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p
-I
I
I
SWITZERLAND.
MONEY TABLE.
(Oomp. p. xvii.)
Approximate Equivalents.
American
]
Bnglish
Swiss
German
Austrian
Money
Honey
Money
Money
Money
Doll.
Cts.
L.
8.
D.
1^-.
Cent.
Jl.
PA
Fl.
Kr.
—
1
—
.^_
Hs
^^
6
^_
4
^_
2
—
21(2
—
—
1>«
—
121|2
—
10
5
—
5
—
-^
21s
25
—
20
-^
10
—
10
— _
6
___
60
_-
40
_
20
2S'I«
—
—
61 4
—
62if2
—
60
—
26
20
—
9»4
1
—
—
80
—
40
25
—
1
1
25
1
^—
_
50
60
^—
2
2
60
2
—
1
—
—
76
— —
3
— ^
3
76
3
—
1
60
1
.^
—
4
^.^
5
_
4
—
2
—
1
26
—.
5
6
25
6
_
2
50
1
60
6
7
60
6
3
—
1
75
7
^_
8
76
7
—
3
50
2
—
__
8
^_
10
8
—
4
2
26
-^
9
^.M
11
26
9
—
4
50
2
60
__
10
12
60
10
6
— —
3
-^
_—
12
_^
15
— ^
12
—
6
—
4
—
__
16
^^
20
...»
16
8
— .
5
—
1
—
..•
26
__
20
.^_
10
25
5
^^
125
__
100
60
—
126
^■"~
26
— ^
626
600
"■"
260
^^™
SWITZERLAND,
AND THB ADJAOBNT FOSTIONB OF
ITALY, SAVOY, AND THE TYROL.
HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS
BY
K. BAEDEKEE.
^^ -N./"'.,
With 36 Haps, 10 Plans, and 11 Panobamas.
TWELFTH EDITION.
LEIPSIC: KARL BAEDEKER.
1887.
All Ri^g^s. Reserved.
*Oo, little book, God send thee good passage,
And si)eciaUy let this be thy prayere
Unto them all that thee will read or hear,
Where thoa art wrong, after their help to call,
Thee to correct in any part or all/
Ghaucbr.
1
1 1 K . »
Add to Ifib*'.
GIFT
PREFACE. \^^7
ARCH.
m, UBMV
llie object of the Handbook for Switzerland is to
supply the trayeller with all needful information, to point
oat the most interesting places and the best way of reach-
ing them , to render him comparatively independent of
the services of guides and others, and thus to enable him
thoroughly to enjoy his tour in this magnificent country.
With improved facilities for travel, the number of visi-
tors to Switzerland has greatly increased of late years,
and mountaineering ambition has been proportionally
stimulated.. Summits once deemed well-nigh inaccessible
are now scaled annually by travellers from all parts of the
world. The achievements of the modern Alpine clubs have
dimmed the memory of De Saussure, Auldjo, and the other
pioneers of these icy regions, and even ladies now fre-
quently vie with the stronger sex in their deeds of daring.
The Handbook is based on the Editor's personal ac-
qaaintance with the places described , most of which he
has carefully and repeatedly explored. This edition,
which corresponds with the twentieth German edition, has
been thoroughly revised, and famished with the latest in-
formation obtainable. Its contents are divided into Seven
Sections (I. N. Switzerland; H. Lake of Lucerne and
Environs, and St. Gotthard ; HI. Bernese Oberland ; IV.
W. Switzerland, Lake of Geneva, ^ower Rhone Valley;
V. Savoy, the Valais, and the adjacent Italian Alps;
VI. S.E. Switzerland, Grisons; VH. Lakes of N. Italy),
each of which may be separately removed from the book
by the mountaineer or pedestrian who desires to minimise
the bulk of his luggage. To each section is prefixed a
list of the routes it contains, so that each forms an ap-
proximately complete volume apart from the general table
of contents or the general index.
The Editor will highly appreciate any corrections or
suggestions with which- traveUers may favour him. The in-
Yi PREFACE.
formation already received from numerous correspondents,
which he gratefdlly acknowledges, has in many instances
proved most serviceable.
The Maps and Plaks, on which special care has been
bestowed, are based on the Topographical Adas of Switzer-
land and on Dufours Map (p. xxiii) , and revised with the
aid of other recent authorities. To the present edition are
added a new map of the Mont Blanc district , and new
panoramas of the Pilatus and the Niesen.
Time Tables. The best Swiss publications are the
^Kurshucher (time-tables) of Krusi of B&le and BurJdi of
Ztlrich (50 c. each), sold at most of the railway-stations.
Heights are given in English feet (1 Engl. ft. ==
0.3048 m^tre; 1 mfetre =3.281 Engl, ft., or about 3 ft.
3Y3 in.). — Distances on high-roads and railways are
given in English miles ; while those on bridle-paths and
mountain-routes are expressed by the time which they
usually take. The iiumber of miles at the beginning of a
paragraph denotes the distance from the starting-point,
while the distances from place to place are generally
stated within brackets ; but on railway-routes the mileage
is always reckoned from the starting-point.
Hotels. Besides the first-class hotels, the Handbook
mentions a number of the more modest inns also. The
usual charges are stated in accordance with the Editor's
own experience, or from the bills furnished to him by
travellers. Hotel-charges, like carriage-fares and fees to
guides, generally have an upward tendency, but an ap-
proximate statement of these items will enable the trav-
eller to form an estimate of his probable expenditure.
To hotel-keepers, tradesmen, and others the Editor
begs to intimate that a character for fair dealing towards
travellers forms the sole passport to his commendation,
and that advertisements of every kind are strictly exclud-
ed from his Handbooks.
CONTENTS.
Page
I. Plan of Tour, etc xii
II. Travelling Expenses. Money xvli
in. Hotels and Pensions xvii
rv. Passports. Custom House xix
V. Walking Tours xix
VI. Maps xxi
Vn. Guides xxii
VHI. Carriages and Horses xxili
IX. Diligences, Post Office, Telegraph xxiii
X. Railways xxv
XI. History. Statistics xxvi
^^1^ I. Hortliem Switzerland.
1. Bale 2
2. From B^le to Bienne and Bern through the Mfinsterthal 8
3. From Bale to Bienne by Olten and Soleure 11
4. From Bale to Bern by Herzogenbuchsee 15
5. From B&le to Zurich 16
6. From Bale to Lucerne 19
7. From Olten to Waldshut by Aarau and Brugg 20
8. From Bftle to Schaifhausen and Constance 21
9. The Falls of the Rhine 24
10. From Friedrichshafen to Constance. Lake of Constance . 26
11. From Rorschach to Constance and Winterthur (Zurich) . 29
12. From Schaffhausen to ZUrich 30
13. Zurich and the XJetliberg 31
14. From Zurich to Coire. Lakes of Zurich and Walenstedt 37
15. From Zurich to Romanshorn and Friedrichshafen ... 44
16. From Zurich to St. Gallon, Rorschach, and Lindau ... 46
17. The Canton of Appenzell 50
18. From "Wyl through the Toggenburg to Buchs in the Valley
of the Rhine 56
19. From Z&rich to Glarus and Linththal 58
20. From Stachelberg to Altdorf. Klausen 62
21. From Schwyz to Glarus oyer the Pragel 63
22. From Glarus to Coire through the Semfthal 65
vlii CONTENTS.
Route Page
n. Lake of Lnceme and EnvironB. The St. Ootthard.
23. From Zurich to Zug and Lucerne . . .' 68
24. Lucerne 70
25. Lake of Lucerne 74
26. The Rigi 81
27: PilatUB 88
28. From Zug and Lucerne to Arth 90
29. From Wadenswyl to Einsiedeln, Schwyz, and Brunnen . 92
30. From Lucerne to Bellinzona. St. Gotthard Railway . . 96
31. From Goschenen to Airolo over the St. Gotthard . . . 104
32. The Maderaner Thai 108
33. From Goschenen to the Rhone Glacier. The Furka . . 110
34. FromLucerne to Altorfby StansandEngelberg. Surenen 112
35. From Lucerne over the Briinlg to Brienz (and Meiringen) 116
36. From Meiringen to Engelberg. Joch Pass 119
37. From Meiringen to Wasen. Susten Pass 121
38. From Lucerne to Bern. Entlehuch. Emmenthal .... 123
39. From Lucerne to Lenzburg (and Aarau) by Hochdorf.
Seethal Railway 125
ni. The Bernese Oberland.
40. Bern 129
41. From Bern to Thun 135
42. The Niesen 137
43. From Thun to Interlaken. Lake of Thun 138
44. Interlaken and its Environs 141
45. From Interlaken to Lauterbrunnen. Staubbach .... 147
'46. Upper Valley of Lauterbrunnen. Miirren. Schmadribach 148
47. From Interlaken to Grindelwald. Wengernalp 153
48. TheFaulhorn 158
49. From Grindelwald to Meiringen. Baths of Rosenlaui.
Falls of the Reichenbach 160
50. From Meiringen to Interlaken. Lake of Brienz .... 163
51. TheGiessbach 165
52. From Meiringen to the Rhone Glacier. Grimsel .... 166
53. From (Thun) Spiez to Leuk over the Gemmi 170
54. From Gampel to Kandersteg. Lotschen Pass 176
55. From Thun to Sion over the Rawyl 179
56. From Thun to Saanen through the Simmenthal .... 180
lY. Western Switzerland. Lake of Oeneva. Lower Bhone Valley.
57. From Bern to Neuchatel 184
58. From Neuchfltel to Ghauxdefonds and Locle 187
59. From Neuchatel to Pontarlier by the Val de Travers . . 188
60. From Neuchatel to Lausanne 190
61. From Bern to Lausanne (Vevey) 192
CONTENTS. Ix
Route Pi^e
62. From Lausanne to Payeme and Lyss 196
63. From Lausanne to Pontailiei by YalloTbe 197
64. Geneya and Environs 198
65. From Geneva to Martigny by Lausanne and VlUeneuve.
Lake of Geneva (Northern Bank) !i08
66. From Saanen to Aigle over the Col de Pillon 224
67. From BuUe to Chateau d'Oex and Aigle * 226
68. From Bex to Sion. Col de CheviUe 229
69. From Geneva to St. Maurice by Bouveret. Lake of Geneva
(Southern Bank) 231
Y. Savoy, the Valais, and the adjaeent Italian Alf i.
70. From Geneva to Chamb^ry by Culoz and Aix-le8>Bains,
returning by Annecy 238
71. From Geneva to Chamonix 244
72. Chamonix and Environs 247
73. From Chamonix to Mart^y over the Tete-Noire , or to
Yemayaz by Triquent and Salvan 255
74. From Martigny to Chamonix. Col de Balme 258
75. From Chamonix to Courmayeur over the Col duBonhomme
and the Col de la Seigne. Tour du Mont Blanc .... 260
76. From Courmayeur to Aosta and Ivrea. The Graian Alps 265
77. From Martigny to Aosta over the Great St. Bernard . . . 275
78. From Martigny to Aosta over the Col de Fenetre. Val de
Bagnes 280
79. From Martigny to Intra on the Lago Maggiore over the
Simplon " 282
80. From the Rhone Glacier to Brieg. Egglshorn 291
81. From Ulrichen to Domo d'Ossola. Gries Pass. Fall of the
Tosa. Val Formazza 295
82. The S. VaUeys of the Valais between Sion and Turtman
(Val d'H^rens, Val d'Anniviers, and Turtman VaUey) . . 297
83. From Visp to Zermatt, and over the Th^odule Pass to
Chttillon 307
84. Zermatt and Environs 311
85. From Vogogna to Macugnaga, and over the Monte Moxo
to Saas and Visp 316
86. From Macugnaga round Monte Rosa to Zermatt .... 322
VI. 6.E. Switserland. The Chrisons.
87. From Rorschach to Coire 327
88. Ragatz and Pfafers . 329
89. Coire 333
do. From Landquart to Schuls over theFluela Pass. Pratigau 336
91. From Davos to Coire by Lenz(Landwasser Route). . . . 340
92. From Coire to Davos through the Schanflggthal. Arosa . 343
X CONTENTS.
Route Page
93. From Golre to Goschenen. Oberalp 346
94. From Disentis to Biasoa. Lokmanier 354
95. From Goire to Splugen. Via Mala 355
96. From Splfigen to the Lake of Gomo 360
97. From Splugen to Bellinzona. Bernardino 362
98. From Golre to Samaden over the Albnla Pass .... 365
99. From Goire to Samaden over the Julier 367
100. From Ghiavenna to Samaden. Yal Bregaglia 371
101. The Upper Engadine from the Haloja to Samaden . . . 374
102. Pontresina and Enyirons 381
103. From Samaden to Nauders. Lower Engadine .... 387
104. From Samaden over the Bernina to Tirano and through
the ValtelUna to Colico 394
105. From Tirano to Nauders over the Stelvio 393
106. From Nauders to Bregenz over the Arlberg 403
▼n. The ItaliuL Lakes.
107. From Bellinzona to Lugano and Gomo (Milan) .... 407
108. From Bellinzona to Locarno. Yal Maggia 411
109. Lago Maggiore. The Borromean Islands 414
110. From Stresa to Orta and Varallo 421
111. From Luino on Lago Maggiore to Menaggio on the Lake
of Gomo. Lake of Lugano 425
112. The Lake of Gomo 427
113. From Gomo to Milan 434
Index 439
List of Maps.
(Comp. Index Map ctftw ih» General Index.)
1. DiSTBICT BBTWSSN ScHAVFHAUSXN ASB COMBTANCB : RR. 8, 9, 11, 12,
15, 16 ; between pp. 22, 28.
2. Lakk of Constance : RR. 10, 11, 15, 16, 17, 105 ■, between pp. 26, 27.
3. Envibgns of Schaffhausbn : RR. 8, 9. 12 ^ p. 26.
4. Lakbs of Zdbigb and Zdg : RR. 18, 14, 15, !23, 29; between pp. 36, 87.
5. Canton of Appknzell : RR. 14, 16, 17. 18, 87, 105 : between pp. 50, 51.
6. Canton of Glabds: RR. 14, 19-22; between pp. 58, 59.
7. ToDi Dibtbict: RR. 19, 20, 32, 92: between pp. 60, 61.
8. Lakb of Ldcbbhb : RR. 6, 28-31, 84, 85 ; between pp. 74, 75.
9. Rioi: RR. 84, 35, 37; between pp. 80, 81.
10. Envibgns of thb St. Gotthabd: RR. 30^33, 86, 87, 52, 79, 92; be-
tween pp. 96, 97.
11. Lggp-Tunnxls of thb St. Gotthabd Railway : R. 80; between
p. 97.
12. Tbift Dibtbict: RR. 81, 33, 37, 52, 80; between pp. 104, 105.
13. Envibgns of Enoblbbbq: RR. 80, 34-37; between pp. 114. 115.
14. Bebnbbb Obbbland: RR. 41-50, 53, 56; between pp. 140, 141.
15. Envibgns gf Intxblakbn: R. 44; p. 141.
16. Envibgns of Gbindelwald: RR. 44-50, 52; between pp. 155, 165.
17. Envibons of Kandbbstbo: RR. 46, 53-65; between pp. 172, 178.
LIST OF MAPS. xl
18. Lakb op Gbnkva: BR. 61, 64-67, 09; between pp. 206, 209.
19. LowKS Vallst of the Rhone, from the Lake or Genera to the Lotschen-
Thai: RR. 63^, 66-69, 79, 82; between pp. 224, 226.
20. HoKT Blano Dibtbict: RR. 71-76; between pp. 248, 249.
21. Envibonb ov Ghakonix, Sixt, ahd Coubmatbub : BB. 69, 71-76 ; be-
tween pp. 260, 261.
22. EmrntoNS of thb Gbbat St. Bbbhabd, from Martigny to Aosta : RR. 76-
79, 83; between pp. 278, 277.
23. Thb Uppbb Valais: RR. 79-81, 88; between pp. 288, 289.
24. Albtsch Distbiot: RR. 80, 47, 62; between pp. 2SQ, 293.
26. Alps of Canton Valaib (from Evolena to Vogogna): RR. 79, 83-86;
between pp. 298, 299.
26. Envibonb of Zebmatt: RR. 82-86; between pp. 310, 311.
27. Envibonb of Raoatz, the Pbatioau and Montavon: RR. 87, 88, 90,
106; between pp. 332, 338.
28. Vobdeb-Rheinthal : RR. 93-96, 99 ; between pp. 346, 347.
29. Distbiot fbom the Lukmanibb to the Maloja : RR. 30, 94, 96, 97, 99,
100; between pp. 360, 361.
30. The Uppeb Enoaoine and Bebnina : RR. 101, 102, 104 ; between po. 374, 376.
31. Envibonb of Pontbbbina: RR. 101. 102, 104; between pp. SoO. 381.
32. The Loweb Enoadine : RR. 89-93, 96, 99, 103, 106 ; between pp. 388, 389.
33. Laoo Haooiobb: RR. 78, 109-111; between pp. 414. 416.
34. Lakes of Como and Lugano : RR. 30, 97, 107, ill, li2 ; between pp. 426,
427.
36. Gbnbbal Kap of Switzbxland ) „«^, ., ^ j^a^^
3C. Kex Map of Switzebland *^*^' *^^ ^'^^^•
Panoramas and Views.
1. From the Rioi-Kulh, between pp. 84, 86.
2. From the Filatub, between pp. 88, 89.
3. From Bbbn, p. 132.
4. From the Kiesen, p. 140.
6. From the Heihwehflch, p. 143.
6. From HGbben, p. 149.
7. From the Faclhobn, between pp. 168, 169.
8. From the FLftoifeBE, between pp. 250. 261.
9. From the Eqqishobn, between pp. 292, 293.
10. From the Gobneb Gbat, between pp. 912, 313.
11. From the Piz Languabd, between pp. 384, 386.
Flans of Towns.
ALB, p. 2; Constance, p. 27; ZGbich, p. 30; Luoebne, p. 70; Been, p. 128;
Geneva, p. 198; Lausanne, p. 2l2; Baoatb, p. 332; Coibb, p. w3;
Milan, p. 434.
Abbreviations.
B. =: Room.
B. = Breakfast.
D. = Dinner.
L. = Light.
A. = Attendance.
M. = English mile.
ft.O = Engl. foot.
IT. s Korth, northern.
8. = South, sotfthem.
E. =
W. =
r. =
1. =
hr. =
min. =
carr. =
S.A.C.
I.A.C.
'SJB. Everything specially worthy of note is
With regard to distances, see Preface.
= East, eastern.
= West, western.
= Bight.
= Left.
= Hour.
= Minute.
= Carriage.
= Swiss Alpine Club.
= Italian Alpine Club.
indicated by an asterisk.
I. Plan of Tonr.
Season of the Year. Disiribation of Time.
The tiavellei will save both time and money by planning his tour
carefully before leaving home. The Handbook will help him to
seleet the most interesting rontes and the pleasantest resting-
places, and point out how each day may he disposed of to the best
advantage, provided the weather be favourable.
Season. The great majority of tourists visit Switzerland hetween
the middle of July and the end of September ; but to those who
wish to see the scenery, the vegetation, and particolarly the Alpine
flowers in perfection June Is recommended as the most charming
month in the year. For expeditions among the higher Alps the
month of August is the best time. Even in summer snow oocasion-
ally falls among the higher regions , rendering the mountain-paths
impassable ; but in ordinary seasons the snow disappears from the
Rlgi, the routes through the Bernese Oberland, and most of the
higher Alpine carriage-routes at the heginning of June. On the
other hand snow sometimes lies throughout the whole season on
the Furka, the Grimsel, the Gemmi, etc.
DiBtribution of Time. One Month, as the annexed plan shows,
suffices for a glimpse at the most interesting parts of Switzerland.
B^e, where the scenery is least interesting, is a good starting-
point, but the traveller may ftnd it more convenient to begin with
Geneva or Neuchatel.
Days
By railway {rom Bdle to Neuhatuen; visit the Falls of tht Rhine t by
railway from Dachsen to Zurich (BB. 1, 8, 9, 12) 1
Zurich and the Uetliberg (£.13) 1
From Zurich by railway to Zug; by steamboat to Arih; by railway
to the Rigi'Kulm (RR. 23, 28, 26) 1
From the Rigi by railway to VitxfMU (or on foot to W&ggis); by
steamboat to Lucerne, and one day at Lucerne (RR. 26, 25, 24) 1
By steamer on the Lake of Lucerne to Brunnen; visit the BUtlij
Axenstein, etc. (R. 26) 1
By steamer from Brunnen to FlUelen; by the St. (jk)tthard Railway
to OOschenen; by omnibus or on foot to Andermatt (RR.25, 30,31) . 1
By diligence over the Furka to the Rhone Olader (R. 33) ; walk over
the Orinuel to the Orinuel Bodice (R. 52)
Walk down the Haslithal (Handegg Fall) to Meiringen (RR. 52, 49) 1
Walk from Meiringen (Falls of the Reichenbach) through the Ber-
nese Oberlandj by the Scheidegg^ to [the Faulhom (RR. 49, 48) . . 1
Descend the Faulhom to] Orindelwald (Grindelwald Glaciers) (RR. 48,
47) 1
Walk from Grindelwald over the Wengemalp to Lauterbrunnen
(Staubbach) (RR. 47, 45) 1
Walk or ride to MUrren and the Schmadri Fall and back; drive to
Interlaken (RR. 46, 45) (1)
I. PI.AN. OF EXGX7BSI0N. xiil
Days
Morning at luterMeen; in tbe aHemoon by sieaiBar to the Oieubaeh
and back (BLR. U, 61) 1
By railway to DSrligm; by steamer to /Spte^; [walk to Wumnui
walk or. ride to tbe top of the IfieMen (BB. 43, 42) (1)
Descend from the Kiesen to FruHffen]^ drive or walk to Kandertteg
(B. 53) - 1
Walk from Kandersteg over the GtmnU to Bad Leuk (B. 63) . . . 1
Drive to Leuk station (B. 63); by railway to Visp (B. 79); walk to
St. Nicolau* (B. 83) *, drive to Zermatt (B. 83) 1
Walk to the Riffel Inn^ ascend the Qomergrat^ and retom to Zermatt
(B. 84) 1
Excursions from Zermatt {Oomer-Olader^ Sehioartse*. Hdmli, ete.)
(B. 84) 1
Walk back to VUip (B. 83) i by railway to Mariignf (B. 79) . . . 1
To Chamonix over the Col de Bdlme or the TSte-ITaire (BB. 74, 73) 1
Chamanix (B. 72) 1
To Vtmafos by TH^^nt and Saltan (B. 73); by railway to Jfon-
tntue (B. 66) 1
BxenrsiOBS from Kontreux and Vevey (B. 66); by steamboat to
Oeneva (B. 66) 1
Geneva and Environs (BB. 64) 1
By railway to Loueanne; several hours at Lausanne; by railway in
the afternoon to Freiburg (BB. 66, 61) 1
By railway to Bern (B. 61); at Bern (B. 40) 1
By railway to BdU (B. 4); at Bdle (B. 1) 1
A few Additional days may be pleMantly spent in EMtem
Switierland (Appenzell, Bad Pfafers, Via Mala, Upper Engadine),
whence the Italiaxi LakM aie easily visited. Borsehaeh (p. 48) and
Zurich (comp. R. 14) are good starting-points.
BaUway from Borschach to ffeiden^w9lk over the Kaien to Trogen,
and over the Oabris to Gats (B. 17) 1
Walk from Gais to Weistbad, the WUdiirchlL and the JEbenalp; re-
turn to Weissbad, thence to Appenzell (B. 17) 1
Walk from Appenzell to (?at<, and over the Sioee to AiUiddten in
the Bhine valley (B. 87) ; train to Ragats (B. 87) 1
Pfdfere and Coire (BB. ^,89) 1
Diligence to Thutis ; walk through the Via Mala as far as the third
bridge, and return to Thusis (B. 96) ; walk by the Schynttratse to
Tie/enkasten (B. 96)
Diligence over the Juher to SUvaplana (B. 99) and 8t. MoriU; walk
to Pontresina (BB. 101, 102) 1
Ascend the Pit Languard (B. 102) 1
Diligence over the Bemina to Tirano^ Messagerie to Sondrio (B. 104);
railway to Colico (B. 104); steamer to Como (B. 112) 1V«
[Or diligence over the Maloja to Chiaftenna. railway -to Colieo.\
Betnm by steamer to Bellagio (Villa MeM, Serbelloni, and CaWoJto);
then by Menaggio and Porlezza to Lugano (B. Ill) 1
Steamboat to Ponte Tresa, railway to l^ino ^. 111); steamer to the
Borromean leUmdi and to Pallanza or Streta (B. 109) 1
Steamboat to Lavenoj and back by the St. Ootthard Bailway to
Lucerne 1
Or by diligence over the Simplon to Brieg (B, 79) 1
So comprehensive a tour tm the above Is of course rarely under-
taken; bnt it will enal>le the traveller to plan an excursion of suit-
able length, such as one of the following : —
xlY I. PLAN OP EXCURSION.
I. EiOHT Dat8 fbom BIlb.
(Bigij BitiuM OberUmd^ Rhone tfloeter, St. QoUkard Route.)
Ist. From Bdle (or Constance or Romanehom) to Z&rieh. Uetliberg.
!hid. To Zug^ Arlhy the Rigi^ and Lucerne.
3rd. Over the BrUnig to Briene, the Oiestibach^ and Jnterlaken (or
by railway to 2%«n, and thence to Interledten).
4th. To £a«/er&f*unn«n, and oyer the Wengemalp to CTrtiidelvald.
5th. Over the Oreat Scheidegg to Mciringen.
6th. Through the Saslithal (Handegg Fall) to the 0rtoM«l ffoepiee.
7th. By the (?fi»wel, the Rhone OladeTf and the Furia to Andertnatt
or OffMchenen.
8th. To FlUelen, Lucerne, and ^d<«.
II. TWSLYB OS FOUBTEBN DaTB FBOM BIlB.
C.S^, ^em<«« Oherland, Zermatty Oemmi.)
l8t-6th. As in Tour I.
7th. Oyer the Grinuel to the Rhone 0laeier. Drive to Fieech; walk
or ride to the Mdtel Eggishom; walk to summit the same evening or
next mominjg. (Two additional days: — Walk by the Riederalp to the
Belalp. — Ascend the Bparrenhom, descend to Brieg, and take the train
to rup.)
8th. Drive to Brieg, take train to Viep, walk or ride to St. iTitlaffS,
and walk, ride, or drive to Zermatf.
9th. Ascend the RUffclherg and Oomergraty etc.
10th. Return to Vitp.
11th. To Bad-Leuk and over the Oemmi to Kandersteg.
12th. To Spies and Thun (train to Bdle^ or to Bern and Oeneva).
in. Sixteen Days fbok BIlb.
(Rtgi, Bernese Oberland^ Zermatt, Chamonix^ Lake ef Oeneva.)
l8t-9th. As in Tour II.
iOth. To Viepy and by train to Martigng.
11th. Over the Tete-Iroire or the Col de BaUne to Chamonix.
12th. Excursions from Chamonix.
13th. By Salvan to Vemayat; by train to Montreux,
14th, 15th. To Veveg^ Lausanne^ and Oeneva.
16th. To Freiburg^ Bern, and Bdle (or from Bern to NeuchAtel^.
IV. Sevbntebn to Twektt Dats fboh Bale.
(Bigi^ Bernese Oberland, Southern Valais, Chamonix.)
lst-8th. As in Tour II.
9th. Ascend the Oomergrat and return to St. Jfiklaus.
10th. Gross the Augslbord Pass (ascent of Sehwarshom) to Qruben.
11th. Gross the Meiden Pass (ascent of Bella Tola) to St. Lue, Vis-
sogsy or Zinal.
12th. At Zinal (visit the Alp Arpitetta, etc.).
13th. Gross the Col de Torrent to Evolena.
14th, 15th. At Evolena (Arolla and Ferpiele), and return to Sion.
16th, 17th. Gross the Oemmi to Kandersteg and Thun (or by rail to
Lausanne^ Freiburg, and Bern).
(Or: 15th. From Evolena to Sion and Martigny. 16th-20th. To Cha-
monix, Oeneva, eto., as in Tour III.)
V. Sevbh Days fbom BAlb.
(Bernese Oberland, Rigi, St. Ootthard Railway, Italian Lakes.)
Ist. From Bdle to Bern and Interlaken,
2nd. To Lauterbruwnen, and over the Wengemalp to Orindeheald.
3rd. Over the ^Treaf Seheidegg to Meiringen.
4th. Over the BrUnig to ZuceriM; by F»7in»ati to the Rtgi-Kuhn,
5th. From ^r^A by the ;8^. (^oMAard Railway to Xaveno (Stresa, Bor-
mean Islands).
I. PLAN OF EXGUBSION. xr
QOk. By Luino and the Late of Lugano to S»llaifio,
Tth. Steamer to Como; back by the St. Gotthard Bail, to Luceme, etc.
VI. Eight ob Tbh Dats tbox Balk.
(Rigi^ Lake qf Lttceme^ 8t. Ootthard^ Italian Lakee^ SplUgen.)
Ist. From Bdle to Lucerne, and by Arth to the Rigi-Kuhn.
2nd. Descend to ViUnau; steamer to Brunnen iAgenetein. RUtli, etc.).
(One or two additional days : visit the Maderaner Thai irom AmHeg^
and return by the Staffeln. By train or carriage to Q&eehenen.)
3rd. By the St. Gotthard Line to Loeamo.
4th. To the Borromean Islands, Luino, and Lugano.
5th. By Como, or by Porletza, to Bellagio.
6th. Walks at Bellagio*, steamer to CoUeo; drive to Chiavenna.
7th. Cross the SplUgen to Coire.
8th. To Zurich and NeuchdUl (or to the Falls of the Rhine and Bdle).
VII. TWXLVB TO FOUBTBBH DaTS FKOM BIlb.
(Same as Tonr VI., with the addition of the Upper Engadine.)
Istrfith. As in Tonr VI.
6th. To Chiavenna and through the Val Bregaglia to Casaccia.
7th. Gross the Maloja to 8t. Moritx and Pontresina.
8th, 9th. At Pontresina (Piz Languard, etc.).
10th. Gross the Albula to Tiefenkasten.
11th. Through the Bchyn Pass to ThuHs (Via Mala) and Coire,
12th. To ifa^ate (PfUfers) and ZilrtcA.
Vm. SiXTEBN TO ElOHTEKM DaTS FSOH BaLX.
(8ame as Tour VII., with the addition of the ValtelHna and Lower Engadine.}
Ist^th. As in Tour VII.
9th. Cross the Bemina to Tirano,
10th. Through the ValtelHna to Bormio.
11th. Cross the Wormser Joeh (Pis Umibrail) to St. Maria in the
UHnsterthal (or cross the Stelvio to Trafoi and Spondinig).
12th. Over the 0/en PaM to Zemets (or drive by Nauders and Martins-
hnuik to j9eA«I«).
13th. Cross the FluelchPctss to Z)avo«.
Uth. Landwasser Route to Tiifenkaeten.
15th, 16th. As 11th and 12th of Tour vn.
IX. Onb Month fboh Gsnbva.
(Chamonix, Courmayeur, Zermatt, Macugnaga, Simplon, Upper Rhone
Valley, Tosa Fall, St. Ooithard, Lake of Lucerne, Rigi, Bernese Oherland.)
1st. From Geneva by steamer to Chillon, and by train to Aigle.
2nd. Drive to Champiry.
3rd. Cross the Col de Coux and Col de OoUse to Samoins and Bixi»
4th. Gross the Col d'Anteme to Chamonix.
5th, 6th. At Chamonix; excursions.
7th. Cross the Col de Vota to ContanUnes.
8th. Cross the Col de Bonhomme and the Col des Fours to Motteis.
9th. Cross the Col de la Beigne to Courmayeur and Aosta.
10th. Bail to ChAHllon and walk or ride to Val Toumanche.
Uth. Cross the Thiodule Pass to Zermatt.
12th, 18th. At Zermatt; excursions.
Uth. To Sacu and Mattmark.
15th. To Macugnaga by the Monte Moro.
16th. Walk or ride to Vogogna (and thence, if time permit, devote
a couple of days or more to the Itlian Lakes).
l7th. Cross the Simplon to Brieg.
18th. Drive to Ftesch; ascend Eggishom.
xvl I. PLAN OF EXCURSION.
19th. Drive to Oberffmtelen (perhaps Tisit the Rhone Olader thence)
and croM the ari«$ Pats to the Fall of the Tosa.
20th. Croas the S. Oitteomo P<u$ to Airole.
2l8t. By train to FlOeUn; steamboat to VUtnau. / .>•«
22nd. Riffi.
23rd. To Lucerne.
24th. Cross the BrBnig to Meiringen.
26th. To Rotenlavi and OrmdelteaJd.
26fh. Gross the Wengemalp to Lauterbrunnen ; drive to Interlaken.
27th. Visit Giesebaeh; steamboat from Interlaken to Thun.
28th. To Bern; thence to Bdle or back to Geneva.
All the aboye tonrs are adapted for moderate walkers, and
may of course be yaried at pleasure.
Lastly, to travellers who are disinclined for a prolonged tour,
the following notes may be acceptable : —
Famoaa P«liKta of Yiew.
/I. In the Ju* (with the Alps in the distance, the lovrer Swiss
hills in the foreground, and, from the westernmost points, the lakes
of Bienne, Neuchatel, and Geneva) : B6UI 8chu>eixerhof (p. 2A) by the Falls
of the Rhine; the Weissenstein (p. 14) near Soleure; the Frohburg {^. 12)
near Olten ; the Chaumont (p. 186) and the Tite de Rang (p. 187), in Canton
Neuchatel ; the Signal de Chexhres (p. 195), the SigncU de Bougy (p. 211), the
D6le (p. 211), the Mont Tendre (p. 198) and the Dent de Vaulion (p. 198) in
the Canton de Vaud.
2. Nearer the Alps, or among the Lower Alps:
(a). On the N. siae of the Alps: the Kaien (p. 51), ffohe Kasten
(p. 58), and Sentis (p. 54) in Canton Appenzell \ the Uetliberg (p. 36) and
BaehUl (p. 41) near Zurich ; the Speer (p. 42) near Wesen-, the Alvier (p. 44)
near Sargans; the i2iV« (P- 81) , Pilatui (p. 88), Mythen (p. 97), Hieder-
bauen (p. 77), and the Frohnalpetoek (p. 78) near the Lake of Lucerne ; the
Ifapf (p. 128) in the Entlebuch; the Ourten (p. 184) OAar Bern; the Jfiesen
(p. 137) near the Lake of Thun } the MoUson (p. 227) and Jaman (p. 228)
in Canton Freiburg i the StUive (P* 206) and the Voiron* ip. 208) in Savoy,
near Geneva : the Chamossaire (p. 221) near Villars.
C>). On the S. side of the Alps : Monte Oeneroso (p. 411), Jlonte S. Sal-
vaioi e (p. ^09) and Monte Brh (p. 408) near the Lake of Lugano \ Monte
Motlerone (p. 421) between the lakes of Maggiore and Orfca ; the Becea di
Mona (p. 2^ near Aosta; the Cramont (p. 265) near Pr^ St. Didier.
8. Among the Hijrh Alps: Muot Marmori (p. 367), Muottas Mvraigl
(p. 380), Schafberg (p. 383), Pi* Languard (p. 384), Pit Ot (p. 380), Schwart-
hom (p. 339), Stdtterhom (p. 368), Pi* Mundaun (p. 347) and Pi* Muraun
(p. 36Q) in the Grisons; the Scheinige Platte (p. 145), Faulhom (p. 1B8),
Wenoemalp (p. 153), MSnnliehen (p. 155), Brienzer Roihhom (p. 164), MUrren
(v. 149), and the Schilthom (p. 150) in the Bernese Oberland ; the A««<'
Centrale (p. 107) on the St. Gotthard •, the Furkahom (p. 112), Kleine Biedel-
hom (p. 168), BggUhom (p. 298), Sparrhom (p. 286), the Torrenthom (p. 175),
Pierre it voir (p. 224), Gomergrat (p. 812), Schwar*hom (p. 307), BeUa Tola
(p. 805) and Pic drAr*inol (p. 299) in the Valais; the Col de Balme (p. 259),
FUgire (p. 251), and Brivent (p. 251) near Chamonix \ Pie Umbrail (p. 400)
on the Sielvio route.
Principal Alpine Passes.
Pre-eminent in point of scenery is the St. Gotthard (R. 30), rendered
easily accessible by the railway across it^ but it need hardly be said that
its iStractions are not seen *» advantage from the windows of a train.
Next to it ranks the SplUgen (KJl. tfO, »b), particularly on the N. side,
where it coincides with the Bernardino RouteiR. 97). The finest approach
to the Engadine is by the Scht^-Straue (P- 356) and the Albula Pa** (E. 98) i
and the beautiful Maloja Pa** (BR. 100, 101) leads thence to the Lske
of Como. From the Engadine the interesting Bemina Paes (R. 104) croase*
to the somewhat monotonous Valtellma, the journey' through which lias,
n. TRATBLLING EXPENSES. MONEY. xvii
however, been much facilitated by tbe new railway from Sondrio to Collco.
Very grand, though long and circuitous, is the route descending the Knga-
dine and crossing the Resehen-Seheideek (p. 402) and the Stelvio (R. 105) to
11^ ' Valtellina. In Western Switeerland the aimplon (B. 79) is justly a
favourite pass, though inferior to several of the above , while the Damons
Great St. Bernard (R. 77), apart from its hospice, is undoubtedly the least
interesting of the series. Many of the grandest, and 'also easiest passes
are comprised in the 9th of the above Tours.
Headquarters for Xountaiaeering.
The most important are Orindelwald (p. 151), Eermatt (p. 311), Cha-
monix Cp> 247), Courmayeur (p. 264), Maeugnaffa (p. 817), and Pontresina
(p. 380), at all of which ezperienced guides abound.
■ ' Health Betorts.
Switzerl^d can boast of few mineral springs, but ^Luftkurorte*
, ('air -cure places') and summer pensions abound in every part of the
I country. A few of the most important only need be mentioned here.
MiNXKAL Baths. Tarasp, in the Lower Engadine (p. 391); 8t. Moritz,
". in the Upper Engadine (p. 377) \ Ragats (p. 329) \ Staehelberg (p. 60) \
Weissenburg (p. 181); Lenk (p. 178); Leuk or Logche (p. 175); the saline
baths of Bex and Aigle (pp. 221, 220) ; St. Gervaie (p. 246).
WiVTEB Besokts for invalids : Davos (p. 240) ; Montreux (p. 217).
SuMMSB Bbsobtb, sec p. xviii.
n. Travelling Expenses. Honey.
I Ezpenset. The cost of a torn in Switzerland depends of course
upon the habits and tastes of the traveller. The pedestrian's daily
expenditure, exclusive of guides, may be estimated at 12-15«., if
he frequents the best hotels, or one-third less if he selects the
more modest inns, and avoids the expensive and tedious tables
d'h6te. The traveller who prefers driving and riding to walking,
who always goes to the best hotels, and never makes an ascent
without a guide, must be prepared to spend at least twice the above
sum ; while the mountaineer's expenses will often amount to several
pounds for a single glader-expedltion.
Money. The Swiss monetary system was assimilated to that of
France in 1851. In silver there are coins of 5, 2, 1, and i/2 fr.
(Those of 1859-63, with the sitting figure of Helvetia, which have
been called In, and Italian and Papal 1 fr. and V2 ^^* pieces should
be declined). In plated copper 20, 10, and 5 centimes (or 'Rappen'),
and in copper 2 and 1 c. pieces. One franc s= 100 c. = (in Ger-
man money) 80 pfennigs = 93/4^. French gold is the most con-
venient coin, and English sovereigns (25 fr.) and banknotes are re-
eeived almost everywhere at the full value; but the circular notes
of iOl., Issued by many of the English banks, are safer for carrying
large sums. German gold and banknotes also realize their full value
(20 marks = 24 fr. 50-60 c).
m. Hotels and Pensions.
Hotels. Switzerland Is famous for its hotels. The large modern
establishments at Geneva, Yevey, Zurich, Lucerne, Interlaken, etc.,
are models of organisation ; the smaller hotels are often equally well
Bakdbkeb, Switzerland. 11th Edition. b
xnii m. HOTELS AND PENSIONS.
conducted, and indeed a really bad inn is rarely met with in French
or German Switzerland.
The ordinary charges at the first-class hotels are: bed -room
from 2^2 fr-, table d'hote 4-6 fr. ; breakfast (tea or coffee, bread,
butter, and honey) lV2^r. in the public room, 2fr. in the traveller's
apartment; candle Ifr., service Ifr.; supper generally h la carte.
When attendance is charged in the bill, nothing more need be given
except to the boots and porter. At the large hotels the best accom-
modation is generally reserved for families, while the solitary tra-
veller is consigned to the' inferior rooms at equally high charges.
At the second-class inns the average charges are : bed-room from
172^r-> breakfast l-lY4fr., t?ible d'hote 2 Y2-3f^-> service discre-
tionary, and no charge for 'bougies'.
Opinions regarding hotels often differ ; but travellers will rarely
have much cause to complain if they endeavour to comply with the
customs of the country, restrict their luggage to a moderate quantity,
and leam enough of the language to make themselves intelligible.
If a prolonged stay is made at a hotel, the bill should be asked for
every three or four days, in order that errors, whether accidental or de-
signed, may more easily oe detected. When an early departure is contem-
plated, the bill should be obtained over-night. It is not an uncommon
practice to withhold the bill till the last moment, when the hurry and
confusion of starting render overcharges less liable to discovery.
In the height of the season the hotels at the favourite resorts of trav-
ellers are often crowded. To prevent disappointment rooms should be tele-
graphed for (p. xxv).
PensioiLS. Boarding-houses or 'pensions' abound at Lucerne,
Geneva, Interlaken, and in many other parts of Switzerland. The
charge for board and lodging varies from 4 to 10 or 15 fr., and at
some of the most famous health-resorts and watering-places some-
times amounts to 20 fr. per pay. As the word 'pension' is some-
times used to signify board only, the traveller should ascertain
whether rooms are included in the charge or not. In the dull
season (October to June) many of the hotels also take visitors 'en
pension', usually charging 1-3^2 ^i^- P^^ week extra for attendance.
Among the Swiss Summer Beaorts may be mentioned: —
In KosTHEBN Switzerland: The Weissenstein (4213'; p. 14) near So-
leure; Langenbruck (2355'; p. 12) and Frenhendorf (llStX; p. 11) near Lies
tal ; the Frohburg (2772'; p. 12) near Olten ; the Chaumont (3845'; p. 186)
near Neuchatel; ZiiiHch (1345'; p. 31) and the Uetliberg (2864'; p. 36);
Wadennoyl (p. 89) and other places on the Lake of Ziirich (13^'); Sehdn/els
and FeUenegg (3025'; p. 69) near Zug; Wesen (UlC; p. 42) ; Biaehelberg (2178';
p. 60); Richigau (3592') in the Klonthal (p. 64); HtrUer-WUggithal (3802*;
p. 40); the Heinnchgbad (2300', p. 46), near Herisau; Rorschach (1312';
p. 48); Walzmhausen (p. 49); Heiden (2645'; p. 51), Gais (3064'; p. 52), and
Weissbad (2680^; p. 53) in Appenzell; Wildhaus (3622'; p. 57) in the Tog-
genburg.
On the Lake of Lucebne (1434') : Ltieeiiie (p. 70) ; Meggen (p. 91) ; ffer-
tenstein (p. 75); Weggis (p. 73); Beckenried (p. 76); Vitznau (p. 75); Oertau
(p/76); 5i*Mnnen(p.78); Axenstein (2330') and Axenfels (2156'; p. 78); Seelisberg
(^772'; p. 77); -Bfl»v«»«<oc* (2854'; p. 117); /8f<oo» (4242'; p. 78); Rigi-KUftterli
(4262'; p. 81), Kaia)ad (4700*), First (4747'), StcitTel (6210'), and Scheidegg (5407').
In Untebwaldbn : Engelberg (3314'; p. 114). In Ubi: The Maderaner
Thai (4788'; p. 108); Andermatt (3788'; p. 106).
IV. PASSPORTS. xlx
In the BBBirsBJi Obbblakd: Btm iXim\ p. 129); Thun (1844'; p. 136);
Oherho/en (p. 130), Ounten (p. 139), and Spiez (p. 139) on the Lake of Thun
(1837')-, Interlakm (1863'; p. 140); 8t. Beaienherg (3766'; p. 144); the Oiessbach
(1857': p. 166); i/iflfren (6348'; p. 149); Qrindelieald (^iJS&\ p. 165); BngMilen-
alp (0033'; p. 116).
On the Labs of Geneva, in the Bhone Yallet, etc.: Geneva (1243';
p. 199); Onchy (p. 212); La%i$anne (p. 212); Yevey (p. 214); Montreux
(p. 217); auon (2»4'; p. 218); AigU (1375'; p. 290); Bex (1^; p. 231);
VUlart (4166'; p. 221); the OrmonU (3704'; p. 226); OUUeau d'Oex (3498';
p. 229); BelcUp (7153'; j>. 286); Eggishom (7195'; p. 298); Zfi»-ma« (5315';
p. 311), the Bifeldlp (7906'; p. 312) and Riffelherg (8429'; p. 312) ; />« (6900*;
p. 820); j9(. Z«c (5496'; p. 305) ; Zinal (9S0&; p. 304) ; Evolena (4620*; p. 299) ;
Ch(wionix (3445*; p. 240).
In the Geibons : Samaden (5670'; p. 379) ; Pontresina (5915'; p. 880) ;
Bt. MoHtz (6090*; p. 878); Sils-Maria (^95*; p. 376); 5cA«I« (3970': p. 391);
Dav&s (6115'; p. 340); Klosters (3991'; p. 337); SeewU (2986'; p. 336); Wald-
hOuser (3615'; p. 347), near Films; DUentu (3773'; p. 350); Wiesen (4770*;
p. 842); Churwalden 0976'; p. 367).
On the SoDTH Sn>E of the Alps : Lugano (982'; p. 406) ; Beltagio (p. 429),
Caderiobbia, MenaggiOy etr.^ on the Lake of Gomo (699*); PaUanea (p. 418)
and B*resa (p. 420) , on the Lago Haggiore (646*) ; M<mU Generoso (SdeO*;
p. 411) and Lanxo d^Intehfi (3117'; p. ^), near the Lake of Lugano.
IV. Passports. Custom House.
Passports. In Switzerland passports are unnecessary, but as
they must be shown in order to obtain delivery of registered letters,
and are sometimes of service in proving the traveller's identity,
it is unwise not to be provided with one. The principal passport-
agents in London are : Lee and Carter, 440 West Strand ; Dorrel
and Son, 15 Charing Cross; £. Stanford, 6 Charing Cross; W. J.
Adams, 59 Fleet Street.
Custom House. Luggage is rarely examined at the Swiss
custom-house, but the formalities of the douane must be un-
dergone by persons leaving Switzerland. At the French, Italian,
and Austrian frontiers the examination is sometimes strict, and to-
bacco and cigars pay a heavy duty, but at the German frontier the
visile is usually lenient. As a rule the traveller should restrict his
belongings as far as possible to wearing apparel and articles for per-
sonal use.
Y, Walking Tours.
In a mountainous country like Switzerland it is to pedestrians
alone that many of the finest points are accessible, and even where
driving or riding is practicable, walking is often more enjoyable.
Disposition of Time. The first golden rule for the walker is to
start early. If strength permits, and a suitable halting-place Is to
be met vrith, a walk of one or two hours may be accomplished be-
fore breakfast. At noon a moderate luncheon is preferable to the
usual table d*h6te dinner. Rest should be taken during the hottest
hours (12-3), and the journey then continued till 5 or 6 p.m.,
when a substantial meal (evening table d'h6te at the principal hotels)
may be partaken of. The traveller's own feelings will best dictate
the hour for retiring to bed.
b*
XX V. . WALKING TOURS.
Equipment. A superabundance of luggage infallibly increases
the delays, annoyances , and expenses of travel. To be provided
with enough and no more, may be considered the second golden
rule for the traveller. A light ^gibeci^re' or game-bag, which is
far less Irksome to carry than a knapsack, suffices to contain all that
is necessary for a week's excursion. A change of flannel shirts and
worsted stockings , a few pocket-handkerchiefs , a pair of slippers,
and the 'objets de toilette' may, with a little practice, be carried
with hardly a perceptible increase of fatigue. A pocket-knife with a
corkscrew, a leather drinking-cup, a spirit-flask, and a piece of
green crape or coloured spectacles to protect the eyes from the glare
of the snow, should not be forgotten. Useful, though less indispens-
able, are an opera-glass or small telescope, sewing materials, a supply
of strong cord, sticking plaster, a small compass, a pocket-lantern,
a thermometer, and an aneroid barometer. The traveller's reserve
of clothing should be contained in a portmanteau of moderate size,
which he can easily wield himself when necessary, and which may
be forwarded from town to town by post.
The mountaineer should have a well-tried Alpenstock^ consist-
ing of a pole of seasoned ash, 5-6' long, shod with a steel point,
and strong enough, when placed horizontally, with the ends sup-
ported, to bear the whole weight of the body. For the more difficult
ascents an lee- Axe and Rope are also necessary. The best ropes, light
and strong, are made of silk or Manilla hemp. In crossing a glacier
the precaution of using the rope should never be neglected. It
should be securely tied round the waist of each member of the
party, leaving a length of about 10' between each one and his
follower. Ice-axes are made in various forms, and are usually
fumished with a spike at the end of the handle, so that they can
in some measure be used like an Alpenstock.
General Hints. The traveller's ambition often exceeds his
powers of endurance, and if his strength be once overtaxed he will
sometimes be incapacitated altogether for several days. At the
outset, therefore, the walker's performances should be moderate:
and even when he is in good training , they should rarely exceed
10 hrs. a day. When a mountain has to be breasted, the pedes-
trian should avoid 'spurts', and pursue the 'even tenor of his way'
at a steady and moderate pace (^chi va piano va sano; chi va sano
va lontand'). As another golden maxim for his guidance, the travel-
ler should remember that — 'When fatigue begins, enjoyment ceases'.
Mountaineering among the higher Alps should not be attempted
before the middle or end of July, nor at any period after a long
continuance of rain or snow. Glaciers should , if possible, be tra-
versed before 10 a.m., after which hour the sun softens the crust
of ice formed during the night over the crevasses. Experienced
guides are indispensable for such excursions.
The traveller is cautioned against sleeping in chalets, unless ab-
VI. MAPS. xxi
solutely neeeisaiy. Whatever poetry there may be theoretically in
*a fragrant bed of hay\ the cold night-air piercing abundant aper-
tnres , the ringing of the cow-bells , the grunting of the pigs^ and
the undiscarded garments, hardly conduce to refreshing slumber.
As a rule, therefore, the night preyious to a mountain expedition
should be spent either an inn or at one of the club-huts which the
Swiss, German, and Italian Alpine Olubs have recently erected
for the convenience of travellers.
Mountaineers should provide themselves with fresh meat, bread,
and wine or spirits for long expeditions. The chalets UBually afford
nothing but Alpine fare (milk , cheese, and stale bread). Gladez-
water should not be drunk except in small quantities, mixed with
wine or cognac. Cold milk is also safer when qualified with spirits.
One of the best beverages for quenching the thirst is cold tea.
Over all the movements of the pedestrian the weather holds
despotic sway. The barometer and weather-wise natives should be
consulted when an opportunity offers. The blowing down of the
wind from the mountains into the valleys in the evening, the melt^
ing away of the clouds, the fall of fresh snow on the mountains,
and the ascent of the cattle to the higher parts of their pasture are
all signs of fine weather. On the other hand it is a bad aign if the
distant mountains are dark blue in colour and very distinct In out-
line, if the wind blows up the mountains , and if the dust rises in
eddies on the roads. West winds also usually bring rain.
Health.. For wounds and braises linc ointment is a good remedy.
Another is a mixture of Vs oz. of white wax, V^ oz. tallow. */4 oz. olive
oil, and 1 V2 drachms of vinegar of lead, melted together. For inflammation
of the skin, caused by the glare of the sun on the snow, cold cream or
glycerine and starch are recommended. Another remedy is an ointment
of equal parts of almond oil, white wax, and spermaceti. ^
For diarrhoea 16 drops of tincture of opium and aromatic tincture
mixed in equal quantities may be taken every two hours until relief is
afforded. The homceopatbic tincture of camphor is also useful.
VI. Haps.
1. Maps of Switzbaland in Okb Shbbi: : —
^ZiegUr's neue Karte der SehwtU (1 : 330,000), with explan-
ations and index. Price 12 fir.
ZiegUr'i Hypsometr, Karte (1 : 380,000), 4 sheets, 20 fr.
Leutkold'8 Karte (1 : 400,000), 10 fr.
KeUer'8 Karte (1 : 450,000), 6 fr.
^Liuzinger's neue Karte (1 : 400,000), 8fr.
2. Maps on a Lasobb Soalb : —
OeneraOtarU der Sdtweh (i : 250,000), published by the gov-
ernment topographic office, reduced from Dufour's Map, 4 sheets.
The Alpine Club Map of Switxerland , published by R. C. Ni-
ehoU (1 : 250,000), 4 sheets, 42a.
*Topographi8che Karte der 8ekwei%y from surveys made by order
xxll Vn. GUIDES.
of the Federal aathorities (under the superintendence of Oeneral
Dufour); scale 1:100,000; 25 sheets, each 1 to 21/2 fr. (not
mounted). Heights are given in m^res.
An admirable work on a still larger scale is the *Topogra'
phUehe AUcu det 8chwei%y on the scale of the original drawings
(flat districts 1 : 25,000, mountains 1 : 50,000), published by the
Federal Staff Office (each sheet 1 fi:.)*
For Ghamonlx, Reilly's Map of Mont Blanc, and Mieulet's Massif
du Montblanc (1 : 40,000).
For the Engadine, ZUgler'a Karte des Ober- und Unter-Engadin,
in 6 sheets (1 : 50,000).
vn. Guides.
On well-trodden routes like those of the Rigi, Pilatus, Wen-
gem Alp, Faulhorn, Scheideck, Grimsel, Gemmi, etc., the services
of a guide are unnecessary ; but the traveller may engage the first
urchin he meets to carry his pouch or knapsack for a trifling gratuity.
Guides are, however, indispensable for glacier-expeditions. As a
class, they will be found to be intelligent and respectable men,
well versed in. their duties, and acquainted with the people and
resources of the country.
The great stations for guides are Interlaken, Lauterbrunnen,
Grindelwald, Meiringen, Martigny, Ghamonlx, Oourmayeur, Zer-
matt, and Pontresina, while for the principal passes guides are
always to be found at the neighbouring villages. The traveller
should select one of the certificated guides , who have passed an
examination, and are furnished with legal certificates of character
and qualifications. The usual pay of a guide is 6-8 fr. for a day of
8 hrs. ; he is bound to carry 15-18 pounds of baggage, and to hold
himself at the entire disposition of his employers. If dismissed at
a distance from home, he is entitled to 6 fr. a day for the return-
journey ; but he is bound to return by the shortest practicable route.
Although a guide adds considerably to the traveller's expenses,
the outlay will seldom be regretted. A good guide points out many
objects which the best maps fall to indicate ; he furnishes interesting
information about manners and customs, battle-fields, and historical
incidents ; and when the traveller reaches his hotel, wearied with the
fatigues of the day, his guide often renders him valuable service.
It need hardly be said that a certain amount of good fellowship and
confidence should subsist between the traveller and the man who
is perhaps to be his sole companion for several days, and upon
whose skill and experience his very life not unfrequently depends.
Divided among a party, the expense of a guide is of course
greatly diminished ; but where there is much luggage to carry, it is
often better to hire a horse or mule, the attendant of which will
=terve as a guide on the ordinary routes.
IX. DILIGENCES, etc. xxiil
Adult porters are entitled to 75 cent, or 1 fr. an hour, when
not engaged by the day, return included. In every case it is advis-
ahle to make a distinct bargain beforehand.
Vm. Carriages and Horses.
Caxriages. The ordinary charge for a carriage with one horse is
15-20 fr., with two horses 25-30 fr. per day, and the driver ex-
pects 1 fr. per horse as a gratuity. In the height of summer the
charges are slightly increased. Like the guides, the Woiturier*
demands the return-fare to the place where he was engaged, and
the traveller should therefore endeavour to discharge his carriage
as near the home of the driver as possible.
For long journeys it is desirable to have a written agreement,
which the driver usually concludes by depositing a sum with his
employer as earnest-money, afterwards to be added to the account.
The carriage and horses should be inspected before the conclusion
of the bargain. Private posting, or the system of changing horses,
is forbidden by law.
Return-vehicles may sometimes be obtained for 10 to 15 fr. per
day, but the use of them is in some places prohibited.
The average day's journey is 30-40 miles, a halt of 2-3 hrs.
being made about noon ; and for the return-journey about 36 M.
In mountainous districts 'Bergwagli' or 'chars-k-bancs', for two
persons, may be hired for 12-15 fr. per day, fees included.
Horses. A horse or mule costs 10-12 fr. per day, and the atten-
dant expects a gratuity of 1-2 fr. in addition; but in some places,
as at Ohamonix, as much is charged for the attendant as for the
animal. If he cannot return home with his horse on the same day,
the following day must be paid for. Walking, however, is prefer-
able. A prolonged ascent on horseback is fatiguing, and the de-
scent of a steep hill is disagreeable. Even ladies may easily ascend
some of the finest points of view on foot, but if unequal to the
task they may either ride or engage *chaises-Ji-porteurs\
IX. Diligences, Post Office, Telegraph.
Biligences. The. Swiss postal system is weU organised. The
diligences are generally well fitted up, the drivers and guards are
respectable, and the fares moderate. These vehicles consist of the
eoup€, or first-class compartment in front , with 2-3 seats, the tn-
terieur, or second-class compartment at the back, with 4-6 seats,
which affords little or no view, and the banquette (used in summer
only) for 2 passengers on the outside. In some cases there is only
one outside-seat, which is reserved for the conducteufj or guard,
but which will be ceded by him on payment of the difference be-
tween the ordinary and the coup^ fare.
On important routes the coup^ is generally engaged several days
xxiv IX. DILIGENCES, etc.
befoTehand. This may be done by letter, enclosing the fare, and
giving the traveller's name , and the day and hour of departure.
When the diligence is full, 'Beiwagen^ or supplementary carriages
are provided. These are often light , open vehicles , preferable
to the lumbering 'Postwagen'. A seat in one of them may gen-
erally be procured by arrangement with the conductor. As a rule
passengers are consigned to the inUrieur or to a supplementary
carriage in the order in which they are booked. If therefore the
traveller has failed to secure a coupS or banquette seat by early
application, he will often avoid the inttfrieur by delaying to take
his ticket till the diligence is about to start.
The coupS or banquette fare is on ordinary routes 20 c. per
kilometre (about 32 c. per Engl. M.), on Alpine passes 30 c. per kilom.
(about 48 c. per Engl. M.); fare in the intirieur or cabriolet 15 or
25 c. per kilometre (24 or 40 per Engl. M.). Children of 2-7 years of
age pay half-fare. Each passenger is allowed 33 lbs. of luggage
on ordinary routes, but 22 lbs. only on the high Alpine routes.
Overweight is charged for at the ordinary postal tariff. Small articles
may be taken into the carriage, but heavy luggage should be booked
one hour before starting. The average speed of these sedate mail-
coaches of Switzerland is about 6 M. per hour on level ground, and
4 M. per hour on mountains-routes.
Eztri^FoBt. This is the term applied to the Swiss system of
posting, managed by government, private posting being prohibited.
The charge for each horse is Va^^* P^^^ kilomMre (80 c. per M.); for
a carriage with 2-5 seats 20 c. per kilom. (32 c. per M.), for one
with 6 seats 25 c. per kilom. (40 c. per M.), for one with 7 or
more seats 30 c. per kilom. (48 c. per M.). Besides these charges,
which include the driver's fee, an additional payment of 2-4 fr.
must be made according to the size of the carriage. If the same
vehicle is required for a journey of several stages, double carriage-
money is exacted. Extra-post may be ordered at the principal post-
offlces on the mountain-routes at one hour's notice. The fare must
be paid in advance.
Letters of 15 grammes (about Y2 ^^O) prepaid, to any part of
Switzerland 10 c; if within a radius of 10 kilom Mres, 5 c.; to all
countries in the postal union 25 c., and 25 c. for each 15 gr. more.
Registration-fee for Switzerland 10 c, for other countries 25 c. —
Post-cards for Switzerland 5 c., for other countries 10 c. — Printed
matter under 15 gr. for Switzerland 2 c, for other countries 5 c.
Pott Of&ce Orders within Switzerland must not exceed 1000 fr. for
the larger, and 500 fr. for the smaller towns. The charge for an order not
exceeding 100 fr. is 20 c., for each additional 100 fr. 10 c. more. Money-
orders for foreign countries 24 c. for every 100 fr. (with a minimum
fee of 60 c).
The Telegraph System of Switzerland is very complete, the
aggregate length of the wires being at present greater than in any
her country in proportion to the population. There are now
X. RAILWAYS. XXV
upwards of 1000 offices; those in the large towns are open from
6 or 7 a.m. till 11 or 10 p.m. according to tlie season. The tariff
for a telegram within Switzerland is 30 c, together with 2^2 c.
for each word; to Germany 50c., and 12^2 c* for each word;
to England 40 c. for each word ; to France 7 c. for each word for tele-
grams to the frontier, or 12^2 c. for each word for greater distances.
The rates for other foreign telegrams may be ascertained at the
offices. For telegrams handed in at railway-stations an additional
charge of 50 c. is made.
Telegrams may be handed in at any post-office, from which, if
not itself a telegraph office, they are transmitted without delay to
the nearest. In such cases the fee for the telegram is paid by af-
fixing a stamp of the requisite value (1/2 fr. or upwards, according
to the number of words).
X. Eailways.
The Carriages in German Switzerland are constructed on the
American plan, generally holding 72 passengers, and furnished
at eacli end with steps of easy access. Through each carriage, and
indeed through the whole train, runs a passage, on each side of
which the seats are disposed. This arrangement enables the trav-
eller to change his seat at pleasure, and to see the scenery to ad-
vantage, unless the carriage is very full. Tickets are examined and
collected in the carriages.
The carriages in French Switzerland are of the ordinary con-
struction. Passengers' tickets are checked as they leave the waiting-
room before starting, and given up at the ^Sortie^ on their arrival.
Luggage must be booked and paid for after the traveller has
obtained his own ticket, but small portmanteaus and travelling-bags
may generally be taken into the carriage without objection. Trav-
ellers with through-tickets from the German to the Swiss railways,
or vice versa, should see that their luggage is safe on reaching the
frontier (Bale, Geneva, Neuchlltel, Friedrichshafen, Lindau, Ror-
chach, Romanshorn, etc.). Where a frontier has to be crossed,
ordinary luggage should never be sent by goods-train.
Circular Tickets and return-tickets are issued at reduced rates
on most of the Swiss lines, and also by the German and French
railways to Switzerland. Information regarding them will be found
in the time-tables; but they are apt to hamper the traveller's
movements and to deprive him of the independence essential to
enjoyment.
XI. History. Statisties.
xxvi
The limits of this work preclude more than a brief historical sketch of
the interesting country the traveller is now visiting, whose inhahitanta have
ever been noted for their spirit of freedom and independence. It is ne-
cessary for a moment to carry the reader back to the conquest of Helvetia
by the Roman legions. Under the Roman sway Helvetia enjoyed a flourish-
ing trade, which covered the land with cities and villages. A trace of
that period exists in the Romanic dialect, which is still spoken in some
parts of Switzerland.
Switzerland is believed to have been first peopled by the RTiaeti, who
were driven from the plains to the mountains by the HelveHi^ a Celtic
tribe. The latter were conquered by the Momant, B. C. 68, and the Rhseti
were subdued in B. G. 15. The Romans made good military roads over
the Great St. Bernard (p. 2T7) to Bale, and over the Julier (p. 370),
Septimer (p. 370), and Spliigen (p. 361) to Bregenz (p. 406), and thence to
Bale. The chief settlements were Aventicum (Avenches, p. 196) in the Can-
ton of Vaud, Vindonista (Windisch, p. 17) at the confluence of the Aare,
Reuss, and Limmat, Augusta Ravraeorum (Augst, p. 16) near Bale, and
Curia Rhaetorum (Coire, p. 333) in the Grisons. E. Switzerland as far as
Pfyn (ad fine*) in Thurgau, and P/yn (p. 285) in the Upper Valais, belonged
to the province of Rhsetia, while W. Switzerland formed part of Gaul.
The name Helvetii had become extinct even before the time of Constantine.
About A.D. 400 a great irruption of barbarians swept through the
Seaceful valleys of the Alps, and Huns, Burgundians, Alemannij and
strogoths in succession settled in different parts of the country. The
Alemanni occupied the whole of N. Switzerland, where German is now
spoken ; the Burgundians the W. part, where French is spoken ; and the
Ostrogoths S. Switzerland, where Italian and Romansch are now spoken.
These races were gradually subdued by the Franks, who, however, did not
take possession of the country themselves, but governed it by their officers.
During this period Christianity was introduced, the monasteries of Disentis
(p. 350), St. Oallen (p. 47),' Einsiedeln (p. 92), and BeromUnster were
founded J and dukes and counts were appointed as vicegerents of the
Franconian kings.
After the dissolution of the great Franconian empire, the eastern half
of Switzerland, the boundary of which extended from KgUsau over the
AJbis to Lucerne and the Grimsel, was united with the duchy of Aleman-
nta, or Swabia., and the western part with the kingdom of Burgundy (912).
After the downfall of the latter (1032) the Oerman Emperors took posses-
sion of the country, and governed it by their vicegerents the dukes of
Zeehringen (p. 130), who were perpetually at enmity with the Burgundian
nobles and therefore favoured the inhabitants of the towns, and were
themselves the founders of several new towns, such as Freiburg, Bern,
and Burgdorf.
As the power of the emperors declined, and the nobles, spiritual and
temporal, became more ambitious of independence, and more eager to fill
their coffers at the expense of their neighbours, ttie Swiss towns and the
few country-people who had succeeded in preserving their freedom from
serfdom were compelled to consult their safety by entering into treaties
with the feudal lords of the soil. Thus the inhabitants of Zurich placed
themselves under the protection of the then unimportant (kntnts of Haps-
burg, with whom the ' Three Cantons ' of Uri, Schwyz, and Unterwalden
were also allied. In 1231 and 1240 letters of independence were granted
by Emperor Frederick II. to Uri and Schwyz, and after Count Rudolph of
Hapsburg had become emperor he confirmed the privileges of the former
in 1274, while Schwyz and Unterwalden still continued subject to the
Hapsburg supremacy.
After the emperor's death in 1291 the Forest Cantons formed their
first league for mutual safety and the protection of their liberty against
the growing power of the House of Hapsburg. Rudolph's son Albert in
particular endeavoured to rear the limited rights he enjoyed in these dis-
tricts into absolute sovereignty, and to incorporate them with his empire.
XI. HISTORY. xxvii
The aoicieikt cantooB therefore embraced the cause of the rival monarch
Adolph of SiUiOM^ who confirmed their privileges. Victory, however,
favoured Albert, who again deprived the cantons of their privileges, but
does not appear to have treated them with much severity. To this period
belongs the romantic but unfounded tradition of William Tell, i
After tike assassination of Albert by John of Swabia in 1306, Emperor
ffenry VII.,, who was also an opponent of the Hapsburgers, conferred a
charter of independence on the Forest Cantons. The House of Hapsburg
regarded this as an infringement of their rights, and sent a powerful
army .against these cantons, which after the death of Henry had declared
their adherence to Lewis the Bavarian, the opponent of Frederick the
Handsome. This army was destroyed at the Morgarten (p. 94) in 1315.
Subsequent attempts to subject the country to the supremacy of the
House of Hapsburg were frustrated by the victories of the Swiss at 8em-
pach (p. 19) in 1%6, at N^eh (p. 68) in 1388, and at the Stoss (p. 53)
in 1405.
In the Burgundian parts of the country too the nobility were jealous
of the increasing importance of the towns, and therefore attempted to con-
quer Bern, but were defeated by the citizens at Laupen (p. 192) in 1339.
In 1354 a confederacy was formed by eight independent districts and
towns, which soon became powerful enough to assume the offensive, and
at length actually wrested the hereditary domain of Hapsburg from the
dukes of Austria, who tried in vain to recover it.
Sven CbarU* the Bold, Duke of Burgundy, the mightiest prince of his
time, was defeated by the Swiss at the three battles of Grandson (1476,
p. 191), Moral (1476, p. 197), and Nancy, while at an earlier period a large
body of irregular French and other troops, which had been made over to
Austria by l^e King of France, sustained a severe check from the con-
federates at St. Jacob on the Birs (1444, p. 8).
In the Swabian war (1499) the bravery and unity of the Swiss achieved
another triumph in the victory of Dornoch (p. 8). At that period their
independence of the emperor was formally recognised, but they continued
nominally attached to the empire down to 1648.
The last-named victory formed a fitting termination to a successful
career of two centuries, the most glorious in the history of Switzerland.
At the beginning of the 16th century a period of decline set in. The
enormous booty captured in the Burgundian war had begotten a taste for
wealth and luxury, the demoralising practice of serving as mercenary
troops in foreign lands began to prevail, and a foundation was laid for
the reproachful proverb, 'Pas d''argent, pas de Sulsses!^
The cause of the Reformation under the auspices of Zwingli was
zealously embraced by a large proportion of the population of Switzerland
abcittt the beginning of the loth century; but the bitter jealousies thus
sown between the Roman Catholic and the Reformed Cantons were
attended with most disastrous consequences, and in the civil wars which
ensued bloody battles were fought at Kaj^el (p. 69) in 1531, at VUlmersfen
in 1666, and during the Toggenburg war (p. 56) in 1712.
Traces of unflinching bravery and of a noble spirit of self-sacrifice in
the cause of conscience are observable in individual instances even at the
close of fhe 18th century, as ezampled by the affairs of Rothenthurm
(p. §4) and Stam (p. 113), but the national vigour was gone. The resist-
t The legend of the national hero of Svritzerland, as well as the story
of the expulsion of the Austrian bailiffs in 1308, is destitute of historicsJ
foundation. No trace of such a person is to be found in the work of John
of Winterthur (Vitoduranus , 1349) or that of Conrad Justinger of Bern
(1^30), the earliest Swiss historians. Mention is made of him for the first
time in the Samer Chronik of 1470, and the myth was subsequently em-
bellished by ^gidius Tschudi of Glarus (d. 15£2), and still more by Jo-
hann v. Mitller (d. 1809), while Schiller's famous play has finally secured
to the hero a world-wide celebrity. Similar traditions are met with among
various northern nations, such as the Danes and Icelanders.
iiylll XI. STATISTICS.
tincc of iadlvidmili to tbe IniHiDn or the French
nd the BelteHon RipiiAKc wu foaoded on
u of the Mtlop. Id 1H03 Napoleon resto
rs,
of the tflvnlnti™ of lalj, 1891), w
vmi throughon
Area and PopoIstioiL
^cording to the decennial eeneos of UtDei
I. NORTHEEN SWITZERLAND.
1. B&le • 2
2. From Bale to Bienne and Bern through the Munsterthal 8
From Del^mont to Porrentray, 9. — Ascent of the
WeissenBtein from Mtinster, 9. — From B^vilard over
the Montos to Renchenette. The Pierre Pertuis, 10.
3. From Bale to Bienne by Olten and Soleure 11
From Liestal to Waldenburg ; Langenbmck, 11. — The
Schafmatt ; Eptingen ; the Frohhurg, 12.— The Neu- Wart-
burg; Lostorf ^ Fridau.lS. — From Soleure to theWeissen-
stein, 14. — From Soleure to Burgdorf ; to Lyse, 15.
4. From Bide to Bern by Herzogenbuchsee 15
From Herzogenbuchsee to Soleure, 16. — From Burg-
dorf to Langnau, 16.
5. From Bile to Zurich 16
Konigsfelden ; Vindonissa, 17. — From Brugg to Wohlen,
18. — From Wettingen to Oerlikon, 18.
6. From Bale to Lucerne 19
From Zofingen to Suhr, 19.
7. From Olten to Aarau, Brugg, and Waldshut .... 20
From Aarau to M uri and B^thkreus; Bremgarten, 20. —
From Aarau to Baden, 20. — The Habsburg, 21.
8. From Bile to Schaffhausen and Constance 21
From SingentoEtzweilen, 23. — The Island of Reichenau,
23. — Steamboat from Schafifhansen to Constance, 23.
9. The Falls of the Rhine 24
10. From Fri«drichshafen to Constance 26
The Mainau, 29.
1 1 . From Rorschach to Constance and Winterthur (Ziirich) 29
12. From Schaffhausen to Zurich 30
13. Zurich and the Uetliberg 31
14. From Ziirich to Coire. Lakes of Zurich and Walenatadt 37
1. Steamboat on the Lake of Zurich 38
The Pfannenstiel, 38. — Hiitten. Gottschallenberg, 39. — .
11. Railway on the Left (S.) Bank from Zurich to Zie-
gelbriicke (Glarus) 40
The Waggithal, 40.
iii. Railway from Zurich to Rapperswyl , Weseu , and
Sargans 40
The Bachtel, 41 — Excursions from Wesen : the Biberli-
kopf ; Amden; the Speer, 42. — From Hiililehom over
the Kerenzenberg to Mollis, 43. — The Murgthal; the
Roththor; the Widerstein-Furkel and Murgsee-Furkel,
Miirtschenstock, 43. — From Walenstadt over the Kiiser-
ruck to Wildhaus in the Toggenburg, 44. — The Alvier.
From Mels through the Weisstannen-Thal and Kalfeuser-
Thal to Vattls, 44.
16. From Zurich to Romanshorn and Friedrichshafen . . 44
From Oerlikon to Dielsdorf t Regensberg, 44. — From
Winterthur to Waldshut, 45. — From Winterthur to
Kuti(TdssthalBailway),46.— From Sulgen to Gossan, 46.
Babdsksb, Switzerland. 12th Edition. 1
2 Route t.
BALE.
Hotels.
16. From Zurich to St. Gallen, Rorschach, and Lindau .
From Winkeln to Appenzell, 46. — Ezcarsions from St.
Oallen ^ the Freudenberg ; Untere and Obere Waid, etc., 47.
— Excursions from Rorschach; the Martinstobel ; the
Mottelischloss ; Walzenhausen ; Meldegg; Horn, 48. —
Exursions from Lindau, 49.
17. The Canton of Appenzell
Chapel of St. Anthony; the Kaien, Vogelisegg, Gabris, and
Stoss, 51-53. — From the Weissbad over the Hohe Kasten
to the Valley of the Rhine, 53. — The Wildkirchli and
Ebenalp, 54. — The Sentis, 54. — From the Weissbad
to Wildhaus, 55. — Altmann ; Teufen ; Frolichsegg, 56.
18. From Wyl through the Toggenburg to Buchs in the
Rhine Valley
Ascent of the Speer from Ebnat or Nesslan, 67. — From
Nesslau over the Krazern Paas to Urnasch, 57.
19. From Zurich to Glarus and Linththal
The Rautispitz, Obersee, and Scheye, 58. — The Schild;
Fronalpstock, 59. — The Oberblegisee, Saasberg, and
Karpfstock, 60. — Excursions from Stachelberg, 60. — The
Pantenbriicke, Uelialp, Upper Sandalp, andTodi, etc., 61.
— From Linththal over the Eistenpass to Uanz, 61.
20. From Stachelberg to Altdorf. Klausen
21. From Schwyz to Glarus over the Pragel
From the Muotathal to Altdorf over the Kinsig Pass,
and to Stachelberg by the Bisithal, 63, 64. — The Glar-
nisch, 64.
22. From Glarus to Coire through the Sernf-Thal ....
From Elm over the Segnes Pass to Films; over the
Panixer Pass or the Sether Furka to Ilanz, 66. — From
Elm over the Ramin Pass to Weisstannen, 66. — From
Elm over the Sardooa Pass, the Scheibe Pass, or the
Muttenthaler Grat to Vattis, 66. — From Elm over the
Richetli Pass to Linththal, 66.
46
50
56
58
62
63
65
1. B&le.
Railway Stations. The Baden Station (PI. D, 1), at Klein-Basel,
is on the right bank of the Rhine. The Baden time is 4 min. in advance
of the Swiss. — The Alsace and the Swiss lines both start from the Cbn-
TKAL Station (PI. H, I, 6, 7) in Bale, on the S. side of the town. These
two stations are connected by a junction-line, crossing the river (a journey
of 10 min. ; fare 1 fr., 70 c., or'oOc). Omnibus^ see p. 3.
Hotels. "^Tbois Rois (Plan a; D, 4), on the Rhine, R., L., & A. 4V3-6,
B. 11/2, D. 4V2-5 fr. At the Central Station , *H6tel Euleb (PI. b ; H, 6),
R., L., & A. 4-4V2< I>. 4-5, omnibus 1 fr. ; opposite to it, *H6tel Suisse (PI. c;
H, 6), R. £ A. 3V2-4, D. 4-5 fr. ; Hotel Juba; *H6tel Victobia (PI. p;
-V H, 6); HdTEL National (PI. q ; H, 6j; Hotel Hofeb (PI. o; H, 6}, R. & A.
3-3V2, B. IVifr.? Faucon (PI. d; G, 6), corner of the Elisabethen-Str. —
In the town: *Schiff (PI. k; F, 5), R. & A. 2V3-3, B. 1 fr.; Sauvaqe (PL e;
E, 5); CiGOGNE (PI. f ; D, 5), R.& A. 2Vv, D- 3 fr. ; Hotel Centbal, oppoaite
the post-office; *Coubonnk (PI. g; D, 4), Bellevue (PI. h; D, 4), both on
the Rhine; *Post (PL i; B, 5). —At Klein-Basel: * Hotel Kbafft (PL m;
D, 3), R. & A. 3, B. 11/4, I>. 3fr.; Croix Blanche (PL 1; D, 3), R. & A.
2V2.3 fr., both on the Rhine; Basleb Hop (PL n; D, 2), R. A A. 3, B.
IV* fr. ; Hotel Schbibdeb, near the Baden Station, moderate, R. 2, B. 1 fr.
Bridges, BALE. 2, Route. 3
Cafes. Trots Rats, on the Rhine; Kunsihalle; du Thidtre; Stadt-
Casino; KleMbasler Oesellscha/tshaus, by the old bridge, with a terrace. —
Confectioners (who sell ^Basler Leckerli'). Wire, near the bridge ; Kiss-
Ung-Kuentzy, Freie-Str. 19^ Bvrckhardt, Steigsr, both in the Schneider-
gasse.
Bestanrants. At the Central station. Xibiger^ Barfiisser-Platz. Bier-
halle zutn Parsifal^ Freie-Str. 49 (Munich beer). BUhler's Bierhalle, Steinen
Suburb (handsome locality; in summer, Biihler's Biergarten, in the Ster-
nengasslein). Wine at the VeUlinerhalU, Freie-Str. and at the Sehiitzen-
haus (good stained glass). — In Klein-Basel: Burgvogtei, with a 'Bierhalle^
and garden ; Warteck Brewery, near the Baden station ; Oeschgei; Riehenthor-
Str. 27. — JSommer- Casino (PI. 18; I, 4), near the St. Jacob Monument (p. 8),
with a pleasant garden, music on Mon., Wed., and Frid. at 7, on Sun. 6
p.m. (50 c.) ; concerts also at the Erlen-Park, 1^4 M. from the town, and
in the Zoological Garden (p. 8).
Omnibus (Stadtonmibus) between the Central and Baden Stations, by
the Alte Briicke. — Cabs. For 1/4 hr., 1-2 persons, 80 C. ; second V4 hr. 60,
each additional ^4 hr. 50 c. ; 3-4 pers. Ifr. 20 c., the second V^ ^' ^ each
additional V4 hr. 70 c. From one of the stations into the town, 1-2 pers.
1 fr. 20 c. , 3-4 pers. 1 fr. 80 c. ; from one station to the other 1-2 pers. 1 1/21
S4 pers. 2V2 fr*) each box 20c. extra. At night (10 p.m. to 6 a.m.) 3fr.
for the first Vz hr. and 1 fr. for each additional V4 hr. , and 10 c. per V^
hr. for lights.
Post and Telegraph Offices in the Freie - Str. (PI. 16; £ 5); at the rail-
way-stations; in the Johannes suburb; and at the Schiitzengraben.
Bafhs in the Rhine (PI. E, F, 4), entered from the Pfalz (p. 5); 1 fr.
Warm baths: Stauffer-Bchmid, Martinsgasse; jSTt^rmtmof, Leonhard'Str. ; Zwn
Bntnnen, Fischmarkt.
Zoological Garden (p. 8) ; admission Vs fr.
Fietnre Gallery 0/2 fr.) in the new Kvnsthalle on the Steinenberg (p. 7);
another at Lang''s, Freie-Str.
English Church Service in a chapel at the Hotel des Trois Rois.
B&Ie, or Basel (870'), the capital of the half-canton Bale-Ville
(pop. about 70,000), is first mentioned in the year 374 under the
name of BasUea, having probably been founded by the Roman armies,
when they fell back on the Rhine, near the old Colonia Augusta Rau~
Tacorum, which had been established in B. 0. 27 by L. Munatius
Plancus (now Baselaugst, 5 M. to the E. , see p. 16). In the
middle ages BMe was a free town of the Empire, and it has been
a member of the Swiss Confederation since 1501.
The principal town lies on the left bank of the Rhine, and is
connected with Klein - Basel by three Bridges. The wooden Altt
Brucke, 200 yds. in length, is partly supported by stone piers. In
the middle of the bridge rise a chapel of the 16th cent, and a modem
triangular obelisk, with a thermometer, a barometer, and weather-
cock. Above the old bridge the river is crossed by the new Wett"
stein Bridge (PI. F, 3), which commands a fine view. Below the
old bridge is the Johanniter Bridge (PI. B, 4), completed in 1882.
^The ^Hfinster (PI. 9; E, F, 4), a picturesque edifice of red
sandstone, with its two conspicuous towers, was formerly the
Cathedral of the see of Bale. The bishopric, founded by Charle-
magne , was transferred , in consequence of the puritanical out-
rages, to Porrentruy (p. 9) in 1529, and afterwards to Soleure
fp. 13). The Miinster was built by the Emp. Henry II. in 1010-
1019, and was restored in 1185 after a fire. In 1356 the old build-
1*
4 Route 1. BALE. Munaier,
ing was almost demoliehed by an earthquake, bnt it was afterwards
rebuilt in tbe Gothic style. The Towers y which are 218' in height,
were not completed till 1500. Of the original structure the N. portal,
or 8t. Oallua gateway, still exists, and is adorned with statues of the
Evangelists, John the Baptist, and other saints; over the church-door
is a relief representing the wise and foolish virgins ; at the sides in
six niches are the 'works of charity, and at the top Christ on the
Judgment-seat and the angels at the last day. The W. Front under
the towers, with the principal portal and two side-entrances, be-
longs to the 14th cent. ; on the front are represented the Yirgin and
Child, and under them the Emp. Henry, the founder and bene-
factor of the church, with the Empress Kunigunde ; on the two side-
entrances are two knights, on the left St. George and the Dragon,
and on the right St. Martin. The exterior is undergoing thorough
restoration.
The laterior is open to the public in summer on Wed., 2-4 p.m.;
at other times 60 c. (medieeval collection and council-hall 50 c. extra, see
below). The sacristan lives in the Miinsterplatz No. 13, but in summer he
is generally to be found in the church (knock). The church, which is 71
yds. long and 35V2 yds. wide, was skilfully restored in 1852-56, and is
embellished with good modern stained glass. The beautiful rood-loft of 1381
serves to support the large new organ. The pulpit dates from 1486. The aisles
and choir contain old monuments and tombstones built into the walls. In the
K. aisle is a Gothic sacerdotal chair of the 14th cent. ; we also observe a
curious relief of the 11th cent, (martjrrdom of St. Vincent). The font is of
1465; on the pillar opposite is the tombstone of the learned Erasmus of
Rotterdam (d. 1536), with a long Latin inscription. In the retro-choir are
monuments of the Empress Anna (d. 1281), consort of Rudolph of Hapsburg
and mother of Albert I. , and of her youngest son Charles. The crypt
is now occupied by the stoves used in heating the church. — In; 1431
the great Oouneil began to sit in the Munster. It consisted of upwards of
500 clergymen, including many great dignitaries, whose ostensible task
was a ^reformation of the Church in head and members'-, but after having
disputed for years without any result, and having been excommunicated
by Pope Eugene IV., it was at last dissolved in 1448.
The "^Mediaeval Oollection, which occupies the three floors of the
building adjoining the church, is very interesting (open to the public.
Sun. , 10.30 to 1 ; at other times adm. Vs fr. ; illustrated catalogue in
French and German, 1/2 fr., recommended to other than hasty visitors, as
the attendants cannot give full information). Ground Floob. Vestibule:
antiquities of the flint period ; architectural fragments chiefly from church-
es of Bale ; and the ^L(iUenki)nig\ a curious piece of mechanism not older
than the end of the 17th cent., formerly on the exterior of the tower (re-
moved in 1839) of the Rhine bridge. The later story that this head was
erected in derision of the Austrians to whom Klein Basel was pledged
in 1375-92 ia a mere myth. — The Waffenhalle^ or armoury, con-
tains the chief curiosities of the arsenal of Bale; in the middle are
interesting cannon of the 15th and 16th cent. ; to the right, by the win-
dow, a suit of armour supposed to have belonged to Charles the Bold. —
A winding staircase ascends to the rooms of the First Floor. In the
Conciliums-Saal, or council-hall, the Council of Bale held their sittings in
1431-48. Along the walls are arranged numerous casts of mouldings from
churches of B≤ also eighteen fragments of the famous * Death Danee of
B&le, a fresco which once adorned the wall of the Dominican burial-
ground (taken down in 1805), painted early in the 15th cent. On a long
table in the centre are models of buildings in Bale and of castles in the
environs. — We next enter the Saal filr Pro/anarctUteefur , which con-
Museum, BALE. 1. Route, 5
teins panels, tiles i stone slabs, and other fragments from houses in B&le
and other parts of Switzerland. — In the following room , the Saal far
EauiaUerthiimer, is a collection of mediaeval furniture , tapestry, porce-
lain, glass, jewel- caskets , and other articles for domestic use. Beyond
these is the Dining -room of the Gountellor Lueat Iselin, of Bale ^ with
rich panelling in the choicest woods, and dating from 1607. The adjoining
Gothic Room of 1460 contains a large bedstead of 1510 and other Gothic
farniture. — Two vaulted rooms on this floor are devoted to the illu-
stration of the history of Handicrafts: in tbe first are fine specimens of
iron work, bindings of books, goldsmiths^ models, etc.; in the second,
the ecclesiastical treasures remaining after the division of the canton
in 1833, large guild- vessels , gold ornaments from churches of B&le, frag-
ments of stoves , and a collection of tiles. — (Halfway up to the next
floor is a kind of gallery containing a collection of Domestic and Kitchen
Utensils^ chiefly from mediseval Bale. — Second Floor. The Saal fiir
MueikaUeche Alterthilmer contains interesting specimens of old instruments,
showing in particular the development of the piano and wooden wind-
instruments. — In the Saal fiir kircMicfie Alterthiimer are altars , carved
wood, bronzes, and an enamelled * Votive Tablet presented by Duchess
Isabella of Burgundy in 1433. — The Saal fiir Coetiime is chiefly devoted
to Bale costumes of the 17th and 18th cent. — Lastly, the Saal fUr Reehte-
und StaatsalterthUmer contains the weights and measures of Bale of the
14th-18th centuries.
On the S. side of the choir are extensive *Cloi8teTB| constructed
in the 15th cent., restored in 1869-73, and used until recently as
family burial-places. They extend to the Pf<Uz^ a terrace behind the
Mtinster, planted with chestnuts, and affording a pleasing survey of
the green river and the distant hills of the Black Forest, the
outliers of the Jura, and (in clear weather) of the Vosges. Behind
the Miinster, on the "W, side of the cloisters, is a statue of (Ecolam-
padiusj and In the neighbourhood (Baumleingasse 18) is the
house of Froben and Erasmus.
-V'ln the Augustinergasse, which descends from the Munsterplatz
towards the N.W. to the bridge, is the *Mu»eum (PI. 14; F, 4;
open on Sun., 10.15 to 12.30, and in summer on Wed., 2-4 o'clock;
engravings, Thurs. and Sat., 2-5; at other times fee llr.), con-
taining a natural history collection and (on the upper floor) a pic-
tare-gallery and collection of antiquities.
<^ The Picture Gallery is chiefly interesting on account of its collection
of paintings and drawings by the younger Holbein (b. at Augsburg 1497,
d. in London 1543), who lived at Bale in 1615-26 and 1628-32 and here
produced several of his best works. In the vestibule (left) a cast of the
Uon-gate at Mycenae. The Staibcase is adorned with frescos of Gsea,
Flora , and Apollo by BUcklin^ cartoons by Cornelius, Schnorr, and Steinle,
Rtained glass, and a statue of Jason with the golden fleece, in marble, by
Schldth. — Ants-Roou. 2-14. Old and modern copies of Holbein's oblit-
erated frescos in the Council Chamber; painted organ-shutters from the
Mimster, by Holbein; pictures by old masters of Bale (Hans Bock;
Bier.Hess) and other places in Switzerland; 142. Thys, Pietlt. — Dka-
WIK08. Among them are 78 by H. Holbein the Younger : 7. Family of Sir Tho-
mas More (presented to Erasmus) ; 34. Combats of foot-soldiers ; *35. Samuel
and Saul ; 49-64. Feminine costumes of Bale. — There are also 100 by Swiss
and Upper Rhenish masters: 80-82. Ambr. Holbein; 85-101. H. Holbein the
Elder; 127-130. M. Sehongauer; 131-134. H. BaldungOrien; 135-137. A. Dnrer;
140. H. SebaldBeham; 145. H Schaufelin; then, 155. Raphael, God command-
ing l^oah to bnild the ark, the design for a painting on the dome of the
Stanza deir Eliodoro in the Vatican ; 156. Titian, Landscape with the flight
6 Route 1. BALE. Museum,
to Egypt. In a glass-case the original of "Hotbdn'i Praise of Folly. — Pic-
tures. 1. HoibBin the Elder, Deatli of the Virgin, ff. Holbein the Younger,
5. Last Slipper (earlier picture) ',7,8. Schoolmaster's signboard of 1516 ;
"13. Portrait of Boniface Amerbach : 14. The burgomaster Jacob Meyer and
his wife; 16,^18. Erasmus; 19. The dead body of Christ, of startling
realism; *20. Wife and children of the painter; *21. Last Supper; *122.
Lais Corinthiaca, the portrait of a lady of the noble family of Offenburg ;
23. The same lady as Venus with Cupid ; **26. The Passion in eight se-
parate scenes, formerly in the Rathhaus ; 34. Portrait of the printer Froben ;
d5. A London merchant. Ambrote Holbein, 37. Christ as the Man of Sorrows ;
88, 39. Portraits of boys. H. Fries (of Freiburg), 46-61. From the history
of Mary ; 52-54. Two wings of an altar of St. John from Freiburg. 42-45a.
N. M. DeuUch; 58. M. QrHnewald, Resurrection; 61-72. School ofM.Schon-
ganer, including 65. Pius Joachim. H. Baldung Orien, *"76, 76. Pictures
with figures of Death-, 77. Crucifixion; 78. Nativity. 81, 84. Luccu Cranach
the Elder; "^97. Old Cologne School, Three angels on a gold ground;
104. Lower Oerrnan Master, Coronation of the Virgin; * 106-113. Freneh-
Burgundian Mcuter, Prototype representations; 126. Honthoret, The flea; 127.
JHrk van Sandvoort, Songstress and flute-player D. Teniers the Younger^
134. Musicians ; *135. Rustic interior; 241. Smoker. 182. Teniers the Elder,
Village tavern; 148. H. Aldegrever, The Anabaptist propliet D. Joris of
Delft; *152. Rigaud, Portrait of M. Schaub; 168, 169. Brouwer , Portrait-
studies; 183. W. van Mieria, Fishmonger; 185. A. vcm de Velde, (3ow8 and
sheep; 188. K. du Jardin, Trumpeter on horseback; 186. Berghem, Cattle
crossing a ford; 190. Wouwennanj Horseman at a canal-lock -, 191. 8. Ruyg-
dael. Landscape with figures; 193. P. Neefs, Church-interior; 194. Rom-
bouts. Forest scene; 195, 196. Rugendas, Battle-pieces; 197. Hobbema,
Landscape; 198. Velvet Brueghel, Landscape with numerous figures; Mo-
rales, 204. Mary and St. John, IK)5. Christ bearing the Cross; 2i7. Ific.Poussin,
Bacchus and his train ; 231. Ph. de Champaigne, Portrait of an ecclesiastic ;
*'232. Mabuse, Adoration of the Magi; 234. Koning , St. Jerome; 235.
/. van de Meer van Haarlem, Horsemen in a forest; 236. Paul Bril, St.
Francis; 243. W. van Aelst, Breakfast; 249, 250. Egbert van Heemskerk,
Tavern scenes; 254. Dirk van Bergen, Sheep and cattle; Jos. Koch, 274.
Macbeth and the witches, 275-277. Roman landscapes. 285. Overheck, Death
of St. Joseph; 286. Bchnorr, *Domine quo vadis?""; 295. Ztnengauer, Sun-
set ; 296. Feuerbach, Idyl ; 297. Lessing, Forest landscape. — Modern Swiss
Masters. 334. Veillon, Venice; Barzaghi-Cattaneo , 336. Tasso, 390. Lady
Performing music, *391. Fiesco; Vatttier, *336. Rustic debtor compelled
y a rich neighbour and his agent to sell his property; ^336 a. The invo-
luntary confession. 339-344. /. Frey , Italian and Spanish landscapes.
SlUckelberg, *346. Festival of St. Mary in the Sabine Mts.; *347. Mario-
nettes; *348. The painter's children. *349. Aur. Robert, Interior of St.
Mark's at Venice; F. Roller, 350. Cows watering, *351. Horses on a road
through a dale; Bdcklin, 353. Diana hunting, ^355. Penitent Magdalene,
356. Centaurs, *356a. Sacred grove. *357. Diday, Scene on the Lake of
Brienz ; Oleyre, "'SSS. Pentheus pursued by the Maenads, 359. *Charmeuse';
360-*362. Steffan^ Landscapes-, Leop. Robert, 3G7. Wounded bandit and his
wife, 367a. Bandits' wives in flight; ZUnd, *371. Harvest, *372. Forest land-
scape; Calame, *374. The Schreckhorn and Wetterhorn, *375. Forest
scene; 376. Bocion, The harbour of Ouchy; 377. Bosshardt, Federal re-
presentatives entering Bale in 1501 to administer the Federal oath to the
town; E. Oirardet., 378. Fortune teller; 379. Village barber; 380. Snow-
balling. 382. A. Corrodi, Boating party; 386. Bosshardt, Hans von Hall-
wyl at the battle of Morat; 388. RuedisuhU, Marshy landscape; 389.
Staebli. River scene; 392. Schioegler, Furrier; Diethelm Meyer, 393, *393a.
Girls from the Haslithal and from the Valais ; 397. Grob , Portrait of
Pestaloz/i; Anker, *399. Quack, *400. Children's breakfast; no number,
Sttickelberg, Earthquake at Bale; ''■'Bdcklin, Naiads; Eugene Qirardet, Arabs
drinking coffee. — Sculptures in the picture-gallery: Antique heads of
Apollo and Hercules; /m^o/, Rebecca ; Kissling, Runner; <SfcAZ#eM, Psyche
''marble statues). — Modern Drawings (fine old inlaid council-table). 2-23.
less, Schraudolph, and /. C. Koch, Cartoons for the frescos in St. Boniface
Raihhaus. BALE. 1. Route. 7
at Hnnicli; cartoons by Overbed (26-36), Sehtoind (36 40), GenelU (41, 43),
J. C. Koch (59, 60), Cornelius (61, 5*2; drawings for the Last Judgment), etc.
Collection of Antiquities. In the first room are casts ^ coins and
medals; a handsome antique cabinet. In the next room are vases, mo-
saica, and other antiquities, chiefly found near Angst (p. 3). On the
ground-floor a room containing Mexican, Chinese, and Japanese antiqui-
ties; in the following room are various objects from lake-dwellings.
The UniverBity Library in the same building (open 2-4) con-
tains about 200,000 vols, and 5000 MSS. ; among the latter are the
transactions of the Council, writings of Luther, Melanchthon, etc.
The University (350 students) , founded in 1459 by Pius II. , was
once famous for its mathematicians Bernouillij Merian^ and Euler.
The hall contains upwards of 100 portraits of scholars of Bale,
Including the cosmographer Sehcistian Miinster (d. 1552), the re-
formers (Ecolampadius and Orynaeus, and the theologians, De Wette
(d. 1849) and Alex. Vinet (d. 1847). In front of the aula are ten mar-
hie busts, by Schloth, of professors of Bale of the present century.
The BathhauB (PI. 17; D, 4, 5), or Town Hall, in the Market-
place, was erected in 1508 in the 'Burgundian' (late-Gothic) style,
and restored in 1826. The Council Hall In the Interior is adorned
-with carvings and stained glass. The court contains a Statue of
Munatius Plancus (p. 3), erected here in 1580.
The old fortifications have been almost entirely removed , and
their site converted into promenades ; but the handsome Spalen-
Thor (D, 6), on the W. side of the town , erected about the year
14(X), the St. Albansthor on the S. , and the St. Johannsthor on
the N. , have been restored.
Other MEDTfiVAii Stbuctubbs deserving mention are the late-Go-
thic Fishmarket Fountain, of the 15th cent. , restored in 1851 ; the
Spalen Fountain with a bagpiper, supposed to have been designed
by Holbein ; the Eehhaus Fountain, in the Riehenthor-Strasse (the
pillars of the last , which had become injured by time , have been
replaced by faithful copies) ; and the Roman archway in the old St.
Alhan's Monastery (PI. 5; G, 2, 3). — ■ The BarfaBser-Church (PI.
4; E, 5), dating from the beginning of the 14th cent., with its
very lofty choir, is now used as a store-house. — The Church of
St. Martin (PI. 8 ; D, 4), was restored in 1851, when the choir was
skilfully adapted as a Protestant place of worship. — The large Gothic
(Rom. Cath.) Church of St. Clara (PI. 25 ; D, 2, 3) at Klein-Basel
has been recently restored.
Foremost among the modern buildings of Bale is the Gothic
*St. EliBahethenkirche (PI. 6; G, 5), erected by Hr. Merian-
Burckhardt (d. 1858). The interior is worth seeing; observe the
fine stained glass from Munich. — Near it, on the Steinenberg, is
the KnuBthalle (built by Stehlln ; adm. ^2 ^^0' containing a collec-
tion of modem pictures and sculptures. Connected with it are a
large garden and a restaurant , which is adorned with good mural
paintings by Briinner. On the staircase are frescos by Stiickelberg.
Between the St. Elisabethenkirche and the Kunsthalle is the new
8 Route 2. ARLESHEIM. From BdU
Sculpturhalle, containing plaster-casts. Next the Kunsthalle is the
Theatre (PI. 23 a), opposite which is the Musiksaal^ hoth designed
hy Stehlin. To the N. of the Petersplatz (PI. C, 6) is the Bemonl-
lianmn , belonging to the university, an edifice for the study of
physics, chemistry, and astronomy. The Yesaliannm, to the N.,
is the new University institute for anatomy and physiology.
The Zoological Garden , adjoining the 'Nachtigallenwaldchen^
outside the site of the Steinenthor, and ahout 3/4 M. from the Central
Station (adm. 50c.-lfr.), contains admirable examples of Swiss
(mountain goats) and other animals. Concerts are frequently given
on Sun. afternoons.
The Konument of Bt. Jacob (PI. 3; 1,4), near the Sommer-Caaino
(p. 3), by F. Sehldth , completed in 1872 , commemorates the heroism and
death of 1300 Confederates who opposed the Armagnac invaders under
the Danphin (afterwards Louis XI.) in 1444. Above is Helvetia in armour,
with a wreath ; on the pedestal are four falling warriors in marble. In-
scription: ^Our souls to God, our bodies to the enemy !\
The Kisaionary Inatitutiona of Bale are deservedly in high repute.
The Mission House (PI. 13 ; G, 7) educates missionaries for the promulgation
of Christianity. It contains an interesting ethnographical collection from
the E. Indies and W. Africa, and two large modds of the Temple area
and Great Mosque at Jerusalem. — In the neighbourhood are several
charitable institutions: the Deaf and Dumb Asylum at Riehen^ 3 M. to
the N.E., the missionary institution on the Cfi-ischona (1722^. 4 M. to the E.,
with splendid view , and the Reformatory at Beuggen , 12 M. to the £.
(p. 21). — An excellent Society for the Promotion of the Public Welfare^
which has existed at Bale for more than a century, has a very extensive
sphere of operation.
2. From B&le to Bienne and Bern through the
Mtinsterthal.
77 M. Railway (Jura^ Ba-n & Lucerne Line) to Bienne (56 M.) in 3-4
hrs.; fares 11 fr. 30, 9fr. 90, 5fr. 65 c. ; from Bienne to Bern (21 M.) in l-U/i
hr. -, fares 3 fr. 75, 2 fr. 65, 1 fr. 90 c. [Railway from Bienne to l^euchatel
(20 M.) in 8/4 -IV* br.; to Geneva (102 M.) in 5V4-7V4 brs.5 from Bale to
Geneva, express in 7*/4 hrs. Through-carriages to Geneva and St. Maurice.l
The Kiinsterfhal, watered by the Birs^ is the grandest and most in-
teresting in the whole Jura range. It consists of a succession of defiles
and narrow gorges, whose banks are clothed with pines, while the broader
basins are enlivened with meadows, villages, mills, and factories. This
valley , which belongs to the ancient bishopric of Bale , afforded the Ro-
mans a route between Aventieum (Avenches, see p. 196), the most important
town of Helvetia, and Augusta Rauracorum (Augst, see p. 16), one of
their advanced posts on the Rhine. The railway through this beautiful
valley forms a most interesting approach from Bale to Western Switzerland.
B6lt (870'), see p. 2. Leaving tbe Central Station, the train
soon diverges from the Central Line (p. 11) to the right, passes the
cemetery on the right, and before (3 M.) Mbnchenstein crosses the
Birs. On the hills to the left are several ruined castles. — 5 M.
Vomach'Arlesheim, On a wooded hill, ^/^ M. to the W., near
Arlesheim (Ochs 5 Rosli), rises Schlosa Birseck, once a ch^tean of the
bishops of Bale, with a pleasant park, interesting grottoes, and a
hermitage. (Apply to the gardener at the foot of the hill.)
to Bienne. MUNSTBR. ?. Route. 9
The train follows the right hank of the Birs. 7 M. Aesch (Sonne),
a yillage on the left hank. The valley contracts. The train passes
through a tunnel under the modernised chateau of Angenatein, and
enters the canton of Bern. On a hill to the right is the pictur-
esque ruin of Pfeffingen. On the right, before (974 M.) Orellingen
(•Bar), are several factories. The train passes through a deep cut-
ting and crosses the Birs twice; the valley then expands. Schloss
Zwingen , on the right , was the seat of the episcopal governors of
the district, down to the first French revolution.
14 M. Lanfen (1155'; Sonne) lies at the confluence of the Liitzel
and Birs. The train traverses a narrow, wooded valley. Beyond
[16 M.) Bdrschwyl it passes through two tunnels and crosses the
Birs twice. I872 M. Liesberg. 22^/2 M. Saugem, Fr. Soyhihres
(H6tel de la Gare), where the language changes from German to
French. On the right is the ruined castle of that name. At the rocky
egress of the valley, before Its expansion into a broad plain, lies
Bellerive, on the left, now a manufactory. On a hill to the right
is the ruin of Vorburg.
24 M. Delimont, Ger. Delaherg (1430'; ^Ours; *Faucon; Hdtel
Cuenat , at the station ; *Rail. Restaurant') is an old town (3007
inhab.) on the Some^ with a chUteau of the former Bishops of Bale.
Fbom Del^ont to Pokeentbuy (18 M.) railway in V4-IV* br. (fares
3 fr. 55, 2 fr. 50, 1 fr. 80 c). The line traverses the grassy valley of the
Some. Stations Courtetelle ^ Oour/aivre, Batsecourt, and (TVzM.) Oloveliery
Ger. JAetingen. Beyond a tunnel, 3200 yds. in length, and two others, we
reach (11 M.) 8t. Ursanne (""Deux Clefs) , a picturesque old town in the
romantic valley of the Doubs (p. 188), with a ruined chateau on a lofty
rock. Another tunnel pierces the Mont Terrible. Stat. Courgenay. Then
(18 M.) Forrentruy, Ger. Pruntrut (1457' ^ ^Ours; *Cheval Blanc) ^ a con-
siderable town (5614 inhab.) with an old chateau, once the residence of
the Bishops of Bale. — The line leads hence to Delle^ the French frontier-
station, Belfort and Pari* (express from Bale to Paris in OVi hrs.). a
The line traverses the valley towards the S.E. , and beyond
(26 Y2 ^O Chwrrendlm, Ger. Rennendorf, enters the *ManBt6rthal,
Fr. Vol Moutievj a wild, romantic ravine of the Birs, flanked with
huge limestone rocks. The line is carried through these ' Gorges
de Moutier' by means of a series of tunnels, galleries, and viaducts.
(A walk from Roche to Miinster and Court is recommended.) In
the middle of this defile are the glass-houses and forges of Roche
(1570'), IV4 M. beyond which, on the opposite (left) bank, is the
station of the same name (1650' ; *Rd88lij moderate). The train
crosses the Birs by a lofty bridge and then , at the mouth of the
defile, the Raushach.
82 M. MfuiBter, Fr. Mouiier (1752'; 2133 inhab.; Couronne;
Cerf; Cheval,' *H6tel de la Oare, moderate), a thriving village
with a new Protestant church, prettily situated in a green dale.
AaCKNT OF THE WBISSSNSTBIN FROM HONSTEB (81/2 hrS.*, COmp. p. 14).
About 10 min. to the 17.E. of Miinster, or 5 min. from the station, at the
mouth of the gorge of Roche (see above) a road (diligence to St. Joseph
daily at 2.55 p.m. in 1 hr.) ascends to the right to (2 M.) Oran/elden (Fr.
Oremdvaly 2010') and (8/4 M.) Crimine (2066'-, Croix). It passes the watch-
10 RouU2. BIENNE. From BdU
manufactory of M. Perret and ascends the gorge of the Raws, to (2 M.) St.
Joseph am Oansbrunnen , at the N. base of the Weissenstein , the top of
which (4220') may easily be reached hence by the road in 1V2-2 hrs.
The footpath diverging near the beginning of the road is shorter. (Car-
riage from Hiinster to the Weissenstein 25 fr. ^ there and back 30 fr.; fronti
St. Joseph, 15 fr.)
The line traverses another wild and very picturesque gorge,
the ^Roches de Court, high above the Birs, and beyond a long
tunnel reaches (351/2 M.) Court (2201'; Oura).
From Court, or better from Bivilard (see below), a steep path crosses
the Kontoz (4370') to (3 hrs.) Reuchenette (see below ^ guide advisable).
View similar to that from the Weissenstein.
We traverse pleasant grassy dales, pass SorvUier, Malleray'-
Bivilard, and Eteonvilitr, and reach —
421/2 M. Tavaxmes , Ger. Dachsfelden (2497' ; *Couronne), a
large village at the source of the Birs (branch-line in 35 min. to
Tramelan). The train ascends slightly, and passes under the
Pierre Pertuis by means of a tunnel (1500 yds).
The Pierre Pertuis (petra perlusa ; 2596')i through which the high-road
passes, is a natural opening in the rock, 30-40* high, and more than
once fortified in time of war. It bears a restored Roman inscription on
the 1^. side, which cannot be earlier than A.D. 161. This defile, the
highest point between Tavannes and Sonceboz, marked the limit of the
Helvetian province, and afterwards that of the bishoprics of Avenches,
Lausanne, and Bale.
The train descends the slope to the right, describes a sharp curve
between Somheval and Corgimpni, and crosses the Suze (or Scheussy
47 M. Sonoeboz (2152'; Couronne; Rail. Restaurant), the junc-
tion for Chauxdefonds (see p. 187).
The train crosses the Suze, and passes through a tunnel under
the S.W. spur of the Montoz (see above). The stream is crossed
several times in its beautiful wooded valley. 50 M. La Beuttej
53 M. Reuchenette (iQ4:2' ; Truite). The line now suddenly turns
towards the S. , and enters the narrow passage which the Suze has
forced through the last heights of the Jura range. Four tunnels be-
tween this point and Bienne. On the right beyond the first tunnel
is a fall of the Suze, and on the hill is the ruined chateau of Rond'
chdtel. Two more tunnels. Pleasant view of the green valley of
Orvin to the right. Beyond another long tunnel the train crosses
the deep and wild ravine of the Suze (Taubenlock)hy a lofty bridge,
and quits the ravine. "We now obtain a striking *yiew of the rich
plains of Bienne, with the whole of the Alpine chain from the
mountains of Unterwalden to Mont Blanc in the distance. We then
descend vine-clad slopes to —
56 M. Bienne, Ger. Biel (1444'; *Bielerhof, at the station,
D. 3 fr. ; *Hot, Suisse ; Couronne; Croix; *Rail. Restaurant), an an-
cient and thriving town (11,623 Inhab.). The * Museum Schwab,
founded by Col. Schwab, and presented by him to the town, is
an interesting collection of antiquities from the lake- villages,
Celtic and Roman weapons, implements, coins, etc. (open onSund.
and Thurs., 2-4; at other times on application). The beautiful
to Bienne, LIESTAL. 3, Route. 1 1
ayenueB enclosing the town stretch to the N. end of the Lake of
Bienne, as far as (1 M.) Nidau, with its old chUeau, near the
efflux of the Zihl or ThiHe (p. 184). Tramway from the station into
the town, to Nidan and to the N. to Bozingen fFr. Boujean). '
A WiBB-RoPE Railwat (station 7 min. to the N.W. of the railway
station at Bienne) ascends in 20 min. to the Kurhaus of '^Hagglingen, Fr.
ifoeoltn (2960* -, E., L., & A. 4, D. 4, pens. 8-il fr.), splendidly situated on
the slopes of the Jura, U/4 hr. above Bienne, and noted for its fine air.
Large wooded grounds, and fine view of the Alps from the Sentis to
Jfont Blanc. — Ascent of the Chaueral (by road, 4Vs hrs.), see p. 184.
From Bienne to Soleure^ see p. 16; to Neuch&tel and Qentvc^ see B. 57.
The Railway fboh Bibnne to Bebn crosses the Zihl near
(58V2M.) Brugg, and the Aare before (61 M.) Busswyl.
63 M. Lyss (Hirsch; Restaur. Ritter) is the junction of the lines
to Payemc to the S.(p.l97) and to iSfoicure to the N.(p. 15). — 64V2M.
Suberg ; 68 M. Sehupfen; 71 M. Munehen-Buchsee (*H6t. Kaech;
Krone ; Bar), the seat of the cantonal seminary, which was trans-
ferred in 1885 to the former institute of £. ▼. Fellenberg aXHofwyl,
situated 12 min. to the £. On the right, the Bernese Alps from the
Jungfrau to the Balmhorn become visible , but soon disappear. —
73 M. ZoUikofen, a station on the Central Line (Bale-Uerzogen-
buchsee-Bem). Thence to (77 M.) Bern, see p. 16.
3. From B&le to Bienne by Olten and Soleore.
63 M. Railway in 3-4 hrs. (fares 10 fr. 90, 7 fr. 00, 6 fr. 45 c).
B&U^ see p. 2. The train crosses the Birs. 3 M. Muttenz. 5 M.
Pratteln, the junction for Zurich (p. 16). On the Rhine, 1^2 M. to
the N. W. (branch-railway in 10 min.) are the well-equipped salt-
baths of Schweizerhalle.
The line leaves the valley of the Rhine , enters the Jura Mts.
and follows the left bank of the Ergolz. Near (71/2 M.) Niedet'
Sehonthal, on a hill to the right, lies Frenkendorf (1120'; Wil-
der Mann ; Lowe), a pretty summer resort. Near Liestal, on the
left, is the large prison of Canton Basel-Land, and beyond it the
Cantonal Hospital.
9M. Liestal (1033'; 4679 inh.; *Falke, with salt -baths and
extensive grounds , pens, from 4 fr. ; Schliissel ; Eng'el ; Sonne'),
prettily situated on the Ergolz , is the seat of government of the
half-canton of Basel-Land, or Bale-Campagne. In the council-hall
is shown the cup of Charles the Bold, found in his tent after the
battle of Nancy (1477). The collection of coins contains Roman
and Swiss specimens. — Bien^nberg (Kurhaus , with salt-baths),
IV2M. to the N.W. of Liestal, is a pleasant summer resort, and
about 1 M. beyond it is the Schauenburger Bad (1730').
To Waldenbubo, 8VyH , narrow gauge railway in 1 hr., through the
pretty Frenkenthal. 2Vs H. Bad Bubendorf, with mineral and salt baths.
(The Tillage with its ruined castle lies 1 M. to the right.) 4 M. Lcunpehberg;
fi'/s M. H9l$Uin^ in a narrow part of the valley, with manufactories of
12 RouU3. OLTEN. Wrom BdU
silk ribbon. Passing Niederdor/ and Gberdor/^ we reach (S^lt M.) Waldea-
burg (1713' ; L^ice), a little town with a ruined castle and a pretty church.
A good road leads hence (diligence 4 times daily in 50 min.) to (3 M.)
Langenbmek i*Kfirkauty pens. O'S fr., with its d^pendanee Ochten; Pens.
Bider^ etc.), situated on the pass of the Obere Hattenatein (SSSd'), a quiet
and pleasant hill sanatorium. — A high-road leads from Langenbruck to
the S.E. to Fridau and (5 M.) Egerkingtn (p. 13) ^ another to the S.W. to
Holderhankf Balsthal, and through the JHfM, a dedle formerly fortified, to
(IOV2 M.) Oensingen (p. 13).
11 M. Lauaen. Before (13 M.) Sissaeh (1233' ; Lowe), a tliriT-
ing yillage , we pass (r.) the small ch&teau and park of Ebenrain.
Fine view from the Sissacher Fluh (23989, 1 hr. to the N.
FsoM S18BAGH ovBB THB ScHAPMATT TO Aasau (13V« M.). By diligence
to Oltingen in 2 hrs., via (2V4 M.) GtlUrkinden (1371'^ *R6ssli), a manu-
facturing village; thence through a picturesque valley to the Hanggieisen
waterfall; (IV2 M.) Tecknau (IW); to (IV2 M.) Wenilingen (ISeC) a steep
ascent; (IV2 H.) Oltingen (19^'; Ochs), with a mineral spring. The path
ascending the (Vshr.) ^Bchafinatt (2516') diverges close to the 'Ochs\ and
is easily found, being provided with finger-po^ts. The summit commands
an extensive panorama of the Jura and the Alps, which we enjoy until we
reach a point overlooking the deep valley of Rohr. Taming to tike left
here, we reach the upper part of a meadow, at the foot of which {}/% hr.
from the top) lies a chalet and whey-cure establishment. From this point
we enjoy a view of the environs of the Lake of Lucerne, the Rigi, Pi-
latus, etc., framed by the mountains between which we stand. From the
chalet to Aarau (p. 20) in I74 hr., past the LawreneetiXHid (p. 20), situated
in a side valley to the left, and Erlisbach.
To the S. of Sissach lies (7 M. ; diligence twice daily In IVi hr.
via Zunzgen^ Tenniken, and Diegten) Eptingen or Ruch-Eptingen (1873';
KurhauSj with saline and mineral baths; pens. 4-5 fr.), situated in a
narrow valley at the base of the Hauenttein (footpath to Lat^feljingen^ see
below, Ihr.; to Langenbruck^ see above, IV4 hr.).
The train quits the Ergolzthal, turns to the S. into the narrow
and picturesque Homburger ThcU^ and beyond (15^2 M.) Som-
merau passes through two tunnels. I91/2 M. Laufelfingen (2008' ;
Sonne), at the foot of the Hauenstein,
On the summit of the Hauenstein, ascended in % hr. from stat. Laufel-
fingen via Reisen and Erlimoos (each of which has a Kurhaws\ is situated
the *Frohbnrg (2772')) a Kurhaus, commanding a beautiful view of the
Alps, from the Sentis to Mont Blanc ; in the foreground the Wartbnrg (see
p. 13) and the Wiggerthal with the railway to Lucerne ; on the right rises
Pilatus, on the left the Rigi. About 10 min. from the inn are some scanty
ruins of a castle destroyed by an earthquake. Descent by Triiribaeh in 1 hr.
to Olten.
The train now enters the Hauenstein Tunnel, 2970 yds. long,
during the construction of which in 1857 sixty -three workmen
were buried by a fall of earth. Beyond it we observe on a hill to
the right the small chiteau of Neu-Wartburg (see p. 13), to the
right of which, farther on, the Bernese Alps gradually become vis-
ible from the Wetterhorn to the Doldenhorn. The train descends
by a long curve to the Aare^ crosses it, and ascends on the right
bank to the station of —
241/2 M. Olten. — ^ScHWBiZBBHOP; Hotel WisB, moderate; Halb-
MOMD; ''Rail. Restaurant. Carriages generally changed here. Detention of
Vi-Vs hour. On leaving the waiting-rooms the trains for Bale and Zurich
are to the <«/<, those to Lucerne and Bern to the right. Pocketpicking
ot uncommon here.
toBienne, SOLEUBE. 3.RouU, 13
Often (1296'; 3979 inh.), the second town in the canton of Solenre,
prettily situated on the Aare, is the junction of the lines to Aarau
and Bragg (R. 7), to Aarburg and Lnceme (R. 6), to Bern (R. 4),
and to Solenre and Nench&tel (see helow). The Parish Church con-
tains an Ascension by Disteli, and the Capuchin Church a Madonna
by Deschwanden. Extensiye railway work-shops and large shoe-
mannfactories here.
To the S.E. of Olten, on an isolated hill on the right bank of the Aare,
rises the Neu-Wartburg or SiUischloss (2237'; ^Restaurani)^ a small eh&teau
recently restored. *View similar to that from the Frohburg (see p. 12). Good
paths from Olten and from Aarburg to the top in >/4 hr.
About iVs ^' to the "S.E. of Olten (diligence twice daily in summer
in 11/4 hr.) are the sulphur-baths of Lostorf CKurJtaus^ moderate, 'pens.^
5 fir.), prettily situated at the foot of the Jura. On a cliff above (V4 hr.)
rises the small chateau of Wartenfeh (2060'), with a fine view.
Beyond Olten the train diverges to the right from the Bern and
Lnceme line (p. 15), crosses the Aare, and traverses the plain
watered by the JDunnemy at the base of the Jura. To the left the
view of the Alps from the Glarnisch to the Altels is gradually un-
folded. 26 M. Olten-Hammer; 271/2 M. Wangen; 29 M. Hagen-
dorf; 31 M. EgerMngen (Kreuz).
Diligence twice daily in 40 min. to fridan (2300' \ *KurhauSy pens.
5Vs-6 fr.), situated on the slope of the Jura, flnd well fitted up. Beautiful
view of the Alps from Sentis to Hont Blanc. Shady grounds and extensive
wood-walks. The road also leads to Langenbruck, 3 M. farther (see p. 12 ;
diligence in summer daily).
32 M. ObcrbuchsiUn } 36 M. Oensingen (diligence twice daily
in 13/4 hr. to Langenhruek j p. 12); 37 M. Niederbipp (to the right
of which is Oberbippy with a handsome modern chltean). At
(41 M.) Wangen the train crosses the Aare. Beyond Dcitingen and
Luterbach we obtain a view of Solenre with the minster of St. Ursns ;
to the right are the Rothe and the Kurhans on the Weissenstein
(p. 14). The train crosses the Orosae Emme, not far from its con-
fluence with the Aare. — 47 M. Neu-Solothum,
Solenre. — Soleure has two Bailway Stations : Ifeu-Solothurn on
the right bank of the Aare (V2M. from the new Aare bridge), and Alt-
Solothum on the left bank, to the W. of the town. The Ursus-Mun-
ster is reached from either in 8 min., but for a visit to the town and the
Weissenstein the station of Alt-Solothum is on the whole more favour-
ably situated.
Hotels. ^B^ONK, B., L., A A. SV^i 1^* 3 ^^^'i ^Bajboetzi, near the Alt-
Solothnm station, also a restaurant; Adleb; Hissch} Thubm; Ebeuz, B.
2, B. 1 fr.
lUstanrant of '^Bargeizi, with a few bedrooms , Va ^< ^o ^be N.E.,
near ihe 'Hermitage'* (p. 14), with a garden and pleasant view.
Soleure, or Solothum (1424' ; 7668 inh.), on the Aare, a quiet
place, the capital of Canton Soleure, was incorporated with the
Confederation in 1481, and claims to be the oldest town on this side
of the Alps next to Treves. (^ In Celtia nihil est Solodoro antiquius,
unis exceptis TreviriSy quorum ego dicta soror\ is the inscription
on the clock- tower,) It was the Roman Salodurumj once a flourishing
settlement. The old ramparts have been almost entirely removed.
The St. Unsus-MtJNSTBK, or cathedral of the Bishopric of Bale
14 RouU3. WEISSENSTEIN. Erom B^
(p. 3), was bnilt in 1762-73 on the site of an edifice of 1050, in the
form of a cross, surmounted with a dome and two half-domes. A
flight of 33 steps leads to the fa^de. One of the adjoining foun-
tains is adorned with a statue of Moses striking the rock, the other
with a figure of Gideon wringing the dew from the fleece.
The *A£8BNAL, not far from the cathedral, contains the arms
of the cantonal militia, and on the first floor a collection of ancient
armour, halberds, pikes, and standards, taken by the Confederates
from the Austrians, Burgundians, and others. Among the curiosi-
ties is a mitrailleuse of the 15th cent., adjoining which is an auto-
maton. A large plastic group on the upper floor represents the re-
conciliation of the Confederates effected at the Diet of Stans by
Nicholas von der Fliie (p. 1 18), from a drawing by Disteli (d. 1844).
The oldest building in Soleure is the CiiOCE Towsb, recently
restored, which is said to have been erected in the 4th century B.C.,
but perhaps dates from the Merovingian period. The figures and
mechanism of the clock are similar to those at Bern (p. 130).
Under the arcades of the H6tel de ViUe, and in the Public
Library, are a few Roman antiquities. The Mtueum at the orphan-
age, near the bridge, contains a good collection of minerals and
fossils. The Kurtatverein possesses a •Virgin and Child, with SS.
Ursus and Martin of Tours, by Holbein ike Younger (1522).
The *"Weiggen8tein (4220'), 3 hours' walk or drive to the N. of So-
leure, is deservedly a very favourite point of view. It is reached either
hy the carriage-road, vi& Ldngendor/ and Oberdor/ (two-horse can*. 20 fr.
and fee), or (preferable) by the footpath (guide or porter 4-5 fr.), passing
the Einsiedelei (hermitage), and over the Btiegenlos and Resi. Taking the
latter, we pass the cathedral of St. Ours, and through the handsome Bale
gate, and then bear to the left towards the Villa Cartier with its two
towers, where we turn to the right. Farther on we enter the avenue to
the left, at the end of which we turn to the right towards the church
of St. NichoUu. Before reaching tiie church our route passes '*BargetzCs
Brewery (with a few bedrooms) and turns to the left into the *St. y«r«na-
thal (1 M. from Soleure), a narrow, cool, and shady ravine, Vz ^* i^
length. The path to the left, at the beginning of the gorge, leads to the
Wengistein (see below). At the other end of the valley are quarries of Port-
land limestone, where interesting fossils are found. The blocks of granite
on the neighbouring slopes are believed by geologists to have been
deposited by ancient Alpine glaciers. This gorge is now converted into
a promenade.
At the N. end of the ravine is the Hermitage of St. Yerena. On
the right is the hermit's dwelling; on the left is the rock-hewn chapel,
reached by a broad flight of steps, and containing a representation of the
holy sepulchre with life-size figures. We may now ascend by the chapel
to the crosses, pass near the large marble quarries, and traverse the wood
to the Wengistein, the view from which is similar to that from the Weissen-
stein, though on a smaller scale. A huge granite boulder here bears a Latin
inscription recording two memorable events in the history of Soleure.
From the hermitage to the base of the Jura, the footpath is uninter-
esting. From the restaurant beyond the hermitage we ascend to the left;
we then turn suddenly to the right beyond a house, passing a large cloven
erratic block. The path then descends through wood. In 10 min. we
reach the road, and follow it in the direction of the Weissenstein, passing
a finger-post, as far as (V4hi'>) ^ajfem (1837'; Inn), at the foot of the
Weissenstein. Above it we enter the wood to the left by a finger-post.
to Bienne, AARBURG. 4, Route, 15
ascend gradually, and then in steep zigzags to the (3/4 hr.) first bench, above
which there are several others. The path soon quits the wood and ascends an
abrupt rocky gully, partly by means of steps. Farther up, the ascent is through
wood, and more gradual. In */« hr. we regain the road above the Ne*aelboden
Alp (3447'), and following it, reach in '/z l^r. more the ^Kurhaus on the
Ywdere Weissenstein (R. & A. 3-3V2» B. l*/*, D. 81/2, S. 2, pension 8 fr.),
a sanatoriiun surrounded by woods and pastures, and much resorted to
in summer. The footpath, diverging to the right at the end of the wide
curve, 8 min. from the Nesselboden Alp, and then ascending to the left, is
a short-cut.
The *"ViEW is less picturesque, but more extensive than that from
the Bigi; and no spot commands a better view of the whole Alpine
chain from the Tyrol to Uont Blanc. To the E. are distinguished the
Sentis, the Glamisch, with the Kigi in the foreground, the Todi between
the Rigi and Pilatus, the lofty saddle of Titlis, and the Sustenhom;
beyond Soleure are the Wetterhom and Schreckhom, the Finsteraarhom,
Eiger, Monch, Jungfrau, Bltimlisalp, and Doldenhom -, then the Balmhorn,
Altels, Wildstrubel, Wildhom, Diablerets, and to the S.W. Mont Blanc.
To the S.W. glitter the lakes of Bienne, Morat, and Neuchatel; the Aaro
winds to the S. through the fertile plains, and the Grosse Emme flows into
it at the foot of the mountain.
Pleasant walk through the wood to the (10 min.) Kanzli (4093'). — The
^othe (4588'), */a hr. to the E. of the hotel, commands an extensive
view towards the K. and E. (Black Forest and Vosges), which are hid-
den from the Weissenstein , and affords a good survey of the pictur-
esque mountaina and valleys of the Jura. — Towards the W. the view
is concealed by the ^Haaenmatt (4746'), I'/z ^t^- from the hotel, whence
an uninterrupted panorama may be enjoyed. The path to it leads across the
pastures to the W. past (2 min.) the Hintere Weissenstein (4027' •, unpretending
Inn) and over the ridge to the end of the meadows, turns to the left, ascends
for 10 min. through woods, and skirts the crest of the hill for 10 min.
more in order to avoid the ravine descending from the Hasenmatt. A little
beyond ar path diverging to the chalet to the right, a narrow path, also
to the right, leads to the top in 25 min. more. (The easier route past
the chalet is V* ^J*- longer.) — We may now descend from the Hasen-
matt on the N. side, walk round its W. and S. slopes, pass Lommiswyl^
and regain Soleure, or the nearer station of Selzach (see below). MUnster
(p. 9) or Court (p. 10) in the Miinsterthal may be reached in 2 hrs. from
the Hasenmatt.
From Soleure to Herzogenbuehsee, see below.
Fboic S01.EUSB TO BuBODOBF (13 M.) by the Emmenthal railway in
1 hour. The principal station is (7 H.) ttzensdor/y the largest village in
the lower Emmenthal. Burgdorf, see p. 16.
Fkom Soleube to Ltss (15 M.) by railway, skirting the right bank of
the Aare, in 1-1 Va hour. About halfway is BUren (Krone) , a small town
with an old chateau. Lpss^ see p. 11.
The Bienne line crosses the Aare. 48 M. Alt-Solothum (p. 13) ;
then Selzachj Orenchenj Fr. Granges (Lowe), with watch-manu-
factories, and Pieterlen.
63 M. BiennCj see p. 10.
4. From Bftle to Bern by Herzogenbnchsee.
66 M. Railway in 3V4-48/4 hrs. (fares 10 fr. 60, 7 fr. 45, 5 fr. 30 c).
To (24V2M.) Olten see pp. 11, 12. The line skirts the right
bank of the Aare: to the left, the chUean of iVcw-Tfarf6urgf(p.l3).
Beyond a short tunnel under the Aarlurger Schloss we reach —
27 M. Aarbnrg (1286'; *Krone; Bar'), a thriving little town,
picturesquely situated on the Aare (junction for Lucerne , p. 19).
16 Route 4, BtJRGDORF.
The old castle on a hill, built In 1660, with casemates hewn in the
lock, is now a factory.
Stations Niederwyl ; Murgenthal^ where the Murg is crossed ;
Roggwyl / Langenthal (*L6we), a thriving village with busy timber-
trade; Biitiberg. 41 V2 M. HenogenbnchBee (1500' ; 2346 inhab. ;
*8onne; Rail. ReHaur.^ is a considerable place, with a loftily situ-
ated church.
To SoLSDBB (9 M.) railway in 40 min. Stations Inkwyl^ Subigen^ and
Derendingen. beyond which we cross the Orosse£mme to Neu-Solothumi^. 13).
Near (45^2 M.) Riedwyl we enter a grassy valley with wooded
slopes. Beyond (47 M.) Wynigen a long tunnel (1 min.). The train
now crosses the Grosae Emme to —
52 M. Burgrdorf, Fr. Berthoud (1863'; 6581 inh.; *Hdtel8
Ouggisberg and Bahnhof, both at the station; Stadthaus; Bar), a
busy town, picturesquely situated. The substantially built houses
are flanked with 'Lauben', or arcades, as at Bern. The public
buildings, the hospital, schools, orphanage, and public walks testify
to the wealth and taste of the community. In the chateau of
Burgdorf, in 1798, Pestalozzi established his famous school, which
in 1804 he removed to Yverdon (p. 191). Beautiful views from the
church and chateau ; finer from the *Lueg (2886'), 2 hrs. to the E,
Fbom Bdbgdokf to Langmau, 14 M., railway in 1 hr. The line as-
cends the fertile Emmenthal. Stat. Oberhurg and HasU'RUegsau. From
Buegsau, IVs M. to the X.E. of the railway , the RaehUberg (2768'^ fine
view of the Alps and the Jura) may be ascended in V2 b'* — 6 M.
LiUzelflUh-Qoldbach. Liitzelfliih was the home of the pastor Albert Bitzius
(d. 1854), a well known popular author under the name of Jeremias Oott-
helf. 71/2 H. Ramsey -Bumitwald (the latter lying 3 M. to the 11.)} 9 M.
Zollbritei; 14 M. Langnau (p. 124).
544/2 M. Lyssach'j 56 M. Hindelbank; 59 M. Schohbuhl, Beyond
(6IV2M.) ZoWi&o/(Cn (junction for Btenne, p. 11), on the right,
lies the Rutti, once the property of E. v. Fellenberg, and now
an agricultural institution. Farther on , the train crosses the iron
Worblaufen Bridge (below, to the right, the handsome bridge of
Tiefenau over the Aare , constructed in 1851) and then ascends
through a cutting to the Wyler Feld (drilling-ground), whence, to
the left, we obtain a magnificent ""Yiew of the Bernese Alps.
Farther on, to the right, is a new workmen's suburb (the *Lor-
raine'), beyond which we cross the Aare and enter the station of
Bern. The ^Bridge, 200 yds. long and 142' high, has a roadway
for ordinary traffic below the railway. — 66 M. Bern, see p. 129.
5. From B&le to Zurich.
56 M. Railway in 2V4-3V2 hrs. (fares 9 fr. 40, 6 fr. 60, 4 fr. 75 c).
To (5 M.) Pratteln, see p. 11. Near (7V2 M.) Aw^^t, pictur-
esquely situated, we cross the Ergolz and approach the Rhine. On
the left Kaiaeraugst , with salt-works and an old church. On the
opposite bank of the Ergolz is the hamlet of Baselaugst, on the
lite of the Roman Augusta Rauracorum (p. 3).
RHEINFELDEN. 5. BouU. 1 7
10V2M.Elieiiifeldeii (873'; pop. 2243 ; *not. des Salines, 5 min.
aboTe the town, pens. 4-6 fr. ; *H6U DieUchy zwr JCronc, with terrace
on the Rhine ; Zum Schutten ; Schiff; all with salt-baths ; *BeUe-
vue, on the right bank of the Rhine ; beer at the Salmen)^ an old
town, once strongly fortified, with walls and towers still partly pre-
served, was one of the outposts of the Holy Roman Empire. After
repeated sieges it was taken and razed to the ground by the French
in 1744. Since 1801 it has belonged to Switzerland. The foaming
river here dashes over the rocks, forming the HoUenhaken rapids.
Near the town are extensive salt-works on the Rhine.
We quit the Rhine, which here describes a bend to the N., pass
(13 M.) MohLin and (17 M.) Mump/" (Soolbad zur Sonne; Guntert),
and then return to the river for a ^hort distance. I8V2 ^* Stein
(990' ; L6we), connected by a covered bridge with Sackingen (p. 21).
We quit the Rhine, and at (201/2 M.) Eiken enter the pleasant
and fertile SisseLn-Thal. 23 M. FncA;(1120'; Adler; Engel), a con-
siderable village. The train ascends in a long curve to (26 M.) Hor-
nussen (1275'). 28V2 M. Effingen (1427'), the highest point on the
line. Then a tunnel, 2697 yds. long (4 min.), under the Bdtiberg
(1945 *), the Mons Vocetius of the Romans. 31 M. Botzenegg. The
train gradually descends ; magnificent view of the valley of the Aare
to the right, and , in clear weather, of the St. Gall, Glarus, and
Schwyz Alps. A short tunnel ; then a bridge over the Aare 259 yds.
long and 104' high.
