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Full text of "Switzerland, and the Adjacent Portions of Italy, Savoy, and the Tyrol ..."

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I 



SWITZERLAND. 



MONEY TABLE. 

(Oomp. p. xvii.) 
Approximate Equivalents. 



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SWITZERLAND, 



AND THB ADJAOBNT FOSTIONB OF 



ITALY, SAVOY, AND THE TYROL. 



HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS 



BY 



K. BAEDEKEE. 



^^ -N./"'., 



With 36 Haps, 10 Plans, and 11 Panobamas. 



TWELFTH EDITION. 



LEIPSIC: KARL BAEDEKER. 

1887. 



All Ri^g^s. Reserved. 



*Oo, little book, God send thee good passage, 
And si)eciaUy let this be thy prayere 
Unto them all that thee will read or hear, 
Where thoa art wrong, after their help to call, 
Thee to correct in any part or all/ 

Ghaucbr. 



1 



1 1 K . » 



Add to Ifib*'. 

GIFT 



PREFACE. \^^7 

ARCH. 

m, UBMV 

llie object of the Handbook for Switzerland is to 

supply the trayeller with all needful information, to point 
oat the most interesting places and the best way of reach- 
ing them , to render him comparatively independent of 
the services of guides and others, and thus to enable him 
thoroughly to enjoy his tour in this magnificent country. 

With improved facilities for travel, the number of visi- 
tors to Switzerland has greatly increased of late years, 
and mountaineering ambition has been proportionally 
stimulated.. Summits once deemed well-nigh inaccessible 
are now scaled annually by travellers from all parts of the 
world. The achievements of the modern Alpine clubs have 
dimmed the memory of De Saussure, Auldjo, and the other 
pioneers of these icy regions, and even ladies now fre- 
quently vie with the stronger sex in their deeds of daring. 

The Handbook is based on the Editor's personal ac- 
qaaintance with the places described , most of which he 
has carefully and repeatedly explored. This edition, 
which corresponds with the twentieth German edition, has 
been thoroughly revised, and famished with the latest in- 
formation obtainable. Its contents are divided into Seven 
Sections (I. N. Switzerland; H. Lake of Lucerne and 
Environs, and St. Gotthard ; HI. Bernese Oberland ; IV. 
W. Switzerland, Lake of Geneva, ^ower Rhone Valley; 

V. Savoy, the Valais, and the adjacent Italian Alps; 

VI. S.E. Switzerland, Grisons; VH. Lakes of N. Italy), 
each of which may be separately removed from the book 
by the mountaineer or pedestrian who desires to minimise 
the bulk of his luggage. To each section is prefixed a 
list of the routes it contains, so that each forms an ap- 
proximately complete volume apart from the general table 
of contents or the general index. 

The Editor will highly appreciate any corrections or 
suggestions with which- traveUers may favour him. The in- 




Yi PREFACE. 

formation already received from numerous correspondents, 
which he gratefdlly acknowledges, has in many instances 
proved most serviceable. 

The Maps and Plaks, on which special care has been 
bestowed, are based on the Topographical Adas of Switzer- 
land and on Dufours Map (p. xxiii) , and revised with the 
aid of other recent authorities. To the present edition are 
added a new map of the Mont Blanc district , and new 
panoramas of the Pilatus and the Niesen. 

Time Tables. The best Swiss publications are the 
^Kurshucher (time-tables) of Krusi of B&le and BurJdi of 
Ztlrich (50 c. each), sold at most of the railway-stations. 

Heights are given in English feet (1 Engl. ft. == 
0.3048 m^tre; 1 mfetre =3.281 Engl, ft., or about 3 ft. 
3Y3 in.). — Distances on high-roads and railways are 
given in English miles ; while those on bridle-paths and 
mountain-routes are expressed by the time which they 
usually take. The iiumber of miles at the beginning of a 
paragraph denotes the distance from the starting-point, 
while the distances from place to place are generally 
stated within brackets ; but on railway-routes the mileage 
is always reckoned from the starting-point. 

Hotels. Besides the first-class hotels, the Handbook 
mentions a number of the more modest inns also. The 
usual charges are stated in accordance with the Editor's 
own experience, or from the bills furnished to him by 
travellers. Hotel-charges, like carriage-fares and fees to 
guides, generally have an upward tendency, but an ap- 
proximate statement of these items will enable the trav- 
eller to form an estimate of his probable expenditure. 

To hotel-keepers, tradesmen, and others the Editor 
begs to intimate that a character for fair dealing towards 
travellers forms the sole passport to his commendation, 
and that advertisements of every kind are strictly exclud- 
ed from his Handbooks. 



CONTENTS. 



Page 

I. Plan of Tour, etc xii 

II. Travelling Expenses. Money xvli 

in. Hotels and Pensions xvii 

rv. Passports. Custom House xix 

V. Walking Tours xix 

VI. Maps xxi 

Vn. Guides xxii 

VHI. Carriages and Horses xxili 

IX. Diligences, Post Office, Telegraph xxiii 

X. Railways xxv 

XI. History. Statistics xxvi 

^^1^ I. Hortliem Switzerland. 

1. Bale 2 

2. From B^le to Bienne and Bern through the Mfinsterthal 8 

3. From Bale to Bienne by Olten and Soleure 11 

4. From Bale to Bern by Herzogenbuchsee 15 

5. From B&le to Zurich 16 

6. From Bale to Lucerne 19 

7. From Olten to Waldshut by Aarau and Brugg 20 

8. From Bftle to Schaifhausen and Constance 21 

9. The Falls of the Rhine 24 

10. From Friedrichshafen to Constance. Lake of Constance . 26 

11. From Rorschach to Constance and Winterthur (Zurich) . 29 

12. From Schaffhausen to ZUrich 30 

13. Zurich and the XJetliberg 31 

14. From Zurich to Coire. Lakes of Zurich and Walenstedt 37 

15. From Zurich to Romanshorn and Friedrichshafen ... 44 

16. From Zurich to St. Gallon, Rorschach, and Lindau ... 46 

17. The Canton of Appenzell 50 

18. From "Wyl through the Toggenburg to Buchs in the Valley 

of the Rhine 56 

19. From Z&rich to Glarus and Linththal 58 

20. From Stachelberg to Altdorf. Klausen 62 

21. From Schwyz to Glarus oyer the Pragel 63 

22. From Glarus to Coire through the Semfthal 65 



vlii CONTENTS. 

Route Page 
n. Lake of Lnceme and EnvironB. The St. Ootthard. 

23. From Zurich to Zug and Lucerne . . .' 68 

24. Lucerne 70 

25. Lake of Lucerne 74 

26. The Rigi 81 

27: PilatUB 88 

28. From Zug and Lucerne to Arth 90 

29. From Wadenswyl to Einsiedeln, Schwyz, and Brunnen . 92 

30. From Lucerne to Bellinzona. St. Gotthard Railway . . 96 

31. From Goschenen to Airolo over the St. Gotthard . . . 104 

32. The Maderaner Thai 108 

33. From Goschenen to the Rhone Glacier. The Furka . . 110 

34. FromLucerne to Altorfby StansandEngelberg. Surenen 112 

35. From Lucerne over the Briinlg to Brienz (and Meiringen) 116 

36. From Meiringen to Engelberg. Joch Pass 119 

37. From Meiringen to Wasen. Susten Pass 121 

38. From Lucerne to Bern. Entlehuch. Emmenthal .... 123 

39. From Lucerne to Lenzburg (and Aarau) by Hochdorf. 
Seethal Railway 125 

ni. The Bernese Oberland. 

40. Bern 129 

41. From Bern to Thun 135 

42. The Niesen 137 

43. From Thun to Interlaken. Lake of Thun 138 

44. Interlaken and its Environs 141 

45. From Interlaken to Lauterbrunnen. Staubbach .... 147 
'46. Upper Valley of Lauterbrunnen. Miirren. Schmadribach 148 

47. From Interlaken to Grindelwald. Wengernalp 153 

48. TheFaulhorn 158 

49. From Grindelwald to Meiringen. Baths of Rosenlaui. 
Falls of the Reichenbach 160 

50. From Meiringen to Interlaken. Lake of Brienz .... 163 

51. TheGiessbach 165 

52. From Meiringen to the Rhone Glacier. Grimsel .... 166 

53. From (Thun) Spiez to Leuk over the Gemmi 170 

54. From Gampel to Kandersteg. Lotschen Pass 176 

55. From Thun to Sion over the Rawyl 179 

56. From Thun to Saanen through the Simmenthal .... 180 

lY. Western Switzerland. Lake of Oeneva. Lower Bhone Valley. 

57. From Bern to Neuchatel 184 

58. From Neuchfltel to Ghauxdefonds and Locle 187 

59. From Neuchatel to Pontarlier by the Val de Travers . . 188 

60. From Neuchatel to Lausanne 190 

61. From Bern to Lausanne (Vevey) 192 



CONTENTS. Ix 

Route Pi^e 

62. From Lausanne to Payeme and Lyss 196 

63. From Lausanne to Pontailiei by YalloTbe 197 

64. Geneya and Environs 198 

65. From Geneva to Martigny by Lausanne and VlUeneuve. 
Lake of Geneva (Northern Bank) !i08 

66. From Saanen to Aigle over the Col de Pillon 224 

67. From BuUe to Chateau d'Oex and Aigle * 226 

68. From Bex to Sion. Col de CheviUe 229 

69. From Geneva to St. Maurice by Bouveret. Lake of Geneva 
(Southern Bank) 231 

Y. Savoy, the Valais, and the adjaeent Italian Alf i. 

70. From Geneva to Chamb^ry by Culoz and Aix-le8>Bains, 
returning by Annecy 238 

71. From Geneva to Chamonix 244 

72. Chamonix and Environs 247 

73. From Chamonix to Mart^y over the Tete-Noire , or to 
Yemayaz by Triquent and Salvan 255 

74. From Martigny to Chamonix. Col de Balme 258 

75. From Chamonix to Courmayeur over the Col duBonhomme 

and the Col de la Seigne. Tour du Mont Blanc .... 260 

76. From Courmayeur to Aosta and Ivrea. The Graian Alps 265 

77. From Martigny to Aosta over the Great St. Bernard . . . 275 

78. From Martigny to Aosta over the Col de Fenetre. Val de 
Bagnes 280 

79. From Martigny to Intra on the Lago Maggiore over the 
Simplon " 282 

80. From the Rhone Glacier to Brieg. Egglshorn 291 

81. From Ulrichen to Domo d'Ossola. Gries Pass. Fall of the 
Tosa. Val Formazza 295 

82. The S. VaUeys of the Valais between Sion and Turtman 
(Val d'H^rens, Val d'Anniviers, and Turtman VaUey) . . 297 

83. From Visp to Zermatt, and over the Th^odule Pass to 
Chttillon 307 

84. Zermatt and Environs 311 

85. From Vogogna to Macugnaga, and over the Monte Moxo 

to Saas and Visp 316 

86. From Macugnaga round Monte Rosa to Zermatt .... 322 

VI. 6.E. Switserland. The Chrisons. 

87. From Rorschach to Coire 327 

88. Ragatz and Pfafers . 329 

89. Coire 333 

do. From Landquart to Schuls over theFluela Pass. Pratigau 336 

91. From Davos to Coire by Lenz(Landwasser Route). . . . 340 

92. From Coire to Davos through the Schanflggthal. Arosa . 343 



X CONTENTS. 

Route Page 

93. From Golre to Goschenen. Oberalp 346 

94. From Disentis to Biasoa. Lokmanier 354 

95. From Goire to Splugen. Via Mala 355 

96. From Splfigen to the Lake of Gomo 360 

97. From Splugen to Bellinzona. Bernardino 362 

98. From Golre to Samaden over the Albnla Pass .... 365 

99. From Goire to Samaden over the Julier 367 

100. From Ghiavenna to Samaden. Yal Bregaglia 371 

101. The Upper Engadine from the Haloja to Samaden . . . 374 

102. Pontresina and Enyirons 381 

103. From Samaden to Nauders. Lower Engadine .... 387 

104. From Samaden over the Bernina to Tirano and through 

the ValtelUna to Colico 394 

105. From Tirano to Nauders over the Stelvio 393 

106. From Nauders to Bregenz over the Arlberg 403 

▼n. The ItaliuL Lakes. 

107. From Bellinzona to Lugano and Gomo (Milan) .... 407 

108. From Bellinzona to Locarno. Yal Maggia 411 

109. Lago Maggiore. The Borromean Islands 414 

110. From Stresa to Orta and Varallo 421 

111. From Luino on Lago Maggiore to Menaggio on the Lake 

of Gomo. Lake of Lugano 425 

112. The Lake of Gomo 427 

113. From Gomo to Milan 434 

Index 439 



List of Maps. 

(Comp. Index Map ctftw ih» General Index.) 

1. DiSTBICT BBTWSSN ScHAVFHAUSXN ASB COMBTANCB : RR. 8, 9, 11, 12, 

15, 16 ; between pp. 22, 28. 

2. Lakk of Constance : RR. 10, 11, 15, 16, 17, 105 ■, between pp. 26, 27. 

3. Envibgns of Schaffhausbn : RR. 8, 9. 12 ^ p. 26. 

4. Lakbs of Zdbigb and Zdg : RR. 18, 14, 15, !23, 29; between pp. 36, 87. 

5. Canton of Appknzell : RR. 14, 16, 17. 18, 87, 105 : between pp. 50, 51. 

6. Canton of Glabds: RR. 14, 19-22; between pp. 58, 59. 

7. ToDi Dibtbict: RR. 19, 20, 32, 92: between pp. 60, 61. 

8. Lakb of Ldcbbhb : RR. 6, 28-31, 84, 85 ; between pp. 74, 75. 

9. Rioi: RR. 84, 35, 37; between pp. 80, 81. 

10. Envibgns of thb St. Gotthabd: RR. 30^33, 86, 87, 52, 79, 92; be- 
tween pp. 96, 97. 

11. Lggp-Tunnxls of thb St. Gotthabd Railway : R. 80; between 
p. 97. 

12. Tbift Dibtbict: RR. 81, 33, 37, 52, 80; between pp. 104, 105. 

13. Envibgns of Enoblbbbq: RR. 80, 34-37; between pp. 114. 115. 

14. Bebnbbb Obbbland: RR. 41-50, 53, 56; between pp. 140, 141. 

15. Envibgns gf Intxblakbn: R. 44; p. 141. 

16. Envibgns of Gbindelwald: RR. 44-50, 52; between pp. 155, 165. 

17. Envibons of Kandbbstbo: RR. 46, 53-65; between pp. 172, 178. 



LIST OF MAPS. xl 

18. Lakb op Gbnkva: BR. 61, 64-67, 09; between pp. 206, 209. 

19. LowKS Vallst of the Rhone, from the Lake or Genera to the Lotschen- 
Thai: RR. 63^, 66-69, 79, 82; between pp. 224, 226. 

20. HoKT Blano Dibtbict: RR. 71-76; between pp. 248, 249. 

21. Envibonb ov Ghakonix, Sixt, ahd Coubmatbub : BB. 69, 71-76 ; be- 
tween pp. 260, 261. 

22. EmrntoNS of thb Gbbat St. Bbbhabd, from Martigny to Aosta : RR. 76- 
79, 83; between pp. 278, 277. 

23. Thb Uppbb Valais: RR. 79-81, 88; between pp. 288, 289. 

24. Albtsch Distbiot: RR. 80, 47, 62; between pp. 2SQ, 293. 

26. Alps of Canton Valaib (from Evolena to Vogogna): RR. 79, 83-86; 
between pp. 298, 299. 

26. Envibonb of Zebmatt: RR. 82-86; between pp. 310, 311. 

27. Envibonb of Raoatz, the Pbatioau and Montavon: RR. 87, 88, 90, 
106; between pp. 332, 338. 

28. Vobdeb-Rheinthal : RR. 93-96, 99 ; between pp. 346, 347. 

29. Distbiot fbom the Lukmanibb to the Maloja : RR. 30, 94, 96, 97, 99, 
100; between pp. 360, 361. 

30. The Uppeb Enoaoine and Bebnina : RR. 101, 102, 104 ; between po. 374, 376. 

31. Envibonb of Pontbbbina: RR. 101. 102, 104; between pp. SoO. 381. 

32. The Loweb Enoadine : RR. 89-93, 96, 99, 103, 106 ; between pp. 388, 389. 

33. Laoo Haooiobb: RR. 78, 109-111; between pp. 414. 416. 

34. Lakes of Como and Lugano : RR. 30, 97, 107, ill, li2 ; between pp. 426, 
427. 

36. Gbnbbal Kap of Switzbxland ) „«^, ., ^ j^a^^ 
3C. Kex Map of Switzebland *^*^' *^^ ^'^^^• 



Panoramas and Views. 

1. From the Rioi-Kulh, between pp. 84, 86. 

2. From the Filatub, between pp. 88, 89. 

3. From Bbbn, p. 132. 

4. From the Kiesen, p. 140. 

6. From the Heihwehflch, p. 143. 

6. From HGbben, p. 149. 

7. From the Faclhobn, between pp. 168, 169. 

8. From the FLftoifeBE, between pp. 250. 261. 

9. From the Eqqishobn, between pp. 292, 293. 

10. From the Gobneb Gbat, between pp. 912, 313. 

11. From the Piz Languabd, between pp. 384, 386. 



Flans of Towns. 

ALB, p. 2; Constance, p. 27; ZGbich, p. 30; Luoebne, p. 70; Been, p. 128; 
Geneva, p. 198; Lausanne, p. 2l2; Baoatb, p. 332; Coibb, p. w3; 

Milan, p. 434. 



Abbreviations. 



B. =: Room. 

B. = Breakfast. 

D. = Dinner. 

L. = Light. 

A. = Attendance. 

M. = English mile. 

ft.O = Engl. foot. 

IT. s Korth, northern. 

8. = South, sotfthem. 



E. = 
W. = 
r. = 
1. = 
hr. = 
min. = 
carr. = 
S.A.C. 
I.A.C. 



'SJB. Everything specially worthy of note is 
With regard to distances, see Preface. 



= East, eastern. 

= West, western. 

= Bight. 

= Left. 

= Hour. 

= Minute. 

= Carriage. 

= Swiss Alpine Club. 
= Italian Alpine Club. 

indicated by an asterisk. 



I. Plan of Tonr. 

Season of the Year. Disiribation of Time. 

The tiavellei will save both time and money by planning his tour 
carefully before leaving home. The Handbook will help him to 
seleet the most interesting rontes and the pleasantest resting- 
places, and point out how each day may he disposed of to the best 
advantage, provided the weather be favourable. 

Season. The great majority of tourists visit Switzerland hetween 
the middle of July and the end of September ; but to those who 
wish to see the scenery, the vegetation, and particolarly the Alpine 
flowers in perfection June Is recommended as the most charming 
month in the year. For expeditions among the higher Alps the 
month of August is the best time. Even in summer snow oocasion- 
ally falls among the higher regions , rendering the mountain-paths 
impassable ; but in ordinary seasons the snow disappears from the 
Rlgi, the routes through the Bernese Oberland, and most of the 
higher Alpine carriage-routes at the heginning of June. On the 
other hand snow sometimes lies throughout the whole season on 
the Furka, the Grimsel, the Gemmi, etc. 

DiBtribution of Time. One Month, as the annexed plan shows, 
suffices for a glimpse at the most interesting parts of Switzerland. 
B^e, where the scenery is least interesting, is a good starting- 
point, but the traveller may ftnd it more convenient to begin with 
Geneva or Neuchatel. 

Days 

By railway {rom Bdle to Neuhatuen; visit the Falls of tht Rhine t by 

railway from Dachsen to Zurich (BB. 1, 8, 9, 12) 1 

Zurich and the Uetliberg (£.13) 1 

From Zurich by railway to Zug; by steamboat to Arih; by railway 

to the Rigi'Kulm (RR. 23, 28, 26) 1 

From the Rigi by railway to VitxfMU (or on foot to W&ggis); by 

steamboat to Lucerne, and one day at Lucerne (RR. 26, 25, 24) 1 
By steamer on the Lake of Lucerne to Brunnen; visit the BUtlij 

Axenstein, etc. (R. 26) 1 

By steamer from Brunnen to FlUelen; by the St. (jk)tthard Railway 

to OOschenen; by omnibus or on foot to Andermatt (RR.25, 30,31) . 1 
By diligence over the Furka to the Rhone Olader (R. 33) ; walk over 

the Orinuel to the Orinuel Bodice (R. 52) 

Walk down the Haslithal (Handegg Fall) to Meiringen (RR. 52, 49) 1 
Walk from Meiringen (Falls of the Reichenbach) through the Ber- 
nese Oberlandj by the Scheidegg^ to [the Faulhom (RR. 49, 48) . . 1 
Descend the Faulhom to] Orindelwald (Grindelwald Glaciers) (RR. 48, 

47) 1 

Walk from Grindelwald over the Wengemalp to Lauterbrunnen 

(Staubbach) (RR. 47, 45) 1 

Walk or ride to MUrren and the Schmadri Fall and back; drive to 

Interlaken (RR. 46, 45) (1) 



I. PI.AN. OF EXGX7BSI0N. xiil 

Days 
Morning at luterMeen; in tbe aHemoon by sieaiBar to the Oieubaeh 

and back (BLR. U, 61) 1 

By railway to DSrligm; by steamer to /Spte^; [walk to Wumnui 

walk or. ride to tbe top of the IfieMen (BB. 43, 42) (1) 

Descend from the Kiesen to FruHffen]^ drive or walk to Kandertteg 

(B. 53) - 1 

Walk from Kandersteg over the GtmnU to Bad Leuk (B. 63) . . . 1 
Drive to Leuk station (B. 63); by railway to Visp (B. 79); walk to 

St. Nicolau* (B. 83) *, drive to Zermatt (B. 83) 1 

Walk to the Riffel Inn^ ascend the Qomergrat^ and retom to Zermatt 

(B. 84) 1 

Excursions from Zermatt {Oomer-Olader^ Sehioartse*. Hdmli, ete.) 

(B. 84) 1 

Walk back to VUip (B. 83) i by railway to Mariignf (B. 79) . . . 1 
To Chamonix over the Col de Bdlme or the TSte-ITaire (BB. 74, 73) 1 

Chamanix (B. 72) 1 

To Vtmafos by TH^^nt and Saltan (B. 73); by railway to Jfon- 

tntue (B. 66) 1 

BxenrsiOBS from Kontreux and Vevey (B. 66); by steamboat to 

Oeneva (B. 66) 1 

Geneva and Environs (BB. 64) 1 

By railway to Loueanne; several hours at Lausanne; by railway in 

the afternoon to Freiburg (BB. 66, 61) 1 

By railway to Bern (B. 61); at Bern (B. 40) 1 

By railway to BdU (B. 4); at Bdle (B. 1) 1 

A few Additional days may be pleMantly spent in EMtem 
Switierland (Appenzell, Bad Pfafers, Via Mala, Upper Engadine), 
whence the Italiaxi LakM aie easily visited. Borsehaeh (p. 48) and 
Zurich (comp. R. 14) are good starting-points. 

BaUway from Borschach to ffeiden^w9lk over the Kaien to Trogen, 
and over the Oabris to Gats (B. 17) 1 

Walk from Gais to Weistbad, the WUdiirchlL and the JEbenalp; re- 
turn to Weissbad, thence to Appenzell (B. 17) 1 

Walk from Appenzell to (?at<, and over the Sioee to AiUiddten in 
the Bhine valley (B. 87) ; train to Ragats (B. 87) 1 

Pfdfere and Coire (BB. ^,89) 1 

Diligence to Thutis ; walk through the Via Mala as far as the third 
bridge, and return to Thusis (B. 96) ; walk by the Schynttratse to 
Tie/enkasten (B. 96) 

Diligence over the Juher to SUvaplana (B. 99) and 8t. MoriU; walk 
to Pontresina (BB. 101, 102) 1 

Ascend the Pit Languard (B. 102) 1 

Diligence over the Bemina to Tirano^ Messagerie to Sondrio (B. 104); 

railway to Colico (B. 104); steamer to Como (B. 112) 1V« 

[Or diligence over the Maloja to Chiaftenna. railway -to Colieo.\ 

Betnm by steamer to Bellagio (Villa MeM, Serbelloni, and CaWoJto); 
then by Menaggio and Porlezza to Lugano (B. Ill) 1 

Steamboat to Ponte Tresa, railway to l^ino ^. 111); steamer to the 
Borromean leUmdi and to Pallanza or Streta (B. 109) 1 

Steamboat to Lavenoj and back by the St. Ootthard Bailway to 
Lucerne 1 

Or by diligence over the Simplon to Brieg (B, 79) 1 



So comprehensive a tour tm the above Is of course rarely under- 
taken; bnt it will enal>le the traveller to plan an excursion of suit- 
able length, such as one of the following : — 



xlY I. PLAN OP EXCURSION. 

I. EiOHT Dat8 fbom BIlb. 
(Bigij BitiuM OberUmd^ Rhone tfloeter, St. QoUkard Route.) 

Ist. From Bdle (or Constance or Romanehom) to Z&rieh. Uetliberg. 
!hid. To Zug^ Arlhy the Rigi^ and Lucerne. 

3rd. Over the BrUnig to Briene, the Oiestibach^ and Jnterlaken (or 
by railway to 2%«n, and thence to Interledten). 

4th. To £a«/er&f*unn«n, and oyer the Wengemalp to CTrtiidelvald. 
5th. Over the Oreat Scheidegg to Mciringen. 

6th. Through the Saslithal (Handegg Fall) to the 0rtoM«l ffoepiee. 
7th. By the (?fi»wel, the Rhone OladeTf and the Furia to Andertnatt 

or OffMchenen. 
8th. To FlUelen, Lucerne, and ^d<«. 

II. TWSLYB OS FOUBTEBN DaTB FBOM BIlB. 

C.S^, ^em<«« Oherland, Zermatty Oemmi.) 

l8t-6th. As in Tour I. 

7th. Oyer the Grinuel to the Rhone 0laeier. Drive to Fieech; walk 
or ride to the Mdtel Eggishom; walk to summit the same evening or 
next mominjg. (Two additional days: — Walk by the Riederalp to the 
Belalp. — Ascend the Bparrenhom, descend to Brieg, and take the train 

to rup.) 

8th. Drive to Brieg, take train to Viep, walk or ride to St. iTitlaffS, 
and walk, ride, or drive to Zermatf. 

9th. Ascend the RUffclherg and Oomergraty etc. 
10th. Return to Vitp. 

11th. To Bad-Leuk and over the Oemmi to Kandersteg. 
12th. To Spies and Thun (train to Bdle^ or to Bern and Oeneva). 

in. Sixteen Days fbok BIlb. 
(Rtgi, Bernese Oberland^ Zermatt, Chamonix^ Lake ef Oeneva.) 

l8t-9th. As in Tour II. 

iOth. To Viepy and by train to Martigng. 

11th. Over the Tete-Iroire or the Col de BaUne to Chamonix. 

12th. Excursions from Chamonix. 

13th. By Salvan to Vemayat; by train to Montreux, 

14th, 15th. To Veveg^ Lausanne^ and Oeneva. 

16th. To Freiburg^ Bern, and Bdle (or from Bern to NeuchAtel^. 

IV. Sevbntebn to Twektt Dats fboh Bale. 
(Bigi^ Bernese Oberland, Southern Valais, Chamonix.) 

lst-8th. As in Tour II. 

9th. Ascend the Oomergrat and return to St. Jfiklaus. 

10th. Gross the Augslbord Pass (ascent of Sehwarshom) to Qruben. 

11th. Gross the Meiden Pass (ascent of Bella Tola) to St. Lue, Vis- 
sogsy or Zinal. 

12th. At Zinal (visit the Alp Arpitetta, etc.). 

13th. Gross the Col de Torrent to Evolena. 

14th, 15th. At Evolena (Arolla and Ferpiele), and return to Sion. 

16th, 17th. Gross the Oemmi to Kandersteg and Thun (or by rail to 
Lausanne^ Freiburg, and Bern). 

(Or: 15th. From Evolena to Sion and Martigny. 16th-20th. To Cha- 
monix, Oeneva, eto., as in Tour III.) 

V. Sevbh Days fbom BAlb. 
(Bernese Oberland, Rigi, St. Ootthard Railway, Italian Lakes.) 

Ist. From Bdle to Bern and Interlaken, 

2nd. To Lauterbruwnen, and over the Wengemalp to Orindeheald. 
3rd. Over the ^Treaf Seheidegg to Meiringen. 
4th. Over the BrUnig to ZuceriM; by F»7in»ati to the Rtgi-Kuhn, 
5th. From ^r^A by the ;8^. (^oMAard Railway to Xaveno (Stresa, Bor- 
mean Islands). 



I. PLAN OF EXGUBSION. xr 

QOk. By Luino and the Late of Lugano to S»llaifio, 

Tth. Steamer to Como; back by the St. Gotthard Bail, to Luceme, etc. 

VI. Eight ob Tbh Dats tbox Balk. 

(Rigi^ Lake qf Lttceme^ 8t. Ootthard^ Italian Lakee^ SplUgen.) 

Ist. From Bdle to Lucerne, and by Arth to the Rigi-Kuhn. 
2nd. Descend to ViUnau; steamer to Brunnen iAgenetein. RUtli, etc.). 
(One or two additional days : visit the Maderaner Thai irom AmHeg^ 
and return by the Staffeln. By train or carriage to Q&eehenen.) 
3rd. By the St. Gotthard Line to Loeamo. 
4th. To the Borromean Islands, Luino, and Lugano. 
5th. By Como, or by Porletza, to Bellagio. 
6th. Walks at Bellagio*, steamer to CoUeo; drive to Chiavenna. 
7th. Cross the SplUgen to Coire. 
8th. To Zurich and NeuchdUl (or to the Falls of the Rhine and Bdle). 

VII. TWXLVB TO FOUBTBBH DaTS FKOM BIlb. 

(Same as Tonr VI., with the addition of the Upper Engadine.) 

Istrfith. As in Tonr VI. 

6th. To Chiavenna and through the Val Bregaglia to Casaccia. 

7th. Gross the Maloja to 8t. Moritx and Pontresina. 

8th, 9th. At Pontresina (Piz Languard, etc.). 

10th. Gross the Albula to Tiefenkasten. 

11th. Through the Bchyn Pass to ThuHs (Via Mala) and Coire, 

12th. To ifa^ate (PfUfers) and ZilrtcA. 

Vm. SiXTEBN TO ElOHTEKM DaTS FSOH BaLX. 

(8ame as Tour VII., with the addition of the ValtelHna and Lower Engadine.} 

Ist^th. As in Tour VII. 

9th. Cross the Bemina to Tirano, 

10th. Through the ValtelHna to Bormio. 

11th. Cross the Wormser Joeh (Pis Umibrail) to St. Maria in the 
UHnsterthal (or cross the Stelvio to Trafoi and Spondinig). 

12th. Over the 0/en PaM to Zemets (or drive by Nauders and Martins- 
hnuik to j9eA«I«). 

13th. Cross the FluelchPctss to Z)avo«. 

Uth. Landwasser Route to Tiifenkaeten. 

15th, 16th. As 11th and 12th of Tour vn. 

IX. Onb Month fboh Gsnbva. 

(Chamonix, Courmayeur, Zermatt, Macugnaga, Simplon, Upper Rhone 
Valley, Tosa Fall, St. Ooithard, Lake of Lucerne, Rigi, Bernese Oherland.) 

1st. From Geneva by steamer to Chillon, and by train to Aigle. 

2nd. Drive to Champiry. 

3rd. Cross the Col de Coux and Col de OoUse to Samoins and Bixi» 

4th. Gross the Col d'Anteme to Chamonix. 

5th, 6th. At Chamonix; excursions. 

7th. Cross the Col de Vota to ContanUnes. 

8th. Cross the Col de Bonhomme and the Col des Fours to Motteis. 

9th. Cross the Col de la Beigne to Courmayeur and Aosta. 
10th. Bail to ChAHllon and walk or ride to Val Toumanche. 
Uth. Cross the Thiodule Pass to Zermatt. 
12th, 18th. At Zermatt; excursions. 
Uth. To Sacu and Mattmark. 
15th. To Macugnaga by the Monte Moro. 

16th. Walk or ride to Vogogna (and thence, if time permit, devote 
a couple of days or more to the Itlian Lakes). 
l7th. Cross the Simplon to Brieg. 
18th. Drive to Ftesch; ascend Eggishom. 



xvl I. PLAN OF EXCURSION. 

19th. Drive to Oberffmtelen (perhaps Tisit the Rhone Olader thence) 

and croM the ari«$ Pats to the Fall of the Tosa. 

20th. Croas the S. Oitteomo P<u$ to Airole. 

2l8t. By train to FlOeUn; steamboat to VUtnau. / .>•« 

22nd. Riffi. 

23rd. To Lucerne. 

24th. Cross the BrBnig to Meiringen. 

26th. To Rotenlavi and OrmdelteaJd. 

26fh. Gross the Wengemalp to Lauterbrunnen ; drive to Interlaken. 

27th. Visit Giesebaeh; steamboat from Interlaken to Thun. 

28th. To Bern; thence to Bdle or back to Geneva. 

All the aboye tonrs are adapted for moderate walkers, and 
may of course be yaried at pleasure. 

Lastly, to travellers who are disinclined for a prolonged tour, 
the following notes may be acceptable : — 

Famoaa P«liKta of Yiew. 
/I. In the Ju* (with the Alps in the distance, the lovrer Swiss 
hills in the foreground, and, from the westernmost points, the lakes 
of Bienne, Neuchatel, and Geneva) : B6UI 8chu>eixerhof (p. 2A) by the Falls 
of the Rhine; the Weissenstein (p. 14) near Soleure; the Frohburg {^. 12) 
near Olten ; the Chaumont (p. 186) and the Tite de Rang (p. 187), in Canton 
Neuchatel ; the Signal de Chexhres (p. 195), the SigncU de Bougy (p. 211), the 
D6le (p. 211), the Mont Tendre (p. 198) and the Dent de Vaulion (p. 198) in 
the Canton de Vaud. 

2. Nearer the Alps, or among the Lower Alps: 

(a). On the N. siae of the Alps: the Kaien (p. 51), ffohe Kasten 
(p. 58), and Sentis (p. 54) in Canton Appenzell \ the Uetliberg (p. 36) and 
BaehUl (p. 41) near Zurich ; the Speer (p. 42) near Wesen-, the Alvier (p. 44) 
near Sargans; the i2iV« (P- 81) , Pilatui (p. 88), Mythen (p. 97), Hieder- 
bauen (p. 77), and the Frohnalpetoek (p. 78) near the Lake of Lucerne ; the 
Ifapf (p. 128) in the Entlebuch; the Ourten (p. 184) OAar Bern; the Jfiesen 
(p. 137) near the Lake of Thun } the MoUson (p. 227) and Jaman (p. 228) 
in Canton Freiburg i the StUive (P* 206) and the Voiron* ip. 208) in Savoy, 
near Geneva : the Chamossaire (p. 221) near Villars. 

C>). On the S. side of the Alps : Monte Oeneroso (p. 411), Jlonte S. Sal- 
vaioi e (p. ^09) and Monte Brh (p. 408) near the Lake of Lugano \ Monte 
Motlerone (p. 421) between the lakes of Maggiore and Orfca ; the Becea di 
Mona (p. 2^ near Aosta; the Cramont (p. 265) near Pr^ St. Didier. 

8. Among the Hijrh Alps: Muot Marmori (p. 367), Muottas Mvraigl 
(p. 380), Schafberg (p. 383), Pi* Languard (p. 384), Pit Ot (p. 380), Schwart- 
hom (p. 339), Stdtterhom (p. 368), Pi* Mundaun (p. 347) and Pi* Muraun 
(p. 36Q) in the Grisons; the Scheinige Platte (p. 145), Faulhom (p. 1B8), 
Wenoemalp (p. 153), MSnnliehen (p. 155), Brienzer Roihhom (p. 164), MUrren 
(v. 149), and the Schilthom (p. 150) in the Bernese Oberland ; the A««<' 
Centrale (p. 107) on the St. Gotthard •, the Furkahom (p. 112), Kleine Biedel- 
hom (p. 168), BggUhom (p. 298), Sparrhom (p. 286), the Torrenthom (p. 175), 
Pierre it voir (p. 224), Gomergrat (p. 812), Schwar*hom (p. 307), BeUa Tola 
(p. 805) and Pic drAr*inol (p. 299) in the Valais; the Col de Balme (p. 259), 
FUgire (p. 251), and Brivent (p. 251) near Chamonix \ Pie Umbrail (p. 400) 
on the Sielvio route. 

Principal Alpine Passes. 

Pre-eminent in point of scenery is the St. Gotthard (R. 30), rendered 
easily accessible by the railway across it^ but it need hardly be said that 
its iStractions are not seen *» advantage from the windows of a train. 
Next to it ranks the SplUgen (KJl. tfO, »b), particularly on the N. side, 
where it coincides with the Bernardino RouteiR. 97). The finest approach 
to the Engadine is by the Scht^-Straue (P- 356) and the Albula Pa** (E. 98) i 
and the beautiful Maloja Pa** (BR. 100, 101) leads thence to the Lske 
of Como. From the Engadine the interesting Bemina Paes (R. 104) croase* 
to the somewhat monotonous Valtellma, the journey' through which lias, 



n. TRATBLLING EXPENSES. MONEY. xvii 

however, been much facilitated by tbe new railway from Sondrio to Collco. 
Very grand, though long and circuitous, is the route descending the Knga- 
dine and crossing the Resehen-Seheideek (p. 402) and the Stelvio (R. 105) to 
11^ ' Valtellina. In Western Switeerland the aimplon (B. 79) is justly a 
favourite pass, though inferior to several of the above , while the Damons 
Great St. Bernard (R. 77), apart from its hospice, is undoubtedly the least 
interesting of the series. Many of the grandest, and 'also easiest passes 
are comprised in the 9th of the above Tours. 

Headquarters for Xountaiaeering. 
The most important are Orindelwald (p. 151), Eermatt (p. 311), Cha- 
monix Cp> 247), Courmayeur (p. 264), Maeugnaffa (p. 817), and Pontresina 
(p. 380), at all of which ezperienced guides abound. 

■ ' Health Betorts. 

Switzerl^d can boast of few mineral springs, but ^Luftkurorte* 
, ('air -cure places') and summer pensions abound in every part of the 
I country. A few of the most important only need be mentioned here. 

MiNXKAL Baths. Tarasp, in the Lower Engadine (p. 391); 8t. Moritz, 
". in the Upper Engadine (p. 377) \ Ragats (p. 329) \ Staehelberg (p. 60) \ 
Weissenburg (p. 181); Lenk (p. 178); Leuk or Logche (p. 175); the saline 
baths of Bex and Aigle (pp. 221, 220) ; St. Gervaie (p. 246). 

WiVTEB Besokts for invalids : Davos (p. 240) ; Montreux (p. 217). 

SuMMSB Bbsobtb, sec p. xviii. 

n. Travelling Expenses. Honey. 

I Ezpenset. The cost of a torn in Switzerland depends of course 
upon the habits and tastes of the traveller. The pedestrian's daily 
expenditure, exclusive of guides, may be estimated at 12-15«., if 
he frequents the best hotels, or one-third less if he selects the 
more modest inns, and avoids the expensive and tedious tables 
d'h6te. The traveller who prefers driving and riding to walking, 
who always goes to the best hotels, and never makes an ascent 
without a guide, must be prepared to spend at least twice the above 
sum ; while the mountaineer's expenses will often amount to several 
pounds for a single glader-expedltion. 

Money. The Swiss monetary system was assimilated to that of 
France in 1851. In silver there are coins of 5, 2, 1, and i/2 fr. 
(Those of 1859-63, with the sitting figure of Helvetia, which have 
been called In, and Italian and Papal 1 fr. and V2 ^^* pieces should 
be declined). In plated copper 20, 10, and 5 centimes (or 'Rappen'), 
and in copper 2 and 1 c. pieces. One franc s= 100 c. = (in Ger- 
man money) 80 pfennigs = 93/4^. French gold is the most con- 
venient coin, and English sovereigns (25 fr.) and banknotes are re- 
eeived almost everywhere at the full value; but the circular notes 
of iOl., Issued by many of the English banks, are safer for carrying 
large sums. German gold and banknotes also realize their full value 
(20 marks = 24 fr. 50-60 c). 

m. Hotels and Pensions. 

Hotels. Switzerland Is famous for its hotels. The large modern 
establishments at Geneva, Yevey, Zurich, Lucerne, Interlaken, etc., 
are models of organisation ; the smaller hotels are often equally well 

Bakdbkeb, Switzerland. 11th Edition. b 



xnii m. HOTELS AND PENSIONS. 

conducted, and indeed a really bad inn is rarely met with in French 
or German Switzerland. 

The ordinary charges at the first-class hotels are: bed -room 
from 2^2 fr-, table d'hote 4-6 fr. ; breakfast (tea or coffee, bread, 
butter, and honey) lV2^r. in the public room, 2fr. in the traveller's 
apartment; candle Ifr., service Ifr.; supper generally h la carte. 
When attendance is charged in the bill, nothing more need be given 
except to the boots and porter. At the large hotels the best accom- 
modation is generally reserved for families, while the solitary tra- 
veller is consigned to the' inferior rooms at equally high charges. 

At the second-class inns the average charges are : bed-room from 
172^r-> breakfast l-lY4fr., t?ible d'hote 2 Y2-3f^-> service discre- 
tionary, and no charge for 'bougies'. 

Opinions regarding hotels often differ ; but travellers will rarely 
have much cause to complain if they endeavour to comply with the 
customs of the country, restrict their luggage to a moderate quantity, 

and leam enough of the language to make themselves intelligible. 

If a prolonged stay is made at a hotel, the bill should be asked for 
every three or four days, in order that errors, whether accidental or de- 
signed, may more easily oe detected. When an early departure is contem- 
plated, the bill should be obtained over-night. It is not an uncommon 
practice to withhold the bill till the last moment, when the hurry and 
confusion of starting render overcharges less liable to discovery. 

In the height of the season the hotels at the favourite resorts of trav- 
ellers are often crowded. To prevent disappointment rooms should be tele- 
graphed for (p. xxv). 

PensioiLS. Boarding-houses or 'pensions' abound at Lucerne, 
Geneva, Interlaken, and in many other parts of Switzerland. The 
charge for board and lodging varies from 4 to 10 or 15 fr., and at 
some of the most famous health-resorts and watering-places some- 
times amounts to 20 fr. per pay. As the word 'pension' is some- 
times used to signify board only, the traveller should ascertain 
whether rooms are included in the charge or not. In the dull 
season (October to June) many of the hotels also take visitors 'en 

pension', usually charging 1-3^2 ^i^- P^^ week extra for attendance. 

Among the Swiss Summer Beaorts may be mentioned: — 

In KosTHEBN Switzerland: The Weissenstein (4213'; p. 14) near So- 
leure; Langenbruck (2355'; p. 12) and Frenhendorf (llStX; p. 11) near Lies 
tal ; the Frohburg (2772'; p. 12) near Olten ; the Chaumont (3845'; p. 186) 
near Neuchatel; ZiiiHch (1345'; p. 31) and the Uetliberg (2864'; p. 36); 
Wadennoyl (p. 89) and other places on the Lake of Ziirich (13^'); Sehdn/els 
and FeUenegg (3025'; p. 69) near Zug; Wesen (UlC; p. 42) ; Biaehelberg (2178'; 
p. 60); Richigau (3592') in the Klonthal (p. 64); HtrUer-WUggithal (3802*; 
p. 40); the Heinnchgbad (2300', p. 46), near Herisau; Rorschach (1312'; 
p. 48); Walzmhausen (p. 49); Heiden (2645'; p. 51), Gais (3064'; p. 52), and 
Weissbad (2680^; p. 53) in Appenzell; Wildhaus (3622'; p. 57) in the Tog- 
genburg. 

On the Lake of Lucebne (1434') : Ltieeiiie (p. 70) ; Meggen (p. 91) ; ffer- 
tenstein (p. 75); Weggis (p. 73); Beckenried (p. 76); Vitznau (p. 75); Oertau 
(p/76); 5i*Mnnen(p.78); Axenstein (2330') and Axenfels (2156'; p. 78); Seelisberg 
(^772'; p. 77); -Bfl»v«»«<oc* (2854'; p. 117); /8f<oo» (4242'; p. 78); Rigi-KUftterli 
(4262'; p. 81), Kaia)ad (4700*), First (4747'), StcitTel (6210'), and Scheidegg (5407'). 

In Untebwaldbn : Engelberg (3314'; p. 114). In Ubi: The Maderaner 
Thai (4788'; p. 108); Andermatt (3788'; p. 106). 



IV. PASSPORTS. xlx 

In the BBBirsBJi Obbblakd: Btm iXim\ p. 129); Thun (1844'; p. 136); 
Oherho/en (p. 130), Ounten (p. 139), and Spiez (p. 139) on the Lake of Thun 
(1837')-, Interlakm (1863'; p. 140); 8t. Beaienherg (3766'; p. 144); the Oiessbach 
(1857': p. 166); i/iflfren (6348'; p. 149); Qrindelieald (^iJS&\ p. 165); BngMilen- 
alp (0033'; p. 116). 

On the Labs of Geneva, in the Bhone Yallet, etc.: Geneva (1243'; 
p. 199); Onchy (p. 212); La%i$anne (p. 212); Yevey (p. 214); Montreux 
(p. 217); auon (2»4'; p. 218); AigU (1375'; p. 290); Bex (1^; p. 231); 
VUlart (4166'; p. 221); the OrmonU (3704'; p. 226); OUUeau d'Oex (3498'; 
p. 229); BelcUp (7153'; j>. 286); Eggishom (7195'; p. 298); Zfi»-ma« (5315'; 
p. 311), the Bifeldlp (7906'; p. 312) and Riffelherg (8429'; p. 312) ; />« (6900*; 
p. 820); j9(. Z«c (5496'; p. 305) ; Zinal (9S0&; p. 304) ; Evolena (4620*; p. 299) ; 
Ch(wionix (3445*; p. 240). 

In the Geibons : Samaden (5670'; p. 379) ; Pontresina (5915'; p. 880) ; 
Bt. MoHtz (6090*; p. 878); Sils-Maria (^95*; p. 376); 5cA«I« (3970': p. 391); 
Dav&s (6115'; p. 340); Klosters (3991'; p. 337); SeewU (2986'; p. 336); Wald- 
hOuser (3615'; p. 347), near Films; DUentu (3773'; p. 350); Wiesen (4770*; 
p. 842); Churwalden 0976'; p. 367). 

On the SoDTH Sn>E of the Alps : Lugano (982'; p. 406) ; Beltagio (p. 429), 
Caderiobbia, MenaggiOy etr.^ on the Lake of Gomo (699*); PaUanea (p. 418) 
and B*resa (p. 420) , on the Lago Haggiore (646*) ; M<mU Generoso (SdeO*; 
p. 411) and Lanxo d^Intehfi (3117'; p. ^), near the Lake of Lugano. 

IV. Passports. Custom House. 

Passports. In Switzerland passports are unnecessary, but as 
they must be shown in order to obtain delivery of registered letters, 
and are sometimes of service in proving the traveller's identity, 
it is unwise not to be provided with one. The principal passport- 
agents in London are : Lee and Carter, 440 West Strand ; Dorrel 
and Son, 15 Charing Cross; £. Stanford, 6 Charing Cross; W. J. 
Adams, 59 Fleet Street. 

Custom House. Luggage is rarely examined at the Swiss 
custom-house, but the formalities of the douane must be un- 
dergone by persons leaving Switzerland. At the French, Italian, 
and Austrian frontiers the examination is sometimes strict, and to- 
bacco and cigars pay a heavy duty, but at the German frontier the 
visile is usually lenient. As a rule the traveller should restrict his 
belongings as far as possible to wearing apparel and articles for per- 
sonal use. 

Y, Walking Tours. 

In a mountainous country like Switzerland it is to pedestrians 
alone that many of the finest points are accessible, and even where 
driving or riding is practicable, walking is often more enjoyable. 

Disposition of Time. The first golden rule for the walker is to 
start early. If strength permits, and a suitable halting-place Is to 
be met vrith, a walk of one or two hours may be accomplished be- 
fore breakfast. At noon a moderate luncheon is preferable to the 
usual table d*h6te dinner. Rest should be taken during the hottest 
hours (12-3), and the journey then continued till 5 or 6 p.m., 
when a substantial meal (evening table d'h6te at the principal hotels) 
may be partaken of. The traveller's own feelings will best dictate 
the hour for retiring to bed. 

b* 



XX V. . WALKING TOURS. 

Equipment. A superabundance of luggage infallibly increases 
the delays, annoyances , and expenses of travel. To be provided 
with enough and no more, may be considered the second golden 
rule for the traveller. A light ^gibeci^re' or game-bag, which is 
far less Irksome to carry than a knapsack, suffices to contain all that 
is necessary for a week's excursion. A change of flannel shirts and 
worsted stockings , a few pocket-handkerchiefs , a pair of slippers, 
and the 'objets de toilette' may, with a little practice, be carried 
with hardly a perceptible increase of fatigue. A pocket-knife with a 
corkscrew, a leather drinking-cup, a spirit-flask, and a piece of 
green crape or coloured spectacles to protect the eyes from the glare 
of the snow, should not be forgotten. Useful, though less indispens- 
able, are an opera-glass or small telescope, sewing materials, a supply 
of strong cord, sticking plaster, a small compass, a pocket-lantern, 
a thermometer, and an aneroid barometer. The traveller's reserve 
of clothing should be contained in a portmanteau of moderate size, 
which he can easily wield himself when necessary, and which may 
be forwarded from town to town by post. 

The mountaineer should have a well-tried Alpenstock^ consist- 
ing of a pole of seasoned ash, 5-6' long, shod with a steel point, 
and strong enough, when placed horizontally, with the ends sup- 
ported, to bear the whole weight of the body. For the more difficult 
ascents an lee- Axe and Rope are also necessary. The best ropes, light 
and strong, are made of silk or Manilla hemp. In crossing a glacier 
the precaution of using the rope should never be neglected. It 
should be securely tied round the waist of each member of the 
party, leaving a length of about 10' between each one and his 
follower. Ice-axes are made in various forms, and are usually 
fumished with a spike at the end of the handle, so that they can 
in some measure be used like an Alpenstock. 

General Hints. The traveller's ambition often exceeds his 
powers of endurance, and if his strength be once overtaxed he will 
sometimes be incapacitated altogether for several days. At the 
outset, therefore, the walker's performances should be moderate: 
and even when he is in good training , they should rarely exceed 
10 hrs. a day. When a mountain has to be breasted, the pedes- 
trian should avoid 'spurts', and pursue the 'even tenor of his way' 
at a steady and moderate pace (^chi va piano va sano; chi va sano 
va lontand'). As another golden maxim for his guidance, the travel- 
ler should remember that — 'When fatigue begins, enjoyment ceases'. 

Mountaineering among the higher Alps should not be attempted 
before the middle or end of July, nor at any period after a long 
continuance of rain or snow. Glaciers should , if possible, be tra- 
versed before 10 a.m., after which hour the sun softens the crust 
of ice formed during the night over the crevasses. Experienced 
guides are indispensable for such excursions. 

The traveller is cautioned against sleeping in chalets, unless ab- 



VI. MAPS. xxi 

solutely neeeisaiy. Whatever poetry there may be theoretically in 
*a fragrant bed of hay\ the cold night-air piercing abundant aper- 
tnres , the ringing of the cow-bells , the grunting of the pigs^ and 
the undiscarded garments, hardly conduce to refreshing slumber. 
As a rule, therefore, the night preyious to a mountain expedition 
should be spent either an inn or at one of the club-huts which the 
Swiss, German, and Italian Alpine Olubs have recently erected 
for the convenience of travellers. 

Mountaineers should provide themselves with fresh meat, bread, 
and wine or spirits for long expeditions. The chalets UBually afford 
nothing but Alpine fare (milk , cheese, and stale bread). Gladez- 
water should not be drunk except in small quantities, mixed with 
wine or cognac. Cold milk is also safer when qualified with spirits. 
One of the best beverages for quenching the thirst is cold tea. 

Over all the movements of the pedestrian the weather holds 
despotic sway. The barometer and weather-wise natives should be 
consulted when an opportunity offers. The blowing down of the 
wind from the mountains into the valleys in the evening, the melt^ 
ing away of the clouds, the fall of fresh snow on the mountains, 
and the ascent of the cattle to the higher parts of their pasture are 
all signs of fine weather. On the other hand it is a bad aign if the 
distant mountains are dark blue in colour and very distinct In out- 
line, if the wind blows up the mountains , and if the dust rises in 
eddies on the roads. West winds also usually bring rain. 

Health.. For wounds and braises linc ointment is a good remedy. 
Another is a mixture of Vs oz. of white wax, V^ oz. tallow. */4 oz. olive 
oil, and 1 V2 drachms of vinegar of lead, melted together. For inflammation 
of the skin, caused by the glare of the sun on the snow, cold cream or 
glycerine and starch are recommended. Another remedy is an ointment 
of equal parts of almond oil, white wax, and spermaceti. ^ 

For diarrhoea 16 drops of tincture of opium and aromatic tincture 
mixed in equal quantities may be taken every two hours until relief is 
afforded. The homceopatbic tincture of camphor is also useful. 

VI. Haps. 

1. Maps of Switzbaland in Okb Shbbi: : — 

^ZiegUr's neue Karte der SehwtU (1 : 330,000), with explan- 
ations and index. Price 12 fir. 

ZiegUr'i Hypsometr, Karte (1 : 380,000), 4 sheets, 20 fr. 
Leutkold'8 Karte (1 : 400,000), 10 fr. 
KeUer'8 Karte (1 : 450,000), 6 fr. 
^Liuzinger's neue Karte (1 : 400,000), 8fr. 

2. Maps on a Lasobb Soalb : — 

OeneraOtarU der Sdtweh (i : 250,000), published by the gov- 
ernment topographic office, reduced from Dufour's Map, 4 sheets. 

The Alpine Club Map of Switxerland , published by R. C. Ni- 
ehoU (1 : 250,000), 4 sheets, 42a. 

*Topographi8che Karte der 8ekwei%y from surveys made by order 



xxll Vn. GUIDES. 

of the Federal aathorities (under the superintendence of Oeneral 
Dufour); scale 1:100,000; 25 sheets, each 1 to 21/2 fr. (not 
mounted). Heights are given in m^res. 

An admirable work on a still larger scale is the *Topogra' 
phUehe AUcu det 8chwei%y on the scale of the original drawings 
(flat districts 1 : 25,000, mountains 1 : 50,000), published by the 
Federal Staff Office (each sheet 1 fi:.)* 

For Ghamonlx, Reilly's Map of Mont Blanc, and Mieulet's Massif 
du Montblanc (1 : 40,000). 

For the Engadine, ZUgler'a Karte des Ober- und Unter-Engadin, 
in 6 sheets (1 : 50,000). 

vn. Guides. 

On well-trodden routes like those of the Rigi, Pilatus, Wen- 
gem Alp, Faulhorn, Scheideck, Grimsel, Gemmi, etc., the services 
of a guide are unnecessary ; but the traveller may engage the first 
urchin he meets to carry his pouch or knapsack for a trifling gratuity. 
Guides are, however, indispensable for glacier-expeditions. As a 
class, they will be found to be intelligent and respectable men, 
well versed in. their duties, and acquainted with the people and 
resources of the country. 

The great stations for guides are Interlaken, Lauterbrunnen, 
Grindelwald, Meiringen, Martigny, Ghamonlx, Oourmayeur, Zer- 
matt, and Pontresina, while for the principal passes guides are 
always to be found at the neighbouring villages. The traveller 
should select one of the certificated guides , who have passed an 
examination, and are furnished with legal certificates of character 
and qualifications. The usual pay of a guide is 6-8 fr. for a day of 
8 hrs. ; he is bound to carry 15-18 pounds of baggage, and to hold 
himself at the entire disposition of his employers. If dismissed at 
a distance from home, he is entitled to 6 fr. a day for the return- 
journey ; but he is bound to return by the shortest practicable route. 

Although a guide adds considerably to the traveller's expenses, 
the outlay will seldom be regretted. A good guide points out many 
objects which the best maps fall to indicate ; he furnishes interesting 
information about manners and customs, battle-fields, and historical 
incidents ; and when the traveller reaches his hotel, wearied with the 
fatigues of the day, his guide often renders him valuable service. 
It need hardly be said that a certain amount of good fellowship and 
confidence should subsist between the traveller and the man who 
is perhaps to be his sole companion for several days, and upon 
whose skill and experience his very life not unfrequently depends. 

Divided among a party, the expense of a guide is of course 
greatly diminished ; but where there is much luggage to carry, it is 
often better to hire a horse or mule, the attendant of which will 
=terve as a guide on the ordinary routes. 



IX. DILIGENCES, etc. xxiil 

Adult porters are entitled to 75 cent, or 1 fr. an hour, when 
not engaged by the day, return included. In every case it is advis- 
ahle to make a distinct bargain beforehand. 

Vm. Carriages and Horses. 

Caxriages. The ordinary charge for a carriage with one horse is 
15-20 fr., with two horses 25-30 fr. per day, and the driver ex- 
pects 1 fr. per horse as a gratuity. In the height of summer the 
charges are slightly increased. Like the guides, the Woiturier* 
demands the return-fare to the place where he was engaged, and 
the traveller should therefore endeavour to discharge his carriage 
as near the home of the driver as possible. 

For long journeys it is desirable to have a written agreement, 
which the driver usually concludes by depositing a sum with his 
employer as earnest-money, afterwards to be added to the account. 
The carriage and horses should be inspected before the conclusion 
of the bargain. Private posting, or the system of changing horses, 
is forbidden by law. 

Return-vehicles may sometimes be obtained for 10 to 15 fr. per 
day, but the use of them is in some places prohibited. 

The average day's journey is 30-40 miles, a halt of 2-3 hrs. 
being made about noon ; and for the return-journey about 36 M. 

In mountainous districts 'Bergwagli' or 'chars-k-bancs', for two 
persons, may be hired for 12-15 fr. per day, fees included. 

Horses. A horse or mule costs 10-12 fr. per day, and the atten- 
dant expects a gratuity of 1-2 fr. in addition; but in some places, 
as at Ohamonix, as much is charged for the attendant as for the 
animal. If he cannot return home with his horse on the same day, 
the following day must be paid for. Walking, however, is prefer- 
able. A prolonged ascent on horseback is fatiguing, and the de- 
scent of a steep hill is disagreeable. Even ladies may easily ascend 
some of the finest points of view on foot, but if unequal to the 
task they may either ride or engage *chaises-Ji-porteurs\ 

IX. Diligences, Post Office, Telegraph. 

Biligences. The. Swiss postal system is weU organised. The 
diligences are generally well fitted up, the drivers and guards are 
respectable, and the fares moderate. These vehicles consist of the 
eoup€, or first-class compartment in front , with 2-3 seats, the tn- 
terieur, or second-class compartment at the back, with 4-6 seats, 
which affords little or no view, and the banquette (used in summer 
only) for 2 passengers on the outside. In some cases there is only 
one outside-seat, which is reserved for the conducteufj or guard, 
but which will be ceded by him on payment of the difference be- 
tween the ordinary and the coup^ fare. 

On important routes the coup^ is generally engaged several days 



xxiv IX. DILIGENCES, etc. 

befoTehand. This may be done by letter, enclosing the fare, and 
giving the traveller's name , and the day and hour of departure. 
When the diligence is full, 'Beiwagen^ or supplementary carriages 
are provided. These are often light , open vehicles , preferable 
to the lumbering 'Postwagen'. A seat in one of them may gen- 
erally be procured by arrangement with the conductor. As a rule 
passengers are consigned to the inUrieur or to a supplementary 
carriage in the order in which they are booked. If therefore the 
traveller has failed to secure a coupS or banquette seat by early 
application, he will often avoid the inttfrieur by delaying to take 
his ticket till the diligence is about to start. 

The coupS or banquette fare is on ordinary routes 20 c. per 
kilometre (about 32 c. per Engl. M.), on Alpine passes 30 c. per kilom. 
(about 48 c. per Engl. M.); fare in the intirieur or cabriolet 15 or 
25 c. per kilometre (24 or 40 per Engl. M.). Children of 2-7 years of 
age pay half-fare. Each passenger is allowed 33 lbs. of luggage 
on ordinary routes, but 22 lbs. only on the high Alpine routes. 
Overweight is charged for at the ordinary postal tariff. Small articles 
may be taken into the carriage, but heavy luggage should be booked 
one hour before starting. The average speed of these sedate mail- 
coaches of Switzerland is about 6 M. per hour on level ground, and 
4 M. per hour on mountains-routes. 

Eztri^FoBt. This is the term applied to the Swiss system of 
posting, managed by government, private posting being prohibited. 
The charge for each horse is Va^^* P^^^ kilomMre (80 c. per M.); for 
a carriage with 2-5 seats 20 c. per kilom. (32 c. per M.), for one 
with 6 seats 25 c. per kilom. (40 c. per M.), for one with 7 or 
more seats 30 c. per kilom. (48 c. per M.). Besides these charges, 
which include the driver's fee, an additional payment of 2-4 fr. 
must be made according to the size of the carriage. If the same 
vehicle is required for a journey of several stages, double carriage- 
money is exacted. Extra-post may be ordered at the principal post- 
offlces on the mountain-routes at one hour's notice. The fare must 
be paid in advance. 

Letters of 15 grammes (about Y2 ^^O) prepaid, to any part of 
Switzerland 10 c; if within a radius of 10 kilom Mres, 5 c.; to all 
countries in the postal union 25 c., and 25 c. for each 15 gr. more. 
Registration-fee for Switzerland 10 c, for other countries 25 c. — 
Post-cards for Switzerland 5 c., for other countries 10 c. — Printed 

matter under 15 gr. for Switzerland 2 c, for other countries 5 c. 

Pott Of&ce Orders within Switzerland must not exceed 1000 fr. for 
the larger, and 500 fr. for the smaller towns. The charge for an order not 
exceeding 100 fr. is 20 c., for each additional 100 fr. 10 c. more. Money- 
orders for foreign countries 24 c. for every 100 fr. (with a minimum 
fee of 60 c). 

The Telegraph System of Switzerland is very complete, the 

aggregate length of the wires being at present greater than in any 

her country in proportion to the population. There are now 



X. RAILWAYS. XXV 

upwards of 1000 offices; those in the large towns are open from 
6 or 7 a.m. till 11 or 10 p.m. according to tlie season. The tariff 
for a telegram within Switzerland is 30 c, together with 2^2 c. 
for each word; to Germany 50c., and 12^2 c* for each word; 
to England 40 c. for each word ; to France 7 c. for each word for tele- 
grams to the frontier, or 12^2 c. for each word for greater distances. 
The rates for other foreign telegrams may be ascertained at the 
offices. For telegrams handed in at railway-stations an additional 
charge of 50 c. is made. 

Telegrams may be handed in at any post-office, from which, if 
not itself a telegraph office, they are transmitted without delay to 
the nearest. In such cases the fee for the telegram is paid by af- 
fixing a stamp of the requisite value (1/2 fr. or upwards, according 
to the number of words). 

X. Eailways. 

The Carriages in German Switzerland are constructed on the 
American plan, generally holding 72 passengers, and furnished 
at eacli end with steps of easy access. Through each carriage, and 
indeed through the whole train, runs a passage, on each side of 
which the seats are disposed. This arrangement enables the trav- 
eller to change his seat at pleasure, and to see the scenery to ad- 
vantage, unless the carriage is very full. Tickets are examined and 
collected in the carriages. 

The carriages in French Switzerland are of the ordinary con- 
struction. Passengers' tickets are checked as they leave the waiting- 
room before starting, and given up at the ^Sortie^ on their arrival. 

Luggage must be booked and paid for after the traveller has 
obtained his own ticket, but small portmanteaus and travelling-bags 
may generally be taken into the carriage without objection. Trav- 
ellers with through-tickets from the German to the Swiss railways, 
or vice versa, should see that their luggage is safe on reaching the 
frontier (Bale, Geneva, Neuchlltel, Friedrichshafen, Lindau, Ror- 
chach, Romanshorn, etc.). Where a frontier has to be crossed, 
ordinary luggage should never be sent by goods-train. 

Circular Tickets and return-tickets are issued at reduced rates 
on most of the Swiss lines, and also by the German and French 
railways to Switzerland. Information regarding them will be found 
in the time-tables; but they are apt to hamper the traveller's 
movements and to deprive him of the independence essential to 
enjoyment. 



XI. History. Statisties. 



xxvi 



The limits of this work preclude more than a brief historical sketch of 
the interesting country the traveller is now visiting, whose inhahitanta have 
ever been noted for their spirit of freedom and independence. It is ne- 
cessary for a moment to carry the reader back to the conquest of Helvetia 
by the Roman legions. Under the Roman sway Helvetia enjoyed a flourish- 
ing trade, which covered the land with cities and villages. A trace of 
that period exists in the Romanic dialect, which is still spoken in some 
parts of Switzerland. 

Switzerland is believed to have been first peopled by the RTiaeti, who 
were driven from the plains to the mountains by the HelveHi^ a Celtic 
tribe. The latter were conquered by the Momant, B. C. 68, and the Rhseti 
were subdued in B. G. 15. The Romans made good military roads over 
the Great St. Bernard (p. 2T7) to Bale, and over the Julier (p. 370), 
Septimer (p. 370), and Spliigen (p. 361) to Bregenz (p. 406), and thence to 
Bale. The chief settlements were Aventicum (Avenches, p. 196) in the Can- 
ton of Vaud, Vindonista (Windisch, p. 17) at the confluence of the Aare, 
Reuss, and Limmat, Augusta Ravraeorum (Augst, p. 16) near Bale, and 
Curia Rhaetorum (Coire, p. 333) in the Grisons. E. Switzerland as far as 
Pfyn (ad fine*) in Thurgau, and P/yn (p. 285) in the Upper Valais, belonged 
to the province of Rhsetia, while W. Switzerland formed part of Gaul. 
The name Helvetii had become extinct even before the time of Constantine. 

About A.D. 400 a great irruption of barbarians swept through the 

Seaceful valleys of the Alps, and Huns, Burgundians, Alemannij and 
strogoths in succession settled in different parts of the country. The 
Alemanni occupied the whole of N. Switzerland, where German is now 
spoken ; the Burgundians the W. part, where French is spoken ; and the 
Ostrogoths S. Switzerland, where Italian and Romansch are now spoken. 
These races were gradually subdued by the Franks, who, however, did not 
take possession of the country themselves, but governed it by their officers. 
During this period Christianity was introduced, the monasteries of Disentis 
(p. 350), St. Oallen (p. 47),' Einsiedeln (p. 92), and BeromUnster were 
founded J and dukes and counts were appointed as vicegerents of the 
Franconian kings. 

After the dissolution of the great Franconian empire, the eastern half 
of Switzerland, the boundary of which extended from KgUsau over the 
AJbis to Lucerne and the Grimsel, was united with the duchy of Aleman- 
nta, or Swabia., and the western part with the kingdom of Burgundy (912). 
After the downfall of the latter (1032) the Oerman Emperors took posses- 
sion of the country, and governed it by their vicegerents the dukes of 
Zeehringen (p. 130), who were perpetually at enmity with the Burgundian 
nobles and therefore favoured the inhabitants of the towns, and were 
themselves the founders of several new towns, such as Freiburg, Bern, 
and Burgdorf. 

As the power of the emperors declined, and the nobles, spiritual and 
temporal, became more ambitious of independence, and more eager to fill 
their coffers at the expense of their neighbours, ttie Swiss towns and the 
few country-people who had succeeded in preserving their freedom from 
serfdom were compelled to consult their safety by entering into treaties 
with the feudal lords of the soil. Thus the inhabitants of Zurich placed 
themselves under the protection of the then unimportant (kntnts of Haps- 
burg, with whom the ' Three Cantons ' of Uri, Schwyz, and Unterwalden 
were also allied. In 1231 and 1240 letters of independence were granted 
by Emperor Frederick II. to Uri and Schwyz, and after Count Rudolph of 
Hapsburg had become emperor he confirmed the privileges of the former 
in 1274, while Schwyz and Unterwalden still continued subject to the 
Hapsburg supremacy. 

After the emperor's death in 1291 the Forest Cantons formed their 
first league for mutual safety and the protection of their liberty against 
the growing power of the House of Hapsburg. Rudolph's son Albert in 
particular endeavoured to rear the limited rights he enjoyed in these dis- 
tricts into absolute sovereignty, and to incorporate them with his empire. 



XI. HISTORY. xxvii 

The aoicieikt cantooB therefore embraced the cause of the rival monarch 
Adolph of SiUiOM^ who confirmed their privileges. Victory, however, 
favoured Albert, who again deprived the cantons of their privileges, but 
does not appear to have treated them with much severity. To this period 
belongs the romantic but unfounded tradition of William Tell, i 

After tike assassination of Albert by John of Swabia in 1306, Emperor 
ffenry VII.,, who was also an opponent of the Hapsburgers, conferred a 
charter of independence on the Forest Cantons. The House of Hapsburg 
regarded this as an infringement of their rights, and sent a powerful 
army .against these cantons, which after the death of Henry had declared 
their adherence to Lewis the Bavarian, the opponent of Frederick the 
Handsome. This army was destroyed at the Morgarten (p. 94) in 1315. 
Subsequent attempts to subject the country to the supremacy of the 
House of Hapsburg were frustrated by the victories of the Swiss at 8em- 
pach (p. 19) in 1%6, at N^eh (p. 68) in 1388, and at the Stoss (p. 53) 
in 1405. 

In the Burgundian parts of the country too the nobility were jealous 
of the increasing importance of the towns, and therefore attempted to con- 
quer Bern, but were defeated by the citizens at Laupen (p. 192) in 1339. 

In 1354 a confederacy was formed by eight independent districts and 
towns, which soon became powerful enough to assume the offensive, and 
at length actually wrested the hereditary domain of Hapsburg from the 
dukes of Austria, who tried in vain to recover it. 

Sven CbarU* the Bold, Duke of Burgundy, the mightiest prince of his 
time, was defeated by the Swiss at the three battles of Grandson (1476, 
p. 191), Moral (1476, p. 197), and Nancy, while at an earlier period a large 
body of irregular French and other troops, which had been made over to 
Austria by l^e King of France, sustained a severe check from the con- 
federates at St. Jacob on the Birs (1444, p. 8). 

In the Swabian war (1499) the bravery and unity of the Swiss achieved 
another triumph in the victory of Dornoch (p. 8). At that period their 
independence of the emperor was formally recognised, but they continued 
nominally attached to the empire down to 1648. 

The last-named victory formed a fitting termination to a successful 
career of two centuries, the most glorious in the history of Switzerland. 
At the beginning of the 16th century a period of decline set in. The 
enormous booty captured in the Burgundian war had begotten a taste for 
wealth and luxury, the demoralising practice of serving as mercenary 
troops in foreign lands began to prevail, and a foundation was laid for 
the reproachful proverb, 'Pas d''argent, pas de Sulsses!^ 

The cause of the Reformation under the auspices of Zwingli was 
zealously embraced by a large proportion of the population of Switzerland 
abcittt the beginning of the loth century; but the bitter jealousies thus 
sown between the Roman Catholic and the Reformed Cantons were 
attended with most disastrous consequences, and in the civil wars which 
ensued bloody battles were fought at Kaj^el (p. 69) in 1531, at VUlmersfen 
in 1666, and during the Toggenburg war (p. 56) in 1712. 

Traces of unflinching bravery and of a noble spirit of self-sacrifice in 
the cause of conscience are observable in individual instances even at the 
close of fhe 18th century, as ezampled by the affairs of Rothenthurm 
(p. §4) and Stam (p. 113), but the national vigour was gone. The resist- 



t The legend of the national hero of Svritzerland, as well as the story 
of the expulsion of the Austrian bailiffs in 1308, is destitute of historicsJ 
foundation. No trace of such a person is to be found in the work of John 
of Winterthur (Vitoduranus , 1349) or that of Conrad Justinger of Bern 
(1^30), the earliest Swiss historians. Mention is made of him for the first 
time in the Samer Chronik of 1470, and the myth was subsequently em- 
bellished by ^gidius Tschudi of Glarus (d. 15£2), and still more by Jo- 
hann v. Mitller (d. 1809), while Schiller's famous play has finally secured 
to the hero a world-wide celebrity. Similar traditions are met with among 
various northern nations, such as the Danes and Icelanders. 



iiylll XI. STATISTICS. 

tincc of iadlvidmili to tbe IniHiDn or the French 
nd the BelteHon RipiiAKc wu foaoded on 
u of the Mtlop. Id 1H03 Napoleon resto 



rs, 



of the tflvnlnti™ of lalj, 1891), w 



vmi throughon 



Area and PopoIstioiL 

^cording to the decennial eeneos of UtDei 



I. NORTHEEN SWITZERLAND. 



1. B&le • 2 

2. From Bale to Bienne and Bern through the Munsterthal 8 

From Del^mont to Porrentray, 9. — Ascent of the 
WeissenBtein from Mtinster, 9. — From B^vilard over 
the Montos to Renchenette. The Pierre Pertuis, 10. 

3. From Bale to Bienne by Olten and Soleure 11 

From Liestal to Waldenburg ; Langenbmck, 11. — The 
Schafmatt ; Eptingen ; the Frohhurg, 12.— The Neu- Wart- 
burg; Lostorf ^ Fridau.lS. — From Soleure to theWeissen- 
stein, 14. — From Soleure to Burgdorf ; to Lyse, 15. 

4. From Bide to Bern by Herzogenbuchsee 15 

From Herzogenbuchsee to Soleure, 16. — From Burg- 
dorf to Langnau, 16. 

5. From Bile to Zurich 16 

Konigsfelden ; Vindonissa, 17. — From Brugg to Wohlen, 
18. — From Wettingen to Oerlikon, 18. 

6. From Bale to Lucerne 19 

From Zofingen to Suhr, 19. 

7. From Olten to Aarau, Brugg, and Waldshut .... 20 

From Aarau to M uri and B^thkreus; Bremgarten, 20. — 
From Aarau to Baden, 20. — The Habsburg, 21. 

8. From Bile to Schaffhausen and Constance 21 

From SingentoEtzweilen, 23. — The Island of Reichenau, 
23. — Steamboat from Schafifhansen to Constance, 23. 

9. The Falls of the Rhine 24 

10. From Fri«drichshafen to Constance 26 

The Mainau, 29. 

1 1 . From Rorschach to Constance and Winterthur (Ziirich) 29 

12. From Schaffhausen to Zurich 30 

13. Zurich and the Uetliberg 31 

14. From Ziirich to Coire. Lakes of Zurich and Walenatadt 37 

1. Steamboat on the Lake of Zurich 38 

The Pfannenstiel, 38. — Hiitten. Gottschallenberg, 39. — . 
11. Railway on the Left (S.) Bank from Zurich to Zie- 

gelbriicke (Glarus) 40 

The Waggithal, 40. 
iii. Railway from Zurich to Rapperswyl , Weseu , and 

Sargans 40 

The Bachtel, 41 — Excursions from Wesen : the Biberli- 
kopf ; Amden; the Speer, 42. — From Hiililehom over 
the Kerenzenberg to Mollis, 43. — The Murgthal; the 
Roththor; the Widerstein-Furkel and Murgsee-Furkel, 
Miirtschenstock, 43. — From Walenstadt over the Kiiser- 
ruck to Wildhaus in the Toggenburg, 44. — The Alvier. 
From Mels through the Weisstannen-Thal and Kalfeuser- 
Thal to Vattls, 44. 
16. From Zurich to Romanshorn and Friedrichshafen . . 44 
From Oerlikon to Dielsdorf t Regensberg, 44. — From 
Winterthur to Waldshut, 45. — From Winterthur to 
Kuti(TdssthalBailway),46.— From Sulgen to Gossan, 46. 



Babdsksb, Switzerland. 12th Edition. 1 



2 Route t. 



BALE. 



Hotels. 



16. From Zurich to St. Gallen, Rorschach, and Lindau . 

From Winkeln to Appenzell, 46. — Ezcarsions from St. 
Oallen ^ the Freudenberg ; Untere and Obere Waid, etc., 47. 

— Excursions from Rorschach; the Martinstobel ; the 
Mottelischloss ; Walzenhausen ; Meldegg; Horn, 48. — 
Exursions from Lindau, 49. 

17. The Canton of Appenzell 

Chapel of St. Anthony; the Kaien, Vogelisegg, Gabris, and 
Stoss, 51-53. — From the Weissbad over the Hohe Kasten 
to the Valley of the Rhine, 53. — The Wildkirchli and 
Ebenalp, 54. — The Sentis, 54. — From the Weissbad 
to Wildhaus, 55. — Altmann ; Teufen ; Frolichsegg, 56. 

18. From Wyl through the Toggenburg to Buchs in the 

Rhine Valley 

Ascent of the Speer from Ebnat or Nesslan, 67. — From 
Nesslau over the Krazern Paas to Urnasch, 57. 

19. From Zurich to Glarus and Linththal 

The Rautispitz, Obersee, and Scheye, 58. — The Schild; 
Fronalpstock, 59. — The Oberblegisee, Saasberg, and 
Karpfstock, 60. — Excursions from Stachelberg, 60. — The 
Pantenbriicke, Uelialp, Upper Sandalp, andTodi, etc., 61. 

— From Linththal over the Eistenpass to Uanz, 61. 

20. From Stachelberg to Altdorf. Klausen 

21. From Schwyz to Glarus over the Pragel 

From the Muotathal to Altdorf over the Kinsig Pass, 
and to Stachelberg by the Bisithal, 63, 64. — The Glar- 
nisch, 64. 

22. From Glarus to Coire through the Sernf-Thal .... 

From Elm over the Segnes Pass to Films; over the 
Panixer Pass or the Sether Furka to Ilanz, 66. — From 
Elm over the Ramin Pass to Weisstannen, 66. — From 
Elm over the Sardooa Pass, the Scheibe Pass, or the 
Muttenthaler Grat to Vattis, 66. — From Elm over the 
Richetli Pass to Linththal, 66. 



46 



50 



56 
58 



62 
63 



65 



1. B&le. 

Railway Stations. The Baden Station (PI. D, 1), at Klein-Basel, 
is on the right bank of the Rhine. The Baden time is 4 min. in advance 
of the Swiss. — The Alsace and the Swiss lines both start from the Cbn- 
TKAL Station (PI. H, I, 6, 7) in Bale, on the S. side of the town. These 
two stations are connected by a junction-line, crossing the river (a journey 
of 10 min. ; fare 1 fr., 70 c., or'oOc). Omnibus^ see p. 3. 

Hotels. "^Tbois Rois (Plan a; D, 4), on the Rhine, R., L., & A. 4V3-6, 
B. 11/2, D. 4V2-5 fr. At the Central Station , *H6tel Euleb (PI. b ; H, 6), 
R., L., & A. 4-4V2< I>. 4-5, omnibus 1 fr. ; opposite to it, *H6tel Suisse (PI. c; 
H, 6), R. £ A. 3V2-4, D. 4-5 fr. ; Hotel Juba; *H6tel Victobia (PI. p; 
-V H, 6); HdTEL National (PI. q ; H, 6j; Hotel Hofeb (PI. o; H, 6}, R. & A. 
3-3V2, B. IVifr.? Faucon (PI. d; G, 6), corner of the Elisabethen-Str. — 
In the town: *Schiff (PI. k; F, 5), R. & A. 2V3-3, B. 1 fr.; Sauvaqe (PL e; 
E, 5); CiGOGNE (PI. f ; D, 5), R.& A. 2Vv, D- 3 fr. ; Hotel Centbal, oppoaite 
the post-office; *Coubonnk (PI. g; D, 4), Bellevue (PI. h; D, 4), both on 
the Rhine; *Post (PL i; B, 5). —At Klein-Basel: * Hotel Kbafft (PL m; 
D, 3), R. & A. 3, B. 11/4, I>. 3fr.; Croix Blanche (PL 1; D, 3), R. & A. 
2V2.3 fr., both on the Rhine; Basleb Hop (PL n; D, 2), R. A A. 3, B. 
IV* fr. ; Hotel Schbibdeb, near the Baden Station, moderate, R. 2, B. 1 fr. 



Bridges, BALE. 2, Route. 3 

Cafes. Trots Rats, on the Rhine; Kunsihalle; du Thidtre; Stadt- 
Casino; KleMbasler Oesellscha/tshaus, by the old bridge, with a terrace. — 
Confectioners (who sell ^Basler Leckerli'). Wire, near the bridge ; Kiss- 
Ung-Kuentzy, Freie-Str. 19^ Bvrckhardt, Steigsr, both in the Schneider- 
gasse. 

Bestanrants. At the Central station. Xibiger^ Barfiisser-Platz. Bier- 
halle zutn Parsifal^ Freie-Str. 49 (Munich beer). BUhler's Bierhalle, Steinen 
Suburb (handsome locality; in summer, Biihler's Biergarten, in the Ster- 
nengasslein). Wine at the VeUlinerhalU, Freie-Str. and at the Sehiitzen- 
haus (good stained glass). — In Klein-Basel: Burgvogtei, with a 'Bierhalle^ 
and garden ; Warteck Brewery, near the Baden station ; Oeschgei; Riehenthor- 
Str. 27. — JSommer- Casino (PI. 18; I, 4), near the St. Jacob Monument (p. 8), 
with a pleasant garden, music on Mon., Wed., and Frid. at 7, on Sun. 6 
p.m. (50 c.) ; concerts also at the Erlen-Park, 1^4 M. from the town, and 
in the Zoological Garden (p. 8). 

Omnibus (Stadtonmibus) between the Central and Baden Stations, by 
the Alte Briicke. — Cabs. For 1/4 hr., 1-2 persons, 80 C. ; second V4 hr. 60, 
each additional ^4 hr. 50 c. ; 3-4 pers. Ifr. 20 c., the second V^ ^' ^ each 
additional V4 hr. 70 c. From one of the stations into the town, 1-2 pers. 
1 fr. 20 c. , 3-4 pers. 1 fr. 80 c. ; from one station to the other 1-2 pers. 1 1/21 
S4 pers. 2V2 fr*) each box 20c. extra. At night (10 p.m. to 6 a.m.) 3fr. 
for the first Vz hr. and 1 fr. for each additional V4 hr. , and 10 c. per V^ 
hr. for lights. 

Post and Telegraph Offices in the Freie - Str. (PI. 16; £ 5); at the rail- 
way-stations ; in the Johannes suburb; and at the Schiitzengraben. 

Bafhs in the Rhine (PI. E, F, 4), entered from the Pfalz (p. 5); 1 fr. 
Warm baths: Stauffer-Bchmid, Martinsgasse; jSTt^rmtmof, Leonhard'Str. ; Zwn 
Bntnnen, Fischmarkt. 

Zoological Garden (p. 8) ; admission Vs fr. 

Fietnre Gallery 0/2 fr.) in the new Kvnsthalle on the Steinenberg (p. 7); 
another at Lang''s, Freie-Str. 

English Church Service in a chapel at the Hotel des Trois Rois. 

B&Ie, or Basel (870'), the capital of the half-canton Bale-Ville 
(pop. about 70,000), is first mentioned in the year 374 under the 
name of BasUea, having probably been founded by the Roman armies, 
when they fell back on the Rhine, near the old Colonia Augusta Rau~ 
Tacorum, which had been established in B. 0. 27 by L. Munatius 
Plancus (now Baselaugst, 5 M. to the E. , see p. 16). In the 
middle ages BMe was a free town of the Empire, and it has been 
a member of the Swiss Confederation since 1501. 

The principal town lies on the left bank of the Rhine, and is 
connected with Klein - Basel by three Bridges. The wooden Altt 
Brucke, 200 yds. in length, is partly supported by stone piers. In 
the middle of the bridge rise a chapel of the 16th cent, and a modem 
triangular obelisk, with a thermometer, a barometer, and weather- 
cock. Above the old bridge the river is crossed by the new Wett" 
stein Bridge (PI. F, 3), which commands a fine view. Below the 
old bridge is the Johanniter Bridge (PI. B, 4), completed in 1882. 
^The ^Hfinster (PI. 9; E, F, 4), a picturesque edifice of red 
sandstone, with its two conspicuous towers, was formerly the 
Cathedral of the see of Bale. The bishopric, founded by Charle- 
magne , was transferred , in consequence of the puritanical out- 
rages, to Porrentruy (p. 9) in 1529, and afterwards to Soleure 
fp. 13). The Miinster was built by the Emp. Henry II. in 1010- 
1019, and was restored in 1185 after a fire. In 1356 the old build- 

1* 



4 Route 1. BALE. Munaier, 

ing was almost demoliehed by an earthquake, bnt it was afterwards 
rebuilt in tbe Gothic style. The Towers y which are 218' in height, 
were not completed till 1500. Of the original structure the N. portal, 
or 8t. Oallua gateway, still exists, and is adorned with statues of the 
Evangelists, John the Baptist, and other saints; over the church-door 
is a relief representing the wise and foolish virgins ; at the sides in 
six niches are the 'works of charity, and at the top Christ on the 
Judgment-seat and the angels at the last day. The W. Front under 
the towers, with the principal portal and two side-entrances, be- 
longs to the 14th cent. ; on the front are represented the Yirgin and 
Child, and under them the Emp. Henry, the founder and bene- 
factor of the church, with the Empress Kunigunde ; on the two side- 
entrances are two knights, on the left St. George and the Dragon, 
and on the right St. Martin. The exterior is undergoing thorough 

restoration. 

The laterior is open to the public in summer on Wed., 2-4 p.m.; 
at other times 60 c. (medieeval collection and council-hall 50 c. extra, see 
below). The sacristan lives in the Miinsterplatz No. 13, but in summer he 
is generally to be found in the church (knock). The church, which is 71 
yds. long and 35V2 yds. wide, was skilfully restored in 1852-56, and is 
embellished with good modern stained glass. The beautiful rood-loft of 1381 
serves to support the large new organ. The pulpit dates from 1486. The aisles 
and choir contain old monuments and tombstones built into the walls. In the 
K. aisle is a Gothic sacerdotal chair of the 14th cent. ; we also observe a 
curious relief of the 11th cent, (martjrrdom of St. Vincent). The font is of 
1465; on the pillar opposite is the tombstone of the learned Erasmus of 
Rotterdam (d. 1536), with a long Latin inscription. In the retro-choir are 
monuments of the Empress Anna (d. 1281), consort of Rudolph of Hapsburg 
and mother of Albert I. , and of her youngest son Charles. The crypt 
is now occupied by the stoves used in heating the church. — In; 1431 
the great Oouneil began to sit in the Munster. It consisted of upwards of 
500 clergymen, including many great dignitaries, whose ostensible task 
was a ^reformation of the Church in head and members'-, but after having 
disputed for years without any result, and having been excommunicated 
by Pope Eugene IV., it was at last dissolved in 1448. 

The "^Mediaeval Oollection, which occupies the three floors of the 
building adjoining the church, is very interesting (open to the public. 
Sun. , 10.30 to 1 ; at other times adm. Vs fr. ; illustrated catalogue in 
French and German, 1/2 fr., recommended to other than hasty visitors, as 
the attendants cannot give full information). Ground Floob. Vestibule: 
antiquities of the flint period ; architectural fragments chiefly from church- 
es of Bale ; and the ^L(iUenki)nig\ a curious piece of mechanism not older 
than the end of the 17th cent., formerly on the exterior of the tower (re- 
moved in 1839) of the Rhine bridge. The later story that this head was 
erected in derision of the Austrians to whom Klein Basel was pledged 
in 1375-92 ia a mere myth. — The Waffenhalle^ or armoury, con- 
tains the chief curiosities of the arsenal of Bale; in the middle are 
interesting cannon of the 15th and 16th cent. ; to the right, by the win- 
dow, a suit of armour supposed to have belonged to Charles the Bold. — 
A winding staircase ascends to the rooms of the First Floor. In the 
Conciliums-Saal, or council-hall, the Council of Bale held their sittings in 
1431-48. Along the walls are arranged numerous casts of mouldings from 
churches of B&le; also eighteen fragments of the famous * Death Danee of 
B&le, a fresco which once adorned the wall of the Dominican burial- 
ground (taken down in 1805), painted early in the 15th cent. On a long 
table in the centre are models of buildings in Bale and of castles in the 
environs. — We next enter the Saal filr Pro/anarctUteefur , which con- 



Museum, BALE. 1. Route, 5 

teins panels, tiles i stone slabs, and other fragments from houses in B&le 
and other parts of Switzerland. — In the following room , the Saal far 
EauiaUerthiimer, is a collection of mediaeval furniture , tapestry, porce- 
lain, glass, jewel- caskets , and other articles for domestic use. Beyond 
these is the Dining -room of the Gountellor Lueat Iselin, of Bale ^ with 
rich panelling in the choicest woods, and dating from 1607. The adjoining 
Gothic Room of 1460 contains a large bedstead of 1510 and other Gothic 
farniture. — Two vaulted rooms on this floor are devoted to the illu- 
stration of the history of Handicrafts: in tbe first are fine specimens of 
iron work, bindings of books, goldsmiths^ models, etc.; in the second, 
the ecclesiastical treasures remaining after the division of the canton 
in 1833, large guild- vessels , gold ornaments from churches of B&le, frag- 
ments of stoves , and a collection of tiles. — (Halfway up to the next 
floor is a kind of gallery containing a collection of Domestic and Kitchen 
Utensils^ chiefly from mediseval Bale. — Second Floor. The Saal fiir 
MueikaUeche Alterthilmer contains interesting specimens of old instruments, 
showing in particular the development of the piano and wooden wind- 
instruments. — In the Saal fiir kircMicfie Alterthiimer are altars , carved 
wood, bronzes, and an enamelled * Votive Tablet presented by Duchess 
Isabella of Burgundy in 1433. — The Saal fiir Coetiime is chiefly devoted 
to Bale costumes of the 17th and 18th cent. — Lastly, the Saal fUr Reehte- 
und StaatsalterthUmer contains the weights and measures of Bale of the 
14th-18th centuries. 

On the S. side of the choir are extensive *Cloi8teTB| constructed 
in the 15th cent., restored in 1869-73, and used until recently as 
family burial-places. They extend to the Pf<Uz^ a terrace behind the 
Mtinster, planted with chestnuts, and affording a pleasing survey of 
the green river and the distant hills of the Black Forest, the 
outliers of the Jura, and (in clear weather) of the Vosges. Behind 
the Miinster, on the "W, side of the cloisters, is a statue of (Ecolam- 
padiusj and In the neighbourhood (Baumleingasse 18) is the 
house of Froben and Erasmus. 

-V'ln the Augustinergasse, which descends from the Munsterplatz 
towards the N.W. to the bridge, is the *Mu»eum (PI. 14; F, 4; 
open on Sun., 10.15 to 12.30, and in summer on Wed., 2-4 o'clock; 
engravings, Thurs. and Sat., 2-5; at other times fee llr.), con- 
taining a natural history collection and (on the upper floor) a pic- 
tare-gallery and collection of antiquities. 

<^ The Picture Gallery is chiefly interesting on account of its collection 
of paintings and drawings by the younger Holbein (b. at Augsburg 1497, 
d. in London 1543), who lived at Bale in 1615-26 and 1628-32 and here 
produced several of his best works. In the vestibule (left) a cast of the 
Uon-gate at Mycenae. The Staibcase is adorned with frescos of Gsea, 
Flora , and Apollo by BUcklin^ cartoons by Cornelius, Schnorr, and Steinle, 
Rtained glass, and a statue of Jason with the golden fleece, in marble, by 
Schldth. — Ants-Roou. 2-14. Old and modern copies of Holbein's oblit- 
erated frescos in the Council Chamber; painted organ-shutters from the 
Mimster, by Holbein; pictures by old masters of Bale (Hans Bock; 
Bier.Hess) and other places in Switzerland; 142. Thys, Pietlt. — Dka- 
WIK08. Among them are 78 by H. Holbein the Younger : 7. Family of Sir Tho- 
mas More (presented to Erasmus) ; 34. Combats of foot-soldiers ; *35. Samuel 
and Saul ; 49-64. Feminine costumes of Bale. — There are also 100 by Swiss 
and Upper Rhenish masters: 80-82. Ambr. Holbein; 85-101. H. Holbein the 
Elder; 127-130. M. Sehongauer; 131-134. H. BaldungOrien; 135-137. A. Dnrer; 
140. H. SebaldBeham; 145. H Schaufelin; then, 155. Raphael, God command- 
ing l^oah to bnild the ark, the design for a painting on the dome of the 
Stanza deir Eliodoro in the Vatican ; 156. Titian, Landscape with the flight 



6 Route 1. BALE. Museum, 

to Egypt. In a glass-case the original of "Hotbdn'i Praise of Folly. — Pic- 
tures. 1. HoibBin the Elder, Deatli of the Virgin, ff. Holbein the Younger, 
5. Last Slipper (earlier picture) ',7,8. Schoolmaster's signboard of 1516 ; 
"13. Portrait of Boniface Amerbach : 14. The burgomaster Jacob Meyer and 
his wife; 16,^18. Erasmus; 19. The dead body of Christ, of startling 
realism; *20. Wife and children of the painter; *21. Last Supper; *122. 
Lais Corinthiaca, the portrait of a lady of the noble family of Offenburg ; 
23. The same lady as Venus with Cupid ; **26. The Passion in eight se- 
parate scenes, formerly in the Rathhaus ; 34. Portrait of the printer Froben ; 
d5. A London merchant. Ambrote Holbein, 37. Christ as the Man of Sorrows ; 
88, 39. Portraits of boys. H. Fries (of Freiburg), 46-61. From the history 
of Mary ; 52-54. Two wings of an altar of St. John from Freiburg. 42-45a. 
N. M. DeuUch; 58. M. QrHnewald, Resurrection; 61-72. School ofM.Schon- 
ganer, including 65. Pius Joachim. H. Baldung Orien, *"76, 76. Pictures 
with figures of Death-, 77. Crucifixion; 78. Nativity. 81, 84. Luccu Cranach 
the Elder; "^97. Old Cologne School, Three angels on a gold ground; 
104. Lower Oerrnan Master, Coronation of the Virgin; * 106-113. Freneh- 
Burgundian Mcuter, Prototype representations; 126. Honthoret, The flea; 127. 
JHrk van Sandvoort, Songstress and flute-player D. Teniers the Younger^ 
134. Musicians ; *135. Rustic interior; 241. Smoker. 182. Teniers the Elder, 
Village tavern; 148. H. Aldegrever, The Anabaptist propliet D. Joris of 
Delft; *152. Rigaud, Portrait of M. Schaub; 168, 169. Brouwer , Portrait- 
studies; 183. W. van Mieria, Fishmonger; 185. A. vcm de Velde, (3ow8 and 
sheep; 188. K. du Jardin, Trumpeter on horseback; 186. Berghem, Cattle 
crossing a ford; 190. Wouwennanj Horseman at a canal-lock -, 191. 8. Ruyg- 
dael. Landscape with figures; 193. P. Neefs, Church-interior; 194. Rom- 
bouts. Forest scene; 195, 196. Rugendas, Battle-pieces; 197. Hobbema, 
Landscape; 198. Velvet Brueghel, Landscape with numerous figures; Mo- 
rales, 204. Mary and St. John, IK)5. Christ bearing the Cross; 2i7. Ific.Poussin, 
Bacchus and his train ; 231. Ph. de Champaigne, Portrait of an ecclesiastic ; 
*'232. Mabuse, Adoration of the Magi; 234. Koning , St. Jerome; 235. 
/. van de Meer van Haarlem, Horsemen in a forest; 236. Paul Bril, St. 
Francis; 243. W. van Aelst, Breakfast; 249, 250. Egbert van Heemskerk, 
Tavern scenes; 254. Dirk van Bergen, Sheep and cattle; Jos. Koch, 274. 
Macbeth and the witches, 275-277. Roman landscapes. 285. Overheck, Death 
of St. Joseph; 286. Bchnorr, *Domine quo vadis?""; 295. Ztnengauer, Sun- 
set ; 296. Feuerbach, Idyl ; 297. Lessing, Forest landscape. — Modern Swiss 
Masters. 334. Veillon, Venice; Barzaghi-Cattaneo , 336. Tasso, 390. Lady 

Performing music, *391. Fiesco; Vatttier, *336. Rustic debtor compelled 
y a rich neighbour and his agent to sell his property; ^336 a. The invo- 
luntary confession. 339-344. /. Frey , Italian and Spanish landscapes. 
SlUckelberg, *346. Festival of St. Mary in the Sabine Mts.; *347. Mario- 
nettes; *348. The painter's children. *349. Aur. Robert, Interior of St. 
Mark's at Venice; F. Roller, 350. Cows watering, *351. Horses on a road 
through a dale; Bdcklin, 353. Diana hunting, ^355. Penitent Magdalene, 
356. Centaurs, *356a. Sacred grove. *357. Diday, Scene on the Lake of 
Brienz ; Oleyre, "'SSS. Pentheus pursued by the Maenads, 359. *Charmeuse'; 
360-*362. Steffan^ Landscapes-, Leop. Robert, 3G7. Wounded bandit and his 
wife, 367a. Bandits' wives in flight; ZUnd, *371. Harvest, *372. Forest land- 
scape; Calame, *374. The Schreckhorn and Wetterhorn, *375. Forest 
scene; 376. Bocion, The harbour of Ouchy; 377. Bosshardt, Federal re- 
presentatives entering Bale in 1501 to administer the Federal oath to the 
town; E. Oirardet., 378. Fortune teller; 379. Village barber; 380. Snow- 
balling. 382. A. Corrodi, Boating party; 386. Bosshardt, Hans von Hall- 
wyl at the battle of Morat; 388. RuedisuhU, Marshy landscape; 389. 
Staebli. River scene; 392. Schioegler, Furrier; Diethelm Meyer, 393, *393a. 
Girls from the Haslithal and from the Valais ; 397. Grob , Portrait of 
Pestaloz/i; Anker, *399. Quack, *400. Children's breakfast; no number, 
Sttickelberg, Earthquake at Bale; ''■'Bdcklin, Naiads; Eugene Qirardet, Arabs 
drinking coffee. — Sculptures in the picture-gallery: Antique heads of 
Apollo and Hercules; /m^o/, Rebecca ; Kissling, Runner; <SfcAZ#eM, Psyche 
''marble statues). — Modern Drawings (fine old inlaid council-table). 2-23. 
less, Schraudolph, and /. C. Koch, Cartoons for the frescos in St. Boniface 



Raihhaus. BALE. 1. Route. 7 

at Hnnicli; cartoons by Overbed (26-36), Sehtoind (36 40), GenelU (41, 43), 
J. C. Koch (59, 60), Cornelius (61, 5*2; drawings for the Last Judgment), etc. 

Collection of Antiquities. In the first room are casts ^ coins and 
medals; a handsome antique cabinet. In the next room are vases, mo- 
saica, and other antiquities, chiefly found near Angst (p. 3). On the 
ground-floor a room containing Mexican, Chinese, and Japanese antiqui- 
ties; in the following room are various objects from lake-dwellings. 

The UniverBity Library in the same building (open 2-4) con- 
tains about 200,000 vols, and 5000 MSS. ; among the latter are the 
transactions of the Council, writings of Luther, Melanchthon, etc. 
The University (350 students) , founded in 1459 by Pius II. , was 
once famous for its mathematicians Bernouillij Merian^ and Euler. 
The hall contains upwards of 100 portraits of scholars of Bale, 
Including the cosmographer Sehcistian Miinster (d. 1552), the re- 
formers (Ecolampadius and Orynaeus, and the theologians, De Wette 
(d. 1849) and Alex. Vinet (d. 1847). In front of the aula are ten mar- 
hie busts, by Schloth, of professors of Bale of the present century. 

The BathhauB (PI. 17; D, 4, 5), or Town Hall, in the Market- 
place, was erected in 1508 in the 'Burgundian' (late-Gothic) style, 
and restored in 1826. The Council Hall In the Interior is adorned 
-with carvings and stained glass. The court contains a Statue of 
Munatius Plancus (p. 3), erected here in 1580. 

The old fortifications have been almost entirely removed , and 
their site converted into promenades ; but the handsome Spalen- 
Thor (D, 6), on the W. side of the town , erected about the year 
14(X), the St. Albansthor on the S. , and the St. Johannsthor on 
the N. , have been restored. 

Other MEDTfiVAii Stbuctubbs deserving mention are the late-Go- 
thic Fishmarket Fountain, of the 15th cent. , restored in 1851 ; the 
Spalen Fountain with a bagpiper, supposed to have been designed 
by Holbein ; the Eehhaus Fountain, in the Riehenthor-Strasse (the 
pillars of the last , which had become injured by time , have been 
replaced by faithful copies) ; and the Roman archway in the old St. 
Alhan's Monastery (PI. 5; G, 2, 3). — ■ The BarfaBser-Church (PI. 
4; E, 5), dating from the beginning of the 14th cent., with its 
very lofty choir, is now used as a store-house. — The Church of 
St. Martin (PI. 8 ; D, 4), was restored in 1851, when the choir was 
skilfully adapted as a Protestant place of worship. — The large Gothic 
(Rom. Cath.) Church of St. Clara (PI. 25 ; D, 2, 3) at Klein-Basel 
has been recently restored. 

Foremost among the modern buildings of Bale is the Gothic 
*St. EliBahethenkirche (PI. 6; G, 5), erected by Hr. Merian- 
Burckhardt (d. 1858). The interior is worth seeing; observe the 
fine stained glass from Munich. — Near it, on the Steinenberg, is 
the KnuBthalle (built by Stehlln ; adm. ^2 ^^0' containing a collec- 
tion of modem pictures and sculptures. Connected with it are a 
large garden and a restaurant , which is adorned with good mural 
paintings by Briinner. On the staircase are frescos by Stiickelberg. 
Between the St. Elisabethenkirche and the Kunsthalle is the new 



8 Route 2. ARLESHEIM. From BdU 

Sculpturhalle, containing plaster-casts. Next the Kunsthalle is the 
Theatre (PI. 23 a), opposite which is the Musiksaal^ hoth designed 
hy Stehlin. To the N. of the Petersplatz (PI. C, 6) is the Bemonl- 
lianmn , belonging to the university, an edifice for the study of 
physics, chemistry, and astronomy. The Yesaliannm, to the N., 
is the new University institute for anatomy and physiology. 

The Zoological Garden , adjoining the 'Nachtigallenwaldchen^ 
outside the site of the Steinenthor, and ahout 3/4 M. from the Central 
Station (adm. 50c.-lfr.), contains admirable examples of Swiss 
(mountain goats) and other animals. Concerts are frequently given 

on Sun. afternoons. 

The Konument of Bt. Jacob (PI. 3; 1,4), near the Sommer-Caaino 
(p. 3), by F. Sehldth , completed in 1872 , commemorates the heroism and 
death of 1300 Confederates who opposed the Armagnac invaders under 
the Danphin (afterwards Louis XI.) in 1444. Above is Helvetia in armour, 
with a wreath ; on the pedestal are four falling warriors in marble. In- 
scription: ^Our souls to God, our bodies to the enemy !\ 

The Kisaionary Inatitutiona of Bale are deservedly in high repute. 
The Mission House (PI. 13 ; G, 7) educates missionaries for the promulgation 
of Christianity. It contains an interesting ethnographical collection from 
the E. Indies and W. Africa, and two large modds of the Temple area 
and Great Mosque at Jerusalem. — In the neighbourhood are several 
charitable institutions: the Deaf and Dumb Asylum at Riehen^ 3 M. to 
the N.E., the missionary institution on the Cfi-ischona (1722^. 4 M. to the E., 
with splendid view , and the Reformatory at Beuggen , 12 M. to the £. 
(p. 21). — An excellent Society for the Promotion of the Public Welfare^ 
which has existed at Bale for more than a century, has a very extensive 
sphere of operation. 

2. From B&le to Bienne and Bern through the 

Mtinsterthal. 

77 M. Railway (Jura^ Ba-n & Lucerne Line) to Bienne (56 M.) in 3-4 
hrs.; fares 11 fr. 30, 9fr. 90, 5fr. 65 c. ; from Bienne to Bern (21 M.) in l-U/i 
hr. -, fares 3 fr. 75, 2 fr. 65, 1 fr. 90 c. [Railway from Bienne to l^euchatel 
(20 M.) in 8/4 -IV* br.; to Geneva (102 M.) in 5V4-7V4 brs.5 from Bale to 
Geneva, express in 7*/4 hrs. Through-carriages to Geneva and St. Maurice.l 

The Kiinsterfhal, watered by the Birs^ is the grandest and most in- 
teresting in the whole Jura range. It consists of a succession of defiles 
and narrow gorges, whose banks are clothed with pines, while the broader 
basins are enlivened with meadows, villages, mills, and factories. This 
valley , which belongs to the ancient bishopric of Bale , afforded the Ro- 
mans a route between Aventieum (Avenches, see p. 196), the most important 
town of Helvetia, and Augusta Rauracorum (Augst, see p. 16), one of 
their advanced posts on the Rhine. The railway through this beautiful 
valley forms a most interesting approach from Bale to Western Switzerland. 

B6lt (870'), see p. 2. Leaving tbe Central Station, the train 
soon diverges from the Central Line (p. 11) to the right, passes the 
cemetery on the right, and before (3 M.) Mbnchenstein crosses the 
Birs. On the hills to the left are several ruined castles. — 5 M. 
Vomach'Arlesheim, On a wooded hill, ^/^ M. to the W., near 
Arlesheim (Ochs 5 Rosli), rises Schlosa Birseck, once a ch^tean of the 
bishops of Bale, with a pleasant park, interesting grottoes, and a 
hermitage. (Apply to the gardener at the foot of the hill.) 



to Bienne. MUNSTBR. ?. Route. 9 

The train follows the right hank of the Birs. 7 M. Aesch (Sonne), 
a yillage on the left hank. The valley contracts. The train passes 
through a tunnel under the modernised chateau of Angenatein, and 
enters the canton of Bern. On a hill to the right is the pictur- 
esque ruin of Pfeffingen. On the right, before (974 M.) Orellingen 
(•Bar), are several factories. The train passes through a deep cut- 
ting and crosses the Birs twice; the valley then expands. Schloss 
Zwingen , on the right , was the seat of the episcopal governors of 
the district, down to the first French revolution. 

14 M. Lanfen (1155'; Sonne) lies at the confluence of the Liitzel 
and Birs. The train traverses a narrow, wooded valley. Beyond 
[16 M.) Bdrschwyl it passes through two tunnels and crosses the 
Birs twice. I872 M. Liesberg. 22^/2 M. Saugem, Fr. Soyhihres 
(H6tel de la Gare), where the language changes from German to 
French. On the right is the ruined castle of that name. At the rocky 
egress of the valley, before Its expansion into a broad plain, lies 
Bellerive, on the left, now a manufactory. On a hill to the right 
is the ruin of Vorburg. 

24 M. Delimont, Ger. Delaherg (1430'; ^Ours; *Faucon; Hdtel 
Cuenat , at the station ; *Rail. Restaurant') is an old town (3007 
inhab.) on the Some^ with a chUteau of the former Bishops of Bale. 

Fbom Del^ont to Pokeentbuy (18 M.) railway in V4-IV* br. (fares 
3 fr. 55, 2 fr. 50, 1 fr. 80 c). The line traverses the grassy valley of the 
Some. Stations Courtetelle ^ Oour/aivre, Batsecourt, and (TVzM.) Oloveliery 
Ger. JAetingen. Beyond a tunnel, 3200 yds. in length, and two others, we 
reach (11 M.) 8t. Ursanne (""Deux Clefs) , a picturesque old town in the 
romantic valley of the Doubs (p. 188), with a ruined chateau on a lofty 
rock. Another tunnel pierces the Mont Terrible. Stat. Courgenay. Then 
(18 M.) Forrentruy, Ger. Pruntrut (1457' ^ ^Ours; *Cheval Blanc) ^ a con- 
siderable town (5614 inhab.) with an old chateau, once the residence of 
the Bishops of Bale. — The line leads hence to Delle^ the French frontier- 
station, Belfort and Pari* (express from Bale to Paris in OVi hrs.). a 

The line traverses the valley towards the S.E. , and beyond 
(26 Y2 ^O Chwrrendlm, Ger. Rennendorf, enters the *ManBt6rthal, 
Fr. Vol Moutievj a wild, romantic ravine of the Birs, flanked with 
huge limestone rocks. The line is carried through these ' Gorges 
de Moutier' by means of a series of tunnels, galleries, and viaducts. 
(A walk from Roche to Miinster and Court is recommended.) In 
the middle of this defile are the glass-houses and forges of Roche 
(1570'), IV4 M. beyond which, on the opposite (left) bank, is the 
station of the same name (1650' ; *Rd88lij moderate). The train 
crosses the Birs by a lofty bridge and then , at the mouth of the 
defile, the Raushach. 

82 M. MfuiBter, Fr. Mouiier (1752'; 2133 inhab.; Couronne; 
Cerf; Cheval,' *H6tel de la Oare, moderate), a thriving village 
with a new Protestant church, prettily situated in a green dale. 

AaCKNT OF THE WBISSSNSTBIN FROM HONSTEB (81/2 hrS.*, COmp. p. 14). 

About 10 min. to the 17.E. of Miinster, or 5 min. from the station, at the 
mouth of the gorge of Roche (see above) a road (diligence to St. Joseph 
daily at 2.55 p.m. in 1 hr.) ascends to the right to (2 M.) Oran/elden (Fr. 
Oremdvaly 2010') and (8/4 M.) Crimine (2066'-, Croix). It passes the watch- 



10 RouU2. BIENNE. From BdU 

manufactory of M. Perret and ascends the gorge of the Raws, to (2 M.) St. 
Joseph am Oansbrunnen , at the N. base of the Weissenstein , the top of 
which (4220') may easily be reached hence by the road in 1V2-2 hrs. 
The footpath diverging near the beginning of the road is shorter. (Car- 
riage from Hiinster to the Weissenstein 25 fr. ^ there and back 30 fr.; fronti 
St. Joseph, 15 fr.) 

The line traverses another wild and very picturesque gorge, 
the ^Roches de Court, high above the Birs, and beyond a long 

tunnel reaches (351/2 M.) Court (2201'; Oura). 

From Court, or better from Bivilard (see below), a steep path crosses 
the Kontoz (4370') to (3 hrs.) Reuchenette (see below ^ guide advisable). 
View similar to that from the Weissenstein. 

We traverse pleasant grassy dales, pass SorvUier, Malleray'- 
Bivilard, and Eteonvilitr, and reach — 

421/2 M. Tavaxmes , Ger. Dachsfelden (2497' ; *Couronne), a 
large village at the source of the Birs (branch-line in 35 min. to 
Tramelan). The train ascends slightly, and passes under the 
Pierre Pertuis by means of a tunnel (1500 yds). 

The Pierre Pertuis (petra perlusa ; 2596')i through which the high-road 
passes, is a natural opening in the rock, 30-40* high, and more than 
once fortified in time of war. It bears a restored Roman inscription on 
the 1^. side, which cannot be earlier than A.D. 161. This defile, the 
highest point between Tavannes and Sonceboz, marked the limit of the 
Helvetian province, and afterwards that of the bishoprics of Avenches, 
Lausanne, and Bale. 

The train descends the slope to the right, describes a sharp curve 
between Somheval and Corgimpni, and crosses the Suze (or Scheussy 

47 M. Sonoeboz (2152'; Couronne; Rail. Restaurant), the junc- 
tion for Chauxdefonds (see p. 187). 

The train crosses the Suze, and passes through a tunnel under 
the S.W. spur of the Montoz (see above). The stream is crossed 
several times in its beautiful wooded valley. 50 M. La Beuttej 
53 M. Reuchenette (iQ4:2' ; Truite). The line now suddenly turns 
towards the S. , and enters the narrow passage which the Suze has 
forced through the last heights of the Jura range. Four tunnels be- 
tween this point and Bienne. On the right beyond the first tunnel 
is a fall of the Suze, and on the hill is the ruined chateau of Rond' 
chdtel. Two more tunnels. Pleasant view of the green valley of 
Orvin to the right. Beyond another long tunnel the train crosses 
the deep and wild ravine of the Suze (Taubenlock)hy a lofty bridge, 
and quits the ravine. "We now obtain a striking *yiew of the rich 
plains of Bienne, with the whole of the Alpine chain from the 
mountains of Unterwalden to Mont Blanc in the distance. We then 
descend vine-clad slopes to — 

56 M. Bienne, Ger. Biel (1444'; *Bielerhof, at the station, 
D. 3 fr. ; *Hot, Suisse ; Couronne; Croix; *Rail. Restaurant), an an- 
cient and thriving town (11,623 Inhab.). The * Museum Schwab, 
founded by Col. Schwab, and presented by him to the town, is 
an interesting collection of antiquities from the lake- villages, 
Celtic and Roman weapons, implements, coins, etc. (open onSund. 
and Thurs., 2-4; at other times on application). The beautiful 



to Bienne, LIESTAL. 3, Route. 1 1 

ayenueB enclosing the town stretch to the N. end of the Lake of 
Bienne, as far as (1 M.) Nidau, with its old chUeau, near the 
efflux of the Zihl or ThiHe (p. 184). Tramway from the station into 
the town, to Nidan and to the N. to Bozingen fFr. Boujean). ' 

A WiBB-RoPE Railwat (station 7 min. to the N.W. of the railway 
station at Bienne) ascends in 20 min. to the Kurhaus of '^Hagglingen, Fr. 
ifoeoltn (2960* -, E., L., & A. 4, D. 4, pens. 8-il fr.), splendidly situated on 
the slopes of the Jura, U/4 hr. above Bienne, and noted for its fine air. 
Large wooded grounds, and fine view of the Alps from the Sentis to 
Jfont Blanc. — Ascent of the Chaueral (by road, 4Vs hrs.), see p. 184. 

From Bienne to Soleure^ see p. 16; to Neuch&tel and Qentvc^ see B. 57. 

The Railway fboh Bibnne to Bebn crosses the Zihl near 
(58V2M.) Brugg, and the Aare before (61 M.) Busswyl. 

63 M. Lyss (Hirsch; Restaur. Ritter) is the junction of the lines 
to Payemc to the S.(p.l97) and to iSfoicure to the N.(p. 15). — 64V2M. 
Suberg ; 68 M. Sehupfen; 71 M. Munehen-Buchsee (*H6t. Kaech; 
Krone ; Bar), the seat of the cantonal seminary, which was trans- 
ferred in 1885 to the former institute of £. ▼. Fellenberg aXHofwyl, 
situated 12 min. to the £. On the right, the Bernese Alps from the 
Jungfrau to the Balmhorn become visible , but soon disappear. — 
73 M. ZoUikofen, a station on the Central Line (Bale-Uerzogen- 
buchsee-Bem). Thence to (77 M.) Bern, see p. 16. 



3. From B&le to Bienne by Olten and Soleore. 

63 M. Railway in 3-4 hrs. (fares 10 fr. 90, 7 fr. 00, 6 fr. 45 c). 

B&U^ see p. 2. The train crosses the Birs. 3 M. Muttenz. 5 M. 
Pratteln, the junction for Zurich (p. 16). On the Rhine, 1^2 M. to 
the N. W. (branch-railway in 10 min.) are the well-equipped salt- 
baths of Schweizerhalle. 

The line leaves the valley of the Rhine , enters the Jura Mts. 
and follows the left bank of the Ergolz. Near (71/2 M.) Niedet' 
Sehonthal, on a hill to the right, lies Frenkendorf (1120'; Wil- 
der Mann ; Lowe), a pretty summer resort. Near Liestal, on the 
left, is the large prison of Canton Basel-Land, and beyond it the 
Cantonal Hospital. 

9M. Liestal (1033'; 4679 inh.; *Falke, with salt -baths and 

extensive grounds , pens, from 4 fr. ; Schliissel ; Eng'el ; Sonne'), 

prettily situated on the Ergolz , is the seat of government of the 

half-canton of Basel-Land, or Bale-Campagne. In the council-hall 

is shown the cup of Charles the Bold, found in his tent after the 

battle of Nancy (1477). The collection of coins contains Roman 

and Swiss specimens. — Bien^nberg (Kurhaus , with salt-baths), 

IV2M. to the N.W. of Liestal, is a pleasant summer resort, and 

about 1 M. beyond it is the Schauenburger Bad (1730'). 

To Waldenbubo, 8VyH , narrow gauge railway in 1 hr., through the 
pretty Frenkenthal. 2Vs H. Bad Bubendorf, with mineral and salt baths. 
(The Tillage with its ruined castle lies 1 M. to the right.) 4 M. Lcunpehberg; 
fi'/s M. H9l$Uin^ in a narrow part of the valley, with manufactories of 



12 RouU3. OLTEN. Wrom BdU 

silk ribbon. Passing Niederdor/ and Gberdor/^ we reach (S^lt M.) Waldea- 
burg (1713' ; L^ice), a little town with a ruined castle and a pretty church. 
A good road leads hence (diligence 4 times daily in 50 min.) to (3 M.) 
Langenbmek i*Kfirkauty pens. O'S fr., with its d^pendanee Ochten; Pens. 
Bider^ etc.), situated on the pass of the Obere Hattenatein (SSSd'), a quiet 
and pleasant hill sanatorium. — A high-road leads from Langenbruck to 
the S.E. to Fridau and (5 M.) Egerkingtn (p. 13) ^ another to the S.W. to 
Holderhankf Balsthal, and through the JHfM, a dedle formerly fortified, to 
(IOV2 M.) Oensingen (p. 13). 

11 M. Lauaen. Before (13 M.) Sissaeh (1233' ; Lowe), a tliriT- 
ing yillage , we pass (r.) the small ch&teau and park of Ebenrain. 
Fine view from the Sissacher Fluh (23989, 1 hr. to the N. 

FsoM S18BAGH ovBB THB ScHAPMATT TO Aasau (13V« M.). By diligence 
to Oltingen in 2 hrs., via (2V4 M.) GtlUrkinden (1371'^ *R6ssli), a manu- 
facturing village; thence through a picturesque valley to the Hanggieisen 
waterfall; (IV2 M.) Tecknau (IW); to (IV2 M.) Wenilingen (ISeC) a steep 
ascent; (IV2 H.) Oltingen (19^'; Ochs), with a mineral spring. The path 
ascending the (Vshr.) ^Bchafinatt (2516') diverges close to the 'Ochs\ and 
is easily found, being provided with finger-po^ts. The summit commands 
an extensive panorama of the Jura and the Alps, which we enjoy until we 
reach a point overlooking the deep valley of Rohr. Taming to tike left 
here, we reach the upper part of a meadow, at the foot of which {}/% hr. 
from the top) lies a chalet and whey-cure establishment. From this point 
we enjoy a view of the environs of the Lake of Lucerne, the Rigi, Pi- 
latus, etc., framed by the mountains between which we stand. From the 
chalet to Aarau (p. 20) in I74 hr., past the LawreneetiXHid (p. 20), situated 
in a side valley to the left, and Erlisbach. 

To the S. of Sissach lies (7 M. ; diligence twice daily In IVi hr. 
via Zunzgen^ Tenniken, and Diegten) Eptingen or Ruch-Eptingen (1873'; 
KurhauSj with saline and mineral baths; pens. 4-5 fr.), situated in a 
narrow valley at the base of the Hauenttein (footpath to Lat^feljingen^ see 
below, Ihr.; to Langenbruck^ see above, IV4 hr.). 

The train quits the Ergolzthal, turns to the S. into the narrow 
and picturesque Homburger ThcU^ and beyond (15^2 M.) Som- 
merau passes through two tunnels. I91/2 M. Laufelfingen (2008' ; 
Sonne), at the foot of the Hauenstein, 

On the summit of the Hauenstein, ascended in % hr. from stat. Laufel- 
fingen via Reisen and Erlimoos (each of which has a Kurhaws\ is situated 
the *Frohbnrg (2772')) a Kurhaus, commanding a beautiful view of the 
Alps, from the Sentis to Mont Blanc ; in the foreground the Wartbnrg (see 
p. 13) and the Wiggerthal with the railway to Lucerne ; on the right rises 
Pilatus, on the left the Rigi. About 10 min. from the inn are some scanty 
ruins of a castle destroyed by an earthquake. Descent by Triiribaeh in 1 hr. 
to Olten. 

The train now enters the Hauenstein Tunnel, 2970 yds. long, 
during the construction of which in 1857 sixty -three workmen 
were buried by a fall of earth. Beyond it we observe on a hill to 
the right the small chiteau of Neu-Wartburg (see p. 13), to the 
right of which, farther on, the Bernese Alps gradually become vis- 
ible from the Wetterhorn to the Doldenhorn. The train descends 
by a long curve to the Aare^ crosses it, and ascends on the right 
bank to the station of — 

241/2 M. Olten. — ^ScHWBiZBBHOP; Hotel WisB, moderate; Halb- 

MOMD; ''Rail. Restaurant. Carriages generally changed here. Detention of 

Vi-Vs hour. On leaving the waiting-rooms the trains for Bale and Zurich 

are to the <«/<, those to Lucerne and Bern to the right. Pocketpicking 

ot uncommon here. 



toBienne, SOLEUBE. 3.RouU, 13 

Often (1296'; 3979 inh.), the second town in the canton of Solenre, 
prettily situated on the Aare, is the junction of the lines to Aarau 
and Bragg (R. 7), to Aarburg and Lnceme (R. 6), to Bern (R. 4), 
and to Solenre and Nench&tel (see helow). The Parish Church con- 
tains an Ascension by Disteli, and the Capuchin Church a Madonna 
by Deschwanden. Extensiye railway work-shops and large shoe- 
mannfactories here. 

To the S.E. of Olten, on an isolated hill on the right bank of the Aare, 
rises the Neu-Wartburg or SiUischloss (2237'; ^Restaurani)^ a small eh&teau 
recently restored. *View similar to that from the Frohburg (see p. 12). Good 
paths from Olten and from Aarburg to the top in >/4 hr. 

About iVs ^' to the "S.E. of Olten (diligence twice daily in summer 
in 11/4 hr.) are the sulphur-baths of Lostorf CKurJtaus^ moderate, 'pens.^ 
5 fir.), prettily situated at the foot of the Jura. On a cliff above (V4 hr.) 
rises the small chateau of Wartenfeh (2060'), with a fine view. 

Beyond Olten the train diverges to the right from the Bern and 
Lnceme line (p. 15), crosses the Aare, and traverses the plain 
watered by the JDunnemy at the base of the Jura. To the left the 
view of the Alps from the Glarnisch to the Altels is gradually un- 
folded. 26 M. Olten-Hammer; 271/2 M. Wangen; 29 M. Hagen- 
dorf; 31 M. EgerMngen (Kreuz). 

Diligence twice daily in 40 min. to fridan (2300' \ *KurhauSy pens. 
5Vs-6 fr.), situated on the slope of the Jura, flnd well fitted up. Beautiful 
view of the Alps from Sentis to Hont Blanc. Shady grounds and extensive 
wood-walks. The road also leads to Langenbruck, 3 M. farther (see p. 12 ; 
diligence in summer daily). 

32 M. ObcrbuchsiUn } 36 M. Oensingen (diligence twice daily 
in 13/4 hr. to Langenhruek j p. 12); 37 M. Niederbipp (to the right 
of which is Oberbippy with a handsome modern chltean). At 
(41 M.) Wangen the train crosses the Aare. Beyond Dcitingen and 
Luterbach we obtain a view of Solenre with the minster of St. Ursns ; 
to the right are the Rothe and the Kurhans on the Weissenstein 
(p. 14). The train crosses the Orosae Emme, not far from its con- 
fluence with the Aare. — 47 M. Neu-Solothum, 

Solenre. — Soleure has two Bailway Stations : Ifeu-Solothurn on 
the right bank of the Aare (V2M. from the new Aare bridge), and Alt- 
Solothum on the left bank, to the W. of the town. The Ursus-Mun- 
ster is reached from either in 8 min., but for a visit to the town and the 
Weissenstein the station of Alt-Solothum is on the whole more favour- 
ably situated. 

Hotels. ^B^ONK, B., L., A A. SV^i 1^* 3 ^^^'i ^Bajboetzi, near the Alt- 
Solothnm station, also a restaurant; Adleb; Hissch} Thubm; Ebeuz, B. 
2, B. 1 fr. 

lUstanrant of '^Bargeizi, with a few bedrooms , Va ^< ^o ^be N.E., 
near ihe 'Hermitage'* (p. 14), with a garden and pleasant view. 

Soleure, or Solothum (1424' ; 7668 inh.), on the Aare, a quiet 
place, the capital of Canton Soleure, was incorporated with the 
Confederation in 1481, and claims to be the oldest town on this side 
of the Alps next to Treves. (^ In Celtia nihil est Solodoro antiquius, 
unis exceptis TreviriSy quorum ego dicta soror\ is the inscription 
on the clock- tower,) It was the Roman Salodurumj once a flourishing 
settlement. The old ramparts have been almost entirely removed. 

The St. Unsus-MtJNSTBK, or cathedral of the Bishopric of Bale 



14 RouU3. WEISSENSTEIN. Erom B^ 

(p. 3), was bnilt in 1762-73 on the site of an edifice of 1050, in the 
form of a cross, surmounted with a dome and two half-domes. A 
flight of 33 steps leads to the fa^de. One of the adjoining foun- 
tains is adorned with a statue of Moses striking the rock, the other 
with a figure of Gideon wringing the dew from the fleece. 

The *A£8BNAL, not far from the cathedral, contains the arms 
of the cantonal militia, and on the first floor a collection of ancient 
armour, halberds, pikes, and standards, taken by the Confederates 
from the Austrians, Burgundians, and others. Among the curiosi- 
ties is a mitrailleuse of the 15th cent., adjoining which is an auto- 
maton. A large plastic group on the upper floor represents the re- 
conciliation of the Confederates effected at the Diet of Stans by 
Nicholas von der Fliie (p. 1 18), from a drawing by Disteli (d. 1844). 

The oldest building in Soleure is the CiiOCE Towsb, recently 
restored, which is said to have been erected in the 4th century B.C., 
but perhaps dates from the Merovingian period. The figures and 
mechanism of the clock are similar to those at Bern (p. 130). 

Under the arcades of the H6tel de ViUe, and in the Public 
Library, are a few Roman antiquities. The Mtueum at the orphan- 
age, near the bridge, contains a good collection of minerals and 
fossils. The Kurtatverein possesses a •Virgin and Child, with SS. 
Ursus and Martin of Tours, by Holbein ike Younger (1522). 

The *"Weiggen8tein (4220'), 3 hours' walk or drive to the N. of So- 
leure, is deservedly a very favourite point of view. It is reached either 
hy the carriage-road, vi& Ldngendor/ and Oberdor/ (two-horse can*. 20 fr. 
and fee), or (preferable) by the footpath (guide or porter 4-5 fr.), passing 
the Einsiedelei (hermitage), and over the Btiegenlos and Resi. Taking the 
latter, we pass the cathedral of St. Ours, and through the handsome Bale 
gate, and then bear to the left towards the Villa Cartier with its two 
towers, where we turn to the right. Farther on we enter the avenue to 
the left, at the end of which we turn to the right towards the church 
of St. NichoUu. Before reaching tiie church our route passes '*BargetzCs 
Brewery (with a few bedrooms) and turns to the left into the *St. y«r«na- 
thal (1 M. from Soleure), a narrow, cool, and shady ravine, Vz ^* i^ 
length. The path to the left, at the beginning of the gorge, leads to the 
Wengistein (see below). At the other end of the valley are quarries of Port- 
land limestone, where interesting fossils are found. The blocks of granite 
on the neighbouring slopes are believed by geologists to have been 
deposited by ancient Alpine glaciers. This gorge is now converted into 
a promenade. 

At the N. end of the ravine is the Hermitage of St. Yerena. On 
the right is the hermit's dwelling; on the left is the rock-hewn chapel, 
reached by a broad flight of steps, and containing a representation of the 
holy sepulchre with life-size figures. We may now ascend by the chapel 
to the crosses, pass near the large marble quarries, and traverse the wood 
to the Wengistein, the view from which is similar to that from the Weissen- 
stein, though on a smaller scale. A huge granite boulder here bears a Latin 
inscription recording two memorable events in the history of Soleure. 

From the hermitage to the base of the Jura, the footpath is uninter- 
esting. From the restaurant beyond the hermitage we ascend to the left; 
we then turn suddenly to the right beyond a house, passing a large cloven 
erratic block. The path then descends through wood. In 10 min. we 
reach the road, and follow it in the direction of the Weissenstein, passing 
a finger-post, as far as (V4hi'>) ^ajfem (1837'; Inn), at the foot of the 
Weissenstein. Above it we enter the wood to the left by a finger-post. 



to Bienne, AARBURG. 4, Route, 15 

ascend gradually, and then in steep zigzags to the (3/4 hr.) first bench, above 
which there are several others. The path soon quits the wood and ascends an 
abrupt rocky gully, partly by means of steps. Farther up, the ascent is through 
wood, and more gradual. In */« hr. we regain the road above the Ne*aelboden 
Alp (3447'), and following it, reach in '/z l^r. more the ^Kurhaus on the 
Ywdere Weissenstein (R. & A. 3-3V2» B. l*/*, D. 81/2, S. 2, pension 8 fr.), 
a sanatoriiun surrounded by woods and pastures, and much resorted to 
in summer. The footpath, diverging to the right at the end of the wide 
curve, 8 min. from the Nesselboden Alp, and then ascending to the left, is 
a short-cut. 

The *"ViEW is less picturesque, but more extensive than that from 
the Bigi; and no spot commands a better view of the whole Alpine 
chain from the Tyrol to Uont Blanc. To the E. are distinguished the 
Sentis, the Glamisch, with the Kigi in the foreground, the Todi between 
the Rigi and Pilatus, the lofty saddle of Titlis, and the Sustenhom; 
beyond Soleure are the Wetterhom and Schreckhom, the Finsteraarhom, 
Eiger, Monch, Jungfrau, Bltimlisalp, and Doldenhom -, then the Balmhorn, 
Altels, Wildstrubel, Wildhom, Diablerets, and to the S.W. Mont Blanc. 
To the S.W. glitter the lakes of Bienne, Morat, and Neuchatel; the Aaro 
winds to the S. through the fertile plains, and the Grosse Emme flows into 
it at the foot of the mountain. 

Pleasant walk through the wood to the (10 min.) Kanzli (4093'). — The 
^othe (4588'), */a hr. to the E. of the hotel, commands an extensive 
view towards the K. and E. (Black Forest and Vosges), which are hid- 
den from the Weissenstein , and affords a good survey of the pictur- 
esque mountaina and valleys of the Jura. — Towards the W. the view 
is concealed by the ^Haaenmatt (4746'), I'/z ^t^- from the hotel, whence 
an uninterrupted panorama may be enjoyed. The path to it leads across the 
pastures to the W. past (2 min.) the Hintere Weissenstein (4027' •, unpretending 
Inn) and over the ridge to the end of the meadows, turns to the left, ascends 
for 10 min. through woods, and skirts the crest of the hill for 10 min. 
more in order to avoid the ravine descending from the Hasenmatt. A little 
beyond ar path diverging to the chalet to the right, a narrow path, also 
to the right, leads to the top in 25 min. more. (The easier route past 
the chalet is V* ^J*- longer.) — We may now descend from the Hasen- 
matt on the N. side, walk round its W. and S. slopes, pass Lommiswyl^ 
and regain Soleure, or the nearer station of Selzach (see below). MUnster 
(p. 9) or Court (p. 10) in the Miinsterthal may be reached in 2 hrs. from 
the Hasenmatt. 

From Soleure to Herzogenbuehsee, see below. 

Fboic S01.EUSB TO BuBODOBF (13 M.) by the Emmenthal railway in 
1 hour. The principal station is (7 H.) ttzensdor/y the largest village in 
the lower Emmenthal. Burgdorf, see p. 16. 

Fkom Soleube to Ltss (15 M.) by railway, skirting the right bank of 
the Aare, in 1-1 Va hour. About halfway is BUren (Krone) , a small town 
with an old chateau. Lpss^ see p. 11. 

The Bienne line crosses the Aare. 48 M. Alt-Solothum (p. 13) ; 
then Selzachj Orenchenj Fr. Granges (Lowe), with watch-manu- 
factories, and Pieterlen. 

63 M. BiennCj see p. 10. 

4. From Bftle to Bern by Herzogenbnchsee. 

66 M. Railway in 3V4-48/4 hrs. (fares 10 fr. 60, 7 fr. 45, 5 fr. 30 c). 

To (24V2M.) Olten see pp. 11, 12. The line skirts the right 
bank of the Aare: to the left, the chUean of iVcw-Tfarf6urgf(p.l3). 
Beyond a short tunnel under the Aarlurger Schloss we reach — 

27 M. Aarbnrg (1286'; *Krone; Bar'), a thriving little town, 
picturesquely situated on the Aare (junction for Lucerne , p. 19). 



16 Route 4, BtJRGDORF. 

The old castle on a hill, built In 1660, with casemates hewn in the 
lock, is now a factory. 

Stations Niederwyl ; Murgenthal^ where the Murg is crossed ; 
Roggwyl / Langenthal (*L6we), a thriving village with busy timber- 
trade; Biitiberg. 41 V2 M. HenogenbnchBee (1500' ; 2346 inhab. ; 
*8onne; Rail. ReHaur.^ is a considerable place, with a loftily situ- 
ated church. 

To SoLSDBB (9 M.) railway in 40 min. Stations Inkwyl^ Subigen^ and 
Derendingen. beyond which we cross the Orosse£mme to Neu-Solothumi^. 13). 

Near (45^2 M.) Riedwyl we enter a grassy valley with wooded 
slopes. Beyond (47 M.) Wynigen a long tunnel (1 min.). The train 
now crosses the Grosae Emme to — 

52 M. Burgrdorf, Fr. Berthoud (1863'; 6581 inh.; *Hdtel8 

Ouggisberg and Bahnhof, both at the station; Stadthaus; Bar), a 

busy town, picturesquely situated. The substantially built houses 

are flanked with 'Lauben', or arcades, as at Bern. The public 

buildings, the hospital, schools, orphanage, and public walks testify 

to the wealth and taste of the community. In the chateau of 

Burgdorf, in 1798, Pestalozzi established his famous school, which 

in 1804 he removed to Yverdon (p. 191). Beautiful views from the 

church and chateau ; finer from the *Lueg (2886'), 2 hrs. to the E, 
Fbom Bdbgdokf to Langmau, 14 M., railway in 1 hr. The line as- 
cends the fertile Emmenthal. Stat. Oberhurg and HasU'RUegsau. From 
Buegsau, IVs M. to the X.E. of the railway , the RaehUberg (2768'^ fine 
view of the Alps and the Jura) may be ascended in V2 b'* — 6 M. 
LiUzelflUh-Qoldbach. Liitzelfliih was the home of the pastor Albert Bitzius 
(d. 1854), a well known popular author under the name of Jeremias Oott- 
helf. 71/2 H. Ramsey -Bumitwald (the latter lying 3 M. to the 11.)} 9 M. 
Zollbritei; 14 M. Langnau (p. 124). 

544/2 M. Lyssach'j 56 M. Hindelbank; 59 M. Schohbuhl, Beyond 
(6IV2M.) ZoWi&o/(Cn (junction for Btenne, p. 11), on the right, 
lies the Rutti, once the property of E. v. Fellenberg, and now 
an agricultural institution. Farther on , the train crosses the iron 
Worblaufen Bridge (below, to the right, the handsome bridge of 
Tiefenau over the Aare , constructed in 1851) and then ascends 
through a cutting to the Wyler Feld (drilling-ground), whence, to 
the left, we obtain a magnificent ""Yiew of the Bernese Alps. 
Farther on, to the right, is a new workmen's suburb (the *Lor- 
raine'), beyond which we cross the Aare and enter the station of 
Bern. The ^Bridge, 200 yds. long and 142' high, has a roadway 
for ordinary traffic below the railway. — 66 M. Bern, see p. 129. 

5. From B&le to Zurich. 

56 M. Railway in 2V4-3V2 hrs. (fares 9 fr. 40, 6 fr. 60, 4 fr. 75 c). 

To (5 M.) Pratteln, see p. 11. Near (7V2 M.) Aw^^t, pictur- 
esquely situated, we cross the Ergolz and approach the Rhine. On 
the left Kaiaeraugst , with salt-works and an old church. On the 
opposite bank of the Ergolz is the hamlet of Baselaugst, on the 
lite of the Roman Augusta Rauracorum (p. 3). 



RHEINFELDEN. 5. BouU. 1 7 

10V2M.Elieiiifeldeii (873'; pop. 2243 ; *not. des Salines, 5 min. 
aboTe the town, pens. 4-6 fr. ; *H6U DieUchy zwr JCronc, with terrace 
on the Rhine ; Zum Schutten ; Schiff; all with salt-baths ; *BeUe- 
vue, on the right bank of the Rhine ; beer at the Salmen)^ an old 
town, once strongly fortified, with walls and towers still partly pre- 
served, was one of the outposts of the Holy Roman Empire. After 
repeated sieges it was taken and razed to the ground by the French 
in 1744. Since 1801 it has belonged to Switzerland. The foaming 
river here dashes over the rocks, forming the HoUenhaken rapids. 
Near the town are extensive salt-works on the Rhine. 

We quit the Rhine, which here describes a bend to the N., pass 
(13 M.) MohLin and (17 M.) Mump/" (Soolbad zur Sonne; Guntert), 
and then return to the river for a ^hort distance. I8V2 ^* Stein 
(990' ; L6we), connected by a covered bridge with Sackingen (p. 21). 

We quit the Rhine, and at (201/2 M.) Eiken enter the pleasant 
and fertile SisseLn-Thal. 23 M. FncA;(1120'; Adler; Engel), a con- 
siderable village. The train ascends in a long curve to (26 M.) Hor- 
nussen (1275'). 28V2 M. Effingen (1427'), the highest point on the 
line. Then a tunnel, 2697 yds. long (4 min.), under the Bdtiberg 
(1945 *), the Mons Vocetius of the Romans. 31 M. Botzenegg. The 
train gradually descends ; magnificent view of the valley of the Aare 
to the right, and , in clear weather, of the St. Gall, Glarus, and 
Schwyz Alps. A short tunnel ; then a bridge over the Aare 259 yds. 
long and 104' high. 

36 M. Bnigg (1096' ; pop. 1435 ; ^Bossli; *Rothe8 Baua ; Station 
Hotet), an antiquated little town, the junction for Aarau and Walds^ 
hut (R. 7), is best surveyed from the Aare bridge. The ^Schwane 
ThumC dates from the later Roman Empire ; the upper part was 
restored in the 15th century. A little to the N.E. three of the chief 
Swiss rivers, the Aare^ the iJewss, and the Limmatj unite, falling 
into the Rhine at Koblenz (p. 21), 8 M. to the N. 

The ancient Abbey of Kdnigsfelden (8/4 M. to the S.E. of Brugg), for- 
merly a convent of Minorites, was founded in ISIO by the Empress Eliza- 
beth and her daughter, Queen Agnes of Hungary, on the spot where 
Albert of Austria, husband of the former, had been murdered two years 
before (1306) by John of Swabia and his accomplices. It was secularised in 
1528; the building was converted into an hospital, and in 1872 into a lunatic 
asylum. Of the old buildings there now remain the southern part only, 
the church, and the dwelling of Queen Agnes, which last now contains a 
collection of antiquities. Part of the church is now a magazine. The 
stained-glass *Windows in the choir, of the 14th cent., opposite the door, 
pourtray the history of Agnes, etc. On the walls are portraits of the chief 
knights who fell at Sempach (painted soon after the battle, but now much 
damaged). 

On the tongue of land formedyby the Beuss and the Aare once stood 
the conaiderable Helvetian town of v indonissa , which in the early centu- 
ries of the Christian era was the headquarters of a Roman legion with its 
Rhsetian cohorts, as is proved by inscriptions. The position of the amphi- 
theatre is recognisable; and the well of the Abbey of Eonigsfelden is fed 
by a Bubterranean Roman conduit. The town was destroyed in the 5th 
cent., and there is now no trace of its extensive edifices; but the name 
still survives in that of the village of Windisch , 1 M. to the E. of Brugg. 

Babdskeb, Switzerland. 12th Edition. 2 



18 BofUed, BADEN. 

Fbom Bbuqo to Wohlbn, U H., railway in 40 min. -~3 M. Birr/eld; 
5V2 M. Othmarsingen (junction for Wettingen and Aarau , p. 20) ; Vh M. 
HendtOiiiim (p. 20); 8i/i H. Dottikon-Dintikon (p. 20); 11 H. Wohkn-rill- 
mergen. (To Rothkreuty see p. 20.) 

We CI088 the Beusi near its nnion ^th the Aare, and beyond 
(38 M.) Turgi (junction for Waldshnt, see p. 21), reach the Limmat 
and follow its l^t bank. The steep slopes are clad with vines. 

42 M. Baden (1257'; pop. 3692; H6U Bahnhof; Waage) was 
much visited even in Roman times for the sake of its mineral 
springs (^Aquae Hdvetiae). In the reign of Nero, according to Taci« 
tus (Hist. i. 67), it had all the appearance of a town (Hn modum 
munieipii ex$1fuetus loeus, amoeno salubrium aquarum usu fre- 
querui'). In the middle ages Baden was a fortress, and down to the 
beginning of the 15th cent, was often the residence of the princes 
of Hapsbnrg. The extensive ruins of the fortress Stein %u Baden 
(1506^), destroyed in 1415 and again in 1712, rise above the town ; 
the grounds command a fine view. , 

The hot mineral springs (98*^-126® Fahr.) lie in the narrow val- 
ley of the Limmat (1190'), Dmin. to the N. of the station, t/2 M. 
of the town. The ^Small Baths' (AdUr ; Engtl; Hirseh; Behstock; 
8chwan)j on the right bank of the Limmat, are chiefly frequented 
by the neighbouring peasantry; the ^Oreat Baths' (^Kuranstalt 
Baden, a large hotel, united with the Staadhof ^ Hinterhof, pen- 
sion 8-12 fr.; Schiff; *Verenahofy 8 fr. ; Blume; Schwehxrhof; 
Freihof; Limmathof; Ochs; Bar) lie on the left bank. The Bahn- 
hof-Str. leads from the station to the handsome Kuraaal , with its 
pleasant grounds (^Restaurant ; music several times daily) and to 
the Kuranstalt (see above). Good view from the lower Limmat-bridge. 

From Baden to Aarau^ see p. 20; station on the S.W. side of the up- 
per town, 1 M. from the baths. 

We pass through a short tunnel under the Stein zu Baden (see 
above), and cross the Limmat to (43 M.) Wettingen. The village lies 
on the left, at the foot of the vine-clad Ldgemgebirge (2828') ; and 
on the right, surrounded by the Limmat, are the extensive buildings 
and gardens of the former Cistercian Abbey of Wettingen, now a 
seminary for teachers. The church contains a sarcophagus in which 
the remains of the Emp. Albert (see p. 17) reposed for 15 months 
before their removal to Speyer. Stained- glass windows of the 
16th and 17th cent., carved stalls of the 17th. 

Fbom Wkttingkn to Oeblikon, ISVa M., railway in IV4 hr. — 2V2 M. 
WUrenlos; 41/2 M. Oleljlngen-Daenikan (branch line by Bucks and ^ieder- 
glatl to Baiach^ P- 46); 6 M. Buchs-Bcellikon; S\2 M. BegenscLor/-Walt , a 
little to the E. of which is the small Katzensee with an "^Inn. lOVs M. 
AffoUem; 121/2 M. Seebach; 13Vs M. Oerlikon (p. 44). 

The train again crosses the deep bed of the Limmat and follows 

its left bank to Zurich. 46 M. KiUwangen, 49 M. Dietikon (1286'; 

Lowe). It was here that Mass^na effected his famous passage of 

the Limmat, 24th Sept., 1799, after which he repulsed the Russians 

ud took Zurich. Schlieren and Altstetten (p. 68) are the last stations 



SURS££. 6. Route. 19 

before Zurich. To the right stretches the long ridge of the UetU with 
its inn (p. 36). We now cross the 8ihl and enter the station of — 
56 M. Zurich, see p. 31. 

6. From Bdle to Lucerne. 

59 M. Railway ( Central) in 2V5r4V2 hra. (fares 10 fp. 25, 7 fr. 15, 6 fr. 10 c). 

To (27 M.) Aarburg, the Junction for Bern (B. 4), see p. 15. 
The Lnceme line trarerses the broad grassy Wiggerthal, 

30 M. Zofliig0n(143O'; pop. 4465; *i2oa««,- Ochs), a busy little 
town. The library in the Bathhaus contains a collection of coins, 
autographs of Swiss reformers, and the album of the society of 
Swiss artists, founded in the year 1806, which formerly met at Zo« 
flngen annually. On the branches of the fine old lime-trees near 
the Schutzenhaus two 'ball-rooms' have been constructed. In the 
BUichegut, near the town, are the remains of a Boman bath. 

From Zofingen to Suhb, railway in 36 min. Stations Safentcpl, KUlli- 
*«», Enifelden^ well-to-do villages, and (10 V2 M.) Sijthi\ the junction for 
Aarau and Baden (p. 20). 

33 M. Reiden, an old lodge of the knights of Malta, now a par- 
sonage. 35 M. Dagmersellen ; 37 M. Nebikon (diligence daily in 
3hrs., vitl WillUaUj to Wohlhausen in the £ntlebuch, p. 123). To 
the light appear the Bernese Alps; in the centre the Jungfrau, 
with the Monch and Eiger to the left of it and the Altels to the 
right. Beyond (39^2 ^0 Wauwyl the little Mauensee, with its 
island and castle, lie on the right. 

4372 M. Simee (1690'; pop. 1994; Sorme; HirscK), an old 
town, over whose gates the double eagle of Hapsburg is still 
enthroned. The Town Hall recalls the Burgundian style. 

Near (46 M.) Nottwyl we approach the Lake ofSempach (1663'), 
5 M. long, IV2 ^1- broad, and abounding in fish. On a hill to the 
right rises Schloss Wartensee. 4972 ^* Sempach. The small town 
(Kreuz; Adler) lies I72M. to the N., on the S.E. bank of the lake. 
Near Sempach Duke Leopold of Austria was signally defeated on 
9th July, 1386, by the Swiss Confederates, owing, according to the 
story, to the noble self-sacrifice of Arnold von Winkelried. The duke 
himself and 263 of his knights were slain. A column surmounted 
by a lion was erected beside the church in 1886 on the 500th anni- 
versary of the victory. 

A Chapei. (2064'), 1% M. to the N.E. of Sempach, marks the spot where 
Leopold fell. His uncle, Duke Leopold, bad been defeated by the Swiss 71 
years before at Morgarten (p. 94). The anniversary is still kept. 

The train intersects plantations of firs. On the right appear the 
precipitous cliffs and peaks of Pilatus ; on the left the long crest of 
the Bigi; between these tower the snowy Alps (see p. 72); the 
isolated mountain adjacent to Pilatus, rising above the lake, is the 
Titlis. 53 M. Rothenburg ; 56 M. Emmenbrucke (H6t. Emmen- 
brucke ; Bestaur. Seethal) , the junction of the 'Seethal' line to 
Lenzburg (p. 126). The line crosses the JBmme, a little above 

2* 



20 Route?. AARAU. 

its JTinction with the Reuss, and follows the latter, being joined 
on the right by the Bern and Lucerne line (p. 12B), and on the left 
by the Zurich and Lucerne line (p. 69). Lastly we pass through 
a tunnel under the 'Gibraltar' (p. 74). 
59 M. Lucerne, see p. 70. 

7, From Olten to Waldshut vid Aaran and ftmgg. 

32V2 M. Railway in 2 hrs. (fares 5 fr. 60, 4 fr., 3 fr. 85 c). 

Olten J see p. 12. The train runs near the Aare as far as Brugg. 
To the left rise the picturesque Jura Mts. 

4 M. Danikon; 5*/2 M. Schonenwerth ; on the opposite bank of 
the Aare is Schloss Gosgen with a ruined tower. A tunnel now 
carries us under the loftily situated town of — 

8V2 M. Aaran (1263'; pop. 5944 ; ♦ Wilder Mann ; Ochs ; *Ldwe; 
*Rd98li), a manufacturing place, the capital of Canton Aargau, 
on the Aare (which is crossed by a suspension-bridge, constructed 
in 1850), and at the foot of the Jura, the slopes of which at places 
are planted with the vine. The Qrossrathsgebaude contains fine 
stained-glass (from the Abbey of Muri, 16th cent.) and the Can- 
tonal Library (60,000 vols.). A house in the Rathhaus-Platz (No. 
882) contains interesting antiquities from Vindonissa. The histo- 
rian Heinrich Zschokke (d. 1848) once lived here ; his house, the 
^Blumenhalde\ is passed on the pleasant walk across the suspen- 
sion-bridge to the (1/4 hr.) *Alpenzeiger on the Hungerberg (Re- 
staurant, with fine view, pens. 4 fr.). 

Above the town, to the N., rises the Wasserjluh (285(y), and to the 
N.E. the Oiselafluh (2540'), over which a path, with a view of the lakes of 
Hallwyl and Baldegg, leads to the Baths of Schinznach. — Pleasant road 
from Aarau by Erlishaeh (p. 12) to the (4 M.) '^Laurenzenbad^ prettily situat- 
ed in the Jura. — About 6 M. to the W. of Aarau are the sulpbur-batha 
of Loitorf (p. 13), the road to which passes Erlisbach and Siiisslingen. 
— From Aaran to Sissach over the Scha/matt, see p. 12. 

Fbom Aarau to Eothkrktjz, 29V2 M., railway in IV2-2 hrs. — 4 M. 
Ruppersweil (see p. 21), 6 M. Lentburg (p. 126), S M. Hendschikon^ 10 M. DotU- 
kon-Dintikon; 12V3 M. Wohlen-Villmergen, two considerable villages (junc- 
tion for Brugg and Bale, p. 18). Branch-line hence to the E. to (0 M.) 
Bremgarten (Drei Konige; Kreuz), a small town on the Reu8s,with a 
ch&teau. — Then (16 M.) Bosteyl-Bilnzen and (18 M.) Kuri (1630'^ *L^e, 
with salt and mineral baths ^ Adler), with the extensive buildings of a 
Benedictine Abbey suppressed in 1841, now a school. Near the town is the 
picturesque wooded Miihitobel with several waterfalls. On a hill, l^/g hr. 
to the S.E., is ^Schloss Horben (2625'; pension 6-7 fr.), with extensive 
wood-walks and a beautiful view. — 2O1/2 M. Benzeruchwyl ; 22V2 M. MUhlau^ 
on the Eeuss; 25 M. Sins; 27 M. Oberrilti. We then cross the Renss to 
(291/2 M.) Rothkreuz, the junction of the St. Gotthard line (pp. 69, 95). 

Fkou Aabad to Badbn, 17V2 M., railway in 1 hr. 20min. — 8 M. 
Suhr (branch-line to Zoftngen^ p. 19); 5V2 M. Hunzemchwyl (on a hill to 
the right the Staufberg). 7^/2 M. Lenzhurg (p. 126; 'Seethalbahn' to 
Lucerne see R. 39), where the Aa is crossed. IOV2 M. Othmarsingen, 
junction for Brugg and Wohlen (p. 18). Kear (11 M.) MUgemoyly on a 
spur of the Kestenberg, to the left, rises Schloss Braunegg. The train 
crosses the Reuss. 13V2 M. Mellingen; 15V2 M. Biittwyl; IV/t M. Baden 
(p. 18; the station lies to the S.W. of the upper town, see p. 18). 



SACKINGEN. 8. lioute. 21 

On the left, beyond the Aare, at the foot of the Giselafluh, lies 
Bibersiem , with an old castle , formerly a lodge of the knights of 
St. John. 13 M. Ruppersweilj to the right the Staufberg and the 
chateau of Lenzburg (p. 126). 15 M. WUdegg, with a castle of that 
name, on the foot of the Wulpelaherg, has mineral springs contain- 
ing iodine and bromine, the water of which is used for exportation 
only. On a hill beyond the Aare rises ScMosa Wilderutem» I7Y2M. 
Stat. Schinxnaeh lies halfway between the Tillage, on the left bank 
of the Aare, and the (3 M.) Schinznacher Bad, or Habsburger Bad 
(1203'), with sulphur -baths, chiefly frequented by French Yisitors 

l*Kurhau8j with pretty grounds, pens. 4-7 fr.). 

The baths lie at the foot of the Wulpelsberg (1686'), on the top of 
which 0/2 hr.) are the ruins of the '^Hahsburg, the cradle of the imperial 
family of Austria, erected by Count Radbod von Altenburg about 1020. 
The tower, with walls 8* thick, is the only part now standing. The ad- 
joining house is occupied by a farmer. The view embraces the entire 
dominions of the ancient counts of Hapsburg, and the valleys of the Aare, 
Reuas, and Limmat, bounded on the S. by the Alps. 

1972 M. Bragg, and thence to (22 M.) Turgi, see p. 18. 

The "Waldshut train crosses the Limmat near its influx into the 
Aare, passes stat. Siggenthal^ and traverses the broad valley of the 
Aare, which it approaches near (28 M.) Doitingtn-KUngnau. It then 
describes a wide curve, passes through a tunnel, and crosses the 
Rhine near (3072 M.) Koblenz^ above the mouth of the Aare. 

321/2 M. Waldshut, see p. 22. 

8. From B&le to Schaffhausen and Constance. 

89 M. Baden Railway in Shrs. (to Schaflfhausen 9fr. 50, 6fr. 30, 4fT. 
5c.^ to Constance 14 fr. 50, 9 fr. 65. 6 fr. 20c.). Neuhamen (p. 22) is the 
station for the Falls of the Rhine (R. 9). Views to the right. — Stkamek 
from SchafFhausen to Constance in S^/2-i hrs. (descending in 3 hrs.), pleas- 
ant if time and weather permit (see p. 23; fares 3 fr., 1 fr. 95 c). 

Bale (Baden station), see p. 2. We traverse a fertile plain 
between the S. spurs of the Black Forest and the deep bed of the 
Rhine. Stations Orenzach^ Wyhlen, Herihen, At (10 M.) Bci 
Rheinfeldcn (Bahnhotel ; Bellevue), opposite Rheinfelden (p. 17), 
the line approaches the Rhine^ which here dashes over rocks. The 
left bank is precipitous and wooded. 

12 M. Beuggen; to the right is a large building with many 
windows, formerly a Teutonic lodge, now a reformatory and a semi- 
nary for teachers. 15 M. Niederachworstadt. To the left of (17 M.) 
Brennet (*Zum Wehrathal) opens the * Wehrathal (see Baedekers 
Rhiru). 

20 M. Saddngen (957'; Soolbad or Lowe; Schiltze^ a consider- 
able town, has a large abbey-church with two towers. The castle 
on the Khine, which figures in Scheffel's poem 'The Trumpeter of 
Sacklngen' (Trompeter von Sackingen), is now the property of 
Hr. Bally. Pretty grounds. 

24 M. Murg (Zum Murgthal), where we cross the Murg. Op- 



22 Routes. SCHAFFHAUSEN. From BdU 

posite (251/2 M.) Lauferiburg (•Post), is the Swiss town of Lanfen- 
borg (Rheinsoolbad), very picturesquely placed on the left bank, 
with its lofty church, ruined castle, and old watchtowers. The 
Rhine here forms a roaring cataract called the ^Laufen\ 

A long tunnel; then, beyond (29 M.) Albert'Hauenstein, a lofty 
viaduct. At intervals we approach the river. Near (30 M.) Alhbruck 
the Alb is crossed. 32 M. Dogem. 

35 M. Waldihiit(1122'; H6t. Sehatzle, at the station; H6i. 
Blumer; Rebstockj in the town), the largest of these small towns 
on the Rhine, lies high above the river. — Railway to Turgi (for 
Zurich), see above ; to Winterthur, see p. 45. 

Beyond Waldshut a tunnel ; to the right, occasional glimpses of 
the Alps. Before (38 M.) Thiengen (Krone) we cross the Sehluchty 
and at (40^2 ^0 Oberlauchringen the Wutcuih. To the right, on a 
wooded height, is the ruin of Kussenberg. Stations Griessen, Erzin- 
gen, Wilchingen, Neunkirch^ Beringtn^ and {bl^j^ M.) Neuhausen^ 
the station for the Falls of the Rhine (p. 24). 

59 M. Schaffhansen. — "^JTrone, in the town, R. 2V2 fr.; «£hein. 
HoF,^ ^MuLLEB, and Ri£S£, at the station; *Post; Schwan; "^Tanne and 
ScHiFP,- unpretending; HeHaur. Kronenhalle^ at the back of the Krone ; 
**Rail. Restaurant. Omnibus from steamer to railway Va fi** Baths in the 
Rhine, at the upper end of the town, 6-1 and 5-8, for ladies 2-5. 

Schaffhausen (1414'^ pop. 11,795), the capital of the canton of 
that name, still retains some of the features of a Swabian town of 
the empire. It presents a most picturesque appearance when seen 
from the village of Feuerthalerij on the left bank of the Rhine (two 
bridges), or from the villa Charlottenfels (1384') on the right bank. 
Hr. Moser (d. 1871), the late proprietor of the villa, originated the 
imposiog • Waterworks in the Rhine (outside the Muhlenthor), by 
means of which the factories of the town are supplied. with water- 
power. 

The Cathhpkal, once an abbey-church, an early-Romanesque 
basilica, was erected in 1052-1101. Interior lately restored. The 
Gothic cloisters are tolerably preserved. The inscription on the great 
bell, cast in 1486: Vivos voco, mortuos plango, fulgura frango^ 
suggested Schiller's beautiful 'Lied von der Glocke'. The Gothic 
Church of St. John contains an excellent new organ. 

The castle of Munot (properly Unnoi), built in 1564-82 on the 
site of an old Franconian watch-tower and recently restored, com- 
mands the town. It consists of a round tower containing a winding 
inclined plane instead of a staircase, with walls 16' thick (fine view 
from the top). 

The Imthurnbum, erected by Hr. Imthurn (d. 1881), a native 
of Schaffhausen and a London banker , and presented to the town, 
contains a theatre, a music-school, and exhibition rooms. Opposite, 
in the Herrenacker, is the Museum^ with natural history specimens 
and antiquities (including those found in the Kesslerloch near 
Thayingen), and the town-library. In the neighbouring govern- 



to Constance. SINOEN. 8. Route. 23 

ment bnildings is preserved a large ony:s, dating from the Roman 
imperial epoch, and representing a goddess of peace (adm. 11-12 
gratis ; at other times 1 fr.). 

In the pretty Fasenstaub Promenade is a hust of the Swiss his- 
torian Johannes v. Muller (b. at Schafifhausen 1752; d. at Gassel, 
1809). The lofty terrace towards the Rhine affords a fine view of 
the rapids and the Alps. 

From Schaffhausen to tlie Falls of the Rhine (2 M.), see p. 25. Cab 
for one person to Keuhausen 1 fr.40c.; Schlosschen Worth, Hdt. Bellevue, or 
Schweizerhof 2 fr. \ Laufen or Dachsen 4 fr. ; drive back, inclnding stay 
of 1 hr., 1 fr. more. — Pretty walk through tlxe MUhlenthal to the Beekeh- 
amtshiUU, with a view of the Alps, and back to Schaffhausen by the 
Hoch^uh (another fine point of view) and the suburb of St^g (li/x hr. in all). 
Otber fine views may be obtained from the Beringer Randen (belvedere), 
4 H. to to the W. (to Beringen station in 20 min., see p. 22), and from 
the Hohe Randen (29550, IOV2 H. to the K.W., reached vi& ffemmen$tadi 
or Merithatuen. 

The line now turns to the N.E. Stations Herblingenj Thayingen, 
and Gottmadingen. — 71 M. Singen (* Krone; Hohgauer Hof; 
Rail. Restaur,) J the junction for the Black Forest Railway. 1 hr. to 
the N.W. rises the Hohentwiel (2244^, with grand ruins and a 
noble Tiew (see Baeddcer^s 8. Oermany). 

Fbom Singen to Etzweilen, railway in V* br. (1 fr. 30, 90, 65 c). 
Stations Rielasingen^ Ramsen. We cross the Rhine between Hemisho/en and 
Rheinllingen (p. 24). 9 M. Etzweilen (p. 90). 

751/2 M. Rickelshauaen; 77^/2 M. JtiAolftOl (*8chiff; Krone), an 

old town on the Untereee, with a Gothic church of 1436. Near it,, 

on the lake, is Seehalde, formerly the villa of Victor v. Scheffel, 

and containing a monument to the poet (d. 1886). 

In the middle of this basin of the Lake of Constance lies the island 
of Seichenan, in the dominions of Baden, 3 M. long, 1 M. wide, connected 
with the £. shore by an embankment, >/4 ^' ii^ length. (Boat from 
Allensbach to the island in 25 min.^ from Constance to the island by the 
embankment 41/2 H.; the Schaffhausen steamers also touch at Beichenau 
twice daily.) The Benedictine Abbey, once richly endowed, fell to decay 
owing to mal-administration in the 14th cent., and was secularised in 1799. 
The church, consecrated as. early as 806, contains the remains of Charles the 
Fat, great-grandson of Charlemagne, who was dethroned in 887. It is now 
the parish church of the neighbouring village of Mittelzell or Miinster (Krone). 
The tower and nave belong to the original building. There are now few 
antiquities here, except several reliquaries in the sacristy. The Carolingian 
churches of Oberzell and Unterxell are architecturally interesting. 

The train intersects the tongue of land between the Untersee 
and the Ueberlinger See on the S.W. side, passes Markelfingeny 
Allensbach^ and Reichenau, and crosses the Rhine to (89 M.) Con^ 
stance (p. 27), by an iron bridge embellished with statues. 



Steamboat fbom Schaffhausen to Constance. Charts of the journey 
are issued gratuitously on board the steamboats ; the stations are indicated 
with daggers.) Pier (omnibus, p. 22) above the bridge, near ScTUoss Munot 
(p. 22), opposite Feuerthalen. — Bight: Paradies, formerly a nunnery. 

t Left: BUsingeUy a Baden village. 

E. iSt. Caiharinenthal, formerly a nunnery, now a hospital for in- 
curables; opposite (left) Villa Rauschenberg. 

t B. Diessenhofen (1325'; Adler; LHwe; HincK), the Roman Quno- 



24 Routes. STEIN. 

durum. The Bhine is crossed here by a covered wooden bridge, below 
which the steamer lowers its funnel. 

R. BhtinkUnf^en ; left, J?«fr«m. We now pass nnder the handsome 
bridge of the North East line (see p. 23). I^. Hemuhqfen, with the ruin 
of Wolketutein above. B. Waffenhattsen. 

t L. Btein (* Sonne; Sehwan)^ a picturesque old town, connected with 
the village of Burg (Wasserfels) by a new wooden bridge, and a station on 
the Winterthnr railway (p. 30). The suppressed monastery of 8t. Oeorge 
contains a hall with a vaulted wooden roof, erected in 1516, and embel- 
lished with frescos. The Rathhaus contains a collection of stained glass, 
old weapons, etc. The old chateau of Hohenklingen (1945'), on a hill to 
the N. of the town, affords an admirable view. 

Above Stein is the island of St. Othmar with the chapel of that name. 
The Rhine widens, the steamer enters the XTntanee. R. Btchent (p. 30) ; 
on the hill above it the ch&teau of Freuden/els. 

t L. Oberiiaad^ an old mansion with a square tower, now occupied 
by dyeworks; beyond it the suppressed monastery of Oehningen. 

t R. Mammem (p. 30)-, in the wood, the ruin of Neuburg ; on the 
bank, the house of Olarisegg. 

t L. Wangen and the chateau of Marhach (now a hydropathic estab.). 

t R. SUckbom (p. 30). Below it, the former nunnery of Feldback. 

f B. Bwltngm (p. 30). The lake expands, and we now see the island 
of Reichenau (p. 30). On the bill to the right is the chateau of £ugena- 
berg, erected by Eugfene Beaubarnais, vice-king of Italy, and now the 
property of Count Reichenbach-LessonitK. 

f R. Mannenbach (Pens. Fehr), charmingly situated, above which is 
the handsome pinnacled chateau of Salenstein ; then, on a beautifully wood- 
ed hill, Arenaberg (1052'), once the residence of Queen Hortcnse (d. 1837) 
and her son Napoleon III. (d. 1873), now the property of the ex-Empress 
Eugenie, and containing many reminiscences of Napoleon I. 

t R. Ermatingen (p. 80), prettily situated on a promontory; on 
»the hill above it, Sehlou Wol/*berg (now a ^Kurhaus* and pension). The 
neighbouring Sohlots Bard, with its beautiful garden, is not visible. 

t L. Oberzell, on the island of Reichenau (see above). We now enter 
the narrow arm of the Rhine connecting the Untersee with the Lake of 
Constance. 

t R. Oottlieben (Krone), with a chateau, now restored, in which Huss 
and Jerome of Prague, and afterwards Pope John XXII. were confined 
by order of the Council. The chateau and ruin of Castel, on the hill at 
the back of the village, command a charming view. Beautiful retrospect 
of the Untersee, with the Hohenhofen, Hohenstoffeln, and other peaks of 
the Hohgau in the distance. 

The banks now become flat, and at places marshy. We thread our 
way through reedy shallows (1. Petershausen ^ with large barracks), and 
at length pass under the handsome railway-bridge of Constance (p. 27). 
Passengers are landed at the pier with a lighthouse at its E. end. 

9. Tke Falls of the Rhine. 

Comp. Map^ p. 2€. 

Hotalfl. On the hill on the right bank , near stat. Neubausen (p. 22), 
*Sghwbizebhof, R., L., & A. 5-6, D. 4-5 fr., well managed (no fees), with 
extensive grounds and the finest view of the Falls and the Alps ; Bbllevue, 
R., L., & A. 3-4, D. 31/2 fr. *, omnibuses from both to the station and pier 
at SchafThausen (li/s fr.). At Neuhausen, *'Uutel Rheimfall, ^Rheihhof, 
with baths, both moderate. — On the l^t bank, above the Falls, Hot. 
ScHix)SS Ladfbk, R. 2V« fr. ', Wixzio, at stat. Dachsen, »/4 M. from the 
Falls (omnibus from both hotels in 8 min.). Illumination of the Falls 
with electric light every evening in summer (1 fr.). 

English Church Service at the Schweizerhof. 

The station for the Falls on the right bank is ITeukausen (p. 22) on the 
aden Railway, that on the left bank Dachten (p. 30) on the Swiss line. 



. 1 



FALLS OF THE RHINE. 9. Route. 25 

The best way to see the Falls is to start from Neahaasen and follow 
the route described below (cross the bridge to Schloss Lau/en^ descend to 
the FUcheiz^ cross to the BchldncJwn Wdrth^ and retnm through the 
^nnds, IVs br. in all). This round is often taken in the reverse direc- 
tion, bat as the Fischetz, the most striking point of all is then visited 
first , the other points lose much of their impressiveness. — Travellers who 
desire to combine a visit to the falls with the journey to or from Switeer> 
land alight at stat. JDaehsen (allowing luggage to go on to its destination 
and await their arrival), walk or drive (omnibus there and back IV2 fr.) 
to (1 M.) Lauferiy descend through the grounds to the Fischetz, cross to 
StAldsschen W&rthj and return to Scbloss Laufen by the Bheinfallbriicke ; 
or descend from Worth by the road on the right bank to the (3/4 M.) vil- 
lage of -^ohL cross the river (ferry 15-20 c), and regain Dachsen in a few 
minutes. — The pleasant est way to visit the Falls from Sehaffhausen (p. 22) 
is to drive in an open carriage, via Feuerthalen, to Scbloss Laufen. Or 
the traveller may walk to Nenhausen and cross the railway-bridge to the 
Scbloss (2 M.)^ Omnibuses ply from the Hotel Scbloss Laufen and from 
the hotels on the right bank to the railway station and steamboat quay 
at Sehaffhausen. — All the points of view should if possible be visited , 
as the tr avell er's impression of the Falls will otherwise be imperfect. 

The **FalIs of the Khine are in point of volume the grandest 

in Europe. The Rhine is precipitated in three leaps over an 

irregular rocky ledge, which on the side next the left bank is 

about 60' in height, and on the right bank about 48'. Above the 

Falls the river is about 125 yds. in width. If the rapids and the 

cataracts a few hundred paces farther up be taken into account, the 

total height of the falls may be estimated at nearly 100'. (Level 

of the Rhine below the falls 1180'.) In June and July the river is 

much swelled by melting snow. Before 8 a.m. and after 3 p.m. 

numberless rainbows are formed by the sunshine in the clouds of 

silvery spray. The spectacle Is also very impressive by moonlight. 

Of the four limestone -rocks which rise above the Falls, that nearest 
the left bank has been worn by the action of the water to one-third of 
it0 original thickness, but has lately been buttressed with masonry. When 
viewed from a boat below, the rocks seem to tremble. The central and 
higheat rock , surmounted by a small pavilion, may be reached by boat, 
and ascended by a path protected by a railing. The Falls are here surveyed 
to the best advantage. The passage, which only occupies a few minutes, 
is unattended with danger (1-2 pers. 3 fr. and fee *, each additional person 
1 fr.). — It is a curious fact that no mention of the Falls of the Bhine 
occurs in history before the year 980. It has therefore been assumed that 
they did not exist until about a thousand years ago. The theory of Prof. 
E. I>ietrieh of Berlin is, that, while the bed of the river below the falls has 
gradually been deepened by erosion, the deepening process above the falls 
has been retarded by the hardness of the rocky barrier above mentioned. 

Leaving the Neuhausen Station (p. 22), we follow the road to 
the left, and after a few paces descend by a path to the right to the 
village. Beyond the H6tel Rheinfall we descend to the right by a 
finger-post, and after 100 paces take the shady path to the left, 
passing the Chin and Waggon Factory (a projecting point near which 
affords a fine Tiew of the Falls) to the (V4 hr.) ^Sheinfallhraoke, 
210 yds. long, which carries tiie 'Nordostbahn' over the Rhine a 
little above the Falls (p. 30). The nine arches vary in span (42-66'), 
as it was difficult to obtain a foundation for the piers. The footway 
on the upper side of the bridge affords an interesting view of tbe 
rocky bed of the river, the rapids, and the falls below. 



26 Route 10. LAKE OF CONSTANCE. 

On the left bank a path ascends to the left in 5 min. to ^6tel 
SchloBS Lanfen (ISGO'^, picturesquely situated on a wooded rock 
immediately above the Falls. (Admission 1 fi. ; no other fees.). The 
balcony and a jutting pavilion with stained-glass windows command 
a good survey of the falls, the bridge, and the environs. 

Footpaths descend through the grounds to the chief points of 
view : an iron *Pavilion, the wooden *Kdnzlij and lastly the *FUchetz, 
an iron platform projecting over the foaming abyss. The scene here 
is stupendous. The vast emerald-green volume of water descends 
with a roar like thunder, apparently threatening to overwhelm the 
spectator, and bedewing him with its spray. 

Boats are in readiness here to ferry us across (50 c.) to the 
SchloBBchen Wdrth (^Restaur. ; camera obscura 50 c), on an island 
opposite the Falls, which is connected with the right bank by a 
bridge. This point commands the finest general *Vibw of the Fidls. 
(Boat to the central rock, see above.) We may now return to the 
Neuhausen station or visit the Schweizerhof. To the W. of the 
hotel is the Fi«cA«rA67«2i, with shady grounds and picturesque views. 
Or we may follow the road on the right bank, ascending the river 
(past a bench commanding a splendid •View) to the Laufen Iron- 
works, where a stone parapet near the sluices affords another good 
survey of the Falls. The road thence to the left ascends through 
the village of Neuhausen to the station (see above). 

10. From FriedrichsliafeiL to Constance. Lake of 

Constance. 

Steamboat four times daily in summer (twice direct, in i^/r-i^/i hr.; 
twice via Meersbui^ in 2 hrs.). Between the chief places on the lake, 
FriedrieTishafen^ Lindau^ Bregent^ Rorschach ^ Bomaruhorny Conttanee, 
Meersburffy Ueberlinffen, and Ludieig^a/en ^ the steamera (about 26 in 
number) ply at least once daily, and on the chief routes (Friedrichshafen- 
Constance IV'2 hr., Friedrichshafen - Bomanshom 1 hr., FriedrichBhafen- 
Rorschach IV4 hr., Borschach-Lindau iVihr., Constance-Lindau 2Vs hrs.) 
3-4 times daily. Good restaurants on board. The lake being neutral, 
luggage is liable to custom-house examination on arriving in Germany or 
Austria from Switzerland, and nominally in the reverse case also. Passengers 
from one German port to another may avoid these formalities by obtaining 
on embarcation a custom-house ticket for their luggage, which will be 
delivered to them free of charge on their arrival. 

The Lake of Gonatance (1306'; Ger. Bodensee^ Lat. Locus BrigaiUinut)y 
an immense reservoir of the Rhine, 210 sq. H. in area, is, from Bregenz 
to the influx of the Stockach, 40 M. long, about TVs M. wide, and between 
Friedrichshafen and Utweil 836' deep. The water is of a light green colour. 
The N.£. banks are in general flat, but are bounded on the S.W. by beau- 
tiful wooded hills, which gradually decrease in height towards Constance. 
In beauty of scenery the Bodensee cannot vie with the other Swiss lakes; 
but its broad expanse of water, its picturesque banks, and green hills, 
the chain of the Appenzell Alps in the distance, the snow-clad Sentis in 
particular, and several snow-peaks of the Vorarlberg Alps, visible in clear 
weather, combine to present a very pleasing scene. The lake is bounded 
by three different states : Germany (Baden , Wurtemberg , and Bavaria), 
Austria (Vorarlberg), and Switzerland (St. Gallen and Thurgau). The best 



CONSTANCE. 10. Route. 27 

%di are '^F^tchen" and trout, and the "best wine grown on the banks is the 
*Meer$hwger\ 

FriedriehslLafeii (*Konig v. Wurttembergy 7 min. N. of the stat. ; 
*Deut8che8 Bau3, near the lake and station, good cuisine, moderate ; 
•JTrofif, with a garden on the lake; Sonne; Adler ; ^RaucVs 
Sest(n£r.)j the S. terminns of the Wurtemberg Railway (to Stutt- 
gart 6-7V2 hrs.), is a busy place in summer. Its lake-baths attract 
many visitors, especially from Swabia, and it boasts of a KurhaUe 
with pleasant grounds on the lake. The royal Schloss contains pic- 
tures by Gegenbaur , Pflug, and other modem "Wurtemberg artists ; 
a pavilion in the garden commands a charming view of the lake 
and the Alps. The historical and other collections of the Bodensee- 
Verein in the former Bellevue Hotel deserve a visit. The Harbour 

with its Lighthouse is 1 M. from the railway-station. 

Travellers about to continue their journey by steamer may keep their 
seats until the train reaches the quay. Those arriving by steamer may 
procure tickets immediately on landing, and step into the train at once. 

A trip on the clear pale-green lake is generally very enjoyable, 
but in rough weather sea-sickness is sometimes experienced. On 
the N. bank are the village of Immenstaad^ the chateaux of Herrs- 
herg and Kirchberg; then the village of Hagnau. On the N.W. arm 
of the lake, the XJeberlinger See^ we next observe the picturesque 
little town of Meersburg ; then the island of Mainau (p. 29), and in 
the distance XJeberlingen. The steamer passes the promontory which 
separates the XJeberlinger See from the bay of Constance, and 
reaches Constance in 1^2 ^^• 

Coil8tftnC6. — *Insbl-H6tsl (PL a), formerly a Dominican monastery 
(p. 28), with a garden, B., L. £ A. 3 m. 20, B. 1 m. 20 pf., D. 3 m. 50 pf. \ 
*KoNSTAKzsB Ho? (PI. b), ou the If. bank of the lake, with extensive 
grounds, lake-baths, etc., B., L. & A. 4 m. 20, D. SVs, pension from 6^/2 m. 
(fine view from both these hotels); *Hkcht (PI. d), R., L. & A. 3, B. 1, 
D. 3 m.; *HdTBL Halm (PI. c), opposite the railway-station, B. & A. 272, 
B. 1 m. ; ^Badischbb Hof (PI. f); Kbone (PI. g), Ankeb, Schifp, ^'Bab- 
BAKOSSA, ^Booak, and *'Falkb, second class. — Ccif4 Maximilian^ Bahnhofs- 
Str. ; Schnetzer^ in the market. — Baf?is in the lake, well fitted up (bath 
40 pf.). 

Constance (1335'; pop. 14,800), a free town of the Empire 
down to 1548, after the Reformation subject to Austria, and since 
the Peace of Pressburg in 1805 a town of Baden, lies at the N.W. 
end of the Lake of Constance, at the efflux of the Rhine. The epis- 
copal see, founded in 781 , and held by 87 bishops in succession, 
was deprived of its temporalities in 1802, and suppressed in 1827. 

The *Cathbdiial (PI. 4), founded in 1052, once a cruciform 
Romanesque edifice , was rebuilt in its present form at the be- 
ginning of the 16th century. The Gothic tower, designed by Hiibsch, 
was erected in 1850-57; the open spire has a platform on each 
side, which commands an excellent survey of the town and lake. 

biTZBXOB. On the doors of the chief portal are *Reliefs in 20 sections, 
from the life of Christ, carved in oak by Simon Haider in 1470. * Choir- 
stalls, with satirical sculptures, of the same date. The organ-loft was 
enriched in the Renaissance style in 1680. In the nave, which is borne by 
16 monolith columns (2& high, 3' thick), sixteen paces from the entrance. 



28 Route 10, CONSTANCE. 

is a large stone slab, with a white spot which always remains dry when 
the rest is damp. On this spot Huss is said to have stood on 6th July, 
1415, when the Council sentenced him to be burnt at the stake. The N. 
chapel adjoining the choir contains a *Death of the Virgin, in stone, date 
1460. In the left aisle is the monument of J. H. v. Wesset^erg (see below). 

The Tbeardkt (verger Vz-l in.) contains missals of 1426 with miniatures. 
On the E. side of the church is a Cbtpt, containing the Chapel of the Se- 
pulchre, a representation of the Holy Sepulchre in stone, 20^ high (13th 
cent.). Adjoining the church on the N. stand two sides of the once hand> 
some ^Cloistess. 

The Wessbnbebg-Haus (PI. 15), once the residence of the 
benevolent Hr. v. Wessenberg (d. Io60), who for many years was 
the administrator of the bishopric, contains a collection of pictures, 
engravings (daily, 9-12 and 2-5), and books (Mon., Wed., and 
Sat. 2-4, Sun. 11-12), bequeathed by him to the town. 

The late-Gothic church of St. Stephen (PI. 6), of the 15th cent., 
with its slender tower , but disfigured externally, contains inter- 
esting sculptures in wood and stone. 

The Wessenberg-Str. leads hence to the Obere Markt^ at the 
corner of which is the house ^Zum Hohen Haftrik (PI. 2), where, 
according to the modern inscription, Frederick, Burgrave of Nurem- 
berg, was invested with the March of Brandenburg by Emp. Sigis- 
mund on 18th April, 1417. Adjacent is an old house (now the 
Cafe Barbaros8a)y styled by the inscription Curia Pacis^ in which 
Emp. Frederick I. concluded peace with the Lombard towns in 
1183. — A little to the W. is the new Prot. Church (PI. 5). 

The Stadt-Kanzlei , or Town Hall (PI. 12), erected in 1593 
in the Renaissance style, and recently embellished on the facade 
with frescos relating to the history of Constance, contains the Muni- 
cipal Archives in the lower rooms (2800 charters , chiefly from the 
Reformation period). Handsome inner court. — Opposite at Sar- 
tori's bookshop M. Vincent's interesting collection of stained glass 
is now partly exhibited. — In the market-place stands a Wingless 
Victory J by Baur (PI. 10), erected in memory of the war of 1870-71. 

The Rosgabtbn (PI. 8) , the old guild-house of the butchers, 
contains the *Ro8garten- Museum j a fine collection of antiquities of 
Constance and natural history specimens (adm. 40 pf.). 

The Kaufhaus (PI. 1) on the lake, erected in 1388, contains 
the large hall, 52 yds. long, 35 yds. wide, and borne by ten mass- 
ive oaken pillars, where the conclave of cardinals met at the time 
of the Great Council (1414-18). The hall has lately been restored 
and adorned with *Frescos by Pecht and Schworer from the history 
of the town (adm. 20 pf.). Upstairs a collection of Indian and 
Chinese curiosities, the property of the castellan (40 pf.). 

The Dominican Monasteby in which Huss was confined, on 
an island, has been partly converted into a hotel ('Insel-HoteV, 
p. 27). The well-preserved Romanesque cloisters and the finely 
vaulted dining-room (formerly the church) are worthy of a visit. 

Pleasant promenade in the Stadtgarten (PI. C, 3,4) on the lake, 
yith a marble bust of Emp. William and charming view. 



KREUZLINGEN. 11. Route. 29 

The house in which Huss was arrested, in the Hussenstrasse 
near the Schnetzthor (PL A, 5), is indicated by a tablet with a por- 
trait of the reformer in relief, put up in 1878. Adjoining it is an 
old relief, of 1415, with derisive verses. Some houses farther on, at 
the *Obere Laube', a bronze tablet with inscription designs the spot 
where Jerome of Prague was imprisoned in 1415-16. In the BrCW, 
to the W. of the town, 1/2 M. from the Prot. Church (p. 28), a large 
hoalder with inscriptions marks the spot where the illustrious 

reformer and Jerome of Prague suffered martyrdom. 

Fine view of the lake and the Vorarlberg and Appensell Alps from 
the *Allmannthbhe ('/4 hr.), with belvedere (refreshm.), 5 min. above the 
village of Allmannsd'orf^ on the road to the Hainan. — Pleasant walks to 
the LoTBtto- Kapelle (1/2 hr.); the Jacobs a restaurant with a fine view 
0/z hr.); and the Kltine Rigi^ above Miinaterlingen (Inn; 1 hr.)- 

In the N. W. arm of the Lake of Constance {Ueherlinger See, p. 23), 
41/2 H. from Constance, lies the pretty island of ^Mainan, formerly the seat 
of a commandery of the Teutonic order, as is indicated by a cross on the 
S. side of the chateau, which was built in 1746. The island, U/-z H. in 
circumference, is connected with the mainland by an iron bridge 650 paces 
long. Since 1863 it has been the property of the Grand Duke of Baden, and 
is laid out in pleasure-grounds. Steamboat from Constance in 55 min. ; 
sm^l boat (a pleasant trip of 1 hr.) 5 m. and gratuity ; carriage and pair (in 
Vs hr.) 8 m. ; walkers take a shorter route, partly through pleasant woods 
(1 hr.). 

11. From Eorschach by Constance to Winterthur 

(Zurich) . 

Comp. Maps, pp. 26^ 32. 

60 M. Railway (Nordoathahn) in 4V4-53/4 hrs. (fares 9 fr. 90, 6 fr. 95, 
fr. 86 c). 

Borfchachf see p. 48. The line skirts the lake of Constance, 
of wMeh it affords pretty glimpses. Rising conspicuously above the 
woods on the N. bank is Heiligenberg (1066' above the lake), a 
chate&n of Prince FiiYstenberg. Stations Horn (p. 49), Arbon 
(*Bar; Engel; Kreuz), a small town on the site of the Roman 
Arbor Felix. — 71/2 M. Egnach. 

9 M. Somaxtflhom, see p. 46 ; the station is close to the steam- 
boat pier. 12 M. Uttvyyl; 13 M. Kesswyl (Bar; Pens. Seethal), 
well-to-do villages. To the right, on the lake, the Moosburg is 
visible. — 95 M. Outtingenj with a chateau ; 16 M. Altnau ; I8Y2 M. 
Munsterlir^ger^y formerly a Benedictine abbey, now a lunatic asylum. 
— 21 M, Kreuzlingen (^Helvetia; Lbwe)^ a pleasant little town 
with the old Augustinian abbey of that name, at present a seminary 
for teachers. The church contains a curious piece of wood-carving 
of the 18th cent., with about 1000 small figures. 

22 M. Coxurtance (a terminus station), see p. 27. The train 
backs out and runs towards the W. through a fertile district. 23 M. 
Emmishofen^EgtUhofen^ 25 M. Tctgerweilen^ thriving villages; 
on the Rhine, to the right, Qottlieben (p. 24). Near (28 M.) 
Ermatlngen (*H6t. Seefeld, with pleasant grounds, baths eto., pens. 



30 BouU12. DACHSEN. 

from 5 fi. ; AdUr ; Krone) we approach the green Vnttrstt, which 
we now skirt. Charming views ; in the distance to the N.W., rise 
the peaks of the Hohgau (p. 24). Near Ermatingen, on the height 
to the left, are the chateaux of Wolfsberg and Hard ; then Aretha- 
berg (p. 24), and near (28^/2 M.) Mannenbtich the handsome 8alen~ 
stein (comp. p. 24). To the right, in the lake, the large island of 
Reichenau (p. 23); on the left, Schlosa Eugens^erg (p. 24). At 
(30^2 ^0 Berlingen the Untersee attains its greatest width (5 M.), 
after which it divides into two hranches. 

32 M. Bteckborn (*Lowe ; Krone ; Sonne) j a small town with 
a castellated 'Kaufhaus', lately restored. Below it, on the right, 
the iron-foundry of Feldbach, once a nunnery. On the right, 
farther on , the mansion of Olarisegg ; to the left , in the wood, 
the ruin of Neuburg. On the opposite (N.) hank are Wangen and 
the hydropathic establishment of Marbach (p. 24). 

36 M. Mammem (Ochs, at the station), with a chateau, used as 
a *Hydropathic Estab. (pension). Then, on the right hank, Ober-- 
staad, and on the hill the abbey of Oehningen (p. 24). At (37 M.^ 
Esehenz the Untersee again narrows into the Rhine (p. 24). We 
follow the left bank to the station for (39 M.) Stein (*8onney 
Schwan)^ on the right bank, commanded by the castle of Hohen- 
klingen ; and then turn to the left to (41 M.) Etzweileny the junc- 
tion for Singen (p. 23). 

On the left, as we proceed to the S., is the vine-clad and 
wooded Stammheimer Berg (1716'). 43^2 M. Stammheim , a large 
village; 481/2 M. Ossingen. We now cross the Thur by a bold iron 
bridge, 148 high, borne by seven iron buttresses. Stations Thal- 
heim'Altikon^ Dynhard, Seuzach^ and Oberwinterthurj a small town 
with an old Romanesque church (tower modern), the Roman Vtto- 
durum (p. 45). 

60 M. Winterthur and thence to (76^2 M.) Zurich see p. 45. 

12. From Schaffhaasen to Zurich. 

Comp, MapSy pp. 22, 36. 

35 M. Railway (Nordotthahn) in 2 bra.: to Winterthur 1 hr., to Zurich 
1 hr. (fares 6 fr., 4 fr. 20 c, 3 fr.). Views on the rigtU. 

Schaffhausen , see p. 22. The Une skirts the lofty Fasenstaub 
Promenade (p. 23), and passes below the villa Charlottenfels (p. 22). 
On the right, high above, is the Waldshut railway (p. 22), which 
passes through a tunnel under Charlottenfels. Immediately beyond 
a long cutting we cross the Rheinfallbriicke (see p. 25), obtaining 
a glimpse of the falls to the right, and enter a tunnel, 71 yds. long, 
under Schloss Laufen (p. 25). On emerging, and looking back to 
the right, we obtain another beautiful glanoe at the falls. 

3 M. Dachsen (1296'; B6tel Witzig) lies 1 M. to the S. of 
Schloss Laufen (comp. p. 26). As the train proceeds, it affords pleas- 



ZURICH. 13, Route. 31 

ing views at intervals of the bluish-green Rhine in its deep and nar- 
row channel, enclosed by wooded banks. 

51/2 M. Marihalen. The valley of (10 1/2 M.) Andelflngen (1298' ; 
Uwe) soon begins to open, and that thriving village appears in the 
distance to the right, on the steep bank of the Thur, We approach it 
by a wide curve, and cross the Thur above the village by an iron 
bridge IIB' high. We then skirt the river for a short distance, and 
reach Andelflngen on the S. side. The site of the station has been 
excavated in an ancient moraine. 

The route is now less interesting. Stations Henggart, JSettUngen, 
The vine-clad slopes of Neftenbaeh, to the right, produce the best 
wines in N. Switzerland, the finest of which is QalUnspitt. Near 
Winterthur the broad valley of the Toss is entered. 

19 M. Winterthur, and thence to (35 M.) Zurich, see p. 45. 

18. Zurich and the ITetliberg. 

Hotels. ^HoTBL Baub au Lag (PI. a ^ 0, 4), with a gardenp. on the lake, 
and delightful view, R., L., & A. 5-6, lunch aVaj D- 6 fr. ;>%sllbvuk (PI. 
b; D, 5), on the lake, with fine view, R. , L., & A. 41/2-5 fr. ; •Victoria 
(PI. g; G, 3), R., L., A A. 4-5, D. 3V« fr. , National (PI. n-, G, 4), same 
charges, *H6tel Habis (PI. o 5 G, 3), R. dc L. 31/2 fr. (with good restaur.), 
these three at the station; ^Schwb&t (PI. d; E, 5), by the lower bridge, 
with view of the Alps, R. & L. 3, D. 3-3V2 fr. \ •HdiEL Baub-Stadt (PI. c; 
D, 4), R., L., & A. from 8, D. 4fr.; "Zubicheb Hof (PL e; D, 6), R., L., 
4 A. 3V2, D. 372 fr.5 *Stobch (PL f; E, 5), commercial; *St. Gotthard 
(PL q I G, 4) and 'Wanneb's Hotel (PL s ; F, 4), Bahnhofs-Str.; Batbischee 
HoF (PL p; G, ^ and ^Stadthop (PL u \ G, 4), both near the station, moder- 
ate; *H6t. Gentbal (PL i; G, 5), on the right bank of the Limmat, near 
the station; *Schweizebhof (PL h ; F, 5j, R. & A. 2V2, 1>., incL wine, 3V2 fr., 
and •LiMMATHOF (PL t ; G , 5) , on the Limmatquai ; Rothes Haus , and 
Seehop (PL 1; D, 5), on the Sonnenquai; "'Schwabzbr Adlbb (R. & A. 
172 fr.), "^Somnb, Kbomb, Hibsoh, Lamm, L6wb, etc., unpretending. Visitors 
are received at all these hotels en pension, the charges being reduced in 
spring and autumn. — *Pen8ion Neptun at Seefeld, near Zurich, 6-7 fr.; 
near it, *'Wbi8Sks Kbeuz and Pension Hauseb; ^Gyqme, Miihlenbach-Str., 
quiet, with garden, 7 fr. ; Karolinenbubq and Fobstbb, at Fluntem^ V/2 M. 
to the E. of Zurich. The Buegli Tbbbace and Waid , see below. The 
'Uetlibebo, see p. 36. 

RestaunuQta and Cafes. *Rail. Restaurant ; Caf4t NatUmal, St. QoUhard^ 
and Hdbis, all at the station; Baurf Centraly Gentralhof; *Vafi zur Meise 
(restaurant), by the Mtinsterbrucke. On the right bank: Kronenhalle, 
above the Zuricherhof, D, 1^/2-2 fr.; Tonhalle (see below), on the lake, D. 
(11 to 2) 3 fr.; 8affran, opposite the Rathhaus ; PhOnix, near the Polytechnic. 

— Ices. Spriingli, Parade-Platz; Boui^y, Untere Eirchgasse, on the Son- 
nenquai. — Beer. Cafi Orsini, Frau-Miinsterplatz, behind the Hotel Baur; 
Gom6rt»t«, Schofelgasse ; Stadtkeller, behind the Limmathof; MetegerWdu, 
Beatengasse; TTanner, Bahnhof-Str. ; 5oWer, on the quay; WeUhaar, Stein- 
gaose; Ca/i de Paris; Blaue Fahne; Meierei, etc.; also at the above caf^s. 

— Wine. Valtellina wine at the Veltlinerhalle. Italian wines: FratelU 
Dorta, in the Eiermarkt. 

Popular Beaorts. '* Tonhalle (PL 20) on the lake, with an open pavilion 
and restaurant; concerts every evening in summer (60 c). Zur Platte, 
winter - garden, adjoining the Polytechnic (theatre in summer). *Biirgli 
Terrace, Va M. to the 8.W., on the road to the Uetliberg (p. 36). The 
*Waid on the Kaferberg, 3 M. to the N.W. of the town. The *Sonnenberg, 
OB the slope of the ZUricKberg, above Hottingen. The *' Uetliberg is the 



32 RouU 13. ZURICH. Situation. 

finest point in the environs (by railway in V? hr. ; see p. 86). -— Informa- 
tion as to excursions, objects of interest, etc., may be obtained at the 
Offiziellei Yerkehn- Bureau, on the ground-floor of the Exchange buildings. 

Baths in the lake near the Quaibriicke, at the suburb of Enge, and 
in the Limmat below the Bauschanee. At the S. end of the town, on the 
E. bank of the lake, are the NeumantUr Batlu. — Warm Bathi (vapour, 
etc.) at the Werdmuhh BatJu, in the Bahnhofs-Str., and at Stoeker^s, in 
the Miihlgarten. 

Bowiafr-boats for 1-2 pers. 50c. per honr; for 3 or more pers. 20 c. 
each per hour; each rower 60c. per hour. 

Steamboats (see p. 37) start below the Tonhalle and at the Stadt- 
hausquai. 

Railway Stations. Central Stixtion at the lower (K.) end of the town, 
*/4 M. from the lake (omnibus 75, each box 20 c). — The Bnge Slaiion^ 
on the left bank of the lake (p. 40), is convenient for the hotels on the 
lake. — Uetliberg Station^ at Selnau (PI. D, 1, 2 ; see p. 36). 

Tramway from the Central Station through the Bahnhofs-Str. to the 
suburb of Snge , across the Bahnhofbriicke and by the Limmatquai and 
Sonnenquai to Riesbach and Tie/enbrunnen (near Zollikon) , and to the 
cemetery of Aussersihl. 

Post and Telegraph Office (PI. 29^ D, £ 4), Bahnhofs-Strasse ^ branch- 
offices by the museum on the Limmatquai (p. ^) and at the railway-station. 

Cabs. Drive within the town, or not exceeding Vthi'*? 1-2 pers. 80c., 
3-4 pers. Ifr. 20c., each box 20c.; in the evening 10c. extra for the lamps; 
from 10 p.m. to 6 a.m. double fares. For Vs ^'-t ^ ^^- ^ <^* or 2 fr. 20 c; 
?/« hr., 2fr. or 2 fr. 90 c; 1 hr., 2fr. 50 o. or 3fr. 60 c; IV2 hr., 3fr. 50c. 
or 5fr., etc. 

English Church Servioe in the Chapel of Bt, Anna (PI. 15-, E 3). 

Permanent Exhibition, at Biauh A Co't.^ Paradeplatz (gratis). 

Znrioli (1345'; pop. 25,102, or with the suburbs upwards of 
85,000), the Roman Ttin'cum, the capital of the canton, lies at the 
N. end of the lake, on the green and rapid XtmmaiC, which divides it 
into the ^Groase StadC on the right, and the ^Kleine^ on the left 
bank. On the W. side flows the Sihl, an unimportant stream ex- 
cept in spring, which falls into the Limmat below the town. Zurich 
is one of the busiest manufacturing towns in Switzerland, silk and 
cotton being the staple products. (There are 10,000 silk-looms in 
this canton.) At the same time it is the intellectual centre of German 
Switzerland. Its schools are in high repute, having for centuries sent 
forth men of distinction, such as Bodmer, Hottinger, Orelli, Gessner, 
Lavater, Hess, Pestalozzi, Heidegger, Horner, Hirzel, Henry Meyer, 

the friend of Goethe, and many others. 

The Situation of Zubich is very beautiful. Both banks of the clear, 
pale-green lake are enlivened with villages, orchards, and vineyards, scat- 
tered over a highly cultivated country. In the background rise the snow- 
capped Alps :, to the left is the crest of the Olarnischy then the perpendicular 
sides of the Oriesef stock (92(X)'), near it on the right the P/annstoeky and farther 
on, the Drushergy the ice-clad Bi/ertenstock. and the Tddi (the highest of the 
group, the two last rising above the Linththal); in front of these the Cla- 
rideuy with their westernmost point the ^amrnW* toe* (10,610'); between this 
and the double-peaked Scheerhom lies the Ories Glacier; then on the N. 
side of the Schdchenthal the long Rots- Stock Chain with its fantastic peaks-, 
the broad Windgelle; between this and the Scheerhom appears the dark 
summit of the lower Mythe near Schwyz; above the depression between 
the wooded Kaiser stock and the Rossberg towers the pyramidal Bristenstocky 
near Amsteg on the St. Gotthard route •, then, if we occupy a commanding 
position, the Blackenstock and Uri-Rothstock y and part of the snow-moun- 
tains of the Engelberger Thai., appearing above the Albis. To the right 



Hohe Promenade. ZtJRiCH. 13. Route. 33 

risea tbe AlMs, tiie nortbemmOBt point of wUch is the Uetliberffy with the 

hotel on its summit. 

As the beauty of its situation is tbe great attraction of Zurich, our 
walk through tbe town is so planned as to conduct the traveller to tbe 
finest Points of Vibw in the shortest possible time. Ko one should omit 
to Tisit the Terreuse in front of the Polytechnic and the Softe Promenade. 

From the Central Station the BahnliofB-StrasBe, nearly ^/^ M. 
long, leads S. to the lake. It passes on the right, in the Linth- 
E8cher-Platz(Pl. G,3, 4), the Linth-Escher School ; then, on the right, 
the Post Office (PI. 29) and the Credit- Anstatt (PI. 7, facing the 
Parade-Platz) ; on the left the Centralhofy a block of houses with 
tempting shops ; and on the right the Borse (PI. 2). On the lake, 
where extensive quays and other improvements have recently heen 
made, to the left, the handsome ^Quaibracke (PI. C, 5 ; 65' broad), 
constructed in 1882-83 by Holzmann & Benkiser, crosses the Lim- 
mat near its issue from the lake. Below the bridge on the left 
bank of the Limmat, is the Bauschanze (PI. G, D, 5), a small 
pentagonal island ^ith walled sides (formerly a bastion), shaded 
with trees, and connected with the bank by a bridge. Pleasant 
new Promenades, commanding beautiful views of the town, the 
lake, and the Alps, extend along the shor^ of the lake to th^ 
right , as far as the new Winter Harbour near the suburb of Enge. 

On the right bank, we may from the Quaibriicke (leaving on 
the right the TonhaltCj p. 31) either ascend the hill, passing the 
Kronenhalle (to the left is the Swiss exhibition of articles used in 
building, adm. free), or cross the Stadelhofer PlatZj with its tasteful 
fountain, to the *Hohe Promenade (PI. 13), a loftily situated avenue 
of lime-trees. Beautiful view (best by morninglight, see Panorama 
by Keller) from the plateau with the Monument of Nageli (d. 1836 ; 
PI. 10), a favourite vocal composer, erected 'Von den schweizerischen 
S'angervereinen ihrem Vater Nageli'. Adjacent are the old Cemeteries 
(PI. 27 ; entrance on the opposite side adjoining the Gothic Rom. 
Gath. chapel), containing many handsome monuments. 

From the N. end of the Hohe Promenade a road passing the N. side 
of the cemetery leads to the R'amistrasse, ascending which we soon 
reach the Cantonal Sohool (PI. F, 7) on the left, a handsome edifice 
approached by a fine flight of steps on the S.W. side, and compri- 
sing a grammar and an Industrial school. Farther on, to the right, 
are the Cantoruil Hospital (PI. 6), the School of Anatomy and the 
Pathological Institute, and still farther on the School of Forestry and 
Agriculture, and the handsome new Chemical Laboratory, To the left 
on the slope of the hill is an Asylum for the Blind and Dumb (PI. 4) ; 
lower down to the left, the Kimstgeb&nde (*Kiinstler-Giitli' ; PI. 21\ 
containing the Picture Gallery of the Artists' Union (open on Sat. 2-4, 
Sun. 10-12; at other times apply at the restaurant at the back). 

Pictures by the older Zurich artists (chiefly portraits): ff. Aspev, J. 
Ammann. S. Ho/mann^ K. Meyer^ atnd others. Millenety Return of the Zxi- 
richers from the battle of Tattwyl ^ Angelica Kauffmann^ Winckelmann \ 
FHisljf^ Portrait of Bodmer^ L. Eess^ Landscapes^ Scheuchxer^ The Fuschcr- 

Baxdekes, Switzerland. 12th Edition. 3 



34 RouU 13, ZCBICH. Polytechnic, 

th&I; Deschwanden, The Maries at the Sepalchre; Steffan^ Mountain tor- 
rent 5 Bosshard, Scenes from the history of Zurich; KolUr, The Engel- 
berger Thai, Midday repose, Autumn evening; Holghalb, The Wetter- 
hom; Didayy At the Handeck, Scene in the Valais; Veillon^ Evening on 
the Lake of Lucerne*, Oirardety The sick child; Anker ^ Pestalozzi; Grob, 
The artist on his travels; Frdhliehery Forest scene in Upper Bavaria; Tobler, 
Wedding in the Amperthal; Corrodi^ Uncle and nieces; Euff. Girardet^ 
Halt in the desert; Stilckelberg^ Charcoal-burner in the Jura; Buchser^ 
Italian pastoral scene; ^Boekliny Spring; Baade^ Sea-pieces; Rigaud^ Por- 
traits ; Tuchbein^ Portrait of Bodmer ; Marie BUenrieder, Portrait of a man. 
Farther on, to the left, is the handsome *Folytechnie (PI. 28), 
designed by (?. Semper (d. 1878), and erected in 1861-64. It is the 
seat of the University of Zurich (founded in 1832; 400 students, 
88 professors and lecturers) and of the federal Polytechnic School 

(founded in 1855; 800 students). 

In the vestibule a marble bust of Semper, by Kissling, was erected in 
188T. On the ground-floor are the Archaeological Collection (casts , Greek 
vases, 'Terracottas from Tanagra, etc.; Sun. 10-12, Tues. and Frid. 2-4); 
on the first floor the Mineralogical and Palaeontological ; on the second floor 
the Zoological Collection (Thurs. 8-12 and 2-6) and the Aula, handsomely 
decorated, with mythological ceiling-paintings by Bin of Paris. Opposite 
the platform is a marble bust of Orelli (d. 1849), the celebrated philologist, 
by Meilli. Splendid view from the balcony. 

The terrace of the Polytechnic commands the finest survey of 
the town. On the right are the St. LeonhardS'Pfrundhaui ('deanery', 
PI. 22), an asylum for the aged poor, and the new Biirgerasyl. 
Lower down, on the Limmat, and opposite the railway-station, lies 
the manufacturing quarter of Ziirich, with the extensive engine- 
works of Etcher, Wyas, ^ Co. (PI. 24), who have constructed most 
of the steamboats which ply on the Swiss and Italian lakes. 

We descend rapidly from the Polytechnic to the S.W. , pass the 
Predigerkirche (PI. F, 5, 6), and reach the Limmatqual by the 
TJntere Brucke (PI. E, 5). On our right is the handsome Fleiach' 
halle, or meat-market (PI. 12), and opposite to it are the Lese- 
Museum (PI. 26 ; introduction by a member) and the substantial 
guild-house Zum Schneggen. Above the bridge is the Bathhaag 
(PI. 30), a massive building of 1699. 

Following the right bank of the Limmat, in which we may note 
the interesting swan-breeding establishment, and crossing theRath- 
haus-Quai, we next come to the MiXnsterhrucke (PI. D, 5). On the 
left of the Rathhaus-Quai is the Riiden^ restored in the German 
Renaissance style, containing the Swiss educational exhibition and 
the Pestalozzi cabinet. Adjoining the bridge is an open vestibule 
leading to the Town Library (PI. 3; apply at the shop in the corner 
to the right), established in an old church (1479), known as the 
Wasserkirche, from its having once stood in the water, and enlarged 
in 1860. It contains many valuable MSS. (open on week-days 9-12 

and 4-6 ; fee 50 c., for a party 1 fr.). 

A letter of Zmngli (see below) to his wife \ Zwingli's Greek Bible with 

Hebrew annotations in his own handwriting \ autograph letter of Henry I V. 

of France and a cast of his features -, three autograph Latin letters of Lady 

"^ane Grey to Antistes BuUinger \ letter of Frederick the Great, dated 1784, 

I Prof. Miiller; Portraits of burgomasters and scholars of Zurich, includ- 



Augusiinian Church. zOrICH. 13. Route. 35 

iag Zwingli; marble bust of Lavattr by Dannecker; marble bust of Pesta- 
lout by Imbof ; eigbt panes of stained glass of 1506. ^Miiller'g Relit/ of part 
of Switzerland, and one of the Engelberger Thai on a much larger scale, 
arc executed with great care and accuracy. 

The same building contains Antiquities (seen daily, 8-12 and 
2-6 , fee 50 c. , Wed. afternoon free) belonging to the Antiquarian 
Society, the most interesting of which are relics from the ancient 
Swiss lake- villages. — On the Sonnenquai, next the Wasserkirche, 
is a bronze Statue of Zwingli (see below), by Natter, erected In 1885. 

The steps opposite the Library lead to the GroflB-M&nster (PI. 18), 

erected in the Romanesque style of the llth-13th centuries. The 

nppec Btories of the towers are Gothic, and in 1799 they were 

crowned with helmet-shaped tops with gilded flowers. On the W. 

tower is enthroned Charlemagne with gilded crown and sword, in 

recognition of donations made by him to the church. The choir 

contains three large modern stained-glass windows representing 

Christ, St. Peter, and St. Paul. — Zwingli was the incumbent of 

this church from 1519 down to his death in 1531 (p. 69). 

On the adjacent site of the residence of the canons now stands the 
TOehtersehule y erected in 1851 in the same style as the church. In the 
interior are Cloisters, of the beginning of the 13th cent., which were 
restored in 1851, and adorned with a statue of Charlemagne. — The 
church and cloisters are open daily in summer from 11 to 12. 

We now cross by the Munsterbriicke to the left bank of the 
Limmat. On the right we pass the Zunfthaus zur Meise (p. 31), 
and on the left the Fran-UunBterkirche (PI. 17), built in the 
middle, of the 13th cent., with a high led-roofed tower. (Beyond 
it, in the Post-Str., is the Oentralhof ; see p. 33.) 

Turning to the right, we cross the Miinsterplatz to the Peters- 
kirehe (PI. 19), with its massive tower and large electric clock 
(with dials 29' in diameter), where Lavaier (d. 1801) was pastor 
for twenty-three years. In the vicinity, in the direction of the 
Bahnhofs-Str. , is the late Gothic Angnstinian Church (PI. 16; 
Old Cath.), which served for three hundred years as a magazine, 
but was again fitted up as a church in 1848, and is now used by 
the *01d Catholics'. Over the side-altars, 'Christ on the Mount of 
Olives' and *The Risen Saviour', good pictures by Deschwandenf 
the high-altar, pulpit, and organ are also excellent. 

Nearly in the centre of the town rises the Lindenhof (PL 23), 
123' above the Limmat, once a Celtic settlement, and afterwards an 
imperial palace. On the S.^. side is the Masonic Lodge. A little 
to the N. are the large House of Correction (PI. 37) and the Or^ 
fnhan Asylum (PI. 35). 

Crossing the Bahnhofs-Str. and following the Pelican-Str. , we 
Teach the Botanic Ghuden (PI. 5), which is well stocked with Alpine 
plants, and contains bronze busts of A. P. de CandoUe (d. 1841) and 
Conrad Gessner (d. 1565), and one in marble of H. Zollinger, a 
Swiss hotanist (d. in Java, 1859). In the garden rises the Eats, a 
bastion of the old fortress, forming a lofty platform planted with trees. 

3* 



36 Route 13. UBTLIBKRG. 

To the £. of the Botanic Garden a bridge crosses the Schanzen- 
graben (the old moat) to the suburb of Selnau, Immediately to the 
left is the Oewerbe-Husenm, containing industrial collections (in- 
cluding a room from a patrician house of the 17th cent, with fine 
entablature and stove). and a permanent exhibition (seen daily, 
8-12 and 2-5, except Mon.). Beyond it, towards the Sihl, is the 
JJetlibahn Station (see below). 

In Atuseraihl, a new artizans' quarter on the left bank of the 
^ihlj is the new Military Depot of Canton Zurich, including barracks 
and an arsenal. The Colleotion of Arms in the arsenal (open on 
week-days 8-12and 1.30-6) consists of battle-axes, halberds, armour, 
^ags, and cross-bows, among which last is one of the many which 
claim to have belonged to Tell. ZwingWs Battle-axe^ taken by the 
Lucerners at Kappel (p. 69), and once kept at Lucerne, was trans- 
ferred hither, after the War of the Separate League in 1847, and is 
now preserved here with his sword, coat of mail, and helmet. — 
In the Grosse Werd^trasse in Ausserslhl is the new Bom. Cath. 
Ohnrch, embellished with good stained glass, and altar-pieces by 

Balmer and Deschwanden. 

The Platzpromenade, an avenue of fine trees, to the 'N. of the railway- 
station, on the banks of the clear and rapid Limmat, affords a cool and 
pleasant walk. In this promenade are the town Aquarium (20 c.) and the 
simple monuments of the idyllic poet Salomon Oessner (d. 1788) and the 
minnesinger Joh. Hadlaub. *It terminates in the ^Platsspitz' (so named 
from the former Schiitzenplatz), a point of land formed by the" junction 
of the Sihl with the Limmat. A bridge crosses the Limmat to the DrcAt- 
sehmiedli^ a beer-garden on the right bank ; and this is also the pleasaatest 
route to the Waid (p. 81 \ in the village, beyond the garden, we turn to 
the right by the post-offfce). 

The TJetliberg. 

Railway to the- top in Vz br. (fare 1st class 3 fr. 50 c, 2nd cl. 2 fr.; 
roturn-ticket , 5 and 3 fr. ; family-tickets for 10 trips up and 10 down, 
available for a year, 20 fr. ■, on Sun. and holidays from 10 a.m. return- 
ticket 2 fr. This line, SV* M. long, with a maximum gradient of 7' in 
lOO*, is constructed in the ordinary way, but, as on the Bigi Railway, the 
locomotives are placed behind the trains. The station is in the suburb 
oi Selnau (see above ^ PI. D, 1,2), not far from the Botanic Garden, on the 
Sihl, V4 hr. from the Central Station and 12 min. from that of Enge (finger- 
posts in the Bahnhofs-Str. and elsewhere). 

The train skirts the Sihl for a short distance and crosses it to 
(5 min.) stat. Wiedikon, where the ascent begins. At first we tra- 
verse an open slope, with a pleasant view of Zilrich and the valley 
of the Limmat, and then enter a wood. (17 min.) Stat. Waldegg, 
The train then describes a long curve on the slope of the hill and 
reaches the terminus. About 5 min. above the station is the large 
*H6t.-Pen8. Vetliberg(R. & A. 4-5, B. IV4, D. 4; pens, from Sept. 
onwards 71/2-^ ^r.), and 3 min. higher, at the top of the hill, is the 
*Re8ta%irant Vto-Kulm. Pleasant shady walks in the woods near 
the hotel. On the S. side, about */4 hr. from the top, on the footpath 
to Zurich , is the *II6tel Vto-Staffel (pens. 5 fr.). 

The *ijetliberg (2864') , the northernmost point of the Aibis 



UETLIBERG. 13. Route. 37 

range, is the finest point in the environs of Zflrich. The view, 
though inferior in grandeur to those from heights nearer the Alps, 
surpasses them in beauty. It embraces the Lake of Zurich and the 
valley of the Limmat; the Alps from the Sentis to the Jungfrau and 
the Stockhorn on the Lake of Thun, with the Rigi and Pilatus in the 
foreground ; to the W. the Jura, from the Ohasseral on the Lake of 
Bienne to its spurs near Aarau, over which appear some of the 
Yosges Mts. ; farther N. are the Feldberg and Belchen in the Black 
Forest, and the volcanic peaks of the Hohgau, Hohentwiel, Hohen- 
howen , and Hohenstoffeln. The Abbey of Muri (9 M. distant), 
with a facade 750' in length, is distinctly seen by morning light 
(p. 20). Baden with its old castle (p. 18) is also prominent. A 
good panorama by Keller. — On the Uto-Kulm is a monument to 
the Zurich statesman Jakob Dubs (d. 1879), consisting of a marble 
obelisk with a bust in relief. 

Walk to the Uetubkkg (2 hrs.). The road leads to the W. throagh 
the subnrb Enge. Where the telegraph-wires diverge to the left, we go 
straight on (to the left is the BUrgli, p. 31). After 1 H. (from the Hdtel 
Baur) we cross the Sihl, turn to the left in the direction of the mountain, 
and reach (>/4 H.) the Mbisgiitli (tavern ■, cab to this point 2-3 fr.). We 
now turn to the right and ascend by a well-trodden path winding some- 
what steeply up the valley, to the Hdtel Uto-Btaffel (see p. 36), on the 
brow of the hill, where a view of the Bigi, Pilatus, and the Bernese 
Alps is disclosed. Near the inn is an inscription to the memory of F. von 
DurleTy who lost his life here in 1840. To the summit 20 min. more. 

Fbox the Ubtlibebg to the Albis-Hocbwaght, a beautiful walk of 
3 hrs., ascending and descending on the Albis range, and chiefly through 
wood. A few minutes' walk beyond the Hotel Uto-Staffel (see p. 36) we 
keep to the right where the path divides (finger-post), and follow a good 
path, which is even practicable for carriages, skirting the crest of the 
mountain. Fine view from the Felsenegg (Restaur. ; finger-post). To the 
left is the ravine of the Sihl, beyond it . the blue lake with its thousand 
glittering dwellings, to the right the pretty Tiirler See, and farther distant 
a fertile hilly tract, with the Alps towering in the distance. — We obtain 
the finest view shortly before reaching (2V2 hrs.) Ober-Albis (2602' 5 Inn). 
From the Hochtoaeht (3012'), V2 br. to the S., a good forest-path leads to 
the E. (finger-post) to the forester's house of Unier-Sihlwald (good quarters) 
on the Sihl, and to (1 V4 hr.) Horgen (p. 38) \ while to the W. a road leads 
past the small Tiirler See to (3 H.) Hatuen (p. 69). 

14. From Ziirich to Coire. Lakes of Ziirich and 

Walenstadt. 

Comp. Mapsy pp. 50, 68. 

79 M. Railway to Coire by Wallisellen, Rapperswyl, Wesen, and Sar- 
gans in 3»/4-4»/4 hrs. (12 fr. 45, 8fr. 75, 6fr. 25 c.). The train does not ap- 
proach the Lake of Zurich till it reaches Rapperswyl. — Railway on the 
Left (S.) Bank from Zurich to Richterswyl and Glarus : to Ziegelbriicke 
(p. 42, junction for Wesen) 36 M., in IV2-2 hrs. (6 fr. 5, 4fr. 25, 3fr. 5c.)i 
to Glarus, 43 M., in 2-2V« brs. (7 fr. 20, 5 fr. 5, 3 fr. 60 c). Comp. R. 19. 

Steamboat, preferable to the railway, on the right (N.) bank to Rap- 
perswyl 7 times daily in 2V4 hrs. (2 fr. 50 or 1 fr. 80 c). Smaller steamers 
ply between the N. and S. banks. Steamboat on the left (S.) bank to 
Ho^en 4-5 times daily in I-IV4 br., to Richterswyl twice in 2 hrs. 

The ♦Lake ofZurieh(1342'),25M. long, 2V2M. broad at its widest 



38 BouU 14. 



LAKE OF ZURICH. 



From Zurich 



part, and 470' deep, is fed by tbe Linth and drained by the Limmat. 
Its scenery, though with no pretension to grandeur, is scarcely 
equalled in beauty by that of any other Swiss lake. The banks rise 
in gentle slopes, at the base of which are meadows and arable land ; 
above these is a belt of vineyards and orchards, and on the £. side 
the hills, here about 2500' high, are wooded. Being sprinkled for 
a long distance with houses, villages, and manufactories, the banks 
are sometimes not unaptly termed the suburbs of Zurich, In the 
background a long chain of snow^clad Alps (see p. 32). 



i. Steamboat Janmey. 



Left (W. & S.) Bank. 
The steamer passes the suburb 
of Enge. On the right rises the 
long ridge of the Albis ; before 
us in the distance tower the Alps 
of Uri and Glarus. WoUiahofenj 
prettily situated, is the first sta- 
tion. The next (24 min. from 
Ziirich), Bendlikon (L5we), be- 
longing to the parish of iTiYcAftcrgr, 
which lies on the hill above. A- 
bove Stat. RuschLikon is the rustic 
Nidelbad (1 M. by the road), with 
a chalybeate spring and charming 
walks. Stat. Ludretikon (Krone, 
rustic). Then — 

(3/4 hr.) Thalwyl (^Adler, by 
the church, 1 M. from the lake), 
a large village, charmingly situat- 
ed. *View of the lake from the 
church, or better from the tower. 
Stat. Oberrieden ; then — 

(1-11/4 hr.) Horgen (pop. 
526o ; Schwan ; ^Lowe ; Schutzen- 
fiauSj a caf^ on the lake), with 
handsome houses chiefly belong- 
ing to the silk manufacturers, 
pleasantly situated amidst vine- 
yards and orchards. 

About 172 M. above it is the Kur- 
haus Bocken (p. 70). The *Zimmerberg 
(1 hr.). see p. 70. — To Zug diligence 
daily in 2V2 hrs., see p. 70. 

The picturesque peninsula of 

AUf with its orchards and mea- 

iws, projects far into tbe lake 



Right (E. & N.) Bank. 

First station, Neumunsterj a 
suburb of Zurich, with a hand- 
some church loftily situated. Then 
ZoUikonj Ooldbach, and (^2 ^'< 
from Zurich) Knsnacht (*Sonne), 
with a seminary for teachers. 

Erlenbach , beautifully situa- 
ted. Between Herrliberg, and Thal- 
wyl is the deepest part of the lake 
(4709. Stations Fe/dmeUen and — 

Meilen (Lbwt; Sonne) ^ a 
large village with an old church, 
at the foot of the Pfannenstiel. 

The Pfannenstiel {Okenshdhe, 
2418'), to which a good path ascends 
from Meilen in 1 hr., affords a charm- 
ing -view of the lakes of Zurich and 
Greifen and of the Alps from Sentis to 
Pilatus (panorama by Keller). Monu- 
ment to L. Oken (d. 1851), a famous 
naturalist, and an inn at the top. 
Panorama by Keller. 

At ObermtUen the first dis- 
covery of lake - dwellings was 
made in 1854. Stations Vetikon, 
A/annedor/" (Wilder Mann), and — 

St&fa (pop. 3874; Sontht; 
Rossli ; Restaur. zumSeethaly with 
garden), the largest village on 
the N. bank and noted for the 
prominent part it has always 
taken in all national movements. 

Near Stafa the lake attains its 
greatest breadth (272 M.). Fine 
view of the S. bank. Stations 
Kehlhofj Uerikon, Schirmensee 
(Rossli). On the right are the 



to Coire, 



LAKE OF ZURICH. 



14, RouU, 39 



Lbit (W. a S.) BAm. 
oo the S. bank (Hotel , pension 
5fr.). To the E., in the back- 
ground, rises the Speei (p. 42); 
to the left of it the Sentis, beyond 
which tower the Toggenburg Mts . ; 
to the light, above the lake, the 
wooded Hohe Rhonen (40429, and 
farther distant the mountains of 
Glarus (comp. Keller's panorama). 

(2 hrs.) Wadeiuwyl (1348' ; 
pop. 6206; *Engelj facing the 
quay, R. 1V2-2V2» B- !> pens. 
5 fr. ; Hotel duLac)is the largest 
village on the lake. 

Railway to Einsiedeln^ see p. 92. 
—Diligence twice daily in Ihr. 40 min. 
via Behoenenberg to the whey-cure 
resort of Hiitten (2428' ^ Bar; Oretu), 
prettily situated above a small lake. 

In a few minutes more the 

steamer reaches Bichtergwyl 

(pop. 3557; *Drei Konige, or 

Post; *Engel')j the last station on 

the S. bank. 

To SCHINDELLBOI (p. 92) S^^ M., 

by (IH.) WoUerau (21/4 M. to the E. is 
the prettily situated KurJuHU Fetuis- 
^g). The nearer footpath (55 min.) 
ascends to the right by the apothe- 
cary's at the end of Eichterswyl, 
crossing the road several times and 
affording fine retrospects. By a large 
wahiut-tree at the top of the first hill 
we take the narrow path to the right. 
The * Oottschallenberg (37437 
n»ay be reached from Richterswyl by 
the Stermchanze and the Zittersttg in 
2Va hrs. \ comp. p. 92. 



Right (£. & N.) Bank. 

small flat islands of Lutzelau and 

UfnaUy in front of the wooded 

heights of the Etzel. 

U/nau^ the property of the abbey 
of Einsiedeln, contains a farm-house, 
and a church and chapel consecrated 
in 1141. Ulrich von HutteUy the re- 
former, one of the boldest and most 
independent men of his time, sought 
refuge here when pursued by his 
enemies in 1523, and died a fortnight 
after his arrival, at the ase of 36. His 
remains repose in the little church- 
yard, but the exact spot is unknown. 

BapperBwyl (pop. 2637 ; 
*Cygne, on the lake, R. 1V2-2, 
pens. 6'7fr. ; *H6ielduLcui, R., 
L., & A. 31/2 fr* ; Poatej at the 
station , with garden ; *Freihof)y 
a picturesquely situated town, 
lies at the foot of the Lmdenhofy 
a hill planted with limes (fine 
view), on which rises a black 
marble column with the Polish 
eagle, erected in memory of the 
beginning of the hundred years* 
struggle of the Poles for indepen- 
dence. The old SehlosSy restored 
in 1871, contains the Polish JVa- 
tional Museum^ founded by Count 
R. Plater (adm. 1 fr. ; splendid 
view from the tower). The Parish 
Churchy re-erected since a Are in 
1881, contains valuable sacred 
vessels. Fine altar-pieces in the 
Capuchin monastery. 



In 1878 the old wooden bridge between Rapperswyl and Hurden was 
replaced by the ''Seedamm, a viaduct 1024 yds. in length and 12 yds. in 
width. Near the N. end are two iron bridges, each 47V« yds. long, and near 
the 8. end a third, 95 yds. in length. There are also twenty other open- 
ings, each 10 yds. wide, and a swing-bridge 15V2 yds. long, for the passage 
of vessels. The Railway (from Rapperswyl to Pfaffikon, 3 M., in 1() min.), 
the high-road, and a footway protected by a railing, cross the lake by 
means of this embankment. A walk upon it is recommended for the sake 
of the view. About 20 yds. below it, near the 8. bank, rises the Drei- 
^dertteiny an obelisk 33' in height, marking the convergence of the 
houndaries of the cantons of Zurich, Schwyz, and St. (fallen, and bearing 
the arms of each. 

On the upper part of the lake, which is grander and less thickly 
peopled than the lower, the steamboats have ceased to ply. 



■«w 



40 BouU 14. WAGGITHAL. From Zurich 

ii. Sailway on the Left (S.) Bank from Zfirich. to Ziegelbracke 

(and Glami). 

The train describes a wide curve roTind the town , crossing the 
Sihl twice, passes under the Uetliberg line, and at (3 M.) Enge 
(p. 32) approaches the lake, which it skirts all the way to Lachen, 
affording beautiful views to the left. Stations Wollishofeny Bendli- 
kon-Kilchberg, Riiscfdileonj Thalwyl (all described above), Oberrie^ 
den, and (11 M.) Horgen (p. 38). The peninsula of Au (station) 
lies to the left. 15^2 M. Wadenswyl (railway to Einsiedeln, see 
p. 92); 171/2 M. Bichterswyl. The lake attains its greatest width 
here (2^2 M.). Towards the E. rise the mountains of the Toggen- 
burg and Appenzell. To the left, farther on, are the Islands of 
Ufnau and Lutzelau (p. 39). 21 M. Pfdfftkon (H6t. Hofe); railway 
across the lake to Rapperswyl , see above. To the right , on the 
slope above Altendorf, are the pilgrimage-chapel of 8t. Johann and 
the Johannisburg Restaurant (pens. 4-5 fr.). At (25 M.) Lachen 
{*0ch8j moderate) the train quits the lake. About 2 M. to the £. is 
the small Bad NuoUn. Near (27'/2M.) Siebnen-Wangen we cross 
the Wdggithaler Aa (see below). 

Wftggithal. The road (omnibus from stat. Siebenen to the Eurhaus 
in 272 hrs.) follows the left bank of the deep channel of the Aa to (4 M.) 
Vorder-Wdggithal (2400'), pleasantly situated in a green basin. It then 
leads through the defile of Stockerli^ between the Oroise Auberg (5584') 
on the right and the Ougelberg (3780') on the left, to (4 M.) Hinter- 
W&ggithaly or Innerthal (3800'), 'A M. beyond which we reach the 'Kur- 
haus of that name (pens. 5'/2-6 fr.) with excellent drinking water, suitable 
for a prolonged stay. Pleasant excursions to the Au (20 min.); £. to the 
FldschenlochqueUe ('/'4 hr.); to the Aaberli-Alp (3616'), Va hr.; Hohfidtchen- 
Alp (4726'), IV2 br. — The Grosse Auberg (5584'), ascended by the Barlauv- 
Alp in 3 hrs., and the Fluhberg, or Diethelm (GSlS% by the FlUschli-Alp in 
4 hrs., are good points of view and present no difficulty (guide desirable). 
— From Innerthal to the Kldnthal a pleasant route (bridle-path ; to Bichisau 
4 hrs. ; guide unnecessary). Skirting the ^lo&och , the path ascends, past 
the Aabem-Alp (3566') and the Ober-A^ (5060'), to the (2 hrs.) Karrmegg, 
or Sehweinalp-Pasa (5150'), and then descends by the BrUiehrAlp and the 
Bchwein-Alp to C2 hrs.) RichUau (p. 64). 

We now traverse a somewhat marshy plain to (31 M.) Reiehen^ 
burg. On the right rise the Glarus Mts., on the left the Untere and 
Obere Buchberg (p. 41), and above them the Speer (p. 41). 34^2 M. 
Bilten. We cross the Linth Canal (p. 41) to the Rapperswyl and 
Coire railway at (36 M.) Ziegelbrucke (p. 42). Thence to (43 M.) 
QlaruSj see p. 58. 

iii. Railway ftom Zurich to Bapperswyl, Wesen, and Sargans. 

From Zurich to (6 M.) Wallisellen, PP- 44, 45. The line traverses 
a fiat district, near the right bank of the Glatt, which flows out of 
the Qreifensee (1440' ; not visible from the line). Stations Duben- 
dorfy Schwerzenbachj &nd Ndnikon. — 14 M. TJater (1530'; Stem; 
Vsterhofi Kreuz), a large manufacturing village, with 6391 inhab. 
'n the right is the church with its pointed spire, and the loftily 
'iuated old castle with its massive tower, now the seat of the 



toCoire, BAOHTEL. 14, Route. 41 

district court (Restaur.; fine view). In the vicinity axe several large 
cotton-mills, driven by the Aa, a brook near the railway. A little 
to the N.E. of (16 M.) Aathal is the Lake of Pfdffikon (1775Q, of 
which we obtain a glimpse beyond the third short tunnel. The Alps 
of Glarus and Schwyz form the S. background. From (18 M.) 
Wetzikon branch-lines diverge to the N.W. to Pfaffikon and Effreti- 
kon (p. 46), and to the S.E. (in 10 min.) to Hinweil (Hirsch; 
Kreuz), at the N.W. base of the Bachtel (see below). Near (21 M.) 
Bubikon the line attains its highest level (18000. ^^72 M. Ruti, 
with a former Prsemonstratensian abbey, is the junction of the Toss- 
thai Line (p. 45). 

The Baeht«l (367(X ; */»»); 2 hrs. N.E. of Biiti, commands a fine view 
to the N.W. over the district of Uster sprinkled with factories, and the lakes 
of Greifen and Pfaffikon; to the S. the Lake of Zurich from Wadenswyl 
to the Linth Canal, the Linththal as far as the bridge of Mollis, and the 
Alps trova. the Sentis to the Bernese Oberland. Consult Keller's Panorama 
at the inn. From Wald (p. 45 j in V* br. from Riiti by rail), and from 
Hinweil (see above ^ small carriage to the top 7fr.)) good paths lead to 
the summit in l^/z hr. 

Beyond a tunnel the train descends, chiefly through wood. 
Near Jona (Schliissel), a pretty village almost adjoining Rappers- 
wyl, we descry the Alps of Schwyz to the S., and farther on, the 
Miirtschenstock, Schaniserberg, Speer, and Sentis on the left. 

27 M. Sappenwyl, see p. 39. The station on the lake, near 
the steamboat-pier, is a terminus , from which the train backs out 
on its departure. (Branch-line to Pfaffikon^ see p. 39.) Views 
to the right as far as Wesen. The line crosses the Jorm^ pass- 
es the nunnery of Wurmapach on the right, and returns to the 
bank of the lake near BoUingen. Extensive sandstone quarries in 
the vicinity. In front of us towers the Miirtschenstock, above the 
wooded hills on the lake (Untere Buchberg, see below), and to the 
light of it are the Fronalpstock and the Schild near Glarus. 

34 M. Schmerikon (*Rb8sli ; Seehof; Adler) lies at the head of 
the lake. We now enter a broad valley traversed by the Linth 
Canal, which falls into the lake here. To the right, on the N.E. spur 
of the Untere Buchberg (1977'), in Canton Schwyz, stands the 
ancient Schloss Orynau^ with a frowning square tower. 

36 M. TJtraach(1378'-, *Ochs; Falke\ a manufacturing village, 
lies on a hill to the left , surmounted by the church. (Diligence 
to Wattwyl in the Toggenburg 4 times daily in 2^U hrs., p. 57.) 
To the left, on the hill, the monastery of Sum (2317'). 36V2 M. 
Kaltbrunfi'Benhen. The wooded range on the right is the Obere 
Buchberg (2(m'). Near (391/2 M.)Soh&ni8 (1450'; •Hiracft; Krone), 
another industrial place, the ancient frontier of Rhstia, several 
sharp skirmishes took place between the French and the Austrians 
in 1799. 

We now approach the Linth Canaly constructed in 1807-22 by 
Konrad Escher of Ziirich, connecting the Lake of Ziirich with the 
Walensee, and, in conjunction with the Escher Canal, draining a 



42 Route 14. WALENSEE. From Ziirieh 

once dismal and swampy region. The canal rans parallel with the 
road and the railway at the foot of the 8ehdniaer Berg (5470Q ; to 
the right a striking view of the Valley of Glarus with its snow- 
mountains. 

On the opposite bank of the Linth Canal is the Linth- 
CoUmiej originally a colony of poor people who kept the bed of 
the river clear before the canal was made, and now an agricultural 
institution. 42^2 ^* Ziegelbrucke (H6tel Berger) is the junction 
of the Glarus line , which soon diverges to the right (p. 58). The 
Wesen line passes through a cutting and rounds the Biberlikopf 
(see below), the extreme spur of the Schaniser Berg. To the right 
tower the Wiggis and the Glarnisch (pp. 58, 64). The station of 
Wesen is V2 M. from the Walensee. 

45 V2^- Wesen — Hotels. ^H5t£l Spbes, at the station, B., L., & 

A. 23/4, B. i^/t, S. 2V4, pens. 7 fr. ; ^Schwebt, prettily situated on the lake, 

B. 2, pens. 6 fr. ; ^Hotel Maaiahalden, higher up on the slope, with fine 
view, pens. 6-7 fr. ; ^Bossli, pens, i-ii/s fr* Various less pretending inns 
in the ^Flp\ the quarter of the village extending along the lake, with num- 
erous gardens. — Bail. Rettaur, 

Wesen (1410'), a favourite summer resort, lies in a sheltered 
situation at the W. end of the Walensee. The Klosterberg yields 
good wine. 

ExcuBSioNs. Shady paths ascend from the Fly and the Hotel Maria- 
halden to the (20 Hin.) Kapfenherg^ which affords a charming survey. — 
Pleasant walk (from the station 3/4 hr., or from stat. Ziegelbrucke 20inin.) 
to the top of the * Biberlikopf (1896'); fine view of the Walensee and 
of the Linththal up to Netstall and down to the Buchberg. 

A new road with fine views of the lake, but destitute of shade, ascends 
from Wesen to (IV4 hr.) Amden or Ammon (2874' 5 Sirsch)^ loftily situated 
on sunny pastures. Host beautiful view at a small chapel to the right 
of the road, */* hr. from Wesen (refr.). — From Amden to the top of 
the Leistkamm (68900, 3V2hrs., interesting, and not difficult. — From Amden 
to Slarkenbach or Stein in the Toggenburg (p. 57), over the Amdener Berg 
(5056'), a route of 5 hrs., with beautiful views, but fatiguing on account 
of the stone pavement. 

The ^Speer (6417'), an admirable point of view, 4V2-5 hrs. (guide unne- 
cessary for experts). At the church we turn to the left, and ascend for 
the first V2 bi"* over rough pavement of conglomerate (pleasant retrospects 
of the lake). Then a steep ascent through woods and meadows; 2 hrs. 
Uniere BUtz-Alp (3563'): ^k\yt. Unter-Kasem Alp (43370; 1 hr. Ober-Kasem 
Alp (5404'; *Inn Zum Hohen Speer). Thence to the top a steep ascent of 
^4 hr. more. Beautiful view, especially of E. and N.E. Switzerland. From 
Mnat or Neislau (p. 57) the Speer is easily ascended in 3Vr4 hrs. 

The ♦Walensee, or Lafc« o/" Wai^natadt (1394'), 91/4 M. long, 
11/4 M. wide, and 495' deep, is hardly inferior to the Lake of 
Lucerne in mountainous grandeur. The N. bank consists of 
almost perpendicular precipices, 2000' to 3000' high; on the E. 
rise the barren peaks of the seven Curfirsten (^Leistkamm 6890', 
Selun 7240', Friimsel 7434', Brisi 7477', Zuatoll 7336', Seheiben- 
stoll 7556', and Hinterruck 7523'). The hamlet of Quinten alone has 
found a site on the N. bank. On the S. bank also the rocks, pierced 
by nine tunnels, are very precipitous at places. At the mouths of the 
>mall torrents which descend from the Murtschenatock (8012'), lie 



to Coire. HURG. 14. Boute. 43 

seTeral tillages. The names of the hamlets, Primseh, OunZy Tenerhj 
Qmrten, the above-mentioned Quintenf and that of the lake itself> 
indicate that the inhabitants are of Rhsetian or Latin, and not Ger- 
manic origin. 

Beyond Wesen we cross the Linth Canal by an iron bridge (the 
Olaras line, diverging to the right, see R. 19), traverse the broad 
valley, cross the Escher Canal (p. 58) near its influx into the 
Walensee, and pass through two tunnels with apertures in the side 
next the lake. Beyond them we observe the Bayerbach waterfall 
on the opposite bank , and the village of Amden (p. 42) on the 
hill above ; then the fklls of the Serenbach, which are copious after 
rain, but sometimes disappear in summer. Three more tunnels, 
between which we obtain pleasant glimpes of the lake and the 
waterfalls and precipices opposite. 50 M. TixCblehom (TeUaplatte ; 
*8eegarien, on the lake; Muhle, all unpretending). To the right 
rises the bald Murtsehenstoek (see below). 

Fbom MdHLEHOBH TO HoLLis (8Vs H.), ftn interesting walk. The road 
leads over the Kerensen-Berg , by (2V2 K.) Obstalden (2237'^ "Hirscb, 
with shady garden, 'pens/ bVa fr. \ •Stem) and (iV* M.) FiUbach (2336'^ 
Rossli), a village near the highest part of the route (by the Spannegg 
to Glaruty see p. 59). From a rock on the right, about V^ ^* farther, 
we enjoy an admirable *View of the Walensee, the Seezthal Mts., the 
valley of the Linth Canal, bounded on the left by the Ilirzti (5387'), and the 
valleys of Glarus with the Wiggis and Glarnisch. Much of our route now 
passes through wood, l^ear (3 M.) Beglingen we get a glimpse of the 
snow'fields ot the Todi, and then descend in windings (avoided by short- 
cats) to (1 H.) Mollis (p. 58). 

Two more tunnels (to the left, Quintenf see p. 42). 51 M. 
Kvrg (^Roaali, *8chiffli, pens, at both 4 fr. ; Kreuz , all rustic), 
charmingly situated at the mouth of the Murgthal. 

A visit to the ^Xurgthal, a valley 10 H. long, is recommended (guide 
unnecessary). The path ascends rapidly, past the Rossli, as far as (20 min.) 
a "Waterfall below a bridge, which we do not cross (or we may cross 
the bridge and return to Murg by the pleasant path on the other side). In 
20 min. more we reach another bridge, and cross it. After a steep ascent 
of */4 hr. on the left bank the path returns to the Murg and crosses it by 
a third bridge at the 0/s br.) beginning of the MerUnalp (36400- It then 
ascends a pleasant valley, through meadows and wood, to the (2V2 hrs.) 
three Murffteen (5488', d95ff, and 5980*). From the highest lake the «Both. 
thor (8248') may be ascended in 2 hrs. (guide desirable •, the fisherman 
or a herdsman)^ striking view (W. the Glarnisch, S.W. the Todi, S.E. the 
Calanda, £. the Scesaplana, K. the Sentis and Gnrfirsten, I^.W. the hill- 
conntry of Ziirich). — From the highest lake a fatiguing path crosses the 
Wideratein-Furkel (66070 to the deep JiUhlebachthal and (2V2 hrs.) Engi 
in the Sernfthal (p. 66) ; another (gnide required) leads over the Knrgsee- 
^kel (65680 to the MUrtschenalp (6060*), past the MUrtschenstock and 
fronalpstoek, to the ffeuboden-Alp (p. 69), and (5 hrs.) Olarut. — Ascent 
of the Kiirtschenstoek (80120 laborious, fit for experts only, with a guide -, 
nukgnificent view. 

Beyond Murg another tunnel ; above, to the right, the village of 
Quarten (ITe^Q with a new church. 5372^. t/ntcrtcrzcn (Freieck; 
Zur Blumenau). On the steep rocks of the opposite bank several 
waterfalls are visible ; to the right , the village of Mola. Then a 
tunnel. We now reach the K. end of the lake and cross the 
Seez-Canal, 



44 Route 14, WALENSTADT. 

56 M. Waleiutadt (1394'; HoUl Ckurfirsten, at the station, 
B. & A. 21/2 fr. ; Seehofy on the lake, R. lYgj pension 4fr. ; Hirsch, 
in the village) lies ^2^* ^'Oi^ Staad or Wcdengeatad^ at the E. end 
of the lake. 

ExcnssioN (with gaide) from Walenstadfc by a steep path through 
wood to the (2 hrs.) Alp Ldns; then, nearly level, to the Alp BUls uid (>/« hr.) 
the Tschingeln-Alp (50fi)'; milk)^ follow the slopes of the Curfirsten to the 
(IV4 hr.) Alp BchwaldU (4774') and return by Alp SehHnen (42060 to (IV2 hr.) 
Walenstadt; or proceed from Alp Schwaldis to the Salt- Alp (46620) descend 
by the BtaftU to the (1 hr.) Laubegg Alp (45O40 and thence by a steep 
path, but free from danger, to (IVz hr.) Quinten (p. 43), whence the lake is 
crossed by boat to Murg. — To Wildhacs in the Toggenburg (p. 57) a 
rough path, with splendid views, crosses the K&»erruek (7436'; 6 hrs.; 
guide necessary). 

We now ascend the bioad valley of the Seez. On a lock to the 
right, the ruins of Qtctpiang (Romanic Crap Long'), or Langenatein ; 
to the left, on a rocky height above BdrschUy the pilgrimage-chureh 
of 8t. Oeorgen. 58 M. Flwns (H6t. Bahnhof ; Lowe). Near (64 M.) 
Mela (1637'; MtUerhof, at the station; Frohsinn) the Seez de- 
scends firom the WeUatannen-Thal, a valley to the S.W. 

The ^Alvier (7753')) au admirable point of view, may be ascended 
hence in 5 hrs. (guide unnecessary for adepts). The path ascends from 
the station to the right to the (3 hrs.) Alp Palfries (5364'; Kurhaus, plain), 
traverses steep and rocky slopes, and (2 hrs.) reaches the summit through 
a narrow cleft by steps cut in the rock (Club-hut, room for 30 pers.). 
The magnificent view embraces the Rhine Valley, the Bheetikon, and the 
Vorarlberg, Appenzell, and Glarus Mts. (good panorama by Simon). ,Good 
paths ascend from Flums, Sevelen, Buchs, and Triibbach (comp. p. 328). 

Fbok Msls to Vattis, through the Weiatannen-Thal and Kalfeuser Thai 
(10-11 hrs.). Road to (8 M.)"Weis«tannen (3270'; ^(penfto/; ffom^K). Thence 
(with guide), by Unter-LavUna (4289^) and the Alp Val TUseh (6043'), in 
4 hrs. to the Heidelpass (7306'), between the Seezherg and the Heideltpitz 
(8619'), where we have a fine view of the huge Sardona Glacier, the 
Trinserhorn, and Ringelspitz. Descent into the Kalfeuser TJuil, to the 
Tamina bridge near St. Martin (4433") 2 hrs., and to Vdttis (p. 332) 2 hrs. 
more. — From Weisstannen to Elm by the Foo or Jtamin Pass, see p. 66. 

At (65 M.) Sargans (1590'; *H6tel Thoma, at the station; 
Rail, Restaur, ; Krone and Lowe in the town) we reach the Rhine 
Valley and the Rorschach and Coire line. The little town, 3^4 M. 
to the N.W., rebuilt since a fire in 1811, lies picturesquely at the 
foot of the Gonzen (p. 328), and is commanded by an old castle. 

Railway from Sargans by Ragatz to (79 M.) Coire, see R. 87. 

15. From Zurich to Eomanshom and Friedrichshafen. 

Comp. Maps, pp. 36, 22, 26. 

Railway to Romanshorn (51 M.) in 3 hrs. (8 fr. 65, 6 fr. 5, 4 fr. 35 c). 
Steamboat thence to Friedrichshafen in 1 hr. (1 m. 20 or 80 pf.) -, to Lin- 
dau in IV2 hr. (2 m. 25 or 1 m. 50 pf. ; see p. 26). 

The train crosses the 8ihl, ascends in a wide curve, crosses 
the Limmat, and passes under the Kdferherg by a tunnel 1020 yds. 
long. 3 M. Oerlikon (1443' ; Rail. Restaur.). 

From Oeblikon to Dielsdorf, 12 M., railway in 35 min. Stations 

Glattbrugg^ RUmlang, and (8V2 M.) Oberglatt, the junction for Ifiederglatt 

nd (41/2 M.) Billach (see p. 45). Then (IOV2H.) mederhasli and (12 H.) Dieh- 



WINTERTHUR, 75. RouU, 45 

itrf (1505'; Sonne; Post), the terminus of the line, IVsM. below the pret- 
tily situated old town of Kegensherg (2024'; *Krone)y on the E. spur of the 
ligemgebirge (p. 18). Fine view from the tower of the old castle (now 
an institiition for boys of weak intellect); still more extensive from the 
Hochwacht (2828% 1 lir. farther on. 

The line crosses the Qlait. At (6 M.) WaUiselUn (Linde) the 
Rapperswyl line diverges to the right (see p. 40). Fine view of 
the Glarus Alps. 71/2 M. DieUikon; IOV2M. EffreUkon (branch- 
line to Wetzikon and HinweU, p. 41); 13 M. Kemptthal. Near 
Winterthur the Toaa is crossed. On a hill to the left, the ruins of 
Hoch- WiUflingen (1962'). 

16 M. Winterthur (1447'; pop. 13,595; *Ooldner Lowe, R.&A. 
2V21 1). 3 1/2^'' > ^Krone ; *Adler ; *Rail, Restaur. ')y on the Eulach, is an 
industrial and wealthy town and an important railway-junction. The 
new ^Stadthaus was designed by Semper. The large School (with 
statues of Zwingli, Gessner, Pestalozzi, and Sulzer), on the Pro- 
menade, contains the town-library and a few small Roman anti- 
quities found near Ober- Winterthur (Vitodurum, p. 30). The 
environs yield good wine. — In the Tossthal (see below;, 41/2 M. 
to the S. , is the old ch&teau of Kyburg (2070'), commanding a line 
view, and containing a collection of pictures. 

Fbok Wintkbthub to Waldshut, 32 M., railway in 2 hrs. The 
line traverses the TOssthal. Stat. TSu. Wit^flingtn^ ^ungen-Nefienhaeh^ 
Embrach-Rorbas, The train leaves the Toss and passes through a 
tunnel (1980 yds.). IOV2 H. Biilach (1374'; Kopf; Kreuz), a small town 
near the Olatty once fortified (branch-line to Oberglaft and Otelfingen^ 
p. 18). The line runs through the Hardwald to the N. to Olati/elden and 
(13Vs M.) Eglitau; the latter (Lowe; Hirsch) with its castle lies on the 
right bank of the Rhine. We now follow the left bank of the Rhine and 
cross the Glatt. Stat. Zweidlen; 19 M. Weiacih- Kaiser stuhl ^ an old town 
with a massive tower; on the right bank SeMots Rdleln^ and farther on, 
the ruins of Weis»-W<userstelz. Stat. Rilmikon, Reckingen, Zurxach^ and 
(30 M.) Koblenz^ where the Rhine is crossed to (32 M.) Waldshut^ p. 22. 

Fbok WurrBBTHUB TO RuTi, 29 Vs M., in 2-3 hrs., by the T6uthalb<ihn. 
Stations QrUte and Seen. Near (D M.) Sennhof we enter the pretty TUssihal 
(hence to the Kyburg, 26 min., see above). Stations Kollbrunn, with large 
factories; Rykon, Zell, (10 M.) Turbenthal (Bar), Wyla, Saland, (16 M.) 
Bauma (Tanne), all thriving industrial places. Then Steg, Fischenthal, 
Oibswyl-Ried. From the last, situated on the water -shed, the Bachtel 
may be ascended in 1 hr. Then through the pictaresque valley of the 
Jona to (25 M.) Wald (Ldwe; Rdssli), a place of some, size at the S. E. 
foot of the Bachtel (p. 41). At (29Vs M.) RUti we join the Zurich and 
Rapperswyl line (p. 41). 

From Winterthur to Sehqfhauten, see R. 12; to St. Oallen and Ror- 
tduteh, see R. 16; to Contttmce, see R. 11. 

The Romanshorn line traverses the green and fertile Thurgau, 
20 m. Wiesendangen ; 24 M. lalikon, 

26 M. Framenfeld (1340'; pop. 5811; ^Falke; *H6U Bahn- 
hof) , on the Murg , with large cotton-factories, is the capital of 
the Thurgau. The handsome Schlosa on an ivy-clad rock is said to 
have been built by a Count of Kyburg in the 11th cent. 

29 M. Felben. Near (32^/2 M. ) MiUlheim the train crosses the 
Thur by a covered wooden bridge. 35 M. Mdrstetten ; 37^/2 M. Wein- 
felden (1463'). To the left Schloss Weinfelden (1850' ; yiew), on 



46 Route 16. FLAWYL. From Zurich 

the vine-clad Ottmberg. 39^2 M. Burglen; 41 M. Bulgen (1684'. 

Post). 

Fboh SuLOBir TO GosSAU, 14V2 M., railway in 67 min. (Ifr. 65, Ifr. 
15 c.). The line traverses the pretty valley of the Thur. Stations Kra- 
dolf, mtei'ihal. 6 M. Biachofxell (1653'; Linde; Sehuiert)^ a small town at 
the confluence of the Thur and Sitter; then Hauptweil^ Amegg^ Oossau 
(see below). 

Stations Erlen ^ Amriswyl, and (51 M.) Bomanshom (1322'; 
*H6tel Bodan; Falke; Jager; *Rail. Restaur.^, on a promontory on 
the Lake of Constance. Station on the quay (p. 29). The lake and 
Friedrichshafen^ see p. 27. 

16. From Ziirich to Bt. Oallen, Borschachy and 

Lindan. 

Comp. Mapsj pp. 36^ 50^ 26. 

Railway to 8t. QalUn (52V2M.) in 3 hrs. (8 fr. 80. 6 fr. 20, 4 fr. 40 c); 
to Borsehach (62 M.) in 3V4 hrs (10 fr. 20, 7 fr. 20, 5 fr. 10 c). Steamboat 
from Rorschach to Lindau in IV4 hr. (Im. 65 or Im. iOpf.)« 

From Zurich to (16 M.) WinUHhur, see pp. 44, 45. The St. 
Gallen railway is unattractive. The Gurflrsten gradually appear to 
the S., and the Appenzell Mts. to the S.E. 

2OV2 M. RaUrschen; 24 M. Elgg (2012'; Ochs; Lowe). To 
the S. (4 M.) is the Schauenberg (2930'; fine view), on the S.W. 
slope of which lies the Oyrenbad (2430'), with an alkaline spring. 
Stations Aadorf (Linde), Eschlikon, Sirnach. 341/2 M. Wyl (1936' ; 
Hotel Bahnhof), a pleasant Uttle old town; fine view from the 
station of the Appenzell and Glarus Alps. Branch-line to Ebnaty 
see p. 57. 

The train crosses the Thur by an iron bridge, near the old 
castle of Sehwarzenbach. 39^/2 M. Vtzwyl, the station for Nieder- 
Vtzwyl on the left, and Ober - Vtzwyl on the right. (Near the 
former, I3/4 M. from the station, is the hydropathic Kurhaus of 
Buchenthat). 43 M. Flawyl (2020'; *Ro88li; Post), a large manu- 
facturing village. The Olatt is crossed. 46 M. Oossau (Hdt. Bahn- 
hof; branch-line to Bischofzell a,iid. SulgeUj see above); 481/2 M. 

Winkeln (Kreuz). 

FsoM Winkeln to Appenzell, 16 H., in iVa br., by the narrow-gauge 
Appenzell Railway. The line passes the Heinrichsbad (* Kurhaus, with 
chalybeate spring, whey-cure, etc.). 3 M. Earisan (2560'; 11,090 inhab. ; 
LHwe; 8torch% a thriving town with extensive muslin-factories and a dock- 
tower attributed to the 7th century. 5V2 M. Waldstatt (2700'; Hirsch ; Pens. 
Sentisblick), with a chalybeate spring and whey-cure. Then through the 
UrnOsch Valley, by ZilrchersmUhle., to (9V4 M.) TJrntooh (2746'; ^ Krone; 
Seh^e). About Vs V. above Urnasch is the primitive spa of RosenkQgel 
(28^')* Beyond tJrnasch the train passes the (,iV/t M.) Jacobsbad (to the 
E.), with its mineral spring (good quarters) and continues visl (13 H.) 
Gonten (2970'; Bar) and (14 M.) Oontenbad (2925*), a well-managed whey- 
cure establishment, with a chalybeate spring, to (16 M.) Appenzell (p. 53). 
— Ascent of the Sentis from Urnasch, see p. 55. Over the Krdzern-Pass 
to Neu-St. Johann, see p. 57. 

We now cross the deep \alley of the Sitter by a handsome iron 
"bridge, 207 yds. long, and 174' above the river. A little lower 



to Lindau, ST. GALLEN. IS. Route, 47 

down is the Krdzembruche j with its two stone arches, bnilt in 

iSiO. 60 M. Bruggen. 

52^2 ^- ^^ €kdlen. —- Hotels. *Hbcht, good caiaine, D., inch wine, 
S"/? fr.; •H6t. Stiegeb; *Hir8ch, R. & A. 2V2, D. 3 fr. 5 *8chiff, Ochb, less 
expensive. — Gafis. Cafi-Rettaurarit Bdrse^ Pavilion, Trischli^ all three 
with gardens^ Ca/4 National; Walhalla, opposite the station. — Baths of 
all kinds at the LOchlihad and at the ''Paradiei\ — Havannah Cigars at 
Beckys, Bahnhof-Str. 10. — Embr<fidery at A. Naefs. 

8t. Oallen or St, QaU (2165'), one of the highest-lying of the 
larger towns of Europe, the capital of the canton of that name, and 
since 1846 an episcopal see, is one of the chief industrial towns 
in Switzerland, embroidered cotton goods being its staple product. 
Pop. 21,438. 

The Benedictine Abbey, founded in the 7th cent, by St. Gal- 
lus, an Irish monk, and suppressed in 1805, was one of the most 
famous seats of learning in Europe from the 8th to the 10th cen- 
tury. The extensiye buildings now accommodate the Cantonal 
offices , the Roman Catholic technical school , the bishop's resi- 
dence, and the Library. The last (open Mon., Wed., and Sat., 9- 
12 and 2-4) contains many valuable MSS. (including a psalter of 
Notker Labeo of the 10th cent, and a Nibelungenlied of the iSth 
cent.) ; of those mentioned in a catalogue of the year 823 about 400 
still exist. 

The Abbey Churchy rebuilt in 1755 in the rococo style, contains 
good ceiling - frescos and finely carved choir -stalls. The Gothic 
Church of St. Lawrence (Prot.), to the N. of the abbey-church, 
has been restored (1850-54) and embellished with a handsome 
tower, and stained glass by Qsell of Paris. 

The large School House in the Vordere Briihl contains the Town 
Library (^^Vadianiache Bibliothek^ ; open Tues., Thurs., and Sat., 
2-4), which boasts of valuable MSS., chiefly of the Reformation 
period. Near it, in the Museums-Str., by the Grosse Briihl, is the 
Mueeum, containing the municipal collections. On the ground-floor 
are extensive Natural History Collections (open Sun., 10-12 and 
1-3, Wed. and Frid., 1-3), and on the first floor the Picture Oallery 
of the Kunstverein (works by KoUer, Diday, Makart, A. Feuerbach, 
Ritz, S'chirmer, and others), and the collections of the Historical 
Society (open Sun., 10-12 and 1-3, Wed., 1-4; at other times, for 
l-4per8., 50c.). The E. wing is devoted to the Industrial and 
Trade Aft«5cwm (open Sun., Tues., Wed., and Sat., 10-2 and 2-4). 
Behind the museum is the Public Park ; farther on in the Rorsch- 
aeher Strasse , are the Town Hospital , to the right , and the Can- 
tonal Hospital y to the left. In the neighbourhood, to the W. , in 
the Arboner Strasse, on the left bank of the Steinach, is the 

extensive CanJtonal Prison. 

Excursions. The *Freudenberg (280i'^ Inn*, carriage with one horse 
fr.), IVs V. to the S.E., commands a charming view of the Lake of 
Constance as far as Lindau*, in the foreground lie St. Gallen and the 
surrounding country, dotted with houses, to the S. the Sentis chain, the 



48 BouUie. RORSCHACH. From Zurich 

Glarnisch, Todi, etc. — The * Vdgeliugg (41/2 M. ; p. 5!^ and the *FrmcTu- 
egg (4 H. ; p. 56) also afford fine views. — From the Kurzegg inn on 
the road to Vogelisegg a fine view of the Bodensee. Near it, the nunnery of 
Jfotkersegg (2567')- — To the Bosenberg (2445') with the Kurgenhurg^ a 
deaf-and-dumb institution (view to the S.W.)i walk along the hill to the 
(»/4 hr.) inn of SB. Peter and Paul (2628'; view). — Across the pastures to 
the Bemegg (2757' ; Inn), with view of the Sentis, and back by the Teufen 
road (2 H.). — Kronbiihl (2033'; Inn), on the Arbon road, with a view of 
the Lake of Constance. — Untere and Obere Waid, two health-resorts, 3 M. 
to the N.E., with splendid view of the lake of Constance (diligence from St. 
Fiden, see below). — Bruggen and the *SitterbrUeke (p. 46), by rail, in 8 min. 
— MarHMtoh$l and Mottelischloss^ see below. — To Trogerij Oais^ Appen- 
zelli Weisibad (B. 17), one-horse carr. there and back 13 fr., a pleasant 
day's excursion. 

From St. Gallen the line descends through a long cutting to 
(531/2 M.) 8t Fiden (Sonne), and enters the wild valley of the 
Steinach. Embankmehts and cuttings are traversed in rapid suc- 
cession. Nearly the whole Lake of Constance is frequently visible, 
and Friedrichshafen is conspicuous on its N. bank. — Turning now 
to the right, the line crosses the Ooldach by a bridge of five arches 
near (6672 M.) Morschwyl (•Pens. Gallusberg, near the station}, 
and traverses a fertile district to Rorschach. There are two stations 
at Rorschach, the first 72^* ^^^^ ^^^ town, and the terminus at the 
harbour. 

62 M. BOTBCliach. — Skehof, on the lake, B., L., & A. 31/2, B. IV4, 
D. 4 fr. 5 ^Ankeb, B., L., & A. 2V2, B. 1 fr. -, •Hiesch, moderate ; Badhof ; *H6t. 
BoDAK) Schiff; Hotex Bahnhof; Post^ ^Gsdveb Baum, with garden on 
the lake *, "^Schaflb, with garden, moderate \ Zdb Toggbnbubq ; BdssLs ; 
Zdb Ilge; Ochs, with brewery. — *'Rail. Restaurant, with a balcony and 
view of the lake. Beer at StierUn'^t, behind the station, and at the Falke 
(with B.). — Private apartments reasonable. — Sixths at Notter''s estab., 
on the lake \ *Lake Baths 1/4 M. to the W. ; bath with towel 35 c. 

Borsehach (iM2' 'y pop. 4368), a busy town on the Bodensee, 
chiefly important for its com trade, is also a summer resort (lake- 
baths and whey-cure). 

Bail way to CotVe, see p. 327-, to Bregenz and LindaUy see p. 406; to 
Heiden, see p. 60^ to Constance, see p. 29. 

ExGDBsioNS. Above Borschach rises the old abbey of Marienbarg, with 
handsome cloisters, now a school. The view from the Bobsghachbb Bebg, 
the green orchard-like hill behind the town, embraces the whole lake, 
with the Vorarlberg Mts. and the Bhaetikon chain. Its summit, the ^Bosa- 
biihel (Inn), may be reached in IV4 hr. from Borschach (boy to show the way 
desirable). The whole hill-side is intersected by roads, which afford a great 
many pleasant walks. The St. Anna Schloss, since 1449 the property of 
the Abbots of St. Gallen, has been partly restored (*Bestaur.)} fine view 
from the upper rooms. The road, which is steep towards the end, takes 
about 3/4 hr. frdm the station. The view from the Jdgerhaus^ V2 ^^' 
farther up, is still more extensive (Inn, good wine). 

To the Uartinstobel and Mottelischloss and back, 3 hours. By the St. 
Gallen railway to 8t. Fiden^ see above. Below the station we take the road 
to Neudorf (brewery on the left), descend the high-road, and diverge to the 
right by the Heiden road into the ^Martinstobel, the gorge of the Ooldach, 
spanned by an iron bridge 1(X)' high. Here at the beginning of the 10th cent, 
the monk Notker composed his ^ Media vita in morte sumus*, upon se^ng 
a man accidentally killed. Beyond the bridge we ascend the road to the 
left, passing the debris of a landslip which took place in 1845, to Untereggen 
(Schafle), and thence descend the Goldach road as far as a road leading 
through a grassy dale to. the right to the ^MdtteUBohloaa. This was for> 



to Lmdau. LINDAU. 16. BouU, 49 

merly the seat of the Barons of Sulzberg, of whom it was purchased by 
the wealthy li&tUli family of St. Gallen, and after various vicissitudes it has 
BOW fallen into disrepair. ^'View from the new platform on the top (gratuity), 
one of the finest near the ]ake. Pleas ant wailc back to Rorschach through 
tbe Witholz 0/t hr.). — To Tubaeh , surrounded by fruit-trees , and the 
Castle of Steinach about 1 hr. — By the *Obere Weg\ with fine views. 




the fine park); splendid view from the Steinerne Ti»eh, above the eh&teau 
(return vi& Thai and Mheineek, p. 327). — To Beiden^ see p. 50. 

To THB MBi.DBoe. Railway to (1/4 hr.) Rheineck; then a good road 
(diligence twice daily in 1 hr. 6 min. ; shorter footpath in >/4 hr.) to (2i/s M.) 
Walzenhausen (2307'; "Kurhaug; *H6t.-PeM. RheinburfffSy^tr.)^ a summer 
resf^ in a sheltered situation, with pleasant wood-walks and fine points 
of view. Road thence to (i^/s M.) the monastery of Orimmenstein; then a 
path to the left to the 0/4 hr.) '*Keldegg, a rocky height at the angle of the 
Rhine Valley, affording an admirable survey of the valley and the Boden- 
see. (Tavern in summer.) We may then descend to (V« hr.) St. Marga- 
rethen (p. 327) or (Vs hr.) Au (p. 827) and return by the last train to Rorschach. 

At Horn (on the lake, IV2 M. K.W.; railway, see p. 29) there are a large 
Hotel A £ath-Jiou$e (pension 6 fr.), and the Sieinbock inn. Visitors are also 
received at the Schloss, near the baths, to the left of the road. 

To Lindau hy steamer (1 Y4 lir-j fare lm.65 or 1 m. 10 pf. ; table 
d'h6te 2 m.), comp. p. 26. To the S.E. is Bregenz at the foot of 
the Pfander; in the background the RhaBtikon chain; on the W. 
side of the Rheinthal rise the Appenzell Mts. and the Sentis. 

Lindau. — ^Batbischkb Hof, R., L., A A. 34, D. 8 m.; ^-Kbonb, 
or Post , R. 2 m. ; *HdTEL Rbutbmank, •Lindaubb Hop, both on the lake ; 
Helvbtia, moderate; Bad-HStel; Sonne; G&btchbn auf deb Maueb, a 
pension on the mainland. SehHteengarten^ a restaurant with view; adjacent 
to it, Rupflin (wine); Rail. Restaurant. — Lake Baths on the N.W. side 
of the town, in the inner arm of the lake. 

Lindau., the terminus of the Bavarian S.W. Railway (express 
to Augsburg 6, to Munich 51/2 hrs.), once an imperial town and 
fortress, and in the middle ages a thriving commercial place, lies 
CD an island in the Lake of Constance, connected with the main- 
land by a railway-embankment and by a wooden bridge, 356 yds. 
long. Lindau is said to have been the site of an ancient Roman 
fort, to which the venerable tower near the bridge perhaps belong- 
ed. On the quay is a monument to King Max II. (d. 1864), in 
bronze, designed by Halbig. At the end of the S. pier, on a 
granite pedestal 33' high, is placed an imposing lion in marble, 20' 
in height, also by Halbig. The top of the Lighthouse on the N. 
pier commands a fine view (adm. 1 m.). In the Relchsplatz, near 
the lake, a handsome fountain with a bronze figure of 'Lindauia' 
and other allegorical figures, designed by Thiersch and Riimann, 

was erected in 1884. 

ExcUBsioNs. Pleasant walk on the bank of the lake towards the W. 
(cross the railway embankment and turn to the left), passing the villas 
of Lotzheck (pretty park), Oiebelbach^ Lingg (*Fre3cos by Naue), and 
others, to the (V4 M.) Schachenbad (Pens. Freihof), and the (Vi M.) Linden- 
hof (or Villa Gruber), with its beautiful grounds and hot-houses (adm. on 
Frid. gratis} at other times 1 m., tickets at the Schachenbad; closed on 
Sun.). About J/a M. farther is the ch&teau of Aluind, — Beautiful view 

Babdekeb, Switzerland. i2th Edition. 4 



50 Route 17, APPKNZELL. The Canton 

from the (Vshr.) *Hoierb«rg (1496*), which is reached by a path skirting 
the railway, or by the road by Aesch€ush (Schlatter) to the village of Hoirenj 
at the foot of the vine-clad hill. Two inns and a belvedere on the top. 
We may then return by Bntineeiier (^Bchmid's Bestanr.) and Sehachen 
(Zum Schlossle). — To Bregtnt, see p. 406. 

17. The Canton of Appenzell. 

The GantoB of Appenaell cannot vie in grandeur with many other parts 
of Switzerland , but it includes within a small space most of the charact- 
eristics of the country. It boasts of SwitBerland^ largest lake, of an almost 
southern vegetation, of great industrial prosperity, of the richest pastures, 
and even of lofty snow-mountains. The finest points are Heidtn^ 8t. Antom^ 
Wtidkin^liy Ehenalp^ the Hohe KasteUy and the 8eniu. The new Appenzell 
railway has greatly facilitated the access to the last. 

■ This canton, which is entirely surrounded by that of St. Gallen, was 
divided after the religious wars of 1597 into two half-cantons, Anaaer- 
Bhoden and Inner-Bl&oden, and to this day party-feeling on religious ques- 
tions is very strong. Inneb-Bhodbn , which consists of pasture-land and 
is 63 sq. M. in area, is almost exclusively Roman Catholic, and down to 
1848 permitted no Protestants to settle within its limits ; even Roman Gafho- 
lics who were not natives of the canton were strictly excluded. This restric- 
tion was nominally rescinded by an article of the Federal consitution in 
1848, but little change has practically taken place. Population 12,814, of 
whom 545 only are Protestants. Aubses-Rhodbn (90 sq. H., 51,968 inhab., 
3594 Rom. Cath.) belongs to the Reformed Church ; one-fourth of its popula- 
tion is engaged in the cotton and silk manufacture, chieflyfor firms at St. 
Gallen. "So government official receives a salary exceeding 200 fr. per annum. 
The popular assembly ('Landsgemeinde') is held on the last Sunday in April, 
in even years at Trogen, in uneven at Hundwyl \ every male inhabitant of 
Appenzell above the age of 18 is required to be present under a penalty of 
10 fr. ; and about 12,000 persons assemble on the occasion. 

The contrast between these two divisions of the canton in habits, 
manners, and costume is very marked. Aiuier-Rhode^ is characterised 
by the enterprising and prosperous condition of its inhabitants, many of 
whom are even affluent. Almost every house has its loom , the products 
of which often exhibit extraordinary taste and skill , and were objects of 
admiration at the London and Paris Industrial Exhibitions. The rearing of 
cattle is here quite a subordinate occupation. The inhabitants of Inner- 
Rhoden^ on the other hand, generally occupy scattered cottages and huts; 
they are, according to Aferian (1650), 'a rough, hardy, homely, and pious 
folk'' ; their costume is picturesque and primitive, and cattle-breeding and 
cheese-making are their chief pursuits. 

Whey-cure Sstablishmenta in the Canton of Appenzell : Oais^ WeUsbad^ 
Heiden^ Oonten, Waldstatt. etc. The goats'* whey is prepared on the pastures of 
the Sentis \ the milk is heated, and the whey separated from it by the ad- 
dition of rennet. The whey (^Schotten') thus prepared is of a yellowish-green 
colour, semi-transparent, entirely free from caseine, but rich in saccharine 
matter. The process takes place at night. Early in the morning the goat- 
herds carry the hot whey on their backs to the different establishments be- 
low. The whey-makers have about 600 goat on the Sentis, and even buy 
goats'* milk from other districts, to supply the hotel-keepers. After the sepa 
ration of the whey, the cheese is manufactured in the ordinary manner. 

Railway from Winieln to Appenzell in 1V2-2 hrs. ; from Rorschach to 
Heiden in 55 min. — Diligence from Rheineck to Heiden twice daily in I3/4 hr. ; 
from Heiden to Trogen twice daily in IV2 hr. 5 from AUstadten to OaU daily 
in 2 hrs., to Appenzell in 2 hrs. 40 min.', from 8t. Oallen by Tevfen to 
Oais 3 times daily in 2 hrs., to Appenzell in 2^/4 hrs. — Carriaflre from St. 
Gallen to Trogen 6 fr. (34 pers. 10 fr.) , to Appenzell 9-16, Weissbad 10- 
I6V2 fr. 5 half-fare more for the return. 

The Bail-way f&om Robsohach to Hbibbn, 4^3 M. long, is 



I 






I 



ofAppen%eU. HEIDEN. 17. Route. 51 

oonstraeted on the rack - and - pinion system (maximum gradient 
1 : 11). The train starts from the harhonr station (p. 48), stops at 
the outer station, where the toothed rail begins, and then ascends 
(views on the left) through orchards and Tineyards, affording charm- 
ing glimpses of the lake. On the left, helow, is the picturesque 
chateau of Wartegg^ on the light Wariensee, We then cross a ravine, 
pass through a cutting, and traverse wood. Near (2^2 M.) stat. 
Wienaehten (lOSOQ are large quarries of fossiliferous sandstone. 
We cross the gorge of that name hy a lofty viaduct, ohtaining to the 
left a beautiful view of the rich valley, with the mountains of the 
Bregenzer Wald beyond, and the mouth of the Rhine below ; then 
ascend through orchards and wood, past a deep ravine on the left, to 
(3 M.) stat. 8chwendi, and skirt the wooded OoLgentobel in a wide 
bend. 

41/3 M. Heiden. — ^Fbeihof, R. a a. 3, B. 11/4, D. 3I^, board b^h fr. 
per day, whey 80 c. ; ^SoHWxiZEBHor , B., L., AA. SVs, B. IV4, D. 3, S. 
2 fr.^ 80MNBNHUOEL, at the upper end of the village, near the Kur- 
halle; *LowE; Kbons, pens. 6fr. ; Lindb; *Zdm Pabadies; Zub Fbohen 
Adssight, well spoken of. Lodgings at Tohler'^i^ the postmaster. Baths 
in the QtuUenkof, — Viiitors" Ttuc for a stay of several days 1 fr. 30 c. 

Htiden (2465' ; pop. 3192), a thriving village with substantial 
houses, rebuilt since a Are in 1838, lies in the midst of sunny and 
sheltered meadows, and is a favourite wheynsure resort. Mineral 
water may also be procured. At the upper end of the village is a 
tasteful KurhaUe, The gallery at the top of the tower of the new 
church contains a good telescope , and affords a fine panoramic view, 
including the Lake of Constance. 

Walks. To the *Bellevue, a hill 20 min. to the S.E. , on the right 
bank of the Ostaldenbach ^ with a beautiful view of Heiden and the 
Lake of Constance, and in lOmin. more to the Sentisblick; S.W. to the 
Hasenbiihl , BeneenrUti, and *8teinliy with a pavilion and charming view \ 
8. to Bisehofsberg (see below). To the W. , below the Grub road (see 
below), the Kr&hmwald (pleasant grounds); N.W. (V4 hr.) the RoiiMihel 
above Wienachien (see p. &\ tavern, good wine). 

A road affording picturesque views leads from Heiden N.W. by Wolf- 
halden (2322; Friedberg) to (372^0 Rhemeck (p. 327; diligence twice daily 
in */4 hr.) ; another attractive road to the W. via Ontb^ Eggeraried , and 
the Martimtobel (p. 48) to (8 M.) St. Gallen (p. 47). To Rortchach there 
are besides the railway a pleasant footpath and a carriage road (i'/a hr.) 
by Zelg and WiefMchten. 

The * Chapel of St. Anthony C8i. AntHntbildT; 3635' ^ milk at the 
neighbouring hut), iVi hr. 8. of Heiden , affords a famous view of the 
Rhine Valley (preferable to that from the Eaien), Bregenz, Lindau, part 
of the Bodensee, and the Vorarlberg and Appenzell Hta. One route to the 
chapel is by Obereggf another, shorter, leads by the orphan-houses and 
the Bitcho/$berg (see above). From the chapel to AlUtUdten (p. 328) IVs br. 

The Kaieny IVi hr. S.W. of Heiden, is also frequently ascended (guide 
desirable, IVs fr.). We at first follow the Trogen road \ after iVi M. we 
ascend to the right towards some houses, where a boy may be engaged as 
a gnide; 10 min., the path enters pine- wood (rather steep here), then crosses 
an open meadow with a few chalets, and ascends the small peak of the 
(Vs hr.) ^Xaioa (3668'). The view embraces a great part of the Lake of 
Constance and Canton Thurgau , the embouchures of the Rhine and the 
Bregenzer Ach, the Vorarlberg and Liechtenstein Mts., with the white chain 
of the Rhtetikon and the Scesaplana above them to the S.E. To the S. it 

4* 



52 Route 17, TROOEN. The Canton 

affords a characteristic glimpse of the Appenxell district: the Kamor and 
Hohe Kasten, the five peaks of the Furgglen-First and Kanzel, the double- 
peaked Altmann, the snow-fields of the Sentis, and the Todi farther 
distant; in the foreground woods, meadows, and the thriving Tillages of 
Wald, Trogen, and Speicher^ to the left above Trogen rises the Gabris 
(see below) ; to the right, near Speicher, the Vogelisegg (see below) \ to the 
left, above Speicher, in the distance, the Pilatus and the Rigi. — The Kaien 
is 172 hr. from Speicher, and 21/2 hrs. from St. Gtall. Trogen seems almost 
within a stone's-tbrow, though really 3 H. distant. The path descends to the 
right by the Gup/ (Inn) and the Behtobel (^Hirsch), beyond which the road 
to Trogen is visible in the wooded ravine far below. H^ear the bridge in 
the vaUey below, is a rustic tavern *Am Goldach". 

The Oihris (see below) may be ascended from Heiden direct (avoiding 
the Kaien) : to St. Anthony'' s Chapel (see above) IV4 hr. \ then along the 
crest of the hill, with a charming survey of the Bhine Valley and the 
Sentis, to the Ruppen (Landmark Inn, eomp. p. 328), and thence to the 
summit of the Odbris, a beautiful walk of 2 hrs. 

The road fboh Heiden to Trogen (6Y2 M.) ascends the E. 
slope of the Kaien (see p. 51) to (21/4 M.) Langenegg (3182'; Inn) 
and then leads up and down hill, past Rehtobel (see above), sitaated 
beyond the deep valley of the Goldaoh on the right, by (21/4 M.) 
Wald (3150'; Sonne) to (2 M.). 

Trogen (2969'; pop. 2629; Hirsch; *Krone), the seat of 
government of Canton Appenzell*Ausser-Rhoden, a prosperous vil- 
lage, pleasantly situated and visited as a summer resort. 

Boad over the Rvppen to (7 M.) Altttadtent see p. 328. — Fbom St. 
Gallsn to Tbogen (6 H.) , diligence 8 times daily in 1 hr. 40 min. The 
road leads past the nunnery oiKotkersegg and the inn of Kurzegg (p. 48), t-o 
the (4 M.) *V»geli»esg (1856'; ^mtel-Pension) , which affords a fine view 
of the Lake of Constance, the populous and rich pasture-lands of Speicher 
and Trogen, and of the Vorarlberg and Appenzell Mts. A point a few 

§aces in front of the hotel commands a specially flne prospect of the 
entis. Descent to (V4 M.) Speicher (2978'; Lowe; Krone) and across the 
Bachtobel to (IV4 M.) Trogen. 

From the church at Trogen a road leads hy the pretty village 
oi Buhler (2736'; *R6ssli) to (5 M.) Gals, but the path over the 
'^'Cttbris (4100') is shorter and far more attractive. 

The traveller coming from the Kaien follows the Trogen and Biihler 
road to the (I/2 hr.) top of the hill (3487' ; view of the Sentis) 5 a finger- 
post here indicates the path to the left to Gais over the Gabris. Those 
who come from Vogelisegg should not go on to Trogen, but quit the high- 
road between Speicher and Trogen by a flight of steps to the right (iVa M. 
from Vogelisegg), diverging beyond a gorge which the road skirts in a wide 
curve. A small valley lies immediately on the right, and the path ascends 
gradually across meadows. After 7i hr. this path reaches the road from Tro- 
gen to Bdhler at a few hundred paces from the flnger-post. About 5 min. 
beyond the latter we reach two houses. Where the ascent begins we keep 
to the left. Farther on, the road skirts a wood (at the beginning of which 
the descent to the left is to be avoided). At the point (20 min.) where 
a row of old pine-trees flanks the road on the right, a footpath between 
two of these ascends, chiefly through wood, in 5 min. to the summit. 
The point first attained is the SignalhShe (4i6i'), the view from which is 
much obstructed by wood. A few min. farther is an *Inn. whence a charm- 
ing prospect is enjoyed (reached from the Vogelisegg in I72 hr.). To Gais, 
which lies at our feet, a somewhat steep descent of Va hour. Walkers in 
the reverse direction will find finger-posts at doubtful points. Numerous 
benches. 

Gais (3064'; pop. 2505; *0ch9 and ^Krone, R. & A. 2^/2-^% 



ofAppenUU. WEISSBAD. ll.BxmU, 53 

^A^l^j D. 3fr., whey 80 c. per day; AdUt^ Hiraeh, Rofhbaehj etc., 
plain}, a trim-looking village , in the midst of green meadows, is 
the oldest of the AppenzeU' whey-resorts, having been in vogue 
since 1749. Fine view of the Sentis from the Kurgarten. 

Diligence to St. Gallen, see p. 56. — The Road tsom Gais to Alt- 
STAinna (6 M. , diligence once daily in i'/i hr^ £rom Altstadten to Gais 
in I'/c hr-) is level for the first U/t M., and then descends uninterruptedly 
from the point where it diverges from the old road and winds round the 
mountain. The old road, shorter for pedestrians, and far preferable on 
account of the view, leadfi to the left over the 0/4 hr.) *8toM (3270' ; Pen- 
sion Stoss), a chapel on the pass, with a celebrated view of the Rhine 
Valley, the Vorarlberg, and the Grisons. Here, on 17th June, 1405, 400 
Appenzellers under Rudolf von Werdenberg signally defeated 3000 troops of 
tlie Archduke Frederick and tke Abbot of St. Oallen. The old road rejoins 
the new immediately below the Stoss, but soon diverges again. The road 
to the left, descending in zigzags, is the better ; that to the right is steeper, 
but shorter. — Those who intend proceeding from the Stoss to the Sentis 
may leave Gais and AppenzeU to Uie right, and descend direct to the (2 
hrs.) Weissbad, by the Ohere Hinehberg (^24'), which commands a fine 
panorama. 

A road traversing meadows leads from Gais to (3 M.) Appenxell 
(2550'; pop. 4302; *Hechtj ^Lowe, both moderate; beer at the 
Krone), another whey-resort, the capital of Canton Inner-Rhoden, 
on the Sitter^ a large village consisting chiefly of old wooden 
houses. It contains two monasteries, and was formerly a country- 
seat of the Abbots of St. Gallen, AppenzeU being a corruption of 
^Abbaiis CeUa\ The Hospital, the Church, erected in 1826, and 
the Landesarchiv or record office, containing interesting charters, 
are worthy of note. Shady promenades on the Sitter. — Railway 
to Urndsch and Winkeln, see p. 46. Diligence by Gais to 8t, 
Oallen J see p. 56. 

A road leads from AppenzeU, passing the Hdtel Steinegg, S.E., 
to the (2 M.) *Wei88bad (2680'), another whey-cure and health 
resort (R. & A. 2-4, B. 1 fr. 20, D. 3, S. 2fr., cheaper at a 
longer stay ; also river-baths) , pleasantly situated at the base of 

the AppenzeU Mts., and a good starting-point for excursions. 

Guides* Fees (J. A. Thdrig, Buber, Jae. and Joh. Kostei*): Wild- 
kirchli 5, Sbenalp 5, Sentis 10, over the Sentis to Wildhaus 20, Altmann 
12, Hohe Kasten 6, over the latter into the Rhine Valley 10 fr. — Horse 
to Wildkirchli 10, Ebenalp 12, Hohe Kasten 10, Eamor 9 fr. — Carriage 
to St. Gallen and Altstatten with one horse 12 , with two horses 25 fr. ; to 
Gais 8 or 14 fr. ; to AppenzeU 3 or 6fr. 

From Wxissbad to thb Rhine Vallet. The direct route by the 
Hohe Kasten (5V2 hrs.) leads to the S.E. through O/2 br.) BrUllisau (3061'-, 
Krone, rustic); by the church we follow the paved path, past the iirst 
house , as far as a bam , and ascend the meadows (towards the inn 
which lies conspicuously at the foot of the Kamor) as far as the last 
group of houses, Vs ^i*- i then straight on (not by the beaten path), through 
ttie enclosure on the right, to the /»» ^2um Ruhsitz'' (V2 br., bridle-path 
thus far). From the inn a steep ascent of 1 hr. by a good path , to the 
summit of the *Hohe Kasten (5900^; *Inn), which, together with the 
neighbouring (>/« hr. N.) Kamor (5880'), slopes precipitoiisly towards the 
Rhine Valley. Splendid view of the Sentis group, with its three spurs on 
thel^.E., which is nowhere seen to such advantage; in the other direction 
we see the Rhine Valley, stretching as far as the Lake of Constance, and 
the Alps of the Vorarlberg and Grisons. We may now descend by a steep 



54 BouU It. WILDKIROHLI. The Canton 

and atony path to (3 hrs.) stat. Senmtatd^SaUte (p. 328). It diverges from 
the Weissbad path to the left, just below the saddle between the Kamor 
and Hohe Easten, skirts the W. and S. slopes of the latter, and de- 
scends in zigzags (no possibility of mistake; several finger-posts lower 
down). Traversing wood for the last hour, we at length reach the village 
of Senmeald and the station. 

The favourite walk from the Weissbad is to the Wildsibchi.i, 
13/4 hr. to the S. (guide 4 fr., nnnecessary). Following the road 
to BiuUisau (see p. 63) for 100 paces, we ascend to the right; 
8 min. , a house , whence the bridle-track diverges to the left, 
while the good footpath leads straight on through a gate, 
crossing the bridle-path at (20 min.), a double gate; we then 
cross the meadow in the direction of the Ebenalp, or rather 
towards the depression between It and the wooded Bomrnen-Alp 
(to the left). A little below the top of the hill (40 min.) we 
turn to the right. (In 5 min. more the direct path to the Ebenalp 
diverges to the right ; see below.) The path approaches the foot of 
the precipitous rocks which descend from the Ebenalp to the Seealp- 
Thal (see below). Near the (72^^.) *Zum Aescher tavern we ascend to 
the right by a narrow, but safe path, skirting the perpendicular rocks, 
to the (5 min.) ''^ildkirchli (4920^), formerly a hermitage, found- 
ed in 1656, with a chapel dedicated to St. Michael, situated in a 
grotto (33' wide ; tavern). On the patron-saint's day (at the be- 
ginning of July) and on St. Michael's Day (29th Sept.) solemn 
services are conducted here, and the grotto and the Ebenalp attract 
numerous visitors. View of the deep Seealp-Thal (with the path to 
the Sentis opposite, see below), and, to the left, of the Lake of 
Constance, in the direction of Swabia and Bavaria. 

A dark passage in the rook, 150 paces long, closed by a door 
(opened by the landlord, who provides a light, ^l%ft.\ leads from the 
grotto to the *£bexLalp, where an entirely new Alpine view is dis- 
closed. The (25 min.) summit (5250'; Inn, 6 beds) , commands 
a superb view of the Sentis, Altmann, Curflrsten, Lake of Con- 
stance, etc. — We may descend direct to the (25 min.) Bommen- 
Alp (see above ; guide useful to the beginning of the distinct path). 

Pleasant walk by Sehwende^ leaving the Sentis route (see below) to the 
left, to the (iV2 hr.) Seealp-See (3747'), very picturesquely situated in a 
basin between the Ologgeren and Altenalp (see p. 55). — A new path 
leads from the Aescher tavern (see above) to the SeeaJp-See in */4 hr. 

To the Leuerfall, 2 hrs. , also interesting; the path diverges to the 
right from that to the Wildkirchli after 20 min. and ascends the Weiit- 
baehthal, the last part through beautiful wood. 

The snow-clad *Senti8 (8215'), the highest mountain in the 
canton, is most conveniently ascended from the Weissbad (6 hrs. ; 
guide 10 fr. ; one-horse carr. to Wasserauer 3-4 fr.). A road di- 
verges to the right from the road to Brulllsau beyond the (3 min.) 
bridge over the Schwendebach, and ascends on the right bank of the 
brook to (V4 hr.) Schwende (2840'; *Inn Zur Felsenburg, on the 
left bank), and to the (35 min.) Wasserauer Inn, where the road 
-'.eases. The ascent now commences (Katzensteig) , following the 



ofAppenzell. SENTIS. 17. RouU. 55 

telegrapb stakes, on the left side of a ra^ne through which a brook 
is precipitated ; (40 min.) chalets of the Huttenalp (milk). The 
narrow , hut well - defined path now skirts the Schrinnen , the 
shelving pastures of the Ologgeren (below which are perpen- 
dicular rocks), affording beautiful glimpses of the 8eealp-8ee far 
below, the Sentis and Altmann, and the Wildkirchli to the right. 
In 3/4 hi. we pass a refuge-hut , and in 3/^ hr. more we reach the 
MeglU'Alp (4857' ; small rustic inn) , in a picturesque basin. The 
path ascends hence rather steeply on the left side of the yalley and 
skirts the base of the Bosmiactd , being frequently hewn in steps 
(the telegraph stakes commencing 10 min. from the Meglisalp may 
be followed). After 2 hrs. the inn on the Sentis becomes visible. 
In early summer the snow generally begins here , on which we as- 
cend to the inn (steep towards the end) in another hour. Later 
in the season the path leaves the snow on the left, gradually becom- 
ing steeper and crossing large masses of rock, and also reaches 
the inn in an hour. The Inn (beds at 3-4 fr. , mattress in the attics 
i*/2 ^r. ; often crowded on Sat and Sun.) is 5 min. from the 
summit ofthe Sentis or Hohb Mbsmss, to which we finally mount 
by a path protected by a railing (at the inn a telegraph office , on 
the top a meteorological station). The **View (see Helm's ex- 
cellent Panorama) extends over N.E. and E. Switzerland, embra- 
cing the Lake of Constance, Swabia and Bavaria, the Tyrolese Mts., 
the Orisons , and the Alps of Glarus and Bern. — The N. peak, 
separated from the S. by the ^BUme 8chnee\ is named the Oyren^ 

8pit% or Oeier apits (7766'). 

From the Sentis we may descend, at first over snow, and then by a 
path which is very steep at first, over the Sehafbodin and the Fliess- 
Alp to (3V3-4 hrs.; in the reverse direction 6 hrs.) Wild?uxus or Unter- 
wasser in the Toggenburg (p. 57 ; guide desirable). — The usual route 
FBOM TBB Wbissbad TO WiLDHAiTS (TVs-S hr0.) leads by BrSUismt and 
through the BrUUtobel to the S&mtia-See (3970'), passes the FOhlen-See 
(4772' ; chalets), and ascends to the summit of the pass (Zwinglipeus., about 
6560'), between the Altmann (see p. 56) on the right, and the Krayalp- 
firtt (6953') and Roslenflrst (eSSa*) on the left. We descend by the Krap- 
^1> (5938'), and the Tetelalp (4560*) to Wildhaiu, This route, however, is 
rough, and not sufficiently repaying; the route over the Sentis (not much 
longer) is therefore preferable. 