36 M. Bnigg (1096' ; pop. 1435 ; ^Bossli; *Rothe8 Baua ; Station
Hotet), an antiquated little town, the junction for Aarau and Walds^
hut (R. 7), is best surveyed from the Aare bridge. The ^Schwane
ThumC dates from the later Roman Empire ; the upper part was
restored in the 15th century. A little to the N.E. three of the chief
Swiss rivers, the Aare^ the iJewss, and the Limmatj unite, falling
into the Rhine at Koblenz (p. 21), 8 M. to the N.
The ancient Abbey of Kdnigsfelden (8/4 M. to the S.E. of Brugg), for-
merly a convent of Minorites, was founded in ISIO by the Empress Eliza-
beth and her daughter, Queen Agnes of Hungary, on the spot where
Albert of Austria, husband of the former, had been murdered two years
before (1306) by John of Swabia and his accomplices. It was secularised in
1528; the building was converted into an hospital, and in 1872 into a lunatic
asylum. Of the old buildings there now remain the southern part only,
the church, and the dwelling of Queen Agnes, which last now contains a
collection of antiquities. Part of the church is now a magazine. The
stained-glass *Windows in the choir, of the 14th cent., opposite the door,
pourtray the history of Agnes, etc. On the walls are portraits of the chief
knights who fell at Sempach (painted soon after the battle, but now much
damaged).
On the tongue of land formedyby the Beuss and the Aare once stood
the conaiderable Helvetian town of v indonissa , which in the early centu-
ries of the Christian era was the headquarters of a Roman legion with its
Rhsetian cohorts, as is proved by inscriptions. The position of the amphi-
theatre is recognisable; and the well of the Abbey of Eonigsfelden is fed
by a Bubterranean Roman conduit. The town was destroyed in the 5th
cent., and there is now no trace of its extensive edifices; but the name
still survives in that of the village of Windisch , 1 M. to the E. of Brugg.
Babdskeb, Switzerland. 12th Edition. 2
18 BofUed, BADEN.
Fbom Bbuqo to Wohlbn, U H., railway in 40 min. -~3 M. Birr/eld;
5V2 M. Othmarsingen (junction for Wettingen and Aarau , p. 20) ; Vh M.
HendtOiiiim (p. 20); 8i/i H. Dottikon-Dintikon (p. 20); 11 H. Wohkn-rill-
mergen. (To Rothkreuty see p. 20.)
We CI088 the Beusi near its nnion ^th the Aare, and beyond
(38 M.) Turgi (junction for Waldshnt, see p. 21), reach the Limmat
and follow its l^t bank. The steep slopes are clad with vines.
42 M. Baden (1257'; pop. 3692; H6U Bahnhof; Waage) was
much visited even in Roman times for the sake of its mineral
springs (^Aquae Hdvetiae). In the reign of Nero, according to Taci«
tus (Hist. i. 67), it had all the appearance of a town (Hn modum
munieipii ex$1fuetus loeus, amoeno salubrium aquarum usu fre-
querui'). In the middle ages Baden was a fortress, and down to the
beginning of the 15th cent, was often the residence of the princes
of Hapsbnrg. The extensive ruins of the fortress Stein %u Baden
(1506^), destroyed in 1415 and again in 1712, rise above the town ;
the grounds command a fine view. ,
The hot mineral springs (98*^-126® Fahr.) lie in the narrow val-
ley of the Limmat (1190'), Dmin. to the N. of the station, t/2 M.
of the town. The ^Small Baths' (AdUr ; Engtl; Hirseh; Behstock;
8chwan)j on the right bank of the Limmat, are chiefly frequented
by the neighbouring peasantry; the ^Oreat Baths' (^Kuranstalt
Baden, a large hotel, united with the Staadhof ^ Hinterhof, pen-
sion 8-12 fr.; Schiff; *Verenahofy 8 fr. ; Blume; Schwehxrhof;
Freihof; Limmathof; Ochs; Bar) lie on the left bank. The Bahn-
hof-Str. leads from the station to the handsome Kuraaal , with its
pleasant grounds (^Restaurant ; music several times daily) and to
the Kuranstalt (see above). Good view from the lower Limmat-bridge.
From Baden to Aarau^ see p. 20; station on the S.W. side of the up-
per town, 1 M. from the baths.
We pass through a short tunnel under the Stein zu Baden (see
above), and cross the Limmat to (43 M.) Wettingen. The village lies
on the left, at the foot of the vine-clad Ldgemgebirge (2828') ; and
on the right, surrounded by the Limmat, are the extensive buildings
and gardens of the former Cistercian Abbey of Wettingen, now a
seminary for teachers. The church contains a sarcophagus in which
the remains of the Emp. Albert (see p. 17) reposed for 15 months
before their removal to Speyer. Stained- glass windows of the
16th and 17th cent., carved stalls of the 17th.
Fbom Wkttingkn to Oeblikon, ISVa M., railway in IV4 hr. — 2V2 M.
WUrenlos; 41/2 M. Oleljlngen-Daenikan (branch line by Bucks and ^ieder-
glatl to Baiach^ P- 46); 6 M. Buchs-Bcellikon; S\2 M. BegenscLor/-Walt , a
little to the E. of which is the small Katzensee with an "^Inn. lOVs M.
AffoUem; 121/2 M. Seebach; 13Vs M. Oerlikon (p. 44).
The train again crosses the deep bed of the Limmat and follows
its left bank to Zurich. 46 M. KiUwangen, 49 M. Dietikon (1286';
Lowe). It was here that Mass^na effected his famous passage of
the Limmat, 24th Sept., 1799, after which he repulsed the Russians
ud took Zurich. Schlieren and Altstetten (p. 68) are the last stations
SURS££. 6. Route. 19
before Zurich. To the right stretches the long ridge of the UetU with
its inn (p. 36). We now cross the 8ihl and enter the station of —
56 M. Zurich, see p. 31.
6. From Bdle to Lucerne.
59 M. Railway ( Central) in 2V5r4V2 hra. (fares 10 fp. 25, 7 fr. 15, 6 fr. 10 c).
To (27 M.) Aarburg, the Junction for Bern (B. 4), see p. 15.
The Lnceme line trarerses the broad grassy Wiggerthal,
30 M. Zofliig0n(143O'; pop. 4465; *i2oa««,- Ochs), a busy little
town. The library in the Bathhaus contains a collection of coins,
autographs of Swiss reformers, and the album of the society of
Swiss artists, founded in the year 1806, which formerly met at Zo«
flngen annually. On the branches of the fine old lime-trees near
the Schutzenhaus two 'ball-rooms' have been constructed. In the
BUichegut, near the town, are the remains of a Boman bath.
From Zofingen to Suhb, railway in 36 min. Stations Safentcpl, KUlli-
*«», Enifelden^ well-to-do villages, and (10 V2 M.) Sijthi\ the junction for
Aarau and Baden (p. 20).
33 M. Reiden, an old lodge of the knights of Malta, now a par-
sonage. 35 M. Dagmersellen ; 37 M. Nebikon (diligence daily in
3hrs., vitl WillUaUj to Wohlhausen in the £ntlebuch, p. 123). To
the light appear the Bernese Alps; in the centre the Jungfrau,
with the Monch and Eiger to the left of it and the Altels to the
right. Beyond (39^2 ^0 Wauwyl the little Mauensee, with its
island and castle, lie on the right.
4372 M. Simee (1690'; pop. 1994; Sorme; HirscK), an old
town, over whose gates the double eagle of Hapsburg is still
enthroned. The Town Hall recalls the Burgundian style.
Near (46 M.) Nottwyl we approach the Lake ofSempach (1663'),
5 M. long, IV2 ^1- broad, and abounding in fish. On a hill to the
right rises Schloss Wartensee. 4972 ^* Sempach. The small town
(Kreuz; Adler) lies I72M. to the N., on the S.E. bank of the lake.
Near Sempach Duke Leopold of Austria was signally defeated on
9th July, 1386, by the Swiss Confederates, owing, according to the
story, to the noble self-sacrifice of Arnold von Winkelried. The duke
himself and 263 of his knights were slain. A column surmounted
by a lion was erected beside the church in 1886 on the 500th anni-
versary of the victory.
A Chapei. (2064'), 1% M. to the N.E. of Sempach, marks the spot where
Leopold fell. His uncle, Duke Leopold, bad been defeated by the Swiss 71
years before at Morgarten (p. 94). The anniversary is still kept.
The train intersects plantations of firs. On the right appear the
precipitous cliffs and peaks of Pilatus ; on the left the long crest of
the Bigi; between these tower the snowy Alps (see p. 72); the
isolated mountain adjacent to Pilatus, rising above the lake, is the
Titlis. 53 M. Rothenburg ; 56 M. Emmenbrucke (H6t. Emmen-
brucke ; Bestaur. Seethal) , the junction of the 'Seethal' line to
Lenzburg (p. 126). The line crosses the JBmme, a little above
2*
20 Route?. AARAU.
its JTinction with the Reuss, and follows the latter, being joined
on the right by the Bern and Lucerne line (p. 12B), and on the left
by the Zurich and Lucerne line (p. 69). Lastly we pass through
a tunnel under the 'Gibraltar' (p. 74).
59 M. Lucerne, see p. 70.
7, From Olten to Waldshut vid Aaran and ftmgg.
32V2 M. Railway in 2 hrs. (fares 5 fr. 60, 4 fr., 3 fr. 85 c).
Olten J see p. 12. The train runs near the Aare as far as Brugg.
To the left rise the picturesque Jura Mts.
4 M. Danikon; 5*/2 M. Schonenwerth ; on the opposite bank of
the Aare is Schloss Gosgen with a ruined tower. A tunnel now
carries us under the loftily situated town of —
8V2 M. Aaran (1263'; pop. 5944 ; ♦ Wilder Mann ; Ochs ; *Ldwe;
*Rd98li), a manufacturing place, the capital of Canton Aargau,
on the Aare (which is crossed by a suspension-bridge, constructed
in 1850), and at the foot of the Jura, the slopes of which at places
are planted with the vine. The Qrossrathsgebaude contains fine
stained-glass (from the Abbey of Muri, 16th cent.) and the Can-
tonal Library (60,000 vols.). A house in the Rathhaus-Platz (No.
882) contains interesting antiquities from Vindonissa. The histo-
rian Heinrich Zschokke (d. 1848) once lived here ; his house, the
^Blumenhalde\ is passed on the pleasant walk across the suspen-
sion-bridge to the (1/4 hr.) *Alpenzeiger on the Hungerberg (Re-
staurant, with fine view, pens. 4 fr.).
Above the town, to the N., rises the Wasserjluh (285(y), and to the
N.E. the Oiselafluh (2540'), over which a path, with a view of the lakes of
Hallwyl and Baldegg, leads to the Baths of Schinznach. — Pleasant road
from Aarau by Erlishaeh (p. 12) to the (4 M.) '^Laurenzenbad^ prettily situat-
ed in the Jura. — About 6 M. to the W. of Aarau are the sulpbur-batha
of Loitorf (p. 13), the road to which passes Erlisbach and Siiisslingen.
— From Aaran to Sissach over the Scha/matt, see p. 12.
Fbom Aarau to Eothkrktjz, 29V2 M., railway in IV2-2 hrs. — 4 M.
Ruppersweil (see p. 21), 6 M. Lentburg (p. 126), S M. Hendschikon^ 10 M. DotU-
kon-Dintikon; 12V3 M. Wohlen-Villmergen, two considerable villages (junc-
tion for Brugg and Bale, p. 18). Branch-line hence to the E. to (0 M.)
Bremgarten (Drei Konige; Kreuz), a small town on the Reu8s,with a
ch&teau. — Then (16 M.) Bosteyl-Bilnzen and (18 M.) Kuri (1630'^ *L^e,
with salt and mineral baths ^ Adler), with the extensive buildings of a
Benedictine Abbey suppressed in 1841, now a school. Near the town is the
picturesque wooded Miihitobel with several waterfalls. On a hill, l^/g hr.
to the S.E., is ^Schloss Horben (2625'; pension 6-7 fr.), with extensive
wood-walks and a beautiful view. — 2O1/2 M. Benzeruchwyl ; 22V2 M. MUhlau^
on the Eeuss; 25 M. Sins; 27 M. Oberrilti. We then cross the Renss to
(291/2 M.) Rothkreuz, the junction of the St. Gotthard line (pp. 69, 95).
Fkou Aabad to Badbn, 17V2 M., railway in 1 hr. 20min. — 8 M.
Suhr (branch-line to Zoftngen^ p. 19); 5V2 M. Hunzemchwyl (on a hill to
the right the Staufberg). 7^/2 M. Lenzhurg (p. 126; 'Seethalbahn' to
Lucerne see R. 39), where the Aa is crossed. IOV2 M. Othmarsingen,
junction for Brugg and Wohlen (p. 18). Kear (11 M.) MUgemoyly on a
spur of the Kestenberg, to the left, rises Schloss Braunegg. The train
crosses the Reuss. 13V2 M. Mellingen; 15V2 M. Biittwyl; IV/t M. Baden
(p. 18; the station lies to the S.W. of the upper town, see p. 18).
SACKINGEN. 8. lioute. 21
On the left, beyond the Aare, at the foot of the Giselafluh, lies
Bibersiem , with an old castle , formerly a lodge of the knights of
St. John. 13 M. Ruppersweilj to the right the Staufberg and the
chateau of Lenzburg (p. 126). 15 M. WUdegg, with a castle of that
name, on the foot of the Wulpelaherg, has mineral springs contain-
ing iodine and bromine, the water of which is used for exportation
only. On a hill beyond the Aare rises ScMosa Wilderutem» I7Y2M.
Stat. Schinxnaeh lies halfway between the Tillage, on the left bank
of the Aare, and the (3 M.) Schinznacher Bad, or Habsburger Bad
(1203'), with sulphur -baths, chiefly frequented by French Yisitors
l*Kurhau8j with pretty grounds, pens. 4-7 fr.).
The baths lie at the foot of the Wulpelsberg (1686'), on the top of
which 0/2 hr.) are the ruins of the '^Hahsburg, the cradle of the imperial
family of Austria, erected by Count Radbod von Altenburg about 1020.
The tower, with walls 8* thick, is the only part now standing. The ad-
joining house is occupied by a farmer. The view embraces the entire
dominions of the ancient counts of Hapsburg, and the valleys of the Aare,
Reuas, and Limmat, bounded on the S. by the Alps.
1972 M. Bragg, and thence to (22 M.) Turgi, see p. 18.
The "Waldshut train crosses the Limmat near its influx into the
Aare, passes stat. Siggenthal^ and traverses the broad valley of the
Aare, which it approaches near (28 M.) Doitingtn-KUngnau. It then
describes a wide curve, passes through a tunnel, and crosses the
Rhine near (3072 M.) Koblenz^ above the mouth of the Aare.
321/2 M. Waldshut, see p. 22.
8. From B&le to Schaffhausen and Constance.
89 M. Baden Railway in Shrs. (to Schaflfhausen 9fr. 50, 6fr. 30, 4fT.
5c.^ to Constance 14 fr. 50, 9 fr. 65. 6 fr. 20c.). Neuhamen (p. 22) is the
station for the Falls of the Rhine (R. 9). Views to the right. — Stkamek
from SchafFhausen to Constance in S^/2-i hrs. (descending in 3 hrs.), pleas-
ant if time and weather permit (see p. 23; fares 3 fr., 1 fr. 95 c).
Bale (Baden station), see p. 2. We traverse a fertile plain
between the S. spurs of the Black Forest and the deep bed of the
Rhine. Stations Orenzach^ Wyhlen, Herihen, At (10 M.) Bci
Rheinfeldcn (Bahnhotel ; Bellevue), opposite Rheinfelden (p. 17),
the line approaches the Rhine^ which here dashes over rocks. The
left bank is precipitous and wooded.
12 M. Beuggen; to the right is a large building with many
windows, formerly a Teutonic lodge, now a reformatory and a semi-
nary for teachers. 15 M. Niederachworstadt. To the left of (17 M.)
Brennet (*Zum Wehrathal) opens the * Wehrathal (see Baedekers
Rhiru).
20 M. Saddngen (957'; Soolbad or Lowe; Schiltze^ a consider-
able town, has a large abbey-church with two towers. The castle
on the Khine, which figures in Scheffel's poem 'The Trumpeter of
Sacklngen' (Trompeter von Sackingen), is now the property of
Hr. Bally. Pretty grounds.
24 M. Murg (Zum Murgthal), where we cross the Murg. Op-
22 Routes. SCHAFFHAUSEN. From BdU
posite (251/2 M.) Lauferiburg (•Post), is the Swiss town of Lanfen-
borg (Rheinsoolbad), very picturesquely placed on the left bank,
with its lofty church, ruined castle, and old watchtowers. The
Rhine here forms a roaring cataract called the ^Laufen\
A long tunnel; then, beyond (29 M.) Albert'Hauenstein, a lofty
viaduct. At intervals we approach the river. Near (30 M.) Alhbruck
the Alb is crossed. 32 M. Dogem.
35 M. Waldihiit(1122'; H6t. Sehatzle, at the station; H6i.
Blumer; Rebstockj in the town), the largest of these small towns
on the Rhine, lies high above the river. — Railway to Turgi (for
Zurich), see above ; to Winterthur, see p. 45.
Beyond Waldshut a tunnel ; to the right, occasional glimpses of
the Alps. Before (38 M.) Thiengen (Krone) we cross the Sehluchty
and at (40^2 ^0 Oberlauchringen the Wutcuih. To the right, on a
wooded height, is the ruin of Kussenberg. Stations Griessen, Erzin-
gen, Wilchingen, Neunkirch^ Beringtn^ and {bl^j^ M.) Neuhausen^
the station for the Falls of the Rhine (p. 24).
59 M. Schaffhansen. — "^JTrone, in the town, R. 2V2 fr.; «£hein.
HoF,^ ^MuLLEB, and Ri£S£, at the station; *Post; Schwan; "^Tanne and
ScHiFP,- unpretending; HeHaur. Kronenhalle^ at the back of the Krone ;
**Rail. Restaurant. Omnibus from steamer to railway Va fi** Baths in the
Rhine, at the upper end of the town, 6-1 and 5-8, for ladies 2-5.
Schaffhausen (1414'^ pop. 11,795), the capital of the canton of
that name, still retains some of the features of a Swabian town of
the empire. It presents a most picturesque appearance when seen
from the village of Feuerthalerij on the left bank of the Rhine (two
bridges), or from the villa Charlottenfels (1384') on the right bank.
Hr. Moser (d. 1871), the late proprietor of the villa, originated the
imposiog • Waterworks in the Rhine (outside the Muhlenthor), by
means of which the factories of the town are supplied. with water-
power.
The Cathhpkal, once an abbey-church, an early-Romanesque
basilica, was erected in 1052-1101. Interior lately restored. The
Gothic cloisters are tolerably preserved. The inscription on the great
bell, cast in 1486: Vivos voco, mortuos plango, fulgura frango^
suggested Schiller's beautiful 'Lied von der Glocke'. The Gothic
Church of St. John contains an excellent new organ.
The castle of Munot (properly Unnoi), built in 1564-82 on the
site of an old Franconian watch-tower and recently restored, com-
mands the town. It consists of a round tower containing a winding
inclined plane instead of a staircase, with walls 16' thick (fine view
from the top).
The Imthurnbum, erected by Hr. Imthurn (d. 1881), a native
of Schaffhausen and a London banker , and presented to the town,
contains a theatre, a music-school, and exhibition rooms. Opposite,
in the Herrenacker, is the Museum^ with natural history specimens
and antiquities (including those found in the Kesslerloch near
Thayingen), and the town-library. In the neighbouring govern-
to Constance. SINOEN. 8. Route. 23
ment bnildings is preserved a large ony:s, dating from the Roman
imperial epoch, and representing a goddess of peace (adm. 11-12
gratis ; at other times 1 fr.).
In the pretty Fasenstaub Promenade is a hust of the Swiss his-
torian Johannes v. Muller (b. at Schafifhausen 1752; d. at Gassel,
1809). The lofty terrace towards the Rhine affords a fine view of
the rapids and the Alps.
From Schaffhausen to tlie Falls of the Rhine (2 M.), see p. 25. Cab
for one person to Keuhausen 1 fr.40c.; Schlosschen Worth, Hdt. Bellevue, or
Schweizerhof 2 fr. \ Laufen or Dachsen 4 fr. ; drive back, inclnding stay
of 1 hr., 1 fr. more. — Pretty walk through tlxe MUhlenthal to the Beekeh-
amtshiUU, with a view of the Alps, and back to Schaffhausen by the
Hoch^uh (another fine point of view) and the suburb of St^g (li/x hr. in all).
Otber fine views may be obtained from the Beringer Randen (belvedere),
4 H. to to the W. (to Beringen station in 20 min., see p. 22), and from
the Hohe Randen (29550, IOV2 H. to the K.W., reached vi& ffemmen$tadi
or Merithatuen.
The line now turns to the N.E. Stations Herblingenj Thayingen,
and Gottmadingen. — 71 M. Singen (* Krone; Hohgauer Hof;
Rail. Restaur,) J the junction for the Black Forest Railway. 1 hr. to
the N.W. rises the Hohentwiel (2244^, with grand ruins and a
noble Tiew (see Baeddcer^s 8. Oermany).
Fbom Singen to Etzweilen, railway in V* br. (1 fr. 30, 90, 65 c).
Stations Rielasingen^ Ramsen. We cross the Rhine between Hemisho/en and
Rheinllingen (p. 24). 9 M. Etzweilen (p. 90).
751/2 M. Rickelshauaen; 77^/2 M. JtiAolftOl (*8chiff; Krone), an
old town on the Untereee, with a Gothic church of 1436. Near it,,
on the lake, is Seehalde, formerly the villa of Victor v. Scheffel,
and containing a monument to the poet (d. 1886).
In the middle of this basin of the Lake of Constance lies the island
of Seichenan, in the dominions of Baden, 3 M. long, 1 M. wide, connected
with the £. shore by an embankment, >/4 ^' ii^ length. (Boat from
Allensbach to the island in 25 min.^ from Constance to the island by the
embankment 41/2 H.; the Schaffhausen steamers also touch at Beichenau
twice daily.) The Benedictine Abbey, once richly endowed, fell to decay
owing to mal-administration in the 14th cent., and was secularised in 1799.
The church, consecrated as. early as 806, contains the remains of Charles the
Fat, great-grandson of Charlemagne, who was dethroned in 887. It is now
the parish church of the neighbouring village of Mittelzell or Miinster (Krone).
The tower and nave belong to the original building. There are now few
antiquities here, except several reliquaries in the sacristy. The Carolingian
churches of Oberzell and Unterxell are architecturally interesting.
The train intersects the tongue of land between the Untersee
and the Ueberlinger See on the S.W. side, passes Markelfingeny
Allensbach^ and Reichenau, and crosses the Rhine to (89 M.) Con^
stance (p. 27), by an iron bridge embellished with statues.
Steamboat fbom Schaffhausen to Constance. Charts of the journey
are issued gratuitously on board the steamboats ; the stations are indicated
with daggers.) Pier (omnibus, p. 22) above the bridge, near ScTUoss Munot
(p. 22), opposite Feuerthalen. — Bight: Paradies, formerly a nunnery.
t Left: BUsingeUy a Baden village.
E. iSt. Caiharinenthal, formerly a nunnery, now a hospital for in-
curables; opposite (left) Villa Rauschenberg.
t B. Diessenhofen (1325'; Adler; LHwe; HincK), the Roman Quno-
24 Routes. STEIN.
durum. The Bhine is crossed here by a covered wooden bridge, below
which the steamer lowers its funnel.
R. BhtinkUnf^en ; left, J?«fr«m. We now pass nnder the handsome
bridge of the North East line (see p. 23). I^. Hemuhqfen, with the ruin
of Wolketutein above. B. Waffenhattsen.
t L. Btein (* Sonne; Sehwan)^ a picturesque old town, connected with
the village of Burg (Wasserfels) by a new wooden bridge, and a station on
the Winterthnr railway (p. 30). The suppressed monastery of 8t. Oeorge
contains a hall with a vaulted wooden roof, erected in 1516, and embel-
lished with frescos. The Rathhaus contains a collection of stained glass,
old weapons, etc. The old chateau of Hohenklingen (1945'), on a hill to
the N. of the town, affords an admirable view.
Above Stein is the island of St. Othmar with the chapel of that name.
The Rhine widens, the steamer enters the XTntanee. R. Btchent (p. 30) ;
on the hill above it the ch&teau of Freuden/els.
t L. Oberiiaad^ an old mansion with a square tower, now occupied
by dyeworks; beyond it the suppressed monastery of Oehningen.
t R. Mammem (p. 30)-, in the wood, the ruin of Neuburg ; on the
bank, the house of Olarisegg.
t L. Wangen and the chateau of Marhach (now a hydropathic estab.).
t R. SUckbom (p. 30). Below it, the former nunnery of Feldback.
f B. Bwltngm (p. 30). The lake expands, and we now see the island
of Reichenau (p. 30). On the bill to the right is the chateau of £ugena-
berg, erected by Eugfene Beaubarnais, vice-king of Italy, and now the
property of Count Reichenbach-LessonitK.
f R. Mannenbach (Pens. Fehr), charmingly situated, above which is
the handsome pinnacled chateau of Salenstein ; then, on a beautifully wood-
ed hill, Arenaberg (1052'), once the residence of Queen Hortcnse (d. 1837)
and her son Napoleon III. (d. 1873), now the property of the ex-Empress
Eugenie, and containing many reminiscences of Napoleon I.
t R. Ermatingen (p. 80), prettily situated on a promontory; on
»the hill above it, Sehlou Wol/*berg (now a ^Kurhaus* and pension). The
neighbouring Sohlots Bard, with its beautiful garden, is not visible.
t L. Oberzell, on the island of Reichenau (see above). We now enter
the narrow arm of the Rhine connecting the Untersee with the Lake of
Constance.
t R. Oottlieben (Krone), with a chateau, now restored, in which Huss
and Jerome of Prague, and afterwards Pope John XXII. were confined
by order of the Council. The chateau and ruin of Castel, on the hill at
the back of the village, command a charming view. Beautiful retrospect
of the Untersee, with the Hohenhofen, Hohenstoffeln, and other peaks of
the Hohgau in the distance.
The banks now become flat, and at places marshy. We thread our
way through reedy shallows (1. Petershausen ^ with large barracks), and
at length pass under the handsome railway-bridge of Constance (p. 27).
Passengers are landed at the pier with a lighthouse at its E. end.
9. Tke Falls of the Rhine.
Comp. Map^ p. 2€.
Hotalfl. On the hill on the right bank , near stat. Neubausen (p. 22),
*Sghwbizebhof, R., L., & A. 5-6, D. 4-5 fr., well managed (no fees), with
extensive grounds and the finest view of the Falls and the Alps ; Bbllevue,
R., L., & A. 3-4, D. 31/2 fr. *, omnibuses from both to the station and pier
at SchafThausen (li/s fr.). At Neuhausen, *'Uutel Rheimfall, ^Rheihhof,
with baths, both moderate. — On the l^t bank, above the Falls, Hot.
ScHix)SS Ladfbk, R. 2V« fr. ', Wixzio, at stat. Dachsen, »/4 M. from the
Falls (omnibus from both hotels in 8 min.). Illumination of the Falls
with electric light every evening in summer (1 fr.).
English Church Service at the Schweizerhof.
The station for the Falls on the right bank is ITeukausen (p. 22) on the
aden Railway, that on the left bank Dachten (p. 30) on the Swiss line.
. 1
FALLS OF THE RHINE. 9. Route. 25
The best way to see the Falls is to start from Neahaasen and follow
the route described below (cross the bridge to Schloss Lau/en^ descend to
the FUcheiz^ cross to the BchldncJwn Wdrth^ and retnm through the
^nnds, IVs br. in all). This round is often taken in the reverse direc-
tion, bat as the Fischetz, the most striking point of all is then visited
first , the other points lose much of their impressiveness. — Travellers who
desire to combine a visit to the falls with the journey to or from Switeer>
land alight at stat. JDaehsen (allowing luggage to go on to its destination
and await their arrival), walk or drive (omnibus there and back IV2 fr.)
to (1 M.) Lauferiy descend through the grounds to the Fischetz, cross to
StAldsschen W&rthj and return to Scbloss Laufen by the Bheinfallbriicke ;
or descend from Worth by the road on the right bank to the (3/4 M.) vil-
lage of -^ohL cross the river (ferry 15-20 c), and regain Dachsen in a few
minutes. — The pleasant est way to visit the Falls from Sehaffhausen (p. 22)
is to drive in an open carriage, via Feuerthalen, to Scbloss Laufen. Or
the traveller may walk to Nenhausen and cross the railway-bridge to the
Scbloss (2 M.)^ Omnibuses ply from the Hotel Scbloss Laufen and from
the hotels on the right bank to the railway station and steamboat quay
at Sehaffhausen. — All the points of view should if possible be visited ,
as the traveller's impression of the Falls will otherwise be imperfect.
The **FalIs of the Khine are in point of volume the grandest
in Europe. The Rhine is precipitated in three leaps over an
irregular rocky ledge, which on the side next the left bank is
about 60' in height, and on the right bank about 48'. Above the
Falls the river is about 125 yds. in width. If the rapids and the
cataracts a few hundred paces farther up be taken into account, the
total height of the falls may be estimated at nearly 100'. (Level
of the Rhine below the falls 1180'.) In June and July the river is
much swelled by melting snow. Before 8 a.m. and after 3 p.m.
numberless rainbows are formed by the sunshine in the clouds of
silvery spray. The spectacle Is also very impressive by moonlight.
Of the four limestone -rocks which rise above the Falls, that nearest
the left bank has been worn by the action of the water to one-third of
it0 original thickness, but has lately been buttressed with masonry. When
viewed from a boat below, the rocks seem to tremble. The central and
higheat rock , surmounted by a small pavilion, may be reached by boat,
and ascended by a path protected by a railing. The Falls are here surveyed
to the best advantage. The passage, which only occupies a few minutes,
is unattended with danger (1-2 pers. 3 fr. and fee *, each additional person
1 fr.). — It is a curious fact that no mention of the Falls of the Bhine
occurs in history before the year 980. It has therefore been assumed that
they did not exist until about a thousand years ago. The theory of Prof.
E. I>ietrieh of Berlin is, that, while the bed of the river below the falls has
gradually been deepened by erosion, the deepening process above the falls
has been retarded by the hardness of the rocky barrier above mentioned.
Leaving the Neuhausen Station (p. 22), we follow the road to
the left, and after a few paces descend by a path to the right to the
village. Beyond the H6tel Rheinfall we descend to the right by a
finger-post, and after 100 paces take the shady path to the left,
passing the Chin and Waggon Factory (a projecting point near which
affords a fine Tiew of the Falls) to the (V4 hr.) ^Sheinfallhraoke,
210 yds. long, which carries tiie 'Nordostbahn' over the Rhine a
little above the Falls (p. 30). The nine arches vary in span (42-66'),
as it was difficult to obtain a foundation for the piers. The footway
on the upper side of the bridge affords an interesting view of tbe
rocky bed of the river, the rapids, and the falls below.
26 Route 10. LAKE OF CONSTANCE.
On the left bank a path ascends to the left in 5 min. to ^6tel
SchloBS Lanfen (ISGO'^, picturesquely situated on a wooded rock
immediately above the Falls. (Admission 1 fi. ; no other fees.). The
balcony and a jutting pavilion with stained-glass windows command
a good survey of the falls, the bridge, and the environs.
Footpaths descend through the grounds to the chief points of
view : an iron *Pavilion, the wooden *Kdnzlij and lastly the *FUchetz,
an iron platform projecting over the foaming abyss. The scene here
is stupendous. The vast emerald-green volume of water descends
with a roar like thunder, apparently threatening to overwhelm the
spectator, and bedewing him with its spray.
Boats are in readiness here to ferry us across (50 c.) to the
SchloBBchen Wdrth (^Restaur. ; camera obscura 50 c), on an island
opposite the Falls, which is connected with the right bank by a
bridge. This point commands the finest general *Vibw of the Fidls.
(Boat to the central rock, see above.) We may now return to the
Neuhausen station or visit the Schweizerhof. To the W. of the
hotel is the Fi«cA«rA67«2i, with shady grounds and picturesque views.
Or we may follow the road on the right bank, ascending the river
(past a bench commanding a splendid •View) to the Laufen Iron-
works, where a stone parapet near the sluices affords another good
survey of the Falls. The road thence to the left ascends through
the village of Neuhausen to the station (see above).
10. From FriedrichsliafeiL to Constance. Lake of
Constance.
Steamboat four times daily in summer (twice direct, in i^/r-i^/i hr.;
twice via Meersbui^ in 2 hrs.). Between the chief places on the lake,
FriedrieTishafen^ Lindau^ Bregent^ Rorschach ^ Bomaruhorny Conttanee,
Meersburffy Ueberlinffen, and Ludieig^a/en ^ the steamera (about 26 in
number) ply at least once daily, and on the chief routes (Friedrichshafen-
Constance IV'2 hr., Friedrichshafen - Bomanshom 1 hr., FriedrichBhafen-
Rorschach IV4 hr., Borschach-Lindau iVihr., Constance-Lindau 2Vs hrs.)
3-4 times daily. Good restaurants on board. The lake being neutral,
luggage is liable to custom-house examination on arriving in Germany or
Austria from Switzerland, and nominally in the reverse case also. Passengers
from one German port to another may avoid these formalities by obtaining
on embarcation a custom-house ticket for their luggage, which will be
delivered to them free of charge on their arrival.
The Lake of Gonatance (1306'; Ger. Bodensee^ Lat. Locus BrigaiUinut)y
an immense reservoir of the Rhine, 210 sq. H. in area, is, from Bregenz
to the influx of the Stockach, 40 M. long, about TVs M. wide, and between
Friedrichshafen and Utweil 836' deep. The water is of a light green colour.
The N.£. banks are in general flat, but are bounded on the S.W. by beau-
tiful wooded hills, which gradually decrease in height towards Constance.
In beauty of scenery the Bodensee cannot vie with the other Swiss lakes;
but its broad expanse of water, its picturesque banks, and green hills,
the chain of the Appenzell Alps in the distance, the snow-clad Sentis in
particular, and several snow-peaks of the Vorarlberg Alps, visible in clear
weather, combine to present a very pleasing scene. The lake is bounded
by three different states : Germany (Baden , Wurtemberg , and Bavaria),
Austria (Vorarlberg), and Switzerland (St. Gallen and Thurgau). The best
CONSTANCE. 10. Route. 27
%di are '^F^tchen" and trout, and the "best wine grown on the banks is the
*Meer$hwger\
FriedriehslLafeii (*Konig v. Wurttembergy 7 min. N. of the stat. ;
*Deut8che8 Bau3, near the lake and station, good cuisine, moderate ;
•JTrofif, with a garden on the lake; Sonne; Adler ; ^RaucVs
Sest(n£r.)j the S. terminns of the Wurtemberg Railway (to Stutt-
gart 6-7V2 hrs.), is a busy place in summer. Its lake-baths attract
many visitors, especially from Swabia, and it boasts of a KurhaUe
with pleasant grounds on the lake. The royal Schloss contains pic-
tures by Gegenbaur , Pflug, and other modem "Wurtemberg artists ;
a pavilion in the garden commands a charming view of the lake
and the Alps. The historical and other collections of the Bodensee-
Verein in the former Bellevue Hotel deserve a visit. The Harbour
with its Lighthouse is 1 M. from the railway-station.
Travellers about to continue their journey by steamer may keep their
seats until the train reaches the quay. Those arriving by steamer may
procure tickets immediately on landing, and step into the train at once.
A trip on the clear pale-green lake is generally very enjoyable,
but in rough weather sea-sickness is sometimes experienced. On
the N. bank are the village of Immenstaad^ the chateaux of Herrs-
herg and Kirchberg; then the village of Hagnau. On the N.W. arm
of the lake, the XJeberlinger See^ we next observe the picturesque
little town of Meersburg ; then the island of Mainau (p. 29), and in
the distance XJeberlingen. The steamer passes the promontory which
separates the XJeberlinger See from the bay of Constance, and
reaches Constance in 1^2 ^^•
Coil8tftnC6. — *Insbl-H6tsl (PL a), formerly a Dominican monastery
(p. 28), with a garden, B., L. £ A. 3 m. 20, B. 1 m. 20 pf., D. 3 m. 50 pf. \
*KoNSTAKzsB Ho? (PI. b), ou the If. bank of the lake, with extensive
grounds, lake-baths, etc., B., L. & A. 4 m. 20, D. SVs, pension from 6^/2 m.
(fine view from both these hotels); *Hkcht (PI. d), R., L. & A. 3, B. 1,
D. 3 m.; *HdTBL Halm (PI. c), opposite the railway-station, B. & A. 272,
B. 1 m. ; ^Badischbb Hof (PI. f); Kbone (PI. g), Ankeb, Schifp, ^'Bab-
BAKOSSA, ^Booak, and *'Falkb, second class. — Ccif4 Maximilian^ Bahnhofs-
Str. ; Schnetzer^ in the market. — Baf?is in the lake, well fitted up (bath
40 pf.).
Constance (1335'; pop. 14,800), a free town of the Empire
down to 1548, after the Reformation subject to Austria, and since
the Peace of Pressburg in 1805 a town of Baden, lies at the N.W.
end of the Lake of Constance, at the efflux of the Rhine. The epis-
copal see, founded in 781 , and held by 87 bishops in succession,
was deprived of its temporalities in 1802, and suppressed in 1827.
The *Cathbdiial (PI. 4), founded in 1052, once a cruciform
Romanesque edifice , was rebuilt in its present form at the be-
ginning of the 16th century. The Gothic tower, designed by Hiibsch,
was erected in 1850-57; the open spire has a platform on each
side, which commands an excellent survey of the town and lake.
biTZBXOB. On the doors of the chief portal are *Reliefs in 20 sections,
from the life of Christ, carved in oak by Simon Haider in 1470. * Choir-
stalls, with satirical sculptures, of the same date. The organ-loft was
enriched in the Renaissance style in 1680. In the nave, which is borne by
16 monolith columns (2& high, 3' thick), sixteen paces from the entrance.
28 Route 10, CONSTANCE.
is a large stone slab, with a white spot which always remains dry when
the rest is damp. On this spot Huss is said to have stood on 6th July,
1415, when the Council sentenced him to be burnt at the stake. The N.
chapel adjoining the choir contains a *Death of the Virgin, in stone, date
1460. In the left aisle is the monument of J. H. v. Wesset^erg (see below).
The Tbeardkt (verger Vz-l in.) contains missals of 1426 with miniatures.
On the E. side of the church is a Cbtpt, containing the Chapel of the Se-
pulchre, a representation of the Holy Sepulchre in stone, 20^ high (13th
cent.). Adjoining the church on the N. stand two sides of the once hand>
some ^Cloistess.
The Wessbnbebg-Haus (PI. 15), once the residence of the
benevolent Hr. v. Wessenberg (d. Io60), who for many years was
the administrator of the bishopric, contains a collection of pictures,
engravings (daily, 9-12 and 2-5), and books (Mon., Wed., and
Sat. 2-4, Sun. 11-12), bequeathed by him to the town.
The late-Gothic church of St. Stephen (PI. 6), of the 15th cent.,
with its slender tower , but disfigured externally, contains inter-
esting sculptures in wood and stone.
The Wessenberg-Str. leads hence to the Obere Markt^ at the
corner of which is the house ^Zum Hohen Haftrik (PI. 2), where,
according to the modern inscription, Frederick, Burgrave of Nurem-
berg, was invested with the March of Brandenburg by Emp. Sigis-
mund on 18th April, 1417. Adjacent is an old house (now the
Cafe Barbaros8a)y styled by the inscription Curia Pacis^ in which
Emp. Frederick I. concluded peace with the Lombard towns in
1183. — A little to the W. is the new Prot. Church (PI. 5).
The Stadt-Kanzlei , or Town Hall (PI. 12), erected in 1593
in the Renaissance style, and recently embellished on the facade
with frescos relating to the history of Constance, contains the Muni-
cipal Archives in the lower rooms (2800 charters , chiefly from the
Reformation period). Handsome inner court. — Opposite at Sar-
tori's bookshop M. Vincent's interesting collection of stained glass
is now partly exhibited. — In the market-place stands a Wingless
Victory J by Baur (PI. 10), erected in memory of the war of 1870-71.
The Rosgabtbn (PI. 8) , the old guild-house of the butchers,
contains the *Ro8garten- Museum j a fine collection of antiquities of
Constance and natural history specimens (adm. 40 pf.).
The Kaufhaus (PI. 1) on the lake, erected in 1388, contains
the large hall, 52 yds. long, 35 yds. wide, and borne by ten mass-
ive oaken pillars, where the conclave of cardinals met at the time
of the Great Council (1414-18). The hall has lately been restored
and adorned with *Frescos by Pecht and Schworer from the history
of the town (adm. 20 pf.). Upstairs a collection of Indian and
Chinese curiosities, the property of the castellan (40 pf.).
The Dominican Monasteby in which Huss was confined, on
an island, has been partly converted into a hotel ('Insel-HoteV,
p. 27). The well-preserved Romanesque cloisters and the finely
vaulted dining-room (formerly the church) are worthy of a visit.
Pleasant promenade in the Stadtgarten (PI. C, 3,4) on the lake,
yith a marble bust of Emp. William and charming view.
KREUZLINGEN. 11. Route. 29
The house in which Huss was arrested, in the Hussenstrasse
near the Schnetzthor (PL A, 5), is indicated by a tablet with a por-
trait of the reformer in relief, put up in 1878. Adjoining it is an
old relief, of 1415, with derisive verses. Some houses farther on, at
the *Obere Laube', a bronze tablet with inscription designs the spot
where Jerome of Prague was imprisoned in 1415-16. In the BrCW,
to the W. of the town, 1/2 M. from the Prot. Church (p. 28), a large
hoalder with inscriptions marks the spot where the illustrious
reformer and Jerome of Prague suffered martyrdom.
Fine view of the lake and the Vorarlberg and Appensell Alps from
the *Allmannthbhe ('/4 hr.), with belvedere (refreshm.), 5 min. above the
village of Allmannsd'orf^ on the road to the Hainan. — Pleasant walks to
the LoTBtto- Kapelle (1/2 hr.); the Jacobs a restaurant with a fine view
0/z hr.); and the Kltine Rigi^ above Miinaterlingen (Inn; 1 hr.)-
In the N. W. arm of the Lake of Constance {Ueherlinger See, p. 23),
41/2 H. from Constance, lies the pretty island of ^Mainan, formerly the seat
of a commandery of the Teutonic order, as is indicated by a cross on the
S. side of the chateau, which was built in 1746. The island, U/-z H. in
circumference, is connected with the mainland by an iron bridge 650 paces
long. Since 1863 it has been the property of the Grand Duke of Baden, and
is laid out in pleasure-grounds. Steamboat from Constance in 55 min. ;
sm^l boat (a pleasant trip of 1 hr.) 5 m. and gratuity ; carriage and pair (in
Vs hr.) 8 m. ; walkers take a shorter route, partly through pleasant woods
(1 hr.).
11. From Eorschach by Constance to Winterthur
(Zurich) .
Comp. Maps, pp. 26^ 32.
60 M. Railway (Nordoathahn) in 4V4-53/4 hrs. (fares 9 fr. 90, 6 fr. 95,
fr. 86 c).
Borfchachf see p. 48. The line skirts the lake of Constance,
of wMeh it affords pretty glimpses. Rising conspicuously above the
woods on the N. bank is Heiligenberg (1066' above the lake), a
chate&n of Prince FiiYstenberg. Stations Horn (p. 49), Arbon
(*Bar; Engel; Kreuz), a small town on the site of the Roman
Arbor Felix. — 71/2 M. Egnach.
9 M. Somaxtflhom, see p. 46 ; the station is close to the steam-
boat pier. 12 M. Uttvyyl; 13 M. Kesswyl (Bar; Pens. Seethal),
well-to-do villages. To the right, on the lake, the Moosburg is
visible. — 95 M. Outtingenj with a chateau ; 16 M. Altnau ; I8Y2 M.
Munsterlir^ger^y formerly a Benedictine abbey, now a lunatic asylum.
— 21 M, Kreuzlingen (^Helvetia; Lbwe)^ a pleasant little town
with the old Augustinian abbey of that name, at present a seminary
for teachers. The church contains a curious piece of wood-carving
of the 18th cent., with about 1000 small figures.
22 M. Coxurtance (a terminus station), see p. 27. The train
backs out and runs towards the W. through a fertile district. 23 M.
Emmishofen^EgtUhofen^ 25 M. Tctgerweilen^ thriving villages;
on the Rhine, to the right, Qottlieben (p. 24). Near (28 M.)
Ermatlngen (*H6t. Seefeld, with pleasant grounds, baths eto., pens.
30 BouU12. DACHSEN.
from 5 fi. ; AdUr ; Krone) we approach the green Vnttrstt, which
we now skirt. Charming views ; in the distance to the N.W., rise
the peaks of the Hohgau (p. 24). Near Ermatingen, on the height
to the left, are the chateaux of Wolfsberg and Hard ; then Aretha-
berg (p. 24), and near (28^/2 M.) Mannenbtich the handsome 8alen~
stein (comp. p. 24). To the right, in the lake, the large island of
Reichenau (p. 23); on the left, Schlosa Eugens^erg (p. 24). At
(30^2 ^0 Berlingen the Untersee attains its greatest width (5 M.),
after which it divides into two hranches.
32 M. Bteckborn (*Lowe ; Krone ; Sonne) j a small town with
a castellated 'Kaufhaus', lately restored. Below it, on the right,
the iron-foundry of Feldbach, once a nunnery. On the right,
farther on , the mansion of Olarisegg ; to the left , in the wood,
the ruin of Neuburg. On the opposite (N.) hank are Wangen and
the hydropathic establishment of Marbach (p. 24).
36 M. Mammem (Ochs, at the station), with a chateau, used as
a *Hydropathic Estab. (pension). Then, on the right hank, Ober--
staad, and on the hill the abbey of Oehningen (p. 24). At (37 M.^
Esehenz the Untersee again narrows into the Rhine (p. 24). We
follow the left bank to the station for (39 M.) Stein (*8onney
Schwan)^ on the right bank, commanded by the castle of Hohen-
klingen ; and then turn to the left to (41 M.) Etzweileny the junc-
tion for Singen (p. 23).
On the left, as we proceed to the S., is the vine-clad and
wooded Stammheimer Berg (1716'). 43^2 M. Stammheim , a large
village; 481/2 M. Ossingen. We now cross the Thur by a bold iron
bridge, 148 high, borne by seven iron buttresses. Stations Thal-
heim'Altikon^ Dynhard, Seuzach^ and Oberwinterthurj a small town
with an old Romanesque church (tower modern), the Roman Vtto-
durum (p. 45).
60 M. Winterthur and thence to (76^2 M.) Zurich see p. 45.
12. From Schaffhaasen to Zurich.
Comp, MapSy pp. 22, 36.
35 M. Railway (Nordotthahn) in 2 bra.: to Winterthur 1 hr., to Zurich
1 hr. (fares 6 fr., 4 fr. 20 c, 3 fr.). Views on the rigtU.
Schaffhausen , see p. 22. The Une skirts the lofty Fasenstaub
Promenade (p. 23), and passes below the villa Charlottenfels (p. 22).
On the right, high above, is the Waldshut railway (p. 22), which
passes through a tunnel under Charlottenfels. Immediately beyond
a long cutting we cross the Rheinfallbriicke (see p. 25), obtaining
a glimpse of the falls to the right, and enter a tunnel, 71 yds. long,
under Schloss Laufen (p. 25). On emerging, and looking back to
the right, we obtain another beautiful glanoe at the falls.
3 M. Dachsen (1296'; B6tel Witzig) lies 1 M. to the S. of
Schloss Laufen (comp. p. 26). As the train proceeds, it affords pleas-
ZURICH. 13, Route. 31
ing views at intervals of the bluish-green Rhine in its deep and nar-
row channel, enclosed by wooded banks.
51/2 M. Marihalen. The valley of (10 1/2 M.) Andelflngen (1298' ;
Uwe) soon begins to open, and that thriving village appears in the
distance to the right, on the steep bank of the Thur, We approach it
by a wide curve, and cross the Thur above the village by an iron
bridge IIB' high. We then skirt the river for a short distance, and
reach Andelflngen on the S. side. The site of the station has been
excavated in an ancient moraine.
The route is now less interesting. Stations Henggart, JSettUngen,
The vine-clad slopes of Neftenbaeh, to the right, produce the best
wines in N. Switzerland, the finest of which is QalUnspitt. Near
Winterthur the broad valley of the Toss is entered.
19 M. Winterthur, and thence to (35 M.) Zurich, see p. 45.
18. Zurich and the ITetliberg.
Hotels. ^HoTBL Baub au Lag (PI. a ^ 0, 4), with a gardenp. on the lake,
and delightful view, R., L., & A. 5-6, lunch aVaj D- 6 fr. ;>%sllbvuk (PI.
b; D, 5), on the lake, with fine view, R. , L., & A. 41/2-5 fr. ; •Victoria
(PI. g; G, 3), R., L., A A. 4-5, D. 3V« fr. , National (PI. n-, G, 4), same
charges, *H6tel Habis (PI. o 5 G, 3), R. dc L. 31/2 fr. (with good restaur.),
these three at the station; ^Schwb&t (PI. d; E, 5), by the lower bridge,
with view of the Alps, R. & L. 3, D. 3-3V2 fr. \ •HdiEL Baub-Stadt (PI. c;
D, 4), R., L., & A. from 8, D. 4fr.; "Zubicheb Hof (PL e; D, 6), R., L.,
4 A. 3V2, D. 372 fr.5 *Stobch (PL f; E, 5), commercial; *St. Gotthard
(PL q I G, 4) and 'Wanneb's Hotel (PL s ; F, 4), Bahnhofs-Str.; Batbischee
HoF (PL p; G, ^ and ^Stadthop (PL u \ G, 4), both near the station, moder-
ate; *H6t. Gentbal (PL i; G, 5), on the right bank of the Limmat, near
the station; *Schweizebhof (PL h ; F, 5j, R. & A. 2V2, 1>., incL wine, 3V2 fr.,
and •LiMMATHOF (PL t ; G , 5) , on the Limmatquai ; Rothes Haus , and
Seehop (PL 1; D, 5), on the Sonnenquai; "'Schwabzbr Adlbb (R. & A.
172 fr.), "^Somnb, Kbomb, Hibsoh, Lamm, L6wb, etc., unpretending. Visitors
are received at all these hotels en pension, the charges being reduced in
spring and autumn. — *Pen8ion Neptun at Seefeld, near Zurich, 6-7 fr.;
near it, *'Wbi8Sks Kbeuz and Pension Hauseb; ^Gyqme, Miihlenbach-Str.,
quiet, with garden, 7 fr. ; Karolinenbubq and Fobstbb, at Fluntem^ V/2 M.
to the E. of Zurich. The Buegli Tbbbace and Waid , see below. The
'Uetlibebo, see p. 36.
RestaunuQta and Cafes. *Rail. Restaurant ; Caf4t NatUmal, St. QoUhard^
and Hdbis, all at the station; Baurf Centraly Gentralhof; *Vafi zur Meise
(restaurant), by the Mtinsterbrucke. On the right bank: Kronenhalle,
above the Zuricherhof, D, 1^/2-2 fr.; Tonhalle (see below), on the lake, D.
(11 to 2) 3 fr.; 8affran, opposite the Rathhaus ; PhOnix, near the Polytechnic.
— Ices. Spriingli, Parade-Platz; Boui^y, Untere Eirchgasse, on the Son-
nenquai. — Beer. Cafi Orsini, Frau-Miinsterplatz, behind the Hotel Baur;
Gom6rt»t«, Schofelgasse ; Stadtkeller, behind the Limmathof; MetegerWdu,
Beatengasse; TTanner, Bahnhof-Str. ; 5oWer, on the quay; WeUhaar, Stein-
gaose; Ca/i de Paris; Blaue Fahne; Meierei, etc.; also at the above caf^s.
— Wine. Valtellina wine at the Veltlinerhalle. Italian wines: FratelU
Dorta, in the Eiermarkt.
Popular Beaorts. '* Tonhalle (PL 20) on the lake, with an open pavilion
and restaurant; concerts every evening in summer (60 c). Zur Platte,
winter - garden, adjoining the Polytechnic (theatre in summer). *Biirgli
Terrace, Va M. to the 8.W., on the road to the Uetliberg (p. 36). The
*Waid on the Kaferberg, 3 M. to the N.W. of the town. The *Sonnenberg,
OB the slope of the ZUricKberg, above Hottingen. The *' Uetliberg is the
32 RouU 13. ZURICH. Situation.
finest point in the environs (by railway in V? hr. ; see p. 86). -— Informa-
tion as to excursions, objects of interest, etc., may be obtained at the
Offiziellei Yerkehn- Bureau, on the ground-floor of the Exchange buildings.
Baths in the lake near the Quaibriicke, at the suburb of Enge, and
in the Limmat below the Bauschanee. At the S. end of the town, on the
E. bank of the lake, are the NeumantUr Batlu. — Warm Bathi (vapour,
etc.) at the Werdmuhh BatJu, in the Bahnhofs-Str., and at Stoeker^s, in
the Miihlgarten.
Bowiafr-boats for 1-2 pers. 50c. per honr; for 3 or more pers. 20 c.
each per hour; each rower 60c. per hour.
Steamboats (see p. 37) start below the Tonhalle and at the Stadt-
hausquai.
Railway Stations. Central Stixtion at the lower (K.) end of the town,
*/4 M. from the lake (omnibus 75, each box 20 c). — The Bnge Slaiion^
on the left bank of the lake (p. 40), is convenient for the hotels on the
lake. — Uetliberg Station^ at Selnau (PI. D, 1, 2 ; see p. 36).
Tramway from the Central Station through the Bahnhofs-Str. to the
suburb of Snge , across the Bahnhofbriicke and by the Limmatquai and
Sonnenquai to Riesbach and Tie/enbrunnen (near Zollikon) , and to the
cemetery of Aussersihl.
Post and Telegraph Office (PI. 29^ D, £ 4), Bahnhofs-Strasse ^ branch-
offices by the museum on the Limmatquai (p. ^) and at the railway-station.
Cabs. Drive within the town, or not exceeding Vthi'*? 1-2 pers. 80c.,
3-4 pers. Ifr. 20c., each box 20c.; in the evening 10c. extra for the lamps;
from 10 p.m. to 6 a.m. double fares. For Vs ^'-t ^ ^^- ^ <^* or 2 fr. 20 c;
?/« hr., 2fr. or 2 fr. 90 c; 1 hr., 2fr. 50 o. or 3fr. 60 c; IV2 hr., 3fr. 50c.
or 5fr., etc.
English Church Servioe in the Chapel of Bt, Anna (PI. 15-, E 3).
Permanent Exhibition, at Biauh A Co't.^ Paradeplatz (gratis).
Znrioli (1345'; pop. 25,102, or with the suburbs upwards of
85,000), the Roman Ttin'cum, the capital of the canton, lies at the
N. end of the lake, on the green and rapid XtmmaiC, which divides it
into the ^Groase StadC on the right, and the ^Kleine^ on the left
bank. On the W. side flows the Sihl, an unimportant stream ex-
cept in spring, which falls into the Limmat below the town. Zurich
is one of the busiest manufacturing towns in Switzerland, silk and
cotton being the staple products. (There are 10,000 silk-looms in
this canton.) At the same time it is the intellectual centre of German
Switzerland. Its schools are in high repute, having for centuries sent
forth men of distinction, such as Bodmer, Hottinger, Orelli, Gessner,
Lavater, Hess, Pestalozzi, Heidegger, Horner, Hirzel, Henry Meyer,
the friend of Goethe, and many others.
The Situation of Zubich is very beautiful. Both banks of the clear,
pale-green lake are enlivened with villages, orchards, and vineyards, scat-
tered over a highly cultivated country. In the background rise the snow-
capped Alps :, to the left is the crest of the Olarnischy then the perpendicular
sides of the Oriesef stock (92(X)'), near it on the right the P/annstoeky and farther
on, the Drushergy the ice-clad Bi/ertenstock. and the Tddi (the highest of the
group, the two last rising above the Linththal); in front of these the Cla-
rideuy with their westernmost point the ^amrnW* toe* (10,610'); between this
and the double-peaked Scheerhom lies the Ories Glacier; then on the N.
side of the Schdchenthal the long Rots- Stock Chain with its fantastic peaks-,
the broad Windgelle; between this and the Scheerhom appears the dark
summit of the lower Mythe near Schwyz; above the depression between
the wooded Kaiser stock and the Rossberg towers the pyramidal Bristenstocky
near Amsteg on the St. Gotthard route •, then, if we occupy a commanding
position, the Blackenstock and Uri-Rothstock y and part of the snow-moun-
tains of the Engelberger Thai., appearing above the Albis. To the right
Hohe Promenade. ZtJRiCH. 13. Route. 33
risea tbe AlMs, tiie nortbemmOBt point of wUch is the Uetliberffy with the
hotel on its summit.
As the beauty of its situation is tbe great attraction of Zurich, our
walk through tbe town is so planned as to conduct the traveller to tbe
finest Points of Vibw in the shortest possible time. Ko one should omit
to Tisit the Terreuse in front of the Polytechnic and the Softe Promenade.
From the Central Station the BahnliofB-StrasBe, nearly ^/^ M.
long, leads S. to the lake. It passes on the right, in the Linth-
E8cher-Platz(Pl. G,3, 4), the Linth-Escher School ; then, on the right,
the Post Office (PI. 29) and the Credit- Anstatt (PI. 7, facing the
Parade-Platz) ; on the left the Centralhofy a block of houses with
tempting shops ; and on the right the Borse (PI. 2). On the lake,
where extensive quays and other improvements have recently heen
made, to the left, the handsome ^Quaibracke (PI. C, 5 ; 65' broad),
constructed in 1882-83 by Holzmann & Benkiser, crosses the Lim-
mat near its issue from the lake. Below the bridge on the left
bank of the Limmat, is the Bauschanze (PI. G, D, 5), a small
pentagonal island ^ith walled sides (formerly a bastion), shaded
with trees, and connected with the bank by a bridge. Pleasant
new Promenades, commanding beautiful views of the town, the
lake, and the Alps, extend along the shor^ of the lake to th^
right , as far as the new Winter Harbour near the suburb of Enge.
On the right bank, we may from the Quaibriicke (leaving on
the right the TonhaltCj p. 31) either ascend the hill, passing the
Kronenhalle (to the left is the Swiss exhibition of articles used in
building, adm. free), or cross the Stadelhofer PlatZj with its tasteful
fountain, to the *Hohe Promenade (PI. 13), a loftily situated avenue
of lime-trees. Beautiful view (best by morninglight, see Panorama
by Keller) from the plateau with the Monument of Nageli (d. 1836 ;
PI. 10), a favourite vocal composer, erected 'Von den schweizerischen
S'angervereinen ihrem Vater Nageli'. Adjacent are the old Cemeteries
(PI. 27 ; entrance on the opposite side adjoining the Gothic Rom.
Gath. chapel), containing many handsome monuments.
From the N. end of the Hohe Promenade a road passing the N. side
of the cemetery leads to the R'amistrasse, ascending which we soon
reach the Cantonal Sohool (PI. F, 7) on the left, a handsome edifice
approached by a fine flight of steps on the S.W. side, and compri-
sing a grammar and an Industrial school. Farther on, to the right,
are the Cantoruil Hospital (PI. 6), the School of Anatomy and the
Pathological Institute, and still farther on the School of Forestry and
Agriculture, and the handsome new Chemical Laboratory, To the left
on the slope of the hill is an Asylum for the Blind and Dumb (PI. 4) ;
lower down to the left, the Kimstgeb&nde (*Kiinstler-Giitli' ; PI. 21\
containing the Picture Gallery of the Artists' Union (open on Sat. 2-4,
Sun. 10-12; at other times apply at the restaurant at the back).
Pictures by the older Zurich artists (chiefly portraits): ff. Aspev, J.
Ammann. S. Ho/mann^ K. Meyer^ atnd others. Millenety Return of the Zxi-
richers from the battle of Tattwyl ^ Angelica Kauffmann^ Winckelmann \
FHisljf^ Portrait of Bodmer^ L. Eess^ Landscapes^ Scheuchxer^ The Fuschcr-
Baxdekes, Switzerland. 12th Edition. 3
34 RouU 13, ZCBICH. Polytechnic,
th&I; Deschwanden, The Maries at the Sepalchre; Steffan^ Mountain tor-
rent 5 Bosshard, Scenes from the history of Zurich; KolUr, The Engel-
berger Thai, Midday repose, Autumn evening; Holghalb, The Wetter-
hom; Didayy At the Handeck, Scene in the Valais; Veillon^ Evening on
the Lake of Lucerne*, Oirardety The sick child; Anker ^ Pestalozzi; Grob,
The artist on his travels; Frdhliehery Forest scene in Upper Bavaria; Tobler,
Wedding in the Amperthal; Corrodi^ Uncle and nieces; Euff. Girardet^
Halt in the desert; Stilckelberg^ Charcoal-burner in the Jura; Buchser^
Italian pastoral scene; ^Boekliny Spring; Baade^ Sea-pieces; Rigaud^ Por-
traits ; Tuchbein^ Portrait of Bodmer ; Marie BUenrieder, Portrait of a man.
Farther on, to the left, is the handsome *Folytechnie (PI. 28),
designed by (?. Semper (d. 1878), and erected in 1861-64. It is the
seat of the University of Zurich (founded in 1832; 400 students,
88 professors and lecturers) and of the federal Polytechnic School
(founded in 1855; 800 students).
In the vestibule a marble bust of Semper, by Kissling, was erected in
188T. On the ground-floor are the Archaeological Collection (casts , Greek
vases, 'Terracottas from Tanagra, etc.; Sun. 10-12, Tues. and Frid. 2-4);
on the first floor the Mineralogical and Palaeontological ; on the second floor
the Zoological Collection (Thurs. 8-12 and 2-6) and the Aula, handsomely
decorated, with mythological ceiling-paintings by Bin of Paris. Opposite
the platform is a marble bust of Orelli (d. 1849), the celebrated philologist,
by Meilli. Splendid view from the balcony.
The terrace of the Polytechnic commands the finest survey of
the town. On the right are the St. LeonhardS'Pfrundhaui ('deanery',
PI. 22), an asylum for the aged poor, and the new Biirgerasyl.
Lower down, on the Limmat, and opposite the railway-station, lies
the manufacturing quarter of Ziirich, with the extensive engine-
works of Etcher, Wyas, ^ Co. (PI. 24), who have constructed most
of the steamboats which ply on the Swiss and Italian lakes.
We descend rapidly from the Polytechnic to the S.W. , pass the
Predigerkirche (PI. F, 5, 6), and reach the Limmatqual by the
TJntere Brucke (PI. E, 5). On our right is the handsome Fleiach'
halle, or meat-market (PI. 12), and opposite to it are the Lese-
Museum (PI. 26 ; introduction by a member) and the substantial
guild-house Zum Schneggen. Above the bridge is the Bathhaag
(PI. 30), a massive building of 1699.
Following the right bank of the Limmat, in which we may note
the interesting swan-breeding establishment, and crossing theRath-
haus-Quai, we next come to the MiXnsterhrucke (PI. D, 5). On the
left of the Rathhaus-Quai is the Riiden^ restored in the German
Renaissance style, containing the Swiss educational exhibition and
the Pestalozzi cabinet. Adjoining the bridge is an open vestibule
leading to the Town Library (PI. 3; apply at the shop in the corner
to the right), established in an old church (1479), known as the
Wasserkirche, from its having once stood in the water, and enlarged
in 1860. It contains many valuable MSS. (open on week-days 9-12
and 4-6 ; fee 50 c., for a party 1 fr.).
A letter of Zmngli (see below) to his wife \ Zwingli's Greek Bible with
Hebrew annotations in his own handwriting \ autograph letter of Henry I V.
of France and a cast of his features -, three autograph Latin letters of Lady
"^ane Grey to Antistes BuUinger \ letter of Frederick the Great, dated 1784,
I Prof. Miiller; Portraits of burgomasters and scholars of Zurich, includ-
Augusiinian Church. zOrICH. 13. Route. 35
iag Zwingli; marble bust of Lavattr by Dannecker; marble bust of Pesta-
lout by Imbof ; eigbt panes of stained glass of 1506. ^Miiller'g Relit/ of part
of Switzerland, and one of the Engelberger Thai on a much larger scale,
arc executed with great care and accuracy.
The same building contains Antiquities (seen daily, 8-12 and
2-6 , fee 50 c. , Wed. afternoon free) belonging to the Antiquarian
Society, the most interesting of which are relics from the ancient
Swiss lake- villages. — On the Sonnenquai, next the Wasserkirche,
is a bronze Statue of Zwingli (see below), by Natter, erected In 1885.
The steps opposite the Library lead to the GroflB-M&nster (PI. 18),
erected in the Romanesque style of the llth-13th centuries. The
nppec Btories of the towers are Gothic, and in 1799 they were
crowned with helmet-shaped tops with gilded flowers. On the W.
tower is enthroned Charlemagne with gilded crown and sword, in
recognition of donations made by him to the church. The choir
contains three large modern stained-glass windows representing
Christ, St. Peter, and St. Paul. — Zwingli was the incumbent of
this church from 1519 down to his death in 1531 (p. 69).
On the adjacent site of the residence of the canons now stands the
TOehtersehule y erected in 1851 in the same style as the church. In the
interior are Cloisters, of the beginning of the 13th cent., which were
restored in 1851, and adorned with a statue of Charlemagne. — The
church and cloisters are open daily in summer from 11 to 12.
We now cross by the Munsterbriicke to the left bank of the
Limmat. On the right we pass the Zunfthaus zur Meise (p. 31),
and on the left the Fran-UunBterkirche (PI. 17), built in the
middle, of the 13th cent., with a high led-roofed tower. (Beyond
it, in the Post-Str., is the Oentralhof ; see p. 33.)
Turning to the right, we cross the Miinsterplatz to the Peters-
kirehe (PI. 19), with its massive tower and large electric clock
(with dials 29' in diameter), where Lavaier (d. 1801) was pastor
for twenty-three years. In the vicinity, in the direction of the
Bahnhofs-Str. , is the late Gothic Angnstinian Church (PI. 16;
Old Cath.), which served for three hundred years as a magazine,
but was again fitted up as a church in 1848, and is now used by
the *01d Catholics'. Over the side-altars, 'Christ on the Mount of
Olives' and *The Risen Saviour', good pictures by Deschwandenf
the high-altar, pulpit, and organ are also excellent.
Nearly in the centre of the town rises the Lindenhof (PL 23),
123' above the Limmat, once a Celtic settlement, and afterwards an
imperial palace. On the S.^. side is the Masonic Lodge. A little
to the N. are the large House of Correction (PI. 37) and the Or^
fnhan Asylum (PI. 35).
Crossing the Bahnhofs-Str. and following the Pelican-Str. , we
Teach the Botanic Ghuden (PI. 5), which is well stocked with Alpine
plants, and contains bronze busts of A. P. de CandoUe (d. 1841) and
Conrad Gessner (d. 1565), and one in marble of H. Zollinger, a
Swiss hotanist (d. in Java, 1859). In the garden rises the Eats, a
bastion of the old fortress, forming a lofty platform planted with trees.
3*
36 Route 13. UBTLIBKRG.
To the £. of the Botanic Garden a bridge crosses the Schanzen-
graben (the old moat) to the suburb of Selnau, Immediately to the
left is the Oewerbe-Husenm, containing industrial collections (in-
cluding a room from a patrician house of the 17th cent, with fine
entablature and stove). and a permanent exhibition (seen daily,
8-12 and 2-5, except Mon.). Beyond it, towards the Sihl, is the
JJetlibahn Station (see below).
In Atuseraihl, a new artizans' quarter on the left bank of the
^ihlj is the new Military Depot of Canton Zurich, including barracks
and an arsenal. The Colleotion of Arms in the arsenal (open on
week-days 8-12and 1.30-6) consists of battle-axes, halberds, armour,
^ags, and cross-bows, among which last is one of the many which
claim to have belonged to Tell. ZwingWs Battle-axe^ taken by the
Lucerners at Kappel (p. 69), and once kept at Lucerne, was trans-
ferred hither, after the War of the Separate League in 1847, and is
now preserved here with his sword, coat of mail, and helmet. —
In the Grosse Werd^trasse in Ausserslhl is the new Bom. Cath.
Ohnrch, embellished with good stained glass, and altar-pieces by
Balmer and Deschwanden.
The Platzpromenade, an avenue of fine trees, to the 'N. of the railway-
station, on the banks of the clear and rapid Limmat, affords a cool and
pleasant walk. In this promenade are the town Aquarium (20 c.) and the
simple monuments of the idyllic poet Salomon Oessner (d. 1788) and the
minnesinger Joh. Hadlaub. *It terminates in the ^Platsspitz' (so named
from the former Schiitzenplatz), a point of land formed by the" junction
of the Sihl with the Limmat. A bridge crosses the Limmat to the DrcAt-
sehmiedli^ a beer-garden on the right bank ; and this is also the pleasaatest
route to the Waid (p. 81 \ in the village, beyond the garden, we turn to
the right by the post-offfce).
The TJetliberg.
Railway to the- top in Vz br. (fare 1st class 3 fr. 50 c, 2nd cl. 2 fr.;
roturn-ticket , 5 and 3 fr. ; family-tickets for 10 trips up and 10 down,
available for a year, 20 fr. ■, on Sun. and holidays from 10 a.m. return-
ticket 2 fr. This line, SV* M. long, with a maximum gradient of 7' in
lOO*, is constructed in the ordinary way, but, as on the Bigi Railway, the
locomotives are placed behind the trains. The station is in the suburb
oi Selnau (see above ^ PI. D, 1,2), not far from the Botanic Garden, on the
Sihl, V4 hr. from the Central Station and 12 min. from that of Enge (finger-
posts in the Bahnhofs-Str. and elsewhere).
The train skirts the Sihl for a short distance and crosses it to
(5 min.) stat. Wiedikon, where the ascent begins. At first we tra-
verse an open slope, with a pleasant view of Zilrich and the valley
of the Limmat, and then enter a wood. (17 min.) Stat. Waldegg,
The train then describes a long curve on the slope of the hill and
reaches the terminus. About 5 min. above the station is the large
*H6t.-Pen8. Vetliberg(R. & A. 4-5, B. IV4, D. 4; pens, from Sept.
onwards 71/2-^ ^r.), and 3 min. higher, at the top of the hill, is the
*Re8ta%irant Vto-Kulm. Pleasant shady walks in the woods near
the hotel. On the S. side, about */4 hr. from the top, on the footpath
to Zurich , is the *II6tel Vto-Staffel (pens. 5 fr.).
The *ijetliberg (2864') , the northernmost point of the Aibis
UETLIBERG. 13. Route. 37
range, is the finest point in the environs of Zflrich. The view,
though inferior in grandeur to those from heights nearer the Alps,
surpasses them in beauty. It embraces the Lake of Zurich and the
valley of the Limmat; the Alps from the Sentis to the Jungfrau and
the Stockhorn on the Lake of Thun, with the Rigi and Pilatus in the
foreground ; to the W. the Jura, from the Ohasseral on the Lake of
Bienne to its spurs near Aarau, over which appear some of the
Yosges Mts. ; farther N. are the Feldberg and Belchen in the Black
Forest, and the volcanic peaks of the Hohgau, Hohentwiel, Hohen-
howen , and Hohenstoffeln. The Abbey of Muri (9 M. distant),
with a facade 750' in length, is distinctly seen by morning light
(p. 20). Baden with its old castle (p. 18) is also prominent. A
good panorama by Keller. — On the Uto-Kulm is a monument to
the Zurich statesman Jakob Dubs (d. 1879), consisting of a marble
obelisk with a bust in relief.
Walk to the Uetubkkg (2 hrs.). The road leads to the W. throagh
the subnrb Enge. Where the telegraph-wires diverge to the left, we go
straight on (to the left is the BUrgli, p. 31). After 1 H. (from the Hdtel
Baur) we cross the Sihl, turn to the left in the direction of the mountain,
and reach (>/4 H.) the Mbisgiitli (tavern ■, cab to this point 2-3 fr.). We
now turn to the right and ascend by a well-trodden path winding some-
what steeply up the valley, to the Hdtel Uto-Btaffel (see p. 36), on the
brow of the hill, where a view of the Bigi, Pilatus, and the Bernese
Alps is disclosed. Near the inn is an inscription to the memory of F. von
DurleTy who lost his life here in 1840. To the summit 20 min. more.
Fbox the Ubtlibebg to the Albis-Hocbwaght, a beautiful walk of
3 hrs., ascending and descending on the Albis range, and chiefly through
wood. A few minutes' walk beyond the Hotel Uto-Staffel (see p. 36) we
keep to the right where the path divides (finger-post), and follow a good
path, which is even practicable for carriages, skirting the crest of the
mountain. Fine view from the Felsenegg (Restaur. ; finger-post). To the
left is the ravine of the Sihl, beyond it . the blue lake with its thousand
glittering dwellings, to the right the pretty Tiirler See, and farther distant
a fertile hilly tract, with the Alps towering in the distance. — We obtain
the finest view shortly before reaching (2V2 hrs.) Ober-Albis (2602' 5 Inn).
From the Hochtoaeht (3012'), V2 br. to the S., a good forest-path leads to
the E. (finger-post) to the forester's house of Unier-Sihlwald (good quarters)
on the Sihl, and to (1 V4 hr.) Horgen (p. 38) \ while to the W. a road leads
past the small Tiirler See to (3 H.) Hatuen (p. 69).
14. From Ziirich to Coire. Lakes of Ziirich and
Walenstadt.
Comp. Mapsy pp. 50, 68.
79 M. Railway to Coire by Wallisellen, Rapperswyl, Wesen, and Sar-
gans in 3»/4-4»/4 hrs. (12 fr. 45, 8fr. 75, 6fr. 25 c.). The train does not ap-
proach the Lake of Zurich till it reaches Rapperswyl. — Railway on the
Left (S.) Bank from Zurich to Richterswyl and Glarus : to Ziegelbriicke
(p. 42, junction for Wesen) 36 M., in IV2-2 hrs. (6 fr. 5, 4fr. 25, 3fr. 5c.)i
to Glarus, 43 M., in 2-2V« brs. (7 fr. 20, 5 fr. 5, 3 fr. 60 c). Comp. R. 19.
Steamboat, preferable to the railway, on the right (N.) bank to Rap-
perswyl 7 times daily in 2V4 hrs. (2 fr. 50 or 1 fr. 80 c). Smaller steamers
ply between the N. and S. banks. Steamboat on the left (S.) bank to
Ho^en 4-5 times daily in I-IV4 br., to Richterswyl twice in 2 hrs.
The ♦Lake ofZurieh(1342'),25M. long, 2V2M. broad at its widest
38 BouU 14.
LAKE OF ZURICH.
From Zurich
part, and 470' deep, is fed by tbe Linth and drained by the Limmat.
Its scenery, though with no pretension to grandeur, is scarcely
equalled in beauty by that of any other Swiss lake. The banks rise
in gentle slopes, at the base of which are meadows and arable land ;
above these is a belt of vineyards and orchards, and on the £. side
the hills, here about 2500' high, are wooded. Being sprinkled for
a long distance with houses, villages, and manufactories, the banks
are sometimes not unaptly termed the suburbs of Zurich, In the
background a long chain of snow^clad Alps (see p. 32).
i. Steamboat Janmey.
Left (W. & S.) Bank.
The steamer passes the suburb
of Enge. On the right rises the
long ridge of the Albis ; before
us in the distance tower the Alps
of Uri and Glarus. WoUiahofenj
prettily situated, is the first sta-
tion. The next (24 min. from
Ziirich), Bendlikon (L5we), be-
longing to the parish of iTiYcAftcrgr,
which lies on the hill above. A-
bove Stat. RuschLikon is the rustic
Nidelbad (1 M. by the road), with
a chalybeate spring and charming
walks. Stat. Ludretikon (Krone,
rustic). Then —
(3/4 hr.) Thalwyl (^Adler, by
the church, 1 M. from the lake),
a large village, charmingly situat-
ed. *View of the lake from the
church, or better from the tower.
Stat. Oberrieden ; then —
(1-11/4 hr.) Horgen (pop.
526o ; Schwan ; ^Lowe ; Schutzen-
fiauSj a caf^ on the lake), with
handsome houses chiefly belong-
ing to the silk manufacturers,
pleasantly situated amidst vine-
yards and orchards.
About 172 M. above it is the Kur-
haus Bocken (p. 70). The *Zimmerberg
(1 hr.). see p. 70. — To Zug diligence
daily in 2V2 hrs., see p. 70.
The picturesque peninsula of
AUf with its orchards and mea-
iws, projects far into tbe lake
Right (E. & N.) Bank.
First station, Neumunsterj a
suburb of Zurich, with a hand-
some church loftily situated. Then
ZoUikonj Ooldbach, and (^2 ^'<
from Zurich) Knsnacht (*Sonne),
with a seminary for teachers.
Erlenbach , beautifully situa-
ted. Between Herrliberg, and Thal-
wyl is the deepest part of the lake
(4709. Stations Fe/dmeUen and —
Meilen (Lbwt; Sonne) ^ a
large village with an old church,
at the foot of the Pfannenstiel.
The Pfannenstiel {Okenshdhe,
2418'), to which a good path ascends
from Meilen in 1 hr., affords a charm-
ing -view of the lakes of Zurich and
Greifen and of the Alps from Sentis to
Pilatus (panorama by Keller). Monu-
ment to L. Oken (d. 1851), a famous
naturalist, and an inn at the top.
Panorama by Keller.
At ObermtUen the first dis-
covery of lake - dwellings was
made in 1854. Stations Vetikon,
A/annedor/" (Wilder Mann), and —
St&fa (pop. 3874; Sontht;
Rossli ; Restaur. zumSeethaly with
garden), the largest village on
the N. bank and noted for the
prominent part it has always
taken in all national movements.
Near Stafa the lake attains its
greatest breadth (272 M.). Fine
view of the S. bank. Stations
Kehlhofj Uerikon, Schirmensee
(Rossli). On the right are the
to Coire,
LAKE OF ZURICH.
14, RouU, 39
Lbit (W. a S.) BAm.
oo the S. bank (Hotel , pension
5fr.). To the E., in the back-
ground, rises the Speei (p. 42);
to the left of it the Sentis, beyond
which tower the Toggenburg Mts . ;
to the light, above the lake, the
wooded Hohe Rhonen (40429, and
farther distant the mountains of
Glarus (comp. Keller's panorama).
(2 hrs.) Wadeiuwyl (1348' ;
pop. 6206; *Engelj facing the
quay, R. 1V2-2V2» B- !> pens.
5 fr. ; Hotel duLac)is the largest
village on the lake.
Railway to Einsiedeln^ see p. 92.
—Diligence twice daily in Ihr. 40 min.
via Behoenenberg to the whey-cure
resort of Hiitten (2428' ^ Bar; Oretu),
prettily situated above a small lake.
In a few minutes more the
steamer reaches Bichtergwyl
(pop. 3557; *Drei Konige, or
Post; *Engel')j the last station on
the S. bank.
To SCHINDELLBOI (p. 92) S^^ M.,
by (IH.) WoUerau (21/4 M. to the E. is
the prettily situated KurJuHU Fetuis-
^g). The nearer footpath (55 min.)
ascends to the right by the apothe-
cary's at the end of Eichterswyl,
crossing the road several times and
affording fine retrospects. By a large
wahiut-tree at the top of the first hill
we take the narrow path to the right.
The * Oottschallenberg (37437
n»ay be reached from Richterswyl by
the Stermchanze and the Zittersttg in
2Va hrs. \ comp. p. 92.
Right (£. & N.) Bank.
small flat islands of Lutzelau and
UfnaUy in front of the wooded
heights of the Etzel.
U/nau^ the property of the abbey
of Einsiedeln, contains a farm-house,
and a church and chapel consecrated
in 1141. Ulrich von HutteUy the re-
former, one of the boldest and most
independent men of his time, sought
refuge here when pursued by his
enemies in 1523, and died a fortnight
after his arrival, at the ase of 36. His
remains repose in the little church-
yard, but the exact spot is unknown.
BapperBwyl (pop. 2637 ;
*Cygne, on the lake, R. 1V2-2,
pens. 6'7fr. ; *H6ielduLcui, R.,
L., & A. 31/2 fr* ; Poatej at the
station , with garden ; *Freihof)y
a picturesquely situated town,
lies at the foot of the Lmdenhofy
a hill planted with limes (fine
view), on which rises a black
marble column with the Polish
eagle, erected in memory of the
beginning of the hundred years*
struggle of the Poles for indepen-
dence. The old SehlosSy restored
in 1871, contains the Polish JVa-
tional Museum^ founded by Count
R. Plater (adm. 1 fr. ; splendid
view from the tower). The Parish
Churchy re-erected since a Are in
1881, contains valuable sacred
vessels. Fine altar-pieces in the
Capuchin monastery.
In 1878 the old wooden bridge between Rapperswyl and Hurden was
replaced by the ''Seedamm, a viaduct 1024 yds. in length and 12 yds. in
width. Near the N. end are two iron bridges, each 47V« yds. long, and near
the 8. end a third, 95 yds. in length. There are also twenty other open-
ings, each 10 yds. wide, and a swing-bridge 15V2 yds. long, for the passage
of vessels. The Railway (from Rapperswyl to Pfaffikon, 3 M., in 1() min.),
the high-road, and a footway protected by a railing, cross the lake by
means of this embankment. A walk upon it is recommended for the sake
of the view. About 20 yds. below it, near the 8. bank, rises the Drei-
^dertteiny an obelisk 33' in height, marking the convergence of the
houndaries of the cantons of Zurich, Schwyz, and St. (fallen, and bearing
the arms of each.
On the upper part of the lake, which is grander and less thickly
peopled than the lower, the steamboats have ceased to ply.
■«w
40 BouU 14. WAGGITHAL. From Zurich
ii. Sailway on the Left (S.) Bank from Zfirich. to Ziegelbracke
(and Glami).
The train describes a wide curve roTind the town , crossing the
Sihl twice, passes under the Uetliberg line, and at (3 M.) Enge
(p. 32) approaches the lake, which it skirts all the way to Lachen,
affording beautiful views to the left. Stations Wollishofeny Bendli-
kon-Kilchberg, Riiscfdileonj Thalwyl (all described above), Oberrie^
den, and (11 M.) Horgen (p. 38). The peninsula of Au (station)
lies to the left. 15^2 M. Wadenswyl (railway to Einsiedeln, see
p. 92); 171/2 M. Bichterswyl. The lake attains its greatest width
here (2^2 M.). Towards the E. rise the mountains of the Toggen-
burg and Appenzell. To the left, farther on, are the Islands of
Ufnau and Lutzelau (p. 39). 21 M. Pfdfftkon (H6t. Hofe); railway
across the lake to Rapperswyl , see above. To the right , on the
slope above Altendorf, are the pilgrimage-chapel of 8t. Johann and
the Johannisburg Restaurant (pens. 4-5 fr.). At (25 M.) Lachen
{*0ch8j moderate) the train quits the lake. About 2 M. to the £. is
the small Bad NuoUn. Near (27'/2M.) Siebnen-Wangen we cross
the Wdggithaler Aa (see below).
Wftggithal. The road (omnibus from stat. Siebenen to the Eurhaus
in 272 hrs.) follows the left bank of the deep channel of the Aa to (4 M.)
Vorder-Wdggithal (2400'), pleasantly situated in a green basin. It then
leads through the defile of Stockerli^ between the Oroise Auberg (5584')
on the right and the Ougelberg (3780') on the left, to (4 M.) Hinter-
W&ggithaly or Innerthal (3800'), 'A M. beyond which we reach the 'Kur-
haus of that name (pens. 5'/2-6 fr.) with excellent drinking water, suitable
for a prolonged stay. Pleasant excursions to the Au (20 min.); £. to the
FldschenlochqueUe ('/'4 hr.); to the Aaberli-Alp (3616'), Va hr.; Hohfidtchen-
Alp (4726'), IV2 br. — The Grosse Auberg (5584'), ascended by the Barlauv-
Alp in 3 hrs., and the Fluhberg, or Diethelm (GSlS% by the FlUschli-Alp in
4 hrs., are good points of view and present no difficulty (guide desirable).
— From Innerthal to the Kldnthal a pleasant route (bridle-path ; to Bichisau
4 hrs. ; guide unnecessary). Skirting the ^lo&och , the path ascends, past
the Aabem-Alp (3566') and the Ober-A^ (5060'), to the (2 hrs.) Karrmegg,
or Sehweinalp-Pasa (5150'), and then descends by the BrUiehrAlp and the
Bchwein-Alp to C2 hrs.) RichUau (p. 64).
We now traverse a somewhat marshy plain to (31 M.) Reiehen^
burg. On the right rise the Glarus Mts., on the left the Untere and
Obere Buchberg (p. 41), and above them the Speer (p. 41). 34^2 M.
Bilten. We cross the Linth Canal (p. 41) to the Rapperswyl and
Coire railway at (36 M.) Ziegelbrucke (p. 42). Thence to (43 M.)
QlaruSj see p. 58.
iii. Railway ftom Zurich to Bapperswyl, Wesen, and Sargans.
From Zurich to (6 M.) Wallisellen, PP- 44, 45. The line traverses
a fiat district, near the right bank of the Glatt, which flows out of
the Qreifensee (1440' ; not visible from the line). Stations Duben-
dorfy Schwerzenbachj &nd Ndnikon. — 14 M. TJater (1530'; Stem;
Vsterhofi Kreuz), a large manufacturing village, with 6391 inhab.
'n the right is the church with its pointed spire, and the loftily
'iuated old castle with its massive tower, now the seat of the
toCoire, BAOHTEL. 14, Route. 41
district court (Restaur.; fine view). In the vicinity axe several large
cotton-mills, driven by the Aa, a brook near the railway. A little
to the N.E. of (16 M.) Aathal is the Lake of Pfdffikon (1775Q, of
which we obtain a glimpse beyond the third short tunnel. The Alps
of Glarus and Schwyz form the S. background. From (18 M.)
Wetzikon branch-lines diverge to the N.W. to Pfaffikon and Effreti-
kon (p. 46), and to the S.E. (in 10 min.) to Hinweil (Hirsch;
Kreuz), at the N.W. base of the Bachtel (see below). Near (21 M.)
Bubikon the line attains its highest level (18000. ^^72 M. Ruti,
with a former Prsemonstratensian abbey, is the junction of the Toss-
thai Line (p. 45).
The Baeht«l (367(X ; */»»); 2 hrs. N.E. of Biiti, commands a fine view
to the N.W. over the district of Uster sprinkled with factories, and the lakes
of Greifen and Pfaffikon; to the S. the Lake of Zurich from Wadenswyl
to the Linth Canal, the Linththal as far as the bridge of Mollis, and the
Alps trova. the Sentis to the Bernese Oberland. Consult Keller's Panorama
at the inn. From Wald (p. 45 j in V* br. from Riiti by rail), and from
Hinweil (see above ^ small carriage to the top 7fr.)) good paths lead to
the summit in l^/z hr.
Beyond a tunnel the train descends, chiefly through wood.
Near Jona (Schliissel), a pretty village almost adjoining Rappers-
wyl, we descry the Alps of Schwyz to the S., and farther on, the
Miirtschenstock, Schaniserberg, Speer, and Sentis on the left.
27 M. Sappenwyl, see p. 39. The station on the lake, near
the steamboat-pier, is a terminus , from which the train backs out
on its departure. (Branch-line to Pfaffikon^ see p. 39.) Views
to the right as far as Wesen. The line crosses the Jorm^ pass-
es the nunnery of Wurmapach on the right, and returns to the
bank of the lake near BoUingen. Extensive sandstone quarries in
the vicinity. In front of us towers the Miirtschenstock, above the
wooded hills on the lake (Untere Buchberg, see below), and to the
light of it are the Fronalpstock and the Schild near Glarus.
34 M. Schmerikon (*Rb8sli ; Seehof; Adler) lies at the head of
the lake. We now enter a broad valley traversed by the Linth
Canal, which falls into the lake here. To the right, on the N.E. spur
of the Untere Buchberg (1977'), in Canton Schwyz, stands the
ancient Schloss Orynau^ with a frowning square tower.
36 M. TJtraach(1378'-, *Ochs; Falke\ a manufacturing village,
lies on a hill to the left , surmounted by the church. (Diligence
to Wattwyl in the Toggenburg 4 times daily in 2^U hrs., p. 57.)
To the left, on the hill, the monastery of Sum (2317'). 36V2 M.
Kaltbrunfi'Benhen. The wooded range on the right is the Obere
Buchberg (2(m'). Near (391/2 M.)Soh&ni8 (1450'; •Hiracft; Krone),
another industrial place, the ancient frontier of Rhstia, several
sharp skirmishes took place between the French and the Austrians
in 1799.
We now approach the Linth Canaly constructed in 1807-22 by
Konrad Escher of Ziirich, connecting the Lake of Ziirich with the
Walensee, and, in conjunction with the Escher Canal, draining a
42 Route 14. WALENSEE. From Ziirieh
once dismal and swampy region. The canal rans parallel with the
road and the railway at the foot of the 8ehdniaer Berg (5470Q ; to
the right a striking view of the Valley of Glarus with its snow-
mountains.
On the opposite bank of the Linth Canal is the Linth-
CoUmiej originally a colony of poor people who kept the bed of
the river clear before the canal was made, and now an agricultural
institution. 42^2 ^* Ziegelbrucke (H6tel Berger) is the junction
of the Glarus line , which soon diverges to the right (p. 58). The
Wesen line passes through a cutting and rounds the Biberlikopf
(see below), the extreme spur of the Schaniser Berg. To the right
tower the Wiggis and the Glarnisch (pp. 58, 64). The station of
Wesen is V2 M. from the Walensee.
45 V2^- Wesen — Hotels. ^H5t£l Spbes, at the station, B., L., &
A. 23/4, B. i^/t, S. 2V4, pens. 7 fr. ; ^Schwebt, prettily situated on the lake,
B. 2, pens. 6 fr. ; ^Hotel Maaiahalden, higher up on the slope, with fine
view, pens. 6-7 fr. ; ^Bossli, pens, i-ii/s fr* Various less pretending inns
in the ^Flp\ the quarter of the village extending along the lake, with num-
erous gardens. — Bail. Rettaur,
Wesen (1410'), a favourite summer resort, lies in a sheltered
situation at the W. end of the Walensee. The Klosterberg yields
good wine.
ExcuBSioNs. Shady paths ascend from the Fly and the Hotel Maria-
halden to the (20 Hin.) Kapfenherg^ which affords a charming survey. —
Pleasant walk (from the station 3/4 hr., or from stat. Ziegelbrucke 20inin.)
to the top of the * Biberlikopf (1896'); fine view of the Walensee and
of the Linththal up to Netstall and down to the Buchberg.
A new road with fine views of the lake, but destitute of shade, ascends
from Wesen to (IV4 hr.) Amden or Ammon (2874' 5 Sirsch)^ loftily situated
on sunny pastures. Host beautiful view at a small chapel to the right
of the road, */* hr. from Wesen (refr.). — From Amden to the top of
the Leistkamm (68900, 3V2hrs., interesting, and not difficult. — From Amden
to Slarkenbach or Stein in the Toggenburg (p. 57), over the Amdener Berg
(5056'), a route of 5 hrs., with beautiful views, but fatiguing on account
of the stone pavement.
The ^Speer (6417'), an admirable point of view, 4V2-5 hrs. (guide unne-
cessary for experts). At the church we turn to the left, and ascend for
the first V2 bi"* over rough pavement of conglomerate (pleasant retrospects
of the lake). Then a steep ascent through woods and meadows; 2 hrs.
Uniere BUtz-Alp (3563'): ^k\yt. Unter-Kasem Alp (43370; 1 hr. Ober-Kasem
Alp (5404'; *Inn Zum Hohen Speer). Thence to the top a steep ascent of
^4 hr. more. Beautiful view, especially of E. and N.E. Switzerland. From
Mnat or Neislau (p. 57) the Speer is easily ascended in 3Vr4 hrs.
The ♦Walensee, or Lafc« o/" Wai^natadt (1394'), 91/4 M. long,
11/4 M. wide, and 495' deep, is hardly inferior to the Lake of
Lucerne in mountainous grandeur. The N. bank consists of
almost perpendicular precipices, 2000' to 3000' high; on the E.
rise the barren peaks of the seven Curfirsten (^Leistkamm 6890',
Selun 7240', Friimsel 7434', Brisi 7477', Zuatoll 7336', Seheiben-
stoll 7556', and Hinterruck 7523'). The hamlet of Quinten alone has
found a site on the N. bank. On the S. bank also the rocks, pierced
by nine tunnels, are very precipitous at places. At the mouths of the
>mall torrents which descend from the Murtschenatock (8012'), lie
to Coire. HURG. 14. Boute. 43
seTeral tillages. The names of the hamlets, Primseh, OunZy Tenerhj
Qmrten, the above-mentioned Quintenf and that of the lake itself>
indicate that the inhabitants are of Rhsetian or Latin, and not Ger-
manic origin.
Beyond Wesen we cross the Linth Canal by an iron bridge (the
Olaras line, diverging to the right, see R. 19), traverse the broad
valley, cross the Escher Canal (p. 58) near its influx into the
Walensee, and pass through two tunnels with apertures in the side
next the lake. Beyond them we observe the Bayerbach waterfall
on the opposite bank , and the village of Amden (p. 42) on the
hill above ; then the fklls of the Serenbach, which are copious after
rain, but sometimes disappear in summer. Three more tunnels,
between which we obtain pleasant glimpes of the lake and the
waterfalls and precipices opposite. 50 M. TixCblehom (TeUaplatte ;
*8eegarien, on the lake; Muhle, all unpretending). To the right
rises the bald Murtsehenstoek (see below).
Fbom MdHLEHOBH TO HoLLis (8Vs H.), ftn interesting walk. The road
leads over the Kerensen-Berg , by (2V2 K.) Obstalden (2237'^ "Hirscb,
with shady garden, 'pens/ bVa fr. \ •Stem) and (iV* M.) FiUbach (2336'^
Rossli), a village near the highest part of the route (by the Spannegg
to Glaruty see p. 59). From a rock on the right, about V^ ^* farther,
we enjoy an admirable *View of the Walensee, the Seezthal Mts., the
valley of the Linth Canal, bounded on the left by the Ilirzti (5387'), and the
valleys of Glarus with the Wiggis and Glarnisch. Much of our route now
passes through wood, l^ear (3 M.) Beglingen we get a glimpse of the
snow'fields ot the Todi, and then descend in windings (avoided by short-
cats) to (1 H.) Mollis (p. 58).
Two more tunnels (to the left, Quintenf see p. 42). 51 M.
Kvrg (^Roaali, *8chiffli, pens, at both 4 fr. ; Kreuz , all rustic),
charmingly situated at the mouth of the Murgthal.
A visit to the ^Xurgthal, a valley 10 H. long, is recommended (guide
unnecessary). The path ascends rapidly, past the Rossli, as far as (20 min.)
a "Waterfall below a bridge, which we do not cross (or we may cross
the bridge and return to Murg by the pleasant path on the other side). In
20 min. more we reach another bridge, and cross it. After a steep ascent
of */4 hr. on the left bank the path returns to the Murg and crosses it by
a third bridge at the 0/s br.) beginning of the MerUnalp (36400- It then
ascends a pleasant valley, through meadows and wood, to the (2V2 hrs.)
three Murffteen (5488', d95ff, and 5980*). From the highest lake the «Both.
thor (8248') may be ascended in 2 hrs. (guide desirable •, the fisherman
or a herdsman)^ striking view (W. the Glarnisch, S.W. the Todi, S.E. the
Calanda, £. the Scesaplana, K. the Sentis and Gnrfirsten, I^.W. the hill-
conntry of Ziirich). — From the highest lake a fatiguing path crosses the
Wideratein-Furkel (66070 to the deep JiUhlebachthal and (2V2 hrs.) Engi
in the Sernfthal (p. 66) ; another (gnide required) leads over the Knrgsee-
^kel (65680 to the MUrtschenalp (6060*), past the MUrtschenstock and
fronalpstoek, to the ffeuboden-Alp (p. 69), and (5 hrs.) Olarut. — Ascent
of the Kiirtschenstoek (80120 laborious, fit for experts only, with a guide -,
nukgnificent view.
Beyond Murg another tunnel ; above, to the right, the village of
Quarten (ITe^Q with a new church. 5372^. t/ntcrtcrzcn (Freieck;
Zur Blumenau). On the steep rocks of the opposite bank several
waterfalls are visible ; to the right , the village of Mola. Then a
tunnel. We now reach the K. end of the lake and cross the
Seez-Canal,
44 Route 14, WALENSTADT.
56 M. Waleiutadt (1394'; HoUl Ckurfirsten, at the station,
B. & A. 21/2 fr. ; Seehofy on the lake, R. lYgj pension 4fr. ; Hirsch,
in the village) lies ^2^* ^'Oi^ Staad or Wcdengeatad^ at the E. end
of the lake.
ExcnssioN (with gaide) from Walenstadfc by a steep path through
wood to the (2 hrs.) Alp Ldns; then, nearly level, to the Alp BUls uid (>/« hr.)
the Tschingeln-Alp (50fi)'; milk)^ follow the slopes of the Curfirsten to the
(IV4 hr.) Alp BchwaldU (4774') and return by Alp SehHnen (42060 to (IV2 hr.)
Walenstadt; or proceed from Alp Schwaldis to the Salt- Alp (46620) descend
by the BtaftU to the (1 hr.) Laubegg Alp (45O40 and thence by a steep
path, but free from danger, to (IVz hr.) Quinten (p. 43), whence the lake is
crossed by boat to Murg. — To Wildhacs in the Toggenburg (p. 57) a
rough path, with splendid views, crosses the K&»erruek (7436'; 6 hrs.;
guide necessary).
We now ascend the bioad valley of the Seez. On a lock to the
right, the ruins of Qtctpiang (Romanic Crap Long'), or Langenatein ;
to the left, on a rocky height above BdrschUy the pilgrimage-chureh
of 8t. Oeorgen. 58 M. Flwns (H6t. Bahnhof ; Lowe). Near (64 M.)
Mela (1637'; MtUerhof, at the station; Frohsinn) the Seez de-
scends firom the WeUatannen-Thal, a valley to the S.W.
The ^Alvier (7753')) au admirable point of view, may be ascended
hence in 5 hrs. (guide unnecessary for adepts). The path ascends from
the station to the right to the (3 hrs.) Alp Palfries (5364'; Kurhaus, plain),
traverses steep and rocky slopes, and (2 hrs.) reaches the summit through
a narrow cleft by steps cut in the rock (Club-hut, room for 30 pers.).
The magnificent view embraces the Rhine Valley, the Bheetikon, and the
Vorarlberg, Appenzell, and Glarus Mts. (good panorama by Simon). ,Good
paths ascend from Flums, Sevelen, Buchs, and Triibbach (comp. p. 328).
Fbok Msls to Vattis, through the Weiatannen-Thal and Kalfeuser Thai
(10-11 hrs.). Road to (8 M.)"Weis«tannen (3270'; ^(penfto/; ffom^K). Thence
(with guide), by Unter-LavUna (4289^) and the Alp Val TUseh (6043'), in
4 hrs. to the Heidelpass (7306'), between the Seezherg and the Heideltpitz
(8619'), where we have a fine view of the huge Sardona Glacier, the
Trinserhorn, and Ringelspitz. Descent into the Kalfeuser TJuil, to the
Tamina bridge near St. Martin (4433") 2 hrs., and to Vdttis (p. 332) 2 hrs.
more. — From Weisstannen to Elm by the Foo or Jtamin Pass, see p. 66.
At (65 M.) Sargans (1590'; *H6tel Thoma, at the station;
Rail, Restaur, ; Krone and Lowe in the town) we reach the Rhine
Valley and the Rorschach and Coire line. The little town, 3^4 M.
to the N.W., rebuilt since a fire in 1811, lies picturesquely at the
foot of the Gonzen (p. 328), and is commanded by an old castle.
Railway from Sargans by Ragatz to (79 M.) Coire, see R. 87.
15. From Zurich to Eomanshom and Friedrichshafen.
Comp. Maps, pp. 36, 22, 26.
Railway to Romanshorn (51 M.) in 3 hrs. (8 fr. 65, 6 fr. 5, 4 fr. 35 c).
Steamboat thence to Friedrichshafen in 1 hr. (1 m. 20 or 80 pf.) -, to Lin-
dau in IV2 hr. (2 m. 25 or 1 m. 50 pf. ; see p. 26).
The train crosses the 8ihl, ascends in a wide curve, crosses
the Limmat, and passes under the Kdferherg by a tunnel 1020 yds.
long. 3 M. Oerlikon (1443' ; Rail. Restaur.).
From Oeblikon to Dielsdorf, 12 M., railway in 35 min. Stations
Glattbrugg^ RUmlang, and (8V2 M.) Oberglatt, the junction for Ifiederglatt
nd (41/2 M.) Billach (see p. 45). Then (IOV2H.) mederhasli and (12 H.) Dieh-
WINTERTHUR, 75. RouU, 45
itrf (1505'; Sonne; Post), the terminus of the line, IVsM. below the pret-
tily situated old town of Kegensherg (2024'; *Krone)y on the E. spur of the
ligemgebirge (p. 18). Fine view from the tower of the old castle (now
an institiition for boys of weak intellect); still more extensive from the
Hochwacht (2828% 1 lir. farther on.
The line crosses the Qlait. At (6 M.) WaUiselUn (Linde) the
Rapperswyl line diverges to the right (see p. 40). Fine view of
the Glarus Alps. 71/2 M. DieUikon; IOV2M. EffreUkon (branch-
line to Wetzikon and HinweU, p. 41); 13 M. Kemptthal. Near
Winterthur the Toaa is crossed. On a hill to the left, the ruins of
Hoch- WiUflingen (1962').
16 M. Winterthur (1447'; pop. 13,595; *Ooldner Lowe, R.&A.
2V21 1). 3 1/2^'' > ^Krone ; *Adler ; *Rail, Restaur. ')y on the Eulach, is an
industrial and wealthy town and an important railway-junction. The
new ^Stadthaus was designed by Semper. The large School (with
statues of Zwingli, Gessner, Pestalozzi, and Sulzer), on the Pro-
menade, contains the town-library and a few small Roman anti-
quities found near Ober- Winterthur (Vitodurum, p. 30). The
environs yield good wine. — In the Tossthal (see below;, 41/2 M.
to the S. , is the old ch&teau of Kyburg (2070'), commanding a line
view, and containing a collection of pictures.
Fbok Wintkbthub to Waldshut, 32 M., railway in 2 hrs. The
line traverses the TOssthal. Stat. TSu. Wit^flingtn^ ^ungen-Nefienhaeh^
Embrach-Rorbas, The train leaves the Toss and passes through a
tunnel (1980 yds.). IOV2 H. Biilach (1374'; Kopf; Kreuz), a small town
near the Olatty once fortified (branch-line to Oberglaft and Otelfingen^
p. 18). The line runs through the Hardwald to the N. to Olati/elden and
(13Vs M.) Eglitau; the latter (Lowe; Hirsch) with its castle lies on the
right bank of the Rhine. We now follow the left bank of the Rhine and
cross the Glatt. Stat. Zweidlen; 19 M. Weiacih- Kaiser stuhl ^ an old town
with a massive tower; on the right bank SeMots Rdleln^ and farther on,
the ruins of Weis»-W<userstelz. Stat. Rilmikon, Reckingen, Zurxach^ and
(30 M.) Koblenz^ where the Rhine is crossed to (32 M.) Waldshut^ p. 22.
Fbok WurrBBTHUB TO RuTi, 29 Vs M., in 2-3 hrs., by the T6uthalb<ihn.
Stations QrUte and Seen. Near (D M.) Sennhof we enter the pretty TUssihal
(hence to the Kyburg, 26 min., see above). Stations Kollbrunn, with large
factories; Rykon, Zell, (10 M.) Turbenthal (Bar), Wyla, Saland, (16 M.)
Bauma (Tanne), all thriving industrial places. Then Steg, Fischenthal,
Oibswyl-Ried. From the last, situated on the water -shed, the Bachtel
may be ascended in 1 hr. Then through the pictaresque valley of the
Jona to (25 M.) Wald (Ldwe; Rdssli), a place of some, size at the S. E.
foot of the Bachtel (p. 41). At (29Vs M.) RUti we join the Zurich and
Rapperswyl line (p. 41).
From Winterthur to Sehqfhauten, see R. 12; to St. Oallen and Ror-
tduteh, see R. 16; to Contttmce, see R. 11.
The Romanshorn line traverses the green and fertile Thurgau,
20 m. Wiesendangen ; 24 M. lalikon,
26 M. Framenfeld (1340'; pop. 5811; ^Falke; *H6U Bahn-
hof) , on the Murg , with large cotton-factories, is the capital of
the Thurgau. The handsome Schlosa on an ivy-clad rock is said to
have been built by a Count of Kyburg in the 11th cent.
29 M. Felben. Near (32^/2 M. ) MiUlheim the train crosses the
Thur by a covered wooden bridge. 35 M. Mdrstetten ; 37^/2 M. Wein-
felden (1463'). To the left Schloss Weinfelden (1850' ; yiew), on
46 Route 16. FLAWYL. From Zurich
the vine-clad Ottmberg. 39^2 M. Burglen; 41 M. Bulgen (1684'.
Post).
Fboh SuLOBir TO GosSAU, 14V2 M., railway in 67 min. (Ifr. 65, Ifr.
15 c.). The line traverses the pretty valley of the Thur. Stations Kra-
dolf, mtei'ihal. 6 M. Biachofxell (1653'; Linde; Sehuiert)^ a small town at
the confluence of the Thur and Sitter; then Hauptweil^ Amegg^ Oossau
(see below).
Stations Erlen ^ Amriswyl, and (51 M.) Bomanshom (1322';
*H6tel Bodan; Falke; Jager; *Rail. Restaur.^, on a promontory on
the Lake of Constance. Station on the quay (p. 29). The lake and
Friedrichshafen^ see p. 27.
16. From Ziirich to Bt. Oallen, Borschachy and
Lindan.
Comp. Mapsj pp. 36^ 50^ 26.
Railway to 8t. QalUn (52V2M.) in 3 hrs. (8 fr. 80. 6 fr. 20, 4 fr. 40 c);
to Borsehach (62 M.) in 3V4 hrs (10 fr. 20, 7 fr. 20, 5 fr. 10 c). Steamboat
from Rorschach to Lindau in IV4 hr. (Im. 65 or Im. iOpf.)«
From Zurich to (16 M.) WinUHhur, see pp. 44, 45. The St.
Gallen railway is unattractive. The Gurflrsten gradually appear to
the S., and the Appenzell Mts. to the S.E.
2OV2 M. RaUrschen; 24 M. Elgg (2012'; Ochs; Lowe). To
the S. (4 M.) is the Schauenberg (2930'; fine view), on the S.W.
slope of which lies the Oyrenbad (2430'), with an alkaline spring.
Stations Aadorf (Linde), Eschlikon, Sirnach. 341/2 M. Wyl (1936' ;
Hotel Bahnhof), a pleasant Uttle old town; fine view from the
station of the Appenzell and Glarus Alps. Branch-line to Ebnaty
see p. 57.
The train crosses the Thur by an iron bridge, near the old
castle of Sehwarzenbach. 39^/2 M. Vtzwyl, the station for Nieder-
Vtzwyl on the left, and Ober - Vtzwyl on the right. (Near the
former, I3/4 M. from the station, is the hydropathic Kurhaus of
Buchenthat). 43 M. Flawyl (2020'; *Ro88li; Post), a large manu-
facturing village. The Olatt is crossed. 46 M. Oossau (Hdt. Bahn-
hof; branch-line to Bischofzell a,iid. SulgeUj see above); 481/2 M.
Winkeln (Kreuz).
FsoM Winkeln to Appenzell, 16 H., in iVa br., by the narrow-gauge
Appenzell Railway. The line passes the Heinrichsbad (* Kurhaus, with
chalybeate spring, whey-cure, etc.). 3 M. Earisan (2560'; 11,090 inhab. ;
LHwe; 8torch% a thriving town with extensive muslin-factories and a dock-
tower attributed to the 7th century. 5V2 M. Waldstatt (2700'; Hirsch ; Pens.
Sentisblick), with a chalybeate spring and whey-cure. Then through the
UrnOsch Valley, by ZilrchersmUhle., to (9V4 M.) TJrntooh (2746'; ^ Krone;
Seh^e). About Vs V. above Urnasch is the primitive spa of RosenkQgel
(28^')* Beyond tJrnasch the train passes the (,iV/t M.) Jacobsbad (to the
E.), with its mineral spring (good quarters) and continues visl (13 H.)
Gonten (2970'; Bar) and (14 M.) Oontenbad (2925*), a well-managed whey-
cure establishment, with a chalybeate spring, to (16 M.) Appenzell (p. 53).
— Ascent of the Sentis from Urnasch, see p. 55. Over the Krdzern-Pass
to Neu-St. Johann, see p. 57.
We now cross the deep \alley of the Sitter by a handsome iron
"bridge, 207 yds. long, and 174' above the river. A little lower
to Lindau, ST. GALLEN. IS. Route, 47
down is the Krdzembruche j with its two stone arches, bnilt in
iSiO. 60 M. Bruggen.
52^2 ^- ^^ €kdlen. —- Hotels. *Hbcht, good caiaine, D., inch wine,
S"/? fr.; •H6t. Stiegeb; *Hir8ch, R. & A. 2V2, D. 3 fr. 5 *8chiff, Ochb, less
expensive. — Gafis. Cafi-Rettaurarit Bdrse^ Pavilion, Trischli^ all three
with gardens^ Ca/4 National; Walhalla, opposite the station. — Baths of
all kinds at the LOchlihad and at the ''Paradiei\ — Havannah Cigars at
Beckys, Bahnhof-Str. 10. — Embr<fidery at A. Naefs.
8t. Oallen or St, QaU (2165'), one of the highest-lying of the
larger towns of Europe, the capital of the canton of that name, and
since 1846 an episcopal see, is one of the chief industrial towns
in Switzerland, embroidered cotton goods being its staple product.
Pop. 21,438.
The Benedictine Abbey, founded in the 7th cent, by St. Gal-
lus, an Irish monk, and suppressed in 1805, was one of the most
famous seats of learning in Europe from the 8th to the 10th cen-
tury. The extensiye buildings now accommodate the Cantonal
offices , the Roman Catholic technical school , the bishop's resi-
dence, and the Library. The last (open Mon., Wed., and Sat., 9-
12 and 2-4) contains many valuable MSS. (including a psalter of
Notker Labeo of the 10th cent, and a Nibelungenlied of the iSth
cent.) ; of those mentioned in a catalogue of the year 823 about 400
still exist.
The Abbey Churchy rebuilt in 1755 in the rococo style, contains
good ceiling - frescos and finely carved choir -stalls. The Gothic
Church of St. Lawrence (Prot.), to the N. of the abbey-church,
has been restored (1850-54) and embellished with a handsome
tower, and stained glass by Qsell of Paris.
The large School House in the Vordere Briihl contains the Town
Library (^^Vadianiache Bibliothek^ ; open Tues., Thurs., and Sat.,
2-4), which boasts of valuable MSS., chiefly of the Reformation
period. Near it, in the Museums-Str., by the Grosse Briihl, is the
Mueeum, containing the municipal collections. On the ground-floor
are extensive Natural History Collections (open Sun., 10-12 and
1-3, Wed. and Frid., 1-3), and on the first floor the Picture Oallery
of the Kunstverein (works by KoUer, Diday, Makart, A. Feuerbach,
Ritz, S'chirmer, and others), and the collections of the Historical
Society (open Sun., 10-12 and 1-3, Wed., 1-4; at other times, for
l-4per8., 50c.). The E. wing is devoted to the Industrial and
Trade Aft«5cwm (open Sun., Tues., Wed., and Sat., 10-2 and 2-4).
Behind the museum is the Public Park ; farther on in the Rorsch-
aeher Strasse , are the Town Hospital , to the right , and the Can-
tonal Hospital y to the left. In the neighbourhood, to the W. , in
the Arboner Strasse, on the left bank of the Steinach, is the
extensive CanJtonal Prison.
Excursions. The *Freudenberg (280i'^ Inn*, carriage with one horse
0 fr.), IVs V. to the S.E., commands a charming view of the Lake of
Constance as far as Lindau*, in the foreground lie St. Gallen and the
surrounding country, dotted with houses, to the S. the Sentis chain, the
48 BouUie. RORSCHACH. From Zurich
Glarnisch, Todi, etc. — The * Vdgeliugg (41/2 M. ; p. 5!^ and the *FrmcTu-
egg (4 H. ; p. 56) also afford fine views. — From the Kurzegg inn on
the road to Vogelisegg a fine view of the Bodensee. Near it, the nunnery of
Jfotkersegg (2567')- — To the Bosenberg (2445') with the Kurgenhurg^ a
deaf-and-dumb institution (view to the S.W.)i walk along the hill to the
(»/4 hr.) inn of SB. Peter and Paul (2628'; view). — Across the pastures to
the Bemegg (2757' ; Inn), with view of the Sentis, and back by the Teufen
road (2 H.). — Kronbiihl (2033'; Inn), on the Arbon road, with a view of
the Lake of Constance. — Untere and Obere Waid, two health-resorts, 3 M.
to the N.E., with splendid view of the lake of Constance (diligence from St.
Fiden, see below). — Bruggen and the *SitterbrUeke (p. 46), by rail, in 8 min.
— MarHMtoh$l and Mottelischloss^ see below. — To Trogerij Oais^ Appen-
zelli Weisibad (B. 17), one-horse carr. there and back 13 fr., a pleasant
day's excursion.
From St. Gallen the line descends through a long cutting to
(531/2 M.) 8t Fiden (Sonne), and enters the wild valley of the
Steinach. Embankmehts and cuttings are traversed in rapid suc-
cession. Nearly the whole Lake of Constance is frequently visible,
and Friedrichshafen is conspicuous on its N. bank. — Turning now
to the right, the line crosses the Ooldach by a bridge of five arches
near (6672 M.) Morschwyl (•Pens. Gallusberg, near the station},
and traverses a fertile district to Rorschach. There are two stations
at Rorschach, the first 72^* ^^^^ ^^^ town, and the terminus at the
harbour.
62 M. BOTBCliach. — Skehof, on the lake, B., L., & A. 31/2, B. IV4,
D. 4 fr. 5 ^Ankeb, B., L., & A. 2V2, B. 1 fr. -, •Hiesch, moderate ; Badhof ; *H6t.
BoDAK) Schiff; Hotex Bahnhof; Post^ ^Gsdveb Baum, with garden on
the lake *, "^Schaflb, with garden, moderate \ Zdb Toggbnbubq ; BdssLs ;
Zdb Ilge; Ochs, with brewery. — *'Rail. Restaurant, with a balcony and
view of the lake. Beer at StierUn'^t, behind the station, and at the Falke
(with B.). — Private apartments reasonable. — Sixths at Notter''s estab.,
on the lake \ *Lake Baths 1/4 M. to the W. ; bath with towel 35 c.
Borsehach (iM2' 'y pop. 4368), a busy town on the Bodensee,
chiefly important for its com trade, is also a summer resort (lake-
baths and whey-cure).
Bail way to CotVe, see p. 327-, to Bregenz and LindaUy see p. 406; to
Heiden, see p. 60^ to Constance, see p. 29.
ExGDBsioNS. Above Borschach rises the old abbey of Marienbarg, with
handsome cloisters, now a school. The view from the Bobsghachbb Bebg,
the green orchard-like hill behind the town, embraces the whole lake,
with the Vorarlberg Mts. and the Bhaetikon chain. Its summit, the ^Bosa-
biihel (Inn), may be reached in IV4 hr. from Borschach (boy to show the way
desirable). The whole hill-side is intersected by roads, which afford a great
many pleasant walks. The St. Anna Schloss, since 1449 the property of
the Abbots of St. Gallen, has been partly restored (*Bestaur.)} fine view
from the upper rooms. The road, which is steep towards the end, takes
about 3/4 hr. frdm the station. The view from the Jdgerhaus^ V2 ^^'
farther up, is still more extensive (Inn, good wine).
To the Uartinstobel and Mottelischloss and back, 3 hours. By the St.
Gallen railway to 8t. Fiden^ see above. Below the station we take the road
to Neudorf (brewery on the left), descend the high-road, and diverge to the
right by the Heiden road into the ^Martinstobel, the gorge of the Ooldach,
spanned by an iron bridge 1(X)' high. Here at the beginning of the 10th cent,
the monk Notker composed his ^ Media vita in morte sumus*, upon se^ng
a man accidentally killed. Beyond the bridge we ascend the road to the
left, passing the debris of a landslip which took place in 1845, to Untereggen
(Schafle), and thence descend the Goldach road as far as a road leading
through a grassy dale to. the right to the ^MdtteUBohloaa. This was for>
to Lmdau. LINDAU. 16. BouU, 49
merly the seat of the Barons of Sulzberg, of whom it was purchased by
the wealthy li&tUli family of St. Gallen, and after various vicissitudes it has
BOW fallen into disrepair. ^'View from the new platform on the top (gratuity),
one of the finest near the ]ake. Pleas ant wailc back to Rorschach through
tbe Witholz 0/t hr.). — To Tubaeh , surrounded by fruit-trees , and the
Castle of Steinach about 1 hr. — By the *Obere Weg\ with fine views.
the fine park); splendid view from the Steinerne Ti»eh, above the eh&teau
(return vi& Thai and Mheineek, p. 327). — To Beiden^ see p. 50.
To THB MBi.DBoe. Railway to (1/4 hr.) Rheineck; then a good road
(diligence twice daily in 1 hr. 6 min. ; shorter footpath in >/4 hr.) to (2i/s M.)
Walzenhausen (2307'; "Kurhaug; *H6t.-PeM. RheinburfffSy^tr.)^ a summer
resf^ in a sheltered situation, with pleasant wood-walks and fine points
of view. Road thence to (i^/s M.) the monastery of Orimmenstein; then a
path to the left to the 0/4 hr.) '*Keldegg, a rocky height at the angle of the
Rhine Valley, affording an admirable survey of the valley and the Boden-
see. (Tavern in summer.) We may then descend to (V« hr.) St. Marga-
rethen (p. 327) or (Vs hr.) Au (p. 827) and return by the last train to Rorschach.
At Horn (on the lake, IV2 M. K.W.; railway, see p. 29) there are a large
Hotel A £ath-Jiou$e (pension 6 fr.), and the Sieinbock inn. Visitors are also
received at the Schloss, near the baths, to the left of the road.
To Lindau hy steamer (1 Y4 lir-j fare lm.65 or 1 m. 10 pf. ; table
d'h6te 2 m.), comp. p. 26. To the S.E. is Bregenz at the foot of
the Pfander; in the background the RhaBtikon chain; on the W.
side of the Rheinthal rise the Appenzell Mts. and the Sentis.
Lindau. — ^Batbischkb Hof, R., L., A A. 34, D. 8 m.; ^-Kbonb,
or Post , R. 2 m. ; *HdTEL Rbutbmank, •Lindaubb Hop, both on the lake ;
Helvbtia, moderate; Bad-HStel; Sonne; G&btchbn auf deb Maueb, a
pension on the mainland. SehHteengarten^ a restaurant with view; adjacent
to it, Rupflin (wine); Rail. Restaurant. — Lake Baths on the N.W. side
of the town, in the inner arm of the lake.
Lindau., the terminus of the Bavarian S.W. Railway (express
to Augsburg 6, to Munich 51/2 hrs.), once an imperial town and
fortress, and in the middle ages a thriving commercial place, lies
CD an island in the Lake of Constance, connected with the main-
land by a railway-embankment and by a wooden bridge, 356 yds.
long. Lindau is said to have been the site of an ancient Roman
fort, to which the venerable tower near the bridge perhaps belong-
ed. On the quay is a monument to King Max II. (d. 1864), in
bronze, designed by Halbig. At the end of the S. pier, on a
granite pedestal 33' high, is placed an imposing lion in marble, 20'
in height, also by Halbig. The top of the Lighthouse on the N.
pier commands a fine view (adm. 1 m.). In the Relchsplatz, near
the lake, a handsome fountain with a bronze figure of 'Lindauia'
and other allegorical figures, designed by Thiersch and Riimann,
was erected in 1884.
ExcUBsioNs. Pleasant walk on the bank of the lake towards the W.
(cross the railway embankment and turn to the left), passing the villas
of Lotzheck (pretty park), Oiebelbach^ Lingg (*Fre3cos by Naue), and
others, to the (V4 M.) Schachenbad (Pens. Freihof), and the (Vi M.) Linden-
hof (or Villa Gruber), with its beautiful grounds and hot-houses (adm. on
Frid. gratis} at other times 1 m., tickets at the Schachenbad; closed on
Sun.). About J/a M. farther is the ch&teau of Aluind, — Beautiful view
Babdekeb, Switzerland. i2th Edition. 4
50 Route 17, APPKNZELL. The Canton
from the (Vshr.) *Hoierb«rg (1496*), which is reached by a path skirting
the railway, or by the road by Aesch€ush (Schlatter) to the village of Hoirenj
at the foot of the vine-clad hill. Two inns and a belvedere on the top.
We may then return by Bntineeiier (^Bchmid's Bestanr.) and Sehachen
(Zum Schlossle). — To Bregtnt, see p. 406.
17. The Canton of Appenzell.
The GantoB of Appenaell cannot vie in grandeur with many other parts
of Switzerland , but it includes within a small space most of the charact-
eristics of the country. It boasts of SwitBerland^ largest lake, of an almost
southern vegetation, of great industrial prosperity, of the richest pastures,
and even of lofty snow-mountains. The finest points are Heidtn^ 8t. Antom^
Wtidkin^liy Ehenalp^ the Hohe KasteUy and the 8eniu. The new Appenzell
railway has greatly facilitated the access to the last.
■ This canton, which is entirely surrounded by that of St. Gallen, was
divided after the religious wars of 1597 into two half-cantons, Anaaer-
Bhoden and Inner-Bl&oden, and to this day party-feeling on religious ques-
tions is very strong. Inneb-Bhodbn , which consists of pasture-land and
is 63 sq. M. in area, is almost exclusively Roman Catholic, and down to
1848 permitted no Protestants to settle within its limits ; even Roman Gafho-
lics who were not natives of the canton were strictly excluded. This restric-
tion was nominally rescinded by an article of the Federal consitution in
1848, but little change has practically taken place. Population 12,814, of
whom 545 only are Protestants. Aubses-Rhodbn (90 sq. H., 51,968 inhab.,
3594 Rom. Cath.) belongs to the Reformed Church ; one-fourth of its popula-
tion is engaged in the cotton and silk manufacture, chieflyfor firms at St.
Gallen. "So government official receives a salary exceeding 200 fr. per annum.
The popular assembly ('Landsgemeinde') is held on the last Sunday in April,
in even years at Trogen, in uneven at Hundwyl \ every male inhabitant of
Appenzell above the age of 18 is required to be present under a penalty of
10 fr. ; and about 12,000 persons assemble on the occasion.
The contrast between these two divisions of the canton in habits,
manners, and costume is very marked. Aiuier-Rhode^ is characterised
by the enterprising and prosperous condition of its inhabitants, many of
whom are even affluent. Almost every house has its loom , the products
of which often exhibit extraordinary taste and skill , and were objects of
admiration at the London and Paris Industrial Exhibitions. The rearing of
cattle is here quite a subordinate occupation. The inhabitants of Inner-
Rhoden^ on the other hand, generally occupy scattered cottages and huts;
they are, according to Aferian (1650), 'a rough, hardy, homely, and pious
folk'' ; their costume is picturesque and primitive, and cattle-breeding and
cheese-making are their chief pursuits.
Whey-cure Sstablishmenta in the Canton of Appenzell : Oais^ WeUsbad^
Heiden^ Oonten, Waldstatt. etc. The goats'* whey is prepared on the pastures of
the Sentis \ the milk is heated, and the whey separated from it by the ad-
dition of rennet. The whey (^Schotten') thus prepared is of a yellowish-green
colour, semi-transparent, entirely free from caseine, but rich in saccharine
matter. The process takes place at night. Early in the morning the goat-
herds carry the hot whey on their backs to the different establishments be-
low. The whey-makers have about 600 goat on the Sentis, and even buy
goats'* milk from other districts, to supply the hotel-keepers. After the sepa
ration of the whey, the cheese is manufactured in the ordinary manner.
Railway from Winieln to Appenzell in 1V2-2 hrs. ; from Rorschach to
Heiden in 55 min. — Diligence from Rheineck to Heiden twice daily in I3/4 hr. ;
from Heiden to Trogen twice daily in IV2 hr. 5 from AUstadten to OaU daily
in 2 hrs., to Appenzell in 2 hrs. 40 min.', from 8t. Oallen by Tevfen to
Oais 3 times daily in 2 hrs., to Appenzell in 2^/4 hrs. — Carriaflre from St.
Gallen to Trogen 6 fr. (34 pers. 10 fr.) , to Appenzell 9-16, Weissbad 10-
I6V2 fr. 5 half-fare more for the return.
The Bail-way f&om Robsohach to Hbibbn, 4^3 M. long, is
I
I
ofAppen%eU. HEIDEN. 17. Route. 51
oonstraeted on the rack - and - pinion system (maximum gradient
1 : 11). The train starts from the harhonr station (p. 48), stops at
the outer station, where the toothed rail begins, and then ascends
(views on the left) through orchards and Tineyards, affording charm-
ing glimpses of the lake. On the left, helow, is the picturesque
chateau of Wartegg^ on the light Wariensee, We then cross a ravine,
pass through a cutting, and traverse wood. Near (2^2 M.) stat.
Wienaehten (lOSOQ are large quarries of fossiliferous sandstone.
We cross the gorge of that name hy a lofty viaduct, ohtaining to the
left a beautiful view of the rich valley, with the mountains of the
Bregenzer Wald beyond, and the mouth of the Rhine below ; then
ascend through orchards and wood, past a deep ravine on the left, to
(3 M.) stat. 8chwendi, and skirt the wooded OoLgentobel in a wide
bend.
41/3 M. Heiden. — ^Fbeihof, R. a a. 3, B. 11/4, D. 3I^, board b^h fr.
per day, whey 80 c. ; ^SoHWxiZEBHor , B., L., AA. SVs, B. IV4, D. 3, S.
2 fr.^ 80MNBNHUOEL, at the upper end of the village, near the Kur-
halle; *LowE; Kbons, pens. 6fr. ; Lindb; *Zdm Pabadies; Zub Fbohen
Adssight, well spoken of. Lodgings at Tohler'^i^ the postmaster. Baths
in the QtuUenkof, — Viiitors" Ttuc for a stay of several days 1 fr. 30 c.
Htiden (2465' ; pop. 3192), a thriving village with substantial
houses, rebuilt since a Are in 1838, lies in the midst of sunny and
sheltered meadows, and is a favourite wheynsure resort. Mineral
water may also be procured. At the upper end of the village is a
tasteful KurhaUe, The gallery at the top of the tower of the new
church contains a good telescope , and affords a fine panoramic view,
including the Lake of Constance.
Walks. To the *Bellevue, a hill 20 min. to the S.E. , on the right
bank of the Ostaldenbach ^ with a beautiful view of Heiden and the
Lake of Constance, and in lOmin. more to the Sentisblick; S.W. to the
Hasenbiihl , BeneenrUti, and *8teinliy with a pavilion and charming view \
8. to Bisehofsberg (see below). To the W. , below the Grub road (see
below), the Kr&hmwald (pleasant grounds); N.W. (V4 hr.) the RoiiMihel
above Wienachien (see p. &\ tavern, good wine).
A road affording picturesque views leads from Heiden N.W. by Wolf-
halden (2322; Friedberg) to (372^0 Rhemeck (p. 327; diligence twice daily
in */4 hr.) ; another attractive road to the W. via Ontb^ Eggeraried , and
the Martimtobel (p. 48) to (8 M.) St. Gallen (p. 47). To Rortchach there
are besides the railway a pleasant footpath and a carriage road (i'/a hr.)
by Zelg and WiefMchten.
The * Chapel of St. Anthony C8i. AntHntbildT; 3635' ^ milk at the
neighbouring hut), iVi hr. 8. of Heiden , affords a famous view of the
Rhine Valley (preferable to that from the Eaien), Bregenz, Lindau, part
of the Bodensee, and the Vorarlberg and Appenzell Hta. One route to the
chapel is by Obereggf another, shorter, leads by the orphan-houses and
the Bitcho/$berg (see above). From the chapel to AlUtUdten (p. 328) IVs br.
The Kaieny IVi hr. S.W. of Heiden, is also frequently ascended (guide
desirable, IVs fr.). We at first follow the Trogen road \ after iVi M. we
ascend to the right towards some houses, where a boy may be engaged as
a gnide; 10 min., the path enters pine- wood (rather steep here), then crosses
an open meadow with a few chalets, and ascends the small peak of the
(Vs hr.) ^Xaioa (3668'). The view embraces a great part of the Lake of
Constance and Canton Thurgau , the embouchures of the Rhine and the
Bregenzer Ach, the Vorarlberg and Liechtenstein Mts., with the white chain
of the Rhtetikon and the Scesaplana above them to the S.E. To the S. it
4*
52 Route 17, TROOEN. The Canton
affords a characteristic glimpse of the Appenxell district: the Kamor and
Hohe Kasten, the five peaks of the Furgglen-First and Kanzel, the double-
peaked Altmann, the snow-fields of the Sentis, and the Todi farther
distant; in the foreground woods, meadows, and the thriving Tillages of
Wald, Trogen, and Speicher^ to the left above Trogen rises the Gabris
(see below) ; to the right, near Speicher, the Vogelisegg (see below) \ to the
left, above Speicher, in the distance, the Pilatus and the Rigi. — The Kaien
is 172 hr. from Speicher, and 21/2 hrs. from St. Gtall. Trogen seems almost
within a stone's-tbrow, though really 3 H. distant. The path descends to the
right by the Gup/ (Inn) and the Behtobel (^Hirsch), beyond which the road
to Trogen is visible in the wooded ravine far below. H^ear the bridge in
the vaUey below, is a rustic tavern *Am Goldach".
The Oihris (see below) may be ascended from Heiden direct (avoiding
the Kaien) : to St. Anthony'' s Chapel (see above) IV4 hr. \ then along the
crest of the hill, with a charming survey of the Bhine Valley and the
Sentis, to the Ruppen (Landmark Inn, eomp. p. 328), and thence to the
summit of the Odbris, a beautiful walk of 2 hrs.
The road fboh Heiden to Trogen (6Y2 M.) ascends the E.
slope of the Kaien (see p. 51) to (21/4 M.) Langenegg (3182'; Inn)
and then leads up and down hill, past Rehtobel (see above), sitaated
beyond the deep valley of the Goldaoh on the right, by (21/4 M.)
Wald (3150'; Sonne) to (2 M.).
Trogen (2969'; pop. 2629; Hirsch; *Krone), the seat of
government of Canton Appenzell*Ausser-Rhoden, a prosperous vil-
lage, pleasantly situated and visited as a summer resort.
Boad over the Rvppen to (7 M.) Altttadtent see p. 328. — Fbom St.
Gallsn to Tbogen (6 H.) , diligence 8 times daily in 1 hr. 40 min. The
road leads past the nunnery oiKotkersegg and the inn of Kurzegg (p. 48), t-o
the (4 M.) *V»geli»esg (1856'; ^mtel-Pension) , which affords a fine view
of the Lake of Constance, the populous and rich pasture-lands of Speicher
and Trogen, and of the Vorarlberg and Appenzell Mts. A point a few
§aces in front of the hotel commands a specially flne prospect of the
entis. Descent to (V4 M.) Speicher (2978'; Lowe; Krone) and across the
Bachtobel to (IV4 M.) Trogen.
From the church at Trogen a road leads hy the pretty village
oi Buhler (2736'; *R6ssli) to (5 M.) Gals, but the path over the
'^'Cttbris (4100') is shorter and far more attractive.
The traveller coming from the Kaien follows the Trogen and Biihler
road to the (I/2 hr.) top of the hill (3487' ; view of the Sentis) 5 a finger-
post here indicates the path to the left to Gais over the Gabris. Those
who come from Vogelisegg should not go on to Trogen, but quit the high-
road between Speicher and Trogen by a flight of steps to the right (iVa M.
from Vogelisegg), diverging beyond a gorge which the road skirts in a wide
curve. A small valley lies immediately on the right, and the path ascends
gradually across meadows. After 7i hr. this path reaches the road from Tro-
gen to Bdhler at a few hundred paces from the flnger-post. About 5 min.
beyond the latter we reach two houses. Where the ascent begins we keep
to the left. Farther on, the road skirts a wood (at the beginning of which
the descent to the left is to be avoided). At the point (20 min.) where
a row of old pine-trees flanks the road on the right, a footpath between
two of these ascends, chiefly through wood, in 5 min. to the summit.
The point first attained is the SignalhShe (4i6i'), the view from which is
much obstructed by wood. A few min. farther is an *Inn. whence a charm-
ing prospect is enjoyed (reached from the Vogelisegg in I72 hr.). To Gais,
which lies at our feet, a somewhat steep descent of Va hour. Walkers in
the reverse direction will find finger-posts at doubtful points. Numerous
benches.
Gais (3064'; pop. 2505; *0ch9 and ^Krone, R. & A. 2^/2-^%
ofAppenUU. WEISSBAD. ll.BxmU, 53
^A^l^j D. 3fr., whey 80 c. per day; AdUt^ Hiraeh, Rofhbaehj etc.,
plain}, a trim-looking village , in the midst of green meadows, is
the oldest of the AppenzeU' whey-resorts, having been in vogue
since 1749. Fine view of the Sentis from the Kurgarten.