Mountaineers may combine a visit to the Wildkirchli (p. 54) with 
the ascent of the Sentis U>uide necessary, 16 fr.) by leaving the valley 
of the Seealp-See to the left. The path leads high above the Seealp- 
See at the base of the Zdnsler and Behafler across the Alien- Alp ^ the 
Oehrli^ and over the Mtuchelfelt (numerous fossils); hence either to the 
left across the valley to the Wagtnlueke by the path which ascends from 
Weissbad (see above), or (1 hr. shorter) across the Blaue Bchnee (caution 
on account of the crevasses) past the base of the OpreiupUt^ and over 
the Flatten direct to the summit (7-8 hrs. in all). — A path, constructed by 
the S. A. C, ascends to the summit on the W. side also (6 hrs., with guide). 
It starts from the Oemeinen- Weten Alp (42i(y ; reached from Umasch or 
Vesslau in 2 hrs.), Mcends over stony slopes, and mounts a steep rooky 
slope in zigsags to the first mountain-terrace. The ascent is then more 
gradual, over rock and pasture, to the Fliesbordkamm and the (2Vskrs.) 
CM>-Hut on the Thiertetid (715(y). We next traverse rocks and debris, 
leaving the ^Blaue Schnee' on the right (see above), and ascend in steep 



56 Boute 17, TBUFEN. 

ilgzags to tbe u2te between the OyrenmUe and the Sentis. LMtly we 
mount the Flatten by a flight of steps 140 yds. long, protected by a wire 
railing, and reach the (IV2 hr.) summit. 

The Aitmann (7986'; 7 hrs. with guide; toilsome), is ascended from 
the Weissbad via the FShUnalp and Zmnglip<u$ (see p. 55) ; descent through 
the L&chlibetter to the Meglisalp (p. 55). 

Railway from Appenzell to Winkeln, Ti4 Vrnasch and HerUau, 
see p. 46. — If time permit, however, the picturesque Road yik 
Tbufbk to St. Gaxlen (12 M. ; diligence 3 times daily in 2 hrs. 
26 min.) is preferable. It runs by (3 M.) OcUs (p. 52), and 
along the Rotkbachy separating Appenzell-Ausser-Rhoden from Ap- 
penzell-Inner-Rhoden, to (I72MO BiilUer (p. 52) and (2M.) Teofen 
(2743'; pop. 4740; *Heeht; *Linde)y a wealthy industrial Tillage, 
picturesquely situated, with a fine view of the Sentis chain ; and 
thence through meadows and woods to (6 M.) 8t. OaUen. 

A Path from Appenzell to Teufen, a slightly shorter route, crosses the 
Sitter near Mettlen^ and descends the valley of the Sitter, high on its right 
bank, by Steig^ Lank^ and Heulen. It leads thence to the N.E., over the 
hill, and through several woods, descends into the valley of the Rothbeieh, 
crosses the brook, and ascends to Tet^fen. 

The Footpath from Tedfen to St. Gallen (iV2 hr.) diverges from 
the high-road near the ^Hecht' inn , and immediately ascends to (V4 hr.) 
the SchSJle's-Eifg (30Q0'; tavern) ; it then descends to f/4 hr.) St, Oeorgen^ 
where it joins the high-road to (IV2 M.) St. Gallen. — About 10 min. W. 
of the Schafle's-Egg is the ^Fr&lichsegg (3290' ; *Xnn)y which commands an 
admirable view: Teufen in the foreground, the green Alpine valley 
sprinkled with dwellings, and the Appenzell Mts., beginning with the 
Fahnem, on the left, the Kamor, the Hohe Kasten about the middle of 
the chain, the green Ebenalp below the snow, more to the right the 
Aitmann and the Sentis with its snow-fields, then in the distance the 
Glarnisch and Speer; to the W. the railway and road to Wyl, extended 
like a map at our feet , and to the N. , part of the Lake of Constance. 
Hence to St. Gallen, 3 M. 

18, From Wyl throngh the Toggenburg to Bachs 

in the Rhine Valley. 

Comp. Map^ p. 50, 

Railwat from Wyl to Slmat^ I61/2 X., in 1 hr. 5 min. (1 fr. 95, 1 fr. 

40 c. \ 2nd and 3rd cl. only). — From Ebnat to Buehs, 24 M., diligence 

twice daily in 5^/4 hrs. (5 fr. 20 c.) ; also several times daily to Nesslau in 

1 hr., and to Alt-St. Johann in 2^/8 hrs. — Carriage with one horse from 

Wildhaus to Bvehs, in 1 hr. 20 min., 12 fr. •, to EtmcU in 8 hrs., 14 fr. 

Wyl, on the Winterthur-St. Gallen line, see p. 46. The train 
traverses the Toggenburg, the busy and populous valley of the Thur. 

When the Counts of Toggenburg became extinct (1436), the County 
was purchased by the Abbots of St. Gallen, who at the same time secured 
to the inhabitants their ancient rights and privileges. In the course of 
centuries, however, a great part of the population having embraced 
Protestantism, the abbots violated their contract, which resulted in their 
expulsion at the beginning of the 18th century. This gave rise to the 
Toggenburg War, a violent feud in which the Roman Catholic cantons 
espoused the cause of St. Gallen, while the Protestants took the part of 
the Toggenburgers. No fewer than 150,000 men were thus gradually 
brought into the field. In July 1712, the Roman Catholics were at length 
iefeated at Villmergen in the Aargau ; and a general peace was concluded, 



WILDHAUS. 18. RouU, 57 

wUch secured to the Toggenburgen full ex^oyment of all their ancient 
libesiies, though they were ^till to belong to the Canton of St. Oallen. 

4^/2 M. Batzenheid; opposite, Jonswyl, with a new church. Op- 
posite (6 M.) Lutisburg we cross the Ouggerloch by a viaduct 170 yds. 
loi^, and 190' high. Stations Butschwyl, Dietfurt, and (IOV2 M.) 
Lichtensteig (pop. 1477; *Krone), a pleasant town on a locky 
height, with a modern Gothic church. On a hill to theE. (l^^hr.) 
is the ruin of Neu-Toggenburg (3566 *), a fine point of Aiew. 

.121/2 M. Wattwyl (2027'; Rosa; *Toggenburg'), a charming 
village, with 5283 inhab. and a new church. (Diligence to Utz- 
nach, 4 times dally in I3/4 hr., see p. 41) On a hill to the right is 
the nunnery of 8t. Maria der Engeln, and above it the ruin of 
Yberg, The last station is (15V2 M.) Ebnat-Kappel. The village of 
Ebnat (2106'; *Krone; Sonne; Rosenhuhly a restaurant with view) 
is a thriving place; 1 M. to the N. W. of it is Kappel (Traube; 
Stern), rebuilt since a fire in 1853. 

The 'Bpeer (BilT; not difficult for experts) may be ascended through 
the Steinihal in 5 hrs. (finger-posts ^ comp. p. 42) \ or from Neu-St. Johann^ 
or from NeMtlau (see below) , by the Alp im Load and the Herren-Alp in 
5 hrs. (guide 7 fr.). 

The High Road , commanding a view of the Gur&rsten op- 
posite, and, near Neu-St. Johann, of the Sentis on the left, ascends 
slightly on the right bank of the Thur, to Krummenau (2386'), 
wheie the ^8prung\ a natural rock-bridge, crosses the stream, Neu-St, 
Johann (Schafle), with an old Benedictine abbey, and (41/2 M.) — 

20 M. KesBlau (2470'; * Krone; Traube\ with a pretty church. 

To Urnasch ovee the Kkazekn-Pass (41/2 hrs.), a fine route. A road 
ascends from H^eu-St. Johann through the LauUrthal^ by Ehtnetb&il and 
the Xiedbad or EnMlMhler-Bad, to the (IVs br.) Alp Bemhalden (340Q') ; a 
path to the left then ascends through the Kratemwald to the KrAzem- 
Paas 0^60, and crosses the pastures of Krdzem to the (2 hrs.) Ross/all- Alp 
(Inn), whence a road leads to (1 hr.) UrnSsch (p. 46). — Ascent of the 
SentU (p. 54) from Kesslau, 6hrs. : from Bemhalden in V4 hr. to the >llp 
Qemeinen-Wesen (4210'); new path thence to the (4 hrs.) top (p. 55). — 
Ascent of the Speer, see above. 

The scenery becomes bleaker. The road leads past a fine fall of 
the Weisse Thur to (2V4M.)5t€m (Krone) and (2^/4 M.) Starkenbach 
(Drel Eidgenossen), a straggling village. To the right the ruin of 
Starkenstein. (Route over the Amdener Berg to Wesen, see p. 42 ; 
guide as far as the pass advisable.) Passing (1^2 M.) Alt -St. Jo- 
hann (2920'; *R6s8li) and (8/4 M.) Unterwasser (Stern; Traube), 
prettily situated at the sources of the Thur, we ascend to (3^/4 M.) — 

3OV2 M. Wildhaus (3600'; *Hirsch; Sonne^. A little before 
entering the village , we pass on the right the wooden house, 
blackened with age, in which Zwingli was born on 1st Jan., 1484. 
Wildhaus belonged to Rhsetia till 1310, and the region of the Ro- 
mansch language (p. 333) extended to this point. Behind the vill- 
age, which lies at the foot of the Sehafberg (7820'), we ohUln a fine 
survey of the seven peaks of the Gurflrsten (p. 42) ; or still better 
from the (8/4 hr.) -Sommerifcop/" (4317'). 



58 Route 19. MOLLIS. From Zurich 

Ascent of the Sentit from Wildhans or Ali-St. Johann (yia the FHeu- 
Alp and the Scha/boden in 6 hrs. ; guide) , see p. 56. — To Weia^ad by the 
Krapalp^ the FOhlensee, and 3&mtU$$e (7 hrs.), see p. 55. — To Wcaerutadt 
over the Kaserruetj 6 hrs., see p. 44. 

The road descends, finally describing a long bend, to (6 M.) 
Oams (1575'; Schafle), in the Rhine Valley, and then leads straight 
to (IY2 M.) Haag (p. 328), while a road to the right leads hy Ordba 
and Werdenberg to (3V2 M.) — 

391/2 M. Bucks (p. 328). 

19. From Ziirich to Glams and Linththal. 

53 H. Railway (Nordostbdhn) to Olams (43 H.) in 21/2 hrs. (7 fr. 20, 
5 fr. 5, 3 fr. 60 c.) : from Glarus to Linththal (10 M.) in 40-50 min. (1 fr. 
60 c, 1 fr. 15 c, 80 c). (From Wesen to Glarus, TVs M., in 25 min.; 1 fr. 
25 c., 90 c., 65 c.)* Carriages are usually changed at Glarus. 

Railway on the left bank from Zurich to (36 M.) Ziegelhrucke, 
see pp. 40-42. The train again crosses the Linth Canal (p. 41) and 
traverses the broad valley towards the S, ; on the right the Wiggis 
and Glarnisch (see below). 37 M. Nieder- and Ober-Vmen; 39 M. 
NafelS'Mollis, junction for (1 1/4 M.) Wesen (p. 42). 

KafeU (1434' ; Linthhof; Hirsch; Schwert) and Ober-Urnen are 
the only Rom. Cath. villages in Canton Glarus. The church Is the 
finest in the canton. The dilapidated Freuler Palace^ now a poor- 
house, contains some exquisite panelling. On 9th April, 1388, the 
canton here shook off the Austrian yoke. In the Rautif elder j where 
eleven attacks took place, stand eleven memorial stones. On the 
second Thursday of April the natives flock to Nafels to celebrate the 
anniversary. — On the opposite bank of the Escker Canal lies Mollis 
(1470'; *H6t."Pens. Haltli; *Bdr, *Lbwe, both moderate), an in- 
dustrial village. (Walk over the Kerenzenberg to MiihUhomj see 

p. 43.) 

ExGDBSioNS (Guide, M, Hauser). The Rantiapitz (7493')) the summit 
of the Wiggis Chain (see p. 59), rising abruptly to the S.W., is ascended 
from Nafels in 5V2-6 hrs. (interesting; no difficulty; guide 18 fr.). On the 
right bank of the Rautibach with its numerous falls, we ascend in sigzags, 
cross the Thrangibach^ and reach a road through wood. Passing above llie 
(1 hr.) Nieder$ee or HasUnsee (2460'), we reach the (V4 hr.) charming Obersee 
(3225'), skirt the lake to the left, and ascend through wood to the Orappli- 
Alp (4730') and (2 hrs.) Rauti-Alp (5400'), and in V/t hr. more to the sum- 
mit, which slopes gradually on the W. side (beautiful view). — An arSte 
of rock 1 hr. long, traversed by a path which should not be attempted by 
those subject to dizziness, connects the Bautispitz with the Soheye (7420'), 
the second highest peak of the Wig^ris. The Scheye may also be ascended 
from Vorauen (p. 64) by the Langenegg-Alp (4V2 hrs.), or from the Klon- 
thalersee (p. 64) by the fferi>erig and the Deytnalp (4 hrs.), or from Netstall 
by the Auem-Alp (5 hrs.). 

41 M. Ketstall (8t. Fridolin; Bar; Rabe; Schwert) ^ a large vil- 
lage (pop. 2400), Hes at the E. base of the Wiggis. The Lontschj 
descending from the Klonthal (p. 64), falls into the Linth here. 

43 M. Olanu. — '^Glakneb Hop, at the station, R., L., ft A. 4, B. li/si 
D. 4 fr. ; *'Raben, opposite the post-office, R. A A* 31/2, B. 1, D. incl. wine 



to Lmikthal. GLARUS. 19, Route, 59 

3 fr. ; ^Dmti Bidoemobbsh s LSwb ; Sonitb ; Adlsb; beer at the (k^f4 Tcbioi^ 
imppoflite the station . at the Raben, etc. ; *Re»ta»raHt on the Bergli ii9S3f), 
20 mill, to the W. of the town, an admirable point of view. 

Olaru8 (1490' ; pop. 5330), Fr. Gtom, the capital of the canton, 
witli busy industries, lies at the N.E. base of the precipitous and 
imposing Vorder-Qlamisch (7648'), at the W. base of the SchUd 
(TSCSQ, and at the S.E. base of the Wiggis (see p. 58), the barren, 
grey summits of which form a striking contrast to the fresh green on 
its slopes. The Hauastoek (10,355^) forms the back-ground to the S.; 
to the left the JTarp/stocfc (91800, *<> ^^^ "ght the BucW (10, 190'). 
In 1861 , during a violent Tohn* (S. wind), the greater part of 
tlie town was burned down. The new Romanesque church is used 
by the Roman Catholics and the Protestants in common. In 1506- 
1^ the reformer Zwingll was pastor at the old church, on the site of 
-which the law-courts now stand. The two grassy spaces in front 
represent the old cemetery. The Law Courts contain the Can- 
tonal Archives , the public Library , and collections of antiquities 
and natural curiosities. In the art department is a small Picture 
OaUery^ containing chiefly "works by Swiss artists. The Public 
OardenSj in front of the Glarner Hof , are embellished with a hand- 
some fountain, and contain memorial stones to the statesmen J.Heer 
(d. 1879) and J. J. Blumer (d. 1876), both natives of Glarus. — On 
the opposite bank of the Linth lies the busy manufacturing village 

of Ennenda (H6t. Neues Bad). 

Excursions (guides, see p. W). The Bohild (75000 Is a fine point (SVs 
hrfl. ; guide 12 fr.). The path from Olaras leads through wood and pastures, 
and over the Enne^erge-, to the (3 hrs.) Heubodeu-Alp (477(y) and thence 
to the right, without difficulty, to the top in 2V2 hrs. more. Admirable 
view of the Hiirtschenstock, Todi, and Glamisch. — The Fronalpstook 
(OdS^*; similar view) is easily ascended by the Ennetberge and the Fronalp 
in 6 hrs. — To ths Mubothal from the Heuboden-Alp, by the Miirtsehen- 
Alp (Oberttafel, 6063*), see p. 48 (to the Mirlen-Alp direct, 2 hrsj over 
the Murgsee/urket to the Murg»een, 3Vs hrs.)- — To Filzbach (8 hrs.; 
guide unnecessary for good walkers), a fine route: we cross the Fronalp 
{MUtlere 6193', Obere 6039*), pass between the Fronalpstoclc and Fahristock 
to the hrs.) Spcmnegg ^iO&) skirt the little Spcmnegg-See (4767'^ with 
the MtirUehenstoek on our right, p. 43), and descend the Platten-Alp to 
the Thalalp-See (3610^ and (3 hrs.) FiltbacH (p. 43). -> The Varder-GlUmUeh 
(7649), from Glarus 5V9-6 hrs. (guide 13 fr.), see p. 64. 

The *Xltathal (p. 64) deserves a visit. Good road to the Klffnthaler 
See 4Vs M., to Vorauen 4V2 M. more (one-horse carr. in l^/s hr., there and 
back 15, two-horse carr. 20-26 fr.). 

From Glarus over the Pragel to Schwpx^ see B. 21 } through the Semf- 
thdl to (7b<'r«, see R. 22. 

The railway to Linththal crosses the Linth six times. MM. En- 
nenda (see above). Near (451/2 M.)JtfitWdi (1666'; Hirsch), and again 
beyond it, we obtain a superb view of the Todi and its neighbours, 
which are not visible beyond Schwanden. The scenery is pictur- 
esque, the fertile valley with its factories contrasting pleasantly with 
the rocky and wooded slopes and the snow-mountains at its head. 

47 M. Sehwanden (1712'; Rati. Rettaur.^ The village. {*AdUr, 
pens. 6-6 fr.), with its large factories, lies at the junction of the 
8emf-Thal or KUin^Thal with the Linth-Thal or Gross-Thai. 



60 Route 19. STAOHBLBERG. From Zurich 

Diligence to £Im. see p. 66. — To fhe Oberbleci-Bee (4679*), a pleasant 
excursion , by Nid/um, in 3 hrs. ; fine view of the Linththal and Todi. 
We may also ascend by the charmingiy situated villages of Thon and 
Schtoancli to the (3Vs hrs.) Guppe»-Alp (66100, go past the small Quppen- 
Seeli and the LeuggeUtoek (6673') to the (1 hr.) OberhlegUeey and return by 
Nidfurn. 

The train crosses the Lioth helow the influx of the Sernf and 

passes through the village of Schwanden. Beyond (48 M.) Nidfum- 

Haslen is Leuggelbach, with a fine waterfall on the right. 50 M. 

Luchsingen-Hazingenj two well-to-do villages, one on each bank 

of the Linth. We cross the stream to (51 M.) Betschwanden-Dies- 

hack (1958'); on the left, a beautiful fall of the Diesbach. 

■ The Saasberg (6467'), a spur of the Freiberg Range^ easily ascended 
from Betschwanden or from Riiti in 4-4 V2 hrs., commands a striking view 
of the head of the valley and the surrounding mountains. — Ascent of the 
Xftrpfstook (HocMtarpf ^ 9177'), the highest of the Freiberge, laborious, 
and suitable for experts only (with guides 7-8 hrs. from Betschwanden, 
via Bodmen-Alp and KUhihal-Alp). 

Beyond stat. Ruti we cross the Linth for the last time. 53 M. 
Linththal^ the terminus, lies on the left bank. About Y4 M. to th.e 
N. are the favourite *Bath8 of Stachelberg (2178'; *0lamer*8 
Hotel, R., L., AA-Si^-'i, D. 3V2, S. 272^., B. 1 fr. 40 c., pens. 
61/2 fr. , R. extra , visitors' tax 1 fr. per week ; d^pendance at 
the 'Seggen', on the right bank), beautifully situated. The power- 
ful sulphureous alkaline water drops from a cleft in the Braunwald- 
bergy II/2 M. distant. The *View of the head of the valley is very 
striking : in the centre is the 8elh$anft (9920') , to the right the 
Kammerstock (6975'), and adjoining it part of the Todi to the left ; 
between the latter and the Bifertenstoek (11,240^) lies the Biferten 
Olacier. Pleasant walks have been laid out on the wooded hill-side. 

A road leads from the station to (^/^ M.) Linththal (2238'; pop. 
2301; *Bdr 01 Post; Babe; Kiausen, all moderate), a consider- 
able village on the right bank of the Linth, with large spinning- 
mills and other factories. On the opposite bank of the Linth lies 
Ennetlinth (p. 62). 

ExGUKSioNS. Stachelberg is a good starting-point for exploring the 
Todi region. (Guides: Heinrich and Peter Elmer of Elm, Joach.y Salomon^ 
and Adam Zweifel^ Rob. Hdmig^ and Thorn. Wieheer of Linththal; An- 
dreas Vordermann, and Abr<iham Stiissi^ of Glarus. High charges.) To 
the "Fatichbaeh-Fall (p. 62) ; '^Pantenbriicke^ *Ueli-Alp, and Sandalp^ see 
p. 61^ also to the (IV2 hr.) ^ Braunwald - Alp (4920'; small inn), with a 
magnificent view of the Todi, best from beside the school iVsM. farther; 
to the Oberblegi-Sec (see above), etc. — The Xammeratock (6975') , by the 
Kammer-Alpy 4hrs. , repaying, and not difficult. — The Ortstock, or 
Silberstock (8908'), by the Alp Br&ch and the Furkel. 6 hrs., laborious-, 
splendid view (guide 18 fr.). — The Orieset, or Faulen (8940'), by the 
JBraunwaldalp , 6hrs. , attractive, and not difficult (guide 18 fr.). The 
Bdse Faulen (9200') « the 1^. and higher peak of the Grieset, is difficult 
(6V2-7 hrs. ; guide 30 fr.). These peaks afford an interesting survey of 
the stony wilderness around. Other fine points are the P/anfUMtoek (8440*; 
6 hrs.) and the Kirehberg {Hoher Ttivrm; 8766'; 7 hrs., with euide). — 
The Qemafayrenstook (9758'), from the Upper Sandalp (see p. 61), by the 
JBeckenen and the Clariden Olacier in 3^/2 hrs. , not difficult; The descent 
may be made by the Qemtfayeralp to the Umer-Boden (p. 62). 



— # 



ioLmththal. TODI. 19. RouU. 61 

A road leads from Linththal (one-horse carr. from Stachelberg 
8/f. for 1/2 day, two-borae 12 fr. ; whole day 12 or 20 fr.) by the 
Auen^uter to the (31/2 M. j Thierfehd (2680' ; * Curanatalt ^ HoUl 
Todi , pens. 5-6 fr.), a green pasture surrotinded by lofty mountains. 
During the latter part of the route we have a view of the *Schreien' 
bach Waterfall (230' high), which the morning sun tints with rain- 
bow hues. 

A few paces beyond the H6tel Todi a bridge crosses the Linth, 
beyond which the stony path ascends for Y2 tour. A slab on a large 
rock on the left is to the memory of Dr. Wislicenus, who perished 
on the Grunhom in 1866. The path then descends a little towards 
the ravine, turns a corner, and reaches (74 hr.) the *Pantenbrucke 
(3212') , 160' above the Linth, in the midst of imposing scenery. 
On the right bank, a path ascends the grassy slope straight to the 
(V4 hr.) ♦TJeli-Alp (3612'), where we enjoy a superb view of the 
Todi. 

Thenee we may either return by the same road to the Hotel Todi; 
or we may aaoead to the right to the (IV4 br.) Lower Baumgarten-Alp 
(5085^, which lies on the right bank of the valley above the Thierfehd 
and presents a magnificent view, and descend by a narrow and dizzy path 
skirting the precipice of the 7W<(, turning to the left, 5 min. beyond the 
Baumgarten-Alp, to Obort and the Auengiiter (guide necessary). 

The ^pper Samdalp (6358')t 3Vsbrs. above the Pantenbrucke, is frequently 
visited on account of its grand situation. The path ascends beyond the 
Pantenbriicke to the right (that in a straight direction leads to the Uelialp, 
see above), crosses the Limmem-Baeh^ which descends from a narrow ravine, 
and the Sand-Baehy and ascends on the left bank to the (1 hr.) Vord$r« 
Sandalp (4100' \ refreshm.). The path now returns to the right bank. By 
the Hint&re Sandalp (4330^ it crosses the Biferten-Back^ and then ascends the 
steep and fatiguing slope of the Ocfuenblanken , 200(/ in height, where the 
Sandbach forms a fine cascade. Lastly we recross to the left bank, where 
the brook forces its passage through a gorge , and soon reach the (2 hrs.) 
'chalets of the Upper Sandalp (Alpine fare and hay-beds in July and August). 
The best point of view is V2 hr. beyond the chalets. 

The lanththal is terminated by a magnificent group of snow-mountains. 
The giant of this group is the ^Tddi, or Piz Ruaein (11,887' ; from Linththal 
10-il hrs.; only fit for experts; guide 40 fr. ; two guides required for one 
traveller, or one guide for two travellers), with its brilliant snowy crest, 
the most conspicuous mountain of N.E. Switzerland, ascended for the first 
time in 1837. The route is from the Hintere Sandalp to the (S'/z hrs.) 
OrUnhom Hut (8062*; spend night), and thence up the Bi/erien-Fim to the 
summit, difficult at places, in 4-5 hrs. more. Magnificent view. We may 
descend by the Porta da SpesehOy between the Fie Mellen (11,066') and 
Stoclffron (llfSU'), to the Val Rusein and (6 hrs.) Disentis (p. 3ol ; guide 
80 fr.); or by the GlietMpforte (10,926'), between the Stockgron and the 
Piz Urlaun to the Olienu OlaeUr; then through a gap to the £. of the 
Puntaifflas Glacier and down the Val Puntaiglas to Truns (comp. p. 3G0). 
— The Bifertenstock or Pis Durgin (11,240'), the second-highest peak of 
the Tddi group, may be ascended from the Kistenpass , via the ^Furggle\ 
ID 5 hrs. (difficult; for adepts only; guide 40 fr.). 

Passes. From the Upper Sandalp a fatiguing route crosses the Sand- 
Jim and the Sandalp Pass (92100 to Disentis in 6-7 hrs. (guide 30 fr.); 
another, fatiguing but interesting, crosses (B hrs.) the Clakiden Pass 
(98437 to the Maderaner Thai (p. 110, guide 36 fr.). 

Fboh Linththal ovee the Kistenpass to Ilanz, 13 hrs. (guide 30 fr.), 
fatiguing. Ascent by the Tritt to the (3 hrs.) Lower Baumgarten-Alp^ see 
above; then by the Upper Baumgarten-Alp (G/&9&\ ihe Rinkenthalalpi'86i9) 



62 Route 20, KLAUSEN-PASS. 

and the NUtehenalp (7275^ to the (3 hrs.) MuUenalp (7877'), grandly and 
wildly situated (with the small Muttensee ^ 8012*, on the left). We next 
ascend the Lattenjirn and the Kittenband^ high above the Limmemfhal 
(and opposite the Selbtanft and Bifertenstoeh^ with the QriM and Limnnem 
glaciers), to the (1 hr.) Kistenpasa (8200'), lying to the N. of the Kitten- 
stdckli (9019'). Descent by the Alp Rubi to (3 hrs.) Bri^els and (2i/ihr0.) Ilanz 
(p. 348). 

From Stachelberg by the Bitithal to Muotatkal see p. 64. 

20. From Stachelberg to Altdorf. Xlansen. 

Comp. MapSy pp. 68^ 74. 

10 hrs. Bridle-path to Unterschachen: from Stachelberg to Spitelriiti 
3V4i Klausen 2, Aelpli Aesch IVi, TTnterschachen 1, Altorf (diligence every 
forenoon in IVz hr.) 7 H.; goide (18 fr.) unnecessary; horse to Unter- 
schachen 27, to Altorf 32 fr. 

Leaving Stachelberg, we follow the left bank of the Linthy pass 
ElnnetUnth, cross the (}/% hr.) Frulbach (small waterfall), and ascend 
to the right through wood; min. farther (where the path divides, 
we follow the lower) we pass a fine *Waterfall of the Fatsehbachy 
which descends from the Urner Boden. (In order to view the fall we 
turn to the right, fifteen paces before reaching the little bridge, and 
ascend for 200 paces by a narrow path on the left bank. We then 
return almost to the beginning of the path, and ascend the Frutberffy 
on which we regain the bridle-path in 5 min.) The path ascends 
rapidly through wood for 1 hr., then for the next 40 min. more 
gradually. A wall and gate form the boundary between Glarns and Uri 
at the point where the Scheidbdchli (4290^) descends from the right. 

The Timer Boden (2^4 hrs. from Stachelberg), a broad grassy 
and at places marshy valley, with a few groups of chalets, about 4 M. 
long and 1/2 M- ^^oad, now begins. It is bounded on the N. by the 
jagged ridge of the Jagemstocke andJfaren&erye, culminating in the 
Ortstock (89080 , and on the S. by the glaciers and snow-fields of 
the Clariden (10,728'). About */2 hr. from the frontier of Glarus we 
pass the Alpine tavern Zur Sonne j and then (25 min.) the chalets of 
Spitelriitiy with a Chapel and the inn Zum Tell on a hill (4560^), 

The path traverses the pasture for 72^^- more, and then ascends 
a stony slope, passing (3/4 hr.) an excellent spring to the left, to the 
(V4hr.) Klausen-Alp and the (^^2^^-) Klanaen Pati (64370. On the 
W. side we descend the gentle slopes of the beautifully situated 
Bodmer Alp (to the left, the Oroase Scheerhomy 10,814'). After 
^2 1^^-) where the path divides, we turn to the left to the (5 min.) 
chalets of the Lower Balm (5600') and cross the brook to a rocky 
deft, forming the approach to the Balmwand, which here descends 
precipitously to the Schachenthal. The stony path descends in zig- 
zags to the 0/2 hr.) Aelpli ('little Alp') Aesch (4173' ; *H6t, Staubi, 
rustic). To the left, the discharge of the Griea Olacier , on the N. 
side of the Scheerhorn, forms the magnificent *8tdubef Waterfall. 

We now descend the wooded Sch&chentlial, on the left bank of 
the turbulent Schdchenbach. On the right bank (35 min.) the Chapel 



MUOTATHAL. 21, RouU, 63 

ofSi. Anna; 10 min., we cross the stream ; 1/4 ^^-7 Vntertoh&ehen 
(3346'; *n6t. Clausen, moderate ; one-horse carr. to Altdorf 10 fr.), 
Jnely situated near the mouth of the Brunni-Thalj through which 
peeps the Orosae Ruch€n(i0,2db'^j with its glaciers. (Over the Ruch- 
ithlen Pass to the Maderaner Thai, see p. 110.) To the N. rises the 
SchdehenthaUr WmdgaUe (90520, and farther W. the Kinzig Pass 
(see below), the scene of Suvoroff s celehrated retreat. 

A road descends the pretty valley, by Spiringen, where a disastrous 
landslip from the Spitten (8050'), situated on the S., occurred in 
June lo87, Weiterschwanden, and Trudelingenj to (5 M.) a stone 
bridge over the Schachenbach, and thence to (1 M.) Burglen (p. 98) 
and Altdorf J see p. 97. 

21. From Schwyz to Olaxus over the Pragel. 

Comp. J£ap*, pp. 74, 68. 

ll brs. DiLiOBMGB from Schwyz to (8 M.) Huotathal twice daily in 
IVs br. \ carriage with one horse 9 , with two horses 14 fr. From Muota- 
tlxal over the Pragel to (4V4 hrs.) Bichisan , a bridle-path , unattractive ; 
guide advisable, especially early and late in the season when the pass is 
covered with snow (18 fr.^ Jos, Qwtrder or Xav. Hedig$r of Muotathal). 
No inn between Muotathal and Bichisau. The pass being uninteresting, it 
IB preferable to visit the Muotathal , as far as the Suvoroff bridge , from 
Schwyz or Brunnen, and the Kldnthal flrom Glarus (see p. 59). 

Sehwytj see p. 96. The road ascends to the S. through or- 
chards and meadows (view of the Lake of Lucerne to the right), and 
in a wooded ravine at the foot of the Oibel reaches the Muota, 
which flows through a deep rocky channeL Opposite, to the right, 
is Ober-Schonehbueh, upon which the French were driven back by 
Suvoroff in 1799. Farther up the Muota ravine (2^2 ^0) ^^^ ^^^ 
visible from the road, is the Suvoroff Bridge, which was contested 
by the Russians and the French for two days. (At a sharp bend 
in the road, 2^2 M. from Schwyz, a road descends to the right to 
this bridge in 3min.; we may then return to Schwyz through wood 
and pastures on the left bank, a pleasant walk of 2 hrs. in all.). 
Beyond (21/2 M.) Bied (AdUr), on the left, is the Ostubtfall, at 
first descending perpendicularly, and then gliding over the rock. 
At (1 M.) Fbllmis (1903') the road crosses the Muota, passes the 
Mettelbaehfall in the Kessdtobel, and reaches (2 M.) — 

8 M. Muotathal (1996'; pop. 1885; Krone; *Hirsch\ the capi- 
tal of the valley, with the Franciscan Nunnery of 8t. Joseph, founded 
in 1280 , in which Suvoroff had his headquarters in 1799. Fine 

lock scenery and waterfalls in the vicinity. 

OvKB THE Kinzio-Pass TO Altobf, 8 hrs., fatiguing (guide unnecessary 
for adepts). After following the Pragel route for 1/4 hr., we diverge by 
the Hnota bridge to the right, and ascend- the Euri-Thal, passing the cha- 
lets of LipplUbUhl and W&nai , to the (SVa hrs.) Xinxig Paas (67900i lying 
to the S.E. of the Faulen (81500- A height V4 hr. to the S. commands 
a striking *View of the Bernese Alps and of the Scheerhorn and Clariden 
to the S.E. Then a rapid descent to the SehdcherUhal (p. S2), Weiter- 
Hhtgandsn, and BUrgUn (p. 98). The Kinzig Pass is famous for the masterly 



1 ! 

i 
I 



64 Soute 21. KLONTHAL. 

retreat of Suvoroff, who, when cut off from the Lake of Lucerne by 
the French in Sept. 1799, marched with hia army through the Schachen- 
thal to the Muotathal , thence over the Pragel to Glarus , and lastly over 
the Panixer Pass to Goire. 

Thbouoh the Bisithal to Stachelbebg, 10 hrg.f rough but attractive; 
guide necessary. Gk)od path (at first a road) through the Bisithal, water- 
ed by the Muota, to (2V2 hrs.) Sehwarzenbach (3153'); steep ascent tbencc 
to the left to the (3 hrs.) Alp M^lehherg (62930 '« then across the dreary 
Karr&Mi'p between the Kirehhtrg and Faulen (p. 60), and down the Brau»- 
waldalp to (4-5 hrs.) Stachelberg. Another route is from Sehwarzenbach 
across the Bdrensool and Geitenberg Alps to the RohbUUli-Alp and the 
Karrenalp. Or from Sehwarzenbach we may go farther up the Muota, 
and then ascend to the right over the WaldirAlp and Ruos-Alp to the 
(4 hrs.) Ettosalper Kulm (7126'), descend to the Kasem-Alp, turn to the left, 
and reach the (IV4 hr.) Balmalp on the Klausen route (see p. 62). 

To SiSIKON THROUGH THE BlEMENSTALDENTHAL and ftCrOSS the KatZ€n- 

zagei (4888'), a footpath, 7 hrs. (unattractive). 

From Muotathal the path leads to the (1/2 lir.) foot of the Stal- 
den, and then ascends a toilsome and stony slope to (1 hr.) a group 
of houses (fine retrospect) ; 1/4 hr. farther, it crosses the Starzlenbach 
by the Klosterherg Bridge , to the left, and ascends rapidly to the 
right to two houses; 40 min., by a gate, we descend to the right, 
and cross the brook ; 10 min., a cross; 5 min. , a cattle-shed in a 
picturesque valley; ^l^hi.^thQ Sennehrunnen^ with excellent water ; 
5 min., refuge-hut; 5 min., a cross. Lastly, almost level, to the (25 
min.) chalets on the marshy Pragel (5060' ; no view) 

The path, at first steep and stony, now descends to the (8/4 hr.) 
chalets of the Sehwellaui (4367^), and then leads through wood ; 
1/4 hr., the Neuhuttli (4193'); here we turn to the right towards a 
large pine, where the pretty Klonthal and its lake become visible ; 
Y2 hr. Bichisan (3590'; Kurhaus^ moderate), a rich green pasture 
with fine groups of trees. A road descends hence , across a fine 
open pasture, in full view of the imposing Glamisch, to (1 hr.) 

Yoranen (2640' ; Aehli's 7nn), beautifully situated in the Klonthal. 

The '^Ol&rmgoh , the huge rocks of which bound the Klonthal on the 
S. side, one of the most picturesque mountains in Switzerland, culmin- 
ates in the Vorder- Glamisch (7648'), the Vrenelisgdrtli or Mittler-Gldrnisch 
(9534'), the Ruchen-Gldmisch (9567'), and the BachiitocJt or Hinter-Gldmisch 
(9583'). The ascent of the Buchen-Glarnisch is not difficult for moun- 
taineers (7V2 ^I'S- \ gnide 25 fr. \ see p. 60). We cross the Bichisauer and 
Rossmatter Klon , to the W. of Vorauen , enter the narrow Rossmatter 
Thal^ pass the chalets of KiUem (8968') and Werben (4562'), and reach the 
(41/2 hrs.) restored Clttb Hut in the StetnthUli (66130- We next ascend steep 
stony slopes and cross the Glamuchjlm, regain the rock, and reach the 
top in 3 hrs. from the hut. Very grand view. — Ascent of the Vorder- 
Gl&mueh from Glarus laborious (5i^*6 hrs. *, guide 13 fr. s comp. p. 59). 

Ascent of the Scheye (Wiggis) from Vorauen, see p. 68. Over the 
BcJmeinalp Pent to the WdggWialj see p. 40. 

The "Udnthal is a picturesque dale, with meadows of freshest 
green, carpeted with wild- flowers until late in the autumn, and 
thinly peopled. To the S. rise the almost perpendicular precipices 
of the Olarnisch (see Khove). The pale-green ^ont/iaJcr-^ec (2640'), 
11/2 M. from Vorauen, a lake 2 M. long and V3 M. broad, enhances 
the beauty of the valley, reflecting in calm weather the minutest 
furrows on the side of the Glamisch . The rocks on the S. bank, 



I 

■\r ' 

t, 
I 



SERNFTHAL. 22. UouU, 65 

near a waterfall, bear an inscription to the poet ScXornxm Oeasner 
(d. 1787) , who often spent part of the summer in a nelghhouring 
chalet. The road skirts the N. bank. (Boat down the lake in 50 
min. ; fare for 1-10 pers. 11/2 ^'0 ^^ *^® ^8eeruti\ at the lower 
end of the lake (872 M. from Vorauen), is a rustic little *Jnn. 

Below the lake the valley narrows to a gorge, through which 
dashes the LSnisch, the discharge of the lake, forming a series of 
cascades amid grand rocky scenery down to its confluence with the 
Linth, below Netstall. To the left rise the huge perpendicular cliffs 
of the Wiggis Chain (p. 58). We obtain a pretty view of the deep 
ravine from the iron foot-bridge , which crosses to the Kohlgrubli 
Inn, beside a (3/4 hr.) guide-post, below the road to the right. 

The road divides at the (3/4 M.) StaldcngarUn inn. The left 
branch leads to (2 M.) NetataU (p. 58) , the right leads over the 
Lontsch bridge to (1 M.) Biedem and (IV4 M.) Glams (p. 58). 
In descending we enjoy a fine view of the Fronalpatock^ the Schild, 
and the Freiberg e (between the Linth and Sernf valleys). 

22. From Glariis to Coire through the Semf-Thal. 

Comp. Mapy p. 58. 

16-18 hrs. Bailwat from Glarus to Scbwanden, 17 min. ; Diligence 
from. Schwanden to Elm twice daily in 2^4 hrs. (descent, IY4 hr.). — From 
Elm to Films over the Segues Pass, 8-9 hrs., guide 20 fr. (p. 66)^ to Ilanz 
over the Panixer Pass, 9 hrs., guide 18 fr. — From Films to Coire D11.1- 
OENCE twice daily in SV* hrs. ; from Flims to Beichenau a pleasant walk ; 
thence to Coire driving is preferable (diligence 4 times daily). 

At Schwanden (p. 59), 3 M. to the S, of Glarus, the deep Semf- 
Thal, or Klein-Thai , diverges to the left from the Linththal. The 
high-road gradually ascends the N. slope. Beyond (1^2 ^0 ^<irt 
is a pretty waterfall on the left; fine retrospective view of the 
Glarnisch. 3 M. JS^nj^i (2540'; pop. 1148; ♦Sonne), with cotton- 
mills, at the mouth of the narrow Muhlebach-Thal. (Passage of 
the Wideratein-Furkel to the Murgthal, see p. 43.) The slate- 
quarries (Plattenberge) on the left bank of the Sernf are noted for 
their fossil flsh. From (2 M.) Matt (27100 » Pa*^ *o *^e N. E. 
leads in 6 hrs. through the Krauchihal and over the Rieaeten Pass 
(6644') to Weisstannen (p. 44). 

3M. Elm (3215'; V. Elmers Zentntr'), the highest viUage in 

the valley, in a fine basin encircled by snow-mountains, was partly 

destroyed by a landslip on 11th Sept. 1881. 

From the Taehingelberg^ above the slate - quarries to the S.E. of the 
village, between the Risikopf and the Oelhe Kopf, a rock about 1900' in 
breadth, 320' in thickness, and BOO* in height, became detached and was 
precipitated over a steep slope, with a gradient of about 70 : 1(X), into the 
valley iiSOf below, covering it for a distance of 1 M. with an enormous 
mass of debris, upwards of 225 acres in area. Nearly the whole Unter- 
ihal, the garden of the village, with 22 dwelling-houses and 57 other 
buildings, was destroyed; 114 persons perished*, and the damage was 
estimated at nearly IV2 million fr. The church bears a memorial tablet 
recording the names of the deceased. Below the village a road crosses 

Baxdbksb, Switzerland. 12th Edition. 5 



66 Route 22. SEGNES PASS. 

the Semf by a new iron bridge and intersecU the scene of the landslip, 
where cultivation is beginning to reappear. 

AscBNTS (for experts only ; guides Heinrich and Pettr Elmer, see p. 00). 
The Kdrp/itock (9180'), by the Wiehlen-Alp, 6 hrs. (laborious, but, with 
good guides, free from danger). — The Vorab (9925'), by the Sether Furka 
(see below), 7-8 hrs. — The Hausslock (10,355'), the Pit Segnes (10,280'), 
and the Saurenttock (10,0260 are more difficult. 

Passes. To Flims ovkb the Segnes Pass, 8 hrs., fatiguing, but 
interesting (guide, 18 fr., advisable even for experts as far as the other side 
of the snow field beyond the pass). We cross the Semf, amidst the re- 
mains of the landslip, and the Raminbach, and ascend the wild gorge 
of the Tsehingelnbach, which forms several picturesque falls, to the T»ehin- 
geln-Alp. We then mount steep grassy and stony slopes to the (5 hrs.) 
Bagnes Faaa (8616') , lying to the S.W. of the Piz Seines (10,2800. To 
the right rise the lagged TschingelhOrner or Jfannen (9452 ') , perforated by 
the Martimloch (86^), a hole through which the sun shines on the 
church of Elm twice a year. Descent over a slope of snow, and then over 
debris; to the left is the Stgnes Olacier, between the Piz segnes and the 
Trinterhom (99350* The path, which now improves, descends through 
pastures, wood, and meadows, in view of the Vorder-Bhelnthal and its 
mountains, to (3 hrs.) FUmt (p. 847). 

To Ilanz over tub Panixeb Pass, 9 hrs. (guide 18 fr.), fatiguing 
and unattractive, but historically famous for SuvoroflTs retreat of 6th-10th 
Oct., 1799 (comp. p. 63). A road ascends on the left bank of the Sernf 
from Elm by Hinter-Steinibach to the (40 min.) ErbserbrUcke ; 25 min. farther 
up, at Wall^nibrugg, we cross the Semf and ascend by a steep, rugged path 
to the chalets of the JUttalp {Im Loch , 4822*; Ober-Staffel , 5^0- We 
next cross the Walenboden, pass the Binkenkop/, traverse a patch of snow 
(with a small tarn on the left), and reach the (SVs hrs.) Paaizer PMa 
(Cuoltn da Pignieu; 79070, with its refuge-hut. On the right rises the 
Henustock (see above), with theMeer-Olccier. Descent over the Meer-Alp and 
the wild Ranasea-Alp to (2V2 hrs.) Panix (4334'; Panixer Pass Inn), and vi& 
Ruis to (2 hrs.) Ilanz (p. 848). — Another route to Ilanz, fatiguing and un- 
interesting , crosses the Bether Turka (86660' It diverges from the Panix 
route to the left, by the tarn above mentioned, and ascends steeply to the 
pass. Descent by the Rutcheiner Alp and through the Sether Tobtl to 
(9 hrs.) nam (p. 348). 

To Weibstaknen bt the Foo Pass, 7 hrs., rather rough (guide 15 fr.). 
We ascend the right bank of the Baminbach, chiefly through wood, to the 
Ramin-Alp^ and past the chalets of J£att (6179'). to the (4 hrs.) Foo Flaaa, 
or Bamin Pass (7333') j then descend by the Foo- Alp and the Unter-Siez- 
Alp (437T) to the Seez Valley and (3 hrs.) Weisstannen (p. 44, 3 hrs. from If els). 

To Vattis oveb thb Sabdoma Pass, 10-11 hrs., difficult, and rarely 
traversed (guide 30 fr.). From the Segnes Pass (see above) we clamber 
round the abrupt W. side of the Piz Segnes to the Sauren Glacier and 
the Sardona Pass (about 9680'), between the Piz Segnes and the Saurenstock 
(10,026'). Very steep descent to the Segnes Glacier, which we cross to the 
Sardona Glacier; then a rugged descent to the Sardona-Alp (5735'), in the 
Ka^/euser-Thal, 3 hrs. above V&Uis (p. 332). — Another difficult and labo- 
rious pass from Elm to Vattis (9-10 hrs.) is the Bcheibe Past, between the 
Saurenstock and the Grosse Scheibe (96200. — Oveb the Muttbnthalbb 
Gbat, 10-11 hrs. to Vattis, less difficult, but rough and fatiguing ^^de25fr.). 
From the (4 hrs.) Foo Pass (see above) we first descend to the Obere 
Foo-Alp, then ascend to the right through the Muttenthal to the basin of 
the HaibUtzli with a small tarn (76930, and thence to the (3 hrs.) pass, a 
gap in the Hnttenthaler Orat (about 82000. Rough descent over the 
Malanser Alp to (2 hrs.) St. Martin (44330 in the Kalfeuser Thai and (2 hrs.) 
VattU (p. 3K). 

To LiKTHTHAL, by the Biohetli Pass (74280, 8 hrs., not difficult ; *View 
of the Hausstock, Vorab, and Glamisch. Descent by the Dumachthal. 



II. LAKE OP LUCERNE AND ENVIRONS. 
THE ST. GOTTHARD. 



23. 



24. 
25. 



26. 
27. 
28. 



29. 



30. 



31. 



32. 



33. 



34. 



From Ziiricli to Zug and Lucerne 68 

i. Railway Journey 68 

ii. From Zurich to Zug via Horgen 69 

Lucerne 70 

Lake of Lucerne 74 

From Beckenried to Seelisberg, 76. — Kurhaus Seelis- 
berg. Seeliflberger Kulm, 77. — Morschacb, Axenfels, 
AxensteiD, Stoss, Frohnalpstock, 78. — Isenthal, Uri- 
Bothstock, 80. 

TheRigi 81 

Pilatus 88 

From Zug and Lucerne to Arth 90 

i. From Zug to Arth. Lake of Zug 90 

11. From Lucerne to Kussnacht and Arth 91 

From Wadenswyl to Einsledeln, Schwyz, and Brun- 

nen 92 

Ascent of the Goltschallenberg from Biberbruck, 92. — 
From Bapperswyl to Einsiedein ; the Etzel, 92. — From 
Sattel to Egeri and Goldau, 94. — From Einsiedein to 
Schwyz, crossing the Hacken or the Iberger Egg, 94, 95. 

From Lucerne to Belllnzona. St. Gotthard Railway . 95 
The Goldau Landslip, 96. — TheMythen, 97. — Schachen- 
thal; Ross-Stock; Erstfelder Thai, 98. — Bristenstock ; 
Hohe Faulen, 99. — The St. Gotthard Road from Amsteg 
to Ooschenen, 99. — From Airolo through the Val Piora 
to S. Maria and Disentis, 101. 

From Goschenen to Airolo over the St. Gotthard . . 104 
The Goschenen Valley, Passes to Realp, the Trift Gla- 
cier, and the Steinalp •, the Fleckistock. 104. — TheBadus 
or Six Madun; the Gurschenstock and Gamsstock, 106. 

— Lucendro Lake, 106. — The Piszo Centrales Prosa; 
Fibbia •, Piz Lucendro ; Sorescia, 107. — From the St. Gott- 
hard over the Orsino Pass to Realp, and over the Lecki 
Pass to the Furka, 107, 108. 

The Maderaner Thai 108 

Hiifigletfcher; DiLssistock'; Oberalpstock, etc., 109. — 
Clariden Pass; Hiifi Pass; Kammliliicke; Ruchkehlen 
Pass; Scheerhorn - Griggeli Pass; Brunni Pass, 110. 

From Goschenen to the Rhone Glacier. The Furka . 110 
From Realp over the Gavanna Pass to the Val Bedretto, 
111. — Tiefengletscher; Tiefensattel ; Winterlticke, 111. 

— Furkahom ; Galenstock ; Muttenhorn. From the Furka 
across the Rhone Glacier to the Grimsel Hospice, 112. 

From Lucerne to Altdorf by Stans and Engelberg. 

The Surgnen 112 

Stanser Horn; Buochser Horn, 113. — Excursions from 
Engelberg : Oberschwand ; Tatschbachfall ; Rigithalstock ; 
Engelberg«Bothstock ; Uri-Rothstock ; Titlis; Spannort, 
114, 115. — From Engelberg to Erstfeld over the Spannort- 



68 Route 23. AFFOLTERN. From Ziirieh 



joch or the Scblo88b«rglacke ^ to Wasen over the 
Grassen Pass; to the Steinalp over theWendenjoch, 115. 

35. From Lucerne over the Branig to Brienz (and Mei- 

ringen) 116 

From Lucerne to Alpnach-Gestad by land, 116. — BiLrgen- 
stock. Footpath from Stansstad to Sachseln, 117. — The 
Schwendi-Kaltbad \ the Helchthal i over the Storregg or 
the Juchli to Engelberg*, over the Tannenalp to the 
Engstlenalp ; and over the Laubergrat to M eiringen, 118. 

36. From Meiringen to Engelberg. Joch Pass 119 

From the Engstlenalp to the Melchthal *, Erzegg ; Hohen- 
stoUen, 120. — Ascent of the Titlis from the Engstlenalp, 
120. — From the Engstlenalp over the Satteli to the 
Qadmenthal, 121. 

37. From Meiringen to Wasen. Susten Pass 121 

Triftthal; excursions from the Trifthiitte (Dammastock, 
etc.) ; over the TrifUimmi to the Rhone Glacier ; Furt- 
wang-Sattel and Steinlimmi, 121, 122. — From the 
Stein Inn over the Sustcnlirami to the Goschenenalp ; 
Brunnenstoek, 122. 

38. From Lucerne to Bern. Entlebuch. Emmenthal . . 123 

Schwarzenberg; Bramegg B.oute; the Napf, 123. — The 
Schimberger Bad. Ascent of the Brienser Rothhom 
from Schiipfheim, 124. 

39. From Lucerne toLenzburg (and Aarau) byHochdorf. 
Aargau and Lucerne 'SeethaV Railway 125 

Excursions from Hochdorf: Hohenrain; Horben; Ober- 
reinach, etc., 126. — From Hitzkirch to Wohlen by 
Fahrwangen, 126. — From Beinwyl to Bcinach and 
Menzikon; Homberg, 126. — From Boniswyl to Fahr- 
wangen; Brestenberg, 126. 



S8. From Ztirich to Zng and Lucerne. 

Comp. Map*., pp. 36^ 74. 

1. Bailway Jonmey. 

41 Vz M. Railway to Zug in IV2 hr. (4fr. 5, 2 fr. 85, 2 fr. 5 c); to 
Lucerne in 2i/s hrs. (7 fr., 4fr. 90, 3 fr. 50 c.; return-tickets at reduced rates). 

On leaving the station the train crosses the 8%hl, and at (2^2 M-) 
Altstetten diverges from the Bale line (p. 18). To the left rises the 
long Uetliberg (^, 36), which the line skirts in a wide curve. To 
the right the pretty valley of the Limmat. 51/2 M. Vrdorf; 8 M. 
Birmensdorf, We now follow the pleasant Reppisch-Thal. To the 
left the hotel on the Uetliberg. The train ascends through a tunnel 
under the Ettenberg to (12 M.) Bonstetten-Wettsehwyl (ISOdO. To 
the right the Bernese Alps and Pilatus ; and to the left, farther on, 
the Engelberg Alps, with the Uri-Rothstock and the Titlis, become 
visible. 14 M. Hcdingen; 151/2 M. AffoUem (Lowe). To the left 
rises the Aeugater Berg (2723^), at the foot of which lie Aeugat and 
the Batha of Wengi. 18 M. Meitmenstetten (1550'). 

Diligence daily in 50 min. to Hansen (1980*; *LSiDe)^ at the W. base 
of the Albis (p. 37); near it the hydropathic Curhaus of Albitbrunn. Near 



to Lucerne. ZUG. 23. Route. 6^ 

I<9pe/, 11/2 M. to the S., on the road to Baar (p. 70), Zwingli was slain 
on llfh Oct. 1531, in battle against the Bom. Gath. cantons (comp. p. S6). 

20 M. Kfwnau (Adler). Ne&i Zug we c^oss the Loncy which 
deseends from the Egeri-See (p. 94). 

241/2 M. Zug (1384'; pop. 4924; ♦fliracft, R. 2-3, D, incl. 
wine, 3, pens. 4 fr., R. extra; *Zureherhofi BeUevue; *Oeht; Folk; 
Krone; *Ldwe, on the lake, R., L., & A. 2 fr. 70 c, B. 1 fr., good 
beer in the reetanrant; Linde; Hdtel Bahnhof, with garden restau- 
rant; Pens. Ouggithal., on the road to Felsenegg), the capital of 
the smallest Swiss oanton, with six churches and six chapels, lies 
on the lahe of that name. The Church of the Capuchins contains 
an Entombment by Calvaert. In the Arsenal are preserved ancient 
captured weapons and flags , and the standard stained with the 
blood of its bearer Peter Collin, who fell atArbedo in 1422. At the 
S. end of the town, on the lake, is the Hospital^ built In 1854. 
Handsome new Government Buildings in the Renaissance style. 

Fine view from the ''Platzwehr% or quay. Good Lake Baths. 

Steamboat on the Ldke of Zvg to Arth^ see P> 91. 

On the W. slope of the Zuger Bergy IV2 hr. from Zug (good road *, om- 
nibus from the station at 11 and 6; fare 2V2fr.), are the "'Kurhaus Felsenegg 
(3025'; pens. 7-8 fr.), with a very fine view towards the W., and (5 min. far- 
ther) the ^Kurhaus SohSnfels (B. iVz-S, pens. 7V2-9 fr.), with pleasant 
gronndf, also comnMinding a beautiful view. This spot is recommended 
for a prolonged stay ; pleas ant wood- walks. The (V* hr.) **HochujacM (3Ilffil'), 
the summit of the Zuger Berg, commands a complete survey of the Alpine 
chain ; below us, to the £., lies the Lake of Egeri (p. 94). — Pretty walks 
also to the (20 min.) Hilnguiocl and the Q;% hr.) * HorhachgHUch (3071'), 
which affords a charming view of the lakes of Zug and Lucerne and the 
Rigi. — At Menzingen in the pretty valley of the Lorte^ i^/2 M. to the E. of 
Zug (diligence twice daily), is the 'Behfinbrunn Hydropathic, well fitted up. 

The train backs out of the station and skirts the flat N. bank of 
the Lake of Zug (p. 96), crosses the Lone near its influx into the 
lake, and recrosses it at its efflux near (271/2 M.) Cham (*Rabe), a vil- 
lage with a slender zinc-covered church-tower and a large manufactory 
of condensed milk. Fine view of Zug to the left. On the hill above 
Zug are the summer resorts just mentioned ; in the middle distance 
rises the Rigi; and to the right are the Stanser Horn, the Engelberg 
Alps, and Pilatus. Beyond (31 M.) Bothkrens (Rail. Restaur.), the 
junction of the St. Gotthard (p. 96) and the Muri and Aarau (p. 20) 
lines, we enter the valley of the Reuss. 33 M. Oisikon. Through an 
opening to the left we survey the Rigi, from the Kulm to the Roth-* 
stock. 37 M. Ebikon. To the right rises the Hundsrucken. The train 
skirts the Roihsee, 1^2 ^' long, and crosses the Reuss by a bridge 
178 yds. long. The line now unites with the Swiss Central (p. 20) 
and the Lucerne and Bern lines (p. 123), and finally passes through 
a tunnel under the Giitsch (p. 74). 

411/2 M. Lueemey see p. 70. 

ii. From Zflrioh to Zug by Sorgen. 

Kailwat from Zurich to (11 M.) Horgen^ »/« ^^- (steamer in l*/* hr,, 



7 



70 RovXt^i. LUCERNE. 

see p. 37). Post Omnibds daily (8.50 a. m.) from Horgen to (12V3 M.) Zug 
in 2 hrs. 36 min.; carr. with one horse in 2 hrs., 12 fr. 

To Horgen (1394'), see pp. 38, 40. The road ascends in wind- 
ings, passing the Kurhaus JBocfcen, to (3 M.) Hauruthi. where, 
by the flnger-post, it joins the road from Wadenswyl. Several 
fine yiews of the lake, the Sentis, Speer, Gnrflrsten, and the 
Glarus Mts. About ^2 ^* f&^er we reach the saddle of the hill 
(2245'), and, at the top of the hill, the (1 M.) Inn Zum Morgenthal, 
at Hinel. We then descend gradually into the valley of the SiM, 
which separates the cantons of Zurich and Zug. The (2 M.) covered 
Sihl-Br&oke (1745'; *Krone, good wine) replaces one destroyed 

during the war of the Separate League in 1847. 

Pedestrians should take the road from Horgen over the Hosgeb Egg 
to the Sihlbriicke (iVz H.), which shortens the route by 2 M., and affords 
far finer views. Xear (2 M.) Wydenbach rises the ^Zimmerbebo (2536'), 
1/4 hr. to the right, with a beautiful view of the Lake of Zurich, the sombre 
valley of the Sihl, the Lake of Zug, the Alps, and particularly the My then, 
the Bigi, and Pilatus. About '/« 1^* beyond Wydenbach the road reaches the 
Hirtelhdhe (2415'*, Inn), its highest point, with another fine prospect. We 
join the high-road near the Sihlbriicke. 

The Zug road leads through an undulating tract, past the W. 
side of a wooded hill bearing the rains of the Baarburg (2086'). 
Beyond the wood (2 M.) we obtain a view of Baar , the Lake of 
Zug, the Rigi, and Pilatus. To the left, ^4 M. farther, on the 
Lorze, which we cross, is a large cotton-factory. The Rigi and Pila- 
tus now appear in all their grandeur. At (IV4 ^0 Baar (1453'; 
*Lindenhof ; Sennhof; Krone; Rossli) there is another large mill. 
A curious custom, not unknown in other parts of Switzerland, pre- 
vails here. On the occasional opening of the graves the skulls are 
conveyed by the relatives of the deceased to the charnelhouse, where 
they are kept in symmetrical piles. Then (21/2 M.) — 

1272 M. Zug, see p. 69. 

24. Lucerne. 

Sailway Station (PI. E, 5) on the left bank of the lake. The steam- 
boats to Fliielen generally touch here after leaving the Schweizerhof Quay ; 
those from Fliielen touch first at the station, and then at the quay. 

Hotels. *'ScHWBizEBH0F (PI. a), a spacious hotel admirably fitted up, 
with two ^d^pendances**, and ^Luzsbneb Hof (PI. b), both on the Schweizer- 
hof Quay, R., L., & A. from 5fr., B. IV2, D. 4»/2-5 fr. •, "Hotel National 
(PI. q), on the Quai National, R., L., A A. from 6, D. 5fr. ^ Hotel-Pensiok 
Beaubivagk (PI. r) and ^Hotkl de l'Eubopb, both on the lake, on the 
Halden-Strasse ^ "Enolischer Hof (PI. c); ^Schwan (PI. d), R., L.,, & A. 
4V2-5V2> D- ^Vafr- i*H6TELDuRior (PI. e), ad^joining the last (these three on 
the lake, on the right bank); "HdTSL du Lac (PI. g), on the left bank of 
the Reuss, not far from the station, R., L., & A. from 372? !>• S'/zi pens. 7V2-9 
fr. ; '^HCtel dd St. Qotthaed (Pl^), with restaurant, near tlie station, R-, 
L., & A. 3V2-4V2, B. IV2, B. 3V2fr. vTWage (Balakces, PI. f). near the third 
bridge over the Reuss, R., L., A A. 3i'2-4, B. IV2, D. 4. — Inexpensive: 
•Enoel, R. & a. 2V2, D. 3 fr. ; "Adleb (P1. h), R. IV2 fr.-, "Weisses RCssli 
(PI. i), R. & A. 2V2, B. IV4, D. incl. wine 3V2 fr.; *H6tel de la Posts 
(PI. k); Hotel des ALPKt (PI. n), R. & A. 2>/2-3fr. •, ^Hotkl Kuntz, Kap- 
pelgasse; ^Moub; Hirsch; "^Krong^ ^'Kreuz; "^Wilder Mann, R. & A. 2- 
2V2fr. ; *Raben ; Pfistern; *METZtiERN'. 



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Kursaal. LUCERNE. 24, Route. 71 

PensionB. *'Kaufmann; Waller d' JSchloss O'segnH-MaU; *' Villa O'segnet- 
Matt (Oelpke); TVfo/t (lake-baths, see below) ^ farther on, */See&ufv (steam- 
boat stat. ; p. 91). All these are on the Eiissnacht road, close to the lake. 
Belvedere i above Tivoli (pens. 5-7 fr.); Faller, above Beaurivage; *AV«- 
Schweizerhaut (Kost), loftily situated; Pen$i<m Anglaise (Alt-SchweUer- 
halts) ; Kost-Ha/liger^ Villa Deschwanden, Bramberg ^ d; Stoeker, near the 
Musegg-8tr. \ Hdt.-Pens. GUtsch (D. 3V2, pens. 8 fr.) and •Peiw. WallU^ on 
the Oatsch (p. 74), with charming view ; *Suter (pens. 5-6 fr.), on the hill 
of Gibraltar (p. 74); Behdnau^ on the Meggen-8tr., 2 M. from Lucerne. Still 
higher, to the 8. of Lucerne (railway to Kriens in 12 min., thence an ascent 
of */4 hr. ; one-horse carr. from Lucerne 12 fr. ; comp. p. 74) *Kurhau$ Son- 
nenherg^ with pleasant grounds and a fine view (7 fr. per day). Pen*. Stutz^ 
see p. 116. 

jEleataurants. *'Kuraaal (adm. free except when concerts are given); 
*'St. Gotthardy near the station, see above ; Ca/4 du Thidtre and Alpen- 
club , on the Reuss ; *Stadtho/; Hungaria (Hungarian wines) ; Cafi du Lae, 
by the. Protestant church; Cafi de» Alpe$ (with a few bedrooms), on the 
Schweizerhof-Quai. — Beer. *^Muth^ at the Weggis Gate ; Kreut (see above) ; 
Freierihof^ by the theatre, near the Kapellbriicke, on the left bank of the 
Reuss; Lbwengarteny near the Lion Monument. — Oonfeetioner. Berger, 
near the 8tadthof. 

Kursaal on the Quai National (PI. H 3), with reading, concert, and 
ball-rooms, restaurant, theatre, and garden. Band daily, 4.a0-6 p.m. Ad- 
mission 50 c.; for one day 1 rr. ; per week 6 fr., fortnight 10, month 15, 
whole season 30 fr. — Theatre (French operettas) : stalls 4 , pit and 
balcony 2 fr. 

Baths in the lake by the Quai National, above the Kursaal; swim-, 
ming 25, separate bath GO c. — Lake-baths also near the Tivoli (see above). 
Baths in the Beuss below the town, with swimming-basin. Warm baths 
at F elder- Lehmann's^ Spreuer-Briicke. 

Picture Gallery of the Kunet-GeulUchaft and Hiatorioal Kuaeum in 
the Rathhaus (p. 73), from Ist Jime to 15th Oct. (9-6 o'clock; adm. 1 fr.). 
— Troxler'g Exhibition of Painting* and Antiquities^ at the Fortuna, next 
the 8tadthof (adm. Vs &•)• 

Keyer'a Biorama (PI. 15), at the Weggis Gate, contains panoramas 
from the Rigi and Pilatus with different lights (adm. li/sfr.). 

Post and Telegraph Offices on the left bank of the Reuss, by the Jesuiten- 
kirche. Branch Office (diligence tickets and Poste Restante letters obtain- 
ed here only) on the Schweixerhof Quay , adjoining the Engl. Hof, where 
there is also a goods-agency and exchange-office. A new post-of Ace is about 
to be opened near the station. — Steamboats see pp. 74, 78, 91. 

Cabs. For 1/4 hr. , 1-2 pers. 80 c., 3-4 pers. 1 fr. 20 c. (to or from the 
station 1 or 2 fr.); for 1 hr., 2 fr. 50 or 3fr. 60 c. ; each box 30 c. — To 
Seeburg 11/2 or 2 fr. ; Meggen 3V2 or5fr. ; Kiissnacht 6V2 or 9fr. ; Hergis- 
wyl 4V2 or 6V2 fr. — From 10 p.m. to 6 a.m. double fares. 

Rowing Boats, usually 75 c. per far. ; for each boatman 75 c. ; to Weggis 
or Stansstad with two men 41/2 fr., 3 men 6 fr., 4 men 7i/s fr. ; Brunnen 
with 3 men 12 fr., with 4 men 15 fr., Ac. 

English Ohuroh Service in the Protestant Church in summer. Presby- 
terian Service in the Maria-Hilf Church, at 11 and 6. 

Beyond the striking beauty of its situation, Thorvaldsen's celebrated 
Lion (p. 72), and the Gletschergarten, Lucerne offers little inducement for 
a prolonged stay. The finest views are from the *'Gutsch (cable-tram, p. 
74), and from the (20 min.) *'Drei Linden. We ascend by the Lion Mon- 
ument to the right to the Capuchin Monastery on the WesemUn^ pass round 
the monastery to the right, and ascend by a path to the 'hill of the three 
limes'*, which commands a beautiful view of Lucerne, its environs, and the 
Alps with the Titlis in the centre, and the Finster-Aarhom and the 
Schreckhomer in the distance to the right. 

Lucerne (1437'; pop. 17,850), the capital of the canton of 
that name, lies on the Lake of Lucerne or Vierwaldstatter See , at 
the efflux of the Reuss. It is enclosed by well-preserved walls and 



72 Route 24. LUCERNE. Hafkirche. 

watch - toilers, erected in 1385, which give it a picturesque ap- 
pearance, while its amphitheatrical situation on the lake, between 
the Rigi and Pilatus, and facing the snow-clad Alps of Uri and 
Engelberg, is one of surpassing beauty. 

The clear, emerald-green Reuss issues from the lake with the 
swiftness of a torrent. Its banks are connected by four bridges. 
The handsome New Bridge, the highest, as iron bridge paved with 
stone, close to the end of the lake, crosses from the town to the 
railway-station. The second, the Kapellbrucke, carried obliquely 
across the stream, is covered with a roof, which is painted with 
154 scenes from the lives of St. Leodegar and St. Mauritius, the 
patron-saints of Lucerne, and from Swiss history. Adjoining the 
bridge, in the middle of the river rises the picturesque old Wasser- 
tliiinni containing the admirably arranged Municipal Archives. Ac- 
cording to tradition, this building was once a lighthouse (lucema), 
and gave its name to the town. St. Peters Chapel (PI. 11), at the 
N. end of the bridge, has four modern altar-pieces by Deschwanden. 

The third bridge, the BeuMbrucke, is of a more modern charac- 
ter. The fourth, the Mfthlen- or Spreaer-Braeke, is roofed like the 
first, and adorned with paintings of the 'Dance of Death'. — The 
Reuss and the lake are enlivened with swans and flocks of half- 
tame waterfowl (Fulica atra; black, with white foreheads). 

The *Sohweus6rlief Quay, with its fine avenue of chestnuts,' 

occupies the site of a bay of the lake which was filled up in 1852, 

and affords a delightful view. The stone indicator on a projecting 

platform points out the chief places in the environs. 

View. To the left the Bigi Group ; the highest point to the left is the 
Kulm with the hotels i on the saddle between the Kulm and the Eothstock 
is the Staffel Inn; more to the right the Schildy the Dossen^ and the 
isolated Vitznauer Stock. To the left of the Bigi, above the hills by the 
lake, rises the peak of the JRossberg; to the right of the Vitznauer Stock, 
in the distance, are the singularly indented peaks of the Ross-Stock Chain; 
then the Nieder-Bauen or Seelisberger Kulm and the Ober-Bauen; nearer 
are the dark Biirgenstock^ with its hotel, and the Buochser Horn; to the 
left and right of the latter tower the Engelberg Alps^ the last and highest to 
the right being the Tillis ; farther to the right the Stanserhorn^ the mountains 
of Kerns and Sachseln^ and to the extreme right Pilatus. 

On the new Quai National, which continues the Schweizerhof 
Quay to the E., is the Kursaal (see p. 71). 

The Gothic Protestant Church (PI. 10), at the back of the W. 
'd^pendance' of the Schweizerhof, was completed in 1861. 

On rising ground at the E. end of the quay is the *Hofkire]ie, 
or Stiftskirche (PI. 8), restored in the 17th cent., with two slender 
towers erected in 1506. It contains a fine pulpit, carved stalls, 
stained-glass windows, and two side-altars with reliefs in carved 
wood, that on the N. side representing the death of the Virgin 
(15th cent.). The Churchyard contains some good monuments. 
Frescos in the S.W. arcades by Deschwanden. 

Not far from the Stiftskirche, outside the (N.E.) Weggis Gate, . 
id V4^- ^^^^ tbo Schweizerhof, is the famous "XioxL of LuoemeX^ 



Bathfiaus. LUCERNE. 2d. Route. 73 

^1. 14), a most impressive work, executed in 1821 to the memory of 
i& oMceYs and about 760 soldiers of the Swiss guard, who fell in the 
defence of the Tuileries on 10th Aug., 1792. The dying lion (28' in 
length), reclining in a grotto, transfixed by a broken lance, and shelter- 
ing the Bourbon lily with its paw, is hewn out of the natural sandstone 
rock after a model (exhibited gratis in the adjoining building) by 
the celebrated Danish sculptor Thorvaldsen. Inscription : Hdvetio- 
rum fidei ac virtuU. Die XAug. , // et III Sept. 1 792. Haec sunt no- 
mrM. eotum, qui ne aaeramenti fidem fallerent, fottisBtme pugnantea 
ceciderunt. Duces XXVI. Solerti amicofum cur a eladi superfuerunt 
Duces XVI. The rock which bears the inscription and names of 
the officers is overhung with trees and creepers. A spring at the 
top flows down on one Bide and forms a dark pool at the base, sur- 
rounded by trees and shrubs. The monument is illuminated with 
Bengal lights every Saturday evening (1 fr.). The neighbouring 
Chapel (inscription , Invictis Pax) contains the escutcheons of the 
deceased officers. — The Lion Monument Museumy opposite the 
Lion, contains representations from the revolutionary period and 
an 'international picture gallery' (adm. ^2 ^r.). 

On the N. side of the monument is the entrance to the*01etscher- 
garten (adm. 1 fr.), a most interesting relic of the ice-period, 
with 32 holes formed by whirlpools , of different sizes (the largest 
being 26' wide and 30' deep), well-preserved 'Gletscherschlifife', 
or rocks worn by the action of the ice, etc., discovered in 1872, 
and connected by means of steps and bridges. A kiosque here 
contains Pfyffers Relief of Central Switzerland, on a scale of 51/3 
inches to the mile, 23' long, and 13' wide; in another there is a 
small collection of relics from lake-dwellings. 

To the right of the Lion Monument is Stauffer's Kuseum (PI. 25; 
adm. 1 fr.), containing about 600 stuffed Alpine animals in groups. 

The Bathhaus (PI. 1) contains some good carving, of 1605, 
and portraits of magistrates. On the ground-floor is a gallery of an- 
cient and modem Pictures (Ist June to 15th Oct. ; p. 69), and an 
^Historical and Art-Industrial Museum. 

The Museum contains the collections of the Historical Society, com- 
prising relics of the pre-historic, Celtic-Roman, Germanic and mediaeval 
periods; the armoury from the Arsenal, embracing weapons, flags, and 
trophiea of the battles of the 14th cent, and of the Burgundian and Mi- 
lanese wars; the Antiquarium of the Historical Society, consisting of 
various relics and representations of the places where they were found. 
Among the historical objects may be mentioned curiosities from tombs, 
^ic8 from the lake-dwellings, and an admirable bronze statue of Mercury. 
In the armoury is the coat-of-mail of Duke Leopold of Austria. A banner 
presented by Pope Julius II., and a chased sword-handle CTellenschwerf) 
of the I6th cent, should also be noticed. Here, too, is exhibited a ^Col- 
lection of Stained Olctss of the 14th-18th cent., including a series of armorial 
bearings of the 17th cent. 

A fresco on the tower represents the death of the magistrate 
Gnndolflngen at the Battle of Sempach. The Fountain inthe Wein- 
markt (PI. D, 3) dates from 1481. 

The JeBnit GhuToh (PI. 9), near the Post-offlce, contains an 



74 Route 25. LAKE OF LUCERNE. 

altar-piece in the second chapel to the right, representing St. Niko- 
lans von der Fliie (p. 118), behind which is the robe of the saint. 
-Y" The *&at8ch (1722'), a steep ascent at the N.W. end of the 
town (cable-train in 3 min., every V2 ^^' ; fare 30, return-ticket 
50 c), affords a splendid survey of the town, the lake, the Blgi, and 
the Alps of Uri, Unterwalden, and Engelberg. * Hotel and£e«tatir., 
with wooded grounds. — A pretty walk through the woods leads 
from the Gutsch to the (IV2 hr.) Kathavks Sonnenberg (p. 71), 
whence we may descend to (25 min.) Krient (*Pilatus) and take 
the train back to (12 min.) Lucerne. — The S.E. spur of the 
Gutsch is called Gibraltar (pens., see p. 71). 

25. Lake of Lucerne. 

Comp. also Map^ p. 80. 

Steamboat 6-7 times daily between Lucerne and Fliielen in 2s/4 hrs., 
express in 2V4 brs. (to Hertenstein 35 min., Weggis 45 min., Vitznau 1, 
Buochs IV4, Beckenried IV2, Gersau iV4, Treib 2, Brunnen 2 hrs. 5 min., 
Sisikon 2 hrs. 10 min., Isleten 2 hrs. 20 min., Bauen 2 hrs. 25 min., Tells- 
Platte 21/2 , Fliielen 2*/4 hrs. \ the steamers do not aJl touch at Herten- 
stein, Buochs, Treib, Sisikon, and Tells - Platte). Fare to Fliielen 3 fr. 
65 or 2 fr. 6Uc. ; return - tickets available for two days at a fare and a 
half i season-tickets still cheaper. Trunk 40-80 c, including embarcation 
and landing. All the steamers, except the quick boat at 5.30 a.m., touch 
at the railway-station of Lucerne after leaving the quay (comp. p. 70). Grood 
restaurants on board. Time-tables and useful maps of the lake to be had 
at the ste amb oat-offices gratis. 

The **Lake of Lucerne (1434'; Vierwaldstatter See, or 'Lake of 
the Four Forest Cantons'), which is bounded by the 'forest cantons' 
of Uri, Schwyz, Unterwalder^ , and Lucerne, is unsurpassed in 
Switzerland, and even in Europe, in magnificence of scenery. Its 
beautiful banks are also intimately associated with those historical 
events and traditions which are so graphically depicted by Schiller 
in his William Tell. The lake is nearly cruciform in shape, the bay 
of Lucerne forming the head, the bays of Kiissnacht and Alpnach 
the arms, and those of Buochs and Uri the foot. Length from Lu- 
cerne to Fliielen 23 M. , from Alpnach to Kiissnacht at the ex- 
tremities of the arms 12^/2 M . ; width Vz-l'Vi ^ • 5 greatest depth 700' . 

Rowing or Sailing Boats are seldom used by travellers, being badly 
constructed and uncomfortable. Tari£f at the inns on the lake. — ' The wind 
on the lake is apt to change with extraordinary rapidity, and the boatmen 
declare that it blows from a different quarter as each promontory is 
rounded. The most violent is the Fdhn (S. wind), which sometimes renders 
theS. bay of the lake impracticable for sailing or rowing-boats, and dangerous 
even for steamboats. In fine weather the Bite CS. wind) usually prevails 
on the bay of Uri from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., and a gentle S. wind during 
the rest of the day. 

Soon after leaving Lucerne the steamer affords a strikingly pic- 
turesque view of the town, with its towers and battlements. To 
the left rises the Rigi, to the right Pilatus, and facing us the 
Biirgenstock, the Buochser Horn, and the Stanser Horn ; to the left 
of Pilatus, above the hills of Sachseln, the Wetterhorn, the Schreck- 
horner, the Monch, Eiger, and Jungfrau gradually become visible. 



VITZNAU. 2S, Route. 75 

but the Finsteraarhorn is hidden. The small promontory to the 
left, with a pinnacled villa, is the Meggenhom. In front of it lies 
Altstad ('old shore') , an islet planted with poplars , so named be- 
cause the bank of the lake formerly extended to this point, while 
both banks of the Renss lower down were mere marshes. Frag- 
ments of an old custom-house are still to be seen on the island. 

Beyond the Meggenhorn the lake of Kiissnacht opens to the 
left, and the bay of Stansstad to the right, and we have now reach- 
ed the central part (^Kreuztrichter') of the cross formed by the lake. 
In the distance to the left, Ku88nacht(j^. 91) is visible; in the fore- 
ground, NeU'Habsburg (p. 91). To the right the dark, forest-clad 
Burgenstock (3720^) rises abruptly from the water (see p. 113"). 
From this part of the lake the Pilatu8(jp. 88) is very striking. Its 
barren, rugged peaks, seldom free from cloud or mist, frown grimly 
over the cheerful landscape, in marked contrast to the Bigi on the 
opposite bank, the lower slopes of which are covered with gardens, 
fruit-trees, and houses, and the upper with woods and green pastures. 

Beyond the promontory of Tanzenberg, in a small bay to the left, 
Is the handsome ^Pension Schloss Hertenstein (7-8 fr.) ; on a tongue 
of land beyond it is the ruined castle of Hertenstein, amidst wood. 
Facing us, in the distance, peeps the double-peaked Scheerhom 
(p. 62). Stat. Hertenstein (*Pens. Hertenstein, dependance of 
Pension Schloss Hertenstein, and reached either on foot through 
the park in 10, or by boat in 5 miu.). Then — 
^ Weggis — Hotels. *H6t. du Lac, pens. 6-9 fr. 5 *Lowe, R. 2, 1). 3, 
peas. 6-7 fr. ; ^Post, at the steamboat-quay, '^Bellevue, finely situated 
'/4 M. to the W., 8-9 fr., adapted for a stay of some time; Pens. Belve- 
DEEE & Villa KOhler, with garden, pens, from 6 fr. ; Dr. Gerig's 'Paradif.s' 
Peks.; 'Hot. -Pens. Lutzelau (see below). 

WeggiSf a thriving village in a very sheltered situation, the 
garden of Lucerne, was formerly the usual landing-place for the 
Rigi (comp. pp. 81, 84). 

A road to the N. leads to (2 M. ; or a path to the right, passing the 
church, in V2 hr. to) Oreppen (p. 91). Between the road and the path 
(which ascends for 1/4 hr. at the schoolhouse of Weggis) rises the Rigi- 
blick, a grassy hill affording a fine survey of the lake. — Beautiful walk to 
the E., by the road skirting the lake, to Liltzelau CPens., 5 fr.) and 
(3 M.) VUznau. A new road continues from Vitznau by the Obere Hase 
(6ne view of the lake) to (1 hr.) Oersatt and past the Kindlimot'd Chapel 
(p. 76) to (1V« hr.) Brunnen. 

Nearing Vitznau, we observe on the hill-side to the left the rail- 
way-bridge across the Schnurtobel (p. 82), and high above it the 
Hdtel Rigi-First (p. 87). Vitznau (*H6t. ^ Restaur. Rigibahn, 
R., L., &A.3V2, B.IV4, pens. 6-7 fr.; Hdt.-Pens. Pfyffer, pens. 5-7 
fr. ; *H6tel Rigi, R. 2-21/2, D. 3, pens. 5-6 fr.,- Pens. Zimmermann 
turn Kreuz), prettily situated at the base of the Vitznauer Stock, 
is the terminus of the Rigi Railway (p. 82). High above the vil- 
lage rises the precipitous Rothfluh, with the Waldisbalnij a stalactite 
grotto 330 yds. long, but difficult of access. 

Beyond Vitznau two rocky promontories, aptly called the Nasen 



76 Route 25» GERSAU. Lake of 

(noses), and perhaps once united, project far into the lake, apparently 
terminating it , the one being a spur of the Rigi , the other of 
the Biirgenstock fp. 117). Beyond the E. Nase the snowy pyramid 
of the Todi (p. ol), and more to the left, above the Pragel, the 
Glarnisch (p. 64) become yisible. Beyond this strait the lake is 
called the Buoehser See, from Buoehs (* Krone; Hirseh; "^Restaur. 
Kreuzgdrten), a village to the right, which was burned down by 
the French in 1798. Above Buochs rise the Buoehser Horn and 
the Stanser Horn (see p. 113). All the steamers do not touch at 
Buochs. Between Buochs and Beekenried (pretty walk of ^^4 hr.) 
extensive operations have been carried out to regulate the torrents 
descending from the Buochser Horn and the Schwalmis. 

Beekenried (*8onne; *Mondj R. &A.2, B. 1, pens. 7fr.; ♦i^td- 
waldner Hofy pens. 6-8 fr. ; Adler), on the S. bank, where the 
delegates from the Four Forest Cantons used to assemble. (There 
are two piers here : one near the ^Sonne' for the steamers to Fluelen, 
the other by the 'Mond' for those to Lucerne.) In front of the church 
rises a fine old walnut-tree. In the neighbourhood are several 

cement-factories and the picturesque Rieeten Waterfall. 

One-horse carriage to Engelberg (p. 114) 18 fr., two-horse 30 fr. (from 
Buochs 15 or 25 fr.)i to Stans 6 or 12, Stansstad 8 or 15, Alpnach 11 or 
18, Grafenort 12 or 20, Seelisberg 13 or 25, Schonegg 6 or 12, Brienz 35 or 
55 fr., and fee. 

FsoH Bbokenkibd to Skelisbbbg [(23/4 hrs.). The iroad leads by the 
(84 hr.) charmingly situated ^Pension SchSneck (water and whey-cure, board 
6 fr.) to (V4 hr.) the village of Emmetten (2580'; Post, Engel, both well 
spoken of; Stern; pens, at all three 6 fr.); then through a somewhat 
monotonous dale between the Stutxberg and Ifiederbauen (p. T7) past Uie 
picturesque Seeli to the (I'/i hr.) Kurhaus Seelisberg and (8 min.) the vil- 
lage of SeeKsberg (p. T?). 

On the opposite bank, on a fertile strip of land between the 
Vitznauer Stock and the Hochfluh, lies the pretty village of Gersau 
(*H6t.'Pen8. Muller, R. 2-4, D. 3V2, pens. from9fr. ; *OersauerHof; 
Hirsch ; Sonne ; *Zur Ilge, plain), in the midst of orchards, with 
its broad-eaved cottages scattered over the hill-side. It was an 
independent canton down to 1817, when it was annexed to Canton 
Schwyz. The village, being protected from cold winds, is a resort 
of invalids. In the ravine behind it is a silk-spinning mill , and 

on the mountain above is the Rigi-Scheidegg Kurhaus (p. 81). 

After the church-festival a kind of ^diet" used formerly to be held 
at Gersau by all the beggars of the surrounding country, accompanied 
by merry-makings which lasted for three days. — Path to the ^i^t- 
Scheidegg^ see p. 87. — To (41/2 M.) Brunnen (p. 78) a beautiful walk by 
the road skirting the lake. 

The chapel on the bank to the E. of Gersau is called Kind-^ 
limord ('infanticide') from the tradition that a poor fiddler killed 
his starving child here by dashing it against the rock indicated by a 
black cross. To the E. rise the bare peaks of the two Mytheny at the 
base of which, 3M. inland, lies Schwys (p. 94) ; nearer is the church 
"^f Ingenhohly and in the distance to the right the Achaelherg or Acks- 
^stock (7057'), with its crown of rooks resembling a castle. 



Lueeme, SEELISBERG. 25. Route. 77 

The steamer now crosses to Treib (^Inn^ rustic), in Canton Uri, 
at the foot of the precipitous Sonnenberg, the landing-place for the 
village of Seelisberg (2628'; *H6i.-Pen8. Hauser; Pens. Aschwanden^ 
immediately hehind the church, 5 fr., unpretending; Zum Lowen) 
on the hill above, to which a road leads in I1/4 hr, (one-horse carr. 
5, two-horse 10, to the Kurhaus 6 or 12 fr., with fee of 2 fr.). 
The more direct footpath ascends to the left behind the inn (50 
min. ; steep but shady most of the way). By the Chapel of Maria- 
Sonnenberg (2772'), 12 min. from the church of Seelisberg, is the 
Pension Oriitli (6 fr.) , and near it the little Hotel Mythenstein, 
beside which is the ^Kurhaus Seelisberg or Sonnenberg (2772' ; 
three houses, with 300 beds; pens. 10-11, A. 1/2 f'*)? * sheltered 
spot with pure mountain air, and a favourite health-resort. 

Beautiful view from the Kanzli (in the wood to the right at the S. 
end of the Kurhaus, '/« hr.), over the lake and the plain as far as the 
Weiagenstein. — Ahout V2 hr. 8.W. of the Kurhaus lies the picturesque little 
Seelisberger See, or ^Seelf ('little lake", 2471'; with bath-house), on the 
precipitous N. side of the *Niederbauen, or Seelisberger Kulm (6316'; guide 
5 fr. and fee), which may be ascended from the Kurhaus in 3 V2-4 , from 
Beroldingen in 3, or from Emmetten in 31/3 hrs. (see below). Starting 
from the Kurhaus, we follow the Emmetten road towards the K^., passing 
the Seeli \ after V2 hr. we ascend to the left towards the base of the Bauen, 
by a steep and narrow path, which is particularly uncomfortable after 
rain. Fart of the ascent, which is suitable for mountaineers only, is through 
wood. — The ascent from Beroldingen (see below; good guide, Peter Bissig, 
at the 'Schlosschen'*) to the right, rounding the summit of the Kulm, and 
leading high above the Seelisberg Lake, is steep, toilsome, and giddy (3 hrs. 
in all ; for adepts only). The preferable route leads from Beroldingen to 
the left, round the Kubn, and over the UnoUngi-Alp (also 3 hrs.). — The 
ascent is easier from EmmeUen (p. 76; experts may dispense with a guide). 
The shortest way (3 hrs.) leaving the village at the S. end, follows for a 
short distance the right bank of the Kohlthal brook, and then passes 
between some houses ; after 20 min. we turn to the right and follow the 
tolerably good and distinct path towards the middle of the rocky arSte 
at -the W. end of the mountain. From the (IV4 hr.) top we enjoy a fine 
view of the lake of Lucerne. Thence along the ridge in IV2 hr. to the 
summit. — An easier route, but V2 hr. longer, diverges to the left at 
the church (I1/4 hr. from the Kurhaus) and ascends the Kohlthal to a gate 
near some chalets (1 hr.). After 2 min. more we cross the bridge io the 
left, and ascend by a good but steep zigzag path for 20 min., at first over 
a grassy slope, and then entering the wood to the left; 7 min., a bridge 
over a cleft; 10 min., a chalet (the path leading to the right of the hill 
with a cross). We ascend the slopes beyond the chalet to (V4 hr.) a gate ; 
for 12 min. more we walk towards the Bauen, visible to the E., and then 
descend a little to a second chalet. Farther on we pass to the right of 
a stone stable on the hill ; 40 min. , third chalet (rustic tavern) ; lastly in 
zigzags, the best route being round the Bauen, to the pole on the top in 
40 min. more. Magnificent view of the entire Lake of Lucerne from liU- 
cerne to Fliielen, of the Uri - Bothstock, the Bristenstoek, Todi, Scheer- 
hom, Windgallen, etc., and of the Beussthal as far as Amsteg. The di- 
stant view, however, is inferior to that from the Rigi. Early in the 
morning nearly the whole ascent from Emmetten is in shade. 

Those who desire to walk from iSeelisberg to Bauen^ on a bay of Lake Uri, 
and thence to cross the lake to Teirs Platte or Fliielen, go straight on from 
Sonnenberg (finger-post). After -^/4hr. we diverge to the left to the (6 min.) 
^3ehtcdndi/luh (an admirable point), the perpendicular rocks of which are 
the Teu/elsmUnster of Schiller's Tell (Act iv, Sc. 1). Returning to the main 
path, we descend, without turning either to the right or to the left, to 
(»/4 h.) the little chateau of Beroldingen, and thence by a safe, though steep 



78 BouU 25. BRUNNEN. . Lake of 

and rather uncomfortable path to (1 hr.) Bauen (Tell, poor). Boat from 
Bauen to Tellsplatte 2, Riitli 3, Fliielen 4 fr. (higher charges at the 
*Teir). — Path to the Riitli, see p. 79. 

Opposite Treib, on the E. bank, lies the large village of — 

Bnumen. — *Wald8Tattkb Hof, on the lake, with baths, R., L., 
& A. 3-5, D. 4, pens. 8-11 (in spring, 7-9 fr.)^ *H6t.-Pen8. Adlbb, *H6t.-Peks. 
HiBSCH, at the steamboat quay, B., L., ii A. 2-3, ^pens.' from 7 fr.; ^Rossli, 
Brunnebhof, both near the quay, pens. 6 fr. ; ^Hot.-Penb. Actdebmaub, 
6 min. from the lake, with gardens and fine view, pens. 8-10 fr.: *Pens. 
GtTscH, with fine view, unpretending ; *Pen8. du Lac, V4 M. to the W. of the 
village, 4>/2-6 fr. •, Pens. Bellevue (6 fr.) and Pens. Mythbnstein, (6V« fr.), 
both on the Axenstrasse, close to the lake; Hot. Bahnhqf, Euw, Rosek- 
oabten , *Fkeihof, Sonne, Rutli, and others, homely. — Restaurant 
Zur Drossel, near the quay. 

RowiNo Boats : to Treib and back with one boatman 1 fr., with two 
2 fr.; Riitli (and back) 21/2 or 4, Tellsplatte 3 or 6, Rutli and Tellsplatte 
5 or 8 fr. 

Baths (warm and lake-baths) at the Waldstatterhof (lake bath and 
towel, 50 c). — Good and cheap wood-carving at LeuihoWs, by the steam- 
boat-pier, and at Aufdermauer's, on the Axenstrasse. — Eng. Ch. Sebv. 
at the Waldstatter Hof. 

Brunnenj the port of Canton Schwyz, a station on the St. Gott- 

hard Railway (p. 97), and one of the most beautiful places on the 

lake, is partly situated in a flat and marshy valley near the mouth 

of the Muota. The old Susthaus, or goods-magazine, is decorated 

with quaint frescos. 

The GKitsch, a height behind Brunnen, overlooks the two arms of 
the lake and the pretty valley of Schwyz. — Shady walks in the neigh- 
bouring woods. — From Brunnen to Morschach a good carriage-road (in 
shade in the morning) ascends in 1 hr. from the Axenstrasse. The shady 
footpath which diverges at the guide-post to the left before the road cuts 
off a long curve. 50 Min. "Hdiel Axenfels (about I960'; R. from 2^2, 
D. 4, 'pens.' 7 fr.) with gardens and a fine view. A few min. farther on 
is the charmingly situated hamlet of {Kfiafilvuih^ (2155^ ; 4»>{/ -f^ffff, fw>;^«- 
alp, with gardens, pens, from 5 fr. ; J^efiJA. BeUscha rU moderate ; Pens. 
Degenbalm, beautifully situated on a eminence" 10 min'. above the village, 
pens, from 5 fr.). The road then ascends to the left, immediately behind 
the Hot. Frohnalp, passing the Pent. RUtliblick (fine view) to (10 min.) 
the spacious '^Eurhaua Azenstein, a hotel and pension (R. 3-4, D. 4, pens. 
10-22 fr. ; Eng. Ch. Serv.)j splendidly situated on the Brandli., with a mag- 
nificent '^'^Survey of both arms of the lake. Beautiful shady grounds close 
to the hotel, containing numerous erratic blocks and interesting traces of 
glacier-action. Strangers are admitted to the park, but if residing at the 
Hdtel Axenfels only on payment of 9 fr. Besides the road, there is a 

Sath from the Oiitsch to the hotel, for the most part in shade (s/4 hr.) 
mnibuses run between the Axenstein and Axenfels hotels and the station 
and pier at Brunnen (50 min., 2V2 fr-; one-horse carr. 5, two-horse 10 fr.). 
The Stoos (42420, theN. spur of the Frohnalp ("^urAaKj, R., L., & A. 31/2, 
pens 7-10 fr.), another good point of view, with varied walks, is reached 
by a road (in shade in the morning for most of the way) from Morschach 
in 2hrs. (carr. and pair from Brunnen in 2V4 hrs., 20 fr.; there and back 
25-30 fr.). — The 'Frohnalpatock (6270'; small Inn, five beds), IV2 hr. S. 
of the Stoos, reached by a rough path (milk at a chalet half-way), affords 
a magnificent view of the lakes of Lucerne and Zug. The panorama of 
mountains is, however, inferior to that from the Niederbauen. 

Other excursions from Brunnen: to the Lake of Lowerz (p. 96) by 

Wylen, and back by Schwyz (p. 96) ; to the Muotathal (p. 63) ; by Ibach, 

on the left bank of the Miiota, and back by the right bank; by the 

Axenstrasse (p. 79) to Fliielen (9 M. ; best by carr. , the road being 

hadeless as far as TelFs Platte; to Fliielen with one horse 8fr.); to the 



Lucerne. LAKE OF URI. 25, Route. 79 

Kindlimord Chapel (p. 76) and Oersau (p. 76); to the Biitli (see below); 
to Seelisberg (p. 77); to the Mythen (p. 97), etc. 

At Brunnen begins the S. arm of the lake, called the Timer See 
01 *La]ce of Uri. The mountains now rise very abruptly , and the 
lake narrows. Lofty peaks, often snow -clad, peep through the 
gorges which open at intervals. By the sharp angle which juts into 
the lake from the W. bank rises the Wytensteiny or Mytensieiny 
a pyramid of rock, 80' high, bearing an inscription in huge gilded 
letters to the memory of Schiller, the 'Bard of Tell*. On the N. 
side is an inscription to a young Swiss officer, who accidentally lost 
his life here. A little farther, below Seelisberg (p. 77), and 10 min. 
above the lake, are the three springs of the Butii, or Grutli, trick- 
ling from a rock overgrown with vegetation. This spot , with the 
adjacent timber-built *Inn in the old German style and pretty 
grounds, belongs to the Confederation. 

On this plateau, on the night of 7th Nov., 1307, thirty-three men, from 
Uri, Schwyz, and Unterwalden, assembled and entered into a solemn league 
for the purpose of driving their oppressors from the soil. Tradition relates 
that these three fountains sprang up on the spot where the three confederates, 
Werner Stauffacher of Steinen in Schwyz, Erntf (Arnold) an der Halden of 
Melchthal in Unterwalden, and Walter FUrat of Attinghausen in Uri, stood 
when the oath was taken. — ^.A good path ascends in 1 hr. from the Biitli 
to the Kurhavs Seelisberg (p. 77). 

On the E. bank of the lake runs the *AxenBttaj»e, leading from 
Brunnen to (9 M.) Fliielen, and remarkable for the boldness of its 
construction , being to a great extent hewn in the rock. Below, 
parallel with, or above the road, runs the 8t. Ootthard Railway 
(p. 97), skirting the lake in a succession of tunnels and cuttings. 

About 1/4 hr. after leaving Brunnen the steamer touches at Sisi- 
kon (Pens. Urirothstock, unpretending) on the E. bank. Through 
the Riemenstaldenthal (p. 64), on the opposite bank, we observe 
the bare Achslenstock (7057 ). We next reach stat. Tell's Platte 
(^Restaurants with baths, at the landing-place), 8 min. above which, 
on the Axenstrasse, is the *H6tel- Pension zur Tellsplatte (pens. 
6fr.), with pleasure-grounds and a charming view. A little to the 
S. of the landing-place is a ledge of rock at the base of the Axen-' 
berg (BBSS'), where, shaded by overhanging trees and washed by 
the lake, stands the romantic TelPs Chapel, rebuUt in 1880, and 
adorned with four frescos by Stiickelberg of Bide (protected by a 
railing on the side next the lake ; private path to it from the pier 
20 c/). It is said to have been originally erected by Canton Uri in 
138o on the spot where the Swiss liberator sprang out of Gessler's 
boat. On Friday after Ascenslonday at 7 a.m. mass is performed 
here, and a sermon preached, the service being attended by the 
inhabitants of the neighbourhood in gaily decorated boats. Near the 
chapel the lake is upwards of 700' deep. The grandest part of the 
Axenstrasse is betiieen Toll's Platte Inn and Fliielen (21/2 M.), 
where it pierces the curiously contorted limestone strata of the 
Axenfluh, 360' above the lake, by means of a *Tunnel. Beyond the 



80 Route 25. ISENTHAL. 

chapel Fliielen (which the steamer reaches in 1/4 ^' more) becomes 
visible. The scenery of this part of the lake is very striking. Oppo- 
site the chapel, on the W. bank, lies the hamlet of Bauen (p. 78), 
and, farther on, the dynamite-factory of IsUten, at the mouth of the 
Isenthal. On the saddle between the two peaks of the Uri-Rothstock. 
which rise above the Isenthal, lies a glacier, distinctly visible from 
the steamer; to the left of it the Oitschen (8334') rises abruptly from 
the lake, with its summit resembling a castle. Beyond Fllielen the 
Reussthal appears to be closed by the pyramidal Bristenstock, with 
the KUine and Grosse WindgdUe to the left of it (p. 110). 

The Isenthal (see Map , p. 114) may be reached from Fluelen or 
Altdorf on foot in 3 hra. \it Seedorf (p. 81), by a path skirting the 
lake and ascending to the site of the Fruttkapelle (21880i with a pictar- 
esqne view, where the path turns to the left into the valley ^ or by the 
steamer from Fluelen (starting at 1.20 p.m.) which touches at Isleten daily -, 
or by small boat from Fluelen \ or, best of all, by boat from TelFs Platte 
in i/i hr. (2-4 fr.). From Bauen (see above) a pleasant path , affording 
splendid views of the lake, ascends round the slope of the Furkelen 
direct to Isenthal in V/2 hr. — The path ascending from Isleten unites 
at the Fruttkapelle with the path from Seedorf. AfaHOut 1 hr. from Isleten 
we reach the prettily situated village of Itenlhal (2452'; *Adler; Jos. 
Bissig and Alb. Imfanger, good guides). The valley divides here into the 
Orossthal to the right and the Kleinthal to the left. — Through the Gkoss- 
THAL, in which lies the Alpine hamlet of St. Jakob^ we may either proceed 
to the W., passing between the Hoke Brisen (7894') and the Kaiser stulil 
(7877'), over the SchUnegg Pass (6316'), to Ober-Rickenbach and (5V2 hrs.) Wol- 
/enschiessen (p. 113); or to the 8.W., over the RotJtgrdtli (8420') between 
the Engelberg-Rothstock and the ffasenstoek to (10 hrs.) \Engelberg (p. 114). 
The Engelberg-Rothstock (9252') may be ascended without difficulty from 
the Rothgratli in V^ hr. (comp. p. 115). 

Through the Kleinthal leads the usual route to the summit of the 
Uri-Rothstock (6V2-7 hrs.; not easy; guide 12, or with descent to Engel- 
berg 25 fr. and fee). A fatiguing path leads to the NeUnalp and (2 hrs.) 
Musenalp (4885') ; then a toilsome ascent of precipices of slate-rock to the 
top of the Kessel (8458'); lastly, up the Mittelgr&tli^ or round it towards 
the £., across the Kleinthal Olacier and up the arete separating it from 
the Bliimlisalp aiacier, to the summit of the "TJri-Kotliatock (9620*). An 
easier, but longer route through the Grossthal, passing St. Jakob and the 
Schlostfelsen ^ ascends by a steep and rough path to the (3 hrs.) Hang- 
baum-Alp (5659'), grandly situated (fine cascades), where the night is spent 
(hay-beds) ; thence over pastures., loose stones, and the BWmlisalp.fim to the 
ridge between the Grossthal and Kleinthal ; and lastly up the arete towards 
the W. to the summit (3-4 hrs. from Hangbaum). The mountain-group which 
culminates in the Uri-Rothstock and the Brunnistock (9683'), like the Titlis, 
is almost perpendicular on the £. and S.E. sides (towards the Gitschenthal 
and Surenen), and is composed of gigantic and fantastically contorted lime- 
stone rocks. The view from the summit is exceedingly grand : to the S. the 
chain of the Alps, with the Sentis at their E. extremity ; at our feet, 8(XX)' 
below, the Lake of Lucerne; to the N.E. and N. the Rigi, Pilatiis, and the 
Entlebuch Mts., the lower hills of N. Switzerland, and the plains of 8. Ger- 
many. — The descent (an easy and attractive glacier expedition) may be 
made by the Bliimlisalp Glacier, the Schlossstock-Lileke^ and the Rothstock- 
Lilcke to* the (3 hrs.) Plemkenalp Club-hut, and to (2 hrs.) Engelberg (p. 114). 

Piaelen, Ital. Fiora (*Kreuz, R., L., & A. 3, B. IV4 fr- ; *TeU, 

R. 2, B. 1 fr. ; Adler,- all near the quay; Stem. — Rail. Restau- 

rant; lake-baths on the Axenstrasse, 72 M. off), is the port of Uri, 

Tid a station (close to the pier) on the St. Gotthard Railway (p. 97). 



BIGI. 26. SouU, 81 

Beyond the chinch is the small chateau of Rudenz which once he- 
longed to the Attinghansen family. The Beuas, which falls into the 
lake hetween Fliielen and Seedorf, has heen 'canalized' here to 
prevent inundations Q/2 hr.'s walk, or Y4 hr. hy boat to its influx). 

26. The Eigi. 

The Xonntain Bailways which aaeend the Bigi from Yitznaa and from 
Arth are now used by the vast majority of travellers who visit this 
justly famous and most admirable point or view. The jonmey is farther 
facilitated by the numerous trains and steamboats wbich connect Arth 
and Vitznau with places both near and distant, so that a visit to the 
Rigi and hack may now be accomplished easily from Lucerne or Zurich 
in one day. The ascent from VitznaUf which is more convenient for many 
travellers, affords beautiful views all the way, while that from Arth offers 
the advantage that the view bursts upon the spectator far more strikingly 
aa he approaches the top. 

Both lines are constructed on the rack-and-plnion system. The gauge 
is of the usual width. Between the rails runs the toothed rail, which 
consists of two rails placed side by side and connected with cross-bars at 
regular intervals. Into the spaces thus formed works a cog-wheel under 
the locomotive, which is always placed below the passenger-car. The 
maximum gradient of the Vitznau line is 1:4, and of the Arth line 1 : 6. 
Each train on the Vitznau line consists of one carriage only, with 54 
seats , not divided into classes, and , on the Arth line , of two carriages 
holding 40 persons each. The average speed is 4-6 M. per hour. — The 
Scheidegg Railway (p. 87) is a line of the ordinary kind, but the loco- 
motives are specially adapted for mounting gradients. 

The Footpaths to the top of the Rigi are now Tery little used , but 
the Descent to Weggis on foot (2-2Vs hrs. \ see p. 84) is recommended. 

Hotels. On the Eulm, *Sghksibbb's Bioi-Kulu Hotels (three houses ; 
the two higher and older being now d^pendances of the lower ^ Restau- 
rant on the ground-floor of the latter) ^ R., L., & A. 6-7, D. 5 fr. — On 
the Bigi-Staffel , where all the routes converge, Vt br. below the Kulm, 
*H6t.-Pen8. Rigi-Staffkl, R., L., & A. from aVsi D« SV** pens. 8V2 fr., 
^apted for a stay of some time; ^Hotel SxAFFEL-KuLii and Hotel Rigi- 
BAHN, both immediately above the station, moderate. — The '*Rdrhads 
Higi-Kaltbad (p. 82), V2 l^r. below the Staffel, to the W., is a large, first- 
class establishment, pens, from 9fr.; (hot and cold baths; Eng. Gh. Serv.); 
Bellevde, below stat. Kaltbad, pens, from 7, D. 31/2 fr.,, well spoken of. 
■- *H6tel Rigi-Fibst, on the Scheidegg railway (p. 87), V* br. from the 
Kaltbad, pleasant for some stay, pens, from lOth July to 10th Sept. 11- 
15 fr., earlier or later in the season 9-12 fr. — *Schwert and *8onne, by 
the Kldaierlt (p. 83), R. & A. 21/2-3, D. 3, pens. 5-6 fr. — Pens. Ried- 
BODEN between the Klosterli and the Staffel. 4 fr. — *HdT.-PKN8. Rigi- 
Fblsenthob (p. 84), 10 min. from stat. RomxH-FeUenthor (p. 82), pens. 
6-7 fr. — Hotel Rigi-Untebstetten, near stat. Unterstetten (p. 87), plain. 
— *'KnBHAU8 Rigi-Scheidegg (p. 87; proprietor. Dr. Stierlin)^ R. 3-5, D. 4, 
pens, in July and Augast 9-14, in Jane and Sept. 8-11 fr. (Eng. Ch. Serv.). 

Tbe ♦*Bigi (5906', or 4472' above the Lake of Lucerne; origin- 
ally *die Rigi*, i.e. tbe strata), a gronp of mountains about 25 M. In 
circumference, lying between the lakes of Lucerne, Zug, and Lowerz, 
is chiefly composed of conglomerate (p. 96), while the N. and W. 
Bides belong to the meiocene formation. The.N. side is precipitous, 
bntthe S. side consists of broad terraces and gentle slopes, covered 
^th fresh green pastures which support upwards of 4000 head of 
cattle, and planted towards the base with flg, chestnut, and almond 

Babdeksb, Switzerland. 12th Edition. 6 



i 



82 RouU 26. RIGI. Kaltbad, 

trees. 0-wing to its isolated situation, the Rigi commands a most eX" 
tensive view, 300 M. in circumference, and unsurpassed for beauty 
in Switzerland. The mountain was known to a few travellers 
during the latter part of the 18th cent., but it was not till after the 
peace of 1815 that It became a resort of tourists. In 1816 a very 
modest inn was erected on the Kulm by voluntary subscription, and 
in 1848 it was superseded by the oldest of the three houses on the 
summit. Since then the number of inns has been steadily increas- 
ing, and the Rigi is now one of the most popular of Swiss resorts. 

From Vitznau to thb Rioi-Kulm. — iVj M. Mountain Bailwat 
in 1 hr. 20 min. , fare 7 fr. (to Kaltbad 41/2 , Staffel 6 fr.) ; descent also 
1 hr. 20 min., fare 3V2 fr. ; 10 lbs. of luggage free, overweight being 
charged for. First-class return tickets from Lucerne to the Bigi via Vitz- 
nau 131/2 fr. i Sunday tickets 7 fr. \ season-tickets SOP/o less. 

VitznaUy see p. 75. The station is close to the quay. The 
train (views to the left) ascends gradually through the village (1 : 
15), and afterwards more rapidly (1 : 4), skirting the precipitous 
slopes of the Do$8en, A *yiew of the lake is soon disclosed, becom- 
ing grander as we ascend. Opposite us first appears the dark Bur- 
genstock, then the Stanserhorn, Pilatus, and Lucerne. Farther up, 
the Alps of Uri, Engelberg, and Bern come in sight above the lower 
mountains. The train (20 min. after starting) penetrates a tunnel 
82 yds. long, crosses the Schnurtohel, a ravine 75' deep, by a bridge 
borne by two iron pillars, and soon reaches the watering and passing 
station of Freibergen (3333'). Stat. Bomiti-Felsenthor (3890'; comp. 
p. 84) and (54 min. from Vitznau) — 

23/4M. Kaltbad (4700') ; to the left is the large Kurham (p. 81), 
with its covered promenade, a health-resort on a plateau sheltered 
from the N. and E. winds. 

A path leads through a narrow opening in the rock, to the left of the 
hotel, to St. HCchaers Chapel, the walls of which are hung with num- 
erous votive tablets. One of these on the left side records that two pious 
sisters sought refuge here from the persecutions of a governor of the dis- 
trict in the time of King Albert, and built the chapel. The spring 
(42° Fahr.) which bubbles forth from the rock adjoining the chapel was 
formerly called the 'Schwesternborn"' in memory of the two sisters. 

A path among the blocks of conglomerate near the chapel, and after- 
wards traversing park -like grounds, leads to the (10 min.) "^Kansli (4773'), 
a pavilion on a projecting rock, commanding an admirable view of the 
snow-mountains, and of the plain towards the K. with its numerous lakes, 
similar to that from the Staffel, but with a more picturesque foreground. 
— A path leads hence to the Staffel in the same time as from the Kalt- 
bad (w min.), ascending to the right as far as the point where the S. part 
of the Lake of Lucerne becomes visible, and following the crest of the 
mountain until it joins the path from the Kaltbad, about halfway up. 
Visitors to the Kanzli therefore need not return to the Kaltbad. 

Railway from the Kaltbad to the Seheidegffy see p. 87. 

In 5 min. more the train reaches stat. Staff dhohe ; then ascends 
to the left, round iheRigi-Rothstock (see below), in 9 min. to (4M.) 
Sigi-Btaffel (5262'), the junction of the Arth line (see p. 83). 

The -^Bagi-Bothstock (5456'), 12 min. to the S.W., affords a very pictur- 

<)8que survey of the central part of the Lake of Lucerne, which is not vis- 

''le from the Kulm. A clear view is often enjoyed from this point while 



Klotttrli. Riei. 26. RouU, 83 

the Kulm is enveloped in dense fog. The sunset is said to be sometimes 
seen in greater perfection from the Bothstock than from the Knlm, but 
^he sunrise should certainly be witnessed ftrom the latter. 

The railway (here parallel with the Arth line) now ascends steeply 
to the Kulm (in 7 min. ; a walk of 72-^4 ^O? skirting the precipi- 
ces on the N. side of the hill. 41/2 M. Bigi-Kulm (5741'), see p. 84. 

From Abth to thb Rioi-Kulm. 7M. Mountain Railway in 11/2 hr., 
fare 8fr. 30 (to the Elosterli 5 fr. 50, Staffel 7fr. 40 c.; from Arth-Ooldau, on 
the St. Ootthard Railway, to the Kulm in lV4hr.,fare8fr.); descent iniVshr., 
fare 4 fr. 90 c. ; only 10 lbs. of luggage free. Season tickets SO'/o less. 

Arth (Rail. Restaurant), see p. 91. As far as Goldau the line 
is of the ordinary kind. The train ascends gradually to Oher-Arth, 
passes through the Muhlefluh Tunnel and under the St. Gotthard 
Railway, and reaches (IV2 M.) Arth-Ooldan (1683'; Restaur. ')y a 
station on the St. Gotthard line (p. 96), where the toothed-wheel 
system begins, and where we change our direction. (Seats should 
if possible be secured at Arth on the left side, that farthest from 
the waiting-room.) The Rigi line traverses part of the scene of the 
Goldau landslip (p. 96), crosses the Schwyz road, and describes a 
wide curve to the W. ; then, ascending more rapidly, it skirts the 
slope at the foot of the Scheidegg and reaches (23/4 M.) Stat. KrdhtL 
(2507'). Farther on, ascending 1' in 5', we skirt the precipitous 
Krabelwand , where the construction of the line presented much 
difficulty, and obtain a fine view of the valley and lake of Lowerz, 
with the island of Schwanau, the Mythen near Schwyz, the Ross- 
berg and scene of the great landslip, and the Lake of Zug. Beyond 
the Bothfluh Tunnel we are carried through a picturesque wooded 
valley, and across the Rothfluhbach, to the passing-station FrutUi 
(3780'). Still ascending rapidly, the train traverses the Pfedem- 
wcUdy crosses the Dossenhach and, beyond the Pfedemwald Tunnel j 
the Schildbachj and reaches (5 M.; IV4 hr. from Arth) — 

Stat. Kldsterli (4262'), lying in a basin enclosed by the Rigi- 
Knlm, the Rothstock, and the First. The 'Klosterli' is a small Ca- 
pachin monastery and hospice, with the pilgrimage-chapel of Maria 
zum Schnee^ founded in 1689 and rebuilt in 1712, and the inns al- 
ready mentioned (p. 81). The chapel is much visited by pilgrims, 
especially on 5th Aug. and 6th Sept. ; and on Sundays there is mass 
with a sermon for the herdsmen of the mountain. This spot has no 
view, but is sheltered, and the air is often quite clear while the 
Kulm, Staffel, and Scheidegg are shrouded in mist. Walk from the 
Kldsterli to the Rigi-First 18 min. , Unterstetten 1/2 ^r- , to the 
Kulm 11/4 hr., to the Staffel 40 min., to the Rothstock or the Schild 
3/4, Dossen 1, Scheidegg I3/4 hr. 

At (6V4M.) Stat. Sigi-Staffel (p. 82) a. strikingly beautiful 

view is suddenly disclosed towards the W. and N. (comp. p. 81). 

From this point to the (7 M.) Rigi^Kulm, see above. 

Bridle Paths to the Rigi (comp. p. 81). Fbom Abth (1367'; p. 91), 
31/2 hrs. to the top j a good path, which cannot be mistaken. By the chapel 

6* 



84 Route 26. RIGI. ' Kulm. 

of St. George, near the last house, It turns to the left, and reaches the foot 
of the mountain in 12 min. ; 12 min., a waterfall, precipitated over blocks 
of conglomerate, but often dry in summer ; 8 min., a meadow ^ 4 min., an 
expanse of fem^ 12 min., the Easgatterli, a store-house for cheese (avoid 
path to the right); 20 min., waterfall; 4 min., Unteres Ddchli (see below), 
where the path unites with the bridle-path from Goldau. 

Fbom Goldau (p. 96) 3*/4 hrs., an excellent bridle-path, the best of 
the Rigi routes, and not to be mistaken. To the W. of the railway-station 
we cross the Aa, and proceed to the left of the brook through meadows, 
pine-wood, and rocky debris, ascending by steps at places. To the left the 
precipitous slopes of the Rothjluh (52d3'). 1 br. TTnterea DAehli (3084'; 
/fin), wher6 the path comes up on the right from Arth; good view of 
the valley of Goldau, the Lake of Lowerz, and the My then of Schwyz. 
By the cross adjoining the tavern begin the thirteen stations or oratories 
which lead to the chapel of Our Lady of the Snow. At (20 min.) the 
Obere Ddchli (refreshm.), with its fresh spring, the wood is quitted; on 
the opposite side of the valley runs the railway. This point is about half- 
way to the top ; the second half, however (I*/* hr.), is easier. 10 min. 
Malehtts-Capelle, the 8th station; then (Vs hr.) Kldaterli (see above); thence 
to the Rigi- Staff el (p. 83> 40 min., to the Fir it 20 min. (p. 87). 

Fboh Kdssnacht (p. 91) a bridle-path (S'/i hrs.). The path diverges 
to the right by a small shrine at the N. end of the village, skirting the 
brook, which it crosses near a large new house ; i/s hr., ruins of a burned 
house; at the finger-post 'auf die Bigi' we turn to the left; 20 min., Ross- 
weid, where the rock bears a cross to the memory of a man killed by 
lightning in 17^ (view over the 1^. part of the Lake of Zug); then through 
wood (for 20 min.) and a fern-clad tract (view of the Lakes of Sempach 
to the left, and Baldegg to the right). (1/4 hr.) Uniere Seeboden-Alp (3872'; 
Kurhaus , rustic and dear), on which , at the Heiligkreuz^ our path unites 
with those from Immensee and TelFs Chapel ; 18 min., Obere Sieboden-Alp. 
Then a steep zigzag ascent of IV4 hr. to the Rigi-Siaffel (p. 83). 

Fbok Imuembks (p. SO) a bridle-path (3V4 hrs.). After Vs ^' ^^ reach 
the Kussnacht and Arth road at the inn *'Zur Eiche'' (p. 88); fifty paces to 
the left, by the inn *ZMr Ilge''^ the Rigi path ascends to the right to the 
(l*/4 hr.) Untere Seeboden-Alp (sec above). Or we may follow the Kussnacht 
road for i/s ^* more to TelVi Ghapel (p. 91), and ascend thence to the left 
by a path which joins the other on the ('A br.) Lang eneck- Alp. 

Fbom Gbeppen (p. 91), on the E. bank of the Kussnacht arm of the 
Like of Lucerne, another good bridle-path leads to the Kulm in 3Vs hrs. 

Fbom Weggis (p. 75) a bridle-path (374 hrs.), which cannot be missed 
(finger-post 5 min. from the landing-place), winding at first through pro- 
ductive orchards, the fruit of which is frequently offered for sale. It crosses 
the track of a mud-stream which descended from the mountain in 1796, 
taking a fortnight to reach the lake. (IV4 hr.) Heiligkreuz-Gapelle \ (Vs hr.) 
the Hochstein or Felsenthory sometimes called the Kdsbissen (*H6t. Felsen- 
Thor, p. 81), an arch formed of two huge masses of conglomerate, on 
which rests a third block. (Stat. Ramiti^ a little higher up, see p. 82.) The 
path runs parallel to the railway part of the way. (3/4 hr.) Kaltbady see 
p. 82. This route commands beautiful views of the lake and mountains, 
and is especially recommended for the descent (comp. p. 81). 

The Rigi-Knlm(5906'), a grassy peak, the highest and northern- 
most point of the Rigi, descends abruptly on the N. to the Lake of 
Zug, while on the S.W. side it joins that part of the mountain which 
encloses the basin of the Klosterll and extends to the Scheidegg. 
At the top rises a wooden belvedere. The hotels (p. 81) stand about 
130 paces below the summit, sheltered from the W. and N. winds. 

The Kulm almost always presents a busy scene, but is most 
thronged in the morning and evening. The sunset is always tiie 
chief attraction. A performer on the Alpine horn blows the 'retreat' 
of the orb of day, after which the belvedere is soon deserted. 






63 



3 . , Bo«nli*J691 



«»< 



Gr.Fiescherh? 

<flM Truit«r< 
Mittelh" 3Mf 
3708 



J>m«M 
Slbcr4 



Bra 

4 




•'^urttemberg 

^.e G all e n ^ . -.^ 
Hornli Hohe Rhonen 



E^eri See 



Kuhn. BIOI. 26. Route. 85 

Half-an-honr before sunrise , the Alpine horn sounds the re- 
yeille. All is again noise and bustle \ the crowded hotels are for 
the nonce without a tenant; and the summit Is thronged with an 
eager multitude , enveloped in all manner of cloaks and mantles. 
Unfortunately a perfectly cloudless sunrise is a rare event. 

A faint streak in the E., which gradually pales the brightness 
of the stars, heralds the birth of day. This insensibly changes to 
a band of gold on the horizon ; each lofty peak becomes tinged with 
a roseate blush ; the shadows between the Rigi and the horizon gra- 
dually melt away ; forests, lakes, hills, towns, and villages reveal 
themselves; all is at first grey and cold, until at length the sun 
bursts from behind the mountains in all its majesty, flooding the 
superb landscape with light and warmth. 

**View. The first object which absorbs our attention is the stu- 
pendous range of the snow-clad Alps, 120 M. in length (comp. the 
Panorama). The chain begins in the far E. with the Sentis in Can- 
ton Appenzell , over or near which the first rays of the rising sun 
appear in summer. Nearer the Rigi rises the huge snowy crest of 
the Gldmisch ; then the Todi , in front of which are the Clariderif 
and to the right the double peak of the Scheerhom; next, the broad 
WindgaUe , immediately opposite , and the sharp pyramid of the 
Bristenstock , at the foot of which lies Amsteg on the St. Gotthard 
road; then the Blackenstock and the Vri-Rothstock ^ side by side, 
both so near that the ice of their glaciers can be distinguished ; 
next, the serrated Spannorter, and more to the right the Titlis, the 
highest of the Unterwalden range, easily distinguished by Its vast 
mantle of snow. The eye next travels to the Bernese Alps, crown- 
ing the landscape with their magnificent peaks clad with perpe- 
tual snow. To the extreme left is the Finsteraarhom, the loftiest 
of all (14,026'); adjacent to it the Schreckhomer ^ the three white 
peaks of the Wetterhorn, the Monch, the Eiger with its perpendicu- 
lar walls of dark rock on the N. side, and the Jungfrau. To the W. 
tower the jagged peaks of the sombre Pilatus, forming the extreme 
outpost of the Alps in this direction. — Towards the Nokth the 
entire Lake ofZug is visible, with the roads leadings to Arth, and the 
villages of Zug and Cham. To the left of the Lake of Zug, at the 
foot of the Rigi, stands TelVs Chapel, midway between Immensee 
and Kiissnacht, a little to the left of a white house ; then, separa- 
ted from the Lake of Zug by a narrow strip of land, the Kiissnacht 
arm of the Lake of Lucerne ; more to the W. Lucerne with its crown 
of battlements and towers, at the head of its bay. Beyond Lucerne 
is seen almost the entire canton of that name, with the Emme me- 
andering through it like a silver thread ; the Reuss is also visible 
at places. More distant are the Lake of Sempach^ the W. side of 
which is skirted by the railway to Bale, and the lakes of Baldegg and 
Hallwyl, Towards the West and Nobth-West the horizon is bound- 
ed by the Jura Mta,, above which peep some of the crests of the 



8^6 noute26. RIGI. Kuhn. 

Yosgee. — To the Nobth, but to the left of the Lake of Zug, the 
handsome buildings of the former Abbey of Muri are visible , be- 
yond which rises the castle of Habsburg; in the distance the Black 
forest with its highest peaks , the Feldberg (to the right) and the 
BeLchen (to the left). Beyond the Lake of Zug is seen the crest of 
the Albia with the Veiliberg, which nearly conceals the Lake of Zu- 
rich; the long cantonal hospital and the cathedral in the town of 
Zurich are, however, visible. In the extreme distance rise the ba- 
saltic cones of Hohenkoiven and Hohenstoffeln (close together) and 
the Hoheniwiel in Swabia. Towards the East, behind the N. slope 
of the Rossberg, a glimpse is obtained of the Lake of Egeri, on the 
S. bank of which was fought the famous battle of Morgarten (p. 94). 
Beyond Arth, opposite the Kulm, is the Boasberg , the S. slope of 
which was the scene of the disastrous Goldau landslip (p. 96). 
Between the Rossberg and the E. ramifications of the Rigi lies the 
Lake of Lowerz with its two little islands ; beyond it, the town of 
Schwyz, at the foot of the bald heights of the Mythen, overtopped 
by the imposing Gldmisch. To the right opens the Muotathalj ce- 
lebrated in military annals. To the Sovth-East and South the 
different heights of the Rigi form the foreground, viz. the Hochfluh 
(below it the Bothfluh')^ Scheidegg^ JDossen, and Schildj at the foot 
of which lies the Klosterli. To the left of the Schild part of the 
Lake of Lucerne is seen near Beckenried , and to the right the bay 
called the Lake of Buocha, with the BuochserHom above it ; a little 
more to the right the Stamer Horn with Stans at its base; nearer, 
the less lofty Biirgenstock and the Bigi-Bothstock, Beyond these, 
to the left, is the Lake of Somen, embosomed in forest, to the 
right, the Bay of Alpnach, connected with the Lake of Lucerne by 
a narrow strait formed by the Lopperberg , a spur of Pilatus. — 
Good panorama by Keller^ upon which that annexed is based. 

For a quarter of an hour before and after sunrise the view is 
clearest; at a later hour the mists rise and condense into clouds, 
frequently concealing a great part of the landscape. To quote the 
chamois-hunter in Schiller's Tell : 

* Through the parting clouds only 
The earth can be seen, 

Far down ^neath the vapour 
The meadows of green." 
But the mists themselves possess a certain charm, surging in the 
depths of the valleys, or veiling the Kulm, and struggling against 
the powerful rays of the sun. The effects of light and shade, 
varying so often in the course of the day, are also a source of 
constant interest. In the early morning the Bernese Alps are seen 
to the best advantage, and in the evening those to the E. of the 
Bristenstock. One whole day at least should be devoted to the Rigi. 
A visit may also be paid (on foot or by rail) to the Staffel (p. 83), 
the Kaltbad (p. 82), the Klosterli (p. 83), or the Scheidegg (p. 87), 
^nd the Rothstock (p. 82) may be ascended. 



Seheidegg. RIQl. 26. Route. 87 

As the temperature often varies 40-50° witMn. 24 hours, 
overcoats and shawls should not be forgotten. During the prevalence 
of theFohn, or S. wind, the Alps seem to draw nearer, their jagged 
outlines become more definite, their tints warmer; and during a 
W. wind the Jura Mts. present a similar appearance; but these 
phenomena generally portend rain. 



F&OM THE KaLTBAD TO THE RlGI-SCHEIDEOG. — 41/4 M. RAILWAY 
hi 25 min. ; fare 2 fr. 50, there and back 3 fr. 60 c. ; only 10 lbs. of lug- 
gage free. 

Bigi-Kalthad (4700'), see p. 82. The raUway skirts the S. 
slope of the Rothstock, being hewn in the rock the greater part 
of the way, and ascends gradually to stat. Bigi-EirBt (4747'; 
^Hotel, see p. 81), which commands a beautiful view of the Lake 
of Lucerne, the Uri and Unterwalden Mts., and the Bernese 
Alps. The train now describes a wide curve round the N. slopes of 
the /SfcAt(c2 (see below), affording a pleasant view, towards theE., of 
the Mythen, the Glarnisch, and the Alpsof Appenzell. Beyond stat. 
TJntersUtten (Hotel, see p. 81) we traverse the saddle of the hill 
and cross a bridge 55 yds. long and 33' high , with a view to the 
N. and S. We pass through the Weisseneck Tunnel ^ 55 yds. long, 
cross the Dossentohel by a viaduct 84' high , and reach the ridge 
which connects the Dossen with the Seheidegg, where a view 
towards the S. is again disclosed. 

Stat. Bigi-Scheidegg (5260'; *Kurhau8, p. 81). The view hence 
(summit, 5407') is less extensive than that from the Kulm, but it 
also embraces the principal mountains, and some points not visible 
from the Kulm (see Panorama at the hotel). The plateau of the 
Seheidegg, about 1 M. in length, affords a pleasant promenade. 
The Dossen (see below) is 8/4 hr. distant. 

Paths to the Seheidegg. Fboh Gbbsad (p. 76) a bridle-path (3V4 hrs., 
descent 2 hrs.), steep at places. Beyond the village we cross the brook 
and ascend by a paved path between orchards and farm-houses; 40 min., 
Brand; 1/2 b'*) a saw-mill, where we again cross the brook; 10 min., 
Uhter-Otehiednd (tavern); 10 min., Ober-Oschtedndy where we join the path 
from Lowerz (see below). To the right, the precipitous slopes of the Hoch- 
fliih (5554') ; below lies the little chapel of 8t. Joseph. On the sharp crest 
of the hill, 20 min. below the Seheidegg, a view is suddenly disclosed of 
the Bossberg and the lakes of Lowerz and Zug. 

Fbom Lowebz (p. 96) a bridle-path (3 hrs.), ascending towards the S. to 
the depression between the Hochfitth and the TtDSriberg^ the E. spur of the 
Seheidegg, and uniting with the Gersau route at Ober-Oschtednd (see above). 

Fboh the Elostebli (p. 83) a bridle-path (l*/4 hr.), ascending from 
the Schwert Inn and passing the Dossen (o515') , the ascent of which adds 
1/4 hr. to the walk. (We ascend the saddle to the right between the Schild 
and Dossen, Vs br. from the Klosterli, pass the slope above Vitznau, with 
a fine view, and go straight thence to. the top of the Dossen, which com- 
mands the whole of the Lake of Lucerne and Canton Unterwalden.) 

Fbom the Staffbl (p. 88) a good path (2 hrs.), hardly to be mistaken 
(railway, see above). At the Staffel Hotel it divei^es to the left from the 
Rothstock path and skirts the brow of the mountain. (To the right, views 
of the Lake of Lucerne and the Alps ; in the valley to the left lies the 
Kldsterli.) After 1/2 hr., on the First (see above), it crossei the path from 



I 

/ 



.•^' 



Vw 



88 JBoute 27. PILATUS. 

the Klosterli to the Kaltbad, rounds the slopes of the Sddld 0O&&') to 
the saddle between the Schild and Dossen, skirts the latter, and descends 
to the (1^4 hr.) chalets In the Elend^ between the Dossen and Scheidegg, 
where it joins the path from the Klosterli. To the Kurhaus */< b'* more. 

27. Pilatus. 

Gotnp. Map^ p. 74. 

Boutes. Pilatus is ascended from Hergistoyl^ from Alpnach-QesUxd^ ot 
from Alpnach. Steamboat 3 times daily from Lucerne to Hergiswyl in 35 min. 
(1 fr. 40, 80 c), to Alpnach-Gestad in IV4 hr. (2 fr. 40, 1 fr. 20 c.). Description 
of the route, see p. 117. Two-horse carr. from the railway-station at Lu- 
cerne to Hergiswyl in 1 hr., 1-2 pers. 41/2, 3-4 pers. 6fr. 

Fkoh Hbbgiswtl (p. Il7) bridle-path in 31/2 hrs. (down in 2>/s hrs.) to 
the Hotel Elimsenhorn (horse 12 fr. ; back on the same day 8 fr., next day 
12 fr.) , whence the Klimsenhom may be ascended on foot in 10 min., the _ 
Tomlishom in 1 hr. , and the Esel in 60 min. — Fbou Alpkach-Obstad /T^' 
(p. 117) to the Hdtel Bellevue bridle>path in 472-5 hrs. (down in 3 hrs.); 
thence to the top of the E:^el, 8 min. — Fbom Ai^nach (p. 117) to the 
Hotel Bellevue bridle-path in 4V2-5 hrs. (down in 3 hrs.). — Porter' from 
Hergiswyl to the Esel 3, Horse (without luggage) 12 fr. \ ChaUeh-potteun 
20 fr. \ horse from Alpnach-Gestad to the Bellevue 15 fr. {Guides unneces- 
sary.) — Bailwat from Alpnach-Gestad to the Hdtel Bellevue, under con- 
struction, see p. 89. 

Hotelt. Klimsknhokk, 10 min. from the top of the peak of that name. 
B., L., die A. 41/2, !>• 3fr. ; *Bbllbvub, on the ridge between the Oberha^pt ana 
the Esel, with an uninterrupted view towards the E., expensive, B., L., &, A, 
51/2, B. 2 fr. 

^Pilatus, the lofty mountain to the S.W. of Lucerne, rises boldly 
in a rugged and imposing mass, almost isolated from the surround- 
ing heights. The W. and N. portions belong to the canton of Lu- 
cerne, the E. and S. to Unterwalden. . The lower slopes are clothed 
with beautiful pastures and forests, while the upper part consists 
of wild and serrated cliffs, from which its ancient name Fractm 
Mons (broken mountain) is derived. The names 'Fracmont', 'Frak- 
mund', have in later times been occasionally applied to it, but the 
name Pilatus {mom pileatusj the capped mountain) came into gene- 
ral use about the close of last century. 

The names of the diflferent peaks from W. to E. are the MittaggUpJUt 
or Onep/stein (6300'), the Rothe-ToUen (6893'), the Widderfeld (6824', the 
wildest), the Tomlishom (6998', the highest), the Oemsmattli (6732'); to 
the S. the Matthorn (6693 *); to the N. the Klimsenhom (6266', which, seen 
from Lucerne, is the farthest W.); in the centre the Oberhaupt^ then th© 
Esel (6965', t^& most frequently ascended), and lastly the SteigU-Egg (6486'). 
Pilatus, form rly one of the best-known of the Swiss mountains, was for 
many years 8\xpplanted by the Bigi, but has of late regained its ancient 
reputation and become one of the most popular points of view in Switzerland. 

Ascent. Fbom Hergiswyl (*Rossli), a village at the £. base of 
Pilatus (p. 117), an easy bridle-path ascends in 3^/2 his. to the 
H6tel Klimsenhom. In front of the church we take the broader 
path to the left, and after 3 min. turn to the right, traversing 
orchards and meadows, and afterwards wood. At(iy4hr.) the H6t.- 
Pens. Brunnij a small sulphur-bath, there is a terrace affording a 
fine view; 6 min., a bench shaded by pines; ^/i ^'- > * second 
bench. After 12 min. the path leads through a gate to the 



Whs Fkasdtberg 



■•i 



PILATUS. 27, Route. 89 

Oaehwandalpj where a thiTd bench (6 min.) commands a fine view. 
Neai a chalet (20 min.) we pass through another gate and ascend 
in steep zigzags to the left^ at first through beautiful pine-wood, 
and then across slopes of grass and debris, toflVi^'O the Hdtel 
Klimaenhomj situated on the saddle (5935', 29' higher than the 
Rigi-Kulm) connecting the Oberhaupt with the Klimsenhorn. 

From the hotel we may ascend the (10 min.) ^KlimBeahom 
(6266'), which affords an extensive and picturesque prospect to the 
E., N., and W., from the Uri Mts. to the Lake of Neuchatel. The 

view to the S. is hidden by the loftier peaks of Pilatus. 

We may also ascend the Tomlishorn (6998') from the hotel in 1 br., 
but the path is bad. It at first descends to the rock-strewn Kastelenalp 
on the W. slope, and then mounts towards the S.W., where it is hewn in 
the rock at places. Lastly it ascends on the brink of a gully by means of 
dilapidated steps to the ridge connecting the Tomlishorn with the Gems- 
mSttli (67320) and thence towards the W. to the summit. View similar 
to that from the Esel. 

From the H6tel Klimsenhorn a well-constructed zigzag path as- 
cends the steep slope of the Oberhaupt, to the (40 min.) Krisilochj 
an aperture in the rock resembling a chimney, 20' high, through 
which 41 wooden steps ascend to the arete between the Oberhaupt 
and the Esel. A *View of the Bernese Alps is suddenly disclosed 
here. The path then leads in a few minutes to the Hdtel Bellevue 
(6790'), and thence in 8 min. to the summit of the *Esel (6965'). 
The **ViBw from this point resembles that from the Rigl , but 
surpasses it in grandeur, the Bernese Alps being nearer and more 
conspicuous. Compare the panorama. 

Fbom Alpnach-Gbstad (p. 117; railway under construction), 
a bridle-path (4V2-5 hrs.) , the pleasantest of the routes. By the 
chapel near the Rossli, 3 min. from the landing-place , it diverges 
to the right, crossing pastures, at first ascending gradually , and 
affording beautiful retrospects of the lake and the Unterwalden Mts. 
Passing (Y2 hr.) a bench, we enter a wood, cross abridge, and 
ascend a ravine (with small waterfalls) in zigzags to the (2 hrs.) 
Aemsigenegg (4431'); then ascend the Aemsigenalp (refreshm.) and 
Maitaip to the (IY2 lir.) ridge (6132') between the Esel and Matt- 
horn, where our path joins that from Alpnach. To the Hdtel Belle- 
vue (see above), Y2 ^^' more. 

Fbom Alpnach (p. 117). The bridle-path (41/2 ^rs. ; quite dis- 
tinct), crosses the Kleint Schlierenbach, beyond the village, to Im 
Orund, and ascends through pastures (fine waterfall in the ravine to 
the right) and wood to the(2 hrs.) AlpLuthold8matt{S7^^'\ refreshm.). 
It now leads to the E., past the chalets of Schwandi 6.nd Hinter- 
Frakmiindy between the slopes of the Widderfeld and the Tomlis- 
horn on the left and those of the Matthorn on the right, and lastly 
ascends a stony slope in zigzags across detritus to the H6tel Bellevue. 

The PiLAfrns Railway, now being constructed nnder the superinten- 
dence of Col. Locher, and to be opened for passen^r traffic in June 1889, 
starts from Alpnuch-Geitad between the Pilatus and Adler hotels (1446'), 
and aacends to the N., through fine beech woods, to the Aemsigenalp 



90 BouU 28. LALE OF ZUG. 

(w&ere the trainB pais each other) and the Mattalp ^140. Thence it is 
carried up the rocky peak of the Esel in a series of sharp corves, travers* 
ing four short tunnels and several galleries. The railway is 2*/^ M. long, 
and the substructure for the entire distance consists of massive blocks 
and slabs of granite. The average gradient is 40:100, the steepest being 
48:100, and the most gradual 18:100. The trains are pn pelled by means 
of two pairs of toothed wheels (one pair at each end of the train), working 
horizontally into a rail, toothed on buth sides, in the centre of the track. 

The Rigi has a marked advantage over Pilatus in frequently 

enjoying clear and snnny weather while its rival is shrouded in 

clouds or fog. Being an advanced outpost of the Alpine chain, 

Pilatus attracts every storm that approaches from the N. or W., and 

is the popular barometer of the district. An old saying runs thus : — 

^If Pilatus wears his cap, serene will be the day; 

If his collar he puts on, you may venture on the way; 

But if his sword he wields, at home you''d better stay'/ 

If the summit is free from clouds and fog in the morning, the 
weather cannot be depended on ; but if shrouded in fog till midday, 
a fine afternoon may be expected. 

Many legends are connected with Pilatus, particularly with its caverns 
(the Mondloeh below the Tomlisalp , and the Dominikhdhlt above the 
Briindlisalp) and its Lake (to the S.W. of the Kllmsenhom). One of the 
oldest [is , that when Pontius Pilate was banished from Galilee , he fled 
hither, and in the bitterness of his remorse, drowned himself in this lake. 

28. From Zug and Lnoeme to Arth. 

Comp. Ifaps^ pp. 74, 80. 
i. From Zng to Arth. Lake of Zng. 

Steamboat (in connection with the Zurich and Lucerne and the Rigi 
railways) in 50 min. (Quick train from Zug by Bothkreuz to Arth-Goldau 
in 48 min., ordinary in 1 hr. 40 min.) 

The Lake of Zug (1368Q, 83/^ M. long, 21/2 M. wide, and 660' 
deep, Is very picturesq^ue. Its richly wooded banks rise gently to 
a moderate height, while to the S., above its azure waters, towers 
the Rigi, visible from base to summit. On the flat N. bank of the 
lake many remains of lake-dwellings have been discovered. 

Zug^ see p. 69. Soon after the steamer has left the pier, Pilatus 
appears to the S.W., and then the Bernese Alps and the Stanser- 
horn to the left. On a promontory on the W. bank is the handsome 
new chateau of Buonoi ; on the E. bank lie the village of Ohef\Dyl 
and the houses of Otterswyl and EyeUnegg. Looking back, we ob- 
serve the church-tower of Cham (p. 69), rising above the plain. 
On the W. bank, farther on, the wooded promontory of Kiemen pro- 
jects far into the lake. To the left of the Rigi-Scheidegg Ure the 
Frohnalpstock and the Ross-Stocke. The steamer touches at Waleh'- 
wyl'Ilomli and the village of Walchwyl (*Stern) on the E. bank, 
and then crosses to Immensee (*H6t, Rigi), charmingly situated at 
the foot of the Rigi. (Rail, stat., see p. 96; omnibus to Kussnacht 
in 1/2 ^^' ; footpath to the Rigi, p. 84). 

On the £. bank lies 8t, Adrian, at the foot of the Bosaberg (see 



KUSSNACHT. 28, Route. 91 

p. 96), wMch on this side is clothed with wood and pasture. As 
Arth is approached, one of the My then of Schwyz (p. 97) peeps from 
behind the Rossbeig. 

Arth (^Adler, with garden on the lake; *H6t. Rigi; Schlus- 
ad) lies at the S. end of the lake, between the Rigi and the Ross- 
berg , but not exposed to the landslips of the latter, the strata of 
which dip in another direction. The Churchy erected in 1677, con- 
tains a silver cup and vase captured at Grandson in 1476. 

Arth-Rigi Railway, see p. S3. Footpath up the Rigi, see p. 83. — 
From Arth to KUssnaeht and Lucerne, see p. 96. 

ii. From Laceme to KuBBnacht and Arth. 

Steamboat from Lucerne to (8 M.) Kussnaclit, 1 hr. ^ Post-Omnibus 
from Kiissnaclit to (21E.) stat. Immensee 3 times daily in 25 min., Bailwat 
from Immensee to (5]f.) Artb-Goldan in 19 min. (From Lucerne by Both- 
kreuz to Arth-Goldan quick train in 55 min., ordinary in IV4 hr. \ see 
pp. 95, 96.) 

Departure from Lucerne, see p. 74. The steamer touches at 
Pen$.8eeburg(jp.7i')j rounds the promontory oi Meggenhom(y.7b\ 
and enters the bay of Kussnacht. To the left, near stat. Forder- 
Meggen, rises the picturesque chateau of Neu^Habsburg y behind 
which peeps the ancient tower of the castle of that name, onoe a 
frequent resort of the £mp. Rudolph when Count of Hapsburg, 
and destroyed by the Lucerners in 1352. The incident which in- 
duced Rudolph to present his horse to the priest is said to have 
occurred here (see Schiller's ballad, 'The Count of Hapsburg'). 

Stat. Hinter-Meggen (^Kurliam ^ Pens. Oottlieben, suitable for 
some stay, prettily situated Y4M. from the lake, 5-9 fr.). The steamer 
now crosses to Oreppen, skirts the beautiful wooded slopes of the 
Rigi, and soon reaches — 

8 M. Kussnacht (1433'; pop. 3203; *mt. du Lac, R. 2-3, D. 3, 
pens. 5-6 fr. ; *Sckwaner Adler; Rd38li; Tell: *Pen8. Sigwarf), a 
village prettily situated at the N. end of this bay of the lake. Om- 
nibus to Immensee from the landing-place ; one-horse carr. 3 fr. 
— Ascent of the Rigiy see p. 84. 

The road to (2 M.) Immensee ascends a little. To the right, on 
a wooded hill, are the scanty remains of Gesslera Castle , which is 
said to have been destroyed in 1308. We then pass through the 
'Hohle Oasse' or 'hollow lane' ; see Schiller's Tell), now half filled 
up, .but still deserving the name at one point where it is shaded by 
lofty beeches. At the upper end of it, I72 ^* ^^oii^ Kiissnacht, to 
the left, is Toll's Chapel (1584'), rebuilt in 1834, marking the spot 
where the tyrant Gessler is said to have been shot by Tell. Over 
the door is a painting oX the event, with an inscription. 

By the (Y2 ^O ii^n *Zur EieKey the road divides. A few paces 
to the right is stat. Immensee- Kuasnacht (p. 96). The road to the 
left descends to (Y4M.) the village of Immensee (p. 84). 



92 

29. From Wadenswyl to Einsiedeln, Schwyz, and 

Bmnnen. 