Diligence to St. Gallen, see p. 56. — The Road tsom Gais to Alt-
STAinna (6 M. , diligence once daily in i'/i hr^ £rom Altstadten to Gais
in I'/c hr-) is level for the first U/t M., and then descends uninterruptedly
from the point where it diverges from the old road and winds round the
mountain. The old road, shorter for pedestrians, and far preferable on
account of the view, leadfi to the left over the 0/4 hr.) *8toM (3270' ; Pen-
sion Stoss), a chapel on the pass, with a celebrated view of the Rhine
Valley, the Vorarlberg, and the Grisons. Here, on 17th June, 1405, 400
Appenzellers under Rudolf von Werdenberg signally defeated 3000 troops of
tlie Archduke Frederick and tke Abbot of St. Oallen. The old road rejoins
the new immediately below the Stoss, but soon diverges again. The road
to the left, descending in zigzags, is the better ; that to the right is steeper,
but shorter. — Those who intend proceeding from the Stoss to the Sentis
may leave Gais and AppenzeU to Uie right, and descend direct to the (2
hrs.) Weissbad, by the Ohere Hinehberg (^24'), which commands a fine
panorama.
A road traversing meadows leads from Gais to (3 M.) Appenxell
(2550'; pop. 4302; *Hechtj ^Lowe, both moderate; beer at the
Krone), another whey-resort, the capital of Canton Inner-Rhoden,
on the Sitter^ a large village consisting chiefly of old wooden
houses. It contains two monasteries, and was formerly a country-
seat of the Abbots of St. Gallen, AppenzeU being a corruption of
^Abbaiis CeUa\ The Hospital, the Church, erected in 1826, and
the Landesarchiv or record office, containing interesting charters,
are worthy of note. Shady promenades on the Sitter. — Railway
to Urndsch and Winkeln, see p. 46. Diligence by Gais to 8t,
Oallen J see p. 56.
A road leads from AppenzeU, passing the Hdtel Steinegg, S.E.,
to the (2 M.) *Wei88bad (2680'), another whey-cure and health
resort (R. & A. 2-4, B. 1 fr. 20, D. 3, S. 2fr., cheaper at a
longer stay ; also river-baths) , pleasantly situated at the base of
the AppenzeU Mts., and a good starting-point for excursions.
Guides* Fees (J. A. Thdrig, Buber, Jae. and Joh. Kostei*): Wild-
kirchli 5, Sbenalp 5, Sentis 10, over the Sentis to Wildhaus 20, Altmann
12, Hohe Kasten 6, over the latter into the Rhine Valley 10 fr. — Horse
to Wildkirchli 10, Ebenalp 12, Hohe Kasten 10, Eamor 9 fr. — Carriage
to St. Gallen and Altstatten with one horse 12 , with two horses 25 fr. ; to
Gais 8 or 14 fr. ; to AppenzeU 3 or 6fr.
From Wxissbad to thb Rhine Vallet. The direct route by the
Hohe Kasten (5V2 hrs.) leads to the S.E. through O/2 br.) BrUllisau (3061'-,
Krone, rustic); by the church we follow the paved path, past the iirst
house , as far as a bam , and ascend the meadows (towards the inn
which lies conspicuously at the foot of the Kamor) as far as the last
group of houses, Vs ^i*- i then straight on (not by the beaten path), through
ttie enclosure on the right, to the /»» ^2um Ruhsitz'' (V2 br., bridle-path
thus far). From the inn a steep ascent of 1 hr. by a good path , to the
summit of the *Hohe Kasten (5900^; *Inn), which, together with the
neighbouring (>/« hr. N.) Kamor (5880'), slopes precipitoiisly towards the
Rhine Valley. Splendid view of the Sentis group, with its three spurs on
thel^.E., which is nowhere seen to such advantage; in the other direction
we see the Rhine Valley, stretching as far as the Lake of Constance, and
the Alps of the Vorarlberg and Grisons. We may now descend by a steep
54 BouU It. WILDKIROHLI. The Canton
and atony path to (3 hrs.) stat. Senmtatd^SaUte (p. 328). It diverges from
the Weissbad path to the left, just below the saddle between the Kamor
and Hohe Easten, skirts the W. and S. slopes of the latter, and de-
scends in zigzags (no possibility of mistake; several finger-posts lower
down). Traversing wood for the last hour, we at length reach the village
of Senmeald and the station.
The favourite walk from the Weissbad is to the Wildsibchi.i,
13/4 hr. to the S. (guide 4 fr., nnnecessary). Following the road
to BiuUisau (see p. 63) for 100 paces, we ascend to the right;
8 min. , a house , whence the bridle-track diverges to the left,
while the good footpath leads straight on through a gate,
crossing the bridle-path at (20 min.), a double gate; we then
cross the meadow in the direction of the Ebenalp, or rather
towards the depression between It and the wooded Bomrnen-Alp
(to the left). A little below the top of the hill (40 min.) we
turn to the right. (In 5 min. more the direct path to the Ebenalp
diverges to the right ; see below.) The path approaches the foot of
the precipitous rocks which descend from the Ebenalp to the Seealp-
Thal (see below). Near the (72^^.) *Zum Aescher tavern we ascend to
the right by a narrow, but safe path, skirting the perpendicular rocks,
to the (5 min.) ''^ildkirchli (4920^), formerly a hermitage, found-
ed in 1656, with a chapel dedicated to St. Michael, situated in a
grotto (33' wide ; tavern). On the patron-saint's day (at the be-
ginning of July) and on St. Michael's Day (29th Sept.) solemn
services are conducted here, and the grotto and the Ebenalp attract
numerous visitors. View of the deep Seealp-Thal (with the path to
the Sentis opposite, see below), and, to the left, of the Lake of
Constance, in the direction of Swabia and Bavaria.
A dark passage in the rook, 150 paces long, closed by a door
(opened by the landlord, who provides a light, ^l%ft.\ leads from the
grotto to the *£bexLalp, where an entirely new Alpine view is dis-
closed. The (25 min.) summit (5250'; Inn, 6 beds) , commands
a superb view of the Sentis, Altmann, Curflrsten, Lake of Con-
stance, etc. — We may descend direct to the (25 min.) Bommen-
Alp (see above ; guide useful to the beginning of the distinct path).
Pleasant walk by Sehwende^ leaving the Sentis route (see below) to the
left, to the (iV2 hr.) Seealp-See (3747'), very picturesquely situated in a
basin between the Ologgeren and Altenalp (see p. 55). — A new path
leads from the Aescher tavern (see above) to the SeeaJp-See in */4 hr.
To the Leuerfall, 2 hrs. , also interesting; the path diverges to the
right from that to the Wildkirchli after 20 min. and ascends the Weiit-
baehthal, the last part through beautiful wood.
The snow-clad *Senti8 (8215'), the highest mountain in the
canton, is most conveniently ascended from the Weissbad (6 hrs. ;
guide 10 fr. ; one-horse carr. to Wasserauer 3-4 fr.). A road di-
verges to the right from the road to Brulllsau beyond the (3 min.)
bridge over the Schwendebach, and ascends on the right bank of the
brook to (V4 hr.) Schwende (2840'; *Inn Zur Felsenburg, on the
left bank), and to the (35 min.) Wasserauer Inn, where the road
-'.eases. The ascent now commences (Katzensteig) , following the
ofAppenzell. SENTIS. 17. RouU. 55
telegrapb stakes, on the left side of a ra^ne through which a brook
is precipitated ; (40 min.) chalets of the Huttenalp (milk). The
narrow , hut well - defined path now skirts the Schrinnen , the
shelving pastures of the Ologgeren (below which are perpen-
dicular rocks), affording beautiful glimpses of the 8eealp-8ee far
below, the Sentis and Altmann, and the Wildkirchli to the right.
In 3/4 hi. we pass a refuge-hut , and in 3/^ hr. more we reach the
MeglU'Alp (4857' ; small rustic inn) , in a picturesque basin. The
path ascends hence rather steeply on the left side of the yalley and
skirts the base of the Bosmiactd , being frequently hewn in steps
(the telegraph stakes commencing 10 min. from the Meglisalp may
be followed). After 2 hrs. the inn on the Sentis becomes visible.
In early summer the snow generally begins here , on which we as-
cend to the inn (steep towards the end) in another hour. Later
in the season the path leaves the snow on the left, gradually becom-
ing steeper and crossing large masses of rock, and also reaches
the inn in an hour. The Inn (beds at 3-4 fr. , mattress in the attics
i*/2 ^r. ; often crowded on Sat and Sun.) is 5 min. from the
summit ofthe Sentis or Hohb Mbsmss, to which we finally mount
by a path protected by a railing (at the inn a telegraph office , on
the top a meteorological station). The **View (see Helm's ex-
cellent Panorama) extends over N.E. and E. Switzerland, embra-
cing the Lake of Constance, Swabia and Bavaria, the Tyrolese Mts.,
the Orisons , and the Alps of Glarus and Bern. — The N. peak,
separated from the S. by the ^BUme 8chnee\ is named the Oyren^
8pit% or Oeier apits (7766').
From the Sentis we may descend, at first over snow, and then by a
path which is very steep at first, over the Sehafbodin and the Fliess-
Alp to (3V3-4 hrs.; in the reverse direction 6 hrs.) Wild?uxus or Unter-
wasser in the Toggenburg (p. 57 ; guide desirable). — The usual route
FBOM TBB Wbissbad TO WiLDHAiTS (TVs-S hr0.) leads by BrSUismt and
through the BrUUtobel to the S&mtia-See (3970'), passes the FOhlen-See
(4772' ; chalets), and ascends to the summit of the pass (Zwinglipeus., about
6560'), between the Altmann (see p. 56) on the right, and the Krayalp-
firtt (6953') and Roslenflrst (eSSa*) on the left. We descend by the Krap-
^1> (5938'), and the Tetelalp (4560*) to Wildhaiu, This route, however, is
rough, and not sufficiently repaying; the route over the Sentis (not much
longer) is therefore preferable.
Mountaineers may combine a visit to the Wildkirchli (p. 54) with
the ascent of the Sentis U>uide necessary, 16 fr.) by leaving the valley
of the Seealp-See to the left. The path leads high above the Seealp-
See at the base of the Zdnsler and Behafler across the Alien- Alp ^ the
Oehrli^ and over the Mtuchelfelt (numerous fossils); hence either to the
left across the valley to the Wagtnlueke by the path which ascends from
Weissbad (see above), or (1 hr. shorter) across the Blaue Bchnee (caution
on account of the crevasses) past the base of the OpreiupUt^ and over
the Flatten direct to the summit (7-8 hrs. in all). — A path, constructed by
the S. A. C, ascends to the summit on the W. side also (6 hrs., with guide).
It starts from the Oemeinen- Weten Alp (42i(y ; reached from Umasch or
Vesslau in 2 hrs.), Mcends over stony slopes, and mounts a steep rooky
slope in zigsags to the first mountain-terrace. The ascent is then more
gradual, over rock and pasture, to the Fliesbordkamm and the (2Vskrs.)
CM>-Hut on the Thiertetid (715(y). We next traverse rocks and debris,
leaving the ^Blaue Schnee' on the right (see above), and ascend in steep
56 Boute 17, TBUFEN.
ilgzags to tbe u2te between the OyrenmUe and the Sentis. LMtly we
mount the Flatten by a flight of steps 140 yds. long, protected by a wire
railing, and reach the (IV2 hr.) summit.
The Aitmann (7986'; 7 hrs. with guide; toilsome), is ascended from
the Weissbad via the FShUnalp and Zmnglip<u$ (see p. 55) ; descent through
the L&chlibetter to the Meglisalp (p. 55).
Railway from Appenzell to Winkeln, Ti4 Vrnasch and HerUau,
see p. 46. — If time permit, however, the picturesque Road yik
Tbufbk to St. Gaxlen (12 M. ; diligence 3 times daily in 2 hrs.
26 min.) is preferable. It runs by (3 M.) OcUs (p. 52), and
along the Rotkbachy separating Appenzell-Ausser-Rhoden from Ap-
penzell-Inner-Rhoden, to (I72MO BiilUer (p. 52) and (2M.) Teofen
(2743'; pop. 4740; *Heeht; *Linde)y a wealthy industrial Tillage,
picturesquely situated, with a fine view of the Sentis chain ; and
thence through meadows and woods to (6 M.) 8t. OaUen.
A Path from Appenzell to Teufen, a slightly shorter route, crosses the
Sitter near Mettlen^ and descends the valley of the Sitter, high on its right
bank, by Steig^ Lank^ and Heulen. It leads thence to the N.E., over the
hill, and through several woods, descends into the valley of the Rothbeieh,
crosses the brook, and ascends to Tet^fen.
The Footpath from Tedfen to St. Gallen (iV2 hr.) diverges from
the high-road near the ^Hecht' inn , and immediately ascends to (V4 hr.)
the SchSJle's-Eifg (30Q0'; tavern) ; it then descends to f/4 hr.) St, Oeorgen^
where it joins the high-road to (IV2 M.) St. Gallen. — About 10 min. W.
of the Schafle's-Egg is the ^Fr&lichsegg (3290' ; *Xnn)y which commands an
admirable view: Teufen in the foreground, the green Alpine valley
sprinkled with dwellings, and the Appenzell Mts., beginning with the
Fahnem, on the left, the Kamor, the Hohe Kasten about the middle of
the chain, the green Ebenalp below the snow, more to the right the
Aitmann and the Sentis with its snow-fields, then in the distance the
Glarnisch and Speer; to the W. the railway and road to Wyl, extended
like a map at our feet , and to the N. , part of the Lake of Constance.
Hence to St. Gallen, 3 M.
18, From Wyl throngh the Toggenburg to Bachs
in the Rhine Valley.
Comp. Map^ p. 50,
Railwat from Wyl to Slmat^ I61/2 X., in 1 hr. 5 min. (1 fr. 95, 1 fr.
40 c. \ 2nd and 3rd cl. only). — From Ebnat to Buehs, 24 M., diligence
twice daily in 5^/4 hrs. (5 fr. 20 c.) ; also several times daily to Nesslau in
1 hr., and to Alt-St. Johann in 2^/8 hrs. — Carriage with one horse from
Wildhaus to Bvehs, in 1 hr. 20 min., 12 fr. •, to EtmcU in 8 hrs., 14 fr.
Wyl, on the Winterthur-St. Gallen line, see p. 46. The train
traverses the Toggenburg, the busy and populous valley of the Thur.
When the Counts of Toggenburg became extinct (1436), the County
was purchased by the Abbots of St. Gallen, who at the same time secured
to the inhabitants their ancient rights and privileges. In the course of
centuries, however, a great part of the population having embraced
Protestantism, the abbots violated their contract, which resulted in their
expulsion at the beginning of the 18th century. This gave rise to the
Toggenburg War, a violent feud in which the Roman Catholic cantons
espoused the cause of St. Gallen, while the Protestants took the part of
the Toggenburgers. No fewer than 150,000 men were thus gradually
brought into the field. In July 1712, the Roman Catholics were at length
iefeated at Villmergen in the Aargau ; and a general peace was concluded,
WILDHAUS. 18. RouU, 57
wUch secured to the Toggenburgen full ex^oyment of all their ancient
libesiies, though they were ^till to belong to the Canton of St. Oallen.
4^/2 M. Batzenheid; opposite, Jonswyl, with a new church. Op-
posite (6 M.) Lutisburg we cross the Ouggerloch by a viaduct 170 yds.
loi^, and 190' high. Stations Butschwyl, Dietfurt, and (IOV2 M.)
Lichtensteig (pop. 1477; *Krone), a pleasant town on a locky
height, with a modern Gothic church. On a hill to theE. (l^^hr.)
is the ruin of Neu-Toggenburg (3566 *), a fine point of Aiew.
.121/2 M. Wattwyl (2027'; Rosa; *Toggenburg'), a charming
village, with 5283 inhab. and a new church. (Diligence to Utz-
nach, 4 times dally in I3/4 hr., see p. 41) On a hill to the right is
the nunnery of 8t. Maria der Engeln, and above it the ruin of
Yberg, The last station is (15V2 M.) Ebnat-Kappel. The village of
Ebnat (2106'; *Krone; Sonne; Rosenhuhly a restaurant with view)
is a thriving place; 1 M. to the N. W. of it is Kappel (Traube;
Stern), rebuilt since a fire in 1853.
The 'Bpeer (BilT; not difficult for experts) may be ascended through
the Steinihal in 5 hrs. (finger-posts ^ comp. p. 42) \ or from Neu-St. Johann^
or from NeMtlau (see below) , by the Alp im Load and the Herren-Alp in
5 hrs. (guide 7 fr.).
The High Road , commanding a view of the Gur&rsten op-
posite, and, near Neu-St. Johann, of the Sentis on the left, ascends
slightly on the right bank of the Thur, to Krummenau (2386'),
wheie the ^8prung\ a natural rock-bridge, crosses the stream, Neu-St,
Johann (Schafle), with an old Benedictine abbey, and (41/2 M.) —
20 M. KesBlau (2470'; * Krone; Traube\ with a pretty church.
To Urnasch ovee the Kkazekn-Pass (41/2 hrs.), a fine route. A road
ascends from H^eu-St. Johann through the LauUrthal^ by Ehtnetb&il and
the Xiedbad or EnMlMhler-Bad, to the (IVs br.) Alp Bemhalden (340Q') ; a
path to the left then ascends through the Kratemwald to the KrAzem-
Paas 0^60, and crosses the pastures of Krdzem to the (2 hrs.) Ross/all- Alp
(Inn), whence a road leads to (1 hr.) UrnSsch (p. 46). — Ascent of the
SentU (p. 54) from Kesslau, 6hrs. : from Bemhalden in V4 hr. to the >llp
Qemeinen-Wesen (4210'); new path thence to the (4 hrs.) top (p. 55). —
Ascent of the Speer, see above.
The scenery becomes bleaker. The road leads past a fine fall of
the Weisse Thur to (2V4M.)5t€m (Krone) and (2^/4 M.) Starkenbach
(Drel Eidgenossen), a straggling village. To the right the ruin of
Starkenstein. (Route over the Amdener Berg to Wesen, see p. 42 ;
guide as far as the pass advisable.) Passing (1^2 M.) Alt -St. Jo-
hann (2920'; *R6s8li) and (8/4 M.) Unterwasser (Stern; Traube),
prettily situated at the sources of the Thur, we ascend to (3^/4 M.) —
3OV2 M. Wildhaus (3600'; *Hirsch; Sonne^. A little before
entering the village , we pass on the right the wooden house,
blackened with age, in which Zwingli was born on 1st Jan., 1484.
Wildhaus belonged to Rhsetia till 1310, and the region of the Ro-
mansch language (p. 333) extended to this point. Behind the vill-
age, which lies at the foot of the Sehafberg (7820'), we ohUln a fine
survey of the seven peaks of the Gurflrsten (p. 42) ; or still better
from the (8/4 hr.) -Sommerifcop/" (4317').
58 Route 19. MOLLIS. From Zurich
Ascent of the Sentit from Wildhans or Ali-St. Johann (yia the FHeu-
Alp and the Scha/boden in 6 hrs. ; guide) , see p. 56. — To Weia^ad by the
Krapalp^ the FOhlensee, and 3&mtU$$e (7 hrs.), see p. 55. — To Wcaerutadt
over the Kaserruetj 6 hrs., see p. 44.
The road descends, finally describing a long bend, to (6 M.)
Oams (1575'; Schafle), in the Rhine Valley, and then leads straight
to (IY2 M.) Haag (p. 328), while a road to the right leads hy Ordba
and Werdenberg to (3V2 M.) —
391/2 M. Bucks (p. 328).
19. From Ziirich to Glams and Linththal.
53 H. Railway (Nordostbdhn) to Olams (43 H.) in 21/2 hrs. (7 fr. 20,
5 fr. 5, 3 fr. 60 c.) : from Glarus to Linththal (10 M.) in 40-50 min. (1 fr.
60 c, 1 fr. 15 c, 80 c). (From Wesen to Glarus, TVs M., in 25 min.; 1 fr.
25 c., 90 c., 65 c.)* Carriages are usually changed at Glarus.
Railway on the left bank from Zurich to (36 M.) Ziegelhrucke,
see pp. 40-42. The train again crosses the Linth Canal (p. 41) and
traverses the broad valley towards the S, ; on the right the Wiggis
and Glarnisch (see below). 37 M. Nieder- and Ober-Vmen; 39 M.
NafelS'Mollis, junction for (1 1/4 M.) Wesen (p. 42).
KafeU (1434' ; Linthhof; Hirsch; Schwert) and Ober-Urnen are
the only Rom. Cath. villages in Canton Glarus. The church Is the
finest in the canton. The dilapidated Freuler Palace^ now a poor-
house, contains some exquisite panelling. On 9th April, 1388, the
canton here shook off the Austrian yoke. In the Rautif elder j where
eleven attacks took place, stand eleven memorial stones. On the
second Thursday of April the natives flock to Nafels to celebrate the
anniversary. — On the opposite bank of the Escker Canal lies Mollis
(1470'; *H6t."Pens. Haltli; *Bdr, *Lbwe, both moderate), an in-
dustrial village. (Walk over the Kerenzenberg to MiihUhomj see
p. 43.)
ExGDBSioNS (Guide, M, Hauser). The Rantiapitz (7493')) the summit
of the Wiggis Chain (see p. 59), rising abruptly to the S.W., is ascended
from Nafels in 5V2-6 hrs. (interesting; no difficulty; guide 18 fr.). On the
right bank of the Rautibach with its numerous falls, we ascend in sigzags,
cross the Thrangibach^ and reach a road through wood. Passing above llie
(1 hr.) Nieder$ee or HasUnsee (2460'), we reach the (V4 hr.) charming Obersee
(3225'), skirt the lake to the left, and ascend through wood to the Orappli-
Alp (4730') and (2 hrs.) Rauti-Alp (5400'), and in V/t hr. more to the sum-
mit, which slopes gradually on the W. side (beautiful view). — An arSte
of rock 1 hr. long, traversed by a path which should not be attempted by
those subject to dizziness, connects the Bautispitz with the Soheye (7420'),
the second highest peak of the Wig^ris. The Scheye may also be ascended
from Vorauen (p. 64) by the Langenegg-Alp (4V2 hrs.), or from the Klon-
thalersee (p. 64) by the fferi>erig and the Deytnalp (4 hrs.), or from Netstall
by the Auem-Alp (5 hrs.).
41 M. Ketstall (8t. Fridolin; Bar; Rabe; Schwert) ^ a large vil-
lage (pop. 2400), Hes at the E. base of the Wiggis. The Lontschj
descending from the Klonthal (p. 64), falls into the Linth here.
43 M. Olanu. — '^Glakneb Hop, at the station, R., L., ft A. 4, B. li/si
D. 4 fr. ; *'Raben, opposite the post-office, R. A A* 31/2, B. 1, D. incl. wine
to Lmikthal. GLARUS. 19, Route, 59
3 fr. ; ^Dmti Bidoemobbsh s LSwb ; Sonitb ; Adlsb; beer at the (k^f4 Tcbioi^
imppoflite the station . at the Raben, etc. ; *Re»ta»raHt on the Bergli ii9S3f),
20 mill, to the W. of the town, an admirable point of view.
Olaru8 (1490' ; pop. 5330), Fr. Gtom, the capital of the canton,
witli busy industries, lies at the N.E. base of the precipitous and
imposing Vorder-Qlamisch (7648'), at the W. base of the SchUd
(TSCSQ, and at the S.E. base of the Wiggis (see p. 58), the barren,
grey summits of which form a striking contrast to the fresh green on
its slopes. The Hauastoek (10,355^) forms the back-ground to the S.;
to the left the JTarp/stocfc (91800, *<> ^^^ "ght the BucW (10, 190').
In 1861 , during a violent Tohn* (S. wind), the greater part of
tlie town was burned down. The new Romanesque church is used
by the Roman Catholics and the Protestants in common. In 1506-
1^ the reformer Zwingll was pastor at the old church, on the site of
-which the law-courts now stand. The two grassy spaces in front
represent the old cemetery. The Law Courts contain the Can-
tonal Archives , the public Library , and collections of antiquities
and natural curiosities. In the art department is a small Picture
OaUery^ containing chiefly "works by Swiss artists. The Public
OardenSj in front of the Glarner Hof , are embellished with a hand-
some fountain, and contain memorial stones to the statesmen J.Heer
(d. 1879) and J. J. Blumer (d. 1876), both natives of Glarus. — On
the opposite bank of the Linth lies the busy manufacturing village
of Ennenda (H6t. Neues Bad).
Excursions (guides, see p. W). The Bohild (75000 Is a fine point (SVs
hrfl. ; guide 12 fr.). The path from Olaras leads through wood and pastures,
and over the Enne^erge-, to the (3 hrs.) Heubodeu-Alp (477(y) and thence
to the right, without difficulty, to the top in 2V2 hrs. more. Admirable
view of the Hiirtschenstock, Todi, and Glamisch. — The Fronalpstook
(OdS^*; similar view) is easily ascended by the Ennetberge and the Fronalp
in 6 hrs. — To ths Mubothal from the Heuboden-Alp, by the Miirtsehen-
Alp (Oberttafel, 6063*), see p. 48 (to the Mirlen-Alp direct, 2 hrsj over
the Murgsee/urket to the Murg»een, 3Vs hrs.)- — To Filzbach (8 hrs.;
guide unnecessary for good walkers), a fine route: we cross the Fronalp
{MUtlere 6193', Obere 6039*), pass between the Fronalpstoclc and Fahristock
to the 0 hrs.) Spcmnegg ^iO&) skirt the little Spcmnegg-See (4767'^ with
the MtirUehenstoek on our right, p. 43), and descend the Platten-Alp to
the Thalalp-See (3610^ and (3 hrs.) FiltbacH (p. 43). -> The Varder-GlUmUeh
(7649), from Glarus 5V9-6 hrs. (guide 13 fr.), see p. 64.
The *Xltathal (p. 64) deserves a visit. Good road to the Klffnthaler
See 4Vs M., to Vorauen 4V2 M. more (one-horse carr. in l^/s hr., there and
back 15, two-horse carr. 20-26 fr.).
From Glarus over the Pragel to Schwpx^ see B. 21 } through the Semf-
thdl to (7b<'r«, see R. 22.
The railway to Linththal crosses the Linth six times. MM. En-
nenda (see above). Near (451/2 M.)JtfitWdi (1666'; Hirsch), and again
beyond it, we obtain a superb view of the Todi and its neighbours,
which are not visible beyond Schwanden. The scenery is pictur-
esque, the fertile valley with its factories contrasting pleasantly with
the rocky and wooded slopes and the snow-mountains at its head.
47 M. Sehwanden (1712'; Rati. Rettaur.^ The village. {*AdUr,
pens. 6-6 fr.), with its large factories, lies at the junction of the
8emf-Thal or KUin^Thal with the Linth-Thal or Gross-Thai.
60 Route 19. STAOHBLBERG. From Zurich
Diligence to £Im. see p. 66. — To fhe Oberbleci-Bee (4679*), a pleasant
excursion , by Nid/um, in 3 hrs. ; fine view of the Linththal and Todi.
We may also ascend by the charmingiy situated villages of Thon and
Schtoancli to the (3Vs hrs.) Guppe»-Alp (66100, go past the small Quppen-
Seeli and the LeuggeUtoek (6673') to the (1 hr.) OberhlegUeey and return by
Nidfurn.
The train crosses the Lioth helow the influx of the Sernf and
passes through the village of Schwanden. Beyond (48 M.) Nidfum-
Haslen is Leuggelbach, with a fine waterfall on the right. 50 M.
Luchsingen-Hazingenj two well-to-do villages, one on each bank
of the Linth. We cross the stream to (51 M.) Betschwanden-Dies-
hack (1958'); on the left, a beautiful fall of the Diesbach.
■ The Saasberg (6467'), a spur of the Freiberg Range^ easily ascended
from Betschwanden or from Riiti in 4-4 V2 hrs., commands a striking view
of the head of the valley and the surrounding mountains. — Ascent of the
Xftrpfstook (HocMtarpf ^ 9177'), the highest of the Freiberge, laborious,
and suitable for experts only (with guides 7-8 hrs. from Betschwanden,
via Bodmen-Alp and KUhihal-Alp).
Beyond stat. Ruti we cross the Linth for the last time. 53 M.
Linththal^ the terminus, lies on the left bank. About Y4 M. to th.e
N. are the favourite *Bath8 of Stachelberg (2178'; *0lamer*8
Hotel, R., L., AA-Si^-'i, D. 3V2, S. 272^., B. 1 fr. 40 c., pens.
61/2 fr. , R. extra , visitors' tax 1 fr. per week ; d^pendance at
the 'Seggen', on the right bank), beautifully situated. The power-
ful sulphureous alkaline water drops from a cleft in the Braunwald-
bergy II/2 M. distant. The *View of the head of the valley is very
striking : in the centre is the 8elh$anft (9920') , to the right the
Kammerstock (6975'), and adjoining it part of the Todi to the left ;
between the latter and the Bifertenstoek (11,240^) lies the Biferten
Olacier. Pleasant walks have been laid out on the wooded hill-side.
A road leads from the station to (^/^ M.) Linththal (2238'; pop.
2301; *Bdr 01 Post; Babe; Kiausen, all moderate), a consider-
able village on the right bank of the Linth, with large spinning-
mills and other factories. On the opposite bank of the Linth lies
Ennetlinth (p. 62).
ExGUKSioNS. Stachelberg is a good starting-point for exploring the
Todi region. (Guides: Heinrich and Peter Elmer of Elm, Joach.y Salomon^
and Adam Zweifel^ Rob. Hdmig^ and Thorn. Wieheer of Linththal; An-
dreas Vordermann, and Abr<iham Stiissi^ of Glarus. High charges.) To
the "Fatichbaeh-Fall (p. 62) ; '^Pantenbriicke^ *Ueli-Alp, and Sandalp^ see
p. 61^ also to the (IV2 hr.) ^ Braunwald - Alp (4920'; small inn), with a
magnificent view of the Todi, best from beside the school iVsM. farther;
to the Oberblegi-Sec (see above), etc. — The Xammeratock (6975') , by the
Kammer-Alpy 4hrs. , repaying, and not difficult. — The Ortstock, or
Silberstock (8908'), by the Alp Br&ch and the Furkel. 6 hrs., laborious-,
splendid view (guide 18 fr.). — The Orieset, or Faulen (8940'), by the
JBraunwaldalp , 6hrs. , attractive, and not difficult (guide 18 fr.). The
Bdse Faulen (9200') « the 1^. and higher peak of the Grieset, is difficult
(6V2-7 hrs. ; guide 30 fr.). These peaks afford an interesting survey of
the stony wilderness around. Other fine points are the P/anfUMtoek (8440*;
6 hrs.) and the Kirehberg {Hoher Ttivrm; 8766'; 7 hrs., with euide). —
The Qemafayrenstook (9758'), from the Upper Sandalp (see p. 61), by the
JBeckenen and the Clariden Olacier in 3^/2 hrs. , not difficult; The descent
may be made by the Qemtfayeralp to the Umer-Boden (p. 62).
— #
ioLmththal. TODI. 19. RouU. 61
A road leads from Linththal (one-horse carr. from Stachelberg
8/f. for 1/2 day, two-borae 12 fr. ; whole day 12 or 20 fr.) by the
Auen^uter to the (31/2 M. j Thierfehd (2680' ; * Curanatalt ^ HoUl
Todi , pens. 5-6 fr.), a green pasture surrotinded by lofty mountains.
During the latter part of the route we have a view of the *Schreien'
bach Waterfall (230' high), which the morning sun tints with rain-
bow hues.
A few paces beyond the H6tel Todi a bridge crosses the Linth,
beyond which the stony path ascends for Y2 tour. A slab on a large
rock on the left is to the memory of Dr. Wislicenus, who perished
on the Grunhom in 1866. The path then descends a little towards
the ravine, turns a corner, and reaches (74 hr.) the *Pantenbrucke
(3212') , 160' above the Linth, in the midst of imposing scenery.
On the right bank, a path ascends the grassy slope straight to the
(V4 hr.) ♦TJeli-Alp (3612'), where we enjoy a superb view of the
Todi.
Thenee we may either return by the same road to the Hotel Todi;
or we may aaoead to the right to the (IV4 br.) Lower Baumgarten-Alp
(5085^, which lies on the right bank of the valley above the Thierfehd
and presents a magnificent view, and descend by a narrow and dizzy path
skirting the precipice of the 7W<(, turning to the left, 5 min. beyond the
Baumgarten-Alp, to Obort and the Auengiiter (guide necessary).
The ^pper Samdalp (6358')t 3Vsbrs. above the Pantenbrucke, is frequently
visited on account of its grand situation. The path ascends beyond the
Pantenbriicke to the right (that in a straight direction leads to the Uelialp,
see above), crosses the Limmem-Baeh^ which descends from a narrow ravine,
and the Sand-Baehy and ascends on the left bank to the (1 hr.) Vord$r«
Sandalp (4100' \ refreshm.). The path now returns to the right bank. By
the Hint&re Sandalp (4330^ it crosses the Biferten-Back^ and then ascends the
steep and fatiguing slope of the Ocfuenblanken , 200(/ in height, where the
Sandbach forms a fine cascade. Lastly we recross to the left bank, where
the brook forces its passage through a gorge , and soon reach the (2 hrs.)
'chalets of the Upper Sandalp (Alpine fare and hay-beds in July and August).
The best point of view is V2 hr. beyond the chalets.
The lanththal is terminated by a magnificent group of snow-mountains.
The giant of this group is the ^Tddi, or Piz Ruaein (11,887' ; from Linththal
10-il hrs.; only fit for experts; guide 40 fr. ; two guides required for one
traveller, or one guide for two travellers), with its brilliant snowy crest,
the most conspicuous mountain of N.E. Switzerland, ascended for the first
time in 1837. The route is from the Hintere Sandalp to the (S'/z hrs.)
OrUnhom Hut (8062*; spend night), and thence up the Bi/erien-Fim to the
summit, difficult at places, in 4-5 hrs. more. Magnificent view. We may
descend by the Porta da SpesehOy between the Fie Mellen (11,066') and
Stoclffron (llfSU'), to the Val Rusein and (6 hrs.) Disentis (p. 3ol ; guide
80 fr.); or by the GlietMpforte (10,926'), between the Stockgron and the
Piz Urlaun to the Olienu OlaeUr; then through a gap to the £. of the
Puntaifflas Glacier and down the Val Puntaiglas to Truns (comp. p. 3G0).
— The Bifertenstock or Pis Durgin (11,240'), the second-highest peak of
the Tddi group, may be ascended from the Kistenpass , via the ^Furggle\
ID 5 hrs. (difficult; for adepts only; guide 40 fr.).
Passes. From the Upper Sandalp a fatiguing route crosses the Sand-
Jim and the Sandalp Pass (92100 to Disentis in 6-7 hrs. (guide 30 fr.);
another, fatiguing but interesting, crosses (B hrs.) the Clakiden Pass
(98437 to the Maderaner Thai (p. 110, guide 36 fr.).
Fboh Linththal ovee the Kistenpass to Ilanz, 13 hrs. (guide 30 fr.),
fatiguing. Ascent by the Tritt to the (3 hrs.) Lower Baumgarten-Alp^ see
above; then by the Upper Baumgarten-Alp (G/&9&\ ihe Rinkenthalalpi'86i9)
62 Route 20, KLAUSEN-PASS.
and the NUtehenalp (7275^ to the (3 hrs.) MuUenalp (7877'), grandly and
wildly situated (with the small Muttensee ^ 8012*, on the left). We next
ascend the Lattenjirn and the Kittenband^ high above the Limmemfhal
(and opposite the Selbtanft and Bifertenstoeh^ with the QriM and Limnnem
glaciers), to the (1 hr.) Kistenpasa (8200'), lying to the N. of the Kitten-
stdckli (9019'). Descent by the Alp Rubi to (3 hrs.) Bri^els and (2i/ihr0.) Ilanz
(p. 348).
From Stachelberg by the Bitithal to Muotatkal see p. 64.
20. From Stachelberg to Altdorf. Xlansen.
Comp. MapSy pp. 68^ 74.
10 hrs. Bridle-path to Unterschachen: from Stachelberg to Spitelriiti
3V4i Klausen 2, Aelpli Aesch IVi, TTnterschachen 1, Altorf (diligence every
forenoon in IVz hr.) 7 H.; goide (18 fr.) unnecessary; horse to Unter-
schachen 27, to Altorf 32 fr.
Leaving Stachelberg, we follow the left bank of the Linthy pass
ElnnetUnth, cross the (}/% hr.) Frulbach (small waterfall), and ascend
to the right through wood; 0 min. farther (where the path divides,
we follow the lower) we pass a fine *Waterfall of the Fatsehbachy
which descends from the Urner Boden. (In order to view the fall we
turn to the right, fifteen paces before reaching the little bridge, and
ascend for 200 paces by a narrow path on the left bank. We then
return almost to the beginning of the path, and ascend the Frutberffy
on which we regain the bridle-path in 5 min.) The path ascends
rapidly through wood for 1 hr., then for the next 40 min. more
gradually. A wall and gate form the boundary between Glarns and Uri
at the point where the Scheidbdchli (4290^) descends from the right.
The Timer Boden (2^4 hrs. from Stachelberg), a broad grassy
and at places marshy valley, with a few groups of chalets, about 4 M.
long and 1/2 M- ^^oad, now begins. It is bounded on the N. by the
jagged ridge of the Jagemstocke andJfaren&erye, culminating in the
Ortstock (89080 , and on the S. by the glaciers and snow-fields of
the Clariden (10,728'). About */2 hr. from the frontier of Glarus we
pass the Alpine tavern Zur Sonne j and then (25 min.) the chalets of
Spitelriitiy with a Chapel and the inn Zum Tell on a hill (4560^),
The path traverses the pasture for 72^^- more, and then ascends
a stony slope, passing (3/4 hr.) an excellent spring to the left, to the
(V4hr.) Klausen-Alp and the (^^2^^-) Klanaen Pati (64370. On the
W. side we descend the gentle slopes of the beautifully situated
Bodmer Alp (to the left, the Oroase Scheerhomy 10,814'). After
^2 1^^-) where the path divides, we turn to the left to the (5 min.)
chalets of the Lower Balm (5600') and cross the brook to a rocky
deft, forming the approach to the Balmwand, which here descends
precipitously to the Schachenthal. The stony path descends in zig-
zags to the 0/2 hr.) Aelpli ('little Alp') Aesch (4173' ; *H6t, Staubi,
rustic). To the left, the discharge of the Griea Olacier , on the N.
side of the Scheerhorn, forms the magnificent *8tdubef Waterfall.
We now descend the wooded Sch&chentlial, on the left bank of
the turbulent Schdchenbach. On the right bank (35 min.) the Chapel
MUOTATHAL. 21, RouU, 63
ofSi. Anna; 10 min., we cross the stream ; 1/4 ^^-7 Vntertoh&ehen
(3346'; *n6t. Clausen, moderate ; one-horse carr. to Altdorf 10 fr.),
Jnely situated near the mouth of the Brunni-Thalj through which
peeps the Orosae Ruch€n(i0,2db'^j with its glaciers. (Over the Ruch-
ithlen Pass to the Maderaner Thai, see p. 110.) To the N. rises the
SchdehenthaUr WmdgaUe (90520, and farther W. the Kinzig Pass
(see below), the scene of Suvoroff s celehrated retreat.
A road descends the pretty valley, by Spiringen, where a disastrous
landslip from the Spitten (8050'), situated on the S., occurred in
June lo87, Weiterschwanden, and Trudelingenj to (5 M.) a stone
bridge over the Schachenbach, and thence to (1 M.) Burglen (p. 98)
and Altdorf J see p. 97.
21. From Schwyz to Olaxus over the Pragel.
Comp. J£ap*, pp. 74, 68.
ll brs. DiLiOBMGB from Schwyz to (8 M.) Huotathal twice daily in
IVs br. \ carriage with one horse 9 , with two horses 14 fr. From Muota-
tlxal over the Pragel to (4V4 hrs.) Bichisan , a bridle-path , unattractive ;
guide advisable, especially early and late in the season when the pass is
covered with snow (18 fr.^ Jos, Qwtrder or Xav. Hedig$r of Muotathal).
No inn between Muotathal and Bichisau. The pass being uninteresting, it
IB preferable to visit the Muotathal , as far as the Suvoroff bridge , from
Schwyz or Brunnen, and the Kldnthal flrom Glarus (see p. 59).
Sehwytj see p. 96. The road ascends to the S. through or-
chards and meadows (view of the Lake of Lucerne to the right), and
in a wooded ravine at the foot of the Oibel reaches the Muota,
which flows through a deep rocky channeL Opposite, to the right,
is Ober-Schonehbueh, upon which the French were driven back by
Suvoroff in 1799. Farther up the Muota ravine (2^2 ^0) ^^^ ^^^
visible from the road, is the Suvoroff Bridge, which was contested
by the Russians and the French for two days. (At a sharp bend
in the road, 2^2 M. from Schwyz, a road descends to the right to
this bridge in 3min.; we may then return to Schwyz through wood
and pastures on the left bank, a pleasant walk of 2 hrs. in all.).
Beyond (21/2 M.) Bied (AdUr), on the left, is the Ostubtfall, at
first descending perpendicularly, and then gliding over the rock.
At (1 M.) Fbllmis (1903') the road crosses the Muota, passes the
Mettelbaehfall in the Kessdtobel, and reaches (2 M.) —
8 M. Muotathal (1996'; pop. 1885; Krone; *Hirsch\ the capi-
tal of the valley, with the Franciscan Nunnery of 8t. Joseph, founded
in 1280 , in which Suvoroff had his headquarters in 1799. Fine
lock scenery and waterfalls in the vicinity.
OvKB THE Kinzio-Pass TO Altobf, 8 hrs., fatiguing (guide unnecessary
for adepts). After following the Pragel route for 1/4 hr., we diverge by
the Hnota bridge to the right, and ascend- the Euri-Thal, passing the cha-
lets of LipplUbUhl and W&nai , to the (SVa hrs.) Xinxig Paas (67900i lying
to the S.E. of the Faulen (81500- A height V4 hr. to the S. commands
a striking *View of the Bernese Alps and of the Scheerhorn and Clariden
to the S.E. Then a rapid descent to the SehdcherUhal (p. S2), Weiter-
Hhtgandsn, and BUrgUn (p. 98). The Kinzig Pass is famous for the masterly
1 !
i
I
64 Soute 21. KLONTHAL.
retreat of Suvoroff, who, when cut off from the Lake of Lucerne by
the French in Sept. 1799, marched with hia army through the Schachen-
thal to the Muotathal , thence over the Pragel to Glarus , and lastly over
the Panixer Pass to Goire.
Thbouoh the Bisithal to Stachelbebg, 10 hrg.f rough but attractive;
guide necessary. Gk)od path (at first a road) through the Bisithal, water-
ed by the Muota, to (2V2 hrs.) Sehwarzenbach (3153'); steep ascent tbencc
to the left to the (3 hrs.) Alp M^lehherg (62930 '« then across the dreary
Karr&Mi'p between the Kirehhtrg and Faulen (p. 60), and down the Brau»-
waldalp to (4-5 hrs.) Stachelberg. Another route is from Sehwarzenbach
across the Bdrensool and Geitenberg Alps to the RohbUUli-Alp and the
Karrenalp. Or from Sehwarzenbach we may go farther up the Muota,
and then ascend to the right over the WaldirAlp and Ruos-Alp to the
(4 hrs.) Ettosalper Kulm (7126'), descend to the Kasem-Alp, turn to the left,
and reach the (IV4 hr.) Balmalp on the Klausen route (see p. 62).
To SiSIKON THROUGH THE BlEMENSTALDENTHAL and ftCrOSS the KatZ€n-
zagei (4888'), a footpath, 7 hrs. (unattractive).
From Muotathal the path leads to the (1/2 lir.) foot of the Stal-
den, and then ascends a toilsome and stony slope to (1 hr.) a group
of houses (fine retrospect) ; 1/4 hr. farther, it crosses the Starzlenbach
by the Klosterherg Bridge , to the left, and ascends rapidly to the
right to two houses; 40 min., by a gate, we descend to the right,
and cross the brook ; 10 min., a cross; 5 min. , a cattle-shed in a
picturesque valley; ^l^hi.^thQ Sennehrunnen^ with excellent water ;
5 min., refuge-hut; 5 min., a cross. Lastly, almost level, to the (25
min.) chalets on the marshy Pragel (5060' ; no view)
The path, at first steep and stony, now descends to the (8/4 hr.)
chalets of the Sehwellaui (4367^), and then leads through wood ;
1/4 hr., the Neuhuttli (4193'); here we turn to the right towards a
large pine, where the pretty Klonthal and its lake become visible ;
Y2 hr. Bichisan (3590'; Kurhaus^ moderate), a rich green pasture
with fine groups of trees. A road descends hence , across a fine
open pasture, in full view of the imposing Glamisch, to (1 hr.)
Yoranen (2640' ; Aehli's 7nn), beautifully situated in the Klonthal.
The '^Ol&rmgoh , the huge rocks of which bound the Klonthal on the
S. side, one of the most picturesque mountains in Switzerland, culmin-
ates in the Vorder- Glamisch (7648'), the Vrenelisgdrtli or Mittler-Gldrnisch
(9534'), the Ruchen-Gldmisch (9567'), and the BachiitocJt or Hinter-Gldmisch
(9583'). The ascent of the Buchen-Glarnisch is not difficult for moun-
taineers (7V2 ^I'S- \ gnide 25 fr. \ see p. 60). We cross the Bichisauer and
Rossmatter Klon , to the W. of Vorauen , enter the narrow Rossmatter
Thal^ pass the chalets of KiUem (8968') and Werben (4562'), and reach the
(41/2 hrs.) restored Clttb Hut in the StetnthUli (66130- We next ascend steep
stony slopes and cross the Glamuchjlm, regain the rock, and reach the
top in 3 hrs. from the hut. Very grand view. — Ascent of the Vorder-
Gl&mueh from Glarus laborious (5i^*6 hrs. *, guide 13 fr. s comp. p. 59).
Ascent of the Scheye (Wiggis) from Vorauen, see p. 68. Over the
BcJmeinalp Pent to the WdggWialj see p. 40.
The "Udnthal is a picturesque dale, with meadows of freshest
green, carpeted with wild- flowers until late in the autumn, and
thinly peopled. To the S. rise the almost perpendicular precipices
of the Olarnisch (see Khove). The pale-green ^ont/iaJcr-^ec (2640'),
11/2 M. from Vorauen, a lake 2 M. long and V3 M. broad, enhances
the beauty of the valley, reflecting in calm weather the minutest
furrows on the side of the Glamisch . The rocks on the S. bank,
I
■\r '
t,
I
SERNFTHAL. 22. UouU, 65
near a waterfall, bear an inscription to the poet ScXornxm Oeasner
(d. 1787) , who often spent part of the summer in a nelghhouring
chalet. The road skirts the N. bank. (Boat down the lake in 50
min. ; fare for 1-10 pers. 11/2 ^'0 ^^ *^® ^8eeruti\ at the lower
end of the lake (872 M. from Vorauen), is a rustic little *Jnn.
Below the lake the valley narrows to a gorge, through which
dashes the LSnisch, the discharge of the lake, forming a series of
cascades amid grand rocky scenery down to its confluence with the
Linth, below Netstall. To the left rise the huge perpendicular cliffs
of the Wiggis Chain (p. 58). We obtain a pretty view of the deep
ravine from the iron foot-bridge , which crosses to the Kohlgrubli
Inn, beside a (3/4 hr.) guide-post, below the road to the right.
The road divides at the (3/4 M.) StaldcngarUn inn. The left
branch leads to (2 M.) NetataU (p. 58) , the right leads over the
Lontsch bridge to (1 M.) Biedem and (IV4 M.) Glams (p. 58).
In descending we enjoy a fine view of the Fronalpatock^ the Schild,
and the Freiberg e (between the Linth and Sernf valleys).
22. From Glariis to Coire through the Semf-Thal.
Comp. Mapy p. 58.
16-18 hrs. Bailwat from Glarus to Scbwanden, 17 min. ; Diligence
from. Schwanden to Elm twice daily in 2^4 hrs. (descent, IY4 hr.). — From
Elm to Films over the Segues Pass, 8-9 hrs., guide 20 fr. (p. 66)^ to Ilanz
over the Panixer Pass, 9 hrs., guide 18 fr. — From Films to Coire D11.1-
OENCE twice daily in SV* hrs. ; from Flims to Beichenau a pleasant walk ;
thence to Coire driving is preferable (diligence 4 times daily).
At Schwanden (p. 59), 3 M. to the S, of Glarus, the deep Semf-
Thal, or Klein-Thai , diverges to the left from the Linththal. The
high-road gradually ascends the N. slope. Beyond (1^2 ^0 ^<irt
is a pretty waterfall on the left; fine retrospective view of the
Glarnisch. 3 M. JS^nj^i (2540'; pop. 1148; ♦Sonne), with cotton-
mills, at the mouth of the narrow Muhlebach-Thal. (Passage of
the Wideratein-Furkel to the Murgthal, see p. 43.) The slate-
quarries (Plattenberge) on the left bank of the Sernf are noted for
their fossil flsh. From (2 M.) Matt (27100 » Pa*^ *o *^e N. E.
leads in 6 hrs. through the Krauchihal and over the Rieaeten Pass
(6644') to Weisstannen (p. 44).
3M. Elm (3215'; V. Elmers Zentntr'), the highest viUage in
the valley, in a fine basin encircled by snow-mountains, was partly
destroyed by a landslip on 11th Sept. 1881.
From the Taehingelberg^ above the slate - quarries to the S.E. of the
village, between the Risikopf and the Oelhe Kopf, a rock about 1900' in
breadth, 320' in thickness, and BOO* in height, became detached and was
precipitated over a steep slope, with a gradient of about 70 : 1(X), into the
valley iiSOf below, covering it for a distance of 1 M. with an enormous
mass of debris, upwards of 225 acres in area. Nearly the whole Unter-
ihal, the garden of the village, with 22 dwelling-houses and 57 other
buildings, was destroyed; 114 persons perished*, and the damage was
estimated at nearly IV2 million fr. The church bears a memorial tablet
recording the names of the deceased. Below the village a road crosses
Baxdbksb, Switzerland. 12th Edition. 5
66 Route 22. SEGNES PASS.
the Semf by a new iron bridge and intersecU the scene of the landslip,
where cultivation is beginning to reappear.
AscBNTS (for experts only ; guides Heinrich and Pettr Elmer, see p. 00).
The Kdrp/itock (9180'), by the Wiehlen-Alp, 6 hrs. (laborious, but, with
good guides, free from danger). — The Vorab (9925'), by the Sether Furka
(see below), 7-8 hrs. — The Hausslock (10,355'), the Pit Segnes (10,280'),
and the Saurenttock (10,0260 are more difficult.
Passes. To Flims ovkb the Segnes Pass, 8 hrs., fatiguing, but
interesting (guide, 18 fr., advisable even for experts as far as the other side
of the snow field beyond the pass). We cross the Semf, amidst the re-
mains of the landslip, and the Raminbach, and ascend the wild gorge
of the Tsehingelnbach, which forms several picturesque falls, to the T»ehin-
geln-Alp. We then mount steep grassy and stony slopes to the (5 hrs.)
Bagnes Faaa (8616') , lying to the S.W. of the Piz Seines (10,2800. To
the right rise the lagged TschingelhOrner or Jfannen (9452 ') , perforated by
the Martimloch (86^), a hole through which the sun shines on the
church of Elm twice a year. Descent over a slope of snow, and then over
debris; to the left is the Stgnes Olacier, between the Piz segnes and the
Trinterhom (99350* The path, which now improves, descends through
pastures, wood, and meadows, in view of the Vorder-Bhelnthal and its
mountains, to (3 hrs.) FUmt (p. 847).
To Ilanz over tub Panixeb Pass, 9 hrs. (guide 18 fr.), fatiguing
and unattractive, but historically famous for SuvoroflTs retreat of 6th-10th
Oct., 1799 (comp. p. 63). A road ascends on the left bank of the Sernf
from Elm by Hinter-Steinibach to the (40 min.) ErbserbrUcke ; 25 min. farther
up, at Wall^nibrugg, we cross the Semf and ascend by a steep, rugged path
to the chalets of the JUttalp {Im Loch , 4822*; Ober-Staffel , 5^0- We
next cross the Walenboden, pass the Binkenkop/, traverse a patch of snow
(with a small tarn on the left), and reach the (SVs hrs.) Paaizer PMa
(Cuoltn da Pignieu; 79070, with its refuge-hut. On the right rises the
Henustock (see above), with theMeer-Olccier. Descent over the Meer-Alp and
the wild Ranasea-Alp to (2V2 hrs.) Panix (4334'; Panixer Pass Inn), and vi&
Ruis to (2 hrs.) Ilanz (p. 848). — Another route to Ilanz, fatiguing and un-
interesting , crosses the Bether Turka (86660' It diverges from the Panix
route to the left, by the tarn above mentioned, and ascends steeply to the
pass. Descent by the Rutcheiner Alp and through the Sether Tobtl to
(9 hrs.) nam (p. 348).
To Weibstaknen bt the Foo Pass, 7 hrs., rather rough (guide 15 fr.).
We ascend the right bank of the Baminbach, chiefly through wood, to the
Ramin-Alp^ and past the chalets of J£att (6179'). to the (4 hrs.) Foo Flaaa,
or Bamin Pass (7333') j then descend by the Foo- Alp and the Unter-Siez-
Alp (437T) to the Seez Valley and (3 hrs.) Weisstannen (p. 44, 3 hrs. from If els).
To Vattis oveb thb Sabdoma Pass, 10-11 hrs., difficult, and rarely
traversed (guide 30 fr.). From the Segnes Pass (see above) we clamber
round the abrupt W. side of the Piz Segnes to the Sauren Glacier and
the Sardona Pass (about 9680'), between the Piz Segnes and the Saurenstock
(10,026'). Very steep descent to the Segnes Glacier, which we cross to the
Sardona Glacier; then a rugged descent to the Sardona-Alp (5735'), in the
Ka^/euser-Thal, 3 hrs. above V&Uis (p. 332). — Another difficult and labo-
rious pass from Elm to Vattis (9-10 hrs.) is the Bcheibe Past, between the
Saurenstock and the Grosse Scheibe (96200. — Oveb the Muttbnthalbb
Gbat, 10-11 hrs. to Vattis, less difficult, but rough and fatiguing ^^de25fr.).
From the (4 hrs.) Foo Pass (see above) we first descend to the Obere
Foo-Alp, then ascend to the right through the Muttenthal to the basin of
the HaibUtzli with a small tarn (76930, and thence to the (3 hrs.) pass, a
gap in the Hnttenthaler Orat (about 82000. Rough descent over the
Malanser Alp to (2 hrs.) St. Martin (44330 in the Kalfeuser Thai and (2 hrs.)
VattU (p. 3K).
To LiKTHTHAL, by the Biohetli Pass (74280, 8 hrs., not difficult ; *View
of the Hausstock, Vorab, and Glamisch. Descent by the Dumachthal.
II. LAKE OP LUCERNE AND ENVIRONS.
THE ST. GOTTHARD.
23.
24.
25.
26.
27.
28.
29.
30.
31.
32.
33.
34.
From Ziiricli to Zug and Lucerne 68
i. Railway Journey 68
ii. From Zurich to Zug via Horgen 69
Lucerne 70
Lake of Lucerne 74
From Beckenried to Seelisberg, 76. — Kurhaus Seelis-
berg. Seeliflberger Kulm, 77. — Morschacb, Axenfels,
AxensteiD, Stoss, Frohnalpstock, 78. — Isenthal, Uri-
Bothstock, 80.
TheRigi 81
Pilatus 88
From Zug and Lucerne to Arth 90
i. From Zug to Arth. Lake of Zug 90
11. From Lucerne to Kussnacht and Arth 91
From Wadenswyl to Einsledeln, Schwyz, and Brun-
nen 92
Ascent of the Goltschallenberg from Biberbruck, 92. —
From Bapperswyl to Einsiedein ; the Etzel, 92. — From
Sattel to Egeri and Goldau, 94. — From Einsiedein to
Schwyz, crossing the Hacken or the Iberger Egg, 94, 95.
From Lucerne to Belllnzona. St. Gotthard Railway . 95
The Goldau Landslip, 96. — TheMythen, 97. — Schachen-
thal; Ross-Stock; Erstfelder Thai, 98. — Bristenstock ;
Hohe Faulen, 99. — The St. Gotthard Road from Amsteg
to Ooschenen, 99. — From Airolo through the Val Piora
to S. Maria and Disentis, 101.
From Goschenen to Airolo over the St. Gotthard . . 104
The Goschenen Valley, Passes to Realp, the Trift Gla-
cier, and the Steinalp •, the Fleckistock. 104. — TheBadus
or Six Madun; the Gurschenstock and Gamsstock, 106.
— Lucendro Lake, 106. — The Piszo Centrales Prosa;
Fibbia •, Piz Lucendro ; Sorescia, 107. — From the St. Gott-
hard over the Orsino Pass to Realp, and over the Lecki
Pass to the Furka, 107, 108.
The Maderaner Thai 108
Hiifigletfcher; DiLssistock'; Oberalpstock, etc., 109. —
Clariden Pass; Hiifi Pass; Kammliliicke; Ruchkehlen
Pass; Scheerhorn - Griggeli Pass; Brunni Pass, 110.
From Goschenen to the Rhone Glacier. The Furka . 110
From Realp over the Gavanna Pass to the Val Bedretto,
111. — Tiefengletscher; Tiefensattel ; Winterlticke, 111.
— Furkahom ; Galenstock ; Muttenhorn. From the Furka
across the Rhone Glacier to the Grimsel Hospice, 112.
From Lucerne to Altdorf by Stans and Engelberg.
The Surgnen 112
Stanser Horn; Buochser Horn, 113. — Excursions from
Engelberg : Oberschwand ; Tatschbachfall ; Rigithalstock ;
Engelberg«Bothstock ; Uri-Rothstock ; Titlis; Spannort,
114, 115. — From Engelberg to Erstfeld over the Spannort-
68 Route 23. AFFOLTERN. From Ziirieh
joch or the Scblo88b«rglacke ^ to Wasen over the
Grassen Pass; to the Steinalp over theWendenjoch, 115.
35. From Lucerne over the Branig to Brienz (and Mei-
ringen) 116
From Lucerne to Alpnach-Gestad by land, 116. — BiLrgen-
stock. Footpath from Stansstad to Sachseln, 117. — The
Schwendi-Kaltbad \ the Helchthal i over the Storregg or
the Juchli to Engelberg*, over the Tannenalp to the
Engstlenalp ; and over the Laubergrat to M eiringen, 118.
36. From Meiringen to Engelberg. Joch Pass 119
From the Engstlenalp to the Melchthal *, Erzegg ; Hohen-
stoUen, 120. — Ascent of the Titlis from the Engstlenalp,
120. — From the Engstlenalp over the Satteli to the
Qadmenthal, 121.
37. From Meiringen to Wasen. Susten Pass 121
Triftthal; excursions from the Trifthiitte (Dammastock,
etc.) ; over the TrifUimmi to the Rhone Glacier ; Furt-
wang-Sattel and Steinlimmi, 121, 122. — From the
Stein Inn over the Sustcnlirami to the Goschenenalp ;
Brunnenstoek, 122.
38. From Lucerne to Bern. Entlebuch. Emmenthal . . 123
Schwarzenberg; Bramegg B.oute; the Napf, 123. — The
Schimberger Bad. Ascent of the Brienser Rothhom
from Schiipfheim, 124.
39. From Lucerne toLenzburg (and Aarau) byHochdorf.
Aargau and Lucerne 'SeethaV Railway 125
Excursions from Hochdorf: Hohenrain; Horben; Ober-
reinach, etc., 126. — From Hitzkirch to Wohlen by
Fahrwangen, 126. — From Beinwyl to Bcinach and
Menzikon; Homberg, 126. — From Boniswyl to Fahr-
wangen; Brestenberg, 126.
S8. From Ztirich to Zng and Lucerne.
Comp. Map*., pp. 36^ 74.
1. Bailway Jonmey.
41 Vz M. Railway to Zug in IV2 hr. (4fr. 5, 2 fr. 85, 2 fr. 5 c); to
Lucerne in 2i/s hrs. (7 fr., 4fr. 90, 3 fr. 50 c.; return-tickets at reduced rates).
On leaving the station the train crosses the 8%hl, and at (2^2 M-)
Altstetten diverges from the Bale line (p. 18). To the left rises the
long Uetliberg (^, 36), which the line skirts in a wide curve. To
the right the pretty valley of the Limmat. 51/2 M. Vrdorf; 8 M.
Birmensdorf, We now follow the pleasant Reppisch-Thal. To the
left the hotel on the Uetliberg. The train ascends through a tunnel
under the Ettenberg to (12 M.) Bonstetten-Wettsehwyl (ISOdO. To
the right the Bernese Alps and Pilatus ; and to the left, farther on,
the Engelberg Alps, with the Uri-Rothstock and the Titlis, become
visible. 14 M. Hcdingen; 151/2 M. AffoUem (Lowe). To the left
rises the Aeugater Berg (2723^), at the foot of which lie Aeugat and
the Batha of Wengi. 18 M. Meitmenstetten (1550').
Diligence daily in 50 min. to Hansen (1980*; *LSiDe)^ at the W. base
of the Albis (p. 37); near it the hydropathic Curhaus of Albitbrunn. Near
to Lucerne. ZUG. 23. Route. 6^
I<9pe/, 11/2 M. to the S., on the road to Baar (p. 70), Zwingli was slain
on llfh Oct. 1531, in battle against the Bom. Gath. cantons (comp. p. S6).
20 M. Kfwnau (Adler). Ne&i Zug we c^oss the Loncy which
deseends from the Egeri-See (p. 94).
241/2 M. Zug (1384'; pop. 4924; ♦fliracft, R. 2-3, D, incl.
wine, 3, pens. 4 fr., R. extra; *Zureherhofi BeUevue; *Oeht; Folk;
Krone; *Ldwe, on the lake, R., L., & A. 2 fr. 70 c, B. 1 fr., good
beer in the reetanrant; Linde; Hdtel Bahnhof, with garden restau-
rant; Pens. Ouggithal., on the road to Felsenegg), the capital of
the smallest Swiss oanton, with six churches and six chapels, lies
on the lahe of that name. The Church of the Capuchins contains
an Entombment by Calvaert. In the Arsenal are preserved ancient
captured weapons and flags , and the standard stained with the
blood of its bearer Peter Collin, who fell atArbedo in 1422. At the
S. end of the town, on the lake, is the Hospital^ built In 1854.
Handsome new Government Buildings in the Renaissance style.
Fine view from the ''Platzwehr% or quay. Good Lake Baths.
Steamboat on the Ldke of Zvg to Arth^ see P> 91.
On the W. slope of the Zuger Bergy IV2 hr. from Zug (good road *, om-
nibus from the station at 11 and 6; fare 2V2fr.), are the "'Kurhaus Felsenegg
(3025'; pens. 7-8 fr.), with a very fine view towards the W., and (5 min. far-
ther) the ^Kurhaus SohSnfels (B. iVz-S, pens. 7V2-9 fr.), with pleasant
gronndf, also comnMinding a beautiful view. This spot is recommended
for a prolonged stay ; pleas ant wood- walks. The (V* hr.) **HochujacM (3Ilffil'),
the summit of the Zuger Berg, commands a complete survey of the Alpine
chain ; below us, to the £., lies the Lake of Egeri (p. 94). — Pretty walks
also to the (20 min.) Hilnguiocl and the Q;% hr.) * HorhachgHUch (3071'),
which affords a charming view of the lakes of Zug and Lucerne and the
Rigi. — At Menzingen in the pretty valley of the Lorte^ i^/2 M. to the E. of
Zug (diligence twice daily), is the 'Behfinbrunn Hydropathic, well fitted up.
The train backs out of the station and skirts the flat N. bank of
the Lake of Zug (p. 96), crosses the Lone near its influx into the
lake, and recrosses it at its efflux near (271/2 M.) Cham (*Rabe), a vil-
lage with a slender zinc-covered church-tower and a large manufactory
of condensed milk. Fine view of Zug to the left. On the hill above
Zug are the summer resorts just mentioned ; in the middle distance
rises the Rigi; and to the right are the Stanser Horn, the Engelberg
Alps, and Pilatus. Beyond (31 M.) Bothkrens (Rail. Restaur.), the
junction of the St. Gotthard (p. 96) and the Muri and Aarau (p. 20)
lines, we enter the valley of the Reuss. 33 M. Oisikon. Through an
opening to the left we survey the Rigi, from the Kulm to the Roth-*
stock. 37 M. Ebikon. To the right rises the Hundsrucken. The train
skirts the Roihsee, 1^2 ^' long, and crosses the Reuss by a bridge
178 yds. long. The line now unites with the Swiss Central (p. 20)
and the Lucerne and Bern lines (p. 123), and finally passes through
a tunnel under the Giitsch (p. 74).
411/2 M. Lueemey see p. 70.
ii. From Zflrioh to Zug by Sorgen.
Kailwat from Zurich to (11 M.) Horgen^ »/« ^^- (steamer in l*/* hr,,
7
70 RovXt^i. LUCERNE.
see p. 37). Post Omnibds daily (8.50 a. m.) from Horgen to (12V3 M.) Zug
in 2 hrs. 36 min.; carr. with one horse in 2 hrs., 12 fr.
To Horgen (1394'), see pp. 38, 40. The road ascends in wind-
ings, passing the Kurhaus JBocfcen, to (3 M.) Hauruthi. where,
by the flnger-post, it joins the road from Wadenswyl. Several
fine yiews of the lake, the Sentis, Speer, Gnrflrsten, and the
Glarus Mts. About ^2 ^* f&^er we reach the saddle of the hill
(2245'), and, at the top of the hill, the (1 M.) Inn Zum Morgenthal,
at Hinel. We then descend gradually into the valley of the SiM,
which separates the cantons of Zurich and Zug. The (2 M.) covered
Sihl-Br&oke (1745'; *Krone, good wine) replaces one destroyed
during the war of the Separate League in 1847.
Pedestrians should take the road from Horgen over the Hosgeb Egg
to the Sihlbriicke (iVz H.), which shortens the route by 2 M., and affords
far finer views. Xear (2 M.) Wydenbach rises the ^Zimmerbebo (2536'),
1/4 hr. to the right, with a beautiful view of the Lake of Zurich, the sombre
valley of the Sihl, the Lake of Zug, the Alps, and particularly the My then,
the Bigi, and Pilatus. About '/« 1^* beyond Wydenbach the road reaches the
Hirtelhdhe (2415'*, Inn), its highest point, with another fine prospect. We
join the high-road near the Sihlbriicke.
The Zug road leads through an undulating tract, past the W.
side of a wooded hill bearing the rains of the Baarburg (2086').
Beyond the wood (2 M.) we obtain a view of Baar , the Lake of
Zug, the Rigi, and Pilatus. To the left, ^4 M. farther, on the
Lorze, which we cross, is a large cotton-factory. The Rigi and Pila-
tus now appear in all their grandeur. At (IV4 ^0 Baar (1453';
*Lindenhof ; Sennhof; Krone; Rossli) there is another large mill.
A curious custom, not unknown in other parts of Switzerland, pre-
vails here. On the occasional opening of the graves the skulls are
conveyed by the relatives of the deceased to the charnelhouse, where
they are kept in symmetrical piles. Then (21/2 M.) —
1272 M. Zug, see p. 69.
24. Lucerne.
Sailway Station (PI. E, 5) on the left bank of the lake. The steam-
boats to Fliielen generally touch here after leaving the Schweizerhof Quay ;
those from Fliielen touch first at the station, and then at the quay.
Hotels. *'ScHWBizEBH0F (PI. a), a spacious hotel admirably fitted up,
with two ^d^pendances**, and ^Luzsbneb Hof (PI. b), both on the Schweizer-
hof Quay, R., L., & A. from 5fr., B. IV2, D. 4»/2-5 fr. •, "Hotel National
(PI. q), on the Quai National, R., L., A A. from 6, D. 5fr. ^ Hotel-Pensiok
Beaubivagk (PI. r) and ^Hotkl de l'Eubopb, both on the lake, on the
Halden-Strasse ^ "Enolischer Hof (PI. c); ^Schwan (PI. d), R., L.,, & A.
4V2-5V2> D- ^Vafr- i*H6TELDuRior (PI. e), ad^joining the last (these three on
the lake, on the right bank); "HdTSL du Lac (PI. g), on the left bank of
the Reuss, not far from the station, R., L., & A. from 372? !>• S'/zi pens. 7V2-9
fr. ; '^HCtel dd St. Qotthaed (Pl^), with restaurant, near tlie station, R-,
L., & A. 3V2-4V2, B. IV2, B. 3V2fr. vTWage (Balakces, PI. f). near the third
bridge over the Reuss, R., L., A A. 3i'2-4, B. IV2, D. 4. — Inexpensive:
•Enoel, R. & a. 2V2, D. 3 fr. ; "Adleb (P1. h), R. IV2 fr.-, "Weisses RCssli
(PI. i), R. & A. 2V2, B. IV4, D. incl. wine 3V2 fr.; *H6tel de la Posts
(PI. k); Hotel des ALPKt (PI. n), R. & A. 2>/2-3fr. •, ^Hotkl Kuntz, Kap-
pelgasse; ^Moub; Hirsch; "^Krong^ ^'Kreuz; "^Wilder Mann, R. & A. 2-
2V2fr. ; *Raben ; Pfistern; *METZtiERN'.
Peai
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Kursaal. LUCERNE. 24, Route. 71
PensionB. *'Kaufmann; Waller d' JSchloss O'segnH-MaU; *' Villa O'segnet-
Matt (Oelpke); TVfo/t (lake-baths, see below) ^ farther on, */See&ufv (steam-
boat stat. ; p. 91). All these are on the Eiissnacht road, close to the lake.
Belvedere i above Tivoli (pens. 5-7 fr.); Faller, above Beaurivage; *AV«-
Schweizerhaut (Kost), loftily situated; Pen$i<m Anglaise (Alt-SchweUer-
halts) ; Kost-Ha/liger^ Villa Deschwanden, Bramberg ^ d; Stoeker, near the
Musegg-8tr. \ Hdt.-Pens. GUtsch (D. 3V2, pens. 8 fr.) and •Peiw. WallU^ on
the Oatsch (p. 74), with charming view ; *Suter (pens. 5-6 fr.), on the hill
of Gibraltar (p. 74); Behdnau^ on the Meggen-8tr., 2 M. from Lucerne. Still
higher, to the 8. of Lucerne (railway to Kriens in 12 min., thence an ascent
of */4 hr. ; one-horse carr. from Lucerne 12 fr. ; comp. p. 74) *Kurhau$ Son-
nenherg^ with pleasant grounds and a fine view (7 fr. per day). Pen*. Stutz^
see p. 116.
jEleataurants. *'Kuraaal (adm. free except when concerts are given);
*'St. Gotthardy near the station, see above ; Ca/4 du Thidtre and Alpen-
club , on the Reuss ; *Stadtho/; Hungaria (Hungarian wines) ; Cafi du Lae,
by the. Protestant church; Cafi de» Alpe$ (with a few bedrooms), on the
Schweizerhof-Quai. — Beer. *^Muth^ at the Weggis Gate ; Kreut (see above) ;
Freierihof^ by the theatre, near the Kapellbriicke, on the left bank of the
Reuss; Lbwengarteny near the Lion Monument. — Oonfeetioner. Berger,
near the 8tadthof.
Kursaal on the Quai National (PI. H 3), with reading, concert, and
ball-rooms, restaurant, theatre, and garden. Band daily, 4.a0-6 p.m. Ad-
mission 50 c.; for one day 1 rr. ; per week 6 fr., fortnight 10, month 15,
whole season 30 fr. — Theatre (French operettas) : stalls 4 , pit and
balcony 2 fr.
Baths in the lake by the Quai National, above the Kursaal; swim-,
ming 25, separate bath GO c. — Lake-baths also near the Tivoli (see above).
Baths in the Beuss below the town, with swimming-basin. Warm baths
at F elder- Lehmann's^ Spreuer-Briicke.
Picture Gallery of the Kunet-GeulUchaft and Hiatorioal Kuaeum in
the Rathhaus (p. 73), from Ist Jime to 15th Oct. (9-6 o'clock; adm. 1 fr.).
— Troxler'g Exhibition of Painting* and Antiquities^ at the Fortuna, next
the 8tadthof (adm. Vs &•)•
Keyer'a Biorama (PI. 15), at the Weggis Gate, contains panoramas
from the Rigi and Pilatus with different lights (adm. li/sfr.).
Post and Telegraph Offices on the left bank of the Reuss, by the Jesuiten-
kirche. Branch Office (diligence tickets and Poste Restante letters obtain-
ed here only) on the Schweixerhof Quay , adjoining the Engl. Hof, where
there is also a goods-agency and exchange-office. A new post-of Ace is about
to be opened near the station. — Steamboats see pp. 74, 78, 91.
Cabs. For 1/4 hr. , 1-2 pers. 80 c., 3-4 pers. 1 fr. 20 c. (to or from the
station 1 or 2 fr.); for 1 hr., 2 fr. 50 or 3fr. 60 c. ; each box 30 c. — To
Seeburg 11/2 or 2 fr. ; Meggen 3V2 or5fr. ; Kiissnacht 6V2 or 9fr. ; Hergis-
wyl 4V2 or 6V2 fr. — From 10 p.m. to 6 a.m. double fares.
Rowing Boats, usually 75 c. per far. ; for each boatman 75 c. ; to Weggis
or Stansstad with two men 41/2 fr., 3 men 6 fr., 4 men 7i/s fr. ; Brunnen
with 3 men 12 fr., with 4 men 15 fr., Ac.
English Ohuroh Service in the Protestant Church in summer. Presby-
terian Service in the Maria-Hilf Church, at 11 and 6.
Beyond the striking beauty of its situation, Thorvaldsen's celebrated
Lion (p. 72), and the Gletschergarten, Lucerne offers little inducement for
a prolonged stay. The finest views are from the *'Gutsch (cable-tram, p.
74), and from the (20 min.) *'Drei Linden. We ascend by the Lion Mon-
ument to the right to the Capuchin Monastery on the WesemUn^ pass round
the monastery to the right, and ascend by a path to the 'hill of the three
limes'*, which commands a beautiful view of Lucerne, its environs, and the
Alps with the Titlis in the centre, and the Finster-Aarhom and the
Schreckhomer in the distance to the right.
Lucerne (1437'; pop. 17,850), the capital of the canton of
that name, lies on the Lake of Lucerne or Vierwaldstatter See , at
the efflux of the Reuss. It is enclosed by well-preserved walls and
72 Route 24. LUCERNE. Hafkirche.
watch - toilers, erected in 1385, which give it a picturesque ap-
pearance, while its amphitheatrical situation on the lake, between
the Rigi and Pilatus, and facing the snow-clad Alps of Uri and
Engelberg, is one of surpassing beauty.
The clear, emerald-green Reuss issues from the lake with the
swiftness of a torrent. Its banks are connected by four bridges.
The handsome New Bridge, the highest, as iron bridge paved with
stone, close to the end of the lake, crosses from the town to the
railway-station. The second, the Kapellbrucke, carried obliquely
across the stream, is covered with a roof, which is painted with
154 scenes from the lives of St. Leodegar and St. Mauritius, the
patron-saints of Lucerne, and from Swiss history. Adjoining the
bridge, in the middle of the river rises the picturesque old Wasser-
tliiinni containing the admirably arranged Municipal Archives. Ac-
cording to tradition, this building was once a lighthouse (lucema),
and gave its name to the town. St. Peters Chapel (PI. 11), at the
N. end of the bridge, has four modern altar-pieces by Deschwanden.
The third bridge, the BeuMbrucke, is of a more modern charac-
ter. The fourth, the Mfthlen- or Spreaer-Braeke, is roofed like the
first, and adorned with paintings of the 'Dance of Death'. — The
Reuss and the lake are enlivened with swans and flocks of half-
tame waterfowl (Fulica atra; black, with white foreheads).
The *Sohweus6rlief Quay, with its fine avenue of chestnuts,'
occupies the site of a bay of the lake which was filled up in 1852,
and affords a delightful view. The stone indicator on a projecting
platform points out the chief places in the environs.
View. To the left the Bigi Group ; the highest point to the left is the
Kulm with the hotels i on the saddle between the Kulm and the Eothstock
is the Staffel Inn; more to the right the Schildy the Dossen^ and the
isolated Vitznauer Stock. To the left of the Bigi, above the hills by the
lake, rises the peak of the JRossberg; to the right of the Vitznauer Stock,
in the distance, are the singularly indented peaks of the Ross-Stock Chain;
then the Nieder-Bauen or Seelisberger Kulm and the Ober-Bauen; nearer
are the dark Biirgenstock^ with its hotel, and the Buochser Horn; to the
left and right of the latter tower the Engelberg Alps^ the last and highest to
the right being the Tillis ; farther to the right the Stanserhorn^ the mountains
of Kerns and Sachseln^ and to the extreme right Pilatus.
On the new Quai National, which continues the Schweizerhof
Quay to the E., is the Kursaal (see p. 71).
The Gothic Protestant Church (PI. 10), at the back of the W.
'd^pendance' of the Schweizerhof, was completed in 1861.
On rising ground at the E. end of the quay is the *Hofkire]ie,
or Stiftskirche (PI. 8), restored in the 17th cent., with two slender
towers erected in 1506. It contains a fine pulpit, carved stalls,
stained-glass windows, and two side-altars with reliefs in carved
wood, that on the N. side representing the death of the Virgin
(15th cent.). The Churchyard contains some good monuments.
Frescos in the S.W. arcades by Deschwanden.
Not far from the Stiftskirche, outside the (N.E.) Weggis Gate, .
id V4^- ^^^^ tbo Schweizerhof, is the famous "XioxL of LuoemeX^
Bathfiaus. LUCERNE. 2d. Route. 73
^1. 14), a most impressive work, executed in 1821 to the memory of
i& oMceYs and about 760 soldiers of the Swiss guard, who fell in the
defence of the Tuileries on 10th Aug., 1792. The dying lion (28' in
length), reclining in a grotto, transfixed by a broken lance, and shelter-
ing the Bourbon lily with its paw, is hewn out of the natural sandstone
rock after a model (exhibited gratis in the adjoining building) by
the celebrated Danish sculptor Thorvaldsen. Inscription : Hdvetio-
rum fidei ac virtuU. Die XAug. , // et III Sept. 1 792. Haec sunt no-
mrM. eotum, qui ne aaeramenti fidem fallerent, fottisBtme pugnantea
ceciderunt. Duces XXVI. Solerti amicofum cur a eladi superfuerunt
Duces XVI. The rock which bears the inscription and names of
the officers is overhung with trees and creepers. A spring at the
top flows down on one Bide and forms a dark pool at the base, sur-
rounded by trees and shrubs. The monument is illuminated with
Bengal lights every Saturday evening (1 fr.). The neighbouring
Chapel (inscription , Invictis Pax) contains the escutcheons of the
deceased officers. — The Lion Monument Museumy opposite the
Lion, contains representations from the revolutionary period and
an 'international picture gallery' (adm. ^2 ^r.).
On the N. side of the monument is the entrance to the*01etscher-
garten (adm. 1 fr.), a most interesting relic of the ice-period,
with 32 holes formed by whirlpools , of different sizes (the largest
being 26' wide and 30' deep), well-preserved 'Gletscherschlifife',
or rocks worn by the action of the ice, etc., discovered in 1872,
and connected by means of steps and bridges. A kiosque here
contains Pfyffers Relief of Central Switzerland, on a scale of 51/3
inches to the mile, 23' long, and 13' wide; in another there is a
small collection of relics from lake-dwellings.
To the right of the Lion Monument is Stauffer's Kuseum (PI. 25;
adm. 1 fr.), containing about 600 stuffed Alpine animals in groups.
The Bathhaus (PI. 1) contains some good carving, of 1605,
and portraits of magistrates. On the ground-floor is a gallery of an-
cient and modem Pictures (Ist June to 15th Oct. ; p. 69), and an
^Historical and Art-Industrial Museum.
The Museum contains the collections of the Historical Society, com-
prising relics of the pre-historic, Celtic-Roman, Germanic and mediaeval
periods; the armoury from the Arsenal, embracing weapons, flags, and
trophiea of the battles of the 14th cent, and of the Burgundian and Mi-
lanese wars; the Antiquarium of the Historical Society, consisting of
various relics and representations of the places where they were found.
Among the historical objects may be mentioned curiosities from tombs,
^ic8 from the lake-dwellings, and an admirable bronze statue of Mercury.
In the armoury is the coat-of-mail of Duke Leopold of Austria. A banner
presented by Pope Julius II., and a chased sword-handle CTellenschwerf)
of the I6th cent, should also be noticed. Here, too, is exhibited a ^Col-
lection of Stained Olctss of the 14th-18th cent., including a series of armorial
bearings of the 17th cent.
A fresco on the tower represents the death of the magistrate
Gnndolflngen at the Battle of Sempach. The Fountain inthe Wein-
markt (PI. D, 3) dates from 1481.
The JeBnit GhuToh (PI. 9), near the Post-offlce, contains an
74 Route 25. LAKE OF LUCERNE.
altar-piece in the second chapel to the right, representing St. Niko-
lans von der Fliie (p. 118), behind which is the robe of the saint.
-Y" The *&at8ch (1722'), a steep ascent at the N.W. end of the
town (cable-train in 3 min., every V2 ^^' ; fare 30, return-ticket
50 c), affords a splendid survey of the town, the lake, the Blgi, and
the Alps of Uri, Unterwalden, and Engelberg. * Hotel and£e«tatir.,
with wooded grounds. — A pretty walk through the woods leads
from the Gutsch to the (IV2 hr.) Kathavks Sonnenberg (p. 71),
whence we may descend to (25 min.) Krient (*Pilatus) and take
the train back to (12 min.) Lucerne. — The S.E. spur of the
Gutsch is called Gibraltar (pens., see p. 71).
25. Lake of Lucerne.
Comp. also Map^ p. 80.
Steamboat 6-7 times daily between Lucerne and Fliielen in 2s/4 hrs.,
express in 2V4 brs. (to Hertenstein 35 min., Weggis 45 min., Vitznau 1,
Buochs IV4, Beckenried IV2, Gersau iV4, Treib 2, Brunnen 2 hrs. 5 min.,
Sisikon 2 hrs. 10 min., Isleten 2 hrs. 20 min., Bauen 2 hrs. 25 min., Tells-
Platte 21/2 , Fliielen 2*/4 hrs. \ the steamers do not aJl touch at Herten-
stein, Buochs, Treib, Sisikon, and Tells - Platte). Fare to Fliielen 3 fr.
65 or 2 fr. 6Uc. ; return - tickets available for two days at a fare and a
half i season-tickets still cheaper. Trunk 40-80 c, including embarcation
and landing. All the steamers, except the quick boat at 5.30 a.m., touch
at the railway-station of Lucerne after leaving the quay (comp. p. 70). Grood
restaurants on board. Time-tables and useful maps of the lake to be had
at the steamboat-offices gratis.
The **Lake of Lucerne (1434'; Vierwaldstatter See, or 'Lake of
the Four Forest Cantons'), which is bounded by the 'forest cantons'
of Uri, Schwyz, Unterwalder^ , and Lucerne, is unsurpassed in
Switzerland, and even in Europe, in magnificence of scenery. Its
beautiful banks are also intimately associated with those historical
events and traditions which are so graphically depicted by Schiller
in his William Tell. The lake is nearly cruciform in shape, the bay
of Lucerne forming the head, the bays of Kiissnacht and Alpnach
the arms, and those of Buochs and Uri the foot. Length from Lu-
cerne to Fliielen 23 M. , from Alpnach to Kiissnacht at the ex-
tremities of the arms 12^/2 M . ; width Vz-l'Vi ^ • 5 greatest depth 700' .
Rowing or Sailing Boats are seldom used by travellers, being badly
constructed and uncomfortable. Tari£f at the inns on the lake. — ' The wind
on the lake is apt to change with extraordinary rapidity, and the boatmen
declare that it blows from a different quarter as each promontory is
rounded. The most violent is the Fdhn (S. wind), which sometimes renders
theS. bay of the lake impracticable for sailing or rowing-boats, and dangerous
even for steamboats. In fine weather the Bite CS. wind) usually prevails
on the bay of Uri from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., and a gentle S. wind during
the rest of the day.
Soon after leaving Lucerne the steamer affords a strikingly pic-
turesque view of the town, with its towers and battlements. To
the left rises the Rigi, to the right Pilatus, and facing us the
Biirgenstock, the Buochser Horn, and the Stanser Horn ; to the left
of Pilatus, above the hills of Sachseln, the Wetterhorn, the Schreck-
horner, the Monch, Eiger, and Jungfrau gradually become visible.
VITZNAU. 2S, Route. 75
but the Finsteraarhorn is hidden. The small promontory to the
left, with a pinnacled villa, is the Meggenhom. In front of it lies
Altstad ('old shore') , an islet planted with poplars , so named be-
cause the bank of the lake formerly extended to this point, while
both banks of the Renss lower down were mere marshes. Frag-
ments of an old custom-house are still to be seen on the island.
Beyond the Meggenhorn the lake of Kiissnacht opens to the
left, and the bay of Stansstad to the right, and we have now reach-
ed the central part (^Kreuztrichter') of the cross formed by the lake.
In the distance to the left, Ku88nacht(j^. 91) is visible; in the fore-
ground, NeU'Habsburg (p. 91). To the right the dark, forest-clad
Burgenstock (3720^) rises abruptly from the water (see p. 113").
From this part of the lake the Pilatu8(jp. 88) is very striking. Its
barren, rugged peaks, seldom free from cloud or mist, frown grimly
over the cheerful landscape, in marked contrast to the Bigi on the
opposite bank, the lower slopes of which are covered with gardens,
fruit-trees, and houses, and the upper with woods and green pastures.
Beyond the promontory of Tanzenberg, in a small bay to the left,
Is the handsome ^Pension Schloss Hertenstein (7-8 fr.) ; on a tongue
of land beyond it is the ruined castle of Hertenstein, amidst wood.
Facing us, in the distance, peeps the double-peaked Scheerhom
(p. 62). Stat. Hertenstein (*Pens. Hertenstein, dependance of
Pension Schloss Hertenstein, and reached either on foot through
the park in 10, or by boat in 5 miu.). Then —
^ Weggis — Hotels. *H6t. du Lac, pens. 6-9 fr. 5 *Lowe, R. 2, 1). 3,
peas. 6-7 fr. ; ^Post, at the steamboat-quay, '^Bellevue, finely situated
'/4 M. to the W., 8-9 fr., adapted for a stay of some time; Pens. Belve-
DEEE & Villa KOhler, with garden, pens, from 6 fr. ; Dr. Gerig's 'Paradif.s'
Peks.; 'Hot. -Pens. Lutzelau (see below).
WeggiSf a thriving village in a very sheltered situation, the
garden of Lucerne, was formerly the usual landing-place for the
Rigi (comp. pp. 81, 84).
A road to the N. leads to (2 M. ; or a path to the right, passing the
church, in V2 hr. to) Oreppen (p. 91). Between the road and the path
(which ascends for 1/4 hr. at the schoolhouse of Weggis) rises the Rigi-
blick, a grassy hill affording a fine survey of the lake. — Beautiful walk to
the E., by the road skirting the lake, to Liltzelau CPens., 5 fr.) and
(3 M.) VUznau. A new road continues from Vitznau by the Obere Hase
(6ne view of the lake) to (1 hr.) Oersatt and past the Kindlimot'd Chapel
(p. 76) to (1V« hr.) Brunnen.
Nearing Vitznau, we observe on the hill-side to the left the rail-
way-bridge across the Schnurtobel (p. 82), and high above it the
Hdtel Rigi-First (p. 87). Vitznau (*H6t. ^ Restaur. Rigibahn,
R., L., &A.3V2, B.IV4, pens. 6-7 fr.; Hdt.-Pens. Pfyffer, pens. 5-7
fr. ; *H6tel Rigi, R. 2-21/2, D. 3, pens. 5-6 fr.,- Pens. Zimmermann
turn Kreuz), prettily situated at the base of the Vitznauer Stock,
is the terminus of the Rigi Railway (p. 82). High above the vil-
lage rises the precipitous Rothfluh, with the Waldisbalnij a stalactite
grotto 330 yds. long, but difficult of access.
Beyond Vitznau two rocky promontories, aptly called the Nasen
76 Route 25» GERSAU. Lake of
(noses), and perhaps once united, project far into the lake, apparently
terminating it , the one being a spur of the Rigi , the other of
the Biirgenstock fp. 117). Beyond the E. Nase the snowy pyramid
of the Todi (p. ol), and more to the left, above the Pragel, the
Glarnisch (p. 64) become yisible. Beyond this strait the lake is
called the Buoehser See, from Buoehs (* Krone; Hirseh; "^Restaur.
Kreuzgdrten), a village to the right, which was burned down by
the French in 1798. Above Buochs rise the Buoehser Horn and
the Stanser Horn (see p. 113). All the steamers do not touch at
Buochs. Between Buochs and Beekenried (pretty walk of ^^4 hr.)
extensive operations have been carried out to regulate the torrents
descending from the Buochser Horn and the Schwalmis.
Beekenried (*8onne; *Mondj R. &A.2, B. 1, pens. 7fr.; ♦i^td-
waldner Hofy pens. 6-8 fr. ; Adler), on the S. bank, where the
delegates from the Four Forest Cantons used to assemble. (There
are two piers here : one near the ^Sonne' for the steamers to Fluelen,
the other by the 'Mond' for those to Lucerne.) In front of the church
rises a fine old walnut-tree. In the neighbourhood are several
cement-factories and the picturesque Rieeten Waterfall.
One-horse carriage to Engelberg (p. 114) 18 fr., two-horse 30 fr. (from
Buochs 15 or 25 fr.)i to Stans 6 or 12, Stansstad 8 or 15, Alpnach 11 or
18, Grafenort 12 or 20, Seelisberg 13 or 25, Schonegg 6 or 12, Brienz 35 or
55 fr., and fee.
FsoH Bbokenkibd to Skelisbbbg [(23/4 hrs.). The iroad leads by the
(84 hr.) charmingly situated ^Pension SchSneck (water and whey-cure, board
6 fr.) to (V4 hr.) the village of Emmetten (2580'; Post, Engel, both well
spoken of; Stern; pens, at all three 6 fr.); then through a somewhat
monotonous dale between the Stutxberg and Ifiederbauen (p. T7) past Uie
picturesque Seeli to the (I'/i hr.) Kurhaus Seelisberg and (8 min.) the vil-
lage of SeeKsberg (p. T?).
On the opposite bank, on a fertile strip of land between the
Vitznauer Stock and the Hochfluh, lies the pretty village of Gersau
(*H6t.'Pen8. Muller, R. 2-4, D. 3V2, pens. from9fr. ; *OersauerHof;
Hirsch ; Sonne ; *Zur Ilge, plain), in the midst of orchards, with
its broad-eaved cottages scattered over the hill-side. It was an
independent canton down to 1817, when it was annexed to Canton
Schwyz. The village, being protected from cold winds, is a resort
of invalids. In the ravine behind it is a silk-spinning mill , and
on the mountain above is the Rigi-Scheidegg Kurhaus (p. 81).
After the church-festival a kind of ^diet" used formerly to be held
at Gersau by all the beggars of the surrounding country, accompanied
by merry-makings which lasted for three days. — Path to the ^i^t-
Scheidegg^ see p. 87. — To (41/2 M.) Brunnen (p. 78) a beautiful walk by
the road skirting the lake.
The chapel on the bank to the E. of Gersau is called Kind-^
limord ('infanticide') from the tradition that a poor fiddler killed
his starving child here by dashing it against the rock indicated by a
black cross. To the E. rise the bare peaks of the two Mytheny at the
base of which, 3M. inland, lies Schwys (p. 94) ; nearer is the church
"^f Ingenhohly and in the distance to the right the Achaelherg or Acks-
^stock (7057'), with its crown of rooks resembling a castle.
Lueeme, SEELISBERG. 25. Route. 77
The steamer now crosses to Treib (^Inn^ rustic), in Canton Uri,
at the foot of the precipitous Sonnenberg, the landing-place for the
village of Seelisberg (2628'; *H6i.-Pen8. Hauser; Pens. Aschwanden^
immediately hehind the church, 5 fr., unpretending; Zum Lowen)
on the hill above, to which a road leads in I1/4 hr, (one-horse carr.
5, two-horse 10, to the Kurhaus 6 or 12 fr., with fee of 2 fr.).
The more direct footpath ascends to the left behind the inn (50
min. ; steep but shady most of the way). By the Chapel of Maria-
Sonnenberg (2772'), 12 min. from the church of Seelisberg, is the
Pension Oriitli (6 fr.) , and near it the little Hotel Mythenstein,
beside which is the ^Kurhaus Seelisberg or Sonnenberg (2772' ;
three houses, with 300 beds; pens. 10-11, A. 1/2 f'*)? * sheltered
spot with pure mountain air, and a favourite health-resort.
Beautiful view from the Kanzli (in the wood to the right at the S.
end of the Kurhaus, '/« hr.), over the lake and the plain as far as the
Weiagenstein. — Ahout V2 hr. 8.W. of the Kurhaus lies the picturesque little
Seelisberger See, or ^Seelf ('little lake", 2471'; with bath-house), on the
precipitous N. side of the *Niederbauen, or Seelisberger Kulm (6316'; guide
5 fr. and fee), which may be ascended from the Kurhaus in 3 V2-4 , from
Beroldingen in 3, or from Emmetten in 31/3 hrs. (see below). Starting
from the Kurhaus, we follow the Emmetten road towards the K^., passing
the Seeli \ after V2 hr. we ascend to the left towards the base of the Bauen,
by a steep and narrow path, which is particularly uncomfortable after
rain. Fart of the ascent, which is suitable for mountaineers only, is through
wood. — The ascent from Beroldingen (see below; good guide, Peter Bissig,
at the 'Schlosschen'*) to the right, rounding the summit of the Kulm, and
leading high above the Seelisberg Lake, is steep, toilsome, and giddy (3 hrs.
in all ; for adepts only). The preferable route leads from Beroldingen to
the left, round the Kubn, and over the UnoUngi-Alp (also 3 hrs.). — The
ascent is easier from EmmeUen (p. 76; experts may dispense with a guide).
The shortest way (3 hrs.) leaving the village at the S. end, follows for a
short distance the right bank of the Kohlthal brook, and then passes
between some houses ; after 20 min. we turn to the right and follow the
tolerably good and distinct path towards the middle of the rocky arSte
at -the W. end of the mountain. From the (IV4 hr.) top we enjoy a fine
view of the lake of Lucerne. Thence along the ridge in IV2 hr. to the
summit. — An easier route, but V2 hr. longer, diverges to the left at
the church (I1/4 hr. from the Kurhaus) and ascends the Kohlthal to a gate
near some chalets (1 hr.). After 2 min. more we cross the bridge io the
left, and ascend by a good but steep zigzag path for 20 min., at first over
a grassy slope, and then entering the wood to the left; 7 min., a bridge
over a cleft; 10 min., a chalet (the path leading to the right of the hill
with a cross). We ascend the slopes beyond the chalet to (V4 hr.) a gate ;
for 12 min. more we walk towards the Bauen, visible to the E., and then
descend a little to a second chalet. Farther on we pass to the right of
a stone stable on the hill ; 40 min. , third chalet (rustic tavern) ; lastly in
zigzags, the best route being round the Bauen, to the pole on the top in
40 min. more. Magnificent view of the entire Lake of Lucerne from liU-
cerne to Fliielen, of the Uri - Bothstock, the Bristenstoek, Todi, Scheer-
hom, Windgallen, etc., and of the Beussthal as far as Amsteg. The di-
stant view, however, is inferior to that from the Rigi. Early in the
morning nearly the whole ascent from Emmetten is in shade.
Those who desire to walk from iSeelisberg to Bauen^ on a bay of Lake Uri,
and thence to cross the lake to Teirs Platte or Fliielen, go straight on from
Sonnenberg (finger-post). After -^/4hr. we diverge to the left to the (6 min.)
^3ehtcdndi/luh (an admirable point), the perpendicular rocks of which are
the Teu/elsmUnster of Schiller's Tell (Act iv, Sc. 1). Returning to the main
path, we descend, without turning either to the right or to the left, to
(»/4 h.) the little chateau of Beroldingen, and thence by a safe, though steep
78 BouU 25. BRUNNEN. . Lake of
and rather uncomfortable path to (1 hr.) Bauen (Tell, poor). Boat from
Bauen to Tellsplatte 2, Riitli 3, Fliielen 4 fr. (higher charges at the
*Teir). — Path to the Riitli, see p. 79.
Opposite Treib, on the E. bank, lies the large village of —
Bnumen. — *Wald8Tattkb Hof, on the lake, with baths, R., L.,
& A. 3-5, D. 4, pens. 8-11 (in spring, 7-9 fr.)^ *H6t.-Pen8. Adlbb, *H6t.-Peks.
HiBSCH, at the steamboat quay, B., L., ii A. 2-3, ^pens.' from 7 fr.; ^Rossli,
Brunnebhof, both near the quay, pens. 6 fr. ; ^Hot.-Penb. Actdebmaub,
6 min. from the lake, with gardens and fine view, pens. 8-10 fr.: *Pens.
GtTscH, with fine view, unpretending ; *Pen8. du Lac, V4 M. to the W. of the
village, 4>/2-6 fr. •, Pens. Bellevue (6 fr.) and Pens. Mythbnstein, (6V« fr.),
both on the Axenstrasse, close to the lake; Hot. Bahnhqf, Euw, Rosek-
oabten , *Fkeihof, Sonne, Rutli, and others, homely. — Restaurant
Zur Drossel, near the quay.
RowiNo Boats : to Treib and back with one boatman 1 fr., with two
2 fr.; Riitli (and back) 21/2 or 4, Tellsplatte 3 or 6, Rutli and Tellsplatte
5 or 8 fr.
Baths (warm and lake-baths) at the Waldstatterhof (lake bath and
towel, 50 c). — Good and cheap wood-carving at LeuihoWs, by the steam-
boat-pier, and at Aufdermauer's, on the Axenstrasse. — Eng. Ch. Sebv.
at the Waldstatter Hof.
Brunnenj the port of Canton Schwyz, a station on the St. Gott-
hard Railway (p. 97), and one of the most beautiful places on the
lake, is partly situated in a flat and marshy valley near the mouth
of the Muota. The old Susthaus, or goods-magazine, is decorated
with quaint frescos.
The GKitsch, a height behind Brunnen, overlooks the two arms of
the lake and the pretty valley of Schwyz. — Shady walks in the neigh-
bouring woods. — From Brunnen to Morschach a good carriage-road (in
shade in the morning) ascends in 1 hr. from the Axenstrasse. The shady
footpath which diverges at the guide-post to the left before the road cuts
off a long curve. 50 Min. "Hdiel Axenfels (about I960'; R. from 2^2,
D. 4, 'pens.' 7 fr.) with gardens and a fine view. A few min. farther on
is the charmingly situated hamlet of {Kfiafilvuih^ (2155^ ; 4»>{/ -f^ffff, fw>;^«-
alp, with gardens, pens, from 5 fr. ; J^efiJA. BeUscharU moderate ; Pens.
Degenbalm, beautifully situated on a eminence" 10 min'. above the village,
pens, from 5 fr.). The road then ascends to the left, immediately behind
the Hot. Frohnalp, passing the Pent. RUtliblick (fine view) to (10 min.)
the spacious '^Eurhaua Azenstein, a hotel and pension (R. 3-4, D. 4, pens.
10-22 fr. ; Eng. Ch. Serv.)j splendidly situated on the Brandli., with a mag-
nificent '^'^Survey of both arms of the lake. Beautiful shady grounds close
to the hotel, containing numerous erratic blocks and interesting traces of
glacier-action. Strangers are admitted to the park, but if residing at the
Hdtel Axenfels only on payment of 9 fr. Besides the road, there is a
Sath from the Oiitsch to the hotel, for the most part in shade (s/4 hr.)
mnibuses run between the Axenstein and Axenfels hotels and the station
and pier at Brunnen (50 min., 2V2 fr-; one-horse carr. 5, two-horse 10 fr.).
The Stoos (42420, theN. spur of the Frohnalp ("^urAaKj, R., L., & A. 31/2,
pens 7-10 fr.), another good point of view, with varied walks, is reached
by a road (in shade in the morning for most of the way) from Morschach
in 2hrs. (carr. and pair from Brunnen in 2V4 hrs., 20 fr.; there and back
25-30 fr.). — The 'Frohnalpatock (6270'; small Inn, five beds), IV2 hr. S.
of the Stoos, reached by a rough path (milk at a chalet half-way), affords
a magnificent view of the lakes of Lucerne and Zug. The panorama of
mountains is, however, inferior to that from the Niederbauen.
Other excursions from Brunnen: to the Lake of Lowerz (p. 96) by
Wylen, and back by Schwyz (p. 96) ; to the Muotathal (p. 63) ; by Ibach,
on the left bank of the Miiota, and back by the right bank; by the
Axenstrasse (p. 79) to Fliielen (9 M. ; best by carr. , the road being
hadeless as far as TelFs Platte; to Fliielen with one horse 8fr.); to the
Lucerne. LAKE OF URI. 25, Route. 79
Kindlimord Chapel (p. 76) and Oersau (p. 76); to the Biitli (see below);
to Seelisberg (p. 77); to the Mythen (p. 97), etc.
At Brunnen begins the S. arm of the lake, called the Timer See
01 *La]ce of Uri. The mountains now rise very abruptly , and the
lake narrows. Lofty peaks, often snow -clad, peep through the
gorges which open at intervals. By the sharp angle which juts into
the lake from the W. bank rises the Wytensteiny or Mytensieiny
a pyramid of rock, 80' high, bearing an inscription in huge gilded
letters to the memory of Schiller, the 'Bard of Tell*. On the N.
side is an inscription to a young Swiss officer, who accidentally lost
his life here. A little farther, below Seelisberg (p. 77), and 10 min.
above the lake, are the three springs of the Butii, or Grutli, trick-
ling from a rock overgrown with vegetation. This spot , with the
adjacent timber-built *Inn in the old German style and pretty
grounds, belongs to the Confederation.
On this plateau, on the night of 7th Nov., 1307, thirty-three men, from
Uri, Schwyz, and Unterwalden, assembled and entered into a solemn league
for the purpose of driving their oppressors from the soil. Tradition relates
that these three fountains sprang up on the spot where the three confederates,
Werner Stauffacher of Steinen in Schwyz, Erntf (Arnold) an der Halden of
Melchthal in Unterwalden, and Walter FUrat of Attinghausen in Uri, stood
when the oath was taken. — ^.A good path ascends in 1 hr. from the Biitli
to the Kurhavs Seelisberg (p. 77).
On the E. bank of the lake runs the *AxenBttaj»e, leading from
Brunnen to (9 M.) Fliielen, and remarkable for the boldness of its
construction , being to a great extent hewn in the rock. Below,
parallel with, or above the road, runs the 8t. Ootthard Railway
(p. 97), skirting the lake in a succession of tunnels and cuttings.
About 1/4 hr. after leaving Brunnen the steamer touches at Sisi-
kon (Pens. Urirothstock, unpretending) on the E. bank. Through
the Riemenstaldenthal (p. 64), on the opposite bank, we observe
the bare Achslenstock (7057 ). We next reach stat. Tell's Platte
(^Restaurants with baths, at the landing-place), 8 min. above which,
on the Axenstrasse, is the *H6tel- Pension zur Tellsplatte (pens.
6fr.), with pleasure-grounds and a charming view. A little to the
S. of the landing-place is a ledge of rock at the base of the Axen-'
berg (BBSS'), where, shaded by overhanging trees and washed by
the lake, stands the romantic TelPs Chapel, rebuUt in 1880, and
adorned with four frescos by Stiickelberg of Bide (protected by a
railing on the side next the lake ; private path to it from the pier
20 c/). It is said to have been originally erected by Canton Uri in
138o on the spot where the Swiss liberator sprang out of Gessler's
boat. On Friday after Ascenslonday at 7 a.m. mass is performed
here, and a sermon preached, the service being attended by the
inhabitants of the neighbourhood in gaily decorated boats. Near the
chapel the lake is upwards of 700' deep. The grandest part of the
Axenstrasse is betiieen Toll's Platte Inn and Fliielen (21/2 M.),
where it pierces the curiously contorted limestone strata of the
Axenfluh, 360' above the lake, by means of a *Tunnel. Beyond the
80 Route 25. ISENTHAL.
chapel Fliielen (which the steamer reaches in 1/4 ^' more) becomes
visible. The scenery of this part of the lake is very striking. Oppo-
site the chapel, on the W. bank, lies the hamlet of Bauen (p. 78),
and, farther on, the dynamite-factory of IsUten, at the mouth of the
Isenthal. On the saddle between the two peaks of the Uri-Rothstock.
which rise above the Isenthal, lies a glacier, distinctly visible from
the steamer; to the left of it the Oitschen (8334') rises abruptly from
the lake, with its summit resembling a castle. Beyond Fllielen the
Reussthal appears to be closed by the pyramidal Bristenstock, with
the KUine and Grosse WindgdUe to the left of it (p. 110).
The Isenthal (see Map , p. 114) may be reached from Fluelen or
Altdorf on foot in 3 hra. \it Seedorf (p. 81), by a path skirting the
lake and ascending to the site of the Fruttkapelle (21880i with a pictar-
esqne view, where the path turns to the left into the valley ^ or by the
steamer from Fluelen (starting at 1.20 p.m.) which touches at Isleten daily -,
or by small boat from Fluelen \ or, best of all, by boat from TelFs Platte
in i/i hr. (2-4 fr.). From Bauen (see above) a pleasant path , affording
splendid views of the lake, ascends round the slope of the Furkelen
direct to Isenthal in V/2 hr. — The path ascending from Isleten unites
at the Fruttkapelle with the path from Seedorf. AfaHOut 1 hr. from Isleten
we reach the prettily situated village of Itenlhal (2452'; *Adler; Jos.
Bissig and Alb. Imfanger, good guides). The valley divides here into the
Orossthal to the right and the Kleinthal to the left. — Through the Gkoss-
THAL, in which lies the Alpine hamlet of St. Jakob^ we may either proceed
to the W., passing between the Hoke Brisen (7894') and the Kaiser stulil
(7877'), over the SchUnegg Pass (6316'), to Ober-Rickenbach and (5V2 hrs.) Wol-
/enschiessen (p. 113); or to the 8.W., over the RotJtgrdtli (8420') between
the Engelberg-Rothstock and the ffasenstoek to (10 hrs.) \Engelberg (p. 114).
The Engelberg-Rothstock (9252') may be ascended without difficulty from
the Rothgratli in V^ hr. (comp. p. 115).
Through the Kleinthal leads the usual route to the summit of the
Uri-Rothstock (6V2-7 hrs.; not easy; guide 12, or with descent to Engel-
berg 25 fr. and fee). A fatiguing path leads to the NeUnalp and (2 hrs.)
Musenalp (4885') ; then a toilsome ascent of precipices of slate-rock to the
top of the Kessel (8458'); lastly, up the Mittelgr&tli^ or round it towards
the £., across the Kleinthal Olacier and up the arete separating it from
the Bliimlisalp aiacier, to the summit of the "TJri-Kotliatock (9620*). An
easier, but longer route through the Grossthal, passing St. Jakob and the
Schlostfelsen ^ ascends by a steep and rough path to the (3 hrs.) Hang-
baum-Alp (5659'), grandly situated (fine cascades), where the night is spent
(hay-beds) ; thence over pastures., loose stones, and the BWmlisalp.fim to the
ridge between the Grossthal and Kleinthal ; and lastly up the arete towards
the W. to the summit (3-4 hrs. from Hangbaum). The mountain-group which
culminates in the Uri-Rothstock and the Brunnistock (9683'), like the Titlis,
is almost perpendicular on the £. and S.E. sides (towards the Gitschenthal
and Surenen), and is composed of gigantic and fantastically contorted lime-
stone rocks. The view from the summit is exceedingly grand : to the S. the
chain of the Alps, with the Sentis at their E. extremity ; at our feet, 8(XX)'
below, the Lake of Lucerne; to the N.E. and N. the Rigi, Pilatiis, and the
Entlebuch Mts., the lower hills of N. Switzerland, and the plains of 8. Ger-
many. — The descent (an easy and attractive glacier expedition) may be
made by the Bliimlisalp Glacier, the Schlossstock-Lileke^ and the Rothstock-
Lilcke to* the (3 hrs.) Plemkenalp Club-hut, and to (2 hrs.) Engelberg (p. 114).
Piaelen, Ital. Fiora (*Kreuz, R., L., & A. 3, B. IV4 fr- ; *TeU,
R. 2, B. 1 fr. ; Adler,- all near the quay; Stem. — Rail. Restau-
rant; lake-baths on the Axenstrasse, 72 M. off), is the port of Uri,
Tid a station (close to the pier) on the St. Gotthard Railway (p. 97).
BIGI. 26. SouU, 81
Beyond the chinch is the small chateau of Rudenz which once he-
longed to the Attinghansen family. The Beuas, which falls into the
lake hetween Fliielen and Seedorf, has heen 'canalized' here to
prevent inundations Q/2 hr.'s walk, or Y4 hr. hy boat to its influx).
26. The Eigi.
The Xonntain Bailways which aaeend the Bigi from Yitznaa and from
Arth are now used by the vast majority of travellers who visit this
justly famous and most admirable point or view. The jonmey is farther
facilitated by the numerous trains and steamboats wbich connect Arth
and Vitznau with places both near and distant, so that a visit to the
Rigi and hack may now be accomplished easily from Lucerne or Zurich
in one day. The ascent from VitznaUf which is more convenient for many
travellers, affords beautiful views all the way, while that from Arth offers
the advantage that the view bursts upon the spectator far more strikingly
aa he approaches the top.
Both lines are constructed on the rack-and-plnion system. The gauge
is of the usual width. Between the rails runs the toothed rail, which
consists of two rails placed side by side and connected with cross-bars at
regular intervals. Into the spaces thus formed works a cog-wheel under
the locomotive, which is always placed below the passenger-car. The
maximum gradient of the Vitznau line is 1:4, and of the Arth line 1 : 6.
Each train on the Vitznau line consists of one carriage only, with 54
seats , not divided into classes, and , on the Arth line , of two carriages
holding 40 persons each. The average speed is 4-6 M. per hour. — The
Scheidegg Railway (p. 87) is a line of the ordinary kind, but the loco-
motives are specially adapted for mounting gradients.
The Footpaths to the top of the Rigi are now Tery little used , but
the Descent to Weggis on foot (2-2Vs hrs. \ see p. 84) is recommended.
Hotels. On the Eulm, *Sghksibbb's Bioi-Kulu Hotels (three houses ;
the two higher and older being now d^pendances of the lower ^ Restau-
rant on the ground-floor of the latter) ^ R., L., & A. 6-7, D. 5 fr. — On
the Bigi-Staffel , where all the routes converge, Vt br. below the Kulm,
*H6t.-Pen8. Rigi-Staffkl, R., L., & A. from aVsi D« SV** pens. 8V2 fr.,
^apted for a stay of some time; ^Hotel SxAFFEL-KuLii and Hotel Rigi-
BAHN, both immediately above the station, moderate. — The '*Rdrhads
Higi-Kaltbad (p. 82), V2 l^r. below the Staffel, to the W., is a large, first-
class establishment, pens, from 9fr.; (hot and cold baths; Eng. Gh. Serv.);
Bellevde, below stat. Kaltbad, pens, from 7, D. 31/2 fr.,, well spoken of.
■- *H6tel Rigi-Fibst, on the Scheidegg railway (p. 87), V* br. from the
Kaltbad, pleasant for some stay, pens, from lOth July to 10th Sept. 11-
15 fr., earlier or later in the season 9-12 fr. — *Schwert and *8onne, by
the Kldaierlt (p. 83), R. & A. 21/2-3, D. 3, pens. 5-6 fr. — Pens. Ried-
BODEN between the Klosterli and the Staffel. 4 fr. — *HdT.-PKN8. Rigi-
Fblsenthob (p. 84), 10 min. from stat. RomxH-FeUenthor (p. 82), pens.
6-7 fr. — Hotel Rigi-Untebstetten, near stat. Unterstetten (p. 87), plain.
— *'KnBHAU8 Rigi-Scheidegg (p. 87; proprietor. Dr. Stierlin)^ R. 3-5, D. 4,
pens, in July and Augast 9-14, in Jane and Sept. 8-11 fr. (Eng. Ch. Serv.).
Tbe ♦*Bigi (5906', or 4472' above the Lake of Lucerne; origin-
ally *die Rigi*, i.e. tbe strata), a gronp of mountains about 25 M. In
circumference, lying between the lakes of Lucerne, Zug, and Lowerz,
is chiefly composed of conglomerate (p. 96), while the N. and W.
Bides belong to the meiocene formation. The.N. side is precipitous,
bntthe S. side consists of broad terraces and gentle slopes, covered
^th fresh green pastures which support upwards of 4000 head of
cattle, and planted towards the base with flg, chestnut, and almond
Babdeksb, Switzerland. 12th Edition. 6
i
82 RouU 26. RIGI. Kaltbad,
trees. 0-wing to its isolated situation, the Rigi commands a most eX"
tensive view, 300 M. in circumference, and unsurpassed for beauty
in Switzerland. The mountain was known to a few travellers
during the latter part of the 18th cent., but it was not till after the
peace of 1815 that It became a resort of tourists. In 1816 a very
modest inn was erected on the Kulm by voluntary subscription, and
in 1848 it was superseded by the oldest of the three houses on the
summit. Since then the number of inns has been steadily increas-
ing, and the Rigi is now one of the most popular of Swiss resorts.
From Vitznau to thb Rioi-Kulm. — iVj M. Mountain Bailwat
in 1 hr. 20 min. , fare 7 fr. (to Kaltbad 41/2 , Staffel 6 fr.) ; descent also
1 hr. 20 min., fare 3V2 fr. ; 10 lbs. of luggage free, overweight being
charged for. First-class return tickets from Lucerne to the Bigi via Vitz-
nau 131/2 fr. i Sunday tickets 7 fr. \ season-tickets SOP/o less.
VitznaUy see p. 75. The station is close to the quay. The
train (views to the left) ascends gradually through the village (1 :
15), and afterwards more rapidly (1 : 4), skirting the precipitous
slopes of the Do$8en, A *yiew of the lake is soon disclosed, becom-
ing grander as we ascend. Opposite us first appears the dark Bur-
genstock, then the Stanserhorn, Pilatus, and Lucerne. Farther up,
the Alps of Uri, Engelberg, and Bern come in sight above the lower
mountains. The train (20 min. after starting) penetrates a tunnel
82 yds. long, crosses the Schnurtohel, a ravine 75' deep, by a bridge
borne by two iron pillars, and soon reaches the watering and passing
station of Freibergen (3333'). Stat. Bomiti-Felsenthor (3890'; comp.
p. 84) and (54 min. from Vitznau) —
23/4M. Kaltbad (4700') ; to the left is the large Kurham (p. 81),
with its covered promenade, a health-resort on a plateau sheltered
from the N. and E. winds.
A path leads through a narrow opening in the rock, to the left of the
hotel, to St. HCchaers Chapel, the walls of which are hung with num-
erous votive tablets. One of these on the left side records that two pious
sisters sought refuge here from the persecutions of a governor of the dis-
trict in the time of King Albert, and built the chapel. The spring
(42° Fahr.) which bubbles forth from the rock adjoining the chapel was
formerly called the 'Schwesternborn"' in memory of the two sisters.
A path among the blocks of conglomerate near the chapel, and after-
wards traversing park -like grounds, leads to the (10 min.) "^Kansli (4773'),
a pavilion on a projecting rock, commanding an admirable view of the
snow-mountains, and of the plain towards the K. with its numerous lakes,
similar to that from the Staffel, but with a more picturesque foreground.
— A path leads hence to the Staffel in the same time as from the Kalt-
bad (w min.), ascending to the right as far as the point where the S. part
of the Lake of Lucerne becomes visible, and following the crest of the
mountain until it joins the path from the Kaltbad, about halfway up.
Visitors to the Kanzli therefore need not return to the Kaltbad.
Railway from the Kaltbad to the Seheidegffy see p. 87.
In 5 min. more the train reaches stat. Staff dhohe ; then ascends
to the left, round iheRigi-Rothstock (see below), in 9 min. to (4M.)
Sigi-Btaffel (5262'), the junction of the Arth line (see p. 83).
The -^Bagi-Bothstock (5456'), 12 min. to the S.W., affords a very pictur-
<)8que survey of the central part of the Lake of Lucerne, which is not vis-
''le from the Kulm. A clear view is often enjoyed from this point while
Klotttrli. Riei. 26. RouU, 83
the Kulm is enveloped in dense fog. The sunset is said to be sometimes
seen in greater perfection from the Bothstock than from the Knlm, but
^he sunrise should certainly be witnessed ftrom the latter.
The railway (here parallel with the Arth line) now ascends steeply
to the Kulm (in 7 min. ; a walk of 72-^4 ^O? skirting the precipi-
ces on the N. side of the hill. 41/2 M. Bigi-Kulm (5741'), see p. 84.
From Abth to thb Rioi-Kulm. 7M. Mountain Railway in 11/2 hr.,
fare 8fr. 30 (to the Elosterli 5 fr. 50, Staffel 7fr. 40 c.; from Arth-Ooldau, on
the St. Ootthard Railway, to the Kulm in lV4hr.,fare8fr.); descent iniVshr.,
fare 4 fr. 90 c. ; only 10 lbs. of luggage free. Season tickets SO'/o less.
Arth (Rail. Restaurant), see p. 91. As far as Goldau the line
is of the ordinary kind. The train ascends gradually to Oher-Arth,
passes through the Muhlefluh Tunnel and under the St. Gotthard
Railway, and reaches (IV2 M.) Arth-Ooldan (1683'; Restaur. ')y a
station on the St. Gotthard line (p. 96), where the toothed-wheel
system begins, and where we change our direction. (Seats should
if possible be secured at Arth on the left side, that farthest from
the waiting-room.) The Rigi line traverses part of the scene of the
Goldau landslip (p. 96), crosses the Schwyz road, and describes a
wide curve to the W. ; then, ascending more rapidly, it skirts the
slope at the foot of the Scheidegg and reaches (23/4 M.) Stat. KrdhtL
(2507'). Farther on, ascending 1' in 5', we skirt the precipitous
Krabelwand , where the construction of the line presented much
difficulty, and obtain a fine view of the valley and lake of Lowerz,
with the island of Schwanau, the Mythen near Schwyz, the Ross-
berg and scene of the great landslip, and the Lake of Zug. Beyond
the Bothfluh Tunnel we are carried through a picturesque wooded
valley, and across the Rothfluhbach, to the passing-station FrutUi
(3780'). Still ascending rapidly, the train traverses the Pfedem-
wcUdy crosses the Dossenhach and, beyond the Pfedemwald Tunnel j
the Schildbachj and reaches (5 M.; IV4 hr. from Arth) —
Stat. Kldsterli (4262'), lying in a basin enclosed by the Rigi-
Knlm, the Rothstock, and the First. The 'Klosterli' is a small Ca-
pachin monastery and hospice, with the pilgrimage-chapel of Maria
zum Schnee^ founded in 1689 and rebuilt in 1712, and the inns al-
ready mentioned (p. 81). The chapel is much visited by pilgrims,
especially on 5th Aug. and 6th Sept. ; and on Sundays there is mass
with a sermon for the herdsmen of the mountain. This spot has no
view, but is sheltered, and the air is often quite clear while the
Kulm, Staffel, and Scheidegg are shrouded in mist. Walk from the
Kldsterli to the Rigi-First 18 min. , Unterstetten 1/2 ^r- , to the
Kulm 11/4 hr., to the Staffel 40 min., to the Rothstock or the Schild
3/4, Dossen 1, Scheidegg I3/4 hr.
At (6V4M.) Stat. Sigi-Staffel (p. 82) a. strikingly beautiful
view is suddenly disclosed towards the W. and N. (comp. p. 81).
From this point to the (7 M.) Rigi^Kulm, see above.
Bridle Paths to the Rigi (comp. p. 81). Fbom Abth (1367'; p. 91),
31/2 hrs. to the top j a good path, which cannot be mistaken. By the chapel
6*
84 Route 26. RIGI. ' Kulm.
of St. George, near the last house, It turns to the left, and reaches the foot
of the mountain in 12 min. ; 12 min., a waterfall, precipitated over blocks
of conglomerate, but often dry in summer ; 8 min., a meadow ^ 4 min., an
expanse of fem^ 12 min., the Easgatterli, a store-house for cheese (avoid
path to the right); 20 min., waterfall; 4 min., Unteres Ddchli (see below),
where the path unites with the bridle-path from Goldau.
Fbom Goldau (p. 96) 3*/4 hrs., an excellent bridle-path, the best of
the Rigi routes, and not to be mistaken. To the W. of the railway-station
we cross the Aa, and proceed to the left of the brook through meadows,
pine-wood, and rocky debris, ascending by steps at places. To the left the
precipitous slopes of the Rothjluh (52d3'). 1 br. TTnterea DAehli (3084';
/fin), wher6 the path comes up on the right from Arth; good view of
the valley of Goldau, the Lake of Lowerz, and the My then of Schwyz.
By the cross adjoining the tavern begin the thirteen stations or oratories
which lead to the chapel of Our Lady of the Snow. At (20 min.) the
Obere Ddchli (refreshm.), with its fresh spring, the wood is quitted; on
the opposite side of the valley runs the railway. This point is about half-
way to the top ; the second half, however (I*/* hr.), is easier. 10 min.
Malehtts-Capelle, the 8th station; then (Vs hr.) Kldaterli (see above); thence
to the Rigi- Staff el (p. 83> 40 min., to the Fir it 20 min. (p. 87).
Fboh Kdssnacht (p. 91) a bridle-path (S'/i hrs.). The path diverges
to the right by a small shrine at the N. end of the village, skirting the
brook, which it crosses near a large new house ; i/s hr., ruins of a burned
house; at the finger-post 'auf die Bigi' we turn to the left; 20 min., Ross-
weid, where the rock bears a cross to the memory of a man killed by
lightning in 17^ (view over the 1^. part of the Lake of Zug); then through
wood (for 20 min.) and a fern-clad tract (view of the Lakes of Sempach
to the left, and Baldegg to the right). (1/4 hr.) Uniere Seeboden-Alp (3872';
Kurhaus , rustic and dear), on which , at the Heiligkreuz^ our path unites
with those from Immensee and TelFs Chapel ; 18 min., Obere Sieboden-Alp.
Then a steep zigzag ascent of IV4 hr. to the Rigi-Siaffel (p. 83).
Fbok Imuembks (p. SO) a bridle-path (3V4 hrs.). After Vs ^' ^^ reach
the Kussnacht and Arth road at the inn *'Zur Eiche'' (p. 88); fifty paces to
the left, by the inn *ZMr Ilge''^ the Rigi path ascends to the right to the
(l*/4 hr.) Untere Seeboden-Alp (sec above). Or we may follow the Kussnacht
road for i/s ^* more to TelVi Ghapel (p. 91), and ascend thence to the left
by a path which joins the other on the ('A br.) Lang eneck- Alp.
Fbom Gbeppen (p. 91), on the E. bank of the Kussnacht arm of the
Like of Lucerne, another good bridle-path leads to the Kulm in 3Vs hrs.
Fbom Weggis (p. 75) a bridle-path (374 hrs.), which cannot be missed
(finger-post 5 min. from the landing-place), winding at first through pro-
ductive orchards, the fruit of which is frequently offered for sale. It crosses
the track of a mud-stream which descended from the mountain in 1796,
taking a fortnight to reach the lake. (IV4 hr.) Heiligkreuz-Gapelle \ (Vs hr.)
the Hochstein or Felsenthory sometimes called the Kdsbissen (*H6t. Felsen-
Thor, p. 81), an arch formed of two huge masses of conglomerate, on
which rests a third block. (Stat. Ramiti^ a little higher up, see p. 82.) The
path runs parallel to the railway part of the way. (3/4 hr.) Kaltbady see
p. 82. This route commands beautiful views of the lake and mountains,
and is especially recommended for the descent (comp. p. 81).
The Rigi-Knlm(5906'), a grassy peak, the highest and northern-
most point of the Rigi, descends abruptly on the N. to the Lake of
Zug, while on the S.W. side it joins that part of the mountain which
encloses the basin of the Klosterll and extends to the Scheidegg.
At the top rises a wooden belvedere. The hotels (p. 81) stand about
130 paces below the summit, sheltered from the W. and N. winds.
The Kulm almost always presents a busy scene, but is most
thronged in the morning and evening. The sunset is always tiie
chief attraction. A performer on the Alpine horn blows the 'retreat'
of the orb of day, after which the belvedere is soon deserted.
63
3 . , Bo«nli*J691
«»<
Gr.Fiescherh?
<flM Truit«r<
Mittelh" 3Mf
3708
J>m«M
Slbcr4
Bra
4
•'^urttemberg
^.e G all e n ^ . -.^
Hornli Hohe Rhonen
E^eri See
Kuhn. BIOI. 26. Route. 85
Half-an-honr before sunrise , the Alpine horn sounds the re-
yeille. All is again noise and bustle \ the crowded hotels are for
the nonce without a tenant; and the summit Is thronged with an
eager multitude , enveloped in all manner of cloaks and mantles.
Unfortunately a perfectly cloudless sunrise is a rare event.
A faint streak in the E., which gradually pales the brightness
of the stars, heralds the birth of day. This insensibly changes to
a band of gold on the horizon ; each lofty peak becomes tinged with
a roseate blush ; the shadows between the Rigi and the horizon gra-
dually melt away ; forests, lakes, hills, towns, and villages reveal
themselves; all is at first grey and cold, until at length the sun
bursts from behind the mountains in all its majesty, flooding the
superb landscape with light and warmth.
**View. The first object which absorbs our attention is the stu-
pendous range of the snow-clad Alps, 120 M. in length (comp. the
Panorama). The chain begins in the far E. with the Sentis in Can-
ton Appenzell , over or near which the first rays of the rising sun
appear in summer. Nearer the Rigi rises the huge snowy crest of
the Gldmisch ; then the Todi , in front of which are the Clariderif
and to the right the double peak of the Scheerhom; next, the broad
WindgaUe , immediately opposite , and the sharp pyramid of the
Bristenstock , at the foot of which lies Amsteg on the St. Gotthard
road; then the Blackenstock and the Vri-Rothstock ^ side by side,
both so near that the ice of their glaciers can be distinguished ;
next, the serrated Spannorter, and more to the right the Titlis, the
highest of the Unterwalden range, easily distinguished by Its vast
mantle of snow. The eye next travels to the Bernese Alps, crown-
ing the landscape with their magnificent peaks clad with perpe-
tual snow. To the extreme left is the Finsteraarhom, the loftiest
of all (14,026'); adjacent to it the Schreckhomer ^ the three white
peaks of the Wetterhorn, the Monch, the Eiger with its perpendicu-
lar walls of dark rock on the N. side, and the Jungfrau. To the W.
tower the jagged peaks of the sombre Pilatus, forming the extreme
outpost of the Alps in this direction. — Towards the Nokth the
entire Lake ofZug is visible, with the roads leadings to Arth, and the
villages of Zug and Cham. To the left of the Lake of Zug, at the
foot of the Rigi, stands TelVs Chapel, midway between Immensee
and Kiissnacht, a little to the left of a white house ; then, separa-
ted from the Lake of Zug by a narrow strip of land, the Kiissnacht
arm of the Lake of Lucerne ; more to the W. Lucerne with its crown
of battlements and towers, at the head of its bay. Beyond Lucerne
is seen almost the entire canton of that name, with the Emme me-
andering through it like a silver thread ; the Reuss is also visible
at places. More distant are the Lake of Sempach^ the W. side of
which is skirted by the railway to Bale, and the lakes of Baldegg and
Hallwyl, Towards the West and Nobth-West the horizon is bound-
ed by the Jura Mta,, above which peep some of the crests of the
8^6 noute26. RIGI. Kuhn.
Yosgee. — To the Nobth, but to the left of the Lake of Zug, the
handsome buildings of the former Abbey of Muri are visible , be-
yond which rises the castle of Habsburg; in the distance the Black
forest with its highest peaks , the Feldberg (to the right) and the
BeLchen (to the left). Beyond the Lake of Zug is seen the crest of
the Albia with the Veiliberg, which nearly conceals the Lake of Zu-
rich; the long cantonal hospital and the cathedral in the town of
Zurich are, however, visible. In the extreme distance rise the ba-
saltic cones of Hohenkoiven and Hohenstoffeln (close together) and
the Hoheniwiel in Swabia. Towards the East, behind the N. slope
of the Rossberg, a glimpse is obtained of the Lake of Egeri, on the
S. bank of which was fought the famous battle of Morgarten (p. 94).
Beyond Arth, opposite the Kulm, is the Boasberg , the S. slope of
which was the scene of the disastrous Goldau landslip (p. 96).
Between the Rossberg and the E. ramifications of the Rigi lies the
Lake of Lowerz with its two little islands ; beyond it, the town of
Schwyz, at the foot of the bald heights of the Mythen, overtopped
by the imposing Gldmisch. To the right opens the Muotathalj ce-
lebrated in military annals. To the Sovth-East and South the
different heights of the Rigi form the foreground, viz. the Hochfluh
(below it the Bothfluh')^ Scheidegg^ JDossen, and Schildj at the foot
of which lies the Klosterli. To the left of the Schild part of the
Lake of Lucerne is seen near Beckenried , and to the right the bay
called the Lake of Buocha, with the BuochserHom above it ; a little
more to the right the Stamer Horn with Stans at its base; nearer,
the less lofty Biirgenstock and the Bigi-Bothstock, Beyond these,
to the left, is the Lake of Somen, embosomed in forest, to the
right, the Bay of Alpnach, connected with the Lake of Lucerne by
a narrow strait formed by the Lopperberg , a spur of Pilatus. —
Good panorama by Keller^ upon which that annexed is based.
For a quarter of an hour before and after sunrise the view is
clearest; at a later hour the mists rise and condense into clouds,
frequently concealing a great part of the landscape. To quote the
chamois-hunter in Schiller's Tell :
* Through the parting clouds only
The earth can be seen,
Far down ^neath the vapour
The meadows of green."
But the mists themselves possess a certain charm, surging in the
depths of the valleys, or veiling the Kulm, and struggling against
the powerful rays of the sun. The effects of light and shade,
varying so often in the course of the day, are also a source of
constant interest. In the early morning the Bernese Alps are seen
to the best advantage, and in the evening those to the E. of the
Bristenstock. One whole day at least should be devoted to the Rigi.
A visit may also be paid (on foot or by rail) to the Staffel (p. 83),
the Kaltbad (p. 82), the Klosterli (p. 83), or the Scheidegg (p. 87),
^nd the Rothstock (p. 82) may be ascended.
Seheidegg. RIQl. 26. Route. 87
As the temperature often varies 40-50° witMn. 24 hours,
overcoats and shawls should not be forgotten. During the prevalence
of theFohn, or S. wind, the Alps seem to draw nearer, their jagged
outlines become more definite, their tints warmer; and during a
W. wind the Jura Mts. present a similar appearance; but these
phenomena generally portend rain.
F&OM THE KaLTBAD TO THE RlGI-SCHEIDEOG. — 41/4 M. RAILWAY
hi 25 min. ; fare 2 fr. 50, there and back 3 fr. 60 c. ; only 10 lbs. of lug-
gage free.
Bigi-Kalthad (4700'), see p. 82. The raUway skirts the S.
slope of the Rothstock, being hewn in the rock the greater part
of the way, and ascends gradually to stat. Bigi-EirBt (4747';
^Hotel, see p. 81), which commands a beautiful view of the Lake
of Lucerne, the Uri and Unterwalden Mts., and the Bernese
Alps. The train now describes a wide curve round the N. slopes of
the /SfcAt(c2 (see below), affording a pleasant view, towards theE., of
the Mythen, the Glarnisch, and the Alpsof Appenzell. Beyond stat.
TJntersUtten (Hotel, see p. 81) we traverse the saddle of the hill
and cross a bridge 55 yds. long and 33' high , with a view to the
N. and S. We pass through the Weisseneck Tunnel ^ 55 yds. long,
cross the Dossentohel by a viaduct 84' high , and reach the ridge
which connects the Dossen with the Seheidegg, where a view
towards the S. is again disclosed.
Stat. Bigi-Scheidegg (5260'; *Kurhau8, p. 81). The view hence
(summit, 5407') is less extensive than that from the Kulm, but it
also embraces the principal mountains, and some points not visible
from the Kulm (see Panorama at the hotel). The plateau of the
Seheidegg, about 1 M. in length, affords a pleasant promenade.
The Dossen (see below) is 8/4 hr. distant.
Paths to the Seheidegg. Fboh Gbbsad (p. 76) a bridle-path (3V4 hrs.,
descent 2 hrs.), steep at places. Beyond the village we cross the brook
and ascend by a paved path between orchards and farm-houses; 40 min.,
Brand; 1/2 b'*) a saw-mill, where we again cross the brook; 10 min.,
Uhter-Otehiednd (tavern); 10 min., Ober-Oschtedndy where we join the path
from Lowerz (see below). To the right, the precipitous slopes of the Hoch-
fliih (5554') ; below lies the little chapel of 8t. Joseph. On the sharp crest
of the hill, 20 min. below the Seheidegg, a view is suddenly disclosed of
the Bossberg and the lakes of Lowerz and Zug.
Fbom Lowebz (p. 96) a bridle-path (3 hrs.), ascending towards the S. to
the depression between the Hochfitth and the TtDSriberg^ the E. spur of the
Seheidegg, and uniting with the Gersau route at Ober-Oschtednd (see above).
Fboh the Elostebli (p. 83) a bridle-path (l*/4 hr.), ascending from
the Schwert Inn and passing the Dossen (o515') , the ascent of which adds
1/4 hr. to the walk. (We ascend the saddle to the right between the Schild
and Dossen, Vs br. from the Klosterli, pass the slope above Vitznau, with
a fine view, and go straight thence to. the top of the Dossen, which com-
mands the whole of the Lake of Lucerne and Canton Unterwalden.)