Comp. HapSy pp. 36^ 74. 

30 H. Railway to (IOV2 M.) Einsiedeln in 1 hr. (fare 2 fr. or 1 fr. 
50 c). Diligence from Einsiedeln to (ISVa M.) Brunnen twice daily in 
31/4 bra. (to Schwys in 2^/4 hrs.); fare 4 fr. 76 c. By taking the train to 
Biberbruck and the diligence thence to Brunnen, the traveller may reach the 
latter from Wadenswyl without passing tinsiedeln. — One-horse carr. from 
Einsiedeln to Brunnen in 3'/4 hrs. , 17 fr. j two-horse carr. from Biber- 
bruck to Brunnen 25 fr. 

Wadenswyl, see p. 39'. The line (gradient 1:50) gradually 
ascends the fertile slopes on the S. bank of the Lake of Zurich, oom- 
manding beautiful views of the lake and the Islands of Lutzelau and 
Ufnau (p. 39). On a hill to the right is the ruin of Alt' Wadenswyl. 
2M. Burghalden; 3^/4 M. Samstagem (IY4M. to the S.W. of which 
is the whey-cure estab. of Hutien, p. 39), Near (5Y2M.) Schiu- 
dellegi(2483' ; *Freihof; Hirsch)^ we cross the brawling Sihl. Now 
that we have quitted the fertile bank of the lake, the scenery sud- 
denly assumes a more Alpine character. The line rounds the £. 
slopes of the Hohe Bhonen (4042'), and approaches the Alpbaehy 
which falls into the Sihl here. Towards the S. appear the Mythen 
(p. 97). Beyond (71/2 M.) Biberbrnek (2729'; Post), where the 
Biber falls into the Aiphach, the Glarus Mts., bounded on the left 
by the pyramidal Kdpfenstock(6240'), form the background. 

Pleasant excursion from Biberbruck (by road) to the (2i/t H.) top of 
the Oottschallenberg (3743'; *Inn\ the W. prolongation of the Eohe 
Jihonen (see below), commanding a fine view of the Alps. The descent 
may be made to (2V2 M.) Egeri (p. 94), to (IV2 hr.) Riehterswpl (p. 39) , or 
by Jfenzingen to (6 M.) Zug (p. 69). 

The train follows the narrow Alpthal (several cuttings and em-* 

bankments, and a short tunnel), and soon reaches the basin of 

(10^2 ^0 Einsiedeln (see below). 

Fbok B.APFBBSWTL TO EiNBiBDELN. By the l&ke-viaduct to Burden 
and P/dffikon (rail, in 10 min.), see p. 39. A narrow road command- 
ing fine views of the lake ascends in windings, past the Pent. Lugeie, to 
the (5 M.) pass of the Etsel (3254'; */»»), with the Chapel 0/ 8t. Meinrad, 
The Hoch-Etzel (3615'; steep ascent of Vz br. from the inn) is wooded, and 
commands no view, but the '^SchSnboden (3523'), V4 hr. to the E., affords 
a splendid view of the lake, the Limmatthal as far as Baden , the Alps of 
Appenzell and Glarus, the Sihlthal and Alpthal, with Einsiedeln, the 
Mythen of Schwyz, the Bossberg, and the Rigi ; to the W. risea the Hohe 
Rhonen (4042'), locally called Dreilanderstein from the stone at the top 
marking the boundaries of cantons Zurich, Zug, and Schwyz. Travellers 
bound for Einsiedeln may from the Schonboden descend towards the S.W. 
direct to Egg, visible below, cross the Sihl, and join the road from the 
Etzel. — From the Etzel Inn the road descends to the (1 M.) Teu/elsbrilcke 
(2202') over the Sihl. The famous Paracelsus (d. 1541 at Salzburg) is said 
to have been bom or to have once lived here. Then 3^4 H. to Einsiedeln. 

Kineiedeln (2890' ; pop . 8401 ; *Pfau, R. & A. 2V2, B. 1 , D. 3 fr. ; 

*8onne', DreiKonige; *Adler; Sehwan'), ot Notre-Dame-des'Ermites 

(Momuterium Eremitarum), in a green valley, watered by the Alpbach^ 

vies with Rome and Loreto in Italy, St. Jago de Compostella in 

Spain, and Mariazell in Styria as one of the most famous pilgrim 



EINSIEDELN. 29. BouU. 93 

resorts in the world. Its foandation is attributed to OonntMeinrad 
of Sulgen, who built a chapel here in honour of a wonder-working 
image of the Virgin presented to him by the Abbess Hildegard of 
Zurich. After the death of Melnrad, who was assassinated in 861, 
a monastery of Benedictine Hermits (^Einsiedler') sprang up here. 
In 1294 it was created an independent principality by Emp. Ru- 
dolph of Hapsburg, and owing to the constantly increasing throng 
of pilgrims which it attracted soon ried with St. Gallen as one of 
the richest monasteries in Switzerland. 

In the large open space between the houses (a great many of 
which are inns for the entertainment of the pilgrims) and the con- 
spicuous buildings of the monastery rises a black marble Fountain 
with fourteen jets, surmounted by an image of the Virgin , from 
which the pilgrims are wont to drink. Under the Arcades , which 
form a semicircular approach to the church on the right and left, 
as well as in the Platz itself, there are numerous stalls for the sale of 
prayer-books, images of saints, rosaries, medals, crucifixes, and 
other 'devotionar objects. So great is the demand for engravings, 
religious works, and other souvenirs of the place, that at Benziger'a 
Lihrary no fewer than 700 workmen are employed in printing and 
stereotyping, engraving on wood and zinc, chromo-lithographing, 
book-binding, etc. The pilgrims, who come chiefly from Switzer- 
land, Bavaria, Swabia, Baden and Alsace, number about 150,000 
annually. The greatest festival takes place on 14th Sept. 

The extensive Ahhty Buildings, in the Italian style, which were 
re-erected for the sixth or seventh time in 1704-19, are 148 yds. 
long , 41 yds. of which are occupied by the Church and its two 
slender towers. On the right and left of the entrance are Statues of 
the Emperors Otho I. and Henry II., two benefactors of the Abbey. 

The Intebior of the church is gaudily decorated with gilding, marble, 
and pictures of little value. In the nave, isolated from the rest of the 
building, stands the Ghapisl of this Vibgin, of black marble , the 'Sanc- 
tum Sanctorum", with a grating, through which, illuminated by a solitary 
lamp, a small Image of the Virgin and Child is visible, richly attired, and 
decked with crowns of gold and precious stones. At the back of the 
chapel is the inscription : '■Deiparae Virgini Casparus Comes in Altaembs 
Oallara et Vadutz Perfecit Anno SaluHt hdcxxxii.'' In the chapel to the 
right a Crucifix by J. Kraus ; in the choir an Assumption by the same 
artist, skilfully restored by Deschwanden in 1858. The Tbbasdbt, once so 
rich, was despoiled by the French in 17^. The Abbey contains a well- 
arranged LiBBABT of 26,000 volumes, chiefly historical, a number of MSS., 
and a small natural history collection. The Fdbstensaal is hung with 
good life-size portraits, including those of Pius IX., the emperors William I., 
Francis Joseph, and Napoleon III. The Pbivatb Chapel of the abbot is 
adorned with paintings of ecclesiastical events. — Connected with the 
Abbey are a Sehinabt and a Ltceum. 

Zwlngll was pastor of Einsiedeln from 1515 to 1519 \ and the effect 
of bis preaching was such, that in 1517, on the anniversary festival, the 
monks left their cells, and the Abbey was for a time quite deserted. 

The Herrenberg (3648'), a hill near the Abbey, commands a 
beautifol view of the neighbourhood. 



94 RouU 29. ROTHENTHURM. 

Fbom Einsibdbln to Sohwyk and B&tmNBN. The high-road 
leads towards the N.W. to — 

3 M. Biberbraok (p. 92), and then turns to the S. to (I72 M.) 
Altmatt (2989'), a poor hamlet of weavers on a large moor, to which 
a cart-track leads direct from Einsiedeln in 1 hr. across the lofty 
plain of Katzenstriek (3455'; Inn at the top). 

71/2 M. Bothenthnrm (3040'; ♦Ocft«), where the long hack of 
the Rigi and the hotels on the Eulm become Tisible, is named 
after a red tower belonging to fortifications (Letze) once erected by 
the Schwyzers to protect their N. W. boundary. In the vicinity, 
on the E. slope of the Af oryarf en (see below), on 2nd May, 1798, the 
Schwyzers under Reding defeated the French, who lost 2000 men. 
The road traverses monotonous pastures, passing Biberegg (3110') 
on the left, and then descends in numerous windings. In the gorge 
far below flows the Steinen-Aa. 

10 M. Battel (2729' ; Neue Krone^ on the road, Atte Krone, in 
the village) lies above the new road. 

Fkoh Sattbl to Untbb-Egebi, 51/2 M., diligence daily in 1 hr., passing 
the pretty Egeri-See (2382'). On the Horgarten, the hill on the S.E. side 
of the lake, on 16th liov. 1315, the Confederates won their first victory 
over their Hapsburg oppressors commanded by Leopold of Austria. A 
memorial chapel, containing a representation of the battle , was erected 
at St. Jakob^ >/« ^- to the K. of Battel and 1 11. from the S.£. end of the 
lake. A commemoration service is held here annually on the day of the 
battle. At the W. end of the lake are the villages of (4 M.) Ober- and 
(IV2 M.) TJnter-Egeri CPostj H6t. Menggeler)^ with a new Gothic church, 
prettily situated at the mouth of the Lorze (lake baths). Ascent of the 
Zuger Berg (p. 69) 2/4 hr. ; of the GoUschallenberg (p. 92) IV4 hr. The 
*Rossberg (highest peak, Wildspitz, 5190'), an admirable point of view, 
may be ascended through the Hwrithal and over the Rossbergalp in 2^2 hrs. 
(see below). — From Ober-Egeri to Zug diligence twice daily in iV« hr. 

Fbom Sattkl to Goldau, 51/2 M., diligence twice daily in */« hour. 
The road leads at first high above the deep ravine of the Steinen-Aa, 
passing the (3/4 M.) Ecce-Bomo Chapel (2408*), where the old road to 
Schwyz by Steinen (p. 96) diverges to the left. It then skirts the Rotsberg 
(p. 96), passes Steinenberg CBossli), whence the Wildspits (see above) is 
easily ascended in 3 hrs., and leads across the scene of the Gk)ldau land- 
slip to (4^4 M.) Stat. Arth-Ooldau (p. 96). 

The *ScHLAGSTBAS8B, as the new road from Sattel to Schwyz is 
called, crosses the Steinen- Aa and descends on the W. slope of the 
Hcuiken (see below), affording beantifnl views of the fertile valley of 
Steinen, the Lake of Lowerz with the Schwanau, the scene of the 
Goldau landslip, and the Rigi. At (4 M.) Auf der Burg (*Inn) 
Schwyz and the Mythen become visible. Thence to stat. Seewen 
IV4M., to Schwyz 2 M. 

16^2 ^- Schwyz, 1 M. from the Schwyz^Seewen station on the 
St. Gotthardline (p. 96). 

Fboh E1N8IEDELK TO ScHWTZ OVER THE Hackbn (S^/f hrs.), destitute 
of shade, and very disagreeable in bad weather. We ascend the monoton- 
ous Alpthal (with the nunnery of Au on the right) to the (IVa hr.) village 
of Alpt?uil (3!258'; *Stern), where the somewhat rough aud steep log-path 
ascending the Hacken begins. In Vs 1^'> ^^ reach a point where the 
^pace between the two Mythen (p. 97), shaped like the letter V, is 
'istinctly observed, and in Vs hr. more the Jtm on the Hacken-Past 



ROTHKREUZ. 30, Route, 95 

C4S880, which commands a splendid view of the lakes of Lucerne and 
Lowerz, etc. (The view is still finer from the ^Boclufuckli^ 5iC&^ V« *»'. 
higher up, to the N., and embraces the K. part of the lake and the town 
of Ziirich.) Descent to (1 hr.) vSchwyz steep and stony. 

Fhok Eissibdkln to .Sghwtz oveb the Ibbbgeb Ego, 13 H. Good 
road through the BihUhal or Euthal by Steinbach and Euthal to (8 M.) 
Iberff (3483'); thence to the Iberger Egg (48230 or Heilighauschen, afford- 
ing a fine survey of the Lake of Lucerne and the Alps, and by BUlitberg 
and Sickwbach to (5 M.) Schwyz. 

The road from Schwyz to (3 M.) Brunnen (St. Gotthard Railway, 
see p. 97) crosses the Muota (p. 97) at Jbachj and passes Ingen- 
hohly with its pilgrimage-church and the nunnery of Mariahilfy 
founded in 1856. 

19^/2 M. Brunnen J see p. 78. 



30. From Lucerne to Bellinzona. St. Ootthard 

Bailway. 

Ckmip. Maps^ pp. 74^ 80^ 96, 104. 

109 M. Railway. Express in 5^/4, ordinary trains in TVs hrs. \ fares 
24 fr. 60, 17 fr. 20, 12 fr. 30 c. (To Lugano 127V2 M., express in Q^U hrs.: 
29 fr. 30, 20 fr. 60, 14 fr. 66 c.^ to Milan 176 M., in 9>A hrs.; 36 fr. 65, 
18 fr. 6 c.) Bothkreuz (p. 69), a station between Zug and Lucerne, the 
starting-point of the St. Gotthard line, is reached by express from Ziirich 
in about IV2 hr. ; from Bdle by Lucerne in 3 hrs., or by Aarau or by 
Brugg and Mnri in 3V2-4>/4 hrs. — For the day express there is a table 
d'hote at Gdschenen, where the traveller should be careful to avoid an 
involuntary change of carriages, or even of trains. In the great tunnel it 
is unnecessary to close the windows (comp. p. 101), but this should be 
done in the curved or loop- tunnels, especially in ascending. Finest views 
from the 1st class end-coupes (Aussichtswagen) : from Lucerne to Fluelen 
to the right, from Fluelen to Goschenen to the left, and from Airolo to 
Bellinzona to the right. 

The **Bt. Gotthard Railway, opened on 22nd Hay, 1882, its con- 
struction having occupied ten years, is one of the grandest achievements 
of modern times. It includes the Immensee, Goldau, Fluelen, Bellinzona. 
Lugano, and Chiasso (128 M.), the Bellinzona and Locarno (I8V2 H.) and 
the Bellinzona, Hagadino, and Pino (17 M.) lines. The highest point of the 
line, in the middle of the great tunnel, is 3787' above the sea-level, and 
the maximum gradient is about 1' in 4'. At places the ascent is rendered 
more gradual by means of curved tunnels, piercing the sides of the 
valley; there are three such tunnels on the ^. side, and four on the S. 
side of the mountain (comp. Hap, p. 97). Altogether the line has 66 
tunnels (of an aggregate length of 2dV2 H.), 32 bridges, 10 viaducts, and 24 
minor bridges. In order to examine the most interesting structure of the 
line itself, the traveller should drive in an open carriage or walk from Amsteg 
to GK>schenen (12 H.) and from Airolo to Giornico (15 H.). Those who are not 
pressed for time should take the steamboat from Lucerne to Fluelen, in 
preference to the train; or, if they have not yet visited the Rigi, they 
may take the railway to Rothkreuz, Arth-Goldau, the Rigi-Eulm, and 
Yitznan, and the steamer thence to Fluelen. 

From Lueeme to (11 M.) Sothkrenz (1444'), see p. 69. Our 
line diverges to the right, traversing a hilly and wooded tract. To 
the right a glimpse of Pilatus with the Bernese Alps beyond it. 
Before reaching Immensee (p. 90), which lies below us, on the left, 



96 Boute30. GOLDAU. From Lucerne. 

we obtain a survey of the E. part of the Lake of Zug (p. 90). On 
the N. bank lies WaUhwyli then St, Adrian (p. 90), 

16 M. Immensee-KiUiBnAoht (1685'). Omnibus to Kiissnacht 
in 25 min. (p. 90; TelVs Chapel, at the end of the ^Hohle Gas8e\ 
is Y2 ^- ^^om the station). To the right the wooded slopes of the 
Bigi, with the Kulm Hotel far above us (p. 84). 

The train runs high above the Lake of Zug , passing through 
several cuttings. At the E. end of the lake, on the left, lies the 
thriving village of Arth (p. 91), at the foot of the wooded Ross- 
berg; in front of us rise the Mythen (see below). Threading the 
Rindelfluh Tunnel (220 yds.) and several rock-cuttings, we cross 
the high-road and the Rigi line (p. 83) to — 

21M. Arth-Goldan(1844'; Rail, Restaur.; *Hof Ooldau, 3 min. 

from the station ; ^Rossli, in the village of Goldau), situated on 

the scene of the great Ooldau Landalipy and also a station on the 

Arth'Rigi-Railway (p. 83). 

Ooldau Landslip. The BosBberg, or Ruft (51900) which rises above the 
village of Goldau, is composed, like the Rigi, of ^Nagelflue", a conglomerate 
of limestone and flint pebbles imbedded in a calcareous cement. This rock, 
itself extremely hard, is interstratified with sandstone and other soft for- 
mations, which are apt to be disintegrated by exposure to the air, or saturat- 
ed by subterranean waters, in which case they descend suddenly into the 
valleys in the form of huge streams of mud. The superincumbent strata 
of conglomerate, being thus deprived of their support, are also from time 
to time precipitated into the valleys. On 2nd Sept., 1806, one of these 
strata, upwards of 1 M. in length, lOOO' in breadth, and 100* in thickness, 
was precipitated from a height of dOOff into the valley below, burying four 
villages with 457 of their inhabitants, filling up one-fourth of the Lake 
of Lowerz, and converting the smiling landscape into a rocky chaos. The 
village of Lowerz, 3 H. to the E. of Goldau, lost its church and some of 
its houses by the same catastrophe. — Ascent of the Rotsberg^ see p. 94. 

The railway traverses part of this scene of desolation, which 
extends a considerable way up the Rigi. Time has covered the frag- 
ments of rock with moss and other vegetation, and pools of stagnant 
water have been formed between them at places. The track of the 
landslip may be distinctly traced on the side of the Rossberg, which 
Is still entirely barren. 

On the slope to the left lie the houses of Steinenberg (p. 94) ; 
on the right, high above, is the Kurhaus Rigi-Scheideyg (p. 87). 
The train rounds the pretty Lowerzer See (1476'; 274 M. long). 
To the right lies the village of Lowerz , and in the middle of the 
lake the island of Schwanau with its ruined castle. — 24^2 M. 
Steinen (1525'; RossW), a considerable village in a fertile situa- 
tion, the traditional birthplace of Werner Stauff acker (^.79). On 
the supposed site of his house stands a chapel with old frescos, 
which is said to have been erected in 1400. The train crosses the 
8teinen-Aa to — 

26 M. Bchwyz-Seewen. The village of 5c«cen (1515'; *Rossli; 
Stem), to the W. of the line, at the foot of the E. spur of the Rigi, 
has a chalybeate bath which attracts visitors. About 1 M. to the E. 
lies Sohwya (1686' j pop. 6543; •iJoaait, R., L., & A. 2-3 fr. ; 



to Bellinzona. SCHWYZ. 30. Route, 97 

*H6telHediger^ same charges), a straggling town, lying picturesquely 
at the base and on the slopes of the Little Mythe (5954Q with its two 
peaks , and the Oreat Mythe (62449. The Parish Church (1774) is 
considered one of the handsomest in Switzerland. The Town Hall 
contains portraits of 43 'landammanns' (magistrates) from 1534 
downwards, and an old carved ceiling. The large Jesuit Monastery ^ 

above the town, is now a grammar-school. 

The • G^eat Uythe (6244' ; 3V2 hrs. \ guide 4 fr. , unnecessary for the 
experienced -, horse to the Holzegg 8-10 fr.), ascended without difficulty by 
a good but somewhat dizzy path, is a magnificent point of view, hardly 
inferior to the Rigi and Pilatus. Road from Schwyz to (iV4 M.) Bickenbach 
(Stem, good, pens. 4 fr. \ Bellevue, very primitive) ^ hridle-path thence to 
the (I'/s hr.) Holzegg (5010*), which may also be reached by a more direct 
path from Schwyz via St. Joseph (guide desirable). — From Brunnen by 
Ibach and Bickenbach to the Holzegg in 2V»-3 hrs. , Schwyz remaining on 
the left. — Good path from Einsiedeln by Alpthal to the Holzegg in 2V4 
hrs. — From the Holzegg the new Hythen path (railings at the steepest 
parts) ascends in 48 zigzags on the E. side of the mountain, and then follows 
a narrow arSte to the (iVi hr.) summit (Inn, new, 10 beds). Good panorama 
by A. Helm. 

We now turn to the S. (passing the Frohnalpstock on the left, 
with the Kurhaus Stoos far above us, p. 78), cross the Muota 
near Ingenbohl, and reach — 

28 Y2 M. Brunnen (1434'; p. 78), the most frequented spot on 
the Lake of Lucerne. (Station on the N.W. side, 1/2 M. from the lake.) 
Passing through a tunnel under the Gutsch and the Axen- 
strasse (p. 79), the train now reaches the *Umer See, or S.E. 
bay of the Lake of Lucerne (p. 79), and is carried along its bank 
by a series of tunnels and rock-cuttings. Splendid views of the 
lake to the right. High above it, on the opposite bank, lie the 
houses of Seelisberg^ at the foot of which are the Mythenstein and 
Rutli (p. 79) ; and further distant towers the Uri-Rothstock with 
its glacier (p. 80). We pass through the Hochfluh Tunnel 
(640 yds.), the St, Franciseus Tunnel (212 yds.), and the Oelberg 
Tunnel (2169 yds.), the second-longest on the line. 32^2 M. 
Sisikon, at the mouth of the narrow RiemenstcU>denthal (p. 76). 
Crossing the Axenstrasse, and enjoying fine glimpses of the lake 
and the Uri-Rothstock to the right, we traverse the Stutzeck Tunnel 
(1082 yds.) and others, passing TeWs Platte (chapel not visible; 
p. 79), the Axenberg (3670' long), and the Sulzeck^ to — 

36 M. Fluelen (1434' ; Rail. Restaur, ; comp. p. 80), the port 
of Uri, and the starting-point of the high-ioad over the St. Gott- 
hard, formerly a busy depot of vehicles of every kind. 

We now ascend the broad lower Reussthal, with the Bristen" 
stock (p. 99) in the background, and the two Windgdllen (p. 110) 
to the left of it. 

38 M. Altdorf, or ilitor/" (1466'; pop. 2901 ; *H6t. de la Oare, 
nnpretending, R. 1-2 fr. ; ^SchlUssel; *Lbwe; Krone; *Tellj un- 
pretending ; beer at Reiser s)t the capital of Canton Uri, 1 M. from 
the station, lies in a fertile valley surrounded by mountains. 

Bardbkkb, Switzerland. 12th Edition. 7 



98 BouUSO. ERSTFELD. From Lucerne 

This pleasant little town is the traditional scene of the exploits of 
William Tell, the liberator of Switzerland from the Austrian yoke. A colos- 
sal Statue of Tell^ in plaster, erected in 1861, is said to occupy the spot 
whence the intrepid archer aimed at the apple placed on his son^s head by 
order of the tyrant Gessler. About 150 paces distant stands a fountain, 
with a statue of Betler^ a magistrate of the town, erected on the supposed 
site of the lime-tree by which TelFs child stood while awaiting his father''s 
arrow, and which is said to have flourished here till 1567. Some say that 
the lime-tree was thirty paces farther back, on the ground where the tower 
now stands; but the latter is known to have existed before the 14th cent. 

The Church contains a Madonna in relief, by Imhof. The Ca" 

puehin Monastery y abOTe the church, and the neighbouring Pavilion 

Waldeck command beautiful views. (Ascent near the tower, or 

from below Toll's statue.) Above the monastery lies the Bannwald^ 

a 'sacred grove', in which the woodman's axe is proscribed, as it 

protects Altdorf from falling rocks (see Schiller's Tell, Actiii, Scene 3). 

To the right, beyond the town, is a A'tifUMry, to the left ihe Arsenal; 
then, about 1 M. to the left, the village of Biirglen (180i^ Tell), prettily 
situated on a height at the entrance to the 8chdchenthal (p. 62), the tra- 
ditional birth-place of Tell. The supposed site of his house is marked 
by a Chapely erected in 1522, and adorned with paintings of his exploits. 

Through the Sch&ehenthal and over the Klatuen to Btcuhelberg,, see 
B. 20. A glimpse at the SchAohenthal is best obtained by ascending from 
Weiterschteanden or Spiringen (p. 63) in about iVs hr. to one of the fanui- 
houses in the Kessel (4505')^ which afford a most picturesque survey of the 
grand head of the valley (Scheerhorn, Griesgletscher, Kammlistock, and 
Glaridenstock) , with beautiful fresh pastures and dark pine-forest in the 
foreground. — The B.os8-8tock (8080' \ 5 hra. ; with guide), a splendid point 
of view , is ascended from Biirglen. Descent, if preferred, through the 
Riemensialdenthal to Sisikon (p. 97). 

The train now crosses the wild Schdchenhach in its artificial bed, 
near its confluence with the Reuss. From among fruit-trees to the 
left peeps the pretty church of Schattorf. To the right, beyond the 
Reuss, we observe the church-tower and the ruined castle ofAtting- 
hausen, in which the Baron Werner of Attinghausen mentioned in 
Schiller's Tell is said to have died in 1307. The background of 
the valley towards the S. is formed by the pyramidal Bristenstock 
(p. 99); to the right rise the bold precipices of the Qitschen (8334') 
and the Boeldi (6810'); to the left the Miiiagstock (6663'), Belmi- 
stoek (7933'), Hohe Faulen (8212'), and lastly the two Windgallen 
{Qro68€, or Kalkatock, 10,463'; Kleine, or Sewelistock, 9846'). 

41 V2 M. Erttfeld (1503'- HofErstfeld, H6t. Bahnhof, both at 

the station), a large railway-dep6t , where the ascent begins and a 

heavier locomotive is attached to the train. The village lies on the 

opposite bank of the Reuss , at the mouth of the Eratfelder Thaly 

above which peep the jagged Spannorter , the Engelberg-Rothstockj 

and the strangely contorted Schlossherg Glacier. 

The interesting Brstfelder Thai (comp. Map, p. 114), flanked by steep 
and lofty mountains, extends to the Schlossberg Olacier (4 hra.). At the 
head of the valley are two Alpine lakes, the gloomy Favlenseej Va ^^- from 
the glacier, and the Obersee (6463'), */* br. farther to the S., at the base 
of the Krdnlet or KrSnte (10,197'). The FavUnbaehy which flows out of the 
latter, forms a beautiful fall. Fatiguing passes (10-11 hrs. j for adepts 
nly, with good guides) lead hence over the Schlossberg-LUcle (8635') and 
'er the Spannort-Joch (9610") to Engelberg (comp. p. 116). 



to BeUintona, AMSTEG. 30. Route. 99 

From Erstfeld or Altdorf over the Surenen to Engelberff, see p. 116. 

The Reussthal narrows, and tlie train begins to ascend on the 
right bank. 45 M. Stat. Amsteg (ITQS'), ibove Silenen^ a village in 
tlie midst of fruit-trees. Near the station , on a rocky hill to the 
right, are the ruins of Zwing-Vrij traditionally a castle of Gessler. 
About 1 M. to the S. lies the village of Amsteg (1760' ; *Stem, or 
Post; *Hir8ch; HoU-Pens. Freihof, in all, R. 1V2-2, 'pens.' 4-6 fr.), 
prettily situated at the mouth of the Maderaner Thai, through which 
the Karsteleribaeh descends to the Reuss. 

'^Maderaner Thal (bridle-path in 3V4 hrs. to the H5tel Alpenclub), 
see B. 32. — Over the Kr&zli Pass or the Brunni Pass to Disentis and over 
the Clariden Pass to BtacheWerg^ see p. 110. 

The BrUtenstock (lO^OQCr; 8-9 hrs.; very fatiguing; guide 20 fr.), as- 
cended from Amsteg by the Bristenalp and the Blaekialp^ affords a grand 
hut hardly repaying panorama. Descent to the Ettlithal or Fellithal diffi- 
cult. — Oberalpstoek (10,922), Kleine and Cfrosse WindgalU (9800' and 
10,470'), etc., see p. 109, 110. — The Hohe Faulen (8290'; 5 hrs., with 
guide; not diflicult and attractive) may be ascended from Silenen through 
the Evithal and over the Strengmatt, Rhonen^ and Balmeten Alps. 

The St. Gotthard Road from Amsteg to Goschenen (comp. Map, p. 96) is 
recommended to walkers, both for the sake of the scenery and for the op- 
portunity it affords of examining the interesting railway. It crosses the 
Karstelenbach and then the Keuss by a bridge of two arches. To the left runs 
the railway; below us dashes the Beuss through its deep ravine, forming a 
succession of waterfalls. In the early summer huge masses of avalanche- 
snow, looking like earth or detritus, are seen in some of the gorges. Be- 
yond (1^4 ^0 I^^i^chi (2168' ; Lamm) we pass a fall of the Inscki-Alpbaeh. A 
picturesquely situated bridge carries the road back to the right bank of 
the Reuss (the railway remaining on the left bank), on which lies (IV2 M.) 
Meitsehlingen, with a chapel. About V2 M. farther we cross the Fellibaeh. 
(Through the narrow FellirThal or FeUenen-Thal, which abounds in 
crystals, the Oberalp-See may be reached by the FeW-LUcke in 6 hrs. ; 
p. 353.) On the hill opposite stands the hamlet of Gvrtnellen (5153'). 
Beyond the village of Wyler is (3 M".) a third bridge (2661'), called the 
Pfaffensprnng Cpriest's leap", from the tradition that a monk once leaped 
across the stream here with a girl in his arms), by which the road re- 
crosses to the left bank. The first of the curved tunnels of the railway 
begins here (see below). Far below, the river dashes through a narrow gorge. 
View beautiful in both directions. The road crosses the turbulent Mtierv- 
Reuss (p. 123) shortly before reaching (IV2 H.) Wasen (p. 100). To the 
right are the three railway-bridges. A path to the right, 50 yds. beyond 
the bridge, cuts off the windings of the road which ascends to the loftily 
situated church. 

Kear (^/* M.) Wattingen (2998') is the fourth bridge over the Beuss, 
above which, to the right, is a fall of the Rohrbach (p. 100). The (1 M.) fifth 
bridge iScMnibrilck, 3212') crosses to the left bank of the Beuss. To the 
left rises the Tev/etsstein^ a huge mass of rock. The next place (IV2 H.) 
is Gdsehenen (3488'; p. 100). Thence to Andermatt, see p. 106. 

The most interesting part of the line begins here. Above the 
village of Amsteg it pierces a projecting rock by means of the Wind- 
gatle Tunnel (1828'; 189 yds. long), crosses the Karstelenbach by 
an imposing iron bridge (147yds. long, 177' high; fine view of the 
deeply-cut Maderaner Thai, with the Grosse Windgalle, to the left, 
and of the Reussthal to the right), and is then carried through the 
slope of the Bristenstock, which is much exposed to avalanches, by 
means of the two Bristenlaui Tunnels (436 yds. and 234 yds. long), 
and across the brawling Reuss by an iron *Bridge 256' high. We 

7* 



100 Route 30. GOSOHENEN. From Lucerne 

now follow the left hank of the pictnresque Reussthal (ylews to the 
left), traverse the Jnschi Tunnel (96 yds.), cross the Intchialpbach 
and the Zraggenthal (viaduct about 100 yds. long), thread the short 
Zgraggen^ Breitenj and Meitschlinger tunnels and a long cutting, 
and skirt the hill-side hy a viaduct to (50 M.) Gurtnellen (2297'). 

Above Gurtnellen we come to one of the most remarkable parts 
of the line, which in order to facilitate the ascent to Goschenen 
(see below) passes through three curved tunnels and round a wide 
bend. It crosses the Gomerenhach and the Hagrigenbach (fine 
waterfall on the right), enters, near the Pfaffensprung^Brucke 
(p. 99), the Pfaffensprung Loop Tunnel (1635 yds., 3 min.), in 
which it mounts 115', goes through the short Miihle Tunnel, re-cross- 
es the Hagrigenbach (overlooking the Pfaffensprung bridge on the 
left), and then traverses the Muhren Tunnel (2822'; 93 yds. long). 
Then follow a handsome bridge over the deep ravine of the Meien- 
reuss (p. 123), the Kirchberg Tunnel under the *chuTch-hill' of 
Wasen (330 yds.), a bridge across the Reuss to the left, theWattin- 
ger Loop Tunnel (1199 yds. ; ascent of 760, another bridge over 
the Reuss, and the Rohrbctch Tunnel (242 yds.). 55 M. Wasen 
(3055'), a considerable village (*^6t. rfe«ilip«a; *0ch8; Krone; Re- 
staur. Post^j with a loftily situated church commanding an ad- 
mirable survey of the bold structure of the railway. — Over the 
Susten to Meiringen^ see R. 37. 

The imposing *Mittlere Meienreuss Briicke (69 yds. long, 260' 
high) and the Leggistein Loop Tunv^el (1204 yds. ; ascent of 82') 
carry us to the third or Upper Meienreuss Bridge (59 yds. long; 
148' high), beautifully situated. We then pass through the Afeien- 
kreu% Tunnel (3251'; 84 yds. long), skirt the hill -side, and obtain 
a view of Wasen and the windings just traversed. Opposite rises 
the Riemer Stock (9785'). Crossing the Kellerback and the Rohr- 
bach, the train passes through the Naxberg Tunnel (1719 yds. ; ascent 
of 118'), crosses the deep gorge of the Ooschenen Reuss (bridge 
69 yds. long, 161' high; view of the Ooschenenthal to the right, 
with the beautiful Dammafirn, p. 104), and reaches — 

591/2 M. Gdsohenen, or Oeschenen (3640'; *Rail. Restaur. ^ D. 
3^2 ^r* j *H6t. Goschenen f opposite the station, R., L., & A. 3 fr. 
75 c. ; '^Rossli, in the village, 1/4 M. distant, R. & A. 2 fr. ; H6t. de 
la Gate; St. Gotthard; Lowe; Krone). — From Goschenen to Airolo 
by the St. Gotthard Road, 22 M., see R. 31. 

Immediately beyond the station the train crosses the Gotthard- 
Reuss (p. 107) by a bridge 105' high, and enters the great St. 
Gotthard Tunnel, which is 16,309 yds. (91/4 M.) in length, being 
2930 yds. (I2/3 M.^ longer than the Mont Cenis Tunnel. The 
central point is 378d' above the sea-level, from which it descends 
on both sides, about 6' in 1000' towards Goschenen and 2' in 1000' 
towards Airolo. The work was begun in June 1872, at Goschenen, 
\nd a month later at Airolo, and the boring was completed on 



to BeUinzona. AIBOLO. 30, EouU. 101 

29th Feb. 1880. During seven years and a half no fewer than 
2500 workmen were on an average employed here daily, and the 
number sometimes rose to 3400. The cost was estimated at 
50 million fr. (2 million pounds sterling), but that sum was ex- 
ceeded by 63/4 millions (270,000^.). The boring machines used 
were on the improved Ferroux system, worked by compressed air. 
The tunnel, 28' broad and 21' high, is lined with masonry 
throughout, and is laid with a double line of rails. As a current 
of fresh air (temperature 70" Fahr.) constantly passes through the 
tunnel, it is unnecessary to close the windows. The tunnel runs 
at a depth of 1083' below Andermatt, 6076' below the Kastelhorn 
(which rises above the centre of the tunnel), and 3350' below the 
Sella Lake. Express trains take20min. to pass through the tunnel, 
slow trains 27-30 min. ; at intervals of 1000 metres are placed 
lanterns on each side of the tunnel, numbered I to XV, the even 
numbers being on the right side and the uneven on the left. 

691/2 M. Airolo (3756'; *Po8ta, R., L., & A. 3-31/2, I>. ^% 
B. IV4 ft.; *^ot, Airolo y R. & A. 2V2 ft- » *S6t. des Alpes, 
*B6L Lomhardi , both at the station) , in the upper valley of the 
Ticino (^VcUle LeventincL, p. 103), the first Italian-Swiss village, re- 
built since a fire in 1877. 

A drive from Airolo to Giomico in an open carriage is very inter- 
eating (comp. p. 96% one-horse to F&ido 10, to Giomico 19 fr.). — Bridle- 
path through the Vdi Bedretto and over the Nufenen Pass to Wallis^ see 
p. 293% over the 8. Oiacomo Pass (7572') to the Falls o/the Tosa^ see p. 296. 
Throngh the Vol Maggia to Looarno, see p. 414. Through the Vol Ca- 
naria and over the Unleralp Pass (8303') to Andermatt (8 hrs.), fatiguing ; 
the ascent very steep. Over the Bocca di Cadlimo (JSSS7') to iS. Maria in 
8 hrs. attractive. — By Passo Bomengo to Val Maigels^ see p. 358. 

Fbok Aibolo to Disemtis thbough the Val Pioba (10 hrs., guide, 
unnecessary, to Piora 6, to S. Maria 10 fr.; horse to Piora, 3 hrs., 12 fr.). 
Descending the St. Gotthard road for */* M., we cross the Canaria to the 
left, and ascend to (20 min.) Madrono (41090. After 1/4 hr. more the path 
ascends the slope to the left to (20 min.) BrugTuuco (4548'). It then runs 
on nearly at the same level, overlooking the picturesque Val Ticino, and 
afterwards through wood. From (V4 hr.) Altanca (4567' ; Inn) we ascend to 
tbe left in zigzags past a small chapel to (40 min.) Valle (a spring by the 
wayside). The rock below it bears a very ancient inscription. In 
the gorge to the right are several picturesque waterfalls. Fine retro- 
spect of the Alps of Ticino. We next cross a rocky saddle to the 
(Va hr.) sequestered Lake Ritom (6000'), on a hill to the left of which 
is the "^Hdtel Piora (sheltered, and suitable for some stay). Pine-woods 
close to the hotel. Several good points of view in the neighbourhood 
{Fongio^ Pian* Allo^ Camoghi^ Punta Nera^ Taneda etc.). In secluded 
basins lie six small lakes (and there are four others just beyond the ridges 
in the direction of the Val Cadlimo'). Great variety of geological formations 
and of plants. — The path to J3. Maria (3V4 hrs. ; porter 7 fr.) leads round 
the lake, to the left. By the (20 min.) Ritom Chalets we ascend the slope 
to the left by a narrow path to the (20 min.) chapel of S. Carlo. Orossing 
the brook, and passing a cross on the right (leaving the small lake of Ca- 
dagno, with its summer hamlet to the left), we reach (V4 hr.) Piora^ a 
poor hamlet, and (V4 hr.) MuiHnasciOy a group of huts. The path, indi- 
cated by crosses, leads straight on for V4 hr., and then ascends to the 
left Farther on it always bears to the left. {The last huts of Piano de' 
Porei lie to the right, below us. Persons bound for Olivone may from 



102 Route 30. FAIDO. From Lucerne 

this point cross direct by the Ptuto Columbe (7792*), between the Scai and 
Pie Columbe^ to the Casaccia hospice^ p. 855.J We ascend the secluded 
Vol Termine, with the Piz dell" U<mo (9022') on the left, to the (3/4 hr.) 
summit of the TJomo Pass (7257' ; 10 min. before reaching which we pass 
a good spring by a heap of stones), with its deserted hut. Descent on the 
other side marshy at places. Before us to the right rises the Scopi, to 
the left in the distance the Todi chain. The (1 hr.) Hospice of St. Maria ^ 
see p. 355. Thence to Disentis, or across the Lukmanier to Olivone, see B. 94. 

Below Airolo the train crosses the Ticino^ which descends from 
the Val Bedretto (p. 292), passes through the Stcdvedro-Tunnel 
(209 yds.), and enters the Stretto di Stalvedro. On the left bank of 
the Tlcino the high-road runs through four rock-cuttings. The 
valley expands. 73 M. Ambii-Piotta. To the left lies Quinto. 
Beyond (76 M.) Bodi-Fiesso (3110') we come to one of the most 
curious parts of the line (comp. the map, p. 97). The Platifer 
(Monte Piottino) here projects into the valley from the N. ; the Tl- 
cino has forced its passage through the barrier, descending in a 
series of falls through a wild rocky gorge to a lower region of the 
valley, while the railway accomplishes the descent by means of 
two circular tunnels. At Dazio Orande It crosses the Tlcino 
(striking view down the valley), is carried through the Dazio 
Tunnel (388 yds.) and the short Artoito Tunnel ^ and enters the 
Freggio Loop Tunnel (1712 yds.), from which it emerges into the 
Piottino Ravine, 118' lower down. It then recrosses the Tlcino, at 
a point where the scenery is very fine, passes through the Monte 
Piottino and Pardorea tunnels, and descends 118' more by means 
of the Prato Loop Tunnel (1711 yds.), beyond which we enjoy a 
view of the beautiful valley of Faido. Crossing the Ticino by the 
Polmengo Bridge, and going through another tunnel, we reach — 

81 M. raido (2352'; *Angelo, R. & A. 21/2, pens. 5-8 fr. ; *mL 
Faido, at the station; *Hdt.-Pens. Fran^roW, pens., in cl. wine, 7fr. ; 
Prince of Wales, Italian ; H6t, Velio), the capital of the Leventina, 
very picturesquely situated. On the right the Piumogna descends 

to the Ticino in a fine waterfall. 

The "Valle Leventina , or Valley of the Ticino , formerly belonged to 
Canton Uri, and was governed in the most despotic manner by bailiffs, who 
purchased their appointment from the Landsgemeinde, as was the custom 
in almost all the democratic cantons , as well as in the republics of anti- 
quity. A revolt broke out in 1755, but was suppressed with the aid of the 
Swiss troops. The French put an end to this mode of government in 1798, 
and in 1815 the Congress of Vienna formed the Leventina and other Italian 
districts into the new canton of Tessin or Ticino. 

From Faido over the Predelp Pass to the Lukmanier, see p. 355. 

The train now carries us through beautiful scenery on the left 
bank of the Ticino ; the numerous campanUi in the Italian style, 
crowning the hills , have a very picturesque effect. To the right 
lies Chiggiogrui, with an old church. From the cliffs on both sides 
fall several cascades, the veil-like fall of the Cribiasca on the right, 
near (851/2 M.) LavorgOy being the finest. Huge masses of rock lie 
scattered about, Interspersed with fine chestnut-trees. Vines and 
lulberries begin to appear. Below Lavorgo the Tlcino forces its 



lo BetUmOfui. BELLINZONA. 30. Route. 103 

way through the pictnreaqne BiMoUna BtiTine to a lower region of 
the villey, and formi a fine waterfall, while the railway flescendB 
■boot 302' on the left bank by means of two loop-tunnels, one be- 
low the other in cork-acrew fashion. We pass thiongh the La Lumt 
l^ntul (508 yds.), eroae the Pianotondo Viaduct (114 ydi. long), 
and then enter the Pirmotrmdo Loop Tunnel (1643 yds. ; descent of 
115'). Neit follow the short Tnun^quit Tunnel, the Trari Viaduct 
(67 yds.}, anil the Tram Loop Turmtl (1706 yds. ; desoeut of 118'J, 
from which we emerge npon the floor of the lower Valle LeTentina. 
Crosaing the Ticino, we neit reach — 

90 M. Qiomico (1480'}. The large Tillage (1296'; Ceno; Co- 
rona), picturesquely eituated on the left bank, II/4 M. to the S., 
has an old Lombard Cower and remains of fortiflcatione near the 
chnrch of S. Maria di Catiello. The well-preaerved ehnrch of S. 
Kieeolb da Mira, in the earliest Romaneaque atyle, ia said to occupy 
the site of a heathen temple. Below Gioinico the train crosees the 
Tidno by a bridge 132 yds. long. On the Tight is the pretty fall of 
the Cratnoiina. 94 M. Bodio(1086'; Posto). Beyond Pb««spio(Co- 
Tons) the Br«nno descends from Che Val BUgno (p. 356) on the left, 
and is twice crossed by the line. The valley of the Ticino uow 
expands and takes the name of Ehiiera down to the mouth of the 
Hoesa. Luxuriant vines, chestnuts, walnuts, mulberries, and flg- 
treea now remind the traveller of his proiimtty to 'the garden of 
the eatUi, fail Italy'. The vines extend their dense foliage over 
wooden trellis-work supported by stone piUara, 6-10' in height. 

98 H. Biaua {Bail. Restaur. ; in the village, 1 M. from the 
station, Union et Po»ie, well spoken of), with an old Romanesque 
charch on a hill (1112'). A series of oratories nearthe station as- 
cends to the PeironiUa Chapel, loftily situated, near which is the 
beautiful 'Froda or St. PetroniUa Walerfoll. — To Oltoane, and 
over the Lukmanier to Disentis, see R. 94. 

The train skirts the base of the richly clothed E. slopes of Che 
valley, which is very hot and dusty in summer. lOl'/z M. Oiogna 
(965'i Pasta') lies at Che foot of an abrupt rock with a rounded 
snmmit. Near Cresdano, to the left, are the pretty Boggtra Falls. 
105 M. Clsro (lOa?"} lies at the baae of the Plszo di Clato (8920'), 
a beautiful mountain with luxuriant pasCures, on the slope of which, 
to the left, stands the monastery of 8. Maria (2074'). Beyond 
(iOT'A M.)Ca«tione the train pasaea the month of the Val Mesocco 
(p. 366) and crosses the Mdeta. To the left lies Arbeda (p. 366). We 
now approach Bellinzona, a most picturesque-looking place, with 
its lofty pinnacled walls and its three picturesque old castlea, 

109 M. BaUimoiM, Ger. BeUam (760'; pop. 2436; 'Fostt tt 
Pens. Suisse, R., L., & A. 3 fr.; *Angelo: B6t. BelUmona ; Rail. Be- 
itaUT.), a town of quite Italian character , with a handsome abbey- 
church of the 16th cent., ia the capital of Canton Ticino. It is com- 



104 RouU3l. GOSCHENEN-THAL. 

manded on the W. by the C<uteUo Orande , on an isolated hill ; on 
the E. by the CasUUo di Mezzo ^ or di Svitto^ and the CaateUo Cor-' 
bario or Corbh, the highest of the three (1502'). In the middle 
ages Bellinzona was strongly fortified by the Yisconti and others, 
and was regarded as the key to the route from Lombardy to Ger- 
many. The fortifications have been partly restored of late. 

The three castles were the residencea of the three Swiss BaiUfTs (comp. 
p. 103) , in whom the iudicial and executive authority waa vested. Each 
castle had a small garrison and a few cannons. The Castello Orande^ which 
affords a striking view, belonged to Uri, and is now used as a prison and 
arsenal (visitors admitted ; fee). The Cattello di Mezzo belonged to Schwyz \ 
the upper, the Castello Corbario, now in ruins, to Unterwalden. — Beauti- 
ful walk (IVt hr. in all) towards the 8. of the town) up the road to the 
highest castle, with charming views, but not quite up to the gate, where 
the hill becomes more level and is planted with lofty chestnuts ; then 
back, and through the vineyards to the conspicuous pilgrimage-chapel of 
S. Maria delta Salute^ another admirable point of view ; lastly, to the left 
of the chapel, back to the station. 

Ascent of the Monte Camoghh (from Bellinzona 7-8 hrs.), (with guidj^, 
see p. 410. — Over the Pa»so di B. Jorio to the Lake of Como^ see p. 42o. 

From Bellinzona to Lugano and Como^ see p. 407; to Locarno^ 
p. 410; to LavenOj p. 416. 

31. From Ooschenen to Airolo over the St. Gotthard. 

22 H. DiLiGKNCs from Ooschenen to Andermati 4 times daily in 1 hr. 
(fare ij/a, coupd 1 fr. 80 c.)^ to Hoepenthal 4 times in IV2 hr. (2 fr. 25 or 
2 fr. 7()c.). No diligence from Hospenthal over the 8t. Gotthard. Omni- 
BU8S8 from the Goschenen station to the Andermatt (l-iVs fr.) and Hospen* 
thai hotels (2 fr.). Gabriaok and pair from Gosohenen to Hospental 10, to 
the Hospice 40, to Airolo 60-70 fr. 

The St. Gtitthard was probably the most frequented of the Alpine 
passes down to the beginning of this century, but being crossed by a 
Dridle-path only it was gradually deserted for the new roads over the 8im- 
plon, the 8plugen, and the Bernardino. In 1820-32 the cantons of Url 
and Ticino constructed the carriage-road, which for half-a-century was the 
scene of busy trafflc ; but since the completion of the railway it has again 
become deserted. Travellers will, however, be repaid by a drive in an 
open carriage or a walk over the pass. Those wnosc chief object is to 
make excursions from the Hospice will reach it more quickly from Airolo 
than from Goschenen. 

OdBchenen (36400, on the St. Gotthard Railway, see p. 100. 

The Q6iohenen-Thal (3 hrs. to the Goschenen-Alp, guide unnecessary; 
provisions should be taken) deserves a visit. A good path leads by Ab- 
fruit to (IV4 hr.) Wieki (4350') , where the Vor'alper Reuse dashes from the 
Kaltbrunnen-Kehle, a ravine on the right; then by St. Niklaue and the Brin- 
dlistaffel (5043') to the (IV4 hr.) Ottschenen-Alp (6040'), grandly situated. To 
the W. descends the beautiful Dammaflm from the Winterberff range (which 
culminates in the Dammattock and Rhone»tock)\ and 1 hr. farther up the 
valley the Goschenen-Reuss issues from the Kehle Olaeiery imbedded be- 
tween the Wintcrberg and Steinberg. — A moderately easy and very in- 
teresting path (7 hrs., with guide) leads from the Goschenen-Alp over 
the Alpligen-OUtscher and the Alpligen-Llioka (SllO'), between the Loch" 
berg and Smtzberg (p. 102), to Realp (p. 102). The 8.E. peak of the *Loch- 
btrg (94000i whlcli affiirdi a splendid view of the Galenstock gronp and 
the Alps of the Vulais ns far as Hont Blanc, is easily ascended in '/i hr. 
from tne pans. — Several difncult passes, At for experts only, cross from 
^he G6schonen-Alp to the Rb(me and Trift Glaciers ( THnten/ocA, Dammapaesy 
^aatplankjoch; comp. p. 123). Over the Buettn-Limmi (10,180*) or the 



DEVlL^S BRIDGE. 31. Route. 105 

TMerberg-Limmi (about 10,50(/) to the Steinalp, 9 hrs., laborioiu (see p. 128). 
— Ascent of the Plecki«tock(iSf^t<zK6«r^, 11,214'; guideSOfr.) for experts only, 
difficult. We ascend from Wicki (see above) through the Kaltbrunnen-KehU 
to the (11/4 hr.) Hom/eli-Alp (5850*; spend night). At the head of the 
valley, in view of the WaUenbUhlJim^ we mount to the right to the FlUhen 
(78740 j then over loose stones and steep rock to the summit (6 hrs. from 
the Hornfeli-Alp). 

Above the Goschenen station the *St. Gotthabd Road crosses 
the ReuBS by the Vordere, or Hddtrli-Brueke (3720'). On the left 
are the railway bridge and the N. end of the great tunnel. Here, 
Vi M. beyond Goschenen , begins the sombre rocky defile of the 
^ehollenen (21/2 M. long), bounded by lofty and almost perpendic- 
ular granite rocks, at the base of which dashes the Reuss. The road 
ascends by numerous windings, most of which may be cut off by 
footpaths or the old bridle-path passing the disused Lange Brucke 
(no saving effected by crossing it), and crossing the Sprengibruck 
(4048*). The road in the Sch5Uenen is much exposed to avalanches, 
and at one of the most dangerous points Is protected by a gallery, 
60yd8. long, at the farther end of which is the bull's head of Uri. 

The road next crosses (2^/4 M. from Goschenen) the •Bevil'i 
Bridge (Teufelshruckej 4593'), amidst wild and grand rocky scenery. 
The Reuss here falls in a picturesque cascade into an abyss 100' be- 
low, bedewing the bridge with its spray. The wind (aptly called 
'Hutschelm*, or *hat-rogue', by the natives) sometimes comes down 
the gorge In violent gusts, and endangers the hats of the unwary. 
The new bridge, built of granite in 1830, has a single arch of 26' 
span. The old bridge, 20' below, is disused and over-grown with 
moss. 

A battle between the French and the Austrians took place here on 
14th Aug., 1799, with the resnlt that the latter were compelled to retreat 
over the Oberalp to Disentis. A month later the tide of fortune turned. Suvo- 
roff, after several sharp skirmishes in the Val Tremola (p. 108), with the aid 
of Rosenberg, who had crossed the Lukmanier and the Oberalp, drove the 
French before him. On the morning of 25th Sept. the Russians forced the 
passage of the Urner Loch with severe loss, but were again checked at the 
Devil's Bridge, which was stoutly defended by the French. The latter at- 
tempted to blow up the bridge, but only succeeded in destroying a stone 
embankment by wliich it was approached. Nothing daunted, the Russians 
gallantly descended under galling fire to the bed of the Reuss, succeeded 
in crossing it and clambering up the opposite bank, and after a fierce 
conflict compelled their enemy to retreat to the Lake of Lucerne. 

Beyond the Devil's Bridge (cabaret; good collection of St. Gott- 
hard minerals) the road winds upwards to the (i/gM.) Timer Loch 
(4642'), a tunnel 70 yds. long cut through the rock in 1707, orig- 
inally broad enough for a bridle-path only. Prior to 1707 a hanging 
chain-bridge , called the Stduhende BruckCj conducted the traveller 
round the Teufelsstein, through a constant shower of spray. 

The Yalley of tJrseren, upon which the road emerges from the 
dark Urner Loch , presents a striking contrast to the wild region 
jnst traversed. This peaceful valley (p. Ill), with its green pastures 
watered by the Reuss, is about 8 M. in length and 1/2 -^ M. in 
breadth, and is surrounded by lofty and barren mountains partially 



106 2?ot<t«3i. ANDERMATT. From Goschenen 

covered with snow. Corn grows here but scantily, and trees are 
scarce. Winter lasts nearly eight months, and during the short 
summer fires are often necessary. 

4 M. Andermatt. — "^Hot.-Pens. Bsllevue, a large hotel, in an open 
situation, Vi M. from the village, R., L., & A. 5-8, B. I1/2, D. 5 fr., high 
charges for carriages (Engl. Ch. Serv.): opposite, Hot.-Pens. Naqee, small; 
St. Gotthabd, R., L., A A. 31/2, D. 4 fr. ; •Dbei Konige, R. & A. 2, B. 
IV4, D. 3 fr. : "HdT. Obekalp, R., L., A A. 2V4, D. 2Vz <r<; *Kbo»e, moderate ; 
Sonne. — Cafi-Rettaw. du TourUie^ by the Bellevue, with a few rooms. 

Andermatt (4738'; pop. 722), or Urseren^ Ital. Oraera^ IV4 M. 
from the Devil's Bridge , the principal village in the valley, is a 
winter resort of invalids. Adjoining the church is a charnel-house 
adorned with skulls bearing inscriptions (comp. p. 70). At the exit 
of the Urner Loch, beside the cliffs to the left, is a much older 
church said to date from the time of the Lombards. The Mariahilf 
chapel affords a good survey : to the W. rises the barren greyBazberg, 
in the background theFurka with its inn, to the left the Muttenhorn \ 
a few paces beyond the chapel, the Six-Madun, or Badus(see below), 
is visible; to the E. in long zigzags ascends the road over the Ober- 
alp (p. 354). St. Gotthard minerals sold by Frau Meyer-Huller. 

From Andermatt over the Oberalp to Coire^ see R. 93; over the Furka 
to the Rhone Olacier^ see R. 33. 

The *Badus, or Six-Xadnn (96160) the huge outpost of the Alps of the 
Orisons, is ascended from Andermatt in 4V2-5 hrs. (guide necessary ^ from 
Tschamut easier and shorter, p. 353). The summit, which consists of blocks 
of gneiss, commands numberless peaks of the Alps of the Orisons, Bern, and 
the Valais , and the whole of the Yorder-Rheinthal. — The Ourachenttoek 
(9423'; 4 hrs.) and Oamastock (9728' ; 41/2 hrs.) are also fine points of view 
(guide necessary). — Over the Unteralp Pats to Airolo (8 hrs.), see p. 101. 

Between Andermatt and Hospenthal we observe the Glacier of 
St. Anna, high above the brow of the mountain to the left. 

51/2 M. Hospenthal (4800'; Meyerhof, R., L., & A. 4-6, B. IV2, 
D. 4-5, pens. 8-10 fr., high charges for carriages) derives its name 
from a hospice which formerly stood here. The tower on the hill is a 
relic of a castle said to have been built by the Lombards. The Furka 
Road (R. 33) diverges to the right beyond the village. 

The St. (jotthard road ascends in numerous windings through a 
bleak valley, on the left bank of that branch of the Reuss which 
descends from the Lake of Lucendro (see below). A short-cut di- 
verges to the left by the second house beyond the Reuss bridge. 
Pleasant retrospects of the Urseren-Thal and the jagged peaks of 
the Spitzberge (p. 112), as far as the Galenstock to the W. To the 
left of the bleak (3 M.) Gamtboden opens the abrupt Gu$pis-Thalj 
at the head of which are the Gutpis Glacier and the Pizza Centrale 
(see below). At a bend in the road (8/4 M.) is the first Cantoniera 
(5876'), at the foot of the Winterhom, or Piz Orsino (8747'). The 
road enters Canton Ticino, passes the second Cantoniera, and crosses 
the Reuss for the last time, near its source in the Lake of Lucendro 
(to the right; not visible), by the (3 M.) Rodont Bridge (6621'). 

To the ■'Lake of Lucendro (6834') a digression of 1/2 hr. only. The 
lath diverges below the Bodont Bridge (on the left bank), leads over masses 



loAirolo. ST. QOTTHARD. 31, SouU, 1"7 

>nit gliden, iDd akirti lU N. bank. To |L« S. risea (he Impwilne ISi 
Lucmdn (9T06'), to the W. tbe fuerlnrMrner <936y), Ihe Pii deir l^iona 
(SaX)'}, elc. — Tbs pith crosaen the ReusB il iU eiit from Ihe Ink?, and 
Rjolna Ihe St. Ootlhurd lOtd on the tap of the p»s. 

On the (1 MO Put of Bt. Ootthu'd C6936'J the road pa^ites 
between Bevera] until lakes. 

peika, exiensWe glulcn, md tboat ihln; small lakes. The pati Is > 
Wren v^leji dealilate of view« boanded on the E. by the predipitona Satao 
•U S. OBIIario (S23(n, aad as tbe W. bv Ibe rocks ot the FObla (»996') and 
Ida niid la PallatU (P331'). Tbe chief peaka of tbe Bl. Oollbard are : E„ 
Iha Prtta IBaSBT) and PttK Cti-trale (9^; lee belooli W., (be ?ti Ln- 
cBtire (9709), ItewAM-Asnt (S^JGfi'), Hi delF Come (8SXK), ud WMUrhor* 
ar m Orrino (STIT'); then, more to the W., [h» Le^hhon (lainty), M^ltia- 
Sam aO.lBn, Rko Fiidora (lO^aSCJ, ««o Jfcdwdi) (10,190'>, Saliboicn- 
Urm (10,08ff), ele. 

133/4 M.Albwgo del 8. Gottwrdo (6867'), V4M. to theS. of the 
raltninating point, formerly an inn. OppOiiteH tbe*H5lel du Monl 
Praia (R., L., & A. 3, D. 4, pens.Str.) adjoined by the Hoipice, 
rhere poor ttavellets ire lodged gratnitously. On a rock a little to 
Ihe g. is tlie old MarUiary Chnptl. 

BxcuBsioHa (enidea for the ahorler alcf nlB at tbe kotel). "Plaaii Cen- 
tiale, or THUhcrn (BBKr), nnl dtfflcult (3"/ibrB.; piide 10 fr.). Bevond 

Suto ain Ooltardo over delrltua to the eniruuce of the Bella Valtti, 
through whtch the route leads. To tbe left JTK, Pnia (see bclun). We 
■kirt Ibe alope high ahore Ibe Sella Late r73%') and aacend a anow-fleld 
to the hue ot tbe peak, which eonilata of eruobUng bomblende. Tbe 



lulljr over aharp rocks to (V>hr,) tbe summit. The ^. peak, 41' higher 
than tbe E., la aeparaled from it by a cbaam 20' deep. VIeii isfariur lo 
that from the Pitio Centrale. 

The_^RbbU_(8998'! SVabra.i guide 7 fr.), a gigantic rock which eom- 



Trenols, t> fat 
•alley oT the T 
4 bn. I guide, II 

frnm diffleally. , =---, 

LKindrB Alp to the rurrfttr /*'», before reaching wbli 
left aod gndnall; mount Ihe IMcaniri} Glodtr li 
Pill then over rock in tbe aummlt. Deacenl to 
p. 1(6). _ lictihors {10,070'), see p. ilB — Pii 



Alp., the Crislallina, Campo Tern 

valley unadvisahle, tbere being ni 

PAaaia. Ovan tbe OuaiHO Pi 



1 eewi, ni 

[S.) or the 



the St. Ootttaard group from the Farka to the Fibbia, (V.W 



108 BouU31, VAL TREMOLA. 

of the Finsteraarhom aud AgassizhoTB, and (N.) of the Galenstock and 
Dammastock range m far aa the Snstenhdrner and Titlis. Descent to 
Bealp across pastares and brushwood. 

OvEB THB Lbgki Pass TO THB FcKKA (10 hrs., with guide), fatiguing, 
but repaying. From the Hotel we ascend the Valletta di a. QoUardo^ 
between the FO^a and the Pizzo la Valletta^ to the (2 hrs.) Passo di 
Lueendro (8330*), whence the Pit Lueendro (see p. 107) may be acended 
(IVs hr.). We then cross to the X. of the Piz (or descend from the Pis) 
to the Wyttentoa*ser-Thal and the Cavanna Pass (p. Ill), traverse the Wyt- 
tenwatter Olaeier, pass the ffUhner»tock ^ and reach (41/2 hrs.) the Lecki 
Pass (95560, lying to the N. of the Leckihom (10,070' i see p. 107^ easily 
ascended from the pass in Vs ^i"*)* Descent across the MtUten Olader, past 
the Muttenhdmer; then an ascent between the Thitrberg and Blauberg to 
the small JSchtedrxe Glacier, and down to the (SVz hrs.) Furka Hotel (p. 111). 

From the Hospice to Airolo is a walk or drive of i^j^^ hre.; 
in the reverse direction 3 hours. In winter and spring the snow- 
drifts on the road-side are often 30-40' high, and sometimes remain 
unmelted throughout the summer. Snow-storms and avalanches are 
most prevalent on the S. side. 

About Y2 ^- ^0 ^^ S.E., below the hospice, the road crosses 
that branch of the Ticino which issues from the 8eUa Lake (see 
p. 107). By the first house of refuge, the CarUonieta 8. Antonio 
(6375'), the road enters the Val Tremola, a dismal valley into 
which avalanches often fall, and descends past the Cantoniera 
8. Oiuseppe (6010') in numerous windings, avoided by the 
old bridle-path. At the third refuge, the Cantoniera di Vol Tremola 
(5564'), the Val Tremola ends and the Valle Leventina (p. 102) 
begins. *View down to Quinto. To the right opens the ValBedretto 
(p. 292), from which the main branch of the Ticino descends. 

22M. Airolo (3868'), 8V2 M. from the St. Gotthard Pass, see p. 101. 

Travellers going from the St. Gotthard to the Val Bedretto need not 
descend to Airolo, but save an hour by leaving the road below the Can- 
toniera di Val Tremola (see above), at the angle of the first great bend 
in the direction of the Val Bedretto. The path descends to the right, and 
at Fontana (p. 292) joins the road leading from Airolo to AirAcqua. 

32. The Maderaner Thai. 

Gomp. Map, p. 60. 

The '^Maderaner Thai, a picturesque valley about 8 M. in length, 
enclosed by lofty mountains (N., the Great and Little Windgdlle, the Qreat 
and Little Ruehen, and the Scheerhom ; S., the Brittenstock, Weitenalpstocky 
Oberalpstock, and Dussiatock), and watered by the turbulent Karstelenbach^ 
is worthy of a visit. Bridle-path (shaded in the early morning) from 
Amsteg to the (3V4 hrs.) H6tel Alpendub (3032" above Amsteg ; horse 12 fr. ; 
porter 6, there and back within two days 12 fr.). Beautiful return-route 
by the Sta/eln (see below), 6-7 hrs., even practicable for ladies. 

Amsteg (1758'), see p. 99. We diverge from the St. Gotthard 
road on the left bank of the Karstelenhach and ascend, passing under 
the huge railway-bridge, by a good zigzag path to the St. Anions- 
KapeUe ; then over gently sloping pastures, shaded with fruit-trees, 
to (50 min.) the hamlet of Briaten (2615'; the 'Caplan* sells good 
wine). The path descends a little, crosses (5 min.) to the right 



MADERANER THAL. 32. RouU. 1 09 

bank of the foaming E&rstelenbach, and again ascends. After 7min. 

we avoid a bridge to the rigbt, leading to the narrow Etzliihal (see 

p. 110), in which a fine waterfall is yisible. After 20min. the path 

lecrosses to the left bank and leads to the (5 min.) houses Am Schat- 

tigen Berg. It then ascends rapidly to (40 min.) a small cabaret on 

the Lungenstutz (3599'), and (8 min.) a cross commanding a fine 

view. Passing through wood at places, we next cross the Oriessen- 

bach and the Staldenhach to (1/2 hr.) the chalets of Stossi (3904'). 

Crossing the Karstelenbach at a (5 min.) Saw-mill^ and passing the 

houses of Balmwald on the left, in 25 min. more we reach the *H6tel 

sum Schweizer Alpenclub (4790'; R., L., & A. 3, D. 4, pens. 8-10 

fr. ; Eng, Ch. Serv,')^ adapted for a stay of some time. Fine view 

from the terrace on the W. side of the house. Pleasant wood- walks 

in the vicinity. The small Butzli-See is 1/2 M* from the hotel. 

To the Hiifi Glacier, an interesting walk (1 hr., guide unnecessary). 
From the inn a path, at first through wood, ascends the grassy slopes 
on the "S. side of the valley (passing opposite the falls of the Brunni- 
bcKh, the 8t&uberb(teh J and the LammerbacK)^ crosses the Schleierbach, 
the Seidenbachy and the Milehbaehey and ascends to (1 hr.) a rocky height 
(51^0'), overlooking the glacier, from which the Karstelenbach issues. 
We may now descend to the end of the glacier (guide necessary, 3-4 fr.) 
and return to the hotel on the left hank of the Karstelenbach, passing the 
waterfalls above mentioned, and crossing the Alp Gufern (3-4 hrs. in all). 

Beautiful return -route to Amsteg by the *8tafeln (6-7 hrs.; 
guide 8 fr.), the lofty pastures on the N. side of the valley. The 
path first leads to the above-mentioned rock overlooking ^e Hiifi 
Glacier (1 hr.), and then ascends to the (1 hr.) Alp Gnof (6234 '), 
the (3/4 hr.) Stafd-Alp (6289') , and the (1/4 hr.) Alp Bemetsmatt 
(6553'; Alpine fare and accommodation), commanding a most ma- 
gnificent *yiew of the Hiifi Glacier, Clariden Pass, Diissistock, 
Tschingel Glacier, Oberalpstock, Weitenalpstock , Crispalt, Bristen- 
stock, Galenstock, Spitzliberg, the Windgallen , and Ruchen. We 
then descend rapidly to the pretty Qolzem*8ee (4636') and the 
(1 hr.) Oolzem-Alp (4583'; good drinking water), and lastly in zig- 
zags through underwood to the hamlet of (I72 li'^-) Briaten and (V2 
hr.) Amsteg (to the station Vi ^'' more). 

Another fine route, but fatiguing, and 1 hr. longer, is from the Alp 
BemeUmatt (see above), to the pastures of Oberhdtem (6389')) and thence 
along the slopes of the Kleine Windgalle (p. 110) over rocks and debris 
(guide advisable) to the Alp Ait/ dem Rilckm (5753'), in full view of the 
Bernese Alps, the Titlis, Maderaner Thai, and Todi, and descending thence 
to Amsteg by Waldtl>erg (41260 and Frenschenberg (2676'). 

ExcDRSioND FROM THE HoTSL Alpbnglub. (Guides: Ambr. and Jot. 
Zgniggen; Jos. Maria ^ Melch.^ and Jot. Thretch; Jos. Furger^ A. Baumann, 
Jot, Indergand and others *, ordinary excursions, 6 fr. per day.) The ascent 
of theDiUuBtock (Pit Oit, 10,703'; 6-7 hrs.; guide 20 fr.) is difficult and 
requires experience. The path leads up the Brunnithal to the (2 hrs.) 
Waltersjirren Alp (6332'), ascends to the left to the (2 hrs.) ResH- Tschingel 
Glacier^ and crosses it *, we then clamber over the precipitous rocks of the 
Kleine DUsti (10,280') and ascend the ardte to the (2 brs.) summit. Splendid 
view. — The Oberalpstock iPiz Tgietschen^ 10,925'; guide 20 fr.), presents no 
serious difficulty to adepts. We either proceed from the Alpenclub Hotel 
to the upper part of the (4-^ hrs.) Brtmni Olacier (p. 110), and ascend 
the snowy slopes, to the right, to the summit in 2-2V2 hrs. ; or cross from 



1 1 RouU 32. MADERANER THAL. 

Amsteg to the upper part of the Strimthal by the XriUU Pau (dee below), 
and ascend across the Strim Glacier, reaching the summit from the S.E. 
side (7-8 hrs. , from Sedrun 1 hr. less). — Weitenalpstock (9872*), 7 hrs., 
very toilsome. — Brittenstock (lOjOSy), see p. 99. — Tiz Oambriales (10,58@Oi 
4-6 hrs. from the Hiifi Club-hut (see below), and Olaridenstoek. (10,728'; 20 fr.), 
5 hrs. from the club-hut, not very difficult for practised climbers. Xammli- 
stock (10,787' ; 20 fr.), 5 hrs. from the club-hut, laborious. — The Grosse 
Windgftlle or Kalktioek (10,463'), from the Alp Bemetsmatt (see p. 109) 
5 hrs., and the GrMse Bcheerhom (10,814'), from the Hufi Club-hut 6 hrs., 
both very difficult, require experience and thorough steadiness (guide 
25 fr.). — Grosse Euchen (10,295'), less difficult, but extremely fatiguing 
(from the Alp Qnof, 6-7 hrs. ^ guide 20 fr.). — The Kleine Windgftlle (^00'), 
from the Alp Oberkdsem (p. 109) by the arSte between the Kleine and 
Grosse Windgalle, in S'/z hrs., is not difficult and very attractive. 

Passes. To Stachelberg over the ^'Clariden Pass (9843'), 11-12 hrs. 
from the Alpenclub Hotel, a grand and most interesting expedition, presents 
no serious difficulty to experts with able guides (30-35 fr.). The route 
ascends the slopes of the Diissistock (p. 109), on the left bank of the MUJi 
Glacier ^ to the (2V2hrs.) Clvb Hut on the finely situated HiiJiAlp (5906'; spend 
night). Then a steep ascent for a short distance, over the moraine to the 
(40 min.) Hiifi Glacier y and gradually up the Hufifirn and Claridenfim to 
the (3-3V2 hrs.) Pan at the S. base of the Claridenstock (10,728'), command- 
ing a fine view of the Todi, the Rheinwaldgebirge, etc. We then descend 
the Claridenfim, passing the BockUchingel ^ a rock with a hole through 
its middle, and the Gemsfayrenttoek (p. 60), and through the dificult 
Wallenbach-Sehlucht to the Altenorenalp^ the AuengUter (p. 61), and (5 hrs.) 
Stachelberg. Or from the Claridenfim (keeping to the right before reach- 
ing the Clariden Pass) we may cross the Hftfl Pass (96460, between 
the Hintere Spittalpelistoek (9852*) and the CattehciravU (10,046*), to the 
Sandfirn, and then either descend to the left to the Upper Sandalp (p. 61) 
or to the right by the Sandgrat to Disentis (p. 351). — Another pass to 
Stachelberg (12-13 hrs. from the Alpenclub Hotel) is the Kammiiliicke 
(9268'), lying between the Bcheerhom and the Kammli*tock (see above), for 
experts not very difficult. Descent over precipitous ice-slopes to the cre- 
vassed Griesgletcher, the KamnUi Alp and the Klausen Pate (p. 62). 

To Untbbschachen over the Buchkehlen Pass, 8-9 hrs., laborious. 
From the Alp Gnof (p. 109) we ascend precipitous grass - slopes , rock, 
and glacier to the pass, between the Grosse and KMae Ruehen, and 
descend steeply through the glacier-clad Ruchkehle into the Brunnithal and 
Schdehenthal (p. 62). — The Scheerhorn-Griggeli Pass (9180') is also toil- 
some. From the Hufi Club-hut we mount the Hiifi Glacier and the Bock- 
tschingelfim to the pass, between the Scheerhorn and the Kleine Buchen, 
and descend to the Obere Lammerhach-Alp and Unterschachen. 

To Disentis over the Brunni Pass (8875'), 8 hrs., interesting , but 
fatiguing (guide 20 fr.). We ascend the Brunnithal by Rinderbiel and 
Waltersfirren (p. 109) to the (2Vs hrs.) Brunni-Alp (6988^, cross the Brvnni 
Glacier to the (2 hrs.) pass between the Piz Cavardirae (9506') on the left 
and the Piz d"Acletta (9570') on the right, and descend through the Aclettor 
Thai to Acletta and (3V2 hrs.) Disentis (p. 851). 

From Amstbo over the Kbuzu Pass (7645') to Sbdsun, 8 hrs., fati- 
guing. Through the Etzlithal to the pass, 5V2 brs. \ thence down the Jstrim- 
Thai to Sedrun (p. 352>, 2V2 hrs. 

33. From Goschenen to the Ehone Glacier. 

The Farka. 

Comp. Map, p. 104. 

25 M. DiLiOBMCB in summer daily in 6V2 hrs. (9 fr. 95, coup^ 11 fr. 

95 c.) ; from Goschenen to Brieg daily in 12 (Brieg to Goschenen 14) hra., 

with 1/2 hour's halt at Tiefenbach, and dining at the Rhone Glacier (22Vs, 

oup^ 27 fr.). — Carrii^e and pair from Goschenen to Brieg 100 fr. One- 



REALP. 35. Route. Ill 

horse carriage from Andermatt to the Furka Hotel 15 (from Bealp 10), 
two-horse carr. 25 fr. ^ to the Rhone Glacier 25 or 40 fr. ; from the Rhone 
Qlacier to the Fnrka 10 or 15 fr. Bargains should be made personally 
vriib. the drivers i carriages hired at the hotels are 20<>/o dearer. 

The *Furka Road, constructed chiefly for military purposes, and form- 
ing a convenient route to or from the Grimsel and the Bernese Oberland, 
commands striking views of the Rhone Glacier and the neighbouring moun- 
tains, and from Realp onwards should be traversed in an open carriage 
or on foot. 

To (5V2M.)Hb«pcntW (48000, see pp. 104-106. Atthe upper 

end of the village the load diverges to the right from the St. Gott- 
Aard route, ascends a little, and skirts the level bank of the Realper 
Reu88 in the bleak Vrserenthal (p. 105). On each side rise steep 
grassy slopes, furrowed by numerous brooks, and overshadowed on 
the N. by the jagged pinnacles of the Spitzberge (10,053'). 2^4 M. 
Zumdorf (4965'), a group of huts with a chapel. Farther on we 
cross the Reuss and the Lochbach, which descends from the Tiefen- 
gletscher (see below), and soon reach (I3/4 M.) — 

91/2 M. Bealp (5059'; *H6t. des Alpes; 'Beim HoBpiz\ with the 
post-station), a poor hamlet at the W. end of the Urseren Valley. 

Over the Alpligen-Lilcke to the OSschenen^Alp, see p. 105^ Orsino Pa$$ 
to the St. OottTmrd^ see p. 107. — From Realp to ViUa in the Val Bedretto 
(p. 292) by the Gavanna Pass (8566'), between ih^i Pit Lucendro and BUhner- 
stock, 5 hrs., uninteresting. 

Beyond Realp the road begins to ascend in long windings, 

which the old road to the right, 50 paces beyond the second bridge, 

1/2 M. from Realp, avoids. (In descending from the Furka we 

quit the new road a few hundred paces beyond the 50th kilometre 

stone , and descend by a few steps to the left.) We soon obtain 

a fine retrospective view of the broad Urserenthal, with the zigzags 

of the Oberalpstrasse in the back-ground (p. 354); on the left are 

the Wyttenwasserthal with the glacier of that name, the Ywer- 

berhomer, and the Piz Lucendro. On the (3^2 ^0 Ebneten-Alp 

(6831') the windings terminate. About 1 M. farther is Tiefenbaoh 

(6790'; *Zum Tiefengletacher J D. 3 , pens. 5-6 fr.), where the 

diligence halts some time. 

By following the slope from this point and crossing the moraine, we 
reach (IV4 hr.; guide) the beautiful Tiefengletscher, imbedded between the 
Galenstock and the Oletichhom (10,850'), where beautiful crystals (more 
than I2V2 tons) were found in 1868 (p. 134). — Over the Ti^ensattel to the 
Rhone Qlacier (Orimsel^ Tri/thUtie)^ see p. 122. — Over the WinterlUcke 
(diiS") to the OOschenen-Alp (p. 104),6hr8.i descent to the Winter Clacter steep. 

The road crosses the Tiefentobel and ascends, running high up 
on the N. slope. The old bridle-path (not recommended) follows 
the Oarschenthal on the left, far below. On the right lies the 
Siedeln-GUtscher J the discharge of which forms a fine waterfall; 
above it rise the pinnacles of the Bielenstock (9669'). Before us 
rises the Furkahom (p. 112). The (3 M.) — 

171/2 M. Furka (7992'; *B6t. de la Furca, R., L., & A. 31/2-4, 
lunch 3, D. 5 fr.) is a saddle between the Muttenhorner on the 
left and the Furkahorner on the right, descending abruptly on 



112 Route 33, FURKA. 

both Bides. Magnificent view of the Bernese Alps with the im- 
posing Finsteraarhorn and to the left of it the Oberaarhom, 
Wallisei Fiescherhoiner , Siedelhorn, and Wannehorn, and to 
the right the Agasslzhorn and Schreckhdmer. From the road, 
about 3/4 M. farther on, we obtain a view of the Upper Yalais and 
its Alps (Mischabelhorner, Matterhorn, Weisshom, etc.). 

ExcDKSioNS. ^Furkahom (9935'^ 2V2 hrs.; guide 5 fr.), to the K. of the 
pass \ ascent over grass, detritus, and patches of snow ; fatiguing, but very- 
interesting. Admirable panorama of the Alps of Bern and Valais, the 
Oalenstock, St. Gotthard group, etc. Kot advisable to descend direct to 
the Rhone Glacier. — *Mattenhom (10,180' j 3 hrs. ; guide 10 fr.), S. of 
the Furka, a very fine point, not difficult. 

Galenstoek (11,805'; 5 hrs.^ guide 15 fr.), for adepts only, with an able 
guide, axe, and rope. From the Furka to the (3/4 hr.) Rhone Glacier (see 
below), skirt its left margin, climb a steep snowy slope to the right, 
follow a difficult ardte of rock, and lastly mount very steep n^v^ to the 
overhanging snowy summit (caution required). View exceedingly grand. 

From the Furka over the Lecki Paes to the St. Gotthard Bodice (10 brs., 
with guide), see p. 108; over the Trifilimmi to the Tri/thiltte^ see p. i22. 

To THE Gbimsel H08PIGK (p. 168), 5 hrs. (guide 10 fr. ; Alpenstock and 
nailed boots requisite). Walkers may descend from the Furka by a good 
path, diverging to the right from the road V2 M. from the inn, to the up- 
per part of the Rhone Glacier in */a hr., cross it above the ice-fall in 172 
hr., and go over the (S/4 hr.) Ntgeli's Orfttli (8470'; ^View) to the (2 hrs.) 
Hospice. This route is less to be recommended in the reverse direction. 

The road follows the slope to the right to the (I74 M.) Oalen- 
hutten (7900') and descends to the left in long zigzags, high 
above the huge "Hhone 01aeier(p.291), affording admirable views 
of its fantastic ice-masses. (At the second bend of the road is the 
small Hotel Belvedere. Path thence in Y4 hr. , over loose stones, 
keeping to the left, to a point commanding the upper part of the 
. glacier.) In the valley we cross the Muttbach (the discharge of 
the Oratschlucht'Gletschery The road is joined here on the left by 
the steep old bridle-path from the Furka. It then gradually 
descends the slope of the Langisgrat, and again describes several 
long bends, which the old bridle-path, to the right, cuts off. Cross- 
ing the infant RhonCy we now reach the (61/4 M.) — 

25 M. Rhone Glacier Hotel, in the 'Oletsch' (5750'; p. 291). 

From the Rhone Glacier to Brieg, see p. 276; over Uie Grinuel to 
Meiringen, see B. 52. 

34. From Lucerne to Altdorf by Stans and 
Engelberg. The SnrSnen Pass. 

Camp. Mapf p. 74. 

Steamboat from Lucerne to Stansstad 4 times dailv in 40 min., fare 
ifr. 40 or 80c. (seep. 116). — Diligence from Stansstad to (14 M.) Engel- 
berg twice daily in SVs hrs. ; fare 4fr. 60, coup^ 6fr. 40 c. (to Stans 6 times 
daily in 20 min. ; fare 60c.) ^ one-horse carriage 15, two-horse 25 £r. — Walk- 
ers may dismiss their vehicle at Grafenort (9 M. from Stansstad, a drive 
of l*/4 hr., one-horse carr. 10, two-horse 16 fr.), beyond which the road is 
so steep that travellers usually alight and walk. (One-horse carr. from 
Beekenried to Engelberg, the route for travellers from the St. Gotthard, 
15-18, two-horse 25-30 fr.j see p. 76.) — From Engelberg to Altdorf over 
the Sur^nen Pass, rather fatiguing (bridle-path, 8V2 hrs.*, guide, 14 fr.. 



STANS. 34. Route. 113 

annecessary in line weather; travellers from Altdorf need a guide to 
the top of the paes only, 8fr.). 

To StatMstad, see p. 117. The road leads round the S. base of 
the Biirgenstock (p. 117), through orchards and pastures. 

2 M. Staxu, or Stan% (1510'; pop. 2210; Krone, B. 1, B. 1 fr. ; 
Engel; Rosslt), the capital of Nidwalden, the E. half of Canton 
Unterwalden , lies in the midst of a vast orchard, on which, 
however, from 11th Nov. to 2nd Febr. the sun shines for one 
hour only in the morning, between the Hohe Brisen (7894') and 
the Stanserhom (see below). Adolning the handsome Pariah 
Church is the * Monument of Arnold von Winkelried (p. 19), a fine 
group In marble by ScUoth. A tablet by the Burial Chapel in the 
churchyard, on the N. side of the church, commemorates the mas- 
sacre perpetrated here in 1798 by the French, who were exasper- 
ated by the obstinate resistance they met with. The Town Hall 
contains portraits of all the mayors from the year 1521 ; below them 
is a collection of Unterwalden flags; also two French banners of 
1798 J a picture by the blind artist Wiirsch, who perished in 1798; 
another by Yolmar, representing Brother Klaus taking leave of his 
family (p. 118). In the Araenal is shown Arnold von Winkelried's coat 

of mail. Fine view from the Knieri, above the Capuchin Monastery. 
The Stanser Horn (6230^; *View) is ascended from Stans by the Blumatt- 
alp, or from Kerns (p. 117) by Wys»ei*len (3i/s-4 hrs. ; guide not indispens- 
able). — The B«oehaer Horn (5934'; SVz hrs.), ascended by Jfieder-Rieken- 
htieh (see below), is another interesting point, commanding a superb view 
of the Lake of Lucerne from Lucerne to Brunnen, the district of Schwya, 
and the Engelberg valley from Stans to Orafenort. 

The road to (12 M.) Engelberg traverses the vaUey of the 
Engelberger Aa , between the Stanser Horn on the right and the 
Bnochser Horn on the left. In the background rises the snow-clad 
Titlis. Near (2^4 M.) Thalwyl, or Dcdlenwyl, we cross the Aa. On 
a mound of detritus at the mouth of the Steinbojch, to the right, 
stands the church of Dallenwyl. 

A good bridle-path, diverging to the left, ascends to (4V2 H.) the 
finely •> situated health-resort of Nieder-Kiokenbach (SSSO*; ^'Kurhaits turn 
Engel , pens. 6-6 fr.). From this point the interesting ascent of the Stein* 
alp-Briaen C7891'; guide not indispensable to adepts) may be made in 3^/4 
hrs. via the Ahort^AlpKoA the Steinalp. Another attractive ascent is that 
of the '^Sehwalmis (7373'; QVs-S'A hrs. ; guide unnecessary), which leads by 
the Ahom-Alp, the B&rfalle (with a cross), and the BUhlalpe^ and thence 
up the E. arlte. An interesting pass (4V2 hrs. with guide) leads from 
Ifieder-Bickenbach by the BUhla^ and the gap (6924') between the Schwal* 
mis and the Seh3mberg, descending by the Bolgen^Alp to 8t, Jakob in the 
Isenthal (p. 80). 

The next places aTe(2M.) Wolfenschiessen (ilO^ ' \ Eintracht; 
Kreuz) and (^/^M.") Orafenort (ISSG*), consisting of a chapel, an 
*Inn (good wine), and a farm of the Abbey of Engelberg. About 
V2 ^* beyond Orafenort the road ascends through beautiful wood. 
To the right, far below, flows the brawling Aa. Leaving the wood, 
we pass (21/2 M.) the small auberge *Im Griinen Wald*, below 
which, in the valley to the right, a brook descending from the 
Triibsee (p. 121) falls into the Aa. After another slight ascent, 

Babdekbb, Switzerland. 12th Edition. 8 



114 ^ouU34. ENGELBERG. From Lucerne 

we ttirn to the left, and suddenly obtain a view of the *Engel- 
herger Thcd^ a green Alpine valley, 5 M. long and 1 M. broad, 
bounded on three sides by lofty, snow-clad mountains. The Titlis 
with its ice-mantle stands forth majestically, and to the left rise 
the rocky pinnacles of the Oreat And Little 8pannort(j^. 115); in the 
foreground is the Hahnenberg or Engelberg (8566'). Then (2 M.) — 

14 M. Engelberg. — ^Hotel Somkenbebo, finely situated, B., L., 
«fe A. 4-5, D. 4V2i S. 3, pens. 8V2-II fr.j •Hotel Titlis, E., L., & A. 
SVzj D- 4, pens. 7-10 fr.; •Enqei, pens. oV«-7fr. , R. separated only by 
board partitions; apartments at Dr. Oatitunfs^ adjacent, but witliout 
board; •Kurhaus & Psns. Mdlles, 6-9 f r. ; "^Faau Db. Mullbb's Pension, 
adjacent; •Hot. Engelbebg; "^Hot. des Alpes, unpretending, pens. 5 fr., 
B. extra; •Pens. Hess. Rooms at several otber houses; usual charges, 
B. IV2, B. 1, D. 2 fr.; whey also procurable. Beer at Wa9ser^t. — English 
Church in the grounds of the Hotel Titlis. — Guides: Karl and Eugen Hess ; 
Jos. Kuster. father and son ; Leodegar Feierabend ; Jos. and Placidus Hess ; 
Jos. and Mich. Amvhein; Jos. Imf anger. 

Engelberg (SSliQ, loftily and prettily situated, and sheltered 
from the N., is a favourite health-resort, particularly for nervous 
patients. At the upper end of the village rises the handsome Bene- 
dictine Abbey of the name, founded in 1121, named Mons Angelo- 

rum by Pope Calixtus XI., and rebuilt after a fire in 1729. 

The •Chubch contains modem pictures by Deschwanden^ Kaiser^ and 
WUrsch (p. 113). High altar-piece, an Assumption by J^egler^ 1734. In the 
chapter-house two transparent pictures by Kaiser, the Conception and the 
Nativity. The Libbabt (30,000 vols., 210 HSS.), which was pillaged by 
the French in 1798, contains a good relief of the Engelberg Valley. Per- 
mission to visit the monastery must be obtained from the abbot, to whom 
a visiting-card is sent with a request that he will fix the hour. — The 
School connected with the abbey is well attended. The Fabh Buildings, 
with the labourers' dwellings, are very extensive, and in the cheese-ma- 
gazine several thousand cheeses are frequently stored at one time. The 
revenues of the abbey, which formerly exercised sovereign rights over 
the surrounding district, were considerably reduced by the French in 1798. 

Opposite the Abbey, to the S., on the left bank of the Aa, are 
pleasant shady walks, which are reached in 10 minutes. 

Excursions. •Oberschwand (4300^; Inn), affording a delightful survey 
of the valley and the neighbouring mountains, is reached by a path 
ascending gradually by Untersehwtsnd in IVs hr., or by a steep path ascend- 
ing direct in 1 hr. — The Fliihmatt (1365')) 1 hr. to the N., commands a 
magnificent view of the Titlis. — Pleasant walk (way to the Surenen Pass, 
see p. 115), passing the church on the -left, to the C/4 hr.) •TAtechbachfall, 
which descends from the Hahnenberg. (To the left of this path is the End 
der Welt, a rocky basin at the head of the Horiristhal. It may be reached 
in V2 br. : 10 min. from the church, and beyond the bridge over the Horbis- 
bach, the path ascends to the left by the caf^ ^Zur neuen Heimat\) Beyond 
the Tatschbach we may cross the rUrrenbaeh, which also forms several 
falls, and visit the (1/2 hr.) dairy-farm of Harrenriiti (3897'; horse there and 
back 5 fr.), the property of the Abbey^ affording a survey of the Firn- 
alpeli and Grassen glaciers. — The Arnitobel, a gorge with a waterfall, 
2V4 M. to the W., a pleasant and shady walk; thence to the right to the 
(IV2 hr.) Amialp (5267'), with a good view of the Engelberger Rothstock 
and Uri-Rothstock. — Fiirrenalp (6073'; 2V2 hrs.); the path ascends to the 
left before reaching the Tatschbachfall , and then skirts the slope above 
(beautiful view of the Titlis). 

AscBNTS. The Rigithalttock (8614'; 41/2 hrs.; guide 9 fr.). the last part 
difficult, fine panorama; the Oeissberg (8901' j 5 hrs.; guide 10 fr.), rather 



wr 



SURENEK-FASS. 34. Soule. 115 | i 



leTiddarfaM (7713' i 4 

■°'" °-7brs.i iiude 12 fj 

. - Tbc Hunihorn ,_ . ,_._ _ 

io e-7 hrg (enide IS fr.) b; cToislng the ilopf or tbe Scliatibaiid. In front 
of tbE Hninuck. — Sncilbsrc-KothitHk (9252'; A bm.i guide 9 fr.). inlcies- 

th°^(3?i b"s.) airtVr oatlfanrlih^bil ^Deaifnot'f.r fr^m the ffH(.«lJ^ 
oletiehir; tbence b«low the XaNM'^'' (P- 80) to tbe top in I'l^ hr. mure. 
•ITri-BotlutHk OeaOO; SVi tan.; (uide 17, witb deeceni Io Iseottitl 
22 fr.), very intereatlDg, From tbe club but above tbe Hankeoalp (set 
above) to tbe(IV.br.)B»p {8ST8') on the S. of lie Engelberg-Rofhstock; 

Sdtloiittoci &X&)i theu a ntber ateep '^Seecent Io (be IMmlUalpJirB; 

up the KleinlhalJUit to the fi'/i bra.) top (comp. p. 80).' n , an ai j- 

The Ctosu-BpuBOTt (10,616') i> ueendcd from (be ^>aBner( Clvb-hul ' 

(6500'), 4 liM. from Engelberg, by tbe SMomirf-mcke (md the Olallet- I 

Jim, In 4YibrB, 1 interesling, Ihoufih toilsome ((aids S6 fr.)- — Klein- ,1 

Bpknnort (10,387 i 6-7 hrs.; guide SSfc); rrom <be Spumort Hnl by tbe ■ 
SpartnorljiKh (see below); difHoult elitnhing. 

Tbe °TitUj (10,63I'i T-S hn.; guide 12 fr.) ig most Interesting, tbnugb ) 

trying. It !■ adviiable to go on the previous evening to the OStre Trabsii- - 

Alp (p. 121; I'lt bra.-, hoTM 10^.), in order not to b&ve the steen | 

PfafftarKtnd (p. 121) to uc«id ml ituiiu. From this point it ii uauBl '' 

Id sUrt at 2 a.m., in order tb«l on the reluTn-route Itie snow may be ■ 

traversed before tbe beat of tbe da;. From the (op of (he Pfaffenwand ; \ 

(he path ucendB over inrf ind dAirig (o Iha (2hrs.) .Stand (E033'), where I 

ft abort real ii talten; i( then mounts a steep slaty incline in liguga, ' 

over rock and detritui, to the (•/< br.) RoUitfg (9030^, where the glacier ■ > . 

if ceached. We ascend the glacier, at first gradually, then more rapidly I ' ' 

(Blep-cuttlng sometime! necessary), and if tbe snnw is in good conditinn ; fl 

vre reach tbe (l'/s-3 brs.) summit, called tbe yollm, without material dif- ' | 

ficoKy. The vieo, highly picturesque and Imposing, embraces tbe entire ■ 'I 

Alpine cbain from Savoy t« tlie Tyrol, N. SwiUerland, and S. Germanr. Tbe J Ii 
ascent of the Tillis, though requiring perseverance, is perhaps tbe least diffi. 
cult of glacier-excursions. Descent to the Jochpasa (EngsUenalp). see p. 121. 

Passes. From Engelberg over the Jachpaii to Mciringm (guide, un- 

Ibe Mrlidlliol (guide to Sarnen 13 tr.}. see p. 118; over (he Solhgraili tu 
the Jitnaal (guide 17 fr.) see p. 80. 

FnoB KHOttaaEO To EnBivtLD (p. 98) over tbe Bohlosaberg-tiicke 
(8635'^ 10 brs.i guide 23 fr.), a flne route, but faliBuing. By spending a 
night in a,e Spannorl Bui (seeabcive; 2 brs. below the pass) mountaineers 
ml} combine the ascent of the Otiiis- aparmor! (see above) with Ihis 
pass. — To Erstfeld across the Spanner^oeh (%1Q'. 10-11 brs.; guide 25 
fr.), between the Gross and tbe Eleiu-Spanuort, toilsome. 

To Wasbb over tbe Oruaen Faaa iBdrtifnAe, S91T1, 10 bra., difllcult 
(guide to Meien 25 (r.).— To ths Stkikalp over the Wendanjoeh (3694'), 
10-11 brs., faHguiuE, but inleiesting (guide ^ fr.). 

The lonte to the SuieoeD P&99 leads past the Tatechbschfall to ^ 

[lV4hr.)H«n-(nri(Ii(p. HI), folbivs the right bank of the Aa to H 

(25 mill.) the froatier of Cwton XJri by the NUdtt-SuTtTven Alp || 

(^4134'), and ascends Io the CVa he.) S'3/feH (■*652'), Afterasteep m 

asfient to the (50 mln.) 5liereii/oJi (best viewed from below), we f jk 

cross (5 min.) the biook, and in 40 min. more lecioss it to the j )1 

Blaekeaolf (5833'), vith its chapel. The path then ascends giad- ' J 

ually ovet snow, vhich melta in July, to the (I'/ibr.) pass of the l| {| 

Sarenen-Eok ilh&l^, on the S. side of the Blackautack (95370- j 11 

The Titlis becomes grander as we ascend, and we observe a ■ " 



116 BouU35. BRtJNIG ROUTE. 

long range of peaks and glaciers, particularly the Klein- and Gross- 
Spannort and the Schlossberg, extending as far as the Sur^nen. On 
the other side we survey the mountains enclosing the Schachenthal, 
on the opposite side of the Reuss, the Wlndgalle being most con- 
spicuous. On the E. side of the Surenen the snow , which never 
entirely melts, is crossed in 74^^- ^^ ^^^ height of summer. Then a 
steep descent to the(l hr.) Waldnaeht-Alp (4754'), which is visible 
from the height in the long valley below. At a stone bridge (1/4 hr.) 
the road divides. The very steep path in a straight direction leads 
to (I3/4 hr.) Altdorf (p. 97); that to the right, crossing the 
bridge, to (2 hrs.) Eratfeld (p. 98). By the latter we reach the 
(5 min.) Boekitobel , with the picturesque falls of the Waldnacht- 
bach (beyond which the guide may be dismissed), descend through 
wood into the valley, traverse the pastures to the village of Erstfeldj 
and cross the Reuss to the station on the St. Gotthard line (p. 98). 

35. From Lucerne over the Briinig to Brienz 

(and Meiringen). 

Comp. Maps, pp. 74, 140, 

36^2 M. Steamboat from Lucerne to (11 M.) Alpnach-Oestad 4 times 
daily in 1-1 V4 lir- j Diliqewce from Alpnach-Gestad to (SSVs M.) Brieng 
3 times daily in 6 hrs. ; to (24 H.) Afeiringen once daily in 6 hrs. (chang- 
ing carriages at Lungem). From Brienz by steamboat, corresponding 
with the diligence, to Bdnigen ( Interlaken) , so that Interlakcn may be 
reached from Zurich in one day. Tickets to Interlaken are obtained at 
the post-office (branch • office next door to the Engl. Hof) at Lucerne 
(where the coup^ may be secured) , or on board the steamers : from 
Lucerne to Brienz 10 fr. 90 c. , coup^ 12 fr. 90 c. 5 to Interlaken 13 fr. 85, 
coup^ 16 fr. 40 c. ; from Alpnach-Gestad to Brienz 8Va fr- , coup6 lOVzfr. ; 
to Meiringen 8 fr., coup^ 9 fr. 90 c. — From Alpnach-Gestad to Viftnau 
(for the Bigi) a through-ticket, via Lucerne, costs 1 fr. less than hooking 
to Lucerne and thence to Vitznau. — Those who have not secured the 
coup^, should try to obtain seats in an open supplementary carriage (^Bei- 
wagen'), as the *int4rieur' of the diligence affords little view. 

Carbiages. With two horses, from Lucerne to Brienz or Meiringen 
45-50, to Interlaken 60-70 fr. — From Alpnach-Oestad to Lungern one-horse 
15, two-horse 25 fr.; to Brienz or Meiringen 25 or 40 fr.-, the latter, for 4-5 
persons, pleasanter and not dearer than the diligence. It is advisable 
always to start an hour or two in advance of tlie diligence, so as to avoid 
the dust raised by the latter. 

The Road feom LncEKNE to Alpnach (12 M.) runs inland. At first 
it follows the rapid Kriensbach, and then leads by Hono (i&Id^), with its 
prettily situated church , to Winktl (^Stern , plain) , on a bay of the Lake 
of Lucerne (p. 117), and along the bank of the lake to Hergiswyl (p. 117). 
It next skirts the Lopper , close by the lake, and at the AcherhrUcke 
(p. 117) reaches the Lake of Alpnach, on the K.W. bank of which it leads 
to Alpnach-Oestad (117). 

Railway from Lucerne across the Briinig to Brienz under con- 
struction. 

Beyond the central point of the cruciform lake (p. 74), the steamer 

passes the country-seat of Trihachen, the prettily situated Pension 

Stutz, the St. Niklauscapelle^ and the country-house of Kdsten- 

haum or Kastanienbaum , and enters the bay of Stansstad. To 

e left rises the Biirgenstock, with its precipitous N. slopes 



ALPNACH. 35. Route. 117 

(p. 117J. To the right the piomontaiy o! Spiiitnegg extejiis dr iBto 
the lake, tocming a bay which aitends to the K. to Wmktl (p. 116). 
Tbe steamer iteeu to the S.W. to Hergiivyl CHdt.-Petu. Botili, 
modeiate, pens, 4-7 fi.), at the loot of PilUaa (p. 88), and then 
to the E. to StaiiHtad (1444' ; BStel Winktlrled ; Fnltnhof; EonU : 
Sehtuuei), the 'harbour of Stans'. The square pinnacled SchnilC' 
Thurm was erected by the Swiss in 1308 to vindicate their re- 
cently acquired independence. 

From Staca^tad a good road^ divergtng lo IL« left froDD Uke Slaaa road 
(p. 113j, leada, chiefly tbrougb pUwanl wood, lo (1 M.; one-Lorse carr. 
S, two-horse U fr.> the "Hitel Bilrjonitock (SSSS'i R. from 4, B. I'/j, D. 
4, pens. 8Vrl8V>fr.i residBnt phyiician), a tayqnrite bsallh-rwOrl, with 
eitensive and ihady gronnda. The holel sod several pointt neat it com- 
maBd baaailtul views. Thns to ('/a hr.) Sonesrn, a good path. Asleep 

the HamnitUchiiiimd (3T31'), the snmmU of the Bilrgenstock, which descends 
abrnptlT In (he Lake of Lueerae : slrtking view of the greater part of lbs 
lake, of the lakes of Bamen, Sempach, Baldegg. Hallwyl, and ^ag, of the 
Bigi, Pilatiu, Hjtkeo. -Weleaemtein, and of the Alps of Olanti and Unler- 

The Lopper, the E. spur of Pilatus (see p. 116), extends far 
into the lake. The brook opposite, which falls into the lake at Stans- 
Btad, has farther narrowed the channel between the Lake of Lucerne 
and the Lkke of Alpnooli with its alluvial deposits, and the strait 
1b now crossed by an embankment and a bridge (Acherbrucke). 
which is opened for the passage of steamers. Within the Bay of 
Alpnach rises Che Eotberg (2214' ,* Sot, Son, akin to Bocht, Tock), 
separated from the Platt&trg by the Boalnch, a narrow ravine, in 
which the Mehlbaeh forms several falls. Portland Cement factor}'. 
On the lake la situated ■Pens. BldttUr (5 fr.), with a anlphur- 
spring and pleasant grounds. On the slope of the Rozberg, '/l ^'■ 
to the E., is the 'Penj. Bos^bng , prettily sitnated , and 10 min. 
beyond it the Pens. Burji Botberg. 

Walk raou aT*K«BT»D lo SiceaaLK. The path skirts the lake tor a 
aboct war, enters the Koiloch, and at Alhcia ('tna), 2 U. from Staus- 
atad, where there is a chapel is memory of Winkelried [pp. 19. liS), Joini 
the Slam and Samen Road (do diligence). This road leads past tbe 1^~. 
baae of the ;8M«(trAorn (p. 110), and by AoAren to(2 M.) SI. /i>Io», avillage 
with an old church, then across the MMbacA, Md through the Siriaold 
to (2V) M.) Kims CKrone ; Hirsch ; Kilseli), a plessant village wilh a prelly 
chorch, and (2 M.) Sarnm. ~ Or we may go direct from Kerns lo (3 M.) 

cJ^S«°heentr'l^«'of'theM'e]chl"al(s^e'p°lI8)"" ""* "'""'' 

Alpmuili-OMtftd (1443'; *mttl J'ilalue or Poi(, neat the lake, 
B. 2'/j, B. 1'/, fr.; •Bon«; S(«rn) is the harbour for (IVaM.)Alp- 
lUMh (1529'j Krone,' Sonne), The church of Alpnach with its slen- 
der eptre was erected with the proceeds of the sale of timber from 
the forests of Pllatas, which were rendered accessible by a wooden 
elide, 8 M. long, and were cut down in 1811-19. — Ascent of Pita- 
tm and Pltatus Rnilwiay. see p. 8S, 

The road to (3 M.) Samen follows the left bank of tlie -la, which 
descends from the Lake of Sarnen. Near Alpnach and Kdgistcyl 
(Post), with its large parquet'factory. the Kteint and the Oro»e 



118 Route 35, MELCHTHAL. From Lucerne 

Schlierenhaek, and near Sarnen the Aa, are crossed by covered 
wooden bridges. To the left rise the Stanserhom (p. 113) and the 
chain of the Arvigrat (6917Q, and on the right the slopes df Pilatus. 

41/2 M. (from Alpnach-Gestod) Samen (1630'; pop. 4039; 
*Obwcddner Hof ; Samer Hofi *AdLer ; Pott; Monger, moderate; 
Hindi, well spoken of ; Peru. Landenberg, see below ; Pens. Nieder- 
herger on the *Boll*, Vi^'* ^ the£.), the capital of Obwalden, the W. 
part of Canton Unterwalden, with its .nunnery and Capuchin mona- 
stery, lies on the Samer Aa. The Raihhaua contains portraits of all 
the magistrates of Obwalden from the year 1381 to 1824, and one of 
St. Nikolans von der Fliie (see below). The church, on a hill, the 
cantonal hospital, and the arsenal on the Landenberg (1667' ; fine 
view ; pension, see above), are conspicuous buildings. 

At the head of the Schlieren- Thai, SVa hrs. W. of Sarnen, lies the 
sequestered '^Schwendi-Kaltbad (4737'), with a chalybeate spring, and whey- 
cure. The road ascends the W. slope of the Schwendiberg to (1 hr.) Stal- 
den (2614'^ refreshments at the cure's), whence a bridle-path crosses the 
meadows of Schwdndi and continues, often through wood, to the (21/2 hrs.) 
Kaltbad. Thence to the top of the Feuersiein (6697') 2V2 hrs. 5 to the 
Schimberger Body 2 hrs., see p. 124. 

To the S.E. of Samen opens the Kalehtlial, a romantic valley, 12 M. in 
length, studded with numerous chalets. At the upper end is the Melehsee 
(see below), whose waters are lost in a cleft of the rock , and 3 M. below 
reappear as the Melchaa. At the entrance of the valley is St. Niklauun 
(27o20) or 8t. Klaus, the first Christian church erected in this district. The 
ancient tower adjoining it is locally known as Beidenthurm (heathens^ 
tower). Nearly opposite, 3 M. from Samen, is the Ran/t ('brow of the 
mountain^), formerly a barren wilderness, with the hermitage of St. Niko- 
LAUs voN DEK Fl^b, who Is Said to have lived here for twenty years 
without other food than the sacramental elements, of which he partook 
monthly. After their victory over Charles the Bold of Burgundy in 
14^, the confederates assembled at Stans disagreed about the division 
of the spoil, but through the intervention of the venerable hermit the dis- 
pute was soon amicably settled. After his death (1487) he was canonised. 
His memory is still revered by the people, and there is scarcely a hut in 
the Forest Cantons that does not possess a portrait of Brother Klaus. 

A road (diligence to Melchthal daily in 2 hrs.) leads by St. Mklausen 
to the (7 H.) village of Melchthal (2933' \ good quarters at the curb's) and 
the (2 M.) Balmmatt (3150*), at the foot of the precipitous Ramisjluh; bridle^ 
path thence to the Melchsee, 2V2hr8. (see below). From Melchthal a roughish 
path crosses the Storegg (StICX) to Engelberg (p. 114) in 4Vs hrs. ; another, 
more interesting, leads thither in 5-6 hrs. over the Juchli (712(y). The 
NUnalphorn (Juchlistock, 7830' ; fine view of the litlis and the Bernese 
Alps) may be ascended in 1 hr. from the Juchli. View still finer from 
the Hutstoek (8790'), reached by good climbers from the Juchli in 2 hrs. 
(comp. p. 116). — From the Melchsee (6427'-, *H6t. Frutt, unpretending, 
pens. 8 fr.) an easy pats crosses the Tannenalp (6503') la l*/4 hr. to the 
Engstlen-Alp (S. 120); another, rather rough, leads over the Laubergrat 
(7874') to (4V2 hrs.) Meirmgen (p. 162). — The Hohenstollen, etc., see p. 163. 

The road crosses the Melchaa, which has been conducted 
into the Samer See (15520, ^ ^^^^ ^ ^* ^^^S' ^^^ 1-1 V4M. broad, 
well stocked with flsh. The Yalley of Sarnen is pleasing, though 
without pretension to Alpine grandeur. 

At (I3/4 M.) Saohseln (1598'; *Kreu%i Engel, JRostli; Lowe'), 
a thriving village on the E. bank of the lake, is a large church, 
erected in 1663, containing the bones of St. Nikolaus and other relics. 



toBrienz. BRUNIG PASS. 35. RouU. 119 

The vUlageof r3V2M.)C^i«wil(1800'; Krone; Rudenzjwas partly 
destioyed in 1629 by inundations of the Lauibach. A lake was 
thus formed, and 130 years later was drained into the Lake of 
Sarnen. Fine view from the churchyard. On the slope to the left 
are the relics of a chateau of the Rudent family. 

The Brienzer Rothhom (p. 164) may be ascended from Giswil in 6 hrs. \ 
path for tbe first 3 hrs. good, afterwards steep and disagreeable. 

We now ascend the Kaistrstuhl (2306'), and at (2^4 M.) BurgUn 
(2306') reach the Lake of Lnngem (2162'). To the S. the three 
peaks of the Wetterhom become visible. We next reach (3 M.) — 

15 M. Lungem (2293'; Lowe, D. 31/2-^ fr.; H6t. Brunig; Bar: 
all belonging to the same landlord), a large village situated in a 
basin at the foot of the Brunig, ^/z M. from the S. end of the lake, 
half of which was drained into the Sarner See in 1836. — The Dun- 
delshach forms a picturesque fall on the hill-side to the W. 

The road (short-cut to the left) ascends In long windings through 
wood , enters Canton Bern , and reaches (3^2 ^0 the Brftnig 
Pass (3396'), beyond which are the H6t. Brunigkulm and the 
*H6t. du Brunig (cheap wood-carving sold by Casp. Brog). 

Fine prospect from the W»ler Alp (4866'), iVs hr. N.W. of the Brunig; 
more extensive from the Wylerhom (6580*), 3 hrs. from the pass. 

The road to (5^2 M.) Meiringen (p. 162) diverges to the left, 
3/4 M. beyond the pass, and leads through the hamlet of Briinigen. 
(A short-cut descends to the left near the Brunig Inn.) The 
pleasant road to Brienz (7 M.) winds down the hill , occasionally 
under overhanging rocks. Opposite us tower the Engelhorner 
(p. 161). To the left we overlook the valley of Meiringen as far as 
the Kirchet (p. 166); at the foot of the mountains to the S. is th& 
lower fall of the Reichenbach (p. 162) ; opposite is the fall of the 
Oltschibach (p. 163); below us flows the Aare, and to the right 
is part of the Lake of Brienz. The road (short-cuts) descends by 
Brienzwyler (Bar), a village among pastures and orchards, to the 
Bridge of Brienzwyler over the Aare (1890' ; H6t. Balmhof), where 
it joins the Meiringen and Brienz road. From this point to (372^0 — 

251/2 M. Brienz, see p. 163. 

36. From Meiringen to Engelberg. Joch Pass. 

Comp. Maps-, pp. 96, 114. 

93/4 hrs. : Getithalalp 2 (viS, Im-Hof 3), Engstlen-Alp 3, Joch i>/2, Triib- 
see V27 Engelberg IV2 hrs. — Horse from Im-Hof to Engelberg 15, guide 
8 fr. — If the traveller can devote two days to this interesting journey 
(still more attractive in the reverse direction), he should sleep on the 
Engstlen-Alp, where an afternoon may be pleasantly spent. 

Meiringen , see p. 162. — The shortest route to the Genthal- 
alp and the £ngstlen Alp leads across the Dorfbach , passes the 
houses of Stein and Sand, and ascends the steep slopes of the Has- 
liberg, on the right bank of the Aare. Fine views of the Haslithal 
and Urbachthal and of the Wetterhorner , etc. The path (recently 
much improved and now quite safe even for those subject to diz- 



120 Route 36. ENGSTLEN-ALP. 

ziuess) leads by the Hundichiipfi to the chalets of (2 hrs.) Lauenen 

(3802'), where the Cheuthftlalp begins. 

The Bridle-Path (1 hr. longer) leads by (1^4 hr.) Im-Hof (p. 166). Tlience 
we either follow the Suaten route (p. 121) to the (*/4 hr.) foundry in the 
Milhlethal; then, beyond the (*/4 hr.) bridge over the GenthaJwtuter^ ascend 
to the left through wood to the (1 hr.) Oenthalalp (see above). Or we may 
diverge to the left from the Susten route at Wjfler^ 20 min. from Im-Hof, 
cross the Oadmenbach, turn to the left again after 6 min., and ascend rapidly 
through pastures and wood to the (1 hr.) chalets of Lauenen (see above). 

The path soon approaches the Oenthalbachj and follows Its right 
bank. On the (1/4 hr.) Leimboden (3920') our path is joined on the 
right by that from Milhlethal above mentioned (small auberge on the 
left bank). We now gradually ascend the monotonous Genthal. Be- 
hind us rise the Wetterhorner and the Hangend-Gletscherhorn at the 
end of the Urbachthal (p. 166). In 20 min. we pass the Oenthalhiitten 
(^3993'), on the left bank of the brook, and after a slight ascent 
reach (1 hr.) the Schwar&waldhuUen (4596'; auberge). 

The valley now becomes more interesting. From the precipices 
of the Oadmer Fliiht (9750') on the right, whioh become grander 
as we proceed, falls a series of cascades, varying in volume ac- 
cording to the state of the melting snow, and we at last come 
to eight of these close together (AchtdsdsabaeheJ. The Engstlen- 
bachj as the brook is named above this point, also forms several 
considerable falls. The path crosses the stream and ascends, often 
steeply, through beautiful wood, to the (172^^0 *Sngstlen-Alp 
(6033'; *Jnn, R.,L, &A. 31/4, D.4, pens.6fr.), a beautiful pasture, 
with fine old pines and 'Alpine cedars'. (Excellent water, tem- 
perature 40-42° Fahr.) *View, totheS.W., of the majestic Wetter- 
horn; to the left the Schreckhorner; to the right the Bliimlisalp; to 
to the E. the Wendenstocke and the Titlis. — The Wunderhrunnen 
('miraculous spring'), near the inn, is an intermittent spring which 
only flows in wet weather and in spring during the melting of the 
snow, usually about noon. 

Excursions. Walk to Melciisee-Frctt (2 hrs.; guide unnecessary). 
From the inn we walk to the l^.W. to the waterfall and ascend rapidly 
on the right side, soon obtaining a splendid view of the Bernese Alps 
(among which the Finsteraarhorn comes in view to the left of the 
Schreckhorner). At the top we round the grassy Spicherjluh (6690*), pass 
a small lake, and reach the (1 hr.) TatMeualfi^ (650S'), a large Alp with 
numerous chalets. We next traverse beautiful level pastures, pass two 
other small lakes , and reach the (1 hr.) Hdfel Meleheee- Fruit (6472') ; see 

f. 118. — Ascent of the Ertegg (likff) from the Tannenalp, or from Frutt 
hr., easy and repaying. The Mohentiollen (815(y), a magnificent point, 
but somewhat fatiguing, takes 2 hrs. from Frutt (comp. p. 163). 

Ascents. Schafberg (OwartUr; 7950*; 2 hrs.) not difllcult; Qrautlock 
(8737' ; 21/2-3 hrs. 5 with guide), fatiguing ; WildgeUsUrg (8904' ; 3 hrs. ; with 
guide), an admirable point, but rather laborious (comp. p. 115). — Wenden- 
stoch (9990'; 4 hrs. ; with guide), difficult, for experts only ; imposing view. 
The ascent of the *TitLis (p. 115) is sbiorter from the Engstlen^Alp than 
from E^gelbei^ (p. 114). From the (I'/s hr.) Jochpass we ascend to the 
right over rocks, debris, and snow, and reach the (3V2-4 hrs.) top after a 
steep and fatiguing climb. Guide from the inn 10 fr. (charged in the bill) 
i^nd gratuity (with descent to Engelberg 20 fr.). The start should be made 
^t later than 2 a.m., with lanterns. 



JOCH PASS. 36. BouU. 121 

OvKK THE Satt£LI TO Gapmen, 3V2-4 hrs. (guide 6 fr.), a fine route. 
At the W. end of the Engstlensee (see below) we cross the Engstlenbach 
to the Alp ScharmadlagtTy and ascend a narrow path on the slope of the 
Oadmer Fluh to the (2 hrs.) B&tteli (splendid view of the Gadmenthal, 
Trift Glacier, and Bernese Alps). Then a long and steep descent to (iVz-S 
hrs.) Gadmen (p. 122). A still finer view is obtained from the ^Achteltass- 
grai ('GratW)^ yz'hx. beyond the Satteli and a few hundred feet lower. 

For 1/2 ^'- *^6 bridle-path to (3^2 hrs.) Engelberg skirts the 
Engstlen-See (6076'), a lake V/^ M. long, abounding In trout, 
and then ascends, in view of the Wendenstocke , with the Pfafftn 
and Joch Olacien, to the (1 hr.) Joeh Fan (7244'; view limited). 
A tolerable path now descends over rock and detritus to the 
(V2 l^^O Obere Truhaee^Alp (♦Zum Alpenclub, R. 2 fr.), on the S.E. 
side of the turbid Triibsee (5794'). On the right is the snowy Titlis, 
which is usually ascended from this point {j>. 115). — The Bitzi- 
stock (6230') easily ascended from the inn in Y2 ^'m affords a fine 
Tiew of the Titlis, Spannorter, Schlossberg, and Engelberger Thai. 

The path leads to the N.E. through the flat and marshy valley 
(with the Trubsee on the left) , and crosses the brook which de- 
scends from the glaciers of the Titlis. It descends the steep Pfafftn- 
voand In zigzags, leads over the OefsehniAlp (4125') towards a clump 
of pines, enters a wood, crosses the Engelberger Aa at the foot of the 
hill, and reached (11/2 hr.) Engelberg (p. 114). 

37. From Meiringen to Wasen. Susten Pass. 

Comp. ifaps^ pp. 214f 104. 

11 hrs.: Im-Hof 1V4) Gadmen 3, Am Stein 2V4, Susten-Scheidegg iVi, 
Heien 2»/4, Wasen 1 hr. Horse 35 (or, for two days, 40), guide 21 fr. (un- 
necessary). 

From Meiringen to Im-Hof (2054'), IV4 hr., see p. 166. The 
Susten Road, constructed by Bern and Uri In 1811, and still 
tolerably well kept on the Bernese side (practicable for driving as 
far as the Stein Inn), diverges here to the £. from the Grimsel route. 
It traverses pleasant meadows and wooded slopes, and skirts the 
winding Oadmenhach. At one time the Wetterhorn, Wellhorn, and 
Engelhorner, at another the Schwarzhom group form the back- 
ground towards the W. 

The lower valley is called the Miihlethalj above which is the A'es- 
senthal. Beyond (20 min.) Wyler the path to the EngstUn-Alp 
(p. 120) diverges to the left. The road crosses (10 min.) the Gadmen- 
bach, and at an (1/4 hr.) old iron-foundry the Oenthalhach, on the 
left bank of which a second path (see p. 120) to the Engstlen-Alp 
diverges. At (8/4 hr.) MiihUataldm (3117') the narrow Triftthal 
opens towards the S.E., with the Trift Olaeier in the background. 

Triftthal (comp. Hap, p. 104; &>/< hrs. to the clnVhnt; guide neces- 
sary -y Andr. v. Weii$en/lith of Miihlestalden \ Joh. Moor and Joh. Lucks of 
Gadmen). The path ascends on the left bank of the Tfiftbach and on the 
left side of the ice-fall to the (3 hrs.) simple Windegg-HHtte (6237'). We now 
cross the glacier, here tolerably level, and mount the steep rocks of the 
Thaltistocl to the (IV2 hr.) Club Hut {TrifthHUe^ 8250'), aflfording a good 



122 Route 37, SUSTENPASS. 

survey of the upper basin of the Trift Glacier. From the elub-hnt over 
the Trift Limmi (10,170') and the Rhone Glacier to the Furka (p. Ill) or 
to the Orimsel Hospice (p. 168), 9 hrs., fatiguing. — The '^Dammastock 
(11,909'^ splendid view) is ascended without very serious difflcalty from 
the club-hut in 4-5 hrs. (descent by the Rhone Glacier and Nagelisgratli 
to the Grimsel, 7 hrs.)- ■— The Sehneettoek (11,667'), ThieralpUstock (ll^lC), 
and Diechterhom (ll,12(y) may also be ascended from the club-hut without 
difficulty. — Passes to the 09schenen-Alp over the Winterberg Range (Maas- 
plankjoch^ Damma Past^ Winterjoch) difficult (comp. p. 105). — Over the 
Tiefensatlel (about 10,8200 and the Tie/en Glacier (p. Ill) to the Furka, 
interesting, and in certain states of the enow not difficult. — Interesting 
passes also cross the Fortwaae: Bsttel (8392') to GuUamun (a steep ascent 
uf 3 hrs. from the Windegg; descent by the Steinhatit-Alp to Guttannen 
in 2 hrs.), and the Steinlinmii (8970') to the Stein-Alp. The latter route 
leads from the chalet of Graggi-Hiitte^ opposite the Windegg on the right 
side of the glacier , in 3 hrs. to the col, between the GiglMock and Vorder- 
Thierberg^ and descends over the Steinlimmi Glacier and round the slopea 
of the Thaleggli to the (2 hrs.) Stein Inn (see below). By combining the 
two last-named passes, a good walker may reach the Stein Inn from Gut- 
tannen in a single day (11-12 hrs.). 

The road crosses the Gadmenbach and ascends by SehafteUn to 
(1 hr.) Vnttrfuren (3348Q, wheie the beautiful QadmefUhdL begins, 
and(20miii.)the village of Ghidmen(3944'; Inny moderate), eonsist- 
ing of the hamlets of An der Egg^ Buhl, and Obermatt. (PaUi over the 
Sdtteli to the EngaUen-Alpy see p. 121.) The gieen valley with its 
fine old maple-trees contrasts strikingly with the barren and perpen- 
dicular Oadmer Fluh (see p. 120). To the E., on the slope of the 
VraUtocke (9544^), lies the Wenden'Oletscher. 

After a level stretch, the road ascends through wood in numer- 
ous windings to the chalets of Feldmooa (4934'), and then traverses 
a wild rocky region (*H611e') to the (21/2 hrs.) Stein Inn (61220, 
at the foot of the huge *8tein Glacier. 

OvEB THE SusTENLiHMi TO THE Goschensn-Alp, 9 hrs., laborious. We 
ascend the slopes of the ITialeggli (on the W. side of the Stein Glacier), 
cross the Steinlimmi Glacier to the Thieri>ergU, and traverse the n6v6 of 
the Steingletscher to the Suatenlimmi (10,1800, lying to the S.W. of the 
Gletscherhorn (11,457*). Descent over the Susten Glacier to the Kehlen-Alp 
(7562') and across the Kehle Glacier to the Hiniere RGthe and Gdschentn- 
Alp (p. 105). — A similar pass is the Thicrberglinuni (about 10,500'): 
we cross the Steingletscher to the Joch between the Steinberg and the 
Hinter-Thierberg^ and descend the Kehle Glacier to the Goschenen-Alp. — 
Ascent of the Brunnenttoek (11,520*), the highest of the SvttenkCrner, 
toilsome, but interesting (guide 30 fr.). 

Over the Steinlimmi to the Trift-OleUcher (5 hrs. to the Graggi Hut), see 
above. Another route crosses the snowy pass of Zwischen-Thierbergen 
(about 9780'), between the Vorder- and the Binter-Thierberg , to the (^S 
hrs.) Tri/thiiUe (p. 121). — To Engelberg over the Wendenjoeh^ see p. 115. 

The bridle-path now ascends above the moraine, making a 
long circuit to the right (which a footpath cuts off), and overlooking 
the grand Stein Qlacier, environed by the Sustenhorner, Susten- 
limmi, Gwachtenhom, Vorder- and Hinter-Thierberg, and Gigli- 
stock, to the (1^4 hr.) Suiten-Soheidegg (74200, which affords an 
admirable survey of the imposing mountains bounding the Meien- 
thal on the N. and culminating in the Spannorter (p. 116). 

The path, now uninteresting, winds down to the Meienlach, 
\ brook issuing from the Kalchthal, a wild gorge on the right, into 



ENTLEBUCH. 38, Boute, 123 

which avalanches frequently fall from the Stueklistoek (10,856') 
and the Si^tenhomer (see p. 122). Below us lie the Susten-Alp 
(5767'), on the right, and the (1 hr.) Guferplatten-Alp (5725') on 
the left. The path, now level, traverses the stony valley of theMelen- 
Reuss, which consists here of several branches, and crosses the brook 
twice. It next crosses the deep ravine of the (8/4 hr.) Ooresmettlen- 
hack (5137'), and passes the Goresmettlen-Alp. Several brooks issue 
from the Ruttiflrn on the right. 

The first group of houses (20 min.) is Fdmigen (4787' ; Inn, 
poor) ; then (40 min.) Meien (4330' ; Inn above the chapel), con- 
sisting of several hamlets (Dorfli, Huaen, &c.). Above Wasen we 
pass the Meienschanz (3600'), an intrenchment erected in 1712 
during the Religious War (p. 56), and destroyed by the French 
in 1799. Descending rapidly for a short distance, and crossing the 
St. Gotthard Railway, we at length reach (1 hr.) Wasen (p. 100). 



38. From Lucerne to Bern. Entlebuch. Emmenthal. 

59 M. Railway (Jura-Bern- Lucerne), 3-4 hrs. CUf'-, Tfr. 50, 5fr. 30 c.). 

Lucerne, see p. 70. — Near the Reuss bridge the train diverges 
to the left from the Ziirich line (p. 69), and passes through a 
tunnel under the Zimmeregg, 1248 yds. long, into the broad dale of 
the KUine Emme. 3 M. Littau, at the base of the wooded Sonnenberg 
(p. 69); 71/2 M. Matters (1693'; Kreuz), with a handsome church. 

Road hence to (21/2 M.) Schwarzenberg (2760' ; '^Weisses Ki*eu$; PJister- 
haus; Pens. Fuche; Kurhavs Matt, primitive), on the hill to the S.., a 
pleasant sommer resort. About 2 M. above it is the rustic Kurhau* Eigeiy- 
^Aa/(3494'), in a sheltered situation. (Fine view of Lucerne and its lake 
from the Wilrzenegg.) 

From Sehaehen (see below), the old Bbambog Road leads past the (2 M.) 
FambUMer Bad (2310'), a weU-organised Kurhaus , with a spring impreg- 
nated with iron and soda, and over the Bramegg (3366') to (5 M.) Entlebuch. 

Above Schachcn (I1/2 M. from Malters) the valley contracts. 
The train approaches the Emme, and crosses it near Werthensiein 
(on the left), with its handsome old monastery, now a deaf-and- 
dumb asylum. Beyond a short tunnel we reach (I2V2 M.) Wohl- 
hausen (1873'; pop. 1601; Rosslif Kreuz), a large village, divided 
by the Emme into Wohlhausen-Wiggemon the left bank, and Wolil- 
hausen-Markt opposite. — About 6 M. to the W., at the foot of the 
iVajj/" (see below), lies the Kurhaus Menzberg (3314'), a health resort. 

We here enter the Sntlebuoh, a yalley 15 M. long, with rich 
pastures. The train recrosses the Emme and ascends the £. side 
of the valley (several embankments and four tunnels). 

171/2 M. Entlebuch (2224' ; *mtel du Port; Drei Konige; *Dr. 
Kdgg's Pension^), a well-built village, picturesquely situated. 

The ^Hapf (4620^-, 31/2-4 hrs., guide unnecessary ; '*Jnn at the top, visited 
as a health-resort, pens. 6-6 fr.), to the W. of Entlebuch, is an admirable 
point of view. The route to it crosses the Grosse and the Kleine Emme, 
to the W.5 we then either follow the road by Dopleschicand to (5 M.) Ro- 
moos (2592'; Inn), or reach it by a direct path in 1 hr. ; from Romoos a 



124 Route 38. EMMENTHAL. 

good bridle-path leads to the top in 21/2 hrg. more. — From Trubschachen 
(see below) a road leads to (1^4 ^0 TrubClnn) hnd the iQy2U.)Metnenalp, 
and a bridle-path (practicable for light carts) thence to the top of the 
Kapf in 40 min. — Paths also ascend from Schiipfheim, Eseholzmatt, etc. 
In the Mntlet^hal, on the W. side of the Sdiimberg (see below), 8 M. 
to the S., is the Bchimberger Bad (4677*), with an alkaline sulphur- 
spring. Road from Entlebuch to (6 M.) the EntlenbrUeke ; thence by a bridle- 
path (carriage to the bridge 8, for two persons 10 fr. ; horse to the bridge 7, 
to the Baths 10 fr.) to the weil-eqnipped KurJiauiy the property of Dr. SchifT- 
mann, was destroyed by fire in 1{^, but has been rebuilt. Close to the 
house are pleasant wood-walks with charming views towards the K. \ and 
a good path ascends in 1 hr. to the top of the Sthiwbtrg (6968')^ which 
affords an admirable Alpine panorama. Interesting longer excursions 
to (1^2 hr.) HeiligJn'euz (see below) •, to the (SV? hrs.) ^Feuerstein (6700'), 
with fine view; to the (2V2 hrs.) Schvoendi-Kalthctd (p. 114), etc. 

The train crosses the rapid ErUlenhach , which here falls into 
the Emme. On the left lies the village of Ha«2e, prettily situated, 

22 M. Schfipfheim (2388'; pop. 2872; AdUr; Rdssli), the 

capital of the valley. To the E. (IV2 hr.) is Heiligkreuz (3701'; 

a rustic inn), a summer resort, with a fine view. 

A road (diligence twice daily) leads hence to the S. through the valley 
of the Kleine Emme , the upper part of which is rocky and narrow, and 
past the pretty village of FWhli (Inn), to (10 M.) S&renberg (3812'^ 'Inn), 
m the upper Emmenthal, or Marient?Ml. Guide thence to the (4 hrs.) sum- 
mit of the Brienzer Rothfiom (p. 164), from which a bridle-path descends to 
(2 hrs.) Briens. Comp. p. 164. 

We now cross the Kleine Emme, which rises on the Brienzer 
Rothhom, and ascend the wooded valley of the Weisse Emme to — 

26 M. Egcholzmatt (2815'; *Ldwe; Krone"), a scattered village 
(3163 inhah.), on the watershed hetween the Entlebuch and Em* 
menthal; then descend to (29 M.) Wiggen (;2QO0' ] Rossll), follow 
the right hank of the lifts , and reach (o2y2 M.) Trubschachen 
(2396'), at the confluence of the Trubhaeh and Ilfls, the first village 
in Canton Bern. (Ascent of the Napf, see p. 123.) To the right, 
farther on, is the large timher-huilt hospital of Barau. 

351/2 M. Langnan (2244'; pop. 7191 ; *H6t. Bahnhof] *Hirsch; 
Bar ; Lowe; *H6t. Emmenthat), a large and wealthy village, the cap- 
ital of the Emmenthal, a valley about 25 M. long, 10-12 M. wide, 
watered by the lifts and the Orosse Emme, and one of the most 
fertile in Switzerland. The cheese of the Emmenthal is much 
esteemed; the carefully kept pastures, the fine breed of cattle, 
and the neat dwellings with their pretty gardens bear witness to 

the prosperity of the natives. 

Railway to Burgdorf^ see p. 16. — The Bageschtcayd Hdhe , 1 hr. to 
the K.W. , commands a fine view of the Emmenthal and the Alps; the 
view from the RafrHii (SOdO'), 2V4 hrs. to the K., is still more extensive 
(Panorama by G. Studer). 

Beyond Langnau the train crosses the Ilfls and the Emme. 38 M. 
Emmenmatty 40 M. %nau (Bar; Thurm), 44 M. Zaziwyl (Krone), 
thriving villages. It then skirts the Humberg In a wide curve to 
(46 M.) Konolftngen, 3 M. to the S.E. of which is the frequented 
Schwendlenbad (QS30^), surrounded by fine woods. 48V2M' TdgerU 



SEETHAL. 39. Route, 125 

sehi,' 51 M, Worh (Lowe; Stern), a large village with an old 
ScMoss. Pleasing view of the Stockhorn chain to the left. 

From Worh a carriage-road runs to the E. to (2 M.) the frequented 
watering-place of Enggisteia , situated in a ravine , and (1 M. farther) the 
charmingly aituated ^Btittihubelbad (2414'; unpretending and moderate), 
-with a saline chalybeate spring and a good view, especially fine from the 
Hnbeli (3027'; 40 min.)> Magnificent views are also afiforded by the Oum- 
megg (3208') , reached via Walkringen in IV2 hr., and by the BalUnbUhl^ 
the W. summit of the Hiimberg, reached via Schlosstcyl in 1^/4 hr. (de- 
scent to the railway-station at Tagertschi in 20 min.). 

54 M. Oumlingen, junction of the Bern and Thnn line (change 
carriages for Than, p. 135). Thence to (59 M.) £em, see p. 135. 

39. From Lacerne to Lenzburg (Aarau), The Seethal 

Eailway. 

29V2 M:. Steam-Tkamwat in 23/4-4 hrs. ; 2nd cl. 4 fr. 85, Srd cl. 3 fr. 
30 c. — This ^Seethal Railway^ from Emmenbrticke to Lenzburg offers a 
pleasant tour, though dnaty in summer. The gauge is that of the ordi- 
nary railways, the carriages of which can run on this line. 

From Lucerne to (2^/2 M.) Emmenbruekey see p. 19 ; here we 
change carriages for the ^Seethalbahn', which diverges to the right. 

4 M. Emmen (1410' ; Stern), near the Beussy on the right bank 
of which, V2 ^* ^ ^^ ^'1 ^ ^^6 ^^^ nunnery of Bathhausen, now 
an asylum for poor children. We traverse the fertile Emmenboden 
to (6 M.) Waldibrueke. The line quits the road, here unsuitable for 
a tramway, and ascends, affording a fine view of the Rigi to the right, 
to (8M.)E8cA€n6acA(1561'; Rossli; Lowe), with its large Cistercian 
Abbey and valuable gravel -pits in the vicinity. (Diligence twice 
daily in 40 mln. to Gislkon, p. 69.) 

Above Eschenbach the line rejoins the road, crosses at (9^2 ^0 
BcMwyl (1693') the watershed between the Reuss and the Aa, and 
descends into the Seethal, belonging partly to Lucerne and partly 
to Aargau, one of the most fertile and attractive valleys in Central 
Switzerland. This 4ake*valley', I8Y2 ^* long, is bounded on the 
E. by the long Lindenberg (2953') and on the "W. by the Ehrlose 
(2670') and the Homberg (2595'), and in the middle of it lie the 
pretty Baldegg Lake (or Obere See") and the larger Hallwyl Lake 
(or Untere -8^ee), amidst pastures sprinkled with fruit-trees. 

11 M. Hocbdorf (1653' ; ^Hirsch), a picturesque and prosperous 
village, with beautiful pine-woods in the vicinity. 

ExcuBSiONs. On a hill to the £. (1/2 hr.) is the cantonal deaf-and-dumb 
asylum of Hohenrain (2014'), formerly a commandery of the knights of 
St. John, with a fine view of the Alps. Thence in II/2 hr. to SMtloss Hor- 
hen (2626'; p. 20), a health-resort, affording a superb view to the 17. and 
£.^ then to the O/shr.) ruined castle of Lieli^ another fine point of view, 
to (V2 hr.) Augstholz (hydropathic), and back to (V2 hr.) Hochdorf. The 
whole excursion may be made by carriage. 

To the W. of Hochdorf roads lead by Romerswyl to (4 M.) Oberreinachy 
a ruined castle, with an admirable view of the Seethal and the Jura; by 
the pilgrimage-shrine of ffildiirieden to the (5 H.) chapel commemorative 
of the battle of Stmpach (p. 19); and by Urstcyl to (3V2 M.) Rain, near 



i 



126 Route 39. LENZBURG. 

which is Oberbuchen (2133'), where we obtain a picturesque survey of 
Pilatus and the Entlebuch Hts. 

I2V2 M. Baldegg (Lowe) a pretty village with an old castle, 
now a nunnery and glrls^ school, lies at the S. £. end of the Bal- 
degger Bee (1532'), a lake 3 M. long. Skirting the E. hank of the 
lake, we next reach (15 M.) Oelfingen (Steiri) ^ where the calture 
of the vine begins. On the right is the castle of Heidegg, and 
3/4 M. to the N. is the pretty village of Hitikirch (Kranz ; Engel), 
once a Teutonic commandery, with a seminary for teachers. 

To the N. of Hitzkirch a road leads by AUieit and Aesch to (5 M.) 
Fahraangen (Bar) and Meistersehiccmden (Lowe ; *Pens. Seerose), two large 
and nearly adjacent villages, where straw-plaiting is the chief industry 
(see below) ; thence by Sarmensdorfy past Schloss Hilfihon^ to Villmergen 
and (5 M.) WohUn (p. 2(9. 

Still running towards the N. W., the tramway now intersects 
the fertile plain between the lakes of Baldegg and Hallwyl. I61/4M. 
Richensety with the ruins of the Grunenburg, which was destroyed 
in 1386, standing upon an enormous erratic block. 17 M. Ermen9te, 
a well-to-do village on the Aa. At (18 M.) Mosen the tramway 
reaches the Hallwyler Bee (1383'), a lake 5V2 M. long and 1 1/4 M. 
broad, and ascends on its W. bank to — 

20 M. Beinwyl (1703'; 1430 inhab.; Lowe), a busy, thriving 
village with considerable cigar-manufactories, commanding a charm- 
ing view of the lake. 

Diligence several times daily in 20 mln. to Bevmdi (Bar) and in 1/2 hr. 
to Mention (Stem), two indiutrial villages in the upper Wmenthal. — 
A pleasant excursion from Beinwyl is the ascent of the Boniberg (25^50, 
3/4 hr. to the N.W.*, beautiful view of the Alps and the Jura Mts. 

The cars now run high above the lake to (21^4 M.) Birrwyl, 
with its large factories, and descend thence to (^72 M.) Boniswyl 
(Rail. Restaur.), a busy wifie- trading place. 

To Fahbwangsn diligence twice daily in t hour. The road leads past 
the handsome old chateau of Hallayl, the ancestral seat of the distin- 
guished family of that name, to (I1/2 M.) JSeengen (Bar), a large village, 
with the burial-vaults of the Hallwyl family. About 1/2 M. to the S. E. 
is the Breateaberg Hydropathic, formerly a ch&teau of Hans Budolf v. 
Hallwyl, built in 1625, prettily situated among vineyards at the K. end 
of the Lake of Hallwyl. From Brestenberg we follow the E. bank to 
Tennwyl, MeUter$chw<mden, and (2 H.) Fahrwangen (see above). 

24Y2 M. Niederhallwyl-Durrenasch ; 257-2 M. Seon (Stern), a 
large manufacturing village (1479 inhab.). 

291/2 M. Lenzburg (1302'; 2731 inhab.; ^Krone; Lowe), a busy 
little town on the Aa, with the large cantonal prison. On a hill 
above the town, to the E., stands the old Schloss Lenzhurg (1663'; 
auberge at the top; fine view). Opposite, to the W.. rises the 
Staufberg (1710'). 

From Lenzburg to Aarau and Baden^ see p. 20. 



III. BERNESE OBERLAND. 



40. Bern 129 

Enge? Gurten? Zimmerwald, 134. * 

41. From Bern to Thun 135 

Environs of Thun ; the Gurnigelbad, 136. 

42. TheNiesen 137 

43. From Thun to Interlaken. Lake of Thun 138 

Sigriswyl ; Blume; the Sigriswyl-Grat; the Rothhom ; the 

Schafloch, 139. — The Faulenseebad, 139. — New road 

. from Thun hy Merligen to Interlaken \ BeatenhohlC) 140. 

44. Interlaken and Environs 141 

Excursions. Heimwehfluh; Harder; St. Beatenbei^; 
Scheinige Platte; Habkemtbal; Gemmenalphom: Hoh- 
gant; Augstmatthom ; Saxetenthal; Sulegg, 143-47. 

45. From Interlaken to Lauterbrunnen. Staubbach . . 147 

From Zweiliitschinen to Isenflnh and Miirren, 147. 

46. Upper Lauterbrunnen-Thal. Miirren. Schmadribaoh 148 

• The Allmendhubel ; the Obere Winteregg; the Schilt- 
hom, 149. — The Seftaenthal, 149. — From Mtirren to the 
Obere Steinberg, 161. — From Lauterbrunnen over the 
Sefinenfurgge to the Klenthal, and over the Diinden- 
grat to Kandersteg, 161. — From Lauterbrunnen over the 
Tschingel Pass to Kandersteg, 151. — From Lauter- 
brunnen over the Petersgrat to the Lotschenthal, 152. — 
Schmadrijoch, Lauinenthor, Boththalsattel , and Ebne- 
fluhjoch, 152. 

47. From Interlaken to Grindelwald. Wengernalp ... 153 

The Jungfrau; the Silberhorn, 154. — The Mettlenalp; 
Guggihutte, 154. — The Lauberhorn; the Tschuggen, 
155. — From Grindelwald over the Eismeer to Zasen- 
berg, 157. — The Hannlichen ; Mettenberg ; Schreckhorn ; 
Monch ; Eiger, 157. — From Grindelwald over the Strahl- 
egg and the Finsteraarjoch or Lauteraarjoch to the 
Grimsel Hospice, 157. — From Grindelwald over the 
Jungfraujoch, Monchjoch, Eigeijoch, and Fiescherjoch 
to the Eggishom, 158. 

48. The Faulhorn 158 

The Rothihom ; Schwarzhorn, 160. — From the Scheinige 
Platte to the Faulhorn, 160. 

49. From Grindelwald to Meiringen. Baths of Rosenlaui. 
Falls of the Reiehenbach 160 

The Wetterhornj Berglistock, 160. — Rosenlaui Glacier ; 
Dossenhiitte ; Wetterlimmi, 161. — Hasliberg; Hohen- 
stollen, 163. 

50. From Meiringen to Interlaken. Lake of Brienz ... 163 

Brienzer Rothhom, 164. — Road from Brienz to Inter- 
laken, 165. 

51. The Giessbach 165 

The Enge; Axalp; HinterbuT^-See, 165. — Ascent of 
the Faulhorn from the Giessbach, 166. — From the 
Giessbach to Interlaken, 166. 

52. From Meiringen to the Rhone Glacier. Grimsel . . 166 

Finstere Aarschlucht, 166. — The Urbach-Thal ; Gauli 



128 



BERNESE OBERLAND. 



Pass; Berglijoch; Dossenhiitte, 166. — The Kleine Sie- 
delhorn ; Unteraar Glacier: I^ollfus Pavilion ; Ewigschnee- 
horn; Finsteraarhom, 168, 169. — From the Grimsel 
over the Oberaarjoch or the Stnderjoch to Fiesch, 169. 

53. From (Thun) Spiez to the Gemmi and Leak .... 170 

From Spiez to A^chi and Hahlenen, 170. — The Kien- 
thal ; Gamchilucke ; Biittlassen ; Gapaltenhom ; Wilde 
Frau, 171. — From Frutigen by Adelboden to Lenk ; 
from Adelboden to the Gemmi, etc., 172. — The Blaue 
See, 172. — The Oeschinen-Thal ; Blumlisalp ; Bolden- 
horn; Friindenhorn; Dundenhom, 178. — The Balm- 
horn ; Altel0, 174. — Excursions from Bad Leuk ; Torren- 
thorn, etc., 175. 

54. From Gampel to Kandersteg. Lotschen-Pass ... 176 

The Hohgleifen; Bietschhom, 177. — From Bled to 
Leuk over the Ferden Pass, the Gitei-Furgge, the Besti 
Pass, the Faldum Pass, or the Niven Pass, 177. 

55. From Thtin to Sion ovei the Rawyl 179 

Source of the Simme,178.— The Oberlaubhorn ; Hiilker- 
blatt; Iffigenaee; Wildhom; Bohrbachstein ; Wildatru- 
bel, 179. — From Lenk to Gsteig, Saanen, and Leuk, 179. 

56. From Thun to Saanen through the Simmenthal . . 180 

From Latterbach to Hatten through the Diemtiger 
Thai, 181. — The Stockhorn, 181. — Bad WeiMenburg; 
over the Gantrist Pass to the Gurnigelbad, 181. — From 
Beidenbach to Bulle, 181. — From Saanen to Chateau 
d'Oex. 182. 



Time. A glimpse at the beauties of the Bernese Oberland may be ob- 
tained in four days. (Quarters for the night are indicated by Italics). 
1st Day. From Bern by railway to Thun in 1 hr., steamboat to Darligen in 
IV4 hr., railway to Interlaken in 10 min. — 2nd Day. Drive in IVa br. to 
Lauterbrunnen, walk over the Wengernalp and Little Scheidegg to Orin- 
delwald (6 hrs.). — 3rd Day. Walk over the Great Scheidegg to Meiringen 
(6«/4 hrs.). — 4th Day. Drive to Brienz (IV2 br.), take steamboat to the 
Giessbach, and return to Interlaken and Bern. — Most travellers, however, 
will proceed from Meiringen over the Briinig to Lucerne, or over the 
Grimsel to the Rhone Glacier, etc. (Those who come from Lucerne gener- 
ally cross the Briinig to Meiringen, and then visit Grindelwald, Lauter- 
brunnen, and Interlaken.) In any case the Giessbach merits a visit (after- 
noon excursion from Interlaken). Another day or two may be pleasantly 
devoted to Miirren, the Faulhom, and the Scheinige Platte. — Those who 
prefer it may omit the Wengernalp, and drive from Interlaken to Grindel- 
wald (p. 169). Thence to Meiringen, and from Im-Boden to the Grimsel, 
there are bxidle-paths only. 

Guides, Horaea, Carriages. The charges are given in the respective 
routes. Where there is no fixed tariff, the charge per day for a carriage 
with one horse is usually 15 fr., with two horses 30 fr.*, guide 6-8 fr.; 
horse or mule with attendant 15 fr., donkey 9 fr. For the usual route 
by Lauterbrunnen, the Wengernalp, Grindelwald, the Scheidegg, Meiringen, 
the Grimsel, the Furka, and Andermatt, no guide is necessary; on fine days 
the route is much frequented and can hardly be mistaken. On the other 
hand a guide sometimes affords useful information, and will relieve the 
pedestrian of his knapsack. The principal headquarters of the guides are 
Interlaken, Lauterbrunnen, Grindelwald, and Meiringen. 

The pleasure of a visit to the beautiful Bernese Oberland is somewhat 
-red by the usual drawbacks of favourite public resorts. Contributions 

"evied upon the traveller under every possible pretence. At every gate 






' 'i. 



BERN. 40. Route, 129 

he passes through a group of children who expect to be paid for their super- 
fluous services. He is assailed by vendors of strawberries, flowers, and 
crystals , by exhibitors of chamois and marmots, by urchins standing on 
their heads or turning somersaults, and by awakeners of echoes. Swiss 
songstresses, neither young nor pretty, next appear on the scene, and the 
nerves of the traveller are often sorely tried by the Alpine horn and the 
Ranz des Vaches, which, though musical at a distance, are objectionable 
when performed close to the ear. These annoyances had at length become 
so serious that the government appointed commissioners to inquire into 
the matter. Their advice is, 'Give to nobody* •, and the remedy therefore 
lies principally with travellers themselves. 

40. Bern. 

Hotels^ ^Bbkneb Hor (PI. a; G, 6), adjoining the Federal HaU, B. A A. 4- 
5, D. 5 fr. jpmBLLBvux (PI. b; D, 6), adjoining the Hint, B., L., dS^ A. 372-473) 
D. 4fr.; botn these command a view of the Alps. Schweizkkhof (PI. c : G,4), 
near the station, R., L., & A. S*/?, I>- 4V2fr.*, •Faucow (PI. d; D, 4), m the 
town, E. & L. SVz, D. 4 fr. — H6tel de Fkahce (PI. g; G, 3, 4), R., L., 
& A. 3, D. 3 fr.; ^HoTSL du Juba (PI. h; B, 4), adjoining the Bank, B., L., 
& A. 2Vs^ fr. ) HiBSCH (PI. i; G, 4), these three near the station. — In the 
town: 'Zahbikgeb Hop (PI. u; D, 4), Walsenhausplatz. B., L., & k.^^l^^ 
D. 3 fr. ; 'Pfistbbn {Ahhaye des Boulangers^ PI. k; £, 4), near the clock- 
tower; *Stoech (PI. 1; C, 4), Lows (PI. mj C, 4); both moderate; Hohb 
(PL n; F, 4); Schxibdbm iMarichauXy PI. p; D, 4); ^Hotel zd Webebn 
XH6t. des TisserandSy PI. q; D, 4) and Gasthof zu ZiMXEBLEUTBif (PI. t; 
D, 4), both in the Marktgasse; these last all moderate. — Unpretending: 
ScHLUSSEL (PI. r; £,4); *Bab, near the station, B. 2V«fr.; *Wildeb Hann 
(PI. s; C, 3, 4), Aarberger Str., B. 2, B. l^/i, I>. 3fr. ; Ehmbnthaleb Hop, 
17eue Gasse; ^Kbbuz. Zeughausgasse, opposite the Zahringer Hof, moder- 
ate, B. IV2, D. 2 fp, 40 c, pension 4V2-5 fr. — ♦Pens. Hebter (PI. 05 F, 4), 
well situated, near the Cathedral; ^Pens. Jolimont, Aussere Enge (IV? At- i 
p. 134), with tine view and shady walks (5-6 fr.); *Pens. Victobia (6-6 fr.), 
on the Schanzli (p. 134), for invalids ; also *Pen8. Hdo, in the Mattenhof^ 
5 min. from the town (for surgical cases). 

Cafes and Befttauranta. "Rati. Restaurant. ^Cafi Ccuino near the Fed- 
eral Hall, terrace with view of the Alps; Ca/4 Berna; Ca/4 Stemwarte^ 
on the *Grosse Schanze' (PI. B, 3); Cafi du Thidtret Zahringer Hof (see 
above); SchwelUnmdtteli^ on the Aare; "MUtzenberg, Kesslergasse, moderate. 
At the W. pavilion on the Milnster-Terrasse (p. 131) refreshments are sold af- 
ter 1 p.m. (Sundays after 4 p.m.); music occasionally in the evening, and 
on Sun. 11-12 a.m. — Outside the town: Cafi Bch&ntU (p. 134), beyond the 
railway-bridge (1/2 M.), on the lofty right bank of the Aare (concert or 
summer-theatre daily); "^Cafi in der Enge (p. 134), 1 M. from the Aarberg 
Gate. — Beer. *jrrone, Gerechtigkeitsgasse; Ca/4 Bemay National^ Baren^ 
Schauplatzgasse ; *Cafi Rhyn^ Barenplatz; Cafi Stemaarte (see above); 
Cafi H6i. de France. Bernese beer: Hahnen; ''Cafi Cou^ani, Barenplatz; 
Stadtgarten, Neuengasse; Jtiekery Eramgasse. 

Alpine Boots. Riesen, Spitalgasse; Seheidegger, Waisenhausplatz. — 
CooNAG, Madeira etc. at Demms's, Aarziehle. 

^Zajuid'B KuMiun of Alpine animals, Untere Alpenegg, Engestr. 10 
(PI. B, 2 ; to the left of the railway-bridge, on the way to the Enge). 

Batha. Swimming Bath at the Holzplatz, below the Bemer Hof (cable- 
tram, see p. 133). River Baths below the TJnter-Thor Bridge, by the 'Peli- 
kan' (PI. G, 3), and in the AltenUrg. Water of the Aare very cold. (65*680 F.). 
Pfeiffer"* Baiht in the Lorraine, 8 min. from the Schanzli (p. 134; water 
77-81«F.). — Warm Baths (Turkish, etc.) at Buchler's; Fi'iekhad^ below 
the Mtinster-Terrasse. 

Gabs. One-horse, for V« hi"* 1-^ pers. 80c., 3-4 pers. Ifr. 20c.; each 
additional 'A hr. 40 or 60c. Two-horse: same fares as for 3-4 pers. with 
one horse. Box 20 c, small articles free. From 10 p. m. to 6 a.m., double 
fares. Whole day, i.e. over 8hrs., 1-2 pers. 15 fr., 3-4 pers. 20fr. 

Baedeker, Switzerland. 12th Edition. 9 



130 Route 40. BERN. Com HaU. 

Tramway from the Bears'Den through the chief street to the railway 
station, and thence on to the 'Linde' (Bremgarten Cemetery); fares 10-30 c. 

Post and Telegraph Of&oe (PI. 15), near the station. Branch-office in 
the Kramgasse, at the old post-office. 

Xncrliah Ohureh Service in the Cathedral (10.30 a.m. and 4.30 p.m.). — 
Bom. Oath. Senriee at the French Church, Zeughausgasse : Sun. at 6, 8, 
and 12 ; week-days at the Hauskapelle, Oerechtigkeitsgasse 2, at 6 and 8. 

Attbactiomb. First visit the ^Kleine Schanze^ and the Federal Council 
Hall ; then the Kirchenfeldbrucke and the Cathedral (Miinster-Terrasse and 
Erlach Monument) \ follow the Kreuzgasse to the Bathhaus ; then past the 
Zeitglockthurm to the Corn Market, and cross the Waisenhausplatz to 
the museums; lastly (time permitting) cross the railway-bridge to the 
Schanzli and then return to the station. 

Bern (1765'), the capital of Canton Bern, with 44,087 inhab. 
{including its extensiye suburbs), has been the seat of the Swiss 
government since 1848. Founded by Duke Berthold V. of Zahrin- 
gen In 1191, the town became independent of the Empire in 1218. 
By 1288 its powers had so Increased that it warded off two sieges by 
Rudolph of Hapsburg, and in 1339 the Bernese overthrew the 
Burgundian nobles at the battle of Laupen (p. 192). In 1353 Bern 
joined the Confederation, and in 1528 the citizens embraced the 
reformed faith. In 1415 they conquered part of Aargau, and In 
1536 they wrested the Pays de Vaud from the princes of Savoy; but 
in 1798 they were deprived of these territories. 

The city is built on a peninsula of sandstone-rock, formed by 
thoiiare, which flows 100' below. Most of the broad principal 
streets run from E. to W. Those In the old part of the town are 
flanked with arcades (Lauben), which form a covered way for foot- 
passengers. One of the chief characteristics of Bern consists In its 
numerous fountains, most of them dating from the 16th oent., 
adorned with statues of every variety (Samson, Themis, an Archer, 
a Bagpiper, an Ogre, etc.). In other respects also Bern still retains 
more medieval features than any other large town in Switzerland. 
XT The chief artery of traffic is a series of broad streets , called 
the Spitalgasse, the Marktgasse, the Kramgasse, and the Oerechtig- 
keitsgasse, which extend from the Obere Thor (PI. B, 4) to the Ny- 
deck Bridge (PI. G, H, 4), a distance of nearly a mile. In thisi 
street are situated the Kdfigthurm (PI. 20), now a prison, and the 
A' Zeitglockenthnrm (PI. 21 ; E, 4), once the £. gate of the town, 
but now its central point, rebuilt in 1770. On the E. side is a cur- 
ious clock , which announces the approach of each hour by the 
crowing of a cook , while 2 min. before the hour a troop of bears 
marches in procession round a sitting figure. Being the heraldic em- 
blem of Bern, the bear frequently recurs. Thus, on the neighbour- 
ing Bdrenbrunnen (PI. 2), Bruin appears with shield, sword, ban- 
ner, and helmet. Two bears also support a shield in the pediment 
of the Com Hall (PI. 12), a handsome building, which down to 
1830 always contained a store of corn to be used in case of famine 
(wine-cellar below, much frequented). The Kornhaus-Platz is em- 
bellished with the grotesque SindlifreBBer-Bnmnen (^Ogre Foun- 



Cathedral, BERN. 40. RouU. 131 

tain,* PI. 3; D, 4) ; the ogre is about to devoni a child, while other 
innocents protrude from his pocket and girdle. 

At the E. end of the opposite Metzgergasse are the modern 
Old Catholic Church (Vl. 11), designed by Deperthes of Rheims, 
and the Eathhana or Town Hall (PI. 16; F, 4), erected in 1406, 
and restored in 1868, approached by a handsome flight of steps, 
and adorned with the arms of the Bernese districts. 

ACThe *Catliedral, or Munster (PI. E, F, 4, 5), a fine late-Gothic 
structure, 93 yds. long, 37 yds. broad, and 76' high, was begun 
in 1421, completed in 1573, and restored in 1850. Round the whole 
of the roof runs a beautiful o]^en Balustrade, the design of which is 
different between each pair of buttresses. The W. Portal is remark- 
ably fine; the sculptures represent the Last Judgment; in the 
outer arches are Christ, above, with the Virgin and John the Baptist 
on the left and right, and the Twelve Apostles ; in the inner (smal- 
ler) arches are the Prophets and the Wise and Foolish Virgins. 
The unfinished Tower ^ 134' high, is covered with a clumsy tiled 
roof; the entrance to it is by a side-door in the W. portal. "We 
ascend 223 steps tc the lodge of the tower-keeper (50c.), who shows 
the relative proportions of all the large bells in the world , and to a 

gallery commanding a superb view, 

Ihtbbiok (adm. 20 c.). The Choir contains Stained Qlass of 1496, one 
window representing the dogma of Transubstantiation , another the Life 
of Christ. The Choir Stalls (1522) are adorned on one side with Apos- 
tles, on the other with Prophets. A monument with the armorial bearings 
of Berthold von Zdhringen , the founder of Bern (see p. 130) , was erected 
by the city in 1600. Another in memory of the magistrate Friedrich von 
Steigery bears the names of the 702 Bernese who fell on 5th March, 1798, 
at the Grauholz, 6 M. to the N. of Bern, in an engagement with the 
French. In front of this is a Pietas in marble, by Tschamer (1870). The 
organ rivals that of Freiburg (performance every evening in summer at 8; 
tii^ets, i fr., at the hotels or from the verger). 

'^ The Platz in front of the cathedral is adorned with an Equestrian 
Statue of Rudolph von Erlach (PI. 6), the victor at Laupen (p. 192), 
in bronze, designed by Volmar of Bern, and erected in 1848, with 
bears at the corners, and inscriptions and trophies on the pedestal. 
y. The ^Cathedral Terrace {Munster-Terrasse ; PI. F, 5), rising 
abruptly 110' above the Aare, formerly the churchyard, is now a 
shady promenade with seats , adorned with a bronze statue of Ber- 
thold von Zdhringen (PI. 7; p. 130) , designed by Tschamer^ with 
Bruin as a helmet-bearer. The view from this terrace, as Indeed 
from every open space in Bern, is justly celebrated. In clear weather 
the panorama of the Bernese Alps witnessed here is more extensive 

than from any other spot in the Oberland. 

*news. The most important mountains are marked in the annexed 
Panorama. From other points (the Miinz-Terrasse, Casino-Garden, Bundes- 
Sathhaus, Kleine Schanze, Caf^ Schanzli, and the Enge outside the Aar- 
berger Thor) the following mountains are also visible: — To the right of 
the Doldenhorn, the Balmhorn (12,180*) with the Altels (11,930'; 37 M. 
distant), and over the Gurten, the bell-shaped summit of the Siockhom 
(7195'i 18 M.) J also, to the extreme left, the peaks of the Spanndrier (10515'} 

9* 



p ~ IS M.) kDd ih« ScAlauUrf (10,280-; 51 ■.). 

f BdmMen Be^E«holii^ll (581*™ 24 H.* 

' und the FiBiriUm above (be Bndebuch 

(8700'; 30 K,\ 

Tb«>e mounUins pTuent a, subllDU 

J.pectacle al sunset in doo wealber, e«pe. 
daily wben the W, borlion Is ptrllally 
relied witb thin clondi, >nd tbe pbeoo- 
■nenon calkd the ALrENDLUHEH CQlow of 
. (he Alps'} Is produced. Long after tbe abad- 

1. ow> have fmllen upon tbe vallej'S, and tbe 

i O upwards, « if illumined by n. brigbt in- 

I S. The HUtoriMl Knwnm (PI. U; 

I ^ E, ; Tuee. and Set. 3-5, Sand. lOl/j 

■^ -1'!; at other times 1 pets. 1 tt. ; 

1 J for 12 pars, or more 50 c. each] oon- 

« tg taina atchieological , ethnographical, 

a m anil histodcal collection*, including 

•-' antiquities fiom lake-dwellings and 

!, g- tombs, Swiss implemenU of the flint, 

1' £ bionze, and iron periods, a selection 

so of anolent weapons fiom the arsenal of 

J I Bern, Burgundian tapestry, the fleld- 

Ij £i altar of Charles the Bold, enriched 

^ with gilding and preoions stones (cap- 

|] ^ tuied at Grandson), etc. 

j a Adjoining the museum, on the S., 

I Is the nnlwMityCPI- 22; 360-80 stu- 

I dents), founded in 1834; on the N. 

« side is the Town Libnuj (PI. i ; open 

i( ^ daily, 3-6 p.m.), containing numerous 

. ^ hiatoriea of Switzerland. 

|i % lo the S. of the Unhersity the 

I .S *EircliGnfeIdbraGke (PI. E, 6; splen- 

' •* did view^, a huge iron bridge built in 

is, 1882-83, 751' long, 115' above the 

' Aare, crosses the Aare to the HeWatia- 
Platz in the Kirchtnftld, where a new 

~ quarter of the town is being erected 

gi by an English company. 

■ The boat view of the bridge is 

S obtained from the MUntUrraist (PI. 

I 13), immediately above it, on the left 

I bank. We may now follow the Iriscl- 
Btnsse, past the old InttUpital (PI, 
18), now occupied by the federal 



Kurut'Museum. BBRN. 40. Route, 133 

authorities , to the Casino-Platz (PI. C, 6). To the right , at the 
corner of the Barenplatz and the Schauplatzgasse, is the Museuniy 
a dnb (introduction by a member), with a facade adorned 'with 
statues of celebrated Bernese by Dorer. 

^Cln the Bundesgasse, on the left, rises the ^Federal Council Hall 
(Bundes-Rathhaus, PL C, 5), a handsome edifice in the Floren- 
tine style, 400' long and 165' broad, designed by Studer, and com- 
pleted in 1857 (porter on the right of the principal entrance ; fee 
1 fir. for 1-3 pers.). The sittings of the two legislative assemblies, 
usually held in July, are open to the public. The debates, which 
are generally very keen, are in German or French. Rulings of the 
president, motions, resolutions, etc., are announced in both lan- 
guages. The roof commands the most extensive ^Yiew in Bern. 
— In front, of the Bundes-Rathhaus is a fountain-figure of Bema, 

in bronze , on a pedestal adorned with figures of the four Seasons. 

Between the Council Hall and the Bernerhof is a Cable- Tramwaf/^ 360' 
long (gradient 3 : 10), opened in 1885, which descends to the bathing etablish- 
ments in the Aarziehl (p. 129). Trains every 6 min.; fare 10 c. 

To the W. of this point , passing the Bernerhof , a few paces 
bring us to the pleasant promenades on the *Kleine Schanze (PI. 
B, 0, 5), which affords a superb survey of the Bernese Alps (comp. 
p. 131 ; Panorama by Imfeld), with the Aarethal and the Kirchen- 
feldbrucke in the foreground and the town to the left. 

The Knnst-Knsenm in the Waisenhaus-Str. (PI. C, 3), a fine 

Renaissance building, contains the municipal Picture Oallery 

(50 c, daily 9-12 and 2-5; Sun. IOV2-I2, gratis). 

On the Gkodnd Floob are two rooms to the left containing sculptures 
and casts (1st : Imhof^ Atalanta, Eye, Hagar and Ishmael ; TVeftamer, Pie- 
tas; Dorer ^ Fountain-monument. 2nd: Casts from the antique). — The 
vestibule of the Uppeb Floor contains statues of Miriam, Ruth, Rebecca, 
and David, by Imhof; Bumand^ Herd leaving the mountain-pasture. Ist 
Cabinet: 23. Reinhardi^ thirty plates of Swiss costumes^ several water- 
colours (3. Mindj Cats; 11. Lorp, DeviPs Bridge; 19- Corrodi,, Rome). 2nd 
Cabinet: Early (German and Netherlandish works. 3rd Cabinet: Portraits 
of Bernese artists, etc. — Large Saloon. To the right : 111. Ribera^ St. 
Jerome; E. Oirardet: 133. Going to school, 1^. Almsgiving; Paul Robert., 
Echo \ 128. BonstetUny Falls of Temi ; *153. Ritz^ Engineers on the moun- 
tains; ATb. de Meuron: *141. Chamois-hunter, 143. Negress, 142. The dying 
husband; 146. K. Oirardet^ Scene from the battle of Morat; *153. Anker ^ 
The examination; 152. Pixit^ Huss parting from his friends; 154. Anker ^ 
The dead friend ; 157. Al. Calame^ Waterfall near Meiringen ; *172. Koller, 
Cow and calf in the mountains; 200. Millner^ Mountain pasture; 160. 
Didapy Chalet in the Bernese Oherland; *165. Vautiery Saying grace; 161. 
JHdapy Valley of Lauterhrunnen ; 175. D''0r8chwiller^ Ape concert; 226. 
Buchsery Among the waves; 167. Humbert^ Cattle crossing a river; 166. 
Ouigon, Grand Canal; 166. <7a?am«, Scene near the Handegg; 162. Diday^ 
Evening landscape; 15S. Steffan, Scene near Meiringen; 197. Harrer^ 
Olevano; Ca»t<my The first snow on the Lake of Oeschinen; 185. Walt- 
hardy Skirmish in the Grauholz in 1798; 147. Veillon^ Spring morning on 
the Lake of Brienz; 199. Toble^y Checkmate. — 5th Cabinet. 223. Fritchinffy 
On the Lake of Brienz; 182. Schulery Strasbourg in 1870; 127. L. Robert, 
Italian woman; 224. Zimmermanny AroUa Glacier; 164. Prdvosty Wood on 
the Great Seheidegg. — 6th Cabinet. A. v. Bonstetten, Landscapes. 

Opposite is the Natural History Museum (PI. C, 3; in summer, 



134 RouUdO, BERN. Nydeekbrucke. 

Tues. and Sat. 2-5, and Sund. 10i/2-l^V2> ^'®® j on other days, 8-6, 
adm. 1 fr. ; for 2 peis. or more, 50 c. each). 

To the right on the ground-floor is the Colledion of Mintrala , which 
includes some magnificent crystals (rock-crystal, smoky topaz from the 
Tiefengletscher on the Furka). To the left, Fossils. — On the first floor 
is the Zoological Collection. In the central saloon, with ceiling-frescos by 
Baldancoli, are large ruminants. In the room on the left, birds and eggs. 
In the room on the right, 'mammalia. Adjacent a small room devoted 
to the Swiss fauna. — On the 2nd floor, to the left, amphibia, fish, and 
marine animals; to the right, conchylia, crabs, and insects. 

Adjoining the Museum on the £. is the handsome new School 
Building (PI. G, 3), accommodating the Gymnasium and Com- 
mercial school. — To the W, of the town in the Freiburger Stasse, 
is the large new InielBpital, consisting of six. hospitals ^30 beds) 
and various medical buildings, and erected at a cost of 90,000 L 

Crossing the Railway Bridge (p. 16), at the N.W. end of the 
town, we pass the Botanic Garden and reach (^2 M.) the ^Sohftiizli 
(PI. D, E, 2 ; CafSj adm. for noncustomers 50 c), with a terrace and 
grounds commanding the finest view near Bern. In the foreground 
lies the picturesque city ; above it rises the wooded Gurten ; to the 
left are the Bernese Alps, and to the right the Stockhorn chain, adjoi- 
ned by the Freiburg Mts. ; and to the extreme W. is the MoMson. 

The large Military Dep6t of Canton Bern, in the Beundenfeld 
beyond the Schanzli , erected in 1874-78 at a cost of 41/2 million 
francs, comprises an arsenal, offices, stables with riding-schools, 
and a large barrack. The Arsenal contains large stores of weapons, 
and in the 'AntiquitatensaaV are various curiosities (fee). 

On the E. side of Bern the Aare is crossed by the handsome 
Nydeekbrucke (PI. G, H, 5), in three arches , built in 1844. The 
central arch has a span of 158', and is 100' high. On the right 
bank of the Aare, close to the bridge, on the right, is the Bears' 
Den (Barengraben')y where Bruin is maintained , according to im- 
memorial usage , at the cost of the municipality. Bread and fruit 
are the only offerings permitted. — From this point the Muri- 
stalden, a handsome avenue of plane-trees, affording a fine view 
of the town, ascends to the Schonegg^ returning to the (20 min.) 
town by the Marien-Strasse and the Kirchenfeldbrucke (p. 132). 

To the N., 1 M. from the Aarberg Gate, on the left bank of the Aare, 
is the "'Engey a large peninsula nearly surrounded by the Aare, rising 
high above it, and commanding an admirable view. The finest point is 
the caf^ (p. 129), surrounded by beautiful shady grounds. 

The view from the ^Ourten (2825'; */mi), a long hill to the S. of Bern, 
embraces, besides the Bernese Alps (p. 131), the Stockhorn chain, the Frei- 
burg Alps, the Jura for a distance of 100 M., with parts of the Lake of 
Neuchatel ; and, to the left, the Unterwald and Lucerne Uts. as far as Pi- 
latus. The road from Bern to the (4 M.) Gurten, leads from the Aarzihl- 
Thor to the Cc^fi SchGnegg and (IV2 M.) Wdbcm , from both of which 
points paths also ascend through wood to the top. On the hill-side are the 
BdchUlen and Victoria asylums for deserted children. 

Above Belp (p. 137) , 6 M. to the S. of Bern , lies Zimmeneald (2815' ; 
H5t.-Pens. Beau-S(£jour), charmingly situated, and (4 M. farther) B&tschelegg 
■^71' 5 Inn), with an extensive view. 



41. Route. 135 

41. From Bern to Thnn. 

Comp. Map, p. 140. 

19V8 M. Railway (CentraJbahn) in 1 hr. (3 fr. 36, 2 fr. 86, 1 fr. 70 c). 
View to the right as far as Munsingen; thence to Uttigen on the l^. 
Through-travellers to Interlaken go on to the Scherzligen terminus (see 
below), 1/2 ^- heyond Thun, where the steamer awaits them. 

Bern, see p. 129. On the Wylerfeld (p. 16) the train turns 
to the right, affording on admirable survey of the Alps to the right. 
3 M. Ostermundingen ; 5 M. Oumlingen (H6t. Mattenhof), junction 
for Lucerne (p. 121) ; 8 M. Rubigen ; 10 M. Munaingen. On the 
right rise the Stockhorn chain and Niesen (p. 137), the last spurs 
of the High Alps, and to the left the Monch, Jungfrau, and Bliim- 
lisalp. I2V2 M. Wichtrach; 141/2 M. Kiesen. From this point we 
may ascend to the right in 272 hrs. to the Falkenfiuh (3280'), a 
health resort with a fine view. Near (15^2 M.) Vttigen we cross 
the Aare. On the right of the entrance to the station of Thun 
rises a large barrack. 

19y2 ^' Thnn. — HoteU. *Thdnbb Hof, a large hotel, beautifully 
situated on the Aare, R., L., A A. from 4V*, B. IV2, D. 4»/8-6 fr.; *Bellevue, 
with extensive grounds, B., L., & A. from 3, B. IV2, I>. 4V2-5, pens. 11 fr. ; 
'Fkbienhop, by the steamboat-quay, with Gafd-Restaur. and garden on the 
Aare, B. AA. 2V2^i D. 3, B. U/^fr.'^ *Falke, with terrace on the Aare, 
R. 2-3, D. 3fr.i •Keedz, R. 2, D. 3fr.-, Hot. -Pens. Bauhoabtbn, with 
garden, R. from 2., pens. 6-10 fr.; *Kbonb, adjoining the Town Hall, R., 
L., A A. 2V2 fr. ; Schweizekhof, at the station. — *Pen8. Ittbn, on the 
Amsoldingen road , 6V2 ^r. ; Pens. Eichbuhl, on the lake, near Hilter- 
flngen, 2 H. to the S.E. 

Oflkffo. Freienhof (see above) ; Cafi du Casino, on the way to the Belle- 
vue. Beer at the Freienhof, the Ca/i du Pont, on the way to the railway- 
station, and the SchtUssel, by the Lauithor. 

Baths in the very rapid and cold Aare, to the "S. of the town, 60 c. 
Warm Baths at the Bailie Baths. — Telegbaph Office opposite the Post- 
office. — MoNBT Ghangbb, il. Knechtenhofer. — Boat on the lake, according 
to tariff, 3fr. per hour, 2 hrs. 5 fr., 3 hrs. 7, »/« day 8, whole day 10 fr.; 
but .better terms may sometimes be made. — Cabvbd Wood at /. Kofler's^ 
in the garden of the Bellevue. 

Gab to or from the station 1 fr. Carriage with one horse the first hr. 
4, with two horses 7 fr., each addit. hr. 3 and 6 fr. To Gunten 6 or 8, to 
Herligen 7 or 12, to Interlaken 14 or 25, to Wimmis 6 or 10, to the Blaue 
See 20 or 26, to Kandersteg 20 or 38, to Weissenburg 13 or 24, to Zwei- 
simmen 28 or 30, Saanen 35 or 60, Gsteig 40 or 70, Chateau d'Oex 40 or 
70, Aigle 80 or 160, Gumigel 30 or 50 fr. 

Enolish Chapel in the grounds of the Bellevue. 

Thun (1844'; pop. 5124), charmingly situated on the Aare^ 
3/4 M. below its efflux from the lake, forms a fitting portal to the 
beauties of the Oberland. The principal street is curious. In 
front of the houses projects a row of warehouses and cellars, 
10-12' high, on the flat roofs of which is the pavement for foot- 
passengers, flanked with the shops. Thun is the centre of the 
trade of the Oberland. 

Near the bridge (to the left) a covered way of 218 steps (and 
to the right of the bridge, at the Pens. Baumgarten, a road without 
steps) ascends to the Church, erected in 1738. •View from the 
churchyard, embracing the old-fashioned town, the two arms of 



136 Route 41. THUN. 

the rapid river, the fertile and partly wooded plain, and the Niesen, 
beyond which the snow-flelds of the Doldenhom and the Blilmiisalp 
are visible. — Near the churchyard rises the large square tower of the 
old Caatle of Zdhringen-Kyburg with a turret at each corner, erected 
in 1182, and within the walls of the castle is the Amts-ScfdosSj or 
residence of the Bernese bailiffs, erected in 1429. From the 
'Schloss-Promenade', beside the tower, we obtain a beautiful view, 
to the S.W., of the town, the valley of the Aare, and the Stockhom 
chain. A road, ending in a covered flight of steps, descends hence 
to the market-place. 

^Thun is the seat of the Federal Military School for officers and 
sergeants, chiefly of artillery and engineers, and contains the federal 
manufactories of ammunition. Military mancBuvres take place here 
annually on the 'Almend', or common. The Keramic Museum con- 
tains a fine collection of terracottas, majolica, etc. 

Walks. Above the town on the right bank of the Aare, through the 
Bellemie grounds to the O/4 hr.) "^Pavilion St. Jacques (JakobshUbeli, 2100'), 
commanding the lake, the Alps, Thun, and the valley of the Aare. Higher 
up (8 and 10 min.) are two other ^pavillons^ (Obere and UntereWart), the 
higher of which affords a charming survey of Thun and the valley of the 
Aare. — Another walk is by the road on the right (N.) bank of the Aare 
and of the lake across the '*Bdehimatty with its pretty grounds and Alpine 
view (Eiger, Honch, Jungfrau, Bliimlisalp , Doldenhom , etc.) , to the (20 
min.) Chartreuse (the property of the Parpart family). Here (or by a shorter 
path 8 min. farther back) we turn to the left , passing the Bachihiflzli^ 
cross (10 min.) the Bunibach^ and follow a path through the picturesque 
*Kohleren-8chlucht^ where the brook forms several small falls. This path 
ascends to the Griisisbergwald (see below) and the Ooldiwyl road (Vs hrO' 

On the Bern road, o M. to the N.W. of Thun, lies Jleirnberg^ with 
extensive potteries. — To the H. of Thun is the (IV2 M. ; diligence 
6 times daily in 20 min.; carr. with one horse 3 fr.) considerable village 
of ateffishwg (brewery), whence we may ascend in V2 hr. to the smaJl 
aehnittweyer-Bad (trout), with its mineral spring. — Charming walk on the 
Ooldiwyl Roady which diverges to the right from the Steffisburg road, at 
the '■ffabeli\ a few hundred yards to the K. of the town. (A shorter path 
ascends to the right at the Pens. Baumgarten, with numerous guide-posts.) 
The beautifully wooded QrUsisherg^ which the road ascends, is intersect- 
ed with good paths, furnished with finger -posts. The fijiest points of 
view are the Bappenjluh or Rabenfluh (3844'; 1 hr.) and the Br&ndUsberg 
(2897'; 20 min. from the Babenfluh or 1/2 hr. from the Hiibeli direct), 
which overlook the town, the valley of the Aare, and the Stockhom chain. 
After ahout 2V4 H. the road divides. The left branch leads to (IVa M.) 
Ooldiwyl (3155'; Zyssefs Inn), which may be reached also by a shorter 
road (3 M.) from Thun, diverging to the left before the Bachimatt. The 
right branch leads to (2V4 M.) HeiUgenschwendi (3324'), 3/4 M. to the S. of 
which is the *'Haltenegg 0287*), affording a magnificent view. A picturesque 
way back leads through the Kohleren (see above; descend to the left at 
the guide-post near the bifurcation, mentioned above). 

The handsomest of the villas on the lake is Schadau, the property 
of H. de Rougemont, a modem Gothic building, charmingly situated 
between the left bank of the Aare and the lake, and embellished 
with sculptures in sandstone. On Sundays the garden is open to the 
public. — Farther distant, on the right bank, is the chateau of Hiinegg, in 
the French Renaissance style, the property of Mme. de Parpart. Beautiful 
view from the terrace. Apply to the gardener, who lives on the road, 
V4 M. nearer Thun. No fee. 

Excursions. Thierachem (1867'; Lowe), with fine view, 3 M. to the 
V^. ; 3 M. farther W., Bad Blumenstein and the Fattbach; thence through 



THE NIESEN. 42. Routt. 13 

tbe OHTitigel-Bad (see below). Balhi ef Belitetf'ltcr 
umenstcin, beyond Ibe OanlrSil Fiuii , see p. ISl. - 
viU»ge ajid cis- " " ■ 




Fiom Spiez to (IV4 H.) 5pieiu!j;l<r, see p. 170. We then ci 
the Kander to the right to (2 M.) — 

Wlmmit (2080'; pop. 1349 1 Lotm), a pretty village in a very fer- 
tile diilrict, at the E. base of the Burgpvh f5072'), overloolted by a 
castle of the once powerful Barons of Weissenbnrg, which ifl now 
occupied by a school and the local authorities. The church Is said 
to have been founded by King Rudolph II. of Burgundy in 933, but 
ia mentioned in ancient documents as early aa 533. 

AsoEKT or TBI ViESEH PBOK WiHMis. Tbc patb uceodx OQ the S. side 
DflheBurgfluh. After 35min. it croiies the Slaldinbachi S min. later, by 

pulnru and wood, paasinii Ibe chalel ou tbe Bergli. By Ibe hrs.) 
chalets of Unlirilaldtn (4941') the path crosses to tbe rieht bank of the 
Staldenbub, and winds up (he slopes of (he Kiesen, past (be chalets oF 



THE WIESEN. 



ObmMiea 0SR831. The prospect flrst revesU Ilself beyond the fl'/i tT.) 
SlBMni(jj (B3*6'l, K sh«rp ridge connecting tbe BcttJIah (TB24') or From- 
hrratiorn witta tbe Nie^en, where the insl snowfields ot (he BliimlisBtp snd 



Blnpea 








(wlenev 


c it dlvld 


Ji. Ihe 


-,5^T« 


bfMCh 


must be set 


cled), 4S far 








P/. b 


)l then 


tbrnn^ wood (1 hr 


) and over 






°the"teiet3 of Bt 


I((ft(m- 


™w4 


tDd Ihe St 


im-Alp, in n 






dings, io 


he (2i/j3 hrs.) 




Inn. Thi. r 


ute afford! 1 




rous >nd 


divemifled 


views. 


bBttbe 










or riding 


(Drinkin 






milk a 




















p. ni). The 


p»th (B hrs 


. not fit fo 


r rldln 




PHfol' 




^e left ne>F 




K. end 


of the village to 


H'il.UeH 


{1/5 hr. 




filUffiOcA, uien 


ds in w 


(ilrn. " 


ugh w 


wd u>d 




Ibe Sriliia^ 


to the (iV. 


hr.J 




Thence 








to tbe (I'/i b 




«™(ilirflfr«» («lff), 


nd lb 




npidly 


to the (20 m 


nOi'MttoIp, 




put th 


UiUm an 


a Ohen Siaiif 


Jlp 10 


the (!■/. br.) 


Slaldentee, vben 




the palb 


•torn. V 








8»e direction 


■Sordi > bei 






Kuder- 


Ibii'a^ 


"thoVliS.- 


-IBM, 5 min. 




tbe .un.mil, R., L., 


IkX 


B. 2, fr. 



The *KiMmi (TT63'), the conepicuous N. outpost of ■ 'bTtnch 
of the Wildstrubal , and like Pilstus regarded &b an infallible baro- 
meter (see p. 90), rises in the farm of a gently sloping pyramid. 
The rocks at the base are clay-slate, those of the upper part sand- 
stone-conglomerate. On the top there is room (or about 50 persons 
only. The Alps are seen to greater advantage here than from the 
Rigt. The view vies with that from the Faulhorn ; there Ihe Wetter- 
homer form the foreground; bete we are close to the beautiful 
snovry BlQmlisalp at the head oC the Kienthal. 

View (eomp. the jiinorima, p. lli^. The moit conspicuons mowmo. 
nntaina are: to the E. the distant Tltlia: nearer, the Wetterbomer and 
Schreckhilmer, tbe Eiger, Honcb, Jungfrau. OleMcherhom. Ebneltub, Hit- 
(a«hom, Orosiboni, Breltbom, ud Tschlngelhom ; to tbe 8. tbe Bliimlli- 
alp with Iti three peaks (Horgenbom, Welige Frau, BlUmllsalpborn), the 
Doldenbom, Balmhora, and Altels; to Ibe W., tbe Wlldhom, appearing 
between two black peikl^ to the left of these tbe pipnaclu of the HonI 
Blanc eroup; then Ihe Iwo peaks of the DenI duVldl, tbe lait snow- 
group towards tbe W. The entire Lake of Thun is Tisible, and part of 
that of Brieni. The thickly peopled valleis of Ihe Siniioe, EnBatligenbach, 
and Kinder, and the Kienthal may he traced tor a long diitanee. Towards 
tbe N. the course of the Aare, and the hill-country of Be™ , ai far as 
tbe Jura, complete Ihe prospecl. Beit light towards snnsel or in tbe 



43. From Than to Interlaken. Lake of Thun. 

Cojnp- Map, p, HO. 
SlBiBBoii i-6 times dally in 1"/, hr. from Thun I3clurilii/Hi com 
ISfil to Dartiftni atationg Oterisfen, Ounten, Spiti, Mtrligci, LtiiHg 
! last two not always loucbed at). — RaiLwai from Darligen to InU 



from Thun to Interlaken 2 fr. 95 c); from Interiaken to BSMptn (p. 1 
.... . .. ., _ .. . _ _ - ■ ■ „ (fg 1 



■e »l or iOc. — R 

"le S. fiut a new road (tfii t H,; onehorK 



two-bine 26 fr.)'. which between Merilgen ' and Noubans will 
era (comp. p. 140). 



LAKE OP TBDN. 43. Route. 139 

The 1»k» of Thnn (1837'; greatest depth, TIW") Ib 11 M. 
long, and nearly 3 M. broad. The banka are at first studded with 
TlUis and gardens, but, farther on, the N. bank becomes precipitous. 

The SrsiMBOAT starts from the quay near the Freienhof Hotel 
(p. 135), aacende theAure, stops at the Rellevne, and then at 
Sefifniigtn, the railway 'terminus Tsee p. 135). To the left, among 
the trees, is the Charlraut fp. 136); to the tifiht, where the Aare 
emerges from the lake, Schloii Schadaa (p. 136). The Storkhorn 
(7195*), with its conical summit, and the pyramidal Niesen CTTeS^ 
rise on the right and left of the entrance to the laUeys of the Kander 
and Simme [p. 181). To the left of the Niesen are the glittering 
snow-fleldl of the Blilmlisalp ; on the right, at the head of the Kan- 
derthal, the FrQudenhorn, Doldenhorn, Balmhom, Altels, and 
Rinderhom gradually become visible (from left to right). In the 
direction of Interlaken appear successively (from right to left) the 
Mittaghom, Jnngfrau, Mdnch, Elget in the toregronnd, and farther 
off the SchTeckborn and Wetteihoin. 

The steamer skirts the N.E. bank, which is clothed below with 
vIIIbb and gardens and higher np with woods, and passes the pretty 
village of Atlf«r/!n^«i (Fens. desAlpes) and the chfiteau of Hanegg 
(p, 136). It touches at Obwhofen (Penaiont 'Moy, 'Obtrhofen; 
SeilaaT. Zimmtrmann), which has a picturesque chateau of Coun- 
tess PourtaUs, and at Gnnten {Wtissei Sreue,- 'Fent.duLac, btt.\ 
Birich; 'Peru. Oraber, all on the lake; Pem. Schonberg , on the 
hill, 10 min. from the lake, 5 fr.). 

* road BUSDda fmin Qanten to (Vi lir.) Kjriawyl (2621'-, Pmt. Biit, 
matic), a prellUy aitoatod villaee. The Slmns (4S77'i line Tiew) la aiccniied 

Ofrcr-BeryH, COW) by tb« Alpiglni Alp in 3>/r3 lirs.; tbe BttrOugla- Bolh- 
Iton (SrS!'; ga!d«). Ibe higheat point of the Sigrigwyl-Gnt, In 4 bri. 
— On lbs steep elnpe oT Iba SigriAwyt-Gnt towards lh« /minimal 
(p. 40) la the Bcliafloti mtO), a grand Ice m och d f tlie Obers 
BerEll by a giddy path in ■/• hr. (guide and re ry) 

The steamer now crosses the lake at th b ad t p rt, towards 
the S., to SpiM (*Sp(««- Hof, with g d n cd 1 We hatha, B., 
L., AA.3Va-4, D. 4,penB. 7-8fr.; 'P tM 8 h negg 8/j M. from 
the lake, pens. 6 fi,), a small village p tt ly s tuated on the S. 
bank. The picturesque old chateau , whi h f rm ly belonged to 
the Eriach family, is now the property f R lin g ntl man, who 
has restored it and surrounded It with pretty ground, (visitors 
admitted); the interesting armoury Is open on Wed. (adm. 1 fr., for 
the benefit of the poor). From this point two black peaks are risible 
for a short time towards the F., above the S. bank of the Lake 
of Brieoi ; that to the right is the Faulhom, the broader to the left 
the Schwarzhoin, 

To AhcM. lee p. 171; ascent nf Ibe JffeKn, p. 137. Diligence tn c™- 
Hff«. sae p. iTOi to ZatiiimmiTi, see p. 18!. - Above the villata oCFauita- 
lu, 3 M. to tbf S. E. (mad, see p. ITl), is the 'FaulenaH-Bad eBSy-, R., L., 
t k, 4, D. 8Vt, pens. fr« fr,), with a minenl spring, pleasant groandi 
and beanUfnl dew. 



140 Route 43. LAKE OF THUN. 

On the N. bank lire next obserre the abrupt Sigrisvoyl-Orat, 
with the bold Balligstocke (COGGQ and the Sigriswyler Rothhom 
(6737Q. On the lake is Schloaa Ralligen, Beyond stat. Herligen 
(*H6t. Beatus ; Lowe), at the mouth of the Jusiisihalj the Na»e^ a 
rocky headland, projects into the lake. High up on the steep bank 
runs the new road, hewn in the rock at many places (see below). Ou 
the margin of the lake lies the chateau of Lerow ; and farther on 
are the Beatenbach and the ravine of the Sundgrdben (see below). 

A good bridle-path ascends from Herligen to the (iVz hr.) Kurhaus 
St. Becitenberg : 1 M. from Merligen it diverges from the new road (see 
below) to the left ; farther up, where it divides below a meadow, we tarn 
to the left again. 

On the S. bank lies £rat%en (Stern) ; then Xeis^tyen (Stein- 
bock), at the base of the Morgenberghorn (p. 146), pleasantly situated 
among fruit-trees. The steamboat stops at Sarligen (*Pen8. Schdn), 
the terminus of the ^Bodeli Railway ^^ which conveys us to Inter- 
laken in lOmin. Opposite, on the N. bank, lies Neuhaus, the former 
landing-place (see below). 

The Railway at first skirts the lake , passing under a viaduct. 
To the left , at the influx of the Aare , is the ruin of WeUsenau 
(p. 144). To the right, farther on, we have a fine view of the Monch, 
Eiger, and Jungfrau. The station for (2^2 M.) Interlaken is at the 
village of Aarmilhle. Y4 M. from the beginning of the Hoheweg. 



The new *Road on thb N. Bank of the Lakb of Thun leads 
fromThun "by Hilterfingen and Oberhofen to(6M.) Qunt€n(j^. 139); 
then across the Stampbach (waterfall) and past the old ch&teau of 
Ralligen to (274 M.) Merligen (see above), 1 M. beyond which theve 
bridle-path to Beatenberg diverges to the left (see above). The road, 
remarkable for the boldness of its construction, ascends round the 
Nose (see above), passing through two rock-tunnels, skirts the preci- 
pitous slopes high above the lake, crosses the Kruibach-Tobelj and 
leads through wood (passing the chateau of Lerow , below , on the 
right) to the (2 M.) bridge over the Beatenbach (♦Italian Restaur.). 

A path leads hence in i|4 hr. to the Beatenh&hle, from which the Beaten- 
bach dashes forth with a noise like thunder in spring and after heavy 
rain. St. Beatus, the first apostle of Christianity in this region , is said 
to have dwelt in this cavern. 

Three more tunnels ; then a gradual descent. Beautiful view 
of the lake, with the Eiger to the right. Crossing the Sundgraben, 
we observe the houses of Sundlauenen below us, on the right. Then 
past the (IV2 M.) Kiiblibad or St. Beaiusbad (Engl. Pension) and 
the Neuhaus (on the right), to Vnterseen and (3 M.) Jnterlaken. 

44. Interlaken and Environs. 

Comp. Mapy p. 154. 

Hotels and Fenaions (omnibus 1 fr.). On the EOhetoeg, from W. to E. : 

A«H6t. MfiTBOPOLE (PI. 1), pens. 7-11 frt 'Victobia (PI. 2), with lift, R., L., 

& A. from 5, B. iVa, T>. 5, pens. 8-12 fr.; beyond it the small Pension 




.'firi jy'it Aiiu' T.TTajniPr » i>-l>r»,ijeiiiii^ 



Ki it>iiCcCr*s 1 

' if ' j ^ 5 h 






nJttixrfn 







INTERLAKEN. 44, Route. 141 

VoLTZ (PI. IS), and *B&t. Hosn (PI. 30), unpretending ; *Junofbau (PI. 3), 
B., L., dk A. from 4Vst !>• iVs-d fr. ^ *SoHWBizBBnoF (PI. 4); ^Bblvxdesb 
(PI. 5), R., L., & A. from 4, D. 4 fr. j *H6t. des Alpes (PL 6); *H6tbl 
Bbaurivagb (PI. 9), R., L., & A. from 0, D. 4V2-5 fr. ; Hot. du Nord (PI. 7), 
B., L., & A. 4V4, B. IVst ^' * fr- ; ♦H6t. Inteblakbn (PI. 8), R. L. & A. from 
3Vt» D- 3V2i pens. 7-8 fr.; Hot. du Lac (PI. 10), R., L., & A. 4, D. 3 fr. 

To the W. of the Hoheweg, in the direction of the railway-station : 
H3t. Oberland (PI. 12), R., L., A A. 3, D. 3, pens. 6-7 fr. •, opposite to it, 
B688L1 (PI. 26), moderate; *Wei88E8 Kbkuz (PI. 11), R. 11/2-2. D. 3, B. lV4fr.; 
•Adler (PI. 14) ; *H6t. Bbboeb (PI. 28), R. , L., A A. 2V2-3V2, D. 2V2, pens. 5-7 fr.; 
Hot. -Pens. Ersbs (PI. 27), moderate ; ^Hot. de la Gabe (PI. 29), the last three 
near the station; Schwan, R. 1-2 fr. — Kear the lower bridge over the Aare : 
^Bellbvue (PI. 15), pens. 5V«*6Vs fr* — On the small island of Spielmatten : 
*HdT. DU Pont (PI. 16), with garden, R., L., &A. 4, D. SVs, pens. 6-8 fr.; 
*Krone. — At Unterseen: *H6t. Untebseen (PI. 17), pens. 6 fr. ; •Beau- 
Site (PI. 18), pens. 6-8 fr.; Eiger CEnglUh Pension'*)^ on the Neuhaus 
road, well spoken of; ^Pension St. Beatus (Mrs. Simpkin)^ well situated 
near the Lake of Thun. 

To the S. of the Hoheweg, on the road to the Kleine Rugen: •Deut- 
8CHEB Hof (PI. 20), R., L., <fe A. 3«M, B. l*/*, D. SVa, pens, from 6 fr.; *H6t. 
Kational (PI. 19), B., L. A A. 3V«, D. 5V« f'.? Hot. Rebeb (PI. 21), pens. 
6 fr.; Hot. Obeb, or 'Schlossli' (PI. 23), pens. 7-9 fr.; ^Pens. Villa Bischoe- 
FBEBGEB; "^HoT. JuNGFBAUBLiGK (PL 22), OB the Kleine Rugen (p. 142), a 
first-class house, commanding a splendid view, with pleasant grounds; R., 
L., & A. from 6, B. 11/2, D.5, omnibus lV2fr. ; pens, in July and August 
12-16, at other times 8-12 fr.; *HAt.-Pen8. Mattenhof, prettily situated 
close to the Kleine Rugen, pens. 6V2 fr.; Pens. Zwahlen, moderate. 

In the Environs of Interlaken good and inexpensive quarters may be 
obtained. At Wildernafi (p. 147), U/2 M. to the S. : *HdT. Schonbuhl, in a 
fine lofty sitaatlon, pens. 5-6 fr. ; "Bab, pens. 4V2 fr. — At Otteigwjfler (p. 
147): Pens. Schonfels. — On the Brienz road, on this side of the church- 
hill of Goldswyl, (8/4 M.) Pens. Felsenbog , 5V2 fr. — At Bdnigen (p. 164) 
on the 8. bank of the Lake of Brienz, li/s M. E. of Interlaken : *Pens. Bel- 
lbbivb, ^Penb. BdHiGBN, and *Chalbt du Lao, moderate. — At Beaten' 
berg, see p. 144. 

Caaino on the Hoheweg, with caf^, reading, concert, billiard-rooms, 
etc. ; music daily 7.30 to 8.30 a.m., and 8.80 to 6 and 8-10 p.m. ; whey-cure 
7-8 a.m.; admission for one day 50 c, for a week 2V2 fr. or 10 fr. per month ; 
for extra entertaiments 1 fr., or for subscribers 50 e. per day. The ^Jeu 
de Courses\ a mild kind of gambling, is played here. At the back of 
the Casino is a whey-cure establishment. 

Boatanraiits. Baiarisehe Bierbrauerei^ with garden, next to Hdt. Beauri- 
vage; C<^/i Oberlcmdf H61. du Pont, on the Aare, with 'Biergarten'' and a fine 
view ; Berger and Krebs, by the railway-station. — Oonfectioners : Weber, 
Bahnhof-Str. ; Berger, at the entrance to the Eurgarten. 

Baths in the Hot. M^tropole, Beaurivage, etc. — Honey Ohangers; 
Volksbank, Ebersold^ both Bahnhof-Str. — Druggist: Seewer. 

Carriages, ffortes, Ovides, see pp. 146, 146, 147, 152, etc. — Donkeys, 
IV2 fr. per hour. — Post and Telegraph Office adjoining the Oberlander Hof. 

English Ohnrch Service in the old Convent Church. Presbvterian Ser- 
vice (Scottish Free Church) in the Sacristy of the Schloss at 11 and 4. 

The low land between the lakes of Thnn and Brienz, which are 
2 M. apart, is called the ^BodelV. These lakes probably once formed 
a single sheet of water , but were gradually separated by the de- 
posits of the Lutschtne, flowing into the Lake of Brienz, and the 
Lomb€Uih, which falls Into the Lake of Thun. These accumnla- 
tions, first descending from the S., out of the valley of Lauterbrun- 
nen , and then from the N. out of the Habk^ren valley, account for 
the curve which the Aare has been compelled to describe. On 



142 RouUU. INTERLAKEN. Vnierseen, 

ibis piece of land, 'between tbe lakes', lies Interlaken (IdBSQ, con- 
sisting of tbe villages of Aarmuhle, Matten and Vnterseen^ and ex- 
tending nearly as fax as tbe Lake of Biienz (total pop. 4116). 

Tbe principal resort of visitors is tbe *H5beweg , an avenue of 
fine walnuts , extending from tbe village of Aarmiible to tbe upper 
bridge over tbe Aare , and flanked witb large botels and tempting 
sbops. Tbe central part of tbe avenue, wbicb is open towards tbe 
S., commands a beautiful view of tbe Lauterbrunnen-Tbal and tbe 
Jungfrau (finest by evening ligbt). On tbe N. side is tbe CaainOy 
a building in tbe Swiss style, witb garden, reading-room, etc. 
(entrance between tbe Scbweizerbof and Belvedere; music, etc., 
see above). On tbe S. side , fartber on, rises tbe old monastery 
and nunnery of Interlaken y founded in 1130, and suppressed 
in 1528, surrounded by beautiful walnut-trees. Tbe E. wing of 
tbe monastery bas been used as a bospital since 1836; tbe rest 
of tbe building, witb tbe Scbloss added in 1750, is occupied by 
government-offices. Tbe nunnery bas been converted into a prison. 
Tbe cboir of tbe monastery -cburcb is now an English Chapel. 
A small cbapel is used by a Frencb Protestant and a Scottisb Pres- 
byterian congregation. Tbe nave of tbe cburcb is a Roman Catbolic 
place of worsblp. To tbe left, at tbe upper end of tbe Hobeweg, tbe 
road to Brienz crosses tbe Aare by a bandsome new bridge, imme- 
diately above wbicb are tbe railway-bridge and tbe Zollhaus station 
of tbe Bodeli Railway (p. 164). 

Towards tbe W. tbe Hobeweg is continued by tbe busy street 
wbicb leads tbrougb AarmuhUy and past tbe Post Office (see p. 142), 
to tbe railway-station. To tbe rigbt are tbree bridges (fine view 
from tbat in tbe centre) crossing tbe island of Spielmatten to tbe 
small town of Unterseen (1995 inbab.), wbicb consists cbiefly of 
wooden bouses darkened witb age, witb a large square and a modem 
cburcb. Large manufactory of parqueterie. 

Interlaken is a favourite summer resort, and is noted for its 
mild and equable temperature. Tbe purity of tbe air, tbe wbey- 
cure, and tbe beauty of tbe situation attract many visitors, wbile 
otbers make it tbeir headquarters for excursions to tbe Oberland. 

Walks. Tbe *Kleine Bugen is a beautiful wooded bill to tbe 
S. of Interlaken, on tbe Wilderswyl road. Tbe principal patb, pro- 
vided witb bencbes, ascends by tbe Hotel Jungfraublick in a 
straigbt direction, leading round tbe bill to tbe left , and affording 
varied views of tbe Bodeli and tbe valley of Lauterbrunnen , to 
tbe *Humboldtsrube' (view of tbe Jungfrau and Lake of Brienz). 
In 1/2 ^^' ^® reacb tbe Trinkhalle (Caf ^-restaur.), commanding tbe 
Jungfrau, Moncb, and Scbwalmern. [A little before tbe Trinkhalle 
a patb to tbe rigbt ascends to tbe Tanzboden (a level spot in tbe 
wood) and tbe (20 min.) Rugenhohe (2424^, a pavilion witb a 
view of tbe Jungfrau and tbe lakes of Thun and Brienz.] Beyond 
tbe Trinkhalle tbe main patb leads to tbe left, round tbe bill, 



Heimaithllilh. INTERLAEEN. 

passing the 'Soheffel Pftilllon' 
(with a view of the Lake of Than), 
tha Kailhoferattin (see below), 
and the reBecioii (fed from the 
Saietenthal, p. 146), and back to 
the HStel JuDgrraublick ('/^ hr.). 
Other paths, with beaRhes in 
shady nooks and points ot view, 
lamifyfiomthemMnwalkin every 
direction. About tha beginalag 
otthe century the hill was planted 
by the chief foreater Kasthofer 
with Bpecimena of the principal 
trees of Switzerland. The stone < 
above mentioned bears an in- S 
aoriptionto his memory. — Jnstbe- ., 
yond the Ttinkhalle a path diver- | 
ges to the left, and by a (1 min.) ^ 
bench descends to the right to (he ^ 
WagntrenichluchI (see below). g^ 
Another leads straight past the 2. 
bench, Bklrtingtbe wood andkeep- | 
ing to the left, to the (10 min.) g. 
Cafi UnijHinntn (see below). a 

*BBimvehfliih(2218'). From p 
the station, from Aarmiihle, and 
from Matten, roads lead to the a; 
(V?M.)entranoetotheB'n^err!n- 2- 
tdUucht, to the W. of the Kleirie ^ 
Rngen. We ascend the ravine ^. 
for about 300 paces, and diverge ° 
by a path to the right, which |. 
ascends rapidly, passing a flue ^ 
point of view on the right, in 20 ^ 
min. to the Reitaurant. The '~' 
terrace commands a charming 
view (finest in the afternoon) of 
the Bodeli and the lakes of Thun 
and Brienz ; the Jungfrau, Munch, 
and Eiger are visible from the 
small belvedere higher up. — Path 
from the TrinkhuUe, see above. 

The ruin of 'Uiupimiieii (40 
min,), with a splendid Tiew of 
the Lauterbrunnen valley , the 
Jungfrau, the Munch, and the 
Lakeof Biienz, isreached through 



4 

i 



144 Route 44. INTERLAKEN. St. Beatenberg. 

the WagnSrenschlucht (at the end of which on the left , is *Cafi 

Unspunnen, with beautifnl view), or by the Kleine Rugen (see p. 143). 

The rained castle of Weissenau (2 M .) on an island in the Aare near 
its influx into the Lake of Thun (p. 1^), is reached by the old road 
from Matten, or by the road from Unterseen to Thun. 

To the Hohbiihl (2070'; 1/2 hr.), on the right bank of the Aare, a path 
ascends to the left immediately beyond the upper bridge over the Aare. 
(The lower path to the left leads to the Voffttruht on the Aare, a resting- 
place and spring.) The pavilion commands a fine view, which is more 
extensive from the grassy slopes of the Untere BUieki^ a few hundred 

5 aces higher. (The footpath leads to the right, crossing a brook after 
min.) From the Untere Bleicki a narrow path, called the Oreierz-Leiter, 
descends direct to the Lustbiihl (see below). Or we may return to the 
Hohbiihl and descend thence by steps to the Vogtsruhe, skirt the right 
bank, pass a rifle-ground, and reach the narrow and stony plain of Ooldei^ 
between the Harder and the Aare, at the base of the Falkenjluh^ the upper 
part of which, seen from the proper point of view, resembles an old 
man's face (the Hardermannli). On a rocky hill below the Falkenfluh is 
the Lustbiihl, a pavilion commanding another fine view. We may now 
return to Interlaken by the bridge behind the Casino (in all, 11/2-2 hre.)* 
— The Harder may be ascended by a picturesque and safe route (practi- 
cable for riding) which diverges to the right, from the Habkern road, 
1 M. to the N.W. of Unterseen, before the road to Beatenberg. We as- 
cend at first through wood (path steep at places) to (2 hrs.) the Hardtf^ 
matte (3988'), which commands a magnificent view of Interlaken and the 
Bernese Alps. Thence we descend, passing above the Hardermannli (see 
above), to the Untere Bleieki and the (1 hr.) Obere AeurebrUeke at the E. 
end of Interlaken (see above). The beaten path should not be quitted 
without a guide, as accidents have occurred owing to the precipitous 
character of the mountain. — The Thurmberg, ascended in V2 hr. from 
Goldswyl, beyond FeUtnegg on the Brienz road (p. 164), overlooks the 
Lake of Brienz and the small, sombre Faulensee or lake of Goldswyl. — 
A walk may be taken by the same road to (3 M.) Binggenberg , with a 
picturesque church built among the ruins of the castle (view) , and to 
the Schadburg (2388'; iVs M. farther), on a spur of the Graggen, an un- 
finished castle of the ancient barons uf Binggenberg, a still finer point. 

LoNOEB Excursions (comp. the Map, p. 154). To St. BbatbN" 
BBRO, 2^2 lifs. (one-horse carr. from the station to the Kurhaus 17, 
two-horse 28 fr. ; diligence daily In 3 hrs.; 5, retninlng 4 fr.). 
The road diverges, 1 M. from Interlaken, to the left from the road 
into the Habkemthal (p. 146), crosses the Lombaeh^ and ascends 
through wood in windings (avoidable by shortcuts), passing a re- 
freshment-stall which overlooks the Lake of Than. 

St. Beatenberg. — ^Kdbhaub (Dr. imier^s)^ at the W. end, with a 
pleasant plantation near it, 21/2 M. from the Hdtel des Alpes, with 130 beds 
and two 'd^pendances"', R. 3-6, D. 4V2, pens. 8-12 fr. — At the E. end of 
the village, on this side of the Sundgraben : ^Hot. des Alpes; ^AtPENnoss, 
pens. 6-S fr. ; beyond the Sundgraben : ^Bbllevue, with admirable view, 
R. Sl L. 3 fr. ; ^Pens. Victobia; Pens. Waldrand (unpretending); ^Pbmb. 
Beatbice; at all these, pens. 6-8 fr. — English Church Service at the 
Bellevue. 

The village of 8t. Beatenberg (STGOQ, a favourite health-resort, 
lies in a sheltered situation on both sides of the Sundgraben, which 
opens towards the Lake of Thun. Admirable view of the Alps, from 
the Schreckhorn to the Niesen, including the Eiger, Monch, Jung- 
frau, Bliimlisalp, Doldenhorn, and Wildstrubel. Good wood carv- 
igs at moderate prices. 



Seheinige PlatU. INTERLAKEN. 4 d. Route. 145 

A much finer point of view is the *Amnisbilhel '(4883' ; */»» at the 
top), 25 min. to the E. of the Hdtel des Alpes (not quite S hrs. from In- 
terlaken). Walkers from Interlaken diverge from the road to the right by 
a finger-post, */4 M. below Beatenberg, and reach the top thence in V« br. 

Pleasant walk from the Kurhaus to the Waldbrand (25 min.) \ beautiful 
pine-wood and charming views. — Beyond the plantation by the Kurhaus 
a path to (V4 hr.) Merligen descends to the left. 

Ascent of the '*Oemmenalphom {OnggUgrat^ 6T720 from the Amnisbuhel, 
2Vs ^M. ; guide 3 fr. (unnecessary for the experienced). To the foot of 
the Horn a gentle ascent over pastures ; the last Vz hr. steeper. Superb 
view, ranging from Pilatus to the Stockhorn chain and the Diablerets; 
at our feet lies the Justisthal (p. 140); beyond it are the Aare, Bern, and 
the Jura Mts. The Lake of Thun is not visible. 

The Niederhom (6447') and Burgfeldsiand (6782'), each 2V2-3 hrs. from 
Beatenberg, are also fine points of view. 

From Interlaken to the *Oi€88haeh on the Lake of Brienz (p. 165) 
a steamer plies four times daily in summer (comp. p. 164). 

Bonigen (II/2M.), Osteig (i^/i M.), with a fine view from the 
churchyard, and Osteigwyler (272 M.), with the ^Hohe Steg^ over the 
Liitschine, also afford pleasant walks from Interlaken. 

The *Sclieiiiige Platte (6790'; to the top 31/2-4 hrs. ; bridle- 
path from Osteigwyler) is one of the finest points of view in tfie 
Bernese Oberland. (Horse, incl. carriage to Osteig, 17 fr.; boy^to 
carry luggage 1-2 fr.) Prom Interlaken to (1^/4 M.) Osteig, see p. 147. 
Here we may cross the bridge by the church and follow the road to the 
right to (%M.) Osteigwyler (Pens. Schonfels). In the middle of the 
village the bridle-path ascends to the left, and very soon to the left 
again ; after 12 min. it ascends in zigzags to the right, through wood. 
Or, shorter, we may ascend from Osteig to the left, by a path between 
the church and the inn, turning to the right where the path divides, 
and in 20 min. reach the bridle-path at the point where it enters 
the wood. The bridle-path now mounts by numerous zigzags to 
the (11/2^0 Schonegg (4754'; cabaret), which overlooks Inter- 
laken and the lakes of Thun and Brienz, and to the (1 hr.) mountain- 
crest, and crosses its W. extremity. (On the right a furrowed rock 
called the 'Ameisenhaufen\ or ant-hill). A few steps more bring 
US to a striking scene. The Lauterbrunnen valley lies at our feet, 
its dizzy abysses descending almost perpendicularly to the Liitschine, 
and to the left towers the majestic Jungfrau. Following the S. slope 
of the crest for 35 min., we arrive at the *H6tel Alpenrose (R., L., 
& A. 41/2, B. IV2, I>. 4 fr.). The Platte, a crumbling and 
'shining plateau* of slate-rock , is a few hundred paces from the 
hotel. The finest view is obtained from a bend in the path , a few 
paces before the Platte is reached. The traveller should not omit to 
visit the Iselten'Alp, 1/4 ^r. to the N.E., a pasture which supports 
a herd of 600 cattle, with their pleasant tinkling bells. 

In order to enjoy a complete panorama, we skirt the left side of the 
perpendicular Oummihorn (6893') 1 to the N.W. of the hotel, and ascend 
the (20 min.) *Daube (6772% whence the survey of the lakes towards the 
N. is particularly fine. To the S. we enjoy a magnificent view of the 
Bernese Alps: from left to right, the Wellborn , Wetterhorner, Bergli- 

Baxdskbb, Switzerland. 12 th Edition. 10 



146 Route 44. INTERLAKEN. AbendJberg, 

stock, Upper Grindelwald Olacier, Schreckbomer , Lauteraarhorner, 
Lower Grindelwald Glacier, the Finsteraarhorn peeping over the Eiger- 
grat, the Fiescherhomer, Eiger, Monch, Jungfrau, £bne->Fluh, Mittaghom, 
Grosshom, Breithom, Tsohingelhorn, Tschingelgrat, Gspaltenhom, Weisse 
Frau, Doldenhorn, and numerous nearer peaks; far below is the Staubbach 
in the valley of Lauterbrunnen. Towards evening the lakes of Keuchatel 
and Bienne are seen glittering in the distance. — Descent from the Platte 
by Oiindliichwand to Zweililtachtnen, 2V2-3 hrs., steep at places. At the 
small pond near the Platte to the right we descend across meadows to 
the (3/4 hr.) lower chalets of the Iselten-Alp (5116'; guide to this point 
2 fr.); thence through wood, no mistake being possible farther on. 

Fboh the Scheinige Platte to the Fauluobm (4 hrs; guide un- 
necessary). The bridle-path, commanding splendid views, leads to the Iselten-' 
Alp and on the S. slopes of the Laucherhom (8333') to the (1 hr.) ridge 
bounding the BdgUthal on the S. We then descend slightly to the C/4 hr.) 
BdgitihalBee^ with its chalet (6258'), skirt its N. and E. banks, and ascend 
to the ridge between the Bchtoaibhom and the Faulhom. The top of the 
latter, 2445' above the lake, is gained in 2 hrs. more (see p. 158). 

The Habkemthal, between the Harder and 8i. Beatenberg, may 

also be explored. Road to the Tillage of (5 M.) Habk^rn (3500' ; 

Inn); one-horse carr. 15, two-horse 25 fr. 

Three line points of view may be visited hence. The ^Gemmeiialp- 
horn (6773') is reached by crossing the Brandlisegg^ or by following the 
Bijklhach^ in 4 hrs. (or better from the Amnisbiihel, p. 145). The Hohgant 
(TU') is ascended in 4 hrs. via Bohl (^902') and the Sagletschalp^ or by 
the Alp BOsdlgau and through the Karrholen. To the S.W. of the Hoh* 
gant is the Oriinenberg (6095'), a pass between Mabkern and Sehangnau in 
tl^ Emmenthal (6 hrs.). The Augstmatthom (Suggithurm^ 6844' *, SV2 hrs.) 
is ascended via the Bodmi-Alp. 

The ^Ahendberg is reached from Interlaken by a bridle-path in 
1 hrs. (horse 10 fr.), turning to the right in the Wagnerenschlucht 

143), and passing mostly through wood. The *H6tel Bellevue 
737' ; pens. 5y2-7 fr.) commands a splendid Tlew of the valley of 
Lauterbrunnen (Jungfrau, Monch, Eiger, Schreckhorn) and of the 
Lake of Brienz. Fine survey of the Lake of Thun from the Siebenuhr- 
tarhrte, 10 min. above the hotel. 

A foot-path leads past the different peaks of the Abendberg to the 
(3 hrs.) Bothenegg (6282*; shortest way from the hotel, 2 hrs.). The next 
peaks of the range are the Fachsegg (63460, the Groste SehiffU (6674'), the 
Kleine Bchiffli (6586'), and finally the Morgenberghorn (7383'). The last is 
beat ascended from Saxeten, by the Tanzbodeli Pass (see p. 171). A foot- 
path leads from the Hotel Bellevue to Saxeten in 1 hr. (the upper path 
to the right in the meadow, behind the second chalet). 

The Sazetentbial, between the Abendberg and the Bellerihochst 
(6870'), is reached by the road (walking preferable to driving) 
to Mulinen and the (7 M.) village of Saxeten (3602'; Kreuz), which 
will even repay the pedestrian. About iy^'Mi. higher up are the 
falls of the Gurben and Weissbach^ and the valley is picturesquely 
closed by the Schwalmem (9137'), 

The *Sulegg (7914'i 3V2-4 hrs.), an excellent point of view, is ascended 
from Saxeten. We ascend by the (35 min.) OUrbenfall to the Untere 
Ifetalem-Alp (4806'), cross the Giirbenbach to the left, and several other 
brooks descending from the Sulegg. Beyond the (ly* li') Bellen-Alp (6204'), 
we turn to the right between the Bellenhdchsl (6870') and the Sulegg, skirt 
the £. slope of the latter, nearly as far as the Bulsalp, for V4 hr., and 
reach the top in 1 hr. more. The ascent is easier from Itenjluh (p. 147), 
7i& the Qummenalp and SuUap (872 hrs. \ guide). -^ From Saxeten over the 



% 



ZWEILUTSCHINEN. 45. Route. 147 

TanxbddeU Pass and through the Suldthal to (6 hrs.) Aetchi^ see p. 170 
(interesting; guide not indispensable). 

Interlaken may also be made the travellei's headquarters for 
many of the following excursions. 

45. From Interlaken to Lanterbmnnen. Staubbach. 7^ 

Comp. MapSy pp. 140, 164. 

8M. Diligence twice daily in l»/4 hr., fare 2fr.75c. — Cabbiaqe from 
Interlaken to Lauterbrunnen, or the reverse, with one horse 9, two horses 
16 fr.; there and hack, with 2 hrs. stay, 11 or 20fr.^ with a longer stay, 
15 or 30 fr. 5 from Interlaken to Z weilutschinen 7 or 12 fr. 

The road leads through orchards and meadows, hyMatterij where 
the road to Wilderswyl (p. 141) diverges to the right, and Osteig 
(p. 145), to (2 M.) Mulmen. To the right rises the Abendberg, with 
the ruin of Unspunnen at its base ; beyond them are the Schwalmern 
and Sulegg; to the left the Scheinige Platte. The road crosses 
the Saxetenbach, and soon enters the narrow gorge of the Liitschine, 
To the right rises the precipitous Roihenfiuk. At a spot in this defile, 
marked by an inscription on the rock (Y2M.), and named the Bosen' 
stein, a baron of Rothenfluh is said to have slain his brother. 

The valley expands, and divides into two branches near (2^4 M.) 
ZweiliLtsohinen (2132'; Bar), a village on the right bank of the 
Lutschine. The valley of the Black Liitschine to the left ascends to 
Grindelwald (p. 163 ; view of the Wetterhorn in the background); 
that of the White Lutschine leads in a straight direction to (3^4 M.) 
Lauterbrunnen. The valley of Lauterbrunnen begins at the Hunnen-' 
fluh , a rock resembling a gigantic round tower, and is bounded by 
precipitous limestone rocks, 1000-1500' in height. It derives its 
name (lauter Brunnen, 'nothing but springs') from the numerous 
streams which descend from the rocks, or from the springs which 

rise at their bases in summer. 

Interesting excursion to (1 hr.) Isenfluh (3600^ *Pens. Isenfluh, 5 fr.). 
About Vs ^' iTom Zweiliitschinen the bridle-path diverges to the right 
from the Lauterbrunnen road and ascends the steep W. slope of the valley 
(shade after 3 p.m.; a second path ascends by the Sausbach opposite the 
JStmnen/luh, see above). Isenfluh commands a splendid view of the Jung- 
frau. A still finer view is obtained from the path fbom Isekfluh to Mubrem 
(31/2 hrs. ; guide necessary only for novices; from Zweiliitschinen to Miir- 
rcn 7 fr.). At the upper end of the village OA hr.) this path turns to the 
left and ascends to the (V4 hr.) Sausbach (5060'), and then more steeply 
for 26 min. to the Fldsehiealdweid (5608'). Here we turn to the left and 
proceed to the chalets of Alpligen (5792'), where we descend. The path, 
which commands a fine view of the Jungfrau and its neighbours, next 
traverses the PMsehen^Alps , crosses the Pletschbach and the J^isshach, 
joins the (IV4 hr.) Lauterbrunnen path, and reaches (36 min.) Milrren (p. 
149). — Ascent of the *SuUgg (7914'), 3V2 hrs., see p. 147. 

To Wenoen and the Pens. Silberhom (p. 163) a path ascends in s/4 hr. 
from the LochmUhH on the Lauterbrunnen road, 21/4 M. from Zweiliitschinen, 
crossing the bridge to the left (pleasanter and shorter than the steep path 
from Lauterbrunnen). 

8 M. Lauterbmnnon (2615'; *8teinhock, R., L., &A. 4, B. IV2, 
D. 4 fr.; *H6tel Stauhhach, with view of the Staubbach, R., L., & 
A. 3-4 fr. D. 4, fr. ; guides; Christ., Joh, TJlHch, and PeUr 

10* 



148 Route 45. LAUTERBRUNNEN. 

Lauener, Friedr. v. Allmenj Friedr. Oraf, father and son, Friedr. 
FuckSy Joh. Oertschy etc.), a pretty, scattered village, lies on both 
banks of the Lutschine, in a rocky valley ^2 ^- broad, into which 
in July the sun's rays do not penetrate before 7 a.m., and in winter 
not till noon. The snow-mountain to the left, rising above the lower 
mountains, is the Jungfrau ; to the right is the Breithorn. Carved 
wood good and cheap here. 

From the rocky heights in the environs are precipitated some 
twenty brooks, the best known of which is the *StaiLbbaoh (*du8t- 
brook'), 5 min. to the S. of the H6tel Staubbach. This brook, which 
is never of great volume , and in dry summers is disappointing, 
descends from a projecting rock in a single fall of 980', the greater 
part of it, before it reaches the ground, being converted into spray, 
which bedews the meadows and trees far and near. In the morning, 
in sunshine, it resembles a transparent, silvery veil, wafted to and 
fro by the breeze, and frequently tinted with rainbow hues. By 
moonlight also it presents a beautiful appearance. The best point 
of view is in a meadow in front of the fall, to the left of a seat in- 
dicated by a flag (20 c). 

Beantiful walk (1V2 hr. there and back) to the fall of the ^Tnimmel- 
bach. We follow the Stechelberg road (p. 161) on the right bank of the 
Liltschine for VJu M. to the Trummelbach bridge, and diverge to the left, 
either on this side of the bridge, or 2 min. beyond it, to the (5 min.) en- 
trance of a narrow gorge (rendered accesBlble by steps and railings on both 
sides ; adm. 50 c), where the copious stream, fed by the glaciers of the 
Jungfran, is precipitated into a round water-worn cauldron. During 
sunshine three rainbows are formed in the spray, one above, another op- 
posite, and the third below the spectator, a beautiful scene. 

46. Upper Valley of Laaterbmnnen. Murren. Fall 

of the Schmadribach. 

Comp, Map, p. 154. 

Bridle-path from Lauterbrunnen to Miirren 2V2i Trachsellauenen 2, 
the Schmadri Fall and back 2, Lauterbrunnen 2V2 hrs. — Horse 12 fr.; to 
Miirren, Trachsellauenen, and back 15 fr. ; porter from Lauterbrunnen to 
Miirren 6 fr. \ chair, for each bearer (4 required), 6 fr. \ sledge (rough) 
for 2 pers. from the Pletschbach inn to Lauterbrunnen 5 fr. 

One of the finest excursions from Lauterbrunnen is to MOrren and the 
Fall of the Schmadribach. The walk takes a whole day, and is fatiguing 
if extended to the Upper Steinberg (in which case a boy should be en- 
gaged at Trachsellauenen as a guide). If not extended beyond Miirren, which 
is the chief point of interest, the excursion may easily be accomplished, 
returning by Stechelberg, in 6 hours. To Miirren, GKmmelwald, and Stechel- 
berg a bridle-path, thence to Lauterbrunnen (dVs M.) a carriage-road. As 
the view from Miirren is finest by evening light, it is preferable to go first 
to the Schmadribach, and thence to Miirren, and spend the night there. (The 
path is in shade early in the morning and towards evening.) 

The path from Lauterbrunnen to (21/2 hrs.) Miirren, which is 
very muddy after rain, ascends rapidly to the right about 200 paces 
from the Steinbeck Hotel, trends to the right, and crosses the Gf«t/(sn- 
bach twice. Beyond the second bridge (20 min.) it ascends through 
wood, crosses the FluhbachUy the (20 min.) Lauibach (fine water- 



tHi), and the HetTtribdeUi, and 
reaches (25 min.] the bridge over 
the small PUlaehbach, or Staub- 
bach (1037'; Ion). In 5 min. 
more, where the wood has been 
much thinned, we ohtain a beaiiti- 
fal view of the Jnngfrau, MBnch, 
and Eiger, which remain in sight 
for the rest of the way. Farther 
np. by(i/2hcO«8aw-mill(4923'), 
we cross two branches of the Spita- 
baeh, and in '2b min. more teach 
the tap of the hill. 

AttbiipolDlamagniflcent'-ViEW 
1 ompbitheBtre ormouDlains and 



Blader, 
Elgeri 

BilherboFD.tliefa; 



SDddenlT r 



dthfM 



neb , lbs JnngCrai 



Wen goniolp, allhoughtheviowlhEnce 

The path, now level, leads a- 
crois pastures In l/j hi. more to the 
Alpine Tillage of Mftrr«i{53i8'i 
'Orand B6t. ^ Kurhaua jKiirren, 
R.,L., 4 A. 5-6, B. 1% lonch 
3, D. 5, pens, in July and Aug. 
9-U, atotherUmea8-13fr. ; "Gr. 
Bfit. dea Alpa, similar charges; 
Ehp. Ch. Sero.), where the Wet- 
terhorn also becomes visible to 
the left, and the SeAnen-Furgge 
to the extreme light (p. 101]. 

A mors eitcnsive view i> obtai- 
ned trgm Ibe JiJ>n™d*BHI(eS58S '/' 






villiae, and from tl 
igg&m'i 'h br.J. 



rbe path 



e hill to tbe left. 



150 Boute46, TBAGHSELLAUENEN. Lauterbrunnen 

The *8chilthoni (9748'; 3Vs4 hrs., guide 7 fr.) is it very admirable point 
of view. The path ascends pastures to the chalets of Allmend (on the right 
is the Allmendhubel, see above), and farther up enters the dreary Bngethal, 
which ends in a rocky basin at the foot of the Schilthom (to this point, 
2V2 brs. from Hiirren, riding is practicable; horse 12 fr.). Then a steep 
ascent over snow, loose stones, and rock, past the monument to Mrs. 
Arbuthnot, who was killed here by lightning in 1865, to the ardte be- 
tween the Kleine and Orosae Schilthom, and without difficulty to the 
(1 hr.) flattened summit. Magnificent survey of the Jungfrau, the queen of 
the Bernese Alps, and of the whole chain (including the Blilmlisalp, to 
the S.W., quite near), and of N. Switzerland (the B-igi^ Pilatus. etc.). 
Mont Blanc is not visible hence, but is seen from the arete, about 260 yds. 
to the W., a little below the summit. — The descent through the imposing 
Sefinenthal (see below), by the Sefinenalp and the Teufelabrileke (a fine 
point above Gimmelwald), is longer by IV2 hr. than the direct path, but 
far more interesting (unsuitable for ladies). A shorter way back leads 
past the Oraue Seeli and down the steep Schilt/lUhe (guide advisable), 
and afterwards through the beautiful pastures of the Schiltalp , with 
views of the Jungfrau, etc. — Another route (interesting; uide ad- 
visable) crosses the Rothe Herd and the Telli (a saddle between the Grosse 
Hundshorn and the Wild-Andrist) to the DUrrenberg Chalett in the Kien- 
thal (seep. 151.). 

From Miirren the path descends to the left; 10 mln., we 

cross the Murrenbach; 25 mln., hamlet of Oimmelwald (4547'; 

*Pens. Schilthom, plain, 5-6 fr.), on the brink of the grand Sefinen-- 

thai J which is enclosed by the precipices of the Biittlassen, the 

Gspaltenhorn, and the Tschlngelgrat. 

To the Sefinenthal, an interesting walk (as far as the Gspaltengletscher 
and back 3 hrs. ; guide unnecessary). To the W. of the Pens. Schilthom 
we cross the (5 min.) 3ehiltb€Kh<t and ascend by a beautiful path on the 
left side of the Sefinenthal (with the superb Jungfrau behind us); then 
(3/4 hr.) cross a bridge and enter a pine-wood, and lastly, in a grand 
basin, with numerous waterfalls, traverse stony debris to the (^4 hr.) 
Otpaltenhorn (or Kirchspalt) OlcKier, at the foot of the Gspaltenhom. Back 
by the same route. 

We next (74 hr.) cross the Sefinen-Lutschine, and ascend a 

little, then descend. In 10 mln. more we pass a fine *Fall of the 

Seflnen - Liitschine on the left. Beyond a brook descending from 

the right, 2 mln. farther on , the path divides : the branch to the 

left descends steeply to (^4 ^'^O Steehelberg (see below); that to the 

right (finger-post) leads to (50 mln.) Traohsellaal^iien (4144'; 

Hot, Schmadribachy R. &L. 31/2, B. 1^/2^'.), a cluster of chalets on the 

left bank of the Weisse Lutschine. The path, now ill-defined, still 

following the left bank, passes (10 mln.) a deserted silver-foundry, 

ascends, first to the right and then to the left, ronnd. the projecting 

rocks of the Nadla and past the chalets (V2 ^r.) of the Vnter- 

Steinberg Alp (4480'), where It crosses (to the left) the Thalbach, 

Ascending the pastures on the right bank, we pass a waterfall, 

mount the Holdri, and reach (^2 hr.) the Lager-Sennhuttey in sight 

of the grand *Sohiiiadribaoh Fall. The stream must be crossed 

higher up by those who desire a nearer view, but this takes another 

hour, and hardly repays the loss of time. — From the Obere 

Steinbergalp (5794^), which Is seen high up on the pastures to 

the right (ascent I72 ^^- ^'^m Trachsellauenen ; guide desirable, 



VaUey. SBFINEN-PURGGE. 46. BouU. 151 

11/2 fr*) J *^® *View is far more imposing; the TscWngel Glacier 
lies close to us on the right, and we also obtain a good suivey of the 
Schmadri Fall. Adjoining the chalet is a little Inn, 

A pleasant walk (guide useful) may be taken from the Obere Steinberg 
to the Ttchingel Olaeier^ and across the moraine on its right side to the 
(1 hr.) beautiful blue *Oberhorn>ee (6822'), magnificently situated in the 
rocky hollow between the Tsehingel and Breithom glaciers. 

Fbox Mubkbn to the Obkbb Stsinbsko, direct (3 hrs.; guide 6 fr.)* 
About 6 min. beyond the third bridge on the way to Trachsellauenen 
(where the path to Stechelberg diverges; i hr. from Miirren, see p. 150) 
we diverge to the right, and in 20 min. again turn to the right. Passing 
(20 min.) a deserted shaft, we ascend to the right in zigsags (past a good 
spring) to (25 min.) a cattle-shed, and cross a precipitous gorge. The 
enclosure opposite marks the beginning of the Obere Steinberg-Alp. In 
40 min. more we reach the Inn (p. 150), and enjoy a superb view. Descent 
across pastures and through wood (Wilde Eck)\ then through a narrow 
ravine, stony and steep, and under two timber-slides, to (1 hr.) the chalets 
of the Unter- Steinberg (p. 150). 

From Trachsellauenen to Lauterbrunnen, 2 hours. At (25 min.) 
SicheUauenen we cross the Liltschine, which dashes wildly down its 
rocky bed ; and at the (V4 l^i-) Bridge of Stechelberg (3025' ; Inn) 
we reach the bottom of the valley and the carriage-road. Near 
(3/4M.) Matten, a fall of the Murrenbach to the left. At the (VdM.) 
Domige Briicke we keep to the right. We pass (1/2M.) a waterfall 
of the Rosenbachy and (5 min. from the road) the interesting fall of 
the *Trummelbach (p. 148). Then (1 1/2 M.) Lauterbrunnen (p. 147). 

Passes (comp. Map, p. 172). Fbom Lautbbbbunkek ov£B the Sefinen- 
FuBGQE TO THE KiBNTHAL, a patb, uot difficult, and on the whole attractive 
(10 hrs. to Reichenbach ; guide 22 fr.). From (2V2 hrs.) Miirren (p. 149) the 
path ascends over the Sehiltalp and the Wcuenegg, with beautiful view, to 
the Alp Boganggen and the (3 hrs.) Seflnen-Furege (8583'), between the 
Grosse Hundshom (9620') and the BilUlassen (10,4900. (The path by Gimmel- 
wald and through the Sefinenthal is easier, but IVa hr. longer.) Descent 
(fine view of the Wilde Frau and Bliimlisalp) to the chalets on the Diirrenberg 
(6545'; milk, etc., dear), past the SteinenUrg Alp (4856') to the (2 hrs.) Tschingel- 
Alp (3783') in theiSenttal, and by Kienthal to (2V2 hrs.) Reichenbach (p. 171). — 
From theSteinenberg-Alp overtheGamcAtWcAie tothe Tsehingelfirn^ see p. 171. 

Fbom Lautbbbbunnen to Eandebsteg oveb the Sefinen-Fubgge and 
THE Hohthubli , a long and fatiguing walk (14 hrs. •, guide necessary, 
25 fr.). The night may, if necessary, be passed at the Diirrenberg chalets 
or in the Frauenbalm Hut. Over the SeHnen-Furgge to the Kienthal y see 
above. Before the path reaches the Steinenherg Alp we descend to the 
left, cross the Poehtenbach (the discharge of the OamchigUtscher^ p. 171), 
ascend to the Bundalp^ and traverse pastures, stony slopes, and snow to 
(41/2 hrs. from the Furgge) the Hohthiirli or Diinden Pass (8875') , a de- 
pression of the Oeschinengrat between the Schwarzhom (9150') and the 
Wilde Frau (10,683') , aff"ording a superb view of the Bliimlisalp, Dolden- 
hom , etc. (To the left of the pass is the Frauenbalm Club Hut , p. 178.) 
We now descend over loose stones and the rocky ledges of the Bchafberg 
(with the BlUmlisalp Glacier quite near us on the left) to the Upper Oeschi- 
nen-Alp (6470'), and by steep steps cut in the rock, to the Lower Oeschinen- 
Aip, pass round the W. side of the Oeschinen-See (5223'), and reach (4 hrs.) 
Kandersieg (p. 172). 

•Fbom Lautebbbunnen to Kandebsteq oveb the Tschingel Pass 
(13 hrs.i 6-7 hrs. on snow and ice; guide 30 fr.), a grand and interesting 
route, fatiguing, but for tolerable mountaineers free from difficulty. A 
night had better be spent at (2 hrs.) Trachsellauenen or on the (872 hrs.) 
Upper Steinberg (see p. 151). We now follow the W. slope of the valley 
to the (3/4 hr.) Lower Tsehingel Glacier, cross it, and toil up the left la- 



152 RouU 46, . TSCHINQEL PASS. 

teral moraine to tbe (i/s hr.) base of the W. roek.8 , the ascent of which 
is very steep at first; a nearly perpendicular part, called the Tsehingeltritt^ 
is about 13' high. Farther np (,w min.) we come to turf (pleasanter; a 
halt usually made here \ superb view). Then again across debris in Vs hr. 
to the upper TacMnffelflrny an immense expanse of snow \ for 20 min. we 
follow the left moraine., and then take to the glacier, where the rope be- 
comes necessary. A gradual ascent of !*/« hr. brings us to the top of the 
Tschingel Pass (92i>7') , where a view of the mountains of the Gastern- 
thal is disclosed; behind us towers the most majestic Jungfrau with her S. 
neighbours, and to the left is the Eiger. On the right are the furrowed 
OspattenhM'n (11,276') and the QamchUUckt (92t^5' ; pass to the Kienthal, 
p. 171). An additional hour may be devoted to visiting the latter, which 
affords a striking survey of the Kienthal, the Niesen, and the Bernese 
plain. To the left of the Tschingel Pass rises the Mutthom (9978'). 
The descent across the snow is easy. (The W. arm of the glacier, bound- 
ed on the right by the rocky walls of. the Bliimlisalp and the Friinden- 
horn, and on the left by the Petersgrat, is called the Kander^m.} After 
IV4 hr. we quit the snow for the left lateral moraine. The route de- 
scends steeply, over loose stones and then over grass, to the Gastemthal, 
passing a spur which overlooks the magnificent ice-faU of the Kander 
Glacier (which has receded greatly of late). We then for a considerable 
time follow the narrow margin of a huge old moraine, which descends 
precipitously on the right to the former bed of the glacier, 170-200' below ; 
V/2 hr., bridge over the Kander; 6 min., the first chalet (coffee, milk, and 
two beds); V^^'-i Selden\ 2 hrs., Kandersteg (p. 172). 

*Frou Lautbbbrdnnen to the Lotschenthal oveb the Petbrsobat 
(from Trachsellauenen to Ried 10-11 hrs.), trying, but very grand (guide 
40 fr.). From Trachsellauenen to the (3Vs-4 hrs.) upper Tschiageljim, see 
p. 161. On the Firn we ascend to the left, between the Mutthom and 
the TscMngelhoiti^ to the (3 hrs.) "^Petersgrat (10,516'), a lofty snow-arSte 
commanding a superb view of the Alps of Valais. Then a steep descent 
over snow, rocky slopes, and turf, either through the Ausser-Fa/leV'Thal 
to the Fa/lev Alp (10 min. below the Gletscherstoffel Alp, p. 286), or 
through the Telhthal to Blatten and (3V2 hrs.) Ried (p. 176). — The Wet- 
terlticke (10,366'), between the Tschingelhom and Breithom, and theSchma- 
drijooh (10,863'), between the Breithom and Grosshom, are difficult. 

Fbom Lautebbbdnnbn to the Eggishobn over the Lauinenthor (12,000*), 
a difficult and hazardous expedition (18 hrs., the night being spent in the 
Boththal hut), through the wild Roththaly across the huge rock-arSte con- 
necting the Jungfrau (13,670') and Oletacherhom (13,064'), and down the 
Kraneberg-Fim and the Great Aletsch Olaeier to the Concordia Hut and 
the Eggishom Hotel (p. 293). — Over the Roththal-Battel (12,330*), close 
to the Jungfrau (p. 154), also very difficult and dangerous (19-20 hrs. to 
the Eggishorn). — Over the Ebnefluhjoch (12,300*), between the JSbn^uh 
and MiUaghom, very laborious, but without danger to experts (15-16 hrs.). 
— It will repay a good walker to go as far as the Roththal Qub Hut 
(8860^) in the Roththal (6 hrs. from Lauterbrunnen, crossing the Btufemtein- 
Alp)y and to return the same way (a good day's walk; guide 16 fr.). 

47. From Interlaken to Grindelwald. Wengernalp. 

Comp. Mape^ pp. 140, 164. 

Two routes lead from Interlaken to Grindelwald : the Road by Zwei- 
liitschinen and through the Lfttschenthal (I2V2 M.; Diligence twice daily 
in 3 hrs., fare 5fr.); and the ''Bbidle Path over the Wengernalp [road 
to (8 M.) Lauterbrunnen, p. 147; thence to the Wengernalp 3 (descent 2), 
Little Scheidegg 3/4 (descent \'%), Grindelwald 2V2 hrs. (ascent SVs) ; in aU 
6V4 hrs. from Lauterbrunnen, or 8-10 hrs. from Interlaken]. The latter 
route, one of the finest and most frequented in Switzerland, should cer- 
tainlv be chosen in fine weather. 

CIabbiage from Interlaken to Grindelwald, 15 fr., there and back in one 
y, one-horse 16, two-horse 30 fr., in two days 30 or 50 fr. ; to Lauterbrun- 



WENGERNALP. 47. Route, 153 

nen and Grindelwald and back in one day 20 or 35, in two days 90 ot 50 fr.; 
to Grindelwald via Lauterbrnnnen and the Wengemalp, the horses being 
ridden by the travellers over the latter, for one day 20 or 40 fr., for two 
days 28 or 65 fr. ^ 6 or 12 fr. extra for conveying the carriage from 
Lauterbrnnnen to Grindelwald (3 or 6 fr. in the reverse direction) •, to 
Lauterbrnnnen, Murren, the Wengernalp, and Grindelwald and back in 
three days, 45 or 80 fr., transport of carr. as above. 

HossE from Lauterbrnnnen over the Wengemalp to Grindelwald (or 
the reverse) 20 tc. \ Wengernalp and back 12 , Little Seheidegg 14 fr. — 
The ascent may be made on horseback, either from Lauterbrunnen or 
Grindelwald, but in descending the traveller should dismount at the steep 
and stony declivity near Grindelwald, as well as at the last precipitous 
descent into the valley of Lauterbrunnep. Sledge from Wengen to Lauter- 
brunnen 3 fr. (enquire at the hotels). A shorter route ascends from the 
Lochmiihle (near ZweilUtschineUf p. 147) to Wengen. Guide (11 fr.) un- 
necessary. Chaises-^porteurs at Lauterbrnnnen and Grindelwald. The in- 
terested advice of guides and drivers as to hotels should be disregarded. 

i. Tbe Road fhom Intbblasen to Gbindel^ald crosses the 
Wdsse Liitschine at (4^/4 M.) Zweilutachinen (p. 147), and then 
the Sehwarze Lutschine at Gundliachwand, and gradually ascends 
the picturesque, well-wooded Lutsohenthal, enlivened with numer- 
ous farm-houses. It then (3 M.) crosses the river four times 
within a short distance, and ascends more rapidly (fine retrospec- 
tive view) to (IV2 M.) Burglauentn (2995'). The fall of the FalU 
bach, on the right, is insignlflcant in summer. About 1 M. farther, 
beyond a narrow part of the valley, opens the Grindelwaldthal, en- 
closed by imposing mountains (Eiger, Mettenberg, Schreckhorn, 
and Wetterhorn). On the right are the grassy and wooded slopes 
of the Mannlichen, with the inn on the saddle to the left (p. 157). 
Then (21/4 M.) Grindelwald. 

ii. Feom Lauterbrunnen to Grindelwald over the Wen- 
gernalp. We cross the Lutachine by the Staubbach Hotel, turn to 
the left, and after 3 min. ascend to the right. After a steep ascent 
of 3/4 hr. we reach a projecting rock with a pavilion which affords 
a beautiful view of the Lauterbrunnen Thai. (Adjacent is the small 
Hdt.'Pens, Silberhorn, R. 1-2, pens. 4-6 fr. ; direct route to it from the 
Lochmiihle, see p. 147.) Farther up, where (20 min.) a flnger-post 
shows the way to the right to the (1/4 hr.) *P€n8, Wengen (5-5^2 fr.), 
we turn to the left to the (8 min.') Hdt.'- Pens, Mittaghom (5-5^2 frO» 
and next reach the (5 min.) *Pens, Alpenrose (5-572 &•) > ^^^ * 
new school adjacent. We then ascend the shady pastures of the vill- 
age of Wengen f straight towards the precipitous Tschuggen (p. 155), 
at the base of which (1/2 hr.; auberge) the path turns to the right; 
it then passes a second auberge (famous echo) , skirts the slopes of 
the Lauberhom, and enters a pine-wood (marshy at places). On 
quitting the wood (40 min.) we avoid the broad path in a straight 
direction (which leads to the Mettlenalp, see below), and ascend to 
the left, rapidly at first , over the pastures of the ^Wengemalp to 
the (3/4 hr.) *H6teiJungfrau (6184'; R., L., & A. 4-5, B. 2, D. 
4 fr., telephone to the Seheidegg; carved wood by A. Zurfliih). 
Travellers from Lauterbrunnen and Grindelwald generally halt here, 



These lerribls 
n of vut mnain 
1 which, as tlie 



) an opportunitj 



' I falling nasjes, the spectacle can hardly be called imposing. The uppar- 

, ■ ton^o*?^"' "^bTe 'gf M^epiig away "hole toreats and viH^eM, 'but 

I : fortunately aesceodtne into the uninhabited TrUvUelen- THal, > deep gorge 

' I 1 IWs ■Tut it has since heen undertaken frequently, and though eilremel- 

l| ' titigufng, is unattended with danger to eipertj (guides 80fr. each; wil 

w1jd™is much faciliUted "by eponding a night in the MUnchhiiU' 
I 6>/^■^ hrB. (mm GrindelwaWi thence O'er the Jfancfi^MA and 

fraallm to the BalMhal-BatUl (p. 155) 4-4'/i brs., and to Ibe top 
J I 'jaoK. (Tmellefa sscendlne from the Beeiahom Hotel epend tli 

lllj , the CMardiahmii on the Faulberg. MIT, 6 ^^^f'"" '^-^ »'"*«U Ihenee 

ll : ' SofW i," di"!cii? a"d hiii'srdo''u"'' iS IS^ribe Jung™ was ^wcended by s 

[I ' new ro>i« from theitolM*ol Clul.-M^AB2h leaving thaRolhth^^t" 'he^rtgW 

*i''Th"aLlb«h°n (RIKO w"^L"e£ded' fSr"^e flrll lime jn^863? by 

Ed V FillevttTa and A"ofl Batditer (from the Weogem-acbeidegg by tht 

m^r, ftwiK, and ffk..fn G/atier., In IS'/i br. i difnoult and IrjriBg. 
I'he IteWlenalp (5680'), on Ihe K. nde rf the Trumleten- Thai, afso af 

tordaanoblesurveyoftheJunefrau. F ■>.. i"in"»ii™ n.>h..,oii. iu„ 

fromLanUrhronnen md V. br. from the 

the Alp in a Btrafebt direction In '/i h 

fu'v^'br'^TwJk rouad''th?he^ o^t the Trunue.e. 

Biglenalp and Ibe Knilmtan Oladir, »*""t, "''" . 

aagfi Olader has formed > line ice-grotto, rrom me uigienal 

'"'TXlMo'''th6*auMihatt. (7972-), at the N.W. base of the Mi 
iwBRn (he Siatr and «««■ aiaaen . U recommended to good 
wirste'-^Ads^OM h"r'Um the Wenge™-ap " '^« Jl^-e 8, 
.■ilb guide). The passage of tho erevassed E.ger Glacier, which 



- —end to tb 
en -Thai 1 



to Qrindnlwald. LITTLE SCHEIDEGG. 47. Route. 155 

vanced considerably of late years , and forms a beautifol archway of ice 
with a lofty waterfall at its lower end, takes IV2-2 hrs. (step-cutting being 
necessary from the middle onwards) ; then a steep climb of IV2 hr. over 
rock, debris, and patches of snow to the Club Hut, grandly situated. 
Steep descent over the ridges of rock below the Guggi Glacier to the 
(iV2 br.) upper end of the Bandlauinentoand , and a somewhat difficult 
clamber down this slope to the Biglenalp (p. 154). 

A gradual ascent of 35 min. from the Jnngfran Hotel btings ufi 
to the summit of the pass, called the Little Scheidegg) Lauterbrun- 
nen-Seheideggy or Wengem-Seheidegg (6788'; *H6tel Bellevue^ dear ; 
wood-carver Jean Zurfluh). This ridge, which descends abruptly 
on both sides, affords a striking view of the valley of Grindelwald, 
bounded on the N. by the mountains which separate it from the 
Lake of Brienz (to the extreme left is the blunt cone of the Faul- 
horn with its inn), and on the S. by the giants of the Oberland, the 
Mimch (13,4650, ^i^^** (^3,042'), and Schreckhorn (13,386'). The 
Fin8teraarhom(jp. 169). the highest of the Bernese Alps, is not visible. 

The *Laaberhom (81!2(y), a peak rising from the ridge which runs to 
the IS. from the Scheidegg to the Hannlichen , may be ascended in 1 hr., 
or from the Wengemalp in IV2 hr. (descent 1 hr.). This ascent is chiefly 
recommended to those who have not visited the Faulhom. View extensive 
and imposing. Travellers from Grindelwald add only iVa hr. to their walk 
by taking the route from the Scheidegg to the Hotel Jungfrau over the Lau- 
berhom. Guide hardly necessary. — The Tschuggen (8278'; ascent more 
fatiguing), which rises to the N. of the Lauberhom, commands a more ex- 
tensive, but less picturesque view. — Or the traveller may walk from the 
Scheidegg along the £. slope of the Tschuggen to the (2V2-3 hrs.) *'Mftnn- 
lichen Oiidi% the X. summit of this ridge (p. 167). In this case the walk 
from Lauterbrunnen to Grindelwald will take 9-10 hrs. The Hannlichen 
may also be ascended (with guide; steep but not difficult) direct from 
Wengen, in which case the way is not longer than over the Wengemalp 
to Grindelwald. — The Fallbodenhubel (7136'), reached in Vs hr. by as- 
cending the pastures to the S. of the Scheidegg, affords a fine survey of 
the Eiger and Guggi Glaciers. — To the Ouggi Club Hui^ see p. 154. 

The descent to Grindelwald traverses stony slopes, poor pastures, 
and sparse wood, passing the (1/4 hr.) Chalets of Mettlen (6250') 
and (3/4 hr.) those of Alpiglen (5287'; •H6t. des Alpes), on a com-r 
manding terrace. (The direct path hence 'to the Eismeer' is inter- 
esting and repaying, but should be attempted only by experts with 
guides, ice-axes, and ropes.) Below Alpiglen (8/4 hr.), we leave 
the bridle-path, which leads straight into a hollow, descend t)y the 
path to the left, through enclosed meadows with scattered cottages 
to the (20 min.) bridge over the Liitschiney and then gradually 
ascend in 20 min. more to the high-road. (Travellers from Grindel- 
wald to the Wengemalp ascend to the right at the bridge.) 

From the Little Scheidegg to Grindelwald a Footpath, pleasanter than 
the above route, skirts the left bank of the Wergisthalbach , commanding 
fine views, and leading for 1 hr. through pine-forest. Guide advisable. 

Grindelwald. — *BiR, at the W. end of the village, R., L., <fe A. 41/2-5, 
B. 172, D. 4, pens. 10 fr.^ *Schwabzbr Adleb , at the £. end, with a 
pleasant garden, similar charges *, Hot. Eiger, in the middle of the village, 
same charges: Hot. du Glacier, outside the village, near the W. end, B. 
from 2'/2, B. IV2, I>-4, A. 1, pens. 8 fr.5 *H6t.-Pens. Burgener, moderate, 
E. 2, B. IV4 fr. s *HdT.-PBN8. Alpenruhe, R. IV2, pens. 8fr. 5 'Pension Schon- 
EGG, by the post-office, with garden, pens. SVzfr. — Guides: Petei- iSchlegely 
Christian and Ulrich Aimer, Peter Baumann ('am Guggen'), Chr. Bohren, 



IbQ Routed?. GRINDELWALD. Upper OlacUr, 

Riid. Kaufmann (two of the name), Peter and Ulr. Kanfinawn^ Chr. Jo*$%^ 
and many others. — Fees mentioned in the description of each excursion. 

Orindelwald (3468'; pop. 3089), properly Oydisdorf, a large 
village of widely scattered houses, is an excellent starting-point for 
mountain excursions, and also a favourite summer resort, the situa- 
tion being sheltered and healthful. 

This place chiefly owes its repute to its two Olaoiers ; but these 
are very inferior to the Rhone Glacier and many others in Switzer- 
land. Three gigantic mountains bound the valley on the S., the 
-^ Eiger (13,042'}Athe Me^&rtherg (10,197'), which forms the base of 
the Schreckhom, and the WeWer/wm (12,160'), Between these lie 
the two glaciers, which form the source of the Black LutscKine. 
y To visit the *Upper Glacier (4330' at the base) we follow the 
Great Scheidegg path (p. 160) as far as the (1 hr.) HdtelWetterhom 
(p. 160 ; horse there and back 8fr.), near which we pass a memor- 
ial to Dr. A. HaUer of Burgdorf and two guides, who perished on 
the Lauteraar glaciers in 1880. Here we diverge to the right, cross 
the Liitschine and the moraine, skirt the rock to the right, and in 
10 min. reach the artificially hewn Ice Grotto (adm. 1/2 fr.). 

Another way back to Grindelwald (guide not indispensable) is by a 
path diverging before the bridge over the Liitschine, and ascending the 
left moraine to the Chalet Milchbach (aubei^e; visible from below, also 
reached by a direct but rather giddy path from the grotto), which af- 
fords a good view of the ice-fall. The path then enters the wood to the 
right, where it is ill-defined, passing between the Mettenberg and the wooded 
^Hals\ and then, becoming well marked, descends on the left bank of the 
Liitschine and across the Sulz to (IV4 hr.) Grindelwald. — From the Cha- 
let Milchbach we may, by means of ladders (not recommended to novices ; 
guide necessary), ascend several rocks on the N.E. slope of the Metten- 
berg, pass through the Mileltbeiehloch and a natural tunnel formed by an 
old glacier-stream (sometimes barred by the ice), and reach the glacier 
opposite the Schlupf. We may return by the same route; or we may cross 
the glacier and the Enge at the liT.W. angle of the Wetterhorn, and reach 
the Great Scheidegg or regain the Hotel Wetterhorn by a dizzy path 
(2V2-3 hrs. in all). 

The^Eiiboden (4400*), a beautiful, shady pasture, 10 min. E. of the Hdt. 
Wetterhorn, and close to the base of the Wetterhorn. affords a noble 
survey of the glacier, Mettenberg, Schreckhorner, and Grindelwald Valley. 

To the Lower Glacier (3543' at the base), which is much larger 
than the upper, a bridle-path descends to the right by the church 
and crosses the Liitschine, and then ascends to the right through 
underwood and over d^ris. (The path to the left leads to the Bar- 
egg; see below.) The retrogression of the glacier has exposed to 
view an interesting Qorge of the LutschinCj which has been rendered 
accessible by means of wooden galleries and steps (Y2 ^f* ^^om 
Grindelwald ; 1/2 ^'O- A. bridle-path ascends the left lateral mo- 
raine to the (72 hr. j upper part of the glacier, where there is an 
artificial Ice Orotto (50 c). Interesting excursion thence across the 
crevassed glacier to the Baregg (guides with rope and ice-axe ne- 
cessary). In years when ice is scarce, this glacier serves as an ice- 
luarry, the blocks being carried away on sledges and by a tramway. 



Excursions. GBINDELWALD. 47. Route. 157 

— In returning from the gorge of the Lutschine we may follow the 
tramway and cross the lower hridge at the W. end of the village. 

A visit to the lower ^Eismeer (^sea of ice'), the large basin of 
n^v<f in which the glacier accumulates before it descends to the 
valley, is interesting. A narrow, and towards the end rough and 
difficult path (guide necessary for the inexperienced ; to Baregg 7, 
Zasenberg 10 fr. ; horse to a point ^2 ^r* below Baregg 10 fr., not 
advisable) ascends the slope to the left to the (2 hrs.) small Inn 
on the Baregg (5412'), commanding a fine survey of the glacier, to 
which a steep Aight of steps descends. (Fee of 1 fr. for the use 
of the wretched path, whether the glacier itself is visited or not.) 

Glacieb Expedition. The following eaay walk will make the trav- 
eller more familiar with this icy region. We cross (1 hr., with guide) the 
Bismeer to the stone chalet of Zllsenberg (6050'), surrounded by pastures, 
and occupied by shepherds in summer. Vegetation soon disappears. On 
every side tower huge and wild masses of ice, and the view is bounded 
by the imposing summits of the Eiger, Schreckhdmer, Fiescherhorner, etc. 
If the traveller does not go beyond the middle of the Eismeer (sufficiently 
far), the whole excursion may easily be accomplished from Grindelwald 
and back in 5 hrs. — The ascent of the '^ Zd»ef^erghom (7687'; magnificent 
survey of the glaciers) takes Vh hr. from the Zasenberg (guide 12 fr.). 

— The Eigerhiihle, a grotto visible from the Zasenberg (2 hrs.; fatiguing; 
with guide) may also be visited. — Lastly, an interesting trip may be 
made from the Baregg to the Zasenberffhom^ Fie»cherjim, and Exgerhdhle^ 
and back by the Kalli (p. 158; 5-6 hrs.. or from Grindelwald 10 hrs.). 

The ^Kftnnliehen (7694') is ascended from Grindelwald without diffi- 
culty in 4 hrs. (horse 15 fr. ; guide 10 fr., unnecessary). Our path diverges 
to the right from the Little Scheidegg path, after the Lutschine is crossed, 
and ascends by the JtramerirAlp. Admirable panorama, from the Uri- 
Bothstock and Titlis to the Bliimlisalp. About 20 min. beiow the summit, 
on the depression between the Hannlichen and Tschuggen (p. 153). is the 
small E6tel Grindelwald - Rigi (R. & A. 41/2, B. 2, D. 41/2 fr.; 7190'). — 
From the Little Scheidegg (p. 155) we may ascend the Mannlichen by 
skirting the E. slope of the Tschuggen (2V2-3 hr.; with guide). From 
Wengen (p. 153) a steep path ascends in 2V2 hrs. 

The "Mettenherg (Mittelbtrg^ 10,1970 is recommended to mountaineers 
(laborious, 6 hrs. ; guide 25 fr., from Baregg 12 fr.). Host imposing view of 
the Schreckhom, rising in the immediate vicinity, and of the Finsteraarhom; 
also a striking survey of the Eismeer and the valley of Grindelwald. 

Ascent of the Jung/rau^ p. 154; Fiiuteraarhorn , p. 169; Wetterhoith^ 
p. 160. — Gross-Bohreckhorn (13,886'; from the SchuMxrzegghUtts 7-8 hrs.; 
guide 100 fr.), ascended for the first time by Mr. Leslie Stephen in 1861, 
very difficult. — H5nch (13,465'; first scaled by Dr. Forges of Vienna in 
1857), ascended either from the MdnchMtte by the MSnchjoch (p. 153), 
or from the OvggihUUe (p. 155) by the Ouggi Olcteier and the Jung/rau- 
joch in 8 9 hrs. (guide 80 fr.). — Eiger (13,042'; first ascended by Mr. Ch. 
Barrington in 1858), from the Wengemalp by the Eiger Glacier and up 
the W. arSte, 9-10 hrs. (guide 70 fr.). All these are for thorough adepts only. 

Passes. To thb Gbimsbl Hospicb over the ^Strahlegg (10,994'; 14 hrs.; 
two guides, 40 fr. each), a grand, but toilsome route. The night is passed 
at the B&regg (see above), or better in the Schtoarzegg-Butte (82CI0') by 
the upper Eismeer, 5 hrs. from Grindelwald. Thence a steep ascent over 
ice and rock to the (3 hrs.) pass, lying between the Gross-Lauteraarhom 
and the Strahlegghomer ; descent over i\L& Strtihltggfm and ila^ Finsteraar 
and Uhteraar Olaeiers to the (3 hrs.) Pavilion Dollfus (p. 169) , and the 
(3 hrs.) Orinuel Hoipice (p. 168). In the reverse direction (especially if a 
night be spent in the Pav. Dollfus) the route is less trying and mure in- 
teresting. — Finsteraarjoch (11,024'; 15-16 hrs.; guides 40 fr. each), between 
the Strahlegghomer and the Agassizhom, very trying, with splendid views 



158 Route 48, FAULHORN. 

of the Finsteraarborn, etc. — Lauteraar-Sattel (10,364'; 16-17 hrs.; guides 
40 fr. each), between the Schreckhomer and the Berglistock, a fatiguing 
pass, but without serious difficulty to proficienta. The night is spent in * 

the Wetterhom^HiUte (p. 160); thence we ascend the Ober« OrindeltBald- 
Firn in 5-6 hrs. to the pass , which affords a grand survey of the Gross- 
Schreckhom, Lauteraarhom, etc. ; we then descend a steep rocky slope to 
the Laitteraarftm (crossing a wide *Bergschmnd' or chasm) and the (3 hrs.) 
Pav. Dollfns (p. 169). — Over the BtrglirJoch to the Urbachthal, see p. 166. 
Passes fboh Gbindelwald to thb Eooisbosn (p. 293), for experts 
only, with able guides. The Jungfraujoch (11,(^9'; guides 60 fr. each), 
between the Jungfrau and Monch , leading from the Wengemalp to the 
Eggishom Hotel in I6V2 hrs., is very difficult and trying. A night is 
spent in the OuggihiUte (p. 164) , and the Ouggi OlaHer is then ascended. 
— The passage of the Kdnchjoch (11,910^! guides 60 fr. each), 15 hrs. | 

from Grindelwald to the hotel, also very difficult, is facilitated by spend- 
ing a night in the MdnehMtte (see below), or when the journey is made in 
the reverse direction, in the ConcordiahiUte (p. 154). This is comparatively 
the easiest and finest of these glacier expeditions. From the Baregg we 
cross the lower Eismeer to the opposite moraine, and ascend the precipitous 
Kalli for 2Vs ^ns- i then cross the much crevassed Chrindelwald > Fiescher 
Glacier to the (61/8-7 hrs. from Grindelwald) MtfnehhOtte on the Bergli 
(9745'), commanding a grand though not extensive view of the Fiescher- 
wand, Schreckhomer, Wetterhom, etc. From the hut a steep climb of '^ 

2 hrs. over rock and glacier to the (2 hrs.) UnUr-M9nchJoth (11,910*), 
between the Honch and Fieschergrat; thence either to the right over the 
Ober-Mdnchjoch (11,980'), between the Mdnch and Trugberg, to the Jung- ) 

fraufim (p. 154) and down to the Oreat AleUeh Olaeier and (5-6 hrs.) Eg- 
gishom Hotel; or to the left, over the vast Etoig-Schnee/eld to the Aletsch y 
Glacier (the two routes unite at the Concordia Hui). — The Bigerjoeh ] 
(11,8740, between the Eiger and Honch, 22 hrs. from the Wengemalp to 
the Eggishom, a night being spent in the QuggihUite (see p. 154), whence V 
the Eiger Glacier is ascended, is very difficult. — The Fieadiexioch or \ 
Oohsenjoch (about 11,700"), E. of the Kleine Fieteherham^ or Och$ (12,812*), 
22 hrs. from Grindelwald to the Eggishom, is very toilsome and lacks ^ 
interest. £ 

48. The Fanlhom. I 

Comp. ifiop, p. 164. I 

Ascent of the Faulhom fronl Grindelwald 4B/4 (descent 3) hrs. ; from : 

the Faulhom to the Great Scheidegg 3 (ascent 4) hrs. ; from the Scheidegg to j 

Grindelwald 2 (ascent 3) hrs. — Ascent of the Faulhom from Interlaken by ' 

the Scheinige Platte (p. 146) 8 hrs.; to the Platte 4 hrs. (descent 2Yt), thence ^^ 

to the Faulhom 4 (descent 3) hrs. — Guide (10 fr. from Grindelwald and ! 

back ; if a night be spent at the top, 13 fr. ; or a boy for 5 fr.) unnecessary. 
Chair-earriert 6 fr. each ; if they pass the night on the top, 12 fr. (three 
generally suffice ; a bargain should be made beforehand). Horse from Grin- 
delwald and back 17 (or with one night out, 25) fr.; to the top and back 
by the Great Sclieidegg 30, with descent to Meiringen 35 fr. ; from Inter- j 

laken by the Scheinige Platte to the Faulhorn and back 35^ with descent 
by Grindelwald 45 fr. ; from Meiringen to the Faulhorn 25 fr. — Inn on ' 

the summit (bed 5 fr.). 

The ^Faulhom (8803 Q, rising between the Lake of Brienz and 

the valley of Grindelwald, and composed of black, friable, calcareous 

schist (the name being probably deriyed from faul, 'rotten'), is a 

very favourite point of view, as it commands an admirable survey , 

of the giants of the Bernese Oberland (see Panorama). To the N., 

at our feet, lies the Lake of Brienz, with its surrounding mountains, 

from the Augstmatthorn to the Rothhorn ; part of the Lake of Thun, ' 

Tith the Niesen and Stockhorn, is also visible j to the N.E. are 



A 



m 



FAULHORN. 



48. Route, t59 



parts of the Lakes of Lucerne and Zng, with Pilatus and the Bigi ; 
then the Lakes of Morat and Neuchatel. The prospect does not, 
however, embrace the hill -country of N. Switzerland, which so 
greatly enhances the beauty of the view from the Rigi. 

The Path fbom Geindblwald to the Faulhobn (43/4 hrs. pleads 
for 3/4 hr. through enclosed meadows and past detached houses. From 
the Bar Hotel we cross the road, pass a house on the right, and 
after 50 paces pass through a gate, (Those who leave the Bar by 
the yard-gate to the right should note that beyond the road they 
follow the lower path to the left.) After 5 min., to the right; 
10 min., at a cross-way, straight on; 5 min., to the right; 2 min., 
to the left past a cottage; then generally towards the E. The 
footpath soon unites with the bridle-path; 1/2 ^r., a gate, then a 
wood, which we quit in 10 min. ; V4hr., the Hertenhuhl (5157'), a 
large pasture with several chalets, in the middle of which the path 
turns sharply to the left, ascending past a little cabaret into 
(10 min.) wood; 10 min., to the right, past a small pond; 20 min., 
the path divides for persons descending (who here keep to the left) ; 
a little farther, a gate; 25 min., Waldspitz (Q200' ] H6t. -Pens. 
Alpenrose), with a splendid view. This point is near^ half- 
way, the other half is less steep. To the left (20 min.) a pi%ty fall 
of the Muhlibachj which we cross near the chalets of the^Bach- 
Alp (6496'). Good drinking-water issues abundantly from the rock, 
10 min. farther. Then a moderate ascent of ^/^ hr. to the Bachalp- 
See (7428'), in a stony basin, bounded on the left by the Rothihom 
(90520 and Simdihom (9030'), and on the right by the Ritzengrdtli 
(8282'). (By the stone hut the path diverges to the left for travel- 
lers descending to the Scheidegg, see below.) The top of thie Faul- 
horn is now in view. The path , indicated by stakes for guidance 
in fog or snow, ascends rapidly for nearly 1 hr. over crumbling slate 
and limestone. We pass another stone hut, cross the pastures at 
the foot of the peak, and reach the top by a zigzag path in ^4 ^r- 
more. The Inn (see above) lies on the S. side, 35' below the summit. 

The Path fboh Gbindblwald to the Fatilhobn by the Bvssalp is 
recommended for the retum-ronte to Grindelwald (guide necessary). Ad- 
mirable view from the '•Burg^ (7247'), which of itself merits a visit from 
Grindelwald (2V2 hrs.). 

The Path from the Faulhorn to thb Scheidego (3 hrs.) di- 
verges to the left from the Grindelwald path, near the p/4hr.) hut 
on the Bachalp-See, traverses the stony slopes of the Ritzengratlij 
where the shrill cry of the marmot is sometimes heard, and keeps 
nearly the same level for some distance ; Y2 hr., a gate between the 
Bach-Alp and the Widderfeld-Alp ; 5 min. farther, to the left, not 
down the bed of the brook; 10 min., the *First', a ridge gtf^rding 
a magnificent view of the Wetterhorn, Schreckhorn, Finsteraarhorn, 
Grindelwald-Fiescherhorner, with their glacier , the Eigef, and the 
valley of Grindelwald ; 8 min., we keep to the left and cross the 
brook; 7 min., we descend to the left over black, crumbling slate, 



<- 1' 






160 RouU49. WETTERHORN. 

and reach a gate where the Orindelalp begins. The path is now lost 
at places , bat soon becomes more distinct , the direction being 
slightly to the left of the Wetterhorn ; 1/4 hr. , a small brook is 
crossed, and the path is now well defined ; min., a brook ; 10 min., 
a natural bridge over the Bergelbach; 5 min., the Obere Orindelalp 
(6410'), with a spring; V4 ^'-j * S*te> ^^^ ^e turn to the right 
on this side of the enclosure, pass through the next gate (12 min.), 
and make for the top of a hill ; 8 min., Scheidegg Inn. 

In ascending from the Scheidegg, be careful not to turn to the left at 
the bridge over the Bergelbach; farther on, where the path ia lost on the 
pastures, again avoid turning to the left, follow a direction parallel with 
a long enclosure lying a little to the left, and make for the slope of the 
mountain, at the foot of which the path is regained. 

The view from the Faulhom is partially intercepted by the neigh- 
bouring group of the aimelihom C^COff) and the Efithihom (9052^) , rising 
between the Finsteraarhom and the Schreckhom, and, though not without 
picturesque effect, concealing part of the Alpine chain, the valley of 
Orindelwald, and the two glacier-tongues. The latter, from which the 
magnificent view is uninterrupted, is easily ascended from the Bachalp-See 
in 11/2 hr. (guide advisable). 

The view is still grander and more extensive from the *8chwanhom 
(9613'), which, with the Wildgerst (9488'), intercepts the view from the Faul- 
hom on the E. side. (The lakes of Lungem^ Samen, Alpnach, and Kiisnacht 
are visillle hence, all lying in the same line.) The ascent is made from 
the Qr^ Scheidegg by the Orindelalp and the Krinnenboden in 8>/r4 hrs.; 
or front Rosenlaui by the upper Breitenboden-Alp (6660*), to which there 
is a brvlle-path, and the little Blaue QleUcher^ in 6-6V2 hrs. ^ or from Ax- 
alp (p. 166) in 4-5 hrs. (guide 12 fr.). 

Fbom thk Scheiniob Platte to the Faulhosn, see p. 146. In descend- 
ing from the Faulhom, the path is easily found if we are shown the 
beginning of it and follow the direction indicated by heaps of stones. The 
only doubtful point is 1 hr. beyond the S&gitthal-See (p. 146), or 10 min. 
beyond the top of the ridge bounding the Sagisthal on the W. , where we 
keep to the right at the same level, instead of descending to the left. 

Ascent of the Faulhom from the Oiessbach^ 6 hrs., see p. 166. 

49. From Orindelwald to Meiringen. Baths of Bosen- 
" lani. Falls of the Eeichenbach. 

Cotnp. Map, p. 16i. 

6>/4 hrs. : From Grindelwald to the Great Scheidegg 3 (descent 2) hrs., 
from the Scheideck to Rosenlaui ls/4 (ascent 2>/2) hrs. , from Rosenlaui to 
Meiringen 2 (ascent 3) hours. Guide (unnecessary) 12 fr. \ by the Faul- 
hom and Scheideck 21 fr. ; hone 25 fr. •, from Meiringen to Rosenlaui 12, 
Scheidegg 15 fr. — Riding practicable the whole way, but the Reichen- 
bach Falls must be visited on foot. 

The path (footpath to the right, 1 min. beyond Grindelwald 
church) ascends gradually through rich pastures, passing the (1 hr.) 
*H6tel fre<(cr/iorn (path to the Upper Orindelwald Olacier,p. 156). 
In the foreground towers the magnificent and almost perpendi- 
cular ^Wetterhorn (12,150'), with its three peaks. 

Th# W. peak, the Vordere Wetterhorn or Hasli-Jungfrau (12,160'), and 
the E. peak {Rotenhom, 12,110') were first ascended in 1844, and the 
Mittelhom (12,165') the following year. The ascent has often been made 
since, and is free from serious difficulty, though requiring perseverance 
and a steady head (guides 60 fr. each). The night is spent in the Wetter- 
■>rn Hut (7695'), above the Oleeksiein (752(0) on the arete descending from 



1 



GREAT SCHEIDEGG. 49. Route, 161 

the Wetterhorn to the Upper Grindelwald Glacieir, 4V2 hrs. from Grindel- 
wald. Thence over the Krinnen-Fim and the Bditeli to the W. peak 
5-6 hrs. — Descent to the Do»»9n Hut (and Rosenlaui or Innertkirchen), 
eee pp. 161, 166. — From the Wetterhorn Hut over the Bergli-Joeh to 
the Urbaehtkca^ see p. 166. From the BergUstoek (12,000'), to the right of 
&e Berglijoch (4Vs-5 hrs. from the cluh-hut), a superb view of the Schreck- 
homer, Wetterhomer, etc. 

Avalanches descend in spring from the Wetterhorn in four 
different directions, the snow sometimes extending to the path at 
places and remaining nnmelted in summer. As travellers pass the 
(IY2 ^'O Obere Lauehbuhlhutte (5900') they are greeted with a 
blast of the Alpine horn, an instrument of bark or wood, 6-8' long, 
the not unpleasing notes of which are echoed a few seconds later by 
the precipices of the Wetterhorn. 

The (V2 ^O C^reat Scheidegg or Hasli-Scheidegg (6434'; Jnn, 
R. & L. 3Y2j ^' 3V2 ^r* j Jiorse to the Faulhorn, 4 hrs., 12 fr.), 
also called the EseUruckeny a ridge 1 M. long and only a few paces 
broad, commands a striking view towards the W. The smiling valley 
of Grindelwald, bounded on the S.W. by the pastures and woods 
of the Little Scheidegg, contrasts picturesquely with the bare pre- 
cipices of the Wetterhorn, which tower above us to a giddy height. 
To the S.W. of the Wetterhorn are the Mettenberg, Fieschergrat, 
Monch , Eiger , and lastly the Tschingelgrat , Gspaltenhorn , and 
Bliimlisalp. Towards the N. the view is intercepted by the sombre 
Schwarzhorn and other peaks of the Faulhorn chain. High up on 
the right, between the Wetterhorn and Wellborn, lies the Schwarz- 

wald Glacier J which has greatly decreased of late. 

Travellers from Meiringen who do not wish to ascend the Faulhorn 
should at least follow tiie Faulhorn path as far as (V2 hr.) the Obere Ch-in- 
deleiip (p. 159), in order to obtain a {rand view of the Schreckhorn , the 
Upper Grindelwald Giacier, and the Fieschergrat. From the Grindelalp 
the direct descent to Grindelwald (beyond the fountain follow the Faulhorn 
path for 5 min. more, then turn to left) is not longer than from the Schei- 
degg. — Sehwart^m^ see p. 160. 

Immediately below the Scheidegg we turn to the left and soon 
enter a wood. On the right are the precipices of the Wellborn, 
with the Schwarzwald Glacier. This part of the route, passing 
several chalets, is attractive and varied. We next reach (1 hr.) the 
*H6tel-Pen9ion zum SchwarzwiUdgleUcher, finely situated; then 
cross the Gemsbctch, and on the Breitenboden-Alp reach the BeieheU'- 
bach J where the path divides. The path to the left, affording 
glimpses of the Rosenlaui Glacier, follows the left bank of the Rei- 
chenbach, and leads in Y2 h^- *o the Gschwandenmad-Alp (p. 162); 
that to the right (Y4 hr. longer) crosses the Reichenbach, which 
forms a fine cascade near Rosenlaui , and leads on the right bank 
to the (20 min.) to the Bathi of Rosenlaui (4363' ; *Hot. ^ Pens. , 
R., L., & A. 33/4, pens. 8 fr. ; Alpine plants and carved wood). 

Before the Baths are reached, at the point where the forest is quitted, 
a path to the ri^t leads to the Rosenlaui Glacier, imbedded between 
the Wellhom (10,W) and the Engelhom (91330, and famed for the beauty 
and puritv of its ice. Of late years it has receded so much that an 
ascent of {1/2-2 hrs. , very rough towards the end, must be made in order 

Basdkkbb, Switzerland. 12th Edition. 11 



162 Route 49, MEIRINGEN. 

to obtain a survey of it^ but the grand rock-scenery will in itself repay 
the fatigue. 

Above Bosenlaui lies the Boaienhiltte (8856' ■, 6 hrs.), grandly situated, 
an interesting point for good mountaineers (reached also from Im-Hof 
through the Urbachthal in Shrs., see p. 166). In 1884 the hut was taken 
down, and in 18S6 rebuilt on the Obtre WeiUattel^ lower down. This is 
the starting-point for the Dossenhom (10,303'; 1 hr.), the Renfenhom (iQJTT^ 
2V2hrs.)i the ffangend-OUttckerAom iiOfiKyy ihrs.), and above all for the 
Wetterhorn (12,149' ; 4 hrs.). Descent from the Wetterhoru to the (3>^ hrs.) 
Wefterhorn Hut and (3'/2 hrs.) Grindelwald, see p. 160- — From the Dossen 
Hut we may cross the Wetterlimmi (10,443'), the Oauli Glacier^ and the 
GatUi Pau (10,260*) to the Grimsel, 10 hrs., fatiguing ; with this route the as- 
cent of the Ewigschneehorn is easily combined (p. 169). 

The path to Melringen now follows the Reichenbach. It leads 
at first through underwood , and then traverses the ^Qschwanden" 
mad' Alp ^ a beautiful pasture, enclosed by forest, a favourite resort 
of artists. (The first bridge must not be crossed.) The bare Engel- 
horner, the grand Bosenlaui Glacier between the Dossenhorn and 
the Wellhorn , and the snow-clad cone of the Wetterhorn to the 
right, together with the beautiful foreground, present a picture un- 
surpassed in Switzerland, and most striking when approached from 
Melringen. 

At the end of the Gschwandenmad-Alp, 25 min. from the Baths, 
the Reichenbach is crossed for the last time. Following the right 
bank, the path passes (1/4'hr.) a saw-mill and auberge , and soon 
descends rapidly. Pleasant view of the Hasli-Thal and the moun- 
tains surrounding the Brilnig and Susten. On the brink of the 
slope, 1 hr. from Rosenlaui, is the small inn Zur Zwirgi (3202Q. A 
path diverges here to the left to a narrow gorge of the hrawling 
Reichenbach, spanned by a wooden bridge (30 c; not worth yisit- 
ing). Farther on (5 min.) , another path , descending in steps, 
diverges to the left from the bridle-path to the ^alls of theSelchen- 
baeh. It leads at first through wood , and then to the left across a 
meadow, to a hut (adm. ^2 ^'0' ^^^ ^®^^ point for seeing the * Upper 
Fcdl with its beautiful jets. In the morning the sun shines into 
the gorge and forms innumerable rainbows. The Central Fall (Kessel' 
fall) is guarded by another hut (25c.). At the foot of the hill is 
the *H6tel Reichenbach (see below), from which a path leads to the 
(1/4 hr.) Lower FaU (illumination every evening in summer). From 
the hotel we cross the WiUigenhrucke to (V4 hr.) Melringen (2 hrs. 
from Rosenlaui). 

The falls are seen to the best advantage in the reverse direction, 
ascending to the lef( by the Hdt. R^ehenbach, and reaching the highest 
fall in s/4 hr. from Melringen. Farther on, as Rosenlaui is approached, 
the Wetterhorn and the Wellborn form a strikingly beautiful background. 

Travellers from Rosenlaui to Ik-Hof (the Grimsel, Engstlenalp, etc.), 
may, omitting the Falls of the Reichenbach and Melringen , save nearly 
an hour by following the bridle-path for 5 min. beyond the path to the 
falls, and then turning to the right by a footpath to the village of (25 min.) 
Geiss\olz (26280, hidden among fruit-trees. Here we ascend the pastures, 
and then rapidly descend the Kirchet (p. 166) to (40 min.) Im-Bof (p. 166). 

Melringen. — "^HdiEL du Sauvage (Zum Wildenmann)^ a large house 
with garden, R., L., & A. 4^2, D. 41/2 fr.-, 'Kbonk, R. & A. 2-2»/8, D. 3 fr.j 



BBIENZ. 60. Route, 163 

'^'Bab, R., L., & A. 3, Bi- 1, D. 2V3f pens. 5 fr.; "^IldT. Rsichinbach, on the 
opposite bank of the Aare, R., L., A A. 3Vsi B. 4fr. ; Pens, zum Stbin, 
moderate; Pens. Michel (brewery). — English Church Service in the Hot. 
du SauTage. — Odidbs : Melchior and Peter Anderegg^ Joh. v. Bergen Jr., 
Kaspar and Jae. Blatter^ Joh. TUnnler, Kaspar Moor., Ka^cu' Maurer^ 
Kaspar Btreich, Joh. and Andr. Jaun, Franz 6 lamer, etc. 

Meiringen (1968'; pop. 2805), the chief village of the Haslithal, 
lies on the right bank of the Aare^ In a level valley 3 M. in viridth, 
snrronnded by wooded mountains, above v^rhich rise several snowy 
peaks. The MuhUbachy Alpbach , and Dorfbach, descending from 
the Hasliberg at the back of the village, form considerable waterfalls 
(illuminated every evening in summer). They often overflow their 
banks, and cover the whole district with rocks, mud, and the slaty 
debris of the Hasliberg. In order to afford a better outlet for these 
torrents the Aare below Meiringen has been converted into a canal, 
on both sides of which there are still extensive traces of their 
devastations. 

The Ha8li-Thal (or Hasli im Weitsland) is divided by the Kirchet (p. 166) 
into tiie Untere and 06er€ Hasli. The inhabitants are generally of a slight, 
but strong and active frame, and are remarkable for their picturesque 
costume and pure dialect. According to tradition, they are of Swedish or 
Frisian descent, and the opinions of several modem Swedish savants in 
favour of this theory are recorded in a book kept at Meiringen. 

On the Hasliberg, 'A hr. to the X. of Meiringen , is the *H6t. Pens. 
Alpha^h (dV2-8 fr.), with a charming view, and 1 hr. farther (good path 
by Golderen and Wasserwendi) lies the village of Hohjluh (3443^ ^Frau 
Willy's Pension, unpretending), another fine point of view. (Hohfluh may 
also be reached direct from Meiringen by Unterjlvh in IVz hr.) From this 
point the *Bohen$follen OSiSO': splendid view) may be ascended by the 
Bal'sa'p and the Fntttpass in 4 hrs. (with guides from the H6t. Alpbach 
7fr.), or from Meiringen direct, by the MSgtsalp and the Faulenberg in 5 hrs. 

From Meiringen over the Brunig to Lucerne, see R. 36. 

50. Prom Meiringen to Interlaken. Lake of Brienz, 

Comp. Map, p. 140. 

From Meiringen to Brienz (8 M.) Dilioencs three times daily in IVs hr. 
(2 fr. 15 c. , coup^ 2 fr. 80 c); one-horse carr. 6-7 fr. \ to Interlaken 18, two- 
horse 36 fir. — From Brienz (two quays, 'Brienz Post' beside the Weissc 
Kreuz and 'Brienz Dorf beside the Bar) to Bonigen Steahboat 4 times 
daily in 1 hr. , fare 2 or 1 fr. ; luggage additional, 50c. for each box. 
From Bonigen to Interlaken Railway (comp. p. 138) in 12 min., fare 80 c. 
or 40 c. — Travellers going to a hotel at the E. end of the HSheweg may 
alight at the Zollhaus station (comp. p. 164). Through-tickets to Inter- 
laken may be obtained at Lucerne and Meiringen, and on board the steamers. 

Beyond Meiringen tbe road crosses the Aare, The beautiful 
OlUchibach and other cascades fall from the precipices on the left. 
Below (5 M.) Brienzwyler (p. 119), where the road joins the Briinig 
route, we again cross the Aare (H6tel Balmhof, moderate). The once 
fertile banks of the Lake of Brienz , which now becomes visible to 
the W., are strewn with rocks. In 1797 a mud-stream destroyed a 
great part of the villages of Schwanden and Hofstetten, which belong 
to Brienz. We next reach (3 M.) — 

8 M. Briens (pop. 2757 ; Weisaes Kreuz, with garden, the start- 
ing-point of the Briinig diligence, R., L., & A. 3, B. IV2 ^r; Bar. 

a* 



164 Route 50. LAKE OF BRIENZ. 

with garden on the lake, well spoken of; TtUj rastic), a consider- 
ahle place, consisting of the contiguons villages of Brienz, Tracht, 
and Kieriholz, 1^/4 M. in length, pleasantly situated on the Lake of 
JBrienz at the foot of the Bnenzer Otat, It is noted for its wood- 
carving, which employs abont 600 persons. (Fliick's depot, etc.). 

The Kdnzliy V* hr. above the Kreuz, and the Churchyard afford a fine 
view of the lake , the Faulhorn ^ the fall of the Oltschibach, the Bnsten- 
horuer, etc., and to the N. the falls of the Miihlbaeh (often dry in summer). 

The ^Brlenxer Eothhom (7713'; 5 hrs \ bridle-path for the first 4 hrs.} 
gnlde, 5 fr., unnecessary; horse 15-20 fr.), the highest peak of the Brienzer 
Grat, is a famous point of view. Inn, 1/4 hr. from the top , closed. The 
path ascends rapidly on the bank of the Treuhtbtich to the (2 lurs.) chalets 
of the Hausstadt (5383'; Restaur. Fluck, with a few beds); then for 1 hr. 
on the gentle slope of the Planalp^ watered by the Miihlbaeh, and lastly in 
K^t^ags to the (2 hrs.) top, on which stands the boundary-stone of the 
cantons of Bern, Lucerne, and Unterwalden. The view embraces the chain 
of the Bernese Oberland , with the Lake of Brienz in the foreground ; a 
glimpse of the Lake of Thun beyond Interlaken ; the Haslithal from Mei- 
ringen nearly to the Grimsel; on the other side the small Ey-8ee, the 
Lake of Samen, a considerable part of the Lake of Lucerne with the Rigi, 
part of the Lake of Zug, a long strip of the Lake of Neuch&tel, and even 
the Lake of Constance. — Descent by the Ey-a«9 to 89renhwg in the Kleine 
Emmenthal, and (6 hrs.) BchUpfli^im, see p. 124. 

From Brienz over the Br&nig to Lucerne^ see R. 35; one-horse carr. 
to Alpnach-Gestad 25, with two horses 40 fr. (retorn-canrfage less). 



The Lak» of Briens (1857'), 83/4M. long, and 11/4-172^- ^i^^^i 
600' deep near the Giessbach, and 859' near Oberried, lies 20' 
higher than the Lake of Thun, with which it is supposed to have 
been once united (p. 141). It is enclosed by lofty wooded rocks and 
mountains. To the S.E. in the background are the snow-clad Sus- 
tenhorner, to the right the Thierberge. The steamboat crosses the 
lake to the Oiessbach and skirts the abrupt S. bank. The lowest 
waterfall only (see below) is visible from the lake ] above it is the 
hotel, and to the right of the landing-place is the tramway station. 
Beyond the Giessbach is the small wooded Sehneeken^Inael, with its 
little chapel, and near it, on the S. bank, lies the pretty village of 
Isdltwald (i^fM. Seebucht^ with restaur, and garden). The steamer 
then crosses to Oberried and Niederried^ charmingly situated among 
fruit-trees at the foot of the Aug8tmatthom(^. 146). Farther on, to the 
N., rise the ruined castle otBinggenberg on a height, with the church 
of that name, surrounded by underwood and orchards, and the old 
tower of the Church of Ooldswyl, very picturesq^uely placed on an 
isolated hill. On the opposite bank is the influx of the Lutachinej 
which descends from the valleys of Grindelwald andLauterbrunnen. 
The lake gradually contracts to a river , which is named the Aare 
and afterwards falls into the Lake of Thun. The steamer stops at 
Bonigen (p. 141 ; Restaur. Muhlemann), the terminus of the Bodeli 
Railway (p. 138), which conveys travellers in 12min. to Interlaken. 
The station of (IS/4 M.) ZoUhaus is at the E. end of the Hoheweg. 

3 M. Interlaken, see p. 140. 

The Road fbom Bbiekz to Ikterlaken (12 H. ; one - horse carr. 
^10 fr.), on the N. bank of the lake, passes through (IV2 H.) Bbligen^ (2 M.) 



GIESSBACH. 57. Route, 165 

OberHedy and (3 M.) Niederried; then, high above the lake, it traverses a 
rocky tract to (2V2 M.) Ringgenberg, passes the small Faulensee (p. 144), at 
the base of the hill with the old church - tower , and leads by Ooldswyl 
(beautiful views) to the upper Aare bridge at (3 M.) Interlaken. 

51. The Oiessbach. 

Hotels. ^HoTEL- Pension Giessbagh, a large new building, with two 
dependances (the old hotel and the Hot. Beau-Site), R., L., A A. from 4-5 
B. Ii/s, D. 4V2^, pens. 71/2-IO fr.; also whey and water-cure. Post and 
Ttlegr<xph Office at the hotel. — Carved wood sold by C. Jfichel (formerly 
KehrU). 

'^Ulnmuiatioa of tte Falla , with Bengal lights , every evening from 
Ist June till 30th September (inmates of the hotel 1 fr. each, for the first 
evening only^ other persons IVa fr.). 

Steanboat to Sdnlgen in 50, to Brienz in 10 min., see p. 163. On 
Saturdays at 8 p.m. a train leaves Interlaken for Bonigen, in connection 
with a steamer to the Giessbach, returning after the illumination. 

Tramway (300' above the lake) from the landing-place to the 
hotel (380' long^ gradient 2872 : ICO) in 6 min. (there and back 
1 fr. ^ luggage under 50 lbs. 50 c. , over 50 lbs. 1 fr. j articles in the 
hand freej. The two cars, holding 46 passengers each, and provided with 
powerful brakes, are connected by a wire cable, running round a wheel at 
the top of the hill. The one car ascends, while the other descends, the 
gravitation of the latter, weighted with water, forming the motive power. 
The rails are 1 metre (39 in.) apart, and have a toothed rail between them 
as on the Blgi line (rack-and- pinion system). 