Fbom the Staffbl (p. 88) a good path (2 hrs.), hardly to be mistaken
(railway, see above). At the Staffel Hotel it divei^es to the left from the
Rothstock path and skirts the brow of the mountain. (To the right, views
of the Lake of Lucerne and the Alps ; in the valley to the left lies the
Kldsterli.) After 1/2 hr., on the First (see above), it crossei the path from
I
/
.•^'
Vw
88 JBoute 27. PILATUS.
the Klosterli to the Kaltbad, rounds the slopes of the Sddld 0O&&') to
the saddle between the Schild and Dossen, skirts the latter, and descends
to the (1^4 hr.) chalets In the Elend^ between the Dossen and Scheidegg,
where it joins the path from the Klosterli. To the Kurhaus */< b'* more.
27. Pilatus.
Gotnp. Map^ p. 74.
Boutes. Pilatus is ascended from Hergistoyl^ from Alpnach-QesUxd^ ot
from Alpnach. Steamboat 3 times daily from Lucerne to Hergiswyl in 35 min.
(1 fr. 40, 80 c), to Alpnach-Gestad in IV4 hr. (2 fr. 40, 1 fr. 20 c.). Description
of the route, see p. 117. Two-horse carr. from the railway-station at Lu-
cerne to Hergiswyl in 1 hr., 1-2 pers. 41/2, 3-4 pers. 6fr.
Fkoh Hbbgiswtl (p. Il7) bridle-path in 31/2 hrs. (down in 2>/s hrs.) to
the Hotel Elimsenhorn (horse 12 fr. ; back on the same day 8 fr., next day
12 fr.) , whence the Klimsenhom may be ascended on foot in 10 min., the _
Tomlishom in 1 hr. , and the Esel in 60 min. — Fbou Alpkach-Obstad /T^'
(p. 117) to the Hdtel Bellevue bridle>path in 472-5 hrs. (down in 3 hrs.);
thence to the top of the E:^el, 8 min. — Fbom Ai^nach (p. 117) to the
Hotel Bellevue bridle-path in 4V2-5 hrs. (down in 3 hrs.). — Porter' from
Hergiswyl to the Esel 3, Horse (without luggage) 12 fr. \ ChaUeh-potteun
20 fr. \ horse from Alpnach-Gestad to the Bellevue 15 fr. {Guides unneces-
sary.) — Bailwat from Alpnach-Gestad to the Hdtel Bellevue, under con-
struction, see p. 89.
Hotelt. Klimsknhokk, 10 min. from the top of the peak of that name.
B., L., die A. 41/2, !>• 3fr. ; *Bbllbvub, on the ridge between the Oberha^pt ana
the Esel, with an uninterrupted view towards the E., expensive, B., L., &, A,
51/2, B. 2 fr.
^Pilatus, the lofty mountain to the S.W. of Lucerne, rises boldly
in a rugged and imposing mass, almost isolated from the surround-
ing heights. The W. and N. portions belong to the canton of Lu-
cerne, the E. and S. to Unterwalden. . The lower slopes are clothed
with beautiful pastures and forests, while the upper part consists
of wild and serrated cliffs, from which its ancient name Fractm
Mons (broken mountain) is derived. The names 'Fracmont', 'Frak-
mund', have in later times been occasionally applied to it, but the
name Pilatus {mom pileatusj the capped mountain) came into gene-
ral use about the close of last century.
The names of the diflferent peaks from W. to E. are the MittaggUpJUt
or Onep/stein (6300'), the Rothe-ToUen (6893'), the Widderfeld (6824', the
wildest), the Tomlishom (6998', the highest), the Oemsmattli (6732'); to
the S. the Matthorn (6693 *); to the N. the Klimsenhom (6266', which, seen
from Lucerne, is the farthest W.); in the centre the Oberhaupt^ then th©
Esel (6965', t^& most frequently ascended), and lastly the SteigU-Egg (6486').
Pilatus, form rly one of the best-known of the Swiss mountains, was for
many years 8\xpplanted by the Bigi, but has of late regained its ancient
reputation and become one of the most popular points of view in Switzerland.
Ascent. Fbom Hergiswyl (*Rossli), a village at the £. base of
Pilatus (p. 117), an easy bridle-path ascends in 3^/2 his. to the
H6tel Klimsenhom. In front of the church we take the broader
path to the left, and after 3 min. turn to the right, traversing
orchards and meadows, and afterwards wood. At(iy4hr.) the H6t.-
Pens. Brunnij a small sulphur-bath, there is a terrace affording a
fine view; 6 min., a bench shaded by pines; ^/i ^'- > * second
bench. After 12 min. the path leads through a gate to the
Whs Fkasdtberg
■•i
PILATUS. 27, Route. 89
Oaehwandalpj where a thiTd bench (6 min.) commands a fine view.
Neai a chalet (20 min.) we pass through another gate and ascend
in steep zigzags to the left^ at first through beautiful pine-wood,
and then across slopes of grass and debris, toflVi^'O the Hdtel
Klimaenhomj situated on the saddle (5935', 29' higher than the
Rigi-Kulm) connecting the Oberhaupt with the Klimsenhorn.
From the hotel we may ascend the (10 min.) ^KlimBeahom
(6266'), which affords an extensive and picturesque prospect to the
E., N., and W., from the Uri Mts. to the Lake of Neuchatel. The
view to the S. is hidden by the loftier peaks of Pilatus.
We may also ascend the Tomlishorn (6998') from the hotel in 1 br.,
but the path is bad. It at first descends to the rock-strewn Kastelenalp
on the W. slope, and then mounts towards the S.W., where it is hewn in
the rock at places. Lastly it ascends on the brink of a gully by means of
dilapidated steps to the ridge connecting the Tomlishorn with the Gems-
mSttli (67320) and thence towards the W. to the summit. View similar
to that from the Esel.
From the H6tel Klimsenhorn a well-constructed zigzag path as-
cends the steep slope of the Oberhaupt, to the (40 min.) Krisilochj
an aperture in the rock resembling a chimney, 20' high, through
which 41 wooden steps ascend to the arete between the Oberhaupt
and the Esel. A *View of the Bernese Alps is suddenly disclosed
here. The path then leads in a few minutes to the Hdtel Bellevue
(6790'), and thence in 8 min. to the summit of the *Esel (6965').
The **ViBw from this point resembles that from the Rigl , but
surpasses it in grandeur, the Bernese Alps being nearer and more
conspicuous. Compare the panorama.
Fbom Alpnach-Gbstad (p. 117; railway under construction),
a bridle-path (4V2-5 hrs.) , the pleasantest of the routes. By the
chapel near the Rossli, 3 min. from the landing-place , it diverges
to the right, crossing pastures, at first ascending gradually , and
affording beautiful retrospects of the lake and the Unterwalden Mts.
Passing (Y2 hr.) a bench, we enter a wood, cross abridge, and
ascend a ravine (with small waterfalls) in zigzags to the (2 hrs.)
Aemsigenegg (4431'); then ascend the Aemsigenalp (refreshm.) and
Maitaip to the (IY2 lir.) ridge (6132') between the Esel and Matt-
horn, where our path joins that from Alpnach. To the Hdtel Belle-
vue (see above), Y2 ^^' more.
Fbom Alpnach (p. 117). The bridle-path (41/2 ^rs. ; quite dis-
tinct), crosses the Kleint Schlierenbach, beyond the village, to Im
Orund, and ascends through pastures (fine waterfall in the ravine to
the right) and wood to the(2 hrs.) AlpLuthold8matt{S7^^'\ refreshm.).
It now leads to the E., past the chalets of Schwandi 6.nd Hinter-
Frakmiindy between the slopes of the Widderfeld and the Tomlis-
horn on the left and those of the Matthorn on the right, and lastly
ascends a stony slope in zigzags across detritus to the H6tel Bellevue.
The PiLAfrns Railway, now being constructed nnder the superinten-
dence of Col. Locher, and to be opened for passen^r traffic in June 1889,
starts from Alpnuch-Geitad between the Pilatus and Adler hotels (1446'),
and aacends to the N., through fine beech woods, to the Aemsigenalp
90 BouU 28. LALE OF ZUG.
(w&ere the trainB pais each other) and the Mattalp ^140. Thence it is
carried up the rocky peak of the Esel in a series of sharp corves, travers*
ing four short tunnels and several galleries. The railway is 2*/^ M. long,
and the substructure for the entire distance consists of massive blocks
and slabs of granite. The average gradient is 40:100, the steepest being
48:100, and the most gradual 18:100. The trains are pn pelled by means
of two pairs of toothed wheels (one pair at each end of the train), working
horizontally into a rail, toothed on buth sides, in the centre of the track.
The Rigi has a marked advantage over Pilatus in frequently
enjoying clear and snnny weather while its rival is shrouded in
clouds or fog. Being an advanced outpost of the Alpine chain,
Pilatus attracts every storm that approaches from the N. or W., and
is the popular barometer of the district. An old saying runs thus : —
^If Pilatus wears his cap, serene will be the day;
If his collar he puts on, you may venture on the way;
But if his sword he wields, at home you''d better stay'/
If the summit is free from clouds and fog in the morning, the
weather cannot be depended on ; but if shrouded in fog till midday,
a fine afternoon may be expected.
Many legends are connected with Pilatus, particularly with its caverns
(the Mondloeh below the Tomlisalp , and the Dominikhdhlt above the
Briindlisalp) and its Lake (to the S.W. of the Kllmsenhom). One of the
oldest [is , that when Pontius Pilate was banished from Galilee , he fled
hither, and in the bitterness of his remorse, drowned himself in this lake.
28. From Zug and Lnoeme to Arth.
Comp. Ifaps^ pp. 74, 80.
i. From Zng to Arth. Lake of Zng.
Steamboat (in connection with the Zurich and Lucerne and the Rigi
railways) in 50 min. (Quick train from Zug by Bothkreuz to Arth-Goldau
in 48 min., ordinary in 1 hr. 40 min.)
The Lake of Zug (1368Q, 83/^ M. long, 21/2 M. wide, and 660'
deep, Is very picturesq^ue. Its richly wooded banks rise gently to
a moderate height, while to the S., above its azure waters, towers
the Rigi, visible from base to summit. On the flat N. bank of the
lake many remains of lake-dwellings have been discovered.
Zug^ see p. 69. Soon after the steamer has left the pier, Pilatus
appears to the S.W., and then the Bernese Alps and the Stanser-
horn to the left. On a promontory on the W. bank is the handsome
new chateau of Buonoi ; on the E. bank lie the village of Ohef\Dyl
and the houses of Otterswyl and EyeUnegg. Looking back, we ob-
serve the church-tower of Cham (p. 69), rising above the plain.
On the W. bank, farther on, the wooded promontory of Kiemen pro-
jects far into the lake. To the left of the Rigi-Scheidegg Ure the
Frohnalpstock and the Ross-Stocke. The steamer touches at Waleh'-
wyl'Ilomli and the village of Walchwyl (*Stern) on the E. bank,
and then crosses to Immensee (*H6t, Rigi), charmingly situated at
the foot of the Rigi. (Rail, stat., see p. 96; omnibus to Kussnacht
in 1/2 ^^' ; footpath to the Rigi, p. 84).
On the £. bank lies 8t, Adrian, at the foot of the Bosaberg (see
KUSSNACHT. 28, Route. 91
p. 96), wMch on this side is clothed with wood and pasture. As
Arth is approached, one of the My then of Schwyz (p. 97) peeps from
behind the Rossbeig.
Arth (^Adler, with garden on the lake; *H6t. Rigi; Schlus-
ad) lies at the S. end of the lake, between the Rigi and the Ross-
berg , but not exposed to the landslips of the latter, the strata of
which dip in another direction. The Churchy erected in 1677, con-
tains a silver cup and vase captured at Grandson in 1476.
Arth-Rigi Railway, see p. S3. Footpath up the Rigi, see p. 83. —
From Arth to KUssnaeht and Lucerne, see p. 96.
ii. From Laceme to KuBBnacht and Arth.
Steamboat from Lucerne to (8 M.) Kussnaclit, 1 hr. ^ Post-Omnibus
from Kiissnaclit to (21E.) stat. Immensee 3 times daily in 25 min., Bailwat
from Immensee to (5]f.) Artb-Goldan in 19 min. (From Lucerne by Both-
kreuz to Arth-Goldan quick train in 55 min., ordinary in IV4 hr. \ see
pp. 95, 96.)
Departure from Lucerne, see p. 74. The steamer touches at
Pen$.8eeburg(jp.7i')j rounds the promontory oi Meggenhom(y.7b\
and enters the bay of Kussnacht. To the left, near stat. Forder-
Meggen, rises the picturesque chateau of Neu^Habsburg y behind
which peeps the ancient tower of the castle of that name, onoe a
frequent resort of the £mp. Rudolph when Count of Hapsburg,
and destroyed by the Lucerners in 1352. The incident which in-
duced Rudolph to present his horse to the priest is said to have
occurred here (see Schiller's ballad, 'The Count of Hapsburg').
Stat. Hinter-Meggen (^Kurliam ^ Pens. Oottlieben, suitable for
some stay, prettily situated Y4M. from the lake, 5-9 fr.). The steamer
now crosses to Oreppen, skirts the beautiful wooded slopes of the
Rigi, and soon reaches —
8 M. Kussnacht (1433'; pop. 3203; *mt. du Lac, R. 2-3, D. 3,
pens. 5-6 fr. ; *Sckwaner Adler; Rd38li; Tell: *Pen8. Sigwarf), a
village prettily situated at the N. end of this bay of the lake. Om-
nibus to Immensee from the landing-place ; one-horse carr. 3 fr.
— Ascent of the Rigiy see p. 84.
The road to (2 M.) Immensee ascends a little. To the right, on
a wooded hill, are the scanty remains of Gesslera Castle , which is
said to have been destroyed in 1308. We then pass through the
'Hohle Oasse' or 'hollow lane' ; see Schiller's Tell), now half filled
up, .but still deserving the name at one point where it is shaded by
lofty beeches. At the upper end of it, I72 ^* ^^oii^ Kiissnacht, to
the left, is Toll's Chapel (1584'), rebuilt in 1834, marking the spot
where the tyrant Gessler is said to have been shot by Tell. Over
the door is a painting oX the event, with an inscription.
By the (Y2 ^O ii^n *Zur EieKey the road divides. A few paces
to the right is stat. Immensee- Kuasnacht (p. 96). The road to the
left descends to (Y4M.) the village of Immensee (p. 84).
92
29. From Wadenswyl to Einsiedeln, Schwyz, and
Bmnnen.
Comp. HapSy pp. 36^ 74.
30 H. Railway to (IOV2 M.) Einsiedeln in 1 hr. (fare 2 fr. or 1 fr.
50 c). Diligence from Einsiedeln to (ISVa M.) Brunnen twice daily in
31/4 bra. (to Schwys in 2^/4 hrs.); fare 4 fr. 76 c. By taking the train to
Biberbruck and the diligence thence to Brunnen, the traveller may reach the
latter from Wadenswyl without passing tinsiedeln. — One-horse carr. from
Einsiedeln to Brunnen in 3'/4 hrs. , 17 fr. j two-horse carr. from Biber-
bruck to Brunnen 25 fr.
Wadenswyl, see p. 39'. The line (gradient 1:50) gradually
ascends the fertile slopes on the S. bank of the Lake of Zurich, oom-
manding beautiful views of the lake and the Islands of Lutzelau and
Ufnau (p. 39). On a hill to the right is the ruin of Alt' Wadenswyl.
2M. Burghalden; 3^/4 M. Samstagem (IY4M. to the S.W. of which
is the whey-cure estab. of Hutien, p. 39), Near (5Y2M.) Schiu-
dellegi(2483' ; *Freihof; Hirsch)^ we cross the brawling Sihl. Now
that we have quitted the fertile bank of the lake, the scenery sud-
denly assumes a more Alpine character. The line rounds the £.
slopes of the Hohe Bhonen (4042'), and approaches the Alpbaehy
which falls into the Sihl here. Towards the S. appear the Mythen
(p. 97). Beyond (71/2 M.) Biberbrnek (2729'; Post), where the
Biber falls into the Aiphach, the Glarus Mts., bounded on the left
by the pyramidal Kdpfenstock(6240'), form the background.
Pleasant excursion from Biberbruck (by road) to the (2i/t H.) top of
the Oottschallenberg (3743'; *Inn\ the W. prolongation of the Eohe
Jihonen (see below), commanding a fine view of the Alps. The descent
may be made to (2V2 M.) Egeri (p. 94), to (IV2 hr.) Riehterswpl (p. 39) , or
by Jfenzingen to (6 M.) Zug (p. 69).
The train follows the narrow Alpthal (several cuttings and em-*
bankments, and a short tunnel), and soon reaches the basin of
(10^2 ^0 Einsiedeln (see below).
Fbok B.APFBBSWTL TO EiNBiBDELN. By the l&ke-viaduct to Burden
and P/dffikon (rail, in 10 min.), see p. 39. A narrow road command-
ing fine views of the lake ascends in windings, past the Pent. Lugeie, to
the (5 M.) pass of the Etsel (3254'; */»»), with the Chapel 0/ 8t. Meinrad,
The Hoch-Etzel (3615'; steep ascent of Vz br. from the inn) is wooded, and
commands no view, but the '^SchSnboden (3523'), V4 hr. to the E., affords
a splendid view of the lake, the Limmatthal as far as Baden , the Alps of
Appenzell and Glarus, the Sihlthal and Alpthal, with Einsiedeln, the
Mythen of Schwyz, the Bossberg, and the Rigi ; to the W. risea the Hohe
Rhonen (4042'), locally called Dreilanderstein from the stone at the top
marking the boundaries of cantons Zurich, Zug, and Schwyz. Travellers
bound for Einsiedeln may from the Schonboden descend towards the S.W.
direct to Egg, visible below, cross the Sihl, and join the road from the
Etzel. — From the Etzel Inn the road descends to the (1 M.) Teu/elsbrilcke
(2202') over the Sihl. The famous Paracelsus (d. 1541 at Salzburg) is said
to have been bom or to have once lived here. Then 3^4 H. to Einsiedeln.
Kineiedeln (2890' ; pop . 8401 ; *Pfau, R. & A. 2V2, B. 1 , D. 3 fr. ;
*8onne', DreiKonige; *Adler; Sehwan'), ot Notre-Dame-des'Ermites
(Momuterium Eremitarum), in a green valley, watered by the Alpbach^
vies with Rome and Loreto in Italy, St. Jago de Compostella in
Spain, and Mariazell in Styria as one of the most famous pilgrim
EINSIEDELN. 29. BouU. 93
resorts in the world. Its foandation is attributed to OonntMeinrad
of Sulgen, who built a chapel here in honour of a wonder-working
image of the Virgin presented to him by the Abbess Hildegard of
Zurich. After the death of Melnrad, who was assassinated in 861,
a monastery of Benedictine Hermits (^Einsiedler') sprang up here.
In 1294 it was created an independent principality by Emp. Ru-
dolph of Hapsburg, and owing to the constantly increasing throng
of pilgrims which it attracted soon ried with St. Gallen as one of
the richest monasteries in Switzerland.
In the large open space between the houses (a great many of
which are inns for the entertainment of the pilgrims) and the con-
spicuous buildings of the monastery rises a black marble Fountain
with fourteen jets, surmounted by an image of the Virgin , from
which the pilgrims are wont to drink. Under the Arcades , which
form a semicircular approach to the church on the right and left,
as well as in the Platz itself, there are numerous stalls for the sale of
prayer-books, images of saints, rosaries, medals, crucifixes, and
other 'devotionar objects. So great is the demand for engravings,
religious works, and other souvenirs of the place, that at Benziger'a
Lihrary no fewer than 700 workmen are employed in printing and
stereotyping, engraving on wood and zinc, chromo-lithographing,
book-binding, etc. The pilgrims, who come chiefly from Switzer-
land, Bavaria, Swabia, Baden and Alsace, number about 150,000
annually. The greatest festival takes place on 14th Sept.
The extensive Ahhty Buildings, in the Italian style, which were
re-erected for the sixth or seventh time in 1704-19, are 148 yds.
long , 41 yds. of which are occupied by the Church and its two
slender towers. On the right and left of the entrance are Statues of
the Emperors Otho I. and Henry II., two benefactors of the Abbey.
The Intebior of the church is gaudily decorated with gilding, marble,
and pictures of little value. In the nave, isolated from the rest of the
building, stands the Ghapisl of this Vibgin, of black marble , the 'Sanc-
tum Sanctorum", with a grating, through which, illuminated by a solitary
lamp, a small Image of the Virgin and Child is visible, richly attired, and
decked with crowns of gold and precious stones. At the back of the
chapel is the inscription : '■Deiparae Virgini Casparus Comes in Altaembs
Oallara et Vadutz Perfecit Anno SaluHt hdcxxxii.'' In the chapel to the
right a Crucifix by J. Kraus ; in the choir an Assumption by the same
artist, skilfully restored by Deschwanden in 1858. The Tbbasdbt, once so
rich, was despoiled by the French in 17^. The Abbey contains a well-
arranged LiBBABT of 26,000 volumes, chiefly historical, a number of MSS.,
and a small natural history collection. The Fdbstensaal is hung with
good life-size portraits, including those of Pius IX., the emperors William I.,
Francis Joseph, and Napoleon III. The Pbivatb Chapel of the abbot is
adorned with paintings of ecclesiastical events. — Connected with the
Abbey are a Sehinabt and a Ltceum.
Zwlngll was pastor of Einsiedeln from 1515 to 1519 \ and the effect
of bis preaching was such, that in 1517, on the anniversary festival, the
monks left their cells, and the Abbey was for a time quite deserted.
The Herrenberg (3648'), a hill near the Abbey, commands a
beautifol view of the neighbourhood.
94 RouU 29. ROTHENTHURM.
Fbom Einsibdbln to Sohwyk and B&tmNBN. The high-road
leads towards the N.W. to —
3 M. Biberbraok (p. 92), and then turns to the S. to (I72 M.)
Altmatt (2989'), a poor hamlet of weavers on a large moor, to which
a cart-track leads direct from Einsiedeln in 1 hr. across the lofty
plain of Katzenstriek (3455'; Inn at the top).
71/2 M. Bothenthnrm (3040'; ♦Ocft«), where the long hack of
the Rigi and the hotels on the Eulm become Tisible, is named
after a red tower belonging to fortifications (Letze) once erected by
the Schwyzers to protect their N. W. boundary. In the vicinity,
on the E. slope of the Af oryarf en (see below), on 2nd May, 1798, the
Schwyzers under Reding defeated the French, who lost 2000 men.
The road traverses monotonous pastures, passing Biberegg (3110')
on the left, and then descends in numerous windings. In the gorge
far below flows the Steinen-Aa.
10 M. Battel (2729' ; Neue Krone^ on the road, Atte Krone, in
the village) lies above the new road.
Fkoh Sattbl to Untbb-Egebi, 51/2 M., diligence daily in 1 hr., passing
the pretty Egeri-See (2382'). On the Horgarten, the hill on the S.E. side
of the lake, on 16th liov. 1315, the Confederates won their first victory
over their Hapsburg oppressors commanded by Leopold of Austria. A
memorial chapel, containing a representation of the battle , was erected
at St. Jakob^ >/« ^- to the K. of Battel and 1 11. from the S.£. end of the
lake. A commemoration service is held here annually on the day of the
battle. At the W. end of the lake are the villages of (4 M.) Ober- and
(IV2 M.) TJnter-Egeri CPostj H6t. Menggeler)^ with a new Gothic church,
prettily situated at the mouth of the Lorze (lake baths). Ascent of the
Zuger Berg (p. 69) 2/4 hr. ; of the GoUschallenberg (p. 92) IV4 hr. The
*Rossberg (highest peak, Wildspitz, 5190'), an admirable point of view,
may be ascended through the Hwrithal and over the Rossbergalp in 2^2 hrs.
(see below). — From Ober-Egeri to Zug diligence twice daily in iV« hr.
Fbom Sattkl to Goldau, 51/2 M., diligence twice daily in */« hour.
The road leads at first high above the deep ravine of the Steinen-Aa,
passing the (3/4 M.) Ecce-Bomo Chapel (2408*), where the old road to
Schwyz by Steinen (p. 96) diverges to the left. It then skirts the Rotsberg
(p. 96), passes Steinenberg CBossli), whence the Wildspits (see above) is
easily ascended in 3 hrs., and leads across the scene of the Gk)ldau land-
slip to (4^4 M.) Stat. Arth-Ooldau (p. 96).
The *ScHLAGSTBAS8B, as the new road from Sattel to Schwyz is
called, crosses the Steinen- Aa and descends on the W. slope of the
Hcuiken (see below), affording beantifnl views of the fertile valley of
Steinen, the Lake of Lowerz with the Schwanau, the scene of the
Goldau landslip, and the Rigi. At (4 M.) Auf der Burg (*Inn)
Schwyz and the Mythen become visible. Thence to stat. Seewen
IV4M., to Schwyz 2 M.
16^2 ^- Schwyz, 1 M. from the Schwyz^Seewen station on the
St. Gotthardline (p. 96).
Fboh E1N8IEDELK TO ScHWTZ OVER THE Hackbn (S^/f hrs.), destitute
of shade, and very disagreeable in bad weather. We ascend the monoton-
ous Alpthal (with the nunnery of Au on the right) to the (IVa hr.) village
of Alpt?uil (3!258'; *Stern), where the somewhat rough aud steep log-path
ascending the Hacken begins. In Vs 1^'> ^^ reach a point where the
^pace between the two Mythen (p. 97), shaped like the letter V, is
'istinctly observed, and in Vs hr. more the Jtm on the Hacken-Past
ROTHKREUZ. 30, Route, 95
C4S880, which commands a splendid view of the lakes of Lucerne and
Lowerz, etc. (The view is still finer from the ^Boclufuckli^ 5iC&^ V« *»'.
higher up, to the N., and embraces the K. part of the lake and the town
of Ziirich.) Descent to (1 hr.) vSchwyz steep and stony.
Fhok Eissibdkln to .Sghwtz oveb the Ibbbgeb Ego, 13 H. Good
road through the BihUhal or Euthal by Steinbach and Euthal to (8 M.)
Iberff (3483'); thence to the Iberger Egg (48230 or Heilighauschen, afford-
ing a fine survey of the Lake of Lucerne and the Alps, and by BUlitberg
and Sickwbach to (5 M.) Schwyz.
The road from Schwyz to (3 M.) Brunnen (St. Gotthard Railway,
see p. 97) crosses the Muota (p. 97) at Jbachj and passes Ingen-
hohly with its pilgrimage-church and the nunnery of Mariahilfy
founded in 1856.
19^/2 M. Brunnen J see p. 78.
30. From Lucerne to Bellinzona. St. Ootthard
Bailway.
Ckmip. Maps^ pp. 74^ 80^ 96, 104.
109 M. Railway. Express in 5^/4, ordinary trains in TVs hrs. \ fares
24 fr. 60, 17 fr. 20, 12 fr. 30 c. (To Lugano 127V2 M., express in Q^U hrs.:
29 fr. 30, 20 fr. 60, 14 fr. 66 c.^ to Milan 176 M., in 9>A hrs.; 36 fr. 65,
18 fr. 6 c.) Bothkreuz (p. 69), a station between Zug and Lucerne, the
starting-point of the St. Gotthard line, is reached by express from Ziirich
in about IV2 hr. ; from Bdle by Lucerne in 3 hrs., or by Aarau or by
Brugg and Mnri in 3V2-4>/4 hrs. — For the day express there is a table
d'hote at Gdschenen, where the traveller should be careful to avoid an
involuntary change of carriages, or even of trains. In the great tunnel it
is unnecessary to close the windows (comp. p. 101), but this should be
done in the curved or loop- tunnels, especially in ascending. Finest views
from the 1st class end-coupes (Aussichtswagen) : from Lucerne to Fluelen
to the right, from Fluelen to Goschenen to the left, and from Airolo to
Bellinzona to the right.
The **Bt. Gotthard Railway, opened on 22nd Hay, 1882, its con-
struction having occupied ten years, is one of the grandest achievements
of modern times. It includes the Immensee, Goldau, Fluelen, Bellinzona.
Lugano, and Chiasso (128 M.), the Bellinzona and Locarno (I8V2 H.) and
the Bellinzona, Hagadino, and Pino (17 M.) lines. The highest point of the
line, in the middle of the great tunnel, is 3787' above the sea-level, and
the maximum gradient is about 1' in 4'. At places the ascent is rendered
more gradual by means of curved tunnels, piercing the sides of the
valley; there are three such tunnels on the ^. side, and four on the S.
side of the mountain (comp. Hap, p. 97). Altogether the line has 66
tunnels (of an aggregate length of 2dV2 H.), 32 bridges, 10 viaducts, and 24
minor bridges. In order to examine the most interesting structure of the
line itself, the traveller should drive in an open carriage or walk from Amsteg
to GK>schenen (12 H.) and from Airolo to Giornico (15 H.). Those who are not
pressed for time should take the steamboat from Lucerne to Fluelen, in
preference to the train; or, if they have not yet visited the Rigi, they
may take the railway to Rothkreuz, Arth-Goldau, the Rigi-Eulm, and
Yitznan, and the steamer thence to Fluelen.
From Lueeme to (11 M.) Sothkrenz (1444'), see p. 69. Our
line diverges to the right, traversing a hilly and wooded tract. To
the right a glimpse of Pilatus with the Bernese Alps beyond it.
Before reaching Immensee (p. 90), which lies below us, on the left,
96 Boute30. GOLDAU. From Lucerne.
we obtain a survey of the E. part of the Lake of Zug (p. 90). On
the N. bank lies WaUhwyli then St, Adrian (p. 90),
16 M. Immensee-KiUiBnAoht (1685'). Omnibus to Kiissnacht
in 25 min. (p. 90; TelVs Chapel, at the end of the ^Hohle Gas8e\
is Y2 ^- ^^om the station). To the right the wooded slopes of the
Bigi, with the Kulm Hotel far above us (p. 84).
The train runs high above the Lake of Zug , passing through
several cuttings. At the E. end of the lake, on the left, lies the
thriving village of Arth (p. 91), at the foot of the wooded Ross-
berg; in front of us rise the Mythen (see below). Threading the
Rindelfluh Tunnel (220 yds.) and several rock-cuttings, we cross
the high-road and the Rigi line (p. 83) to —
21M. Arth-Goldan(1844'; Rail, Restaur.; *Hof Ooldau, 3 min.
from the station ; ^Rossli, in the village of Goldau), situated on
the scene of the great Ooldau Landalipy and also a station on the
Arth'Rigi-Railway (p. 83).
Ooldau Landslip. The BosBberg, or Ruft (51900) which rises above the
village of Goldau, is composed, like the Rigi, of ^Nagelflue", a conglomerate
of limestone and flint pebbles imbedded in a calcareous cement. This rock,
itself extremely hard, is interstratified with sandstone and other soft for-
mations, which are apt to be disintegrated by exposure to the air, or saturat-
ed by subterranean waters, in which case they descend suddenly into the
valleys in the form of huge streams of mud. The superincumbent strata
of conglomerate, being thus deprived of their support, are also from time
to time precipitated into the valleys. On 2nd Sept., 1806, one of these
strata, upwards of 1 M. in length, lOOO' in breadth, and 100* in thickness,
was precipitated from a height of dOOff into the valley below, burying four
villages with 457 of their inhabitants, filling up one-fourth of the Lake
of Lowerz, and converting the smiling landscape into a rocky chaos. The
village of Lowerz, 3 H. to the E. of Goldau, lost its church and some of
its houses by the same catastrophe. — Ascent of the Rotsberg^ see p. 94.
The railway traverses part of this scene of desolation, which
extends a considerable way up the Rigi. Time has covered the frag-
ments of rock with moss and other vegetation, and pools of stagnant
water have been formed between them at places. The track of the
landslip may be distinctly traced on the side of the Rossberg, which
Is still entirely barren.
On the slope to the left lie the houses of Steinenberg (p. 94) ;
on the right, high above, is the Kurhaus Rigi-Scheideyg (p. 87).
The train rounds the pretty Lowerzer See (1476'; 274 M. long).
To the right lies the village of Lowerz , and in the middle of the
lake the island of Schwanau with its ruined castle. — 24^2 M.
Steinen (1525'; RossW), a considerable village in a fertile situa-
tion, the traditional birthplace of Werner Stauff acker (^.79). On
the supposed site of his house stands a chapel with old frescos,
which is said to have been erected in 1400. The train crosses the
8teinen-Aa to —
26 M. Bchwyz-Seewen. The village of 5c«cen (1515'; *Rossli;
Stem), to the W. of the line, at the foot of the E. spur of the Rigi,
has a chalybeate bath which attracts visitors. About 1 M. to the E.
lies Sohwya (1686' j pop. 6543; •iJoaait, R., L., & A. 2-3 fr. ;
to Bellinzona. SCHWYZ. 30. Route, 97
*H6telHediger^ same charges), a straggling town, lying picturesquely
at the base and on the slopes of the Little Mythe (5954Q with its two
peaks , and the Oreat Mythe (62449. The Parish Church (1774) is
considered one of the handsomest in Switzerland. The Town Hall
contains portraits of 43 'landammanns' (magistrates) from 1534
downwards, and an old carved ceiling. The large Jesuit Monastery ^
above the town, is now a grammar-school.
The • G^eat Uythe (6244' ; 3V2 hrs. \ guide 4 fr. , unnecessary for the
experienced -, horse to the Holzegg 8-10 fr.), ascended without difficulty by
a good but somewhat dizzy path, is a magnificent point of view, hardly
inferior to the Rigi and Pilatus. Road from Schwyz to (iV4 M.) Bickenbach
(Stem, good, pens. 4 fr. \ Bellevue, very primitive) ^ hridle-path thence to
the (I'/s hr.) Holzegg (5010*), which may also be reached by a more direct
path from Schwyz via St. Joseph (guide desirable). — From Brunnen by
Ibach and Bickenbach to the Holzegg in 2V»-3 hrs. , Schwyz remaining on
the left. — Good path from Einsiedeln by Alpthal to the Holzegg in 2V4
hrs. — From the Holzegg the new Hythen path (railings at the steepest
parts) ascends in 48 zigzags on the E. side of the mountain, and then follows
a narrow arSte to the (iVi hr.) summit (Inn, new, 10 beds). Good panorama
by A. Helm.
We now turn to the S. (passing the Frohnalpstock on the left,
with the Kurhaus Stoos far above us, p. 78), cross the Muota
near Ingenbohl, and reach —
28 Y2 M. Brunnen (1434'; p. 78), the most frequented spot on
the Lake of Lucerne. (Station on the N.W. side, 1/2 M. from the lake.)
Passing through a tunnel under the Gutsch and the Axen-
strasse (p. 79), the train now reaches the *Umer See, or S.E.
bay of the Lake of Lucerne (p. 79), and is carried along its bank
by a series of tunnels and rock-cuttings. Splendid views of the
lake to the right. High above it, on the opposite bank, lie the
houses of Seelisberg^ at the foot of which are the Mythenstein and
Rutli (p. 79) ; and further distant towers the Uri-Rothstock with
its glacier (p. 80). We pass through the Hochfluh Tunnel
(640 yds.), the St, Franciseus Tunnel (212 yds.), and the Oelberg
Tunnel (2169 yds.), the second-longest on the line. 32^2 M.
Sisikon, at the mouth of the narrow RiemenstcU>denthal (p. 76).
Crossing the Axenstrasse, and enjoying fine glimpses of the lake
and the Uri-Rothstock to the right, we traverse the Stutzeck Tunnel
(1082 yds.) and others, passing TeWs Platte (chapel not visible;
p. 79), the Axenberg (3670' long), and the Sulzeck^ to —
36 M. Fluelen (1434' ; Rail. Restaur, ; comp. p. 80), the port
of Uri, and the starting-point of the high-ioad over the St. Gott-
hard, formerly a busy depot of vehicles of every kind.
We now ascend the broad lower Reussthal, with the Bristen"
stock (p. 99) in the background, and the two Windgdllen (p. 110)
to the left of it.
38 M. Altdorf, or ilitor/" (1466'; pop. 2901 ; *H6t. de la Oare,
nnpretending, R. 1-2 fr. ; ^SchlUssel; *Lbwe; Krone; *Tellj un-
pretending ; beer at Reiser s)t the capital of Canton Uri, 1 M. from
the station, lies in a fertile valley surrounded by mountains.
Bardbkkb, Switzerland. 12th Edition. 7
98 BouUSO. ERSTFELD. From Lucerne
This pleasant little town is the traditional scene of the exploits of
William Tell, the liberator of Switzerland from the Austrian yoke. A colos-
sal Statue of Tell^ in plaster, erected in 1861, is said to occupy the spot
whence the intrepid archer aimed at the apple placed on his son^s head by
order of the tyrant Gessler. About 150 paces distant stands a fountain,
with a statue of Betler^ a magistrate of the town, erected on the supposed
site of the lime-tree by which TelFs child stood while awaiting his father''s
arrow, and which is said to have flourished here till 1567. Some say that
the lime-tree was thirty paces farther back, on the ground where the tower
now stands; but the latter is known to have existed before the 14th cent.
The Church contains a Madonna in relief, by Imhof. The Ca"
puehin Monastery y abOTe the church, and the neighbouring Pavilion
Waldeck command beautiful views. (Ascent near the tower, or
from below Toll's statue.) Above the monastery lies the Bannwald^
a 'sacred grove', in which the woodman's axe is proscribed, as it
protects Altdorf from falling rocks (see Schiller's Tell, Actiii, Scene 3).
To the right, beyond the town, is a A'tifUMry, to the left ihe Arsenal;
then, about 1 M. to the left, the village of Biirglen (180i^ Tell), prettily
situated on a height at the entrance to the 8chdchenthal (p. 62), the tra-
ditional birth-place of Tell. The supposed site of his house is marked
by a Chapely erected in 1522, and adorned with paintings of his exploits.
Through the Sch&ehenthal and over the Klatuen to Btcuhelberg,, see
B. 20. A glimpse at the SchAohenthal is best obtained by ascending from
Weiterschteanden or Spiringen (p. 63) in about iVs hr. to one of the fanui-
houses in the Kessel (4505')^ which afford a most picturesque survey of the
grand head of the valley (Scheerhorn, Griesgletscher, Kammlistock, and
Glaridenstock) , with beautiful fresh pastures and dark pine-forest in the
foreground. — The B.os8-8tock (8080' \ 5 hra. ; with guide), a splendid point
of view , is ascended from Biirglen. Descent, if preferred, through the
Riemensialdenthal to Sisikon (p. 97).
The train now crosses the wild Schdchenhach in its artificial bed,
near its confluence with the Reuss. From among fruit-trees to the
left peeps the pretty church of Schattorf. To the right, beyond the
Reuss, we observe the church-tower and the ruined castle ofAtting-
hausen, in which the Baron Werner of Attinghausen mentioned in
Schiller's Tell is said to have died in 1307. The background of
the valley towards the S. is formed by the pyramidal Bristenstock
(p. 99); to the right rise the bold precipices of the Qitschen (8334')
and the Boeldi (6810'); to the left the Miiiagstock (6663'), Belmi-
stoek (7933'), Hohe Faulen (8212'), and lastly the two Windgallen
{Qro68€, or Kalkatock, 10,463'; Kleine, or Sewelistock, 9846').
41 V2 M. Erttfeld (1503'- HofErstfeld, H6t. Bahnhof, both at
the station), a large railway-dep6t , where the ascent begins and a
heavier locomotive is attached to the train. The village lies on the
opposite bank of the Reuss , at the mouth of the Eratfelder Thaly
above which peep the jagged Spannorter , the Engelberg-Rothstockj
and the strangely contorted Schlossherg Glacier.
The interesting Brstfelder Thai (comp. Map, p. 114), flanked by steep
and lofty mountains, extends to the Schlossberg Olacier (4 hra.). At the
head of the valley are two Alpine lakes, the gloomy Favlenseej Va ^^- from
the glacier, and the Obersee (6463'), */* br. farther to the S., at the base
of the Krdnlet or KrSnte (10,197'). The FavUnbaehy which flows out of the
latter, forms a beautiful fall. Fatiguing passes (10-11 hrs. j for adepts
nly, with good guides) lead hence over the Schlossberg-LUcle (8635') and
'er the Spannort-Joch (9610") to Engelberg (comp. p. 116).
to BeUintona, AMSTEG. 30. Route. 99
From Erstfeld or Altdorf over the Surenen to Engelberff, see p. 116.
The Reussthal narrows, and tlie train begins to ascend on the
right bank. 45 M. Stat. Amsteg (ITQS'), ibove Silenen^ a village in
tlie midst of fruit-trees. Near the station , on a rocky hill to the
right, are the ruins of Zwing-Vrij traditionally a castle of Gessler.
About 1 M. to the S. lies the village of Amsteg (1760' ; *Stem, or
Post; *Hir8ch; HoU-Pens. Freihof, in all, R. 1V2-2, 'pens.' 4-6 fr.),
prettily situated at the mouth of the Maderaner Thai, through which
the Karsteleribaeh descends to the Reuss.
'^Maderaner Thal (bridle-path in 3V4 hrs. to the H5tel Alpenclub),
see B. 32. — Over the Kr&zli Pass or the Brunni Pass to Disentis and over
the Clariden Pass to BtacheWerg^ see p. 110.
The BrUtenstock (lO^OQCr; 8-9 hrs.; very fatiguing; guide 20 fr.), as-
cended from Amsteg by the Bristenalp and the Blaekialp^ affords a grand
hut hardly repaying panorama. Descent to the Ettlithal or Fellithal diffi-
cult. — Oberalpstoek (10,922), Kleine and Cfrosse WindgalU (9800' and
10,470'), etc., see p. 109, 110. — The Hohe Faulen (8290'; 5 hrs., with
guide; not diflicult and attractive) may be ascended from Silenen through
the Evithal and over the Strengmatt, Rhonen^ and Balmeten Alps.
The St. Gotthard Road from Amsteg to Goschenen (comp. Map, p. 96) is
recommended to walkers, both for the sake of the scenery and for the op-
portunity it affords of examining the interesting railway. It crosses the
Karstelenbach and then the Keuss by a bridge of two arches. To the left runs
the railway; below us dashes the Beuss through its deep ravine, forming a
succession of waterfalls. In the early summer huge masses of avalanche-
snow, looking like earth or detritus, are seen in some of the gorges. Be-
yond (1^4 ^0 I^^i^chi (2168' ; Lamm) we pass a fall of the Inscki-Alpbaeh. A
picturesquely situated bridge carries the road back to the right bank of
the Reuss (the railway remaining on the left bank), on which lies (IV2 M.)
Meitsehlingen, with a chapel. About V2 M. farther we cross the Fellibaeh.
(Through the narrow FellirThal or FeUenen-Thal, which abounds in
crystals, the Oberalp-See may be reached by the FeW-LUcke in 6 hrs. ;
p. 353.) On the hill opposite stands the hamlet of Gvrtnellen (5153').
Beyond the village of Wyler is (3 M".) a third bridge (2661'), called the
Pfaffensprnng Cpriest's leap", from the tradition that a monk once leaped
across the stream here with a girl in his arms), by which the road re-
crosses to the left bank. The first of the curved tunnels of the railway
begins here (see below). Far below, the river dashes through a narrow gorge.
View beautiful in both directions. The road crosses the turbulent Mtierv-
Reuss (p. 123) shortly before reaching (IV2 H.) Wasen (p. 100). To the
right are the three railway-bridges. A path to the right, 50 yds. beyond
the bridge, cuts off the windings of the road which ascends to the loftily
situated church.
Kear (^/* M.) Wattingen (2998') is the fourth bridge over the Beuss,
above which, to the right, is a fall of the Rohrbach (p. 100). The (1 M.) fifth
bridge iScMnibrilck, 3212') crosses to the left bank of the Beuss. To the
left rises the Tev/etsstein^ a huge mass of rock. The next place (IV2 H.)
is Gdsehenen (3488'; p. 100). Thence to Andermatt, see p. 106.
The most interesting part of the line begins here. Above the
village of Amsteg it pierces a projecting rock by means of the Wind-
gatle Tunnel (1828'; 189 yds. long), crosses the Karstelenbach by
an imposing iron bridge (147yds. long, 177' high; fine view of the
deeply-cut Maderaner Thai, with the Grosse Windgalle, to the left,
and of the Reussthal to the right), and is then carried through the
slope of the Bristenstock, which is much exposed to avalanches, by
means of the two Bristenlaui Tunnels (436 yds. and 234 yds. long),
and across the brawling Reuss by an iron *Bridge 256' high. We
7*
100 Route 30. GOSOHENEN. From Lucerne
now follow the left hank of the pictnresque Reussthal (ylews to the
left), traverse the Jnschi Tunnel (96 yds.), cross the Intchialpbach
and the Zraggenthal (viaduct about 100 yds. long), thread the short
Zgraggen^ Breitenj and Meitschlinger tunnels and a long cutting,
and skirt the hill-side hy a viaduct to (50 M.) Gurtnellen (2297').
Above Gurtnellen we come to one of the most remarkable parts
of the line, which in order to facilitate the ascent to Goschenen
(see below) passes through three curved tunnels and round a wide
bend. It crosses the Gomerenhach and the Hagrigenbach (fine
waterfall on the right), enters, near the Pfaffensprung^Brucke
(p. 99), the Pfaffensprung Loop Tunnel (1635 yds., 3 min.), in
which it mounts 115', goes through the short Miihle Tunnel, re-cross-
es the Hagrigenbach (overlooking the Pfaffensprung bridge on the
left), and then traverses the Muhren Tunnel (2822'; 93 yds. long).
Then follow a handsome bridge over the deep ravine of the Meien-
reuss (p. 123), the Kirchberg Tunnel under the *chuTch-hill' of
Wasen (330 yds.), a bridge across the Reuss to the left, theWattin-
ger Loop Tunnel (1199 yds. ; ascent of 760, another bridge over
the Reuss, and the Rohrbctch Tunnel (242 yds.). 55 M. Wasen
(3055'), a considerable village (*^6t. rfe«ilip«a; *0ch8; Krone; Re-
staur. Post^j with a loftily situated church commanding an ad-
mirable survey of the bold structure of the railway. — Over the
Susten to Meiringen^ see R. 37.
The imposing *Mittlere Meienreuss Briicke (69 yds. long, 260'
high) and the Leggistein Loop Tunv^el (1204 yds. ; ascent of 82')
carry us to the third or Upper Meienreuss Bridge (59 yds. long;
148' high), beautifully situated. We then pass through the Afeien-
kreu% Tunnel (3251'; 84 yds. long), skirt the hill -side, and obtain
a view of Wasen and the windings just traversed. Opposite rises
the Riemer Stock (9785'). Crossing the Kellerback and the Rohr-
bach, the train passes through the Naxberg Tunnel (1719 yds. ; ascent
of 118'), crosses the deep gorge of the Ooschenen Reuss (bridge
69 yds. long, 161' high; view of the Ooschenenthal to the right,
with the beautiful Dammafirn, p. 104), and reaches —
591/2 M. Gdsohenen, or Oeschenen (3640'; *Rail. Restaur. ^ D.
3^2 ^r* j *H6t. Goschenen f opposite the station, R., L., & A. 3 fr.
75 c. ; '^Rossli, in the village, 1/4 M. distant, R. & A. 2 fr. ; H6t. de
la Gate; St. Gotthard; Lowe; Krone). — From Goschenen to Airolo
by the St. Gotthard Road, 22 M., see R. 31.
Immediately beyond the station the train crosses the Gotthard-
Reuss (p. 107) by a bridge 105' high, and enters the great St.
Gotthard Tunnel, which is 16,309 yds. (91/4 M.) in length, being
2930 yds. (I2/3 M.^ longer than the Mont Cenis Tunnel. The
central point is 378d' above the sea-level, from which it descends
on both sides, about 6' in 1000' towards Goschenen and 2' in 1000'
towards Airolo. The work was begun in June 1872, at Goschenen,
\nd a month later at Airolo, and the boring was completed on
to BeUinzona. AIBOLO. 30, EouU. 101
29th Feb. 1880. During seven years and a half no fewer than
2500 workmen were on an average employed here daily, and the
number sometimes rose to 3400. The cost was estimated at
50 million fr. (2 million pounds sterling), but that sum was ex-
ceeded by 63/4 millions (270,000^.). The boring machines used
were on the improved Ferroux system, worked by compressed air.
The tunnel, 28' broad and 21' high, is lined with masonry
throughout, and is laid with a double line of rails. As a current
of fresh air (temperature 70" Fahr.) constantly passes through the
tunnel, it is unnecessary to close the windows. The tunnel runs
at a depth of 1083' below Andermatt, 6076' below the Kastelhorn
(which rises above the centre of the tunnel), and 3350' below the
Sella Lake. Express trains take20min. to pass through the tunnel,
slow trains 27-30 min. ; at intervals of 1000 metres are placed
lanterns on each side of the tunnel, numbered I to XV, the even
numbers being on the right side and the uneven on the left.
691/2 M. Airolo (3756'; *Po8ta, R., L., & A. 3-31/2, I>. ^%
B. IV4 ft.; *^ot, Airolo y R. & A. 2V2 ft- » *S6t. des Alpes,
*B6L Lomhardi , both at the station) , in the upper valley of the
Ticino (^VcUle LeventincL, p. 103), the first Italian-Swiss village, re-
built since a fire in 1877.
A drive from Airolo to Giomico in an open carriage is very inter-
eating (comp. p. 96% one-horse to F&ido 10, to Giomico 19 fr.). — Bridle-
path through the Vdi Bedretto and over the Nufenen Pass to Wallis^ see
p. 293% over the 8. Oiacomo Pass (7572') to the Falls o/the Tosa^ see p. 296.
Throngh the Vol Maggia to Looarno, see p. 414. Through the Vol Ca-
naria and over the Unleralp Pass (8303') to Andermatt (8 hrs.), fatiguing ;
the ascent very steep. Over the Bocca di Cadlimo (JSSS7') to iS. Maria in
8 hrs. attractive. — By Passo Bomengo to Val Maigels^ see p. 358.
Fbok Aibolo to Disemtis thbough the Val Pioba (10 hrs., guide,
unnecessary, to Piora 6, to S. Maria 10 fr.; horse to Piora, 3 hrs., 12 fr.).
Descending the St. Gotthard road for */* M., we cross the Canaria to the
left, and ascend to (20 min.) Madrono (41090. After 1/4 hr. more the path
ascends the slope to the left to (20 min.) BrugTuuco (4548'). It then runs
on nearly at the same level, overlooking the picturesque Val Ticino, and
afterwards through wood. From (V4 hr.) Altanca (4567' ; Inn) we ascend to
tbe left in zigzags past a small chapel to (40 min.) Valle (a spring by the
wayside). The rock below it bears a very ancient inscription. In
the gorge to the right are several picturesque waterfalls. Fine retro-
spect of the Alps of Ticino. We next cross a rocky saddle to the
(Va hr.) sequestered Lake Ritom (6000'), on a hill to the left of which
is the "^Hdtel Piora (sheltered, and suitable for some stay). Pine-woods
close to the hotel. Several good points of view in the neighbourhood
{Fongio^ Pian* Allo^ Camoghi^ Punta Nera^ Taneda etc.). In secluded
basins lie six small lakes (and there are four others just beyond the ridges
in the direction of the Val Cadlimo'). Great variety of geological formations
and of plants. — The path to J3. Maria (3V4 hrs. ; porter 7 fr.) leads round
the lake, to the left. By the (20 min.) Ritom Chalets we ascend the slope
to the left by a narrow path to the (20 min.) chapel of S. Carlo. Orossing
the brook, and passing a cross on the right (leaving the small lake of Ca-
dagno, with its summer hamlet to the left), we reach (V4 hr.) Piora^ a
poor hamlet, and (V4 hr.) MuiHnasciOy a group of huts. The path, indi-
cated by crosses, leads straight on for V4 hr., and then ascends to the
left Farther on it always bears to the left. {The last huts of Piano de'
Porei lie to the right, below us. Persons bound for Olivone may from
102 Route 30. FAIDO. From Lucerne
this point cross direct by the Ptuto Columbe (7792*), between the Scai and
Pie Columbe^ to the Casaccia hospice^ p. 855.J We ascend the secluded
Vol Termine, with the Piz dell" U<mo (9022') on the left, to the (3/4 hr.)
summit of the TJomo Pass (7257' ; 10 min. before reaching which we pass
a good spring by a heap of stones), with its deserted hut. Descent on the
other side marshy at places. Before us to the right rises the Scopi, to
the left in the distance the Todi chain. The (1 hr.) Hospice of St. Maria ^
see p. 355. Thence to Disentis, or across the Lukmanier to Olivone, see B. 94.
Below Airolo the train crosses the Ticino^ which descends from
the Val Bedretto (p. 292), passes through the Stcdvedro-Tunnel
(209 yds.), and enters the Stretto di Stalvedro. On the left bank of
the Tlcino the high-road runs through four rock-cuttings. The
valley expands. 73 M. Ambii-Piotta. To the left lies Quinto.
Beyond (76 M.) Bodi-Fiesso (3110') we come to one of the most
curious parts of the line (comp. the map, p. 97). The Platifer
(Monte Piottino) here projects into the valley from the N. ; the Tl-
cino has forced its passage through the barrier, descending in a
series of falls through a wild rocky gorge to a lower region of the
valley, while the railway accomplishes the descent by means of
two circular tunnels. At Dazio Orande It crosses the Tlcino
(striking view down the valley), is carried through the Dazio
Tunnel (388 yds.) and the short Artoito Tunnel ^ and enters the
Freggio Loop Tunnel (1712 yds.), from which it emerges into the
Piottino Ravine, 118' lower down. It then recrosses the Tlcino, at
a point where the scenery is very fine, passes through the Monte
Piottino and Pardorea tunnels, and descends 118' more by means
of the Prato Loop Tunnel (1711 yds.), beyond which we enjoy a
view of the beautiful valley of Faido. Crossing the Ticino by the
Polmengo Bridge, and going through another tunnel, we reach —
81 M. raido (2352'; *Angelo, R. & A. 21/2, pens. 5-8 fr. ; *mL
Faido, at the station; *Hdt.-Pens. Fran^roW, pens., in cl. wine, 7fr. ;
Prince of Wales, Italian ; H6t, Velio), the capital of the Leventina,
very picturesquely situated. On the right the Piumogna descends
to the Ticino in a fine waterfall.
The "Valle Leventina , or Valley of the Ticino , formerly belonged to
Canton Uri, and was governed in the most despotic manner by bailiffs, who
purchased their appointment from the Landsgemeinde, as was the custom
in almost all the democratic cantons , as well as in the republics of anti-
quity. A revolt broke out in 1755, but was suppressed with the aid of the
Swiss troops. The French put an end to this mode of government in 1798,
and in 1815 the Congress of Vienna formed the Leventina and other Italian
districts into the new canton of Tessin or Ticino.
From Faido over the Predelp Pass to the Lukmanier, see p. 355.
The train now carries us through beautiful scenery on the left
bank of the Ticino ; the numerous campanUi in the Italian style,
crowning the hills , have a very picturesque effect. To the right
lies Chiggiogrui, with an old church. From the cliffs on both sides
fall several cascades, the veil-like fall of the Cribiasca on the right,
near (851/2 M.) LavorgOy being the finest. Huge masses of rock lie
scattered about, Interspersed with fine chestnut-trees. Vines and
lulberries begin to appear. Below Lavorgo the Tlcino forces its
lo BetUmOfui. BELLINZONA. 30. Route. 103
way through the pictnreaqne BiMoUna BtiTine to a lower region of
the villey, and formi a fine waterfall, while the railway flescendB
■boot 302' on the left bank by means of two loop-tunnels, one be-
low the other in cork-acrew fashion. We pass thiongh the La Lumt
l^ntul (508 yds.), eroae the Pianotondo Viaduct (114 ydi. long),
and then enter the Pirmotrmdo Loop Tunnel (1643 yds. ; descent of
115'). Neit follow the short Tnun^quit Tunnel, the Trari Viaduct
(67 yds.}, anil the Tram Loop Turmtl (1706 yds. ; desoeut of 118'J,
from which we emerge npon the floor of the lower Valle LeTentina.
Crosaing the Ticino, we neit reach —
90 M. Qiomico (1480'}. The large Tillage (1296'; Ceno; Co-
rona), picturesquely eituated on the left bank, II/4 M. to the S.,
has an old Lombard Cower and remains of fortiflcatione near the
chnrch of S. Maria di Catiello. The well-preaerved ehnrch of S.
Kieeolb da Mira, in the earliest Romaneaque atyle, ia said to occupy
the site of a heathen temple. Below Gioinico the train crosees the
Tidno by a bridge 132 yds. long. On the Tight is the pretty fall of
the Cratnoiina. 94 M. Bodio(1086'; Posto). Beyond Pb««spio(Co-
Tons) the Br«nno descends from Che Val BUgno (p. 356) on the left,
and is twice crossed by the line. The valley of the Ticino uow
expands and takes the name of Ehiiera down to the mouth of the
Hoesa. Luxuriant vines, chestnuts, walnuts, mulberries, and flg-
treea now remind the traveller of his proiimtty to 'the garden of
the eatUi, fail Italy'. The vines extend their dense foliage over
wooden trellis-work supported by stone piUara, 6-10' in height.
98 H. Biaua {Bail. Restaur. ; in the village, 1 M. from the
station, Union et Po»ie, well spoken of), with an old Romanesque
charch on a hill (1112'). A series of oratories nearthe station as-
cends to the PeironiUa Chapel, loftily situated, near which is the
beautiful 'Froda or St. PetroniUa Walerfoll. — To Oltoane, and
over the Lukmanier to Disentis, see R. 94.
The train skirts the base of the richly clothed E. slopes of Che
valley, which is very hot and dusty in summer. lOl'/z M. Oiogna
(965'i Pasta') lies at Che foot of an abrupt rock with a rounded
snmmit. Near Cresdano, to the left, are the pretty Boggtra Falls.
105 M. Clsro (lOa?"} lies at the baae of the Plszo di Clato (8920'),
a beautiful mountain with luxuriant pasCures, on the slope of which,
to the left, stands the monastery of 8. Maria (2074'). Beyond
(iOT'A M.)Ca«tione the train pasaea the month of the Val Mesocco
(p. 366) and crosses the Mdeta. To the left lies Arbeda (p. 366). We
now approach Bellinzona, a most picturesque-looking place, with
its lofty pinnacled walls and its three picturesque old castlea,
109 M. BaUimoiM, Ger. BeUam (760'; pop. 2436; 'Fostt tt
Pens. Suisse, R., L., & A. 3 fr.; *Angelo: B6t. BelUmona ; Rail. Be-
itaUT.), a town of quite Italian character , with a handsome abbey-
church of the 16th cent., ia the capital of Canton Ticino. It is com-
104 RouU3l. GOSCHENEN-THAL.
manded on the W. by the C<uteUo Orande , on an isolated hill ; on
the E. by the CasUUo di Mezzo ^ or di Svitto^ and the CaateUo Cor-'
bario or Corbh, the highest of the three (1502'). In the middle
ages Bellinzona was strongly fortified by the Yisconti and others,
and was regarded as the key to the route from Lombardy to Ger-
many. The fortifications have been partly restored of late.
The three castles were the residencea of the three Swiss BaiUfTs (comp.
p. 103) , in whom the iudicial and executive authority waa vested. Each
castle had a small garrison and a few cannons. The Castello Orande^ which
affords a striking view, belonged to Uri, and is now used as a prison and
arsenal (visitors admitted ; fee). The Cattello di Mezzo belonged to Schwyz \
the upper, the Castello Corbario, now in ruins, to Unterwalden. — Beauti-
ful walk (IVt hr. in all) towards the 8. of the town) up the road to the
highest castle, with charming views, but not quite up to the gate, where
the hill becomes more level and is planted with lofty chestnuts ; then
back, and through the vineyards to the conspicuous pilgrimage-chapel of
S. Maria delta Salute^ another admirable point of view ; lastly, to the left
of the chapel, back to the station.
Ascent of the Monte Camoghh (from Bellinzona 7-8 hrs.), (with guidj^,
see p. 410. — Over the Pa»so di B. Jorio to the Lake of Como^ see p. 42o.
From Bellinzona to Lugano and Como^ see p. 407; to Locarno^
p. 410; to LavenOj p. 416.
31. From Ooschenen to Airolo over the St. Gotthard.
22 H. DiLiGKNCs from Ooschenen to Andermati 4 times daily in 1 hr.
(fare ij/a, coupd 1 fr. 80 c.)^ to Hoepenthal 4 times in IV2 hr. (2 fr. 25 or
2 fr. 7()c.). No diligence from Hospenthal over the 8t. Gotthard. Omni-
BU8S8 from the Goschenen station to the Andermatt (l-iVs fr.) and Hospen*
thai hotels (2 fr.). Gabriaok and pair from Gosohenen to Hospental 10, to
the Hospice 40, to Airolo 60-70 fr.
The St. Gtitthard was probably the most frequented of the Alpine
passes down to the beginning of this century, but being crossed by a
Dridle-path only it was gradually deserted for the new roads over the 8im-
plon, the 8plugen, and the Bernardino. In 1820-32 the cantons of Url
and Ticino constructed the carriage-road, which for half-a-century was the
scene of busy trafflc ; but since the completion of the railway it has again
become deserted. Travellers will, however, be repaid by a drive in an
open carriage or a walk over the pass. Those wnosc chief object is to
make excursions from the Hospice will reach it more quickly from Airolo
than from Goschenen.
OdBchenen (36400, on the St. Gotthard Railway, see p. 100.
The Q6iohenen-Thal (3 hrs. to the Goschenen-Alp, guide unnecessary;
provisions should be taken) deserves a visit. A good path leads by Ab-
fruit to (IV4 hr.) Wieki (4350') , where the Vor'alper Reuse dashes from the
Kaltbrunnen-Kehle, a ravine on the right; then by St. Niklaue and the Brin-
dlistaffel (5043') to the (IV4 hr.) Ottschenen-Alp (6040'), grandly situated. To
the W. descends the beautiful Dammaflm from the Winterberff range (which
culminates in the Dammattock and Rhone»tock)\ and 1 hr. farther up the
valley the Goschenen-Reuss issues from the Kehle Olaeiery imbedded be-
tween the Wintcrberg and Steinberg. — A moderately easy and very in-
teresting path (7 hrs., with guide) leads from the Goschenen-Alp over
the Alpligen-OUtscher and the Alpligen-Llioka (SllO'), between the Loch"
berg and Smtzberg (p. 102), to Realp (p. 102). The 8.E. peak of the *Loch-
btrg (94000i whlcli affiirdi a splendid view of the Galenstock gronp and
the Alps of the Vulais ns far as Hont Blanc, is easily ascended in '/i hr.
from tne pans. — Several difncult passes, At for experts only, cross from
^he G6schonen-Alp to the Rb(me and Trift Glaciers ( THnten/ocA, Dammapaesy
^aatplankjoch; comp. p. 123). Over the Buettn-Limmi (10,180*) or the
DEVlL^S BRIDGE. 31. Route. 105
TMerberg-Limmi (about 10,50(/) to the Steinalp, 9 hrs., laborioiu (see p. 128).
— Ascent of the Plecki«tock(iSf^t<zK6«r^, 11,214'; guideSOfr.) for experts only,
difficult. We ascend from Wicki (see above) through the Kaltbrunnen-KehU
to the (11/4 hr.) Hom/eli-Alp (5850*; spend night). At the head of the
valley, in view of the WaUenbUhlJim^ we mount to the right to the FlUhen
(78740 j then over loose stones and steep rock to the summit (6 hrs. from
the Hornfeli-Alp).
Above the Goschenen station the *St. Gotthabd Road crosses
the ReuBS by the Vordere, or Hddtrli-Brueke (3720'). On the left
are the railway bridge and the N. end of the great tunnel. Here,
Vi M. beyond Goschenen , begins the sombre rocky defile of the
^ehollenen (21/2 M. long), bounded by lofty and almost perpendic-
ular granite rocks, at the base of which dashes the Reuss. The road
ascends by numerous windings, most of which may be cut off by
footpaths or the old bridle-path passing the disused Lange Brucke
(no saving effected by crossing it), and crossing the Sprengibruck
(4048*). The road in the Sch5Uenen is much exposed to avalanches,
and at one of the most dangerous points Is protected by a gallery,
60yd8. long, at the farther end of which is the bull's head of Uri.
The road next crosses (2^/4 M. from Goschenen) the •Bevil'i
Bridge (Teufelshruckej 4593'), amidst wild and grand rocky scenery.
The Reuss here falls in a picturesque cascade into an abyss 100' be-
low, bedewing the bridge with its spray. The wind (aptly called
'Hutschelm*, or *hat-rogue', by the natives) sometimes comes down
the gorge In violent gusts, and endangers the hats of the unwary.
The new bridge, built of granite in 1830, has a single arch of 26'
span. The old bridge, 20' below, is disused and over-grown with
moss.
A battle between the French and the Austrians took place here on
14th Aug., 1799, with the resnlt that the latter were compelled to retreat
over the Oberalp to Disentis. A month later the tide of fortune turned. Suvo-
roff, after several sharp skirmishes in the Val Tremola (p. 108), with the aid
of Rosenberg, who had crossed the Lukmanier and the Oberalp, drove the
French before him. On the morning of 25th Sept. the Russians forced the
passage of the Urner Loch with severe loss, but were again checked at the
Devil's Bridge, which was stoutly defended by the French. The latter at-
tempted to blow up the bridge, but only succeeded in destroying a stone
embankment by wliich it was approached. Nothing daunted, the Russians
gallantly descended under galling fire to the bed of the Reuss, succeeded
in crossing it and clambering up the opposite bank, and after a fierce
conflict compelled their enemy to retreat to the Lake of Lucerne.
Beyond the Devil's Bridge (cabaret; good collection of St. Gott-
hard minerals) the road winds upwards to the (i/gM.) Timer Loch
(4642'), a tunnel 70 yds. long cut through the rock in 1707, orig-
inally broad enough for a bridle-path only. Prior to 1707 a hanging
chain-bridge , called the Stduhende BruckCj conducted the traveller
round the Teufelsstein, through a constant shower of spray.
The Yalley of tJrseren, upon which the road emerges from the
dark Urner Loch , presents a striking contrast to the wild region
jnst traversed. This peaceful valley (p. Ill), with its green pastures
watered by the Reuss, is about 8 M. in length and 1/2 -^ M. in
breadth, and is surrounded by lofty and barren mountains partially
106 2?ot<t«3i. ANDERMATT. From Goschenen
covered with snow. Corn grows here but scantily, and trees are
scarce. Winter lasts nearly eight months, and during the short
summer fires are often necessary.
4 M. Andermatt. — "^Hot.-Pens. Bsllevue, a large hotel, in an open
situation, Vi M. from the village, R., L., & A. 5-8, B. I1/2, D. 5 fr., high
charges for carriages (Engl. Ch. Serv.): opposite, Hot.-Pens. Naqee, small;
St. Gotthabd, R., L., A A. 31/2, D. 4 fr. ; •Dbei Konige, R. & A. 2, B.
IV4, D. 3 fr. : "HdT. Obekalp, R., L., A A. 2V4, D. 2Vz <r<; *Kbo»e, moderate ;
Sonne. — Cafi-Rettaw. du TourUie^ by the Bellevue, with a few rooms.
Andermatt (4738'; pop. 722), or Urseren^ Ital. Oraera^ IV4 M.
from the Devil's Bridge , the principal village in the valley, is a
winter resort of invalids. Adjoining the church is a charnel-house
adorned with skulls bearing inscriptions (comp. p. 70). At the exit
of the Urner Loch, beside the cliffs to the left, is a much older
church said to date from the time of the Lombards. The Mariahilf
chapel affords a good survey : to the W. rises the barren greyBazberg,
in the background theFurka with its inn, to the left the Muttenhorn \
a few paces beyond the chapel, the Six-Madun, or Badus(see below),
is visible; to the E. in long zigzags ascends the road over the Ober-
alp (p. 354). St. Gotthard minerals sold by Frau Meyer-Huller.
From Andermatt over the Oberalp to Coire^ see R. 93; over the Furka
to the Rhone Olacier^ see R. 33.
The *Badus, or Six-Xadnn (96160) the huge outpost of the Alps of the
Orisons, is ascended from Andermatt in 4V2-5 hrs. (guide necessary ^ from
Tschamut easier and shorter, p. 353). The summit, which consists of blocks
of gneiss, commands numberless peaks of the Alps of the Orisons, Bern, and
the Valais , and the whole of the Yorder-Rheinthal. — The Ourachenttoek
(9423'; 4 hrs.) and Oamastock (9728' ; 41/2 hrs.) are also fine points of view
(guide necessary). — Over the Unteralp Pats to Airolo (8 hrs.), see p. 101.
Between Andermatt and Hospenthal we observe the Glacier of
St. Anna, high above the brow of the mountain to the left.
51/2 M. Hospenthal (4800'; Meyerhof, R., L., & A. 4-6, B. IV2,
D. 4-5, pens. 8-10 fr., high charges for carriages) derives its name
from a hospice which formerly stood here. The tower on the hill is a
relic of a castle said to have been built by the Lombards. The Furka
Road (R. 33) diverges to the right beyond the village.
The St. (jotthard road ascends in numerous windings through a
bleak valley, on the left bank of that branch of the Reuss which
descends from the Lake of Lucendro (see below). A short-cut di-
verges to the left by the second house beyond the Reuss bridge.
Pleasant retrospects of the Urseren-Thal and the jagged peaks of
the Spitzberge (p. 112), as far as the Galenstock to the W. To the
left of the bleak (3 M.) Gamtboden opens the abrupt Gu$pis-Thalj
at the head of which are the Gutpis Glacier and the Pizza Centrale
(see below). At a bend in the road (8/4 M.) is the first Cantoniera
(5876'), at the foot of the Winterhom, or Piz Orsino (8747'). The
road enters Canton Ticino, passes the second Cantoniera, and crosses
the Reuss for the last time, near its source in the Lake of Lucendro
(to the right; not visible), by the (3 M.) Rodont Bridge (6621').
To the ■'Lake of Lucendro (6834') a digression of 1/2 hr. only. The
lath diverges below the Bodont Bridge (on the left bank), leads over masses
loAirolo. ST. QOTTHARD. 31, SouU, 1"7
>nit gliden, iDd akirti lU N. bank. To |L« S. risea (he Impwilne ISi
Lucmdn (9T06'), to the W. tbe fuerlnrMrner <936y), Ihe Pii deir l^iona
(SaX)'}, elc. — Tbs pith crosaen the ReusB il iU eiit from Ihe Ink?, and
Rjolna Ihe St. Ootlhurd lOtd on the tap of the p»s.
On the (1 MO Put of Bt. Ootthu'd C6936'J the road pa^ites
between Bevera] until lakes.
peika, exiensWe glulcn, md tboat ihln; small lakes. The pati Is >
Wren v^leji dealilate of view« boanded on the E. by the predipitona Satao
•U S. OBIIario (S23(n, aad as tbe W. bv Ibe rocks ot the FObla (»996') and
Ida niid la PallatU (P331'). Tbe chief peaka of tbe Bl. Oollbard are : E„
Iha Prtta IBaSBT) and PttK Cti-trale (9^; lee belooli W., (be ?ti Ln-
cBtire (9709), ItewAM-Asnt (S^JGfi'), Hi delF Come (8SXK), ud WMUrhor*
ar m Orrino (STIT'); then, more to the W., [h» Le^hhon (lainty), M^ltia-
Sam aO.lBn, Rko Fiidora (lO^aSCJ, ««o Jfcdwdi) (10,190'>, Saliboicn-
Urm (10,08ff), ele.
133/4 M.Albwgo del 8. Gottwrdo (6867'), V4M. to theS. of the
raltninating point, formerly an inn. OppOiiteH tbe*H5lel du Monl
Praia (R., L., & A. 3, D. 4, pens.Str.) adjoined by the Hoipice,
rhere poor ttavellets ire lodged gratnitously. On a rock a little to
Ihe g. is tlie old MarUiary Chnptl.
BxcuBsioHa (enidea for the ahorler alcf nlB at tbe kotel). "Plaaii Cen-
tiale, or THUhcrn (BBKr), nnl dtfflcult (3"/ibrB.; piide 10 fr.). Bevond
Suto ain Ooltardo over delrltua to the eniruuce of the Bella Valtti,
through whtch the route leads. To tbe left JTK, Pnia (see bclun). We
■kirt Ibe alope high ahore Ibe Sella Late r73%') and aacend a anow-fleld
to the hue ot tbe peak, which eonilata of eruobUng bomblende. Tbe
lulljr over aharp rocks to (V>hr,) tbe summit. The ^. peak, 41' higher
than tbe E., la aeparaled from it by a cbaam 20' deep. VIeii isfariur lo
that from the Pitio Centrale.
The_^RbbU_(8998'! SVabra.i guide 7 fr.), a gigantic rock which eom-
Trenols, t> fat
•alley oT the T
4 bn. I guide, II
frnm diffleally. , =---,
LKindrB Alp to the rurrfttr /*'», before reaching wbli
left aod gndnall; mount Ihe IMcaniri} Glodtr li
Pill then over rock in tbe aummlt. Deacenl to
p. 1(6). _ lictihors {10,070'), see p. ilB — Pii
Alp., the Crislallina, Campo Tern
valley unadvisahle, tbere being ni
PAaaia. Ovan tbe OuaiHO Pi
1 eewi, ni
[S.) or the
the St. Ootttaard group from the Farka to the Fibbia, (V.W
108 BouU31, VAL TREMOLA.
of the Finsteraarhom aud AgassizhoTB, and (N.) of the Galenstock and
Dammastock range m far aa the Snstenhdrner and Titlis. Descent to
Bealp across pastares and brushwood.
OvEB THB Lbgki Pass TO THB FcKKA (10 hrs., with guide), fatiguing,
but repaying. From the Hotel we ascend the Valletta di a. QoUardo^
between the FO^a and the Pizzo la Valletta^ to the (2 hrs.) Passo di
Lueendro (8330*), whence the Pit Lueendro (see p. 107) may be acended
(IVs hr.). We then cross to the X. of the Piz (or descend from the Pis)
to the Wyttentoa*ser-Thal and the Cavanna Pass (p. Ill), traverse the Wyt-
tenwatter Olaeier, pass the ffUhner»tock ^ and reach (41/2 hrs.) the Lecki
Pass (95560, lying to the N. of the Leckihom (10,070' i see p. 107^ easily
ascended from the pass in Vs ^i"*)* Descent across the MtUten Olader, past
the Muttenhdmer; then an ascent between the Thitrberg and Blauberg to
the small JSchtedrxe Glacier, and down to the (SVz hrs.) Furka Hotel (p. 111).
From the Hospice to Airolo is a walk or drive of i^j^^ hre.;
in the reverse direction 3 hours. In winter and spring the snow-
drifts on the road-side are often 30-40' high, and sometimes remain
unmelted throughout the summer. Snow-storms and avalanches are
most prevalent on the S. side.
About Y2 ^- ^0 ^^ S.E., below the hospice, the road crosses
that branch of the Ticino which issues from the 8eUa Lake (see
p. 107). By the first house of refuge, the CarUonieta 8. Antonio
(6375'), the road enters the Val Tremola, a dismal valley into
which avalanches often fall, and descends past the Cantoniera
8. Oiuseppe (6010') in numerous windings, avoided by the
old bridle-path. At the third refuge, the Cantoniera di Vol Tremola
(5564'), the Val Tremola ends and the Valle Leventina (p. 102)
begins. *View down to Quinto. To the right opens the ValBedretto
(p. 292), from which the main branch of the Ticino descends.
22M. Airolo (3868'), 8V2 M. from the St. Gotthard Pass, see p. 101.
Travellers going from the St. Gotthard to the Val Bedretto need not
descend to Airolo, but save an hour by leaving the road below the Can-
toniera di Val Tremola (see above), at the angle of the first great bend
in the direction of the Val Bedretto. The path descends to the right, and
at Fontana (p. 292) joins the road leading from Airolo to AirAcqua.
32. The Maderaner Thai.
Gomp. Map, p. 60.
The '^Maderaner Thai, a picturesque valley about 8 M. in length,
enclosed by lofty mountains (N., the Great and Little Windgdlle, the Qreat
and Little Ruehen, and the Scheerhom ; S., the Brittenstock, Weitenalpstocky
Oberalpstock, and Dussiatock), and watered by the turbulent Karstelenbach^
is worthy of a visit. Bridle-path (shaded in the early morning) from
Amsteg to the (3V4 hrs.) H6tel Alpendub (3032" above Amsteg ; horse 12 fr. ;
porter 6, there and back within two days 12 fr.). Beautiful return-route
by the Sta/eln (see below), 6-7 hrs., even practicable for ladies.
Amsteg (1758'), see p. 99. We diverge from the St. Gotthard
road on the left bank of the Karstelenhach and ascend, passing under
the huge railway-bridge, by a good zigzag path to the St. Anions-
KapeUe ; then over gently sloping pastures, shaded with fruit-trees,
to (50 min.) the hamlet of Briaten (2615'; the 'Caplan* sells good
wine). The path descends a little, crosses (5 min.) to the right
MADERANER THAL. 32. RouU. 1 09
bank of the foaming E&rstelenbach, and again ascends. After 7min.
we avoid a bridge to the rigbt, leading to the narrow Etzliihal (see
p. 110), in which a fine waterfall is yisible. After 20min. the path
lecrosses to the left bank and leads to the (5 min.) houses Am Schat-
tigen Berg. It then ascends rapidly to (40 min.) a small cabaret on
the Lungenstutz (3599'), and (8 min.) a cross commanding a fine
view. Passing through wood at places, we next cross the Oriessen-
bach and the Staldenhach to (1/2 hr.) the chalets of Stossi (3904').
Crossing the Karstelenbach at a (5 min.) Saw-mill^ and passing the
houses of Balmwald on the left, in 25 min. more we reach the *H6tel
sum Schweizer Alpenclub (4790'; R., L., & A. 3, D. 4, pens. 8-10
fr. ; Eng, Ch. Serv,')^ adapted for a stay of some time. Fine view
from the terrace on the W. side of the house. Pleasant wood- walks
in the vicinity. The small Butzli-See is 1/2 M* from the hotel.
To the Hiifi Glacier, an interesting walk (1 hr., guide unnecessary).
From the inn a path, at first through wood, ascends the grassy slopes
on the "S. side of the valley (passing opposite the falls of the Brunni-
bcKh, the 8t&uberb(teh J and the LammerbacK)^ crosses the Schleierbach,
the Seidenbachy and the Milehbaehey and ascends to (1 hr.) a rocky height
(51^0'), overlooking the glacier, from which the Karstelenbach issues.
We may now descend to the end of the glacier (guide necessary, 3-4 fr.)
and return to the hotel on the left hank of the Karstelenbach, passing the
waterfalls above mentioned, and crossing the Alp Gufern (3-4 hrs. in all).
Beautiful return -route to Amsteg by the *8tafeln (6-7 hrs.;
guide 8 fr.), the lofty pastures on the N. side of the valley. The
path first leads to the above-mentioned rock overlooking ^e Hiifi
Glacier (1 hr.), and then ascends to the (1 hr.) Alp Gnof (6234 '),
the (3/4 hr.) Stafd-Alp (6289') , and the (1/4 hr.) Alp Bemetsmatt
(6553'; Alpine fare and accommodation), commanding a most ma-
gnificent *yiew of the Hiifi Glacier, Clariden Pass, Diissistock,
Tschingel Glacier, Oberalpstock, Weitenalpstock , Crispalt, Bristen-
stock, Galenstock, Spitzliberg, the Windgallen , and Ruchen. We
then descend rapidly to the pretty Qolzem*8ee (4636') and the
(1 hr.) Oolzem-Alp (4583'; good drinking water), and lastly in zig-
zags through underwood to the hamlet of (I72 li'^-) Briaten and (V2
hr.) Amsteg (to the station Vi ^'' more).
Another fine route, but fatiguing, and 1 hr. longer, is from the Alp
BemeUmatt (see above), to the pastures of Oberhdtem (6389')) and thence
along the slopes of the Kleine Windgalle (p. 110) over rocks and debris
(guide advisable) to the Alp Ait/ dem Rilckm (5753'), in full view of the
Bernese Alps, the Titlis, Maderaner Thai, and Todi, and descending thence
to Amsteg by Waldtl>erg (41260 and Frenschenberg (2676').
ExcDRSioND FROM THE HoTSL Alpbnglub. (Guides: Ambr. and Jot.
Zgniggen; Jos. Maria ^ Melch.^ and Jot. Thretch; Jos. Furger^ A. Baumann,
Jot, Indergand and others *, ordinary excursions, 6 fr. per day.) The ascent
of theDiUuBtock (Pit Oit, 10,703'; 6-7 hrs.; guide 20 fr.) is difficult and
requires experience. The path leads up the Brunnithal to the (2 hrs.)
Waltersjirren Alp (6332'), ascends to the left to the (2 hrs.) ResH- Tschingel
Glacier^ and crosses it *, we then clamber over the precipitous rocks of the
Kleine DUsti (10,280') and ascend the ardte to the (2 brs.) summit. Splendid
view. — The Oberalpstock iPiz Tgietschen^ 10,925'; guide 20 fr.), presents no
serious difficulty to adepts. We either proceed from the Alpenclub Hotel
to the upper part of the (4-^ hrs.) Brtmni Olacier (p. 110), and ascend
the snowy slopes, to the right, to the summit in 2-2V2 hrs. ; or cross from
1 1 0 RouU 32. MADERANER THAL.
Amsteg to the upper part of the Strimthal by the XriUU Pau (dee below),
and ascend across the Strim Glacier, reaching the summit from the S.E.
side (7-8 hrs. , from Sedrun 1 hr. less). — Weitenalpstock (9872*), 7 hrs.,
very toilsome. — Brittenstock (lOjOSy), see p. 99. — Tiz Oambriales (10,58@Oi
4-6 hrs. from the Hiifi Club-hut (see below), and Olaridenstoek. (10,728'; 20 fr.),
5 hrs. from the club-hut, not very difficult for practised climbers. Xammli-
stock (10,787' ; 20 fr.), 5 hrs. from the club-hut, laborious. — The Grosse
Windgftlle or Kalktioek (10,463'), from the Alp Bemetsmatt (see p. 109)
5 hrs., and the GrMse Bcheerhom (10,814'), from the Hufi Club-hut 6 hrs.,
both very difficult, require experience and thorough steadiness (guide
25 fr.). — Grosse Euchen (10,295'), less difficult, but extremely fatiguing
(from the Alp Qnof, 6-7 hrs. ^ guide 20 fr.). — The Kleine Windgftlle (^00'),
from the Alp Oberkdsem (p. 109) by the arSte between the Kleine and
Grosse Windgalle, in S'/z hrs., is not difficult and very attractive.
Passes. To Stachelberg over the ^'Clariden Pass (9843'), 11-12 hrs.
from the Alpenclub Hotel, a grand and most interesting expedition, presents
no serious difficulty to experts with able guides (30-35 fr.). The route
ascends the slopes of the Diissistock (p. 109), on the left bank of the MUJi
Glacier ^ to the (2V2hrs.) Clvb Hut on the finely situated HiiJiAlp (5906'; spend
night). Then a steep ascent for a short distance, over the moraine to the
(40 min.) Hiifi Glacier y and gradually up the Hufifirn and Claridenfim to
the (3-3V2 hrs.) Pan at the S. base of the Claridenstock (10,728'), command-
ing a fine view of the Todi, the Rheinwaldgebirge, etc. We then descend
the Claridenfim, passing the BockUchingel ^ a rock with a hole through
its middle, and the Gemsfayrenttoek (p. 60), and through the dificult
Wallenbach-Sehlucht to the Altenorenalp^ the AuengUter (p. 61), and (5 hrs.)
Stachelberg. Or from the Claridenfim (keeping to the right before reach-
ing the Clariden Pass) we may cross the Hftfl Pass (96460, between
the Hintere Spittalpelistoek (9852*) and the CattehciravU (10,046*), to the
Sandfirn, and then either descend to the left to the Upper Sandalp (p. 61)
or to the right by the Sandgrat to Disentis (p. 351). — Another pass to
Stachelberg (12-13 hrs. from the Alpenclub Hotel) is the Kammiiliicke
(9268'), lying between the Bcheerhom and the Kammli*tock (see above), for
experts not very difficult. Descent over precipitous ice-slopes to the cre-
vassed Griesgletcher, the KamnUi Alp and the Klausen Pate (p. 62).
To Untbbschachen over the Buchkehlen Pass, 8-9 hrs., laborious.
From the Alp Gnof (p. 109) we ascend precipitous grass - slopes , rock,
and glacier to the pass, between the Grosse and KMae Ruehen, and
descend steeply through the glacier-clad Ruchkehle into the Brunnithal and
Schdehenthal (p. 62). — The Scheerhorn-Griggeli Pass (9180') is also toil-
some. From the Hufi Club-hut we mount the Hiifi Glacier and the Bock-
tschingelfim to the pass, between the Scheerhorn and the Kleine Buchen,
and descend to the Obere Lammerhach-Alp and Unterschachen.
To Disentis over the Brunni Pass (8875'), 8 hrs., interesting , but
fatiguing (guide 20 fr.). We ascend the Brunnithal by Rinderbiel and
Waltersfirren (p. 109) to the (2Vs hrs.) Brunni-Alp (6988^, cross the Brvnni
Glacier to the (2 hrs.) pass between the Piz Cavardirae (9506') on the left
and the Piz d"Acletta (9570') on the right, and descend through the Aclettor
Thai to Acletta and (3V2 hrs.) Disentis (p. 851).
From Amstbo over the Kbuzu Pass (7645') to Sbdsun, 8 hrs., fati-
guing. Through the Etzlithal to the pass, 5V2 brs. \ thence down the Jstrim-
Thai to Sedrun (p. 352>, 2V2 hrs.
33. From Goschenen to the Ehone Glacier.
The Farka.
Comp. Map, p. 104.
25 M. DiLiOBMCB in summer daily in 6V2 hrs. (9 fr. 95, coup^ 11 fr.
95 c.) ; from Goschenen to Brieg daily in 12 (Brieg to Goschenen 14) hra.,
with 1/2 hour's halt at Tiefenbach, and dining at the Rhone Glacier (22Vs,
oup^ 27 fr.). — Carrii^e and pair from Goschenen to Brieg 100 fr. One-
REALP. 35. Route. Ill
horse carriage from Andermatt to the Furka Hotel 15 (from Bealp 10),
two-horse carr. 25 fr. ^ to the Rhone Glacier 25 or 40 fr. ; from the Rhone
Qlacier to the Fnrka 10 or 15 fr. Bargains should be made personally
vriib. the drivers i carriages hired at the hotels are 20<>/o dearer.
The *Furka Road, constructed chiefly for military purposes, and form-
ing a convenient route to or from the Grimsel and the Bernese Oberland,
commands striking views of the Rhone Glacier and the neighbouring moun-
tains, and from Realp onwards should be traversed in an open carriage
or on foot.
To (5V2M.)Hb«pcntW (48000, see pp. 104-106. Atthe upper
end of the village the load diverges to the right from the St. Gott-
Aard route, ascends a little, and skirts the level bank of the Realper
Reu88 in the bleak Vrserenthal (p. 105). On each side rise steep
grassy slopes, furrowed by numerous brooks, and overshadowed on
the N. by the jagged pinnacles of the Spitzberge (10,053'). 2^4 M.
Zumdorf (4965'), a group of huts with a chapel. Farther on we
cross the Reuss and the Lochbach, which descends from the Tiefen-
gletscher (see below), and soon reach (I3/4 M.) —
91/2 M. Bealp (5059'; *H6t. des Alpes; 'Beim HoBpiz\ with the
post-station), a poor hamlet at the W. end of the Urseren Valley.
Over the Alpligen-Lilcke to the OSschenen^Alp, see p. 105^ Orsino Pa$$
to the St. OottTmrd^ see p. 107. — From Realp to ViUa in the Val Bedretto
(p. 292) by the Gavanna Pass (8566'), between ih^i Pit Lucendro and BUhner-
stock, 5 hrs., uninteresting.
Beyond Realp the road begins to ascend in long windings,
which the old road to the right, 50 paces beyond the second bridge,
1/2 M. from Realp, avoids. (In descending from the Furka we
quit the new road a few hundred paces beyond the 50th kilometre
stone , and descend by a few steps to the left.) We soon obtain
a fine retrospective view of the broad Urserenthal, with the zigzags
of the Oberalpstrasse in the back-ground (p. 354); on the left are
the Wyttenwasserthal with the glacier of that name, the Ywer-
berhomer, and the Piz Lucendro. On the (3^2 ^0 Ebneten-Alp
(6831') the windings terminate. About 1 M. farther is Tiefenbaoh
(6790'; *Zum Tiefengletacher J D. 3 , pens. 5-6 fr.), where the
diligence halts some time.
By following the slope from this point and crossing the moraine, we
reach (IV4 hr.; guide) the beautiful Tiefengletscher, imbedded between the
Galenstock and the Oletichhom (10,850'), where beautiful crystals (more
than I2V2 tons) were found in 1868 (p. 134). — Over the Ti^ensattel to the
Rhone Qlacier (Orimsel^ Tri/thUtie)^ see p. 122. — Over the WinterlUcke
(diiS") to the OOschenen-Alp (p. 104),6hr8.i descent to the Winter Clacter steep.
The road crosses the Tiefentobel and ascends, running high up
on the N. slope. The old bridle-path (not recommended) follows
the Oarschenthal on the left, far below. On the right lies the
Siedeln-GUtscher J the discharge of which forms a fine waterfall;
above it rise the pinnacles of the Bielenstock (9669'). Before us
rises the Furkahom (p. 112). The (3 M.) —
171/2 M. Furka (7992'; *B6t. de la Furca, R., L., & A. 31/2-4,
lunch 3, D. 5 fr.) is a saddle between the Muttenhorner on the
left and the Furkahorner on the right, descending abruptly on
112 Route 33, FURKA.
both Bides. Magnificent view of the Bernese Alps with the im-
posing Finsteraarhorn and to the left of it the Oberaarhom,
Wallisei Fiescherhoiner , Siedelhorn, and Wannehorn, and to
the right the Agasslzhorn and Schreckhdmer. From the road,
about 3/4 M. farther on, we obtain a view of the Upper Yalais and
its Alps (Mischabelhorner, Matterhorn, Weisshom, etc.).
ExcDKSioNS. ^Furkahom (9935'^ 2V2 hrs.; guide 5 fr.), to the K. of the
pass \ ascent over grass, detritus, and patches of snow ; fatiguing, but very-
interesting. Admirable panorama of the Alps of Bern and Valais, the
Oalenstock, St. Gotthard group, etc. Kot advisable to descend direct to
the Rhone Glacier. — *Mattenhom (10,180' j 3 hrs. ; guide 10 fr.), S. of
the Furka, a very fine point, not difficult.
Galenstoek (11,805'; 5 hrs.^ guide 15 fr.), for adepts only, with an able
guide, axe, and rope. From the Furka to the (3/4 hr.) Rhone Glacier (see
below), skirt its left margin, climb a steep snowy slope to the right,
follow a difficult ardte of rock, and lastly mount very steep n^v^ to the
overhanging snowy summit (caution required). View exceedingly grand.
From the Furka over the Lecki Paes to the St. Gotthard Bodice (10 brs.,
with guide), see p. 108; over the Trifilimmi to the Tri/thiltte^ see p. i22.
To THE Gbimsel H08PIGK (p. 168), 5 hrs. (guide 10 fr. ; Alpenstock and
nailed boots requisite). Walkers may descend from the Furka by a good
path, diverging to the right from the road V2 M. from the inn, to the up-
per part of the Rhone Glacier in */a hr., cross it above the ice-fall in 172
hr., and go over the (S/4 hr.) Ntgeli's Orfttli (8470'; ^View) to the (2 hrs.)
Hospice. This route is less to be recommended in the reverse direction.
The road follows the slope to the right to the (I74 M.) Oalen-
hutten (7900') and descends to the left in long zigzags, high
above the huge "Hhone 01aeier(p.291), affording admirable views
of its fantastic ice-masses. (At the second bend of the road is the
small Hotel Belvedere. Path thence in Y4 hr. , over loose stones,
keeping to the left, to a point commanding the upper part of the
. glacier.) In the valley we cross the Muttbach (the discharge of
the Oratschlucht'Gletschery The road is joined here on the left by
the steep old bridle-path from the Furka. It then gradually
descends the slope of the Langisgrat, and again describes several
long bends, which the old bridle-path, to the right, cuts off. Cross-
ing the infant RhonCy we now reach the (61/4 M.) —
25 M. Rhone Glacier Hotel, in the 'Oletsch' (5750'; p. 291).
From the Rhone Glacier to Brieg, see p. 276; over Uie Grinuel to
Meiringen, see B. 52.
34. From Lucerne to Altdorf by Stans and
Engelberg. The SnrSnen Pass.
Camp. Mapf p. 74.
Steamboat from Lucerne to Stansstad 4 times dailv in 40 min., fare
ifr. 40 or 80c. (seep. 116). — Diligence from Stansstad to (14 M.) Engel-
berg twice daily in SVs hrs. ; fare 4fr. 60, coup^ 6fr. 40 c. (to Stans 6 times
daily in 20 min. ; fare 60c.) ^ one-horse carriage 15, two-horse 25 £r. — Walk-
ers may dismiss their vehicle at Grafenort (9 M. from Stansstad, a drive
of l*/4 hr., one-horse carr. 10, two-horse 16 fr.), beyond which the road is
so steep that travellers usually alight and walk. (One-horse carr. from
Beekenried to Engelberg, the route for travellers from the St. Gotthard,
15-18, two-horse 25-30 fr.j see p. 76.) — From Engelberg to Altdorf over
the Sur^nen Pass, rather fatiguing (bridle-path, 8V2 hrs.*, guide, 14 fr..
STANS. 34. Route. 113
annecessary in line weather; travellers from Altdorf need a guide to
the top of the paes only, 8fr.).
To StatMstad, see p. 117. The road leads round the S. base of
the Biirgenstock (p. 117), through orchards and pastures.
2 M. Staxu, or Stan% (1510'; pop. 2210; Krone, B. 1, B. 1 fr. ;
Engel; Rosslt), the capital of Nidwalden, the E. half of Canton
Unterwalden , lies in the midst of a vast orchard, on which,
however, from 11th Nov. to 2nd Febr. the sun shines for one
hour only in the morning, between the Hohe Brisen (7894') and
the Stanserhom (see below). Adolning the handsome Pariah
Church is the * Monument of Arnold von Winkelried (p. 19), a fine
group In marble by ScUoth. A tablet by the Burial Chapel in the
churchyard, on the N. side of the church, commemorates the mas-
sacre perpetrated here in 1798 by the French, who were exasper-
ated by the obstinate resistance they met with. The Town Hall
contains portraits of all the mayors from the year 1521 ; below them
is a collection of Unterwalden flags; also two French banners of
1798 J a picture by the blind artist Wiirsch, who perished in 1798;
another by Yolmar, representing Brother Klaus taking leave of his
family (p. 118). In the Araenal is shown Arnold von Winkelried's coat
of mail. Fine view from the Knieri, above the Capuchin Monastery.
The Stanser Horn (6230^; *View) is ascended from Stans by the Blumatt-
alp, or from Kerns (p. 117) by Wys»ei*len (3i/s-4 hrs. ; guide not indispens-
able). — The B«oehaer Horn (5934'; SVz hrs.), ascended by Jfieder-Rieken-
htieh (see below), is another interesting point, commanding a superb view
of the Lake of Lucerne from Lucerne to Brunnen, the district of Schwya,
and the Engelberg valley from Stans to Orafenort.
The road to (12 M.) Engelberg traverses the vaUey of the
Engelberger Aa , between the Stanser Horn on the right and the
Bnochser Horn on the left. In the background rises the snow-clad
Titlis. Near (2^4 M.) Thalwyl, or Dcdlenwyl, we cross the Aa. On
a mound of detritus at the mouth of the Steinbojch, to the right,
stands the church of Dallenwyl.
A good bridle-path, diverging to the left, ascends to (4V2 H.) the
finely •> situated health-resort of Nieder-Kiokenbach (SSSO*; ^'Kurhaits turn
Engel , pens. 6-6 fr.). From this point the interesting ascent of the Stein*
alp-Briaen C7891'; guide not indispensable to adepts) may be made in 3^/4
hrs. via the Ahort^AlpKoA the Steinalp. Another attractive ascent is that
of the '^Sehwalmis (7373'; QVs-S'A hrs. ; guide unnecessary), which leads by
the Ahom-Alp, the B&rfalle (with a cross), and the BUhlalpe^ and thence
up the E. arlte. An interesting pass (4V2 hrs. with guide) leads from
Ifieder-Bickenbach by the BUhla^ and the gap (6924') between the Schwal*
mis and the Seh3mberg, descending by the Bolgen^Alp to 8t, Jakob in the
Isenthal (p. 80).
The next places aTe(2M.) Wolfenschiessen (ilO^ ' \ Eintracht;
Kreuz) and (^/^M.") Orafenort (ISSG*), consisting of a chapel, an
*Inn (good wine), and a farm of the Abbey of Engelberg. About
V2 ^* beyond Orafenort the road ascends through beautiful wood.
To the right, far below, flows the brawling Aa. Leaving the wood,
we pass (21/2 M.) the small auberge *Im Griinen Wald*, below
which, in the valley to the right, a brook descending from the
Triibsee (p. 121) falls into the Aa. After another slight ascent,
Babdekbb, Switzerland. 12th Edition. 8
114 ^ouU34. ENGELBERG. From Lucerne
we ttirn to the left, and suddenly obtain a view of the *Engel-
herger Thcd^ a green Alpine valley, 5 M. long and 1 M. broad,
bounded on three sides by lofty, snow-clad mountains. The Titlis
with its ice-mantle stands forth majestically, and to the left rise
the rocky pinnacles of the Oreat And Little 8pannort(j^. 115); in the
foreground is the Hahnenberg or Engelberg (8566'). Then (2 M.) —
14 M. Engelberg. — ^Hotel Somkenbebo, finely situated, B., L.,
«fe A. 4-5, D. 4V2i S. 3, pens. 8V2-II fr.j •Hotel Titlis, E., L., & A.
SVzj D- 4, pens. 7-10 fr.; •Enqei, pens. oV«-7fr. , R. separated only by
board partitions; apartments at Dr. Oatitunfs^ adjacent, but witliout
board; •Kurhaus & Psns. Mdlles, 6-9 f r. ; "^Faau Db. Mullbb's Pension,
adjacent; •Hot. Engelbebg; "^Hot. des Alpes, unpretending, pens. 5 fr.,
B. extra; •Pens. Hess. Rooms at several otber houses; usual charges,
B. IV2, B. 1, D. 2 fr.; whey also procurable. Beer at Wa9ser^t. — English
Church in the grounds of the Hotel Titlis. — Guides: Karl and Eugen Hess ;
Jos. Kuster. father and son ; Leodegar Feierabend ; Jos. and Placidus Hess ;
Jos. and Mich. Amvhein; Jos. Imf anger.
Engelberg (SSliQ, loftily and prettily situated, and sheltered
from the N., is a favourite health-resort, particularly for nervous
patients. At the upper end of the village rises the handsome Bene-
dictine Abbey of the name, founded in 1121, named Mons Angelo-
rum by Pope Calixtus XI., and rebuilt after a fire in 1729.
The •Chubch contains modem pictures by Deschwanden^ Kaiser^ and
WUrsch (p. 113). High altar-piece, an Assumption by J^egler^ 1734. In the
chapter-house two transparent pictures by Kaiser, the Conception and the
Nativity. The Libbabt (30,000 vols., 210 HSS.), which was pillaged by
the French in 1798, contains a good relief of the Engelberg Valley. Per-
mission to visit the monastery must be obtained from the abbot, to whom
a visiting-card is sent with a request that he will fix the hour. — The
School connected with the abbey is well attended. The Fabh Buildings,
with the labourers' dwellings, are very extensive, and in the cheese-ma-
gazine several thousand cheeses are frequently stored at one time. The
revenues of the abbey, which formerly exercised sovereign rights over
the surrounding district, were considerably reduced by the French in 1798.
Opposite the Abbey, to the S., on the left bank of the Aa, are
pleasant shady walks, which are reached in 10 minutes.
Excursions. •Oberschwand (4300^; Inn), affording a delightful survey
of the valley and the neighbouring mountains, is reached by a path
ascending gradually by Untersehwtsnd in IVs hr., or by a steep path ascend-
ing direct in 1 hr. — The Fliihmatt (1365')) 1 hr. to the N., commands a
magnificent view of the Titlis. — Pleasant walk (way to the Surenen Pass,
see p. 115), passing the church on the -left, to the C/4 hr.) •TAtechbachfall,
which descends from the Hahnenberg. (To the left of this path is the End
der Welt, a rocky basin at the head of the Horiristhal. It may be reached
in V2 br. : 10 min. from the church, and beyond the bridge over the Horbis-
bach, the path ascends to the left by the caf^ ^Zur neuen Heimat\) Beyond
the Tatschbach we may cross the rUrrenbaeh, which also forms several
falls, and visit the (1/2 hr.) dairy-farm of Harrenriiti (3897'; horse there and
back 5 fr.), the property of the Abbey^ affording a survey of the Firn-
alpeli and Grassen glaciers. — The Arnitobel, a gorge with a waterfall,
2V4 M. to the W., a pleasant and shady walk; thence to the right to the
(IV2 hr.) Amialp (5267'), with a good view of the Engelberger Rothstock
and Uri-Rothstock. — Fiirrenalp (6073'; 2V2 hrs.); the path ascends to the
left before reaching the Tatschbachfall , and then skirts the slope above
(beautiful view of the Titlis).
AscBNTS. The Rigithalttock (8614'; 41/2 hrs.; guide 9 fr.). the last part
difficult, fine panorama; the Oeissberg (8901' j 5 hrs.; guide 10 fr.), rather
wr
SURENEK-FASS. 34. Soule. 115 | i
leTiddarfaM (7713' i 4
■°'" °-7brs.i iiude 12 fj
. - Tbc Hunihorn ,_ . ,_._ _
io e-7 hrg (enide IS fr.) b; cToislng the ilopf or tbe Scliatibaiid. In front
of tbE Hninuck. — Sncilbsrc-KothitHk (9252'; A bm.i guide 9 fr.). inlcies-
th°^(3?i b"s.) airtVr oatlfanrlih^bil ^Deaifnot'f.r fr^m the ffH(.«lJ^
oletiehir; tbence b«low the XaNM'^'' (P- 80) to tbe top in I'l^ hr. mure.
•ITri-BotlutHk OeaOO; SVi tan.; (uide 17, witb deeceni Io Iseottitl
22 fr.), very intereatlDg, From tbe club but above tbe Hankeoalp (set
above) to tbe(IV.br.)B»p {8ST8') on the S. of lie Engelberg-Rofhstock;
Sdtloiittoci &X&)i theu a ntber ateep '^Seecent Io (be IMmlUalpJirB;
up the KleinlhalJUit to the fi'/i bra.) top (comp. p. 80).' n , an ai j-
The Ctosu-BpuBOTt (10,616') i> ueendcd from (be ^>aBner( Clvb-hul '
(6500'), 4 liM. from Engelberg, by tbe SMomirf-mcke (md the Olallet- I
Jim, In 4YibrB, 1 interesling, Ihoufih toilsome ((aids S6 fr.)- — Klein- ,1
Bpknnort (10,387 i 6-7 hrs.; guide SSfc); rrom <be Spumort Hnl by tbe ■
SpartnorljiKh (see below); difHoult elitnhing.
Tbe °TitUj (10,63I'i T-S hn.; guide 12 fr.) ig most Interesting, tbnugb )
trying. It !■ adviiable to go on the previous evening to the OStre Trabsii- -
Alp (p. 121; I'lt bra.-, hoTM 10^.), in order not to b&ve the steen |
PfafftarKtnd (p. 121) to uc«id ml ituiiu. From this point it ii uauBl ''
Id sUrt at 2 a.m., in order tb«l on the reluTn-route Itie snow may be ■
traversed before tbe beat of tbe da;. From the (op of (he Pfaffenwand ; \
(he path ucendB over inrf ind dAirig (o Iha (2hrs.) .Stand (E033'), where I
ft abort real ii talten; i( then mounts a steep slaty incline in liguga, '
over rock and detritui, to the (•/< br.) RoUitfg (9030^, where the glacier ■ > .
if ceached. We ascend the glacier, at first gradually, then more rapidly I ' '
(Blep-cuttlng sometime! necessary), and if tbe snnw is in good conditinn ; fl
vre reach tbe (l'/s-3 brs.) summit, called tbe yollm, without material dif- ' |
ficoKy. The vieo, highly picturesque and Imposing, embraces tbe entire ■ 'I
Alpine cbain from Savoy t« tlie Tyrol, N. SwiUerland, and S. Germanr. Tbe J Ii
ascent of the Tillis, though requiring perseverance, is perhaps tbe least diffi.
cult of glacier-excursions. Descent to the Jochpasa (EngsUenalp). see p. 121.
Passes. From Engelberg over the Jachpaii to Mciringm (guide, un-
Ibe Mrlidlliol (guide to Sarnen 13 tr.}. see p. 118; over (he Solhgraili tu
the Jitnaal (guide 17 fr.) see p. 80.
FnoB KHOttaaEO To EnBivtLD (p. 98) over tbe Bohlosaberg-tiicke
(8635'^ 10 brs.i guide 23 fr.), a flne route, but faliBuing. By spending a
night in a,e Spannorl Bui (seeabcive; 2 brs. below the pass) mountaineers
ml} combine the ascent of the Otiiis- aparmor! (see above) with Ihis
pass. — To Erstfeld across the Spanner^oeh (%1Q'. 10-11 brs.; guide 25
fr.), between the Gross and tbe Eleiu-Spanuort, toilsome.
To Wasbb over tbe Oruaen Faaa iBdrtifnAe, S91T1, 10 bra., difllcult
(guide to Meien 25 (r.).— To ths Stkikalp over the Wendanjoeh (3694'),
10-11 brs., faHguiuE, but inleiesting (guide ^ fr.).
The lonte to the SuieoeD P&99 leads past the Tatechbschfall to ^
[lV4hr.)H«n-(nri(Ii(p. HI), folbivs the right bank of the Aa to H
(25 mill.) the froatier of Cwton XJri by the NUdtt-SuTtTven Alp ||
(^4134'), and ascends Io the CVa he.) S'3/feH (■*652'), Afterasteep m
asfient to the (50 mln.) 5liereii/oJi (best viewed from below), we f jk
cross (5 min.) the biook, and in 40 min. more lecioss it to the j )1
Blaekeaolf (5833'), vith its chapel. The path then ascends giad- ' J
ually ovet snow, vhich melta in July, to the (I'/ibr.) pass of the l| {|
Sarenen-Eok ilh&l^, on the S. side of the Blackautack (95370- j 11
The Titlis becomes grander as we ascend, and we observe a ■ "
116 BouU35. BRtJNIG ROUTE.
long range of peaks and glaciers, particularly the Klein- and Gross-
Spannort and the Schlossberg, extending as far as the Sur^nen. On
the other side we survey the mountains enclosing the Schachenthal,
on the opposite side of the Reuss, the Wlndgalle being most con-
spicuous. On the E. side of the Surenen the snow , which never
entirely melts, is crossed in 74^^- ^^ ^^^ height of summer. Then a
steep descent to the(l hr.) Waldnaeht-Alp (4754'), which is visible
from the height in the long valley below. At a stone bridge (1/4 hr.)
the road divides. The very steep path in a straight direction leads
to (I3/4 hr.) Altdorf (p. 97); that to the right, crossing the
bridge, to (2 hrs.) Eratfeld (p. 98). By the latter we reach the
(5 min.) Boekitobel , with the picturesque falls of the Waldnacht-
bach (beyond which the guide may be dismissed), descend through
wood into the valley, traverse the pastures to the village of Erstfeldj
and cross the Reuss to the station on the St. Gotthard line (p. 98).
35. From Lucerne over the Briinig to Brienz
(and Meiringen).
Comp. Maps, pp. 74, 140,
36^2 M. Steamboat from Lucerne to (11 M.) Alpnach-Oestad 4 times
daily in 1-1 V4 lir- j Diliqewce from Alpnach-Gestad to (SSVs M.) Brieng
3 times daily in 6 hrs. ; to (24 H.) Afeiringen once daily in 6 hrs. (chang-
ing carriages at Lungem). From Brienz by steamboat, corresponding
with the diligence, to Bdnigen ( Interlaken) , so that Interlakcn may be
reached from Zurich in one day. Tickets to Interlaken are obtained at
the post-office (branch • office next door to the Engl. Hof) at Lucerne
(where the coup^ may be secured) , or on board the steamers : from
Lucerne to Brienz 10 fr. 90 c. , coup^ 12 fr. 90 c. 5 to Interlaken 13 fr. 85,
coup^ 16 fr. 40 c. ; from Alpnach-Gestad to Brienz 8Va fr- , coup6 lOVzfr. ;
to Meiringen 8 fr., coup^ 9 fr. 90 c. — From Alpnach-Gestad to Viftnau
(for the Bigi) a through-ticket, via Lucerne, costs 1 fr. less than hooking
to Lucerne and thence to Vitznau. — Those who have not secured the
coup^, should try to obtain seats in an open supplementary carriage (^Bei-
wagen'), as the *int4rieur' of the diligence affords little view.
Carbiages. With two horses, from Lucerne to Brienz or Meiringen
45-50, to Interlaken 60-70 fr. — From Alpnach-Oestad to Lungern one-horse
15, two-horse 25 fr.; to Brienz or Meiringen 25 or 40 fr.-, the latter, for 4-5
persons, pleasanter and not dearer than the diligence. It is advisable
always to start an hour or two in advance of tlie diligence, so as to avoid
the dust raised by the latter.
The Road feom LncEKNE to Alpnach (12 M.) runs inland. At first
it follows the rapid Kriensbach, and then leads by Hono (i&Id^), with its
prettily situated church , to Winktl (^Stern , plain) , on a bay of the Lake
of Lucerne (p. 117), and along the bank of the lake to Hergiswyl (p. 117).
It next skirts the Lopper , close by the lake, and at the AcherhrUcke
(p. 117) reaches the Lake of Alpnach, on the K.W. bank of which it leads
to Alpnach-Oestad (117).
Railway from Lucerne across the Briinig to Brienz under con-
struction.
Beyond the central point of the cruciform lake (p. 74), the steamer
passes the country-seat of Trihachen, the prettily situated Pension
Stutz, the St. Niklauscapelle^ and the country-house of Kdsten-
haum or Kastanienbaum , and enters the bay of Stansstad. To
e left rises the Biirgenstock, with its precipitous N. slopes
ALPNACH. 35. Route. 117
(p. 117J. To the right the piomontaiy o! Spiiitnegg extejiis dr iBto
the lake, tocming a bay which aitends to the K. to Wmktl (p. 116).
Tbe steamer iteeu to the S.W. to Hergiivyl CHdt.-Petu. Botili,
modeiate, pens, 4-7 fi.), at the loot of PilUaa (p. 88), and then
to the E. to StaiiHtad (1444' ; BStel Winktlrled ; Fnltnhof; EonU :
Sehtuuei), the 'harbour of Stans'. The square pinnacled SchnilC'
Thurm was erected by the Swiss in 1308 to vindicate their re-
cently acquired independence.
From Staca^tad a good road^ divergtng lo IL« left froDD Uke Slaaa road
(p. 113j, leada, chiefly tbrougb pUwanl wood, lo (1 M.; one-Lorse carr.
S, two-horse U fr.> the "Hitel Bilrjonitock (SSSS'i R. from 4, B. I'/j, D.
4, pens. 8Vrl8V>fr.i residBnt phyiician), a tayqnrite bsallh-rwOrl, with
eitensive and ihady gronnda. The holel sod several pointt neat it com-
maBd baaailtul views. Thns to ('/a hr.) Sonesrn, a good path. Asleep
the HamnitUchiiiimd (3T31'), the snmmU of the Bilrgenstock, which descends
abrnptlT In (he Lake of Lueerae : slrtking view of the greater part of lbs
lake, of the lakes of Bamen, Sempach, Baldegg. Hallwyl, and ^ag, of the
Bigi, Pilatiu, Hjtkeo. -Weleaemtein, and of the Alps of Olanti and Unler-
The Lopper, the E. spur of Pilatus (see p. 116), extends far
into the lake. The brook opposite, which falls into the lake at Stans-
Btad, has farther narrowed the channel between the Lake of Lucerne
and the Lkke of Alpnooli with its alluvial deposits, and the strait
1b now crossed by an embankment and a bridge (Acherbrucke).
which is opened for the passage of steamers. Within the Bay of
Alpnach rises Che Eotberg (2214' ,* Sot, Son, akin to Bocht, Tock),
separated from the Platt&trg by the Boalnch, a narrow ravine, in
which the Mehlbaeh forms several falls. Portland Cement factor}'.
On the lake la situated ■Pens. BldttUr (5 fr.), with a anlphur-
spring and pleasant grounds. On the slope of the Rozberg, '/l ^'■
to the E., is the 'Penj. Bos^bng , prettily sitnated , and 10 min.
beyond it the Pens. Burji Botberg.
Walk raou aT*K«BT»D lo SiceaaLK. The path skirts the lake tor a
aboct war, enters the Koiloch, and at Alhcia ('tna), 2 U. from Staus-
atad, where there is a chapel is memory of Winkelried [pp. 19. liS), Joini
the Slam and Samen Road (do diligence). This road leads past tbe 1^~.
baae of the ;8M«(trAorn (p. 110), and by AoAren to(2 M.) SI. /i>Io», avillage
with an old church, then across the MMbacA, Md through the Siriaold
to (2V) M.) Kims CKrone ; Hirsch ; Kilseli), a plessant village wilh a prelly
chorch, and (2 M.) Sarnm. ~ Or we may go direct from Kerns lo (3 M.)
cJ^S«°heentr'l^«'of'theM'e]chl"al(s^e'p°lI8)"" ""* "'""''
Alpmuili-OMtftd (1443'; *mttl J'ilalue or Poi(, neat the lake,
B. 2'/j, B. 1'/, fr.; •Bon«; S(«rn) is the harbour for (IVaM.)Alp-
lUMh (1529'j Krone,' Sonne), The church of Alpnach with its slen-
der eptre was erected with the proceeds of the sale of timber from
the forests of Pllatas, which were rendered accessible by a wooden
elide, 8 M. long, and were cut down in 1811-19. — Ascent of Pita-
tm and Pltatus Rnilwiay. see p. 8S,
The road to (3 M.) Samen follows the left bank of tlie -la, which
descends from the Lake of Sarnen. Near Alpnach and Kdgistcyl
(Post), with its large parquet'factory. the Kteint and the Oro»e
118 Route 35, MELCHTHAL. From Lucerne
Schlierenhaek, and near Sarnen the Aa, are crossed by covered
wooden bridges. To the left rise the Stanserhom (p. 113) and the
chain of the Arvigrat (6917Q, and on the right the slopes df Pilatus.
41/2 M. (from Alpnach-Gestod) Samen (1630'; pop. 4039;
*Obwcddner Hof ; Samer Hofi *AdLer ; Pott; Monger, moderate;
Hindi, well spoken of ; Peru. Landenberg, see below ; Pens. Nieder-
herger on the *Boll*, Vi^'* ^ the£.), the capital of Obwalden, the W.
part of Canton Unterwalden, with its .nunnery and Capuchin mona-
stery, lies on the Samer Aa. The Raihhaua contains portraits of all
the magistrates of Obwalden from the year 1381 to 1824, and one of
St. Nikolans von der Fliie (see below). The church, on a hill, the
cantonal hospital, and the arsenal on the Landenberg (1667' ; fine
view ; pension, see above), are conspicuous buildings.
At the head of the Schlieren- Thai, SVa hrs. W. of Sarnen, lies the
sequestered '^Schwendi-Kaltbad (4737'), with a chalybeate spring, and whey-
cure. The road ascends the W. slope of the Schwendiberg to (1 hr.) Stal-
den (2614'^ refreshments at the cure's), whence a bridle-path crosses the
meadows of Schwdndi and continues, often through wood, to the (21/2 hrs.)
Kaltbad. Thence to the top of the Feuersiein (6697') 2V2 hrs. 5 to the
Schimberger Body 2 hrs., see p. 124.
To the S.E. of Samen opens the Kalehtlial, a romantic valley, 12 M. in
length, studded with numerous chalets. At the upper end is the Melehsee
(see below), whose waters are lost in a cleft of the rock , and 3 M. below
reappear as the Melchaa. At the entrance of the valley is St. Niklauun
(27o20) or 8t. Klaus, the first Christian church erected in this district. The
ancient tower adjoining it is locally known as Beidenthurm (heathens^
tower). Nearly opposite, 3 M. from Samen, is the Ran/t ('brow of the
mountain^), formerly a barren wilderness, with the hermitage of St. Niko-
LAUs voN DEK Fl^b, who Is Said to have lived here for twenty years
without other food than the sacramental elements, of which he partook
monthly. After their victory over Charles the Bold of Burgundy in
14^, the confederates assembled at Stans disagreed about the division
of the spoil, but through the intervention of the venerable hermit the dis-
pute was soon amicably settled. After his death (1487) he was canonised.
His memory is still revered by the people, and there is scarcely a hut in
the Forest Cantons that does not possess a portrait of Brother Klaus.
A road (diligence to Melchthal daily in 2 hrs.) leads by St. Mklausen
to the (7 H.) village of Melchthal (2933' \ good quarters at the curb's) and
the (2 M.) Balmmatt (3150*), at the foot of the precipitous Ramisjluh; bridle^
path thence to the Melchsee, 2V2hr8. (see below). From Melchthal a roughish
path crosses the Storegg (StICX) to Engelberg (p. 114) in 4Vs hrs. ; another,
more interesting, leads thither in 5-6 hrs. over the Juchli (712(y). The
NUnalphorn (Juchlistock, 7830' ; fine view of the litlis and the Bernese
Alps) may be ascended in 1 hr. from the Juchli. View still finer from
the Hutstoek (8790'), reached by good climbers from the Juchli in 2 hrs.
(comp. p. 116). — From the Melchsee (6427'-, *H6t. Frutt, unpretending,
pens. 8 fr.) an easy pats crosses the Tannenalp (6503') la l*/4 hr. to the
Engstlen-Alp (S. 120); another, rather rough, leads over the Laubergrat
(7874') to (4V2 hrs.) Meirmgen (p. 162). — The Hohenstollen, etc., see p. 163.
The road crosses the Melchaa, which has been conducted
into the Samer See (15520, ^ ^^^^ ^ ^* ^^^S' ^^^ 1-1 V4M. broad,
well stocked with flsh. The Yalley of Sarnen is pleasing, though
without pretension to Alpine grandeur.
At (I3/4 M.) Saohseln (1598'; *Kreu%i Engel, JRostli; Lowe'),
a thriving village on the E. bank of the lake, is a large church,
erected in 1663, containing the bones of St. Nikolaus and other relics.
toBrienz. BRUNIG PASS. 35. RouU. 119
The vUlageof r3V2M.)C^i«wil(1800'; Krone; Rudenzjwas partly
destioyed in 1629 by inundations of the Lauibach. A lake was
thus formed, and 130 years later was drained into the Lake of
Sarnen. Fine view from the churchyard. On the slope to the left
are the relics of a chateau of the Rudent family.
The Brienzer Rothhom (p. 164) may be ascended from Giswil in 6 hrs. \
path for tbe first 3 hrs. good, afterwards steep and disagreeable.
We now ascend the Kaistrstuhl (2306'), and at (2^4 M.) BurgUn
(2306') reach the Lake of Lnngem (2162'). To the S. the three
peaks of the Wetterhom become visible. We next reach (3 M.) —
15 M. Lungem (2293'; Lowe, D. 31/2-^ fr.; H6t. Brunig; Bar:
all belonging to the same landlord), a large village situated in a
basin at the foot of the Brunig, ^/z M. from the S. end of the lake,
half of which was drained into the Sarner See in 1836. — The Dun-
delshach forms a picturesque fall on the hill-side to the W.
The road (short-cut to the left) ascends In long windings through
wood , enters Canton Bern , and reaches (3^2 ^0 the Brftnig
Pass (3396'), beyond which are the H6t. Brunigkulm and the
*H6t. du Brunig (cheap wood-carving sold by Casp. Brog).
Fine prospect from the W»ler Alp (4866'), iVs hr. N.W. of the Brunig;
more extensive from the Wylerhom (6580*), 3 hrs. from the pass.
The road to (5^2 M.) Meiringen (p. 162) diverges to the left,
3/4 M. beyond the pass, and leads through the hamlet of Briinigen.
(A short-cut descends to the left near the Brunig Inn.) The
pleasant road to Brienz (7 M.) winds down the hill , occasionally
under overhanging rocks. Opposite us tower the Engelhorner
(p. 161). To the left we overlook the valley of Meiringen as far as
the Kirchet (p. 166); at the foot of the mountains to the S. is th&
lower fall of the Reichenbach (p. 162) ; opposite is the fall of the
Oltschibach (p. 163); below us flows the Aare, and to the right
is part of the Lake of Brienz. The road (short-cuts) descends by
Brienzwyler (Bar), a village among pastures and orchards, to the
Bridge of Brienzwyler over the Aare (1890' ; H6t. Balmhof), where
it joins the Meiringen and Brienz road. From this point to (372^0 —
251/2 M. Brienz, see p. 163.
36. From Meiringen to Engelberg. Joch Pass.
Comp. Maps-, pp. 96, 114.
93/4 hrs. : Getithalalp 2 (viS, Im-Hof 3), Engstlen-Alp 3, Joch i>/2, Triib-
see V27 Engelberg IV2 hrs. — Horse from Im-Hof to Engelberg 15, guide
8 fr. — If the traveller can devote two days to this interesting journey
(still more attractive in the reverse direction), he should sleep on the
Engstlen-Alp, where an afternoon may be pleasantly spent.
Meiringen , see p. 162. — The shortest route to the Genthal-
alp and the £ngstlen Alp leads across the Dorfbach , passes the
houses of Stein and Sand, and ascends the steep slopes of the Has-
liberg, on the right bank of the Aare. Fine views of the Haslithal
and Urbachthal and of the Wetterhorner , etc. The path (recently
much improved and now quite safe even for those subject to diz-
120 Route 36. ENGSTLEN-ALP.
ziuess) leads by the Hundichiipfi to the chalets of (2 hrs.) Lauenen
(3802'), where the Cheuthftlalp begins.
The Bridle-Path (1 hr. longer) leads by (1^4 hr.) Im-Hof (p. 166). Tlience
we either follow the Suaten route (p. 121) to the (*/4 hr.) foundry in the
Milhlethal; then, beyond the (*/4 hr.) bridge over the GenthaJwtuter^ ascend
to the left through wood to the (1 hr.) Oenthalalp (see above). Or we may
diverge to the left from the Susten route at Wjfler^ 20 min. from Im-Hof,
cross the Oadmenbach, turn to the left again after 6 min., and ascend rapidly
through pastures and wood to the (1 hr.) chalets of Lauenen (see above).
The path soon approaches the Oenthalbachj and follows Its right
bank. On the (1/4 hr.) Leimboden (3920') our path is joined on the
right by that from Milhlethal above mentioned (small auberge on the
left bank). We now gradually ascend the monotonous Genthal. Be-
hind us rise the Wetterhorner and the Hangend-Gletscherhorn at the
end of the Urbachthal (p. 166). In 20 min. we pass the Oenthalhiitten
(^3993'), on the left bank of the brook, and after a slight ascent
reach (1 hr.) the Schwar&waldhuUen (4596'; auberge).
The valley now becomes more interesting. From the precipices
of the Oadmer Fliiht (9750') on the right, whioh become grander
as we proceed, falls a series of cascades, varying in volume ac-
cording to the state of the melting snow, and we at last come
to eight of these close together (AchtdsdsabaeheJ. The Engstlen-
bachj as the brook is named above this point, also forms several
considerable falls. The path crosses the stream and ascends, often
steeply, through beautiful wood, to the (172^^0 *Sngstlen-Alp
(6033'; *Jnn, R.,L, &A. 31/4, D.4, pens.6fr.), a beautiful pasture,
with fine old pines and 'Alpine cedars'. (Excellent water, tem-
perature 40-42° Fahr.) *View, totheS.W., of the majestic Wetter-
horn; to the left the Schreckhorner; to the right the Bliimlisalp; to
to the E. the Wendenstocke and the Titlis. — The Wunderhrunnen
('miraculous spring'), near the inn, is an intermittent spring which
only flows in wet weather and in spring during the melting of the
snow, usually about noon.
Excursions. Walk to Melciisee-Frctt (2 hrs.; guide unnecessary).
From the inn we walk to the l^.W. to the waterfall and ascend rapidly
on the right side, soon obtaining a splendid view of the Bernese Alps
(among which the Finsteraarhorn comes in view to the left of the
Schreckhorner). At the top we round the grassy Spicherjluh (6690*), pass
a small lake, and reach the (1 hr.) TatMeualfi^ (650S'), a large Alp with
numerous chalets. We next traverse beautiful level pastures, pass two
other small lakes , and reach the (1 hr.) Hdfel Meleheee- Fruit (6472') ; see
f. 118. — Ascent of the Ertegg (likff) from the Tannenalp, or from Frutt
hr., easy and repaying. The Mohentiollen (815(y), a magnificent point,
but somewhat fatiguing, takes 2 hrs. from Frutt (comp. p. 163).
Ascents. Schafberg (OwartUr; 7950*; 2 hrs.) not difllcult; Qrautlock
(8737' ; 21/2-3 hrs. 5 with guide), fatiguing ; WildgeUsUrg (8904' ; 3 hrs. ; with
guide), an admirable point, but rather laborious (comp. p. 115). — Wenden-
stoch (9990'; 4 hrs. ; with guide), difficult, for experts only ; imposing view.
The ascent of the *TitLis (p. 115) is sbiorter from the Engstlen^Alp than
from E^gelbei^ (p. 114). From the (I'/s hr.) Jochpass we ascend to the
right over rocks, debris, and snow, and reach the (3V2-4 hrs.) top after a
steep and fatiguing climb. Guide from the inn 10 fr. (charged in the bill)
i^nd gratuity (with descent to Engelberg 20 fr.). The start should be made
^t later than 2 a.m., with lanterns.
JOCH PASS. 36. BouU. 121
OvKK THE Satt£LI TO Gapmen, 3V2-4 hrs. (guide 6 fr.), a fine route.
At the W. end of the Engstlensee (see below) we cross the Engstlenbach
to the Alp ScharmadlagtTy and ascend a narrow path on the slope of the
Oadmer Fluh to the (2 hrs.) B&tteli (splendid view of the Gadmenthal,
Trift Glacier, and Bernese Alps). Then a long and steep descent to (iVz-S
hrs.) Gadmen (p. 122). A still finer view is obtained from the ^Achteltass-
grai ('GratW)^ yz'hx. beyond the Satteli and a few hundred feet lower.
For 1/2 ^'- *^6 bridle-path to (3^2 hrs.) Engelberg skirts the
Engstlen-See (6076'), a lake V/^ M. long, abounding In trout,
and then ascends, in view of the Wendenstocke , with the Pfafftn
and Joch Olacien, to the (1 hr.) Joeh Fan (7244'; view limited).
A tolerable path now descends over rock and detritus to the
(V2 l^^O Obere Truhaee^Alp (♦Zum Alpenclub, R. 2 fr.), on the S.E.
side of the turbid Triibsee (5794'). On the right is the snowy Titlis,
which is usually ascended from this point {j>. 115). — The Bitzi-
stock (6230') easily ascended from the inn in Y2 ^'m affords a fine
Tiew of the Titlis, Spannorter, Schlossberg, and Engelberger Thai.
The path leads to the N.E. through the flat and marshy valley
(with the Trubsee on the left) , and crosses the brook which de-
scends from the glaciers of the Titlis. It descends the steep Pfafftn-
voand In zigzags, leads over the OefsehniAlp (4125') towards a clump
of pines, enters a wood, crosses the Engelberger Aa at the foot of the
hill, and reached (11/2 hr.) Engelberg (p. 114).
37. From Meiringen to Wasen. Susten Pass.
Comp. ifaps^ pp. 214f 104.
11 hrs.: Im-Hof 1V4) Gadmen 3, Am Stein 2V4, Susten-Scheidegg iVi,
Heien 2»/4, Wasen 1 hr. Horse 35 (or, for two days, 40), guide 21 fr. (un-
necessary).
From Meiringen to Im-Hof (2054'), IV4 hr., see p. 166. The
Susten Road, constructed by Bern and Uri In 1811, and still
tolerably well kept on the Bernese side (practicable for driving as
far as the Stein Inn), diverges here to the £. from the Grimsel route.
It traverses pleasant meadows and wooded slopes, and skirts the
winding Oadmenhach. At one time the Wetterhorn, Wellhorn, and
Engelhorner, at another the Schwarzhom group form the back-
ground towards the W.
The lower valley is called the Miihlethalj above which is the A'es-
senthal. Beyond (20 min.) Wyler the path to the EngstUn-Alp
(p. 120) diverges to the left. The road crosses (10 min.) the Gadmen-
bach, and at an (1/4 hr.) old iron-foundry the Oenthalhach, on the
left bank of which a second path (see p. 120) to the Engstlen-Alp
diverges. At (8/4 hr.) MiihUataldm (3117') the narrow Triftthal
opens towards the S.E., with the Trift Olaeier in the background.
Triftthal (comp. Hap, p. 104; &>/< hrs. to the clnVhnt; guide neces-
sary -y Andr. v. Weii$en/lith of Miihlestalden \ Joh. Moor and Joh. Lucks of
Gadmen). The path ascends on the left bank of the Tfiftbach and on the
left side of the ice-fall to the (3 hrs.) simple Windegg-HHtte (6237'). We now
cross the glacier, here tolerably level, and mount the steep rocks of the
Thaltistocl to the (IV2 hr.) Club Hut {TrifthHUe^ 8250'), aflfording a good
122 Route 37, SUSTENPASS.
survey of the upper basin of the Trift Glacier. From the elub-hnt over
the Trift Limmi (10,170') and the Rhone Glacier to the Furka (p. Ill) or
to the Orimsel Hospice (p. 168), 9 hrs., fatiguing. — The '^Dammastock
(11,909'^ splendid view) is ascended without very serious difflcalty from
the club-hut in 4-5 hrs. (descent by the Rhone Glacier and Nagelisgratli
to the Grimsel, 7 hrs.)- ■— The Sehneettoek (11,667'), ThieralpUstock (ll^lC),
and Diechterhom (ll,12(y) may also be ascended from the club-hut without
difficulty. — Passes to the 09schenen-Alp over the Winterberg Range (Maas-
plankjoch^ Damma Past^ Winterjoch) difficult (comp. p. 105). — Over the
Tiefensatlel (about 10,8200 and the Tie/en Glacier (p. Ill) to the Furka,
interesting, and in certain states of the enow not difficult. — Interesting
passes also cross the Fortwaae: Bsttel (8392') to GuUamun (a steep ascent
uf 3 hrs. from the Windegg; descent by the Steinhatit-Alp to Guttannen
in 2 hrs.), and the Steinlinmii (8970') to the Stein-Alp. The latter route
leads from the chalet of Graggi-Hiitte^ opposite the Windegg on the right
side of the glacier , in 3 hrs. to the col, between the GiglMock and Vorder-
Thierberg^ and descends over the Steinlimmi Glacier and round the slopea
of the Thaleggli to the (2 hrs.) Stein Inn (see below). By combining the
two last-named passes, a good walker may reach the Stein Inn from Gut-
tannen in a single day (11-12 hrs.).
The road crosses the Gadmenbach and ascends by SehafteUn to
(1 hr.) Vnttrfuren (3348Q, wheie the beautiful QadmefUhdL begins,
and(20miii.)the village of Ghidmen(3944'; Inny moderate), eonsist-
ing of the hamlets of An der Egg^ Buhl, and Obermatt. (PaUi over the
Sdtteli to the EngaUen-Alpy see p. 121.) The gieen valley with its
fine old maple-trees contrasts strikingly with the barren and perpen-
dicular Oadmer Fluh (see p. 120). To the E., on the slope of the
VraUtocke (9544^), lies the Wenden'Oletscher.
After a level stretch, the road ascends through wood in numer-
ous windings to the chalets of Feldmooa (4934'), and then traverses
a wild rocky region (*H611e') to the (21/2 hrs.) Stein Inn (61220,
at the foot of the huge *8tein Glacier.
OvEB THE SusTENLiHMi TO THE Goschensn-Alp, 9 hrs., laborious. We
ascend the slopes of the ITialeggli (on the W. side of the Stein Glacier),
cross the Steinlimmi Glacier to the Thieri>ergU, and traverse the n6v6 of
the Steingletscher to the Suatenlimmi (10,1800, lying to the S.W. of the
Gletscherhorn (11,457*). Descent over the Susten Glacier to the Kehlen-Alp
(7562') and across the Kehle Glacier to the Hiniere RGthe and Gdschentn-
Alp (p. 105). — A similar pass is the Thicrberglinuni (about 10,500'):
we cross the Steingletscher to the Joch between the Steinberg and the
Hinter-Thierberg^ and descend the Kehle Glacier to the Goschenen-Alp. —
Ascent of the Brunnenttoek (11,520*), the highest of the SvttenkCrner,
toilsome, but interesting (guide 30 fr.).
Over the Steinlimmi to the Trift-OleUcher (5 hrs. to the Graggi Hut), see
above. Another route crosses the snowy pass of Zwischen-Thierbergen
(about 9780'), between the Vorder- and the Binter-Thierberg , to the (^S
hrs.) Tri/thiiUe (p. 121). — To Engelberg over the Wendenjoeh^ see p. 115.
The bridle-path now ascends above the moraine, making a
long circuit to the right (which a footpath cuts off), and overlooking
the grand Stein Qlacier, environed by the Sustenhorner, Susten-
limmi, Gwachtenhom, Vorder- and Hinter-Thierberg, and Gigli-
stock, to the (1^4 hr.) Suiten-Soheidegg (74200, which affords an
admirable survey of the imposing mountains bounding the Meien-
thal on the N. and culminating in the Spannorter (p. 116).