The *GiMsbach, one of the prettiest and most popular spots in 
the Bernese OberUnd, was first rendered accessible In 1818 by the 
scbool^master Kehtli (d. 1854). The stream, which is oopious at 
all seasons, rises on the N. slope of the 8ehwar2horn (p. 160), and 
on its way to the lake of Brienz forms a series of seven cascades 
falling from rock to rock , the highest being 1148' above the lake, 
and framed in dark green foliage. The terrace in front of the 
new hotel affords a complete view. The falls are crossed by three 
bridges. Paths ascend on both hanks to the (V4 hr.) second bridge, 
from which to the third (^2 hr.) there is a path on the right bank 
only. A wooden gallery enables visitors to pass behinjjl the second 
fall. Those who have time should ascend to X\s.q Highest Fall ^ where 
the Giessbach , issuing from a sombre ravine, is precipitated under 
the bridge into an abyss , 190' in depth. (Best view from a pro- 
jecting rock to the right of the bridge.) Above the highest bridge 
there is no attraction. About noon rainbows are formed in the falls. 

The *Ra.tjft (2460') , a group of wooded rocks on the N. side of 
the valley, rising abruptly 600' above the lake, commands a view 
of the Lake of Brienz, the mouth of the Aare , and the alluvial dis- 
trict of Brienzwyler ; opposite are the Brienzer Grat and the Biienzer 
Rothhorn (p. 164); then, beyond Interlaken, part of the Lake of 
Thun, overshadowed by the pyramid of the Niesen. A good path 
leads from the back of the new hotel to the pavilion on the top in 
20 min. ; another from the old hotel in ^4 hr. 

Pleasant walk to the Alpine hamlet of Enge, situated among beautiful 
pastures. Fine view at the point (V2 hr.) where the path reaches the 
lake. We then descend past the NUteli to the Aare Bridge and the Mei- 
ringen and Brienz road (p. 163). — About 2 hrs. above the Giessbach lie'^ 



166 BouU51. m-HOF. 

the Axalp^ a health resort with a rustic inn, whence the ScJnoarthorn 
(9610') may be ascended by the Bkwe Gletscher in 4-5 hrs. (with guide ; 
comp. p. 160). — From the Giessbach to the Binterburg-See (5000*), char- 
mingly situated in wood at the base of the OlUchikopf^ 3 hrs. 

Ascent OF the Faulhobk (p. 158)fbom the Giessbach. 6'hr8. (guide 6 fr.), 
fatiguing at places, especially on the Bctittnaip^ which is exposed to the 
morning sun. To the S. of the Schwabhom this path joins the bridle-path 
from the Scheinige Platte to the Faulhom (p. 160). 

Fbom the Giessbach to Intbblab^ek (SVsbrs.). A good path, crossing 
the first bridge over the falls, and bearing to the right (see finger-posts), 
leads to the (1/2 hr.) Hoch^uh^ a charming point of view. It then runs 
high above the lake and descends to (1 hr.) IteltwcUd, from which a road 
leads to (IV2 M.) Sengg, (3 M.) Bdnigen, and (IVz X.) InUrlaMen. 

52. From Meiringen to the Bhone Olacier. Grimsel. 

Comp. Mapy p. 104. 

10 hrs. : Im-Hof 31/2 M., Im-Boden 472 M., Guttannen '/< hr., Handegg 
2 hrs., Grimsel Hospice 2^2, summit of the Grimsel 1, Rhone Glacier 1 (in 
the reverse direction about 8^/2 hrs. in all). Road to Guttannen (one-horse 
carr. 12-15, two-horse 20 j to Im-Hof 6 or 10 fr. ; diligence to Im-Hof twice 
daily, 1 fr.)^ then a good bridle-path, guide unnecessary. Horse from Mei- 
ringen to the Handegg (and back in one day) 15, Grimsel 25, Rhone Glac- 
ier 32 , Hospenthal or Andermatt 40 fr. ; from the Rhone Glacier to the 
Grimsel 6, to the Hospice 10, Handegg 15, Meiringen 30 fr. 

Meiringen, see p. 162. The road crosses the Aare by the Willi- 
genhriieke (passing, on the right, the upper fall of the Beichenbach, 
p. 162), and ascends the Kirchet (2313'), a wooded hill, sprinkled 
with erratic blocks of granite , which divides the valley into the 
Lower and Upper Haslithal. At the top (1^4 M.) is the auberge 
^Zum Lamm\ where a finger-post indicates the path to the ^Fin- 
stere AarsckktehV to the left. 

Finstere Schlauohe. From the inn we ascend slightly to the left, and 
descend by a good path through underwood into the gorge worn by the 
Aare, which flows here between perpendicular rocks oOC high (40 min., 
there and back). A toll of Vs ^- for each person is levied at the inn. The 
excursion is, however, scarcely worth the time and trouble. 

The road descends the Kirchet in long windings (avoided by 
short-cuts), traverses the fertile basin of Hasli im Orundy and cross- 
es the Aare near (21/4 M.) Im-Hof (2054'; *H6L Hof, R. & L. 2-21/2, 
pens. 5-6 fr., carr. and horses ; Alperihof, R. 2, D. 2-3 fr. ; Restaur, 
Alpenroae"), the principal village in theparish of /nnertftircAen, where 
the Susten (p. 122 and Jochpass (p. 121) routes diverge. 

Travellers from the Grimsel on their way to Rosenlaui and Grindel- 
wald may go from Im-Hof direct, by GeUshotz, to the Upper Reichenbach 
Fall (comp. p. 162: enquire for the beginning of the path). 

The urbachthal (comp. Map, p. 104), opening here towards the S.W., 
deserves a visit. The path ascends to the (V2 nr.) narrow mouth of the 
valley, is then nearly level for 1 hr., and afterwards mounts steeply to the 
(2 hrs.) Alp Sehr&tum (4940'; beds), where the path to the Dosaenhiitte 
diverges to the right (see below), and to the (1 hr.) MattencUp (6102*), at 
the foot of the huge Oauli Olacier. In 1 hr. more we reach the Urnenalp 
(7213'; rustic quarters). Thence over the Oauli Pan (10,260*) to the Grim- 
sel , combined with the ascent of the Etngtehneehom^ 8-9 hrs., fatiguing, 
ut verv grand (see p. 169). — Over the Bergli-Joeh (11,290*) to Grindel- 
•Id, 16-17 hrs. from Im-Hof, very toilsome and hardlyrepaying. From 

Urnenalp (where we pass the night) we ascend the Oauli Oleuier to 

pass, lying between the Berglistock (p. 160) and the Roienhom^ and 



HANDEGG FALL. 



52. BouU. 167 



descend the Qrindtlwaldfim to the WetUrhorn Hut (comp. p. 161). — The 
Dossen Hut (p. 162) is reached in 4V8-5 hrs. from the Alp Sehrdttem (see 
above), by the Alps Hlmenstein, Enzen^ and Fldschen, Thence to Rosenlaui, 
ascent of the Wetlerhorn, and to Grindelwald, see p. 162. All these expe- 
ditions are for adepts only, with good guides. (At Innertkirchen, Jvh. Tdnn* 
leVf Joh. Moor^ Joh. A Melch, Thoni^ etc.) 

Beyond Im-Hof the new road is at first level, and then gradually 
ascends, on the right side of the picturesque valley, being hewn in 
the rock at places and passing through two short tunnels. Running 
high above the rapid Aare, it leads to (81/4 M.) Innere Vrweid (2464'), 
and then under overhanging rocks and through another tunnel to 
(IY4M.) /m-Bodcn (2933'), opposite the hamlet of that name on 
the left bank. The road then crosses the Aare by a new bridge and 
continues on the left bank to (^/^ hr.) Onttannen (3480^; Bar^ 
plain, R., L., & A. 272, B. U/2 fr.), the largest village in the Ober- 
haslithal, lying in a broad basin. The pastures are covered in every 
direction with heaps of stones, brought down by torrents. (Over 
the Furtwang Sattel to the Triftgletscher, see p. 122.) 

Beyond Guttannen (1/2 lir-) we cross the wild and foaming Aare 
by the Tschingelbriicke (o733'). The valley contracts, and barren 
black rocks rise on the right. Huge masses of d^ris deposited on 
the less precipitous slopes testify to the power of avalanche and 
torrent. On the right the Wisshach Glacier discharges its waters 
into the valley. Crossing the Aare by the (20 min.) Schwarzbrun- 
nenbrucke (3976'), and ascending a little, we reach (10 min.) a 
spring of good water on the right. The Aare becomes more rapid, 
and here forms a small waterfall. A pine-clad ridge of rock now 
closes the valley. The paved path ascends over granite rocks, round- 
ed and polished by glacier-friction (see below). 

From a bend in the path (35 min. from the last bridge, and 8 min. 
from the Handegg Inn) a short side-path leads to the left through a 
chalet to a platform (1/2 fr.) immediately opposite the *Handegg 
Pall, a cascade of the Aare, which descends amidst a cloud of spray 
into an abyss, 250' in depth. Grand as this spectacle is, it Is still 
finer when viewed from a point above the fall, which is reached by 
descending for 5 min. to the E. of the Handeck Inn. The approach 
Is easy and safe. The best point is a projecting rock beyond the bridge 
(adm. 1/2 ^'» 1 restaur.). Next to the falls of the Tosa (p. 296) and the 
Rhine (p. 24), this is the grandest waterfall among the Alps, owing 
to its height. Its great volume of water, and the wild surroundings. 
The stream is so rapid that it falls unbroken halfway to the bottom, 
and In its rebound it forms a dense cloud of spray, in which rain- 
bows are formed by the sunshine between 10 and 1 o'clock. The 
silvery water of the Aerlenhach falls from a height to the left into the 
same gulf, mingling halfway down with the grey glacier-water of 
the Aare. The Handegg Jnn (4649'; wood-carving by Jaun) is on 
the left bank, a few hundred paces above the fall. 

The sombre pine-forest becomes thinner, and even the dwarf- 
pines disappear a little above the Handeck. The stony soil is clothed 



168 RouU52. GRIMSEL HOSPICE. From Meiringen 

with stanted giass , moss , and rhododendrons. Abont Y2 ^^' ^^om 
the Handegg the path leads over ronnded slabs of rock , called the 
Bose Seite and the Helle or HeUe ('slippery') Platte, both worn by 
glacier-friction. Opposite them the Oelmerbaeh forms a picturesque 
fall. It descends from the Oelmeraee (SOBS') , a lake on the moun- 
tain to the left, between the Oelmerhorn and Schauhhorrij and may 
be visited from the Handegg (I74 hr. ; steep path). 

The valley becomes narrower and bleaker. The path frequently 
crosses the Aare, now a mere brook, and vegetation almost disappears. 
Between the Handeck and Grimsel the only human habitations are 
the (1 hr.) two chalets in the Raterichsboden (5594'; milk), the 
last basin below the Grimsel, and perhaps once the bed of a lake. 

The rocky, but well-trodden path ascends for a short distance 
through a wild defile, and then becomes comparatively level. It 
again crosses the Aare, turns to the left (where persons descending 
the valley must avoid the turning to the left), and reaches (1 hr.) 
the Grimsel Hospice (6148'; *Inn, R. & L. 3-4, B. IV2, D. 
41/2 fr.)) originally a refuge for poor travellers crossing the Grimsel, 
and now often crowded with tourists. The small rooms are separated 
by very thin wooden partitions. Carved wood by Hans Abplanalp. 

This desolate basin, the Grimselgrundj enclosed by bare rocks 
with occasional patches of scanty herbage or moss, lies 955' below 
the pass (p. 169). Beyond the gloomy little lake, which is destitute 
of fish , lies the Seemdttli, a meagre pasturage, where the cows of 
the Hospice graze for one or two months only. The jagged mountain 
to the W., above the ravine of the Aare, is the Agassizhorn (13,120'), 
the N. pedestal of the Finateraarhom (p. 108). The latter is visible 
from a rocky hill 150 paces to the N. 

Excursions from the Grimsel Hospice (comp. Maps, pp. 104, 154). 
The *Xleine SiedftUum (9Q75'; 3 hrs.; guide 4 fr.), is an easy and 
attractive ascent. [The Qrosse Siedelhom (9449'), an inferior point of 
view, lies farther S.W.] The path diverges to the right at the bifur- 
cation of the Rhone Glacier and Obergestelen routes. The last V^ hr. 
is fatiguing, as the top of the mountain is covered with fragments 
of granite. The view is imposing. Gigantic peaks surround us on every 
side : to the W. the Schreckhom, the Finsteraarhom, and the Fiescher- 
horner; to the N.E. the Galenstock, from which the Bhone Glacier des- 
cends; to the S. the Upper Valais chain with its numerous ice-streams, 
particularly the Gries Glacier; to the S.W., in the distance, the Alphubel, 
Mischabel, Matterhorn, Weisshorn, etc. (comp. Dili's Panorama). — Tra- 
vellers bound for Ohergettelen (p. 292) need not return from the Siedelhom 
to the Grimsel Pass, but may descend on the S.E. side of the mountain 
and there regain the bridle-path (guide advisable; comp. p. 170). 

To the Pavillon Dollfuss 3hrs. (there and back 6hrs. ; guide 10 fr.). The 
Aare is formed, to the W. of the hospice, by the discharge of two vast gla- 
ciers, the Unter-Aar and the Ober-Aar 01ad«r, which are separated by the 
ZinkentWcke. The Unter-Aar Glacier is formed by the confluence of the 
Finsteraar and Lauteraar Glaciers ^ which unite at the foot (8286') of the 
rock-arSte named */w» AbschtDung\ though for a long way below that point 
they are separated by a huge moraine, 100' high at places. At the foot of 
this argte the Swiss naturalist Bugi erected a hut in 1827, which in 1840 
'4 descended with the glacier to a distance of 1900 yds. from its original 
In 1641 and several following years the eminent Agassiz of Neu- 
1, with Besor, Vogt, Wild, and other savants , spent a considerable 



to the Rhone Glacier. FINSTERAHORN. 52. SouU, 169 

time here, dating their interesting obaervAtiona from the ^Hotel des Neu- 
chatelois\ a stone hut erected under a huge block of mica-slate projecting 
from the medial moraine. These huts have long since disappeared. M. 
Dnilfus-Ausset of Miilhausen in Alsace next erected the PaviUon Dollfna 
(7676') lower down, on the N. side of the Lauteraar Olacier, now used as 
a club-hut (comp. p. 157, and Maps, pp. 104, 154 and 292). A Tisit to this hut 
is interesting and free from hazard. A bridle-xMith leads from the hospice 
across the stony Aareboden to (1V4 hr.) the foot of the Unteraar Gbbcier 
(6160' J. Here we ascend the rock to the right by a narrow path and then 
traverse the rocks and debris of the terminal moraine. After about 40 min. 
we take to the glacier, which affords good walking, pass several fine 
^glacier-tables^, and cross the medial moraine and the Lauteraar Glacier, 
which is here often considerably erevassed. Lastly we ascend a steep 
slope to the (1 hr.) Club Hut, admirably situated on a rocky height over* 
looking the Unteraar Glaoier. Opposite rise the Zinkenstocke, TMerberg, 
ScheuchBerhorn , and Escherhom; in the background, above the Finster* 
aar Glacier, the Finsteraarhom \ and to the right of the Abschwung the 
huge Lauteraarhomer and Schreekhomer. — We may continue our walk 
on the glacier as far as C/4 hr.) the foot of the Abschwung (p. 168), 
where we enjoy a full view of the majestic Finsteraarhom. In the med- 
ial moraine adjoining the Lauteraar Glacier, nearly opposite the Pav. 
Dollfus, is a fragment of rock bearing the names of 'Stengel 1844; Otz, 
Ch. Martins 1845", inscribed there during the scientific observations above 
referred to. The rock, re-discovered in 1884, was then about 2660 yds. from 
its original site. 

The ascent of the ^Ewiffachneehom (lOjSSC; 41/4 hrs.) presents little 
difficulty to adepts. From the Pav. Dollfus across the Lauteraar Glacier 
to the foot of the mountain (8390*) IV2 hr., to the Oauligrat (10,260^ 2 hrs., 
to the top V* !»'• (comp. p. 166). 

The jnuter«arhom (14,026'), the highest of the Bernese Alps, was 
scaled for the first time in 1812 , then in 1829 and twice in 1842, and has 
pretty often been ascended since. Travellers from the Grimsel spend the 
night in the ObercKir Hut (see below). The route then ascends difficult 
rocks and ice-slopes on the E. side of the mountain (6 hrs. to the top). 
On the ascent from Grindelwald, Uhe Sehtearsegg Hut (p. 167) affords nif^t 
quarters ; thence to the top in 9-10 hrs., over the Fintteraarjoeh^ the Ago*- 
sizjoeh (12,6600, and the HugiscUtel (13,206'). If the Eggishom be the start- 
ing-point, the night is spent in the (5 hrs.) Concordia But Cp. 154), from 
which we ascend to the summit in 8 hrs. over the GrUnhomliiekt (1(),843'), 
the Walliser Fieseherfim, and the ffugitattel. The expedition is fit for 
thorough experts only, with first-rate guides. Even when the ice is in a 
favourable condition tne ascent is difficult and very trying. 

Fbom the Grimsel to Fiesch, or to the Eqgishorn (p. 298), over the 
Oberaarjoeh, 13 hrs. fatiguing, but interesting (two guides, 35 fr. each). 
We ascend the Oberaar Olaeier in about 6 hrs. to the finely situated and 
well-appointed Club Hut on the Oberaarjoch (10,624'), lying to the S. of 
the Oberaarhorn (11,953'; which experts mav scale from the hut in IV2 hr.). 
We then descend the Stttder,fim^ passing the Rothhom (11,345'; at its 8. 
base, to the right, is the Rothloch^ a cave in which travellers ascending 
the Finsteraarhom used to spend the night) ; we then toil down the right 
side of the erevassed Fiescher OUiicher to the Stoctalp (p. 293), and to the 
H6t€l Jungfrau-Eggishom (p. 293; 7 hrs. from the dub-hut). — Over the 
Oberaar- RoTHJocH (10,906'), to the S. of the Oberaarjoch, no^ difficult. 
— Over the Stdderjoch to Fiesch, 14-15 hrs., difficult. The route ascends 
the Unteraar and timtera^r Olaeierg to the Btnderjoch (11,6500, between 
the Oberaarhorn (see above) and the Studtrhorn (11,935'; a splendid point 
of view, easily at tained from the pass in */4 hr.). Descent over the Studer^ 
flm and the Fiescher Olet^cher^ as above. 

From the Grimsel over the StrahUgg and the Finsteraarjoch or Lauter- 
aarjoeh to Orindelwald, p. 167 — From the Grimsel to the Furka direct, over 
the N&geliigrmii^ p. 112 ; over the Trifllimmi to the Trifthiltte^ p. 122. 

From the Hospice the biidle-path, partly paved, and indicated 



170 Route 53. HEUSTRICH-BAD. 

by stakes, winds up the Orimsel Pass (TIGS'), connecting the Has- 
lithal with the Upper Valais. Beyond the (1 hr.) summit (Hauseck), 
the boundary between Bern and Valais, lies the small Todtensee, 

In 1799 this 4ake of the dead* was used as a burial-place by the Aos- 
trians and French. The former, with the Valaisians, had intrenched them- 
selves on the Orimsel, but were surprised by the French, whom Fahner, 
a peasant of Outtannen, had guided over the JfagelUffrdtli (p. 112), and 
were driven back into the Valais. The French presented their guide, at his 
request, with the Raterichsboden (p. 168), as a reward for his services, but 
the government of Bern cancelled the gift a few months later. 

Those who have seen the Rkotu Olaeier (p. 291) may descend direct 
from the Orimsel to (2>/4 hrs.) Obtrgettelen (p. 292) by the path diverging to 
the right before the top of the pass is reached (leaving the Todtensee to 
the left). Splendid views of the Valaisian Alps and the 8t. Gotthard group, 
and also, at the beginning of the descent, of the fall of the Rhone Glacier. 
(In the reverse direction 2>/2-3 hrs.; guide desirable in foggy weather, 
A fr.). The ascent of the Kleine Siedelhwm (p. 168) may easily be com- 
bined with this route. 

From the pass our path leads to the left, on the N. side of the 
Todtensee, and descends the Xaienwand, a steep grassy slope 1300' 
in height, carpeted with rhododendrons and other Alpine plants, in 
-view of the imposing Rhone Glacier and the Galenstock. The (1 hr .) 
Rhone Olacier Hold, see p. 291. Thence to BrUg^ see R. 80; over 
the Furka to Andermattj R. 33. 

53. From (Thun) Spiez to Leak orer the Gemmi. 

Comp. Maps, pp. 240 , 172. 

DiLiOEHCK twice daily from Spiez to (9>/8 H.) Frutigen in 2 hrs. 20 min. ; 
(2fr. 65, coup^ 3fr. 46c.); one-horse carr. 10, two-horse 18 fr.; to (19 M.) 
Kandersteg lo or 35 fr. — Fbom Thuk to the Heustrieh-Bad omnibus daily 
at 4 p.m. (21/2 fr.); carr. to Kandersteg 20 or 38 fr. 

The 0«maii is one of the grandest and most frequented of the Alpine 
passes. Road to Kandersteg (19 M. from Spiez, 23 M. from Thun) ; thence 
over the Gemmi to the Baths of Leuk (fis/^ hrs.) a good bridle>path (guide 
unnecessary); from the baths a road to the (9 M.) Leuk station. 

Thurhj see p. 135. Steamboat to Spies (*8pieter Hof)^ see 
p. 139 ; post-office near the landing-place, where carriages also are 
in waiting. The road, bordered with houses and fruit-trees, ascends 
the hills on the S. bank of the lake to Moos, where it joins the 
road from Thun, and (IV2M.) SpiezwyUr; to the S.W. rises the 
Ki€B€n (p. 133), with WimmU (p. 137) at its base, at the entrance 
to the Simmenihal (p. 181). 

The road skirts the lofty right bank of the Kander. To the left 
diverges the road to Aesehi (see below). The diligence halts at (3 M.) 
Emdthal (Inn), the station for the *Heuitrieh-Bad (2303'), on the 
opposite bank of the Kander, with saline and sulphur-baths, much 
frequented (board 372-6 f r. ; ascent of the Niesm, see p. 138). To the 
left a footpath ascends to (20 min.) Aescki (see below). The road 
crosses the Suldbach ot (V2 M.) XfLlinen (2264'; *Bar, moderate. 

From Spiez bt Aeschi to Mulinen (d'/z M. ; one-horse carr. 6, two- 
horse 10 fr.), a much more attractive route than the above. Walkers ascend 
^y a somewhat steep path in 1 hr. (or by the road 4 M.) to Aetchi (2818'^ 
fT^. ' Pens. BlUmliMlp J -penaionb-l tr.\ "Jffdf.-Pem. Niefen)^ a village on the 



FBUXIGEN. 53, Route. 171 

)ieight between the Lake of Thun and the Eanderthal, with a charming 
view of the lake, and visited as a health-resort. (The Faulenteebaoi, p. 139, 
is 1 H. to the S.E.) Descent to Emdthal or Miilinen, IVs M. — From 
Aksghi to the Sax£T£NThal , a pleasant route (TVshrs.; guide unnecess- 
ary). Road by Aerchi-Ried in the Suldtbal to the (6 M.) llntere Suldalp 
(3418'); then a bridle-path, past a fine waterfall of the Suldbach, to the 
(lV«hr.) J3chlieren-Alp (4675'); ascent to the left to the (IVa hr.) BenmgU- 
Paa» or Tamhddeli Poms (6168'), between the MorgeHberghoru and the Sehwal- 
mem; then descend by the Hinter-Bergli-Alp to (iVzhr.) Saxeten (p. 146). 
The Morgenberghorn (7383') may be ascended from the pass in IVs hr. 
(easy and attractive), or direct from Aschi via AescM'Allmendf the 8onnen~ 
lerg^ and the Sutmad-Alp in 5 hrs.. — Fsou Asschi to Inteslakbn by 
Krattige», Leisngen (Steinbock) and D&rligen (p. 140), a beautiful walk or 
drive of 8 M. 

We pass (3/4M.) Seichenbftoli (2336' 5 ^Linde), lying to the left, 
at the mouth of the Kienthal (superb view of the Bliimlisalp). 

A narrow road ascends the attractive Kienthal, affording fine views 
uf the Biittlassen, Gspaltenhorn, and Bliimlisalp, to the (4 M.) village of 
Kienthal (rustic inn) and (3V2 M.) the extensive Tsehingel Alp (3783'), 
10 min. from which is the Pochtenbach/all with the interesting ^'Hexen- 
ketsely a kind of 'glacier miir. Thence over the Sefinen-Furgge to Miir- 
ren (8-9 hrs.), and over the Hohthurli to Kandenteg ^ see p. 161. To the 
E. the valley is closed by the crevassed Gamchigletscher^ the source of the 
Pochtenhaeh. Experts with able guides will find it interesting to cross the 
Oamchilttcke (9295'), between the Bliimlisalp and the Gspaltenhorn, to 
the Tsehingelfim (p. 151). We may then either cross the Petersgrat to 
Ried in the Lotschenthal (p. 152), or the Tsehingelpass to Kandersteg 
(p. 161), or the Tsehingeltritt to Lauterbrunnen (p. 151). Distances: from 
the TschingelaJp to Steinenberg 1 hr., end of the Gamchigletscher 1^2 hr., 
Gamchiliicke 2V2) Ried 6-7, Kandersteg 6, Lauterbrunnen 4 hrs. — As- 
cents from the Kienthal: Buttlasaen (10,490'), from the Dilrrenberghtitfe 
(2V« hrs. above the Tschingelalp, see p. 151), 3V2-4 hrs., toilsome, but re- 
paying. — Chipaltenhom (11,276'), reached by the Leitergrat between the 
Biittlassen and the Gspaltenhorn, very difficult (first scaled bv Mr. Foster 
in 1869). — Wilde Fran (10,693'), from the Frauenbalm Hut (p. 173) and 
up the Bliimlisalp Olacie)\ 3 hrs. laborious. 

The road crosses the Kander, and next reaches (3^/4 M.) — 

91/2 M. Frutigen (2717'; AdUri *BeUevue , with pretty view ; 
^Helvetia) , a village situated in a fertile valley on the Engstligen- 
haehj which falls into the Kander lower down. Matches are largely 
manufactured here. From the church we obtain a beautiful view 
of the Kanderthal and the Altels, and of the Ralligstocke (p. 140} 

6and St. Beatenherg. — Ascent of the Nieen, see p. 136. 

The valley divides here; the S. arm, watered by the Kander, leads to 
the Gemmi. To the S.W. diverges the pretty Engstligen or Adelboden 
Valley. A new road (to Adelboden 10 H.) ascends on the left side of the 
valley to Aehseten and the Steg (auberge), crosses the Engstligen . and 
follows the right bank to Hirtbodtn, recrosses the stream and ascends to 
the village of Adelboden (4447'; '^Adler ; ^'Pens. HaH^ 5 fr. \ guides , Ohr. 
£gger and Chr. Schmid), situated on a hill , and a good centre for excur- 
sions. To the Engstligen-Alp (p. 172) , 2 hrs. , guide advisable (abundant 
Edelweiss near the waterfall); to the Wettertanne in the Allenbaehthal^ 
with fine view of the Wildstrubel and Lohner, 1 hr.; to the '^'Pochten- 
kessel (see above), 1 hr. down the valley, near the road, then to the left 
to the little Eindualdbad and through the wild Tschentenbach Gorge 
back to Adelboden. To the Bonder Waterfall in the Bondertfial, there and 
back 3 hrs. , etc. 

Pastes. To Lenk a path, marshy at places, leads hence over the 
Eahnenmoos (d^lCV), passing a large dairy establishment near the top, in 
SVa hrs. (guide 6, horse 15 fr.). Beautiful view, during the descent, of the 



1 72 Route 63, KANDERSTEG. From Thun 

upper Simmenthal, the Wildstrubel, the Weisshom, and the Basli Glacier. 
In the reverse direction 1 to IV2 hr. longer. 

Fboh Adblbodbk to Kanderstbg, an interesting ronte over the Bonder- 
krinden (7831'; 6-7 hrs.; guide 10 fr.). a pass between the Klein-Lohner 
and the IfUnihom. Descent through the wild Oesehmenfhal (p. 173). — A 
shorter route, but steep and trying, crosses the Bondergrat, fitrther N., 
between the Klein-Lohner and the Bondenpitz^ and descends by the AUmen- 
Alp (p. 17B) to Kandersteg. The Sonder»pitt (836O0) an admirable point of 
view, is ascended from Adelboden in 4, or from Kandersteg in iVzhrs. — To 
ScHWAREMBACH (ou the Oemmi route) over the Enqbtliobnorat, 9-10 hrs., 
with guide (12 fr.), a fine route. From Adelboden we ascend the valley to the 
S., passing the fine Staub/alL to the (3 hrs.) BngMtUffmalp (63810. a grand 
Alpine basin at the base of the broad Wildtfrttbel (p. 179). We then 
cross the Engatligengrat, passing the curious TMehinf^eloehtiffhom (899(y), 
and descend into the Uesehinenthali , witk ita little lake (far below to the 
left lies the Ueichinenthal^ p. 173). Then to the left, over the JSchwarz- 
grdtU^ to Tschalmeien. and Schwarenbaeh (p. 174); or we mav traverse the 
UeschinentMU- Glacier^ on the W. side of the Feltenhorn (9157'), and de- 
scend through the Rothe Kumm to the Daubtnzee and Gemmi Peus, — To 
Sierbe ovkr the Steubelego AMD Lammernjoch, 12-13 hrs. , for the pro- 
ficient only, with able guides. From the Engstligenalp a diJFficult ascent 
ascends over loose stones and across the steep Stn^el - Olaeier to the 
Struhelegg (9613'), between the Steghom and Wildstrubel (the £. peak, or 
Grosi'StruheU 10,676') \ then over the Ldmmernffletteher to the Ldmmemjoeh 
(p. 179); lastly down the Wildstruhel Olarier and the Plaint Morte^ and past 
the Uon*. Bonvin (p. 284), into the Raspillp Valley and to Sitrre (p. 284). 

Our road crosses the EngstUgenbach and the Kander (on the 
right the ruins of the TeUenburg'), and traverses the pleasant Kan^ 
dergrund. The church and parsonage of the valley are at (3 M.) 
Bunderhach (2880'; H6t. Altels). 

By a rustic cabaret, V< ^- beyond the Hotel Altels, a road diverges 
to the right in 8 min. (and another, 1/4 M. farther, by a chalet, in 4 min.) 
to the ^Blaue Bee, picturesquely embosomed in wood, and remarkable 
for its brilliant coloxir (morning light most favourable). "Ptntion on the 
bank of the lake, a pleasant, quiet spot. (Charge for maintenance of the 
roads and use of the boat 80 c. ; a ticket at I'/z fr. entitles the visitor to 
1/2 bottle of wine, for 4 fr. he may dine at the table d'hdte (at 12.30) and 
for 7 fr. he may sup, sleep, and breakfast at the pension; in each case 
the nae of boat being included ; otherwise refreshments are only procurable 
at a hut on the road-side.) Travellers to Kandersteg rejoin the road by 
a path in 2 min. 

Near Mitthols (3154') we pass the square tower of the ruined 
FeUenburg ; we then ascend the Buhlstviz in windings (short-cut 
for walkers, following the telegraph-wires), passing the Buhlhad 
and reach (6Y2 M.) — 

19 M. Xandenteg (3840'). — Bar, b., l., & A. d4V3, D. 4 fr.; 

Hot. Obxmi, rebuilt since a fire in 1886; both in Bggtntchwand ^ at the 
end of the village, near the foot of the Oemmi ; Hot. Victoria, IVsM. lower 
down. R., L., A A. 2*/4 , B. IV2, D. SVa fr. — Guides (Jchann^ FHiz^ and 
Qilg. Ogi; Chriztian^ Oilg..Joh.,KiiA8amtt€lHari; Joh.Kilnzi): toSchwabach 
(unnecessary ; 3, descent 2 hrs.) 5 fr. ; to the Gemmi (summit of the pass, 4, 
descent 2>/4 hrs.) 7 fr. ; to the Baths of Leuk (5^/4 hrs.) 10 fr. — Horsb to 
Schwarenbach 10, to the G^emmi 15 fr. (the descent on horseback to the 
Baths of Leuk Is prohibited). Carriaobs (return-vehicles cheaper): one- 
horse to Frutigen 10, two-horse 18 fr. ; Spiez, 18 or 36; Thun, 20 or 40; In- 
terlaken, 26 or 45 fr. 

A grand panorama is disclosed here : to the N.E. is the jagged 

Irrenhorn; to the £. the glistening snow-mantle of the Blumlisalp 

Frau, the beautiful Doldenhorn , and the barren Fisistocke; to 



174 Route 53. GEMMI. From Thun 

Doidenhorn, etc. On the right, 2^2 ^'^- ^rom Kandersteg, we ob- 
serve the chalets of the Spitalmatte (6250'). To the E., between the 
snowy AlteU (1 1 , 9309 and the black rocky peak of the Klevne Rinder- 
horn (9865'; adjoining which is the snow-clad Orosse Rinderhom, 
1 1 ,372'), lies imbedded the Schwarzgletseher, drained by the Schvoarz" 
hack. We next traverse a stony wilderness, the scene of a landslip, 
to the (V2 hi.) I^n of Sohwarenbacli (6775'), with its little lake. 

The ^Balmhom (12,180'), ascended in 5-o hrs., over the SchtcarxgUUcher 
and the Zagengrat (toilsome, but free from danger -, guide 30 fr.), affords a 
magnificent panorama of the Alps of Bern and the Valais, and extends 
to N. Switzerland. A shorter route starts from the Hotel Wildstrubel- 
Gemmi (see below; 4 hrs. with guide), leading through the FurkentMli^ 
behind the Binderhorn and crossing the Zagengrat. — The Altels (11,930') 
is less interesting (5-6 hrs. ; guide 25 fr. ; much step-cutting necessary 
when there is little snow). — The Wildstrubel (lOfStO*), ascended from 
the Gremmi over the Lammernglettcher in 4-4Vs hrs., is fatiguing, but re- 
paying (comp. p. 179). 

We next reach the (}/2 hr.) shallow Daubexuiee (7264'), a lake 
1 M. long, fed by the Lammem Glacier (see below), with no 
visible outlet , and generally frozen over for seven months in the 
year. The path skirts the E. bank of the lake, and, lOmin. beyond 
it, reaches the summit of the pass, the Daube, or€femmi(7553'), at 
the base of the Daubenhom (9685'), the bare limestone-rocks of which 
rise abruptly to the right. Adjacent is the Lammem Olaeier with its 
huge moraines (over the Ldmmernjoch to Lenk see p. 179). 
On the route to the left is the small JSdtel Wildstrubel (R. 3 fr.J, 
affording a magnificent ^Yiew of the Rhone Valley and the Alps of 
the Yalais (panorama at the inn). The mountains to the extreme 
left are the Mischabelhomer ; more to the right rise the Brunegg- 
horn, the huge Weisshorn, the pyramid of the Matterhorn, and still 
more to the right the Dent Blanche. At a giddy depth below lie the 
Baths of Leuk, and beyond them Inden (p. 176). Abundant flora. 
About 5 min. below the pass is a stone hut for sheep, on the 
brink of an almost perpendicular rock, 1660' high, down which, in 
1736-41, the Cantons of Bern and Valais constructed one of the 
most curious of Alpine routes. From this point to Leuk it is up* 
wards of 2 M. in length, and nowhere less than 5' in width. The 
windings are skilfully hewn in the rock, often resembling a spiral 
staircase, the upper parts actually projecting at places beyond the 
lower. The steepest parts and most sudden corners are protected 
by parapets. Distant voices reverberating in this gorge some- 
times sound as if they issued from its own recesses. Unprotect* 
ed as the path appears when seen from below, there is no danger, 
even to persons inclined to giddiness, if attended by a guide. 
(Descent to the Baths IV2) ascent 2V2 hrs.; the descent on horse- 
back is now prohibited.) In 1861 a Comtesse d'Herlincourt fell from 
her saddle over the precipice and was killed ; a small monument, 
1/4 hr. from the top, marks the spot. From the ^Blaue Fluh' we see 
on the opposite cliff a ladder (now inaccessible) and other relics of 
n old guard house, up to the foot of which the gorge was once fill- 



to Leak, BATHS OF LEUK. 53. Route. 175 

ed witli debris. The openings in the walls of the meadows at the 
foot of the Gemmi are used for the counting of sheep. 

Baths of Leuk. — *H6tsl deb Alpes, B. & A. 3, B. V2« !>• 4-5, pens. 
9-11 fr. ; *Maisov Blanohb, with its d^pendanee Grakd Bain; ^Hotxl dk 
Fkance; "^Union, B. 2Vs) !>• 3V24, pexu. 6 fr. ; ^fsiksKS Bbukneb, D. 

3 fr. \ ^Qdill. Tell, moderate. — Horse to Kandersteg 30, Schwarenbacli 12, 
Daube 8 fr. ; Porter to Kandersteg 10, Schwarenbach. 6, top of the Gemmi 

4 fr. — Diligenee to the Leak station every forenoon in summer in 2 hrs. 
(5 fr.) ; one-horse carr. 12-15, two-horse 26 fr. 

Bad Ltuk (4630'), Fr. Loeche-les-BavM^ loeally known as Baden 
or Oher'Baden^ a village consisting chiefly of wooden houses, with 
650 inhab., lies on green pastures in a valley opening to tiie S., 
and watered by the Data, 2920' below the Daube (Gemmi), and 
2590' above the Rhone. In July and August the baths are much 
frequented by French, Swiss, and Italian visitors. The massive 
embankment on the E. side protects the village against avalanches. 
In the height of summer the sun disappears about 5 p.m. The 
huge, perpendicular waU of the Gemmi presents a weird appearance 
by moonlight. 

The Thermal Sprini^ (93-123'' Fahr.), impregnated with lime, about 
23 in number, rise in and near the village, and are so abundant that nine- 
tenths of the water flow unused into the Dala. They are chie£[y beneficial 
in cases of cutaneous disease. They vary in strength and temperature, the 
Laurenet Spring being the most powerful. Their sanatory properties appear 
to depend more on the way in which they are used than on their mineral 
ingredients. The 'cure^ takes 25-30 days. The patient begins with a bath 
of half-an-hour, the time of immersion being gradually increased. From 
the 6th to the 16th day the whole body is usually covered with an erup- 
tion, which gradually disappears between the 18th and the 25th day. After 
three weeks the daily immersion is prolonged to 4-5 hrs., 2-3 in the morn- 
ing and 1-2 in the afternoon. After each bath the patient usually lies in 
bed for an hour. In order to avoid the tedium of a long and solitary soak- 
ing, most of the patients, clothed in long flannel dresses, sit in a common 
bath for several hours together, during which the water is not changed. 
Each bather has a small floating table before him, Irom which his book, 
newspaper, or coffee is enjoyed. The utmost order and decorum are pre- 
served. Private baths may also be obtained (2 fr.)- 

Both the Old and the New Bath House now contain separate 
basins for ladies and gentlemen, about 3 ft. deep. Spectators are no 
longer admitted to the galleries, but may survey the scene through 
windows on the ground-floor. The loud and animated conversation of 
the patients , who appear to enjoy excellent spirits , is chiefly in 
French. Both houses also contain shower-baths. All the baths are 

open from 5 to 10 a.m. and from 2 to 5 p.m. 

EzeuruoBS. A walk, partially shaded, and affording a fine view, leads 
from the '• Kurpromenade' to the foot of a lofty precipice (»/« hr.) on the 
left bank of the Dala. Here we ascend by eight rude Ladders (^helles), 
attached to the face of the rock, to a good path at the top, which leads in 
1 hr. to the village of Albinen^ or Arhignon (4252^). The fine view obtained 
ft*om a projecting rock above the second ladder will alone repay the 
climber; but persons liable to dizziness should not attempt the ascent. 
The descent is more difficult. 

Excursions may also be made to the Fall of the Dala, V^ hr. ; Feuil- 
leretie Alp ^SSO"), V* hr. •, Fluh Alp (6710'), 2V2 hrs. ; Torrent Alp (6346'), 
l>/2 hr. (For longer excursions guides should be brought from Kandersteg.) 
The ^'Torrenthom (9852'; iVs hrs.) commands a magnificent view of the 



bridge, and Main diverges from it to (he rlgfit, beyond the chipel of 
SI. Barbara (3997*). IVi H. beyond the bridge. By tbla ronte lbs walk 
from (he B>(hg to (be »ilw>y-sutlDn Of LeDk-Sn>ten Ukra 3-3i/i (th? 
B>cen(!«Vi)hr». — A direct eBrriogeTO.d TiiSifKHR diverge lo the Hiiht 
from the Leok ro»d, I's hr. below Inden in Ihe D»1» rsvine . pMiina 
Uirongh teverel tunnels, «nd griduslly dficending tbe slope by Vortn and 
SalglMth <to Slerre 2 hrs.). 

The road quits the Da)a raviite at a point high abOTe the Rhone 
Valley, o( nhich a beaatiful riew down to Maitigny is disclosed. 
About 3 M. from the Dala bridge -ve reach {Vj^ M.) — 

TVaM. lenk, oi Loccht-VUle [lilO' \ pop. 1411; Coumnni), 
a small tovrn ou a height ^/^ M. from the Rhone, with a picturesque 
old casUe, The caliure of the vine begins here. The road erosses 
the railway snd the Rhone by an iron bridge, to the (IV^ M.) — 

9 M. Ltuk Stalion (2044'; Hfltel de la Souste), see p. 284. 

54. From Oampel to Eandersteg. LStschea Pass. 



(0 K«iidw.t(ig Deceisarv (IS.orfw ... 

good walker* only, tn fine «e«(her. The MUchisUiat itself is worthy of 

From Oampel ('mul LStschenthal) , on the right bant of the 
Rhone , 1 M. to the N. of the station of that nime (p. 285), the 
road ascenda the LotichentKal , or gorge of the Lanta, which le 
much exposed to avalanches. Mounting rapidly at Arst, it passes 
the chapels of (1 hr.) Mitiltal and ('/a hr.) Goppmilcin (40360. 
Beyond Goppenatein the bridle-path crosses the ('/4 he) Lan%a, where 
the calley expands, and leads to (1 hr.) Ftrdtn (4657' ; poor inn) and 
(Vl'iT.) Kipptl (4514'; bed at the cure''a]. It then asoends gradually 
by WiUr to (40 min.) Sled (4950'; Hoi. Ntsthom, unpretending), 
flnely eitaated at the .N.W. base of the BIttKhhom (12,9fi6'J. 



LOTSCHEN-PASS. 54. BouU. 177 

EzcuBSioKS. (Guides, Jo*. Rubi, Peter Sigeit, and others.) The 
*Hohgleifen {Adlertpitze, 10,828'; 5-6 hrs., with guide) is not difficult. 
Super!) view of the Yalaisian Alps from the Canton Ticino to Mont 
Blanc, the W. B^nese Alps, the Lotschenthal and Rhone Valley, and to 
the £. in the foreground the huge Bietachhorn. 

The 'Bietachhom {Qrost-Nesthorn , 12,966'; 9 hrs. , guide 60 fr.), first 
ascended by Mr. Leslie Stephen in 1859, is very fatiguing and difficult, 
and fit for experts only. The previous night is sp^it in the Club-hut 
on the Scha^erff (259om), 3 hrs. from Bied. 

Passes. Over the Petertgrat (10,516') to Lauterhrunnen (11 hrs. ; 25 fr.), 
fatiguing but highlv interesting, see p. 152. — Wetterliieke (10,365') and 
ScAmadriJoeb (10,868'), diffieult, see p. 152. — Over the LdtsehenlilGke to 
the £ggi*hom, p. 294; over the Beiehpats to the Beletlp^ p. 286. 

Over the Baltschiederjoch (about 10,200*) to the Rhone Valley (from 
Ried to Visp 9-10 hrs.) , interesting but fatiguing. — The Bietschjoch 
(lOjBSd*), 8 hrs. from Ried to Baron, is a fine route, fr«e from difficulty. 

Fboh Ried to Bad Leuk ovbb the Febdbnpa£S, 8-9 hrs., with guide, 
a very fine route, and not difficult. At the Kummenalp (see below) the 
path diverges to the left from the Lotschenpass route and ascends the 
Ferdenthal to the Fer4enpas8 (8593'), between the Majingharu and the 
Ferden-IMhhMTi^. Descent over long steny slopes te th« Fkikalp and through 
the Dalaihal to Bad Leuk (p. 175). — Over the Gitzifurgge (9613'), 
9-10 hrs. to Bad Leuk, an interesting but laborious route. The pass lies 
to the S.W. of the Lotschenpass, between the Ferden-Rothhom and the 
Balmhorn. Descent over the Bala Glacier to the Fluhalp (see above). — Ovbb 
THE Restipabs, 7-8 hrs., also interesting (guide 12 fr.). From Ferden we 
ascend over the Resti-Alp (6926'; two beds) in 4 hrs. to the Bestipass (8658'), 
between the Resti-Rothhom and the Laucherspitze (see below), and descend 
the Bcuhalp to tiie town of Leuk in 34 hrs. more. From the pass we may 
easily ascend the i^U hr.) *Laucherspitze (9400'): admirable view of the 
Alps of Bern and Valais, the Rhone Valley, and the Lotschenthal. — 
To Leuk and Susten over the Faldum Pais (8675'), between the Lauebep- 
spitse and the FcMum- Rothhovn (dSlO*), or over the Niveapaas (3563'), 
between the Faldum-Rothhom and the Niven (9110'; a fine point of view, 
1/2 hr. from the pass), both easy. 

TheLotschen Pass is reached from Ried in 31/2 l^rs- ^7 Meissen' 
ried, Lauchemalpf and Sattlegi, Another route ascends from Ferden 
(see al)Ove) to the N."W., through beautiful larch-wood and over 
pastures, to the (2 hrs.) Kummenalp (6808'); then over rock, 
d^ris, and patches of snow to the (2 hrs.) Lotschen Pass (8842'), 
commanded on theW. by the steep slopes of the Balmhorn (p. 1T4), 
and on the E. by the Sehiltkom, or Hockenhom (10,817' ; ascended 
from the pass in 2^/2 hrs. ; splendid view). We obtain the finest ♦View 
on the route a little before reaching the pass itself: to the S.£. 
rises the Bietschhorn, to the S. the magnificent group of the Mi- 
schabel, Weisshorn, and Monte Rosa; to theN. are the rocky but- 
treBses of the Doldenhom and Blumlisalp; to the N.E. the Kander- 
firn, overshadowed by the Mutthorn (9978'). 

The path descends on the right side of fhe Lotschenberg Glacier ; 
near the end of the glacier it crosses to the left side and leads over 
the Schonbukl to the (IV4 lir.) OfaUalp (6036'; milk), overlooking 
the upper Oastemthal. At the bottom of the valley we cross the 
Kander to (1/2 ^ir.) Oastemdorf, or Selden (5315'), a group of 
hovels (the first, a small cabaret). The Gastemthal was more thickly 
peopled at the beginning of the century than now; but indiscri- 
minate felling of timber has so exposed it to avalanches that the 

Babdbkbb, Switzerland. 12th Edition. 12 



178 aoutt56. LENK. 

tnhabiUnts have to laiTe It from Febrauy to the h&y-harveat. ite- 
yond K beiQtitui forest, which for oentorieB hag resisted the atalancbes 
of the Doldtnhom, we next reach (1 hr.) Qattemlnh (4462'), 
amidst & chaos of rocks. The valley bends here and soon expands, 
being boanded on the S. by the snow-dad MteU (11,9300 >"d the 
TMiAom (82209, ""1 °° '■'^^ ^' ^y '^^ Fiititoete (9300'). Of 
the yarions witerfalls thai descend the abrupt clifTa to the S., the 
finest is that of the QeiUnbaeh. 

At the end of (he valley the load enters the [1 hr.) Ktai, a de- 
flte ^|^ M. long, throogh which the Kandei fori:e9 Its waT In a series 
of ciBWdas. In the centre of the gorge we ccosa to tlie left hank of 
the rlTet, and beyond its outlet we reach the Gemini route, and ('^ 
hr.) Kandentcg (see p. 172). 

65. From Than to Sioa over the Rawyl. 

Cmtp. Marl. FP- t*", "t. »3t. 

DlllOEscE from Than to Lenk (33i/, U.) dtil> Id E hrg. 19 fr. TI> c, 

conp^ 13 fr.; one bone ait. Sb. two-hurae 60 ti.y From Lenk to SLod 

(10i7ikra.) •BaU'LEPaTB, Eood on the Bern side, but rough ou the other. 

Onld« dHlrable do 8ian SO fr.). The Oemml ti far preferabU to the Sa- 

To (251/g M.) ZweUlmmtn, see pp. 180-82. The Lenk road 
CTOsees the Simmt near Cuatl, and ascends the Vyptr Sbmntnlhal 
by BttUWitd, passing Sehlou filonioibunr on Che light (p. 182), 
to the piellily sitoated (3 M.) St. Stef\im (3297'; Falke)! then 
Co Qrodei, Matten, at Che mouth of the Fermiilhai [p. 1$1~], and 
(5M0 — 

33VaM. Lank (3627'; *KTont, K. & A. 2'/,, B, 1 ft. 20 c., 
pens. 6 fr.; Sltrn}, a village rebuilt to a great extent since a Are 
in 1878, situated in a flat and somewhat marshy part of the valley 
of the Simme. About Vg M. to the S.W. (path in 7 min.), lies the 
•iTuroiudrJI Lent (3621'; R. , L. , & A. 4I/4, board 6-7 fr.), with 
sulphur baCha and grounds. The Wilditniiel (10,670^, with its 
huge precipices and it» patches of snow , whence several streams 
descend, forms a grand termination to the valley. 

E.cuasiuse. (Quidoi. CTr. and Jeh. Jut. Ja7gi.) The SIiuu rises, 
1 M. to the 8. or Lenk, in Ihe lO-called Slthtnlrsniien , to which an 
IntereiUng walk loa; tx t^fn (\ hn. tbere and back). Road bv Ottrrltd 

and view of the Wildhorn) to (I'/, hr!] Btaldta (453?), at the foot o\ 
the fall] of the Simme. A path now ascends In front of the gaw-mllL, 
between alderi , descrlbLng a curve on the right bank of Ihe stream, uid 
gkirtine a deep goi^e wilh fine waleifalls. It paiso two chaletg, travsraes 

barg(i«89'; Fridig-j Inn. small). To llie's., hieh abcve the perpendicular 
rocki, Is ike B&tli etacUf! below, not far from the bottom of the 
valley, an Ihe (10 nla.) 'Seven Fawlaim- (ITU'), now united Into a. 
aln«le stream. Farther on, to the left, Is the Upper Fall 0/ llii amnu, 
which is eonipicuou. from a long distance. To the rfrhl of the glacier 
Hue the aiilKhirliorn <9672') and lay/bedeiiiarii (GSTg'), lu Ibe left the 
AmmerUB/i«fn (BTiCj. 



WILDSTRUBEL. 55, Route. 179 

The Oberlaabhorn (6670'), rising to the W. of the Bacliberg, is fre- 
quently ascended from Lenk either by Trogegg in 3'/2hrs., or "by Poschen- 
ried and ihe Ritzberg Alj> (6710') in 4 hrs., with guide*, back by the Bazli- 
berg, Stalden, and Oberried. — The MiiUerblatt (6355') is well worth 
ascending far the fine view of the Wildatrubel, etc. (2^/2 hrs.)- Beyond 
the Eurhaus we ascend on the left bank of the Krummbachy (10 min.) cross 
it, traverse pastures and wood, passing many chalets, and mount the 
Beitelberg to the top. 

The Iffigensee (6826'), SVzhrs., is also worth seeing. By the (2 hrs.) 
Iffigen Inn (see below) we turn to the right to the (^/a hr.) Stieren-Iffigenalp 
(^12^; refreshmts.). The path, steep and stony at places, then ascends 
to the (1 hr.) saddle which bounds the lake, and leads round its bank 
to the right (where Edelweiss abounds) to the (V* l^r.) chalet at the W. 
end. — At the base of the Niesenhom (9113'), •/* ^'« l»igl^er up, is the 
Wildhorn Club Hut (about 7880'), from which the ♦Wildhorn (10,706') 
is ascended in 2^/2-3 hrs. without difficulty. The route ascends the moraine 
of the Dungel OlacieVy the arSte to the K.E. of the P/affenhom,, and the 
crest of the glacier to the summit: splendid view of the Jura, the Schwarz- 
wald. the Todi, Mte. Leone, Mte. Rosa, Mt. Blanc, Mte. Viso, and parti- 
cularly of the Plaine Horte on the Wildstrubel, and of the Diablerets. 
Descent, if preferred, to the S. by the Olider du Brozet to the Hdtel Sa- 
nef8c\ at Zanfleuron (2V2-3 hrs.; see p. 225).* 

The *Kohrbachstein (969Cr ; 6V2 hrs., with guide) is a capital point 
of view, free from difficulty. From the (4 hrs.) Rawyl Pass (see below) 
we turn to the left and mount to the (IVa hr.) saddle between the Bohr- 
bacbstein and the Wetzsteinhorn, and to the summit in 1 hr. more. Fossils 
found here. 

The Wildatmbel (W. peak 10,670'; central peak 10,667'-, E. peak 
10,676|) is best ascended from the Rawyl Pass. From the Ifflgen-Inn, where 
the nigbt is spent, to the Rawyl 2 hrs.; we then ascend to the left to the 
height between the Weisshom and the Rohrbachstein (272 hrs.), cross 
the Glacier de la Plaine Morte^ and mount the slopes of a snow-ardte to 
the W. summit in 2*/b hrs., and the central peak in Va l^i^« more (from 
Iffigen 71/2 hrs. in all). From the Razliberg (see above) a steep path 
ascends the Flahwdnde above the Siebenbrannen to the (2 hrs.) lonely 
Fluhseeli (6710'); thence over debris, moraine, and the Rdzligletseher 

to the W. peak (5 hrs.) A third route (toilsome) ascends steeply from 

the (2^,2 hrs.) Ritzberg Alp (see above ; bed of hay) to the Lau/bodenhorn 
(%78')i then close past the summit to the Thierberg Glacier, and past 
the Olettcherhom (9672') to the snow -slope of the Rdzli Olader to the 
W. and the central peak (8 hrs. from Ritzberg). Descent by the Ammerten- 
gletscher difficult. Over the LammerngUtseher to the Gemmi, see below. 

Fbom Lenk to Osteio (7 hrs.) : over the Trnttlisberg (6713') to (4V« hrs.) 
Lauienen (p. 225) , and thence over the Krinnen (5463') to (2V2 hrs.) Osteig 
(p. 225). Path bad at places (guide 10-12 fr.), see R. 66. 

Fbok Lbnk to Saanen (p. 182) 6 hrs., path over the Reulissenberg or 
Zwitzer Egg (5636'), and down the Turbachthal. — To Adelboden over the 
Hahnenmooz f see p. 171. Over the Ammerten Pats (8032'), to the S.E. of 
the Ammertengrai (8580*), interesting (7 hrs., with guide). 

Fboh Lenk to the Gemmi over the L&mmeri^'och (10,275') 10-11 hrs., 
toilsome. From the Siebenbrunnen the route leads past the Fluhseeli to 
the Razligletscher (see above), and to the left over the Wildifrubel Glacier 
to the Joeh, lying close below the W. peak of the Wildstrubel (see above ; 
ascended from the pass in ^/t hr.). Descent over the crevassed Lammern- 
gletseher to the Oemmi (p. l74). Or we may ascend from the Rawyl Pass 
ever the Glacier de la Plaine Morte to the Joch, a longer route, but less 
steep (see above). 

The Ra^wtl Route (at first a camage-ioad) gradually ascends 
on the W. side of the valley to (IV4 M.) the left hank of the If- 
figenbach and the pleasant Poschenriedthcd. The road ends 2 M. 
farther on. By the (5 min.) ^Ifftgenfall (4483' at the base) the 

12* 



180 RouU&S, RAWYL. 

bridle-path ascends to the right. After 20 min. we turn, above 
the fall, into a wooded yalley, through which the Ifflgenbach 
dashes oyer its narrow rocky bed, and traverse a level dale (with the 
precipices of the Rawyl on the left) to the (1/2 l*r.) chalet of Ifflgen 
(5253'; rustic Inn). Here we turn sharply to the left (finger- 
post), ascend through a small wood on a stony slope , skirt the face 
of a cHflf, cross (10 min.) a brook, and reach (50 min.) a stone hut 
on a height overlooking the Simmenthal. We next skirt theW. side 
of the small (S/^hr.) Baxvyl-See (7743') and reach (1/4 hr.) a cross (la 
Qrandt Croix) which marks the boundary of Bern and Valais and the 
summit of the Sawyl (7943'; 4^4 hrs. from Lenk), with a refuge- 
hut adjacent. The pass consists of a desolate stony plateau (Plan 
des Roses) f enclosed by lofty and partially snow-clad mountains : 
to the W. the long Mittaghom (08429; S.W., the Schneidehorn 
(96400 and the snow -clad Wildhorn (10,722'); S., the broad 
Rawylhom (^bAi') and the Wee««tcin^om (9114'); E., the Rohr- 
bachstein (9d90'; see above); N.E., the extremities of the glaciers 
of the Weisshom (9882'). 

Beyond the pass the path is bad. It passes a second small 
lake, and (^/4 hr.) reaches the margin of the S. slope, which affords 
a limited, but striking "'View of the mountains of the Valais. 
It descends (leaving the dirty chalets of Armillon, 6926', to the 
left) a steep rocky slope, and (Y2 hr.) crosses a bridge in the 
valley (5970' ; a good spring here). Instead of descending to the 
left to the chalets of (Vihr.) Nieder-Rawyl (¥1. les Ravins, 5768'), 
we ascend slightly by a narrow path to the right, and skirt the 
hill-side. Then (25 min.) a steep ascent, to avoid the Kandle (see 
below); 20 min., a cross on the top of the hill (6330'), whence we 
again descend to (1/2^1.) Praz Combeira (5344'), a group of huts; 
and lastly a long, fatiguing descent by a rough, stony path, as- 
cending at places, to (1^2 ^^^O Ayent (3400'; 3^/4 hrs. from the 
pass ; Inn of the cure, good wine). 

The footpath from Nieder-Bawyl to Ayent, shorter by 1 hr., leads by 
the so-called 'Kandle'' (i.e. channel), Fr. Sentier du Bute, along the edge 
of a water-conduit skirting a steep slope 1300' in height. Being little more 
than 1' in breadth, the path is only practicable for persons with steady heads. 

The path, which now improves, next leads by Orimisuat (2894') 
and Champlan to (2 hrs.) Sion (p. 288 ; IOY2 hrs. firom Lenk). 

56. From Than through the Simmenthal to Saanen. 

341/2 M. DiLiGENCK twice daily (8 a. m. and 12 noon) direct to Saanen 
in 872 hrs. (fare 9fr. 35, coap4 11 fr. 55 c-); another to Zweisimmen daily 
at 4 p.m. in 5 hrs. 40 min. — One-horse carr. to Zweisimmen 28, two- 
horse 50 fr., to Saanen 35 or 60, to Chateau d'Oex 40 or 70, to Aigle 80 or 
150 fr. 

The road skirts the Lake of Thun as far as (3 M.) OwaU{Sch.ltie ; 
Post), where the Spiez road diverges to the left, and gradually 
ascends towards the Niesen (p. 138). On a hill to the right rises the 



WEISSENBURG. 56, Route. 181 

slender tower of Strattligen (p. 137). At the bottom of the valley 
flows the Kandevj in an artificial channel. The road foUows its 
left hank, and then the left bank of the Simme, which falls into the 
Kander near Reutigen^ a prettily situated place. 

6 M. Brothftsi (*Hirsch)j with a picturesque old castle on the 
hill-side. (To the E., 1 M., lies the substantial village of Wimmis, 
p. 137.) The road passes through a defile (Porte) between the 8im- 
menfluh and the Burgfluh into the SinunentlLal (locally called the 
SiebenthaV), a fertile valley with numerous villages. 

81/2 M. latterbach (2803'; Bar). To the S. is the Diemtigthal. 

Fbom Lattbbbagh to Mattbn a shorter, but uninteresting route 
(7 brs.) leads through the Diemtigtlutl. At Latterbach it crosses the Simme 
and follows the right bank of the Kirel (passing the village of Diemtigen 
on the hill to the right) and then the left bank to Wampff'en and (2V4 hrs.) 
Tschu^is (3763'), where the valley divides into the Mdniggrund to the 
right and the Schwendenthal to the left. We follow the latter, which 
after Vi hr. again divides at Warttannen (9970^). The path now diverges 
from the road, ascends to the W. through the Grimbachtlial to the (2 hrs.) 
Grimmi (6644'), a little-frequented pass, and descends through the fertile 
Fermelthal to (2 hrs.) Matttn (p. 178). 

10 M. Erlenbaoh(2320'; *Kfone; *Ldwe), with well-built wood- 
en houses. 

The ^Stockhom (7195') is sometimes ascended henee by experts in 
4V2 hrs. ; better from Thun^ by AfMoldingen and Obev-Stocken C^Bar, rustic) 
in 5^/2 hrs., or from Blumenstein (p. 137) by the Wahlalp in 4 hrs.; descent, 
if preferred, by the Wahlalp to Bad Weigsenburg, which is reached by means 
of ladders. Splendid flora and grand view. 

1472 M. Weissenbnrg (2418 'j *Hdt. Wemenbourg'), a group of 
neat houses. 

In a steep gorge, so narrow at places as almost to exclude the sun, 
about V/4, M. to the N.W., lies the favourite "•"Weiaaenburg-Bad, or 
Bun*chi-Bad (2770* ; a drive of 20 mln., for which 4 fr. are demanded). 
The mineral water, impregnated with sulphate of lime (70°; at its 
source 81**)., and beneficial for bronchial affections, is used exclusively 
for drinking. The Ifeue Bad^ situated in a sheltered basin, consists of 
two large houses (reading and billiard rooms ; post and telegraph office *, 
pens. 10V2-13fr.); the Alte Bad, buried in the ravine V2 M. higher up, is 
inferior (pension 5-7 fr.). The baths, with the extensive pine-forests 
round them, belong to Messrs. Hauser. 

From Weissenbcbo to thb Gurnigblbad (6 hrs.). Attractive path 
through the Klus^ passing the Morgetenbachfall^ 200' high, and the Mor~ 
getenalp to the (SVz hrs.) Biirglen-Sattel (6434'); then down (passing Bad 
ScJitcefelberg. IV4 M. to the left) to the Oantrist Pass (5217'), with a charm- 
ing view, and over the Oberc Onrnigel to the (1^/4 hr.) Ovrnfgelbad (p. 133). 

201/2 M.Boltigen (2726'; *H6t. Imobersteg, Bar, both moderate), 
a thriving village with handsome houses, is reached beyond the 
Simmenegg, or Enge , a defile formed by two rocks between which 
the road passes. Above the village rise the two peaks of the Mittag- 
fluh (6198'). To the left peep the snow-fields to the E. of the Rawyl 
(p. 180). The coal-mines in a side-valley near Reidenbach (2756'; 
3/4 M. from Boltigen) account for the sign of the inn (a miner). 

Fbom Reidenbach to Bulle , 24 H. , a new road. A little above 
Reidenbach it diverges to the right and ascends in numerous windings 
(which footpaths cut oflf) to the (6 M.) pass of the KiUhmoos (4941'). It 
then descends gradually (preferable to the bad footpath) to (3 M.) Jann, 
Fr. Bellegarde (3336'; H6t. de la Cascade ^ poor), a pretty village with a 



182 Route 56. ZWEISIMMEN. 

waterfall 86' bigh. (Path to the Schiearzsee-Bad by Neusehels, 3 hrs.., see 
below.) [A cart-track to the S. ascends on the left bank of the Jaunbach 
to (IVti br.) Ablantichen (4280'; Inn), at the foot of the bare rockv chain 
of the Oastlose (6542'). Easy passes thence over the Grvbenherg (tSilS'), tu 
the S. of the Dent de Ruth (7674'), to (3 hrs.) Saanen^ and over the Schlundi 
to (2V2 hrs.) Rtickenstein (see below).] We next traverse the beantiful 
pastures of the Jaunthal or Bellegarde Valley, which yield excellent 
Grayere cheese (see below), and the picturesque Di/iU de la Tzintre to 
(7Va M.) Charmey, Ger. Qalmie (2957'; ^TVinne; Stern) ^ a well-to-do village 
and a summer resort, charmingly situated. Fine view from the church. 
The road next passes Crisue^ Chdtel^ and the ruin of Mont-Salvens (rare 
flora), crosses the Jaun^ and beyond Broe the Sarine, and leads through 
wood to La Tour-de-TrSme (p. 227) and (7V« M.) Bulle (p. 226). — From 
Cr^sus (see above) a pleasant route leads by Cemiat and the old monastery 
of Valsainte , and over the Chdsalette (4659') to the (81/2 hrs.) Schioarzsee- 
Bad (p. 194). On the Kalte Sense , 4 hrs. to the ^.E. of the Schwarzsee, 
are the sequestered but well-kept BatTis of Sehwefelberg (4573'), with springs 
impregnated with lime, whence a bridle-path crosses the OaniiHst Pass 
(see above) to (2V2 hrs.) Bad Blumenstein (p. 136). 

The road crosses the Simme at (2M.) Garstatt and turns suddenly 
round the Laubeggstalden rock, passing a fine waterfall. We recross 
the stream and pass the ruined castle of Manneriberg to (3 M.) — 

251/2 M. ZweiaimmeiL (3215'; pop. 2222; *Krone; *H6t, Sim- 
menihcUi Bar), the chief village in the valley, with an old church, 
situated in a broad basin on the Kleine Simme. Pleasant views 
from the churchyard, and from SshlossBlankenburg, now containing 
public offices and a prison, V2 ^r- *o t^© S.E. (p. 179). 

The road ascends gradually for 5 M., crossing the Schlundibach 
at (31/2 M.) Reichenstein. (To Abldntschen, see above.) In a pine- 
clad valley on the left flows the KLeine Simme, and the road 
crosses Ave or six deep lateral ravines. At the top of the hill 
(4227'; Inn) begin the Saanen-Moaer , a broad Alpine vaUey, 
sprinkled with innumerable chalets and cottages. A striking view 
is gradually disclosed of the frowning Riiblihom (7570 ')> the baro- 
meter of the surrounding country (comp. p. 90), the serrated (7um- 
/!ii/j (SOBS') , the snow-flelds at tYi^ SaneUch beyond it, and lastly 
the huge Oelten Glacier (p. 225) to the left. Lower down we ob- 
tain a fine survey of the Turbach , Lauenen , and Gsteig valleys 
(p. 224). 

3472 M. Saanen, Fr. Gessenay (3382'; pop. 37S6; *Grand 
Logis, 01 GrosS'Landhaua, R. 21/2 ^r.; Hot. Hawwirth ; Ours, plain), 
is the capital of the upper valley of the Saane (Sarine). The in- 
habitants rear cattle and manufacture the famous Gruyhre and 
Vacherin cheese. 

To Otteiff, and over the Col de Pillon to Aigle^ see p. 225 ; over the 
SaneUch to Sion, see p. 225. 

Feoh Saankn to Chateau d''Oex (p. 229) 7 M. ; diligence twice daily 
in li/s hr., by Rougemont^ or Bothenberg (*Pens. Cottier, prettily situated, 
reasonable), the frontier between cantons Bern and Vaud, where the 
language changes from German to French, and Flendniz. 



IV. WESTERN SWITZERLAND. LAKE OP GENEVA. 
LOWER VALLEY OP THE RHONE. 



57. From Bern to Neuchatel 184 

Isle of St. Peter; Chasseral, 184. — Chaumont, 186. 

58. From Neuchatel to Cbauxdefonds and Locle .... 187 
TSte de Bang; Col des Loges, 187. — From Convers to 
Biecne through the Val St. Imier, 187. — Cotes da Doubs ; 
Moulin de la Mort, 188. — From Locle to Morteau ; Col 
des Boches; Lac des Brenets; Saut du Doubs, 188. 

59. From NeuchHtel to Pontarller through theValdeTravers 188 
Creux du Van, 189. — Bavine of the Baisse, 189. 

60. From Neuchatel to Lausanne 190 

I Gorges de TAreuse, 191. — Chasseron, 192. 

61. From Bern to Lausanne (Vevey) 192 

From Flamatt to Laupen, 192. — From Freiburg to 
Payerne and Yverdon, 194. — Schwarzseebad ; Berra, 194. 

— From Bomont to Bulle, 195. — Signal de Chexbres \ 
from Chexbres to Vevey, 195. 

62. From Lausanne to Payerne and Lyss 196 

From Morat to Neuchatel, 197. — From Aarberg to 
Bern, 197. 

63. From Lausanne to Pontarller by Vallorhe 197 

From Bomainmotier to Le Pont, 198. — Lac de Joux; 
Dent de Yaulion. From Le Pont to Le Brassus, 198. 

64. Geneva and Environs 198 

Bois de la Batie; Ferney; Saleve; Voirons, etc., 207. 

65. From Geneva to Martigny by Lausanne and Villeneuve. 
Lake of Geneva, N. Bank 208 

Divonne ; the D61e, 210. — Signal de Bougy ; Gimel ; 
Col de MarcheiruK, 211. — From Lausanne to Echal- 
lens, 214. — Hauteville and Blonay; the Pleiades, 216. 

— Excursions from Montreux ; Glion ; Gorge da Chau- 
deron; Bocher de Naye, etc., 218. — FromAigle to Vil- 
larB; Chamossaire^ Corbeyrier, 221. — From Bex to Les 
Plans, 222. — Baths of Lavey ; Morcles, 228. — Pissevache ; 
Gorge du Trient, 228. — Arpille ? Pierre-k-Voir, 224. 

66. From Saanen to Aigle over the Col de Pillon .... 224 
The Lauenenthal, 225. — From Gsteig to Sion over the 
Sanetsch,225. — Excursions from Ormont Dessus; Creux- 
de-Champ, Palette, Oldenhom, Diableret, etc., 225. — 
From Ormont Dessus to Villars or Gryon over the Pas 
de la Croix. Pic de Chauasy; Leysin, 226. 

67. From Bulle to Chateau d'Oex and Aigle 226 

Ascent of the Mol^son from Bulle or Albeuve, 227. — 
From Montbovon over the Jaman to Montreux or Vevey, 228. 

68. From Bex to Sion. Pas de Cheville 229 

69. From Geneva to St. Maurice by Bouveret. Lake of 

Geneva, S. Bank. Val d'lUiez 231 

From Thonon to Samoens. Valley of the Drance, 231. — 
Ascent of the Blanchard from St. Gingolph, and to Port 
ValaiSj 232. — Excursions from Champa ; Culet; Dent 
du Midi; Tour Salli^res; Dents Blanches; from Cham- 
p^ry to Samoens and Sixt (Col de Conx, Col de la Gol^se, 
Col de Sagerou, etc.), 2aS, 234. 



184 

57. From Bern to Nenchdtel. 

41 M. Railway in l«/4 23/4 hrs. (fares 7 fr. 15, 5 fr. 20, 3 fr. 80 c). 

Bern see p. 129; from Bern to (21 M.) Bienne see p. 11. 
(Munsterthal Railway to Bdle see R. 2 ; by 8t Imier to Chauxde- 
fonds see p. 187.) Near the beautiful avenues, to the S.W. of 
Bienne , the train reaches the Lake of Bienne (1424 '; 91/2 M. long, 
272 M. broad). As the train skirts the W. bank, we obtain a very 
pleasing view of the lake, enhanced in clear weather by the distant 
Alps. — Beyond (2772 M.) Twann, Fr. Douanne (•Bar), we pass 
a fall of the Twannbach. 29 M. LigerZy Fr. Olere$8€, 

To the left, in the lake, lies the Isle of St. Peter, clothed with 
beautiful old oaks, vineyards, and fruit-trees, where Rousseau spent two 
months in 1766. (The so-called ^SchaflheThaus% in which his room is 
shown, is now a good inn.) Boat from Twann or from Ligers, there and 
back, 4, from Xeuveville 6 fr. — The lake having been lowered by the 
construction of an artificial channel for the lower Zihl, the island of 
St. Peter is now connected on the S. side wiUi the smaller Kaninehen- 
Instl^ and with the mainland near Cerlier (see below). 

3072 M. NenyeTille, Ger. Neutnsiadt ^Faucon; Trot* Pouions)^ 
a pleasant little town (2270 inh.), the last in Canton Bern, is 
the first place where French is spoken. The Museum^ near the 
station (adm. 50c.), and the house of Dr. Gross contain interesting 
antiquities from the lake-dwellings and the Burgundian wars. On the 
Schlossherg (1752'), 20niin. from the station, stands a ruined castle of 
the Bishops of Bale (fine view from the top and on the way up), 
near which the Bion forms a waterfall (often dry in summer). 

To the N. of Neureville rises the (31/2 hrs.) 'Ohasaeral (5380'; Chalet- 
Hdtel du Cf^aneral,^ with 20 beda, at the top, fair), or Oestltr^ in three 
terraces, studded on the 8. side with numerous villages amid green meadows. 
The view, grander than from the Weissenstein (p. 14), embraces W. Switzer- 
land, the Black Forest, the Vosges, and the Alps. — From Bienne (p. 10) 
a road ascends nearly to the top (12 M.). The most direct ascent is from 
St. Imier (2V2-3 hrs. ; see p. 187). 

The old town of Cerlier, or Erlach (Ours)y lies opposite Xeuveville, at 
the N. foot of the wooded JoUmoni (1980'; V« hr.), a charming point of 
view. The 'Teufelsburde' is a group of laige erratic blocks on the sum- 
mit. — Near Cerlier on the £. bank of the lake, at ZiUcherty and at 
MSrigen^ farther N., numerous remains of ancient lake-dwellings have been 
discovered. 

Near (33 M.) Landeron we quit the Lake of Bienne; the little 
town lies on the left; farther £. rises the JoUmont (see above). 
3472 M. Crewicr, with its church on a lofty rock; 3572 M. Comaux. 
Beyond a tunnel the train reaches (38 M.) St. Blaise , skirts the 
slope of the mountain, and beyond another tunnel affords a survey 
of the Lake of Nenchfctel (1427'), which it soon reaches. The 
lake, the Roman Lacus Ebrodunensis , the level of whieh has 
lately been lowered 6' by the enlargement of its outlet, is 25 M. 
long and 4-6 M. broad (greatest depth 500^). Near the N.E. end 
the Thiele or Zihl emerges from the lake. The smiling, vine- 
clad W. bank , above which rise the abrupt Jura Mts., affords an 
extensive view, from the Bernese Alps to Mont Blanc; but the 
lake itself is far inferior in beauty to those of the higher Alps. 



NEUCHATEL. 57. Route. 185 

41 M. Keuch&tel. — Railway Station on the hill-side above the 
town, 1 M. from the lake. Omnibus between the post-office (close to the 
principal Place^ by the lake) and the station dOc., box 15c. (under SOlbs.). 
Persons bonnd for the museum or other points in the N. part of the town 
may descend the path and steps to the left, but the main road leads to the 
hotels on the lake. — Steamboat on the Lake of Neuch&tel, see pp. 190, 197. 

Hotel*. ^Bkllsvub, in an open situation on the lake, R., L., & A. 4-5, 
D. 4-5, omnibus 1 fr. ; Gbano Hot. do Lag , near the lake, R^, L., & A. 
from 21/2 , I>- 31/2, omnibus «/* fr. \ H6t. dks Alpks, at the station, well 
spoken of; Fadcon, R. 2-3, D. 2V2 fr. ; *HdT. du Soleil and Hot. nu Com- 
MEBCB, near the post-office; Hot. dd Port. — Pens. Bobel (Villa Bur- 
ville)^ well situated above the town, 4-5 fr., R. extra. 

Oafes. Beer at the Tonhalle^ at the upper end of the Rue du Seyon, 
and the Brasserie Strauss^ next the Hdtel du Lac. Cercle du Afusie, in 
the Palais Dupeyrou (p. 186; a club to which strangers are admitted). 
Several other caf^s at the harbour. — Rail. Resieturantj D. 2Vt fr. 

Neuchdtd (1433'; 16,000 inh.), Ger. Neuenburgj the capital of 
the canton of that name (formerly a principality of the Orange 
family, under Prussian sway from 1707 to 1814, when it joined the 
Confederation, and finally given up by Prussia in 1857), is charm- 
ingly situated on the Lake of Neuchatel, at the base and on the 
slopes of the Jura. The modern part of the town, with its handsome 
houses, grounds, and *Quay a mile long, lies on the lake, occupying 
a strip of land partly formed by the deposits brought down by the 
Seyon from the Chasseral. It commands a fine view of the Alps 
from Pilatus to Mont Blanc. In 1839, in order to gain building 
room, the Seyon was carried into the lake above the town by m«an3 
of the Tunnel de la Trouee du Seyony 176 yds. long. 

The Chateau, on the hill above the town, the oldest part of 
which, dating from the Burgundian period, was restored in 1866, 
is now the seat of the cantonal government. Near it is the *Templb 
DU Haut, an abbey-church of the 12th century. The choir contains 
a handsome Gothic monument with 15 life-size figures, erected in 
1372 by Count Louis of Neuchitel , and restored in 1840. There 
are also memorial-stones to the Prussian governor Oeneral v. Zastrow 
(d. 1836), and the reformer Farel (d. 1565). — The Place in front 
of the church Is adorned with a Statue of Farel, erected in 1875. 
The platform on the N.E. side of the church affords a fine survey 
of the lake and the Bernese Alps. A great part of the cloisters on 
the W. side is new. 

The College, on the lake , contains a valuable natural history 
collection, founded by Agassiz (p. 168) and Ooulon, a considerable 
library, antiquities from lake- dwellings , etc. (open on Thurs. 
and Sun., 2-4; at other times 50 c). A little to the S. rises 
a bronze statue, erected in 1855, of David de Purry (d. 1786), a 
native of Neuchatel, who bequeathed 41/2 million francs to the town. 

On the lake, farther to the N. , beyond the ColUge Municipaly is 
the new Mus^e de8 Bbaux-Abts, a handsome Renaissance build- 
ing, completed in 1884, containing an interesting Collection of 
Antiquities on the groundfloor, and the. mupicipal Picture Qalleryy 



186 BouU57, NBUCHATEL. 

a collection chiefly of modern Swiss woiks, on the first floor (adm. 

to each collection V2 ^^-i ^^^^ o^ Sun. 1-4 and Thurs. 10-12). 

Two rooms at the entrance contain portraits of Prussian Kings from 
Frederick I. to Frederick William IV., and numerous other reminiscences 
of the period of Prussian rule. The finest works in the next rooms 
are: Anter: Sunday afternoon*, Retreat of the French army under 
Bourbaki, in Feb. 1871 ; A. H. Berihoud : The Jungfrau \ Kuin of Weis- 
senau; L, Berihoud: Grossing the Tiber; The Frohnalp; F. Bevthoud^ 
Young Savoyard-, Calame: Rosenlaui Glacier; '^Honte Rosa*, Ceppei^ Binaldo 
and Armida; K. Oirardet: *'Huguenot assembly surprised by Bom. Oath, 
soldiery ; Cromwell reproached by his daughter Mrs. Claypole for the con- 
demnation of Charles I. ; Old Franciscan monastery at Alexandria ; Land- 
scape in Uie Val de Travers; B. Oirardet: A father''s blessing; The con- 
fession; Oleyre^ Herciiles andOmphale; QroBdaude: The Doge Marino 
Falieri; 'Vive le vin de 1834*; Is€U>ey^ Sea-piece; Jacquaady Arrest 
of Rousseau in 1762; A. de Meuren: Piazza in Capri; The Bemina Pass; 
Pasture near Iseltwald; M. de Meuron: View of Rome with the Baths of 
Caracalla; Modem Rome; The Walensee; The Linththal near Kafels; The 
great oak; Moritt^ Henry II. of Longueville in the chateau of Colombier; 
L. Robert: ''Basilica of 8. Maria Fuori le Mura near Rome, after the fire of 
1828; Roman oxen; *Fishermen of the Adriatic; Robert -Flettrp^ Scene 
of the Massacre of St. Bartholomew ; Oh. Tschaggeny^ Flemish bridal pro- 
cession of the 17th cent.; E. Tsehoffgeny, Mother and child pursued by 
a bull; C. Vemet, Bivouack of Cossacks. Also a number of casts, water- 
colours, drawings, and engravings. 

Next the museum is an interesting ^8epulere Prihiatorique', 
discovered among the lake - dwellings at Auyemier in 1876. 
— Near the museum, 1/4 M. from the lake, is the Palctis Rouge- 
mont or Dtipet/row, with a pleasant garden. On the ground-floor is 
the CercU du Music (p. 185). At the back is a building containing 
the Musee Challande, a collection of stuffed Alpine animals (1 fr.}. 

The Observatory , erected for the benefit of the watch-manu- 
facturerg, is in telegraphic communication with Chauxdefonds and 
Loele (p. 188J. The adjoining Mail, a grass-plot planted with 
trees, commands a charming view of the lake and the Alps. 

Neuchatel is noted for its Charitable Institutions, Buch as 
the Munioipal Hospital , founded by David de Purry (p. 185), the 
Pourtai^s Hospital , near the Bern gate , and the Prlfargier LunaJtie 
Asylum, 3 M. from Neuchatel, erected by M. de Meuron in 1844. 

The ^Ohaonumt (3845'; ''H&Ul du Chaumont, a large house near the top, 
3700', pens. 6-9 fr. ; Sdtel du ChdteaUy lower down, 3 min. to the S.E.), a 
spur of the Jura, rising to the N., is the finest point of view near Neu- 
chatel. The footpath to it diverges from the Chauxdefonds road, IV4 M. 
from Xeuchatel, and leads to the top in 1 V2 hr. (carriage-road Vs hr. loiiger ; 
omnibus twice a day in summer, up i'/2, down IV4 fr. ; carr. with one 
horse 10, with two horses 20 fr.). Kear the hotels at the top are a chapel 
and a schoolhouse. The view (indicator of the Swiss Alpine Club at the 
top; good panorama by Imfeld) embraces the lakes of Neuchatel, Morat, 
and Bienne, the towns of Soleure, Bern, Freiburg, and the fertile hill- 
country lying between them, with the Alpine chain from the Sentis to 
Hont Blanc in the background. The afternoon light is best, but a perfectly 
clear horizon is rare. — An attractive route, following the mountain-ridge 
the whole way, leads in 4 hrs. from the Chaumont to the Chasseral (p. 
184). — Nearer the town there are pleasant wood-walks: to the Roche de 
VErtnitage, Pierre d Bot, Gorges du Seyothy Chanelaz (p. 190), etc. — ^Gorges 
de VAreuse, see p. 191; *THe de Rang, see p. 187. — Numerous Celtic 
remains have been found at la Tine^ near Marin (Pens. Nussl^, moderate), 
not far from St. Blaise (p. 184). 



187 
68. From VencMtel to Chauxdefonds and Lode, 

Railway (Juroj Bem^ d; Lucerne) from Xeuchatel via Chauxdefonds to 
(23V2 M.) Locle in 2V4 hn- (fares 6fr. 40, 4fr. 10, 3fr. 15 c.). This route, 
as far as Hauts-Geneveys, is very attractive ; views to the left. 

Ncuehdtel, p. 185. The train skirts the slopes behind the town 
and the castle, at first running parallel to the Lausanne line, crosses 
the SeyoThy and beyond a tunnel of 748 yds. affords a superb *yiew 
of the lake and the Alps , which improyes as we ascend (Bernese 
Alps to the E. ; Mont Blanc to the S.). 3 M. Corcelles (1879'). 
Two tunnels. 

7 M. CharribreUen, beautifully situated almost perpendicularly 
above the valley of the Areuse (p. 189). Fine view near the Buffet. 
The train backs out from the station towards the N.E. and skirts a 
wooded chain of hills. To the right is the fertile Fa2 de RuZj watered 
by the Seyon, with its numerous villages , above which rises the 
Chaumont (p. 186). 

IOV2 M. Lea Geneveya-sur-Coffrane (28700. Then (I2V2 M.) 
Les Hants - Oeneveys (3136'), the highest point of view on the 
line, where Mont Blanc becomes very conspicuous. 

The "^Tdte de Bang (4668' i Inn), ascended in IV4 hr. from Hauts- 
Geneveys (by a lane to the left, 10 min. beyond the village), commands 
a magnificent and extensive view Of the Jura westwards to the plateau of 
Langres, of the Vosges, and of the Alps from the Sentis to Hont Blanc 
and the mountains of Geneva. — A path leads hence along the hill to 
the ^Ool dea Logea (4219'; '*ff6tel d la Vue des Alpes\ on the road from 
KeuchHtel to Chauxdefonds. View similar, but less extensive. Descent 
either to (IV2 M.) Hauts-Geneveys or to (3 M.) Chauxdefonds. 

The train passes through a tunnel, 2 M. long, under the Col des 
Logea (7mln.) to (16 M.) Les Confers, a solitary station in & rock- 
girt valley, 1 M. from the village of that name. 

From Convers to Bienne, 30 M., railway in I'/a hr. (4 fr. 80, 3 fr. 
40, 2 fr. 40 c). The line traverses the industrious Val St. Jmier, watered 
by the 8uze or Scheuss, and passes the village of Les Convers. 7 H. Renan; 
OVa M. Sonviliert with the picturesque ruins of the castle of Erguel on a 
pine-clad rock. 11 M. St. Imier, Ger. St. Imer (2670' i 7114 inh. ^ Couronne; 
H6t. de Ville; *H6i. des Treize Cantons)^ capital of the valley, with consid- 
erable watch-manufactories. (Ascent of the Chasseral, p. 184, by a bridle- 
path, 2V2-3 hrs). — I2V2 M. Villeret; 15 M. Courtelary - Goifnoret ; 17 M. 
Cortebert; 19 M. Corgimont. 20 M. Sonceboz^ and thence to (30 M.) BiennCy 
see p. 10. 

Beyond a tunnel , ^/^ M. long (3 min.), under Mont Sagne , and 
a shorter one, we reach — 

I8V2M. I.aChaTix-de-roxid8(3254'; 22,456 inh.; ^FleurdeLys, 
B. 2Y2, B. Ifr.; ^Liond'Or)^ an important watch-making town, 
lying in a remote Alpine valley, nearly as high as the top of Snow- 
don, and badly supplied with water. The climate is ungenial, fruit- 
trees are rare, and com only ripens in warm summers. The divi- 
sion of labour is here carried out to its fullest extent , each part of 
the watch being made by a distinct class of workmen. If time per- 
mit , the traveller may visit the Church with its skilfully vaulted 
roof and fine pulpit, and the Collhge, containing the municipal pic- 
ture-gallery (good pictures by Swiss masters), the library, etc. 



188 Route 68. LE LOCLE. 

Prom Ghauxdefonds ti> the -^Konlia de la Kort in the picturesque 
Cites du Doubs^ a pleasant day'^s excursion. The road leads past the ''Res- 
taur. Bel'Air to Le Basset., descends through wood towards the Boubs 
(Restaur, de Brenetet), and skirts its bank to (9 M.) Biaufond. Then by 
boat to (V2 br.) Les Refrains.^ and on foot through grand and wild scen- 
ery to the (>/4 hr.) Moulin de la Mort (refreshm.)- Opposite is the curious 
Passage des Echelles^ used by the inhabitants. — Here, and for several 
leagues farther N., the Doubs forms the boundary between France and 
Switzerland. Interesting walk through its narrow and picturesque rocky 
valley to La Goule, (4Vs H.) Bief d'Etoz^ and (4i/2 M.) Seigneligier (Gheval 
Blanc), whence a diligence runs several times daily to Tavannes and lo- 
velier (p. 9). 

A pleasant footpath leads to the W. of La Chaux-de-Fonds to (U/i hr.) 
Z/es Flanehetfes (Restaur.) and the (IV2 hr.) 8aut du Douhs (see below). 

The railway bends suddenly to the S.W. — 21 M. Eplatures» 

231/2 M. Le Lode (3020'; 10,464 inh. ; *H6L des TroU RoU; 
Hot, du Jura; H6t. NationoT), famed for its watches and jewellery. 
(Chronometers at Ulysse Nardin's.) 

FsoM LocLE TO MoBTBAU (Besau^ou), 8 M., railway in 35 min. This 
new line facilitates the excursion to the Saut du Doubs (see below), 
and the road from the Col des Roches to the river is also very interOvSt- 
ing. — 11/4 M. Col-de»-Roche$ , the station for Les Brenets (see below). To 
the right, the Col with its tunnel (see below); the line passes through 
another tunnel, then through a second, and descends into the valley of 
the Doubs, affording picturesque views to the right. — 4 M. Villers- 
U-Lac^ a French locality of 3063 inh., 1 M. to the S.E. of the Lac des 
Brenets. The line skirts the right bank of the Doubs, and then traverses 
the river. 8 M. MorteaUy a little town of 2042 inh., pleasantly situated 
on the left bank (custom house examination for travellers coming from 
Locle). Hence to Besangon 40 M. (see Baedeker, le Nord de la France). 

CoL DES Roches. Lac des Beenets. Saut du Doubs. Prom the 
station of Col-des-Roches a road leads to (2 H.) Les Brenets. Xear the sta- 
tion, on the left, we pass a large subterranean mill, driven by the Bied 
which has been diverted by a tunnel 892' long. The road passes through 
the Col des Roches, a barrier of rocks which here closes the valley, by 
means of a tunnel begun in 1799, renewed and enlai^ed after a landslip 
in 1870, and then divides: to the left to Morteau, to the right to Les 
Brenets. The latter branch leads through a rock-gallery, affording a fine 
view of the upper valley of the Doubs. Lower down, the Bied issues 
from its tunnel (see above), forming a waterfall. About IV2M. from the Col 
we reach a second gallery, beyond which we descend to the (V4 M.) pretty 
village of Les Brenets (*Couronne; 'Lion d'Or), and (8/4 M.) the *Iiac des 
Brenets, a lake 3 M. in length, which the Doubs forms above the 
waterfall. A boat (3 fr., there and back-, preferable to the path over the 
rocks, and also to the small steamboat which plies on Sundays) now 
conveys us down the dark-green lake, gradually narrowing between pre- 
cipitous wooded rocks, and presenting a series of very picturesque scenes. 
In 35 min. we reach the '^Saut du Doubs {^Hdt. du Saut du Boubs., with 
garden, on the Swiss side; Hdt. de France., unpretending, on the French 
side), a picturesque waterfall SCK high , of which we obtain a fine view 
from a point high above it (6 min. from the French inn). Thence to 

the foot of the fall, 5 min. more. 
» 

^ 59. From Nenchatel to Pontaxlier throngh the Yal 

t de Travers. 

i 83 M. Railway in lV4-2»/4 hrs.; fares 6 ft. 10, 4 fr. 70, 3 fr, 65 c. (From 

; Pontarlier to Paris by Dijon, express in lOVz hrs.*, from Bern to Paris 

• 141/4 hrs.). This Jura Railway (comp. p. 187) also traverses a most pictur- 

esque country. The most striking points are between Neuchatel and Noi- 



COUVET. 59, Route. 1 89 

raigue, between Boverease and the last tunnel above St. Salpice, and bet- 
ween St. PieA-e de la Cluse and Pontarlier. Finest views to the left. 

Neuchdtel, see p. 185. The line, running parallel with that to 
Yverdon (p. 190) as far as Auvernier, crosses the Seyon, Beyond a 
short tunnel under the Val de Travers road we enjoy a beautiful 
•View of the lake and the Alps (comp. p. 187). The train skirts 
lofty vine-clad slopes, and crosses the Gorge of Serrilres by a bold 
viaduct. In the valley is Suchard^a large chocolate factory, and 
above it rises the small chateau of Beauregard. 

4 M. Auvernier ; the little town lies below, to the left (1480'; 
Hdtel du Lac J moderate). The train diverges to the right from the 
Yverdon line (p. 190) , and as it ascends we enjoy an admirable 
view of the lake and the Alps. On entering the rocky and wooded 
ravine of the Areuse we observe the lofty viaduct of the Lausanne 
line (p. 191) far below us to the left. The last glimpse of the lake 
down this romantic valley is particularly picturesque. "We soon enter 
a tunnel, high on the N. slope of the valley, almost under the station 
of Chambrelien (p. 187). Three more tunnels, before the second 
of which is the station of Champ du Moulin (2020' ; H6t. du Sentier 
des Gorges, trout) in a picturesque situation (hence to the Gorges 
de V Areuse, see p. 191). An artificial conduit, 8 M. long, supplies 
Neuchatel with spring water from this point. 

12 M. Koiraigue (2360'), at the N. base of the Creux du Van. 

The valley, called the Val de Travers from this point to St. Sulpice, 

suddenly changes its character here, and the Aieuse now flows calmly 

through a grassy dale. 

From Noiraigue a steep path ascends the ^ Creux du Yan (48070 in 
Shrs., a better route than from Boudry (p. 190) or St. Auhin (p. 191), as the 
striking view, extending from Filatus to Hont Blanc, is suddenly revealed. 
At the top is a basin, 500' deep, shaped like a horse-shoe, and nearly 3 M. 
in circumference. When the weather is about to change, this 'hollow of 
the wind' is filled with surging white vapour, which rises and falls like 
the steam in a boiling cauldron, but does not quit the basin. The phe- 
nomenon seldom. lasts above an hour. A gun-shot produces a rattling echo, 
resembling a volley of musketry. Beautiful view of the Alps from Pilatus 
to Mont Blanc. Rare plants and minerals are found here. 

Beyond (14^/2 M.) Travers (2392') are asphalt-mines on the 
opposite side of the valley with a tunnel. (From Travers a branch- 
line runs in the bottom of the valley via Couvett Mdtiers j and 
Fleurier, to Buttes and St. Sulpice, p. 190.) — 17 M. Couvet(2418'; 
^Bellevue') , a pretty town. Here , and at M6tiers and Fleurier , ex- 
cellent absinth is manufactured. 

The line again ascends the N. slope of the valley. Opposite, far 
below, lies Mdtiers^-Travers] 2415'; Maison de Ville) , where, by 
permission of the Prussian governor Lord Keith, Rousseau spent 
some time after his expulsion from Yverdon by the government of 
Bern, and wrote his 'Lettres de la Montague'. 

The ^Ravine of the Baisse (affluent of the Areuse), with its picturesque 
rocks and Waterfalls, deserves a visit. About Va M. from Motiers we pass 
a bridge and follow the brook to the right, ascending a pretty wooded gorge. 
In 1 hr. we reach a new path, leading to the top (35 min.). From this 



190 BouUeo. BOUDRY. From Neuchdiel 

point , with, the aid of a gtdde or a good map , we may ascend the 
Ghasaeron (p. 192). — Behind Motien is the OrotU de MOtiert^ a limestone 
cavern, one arm of which is 3Vz H!. long. It may be safely explored for 
about Vt^* (rough walking-, swarms of bats). At the entrance is a waterfall. 

19 m. BoveressCj above the village of the name. In the valley, far- 
ther on, is Ileiirier(2454'; ^Couronnc), with extensive watch factories. 
Beyond a long tunnel , we observe 8t. SuVpice (2557') helow ns, on 
the left. Scenery again very picturesque. Two bridges and two tun- 
nels. In the valley, 1 V2 M. to the W. of Fleurier, the Areuse, which 
probably flows under ground from the Lac des TaiU^res , rises in 
the form of a considerable stream, soon capable of working a number 
of mills. Road and railway pass through the defile of La Chairu. 

The line attains its highest point, and then enters a monotonous 
green valley with beds of peat. At (25 M.) Les Verri^rei SniBses 
(3060'; *Balanct), the last Swiss village, the French 'Army of the East* 
under Bourbaki crossed the frontier in Feb. 1871. The train enters 
France before reaching (26 M.) Les Vtrtilrea de Joux, or Verrilres- 
Fran^aises (3015'). Near St. Pierre de La Cluse the scenery again 
becomes Interesting. The defile of La Cluse^ which railway and 
road both traverse, is fortified; on the left rises the ancient Fort 
de Jonx, which was blown up with dynamite in 1877, overtopped 
by a new fort on a bold rock to the right. Mirabeau was impris- 
oned here in 1775 at the instance of his father; and In 1803 Tons- 
saint rOuverture , the negro chieftain of St. Domingo, died in the 
fort, where he had been confined by Napoleon. 

We cross the Douhsj which drains the Lac de 8t. Pointy 3Y2 M. 
to the S.W., and follow its left bank to Pontarlier. Pretty scenery. 

33 M. Pontarlier (2854'; 4675 Inhab.; Hdtel de la Poste, Grande 
Rue, R. 2 fr. ; H6t. de la France ; *RaiL Restaur,, D. incl. wine 
3-4 fr.), a small town on the Douhs. Luggage examined here. Op- 
posite the station are the Collhge and the Telegraph Office. To the 
right as the station Is entered, is the large Hospital^ with a turret. 

From Pontarlier to Co»$onay and Yallorbe, see p. 198. 

60. From KeucMtel to Lausanne. 

46VaM. Railway in 2-21/2 hrs.i fares 8fr., 5fr. 80, 4fr. 20 e. (to Geneva 
in 2V4-5hr8.5 fares 13 fr, 10, 9fr. 40, 6fr. 80 c.). — Steamboat on the Xal;e 
of Neuchdtel between Neuch2,tel and Morat (p. 197), and between Neuch&tel 
and Estavaiftr only (twice daily in IVs hr. , corresponding with the train 
to Freiburg, p. 194). 

Neuchdtel , see p. 185. Route to (4M.) Auvemier, see p. 189. 
The Lausanne train , diverging from the Pontarlier line, quits the 
lake, to which it returns beyond Bevaix (see p.l91). 5 M. Colombier 
(Maison de ViUeJj with an old chlteau converted into a barrack, and 
beautiful avenues, yields excellent white wine. (On the lake, 1^/2^, 
to the E., is the Chanilaz Hydropathic^ with pleasure-grounds and 
charming views; pens. 6-8 fr.) — 6 M. Boudry (1693'); the little 
town (1542'; Maison de ViUe)^ the birthplace of Marat, lies below 
the line, on the right bank of the Areuse, 1 M. from the station. 



to Geneva, YVERDON. 60, Route. 191 

The *aorges <le FAreuM are interesting. Leaying stat. Boudry, we cross 
the line (passing the viaduct on the left) and pass through the village of TroiS' 
rods. Before the last house we turn to the left, between walls, and descend 
in 20 min. to the entrance to the ravine. A path, hewn in the rook at 
places, a£fords striking views of the narrow, wooded gorge, above which 
the rocks and trees frequently meet. In 5 min. we come to a path to the 
left, leading to the Chalet aux CUes (donation for the use of the path 
expected). In 20 min. more we observe the Qrotte aux Fours^ above us, 
on the right, with a large entrance (easily accessible). Farther on, the 
Pontarlier railway runs above the gorge, on the right, and still higher is 
the carriage-road. We next reach (55 min.; 1 hr. 40 min. from Boudry 
station) the Champ du MovUn^ picturesquely situated (station for several 
trains). — Perhaps a more convenient way of making this excursion is to 
take the train to Champ du Moulin and then to walk down through the 
Gorges to Boudry. Another path descends to the Gorges from Chmn^re' 
lien (p. 189). Noiraigue (p. 189) is 3 M. distant. 

From Boudry to the Creux du Van (p. 189) 3 hrs^ 

Beyond Boudry the train is cairied by a great yiaduct over the 
deep Talley of the Areuae, The stream falls into the lake near Cof- 
taillod^ where the best red wine in the canton is produced. 9 M. 
Bevaix (1568'). The line returns to the bank of the lake, which it 
follows to Yverdon. 11 M. QorgierSt, Atibin; 14 M. VaumarcuSf 
with the fine well-preserved castle of that name. At (16 M.) Con- 
eise (1453' ; Ecu de France) many traces of ancient lake- villages 
have been found. To the right, above, lies CorcelleSf near which 
are three blocks of granite, 5' to 8' in height, placed in the form of 
a triangle, but not visible from the line. They are said to comme- 
morate the battle of Grandson, but are more probably of Celtic origin. 
18 M. Onnens-Bonvillan, 

21 M. €FrandBon (TAon d'Or; Croix Rouge) ^ a picturesque little 
town (1762 inh.) probably of Roman origin, has a handsome old 
CMteau of Baron de Blonay, now restored. (*View from the terrace.) 
The old Churchj Romanesque with a Gothic choir , which once be- 
longed to a Benedictine abbey, contains columns with interesting 

capitals. 

The chateau of Grandson, originally the seat of a family of that name 
and said to have been built about the year 1000, was taken by the Bern- 
ese in 1476, and in Feb. 1476 captured by Charles the Bold, Duke of 
Burgundy, who, contrary to the treaty, caused the Bernese garrison to be 
hanged or drowned. A few weeks later, on 3rd March , 1476, the Duke 
was surprised by the advancing Confederates near Grandson, and notwith- 
standing his numerical superiority (60,000 Burgundians, it is said, against 
20,000 Swiss) was utterly defeated. Part of the enormous booty captured 
on the occasion is still preserved in the Swiss arsenals. 

The train skirts the S.W. end of the lake, and crosses the Thille 

or Toile near its influx into the lake. 

24 M. Yverdon (1433'; 5968 inh. ; *H6t. de Londres, R. & A, 
2Y2» B. 172^-; *Croix Fidirale)^ the R^oman Ebrodunumy is a thriv- 
ing little town on the Toile , with pleasant promenades and fine 
views. The Chdteau, erected by Duke Conrad of ZUhringen in 1135, 
and the seat of Pestalozzi's famous school in 1805-26, is now oc- 
cupied by the town-schools, a library, and a museum of Celtic, 
Roman, and other antiquities. To the S.E. (8/4 M.) are a Sulphur 



192 Route 61. LAUPEN, From Bern 

Baih (pens. 7 fi.) and the adjoining Pens, de la Prairie, with ex- 
tensive grounds. 

The OluuMieroii (5286') , a height of the Jura, K.W. of Yrerdon, com- 
mands a fine view. Diligence twice daily in 8V4 hrs. to 8te. Croix (SSSd'; 
Pens. Jacques^ IV2-2 hrs. from the top), noted for its musical boxes. — The 
Aiguille de Beaulmts (5128') and Mont Suehet (5236'} are also fine points 
(8V2-4 hrs. 5 comp. p. 198). 

From Yverdon to Pay erne and Freiburg, see p. 194. 

The train quits the lake, and enters the broad valley of the Toile, 
a stream formed by the confluence of the Orbe (p. 197) and the Ta- 
lent near stat. Ependes. To the W. rises the long chain of the Jura : 
the Aiguille de BeauLmes and Mont8uch€t[^QQ above), between which 
in the distance are the Mont d'Or, the Dent de VauUon (p. 198), 
and Mont Tendre. 30 M. Chavomay-Orbe (the small town of Orbe 
lies 1^2 M. to the N.W. ; p. 197). Two tunnels under the Maurt- 
mont. Then (33^2 M.) Eclepens (p. 197). The train enters the 
wooded valley of the V^noge, which is connected with the Tolle by 
the Canal d'EntrerocheSj passes La Sarraz (p. 198), and stops at — 

38 M. GosBOnay (1850'; H6t. dee Orands Moulins)', the little 
town lies on a wooded hill to the right. — To Vallorbe and Pontar- 
Her, see p. 198. 

Beyond r43 M.) BiM^t^n^, to the S., appear the mountains of 
Savoy. 441/2 M. Renens. 

46V2 M. Lausanne (p. 212). 

61. From Bern to Lausanne (Vevey). 

61 M. Eailwat to Freiburg in 1-1 1/4 hr. (3 fr. 76, 2fr. 70c., 2 fr.); to 
Chexbres in 3-3V2hrs. (9fr. 70, 7 fr., 5fr. 20c.)» to Lausanne in 3V4-4 hrs. 
(10 fr. 90, 7fr. 85, 5fr. 80c.)-, to Geneva in 5V2-6V2hr8. (17 fr. 90, 12 fr. 35c., 
9fr.). — Travellers to Vevey had better alight at Chexbres (comp. p. 195)! 

We choose seats on the left, bearing in mind, however, that the train, 
after leaving the Bern station, reverses its direction and runs towards the W. 

Btrn, see p. 129. To the left we obtain a glimpse of the Bernese 
Alps, and the mountains of the Simme and Sarine valleys, among 
which the serrated Brenleire (7743') and Foli^rant (7690^ are con- 
spicuous ; more to the right is the MoMson ; to the left, in front of 
the high Alps, is the pyramidal Niesen. This view is soon hidden 
by wood. 3 M. Bumplitz; 6 M. Thorishaus. The train descends and 
crosses the Sense , the boundary between the cantons of Bern and 
Freiburg. 9 M. Flamatt. 

To the W. (572 M.j diligence daily in 1 hr., via Neueneek) lies Laupen 
(Bdr), a small town at the confluence of the Sense and the Sarine, famed 
in the annals of Switzerland for a victory gained in 1339 by the Bernese 
under Rudolph von Erlach (p. 131) over the arniy of Freiburg and the allied 
nobility of the tJechtland, Aargau, Savoy, and Burgundy. The anniversary 
is kept every five years. The battlefield on the Bramberg, Vs ^> to the 
K. of the road to Neueneek, ia marked by a monument, erected in 1829. 

Beyond the next tunnel we enter the green valley of the 
Tafema-Bach. 121/2 M. Sehmiiteni 16 M. Diidingen (Fr. Gwin), 
where we cross a viaduct, 100' high. Beyond Balliswylj which lies 
to the left, the train crosses the huge*SarineViaductf 260' in height, 



to Lausanne. FREIBUBG. 61. Route, 193 

and nearly 1/4 M. long, borne by six iron buttresses witb stone foun- 
dations. 

20 M. Freiburg. — Gband-H6t. ds Fbibou&q (Monnetf), near the 
station, R., L., 4^ A. 4, D. S^/t-i^/^tr.^ ^Hotbl Natiohai. (formerly des Mer- 
ders)j near the church of St. Kicholas, B., L., J^ A. 34, D. 3V2-4 fr. ; 
similar charges; '^Hotel obs Chabpentisbs. — Bail. Restaurant, with a 
few rooms. 

Freiburg (2100'; pop. 11,546), Yi.Fribourgj the capital of Can- 
ton Freiburg, the ancient Uechtland, founded in 1175 by Berthold 
of Zabringen (p. 130), stands like Bern on a rocky height nearly sur- 
rounded by the 8arine (Saane). Most of the inhabitants speak French. 
The town lies on the boundary between the two tongues, and Ger- 
man is still spoken in the lower quarters. 

As the picturesque situation of the town and its bridges is not seen from 
the railway-station, the following walk of 1^/2 hr. is recommended. From 
the station past the new Protestant church and through the town to the Rath- 
haus and the church of St. Nicholas; then, to the left, cross the Great 
Suspension Bridge (p. 194), and ascend the road to the right to the Pont 
de Ootteron ; cross this, and follow a road leading to the hamlet of Bour- 
gvillon. After 6 min. we take a short-cut to the right, regain the road, and 
descend to the right, through an old gateway, to the Loretto Chapel (fine 
view of the town). Kear a small chapel, farther on, we obtain to the left 
a view of the valley of the Sarine, which has been converted into a 
reservoir (Lac de Perolles). Our path descends rapidly from the chapel to 
the cattle-market, beyond which we cross the Sarine by a stone bridge 
and either ascend by the steps to the Bathhaus, or follow the road to the 
left leading to the station. 

The Gothic *Ghx7bch of St. Nioholas, founded in 1283, and 
completed In 1500, has been recently restored. Handsome tower, 
280' high, erected in 1452. Portal adorned with curious reliefs. 

The ^ Organ y one of the finest in Europe, with 67 stops and 7800 
pipes, some of them 32' in length, was built by Al. Mooter (d. 1839), 
whose bust has been placed under the instrument to the right. Perfor> 
mances in summer at 1.30 and (except Sat. and the eves of festivals) 8 p.m. 
daily. If fewer than 20 persons assemble, there is no performance unless 
the sum paid for the tickets is made up to 20 fir. — The late-Oothic carved 
Stalls deserve notice. The second chapel on the S. side contains a pleas- 
ing fine modern picture by Desckwanden^ St. Anne and St. liary. The choir 
has three modem stained-glass windows (St. Nicholas and other saints). 
A tablet on the S. pillar at the entrance to the choir is to the memory of 
Canisivu (d. 1597), a famous Jesuit. 

The H6tbl db Villb, near the church of St. Nicholas, occupies 
the site of the palace of the dukes of Zahringen. Adjacent is the 
Council Hall, with a clock-tower. In front of these buildings stands 
a venerable lime-tree, 14' in circumference, supported by stone pillars. 

According to tradition, this tree was originally a twig, borne by a 
young native of Freiburg when he arrived in the town, breathless and 
exhausted from loss of blood, to announce to his fellow-citizens the victory 
of Morat (1476). ^Victory' was the only word he could utter, and having 
thus fulfilled his mission, he expired. 

In the vicinity is a bronze Statue of Father Qrlgoire Oirard 
(d. 1850). 

Near the Morat Gate is the old Jesuits' Collegb, founded in 1584, 
now a boys' school. — The Lycie, to the right of the Hot. Monney, 
contains the valuable Cantonal Museum. 

Baedkreb, Switzerland. 12th Edition. 13 



194 Route 61, ROMONT. From Bern 

Two rooms on the ground-floor contain the ^Haxceli.0 Museum, be- 
queathed to the town by the sculptress Duchess Adela Colonna (d. 1879), 
a native of Freiburg, who assumed the name of MarceUo: Busts and 
statues (^Pythia) by Marcello \ pictures by her, and by Velasquee, Begnault, 
Hubert, Delacroix, Fortuny, Coarbet, etc.; tapestry, furniture, etc.; also 
the C€Uitonal Picture Gallery of ancient and modem works. — On the 
first floor (five roomis) is a valuable collection of antiquities from lake- 
dwellings, Roman and Swiss relics, ethnographical objects, weapons and 
armour, coins, etc. — The second floor (two rooms) contains zoological 
and physical, the third floor mineraloglcal and botanical collections. 

The great *Susfbn8Z0N B&idgb, or Pont Suspendu, constructed 
by Chaley In 1834, is 270 yds. long, and 168' above the Sarine. It 
Is supported by six wire-ropes, 410 yds. in length, which form a 
single inverted arch, the extremities being secured by 128 anchors 
attached to blocks of stone far below the surface of the earth. On the 
side next the town the chains pass through the walls of several 
houses. — A little farther up is the Pont db Gottb&on (249 yds. 
long, 305' high), a similar bridge , constructed in 1840 over the 
ValUe de Ootteron, a deep ravine descending to the Sarine. On 
the right side the chains of this bridge are secured in the sandstone 
rock itself. 

Fbok Fbbibubo to Tvbbdon, 31 Vz '^•t railway in 21/2 hrs. (4 fr. 5 c. 
or 3 fr.). l^ear (3V2 M.) Bet/aux is a huge embankment, forming an aque- 
duct for the Sornazy 150 yds. in length. Stat. OroUey ^ Lichelles, Coxissety 
Coreelles, and (14V2 M.) Payerne(Tp. 196), the junction of the *Ligne de Broye\ 
We cross the Broye and the Olane, I6V2 M. Cuffy ; 20 H. Eatavayer (Maiton 
de Ville; Cer/), a considerable little town, with the picturesque chateau 
of Chilnaux, on the Lake of Keuchatel. (Steamer twice daily by Cor- 
taillod and Auvermier to Seuchdtel, p. 186.) — 23Vt M. Cheyret; 26 M. 
Yvonand^ on a tongue of land projecting far into the lake, at the mouth 
of the ifentue, where Roman relics have been found. S1V2 V> ytferdon 
(p. 191). 

To the S.E. of Freiburg (15 H.; road by RechthcUden and Plaffeyen ; dil- 
igence in summer daily in 4 hrs.), in the valley of the Semee^ is the Behwarae 
See {Lae Ifoir^ 3365'), amidst lofty mountains, and well stocked with fish. 
On its bank lies the ^Behwortsee-Bad. or Bairn Domhte (R. 1-3, board 
4-6fr. ner day), with sulphur-springs. The KaiierepgseMou (7168'), to the 
S.E. (3V2 hrs., with guide), commands the Bernese and Valaisian Alps. — 
From the Schwaree See to Bulle^ see p. 182; over the OantrUt Pass to 
Thun, p. 182. 

Ascent of the *Berra iBirrenberff, 6656') » 6 hrs. from Freiburg, in- 
teresting. Road by Marly, a village prettily situated on the Girine (Aer- 
gerenbaeh), and Le Mowret to (7^3 M.) MonUvrcu ; thence a bridle-path up 
the Cousin-Berra (Kasenberg) to the (2^/2 hrs.) top. Extensive view of the 
Jura, the lakes of Xeuchfttel, Morat, and Bienne, and the Alps. Descent 
to Valiainte (p. 182) «/« ^r., to the Sekvarze See li/z hr. 

As the train proceeds we enjoy a view of the Simmenthal and 
Freiburg Mts. tothe left, the Mol^son being conspicuous. The Olane, 
with its perpendicular banks, and a handsome bridge of four arches 
which carries the road across it, are also seen to the left. 24 M. 
Matron; 251/2^. Rose; 27 M. Neyru%; 28V2 M. CoUena; 30 M. 
Ch^nens. Near (33 M.) ViUa%-'8t. Pierre the train enters the valley 
of the Glane ; on the left are the fertile slopes of the Oibloux (3947^. 
Near Romont, to the left, is the nunnery of La Fille Dieu. 

36 M. Romont (2326'; pop. 1876; *Cerf; Couronne; *Croix 
^anche)j a little town on the Glane, with ancient walls and watch- 



to Lausanne, GHEXBRES. 61. BouU, 195 

towers, is pictuiesquely situated on a Mil. The Caatle on tbe S. 
side, founded by the Burgundian kings in the 10th cent., is now 
occupied by the local authorities. The old Gothic Church contains 
choir-stalls with grotesque carving. At the S. end of the hill rises 
a massive round tower; the' adjoining grounds afford a pleasing view. 
Fbok Bomont to Bulls (p. 226) 1211., branch-line in 40min. (Ifr. 65, 
1 fr. 25 c). Stations VuUtementt SaleSt Vaulruz (p. 226). 

39V2 ^* 8vo%rit%. A tunnel pierces the watershed between the 
Glane and the Broye. 42 M. Vauderens. To the right lies the 
valley of the Broye, with the Pay erne railway (p. 196) and the town 
of jBi4« (p. 196). At (46 M.) Oron-U-Chdtel (2378') we pass through 
a cutting in the castle-hlU to the station on the S. side; Oron-la- 
Ville lies below, to the right (p. 196). The train now descends and 
crosses the Mionna% and the Broye. 48 M. Stat. PaUxieux (see 
p. 196). We again ascend slightly, traversing a smiling and partially 

wooded tract, to (53^2 ^0 Chexbrea, the station for Yevey (see below). 

The ^BignaX de Ohexbres (1919* ; *mL du Signal, with garden), 10 min. 
from the station, affords a superb view. At our feet lies the greater part 
of the Lake of Geneva ; to the left Vevey ; above it, from left to right, are 
the saddle of the Col de Jaman, the tooth-like Dent de Jaman, the broad 
back of the Bochers de Xaye, and the Tour d'Ai' and Tour de Morges; 
farther back, the Grand-Mceveran and the Dent de Morcles. In the centre 
of the backgroiind is the pyramid of Mont Catogne; on its left rises the 
snowy cone of Mont Velan; to the right the Savoy Mts., with the Dent 
d'Oche. — Travellers bound for Vevey may descend direct from the Signal 
to the village of Chezbres. 

Fbom Chexbbbs to Vev£t, 4 M. The diligence, corresponding with 
every train, descends to Vevey in 45 min. (passengers may alight at the 
station); ascent from Vevey to Chexbres IV2 hr., leaving Vevey about 2 hrs. 
before the train is due at Chexbres. The road leads through (1 M.) the 
large village of Chexbres (1903'; "Lion d'Or), with its old castle (whence 
a path descends direct to Rivaz-St. Sotphorin, a station on the W. Railway, 
p. 220), and then descends, in view of the beautiful lake and the Savoy 
Mts., to the Lausanne and Vevey road and (3 M.) Vevey (p. 214). 

Beyond the next tunnel (506 yds.) a **Vie-w of singular beauty ^ 
embracing the greater part of the Lake of Geneva and the surround- 
ing mountains, is suddenly disclosed. In the direction of Vevey, 
which is not itself visible, are the Pleiades, the Dent de Jaman, 
the valley of the Rhone, and the Savoy Mts. ; in the foreground lie 
numerous villages amidst vineyards. Beyond a tunnel (through 
which the setting sun shines in summer) and stat. Grandvaux 
(Cully) we observe the villages of Lutry, PuUy , and Ouchy on the 
lake, and Lausanne on the hill above them. Beyond another tunnel 
and a viaduct we reach (581/2 M.) La Conversion (Lutry), and cross 
the valley of the Paudite (p. 214) by a viaduct of nine arches. After 
another short tunnel our train reaches the Lausanne and Yevey line. 

61 M. Lausanne, see p. 212. 



13' 



196 

62. From Lausanne to Fayeme and Lyss. 

63 M. Railway (Ligm de Broye) in 4V4-7Vi brs. ; fares 8 Cr. 10, 5fr. 90 c. 

Jo PaUtieux (13 M.), see p. 195. We follow the pleasant val- 
ley of the Broye. 15 M. PtiUzieuz-Kaltt (village and ruined castle 
on the right); I7V2M. C^^<i7{e9M (V2M. to the N.£. is Oron-Xa- 
Ville, p. 195)^ 20 M. Eeublens-Bue. The little town of Bne (2323'; 
Maiaon de Ville ; FUur de Ly8) lies on a hill to the right, commanded 
by an old ch&tean. 23 M. Breasonaz. 

241/2 M. Moudon (1690'; pop. 2420 ; B6t. du Pont ; Couronne ; 
H6t. de VilW), with the eh&teanx otCarouge and Roehefort, an old 
town, the Roman Minodunum , and long the capital of the Pays de 
Vand. Handsome Gothic church. — Farther on we cross the Broye 
twice. 27^2 M. Lucens j with an old chfttean; 30 M. Hennies; 
32 M. Granges- Mamand. 

37 M. Fayeme, Ger. Peterlingen (1480'; pop. 3599; •Otiw; 
Croix Blanche') J an old town, the Roman Patemiacum (?), was 
early In the middle ages a frequent residence of the kings of Bur- 
gundy. In the 10th cent. Bertha , wife of Rudolph II. , erected a 
church and Benedictine ahhey here, the former now a granary, 
the latter a school. Her hones, with those of her husband and her 
son Conrad, were discovered in 1817 below a tower of the old 
church, and "Were burled In the Parish Church, where the queen's 
saddle with a hole for hex distaff is shown. To this day the ex- 
pression, *Ce n'est plus le temps oil Berthe fllait', is a regretful 

allusion to the ^good old times'. 

From Payeme to Freiburg and YverdoHy see p. 194. 

The valley of the Broye becomes broad and marshy. 381/2 M. 
CoretUea; 40 Y2 M. Dompierre; 42M. Domdidier. 

431/2 M. Ayenohes (1519'; pop. 1783; * Couronne) y now a 
small town, was the ancient capital of the Helvetii, the Rom. 
Aventieum. Distinct remains of an Amphitheatre and other build- 
ings, and of the old town- walls, testify to its former prosperity. 
To the N.W. rises a solitary Corinthian column 39' high, the 
remnant of a temple of Apollo, now called Le Cigognier, from the 
stork's nest which has occupied it for centuries. The Museum, 
near the amphitheatre, contains mosaics, inscriptions, and other 
relics recently found here. 

In his Childe Harold (lii. 66) Lord Byron alludes to the ^Gigognier': — ^ 
' By a lone wall a lonelier column rears 
A grey and grief-worn aspect of old days/ 

For centuries a tradition was current that the tombstone of a daughter 
of Julius Alpinus had been discovered at Avenches, the supposed inscription 
on which Lord Byron describes as a most affecting composition (Ch. Har. 
iii., 66, 67)^ but both monument and inscription are said to haye been 
invented by a certain Paulus Ouilelmus, who lived in the 16th cent. 

At (46 V2 M.") Faoug (Sonne ; H6t. Wicky) we approach the Lake 

f Morat (1428'), the Vechi-See of the middle ages (comp. p. 193), 

i the Roman Lacus Aventicensis, 5^2 ^1* long- It is separated 



ORBE. 63, Route, 197 

from the Lake of Nenchatel by the narrow JIfont VuUy towards the N. 
and the Charmontel to the S., but connected with it by the Broye. 

471/2 M. Morat, Oer. Murten (1522'; pop. 2364; Couronne or 
Post; Croix; Aigle; Pens. Kauer, on the lake, moderate; Rail, 
Restaur."), a thriving little town, lies on the lake named after it. 
Its narrow arcaded streets are overshadowed by an old Castle^ which 
in 1476, with a garrison of 1500 Bernese nnder Adrian v. Bubenberg, 
resisted the artillery of Charles the Bold for ten days before the 
battle of Morat. The Oymnasium contains a collection of Burgun- 
di an weapons. *Lafe€BaiA« (Restaur.) at Mor^tellierf Y2M. to the N. 

About 11/2 H. to the S. of Morat rises a marble Otelisk, erected in 
1822 in memory of the Battle of Herat, which was fought on 22nd June, 
1476. This was the bloodiest of those three disastrous contesta (Grandson, 
Morat, and Nancy) , in which the puissant Duke of Burgundy succeasiyely 
lost his treasure, his courage, and his life ('Gut, Muth, und Bluf^. The 
Burgundians lost 15,060 men, with the whole Of their military stores. 

The StBAMBOAT PBOM MoBAT TO Nbvchatsl (3 times daily in 2 brs.) 
crosses the lake to MotUr and Prcus^ at the £. base of the vine-clad Moni 
Vully (2267'); at Sugiez it passes under a wooden bridge and enters the 
Broye. To the W. stretches the Jura, from the Weissenstein to the Chas- 
seron. Xear La Sattge we enter the Lake of Neuch&Ul (p. 184), steering 
first S.W. to Cudr^n, and afterwards N.W. to St. Blaise and Neuehdiel 
(see p. 185). — Dilioencb from Morat to Nevtehdtel 3 times daily in 2-2i/3 
hrs., via Anet^ Ger. Ins; to Freiburg twice daily in 2V4 hrs. 

Near (50 Va M.) Qalmit%^ Fr. CharrMy, we leave the lake. To 
the left is the Orosse Moosy an extensive marshy tract, partly re- 
claimed of late. 52V2 M. Kerzers, Fr. Chihtres ; ti^/2 M. Frdschtls, 
Fr. Fras$e ; 57 M. Kallnach. 

591/2 M. Aarberg (1470'; pop. 1346; JCrone), an old town on 
an island in the Aare. Adjoining the church is the old castle of the 

counts of Aarberg, who sold their dominions to Bern in 1351. 

Diligence to Bkbn daily in 3 hrs. via Frienuberg^ once a Cistercian 
monastery, now a deaf-and-dumb asylum, Maikirch, and Orlschwaben. 

Lastly, we cross the Aare to r63 M.) Lyes , on the Bienne-Bern 
line (p, 11). 

63. From Lausanne to Vallorbe and Pontarlier. 

45 M. Railway in 2V2-3 hrs. (8 fr. 15, 5 fr. 85, 4 fr. 20 c). Express 
from Geneva to Paris by this route (363 31.) in 15 hrs. 23 min. 

To (9 M.) Coseonayy see p. 192. The train at first runs parallel 
with the Yverdon line, diverges to the left at ViUarS'Lussery, and 
leadsby Eci^pcrw to (15 M.) La Sarraa (1647'; ^aiaon de Ville')^ a 
well-to-do village with an old ch&teau. Two short tunnels. Near 
Omy we cross the Nozon, 

18 M. Amex-Orbe (17910; ^U M. to the N. lies the picturesque 
old town of Orbe (1460'; 1884 inh. ; Deux Poissons ; Ecu de France), 
on the Orbe, which is crossed here by two bridges. Early in the 
middle ages Orbe was the capital of Little Burgundy, to which period 
belong the two towers of the chateau (view from the terrace). — 
Post-omnibus to stat. Chavomay(jp. 192) seven times daily in 1/2^^' 

The line then leads in long windings, by Bofflens, to (22 M.) 



198 Route 63. VALLORBE. 

Croy-Bomainmotier, 1^2 M- from Bomainmotier (2296'; 380 inh. ; 
Maison de Ville), a very ancient place, with the dilapidated ehnich 
of an abbey which was founded in 753 and suppressed in 1536. 

Fbom Bohainmotibs to Le Pont (9 H.)- The road leads by (4V2 M.) 
Vaulion (3067'), from which the Dent de Vaulion (see below) is ascended 
without difficulty in iVa hour. Descent to Le Pont (see below), 1 hr. 

The train skirts wooded hills ; on the right lies the deep valley 
of the Orhe, and high on its left bank are the villages of LignerolUs 
and Ballaigues. (Ascent of Mont Suchetj 5236', from Lignerolles, 
recommended.) Near Vallorbe we cross the Orbe above the influx 
of the Jougnenaa. 

29Vs H. VaUorbe (2520'; 2044 inh. ; *mui de Geneve, at the 
station ; Maiaon de Ville, Croix Blanche, both moderate), a watch- 
making place, at the base of the Mont d'Or (4818'), partly burned 
down in 1883. To the S.W., 1/2 ^-i ^ the so-called Source of the 
Orbe (2570'), which emerges from the rock in considerable volume. 

To the Lac de Joux and Bent de Vaulion, an interesting excursion. 
Travellers bound for the Lake of Geneva may then proceed next day by 
Le Brassus and the Col de Harcheirnz to RoUe (see below and p. 211). 
The new Railway fbox Vallobbs to Le Pont, GVz M., in 40 min., ascends 
the W. slope of the Dent de Vaulion to the {2^2 M.) pass (3344') ; thence 
to the top of the Dent a steep ascent of 11/4 br. through woods and pastures. 
The railway then descends to — 

6V2 M. L« Pont (^Truite), a hamlet at the N. end of the Lao de Jonz (3310'; 
5 M. long, 1V« M. broad), which is separated from the little Lac Brenet by 
an embankment with a bridge. On the K. side of the Lac Brenet are a 
number of apertures (entonnoirs) in the rocks, serving to drain the lake, 
the waters of which, after a subterranean course of B M., give birth to 
the Orbe (see p. 197), TSO' lower. 

Le Pont lies on the S. slope of the *Sent de Vaulion (4875'), the W. 
side of which presents a barren and rugged precipice, IGOCy high, while 
the £. side is a gentle, grassy slope. The top is reached in ls/4 hr. 
from Le Pont, or in IVz hr. from Vaulion (see above; guide desirable). 
View of the Lac de Joux, the Lac des Rousses, the IToirmont, and the 
Dole; to the S.E. part of the Lake of Geneva, and beyond it Mont 
Blanc and the Alps of the Valais; lastly the Bernese Oberland. 

On the E. bank of the Lac de Joux, 1 M. S. of Le Pont, lies L'Ahbaye 
(Inn), with the church of an ancient Premonstratensian monastery. Ascent 
of the "Mont Tendre (D612')} 2 hrs., interestiag. At the S. end of the lake, 
6V2 M. from Le Pout (by boat in 1V2-2 hrs., with one rower S-4 fr.), lies 
the hamlet of Le Sentier; and on the Orbe, 2 M. higher up, is the village 
of Le Braasua (3412'; S6i. de la Ltxnde; H6t. de Fremce; diligence to and 
from Le Pont twice daily in 2 hrs., by Le Lieu; one-horse carr. 10 fr.), 
with iron works. Thence over the Col de Afarcheirux to (16V2 M.) Bclte, 
see p. 211. 

The train follows the pretty, wooded valley of the Jougnenaz to 
(34^2 M.) Jougne (Lion d'Or), with the French douane. Beyond a 
tunnel we pass Let Hopitaux Neufs and Les Hopitaux Vieux. 42 M. 
Frambourg. Near the .Fort de Joux , before the defile of La Cliiae 
(p. 190), we join the Neuchatel line. 

45 M. Pontarlier, seep. 191. 



I 

i 



i 



199 



64. Oeneya and Environs. 



Arrival. Bailwat Station (PI. B, 4) on the right bank, at the upper end 
of the Rue du Montblanc. Omnibus from the station to all the hotels (and 
from the hotels to the station) 30 c.; each box 15 c. New Station for the 
railway to Annemaase (Savoy) in the Boute de Chene. — Steamboat Pieks 
on the S. (left) bank by the Jardin Anglais, and on the N. (right) bank 
by the Quai da Montblanc, opposite the Brunswick Monnment (for the 
express boats at 9 a. m. and 1.25 p. m.). 

Hotels. On the Right Bank^ with view of the lake and the Alps : '''Hot. 
DEs Bergues (PI. b ; D, 4), Quai des Bergues; *H6t. db Bussib (PI. c ; D, 3) 
and *H6t. pb la Paix (PL e ; D, 3) on the Quai du Montblanc ; *H6t. 
Beaubivaue (PI. d : D, 3) and *'Hot. d^Angletebbe, on the Quai des Paquis; 
beyond these, on the Quai du L^man, *H3t. National (PI. B, 1), a large 
house, finely situated (clfised in winter). — On the Left Bank: *H6t. Mfc- 
tropole (PI. a; E, F, 3), by the Jardin Anglais; ^Hot. de TEcd (PI. f; 
D, 4) ; both with view of the lake. All these hotels are of the first class, 
with corresponding charges: B., L., & A. from 4-5, B. IV2, D. 5fr. — *H6t. 
DE LA P08TE (PI. h; D, 5), frequented by Germans, B., L., & A. from Q'/a-j 
D. 3 and 4 fr. ; ^Hot. du Lac ^1. i ; E, 4), B., L., & A. 3, D. 3 fr. ; •H6t. 
DE Pabis (PL k; E, 4), with view of the lake, B. & A. 2V2-3fr.; *H6t.-Pens. 
Flaegel, Bue Pierre-Fatio (PL F, 3); Hotel du Most Blanc, Balance 
(PL o; D, 6), and Grand Aiqlb (PL p; E, 4), in the Bue du RhSne. — On 
the^ right bank: Hot. Suisse (PL m; C, 4), B., L., & A. 3-4, D. SVsfr.; 
*HdT. DE GBNdvB (PL n ; G, 4) ; both in the Bue du Montblanc, with simi- 
lar charges; HdT. Bichemond, Place des Alpes (PI. G, 3); HdT.-PsNs. des 
Arts, *HdT. db la Garb (PL s), Hot. db la Monnaie, and Hot. des Alfes, 
all near the station. 

Penaiona Alimentaires» very numerous owing to the great influx of 
strangers : 120 to 300 fr. per month. Bovet (200 fr.), Bue G^n^ral Bufour ; 
Picaud (120-200 fr.), Quai des Eaux-Vives ; Fischer^ Quai des Eaux-Vives 3 
(6fr. per day; lake-baths near it); }£me. J. Bovet^ Quai des Eaux-Vives 2 
(for ladies, 5-6 fr. per day); Mme. Fleiechmann. Bue de la Plaine 5; Mmes. 
Livet et Grobet, Quai des Eaux-Vives 2; Zrabarthey near the university ; Fro- 
mont et Jackson^ Bue du Montblanc and Bue Pradier 1; HilleVy Bue du 
Rhone 53; Marhardt^ Boul. de Plainpalais 20; Pens, du Rhdne, Boul. de 
Plainpalais 26; Mme. Richardet (6 fr. per day), Bue du Montblanc 8; Vve. 
Picard (180 fr.). Place de la M^tropole 2 ; Bebsot, Place de la Synagogue 2 ; 
Burand^ Chemin Dancet 3; Maret^ Petit-Florissant 12; H6i.-Pens. Beau- 
Sijour^ in Champel-sur-Arve (p. 20(B), also for a single day; Pens, de la 
Roseraie, same place ; Hot.-Pbns. Bellevue, Boute de Lyon 29, with garden, 
5-7 fr. — For students chiefly : Berard (85-100 fr.) , Bue du Bhone 29. 

Cafes. Kiosque des Bastions^ on the Promenade des Bastions (p. 204), 
with music almost every afternoon and evening; Cafi du Nord^ de la 
Couronne, and de Oenive^ all on the Grand Quai ; du Th4dtre^ in the Theatre ; 
du Musie; Lyrique; in the Jardin Anglais \ du Jardin des Alpe*^ etc. — 
Beer at the caf^s. Also Scholls, Bue du Bhdne 92 ; Landolf^ Bue du Bhone 
and Bue du Gonseil G^n^ral; Brasserie de VOpira, near the theatre; Brass, 
de Rive ; Brass, de VEspirance^ Boute de Garouge 42 ; Brass. St. Jean (fine 
view) ; Grande Brasserie de Munich, Boulevard James Fazy 3, opposite the 
Promenade St. Jean; Bonivard^ Bue des Alpes 6; Brass, de la Place des 
Alpes^ in the German style; Brass. Bemoise^ Bue du Montblanc 11. Geneva 
beer at the breweries outside the gates: Trtiber.^ Boute de Ghene, with a 
pleasant shady terrace. — Bestaurants. Left Bank: Ca/4 du Nord., dear; 
Caf4 du Lac, Bue du Bhone 78 ; Villard, Bue du Bhone 51 ; Gras^ 'en Tile'; 
also at the hotels. The tables d'hote at the hotels are on the whole better 
and less expensive than dinners & la carte at the restaurants. 

Baths. Bains de la Posts, Place de la Poste, well fitted up, hot, cold, 
shower, and vapour baths; Bains des Alpes, Bue L^vrier 5; Bains de Chante- 
poulet. Rue de Ghantepoulet, etc. — Lake Baths. Swimming and other baths 
(PL 5; F, 1), by the Quai des Eaux-Vives (left bank); also by the pier on 
the opposite bank (PL 10; D, 1) ; both open for ladies 8-10 o'clock. — *Bath9 



200 Route 64. GENEVA. Pkyaicians. 

IN THK Rhone by the Pont d« la CoiUouvreai&e (PI. b; C^ 6), well fitted 
up; swimming-bath 30. plunge-bath 60, with towels 80-90 c. — Baths in 
THE Abvb, very cold (m summer only about 50"), Chemin des Bains de 
TArve, 20, >/< M- from the Place Keuve ; also at Ghampel-sur-Arve (p. 308). 

Post and Teleffraph Ofaeea (with Poste Retteutte), Place de la Poste (PL 
41 ; D, 6). Branch Offictt at the railway-station, in the Rue de THotel de 
Yille 5, at Rue du Rhdne 67, and Route de Carouge 18. 

Tramway from the station by the Pont du Montblane, Place du Molard, 
Place l^euve, Rond Point de Plainpalais to Carouge (p. !lA)6), and from the 
Place du Molard, and Cours de Rive to Ohiiu (p. 246) and Aunemaue (p. 
245). Single trip 10 c; Carouge to Chdne 40c. 

Gabs. Drive in the town, 1-2 pers. 1, 3-4 uers. IVafr.s box 50 c.; 
for one hour within the octroi-limits, 1-2 pers. 2, 3-4 pers. 2V3 fr. ; to Petit- 
Saconnex 8, Chambery, Cologny, Grand-Saconnejc 4, Vdsenaz, Bellevue 5, 
Ferney, Genthod 6, Honnetier 15 fr. — Voitubiebs : Kdlliker, Aux Pa- 

8uis; Regard, on the Terrassi^re; SocUti Oenevoue, Rue des Paquis 35. 
ne-horse carr. about 15, two-horse 30 fr. per day, fees included. 

Boats (with boatman 3 fr. for the first hour, and 1 fr. for each ad- 
ditional Vzhr.), near the Jardin Anglais, the Quai du Montblane, and the 
two piers (Jetdes). The English *canot$^ are steadier than the ^vomers' or 
sailing-boats. The smaller boats used within the harbour are called ^nacel- 
les.'' Rowers are prohibited from approaching the Pont des Bergues on ac- 
count of the dangerous rapids. 

Shops. The most attractive are those on the Orand-Quai, the Rue du 
Rhone, the Rue de la Corraterie (left bank), the Quai des Bergues, and 
the Rue du Montblane (right bank). (Geneva is noted for its watches and 
jewellery. Among the watch-makers of repute may be mentioned Vacheron 
d: Co.y Rue Tour de Tile 3; Oolay^ Leresche & Fils Quai des Bergues 31 :, Pi- 
guet A Baehmann^ Ekegvin, Patek dt Co,^ all on the Orand-Qual; Lecoultre, 
Rue Bonivard S'.Badollet tt do., near the post-office; H. Capt, and Rossel- 
Bautte, Rue du Rhdne; Bu/our d: Co., Place du Molard 11. — Engraver, 
AT. L. Bovy, chiefly for medals, Rue Chantepoulet. — Alpine boots : Miiller, 
Place du Molard. — Trunks and other travelling requisites : Isenring^ Rue 
du Rhdne, 33. — Musical boxes : F. Conchon, Place des Alpes 9 & Rue des 
Paquis 2; Troll tt Baker, Rue Bonivard 6. 

Booksdlers. Oeorg, Corraterie 10 ; Monroe, Grand Quai 32 ; Buckhardt, 
Molard 2. 

Theatre (p. 206). Performances daily in winter (adm. lVs-6 fr. ; seats 
secured in advance, or ^en location^ at higher charges). 

Orfaa Ooaoert in the Cathedral (p. 203) on Mon., Wed., and Sat., at 
7. 30 p. m. ; tickets (Ifr.) obtainable from the concierge and at the hotels. 
— Concerts in the Palaie Electoral every Sunday afternoon in winter ; also 
fortnightly in the Theatre (see above). 

Exhibition of Art, belonging to the SocUii des Amis det Beaux-Arts^ 
in the Athdn^e (p. 204), open daily 10-6, Sun. 11-4; adm. 1 fr. — Ex- 
position Municipale des Beaux- Arts in Aug. and Sept. annually, in the 
Batimeni Electoral (p. 206). — Panorama (PI. 7; D, 6), Boulevard de 
Plainpalais, open daily (1 fr.; see p. 206). — Public Lectures ( Cours publics 
et gratuits) in the University Hall, in winter daily at 8 p.m. 

Fhyaioiana. Dr. Wilkinson^ Place du Lac 1; Dr. Williams^ Place M^- 
tropole 2; Dr. L. Appia, Rue des Chanoines 5; Dr. Odier, Corraterie 8; 
D'^Espine^ Rue Beauregard 6. — Ohemists. Oeo. Baker, Place des Bergues 3 ; 
Hahn, Place Longemalle : Schmidt, Rue du Montblane, etc. 

Hvdropathic Bstabliahment (physician Dr. Qlatz) at Champel-sur-Arve 
(p. 206; tramway -station La Clnse) well fitted up. Lofty terrace, open to 
the public, with fine view of the Arve and the town. 

Snglian Ohnreh on the right bank, near the Hdtel des Bergues (PI. a). 
Presbyterian Service (Free Church of Scotland), Rue du Rhone 60. 

American Episcopal Ohureh, Rue des Voirons (PI. C, 2). 

Geneva (1243'; pop. 68,320, exclusive of the suburbs), Fr. 
"^^eruve, Ital. Ginevra, the capital of the smallest canton next to Zug 



History, GENEVA. 64, Route. 201 

(tot&l pop. 101,695), is tile largest and richest town in Switzerland. 
It lies at the S. end of the lake, at the point where the blue waters of 
the Bhone emerge from it with the swiftness of an arrow, and a little 
above the confluence of the Rhone and the Arve (p. 207). The 
Rhone diyides the town into two parts : on the left bank lies the 
Old Town J the seat of government and centre of traffic; on the right 
bank is the Quartier 8t, Qervaia, formerly a suburb only. The old 
fortifications haying been removed since 1850, the town has extended 
rapidly, and new streets are stiU springing up. 

History. Geneva makes its appearance in the Ist cent. B. C. as Oe- 
ncuva^ a town of the Allobroges (Cses. de Bell. Gall., i 6-8), whose terri- 
tory became a Boman province. In 438 it became the capital of the Bnr- 
gundian kingdom, with which it came into the possession of the Franks 
in 533, was annexed to the new Burgundian kingdom at the end of the 
9th cent., and fell to the German Empire in 1083. In 1034 Emp. Con- 
rad II. caused himself to be crowned here as king of Burgundy. In the 
course of the protracted conflicts for supremacy between the Bishops 
of Geneva, the imperial Counts of Geneva, and the Counts (afterwards 
Dukes) of Savoy, the citizens succeeded in obtaining various privileges. 
In 1518 they entered into an alliance with Freiburg, and in 1526 with 
Bern. Two parties were now formed in the town, the Confederates (*Eid- 
genossen\ pronounced by the French 'Higuenos"*, whence the term *^w- 
guenots'')^ and the Mamelukes, partisans of the House of Savoy. 

In the midst of these discords dawned the Brforkation, which Geneva 
zealously embraced. In 1536 the Bishop transferred his seat to Gex, and 
the following year the theologian Jean Calvin (properly Caulvin or CAatiWJn), 
who was bom at Noyon in Picardy in 1509, a refugee from Paris, sought 
refuge at Geneva. He attached himself to Farel^ the chief promoter of 
the new doctrines at Geneva, and soon obtained great influence in all affairs 
of church and state. In 1^8 he was banished , but on his return three 
years later he obtained almost sovereign power and succeeded in esta- 
blishing a rigid ecclesiastical discipline. His rhetorical powers were of 
the highest order, and the austerity which he so eloquently preached he 
no less faithfully practised. In accordance with the spirit of the age, 
however, his sway was tyrannical and intolerant. Castellio^ who rejected 
the doctrine of predestination, was banished in 1540; and Michael 8ervetusy 
a Spanish physician who had iled from Vienne in Dauphine in consequence 
of having written a treatise against the doctrine of the Trinity (de Trinitatis 
erroribut) , and was only a visitor at Geneva, was arrested in 1553 by 
Calvin's order and condemned to the stake and executed by order of the 
Great Council. In 1559 Calvin founded the Geneva Academy, which soon 
became the leading Protestant school of theology, so that the hitherto 
commercial city now acquired repute as a seat of learning also. Calvin 
died on 27th May, 1664, out his doctrine has been firmly rooted in Geneva 
ever since. — The attempts made by the Dukes of Savoy at the beginning 
of the 17th cent, to recover possession of Geneva were abortive, Protestant 
princes, who recognised the town as the bulwark of the Reformed church, 
having contributed ocnsiderable sums towards its fortification. 

In the 18th cent. Geneva was greatly weakened by dissensions, often 
leading to bloodshed, between the privileged classes, consisting of the old 
families (dtoyms)^ who enjoyed a monopoly both of power and of trade, 
and the unprivileged and poorer classes (bovrgeois^ habitants, and sujets). 
To these differences the writings of Jean Jacques Rousseau, the son of a 
watchmaker, bom here in 1712, materially contributed. At the instigation 
of Voltaire and the university of Paris, his ^Emile'' and ^Contrat SociaV 
were burnt in 1763 by the hangman, by order of the magistrates, as being 
^t^mdniires, soandaleux, impies et tendants h, d^truire la religion chr^tienne 
et tons les gouvemements". — In 1798 Geneva became the capital of the 
French Dipartemeni du Liman, and in 1814 it joined the Swiss Confede- 
ration, of which it became the 22nd Canton. 



202 RouU 6d, GENEVA. Quai du Mont Blanc, 

The two halves of the city separated by the Rhone are con- 
nected by eight bridges. The highest of these, the handsome *Font 
dn Xontblane (PI. D, £, 3, 4), 280yds. long, leads from the Rue du 
MontbUmCj a broad street descending from the railway-station, to the 
Jardin Anglais (see p. 203), and with this garden forms the centre 
of attraction to visitors In summer. Between the Pont du Mont- 
blanc and the Pont des Bergues is SouMeau's Iflaiid (PI. D, 4), 
united to the latter by a chain-bridge, and planted with trees (small 
caff). In the centre rises the bronze statue of the 'wild self-tortur- 
ing sophist', by Pradier (1834). At the third bridge, the Pont de la 
Machine, the Rhone divides into two branches, the left of which is 
conducted to the waterworks (p. 207), while the right forms the 
canalized channel for the discharge from the lake. 

Handsome quays with tempting shops flank the river near these 

bridges, the principal being the Orand-Quai on the left bank, and 

the Quai des Bergues on the right. Adjacent to the latter is the 

iljud du Hontblano, extending from the Pont du Montblanc towards 

the N.E., and affording a beautiful survey of the *Mont Blanc group, 

which presents a majestic appearance on clear evenings. 

An idea of the relative heights of the different peaks is better ob- 
tained from this point than at Ghamonix. Thns Mont Blanc is 15,781' in 
height, whilst the Aiguilles du Midi on the left are 12,608 only. Farther 
to the left are the Grandes Jorasses and the Dent du G^ant ; in front of the 
Hont Blanc group are the Aiguilles Rouges ; then, more in the foreground, 
the Mole, an isolated pyramid rising from the plain; near it the snowy 
summit of the Aiguille d'Argentifere \ then the broad Buet \ lastly the long 
crest of the Voirons^ which terminate the panorama on the left, while 
the opposite extremity is formed by the Sal^ve. 

In the Place des Alpes rises the sumptuous Ho&nment Brans- 
wick, erected to Duke Cfiarles IL of Brunswick (d. 1873), who 
bequeathed his property (about 20 million fr.) to the town of Geneva. 

The monument (in all o6 in height) is a modified and slightly enlarged 
copy of that of Can Signorio della Seaila at Verona. It was designed by 
Franel, and consists of a hexagonal structure in the form of a pyramid, in 
three stories, composed of white and coloured marble., surmounted by an 
equestrian statue of the duke in bronze, by Cain. The central stoiy is 
in tbe form of a Gothic chapel with a sarcophagus, on which is a recum- 
bent figure of the duke by Iguel ; and the reliefs on the sides (scenes from 
the history of Brunswick) are by the same master. At the corners , under 
projecting canopies borne by pillars, are marble statues of six celebrated 
Guelphs; higher up are the Christian virtues, the Twelve Apostles, etc. 
— The platform is embellished with mosaic pavement, flower-beds, and 
fountains. On the right and left are two colossal Chimerse by Cain, The 
pinnacled erection resembling a tower, on the W. side, affords a good 
survey of the monument, with Mont Blanc in the background. 

The continuation of the Quai du Montblanc is formed by the 
Quai des Pdquis, planted with trees, on which is the new Kursaal 
(PL C, 2; closed). Behind it is the American Church. This quay 
extends to the Jetie, or pier, which affords another fine view of the 
Alps and of the city. From the pier to the villas of Secheron extends 
the handsome Quai du Liman. — In the Rue du Montblanc is the 
Gothic English Church (PI. 11 ; C, 4), erected by Monod in 1853. 



National Monument. GENEVA. 6^, Route. 203 

On the S. (left) bank of the lake, to the left as weapproaeh from 
the Pont du Montblanc, rises the National Monument (PI. 32; E, 
3), a bronze group of Helyetia and Geneva by Dorer, commemorat- 
ing the union of Geneva with the Confederation in 1814. — Farther 
up the lake are the pleasant grounds of the Jardin Anglais, where 
a band often plays in summer. To the left of the entrance is a 
'barometer column', and in the centre of the garden are a pretty 
fountain and a bronze bust of Al. Calame (p. 206) by Iguel. A 
'kiosque' here contains an interesting *Relief of Mont Blanc (adm. 
from 8 a.m. ; Sun. and Thurs. 1-3 gratis ; at other times ^2 ^^O? ^^ 
limewood, 26' in length, affording a good general idea of the re- 
lative heights of the ^monarch of mountains' and his vassals. 

On the lake, to the N. of the Jardin Anglais, extends the broad 
Qvai des Eaux-ViveSj planted with trees. (To Cologny, see p. 207). 
Near the Qual is the Salle de la Reformation^ containing a large 
coBcert-hAll, the Musie des Missions, with articles brought home 
by missionaries (adm. Yj fr.), and an interesting Relief Model of 
Jerusalem by IlUs. 

Ascending the Rue d'ltalie , to the right near the Hdtel M^tro- 
pole, for a few paces, we reach the Promenade de St. Antoine , a 
terrace planted with trees. On the right is the ColUge de St. An^- 
toine, founded by Calvin in 1559; to the left(E.) is the Observa- 
tory (PI. 37), and on a height farther off (S.E.) rises the Russian 
Church (PI. 19), with its gilded domes , the interior of which is 
worth seeing. Adjacent is a bronze bust of R, Toepffer (d. 1846), 
the author, by Ch. Toepffer. 

The Rue des Ohaudronniers leads S.W. from the Promenade to 
the Place du Bourg de Four, in which to the right is the Palais 
de Justice (PI. 40; F, 4), containing the Music Epigraphique, a 
collection of Roman and mediseval inscriptions found &t Geneva. 
— Leaving the upper end of the Place by the Rue de rH6tel de 
Yille, we turn to the right to reach the — 

Oathedzal (St. Pierre, PI. 12), completed in 1024 by Emp. 
Conrad n. in the Romanesque style, altered in the 12th and 13th 
cent., and disfigured in the 18th by the addition of a Corinthian por- 
tico. The interior Is in the transition style of the 13th century. 
The verger lives at the back of the church, Rue Farel 8 (*/2 fr.). 

Iktbbioh. Oarved stalls of the 16th century. Monument of Duke Henri 
de BofuM (leader of the Protestants tinder Louis XIII.), who fell at Bliein- 
felden (p. 17) in 1638, of hlB wife Marff. de Sully ^ and his son Tancride ; 
the black marble sarcophagus rests on two lions ; the statue of the duke, 
in a sitting posture, has been restored in plaster, the original having been 
destroyed in 1796. Beneath a black tombstone in the nave lies Jean de 
Brognier (d. 1426), president of the Council of Constance. A black stone 
in the S. aisle is to the memory of Agrippa d^Aubigni (d. 1630 at Geneva, 
in exile), the confidant of Henry IV. of France, erected to him, in gratitude 
for Ms serviees, by the RepubUc of Geneva. Under the pulpit is a chair 
once used by Calvin. Adjoining is the beautiful Chapelle des Macchahies^ 
dating from the beginning of the IGth cent, (recently restored). Admirable 
Organ (concerts, see p. 200). 



204 BouU64. GKNEYA. Vniver9iiy, 

We now return to tbe Rue de THotel de Yille, and turn to the 
left to the — 

H6tel-de-Vme (PI. 25; F, 5), a clumsy building in the Flor> 
entine style , which is entered by an inclined plane, enabling the 
councillors to ride, or be conveyed in litters, to or from the council- 
chambers. — Opposite is the Arsenal (PI. 3 ; F, 5 ; Sun. and Thurs., 
1-4), containing the Musee Hiitoriqtie Qenevoia, a collection of old 
weapons, the ladders used at the 'escalade' (see below), etc. 

In the vicinity, Grand' Rue No. 40, is the house in which Roua- 
seaUj the son of a watchmaker, was bom (1712, d. 1778 at £rm&* 
nonville near Paris). His grandfather lived at that time at the back 
of Rue Rousseau 27, on the right bank of the Rhone , which bears 
an erroneous inscription that Rousseau was born there. 

The MuB^e Fol (PI. 35; E, 5; Sun. and Thurs., 1-4), Grand' 
Rue 11, founded by M. W. Fol, contains (in the court to the right) 
a valuable collection of Greek, Roman, and Btruscan antiquities, 
the yield of recent excavations, and medieval and Renaissance 
curiosities. 

The Rue de la Gittf , the lower prolongation of the Grand' Rue, 
leads to the Rue des Allemands , where a tasteful Fountain Mofw^ 
mtnt (PI. 31) commemorates the last and nearly successful attempt 
of the Savoyards to gain possession of the town. The day on which 
the 'Escalade' was repulsed (early on 12th Dec. 1602) is still kept 
with public rejoicings. 

A gateway adjoining the H6tel-de-Yille (see above) leads to the 
shady promenades of La Treillei which afford a fine view of the 
Sal^ve. Adjacent to this terrace is the Botanic Garden (PI. 26 ; E, 
F, 5), laid out in 1816 by the celebrated Aug. de CandoUe. The 
hot-house is adorned with marble busts of famous Genevese, and 
in front of it, on a bronze pedestal, rises a colossal bust of De 
CandoUe. Close by is a bust of E, Boisaieu (d. 1885), the botanist. 
The adjoining Promenade des Bastions is a favourite resort. (At 
the entrance, adjoining the Place Neuve, is the Kioaque deaBanUonSy 
p. 199.) In the grounds opposite are a statue of David by Chapon^ 
nUre and the ^PUrrt aux fi€8\ or 'aiix dameB\ with four figures, 
said to be a Druidical stone. To the E. is the monument of Oosatj 
the geologist. 

The Athinie (PI. 4; F, G, 5), to the S.E. of the BoUnical 
Garden, a Renaissance edifice, the facade of which is adorned with 
busts of nine famous Genevese, was erected by the wife of the *phil- 
hellenist' Eynard, and presented to the Soci^t^ des Amis des Beaux- 
Arts. It contains lecture-rooms, a library of works on the history of 
art , an exhibition of works of art (p. 200), and on the sunk-floor 
the Musie Indu8triel (Thurs. and Sun., 1-2). In the latter are 
preserved the machines used by L. Favre in boring the St. Gott- 
hard tunnel. — Near it Is the Ecole de Chimie (PI. G, 6). 

The University Buildings (PI. 2; F, 6), on the Bastion Prome- 



MwSeRath. GENEVA. 64. Route. 205 

nade, erected in 1867-71, consist of three different parts connected 
by glass galleries. The central part contains the lecture-rooms and 
laboratories, the E. wing the collection of antiquities, coins, and 
medals and the Library, and the W. wing the Nat. Hist. Museum. 

The Bibliothdque Publique, containing 100,000 vols', and 1600 MSS., 
founded by Bonivard, the prisoner of Chillon (p. 218) in 1551, is splendidly 
fitted up. The first floor contains the reading-room (Sat. 9-4, on other week- 
days 9-8o''cl.j closed in the afternoon during the university vacations). A 
hall ('Salle Ami LuHin"*) on the ground-floor, to the right of the entrance, 
contains valuable ancient and modem portraits of princes, reformers, and Ge> 
nevese and French statesmen and scholars, chiefly of the time of the Refor- 
mation CNecker; Lafontaine ■,' Descartes ^Winckelmann , by A. Kau/mann •, De 
Saussnre ; Turquet de Mayerne, attributed to Rubens ; Ch. Bonnet, by Juehl ^ 
Sismondi; De Candolle, by /TornMni;'; Humbert ^ Euler ; D'Aubigne^ Farel-, 
De Beza; Calvin; Diderot ^ Knox; Zwingli ^ Admiral Coligny-, Rabelais, 
etc.). This room also contains a collection of SISS., including autographs 
of Calvin and Rousseau. The most valuable MSS. are exhibited in glass 
cases: homilies of St. Augustine on papyrus (6th cent.); house-keeping 
accounts of Philip le Bel (1306); many with miniatures, some of them 
captured from Charles the Bold at Grandson (p. 191). On an old reading- 
desk, is a French Bible (printed at Geneva in 1588), richly bound in red 
morocco, and bearing the arms of France and Navarre, which was destined 
by the Council of Geneva as a gift to Henry IV., but never presented 
owing to his abjuration of Protestantism. The concierge eipects a fee for 
showing this room. On the ground-floor is the Cabinet of Coins; and on 
the sunk-lloor is the Archaeological Museum, containing prehistoric and 
other antiquities, chiefly of local interest (Thurs., 1-4). 

The Natural History Museum, admirably arranged by' F. J. Pictet, 
contains the famous collection Of conchylia of B. Delessert (formerly 
Duke Hass^na), which has been described by Lamarck; Pictefs collection 
of fossils; De Saussure''s geological colle(5tion, described in his 'Voyages 
dans les Alpes*; Melly's collection of about 35,000 coleoptera; a complete 
eoUection of the fauna of the environs of Geneva ; valuable rock-crystals 
from the Tiefcngletscher (p. Ill), presented by M. Revilliod, etc. — Ad- 
mission to the Museum on week-days (except Tues. and Sat.), 1-4, and 
Sun., 11-1, gratis ; at other times apply to the concierge (fee). 

To the N.W., in the Place Neuve, is an equestrian statue of 
Oen. DufouT (d. 1875), in bronze from a model by Lanz. On the 
W. side of the Place rises the new ^Theatre (PI. 44 ; E, 6), design- 
ed by Qo8s , and erected in 1872 - 79 , a handsome Renaissance 
building, with a facade enriched with columns and figures. The in- 
terior (with 1300 seats), richly embellished with sculptures and 
mural paintings, deserves a visit (adm. on week-days 1-4). 

The "Viisde Eath (PL 36), opposite the theatre, containing a 

collection of pictures, casts, etc., was founded by the Russian general 

Rath, a native of Geneva, and presented to the city by his sisters. 

It has since been much extended. Admission in summer, Mon.,Wed., 

Thurs., andFrid. 1-4, and Sun. 11-4, gratis; at other times, 1/2 ^"^^ 

(catalogue V2 ^r*)- 

VBaTZBULB. In the centre, Borgheae vase; on the right, bast of Mo-> 
li6re, by Hottdan; Ch. Bonnet by Jaquet} Sismondi by Pradier; on the left, 
bronze bust of.Duke Charles II. of Brunswick (p. 202). Left (Salle Pkadiek): 
Models and busts by Pradier; busts in bronze (Pradier, Sismondi, Humbert, 
Jacquet); busts in marble (Bellot, Rousseau, Bonnet). Odier, Charles the 
Bold in the church at Kesle. Relief by Chaponnitre. Right (Salle Cha- 
PONNifiBB): Principal door of the baptistery at Florence by Ghiherti; an- 
tique torso; Venus. Jmho/^ Eve. Chaponniire: Greek captive, David, 



206 Route 64, QENBYA. Panorama, 

Bust of V. V. Bonatetten. — The paintings are arranged in three rooms; 
to the left, the Salle Liotard, with an adjoining cahinet, in the centre 
the Salle Calame, and to the right, tlie Salle Dioat. As the arrange- 
ment of the pictures is frequently changed the more interesting are here 
mentioned in the alphabetical order of the artists^ names. — 1. Ageiut^ 
At the smithy ; 4. Agasse & TSpffer^ Horse-fair ; 238. Bocion, Lake of Ge- 
neva; 235. Louise Breslau, The friends; 236. Btirnand^ Farm-yard; Alex- 
andre Calame (of Vevay, 1810-64), *21. Thunder-storm on the Handegg; 
22-25. The Seasons; 28. Ccutres, Counting the prisoners (1871); Coroty 33. 
The Repose, 34. Ville d'Avray, 35. S. Trinity dei Monti at Rome, 37. Mont- 
martre; 38. Coypel^ Bacchus and Venus; Francois Diday (of Geneva, 
1802-77), *44. Oaks in a storm, 45. Pissevache, 46. Giessbach; D''InvemoUy 
Sea-piece; 50. Durandj After the review; *61. Duval^ On the upper Nile; 
59. Furetj Heron; 238. Gaud, Cider-Press; 239. Qirardet, Arab at prayer; 
64. Oiron, Educationof Bacchus; 66. Oraf-Reinhart, Interior of the cathedral 
at Monreale; 67. Oreuxe, Child s head (a study); 68. Oro9claude<, The vol- 
unteer; 72. Ouigon, The Rhone at Geneva; 75. Hihert^ After the escal- 
ade (p. 204); Hornung^ *78. Catherine de' Medici before the head of Ad- 
miral Colignv, 79. A captive; *85. Humbert, The ford; 90. Jeanmaire 
Pine-forest; 91. KoUer, Cattle; 98. Lairetse, Bacchanalian; 94, 96. Largil- 
litre, Portraits; 99. Leleux, Interval of rest in the studio; Liotard, 101, 
106. Portraits of himself; *107. Madonna d*Epinay, 108. Maria Theresa; 
Lugardon, 116. The Eiger, 112. Arnold von Melchthal; 129. Muyden^ Piffe- 
rari; F. Pourbus, 139. Portrait, 140. Maria de' Medici; *143. Bavel, Draw- 
ing-lesson ; 143. Rohellazy Between two fires ; 145. Rigaud, Elizabeth Char- 
lotte, duchess of Orleans; Leopold Robert, (of Chauxdefonds, 1794-1835), 
149, 150. Italian and Bernese girls, 151. Sacristy of S. Giovanni in Late- 
rano at Rome; 169. Simony The poacher; 170. Snyderty Dog fighting with 
a heron ; 179. Thuilier^ Lake of Annecy ; 168. Tifpffer, Leaving church in 
winter; VelazqueZy 185, 186. Philip IV. of Spain, and his consort Maria 
Anna of Austria; Jos. Vemety Sea-piece; 192. Vuillermety Portrait; 196. 
Ziegler, Marriage on board ship. 

On the S.W. side of the Place Neuve is the Conservatoire de 
Musique (PI. 9 ; £, 6), erected in 1858 ; behind it is the handsome 
Eglise du SacrS-Coeur (PI. 21 ; E, 6). To the S. of this, between 
the Rue du Consell-G^n^ral and the Boulevard de Plainpalals, is 
the Bdtiment EUciorai (PI. 39 ; E, 6), bearing the motto of Geneva, 
'•post tenebras lux^ ; it contains a large hall, used for exhibitions and 
concerts. — On the Boulevard de Plainpalais (PI. D, 6) Is an 
interesting Panorama (adm. 1 fr.), by Ed. Cashes of Geneva, 
representing the French army entering Switzerland in 1871. — 
Beyond the Plaine de Plainpalals (drill-ground) on the Arve are 
situated the Barracks and the well-equipped Ecole de Medecine, 
In the neighbourhood, Ghemln Dancet 2, Is the interesting Jardin 
Alpin d'Acclimatation, with a rich collection of European and 
Asiatic Alpine plants (for sale), open daily except Sun. (best time 
8-10 a.m. and 5-8 p.m.). Annual subscription for members, 2 fr. 
Director M. H. Correvon. 

Tramways run from the Rond Point de Plainpalals (Pi. F, 6) 
to Carouge (p. 208). To the left, on a terrace above Garouge, on 
the right bank of the Arve, is the favourite hydropathic establish- 
ment of Champel'8ur-Arve (p. 200). Higher up Is the *Tour de 
Champel, a view-tower commanding a splendid survey of the town, 
the lake, and the Alps. 

Returning to the Place Neuve, we may now pass the Synagogue 



Envirom. GENEVA. 64. Route. 207 

(PI. 43 ; to the W.) and visit the Pont de la Coulouvrenihrej the lowest 
of the bridges, where the Rhone-baths are situated (p. 199). Below 
the bridge are the new Waterworks^ with large water-wheels driven 
by the dammed~up water of the Rhone, which not only supply the 
houses of Geneva but afford motive power equal to 4200 horses foi 
the use of manufactories. On the left, beyond the bridge, is the 
Promenade de St, Jean, with a bronze bust of James Fazy (d. 1878), 
the Genevese statesman, by Rolland. We next pass the Ecole d*Hor- 
logerie, with the Musie dea Arts Decoratifs (adm. daily, except. 
Sat., 11-4, Sun. 9-12) containing an important collection of en- 
gravings and the models of the Brunswick Monument (p. 202), the 
Ecolt des Arts Industriels (PI. 10), and the simple and handsome 
old -Catholic church of Notre-Dame (PI. 15), and soon reach the 
railway-station. 

On the Varemb^ road, 1 M. from the railway station, is the 
*Mn86e Ariana, the property of M. Gust. Revilliod, finely situated. 
It contains pictures (Madonna of Yallombrosa, by Raphael, etc.), 
other works of art, ceramic and ethnographical collections, library, 
etc. (Adm. in summer on Tues., Thurs., and Frid. 1-5, gratis ; fee 

to attendant.) 

Environs of Geneva. Both banks of the lake near Geneva are stndded 
with villas (*campagnes'), with beautiful gardens, of which a few may be 
mentioned here. 

Right (W.) Bank. At Varemb^, McCulloch ('Chateau de Tlmperatrice', 




of 

Uont Blanc from the pavilion; admission usually on Tues. and Frid., 2-6, 
by tickets, procured gratis at the hotels at Geneva). The road to it from 
Geneva leads to the left by the station and passes under the line, this 
being also the road to Ferney, which we follow past the Musde Ariana 
(see above) as far as a (1 M.) garden - pavilion , where a finger-post in- 
dicates the way to (1 M.) Pr^gny to the right. Adjacent is the Campagne 
Favre, also commanding a fine view of Mont Blanc (always accessible). 

Lbpt (E.) Bank. At Les Eaux- Vives is Favre de la Orange (a magnifi- 
cent villa, containing the Parting of Venus and Adonis, an early work of 
Ganova). At Cologny, on the lake (see below) is the Villa Diodati (villa 
of Lord Byron). 

Walks. One of the finest walks in the environs is on the Right Bctnk, 
passing Petit and Grand Saoonnez, along the brow of the hill, command- 
ing the lake and Mont Blanc, and down to Versoix (p. 210; back by rail 
or steamer), — On the Left Bank: along the Quai des Eaux Vives, 
planted with plane-trees, up the lake to (3 M.) Vesenaz (Inn with garden 
by the lake, in LaBeloite); return to (8*|2 M.) Geneva by Oologny (Chalet 
Suisse; Caf4 des Alpes), with a charming view of the lake, or farther 
to the E. by Ohougny, with a fine survey of Mont Blanc. 

The Bois de la B&tie , at the confluence of the Rhone and the Arve, 
is reached from the Panorama (p. 206) in Vzbr. by descending to the Arve 
Bridge (paasing on the left the slaughter-houses and the cattle-market), 
and ascending through the wood to the top of the hill, which affords a 
fine survey of the town and environs. (Two cabarets.) The gray water of 
the Arve and the blue water of the Rhone flow side by side for several 
hundred yards below their confluence (La Jonction) without mixing. — 
A^'oining the Bois is the new Cemetery of St. Georges. We may now 
return to the town by the new Arve Quay, passing the Ecole de M^decine, 
the Barri^cks, and the Plaine de Plainpalais. 



I 



208 Route Sd. GENEVA. Environs. 



Omnibuses (1/2 fr.) leave the Place Gomavin (near the station) every 
hour for Famey (Truite; H^. de France), 4Va M. to the N. W. of Geneva. 
The road leads by Saconnex (see p. 207). A hill near Petit Sacconnex 

I afifords a charming view of Geneva, the lake, and Mont Blanc. We next 

pass through Grand Haceonnex, and reach Femey, in French territory, a 
place of which Voltaire may be regarded as the founder. He purchased 
the land in 1759, attracted colonists, founded manufactories, and built 
a ch&teau for himself, which, though much altered, still contains a few 
rooms with reminiscences of the founder (adm. on week-days, 12-4). Fine 
view from the garden-terrace. 

A favourite excursion from Geneva is to the SalSve , a long hill of 
limestone rock to the S. E. of the town. The N. end is called the Petit- 
Salive (2969') adjoining which are the Orand-Salhve (4291'; and the Petit 

t and Grand Piton (4606'). The finest point of view is the Grand-Sal^ve 

(Auberge des Treize Arbres), whence we survey the Mont Blanc chain, 
%fae Lake of Geneva, the Jura, the cantons of Geneva and Vaud, and 
part of France. 

The direct route to the Grand-Sale ve (3 hrs.) from Geneva is by (IVh M.) 

4 ! Carouse (1260'^ Balance; Ecu de Savoie)^ a small town founded in 1780 

•1 i by Victor Amadeus VII. of Savoy, who attracted a number of Genevese 

il f artisans hither by the offer of special advantages. It has belonged to 

1 1 Geneva since 1815. By the tramway terminus a finger-post indicates the 

'• I road to Crevin to the left. Where the road divides we always keep to 

? [ the left till we reach the railway-embankment, under which we pass \ we 

|| j then ascend the Grande Gorge by a good path. 

" The carriage-road (omnibus to Mornex from Grand Quai 28 , at 8.30, 

i ' 11.30, and 6.30; fare I'/s, to Monnetier 2fr.) leads by Chine (p. 246) to 

\ ' (7 M.) Hornex (^Bellevvcf Bdl, de Savoie; etc*), a charming village on 

the S. slope of the Petit-Salfeve . and thence to (IV4M.) Monnetier (233t>'i 
*IIdt.-Pens de la ReconnaUsonce ; *H6t,'Pens. TroUef). situated in the de- 
pression between the Petit and Grand-Saleve. The ruined tower at the 
I I end of the new road has been converted into a pension (Chateau de Mon- 

: I 'netier). In the neighbourhood are the Balme* de I'^Ermitage, a number of 

» , grottos offering pretty views of the Lake of Geneva. From this point the 

I I PeiitBalh>e is ascended in Va^'*? ^^ Grand-SaUve in IV2 hr. — Walkers 

f may descend a path with steps (^Pas de VEchelle ) from Monnetier to 

(I/2 hr.) Veyriery whence Carouge (see above) is 2 M. distant. 

The long range of the ^'Voirons, to the K.E. of Geneva (steam-tram- 
way under construction), commanding a superb view of the Alps of Savoy, 
the Jura Mts., etc., is another favourite point. Tramway in V4 hr* to An- 
nenuuse; then railway (d. 238) in 35 min. to Bom 8t. Didier; thence a drive 
. A I of 3 hrs., or a walk of 21/2 hrs. to the summit. In summer the hotel om- 

I IP ' nibus conveys passengers from Bons St. Didier to the top on three af> 

'I . ternoons weekly. On the E. slope, 100' below the summit, is the *H6tel 

] ' de VErmitage (pens. 6-8 fr.), in the midst of pine-wood, visited as a health 

m ^ resort \ and iQ min. below it is the unpretending H6t. du ChaUt. Charm- 

>lki ing walks to the (10 min.) pavilion on the Caiva'-re^ or Grand 8'gnal^ 

the highest point (4777'); to the (20 min.) old monastery on the N.W. 
,d slope; to the Crete d'Audot, an eminence i/s hr. to the S.W.; and to the 

.5; (1 hr.) Pralaire (4613'), the 8. peak. 

1 !^ ' Ascent of the *I>dle from (Jeneva by the Col de la Faucille^ 7V2 hrs., 

see p. 211. 

65. From Geneva to Martigny by Lansanne and 
Villeneuve. Lake of Oeneva (Northern Bank), 

(li - . ,8* ^- -^^^^T^y *?- 4»/4-6_ hrs. (to Lausanne 1V2-2V4, to Vevey 2}!^- 






\m 



3y4 hrsOi fares 13 fr. 55, 9 fr. 50, 6 fr. 80 c. (to Lausanne 6 fr. 36, 4 fr. 50, 3 fr. 
2()c.; to Vevey 8fr. 35, 5 fr. 90, 4fr. 20 c.). Return- tickets from (Geneva to 
St. Maurice, and from Bouveret to Brieg (R. 78), are available for two 
days, and may be used for the steamers, and vice vend. 



LAKE OF GENEVA. ^5. Route. 209 

BteambofttB along the Nobths&n Baitk far preferable to the railway : to 
Merges (ifr., ifr. 70c.) in 2V<hrg.) to Ouchy (for Lausanne, 6fr., 2 fr.) in 
3 hrs. i to Vevey (6 fr. 50, 2 fr. 70 c.) in Si/a-A hra. •, to Villeneuve (71/2 fr., 
3fr.) in 4V4-4Va hrs.; to Bouveret (7V2 fr., 3 fr.) in 4»/4-5 hours. Return- 
tickets for three days at a fare and a half, available also for returning by 
railway, but not unless specially asked for. The cabin-tickets are available 
for the second class only ; if the holder desires to travel first class he may 
obtain a supplementary ticket from the guard. Steamboat-stations on the 
TS. bank (all with piers): Bellevue^ Versoix, Miei^ Coppet^ Ciligny^ Nyon, 
Rolle, St. PrtXy Morget. 8t. Sulpiee, (htchy (Lausanne), Pully^ Lutry^ Cully ^ 
Bivaz'St. Saphorin, Oorgier (near the Grand Hdtel de Vevey), Vevey-Marehi^ 
Vevey-La-Tour, Clarens, Montreux-VemeXy Territet-Ghillon, Villeneuve. The 
express steamers leaving Geneva (Quai du Hontblanc) at 9 a.m. and 1.25 
p.m. touch at the following stations only : — l^yon, Thanon and Evian on 
the 8. bank, Ouchy, Vevey, Clarens, Hontre^z, Territet, Villeneuve, and 
Bouveret. — Several steamboats also ply daily between the N. and S. banks 
(Nyon-lfemier, Nyon-Thonon). and between Evian and Geneva. — Good 
restaurants on board (D. 2Vt-3 rr.). 

The *Lake of Geneva (1230'), Fr. Lac Liman, Ger. Oenfer See, 
the Lacus Lemanus of the Romans, is 45 M. in length, upwards of 
8 M. broad between Merges and Amphion, and IY2 ^* between the 
Pointe de Genthod and Bellerive; 250' deep near Chillon, 940' 
near Meillerie, 1100' between Ouchy and Evian (deepest part), and 
240' between Nyon and Geneva. The area is about 225 sq. M., 
heing 15 sq. M. more than that of the Lake of Constance. In shape 
the lake resembles a half moon, with the horns turned towards the 
S. and this form is most distinctly observed from the Signal de 
Bougy (p. 211). The E. horn formerly- extended 9 M. farther to- 
wards Bex , but the deposits of the Rhone have gradually filled up 
this part of the lake, and are daily extending this alluvial tract. 

The deep-blue Colqus of the Lake of Geneva differs from that of the 
other Swiss lakes , which are all more or less of a greenish hue. This 
blue tint was supposed by Sir Humphrey Davy (who lived some years at 
Geneva, and died there in 1828) to be due to the presence of iodine, 
but the cause of the p}ienomenon has never been actually ascertained. 
The Birds which haunt the la&e are wild swans (Cycnus olor), the de- 
scendants of tame birds introduced at Geneva in 1838, gulls (Laru» ridir 
-hundue), sea-swallows (Sterna Mrundo), and numerous birds of passage, 
such as ducks and divers. There are twenty-one different kinds of Fish, 
the most esteemed of which are th& trout, the *Bitter\ the 'F^ra'* {Core- 
gcnut; the ^Felchen^ of the Lake of Constance), and the perch. 

The Vegetation of the banks partakes to some extent of a southern 
character. Side by side grow the sweet and the wild chestnut-tree, the 
magnolia, the trumpet-wood, the cedar of Lebanon, and trellised vines. 
Figs and pomegranates are also of frequent occurrence, but only the former 
reach maturity. 

• ^ A phenomenon frequently observed on the Lake of Geneva, and some- 
times on other lakes also, consists in the eo-called ^Ssichb8\ ot fluetua- 
tiona in the level of the water, which within a few minutes rises or falls 
several inches or even feet above or below its usual level. These seiches 
are- caused by any sudden alteration in the atmospheric pressure and most 
commonly occur after storms, being in fact analogous to the ground-swell 
of the ocean. The teiches longitudinales, or those running from one end 
of the lake to the other, usually take about 73 min. to travel from Ville- 
neuve to Geneva, while the seiches transversales cross from the Swiss to 
the Savoy side in 10 minutes. The highest longitudinal swell oa record 
was observed at Geneva on 3rd Oct. 1841, measuring over 6 ft. in height, 
while the transverse swell rarely exceeds 8 inches in height. (F. A. Forel.) 

Baedekkb, Switzerland. 12th Edition. 14 



210 BouU 65. VEBSOIX. From Oeneva 

The Level of the lake is lowest ai the end of winter, and highest in 
summer daring the melting of the snow on the Alps. The average dif- 
ference hetween high and low water is about 5 ft., while the difference 
between the highest (1817) and lowest (1830) recorded levels amounts to 
nearly 9 ft. — The Tsupebaturb of the lake varies from 45" in winter 
to 76" or even 86° in summer, while in the deeper parts it never rises 
above 42-44**. The lake has never been known to freeze over entirely. 

The Navigation is inconsiderable, but large barges of 3(X) tons'* burden 
are occasionally seen. The graceful lateen-sail used here, and rarely seen 
elsewhere except on the Mediterranean, has a very picturesque appearance. 

The lake has for centuries been a favourite theme wiUi writers of all 
countries — Byron, Voltaire, Rousseau, Al. Dumas, and many others. 
On the N. side the deep-blue water is bounded by gently sloping hills, 
richly clothed with vineyards and orchards, and enlivened with numerous 
smiling villages. To the E. and 8. a noble background is formed by 
the long chain of the mountains of Valais and Savoy , of which the 
higher ground on the V. bank affords a good survey \ but Mont Blanc 
itself is visible from the W. bank only, from Oeneva, Nyon, Bolle, and 
particularly from Morges (p. 212). 

Stbamboat Journey (piers by the Jardln Anglais and the Quai 
du Montblanc; comp. p. 199). The banks of the lake are clothed 
with rich vegetation and studded with charming villas. On the 
left, Oenthod (p. 219), prettily situated, once the residence of the 
famous naturalists Saussure, Gh. Bonnet, and Plctet de la Rive. ' 

Versoiz (Lion d^Or)^ a considerable village, once belonged to 
France. Cholseul, the minister of Louis XV., being hostile to Ge- 
neva, contemplated founding a rival city here, and the streets were 
mapped out, but the design was afterwards abandoned. 

Coppet (Croix Blanche; Ange; Hdt.-Pens. du Lac). The chateau 
formerly belonged to Neeker, a native of Geneva , who became a 
banker at Paris and minister of finance to Louis XYI. In 1790 he 
retired to Coppet, where he died in 1804. His daughter, the cele- 
brated Mme. de Stael (d. 1817), also resided at the chateau for 
some years. Her writing-table, her portrait by David, and a bust 
of Necker are shown to visitors. 

From Coppet (carr. at the station) a road leads by Commugny and 
ChavavneM de Bogis to (SVs M.) Divonne (1543'; excellently fitted up hy- 
dropathic estab.), charmingly situated beyond the French frontier in the 
Pay* de Qex (from Kyon 5 M., diligence in connection with the express 
trains in 55 min. ; from Oeneva 12 M., carr. in IV2 hr., with one horse 15-18, 
with two hordes 25 fr.). Ascent of the Ddle from Divonne, see below. 

CiUgny is prettily situated on a hill a little way inland. Farther 
on Is the Ch&teau de Crans. 

Nyon (^Beaurivagej with garden on the lake; *Angej pens. 

5-6 fr. ; Couronne) was the Colonia Julia EquestriSj or Noviodunum^ 

of the Romans. The ancient castle , with walls 10' thick, and five 

towers, built in the 12th cent. , and now the property of the town, 

was once occupied by Victor v. Bonstetten (d. 1832) , the author, 

who was frequently visited here by eminent Swiss savants. The 

terrace and the pleasant promenades of the upper part of the town 

afford a beautiful view of the lake, the Jura, and the Alps, with 

Mont Blanc. Several relics of the Roman period still exist here. 
Ascent of the Ddi.B, very interesting. A high-road (diligence) leads 
^m Kyon through the Jura by (1 hr.) Trilex^ (2 hrs.) 8U CergueSy and 



toUartigny, ROLLE. 66. Route. 211 

Ci hn.) Les Roui$eSy a small French frontier fort, to (1 hr.) Morez^ a little 
town in the Freneh department of Jura. From Xyon on foot in 3 hrs., 
to St. Oerfues (3432'; Sdtel d« la Potte; ^Bdt.-Pens. Capt; Pension Delaigue; 
^Obtervatoirey a hotel and pension on a height, 5 min. from the post-office, 
between the old ch&teau of St. Cergues and the Noirmont, with the finest 
view), a village and summer resort at the K.E. base of the Dole, two- 
thirds of the way from the top. The road from Nyon to St. Cergues leads 
by (3 M.) Trilexj at the foot of the hills. The traveller should drive (6 fr.) 
as far as the beginning of the well-shaded old road, li/z M. beyond Tr^lez, 
which follows the telegraph-wires, and ascends straight to St. Cergues 
(3 M.). One-horse carr. to Tr^lex 4, to St. Cergues 12 fr. and fee. ]^m 
St. Cergues (guide 6 fr., not indispensable) we ascend to the (1 hr.) Chalet 
du Vouarne^ and through the depression (La Porte) between the Vouame 
and the Ddle, to the (1 hr.) top of the *Sol« (5606'), tbe highest sum- 
mit of the Swiss Jura. The view is picturesque and extensive, and Mont 
Blanc is seen in all its majesty. — From Oingxru^ IV2 M. to the W. of 
Tr^lex, a good road leads to the (6 M .) Chalets de la Divonne^ Vt hr. from 
the top of the Dole. — Another leads by La Rippe^ 4 M. to the W. of 
Kyon, and 1 H. from Divonne (see above), and (^4 M.) Venddme^ at the foot 
of the hill, from which a pleasant forest-path ascends to the summit in 3 hrs. 
— The best route for pedestrians from Geneva (7V2 hrs. to the summit 
of the D51e) is by the Col de la Faueille^ a deep depression in the Jura 
chain, to the N.W. of Geneva. We follow the carriage-road by Femey to 
(8 hrs.) Oex (2120' ; H'^t. de la Poste \ Hdt. du Commerce), a small French 
town, at the foot of the Jura ; thence we proceed to (1 V^ hr.) the Fontaine 
NapoUon and the (»/4 hr.) Col de la Futteille (4355'; Inn). We keep to the 
road (to Horez, see above) for IV* hr. more, finally diverging to the right 
beyond the La Yasserode inn, whence we ascend to the summit in IV2 hr. 
Diligence from Les Rousses (see above) and Le Brassus, to the Lac de 
JouXf Le Lieu, and Le Pont, a pleasant route (comp. p. 198). 

Farther on , among trees , is the chateau of Pranginsj formerly 
occupied by Joseph Bonaparte. A great part of the estate of La Ber^ 
geriey or Chalet de PranginSy which once belonged to him, is now 
the property of Prince J^r6me Napoleon. The old chateau itself 
now contains a Moravian school for boys. 

On a promontory lies Promenihoux, and on the opposite bank, 
3M. distant, Yvoire (p. 231). The Jura Mts. gradually recede. The 
most conspicuous peaks are the D6le (see ahove), and to the right of 
it the Noir-Mont (5118'). The lake forms a bay between the mouth 
of the Promenthouse and the Auhonne (p. 220) beyond Rolle , and 
here attains its greatest width. The banks of this bay, called La 
Cdte, yield one of the best Swiss white wines. 

Itolle (*THe Noire, plain, with garden; Couronne), the birth- 
place of the Russian general Ldharpe, tutor of Emp. Alexander I., 
and one of- the most zealous advocates for the separation of Canton 
Yaud from Bern (1798). An«islet In the lake contains an Obeliik 

to his memory. 

On a vine-clad hill, 1 hr. K. of BoUe, above the village of Bougp, 
is the ^Signal de Bougy (2910'), a famous point of view, which commands 
the lake, the Savoy Mts., and Mont Blanc. The best way to it is from 
Stat. Aubonne-Allaman (p. 220) by omnibus or on foot to (11/4 M.) Aubonne 
(^Couronne), a very old and picturesque little town, with numerous gardens, 
a beautiful avenue, and pleasant public grounds, and thence on foot to the 
top in less than an hour. — About 5 M. to the W. of Aubonne, and 
6V3M. to the N. of Rolle, is Oimal (239&; Union pens, from 6 fr.), with 
beautiful wood-walks, a favourite summer resort of the Genevese. 

A road (diligence to St. Georges daily) leads from Rolle to the K.W. 

14* 



212 Routt 67. LAUSANNE. From Geneva 

by only, Burtigny^ and Longirod to (8 M.) 8t. Oeorgei (3067' ; Inn) and over 
the (4 M.) Ool de Harcheiruz (4767' ; Inn) to (4V2 M.) Le Brattut (p. 196). 
On the way from St. Georges to the col, we enjoy charming and varying 
views of the Lake of Geneva and the Rhone Valley down to the Fort de 
rEcluse, and between the col and Le Brasaus we overlook the Lac de Joux 
and the Dent de Vanlion. 

The bank of the lake between Rolle and Lausanne is somewhat 
flat. On a promontory lies the village of St. Prex ; then, in a wide 
bay, Morges (*H6t du Port; *H6t. du Montblane; Couronne), a 
a busy little town (pop. 3952), with a harbour and an old chateau 
now used as an arsenal. The medisval chateau of Vufflens, on a 
height at some distance to the N., is said to have been erected 
by Queen Bertha (p. 196). From Morges we obtain a fine view of 
*Mont Blanc in clear weather through a valley on the S. bank. The 
steamer next reaches — 

Ouchy (1230'), formerly called Rive^ the port of Lausanne. 

*H6t£l Beaurivage, with pleasant garden, baths, etc., B., L., & A. 5-7, 
D. 5, omnibus to the Lausanne station IVs fr. \ *'HdT. d'Akoleterss, B., 
L., & A. 31/2, B. 1^41 !>• 4 fr. ^ Hot. dd Port, small ^ all on the lake. 
Pens, du Chalet, Avenue Boseneck. — Lake Baih9, to the E. of the landing- 
place, 80 c, including towels, etc. — Boat 60 c. per hour, or with boat- 
man 172 fr. 

The Bailwat Station of the Western line (p. 220) is V4 M. from 
Ouchy, and Lausanne lies fully V^ ^- higher. Cable Bailwat (commonly 
called Ficelle) from Ouchy to Lausanne in 9 min. (Station at Ouchy near 
the steamboat quay ; station at Lausanne, called 'Gare du Flon\ under the 
Grand-Pont; 42 trains daily; fare 50 or 25 c, returnticket 80 or 40 c. : 
intermediate stations Jordils and St. Luee, the latter near the station of 
the W. railway; see above; to the left the trains to Lanaanne 10 e., to 
the right to Ouchy, 20 c). — Porterage of small articles to or from the 
steamer 10 c, trunk 20 c., if over 100 lbs. 30c. 

LaoBaime. — ^Hot. Gibbon (PI. a ; F, 4), opposite the post-office, B., 
L., & A. 4-6, B. IV2, lunch 3V2, D. 4 fr. ; in the garden behind the dining- 
room the historian Gibbon wrote the concluding portion of his great work 
in 1787; •Hot. Biche-Moht (PI. b; D, E, 6), with pleasant erounds, similar 
charges : *Faucon (PI. c ; F, 3) , B., L., & A. 4, B. 11/2, D. 3-4 fr. ; *H6t. du 
Grand Pont (Pl.d;E,4), near the bridge, B.,L.,£A. 3»/4, B. l*/*, D. 3V2fr.; 
Hot. Bxausitb (PI. e; D, 4), B., B., & A. 3M2, D. 3, B. li|4 fr.i •HdT.-PBNs. 
Victoria, Avenue de Bumine; *HdT. du i^ord (PI. f^ F, 3, 4), Bue St. 
Pierre, with restaurant, B., L., & A. 3, B. lV4fr.; Hot. des Xessaqeries, 
Place St. Francois 4 ; HdT. de la Poste , Pelit ChSne 4. — Pensions : 
Mme. RitscTMrdiyniHs MereierS), Beausi^our, Chatelanat, Monnard, Pavarin, 
'*BeUevuey Piguet-Bauty^ Campart^ and many others. — Bjsstaubants : *HOtel 
du Nord^ HOtel du Grand Pont^ see above,; * Casino ThMtre (see below); 
Deriaz, Place St. Laurent; Rail. Restaurant; Oambrinue (beer), Bue Haldi- 
mand, near tiie Place de la Biponne; Bavaria, Bue St. Fierre. — Theatre 
(PI. f ; open in winter only). Avenue di% Theatre (with caf^). 

Omnibus from the station into the town Vzf'-) hoz yztr. — Cab to 
the station 2fr. — Railway from Lausanne to the station and Ouchy. see 
above. — Bookseller^ with lending library, etc., Benda, Bue Centrale 3. 
Th. Roussy, Bue de Bourg. — Pianoe, music : E. B. Spiess, Gr. Chftne 5. 

English Church, Avenue de Grancy. Beottieh Free Church, Bue Bu- 
mine. Weeleyan Chvreh, Bue du Valentin, Place de la Biponne. 

Lausanne (1689'; pop. 30,179), the Lausonium of the Romans, 
now the capital of the Canton de Vaud, occupies a beautiful and 
commanding situation on the terraced slopes of Mont Jorat, over- 
shadowed by its cathedral on one side, and its castle on the other. 
The interior of the town is less prepossessing. The streets are hilly 



toMarUgny. LAUSANNE. 66. R<mte. 213 

and irregular, and the houses in the older part are poor ; but the 
new quarters contain a number of handsome houses. The two 
quarters are connected by the handsome ^Chrand^Pont, erected in 
1839-44, also named Ponir-Fichard after its builder. The nearly 
level street, passing the castle and cathedral, constructed by him 
skirts the town and leads under the castle to the N. by a tunnel, 
50 paces long. Lausanne possesses many excellent schools. 

The *Cathedral (PI. 6 ; Prot.), erected in 1235-75, and con- 
secrated by Gregory X. in presence of Rudolph of Hapsburg , is a 
simple but massive Gothic edifice. Since 1875 it has been under- 
going restoration in accordance with plans by Viollet-le-Duc. The 
terrace on which it stands is approached from the market-place 
(Place de la Palud) by a flight of 160 steps. The sacristan (mar- 

guUlier) lives to the left (N.) of the principal entrance, No. 5. 

In 1536 a famous Disputation took place in this church, in which 
Calvin, Farel, and Virei participated, and which resulted in the removal of the 
episcopal see to Freibui^, the separation of Vaud from the Romish Church 
and the overthrow of the supremacy of Savoy. The *Ints»iob (352' long, 
ld(y wide) is remarkable for its symmetry of proportion. The vaulting 
of the nave, 66' in height, is supported by 20 clustered columns of dif- 
ferent designs. Above the graceful triforium runs another arcade, which 
serves as a framework for the windows. The choir contains a semicircular 
colonnade. In the arcades of the choir-ambulatory appears an ancient form 
of pilaster, a relic of the Bux^undian-Bomanesque style. The beautiful 
but sadly damaged rose-window and the sculptured portals also merit in- 
spection. (The W. portal is in a ruinous condition; the S. portal was re- 
stored in 1884.) Above the centre of the church rises a slender tower, erect- 
ed in 1875. The finest Momum£Ntb are those of Duk€ Victor Amadeut VIII. 
of Savoy (d. 1451), whom the Council of Bale elected pope under the title 
of Felix V. ; fartilier on in the choir are monuments to Otto of Grand- 
son (?) who fell in a judicial duel (hands on the cushion, a symbol of the 
ban; statue accidentally deprived of its hands); Bishop OuUlaume de 
Menthonex (d. 1406) *, the Russian Frincess Orloff (d. 1782) ; the Duchess 
Caroline of Curland (d. 1783); Harriet Stratford-Canning (d. 1818), first wife 
of Lord Stratford de Redcliffe, then ambassador in Switzerland (by Barto- 
lini); Countess Wallmoden Gimbom (d. 1783), mother of the Baroness of 
Stein, the wife of the celebrated Prussian minister. A tablet on the wall 
of the If. transept near these monuments bears the inscription: ^A la mi- 
moire du Major Davel, mort sur Vichafaud en 1723^ le 24 Avrily martyr des 
droits et de la liberti du peuple Vaudois\ a tribute paid to his memory by 
Gen. Laharpe (p. 211), who effected that for attempting which Davel was 
beheaded as a traitor. 

The Terr ace J formerly the churchyard, commands the town, 
the lake, and the Alps of Savoy ; and the prospect is more extensive 
from the top of the tower, 162' high. The view from the terrace of 
the old episcopal Castle (PI. 7 ; now the Cantonal Council Hall), 
higher up, is also very fine. This building, erected in the 13th cent., 
has been repeatedly altered. 

The Cantonal Husenm (PI. 1; Wed. and Sat. 10-4, Sun. 
11-2 o'clock), in the College near the cathedral, contains natural 
history collections, a valuable collection of freshwater conchylia, 
presented by M. de Charpentier (d. 1855), relics from Aventicum 
(p. 196) and Yidy , the ancient Lausanne , and interesting Celtic 
antiquities from lake-dwellings. 



214 Bottle 65. VEVEY. From Geneva 

The Kute Arlaud (PI. 9; San., 11-3, Wed. and Sat. 11-2; at 
other times, 1 fr.), founded by an artist of that name in 1846, in 
a building in the Riponne opposite the corn-hall (Orenette), con- 
tains a few pictures by old masters and several good modern works : 
Calamt, Lake of Brienz ; Diday, Rosenlaui ; Oleyre. Execution of 
Major Davel (see above), and Battle on the Lake of Geneva. 

On the Montbexiony a hill immediately to the W. of the town, 
planted with fine avenues, and affording a charming view of the 
lake, is situated the handsome new Tribunal FidSral, or supreme 
court of appeal for the whole of Switzerland. 

The admirably organised Blind iUyliim (Asile des AveugUs), 
to the W. of the town (PI. A, 3), was founded by Mr. Haldimand 
(d. 1862) , who amassed a fortune in England. — In the Champ de 
VAir, to the N.E., rises the well-arranged HOpital Cantonal (260 
beds). — At Cery^ 2 M. to the N., on the line to Echallens (see 
below), is the handsome Lunatic Asylum » one of the largest and 
best on the continent, containing a chapel, concert-room, etc. 

The *'Bigiial (2126'), Vsl^'* fthove the town, is a famous point of view. 
From the post-office to the castle Vi ^v- i then cross the tunnel-bridge and 
follow the road to the left for about 100 paces ^ ascend to the right by a 
paved path, and thence by a flight of steps on the left to the carriage-road ; 
follow this to the right till the hut with the trigonometrical pyramid and 
grounds are seen on the right. (This point may also be reached by a broad 
path diverging from the road to the right.) The view embraces a great part 
of the lake. Hont Blanc is not visible from this point, but is seen from 
the Orandes Roches (i/t hr. from the town, to the right of the Tverdon road), 
another charming point of view. — The best way back from the Signal is 
through the wooded valley of the Flon, on the E. side of the hill, and 
then by the Rue des Eaux to the point whence we started at the K. base 
of the castle. This route is preferable for the ascent also in hot weather. 
Cab from the town to the Signal, and thence to the station, 6fr. 

Fbou Lausanne to Echallens, 8^/4 M., a local narrow-gauge railway 
(56 min.). The lunatic asylum mentioned above is near (2 M.) Jouxtens- 
Cery^ the second station, es/4 M. EehalUnt (2064' •, 1079 inhab. ; ^Balances) 
is a thriving little town, with an old castle now used as a boys'* school. 
The line is to be continued to Payerne (p. 196). 

The slopes rising above the villages of Lutry^ CuUy, and 8t. 
Saphorin are named La Vaux, and yield good wine. The vine- 
yards are tended with the utmost care. Between Ouchy and Lutry, 
on the hillside, is the lofty viaduct crossing the PaudHe (p. 196), 
below which is the bridge of the S.W. Railway (p. 220). The 
amphitheatre of mountains becomes grander as the steamboat ad- 
vances: the Rochers deVerraux, Dent de Jaman, Rochers de Naye, 
Tour d*Ai, Tour de Mayen , Dent de Morcles, and Dent du Midi ; 
between these, to the S., Mont Oatogne, and in the background 
the snowy pyramid of Mt. Velan. 

Vevey, Ger. Vivis^ the Vibiscus of the Romans. 

Steamboat Piers : (1) Corsier , to the W., near the Grand Hdtel de 
Vevey; (2) VBVBy-Marchiy at the town itself; (3) Vevey-lO'Toury to theS., 
near the Grand Hdtel du Lac. 

Sailway Station on the N. side of the town, on the left bank of the 
Veveyse. For excursions to the E. (Hontreux, etc.) the station of Za Tour 
de Peilz (p. 216) is more convenient. 

Hotels. ^HOtbl Momnet (de* TroU Couronnee) and *Gbano Hot. db 



to Martigny. VEVEY. 66. BouU. 215 

yBYET, at Cortier, to the W. of the town ; "H^sand Hdx. du Lac, to the 
E. of Monnet^s; these three hotels, all on the lake, are large and com- 
fortable: R., L., & A. from 5, D. 5 fr. ; pension from 15th Oct. to Ist May. 
To the £. of the town, *'HdT. Moosbb (p. 216). — 'Hot. d'Akglbtskbe 
(B., L., A A SVs) D. 3, pens, by*-! fr.) and 'Hot. du LftM an, also on the 
lake; ^Tbois Rois, moderate, not far from the station, B. & A. 2i]2, B. 1, 
D. 8 fr.; HdTBL du Post, at the station, wiUi garden; Hotel db la 
PoBTB, Bue du Casino, for single gentlemen. — Pennons, see p. 216. 

Oofes. Oinfd du Lac^ BeUevue, des Alpet; all on the quay; Ca/i du 
l%idire\ Breuterie Trafflt. — Coindet, dealer in preserved meats, etc., Bue 
des Deux Marches. 

Lake Baths at the E. end of the town, beyond the Hdt. du Lac (6-8 
and 2-5 for ladies only). 

Post and Telegraph Offtoe * Place de TAncien Port. — Bankers : Oeo. 
QlcUy Rue du Leman ; A, Cuinod Churchill, Place du March^ 21. 

Omnibus from the station to the hotels 20, box 10 c. ; to La Tour-de- 
Peilz 90, box 15 c. ; to Ghexbres from the post-office 1 fr. (see p. 195). — 
Oab with one horse, per drive in the town IVsi with two horses 2fr. ; 
V«hr. !•/« or 2 fr., 1 hr. 3 or 4fr., for every V«l»r. more 1 or IV^fr. 

Bowing-boats at the quay and the Grande Place, 1 fr. per hr.; with 
one rower 2, with two rowers 3 fr. ; to Ghillon 6 or 10 fr. ; to St. Gingolph 
(p. 232) same charges ; to Meillerie (p. 282) 12 or 15 fr. 

Bookseller. Benda^ Hotel Monnet (also music, etc.). Pianos at Ratten- 
berger's (also at Montreux and Bex). — Theatre, Bue des Anciens Foss^. 

Bnglish Ohnrch at the E. end of the town. 

Vevey (1263'), charmingly situated at the influx of the Veveyse, 
with 7820 inhab. , is the second town in the Canton de Vaud, and owes 
much of its repute to the writings of Rousseau. The small terrace hy 
the market (Grande Place), the quay, and the new, turreted Chdteau 
ofM. Couvreu (beautiful garden with exotic plants, fee 1 fr.) overlook 
a great part of the scene of the ^Nouvelle Hiloi8t\ the ^burning 
pages' of which accurately describe it. To the E. La Tour de Peilz, 
Glarens, Montreux, and Chillon are visible ; next. YiUeneuve and 
the mouth of the Rhone; in the background the Alps of Yalais, 
the Dent du Midi, Mont Yelan, and Mont Catogne (the ^Sugar- 
loaf) ; on the S. bank of the lake, the rocks of Meillerie, overshad- 
owed by the Dent d'Oche ; and to the left, at the foot of the Gram- 
mont, St. Gingolph (p. 232). The Quai Sina affords a beautiful 
walk, sheltered from the N. wind. Near the station is the ^Russian 
Chapel with its gilded dome, nearly opposite which is the Ecolt 
des Jeunes Filles, At the E. end of the town are the handsome Bom. 
Caih. Church and the English Church. 

The Ghubch op St. Mabtin, erected in 1498, on a vine-clad 
hill (^Terrasse du Panorama^) outside the town, surrounded by lime 
and chestnut- trees, commands a charming view (see the ^Indicateur 
des Montagnes^y Service in summer only. 

In this church repose the remains of the regicides Ludlow Cpoi^tatit 
arbitrariae oppugnator aeerrimtu", as the marble tablet records) and Brough- 
ton. The latter read the sentence to King Charles i^digntUus fuii senten- 
tiam regis regum profari, quam ob causam expulsus patria sua* is the in- 
scription on his monument). On the restoration of Charles II., that monarch 
demanded the extradition of the refugees, a request with wliich the Swiss 
government firmly refused to comply. Ludlow''s House, which stood at the 
£. end of the town, has been removed to make way for an addition to the 
H6tel du Lac. The original inscription chosen by himself, *Omne solum forti 
patria\ was purchased and removed by one of his descendants. 



216 Route 65, CLARENS. From Geneva 

The chateau of *BaiiteTiUe , 2 M. to the K.E. of Vevey, with an 
admirably kept park, commands a beautiful view from the terrace and 
the temple. In the same direction, 2 M. higher, is the mediseyal chateau 
of Blonaji which has belonged the family of that name for centuries. The 
road from Hauteville to Blonay passes through the villages of St. Ligier 
(Pens. B^guin; Pens, des Alpes) and La ChiSscu, many houses in whi<^ 
are adorned with clever sketches by A. B^uin, a native of the place, now 
an artist in Paris. In returning , we may descend by a path to the right 
beyond the bridge to the carriage-road below, which leads to (1 M.) Chailly 
(p. 217), (1 M.) the bridge of Tavel, below the Chdteau det CrSlea (see below), 
and (Vj M.) the Clarens station. — About 1 hr. to the N.E. of Blonay are 
the Pleiades (4488'), a famous point of view (anbei^e near the top), at the 
£. base of which, >/« hr. from ^the top, are the small sulphur-baths of 
VAlliax (3428'; pens. 4-5 fr.). 

The tower among the trees on the lake farther on, the Tour de 

Peilz (Turria Peliana)y said to have been built by Peter of Savoy in 

the 13th cent., was once the seat of a court of justice, and was 

afterwards used as a prison. The neighbouring chateau of Af. Rigaud 

contains a collection of ancient weapons. 

From Vevey to Freiburg, see R. 61 i over the Jaman to Chateau d'Oex, 
p. 228. — Pleasant excursion to St. Qingolph (p. 232; IVs br. by boat), on 
foot to Novell in the valley of the Morge, and thence to the top of the 
Blanchard (p. 232). Inns at St. Gingolph and Novel very poor; the trav- 
eller should bring provisions from Vevey. 

On the lake, 372 M. from Vevey, lies the beautiful village of 
Clarens (^English Church Service in winter) , immortalised by 
Rousseau. On a height to the W. rises the * Chdteau des Crites, 
built by M. Dubochet (see below), with its pleasant grounds, and a 
beautiful view from the terrace (visitors admitted). Adjoining it 
is a chestnut copse, called Les Crttes, or the ^Bosquet de JuUe\ 
Rousseau's 'Bosquet', however, has long since disappeared, having 
been, according to Lord Byron, uprooted by the monks of St. Bernard 
to make way for their vineyards. Splendid view from above Clarens, 
near the churchyard , and also from the terrace of the chateau of 
Chdtelard (at Tavel, V4 ^^' ^ *^® N.), which gives its name to the 
W. part of Montreux (p. 217). Between Clarens and Vernex is the 
new Qerman Protestant Churchy with its slender tower. 

Penaiima abound on this favourite S.E. bay of the Lake of Geneva. 
The best-known are here mentioned in their order from Vevey. Charges 
often raised in the busy season. 

At Vevey: Hdt.-Pens. du CAdtea« (6-8 fr.), three houses E. of the Hdtel 
M onnet , with a large shady garden and a view of the lake ; Pens, Wolff 
(4-6 fr.), Bue des Promenades, recommended tu ladies; du Lac; du Pano- 
rama ^ at the back of the town; Hdtel et Pens. Mooser^ at Chemenin, 10 
min. above Vevey, charming view (6-10 fr.). At St. L^er: Pens. Biguin; 
des Alpes. — At La Tour db PbiIiZ, near Vevey: Pens. Comte; des Alpes; 
Riant-Site; Mon Disir. 

Near Clarens , 'ad Basset' : *Pens. Ketterer^ sheltered. This is the 
beginning of the region which, being sheltered from the 'Bise^ or bitter 
N. wind, is often recommended to persons with delicate lungs as a winter 
residence. The gay cluster of 22 villas near Clarens was built and fitted 
up by M. Dubochet of Paris (d. 1877), at a cost of 2V2 million francs. 
They now belong to Mde. Amaud, and are let furnished for 3 months or 
upwards at rents varying from 4000 to 8,(XX) fr. per annum (apply to the 
'r^isseur'). — At Clabbns: on the left, Beausite; on the right, *Pens. 
Verte-Rive (5-7 fr.); on the left. Pens. Moser (5fr.); on the right, "HOtel 



toMartiffny, MONTREUX. 65. Route, 217 

Both^ witli » garden on the lake. At the station : ^ffdtel des Crete* (5-6 fr.) ; 
*'IIdtel du Chdtelard (6 fr. ; good cuisine). ~ At Chaillt (1580'), 1 M. above 
the Clarens station, and about SOCK above the lake, *'Peni. Mury^ with pleas- 
ant garden. At Brent, IVa M. above Chailly, Pent. Dufour (small and quiet). 
At Chamex, 1^12 H. above Clarens, Pen$, Dufour- Cochard (5 fr.; well spoken 
oO* — Between Clarens and Vsbnex (all on the lake): '*H6tel Roy, with 
pleasant garden; "Pent. Oermann; Clarentzia; Pent. Richelieu (6S fr.), oppo- 
site the new Gtothic English Church (unflnished) ; *Lorius (three houses ; 
6 fr. and upwards), with fine garden. 

At Kontrenx-Yemez : On the left, ^Cyffne, R. A A. SVz, B. IV2, A. 3/4, 
pens. 6-8 ft*.: *Pens. Pilivet; on the right, ^Afonney (5V2-8V2 fr.) ; *Beau-Sijour 
au Lac (adjoining which is a bath-house); Bon-AccueH; all on the lake; 
''Hdtel Suitse (5V2 fr.), on the opposite side of the road, with a garden on 
the lake ; BeauUeu. At the station, Hdtet A Pens, de Montreux (iVa^V^ ^r.) ; 
Hdt. Pent. Bellevue (4V2 fr); J5W'«2 Victoria; H6tel de la Gare; Pens. 
Ramseyer; Pens. Bel- Air. By the steamboat-pier, Hdt.'Rettaur. Tonhalle. 

— Preserved meats, etc., sold by Miautit. Beer at the Tonhalle and at 
Margueft. — Bazaar Wanner, with a good and varied stock. — Strangers 
Enquiry Office at the College (ground-floor, to the right). — /SfcAmfd/, chemist. 

— Benda^s book-shop and library. Tuition of all kinds easily obtained. 

In BoMrORT, on the Territet road (where the Kursaal is on the right, 
see below ; adm. 1 fr. ; weekly subscription 3, monthly 10, quarterly 20fr.), 
on the lake, farther to the 8.E. : on the left, *H6t. de Paris; *Hdtel Na- 
tional, with a terrace high above the lake, 7-10 fr. On the right, *H6t.-Pent. 
Seau-Rivaffe(8piekner), *H6t. P.Brever^ both with gardens on the lake; ViUa 
Elitaheth ; *Pent. Bohpotf. The five last, Va ^* from the station, command 
a fine view. — In the Village of Hontbeuz, 1/2^* from the lake and 
the station: *Pent, Visinand; ^Mooter (6 fr.), Biensis, and • FawWer (7-8 fr.), 
all with a fine view. 

At Territet (to the E. of stat. Territet-Glion). *mui des Alpes, 90 
rooms (from 2 fr.) and ^salons^ (6-10 fr.), D. 5fr., pens, from 7fr.; d^pen- 
dance in the garden, with suites of apartments for families. *H&tel Mont- 
Fleury, finely situated, with grounds (pens. 6-8 fr.). — HOtel du LaCy 
small; * HOtel d^Angleterre; Pent. Mounoud; Pent. Villa Rosa. 

At Veytanx. *Hdtel Bonivard, R., L., ft A. *Masson (4-5 fr.), adjoined 
by a villa with furnished rooms; Pens. Boand; Villa Clos de Orand- 
champ; Pens. Chillon, near the castle. — Between Chillon and Ville- 
NEUVB, the handsome *n6tel Byron, (6-9 fr.), finely situated (omnibus from 
the Villeneuve station, p. 220). 

At OliOB (2254'; cable tramway, see below). *H6tel Righi-Vaudoit (pens. 
8-12 fr.); *Hdtel Victoria (6V2-IO fr.), beautifuUy situated; *H6tel du Midi, 
SOtel de Olion and others, about 5 fr., generally closed in winter. 

Most of these pensions receive passing travellers at hotel-charges, but 
in autumn they are generally full. At many other houses rooms with or 
without board may also be obtained. The G&afx Cusb begins towards 
the end of September and lasts about a month. — Aiqlx (p. 220) and Bex 
(p. 221) are also pleasant resorts in early summer and in autumn. In 
the height of summer, when the heat on the lake and in the valley of 
the Rhone becomes overpowering, the pensions at Ch&teau d''Oex (p. 229), 
Ormoni Dettut (p. 225), Villart (p. 221), etc., are much frequented. Similar 
pensions at Oeneva, see p. 199. 

Clarena, Chamtx, Vemex, OlUm, Colongea, Veytaux, and the 
other villages which lie scatteTed about, partly on the lake and 
partly on the hill-side, are collectively called Xontreux. This 
district is divided into three parts, Chdtelard, Les Planches, and 
Veyteaux, by the brook (Baie) of Montrenx and the Veraye. The 
central point of the district Is the village of Montreux- Vemex, on 
the lake, with a railway-station and steamboat-pier. About 74 ^• 
from the S. end of it is the Kursaal, where a hand plays In the 
afternoon (adm. see above) ; opposite is the new Reman Catholic 



218 Route 65. CHILLON. From Geneva 

Church, in the Romanesque style. Higher np, at the foot of the 
mountain, lies the village of Montreux, with the quaint old Parish 
Church (3/4 M. from the station of Yernex-Montreux and as far 
from that of Territet), which commands a superb and far-famed 
*View of the lake (mountain indicator). 

ExcuKsioNS FBOM MoNTBSux. To GUoB (22540) loftily situated at the 
back of Montreux , with a beautiful view of the' lake . a cable-tramway 
ascends in 8 min., starting from the Territet-Olion station on the Western 
Railway (21 trains daily ; fare 1, return-ticket iVa ir.). The line, con- 
structed by Hr. Biggenbach on the same system as the Giessbach tram- 
way, but much steeper, is about 750 yds. long, the maximum gradient 
being 1 : IVi* At the top is the Buffet de la Station (view). Adjacent is the 
garden of the Hotel Eighi-Vaudois (see above), which commands a delight- 
ful survey of the upper end of the Lake of Geneva and the mountains 
enclosing it, with the snow-clad Dent du Midi in the centre. The garden 
of the Villa Nestle is worth seeing (visitors admitted). Pleasant way 
back through the Gorge du Chaudron (see below) to the village of Mon- 
treux in 1 hr. (enquire for beginning of path). From Glion the Mont 
Caux (393T') may be ascended in iV4 hr. — To the '^Oorge du Chaudron, 
a wooded ravine between Olio* and Sonzier, watered by a brook called the 
JBaie de Montreux. From the bridge of Montreux to the gorge, and back, 
1 hr., or returning by Glion 2Vs hours. The path enters the gorge from 
near the Pens. Vautier at Lee Planehee. — From GhjUon by Champ Babau 
to (1 hr.) Veytaux (see above). — "^Bocher do Nayo (6706'), the S. neigh- 
bour of the Jaman ; ascent 4, descent 3 hrs. ; view embracing the Bernese 
range, the Valais, and Savoy; Mont Blanc only partially visible. Easiest 
ascent by Glion, Mont Caux, and Chamoeallee (auberge in the lower and in 
the upper chalet); another track over the wooded ridge of Mont JSonehaud 
(guide desirable). — Mont Cu&M (3940'), N.E. of Sonzier; to the summit and 
back 4 hrs. — To Les Avant* (Hot. des Avants), road by Sonzier in 3 hrs. 
(omnibus in 3V2 hrs., 4 fr., down 3 fr. ; carriage with one horse 12, with 
two horses 22 fr.), see p. 22B. — By Charuex and ChavMn to the Bains 
de VAlliaz and the Pleiades (4488'), returning by Blonay (p. 216), 8 hrs. — 
By Aigle to the Ormonts, see B. 66. — To * Villart, see p. 221. — Ascent 
of the Jaman, see p. 228. Mules may be hired. — To the JHssevache and 
Gorge du Trient (p. 223) by railway, and back, in one day. 

Stat. TerriUt'ChiUon (♦H6t. des Alpes, etc. ; see p. 2iT). The 
*Ca8tle of GhiUon, with its massive walls and towers, ^/^ M. from 
the pier (8/4 M. from stat. Territet- Glion ; V4M. from stat. Vey- 
taux-OhiUon), stands on an isolated rock 22 yds. from the bank, 
with which it is connected by a bridge, but the strait is now dry. 
^Ghillon ! thy prison is a holy place. 
And thy sad floor an altar, — for Hwas trod. 
Until his very steps have left a trace, 
Worn, as if the cold pavement were a sod, 
By Bonivard! — may none those marks efface, 
For they appeal f^om tyranny to God."* 
The author of these beautiful lines has invested this spot with 
much of the interest niiiich attaches to it, but it is an error to identify 
Bonivard, the victim to the tyranny of the Duke of Savoy, and c<nifined by 
him in these gloomy dungeons for six years, with Byron's ^Prisoner of 
Chillon'' (composed by him in the Anchor Inn at Ouchy in 1817). The author 
calls his poem a fable, and when he composed it he was not aware of the 
history of Bonivard , or he would, as he himself states, have attempted to 
dignify the subject by an endeavour to celebrate his courage and virtue. 
Francis Bonivard was bom in 149&. He was the son of Louis Bonivard, Lord 
of Lune, and at thd age of sixteen inherited from his uncle the rich priory 
of St. Victor , close to the walls of Geneva. The Duke of Savoy having at- 
^acked the republic of Geneva, Bonivard warmly .'espoused its cause, and 
hereby incurred the relentless hostility of the Duke , who caused him to 



to Martigny. YILLENEUYE. 66, BouU. 219 

be seised and imprUoned in the castle of Oroide, where he remained two 
years. On regaining his liberty he returned to his priory , but in 1528 he 
was again in arms against those who had seized his ecclesiastical revenues. 
The city of Geneva supplied him witii munitions of war, in return for which 
Bonivard parted with his birthright, the revenues of which were applied by 
the Oenevese to the support of the city hospital. He was afterwards em- 
ployed in the service of the republic, but in 1580 when travelling between 
Moudon and Lausanne fell into the power of his old enemy, the Duke of 
Savoy, who confined him in the castle of Chillon. In 1536 he was liberated 
by the Bernese and Oenevese forces under Kogelin, and returning to the 
republic, he spent the rest of his life as a highly respected citizen. He died 
in 1570 at the age of 74 years. 

AboTe the entrance are the arms of the Canton de Yaud. The 
rooms with their old wooden ceilings, the dungeons with their pillars 
and arches, and the other reminiscences of the time of the dukes of 
SaToy are interesting. A fine effect is produced by the beams of 
the setting sun streaming through the narrow loopholes into these 
sombre precincts. Among the thousands of names inscribed on the 
pillars are those of Byron , Eugene Sue, George Sand, and Victor 
Hugo. (Adm. 1 fr.) 

It is an historical fact that in 830 Louis le D^onnaire incarcerated 
the Abbot Wala of Gorvey, who had instigated his sons to rebellion, in 
a castle from which only the sky, the Alps, and Lake Leman were visible 
(Perts, Montun. U, p. 666); this could hare been no other than the 
Castle of Chillon. Count Peter of Savoy improved and fortified the castle 
in the 13th cent., and it now stands much as he left it. The strong 
pillars in the vaults are in the early-Bomanesque style, and belonged to the 
original edifice. The Counts of Savoy frequently resided in the castle, 
and it was subsequently converted into a state-prison. Since 1798 it has 
been used as a military arsenal. 

Between Chillon and Yilleneuve, on the slope of the hill , is 

the handsome H6Ul Byron (p. 217). The He de Paix, an islet 30 

paces long and 20 wide, Va M. to the W. of Yilleneuve, and Vi M. 

from the S. bank, commanding a fine view, was laid out and planted 

with three elms by a lady a century ago^ and recalls Byron's lines : — 

^And then there was a little isle, 
Which in my very face did smile, 
The only one in view.* 

In the E. bay of the lake, 11/2 ^' ^'om Chillon, lies Viileneuye 
(*H6t, du Port; *H6U de VUU), a small walled town, the PtnniUicuay 
or Penneloei of the Romans. The 'Clos des Moines' is a good wine 
grown here. (Railway-station, see p. 220.) 

Footpath to Hontbovon (p. 228) over the Col de la Tintkrt (5341') in 
4Va hrs., to Chftteau d'Oex (p. 229) in 6 hrs. 



RaiiiWAT Jor&NET. OtMVQf soo p. 198. The train runs high 
above the lake, overlooking the hills on the E. bank with their nu- 
merous vi11a«, abore which rises the long ridge of the Yolrons and 
in clear weather Mont Blanc. 2^2 M. Charnbisy ; 4 M. Genthod- 
BellcDut; 51/2 M. Venoix (p. 210); 8V2 M. Coppet (p. 210), At 
(11 M.) CSligny the D6le (p. 211) becomes yisible to the left. Be- 
yond (I4V2 M.) Nyon (p. 210) the line skirts Prangins with its 
chateau, and then quits the bank of the lake. 



220 BouU 65. AIOLE. From Geneva 

The tract of country between the Promenthoustf which the train 
crosses near (17V2 M.) Olandy and the Aubonne (see below) is 
called La C6te and is noted foi its wine. 20 M. Gilly-Bursinel ; 
21 1/2 M. SoUe (p. 211). The height to the left is the Signal de 
Bougy (2910'; p. 211), a splendid point of riew, easily reached 
from Rolle or from the next stat. (25 M.) Aubonne^Allaman. 

The train crosses the Aubonne and returns to the lake. 28 M. 
SL Prex; the village lies on a promontory below, on the right. 
From (301/2 M') Morgei (p. 212; station 8 min. from pier) Mont 
Blanc is seen in all its majesty in clear weather, but soon disap- 
pears. In the distance to the N.W., above the valley of the Morges^ 
which the train crosses here, is the chllteau of Vufflen$ (p. 212). 

The line again leaves the lake, crosses the Venoge, and joins 
the Neuch4tel railway (p. 192). 3572 R^nens. 

38 M. LauMume (Rail, Restaurant), see p. 212. 

The train (views on the right) skirts the lake the greater part of 
the way to Yillenenve. We cross the Paudeze by a handsome bridge 
(above which , to the left , is the lofty nine-arched viaduct of the 
Freiburg line, p. 195), pass through a short tunnel, and skirt the 
vine-clad slopes of La Vaux (p. 214). 42 M. Lutry. 

From (44 M.) CuUy (p. 214) to (47 M.) Rivaz-St-Saphorin the 
train runs close to the lake, then quits it, and crosses the Veveyse, 
50 M. Vevey (p. 214); 5OV2 M. La Tour de PeUz (p. 216) ; 52 M. 
Burier; then a tunnel, beyond which we obtain a fine view of Mont- 
treux, Chillon, and the E. bay of the lake. 53 M. Clarens (p. 216). 

54 m. Kontrenz - Vemez (p. 217), beyond which we again 
approach the lake. 55 M. Temte<-&2tan (Caf^-Restauf, and small 
bazaar), immediately above the steamboat - pier Territet- Chillon 
(p. 21 o), and the starting-point of the cable-tramway to Olion 
(p. 217). 551/2 M. Fey<tf«i-Cfc«ton(p.217; Caf^ Einholtz) is 1/4 M. 
from the castle of Chillon. 

57 M. Yillezienye, see p. 219. The train now enters the broad 
and somewhat marshy i2ftone Valley, bounded by high mountains. 
The Rhone flows into the lake 3 M. to the W., near Bouveret. Its 
grey waters, the deposits of which have f<Mnned an extensive alluvial 
tract, present a marked contrast to the crystalline azure of the same 
river where it rushes through the bridges at Geneva. 

The first station in the Rhone Valley is (59^2 M.) Roche. 
Part of the mountain near Yvome (1561'), to the left, was pre- 
cipitated on the village by an earthquake in 1584. Excellent wine is 
grown in the gorge ('Grosex-Grilltf ' and ^Maison Blanche' or 'Clos 
du Rocher'). To the right towers the jagged Dent du Midi (p. 233). 

63 M. Aigle. — *Gbakd HStbl, on the hill IV4 H. above Aigle, with 
extensive grounds, and suitable for a prolonged stay, R., L., ft A. 3Vs) 
B. IV2, D. 4, pens. 6-10 fr. — *Pb»s. Bbai7-Sitb, at the station; *Viciokia, 
opposite the ^post-office^ with d^pendance and garden, moderate; Hot. do 
Midi and Hot. du Nord, both unpretending. — English Church Service 
at the Grand Hotel. 



to MarUgny, AIGLE. 65. BouU. 221 

Aigle (1375'; pop. 3371), a small town with a large chateau, 
is prettily situated on the turhulent Grande-Eau, 

The Plantour (1604'; see below), a hill Va ^r. to the E., with a tower 
(GGf high) of Roman origin and grounds, affords charming views of the 
Rhone Valley. 

ViLLAKS, 31/4 hrs. E. of Aigle, 2V2 hrs. above Ollon (see below), a very 
favourite summer resort, lies on the hill-side, high above the right bank 
of the Rhone. It is best reached from Aigle (carr. 15, with two horses 
30 fr. and fee; a drive of 3 hrs.*, diligence daily in SVz-^ hrs.), as the 
hotel and other accommodation at Ollon is poor. High-road to (2 M.) 
Ollon (Hotel de Ville); thence a good road in numerous windings, 
with fine views. Pedestrians follow the old road, which diverges to 
the left from the new immediately above Ollon. After 2 min., 
where the path divides , we follow that to the extreme right. At 
(40 min.) La Pousaz we take the path to the left, by the second 
fountain, in the middle of the village ; 35 min. ffuemoz (BSOT; pron. Wems 
by the natives), charmingly situated ; V2 ^'' Chesiire (SOTC; "Hotel du Cha- 
mossaire, moderate), with beautiful view; Va l^r. Yillars (4186'; B6t.- 
Pens. Breuer^ R. & A. 2, B. IV4, S. 21/2 fr.; a little farther on, *Orand 
Muveran ; ^Bellevue, a little higher up ; pension in each 6-8 fr.). Magni- 
ficent view of the Rhone valley, the Petit and Grand Moeveran, the Dent 
de Morcles, the N. spurs of the Mont Blanc group with the (jlacier du 
Trient, the Dent du Midi, etc. Pleasant park-like environs, affording a variety 
of walks. The finest excursion is the ascent (21/2-3 hrs. ; guide unnecessary) 
of the ^Ohamoisaire (6949'), which commands a most picturesque view 
of the Bernese Alps, the Weisshom, the Diablerets, Grand Moeveran, Dent 
de Morcles, Mont Blanc, Dent du Midi, Valley of the Rhone, and Sepey. 
The route is by a cart-track nearly to Bretaye (1 hr. from the top), a 
little below which we ascend by a path to the left to the stone signal on 
the summit. — From Bretaye a tolerable path leads past Uie small lakes 
det Chaletty Noir^ and "d«« C!%ava»n««, to (2 hrs.) La Fwclaz (4144'), and 
crossing the Grande Eau, to O/s hr.), Le Sepey (p. 226). We may return to 
Villars the same day by carriage, via Aigle; or the next day on foot by 
Au Pont, Flamhuit^ and Chesih'e (see above). — From Villars to Ormont- 
Dessus^ over the Col de la Croia (5174'), 4 hrs. ; guide (6 fr.) unnecessary, if 
the traveller is shown the beginning of the route (comp. p. 226)> — From 
Villars by Arveye to Oryon (p. 230), 1 hr. 

From- Aigle a road leads by Tvome (p. 220) to (2 hrs.; one-horse 
carr. 8, two-horse 15 fr.) Corbeyri«r (3236'; HOU-Pens, DubuU, 5 fr.), a village 
in a sheltered situation, with &ae views. The Sianal (V4 hr.) overlooks the 
Khone Valley from St. Maurice to the Lake of Geneva; more extensive 
view, particularly of the Tour Salli^res and Dent du Midi, from the plateau 
Aux Agittes (4997'; bridle-path, IVahr.). The ascent of the Tourde May en 
(7621*), from Corbeyrier by the Alp Luan and At in 3^8 hrs., presents no 
difficulty. The Tour d'At (7818') is fit for experts only. 

From Aiglb to the Obmonts (p. 226), a pleasant excursion (one-horse 
carr. to Sepey 10, to Ormont-Dessus 15 fr. and fee of 1 fr. ; diligence to 
Sepey daily in 274 brs., to Ormont-Dessus in 5V2br8.; comp. p. !£j5). At- 
tractive route for walkers from Aigle vi& Leysin (4150') to Sepey, 3V2 hrs. 
(comp. p. 226; recommended for returning). 

Between Aigle and (65 M.) OHon-St-Triphonj ou the left, rises 
the Plantour with its tower (see ahOTe). The village of St, Triphon 
lies on the S. slope of the hill, 1 M. from the railway; OUon is 
1 M. higher up, to the N.E. (Road to Villars 2V2 ^rs> ^ee above.) 
A finger-post Indicates the road from the station to the right to 
Colonibey (p. 233) on the left bank of the Rhone. 

68 M. Bez. — *OBA]n> HdTXL des Saunxb, with salt and other baths, 
and a well-equipped hydropathic establishment, in a fine sheltered situa^ 
tion, IV2M. from the station, R., L., & A. 3V2-5, D. 4-5, pens. 6-12 fr.; 
adjacent, *Hot.-Pen8. Villa des Bains; in the village, *Ukion, moderate ; 



222 Boute 65, BEX. From Geneva 

'^Orand Hotel oes Baims; '^HSt.-Peks. des Etbamgess, pens. 4Vr5 fr.; 
Pens, du Gsoghet; Rail. Restaurant. — English Church, opposite the Gr. 
Hot. des Bains. 

Bex (1427' ; pop. 3958 ; pronounced Bay), charmingly situated, 
on the Avan^on, and affording many beautiful walks, lies ^/4 M. 
from the station (omnibus 50 c.). 

Fine view from Le Montei, a Idll to the K. 0/2 hr.), from the Boii, and 
from the Tour de Duin, a ruin on a wooded hill O'/i hr. to the 8.E.). — The 
extensive salt-works of Divens and R4vieux, 3 M. to the N.E., reached by a 
shady road of gradual ascent, may be visited in half a day (guide 5 fr.). 
Visitors usually drive to Divens, see the salt-works, and then visit the 
mines, where the salt is obtained from the saline, argillaceous slate by a 
process of soaking. Salt is also obtained from the salt-springs by evapor- 
ation. In the wood at the back of the salt-works are two huge erratic blocks. 

A road leads to the E. of Bex, on the left bank of the Avan^on, to 
(SVs M.) Freniires (2850'; Pens. Giroud) and (2 M.) Lea Plana (3612'; ''Pens, 
de V Argentine, D. 2V2fr.; "Pens. Bernard; "Pens. Merletaz; 5-7 fr.; these two 
unpretending; guides Philippe and Fvangois Marletaz). In the sequestered 
ValUe des Plans, a good starting-point for excursions. Thus, to the Pont 
de Nant (4110'; B«staurant), with view of the glaciers of the Dent de 
3Iorcles, V2 hr.; to the Croix de Javernas (6910') 3 hrs.; to the Gla- 
cier de Plan-Nevi 3 hrs.; ascent of the Argentine (79820 4 hrs.; *'Dent 
de Morcles (9777'), with an imposing view of the Mont Blanc chain and 
the Alps of Valais, 7 hrs. (descent to Morcles, p. 223, 3Vs hrs.) ; T^te a 
Pierre-Grept (954»') 7 hrs. ; Grand- Mcever an (10,043'), by the Frite de Sailles 
(3527'; a pass to the Rhone Valley between the Grand and the Petit Moe- 
veran), 7 hrs.; to Anzeindat (p. 230) over the Col des Esseis (669O0 4 hrs. 

From Bex to Gryon, and over the Pas de Cheville to Sionj see R. 6S. 

To Chesih'es and Villars (by Divens, 3 hrs.), see p. 221. 

The tiain crosses the Avan^on and the Rhone, joins the line on 
the S. bank (p. 234), and passes through a curved tunnel. 

71 M. St Kaurice (1377' ; pop. 1631 ; HoUl-Pens. Oriaogono, 
near the station, in connection with the Rail. Restaur, ; Ecu du 
Valais; H6U d*.a Alpea, well spoken of), a picturesque old town 
with narrow streets, on a delta between the river and the cliffs, 
the Roman Agaununiy is said to derive its name from St. Maurice, 
the commander of the Theban legion, who is said to have suffered 
martyrdom here with his companions in 302 (near the Chapelle de 
Verolliaz, see below). The abbey, probably the most ancient on 
this side of the Alps, supposed to have been founded at the end of 
the 4th cent, by St. Theodore, is now occupied by Augustinian 
monks, and contains some interesting old works of art (shown by 
special permission only) : a vase of Saracenic workmanship, a cro- 
zier in gold, a chalice of agate, Queen Bertha's chalice, and a rich 
MS. of the Gospels, said to have been presented to the abbey by 
Charlemagne. On the walls of the churchyard and on the tower of 
the venerable abbey-church are Roman inscriptions. — To the W. of 
the station, halfway up an apparently inaccessible precipice, is 
perched the hermitage of Notre ' Dame -du- Sex (sax, i.e. rock), to 
which a narrow path has been hewn in the rock. Farther to the N., 
above the mouth of the tunnel , halfway up the hill , is the Orotte 
aux Fits , a stalactite cavern with a lake and a waterfall at the end 
V4 hr. from the station, where tickets and guides are to be had). 



to Martigny. VERNAYAZ. 65, BouU. 223 

Travellers ascending the valley change carriages at 8t. Hanrice for 
Hartigny and Brieg. Those descending change for Lausanne, but not for 
Bouveret, where steamers (far preferable in fine weather) correspond 
with the trains. 

The Batha of Lavey (1377'-, ^'ffStel, D. SVa, 8. 2»/4, omnibus 8/4 fr.}, 
iVz M. above St. Maurice, are much frequented. The warm spring (100** 
Fahr.), first discovered in 1831, impregnated with sulphur and common salt, 
rises in a wooden pump-room , 5 min. from the hotel. — A narrow road 
(one-horse earr. if fr.) ascends through wood in eigzags, to the E. of 
the baths, to (272 hrs.) Mercies (3822' ; Pent. CAeseaux; guides Ch. Gutilat 
and Jill. Cfieseaux), prettily situated at the foot of the Dent de Morcles. 
Above it (10 min.) is Dailly (4149' 5 "Pens. Perrochon, 5 fr.), with a 
charming view. Ascent of the Dent de Morelet (SHIT) from Hordes 5Vs hrs. 
(see p. 216); bed of hay if required on the BaiU de Morcles (5740'), 
IV2 hr. from Morcles. 

Beyond St. Maurice, on the right, is the Chapelle de Veroille^ 
with rude frescos. Opposite, on the right bank, are the Baths of 
Lavey (see above). The line approaches the Rhone, and passes 
the spot where huge mud-streams from the Dent du Midi inund- 
ated the valley in 1835, covering it with rocks and debris. 

75 M. Evionnaz occupies the site of Epaununiy a town which 
was destroyed by a similar mud-stream in 563. Before us rises the 
broad snow-clad Mont Vtlan (p. 277). Near the hamlet of La Balmaz 
railway and road skirt a projecting rock close to the Rhone. On the 
right is the ^Pifwevaelie, a beautiful cascade of the Salanfe , which 
rises among the gorges of the Dent du Midi (comp. p. 233), and 
here falls into the Rhone Valley from a height of 230' (8/4 M. from 
Vernayaz, the nearest station; best light in the forenoon). A path 
ascends on the right side, and passes behind the waterfall (1 fr.). 

77 M. Yernayas (1535' ; *Qr.'H6t. dea Gorges du Trient, V2 M. 
from the station, finely situated at the entrance of the Gorge, 
pens, from 7 fr. upwards. In the village; *H6t. des Alpes^ R. 
IV2 fr. ; *H6t, Suisse; H6t. de Chamonix ; H6t. de la Poste), the 
starting-point of the route to Chamonix via Salvan (p. 258), has a 
staff of guides and horses (guide to Chatelard 6, Chamonix 12, 
Cascade du Dalley 4 fr.). 

On the right, beyond Vernayaz, we observe the bare rocks at 
the mouth of the *6orge du Trienti which may be ascended for 
^2 M. by means of a wooden gallery attached to the rocks above the 
foaming stream. Tickets (1 fr.) at the Grand H6tel des Gorges du 
Trient. 

The view at the entrance to the gorge is imposing. The rocks, here about 
42(K high , approach each other so closely at every turn , that the gorge 
almost reaembles a huge vaulted cavern. Where the path citosses the 
Trient for the second time, (he stream is said to be 40' deep; at the end 
of the gaUeiy it forms a waterfall, SCK high. The gorge (inaccessible farther 
up) is 7V2 M. long, extending to the Hotel de la TSte Xoire (p. 257), from 
which its entrance is visible. 

Near Martigny, at the right angle which the Rhone valley here 
forms , on a hill to the right, stands La Batiai (1985^), a castle of 
the bishops of Slon, erected in 1260, and dismantled in 1518. The 
steep ascent to it from the Drance bridge takes ^4 ^^' (adm. 30 c). 



224 B(mU65, HABTIGNT. 

The hill on which the castle stands aifords a view of the broad lower 
Rhone Valley as far as Sion, and some of the Bernese Alps, above 
which the Sanetsch and part of the Gemmi are prominent; on the 
S. side of the valley rises the Pierre-ii-yoir, resembling a tower; 
below ns lie Martigny and Martigny-Bourg ; through the valley to 
the S.W. runs the road to the Col de Forclaz, above which rise the 
Aiguilles Rouges; to the N. the Drance, and beyond it the Trient 
empty themselves into the Rhone. The train crosses the Drance 
(p. 275). 

8i M. Hartigiiy. — *HdTBL Clbbc, b., l., ft A. 4Vs, D. 5fr.j 

'HdTBL DU MONTBLANC & DB LA TOUB, B., L., ft A. SVz-^VZi !>• 4 fr.^ 

HdTEL-BESTADB. DB LA Gabb. at the Station*, Aiole, unpretending, on 
the left M the town is entered from the station, well spoken of. — The 
Bailwat Station is Va M. from the town (omnibus Va^'*)* 

Martigny- Ville (1558'; pop. 1525), the Roman Octodurus, is a 
busy little town in summer, being the starting-point of the routes 
over the Great St. Bernard to Aosta (R. 77), over the Tete-Noire and 
Gol de Balme (RR. 73, 74) to Chamonix, and for the Yal de Bagnes 
(R. 78). In the market-place, which is planted with trees , is a 
bronze bust of Liberty by Courbet. A large Roman building has re- 
cently been excavated at Martigny. — Above Martigny, on the road 
to the Great St. Bernard, lies (1 M.) Martigny-Bourg (Trois Gouron- 
nes, good 'Goquempey' wine), the vineyards of which yield excellent 

wine (^Coquempey and Lamar que^ both known to the Romans). 

ExcuBsiOKs. Near Branton^ on the right bank of the Bhone, 3 M. to 
the N.E. of Martigny, is the rocky hill of L€$ FoUata'r€S, famed for its flora. 

Ascent of the ' AipiUe (6880* « 4 hrs. , witii guide). The bridle-path 
ascends heyond La Batiaz (p. 223) through vineyards to the hamlet of 
Sommet det Vignet; then past the hamlets of Ravoir, through wood, and 
steeply to the chalets of ArpUU (5964') and the summit. Superb view of 
the Glacier du Trient, Mont Blanc, and the Alps of Bern and Valais. 
Descent to the 8., through wood, in 1 hr. to the Col de la Fordaz (p. 25T^. 

The *Tierre-i-Yoir(8i230, a limestone peak of the mountain-range which 
separates the Bhone Valley from the Val de Drance, is ascended from Mar- 
tigny, the Baths of Saxon (p. 283), Sembrancher (p. 275), or Ghable (p. 280). 
From Martigny a bridle-path, 6 hrs. (guide 8, mule 10 fr.)* From the Col^ 
1/4 hr. below the summit, the descent to Saxon may be made rapidly, but 
not very pleasantly on a sledge in 1-lVs hr., or on foot in 3 hours. Beauti- 
ful view of the Valaisian Alps (from Mont Blanc to the Matterhom), the Ber- 
nese Alps (from the Dent de Morcles to the Jungfrau), of the Bhone, Entre- 
mont, and Bagne valleys, and the glacier of Oiitroz (p. 280). 

*Oorg^» du Dumant (5-4 hrs. from Martigny, there and back), see p. 275. 

Railway to Brieg, 48 M. from Martigny, see R. 79. 

66. From Saanen to Aigle over the Col de Pillon. 

80 M. The read over the Col de Pillon was completed in autumn 
1886. From Saanen to Gsteig (8 M.) diligence daily in iVa hr. ; from Or- 
mont-Dessus to (14 M.) Aigle in 4V2 hrs. (from Aigle to Ormont 5^/2 hrs.). 
One-horse carr. from Saanen to Osteig 8 fr., to Ormont-Dessus 25, to Aigle 
40 fr. (carr. and pair 65 fr.), and fee. ^ . 

Saanen (33820, p. 182. The road leads S. through the broad and 
miling Saane-Thal, called in its upper part the 08teig»Thalj to 



ORMONT DESSUS. 66. Route. 225 

EbnU and to 01^4^0 ^^^ (3455'; Bwr\ at the mouth of the Laui- 
nenihal, 

A road ascends on the right bank of the Lauibach^ crossing the Tur- 
lach after V2 ^m to (4 M.) Lauenen (4130'^ Bar, rustic), the chief place 
in the valley, beautifully situated. The picturesque Lauenen-See i^aStT). 
1 hr. higher up, is best surveyed from the BUM, a hill on the E. side. 
To the S. the brooks descending from the Oelten &ndDungel glaciers form 
fine waterfalls on both sides of the JSahnenschritthorn (9304 ). — From Laue- 
nen to Lenk over the TrUttlisberg, and to Gsteig by the Krinnen, see p. 179. 
Over the Oelten Pass {Col du Brozet, 927(y) to Sion, to Zanfleuron (see 
below) 8 hrs., with guide, toilsome. — The Wildhom Club-hut (p. 179) is 
reached in 5 hrs. from Lauenen. 

Gsteig, Fr. CMteJct (3937' ; *Bar, pens. 5-6 fr.), 61/4 M. from 

Gstad, is finely situated. To the S. rise the 8anet3chhom (OBSOQ 

and the Oldenhom (10,282'). 

To SioN ovEB THE Sanktsch, 8V2 hrs., attractive on the whole (ex- 
perts may dispense with a guide in fine weather). The path crosses the 
Sarine, and ascends steeply through pastures, and afterwards in windings 

Jartly hewn in the rock, to the (2V2 hrs.) dreary Kreuzboden; thence 
hr. to the pass of the Sanetsch (7287'), on this side of which there is 
cross (La Grande Croix). Descent (passing the large Zanfleuron Glacier 
(m the right) to the (Vs hr.) Alp Zanfleuron (6775' j Hot. Sanetsch, plain), 
lyhence the Oldenhom (p. 226) may be ascended in 4 hrs., the Wild' 
Wn (p. 179) in 4V2 hrs., the Sanetschhorn, or Montbrun (96650 in 5 hrs., 
kd the JHableret (p. 226) in 6 hrs. (ascent of the latter easiest from 
ns side). The Sublage $973'), 2V2 hrs. from the hotel, affords a mag- 
iBcent view of the valleys and mountains of the S. Valais as .far as Mont 
lane. Then through the wild ravine of the Merge to (3 hrs.) Chan- 
mn, and by Oranois and Ormona to (IV2 hr.) Sion (p. 283). Ascent from 
pn to the pass 7, descent thence to Gsteig 3 hrs. 

' The new road here turns to the S.W., and ascends the valley of 

I Reuachbach through woods and pastures, in view of the preci- 

les of the Oldenhom (p. 226) and the Sex Rouge (9767'), to 

. IM.) the Col de Pillon (5086'), at the S. foot of the Palette (see 

t'lpw). In descending (passing the Cascade du Dard, above us on 

^left) we soon ohtain a Tiew of a valley bounded by fine wooded 

iBntains, and thickly studded with houses and chalets known 

lectively as Ormont-Dessus ; in the background rise the peaks of the 

rr d^Ai and de Mayen. To the left is the rocky Creux de Champ, 
base of the Diablerets , the numerous brooks falling from which 
Ijn the Qrande-Eau, We first reach (3 M. from the Col) Le Plan 
BIS'; *H6tel des Diablerets, with haths, pens. 7 fr., beside the 
Bt-station for Ormont-Dessus ; *Hdt,-Pens. Bellevue, moderate; 
pM, du Moulin , Pens. Chamois) , and in V2 ^r- more , past the 
ittily-situated *H6tel Pillon, Vers TEglise (3650'; Pens. Mon 
^Wi houTj Pens. Busset; Hotel de VOurs, all unpretending), with the 

rch of the upper part of the valley. 

ExcuBsroNs from Plan. (Guides : Mollien, V. Oottraut^ Fr. Bemet, Fr. 

Moise Pichard.) To the Crenx de Champ (4275')) a grand rocky basin 

he N. base of the Diablerets (see above), with waterfalls on every side, 

hr. (to the foot of the largest fall). A good survey of the Creux de 

amp, the Oldenhom, etc., is obtained from La Layaz (5340'), IVa hr. 8. of 

n. — Ascent of the *Palette (7133'; guide 5, horse 12 fr.), easy as far as 

i (2^/4 hrs.) chalets of Isenaux; thence, without path, and rather rough, 

hr. more to the top ; view of the Bernese Alps from the Diablerets to 

Bakdbkbk, Switzerland. 12th Edition. 15 



'ctf 





226 Route 66, LE SEPEY. 

the Jungfrau and of the Dent du Midi to the S.W. \ at the N. base of the 
mountain lies the pretty Amen-See. Or we may ascend from the Col de 
Pill<m in lV»-2 hrs. , past the small Rettau-See. — Fointe de KeiUeret 
(6404'), 2V2 hrs. from Vers rEglise; no difficulty; view extending to 
Mont Blanc. — Good walkers need no guide foT any of these. 

The Oldenhom (10^250'), Fr. Beeca d''Audon^ a superb point of view, is as- 
cended from Gsteig (7 hrs.), or from Le Plan (8 hrs. 5 guide 15 fr.). A 
steady head and sure foot necessary. Travellers from Ormont spend the 
night in the chalet of Pillon; those from Gsteig on the Upper Oldenalp. 

The Diableret (10,650'i 7 hrs.^ guide 18 fr.), from the Hotel des Diab- 
lerets, difficult. Imposing view. Easy descent over the Zcmfleuron Olader 
to the Sanetsch Pcus (comp. p. 225). 

To YiLLAKs (4 hrs.), ob Gbton (4Vs brs.) bt the Col db la Cboix, a 
fine route (or over the Col de la Croix and the Chamossaire to Villars 
6Vs hTS-; guide, 6 fr., not indispensable). From the Hotel des Diablerets we 
ascend the -valley of the Grande-Eau for I1/4 M., and then enter a lateral 
valley by a bridle-path to the right (S.W.). After a somewhat steep ascent 
of l*/4 hr., with almost uninterrupted views of the Diablerets, we reach 
the Col de la Croix (5687'), 5 min. N. of the hamlet of La Croix. View lim- 
ited. (Travellers who do not ascend the Chamossaire should at least 
mount the pastures to the right of the Col de la Croix for 1/2 ^* in order 
to obtain a fine view of Mont Blanc.) The path descends on the right 
bank of the Oryonne^ and after 1 V4 br. divides : to the left to Arveye 10 min. \ 
to the right to Villars 20 min. (p. 221). — The path to Qryon descends to 
the left a little above Arveye , crosses the brook , and reaches Gryon in 
40 min. (p. 230). This route is preferable to a path to Gryon which crosses 
the Gryonne Vs ^^- from the pass and follows the left bank. 

Adjoining Ormont-Dessus are the houses of the lower part of the 
valley, known as Ormont-DesBOiiB. About 4^2 M. from Vers TEglise 
the road joins that from Chateau d'Oex (p. 229); to the S. appears 
the Dent du Midi. We next reach (IV2 M.) Le Sepey (3704'; Hot, 
des Alpesf Mont d* Or ^ well spoken of ; Cerf^ moderate; one-horse 
carr. to Plan 8 fr., and fee of 2 fr.) , the chief village in the lower 
part of the valley. The clock here strikes each hour a second time 
after a minute's interval. 

ExouBsiONS. Pic de Chautsy (77980, 4V2 brs., not difficult (comp. p. 229). 
— Ascent of the *' Chamossaire via Bretaye (3V2-4 hrs.), and descent to Villars 
(IV2 br.), see p. 221. — A road, with fine views, leads from Sepey by Les 
Cretes to the lofty village of (2V2 M.) Leysin (4150'; tavern, good Yvorne). 
From Leysin to (IV2 hr-) Aigle a good path descends to the left by the 
fountain beyond the church, afifording charming views of the Rhone Valley, 
the Dent du Midi, part of the Mont Blanc chain, and to the left the Dent de 
Morcles, Dent Favre, and Grand Moeveran. 

The road turns suddenly to the S.W. in a line wooded valley. 
Far below, the Qrande-Eau forms several falls ; to the left rises the 
Chamossaire (p. 221). Near Aigle we cross the Grande-Eau. 

Aigle^ 7 M. from Sepey, see p. 221. 



67. From Bulle to Ch&teaa d'Oex and Aigle. 

Comp. Maps^ pp. 208 ^ 224. 

4IV2 M. DiLiGBNCB twice daily to (18 M.) Chateau d'Oex in 4 hrs. 
(4 fr. 85 c.; coupd 6 fr. 30 c); thence to (23V2 M.) Aigle daily in 5Vabrs. 
(8fr. 25 c.-, coupd 11 fr. 25 c.). 

Bnlle r24»7'; pop. 2494; *mu des Alpes, near the station, 
R. 2, D. 21/2 fr. ; *Vnion; Cheval Blarhc ; Hdtel de la ViUe or PosU), 



GRUYfeRES. 67, Route, 227 

a busy llttie town, the chief place of the Otuylrt and the centre of 
the Freiburg dairy-farming district, is the terminus of the Romont 
and BuUe railway (p. 195). The environs consist of rich pasture- 
land, famed for Gruy^re cheese and the melodious ^ranz des vaches* 
or cattle-call. The natives speak a Romanic dialect, known as 
•Orutfrien*. 

On the slopes of the Uol^son, 2 M. to the S. (carriage in 20 min. lie 
the snlphur^batha of Koatbarry (2712'; pens. 5-6 fr.), commanding a (farm- 
ing view. Ascent of the Mol^son hence, 8-3 Vs hrs. 

Abckkt or THS HoLtaoN FROK Bulls, 4 hrs.; guide (8 fr.) unnecessary 
for the experienced. We follow the Ghatel St. Denis road (see below) for 
s/4 M., and diverge to the left by a saw-mill. The nath gradually as- 
cends by the brook La Trime^ which it crosses by a (20 min.) mill, to the 
(V? hr.) red-roofed buildings of Part-JHeu^ formerly a Carthusian monastery 
(3133'), and leads along the W. slope (guide-posts) of the mountain, cross- 
ing several small affluents of the Trdme. We pass O/z br.) the QroB-Chalei- 
Nst^f; (1 hr.) Orot-Planay (a rustic inn in a large pasture); (3/4 hr.) chalet 
of Botme Fontaiut. Thence by a steep path to the summit in i/a hr. more 
(Inn near the top). 

The *MoUaon (6578'), the Rigi of W. Switzerland, is a bold rock, preci- 
pitous on every side, surrounded with meadows and forests, which afford 
an excellent field for the botanist. The view embraces the Lake of Geneva, 
tbe Mts. of Savoy, the Dent d'Oche and Dent dn Midi, and stretches to the 
Mont Blanc chain, of which the summit and the Aiguille Verte and Aiguille 
d''Argenti6re are visible. To the left of ihe latter, nearer the foreground, 
rises the Dent de Hordes, the first peak of a chain which culminates 
in the Diablerets in the centre, and extends to the heights of Gruy6re 
at our feet. The only visible peak of the Valaisian Alps is the Grand 
Combin, to the left of the Mont Blanc group. Most of the Bernese Alps 
are also concealed. To the extreme left, the Titlis. To the W. the Jura. 

AacxNT OF THK MoLiKsoM FBOM AxBXUvB (scc below ; 31/3-4 hrs.). On 
the outskirts of the yillage the path crosses to the left bank of the brook, 
traverses pastures, enters a picturesque ravine, and follows a well-shaded 
slope to a small chapel and a saw-mill. Here we cross the stream, re- 
cross it at a charcoid-kiln , Vs kr. farther , and reach (5 min.) the first 
chalet. Towards the N.N.E. the ridge separating the Mol^on from the 
Little Hol^on is now visible. The paUi continues traceable to the vicinity 
of the highest chalet, which we leave on the left. Thence a somewhat 
fatiguing climb of 11/4 hr. to the arftte, which is easily found, though 
there is no path, and to the summit, which rises before us, in 10 min. more. 

From Bulle through the Jaunthal to BoWgtn in the Simmenthal, see 
p. 182. (Diligence in summer daily in 6V4 hrs.) — From Bulle to Vbvxt 
(25 M.) diligence daily in 5 hrs., by Vuadens, Vaulrtu (Hot. de la Ville), 
JBenuaUt^ and Ohatal St. Oenia (2670*; S6t, ds la VilU), a small town 
prettily situated on the Veveyte, (The Mol^on may be ascended hence, by 
the Alp TreiMtiaMy in 4 hrs.) 

The road from Bulle to Gh&teau d'Oex leads past (S/4 M.) La 
Tour de Trtme, with its picturesque old tower, to (I72 M.) 
Epagny (2390' ; Croix Blanche ; one>horse oarr. to Montbovon, 7 fr.). 
On a steep rocky hill to the right lies the old town of Oriiy^ret 
(2723' ; *Fleuf de Lys, plain), with a well-preserved old castle of 
the onoe powerful Counts of Gruydres, who became extinct in the 
16th cent. , flanked with massive towers and walls, and now con- 
taining frescos, a collection of old weapons, etc. (fee to attendant). 

We enter the pretty valley of the Sarine^ or Scume, At (1 V^ M.) 
Enney (24090 ^® observe the tooth-like Dent de Corjeon (6460') 
in the background ; on the right are Lee VadaUea (5207') , spurs 

15 ♦ 



228 RouU67. JAMAN.. From BuUe 

of the MoMson. At the mouth of a ravine opposite (2V4 M.) VU- 
lard-aoua-Mont lies the large Tillage of Grand- ViUard, overshadowed 
by barren mountains. Passing Neirivue^ we next reach (1 M.) Al- 
beuve (2487' ; *Ange, moderate; ascent of the MoMson, see above), 
cross the Hongrin (below, to the left, is a picturesque old bridge), 
and arrive at (3 M.) Hontbovon (2608'; *H6tel du Jaman; horses 
and guides). 

Fkou Montbovon ovbb thb Jaman to Hontbeux (6 hrs.) ob Vevbt 
(TVi hrs.)- Gruide nnnecefifiary (8 fr.); horse to the top of the pass 10, to 
Lea Avants 20, to Hontrenx or Vevey 25 fr. A most attractive wsJk^ 
bat the pass shonld be reached as early as possible, as the midday mists 
are apt to conceal the lake from view. 

From the hotel we follow the road for 90 paces, and then ascend to 
the right-, 2dmin., we tarn to the right by ahonse; 35min., bridge over 
the Hongrin; 1/4 hr., chnrch of the scattered village of Allierea; V* ^i**! 
Oroix Noire inn. (A direct roate from Albeuve to this point follows the 
Montbovon road for V2 ^m ^^^ diverges to the right by a path to Sciemet 
and Allieres, 1^4 hr.; beyond Sdemes we take the path descending a 
Uttle to the left.) 

The path now ascends gradually to the foot of the pass, then more 
rapidly over green pastures (not too mach to the left), to the chalets of 
the Plan de Jaman, a little beyond the boundary between cantons Freiburg 
and Vaud , and the (IV2 hr.) *0ol de la Bent de Jaman (4974'). A most 
beautiful prospect is suddenly disclosed here, embracing the Rochers de 
Naye and the entire range to the 8. as far as the Tour d'Ai', and to the 
N. as far as the Dent de Lys and the Mol^son; also the rich Canton de 
Vaud, the S. part of the Jura chain, the long range of the Savoy Alps, 
the £. angle of the Lake of Geneva, and the huge Valaisian Hts. to the 
S. From the Dent de Jaman (6165'; fatiguing ascent of IV4 hr. from the 
Gol) the view is still more extensive, including the lakes of Geneva, 
Neuchatel, and Morat, Pilatus, and the Weissenstein. 

From the pass to Montreux the path cannot be mistaken; 12 min. 
from the chalets it turns to the right (the path to the left, skirting the B. 
slope of the Bale, or brook of Montreux, being shorter but rough); 25 min., 
a bridge over the brook; then a slight ascent, and a level walk to (Vshr.) 
Lee Avants (3212'; *ff6tel des Avants^ well situated, pens. SVs-lO fr.). A new 
road descends hence on the W. slope of the valley. Where it trends to the 
W., 2 H. from Les Avants, at the beginning of the region of fruit-trees, 
we descend by a paved path to the left to (10 min.) Sonzier^ and then 
rapidly to the left again to (V2 hr.) Montr eux-Vemex (p. 218). 

The road to the right at the bend above mentioned soon leads to 
the village of Chamex (2290'), charmingly situated in the midst of orchards, 
from which another road, passing to the N. of Gh&telard, leads to Brent 
and Chilly. Instead of entering the village, we descend by a road to 
the left, which leads us into the Vevey road. To Vevey (p. 215), 4V8 M. 
from the bend. (The traveller coming from Vevey must, by the last 
houses of La Tour^ take the first path to the left, and then incline to the 
right; 12 min., to the right; 12 min., a finger-post, indicating the way to 
'Challey, Gharnex, and Jaman\) 

The valley of the Sarine now turns to the E., and we enter a 
wooded ravine, the stream flowing far below in a deep rocky chan- 
nel. In a wider part of the valley lies (2^/4 M.) La Tine (Inn), with 
beautiful meadows. Farther on (2^2 M.) ''^^ observe on the oppo- 
site bank the pretty village of Bossini^res (^Pena. Grand Chalet, 
5-6 fr. ; Pena, Dubuia; Eng. Ch. Serv. in summer). At (IV2 M.) 
Lea Moulinaj at the mouth of the Toumereaae, the road to Aigle di- 
verges to the right (see p. 229). We cross the Sarine by the (8/4 M.) 
bridge of Le Pri, and ascend to (1 M.) — 



to CMteau d'Oex, CHATEAU D'OEX. 67. Route, 229 

18 M. Ch&teau d'Oex, Ger. Oesch (3498'; *H6L Berthod, in an 
open situation, R., L., & A. 3, D. fr. ; •Omw, in the Tillage, R., 
L., & A. 2V2-3V2fr-; *Pen8. Bosat, *ViUa d'Oex, Bricod, de la Che- 
neau, du Midi, Morier-Romt, etc., pens, from 5fr. ; Turrian, con- 
fectioner, ices, also a few lOoms, opposite Berthod), a scattered vil- 
lage and summer resort in a green valley. The churcli, situated on a 
Mil, commands a good view. To the E. rise the jagged Ruhlihom 

(7567') and the Oumfluh (8065'). 

^Mont Gray (6795') may be ascended from ChS,teau d'Oex in 3 hrs. 
(guide desirable). Tbe view embraces tbe Bernese and Valaisian Alps as 
far as Mont Blanc, and tbe lakes of Bienne and Neucbatel to the "S. 

Fbom Chateau d'Obx to Aigle (23 M. ; diligence daily in 
5*/2 hrs.). The road diverges from the Bulle road at (1^/4 M.) Les 
Moulins (p. 229) to the left, and ascends the valley of the Tour- 
neretse (VaUie de VEtivaz) in long windings. (Walkers follow 
the old road, diverging at Le Pre, just beyond the Sarine bridge.) 
The road runs high above the valley, affording picturesque views of 
the profound rocky bed of the brook. At (31/4 M.) Au^Devant the 
road enters a more open tract, and its continuation is seen on the 
mountain to the right, but it remains in the valley as far as (2 M.) 
VEHvcui (3865'), where it turns and quits the ravine. (Pedestrians 
avoid this long bend by a rough, stony path descending to the right 
by a saw-mill in the valley, and rejoining the road considerably 
higher up.) From Etivaz (above, a new hotel) to the top of the 
hill (5070') 2 M. ; then a slight descent to (8/4 M.) La Ucherette 
(4520'; Inn). We next reach (I74M.) Lea Mosses (Inn), where 
we have a splendid view of the Dent du Midi. The road now 
descends the valley of the Raverctte to (2^4 M.) La Comballaz 
(4476'; ^Couronni), much frequented for its mineral spring and 
its pure air. {Pic de Chaussy, 7798', an easy ascent of 3 hrs. ; 
see p. 226.) Beyond this the road overlooks a very picturesque 
basin, with the Dlablerets and Oldenhorn in the background, and 
winds down to (3 M.) Le Sepey (p. 226) and (7 M.) Aigle (p. 220). 

68. From Bex to Sion. Fas de Cheville. 

Comp. Map, p. 224. 

11 hrs. From Bex to Gryon 7 M. (hotel omnibus V2 fr. ; diligence 2 fr. 
90 c, one-horse carr. 12 fr., descent 8 fr.) j then a bridle-path. Guide to 
Aven desirable (P. L. Amiguet, P. F. Broyon, and O. F. and Henri Aulet 
at Gryon : a guide may generally be found at Anzeindaz also ; from Gryon 
to Sion 12 fr.). Horse 20 fr. 

The route over the Pas de Cheville , cutting off the right angle formed 
by the Rhone Valley at Martigny, presents an almost continuous series of 
wild rocky landscapes, especially on the Valais (S.) side, and commands the 
Rhone Valley towards the end of the journey. 

BeXy p. 221. The road leads to the N. to BSvieux (p. 222), crosses 
the AvanQon, and ascends in zigzags (which the old path cuts off), 
passing the villages of La Chene, Fenalet, and Aux Posses. Fine 
view of the Dent du Midi (p. 233). Near Gryon we obtain to the 



A 



230 BouU 68. PAS D£ CHEVILLE. 

right a pleasing gUmpse of the yjllage of Freniires and the falls of a 
branch of the Avan^n, descending from the Valine des Plans (p. 222). 

7M. Ghrjon (3632'; Pens, Scmuast; Pens. Morely pens, at both 
4^2-5 f r.) is a considerable village. To ViUars , and over the Col 
de la Croix to Otmont^Dettus^ see p. 226. 

Bbidlb Path. By the (lOmln.) last house of Oryon we follow 
the path to the right, in ylew of the foar peaks of the DiabUreU, 
and skirt their steep S. slopes in the valley of the Avan^n. 
On the right rise the Argentine (7985') and 'Uie Grand Mctveran 
(10,043'). Above the (1 hr.) chalets oi 8ergnemmt(Ji2Ab') we cross 
the Avan^on, and for a short distance traverse a pine-forest on 
the abrupt limestone slopes of the Argentine, which glitter like silver 
in the sunshine. Grossing the Avan^n again, and passing the 
(3/4 hr.) chalets of Solalex (4810') , we ascend a atony slope in a 
long curve, and next reach the chalets of (IV2 hr.) Amtindiig 
(6220'; Inn with 9 beds, open from the middle of July to Sept. 
only). To the S. lies the Olacier de Paneyroataz, descending from 
the Tite d Pierre Qrept (9644'), adjoined on the E. by the THe du 
Oroa-Jean (8567'). To the N. rise the rugged and riven limestone cliffs 
and peaks of the DiablereU (highest peak 10,650' ; ascent difficult 
and dizzy; experts take 4 hrs. from Anzeindaz). Our path now 
ascends gradually, to (3/4 hr.) the Fai de Cheville (6722'). In the 
distance to the E. are the Alps of Yalais, over which towers the 
Weisshorn. The path now descends to the left, round the moun- 
tain, where a wall and gate mark the frontier of Yalais, and over 
steep and stony slopes, past a waterfall, to the (Ys hr.) Chalets de 
Cheville (5710'). Here we cross the brook, follow the slope to the 
right, and then descend in zigzags, passing the chalets oi Derhorenee 
(5213'), to (V2 hr.) the Lae de Derhorenee (4698'), in a gloomy 
basin formed by a fall of rocks from the Diablerets in 1749. To 
the left, high above us, lies the great Zanfleuron Olaeier. 

We skirt the S. side of the lake ; then cross (3/4 hr.) the Liseme, 
follow the left bank, and passing the chalets otBesson (4370'), skirt 
a wooded slope descending steeply from the E. into the profound 
gorge of the Liseme. The path, for the most part protected by a low 
stone wall, and quite safe, gradually descends to (1^/4 hr.) the Cha- 
peUe 8t. Bernard (3530'), at the end of the Liserne gorge, where an 
extensive view of the Rhone Valley is suddenly disclosed. We now 
descend to the left to (20 min.) Aven, surrounded by fruit-trees, follow 
the slope to (20 min.) Erde and (25 min.) 8t. SSverin, a thriving 
village belonging to Conthey^ one of the chief wine-growing vUlages 
in the Rhone Valley, which extends to the (iy2^0 bridge over the 
Marge. From this point by the high-road to (274 M.)/Sion, see p. 283. 
Instead of following the dusty road, we may cross tiie vine-clad hill 
of Murat from St. S^verin by a path commanding a fine view. 

A shorter route (shaded in the afternoon) on the right bank of the 
Liserne diverges to the right 5 min. before the Liseme bridge (see above). 



THONON. 69. Route, 231 

It crosses d^'bris at first, and is not easy to trace. Beyond the (10 min.) 
chalets of Moitelon^ we ascend to the right and pass above the chalets 
of Servaplana (4075'; milk) to (1 hr.) those of FAirette. Then nearly 
level, with fine views of the Bhone Valley; lastly a zigzag descent to 
(iVsbr.) Ardon (Hotel du Pont), 1/2 M. from the station of that name (p. 283). 

69. From Geneya to St. Maurice by Bonveret. 
Lake of Geneva fS. Bank), 

Gomp. Mapy p. 208. 

Steamboat to Bouveret along the S. Bank 3 times daily, in 41/2-6 hrs. 
(fare 6 or 3 fr.). Stations : Cologny^ BeloHe^ Bellerive, Conier, Aniires, Her- 
tnanee, Tougues-Douvaine^ Nemier^ Yvoire^ Anthy-Sichety Thonon, Amphionf 
and Evian. — Railway from Annemasse (to which omnibuses and a tram- 
way run from Geneva, p. 199) to (8872 M.) Bouveret in 2 hrs. (comp. p. 238). 

Geneva, see p. 198. On leaving the quay the steamer affords a 
fine retrospect of the tovn with its nnmerous villas. It touches at 
Cologny (the village lying on the hiU above, p. 207), La Belotte (for 
V^aenaZy p. 207), Bellerive (for CoUonge, a little inland), Corsier, 
and Anihres. At Hermance (*Pens. Sinai; Pens, du Colombier) the 
hrook of that name falls into the lake, forming the boundary be- 
tween the Canton of Geneva and Savoy (France). Then Tongues and 
Nemiety opposite which Nyon (p. 210) is conspicuous on theN. bank. 

Beyond Yvoire with its ancient castle, situated on a promontory, 
the lake suddenly expands to its greatest width (8^/4 M.). The N. 
hank is now so distant that its villages aie only distinguished in 
dear weather. A large bay opens to the S., in which lies Excenevrex. 
The Savoy Mts. become more conspicuous. 

Thonon (1401'; pop. 5500; Hotel de VEurope^ on the terrace ; 
Balance; Ville de Geneve), rising picturesquely from the lake, the 
ancient capital of the province of Chahlais, possesses handsome 
huildings and a lofty terrace in the upper town, the site of a palace 
of the Dukes of Savoy which was destroyed by the Bernese in 1536. 

Railway to Bellegarde, see p. 238. — To the S. of Thonon (3 M.) is 
the village of Let AllingeSj commanded by a ruined castle (ascent Va br. \ 
fine view). 

From Thonon a road ascends the pretty Vallet of the Dbance by 
Le Biot and St. Jean d'^Aulph (with ruins of a monastery) to (20 M.) a bridge 
which crosses the Drance opposite to Montriondy beyond which the road 
divides. The road to the right leads by Les Gets (1112m) to (10 H.) Tan- 
inges (p. 255) \ that to the left to (3 M.) Morzine (Hotel des Alpes). From 
Morzine over the Col de Jouplane or the Col de la OoUse to (4 hrs.) Sa- 
moens, see p. 254^ over the Col de Coux to (5*/* brs.) Champir!/, see p. 234. 

The steamer next passes the ancient chateau of BipaiUej on the 
lake, a little to the N. of Thonon, once the seat of Duke Victor Ama- 
deus VIII. of Savoy (p. 213). The long promontory round which 
the vessel now steers has been formed by the deposits of the Drance, 
which falls into the lake here (not to be confounded with the af- 
fluent of the Rhone, p. 224). In the bay lie the baths of Amphion 
(Gr. H6t. des Bains), with a chalyheate spring, in a chestnut^grove. 

We next touch at Evian-les-BamB (^Orand'H6t, d'Evian^ with 
garden on the lake; H6t. des Bains; H6t, de France; H6t, du Nord; 



232 BouU 69. BOUVERET. From Geneva 

*E6t, de Fonbonne, on the lake), a small town plctnresquely situated 
(2913 inh.), with a lofty and conspicuous church - tower. High 
above the lake, in the centre of the town, is the Bath-'house (water 
containing bi-carbonate of soda), the garden rising at the back of 
which affords a beautiful view. At the end of the pleasant lake pro- 
menade is the prettily situated Casino , containing a pretty theatre. 
— Railway to Bouveret and BeUegarde^ see p. 238. 

On the lake, near station Tour-Ronde, is the old chatean of 
Blonay with a park. Opposite lies Lausanne (p. 212), picturesquely 
situated on the hill-side; more to the right is visible the lofty 
Paudfeze viaduct, on the Oron Railway (p. 195). The hills of the 
S. bank, which the boat now skirts, become steeper and higher. 
In a romantic situation close to the lake is Meillerie, where, in 
Rousseau's 'Nouvelle H^o'ise', St. Preux takes shelter at the house 
of Mme. Yolmar during a storm. It was accessible from the lake only, 
until Napoleon I. caused the Simplon road to be hewn through the 
rocks. The railway is here carried through a tunnel. Beautiful 
view near Lea VaUettes. 

St. Gtingolph (Poste ; Lion d'OrJj on a promontory opposite Ve- 
vey (p. 215), belongs half to Savoy, and half to Valais, the bound- 
ary being the Morge, which flows through a deep ravine. The grotto 

of VivierSy with its springs, may be visited by boat. 

Interesting excursion, wiUi fine views, up the ravine of the Morge and 
across the mountain to Port Valais (see below). We may extend our walk 
on the left bank of the Morge to (IV4 hr.) Novel (two poor inns), ascend 
the Blanchard (4642'^ with guide, 1^/4 hr.), and return by the right bank 
of the Morge through beautiful forest to St. Gingolph. — Ascent of the Dent 
d'Oche (73(xy) from Novel, interesting, 4-5 hrs. (with guide) •, the Qrcmvmont 
(71460 4 hrs., also interesting. — To the £. of Novel a tolerable bridle-path 
leads round the S. side of the Grammont, and past the lakes of Lovtnex 
and Tanney^ in 4V2 hrs. to Vouvry (see below). 

Bouveret (Tour) lies at the S.E. end of the Lake of Geneva, 
3/4 M. to the S.W. of the mouth of the Bhone, which has converted 
the adjoining land into a marsh. Its impetuous current , called la 
Battaglikre^ may be traced for upwards of 1 M. in the lake. — Rail- 
way to BeUegarde, see p. 238. 

The Railway enters the Rhone Valley to the S.E. and follows 
the left bank. At the foot of a rocky hill to the right lies Port 
Valais J the Portus Valleaiae of the Romans, once on the lake, but 
now IV2 M. inland. Near the defile of La Porte du Sex (1290^, 
which was anciently fortified, and formed the key to Canton Valais 
in this direction, the rock approaches so near the river as scarcely 
to leave room for the road. The railway is carried out into the bed 
of the river. A wooden bridge crosses to Chessel on the right bank. 
To the right rises the Dent du Midi (p. 233). 

4 M. Vouvry (Poste)^ on the right, is the first station ; beauti- 
ful view by the church. The Rhone is joined here by the 5tocfcal!p«f \ 
Canal, begun a century ago by a family of that name, but never 
finished. To the right are the villages of Vionnaz and Muras at 



to St Maurice. CHAMPJ^RY. 69. BouU, 233 

the foot of the hills. Opposite the fonner lies Yvorne (p. 220), to 
the right of which rise the serrated Diablerets and the snow-clad 
Oldenhorn. We next pass Colomhey, with its nunneiy (fine view). 
A suspension-bridge, 70 yds. long, crosses the Rhone here to Ollon- 
St. Triphon (p. 221). 

10 M. Monthey (1380'; Ctoix d'Or; Cerf), with an old ch&teau 
and glass-works. In a chestnut-grove (guide advisable) 20 min. 
above it, among a number of boulders, is the huge Pierre-a-dzo 
(pierre suspendue), curiously balanced on a point not exceeding a 
few square inches in area. 

To the S.W. of Monthey opens the "^Val d'lUiez, about 12 H. in length, 
remarkable for its fresh green pastures, picturesque scenery, rare plants, 
and stalwart inhabitants. (One-horse carr. from Monthey to Champery 10, 
two-horse 15 fr. and fee; omnibus in summer daily in 3V4 hrs., 2 fr. ^ c.) 
ISe&r Monthey the new road ascends on the left bank of the VUze through 
vineyards, an4 afterwards for 2 M. through a chestnut-wood, in numerous 
windings (cut off by the old paved bridle-path, following the telegraph- 
posts, the beginning of which had better be asked for at Monthey). 
Beautiful retrospect of the valley of the Rhone, Bex and Aigle, the Diable- 
rets, and the Grand Mceveran. About V4 M. above Monthey the old path 
joins the road, which we now follow to the left where the telegraph-wires 
turn in that direction, and do not again quit. (The path to the right 
ascends to Morgin.) We next reach (iVa M.) the prettily situated village of 
Troistorrents (2502'; Hotel-Pens. Troistorrents), with a good fountain near the 
church. (Here to the W. opens the Val de Mobgin, in which lie the Baths 
of Morgifhy 4405', 3 hrs. from Monthey; the chalybeate water is chiefly 
used for drinking ; ^Grand Hotel, pens. 6-8 fr.) The road in the Val d'llliez 
gradually ascends, in view of the Dent du Midi all the way, to (2V2 M.) 
Val drilliez (3122') and (3 M.) Champiftry (3450'; '^EdUl de la Dent du 
Midi, R. 2, lunch 2V2, !>■ 3V2, pens, from 6 fr.; "> Croix Fidirale, R. IV2, 
D. 2 fr., unpretending), the highest village in the valley, beautifully si- 
tuated. 

Excursions fbqu Chahf£:rt. (Guides, Maur. Caillet^ Ant. Grenon^ Jos. 
Oherhausen^ etc.) The Mac dPAyeme (1 hr.) affords a good survey of the envi- 
rons. — The "^Cttlet (6448'; guide 4 fr.) commands a splendid view, espe* 
cially of the Dent du Midi. We follow the path to the Col de Coux (see 
below) for >/« br., turn to the right by a small shrine where the path 
divides, pass a large chalet on the left, and another on the right, farther 
up; then through pine- wood, and by a narrow path to the cross on the 
top. Chalets and cow-herds afford frequent opportunities of asking the way. 

"Dent du Midi (10,450' ; 7-8 hrs. ; guide 18, with a night at Bonaveau 20, 
with descent to Vernayaz 24 or 26 fr.). The previous night is spent in the 
chalets of (2 hrs.) ^onav^au (5103'; good quarters), IV4 hr. from Champery 
(see below), thence by the Pas d'^Encel the Col de Suzante, and the Col 
des Paressevx to the summit 5-6 hrs., the last 3 hrs. very fatiguing, but 
without danger to the sure-footed. Late in summer the path is almost free 
from snow, and there is no glacier to cross. The view of Mont Blanc and 
the Alps of the Valais and Bern is imposing; the background to the S. 
is formed by the Alps of Dauphin^ and Piedmont; the Lake of Geneva 
is visible from Villeneuve to Vevey. We may descend to Salvan (6^/4 hrs.); 
at first a toilsome descent over debris to (3^/4 hrs.) the meagre pastures of 
the upper Salan/e Alp (6278'; occupied in August only); then across the 
Alp and past the picturesque falls of the Salan/e by a steep and stony 
path to (IV2 hr.) Van d''en haut (milk), where we cross the Salanfe. A 
better path now skirts the S. side of the valley (affording a view of 
Mont Blanc as a comer is turned), and then descends to (1 hr.) Salvan. 

Tour Ballieres (10,587'; 9-10 hrs., guide 30 fr.; spend night at Bona- 
veau, see above), a difficult and fatiguing ascent, crossing the Olacier du 
Mont-Ruan. Superb view of Mont Blanc. — Similar view from the Dents 



234 BouU 69. COL DE COUX. 

Blanches (91000 1 ascended by the Barmaz Alp in 6 hrs., without danger 
for proficients (guide 15 fr.)* 

Passes. Fboh Champ£bt to Samo£ns oveb the Cols de Coux 
AND DE LA GoL^SE, 6^2 hrs. \ guldc (13 fr.) unnecessary. At the (^/i hr.) 
small shrine mentioned above, rre keep to the left, and, passing several 
chalets, and looking back on the imposing Dent du Midi, reach (2 hrs.) 
the Ool de Oouz (SSIO'; Inn), the frontier of Switzerland and Savoy, 
which towards the W. overlooks the valley of the Drance. The saddle to 
the left is the Col de la Ool^se. In descending, partly through wood, we 
avoid the paths leading to the right to Morzine (p. 231). On leaving the 
wood we see the continuation of the path bearing to the left to the (1V2 hr.) 
Col de la GoUse (5410')- Beautiful view of the side-valley in which Les 
AUamans lies, and afterwards of the valley of the (Hffre. Then (l*/4 hr.) 
SamoSng (p. 264). A good road thence to (IVa M.) 8ixt (p. 264). 

FsoM Champ£bt to Sixt oveb the Col de Sagebou, 8-9 hrs., ar- 
duows, only for adepts (guide necessary, 18 fr.). From the Hotel de la 
Dent du Midi, we descend by a narrow road leading towards the head of 
the valley to a (20 min.) bridge, and beyond it, at (3 min.) the point 
where two brooks unite to form the Viize^ we cross another bridge, and 
avoid the path to the left. After 10 min. more we take the path to the 
left, ascending rapidly for 1 hr., and 10 min. from the top of the ascent 
reach the Chalets de Bonaveau (p. 233); thence we ascend gradually, 
skirting precipitous rocks, to the (40 min.) Pas cTBncel^ where a little climb- 
ing, facilitated by iron rods attached to the rock, is necessarv. In 1/4 hr. more 
the path to the Col de Suzanfe diverges to the left (see below). Our route 
ascends slowly over the pastures of the Buzanfe Alp^ on the left bank of 
the brook , crosses the brook (V2 hr.), and then mounts a very steep and 
dizzy path to the (1 hr.) Ool de Bageron (7917'), a sharp argte descending 
abruptly on both sides. We descend thence to the (*/4 hr.) chalets of 
Vogealles and (Vzhr.) Borce^ and along an almost perpendicular rocky 
slope into the O/a hr.) valley of the Oiffre. In l>/4 hr. we reach Nant 
Bride, and in iV4 hr. more Sixt Op. 264). 

Fbom Sixt to Ghamokix. The most interesting approaches to Cha- 
monix are the route over the Col d'Anteme and Col du Brivent (10-11 hrs.; 
comp. p. 254), and that over the Col des Fonds (Col Lichaud) and the Buet 
(14 hrs.), the former in fine weather without, the latter always with a 
guide (comp. p. 256). A supply of provisions should be taken in each case. 

Fbom Ghamp&bt to Vebnataz over the Col dk Suzanfe (7940' ; 10-11 
hrs.; with guide), fatiguing. Beyond the Pas d^Encel (see above) we ascend 
to the left to the col, between the Dent du Midi and the Tour Salli^res, 
and descend through the Salanfe Valley (see above) to Salvan and Ver- 
nayaz. — Or we may ascend to the right from the chalets of Salanfe, 
1 hr. beyond the Col de Suzanfe, and cross the Col or CAiev d'Emaney 
(8356^), lying between the Tour Salli^res and the Luisin (p. 258), to the 
valley of the Triige, Emcmey, and (5-6 hrs.) Triquent (p. 258), or the Col 
d'Emaney and Col de Barberine to the valley of the Eau Noire, Barber ne, 
and (7 hrs.) Valoreine (p. 266), or finally to the E. by the Col de Salanfe 
(72900 to (3V2 brs.) Evicnnaz (p. 223). 

The train crosses the Vihze, which descends from theVal d'llliez, 
and at Massongex approaches the Rhone. At (14V2 M.)i5t. Maurice 
(p. 222) our line is joined by that of the rigbt bank. 



V. SAVOY, THE VALAIS, AND THE ADJACENT 

ITALIAN ALPS. 



70. From Geneva by Culoz and Aix-les-Bains to Cham- 
b^ry and back by Annecy 238 

Ferte dn Rhone. From Bellegarde to Boaveret, 238. — 
EzcuFsioiis from Aix-les-Bains ; Lac du Bourget ; Hatite- 
Gombe, etc., 239. — From Aix-lee-Bains to Annecy, 240. 
— Excarsions from Cbamb^ry, 241. — From AlbertvUle 
to MoAtiers and Beaufort, 242. — From TJgine to Sal- 
lahches or St. Gervais, 242. — Excursions from Annecy; 
the Semnoz, Parmelan, and Tournette. To Scionzier 
via Grand Bomand, 243. — From Annecy to Sallanches 
over the Col des Aravis, 244. 

71. From Geneva to Chamonix 244 

From Bonneville to Taninges, 245. — Pointe Percee. 
St. Gervais-les-Bainfl, and over the Col de la Forclaz 
to Les Honches, 246. — Gorges de la Diosaz, 246. 

72. Chamonix and its Environs 247 

Mont Blanc, 252. — From Chamonix over the Col du 
G^ant to Courmayeur. Cols de Triolet, de Pierre-Joseph, 
des Hirondelles, de Miage, de Trelatete, d'Argentiere, 
du Chardonnet, du Tour, 253, 254. — From Chamonix 
to Sixt over the Cols du Br^vent and d"'Anteme, or over 
the Buet, 254, 255. 

73. From Chamonix to Martigny over the Tete-Noire, or 

to Yemayaz by Triquent and Salvan 255 

Glacier d^Argentiere, 256. — Gorges Hyst^rieuses on the 
Tete Noire, 257. — Cascade du Dalley, Luisin, 258. 

74. From Martigny to Chamonix. Col de Balme .... 258 

Glacier du Trient 258. — From the Col de Balme to 
the T8te-Koire, 259. 

75. From Chamonix to Courmayeur over the Col du Bon- 

hoflame and the Col de la Seigne. Tour du Mont Blanc. 260 
Mont Joli; Glacier de TrelatSte; Col du Hont Tondu, 
260, 261. — From Chapieux to Pr^-St-Didier over the Little 
St. Bemhard,262. — Excursions from Oourmayenr : Col de 
Ch^eouri; Mont de la Saxej Pavilion du Fruitier, 264. — 
From Courmayeur to Martigny over the Col Ferret, 264. 

76. From Courmayeur to Aosta and Ivrea. The Gralan Alps 265 

Tdte de Gramont. From Prd-St. Didier to Bourg-St. 
Maurice over the Little St. Bernhard; Mt. Valaisan, . 
Belvedere, Lancebranlette , 265. — From Bonrg-St.- 
Maurice to Tignes, 265. — Becca di Koaa ; Mont Emilius \ 
Mt. Failure, 267. — From Aosta to Zermatt over the 
Col de Valpelline. Bee de Luseney. Passes from Val- 
pellina to the Val St. Barth^lemy, 267, 268. — From 
Aosta to Cogne, 270. — Col d^Arbole. Punta del Pousset. 
Grivola. Tersiva. Passes from Cogne to Champorcher, 
Ceresole, etc., 271. — From Cogne to Valsavaranche 
over the CoUe Laueon. Colle Herbetet and Mesoncles. 
Gran Paradiso, 272. — From Valsavaranche to BhSme 
Kotre Dame over the Col d'Entrelor. Colle di Sort. 
Colle di Eheme. Colle Rossetto, 273. — From RhSme 
Notre Dame to Valgrisanche over the Colle Finestra. 
Ruitor. Col du Mont, 273. — From Villeneuve to Ceresole 
and Ponte over the Col de Nivolet. Col de la Galise, 274. 



236 



SAVOY AND VALAIS. 



77. From Martigny to Aosta OTer the Great St. Bernard . 275 

Gorges du Dnrnant, 275. — Mont Chemin. Champex. 
Col dea Ecandiea. Cabane d^Orny ; FenStre de Saleinaz. 
TSte de Bois. Valsorey Valley, 276. — Grand Combin 5 
Hont Velan, 277. — Chenalette; Pointe des Lacerandea; 
Hont Xort. From St. Bernard's Hoapice over the Ool 
de Fen^tre to Martigny, and over the Col Ferret to Cour- 
xnayeur. Col de la Seri^na, 279. 

78. From Martigny to Aosta over the Col de Fen^tre. Val 
deBagnes 280 

Cabane de Panoaaiere ; Grand Combin : Cola du CrSt, de 
Sevreu, de Cleuaon, and de Louvie, 280, 281. — Excur- 
sions from Mauvoisin. Mont Avril; Tour de Bouaaine; 
Grand Combin ; Mont Blanc de Seiion \ Mont Pleureur, 
etc., 28'2. — From Chermontane to Bourg-8t-Pierre over 
the Col du Sonadon or the Col dea Maiaona Blanchea; 
to Liappey over the Cola de Seiion, de Breney, and de 
Vasevay, to Valpellina over the Cols de Cr3te S^he, 
d'Otemma nd de la Reuse d*Arolla, 232. 

79. From Martigny over the Simplon to Intra on Lago 
Maggiore 282 

Col des Etablona, 283. — Mont Bonvin, 281. — Foreat of 
Pfyn; lUgraben, 285. — Belalp^ Upper Aletach Glacier; 
Sparrhom;. over the Beich-Paaa to the Lotachenthal, 

286. — Excuraiona from Beriaal. Wasenhom, Bettlihorn, 
and Bortelhom ; to Iselle by Diveglia ; Col di Valdentro, 

287. — Schonhorn; Monte Leone. From Simplon to 
Saaa; Boaabodeigoch ; Laquin^och; Sirvolten Pass; 
Simeli Pass } Gamaer Joch ; Fletschhorn. From Gondo to 
Saaa over the Zwischbergen Pass, 283, 289. — From Domo 
d'Ossola over the Antrona Pass to Saaa, and over the 
Antigine Pass to Mattmark, 290. — From Gravellona to 
Streaa and to Orta, 291. 

80. From the Rhone Glacier to Brleg. Eggishorn .... 291 

Gerenthal ; Pizzo Rotondo. From Ulrichen to Airolo over 
the Nufenen Pass; Loffelhom, 292. — Glacier ofFieaeh; 
Eggishorn, 293. — Excursions from the Eggishorn ; Con- 
cordia Hut; Gr. Aletachhom; Lotachenliiclce: from the 
Eggiahom to the Rieder-Alp and Bel-Alp, 293, 294. — 
From Fieach over the Albrun Pasa to Baeeno, or to the Toaa 
Falla ; Binnenthal ; Ofenhorn, 294. — From Fieaoh to 
.Baeeno over ib» Kriegalp Paaa or the Geisapfad Paaa, 
and to Iselle over the Paaao del Boccareccio, 294| 295* 

81 . From Ulrichen to Domo d'OsBola. Gries Pass. Falls 

of the Tosa. Val Formazza 295 

Viz Basodino. From the Tosa Falla to Airolo over the 
8. Giacomo Paaa^ to Bignaaco over the Bocchetta di Val 
Maggia, 296, 297. — From Andermatten to Cevio over 
the Crlner Furka, 297. 

82. Valleys of S. Valais, between Sion and Turtmann (Yal 

d'H^rens, Vald'Anniviers, TurtmAnnVaUey). ... 297 

i. From Sion through the Val d'Ht^rens to Evolena, 

and over the Col de Torrent to the Val d'Anniviers 298 
Mayena deSion. Val d'H^remence, 298. — Pic d'Arzinol; 
Col de la Meina ; Mt. de TEtoile, 299. — Excuraiona from 
AroUa ; Lac Bleu de Lucel ; Mont Collon ; EvSque ; Pigne 
d'Arolla ; Denta de Veisivi ; Aig. de la Za ; Dent Perroc ; 



SAVOY AND VALAIS. 237 



Dent des Bouquetins, 300. — Cols de Collon, deZa-de-Zan, 
and de Biedmatten ; Pas de Ch^vres. Col de Chermontane, 

300. — Cols de Bertol, de TEvSque, du Mont Brule, 
and de Valpelline, 301. — Ferpfeclej Bricolla. Cols du 
Grand Cornier, de la Pointe de Bricolla, and d'H^rens, 

301. — Col des Bouquetins; Dent Blanche; Grand Cor- 
nier, 302. — Sasseneire ; Pas de Lona ; Bees de Bosson ; 
Col de Sorebois, 802. 

ii. From Sierre through the Val d'Annivlers to Zlnal . 303 
From Sierre to St. Luc ; Illhorn, 303. — Alp de T AU^e ; 
Alp d'Arpitetta; le Mountet; Roc Noir; Pointe d'Arpi- 
tetta; Besso; Pigne de TAU^e; Bouquetin: Diablons; 
Grand Cornier; Bothhorn. Col de TAll^e; Col de Cou- 
ronne; Triftjocb, 304. — Col Durand; Morning Pass: 
Schallijocb, 305. 

Hi. St. Luc. Bella Tola. Oyer the Pass du Boeuf (or 
the Meiden Pass) into the Turtmann Valley, and 

over the Augstboid Pass to the Vispthal 305 

From Turtmann to Gruben. Col des Diablons, 306. — 
Pas de la Forcletta. Tbe Schwarzhorn. Jung Pass ; Barr 
Pass; Brunneggjoch ; Biesjocb, 307. 

83. From Visp to Zermatt, and over the Thtfodule Pass 

to Chatillon 307 

From Stalden to the Simplon over the Bistenen Pass. 
308. — From Breil to Praray^ over the Col de Cour- 
n^re; Ch&teau des Dames; Grand Tournalin, 310. 