The path, now uninteresting, winds down to the Meienlach,
\ brook issuing from the Kalchthal, a wild gorge on the right, into
ENTLEBUCH. 38, Boute, 123
which avalanches frequently fall from the Stueklistoek (10,856')
and the Si^tenhomer (see p. 122). Below us lie the Susten-Alp
(5767'), on the right, and the (1 hr.) Guferplatten-Alp (5725') on
the left. The path, now level, traverses the stony valley of theMelen-
Reuss, which consists here of several branches, and crosses the brook
twice. It next crosses the deep ravine of the (8/4 hr.) Ooresmettlen-
hack (5137'), and passes the Goresmettlen-Alp. Several brooks issue
from the Ruttiflrn on the right.
The first group of houses (20 min.) is Fdmigen (4787' ; Inn,
poor) ; then (40 min.) Meien (4330' ; Inn above the chapel), con-
sisting of several hamlets (Dorfli, Huaen, &c.). Above Wasen we
pass the Meienschanz (3600'), an intrenchment erected in 1712
during the Religious War (p. 56), and destroyed by the French
in 1799. Descending rapidly for a short distance, and crossing the
St. Gotthard Railway, we at length reach (1 hr.) Wasen (p. 100).
38. From Lucerne to Bern. Entlebuch. Emmenthal.
59 M. Railway (Jura-Bern- Lucerne), 3-4 hrs. CUf'-, Tfr. 50, 5fr. 30 c.).
Lucerne, see p. 70. — Near the Reuss bridge the train diverges
to the left from the Ziirich line (p. 69), and passes through a
tunnel under the Zimmeregg, 1248 yds. long, into the broad dale of
the KUine Emme. 3 M. Littau, at the base of the wooded Sonnenberg
(p. 69); 71/2 M. Matters (1693'; Kreuz), with a handsome church.
Road hence to (21/2 M.) Schwarzenberg (2760' ; '^Weisses Ki*eu$; PJister-
haus; Pens. Fuche; Kurhavs Matt, primitive), on the hill to the S.., a
pleasant sommer resort. About 2 M. above it is the rustic Kurhau* Eigeiy-
^Aa/(3494'), in a sheltered situation. (Fine view of Lucerne and its lake
from the Wilrzenegg.)
From Sehaehen (see below), the old Bbambog Road leads past the (2 M.)
FambUMer Bad (2310'), a weU-organised Kurhaus , with a spring impreg-
nated with iron and soda, and over the Bramegg (3366') to (5 M.) Entlebuch.
Above Schachcn (I1/2 M. from Malters) the valley contracts.
The train approaches the Emme, and crosses it near Werthensiein
(on the left), with its handsome old monastery, now a deaf-and-
dumb asylum. Beyond a short tunnel we reach (I2V2 M.) Wohl-
hausen (1873'; pop. 1601; Rosslif Kreuz), a large village, divided
by the Emme into Wohlhausen-Wiggemon the left bank, and Wolil-
hausen-Markt opposite. — About 6 M. to the W., at the foot of the
iVajj/" (see below), lies the Kurhaus Menzberg (3314'), a health resort.
We here enter the Sntlebuoh, a yalley 15 M. long, with rich
pastures. The train recrosses the Emme and ascends the £. side
of the valley (several embankments and four tunnels).
171/2 M. Entlebuch (2224' ; *mtel du Port; Drei Konige; *Dr.
Kdgg's Pension^), a well-built village, picturesquely situated.
The ^Hapf (4620^-, 31/2-4 hrs., guide unnecessary ; '*Jnn at the top, visited
as a health-resort, pens. 6-6 fr.), to the W. of Entlebuch, is an admirable
point of view. The route to it crosses the Grosse and the Kleine Emme,
to the W.5 we then either follow the road by Dopleschicand to (5 M.) Ro-
moos (2592'; Inn), or reach it by a direct path in 1 hr. ; from Romoos a
124 Route 38. EMMENTHAL.
good bridle-path leads to the top in 21/2 hrg. more. — From Trubschachen
(see below) a road leads to (1^4 ^0 TrubClnn) hnd the iQy2U.)Metnenalp,
and a bridle-path (practicable for light carts) thence to the top of the
Kapf in 40 min. — Paths also ascend from Schiipfheim, Eseholzmatt, etc.
In the Mntlet^hal, on the W. side of the Sdiimberg (see below), 8 M.
to the S., is the Bchimberger Bad (4677*), with an alkaline sulphur-
spring. Road from Entlebuch to (6 M.) the EntlenbrUeke ; thence by a bridle-
path (carriage to the bridge 8, for two persons 10 fr. ; horse to the bridge 7,
to the Baths 10 fr.) to the weil-eqnipped KurJiauiy the property of Dr. SchifT-
mann, was destroyed by fire in 1{^, but has been rebuilt. Close to the
house are pleasant wood-walks with charming views towards the K. \ and
a good path ascends in 1 hr. to the top of the Sthiwbtrg (6968')^ which
affords an admirable Alpine panorama. Interesting longer excursions
to (1^2 hr.) HeiligJn'euz (see below) •, to the (SV? hrs.) ^Feuerstein (6700'),
with fine view; to the (2V2 hrs.) Schvoendi-Kalthctd (p. 114), etc.
The train crosses the rapid ErUlenhach , which here falls into
the Emme. On the left lies the village of Ha«2e, prettily situated,
22 M. Schfipfheim (2388'; pop. 2872; AdUr; Rdssli), the
capital of the valley. To the E. (IV2 hr.) is Heiligkreuz (3701';
a rustic inn), a summer resort, with a fine view.
A road (diligence twice daily) leads hence to the S. through the valley
of the Kleine Emme , the upper part of which is rocky and narrow, and
past the pretty village of FWhli (Inn), to (10 M.) S&renberg (3812'^ 'Inn),
m the upper Emmenthal, or Marient?Ml. Guide thence to the (4 hrs.) sum-
mit of the Brienzer Rothfiom (p. 164), from which a bridle-path descends to
(2 hrs.) Briens. Comp. p. 164.
We now cross the Kleine Emme, which rises on the Brienzer
Rothhom, and ascend the wooded valley of the Weisse Emme to —
26 M. Egcholzmatt (2815'; *Ldwe; Krone"), a scattered village
(3163 inhah.), on the watershed hetween the Entlebuch and Em*
menthal; then descend to (29 M.) Wiggen (;2QO0' ] Rossll), follow
the right hank of the lifts , and reach (o2y2 M.) Trubschachen
(2396'), at the confluence of the Trubhaeh and Ilfls, the first village
in Canton Bern. (Ascent of the Napf, see p. 123.) To the right,
farther on, is the large timher-huilt hospital of Barau.
351/2 M. Langnan (2244'; pop. 7191 ; *H6t. Bahnhof] *Hirsch;
Bar ; Lowe; *H6t. Emmenthat), a large and wealthy village, the cap-
ital of the Emmenthal, a valley about 25 M. long, 10-12 M. wide,
watered by the lifts and the Orosse Emme, and one of the most
fertile in Switzerland. The cheese of the Emmenthal is much
esteemed; the carefully kept pastures, the fine breed of cattle,
and the neat dwellings with their pretty gardens bear witness to
the prosperity of the natives.
Railway to Burgdorf^ see p. 16. — The Bageschtcayd Hdhe , 1 hr. to
the K.W. , commands a fine view of the Emmenthal and the Alps; the
view from the RafrHii (SOdO'), 2V4 hrs. to the K., is still more extensive
(Panorama by G. Studer).
Beyond Langnau the train crosses the Ilfls and the Emme. 38 M.
Emmenmatty 40 M. %nau (Bar; Thurm), 44 M. Zaziwyl (Krone),
thriving villages. It then skirts the Humberg In a wide curve to
(46 M.) Konolftngen, 3 M. to the S.E. of which is the frequented
Schwendlenbad (QS30^), surrounded by fine woods. 48V2M' TdgerU
SEETHAL. 39. Route, 125
sehi,' 51 M, Worh (Lowe; Stern), a large village with an old
ScMoss. Pleasing view of the Stockhorn chain to the left.
From Worh a carriage-road runs to the E. to (2 M.) the frequented
watering-place of Enggisteia , situated in a ravine , and (1 M. farther) the
charmingly aituated ^Btittihubelbad (2414'; unpretending and moderate),
-with a saline chalybeate spring and a good view, especially fine from the
Hnbeli (3027'; 40 min.)> Magnificent views are also afiforded by the Oum-
megg (3208') , reached via Walkringen in IV2 hr., and by the BalUnbUhl^
the W. summit of the Hiimberg, reached via Schlosstcyl in 1^/4 hr. (de-
scent to the railway-station at Tagertschi in 20 min.).
54 M. Oumlingen, junction of the Bern and Thnn line (change
carriages for Than, p. 135). Thence to (59 M.) £em, see p. 135.
39. From Lacerne to Lenzburg (Aarau), The Seethal
Eailway.
29V2 M:. Steam-Tkamwat in 23/4-4 hrs. ; 2nd cl. 4 fr. 85, Srd cl. 3 fr.
30 c. — This ^Seethal Railway^ from Emmenbrticke to Lenzburg offers a
pleasant tour, though dnaty in summer. The gauge is that of the ordi-
nary railways, the carriages of which can run on this line.
From Lucerne to (2^/2 M.) Emmenbruekey see p. 19 ; here we
change carriages for the ^Seethalbahn', which diverges to the right.
4 M. Emmen (1410' ; Stern), near the Beussy on the right bank
of which, V2 ^* ^ ^^ ^'1 ^ ^^6 ^^^ nunnery of Bathhausen, now
an asylum for poor children. We traverse the fertile Emmenboden
to (6 M.) Waldibrueke. The line quits the road, here unsuitable for
a tramway, and ascends, affording a fine view of the Rigi to the right,
to (8M.)E8cA€n6acA(1561'; Rossli; Lowe), with its large Cistercian
Abbey and valuable gravel -pits in the vicinity. (Diligence twice
daily in 40 mln. to Gislkon, p. 69.)
Above Eschenbach the line rejoins the road, crosses at (9^2 ^0
BcMwyl (1693') the watershed between the Reuss and the Aa, and
descends into the Seethal, belonging partly to Lucerne and partly
to Aargau, one of the most fertile and attractive valleys in Central
Switzerland. This 4ake*valley', I8Y2 ^* long, is bounded on the
E. by the long Lindenberg (2953') and on the "W. by the Ehrlose
(2670') and the Homberg (2595'), and in the middle of it lie the
pretty Baldegg Lake (or Obere See") and the larger Hallwyl Lake
(or Untere -8^ee), amidst pastures sprinkled with fruit-trees.
11 M. Hocbdorf (1653' ; ^Hirsch), a picturesque and prosperous
village, with beautiful pine-woods in the vicinity.
ExcuBSiONs. On a hill to the £. (1/2 hr.) is the cantonal deaf-and-dumb
asylum of Hohenrain (2014'), formerly a commandery of the knights of
St. John, with a fine view of the Alps. Thence in II/2 hr. to SMtloss Hor-
hen (2626'; p. 20), a health-resort, affording a superb view to the 17. and
£.^ then to the O/shr.) ruined castle of Lieli^ another fine point of view,
to (V2 hr.) Augstholz (hydropathic), and back to (V2 hr.) Hochdorf. The
whole excursion may be made by carriage.
To the W. of Hochdorf roads lead by Romerswyl to (4 M.) Oberreinachy
a ruined castle, with an admirable view of the Seethal and the Jura; by
the pilgrimage-shrine of ffildiirieden to the (5 H.) chapel commemorative
of the battle of Stmpach (p. 19); and by Urstcyl to (3V2 M.) Rain, near
i
126 Route 39. LENZBURG.
which is Oberbuchen (2133'), where we obtain a picturesque survey of
Pilatus and the Entlebuch Hts.
I2V2 M. Baldegg (Lowe) a pretty village with an old castle,
now a nunnery and glrls^ school, lies at the S. £. end of the Bal-
degger Bee (1532'), a lake 3 M. long. Skirting the E. hank of the
lake, we next reach (15 M.) Oelfingen (Steiri) ^ where the calture
of the vine begins. On the right is the castle of Heidegg, and
3/4 M. to the N. is the pretty village of Hitikirch (Kranz ; Engel),
once a Teutonic commandery, with a seminary for teachers.
To the N. of Hitzkirch a road leads by AUieit and Aesch to (5 M.)
Fahraangen (Bar) and Meistersehiccmden (Lowe ; *Pens. Seerose), two large
and nearly adjacent villages, where straw-plaiting is the chief industry
(see below) ; thence by Sarmensdorfy past Schloss Hilfihon^ to Villmergen
and (5 M.) WohUn (p. 2(9.
Still running towards the N. W., the tramway now intersects
the fertile plain between the lakes of Baldegg and Hallwyl. I61/4M.
Richensety with the ruins of the Grunenburg, which was destroyed
in 1386, standing upon an enormous erratic block. 17 M. Ermen9te,
a well-to-do village on the Aa. At (18 M.) Mosen the tramway
reaches the Hallwyler Bee (1383'), a lake 5V2 M. long and 1 1/4 M.
broad, and ascends on its W. bank to —
20 M. Beinwyl (1703'; 1430 inhab.; Lowe), a busy, thriving
village with considerable cigar-manufactories, commanding a charm-
ing view of the lake.
Diligence several times daily in 20 mln. to Bevmdi (Bar) and in 1/2 hr.
to Mention (Stem), two indiutrial villages in the upper Wmenthal. —
A pleasant excursion from Beinwyl is the ascent of the Boniberg (25^50,
3/4 hr. to the N.W.*, beautiful view of the Alps and the Jura Mts.
The cars now run high above the lake to (21^4 M.) Birrwyl,
with its large factories, and descend thence to (^72 M.) Boniswyl
(Rail. Restaur.), a busy wifie- trading place.
To Fahbwangsn diligence twice daily in t hour. The road leads past
the handsome old chateau of Hallayl, the ancestral seat of the distin-
guished family of that name, to (I1/2 M.) JSeengen (Bar), a large village,
with the burial-vaults of the Hallwyl family. About 1/2 M. to the S. E.
is the Breateaberg Hydropathic, formerly a ch&teau of Hans Budolf v.
Hallwyl, built in 1625, prettily situated among vineyards at the K. end
of the Lake of Hallwyl. From Brestenberg we follow the E. bank to
Tennwyl, MeUter$chw<mden, and (2 H.) Fahrwangen (see above).
24Y2 M. Niederhallwyl-Durrenasch ; 257-2 M. Seon (Stern), a
large manufacturing village (1479 inhab.).
291/2 M. Lenzburg (1302'; 2731 inhab.; ^Krone; Lowe), a busy
little town on the Aa, with the large cantonal prison. On a hill
above the town, to the E., stands the old Schloss Lenzhurg (1663';
auberge at the top; fine view). Opposite, to the W.. rises the
Staufberg (1710').
From Lenzburg to Aarau and Baden^ see p. 20.
III. BERNESE OBERLAND.
40. Bern 129
Enge? Gurten? Zimmerwald, 134. *
41. From Bern to Thun 135
Environs of Thun ; the Gurnigelbad, 136.
42. TheNiesen 137
43. From Thun to Interlaken. Lake of Thun 138
Sigriswyl ; Blume; the Sigriswyl-Grat; the Rothhom ; the
Schafloch, 139. — The Faulenseebad, 139. — New road
. from Thun hy Merligen to Interlaken \ BeatenhohlC) 140.
44. Interlaken and Environs 141
Excursions. Heimwehfluh; Harder; St. Beatenbei^;
Scheinige Platte; Habkemtbal; Gemmenalphom: Hoh-
gant; Augstmatthom ; Saxetenthal; Sulegg, 143-47.
45. From Interlaken to Lauterbrunnen. Staubbach . . 147
From Zweiliitschinen to Isenflnh and Miirren, 147.
46. Upper Lauterbrunnen-Thal. Miirren. Schmadribaoh 148
• The Allmendhubel ; the Obere Winteregg; the Schilt-
hom, 149. — The Seftaenthal, 149. — From Mtirren to the
Obere Steinberg, 161. — From Lauterbrunnen over the
Sefinenfurgge to the Klenthal, and over the Diinden-
grat to Kandersteg, 161. — From Lauterbrunnen over the
Tschingel Pass to Kandersteg, 151. — From Lauter-
brunnen over the Petersgrat to the Lotschenthal, 152. —
Schmadrijoch, Lauinenthor, Boththalsattel , and Ebne-
fluhjoch, 152.
47. From Interlaken to Grindelwald. Wengernalp ... 153
The Jungfrau; the Silberhorn, 154. — The Mettlenalp;
Guggihutte, 154. — The Lauberhorn; the Tschuggen,
155. — From Grindelwald over the Eismeer to Zasen-
berg, 157. — The Hannlichen ; Mettenberg ; Schreckhorn ;
Monch ; Eiger, 157. — From Grindelwald over the Strahl-
egg and the Finsteraarjoch or Lauteraarjoch to the
Grimsel Hospice, 157. — From Grindelwald over the
Jungfraujoch, Monchjoch, Eigeijoch, and Fiescherjoch
to the Eggishom, 158.
48. The Faulhorn 158
The Rothihom ; Schwarzhorn, 160. — From the Scheinige
Platte to the Faulhorn, 160.
49. From Grindelwald to Meiringen. Baths of Rosenlaui.
Falls of the Reiehenbach 160
The Wetterhornj Berglistock, 160. — Rosenlaui Glacier ;
Dossenhiitte ; Wetterlimmi, 161. — Hasliberg; Hohen-
stollen, 163.
50. From Meiringen to Interlaken. Lake of Brienz ... 163
Brienzer Rothhom, 164. — Road from Brienz to Inter-
laken, 165.
51. The Giessbach 165
The Enge; Axalp; HinterbuT^-See, 165. — Ascent of
the Faulhorn from the Giessbach, 166. — From the
Giessbach to Interlaken, 166.
52. From Meiringen to the Rhone Glacier. Grimsel . . 166
Finstere Aarschlucht, 166. — The Urbach-Thal ; Gauli
128
BERNESE OBERLAND.
Pass; Berglijoch; Dossenhiitte, 166. — The Kleine Sie-
delhorn ; Unteraar Glacier: I^ollfus Pavilion ; Ewigschnee-
horn; Finsteraarhom, 168, 169. — From the Grimsel
over the Oberaarjoch or the Stnderjoch to Fiesch, 169.
53. From (Thun) Spiez to the Gemmi and Leak .... 170
From Spiez to A^chi and Hahlenen, 170. — The Kien-
thal ; Gamchilucke ; Biittlassen ; Gapaltenhom ; Wilde
Frau, 171. — From Frutigen by Adelboden to Lenk ;
from Adelboden to the Gemmi, etc., 172. — The Blaue
See, 172. — The Oeschinen-Thal ; Blumlisalp ; Bolden-
horn; Friindenhorn; Dundenhom, 178. — The Balm-
horn ; Altel0, 174. — Excursions from Bad Leuk ; Torren-
thorn, etc., 175.
54. From Gampel to Kandersteg. Lotschen-Pass ... 176
The Hohgleifen; Bietschhom, 177. — From Bled to
Leuk over the Ferden Pass, the Gitei-Furgge, the Besti
Pass, the Faldum Pass, or the Niven Pass, 177.
55. From Thtin to Sion ovei the Rawyl 179
Source of the Simme,178.— The Oberlaubhorn ; Hiilker-
blatt; Iffigenaee; Wildhom; Bohrbachstein ; Wildatru-
bel, 179. — From Lenk to Gsteig, Saanen, and Leuk, 179.
56. From Thun to Saanen through the Simmenthal . . 180
From Latterbach to Hatten through the Diemtiger
Thai, 181. — The Stockhorn, 181. — Bad WeiMenburg;
over the Gantrist Pass to the Gurnigelbad, 181. — From
Beidenbach to Bulle, 181. — From Saanen to Chateau
d'Oex. 182.
Time. A glimpse at the beauties of the Bernese Oberland may be ob-
tained in four days. (Quarters for the night are indicated by Italics).
1st Day. From Bern by railway to Thun in 1 hr., steamboat to Darligen in
IV4 hr., railway to Interlaken in 10 min. — 2nd Day. Drive in IVa br. to
Lauterbrunnen, walk over the Wengernalp and Little Scheidegg to Orin-
delwald (6 hrs.). — 3rd Day. Walk over the Great Scheidegg to Meiringen
(6«/4 hrs.). — 4th Day. Drive to Brienz (IV2 br.), take steamboat to the
Giessbach, and return to Interlaken and Bern. — Most travellers, however,
will proceed from Meiringen over the Briinig to Lucerne, or over the
Grimsel to the Rhone Glacier, etc. (Those who come from Lucerne gener-
ally cross the Briinig to Meiringen, and then visit Grindelwald, Lauter-
brunnen, and Interlaken.) In any case the Giessbach merits a visit (after-
noon excursion from Interlaken). Another day or two may be pleasantly
devoted to Miirren, the Faulhom, and the Scheinige Platte. — Those who
prefer it may omit the Wengernalp, and drive from Interlaken to Grindel-
wald (p. 169). Thence to Meiringen, and from Im-Boden to the Grimsel,
there are bxidle-paths only.
Guides, Horaea, Carriages. The charges are given in the respective
routes. Where there is no fixed tariff, the charge per day for a carriage
with one horse is usually 15 fr., with two horses 30 fr.*, guide 6-8 fr.;
horse or mule with attendant 15 fr., donkey 9 fr. For the usual route
by Lauterbrunnen, the Wengernalp, Grindelwald, the Scheidegg, Meiringen,
the Grimsel, the Furka, and Andermatt, no guide is necessary; on fine days
the route is much frequented and can hardly be mistaken. On the other
hand a guide sometimes affords useful information, and will relieve the
pedestrian of his knapsack. The principal headquarters of the guides are
Interlaken, Lauterbrunnen, Grindelwald, and Meiringen.
The pleasure of a visit to the beautiful Bernese Oberland is somewhat
-red by the usual drawbacks of favourite public resorts. Contributions
"evied upon the traveller under every possible pretence. At every gate
■
' 'i.
BERN. 40. Route, 129
he passes through a group of children who expect to be paid for their super-
fluous services. He is assailed by vendors of strawberries, flowers, and
crystals , by exhibitors of chamois and marmots, by urchins standing on
their heads or turning somersaults, and by awakeners of echoes. Swiss
songstresses, neither young nor pretty, next appear on the scene, and the
nerves of the traveller are often sorely tried by the Alpine horn and the
Ranz des Vaches, which, though musical at a distance, are objectionable
when performed close to the ear. These annoyances had at length become
so serious that the government appointed commissioners to inquire into
the matter. Their advice is, 'Give to nobody* •, and the remedy therefore
lies principally with travellers themselves.
40. Bern.
Hotels^ ^Bbkneb Hor (PI. a; G, 6), adjoining the Federal HaU, B. A A. 4-
5, D. 5 fr. jpmBLLBvux (PI. b; D, 6), adjoining the Hint, B., L., dS^ A. 372-473)
D. 4fr.; botn these command a view of the Alps. Schweizkkhof (PI. c : G,4),
near the station, R., L., & A. S*/?, I>- 4V2fr.*, •Faucow (PI. d; D, 4), m the
town, E. & L. SVz, D. 4 fr. — H6tel de Fkahce (PI. g; G, 3, 4), R., L.,
& A. 3, D. 3 fr.; ^HoTSL du Juba (PI. h; B, 4), adjoining the Bank, B., L.,
& A. 2Vs^ fr. ) HiBSCH (PI. i; G, 4), these three near the station. — In the
town: 'Zahbikgeb Hop (PI. u; D, 4), Walsenhausplatz. B., L., & k.^^l^^
D. 3 fr. ; 'Pfistbbn {Ahhaye des Boulangers^ PI. k; £, 4), near the clock-
tower; *Stoech (PI. 1; C, 4), Lows (PI. mj C, 4); both moderate; Hohb
(PL n; F, 4); Schxibdbm iMarichauXy PI. p; D, 4); ^Hotel zd Webebn
XH6t. des TisserandSy PI. q; D, 4) and Gasthof zu ZiMXEBLEUTBif (PI. t;
D, 4), both in the Marktgasse; these last all moderate. — Unpretending:
ScHLUSSEL (PI. r; £,4); *Bab, near the station, B. 2V«fr.; *Wildeb Hann
(PI. s; C, 3, 4), Aarberger Str., B. 2, B. l^/i, I>. 3fr. ; Ehmbnthaleb Hop,
17eue Gasse; ^Kbbuz. Zeughausgasse, opposite the Zahringer Hof, moder-
ate, B. IV2, D. 2 fp, 40 c, pension 4V2-5 fr. — ♦Pens. Hebter (PI. 05 F, 4),
well situated, near the Cathedral; ^Pens. Jolimont, Aussere Enge (IV? At- i
p. 134), with tine view and shady walks (5-6 fr.); *Pens. Victobia (6-6 fr.),
on the Schanzli (p. 134), for invalids ; also *Pen8. Hdo, in the Mattenhof^
5 min. from the town (for surgical cases).
Cafes and Befttauranta. "Rati. Restaurant. ^Cafi Ccuino near the Fed-
eral Hall, terrace with view of the Alps; Ca/4 Berna; Ca/4 Stemwarte^
on the *Grosse Schanze' (PI. B, 3); Cafi du Thidtret Zahringer Hof (see
above); SchwelUnmdtteli^ on the Aare; "MUtzenberg, Kesslergasse, moderate.
At the W. pavilion on the Milnster-Terrasse (p. 131) refreshments are sold af-
ter 1 p.m. (Sundays after 4 p.m.); music occasionally in the evening, and
on Sun. 11-12 a.m. — Outside the town: Cafi Bch&ntU (p. 134), beyond the
railway-bridge (1/2 M.), on the lofty right bank of the Aare (concert or
summer-theatre daily); "^Cafi in der Enge (p. 134), 1 M. from the Aarberg
Gate. — Beer. *jrrone, Gerechtigkeitsgasse; Ca/4 Bemay National^ Baren^
Schauplatzgasse ; *Cafi Rhyn^ Barenplatz; Cafi Stemaarte (see above);
Cafi H6i. de France. Bernese beer: Hahnen; ''Cafi Cou^ani, Barenplatz;
Stadtgarten, Neuengasse; Jtiekery Eramgasse.
Alpine Boots. Riesen, Spitalgasse; Seheidegger, Waisenhausplatz. —
CooNAG, Madeira etc. at Demms's, Aarziehle.
^Zajuid'B KuMiun of Alpine animals, Untere Alpenegg, Engestr. 10
(PI. B, 2 ; to the left of the railway-bridge, on the way to the Enge).
Batha. Swimming Bath at the Holzplatz, below the Bemer Hof (cable-
tram, see p. 133). River Baths below the TJnter-Thor Bridge, by the 'Peli-
kan' (PI. G, 3), and in the AltenUrg. Water of the Aare very cold. (65*680 F.).
Pfeiffer"* Baiht in the Lorraine, 8 min. from the Schanzli (p. 134; water
77-81«F.). — Warm Baths (Turkish, etc.) at Buchler's; Fi'iekhad^ below
the Mtinster-Terrasse.
Gabs. One-horse, for V« hi"* 1-^ pers. 80c., 3-4 pers. Ifr. 20c.; each
additional 'A hr. 40 or 60c. Two-horse: same fares as for 3-4 pers. with
one horse. Box 20 c, small articles free. From 10 p. m. to 6 a.m., double
fares. Whole day, i.e. over 8hrs., 1-2 pers. 15 fr., 3-4 pers. 20fr.
Baedeker, Switzerland. 12th Edition. 9
130 Route 40. BERN. Com HaU.
Tramway from the Bears'Den through the chief street to the railway
station, and thence on to the 'Linde' (Bremgarten Cemetery); fares 10-30 c.
Post and Telegraph Of&oe (PI. 15), near the station. Branch-office in
the Kramgasse, at the old post-office.
Xncrliah Ohureh Service in the Cathedral (10.30 a.m. and 4.30 p.m.). —
Bom. Oath. Senriee at the French Church, Zeughausgasse : Sun. at 6, 8,
and 12 ; week-days at the Hauskapelle, Oerechtigkeitsgasse 2, at 6 and 8.
Attbactiomb. First visit the ^Kleine Schanze^ and the Federal Council
Hall ; then the Kirchenfeldbrucke and the Cathedral (Miinster-Terrasse and
Erlach Monument) \ follow the Kreuzgasse to the Bathhaus ; then past the
Zeitglockthurm to the Corn Market, and cross the Waisenhausplatz to
the museums; lastly (time permitting) cross the railway-bridge to the
Schanzli and then return to the station.
Bern (1765'), the capital of Canton Bern, with 44,087 inhab.
{including its extensiye suburbs), has been the seat of the Swiss
government since 1848. Founded by Duke Berthold V. of Zahrin-
gen In 1191, the town became independent of the Empire in 1218.
By 1288 its powers had so Increased that it warded off two sieges by
Rudolph of Hapsburg, and in 1339 the Bernese overthrew the
Burgundian nobles at the battle of Laupen (p. 192). In 1353 Bern
joined the Confederation, and in 1528 the citizens embraced the
reformed faith. In 1415 they conquered part of Aargau, and In
1536 they wrested the Pays de Vaud from the princes of Savoy; but
in 1798 they were deprived of these territories.
The city is built on a peninsula of sandstone-rock, formed by
thoiiare, which flows 100' below. Most of the broad principal
streets run from E. to W. Those In the old part of the town are
flanked with arcades (Lauben), which form a covered way for foot-
passengers. One of the chief characteristics of Bern consists In its
numerous fountains, most of them dating from the 16th oent.,
adorned with statues of every variety (Samson, Themis, an Archer,
a Bagpiper, an Ogre, etc.). In other respects also Bern still retains
more medieval features than any other large town in Switzerland.
XT The chief artery of traffic is a series of broad streets , called
the Spitalgasse, the Marktgasse, the Kramgasse, and the Oerechtig-
keitsgasse, which extend from the Obere Thor (PI. B, 4) to the Ny-
deck Bridge (PI. G, H, 4), a distance of nearly a mile. In thisi
street are situated the Kdfigthurm (PI. 20), now a prison, and the
A' Zeitglockenthnrm (PI. 21 ; E, 4), once the £. gate of the town,
but now its central point, rebuilt in 1770. On the E. side is a cur-
ious clock , which announces the approach of each hour by the
crowing of a cook , while 2 min. before the hour a troop of bears
marches in procession round a sitting figure. Being the heraldic em-
blem of Bern, the bear frequently recurs. Thus, on the neighbour-
ing Bdrenbrunnen (PI. 2), Bruin appears with shield, sword, ban-
ner, and helmet. Two bears also support a shield in the pediment
of the Com Hall (PI. 12), a handsome building, which down to
1830 always contained a store of corn to be used in case of famine
(wine-cellar below, much frequented). The Kornhaus-Platz is em-
bellished with the grotesque SindlifreBBer-Bnmnen (^Ogre Foun-
Cathedral, BERN. 40. RouU. 131
tain,* PI. 3; D, 4) ; the ogre is about to devoni a child, while other
innocents protrude from his pocket and girdle.
At the E. end of the opposite Metzgergasse are the modern
Old Catholic Church (Vl. 11), designed by Deperthes of Rheims,
and the Eathhana or Town Hall (PI. 16; F, 4), erected in 1406,
and restored in 1868, approached by a handsome flight of steps,
and adorned with the arms of the Bernese districts.
ACThe *Catliedral, or Munster (PI. E, F, 4, 5), a fine late-Gothic
structure, 93 yds. long, 37 yds. broad, and 76' high, was begun
in 1421, completed in 1573, and restored in 1850. Round the whole
of the roof runs a beautiful o]^en Balustrade, the design of which is
different between each pair of buttresses. The W. Portal is remark-
ably fine; the sculptures represent the Last Judgment; in the
outer arches are Christ, above, with the Virgin and John the Baptist
on the left and right, and the Twelve Apostles ; in the inner (smal-
ler) arches are the Prophets and the Wise and Foolish Virgins.
The unfinished Tower ^ 134' high, is covered with a clumsy tiled
roof; the entrance to it is by a side-door in the W. portal. "We
ascend 223 steps tc the lodge of the tower-keeper (50c.), who shows
the relative proportions of all the large bells in the world , and to a
gallery commanding a superb view,
Ihtbbiok (adm. 20 c.). The Choir contains Stained Qlass of 1496, one
window representing the dogma of Transubstantiation , another the Life
of Christ. The Choir Stalls (1522) are adorned on one side with Apos-
tles, on the other with Prophets. A monument with the armorial bearings
of Berthold von Zdhringen , the founder of Bern (see p. 130) , was erected
by the city in 1600. Another in memory of the magistrate Friedrich von
Steigery bears the names of the 702 Bernese who fell on 5th March, 1798,
at the Grauholz, 6 M. to the N. of Bern, in an engagement with the
French. In front of this is a Pietas in marble, by Tschamer (1870). The
organ rivals that of Freiburg (performance every evening in summer at 8;
tii^ets, i fr., at the hotels or from the verger).
'^ The Platz in front of the cathedral is adorned with an Equestrian
Statue of Rudolph von Erlach (PI. 6), the victor at Laupen (p. 192),
in bronze, designed by Volmar of Bern, and erected in 1848, with
bears at the corners, and inscriptions and trophies on the pedestal.
y. The ^Cathedral Terrace {Munster-Terrasse ; PI. F, 5), rising
abruptly 110' above the Aare, formerly the churchyard, is now a
shady promenade with seats , adorned with a bronze statue of Ber-
thold von Zdhringen (PI. 7; p. 130) , designed by Tschamer^ with
Bruin as a helmet-bearer. The view from this terrace, as Indeed
from every open space in Bern, is justly celebrated. In clear weather
the panorama of the Bernese Alps witnessed here is more extensive
than from any other spot in the Oberland.
*news. The most important mountains are marked in the annexed
Panorama. From other points (the Miinz-Terrasse, Casino-Garden, Bundes-
Sathhaus, Kleine Schanze, Caf^ Schanzli, and the Enge outside the Aar-
berger Thor) the following mountains are also visible: — To the right of
the Doldenhorn, the Balmhorn (12,180*) with the Altels (11,930'; 37 M.
distant), and over the Gurten, the bell-shaped summit of the Siockhom
(7195'i 18 M.) J also, to the extreme left, the peaks of the Spanndrier (10515'}
9*
p ~ IS M.) kDd ih« ScAlauUrf (10,280-; 51 ■.).
f BdmMen Be^E«holii^ll (581*™ 24 H.*
' und the FiBiriUm above (be Bndebuch
(8700'; 30 K,\
Tb«>e mounUins pTuent a, subllDU
J.pectacle al sunset in doo wealber, e«pe.
daily wben the W, borlion Is ptrllally
relied witb thin clondi, >nd tbe pbeoo-
■nenon calkd the ALrENDLUHEH CQlow of
. (he Alps'} Is produced. Long after tbe abad-
1. ow> have fmllen upon tbe vallej'S, and tbe
i O upwards, « if illumined by n. brigbt in-
I S. The HUtoriMl Knwnm (PI. U;
I ^ E, 0 ; Tuee. and Set. 3-5, Sand. lOl/j
■^ -1'!; at other times 1 pets. 1 tt. ;
1 J for 12 pars, or more 50 c. each] oon-
« tg taina atchieological , ethnographical,
a m anil histodcal collection*, including
•-' antiquities fiom lake-dwellings and
!, g- tombs, Swiss implemenU of the flint,
1' £ bionze, and iron periods, a selection
so of anolent weapons fiom the arsenal of
J I Bern, Burgundian tapestry, the fleld-
Ij £i altar of Charles the Bold, enriched
^ with gilding and preoions stones (cap-
|] ^ tuied at Grandson), etc.
j a Adjoining the museum, on the S.,
I Is the nnlwMityCPI- 22; 360-80 stu-
I dents), founded in 1834; on the N.
« side is the Town Libnuj (PI. i ; open
i( ^ daily, 3-6 p.m.), containing numerous
. ^ hiatoriea of Switzerland.
|i % lo the S. of the Unhersity the
I .S *EircliGnfeIdbraGke (PI. E, 6; splen-
' •* did view^, a huge iron bridge built in
is, 1882-83, 751' long, 115' above the
' Aare, crosses the Aare to the HeWatia-
Platz in the Kirchtnftld, where a new
~ quarter of the town is being erected
gi by an English company.
■ The boat view of the bridge is
S obtained from the MUntUrraist (PI.
I 13), immediately above it, on the left
I bank. We may now follow the Iriscl-
Btnsse, past the old InttUpital (PI,
18), now occupied by the federal
Kurut'Museum. BBRN. 40. Route, 133
authorities , to the Casino-Platz (PI. C, 6). To the right , at the
corner of the Barenplatz and the Schauplatzgasse, is the Museuniy
a dnb (introduction by a member), with a facade adorned 'with
statues of celebrated Bernese by Dorer.
^Cln the Bundesgasse, on the left, rises the ^Federal Council Hall
(Bundes-Rathhaus, PL C, 5), a handsome edifice in the Floren-
tine style, 400' long and 165' broad, designed by Studer, and com-
pleted in 1857 (porter on the right of the principal entrance ; fee
1 fir. for 1-3 pers.). The sittings of the two legislative assemblies,
usually held in July, are open to the public. The debates, which
are generally very keen, are in German or French. Rulings of the
president, motions, resolutions, etc., are announced in both lan-
guages. The roof commands the most extensive ^Yiew in Bern.
— In front, of the Bundes-Rathhaus is a fountain-figure of Bema,
in bronze , on a pedestal adorned with figures of the four Seasons.
Between the Council Hall and the Bernerhof is a Cable- Tramwaf/^ 360'
long (gradient 3 : 10), opened in 1885, which descends to the bathing etablish-
ments in the Aarziehl (p. 129). Trains every 6 min.; fare 10 c.
To the W. of this point , passing the Bernerhof , a few paces
bring us to the pleasant promenades on the *Kleine Schanze (PI.
B, 0, 5), which affords a superb survey of the Bernese Alps (comp.
p. 131 ; Panorama by Imfeld), with the Aarethal and the Kirchen-
feldbrucke in the foreground and the town to the left.
The Knnst-Knsenm in the Waisenhaus-Str. (PI. C, 3), a fine
Renaissance building, contains the municipal Picture Oallery
(50 c, daily 9-12 and 2-5; Sun. IOV2-I2, gratis).
On the Gkodnd Floob are two rooms to the left containing sculptures
and casts (1st : Imhof^ Atalanta, Eye, Hagar and Ishmael ; TVeftamer, Pie-
tas; Dorer ^ Fountain-monument. 2nd: Casts from the antique). — The
vestibule of the Uppeb Floor contains statues of Miriam, Ruth, Rebecca,
and David, by Imhof; Bumand^ Herd leaving the mountain-pasture. Ist
Cabinet: 23. Reinhardi^ thirty plates of Swiss costumes^ several water-
colours (3. Mindj Cats; 11. Lorp, DeviPs Bridge; 19- Corrodi,, Rome). 2nd
Cabinet: Early (German and Netherlandish works. 3rd Cabinet: Portraits
of Bernese artists, etc. — Large Saloon. To the right : 111. Ribera^ St.
Jerome; E. Oirardet: 133. Going to school, 1^. Almsgiving; Paul Robert.,
Echo \ 128. BonstetUny Falls of Temi ; *153. Ritz^ Engineers on the moun-
tains; ATb. de Meuron: *141. Chamois-hunter, 143. Negress, 142. The dying
husband; 146. K. Oirardet^ Scene from the battle of Morat; *153. Anker ^
The examination; 152. Pixit^ Huss parting from his friends; 154. Anker ^
The dead friend ; 157. Al. Calame^ Waterfall near Meiringen ; *172. Koller,
Cow and calf in the mountains; 200. Millner^ Mountain pasture; 160.
Didapy Chalet in the Bernese Oherland; *165. Vautiery Saying grace; 161.
JHdapy Valley of Lauterhrunnen ; 175. D''0r8chwiller^ Ape concert; 226.
Buchsery Among the waves; 167. Humbert^ Cattle crossing a river; 166.
Ouigon, Grand Canal; 166. <7a?am«, Scene near the Handegg; 162. Diday^
Evening landscape; 15S. Steffan, Scene near Meiringen; 197. Harrer^
Olevano; Ca»t<my The first snow on the Lake of Oeschinen; 185. Walt-
hardy Skirmish in the Grauholz in 1798; 147. Veillon^ Spring morning on
the Lake of Brienz; 199. Toble^y Checkmate. — 5th Cabinet. 223. Fritchinffy
On the Lake of Brienz; 182. Schulery Strasbourg in 1870; 127. L. Robert,
Italian woman; 224. Zimmermanny AroUa Glacier; 164. Prdvosty Wood on
the Great Seheidegg. — 6th Cabinet. A. v. Bonstetten, Landscapes.
Opposite is the Natural History Museum (PI. C, 3; in summer,
134 RouUdO, BERN. Nydeekbrucke.
Tues. and Sat. 2-5, and Sund. 10i/2-l^V2> ^'®® j on other days, 8-6,
adm. 1 fr. ; for 2 peis. or more, 50 c. each).
To the right on the ground-floor is the Colledion of Mintrala , which
includes some magnificent crystals (rock-crystal, smoky topaz from the
Tiefengletscher on the Furka). To the left, Fossils. — On the first floor
is the Zoological Collection. In the central saloon, with ceiling-frescos by
Baldancoli, are large ruminants. In the room on the left, birds and eggs.
In the room on the right, 'mammalia. Adjacent a small room devoted
to the Swiss fauna. — On the 2nd floor, to the left, amphibia, fish, and
marine animals; to the right, conchylia, crabs, and insects.
Adjoining the Museum on the £. is the handsome new School
Building (PI. G, 3), accommodating the Gymnasium and Com-
mercial school. — To the W, of the town in the Freiburger Stasse,
is the large new InielBpital, consisting of six. hospitals ^30 beds)
and various medical buildings, and erected at a cost of 90,000 L
Crossing the Railway Bridge (p. 16), at the N.W. end of the
town, we pass the Botanic Garden and reach (^2 M.) the ^Sohftiizli
(PI. D, E, 2 ; CafSj adm. for noncustomers 50 c), with a terrace and
grounds commanding the finest view near Bern. In the foreground
lies the picturesque city ; above it rises the wooded Gurten ; to the
left are the Bernese Alps, and to the right the Stockhorn chain, adjoi-
ned by the Freiburg Mts. ; and to the extreme W. is the MoMson.
The large Military Dep6t of Canton Bern, in the Beundenfeld
beyond the Schanzli , erected in 1874-78 at a cost of 41/2 million
francs, comprises an arsenal, offices, stables with riding-schools,
and a large barrack. The Arsenal contains large stores of weapons,
and in the 'AntiquitatensaaV are various curiosities (fee).
On the E. side of Bern the Aare is crossed by the handsome
Nydeekbrucke (PI. G, H, 5), in three arches , built in 1844. The
central arch has a span of 158', and is 100' high. On the right
bank of the Aare, close to the bridge, on the right, is the Bears'
Den (Barengraben')y where Bruin is maintained , according to im-
memorial usage , at the cost of the municipality. Bread and fruit
are the only offerings permitted. — From this point the Muri-
stalden, a handsome avenue of plane-trees, affording a fine view
of the town, ascends to the Schonegg^ returning to the (20 min.)
town by the Marien-Strasse and the Kirchenfeldbrucke (p. 132).
To the N., 1 M. from the Aarberg Gate, on the left bank of the Aare,
is the "'Engey a large peninsula nearly surrounded by the Aare, rising
high above it, and commanding an admirable view. The finest point is
the caf^ (p. 129), surrounded by beautiful shady grounds.
The view from the ^Ourten (2825'; */mi), a long hill to the S. of Bern,
embraces, besides the Bernese Alps (p. 131), the Stockhorn chain, the Frei-
burg Alps, the Jura for a distance of 100 M., with parts of the Lake of
Neuchatel ; and, to the left, the Unterwald and Lucerne Uts. as far as Pi-
latus. The road from Bern to the (4 M.) Gurten, leads from the Aarzihl-
Thor to the Cc^fi SchGnegg and (IV2 M.) Wdbcm , from both of which
points paths also ascend through wood to the top. On the hill-side are the
BdchUlen and Victoria asylums for deserted children.
Above Belp (p. 137) , 6 M. to the S. of Bern , lies Zimmeneald (2815' ;
H5t.-Pens. Beau-S(£jour), charmingly situated, and (4 M. farther) B&tschelegg
■^71' 5 Inn), with an extensive view.
41. Route. 135
41. From Bern to Thnn.
Comp. Map, p. 140.
19V8 M. Railway (CentraJbahn) in 1 hr. (3 fr. 36, 2 fr. 86, 1 fr. 70 c).
View to the right as far as Munsingen; thence to Uttigen on the l^.
Through-travellers to Interlaken go on to the Scherzligen terminus (see
below), 1/2 ^- heyond Thun, where the steamer awaits them.
Bern, see p. 129. On the Wylerfeld (p. 16) the train turns
to the right, affording on admirable survey of the Alps to the right.
3 M. Ostermundingen ; 5 M. Oumlingen (H6t. Mattenhof), junction
for Lucerne (p. 121) ; 8 M. Rubigen ; 10 M. Munaingen. On the
right rise the Stockhorn chain and Niesen (p. 137), the last spurs
of the High Alps, and to the left the Monch, Jungfrau, and Bliim-
lisalp. I2V2 M. Wichtrach; 141/2 M. Kiesen. From this point we
may ascend to the right in 272 hrs. to the Falkenfiuh (3280'), a
health resort with a fine view. Near (15^2 M.) Vttigen we cross
the Aare. On the right of the entrance to the station of Thun
rises a large barrack.
19y2 ^' Thnn. — HoteU. *Thdnbb Hof, a large hotel, beautifully
situated on the Aare, R., L., A A. from 4V*, B. IV2, D. 4»/8-6 fr.; *Bellevue,
with extensive grounds, B., L., & A. from 3, B. IV2, I>. 4V2-5, pens. 11 fr. ;
'Fkbienhop, by the steamboat-quay, with Gafd-Restaur. and garden on the
Aare, B. AA. 2V2^i D. 3, B. U/^fr.'^ *Falke, with terrace on the Aare,
R. 2-3, D. 3fr.i •Keedz, R. 2, D. 3fr.-, Hot. -Pens. Bauhoabtbn, with
garden, R. from 2., pens. 6-10 fr.; *Kbonb, adjoining the Town Hall, R.,
L., A A. 2V2 fr. ; Schweizekhof, at the station. — *Pen8. Ittbn, on the
Amsoldingen road , 6V2 ^r. ; Pens. Eichbuhl, on the lake, near Hilter-
flngen, 2 H. to the S.E.
Oflkffo. Freienhof (see above) ; Cafi du Casino, on the way to the Belle-
vue. Beer at the Freienhof, the Ca/i du Pont, on the way to the railway-
station, and the SchtUssel, by the Lauithor.
Baths in the very rapid and cold Aare, to the "S. of the town, 60 c.
Warm Baths at the Bailie Baths. — Telegbaph Office opposite the Post-
office. — MoNBT Ghangbb, il. Knechtenhofer. — Boat on the lake, according
to tariff, 3fr. per hour, 2 hrs. 5 fr., 3 hrs. 7, »/« day 8, whole day 10 fr.;
but .better terms may sometimes be made. — Cabvbd Wood at /. Kofler's^
in the garden of the Bellevue.
Gab to or from the station 1 fr. Carriage with one horse the first hr.
4, with two horses 7 fr., each addit. hr. 3 and 6 fr. To Gunten 6 or 8, to
Herligen 7 or 12, to Interlaken 14 or 25, to Wimmis 6 or 10, to the Blaue
See 20 or 26, to Kandersteg 20 or 38, to Weissenburg 13 or 24, to Zwei-
simmen 28 or 30, Saanen 35 or 60, Gsteig 40 or 70, Chateau d'Oex 40 or
70, Aigle 80 or 160, Gumigel 30 or 50 fr.
Enolish Chapel in the grounds of the Bellevue.
Thun (1844'; pop. 5124), charmingly situated on the Aare^
3/4 M. below its efflux from the lake, forms a fitting portal to the
beauties of the Oberland. The principal street is curious. In
front of the houses projects a row of warehouses and cellars,
10-12' high, on the flat roofs of which is the pavement for foot-
passengers, flanked with the shops. Thun is the centre of the
trade of the Oberland.
Near the bridge (to the left) a covered way of 218 steps (and
to the right of the bridge, at the Pens. Baumgarten, a road without
steps) ascends to the Church, erected in 1738. •View from the
churchyard, embracing the old-fashioned town, the two arms of
136 Route 41. THUN.
the rapid river, the fertile and partly wooded plain, and the Niesen,
beyond which the snow-flelds of the Doldenhom and the Blilmiisalp
are visible. — Near the churchyard rises the large square tower of the
old Caatle of Zdhringen-Kyburg with a turret at each corner, erected
in 1182, and within the walls of the castle is the Amts-ScfdosSj or
residence of the Bernese bailiffs, erected in 1429. From the
'Schloss-Promenade', beside the tower, we obtain a beautiful view,
to the S.W., of the town, the valley of the Aare, and the Stockhom
chain. A road, ending in a covered flight of steps, descends hence
to the market-place.
^Thun is the seat of the Federal Military School for officers and
sergeants, chiefly of artillery and engineers, and contains the federal
manufactories of ammunition. Military mancBuvres take place here
annually on the 'Almend', or common. The Keramic Museum con-
tains a fine collection of terracottas, majolica, etc.
Walks. Above the town on the right bank of the Aare, through the
Bellemie grounds to the O/4 hr.) "^Pavilion St. Jacques (JakobshUbeli, 2100'),
commanding the lake, the Alps, Thun, and the valley of the Aare. Higher
up (8 and 10 min.) are two other ^pavillons^ (Obere and UntereWart), the
higher of which affords a charming survey of Thun and the valley of the
Aare. — Another walk is by the road on the right (N.) bank of the Aare
and of the lake across the '*Bdehimatty with its pretty grounds and Alpine
view (Eiger, Honch, Jungfrau, Bliimlisalp , Doldenhom , etc.) , to the (20
min.) Chartreuse (the property of the Parpart family). Here (or by a shorter
path 8 min. farther back) we turn to the left , passing the Bachihiflzli^
cross (10 min.) the Bunibach^ and follow a path through the picturesque
*Kohleren-8chlucht^ where the brook forms several small falls. This path
ascends to the Griisisbergwald (see below) and the Ooldiwyl road (Vs hrO'
On the Bern road, o M. to the N.W. of Thun, lies Jleirnberg^ with
extensive potteries. — To the H. of Thun is the (IV2 M. ; diligence
6 times daily in 20 min.; carr. with one horse 3 fr.) considerable village
of ateffishwg (brewery), whence we may ascend in V2 hr. to the smaJl
aehnittweyer-Bad (trout), with its mineral spring. — Charming walk on the
Ooldiwyl Roady which diverges to the right from the Steffisburg road, at
the '■ffabeli\ a few hundred yards to the K. of the town. (A shorter path
ascends to the right at the Pens. Baumgarten, with numerous guide-posts.)
The beautifully wooded QrUsisherg^ which the road ascends, is intersect-
ed with good paths, furnished with finger -posts. The fijiest points of
view are the Bappenjluh or Rabenfluh (3844'; 1 hr.) and the Br&ndUsberg
(2897'; 20 min. from the Babenfluh or 1/2 hr. from the Hiibeli direct),
which overlook the town, the valley of the Aare, and the Stockhom chain.
After ahout 2V4 H. the road divides. The left branch leads to (IVa M.)
Ooldiwyl (3155'; Zyssefs Inn), which may be reached also by a shorter
road (3 M.) from Thun, diverging to the left before the Bachimatt. The
right branch leads to (2V4 M.) HeiUgenschwendi (3324'), 3/4 M. to the S. of
which is the *'Haltenegg 0287*), affording a magnificent view. A picturesque
way back leads through the Kohleren (see above; descend to the left at
the guide-post near the bifurcation, mentioned above).
The handsomest of the villas on the lake is Schadau, the property
of H. de Rougemont, a modem Gothic building, charmingly situated
between the left bank of the Aare and the lake, and embellished
with sculptures in sandstone. On Sundays the garden is open to the
public. — Farther distant, on the right bank, is the chateau of Hiinegg, in
the French Renaissance style, the property of Mme. de Parpart. Beautiful
view from the terrace. Apply to the gardener, who lives on the road,
V4 M. nearer Thun. No fee.
Excursions. Thierachem (1867'; Lowe), with fine view, 3 M. to the
V^. ; 3 M. farther W., Bad Blumenstein and the Fattbach; thence through
THE NIESEN. 42. Routt. 13
tbe OHTitigel-Bad (see below). Balhi ef Belitetf'ltcr
umenstcin, beyond Ibe OanlrSil Fiuii , see p. ISl. -
viU»ge ajid cis- " " ■
Fiom Spiez to (IV4 H.) 5pieiu!j;l<r, see p. 170. We then ci
the Kander to the right to (2 M.) —
Wlmmit (2080'; pop. 1349 1 Lotm), a pretty village in a very fer-
tile diilrict, at the E. base of the Burgpvh f5072'), overloolted by a
castle of the once powerful Barons of Weissenbnrg, which ifl now
occupied by a school and the local authorities. The church Is said
to have been founded by King Rudolph II. of Burgundy in 933, but
ia mentioned in ancient documents as early aa 533.
AsoEKT or TBI ViESEH PBOK WiHMis. Tbc patb uceodx OQ the S. side
DflheBurgfluh. After 35min. it croiies the Slaldinbachi S min. later, by
pulnru and wood, paasinii Ibe chalel ou tbe Bergli. By Ibe 0 hrs.)
chalets of Unlirilaldtn (4941') the path crosses to tbe rieht bank of the
Staldenbub, and winds up (he slopes of (he Kiesen, past (be chalets oF
THE WIESEN.
ObmMiea 0SR831. The prospect flrst revesU Ilself beyond the fl'/i tT.)
SlBMni(jj (B3*6'l, K sh«rp ridge connecting tbe BcttJIah (TB24') or From-
hrratiorn witta tbe Nie^en, where the insl snowfields ot (he BliimlisBtp snd
Blnpea
(wlenev
c it dlvld
Ji. Ihe
-,5^T«
bfMCh
must be set
cled), 4S far
P/. b
)l then
tbrnn^ wood (1 hr
) and over
°the"teiet3 of Bt
I((ft(m-
™w4
tDd Ihe St
im-Alp, in n
dings, io
he (2i/j3 hrs.)
Inn. Thi. r
ute afford! 1
rous >nd
divemifled
views.
bBttbe
or riding
(Drinkin
milk a
p. ni). The
p»th (B hrs
. not fit fo
r rldln
PHfol'
^e left ne>F
K. end
of the village to
H'il.UeH
{1/5 hr.
filUffiOcA, uien
ds in w
0 (ilrn. "
ugh w
wd u>d
Ibe Sriliia^
to the (iV.
hr.J
Thence
to tbe (I'/i b
«™(ilirflfr«» («lff),
nd lb
npidly
to the (20 m
nOi'MttoIp,
put th
UiUm an
a Ohen Siaiif
Jlp 10
the (!■/. br.)
Slaldentee, vben
the palb
•torn. V
8»e direction
■Sordi > bei
Kuder-
Ibii'a^
"thoVliS.-
-IBM, 5 min.
tbe .un.mil, R., L.,
IkX
B. 2, fr.
The *KiMmi (TT63'), the conepicuous N. outpost of ■ 'bTtnch
of the Wildstrubal , and like Pilstus regarded &b an infallible baro-
meter (see p. 90), rises in the farm of a gently sloping pyramid.
The rocks at the base are clay-slate, those of the upper part sand-
stone-conglomerate. On the top there is room (or about 50 persons
only. The Alps are seen to greater advantage here than from the
Rigt. The view vies with that from the Faulhorn ; there Ihe Wetter-
homer form the foreground; bete we are close to the beautiful
snovry BlQmlisalp at the head oC the Kienthal.
View (eomp. the jiinorima, p. lli^. The moit conspicuons mowmo.
nntaina are: to the E. the distant Tltlia: nearer, the Wetterbomer and
Schreckhilmer, tbe Eiger, Honcb, Jungfrau. OleMcherhom. Ebneltub, Hit-
(a«hom, Orosiboni, Breltbom, ud Tschlngelhom ; to tbe 8. tbe Bliimlli-
alp with Iti three peaks (Horgenbom, Welige Frau, BlUmllsalpborn), the
Doldenbom, Balmhora, and Altels; to Ibe W., tbe Wlldhom, appearing
between two black peikl^ to the left of these tbe pipnaclu of the HonI
Blanc eroup; then Ihe Iwo peaks of the DenI duVldl, tbe lait snow-
group towards tbe W. The entire Lake of Thun is Tisible, and part of
that of Brieni. The thickly peopled valleis of Ihe Siniioe, EnBatligenbach,
and Kinder, and the Kienthal may he traced tor a long diitanee. Towards
tbe N. the course of the Aare, and the hill-country of Be™ , ai far as
tbe Jura, complete Ihe prospecl. Beit light towards snnsel or in tbe
43. From Than to Interlaken. Lake of Thun.
Cojnp- Map, p, HO.
SlBiBBoii i-6 times dally in 1"/, hr. from Thun I3clurilii/Hi com
ISfil to Dartiftni atationg Oterisfen, Ounten, Spiti, Mtrligci, LtiiHg
! last two not always loucbed at). — RaiLwai from Darligen to InU
from Thun to Interlaken 2 fr. 95 c); from Interiaken to BSMptn (p. 1
.... . .. ., _ .. . _ _ - ■ ■ „ (fg 1
■e »l or iOc. — R
"le S. fiut a new road (tfii t H,; onehorK
two-bine 26 fr.)'. which between Merilgen ' and Noubans will
era (comp. p. 140).
LAKE OP TBDN. 43. Route. 139
The 1»k» of Thnn (1837'; greatest depth, TIW") Ib 11 M.
long, and nearly 3 M. broad. The banka are at first studded with
TlUis and gardens, but, farther on, the N. bank becomes precipitous.
The SrsiMBOAT starts from the quay near the Freienhof Hotel
(p. 135), aacende theAure, stops at the Rellevne, and then at
Sefifniigtn, the railway 'terminus Tsee p. 135). To the left, among
the trees, is the Charlraut fp. 136); to the tifiht, where the Aare
emerges from the lake, Schloii Schadaa (p. 136). The Storkhorn
(7195*), with its conical summit, and the pyramidal Niesen CTTeS^
rise on the right and left of the entrance to the laUeys of the Kander
and Simme [p. 181). To the left of the Niesen are the glittering
snow-fleldl of the Blilmlisalp ; on the right, at the head of the Kan-
derthal, the FrQudenhorn, Doldenhorn, Balmhom, Altels, and
Rinderhom gradually become visible (from left to right). In the
direction of Interlaken appear successively (from right to left) the
Mittaghom, Jnngfrau, Mdnch, Elget in the toregronnd, and farther
off the SchTeckborn and Wetteihoin.
The steamer skirts the N.E. bank, which is clothed below with
vIIIbb and gardens and higher np with woods, and passes the pretty
village of Atlf«r/!n^«i (Fens. desAlpes) and the chfiteau of Hanegg
(p, 136). It touches at Obwhofen (Penaiont 'Moy, 'Obtrhofen;
SeilaaT. Zimmtrmann), which has a picturesque chateau of Coun-
tess PourtaUs, and at Gnnten {Wtissei Sreue,- 'Fent.duLac, btt.\
Birich; 'Peru. Oraber, all on the lake; Pem. Schonberg , on the
hill, 10 min. from the lake, 5 fr.).
* road BUSDda fmin Qanten to (Vi lir.) Kjriawyl (2621'-, Pmt. Biit,
matic), a prellUy aitoatod villaee. The Slmns (4S77'i line Tiew) la aiccniied
Ofrcr-BeryH, COW) by tb« Alpiglni Alp in 3>/r3 lirs.; tbe BttrOugla- Bolh-
Iton (SrS!'; ga!d«). Ibe higheat point of the Sigrigwyl-Gnt, In 4 bri.
— On lbs steep elnpe oT Iba SigriAwyt-Gnt towards lh« /minimal
(p. 40) la the Bcliafloti mtO), a grand Ice m och d f tlie Obers
BerEll by a giddy path in ■/• hr. (guide and re ry)
The steamer now crosses the lake at th b ad t p rt, towards
the S., to SpiM (*Sp(««- Hof, with g d n cd 1 We hatha, B.,
L., AA.3Va-4, D. 4,penB. 7-8fr.; 'P tM 8 h negg 8/j M. from
the lake, pens. 6 fi,), a small village p tt ly s tuated on the S.
bank. The picturesque old chateau , whi h f rm ly belonged to
the Eriach family, is now the property f R lin g ntl man, who
has restored it and surrounded It with pretty ground, (visitors
admitted); the interesting armoury Is open on Wed. (adm. 1 fr., for
the benefit of the poor). From this point two black peaks are risible
for a short time towards the F., above the S. bank of the Lake
of Brieoi ; that to the right is the Faulhom, the broader to the left
the Schwarzhoin,
To AhcM. lee p. 171; ascent nf Ibe JffeKn, p. 137. Diligence tn c™-
Hff«. sae p. iTOi to ZatiiimmiTi, see p. 18!. - Above the villata oCFauita-
lu, 3 M. to tbf S. E. (mad, see p. ITl), is the 'FaulenaH-Bad eBSy-, R., L.,
t k, 4, D. 8Vt, pens. fr« fr,), with a minenl spring, pleasant groandi
and beanUfnl dew.
140 Route 43. LAKE OF THUN.
On the N. bank lire next obserre the abrupt Sigrisvoyl-Orat,
with the bold Balligstocke (COGGQ and the Sigriswyler Rothhom
(6737Q. On the lake is Schloaa Ralligen, Beyond stat. Herligen
(*H6t. Beatus ; Lowe), at the mouth of the Jusiisihalj the Na»e^ a
rocky headland, projects into the lake. High up on the steep bank
runs the new road, hewn in the rock at many places (see below). Ou
the margin of the lake lies the chateau of Lerow ; and farther on
are the Beatenbach and the ravine of the Sundgrdben (see below).
A good bridle-path ascends from Herligen to the (iVz hr.) Kurhaus
St. Becitenberg : 1 M. from Merligen it diverges from the new road (see
below) to the left ; farther up, where it divides below a meadow, we tarn
to the left again.
On the S. bank lies £rat%en (Stern) ; then Xeis^tyen (Stein-
bock), at the base of the Morgenberghorn (p. 146), pleasantly situated
among fruit-trees. The steamboat stops at Sarligen (*Pen8. Schdn),
the terminus of the ^Bodeli Railway ^^ which conveys us to Inter-
laken in lOmin. Opposite, on the N. bank, lies Neuhaus, the former
landing-place (see below).
The Railway at first skirts the lake , passing under a viaduct.
To the left , at the influx of the Aare , is the ruin of WeUsenau
(p. 144). To the right, farther on, we have a fine view of the Monch,
Eiger, and Jungfrau. The station for (2^2 M.) Interlaken is at the
village of Aarmilhle. Y4 M. from the beginning of the Hoheweg.
The new *Road on thb N. Bank of the Lakb of Thun leads
fromThun "by Hilterfingen and Oberhofen to(6M.) Qunt€n(j^. 139);
then across the Stampbach (waterfall) and past the old ch&teau of
Ralligen to (274 M.) Merligen (see above), 1 M. beyond which theve
bridle-path to Beatenberg diverges to the left (see above). The road,
remarkable for the boldness of its construction, ascends round the
Nose (see above), passing through two rock-tunnels, skirts the preci-
pitous slopes high above the lake, crosses the Kruibach-Tobelj and
leads through wood (passing the chateau of Lerow , below , on the
right) to the (2 M.) bridge over the Beatenbach (♦Italian Restaur.).
A path leads hence in i|4 hr. to the Beatenh&hle, from which the Beaten-
bach dashes forth with a noise like thunder in spring and after heavy
rain. St. Beatus, the first apostle of Christianity in this region , is said
to have dwelt in this cavern.
Three more tunnels ; then a gradual descent. Beautiful view
of the lake, with the Eiger to the right. Crossing the Sundgraben,
we observe the houses of Sundlauenen below us, on the right. Then
past the (IV2 M.) Kiiblibad or St. Beaiusbad (Engl. Pension) and
the Neuhaus (on the right), to Vnterseen and (3 M.) Jnterlaken.
44. Interlaken and Environs.
Comp. Mapy p. 154.
Hotels and Fenaions (omnibus 1 fr.). On the EOhetoeg, from W. to E. :
A«H6t. MfiTBOPOLE (PI. 1), pens. 7-11 frt 'Victobia (PI. 2), with lift, R., L.,
& A. from 5, B. iVa, T>. 5, pens. 8-12 fr.; beyond it the small Pension
.'firi jy'it Aiiu' T.TTajniPr » i>-l>r»,ijeiiiii^
Kiit>iiCcCr*s 1
' if' j ^ 5 h
nJttixrfn
INTERLAKEN. 44, Route. 141
VoLTZ (PI. IS), and *B&t. Hosn (PI. 30), unpretending ; *Junofbau (PI. 3),
B., L., dk A. from 4Vst !>• iVs-d fr. ^ *SoHWBizBBnoF (PI. 4); ^Bblvxdesb
(PI. 5), R., L., & A. from 4, D. 4 fr. j *H6t. des Alpes (PL 6); *H6tbl
Bbaurivagb (PI. 9), R., L., & A. from 0, D. 4V2-5 fr. ; Hot. du Nord (PI. 7),
B., L., & A. 4V4, B. IVst ^' * fr- ; ♦H6t. Inteblakbn (PI. 8), R. L. & A. from
3Vt» D- 3V2i pens. 7-8 fr.; Hot. du Lac (PI. 10), R., L., & A. 4, D. 3 fr.
To the W. of the Hoheweg, in the direction of the railway-station :
H3t. Oberland (PI. 12), R., L., A A. 3, D. 3, pens. 6-7 fr. •, opposite to it,
B688L1 (PI. 26), moderate; *Wei88E8 Kbkuz (PI. 11), R. 11/2-2. D. 3, B. lV4fr.;
•Adler (PI. 14) ; *H6t. Bbboeb (PI. 28), R. , L., A A. 2V2-3V2, D. 2V2, pens. 5-7 fr.;
Hot. -Pens. Ersbs (PI. 27), moderate ; ^Hot. de la Gabe (PI. 29), the last three
near the station; Schwan, R. 1-2 fr. — Kear the lower bridge over the Aare :
^Bellbvue (PI. 15), pens. 5V«*6Vs fr* — On the small island of Spielmatten :
*HdT. DU Pont (PI. 16), with garden, R., L., &A. 4, D. SVs, pens. 6-8 fr.;
*Krone. — At Unterseen: *H6t. Untebseen (PI. 17), pens. 6 fr. ; •Beau-
Site (PI. 18), pens. 6-8 fr.; Eiger CEnglUh Pension'*)^ on the Neuhaus
road, well spoken of; ^Pension St. Beatus (Mrs. Simpkin)^ well situated
near the Lake of Thun.
To the S. of the Hoheweg, on the road to the Kleine Rugen: •Deut-
8CHEB Hof (PI. 20), R., L., <fe A. 3«M, B. l*/*, D. SVa, pens, from 6 fr.; *H6t.
Kational (PI. 19), B., L. A A. 3V«, D. 5V« f'.? Hot. Rebeb (PI. 21), pens.
6 fr.; Hot. Obeb, or 'Schlossli' (PI. 23), pens. 7-9 fr.; ^Pens. Villa Bischoe-
FBEBGEB; "^HoT. JuNGFBAUBLiGK (PL 22), OB the Kleine Rugen (p. 142), a
first-class house, commanding a splendid view, with pleasant grounds; R.,
L., & A. from 6, B. 11/2, D.5, omnibus lV2fr. ; pens, in July and August
12-16, at other times 8-12 fr.; *HAt.-Pen8. Mattenhof, prettily situated
close to the Kleine Rugen, pens. 6V2 fr.; Pens. Zwahlen, moderate.
In the Environs of Interlaken good and inexpensive quarters may be
obtained. At Wildernafi (p. 147), U/2 M. to the S. : *HdT. Schonbuhl, in a
fine lofty sitaatlon, pens. 5-6 fr. ; "Bab, pens. 4V2 fr. — At Otteigwjfler (p.
147): Pens. Schonfels. — On the Brienz road, on this side of the church-
hill of Goldswyl, (8/4 M.) Pens. Felsenbog , 5V2 fr. — At Bdnigen (p. 164)
on the 8. bank of the Lake of Brienz, li/s M. E. of Interlaken : *Pens. Bel-
lbbivb, ^Penb. BdHiGBN, and *Chalbt du Lao, moderate. — At Beaten'
berg, see p. 144.
Caaino on the Hoheweg, with caf^, reading, concert, billiard-rooms,
etc. ; music daily 7.30 to 8.30 a.m., and 8.80 to 6 and 8-10 p.m. ; whey-cure
7-8 a.m.; admission for one day 50 c, for a week 2V2 fr. or 10 fr. per month ;
for extra entertaiments 1 fr., or for subscribers 50 e. per day. The ^Jeu
de Courses\ a mild kind of gambling, is played here. At the back of
the Casino is a whey-cure establishment.
Boatanraiits. Baiarisehe Bierbrauerei^ with garden, next to Hdt. Beauri-
vage; C<^/i Oberlcmdf H61. du Pont, on the Aare, with 'Biergarten'' and a fine
view ; Berger and Krebs, by the railway-station. — Oonfectioners : Weber,
Bahnhof-Str. ; Berger, at the entrance to the Eurgarten.
Baths in the Hot. M^tropole, Beaurivage, etc. — Honey Ohangers;
Volksbank, Ebersold^ both Bahnhof-Str. — Druggist: Seewer.
Carriages, ffortes, Ovides, see pp. 146, 146, 147, 152, etc. — Donkeys,
IV2 fr. per hour. — Post and Telegraph Office adjoining the Oberlander Hof.
English Ohnrch Service in the old Convent Church. Presbvterian Ser-
vice (Scottish Free Church) in the Sacristy of the Schloss at 11 and 4.
The low land between the lakes of Thnn and Brienz, which are
2 M. apart, is called the ^BodelV. These lakes probably once formed
a single sheet of water , but were gradually separated by the de-
posits of the Lutschtne, flowing into the Lake of Brienz, and the
Lomb€Uih, which falls Into the Lake of Thun. These accumnla-
tions, first descending from the S., out of the valley of Lauterbrun-
nen , and then from the N. out of the Habk^ren valley, account for
the curve which the Aare has been compelled to describe. On
142 RouUU. INTERLAKEN. Vnierseen,
ibis piece of land, 'between tbe lakes', lies Interlaken (IdBSQ, con-
sisting of tbe villages of Aarmuhle, Matten and Vnterseen^ and ex-
tending nearly as fax as tbe Lake of Biienz (total pop. 4116).
Tbe principal resort of visitors is tbe *H5beweg , an avenue of
fine walnuts , extending from tbe village of Aarmiible to tbe upper
bridge over tbe Aare , and flanked witb large botels and tempting
sbops. Tbe central part of tbe avenue, wbicb is open towards tbe
S., commands a beautiful view of tbe Lauterbrunnen-Tbal and tbe
Jungfrau (finest by evening ligbt). On tbe N. side is tbe CaainOy
a building in tbe Swiss style, witb garden, reading-room, etc.
(entrance between tbe Scbweizerbof and Belvedere; music, etc.,
see above). On tbe S. side , fartber on, rises tbe old monastery
and nunnery of Interlaken y founded in 1130, and suppressed
in 1528, surrounded by beautiful walnut-trees. Tbe E. wing of
tbe monastery bas been used as a bospital since 1836; tbe rest
of tbe building, witb tbe Scbloss added in 1750, is occupied by
government-offices. Tbe nunnery bas been converted into a prison.
Tbe cboir of tbe monastery -cburcb is now an English Chapel.
A small cbapel is used by a Frencb Protestant and a Scottisb Pres-
byterian congregation. Tbe nave of tbe cburcb is a Roman Catbolic
place of worsblp. To tbe left, at tbe upper end of tbe Hobeweg, tbe
road to Brienz crosses tbe Aare by a bandsome new bridge, imme-
diately above wbicb are tbe railway-bridge and tbe Zollhaus station
of tbe Bodeli Railway (p. 164).
Towards tbe W. tbe Hobeweg is continued by tbe busy street
wbicb leads tbrougb AarmuhUy and past tbe Post Office (see p. 142),
to tbe railway-station. To tbe rigbt are tbree bridges (fine view
from tbat in tbe centre) crossing tbe island of Spielmatten to tbe
small town of Unterseen (1995 inbab.), wbicb consists cbiefly of
wooden bouses darkened witb age, witb a large square and a modem
cburcb. Large manufactory of parqueterie.
Interlaken is a favourite summer resort, and is noted for its
mild and equable temperature. Tbe purity of tbe air, tbe wbey-
cure, and tbe beauty of tbe situation attract many visitors, wbile
otbers make it tbeir headquarters for excursions to tbe Oberland.
Walks. Tbe *Kleine Bugen is a beautiful wooded bill to tbe
S. of Interlaken, on tbe Wilderswyl road. Tbe principal patb, pro-
vided witb bencbes, ascends by tbe Hotel Jungfraublick in a
straigbt direction, leading round tbe bill to tbe left , and affording
varied views of tbe Bodeli and tbe valley of Lauterbrunnen , to
tbe *Humboldtsrube' (view of tbe Jungfrau and Lake of Brienz).
In 1/2 ^^' ^® reacb tbe Trinkhalle (Caf ^-restaur.), commanding tbe
Jungfrau, Moncb, and Scbwalmern. [A little before tbe Trinkhalle
a patb to tbe rigbt ascends to tbe Tanzboden (a level spot in tbe
wood) and tbe (20 min.) Rugenhohe (2424^, a pavilion witb a
view of tbe Jungfrau and tbe lakes of Thun and Brienz.] Beyond
tbe Trinkhalle tbe main patb leads to tbe left, round tbe bill,
Heimaithllilh. INTERLAEEN.
passing the 'Soheffel Pftilllon'
(with a view of the Lake of Than),
tha Kailhoferattin (see below),
and the reBecioii (fed from the
Saietenthal, p. 146), and back to
the HStel JuDgrraublick ('/^ hr.).
Other paths, with beaRhes in
shady nooks and points ot view,
lamifyfiomthemMnwalkin every
direction. About tha beginalag
otthe century the hill was planted
by the chief foreater Kasthofer
with Bpecimena of the principal
trees of Switzerland. The stone <
above mentioned bears an in- S
aoriptionto his memory. — Jnstbe- .,
yond the Ttinkhalle a path diver- |
ges to the left, and by a (1 min.) ^
bench descends to the right to (he ^
WagntrenichluchI (see below). g^
Another leads straight past the 2.
bench, Bklrtingtbe wood andkeep- |
ing to the left, to the (10 min.) g.
Cafi UnijHinntn (see below). a
*BBimvehfliih(2218'). From p
the station, from Aarmiihle, and
from Matten, roads lead to the a;
(V?M.)entranoetotheB'n^err!n- 2-
tdUucht, to the W. of the Kleirie ^
Rngen. We ascend the ravine ^.
for about 300 paces, and diverge °
by a path to the right, which |.
ascends rapidly, passing a flue ^
point of view on the right, in 20 ^
min. to the Reitaurant. The '~'
terrace commands a charming
view (finest in the afternoon) of
the Bodeli and the lakes of Thun
and Brienz ; the Jungfrau, Munch,
and Eiger are visible from the
small belvedere higher up. — Path
from the TrinkhuUe, see above.
The ruin of 'Uiupimiieii (40
min,), with a splendid Tiew of
the Lauterbrunnen valley , the
Jungfrau, the Munch, and the
Lakeof Biienz, isreached through
4
i
144 Route 44. INTERLAKEN. St. Beatenberg.
the WagnSrenschlucht (at the end of which on the left , is *Cafi
Unspunnen, with beautifnl view), or by the Kleine Rugen (see p. 143).
The rained castle of Weissenau (2 M .) on an island in the Aare near
its influx into the Lake of Thun (p. 1^), is reached by the old road
from Matten, or by the road from Unterseen to Thun.
To the Hohbiihl (2070'; 1/2 hr.), on the right bank of the Aare, a path
ascends to the left immediately beyond the upper bridge over the Aare.
(The lower path to the left leads to the Voffttruht on the Aare, a resting-
place and spring.) The pavilion commands a fine view, which is more
extensive from the grassy slopes of the Untere BUieki^ a few hundred
5 aces higher. (The footpath leads to the right, crossing a brook after
0 min.) From the Untere Bleicki a narrow path, called the Oreierz-Leiter,
descends direct to the Lustbiihl (see below). Or we may return to the
Hohbiihl and descend thence by steps to the Vogtsruhe, skirt the right
bank, pass a rifle-ground, and reach the narrow and stony plain of Ooldei^
between the Harder and the Aare, at the base of the Falkenjluh^ the upper
part of which, seen from the proper point of view, resembles an old
man's face (the Hardermannli). On a rocky hill below the Falkenfluh is
the Lustbiihl, a pavilion commanding another fine view. We may now
return to Interlaken by the bridge behind the Casino (in all, 11/2-2 hre.)*
— The Harder may be ascended by a picturesque and safe route (practi-
cable for riding) which diverges to the right, from the Habkern road,
1 M. to the N.W. of Unterseen, before the road to Beatenberg. We as-
cend at first through wood (path steep at places) to (2 hrs.) the Hardtf^
matte (3988'), which commands a magnificent view of Interlaken and the
Bernese Alps. Thence we descend, passing above the Hardermannli (see
above), to the Untere Bleieki and the (1 hr.) Obere AeurebrUeke at the E.
end of Interlaken (see above). The beaten path should not be quitted
without a guide, as accidents have occurred owing to the precipitous
character of the mountain. — The Thurmberg, ascended in V2 hr. from
Goldswyl, beyond FeUtnegg on the Brienz road (p. 164), overlooks the
Lake of Brienz and the small, sombre Faulensee or lake of Goldswyl. —
A walk may be taken by the same road to (3 M.) Binggenberg , with a
picturesque church built among the ruins of the castle (view) , and to
the Schadburg (2388'; iVs M. farther), on a spur of the Graggen, an un-
finished castle of the ancient barons uf Binggenberg, a still finer point.
LoNOEB Excursions (comp. the Map, p. 154). To St. BbatbN"
BBRO, 2^2 lifs. (one-horse carr. from the station to the Kurhaus 17,
two-horse 28 fr. ; diligence daily In 3 hrs.; 5, retninlng 4 fr.).
The road diverges, 1 M. from Interlaken, to the left from the road
into the Habkemthal (p. 146), crosses the Lombaeh^ and ascends
through wood in windings (avoidable by shortcuts), passing a re-
freshment-stall which overlooks the Lake of Than.
St. Beatenberg. — ^Kdbhaub (Dr. imier^s)^ at the W. end, with a
pleasant plantation near it, 21/2 M. from the Hdtel des Alpes, with 130 beds
and two 'd^pendances"', R. 3-6, D. 4V2, pens. 8-12 fr. — At the E. end of
the village, on this side of the Sundgraben : ^Hot. des Alpes; ^AtPENnoss,
pens. 6-S fr. ; beyond the Sundgraben : ^Bbllevue, with admirable view,
R. Sl L. 3 fr. ; ^Pens. Victobia; Pens. Waldrand (unpretending); ^Pbmb.
Beatbice; at all these, pens. 6-8 fr. — English Church Service at the
Bellevue.
The village of 8t. Beatenberg (STGOQ, a favourite health-resort,
lies in a sheltered situation on both sides of the Sundgraben, which
opens towards the Lake of Thun. Admirable view of the Alps, from
the Schreckhorn to the Niesen, including the Eiger, Monch, Jung-
frau, Bliimlisalp, Doldenhorn, and Wildstrubel. Good wood carv-
igs at moderate prices.
Seheinige PlatU. INTERLAKEN. 4 d. Route. 145
A much finer point of view is the *Amnisbilhel '(4883' ; */»» at the
top), 25 min. to the E. of the Hdtel des Alpes (not quite S hrs. from In-
terlaken). Walkers from Interlaken diverge from the road to the right by
a finger-post, */4 M. below Beatenberg, and reach the top thence in V« br.
Pleasant walk from the Kurhaus to the Waldbrand (25 min.) \ beautiful
pine-wood and charming views. — Beyond the plantation by the Kurhaus
a path to (V4 hr.) Merligen descends to the left.
Ascent of the '*Oemmenalphom {OnggUgrat^ 6T720 from the Amnisbuhel,
2Vs ^M. ; guide 3 fr. (unnecessary for the experienced). To the foot of
the Horn a gentle ascent over pastures ; the last Vz hr. steeper. Superb
view, ranging from Pilatus to the Stockhorn chain and the Diablerets;
at our feet lies the Justisthal (p. 140); beyond it are the Aare, Bern, and
the Jura Mts. The Lake of Thun is not visible.
The Niederhom (6447') and Burgfeldsiand (6782'), each 2V2-3 hrs. from
Beatenberg, are also fine points of view.
From Interlaken to the *Oi€88haeh on the Lake of Brienz (p. 165)
a steamer plies four times daily in summer (comp. p. 164).
Bonigen (II/2M.), Osteig (i^/i M.), with a fine view from the
churchyard, and Osteigwyler (272 M.), with the ^Hohe Steg^ over the
Liitschine, also afford pleasant walks from Interlaken.
The *Sclieiiiige Platte (6790'; to the top 31/2-4 hrs. ; bridle-
path from Osteigwyler) is one of the finest points of view in tfie
Bernese Oberland. (Horse, incl. carriage to Osteig, 17 fr.; boy^to
carry luggage 1-2 fr.) Prom Interlaken to (1^/4 M.) Osteig, see p. 147.
Here we may cross the bridge by the church and follow the road to the
right to (%M.) Osteigwyler (Pens. Schonfels). In the middle of the
village the bridle-path ascends to the left, and very soon to the left
again ; after 12 min. it ascends in zigzags to the right, through wood.
Or, shorter, we may ascend from Osteig to the left, by a path between
the church and the inn, turning to the right where the path divides,
and in 20 min. reach the bridle-path at the point where it enters
the wood. The bridle-path now mounts by numerous zigzags to
the (11/2^0 Schonegg (4754'; cabaret), which overlooks Inter-
laken and the lakes of Thun and Brienz, and to the (1 hr.) mountain-
crest, and crosses its W. extremity. (On the right a furrowed rock
called the 'Ameisenhaufen\ or ant-hill). A few steps more bring
US to a striking scene. The Lauterbrunnen valley lies at our feet,
its dizzy abysses descending almost perpendicularly to the Liitschine,
and to the left towers the majestic Jungfrau. Following the S. slope
of the crest for 35 min., we arrive at the *H6tel Alpenrose (R., L.,
& A. 41/2, B. IV2, I>. 4 fr.). The Platte, a crumbling and
'shining plateau* of slate-rock , is a few hundred paces from the
hotel. The finest view is obtained from a bend in the path , a few
paces before the Platte is reached. The traveller should not omit to
visit the Iselten'Alp, 1/4 ^r. to the N.E., a pasture which supports
a herd of 600 cattle, with their pleasant tinkling bells.
In order to enjoy a complete panorama, we skirt the left side of the
perpendicular Oummihorn (6893') 1 to the N.W. of the hotel, and ascend
the (20 min.) *Daube (6772% whence the survey of the lakes towards the
N. is particularly fine. To the S. we enjoy a magnificent view of the
Bernese Alps: from left to right, the Wellborn , Wetterhorner, Bergli-
Baxdskbb, Switzerland. 12 th Edition. 10
146 Route 44. INTERLAKEN. AbendJberg,
stock, Upper Grindelwald Olacier, Schreckbomer , Lauteraarhorner,
Lower Grindelwald Glacier, the Finsteraarhorn peeping over the Eiger-
grat, the Fiescherhomer, Eiger, Monch, Jungfrau, £bne->Fluh, Mittaghom,
Grosshom, Breithom, Tsohingelhorn, Tschingelgrat, Gspaltenhom, Weisse
Frau, Doldenhorn, and numerous nearer peaks; far below is the Staubbach
in the valley of Lauterbrunnen. Towards evening the lakes of Keuchatel
and Bienne are seen glittering in the distance. — Descent from the Platte
by Oiindliichwand to Zweililtachtnen, 2V2-3 hrs., steep at places. At the
small pond near the Platte to the right we descend across meadows to
the (3/4 hr.) lower chalets of the Iselten-Alp (5116'; guide to this point
2 fr.); thence through wood, no mistake being possible farther on.
Fboh the Scheinige Platte to the Fauluobm (4 hrs; guide un-
necessary). The bridle-path, commanding splendid views, leads to the Iselten-'
Alp and on the S. slopes of the Laucherhom (8333') to the (1 hr.) ridge
bounding the BdgUthal on the S. We then descend slightly to the C/4 hr.)
BdgitihalBee^ with its chalet (6258'), skirt its N. and E. banks, and ascend
to the ridge between the Bchtoaibhom and the Faulhom. The top of the
latter, 2445' above the lake, is gained in 2 hrs. more (see p. 158).
The Habkemthal, between the Harder and 8i. Beatenberg, may
also be explored. Road to the Tillage of (5 M.) Habk^rn (3500' ;
Inn); one-horse carr. 15, two-horse 25 fr.
Three line points of view may be visited hence. The ^Gemmeiialp-
horn (6773') is reached by crossing the Brandlisegg^ or by following the
Bijklhach^ in 4 hrs. (or better from the Amnisbiihel, p. 145). The Hohgant
(TU') is ascended in 4 hrs. via Bohl (^902') and the Sagletschalp^ or by
the Alp BOsdlgau and through the Karrholen. To the S.W. of the Hoh*
gant is the Oriinenberg (6095'), a pass between Mabkern and Sehangnau in
tl^ Emmenthal (6 hrs.). The Augstmatthom (Suggithurm^ 6844' *, SV2 hrs.)
is ascended via the Bodmi-Alp.
The ^Ahendberg is reached from Interlaken by a bridle-path in
1 hrs. (horse 10 fr.), turning to the right in the Wagnerenschlucht
143), and passing mostly through wood. The *H6tel Bellevue
737' ; pens. 5y2-7 fr.) commands a splendid Tlew of the valley of
Lauterbrunnen (Jungfrau, Monch, Eiger, Schreckhorn) and of the
Lake of Brienz. Fine survey of the Lake of Thun from the Siebenuhr-
tarhrte, 10 min. above the hotel.
A foot-path leads past the different peaks of the Abendberg to the
(3 hrs.) Bothenegg (6282*; shortest way from the hotel, 2 hrs.). The next
peaks of the range are the Fachsegg (63460, the Groste SehiffU (6674'), the
Kleine Bchiffli (6586'), and finally the Morgenberghorn (7383'). The last is
beat ascended from Saxeten, by the Tanzbodeli Pass (see p. 171). A foot-
path leads from the Hotel Bellevue to Saxeten in 1 hr. (the upper path
to the right in the meadow, behind the second chalet).
The Sazetentbial, between the Abendberg and the Bellerihochst
(6870'), is reached by the road (walking preferable to driving)
to Mulinen and the (7 M.) village of Saxeten (3602'; Kreuz), which
will even repay the pedestrian. About iy^'Mi. higher up are the
falls of the Gurben and Weissbach^ and the valley is picturesquely
closed by the Schwalmem (9137'),
The *Sulegg (7914'i 3V2-4 hrs.), an excellent point of view, is ascended
from Saxeten. We ascend by the (35 min.) OUrbenfall to the Untere
Ifetalem-Alp (4806'), cross the Giirbenbach to the left, and several other
brooks descending from the Sulegg. Beyond the (ly* li') Bellen-Alp (6204'),
we turn to the right between the Bellenhdchsl (6870') and the Sulegg, skirt
the £. slope of the latter, nearly as far as the Bulsalp, for V4 hr., and
reach the top in 1 hr. more. The ascent is easier from Itenjluh (p. 147),
7i& the Qummenalp and SuUap (872 hrs. \ guide). -^ From Saxeten over the
%
ZWEILUTSCHINEN. 45. Route. 147
TanxbddeU Pass and through the Suldthal to (6 hrs.) Aetchi^ see p. 170
(interesting; guide not indispensable).
Interlaken may also be made the travellei's headquarters for
many of the following excursions.
45. From Interlaken to Lanterbmnnen. Staubbach. 7^
Comp. MapSy pp. 140, 164.
8M. Diligence twice daily in l»/4 hr., fare 2fr.75c. — Cabbiaqe from
Interlaken to Lauterbrunnen, or the reverse, with one horse 9, two horses
16 fr.; there and hack, with 2 hrs. stay, 11 or 20fr.^ with a longer stay,
15 or 30 fr. 5 from Interlaken to Z weilutschinen 7 or 12 fr.
The road leads through orchards and meadows, hyMatterij where
the road to Wilderswyl (p. 141) diverges to the right, and Osteig
(p. 145), to (2 M.) Mulmen. To the right rises the Abendberg, with
the ruin of Unspunnen at its base ; beyond them are the Schwalmern
and Sulegg; to the left the Scheinige Platte. The road crosses
the Saxetenbach, and soon enters the narrow gorge of the Liitschine,
To the right rises the precipitous Roihenfiuk. At a spot in this defile,
marked by an inscription on the rock (Y2M.), and named the Bosen'
stein, a baron of Rothenfluh is said to have slain his brother.
The valley expands, and divides into two branches near (2^4 M.)
ZweiliLtsohinen (2132'; Bar), a village on the right bank of the
Lutschine. The valley of the Black Liitschine to the left ascends to
Grindelwald (p. 163 ; view of the Wetterhorn in the background);
that of the White Lutschine leads in a straight direction to (3^4 M.)
Lauterbrunnen. The valley of Lauterbrunnen begins at the Hunnen-'
fluh , a rock resembling a gigantic round tower, and is bounded by
precipitous limestone rocks, 1000-1500' in height. It derives its
name (lauter Brunnen, 'nothing but springs') from the numerous
streams which descend from the rocks, or from the springs which
rise at their bases in summer.
Interesting excursion to (1 hr.) Isenfluh (3600^ *Pens. Isenfluh, 5 fr.).
About Vs ^' iTom Zweiliitschinen the bridle-path diverges to the right
from the Lauterbrunnen road and ascends the steep W. slope of the valley
(shade after 3 p.m.; a second path ascends by the Sausbach opposite the
JStmnen/luh, see above). Isenfluh commands a splendid view of the Jung-
frau. A still finer view is obtained from the path fbom Isekfluh to Mubrem
(31/2 hrs. ; guide necessary only for novices; from Zweiliitschinen to Miir-
rcn 7 fr.). At the upper end of the village OA hr.) this path turns to the
left and ascends to the (V4 hr.) Sausbach (5060'), and then more steeply
for 26 min. to the Fldsehiealdweid (5608'). Here we turn to the left and
proceed to the chalets of Alpligen (5792'), where we descend. The path,
which commands a fine view of the Jungfrau and its neighbours, next
traverses the PMsehen^Alps , crosses the Pletschbach and the J^isshach,
joins the (IV4 hr.) Lauterbrunnen path, and reaches (36 min.) Milrren (p.
149). — Ascent of the *SuUgg (7914'), 3V2 hrs., see p. 147.
To Wenoen and the Pens. Silberhom (p. 163) a path ascends in s/4 hr.
from the LochmUhH on the Lauterbrunnen road, 21/4 M. from Zweiliitschinen,
crossing the bridge to the left (pleasanter and shorter than the steep path
from Lauterbrunnen).
8 M. Lauterbmnnon (2615'; *8teinhock, R., L., &A. 4, B. IV2,
D. 4 fr.; *H6tel Stauhhach, with view of the Staubbach, R., L., &
A. 3-4 fr. D. 4, fr. ; guides; Christ., Joh, TJlHch, and PeUr
10*
148 Route 45. LAUTERBRUNNEN.
Lauener, Friedr. v. Allmenj Friedr. Oraf, father and son, Friedr.
FuckSy Joh. Oertschy etc.), a pretty, scattered village, lies on both
banks of the Lutschine, in a rocky valley ^2 ^- broad, into which
in July the sun's rays do not penetrate before 7 a.m., and in winter
not till noon. The snow-mountain to the left, rising above the lower
mountains, is the Jungfrau ; to the right is the Breithorn. Carved
wood good and cheap here.
From the rocky heights in the environs are precipitated some
twenty brooks, the best known of which is the *StaiLbbaoh (*du8t-
brook'), 5 min. to the S. of the H6tel Staubbach. This brook, which
is never of great volume , and in dry summers is disappointing,
descends from a projecting rock in a single fall of 980', the greater
part of it, before it reaches the ground, being converted into spray,
which bedews the meadows and trees far and near. In the morning,
in sunshine, it resembles a transparent, silvery veil, wafted to and
fro by the breeze, and frequently tinted with rainbow hues. By
moonlight also it presents a beautiful appearance. The best point
of view is in a meadow in front of the fall, to the left of a seat in-
dicated by a flag (20 c).
Beantiful walk (1V2 hr. there and back) to the fall of the ^Tnimmel-
bach. We follow the Stechelberg road (p. 161) on the right bank of the
Liltschine for VJu M. to the Trummelbach bridge, and diverge to the left,
either on this side of the bridge, or 2 min. beyond it, to the (5 min.) en-
trance of a narrow gorge (rendered accesBlble by steps and railings on both
sides ; adm. 50 c), where the copious stream, fed by the glaciers of the
Jungfran, is precipitated into a round water-worn cauldron. During
sunshine three rainbows are formed in the spray, one above, another op-
posite, and the third below the spectator, a beautiful scene.
46. Upper Valley of Laaterbmnnen. Murren. Fall
of the Schmadribach.
Comp, Map, p. 154.
Bridle-path from Lauterbrunnen to Miirren 2V2i Trachsellauenen 2,
the Schmadri Fall and back 2, Lauterbrunnen 2V2 hrs. — Horse 12 fr.; to
Miirren, Trachsellauenen, and back 15 fr. ; porter from Lauterbrunnen to
Miirren 6 fr. \ chair, for each bearer (4 required), 6 fr. \ sledge (rough)
for 2 pers. from the Pletschbach inn to Lauterbrunnen 5 fr.
One of the finest excursions from Lauterbrunnen is to MOrren and the
Fall of the Schmadribach. The walk takes a whole day, and is fatiguing
if extended to the Upper Steinberg (in which case a boy should be en-
gaged at Trachsellauenen as a guide). If not extended beyond Miirren, which
is the chief point of interest, the excursion may easily be accomplished,
returning by Stechelberg, in 6 hours. To Miirren, GKmmelwald, and Stechel-
berg a bridle-path, thence to Lauterbrunnen (dVs M.) a carriage-road. As
the view from Miirren is finest by evening light, it is preferable to go first
to the Schmadribach, and thence to Miirren, and spend the night there. (The
path is in shade early in the morning and towards evening.)
The path from Lauterbrunnen to (21/2 hrs.) Miirren, which is
very muddy after rain, ascends rapidly to the right about 200 paces
from the Steinbeck Hotel, trends to the right, and crosses the Gf«t/(sn-
bach twice. Beyond the second bridge (20 min.) it ascends through
wood, crosses the FluhbachUy the (20 min.) Lauibach (fine water-
tHi), and the HetTtribdeUi, and
reaches (25 min.] the bridge over
the small PUlaehbach, or Staub-
bach (1037'; Ion). In 5 min.
more, where the wood has been
much thinned, we ohtain a beaiiti-
fal view of the Jnngfrau, MBnch,
and Eiger, which remain in sight
for the rest of the way. Farther
np. by(i/2hcO«8aw-mill(4923'),
we cross two branches of the Spita-
baeh, and in '2b min. more teach
the tap of the hill.
AttbiipolDlamagniflcent'-ViEW
1 ompbitheBtre ormouDlains and
Blader,
Elgeri
BilherboFD.tliefa;
SDddenlT r
dthfM
neb , lbs JnngCrai
Wen goniolp, allhoughtheviowlhEnce
The path, now level, leads a-
crois pastures In l/j hi. more to the
Alpine Tillage of Mftrr«i{53i8'i
'Orand B6t. ^ Kurhaua jKiirren,
R.,L., 4 A. 5-6, B. 1% lonch
3, D. 5, pens, in July and Aug.
9-U, atotherUmea8-13fr. ; "Gr.
Bfit. dea Alpa, similar charges;
Ehp. Ch. Sero.), where the Wet-
terhorn also becomes visible to
the left, and the SeAnen-Furgge
to the extreme light (p. 101].
A mors eitcnsive view i> obtai-
ned trgm Ibe JiJ>n™d*BHI(eS58S '/'
villiae, and from tl
igg&m'i 'h br.J.
rbe path
e hill to tbe left.
150 Boute46, TBAGHSELLAUENEN. Lauterbrunnen
The *8chilthoni (9748'; 3Vs4 hrs., guide 7 fr.) is it very admirable point
of view. The path ascends pastures to the chalets of Allmend (on the right
is the Allmendhubel, see above), and farther up enters the dreary Bngethal,
which ends in a rocky basin at the foot of the Schilthom (to this point,
2V2 brs. from Hiirren, riding is practicable; horse 12 fr.). Then a steep
ascent over snow, loose stones, and rock, past the monument to Mrs.
Arbuthnot, who was killed here by lightning in 1865, to the ardte be-
tween the Kleine and Orosae Schilthom, and without difficulty to the
(1 hr.) flattened summit. Magnificent survey of the Jungfrau, the queen of
the Bernese Alps, and of the whole chain (including the Blilmlisalp, to
the S.W., quite near), and of N. Switzerland (the B-igi^ Pilatus. etc.).
Mont Blanc is not visible hence, but is seen from the arete, about 260 yds.
to the W., a little below the summit. — The descent through the imposing
Sefinenthal (see below), by the Sefinenalp and the Teufelabrileke (a fine
point above Gimmelwald), is longer by IV2 hr. than the direct path, but
far more interesting (unsuitable for ladies). A shorter way back leads
past the Oraue Seeli and down the steep Schilt/lUhe (guide advisable),
and afterwards through the beautiful pastures of the Schiltalp , with
views of the Jungfrau, etc. — Another route (interesting; uide ad-
visable) crosses the Rothe Herd and the Telli (a saddle between the Grosse
Hundshorn and the Wild-Andrist) to the DUrrenberg Chalett in the Kien-
thal (seep. 151.).
From Miirren the path descends to the left; 10 mln., we
cross the Murrenbach; 25 mln., hamlet of Oimmelwald (4547';
*Pens. Schilthom, plain, 5-6 fr.), on the brink of the grand Sefinen--
thai J which is enclosed by the precipices of the Biittlassen, the
Gspaltenhorn, and the Tschlngelgrat.
To the Sefinenthal, an interesting walk (as far as the Gspaltengletscher
and back 3 hrs. ; guide unnecessary). To the W. of the Pens. Schilthom
we cross the (5 min.) 3ehiltb€Kh<t and ascend by a beautiful path on the
left side of the Sefinenthal (with the superb Jungfrau behind us); then
(3/4 hr.) cross a bridge and enter a pine-wood, and lastly, in a grand
basin, with numerous waterfalls, traverse stony debris to the (^4 hr.)
Otpaltenhorn (or Kirchspalt) OlcKier, at the foot of the Gspaltenhom. Back
by the same route.
We next (74 hr.) cross the Sefinen-Lutschine, and ascend a
little, then descend. In 10 mln. more we pass a fine *Fall of the
Seflnen - Liitschine on the left. Beyond a brook descending from
the right, 2 mln. farther on , the path divides : the branch to the
left descends steeply to (^4 ^'^O Steehelberg (see below); that to the
right (finger-post) leads to (50 mln.) Traohsellaal^iien (4144';
Hot, Schmadribachy R. &L. 31/2, B. 1^/2^'.), a cluster of chalets on the
left bank of the Weisse Lutschine. The path, now ill-defined, still
following the left bank, passes (10 mln.) a deserted silver-foundry,
ascends, first to the right and then to the left, ronnd. the projecting
rocks of the Nadla and past the chalets (V2 ^r.) of the Vnter-
Steinberg Alp (4480'), where It crosses (to the left) the Thalbach,
Ascending the pastures on the right bank, we pass a waterfall,
mount the Holdri, and reach (^2 hr.) the Lager-Sennhuttey in sight
of the grand *Sohiiiadribaoh Fall. The stream must be crossed
higher up by those who desire a nearer view, but this takes another
hour, and hardly repays the loss of time. — From the Obere
Steinbergalp (5794^), which Is seen high up on the pastures to
the right (ascent I72 ^^- ^'^m Trachsellauenen ; guide desirable,
VaUey. SBFINEN-PURGGE. 46. BouU. 151
11/2 fr*) J *^® *View is far more imposing; the TscWngel Glacier
lies close to us on the right, and we also obtain a good suivey of the
Schmadri Fall. Adjoining the chalet is a little Inn,
A pleasant walk (guide useful) may be taken from the Obere Steinberg
to the Ttchingel Olaeier^ and across the moraine on its right side to the
(1 hr.) beautiful blue *Oberhorn>ee (6822'), magnificently situated in the
rocky hollow between the Tsehingel and Breithom glaciers.
Fbox Mubkbn to the Obkbb Stsinbsko, direct (3 hrs.; guide 6 fr.)*
About 6 min. beyond the third bridge on the way to Trachsellauenen
(where the path to Stechelberg diverges; i hr. from Miirren, see p. 150)
we diverge to the right, and in 20 min. again turn to the right. Passing
(20 min.) a deserted shaft, we ascend to the right in zigsags (past a good
spring) to (25 min.) a cattle-shed, and cross a precipitous gorge. The
enclosure opposite marks the beginning of the Obere Steinberg-Alp. In
40 min. more we reach the Inn (p. 150), and enjoy a superb view. Descent
across pastures and through wood (Wilde Eck)\ then through a narrow
ravine, stony and steep, and under two timber-slides, to (1 hr.) the chalets
of the Unter- Steinberg (p. 150).
From Trachsellauenen to Lauterbrunnen, 2 hours. At (25 min.)
SicheUauenen we cross the Liltschine, which dashes wildly down its
rocky bed ; and at the (V4 l^i-) Bridge of Stechelberg (3025' ; Inn)
we reach the bottom of the valley and the carriage-road. Near
(3/4M.) Matten, a fall of the Murrenbach to the left. At the (VdM.)
Domige Briicke we keep to the right. We pass (1/2M.) a waterfall
of the Rosenbachy and (5 min. from the road) the interesting fall of
the *Trummelbach (p. 148). Then (1 1/2 M.) Lauterbrunnen (p. 147).
Passes (comp. Map, p. 172). Fbom Lautbbbbunkek ov£B the Sefinen-
FuBGQE TO THE KiBNTHAL, a patb, uot difficult, and on the whole attractive
(10 hrs. to Reichenbach ; guide 22 fr.). From (2V2 hrs.) Miirren (p. 149) the
path ascends over the Sehiltalp and the Wcuenegg, with beautiful view, to
the Alp Boganggen and the (3 hrs.) Seflnen-Furege (8583'), between the
Grosse Hundshom (9620') and the BilUlassen (10,4900. (The path by Gimmel-
wald and through the Sefinenthal is easier, but IVa hr. longer.) Descent
(fine view of the Wilde Frau and Bliimlisalp) to the chalets on the Diirrenberg
(6545'; milk, etc., dear), past the SteinenUrg Alp (4856') to the (2 hrs.) Tschingel-
Alp (3783') in theiSenttal, and by Kienthal to (2V2 hrs.) Reichenbach (p. 171). —
From theSteinenberg-Alp overtheGamcAtWcAie tothe Tsehingelfirn^ see p. 171.
Fbom Lautbbbbunnen to Eandebsteg oveb the Sefinen-Fubgge and
THE Hohthubli , a long and fatiguing walk (14 hrs. •, guide necessary,
25 fr.). The night may, if necessary, be passed at the Diirrenberg chalets
or in the Frauenbalm Hut. Over the SeHnen-Furgge to the Kienthal y see
above. Before the path reaches the Steinenherg Alp we descend to the
left, cross the Poehtenbach (the discharge of the OamchigUtscher^ p. 171),
ascend to the Bundalp^ and traverse pastures, stony slopes, and snow to
(41/2 hrs. from the Furgge) the Hohthiirli or Diinden Pass (8875') , a de-
pression of the Oeschinengrat between the Schwarzhom (9150') and the
Wilde Frau (10,683') , aff"ording a superb view of the Bliimlisalp, Dolden-
hom , etc. (To the left of the pass is the Frauenbalm Club Hut , p. 178.)
We now descend over loose stones and the rocky ledges of the Bchafberg
(with the BlUmlisalp Glacier quite near us on the left) to the Upper Oeschi-
nen-Alp (6470'), and by steep steps cut in the rock, to the Lower Oeschinen-
Aip, pass round the W. side of the Oeschinen-See (5223'), and reach (4 hrs.)
Kandersieg (p. 172).
•Fbom Lautebbbunnen to Kandebsteq oveb the Tschingel Pass
(13 hrs.i 6-7 hrs. on snow and ice; guide 30 fr.), a grand and interesting
route, fatiguing, but for tolerable mountaineers free from difficulty. A
night had better be spent at (2 hrs.) Trachsellauenen or on the (872 hrs.)
Upper Steinberg (see p. 151). We now follow the W. slope of the valley
to the (3/4 hr.) Lower Tsehingel Glacier, cross it, and toil up the left la-
152 RouU 46, . TSCHINQEL PASS.
teral moraine to tbe (i/s hr.) base of the W. roek.8 , the ascent of which
is very steep at first; a nearly perpendicular part, called the Tsehingeltritt^
is about 13' high. Farther np (,w min.) we come to turf (pleasanter; a
halt usually made here \ superb view). Then again across debris in Vs hr.
to the upper TacMnffelflrny an immense expanse of snow \ for 20 min. we
follow the left moraine., and then take to the glacier, where the rope be-
comes necessary. A gradual ascent of !*/« hr. brings us to the top of the
Tschingel Pass (92i>7') , where a view of the mountains of the Gastern-
thal is disclosed; behind us towers the most majestic Jungfrau with her S.
neighbours, and to the left is the Eiger. On the right are the furrowed
OspattenhM'n (11,276') and the QamchUUckt (92t^5' ; pass to the Kienthal,
p. 171). An additional hour may be devoted to visiting the latter, which
affords a striking survey of the Kienthal, the Niesen, and the Bernese
plain. To the left of the Tschingel Pass rises the Mutthom (9978').
The descent across the snow is easy. (The W. arm of the glacier, bound-
ed on the right by the rocky walls of. the Bliimlisalp and the Friinden-
horn, and on the left by the Petersgrat, is called the Kander^m.} After
IV4 hr. we quit the snow for the left lateral moraine. The route de-
scends steeply, over loose stones and then over grass, to the Gastemthal,
passing a spur which overlooks the magnificent ice-faU of the Kander
Glacier (which has receded greatly of late). We then for a considerable
time follow the narrow margin of a huge old moraine, which descends
precipitously on the right to the former bed of the glacier, 170-200' below ;
V/2 hr., bridge over the Kander; 6 min., the first chalet (coffee, milk, and
two beds); V^^'-i Selden\ 2 hrs., Kandersteg (p. 172).
*Frou Lautbbbrdnnen to the Lotschenthal oveb the Petbrsobat
(from Trachsellauenen to Ried 10-11 hrs.), trying, but very grand (guide
40 fr.). From Trachsellauenen to the (3Vs-4 hrs.) upper Tschiageljim, see
p. 161. On the Firn we ascend to the left, between the Mutthom and
the TscMngelhoiti^ to the (3 hrs.) "^Petersgrat (10,516'), a lofty snow-arSte
commanding a superb view of the Alps of Valais. Then a steep descent
over snow, rocky slopes, and turf, either through the Ausser-Fa/leV'Thal
to the Fa/lev Alp (10 min. below the Gletscherstoffel Alp, p. 286), or
through the Telhthal to Blatten and (3V2 hrs.) Ried (p. 176). — The Wet-
terlticke (10,366'), between the Tschingelhom and Breithom, and theSchma-
drijooh (10,863'), between the Breithom and Grosshom, are difficult.
Fbom Lautebbbdnnbn to the Eggishobn over the Lauinenthor (12,000*),
a difficult and hazardous expedition (18 hrs., the night being spent in the
Boththal hut), through the wild Roththaly across the huge rock-arSte con-
necting the Jungfrau (13,670') and Oletacherhom (13,064'), and down the
Kraneberg-Fim and the Great Aletsch Olaeier to the Concordia Hut and
the Eggishom Hotel (p. 293). — Over the Roththal-Battel (12,330*), close
to the Jungfrau (p. 154), also very difficult and dangerous (19-20 hrs. to
the Eggishorn). — Over the Ebnefluhjoch (12,300*), between the JSbn^uh
and MiUaghom, very laborious, but without danger to experts (15-16 hrs.).
— It will repay a good walker to go as far as the Roththal Qub Hut
(8860^) in the Roththal (6 hrs. from Lauterbrunnen, crossing the Btufemtein-
Alp)y and to return the same way (a good day's walk; guide 16 fr.).
47. From Interlaken to Grindelwald. Wengernalp.
Comp. Mape^ pp. 140, 164.
Two routes lead from Interlaken to Grindelwald : the Road by Zwei-
liitschinen and through the Lfttschenthal (I2V2 M.; Diligence twice daily
in 3 hrs., fare 5fr.); and the ''Bbidle Path over the Wengernalp [road
to (8 M.) Lauterbrunnen, p. 147; thence to the Wengernalp 3 (descent 2),
Little Scheidegg 3/4 (descent \'%), Grindelwald 2V2 hrs. (ascent SVs) ; in aU
6V4 hrs. from Lauterbrunnen, or 8-10 hrs. from Interlaken]. The latter
route, one of the finest and most frequented in Switzerland, should cer-
tainlv be chosen in fine weather.
CIabbiage from Interlaken to Grindelwald, 15 fr., there and back in one
y, one-horse 16, two-horse 30 fr., in two days 30 or 50 fr. ; to Lauterbrun-
WENGERNALP. 47. Route, 153
nen and Grindelwald and back in one day 20 or 35, in two days 90 ot 50 fr.;
to Grindelwald via Lauterbrnnnen and the Wengemalp, the horses being
ridden by the travellers over the latter, for one day 20 or 40 fr., for two
days 28 or 65 fr. ^ 6 or 12 fr. extra for conveying the carriage from
Lauterbrnnnen to Grindelwald (3 or 6 fr. in the reverse direction) •, to
Lauterbrnnnen, Murren, the Wengernalp, and Grindelwald and back in
three days, 45 or 80 fr., transport of carr. as above.
HossE from Lauterbrnnnen over the Wengemalp to Grindelwald (or
the reverse) 20 tc. \ Wengernalp and back 12 , Little Seheidegg 14 fr. —
The ascent may be made on horseback, either from Lauterbrunnen or
Grindelwald, but in descending the traveller should dismount at the steep
and stony declivity near Grindelwald, as well as at the last precipitous
descent into the valley of Lauterbrunnep. Sledge from Wengen to Lauter-
brunnen 3 fr. (enquire at the hotels). A shorter route ascends from the
Lochmiihle (near ZweilUtschineUf p. 147) to Wengen. Guide (11 fr.) un-
necessary. Chaises-^porteurs at Lauterbrnnnen and Grindelwald. The in-
terested advice of guides and drivers as to hotels should be disregarded.
i. Tbe Road fhom Intbblasen to Gbindel^ald crosses the
Wdsse Liitschine at (4^/4 M.) Zweilutachinen (p. 147), and then
the Sehwarze Lutschine at Gundliachwand, and gradually ascends
the picturesque, well-wooded Lutsohenthal, enlivened with numer-
ous farm-houses. It then (3 M.) crosses the river four times
within a short distance, and ascends more rapidly (fine retrospec-
tive view) to (IV2 M.) Burglauentn (2995'). The fall of the FalU
bach, on the right, is insignlflcant in summer. About 1 M. farther,
beyond a narrow part of the valley, opens the Grindelwaldthal, en-
closed by imposing mountains (Eiger, Mettenberg, Schreckhorn,
and Wetterhorn). On the right are the grassy and wooded slopes
of the Mannlichen, with the inn on the saddle to the left (p. 157).
Then (21/4 M.) Grindelwald.
ii. Feom Lauterbrunnen to Grindelwald over the Wen-
gernalp. We cross the Lutachine by the Staubbach Hotel, turn to
the left, and after 3 min. ascend to the right. After a steep ascent
of 3/4 hr. we reach a projecting rock with a pavilion which affords
a beautiful view of the Lauterbrunnen Thai. (Adjacent is the small
Hdt.'Pens, Silberhorn, R. 1-2, pens. 4-6 fr. ; direct route to it from the
Lochmiihle, see p. 147.) Farther up, where (20 min.) a flnger-post
shows the way to the right to the (1/4 hr.) *P€n8, Wengen (5-5^2 fr.),
we turn to the left to the (8 min.') Hdt.'- Pens, Mittaghom (5-5^2 frO»
and next reach the (5 min.) *Pens, Alpenrose (5-572 &•) > ^^^ *
new school adjacent. We then ascend the shady pastures of the vill-
age of Wengen f straight towards the precipitous Tschuggen (p. 155),
at the base of which (1/2 hr.; auberge) the path turns to the right;
it then passes a second auberge (famous echo) , skirts the slopes of
the Lauberhom, and enters a pine-wood (marshy at places). On
quitting the wood (40 min.) we avoid the broad path in a straight
direction (which leads to the Mettlenalp, see below), and ascend to
the left, rapidly at first , over the pastures of the ^Wengemalp to
the (3/4 hr.) *H6teiJungfrau (6184'; R., L., & A. 4-5, B. 2, D.
4 fr., telephone to the Seheidegg; carved wood by A. Zurfliih).
Travellers from Lauterbrunnen and Grindelwald generally halt here,
These lerribls
n of vut mnain
1 which, as tlie
) an opportunitj
' I falling nasjes, the spectacle can hardly be called imposing. The uppar-
, ■ ton^o*?^"' "^bTe 'gf M^epiig away "hole toreats and viH^eM, 'but
I : fortunately aesceodtne into the uninhabited TrUvUelen- THal, > deep gorge
' I 1 IWs ■Tut it has since heen undertaken frequently, and though eilremel-
l| ' titigufng, is unattended with danger to eipertj (guides 80fr. each; wil
w1jd™is much faciliUted "by eponding a night in the MUnchhiiU'
I 6>/^■^ hrB. (mm GrindelwaWi thence O'er the Jfancfi^MA and
fraallm to the BalMhal-BatUl (p. 155) 4-4'/i brs., and to Ibe top
J I 'jaoK. (Tmellefa sscendlne from the Beeiahom Hotel epend tli
lllj , the CMardiahmii on the Faulberg. MIT, 6 ^^^f'"" '^-^ »'"*«U Ihenee
ll : ' SofW i," di"!cii? a"d hiii'srdo''u"'' iS IS^ribe Jung™ was ^wcended by s
[I ' new ro>i« from theitolM*ol Clul.-M^AB2h leaving thaRolhth^^t" 'he^rtgW
*i''Th"aLlb«h°n (RIKO w"^L"e£ded' fSr"^e flrll lime jn^863? by
Ed V FillevttTa and A"ofl Batditer (from the Weogem-acbeidegg by tht
m^r, ftwiK, and ffk..fn G/atier., In IS'/i br. i difnoult and IrjriBg.
I'he IteWlenalp (5680'), on Ihe K. nde rf the Trumleten- Thai, afso af
tordaanoblesurveyoftheJunefrau. F ■>.. i"in"»ii™ n.>h..,oii. iu„
fromLanUrhronnen md V. br. from the
the Alp in a Btrafebt direction In '/i h
fu'v^'br'^TwJk rouad''th?he^ o^t the Trunue.e.
Biglenalp and Ibe Knilmtan Oladir, »*""t, "''" .
aagfi Olader has formed > line ice-grotto, rrom me uigienal
'"'TXlMo'''th6*auMihatt. (7972-), at the N.W. base of the Mi
iwBRn (he Siatr and «««■ aiaaen . U recommended to good
wirste'-^Ads^OM h"r'Um the Wenge™-ap " '^« Jl^-e 8,
.■ilb guide). The passage of tho erevassed E.ger Glacier, which
- —end to tb
en -Thai 1
to Qrindnlwald. LITTLE SCHEIDEGG. 47. Route. 155
vanced considerably of late years , and forms a beautifol archway of ice
with a lofty waterfall at its lower end, takes IV2-2 hrs. (step-cutting being
necessary from the middle onwards) ; then a steep climb of IV2 hr. over
rock, debris, and patches of snow to the Club Hut, grandly situated.
Steep descent over the ridges of rock below the Guggi Glacier to the
(iV2 br.) upper end of the Bandlauinentoand , and a somewhat difficult
clamber down this slope to the Biglenalp (p. 154).
A gradual ascent of 35 min. from the Jnngfran Hotel btings ufi
to the summit of the pass, called the Little Scheidegg) Lauterbrun-
nen-Seheideggy or Wengem-Seheidegg (6788'; *H6tel Bellevue^ dear ;
wood-carver Jean Zurfluh). This ridge, which descends abruptly
on both sides, affords a striking view of the valley of Grindelwald,
bounded on the N. by the mountains which separate it from the
Lake of Brienz (to the extreme left is the blunt cone of the Faul-
horn with its inn), and on the S. by the giants of the Oberland, the
Mimch (13,4650, ^i^^** (^3,042'), and Schreckhorn (13,386'). The
Fin8teraarhom(jp. 169). the highest of the Bernese Alps, is not visible.
The *Laaberhom (81!2(y), a peak rising from the ridge which runs to
the IS. from the Scheidegg to the Hannlichen , may be ascended in 1 hr.,
or from the Wengemalp in IV2 hr. (descent 1 hr.). This ascent is chiefly
recommended to those who have not visited the Faulhom. View extensive
and imposing. Travellers from Grindelwald add only iVa hr. to their walk
by taking the route from the Scheidegg to the Hotel Jungfrau over the Lau-
berhom. Guide hardly necessary. — The Tschuggen (8278'; ascent more
fatiguing), which rises to the N. of the Lauberhom, commands a more ex-
tensive, but less picturesque view. — Or the traveller may walk from the
Scheidegg along the £. slope of the Tschuggen to the (2V2-3 hrs.) *'Mftnn-
lichen Oiidi% the X. summit of this ridge (p. 167). In this case the walk
from Lauterbrunnen to Grindelwald will take 9-10 hrs. The Hannlichen
may also be ascended (with guide; steep but not difficult) direct from
Wengen, in which case the way is not longer than over the Wengemalp
to Grindelwald. — The Fallbodenhubel (7136'), reached in Vs hr. by as-
cending the pastures to the S. of the Scheidegg, affords a fine survey of
the Eiger and Guggi Glaciers. — To the Ouggi Club Hui^ see p. 154.
The descent to Grindelwald traverses stony slopes, poor pastures,
and sparse wood, passing the (1/4 hr.) Chalets of Mettlen (6250')
and (3/4 hr.) those of Alpiglen (5287'; •H6t. des Alpes), on a com-r
manding terrace. (The direct path hence 'to the Eismeer' is inter-
esting and repaying, but should be attempted only by experts with
guides, ice-axes, and ropes.) Below Alpiglen (8/4 hr.), we leave
the bridle-path, which leads straight into a hollow, descend t)y the
path to the left, through enclosed meadows with scattered cottages
to the (20 min.) bridge over the Liitschiney and then gradually
ascend in 20 min. more to the high-road. (Travellers from Grindel-
wald to the Wengemalp ascend to the right at the bridge.)
From the Little Scheidegg to Grindelwald a Footpath, pleasanter than
the above route, skirts the left bank of the Wergisthalbach , commanding
fine views, and leading for 1 hr. through pine-forest. Guide advisable.
Grindelwald. — *BiR, at the W. end of the village, R., L., <fe A. 41/2-5,
B. 172, D. 4, pens. 10 fr.^ *Schwabzbr Adleb , at the £. end, with a
pleasant garden, similar charges *, Hot. Eiger, in the middle of the village,
same charges: Hot. du Glacier, outside the village, near the W. end, B.
from 2'/2, B. IV2, I>-4, A. 1, pens. 8 fr.5 *H6t.-Pens. Burgener, moderate,
E. 2, B. IV4 fr. s *HdT.-PBN8. Alpenruhe, R. IV2, pens. 8fr. 5 'Pension Schon-
EGG, by the post-office, with garden, pens. SVzfr. — Guides: Petei- iSchlegely
Christian and Ulrich Aimer, Peter Baumann ('am Guggen'), Chr. Bohren,
IbQ Routed?. GRINDELWALD. Upper OlacUr,
Riid. Kaufmann (two of the name), Peter and Ulr. Kanfinawn^ Chr. Jo*$%^
and many others. — Fees mentioned in the description of each excursion.
Orindelwald (3468'; pop. 3089), properly Oydisdorf, a large
village of widely scattered houses, is an excellent starting-point for
mountain excursions, and also a favourite summer resort, the situa-
tion being sheltered and healthful.
This place chiefly owes its repute to its two Olaoiers ; but these
are very inferior to the Rhone Glacier and many others in Switzer-
land. Three gigantic mountains bound the valley on the S., the
-^ Eiger (13,042'}Athe Me^&rtherg (10,197'), which forms the base of
the Schreckhom, and the WeWer/wm (12,160'), Between these lie
the two glaciers, which form the source of the Black LutscKine.
y To visit the *Upper Glacier (4330' at the base) we follow the
Great Scheidegg path (p. 160) as far as the (1 hr.) HdtelWetterhom
(p. 160 ; horse there and back 8fr.), near which we pass a memor-
ial to Dr. A. HaUer of Burgdorf and two guides, who perished on
the Lauteraar glaciers in 1880. Here we diverge to the right, cross
the Liitschine and the moraine, skirt the rock to the right, and in
10 min. reach the artificially hewn Ice Grotto (adm. 1/2 fr.).
Another way back to Grindelwald (guide not indispensable) is by a
path diverging before the bridge over the Liitschine, and ascending the
left moraine to the Chalet Milchbach (aubei^e; visible from below, also
reached by a direct but rather giddy path from the grotto), which af-
fords a good view of the ice-fall. The path then enters the wood to the
right, where it is ill-defined, passing between the Mettenberg and the wooded
^Hals\ and then, becoming well marked, descends on the left bank of the
Liitschine and across the Sulz to (IV4 hr.) Grindelwald. — From the Cha-
let Milchbach we may, by means of ladders (not recommended to novices ;
guide necessary), ascend several rocks on the N.E. slope of the Metten-
berg, pass through the Mileltbeiehloch and a natural tunnel formed by an
old glacier-stream (sometimes barred by the ice), and reach the glacier
opposite the Schlupf. We may return by the same route; or we may cross
the glacier and the Enge at the liT.W. angle of the Wetterhorn, and reach
the Great Scheidegg or regain the Hotel Wetterhorn by a dizzy path
(2V2-3 hrs. in all).
The^Eiiboden (4400*), a beautiful, shady pasture, 10 min. E. of the Hdt.
Wetterhorn, and close to the base of the Wetterhorn. affords a noble
survey of the glacier, Mettenberg, Schreckhorner, and Grindelwald Valley.
To the Lower Glacier (3543' at the base), which is much larger
than the upper, a bridle-path descends to the right by the church
and crosses the Liitschine, and then ascends to the right through
underwood and over d^ris. (The path to the left leads to the Bar-
egg; see below.) The retrogression of the glacier has exposed to
view an interesting Qorge of the LutschinCj which has been rendered
accessible by means of wooden galleries and steps (Y2 ^f* ^^om
Grindelwald ; 1/2 ^'O- A. bridle-path ascends the left lateral mo-
raine to the (72 hr. j upper part of the glacier, where there is an
artificial Ice Orotto (50 c). Interesting excursion thence across the
crevassed glacier to the Baregg (guides with rope and ice-axe ne-
cessary). In years when ice is scarce, this glacier serves as an ice-
luarry, the blocks being carried away on sledges and by a tramway.
Excursions. GBINDELWALD. 47. Route. 157
— In returning from the gorge of the Lutschine we may follow the
tramway and cross the lower hridge at the W. end of the village.
A visit to the lower ^Eismeer (^sea of ice'), the large basin of
n^v<f in which the glacier accumulates before it descends to the
valley, is interesting. A narrow, and towards the end rough and
difficult path (guide necessary for the inexperienced ; to Baregg 7,
Zasenberg 10 fr. ; horse to a point ^2 ^r* below Baregg 10 fr., not
advisable) ascends the slope to the left to the (2 hrs.) small Inn
on the Baregg (5412'), commanding a fine survey of the glacier, to
which a steep Aight of steps descends. (Fee of 1 fr. for the use
of the wretched path, whether the glacier itself is visited or not.)
Glacieb Expedition. The following eaay walk will make the trav-
eller more familiar with this icy region. We cross (1 hr., with guide) the
Bismeer to the stone chalet of Zllsenberg (6050'), surrounded by pastures,
and occupied by shepherds in summer. Vegetation soon disappears. On
every side tower huge and wild masses of ice, and the view is bounded
by the imposing summits of the Eiger, Schreckhdmer, Fiescherhorner, etc.
If the traveller does not go beyond the middle of the Eismeer (sufficiently
far), the whole excursion may easily be accomplished from Grindelwald
and back in 5 hrs. — The ascent of the '^ Zd»ef^erghom (7687'; magnificent
survey of the glaciers) takes Vh hr. from the Zasenberg (guide 12 fr.).
— The Eigerhiihle, a grotto visible from the Zasenberg (2 hrs.; fatiguing;
with guide) may also be visited. — Lastly, an interesting trip may be
made from the Baregg to the Zasenberffhom^ Fie»cherjim, and Exgerhdhle^
and back by the Kalli (p. 158; 5-6 hrs.. or from Grindelwald 10 hrs.).
The ^Kftnnliehen (7694') is ascended from Grindelwald without diffi-
culty in 4 hrs. (horse 15 fr. ; guide 10 fr., unnecessary). Our path diverges
to the right from the Little Scheidegg path, after the Lutschine is crossed,
and ascends by the JtramerirAlp. Admirable panorama, from the Uri-
Bothstock and Titlis to the Bliimlisalp. About 20 min. beiow the summit,
on the depression between the Hannlichen and Tschuggen (p. 153). is the
small E6tel Grindelwald - Rigi (R. & A. 41/2, B. 2, D. 41/2 fr.; 7190'). —
From the Little Scheidegg (p. 155) we may ascend the Mannlichen by
skirting the E. slope of the Tschuggen (2V2-3 hr.; with guide). From
Wengen (p. 153) a steep path ascends in 2V2 hrs.
The "Mettenherg (Mittelbtrg^ 10,1970 is recommended to mountaineers
(laborious, 6 hrs. ; guide 25 fr., from Baregg 12 fr.). Host imposing view of
the Schreckhom, rising in the immediate vicinity, and of the Finsteraarhom;
also a striking survey of the Eismeer and the valley of Grindelwald.
Ascent of the Jung/rau^ p. 154; Fiiuteraarhorn , p. 169; Wetterhoith^
p. 160. — Gross-Bohreckhorn (13,886'; from the SchuMxrzegghUtts 7-8 hrs.;
guide 100 fr.), ascended for the first time by Mr. Leslie Stephen in 1861,
very difficult. — H5nch (13,465'; first scaled by Dr. Forges of Vienna in
1857), ascended either from the MdnchMtte by the MSnchjoch (p. 153),
or from the OvggihUUe (p. 155) by the Ouggi Olcteier and the Jung/rau-
joch in 8 9 hrs. (guide 80 fr.). — Eiger (13,042'; first ascended by Mr. Ch.
Barrington in 1858), from the Wengemalp by the Eiger Glacier and up
the W. arSte, 9-10 hrs. (guide 70 fr.). All these are for thorough adepts only.
Passes. To thb Gbimsbl Hospicb over the ^Strahlegg (10,994'; 14 hrs.;
two guides, 40 fr. each), a grand, but toilsome route. The night is passed
at the B®g (see above), or better in the Schtoarzegg-Butte (82CI0') by
the upper Eismeer, 5 hrs. from Grindelwald. Thence a steep ascent over
ice and rock to the (3 hrs.) pass, lying between the Gross-Lauteraarhom
and the Strahlegghomer ; descent over i\L& Strtihltggfm and ila^ Finsteraar
and Uhteraar Olaeiers to the (3 hrs.) Pavilion Dollfus (p. 169) , and the
(3 hrs.) Orinuel Hoipice (p. 168). In the reverse direction (especially if a
night be spent in the Pav. Dollfus) the route is less trying and mure in-
teresting. — Finsteraarjoch (11,024'; 15-16 hrs.; guides 40 fr. each), between
the Strahlegghomer and the Agassizhom, very trying, with splendid views
158 Route 48, FAULHORN.
of the Finsteraarborn, etc. — Lauteraar-Sattel (10,364'; 16-17 hrs.; guides
40 fr. each), between the Schreckhomer and the Berglistock, a fatiguing
pass, but without serious difficulty to proficienta. The night is spent in *
the Wetterhom^HiUte (p. 160); thence we ascend the Ober« OrindeltBald-
Firn in 5-6 hrs. to the pass , which affords a grand survey of the Gross-
Schreckhom, Lauteraarhom, etc. ; we then descend a steep rocky slope to
the Laitteraarftm (crossing a wide *Bergschmnd' or chasm) and the (3 hrs.)
Pav. Dollfns (p. 169). — Over the BtrglirJoch to the Urbachthal, see p. 166.
Passes fboh Gbindelwald to thb Eooisbosn (p. 293), for experts
only, with able guides. The Jungfraujoch (11,(^9'; guides 60 fr. each),
between the Jungfrau and Monch , leading from the Wengemalp to the
Eggishom Hotel in I6V2 hrs., is very difficult and trying. A night is
spent in the OuggihiUte (p. 164) , and the Ouggi OlaHer is then ascended.
— The passage of the Kdnchjoch (11,910^! guides 60 fr. each), 15 hrs. |
from Grindelwald to the hotel, also very difficult, is facilitated by spend-
ing a night in the MdnehMtte (see below), or when the journey is made in
the reverse direction, in the ConcordiahiUte (p. 154). This is comparatively
the easiest and finest of these glacier expeditions. From the Baregg we
cross the lower Eismeer to the opposite moraine, and ascend the precipitous
Kalli for 2Vs ^ns- i then cross the much crevassed Chrindelwald > Fiescher
Glacier to the (61/8-7 hrs. from Grindelwald) MtfnehhOtte on the Bergli
(9745'), commanding a grand though not extensive view of the Fiescher-
wand, Schreckhomer, Wetterhom, etc. From the hut a steep climb of '^
2 hrs. over rock and glacier to the (2 hrs.) UnUr-M9nchJoth (11,910*),
between the Honch and Fieschergrat; thence either to the right over the
Ober-Mdnchjoch (11,980'), between the Mdnch and Trugberg, to the Jung- )
fraufim (p. 154) and down to the Oreat AleUeh Olaeier and (5-6 hrs.) Eg-
gishom Hotel; or to the left, over the vast Etoig-Schnee/eld to the Aletsch y
Glacier (the two routes unite at the Concordia Hui). — The Bigerjoeh ]
(11,8740, between the Eiger and Honch, 22 hrs. from the Wengemalp to
the Eggishom, a night being spent in the QuggihUite (see p. 154), whence V
the Eiger Glacier is ascended, is very difficult. — The Fieadiexioch or \
Oohsenjoch (about 11,700"), E. of the Kleine Fieteherham^ or Och$ (12,812*),
22 hrs. from Grindelwald to the Eggishom, is very toilsome and lacks ^
interest. £
48. The Fanlhom. I
Comp. ifiop, p. 164. I
Ascent of the Faulhom fronl Grindelwald 4B/4 (descent 3) hrs. ; from :
the Faulhom to the Great Scheidegg 3 (ascent 4) hrs. ; from the Scheidegg to j
Grindelwald 2 (ascent 3) hrs. — Ascent of the Faulhom from Interlaken by '
the Scheinige Platte (p. 146) 8 hrs.; to the Platte 4 hrs. (descent 2Yt), thence ^^
to the Faulhom 4 (descent 3) hrs. — Guide (10 fr. from Grindelwald and !
back ; if a night be spent at the top, 13 fr. ; or a boy for 5 fr.) unnecessary.
Chair-earriert 6 fr. each ; if they pass the night on the top, 12 fr. (three
generally suffice ; a bargain should be made beforehand). Horse from Grin-
delwald and back 17 (or with one night out, 25) fr.; to the top and back
by the Great Sclieidegg 30, with descent to Meiringen 35 fr. ; from Inter- j
laken by the Scheinige Platte to the Faulhorn and back 35^ with descent
by Grindelwald 45 fr. ; from Meiringen to the Faulhorn 25 fr. — Inn on '
the summit (bed 5 fr.).
The ^Faulhom (8803 Q, rising between the Lake of Brienz and
the valley of Grindelwald, and composed of black, friable, calcareous
schist (the name being probably deriyed from faul, 'rotten'), is a
very favourite point of view, as it commands an admirable survey ,
of the giants of the Bernese Oberland (see Panorama). To the N.,
at our feet, lies the Lake of Brienz, with its surrounding mountains,
from the Augstmatthorn to the Rothhorn ; part of the Lake of Thun, '
Tith the Niesen and Stockhorn, is also visible j to the N.E. are
A
m
FAULHORN.
48. Route, t59
parts of the Lakes of Lucerne and Zng, with Pilatus and the Bigi ;
then the Lakes of Morat and Neuchatel. The prospect does not,
however, embrace the hill -country of N. Switzerland, which so
greatly enhances the beauty of the view from the Rigi.
The Path fbom Geindblwald to the Faulhobn (43/4 hrs. pleads
for 3/4 hr. through enclosed meadows and past detached houses. From
the Bar Hotel we cross the road, pass a house on the right, and
after 50 paces pass through a gate, (Those who leave the Bar by
the yard-gate to the right should note that beyond the road they
follow the lower path to the left.) After 5 min., to the right;
10 min., at a cross-way, straight on; 5 min., to the right; 2 min.,
to the left past a cottage; then generally towards the E. The
footpath soon unites with the bridle-path; 1/2 ^r., a gate, then a
wood, which we quit in 10 min. ; V4hr., the Hertenhuhl (5157'), a
large pasture with several chalets, in the middle of which the path
turns sharply to the left, ascending past a little cabaret into
(10 min.) wood; 10 min., to the right, past a small pond; 20 min.,
the path divides for persons descending (who here keep to the left) ;
a little farther, a gate; 25 min., Waldspitz (Q200' ] H6t. -Pens.