84. Zermatt and Environs 311 

Glacier Excursions from the Riffelhaus ; Th^odule Pass ; 
Breithom ; Cima di Jazzi ; Monte Rosa^ 313. — Schwarz- 
thor; Zwillings-Pass ; Lysjoch; Felikioch; Sesia Pass; 
Piode-Joch. New and Old Weissthor, 314. — Excursions 
from Zermatt; Gorges de Gomer^ Gomer Glacier; 
Schwarzsee ; Homli ; Staffel Alp ; TIte Blanche ; Findelen 
Glacier; Mettelhom; Unter - Gabelhom ; Strahlhom; 
Rimpfischhom ; Dom; Ober - Gabelhom ; Rothhom; 
Weisshom ; Dent Blanche ; Dent d'Hdrens ; Matterhom, 
314-316. — Glacier Passes from Zermatt to Zinal, Evo- 
lena, Ghermontane, Valpellina, and Valtournanche, 316. 

85. From Vogogna to Macugnaga, and over the Monte 

Moro to Saas and Visp 316 

Excursions from Macugnaga; Belvedere; Pedriolo-Alp ; 
Pizzo Bianco; Monte Rosa; Weisethor, 318. ^ Stelli- 
horn ; Schwarzberg-Weissthor ; Adler Pass; AUalin Pass, 
319. — Fee ; Triftalp ; Mittaghom ; Egginerhom ; AUalin. 
horn; Ulrichshorn; Baltrin; Stellihorn; Sonnighorn; 
Latelhom ; Weissmies, 320. — Alphubeljoch ; Ried Pass ; 
Nadeljoch; Domjoch; Mischabeljoch, 921. 

86. From Macugnaga to Zermatt round Monte Rosa . . . 322 

Turlo Pass; Col delle Loccie. Pile Alp; Corno Bianco. 
CoUe de Moud and della Moanda, 322. — Col d'Olen ; 
Gemsstein ; Col delle Piscie ; Col di Valdobbia, 323. — 
Excursions from Gressoney: Cort Lys; Lintyhiitte, 
Gnifettihiitte, Sellahutte, Vincent Pyramid. Lyskamm. 
Castor, 323. — Col de Banzola. Col de Joux. Pointe 
de Combetta. Bee de Frudifere, 323. — Betta Furca; 
Col de Cun^az ; Val d'Ayas or Challant; Col des Cimes 
Blanches; Grand' Cemetta, 324. 



238 

70. From Geneva by Culoz and Aix-les-Bains to 
Chambiry, retoming by Annecy. 

Railway to Aix-les-Bains (55V2 M.) in 3V2 hrs. (llfr. 30, 8fr.5, 6fr. 
10 c), to ChamWry (64 M.) in 4 hrs. (12 fr. 75, 9fr. 60, 7fr. 5 c.), to Albert- 
ville (937« M.) in 7 hrs. (18 fr. 70, 14 fr. 10, 10 fr. 35 c.) j from Aix-les-Bains 
to Annecy (25 M.) in 1V2-2 hrs. (4 fr. 95, 3 fr. 65, 2 fr. 66 c) 5 from Annecy 
to Annemasse (35 M.) in 2V3-3V4 hrs. (6 fr. 65, 6 fr., 3 fr. 65 c). Diligenck 
between Albertville and (28 M.) Annecy daily. From Annemasse to Geneva 
a tramway and omnibuses. — See also Baedeker't Midi de la Fi'aree^ 2nd 
ed., 1886. 

Geneva, see p. 198. 3 M. MeyriUy 6^/2 M. Satigny ; on the left 
flows ihe Rhone. Near (81/2 M.) La Pleine we cross the valley of the 
London. I272 M. Chancy-Pougny ; 14^2 M. CoUonges. The Rhone 
here separates the steep slopes of the Mont Vuacke (SiiiQ from 
the Jura chain. The lofty Fort de TKcliise (1387'), to the right, 
guarding the entrance to France , was founded by the Dukes of 
Savoy, extended by Yauban, destroyed by the Austrlans in 1814, 
and rebuilt by the French ten years later. Beyond the short tunnel 
under the fort we pass through the Tunnel du CrSdo, 2Y2 M. long, 
and cross the deep valley of the Valserine by an imposing viaduct, 
275 yds. long and 170' high. 

21 M. Bellegarde (Buffet; H6t, de la Poate)] French ^douane'. 

Above the confluence of the Valserine and the Rhone, about i/s M. from 
the hotel, is. the so7called Perte.du Bhdno. Formerly, when the river 
was low (19 ov. to Feb.), it disappeared entirely in a cleft in the rock for 
about 100 paces, but the channel has recently been so much widened 
by blasting that the water always remains visible. The water of the 
Rhone is used as a motive power for machinery by the Compagnie 
Hydraulique du Rhone. A conduit 820 yds. in length, and chiefly under 
ground, is carried from the bed of the river above the Perte to the Vid- 
serine, into which it falls a little above its influx into the Rhone. A 
new manufacturing town is springing up here, and a railway now runs 
through the valley of the Valserine to Nantva and Bourg. 

FBOii B£LLBGAKDs TO BouvEKET (62V2 M.), railway in 3V4 hrs. Stations : 
Valleiry; Viry; 15 M. Bt. Julien; 20 M. Boziey -Veyrier . at the N.W. 
base of Mt. Sal^ve (p. 206). The Arve is then crossed to (24 M.) Awmvmum 
(p. 245), the junction f(.r Annecy (p. 243), on the high-road to Chamonix 
(tramway to Geneva, see p. 208)'. 28 M. Bl. Cergmt; 33 M. Bont-St, Didier 
(ascent of the Voirons, see p. 208) 5 37 M. Perngnier; 43 M. ThwMm (p. 231); 
49 M. Evian (p. 231); 52V2 H. LugHn; 56 M. Meilleriei 59Vs M. JSL Gingolph; 
621/2 M. Bouveret (p. 232). 

Four tunnels (1121, 917, 493, and 166 yds. in length respect- 
ively). Beyond (28 M.) Pyrimont (with asphalt-mines near it) a 
handsome viaduct crosses the Vezeronce. 3272^* Seyssel, an old town, 
lies on both banks of the Rhone, which is crossed here by a double 
suspension-bridge. The river, now navigable, flows through a broad 
channel with numerous islands, and the valley expands. 

4IV2M. Culoi (774'; Hot. FoUiet ; *Rail. Restaur.), at the base of 
the Colomhier (5033'), is the junction for Lyons, Macon (Paris), 
and Turin. Carriages generally changed, and a long halt. 

The Mont-Genis train crosses the Rhone, and at (46 M.) Chin- 
drieux reaches the N. end of the Lac dn Bonrget (7450> which is 
10 M. long and 3 M. broad. To the right, on a wooded hill 



AIX-LES-BAINS. 70. Route, 239 

projecting into the lake, is the old ch&teau of Ch&tiUon. The train 
skirts the rocky E. bank, passing through four tunnels. To the right 
a pleasing view of the lake, the monastery of Haute-Combe, the 
chliteau of Bonrdeau, and the Dent da Ghat (see below). 

551/2 M. Jdz-lCB-Bains. — *Gkand HCtel d*Aix, Avenue de la 
Garej Gb. Hotels de l''£ubop£, de l'Univers, des Aubassadeubs & dd 
NoBD, and *H6t. Venat in tbe Kue du Casino; Grand Hotel de la 
Galerie, between the Bue du Casino and the Place Centrale; Splen- 
DiDE Hotel, finely situated above tbe Jardin Public. All these are of 
the first class, with corresponding charges: R. , L. , dk A. 5-6, B. 11/2, 
lunch 3, D. 5 fr. Slightly less expensive: Gb. Hot. des Bebgues, 
Avenue de la Gare; Gb. Hot. du Globe and des Bains, Eue du Casino*; 
Beausite, above the Jardin Public ; *Chateau-Dubiedx, BouI. des Cotes j 
*H6t. Guilland et de la Poste , Place Centrale ; Hot. Laplace and db 
Geneve, Bue du Casino ; Hot. de l''£tabliss£Ment Thebkal, by the Baths ; 
Hot. Damesin & Continental, Rue de Chamb^ry; H3t. de la Poste, 
Gebmain, Bossut, Gabin, du Pabc, etc. — Pemiont and Maisons Meu- 
bldes also abound. — Restaurants: Dardel^ Place Centrale ; Gr. Cafi de la 
Gare, etc. 

Cab, per drive, 1-2 pers., i fr., 3-4 pers. 2fr. ; per hour with one 
horse 3, with two horses 4 fr. — Voitdbes Publiques for excursions (to 
Marlioz, Port Puer, etc.). Place Centrale. 

Casinos. Cercte^ Eue du Casino, adm. 3fr. ; season-ticket 40, for 
2 pers. 65 fr. — Villa des Jleurs^ Avenue de la Gare, similar. 

English Chubcii Sebvice during the season. 

AiX'leS'Bains (850'; pop. 4741), the Roman Aquae AUobrogum^ 
or Aquae Oratianae^ a famous watering-place, picturesquely situated, 
is visited annually by upwards of 12,000 patients. It possesses warm 
(113^ sulphur-springs, used for drinking and for baths. The large 
Etablissement Thermal^ erected in 1854, is well fitted up. In front 
of it rises the Arch of Campanus, a monument erected in the 3rd 
or 4th cent. A. D., in the form of a triumphal arch, in memory of 
T. Pomp. Campanus and his family. The eight niches contain the 
urns of the persons whose names are recorded on the monument." 
The well-preserved Chdteau (14th cent.), now the Hdtel-de-VUle^ 
contains a Museum of antiquities, chiefly from the lake-dwellinga 
of the Lac du Bourget, and other curiosities (open daily 9-12 and 
2-5 ; 5 c). The rallying-points of visitors are the sumptuous Cercle 
or Casino J with its handsome saloons, and the Villa des Fleurs (see 
above), with its pleasant garden, where concerts are frequently 
given. Queen Victoria resided at the Villa Mottet during her visit 
to Aix in April, 1885. — Omnibuses run from the Place Centrale 
every 20 min. to (1 M.) Marlioz (In lOmin. ; there and back 60c.), 
whlcii possesses cold sulphur-springs (with inhaling-chamber), a 
chateau, and a park (restaurant). 

ExGUBsiONS. Pleasant shady walks in the Pare, the Pi'omenade du 
Oiffotj and the Avenue Marie. — The Lac du Bourget (p. 238) may 
be reached either by the ^Boute du Lac**, leading to the (2 M.) Port de 
Puer (steamboat-pier), or by the Avenue de Cornin, leading to the(lV4 M.) 
Port de Cornin. On the bank of the lake extends the beautiful wooded 
hill of Tresserve, 3 M. in length, with shady walks and fine views. At 
the "N. end of the hill rises the Maison du Didble (villa and garden), and 
on the W. side, on the bank of the lake, is the chateau of Bonport. 

'^ HautecomDe« a Cistercian monastery on the N.W. bank of the lake, 



240 BouU 70. CHAMB£RT. From ChomMry 

at the foot of the Moni dn Ckat^ ia another interetting point. (Steamboat 
thither several times a week^ trip round the lake on Sundays, allotting 
an hour at Hautecomhe. Boat with two rowers to Hautecombe and back, 
with one hour'^s stay, 4 fr. ; each hour more 1 V2 fr. ; to Bourdeau 5 fr. ; 
a bargain should be made beforehand.) The abbey, which was the bnxial- 
place of the Princes of Savoy until 1731, when the Superga near Turin 
was chosen for that purpose, was destroyed during the French Revolution, 
and handsomely rebuilt in 1824 by Charles Felix, King of Sardinia. The 
church contains the monuments of Amadeus V., VI., VII., Humbert III., 
Louis I., Baron de Vaud, Jeuine de Montfort, Count Haymon, Boniface of 
Savoy (Archbishop of Canterbury), the splendid mausoleum of Peter of Savoy, 
Anna of Zahringen, etc. The view from the neighbouring tower of Fhare 
de Oessen* has been described by Bousseau. About */i M. from the mon- 
astery is the intermittent Fontaine des Merveillet. On the site of the old 
Roman road a good high-road crosses the Moni du Chat. We combine a 
visit to the monastery with a survey of the scenery by taking a boat from 
Aix to Hautecombe, whence it should be sent 01^ to the chEteau of Bour- 
deau^ at the S. end of the road over the Mont du Chat) after visiting the 
monastery and the intermittent spring , we descend by a footpath to the 
Mont du Chat road, which leads us to Bourdeau, and thence we return by 
boat to Aix. — Farther to the 8., at the influx of the Zeius, lies the vil- 
lage of Le Bourgett with a ruined castle and a church in the transitional 
style, the choir of which contains fine basreliefs of the 13th cent. — 
Ascent thence of the DetU du Chat 0304')) 4 hrs., by a good bridle-path ; 
Splendid view of the Alps, including Mont Blanc. 

To the K. of Atx, on the Geneva road, lies (IV2 l^O St. Simon^ with 
a chalybeate spring ■, V^ ^' thence, in a romantic gorge, are the Cascades 
ds Orisjf (adm. GO c). From St. Simon a good road leads to the K.E. 
through the picturesque DiJlU des Conges to the (3Vs M.) Moulin de 
Prime, and thence by Cusy to the C^Vs ^0 Orotte de Bange with its sub- 
terranean lake (a drive from Aix of 5V3 hrs., there and back*, lights for 
the grotto must be brought). — To the E. of Aix a pleasant walk by C/4 hr.) 
Mouxy and the (IV4 hr.) Rocher de St. Victor with a chu>el, to the 
(1V< hr., 31/2 hrs. from Aix) Montagne de la Cluse , commanding a beau- 
tiful view. — To the S.E. (20 mln.) the Roeher du Eoi, once a Roman 
quarry, with a fine view. 

Fbok Aix-lbs-Baiks to Annect, 25 M., a branch-line (1V« hr.). The 
train runs at first to the N. through the valley of the Si^os^ which ha* 
worn a deep channel for itself, called the Gorges du 8%4rot (where a 
small steamboat plies). 2*12 M. Qrisy-sur-Aix^ with a ruined castle and 
a pretty waterfall, tifs M. Albens. Through an opening to the right 
appear the Semnoz and the Toumette (p. 248). 10^/x M. Bloyt. At (13 M.) 
Bumilly (1095'^ Poste; Restaur, Dueref^^ a little town of Roman origin, we 
cross the Chiran. The train turns to the E. and enters the pretty valley 
of the Fier. 17 M. Mareelku-Hauteville. We now traverse the wild and 
romantic JM/IU du Fier (twelve bridges and two short tunnels). On the 
left, near the end of the gorge, rises the oh&teau of Monfrottier^ of the 
I4th-16th centuries. 20Vs M. Lovagny (restaur, at the station and at the 
entrance to the gorge); VsM. to the E. are the * Gorges du Fier, a grand 
ravine 276 yds. long, enclosed by limestone rocks nearly 300^ high, ren- 
dered accessible by a wooden gallery (1 fr.). Beyond Lovagnv we obtain 
a fine view, to the right, of the Parmelan, the Semnoz , and the Tour- 
nette. Tunnel of 1270 yds. ; then a bridge across the Fier. 26 M. Annecpj 
see p. 243. 

As the train proceeds, the lake is concealed by the wooded hill 
of Tresserve (see above). Fine Tlew to the right. 

58 M. Viviers. To the left rises the Dent du Nivolet (51130. 

64 M. Chambiry (883'; pop. 19,622; *H6t. de France, Qual 
Nezin, near the Boulevards; *H6t. de V Europe, Rae d'ltalle, a 
good way from the station; H6t. des Princes , Rue de Bolgne; H6t. 



to QtMva, GHAMBERY. 70. SouU, 241 

4€ la Paiz^ opposite the station), the capital of Sayoy, a handsome 
looking town, lies on the lapid LeUae, On the promenade between 
the railway and the town rises a large Fouwtain-Monumetkt^ adorned 
with life-size elephants, in memory of Qeneral de Boigne (d. 1830} 
who bequeathed to Chamb^ry, his native town, a fortune of 15 mil- 
lion fr. amassed in the East Indies. Of the andent and loftily sit- 
uated Chdteau of the counts and dukes of Savoy, erected in 1232, 
now restored and occupied by the Prefecture, the square tower and 
part of the fa^de belong to the original building. It contains small 
archasologioal and natural history collections. The chapel (^Sainte 
Chapelle') has an elegant late-Gothic choir. At the back of the 
ch&teau is the Orand Jardin (reached by going to the left round 
the building, through the gate, and up the avenue), a public pro- 
menade with a terrace commanding a fine view. The Theatre is 
richly decorated in the interior. Near it is the archiepiscopal Ca- 
thedrdlj a Gothic edifice (14th and 15th cent.). The pleasing new 
Hotel'de-Ville possesses a smaU picture-gallery. In front of the 
Palais de Justice rises a bronze statue of Ant. Favre (d. 1624), a 
famous jurist, erected in 1864. 

Walks. To the K., above the town (10 min.), rise the RocMrs de 
Lemenc, with a church in which Gen. de Boigne and Mme. de Warens, 
Bousseau^s friend, are interred. Charming view. — To Buistan-Rond 
(20 min.), a pleasant park; the (kucades de Jacob (}/% hr.); the chapel 
of St. Safwtiin (V/^ hr.). — Bout du Monde (1 hr.), a rocky gorge at 
the ba«e of the Dent du Klvolet, with a fine waterfall of the Doria. — 
Let Charmette* Oh hr. ; adm. Vz ^Of a country-house once occupied by 
Bousseau and Mme. de Warens (1736). — Challes (IV4 hr. ; omnibus from 
Stat. Chamb^ry V2 hr.), with a sulphur-spring, a bath-house, and an old 
chateau converted into a hotel and pension (good, but dear). 

The ascent of the Dent du Nivolet (5113'; 4Vs-0 hrs.) is attractive and 
free from difficulty. Boad for about 8 U. ; then a bridle-path nearly to 
the top. Magnificent view. 

Seyond Chamb^ry we traverse a picturesque district, passing 

the Tuins of BSiie and CUgmn. The precipitous Mont Qraniet 

(63589 on the right owes its peculiar form to a landslip in 1248, 

which buried sixteen villages. 70 M. Chignin'leS'-Marches. 72 M. 

MontnUlian (921'; Rail. Restaur.), junction for Qvenohlt. The 

castle, on a hill, of which a few fragments only are left, long 

served as a bulwark of Savoy against the French, but was destroyed 

by louis XTV. in 1705. Pleasing survey of the valley of the 

J9^rt^ which the train now ascends. 74^2 M. Cruet { 79 M. 8t. 

Pierre d^Albigny, junction of the Mt. Genis Railway; the small 

town lies 172^- to the N. On a projecting crag to the left stands 

the ruined castle of Miolana, once a state-prison of Savoy, destroyed 

during the French Revolution. 

The Mont-Gbnis Bailwat quits the Is^re here and ascends to the right 
in the Maurienne Valley^ watered by the Arc. Stations Chamoussei, Aigue- 
belle, Epierre, La Chamhre^ 8t. Jean-de-Mavrienne^ St. Michel, La Praz, and 
(46 M.) Modane. Then through the great Mont-Cenis Tunnel (TVs M. long) 
to Bardonniehe and Turin (see Baedeker^t JIT. Italy). 

The railway to Albertville keeps on the right bank of the Isftre. 

Basdbxxh, Switzerland. 12th Edition. 16 



242 BouU 70. UGINE. From Chambery 

85 M. Origy^auT'Jshrej with Roman antiquities. On the left, Afon* 
iaiUeur , with an old castle. On the opposite bank of the Isdre, 
8U. H£Une'de9''MiUihre8 ^ with salt springs. 89 M. FrorUtneXy 
whence a zoad leads to the N. over the Col de TanUi (2980'} to 
(11 M.) Faverges (p. 243). 

93 V2 M. AlbdrtYiUe (1181'; pop. 5086; H6t. MUUon, in the 
market; H6t. dea Balanees, Grande Rue), a pleasant town, which 
received its present name in 1835 in honour of King Charles 
Albert of Sardinia, consists of two parts separated by the AHy: on 
the right bank VHCpital, on the left the pietnresqae little old town 
of Conflam^ with its pinnacled walls, overgrown with vegetation. 

Fboh Albsbtvillb to MoCtibbs-£K-Tabbntai8b , 17 M., diligence 
3 times daily in 3 hrs. (SVs fr. } railway in coarse of construction). The 
road leads through the iMkre Valley, which gradually narrows and be- 
comes grander as we ascend, by Tours and Cevitit, at the N.E. base of 
the Tournetie (8050'), to (lO^/i M.) Feisaom-toui-Brianfon^ with the ruined 
castle of Brianiont then (12 M.) Ifoire-Iktmtde'Bvianfon^ and by Aiffue- 
blanche to (17 M.) Koutiert (1575*; 1969 inh. ; Bdt Vizioz; H6t. Bartholx)^ 
the ancient capital of the Tarentaiie^ the seat of a bishop, and named 
after a monastery founded here in the 5th century. The treasury of the 
cathedral is worth seeing. A little to the S., in the pretty valley of the 
Doron , are the baths of O/4 M.) Saiin* and (3Vs M.) Bridu-lts-Bavnt. — 
A road leads to the B. of Modtiers (diligence twice daily) through the 
picturesque valley of the Is6re to (17 M .) Bourff'St. Maurice (p. 265). 

Fboh Albbbtvillb to Beadpobt , I2V2 H. (diligence daily in 3 hrs. ; 
2^2 fr.), by a road through the picturesque Doron Valletf. The little town 
of Beaufort. (2625'; CTieval Blanc; Montblanc), prettily situated, is com- 
manded by 'the ch&teau of La Salle. Thence through the Giite Valley to 
the Col du Bonlwmme and oyer the Col dee Fours to Mottets^ 9-10 hrs., 
with guide (16 fr.*, comp. 262). — Fbom Beaupobt ovbe the Col Joli to 
CoNTAuiNEs, 8 hrs., with guide, interesting on the whole. Carriage-road 
through the Dorine Valley (or ValUe de Haute- Luce) ^ by Haute-Luce to 
hrs.) Belleville^ thence bridle-path over the Ool Joli, lying to the S. 
of Jfont JoU (p. 261), with a view of Mont Blanc, to (5 hrs.) Contamnet 
(p. 261). 

The Road to Annbct (28 M.) ascends to the N., on the right 
bank of the Arly. To the left, on a steep hill, stands the church of 
PaUud; on the right the Doron issues from the ValUe de Beaufort 
(see above). Near (5 M.) XTgine (1510'; Soleil d'Or), a small town 
(3000 inhab.) on the hill , the road quits the valley of the Arly, 
and enters that of the Chaise to the left. 

Fbox Uoikb to SiXLAHOHSB OB 8t. Gbbvais (8-9 hrs.). Road through 
the picturesque valley of the Arly to (8 H.) Flomet (3008*; mt. des Ba.an- 
ces), a village at the influx of the Arondine into the Arly. (Over the Col 
des Aravis to St. Jean-de-Sixt, see p. 2i4.) On a rock stands the ruined 
castle of the ancient barons of Faucigny. travellers in the reverse di- 
rection have to undergo custom-house formalities here.) Then (7 U.) Mi- 
give (3690'; Soleil), on the water-shed between the Isire and the Arve, 
shortly beyond which, as we descend, we e^oy a superb view : opposite ns 
towers the Aiguille de Varens (8831'), to the left lies the valley of the Arve 
as far as Magland (p. 240) ; to the right rises the entire Mont Blanc chain, with 
its glaciers and the summit. At M.) Combloux the road divides . the 
left branch leading to (S^/i M.) Sallanches , and the right to (41/2 tf St. 
Oervais (p. 246). 

At Uglne the culture of the vine begins on the lower slopes 
facing the S. Beyond Marlena the road quits the valley of the Chaise, 



to Geneva. ANNECY. 70, Route, 243 

and crosses the hardly perceptible watershed of the Eau Morte, which 
we now follow. 71/2 M» Faverges (1699'; *H6t. de la Poste), with 
its extensive old castle. (To Frontenex over the Col de Tamie^ see 
p. 242.) We next reach (6 M.) Bout du Lac, a hamlet at the S. 
end of the Lac d'Annecy (1463'; 9 M. long), on which a steamer 
plies three times daily to Annecy in IV2 ^^•' ^ pleasant trip; on 
the right rise the rocky pinnacles of the Toumette (see below). 
On a promontory extending far into the lake, to the left, is the 
prettily situated (3 M.) Chdteau Duingt (1476'). On the opposite 
bank lie Talloirea , the birthplace of BerthoUet (see below) , and 
Menthofiy with sulphur-springs and an old chateau in which St. 
B'iernard was born (p. 277). To the left lies Sevrier, at the foot of 
the long Semnoz (see below). We next reach (6V2 M.) — 

28 M. Annecy (1476'; pop. 11,334; Or.^Hdt, Verdun, near 
the lake, dear; *0r,'H6U dk Angletette i Aisgle), a picturesque, old- 
fashioned town, the capital of the department of Haute-Savoie, with 
linen-manufaetoriefl. In the 12th cent, it was the capital of the 
Duchy of OeneYois, and was named Anneciacum Novum, to distin- 
guish it from Anneciacum Vetua^, which lay a little to the N.E., on 
the slope of a hill, where numerous Roman relics have been found. 
The lofty old Chdteau is now a barrack. Gothic Cathedral, with a 
modem tower, and an an(^ent episcopal Palace, In the chapel of 
the monastery de la Visitation repose St. Francis de Sales (d. 1622) 
and St. Johanna of Chantal (d. 1641). The ProTntnade du Pdquier 
on the lake affords a pleasant walk and Hue view. Iii the middle 
of it rises the Prifeciure, in front of which stands a monument to 
the engineer SommeiUer, one of the constructors of the Mont-Oenis 
Tunnel. On the other side of the canal issuing from the lake lies 
the Jardin Public, with shady avenues, adorned with a bronze sta- 
tue of the famous diemist BerthoUet (d. 1822), by Marochetti. In 
the vicinity is the H^el^e'VUle, containing a- small museum, with 
a handsome fountain In front of it. Annecy, with .its beautiful en- 
virons, is recommended as a pleasant resting-plaoe. 

ExcuBsiONS. The Bemnos (559O0, to the S. of Annecy, a fine point, 
easy (5 hrs.). We take the Albertville road on the S. bank of the lake 
to (3 H.) a4vr'er. and ascend by a road to the right to the (T1/2 M.) Col 
de Leschavx (9028'); bridle-path thence to the top in 1 hr. (Hdt. Cret du 
Chdtillonf mountain-railway projected). Beautiful view. — The Parmelan 
(0018') , to the N. of Annecy , is chiefly - interesting on account of its gro- 
tesque rock -formations. Road by Sur-les-Bois- and Dingy St. Clair to 
(9 M.; carr. in 2V3 hrs., 15 fr.) La Blonniire; thence (guide not necessary 
for experts) by the Chalet Chapuis and the Ovand Montoir to the top in 
2>/2-3 hrs. (admirable panorama). — Ascent of the ** Toumette (7738), the 
fine mountain to the S.E. of Annecy, attractive but difficult (only for ex- 
perts; guide 10 fr.). Road to (9 M.) TMnes (see below), thence- with 
guide, Dy Belchamp and the Cha^tU du Rosatri^ in 51/2 hrs. to the top. 
uperb view, especially of the Mont Blanc group. 

Railway to AiX'^ea-Baint, see p. 240. Near Lovagny, the first station 
(11 min.), are the interesting "Gorges du Fier (p. 240). 

Fbok Aknbct by Gband BoBi^AifD to SciONZiEB, 12 hra., attractive. 
A carriage road runs by Veyrier and Alex to (4 hrs.) Th6nes (2054'; H6t. 
Cu'llery\ a little town prettily situated at the confluence of the Nom and 

16* 



244 Route 70. LA ROCHE. 

the Fier (aBeent of the Toumette, p. 243). Thence it aacends the valley 
of the Kom to the E. , passing Les Villards to (IV4 hr.) St. Jean de Sixt 
(3319'; to Sallanches, see below), beyond which it divides. The left 
branch runs by Petit-Bomand to (iVz hrs.) Bonneville (p. 245); the right 
leads through (V2 br.) Grand Bomand (9068'; /m»), a considerable village 
on the Bome^ to (l^/s hr.) Veney. From Venay a bridlepath ascends over 
the Col dee Annee (5606') to (2 hrs.) Reposoir or Prolong (Inn), where it 
joins the carriage-road leading through the picturesque Valley of Repoeoir 
to (2 hrs.) Sdontier (p. 245). — Fkom Aknkct ov£b ths Col dss Asavis 
TO Sallanches, 15 hrs., attractive. To (5>/4 hrs.) St. Jean de Sixt, see 
above. Thence a carriage-road leads to the 8.E. in the valley of the r^om 
to La Clfuaz and to the (2V2 brs.) Ool dea Aravia (4913*), which commands 
a fine view of Mont Blanc From the Col a bridle-path descends to (V4 
hr.) La Qiettaz (3640'; Hdt. des Aravis), whence another carriage-roiid 
leads to (2 hrs.) Flwnet, on the road from TJgine (p. 242) to (4>/4 hrs.) 
Sallanchee or St. Gercais. A shorter route is offered by a foot-path lead- 
ing from La Oiettae over the Col JaiUei direct to (4 hrs.) SaUanches. 

The Rail-way pbom Annect to Anneuasse traTones a tunnel, 
crosses the Fier, and turns to the N. into the valley of the Fiimtre, 
On the light rises the Parmelan (see above). 3 M. Prmgy-la- 
CaiUe; 6 M. St. MaHin^Charvonnex ; 10 M. Groisy-^U^Plot, At 
(1472 M.) Evirea (2592'; Buffet) beyond another tunnel and a 
lofty viaduct, the line reaches its highest point. Travellers in the 
opposite direction are subjected to the formalities of the custom- 
house here, as that part of the Department of Haute-Savoie which 
adjoins Switzerland is exempt from French duties (see below). 
Two tunnels, the first 1320 yds. long. 

The train now descends, making a long bend to the £., and 
enters the valley of the ArvCy of which it affords a beautiful survey. 
Beyond (20 M.) 8t, Laurent is a viaduct 157' high. — 23V2 M. 
La Boehe-aur-Foron (1804'; Grolx Blanche), a village on theForon, 
a tributary of the Arve. (To Bonneville, see p. 245.) To the left 
appear the Salhves (p. 208). 26 M. Chevrier; 28 M. Beignier. 
Then a handsome viaduct over the Viaison, Beyond (31Y2 ^0 
Monnetier^Momex (p. 208) the line joins the Bellegarde and Bou- 
veret Railway (p. 238) and crosses the Arve. 35 M. Annemaase, 
and thence to Geneva, see below. 

71. From Geneva to Chamoniz. 

531/slI. D1X.1GBMGB (tliree different vehicles, from Qrand-Quai 10, 26, 
and 28) in SVs hrs., incl. halt of </< hr. for dinner at SaUanches, returning 
in TVs hrs (^ban<|uette' 21 , there and back 36 fr.). The extra carriages 
used when the diligence is full take 2 hrs. longer. It is advisable to se* 
cure seats in advance (chief office, Grand Qua! 10), and before paying the 
fare, the traveller should see the seat he is to get. The time at which 
the traveller intends to return should also be announced at once in Char 
moniz. 

Cabbiaoes (p. 200). For a carriage and pair with four seats the fare 
usually demanded is 100 fr. (there and back in 3 days, 160 fr.), but by 
applying to the carriage-owner in person the traveller may generally obtain 
one for 70-80fr. . ^^ ^ 

Geneva, see p. 198. The road to Annemasse passes a succession 

f villas and well-kept gardens extending to the large village of 



BONNEVILLE. 71. BouU. 245 

(2V4MO Chene (1384'). The Foron Beparates Geneva from Savoy. 
At (274 M.) ijmemaMe (1427' ; H6ta de la Qare, Hdtel de la Faix^ 
at the statiOB ; National, in the village), the first French village, 
a station on the Bellegaidfi and Bonveret line (p. 238), and junc- 
tion for Anneey (p. 244) , luggage is not examined , as that part 
of Savoy which adjoins Switzerland is exempt from French customs. 
To the right rises the chStteau of Etranibttre , with its fonr towers, 
at the base of the PeHi-8aih)ej and beyond it lies Momex (p. 208). 
We approach the Arve, and cross the Menoge by a handsome bridge. 
8 M. AHhaz. 

The scenery improves. In the background rises the pyramidal 
M6le (6130'). Beyond (5 M.) Nangy, on a pine-clad knoll to the 
right stands the Chdteau de Pkrre. Near (27] M.) Contamines- 
sur-Arve lies the chateau of FiUy, on the hill-side to the left; 
beyond the village, on a lofty rock, stands the ruined castle of 
Faueigny, Then (5 M.) — 

I68/4M. BoiueYille (1457'; pop. 2271; Couronnt; Balanees), 
a little town of some importance, picturesquely situated in a fertile 
valley, commanded by the rugged limestone rocks of the Pointt 
d'ilndey (6165')on the right, and the slopes of the MdU (see above) 
on the left. A handsome bridge crosses the Arve, on this side of 
which, to the right, stands a monument to the Savoyards who fell 
in the campaign of 1870-71. On the opposite bank rises a mon- 
ument, 73' high, to King Charles Felix of Sardinia. 

A road leads from Bonneville to the W. to (5 M.) La Roche (p. 244). 
Another to the E. (diligence twice daily) by (5 M.) Marignier (where the 
Giffre is crossed) and (4 M.) Chdiillon to (3 M.) Tan^ges, on the road from 
Geneva and Annemasse to Sixt (p. 2S6). 

The road traverses flat meadow-land , which is frequently in- 
undated, and then enters a broad, fertile valley bounded by lofty 
mountains. Opposite (4Y4 M.) Vbugry the Qiffre falls into the Arve. 
3»/4 M. Scionzier lies at the entrance to the wild Reposoir Valley. 
(From Scionzier to Anneey by Orand Bomand , see p. 244.) On 
the hill to the left, on the road to Taninges (see above), is the castle 
of ChdtiUon. We now cross the Arve to (I74 M.) — 

26 M. Cluses (1591'; Edtel National; Union, mediocre and 
dear), a smalltown, chiefly Inhabited by watchmakers. To the 
left, near the entrance, an tcole d^Horiogerie, Beyond (3 M.) 
Balme (1624'), in the bluish-yellow limestone precipice to the left, 
750' above the road , is seen the entrance to the Orotte de Balme, 
a stalactite-grotto hardly worth visiting (2 hrs. there and back ; 3 fr. 
each pers.). 

Near (I72M.) Magland is a spring by the road-side, on the left, 
supposed by Saussure to descend from the small Lac de Flaine 
(4695') on the hill above. On the right, farther on, rise the PoinU 
d'Areu C8097') and the Pointe Fereie (9026' ; p. 2461 and on the 
left, the bold precipices of the AiguUlt de Varens (8163'). The con- 
spicuous cascade of Arpenas is imposing after rain. 



246 B(mU71. SALLANOHES. 

The Yalley expands. The road traverses a district ravaged by 
torreuta of mud and d^ris. At the village of (61/2 M.} — 

36 M. St. Hurtiii (Hot. du Monthlanc; H6t. des Grandes Alpes) 
we suddenly obtain a superb ^Yiew of Mont Blanc, whose dazzling 
peaks towering majestically at the head of the valley seem to anni- 
hilate the intervening distance of 12^2 ^- T^^^ Aiguille du GotLter 
appears first ; then, from right to left , the Dome du Goiter, Mont 
Blanc itself, the Mont Maudit, Mont Blanc du Tacul, the Aiguille 
du Midi, the Aiguille Verte, etc. — The road now divides. The 
old road leads on the right bank of the Arve to Chhde and (8 M.) 
Servoz (see below), while the new crosses the Arve by a handsome 
bridge to — 

36V2M. SaUaiLehM(178d'; HH, des Messageries; BeUeime), 
where the diligences stop for dinner. 

The Fointe Pereee (9026'), commanding a fine view of Mont Blanc, 
may be ascended from this point over the Chalet dts Fours in b\-2 hrs. 
(no difficulty for experts). — Route from Sallanches by Flumef to Alhert- 
ville, see p. 242; to Anneep over the Col des Arttvis^ see p. 244. 

The road, here uninteresting, next leads by Domanty to (5 M.) 
Lt Fayet (I860' 5 Hot. de la Paix; Hot. des Alpes, etc.), by the 

bridge over the Bon^Nant. 

St. Oervais-les-Balna (2066'; ''JSCttl)^ a waiering'placa with sulphur^ 
springs, lies in the wooded ravine of Montjoiey V2 M. from the Chamonix 
road, on the Bon-Nant ('l^anf being the name applied to all mountain- 
streams in Savoy), which forms a waterfall at the back of the baths. 
C Cascade de Cripin*). — A path leads in 20 min. from the baths to the 
VilUge of St. Gervaia (2657'; Hot.: ^'du Mont JolU *du Moniblanc, de Geneve, 
and several pensions), on the road to Contamines (p. 261), a health-resort, 
prettily situated. (The village is 2 M. from Le Fayet by the carriage- 
road.) — The Mont Jolt (8288') may be ascended without difficulty from 
this point in 6 hrs. The descent may be made by St. Nicolas de Ve'roce 
(in all 8 hrs. ; comp. p. 261). 

Pedestrians may quit the diligence at Le Fayet and walk over the 
Qol de la Fordas (5i05')» between the TSte-Jioire (5800'; not to be con- 
founded with the Tete-Noire between Ctamonix and Martigny) and ike 
Frarion (6460'), direct to Le Fouilly and Les Houches in 5-6 hrs. (guide de- 
sirable, 6.fr.). A longer but more interesting route (6-7 fara.) is over the 
Col de Voxa (p. 260). 

From Le Fayet a road crosses the Arve to Ghjode and Servoz 
(see above). The road to Chamonix on the left bank of the Arve 
ascends gradually, with the torrent almost immediately below it^ 
passes through a cutting and enters the wooded valley of (8^/4 M.) 
Le Chdtelard (tavern). Through the opening of the valley appear 
the J[>6me du QoHlUt (p. 263) and the jagged Aiguille du Midi 
(12,608^). Beyond the inn a short tunnel; the road then returns 
to the Arve for a short distance. 

A road diverges here to the left and crosses the Arve to (V2 M.) Ser- 
ifox (Balances), whence we may visit (in 1 hr., there and back) the *(Jor- 
tre> de la Diosas (adm. 1 fr.), a grand ravine, through which the Dioiat^ 
a torrent rising on the Buet, dashes in fine cascades. Easy access to the 
gorge is afforded by a gallery, »/» 31. long, attached to the rocks. Visitors 
should penetrate as far as the Gorge de Soiifrtet, the most imposing part, 
with triple waterfall (adm. 1 fr.). 

47 M. Lea Monties is an inn by the Pont Pilissier, over which 



Ouidea, 



CHAMONIX. 



72. BouU. 247 



the old road 'from Servoz comes to join ours. (From this point to 
the Gorges de la Diosaz 26 min.) About 1/2 M. farther on, the old 
road ascends to the right to Le Fouilly and Les Houehes (p. 260), 
while the new road traverses the wild ravine of the Arve, crossing 
the stream by the *Pont de Marie (fine view of the gorge) and again 
higher up. The glaciers now gradually become visible, but owing 
to the vastness of the mountains in which they are framed it is im- 
possible at first to realise their extent. The first are the Olaciera de 
Griaz and de Taconay; then the Qlaeier dea Bossons (p. 251) near 
the village of that name, which, as it extends farthest into the valley, 
is apparently the largest. A little above it the road crosses the Arve 
for the last time by the Pont de Perralotaz, and 1 M. beyond it 
reaches -^ 

531/2 M. Chamonix. 

72. Chamonix and Environs. 

Hotelg. *HdT. iMPfeBiAL, *H6t. Royal; at both, R., L., & A. 4-Bfr. and 
upwards, B. iVsj D- 5 fr.*, *HdT. de Londbbs bt d'Axglstebre, similar 
charges; *H6t. du Montblanc, R., L., A A. S'/aj I>. 41/2 fr. •, *"H6t.-Pen8. 
CoTJTTBT , B., L., & A. 8Vs^ 1 !>• 4 fr. ; *H6t. dbs Alpbs , same charges, 
pens. &-9 fr. ; ^Hot. ee l'Umion 4i dbs Clubs Alpins, with its d^pendance 
Paleds de CrUtal^ R. from 3, D. 47% fr. — Unpretending: ^HdTBL Beau- 
Site, at the S. end of the village, R. 2, D. 31/2 fr. ; '^HdxBL db Fbancb, R. 
from 2, pena. 5 fr. ; *H6t. Suisse; *H6t.-Pbn8. de la Poste; Hdx. de la 
Paix, well spoken of; *Cboix Blanche; Balances; Reunion dbs Amis; 
DE LA Tbbbasse, with restaurant. — Cafi Carrier. 

G-nides. A guide is unnecessary for the Monienvert, the Flig^re^ the 
Briventy and the Pierre Pointue. The paths are so minutely described in the 
following pages that they can hardly be mistaken, while opportunities of 
asking the way are also frequent. Visitors to the Chapeau need only 
engage a guide for the passage of the Her de Glace to or from the Chapeau 
(p. 5SO). The following extract is from the ^Riglement et Tarif des Guides 
de Chamonix*. Travellers are provided with guides by the Guide-Che/^ who 
is bound to employ each in turn, the traveller having no choice except in 
these cases : (1) When a .course extraordinaire (see below) is contemplated ; 
(2) When an excursion is made for scientific purposes; (3) When the 
traveller speaks no French, and the guide is unacquainted with the lan- 
guage of the traveller; (4) When travellers have previously employed a 
certain guide and desire to re-engage the same ; (5) When ladies travelling 
alone wish to engage a particular guide ; (6) When the traveller is a member 
of an Alpine club. 

The excursions are divided into Courses Ordinaires and Courses Extra* 
ordinaires. A complete tariff may be had of the Ouide-Chef. 

CouBSES Obdinaibes: 



Glacier des Bossons and back 

Montenvert and back . . . 

Montenvert, Mer de Glace, Cha- 
peau, and back 

Montenvert, Mer de Glace, 
Chapeau, Flegere, and back 
in one day 

Fl^&re and back 

Pierre Pointue 8; including 
the Aiguille de la Tour or 



5fr. 
6fr. 

9fr. 



12 fr. 
6fr. 



Pierre a TEchelle 9 ; or with 

the Plan de TAiguille . . 10 fr. 

Col de Balme 8 ; back by TSte 
Noire 9; or by Barberine, 
Incl. Cascades de Barberine 
and de B^rard in one day 9, 
in two days 12fr. 

Ascent of Buet and down to 
Sixt, incl. return-fee, in one 
day 23, in tufO days . . . 28 fr. 



A 



24S S(mU72. 



GHAMONIX. Points of Interest, 



Martigny by the Col de Bftlme 
or Tfite-Noire, or to Ver- 
nayaz by Salvan . . . . 12 fr. 

Br^vent by Planpras 10, by 
the Fl^gere and down by 
Planpraz 12 fr. 

Br^vent by Plan Bel Achat 
10, Lac du Br^vent 9, Plan 
Bel Achat 9fr. 

Jardin, and back by Chapeau 
14^ with night on Montan- 
Tert 16fr. 



Xer de Glace d'Argentiere 8,. 

to the ^glacier-circua' in one' 

day 12, in two days . . . 
Sixt by the Brdvent and Col 

d''Antflme in one day (incl. 

return-fee) 

Sixt by Servoz and Col d^An- 

terne 

PaTillon de Bellevue, Col de 

Yoza, or Prarion .... 
Contamines by the Col du 

Tricot 



CoUSaES JBXTRAOSDINAIKXS : 



Mont Blanc 100 fr. 

GrandB Mulets and back in one 
day 20, in two days 30, Grand 
Plateau 80, Ddme du Godter 
60, Corridor or Bosses du 
Dromadaire 70 fr. 

Counnayeur by the Col de la 
BrenvaSO ^ Cols de Trelatgte, 
d*Argentiere , de Pierre-Jo- 
seph, des Hirondelles 60 j Cols 



du G^ant, de Triolet,du Char- 
donnet 

Aiguille Verte 100, Grandes 
Jorasses 80, Aig. d'Argen- 
tiire and du Chardonnet 66, 
Aig. du Midi 60, Aig. du 
Tour 

Glacier • excursions on the 
Mont Blanc chain, above the 
zone of vegetation, per day 



18 fr. 

18 fr. 

18 fr. 

8fr. 

15 fr. 

50 fr. 

50 fr. 
lOfr. 



The guides are bound on the 'courses ordinaires* to carry ba^age not 
exceeding 24 lbs. ; on the 'courses extraordinaires', 14 lbs. only. — The 
following are recommended for difficult expeditions : FranfoU Simond^ Mich. 
Charlet; J*an Bapt. Crot; Ed. and Auff. Cupelin; Franfoit, Henri, and 
Michel Devowuoud; Mich. Dneroz; Frid, and M. FolHquet; Aug. and Alex. 
Paccard; Alph.^ Michel and FrM. Payoi; Be». Bimon; Michel, JSim., and 
Tob. Tairraz; A. Toumier. 

Horses and Moles. With the exception of the excursion to the Mon- 
tenvert and Chapeau (9 fr.) , and, to we Montenvert for the purpose of 
visiting the Jardin, and back to Chamonix in the evening (8 fr.), the same 
charges are made as for the 'courses ordinaires'' of the guides, and as much 
more is charged for the attendant. 

The Collection of Pictures of M. Loppi, a talented painter of Alpine 
scenery, situated behind the Hotel Royal, on the way to the Montenvers, 
is worth seeing. Admission gratis. 

English Churoh Service during the season. 

Points of Interest. The traveller should devote three or four days at least 
to Chamonix, but those who have one day only at command should ascend 
the MoNTSNVEET (p. 248) in the morning (2Vs hrs.), cross the Meb de Glace 
(p. 280) to the (1V« hr.) Chapeau (p. 250) , descend to (1 hr.) Lea Praa 
(p. 251), ascend the PL^oftBE (p. 251; 2V2 hrs.)) and descend thence in 
I'/i hr. to Chamonix. Early in the morning the path to the Montenvert 
is in shade, in the afternoon that to the Fl^^re at least partly so \ and by 
this arrangement we reach the Flegere at the time when the light is 
most favourable for the view of Mont Blanc. For this excursion a guide 
(to be found on the Montenvert) is necessary for the Mer de Glace only. 
Riders send their mules round from Montenvert to Les Tines or the Chapeau 
to meet them. The excursion to the Fl^^re alone takes 5 hrs., and that to 
the Montenvert or the Chapeau about the same time. Those who come 
from the E., and have spent the night at ArgenHhre, should leave the road 
near Lavaneher (p. 256) and proceed by the Chapeau , the Mer de Glace 
(comp., however, p. 260) and Montenvert to Chamonix from La Joux 
(p. 256), on the right bank of the Arve ; but the path is bad and unsuitable 
for riding, and cannot be found without a guide (boy 1-lVx fr.). 

On a cloudy afternoon, when the views from the heights are concealed, 
he Glacier deb Bossons (p. 251) is the best object for a walk (there and 
ack 3 hrs.). — To the Cascade de Blaiti^re, on the hill-side to the B. of 



J. 

r. ' 
r. 



Montenvtrt. CHAMONIX. 72. Route. 249 

Cbamonix, Vs ^^' (hardly worth seeing ; adm. V2 f'0> — 7o the Payxllon 
DE LA Pi£SBE PoiNTUE fp. 252) and back, 5-6 hrs. ; or, including the Aiguille 
de la Tour and Pierre a rEchelle, a whole day. — To the Jabdik (p. 250) 
from the Montenvert fwhere the night is spent) and back, 7-8 hrs. (from 
Chamonix and back 11-12 hrs. ; guide necessary). — Ascent of the BaivsNT 
(p. 251) and back, 7 hrs. \ ascent or descent by the Fl^g^re 2 hrs. more. 

The ♦Valley of Cliamoniz (3445'-, pop. about 4000), or Cha- 
mounyj 12 M. long, V2 M. wide, watered by the Arve^ runs from 
N.E. to S.W., from the Col de Balme to Les Houches. It is bounded 
on the S.E. by the Mont Blanc chain, with its huge ice-cataracts, the 
Olacier du Tour, d'Argentieret des Bois (Mer de Olace), and des Bos- 
sons; and on the N.W. by the Aiguilles Rouges and the Brivent. 

A Benedictine priory first brought the valley into cultivation at the g 

beginning of the 12th cent., but the reputation of the inhabitants was for I 

a longperiod so bad that when St. Francis de 8ale$^ Bishop of Geneva \ 

(1602-22), visited the then pathless wilds on foot, this was considered an \ 

act of the utmost temerity. The valley became better known in 1743, 
when the celebrated traveller Pococke and a Hr. Wyndham visited and I 

explored it in all directions, and published their observationB in the Mer- ^ 

cure Suisse. Curiosity and enterprise were further stimulated by the publi- i 

cations of the Genevese naturalists de Saussure, de Luc , Bourrit , Pictet, I 

and others. Since that time Chamonix has become a great centre of at- | 

traction for travellers, especially English, American, and French, and is 
visited by upwards of 15,000 annually. It is inferior to the Bernese Ober- ' 

land in picturesqueness of scenery , but superior in the grandeur of its 
glaciers, in which respect it has no rival but Zermatt. 

In front of the H6tel Royal, where the route to Mont Blanc (to j 

the right) diverges from that to the Mer de Glace (to the left), rises I 

the *SaiiMUxe Monument, unveiled in August, 1887, on the cen- j 

tenary of the first ascent of Mont Blanc, and consisting of a bronze ] 

group (by Salmson of Q-eneva) on a granite pedestal , representing 
Saussure conducted by Balmat (p. 253). Another small menu- t 

ment to Balmat stands in front of the church. \ 

The ^Montenvert, or Montanvert (6303' ; 2^2 ^^s- i S^lde un- ' 

necessary), an eminence on the E. side of the valley, is visited for ! 

the sake of the view it affords of the vast 'sea of ice which fills the 
highest gorges of the Mont Blanc chain in three branches (Olacier 
du Qiant or du Taeul, Olacier de Leschaux, and Olacier de Ta- 
llfre), and which descends Into the valley in a huge stream of ice, 
about 4^2^- loi^S and 1/2-174^* broad, called the Mer de Olaee , ^ 

above the Montenvert, and the Olacier des Bois below it. The bridle- 
path leads to the left by the H6tel Royal, passes the little English 
church, and crosses the meadows (to the left of the cemetery-wall) to 
the (74 hr.) houses of Les MouiUes. We now ascend through pine- 
wood to the right (again turning to the right after ^4 hr.), past the 
Chalets desPlanards, to (Ihr.) Lc CaiW^t (4880' ; auberge), a spring 
by the wayside. Farther on (10 min.), a bridle-path to the left de- 
scends to Les Bois (p. 250). Our path ascends gradually through 
wood to the (1 hr.) *H6tel du Montenvert (R., L., & A. 4, B. 2, D. 
41/2 fr.), at the top of the hill, commanding the *Mer de Olace and 
the mountains around it : opposite us rises the huge Aiguille duDru 
(12,5179 ; to the left of it are the snow-clad ilt'^wiHe y«ree (13,540') 



.1 



250 Route 72. CHAMONIX. Chapeau. 

and the lower Aig. du Bochard (8766') , to the right the Aig. du 
Jtfoinc(ll,214') ; farther distant are the Grandes Jorasses (13,800'), 
the Mont MalUt (13,0860, and the Aig. du Q£ant (13,1570; and 
immediately behind us tower the AiguiUeB de Charmot (11,2940 
and de BlaitUre (11,5960- 

From the Montenvers travellers usually cross the Ker de Olace 
to the (1^2 ^r-) Chapeau^ opposite. A path descends the left lateral 
moraine to (^^ hr.) the glacier (where guides are generally to be 
found at the hut; woollen socks to prevent slipping, 1 fr.). The 
passage of the glacier (10-15 min.; guide, unnecessary for the ex- 
perienced, 2^/2fT.j or to the Chapeau 5fr.) presents no difficulty. 
At one point, where the path leads between crevasses, steps are 
hewn in the ice (fee). On the opposite side we ascend over loose 
stones and d^ris to the (Y4 hr.) top of the right lateral moraine 
(refreshmts.), skirting which we then descend by a narrow path to 
the ^Mauvai8JPcu*y a steep rock, where the path is hewn In steps and 
flanked with iron rods attached to the rocks, and the (40 mln.) Cha- 
peau. Guides for travellers making this excursion in the reverse 
direction are not always to be found at the Chapeau ; If required, 
they should be brought firom Chamonlx (from the H6t. du Mauvals 
Pas at Lavancher, 6 fr. , see below). 

The *Cluipean (5082'; auberge), a projecting rock on the N.E. 
side of the Glacier des Bois, at the base of the AiguUle dfU Boehard 
(87660; is considerably lower than the Montanvert, but fiommands 
an excellent survey of the ice-fall of the Glacier des Bois and the 
Chamonlx YaUey. In the background Mont Mallet (13,0860 and 
the Aiguille du Oiant (13,1570 ; to the right the Aiguilles de Char" 
mo« (11,2940, de Biai«ir€ (11,5960, and d« Afidi (12,6100, ^^ 
D6me du GoiUer (14,2100, ^^^ t^o ^Uf- du GoUter (12,7100- 

A bridle-path descends the moraine from the Chapeau, In view 
of the ice-pinnacles of the Glacier des Bois and the Aiguille 
du Dru , and then through pine-wood. After 25 min. it divides : 
to the right to (V4 hr.) Lavancher (*H6t. du Mauvaifl Pas ; p. 256), 
to the left to (V4 hr.) Lea Tinee (p. 256). A shorter path , but 
rough at places , and unfit for riding, diverges 5 min. above this 
bifurcation (20 mln. from the Chapeau) to the left, and descends the 
moraine (passing the source of the Aiveyron below on the left) to 
Les Boie and (40 mln.) Les Prat (see below). — The Source of the 
Arveyron (1 hr. from Chamonlx, road as far as Lee Bote) is not now 
worth visiting owing to the retrogression of the Glacier des Bois. 

Tbe *'Jaidiii (9144'; guide necessary, p. 248) is a triangular rook rising 
from the midst of the Glacier de Tali/re ^ and walled in by moraines. 
Aronnd a spring in the midst of this oasis Alpine flowers bloom in August. 
From the Montenvers, where the night is passed, we skirt the somewhat 
dizzy rocks of Let Fonts to the right and traverse the moraine to the AiHfle; 
here we take to the crevassed Mer de Glace, and ascend it for 2V2-3 hrs. 
to the foot of the Siraa de Tal^re. We now turn to the right, ascend 
past the Pierre d Bdranger, on the 8. side of the S^racs (*/4-i hr. •, a 
wooden hut halfway up) , and cross the Tal^fre Glacier to the (25 min.) 
Jardin. This excursion makes us acquainted with the grand icy wilds of 



tJ 



GlacUr de$ Bossons, GHAMONIX. 72. Route. 251 

the Mont Blanc group ; tboagh somewhat fatigoing, it presents no difflcalty 
to good walkers, and is even undertaken by ladies. Froyisions necessary. 

The *FlighTe (5925'; ascent from Chamonix 3, descent 2 hrs.), 
to the N. of Chamonix, is a buttress of the AiguiUe de la Floria 
(9690') , one of the highest peaks of the AigttUlea Rouges. We fol- 
low the Argenti^re road to (1^2 M.)'Lcs Chdbles. The direct foot- 
path diverges to the left on this side of the Arve bridge , leading in 
12 min. through pastures to the foot of the mountain, where the 
ascent begins. (The bridle-route, a few minutes longer, crosses the 
Arve to Les Praz, after 10 mln. diverges to the left by a small pine- 
copse, crosses the Arve and is joined by the path just mentioned.) 
We' now ascend the stony slope in long zigzags. After 35 mln. we 
enter the wood to the fight, pass (35 min.) the CJtalet des Praz (au- 
berge) , and In 1 hr. more reach the Croix de la Fleglre (Couttet's 
Inn, well spoken of, lunch 3^2 » pens. 6-6 fr.). The *Vlew 
(comp. Panorama) embraces the entire chain of Mont Blanc , from 
the Col de Balme to the Glacier des Bossons and beyond It. Exactly 
opposite us lies the basin of the Glacier des Bois (Mer de Glace) ^ en- 
closed by the sharply defined Aiguilles : to the left the Aig. du Dm 
and the huge snow-clad Aig. Verte; to the right the Aig. de Char- 
mozj de Blaitihrej du Plan, and du Midi. The summit of Mont Blanc 
Is also distinctly seen, but is less striking than the lower peaks owing 
to its greater distance. The jagged pinnacles of the Aiguilles Rouges 
also present a singular appearance. Evening light most favourable. 

From the Fleglre the hridle-path continues to (1 hr.) the Chalet de la 
Floria^ from which the Aiguille de la Floria (9686'), affording a magni- 
ficent view to the W. as far as the Lake of Geneva, may be ascended, 
with guide, in 3 hrs. 

The ♦BrAvent (8274'), the S.W. prolongation of the Aiguilles 
Rouges, affords a similar but finer view: While from the Fl^ggre the 
Mer de Glace and the Aiguille Verte are the chief features , Mont 
Blanc is here revealed in all Its grandeur ; to the right of the Buet 
and the Aiguilles Rouges we also see the Bernese Alps, and to the 
S.W. the Alps of the Dauphintf. The new bridle-path (41/2 lirs.) 
leads from Chamonix to the W., passing the hamlets of La Mola 
and Les Mossonsj and ascends through wood to (1 Y2 ^'0 Plan-Naehat 
(4833' ; anberge), an admirable point of view ; and then in numer- 
ous zigzags to the (l^/^hr.) Plan Bel Achat (io276^; restaur, with beds, 
dear) , on a saddle to the S.W. of the summit. Thence to the top, 

passing the sombre little Lac du Brivent, VU hr. more. 

Or we may ascend the *Chemin Huletier de Chamonix a SLxf (p. 254) 
to (3 hrs.) Planpraz ; then mount rather steeply to the left , and lastly 
through a rocky gully {la Cheminie, provided with bars to assist climbers 
but, especially for the descent, recommanded only to experts) to the (1 V4 hr.) 
summit. — The Br^vent may also be combined with the Fl^gere. The 'Eoute 
de Planpraz', a well-defined path, diverges to the right from tile Fl^g^re 
path, about 20 min. below the Croix de la Fl^g^re, and follows the slope of 
the mountain, in full view of the Mont Blanc chain, passing the Chalet* de 
Charlanox halfway, to the (2 hrs.) inn of Planpraz (p. 264), which is visible 
from the Fl^g^re 

To the Glacier del BosBons an interesting walk (S hrs. there 



252 BouU72. CHAMONIX. Mont mane. 

and bftck; gnlde necessary for crossing the glacier, from Ohamonix 
6, from the chalet on the left side of the glacier 2 fr. ; woollen 
socks to prevent slipping, 1 fr.). On the left bank of the Arve we 
pass the hamlets of Le Prat Conduit^ Lea BaratSj and (by the upper 
path, to the left) Les Tsoura ; here we torn to the left, ascend through 
wood on the right bank of the brook to the (25 min.) Cascade du 
Dard (auberge) , a fine double fall, and then cross the broad stony 
bed of the Nant des PHerins. (After 5 min. the path to the Pierre 
Pointue diverges to the left; see below.) Beyond two more brooks 
we reach the (^2 ^^0 ^Ig^ moraine of the Olacier des Bossons , and 
cross the glacier in about ^4 ^r. to the Pavilion Fonciere (auberge) 
on the left moraine. Fine view of the huge glacier, which has be- 
gun to advance of late, overshadowed by the Mont Blanc du Tacul 
(13,9430. On the left rise the Aiguilles du Midi (12,6100 and de 
Blaitihre (11,5960- ^ '^^sit to the grotto hewn in the glacier, 85 yds. 
long , is interesting (adm. and lights 1^2 ^^O* ^^ descend by Les 
Bossons to the Pont de Perralotaz (p. 247), and return to Cha- 
monix by the high-road on the right bank of the Arve. 

The *Favillon de la Pierre Pointiie (67220 is another favour- 
ite point (bridle-path, 2^^-^ hrs.; horse 8fr. ; guide unnecessary). 
Beyond the bridge across the Nant des Pllerins (V2 hr.; see above) 
we diverge to the left and ascend in zigzags on the side of a wild val> 
ley, through which the Nant Blanc dashes over rocks, to the (1 hr.) 
Chalet de la Para (52660. Then through wood and pastures to the 
(I1/4 hr.) Pavilion de la Pierre Pointue (Restaur., lunch 3Y2 ^^0? ^^ 
the brink of the huge Glacier des Bossons, with its beautiful ice-fall. 
Opposite, apparently quite near, rise Mont Blanc, tiie D6me du Gofiter, 
the Aiguille du Goiter, etc.; also a superb view to the N. and W. 

An interesting point is the Aiguill« do la Tour, which commands the 
best survey of the Glacier des Bossons (1 hr. , guide desirable; ascend 
to the left by the payilion). — The Piorre k rEohoUe (791(y) is another 
fine point (iV^ hr. ; guide advisable). The narrow path (route to Mont 
Blanc, see below) leads by the pavilion to the right, round an angle of 
rock, and ascends to the brink of the Glacier des Bossons (where falling 
stones are sometimes dangerous). Admirable view of the riven ice-masses 
of the glacier : above them the Aiguille du Godter, the Borne du Goilter, 
the Bosses du Dromadaire, and the highest peak of Mont Blanc ; in the 
foreground are the Grands MuleU^ 2V2 hrs. distant (guide necessary). — 
A pleasant way back from the Pierre Pointue is by the Han de l*Aigixille 
(IVs hr.; no defined path, guide advisable), over grassy slopes and the 
moraine of the Olacier des PHerins. We then ascend a little to the Plan 
de VAiguille^ or La Tapiaz (74870i lying ftt the foot of the pinnacles of 
the Aiguille du Plan (12,053') and the Aiguille du Midi (12,6100. Superb view 
of the valley of Chamonix, with the Bernese Oberland and Dauphin^ Mts. 
in the distance. We descend by the Chalets sur le Rocker to Tsours (p. 252) 
and (2 hrs.) Chamonix. 

Mont Blanc (15,7309, the monarch of European mountains 
(Monte Rosa 15,366', Finsteraarhorn 14,026', Ortler 12,812'; the 
Pic de Ntfthou, the highest of the Pyrenees, lljlTOQ, which since 
1860 has formed the boundary between France and Italy, is composed 
chiefly of Alpine granite or protogine. It was ascended for the first 



Col du Geant. GHAMONIX. 7^. RawU. 253 

time in 1786 by the ^ide Jacques B»lmat, and by Dr. Paccard tbe 
same year. In 1787 the ascent was made by the naturalist H. B, 
de Saussure, with eighteen guides , and described by him with his 
yaluable scientific observations; in 1825 it was accomplished by Dr. 
E. Clarke and Captain Sherwill, and in 1827 by Mr, Auldjo. In 
summer the ascent is now made almost daily, but travellers are caU' 
tioned against attempting it in foggy or stormy weather , as fatal 
accidents have not unfrequently occurred on the mountain. The 
view from the summit is unsatisfactory. Owing to their great dis- 
tance, all objects appear indistinct; even in the clearest weather 
the outlines only of the great chains, the Swiss Alps, the Jura, and 

the Apennines are distinguishable. 

According to the regulations laid down by the authorities of Ghamo- 
nix, one traveller ascending Mont Blanc requires two guides (100 fr. each) 
and one porter (50 fr.), each additional member of the party one guide 
more ; but for experienced mountaineers one guide and one porter suffice. 
When the ^hotel biir on the Grands-Mulets and other items are added, the 
minimum cost of the ascent usually comes to 220-250 fr. for one person. On 
the first day travellers usually ascend by the Pavilion de la Pierre Potntue (see 
above) to the (7hrs.) Oranda-mulets (10,007' ; Inn with 4 rooms ; bed 4, lunch 
3, D. 6, Vin ordinaire 4V»fr.) ; on the second they proceed by the Petit-Plateau 
to the (3 hrs.) Orand-Ptateau (12,900'), and, bearing to the right (the usual 
route), ascend by the D6me du OoHter and the Bosses du Dromadaire (or 
to the left by the Corridor, the Mur de la C6te^ and the PetiU-Mulets, 15,310') 
to the summit in 3-4 hours. They descend the same day to the Grands- 
Hulets, and on the third day regain Chamonix (or the whole descent 
may be made on the second day). — Fboh St. Gekyais (p. 246), by the Col 
de Voza (p. 260) , to the (8-10 hrs.) Aiguille du QoHter (12,710*) , where the 
guides of St. Gervais have erected a hut (spend night)-, thence by the Ddme 
du OoHter and the Bosses (see above) in 5-6 hrs. to the top. — From Cocb- 
HATJCua (p. 264) 16 »8.; to the Pavilion du Monthlanc 2V2, Col du Oiant 
Syz-i hrs.; thence over the Glacier du Oiant and through the ValUe Blanche 
in 2V2 hrs. to the Cabane du Tacul (11,693'), at the S. base of the Aiguille 
du Midi (iJSjSlO'), where the night is spent. Lastly a toilsome ascent of 
7-8 hrs. on the ice-slopes of Mont Blanc du Tacul and Mont Maudit to the 
Corridor and the summit. Another route leads from the Combal Lake 
(p. 263) across the Glacier de Miage to the Cabane de VAiguille Grise 
(l0,93HB') on the Rocher du Mont Blanc, 8 hrs, or to the Rifugio Qu'ntino Sella 
0[2,136'), 9 hrs. from Courmayeur, whence the top is attained in 7-8 hrs. 
The ascent over the Glacier du Brouillard is very difficult and hazardous. 
— A most interesting excursion, free from danger, is the ascent of the 
D6me du Gouter (14,210' ; see above), 4-4V2 hrs. from the Grands Mulets ; 
guide from Chamonix 60 fr. 

Tottr du Mont Blanc, see R. 75. 

Fboh Chamonix to Codbmateub oveb the Col du G^ant, 15-16 hrs., 
a trying glacier-pass, but most interesting, and for adepts not difficult 
(guide 50, porter 30 fr.). After a night at the H6tel du Montenvert (p. 249) 
we traverse the upper part of the Mer de Olace and the Glacier du Tacul, 
or du Giant, the jagged 'seracs' of which must sometime* be mounted by 
ladders. On the right we pass the Mont Blanc du Tacul (13,943'), and on 
the left the Aiguille or De»t du Gictnt (13159' ; first ascended by the brothers 
Sella in 18^, and in about 6 hrs. reach the Col du CMant (11,033'), between 
Les Flcmbeatue (11,700*) on the right and the Aiguilles Marbries (11,529*) on 
the left, with two refuge-huts and splendid view. We then descend almost 
perpendicular rocks on the S. side to the Pavilion du Montblanc or du 
Fruitier (p. 264) and Courmayeur. — Other passes cross the Mont Blane 
range from Chamonix to Courmayeur (all very difficult, and for tho« 
rough adepts only) : the Ool de Triolet (12,162') at the head (E. end) of 



254 BmgU72. SAMOENS. 

the Gkteier d6 Tal^rty between the Aig. de TrMd and the Aiff. de TaU/re ; 
the Ool de Fierre-Joaeph , to the S. of the Aiff. de Tali/re; the Col des 
Hirondelles (13,452') between the Petites and the Grandes Jorattet ; the Col 
de Kiage (11,076')) S- of the Aig. de Bionnauay (on the Italian side, 2hr8. be- 
low the Col, a refage-hnt of the Italian Alpine Clab): and the Col do Trelateto 
^. 261). — F&oJK ChjUionix to Oksi&ses over the Col d'Argentiere (11,565'), 
20 hrs., very difficult; from the Pavilion de Lognan (p. 256) the Glacier 
d*Argentiire is traversed to the col, l3ring to the S. of the Tour Noire 
(12,606'), with a superb view; then a lone *nd haaardouB descent over the 
Glacier de la Neuva to the Vol Ferret (p. 264). Somewhat less difficult, but 
for adepts only : Col dn Chardonnet (10,9T90, between the Aig. d'Argentikre 
and the Aig. du Chardimnet (descent over the Glacier de Saleinaz to Praz 
de Fort, p. 264). Also the Col dn Tour (iO,9d2'): from the Col deBalme 
to Orsiu^s 11-12 hrs. ; a toilsome ascent over the Glacier du Tour to the 
pass on the S. side of the Aig. du Tour; descent across the Glacien du Trient 
and dWmy to the Cabane cTOmy (8835')^ and through the Combe d*Omy to 
Som la Prot (p. 265) and Ortikret (p. 276). 

FbOX CHAKOim TO SiXT OVES THS COL DU Bb^VENT AKO THE COL 

d''Ant£BKe , bridle-path, 10 hrs. (mule 18 fr., return-fee included; guide, 
unnecessary in settled weather, or porter, 18 fr.). Comp. Map, p. 260. The 
^Chemin Muletier de (}hamonix k Slzt* leads from the W. end of Uie village, 
past the church, to the foot of the mountain, and ascends through wood in 
windings to the (IVzhr.) Restaur, des Chahlette* (fine view). Farther on it qutis 
the wood and zigzags up a barren slope to the (IVz hr.) chalets of Planpras 
(6773'; Inn, dear; ascent of the Br^vent, see p. 251). To the Coldn Bre- 
vent (8078') '/a ^^' niore. "We then descend a slope, carpeted with Alpine 
plants, into the valley of the Diosaz (5413'), which (IV4 hr.) we cross by a 
wooden bridge. [With a guide, the traveller may here turn to the right 
and ascend by the chalets of Villp and the Col de Salenton (82T7') in 6 hrs. 
to the summit of the Buet , see p. 256.] We now ascend to the left to 
the (2 hrs.) •Col d'Anteme (742o'); magnificent retrospective view of 
Mont Blanc. The path descends past the Lae d'Anteme, leaving the 
Chalets d''Aateme below to the left , to the (2 hrs.) Chalets des Fonds (Al- 
pine fare), near which is ^Eagle^s Kesf*, the sunu||er residence of Mr. 
Wills. The bridle-path descends the picturesque ValWe des Fonds, watered 
by a tributary of the Oifire (see below). Near (1 hr.) Salvagny, a fine cas- 
cade on the left. Then (Vzhx.) Sizt (2483'; mui du Fer it Cheval, B. & L. 
3, B. \}/%, D. 3 fr.). In spring, when the brooks are swollen by the melt- 
ing snow, the neighbourhood of Sixt abounds in fine waterfalls, there 
being no fewer than thirty in the upper part of the valley alone , called 
from its shape ValUe du Fer it Cheval. In summer and autumn, however, 
the number dwindles to five or six. Near Fond de la Combe, at the head of 
the valley (3 hrs. from Sixt ; carriage-road) there is another waterfall in a 
vault of snow , 100 paces long. [The above route, the most striking of all 
the approaches to Mont Blanc, is far preferable in the reverse direction: 
from Sixt to the Chalets des Fonds I'/i hr. ; a few min. farther the bridle- 
path turns to the right and crosses the brook (the path to the left ascends 
to the Col Lichaud, or Col des Fonds, p. 234); 3Vshrs. Col d^Anteme, at 
the foot of which the path turns to the left (that to the right leads 
to Servoz) ; 1 hr. bridge over the Diosaz ; 2 hrs. Col du Brivent ; 2 hrs. 
Chamonix.\ 

Path from Sixt over the Col de Sagerou (7917') to Champi^ry (ascex&t 
of Mont Buan), see p. 234. — The Pointe de Tenneverge (9780*), by the 
Col de Tenneterge, in 9 hrs., is a difficult ascent, but commands a splen- 
did view. — The Pointe Pelouse (8118'), ascended by the Lac de Gers in 
6 hrs., presents no difficulty; fine view of Mont Blanc. The descent may 
be made by the Desert de Plati and to Escaliers de Plati to St. Gertais 
(p. 246), bv a dizzy path, recalling the Gemmi. 

In the* valley of the Giffre, i^t M. below Sixt, lies the little town of 
Bamofina (2490^; pop. 2540; i^d^ de la Posts; H6i. du Commerce, both unin- 
viting). Fine view from the small chapel above the church (10 min.). 
From Samoena we may proceed to the N., either to the left across the Col 



LES PRAZ. 73. BouU. 255 

de Jouplane (6683' ; inn), or to the right across the Chi de la GoUse (5483'), 
to (4 hrs.) Morzine (Hot. du Chamois), and then descend the valley of the 
Drance to Thonon on the Lake of Geneva (p. 231); or to the E. over the 
Col de la Golise and Col de Coux (6825') to (6V2 hrs.) Champiry in the Val 
d'llliez (p. 228); or to the W. hy omnibus through the valley of the GifTre 
(daily in 7 hrs., fare 5fr.), by (iSVa M.) Taninges (whence a road leads to 
Bonneville, p. 245), and (9 H.) Si. Jeotre^ to Annemasse and (21V2 M.) Oe- 
tieva (Bue de Bive, 13). From Samoens at 4.30 a.m., from Geneva at 10a.m. 
Fjboic Chamonix to Sixt bt the Mont Buet, interesting, but fatiguing, 
13-14. hrs. (guide necessary, 23 fr. incl. return). To (6 M.) ArgentUre, and 
to the (1 hr.) entrance to the Birard Valley^ see p. 256. We ascend this 
valley to the (3 hrs.) Chalet de la Pierre d( Birard (pass night); then over 
loose stones and snow to the (3V2 hrs.) summit of the ^Buet (10,197'); 
magnificent view of the Mont Blanc range , Monte B.osa , the Matterhorn, 
the Bernese Alps with the Finsteraarhom and Jungfrau, the Dent du Midi, 
and the Jura as far as the mountains of Dauphin^. I>e8cent to the S.W. 
by the Col de Leehaud, or des Fonde (p. 254), to the (2s/4 hrs.) Chalets des 
Fonds and (IV4 hr.) SixU 

73. From Chamonix to Martigny by the Tete-Koire, 
or to Vemayaz by Triquent and Salvan. 

Comp. Mapy p. 260. 

BoAD to Chatelard \}/^ hrs.; thence over the Tete-Koire to Martigny 
41/4 hrs., or by Salvan to Vemayaz 4 hrs. — The Mastigky Boad, beyond 
Chatelard, is narrow, and bad at places (driving not advisable in wet 
weather); carr. and pair for one person 50 fr., for each additional person 
10 fr. more (to Argenti^re only, 6, 7, 8, 10 fr.); to Tour 9, 10, 11, 15 fr.; 
to Chatelard 30. 30, 36, 40 fr.). From Martigny to Trient 1-3 pers. 30, 
4 pers. 40 fr.; TSte- Noire 35 or 45, Chatelard 40 or 50 fr.; Chamonix, 
1-2 pers. 50, 3 pers. 60, 4 pers. 70 fr. (if a night is spent on the way, 
15 fr. more). The use of return-carriages is prohibited in both directions, 
unless the same hirer engages the vehicle to go and return. The traveller 
6hould stipulate for the use of the same vehicle all the way ; and if he in- 
tends continuing his journey by rail from Martigny or Vemayaz, payment 
may be made conditional on catching the train. — Fbou Vernataz to 
Chamonix a small gig for 1-2 pers. 50 fr. (from Chamonix to Vernayaz 
65 fr., changing carriages at Chatelard); office at Vernayaz opposite the 
Grand Hotel des Gorges du Trient. — Guide (12 fr.) for either route of 
course superfluous. Luggage may be sent on by carriage by arrangement 
with the porter of the hotel (1V2-2 fr.). 

Two BoADS and a Bridle Path connect the valley of Chamonix with 
the Valais. A road leads from Chamonix by Argenti^re and Valorcine 
to Chatelard, whence one road to the right leads by the T§te-Koire, 
Trient, and the Col de la Forclaz to Martigny, and the other to the left 
to Finhaut, Salvan, and Vernayaz. The bridle-path diverges to the right 
from the road at Argenti^re, crosses the Col de Balme, and rejoins the 
road at the Col de la Forclaz. Of these routes the road over the Tdte- 
Koire to Martigny is the most frequented, but is less interesting than that 
to Salvan and Vernayaz, which affords finer and more varied views. The 
path over the Col de Balme, on the other hand, though less interesting 
on the whole, commands a superb view of the valley of Chamonix and 
Mont Blanc, which are not seen to advantage from the other routes. Tra- 
vellers from Martigny, approaching Mont Blanc for the first time, should 
therefore choose the Col de Balme in clear weather. 

The road ascends the valley and crosses the Arve to (I72M.) Les 

Prax (*H6t.-Pens. du Chalet des Praz ; Pens. Gouttet, 'k la Mer de 

Glace"; both moderate). The village of Les Bois and the Glacier des 

Bois remain on the right. At (IY2 M.) Les Tines (*A la Mer de 

Glace ; An Tourlste) a path to the Chapeau diverges to the right 



256 Route 73. ARGENTlfeRE. From Chamonix 

(p. Q50). The road ascends through a wooded defile to (8/4 M.) La- 
vancher (3848'; ♦H6t.-Pen8. du Mauvais Pas, with view of Mont 
Blanc, R. 2, pens, from dfr.), on the right, ahove the road. (To 
the Chapean, see p. 250.) About V2^* farther a bridge crosses the 
Arve to La Joux, situated to the left, behind a hill. (Ascent of the 
Fl^g^re, see p. 251.) We next pass the hamlets of Lea lies, OrasO' 
net J and (IM.) Les Chosalets, cross the Arve, and reach (8/4 M.) — 

6 M. ArgenU^re (3963'; *Couronne, B., L., & A.3, D. 4, 
pens. 6-7 fr.; BtUevue')^ a considerable village, where the huge 
glacier of that name descends into the valley between the Aiguille 
Verte (13,540') and the AiguiUe du Chardonnet (12,5431. 

'^Glacier d'Argentiere. Bridle-path from Les Chosalets (see above) to 
the (2 hrs.) Pavilion dt Lcgnan (65i63'; Inn kept by the guides J. Tour- 
nier and Al. Simon) ; 1/4 ^t. higher we obtain a splendid survey ot the grand 
^s^racs** of the glacier (where ice-avalanches are frequent). In 1/2 hr. (guide 
necessary, to be brought from Chamonix) more we reach the flat upper 
part €i the glacier, almost free from crevasses (Mtr dtt QUue d*Ar- 
gentiire)^ and may walk on it without hazard. The middle of it affords 
a striking view of the surrounding Aiguilles (du Oh&rdonnet, d^Argen- 
ti^re, Tour Noire, Mt. Dolent, Les Courtes, Les Droites, Aig. Verte). 
We may then ascend the glacier (with guide, 3 hrs.) to the *^Jardin\ a 
triangular rock at the base of the Mont Dolent, with fine flora in summer 
(not the Jardin above Chamonix). — Col cTArgentiire and Col du Char- 
donnet^ see p. 254. — From the Pavilion we may return to the chalets 
of Loffnan and Pendant y and follow the Chapeau route to (2V2 hrs.) Les 
Tinee (see above). 

Beyond the village the new Tete-Noire road ascends to the left in 
bold windings. Beyond the (25 min.) hamlet of TrSleehamp we 
obtain a fine retrospect of the Glacier du Tour and the magnificent 
Aiguille Verte. The (1/4 hr.) top of the pass (Col des MonteU, 4741'), 
the watershed between the Rhone and the Arve, commandis a final 
view of the Mont Blanc chain. 

The road now turns to the W. side of the valley and gradually 
descends, passing (20 min.) a finger-post which indicates the way 
to the left to the (20 min.) picturesque *Ca8cade & Bircard , or b, 
PoyaZj in a wild ravine, a digression to which adds Y2 ^^* ^ ^^^ 
walk. Through this ravine, the VaUie de BSrard, runs the route to 
the Buet (10,197') , the top of which is visible in the background 
(see p. 255). Our road crosses the (*/4 hr.) Eau-Noire (Auberge ; 
to the waterfall 10 min. from this point). 

We next traverse a lonely valley bounded by lofty, pine-clad 
mountains. Before us rises the Bel-Oiseau (8609'). In 10 min. 
more we reach the first houses of the scattered village of Valoroine 
(4232'; pop. 640), and (25 min.) its church, protected against 
avalanches by a bulwark of masonry. The valley contracts. The road 
descends to the Eau-Noire, which dashes over the rocks, and (5 min.) 
crosses it in a picturesque wooded ravine. The (V4 hr.) Hdtel de 
Barberine (rustic, not always open) stands at the confiuence of the 
£au-Noire and the Barberine, which forms a waterfall here, and a 
finer one 1/2 ^^' higher up (1 fr.). We cross (5 min.) the Eau-Noire 
by a bridge (3684'), the boundary between France and Switzerland, 



to Martigny. TISTE-NOIBE. 73. Route. 257 

pass the small H6t. Suisse au Chdtelard (mediocre and dear), and 
leaeh (6 min.) the *H6t. Royal du Chdtelard j halfway between Oha- 
monlx and Martigny, 4^4 hrs. from each, where the two routes to the 
Rhone Valley separate : to the right the road over the Tete-Noire to 
Martigny ; to the left the road via Triqnent and Salvan to Yernayaz 
(see below). 

Fbom Chatblabs to Mabtiont (4^4 hrs.). The road passes 
through a cutting in the rock with an archway of masonry and 
crosses the Eau-Noire. The once dangerous Mapaa (mauvaU paa) 
descends to the left, while the new road leads high above the deep 
and sombre valley, being hewn in the rocks of the (8/4 hr.) Tdte- 
Voire, or La Roche-Percie, To the N.W. rises the Bet-Oiseau 
(SOIOQ; to the N.E., above the valley of Trient, appear the Dent 
de Morcles (p. 222) and Orand-Maveran (p. 222). We next reach 
(10 min. ; from Argentidre 3 hrs.) the Hdtel de la TeteNoire (4003'). 
A wooden belvedere, which we reach 2 min. before the inn, affords 
a fine survey of the grand gorge of the Eau-Noire. 

A path descends by the inn to the left to the C20 min.) Gorges Myst^ 
rieuses, a ravine of the Trieni^ with a waterfall and a miniature lake, 
above the influx of the Eau-Noire, rendered accessible in 1884. Tickets 
at the inn (1 fr., with guide). 

The road here turns suddenly to the right into the dark and 
beautiful forest of Trient, skirting the base of the Tete-Noire. In 
the valley, far below, is the brawling Trient, which joins the Eau- 
Noire a little farther on. Where the wood is quitted, the valley 
widens, and we reach (^2 trO the village of Trient (4250'; JB6t,- 
Pens, des Alpes , well spoken of; H6t, du Glacier de Trient, mod- 
erate), a little beyond which the road is joined by the path from 
Chamonix over the Col de Balme (p. 259). 

From Trient the road ascends somewhat steeply to the (V2 ^^0 
Col de Trienty better known as Ck>l de la Forclas (4997'; tavern). 
The view hence is limited,, but ^g h'- lower down we enjoy a noble 
survey of the Rhone Yalley as far as Sion. At our feet lies JUcirtiyny, 
reached in 2^/4 hrs. by the road (p. 258), or in I72 ^^- ^V ^^^ s*eep 
old path. 

Fbom Chatbla&d toYbbnataz (4 hrs.). The narrow road ascends 
from the H6t. Royal (see above) to the left, partiy by zigzags, 
for 40 min. , and at a cross turns to the right, towards Finhaut. 
Now nearly level, with views of the valleys of the Eau-Noire and 
the Trient (see above), the Glacier de Trient (p. 258), and the Aiguille 
du Tour, it next reaches (8/4 hr.) Finhaut, or Fins-Eauts (4060'; 
Pens, du Bel-Oiseau, Pens.-Bestaur. du Montblanc, both unpre- 
tending and good), beautifully situated. 

A path (the beginning of which should be asked for) leads hence direct 
to the (1 hr.) TSte-Noire Inn. It descends steeply to a wooden bridge 
over the Eau-I^oire, crosses it, ascends to the right, and passes several 
houses, where if necessary, a boy may be found to show the way. 
Farther on, the Tdte-Koire road soon becomes yisible (see above). 

Ascending a little, then level again, the road passes (V4 hr.) a 

Baedbkxs, Switzerland. 12th Edition. 17 



258 BowU74. COL D£ LA FORCLAZ. 

•Cantine (splendid ^iew), doBcends through wood in many windings, 
and leads along the slope of the hUl, past the hamlet of Triquent 
(32610, to the (3/4 hr.) *acrge8 du Trihge (anbeige at the bridge), 
with its pictnresqae waterfalls framed with rocks and dark pines 
(rendered accessible by wooden pathways; 1 fr.). For the next 
20 min. the road gradually ascends, and then descends between in- 
teresting marks of glacier striation to (V2 ^0 BalTan (3035'; 
*B6t.'Pena, dea Oorges du Triage, R., L., A A. 21/2-3, D. 4, pens. 
5-6 fr. ; * Union, moderate). 

To the *OaMade da SalMy, a fine fall of the Salan/t^ a good path 
leada in ^ min. by the hamlet of Les Oranges^ on the slope facing the 
Bhone Valley. The finest point of view is opposite the fall. Lower down 
the Salanfe forms the Pissevache Fall (p. 223). In retuning to Saltan we 
ei\joy a fine view of the snow-mountains ol the Great St. Bernard. — The 
Luiftin (914(y; 6 hrs. from Salvan^ with guide), ascended by the Ccl 
d'Emaney (7993*)^ affords a superb view of the Alps of Savoy, Valais, and 
Bern. Descent in 5 hrs., by SaUmfe and Vam (p. 284). 

From Salvan a good road, shaded by chestnuts, descends the 
steep slopes in windings to (3/4 hr.) Vemaya* (rail, stat., p. 223). 



74. From Martigny to Chamonix. Col de Balme. 

Comp. Map, p. 260. 

10 hrs. From Martigny to the Col de Balme 6, thence to Chamonix 4 
hours. Road trota Martigny to Trient, and from Tour to Chamonix. 
Carriages, see p. 266. Onide (12 fr.) unnecessary, if the following direc- 
tions be observed. Luggage may be sent on by carr. by arrangement 
with the hotel-porters (comp. p. 256). Horse or mule and attendant 24 fr. \ 
but from the Col to Tour the path is unfit for riding. Several inns and 
cabarets on the route. 

Martigwy, see p. 224. We follow the Great St. Bernard road through 
the long village of Martigny-Bourg (p. 224) to the (li/2M.)I>rafic« 
Bridge (1640^, and (4 min.) reach the hamlet of La Croix. A notice 
on a house here indicates the road to Chamonix, ascending to the right, 
through vineyards, orchards , and meadows, in numerous windings, 
which the rugged old path cuts off : 20 min. Les Bappes ; 35 min. Serg- 
fMux (3820^ ; i/4 hr. LtFay. The road here takes a wide bend to the 
right, which the old path cuts off. By the (3/4 hr.) Chalet de BeUevue 
we enjoy a fine retrospective survey of the Bhone Valley. Then 
(20 min.) Les Chavana (auberge), and an ascent of 40 min. more 
to the Col de la Forelu (4997'; Beataur., see p. 257), 3V2 hzs. 
from Martigny. 

From the pass a nearly level path, with a tramway for the ice- 
traffic, leads to the (1 hr.) ^G-lacier de Trient, the northernmost glacier 
of the Mont Blanc range (safe to walk upon; no guide required; may 
be reached by tram-car). 

After a descent of i/4 hr. the bridle-path to the Col de Balme 
diverges to the left from the Tete-Noire road (p. 257), and in 10 min. 
crosses a bridge opposite the upper houses of Trient (p. 257). We 
now ascend the meadows to the left (with the Glacier de Trient to 
the left, see above) and (20 min.) cross the Nant-Noir ('nant', pro- 
bably from natare, being the Savoyard word for a torrent), which 



COL DE BALME. 7i. Route, 259 

descends from the Mont des Herbaghres. We follow the right bank 
for about 200 paces, and then mount to the left In steep zigzags 
through the Forest of Magnin, which has been thinned by ava- 
lanches. After 1 hr. the path becomes more level, passes (Y4 hr.) 
a cantine and (V4lifO the chalets of Z«r6asi2r« (6660Q, and(V2hr.) 
reaches the *q61 de Balme (7224'; Hdtel SuUae, mediocre), 6 hrs. 
from Martigny, the boundary between Switzerland and France. This 
point commands a superb view of the whole of the Mont Blanc range : 
the Aiguilles du Tour , d'Argentidre, Verte, du Dru, de Gharmoz, 
and du Midi, Mont Blanc itself, and the D6me du Gofiter; and 
also of the valley of Ghamonlx as far as the Col de Yoza. On the 
right are the Aiguilles Rouges , to the left of them the Br^vent, 
and to the right the snow-clad Buet. In the opposite direction, over 
the Forclaz, we survey the Yalais and the mountains which separate 
it from the Bernese Oberland, the Gemmi with its two peaks, the 

Finsteraarhorn, Grimsel, and Furka. 

A still finer *Yiew is obtained from a second eminence to the right, 
with a white hoiindary«8tone, abont 1/2 1^'* ^-W. of the inn, at the foot of 
the Oroiz de Fer^ or Aiguille de Balme (7677'), the laat spur of the hills 
which rise abruptly above the Col de ^iJme. From this point Hont Blanc 
looks still grander; to the N.E. we see the entire chain of the Bernese 
Alps, rising like a vast white wall with countless pinnacles; and to the 
£., at our feet, lies the Tdte Noire ravine, with the Dent du Midi rising 
beyond it. The descent may be begun immediately from this point. The 
ascent of the Aiguille itself is recommended to good climbers (with guide). 
A cross 1/4 hr. below the inn on the path to Martigny is to the memory 
of Esoher von Berg, a young native of Ziirieh, who lost his life in at- 
tempting the ascent without a guide. 

Fbom the Gol be Balme to the TAtb-Noibe (2V2 brs.; no guide re*- 
quired in fine weather), interesting, and recommended to tiie toaveller 
who desires to visit both these points in one day either from the ithone 
Valley or from Ghamonix. To the W. of the Gol, behind the above- 
mentioned eminence with the boundary-stone, a narrow path leads nearly 
to the (lOmin.) brink of the T&te-Noire Valley , and then becomes in- 
distinct. We turn to the right (^.) and follow a slight depression for a 
few minutes until a number of heaps of stone become visible. The path 
soon re-appears and passes to the right of these (10 min.) heaps; 10 min., 
a group of chalets, before quite reaching which the path crosses a 
brook and descends rapidly to the left on its bank; Va hr., another group 
of chalets (pattis descending to the left to be avoided) ; 20 min. a third 
group of chalets. Beautiful view during the descent, embracing the entire 
Tdte-Koire valley, which presents a pleasant contrast to tbe Gol de Balme 
route. The path, now good and much frequented, passes several chalets 
and farms, and at length reaches (1 hr.) the H6iel de la TiU-Koire (p. 257). 
The views are less striking in the reverse direction. From Martigny to 
the Gol de Balme and back by this route about 11 hrs., from Ghamonix 
and back 12, from Ghamonix to Martigny 10-11 hrs. 

The path, now rough and steep, descends over pastures carpeted 
with rhododendrons and other Alpine flowers. On the right flows 
the Arve fp. 1249), which rises on the Col de Balme. We cross 
several small brooks, pass P/4 hr.) a heap of stones, and (^4 hr.) a 
second heap, resembling a hut without a roof, and reach (Y4 hr.) 
Le Tour (4695'), to the left of which is the fine Glacier du Tour. 
Carriage-road hence to Ghamonix (73/4 M.). The fragments of slate 
brought down by the Arve are carefully collected by the peasants, 

17* 



260 BouU 75. COL D£ YOZA. From Chamonix 

who coyer their fields with them in spring, thus causing the snow 
under them to melt several weeks earlier than would otherwise he 
the case. (Oarr. from Tour to Chamonix with one horse 6, with 
two 9-10 fr. ; those who intend to drive should take a carriage here 
if possible.) Ahout ^2 ^' beyond Tour we cross the Buisme, which 
drains the Qlader du Tour, and (1 M.) the Aive, and soon reach 
(^4 M.) ArgtntUre (p. 256; from the Col de Balme to Chamonix 
a walk of 4 hrs*, ascent 5-5^/) hrs.). 

75. From Chamonix to Conrmayenr over the Col dn 
Bonhomme and the Col de la Seigne. 

Comp. Mapy p. 2A8. 

Bbiplb Path. Three days: Ist, to Contamines 6>/« hrs. (or to Kant- 
Borrant 1*1 a hrs.); 2nd, to Hottets 71/2 hrs. from Contamines (or, inel. 
Pointe des Fours , i hr. more) \ 8rd , to Courmayeur S^/i hrs. — Gk)od 
walkers or riders may reach Counnayeur from Chamonix in two days, 
by spending the night at (9 hrs.) La Balme (p. 261): from La Balme to 
Courmayeur 11 hrs. — Or, omitting the Col de Yoza, we may drive from 
Chamonix to Contamines or to Notre Dame de. la Gfrorge, in which case 
Metfets is easily reached on the fi^st day and Courmayeur on the second. 
— Guide (not needed by good walkers in fine weather) from Chamonix 
to Courmayeur in two days 20, in three days 24 fr ; return-fee 16 fr. extra. 

The Tour of Koat Blano, as this route is called, is easy and interesting. 
The paths are good, except that over the Col des Fours which is unfit for 
riding. The views from the Pavilion deBellevue, the Col du Bonhomme, the 
Pointe des Fours* and the Col de la Seigne are very fine, and the scenery 
about Courmayeur ranks with the grandest among the Alps. To complete 
our circuit of Mont Blanc, we may return to Martigny over the Great 
St. Bernard or over the Col Ferret; but it is preferable to drive from 
Aosta to Chatillon, and cross the Th^odule Pass or Matterjoch to Zermatt. 

We follow the Geneva road (p. 246) from Chamonix to (3^2 M.) 

the hamlet of La GriaZj turn to the left and cross the deep bed of 

the Nant de la Grias to (d/4 M.) Lm Houches (H6t. du Glacier, poor), 

with a picturesquely situated church. Two paths diverge hence to 

the left. The first (a footpath, preferable ; finger-post), diverging by 

the brook, a few paces beyond the church, hardly to be mistaken, 

ascends in 2^2 hrs. to the Pavilion de BelleTue (5947^) , a rustic 

inn on a saddle of Mont Lachat (see below), affording a superb 

^iew (best by evening-light) of the Chamonix Valley as far as the 

Col de Balme, the Mont Blanc range (summit hidden by D6me du 

Gdiiter), and the valley of the Arve. 

The other path (easier at first, but disagreeable after rain) diverges by 
p, cross 8 min. farther (,n, and ascends in 2 hrs. to the Ool de Yoia (.5496^ 
Inn closed ; simple refreshments in the chalet), a depression between Moni 
Lachat (6926') and the Prarion (p. 246), 20 min. to the W. of the Pavilion 
de Bellevue, with a f^ne view, but inferior to that from the Bellevue. 
We may descend either on the right bank of the stream by Bionnasaay to 
Contamines, or by a better and shorter route on the slopes to the left to 
the undermentioned bridge over the Bionnassay, where we join the route 
from the Pavilion de Bellevue, and thence adong the left bank. 

From the Pa\illon de Bellevue the path descends to the S.over 
pastures (the AiguilU dt Bionnassay, 13,360', rising on the left) 
and crosses the stream issuing from the Glacier de Bionnassay not 



to Courmayeur. NANT-BORRANT. 75. BouU, 261 

fai from the end of the glacier. Now a tolerable bridle-path, it 
descends on the left side of the valley to (IY4 hr.) Champel 
and turns to the left by the fountain. We now descend ra- 
pidly, enjoying a fine view of the wooded and well - cultivated 
Montjoie Valley, bounded on the W. by the slopes of Mont-Joli (see 
below), with the Mont BoaeUtte (8826') in the background, while 
to the £., above the green lower hills, peep several of the W. snow- 
peaks of the Mont Blanc group (^Aig. du Tricot, de Trelatite, etc.). 
At (18 min.) La ViUette the path leads to the right by the fountain, 
and then (6 min.) joins the carriage-road from St. Gervals (p. 246), 
which we follow to the left. The road soon crosses the brook de- 
scending from the Olaeier de Miage, To the right, on the slope of 
Mont Joli, stands the conspicuous church of St, Nicolas de Viroce. 
The road then leads high on the right bank of the Bon-Nant to La 
Chapelle and (1 hr.) — 

Les ContamineB-sur-St-Oervais (3927'; Union), a large village 
with a handsome church. 

The «Mont Joli (8290') is ascended from Bt. NicoUu (see above) without 
difficulty in 3 hrs. (guide 6 fr.; auberge */4 hr. from the top). Splendid 
view of Mont Blanc. — The Pavilion de TrelcUSte (see below) is more easily 
reached from Gontamines than from Nant-Borrant (path ascending to the 
left, 20 min. above Gontamines). From Gontamines by the Pavilion de 
Trelatlte to Nant-Borrant, 3 hrs.. interesting. — From Gontamines over 
the Col Joli to Beau/ort, see p. 242. 

Beyond Gontamines the road descends to the hamlet of Poniet, 
and overlooks the valley as far as the peaks of the Bonhomme. The 
valley contracts. At (3/4 hr.) the bridge which crosses to the pilgrim- 
age-chapel of Notre-Dame de la Gorge the road ends. 

The bridle-path now ascends to the left , passing a bridge and 
frequent traces of glacier-friction. Then through wood, and (40 min.) 
across the deep gorge of the Bon-Nant; 10 min. Chalet$ o/" Nant- 
Borrant (4780' ; Inn , R. 3 , D. 21/2-3 fr.). We cross the wooden 
bridge to the left , and traverse the pastures by a somewhat stony 
path. On the left the fall of the Glacier de Trelatite and the Col 
de Biranger are visible ; looking back , we survey the vaUey as far 

as the Aiguille de Yarens (p. 245). 

From Nant-Borrant, or better from Gontamines (see above), we may 
reach Hottets or the Gol de la Seigne in 7 hrs. by the Col du Xont 
Tondu, or Col du Olaeitr (9204') ; trying, but without danger (guide 30 fr.). 
From Nant-Borrant the path ascends to the left (fine waterfalls) to the 
(IVahr.) PavUlon de TrelcUSte (6483'; Inn, well spoken of), which overlooks 
the Trelatite Olaeier, and mounts the glacier towards the S.E. to the pass, 
to the left of Mt. Tondu (beautiful view, especially from a height on the 
left). We may either descend to the right to Moitett (p. 262), or to the left 
over shelving rocks and across the Olaeier dea Laneettes or dee Glaciers 
to the Gol de la Seigne (p. 263). — Over the Ool de Trelatite (11,424'), 
immediately S. of the Aiguille de Trelatdte, to the Olaeier de VAlUe 
Blanche and Combat Lake (p. 263), very difficult (2 guides, 60 fr. each). 

We next reach (1 hr.) the Chalet k la Balme (5627'), an unpre- 
tending inn, beautifully situated at the head of the Montjoie Yalley. 

In doubtful weather, or if evening is approaching, a guide should be 
taken from this pOint to the summit of the pass (3fr.); but, as guides 



d 



262 Route 75. COL DU BONHOMME. From Chamonix 

are not always to be bad here, it is safer to engage one at Contamines 
(to the Col da Bonhomme 6^, Col des Fours 6-8, Chapieox 8-10, Mottet 
10-12 fr., the higher fees being charged when the guide cannot return the 
same day). If the guide be taken to the Col du Bonhomme only, his at* 
tendance should be required as far as the highest point (Croix du 
Bonhomme, see below) of the pass, where one path aseends to the left to 
the Col des Fours and the other descends to Chapieux. Mule from Ifant- 
Borrant to the Croix du Bonhomme 5 fr. (bargain necessary). 

The path, indicated by stakes, ascends wild, stony slopes, passiiig 
a waterfall on the left, to the (20 min.) Plan Jovet (64370 with a 
few chalets. (To Mottets over the Col d'Enclayes, see p. 263.) Oa 
the (^2 l^'O Plon dts Damu (6543 Q lises a conical heap of stones, 
where a lady is said to have perished in a snow-storm. At the end 
of the valley (20 min.) the path ascends the slope to the right, and 
(^2 hr*) reaches the Col dn Bonhomme (8153'). On the opposite 
side of this saddle we look down into the desolate valley of the Oitte. 

A path, at first ill-defined, descends into this basin, passes the lonely 
Cfwlet de la Saucey turns to the left and crosses the brook, and leads 
to (2 hrs.) the chalets of La Gitte and to Beaufort (p. 242) in 3>/e hrs. 
more. This is a convenient route to the Tarentaise, but uninteresting. 
Guide to La Gitte adrisable. 

Two cnrions rocks, the Boehers du Bonhomme and de la Bonne- 
femme, here tower aloft, like two ruined castles. Beyond these we 
follow the rocky slope to the left (path indicated by stakes), enjoy- 
ing a fine view of the mountains of the Tarentaise (p. 242), and next 
reach (40 min.) the Croix dn Bonhomme (8153^), where the path 
divides. In a straight direction the path descends, partly over loose 
stones to (1^/4 hr.) — 

Les Chapieux or Chapiu (4950'; ^Soleil; B6U de$ Voyageurs; 
mule to the Col de la Seigne fr.), an Alpine hamlet in the Vol des 
GlaeierSj and 2 hrs. below Mottets (see below). 

Fbom Chapieux to PsA-St-Didibb over the LitUe 8i. Bernard (11 hrs. \ 
preferable to the Col de la Seigne in doubtful weather). The path to 
(3 hrs.) Bourg-St- Maurice (p. 265), at first very stony, but afterwards 
better, passes the chalets of Le Crey and BowMval^ commanding a beauti- 
ful view of the upper Isire Valley (Tarentaise), and at length unites with 
the high-road. From Bourg-8t- Maurice to Pri-St-Didier, see p. 265. 

The direct route to Mottets (2^2 h.n.') ascends from the Croix da 
Bonhomme to the left, indicated by posts and rarely free from snow 
(guide advisable in doubtful weather) to the (35 min.) Col dot Fonn 
(88920, to tJie left of which rises the PoinU des Fours (20 min.), 
a splendid point of view, marked by a stone pyramid. Then a steep 
arid rough descent over snow and dirty slate-detritus, and over 
pastures by a bad path, to (1^4 hr.) a group of chalets (6573') 
and the (20 min.) huts of L€« Qlaciers, where the path from Chapieux 
comes up from the right. We descend to the left, cross the bridge 
(5840'), and ascend the left bank to (25 min.) the two houses of — 

Mottets (6227'; H6tel de MoUets , dear; mule to the Col de la 
Seigne, 6 fr.), at the head of the Val des Glaciers. To the N. rises 
the Aiguille des Glaciers (12,580'), with its extensive glacier. 

Over the Col du Mont Tondu to Contamtn'eSf see p. 261. Another route 
^o Mottets (4 hrs. from Nant-Borrant; shorter, but trying) is from the Pfo» 



to Courmayeur, COL DE LA SEIGNE. 75. Route. 263 

Jovet (Bee above), past the small lake of that name, and over the Col 
d'Enelavei (8812'), between Mt. Tonda and the Tdte d'Enclaves. 

A bridle-path, well constructed at places, ascends hence in zig- 
zags to the (172^1.) *Col de laSeigiie(8240Q, where a cross marks 
the frontier between France and Italy. Magnificent view of the 
*All^e Blanehe» an Alpine valley several miles long, bounded on 
the N.W. by the tremendous precipices of the Mont Blanc chain. 

To the left of the pass rise the Aig. des Glaciert (12,580') and Aig. de 
Trelaiete (12,9(X}') ; then beyond the depression of the JUage Olaeier, the 
imposing snowy dome of Mont Blcme^ borne by the huge rocky but* 
tresses of Mont du Brouillard and Mi. Rouge; farther on towers the bold 
and isolated Aig. Bltmche de Peuteret^ ascended for the first time in 1885. 
Of the more distant peaks the Aig. du Oiant and the Oramdei Jorasses 
are conspicuous ; and beyond the Col de Ferret rise the peaks of the Great 
St. Bernard, beyond which appear the snowy Mi. Vel<m^ Grand Conibin, 
etc. In the valley lies the green Lac de Gombal. The retrospective view 
of the Tarentaise lifts, is also fine, but it cannot compete with the im- 
posing scene just described. 

Beyond the pass the path descends over snow and d^ris, keep- 
ing to the left, then across pastures , to the (V2 ^'0 upper Chalets 
de VAlUe Blanche (7232'; occnpied for a few weeks in the height of 
summer only), and the(i/2hr.) lower chalets (6970'), at the end of a 
level plateau. On the left are the Olaeier de VEateUette and the great 
Glacier de VAllie Blanche. We next round the hill to the right, 
cross the brook, and descend to a second level reach of the yalley 
(formerly the bed of a lake), at the end of which (3/4 hr.) lies the 
green Lac de Combal (GSGB'), bounded on the N. by the huge mo- 
raine of the Olaeier de Miage. Near a sluice at the lower end of 
the lake (lOmin.) we cross the Doire, which issues from the lake, 
and descend the side of the moraine through a wild ravine, filled 
with fragments of rock. (The Miage Glacier, at the head of which 
valuable lead and silver mines are now worked , is not visible.) 
After 3/4 hr. the Doire is again crossed. The valley, now called 
Val Veni^ expands. We pass (5 min.) the Cantine de VAvizaille 
(5421'), and enjoy a fine view down the valley. 

The well-trodden path descends through wood and pastures, 
passing (40 min.) a lead smelting-house (see above). On the left 
is the fine Olaeier de la Brenva, which once filled the whole 
Y&Uey, but has receded greatly within the last few decades. 
On leaving the wood (20 min.) we survey the old bed of the 
glacier for a long way up ; on the left is the Aiguille de Peu- 
teret with the snowy summit of Mont Blanc towering above it ; on 
the right the pavilion on the Mont Frtfty (p. 264). By the 
chapel of Notre-Dame de Querisony a few minutes farther, the 
path rounds an angle of rock, overlooking the village of JEH- 
trkves (p. 264) to the left , at the mouth of the Val Ferret , and 
then descends to the Doire , which unites here with the Doire du 
Val Ferret and takes the name of Dora Baltea. Opposite the little 
baths of La 8axe (*/2 hr.) , we cross the Dora , pass the (V4 hr.) 
Hotel du Montblancj and in 10 min. more reach — 



264 BouU75, GOURMAYEUR. 

Courmayaiir. — ^Anoblo, ^Hotxl Rotal, in both B., L., A A. 4, B. 

IVz, D. 5 fr. -, UirioN ; *Mont Blakc, Vs M. to the IS. of the Tillage. 2>t7t- 
getiee in summer (July lat-Sept. Ist) to Aosta in 5Vs hn.; 6, coup^ 9 fr. 
(at other Beasona from Pr^-St-Didier only). One-hone carriage to Aosta 18, 
two-horse 90 fr. (return vehicles 12 or 20 fr.). As at Chamonix, there is 
a society of guides here with similar regulations (see p. 247). L. and /. 
Proment, J. M. Lanier, Sir. Henry, J. Oadin, Al. Berthed, J, M. Br on, 
and Em. and J. M. Rey, are recommended. 

Coutmayeur (3963 Q, Ital. CormoifgioTt, a considerable village, 
with mineral springs, be&ntifnlly situated at the head of the Aosta 
Valley, is much frequented by Italians in summer. Though higher 
than Ghamonix, the climate is warmer and the vegetation far richer. 

The highest peak of Hont Blanc is concealed from Gourmaveur by 
the Mont ChHif ^685'), but is seen from the Pr^-St-Didier road, ^k M. to 
the S. — From the hamlet of DoMont, opposite Courmayeur at the base 
of Hont Ch^tif, we obtain an excellent survey of the enormous precipices 
of the JorcMtt and the glacier of that name. Pleasant walk thither, cross- 
ing the Dora Bridge (10 min.); then through the village, down to the 
Dora by a shady path at its N. end, and back by the left bank (Vs hr.). 
A bridle-path (guide unnecessary) leads from Dollone to the W. to the 
(2 hrs.) Col de Chdeouri (6397'), on the 8.W. side of the Mont Gh^tif (see 
above), commanding a fine view of Mont Blanc. We may return by the 
All^e Blanche, see p. 203. 

The *Kont de Saxe (7734'; 2Vr3 hrs. ; guide, 6 fr., unnecessary) affords 
a complete view of the S.E. side of Mont Blanc with its numerous glaciers, 
from the Col de la Seigne to the Col de Ferret, the Col du Gtfant and 
the Jorasses being close to us. A good bridle-path ascends from Cour- 
mayeur, by Le Villair Oe^ving La Saxe on the left), to the (2 hrs.) 
Chalete du Pri (6670') and the (1 hr.) nearer peak. The descent may be 
made by the ChaleU de Leuehi into the Val Ferret. 

'The *Cramont (9060'), commanding a grand view of Mont Blanc, ia 
more conveniently ascended from Prd St.-Didier (see p. 265). 

To Craxonix'oveb thb Col du G&ant (comp. p. 26o), 14 hrs. (guide 50, 
porter 30 fr. ; two guides, or a guide and a porter required). Interesting 
excursion to the (272 hrs.) Pavilion dn Fruitiar, or du Mont Blanc (7103'; 
dear, especially when provisions are brought from Courmayeur). on the 
Mont Frity; thence to the Col du Oiait (11,083'; refiige-hut), with most 
magnificent view, a steep ascent of 3V< hrs. (guide to the Pavilion 6 fr., 
unnecessary ; to the pass and back 12, in two days 15 fr.). — Ascent of 
Mont Blanc, see p. 2S2. 

Fbom Godbmatbub to Mabtignt ovbb thb Col Fbbbbt (14 hrs.), 
fatiguing, and on the whole unattractive (guide to the Chaleta de Ferret 
advisable, 15 fr.). From La Saxe (p. 263) we follow the left bank of 
the Dora to a point above the village of Entrhvee; we then (1 hr. frona 
Courmayeur) cross the Doire du Val Ferret, and ascend on its right bank. 
By the {V/t hr.) chalets of Praz-See (6836') we again cross the stream. (The 
path on the right bank is soon lost among the huge rocks of a mo- 
raine.) We now ascend the steep and narrow Yal Ferret, passing the 
poor huts of La Vaehey (5382'), Firachi (5664'), Gruetta (5782% and SaU 
Joan (6368'). (Paths diverging to the right to be avoided.) The last 
chalets are those of (2Vs hrs.) Pri de Bar (6756'; auberge), at the base 
of the glacier of that name, which descends from Mont Dolent (12,569'). 
The bridle-path ascends to the right in numerous windings to the 
(IVs hf.) Ool Ferret, or Col de la PeuUu (8328'), the frontier of Switaer- 
land and Italy, with a sujperb view of the Val Ferret and the 8. side of 
the Mont Blanc group with its huge glaciers (de Triolet, etc.), of the 
Jorasses, the Aiguille du G^ant, and the All^e Blanche as far as the 
Col de la Seigne. [Another pass, called the Pat du Qrapilion or Col du 
Petit Ferret (8178'), farther N., close to the foot of the precipices of Mont 
Dolent, is shorter, but more fatiguing and devoid of view.] We des- 
cend to the '(1 hr.) Chalets de la Penlaz (6843'), below which we cross 



PRfi ST. DIDIER. 76. Route, 265 

the Dranee and 0/2 hr.) . reach the Col de FenStre route. (From this 
point to the St. Bernard Hospice 4-4V2 hrs. ; cnmp. p. 279). The path 
then descends to the left to the O/s hr.) chalets of Ferret (5566*; cabaret), 
and through the N. (Swiss) Vol Ferret or Ferrex to (V2 hr.) La Folly 
&Wy-^ with the Glaeiei' de la Neuva above it, on the left). Then 
0/2 hr.) La Seilot (cabaret), (IV4 hr.) Prca de Fort (where we reach the 
road), Ville d'Issert, Som la Froz^ and (iV4 hr.) Orsiire$ (p. 276). 

76. From Gourmayeur to Aosta and Ivrea. The 

Oraian Alps. 

6'2V2 M. From Courmayeur to (21 H.) Aoeta^ an Omnibus plies thrice 
a day in summer in 4 hrs. (in the reverse direction 5 hrs.), starting at 
6 a.m., 1, and 6 p.m., returning from Aosta at 6 and 11 a.m., and 3.15 
p.m. ; one-horse carr. 18, two-horse 30 fr. From Aosta to (41 Vz M.) Ivrea^ 
Eailwat in 2V2 hrs. (fares 7 fr. 60, 5 fr. 30, 3 fr. 45 c). The railway, a 
fine example of engineering enterprise, traverses a highly picturesque district. 

Courmayeur, see p. 2^4. — The road to Aosta (8 hrs., walk- 
ing not recommended) winds down to the Doire and follows its 
left bank through a wooded ravine. (Walkers will prefer the old 
road , with fine views, on the hillside to the left, descending to 
the new road below Prtf St. Didier.) Passing (2^4 M.) PaUsieuXj 
we cross the Doire to (3/4 M.) Pr^ St. Didier (3280'; Hot, de VVni- 
vers) , a picturesquely situated village with baths, where the road 
to the ZdtUe 8t. Bernard diverges to the right. Near the hot springs 
(74 M. lower) the stream forces its way between perpendicular rocks 

towards the Dora valley. 

£xouB8iONS. (Guides: O. Vereellin^ O. and F. Brtmod^ 8im, and Ferd. 
Berthod, Jot. JBarmaz, and Victor Belfrond). The ascent of the *Tete de 
Gramont (9030^; 3^/2 hrs.) is interesting. Following the St. Bernhard road 
to the first tunnel (shorter footpath in 20 min.), we thence ascend to the 
right to the (i/s hr.) hamlet of Chauion (5970*), whence we reach the sum- 
mit in 2V2 hrs. more. Splendid view of Hont Blanc and the Graian Alps. 
Five xuin. below the top is the Pavilion Saueeure^ a refuge -hut of the 
I. A. C. Another route (bridle-path) diverges to the right from the St. 
Bernhard road at Elevae^ 3 H. from Pr^ St. Didier, joining the above route 
before the final ascent. Experts may dispense with a guide. 

To Boubg-St-Maubice ovbb the Little St. Bebnabd, 22 M., a route 
preferred by some to that over the Col de la Seigne (p. 263). The fine 
new road ascends the valley of the Thuile to (2 hrs.) La Thuile (4726'-, 
Hot. du Glacier du Buitor, poor and dear), where we have a view of the 
great glacier of the Ruitor^ which may be ascended hence (2 hrs. to the 
S. are the beautiful *Ruitor waterfalls, p. 274), to (IV4 hr.) Pont Serranty 
(608 30 » past the Cantine des Eaux-Rouges (Alpine fare), to the ('/« hr.) pass 
of the Little St. Bernard (7176'). The boundary between France and Italy 
fa on the S. side, about V4 hr. beyond the summit, and near a * Hospice 
affording good accommodation. [The M. Yalaisan (9453')^ 2 hrs. to the 
8.E., theM. Belvedhre id/&^% IV2 hr. to the N.E., and the La'icehranlette 
(963(7), 2 hrs. to the W., all afford admirable views of the Mont Blanc 
chain. J We now descend gradually, overlooking the beautiful upper valley 
of the Isere (La Tarentaise) and the Savoy Mts. the whole way, to St. Ger- 
main., Siezy and (9 M.) Bourg-St. Kaurice (2805'; H6t. dee Voyageurs)^ a 
amall town on the Is^re, whence a diligence runs twice daily in 41/2 hrs. 
to (16 M.) MoHtiers-en-Tarentaise (p. 242). 

From Bourg-St. Maurice to Chapieuz^ see p. 262. — To the E. of Bourg- 
St. Maixiice a road, practicable for driving the greater part of the way, 
ascends the wild upper part of the Isere Valley, by 8te. Foy, at the W. 
base of the Ormelune (10,772') and La Thuile (with the beautiful Mont 



266 Route 76. AOSTA. From Courmayeur 

Powrri^ 13,^80', on the right), to (6V2 hrs.) Tignet (5449 •, H6t. du Club 
Alpin^ H6t, dta Tourittet, hoth plain), at the confluence of the Isere and 
the Stutiirey which forms a pretty fall. To the "S.E. rises the Aig. de la 
0rand€-8€uaiirt (12,923^ diCacult). Thence over the Col di Rheme to the 
Val di Rhime^ see p. 21o\ over the Col de la Oalise to Ceresole, see p. 274 

Below Pi^ St. Didiei we again ciosb the Doiie (grand retro- 
spective view of Mont Blanc, which continnes visihle as 'far as 
Avise), follow the lofty slope for some distance, and then descend 
through vineyards into a broad and rich valley. To the S. appears 
the beautifnl pyramid of the Orivola (p. 271). On the hill to the 
left of (3 M.) Korgex (3017'; Angelo) is the picturesque rained 
ch&teau of Chalant] farther on is La SaUt with the ruins of a 
castle. Opposite (3 M.) ViUaret (Inn), on the right hank, is the 
pretty church of Derby ^ with a fine waterfall above it. The valley 
contracts. The road returns to the right bank by the (IV2 ^0 
Pont de VEquiline (3670') and leads through a wild and pictures- 
que deflle (Pierre TailUe) to Ruinaz (3580'; Croix, poor). Op- 
posite lies At7t«e, with a ruined castle and an ancient tower. Mont 
Blanc is now lost to view. The road traverses another rocky gorge, 
where the pyramidal Mt. Emilius comes in sight. Near the 
beautifully situated, but dirty village of (81/2 M.) Liverogne (2390'; 
H6t. du Col du Mont) we cross the deep gorge of the Qriaanche 
(p. 274). Behind us is the snowy Ruitor; to the left is the church 
of at. Nicolas (3922'), on a precipitous rock. Beyond (3/4 M.) 
Arvier we descend rapidly and cross the Savaranehe. (To the 
right, on the hill, are the chlteau and cburch of Jntrod^ p. 273.) 
Then (3 M.) YzUeneuve (2296'; Cerf, poor), beautifully situated, 
and commanded by the ruined castle of Argent on a lofty rock. 
(Hence to the Pont d'El, IV4 hr., see p. 270). 

We next ascend a little on the left bank of the Doire, passing 
a massive old tower. Beautiful retrospective *View of the three- 
peaked Ruitor, the Grivola with the Trajo Glacier, etc. Opposite 
St. Pierre (2168'), with its church and old castle on a rocky hill, 
opens the Val de Cogne on the S. (p. 270) ; on the right bank lies 
Aimavillej with iron-foundries and the ch&teau of Countess Rocca- 
Chalaud with its four towers. The road passes the handsome 
chliteau of LaSarre (21 54'), and traverses a broad shadeless valley 
to (71/4 M.) — 

24 M. Aosta. — ^Hotel du Montblanc, to the W. of the town, on 
the Courmayeur road, V2 M. from the post-office, B., L., & A. 2-3, B. IVsj 
D. 4-5 fr. i CoUBONNE, Place Charles Albert, next door to the ^st-office, 
Italian. Opposite the latter '^Restaur. Lanier, in the Hotel- de-Ville ; beer 
at Ztrntnermann't ^ near the Hdtel-de-Ville. — One-horse carriage to Cour- 
mayeur 18 or 30 fr. ; to St. R^my 15 or 25 fr. Omnibus to Courmayeur, 
see p. 264. 

Aosta (1913'; pop. 7760), the Augusta Praetor ia Salassorum 01 
the Romans, and now the capital of the Italian province of Aosta, 
is beautifully situated at the confluence of the Buthier and the Doire 
or Dora Baltta. The still existing antiquities testify to the im- 
portance of the place during the Roman period. The most interest- 



to Ivrecu AOSTA. 76. Route. 267 

ing of these are the Town Walls ^ flanked witli strong towers, a 
double Gateway somewhat like the Poita Nigra of Treves, a hand- 
some Tnumphal Arch, with ten Corinthian half-columns, the arch 
of a Bridge, and the ruins of a BasiUea, The walls are reached in a 
few minutes by one of the streets leading to the N. from the Place 
Charles Alhett, The other relics may be inspected in about V2 hour. 
We follow the principal street towards the E. from the Place, and 
soon reach the Roman Gate , and a few min. farther the Triumphal 
Arch. In a straight direction, 200 paces beyond the latter, the nar- 
row Rue du Pont Remain crosses a brook by means of a Roman 
Bridge , the massive construction of which is seen by descending 
a few paces to the left. The modern bridge across the Buthier affords 
a fine view of the Grand-Combin, Ruitor, etc. — The modem Cathe- 
dral possesses a singular portal, with frescos, and the Last Supper 
in terracotta, gaudily painted, liie church of St. Ours contains well- 
carved choir-stallB ; adjacent are cloisters with interesting early- 
Romanesque marble columns. The old Campanile affords a pleasing 
survey of the town and environs. Modem Edtel-de- Ville in the Place 
Charles Albert, or market-place (containing the office of the Alpine 
Club and interesting collections). Near the H6t. Montblanc is the 
Tour du Lepreux, brought into notice by Xav. de Malstre. Farther 
to the W. are the remains of a Roman Theatre. — Between the 
railway station and the town stands a bronze *8tatue of Victor 
Emmanuel //., by Tortone, in hunting dress, on a lofty rock pedestal. 
— The natives of the town are sadly afflicted with cretinism. 

ExcuBSiONS. The ^Becca di Nona (10,906'; 7 hrs. ; with guide. 18 fr. ; 
provisions necessary: tolerable night-quarters at the Gombo^ Alp, see 
below) is an admiraole point of view. The bridle-path, dusty at first, 
crosses the Doire and ascends somewhat rapidly to the village of Charvensod 
(2446*; guides Gr^goire and Grat. Jos. Come), traverses a wood, and passes 
the hermitage of St. Grat (5815') and the Gol Plan FetUtre (7298') to the 
Alpt Comboi, in a basin at the foot of the Becca di Nona and in 2Vs ^^• 
more to the summit. A few yards below the top is the Capanna Budden 
of the I. A. C. Superb ♦View (Panorama by Carrel), embracing the whole 
of the Mont Blanc and the Monte Rosa ehabis, and the Graian Alps to the 
S. [The Signal Sismonda (7698'), 20 min. above the Col Plan Fenetre, 
commands an excellent view of the Ruitor and the Pennine Alps.] — 
We may, for variety, in descending from the Becca, leave Combo^ to 
the left, and go straight through the valley of the Dard. Below the basin 
of Combo^ there is a fine waterfall, at the foot of which we cross the brook 
and then descend to the left to Charvensod. 

The Mont Emiliua (11,673'), J^ay be ascended by experts from the 
Combed Alp in 4 hrs. (with guide). We follow the Col d'Arbole route 
as far as the (1 hr.) ChaUts d^ArboU (p. 271), and then turn to the left, 
passing a small glacier-lake. View still more extensive than from the 
Becca di Kona. 

The Mont FalUre (10,043'), may be ascended from Aosta in 7 hrs., 
by a new bridle-path, via VilU tur Sarre. From the Capanna Regina 
Margherita of the I. A. C, at the top, splendid view of the entire Pennine 
and Graian chains. 

From Aosta to Zebmatt (p. 811) an attractive but fatiguing route 
leads through the Val Pellina, and over the Ool de Yalpelline (11,686'), in 
two days : to the chalets of Prarayi (p. 300) 9 hrs. ; thence a difficult 
ascent over the OlacUr de Za-de-Zan to the pass, to the S. of the Tite 



268 Boute 76, CHATILLON. From Courmayeur 

Blanche (12,80(X), and down the Stock, and Zmutt glaciers to (10-12 hrs.) 
Ztrmatt (comp. p. 311). — From Bionaz (p. 800), 3 hrs. above Valpelline 
and 5 hrs. from Aosta, the Bee de Lnseney (t2.,44(/), which commands a 
grand view, may be ascended in 7 hrs. (difAcult, for experts only). — 
Several passes lead from the Valpellina to the Val 8t. BarihHems (see 
below): from Oyace (p. 300) or Bionaz over the Col de VeMona (about 
SSSO*), easy and attractive ; from Bionaz over the Col de Montagnaia (9643'), 
easy; from Praray^ over the Col de Livonea (dGiSOi laborious. 

*From Aosta to Cogne, see p. 270; over the Thiodule Pass to Zermatt, 
B. 83; over the Col de Collon to Evolena, p. 300; over the Col de FenStre 
to the Val de Bagnes, p. 282; over the Great St. Bernard to Martigny, B. 77. 

Leaving Aosta the Railway crosses tlie Buihier and the Bagntrt, 
and approaches the I>ora, the coarse of which Is here interrupted 
by numerous islands. As we look back we enjoy a splendid Ylew 
of the valley of Aosta, surrounded by lofty mountains : to the S. 
rise the Becca dl Nona and Mt. Emllius, to the N. the Grand 
Combin and Mt. Yelan, and to the W. the Ruitor (see p. 274). 
Shortly before reaching the station of (5 M.) Quart-VilUffancht 
(17550 ^e ^66 ^^e chateau of Qwirl (2486') on a hlU to the left. 
The train now crosses the Dora, but beyond (7 M.) 8L Marcel, at 
the mouth of the valley of the same name (p. 272), it returns to 
the left bank. On the slope above St. Marcel is the pllgrlm-resort 
of Plou, Near (8 M.) Nus, with its ruined castle, the Val SL- 
Barihilemy y from which yarious passes lead to the Yalpellina 
(see above), opens on the N. The line once more crosses and re- 
crosses the Dora. To the right appears the picturesque chliteau of 
FinU, near the mouth of the Clavaliti or Finis Valley, from which 
towers the slender snowy pyramid of the Tersiva (p. 271). We 
now intersect near DUmos a large deposit of debris by a viaduct 
100 yds. long, and traverse a tunnel to (121/2 M.) Chanibave 
(1623')) noted for its wine, where we command for the last time 
a retrospect as far as the Ruitor. 

The valley now contracts ; the railway runs between the river 
and the cliffs, traversing two tunnels and a deep cutting through 
a deposit of debris, and crosses the Matmoire, descending from 
the Valtournanche. 15^2 M. Ch&tillon (1738'; *H6t. de Londres, 
R., L., «fe A. 3 fr.; H6t. de I'Ange), the district capital, with 2992 
inhab., and a castle of the ancient counts of Ghallant, is beautifully 
situated, 1^4 M. above the railway, at the mouth of the Valtour- 
nanche. The deep wooded gorge of the Matmoire, which is pic- 
turesquely studded with houses, is spanned in the centre of the 
village by an imposing single-arched bridge. — To Valtournanche 
and over the Theodule Pass to Zermatt, see pp. 310, 311. 

From Chatillon the railway continues along the left bank of the 
Dora. On the steep hill to the right is the old ch&teau of Ussel, 
also once belonging to the Ghallant family. Beyond two short 
tunnels Is (16^2 ^0 ^^' Vincent, the station for the village of the 
same name (Lion d'Or ; Ecu de France) , situated ^4 M. to the 
left, at the foot of the pyramidal Mt Zerbion (89249, and con- 



to Ivrea. ^£RR:&S. 76, Route, 269 

tainiDg a mineral spring with l)Ath8. We next enter tbe *Mcnt 
Jovet Defile^ the most striking part of the entire journey ; a series 
of tunnels, separated hy massive retaining and sheltering walls, 
follow each other in the narrow rocky gorge, while far helow the 
foaming Dora descends in cascades. The exit of the pass is com- 
manded by the ruined castle of Mcnt Jovet or 8U Germain high up 
on the left. An imposing yiaduct here spans the Dora. Beyond 
(20 M.) the station of Mont Jovet, the Talley again expands. Ex- 
tensiye yineyards begin to appear; on the right rise lofty cliffs. 
Farther on we see on the slopes the yillage of Champ de Praz, at 
the mouth of the Val Chalame, watered by a stream, which in 
times of flood has scattered stones far and wide oyer the yalley 
of the Dora. The train crosses the Dora and the Evangon and 
reaches — 

231/2 M. Verris (1280'). The yillage of that name (1100 inhab. ; 
Ecu de France or Post; Couronne\ with an ancient chateau of the 
counts of Ghallant, is picturesquely situated on a rocky eminence, 
at the mouth of the Val de ChaUarU (p. 324). Issogne, on the op- 
posite bank of the Dora, has also a chateau of tbe same family. 
To the N.E., between the valleys of Ghallant and Gressoney, ap- 
pear the rocky peaks of the Mt. Voghel (^Becea Torch, 10,266'). 

251/2 ^* Arnaz, with a ruined castle. The line traverses an 
extensive alluvial deposit, and at Campagnola crosses to the right 
bank of the Dora. 2B M. HSne-Bard, in a superb situation. To 
the right the Val Champorcher or Camporciero, with its picturesque 
rocky summits (by the Col de Cogne to Cogne, see p. 272); to 
the N.W., in the background of the Dora valley, the Bee de Luseney 
(p. 268). On a steep crag on the left bank of the Dora rises *rort 
Bard (1282'), captured in 1052 after a long siege by Duke Amadeus 
of Savoy, and in 1800 , before the battle of Marengo , gallantly 
defended by 400 Austrians against the French army. Beyond this 
point Italian only is spoken by the natives. 

The railway crosses the river and passes under the fortress by 
means of a tunnel, 650 yds. long. Then through a narrow rocky 
ravine to ( 29Y2 M.) JDonnas (Posta), prettily situated, and over the 
wild Lye torrent in a broad valley surrounded by imposing moun- 
tains to (31 M.) Font St. tfartin, the station for the village of the 
same name (1005' ; Rosaf Cavallo Bianco'), in a highly picturesque 
situation, at the month of the deep and narrow valley of the Lya 
or Qreasoney (p. 323), with a ruined castle, foundries, and an 
ancient Roman bridge across ^he Lys. 

The railway again crosses and reerosses the Dora, which here 
forms a large island. On the slope to the left is the handsome 
village of Carema, surrounded by vineyards and fruit-gardens. On 
the right bank is (33 M.) Quincinetto, at the foot of the Becco 
deUe Steje (9184'); on the left bank is the ruin of Ceanola, beyond 
which rises the Becca Torch (see above). 35 M. Tavagruiaco', the 



270 Route 76. IVREA. The Oraian 

village lies to the ri^ht. Opposite at the foot of the Colma di 
Monbaron (7773') is the l&rger Tillage of SeUimo VHtone. The 
lower terraces of the picturesque and highly cultiyated valley are 
covered with vines, higher up are woods of walnut and chestnut 
trees, ahove which again rise bare rocky peaks. We cross the 
Dora again at MontestrtUto , pass (on the left) Terrassa and S. 
Germano^ with ruined castles, and reach (3772 ^0 Bosgofraiioo 
(924'), with a recently discovered arsenical spring, prettily situated 
1 M. from the station. 

The mountains now recede and the valley again expaads. 
39 M. Montalto Dora^ with a striking and well-preserved ruined 
castle. The train now enters a tunnel (1^4 M. long) under the 
hill of Ivrea, crosses the Dora, and stops at (41 Ys M.) Ivrea (768'; 
Scudo di Franeia; Europa; Vniverso; Italia), a town with 10,413 
inhab., picturesquely situated on the left bank of the Dora, with 
an ancient castle, several lofty round towers, and numerous churches. 
Comp. Baedeker^ 8 Northern Italy. 

From Ivrea to Turin^ railway in 2 hrs., see Baedeker''* Northern Italy. 
Travellers bound for Milan may conveniently make nse of the steam 
tramway to 8anthi& (18V« M. in 2 hrs.; 2nd cl. fare IVs fr.). This 
picturesque, though somewhat dusty route leads vi& Bollengo^ with its 
large chateau, and past the Lake of Viverone, embosomed in woods. 

The Oraian Alps. 

The Graian Alps, an extensive mountain-system culminating in the 
Or an Paradiso (iS^) and the Orivola (13,018'), lie between the valleys 
of the Dora Baltea and the Isire on the ^., and those of the Dora Ry>aria 
and the Arc on the S. We here describe a few of the most interesting routes 
through the E. part of this grand mountain-region, which presents so striking 
an appearance when approached from the Pennine Alps. These routes, which 
are easily accomplished from Aosta, lead us into the Val de Coffne and the 
Val Savaranehe, Val di Rhime, and Val Orisanehe^ which run parallel 
with the Val de Cogne on the W. Except at Ck)gne, where there are 
two rustic inns, the traveller in this almost untrodden region must gener- 
ally be content with humble quarters at the houses of the cur^s. 

The mountains of Cogne form a favourite chaese of King Humbert, as 
they did of his father Victor Emmanuel (p. 267), and the mountain-goat 
CSteinbock'' , Ital. ^stambecco") , elsewhere nearly extinct, is still found 
here. Several excellent bridle-paths, leading to the royal shooting-lodges, 
are a great assistance a the pedestrian. 

Froh Aosta- to Ooonb (6^2 hrs.). As far as (6 M.) Aimaville 
(2118') we may follow the high-road (p. 266), but it is preferable 
to cross the Doire near Aosta, and to go by Oressan and Joven^n, 
across meadows and well-cnltivated fields. The bridle-path then 
ascends rapidly past the church of St, Martin to La Poia (2790'), 
and enters the Val de Cogne at a great height above the ravine of 
the brawling Grand' Eyvie. Far below we soon observe the houses 
of Pont d*El (2863'), with its admirably preserved ♦Roman Bridge 
formerly an aqueduct) , 60 yds. long , and 394' above the stream. 
It was erected in the reign of Augustus. The valley contracts. 
Near the bridge by which we cross the stream , we obtain a view of 
the Grivola for a short time. We next reach (I1/2 hr.) Vieyea 



Alps, . COGNE. 76. Route. 271 

(3730'; cantine), at the mouth of the Combe de Nomenon (pretty 
waterfall) , with the Grivola and the Gran Nomenon in the back- 
ground. ICoUe de Meaoneles, see p. 273) Beyond (74 hr.) Sil- 
venoire (on the right), and a deserted iron-fonndry, we again cross 
the brook by the Pont de Laved (4480'), where the mountains of 
Gogne are revealed. Then (1V2 hr.) B^inel (47620, opposite the 
lofty Punta del Pousset (see below), with the Trajo Olacier on the 
right. At (Y2 ^^■•) Critaz the Valnontey descends from the S. to 
the Grand' Eyvie; (20 min.) Cogne (see below). 

Fbom Aosta to Coome ovsb the Pasbo d'Abbole, a fine though 
fatiguing route (9 hn., with guide). Ascent to 0^/2 hrs.) St. Ortsl^ see 
p. 267. Thence past the ChamoU Alp and over the ridge (8646*) to the (3 
hrs.) Chalets d*Arbole (8186'; path from Comboi^ in 1 hr., see p. 267), near 
a small lake, and then a fatiguing ascent across debris to the (1 hr.) 
Paaso d'Arbole (930S'); admirable view of the Grand Paradis, Grivola, etc. 
Steep descent over rocks, debris and grassy slopes to the Chcuett eTArpisson 
(7630'), and through pine-wood to the chalets of C?Mvanit, where the path 
divides : to the right to EpvMl ; to the left to Crita* (sea above). 

Cogne (5030' ; H6t. Orivola and H6t, Royal, rustic), charmingly 
situated with a beautiful view of the Gran Paradise and the Grand 
St. Pierre , with their glaciers (Glacier de la Tribulation , del 
Grand Orou, du Money, etc.) to the S., and of Mont Blanc to the 
N.W., is an excellent starting-point for excursions. Three valleys 
converge here; the VaUone di Valnontey from the S., the VaUone 
d'Urtier from thO'E., and the VaUone di Orauson, from the N. 

Ascents astd Passes. (Guides, Elysie and Joseph Jeaniet, L. Oui- 
ehardaz.) *Funta del Ponuet (10,746'; 5 hrs.; guide 6, mule i2 fr.), a 
superb point of view. At Critaz (see above) the bridle-path crosses the 
Valnontey and enters a wood, and then ascends grassy slopes to the cha- 
lets of Ors-Dessus and (3 hrs.) Pausset-Desstts (8387'). Thence a steep 
climb of iVzhr., passing a very giddy place near the top, brings us to the 
rocky crest of the Punta del Poueset. Close to us, above the Orivola 
Otaeier, towers the Grivola, which is hardly inferior in boldness to the 
Matterhom, and other mountains of the Pennine and Graian Alps are 
also visible. — Orivola (13,018'; from Cogne 9hrs. ; two guides at 28 fr. 
each), toilsome, and requiring experience. From the Chalets del Pousset 
Snperiori (see above ; where the night should be spent) we reach the Orivola 
Glacier (10,515') in 2 hrs. , cross it (1 1/2 hr.) , and ascend the S.E. side of 
the Grivola, at first over steep slopes of ice , and then rock. (Beware of 
falling atones.) In 2V2-3 hrs. more we reath the top , which commands a 
magnificent panorama. — Ascent from Val Savaranche much more difficult. 

The Punta di Tersiva (11,522'; 7 hrs., with guide) presents no difficulty 
to adepts. We proceed through the VaUone di Orauson to the (2^/2 hrs.) 
chalets of Oraitson (7449^) and to (*/4 hr.) ErvillHre; thence, passing the 
little Lac Dorikres^ to the (1 hr.) Pcisso d''Invergneux (9187') and by the 
W. ridge to the (2V2 hrs.) summit. Magnificent view of the Graian and 
Pennine Alps and of the plain of Piedmont (Turin), etc. This ascent may 
be also made from the S. from the Val d'Urtier via the PonUm Alp^ or 
from the }7. (more difficult) from the Val di ClavaliU (p. 268). 

In the Vallone de Valnontey, opening to the S. of Cogne, lie the (3 hrs.) 
chalets of Le Money ^ which afford an admirable view of the Oran Paradiso 
with its glaciers (ascent, see p. 273). Two difficult glacier-passes, the Oolle 
Grand Crou or Col Tuckeit (11,135'), between the Oran Paradiso and Beeca 
di Gay and the CoUe Koney (11,243'), between the Rossa Viva and Grand 
St. Pierre, lead from the head of the Valone de Valnontey to Ceresole 
(p. 274; guide (15 fr.). 

F&ox GoONE TO Babd over the Col db Coonb, 1142 hrs., attractive 



272 RouU 76. YAL aAYARANCHE. The Oraian 

and not difficult. A bridle>path (royal hanting-i»ath) crossea the Urtier at 
0/2 hr.) Chatnplong (SIPS') , and ascends the valley of the stream with its 
abundant flowers and waterfalls, commanding fine views of the Grivola to 
the W., and to the 6. of the Combe de VaMlle (see below). We next pass 
the chapel of Cret to the (2 hrs.) chalets of Pi<m^g, whence we may either 
follow the lower path to the right by Bruloi and PeyrcuiH^ or that to the 
left along the slope of the Tertiva (p. 271), by Ponton with its little 
lake and along the Tour de Ponton, to the (2 hrs.) Ool de Oogne {Feneire 
de Cogne or Finestra Champorcher, 9285'), between the Tour de Ponton and 
the Becco Costcusa. We descend into the pastoral Val Champorcher or 
Camporciero, oassing the chalets of Dondenna to (31/2 hrs.) Champoreher 
(4647 ' : rustic Inn) , and 'thence by Pont-Botei to (21/2 hrs.) H6ne-Bard 
(p. 269). 

F&ox Goons to St. Maecsl over the Col de St. Xarcex., 8 hrs., not 
difficult, and practicable for mules. The route leads through the Vallone 
di Oraueon to the (2V2 hrs.) chalets of Gravton (p. 271), and thence past 
the little Corona* Lake to the (2 hrs.) Ool de St. marcel (Colle di Coronas. 
9535'), a saddle of the Cretickdel Tesecnet. We descend through the wooded 
Vallone di St. Marcel to OVs brs.) St. Marcel (p. 269>: 

From Co one to Aosta over the Col d^Arhole, see p. 271. Farther to 
the E., between the Pvnta Sarin and the Pvnta di Lor a., is the difficult Passo 
di Garin (10,476'). — To Aiuavills over the Colle de Chaz-Siche (9249^ or the 
Colle del Brine (8734'), 7-8 hrs., both attractive and without difficulty. 

From Cogne to the Yal Soana across the Col della Nouva, 
7-8 hrs., attractive and repaying. To Pianos , see above. Here we tarn 
to the right and ascend past the chalets of Chavani* and Brulot to the 
foot of the glacier. Trending to the left to avoid the glacier, we readi 
(3 hrs.) the (Tol della Nouva (Colle d^Jrietta ; ^dSXY), and enjoy an admirable 
vievsr of Mont Blanc and the 6. side of the Oraian Alps. Steep descent to 
the chalets of Arietta, and through the Val CampigUa to (3 hrs.) Cam- 
piglia, (Va hr.) Valprato, and (V2 hr.) I^neo (Inn, clean), in the Val Socna, 
2V2 hrs. above Ponte (p. 275). — Two other passes to the Val Soana lead 
respectively across the Colle Bardoney (92920, between the PurUa Lavina 
and the Punia Rol (fatiguing), and across the Bocchetta di Rancio (9856') to 
the N. of the Lavina (difticult). 

To the Val Log ana (p. 275) over the Colle Grand Crou or the Colle 
Monty, see p. 271. Two other difficult passes lead from the Vallone di 
Valeille, the lateral valley parallel to the Vallone dTrtier, on the S. (see 
above) to the Val Pianionetto and the Val Locana: the Oolle di Telleccio 
(10,910') between the Grand St. Pierre (12,109'; the difficult ascent of 
which may be made from the pass) and the Ondezzana; and the Oolle 
Bengie (10,515'), between the Ondezzana and the Punta Sengie. 

From Cogne to Val Savabanche oyer the Colle db Lauzon 
(8-9 hrs. ; guide 10 fr.), eaty and attractive. From (1/2 lirO ^a^- 
nontty (5503') the bridle-path ascends to the right, throngh wood, 
passing a pretty fall of the Lauzon, to the (21/2 hrs.) royal shooting- 
lodge (84910 and the (2 hrs.) Colle di Lanion (10,804'), with an 
admirable view (still more extensive from a height a few minutes { 

to the S.). We now descend , enjoying superb views of the Gran 
Paradise (1.) and Grivola (r.), to (II/2 hr.) the Chalets de Leviona 
(7753'). (Good walkers may cross the brook here near the small 
waterfall, and descend by a steep path direct to Val.Savaranche.) 
The bridle-path follows the left bank and reaches the bottom of the 
Val Savaranche near the hamlet of Tignet, 1 M. to the S. of Val 
Savaranche, or Degioz (5054' ; Inn), the chief village In the Val \ 
Savaranche (Guides, G. Blanc and G. Dayntf). 

Two other somewhat fatiguing passes from Cogne to Val Savaranche 



I 



Alps, VAL QBISANOHE. 76. BouU, 273 

are ihe Ool da rEerbetet (10,8800^ farther 8., between the Mont ffer- 
betei (p. 374) and the Oran Serre, and the OoUe da Xeaonclea (10,168'), 
to the K.W., between the Orivola and the Oran Nomenon (11,440^. — From 
Val f^aTaranche to Geretole^ see p. 274. 

The Gran Paradiao (18,320'; difficult, for adenta only, gnide 80 fr.) 
may be ascended in 7«8 hrs. from (2V4 hrs.) Pont (6882'; small Inn, with 
2 S.), the highest hamlet in the Val Savaranche. About V« hr. to the 8. 
of Pont we ascend to the left to (4 hrs.) the Bifngio Yittorio Enumueh 11. 
(98480, built by the I. A. C, above the Moncorvi Alp^ and thence cross the 
OiacUr de MoncorvS to the (4 hrs.) summit. The ascent may also be made 
from the N. over the Olader de Montandat^ne; or from Cogne by the mudi 
more difficult route across the Glacier de la TribuUxtion. 

Fkom Yal Sayarakchb to Rhi^ms Notbe-Damb over the Col 
d^ Entrelor (^hia.'y guide 6 fr.). The bridle -path ascends from 
Val Sayaranche by (1 M.) Creton , at first som