Alpenrose), with a splendid view. This point is near^ half-
way, the other half is less steep. To the left (20 min.) a pi%ty fall
of the Muhlibachj which we cross near the chalets of the^Bach-
Alp (6496'). Good drinking-water issues abundantly from the rock,
10 min. farther. Then a moderate ascent of ^/^ hr. to the Bachalp-
See (7428'), in a stony basin, bounded on the left by the Rothihom
(90520 and Simdihom (9030'), and on the right by the Ritzengrdtli
(8282'). (By the stone hut the path diverges to the left for travel-
lers descending to the Scheidegg, see below.) The top of thie Faul-
horn is now in view. The path , indicated by stakes for guidance
in fog or snow, ascends rapidly for nearly 1 hr. over crumbling slate
and limestone. We pass another stone hut, cross the pastures at
the foot of the peak, and reach the top by a zigzag path in ^4 ^r-
more. The Inn (see above) lies on the S. side, 35' below the summit.
The Path fboh Gbindblwald to the Fatilhobn by the Bvssalp is
recommended for the retum-ronte to Grindelwald (guide necessary). Ad-
mirable view from the '•Burg^ (7247'), which of itself merits a visit from
Grindelwald (2V2 hrs.).
The Path from the Faulhorn to thb Scheidego (3 hrs.) di-
verges to the left from the Grindelwald path, near the p/4hr.) hut
on the Bachalp-See, traverses the stony slopes of the Ritzengratlij
where the shrill cry of the marmot is sometimes heard, and keeps
nearly the same level for some distance ; Y2 hr., a gate between the
Bach-Alp and the Widderfeld-Alp ; 5 min. farther, to the left, not
down the bed of the brook; 10 min., the *First', a ridge gtf^rding
a magnificent view of the Wetterhorn, Schreckhorn, Finsteraarhorn,
Grindelwald-Fiescherhorner, with their glacier , the Eigef, and the
valley of Grindelwald ; 8 min., we keep to the left and cross the
brook; 7 min., we descend to the left over black, crumbling slate,
<- 1'
160 RouU49. WETTERHORN.
and reach a gate where the Orindelalp begins. The path is now lost
at places , bat soon becomes more distinct , the direction being
slightly to the left of the Wetterhorn ; 1/4 hr. , a small brook is
crossed, and the path is now well defined ; 0 min., a brook ; 10 min.,
a natural bridge over the Bergelbach; 5 min., the Obere Orindelalp
(6410'), with a spring; V4 ^'-j * S*te> ^^^ ^e turn to the right
on this side of the enclosure, pass through the next gate (12 min.),
and make for the top of a hill ; 8 min., Scheidegg Inn.
In ascending from the Scheidegg, be careful not to turn to the left at
the bridge over the Bergelbach; farther on, where the path ia lost on the
pastures, again avoid turning to the left, follow a direction parallel with
a long enclosure lying a little to the left, and make for the slope of the
mountain, at the foot of which the path is regained.
The view from the Faulhom is partially intercepted by the neigh-
bouring group of the aimelihom C^COff) and the Efithihom (9052^) , rising
between the Finsteraarhom and the Schreckhom, and, though not without
picturesque effect, concealing part of the Alpine chain, the valley of
Orindelwald, and the two glacier-tongues. The latter, from which the
magnificent view is uninterrupted, is easily ascended from the Bachalp-See
in 11/2 hr. (guide advisable).
The view is still grander and more extensive from the *8chwanhom
(9613'), which, with the Wildgerst (9488'), intercepts the view from the Faul-
hom on the E. side. (The lakes of Lungem^ Samen, Alpnach, and Kiisnacht
are visillle hence, all lying in the same line.) The ascent is made from
the Qr^ Scheidegg by the Orindelalp and the Krinnenboden in 8>/r4 hrs.;
or front Rosenlaui by the upper Breitenboden-Alp (6660*), to which there
is a brvlle-path, and the little Blaue QleUcher^ in 6-6V2 hrs. ^ or from Ax-
alp (p. 166) in 4-5 hrs. (guide 12 fr.).
Fbom thk Scheiniob Platte to the Faulhosn, see p. 146. In descend-
ing from the Faulhom, the path is easily found if we are shown the
beginning of it and follow the direction indicated by heaps of stones. The
only doubtful point is 1 hr. beyond the S&gitthal-See (p. 146), or 10 min.
beyond the top of the ridge bounding the Sagisthal on the W. , where we
keep to the right at the same level, instead of descending to the left.
Ascent of the Faulhom from the Oiessbach^ 6 hrs., see p. 166.
49. From Orindelwald to Meiringen. Baths of Bosen-
" lani. Falls of the Eeichenbach.
Cotnp. Map, p. 16i.
6>/4 hrs. : From Grindelwald to the Great Scheidegg 3 (descent 2) hrs.,
from the Scheideck to Rosenlaui ls/4 (ascent 2>/2) hrs. , from Rosenlaui to
Meiringen 2 (ascent 3) hours. Guide (unnecessary) 12 fr. \ by the Faul-
hom and Scheideck 21 fr. ; hone 25 fr. •, from Meiringen to Rosenlaui 12,
Scheidegg 15 fr. — Riding practicable the whole way, but the Reichen-
bach Falls must be visited on foot.
The path (footpath to the right, 1 min. beyond Grindelwald
church) ascends gradually through rich pastures, passing the (1 hr.)
*H6tel fre<(cr/iorn (path to the Upper Orindelwald Olacier,p. 156).
In the foreground towers the magnificent and almost perpendi-
cular ^Wetterhorn (12,150'), with its three peaks.
Th# W. peak, the Vordere Wetterhorn or Hasli-Jungfrau (12,160'), and
the E. peak {Rotenhom, 12,110') were first ascended in 1844, and the
Mittelhom (12,165') the following year. The ascent has often been made
since, and is free from serious difficulty, though requiring perseverance
and a steady head (guides 60 fr. each). The night is spent in the Wetter-
■>rn Hut (7695'), above the Oleeksiein (752(0) on the arete descending from
1
GREAT SCHEIDEGG. 49. Route, 161
the Wetterhorn to the Upper Grindelwald Glacieir, 4V2 hrs. from Grindel-
wald. Thence over the Krinnen-Fim and the Bditeli to the W. peak
5-6 hrs. — Descent to the Do»»9n Hut (and Rosenlaui or Innertkirchen),
eee pp. 161, 166. — From the Wetterhorn Hut over the Bergli-Joeh to
the Urbaehtkca^ see p. 166. From the BergUstoek (12,000'), to the right of
&e Berglijoch (4Vs-5 hrs. from the cluh-hut), a superb view of the Schreck-
homer, Wetterhomer, etc.
Avalanches descend in spring from the Wetterhorn in four
different directions, the snow sometimes extending to the path at
places and remaining nnmelted in summer. As travellers pass the
(IY2 ^'O Obere Lauehbuhlhutte (5900') they are greeted with a
blast of the Alpine horn, an instrument of bark or wood, 6-8' long,
the not unpleasing notes of which are echoed a few seconds later by
the precipices of the Wetterhorn.
The (V2 ^O C^reat Scheidegg or Hasli-Scheidegg (6434'; Jnn,
R. & L. 3Y2j ^' 3V2 ^r* j Jiorse to the Faulhorn, 4 hrs., 12 fr.),
also called the EseUruckeny a ridge 1 M. long and only a few paces
broad, commands a striking view towards the W. The smiling valley
of Grindelwald, bounded on the S.W. by the pastures and woods
of the Little Scheidegg, contrasts picturesquely with the bare pre-
cipices of the Wetterhorn, which tower above us to a giddy height.
To the S.W. of the Wetterhorn are the Mettenberg, Fieschergrat,
Monch , Eiger , and lastly the Tschingelgrat , Gspaltenhorn , and
Bliimlisalp. Towards the N. the view is intercepted by the sombre
Schwarzhorn and other peaks of the Faulhorn chain. High up on
the right, between the Wetterhorn and Wellborn, lies the Schwarz-
wald Glacier J which has greatly decreased of late.
Travellers from Meiringen who do not wish to ascend the Faulhorn
should at least follow tiie Faulhorn path as far as (V2 hr.) the Obere Ch-in-
deleiip (p. 159), in order to obtain a {rand view of the Schreckhorn , the
Upper Grindelwald Giacier, and the Fieschergrat. From the Grindelalp
the direct descent to Grindelwald (beyond the fountain follow the Faulhorn
path for 5 min. more, then turn to left) is not longer than from the Schei-
degg. — Sehwart^m^ see p. 160.
Immediately below the Scheidegg we turn to the left and soon
enter a wood. On the right are the precipices of the Wellborn,
with the Schwarzwald Glacier. This part of the route, passing
several chalets, is attractive and varied. We next reach (1 hr.) the
*H6tel-Pen9ion zum SchwarzwiUdgleUcher, finely situated; then
cross the Gemsbctch, and on the Breitenboden-Alp reach the BeieheU'-
bach J where the path divides. The path to the left, affording
glimpses of the Rosenlaui Glacier, follows the left bank of the Rei-
chenbach, and leads in Y2 h^- *o the Gschwandenmad-Alp (p. 162);
that to the right (Y4 hr. longer) crosses the Reichenbach, which
forms a fine cascade near Rosenlaui , and leads on the right bank
to the (20 min.) to the Bathi of Rosenlaui (4363' ; *Hot. ^ Pens. ,
R., L., & A. 33/4, pens. 8 fr. ; Alpine plants and carved wood).
Before the Baths are reached, at the point where the forest is quitted,
a path to the ri^t leads to the Rosenlaui Glacier, imbedded between
the Wellhom (10,W) and the Engelhom (91330, and famed for the beauty
and puritv of its ice. Of late years it has receded so much that an
ascent of {1/2-2 hrs. , very rough towards the end, must be made in order
Basdkkbb, Switzerland. 12th Edition. 11
162 Route 49, MEIRINGEN.
to obtain a survey of it^ but the grand rock-scenery will in itself repay
the fatigue.
Above Bosenlaui lies the Boaienhiltte (8856' ■, 6 hrs.), grandly situated,
an interesting point for good mountaineers (reached also from Im-Hof
through the Urbachthal in Shrs., see p. 166). In 1884 the hut was taken
down, and in 18S6 rebuilt on the Obtre WeiUattel^ lower down. This is
the starting-point for the Dossenhom (10,303'; 1 hr.), the Renfenhom (iQJTT^
2V2hrs.)i the ffangend-OUttckerAom iiOfiKyy ihrs.), and above all for the
Wetterhorn (12,149' ; 4 hrs.). Descent from the Wetterhoru to the (3>^ hrs.)
Wefterhorn Hut and (3'/2 hrs.) Grindelwald, see p. 160- — From the Dossen
Hut we may cross the Wetterlimmi (10,443'), the Oauli Glacier^ and the
GatUi Pau (10,260*) to the Grimsel, 10 hrs., fatiguing ; with this route the as-
cent of the Ewigschneehorn is easily combined (p. 169).
The path to Melringen now follows the Reichenbach. It leads
at first through underwood , and then traverses the ^Qschwanden"
mad' Alp ^ a beautiful pasture, enclosed by forest, a favourite resort
of artists. (The first bridge must not be crossed.) The bare Engel-
horner, the grand Bosenlaui Glacier between the Dossenhorn and
the Wellhorn , and the snow-clad cone of the Wetterhorn to the
right, together with the beautiful foreground, present a picture un-
surpassed in Switzerland, and most striking when approached from
Melringen.
At the end of the Gschwandenmad-Alp, 25 min. from the Baths,
the Reichenbach is crossed for the last time. Following the right
bank, the path passes (1/4'hr.) a saw-mill and auberge , and soon
descends rapidly. Pleasant view of the Hasli-Thal and the moun-
tains surrounding the Brilnig and Susten. On the brink of the
slope, 1 hr. from Rosenlaui, is the small inn Zur Zwirgi (3202Q. A
path diverges here to the left to a narrow gorge of the hrawling
Reichenbach, spanned by a wooden bridge (30 c; not worth yisit-
ing). Farther on (5 min.) , another path , descending in steps,
diverges to the left from the bridle-path to the ^alls of theSelchen-
baeh. It leads at first through wood , and then to the left across a
meadow, to a hut (adm. ^2 ^'0' ^^^ ^®^^ point for seeing the * Upper
Fcdl with its beautiful jets. In the morning the sun shines into
the gorge and forms innumerable rainbows. The Central Fall (Kessel'
fall) is guarded by another hut (25c.). At the foot of the hill is
the *H6tel Reichenbach (see below), from which a path leads to the
(1/4 hr.) Lower FaU (illumination every evening in summer). From
the hotel we cross the WiUigenhrucke to (V4 hr.) Melringen (2 hrs.
from Rosenlaui).
The falls are seen to the best advantage in the reverse direction,
ascending to the lef( by the Hdt. R^ehenbach, and reaching the highest
fall in s/4 hr. from Melringen. Farther on, as Rosenlaui is approached,
the Wetterhorn and the Wellborn form a strikingly beautiful background.
Travellers from Rosenlaui to Ik-Hof (the Grimsel, Engstlenalp, etc.),
may, omitting the Falls of the Reichenbach and Melringen , save nearly
an hour by following the bridle-path for 5 min. beyond the path to the
falls, and then turning to the right by a footpath to the village of (25 min.)
Geiss\olz (26280, hidden among fruit-trees. Here we ascend the pastures,
and then rapidly descend the Kirchet (p. 166) to (40 min.) Im-Bof (p. 166).
Melringen. — "^HdiEL du Sauvage (Zum Wildenmann)^ a large house
with garden, R., L., & A. 4^2, D. 41/2 fr.-, 'Kbonk, R. & A. 2-2»/8, D. 3 fr.j
BBIENZ. 60. Route, 163
'^'Bab, R., L., & A. 3, Bi- 1, D. 2V3f pens. 5 fr.; "^IldT. Rsichinbach, on the
opposite bank of the Aare, R., L., A A. 3Vsi B. 4fr. ; Pens, zum Stbin,
moderate; Pens. Michel (brewery). — English Church Service in the Hot.
du SauTage. — Odidbs : Melchior and Peter Anderegg^ Joh. v. Bergen Jr.,
Kaspar and Jae. Blatter^ Joh. TUnnler, Kaspar Moor., Ka^cu' Maurer^
Kaspar Btreich, Joh. and Andr. Jaun, Franz 6 lamer, etc.
Meiringen (1968'; pop. 2805), the chief village of the Haslithal,
lies on the right bank of the Aare^ In a level valley 3 M. in viridth,
snrronnded by wooded mountains, above v^rhich rise several snowy
peaks. The MuhUbachy Alpbach , and Dorfbach, descending from
the Hasliberg at the back of the village, form considerable waterfalls
(illuminated every evening in summer). They often overflow their
banks, and cover the whole district with rocks, mud, and the slaty
debris of the Hasliberg. In order to afford a better outlet for these
torrents the Aare below Meiringen has been converted into a canal,
on both sides of which there are still extensive traces of their
devastations.
The Ha8li-Thal (or Hasli im Weitsland) is divided by the Kirchet (p. 166)
into tiie Untere and 06er€ Hasli. The inhabitants are generally of a slight,
but strong and active frame, and are remarkable for their picturesque
costume and pure dialect. According to tradition, they are of Swedish or
Frisian descent, and the opinions of several modem Swedish savants in
favour of this theory are recorded in a book kept at Meiringen.
On the Hasliberg, 'A hr. to the X. of Meiringen , is the *H6t. Pens.
Alpha^h (dV2-8 fr.), with a charming view, and 1 hr. farther (good path
by Golderen and Wasserwendi) lies the village of Hohjluh (3443^ ^Frau
Willy's Pension, unpretending), another fine point of view. (Hohfluh may
also be reached direct from Meiringen by Unterjlvh in IVz hr.) From this
point the *Bohen$follen OSiSO': splendid view) may be ascended by the
Bal'sa'p and the Fntttpass in 4 hrs. (with guides from the H6t. Alpbach
7fr.), or from Meiringen direct, by the MSgtsalp and the Faulenberg in 5 hrs.
From Meiringen over the Brunig to Lucerne, see R. 36.
50. Prom Meiringen to Interlaken. Lake of Brienz,
Comp. Map, p. 140.
From Meiringen to Brienz (8 M.) Dilioencs three times daily in IVs hr.
(2 fr. 15 c. , coup^ 2 fr. 80 c); one-horse carr. 6-7 fr. \ to Interlaken 18, two-
horse 36 fir. — From Brienz (two quays, 'Brienz Post' beside the Weissc
Kreuz and 'Brienz Dorf beside the Bar) to Bonigen Steahboat 4 times
daily in 1 hr. , fare 2 or 1 fr. ; luggage additional, 50c. for each box.
From Bonigen to Interlaken Railway (comp. p. 138) in 12 min., fare 80 c.
or 40 c. — Travellers going to a hotel at the E. end of the HSheweg may
alight at the Zollhaus station (comp. p. 164). Through-tickets to Inter-
laken may be obtained at Lucerne and Meiringen, and on board the steamers.
Beyond Meiringen tbe road crosses the Aare, The beautiful
OlUchibach and other cascades fall from the precipices on the left.
Below (5 M.) Brienzwyler (p. 119), where the road joins the Briinig
route, we again cross the Aare (H6tel Balmhof, moderate). The once
fertile banks of the Lake of Brienz , which now becomes visible to
the W., are strewn with rocks. In 1797 a mud-stream destroyed a
great part of the villages of Schwanden and Hofstetten, which belong
to Brienz. We next reach (3 M.) —
8 M. Briens (pop. 2757 ; Weisaes Kreuz, with garden, the start-
ing-point of the Briinig diligence, R., L., & A. 3, B. IV2 ^r; Bar.
a*
164 Route 50. LAKE OF BRIENZ.
with garden on the lake, well spoken of; TtUj rastic), a consider-
ahle place, consisting of the contiguons villages of Brienz, Tracht,
and Kieriholz, 1^/4 M. in length, pleasantly situated on the Lake of
JBrienz at the foot of the Bnenzer Otat, It is noted for its wood-
carving, which employs abont 600 persons. (Fliick's depot, etc.).
The Kdnzliy V* hr. above the Kreuz, and the Churchyard afford a fine
view of the lake , the Faulhorn ^ the fall of the Oltschibach, the Bnsten-
horuer, etc., and to the N. the falls of the Miihlbaeh (often dry in summer).
The ^Brlenxer Eothhom (7713'; 5 hrs \ bridle-path for the first 4 hrs.}
gnlde, 5 fr., unnecessary; horse 15-20 fr.), the highest peak of the Brienzer
Grat, is a famous point of view. Inn, 1/4 hr. from the top , closed. The
path ascends rapidly on the bank of the Treuhtbtich to the (2 lurs.) chalets
of the Hausstadt (5383'; Restaur. Fluck, with a few beds); then for 1 hr.
on the gentle slope of the Planalp^ watered by the Miihlbaeh, and lastly in
K^t^ags to the (2 hrs.) top, on which stands the boundary-stone of the
cantons of Bern, Lucerne, and Unterwalden. The view embraces the chain
of the Bernese Oberland , with the Lake of Brienz in the foreground ; a
glimpse of the Lake of Thun beyond Interlaken ; the Haslithal from Mei-
ringen nearly to the Grimsel; on the other side the small Ey-8ee, the
Lake of Samen, a considerable part of the Lake of Lucerne with the Rigi,
part of the Lake of Zug, a long strip of the Lake of Neuch&tel, and even
the Lake of Constance. — Descent by the Ey-a«9 to 89renhwg in the Kleine
Emmenthal, and (6 hrs.) BchUpfli^im, see p. 124.
From Brienz over the Br&nig to Lucerne^ see R. 35; one-horse carr.
to Alpnach-Gestad 25, with two horses 40 fr. (retorn-canrfage less).
The Lak» of Briens (1857'), 83/4M. long, and 11/4-172^- ^i^^^i
600' deep near the Giessbach, and 859' near Oberried, lies 20'
higher than the Lake of Thun, with which it is supposed to have
been once united (p. 141). It is enclosed by lofty wooded rocks and
mountains. To the S.E. in the background are the snow-clad Sus-
tenhorner, to the right the Thierberge. The steamboat crosses the
lake to the Oiessbach and skirts the abrupt S. bank. The lowest
waterfall only (see below) is visible from the lake ] above it is the
hotel, and to the right of the landing-place is the tramway station.
Beyond the Giessbach is the small wooded Sehneeken^Inael, with its
little chapel, and near it, on the S. bank, lies the pretty village of
Isdltwald (i^fM. Seebucht^ with restaur, and garden). The steamer
then crosses to Oberried and Niederried^ charmingly situated among
fruit-trees at the foot of the Aug8tmatthom(^. 146). Farther on, to the
N., rise the ruined castle otBinggenberg on a height, with the church
of that name, surrounded by underwood and orchards, and the old
tower of the Church of Ooldswyl, very picturesq^uely placed on an
isolated hill. On the opposite bank is the influx of the Lutachinej
which descends from the valleys of Grindelwald andLauterbrunnen.
The lake gradually contracts to a river , which is named the Aare
and afterwards falls into the Lake of Thun. The steamer stops at
Bonigen (p. 141 ; Restaur. Muhlemann), the terminus of the Bodeli
Railway (p. 138), which conveys travellers in 12min. to Interlaken.
The station of (IS/4 M.) ZoUhaus is at the E. end of the Hoheweg.
3 M. Interlaken, see p. 140.
The Road fbom Bbiekz to Ikterlaken (12 H. ; one - horse carr.
^10 fr.), on the N. bank of the lake, passes through (IV2 H.) Bbligen^ (2 M.)
GIESSBACH. 57. Route, 165
OberHedy and (3 M.) Niederried; then, high above the lake, it traverses a
rocky tract to (2V2 M.) Ringgenberg, passes the small Faulensee (p. 144), at
the base of the hill with the old church - tower , and leads by Ooldswyl
(beautiful views) to the upper Aare bridge at (3 M.) Interlaken.
51. The Oiessbach.
Hotels. ^HoTEL- Pension Giessbagh, a large new building, with two
dependances (the old hotel and the Hot. Beau-Site), R., L., A A. from 4-5
B. Ii/s, D. 4V2^, pens. 71/2-IO fr.; also whey and water-cure. Post and
Ttlegr<xph Office at the hotel. — Carved wood sold by C. Jfichel (formerly
KehrU).
'^Ulnmuiatioa of tte Falla , with Bengal lights , every evening from
Ist June till 30th September (inmates of the hotel 1 fr. each, for the first
evening only^ other persons IVa fr.).
Steanboat to Sdnlgen in 50, to Brienz in 10 min., see p. 163. On
Saturdays at 8 p.m. a train leaves Interlaken for Bonigen, in connection
with a steamer to the Giessbach, returning after the illumination.
Tramway (300' above the lake) from the landing-place to the
hotel (380' long^ gradient 2872 : ICO) in 6 min. (there and back
1 fr. ^ luggage under 50 lbs. 50 c. , over 50 lbs. 1 fr. j articles in the
hand freej. The two cars, holding 46 passengers each, and provided with
powerful brakes, are connected by a wire cable, running round a wheel at
the top of the hill. The one car ascends, while the other descends, the
gravitation of the latter, weighted with water, forming the motive power.
The rails are 1 metre (39 in.) apart, and have a toothed rail between them
as on the Blgi line (rack-and- pinion system).
The *GiMsbach, one of the prettiest and most popular spots in
the Bernese OberUnd, was first rendered accessible In 1818 by the
scbool^master Kehtli (d. 1854). The stream, which is oopious at
all seasons, rises on the N. slope of the 8ehwar2horn (p. 160), and
on its way to the lake of Brienz forms a series of seven cascades
falling from rock to rock , the highest being 1148' above the lake,
and framed in dark green foliage. The terrace in front of the
new hotel affords a complete view. The falls are crossed by three
bridges. Paths ascend on both hanks to the (V4 hr.) second bridge,
from which to the third (^2 hr.) there is a path on the right bank
only. A wooden gallery enables visitors to pass behinjjl the second
fall. Those who have time should ascend to X\s.q Highest Fall ^ where
the Giessbach , issuing from a sombre ravine, is precipitated under
the bridge into an abyss , 190' in depth. (Best view from a pro-
jecting rock to the right of the bridge.) Above the highest bridge
there is no attraction. About noon rainbows are formed in the falls.
The *Ra.tjft (2460') , a group of wooded rocks on the N. side of
the valley, rising abruptly 600' above the lake, commands a view
of the Lake of Brienz, the mouth of the Aare , and the alluvial dis-
trict of Brienzwyler ; opposite are the Brienzer Grat and the Biienzer
Rothhorn (p. 164); then, beyond Interlaken, part of the Lake of
Thun, overshadowed by the pyramid of the Niesen. A good path
leads from the back of the new hotel to the pavilion on the top in
20 min. ; another from the old hotel in ^4 hr.
Pleasant walk to the Alpine hamlet of Enge, situated among beautiful
pastures. Fine view at the point (V2 hr.) where the path reaches the
lake. We then descend past the NUteli to the Aare Bridge and the Mei-
ringen and Brienz road (p. 163). — About 2 hrs. above the Giessbach lie'^
166 BouU51. m-HOF.
the Axalp^ a health resort with a rustic inn, whence the ScJnoarthorn
(9610') may be ascended by the Bkwe Gletscher in 4-5 hrs. (with guide ;
comp. p. 160). — From the Giessbach to the Binterburg-See (5000*), char-
mingly situated in wood at the base of the OlUchikopf^ 3 hrs.
Ascent OF the Faulhobk (p. 158)fbom the Giessbach. 6'hr8. (guide 6 fr.),
fatiguing at places, especially on the Bctittnaip^ which is exposed to the
morning sun. To the S. of the Schwabhom this path joins the bridle-path
from the Scheinige Platte to the Faulhom (p. 160).
Fbom the Giessbach to Intbblab^ek (SVsbrs.). A good path, crossing
the first bridge over the falls, and bearing to the right (see finger-posts),
leads to the (1/2 hr.) Hoch^uh^ a charming point of view. It then runs
high above the lake and descends to (1 hr.) IteltwcUd, from which a road
leads to (IV2 M.) Sengg, (3 M.) Bdnigen, and (IVz X.) InUrlaMen.
52. From Meiringen to the Bhone Olacier. Grimsel.
Comp. Mapy p. 104.
10 hrs. : Im-Hof 31/2 M., Im-Boden 472 M., Guttannen '/< hr., Handegg
2 hrs., Grimsel Hospice 2^2, summit of the Grimsel 1, Rhone Glacier 1 (in
the reverse direction about 8^/2 hrs. in all). Road to Guttannen (one-horse
carr. 12-15, two-horse 20 j to Im-Hof 6 or 10 fr. ; diligence to Im-Hof twice
daily, 1 fr.)^ then a good bridle-path, guide unnecessary. Horse from Mei-
ringen to the Handegg (and back in one day) 15, Grimsel 25, Rhone Glac-
ier 32 , Hospenthal or Andermatt 40 fr. ; from the Rhone Glacier to the
Grimsel 6, to the Hospice 10, Handegg 15, Meiringen 30 fr.
Meiringen, see p. 162. The road crosses the Aare by the Willi-
genhriieke (passing, on the right, the upper fall of the Beichenbach,
p. 162), and ascends the Kirchet (2313'), a wooded hill, sprinkled
with erratic blocks of granite , which divides the valley into the
Lower and Upper Haslithal. At the top (1^4 M.) is the auberge
^Zum Lamm\ where a finger-post indicates the path to the ^Fin-
stere AarsckktehV to the left.
Finstere Schlauohe. From the inn we ascend slightly to the left, and
descend by a good path through underwood into the gorge worn by the
Aare, which flows here between perpendicular rocks oOC high (40 min.,
there and back). A toll of Vs ^- for each person is levied at the inn. The
excursion is, however, scarcely worth the time and trouble.
The road descends the Kirchet in long windings (avoided by
short-cuts), traverses the fertile basin of Hasli im Orundy and cross-
es the Aare near (21/4 M.) Im-Hof (2054'; *H6L Hof, R. & L. 2-21/2,
pens. 5-6 fr., carr. and horses ; Alperihof, R. 2, D. 2-3 fr. ; Restaur,
Alpenroae"), the principal village in theparish of /nnertftircAen, where
the Susten (p. 122 and Jochpass (p. 121) routes diverge.
Travellers from the Grimsel on their way to Rosenlaui and Grindel-
wald may go from Im-Hof direct, by GeUshotz, to the Upper Reichenbach
Fall (comp. p. 162: enquire for the beginning of the path).
The urbachthal (comp. Map, p. 104), opening here towards the S.W.,
deserves a visit. The path ascends to the (V2 nr.) narrow mouth of the
valley, is then nearly level for 1 hr., and afterwards mounts steeply to the
(2 hrs.) Alp Sehr&tum (4940'; beds), where the path to the Dosaenhiitte
diverges to the right (see below), and to the (1 hr.) MattencUp (6102*), at
the foot of the huge Oauli Olacier. In 1 hr. more we reach the Urnenalp
(7213'; rustic quarters). Thence over the Oauli Pan (10,260*) to the Grim-
sel , combined with the ascent of the Etngtehneehom^ 8-9 hrs., fatiguing,
ut verv grand (see p. 169). — Over the Bergli-Joeh (11,290*) to Grindel-
•Id, 16-17 hrs. from Im-Hof, very toilsome and hardlyrepaying. From
Urnenalp (where we pass the night) we ascend the Oauli Oleuier to
pass, lying between the Berglistock (p. 160) and the Roienhom^ and
HANDEGG FALL.
52. BouU. 167
descend the Qrindtlwaldfim to the WetUrhorn Hut (comp. p. 161). — The
Dossen Hut (p. 162) is reached in 4V8-5 hrs. from the Alp Sehrdttem (see
above), by the Alps Hlmenstein, Enzen^ and Fldschen, Thence to Rosenlaui,
ascent of the Wetlerhorn, and to Grindelwald, see p. 162. All these expe-
ditions are for adepts only, with good guides. (At Innertkirchen, Jvh. Tdnn*
leVf Joh. Moor^ Joh. A Melch, Thoni^ etc.)
Beyond Im-Hof the new road is at first level, and then gradually
ascends, on the right side of the picturesque valley, being hewn in
the rock at places and passing through two short tunnels. Running
high above the rapid Aare, it leads to (81/4 M.) Innere Vrweid (2464'),
and then under overhanging rocks and through another tunnel to
(IY4M.) /m-Bodcn (2933'), opposite the hamlet of that name on
the left bank. The road then crosses the Aare by a new bridge and
continues on the left bank to (^/^ hr.) Onttannen (3480^; Bar^
plain, R., L., & A. 272, B. U/2 fr.), the largest village in the Ober-
haslithal, lying in a broad basin. The pastures are covered in every
direction with heaps of stones, brought down by torrents. (Over
the Furtwang Sattel to the Triftgletscher, see p. 122.)
Beyond Guttannen (1/2 lir-) we cross the wild and foaming Aare
by the Tschingelbriicke (o733'). The valley contracts, and barren
black rocks rise on the right. Huge masses of d^ris deposited on
the less precipitous slopes testify to the power of avalanche and
torrent. On the right the Wisshach Glacier discharges its waters
into the valley. Crossing the Aare by the (20 min.) Schwarzbrun-
nenbrucke (3976'), and ascending a little, we reach (10 min.) a
spring of good water on the right. The Aare becomes more rapid,
and here forms a small waterfall. A pine-clad ridge of rock now
closes the valley. The paved path ascends over granite rocks, round-
ed and polished by glacier-friction (see below).
From a bend in the path (35 min. from the last bridge, and 8 min.
from the Handegg Inn) a short side-path leads to the left through a
chalet to a platform (1/2 fr.) immediately opposite the *Handegg
Pall, a cascade of the Aare, which descends amidst a cloud of spray
into an abyss, 250' in depth. Grand as this spectacle is, it Is still
finer when viewed from a point above the fall, which is reached by
descending for 5 min. to the E. of the Handeck Inn. The approach
Is easy and safe. The best point is a projecting rock beyond the bridge
(adm. 1/2 ^'» 1 restaur.). Next to the falls of the Tosa (p. 296) and the
Rhine (p. 24), this is the grandest waterfall among the Alps, owing
to its height. Its great volume of water, and the wild surroundings.
The stream is so rapid that it falls unbroken halfway to the bottom,
and In its rebound it forms a dense cloud of spray, in which rain-
bows are formed by the sunshine between 10 and 1 o'clock. The
silvery water of the Aerlenhach falls from a height to the left into the
same gulf, mingling halfway down with the grey glacier-water of
the Aare. The Handegg Jnn (4649'; wood-carving by Jaun) is on
the left bank, a few hundred paces above the fall.
The sombre pine-forest becomes thinner, and even the dwarf-
pines disappear a little above the Handeck. The stony soil is clothed
168 RouU52. GRIMSEL HOSPICE. From Meiringen
with stanted giass , moss , and rhododendrons. Abont Y2 ^^' ^^om
the Handegg the path leads over ronnded slabs of rock , called the
Bose Seite and the Helle or HeUe ('slippery') Platte, both worn by
glacier-friction. Opposite them the Oelmerbaeh forms a picturesque
fall. It descends from the Oelmeraee (SOBS') , a lake on the moun-
tain to the left, between the Oelmerhorn and Schauhhorrij and may
be visited from the Handegg (I74 hr. ; steep path).
The valley becomes narrower and bleaker. The path frequently
crosses the Aare, now a mere brook, and vegetation almost disappears.
Between the Handeck and Grimsel the only human habitations are
the (1 hr.) two chalets in the Raterichsboden (5594'; milk), the
last basin below the Grimsel, and perhaps once the bed of a lake.
The rocky, but well-trodden path ascends for a short distance
through a wild defile, and then becomes comparatively level. It
again crosses the Aare, turns to the left (where persons descending
the valley must avoid the turning to the left), and reaches (1 hr.)
the Grimsel Hospice (6148'; *Inn, R. & L. 3-4, B. IV2, D.
41/2 fr.)) originally a refuge for poor travellers crossing the Grimsel,
and now often crowded with tourists. The small rooms are separated
by very thin wooden partitions. Carved wood by Hans Abplanalp.
This desolate basin, the Grimselgrundj enclosed by bare rocks
with occasional patches of scanty herbage or moss, lies 955' below
the pass (p. 169). Beyond the gloomy little lake, which is destitute
of fish , lies the Seemdttli, a meagre pasturage, where the cows of
the Hospice graze for one or two months only. The jagged mountain
to the W., above the ravine of the Aare, is the Agassizhorn (13,120'),
the N. pedestal of the Finateraarhom (p. 108). The latter is visible
from a rocky hill 150 paces to the N.
Excursions from the Grimsel Hospice (comp. Maps, pp. 104, 154).
The *Xleine SiedftUum (9Q75'; 3 hrs.; guide 4 fr.), is an easy and
attractive ascent. [The Qrosse Siedelhom (9449'), an inferior point of
view, lies farther S.W.] The path diverges to the right at the bifur-
cation of the Rhone Glacier and Obergestelen routes. The last V^ hr.
is fatiguing, as the top of the mountain is covered with fragments
of granite. The view is imposing. Gigantic peaks surround us on every
side : to the W. the Schreckhom, the Finsteraarhom, and the Fiescher-
horner; to the N.E. the Galenstock, from which the Bhone Glacier des-
cends; to the S. the Upper Valais chain with its numerous ice-streams,
particularly the Gries Glacier; to the S.W., in the distance, the Alphubel,
Mischabel, Matterhorn, Weisshorn, etc. (comp. Dili's Panorama). — Tra-
vellers bound for Ohergettelen (p. 292) need not return from the Siedelhom
to the Grimsel Pass, but may descend on the S.E. side of the mountain
and there regain the bridle-path (guide advisable; comp. p. 170).
To the Pavillon Dollfuss 3hrs. (there and back 6hrs. ; guide 10 fr.). The
Aare is formed, to the W. of the hospice, by the discharge of two vast gla-
ciers, the Unter-Aar and the Ober-Aar 01ad«r, which are separated by the
ZinkentWcke. The Unter-Aar Glacier is formed by the confluence of the
Finsteraar and Lauteraar Glaciers ^ which unite at the foot (8286') of the
rock-arSte named */w» AbschtDung\ though for a long way below that point
they are separated by a huge moraine, 100' high at places. At the foot of
this argte the Swiss naturalist Bugi erected a hut in 1827, which in 1840
'4 descended with the glacier to a distance of 1900 yds. from its original
In 1641 and several following years the eminent Agassiz of Neu-
1, with Besor, Vogt, Wild, and other savants , spent a considerable
to the Rhone Glacier. FINSTERAHORN. 52. SouU, 169
time here, dating their interesting obaervAtiona from the ^Hotel des Neu-
chatelois\ a stone hut erected under a huge block of mica-slate projecting
from the medial moraine. These huts have long since disappeared. M.
Dnilfus-Ausset of Miilhausen in Alsace next erected the PaviUon Dollfna
(7676') lower down, on the N. side of the Lauteraar Olacier, now used as
a club-hut (comp. p. 157, and Maps, pp. 104, 154 and 292). A Tisit to this hut
is interesting and free from hazard. A bridle-xMith leads from the hospice
across the stony Aareboden to (1V4 hr.) the foot of the Unteraar Gbbcier
(6160' J. Here we ascend the rock to the right by a narrow path and then
traverse the rocks and debris of the terminal moraine. After about 40 min.
we take to the glacier, which affords good walking, pass several fine
^glacier-tables^, and cross the medial moraine and the Lauteraar Glacier,
which is here often considerably erevassed. Lastly we ascend a steep
slope to the (1 hr.) Club Hut, admirably situated on a rocky height over*
looking the Unteraar Glaoier. Opposite rise the Zinkenstocke, TMerberg,
ScheuchBerhorn , and Escherhom; in the background, above the Finster*
aar Glacier, the Finsteraarhom \ and to the right of the Abschwung the
huge Lauteraarhomer and Schreekhomer. — We may continue our walk
on the glacier as far as C/4 hr.) the foot of the Abschwung (p. 168),
where we enjoy a full view of the majestic Finsteraarhom. In the med-
ial moraine adjoining the Lauteraar Glacier, nearly opposite the Pav.
Dollfus, is a fragment of rock bearing the names of 'Stengel 1844; Otz,
Ch. Martins 1845", inscribed there during the scientific observations above
referred to. The rock, re-discovered in 1884, was then about 2660 yds. from
its original site.
The ascent of the ^Ewiffachneehom (lOjSSC; 41/4 hrs.) presents little
difficulty to adepts. From the Pav. Dollfus across the Lauteraar Glacier
to the foot of the mountain (8390*) IV2 hr., to the Oauligrat (10,260^ 2 hrs.,
to the top V* !»'• (comp. p. 166).
The jnuter«arhom (14,026'), the highest of the Bernese Alps, was
scaled for the first time in 1812 , then in 1829 and twice in 1842, and has
pretty often been ascended since. Travellers from the Grimsel spend the
night in the ObercKir Hut (see below). The route then ascends difficult
rocks and ice-slopes on the E. side of the mountain (6 hrs. to the top).
On the ascent from Grindelwald, Uhe Sehtearsegg Hut (p. 167) affords nif^t
quarters ; thence to the top in 9-10 hrs., over the Fintteraarjoeh^ the Ago*-
sizjoeh (12,6600, and the HugiscUtel (13,206'). If the Eggishom be the start-
ing-point, the night is spent in the (5 hrs.) Concordia But Cp. 154), from
which we ascend to the summit in 8 hrs. over the GrUnhomliiekt (1(),843'),
the Walliser Fieseherfim, and the ffugitattel. The expedition is fit for
thorough experts only, with first-rate guides. Even when the ice is in a
favourable condition tne ascent is difficult and very trying.
Fbom the Grimsel to Fiesch, or to the Eqgishorn (p. 298), over the
Oberaarjoeh, 13 hrs. fatiguing, but interesting (two guides, 35 fr. each).
We ascend the Oberaar Olaeier in about 6 hrs. to the finely situated and
well-appointed Club Hut on the Oberaarjoch (10,624'), lying to the S. of
the Oberaarhorn (11,953'; which experts mav scale from the hut in IV2 hr.).
We then descend the Stttder,fim^ passing the Rothhom (11,345'; at its 8.
base, to the right, is the Rothloch^ a cave in which travellers ascending
the Finsteraarhom used to spend the night) ; we then toil down the right
side of the erevassed Fiescher OUiicher to the Stoctalp (p. 293), and to the
H6t€l Jungfrau-Eggishom (p. 293; 7 hrs. from the dub-hut). — Over the
Oberaar- RoTHJocH (10,906'), to the S. of the Oberaarjoch, no^ difficult.
— Over the Stdderjoch to Fiesch, 14-15 hrs., difficult. The route ascends
the Unteraar and timtera^r Olaeierg to the Btnderjoch (11,6500, between
the Oberaarhorn (see above) and the Studtrhorn (11,935'; a splendid point
of view, easily at tained from the pass in */4 hr.). Descent over the Studer^
flm and the Fiescher Olet^cher^ as above.
From the Grimsel over the StrahUgg and the Finsteraarjoch or Lauter-
aarjoeh to Orindelwald, p. 167 — From the Grimsel to the Furka direct, over
the N&geliigrmii^ p. 112 ; over the Trifllimmi to the Trifthiltte^ p. 122.
From the Hospice the biidle-path, partly paved, and indicated
170 Route 53. HEUSTRICH-BAD.
by stakes, winds up the Orimsel Pass (TIGS'), connecting the Has-
lithal with the Upper Valais. Beyond the (1 hr.) summit (Hauseck),
the boundary between Bern and Valais, lies the small Todtensee,
In 1799 this 4ake of the dead* was used as a burial-place by the Aos-
trians and French. The former, with the Valaisians, had intrenched them-
selves on the Orimsel, but were surprised by the French, whom Fahner,
a peasant of Outtannen, had guided over the JfagelUffrdtli (p. 112), and
were driven back into the Valais. The French presented their guide, at his
request, with the Raterichsboden (p. 168), as a reward for his services, but
the government of Bern cancelled the gift a few months later.
Those who have seen the Rkotu Olaeier (p. 291) may descend direct
from the Orimsel to (2>/4 hrs.) Obtrgettelen (p. 292) by the path diverging to
the right before the top of the pass is reached (leaving the Todtensee to
the left). Splendid views of the Valaisian Alps and the 8t. Gotthard group,
and also, at the beginning of the descent, of the fall of the Rhone Glacier.
(In the reverse direction 2>/2-3 hrs.; guide desirable in foggy weather,
A fr.). The ascent of the Kleine Siedelhwm (p. 168) may easily be com-
bined with this route.
From the pass our path leads to the left, on the N. side of the
Todtensee, and descends the Xaienwand, a steep grassy slope 1300'
in height, carpeted with rhododendrons and other Alpine plants, in
-view of the imposing Rhone Glacier and the Galenstock. The (1 hr .)
Rhone Olacier Hold, see p. 291. Thence to BrUg^ see R. 80; over
the Furka to Andermattj R. 33.
53. From (Thun) Spiez to Leak orer the Gemmi.
Comp. Maps, pp. 240 , 172.
DiLiOEHCK twice daily from Spiez to (9>/8 H.) Frutigen in 2 hrs. 20 min. ;
(2fr. 65, coup^ 3fr. 46c.); one-horse carr. 10, two-horse 18 fr.; to (19 M.)
Kandersteg lo or 35 fr. — Fbom Thuk to the Heustrieh-Bad omnibus daily
at 4 p.m. (21/2 fr.); carr. to Kandersteg 20 or 38 fr.
The 0«maii is one of the grandest and most frequented of the Alpine
passes. Road to Kandersteg (19 M. from Spiez, 23 M. from Thun) ; thence
over the Gemmi to the Baths of Leuk (fis/^ hrs.) a good bridle>path (guide
unnecessary); from the baths a road to the (9 M.) Leuk station.
Thurhj see p. 135. Steamboat to Spies (*8pieter Hof)^ see
p. 139 ; post-office near the landing-place, where carriages also are
in waiting. The road, bordered with houses and fruit-trees, ascends
the hills on the S. bank of the lake to Moos, where it joins the
road from Thun, and (IV2M.) SpiezwyUr; to the S.W. rises the
Ki€B€n (p. 133), with WimmU (p. 137) at its base, at the entrance
to the Simmenihal (p. 181).
The road skirts the lofty right bank of the Kander. To the left
diverges the road to Aesehi (see below). The diligence halts at (3 M.)
Emdthal (Inn), the station for the *Heuitrieh-Bad (2303'), on the
opposite bank of the Kander, with saline and sulphur-baths, much
frequented (board 372-6 f r. ; ascent of the Niesm, see p. 138). To the
left a footpath ascends to (20 min.) Aescki (see below). The road
crosses the Suldbach ot (V2 M.) XfLlinen (2264'; *Bar, moderate.
From Spiez bt Aeschi to Mulinen (d'/z M. ; one-horse carr. 6, two-
horse 10 fr.), a much more attractive route than the above. Walkers ascend
^y a somewhat steep path in 1 hr. (or by the road 4 M.) to Aetchi (2818'^
fT^. ' Pens. BlUmliMlp J -penaionb-l tr.\ "Jffdf.-Pem. Niefen)^ a village on the
FBUXIGEN. 53, Route. 171
)ieight between the Lake of Thun and the Eanderthal, with a charming
view of the lake, and visited as a health-resort. (The Faulenteebaoi, p. 139,
is 1 H. to the S.E.) Descent to Emdthal or Miilinen, IVs M. — From
Aksghi to the Sax£T£NThal , a pleasant route (TVshrs.; guide unnecess-
ary). Road by Aerchi-Ried in the Suldtbal to the (6 M.) llntere Suldalp
(3418'); then a bridle-path, past a fine waterfall of the Suldbach, to the
(lV«hr.) J3chlieren-Alp (4675'); ascent to the left to the (IVa hr.) BenmgU-
Paa» or Tamhddeli Poms (6168'), between the MorgeHberghoru and the Sehwal-
mem; then descend by the Hinter-Bergli-Alp to (iVzhr.) Saxeten (p. 146).
The Morgenberghorn (7383') may be ascended from the pass in IVs hr.
(easy and attractive), or direct from Aschi via AescM'Allmendf the 8onnen~
lerg^ and the Sutmad-Alp in 5 hrs.. — Fsou Asschi to Inteslakbn by
Krattige», Leisngen (Steinbock) and D&rligen (p. 140), a beautiful walk or
drive of 8 M.
We pass (3/4M.) Seichenbftoli (2336' 5 ^Linde), lying to the left,
at the mouth of the Kienthal (superb view of the Bliimlisalp).
A narrow road ascends the attractive Kienthal, affording fine views
uf the Biittlassen, Gspaltenhorn, and Bliimlisalp, to the (4 M.) village of
Kienthal (rustic inn) and (3V2 M.) the extensive Tsehingel Alp (3783'),
10 min. from which is the Pochtenbach/all with the interesting ^'Hexen-
ketsely a kind of 'glacier miir. Thence over the Sefinen-Furgge to Miir-
ren (8-9 hrs.), and over the Hohthurli to Kandenteg ^ see p. 161. To the
E. the valley is closed by the crevassed Gamchigletscher^ the source of the
Pochtenhaeh. Experts with able guides will find it interesting to cross the
Oamchilttcke (9295'), between the Bliimlisalp and the Gspaltenhorn, to
the Tsehingelfim (p. 151). We may then either cross the Petersgrat to
Ried in the Lotschenthal (p. 152), or the Tsehingelpass to Kandersteg
(p. 161), or the Tsehingeltritt to Lauterbrunnen (p. 151). Distances: from
the TschingelaJp to Steinenberg 1 hr., end of the Gamchigletscher 1^2 hr.,
Gamchiliicke 2V2) Ried 6-7, Kandersteg 6, Lauterbrunnen 4 hrs. — As-
cents from the Kienthal: Buttlasaen (10,490'), from the Dilrrenberghtitfe
(2V« hrs. above the Tschingelalp, see p. 151), 3V2-4 hrs., toilsome, but re-
paying. — Chipaltenhom (11,276'), reached by the Leitergrat between the
Biittlassen and the Gspaltenhorn, very difficult (first scaled bv Mr. Foster
in 1869). — Wilde Fran (10,693'), from the Frauenbalm Hut (p. 173) and
up the Bliimlisalp Olacie)\ 3 hrs. laborious.
The road crosses the Kander, and next reaches (3^/4 M.) —
91/2 M. Frutigen (2717'; AdUri *BeUevue , with pretty view ;
^Helvetia) , a village situated in a fertile valley on the Engstligen-
haehj which falls into the Kander lower down. Matches are largely
manufactured here. From the church we obtain a beautiful view
of the Kanderthal and the Altels, and of the Ralligstocke (p. 140}
6and St. Beatenherg. — Ascent of the Nieen, see p. 136.
The valley divides here; the S. arm, watered by the Kander, leads to
the Gemmi. To the S.W. diverges the pretty Engstligen or Adelboden
Valley. A new road (to Adelboden 10 H.) ascends on the left side of the
valley to Aehseten and the Steg (auberge), crosses the Engstligen . and
follows the right bank to Hirtbodtn, recrosses the stream and ascends to
the village of Adelboden (4447'; '^Adler ; ^'Pens. HaH^ 5 fr. \ guides , Ohr.
£gger and Chr. Schmid), situated on a hill , and a good centre for excur-
sions. To the Engstligen-Alp (p. 172) , 2 hrs. , guide advisable (abundant
Edelweiss near the waterfall); to the Wettertanne in the Allenbaehthal^
with fine view of the Wildstrubel and Lohner, 1 hr.; to the '^'Pochten-
kessel (see above), 1 hr. down the valley, near the road, then to the left
to the little Eindualdbad and through the wild Tschentenbach Gorge
back to Adelboden. To the Bonder Waterfall in the Bondertfial, there and
back 3 hrs. , etc.
Pastes. To Lenk a path, marshy at places, leads hence over the
Eahnenmoos (d^lCV), passing a large dairy establishment near the top, in
SVa hrs. (guide 6, horse 15 fr.). Beautiful view, during the descent, of the
1 72 Route 63, KANDERSTEG. From Thun
upper Simmenthal, the Wildstrubel, the Weisshom, and the Basli Glacier.
In the reverse direction 1 to IV2 hr. longer.
Fboh Adblbodbk to Kanderstbg, an interesting ronte over the Bonder-
krinden (7831'; 6-7 hrs.; guide 10 fr.). a pass between the Klein-Lohner
and the IfUnihom. Descent through the wild Oesehmenfhal (p. 173). — A
shorter route, but steep and trying, crosses the Bondergrat, fitrther N.,
between the Klein-Lohner and the Bondenpitz^ and descends by the AUmen-
Alp (p. 17B) to Kandersteg. The Sonder»pitt (836O0) an admirable point of
view, is ascended from Adelboden in 4, or from Kandersteg in iVzhrs. — To
ScHWAREMBACH (ou the Oemmi route) over the Enqbtliobnorat, 9-10 hrs.,
with guide (12 fr.), a fine route. From Adelboden we ascend the valley to the
S., passing the fine Staub/alL to the (3 hrs.) BngMtUffmalp (63810. a grand
Alpine basin at the base of the broad Wildtfrttbel (p. 179). We then
cross the Engatligengrat, passing the curious TMehinf^eloehtiffhom (899(y),
and descend into the Uesehinenthali , witk ita little lake (far below to the
left lies the Ueichinenthal^ p. 173). Then to the left, over the JSchwarz-
grdtU^ to Tschalmeien. and Schwarenbaeh (p. 174); or we mav traverse the
UeschinentMU- Glacier^ on the W. side of the Feltenhorn (9157'), and de-
scend through the Rothe Kumm to the Daubtnzee and Gemmi Peus, — To
Sierbe ovkr the Steubelego AMD Lammernjoch, 12-13 hrs. , for the pro-
ficient only, with able guides. From the Engstligenalp a diJFficult ascent
ascends over loose stones and across the steep Stn^el - Olaeier to the
Struhelegg (9613'), between the Steghom and Wildstrubel (the £. peak, or
Grosi'StruheU 10,676') \ then over the Ldmmernffletteher to the Ldmmemjoeh
(p. 179); lastly down the Wildstruhel Olarier and the Plaint Morte^ and past
the Uon*. Bonvin (p. 284), into the Raspillp Valley and to Sitrre (p. 284).
Our road crosses the EngstUgenbach and the Kander (on the
right the ruins of the TeUenburg'), and traverses the pleasant Kan^
dergrund. The church and parsonage of the valley are at (3 M.)
Bunderhach (2880'; H6t. Altels).
By a rustic cabaret, V< ^- beyond the Hotel Altels, a road diverges
to the right in 8 min. (and another, 1/4 M. farther, by a chalet, in 4 min.)
to the ^Blaue Bee, picturesquely embosomed in wood, and remarkable
for its brilliant coloxir (morning light most favourable). "Ptntion on the
bank of the lake, a pleasant, quiet spot. (Charge for maintenance of the
roads and use of the boat 80 c. ; a ticket at I'/z fr. entitles the visitor to
1/2 bottle of wine, for 4 fr. he may dine at the table d'hdte (at 12.30) and
for 7 fr. he may sup, sleep, and breakfast at the pension; in each case
the nae of boat being included ; otherwise refreshments are only procurable
at a hut on the road-side.) Travellers to Kandersteg rejoin the road by
a path in 2 min.
Near Mitthols (3154') we pass the square tower of the ruined
FeUenburg ; we then ascend the Buhlstviz in windings (short-cut
for walkers, following the telegraph-wires), passing the Buhlhad
and reach (6Y2 M.) —
19 M. Xandenteg (3840'). — Bar, b., l., & A. d4V3, D. 4 fr.;
Hot. Obxmi, rebuilt since a fire in 1886; both in Bggtntchwand ^ at the
end of the village, near the foot of the Oemmi ; Hot. Victoria, IVsM. lower
down. R., L., A A. 2*/4 , B. IV2, D. SVa fr. — Guides (Jchann^ FHiz^ and
Qilg. Ogi; Chriztian^ Oilg..Joh.,KiiA8amtt€lHari; Joh.Kilnzi): toSchwabach
(unnecessary ; 3, descent 2 hrs.) 5 fr. ; to the Gemmi (summit of the pass, 4,
descent 2>/4 hrs.) 7 fr. ; to the Baths of Leuk (5^/4 hrs.) 10 fr. — Horsb to
Schwarenbach 10, to the G^emmi 15 fr. (the descent on horseback to the
Baths of Leuk Is prohibited). Carriaobs (return-vehicles cheaper): one-
horse to Frutigen 10, two-horse 18 fr. ; Spiez, 18 or 36; Thun, 20 or 40; In-
terlaken, 26 or 45 fr.
A grand panorama is disclosed here : to the N.E. is the jagged
Irrenhorn; to the £. the glistening snow-mantle of the Blumlisalp
Frau, the beautiful Doldenhorn , and the barren Fisistocke; to
174 Route 53. GEMMI. From Thun
Doidenhorn, etc. On the right, 2^2 ^'^- ^rom Kandersteg, we ob-
serve the chalets of the Spitalmatte (6250'). To the E., between the
snowy AlteU (1 1 , 9309 and the black rocky peak of the Klevne Rinder-
horn (9865'; adjoining which is the snow-clad Orosse Rinderhom,
1 1 ,372'), lies imbedded the Schwarzgletseher, drained by the Schvoarz"
hack. We next traverse a stony wilderness, the scene of a landslip,
to the (V2 hi.) I^n of Sohwarenbacli (6775'), with its little lake.
The ^Balmhom (12,180'), ascended in 5-o hrs., over the SchtcarxgUUcher
and the Zagengrat (toilsome, but free from danger -, guide 30 fr.), affords a
magnificent panorama of the Alps of Bern and the Valais, and extends
to N. Switzerland. A shorter route starts from the Hotel Wildstrubel-
Gemmi (see below; 4 hrs. with guide), leading through the FurkentMli^
behind the Binderhorn and crossing the Zagengrat. — The Altels (11,930')
is less interesting (5-6 hrs. ; guide 25 fr. ; much step-cutting necessary
when there is little snow). — The Wildstrubel (lOfStO*), ascended from
the Gremmi over the Lammernglettcher in 4-4Vs hrs., is fatiguing, but re-
paying (comp. p. 179).
We next reach the (}/2 hr.) shallow Daubexuiee (7264'), a lake
1 M. long, fed by the Lammem Glacier (see below), with no
visible outlet , and generally frozen over for seven months in the
year. The path skirts the E. bank of the lake, and, lOmin. beyond
it, reaches the summit of the pass, the Daube, or€femmi(7553'), at
the base of the Daubenhom (9685'), the bare limestone-rocks of which
rise abruptly to the right. Adjacent is the Lammem Olaeier with its
huge moraines (over the Ldmmernjoch to Lenk see p. 179).
On the route to the left is the small JSdtel Wildstrubel (R. 3 fr.J,
affording a magnificent ^Yiew of the Rhone Valley and the Alps of
the Yalais (panorama at the inn). The mountains to the extreme
left are the Mischabelhomer ; more to the right rise the Brunegg-
horn, the huge Weisshorn, the pyramid of the Matterhorn, and still
more to the right the Dent Blanche. At a giddy depth below lie the
Baths of Leuk, and beyond them Inden (p. 176). Abundant flora.
About 5 min. below the pass is a stone hut for sheep, on the
brink of an almost perpendicular rock, 1660' high, down which, in
1736-41, the Cantons of Bern and Valais constructed one of the
most curious of Alpine routes. From this point to Leuk it is up*
wards of 2 M. in length, and nowhere less than 5' in width. The
windings are skilfully hewn in the rock, often resembling a spiral
staircase, the upper parts actually projecting at places beyond the
lower. The steepest parts and most sudden corners are protected
by parapets. Distant voices reverberating in this gorge some-
times sound as if they issued from its own recesses. Unprotect*
ed as the path appears when seen from below, there is no danger,
even to persons inclined to giddiness, if attended by a guide.
(Descent to the Baths IV2) ascent 2V2 hrs.; the descent on horse-
back is now prohibited.) In 1861 a Comtesse d'Herlincourt fell from
her saddle over the precipice and was killed ; a small monument,
1/4 hr. from the top, marks the spot. From the ^Blaue Fluh' we see
on the opposite cliff a ladder (now inaccessible) and other relics of
n old guard house, up to the foot of which the gorge was once fill-
to Leak, BATHS OF LEUK. 53. Route. 175
ed witli debris. The openings in the walls of the meadows at the
foot of the Gemmi are used for the counting of sheep.
Baths of Leuk. — *H6tsl deb Alpes, B. & A. 3, B. V2« !>• 4-5, pens.
9-11 fr. ; *Maisov Blanohb, with its d^pendanee Grakd Bain; ^Hotxl dk
Fkance; "^Union, B. 2Vs) !>• 3V24, pexu. 6 fr. ; ^fsiksKS Bbukneb, D.
3 fr. \ ^Qdill. Tell, moderate. — Horse to Kandersteg 30, Schwarenbacli 12,
Daube 8 fr. ; Porter to Kandersteg 10, Schwarenbach. 6, top of the Gemmi
4 fr. — Diligenee to the Leak station every forenoon in summer in 2 hrs.
(5 fr.) ; one-horse carr. 12-15, two-horse 26 fr.
Bad Ltuk (4630'), Fr. Loeche-les-BavM^ loeally known as Baden
or Oher'Baden^ a village consisting chiefly of wooden houses, with
650 inhab., lies on green pastures in a valley opening to tiie S.,
and watered by the Data, 2920' below the Daube (Gemmi), and
2590' above the Rhone. In July and August the baths are much
frequented by French, Swiss, and Italian visitors. The massive
embankment on the E. side protects the village against avalanches.
In the height of summer the sun disappears about 5 p.m. The
huge, perpendicular waU of the Gemmi presents a weird appearance
by moonlight.
The Thermal Sprini^ (93-123'' Fahr.), impregnated with lime, about
23 in number, rise in and near the village, and are so abundant that nine-
tenths of the water flow unused into the Dala. They are chie£[y beneficial
in cases of cutaneous disease. They vary in strength and temperature, the
Laurenet Spring being the most powerful. Their sanatory properties appear
to depend more on the way in which they are used than on their mineral
ingredients. The 'cure^ takes 25-30 days. The patient begins with a bath
of half-an-hour, the time of immersion being gradually increased. From
the 6th to the 16th day the whole body is usually covered with an erup-
tion, which gradually disappears between the 18th and the 25th day. After
three weeks the daily immersion is prolonged to 4-5 hrs., 2-3 in the morn-
ing and 1-2 in the afternoon. After each bath the patient usually lies in
bed for an hour. In order to avoid the tedium of a long and solitary soak-
ing, most of the patients, clothed in long flannel dresses, sit in a common
bath for several hours together, during which the water is not changed.
Each bather has a small floating table before him, Irom which his book,
newspaper, or coffee is enjoyed. The utmost order and decorum are pre-
served. Private baths may also be obtained (2 fr.)-
Both the Old and the New Bath House now contain separate
basins for ladies and gentlemen, about 3 ft. deep. Spectators are no
longer admitted to the galleries, but may survey the scene through
windows on the ground-floor. The loud and animated conversation of
the patients , who appear to enjoy excellent spirits , is chiefly in
French. Both houses also contain shower-baths. All the baths are
open from 5 to 10 a.m. and from 2 to 5 p.m.
EzeuruoBS. A walk, partially shaded, and affording a fine view, leads
from the '• Kurpromenade' to the foot of a lofty precipice (»/« hr.) on the
left bank of the Dala. Here we ascend by eight rude Ladders (^helles),
attached to the face of the rock, to a good path at the top, which leads in
1 hr. to the village of Albinen^ or Arhignon (4252^). The fine view obtained
ft*om a projecting rock above the second ladder will alone repay the
climber; but persons liable to dizziness should not attempt the ascent.
The descent is more difficult.
Excursions may also be made to the Fall of the Dala, V^ hr. ; Feuil-
leretie Alp ^SSO"), V* hr. •, Fluh Alp (6710'), 2V2 hrs. ; Torrent Alp (6346'),
l>/2 hr. (For longer excursions guides should be brought from Kandersteg.)
The ^'Torrenthom (9852'; iVs hrs.) commands a magnificent view of the
bridge, and Main diverges from it to (he rlgfit, beyond the chipel of
SI. Barbara (3997*). IVi H. beyond the bridge. By tbla ronte lbs walk
from (he B>(hg to (be »ilw>y-sutlDn Of LeDk-Sn>ten Ukra 3-3i/i (th?
B>cen(!«Vi)hr». — A direct eBrriogeTO.d TiiSifKHR diverge lo the Hiiht
from the Leok ro»d, I's hr. below Inden in Ihe D»1» rsvine . pMiina
Uirongh teverel tunnels, «nd griduslly dficending tbe slope by Vortn and
SalglMth <to Slerre 2 hrs.).
The road quits the Da)a raviite at a point high abOTe the Rhone
Valley, o( nhich a beaatiful riew down to Maitigny is disclosed.
About 3 M. from the Dala bridge -ve reach {Vj^ M.) —
TVaM. lenk, oi Loccht-VUle [lilO' \ pop. 1411; Coumnni),
a small tovrn ou a height ^/^ M. from the Rhone, with a picturesque
old casUe, The caliure of the vine begins here. The road erosses
the railway snd the Rhone by an iron bridge, to the (IV^ M.) —
9 M. Ltuk Stalion (2044'; Hfltel de la Souste), see p. 284.
54. From Oampel to Eandersteg. LStschea Pass.
(0 K«iidw.t(ig Deceisarv (IS.orfw ...
good walker* only, tn fine «e«(her. The MUchisUiat itself is worthy of
From Oampel ('mul LStschenthal) , on the right bant of the
Rhone , 1 M. to the N. of the station of that nime (p. 285), the
road ascenda the LotichentKal , or gorge of the Lanta, which le
much exposed to avalanches. Mounting rapidly at Arst, it passes
the chapels of (1 hr.) Mitiltal and ('/a hr.) Goppmilcin (40360.
Beyond Goppenatein the bridle-path crosses the ('/4 he) Lan%a, where
the calley expands, and leads to (1 hr.) Ftrdtn (4657' ; poor inn) and
(Vl'iT.) Kipptl (4514'; bed at the cure''a]. It then asoends gradually
by WiUr to (40 min.) Sled (4950'; Hoi. Ntsthom, unpretending),
flnely eitaated at the .N.W. base of the BIttKhhom (12,9fi6'J.
LOTSCHEN-PASS. 54. BouU. 177
EzcuBSioKS. (Guides, Jo*. Rubi, Peter Sigeit, and others.) The
*Hohgleifen {Adlertpitze, 10,828'; 5-6 hrs., with guide) is not difficult.
Super!) view of the Yalaisian Alps from the Canton Ticino to Mont
Blanc, the W. B^nese Alps, the Lotschenthal and Rhone Valley, and to
the £. in the foreground the huge Bietachhorn.
The 'Bietachhom {Qrost-Nesthorn , 12,966'; 9 hrs. , guide 60 fr.), first
ascended by Mr. Leslie Stephen in 1859, is very fatiguing and difficult,
and fit for experts only. The previous night is sp^it in the Club-hut
on the Scha^erff (259om), 3 hrs. from Bied.
Passes. Over the Petertgrat (10,516') to Lauterhrunnen (11 hrs. ; 25 fr.),
fatiguing but highlv interesting, see p. 152. — Wetterliieke (10,365') and
ScAmadriJoeb (10,868'), diffieult, see p. 152. — Over the LdtsehenlilGke to
the £ggi*hom, p. 294; over the Beiehpats to the Beletlp^ p. 286.
Over the Baltschiederjoch (about 10,200*) to the Rhone Valley (from
Ried to Visp 9-10 hrs.) , interesting but fatiguing. — The Bietschjoch
(lOjBSd*), 8 hrs. from Ried to Baron, is a fine route, fr«e from difficulty.
Fboh Ried to Bad Leuk ovbb the Febdbnpa£S, 8-9 hrs., with guide,
a very fine route, and not difficult. At the Kummenalp (see below) the
path diverges to the left from the Lotschenpass route and ascends the
Ferdenthal to the Fer4enpas8 (8593'), between the Majingharu and the
Ferden-IMhhMTi^. Descent over long steny slopes te th« Fkikalp and through
the Dalaihal to Bad Leuk (p. 175). — Over the Gitzifurgge (9613'),
9-10 hrs. to Bad Leuk, an interesting but laborious route. The pass lies
to the S.W. of the Lotschenpass, between the Ferden-Rothhom and the
Balmhorn. Descent over the Bala Glacier to the Fluhalp (see above). — Ovbb
THE Restipabs, 7-8 hrs., also interesting (guide 12 fr.). From Ferden we
ascend over the Resti-Alp (6926'; two beds) in 4 hrs. to the Bestipass (8658'),
between the Resti-Rothhom and the Laucherspitze (see below), and descend
the Bcuhalp to tiie town of Leuk in 34 hrs. more. From the pass we may
easily ascend the i^U hr.) *Laucherspitze (9400'): admirable view of the
Alps of Bern and Valais, the Rhone Valley, and the Lotschenthal. —
To Leuk and Susten over the Faldum Pais (8675'), between the Lauebep-
spitse and the FcMum- Rothhovn (dSlO*), or over the Niveapaas (3563'),
between the Faldum-Rothhom and the Niven (9110'; a fine point of view,
1/2 hr. from the pass), both easy.
TheLotschen Pass is reached from Ried in 31/2 l^rs- ^7 Meissen'
ried, Lauchemalpf and Sattlegi, Another route ascends from Ferden
(see al)Ove) to the N."W., through beautiful larch-wood and over
pastures, to the (2 hrs.) Kummenalp (6808'); then over rock,
d^ris, and patches of snow to the (2 hrs.) Lotschen Pass (8842'),
commanded on theW. by the steep slopes of the Balmhorn (p. 1T4),
and on the E. by the Sehiltkom, or Hockenhom (10,817' ; ascended
from the pass in 2^/2 hrs. ; splendid view). We obtain the finest ♦View
on the route a little before reaching the pass itself: to the S.£.
rises the Bietschhorn, to the S. the magnificent group of the Mi-
schabel, Weisshorn, and Monte Rosa; to theN. are the rocky but-
treBses of the Doldenhom and Blumlisalp; to the N.E. the Kander-
firn, overshadowed by the Mutthorn (9978').
The path descends on the right side of fhe Lotschenberg Glacier ;
near the end of the glacier it crosses to the left side and leads over
the Schonbukl to the (IV4 lir.) OfaUalp (6036'; milk), overlooking
the upper Oastemthal. At the bottom of the valley we cross the
Kander to (1/2 ^ir.) Oastemdorf, or Selden (5315'), a group of
hovels (the first, a small cabaret). The Gastemthal was more thickly
peopled at the beginning of the century than now; but indiscri-
minate felling of timber has so exposed it to avalanches that the
Babdbkbb, Switzerland. 12th Edition. 12
178 aoutt56. LENK.
tnhabiUnts have to laiTe It from Febrauy to the h&y-harveat. ite-
yond K beiQtitui forest, which for oentorieB hag resisted the atalancbes
of the Doldtnhom, we next reach (1 hr.) Qattemlnh (4462'),
amidst & chaos of rocks. The valley bends here and soon expands,
being boanded on the S. by the snow-dad MteU (11,9300 >"d the
TMiAom (82209, ""1 °° '■'^^ ^' ^y '^^ Fiititoete (9300'). Of
the yarions witerfalls thai descend the abrupt clifTa to the S., the
finest is that of the QeiUnbaeh.
At the end of (he valley the load enters the [1 hr.) Ktai, a de-
flte ^|^ M. long, throogh which the Kandei fori:e9 Its waT In a series
of ciBWdas. In the centre of the gorge we ccosa to tlie left hank of
the rlTet, and beyond its outlet we reach the Gemini route, and ('^
hr.) Kandentcg (see p. 172).
65. From Than to Sioa over the Rawyl.
Cmtp. Marl. FP- t*", "t. »3t.
DlllOEscE from Than to Lenk (33i/, U.) dtil> Id E hrg. 19 fr. TI> c,
conp^ 13 fr.; one bone ait. Sb. two-hurae 60 ti.y From Lenk to SLod
(10i7ikra.) •BaU'LEPaTB, Eood on the Bern side, but rough ou the other.
Onld« dHlrable do 8ian SO fr.). The Oemml ti far preferabU to the Sa-
To (251/g M.) ZweUlmmtn, see pp. 180-82. The Lenk road
CTOsees the Simmt near Cuatl, and ascends the Vyptr Sbmntnlhal
by BttUWitd, passing Sehlou filonioibunr on Che light (p. 182),
to the piellily sitoated (3 M.) St. Stef\im (3297'; Falke)! then
Co Qrodei, Matten, at Che mouth of the Fermiilhai [p. 1$1~], and
(5M0 —
33VaM. Lank (3627'; *KTont, K. & A. 2'/,, B, 1 ft. 20 c.,
pens. 6 fr.; Sltrn}, a village rebuilt to a great extent since a Are
in 1878, situated in a flat and somewhat marshy part of the valley
of the Simme. About Vg M. to the S.W. (path in 7 min.), lies the
•iTuroiudrJI Lent (3621'; R. , L. , & A. 4I/4, board 6-7 fr.), with
sulphur baCha and grounds. The Wilditniiel (10,670^, with its
huge precipices and it» patches of snow , whence several streams
descend, forms a grand termination to the valley.
E.cuasiuse. (Quidoi. CTr. and Jeh. Jut. Ja7gi.) The SIiuu rises,
1 M. to the 8. or Lenk, in Ihe lO-called Slthtnlrsniien , to which an
IntereiUng walk loa; tx t^fn (\ hn. tbere and back). Road bv Ottrrltd
and view of the Wildhorn) to (I'/, hr!] Btaldta (453?), at the foot o\
the fall] of the Simme. A path now ascends In front of the gaw-mllL,
between alderi , descrlbLng a curve on the right bank of Ihe stream, uid
gkirtine a deep goi^e wilh fine waleifalls. It paiso two chaletg, travsraes
barg(i«89'; Fridig-j Inn. small). To llie's., hieh abcve the perpendicular
rocki, Is ike B&tli etacUf! below, not far from the bottom of the
valley, an Ihe (10 nla.) 'Seven Fawlaim- (ITU'), now united Into a.
aln«le stream. Farther on, to the left, Is the Upper Fall 0/ llii amnu,
which is eonipicuou. from a long distance. To the rfrhl of the glacier
Hue the aiilKhirliorn <9672') and lay/bedeiiiarii (GSTg'), lu Ibe left the
AmmerUB/i«fn (BTiCj.
WILDSTRUBEL. 55, Route. 179
The Oberlaabhorn (6670'), rising to the W. of the Bacliberg, is fre-
quently ascended from Lenk either by Trogegg in 3'/2hrs., or "by Poschen-
ried and ihe Ritzberg Alj> (6710') in 4 hrs., with guide*, back by the Bazli-
berg, Stalden, and Oberried. — The MiiUerblatt (6355') is well worth
ascending far the fine view of the Wildatrubel, etc. (2^/2 hrs.)- Beyond
the Eurhaus we ascend on the left bank of the Krummbachy (10 min.) cross
it, traverse pastures and wood, passing many chalets, and mount the
Beitelberg to the top.
The Iffigensee (6826'), SVzhrs., is also worth seeing. By the (2 hrs.)
Iffigen Inn (see below) we turn to the right to the (^/a hr.) Stieren-Iffigenalp
(^12^; refreshmts.). The path, steep and stony at places, then ascends
to the (1 hr.) saddle which bounds the lake, and leads round its bank
to the right (where Edelweiss abounds) to the (V* l^r.) chalet at the W.
end. — At the base of the Niesenhom (9113'), •/* ^'« l»igl^er up, is the
Wildhorn Club Hut (about 7880'), from which the ♦Wildhorn (10,706')
is ascended in 2^/2-3 hrs. without difficulty. The route ascends the moraine
of the Dungel OlacieVy the arSte to the K.E. of the P/affenhom,, and the
crest of the glacier to the summit: splendid view of the Jura, the Schwarz-
wald. the Todi, Mte. Leone, Mte. Rosa, Mt. Blanc, Mte. Viso, and parti-
cularly of the Plaine Horte on the Wildstrubel, and of the Diablerets.
Descent, if preferred, to the S. by the Olider du Brozet to the Hdtel Sa-
nef8c\ at Zanfleuron (2V2-3 hrs.; see p. 225).*
The *Kohrbachstein (969Cr ; 6V2 hrs., with guide) is a capital point
of view, free from difficulty. From the (4 hrs.) Rawyl Pass (see below)
we turn to the left and mount to the (IVa hr.) saddle between the Bohr-
bacbstein and the Wetzsteinhorn, and to the summit in 1 hr. more. Fossils
found here.
The Wildatmbel (W. peak 10,670'; central peak 10,667'-, E. peak
10,676|) is best ascended from the Rawyl Pass. From the Ifflgen-Inn, where
the nigbt is spent, to the Rawyl 2 hrs.; we then ascend to the left to the
height between the Weisshom and the Rohrbachstein (272 hrs.), cross
the Glacier de la Plaine Morte^ and mount the slopes of a snow-ardte to
the W. summit in 2*/b hrs., and the central peak in Va l^i^« more (from
Iffigen 71/2 hrs. in all). From the Razliberg (see above) a steep path
ascends the Flahwdnde above the Siebenbrannen to the (2 hrs.) lonely
Fluhseeli (6710'); thence over debris, moraine, and the Rdzligletseher
to the W. peak (5 hrs.) A third route (toilsome) ascends steeply from
the (2^,2 hrs.) Ritzberg Alp (see above ; bed of hay) to the Lau/bodenhorn
(%78')i then close past the summit to the Thierberg Glacier, and past
the Olettcherhom (9672') to the snow -slope of the Rdzli Olader to the
W. and the central peak (8 hrs. from Ritzberg). Descent by the Ammerten-
gletscher difficult. Over the LammerngUtseher to the Gemmi, see below.
Fbom Lenk to Osteio (7 hrs.) : over the Trnttlisberg (6713') to (4V« hrs.)
Lauienen (p. 225) , and thence over the Krinnen (5463') to (2V2 hrs.) Osteig
(p. 225). Path bad at places (guide 10-12 fr.), see R. 66.
Fbok Lbnk to Saanen (p. 182) 6 hrs., path over the Reulissenberg or
Zwitzer Egg (5636'), and down the Turbachthal. — To Adelboden over the
Hahnenmooz f see p. 171. Over the Ammerten Pats (8032'), to the S.E. of
the Ammertengrai (8580*), interesting (7 hrs., with guide).
Fboh Lenk to the Gemmi over the L&mmeri^'och (10,275') 10-11 hrs.,
toilsome. From the Siebenbrunnen the route leads past the Fluhseeli to
the Razligletscher (see above), and to the left over the Wildifrubel Glacier
to the Joeh, lying close below the W. peak of the Wildstrubel (see above ;
ascended from the pass in ^/t hr.). Descent over the crevassed Lammern-
gletseher to the Oemmi (p. l74). Or we may ascend from the Rawyl Pass
ever the Glacier de la Plaine Morte to the Joch, a longer route, but less
steep (see above).
The Ra^wtl Route (at first a camage-ioad) gradually ascends
on the W. side of the valley to (IV4 M.) the left hank of the If-
figenbach and the pleasant Poschenriedthcd. The road ends 2 M.
farther on. By the (5 min.) ^Ifftgenfall (4483' at the base) the
12*
180 RouU&S, RAWYL.
bridle-path ascends to the right. After 20 min. we turn, above
the fall, into a wooded yalley, through which the Ifflgenbach
dashes oyer its narrow rocky bed, and traverse a level dale (with the
precipices of the Rawyl on the left) to the (1/2 l*r.) chalet of Ifflgen
(5253'; rustic Inn). Here we turn sharply to the left (finger-
post), ascend through a small wood on a stony slope , skirt the face
of a cHflf, cross (10 min.) a brook, and reach (50 min.) a stone hut
on a height overlooking the Simmenthal. We next skirt theW. side
of the small (S/^hr.) Baxvyl-See (7743') and reach (1/4 hr.) a cross (la
Qrandt Croix) which marks the boundary of Bern and Valais and the
summit of the Sawyl (7943'; 4^4 hrs. from Lenk), with a refuge-
hut adjacent. The pass consists of a desolate stony plateau (Plan
des Roses) f enclosed by lofty and partially snow-clad mountains :
to the W. the long Mittaghom (08429; S.W., the Schneidehorn
(96400 and the snow -clad Wildhorn (10,722'); S., the broad
Rawylhom (^bAi') and the Wee««tcin^om (9114'); E., the Rohr-
bachstein (9d90'; see above); N.E., the extremities of the glaciers
of the Weisshom (9882').
Beyond the pass the path is bad. It passes a second small
lake, and (^/4 hr.) reaches the margin of the S. slope, which affords
a limited, but striking "'View of the mountains of the Valais.
It descends (leaving the dirty chalets of Armillon, 6926', to the
left) a steep rocky slope, and (Y2 hr.) crosses a bridge in the
valley (5970' ; a good spring here). Instead of descending to the
left to the chalets of (Vihr.) Nieder-Rawyl (¥1. les Ravins, 5768'),
we ascend slightly by a narrow path to the right, and skirt the
hill-side. Then (25 min.) a steep ascent, to avoid the Kandle (see
below); 20 min., a cross on the top of the hill (6330'), whence we
again descend to (1/2^1.) Praz Combeira (5344'), a group of huts;
and lastly a long, fatiguing descent by a rough, stony path, as-
cending at places, to (1^2 ^^^O Ayent (3400'; 3^/4 hrs. from the
pass ; Inn of the cure, good wine).
The footpath from Nieder-Bawyl to Ayent, shorter by 1 hr., leads by
the so-called 'Kandle'' (i.e. channel), Fr. Sentier du Bute, along the edge
of a water-conduit skirting a steep slope 1300' in height. Being little more
than 1' in breadth, the path is only practicable for persons with steady heads.
The path, which now improves, next leads by Orimisuat (2894')
and Champlan to (2 hrs.) Sion (p. 288 ; IOY2 hrs. firom Lenk).
56. From Than through the Simmenthal to Saanen.
341/2 M. DiLiGENCK twice daily (8 a. m. and 12 noon) direct to Saanen
in 872 hrs. (fare 9fr. 35, coap4 11 fr. 55 c-); another to Zweisimmen daily
at 4 p.m. in 5 hrs. 40 min. — One-horse carr. to Zweisimmen 28, two-
horse 50 fr., to Saanen 35 or 60, to Chateau d'Oex 40 or 70, to Aigle 80 or
150 fr.
The road skirts the Lake of Thun as far as (3 M.) OwaU{Sch.ltie ;
Post), where the Spiez road diverges to the left, and gradually
ascends towards the Niesen (p. 138). On a hill to the right rises the
WEISSENBURG. 56, Route. 181
slender tower of Strattligen (p. 137). At the bottom of the valley
flows the Kandevj in an artificial channel. The road foUows its
left hank, and then the left bank of the Simme, which falls into the
Kander near Reutigen^ a prettily situated place.
6 M. Brothftsi (*Hirsch)j with a picturesque old castle on the
hill-side. (To the E., 1 M., lies the substantial village of Wimmis,
p. 137.) The road passes through a defile (Porte) between the 8im-
menfluh and the Burgfluh into the SinunentlLal (locally called the
SiebenthaV), a fertile valley with numerous villages.
81/2 M. latterbach (2803'; Bar). To the S. is the Diemtigthal.
Fbom Lattbbbagh to Mattbn a shorter, but uninteresting route
(7 brs.) leads through the Diemtigtlutl. At Latterbach it crosses the Simme
and follows the right bank of the Kirel (passing the village of Diemtigen
on the hill to the right) and then the left bank to Wampff'en and (2V4 hrs.)
Tschu^is (3763'), where the valley divides into the Mdniggrund to the
right and the Schwendenthal to the left. We follow the latter, which
after Vi hr. again divides at Warttannen (9970^). The path now diverges
from the road, ascends to the W. through the Grimbachtlial to the (2 hrs.)
Grimmi (6644'), a little-frequented pass, and descends through the fertile
Fermelthal to (2 hrs.) Matttn (p. 178).
10 M. Erlenbaoh(2320'; *Kfone; *Ldwe), with well-built wood-
en houses.
The ^Stockhom (7195') is sometimes ascended henee by experts in
4V2 hrs. ; better from Thun^ by AfMoldingen and Obev-Stocken C^Bar, rustic)
in 5^/2 hrs., or from Blumenstein (p. 137) by the Wahlalp in 4 hrs.; descent,
if preferred, by the Wahlalp to Bad Weigsenburg, which is reached by means
of ladders. Splendid flora and grand view.
1472 M. Weissenbnrg (2418 'j *Hdt. Wemenbourg'), a group of
neat houses.
In a steep gorge, so narrow at places as almost to exclude the sun,
about V/4, M. to the N.W., lies the favourite "•"Weiaaenburg-Bad, or
Bun*chi-Bad (2770* ; a drive of 20 mln., for which 4 fr. are demanded).
The mineral water, impregnated with sulphate of lime (70°; at its
source 81**)., and beneficial for bronchial affections, is used exclusively
for drinking. The Ifeue Bad^ situated in a sheltered basin, consists of
two large houses (reading and billiard rooms ; post and telegraph office *,
pens. 10V2-13fr.); the Alte Bad, buried in the ravine V2 M. higher up, is
inferior (pension 5-7 fr.). The baths, with the extensive pine-forests
round them, belong to Messrs. Hauser.
From Weissenbcbo to thb Gurnigblbad (6 hrs.). Attractive path
through the Klus^ passing the Morgetenbachfall^ 200' high, and the Mor~
getenalp to the (SVz hrs.) Biirglen-Sattel (6434'); then down (passing Bad
ScJitcefelberg. IV4 M. to the left) to the Oantrist Pass (5217'), with a charm-
ing view, and over the Oberc Onrnigel to the (1^/4 hr.) Ovrnfgelbad (p. 133).
201/2 M.Boltigen (2726'; *H6t. Imobersteg, Bar, both moderate),
a thriving village with handsome houses, is reached beyond the
Simmenegg, or Enge , a defile formed by two rocks between which
the road passes. Above the village rise the two peaks of the Mittag-
fluh (6198'). To the left peep the snow-fields to the E. of the Rawyl
(p. 180). The coal-mines in a side-valley near Reidenbach (2756';
3/4 M. from Boltigen) account for the sign of the inn (a miner).
Fbom Reidenbach to Bulle , 24 H. , a new road. A little above
Reidenbach it diverges to the right and ascends in numerous windings
(which footpaths cut oflf) to the (6 M.) pass of the KiUhmoos (4941'). It
then descends gradually (preferable to the bad footpath) to (3 M.) Jann,
Fr. Bellegarde (3336'; H6t. de la Cascade ^ poor), a pretty village with a
182 Route 56. ZWEISIMMEN.
waterfall 86' bigh. (Path to the Schiearzsee-Bad by Neusehels, 3 hrs.., see
below.) [A cart-track to the S. ascends on the left bank of the Jaunbach
to (IVti br.) Ablantichen (4280'; Inn), at the foot of the bare rockv chain
of the Oastlose (6542'). Easy passes thence over the Grvbenherg (tSilS'), tu
the S. of the Dent de Ruth (7674'), to (3 hrs.) Saanen^ and over the Schlundi
to (2V2 hrs.) Rtickenstein (see below).] We next traverse the beantiful
pastures of the Jaunthal or Bellegarde Valley, which yield excellent
Grayere cheese (see below), and the picturesque Di/iU de la Tzintre to
(7Va M.) Charmey, Ger. Qalmie (2957'; ^TVinne; Stern) ^ a well-to-do village
and a summer resort, charmingly situated. Fine view from the church.
The road next passes Crisue^ Chdtel^ and the ruin of Mont-Salvens (rare
flora), crosses the Jaun^ and beyond Broe the Sarine, and leads through
wood to La Tour-de-TrSme (p. 227) and (7V« M.) Bulle (p. 226). — From
Cr^sus (see above) a pleasant route leads by Cemiat and the old monastery
of Valsainte , and over the Chdsalette (4659') to the (81/2 hrs.) Schioarzsee-
Bad (p. 194). On the Kalte Sense , 4 hrs. to the ^.E. of the Schwarzsee,
are the sequestered but well-kept BatTis of Sehwefelberg (4573'), with springs
impregnated with lime, whence a bridle-path crosses the OaniiHst Pass
(see above) to (2V2 hrs.) Bad Blumenstein (p. 136).
The road crosses the Simme at (2M.) Garstatt and turns suddenly
round the Laubeggstalden rock, passing a fine waterfall. We recross
the stream and pass the ruined castle of Manneriberg to (3 M.) —
251/2 M. ZweiaimmeiL (3215'; pop. 2222; *Krone; *H6t, Sim-
menihcUi Bar), the chief village in the valley, with an old church,
situated in a broad basin on the Kleine Simme. Pleasant views
from the churchyard, and from SshlossBlankenburg, now containing
public offices and a prison, V2 ^r- *o t^© S.E. (p. 179).
The road ascends gradually for 5 M., crossing the Schlundibach
at (31/2 M.) Reichenstein. (To Abldntschen, see above.) In a pine-
clad valley on the left flows the KLeine Simme, and the road
crosses Ave or six deep lateral ravines. At the top of the hill
(4227'; Inn) begin the Saanen-Moaer , a broad Alpine vaUey,
sprinkled with innumerable chalets and cottages. A striking view
is gradually disclosed of the frowning Riiblihom (7570 ')> the baro-
meter of the surrounding country (comp. p. 90), the serrated (7um-
/!ii/j (SOBS') , the snow-flelds at tYi^ SaneUch beyond it, and lastly
the huge Oelten Glacier (p. 225) to the left. Lower down we ob-
tain a fine survey of the Turbach , Lauenen , and Gsteig valleys
(p. 224).
3472 M. Saanen, Fr. Gessenay (3382'; pop. 37S6; *Grand
Logis, 01 GrosS'Landhaua, R. 21/2 ^r.; Hot. Hawwirth ; Ours, plain),
is the capital of the upper valley of the Saane (Sarine). The in-
habitants rear cattle and manufacture the famous Gruyhre and
Vacherin cheese.
To Otteiff, and over the Col de Pillon to Aigle^ see p. 225 ; over the
SaneUch to Sion, see p. 225.
Feoh Saankn to Chateau d''Oex (p. 229) 7 M. ; diligence twice daily
in li/s hr., by Rougemont^ or Bothenberg (*Pens. Cottier, prettily situated,
reasonable), the frontier between cantons Bern and Vaud, where the
language changes from German to French, and Flendniz.
IV. WESTERN SWITZERLAND. LAKE OP GENEVA.
LOWER VALLEY OP THE RHONE.
57. From Bern to Neuchatel 184
Isle of St. Peter; Chasseral, 184. — Chaumont, 186.
58. From Neuchatel to Cbauxdefonds and Locle .... 187
TSte de Bang; Col des Loges, 187. — From Convers to
Biecne through the Val St. Imier, 187. — Cotes da Doubs ;
Moulin de la Mort, 188. — From Locle to Morteau ; Col
des Boches; Lac des Brenets; Saut du Doubs, 188.
59. From NeuchHtel to Pontarller through theValdeTravers 188
Creux du Van, 189. — Bavine of the Baisse, 189.
60. From Neuchatel to Lausanne 190
I Gorges de TAreuse, 191. — Chasseron, 192.
61. From Bern to Lausanne (Vevey) 192
From Flamatt to Laupen, 192. — From Freiburg to
Payerne and Yverdon, 194. — Schwarzseebad ; Berra, 194.
— From Bomont to Bulle, 195. — Signal de Chexbres \
from Chexbres to Vevey, 195.
62. From Lausanne to Payerne and Lyss 196
From Morat to Neuchatel, 197. — From Aarberg to
Bern, 197.
63. From Lausanne to Pontarller by Vallorhe 197
From Bomainmotier to Le Pont, 198. — Lac de Joux;
Dent de Yaulion. From Le Pont to Le Brassus, 198.
64. Geneva and Environs 198
Bois de la Batie; Ferney; Saleve; Voirons, etc., 207.
65. From Geneva to Martigny by Lausanne and Villeneuve.
Lake of Geneva, N. Bank 208
Divonne ; the D61e, 210. — Signal de Bougy ; Gimel ;
Col de MarcheiruK, 211. — From Lausanne to Echal-
lens, 214. — Hauteville and Blonay; the Pleiades, 216.
— Excursions from Montreux ; Glion ; Gorge da Chau-
deron; Bocher de Naye, etc., 218. — FromAigle to Vil-
larB; Chamossaire^ Corbeyrier, 221. — From Bex to Les
Plans, 222. — Baths of Lavey ; Morcles, 228. — Pissevache ;
Gorge du Trient, 228. — Arpille ? Pierre-k-Voir, 224.
66. From Saanen to Aigle over the Col de Pillon .... 224
The Lauenenthal, 225. — From Gsteig to Sion over the
Sanetsch,225. — Excursions from Ormont Dessus; Creux-
de-Champ, Palette, Oldenhom, Diableret, etc., 225. —
From Ormont Dessus to Villars or Gryon over the Pas
de la Croix. Pic de Chauasy; Leysin, 226.
67. From Bulle to Chateau d'Oex and Aigle 226
Ascent of the Mol^son from Bulle or Albeuve, 227. —
From Montbovon over the Jaman to Montreux or Vevey, 228.
68. From Bex to Sion. Pas de Cheville 229
69. From Geneva to St. Maurice by Bouveret. Lake of
Geneva, S. Bank. Val d'lUiez 231
From Thonon to Samoens. Valley of the Drance, 231. —
Ascent of the Blanchard from St. Gingolph, and to Port
ValaiSj 232. — Excursions from Champa ; Culet; Dent
du Midi; Tour Salli^res; Dents Blanches; from Cham-
p^ry to Samoens and Sixt (Col de Conx, Col de la Gol^se,
Col de Sagerou, etc.), 2aS, 234.
184
57. From Bern to Nenchdtel.
41 M. Railway in l«/4 23/4 hrs. (fares 7 fr. 15, 5 fr. 20, 3 fr. 80 c).
Bern see p. 129; from Bern to (21 M.) Bienne see p. 11.
(Munsterthal Railway to Bdle see R. 2 ; by 8t Imier to Chauxde-
fonds see p. 187.) Near the beautiful avenues, to the S.W. of
Bienne , the train reaches the Lake of Bienne (1424 '; 91/2 M. long,
272 M. broad). As the train skirts the W. bank, we obtain a very
pleasing view of the lake, enhanced in clear weather by the distant
Alps. — Beyond (2772 M.) Twann, Fr. Douanne (•Bar), we pass
a fall of the Twannbach. 29 M. LigerZy Fr. Olere$8€,
To the left, in the lake, lies the Isle of St. Peter, clothed with
beautiful old oaks, vineyards, and fruit-trees, where Rousseau spent two
months in 1766. (The so-called ^SchaflheThaus% in which his room is
shown, is now a good inn.) Boat from Twann or from Ligers, there and
back, 4, from Xeuveville 6 fr. — The lake having been lowered by the
construction of an artificial channel for the lower Zihl, the island of
St. Peter is now connected on the S. side wiUi the smaller Kaninehen-
Instl^ and with the mainland near Cerlier (see below).
3072 M. NenyeTille, Ger. Neutnsiadt ^Faucon; Trot* Pouions)^
a pleasant little town (2270 inh.), the last in Canton Bern, is
the first place where French is spoken. The Museum^ near the
station (adm. 50c.), and the house of Dr. Gross contain interesting
antiquities from the lake-dwellings and the Burgundian wars. On the
Schlossherg (1752'), 20niin. from the station, stands a ruined castle of
the Bishops of Bale (fine view from the top and on the way up),
near which the Bion forms a waterfall (often dry in summer).
To the N. of Neureville rises the (31/2 hrs.) 'Ohasaeral (5380'; Chalet-
Hdtel du Cf^aneral,^ with 20 beda, at the top, fair), or Oestltr^ in three
terraces, studded on the 8. side with numerous villages amid green meadows.
The view, grander than from the Weissenstein (p. 14), embraces W. Switzer-
land, the Black Forest, the Vosges, and the Alps. — From Bienne (p. 10)
a road ascends nearly to the top (12 M.). The most direct ascent is from
St. Imier (2V2-3 hrs. ; see p. 187).
The old town of Cerlier, or Erlach (Ours)y lies opposite Xeuveville, at
the N. foot of the wooded JoUmoni (1980'; V« hr.), a charming point of
view. The 'Teufelsburde' is a group of laige erratic blocks on the sum-
mit. — Near Cerlier on the £. bank of the lake, at ZiUcherty and at
MSrigen^ farther N., numerous remains of ancient lake-dwellings have been
discovered.
Near (33 M.) Landeron we quit the Lake of Bienne; the little
town lies on the left; farther £. rises the JoUmont (see above).
3472 M. Crewicr, with its church on a lofty rock; 3572 M. Comaux.
Beyond a tunnel the train reaches (38 M.) St. Blaise , skirts the
slope of the mountain, and beyond another tunnel affords a survey
of the Lake of Nenchfctel (1427'), which it soon reaches. The
lake, the Roman Lacus Ebrodunensis , the level of whieh has
lately been lowered 6' by the enlargement of its outlet, is 25 M.
long and 4-6 M. broad (greatest depth 500^). Near the N.E. end
the Thiele or Zihl emerges from the lake. The smiling, vine-
clad W. bank , above which rise the abrupt Jura Mts., affords an
extensive view, from the Bernese Alps to Mont Blanc; but the
lake itself is far inferior in beauty to those of the higher Alps.
NEUCHATEL. 57. Route. 185
41 M. Keuch&tel. — Railway Station on the hill-side above the
town, 1 M. from the lake. Omnibus between the post-office (close to the
principal Place^ by the lake) and the station dOc., box 15c. (under SOlbs.).
Persons bonnd for the museum or other points in the N. part of the town
may descend the path and steps to the left, but the main road leads to the
hotels on the lake. — Steamboat on the Lake of Neuch&tel, see pp. 190, 197.
Hotel*. ^Bkllsvub, in an open situation on the lake, R., L., & A. 4-5,
D. 4-5, omnibus 1 fr. ; Gbano Hot. do Lag , near the lake, R^, L., & A.
from 21/2 , I>- 31/2, omnibus «/* fr. \ H6t. dks Alpks, at the station, well
spoken of; Fadcon, R. 2-3, D. 2V2 fr. ; *HdT. du Soleil and Hot. nu Com-
MEBCB, near the post-office; Hot. dd Port. — Pens. Bobel (Villa Bur-
ville)^ well situated above the town, 4-5 fr., R. extra.
Oafes. Beer at the Tonhalle^ at the upper end of the Rue du Seyon,
and the Brasserie Strauss^ next the Hdtel du Lac. Cercle du Afusie, in
the Palais Dupeyrou (p. 186; a club to which strangers are admitted).
Several other caf^s at the harbour. — Rail. Resieturantj D. 2Vt fr.
Neuchdtd (1433'; 16,000 inh.), Ger. Neuenburgj the capital of
the canton of that name (formerly a principality of the Orange
family, under Prussian sway from 1707 to 1814, when it joined the
Confederation, and finally given up by Prussia in 1857), is charm-
ingly situated on the Lake of Neuchatel, at the base and on the
slopes of the Jura. The modern part of the town, with its handsome
houses, grounds, and *Quay a mile long, lies on the lake, occupying
a strip of land partly formed by the deposits brought down by the
Seyon from the Chasseral. It commands a fine view of the Alps
from Pilatus to Mont Blanc. In 1839, in order to gain building
room, the Seyon was carried into the lake above the town by m«an3
of the Tunnel de la Trouee du Seyony 176 yds. long.
The Chateau, on the hill above the town, the oldest part of
which, dating from the Burgundian period, was restored in 1866,
is now the seat of the cantonal government. Near it is the *Templb
DU Haut, an abbey-church of the 12th century. The choir contains
a handsome Gothic monument with 15 life-size figures, erected in
1372 by Count Louis of Neuchitel , and restored in 1840. There
are also memorial-stones to the Prussian governor Oeneral v. Zastrow
(d. 1836), and the reformer Farel (d. 1565). — The Place in front
of the church Is adorned with a Statue of Farel, erected in 1875.
The platform on the N.E. side of the church affords a fine survey
of the lake and the Bernese Alps. A great part of the cloisters on
the W. side is new.
The College, on the lake , contains a valuable natural history
collection, founded by Agassiz (p. 168) and Ooulon, a considerable
library, antiquities from lake- dwellings , etc. (open on Thurs.
and Sun., 2-4; at other times 50 c). A little to the S. rises
a bronze statue, erected in 1855, of David de Purry (d. 1786), a
native of Neuchatel, who bequeathed 41/2 million francs to the town.
On the lake, farther to the N. , beyond the ColUge Municipaly is
the new Mus^e de8 Bbaux-Abts, a handsome Renaissance build-
ing, completed in 1884, containing an interesting Collection of
Antiquities on the groundfloor, and the. mupicipal Picture Qalleryy
186 BouU57, NBUCHATEL.
a collection chiefly of modern Swiss woiks, on the first floor (adm.
to each collection V2 ^^-i ^^^^ o^ Sun. 1-4 and Thurs. 10-12).
Two rooms at the entrance contain portraits of Prussian Kings from
Frederick I. to Frederick William IV., and numerous other reminiscences
of the period of Prussian rule. The finest works in the next rooms
are: Anter: Sunday afternoon*, Retreat of the French army under
Bourbaki, in Feb. 1871 ; A. H. Berihoud : The Jungfrau \ Kuin of Weis-
senau; L, Berihoud: Grossing the Tiber; The Frohnalp; F. Bevthoud^
Young Savoyard-, Calame: Rosenlaui Glacier; '^Honte Rosa*, Ceppei^ Binaldo
and Armida; K. Oirardet: *'Huguenot assembly surprised by Bom. Oath,
soldiery ; Cromwell reproached by his daughter Mrs. Claypole for the con-
demnation of Charles I. ; Old Franciscan monastery at Alexandria ; Land-
scape in Uie Val de Travers; B. Oirardet: A father''s blessing; The con-
fession; Oleyre^ Herciiles andOmphale; QroBdaude: The Doge Marino
Falieri; 'Vive le vin de 1834*; Is€U>ey^ Sea-piece; Jacquaady Arrest
of Rousseau in 1762; A. de Meuren: Piazza in Capri; The Bemina Pass;
Pasture near Iseltwald; M. de Meuron: View of Rome with the Baths of
Caracalla; Modem Rome; The Walensee; The Linththal near Kafels; The
great oak; Moritt^ Henry II. of Longueville in the chateau of Colombier;
L. Robert: ''Basilica of 8. Maria Fuori le Mura near Rome, after the fire of
1828; Roman oxen; *Fishermen of the Adriatic; Robert -Flettrp^ Scene
of the Massacre of St. Bartholomew ; Oh. Tschaggeny^ Flemish bridal pro-
cession of the 17th cent.; E. Tsehoffgeny, Mother and child pursued by
a bull; C. Vemet, Bivouack of Cossacks. Also a number of casts, water-
colours, drawings, and engravings.
Next the museum is an interesting ^8epulere Prihiatorique',
discovered among the lake - dwellings at Auyemier in 1876.
— Near the museum, 1/4 M. from the lake, is the Palctis Rouge-
mont or Dtipet/row, with a pleasant garden. On the ground-floor is
the CercU du Music (p. 185). At the back is a building containing
the Musee Challande, a collection of stuffed Alpine animals (1 fr.}.
The Observatory , erected for the benefit of the watch-manu-
facturerg, is in telegraphic communication with Chauxdefonds and
Loele (p. 188J. The adjoining Mail, a grass-plot planted with
trees, commands a charming view of the lake and the Alps.
Neuchatel is noted for its Charitable Institutions, Buch as
the Munioipal Hospital , founded by David de Purry (p. 185), the
Pourtai^s Hospital , near the Bern gate , and the Prlfargier LunaJtie
Asylum, 3 M. from Neuchatel, erected by M. de Meuron in 1844.
The ^Ohaonumt (3845'; ''H&Ul du Chaumont, a large house near the top,
3700', pens. 6-9 fr. ; Sdtel du ChdteaUy lower down, 3 min. to the S.E.), a
spur of the Jura, rising to the N., is the finest point of view near Neu-
chatel. The footpath to it diverges from the Chauxdefonds road, IV4 M.
from Xeuchatel, and leads to the top in 1 V2 hr. (carriage-road Vs hr. loiiger ;
omnibus twice a day in summer, up i'/2, down IV4 fr. ; carr. with one
horse 10, with two horses 20 fr.). Kear the hotels at the top are a chapel
and a schoolhouse. The view (indicator of the Swiss Alpine Club at the
top; good panorama by Imfeld) embraces the lakes of Neuchatel, Morat,
and Bienne, the towns of Soleure, Bern, Freiburg, and the fertile hill-
country lying between them, with the Alpine chain from the Sentis to
Hont Blanc in the background. The afternoon light is best, but a perfectly
clear horizon is rare. — An attractive route, following the mountain-ridge
the whole way, leads in 4 hrs. from the Chaumont to the Chasseral (p.
184). — Nearer the town there are pleasant wood-walks: to the Roche de
VErtnitage, Pierre d Bot, Gorges du Seyothy Chanelaz (p. 190), etc. — ^Gorges
de VAreuse, see p. 191; *THe de Rang, see p. 187. — Numerous Celtic
remains have been found at la Tine^ near Marin (Pens. Nussl^, moderate),
not far from St. Blaise (p. 184).
187
68. From VencMtel to Chauxdefonds and Lode,
Railway (Juroj Bem^ d; Lucerne) from Xeuchatel via Chauxdefonds to
(23V2 M.) Locle in 2V4 hn- (fares 6fr. 40, 4fr. 10, 3fr. 15 c.). This route,
as far as Hauts-Geneveys, is very attractive ; views to the left.
Ncuehdtel, p. 185. The train skirts the slopes behind the town
and the castle, at first running parallel to the Lausanne line, crosses
the SeyoThy and beyond a tunnel of 748 yds. affords a superb *yiew
of the lake and the Alps , which improyes as we ascend (Bernese
Alps to the E. ; Mont Blanc to the S.). 3 M. Corcelles (1879').
Two tunnels.
7 M. CharribreUen, beautifully situated almost perpendicularly
above the valley of the Areuse (p. 189). Fine view near the Buffet.
The train backs out from the station towards the N.E. and skirts a
wooded chain of hills. To the right is the fertile Fa2 de RuZj watered
by the Seyon, with its numerous villages , above which rises the
Chaumont (p. 186).
IOV2 M. Lea Geneveya-sur-Coffrane (28700. Then (I2V2 M.)
Les Hants - Oeneveys (3136'), the highest point of view on the
line, where Mont Blanc becomes very conspicuous.
The "^Tdte de Bang (4668' i Inn), ascended in IV4 hr. from Hauts-
Geneveys (by a lane to the left, 10 min. beyond the village), commands
a magnificent and extensive view Of the Jura westwards to the plateau of
Langres, of the Vosges, and of the Alps from the Sentis to Hont Blanc
and the mountains of Geneva. — A path leads hence along the hill to
the ^Ool dea Logea (4219'; '*ff6tel d la Vue des Alpes\ on the road from
KeuchHtel to Chauxdefonds. View similar, but less extensive. Descent
either to (IV2 M.) Hauts-Geneveys or to (3 M.) Chauxdefonds.
The train passes through a tunnel, 2 M. long, under the Col des
Logea (7mln.) to (16 M.) Les Confers, a solitary station in & rock-
girt valley, 1 M. from the village of that name.
From Convers to Bienne, 30 M., railway in I'/a hr. (4 fr. 80, 3 fr.
40, 2 fr. 40 c). The line traverses the industrious Val St. Jmier, watered
by the 8uze or Scheuss, and passes the village of Les Convers. 7 H. Renan;
OVa M. Sonviliert with the picturesque ruins of the castle of Erguel on a
pine-clad rock. 11 M. St. Imier, Ger. St. Imer (2670' i 7114 inh. ^ Couronne;
H6t. de Ville; *H6i. des Treize Cantons)^ capital of the valley, with consid-
erable watch-manufactories. (Ascent of the Chasseral, p. 184, by a bridle-
path, 2V2-3 hrs). — I2V2 M. Villeret; 15 M. Courtelary - Goifnoret ; 17 M.
Cortebert; 19 M. Corgimont. 20 M. Sonceboz^ and thence to (30 M.) BiennCy
see p. 10.
Beyond a tunnel , ^/^ M. long (3 min.), under Mont Sagne , and
a shorter one, we reach —
I8V2M. I.aChaTix-de-roxid8(3254'; 22,456 inh.; ^FleurdeLys,
B. 2Y2, B. Ifr.; ^Liond'Or)^ an important watch-making town,
lying in a remote Alpine valley, nearly as high as the top of Snow-
don, and badly supplied with water. The climate is ungenial, fruit-
trees are rare, and com only ripens in warm summers. The divi-
sion of labour is here carried out to its fullest extent , each part of
the watch being made by a distinct class of workmen. If time per-
mit , the traveller may visit the Church with its skilfully vaulted
roof and fine pulpit, and the Collhge, containing the municipal pic-
ture-gallery (good pictures by Swiss masters), the library, etc.
188 Route 68. LE LOCLE.
Prom Ghauxdefonds ti> the -^Konlia de la Kort in the picturesque
Cites du Doubs^ a pleasant day'^s excursion. The road leads past the ''Res-
taur. Bel'Air to Le Basset., descends through wood towards the Boubs
(Restaur, de Brenetet), and skirts its bank to (9 M.) Biaufond. Then by
boat to (V2 br.) Les Refrains.^ and on foot through grand and wild scen-
ery to the (>/4 hr.) Moulin de la Mort (refreshm.)- Opposite is the curious
Passage des Echelles^ used by the inhabitants. — Here, and for several
leagues farther N., the Doubs forms the boundary between France and
Switzerland. Interesting walk through its narrow and picturesque rocky
valley to La Goule, (4Vs H.) Bief d'Etoz^ and (4i/2 M.) Seigneligier (Gheval
Blanc), whence a diligence runs several times daily to Tavannes and 0 lo-
velier (p. 9).
A pleasant footpath leads to the W. of La Chaux-de-Fonds to (U/i hr.)
Z/es Flanehetfes (Restaur.) and the (IV2 hr.) 8aut du Douhs (see below).
The railway bends suddenly to the S.W. — 21 M. Eplatures»
231/2 M. Le Lode (3020'; 10,464 inh. ; *H6L des TroU RoU;
Hot, du Jura; H6t. NationoT), famed for its watches and jewellery.
(Chronometers at Ulysse Nardin's.)
FsoM LocLE TO MoBTBAU (Besau^ou), 8 M., railway in 35 min. This
new line facilitates the excursion to the Saut du Doubs (see below),
and the road from the Col des Roches to the river is also very interOvSt-
ing. — 11/4 M. Col-de»-Roche$ , the station for Les Brenets (see below). To
the right, the Col with its tunnel (see below); the line passes through
another tunnel, then through a second, and descends into the valley of
the Doubs, affording picturesque views to the right. — 4 M. Villers-
U-Lac^ a French locality of 3063 inh., 1 M. to the S.E. of the Lac des
Brenets. The line skirts the right bank of the Doubs, and then traverses
the river. 8 M. MorteaUy a little town of 2042 inh., pleasantly situated
on the left bank (custom house examination for travellers coming from
Locle). Hence to Besangon 40 M. (see Baedeker, le Nord de la France).
CoL DES Roches. Lac des Beenets. Saut du Doubs. Prom the
station of Col-des-Roches a road leads to (2 H.) Les Brenets. Xear the sta-
tion, on the left, we pass a large subterranean mill, driven by the Bied
which has been diverted by a tunnel 892' long. The road passes through
the Col des Roches, a barrier of rocks which here closes the valley, by
means of a tunnel begun in 1799, renewed and enlai^ed after a landslip
in 1870, and then divides: to the left to Morteau, to the right to Les
Brenets. The latter branch leads through a rock-gallery, affording a fine
view of the upper valley of the Doubs. Lower down, the Bied issues
from its tunnel (see above), forming a waterfall. About IV2M. from the Col
we reach a second gallery, beyond which we descend to the (V4 M.) pretty
village of Les Brenets (*Couronne; 'Lion d'Or), and (8/4 M.) the *Iiac des
Brenets, a lake 3 M. in length, which the Doubs forms above the
waterfall. A boat (3 fr., there and back-, preferable to the path over the
rocks, and also to the small steamboat which plies on Sundays) now
conveys us down the dark-green lake, gradually narrowing between pre-
cipitous wooded rocks, and presenting a series of very picturesque scenes.
In 35 min. we reach the '^Saut du Doubs {^Hdt. du Saut du Boubs., with
garden, on the Swiss side; Hdt. de France., unpretending, on the French
side), a picturesque waterfall SCK high , of which we obtain a fine view
from a point high above it (6 min. from the French inn). Thence to
the foot of the fall, 5 min. more.
»
^ 59. From Nenchatel to Pontaxlier throngh the Yal
t de Travers.
i 83 M. Railway in lV4-2»/4 hrs.; fares 6 ft. 10, 4 fr. 70, 3 fr, 65 c. (From
; Pontarlier to Paris by Dijon, express in lOVz hrs.*, from Bern to Paris
• 141/4 hrs.). This Jura Railway (comp. p. 187) also traverses a most pictur-
esque country. The most striking points are between Neuchatel and Noi-
COUVET. 59, Route. 1 89
raigue, between Boverease and the last tunnel above St. Salpice, and bet-
ween St. PieA-e de la Cluse and Pontarlier. Finest views to the left.
Neuchdtel, see p. 185. The line, running parallel with that to
Yverdon (p. 190) as far as Auvernier, crosses the Seyon, Beyond a
short tunnel under the Val de Travers road we enjoy a beautiful
•View of the lake and the Alps (comp. p. 187). The train skirts
lofty vine-clad slopes, and crosses the Gorge of Serrilres by a bold
viaduct. In the valley is Suchard^a large chocolate factory, and
above it rises the small chateau of Beauregard.
4 M. Auvernier ; the little town lies below, to the left (1480';
Hdtel du Lac J moderate). The train diverges to the right from the
Yverdon line (p. 190) , and as it ascends we enjoy an admirable
view of the lake and the Alps. On entering the rocky and wooded
ravine of the Areuse we observe the lofty viaduct of the Lausanne
line (p. 191) far below us to the left. The last glimpse of the lake
down this romantic valley is particularly picturesque. "We soon enter
a tunnel, high on the N. slope of the valley, almost under the station
of Chambrelien (p. 187). Three more tunnels, before the second
of which is the station of Champ du Moulin (2020' ; H6t. du Sentier
des Gorges, trout) in a picturesque situation (hence to the Gorges
de V Areuse, see p. 191). An artificial conduit, 8 M. long, supplies
Neuchatel with spring water from this point.
12 M. Koiraigue (2360'), at the N. base of the Creux du Van.
The valley, called the Val de Travers from this point to St. Sulpice,
suddenly changes its character here, and the Aieuse now flows calmly
through a grassy dale.
From Noiraigue a steep path ascends the ^ Creux du Yan (48070 in
Shrs., a better route than from Boudry (p. 190) or St. Auhin (p. 191), as the
striking view, extending from Filatus to Hont Blanc, is suddenly revealed.
At the top is a basin, 500' deep, shaped like a horse-shoe, and nearly 3 M.
in circumference. When the weather is about to change, this 'hollow of
the wind' is filled with surging white vapour, which rises and falls like
the steam in a boiling cauldron, but does not quit the basin. The phe-
nomenon seldom. lasts above an hour. A gun-shot produces a rattling echo,
resembling a volley of musketry. Beautiful view of the Alps from Pilatus
to Mont Blanc. Rare plants and minerals are found here.
Beyond (14^/2 M.) Travers (2392') are asphalt-mines on the
opposite side of the valley with a tunnel. (From Travers a branch-
line runs in the bottom of the valley via Couvett Mdtiers j and
Fleurier, to Buttes and St. Sulpice, p. 190.) — 17 M. Couvet(2418';
^Bellevue') , a pretty town. Here , and at M6tiers and Fleurier , ex-
cellent absinth is manufactured.
The line again ascends the N. slope of the valley. Opposite, far
below, lies Mdtiers^-Travers] 2415'; Maison de Ville) , where, by
permission of the Prussian governor Lord Keith, Rousseau spent
some time after his expulsion from Yverdon by the government of
Bern, and wrote his 'Lettres de la Montague'.
The ^Ravine of the Baisse (affluent of the Areuse), with its picturesque
rocks and Waterfalls, deserves a visit. About Va M. from Motiers we pass
a bridge and follow the brook to the right, ascending a pretty wooded gorge.
In 1 hr. we reach a new path, leading to the top (35 min.). From this
190 BouUeo. BOUDRY. From Neuchdiel
point , with, the aid of a gtdde or a good map , we may ascend the
Ghasaeron (p. 192). — Behind Motien is the OrotU de MOtiert^ a limestone
cavern, one arm of which is 3Vz H!. long. It may be safely explored for
about Vt^* (rough walking-, swarms of bats). At the entrance is a waterfall.
19 m. BoveressCj above the village of the name. In the valley, far-
ther on, is Ileiirier(2454'; ^Couronnc), with extensive watch factories.
Beyond a long tunnel , we observe 8t. SuVpice (2557') helow ns, on
the left. Scenery again very picturesque. Two bridges and two tun-
nels. In the valley, 1 V2 M. to the W. of Fleurier, the Areuse, which
probably flows under ground from the Lac des TaiU^res , rises in
the form of a considerable stream, soon capable of working a number
of mills. Road and railway pass through the defile of La Chairu.
The line attains its highest point, and then enters a monotonous
green valley with beds of peat. At (25 M.) Les Verri^rei SniBses
(3060'; *Balanct), the last Swiss village, the French 'Army of the East*
under Bourbaki crossed the frontier in Feb. 1871. The train enters
France before reaching (26 M.) Les Vtrtilrea de Joux, or Verrilres-
Fran^aises (3015'). Near St. Pierre de La Cluse the scenery again
becomes Interesting. The defile of La Cluse^ which railway and
road both traverse, is fortified; on the left rises the ancient Fort
de Jonx, which was blown up with dynamite in 1877, overtopped
by a new fort on a bold rock to the right. Mirabeau was impris-
oned here in 1775 at the instance of his father; and In 1803 Tons-
saint rOuverture , the negro chieftain of St. Domingo, died in the
fort, where he had been confined by Napoleon.
We cross the Douhsj which drains the Lac de 8t. Pointy 3Y2 M.
to the S.W., and follow its left bank to Pontarlier. Pretty scenery.
33 M. Pontarlier (2854'; 4675 Inhab.; Hdtel de la Poste, Grande
Rue, R. 2 fr. ; H6t. de la France ; *RaiL Restaur,, D. incl. wine
3-4 fr.), a small town on the Douhs. Luggage examined here. Op-
posite the station are the Collhge and the Telegraph Office. To the
right as the station Is entered, is the large Hospital^ with a turret.
From Pontarlier to Co»$onay and Yallorbe, see p. 198.
60. From KeucMtel to Lausanne.
46VaM. Railway in 2-21/2 hrs.i fares 8fr., 5fr. 80, 4fr. 20 e. (to Geneva
in 2V4-5hr8.5 fares 13 fr, 10, 9fr. 40, 6fr. 80 c.). — Steamboat on the Xal;e
of Neuchdtel between Neuch2,tel and Morat (p. 197), and between Neuch&tel
and Estavaiftr only (twice daily in IVs hr. , corresponding with the train
to Freiburg, p. 194).
Neuchdtel , see p. 185. Route to (4M.) Auvemier, see p. 189.
The Lausanne train , diverging from the Pontarlier line, quits the
lake, to which it returns beyond Bevaix (see p.l91). 5 M. Colombier
(Maison de ViUeJj with an old chlteau converted into a barrack, and
beautiful avenues, yields excellent white wine. (On the lake, 1^/2^,
to the E., is the Chanilaz Hydropathic^ with pleasure-grounds and
charming views; pens. 6-8 fr.) — 6 M. Boudry (1693'); the little
town (1542'; Maison de ViUe)^ the birthplace of Marat, lies below
the line, on the right bank of the Areuse, 1 M. from the station.
to Geneva, YVERDON. 60, Route. 191
The *aorges <le FAreuM are interesting. Leaying stat. Boudry, we cross
the line (passing the viaduct on the left) and pass through the village of TroiS'
rods. Before the last house we turn to the left, between walls, and descend
in 20 min. to the entrance to the ravine. A path, hewn in the rook at
places, a£fords striking views of the narrow, wooded gorge, above which
the rocks and trees frequently meet. In 5 min. we come to a path to the
left, leading to the Chalet aux CUes (donation for the use of the path
expected). In 20 min. more we observe the Qrotte aux Fours^ above us,
on the right, with a large entrance (easily accessible). Farther on, the
Pontarlier railway runs above the gorge, on the right, and still higher is
the carriage-road. We next reach (55 min.; 1 hr. 40 min. from Boudry
station) the Champ du MovUn^ picturesquely situated (station for several
trains). — Perhaps a more convenient way of making this excursion is to
take the train to Champ du Moulin and then to walk down through the
Gorges to Boudry. Another path descends to the Gorges from Chmn^re'
lien (p. 189). Noiraigue (p. 189) is 3 M. distant.
From Boudry to the Creux du Van (p. 189) 3 hrs^
Beyond Boudry the train is cairied by a great yiaduct over the
deep Talley of the Areuae, The stream falls into the lake near Cof-
taillod^ where the best red wine in the canton is produced. 9 M.
Bevaix (1568'). The line returns to the bank of the lake, which it
follows to Yverdon. 11 M. QorgierSt, Atibin; 14 M. VaumarcuSf
with the fine well-preserved castle of that name. At (16 M.) Con-
eise (1453' ; Ecu de France) many traces of ancient lake- villages
have been found. To the right, above, lies CorcelleSf near which
are three blocks of granite, 5' to 8' in height, placed in the form of
a triangle, but not visible from the line. They are said to comme-
morate the battle of Grandson, but are more probably of Celtic origin.
18 M. Onnens-Bonvillan,
21 M. €FrandBon (TAon d'Or; Croix Rouge) ^ a picturesque little
town (1762 inh.) probably of Roman origin, has a handsome old
CMteau of Baron de Blonay, now restored. (*View from the terrace.)
The old Churchj Romanesque with a Gothic choir , which once be-
longed to a Benedictine abbey, contains columns with interesting
capitals.
The chateau of Grandson, originally the seat of a family of that name
and said to have been built about the year 1000, was taken by the Bern-
ese in 1476, and in Feb. 1476 captured by Charles the Bold, Duke of
Burgundy, who, contrary to the treaty, caused the Bernese garrison to be
hanged or drowned. A few weeks later, on 3rd March , 1476, the Duke
was surprised by the advancing Confederates near Grandson, and notwith-
standing his numerical superiority (60,000 Burgundians, it is said, against
20,000 Swiss) was utterly defeated. Part of the enormous booty captured
on the occasion is still preserved in the Swiss arsenals.
The train skirts the S.W. end of the lake, and crosses the Thille
or Toile near its influx into the lake.
24 M. Yverdon (1433'; 5968 inh. ; *H6t. de Londres, R. & A,
2Y2» B. 172^-; *Croix Fidirale)^ the R^oman Ebrodunumy is a thriv-
ing little town on the Toile , with pleasant promenades and fine
views. The Chdteau, erected by Duke Conrad of ZUhringen in 1135,
and the seat of Pestalozzi's famous school in 1805-26, is now oc-
cupied by the town-schools, a library, and a museum of Celtic,
Roman, and other antiquities. To the S.E. (8/4 M.) are a Sulphur
192 Route 61. LAUPEN, From Bern
Baih (pens. 7 fi.) and the adjoining Pens, de la Prairie, with ex-
tensive grounds.
The OluuMieroii (5286') , a height of the Jura, K.W. of Yrerdon, com-
mands a fine view. Diligence twice daily in 8V4 hrs. to 8te. Croix (SSSd';
Pens. Jacques^ IV2-2 hrs. from the top), noted for its musical boxes. — The
Aiguille de Beaulmts (5128') and Mont Suehet (5236'} are also fine points
(8V2-4 hrs. 5 comp. p. 198).
From Yverdon to Pay erne and Freiburg, see p. 194.
The train quits the lake, and enters the broad valley of the Toile,
a stream formed by the confluence of the Orbe (p. 197) and the Ta-
lent near stat. Ependes. To the W. rises the long chain of the Jura :
the Aiguille de BeauLmes and Mont8uch€t[^QQ above), between which
in the distance are the Mont d'Or, the Dent de VauUon (p. 198),
and Mont Tendre. 30 M. Chavomay-Orbe (the small town of Orbe
lies 1^2 M. to the N.W. ; p. 197). Two tunnels under the Maurt-
mont. Then (33^2 M.) Eclepens (p. 197). The train enters the
wooded valley of the V^noge, which is connected with the Tolle by
the Canal d'EntrerocheSj passes La Sarraz (p. 198), and stops at —
38 M. GosBOnay (1850'; H6t. dee Orands Moulins)', the little
town lies on a wooded hill to the right. — To Vallorbe and Pontar-
Her, see p. 198.
Beyond r43 M.) BiM^t^n^, to the S., appear the mountains of
Savoy. 441/2 M. Renens.
46V2 M. Lausanne (p. 212).
61. From Bern to Lausanne (Vevey).
61 M. Eailwat to Freiburg in 1-1 1/4 hr. (3 fr. 76, 2fr. 70c., 2 fr.); to
Chexbres in 3-3V2hrs. (9fr. 70, 7 fr., 5fr. 20c.)» to Lausanne in 3V4-4 hrs.
(10 fr. 90, 7fr. 85, 5fr. 80c.)-, to Geneva in 5V2-6V2hr8. (17 fr. 90, 12 fr. 35c.,
9fr.). — Travellers to Vevey had better alight at Chexbres (comp. p. 195)!
We choose seats on the left, bearing in mind, however, that the train,
after leaving the Bern station, reverses its direction and runs towards the W.
Btrn, see p. 129. To the left we obtain a glimpse of the Bernese
Alps, and the mountains of the Simme and Sarine valleys, among
which the serrated Brenleire (7743') and Foli^rant (7690^ are con-
spicuous ; more to the right is the MoMson ; to the left, in front of
the high Alps, is the pyramidal Niesen. This view is soon hidden
by wood. 3 M. Bumplitz; 6 M. Thorishaus. The train descends and
crosses the Sense , the boundary between the cantons of Bern and
Freiburg. 9 M. Flamatt.
To the W. (572 M.j diligence daily in 1 hr., via Neueneek) lies Laupen
(Bdr), a small town at the confluence of the Sense and the Sarine, famed
in the annals of Switzerland for a victory gained in 1339 by the Bernese
under Rudolph von Erlach (p. 131) over the arniy of Freiburg and the allied
nobility of the tJechtland, Aargau, Savoy, and Burgundy. The anniversary
is kept every five years. The battlefield on the Bramberg, Vs ^> to the
K. of the road to Neueneek, ia marked by a monument, erected in 1829.
Beyond the next tunnel we enter the green valley of the
Tafema-Bach. 121/2 M. Sehmiiteni 16 M. Diidingen (Fr. Gwin),
where we cross a viaduct, 100' high. Beyond Balliswylj which lies
to the left, the train crosses the huge*SarineViaductf 260' in height,
to Lausanne. FREIBUBG. 61. Route, 193
and nearly 1/4 M. long, borne by six iron buttresses witb stone foun-
dations.
20 M. Freiburg. — Gband-H6t. ds Fbibou&q (Monnetf), near the
station, R., L., 4^ A. 4, D. S^/t-i^/^tr.^ ^Hotbl Natiohai. (formerly des Mer-
ders)j near the church of St. Kicholas, B., L., J^ A. 34, D. 3V2-4 fr. ;
similar charges; '^Hotel obs Chabpentisbs. — Bail. Restaurant, with a
few rooms.
Freiburg (2100'; pop. 11,546), Yi.Fribourgj the capital of Can-
ton Freiburg, the ancient Uechtland, founded in 1175 by Berthold
of Zabringen (p. 130), stands like Bern on a rocky height nearly sur-
rounded by the 8arine (Saane). Most of the inhabitants speak French.
The town lies on the boundary between the two tongues, and Ger-
man is still spoken in the lower quarters.
As the picturesque situation of the town and its bridges is not seen from
the railway-station, the following walk of 1^/2 hr. is recommended. From
the station past the new Protestant church and through the town to the Rath-
haus and the church of St. Nicholas; then, to the left, cross the Great
Suspension Bridge (p. 194), and ascend the road to the right to the Pont
de Ootteron ; cross this, and follow a road leading to the hamlet of Bour-
gvillon. After 6 min. we take a short-cut to the right, regain the road, and
descend to the right, through an old gateway, to the Loretto Chapel (fine
view of the town). Kear a small chapel, farther on, we obtain to the left
a view of the valley of the Sarine, which has been converted into a
reservoir (Lac de Perolles). Our path descends rapidly from the chapel to
the cattle-market, beyond which we cross the Sarine by a stone bridge
and either ascend by the steps to the Bathhaus, or follow the road to the
left leading to the station.
The Gothic *Ghx7bch of St. Nioholas, founded in 1283, and
completed In 1500, has been recently restored. Handsome tower,
280' high, erected in 1452. Portal adorned with curious reliefs.
The ^ Organ y one of the finest in Europe, with 67 stops and 7800
pipes, some of them 32' in length, was built by Al. Mooter (d. 1839),
whose bust has been placed under the instrument to the right. Perfor>
mances in summer at 1.30 and (except Sat. and the eves of festivals) 8 p.m.
daily. If fewer than 20 persons assemble, there is no performance unless
the sum paid for the tickets is made up to 20 fir. — The late-Oothic carved
Stalls deserve notice. The second chapel on the S. side contains a pleas-
ing fine modern picture by Desckwanden^ St. Anne and St. liary. The choir
has three modem stained-glass windows (St. Nicholas and other saints).
A tablet on the S. pillar at the entrance to the choir is to the memory of
Canisivu (d. 1597), a famous Jesuit.
The H6tbl db Villb, near the church of St. Nicholas, occupies
the site of the palace of the dukes of Zahringen. Adjacent is the
Council Hall, with a clock-tower. In front of these buildings stands
a venerable lime-tree, 14' in circumference, supported by stone pillars.
According to tradition, this tree was originally a twig, borne by a
young native of Freiburg when he arrived in the town, breathless and
exhausted from loss of blood, to announce to his fellow-citizens the victory
of Morat (1476). ^Victory' was the only word he could utter, and having
thus fulfilled his mission, he expired.
In the vicinity is a bronze Statue of Father Qrlgoire Oirard
(d. 1850).
Near the Morat Gate is the old Jesuits' Collegb, founded in 1584,
now a boys' school. — The Lycie, to the right of the Hot. Monney,
contains the valuable Cantonal Museum.
Baedkreb, Switzerland. 12th Edition. 13
194 Route 61, ROMONT. From Bern
Two rooms on the ground-floor contain the ^Haxceli.0 Museum, be-
queathed to the town by the sculptress Duchess Adela Colonna (d. 1879),
a native of Freiburg, who assumed the name of MarceUo: Busts and
statues (^Pythia) by Marcello \ pictures by her, and by Velasquee, Begnault,
Hubert, Delacroix, Fortuny, Coarbet, etc.; tapestry, furniture, etc.; also
the C€Uitonal Picture Gallery of ancient and modem works. — On the
first floor (five roomis) is a valuable collection of antiquities from lake-
dwellings, Roman and Swiss relics, ethnographical objects, weapons and
armour, coins, etc. — The second floor (two rooms) contains zoological
and physical, the third floor mineraloglcal and botanical collections.
The great *Susfbn8Z0N B&idgb, or Pont Suspendu, constructed
by Chaley In 1834, is 270 yds. long, and 168' above the Sarine. It
Is supported by six wire-ropes, 410 yds. in length, which form a
single inverted arch, the extremities being secured by 128 anchors
attached to blocks of stone far below the surface of the earth. On the
side next the town the chains pass through the walls of several
houses. — A little farther up is the Pont db Gottb&on (249 yds.
long, 305' high), a similar bridge , constructed in 1840 over the
ValUe de Ootteron, a deep ravine descending to the Sarine. On
the right side the chains of this bridge are secured in the sandstone
rock itself.
Fbok Fbbibubo to Tvbbdon, 31 Vz '^•t railway in 21/2 hrs. (4 fr. 5 c.
or 3 fr.). l^ear (3V2 M.) Bet/aux is a huge embankment, forming an aque-
duct for the Sornazy 150 yds. in length. Stat. OroUey ^ Lichelles, Coxissety
Coreelles, and (14V2 M.) Payerne(Tp. 196), the junction of the *Ligne de Broye\
We cross the Broye and the Olane, I6V2 M. Cuffy ; 20 H. Eatavayer (Maiton
de Ville; Cer/), a considerable little town, with the picturesque chateau
of Chilnaux, on the Lake of Keuchatel. (Steamer twice daily by Cor-
taillod and Auvermier to Seuchdtel, p. 186.) — 23Vt M. Cheyret; 26 M.
Yvonand^ on a tongue of land projecting far into the lake, at the mouth
of the ifentue, where Roman relics have been found. S1V2 V> ytferdon
(p. 191).
To the S.E. of Freiburg (15 H.; road by RechthcUden and Plaffeyen ; dil-
igence in summer daily in 4 hrs.), in the valley of the Semee^ is the Behwarae
See {Lae Ifoir^ 3365'), amidst lofty mountains, and well stocked with fish.
On its bank lies the ^Behwortsee-Bad. or Bairn Domhte (R. 1-3, board
4-6fr. ner day), with sulphur-springs. The KaiierepgseMou (7168'), to the
S.E. (3V2 hrs., with guide), commands the Bernese and Valaisian Alps. —
From the Schwaree See to Bulle^ see p. 182; over the OantrUt Pass to
Thun, p. 182.
Ascent of the *Berra iBirrenberff, 6656') » 6 hrs. from Freiburg, in-
teresting. Road by Marly, a village prettily situated on the Girine (Aer-
gerenbaeh), and Le Mowret to (7^3 M.) MonUvrcu ; thence a bridle-path up
the Cousin-Berra (Kasenberg) to the (2^/2 hrs.) top. Extensive view of the
Jura, the lakes of Xeuchfttel, Morat, and Bienne, and the Alps. Descent
to Valiainte (p. 182) «/« ^r., to the Sekvarze See li/z hr.
As the train proceeds we enjoy a view of the Simmenthal and
Freiburg Mts. tothe left, the Mol^son being conspicuous. The Olane,
with its perpendicular banks, and a handsome bridge of four arches
which carries the road across it, are also seen to the left. 24 M.
Matron; 251/2^. Rose; 27 M. Neyru%; 28V2 M. CoUena; 30 M.
Ch^nens. Near (33 M.) ViUa%-'8t. Pierre the train enters the valley
of the Glane ; on the left are the fertile slopes of the Oibloux (3947^.
Near Romont, to the left, is the nunnery of La Fille Dieu.
36 M. Romont (2326'; pop. 1876; *Cerf; Couronne; *Croix
^anche)j a little town on the Glane, with ancient walls and watch-
to Lausanne, GHEXBRES. 61. BouU, 195
towers, is pictuiesquely situated on a Mil. The Caatle on tbe S.
side, founded by the Burgundian kings in the 10th cent., is now
occupied by the local authorities. The old Gothic Church contains
choir-stalls with grotesque carving. At the S. end of the hill rises
a massive round tower; the' adjoining grounds afford a pleasing view.
Fbok Bomont to Bulls (p. 226) 1211., branch-line in 40min. (Ifr. 65,
1 fr. 25 c). Stations VuUtementt SaleSt Vaulruz (p. 226).
39V2 ^* 8vo%rit%. A tunnel pierces the watershed between the
Glane and the Broye. 42 M. Vauderens. To the right lies the
valley of the Broye, with the Pay erne railway (p. 196) and the town
of jBi4« (p. 196). At (46 M.) Oron-U-Chdtel (2378') we pass through
a cutting in the castle-hlU to the station on the S. side; Oron-la-
Ville lies below, to the right (p. 196). The train now descends and
crosses the Mionna% and the Broye. 48 M. Stat. PaUxieux (see
p. 196). We again ascend slightly, traversing a smiling and partially
wooded tract, to (53^2 ^0 Chexbrea, the station for Yevey (see below).
The ^BignaX de Ohexbres (1919* ; *mL du Signal, with garden), 10 min.
from the station, affords a superb view. At our feet lies the greater part
of the Lake of Geneva ; to the left Vevey ; above it, from left to right, are
the saddle of the Col de Jaman, the tooth-like Dent de Jaman, the broad
back of the Bochers de Xaye, and the Tour d'Ai' and Tour de Morges;
farther back, the Grand-Mceveran and the Dent de Morcles. In the centre
of the backgroiind is the pyramid of Mont Catogne; on its left rises the
snowy cone of Mont Velan; to the right the Savoy Mts., with the Dent
d'Oche. — Travellers bound for Vevey may descend direct from the Signal
to the village of Chezbres.
Fbom Chexbbbs to Vev£t, 4 M. The diligence, corresponding with
every train, descends to Vevey in 45 min. (passengers may alight at the
station); ascent from Vevey to Chexbres IV2 hr., leaving Vevey about 2 hrs.
before the train is due at Chexbres. The road leads through (1 M.) the
large village of Chexbres (1903'; "Lion d'Or), with its old castle (whence
a path descends direct to Rivaz-St. Sotphorin, a station on the W. Railway,
p. 220), and then descends, in view of the beautiful lake and the Savoy
Mts., to the Lausanne and Vevey road and (3 M.) Vevey (p. 214).
Beyond the next tunnel (506 yds.) a **Vie-w of singular beauty ^
embracing the greater part of the Lake of Geneva and the surround-
ing mountains, is suddenly disclosed. In the direction of Vevey,
which is not itself visible, are the Pleiades, the Dent de Jaman,
the valley of the Rhone, and the Savoy Mts. ; in the foreground lie
numerous villages amidst vineyards. Beyond a tunnel (through
which the setting sun shines in summer) and stat. Grandvaux
(Cully) we observe the villages of Lutry, PuUy , and Ouchy on the
lake, and Lausanne on the hill above them. Beyond another tunnel
and a viaduct we reach (581/2 M.) La Conversion (Lutry), and cross
the valley of the Paudite (p. 214) by a viaduct of nine arches. After
another short tunnel our train reaches the Lausanne and Yevey line.
61 M. Lausanne, see p. 212.
13'
196
62. From Lausanne to Fayeme and Lyss.
63 M. Railway (Ligm de Broye) in 4V4-7Vi brs. ; fares 8 Cr. 10, 5fr. 90 c.
Jo PaUtieux (13 M.), see p. 195. We follow the pleasant val-
ley of the Broye. 15 M. PtiUzieuz-Kaltt (village and ruined castle
on the right); I7V2M. C^^<i7{e9M (V2M. to the N.£. is Oron-Xa-
Ville, p. 195)^ 20 M. Eeublens-Bue. The little town of Bne (2323';
Maiaon de Ville ; FUur de Ly8) lies on a hill to the right, commanded
by an old ch&tean. 23 M. Breasonaz.
241/2 M. Moudon (1690'; pop. 2420 ; B6t. du Pont ; Couronne ;
H6t. de VilW), with the eh&teanx otCarouge and Roehefort, an old
town, the Roman Minodunum , and long the capital of the Pays de
Vand. Handsome Gothic church. — Farther on we cross the Broye
twice. 27^2 M. Lucens j with an old chfttean; 30 M. Hennies;
32 M. Granges- Mamand.
37 M. Fayeme, Ger. Peterlingen (1480'; pop. 3599; •Otiw;
Croix Blanche') J an old town, the Roman Patemiacum (?), was
early In the middle ages a frequent residence of the kings of Bur-
gundy. In the 10th cent. Bertha , wife of Rudolph II. , erected a
church and Benedictine ahhey here, the former now a granary,
the latter a school. Her hones, with those of her husband and her
son Conrad, were discovered in 1817 below a tower of the old
church, and "Were burled In the Parish Church, where the queen's
saddle with a hole for hex distaff is shown. To this day the ex-
pression, *Ce n'est plus le temps oil Berthe fllait', is a regretful
allusion to the ^good old times'.
From Payeme to Freiburg and YverdoHy see p. 194.
The valley of the Broye becomes broad and marshy. 381/2 M.
CoretUea; 40 Y2 M. Dompierre; 42M. Domdidier.
431/2 M. Ayenohes (1519'; pop. 1783; * Couronne) y now a
small town, was the ancient capital of the Helvetii, the Rom.
Aventieum. Distinct remains of an Amphitheatre and other build-
ings, and of the old town- walls, testify to its former prosperity.
To the N.W. rises a solitary Corinthian column 39' high, the
remnant of a temple of Apollo, now called Le Cigognier, from the
stork's nest which has occupied it for centuries. The Museum,
near the amphitheatre, contains mosaics, inscriptions, and other
relics recently found here.
In his Childe Harold (lii. 66) Lord Byron alludes to the ^Gigognier': — ^
' By a lone wall a lonelier column rears
A grey and grief-worn aspect of old days/
For centuries a tradition was current that the tombstone of a daughter
of Julius Alpinus had been discovered at Avenches, the supposed inscription
on which Lord Byron describes as a most affecting composition (Ch. Har.
iii., 66, 67)^ but both monument and inscription are said to haye been
invented by a certain Paulus Ouilelmus, who lived in the 16th cent.
At (46 V2 M.") Faoug (Sonne ; H6t. Wicky) we approach the Lake
f Morat (1428'), the Vechi-See of the middle ages (comp. p. 193),
i the Roman Lacus Aventicensis, 5^2 ^1* long- It is separated
ORBE. 63, Route, 197
from the Lake of Nenchatel by the narrow JIfont VuUy towards the N.
and the Charmontel to the S., but connected with it by the Broye.
471/2 M. Morat, Oer. Murten (1522'; pop. 2364; Couronne or
Post; Croix; Aigle; Pens. Kauer, on the lake, moderate; Rail,
Restaur."), a thriving little town, lies on the lake named after it.
Its narrow arcaded streets are overshadowed by an old Castle^ which
in 1476, with a garrison of 1500 Bernese nnder Adrian v. Bubenberg,
resisted the artillery of Charles the Bold for ten days before the
battle of Morat. The Oymnasium contains a collection of Burgun-
di an weapons. *Lafe€BaiA« (Restaur.) at Mor^tellierf Y2M. to the N.
About 11/2 H. to the S. of Morat rises a marble Otelisk, erected in
1822 in memory of the Battle of Herat, which was fought on 22nd June,
1476. This was the bloodiest of those three disastrous contesta (Grandson,
Morat, and Nancy) , in which the puissant Duke of Burgundy succeasiyely
lost his treasure, his courage, and his life ('Gut, Muth, und Bluf^. The
Burgundians lost 15,060 men, with the whole Of their military stores.
The StBAMBOAT PBOM MoBAT TO Nbvchatsl (3 times daily in 2 brs.)
crosses the lake to MotUr and Prcus^ at the £. base of the vine-clad Moni
Vully (2267'); at Sugiez it passes under a wooden bridge and enters the
Broye. To the W. stretches the Jura, from the Weissenstein to the Chas-
seron. Xear La Sattge we enter the Lake of Neuch&Ul (p. 184), steering
first S.W. to Cudr^n, and afterwards N.W. to St. Blaise and Neuehdiel
(see p. 185). — Dilioencb from Morat to Nevtehdtel 3 times daily in 2-2i/3
hrs., via Anet^ Ger. Ins; to Freiburg twice daily in 2V4 hrs.
Near (50 Va M.) Qalmit%^ Fr. CharrMy, we leave the lake. To
the left is the Orosse Moosy an extensive marshy tract, partly re-
claimed of late. 52V2 M. Kerzers, Fr. Chihtres ; ti^/2 M. Frdschtls,
Fr. Fras$e ; 57 M. Kallnach.
591/2 M. Aarberg (1470'; pop. 1346; JCrone), an old town on
an island in the Aare. Adjoining the church is the old castle of the
counts of Aarberg, who sold their dominions to Bern in 1351.
Diligence to Bkbn daily in 3 hrs. via Frienuberg^ once a Cistercian
monastery, now a deaf-and-dumb asylum, Maikirch, and Orlschwaben.
Lastly, we cross the Aare to r63 M.) Lyes , on the Bienne-Bern
line (p, 11).
63. From Lausanne to Vallorbe and Pontarlier.
45 M. Railway in 2V2-3 hrs. (8 fr. 15, 5 fr. 85, 4 fr. 20 c). Express
from Geneva to Paris by this route (363 31.) in 15 hrs. 23 min.
To (9 M.) Coseonayy see p. 192. The train at first runs parallel
with the Yverdon line, diverges to the left at ViUarS'Lussery, and
leadsby Eci^pcrw to (15 M.) La Sarraa (1647'; ^aiaon de Ville')^ a
well-to-do village with an old ch&teau. Two short tunnels. Near
Omy we cross the Nozon,
18 M. Amex-Orbe (17910; ^U M. to the N. lies the picturesque
old town of Orbe (1460'; 1884 inh. ; Deux Poissons ; Ecu de France),
on the Orbe, which is crossed here by two bridges. Early in the
middle ages Orbe was the capital of Little Burgundy, to which period
belong the two towers of the chateau (view from the terrace). —
Post-omnibus to stat. Chavomay(jp. 192) seven times daily in 1/2^^'
The line then leads in long windings, by Bofflens, to (22 M.)
198 Route 63. VALLORBE.
Croy-Bomainmotier, 1^2 M- from Bomainmotier (2296'; 380 inh. ;
Maison de Ville), a very ancient place, with the dilapidated ehnich
of an abbey which was founded in 753 and suppressed in 1536.
Fbom Bohainmotibs to Le Pont (9 H.)- The road leads by (4V2 M.)
Vaulion (3067'), from which the Dent de Vaulion (see below) is ascended
without difficulty in iVa hour. Descent to Le Pont (see below), 1 hr.
The train skirts wooded hills ; on the right lies the deep valley
of the Orhe, and high on its left bank are the villages of LignerolUs
and Ballaigues. (Ascent of Mont Suchetj 5236', from Lignerolles,
recommended.) Near Vallorbe we cross the Orbe above the influx
of the Jougnenaa.
29Vs H. VaUorbe (2520'; 2044 inh. ; *mui de Geneve, at the
station ; Maiaon de Ville, Croix Blanche, both moderate), a watch-
making place, at the base of the Mont d'Or (4818'), partly burned
down in 1883. To the S.W., 1/2 ^-i ^ the so-called Source of the
Orbe (2570'), which emerges from the rock in considerable volume.
To the Lac de Joux and Bent de Vaulion, an interesting excursion.
Travellers bound for the Lake of Geneva may then proceed next day by
Le Brassus and the Col de Harcheirnz to RoUe (see below and p. 211).
The new Railway fbox Vallobbs to Le Pont, GVz M., in 40 min., ascends
the W. slope of the Dent de Vaulion to the {2^2 M.) pass (3344') ; thence
to the top of the Dent a steep ascent of 11/4 br. through woods and pastures.
The railway then descends to —
6V2 M. L« Pont (^Truite), a hamlet at the N. end of the Lao de Jonz (3310';
5 M. long, 1V« M. broad), which is separated from the little Lac Brenet by
an embankment with a bridge. On the K. side of the Lac Brenet are a
number of apertures (entonnoirs) in the rocks, serving to drain the lake,
the waters of which, after a subterranean course of B M., give birth to
the Orbe (see p. 197), TSO' lower.
Le Pont lies on the S. slope of the *Sent de Vaulion (4875'), the W.
side of which presents a barren and rugged precipice, IGOCy high, while
the £. side is a gentle, grassy slope. The top is reached in ls/4 hr.
from Le Pont, or in IVz hr. from Vaulion (see above; guide desirable).
View of the Lac de Joux, the Lac des Rousses, the IToirmont, and the
Dole; to the S.E. part of the Lake of Geneva, and beyond it Mont
Blanc and the Alps of the Valais; lastly the Bernese Oberland.
On the E. bank of the Lac de Joux, 1 M. S. of Le Pont, lies L'Ahbaye
(Inn), with the church of an ancient Premonstratensian monastery. Ascent
of the "Mont Tendre (D612')} 2 hrs., interestiag. At the S. end of the lake,
6V2 M. from Le Pout (by boat in 1V2-2 hrs., with one rower S-4 fr.), lies
the hamlet of Le Sentier; and on the Orbe, 2 M. higher up, is the village
of Le Braasua (3412'; S6i. de la Ltxnde; H6t. de Fremce; diligence to and
from Le Pont twice daily in 2 hrs., by Le Lieu; one-horse carr. 10 fr.),
with iron works. Thence over the Col de Afarcheirux to (16V2 M.) Bclte,
see p. 211.
The train follows the pretty, wooded valley of the Jougnenaz to
(34^2 M.) Jougne (Lion d'Or), with the French douane. Beyond a
tunnel we pass Let Hopitaux Neufs and Les Hopitaux Vieux. 42 M.
Frambourg. Near the .Fort de Joux , before the defile of La Cliiae
(p. 190), we join the Neuchatel line.
45 M. Pontarlier, seep. 191.
I
i
i
199
64. Oeneya and Environs.
Arrival. Bailwat Station (PI. B, 4) on the right bank, at the upper end
of the Rue du Montblanc. Omnibus from the station to all the hotels (and
from the hotels to the station) 30 c.; each box 15 c. New Station for the
railway to Annemaase (Savoy) in the Boute de Chene. — Steamboat Pieks
on the S. (left) bank by the Jardin Anglais, and on the N. (right) bank
by the Quai da Montblanc, opposite the Brunswick Monnment (for the
express boats at 9 a. m. and 1.25 p. m.).
Hotels. On the Right Bank^ with view of the lake and the Alps : '''Hot.
DEs Bergues (PI. b ; D, 4), Quai des Bergues; *H6t. db Bussib (PI. c ; D, 3)
and *H6t. pb la Paix (PL e ; D, 3) on the Quai du Montblanc ; *H6t.
Beaubivaue (PI. d : D, 3) and *'Hot. d^Angletebbe, on the Quai des Paquis;
beyond these, on the Quai du L^man, *H3t. National (PI. B, 1), a large
house, finely situated (clfised in winter). — On the Left Bank: *H6t. Mfc-
tropole (PI. a; E, F, 3), by the Jardin Anglais; ^Hot. de TEcd (PI. f;
D, 4) ; both with view of the lake. All these hotels are of the first class,
with corresponding charges: B., L., & A. from 4-5, B. IV2, D. 5fr. — *H6t.
DE LA P08TE (PI. h; D, 5), frequented by Germans, B., L., & A. from Q'/a-j
D. 3 and 4 fr. ; ^Hot. du Lac ^1. i ; E, 4), B., L., & A. 3, D. 3 fr. ; •H6t.
DE Pabis (PL k; E, 4), with view of the lake, B. & A. 2V2-3fr.; *H6t.-Pens.
Flaegel, Bue Pierre-Fatio (PL F, 3); Hotel du Most Blanc, Balance
(PL o; D, 6), and Grand Aiqlb (PL p; E, 4), in the Bue du RhSne. — On
the^ right bank: Hot. Suisse (PL m; C, 4), B., L., & A. 3-4, D. SVsfr.;
*HdT. DE GBNdvB (PL n ; G, 4) ; both in the Bue du Montblanc, with simi-
lar charges; HdT. Bichemond, Place des Alpes (PI. G, 3); HdT.-PsNs. des
Arts, *HdT. db la Garb (PL s), Hot. db la Monnaie, and Hot. des Alfes,
all near the station.
Penaiona Alimentaires» very numerous owing to the great influx of
strangers : 120 to 300 fr. per month. Bovet (200 fr.), Bue G^n^ral Bufour ;
Picaud (120-200 fr.), Quai des Eaux-Vives ; Fischer^ Quai des Eaux-Vives 3
(6fr. per day; lake-baths near it); }£me. J. Bovet^ Quai des Eaux-Vives 2
(for ladies, 5-6 fr. per day); Mme. Fleiechmann. Bue de la Plaine 5; Mmes.
Livet et Grobet, Quai des Eaux-Vives 2; Zrabarthey near the university ; Fro-
mont et Jackson^ Bue du Montblanc and Bue Pradier 1; HilleVy Bue du
Rhone 53; Marhardt^ Boul. de Plainpalais 20; Pens, du Rhdne, Boul. de
Plainpalais 26; Mme. Richardet (6 fr. per day), Bue du Montblanc 8; Vve.
Picard (180 fr.). Place de la M^tropole 2 ; Bebsot, Place de la Synagogue 2 ;
Burand^ Chemin Dancet 3; Maret^ Petit-Florissant 12; H6i.-Pens. Beau-
Sijour^ in Champel-sur-Arve (p. 20(B), also for a single day; Pens, de la
Roseraie, same place ; Hot.-Pbns. Bellevue, Boute de Lyon 29, with garden,
5-7 fr. — For students chiefly : Berard (85-100 fr.) , Bue du Bhone 29.
Cafes. Kiosque des Bastions^ on the Promenade des Bastions (p. 204),
with music almost every afternoon and evening; Cafi du Nord^ de la
Couronne, and de Oenive^ all on the Grand Quai ; du Th4dtre^ in the Theatre ;
du Musie; Lyrique; in the Jardin Anglais \ du Jardin des Alpe*^ etc. —
Beer at the caf^s. Also Scholls, Bue du Bhdne 92 ; Landolf^ Bue du Bhone
and Bue du Gonseil G^n^ral; Brasserie de VOpira, near the theatre; Brass,
de Rive ; Brass, de VEspirance^ Boute de Garouge 42 ; Brass. St. Jean (fine
view) ; Grande Brasserie de Munich, Boulevard James Fazy 3, opposite the
Promenade St. Jean; Bonivard^ Bue des Alpes 6; Brass, de la Place des
Alpes^ in the German style; Brass. Bemoise^ Bue du Montblanc 11. Geneva
beer at the breweries outside the gates: Trtiber.^ Boute de Ghene, with a
pleasant shady terrace. — Bestaurants. Left Bank: Ca/4 du Nord., dear;
Caf4 du Lac, Bue du Bhone 78 ; Villard, Bue du Bhone 51 ; Gras^ 'en Tile';
also at the hotels. The tables d'hote at the hotels are on the whole better
and less expensive than dinners & la carte at the restaurants.
Baths. Bains de la Posts, Place de la Poste, well fitted up, hot, cold,
shower, and vapour baths; Bains des Alpes, Bue L^vrier 5; Bains de Chante-
poulet. Rue de Ghantepoulet, etc. — Lake Baths. Swimming and other baths
(PL 5; F, 1), by the Quai des Eaux-Vives (left bank); also by the pier on
the opposite bank (PL 10; D, 1) ; both open for ladies 8-10 o'clock. — *Bath9
200 Route 64. GENEVA. Pkyaicians.
IN THK Rhone by the Pont d« la CoiUouvreai&e (PI. b; C^ 6), well fitted
up; swimming-bath 30. plunge-bath 60, with towels 80-90 c. — Baths in
THE Abvb, very cold (m summer only about 50"), Chemin des Bains de
TArve, 20, >/< M- from the Place Keuve ; also at Ghampel-sur-Arve (p. 308).
Post and Teleffraph Ofaeea (with Poste Retteutte), Place de la Poste (PL
41 ; D, 6). Branch Offictt at the railway-station, in the Rue de THotel de
Yille 5, at Rue du Rhdne 67, and Route de Carouge 18.
Tramway from the station by the Pont du Montblane, Place du Molard,
Place l^euve, Rond Point de Plainpalais to Carouge (p. !lA)6), and from the
Place du Molard, and Cours de Rive to Ohiiu (p. 246) and Aunemaue (p.
245). Single trip 10 c; Carouge to Chdne 40c.
Gabs. Drive in the town, 1-2 pers. 1, 3-4 uers. IVafr.s box 50 c.;
for one hour within the octroi-limits, 1-2 pers. 2, 3-4 pers. 2V3 fr. ; to Petit-
Saconnex 8, Chambery, Cologny, Grand-Saconnejc 4, Vdsenaz, Bellevue 5,
Ferney, Genthod 6, Honnetier 15 fr. — Voitubiebs : Kdlliker, Aux Pa-
8uis; Regard, on the Terrassi^re; SocUti Oenevoue, Rue des Paquis 35.
ne-horse carr. about 15, two-horse 30 fr. per day, fees included.
Boats (with boatman 3 fr. for the first hour, and 1 fr. for each ad-
ditional Vzhr.), near the Jardin Anglais, the Quai du Montblane, and the
two piers (Jetdes). The English *canot$^ are steadier than the ^vomers' or
sailing-boats. The smaller boats used within the harbour are called ^nacel-
les.'' Rowers are prohibited from approaching the Pont des Bergues on ac-
count of the dangerous rapids.
Shops. The most attractive are those on the Orand-Quai, the Rue du
Rhone, the Rue de la Corraterie (left bank), the Quai des Bergues, and
the Rue du Montblane (right bank). (Geneva is noted for its watches and
jewellery. Among the watch-makers of repute may be mentioned Vacheron
d: Co.y Rue Tour de Tile 3; Oolay^ Leresche & Fils Quai des Bergues 31 :, Pi-
guet A Baehmann^ Ekegvin, Patek dt Co,^ all on the Orand-Qual; Lecoultre,
Rue Bonivard S'.Badollet tt do., near the post-office; H. Capt, and Rossel-
Bautte, Rue du Rhdne; Bu/our d: Co., Place du Molard 11. — Engraver,
AT. L. Bovy, chiefly for medals, Rue Chantepoulet. — Alpine boots : Miiller,
Place du Molard. — Trunks and other travelling requisites : Isenring^ Rue
du Rhdne, 33. — Musical boxes : F. Conchon, Place des Alpes 9 & Rue des
Paquis 2; Troll tt Baker, Rue Bonivard 6.
Booksdlers. Oeorg, Corraterie 10 ; Monroe, Grand Quai 32 ; Buckhardt,
Molard 2.
Theatre (p. 206). Performances daily in winter (adm. lVs-6 fr. ; seats
secured in advance, or ^en location^ at higher charges).
Orfaa Ooaoert in the Cathedral (p. 203) on Mon., Wed., and Sat., at
7. 30 p. m. ; tickets (Ifr.) obtainable from the concierge and at the hotels.
— Concerts in the Palaie Electoral every Sunday afternoon in winter ; also
fortnightly in the Theatre (see above).
Exhibition of Art, belonging to the SocUii des Amis det Beaux-Arts^
in the Athdn^e (p. 204), open daily 10-6, Sun. 11-4; adm. 1 fr. — Ex-
position Municipale des Beaux- Arts in Aug. and Sept. annually, in the
Batimeni Electoral (p. 206). — Panorama (PI. 7; D, 6), Boulevard de
Plainpalais, open daily (1 fr.; see p. 206). — Public Lectures ( Cours publics
et gratuits) in the University Hall, in winter daily at 8 p.m.
Fhyaioiana. Dr. Wilkinson^ Place du Lac 1; Dr. Williams^ Place M^-
tropole 2; Dr. L. Appia, Rue des Chanoines 5; Dr. Odier, Corraterie 8;
D'^Espine^ Rue Beauregard 6. — Ohemists. Oeo. Baker, Place des Bergues 3 ;
Hahn, Place Longemalle : Schmidt, Rue du Montblane, etc.
Hvdropathic Bstabliahment (physician Dr. Qlatz) at Champel-sur-Arve
(p. 206; tramway -station La Clnse) well fitted up. Lofty terrace, open to
the public, with fine view of the Arve and the town.
Snglian Ohnreh on the right bank, near the Hdtel des Bergues (PI. a).
Presbyterian Service (Free Church of Scotland), Rue du Rhone 60.
American Episcopal Ohureh, Rue des Voirons (PI. C, 2).
Geneva (1243'; pop. 68,320, exclusive of the suburbs), Fr.
"^^eruve, Ital. Ginevra, the capital of the smallest canton next to Zug
History, GENEVA. 64, Route. 201
(tot&l pop. 101,695), is tile largest and richest town in Switzerland.
It lies at the S. end of the lake, at the point where the blue waters of
the Bhone emerge from it with the swiftness of an arrow, and a little
above the confluence of the Rhone and the Arve (p. 207). The
Rhone diyides the town into two parts : on the left bank lies the
Old Town J the seat of government and centre of traffic; on the right
bank is the Quartier 8t, Qervaia, formerly a suburb only. The old
fortifications haying been removed since 1850, the town has extended
rapidly, and new streets are stiU springing up.
History. Geneva makes its appearance in the Ist cent. B. C. as Oe-
ncuva^ a town of the Allobroges (Cses. de Bell. Gall., i 6-8), whose terri-
tory became a Boman province. In 438 it became the capital of the Bnr-
gundian kingdom, with which it came into the possession of the Franks
in 533, was annexed to the new Burgundian kingdom at the end of the
9th cent., and fell to the German Empire in 1083. In 1034 Emp. Con-
rad II. caused himself to be crowned here as king of Burgundy. In the
course of the protracted conflicts for supremacy between the Bishops
of Geneva, the imperial Counts of Geneva, and the Counts (afterwards
Dukes) of Savoy, the citizens succeeded in obtaining various privileges.
In 1518 they entered into an alliance with Freiburg, and in 1526 with
Bern. Two parties were now formed in the town, the Confederates (*Eid-
genossen\ pronounced by the French 'Higuenos"*, whence the term *^w-
guenots'')^ and the Mamelukes, partisans of the House of Savoy.
In the midst of these discords dawned the Brforkation, which Geneva
zealously embraced. In 1536 the Bishop transferred his seat to Gex, and
the following year the theologian Jean Calvin (properly Caulvin or CAatiWJn),
who was bom at Noyon in Picardy in 1509, a refugee from Paris, sought
refuge at Geneva. He attached himself to Farel^ the chief promoter of
the new doctrines at Geneva, and soon obtained great influence in all affairs
of church and state. In 1^8 he was banished , but on his return three
years later he obtained almost sovereign power and succeeded in esta-
blishing a rigid ecclesiastical discipline. His rhetorical powers were of
the highest order, and the austerity which he so eloquently preached he
no less faithfully practised. In accordance with the spirit of the age,
however, his sway was tyrannical and intolerant. Castellio^ who rejected
the doctrine of predestination, was banished in 1540; and Michael 8ervetusy
a Spanish physician who had iled from Vienne in Dauphine in consequence
of having written a treatise against the doctrine of the Trinity (de Trinitatis
erroribut) , and was only a visitor at Geneva, was arrested in 1553 by
Calvin's order and condemned to the stake and executed by order of the
Great Council. In 1559 Calvin founded the Geneva Academy, which soon
became the leading Protestant school of theology, so that the hitherto
commercial city now acquired repute as a seat of learning also. Calvin
died on 27th May, 1664, out his doctrine has been firmly rooted in Geneva
ever since. — The attempts made by the Dukes of Savoy at the beginning
of the 17th cent, to recover possession of Geneva were abortive, Protestant
princes, who recognised the town as the bulwark of the Reformed church,
having contributed ocnsiderable sums towards its fortification.
In the 18th cent. Geneva was greatly weakened by dissensions, often
leading to bloodshed, between the privileged classes, consisting of the old
families (dtoyms)^ who enjoyed a monopoly both of power and of trade,
and the unprivileged and poorer classes (bovrgeois^ habitants, and sujets).
To these differences the writings of Jean Jacques Rousseau, the son of a
watchmaker, bom here in 1712, materially contributed. At the instigation
of Voltaire and the university of Paris, his ^Emile'' and ^Contrat SociaV
were burnt in 1763 by the hangman, by order of the magistrates, as being
^t^mdniires, soandaleux, impies et tendants h, d^truire la religion chr^tienne
et tons les gouvemements". — In 1798 Geneva became the capital of the
French Dipartemeni du Liman, and in 1814 it joined the Swiss Confede-
ration, of which it became the 22nd Canton.
202 RouU 6d, GENEVA. Quai du Mont Blanc,
The two halves of the city separated by the Rhone are con-
nected by eight bridges. The highest of these, the handsome *Font
dn Xontblane (PI. D, £, 3, 4), 280yds. long, leads from the Rue du
MontbUmCj a broad street descending from the railway-station, to the
Jardin Anglais (see p. 203), and with this garden forms the centre
of attraction to visitors In summer. Between the Pont du Mont-
blanc and the Pont des Bergues is SouMeau's Iflaiid (PI. D, 4),
united to the latter by a chain-bridge, and planted with trees (small
caff). In the centre rises the bronze statue of the 'wild self-tortur-
ing sophist', by Pradier (1834). At the third bridge, the Pont de la
Machine, the Rhone divides into two branches, the left of which is
conducted to the waterworks (p. 207), while the right forms the
canalized channel for the discharge from the lake.
Handsome quays with tempting shops flank the river near these
bridges, the principal being the Orand-Quai on the left bank, and
the Quai des Bergues on the right. Adjacent to the latter is the
iljud du Hontblano, extending from the Pont du Montblanc towards
the N.E., and affording a beautiful survey of the *Mont Blanc group,
which presents a majestic appearance on clear evenings.
An idea of the relative heights of the different peaks is better ob-
tained from this point than at Ghamonix. Thns Mont Blanc is 15,781' in
height, whilst the Aiguilles du Midi on the left are 12,608 only. Farther
to the left are the Grandes Jorasses and the Dent du G^ant ; in front of the
Hont Blanc group are the Aiguilles Rouges ; then, more in the foreground,
the Mole, an isolated pyramid rising from the plain; near it the snowy
summit of the Aiguille d'Argentifere \ then the broad Buet \ lastly the long
crest of the Voirons^ which terminate the panorama on the left, while
the opposite extremity is formed by the Sal^ve.
In the Place des Alpes rises the sumptuous Ho&nment Brans-
wick, erected to Duke Cfiarles IL of Brunswick (d. 1873), who
bequeathed his property (about 20 million fr.) to the town of Geneva.
The monument (in all o6 in height) is a modified and slightly enlarged
copy of that of Can Signorio della Seaila at Verona. It was designed by
Franel, and consists of a hexagonal structure in the form of a pyramid, in
three stories, composed of white and coloured marble., surmounted by an
equestrian statue of the duke in bronze, by Cain. The central stoiy is
in tbe form of a Gothic chapel with a sarcophagus, on which is a recum-
bent figure of the duke by Iguel ; and the reliefs on the sides (scenes from
the history of Brunswick) are by the same master. At the corners , under
projecting canopies borne by pillars, are marble statues of six celebrated
Guelphs; higher up are the Christian virtues, the Twelve Apostles, etc.
— The platform is embellished with mosaic pavement, flower-beds, and
fountains. On the right and left are two colossal Chimerse by Cain, The
pinnacled erection resembling a tower, on the W. side, affords a good
survey of the monument, with Mont Blanc in the background.
The continuation of the Quai du Montblanc is formed by the
Quai des Pdquis, planted with trees, on which is the new Kursaal
(PL C, 2; closed). Behind it is the American Church. This quay
extends to the Jetie, or pier, which affords another fine view of the
Alps and of the city. From the pier to the villas of Secheron extends
the handsome Quai du Liman. — In the Rue du Montblanc is the
Gothic English Church (PI. 11 ; C, 4), erected by Monod in 1853.
National Monument. GENEVA. 6^, Route. 203
On the S. (left) bank of the lake, to the left as weapproaeh from
the Pont du Montblanc, rises the National Monument (PI. 32; E,
3), a bronze group of Helyetia and Geneva by Dorer, commemorat-
ing the union of Geneva with the Confederation in 1814. — Farther
up the lake are the pleasant grounds of the Jardin Anglais, where
a band often plays in summer. To the left of the entrance is a
'barometer column', and in the centre of the garden are a pretty
fountain and a bronze bust of Al. Calame (p. 206) by Iguel. A
'kiosque' here contains an interesting *Relief of Mont Blanc (adm.
from 8 a.m. ; Sun. and Thurs. 1-3 gratis ; at other times ^2 ^^O? ^^
limewood, 26' in length, affording a good general idea of the re-
lative heights of the ^monarch of mountains' and his vassals.
On the lake, to the N. of the Jardin Anglais, extends the broad
Qvai des Eaux-ViveSj planted with trees. (To Cologny, see p. 207).
Near the Qual is the Salle de la Reformation^ containing a large
coBcert-hAll, the Musie des Missions, with articles brought home
by missionaries (adm. Yj fr.), and an interesting Relief Model of
Jerusalem by IlUs.
Ascending the Rue d'ltalie , to the right near the Hdtel M^tro-
pole, for a few paces, we reach the Promenade de St. Antoine , a
terrace planted with trees. On the right is the ColUge de St. An^-
toine, founded by Calvin in 1559; to the left(E.) is the Observa-
tory (PI. 37), and on a height farther off (S.E.) rises the Russian
Church (PI. 19), with its gilded domes , the interior of which is
worth seeing. Adjacent is a bronze bust of R, Toepffer (d. 1846),
the author, by Ch. Toepffer.
The Rue des Ohaudronniers leads S.W. from the Promenade to
the Place du Bourg de Four, in which to the right is the Palais
de Justice (PI. 40; F, 4), containing the Music Epigraphique, a
collection of Roman and mediseval inscriptions found &t Geneva.
— Leaving the upper end of the Place by the Rue de rH6tel de
Yille, we turn to the right to reach the —
Oathedzal (St. Pierre, PI. 12), completed in 1024 by Emp.
Conrad n. in the Romanesque style, altered in the 12th and 13th
cent., and disfigured in the 18th by the addition of a Corinthian por-
tico. The interior Is in the transition style of the 13th century.
The verger lives at the back of the church, Rue Farel 8 (*/2 fr.).
Iktbbioh. Oarved stalls of the 16th century. Monument of Duke Henri
de BofuM (leader of the Protestants tinder Louis XIII.), who fell at Bliein-
felden (p. 17) in 1638, of hlB wife Marff. de Sully ^ and his son Tancride ;
the black marble sarcophagus rests on two lions ; the statue of the duke,
in a sitting posture, has been restored in plaster, the original having been
destroyed in 1796. Beneath a black tombstone in the nave lies Jean de
Brognier (d. 1426), president of the Council of Constance. A black stone
in the S. aisle is to the memory of Agrippa d^Aubigni (d. 1630 at Geneva,
in exile), the confidant of Henry IV. of France, erected to him, in gratitude
for Ms serviees, by the RepubUc of Geneva. Under the pulpit is a chair
once used by Calvin. Adjoining is the beautiful Chapelle des Macchahies^
dating from the beginning of the IGth cent, (recently restored). Admirable
Organ (concerts, see p. 200).
204 BouU64. GKNEYA. Vniver9iiy,
We now return to tbe Rue de THotel de Yille, and turn to the
left to the —
H6tel-de-Vme (PI. 25; F, 5), a clumsy building in the Flor>
entine style , which is entered by an inclined plane, enabling the
councillors to ride, or be conveyed in litters, to or from the council-
chambers. — Opposite is the Arsenal (PI. 3 ; F, 5 ; Sun. and Thurs.,
1-4), containing the Musee Hiitoriqtie Qenevoia, a collection of old
weapons, the ladders used at the 'escalade' (see below), etc.
In the vicinity, Grand' Rue No. 40, is the house in which Roua-
seaUj the son of a watchmaker, was bom (1712, d. 1778 at £rm&*
nonville near Paris). His grandfather lived at that time at the back
of Rue Rousseau 27, on the right bank of the Rhone , which bears
an erroneous inscription that Rousseau was born there.
The MuB^e Fol (PI. 35; E, 5; Sun. and Thurs., 1-4), Grand'
Rue 11, founded by M. W. Fol, contains (in the court to the right)
a valuable collection of Greek, Roman, and Btruscan antiquities,
the yield of recent excavations, and medieval and Renaissance
curiosities.
The Rue de la Gittf , the lower prolongation of the Grand' Rue,
leads to the Rue des Allemands , where a tasteful Fountain Mofw^
mtnt (PI. 31) commemorates the last and nearly successful attempt
of the Savoyards to gain possession of the town. The day on which
the 'Escalade' was repulsed (early on 12th Dec. 1602) is still kept
with public rejoicings.
A gateway adjoining the H6tel-de-Yille (see above) leads to the
shady promenades of La Treillei which afford a fine view of the
Sal^ve. Adjacent to this terrace is the Botanic Garden (PI. 26 ; E,
F, 5), laid out in 1816 by the celebrated Aug. de CandoUe. The
hot-house is adorned with marble busts of famous Genevese, and
in front of it, on a bronze pedestal, rises a colossal bust of De
CandoUe. Close by is a bust of E, Boisaieu (d. 1885), the botanist.
The adjoining Promenade des Bastions is a favourite resort. (At
the entrance, adjoining the Place Neuve, is the Kioaque deaBanUonSy
p. 199.) In the grounds opposite are a statue of David by Chapon^
nUre and the ^PUrrt aux fi€8\ or 'aiix dameB\ with four figures,
said to be a Druidical stone. To the E. is the monument of Oosatj
the geologist.
The Athinie (PI. 4; F, G, 5), to the S.E. of the BoUnical
Garden, a Renaissance edifice, the facade of which is adorned with
busts of nine famous Genevese, was erected by the wife of the *phil-
hellenist' Eynard, and presented to the Soci^t^ des Amis des Beaux-
Arts. It contains lecture-rooms, a library of works on the history of
art , an exhibition of works of art (p. 200), and on the sunk-floor
the Musie Indu8triel (Thurs. and Sun., 1-2). In the latter are
preserved the machines used by L. Favre in boring the St. Gott-
hard tunnel. — Near it Is the Ecole de Chimie (PI. G, 6).
The University Buildings (PI. 2; F, 6), on the Bastion Prome-
MwSeRath. GENEVA. 64. Route. 205
nade, erected in 1867-71, consist of three different parts connected
by glass galleries. The central part contains the lecture-rooms and
laboratories, the E. wing the collection of antiquities, coins, and
medals and the Library, and the W. wing the Nat. Hist. Museum.
The Bibliothdque Publique, containing 100,000 vols', and 1600 MSS.,
founded by Bonivard, the prisoner of Chillon (p. 218) in 1551, is splendidly
fitted up. The first floor contains the reading-room (Sat. 9-4, on other week-
days 9-8o''cl.j closed in the afternoon during the university vacations). A
hall ('Salle Ami LuHin"*) on the ground-floor, to the right of the entrance,
contains valuable ancient and modem portraits of princes, reformers, and Ge>
nevese and French statesmen and scholars, chiefly of the time of the Refor-
mation CNecker; Lafontaine ■,' Descartes ^Winckelmann , by A. Kau/mann •, De
Saussnre ; Turquet de Mayerne, attributed to Rubens ; Ch. Bonnet, by Juehl ^
Sismondi; De Candolle, by /TornMni;'; Humbert ^ Euler ; D'Aubigne^ Farel-,
De Beza; Calvin; Diderot ^ Knox; Zwingli ^ Admiral Coligny-, Rabelais,
etc.). This room also contains a collection of SISS., including autographs
of Calvin and Rousseau. The most valuable MSS. are exhibited in glass
cases: homilies of St. Augustine on papyrus (6th cent.); house-keeping
accounts of Philip le Bel (1306); many with miniatures, some of them
captured from Charles the Bold at Grandson (p. 191). On an old reading-
desk, is a French Bible (printed at Geneva in 1588), richly bound in red
morocco, and bearing the arms of France and Navarre, which was destined
by the Council of Geneva as a gift to Henry IV., but never presented
owing to his abjuration of Protestantism. The concierge eipects a fee for
showing this room. On the ground-floor is the Cabinet of Coins; and on
the sunk-lloor is the Archaeological Museum, containing prehistoric and
other antiquities, chiefly of local interest (Thurs., 1-4).
The Natural History Museum, admirably arranged by' F. J. Pictet,
contains the famous collection Of conchylia of B. Delessert (formerly
Duke Hass^na), which has been described by Lamarck; Pictefs collection
of fossils; De Saussure''s geological colle(5tion, described in his 'Voyages
dans les Alpes*; Melly's collection of about 35,000 coleoptera; a complete
eoUection of the fauna of the environs of Geneva ; valuable rock-crystals
from the Tiefcngletscher (p. Ill), presented by M. Revilliod, etc. — Ad-
mission to the Museum on week-days (except Tues. and Sat.), 1-4, and
Sun., 11-1, gratis ; at other times apply to the concierge (fee).
To the N.W., in the Place Neuve, is an equestrian statue of
Oen. DufouT (d. 1875), in bronze from a model by Lanz. On the
W. side of the Place rises the new ^Theatre (PI. 44 ; E, 6), design-
ed by Qo8s , and erected in 1872 - 79 , a handsome Renaissance
building, with a facade enriched with columns and figures. The in-
terior (with 1300 seats), richly embellished with sculptures and
mural paintings, deserves a visit (adm. on week-days 1-4).
The "Viisde Eath (PL 36), opposite the theatre, containing a
collection of pictures, casts, etc., was founded by the Russian general
Rath, a native of Geneva, and presented to the city by his sisters.
It has since been much extended. Admission in summer, Mon.,Wed.,
Thurs., andFrid. 1-4, and Sun. 11-4, gratis; at other times, 1/2 ^"^^
(catalogue V2 ^r*)-
VBaTZBULB. In the centre, Borgheae vase; on the right, bast of Mo->
li6re, by Hottdan; Ch. Bonnet by Jaquet} Sismondi by Pradier; on the left,
bronze bust of.Duke Charles II. of Brunswick (p. 202). Left (Salle Pkadiek):
Models and busts by Pradier; busts in bronze (Pradier, Sismondi, Humbert,
Jacquet); busts in marble (Bellot, Rousseau, Bonnet). Odier, Charles the
Bold in the church at Kesle. Relief by Chaponnitre. Right (Salle Cha-
PONNifiBB): Principal door of the baptistery at Florence by Ghiherti; an-
tique torso; Venus. Jmho/^ Eve. Chaponniire: Greek captive, David,
206 Route 64, QENBYA. Panorama,
Bust of V. V. Bonatetten. — The paintings are arranged in three rooms;
to the left, the Salle Liotard, with an adjoining cahinet, in the centre
the Salle Calame, and to the right, tlie Salle Dioat. As the arrange-
ment of the pictures is frequently changed the more interesting are here
mentioned in the alphabetical order of the artists^ names. — 1. Ageiut^
At the smithy ; 4. Agasse & TSpffer^ Horse-fair ; 238. Bocion, Lake of Ge-
neva; 235. Louise Breslau, The friends; 236. Btirnand^ Farm-yard; Alex-
andre Calame (of Vevay, 1810-64), *21. Thunder-storm on the Handegg;
22-25. The Seasons; 28. Ccutres, Counting the prisoners (1871); Coroty 33.
The Repose, 34. Ville d'Avray, 35. S. Trinity dei Monti at Rome, 37. Mont-
martre; 38. Coypel^ Bacchus and Venus; Francois Diday (of Geneva,
1802-77), *44. Oaks in a storm, 45. Pissevache, 46. Giessbach; D''InvemoUy
Sea-piece; 50. Durandj After the review; *61. Duval^ On the upper Nile;
59. Furetj Heron; 238. Gaud, Cider-Press; 239. Qirardet, Arab at prayer;
64. Oiron, Educationof Bacchus; 66. Oraf-Reinhart, Interior of the cathedral
at Monreale; 67. Oreuxe, Child s head (a study); 68. Oro9claude<, The vol-
unteer; 72. Ouigon, The Rhone at Geneva; 75. Hihert^ After the escal-
ade (p. 204); Hornung^ *78. Catherine de' Medici before the head of Ad-
miral Colignv, 79. A captive; *85. Humbert, The ford; 90. Jeanmaire
Pine-forest; 91. KoUer, Cattle; 98. Lairetse, Bacchanalian; 94, 96. Largil-
litre, Portraits; 99. Leleux, Interval of rest in the studio; Liotard, 101,
106. Portraits of himself; *107. Madonna d*Epinay, 108. Maria Theresa;
Lugardon, 116. The Eiger, 112. Arnold von Melchthal; 129. Muyden^ Piffe-
rari; F. Pourbus, 139. Portrait, 140. Maria de' Medici; *143. Bavel, Draw-
ing-lesson ; 143. Rohellazy Between two fires ; 145. Rigaud, Elizabeth Char-
lotte, duchess of Orleans; Leopold Robert, (of Chauxdefonds, 1794-1835),
149, 150. Italian and Bernese girls, 151. Sacristy of S. Giovanni in Late-
rano at Rome; 169. Simony The poacher; 170. Snyderty Dog fighting with
a heron ; 179. Thuilier^ Lake of Annecy ; 168. Tifpffer, Leaving church in
winter; VelazqueZy 185, 186. Philip IV. of Spain, and his consort Maria
Anna of Austria; Jos. Vemety Sea-piece; 192. Vuillermety Portrait; 196.
Ziegler, Marriage on board ship.
On the S.W. side of the Place Neuve is the Conservatoire de
Musique (PI. 9 ; £, 6), erected in 1858 ; behind it is the handsome
Eglise du SacrS-Coeur (PI. 21 ; E, 6). To the S. of this, between
the Rue du Consell-G^n^ral and the Boulevard de Plainpalals, is
the Bdtiment EUciorai (PI. 39 ; E, 6), bearing the motto of Geneva,
'•post tenebras lux^ ; it contains a large hall, used for exhibitions and
concerts. — On the Boulevard de Plainpalais (PI. D, 6) Is an
interesting Panorama (adm. 1 fr.), by Ed. Cashes of Geneva,
representing the French army entering Switzerland in 1871. —
Beyond the Plaine de Plainpalals (drill-ground) on the Arve are
situated the Barracks and the well-equipped Ecole de Medecine,
In the neighbourhood, Ghemln Dancet 2, Is the interesting Jardin
Alpin d'Acclimatation, with a rich collection of European and
Asiatic Alpine plants (for sale), open daily except Sun. (best time
8-10 a.m. and 5-8 p.m.). Annual subscription for members, 2 fr.
Director M. H. Correvon.
Tramways run from the Rond Point de Plainpalals (Pi. F, 6)
to Carouge (p. 208). To the left, on a terrace above Garouge, on
the right bank of the Arve, is the favourite hydropathic establish-
ment of Champel'8ur-Arve (p. 200). Higher up Is the *Tour de
Champel, a view-tower commanding a splendid survey of the town,
the lake, and the Alps.
Returning to the Place Neuve, we may now pass the Synagogue
Envirom. GENEVA. 64. Route. 207
(PI. 43 ; to the W.) and visit the Pont de la Coulouvrenihrej the lowest
of the bridges, where the Rhone-baths are situated (p. 199). Below
the bridge are the new Waterworks^ with large water-wheels driven
by the dammed~up water of the Rhone, which not only supply the
houses of Geneva but afford motive power equal to 4200 horses foi
the use of manufactories. On the left, beyond the bridge, is the
Promenade de St, Jean, with a bronze bust of James Fazy (d. 1878),
the Genevese statesman, by Rolland. We next pass the Ecole d*Hor-
logerie, with the Musie dea Arts Decoratifs (adm. daily, except.
Sat., 11-4, Sun. 9-12) containing an important collection of en-
gravings and the models of the Brunswick Monument (p. 202), the
Ecolt des Arts Industriels (PI. 10), and the simple and handsome
old -Catholic church of Notre-Dame (PI. 15), and soon reach the
railway-station.
On the Varemb^ road, 1 M. from the railway station, is the
*Mn86e Ariana, the property of M. Gust. Revilliod, finely situated.
It contains pictures (Madonna of Yallombrosa, by Raphael, etc.),
other works of art, ceramic and ethnographical collections, library,
etc. (Adm. in summer on Tues., Thurs., and Frid. 1-5, gratis ; fee
to attendant.)
Environs of Geneva. Both banks of the lake near Geneva are stndded
with villas (*campagnes'), with beautiful gardens, of which a few may be
mentioned here.
Right (W.) Bank. At Varemb^, McCulloch ('Chateau de Tlmperatrice',
of
Uont Blanc from the pavilion; admission usually on Tues. and Frid., 2-6,
by tickets, procured gratis at the hotels at Geneva). The road to it from
Geneva leads to the left by the station and passes under the line, this
being also the road to Ferney, which we follow past the Musde Ariana
(see above) as far as a (1 M.) garden - pavilion , where a finger-post in-
dicates the way to (1 M.) Pr^gny to the right. Adjacent is the Campagne
Favre, also commanding a fine view of Mont Blanc (always accessible).
Lbpt (E.) Bank. At Les Eaux- Vives is Favre de la Orange (a magnifi-
cent villa, containing the Parting of Venus and Adonis, an early work of
Ganova). At Cologny, on the lake (see below) is the Villa Diodati (villa
of Lord Byron).
Walks. One of the finest walks in the environs is on the Right Bctnk,
passing Petit and Grand Saoonnez, along the brow of the hill, command-
ing the lake and Mont Blanc, and down to Versoix (p. 210; back by rail
or steamer), — On the Left Bank: along the Quai des Eaux Vives,
planted with plane-trees, up the lake to (3 M.) Vesenaz (Inn with garden
by the lake, in LaBeloite); return to (8*|2 M.) Geneva by Oologny (Chalet
Suisse; Caf4 des Alpes), with a charming view of the lake, or farther
to the E. by Ohougny, with a fine survey of Mont Blanc.
The Bois de la B&tie , at the confluence of the Rhone and the Arve,
is reached from the Panorama (p. 206) in Vzbr. by descending to the Arve
Bridge (paasing on the left the slaughter-houses and the cattle-market),
and ascending through the wood to the top of the hill, which affords a
fine survey of the town and environs. (Two cabarets.) The gray water of
the Arve and the blue water of the Rhone flow side by side for several
hundred yards below their confluence (La Jonction) without mixing. —
A^'oining the Bois is the new Cemetery of St. Georges. We may now
return to the town by the new Arve Quay, passing the Ecole de M^decine,
the Barri^cks, and the Plaine de Plainpalais.
I
208 Route Sd. GENEVA. Environs.
Omnibuses (1/2 fr.) leave the Place Gomavin (near the station) every
hour for Famey (Truite; H^. de France), 4Va M. to the N. W. of Geneva.
The road leads by Saconnex (see p. 207). A hill near Petit Sacconnex
I afifords a charming view of Geneva, the lake, and Mont Blanc. We next
pass through Grand Haceonnex, and reach Femey, in French territory, a
place of which Voltaire may be regarded as the founder. He purchased
the land in 1759, attracted colonists, founded manufactories, and built
a ch&teau for himself, which, though much altered, still contains a few
rooms with reminiscences of the founder (adm. on week-days, 12-4). Fine
view from the garden-terrace.
A favourite excursion from Geneva is to the SalSve , a long hill of
limestone rock to the S. E. of the town. The N. end is called the Petit-
Salive (2969') adjoining which are the Orand-Salhve (4291'; and the Petit
t and Grand Piton (4606'). The finest point of view is the Grand-Sal^ve
(Auberge des Treize Arbres), whence we survey the Mont Blanc chain,
%fae Lake of Geneva, the Jura, the cantons of Geneva and Vaud, and
part of France.
The direct route to the Grand-Sale ve (3 hrs.) from Geneva is by (IVh M.)
4 ! Carouse (1260'^ Balance; Ecu de Savoie)^ a small town founded in 1780
•1 i by Victor Amadeus VII. of Savoy, who attracted a number of Genevese
il f artisans hither by the offer of special advantages. It has belonged to
1 1 Geneva since 1815. By the tramway terminus a finger-post indicates the
'• I road to Crevin to the left. Where the road divides we always keep to
? [ the left till we reach the railway-embankment, under which we pass \ we
|| j then ascend the Grande Gorge by a good path.
" The carriage-road (omnibus to Mornex from Grand Quai 28 , at 8.30,
i ' 11.30, and 6.30; fare I'/s, to Monnetier 2fr.) leads by Chine (p. 246) to
\ ' (7 M.) Hornex (^Bellevvcf Bdl, de Savoie; etc*), a charming village on
the S. slope of the Petit-Salfeve . and thence to (IV4M.) Monnetier (233t>'i
*IIdt.-Pens de la ReconnaUsonce ; *H6t,'Pens. TroUef). situated in the de-
pression between the Petit and Grand-Saleve. The ruined tower at the
I I end of the new road has been converted into a pension (Chateau de Mon-
: I 'netier). In the neighbourhood are the Balme* de I'^Ermitage, a number of
» , grottos offering pretty views of the Lake of Geneva. From this point the
I I PeiitBalh>e is ascended in Va^'*? ^^ Grand-SaUve in IV2 hr. — Walkers
f may descend a path with steps (^Pas de VEchelle ) from Monnetier to
(I/2 hr.) Veyriery whence Carouge (see above) is 2 M. distant.
The long range of the ^'Voirons, to the K.E. of Geneva (steam-tram-
way under construction), commanding a superb view of the Alps of Savoy,
the Jura Mts., etc., is another favourite point. Tramway in V4 hr* to An-
nenuuse; then railway (d. 238) in 35 min. to Bom 8t. Didier; thence a drive
. A I of 3 hrs., or a walk of 21/2 hrs. to the summit. In summer the hotel om-
I IP ' nibus conveys passengers from Bons St. Didier to the top on three af>
'I . ternoons weekly. On the E. slope, 100' below the summit, is the *H6tel
] ' de VErmitage (pens. 6-8 fr.), in the midst of pine-wood, visited as a health
m ^ resort \ and iQ min. below it is the unpretending H6t. du ChaUt. Charm-
>lki ing walks to the (10 min.) pavilion on the Caiva'-re^ or Grand 8'gnal^
the highest point (4777'); to the (20 min.) old monastery on the N.W.
,d slope; to the Crete d'Audot, an eminence i/s hr. to the S.W.; and to the
.5; (1 hr.) Pralaire (4613'), the 8. peak.
1 !^ ' Ascent of the *I>dle from (Jeneva by the Col de la Faucille^ 7V2 hrs.,
see p. 211.
65. From Geneva to Martigny by Lansanne and
Villeneuve. Lake of Oeneva (Northern Bank),
(li - . ,8* ^- -^^^^T^y *?- 4»/4-6_ hrs. (to Lausanne 1V2-2V4, to Vevey 2}!^-
\m
3y4 hrsOi fares 13 fr. 55, 9 fr. 50, 6 fr. 80 c. (to Lausanne 6 fr. 36, 4 fr. 50, 3 fr.
2()c.; to Vevey 8fr. 35, 5 fr. 90, 4fr. 20 c.). Return- tickets from (Geneva to
St. Maurice, and from Bouveret to Brieg (R. 78), are available for two
days, and may be used for the steamers, and vice vend.
LAKE OF GENEVA. ^5. Route. 209
BteambofttB along the Nobths&n Baitk far preferable to the railway : to
Merges (ifr., ifr. 70c.) in 2V<hrg.) to Ouchy (for Lausanne, 6fr., 2 fr.) in
3 hrs. i to Vevey (6 fr. 50, 2 fr. 70 c.) in Si/a-A hra. •, to Villeneuve (71/2 fr.,
3fr.) in 4V4-4Va hrs.; to Bouveret (7V2 fr., 3 fr.) in 4»/4-5 hours. Return-
tickets for three days at a fare and a half, available also for returning by
railway, but not unless specially asked for. The cabin-tickets are available
for the second class only ; if the holder desires to travel first class he may
obtain a supplementary ticket from the guard. Steamboat-stations on the
TS. bank (all with piers): Bellevue^ Versoix, Miei^ Coppet^ Ciligny^ Nyon,
Rolle, St. PrtXy Morget. 8t. Sulpiee, (htchy (Lausanne), Pully^ Lutry^ Cully ^
Bivaz'St. Saphorin, Oorgier (near the Grand Hdtel de Vevey), Vevey-Marehi^
Vevey-La-Tour, Clarens, Montreux-VemeXy Territet-Ghillon, Villeneuve. The
express steamers leaving Geneva (Quai du Hontblanc) at 9 a.m. and 1.25
p.m. touch at the following stations only : — l^yon, Thanon and Evian on
the 8. bank, Ouchy, Vevey, Clarens, Hontre^z, Territet, Villeneuve, and
Bouveret. — Several steamboats also ply daily between the N. and S. banks
(Nyon-lfemier, Nyon-Thonon). and between Evian and Geneva. — Good
restaurants on board (D. 2Vt-3 rr.).
The *Lake of Geneva (1230'), Fr. Lac Liman, Ger. Oenfer See,
the Lacus Lemanus of the Romans, is 45 M. in length, upwards of
8 M. broad between Merges and Amphion, and IY2 ^* between the
Pointe de Genthod and Bellerive; 250' deep near Chillon, 940'
near Meillerie, 1100' between Ouchy and Evian (deepest part), and
240' between Nyon and Geneva. The area is about 225 sq. M.,
heing 15 sq. M. more than that of the Lake of Constance. In shape
the lake resembles a half moon, with the horns turned towards the
S. and this form is most distinctly observed from the Signal de
Bougy (p. 211). The E. horn formerly- extended 9 M. farther to-
wards Bex , but the deposits of the Rhone have gradually filled up
this part of the lake, and are daily extending this alluvial tract.
The deep-blue Colqus of the Lake of Geneva differs from that of the
other Swiss lakes , which are all more or less of a greenish hue. This
blue tint was supposed by Sir Humphrey Davy (who lived some years at
Geneva, and died there in 1828) to be due to the presence of iodine,
but the cause of the p}ienomenon has never been actually ascertained.
The Birds which haunt the la&e are wild swans (Cycnus olor), the de-
scendants of tame birds introduced at Geneva in 1838, gulls (Laru» ridir
-hundue), sea-swallows (Sterna Mrundo), and numerous birds of passage,
such as ducks and divers. There are twenty-one different kinds of Fish,
the most esteemed of which are th& trout, the *Bitter\ the 'F^ra'* {Core-
gcnut; the ^Felchen^ of the Lake of Constance), and the perch.
The Vegetation of the banks partakes to some extent of a southern
character. Side by side grow the sweet and the wild chestnut-tree, the
magnolia, the trumpet-wood, the cedar of Lebanon, and trellised vines.
Figs and pomegranates are also of frequent occurrence, but only the former
reach maturity.
• ^ A phenomenon frequently observed on the Lake of Geneva, and some-
times on other lakes also, consists in the eo-called ^Ssichb8\ ot fluetua-
tiona in the level of the water, which within a few minutes rises or falls
several inches or even feet above or below its usual level. These seiches
are- caused by any sudden alteration in the atmospheric pressure and most
commonly occur after storms, being in fact analogous to the ground-swell
of the ocean. The teiches longitudinales, or those running from one end
of the lake to the other, usually take about 73 min. to travel from Ville-
neuve to Geneva, while the seiches transversales cross from the Swiss to
the Savoy side in 10 minutes. The highest longitudinal swell oa record
was observed at Geneva on 3rd Oct. 1841, measuring over 6 ft. in height,
while the transverse swell rarely exceeds 8 inches in height. (F. A. Forel.)
Baedekkb, Switzerland. 12th Edition. 14
210 BouU 65. VEBSOIX. From Oeneva
The Level of the lake is lowest ai the end of winter, and highest in
summer daring the melting of the snow on the Alps. The average dif-
ference hetween high and low water is about 5 ft., while the difference
between the highest (1817) and lowest (1830) recorded levels amounts to
nearly 9 ft. — The Tsupebaturb of the lake varies from 45" in winter
to 76" or even 86° in summer, while in the deeper parts it never rises
above 42-44**. The lake has never been known to freeze over entirely.
The Navigation is inconsiderable, but large barges of 3(X) tons'* burden
are occasionally seen. The graceful lateen-sail used here, and rarely seen
elsewhere except on the Mediterranean, has a very picturesque appearance.
The lake has for centuries been a favourite theme wiUi writers of all
countries — Byron, Voltaire, Rousseau, Al. Dumas, and many others.
On the N. side the deep-blue water is bounded by gently sloping hills,
richly clothed with vineyards and orchards, and enlivened with numerous
smiling villages. To the E. and 8. a noble background is formed by
the long chain of the mountains of Valais and Savoy , of which the
higher ground on the V. bank affords a good survey \ but Mont Blanc
itself is visible from the W. bank only, from Oeneva, Nyon, Bolle, and
particularly from Morges (p. 212).
Stbamboat Journey (piers by the Jardln Anglais and the Quai
du Montblanc; comp. p. 199). The banks of the lake are clothed
with rich vegetation and studded with charming villas. On the
left, Oenthod (p. 219), prettily situated, once the residence of the
famous naturalists Saussure, Gh. Bonnet, and Plctet de la Rive. '
Versoiz (Lion d^Or)^ a considerable village, once belonged to
France. Cholseul, the minister of Louis XV., being hostile to Ge-
neva, contemplated founding a rival city here, and the streets were
mapped out, but the design was afterwards abandoned.
Coppet (Croix Blanche; Ange; Hdt.-Pens. du Lac). The chateau
formerly belonged to Neeker, a native of Geneva , who became a
banker at Paris and minister of finance to Louis XYI. In 1790 he
retired to Coppet, where he died in 1804. His daughter, the cele-
brated Mme. de Stael (d. 1817), also resided at the chateau for
some years. Her writing-table, her portrait by David, and a bust
of Necker are shown to visitors.
From Coppet (carr. at the station) a road leads by Commugny and
ChavavneM de Bogis to (SVs M.) Divonne (1543'; excellently fitted up hy-
dropathic estab.), charmingly situated beyond the French frontier in the
Pay* de Qex (from Kyon 5 M., diligence in connection with the express
trains in 55 min. ; from Oeneva 12 M., carr. in IV2 hr., with one horse 15-18,
with two hordes 25 fr.). Ascent of the Ddle from Divonne, see below.
CiUgny is prettily situated on a hill a little way inland. Farther
on Is the Ch&teau de Crans.
Nyon (^Beaurivagej with garden on the lake; *Angej pens.
5-6 fr. ; Couronne) was the Colonia Julia EquestriSj or Noviodunum^
of the Romans. The ancient castle , with walls 10' thick, and five
towers, built in the 12th cent. , and now the property of the town,
was once occupied by Victor v. Bonstetten (d. 1832) , the author,
who was frequently visited here by eminent Swiss savants. The
terrace and the pleasant promenades of the upper part of the town
afford a beautiful view of the lake, the Jura, and the Alps, with
Mont Blanc. Several relics of the Roman period still exist here.
Ascent of the Ddi.B, very interesting. A high-road (diligence) leads
^m Kyon through the Jura by (1 hr.) Trilex^ (2 hrs.) 8U CergueSy and
toUartigny, ROLLE. 66. Route. 211
Ci hn.) Les Roui$eSy a small French frontier fort, to (1 hr.) Morez^ a little
town in the Freneh department of Jura. From Xyon on foot in 3 hrs.,
to St. Oerfues (3432'; Sdtel d« la Potte; ^Bdt.-Pens. Capt; Pension Delaigue;
^Obtervatoirey a hotel and pension on a height, 5 min. from the post-office,
between the old ch&teau of St. Cergues and the Noirmont, with the finest
view), a village and summer resort at the K.E. base of the Dole, two-
thirds of the way from the top. The road from Nyon to St. Cergues leads
by (3 M.) Trilexj at the foot of the hills. The traveller should drive (6 fr.)
as far as the beginning of the well-shaded old road, li/z M. beyond Tr^lez,
which follows the telegraph-wires, and ascends straight to St. Cergues
(3 M.). One-horse carr. to Tr^lex 4, to St. Cergues 12 fr. and fee. ]^m
St. Cergues (guide 6 fr., not indispensable) we ascend to the (1 hr.) Chalet
du Vouarne^ and through the depression (La Porte) between the Vouame
and the Ddle, to the (1 hr.) top of the *Sol« (5606'), tbe highest sum-
mit of the Swiss Jura. The view is picturesque and extensive, and Mont
Blanc is seen in all its majesty. — From Oingxru^ IV2 M. to the W. of
Tr^lex, a good road leads to the (6 M .) Chalets de la Divonne^ Vt hr. from
the top of the Dole. — Another leads by La Rippe^ 4 M. to the W. of
Kyon, and 1 H. from Divonne (see above), and (^4 M.) Venddme^ at the foot
of the hill, from which a pleasant forest-path ascends to the summit in 3 hrs.
— The best route for pedestrians from Geneva (7V2 hrs. to the summit
of the D51e) is by the Col de la Faueille^ a deep depression in the Jura
chain, to the N.W. of Geneva. We follow the carriage-road by Femey to
(8 hrs.) Oex (2120' ; H'^t. de la Poste \ Hdt. du Commerce), a small French
town, at the foot of the Jura ; thence we proceed to (1 V^ hr.) the Fontaine
NapoUon and the (»/4 hr.) Col de la Futteille (4355'; Inn). We keep to the
road (to Horez, see above) for IV* hr. more, finally diverging to the right
beyond the La Yasserode inn, whence we ascend to the summit in IV2 hr.
Diligence from Les Rousses (see above) and Le Brassus, to the Lac de
JouXf Le Lieu, and Le Pont, a pleasant route (comp. p. 198).
Farther on , among trees , is the chateau of Pranginsj formerly
occupied by Joseph Bonaparte. A great part of the estate of La Ber^
geriey or Chalet de PranginSy which once belonged to him, is now
the property of Prince J^r6me Napoleon. The old chateau itself
now contains a Moravian school for boys.
On a promontory lies Promenihoux, and on the opposite bank,
3M. distant, Yvoire (p. 231). The Jura Mts. gradually recede. The
most conspicuous peaks are the D6le (see ahove), and to the right of
it the Noir-Mont (5118'). The lake forms a bay between the mouth
of the Promenthouse and the Auhonne (p. 220) beyond Rolle , and
here attains its greatest width. The banks of this bay, called La
Cdte, yield one of the best Swiss white wines.
Itolle (*THe Noire, plain, with garden; Couronne), the birth-
place of the Russian general Ldharpe, tutor of Emp. Alexander I.,
and one of- the most zealous advocates for the separation of Canton
Yaud from Bern (1798). An«islet In the lake contains an Obeliik
to his memory.
On a vine-clad hill, 1 hr. K. of BoUe, above the village of Bougp,
is the ^Signal de Bougy (2910'), a famous point of view, which commands
the lake, the Savoy Mts., and Mont Blanc. The best way to it is from
Stat. Aubonne-Allaman (p. 220) by omnibus or on foot to (11/4 M.) Aubonne
(^Couronne), a very old and picturesque little town, with numerous gardens,
a beautiful avenue, and pleasant public grounds, and thence on foot to the
top in less than an hour. — About 5 M. to the W. of Aubonne, and
6V3M. to the N. of Rolle, is Oimal (239&; Union pens, from 6 fr.), with
beautiful wood-walks, a favourite summer resort of the Genevese.
A road (diligence to St. Georges daily) leads from Rolle to the K.W.
14*
212 Routt 67. LAUSANNE. From Geneva
by only, Burtigny^ and Longirod to (8 M.) 8t. Oeorgei (3067' ; Inn) and over
the (4 M.) Ool de Harcheiruz (4767' ; Inn) to (4V2 M.) Le Brattut (p. 196).
On the way from St. Georges to the col, we enjoy charming and varying
views of the Lake of Geneva and the Rhone Valley down to the Fort de
rEcluse, and between the col and Le Brasaus we overlook the Lac de Joux
and the Dent de Vanlion.
The bank of the lake between Rolle and Lausanne is somewhat
flat. On a promontory lies the village of St. Prex ; then, in a wide
bay, Morges (*H6t du Port; *H6t. du Montblane; Couronne), a
a busy little town (pop. 3952), with a harbour and an old chateau
now used as an arsenal. The medisval chateau of Vufflens, on a
height at some distance to the N., is said to have been erected
by Queen Bertha (p. 196). From Morges we obtain a fine view of
*Mont Blanc in clear weather through a valley on the S. bank. The
steamer next reaches —
Ouchy (1230'), formerly called Rive^ the port of Lausanne.
*H6t£l Beaurivage, with pleasant garden, baths, etc., B., L., & A. 5-7,
D. 5, omnibus to the Lausanne station IVs fr. \ *'HdT. d'Akoleterss, B.,
L., & A. 31/2, B. 1^41 !>• 4 fr. ^ Hot. dd Port, small ^ all on the lake.
Pens, du Chalet, Avenue Boseneck. — Lake Baih9, to the E. of the landing-
place, 80 c, including towels, etc. — Boat 60 c. per hour, or with boat-
man 172 fr.
The Bailwat Station of the Western line (p. 220) is V4 M. from
Ouchy, and Lausanne lies fully V^ ^- higher. Cable Bailwat (commonly
called Ficelle) from Ouchy to Lausanne in 9 min. (Station at Ouchy near
the steamboat quay ; station at Lausanne, called 'Gare du Flon\ under the
Grand-Pont; 42 trains daily; fare 50 or 25 c, returnticket 80 or 40 c. :
intermediate stations Jordils and St. Luee, the latter near the station of
the W. railway; see above; to the left the trains to Lanaanne 10 e., to
the right to Ouchy, 20 c). — Porterage of small articles to or from the
steamer 10 c, trunk 20 c., if over 100 lbs. 30c.
LaoBaime. — ^Hot. Gibbon (PI. a ; F, 4), opposite the post-office, B.,
L., & A. 4-6, B. IV2, lunch 3V2, D. 4 fr. ; in the garden behind the dining-
room the historian Gibbon wrote the concluding portion of his great work
in 1787; •Hot. Biche-Moht (PI. b; D, E, 6), with pleasant erounds, similar
charges : *Faucon (PI. c ; F, 3) , B., L., & A. 4, B. 11/2, D. 3-4 fr. ; *H6t. du
Grand Pont (Pl.d;E,4), near the bridge, B.,L.,£A. 3»/4, B. l*/*, D. 3V2fr.;
Hot. Bxausitb (PI. e; D, 4), B., B., & A. 3M2, D. 3, B. li|4 fr.i •HdT.-PBNs.
Victoria, Avenue de Bumine; *HdT. du i^ord (PI. f^ F, 3, 4), Bue St.
Pierre, with restaurant, B., L., & A. 3, B. lV4fr.; Hot. des Xessaqeries,
Place St. Francois 4 ; HdT. de la Poste , Pelit ChSne 4. — Pensions :
Mme. RitscTMrdiyniHs MereierS), Beausi^our, Chatelanat, Monnard, Pavarin,
'*BeUevuey Piguet-Bauty^ Campart^ and many others. — Bjsstaubants : *HOtel
du Nord^ HOtel du Grand Pont^ see above,; * Casino ThMtre (see below);
Deriaz, Place St. Laurent; Rail. Restaurant; Oambrinue (beer), Bue Haldi-
mand, near tiie Place de la Biponne; Bavaria, Bue St. Fierre. — Theatre
(PI. f ; open in winter only). Avenue di% Theatre (with caf^).
Omnibus from the station into the town Vzf'-) hoz yztr. — Cab to
the station 2fr. — Railway from Lausanne to the station and Ouchy. see
above. — Bookseller^ with lending library, etc., Benda, Bue Centrale 3.
Th. Roussy, Bue de Bourg. — Pianoe, music : E. B. Spiess, Gr. Chftne 5.
English Church, Avenue de Grancy. Beottieh Free Church, Bue Bu-
mine. Weeleyan Chvreh, Bue du Valentin, Place de la Biponne.
Lausanne (1689'; pop. 30,179), the Lausonium of the Romans,
now the capital of the Canton de Vaud, occupies a beautiful and
commanding situation on the terraced slopes of Mont Jorat, over-
shadowed by its cathedral on one side, and its castle on the other.
The interior of the town is less prepossessing. The streets are hilly
toMarUgny. LAUSANNE. 66. R<mte. 213
and irregular, and the houses in the older part are poor ; but the
new quarters contain a number of handsome houses. The two
quarters are connected by the handsome ^Chrand^Pont, erected in
1839-44, also named Ponir-Fichard after its builder. The nearly
level street, passing the castle and cathedral, constructed by him
skirts the town and leads under the castle to the N. by a tunnel,
50 paces long. Lausanne possesses many excellent schools.
The *Cathedral (PI. 6 ; Prot.), erected in 1235-75, and con-
secrated by Gregory X. in presence of Rudolph of Hapsburg , is a
simple but massive Gothic edifice. Since 1875 it has been under-
going restoration in accordance with plans by Viollet-le-Duc. The
terrace on which it stands is approached from the market-place
(Place de la Palud) by a flight of 160 steps. The sacristan (mar-
guUlier) lives to the left (N.) of the principal entrance, No. 5.
In 1536 a famous Disputation took place in this church, in which
Calvin, Farel, and Virei participated, and which resulted in the removal of the
episcopal see to Freibui^, the separation of Vaud from the Romish Church
and the overthrow of the supremacy of Savoy. The *Ints»iob (352' long,
ld(y wide) is remarkable for its symmetry of proportion. The vaulting
of the nave, 66' in height, is supported by 20 clustered columns of dif-
ferent designs. Above the graceful triforium runs another arcade, which
serves as a framework for the windows. The choir contains a semicircular
colonnade. In the arcades of the choir-ambulatory appears an ancient form
of pilaster, a relic of the Bux^undian-Bomanesque style. The beautiful
but sadly damaged rose-window and the sculptured portals also merit in-
spection. (The W. portal is in a ruinous condition; the S. portal was re-
stored in 1884.) Above the centre of the church rises a slender tower, erect-
ed in 1875. The finest Momum£Ntb are those of Duk€ Victor Amadeut VIII.
of Savoy (d. 1451), whom the Council of Bale elected pope under the title
of Felix V. ; fartilier on in the choir are monuments to Otto of Grand-
son (?) who fell in a judicial duel (hands on the cushion, a symbol of the
ban; statue accidentally deprived of its hands); Bishop OuUlaume de
Menthonex (d. 1406) *, the Russian Frincess Orloff (d. 1782) ; the Duchess
Caroline of Curland (d. 1783); Harriet Stratford-Canning (d. 1818), first wife
of Lord Stratford de Redcliffe, then ambassador in Switzerland (by Barto-
lini); Countess Wallmoden Gimbom (d. 1783), mother of the Baroness of
Stein, the wife of the celebrated Prussian minister. A tablet on the wall
of the If. transept near these monuments bears the inscription: ^A la mi-
moire du Major Davel, mort sur Vichafaud en 1723^ le 24 Avrily martyr des
droits et de la liberti du peuple Vaudois\ a tribute paid to his memory by
Gen. Laharpe (p. 211), who effected that for attempting which Davel was
beheaded as a traitor.
The Terr ace J formerly the churchyard, commands the town,
the lake, and the Alps of Savoy ; and the prospect is more extensive
from the top of the tower, 162' high. The view from the terrace of
the old episcopal Castle (PI. 7 ; now the Cantonal Council Hall),
higher up, is also very fine. This building, erected in the 13th cent.,
has been repeatedly altered.
The Cantonal Husenm (PI. 1; Wed. and Sat. 10-4, Sun.
11-2 o'clock), in the College near the cathedral, contains natural
history collections, a valuable collection of freshwater conchylia,
presented by M. de Charpentier (d. 1855), relics from Aventicum
(p. 196) and Yidy , the ancient Lausanne , and interesting Celtic
antiquities from lake-dwellings.
214 Bottle 65. VEVEY. From Geneva
The Kute Arlaud (PI. 9; San., 11-3, Wed. and Sat. 11-2; at
other times, 1 fr.), founded by an artist of that name in 1846, in
a building in the Riponne opposite the corn-hall (Orenette), con-
tains a few pictures by old masters and several good modern works :
Calamt, Lake of Brienz ; Diday, Rosenlaui ; Oleyre. Execution of
Major Davel (see above), and Battle on the Lake of Geneva.
On the Montbexiony a hill immediately to the W. of the town,
planted with fine avenues, and affording a charming view of the
lake, is situated the handsome new Tribunal FidSral, or supreme
court of appeal for the whole of Switzerland.
The admirably organised Blind iUyliim (Asile des AveugUs),
to the W. of the town (PI. A, 3), was founded by Mr. Haldimand
(d. 1862) , who amassed a fortune in England. — In the Champ de
VAir, to the N.E., rises the well-arranged HOpital Cantonal (260
beds). — At Cery^ 2 M. to the N., on the line to Echallens (see
below), is the handsome Lunatic Asylum » one of the largest and
best on the continent, containing a chapel, concert-room, etc.
The *'Bigiial (2126'), Vsl^'* fthove the town, is a famous point of view.
From the post-office to the castle Vi ^v- i then cross the tunnel-bridge and
follow the road to the left for about 100 paces ^ ascend to the right by a
paved path, and thence by a flight of steps on the left to the carriage-road ;
follow this to the right till the hut with the trigonometrical pyramid and
grounds are seen on the right. (This point may also be reached by a broad
path diverging from the road to the right.) The view embraces a great part
of the lake. Hont Blanc is not visible from this point, but is seen from
the Orandes Roches (i/t hr. from the town, to the right of the Tverdon road),
another charming point of view. — The best way back from the Signal is
through the wooded valley of the Flon, on the E. side of the hill, and
then by the Rue des Eaux to the point whence we started at the K. base
of the castle. This route is preferable for the ascent also in hot weather.
Cab from the town to the Signal, and thence to the station, 6fr.
Fbou Lausanne to Echallens, 8^/4 M., a local narrow-gauge railway
(56 min.). The lunatic asylum mentioned above is near (2 M.) Jouxtens-
Cery^ the second station, es/4 M. EehalUnt (2064' •, 1079 inhab. ; ^Balances)
is a thriving little town, with an old castle now used as a boys'* school.
The line is to be continued to Payerne (p. 196).
The slopes rising above the villages of Lutry^ CuUy, and 8t.
Saphorin are named La Vaux, and yield good wine. The vine-
yards are tended with the utmost care. Between Ouchy and Lutry,
on the hillside, is the lofty viaduct crossing the PaudHe (p. 196),
below which is the bridge of the S.W. Railway (p. 220). The
amphitheatre of mountains becomes grander as the steamboat ad-
vances: the Rochers deVerraux, Dent de Jaman, Rochers de Naye,
Tour d*Ai, Tour de Mayen , Dent de Morcles, and Dent du Midi ;
between these, to the S., Mont Oatogne, and in the background
the snowy pyramid of Mt. Velan.
Vevey, Ger. Vivis^ the Vibiscus of the Romans.
Steamboat Piers : (1) Corsier , to the W., near the Grand Hdtel de
Vevey; (2) VBVBy-Marchiy at the town itself; (3) Vevey-lO'Toury to theS.,
near the Grand Hdtel du Lac.
Sailway Station on the N. side of the town, on the left bank of the
Veveyse. For excursions to the E. (Hontreux, etc.) the station of Za Tour
de Peilz (p. 216) is more convenient.
Hotels. ^HOtbl Momnet (de* TroU Couronnee) and *Gbano Hot. db
to Martigny. VEVEY. 66. BouU. 215
yBYET, at Cortier, to the W. of the town ; "H^sand Hdx. du Lac, to the
E. of Monnet^s; these three hotels, all on the lake, are large and com-
fortable: R., L., & A. from 5, D. 5 fr. ; pension from 15th Oct. to Ist May.
To the £. of the town, *'HdT. Moosbb (p. 216). — 'Hot. d'Akglbtskbe
(B., L., A A SVs) D. 3, pens, by*-! fr.) and 'Hot. du LftM an, also on the
lake; ^Tbois Rois, moderate, not far from the station, B. & A. 2i]2, B. 1,
D. 8 fr.; HdTBL du Post, at the station, wiUi garden; Hotel db la
PoBTB, Bue du Casino, for single gentlemen. — Pennons, see p. 216.
Oofes. Oinfd du Lac^ BeUevue, des Alpet; all on the quay; Ca/i du
l%idire\ Breuterie Trafflt. — Coindet, dealer in preserved meats, etc., Bue
des Deux Marches.
Lake Baths at the E. end of the town, beyond the Hdt. du Lac (6-8
and 2-5 for ladies only).
Post and Telegraph Offtoe * Place de TAncien Port. — Bankers : Oeo.
QlcUy Rue du Leman ; A, Cuinod Churchill, Place du March^ 21.
Omnibus from the station to the hotels 20, box 10 c. ; to La Tour-de-
Peilz 90, box 15 c. ; to Ghexbres from the post-office 1 fr. (see p. 195). —
Oab with one horse, per drive in the town IVsi with two horses 2fr. ;
V«hr. !•/« or 2 fr., 1 hr. 3 or 4fr., for every V«l»r. more 1 or IV^fr.
Bowing-boats at the quay and the Grande Place, 1 fr. per hr.; with
one rower 2, with two rowers 3 fr. ; to Ghillon 6 or 10 fr. ; to St. Gingolph
(p. 232) same charges ; to Meillerie (p. 282) 12 or 15 fr.
Bookseller. Benda^ Hotel Monnet (also music, etc.). Pianos at Ratten-
berger's (also at Montreux and Bex). — Theatre, Bue des Anciens Foss^.
Bnglish Ohnrch at the E. end of the town.
Vevey (1263'), charmingly situated at the influx of the Veveyse,
with 7820 inhab. , is the second town in the Canton de Vaud, and owes
much of its repute to the writings of Rousseau. The small terrace hy
the market (Grande Place), the quay, and the new, turreted Chdteau
ofM. Couvreu (beautiful garden with exotic plants, fee 1 fr.) overlook
a great part of the scene of the ^Nouvelle Hiloi8t\ the ^burning
pages' of which accurately describe it. To the E. La Tour de Peilz,
Glarens, Montreux, and Chillon are visible ; next. YiUeneuve and
the mouth of the Rhone; in the background the Alps of Yalais,
the Dent du Midi, Mont Yelan, and Mont Catogne (the ^Sugar-
loaf) ; on the S. bank of the lake, the rocks of Meillerie, overshad-
owed by the Dent d'Oche ; and to the left, at the foot of the Gram-
mont, St. Gingolph (p. 232). The Quai Sina affords a beautiful
walk, sheltered from the N. wind. Near the station is the ^Russian
Chapel with its gilded dome, nearly opposite which is the Ecolt
des Jeunes Filles, At the E. end of the town are the handsome Bom.
Caih. Church and the English Church.
The Ghubch op St. Mabtin, erected in 1498, on a vine-clad
hill (^Terrasse du Panorama^) outside the town, surrounded by lime
and chestnut- trees, commands a charming view (see the ^Indicateur
des Montagnes^y Service in summer only.
In this church repose the remains of the regicides Ludlow Cpoi^tatit
arbitrariae oppugnator aeerrimtu", as the marble tablet records) and Brough-
ton. The latter read the sentence to King Charles i^digntUus fuii senten-
tiam regis regum profari, quam ob causam expulsus patria sua* is the in-
scription on his monument). On the restoration of Charles II., that monarch
demanded the extradition of the refugees, a request with wliich the Swiss
government firmly refused to comply. Ludlow''s House, which stood at the
£. end of the town, has been removed to make way for an addition to the
H6tel du Lac. The original inscription chosen by himself, *Omne solum forti
patria\ was purchased and removed by one of his descendants.
216 Route 65, CLARENS. From Geneva
The chateau of *BaiiteTiUe , 2 M. to the K.E. of Vevey, with an
admirably kept park, commands a beautiful view from the terrace and
the temple. In the same direction, 2 M. higher, is the mediseyal chateau
of Blonaji which has belonged the family of that name for centuries. The
road from Hauteville to Blonay passes through the villages of St. Ligier
(Pens. B^guin; Pens, des Alpes) and La ChiSscu, many houses in whi<^
are adorned with clever sketches by A. B^uin, a native of the place, now
an artist in Paris. In returning , we may descend by a path to the right
beyond the bridge to the carriage-road below, which leads to (1 M.) Chailly
(p. 217), (1 M.) the bridge of Tavel, below the Chdteau det CrSlea (see below),
and (Vj M.) the Clarens station. — About 1 hr. to the N.E. of Blonay are
the Pleiades (4488'), a famous point of view (anbei^e near the top), at the
£. base of which, >/« hr. from ^the top, are the small sulphur-baths of
VAlliax (3428'; pens. 4-5 fr.).
The tower among the trees on the lake farther on, the Tour de
Peilz (Turria Peliana)y said to have been built by Peter of Savoy in
the 13th cent., was once the seat of a court of justice, and was
afterwards used as a prison. The neighbouring chateau of Af. Rigaud
contains a collection of ancient weapons.
From Vevey to Freiburg, see R. 61 i over the Jaman to Chateau d'Oex,
p. 228. — Pleasant excursion to St. Qingolph (p. 232; IVs br. by boat), on
foot to Novell in the valley of the Morge, and thence to the top of the
Blanchard (p. 232). Inns at St. Gingolph and Novel very poor; the trav-
eller should bring provisions from Vevey.
On the lake, 372 M. from Vevey, lies the beautiful village of
Clarens (^English Church Service in winter) , immortalised by
Rousseau. On a height to the W. rises the * Chdteau des Crites,
built by M. Dubochet (see below), with its pleasant grounds, and a
beautiful view from the terrace (visitors admitted). Adjoining it
is a chestnut copse, called Les Crttes, or the ^Bosquet de JuUe\
Rousseau's 'Bosquet', however, has long since disappeared, having
been, according to Lord Byron, uprooted by the monks of St. Bernard
to make way for their vineyards. Splendid view from above Clarens,
near the churchyard , and also from the terrace of the chateau of
Chdtelard (at Tavel, V4 ^^' ^ *^® N.), which gives its name to the
W. part of Montreux (p. 217). Between Clarens and Vernex is the
new Qerman Protestant Churchy with its slender tower.
Penaiima abound on this favourite S.E. bay of the Lake of Geneva.
The best-known are here mentioned in their order from Vevey. Charges
often raised in the busy season.
At Vevey: Hdt.-Pens. du CAdtea« (6-8 fr.), three houses E. of the Hdtel
M onnet , with a large shady garden and a view of the lake ; Pens, Wolff
(4-6 fr.), Bue des Promenades, recommended tu ladies; du Lac; du Pano-
rama ^ at the back of the town; Hdtel et Pens. Mooser^ at Chemenin, 10
min. above Vevey, charming view (6-10 fr.). At St. L^er: Pens. Biguin;
des Alpes. — At La Tour db PbiIiZ, near Vevey: Pens. Comte; des Alpes;
Riant-Site; Mon Disir.
Near Clarens , 'ad Basset' : *Pens. Ketterer^ sheltered. This is the
beginning of the region which, being sheltered from the 'Bise^ or bitter
N. wind, is often recommended to persons with delicate lungs as a winter
residence. The gay cluster of 22 villas near Clarens was built and fitted
up by M. Dubochet of Paris (d. 1877), at a cost of 2V2 million francs.
They now belong to Mde. Amaud, and are let furnished for 3 months or
upwards at rents varying from 4000 to 8,(XX) fr. per annum (apply to the
'r^isseur'). — At Clabbns: on the left, Beausite; on the right, *Pens.
Verte-Rive (5-7 fr.); on the left. Pens. Moser (5fr.); on the right, "HOtel
toMartiffny, MONTREUX. 65. Route, 217
Both^ witli » garden on the lake. At the station : ^ffdtel des Crete* (5-6 fr.) ;
*'IIdtel du Chdtelard (6 fr. ; good cuisine). ~ At Chaillt (1580'), 1 M. above
the Clarens station, and about SOCK above the lake, *'Peni. Mury^ with pleas-
ant garden. At Brent, IVa M. above Chailly, Pent. Dufour (small and quiet).
At Chamex, 1^12 H. above Clarens, Pen$, Dufour- Cochard (5 fr.; well spoken
oO* — Between Clarens and Vsbnex (all on the lake): '*H6tel Roy, with
pleasant garden; "Pent. Oermann; Clarentzia; Pent. Richelieu (6S fr.), oppo-
site the new Gtothic English Church (unflnished) ; *Lorius (three houses ;
6 fr. and upwards), with fine garden.
At Kontrenx-Yemez : On the left, ^Cyffne, R. A A. SVz, B. IV2, A. 3/4,
pens. 6-8 ft*.: *Pens. Pilivet; on the right, ^Afonney (5V2-8V2 fr.) ; *Beau-Sijour
au Lac (adjoining which is a bath-house); Bon-AccueH; all on the lake;
''Hdtel Suitse (5V2 fr.), on the opposite side of the road, with a garden on
the lake ; BeauUeu. At the station, Hdtet A Pens, de Montreux (iVa^V^ ^r.) ;
Hdt. Pent. Bellevue (4V2 fr); J5W'«2 Victoria; H6tel de la Gare; Pens.
Ramseyer; Pens. Bel- Air. By the steamboat-pier, Hdt.'Rettaur. Tonhalle.
— Preserved meats, etc., sold by Miautit. Beer at the Tonhalle and at
Margueft. — Bazaar Wanner, with a good and varied stock. — Strangers
Enquiry Office at the College (ground-floor, to the right). — /SfcAmfd/, chemist.
— Benda^s book-shop and library. Tuition of all kinds easily obtained.
In BoMrORT, on the Territet road (where the Kursaal is on the right,
see below ; adm. 1 fr. ; weekly subscription 3, monthly 10, quarterly 20fr.),
on the lake, farther to the 8.E. : on the left, *H6t. de Paris; *Hdtel Na-
tional, with a terrace high above the lake, 7-10 fr. On the right, *H6t.-Pent.
Seau-Rivaffe(8piekner), *H6t. P.Brever^ both with gardens on the lake; ViUa
Elitaheth ; *Pent. Bohpotf. The five last, Va ^* from the station, command
a fine view. — In the Village of Hontbeuz, 1/2^* from the lake and
the station: *Pent, Visinand; ^Mooter (6 fr.), Biensis, and • FawWer (7-8 fr.),
all with a fine view.
At Territet (to the E. of stat. Territet-Glion). *mui des Alpes, 90
rooms (from 2 fr.) and ^salons^ (6-10 fr.), D. 5fr., pens, from 7fr.; d^pen-
dance in the garden, with suites of apartments for families. *H&tel Mont-
Fleury, finely situated, with grounds (pens. 6-8 fr.). — HOtel du LaCy
small; * HOtel d^Angleterre; Pent. Mounoud; Pent. Villa Rosa.
At Veytanx. *Hdtel Bonivard, R., L., ft A. *Masson (4-5 fr.), adjoined
by a villa with furnished rooms; Pens. Boand; Villa Clos de Orand-
champ; Pens. Chillon, near the castle. — Between Chillon and Ville-
NEUVB, the handsome *n6tel Byron, (6-9 fr.), finely situated (omnibus from
the Villeneuve station, p. 220).
At OliOB (2254'; cable tramway, see below). *H6tel Righi-Vaudoit (pens.
8-12 fr.); *Hdtel Victoria (6V2-IO fr.), beautifuUy situated; *H6tel du Midi,
SOtel de Olion and others, about 5 fr., generally closed in winter.
Most of these pensions receive passing travellers at hotel-charges, but
in autumn they are generally full. At many other houses rooms with or
without board may also be obtained. The G&afx Cusb begins towards
the end of September and lasts about a month. — Aiqlx (p. 220) and Bex
(p. 221) are also pleasant resorts in early summer and in autumn. In
the height of summer, when the heat on the lake and in the valley of
the Rhone becomes overpowering, the pensions at Ch&teau d''Oex (p. 229),
Ormoni Dettut (p. 225), Villart (p. 221), etc., are much frequented. Similar
pensions at Oeneva, see p. 199.
Clarena, Chamtx, Vemex, OlUm, Colongea, Veytaux, and the
other villages which lie scatteTed about, partly on the lake and
partly on the hill-side, are collectively called Xontreux. This
district is divided into three parts, Chdtelard, Les Planches, and
Veyteaux, by the brook (Baie) of Montrenx and the Veraye. The
central point of the district Is the village of Montreux- Vemex, on
the lake, with a railway-station and steamboat-pier. About 74 ^•
from the S. end of it is the Kursaal, where a hand plays In the
afternoon (adm. see above) ; opposite is the new Reman Catholic
218 Route 65. CHILLON. From Geneva
Church, in the Romanesque style. Higher np, at the foot of the
mountain, lies the village of Montreux, with the quaint old Parish
Church (3/4 M. from the station of Yernex-Montreux and as far
from that of Territet), which commands a superb and far-famed
*View of the lake (mountain indicator).
ExcuKsioNS FBOM MoNTBSux. To GUoB (22540) loftily situated at the
back of Montreux , with a beautiful view of the' lake . a cable-tramway
ascends in 8 min., starting from the Territet-Olion station on the Western
Railway (21 trains daily ; fare 1, return-ticket iVa ir.). The line, con-
structed by Hr. Biggenbach on the same system as the Giessbach tram-
way, but much steeper, is about 750 yds. long, the maximum gradient
being 1 : IVi* At the top is the Buffet de la Station (view). Adjacent is the
garden of the Hotel Eighi-Vaudois (see above), which commands a delight-
ful survey of the upper end of the Lake of Geneva and the mountains
enclosing it, with the snow-clad Dent du Midi in the centre. The garden
of the Villa Nestle is worth seeing (visitors admitted). Pleasant way
back through the Gorge du Chaudron (see below) to the village of Mon-
treux in 1 hr. (enquire for beginning of path). From Glion the Mont
Caux (393T') may be ascended in iV4 hr. — To the '^Oorge du Chaudron,
a wooded ravine between Olio* and Sonzier, watered by a brook called the
JBaie de Montreux. From the bridge of Montreux to the gorge, and back,
1 hr., or returning by Glion 2Vs hours. The path enters the gorge from
near the Pens. Vautier at Lee Planehee. — From GhjUon by Champ Babau
to (1 hr.) Veytaux (see above). — "^Bocher do Nayo (6706'), the S. neigh-
bour of the Jaman ; ascent 4, descent 3 hrs. ; view embracing the Bernese
range, the Valais, and Savoy; Mont Blanc only partially visible. Easiest
ascent by Glion, Mont Caux, and Chamoeallee (auberge in the lower and in
the upper chalet); another track over the wooded ridge of Mont JSonehaud
(guide desirable). — Mont Cu&M (3940'), N.E. of Sonzier; to the summit and
back 4 hrs. — To Les Avant* (Hot. des Avants), road by Sonzier in 3 hrs.
(omnibus in 3V2 hrs., 4 fr., down 3 fr. ; carriage with one horse 12, with
two horses 22 fr.), see p. 22B. — By Charuex and ChavMn to the Bains
de VAlliaz and the Pleiades (4488'), returning by Blonay (p. 216), 8 hrs. —
By Aigle to the Ormonts, see B. 66. — To * Villart, see p. 221. — Ascent
of the Jaman, see p. 228. Mules may be hired. — To the JHssevache and
Gorge du Trient (p. 223) by railway, and back, in one day.
Stat. TerriUt'ChiUon (♦H6t. des Alpes, etc. ; see p. 2iT). The
*Ca8tle of GhiUon, with its massive walls and towers, ^/^ M. from
the pier (8/4 M. from stat. Territet- Glion ; V4M. from stat. Vey-
taux-OhiUon), stands on an isolated rock 22 yds. from the bank,
with which it is connected by a bridge, but the strait is now dry.
^Ghillon ! thy prison is a holy place.
And thy sad floor an altar, — for Hwas trod.
Until his very steps have left a trace,
Worn, as if the cold pavement were a sod,
By Bonivard! — may none those marks efface,
For they appeal f^om tyranny to God."*
The author of these beautiful lines has invested this spot with
much of the interest niiiich attaches to it, but it is an error to identify
Bonivard, the victim to the tyranny of the Duke of Savoy, and c<nifined by
him in these gloomy dungeons for six years, with Byron's ^Prisoner of
Chillon'' (composed by him in the Anchor Inn at Ouchy in 1817). The author
calls his poem a fable, and when he composed it he was not aware of the
history of Bonivard , or he would, as he himself states, have attempted to
dignify the subject by an endeavour to celebrate his courage and virtue.
Francis Bonivard was bom in 149&. He was the son of Louis Bonivard, Lord
of Lune, and at thd age of sixteen inherited from his uncle the rich priory
of St. Victor , close to the walls of Geneva. The Duke of Savoy having at-
^acked the republic of Geneva, Bonivard warmly .'espoused its cause, and
hereby incurred the relentless hostility of the Duke , who caused him to
to Martigny. YILLENEUYE. 66, BouU. 219
be seised and imprUoned in the castle of Oroide, where he remained two
years. On regaining his liberty he returned to his priory , but in 1528 he
was again in arms against those who had seized his ecclesiastical revenues.
The city of Geneva supplied him witii munitions of war, in return for which
Bonivard parted with his birthright, the revenues of which were applied by
the Oenevese to the support of the city hospital. He was afterwards em-
ployed in the service of the republic, but in 1580 when travelling between
Moudon and Lausanne fell into the power of his old enemy, the Duke of
Savoy, who confined him in the castle of Chillon. In 1536 he was liberated
by the Bernese and Oenevese forces under Kogelin, and returning to the
republic, he spent the rest of his life as a highly respected citizen. He died
in 1570 at the age of 74 years.
AboTe the entrance are the arms of the Canton de Yaud. The
rooms with their old wooden ceilings, the dungeons with their pillars
and arches, and the other reminiscences of the time of the dukes of
SaToy are interesting. A fine effect is produced by the beams of
the setting sun streaming through the narrow loopholes into these
sombre precincts. Among the thousands of names inscribed on the
pillars are those of Byron , Eugene Sue, George Sand, and Victor
Hugo. (Adm. 1 fr.)
It is an historical fact that in 830 Louis le D^onnaire incarcerated
the Abbot Wala of Gorvey, who had instigated his sons to rebellion, in
a castle from which only the sky, the Alps, and Lake Leman were visible
(Perts, Montun. U, p. 666); this could hare been no other than the
Castle of Chillon. Count Peter of Savoy improved and fortified the castle
in the 13th cent., and it now stands much as he left it. The strong
pillars in the vaults are in the early-Bomanesque style, and belonged to the
original edifice. The Counts of Savoy frequently resided in the castle,
and it was subsequently converted into a state-prison. Since 1798 it has
been used as a military arsenal.
Between Chillon and Yilleneuve, on the slope of the hill , is
the handsome H6Ul Byron (p. 217). The He de Paix, an islet 30
paces long and 20 wide, Va M. to the W. of Yilleneuve, and Vi M.
from the S. bank, commanding a fine view, was laid out and planted
with three elms by a lady a century ago^ and recalls Byron's lines : —
^And then there was a little isle,
Which in my very face did smile,
The only one in view.*
In the E. bay of the lake, 11/2 ^' ^'om Chillon, lies Viileneuye
(*H6t, du Port; *H6U de VUU), a small walled town, the PtnniUicuay
or Penneloei of the Romans. The 'Clos des Moines' is a good wine
grown here. (Railway-station, see p. 220.)
Footpath to Hontbovon (p. 228) over the Col de la Tintkrt (5341') in
4Va hrs., to Chftteau d'Oex (p. 229) in 6 hrs.
RaiiiWAT Jor&NET. OtMVQf soo p. 198. The train runs high
above the lake, overlooking the hills on the E. bank with their nu-
merous vi11a«, abore which rises the long ridge of the Yolrons and
in clear weather Mont Blanc. 2^2 M. Charnbisy ; 4 M. Genthod-
BellcDut; 51/2 M. Venoix (p. 210); 8V2 M. Coppet (p. 210), At
(11 M.) CSligny the D6le (p. 211) becomes yisible to the left. Be-
yond (I4V2 M.) Nyon (p. 210) the line skirts Prangins with its
chateau, and then quits the bank of the lake.
220 BouU 65. AIOLE. From Geneva
The tract of country between the Promenthoustf which the train
crosses near (17V2 M.) Olandy and the Aubonne (see below) is
called La C6te and is noted foi its wine. 20 M. Gilly-Bursinel ;
21 1/2 M. SoUe (p. 211). The height to the left is the Signal de
Bougy (2910'; p. 211), a splendid point of riew, easily reached
from Rolle or from the next stat. (25 M.) Aubonne^Allaman.
The train crosses the Aubonne and returns to the lake. 28 M.
SL Prex; the village lies on a promontory below, on the right.
From (301/2 M') Morgei (p. 212; station 8 min. from pier) Mont
Blanc is seen in all its majesty in clear weather, but soon disap-
pears. In the distance to the N.W., above the valley of the Morges^
which the train crosses here, is the chllteau of Vufflen$ (p. 212).
The line again leaves the lake, crosses the Venoge, and joins
the Neuch4tel railway (p. 192). 3572 R^nens.
38 M. LauMume (Rail, Restaurant), see p. 212.
The train (views on the right) skirts the lake the greater part of
the way to Yillenenve. We cross the Paudeze by a handsome bridge
(above which , to the left , is the lofty nine-arched viaduct of the
Freiburg line, p. 195), pass through a short tunnel, and skirt the
vine-clad slopes of La Vaux (p. 214). 42 M. Lutry.
From (44 M.) CuUy (p. 214) to (47 M.) Rivaz-St-Saphorin the
train runs close to the lake, then quits it, and crosses the Veveyse,
50 M. Vevey (p. 214); 5OV2 M. La Tour de PeUz (p. 216) ; 52 M.
Burier; then a tunnel, beyond which we obtain a fine view of Mont-
treux, Chillon, and the E. bay of the lake. 53 M. Clarens (p. 216).
54 m. Kontrenz - Vemez (p. 217), beyond which we again
approach the lake. 55 M. Temte<-&2tan (Caf^-Restauf, and small
bazaar), immediately above the steamboat - pier Territet- Chillon
(p. 21 o), and the starting-point of the cable-tramway to Olion
(p. 217). 551/2 M. Fey<tf«i-Cfc«ton(p.217; Caf^ Einholtz) is 1/4 M.
from the castle of Chillon.
57 M. Yillezienye, see p. 219. The train now enters the broad
and somewhat marshy i2ftone Valley, bounded by high mountains.
The Rhone flows into the lake 3 M. to the W., near Bouveret. Its
grey waters, the deposits of which have f<Mnned an extensive alluvial
tract, present a marked contrast to the crystalline azure of the same
river where it rushes through the bridges at Geneva.
The first station in the Rhone Valley is (59^2 M.) Roche.
Part of the mountain near Yvome (1561'), to the left, was pre-
cipitated on the village by an earthquake in 1584. Excellent wine is
grown in the gorge ('Grosex-Grilltf ' and ^Maison Blanche' or 'Clos
du Rocher'). To the right towers the jagged Dent du Midi (p. 233).
63 M. Aigle. — *Gbakd HStbl, on the hill IV4 H. above Aigle, with
extensive grounds, and suitable for a prolonged stay, R., L., ft A. 3Vs)
B. IV2, D. 4, pens. 6-10 fr. — *Pb»s. Bbai7-Sitb, at the station; *Viciokia,
opposite the ^post-office^ with d^pendance and garden, moderate; Hot. do
Midi and Hot. du Nord, both unpretending. — English Church Service
at the Grand Hotel.
to MarUgny, AIGLE. 65. BouU. 221
Aigle (1375'; pop. 3371), a small town with a large chateau,
is prettily situated on the turhulent Grande-Eau,
The Plantour (1604'; see below), a hill Va ^r. to the E., with a tower
(GGf high) of Roman origin and grounds, affords charming views of the
Rhone Valley.
ViLLAKS, 31/4 hrs. E. of Aigle, 2V2 hrs. above Ollon (see below), a very
favourite summer resort, lies on the hill-side, high above the right bank
of the Rhone. It is best reached from Aigle (carr. 15, with two horses
30 fr. and fee; a drive of 3 hrs.*, diligence daily in SVz-^ hrs.), as the
hotel and other accommodation at Ollon is poor. High-road to (2 M.)
Ollon (Hotel de Ville); thence a good road in numerous windings,
with fine views. Pedestrians follow the old road, which diverges to
the left from the new immediately above Ollon. After 2 min.,
where the path divides , we follow that to the extreme right. At
(40 min.) La Pousaz we take the path to the left, by the second
fountain, in the middle of the village ; 35 min. ffuemoz (BSOT; pron. Wems
by the natives), charmingly situated ; V2 ^'' Chesiire (SOTC; "Hotel du Cha-
mossaire, moderate), with beautiful view; Va l^r. Yillars (4186'; B6t.-
Pens. Breuer^ R. & A. 2, B. IV4, S. 21/2 fr.; a little farther on, *Orand
Muveran ; ^Bellevue, a little higher up ; pension in each 6-8 fr.). Magni-
ficent view of the Rhone valley, the Petit and Grand Moeveran, the Dent
de Morcles, the N. spurs of the Mont Blanc group with the (jlacier du
Trient, the Dent du Midi, etc. Pleasant park-like environs, affording a variety
of walks. The finest excursion is the ascent (21/2-3 hrs. ; guide unnecessary)
of the ^Ohamoisaire (6949'), which commands a most picturesque view
of the Bernese Alps, the Weisshom, the Diablerets, Grand Moeveran, Dent
de Morcles, Mont Blanc, Dent du Midi, Valley of the Rhone, and Sepey.
The route is by a cart-track nearly to Bretaye (1 hr. from the top), a
little below which we ascend by a path to the left to the stone signal on
the summit. — From Bretaye a tolerable path leads past Uie small lakes
det Chaletty Noir^ and "d«« C!%ava»n««, to (2 hrs.) La Fwclaz (4144'), and
crossing the Grande Eau, to O/s hr.), Le Sepey (p. 226). We may return to
Villars the same day by carriage, via Aigle; or the next day on foot by
Au Pont, Flamhuit^ and Chesih'e (see above). — From Villars to Ormont-
Dessus^ over the Col de la Croia (5174'), 4 hrs. ; guide (6 fr.) unnecessary, if
the traveller is shown the beginning of the route (comp. p. 226)> — From
Villars by Arveye to Oryon (p. 230), 1 hr.
From- Aigle a road leads by Tvome (p. 220) to (2 hrs.; one-horse
carr. 8, two-horse 15 fr.) Corbeyri«r (3236'; HOU-Pens, DubuU, 5 fr.), a village
in a sheltered situation, with &ae views. The Sianal (V4 hr.) overlooks the
Khone Valley from St. Maurice to the Lake of Geneva; more extensive
view, particularly of the Tour Salli^res and Dent du Midi, from the plateau
Aux Agittes (4997'; bridle-path, IVahr.). The ascent of the Tourde May en
(7621*), from Corbeyrier by the Alp Luan and At in 3^8 hrs., presents no
difficulty. The Tour d'At (7818') is fit for experts only.
From Aiglb to the Obmonts (p. 226), a pleasant excursion (one-horse
carr. to Sepey 10, to Ormont-Dessus 15 fr. and fee of 1 fr. ; diligence to
Sepey daily in 274 brs., to Ormont-Dessus in 5V2br8.; comp. p. !£j5). At-
tractive route for walkers from Aigle vi& Leysin (4150') to Sepey, 3V2 hrs.
(comp. p. 226; recommended for returning).
Between Aigle and (65 M.) OHon-St-Triphonj ou the left, rises
the Plantour with its tower (see ahOTe). The village of St, Triphon
lies on the S. slope of the hill, 1 M. from the railway; OUon is
1 M. higher up, to the N.E. (Road to Villars 2V2 ^rs> ^ee above.)
A finger-post Indicates the road from the station to the right to
Colonibey (p. 233) on the left bank of the Rhone.
68 M. Bez. — *OBA]n> HdTXL des Saunxb, with salt and other baths,
and a well-equipped hydropathic establishment, in a fine sheltered situa^
tion, IV2M. from the station, R., L., & A. 3V2-5, D. 4-5, pens. 6-12 fr.;
adjacent, *Hot.-Pen8. Villa des Bains; in the village, *Ukion, moderate ;
222 Boute 65, BEX. From Geneva
'^Orand Hotel oes Baims; '^HSt.-Peks. des Etbamgess, pens. 4Vr5 fr.;
Pens, du Gsoghet; Rail. Restaurant. — English Church, opposite the Gr.
Hot. des Bains.
Bex (1427' ; pop. 3958 ; pronounced Bay), charmingly situated,
on the Avan^on, and affording many beautiful walks, lies ^/4 M.
from the station (omnibus 50 c.).
Fine view from Le Montei, a Idll to the K. 0/2 hr.), from the Boii, and
from the Tour de Duin, a ruin on a wooded hill O'/i hr. to the 8.E.). — The
extensive salt-works of Divens and R4vieux, 3 M. to the N.E., reached by a
shady road of gradual ascent, may be visited in half a day (guide 5 fr.).
Visitors usually drive to Divens, see the salt-works, and then visit the
mines, where the salt is obtained from the saline, argillaceous slate by a
process of soaking. Salt is also obtained from the salt-springs by evapor-
ation. In the wood at the back of the salt-works are two huge erratic blocks.
A road leads to the E. of Bex, on the left bank of the Avan^on, to
(SVs M.) Freniires (2850'; Pens. Giroud) and (2 M.) Lea Plana (3612'; ''Pens,
de V Argentine, D. 2V2fr.; "Pens. Bernard; "Pens. Merletaz; 5-7 fr.; these two
unpretending; guides Philippe and Fvangois Marletaz). In the sequestered
ValUe des Plans, a good starting-point for excursions. Thus, to the Pont
de Nant (4110'; B«staurant), with view of the glaciers of the Dent de
3Iorcles, V2 hr.; to the Croix de Javernas (6910') 3 hrs.; to the Gla-
cier de Plan-Nevi 3 hrs.; ascent of the Argentine (79820 4 hrs.; *'Dent
de Morcles (9777'), with an imposing view of the Mont Blanc chain and
the Alps of Valais, 7 hrs. (descent to Morcles, p. 223, 3Vs hrs.) ; T^te a
Pierre-Grept (954»') 7 hrs. ; Grand- Mcever an (10,043'), by the Frite de Sailles
(3527'; a pass to the Rhone Valley between the Grand and the Petit Moe-
veran), 7 hrs.; to Anzeindat (p. 230) over the Col des Esseis (669O0 4 hrs.
From Bex to Gryon, and over the Pas de Cheville to Sionj see R. 6S.
To Chesih'es and Villars (by Divens, 3 hrs.), see p. 221.
The tiain crosses the Avan^on and the Rhone, joins the line on
the S. bank (p. 234), and passes through a curved tunnel.
71 M. St Kaurice (1377' ; pop. 1631 ; HoUl-Pens. Oriaogono,
near the station, in connection with the Rail. Restaur, ; Ecu du
Valais; H6U d*.a Alpea, well spoken of), a picturesque old town
with narrow streets, on a delta between the river and the cliffs,
the Roman Agaununiy is said to derive its name from St. Maurice,
the commander of the Theban legion, who is said to have suffered
martyrdom here with his companions in 302 (near the Chapelle de
Verolliaz, see below). The abbey, probably the most ancient on
this side of the Alps, supposed to have been founded at the end of
the 4th cent, by St. Theodore, is now occupied by Augustinian
monks, and contains some interesting old works of art (shown by
special permission only) : a vase of Saracenic workmanship, a cro-
zier in gold, a chalice of agate, Queen Bertha's chalice, and a rich
MS. of the Gospels, said to have been presented to the abbey by
Charlemagne. On the walls of the churchyard and on the tower of
the venerable abbey-church are Roman inscriptions. — To the W. of
the station, halfway up an apparently inaccessible precipice, is
perched the hermitage of Notre ' Dame -du- Sex (sax, i.e. rock), to
which a narrow path has been hewn in the rock. Farther to the N.,
above the mouth of the tunnel , halfway up the hill , is the Orotte
aux Fits , a stalactite cavern with a lake and a waterfall at the end
V4 hr. from the station, where tickets and guides are to be had).
to Martigny. VERNAYAZ. 65, BouU. 223
Travellers ascending the valley change carriages at 8t. Hanrice for
Hartigny and Brieg. Those descending change for Lausanne, but not for
Bouveret, where steamers (far preferable in fine weather) correspond
with the trains.
The Batha of Lavey (1377'-, ^'ffStel, D. SVa, 8. 2»/4, omnibus 8/4 fr.},
iVz M. above St. Maurice, are much frequented. The warm spring (100**
Fahr.), first discovered in 1831, impregnated with sulphur and common salt,
rises in a wooden pump-room , 5 min. from the hotel. — A narrow road
(one-horse earr. if fr.) ascends through wood in eigzags, to the E. of
the baths, to (272 hrs.) Mercies (3822' ; Pent. CAeseaux; guides Ch. Gutilat
and Jill. Cfieseaux), prettily situated at the foot of the Dent de Morcles.
Above it (10 min.) is Dailly (4149' 5 "Pens. Perrochon, 5 fr.), with a
charming view. Ascent of the Dent de Morelet (SHIT) from Hordes 5Vs hrs.
(see p. 216); bed of hay if required on the BaiU de Morcles (5740'),
IV2 hr. from Morcles.
Beyond St. Maurice, on the right, is the Chapelle de Veroille^
with rude frescos. Opposite, on the right bank, are the Baths of
Lavey (see above). The line approaches the Rhone, and passes
the spot where huge mud-streams from the Dent du Midi inund-
ated the valley in 1835, covering it with rocks and debris.
75 M. Evionnaz occupies the site of Epaununiy a town which
was destroyed by a similar mud-stream in 563. Before us rises the
broad snow-clad Mont Vtlan (p. 277). Near the hamlet of La Balmaz
railway and road skirt a projecting rock close to the Rhone. On the
right is the ^Pifwevaelie, a beautiful cascade of the Salanfe , which
rises among the gorges of the Dent du Midi (comp. p. 233), and
here falls into the Rhone Valley from a height of 230' (8/4 M. from
Vernayaz, the nearest station; best light in the forenoon). A path
ascends on the right side, and passes behind the waterfall (1 fr.).
77 M. Yernayas (1535' ; *Qr.'H6t. dea Gorges du Trient, V2 M.
from the station, finely situated at the entrance of the Gorge,
pens, from 7 fr. upwards. In the village; *H6t. des Alpes^ R.
IV2 fr. ; *H6t, Suisse; H6t. de Chamonix ; H6t. de la Poste), the
starting-point of the route to Chamonix via Salvan (p. 258), has a
staff of guides and horses (guide to Chatelard 6, Chamonix 12,
Cascade du Dalley 4 fr.).
On the right, beyond Vernayaz, we observe the bare rocks at
the mouth of the *6orge du Trienti which may be ascended for
^2 M. by means of a wooden gallery attached to the rocks above the
foaming stream. Tickets (1 fr.) at the Grand H6tel des Gorges du
Trient.
The view at the entrance to the gorge is imposing. The rocks, here about
42(K high , approach each other so closely at every turn , that the gorge
almost reaembles a huge vaulted cavern. Where the path citosses the
Trient for the second time, (he stream is said to be 40' deep; at the end
of the gaUeiy it forms a waterfall, SCK high. The gorge (inaccessible farther
up) is 7V2 M. long, extending to the Hotel de la TSte Xoire (p. 257), from
which its entrance is visible.
Near Martigny, at the right angle which the Rhone valley here
forms , on a hill to the right, stands La Batiai (1985^), a castle of
the bishops of Slon, erected in 1260, and dismantled in 1518. The
steep ascent to it from the Drance bridge takes ^4 ^^' (adm. 30 c).
224 B(mU65, HABTIGNT.
The hill on which the castle stands aifords a view of the broad lower
Rhone Valley as far as Sion, and some of the Bernese Alps, above
which the Sanetsch and part of the Gemmi are prominent; on the
S. side of the valley rises the Pierre-ii-yoir, resembling a tower;
below ns lie Martigny and Martigny-Bourg ; through the valley to
the S.W. runs the road to the Col de Forclaz, above which rise the
Aiguilles Rouges; to the N. the Drance, and beyond it the Trient
empty themselves into the Rhone. The train crosses the Drance
(p. 275).
8i M. Hartigiiy. — *HdTBL Clbbc, b., l., ft A. 4Vs, D. 5fr.j
'HdTBL DU MONTBLANC & DB LA TOUB, B., L., ft A. SVz-^VZi !>• 4 fr.^
HdTEL-BESTADB. DB LA Gabb. at the Station*, Aiole, unpretending, on
the left M the town is entered from the station, well spoken of. — The
Bailwat Station is Va M. from the town (omnibus Va^'*)*
Martigny- Ville (1558'; pop. 1525), the Roman Octodurus, is a
busy little town in summer, being the starting-point of the routes
over the Great St. Bernard to Aosta (R. 77), over the Tete-Noire and
Gol de Balme (RR. 73, 74) to Chamonix, and for the Yal de Bagnes
(R. 78). In the market-place, which is planted with trees , is a
bronze bust of Liberty by Courbet. A large Roman building has re-
cently been excavated at Martigny. — Above Martigny, on the road
to the Great St. Bernard, lies (1 M.) Martigny-Bourg (Trois Gouron-
nes, good 'Goquempey' wine), the vineyards of which yield excellent
wine (^Coquempey and Lamar que^ both known to the Romans).
ExcuBsiOKs. Near Branton^ on the right bank of the Bhone, 3 M. to
the N.E. of Martigny, is the rocky hill of L€$ FoUata'r€S, famed for its flora.
Ascent of the ' AipiUe (6880* « 4 hrs. , witii guide). The bridle-path
ascends heyond La Batiaz (p. 223) through vineyards to the hamlet of
Sommet det Vignet; then past the hamlets of Ravoir, through wood, and
steeply to the chalets of ArpUU (5964') and the summit. Superb view of
the Glacier du Trient, Mont Blanc, and the Alps of Bern and Valais.
Descent to the 8., through wood, in 1 hr. to the Col de la Fordaz (p. 25T^.
The *Tierre-i-Yoir(8i230, a limestone peak of the mountain-range which
separates the Bhone Valley from the Val de Drance, is ascended from Mar-
tigny, the Baths of Saxon (p. 283), Sembrancher (p. 275), or Ghable (p. 280).
From Martigny a bridle-path, 6 hrs. (guide 8, mule 10 fr.)* From the Col^
1/4 hr. below the summit, the descent to Saxon may be made rapidly, but
not very pleasantly on a sledge in 1-lVs hr., or on foot in 3 hours. Beauti-
ful view of the Valaisian Alps (from Mont Blanc to the Matterhom), the Ber-
nese Alps (from the Dent de Morcles to the Jungfrau), of the Bhone, Entre-
mont, and Bagne valleys, and the glacier of Oiitroz (p. 280).
*Oorg^» du Dumant (5-4 hrs. from Martigny, there and back), see p. 275.
Railway to Brieg, 48 M. from Martigny, see R. 79.
66. From Saanen to Aigle over the Col de Pillon.
80 M. The read over the Col de Pillon was completed in autumn
1886. From Saanen to Gsteig (8 M.) diligence daily in iVa hr. ; from Or-
mont-Dessus to (14 M.) Aigle in 4V2 hrs. (from Aigle to Ormont 5^/2 hrs.).
One-horse carr. from Saanen to Osteig 8 fr., to Ormont-Dessus 25, to Aigle
40 fr. (carr. and pair 65 fr.), and fee. ^ .
Saanen (33820, p. 182. The road leads S. through the broad and
miling Saane-Thal, called in its upper part the 08teig»Thalj to
ORMONT DESSUS. 66. Route. 225
EbnU and to 01^4^0 ^^^ (3455'; Bwr\ at the mouth of the Laui-
nenihal,
A road ascends on the right bank of the Lauibach^ crossing the Tur-
lach after V2 ^m to (4 M.) Lauenen (4130'^ Bar, rustic), the chief place
in the valley, beautifully situated. The picturesque Lauenen-See i^aStT).
1 hr. higher up, is best surveyed from the BUM, a hill on the E. side.
To the S. the brooks descending from the Oelten &ndDungel glaciers form
fine waterfalls on both sides of the JSahnenschritthorn (9304 ). — From Laue-
nen to Lenk over the TrUttlisberg, and to Gsteig by the Krinnen, see p. 179.
Over the Oelten Pass {Col du Brozet, 927(y) to Sion, to Zanfleuron (see
below) 8 hrs., with guide, toilsome. — The Wildhom Club-hut (p. 179) is
reached in 5 hrs. from Lauenen.
Gsteig, Fr. CMteJct (3937' ; *Bar, pens. 5-6 fr.), 61/4 M. from
Gstad, is finely situated. To the S. rise the 8anet3chhom (OBSOQ
and the Oldenhom (10,282').
To SioN ovEB THE Sanktsch, 8V2 hrs., attractive on the whole (ex-
perts may dispense with a guide in fine weather). The path crosses the
Sarine, and ascends steeply through pastures, and afterwards in windings
Jartly hewn in the rock, to the (2V2 hrs.) dreary Kreuzboden; thence
hr. to the pass of the Sanetsch (7287'), on this side of which there is
cross (La Grande Croix). Descent (passing the large Zanfleuron Glacier
(m the right) to the (Vs hr.) Alp Zanfleuron (6775' j Hot. Sanetsch, plain),
lyhence the Oldenhom (p. 226) may be ascended in 4 hrs., the Wild'
Wn (p. 179) in 4V2 hrs., the Sanetschhorn, or Montbrun (96650 in 5 hrs.,
kd the JHableret (p. 226) in 6 hrs. (ascent of the latter easiest from
ns side). The Sublage $973'), 2V2 hrs. from the hotel, affords a mag-
iBcent view of the valleys and mountains of the S. Valais as .far as Mont
lane. Then through the wild ravine of the Merge to (3 hrs.) Chan-
mn, and by Oranois and Ormona to (IV2 hr.) Sion (p. 283). Ascent from
pn to the pass 7, descent thence to Gsteig 3 hrs.
' The new road here turns to the S.W., and ascends the valley of
I Reuachbach through woods and pastures, in view of the preci-
les of the Oldenhom (p. 226) and the Sex Rouge (9767'), to
. IM.) the Col de Pillon (5086'), at the S. foot of the Palette (see
t'lpw). In descending (passing the Cascade du Dard, above us on
^left) we soon ohtain a Tiew of a valley bounded by fine wooded
iBntains, and thickly studded with houses and chalets known
lectively as Ormont-Dessus ; in the background rise the peaks of the
rr d^Ai and de Mayen. To the left is the rocky Creux de Champ,
base of the Diablerets , the numerous brooks falling from which
Ijn the Qrande-Eau, We first reach (3 M. from the Col) Le Plan
BIS'; *H6tel des Diablerets, with haths, pens. 7 fr., beside the
Bt-station for Ormont-Dessus ; *Hdt,-Pens. Bellevue, moderate;
pM, du Moulin , Pens. Chamois) , and in V2 ^r- more , past the
ittily-situated *H6tel Pillon, Vers TEglise (3650'; Pens. Mon
^Wi houTj Pens. Busset; Hotel de VOurs, all unpretending), with the
rch of the upper part of the valley.
ExcuBsroNs from Plan. (Guides : Mollien, V. Oottraut^ Fr. Bemet, Fr.
Moise Pichard.) To the Crenx de Champ (4275')) a grand rocky basin
he N. base of the Diablerets (see above), with waterfalls on every side,
hr. (to the foot of the largest fall). A good survey of the Creux de
amp, the Oldenhom, etc., is obtained from La Layaz (5340'), IVa hr. 8. of
n. — Ascent of the *Palette (7133'; guide 5, horse 12 fr.), easy as far as
i (2^/4 hrs.) chalets of Isenaux; thence, without path, and rather rough,
hr. more to the top ; view of the Bernese Alps from the Diablerets to
Bakdbkbk, Switzerland. 12th Edition. 15
'ctf
226 Route 66, LE SEPEY.
the Jungfrau and of the Dent du Midi to the S.W. \ at the N. base of the
mountain lies the pretty Amen-See. Or we may ascend from the Col de
Pill<m in lV»-2 hrs. , past the small Rettau-See. — Fointe de KeiUeret
(6404'), 2V2 hrs. from Vers rEglise; no difficulty; view extending to
Mont Blanc. — Good walkers need no guide foT any of these.
The Oldenhom (10^250'), Fr. Beeca d''Audon^ a superb point of view, is as-
cended from Gsteig (7 hrs.), or from Le Plan (8 hrs. 5 guide 15 fr.). A
steady head and sure foot necessary. Travellers from Ormont spend the
night in the chalet of Pillon; those from Gsteig on the Upper Oldenalp.
The Diableret (10,650'i 7 hrs.^ guide 18 fr.), from the Hotel des Diab-
lerets, difficult. Imposing view. Easy descent over the Zcmfleuron Olader
to the Sanetsch Pcus (comp. p. 225).
To YiLLAKs (4 hrs.), ob Gbton (4Vs brs.) bt the Col db la Cboix, a
fine route (or over the Col de la Croix and the Chamossaire to Villars
6Vs hTS-; guide, 6 fr., not indispensable). From the Hotel des Diablerets we
ascend the -valley of the Grande-Eau for I1/4 M., and then enter a lateral
valley by a bridle-path to the right (S.W.). After a somewhat steep ascent
of l*/4 hr., with almost uninterrupted views of the Diablerets, we reach
the Col de la Croix (5687'), 5 min. N. of the hamlet of La Croix. View lim-
ited. (Travellers who do not ascend the Chamossaire should at least
mount the pastures to the right of the Col de la Croix for 1/2 ^* in order
to obtain a fine view of Mont Blanc.) The path descends on the right
bank of the Oryonne^ and after 1 V4 br. divides : to the left to Arveye 10 min. \
to the right to Villars 20 min. (p. 221). — The path to Qryon descends to
the left a little above Arveye , crosses the brook , and reaches Gryon in
40 min. (p. 230). This route is preferable to a path to Gryon which crosses
the Gryonne Vs ^^- from the pass and follows the left bank.
Adjoining Ormont-Dessus are the houses of the lower part of the
valley, known as Ormont-DesBOiiB. About 4^2 M. from Vers TEglise
the road joins that from Chateau d'Oex (p. 229); to the S. appears
the Dent du Midi. We next reach (IV2 M.) Le Sepey (3704'; Hot,
des Alpesf Mont d* Or ^ well spoken of ; Cerf^ moderate; one-horse
carr. to Plan 8 fr., and fee of 2 fr.) , the chief village in the lower
part of the valley. The clock here strikes each hour a second time
after a minute's interval.
ExouBsiONS. Pic de Chautsy (77980, 4V2 brs., not difficult (comp. p. 229).
— Ascent of the *' Chamossaire via Bretaye (3V2-4 hrs.), and descent to Villars
(IV2 br.), see p. 221. — A road, with fine views, leads from Sepey by Les
Cretes to the lofty village of (2V2 M.) Leysin (4150'; tavern, good Yvorne).
From Leysin to (IV2 hr-) Aigle a good path descends to the left by the
fountain beyond the church, afifording charming views of the Rhone Valley,
the Dent du Midi, part of the Mont Blanc chain, and to the left the Dent de
Morcles, Dent Favre, and Grand Moeveran.
The road turns suddenly to the S.W. in a line wooded valley.
Far below, the Qrande-Eau forms several falls ; to the left rises the
Chamossaire (p. 221). Near Aigle we cross the Grande-Eau.
Aigle^ 7 M. from Sepey, see p. 221.
67. From Bulle to Ch&teaa d'Oex and Aigle.
Comp. Maps^ pp. 208 ^ 224.
4IV2 M. DiLiGBNCB twice daily to (18 M.) Chateau d'Oex in 4 hrs.
(4 fr. 85 c.; coupd 6 fr. 30 c); thence to (23V2 M.) Aigle daily in 5Vabrs.
(8fr. 25 c.-, coupd 11 fr. 25 c.).
Bnlle r24»7'; pop. 2494; *mu des Alpes, near the station,
R. 2, D. 21/2 fr. ; *Vnion; Cheval Blarhc ; Hdtel de la ViUe or PosU),
GRUYfeRES. 67, Route, 227
a busy llttie town, the chief place of the Otuylrt and the centre of
the Freiburg dairy-farming district, is the terminus of the Romont
and BuUe railway (p. 195). The environs consist of rich pasture-
land, famed for Gruy^re cheese and the melodious ^ranz des vaches*
or cattle-call. The natives speak a Romanic dialect, known as
•Orutfrien*.
On the slopes of the Uol^son, 2 M. to the S. (carriage in 20 min. lie
the snlphur^batha of Koatbarry (2712'; pens. 5-6 fr.), commanding a (farm-
ing view. Ascent of the Mol^son hence, 8-3 Vs hrs.
Abckkt or THS HoLtaoN FROK Bulls, 4 hrs.; guide (8 fr.) unnecessary
for the experienced. We follow the Ghatel St. Denis road (see below) for
s/4 M., and diverge to the left by a saw-mill. The nath gradually as-
cends by the brook La Trime^ which it crosses by a (20 min.) mill, to the
(V? hr.) red-roofed buildings of Part-JHeu^ formerly a Carthusian monastery
(3133'), and leads along the W. slope (guide-posts) of the mountain, cross-
ing several small affluents of the Trdme. We pass O/z br.) the QroB-Chalei-
Nst^f; (1 hr.) Orot-Planay (a rustic inn in a large pasture); (3/4 hr.) chalet
of Botme Fontaiut. Thence by a steep path to the summit in i/a hr. more
(Inn near the top).
The *MoUaon (6578'), the Rigi of W. Switzerland, is a bold rock, preci-
pitous on every side, surrounded with meadows and forests, which afford
an excellent field for the botanist. The view embraces the Lake of Geneva,
tbe Mts. of Savoy, the Dent d'Oche and Dent dn Midi, and stretches to the
Mont Blanc chain, of which the summit and the Aiguille Verte and Aiguille
d''Argenti6re are visible. To the left of ihe latter, nearer the foreground,
rises the Dent de Hordes, the first peak of a chain which culminates
in the Diablerets in the centre, and extends to the heights of Gruy6re
at our feet. The only visible peak of the Valaisian Alps is the Grand
Combin, to the left of the Mont Blanc group. Most of the Bernese Alps
are also concealed. To the extreme left, the Titlis. To the W. the Jura.
AacxNT OF THK MoLiKsoM FBOM AxBXUvB (scc below ; 31/3-4 hrs.). On
the outskirts of the yillage the path crosses to the left bank of the brook,
traverses pastures, enters a picturesque ravine, and follows a well-shaded
slope to a small chapel and a saw-mill. Here we cross the stream, re-
cross it at a charcoid-kiln , Vs kr. farther , and reach (5 min.) the first
chalet. Towards the N.N.E. the ridge separating the Mol^on from the
Little Hol^on is now visible. The paUi continues traceable to the vicinity
of the highest chalet, which we leave on the left. Thence a somewhat
fatiguing climb of 11/4 hr. to the arftte, which is easily found, though
there is no path, and to the summit, which rises before us, in 10 min. more.
From Bulle through the Jaunthal to BoWgtn in the Simmenthal, see
p. 182. (Diligence in summer daily in 6V4 hrs.) — From Bulle to Vbvxt
(25 M.) diligence daily in 5 hrs., by Vuadens, Vaulrtu (Hot. de la Ville),
JBenuaUt^ and Ohatal St. Oenia (2670*; S6t, ds la VilU), a small town
prettily situated on the Veveyte, (The Mol^on may be ascended hence, by
the Alp TreiMtiaMy in 4 hrs.)
The road from Bulle to Gh&teau d'Oex leads past (S/4 M.) La
Tour de Trtme, with its picturesque old tower, to (I72 M.)
Epagny (2390' ; Croix Blanche ; one>horse oarr. to Montbovon, 7 fr.).
On a steep rocky hill to the right lies the old town of Oriiy^ret
(2723' ; *Fleuf de Lys, plain), with a well-preserved old castle of
the onoe powerful Counts of Gruydres, who became extinct in the
16th cent. , flanked with massive towers and walls, and now con-
taining frescos, a collection of old weapons, etc. (fee to attendant).
We enter the pretty valley of the Sarine^ or Scume, At (1 V^ M.)
Enney (24090 ^® observe the tooth-like Dent de Corjeon (6460')
in the background ; on the right are Lee VadaUea (5207') , spurs
15 ♦
228 RouU67. JAMAN.. From BuUe
of the MoMson. At the mouth of a ravine opposite (2V4 M.) VU-
lard-aoua-Mont lies the large Tillage of Grand- ViUard, overshadowed
by barren mountains. Passing Neirivue^ we next reach (1 M.) Al-
beuve (2487' ; *Ange, moderate; ascent of the MoMson, see above),
cross the Hongrin (below, to the left, is a picturesque old bridge),
and arrive at (3 M.) Hontbovon (2608'; *H6tel du Jaman; horses
and guides).
Fkou Montbovon ovbb thb Jaman to Hontbeux (6 hrs.) ob Vevbt
(TVi hrs.)- Gruide nnnecefifiary (8 fr.); horse to the top of the pass 10, to
Lea Avants 20, to Hontrenx or Vevey 25 fr. A most attractive wsJk^
bat the pass shonld be reached as early as possible, as the midday mists
are apt to conceal the lake from view.
From the hotel we follow the road for 90 paces, and then ascend to
the right-, 2dmin., we tarn to the right by ahonse; 35min., bridge over
the Hongrin; 1/4 hr., chnrch of the scattered village of Allierea; V* ^i**!
Oroix Noire inn. (A direct roate from Albeuve to this point follows the
Montbovon road for V2 ^m ^^^ diverges to the right by a path to Sciemet
and Allieres, 1^4 hr.; beyond Sdemes we take the path descending a
Uttle to the left.)
The path now ascends gradually to the foot of the pass, then more
rapidly over green pastures (not too mach to the left), to the chalets of
the Plan de Jaman, a little beyond the boundary between cantons Freiburg
and Vaud , and the (IV2 hr.) *0ol de la Bent de Jaman (4974'). A most
beautiful prospect is suddenly disclosed here, embracing the Rochers de
Naye and the entire range to the 8. as far as the Tour d'Ai', and to the
N. as far as the Dent de Lys and the Mol^son; also the rich Canton de
Vaud, the S. part of the Jura chain, the long range of the Savoy Alps,
the £. angle of the Lake of Geneva, and the huge Valaisian Hts. to the
S. From the Dent de Jaman (6165'; fatiguing ascent of IV4 hr. from the
Gol) the view is still more extensive, including the lakes of Geneva,
Neuchatel, and Morat, Pilatus, and the Weissenstein.
From the pass to Montreux the path cannot be mistaken; 12 min.
from the chalets it turns to the right (the path to the left, skirting the B.
slope of the Bale, or brook of Montreux, being shorter but rough); 25 min.,
a bridge over the brook; then a slight ascent, and a level walk to (Vshr.)
Lee Avants (3212'; *ff6tel des Avants^ well situated, pens. SVs-lO fr.). A new
road descends hence on the W. slope of the valley. Where it trends to the
W., 2 H. from Les Avants, at the beginning of the region of fruit-trees,
we descend by a paved path to the left to (10 min.) Sonzier^ and then
rapidly to the left again to (V2 hr.) Montr eux-Vemex (p. 218).
The road to the right at the bend above mentioned soon leads to
the village of Chamex (2290'), charmingly situated in the midst of orchards,
from which another road, passing to the N. of Gh&telard, leads to Brent
and Chilly. Instead of entering the village, we descend by a road to
the left, which leads us into the Vevey road. To Vevey (p. 215), 4V8 M.
from the bend. (The traveller coming from Vevey must, by the last
houses of La Tour^ take the first path to the left, and then incline to the
right; 12 min., to the right; 12 min., a finger-post, indicating the way to
'Challey, Gharnex, and Jaman\)
The valley of the Sarine now turns to the E., and we enter a
wooded ravine, the stream flowing far below in a deep rocky chan-
nel. In a wider part of the valley lies (2^/4 M.) La Tine (Inn), with
beautiful meadows. Farther on (2^2 M.) ''^^ observe on the oppo-
site bank the pretty village of Bossini^res (^Pena. Grand Chalet,
5-6 fr. ; Pena, Dubuia; Eng. Ch. Serv. in summer). At (IV2 M.)
Lea Moulinaj at the mouth of the Toumereaae, the road to Aigle di-
verges to the right (see p. 229). We cross the Sarine by the (8/4 M.)
bridge of Le Pri, and ascend to (1 M.) —
to CMteau d'Oex, CHATEAU D'OEX. 67. Route, 229
18 M. Ch&teau d'Oex, Ger. Oesch (3498'; *H6L Berthod, in an
open situation, R., L., & A. 3, D. fr. ; •Omw, in the Tillage, R.,
L., & A. 2V2-3V2fr-; *Pen8. Bosat, *ViUa d'Oex, Bricod, de la Che-
neau, du Midi, Morier-Romt, etc., pens, from 5fr. ; Turrian, con-
fectioner, ices, also a few lOoms, opposite Berthod), a scattered vil-
lage and summer resort in a green valley. The churcli, situated on a
Mil, commands a good view. To the E. rise the jagged Ruhlihom
(7567') and the Oumfluh (8065').
^Mont Gray (6795') may be ascended from ChS,teau d'Oex in 3 hrs.
(guide desirable). Tbe view embraces tbe Bernese and Valaisian Alps as
far as Mont Blanc, and tbe lakes of Bienne and Neucbatel to the "S.
Fbom Chateau d'Obx to Aigle (23 M. ; diligence daily in
5*/2 hrs.). The road diverges from the Bulle road at (1^/4 M.) Les
Moulins (p. 229) to the left, and ascends the valley of the Tour-
neretse (VaUie de VEtivaz) in long windings. (Walkers follow
the old road, diverging at Le Pre, just beyond the Sarine bridge.)
The road runs high above the valley, affording picturesque views of
the profound rocky bed of the brook. At (31/4 M.) Au^Devant the
road enters a more open tract, and its continuation is seen on the
mountain to the right, but it remains in the valley as far as (2 M.)
VEHvcui (3865'), where it turns and quits the ravine. (Pedestrians
avoid this long bend by a rough, stony path descending to the right
by a saw-mill in the valley, and rejoining the road considerably
higher up.) From Etivaz (above, a new hotel) to the top of the
hill (5070') 2 M. ; then a slight descent to (8/4 M.) La Ucherette
(4520'; Inn). We next reach (I74M.) Lea Mosses (Inn), where
we have a splendid view of the Dent du Midi. The road now
descends the valley of the Raverctte to (2^4 M.) La Comballaz
(4476'; ^Couronni), much frequented for its mineral spring and
its pure air. {Pic de Chaussy, 7798', an easy ascent of 3 hrs. ;
see p. 226.) Beyond this the road overlooks a very picturesque
basin, with the Dlablerets and Oldenhorn in the background, and
winds down to (3 M.) Le Sepey (p. 226) and (7 M.) Aigle (p. 220).
68. From Bex to Sion. Fas de Cheville.
Comp. Map, p. 224.
11 hrs. From Bex to Gryon 7 M. (hotel omnibus V2 fr. ; diligence 2 fr.
90 c, one-horse carr. 12 fr., descent 8 fr.) j then a bridle-path. Guide to
Aven desirable (P. L. Amiguet, P. F. Broyon, and O. F. and Henri Aulet
at Gryon : a guide may generally be found at Anzeindaz also ; from Gryon
to Sion 12 fr.). Horse 20 fr.
The route over the Pas de Cheville , cutting off the right angle formed
by the Rhone Valley at Martigny, presents an almost continuous series of
wild rocky landscapes, especially on the Valais (S.) side, and commands the
Rhone Valley towards the end of the journey.
BeXy p. 221. The road leads to the N. to BSvieux (p. 222), crosses
the AvanQon, and ascends in zigzags (which the old path cuts off),
passing the villages of La Chene, Fenalet, and Aux Posses. Fine
view of the Dent du Midi (p. 233). Near Gryon we obtain to the
A
230 BouU 68. PAS D£ CHEVILLE.
right a pleasing gUmpse of the yjllage of Freniires and the falls of a
branch of the Avan^n, descending from the Valine des Plans (p. 222).
7M. Ghrjon (3632'; Pens, Scmuast; Pens. Morely pens, at both
4^2-5 f r.) is a considerable village. To ViUars , and over the Col
de la Croix to Otmont^Dettus^ see p. 226.
Bbidlb Path. By the (lOmln.) last house of Oryon we follow
the path to the right, in ylew of the foar peaks of the DiabUreU,
and skirt their steep S. slopes in the valley of the Avan^n.
On the right rise the Argentine (7985') and 'Uie Grand Mctveran
(10,043'). Above the (1 hr.) chalets oi 8ergnemmt(Ji2Ab') we cross
the Avan^on, and for a short distance traverse a pine-forest on
the abrupt limestone slopes of the Argentine, which glitter like silver
in the sunshine. Grossing the Avan^n again, and passing the
(3/4 hr.) chalets of Solalex (4810') , we ascend a atony slope in a
long curve, and next reach the chalets of (IV2 hr.) Amtindiig
(6220'; Inn with 9 beds, open from the middle of July to Sept.
only). To the S. lies the Olacier de Paneyroataz, descending from
the Tite d Pierre Qrept (9644'), adjoined on the E. by the THe du
Oroa-Jean (8567'). To the N. rise the rugged and riven limestone cliffs
and peaks of the DiablereU (highest peak 10,650' ; ascent difficult
and dizzy; experts take 4 hrs. from Anzeindaz). Our path now
ascends gradually, to (3/4 hr.) the Fai de Cheville (6722'). In the
distance to the E. are the Alps of Yalais, over which towers the
Weisshorn. The path now descends to the left, round the moun-
tain, where a wall and gate mark the frontier of Yalais, and over
steep and stony slopes, past a waterfall, to the (Ys hr.) Chalets de
Cheville (5710'). Here we cross the brook, follow the slope to the
right, and then descend in zigzags, passing the chalets oi Derhorenee
(5213'), to (V2 hr.) the Lae de Derhorenee (4698'), in a gloomy
basin formed by a fall of rocks from the Diablerets in 1749. To
the left, high above us, lies the great Zanfleuron Olaeier.
We skirt the S. side of the lake ; then cross (3/4 hr.) the Liseme,
follow the left bank, and passing the chalets otBesson (4370'), skirt
a wooded slope descending steeply from the E. into the profound
gorge of the Liseme. The path, for the most part protected by a low
stone wall, and quite safe, gradually descends to (1^/4 hr.) the Cha-
peUe 8t. Bernard (3530'), at the end of the Liserne gorge, where an
extensive view of the Rhone Valley is suddenly disclosed. We now
descend to the left to (20 min.) Aven, surrounded by fruit-trees, follow
the slope to (20 min.) Erde and (25 min.) 8t. SSverin, a thriving
village belonging to Conthey^ one of the chief wine-growing vUlages
in the Rhone Valley, which extends to the (iy2^0 bridge over the
Marge. From this point by the high-road to (274 M.)/Sion, see p. 283.
Instead of following the dusty road, we may cross tiie vine-clad hill
of Murat from St. S^verin by a path commanding a fine view.
A shorter route (shaded in the afternoon) on the right bank of the
Liserne diverges to the right 5 min. before the Liseme bridge (see above).
THONON. 69. Route, 231
It crosses d^'bris at first, and is not easy to trace. Beyond the (10 min.)
chalets of Moitelon^ we ascend to the right and pass above the chalets
of Servaplana (4075'; milk) to (1 hr.) those of FAirette. Then nearly
level, with fine views of the Bhone Valley; lastly a zigzag descent to
(iVsbr.) Ardon (Hotel du Pont), 1/2 M. from the station of that name (p. 283).
69. From Geneya to St. Maurice by Bonveret.
Lake of Geneva fS. Bank),
Gomp. Mapy p. 208.
Steamboat to Bouveret along the S. Bank 3 times daily, in 41/2-6 hrs.
(fare 6 or 3 fr.). Stations : Cologny^ BeloHe^ Bellerive, Conier, Aniires, Her-
tnanee, Tougues-Douvaine^ Nemier^ Yvoire^ Anthy-Sichety Thonon, Amphionf
and Evian. — Railway from Annemasse (to which omnibuses and a tram-
way run from Geneva, p. 199) to (8872 M.) Bouveret in 2 hrs. (comp. p. 238).
Geneva, see p. 198. On leaving the quay the steamer affords a
fine retrospect of the tovn with its nnmerous villas. It touches at
Cologny (the village lying on the hiU above, p. 207), La Belotte (for
V^aenaZy p. 207), Bellerive (for CoUonge, a little inland), Corsier,
and Anihres. At Hermance (*Pens. Sinai; Pens, du Colombier) the
hrook of that name falls into the lake, forming the boundary be-
tween the Canton of Geneva and Savoy (France). Then Tongues and
Nemiety opposite which Nyon (p. 210) is conspicuous on theN. bank.
Beyond Yvoire with its ancient castle, situated on a promontory,
the lake suddenly expands to its greatest width (8^/4 M.). The N.
hank is now so distant that its villages aie only distinguished in
dear weather. A large bay opens to the S., in which lies Excenevrex.
The Savoy Mts. become more conspicuous.
Thonon (1401'; pop. 5500; Hotel de VEurope^ on the terrace ;
Balance; Ville de Geneve), rising picturesquely from the lake, the
ancient capital of the province of Chahlais, possesses handsome
huildings and a lofty terrace in the upper town, the site of a palace
of the Dukes of Savoy which was destroyed by the Bernese in 1536.
Railway to Bellegarde, see p. 238. — To the S. of Thonon (3 M.) is
the village of Let AllingeSj commanded by a ruined castle (ascent Va br. \
fine view).
From Thonon a road ascends the pretty Vallet of the Dbance by
Le Biot and St. Jean d'^Aulph (with ruins of a monastery) to (20 M.) a bridge
which crosses the Drance opposite to Montriondy beyond which the road
divides. The road to the right leads by Les Gets (1112m) to (10 H.) Tan-
inges (p. 255) \ that to the left to (3 M.) Morzine (Hotel des Alpes). From
Morzine over the Col de Jouplane or the Col de la OoUse to (4 hrs.) Sa-
moens, see p. 254^ over the Col de Coux to (5*/* brs.) Champir!/, see p. 234.
The steamer next passes the ancient chateau of BipaiUej on the
lake, a little to the N. of Thonon, once the seat of Duke Victor Ama-
deus VIII. of Savoy (p. 213). The long promontory round which
the vessel now steers has been formed by the deposits of the Drance,
which falls into the lake here (not to be confounded with the af-
fluent of the Rhone, p. 224). In the bay lie the baths of Amphion
(Gr. H6t. des Bains), with a chalyheate spring, in a chestnut^grove.
We next touch at Evian-les-BamB (^Orand'H6t, d'Evian^ with
garden on the lake; H6t. des Bains; H6t, de France; H6t, du Nord;
232 BouU 69. BOUVERET. From Geneva
*E6t, de Fonbonne, on the lake), a small town plctnresquely situated
(2913 inh.), with a lofty and conspicuous church - tower. High
above the lake, in the centre of the town, is the Bath-'house (water
containing bi-carbonate of soda), the garden rising at the back of
which affords a beautiful view. At the end of the pleasant lake pro-
menade is the prettily situated Casino , containing a pretty theatre.
— Railway to Bouveret and BeUegarde^ see p. 238.
On the lake, near station Tour-Ronde, is the old chatean of
Blonay with a park. Opposite lies Lausanne (p. 212), picturesquely
situated on the hill-side; more to the right is visible the lofty
Paudfeze viaduct, on the Oron Railway (p. 195). The hills of the
S. bank, which the boat now skirts, become steeper and higher.
In a romantic situation close to the lake is Meillerie, where, in
Rousseau's 'Nouvelle H^o'ise', St. Preux takes shelter at the house
of Mme. Yolmar during a storm. It was accessible from the lake only,
until Napoleon I. caused the Simplon road to be hewn through the
rocks. The railway is here carried through a tunnel. Beautiful
view near Lea VaUettes.
St. Gtingolph (Poste ; Lion d'OrJj on a promontory opposite Ve-
vey (p. 215), belongs half to Savoy, and half to Valais, the bound-
ary being the Morge, which flows through a deep ravine. The grotto
of VivierSy with its springs, may be visited by boat.
Interesting excursion, wiUi fine views, up the ravine of the Morge and
across the mountain to Port Valais (see below). We may extend our walk
on the left bank of the Morge to (IV4 hr.) Novel (two poor inns), ascend
the Blanchard (4642'^ with guide, 1^/4 hr.), and return by the right bank
of the Morge through beautiful forest to St. Gingolph. — Ascent of the Dent
d'Oche (73(xy) from Novel, interesting, 4-5 hrs. (with guide) •, the Qrcmvmont
(71460 4 hrs., also interesting. — To the £. of Novel a tolerable bridle-path
leads round the S. side of the Grammont, and past the lakes of Lovtnex
and Tanney^ in 4V2 hrs. to Vouvry (see below).
Bouveret (Tour) lies at the S.E. end of the Lake of Geneva,
3/4 M. to the S.W. of the mouth of the Bhone, which has converted
the adjoining land into a marsh. Its impetuous current , called la
Battaglikre^ may be traced for upwards of 1 M. in the lake. — Rail-
way to BeUegarde, see p. 238.
The Railway enters the Rhone Valley to the S.E. and follows
the left bank. At the foot of a rocky hill to the right lies Port
Valais J the Portus Valleaiae of the Romans, once on the lake, but
now IV2 M. inland. Near the defile of La Porte du Sex (1290^,
which was anciently fortified, and formed the key to Canton Valais
in this direction, the rock approaches so near the river as scarcely
to leave room for the road. The railway is carried out into the bed
of the river. A wooden bridge crosses to Chessel on the right bank.
To the right rises the Dent du Midi (p. 233).
4 M. Vouvry (Poste)^ on the right, is the first station ; beauti-
ful view by the church. The Rhone is joined here by the 5tocfcal!p«f \
Canal, begun a century ago by a family of that name, but never
finished. To the right are the villages of Vionnaz and Muras at
to St Maurice. CHAMPJ^RY. 69. BouU, 233
the foot of the hills. Opposite the fonner lies Yvorne (p. 220), to
the right of which rise the serrated Diablerets and the snow-clad
Oldenhorn. We next pass Colomhey, with its nunneiy (fine view).
A suspension-bridge, 70 yds. long, crosses the Rhone here to Ollon-
St. Triphon (p. 221).
10 M. Monthey (1380'; Ctoix d'Or; Cerf), with an old ch&teau
and glass-works. In a chestnut-grove (guide advisable) 20 min.
above it, among a number of boulders, is the huge Pierre-a-dzo
(pierre suspendue), curiously balanced on a point not exceeding a
few square inches in area.
To the S.W. of Monthey opens the "^Val d'lUiez, about 12 H. in length,
remarkable for its fresh green pastures, picturesque scenery, rare plants,
and stalwart inhabitants. (One-horse carr. from Monthey to Champery 10,
two-horse 15 fr. and fee; omnibus in summer daily in 3V4 hrs., 2 fr. ^ c.)
ISe&r Monthey the new road ascends on the left bank of the VUze through
vineyards, an4 afterwards for 2 M. through a chestnut-wood, in numerous
windings (cut off by the old paved bridle-path, following the telegraph-
posts, the beginning of which had better be asked for at Monthey).
Beautiful retrospect of the valley of the Rhone, Bex and Aigle, the Diable-
rets, and the Grand Mceveran. About V4 M. above Monthey the old path
joins the road, which we now follow to the left where the telegraph-wires
turn in that direction, and do not again quit. (The path to the right
ascends to Morgin.) We next reach (iVa M.) the prettily situated village of
Troistorrents (2502'; Hotel-Pens. Troistorrents), with a good fountain near the
church. (Here to the W. opens the Val de Mobgin, in which lie the Baths
of Morgifhy 4405', 3 hrs. from Monthey; the chalybeate water is chiefly
used for drinking ; ^Grand Hotel, pens. 6-8 fr.) The road in the Val d'llliez
gradually ascends, in view of the Dent du Midi all the way, to (2V2 M.)
Val drilliez (3122') and (3 M.) Champiftry (3450'; '^EdUl de la Dent du
Midi, R. 2, lunch 2V2, !>■ 3V2, pens, from 6 fr.; "> Croix Fidirale, R. IV2,
D. 2 fr., unpretending), the highest village in the valley, beautifully si-
tuated.
Excursions fbqu Chahf£:rt. (Guides, Maur. Caillet^ Ant. Grenon^ Jos.
Oherhausen^ etc.) The Mac dPAyeme (1 hr.) affords a good survey of the envi-
rons. — The "^Cttlet (6448'; guide 4 fr.) commands a splendid view, espe*
cially of the Dent du Midi. We follow the path to the Col de Coux (see
below) for >/« br., turn to the right by a small shrine where the path
divides, pass a large chalet on the left, and another on the right, farther
up; then through pine- wood, and by a narrow path to the cross on the
top. Chalets and cow-herds afford frequent opportunities of asking the way.
"Dent du Midi (10,450' ; 7-8 hrs. ; guide 18, with a night at Bonaveau 20,
with descent to Vernayaz 24 or 26 fr.). The previous night is spent in the
chalets of (2 hrs.) ^onav^au (5103'; good quarters), IV4 hr. from Champery
(see below), thence by the Pas d'^Encel the Col de Suzante, and the Col
des Paressevx to the summit 5-6 hrs., the last 3 hrs. very fatiguing, but
without danger to the sure-footed. Late in summer the path is almost free
from snow, and there is no glacier to cross. The view of Mont Blanc and
the Alps of the Valais and Bern is imposing; the background to the S.
is formed by the Alps of Dauphin^ and Piedmont; the Lake of Geneva
is visible from Villeneuve to Vevey. We may descend to Salvan (6^/4 hrs.);
at first a toilsome descent over debris to (3^/4 hrs.) the meagre pastures of
the upper Salan/e Alp (6278'; occupied in August only); then across the
Alp and past the picturesque falls of the Salan/e by a steep and stony
path to (IV2 hr.) Van d''en haut (milk), where we cross the Salanfe. A
better path now skirts the S. side of the valley (affording a view of
Mont Blanc as a comer is turned), and then descends to (1 hr.) Salvan.
Tour Ballieres (10,587'; 9-10 hrs., guide 30 fr.; spend night at Bona-
veau, see above), a difficult and fatiguing ascent, crossing the Olacier du
Mont-Ruan. Superb view of Mont Blanc. — Similar view from the Dents
234 BouU 69. COL DE COUX.
Blanches (91000 1 ascended by the Barmaz Alp in 6 hrs., without danger
for proficients (guide 15 fr.)*
Passes. Fboh Champ£bt to Samo£ns oveb the Cols de Coux
AND DE LA GoL^SE, 6^2 hrs. \ guldc (13 fr.) unnecessary. At the (^/i hr.)
small shrine mentioned above, rre keep to the left, and, passing several
chalets, and looking back on the imposing Dent du Midi, reach (2 hrs.)
the Ool de Oouz (SSIO'; Inn), the frontier of Switzerland and Savoy,
which towards the W. overlooks the valley of the Drance. The saddle to
the left is the Col de la Ool^se. In descending, partly through wood, we
avoid the paths leading to the right to Morzine (p. 231). On leaving the
wood we see the continuation of the path bearing to the left to the (1V2 hr.)
Col de la GoUse (5410')- Beautiful view of the side-valley in which Les
AUamans lies, and afterwards of the valley of the (Hffre. Then (l*/4 hr.)
SamoSng (p. 264). A good road thence to (IVa M.) 8ixt (p. 264).
FsoM Champ£bt to Sixt oveb the Col de Sagebou, 8-9 hrs., ar-
duows, only for adepts (guide necessary, 18 fr.). From the Hotel de la
Dent du Midi, we descend by a narrow road leading towards the head of
the valley to a (20 min.) bridge, and beyond it, at (3 min.) the point
where two brooks unite to form the Viize^ we cross another bridge, and
avoid the path to the left. After 10 min. more we take the path to the
left, ascending rapidly for 1 hr., and 10 min. from the top of the ascent
reach the Chalets de Bonaveau (p. 233); thence we ascend gradually,
skirting precipitous rocks, to the (40 min.) Pas cTBncel^ where a little climb-
ing, facilitated by iron rods attached to the rock, is necessarv. In 1/4 hr. more
the path to the Col de Suzanfe diverges to the left (see below). Our route
ascends slowly over the pastures of the Buzanfe Alp^ on the left bank of
the brook , crosses the brook (V2 hr.), and then mounts a very steep and
dizzy path to the (1 hr.) Ool de Bageron (7917'), a sharp argte descending
abruptly on both sides. We descend thence to the (*/4 hr.) chalets of
Vogealles and (Vzhr.) Borce^ and along an almost perpendicular rocky
slope into the O/a hr.) valley of the Oiffre. In l>/4 hr. we reach Nant
Bride, and in iV4 hr. more Sixt Op. 264).
Fbom Sixt to Ghamokix. The most interesting approaches to Cha-
monix are the route over the Col d'Anteme and Col du Brivent (10-11 hrs.;
comp. p. 254), and that over the Col des Fonds (Col Lichaud) and the Buet
(14 hrs.), the former in fine weather without, the latter always with a
guide (comp. p. 256). A supply of provisions should be taken in each case.
Fbom Ghamp&bt to Vebnataz over the Col dk Suzanfe (7940' ; 10-11
hrs.; with guide), fatiguing. Beyond the Pas d^Encel (see above) we ascend
to the left to the col, between the Dent du Midi and the Tour Salli^res,
and descend through the Salanfe Valley (see above) to Salvan and Ver-
nayaz. — Or we may ascend to the right from the chalets of Salanfe,
1 hr. beyond the Col de Suzanfe, and cross the Col or CAiev d'Emaney
(8356^), lying between the Tour Salli^res and the Luisin (p. 258), to the
valley of the Triige, Emcmey, and (5-6 hrs.) Triquent (p. 258), or the Col
d'Emaney and Col de Barberine to the valley of the Eau Noire, Barber ne,
and (7 hrs.) Valoreine (p. 266), or finally to the E. by the Col de Salanfe
(72900 to (3V2 brs.) Evicnnaz (p. 223).
The train crosses the Vihze, which descends from theVal d'llliez,
and at Massongex approaches the Rhone. At (14V2 M.)i5t. Maurice
(p. 222) our line is joined by that of the rigbt bank.
V. SAVOY, THE VALAIS, AND THE ADJACENT
ITALIAN ALPS.
70. From Geneva by Culoz and Aix-les-Bains to Cham-
b^ry and back by Annecy 238
Ferte dn Rhone. From Bellegarde to Boaveret, 238. —
EzcuFsioiis from Aix-les-Bains ; Lac du Bourget ; Hatite-
Gombe, etc., 239. — From Aix-lee-Bains to Annecy, 240.
— Excarsions from Cbamb^ry, 241. — From AlbertvUle
to MoAtiers and Beaufort, 242. — From TJgine to Sal-
lahches or St. Gervais, 242. — Excursions from Annecy;
the Semnoz, Parmelan, and Tournette. To Scionzier
via Grand Bomand, 243. — From Annecy to Sallanches
over the Col des Aravis, 244.
71. From Geneva to Chamonix 244
From Bonneville to Taninges, 245. — Pointe Percee.
St. Gervais-les-Bainfl, and over the Col de la Forclaz
to Les Honches, 246. — Gorges de la Diosaz, 246.
72. Chamonix and its Environs 247
Mont Blanc, 252. — From Chamonix over the Col du
G^ant to Courmayeur. Cols de Triolet, de Pierre-Joseph,
des Hirondelles, de Miage, de Trelatete, d'Argentiere,
du Chardonnet, du Tour, 253, 254. — From Chamonix
to Sixt over the Cols du Br^vent and d"'Anteme, or over
the Buet, 254, 255.
73. From Chamonix to Martigny over the Tete-Noire, or
to Yemayaz by Triquent and Salvan 255
Glacier d^Argentiere, 256. — Gorges Hyst^rieuses on the
Tete Noire, 257. — Cascade du Dalley, Luisin, 258.
74. From Martigny to Chamonix. Col de Balme .... 258
Glacier du Trient 258. — From the Col de Balme to
the T8te-Koire, 259.
75. From Chamonix to Courmayeur over the Col du Bon-
hoflame and the Col de la Seigne. Tour du Mont Blanc. 260
Mont Joli; Glacier de TrelatSte; Col du Hont Tondu,
260, 261. — From Chapieux to Pr^-St-Didier over the Little
St. Bemhard,262. — Excursions from Oourmayenr : Col de
Ch^eouri; Mont de la Saxej Pavilion du Fruitier, 264. —
From Courmayeur to Martigny over the Col Ferret, 264.
76. From Courmayeur to Aosta and Ivrea. The Gralan Alps 265
Tdte de Gramont. From Prd-St. Didier to Bourg-St.
Maurice over the Little St. Bernhard; Mt. Valaisan, .
Belvedere, Lancebranlette , 265. — From Bonrg-St.-
Maurice to Tignes, 265. — Becca di Koaa ; Mont Emilius \
Mt. Failure, 267. — From Aosta to Zermatt over the
Col de Valpelline. Bee de Luseney. Passes from Val-
pellina to the Val St. Barth^lemy, 267, 268. — From
Aosta to Cogne, 270. — Col d^Arbole. Punta del Pousset.
Grivola. Tersiva. Passes from Cogne to Champorcher,
Ceresole, etc., 271. — From Cogne to Valsavaranche
over the CoUe Laueon. Colle Herbetet and Mesoncles.
Gran Paradiso, 272. — From Valsavaranche to BhSme
Kotre Dame over the Col d'Entrelor. Colle di Sort.
Colle di Eheme. Colle Rossetto, 273. — From RhSme
Notre Dame to Valgrisanche over the Colle Finestra.
Ruitor. Col du Mont, 273. — From Villeneuve to Ceresole
and Ponte over the Col de Nivolet. Col de la Galise, 274.
236
SAVOY AND VALAIS.
77. From Martigny to Aosta OTer the Great St. Bernard . 275
Gorges du Dnrnant, 275. — Mont Chemin. Champex.
Col dea Ecandiea. Cabane d^Orny ; FenStre de Saleinaz.
TSte de Bois. Valsorey Valley, 276. — Grand Combin 5
Hont Velan, 277. — Chenalette; Pointe des Lacerandea;
Hont Xort. From St. Bernard's Hoapice over the Ool
de Fen^tre to Martigny, and over the Col Ferret to Cour-
xnayeur. Col de la Seri^na, 279.
78. From Martigny to Aosta over the Col de Fen^tre. Val
deBagnes 280
Cabane de Panoaaiere ; Grand Combin : Cola du CrSt, de
Sevreu, de Cleuaon, and de Louvie, 280, 281. — Excur-
sions from Mauvoisin. Mont Avril; Tour de Bouaaine;
Grand Combin ; Mont Blanc de Seiion \ Mont Pleureur,
etc., 28'2. — From Chermontane to Bourg-8t-Pierre over
the Col du Sonadon or the Col dea Maiaona Blanchea;
to Liappey over the Cola de Seiion, de Breney, and de
Vasevay, to Valpellina over the Cols de Cr3te S^he,
d'Otemma nd de la Reuse d*Arolla, 232.
79. From Martigny over the Simplon to Intra on Lago
Maggiore 282
Col des Etablona, 283. — Mont Bonvin, 281. — Foreat of
Pfyn; lUgraben, 285. — Belalp^ Upper Aletach Glacier;
Sparrhom;. over the Beich-Paaa to the Lotachenthal,
286. — Excuraiona from Beriaal. Wasenhom, Bettlihorn,
and Bortelhom ; to Iselle by Diveglia ; Col di Valdentro,
287. — Schonhorn; Monte Leone. From Simplon to
Saaa; Boaabodeigoch ; Laquin^och; Sirvolten Pass;
Simeli Pass } Gamaer Joch ; Fletschhorn. From Gondo to
Saaa over the Zwischbergen Pass, 283, 289. — From Domo
d'Ossola over the Antrona Pass to Saaa, and over the
Antigine Pass to Mattmark, 290. — From Gravellona to
Streaa and to Orta, 291.
80. From the Rhone Glacier to Brleg. Eggishorn .... 291
Gerenthal ; Pizzo Rotondo. From Ulrichen to Airolo over
the Nufenen Pass; Loffelhom, 292. — Glacier ofFieaeh;
Eggishorn, 293. — Excursions from the Eggishorn ; Con-
cordia Hut; Gr. Aletachhom; Lotachenliiclce: from the
Eggiahom to the Rieder-Alp and Bel-Alp, 293, 294. —
From Fieach over the Albrun Pasa to Baeeno, or to the Toaa
Falla ; Binnenthal ; Ofenhorn, 294. — From Fieaoh to
.Baeeno over ib» Kriegalp Paaa or the Geisapfad Paaa,
and to Iselle over the Paaao del Boccareccio, 294| 295*
81 . From Ulrichen to Domo d'OsBola. Gries Pass. Falls
of the Tosa. Val Formazza 295
Viz Basodino. From the Tosa Falla to Airolo over the
8. Giacomo Paaa^ to Bignaaco over the Bocchetta di Val
Maggia, 296, 297. — From Andermatten to Cevio over
the Crlner Furka, 297.
82. Valleys of S. Valais, between Sion and Turtmann (Yal
d'H^rens, Vald'Anniviers, TurtmAnnVaUey). ... 297
i. From Sion through the Val d'Ht^rens to Evolena,
and over the Col de Torrent to the Val d'Anniviers 298
Mayena deSion. Val d'H^remence, 298. — Pic d'Arzinol;
Col de la Meina ; Mt. de TEtoile, 299. — Excuraiona from
AroUa ; Lac Bleu de Lucel ; Mont Collon ; EvSque ; Pigne
d'Arolla ; Denta de Veisivi ; Aig. de la Za ; Dent Perroc ;
SAVOY AND VALAIS. 237
Dent des Bouquetins, 300. — Cols de Collon, deZa-de-Zan,
and de Biedmatten ; Pas de Ch^vres. Col de Chermontane,
300. — Cols de Bertol, de TEvSque, du Mont Brule,
and de Valpelline, 301. — Ferpfeclej Bricolla. Cols du
Grand Cornier, de la Pointe de Bricolla, and d'H^rens,
301. — Col des Bouquetins; Dent Blanche; Grand Cor-
nier, 302. — Sasseneire ; Pas de Lona ; Bees de Bosson ;
Col de Sorebois, 802.
ii. From Sierre through the Val d'Annivlers to Zlnal . 303
From Sierre to St. Luc ; Illhorn, 303. — Alp de T AU^e ;
Alp d'Arpitetta; le Mountet; Roc Noir; Pointe d'Arpi-
tetta; Besso; Pigne de TAU^e; Bouquetin: Diablons;
Grand Cornier; Bothhorn. Col de TAll^e; Col de Cou-
ronne; Triftjocb, 304. — Col Durand; Morning Pass:
Schallijocb, 305.
Hi. St. Luc. Bella Tola. Oyer the Pass du Boeuf (or
the Meiden Pass) into the Turtmann Valley, and
over the Augstboid Pass to the Vispthal 305
From Turtmann to Gruben. Col des Diablons, 306. —
Pas de la Forcletta. Tbe Schwarzhorn. Jung Pass ; Barr
Pass; Brunneggjoch ; Biesjocb, 307.
83. From Visp to Zermatt, and over the Thtfodule Pass
to Chatillon 307
From Stalden to the Simplon over the Bistenen Pass.
308. — From Breil to Praray^ over the Col de Cour-
n^re; Ch&teau des Dames; Grand Tournalin, 310.
84. Zermatt and Environs 311
Glacier Excursions from the Riffelhaus ; Th^odule Pass ;
Breithom ; Cima di Jazzi ; Monte Rosa^ 313. — Schwarz-
thor; Zwillings-Pass ; Lysjoch; Felikioch; Sesia Pass;
Piode-Joch. New and Old Weissthor, 314. — Excursions
from Zermatt; Gorges de Gomer^ Gomer Glacier;
Schwarzsee ; Homli ; Staffel Alp ; TIte Blanche ; Findelen
Glacier; Mettelhom; Unter - Gabelhom ; Strahlhom;
Rimpfischhom ; Dom; Ober - Gabelhom ; Rothhom;
Weisshom ; Dent Blanche ; Dent d'Hdrens ; Matterhom,
314-316. — Glacier Passes from Zermatt to Zinal, Evo-
lena, Ghermontane, Valpellina, and Valtournanche, 316.
85. From Vogogna to Macugnaga, and over the Monte
Moro to Saas and Visp 316
Excursions from Macugnaga; Belvedere; Pedriolo-Alp ;
Pizzo Bianco; Monte Rosa; Weisethor, 318. ^ Stelli-
horn ; Schwarzberg-Weissthor ; Adler Pass; AUalin Pass,
319. — Fee ; Triftalp ; Mittaghom ; Egginerhom ; AUalin.
horn; Ulrichshorn; Baltrin; Stellihorn; Sonnighorn;
Latelhom ; Weissmies, 320. — Alphubeljoch ; Ried Pass ;
Nadeljoch; Domjoch; Mischabeljoch, 921.
86. From Macugnaga to Zermatt round Monte Rosa . . . 322
Turlo Pass; Col delle Loccie. Pile Alp; Corno Bianco.
CoUe de Moud and della Moanda, 322. — Col d'Olen ;
Gemsstein ; Col delle Piscie ; Col di Valdobbia, 323. —
Excursions from Gressoney: Cort Lys; Lintyhiitte,
Gnifettihiitte, Sellahutte, Vincent Pyramid. Lyskamm.
Castor, 323. — Col de Banzola. Col de Joux. Pointe
de Combetta. Bee de Frudifere, 323. — Betta Furca;
Col de Cun^az ; Val d'Ayas or Challant; Col des Cimes
Blanches; Grand' Cemetta, 324.
238
70. From Geneva by Culoz and Aix-les-Bains to
Chambiry, retoming by Annecy.
Railway to Aix-les-Bains (55V2 M.) in 3V2 hrs. (llfr. 30, 8fr.5, 6fr.
10 c), to ChamWry (64 M.) in 4 hrs. (12 fr. 75, 9fr. 60, 7fr. 5 c.), to Albert-
ville (937« M.) in 7 hrs. (18 fr. 70, 14 fr. 10, 10 fr. 35 c.) j from Aix-les-Bains
to Annecy (25 M.) in 1V2-2 hrs. (4 fr. 95, 3 fr. 65, 2 fr. 66 c) 5 from Annecy
to Annemasse (35 M.) in 2V3-3V4 hrs. (6 fr. 65, 6 fr., 3 fr. 65 c). Diligenck
between Albertville and (28 M.) Annecy daily. From Annemasse to Geneva
a tramway and omnibuses. — See also Baedeker't Midi de la Fi'aree^ 2nd
ed., 1886.
Geneva, see p. 198. 3 M. MeyriUy 6^/2 M. Satigny ; on the left
flows ihe Rhone. Near (81/2 M.) La Pleine we cross the valley of the
London. I272 M. Chancy-Pougny ; 14^2 M. CoUonges. The Rhone
here separates the steep slopes of the Mont Vuacke (SiiiQ from
the Jura chain. The lofty Fort de TKcliise (1387'), to the right,
guarding the entrance to France , was founded by the Dukes of
Savoy, extended by Yauban, destroyed by the Austrlans in 1814,
and rebuilt by the French ten years later. Beyond the short tunnel
under the fort we pass through the Tunnel du CrSdo, 2Y2 M. long,
and cross the deep valley of the Valserine by an imposing viaduct,
275 yds. long and 170' high.
21 M. Bellegarde (Buffet; H6t, de la Poate)] French ^douane'.
Above the confluence of the Valserine and the Rhone, about i/s M. from
the hotel, is. the so7called Perte.du Bhdno. Formerly, when the river
was low (19 ov. to Feb.), it disappeared entirely in a cleft in the rock for
about 100 paces, but the channel has recently been so much widened
by blasting that the water always remains visible. The water of the
Rhone is used as a motive power for machinery by the Compagnie
Hydraulique du Rhone. A conduit 820 yds. in length, and chiefly under
ground, is carried from the bed of the river above the Perte to the Vid-
serine, into which it falls a little above its influx into the Rhone. A
new manufacturing town is springing up here, and a railway now runs
through the valley of the Valserine to Nantva and Bourg.
FBOii B£LLBGAKDs TO BouvEKET (62V2 M.), railway in 3V4 hrs. Stations :
Valleiry; Viry; 15 M. Bt. Julien; 20 M. Boziey -Veyrier . at the N.W.
base of Mt. Sal^ve (p. 206). The Arve is then crossed to (24 M.) Awmvmum
(p. 245), the junction f(.r Annecy (p. 243), on the high-road to Chamonix
(tramway to Geneva, see p. 208)'. 28 M. Bl. Cergmt; 33 M. Bont-St, Didier
(ascent of the Voirons, see p. 208) 5 37 M. Perngnier; 43 M. ThwMm (p. 231);
49 M. Evian (p. 231); 52V2 H. LugHn; 56 M. Meilleriei 59Vs M. JSL Gingolph;
621/2 M. Bouveret (p. 232).
Four tunnels (1121, 917, 493, and 166 yds. in length respect-
ively). Beyond (28 M.) Pyrimont (with asphalt-mines near it) a
handsome viaduct crosses the Vezeronce. 3272^* Seyssel, an old town,
lies on both banks of the Rhone, which is crossed here by a double
suspension-bridge. The river, now navigable, flows through a broad
channel with numerous islands, and the valley expands.
4IV2M. Culoi (774'; Hot. FoUiet ; *Rail. Restaur.), at the base of
the Colomhier (5033'), is the junction for Lyons, Macon (Paris),
and Turin. Carriages generally changed, and a long halt.
The Mont-Genis train crosses the Rhone, and at (46 M.) Chin-
drieux reaches the N. end of the Lac dn Bonrget (7450> which is
10 M. long and 3 M. broad. To the right, on a wooded hill
AIX-LES-BAINS. 70. Route, 239
projecting into the lake, is the old ch&teau of Ch&tiUon. The train
skirts the rocky E. bank, passing through four tunnels. To the right
a pleasing view of the lake, the monastery of Haute-Combe, the
chliteau of Bonrdeau, and the Dent da Ghat (see below).
551/2 M. Jdz-lCB-Bains. — *Gkand HCtel d*Aix, Avenue de la
Garej Gb. Hotels de l''£ubop£, de l'Univers, des Aubassadeubs & dd
NoBD, and *H6t. Venat in tbe Kue du Casino; Grand Hotel de la
Galerie, between the Bue du Casino and the Place Centrale; Splen-
DiDE Hotel, finely situated above tbe Jardin Public. All these are of
the first class, with corresponding charges: R. , L. , dk A. 5-6, B. 11/2,
lunch 3, D. 5 fr. Slightly less expensive: Gb. Hot. des Bebgues,
Avenue de la Gare; Gb. Hot. du Globe and des Bains, Eue du Casino*;
Beausite, above the Jardin Public ; *Chateau-Dubiedx, BouI. des Cotes j
*H6t. Guilland et de la Poste , Place Centrale ; Hot. Laplace and db
Geneve, Bue du Casino ; Hot. de l''£tabliss£Ment Thebkal, by the Baths ;
Hot. Damesin & Continental, Rue de Chamb^ry; H3t. de la Poste,
Gebmain, Bossut, Gabin, du Pabc, etc. — Pemiont and Maisons Meu-
bldes also abound. — Restaurants: Dardel^ Place Centrale ; Gr. Cafi de la
Gare, etc.
Cab, per drive, 1-2 pers., i fr., 3-4 pers. 2fr. ; per hour with one
horse 3, with two horses 4 fr. — Voitdbes Publiques for excursions (to
Marlioz, Port Puer, etc.). Place Centrale.
Casinos. Cercte^ Eue du Casino, adm. 3fr. ; season-ticket 40, for
2 pers. 65 fr. — Villa des Jleurs^ Avenue de la Gare, similar.
English Chubcii Sebvice during the season.
AiX'leS'Bains (850'; pop. 4741), the Roman Aquae AUobrogum^
or Aquae Oratianae^ a famous watering-place, picturesquely situated,
is visited annually by upwards of 12,000 patients. It possesses warm
(113^ sulphur-springs, used for drinking and for baths. The large
Etablissement Thermal^ erected in 1854, is well fitted up. In front
of it rises the Arch of Campanus, a monument erected in the 3rd
or 4th cent. A. D., in the form of a triumphal arch, in memory of
T. Pomp. Campanus and his family. The eight niches contain the
urns of the persons whose names are recorded on the monument."
The well-preserved Chdteau (14th cent.), now the Hdtel-de-VUle^
contains a Museum of antiquities, chiefly from the lake-dwellinga
of the Lac du Bourget, and other curiosities (open daily 9-12 and
2-5 ; 5 c). The rallying-points of visitors are the sumptuous Cercle
or Casino J with its handsome saloons, and the Villa des Fleurs (see
above), with its pleasant garden, where concerts are frequently
given. Queen Victoria resided at the Villa Mottet during her visit
to Aix in April, 1885. — Omnibuses run from the Place Centrale
every 20 min. to (1 M.) Marlioz (In lOmin. ; there and back 60c.),
whlcii possesses cold sulphur-springs (with inhaling-chamber), a
chateau, and a park (restaurant).
ExGUBsiONS. Pleasant shady walks in the Pare, the Pi'omenade du
Oiffotj and the Avenue Marie. — The Lac du Bourget (p. 238) may
be reached either by the ^Boute du Lac**, leading to the (2 M.) Port de
Puer (steamboat-pier), or by the Avenue de Cornin, leading to the(lV4 M.)
Port de Cornin. On the bank of the lake extends the beautiful wooded
hill of Tresserve, 3 M. in length, with shady walks and fine views. At
the "N. end of the hill rises the Maison du Didble (villa and garden), and
on the W. side, on the bank of the lake, is the chateau of Bonport.
'^ HautecomDe« a Cistercian monastery on the N.W. bank of the lake,
240 BouU 70. CHAMB£RT. From ChomMry
at the foot of the Moni dn Ckat^ ia another interetting point. (Steamboat
thither several times a week^ trip round the lake on Sundays, allotting
an hour at Hautecomhe. Boat with two rowers to Hautecombe and back,
with one hour'^s stay, 4 fr. ; each hour more 1 V2 fr. ; to Bourdeau 5 fr. ;
a bargain should be made beforehand.) The abbey, which was the bnxial-
place of the Princes of Savoy until 1731, when the Superga near Turin
was chosen for that purpose, was destroyed during the French Revolution,
and handsomely rebuilt in 1824 by Charles Felix, King of Sardinia. The
church contains the monuments of Amadeus V., VI., VII., Humbert III.,
Louis I., Baron de Vaud, Jeuine de Montfort, Count Haymon, Boniface of
Savoy (Archbishop of Canterbury), the splendid mausoleum of Peter of Savoy,
Anna of Zahringen, etc. The view from the neighbouring tower of Fhare
de Oessen* has been described by Bousseau. About */i M. from the mon-
astery is the intermittent Fontaine des Merveillet. On the site of the old
Roman road a good high-road crosses the Moni du Chat. We combine a
visit to the monastery with a survey of the scenery by taking a boat from
Aix to Hautecombe, whence it should be sent 01^ to the chEteau of Bour-
deau^ at the S. end of the road over the Mont du Chat) after visiting the
monastery and the intermittent spring , we descend by a footpath to the
Mont du Chat road, which leads us to Bourdeau, and thence we return by
boat to Aix. — Farther to the 8., at the influx of the Zeius, lies the vil-
lage of Le Bourgett with a ruined castle and a church in the transitional
style, the choir of which contains fine basreliefs of the 13th cent. —
Ascent thence of the DetU du Chat 0304')) 4 hrs., by a good bridle-path ;
Splendid view of the Alps, including Mont Blanc.
To the K. of Atx, on the Geneva road, lies (IV2 l^O St. Simon^ with
a chalybeate spring ■, V^ ^' thence, in a romantic gorge, are the Cascades
ds Orisjf (adm. GO c). From St. Simon a good road leads to the K.E.
through the picturesque DiJlU des Conges to the (3Vs M.) Moulin de
Prime, and thence by Cusy to the C^Vs ^0 Orotte de Bange with its sub-
terranean lake (a drive from Aix of 5V3 hrs., there and back*, lights for
the grotto must be brought). — To the E. of Aix a pleasant walk by C/4 hr.)
Mouxy and the (IV4 hr.) Rocher de St. Victor with a chu>el, to the
(1V< hr., 31/2 hrs. from Aix) Montagne de la Cluse , commanding a beau-
tiful view. — To the S.E. (20 mln.) the Roeher du Eoi, once a Roman
quarry, with a fine view.
Fbok Aix-lbs-Baiks to Annect, 25 M., a branch-line (1V« hr.). The
train runs at first to the N. through the valley of the Si^os^ which ha*
worn a deep channel for itself, called the Gorges du 8%4rot (where a
small steamboat plies). 2*12 M. Qrisy-sur-Aix^ with a ruined castle and
a pretty waterfall, tifs M. Albens. Through an opening to the right
appear the Semnoz and the Toumette (p. 248). 10^/x M. Bloyt. At (13 M.)
Bumilly (1095'^ Poste; Restaur, Dueref^^ a little town of Roman origin, we
cross the Chiran. The train turns to the E. and enters the pretty valley
of the Fier. 17 M. Mareelku-Hauteville. We now traverse the wild and
romantic JM/IU du Fier (twelve bridges and two short tunnels). On the
left, near the end of the gorge, rises the oh&teau of Monfrottier^ of the
I4th-16th centuries. 20Vs M. Lovagny (restaur, at the station and at the
entrance to the gorge); VsM. to the E. are the * Gorges du Fier, a grand
ravine 276 yds. long, enclosed by limestone rocks nearly 300^ high, ren-
dered accessible by a wooden gallery (1 fr.). Beyond Lovagnv we obtain
a fine view, to the right, of the Parmelan, the Semnoz , and the Tour-
nette. Tunnel of 1270 yds. ; then a bridge across the Fier. 26 M. Annecpj
see p. 243.
As the train proceeds, the lake is concealed by the wooded hill
of Tresserve (see above). Fine Tlew to the right.
58 M. Viviers. To the left rises the Dent du Nivolet (51130.
64 M. Chambiry (883'; pop. 19,622; *H6t. de France, Qual
Nezin, near the Boulevards; *H6t. de V Europe, Rae d'ltalle, a
good way from the station; H6t. des Princes , Rue de Bolgne; H6t.
to QtMva, GHAMBERY. 70. SouU, 241
4€ la Paiz^ opposite the station), the capital of Sayoy, a handsome
looking town, lies on the lapid LeUae, On the promenade between
the railway and the town rises a large Fouwtain-Monumetkt^ adorned
with life-size elephants, in memory of Qeneral de Boigne (d. 1830}
who bequeathed to Chamb^ry, his native town, a fortune of 15 mil-
lion fr. amassed in the East Indies. Of the andent and loftily sit-
uated Chdteau of the counts and dukes of Savoy, erected in 1232,
now restored and occupied by the Prefecture, the square tower and
part of the fa^de belong to the original building. It contains small
archasologioal and natural history collections. The chapel (^Sainte
Chapelle') has an elegant late-Gothic choir. At the back of the
ch&teau is the Orand Jardin (reached by going to the left round
the building, through the gate, and up the avenue), a public pro-
menade with a terrace commanding a fine view. The Theatre is
richly decorated in the interior. Near it is the archiepiscopal Ca-
thedrdlj a Gothic edifice (14th and 15th cent.). The pleasing new
Hotel'de-Ville possesses a smaU picture-gallery. In front of the
Palais de Justice rises a bronze statue of Ant. Favre (d. 1624), a
famous jurist, erected in 1864.
Walks. To the K., above the town (10 min.), rise the RocMrs de
Lemenc, with a church in which Gen. de Boigne and Mme. de Warens,
Bousseau^s friend, are interred. Charming view. — To Buistan-Rond
(20 min.), a pleasant park; the (kucades de Jacob (}/% hr.); the chapel
of St. Safwtiin (V/^ hr.). — Bout du Monde (1 hr.), a rocky gorge at
the ba«e of the Dent du Klvolet, with a fine waterfall of the Doria. —
Let Charmette* Oh hr. ; adm. Vz ^Of a country-house once occupied by
Bousseau and Mme. de Warens (1736). — Challes (IV4 hr. ; omnibus from
Stat. Chamb^ry V2 hr.), with a sulphur-spring, a bath-house, and an old
chateau converted into a hotel and pension (good, but dear).
The ascent of the Dent du Nivolet (5113'; 4Vs-0 hrs.) is attractive and
free from difficulty. Boad for about 8 U. ; then a bridle-path nearly to
the top. Magnificent view.
Seyond Chamb^ry we traverse a picturesque district, passing
the Tuins of BSiie and CUgmn. The precipitous Mont Qraniet
(63589 on the right owes its peculiar form to a landslip in 1248,
which buried sixteen villages. 70 M. Chignin'leS'-Marches. 72 M.
MontnUlian (921'; Rail. Restaur.), junction for Qvenohlt. The
castle, on a hill, of which a few fragments only are left, long
served as a bulwark of Savoy against the French, but was destroyed
by louis XTV. in 1705. Pleasing survey of the valley of the
J9^rt^ which the train now ascends. 74^2 M. Cruet { 79 M. 8t.
Pierre d^Albigny, junction of the Mt. Genis Railway; the small
town lies 172^- to the N. On a projecting crag to the left stands
the ruined castle of Miolana, once a state-prison of Savoy, destroyed
during the French Revolution.
The Mont-Gbnis Bailwat quits the Is^re here and ascends to the right
in the Maurienne Valley^ watered by the Arc. Stations Chamoussei, Aigue-
belle, Epierre, La Chamhre^ 8t. Jean-de-Mavrienne^ St. Michel, La Praz, and
(46 M.) Modane. Then through the great Mont-Cenis Tunnel (TVs M. long)
to Bardonniehe and Turin (see Baedeker^t JIT. Italy).
The railway to Albertville keeps on the right bank of the Isftre.
Basdbxxh, Switzerland. 12th Edition. 16
242 BouU 70. UGINE. From Chambery
85 M. Origy^auT'Jshrej with Roman antiquities. On the left, Afon*
iaiUeur , with an old castle. On the opposite bank of the Isdre,
8U. H£Une'de9''MiUihre8 ^ with salt springs. 89 M. FrorUtneXy
whence a zoad leads to the N. over the Col de TanUi (2980'} to
(11 M.) Faverges (p. 243).
93 V2 M. AlbdrtYiUe (1181'; pop. 5086; H6t. MUUon, in the
market; H6t. dea Balanees, Grande Rue), a pleasant town, which
received its present name in 1835 in honour of King Charles
Albert of Sardinia, consists of two parts separated by the AHy: on
the right bank VHCpital, on the left the pietnresqae little old town
of Conflam^ with its pinnacled walls, overgrown with vegetation.
Fboh Albsbtvillb to MoCtibbs-£K-Tabbntai8b , 17 M., diligence
3 times daily in 3 hrs. (SVs fr. } railway in coarse of construction). The
road leads through the iMkre Valley, which gradually narrows and be-
comes grander as we ascend, by Tours and Cevitit, at the N.E. base of
the Tournetie (8050'), to (lO^/i M.) Feisaom-toui-Brianfon^ with the ruined
castle of Brianiont then (12 M.) Ifoire-Iktmtde'Bvianfon^ and by Aiffue-
blanche to (17 M.) Koutiert (1575*; 1969 inh. ; Bdt Vizioz; H6t. Bartholx)^
the ancient capital of the Tarentaiie^ the seat of a bishop, and named
after a monastery founded here in the 5th century. The treasury of the
cathedral is worth seeing. A little to the S., in the pretty valley of the
Doron , are the baths of O/4 M.) Saiin* and (3Vs M.) Bridu-lts-Bavnt. —
A road leads to the B. of Modtiers (diligence twice daily) through the
picturesque valley of the Is6re to (17 M .) Bourff'St. Maurice (p. 265).
Fboh Albbbtvillb to Beadpobt , I2V2 H. (diligence daily in 3 hrs. ;
2^2 fr.), by a road through the picturesque Doron Valletf. The little town
of Beaufort. (2625'; CTieval Blanc; Montblanc), prettily situated, is com-
manded by 'the ch&teau of La Salle. Thence through the Giite Valley to
the Col du Bonlwmme and oyer the Col dee Fours to Mottets^ 9-10 hrs.,
with guide (16 fr.*, comp. 262). — Fbom Beaupobt ovbe the Col Joli to
CoNTAuiNEs, 8 hrs., with guide, interesting on the whole. Carriage-road
through the Dorine Valley (or ValUe de Haute- Luce) ^ by Haute-Luce to
0 hrs.) Belleville^ thence bridle-path over the Ool Joli, lying to the S.
of Jfont JoU (p. 261), with a view of Mont Blanc, to (5 hrs.) Contamnet
(p. 261).
The Road to Annbct (28 M.) ascends to the N., on the right
bank of the Arly. To the left, on a steep hill, stands the church of
PaUud; on the right the Doron issues from the ValUe de Beaufort
(see above). Near (5 M.) XTgine (1510'; Soleil d'Or), a small town
(3000 inhab.) on the hill , the road quits the valley of the Arly,
and enters that of the Chaise to the left.
Fbox Uoikb to SiXLAHOHSB OB 8t. Gbbvais (8-9 hrs.). Road through
the picturesque valley of the Arly to (8 H.) Flomet (3008*; mt. des Ba.an-
ces), a village at the influx of the Arondine into the Arly. (Over the Col
des Aravis to St. Jean-de-Sixt, see p. 2i4.) On a rock stands the ruined
castle of the ancient barons of Faucigny. travellers in the reverse di-
rection have to undergo custom-house formalities here.) Then (7 U.) Mi-
give (3690'; Soleil), on the water-shed between the Isire and the Arve,
shortly beyond which, as we descend, we e^oy a superb view : opposite ns
towers the Aiguille de Varens (8831'), to the left lies the valley of the Arve
as far as Magland (p. 240) ; to the right rises the entire Mont Blanc chain, with
its glaciers and the summit. At 0 M.) Combloux the road divides . the
left branch leading to (S^/i M.) Sallanches , and the right to (41/2 tf 0 St.
Oervais (p. 246).
At Uglne the culture of the vine begins on the lower slopes
facing the S. Beyond Marlena the road quits the valley of the Chaise,
to Geneva. ANNECY. 70, Route, 243
and crosses the hardly perceptible watershed of the Eau Morte, which
we now follow. 71/2 M» Faverges (1699'; *H6t. de la Poste), with
its extensive old castle. (To Frontenex over the Col de Tamie^ see
p. 242.) We next reach (6 M.) Bout du Lac, a hamlet at the S.
end of the Lac d'Annecy (1463'; 9 M. long), on which a steamer
plies three times daily to Annecy in IV2 ^^•' ^ pleasant trip; on
the right rise the rocky pinnacles of the Toumette (see below).
On a promontory extending far into the lake, to the left, is the
prettily situated (3 M.) Chdteau Duingt (1476'). On the opposite
bank lie Talloirea , the birthplace of BerthoUet (see below) , and
Menthofiy with sulphur-springs and an old chateau in which St.
B'iernard was born (p. 277). To the left lies Sevrier, at the foot of
the long Semnoz (see below). We next reach (6V2 M.) —
28 M. Annecy (1476'; pop. 11,334; Or.^Hdt, Verdun, near
the lake, dear; *0r,'H6U dk Angletette i Aisgle), a picturesque, old-
fashioned town, the capital of the department of Haute-Savoie, with
linen-manufaetoriefl. In the 12th cent, it was the capital of the
Duchy of OeneYois, and was named Anneciacum Novum, to distin-
guish it from Anneciacum Vetua^, which lay a little to the N.E., on
the slope of a hill, where numerous Roman relics have been found.
The lofty old Chdteau is now a barrack. Gothic Cathedral, with a
modem tower, and an an(^ent episcopal Palace, In the chapel of
the monastery de la Visitation repose St. Francis de Sales (d. 1622)
and St. Johanna of Chantal (d. 1641). The ProTntnade du Pdquier
on the lake affords a pleasant walk and Hue view. Iii the middle
of it rises the Prifeciure, in front of which stands a monument to
the engineer SommeiUer, one of the constructors of the Mont-Oenis
Tunnel. On the other side of the canal issuing from the lake lies
the Jardin Public, with shady avenues, adorned with a bronze sta-
tue of the famous diemist BerthoUet (d. 1822), by Marochetti. In
the vicinity is the H^el^e'VUle, containing a- small museum, with
a handsome fountain In front of it. Annecy, with .its beautiful en-
virons, is recommended as a pleasant resting-plaoe.
ExcuBsiONS. The Bemnos (559O0, to the S. of Annecy, a fine point,
easy (5 hrs.). We take the Albertville road on the S. bank of the lake
to (3 H.) a4vr'er. and ascend by a road to the right to the (T1/2 M.) Col
de Leschavx (9028'); bridle-path thence to the top in 1 hr. (Hdt. Cret du
Chdtillonf mountain-railway projected). Beautiful view. — The Parmelan
(0018') , to the N. of Annecy , is chiefly - interesting on account of its gro-
tesque rock -formations. Road by Sur-les-Bois- and Dingy St. Clair to
(9 M.; carr. in 2V3 hrs., 15 fr.) La Blonniire; thence (guide not necessary
for experts) by the Chalet Chapuis and the Ovand Montoir to the top in
2>/2-3 hrs. (admirable panorama). — Ascent of the ** Toumette (7738), the
fine mountain to the S.E. of Annecy, attractive but difficult (only for ex-
perts; guide 10 fr.). Road to (9 M.) TMnes (see below), thence- with
guide, Dy Belchamp and the Cha^tU du Rosatri^ in 51/2 hrs. to the top.
uperb view, especially of the Mont Blanc group.
Railway to AiX'^ea-Baint, see p. 240. Near Lovagny, the first station
(11 min.), are the interesting "Gorges du Fier (p. 240).
Fbok Aknbct by Gband BoBi^AifD to SciONZiEB, 12 hra., attractive.
A carriage road runs by Veyrier and Alex to (4 hrs.) Th6nes (2054'; H6t.
Cu'llery\ a little town prettily situated at the confluence of the Nom and
16*
244 Route 70. LA ROCHE.
the Fier (aBeent of the Toumette, p. 243). Thence it aacends the valley
of the Kom to the E. , passing Les Villards to (IV4 hr.) St. Jean de Sixt
(3319'; to Sallanches, see below), beyond which it divides. The left
branch runs by Petit-Bomand to (iVz hrs.) Bonneville (p. 245); the right
leads through (V2 br.) Grand Bomand (9068'; /m»), a considerable village
on the Bome^ to (l^/s hr.) Veney. From Venay a bridlepath ascends over
the Col dee Annee (5606') to (2 hrs.) Reposoir or Prolong (Inn), where it
joins the carriage-road leading through the picturesque Valley of Repoeoir
to (2 hrs.) Sdontier (p. 245). — Fkom Aknkct ov£b ths Col dss Asavis
TO Sallanches, 15 hrs., attractive. To (5>/4 hrs.) St. Jean de Sixt, see
above. Thence a carriage-road leads to the 8.E. in the valley of the r^om
to La Clfuaz and to the (2V2 brs.) Ool dea Aravia (4913*), which commands
a fine view of Mont Blanc From the Col a bridle-path descends to (V4
hr.) La Qiettaz (3640'; Hdt. des Aravis), whence another carriage-roiid
leads to (2 hrs.) Flwnet, on the road from TJgine (p. 242) to (4>/4 hrs.)
Sallanchee or St. Gercais. A shorter route is offered by a foot-path lead-
ing from La Oiettae over the Col JaiUei direct to (4 hrs.) SaUanches.
The Rail-way pbom Annect to Anneuasse traTones a tunnel,
crosses the Fier, and turns to the N. into the valley of the Fiimtre,
On the light rises the Parmelan (see above). 3 M. Prmgy-la-
CaiUe; 6 M. St. MaHin^Charvonnex ; 10 M. Groisy-^U^Plot, At
(1472 M.) Evirea (2592'; Buffet) beyond another tunnel and a
lofty viaduct, the line reaches its highest point. Travellers in the
opposite direction are subjected to the formalities of the custom-
house here, as that part of the Department of Haute-Savoie which
adjoins Switzerland is exempt from French duties (see below).
Two tunnels, the first 1320 yds. long.
The train now descends, making a long bend to the £., and
enters the valley of the ArvCy of which it affords a beautiful survey.
Beyond (20 M.) 8t, Laurent is a viaduct 157' high. — 23V2 M.
La Boehe-aur-Foron (1804'; Grolx Blanche), a village on theForon,
a tributary of the Arve. (To Bonneville, see p. 245.) To the left
appear the Salhves (p. 208). 26 M. Chevrier; 28 M. Beignier.
Then a handsome viaduct over the Viaison, Beyond (31Y2 ^0
Monnetier^Momex (p. 208) the line joins the Bellegarde and Bou-
veret Railway (p. 238) and crosses the Arve. 35 M. Annemaase,
and thence to Geneva, see below.
71. From Geneva to Chamoniz.
531/slI. D1X.1GBMGB (tliree different vehicles, from Qrand-Quai 10, 26,
and 28) in SVs hrs., incl. halt of </< hr. for dinner at SaUanches, returning
in TVs hrs (^ban<|uette' 21 , there and back 36 fr.). The extra carriages
used when the diligence is full take 2 hrs. longer. It is advisable to se*
cure seats in advance (chief office, Grand Qua! 10), and before paying the
fare, the traveller should see the seat he is to get. The time at which
the traveller intends to return should also be announced at once in Char
moniz.
Cabbiaoes (p. 200). For a carriage and pair with four seats the fare
usually demanded is 100 fr. (there and back in 3 days, 160 fr.), but by
applying to the carriage-owner in person the traveller may generally obtain
one for 70-80fr. . ^^ ^
Geneva, see p. 198. The road to Annemasse passes a succession
f villas and well-kept gardens extending to the large village of
BONNEVILLE. 71. BouU. 245
(2V4MO Chene (1384'). The Foron Beparates Geneva from Savoy.
At (274 M.) ijmemaMe (1427' ; H6ta de la Qare, Hdtel de la Faix^
at the statiOB ; National, in the village), the first French village,
a station on the Bellegaidfi and Bonveret line (p. 238), and junc-
tion for Anneey (p. 244) , luggage is not examined , as that part
of Savoy which adjoins Switzerland is exempt from French customs.
To the right rises the chStteau of Etranibttre , with its fonr towers,
at the base of the PeHi-8aih)ej and beyond it lies Momex (p. 208).
We approach the Arve, and cross the Menoge by a handsome bridge.
8 M. AHhaz.
The scenery improves. In the background rises the pyramidal
M6le (6130'). Beyond (5 M.) Nangy, on a pine-clad knoll to the
right stands the Chdteau de Pkrre. Near (27] M.) Contamines-
sur-Arve lies the chateau of FiUy, on the hill-side to the left;
beyond the village, on a lofty rock, stands the ruined castle of
Faueigny, Then (5 M.) —
I68/4M. BoiueYille (1457'; pop. 2271; Couronnt; Balanees),
a little town of some importance, picturesquely situated in a fertile
valley, commanded by the rugged limestone rocks of the Pointt
d'ilndey (6165')on the right, and the slopes of the MdU (see above)
on the left. A handsome bridge crosses the Arve, on this side of
which, to the right, stands a monument to the Savoyards who fell
in the campaign of 1870-71. On the opposite bank rises a mon-
ument, 73' high, to King Charles Felix of Sardinia.
A road leads from Bonneville to the W. to (5 M.) La Roche (p. 244).
Another to the E. (diligence twice daily) by (5 M.) Marignier (where the
Giffre is crossed) and (4 M.) Chdiillon to (3 M.) Tan^ges, on the road from
Geneva and Annemasse to Sixt (p. 2S6).
The road traverses flat meadow-land , which is frequently in-
undated, and then enters a broad, fertile valley bounded by lofty
mountains. Opposite (4Y4 M.) Vbugry the Qiffre falls into the Arve.
3»/4 M. Scionzier lies at the entrance to the wild Reposoir Valley.
(From Scionzier to Anneey by Orand Bomand , see p. 244.) On
the hill to the left, on the road to Taninges (see above), is the castle
of ChdtiUon. We now cross the Arve to (I74 M.) —
26 M. Cluses (1591'; Edtel National; Union, mediocre and
dear), a smalltown, chiefly Inhabited by watchmakers. To the
left, near the entrance, an tcole d^Horiogerie, Beyond (3 M.)
Balme (1624'), in the bluish-yellow limestone precipice to the left,
750' above the road , is seen the entrance to the Orotte de Balme,
a stalactite-grotto hardly worth visiting (2 hrs. there and back ; 3 fr.
each pers.).
Near (I72M.) Magland is a spring by the road-side, on the left,
supposed by Saussure to descend from the small Lac de Flaine
(4695') on the hill above. On the right, farther on, rise the PoinU
d'Areu C8097') and the Pointe Fereie (9026' ; p. 2461 and on the
left, the bold precipices of the AiguUlt de Varens (8163'). The con-
spicuous cascade of Arpenas is imposing after rain.
246 B(mU71. SALLANOHES.
The Yalley expands. The road traverses a district ravaged by
torreuta of mud and d^ris. At the village of (61/2 M.} —
36 M. St. Hurtiii (Hot. du Monthlanc; H6t. des Grandes Alpes)
we suddenly obtain a superb ^Yiew of Mont Blanc, whose dazzling
peaks towering majestically at the head of the valley seem to anni-
hilate the intervening distance of 12^2 ^- T^^^ Aiguille du GotLter
appears first ; then, from right to left , the Dome du Goiter, Mont
Blanc itself, the Mont Maudit, Mont Blanc du Tacul, the Aiguille
du Midi, the Aiguille Verte, etc. — The road now divides. The
old road leads on the right bank of the Arve to Chhde and (8 M.)
Servoz (see below), while the new crosses the Arve by a handsome
bridge to —
36V2M. SaUaiLehM(178d'; HH, des Messageries; BeUeime),
where the diligences stop for dinner.
The Fointe Pereee (9026'), commanding a fine view of Mont Blanc,
may be ascended from this point over the Chalet dts Fours in b\-2 hrs.
(no difficulty for experts). — Route from Sallanches by Flumef to Alhert-
ville, see p. 242; to Anneep over the Col des Arttvis^ see p. 244.
The road, here uninteresting, next leads by Domanty to (5 M.)
Lt Fayet (I860' 5 Hot. de la Paix; Hot. des Alpes, etc.), by the
bridge over the Bon^Nant.
St. Oervais-les-Balna (2066'; ''JSCttl)^ a waiering'placa with sulphur^
springs, lies in the wooded ravine of Montjoiey V2 M. from the Chamonix
road, on the Bon-Nant ('l^anf being the name applied to all mountain-
streams in Savoy), which forms a waterfall at the back of the baths.
C Cascade de Cripin*). — A path leads in 20 min. from the baths to the
VilUge of St. Gervaia (2657'; Hot.: ^'du Mont JolU *du Moniblanc, de Geneve,
and several pensions), on the road to Contamines (p. 261), a health-resort,
prettily situated. (The village is 2 M. from Le Fayet by the carriage-
road.) — The Mont Jolt (8288') may be ascended without difficulty from
this point in 6 hrs. The descent may be made by St. Nicolas de Ve'roce
(in all 8 hrs. ; comp. p. 261).
Pedestrians may quit the diligence at Le Fayet and walk over the
Qol de la Fordas (5i05')» between the TSte-Jioire (5800'; not to be con-
founded with the Tete-Noire between Ctamonix and Martigny) and ike
Frarion (6460'), direct to Le Fouilly and Les Houches in 5-6 hrs. (guide de-
sirable, 6.fr.). A longer but more interesting route (6-7 fara.) is over the
Col de Voxa (p. 260).
From Le Fayet a road crosses the Arve to Ghjode and Servoz
(see above). The road to Chamonix on the left bank of the Arve
ascends gradually, with the torrent almost immediately below it^
passes through a cutting and enters the wooded valley of (8^/4 M.)
Le Chdtelard (tavern). Through the opening of the valley appear
the J[>6me du QoHlUt (p. 263) and the jagged Aiguille du Midi
(12,608^). Beyond the inn a short tunnel; the road then returns
to the Arve for a short distance.
A road diverges here to the left and crosses the Arve to (V2 M.) Ser-
ifox (Balances), whence we may visit (in 1 hr., there and back) the *(Jor-
tre> de la Diosas (adm. 1 fr.), a grand ravine, through which the Dioiat^
a torrent rising on the Buet, dashes in fine cascades. Easy access to the
gorge is afforded by a gallery, »/» 31. long, attached to the rocks. Visitors
should penetrate as far as the Gorge de Soiifrtet, the most imposing part,
with triple waterfall (adm. 1 fr.).
47 M. Lea Monties is an inn by the Pont Pilissier, over which
Ouidea,
CHAMONIX.
72. BouU. 247
the old road 'from Servoz comes to join ours. (From this point to
the Gorges de la Diosaz 26 min.) About 1/2 M. farther on, the old
road ascends to the right to Le Fouilly and Les Houehes (p. 260),
while the new road traverses the wild ravine of the Arve, crossing
the stream by the *Pont de Marie (fine view of the gorge) and again
higher up. The glaciers now gradually become visible, but owing
to the vastness of the mountains in which they are framed it is im-
possible at first to realise their extent. The first are the Olaciera de
Griaz and de Taconay; then the Qlaeier dea Bossons (p. 251) near
the village of that name, which, as it extends farthest into the valley,
is apparently the largest. A little above it the road crosses the Arve
for the last time by the Pont de Perralotaz, and 1 M. beyond it
reaches -^
531/2 M. Chamonix.
72. Chamonix and Environs.
Hotelg. *HdT. iMPfeBiAL, *H6t. Royal; at both, R., L., & A. 4-Bfr. and
upwards, B. iVsj D- 5 fr.*, *HdT. de Londbbs bt d'Axglstebre, similar
charges; *H6t. du Montblanc, R., L., A A. S'/aj I>. 41/2 fr. •, *"H6t.-Pen8.
CoTJTTBT , B., L., & A. 8Vs^ 1 !>• 4 fr. ; *H6t. dbs Alpbs , same charges,
pens. &-9 fr. ; ^Hot. ee l'Umion 4i dbs Clubs Alpins, with its d^pendance
Paleds de CrUtal^ R. from 3, D. 47% fr. — Unpretending: ^HdTBL Beau-
Site, at the S. end of the village, R. 2, D. 31/2 fr. ; '^HdxBL db Fbancb, R.
from 2, pena. 5 fr. ; *H6t. Suisse; *H6t.-Pbn8. de la Poste; Hdx. de la
Paix, well spoken of; *Cboix Blanche; Balances; Reunion dbs Amis;
DE LA Tbbbasse, with restaurant. — Cafi Carrier.
G-nides. A guide is unnecessary for the Monienvert, the Flig^re^ the
Briventy and the Pierre Pointue. The paths are so minutely described in the
following pages that they can hardly be mistaken, while opportunities of
asking the way are also frequent. Visitors to the Chapeau need only
engage a guide for the passage of the Her de Glace to or from the Chapeau
(p. 5SO). The following extract is from the ^Riglement et Tarif des Guides
de Chamonix*. Travellers are provided with guides by the Guide-Che/^ who
is bound to employ each in turn, the traveller having no choice except in
these cases : (1) When a .course extraordinaire (see below) is contemplated ;
(2) When an excursion is made for scientific purposes; (3) When the
traveller speaks no French, and the guide is unacquainted with the lan-
guage of the traveller; (4) When travellers have previously employed a
certain guide and desire to re-engage the same ; (5) When ladies travelling
alone wish to engage a particular guide ; (6) When the traveller is a member
of an Alpine club.
The excursions are divided into Courses Ordinaires and Courses Extra*
ordinaires. A complete tariff may be had of the Ouide-Chef.
CouBSES Obdinaibes:
Glacier des Bossons and back
Montenvert and back . . .
Montenvert, Mer de Glace, Cha-
peau, and back
Montenvert, Mer de Glace,
Chapeau, Flegere, and back
in one day
Fl^&re and back
Pierre Pointue 8; including
the Aiguille de la Tour or
5fr.
6fr.
9fr.
12 fr.
6fr.
Pierre a TEchelle 9 ; or with
the Plan de TAiguille . . 10 fr.
Col de Balme 8 ; back by TSte
Noire 9; or by Barberine,
Incl. Cascades de Barberine
and de B^rard in one day 9,
in two days 12fr.
Ascent of Buet and down to
Sixt, incl. return-fee, in one
day 23, in tufO days . . . 28 fr.
A
24S S(mU72.
GHAMONIX. Points of Interest,
Martigny by the Col de Bftlme
or Tfite-Noire, or to Ver-
nayaz by Salvan . . . . 12 fr.
Br^vent by Planpras 10, by
the Fl^gere and down by
Planpraz 12 fr.
Br^vent by Plan Bel Achat
10, Lac du Br^vent 9, Plan
Bel Achat 9fr.
Jardin, and back by Chapeau
14^ with night on Montan-
Tert 16fr.
Xer de Glace d'Argentiere 8,.
to the ^glacier-circua' in one'
day 12, in two days . . .
Sixt by the Brdvent and Col
d''Antflme in one day (incl.
return-fee)
Sixt by Servoz and Col d^An-
terne
PaTillon de Bellevue, Col de
Yoza, or Prarion ....
Contamines by the Col du
Tricot
CoUSaES JBXTRAOSDINAIKXS :
Mont Blanc 100 fr.
GrandB Mulets and back in one
day 20, in two days 30, Grand
Plateau 80, Ddme du Godter
60, Corridor or Bosses du
Dromadaire 70 fr.
Counnayeur by the Col de la
BrenvaSO ^ Cols de Trelatgte,
d*Argentiere , de Pierre-Jo-
seph, des Hirondelles 60 j Cols
du G^ant, de Triolet,du Char-
donnet
Aiguille Verte 100, Grandes
Jorasses 80, Aig. d'Argen-
tiire and du Chardonnet 66,
Aig. du Midi 60, Aig. du
Tour
Glacier • excursions on the
Mont Blanc chain, above the
zone of vegetation, per day
18 fr.
18 fr.
18 fr.
8fr.
15 fr.
50 fr.
50 fr.
lOfr.
The guides are bound on the 'courses ordinaires* to carry ba^age not
exceeding 24 lbs. ; on the 'courses extraordinaires', 14 lbs. only. — The
following are recommended for difficult expeditions : FranfoU Simond^ Mich.
Charlet; J*an Bapt. Crot; Ed. and Auff. Cupelin; Franfoit, Henri, and
Michel Devowuoud; Mich. Dneroz; Frid, and M. FolHquet; Aug. and Alex.
Paccard; Alph.^ Michel and FrM. Payoi; Be». Bimon; Michel, JSim., and
Tob. Tairraz; A. Toumier.
Horses and Moles. With the exception of the excursion to the Mon-
tenvert and Chapeau (9 fr.) , and, to we Montenvert for the purpose of
visiting the Jardin, and back to Chamonix in the evening (8 fr.), the same
charges are made as for the 'courses ordinaires'' of the guides, and as much
more is charged for the attendant.
The Collection of Pictures of M. Loppi, a talented painter of Alpine
scenery, situated behind the Hotel Royal, on the way to the Montenvers,
is worth seeing. Admission gratis.
English Churoh Service during the season.
Points of Interest. The traveller should devote three or four days at least
to Chamonix, but those who have one day only at command should ascend
the MoNTSNVEET (p. 248) in the morning (2Vs hrs.), cross the Meb de Glace
(p. 280) to the (1V« hr.) Chapeau (p. 250) , descend to (1 hr.) Lea Praa
(p. 251), ascend the PL^oftBE (p. 251; 2V2 hrs.)) and descend thence in
I'/i hr. to Chamonix. Early in the morning the path to the Montenvert
is in shade, in the afternoon that to the Fl^^re at least partly so \ and by
this arrangement we reach the Flegere at the time when the light is
most favourable for the view of Mont Blanc. For this excursion a guide
(to be found on the Montenvert) is necessary for the Mer de Glace only.
Riders send their mules round from Montenvert to Les Tines or the Chapeau
to meet them. The excursion to the Fl^^re alone takes 5 hrs., and that to
the Montenvert or the Chapeau about the same time. Those who come
from the E., and have spent the night at ArgenHhre, should leave the road
near Lavaneher (p. 256) and proceed by the Chapeau , the Mer de Glace
(comp., however, p. 260) and Montenvert to Chamonix from La Joux
(p. 256), on the right bank of the Arve ; but the path is bad and unsuitable
for riding, and cannot be found without a guide (boy 1-lVx fr.).
On a cloudy afternoon, when the views from the heights are concealed,
he Glacier deb Bossons (p. 251) is the best object for a walk (there and
ack 3 hrs.). — To the Cascade de Blaiti^re, on the hill-side to the B. of
J.
r. '
r.
Montenvtrt. CHAMONIX. 72. Route. 249
Cbamonix, Vs ^^' (hardly worth seeing ; adm. V2 f'0> — 7o the Payxllon
DE LA Pi£SBE PoiNTUE fp. 252) and back, 5-6 hrs. ; or, including the Aiguille
de la Tour and Pierre a rEchelle, a whole day. — To the Jabdik (p. 250)
from the Montenvert fwhere the night is spent) and back, 7-8 hrs. (from
Chamonix and back 11-12 hrs. ; guide necessary). — Ascent of the BaivsNT
(p. 251) and back, 7 hrs. \ ascent or descent by the Fl^g^re 2 hrs. more.
The ♦Valley of Cliamoniz (3445'-, pop. about 4000), or Cha-
mounyj 12 M. long, V2 M. wide, watered by the Arve^ runs from
N.E. to S.W., from the Col de Balme to Les Houches. It is bounded
on the S.E. by the Mont Blanc chain, with its huge ice-cataracts, the
Olacier du Tour, d'Argentieret des Bois (Mer de Olace), and des Bos-
sons; and on the N.W. by the Aiguilles Rouges and the Brivent.
A Benedictine priory first brought the valley into cultivation at the g
beginning of the 12th cent., but the reputation of the inhabitants was for I
a longperiod so bad that when St. Francis de 8ale$^ Bishop of Geneva \
(1602-22), visited the then pathless wilds on foot, this was considered an \
act of the utmost temerity. The valley became better known in 1743,
when the celebrated traveller Pococke and a Hr. Wyndham visited and I
explored it in all directions, and published their observationB in the Mer- ^
cure Suisse. Curiosity and enterprise were further stimulated by the publi- i
cations of the Genevese naturalists de Saussure, de Luc , Bourrit , Pictet, I
and others. Since that time Chamonix has become a great centre of at- |
traction for travellers, especially English, American, and French, and is
visited by upwards of 15,000 annually. It is inferior to the Bernese Ober- '
land in picturesqueness of scenery , but superior in the grandeur of its
glaciers, in which respect it has no rival but Zermatt.
In front of the H6tel Royal, where the route to Mont Blanc (to j
the right) diverges from that to the Mer de Glace (to the left), rises I
the *SaiiMUxe Monument, unveiled in August, 1887, on the cen- j
tenary of the first ascent of Mont Blanc, and consisting of a bronze ]
group (by Salmson of Q-eneva) on a granite pedestal , representing
Saussure conducted by Balmat (p. 253). Another small menu- t
ment to Balmat stands in front of the church. \
The ^Montenvert, or Montanvert (6303' ; 2^2 ^^s- i S^lde un- '
necessary), an eminence on the E. side of the valley, is visited for !
the sake of the view it affords of the vast 'sea of ice which fills the
highest gorges of the Mont Blanc chain in three branches (Olacier
du Qiant or du Taeul, Olacier de Leschaux, and Olacier de Ta-
llfre), and which descends Into the valley in a huge stream of ice,
about 4^2^- loi^S and 1/2-174^* broad, called the Mer de Olaee , ^
above the Montenvert, and the Olacier des Bois below it. The bridle-
path leads to the left by the H6tel Royal, passes the little English
church, and crosses the meadows (to the left of the cemetery-wall) to
the (74 hr.) houses of Les MouiUes. We now ascend through pine-
wood to the right (again turning to the right after ^4 hr.), past the
Chalets desPlanards, to (Ihr.) Lc CaiW^t (4880' ; auberge), a spring
by the wayside. Farther on (10 min.), a bridle-path to the left de-
scends to Les Bois (p. 250). Our path ascends gradually through
wood to the (1 hr.) *H6tel du Montenvert (R., L., & A. 4, B. 2, D.
41/2 fr.), at the top of the hill, commanding the *Mer de Olace and
the mountains around it : opposite us rises the huge Aiguille duDru
(12,5179 ; to the left of it are the snow-clad ilt'^wiHe y«ree (13,540')
.1
250 Route 72. CHAMONIX. Chapeau.
and the lower Aig. du Bochard (8766') , to the right the Aig. du
Jtfoinc(ll,214') ; farther distant are the Grandes Jorasses (13,800'),
the Mont MalUt (13,0860, and the Aig. du Q£ant (13,1570; and
immediately behind us tower the AiguiUeB de Charmot (11,2940
and de BlaitUre (11,5960-
From the Montenvers travellers usually cross the Ker de Olace
to the (1^2 ^r-) Chapeau^ opposite. A path descends the left lateral
moraine to (^^ hr.) the glacier (where guides are generally to be
found at the hut; woollen socks to prevent slipping, 1 fr.). The
passage of the glacier (10-15 min.; guide, unnecessary for the ex-
perienced, 2^/2fT.j or to the Chapeau 5fr.) presents no difficulty.
At one point, where the path leads between crevasses, steps are
hewn in the ice (fee). On the opposite side we ascend over loose
stones and d^ris to the (Y4 hr.) top of the right lateral moraine
(refreshmts.), skirting which we then descend by a narrow path to
the ^Mauvai8JPcu*y a steep rock, where the path is hewn In steps and
flanked with iron rods attached to the rocks, and the (40 mln.) Cha-
peau. Guides for travellers making this excursion in the reverse
direction are not always to be found at the Chapeau ; If required,
they should be brought firom Chamonlx (from the H6t. du Mauvals
Pas at Lavancher, 6 fr. , see below).
The *Cluipean (5082'; auberge), a projecting rock on the N.E.
side of the Glacier des Bois, at the base of the AiguUle dfU Boehard
(87660; is considerably lower than the Montanvert, but fiommands
an excellent survey of the ice-fall of the Glacier des Bois and the
Chamonlx YaUey. In the background Mont Mallet (13,0860 and
the Aiguille du Oiant (13,1570 ; to the right the Aiguilles de Char"
mo« (11,2940, de Biai«ir€ (11,5960, and d« Afidi (12,6100, ^^
D6me du GoiUer (14,2100, ^^^ t^o ^Uf- du GoUter (12,7100-
A bridle-path descends the moraine from the Chapeau, In view
of the ice-pinnacles of the Glacier des Bois and the Aiguille
du Dru , and then through pine-wood. After 25 min. it divides :
to the right to (V4 hr.) Lavancher (*H6t. du Mauvaifl Pas ; p. 256),
to the left to (V4 hr.) Lea Tinee (p. 256). A shorter path , but
rough at places , and unfit for riding, diverges 5 min. above this
bifurcation (20 mln. from the Chapeau) to the left, and descends the
moraine (passing the source of the Aiveyron below on the left) to
Les Boie and (40 mln.) Les Prat (see below). — The Source of the
Arveyron (1 hr. from Chamonlx, road as far as Lee Bote) is not now
worth visiting owing to the retrogression of the Glacier des Bois.
Tbe *'Jaidiii (9144'; guide necessary, p. 248) is a triangular rook rising
from the midst of the Glacier de Tali/re ^ and walled in by moraines.
Aronnd a spring in the midst of this oasis Alpine flowers bloom in August.
From the Montenvers, where the night is passed, we skirt the somewhat
dizzy rocks of Let Fonts to the right and traverse the moraine to the AiHfle;
here we take to the crevassed Mer de Glace, and ascend it for 2V2-3 hrs.
to the foot of the Siraa de Tal^re. We now turn to the right, ascend
past the Pierre d Bdranger, on the 8. side of the S^racs (*/4-i hr. •, a
wooden hut halfway up) , and cross the Tal^fre Glacier to the (25 min.)
Jardin. This excursion makes us acquainted with the grand icy wilds of
tJ
GlacUr de$ Bossons, GHAMONIX. 72. Route. 251
the Mont Blanc group ; tboagh somewhat fatigoing, it presents no difflcalty
to good walkers, and is even undertaken by ladies. Froyisions necessary.
The *FlighTe (5925'; ascent from Chamonix 3, descent 2 hrs.),
to the N. of Chamonix, is a buttress of the AiguiUe de la Floria
(9690') , one of the highest peaks of the AigttUlea Rouges. We fol-
low the Argenti^re road to (1^2 M.)'Lcs Chdbles. The direct foot-
path diverges to the left on this side of the Arve bridge , leading in
12 min. through pastures to the foot of the mountain, where the
ascent begins. (The bridle-route, a few minutes longer, crosses the
Arve to Les Praz, after 10 mln. diverges to the left by a small pine-
copse, crosses the Arve and is joined by the path just mentioned.)
We' now ascend the stony slope in long zigzags. After 35 mln. we
enter the wood to the fight, pass (35 min.) the CJtalet des Praz (au-
berge) , and In 1 hr. more reach the Croix de la Fleglre (Couttet's
Inn, well spoken of, lunch 3^2 » pens. 6-6 fr.). The *Vlew
(comp. Panorama) embraces the entire chain of Mont Blanc , from
the Col de Balme to the Glacier des Bossons and beyond It. Exactly
opposite us lies the basin of the Glacier des Bois (Mer de Glace) ^ en-
closed by the sharply defined Aiguilles : to the left the Aig. du Dm
and the huge snow-clad Aig. Verte; to the right the Aig. de Char-
mozj de Blaitihrej du Plan, and du Midi. The summit of Mont Blanc
Is also distinctly seen, but is less striking than the lower peaks owing
to its greater distance. The jagged pinnacles of the Aiguilles Rouges
also present a singular appearance. Evening light most favourable.
From the Fleglre the hridle-path continues to (1 hr.) the Chalet de la
Floria^ from which the Aiguille de la Floria (9686'), affording a magni-
ficent view to the W. as far as the Lake of Geneva, may be ascended,
with guide, in 3 hrs.
The ♦BrAvent (8274'), the S.W. prolongation of the Aiguilles
Rouges, affords a similar but finer view: While from the Fl^ggre the
Mer de Glace and the Aiguille Verte are the chief features , Mont
Blanc is here revealed in all Its grandeur ; to the right of the Buet
and the Aiguilles Rouges we also see the Bernese Alps, and to the
S.W. the Alps of the Dauphintf. The new bridle-path (41/2 lirs.)
leads from Chamonix to the W., passing the hamlets of La Mola
and Les Mossonsj and ascends through wood to (1 Y2 ^'0 Plan-Naehat
(4833' ; anberge), an admirable point of view ; and then in numer-
ous zigzags to the (l^/^hr.) Plan Bel Achat (io276^; restaur, with beds,
dear) , on a saddle to the S.W. of the summit. Thence to the top,
passing the sombre little Lac du Brivent, VU hr. more.
Or we may ascend the *Chemin Huletier de Chamonix a SLxf (p. 254)
to (3 hrs.) Planpraz ; then mount rather steeply to the left , and lastly
through a rocky gully {la Cheminie, provided with bars to assist climbers
but, especially for the descent, recommanded only to experts) to the (1 V4 hr.)
summit. — The Br^vent may also be combined with the Fl^gere. The 'Eoute
de Planpraz', a well-defined path, diverges to the right from tile Fl^g^re
path, about 20 min. below the Croix de la Fl^g^re, and follows the slope of
the mountain, in full view of the Mont Blanc chain, passing the Chalet* de
Charlanox halfway, to the (2 hrs.) inn of Planpraz (p. 264), which is visible
from the Fl^g^re
To the Glacier del BosBons an interesting walk (S hrs. there
252 BouU72. CHAMONIX. Mont mane.
and bftck; gnlde necessary for crossing the glacier, from Ohamonix
6, from the chalet on the left side of the glacier 2 fr. ; woollen
socks to prevent slipping, 1 fr.). On the left bank of the Arve we
pass the hamlets of Le Prat Conduit^ Lea BaratSj and (by the upper
path, to the left) Les Tsoura ; here we torn to the left, ascend through
wood on the right bank of the brook to the (25 min.) Cascade du
Dard (auberge) , a fine double fall, and then cross the broad stony
bed of the Nant des PHerins. (After 5 min. the path to the Pierre
Pointue diverges to the left; see below.) Beyond two more brooks
we reach the (^2 ^^0 ^Ig^ moraine of the Olacier des Bossons , and
cross the glacier in about ^4 ^r. to the Pavilion Fonciere (auberge)
on the left moraine. Fine view of the huge glacier, which has be-
gun to advance of late, overshadowed by the Mont Blanc du Tacul
(13,9430. On the left rise the Aiguilles du Midi (12,6100 and de
Blaitihre (11,5960- ^ '^^sit to the grotto hewn in the glacier, 85 yds.
long , is interesting (adm. and lights 1^2 ^^O* ^^ descend by Les
Bossons to the Pont de Perralotaz (p. 247), and return to Cha-
monix by the high-road on the right bank of the Arve.
The *Favillon de la Pierre Pointiie (67220 is another favour-
ite point (bridle-path, 2^^-^ hrs.; horse 8fr. ; guide unnecessary).
Beyond the bridge across the Nant des Pllerins (V2 hr.; see above)
we diverge to the left and ascend in zigzags on the side of a wild val>
ley, through which the Nant Blanc dashes over rocks, to the (1 hr.)
Chalet de la Para (52660. Then through wood and pastures to the
(I1/4 hr.) Pavilion de la Pierre Pointue (Restaur., lunch 3Y2 ^^0? ^^
the brink of the huge Glacier des Bossons, with its beautiful ice-fall.
Opposite, apparently quite near, rise Mont Blanc, tiie D6me du Gofiter,
the Aiguille du Goiter, etc.; also a superb view to the N. and W.
An interesting point is the Aiguill« do la Tour, which commands the
best survey of the Glacier des Bossons (1 hr. , guide desirable; ascend
to the left by the payilion). — The Piorre k rEohoUe (791(y) is another
fine point (iV^ hr. ; guide advisable). The narrow path (route to Mont
Blanc, see below) leads by the pavilion to the right, round an angle of
rock, and ascends to the brink of the Glacier des Bossons (where falling
stones are sometimes dangerous). Admirable view of the riven ice-masses
of the glacier : above them the Aiguille du Godter, the Borne du Goilter,
the Bosses du Dromadaire, and the highest peak of Mont Blanc ; in the
foreground are the Grands MuleU^ 2V2 hrs. distant (guide necessary). —
A pleasant way back from the Pierre Pointue is by the Han de l*Aigixille
(IVs hr.; no defined path, guide advisable), over grassy slopes and the
moraine of the Olacier des PHerins. We then ascend a little to the Plan
de VAiguille^ or La Tapiaz (74870i lying ftt the foot of the pinnacles of
the Aiguille du Plan (12,053') and the Aiguille du Midi (12,6100. Superb view
of the valley of Chamonix, with the Bernese Oberland and Dauphin^ Mts.
in the distance. We descend by the Chalets sur le Rocker to Tsours (p. 252)
and (2 hrs.) Chamonix.
Mont Blanc (15,7309, the monarch of European mountains
(Monte Rosa 15,366', Finsteraarhorn 14,026', Ortler 12,812'; the
Pic de Ntfthou, the highest of the Pyrenees, lljlTOQ, which since
1860 has formed the boundary between France and Italy, is composed
chiefly of Alpine granite or protogine. It was ascended for the first
Col du Geant. GHAMONIX. 7^. RawU. 253
time in 1786 by the ^ide Jacques B»lmat, and by Dr. Paccard tbe
same year. In 1787 the ascent was made by the naturalist H. B,
de Saussure, with eighteen guides , and described by him with his
yaluable scientific observations; in 1825 it was accomplished by Dr.
E. Clarke and Captain Sherwill, and in 1827 by Mr, Auldjo. In
summer the ascent is now made almost daily, but travellers are caU'
tioned against attempting it in foggy or stormy weather , as fatal
accidents have not unfrequently occurred on the mountain. The
view from the summit is unsatisfactory. Owing to their great dis-
tance, all objects appear indistinct; even in the clearest weather
the outlines only of the great chains, the Swiss Alps, the Jura, and
the Apennines are distinguishable.
According to the regulations laid down by the authorities of Ghamo-
nix, one traveller ascending Mont Blanc requires two guides (100 fr. each)
and one porter (50 fr.), each additional member of the party one guide
more ; but for experienced mountaineers one guide and one porter suffice.
When the ^hotel biir on the Grands-Mulets and other items are added, the
minimum cost of the ascent usually comes to 220-250 fr. for one person. On
the first day travellers usually ascend by the Pavilion de la Pierre Potntue (see
above) to the (7hrs.) Oranda-mulets (10,007' ; Inn with 4 rooms ; bed 4, lunch
3, D. 6, Vin ordinaire 4V»fr.) ; on the second they proceed by the Petit-Plateau
to the (3 hrs.) Orand-Ptateau (12,900'), and, bearing to the right (the usual
route), ascend by the D6me du OoHter and the Bosses du Dromadaire (or
to the left by the Corridor, the Mur de la C6te^ and the PetiU-Mulets, 15,310')
to the summit in 3-4 hours. They descend the same day to the Grands-
Hulets, and on the third day regain Chamonix (or the whole descent
may be made on the second day). — Fboh St. Gekyais (p. 246), by the Col
de Voza (p. 260) , to the (8-10 hrs.) Aiguille du QoHter (12,710*) , where the
guides of St. Gervais have erected a hut (spend night)-, thence by the Ddme
du OoHter and the Bosses (see above) in 5-6 hrs. to the top. — From Cocb-
HATJCua (p. 264) 16 »8.; to the Pavilion du Monthlanc 2V2, Col du Oiant
Syz-i hrs.; thence over the Glacier du Oiant and through the ValUe Blanche
in 2V2 hrs. to the Cabane du Tacul (11,693'), at the S. base of the Aiguille
du Midi (iJSjSlO'), where the night is spent. Lastly a toilsome ascent of
7-8 hrs. on the ice-slopes of Mont Blanc du Tacul and Mont Maudit to the
Corridor and the summit. Another route leads from the Combal Lake
(p. 263) across the Glacier de Miage to the Cabane de VAiguille Grise
(l0,93HB') on the Rocher du Mont Blanc, 8 hrs, or to the Rifugio Qu'ntino Sella
0[2,136'), 9 hrs. from Courmayeur, whence the top is attained in 7-8 hrs.
The ascent over the Glacier du Brouillard is very difficult and hazardous.
— A most interesting excursion, free from danger, is the ascent of the
D6me du Gouter (14,210' ; see above), 4-4V2 hrs. from the Grands Mulets ;
guide from Chamonix 60 fr.
Tottr du Mont Blanc, see R. 75.
Fboh Chamonix to Codbmateub oveb the Col du G^ant, 15-16 hrs.,
a trying glacier-pass, but most interesting, and for adepts not difficult
(guide 50, porter 30 fr.). After a night at the H6tel du Montenvert (p. 249)
we traverse the upper part of the Mer de Olace and the Glacier du Tacul,
or du Giant, the jagged 'seracs' of which must sometime* be mounted by
ladders. On the right we pass the Mont Blanc du Tacul (13,943'), and on
the left the Aiguille or De»t du Gictnt (13159' ; first ascended by the brothers
Sella in 18^, and in about 6 hrs. reach the Col du CMant (11,033'), between
Les Flcmbeatue (11,700*) on the right and the Aiguilles Marbries (11,529*) on
the left, with two refuge-huts and splendid view. We then descend almost
perpendicular rocks on the S. side to the Pavilion du Montblanc or du
Fruitier (p. 264) and Courmayeur. — Other passes cross the Mont Blane
range from Chamonix to Courmayeur (all very difficult, and for tho«
rough adepts only) : the Ool de Triolet (12,162') at the head (E. end) of
254 BmgU72. SAMOENS.
the Gkteier d6 Tal^rty between the Aig. de TrMd and the Aiff. de TaU/re ;
the Ool de Fierre-Joaeph , to the S. of the Aiff. de Tali/re; the Col des
Hirondelles (13,452') between the Petites and the Grandes Jorattet ; the Col
de Kiage (11,076')) S- of the Aig. de Bionnauay (on the Italian side, 2hr8. be-
low the Col, a refage-hnt of the Italian Alpine Clab): and the Col do Trelateto
^. 261). — F&oJK ChjUionix to Oksi&ses over the Col d'Argentiere (11,565'),
20 hrs., very difficult; from the Pavilion de Lognan (p. 256) the Glacier
d*Argentiire is traversed to the col, l3ring to the S. of the Tour Noire
(12,606'), with a superb view; then a lone *nd haaardouB descent over the
Glacier de la Neuva to the Vol Ferret (p. 264). Somewhat less difficult, but
for adepts only : Col dn Chardonnet (10,9T90, between the Aig. d'Argentikre
and the Aig. du Chardimnet (descent over the Glacier de Saleinaz to Praz
de Fort, p. 264). Also the Col dn Tour (iO,9d2'): from the Col deBalme
to Orsiu^s 11-12 hrs. ; a toilsome ascent over the Glacier du Tour to the
pass on the S. side of the Aig. du Tour; descent across the Glacien du Trient
and dWmy to the Cabane cTOmy (8835')^ and through the Combe d*Omy to
Som la Prot (p. 265) and Ortikret (p. 276).
FbOX CHAKOim TO SiXT OVES THS COL DU Bb^VENT AKO THE COL
d''Ant£BKe , bridle-path, 10 hrs. (mule 18 fr., return-fee included; guide,
unnecessary in settled weather, or porter, 18 fr.). Comp. Map, p. 260. The
^Chemin Muletier de (}hamonix k Slzt* leads from the W. end of Uie village,
past the church, to the foot of the mountain, and ascends through wood in
windings to the (IVzhr.) Restaur, des Chahlette* (fine view). Farther on it qutis
the wood and zigzags up a barren slope to the (IVz hr.) chalets of Planpras
(6773'; Inn, dear; ascent of the Br^vent, see p. 251). To the Coldn Bre-
vent (8078') '/a ^^' niore. "We then descend a slope, carpeted with Alpine
plants, into the valley of the Diosaz (5413'), which (IV4 hr.) we cross by a
wooden bridge. [With a guide, the traveller may here turn to the right
and ascend by the chalets of Villp and the Col de Salenton (82T7') in 6 hrs.
to the summit of the Buet , see p. 256.] We now ascend to the left to
the (2 hrs.) •Col d'Anteme (742o'); magnificent retrospective view of
Mont Blanc. The path descends past the Lae d'Anteme, leaving the
Chalets d''Aateme below to the left , to the (2 hrs.) Chalets des Fonds (Al-
pine fare), near which is ^Eagle^s Kesf*, the sunu||er residence of Mr.
Wills. The bridle-path descends the picturesque ValWe des Fonds, watered
by a tributary of the Oifire (see below). Near (1 hr.) Salvagny, a fine cas-
cade on the left. Then (Vzhx.) Sizt (2483'; mui du Fer it Cheval, B. & L.
3, B. \}/%, D. 3 fr.). In spring, when the brooks are swollen by the melt-
ing snow, the neighbourhood of Sixt abounds in fine waterfalls, there
being no fewer than thirty in the upper part of the valley alone , called
from its shape ValUe du Fer it Cheval. In summer and autumn, however,
the number dwindles to five or six. Near Fond de la Combe, at the head of
the valley (3 hrs. from Sixt ; carriage-road) there is another waterfall in a
vault of snow , 100 paces long. [The above route, the most striking of all
the approaches to Mont Blanc, is far preferable in the reverse direction:
from Sixt to the Chalets des Fonds I'/i hr. ; a few min. farther the bridle-
path turns to the right and crosses the brook (the path to the left ascends
to the Col Lichaud, or Col des Fonds, p. 234); 3Vshrs. Col d^Anteme, at
the foot of which the path turns to the left (that to the right leads
to Servoz) ; 1 hr. bridge over the Diosaz ; 2 hrs. Col du Brivent ; 2 hrs.
Chamonix.\
Path from Sixt over the Col de Sagerou (7917') to Champi^ry (ascex&t
of Mont Buan), see p. 234. — The Pointe de Tenneverge (9780*), by the
Col de Tenneterge, in 9 hrs., is a difficult ascent, but commands a splen-
did view. — The Pointe Pelouse (8118'), ascended by the Lac de Gers in
6 hrs., presents no difficulty; fine view of Mont Blanc. The descent may
be made by the Desert de Plati and to Escaliers de Plati to St. Gertais
(p. 246), bv a dizzy path, recalling the Gemmi.
In the* valley of the Giffre, i^t M. below Sixt, lies the little town of
Bamofina (2490^; pop. 2540; i^d^ de la Posts; H6i. du Commerce, both unin-
viting). Fine view from the small chapel above the church (10 min.).
From Samoena we may proceed to the N., either to the left across the Col
LES PRAZ. 73. BouU. 255
de Jouplane (6683' ; inn), or to the right across the Chi de la GoUse (5483'),
to (4 hrs.) Morzine (Hot. du Chamois), and then descend the valley of the
Drance to Thonon on the Lake of Geneva (p. 231); or to the E. over the
Col de la Golise and Col de Coux (6825') to (6V2 hrs.) Champiry in the Val
d'llliez (p. 228); or to the W. hy omnibus through the valley of the GifTre
(daily in 7 hrs., fare 5fr.), by (iSVa M.) Taninges (whence a road leads to
Bonneville, p. 245), and (9 H.) Si. Jeotre^ to Annemasse and (21V2 M.) Oe-
tieva (Bue de Bive, 13). From Samoens at 4.30 a.m., from Geneva at 10a.m.
Fjboic Chamonix to Sixt bt the Mont Buet, interesting, but fatiguing,
13-14. hrs. (guide necessary, 23 fr. incl. return). To (6 M.) ArgentUre, and
to the (1 hr.) entrance to the Birard Valley^ see p. 256. We ascend this
valley to the (3 hrs.) Chalet de la Pierre d( Birard (pass night); then over
loose stones and snow to the (3V2 hrs.) summit of the ^Buet (10,197');
magnificent view of the Mont Blanc range , Monte B.osa , the Matterhorn,
the Bernese Alps with the Finsteraarhom and Jungfrau, the Dent du Midi,
and the Jura as far as the mountains of Dauphin^. I>e8cent to the S.W.
by the Col de Leehaud, or des Fonde (p. 254), to the (2s/4 hrs.) Chalets des
Fonds and (IV4 hr.) SixU
73. From Chamonix to Martigny by the Tete-Koire,
or to Vemayaz by Triquent and Salvan.
Comp. Mapy p. 260.
BoAD to Chatelard \}/^ hrs.; thence over the Tete-Koire to Martigny
41/4 hrs., or by Salvan to Vemayaz 4 hrs. — The Mastigky Boad, beyond
Chatelard, is narrow, and bad at places (driving not advisable in wet
weather); carr. and pair for one person 50 fr., for each additional person
10 fr. more (to Argenti^re only, 6, 7, 8, 10 fr.); to Tour 9, 10, 11, 15 fr.;
to Chatelard 30. 30, 36, 40 fr.). From Martigny to Trient 1-3 pers. 30,
4 pers. 40 fr.; TSte- Noire 35 or 45, Chatelard 40 or 50 fr.; Chamonix,
1-2 pers. 50, 3 pers. 60, 4 pers. 70 fr. (if a night is spent on the way,
15 fr. more). The use of return-carriages is prohibited in both directions,
unless the same hirer engages the vehicle to go and return. The traveller
6hould stipulate for the use of the same vehicle all the way ; and if he in-
tends continuing his journey by rail from Martigny or Vemayaz, payment
may be made conditional on catching the train. — Fbou Vernataz to
Chamonix a small gig for 1-2 pers. 50 fr. (from Chamonix to Vernayaz
65 fr., changing carriages at Chatelard); office at Vernayaz opposite the
Grand Hotel des Gorges du Trient. — Guide (12 fr.) for either route of
course superfluous. Luggage may be sent on by carriage by arrangement
with the porter of the hotel (1V2-2 fr.).
Two BoADS and a Bridle Path connect the valley of Chamonix with
the Valais. A road leads from Chamonix by Argenti^re and Valorcine
to Chatelard, whence one road to the right leads by the T§te-Koire,
Trient, and the Col de la Forclaz to Martigny, and the other to the left
to Finhaut, Salvan, and Vernayaz. The bridle-path diverges to the right
from the road at Argenti^re, crosses the Col de Balme, and rejoins the
road at the Col de la Forclaz. Of these routes the road over the Tdte-
Koire to Martigny is the most frequented, but is less interesting than that
to Salvan and Vernayaz, which affords finer and more varied views. The
path over the Col de Balme, on the other hand, though less interesting
on the whole, commands a superb view of the valley of Chamonix and
Mont Blanc, which are not seen to advantage from the other routes. Tra-
vellers from Martigny, approaching Mont Blanc for the first time, should
therefore choose the Col de Balme in clear weather.
The road ascends the valley and crosses the Arve to (I72M.) Les
Prax (*H6t.-Pens. du Chalet des Praz ; Pens. Gouttet, 'k la Mer de
Glace"; both moderate). The village of Les Bois and the Glacier des
Bois remain on the right. At (IY2 M.) Les Tines (*A la Mer de
Glace ; An Tourlste) a path to the Chapeau diverges to the right
256 Route 73. ARGENTlfeRE. From Chamonix
(p. Q50). The road ascends through a wooded defile to (8/4 M.) La-
vancher (3848'; ♦H6t.-Pen8. du Mauvais Pas, with view of Mont
Blanc, R. 2, pens, from dfr.), on the right, ahove the road. (To
the Chapean, see p. 250.) About V2^* farther a bridge crosses the
Arve to La Joux, situated to the left, behind a hill. (Ascent of the
Fl^g^re, see p. 251.) We next pass the hamlets of Lea lies, OrasO'
net J and (IM.) Les Chosalets, cross the Arve, and reach (8/4 M.) —
6 M. ArgenU^re (3963'; *Couronne, B., L., & A.3, D. 4,
pens. 6-7 fr.; BtUevue')^ a considerable village, where the huge
glacier of that name descends into the valley between the Aiguille
Verte (13,540') and the AiguiUe du Chardonnet (12,5431.
'^Glacier d'Argentiere. Bridle-path from Les Chosalets (see above) to
the (2 hrs.) Pavilion dt Lcgnan (65i63'; Inn kept by the guides J. Tour-
nier and Al. Simon) ; 1/4 ^t. higher we obtain a splendid survey ot the grand
^s^racs** of the glacier (where ice-avalanches are frequent). In 1/2 hr. (guide
necessary, to be brought from Chamonix) more we reach the flat upper
part €i the glacier, almost free from crevasses (Mtr dtt QUue d*Ar-
gentiire)^ and may walk on it without hazard. The middle of it affords
a striking view of the surrounding Aiguilles (du Oh&rdonnet, d^Argen-
ti^re, Tour Noire, Mt. Dolent, Les Courtes, Les Droites, Aig. Verte).
We may then ascend the glacier (with guide, 3 hrs.) to the *^Jardin\ a
triangular rock at the base of the Mont Dolent, with fine flora in summer
(not the Jardin above Chamonix). — Col cTArgentiire and Col du Char-
donnet^ see p. 254. — From the Pavilion we may return to the chalets
of Loffnan and Pendant y and follow the Chapeau route to (2V2 hrs.) Les
Tinee (see above).
Beyond the village the new Tete-Noire road ascends to the left in
bold windings. Beyond the (25 min.) hamlet of TrSleehamp we
obtain a fine retrospect of the Glacier du Tour and the magnificent
Aiguille Verte. The (1/4 hr.) top of the pass (Col des MonteU, 4741'),
the watershed between the Rhone and the Arve, commandis a final
view of the Mont Blanc chain.
The road now turns to the W. side of the valley and gradually
descends, passing (20 min.) a finger-post which indicates the way
to the left to the (20 min.) picturesque *Ca8cade & Bircard , or b,
PoyaZj in a wild ravine, a digression to which adds Y2 ^^* ^ ^^^
walk. Through this ravine, the VaUie de BSrard, runs the route to
the Buet (10,197') , the top of which is visible in the background
(see p. 255). Our road crosses the (*/4 hr.) Eau-Noire (Auberge ;
to the waterfall 10 min. from this point).
We next traverse a lonely valley bounded by lofty, pine-clad
mountains. Before us rises the Bel-Oiseau (8609'). In 10 min.
more we reach the first houses of the scattered village of Valoroine
(4232'; pop. 640), and (25 min.) its church, protected against
avalanches by a bulwark of masonry. The valley contracts. The road
descends to the Eau-Noire, which dashes over the rocks, and (5 min.)
crosses it in a picturesque wooded ravine. The (V4 hr.) Hdtel de
Barberine (rustic, not always open) stands at the confiuence of the
£au-Noire and the Barberine, which forms a waterfall here, and a
finer one 1/2 ^^' higher up (1 fr.). We cross (5 min.) the Eau-Noire
by a bridge (3684'), the boundary between France and Switzerland,
to Martigny. TISTE-NOIBE. 73. Route. 257
pass the small H6t. Suisse au Chdtelard (mediocre and dear), and
leaeh (6 min.) the *H6t. Royal du Chdtelard j halfway between Oha-
monlx and Martigny, 4^4 hrs. from each, where the two routes to the
Rhone Valley separate : to the right the road over the Tete-Noire to
Martigny ; to the left the road via Triqnent and Salvan to Yernayaz
(see below).
Fbom Chatblabs to Mabtiont (4^4 hrs.). The road passes
through a cutting in the rock with an archway of masonry and
crosses the Eau-Noire. The once dangerous Mapaa (mauvaU paa)
descends to the left, while the new road leads high above the deep
and sombre valley, being hewn in the rocks of the (8/4 hr.) Tdte-
Voire, or La Roche-Percie, To the N.W. rises the Bet-Oiseau
(SOIOQ; to the N.E., above the valley of Trient, appear the Dent
de Morcles (p. 222) and Orand-Maveran (p. 222). We next reach
(10 min. ; from Argentidre 3 hrs.) the Hdtel de la TeteNoire (4003').
A wooden belvedere, which we reach 2 min. before the inn, affords
a fine survey of the grand gorge of the Eau-Noire.
A path descends by the inn to the left to the C20 min.) Gorges Myst^
rieuses, a ravine of the Trieni^ with a waterfall and a miniature lake,
above the influx of the Eau-Noire, rendered accessible in 1884. Tickets
at the inn (1 fr., with guide).
The road here turns suddenly to the right into the dark and
beautiful forest of Trient, skirting the base of the Tete-Noire. In
the valley, far below, is the brawling Trient, which joins the Eau-
Noire a little farther on. Where the wood is quitted, the valley
widens, and we reach (^2 trO the village of Trient (4250'; JB6t,-
Pens, des Alpes , well spoken of; H6t, du Glacier de Trient, mod-
erate), a little beyond which the road is joined by the path from
Chamonix over the Col de Balme (p. 259).
From Trient the road ascends somewhat steeply to the (V2 ^^0
Col de Trienty better known as Ck>l de la Forclas (4997'; tavern).
The view hence is limited,, but ^g h'- lower down we enjoy a noble
survey of the Rhone Yalley as far as Sion. At our feet lies JUcirtiyny,
reached in 2^/4 hrs. by the road (p. 258), or in I72 ^^- ^V ^^^ s*eep
old path.
Fbom Chatbla&d toYbbnataz (4 hrs.). The narrow road ascends
from the H6t. Royal (see above) to the left, partiy by zigzags,
for 40 min. , and at a cross turns to the right, towards Finhaut.
Now nearly level, with views of the valleys of the Eau-Noire and
the Trient (see above), the Glacier de Trient (p. 258), and the Aiguille
du Tour, it next reaches (8/4 hr.) Finhaut, or Fins-Eauts (4060';
Pens, du Bel-Oiseau, Pens.-Bestaur. du Montblanc, both unpre-
tending and good), beautifully situated.
A path (the beginning of which should be asked for) leads hence direct
to the (1 hr.) TSte-Noire Inn. It descends steeply to a wooden bridge
over the Eau-I^oire, crosses it, ascends to the right, and passes several
houses, where if necessary, a boy may be found to show the way.
Farther on, the Tdte-Koire road soon becomes yisible (see above).
Ascending a little, then level again, the road passes (V4 hr.) a
Baedbkxs, Switzerland. 12th Edition. 17
258 BowU74. COL D£ LA FORCLAZ.
•Cantine (splendid ^iew), doBcends through wood in many windings,
and leads along the slope of the hUl, past the hamlet of Triquent
(32610, to the (3/4 hr.) *acrge8 du Trihge (anbeige at the bridge),
with its pictnresqae waterfalls framed with rocks and dark pines
(rendered accessible by wooden pathways; 1 fr.). For the next
20 min. the road gradually ascends, and then descends between in-
teresting marks of glacier striation to (V2 ^0 BalTan (3035';
*B6t.'Pena, dea Oorges du Triage, R., L., A A. 21/2-3, D. 4, pens.
5-6 fr. ; * Union, moderate).
To the *OaMade da SalMy, a fine fall of the Salan/t^ a good path
leada in ^ min. by the hamlet of Les Oranges^ on the slope facing the
Bhone Valley. The finest point of view is opposite the fall. Lower down
the Salanfe forms the Pissevache Fall (p. 223). In retuning to Saltan we
ei\joy a fine view of the snow-mountains ol the Great St. Bernard. — The
Luiftin (914(y; 6 hrs. from Salvan^ with guide), ascended by the Ccl
d'Emaney (7993*)^ affords a superb view of the Alps of Savoy, Valais, and
Bern. Descent in 5 hrs., by SaUmfe and Vam (p. 284).
From Salvan a good road, shaded by chestnuts, descends the
steep slopes in windings to (3/4 hr.) Vemaya* (rail, stat., p. 223).
74. From Martigny to Chamonix. Col de Balme.
Comp. Map, p. 260.
10 hrs. From Martigny to the Col de Balme 6, thence to Chamonix 4
hours. Road trota Martigny to Trient, and from Tour to Chamonix.
Carriages, see p. 266. Onide (12 fr.) unnecessary, if the following direc-
tions be observed. Luggage may be sent on by carr. by arrangement
with the hotel-porters (comp. p. 256). Horse or mule and attendant 24 fr. \
but from the Col to Tour the path is unfit for riding. Several inns and
cabarets on the route.
Martigwy, see p. 224. We follow the Great St. Bernard road through
the long village of Martigny-Bourg (p. 224) to the (li/2M.)I>rafic«
Bridge (1640^, and (4 min.) reach the hamlet of La Croix. A notice
on a house here indicates the road to Chamonix, ascending to the right,
through vineyards, orchards , and meadows, in numerous windings,
which the rugged old path cuts off : 20 min. Les Bappes ; 35 min. Serg-
fMux (3820^ ; i/4 hr. LtFay. The road here takes a wide bend to the
right, which the old path cuts off. By the (3/4 hr.) Chalet de BeUevue
we enjoy a fine retrospective survey of the Bhone Valley. Then
(20 min.) Les Chavana (auberge), and an ascent of 40 min. more
to the Col de la Forelu (4997'; Beataur., see p. 257), 3V2 hzs.
from Martigny.
From the pass a nearly level path, with a tramway for the ice-
traffic, leads to the (1 hr.) ^G-lacier de Trient, the northernmost glacier
of the Mont Blanc range (safe to walk upon; no guide required; may
be reached by tram-car).
After a descent of i/4 hr. the bridle-path to the Col de Balme
diverges to the left from the Tete-Noire road (p. 257), and in 10 min.
crosses a bridge opposite the upper houses of Trient (p. 257). We
now ascend the meadows to the left (with the Glacier de Trient to
the left, see above) and (20 min.) cross the Nant-Noir ('nant', pro-
bably from natare, being the Savoyard word for a torrent), which
COL DE BALME. 7i. Route, 259
descends from the Mont des Herbaghres. We follow the right bank
for about 200 paces, and then mount to the left In steep zigzags
through the Forest of Magnin, which has been thinned by ava-
lanches. After 1 hr. the path becomes more level, passes (Y4 hr.)
a cantine and (V4lifO the chalets of Z«r6asi2r« (6660Q, and(V2hr.)
reaches the *q61 de Balme (7224'; Hdtel SuUae, mediocre), 6 hrs.
from Martigny, the boundary between Switzerland and France. This
point commands a superb view of the whole of the Mont Blanc range :
the Aiguilles du Tour , d'Argentidre, Verte, du Dru, de Gharmoz,
and du Midi, Mont Blanc itself, and the D6me du Gofiter; and
also of the valley of Ghamonlx as far as the Col de Yoza. On the
right are the Aiguilles Rouges , to the left of them the Br^vent,
and to the right the snow-clad Buet. In the opposite direction, over
the Forclaz, we survey the Yalais and the mountains which separate
it from the Bernese Oberland, the Gemmi with its two peaks, the
Finsteraarhorn, Grimsel, and Furka.
A still finer *Yiew is obtained from a second eminence to the right,
with a white hoiindary«8tone, abont 1/2 1^'* ^-W. of the inn, at the foot of
the Oroiz de Fer^ or Aiguille de Balme (7677'), the laat spur of the hills
which rise abruptly above the Col de ^iJme. From this point Hont Blanc
looks still grander; to the N.E. we see the entire chain of the Bernese
Alps, rising like a vast white wall with countless pinnacles; and to the
£., at our feet, lies the Tdte Noire ravine, with the Dent du Midi rising
beyond it. The descent may be begun immediately from this point. The
ascent of the Aiguille itself is recommended to good climbers (with guide).
A cross 1/4 hr. below the inn on the path to Martigny is to the memory
of Esoher von Berg, a young native of Ziirieh, who lost his life in at-
tempting the ascent without a guide.
Fbom the Gol be Balme to the TAtb-Noibe (2V2 brs.; no guide re*-
quired in fine weather), interesting, and recommended to tiie toaveller
who desires to visit both these points in one day either from the ithone
Valley or from Ghamonix. To the W. of the Gol, behind the above-
mentioned eminence with the boundary-stone, a narrow path leads nearly
to the (lOmin.) brink of the T&te-Noire Valley , and then becomes in-
distinct. We turn to the right (^.) and follow a slight depression for a
few minutes until a number of heaps of stone become visible. The path
soon re-appears and passes to the right of these (10 min.) heaps; 10 min.,
a group of chalets, before quite reaching which the path crosses a
brook and descends rapidly to the left on its bank; Va hr., another group
of chalets (pattis descending to the left to be avoided) ; 20 min. a third
group of chalets. Beautiful view during the descent, embracing the entire
Tdte-Koire valley, which presents a pleasant contrast to tbe Gol de Balme
route. The path, now good and much frequented, passes several chalets
and farms, and at length reaches (1 hr.) the H6iel de la TiU-Koire (p. 257).
The views are less striking in the reverse direction. From Martigny to
the Gol de Balme and back by this route about 11 hrs., from Ghamonix
and back 12, from Ghamonix to Martigny 10-11 hrs.
The path, now rough and steep, descends over pastures carpeted
with rhododendrons and other Alpine flowers. On the right flows
the Arve fp. 1249), which rises on the Col de Balme. We cross
several small brooks, pass P/4 hr.) a heap of stones, and (^4 hr.) a
second heap, resembling a hut without a roof, and reach (Y4 hr.)
Le Tour (4695'), to the left of which is the fine Glacier du Tour.
Carriage-road hence to Ghamonix (73/4 M.). The fragments of slate
brought down by the Arve are carefully collected by the peasants,
17*
260 BouU 75. COL D£ YOZA. From Chamonix
who coyer their fields with them in spring, thus causing the snow
under them to melt several weeks earlier than would otherwise he
the case. (Oarr. from Tour to Chamonix with one horse 6, with
two 9-10 fr. ; those who intend to drive should take a carriage here
if possible.) Ahout ^2 ^' beyond Tour we cross the Buisme, which
drains the Qlader du Tour, and (1 M.) the Aive, and soon reach
(^4 M.) ArgtntUre (p. 256; from the Col de Balme to Chamonix
a walk of 4 hrs*, ascent 5-5^/) hrs.).
75. From Chamonix to Conrmayenr over the Col dn
Bonhomme and the Col de la Seigne.
Comp. Mapy p. 2A8.
Bbiplb Path. Three days: Ist, to Contamines 6>/« hrs. (or to Kant-
Borrant 1*1 a hrs.); 2nd, to Hottets 71/2 hrs. from Contamines (or, inel.
Pointe des Fours , i hr. more) \ 8rd , to Courmayeur S^/i hrs. — Gk)od
walkers or riders may reach Counnayeur from Chamonix in two days,
by spending the night at (9 hrs.) La Balme (p. 261): from La Balme to
Courmayeur 11 hrs. — Or, omitting the Col de Yoza, we may drive from
Chamonix to Contamines or to Notre Dame de. la Gfrorge, in which case
Metfets is easily reached on the fi^st day and Courmayeur on the second.
— Guide (not needed by good walkers in fine weather) from Chamonix
to Courmayeur in two days 20, in three days 24 fr ; return-fee 16 fr. extra.
The Tour of Koat Blano, as this route is called, is easy and interesting.
The paths are good, except that over the Col des Fours which is unfit for
riding. The views from the Pavilion deBellevue, the Col du Bonhomme, the
Pointe des Fours* and the Col de la Seigne are very fine, and the scenery
about Courmayeur ranks with the grandest among the Alps. To complete
our circuit of Mont Blanc, we may return to Martigny over the Great
St. Bernard or over the Col Ferret; but it is preferable to drive from
Aosta to Chatillon, and cross the Th^odule Pass or Matterjoch to Zermatt.
We follow the Geneva road (p. 246) from Chamonix to (3^2 M.)
the hamlet of La GriaZj turn to the left and cross the deep bed of
the Nant de la Grias to (d/4 M.) Lm Houches (H6t. du Glacier, poor),
with a picturesquely situated church. Two paths diverge hence to
the left. The first (a footpath, preferable ; finger-post), diverging by
the brook, a few paces beyond the church, hardly to be mistaken,
ascends in 2^2 hrs. to the Pavilion de BelleTue (5947^) , a rustic
inn on a saddle of Mont Lachat (see below), affording a superb
^iew (best by evening-light) of the Chamonix Valley as far as the
Col de Balme, the Mont Blanc range (summit hidden by D6me du
Gdiiter), and the valley of the Arve.
The other path (easier at first, but disagreeable after rain) diverges by
p, cross 8 min. farther (,n, and ascends in 2 hrs. to the Ool de Yoia (.5496^
Inn closed ; simple refreshments in the chalet), a depression between Moni
Lachat (6926') and the Prarion (p. 246), 20 min. to the W. of the Pavilion
de Bellevue, with a f^ne view, but inferior to that from the Bellevue.
We may descend either on the right bank of the stream by Bionnasaay to
Contamines, or by a better and shorter route on the slopes to the left to
the undermentioned bridge over the Bionnassay, where we join the route
from the Pavilion de Bellevue, and thence adong the left bank.
From the Pa\illon de Bellevue the path descends to the S.over
pastures (the AiguilU dt Bionnassay, 13,360', rising on the left)
and crosses the stream issuing from the Glacier de Bionnassay not
to Courmayeur. NANT-BORRANT. 75. BouU, 261
fai from the end of the glacier. Now a tolerable bridle-path, it
descends on the left side of the valley to (IY4 hr.) Champel
and turns to the left by the fountain. We now descend ra-
pidly, enjoying a fine view of the wooded and well - cultivated
Montjoie Valley, bounded on the W. by the slopes of Mont-Joli (see
below), with the Mont BoaeUtte (8826') in the background, while
to the £., above the green lower hills, peep several of the W. snow-
peaks of the Mont Blanc group (^Aig. du Tricot, de Trelatite, etc.).
At (18 min.) La ViUette the path leads to the right by the fountain,
and then (6 min.) joins the carriage-road from St. Gervals (p. 246),
which we follow to the left. The road soon crosses the brook de-
scending from the Olaeier de Miage, To the right, on the slope of
Mont Joli, stands the conspicuous church of St, Nicolas de Viroce.
The road then leads high on the right bank of the Bon-Nant to La
Chapelle and (1 hr.) —
Les ContamineB-sur-St-Oervais (3927'; Union), a large village
with a handsome church.
The «Mont Joli (8290') is ascended from Bt. NicoUu (see above) without
difficulty in 3 hrs. (guide 6 fr.; auberge */4 hr. from the top). Splendid
view of Mont Blanc. — The Pavilion de TrelcUSte (see below) is more easily
reached from Gontamines than from Nant-Borrant (path ascending to the
left, 20 min. above Gontamines). From Gontamines by the Pavilion de
Trelatlte to Nant-Borrant, 3 hrs.. interesting. — From Gontamines over
the Col Joli to Beau/ort, see p. 242.
Beyond Gontamines the road descends to the hamlet of Poniet,
and overlooks the valley as far as the peaks of the Bonhomme. The
valley contracts. At (3/4 hr.) the bridge which crosses to the pilgrim-
age-chapel of Notre-Dame de la Gorge the road ends.
The bridle-path now ascends to the left , passing a bridge and
frequent traces of glacier-friction. Then through wood, and (40 min.)
across the deep gorge of the Bon-Nant; 10 min. Chalet$ o/" Nant-
Borrant (4780' ; Inn , R. 3 , D. 21/2-3 fr.). We cross the wooden
bridge to the left , and traverse the pastures by a somewhat stony
path. On the left the fall of the Glacier de Trelatite and the Col
de Biranger are visible ; looking back , we survey the vaUey as far
as the Aiguille de Yarens (p. 245).
From Nant-Borrant, or better from Gontamines (see above), we may
reach Hottets or the Gol de la Seigne in 7 hrs. by the Col du Xont
Tondu, or Col du Olaeitr (9204') ; trying, but without danger (guide 30 fr.).
From Nant-Borrant the path ascends to the left (fine waterfalls) to the
(IVahr.) PavUlon de TrelcUSte (6483'; Inn, well spoken of), which overlooks
the Trelatite Olaeier, and mounts the glacier towards the S.E. to the pass,
to the left of Mt. Tondu (beautiful view, especially from a height on the
left). We may either descend to the right to Moitett (p. 262), or to the left
over shelving rocks and across the Olaeier dea Laneettes or dee Glaciers
to the Gol de la Seigne (p. 263). — Over the Ool de Trelatite (11,424'),
immediately S. of the Aiguille de Trelatdte, to the Olaeier de VAlUe
Blanche and Combat Lake (p. 263), very difficult (2 guides, 60 fr. each).
We next reach (1 hr.) the Chalet k la Balme (5627'), an unpre-
tending inn, beautifully situated at the head of the Montjoie Yalley.
In doubtful weather, or if evening is approaching, a guide should be
taken from this pOint to the summit of the pass (3fr.); but, as guides
d
262 Route 75. COL DU BONHOMME. From Chamonix
are not always to be bad here, it is safer to engage one at Contamines
(to the Col da Bonhomme 6^, Col des Fours 6-8, Chapieox 8-10, Mottet
10-12 fr., the higher fees being charged when the guide cannot return the
same day). If the guide be taken to the Col du Bonhomme only, his at*
tendance should be required as far as the highest point (Croix du
Bonhomme, see below) of the pass, where one path aseends to the left to
the Col des Fours and the other descends to Chapieux. Mule from Ifant-
Borrant to the Croix du Bonhomme 5 fr. (bargain necessary).
The path, indicated by stakes, ascends wild, stony slopes, passiiig
a waterfall on the left, to the (20 min.) Plan Jovet (64370 with a
few chalets. (To Mottets over the Col d'Enclayes, see p. 263.) Oa
the (^2 l^'O Plon dts Damu (6543 Q lises a conical heap of stones,
where a lady is said to have perished in a snow-storm. At the end
of the valley (20 min.) the path ascends the slope to the right, and
(^2 hr*) reaches the Col dn Bonhomme (8153'). On the opposite
side of this saddle we look down into the desolate valley of the Oitte.
A path, at first ill-defined, descends into this basin, passes the lonely
Cfwlet de la Saucey turns to the left and crosses the brook, and leads
to (2 hrs.) the chalets of La Gitte and to Beaufort (p. 242) in 3>/e hrs.
more. This is a convenient route to the Tarentaise, but uninteresting.
Guide to La Gitte adrisable.
Two cnrions rocks, the Boehers du Bonhomme and de la Bonne-
femme, here tower aloft, like two ruined castles. Beyond these we
follow the rocky slope to the left (path indicated by stakes), enjoy-
ing a fine view of the mountains of the Tarentaise (p. 242), and next
reach (40 min.) the Croix dn Bonhomme (8153^), where the path
divides. In a straight direction the path descends, partly over loose
stones to (1^/4 hr.) —
Les Chapieux or Chapiu (4950'; ^Soleil; B6U de$ Voyageurs;
mule to the Col de la Seigne 0 fr.), an Alpine hamlet in the Vol des
GlaeierSj and 2 hrs. below Mottets (see below).
Fbom Chapieux to PsA-St-Didibb over the LitUe 8i. Bernard (11 hrs. \
preferable to the Col de la Seigne in doubtful weather). The path to
(3 hrs.) Bourg-St- Maurice (p. 265), at first very stony, but afterwards
better, passes the chalets of Le Crey and BowMval^ commanding a beauti-
ful view of the upper Isire Valley (Tarentaise), and at length unites with
the high-road. From Bourg-8t- Maurice to Pri-St-Didier, see p. 265.
The direct route to Mottets (2^2 h.n.') ascends from the Croix da
Bonhomme to the left, indicated by posts and rarely free from snow
(guide advisable in doubtful weather) to the (35 min.) Col dot Fonn
(88920, to tJie left of which rises the PoinU des Fours (20 min.),
a splendid point of view, marked by a stone pyramid. Then a steep
arid rough descent over snow and dirty slate-detritus, and over
pastures by a bad path, to (1^4 hr.) a group of chalets (6573')
and the (20 min.) huts of L€« Qlaciers, where the path from Chapieux
comes up from the right. We descend to the left, cross the bridge
(5840'), and ascend the left bank to (25 min.) the two houses of —
Mottets (6227'; H6tel de MoUets , dear; mule to the Col de la
Seigne, 6 fr.), at the head of the Val des Glaciers. To the N. rises
the Aiguille des Glaciers (12,580'), with its extensive glacier.
Over the Col du Mont Tondu to Contamtn'eSf see p. 261. Another route
^o Mottets (4 hrs. from Nant-Borrant; shorter, but trying) is from the Pfo»
to Courmayeur, COL DE LA SEIGNE. 75. Route. 263
Jovet (Bee above), past the small lake of that name, and over the Col
d'Enelavei (8812'), between Mt. Tonda and the Tdte d'Enclaves.
A bridle-path, well constructed at places, ascends hence in zig-
zags to the (172^1.) *Col de laSeigiie(8240Q, where a cross marks
the frontier between France and Italy. Magnificent view of the
*All^e Blanehe» an Alpine valley several miles long, bounded on
the N.W. by the tremendous precipices of the Mont Blanc chain.
To the left of the pass rise the Aig. des Glaciert (12,580') and Aig. de
Trelaiete (12,9(X}') ; then beyond the depression of the JUage Olaeier, the
imposing snowy dome of Mont Blcme^ borne by the huge rocky but*
tresses of Mont du Brouillard and Mi. Rouge; farther on towers the bold
and isolated Aig. Bltmche de Peuteret^ ascended for the first time in 1885.
Of the more distant peaks the Aig. du Oiant and the Oramdei Jorasses
are conspicuous ; and beyond the Col de Ferret rise the peaks of the Great
St. Bernard, beyond which appear the snowy Mi. Vel<m^ Grand Conibin,
etc. In the valley lies the green Lac de Gombal. The retrospective view
of the Tarentaise lifts, is also fine, but it cannot compete with the im-
posing scene just described.
Beyond the pass the path descends over snow and d^ris, keep-
ing to the left, then across pastures , to the (V2 ^'0 upper Chalets
de VAlUe Blanche (7232'; occnpied for a few weeks in the height of
summer only), and the(i/2hr.) lower chalets (6970'), at the end of a
level plateau. On the left are the Olaeier de VEateUette and the great
Glacier de VAllie Blanche. We next round the hill to the right,
cross the brook, and descend to a second level reach of the yalley
(formerly the bed of a lake), at the end of which (3/4 hr.) lies the
green Lac de Combal (GSGB'), bounded on the N. by the huge mo-
raine of the Olaeier de Miage. Near a sluice at the lower end of
the lake (lOmin.) we cross the Doire, which issues from the lake,
and descend the side of the moraine through a wild ravine, filled
with fragments of rock. (The Miage Glacier, at the head of which
valuable lead and silver mines are now worked , is not visible.)
After 3/4 hr. the Doire is again crossed. The valley, now called
Val Veni^ expands. We pass (5 min.) the Cantine de VAvizaille
(5421'), and enjoy a fine view down the valley.
The well-trodden path descends through wood and pastures,
passing (40 min.) a lead smelting-house (see above). On the left
is the fine Olaeier de la Brenva, which once filled the whole
Y&Uey, but has receded greatly within the last few decades.
On leaving the wood (20 min.) we survey the old bed of the
glacier for a long way up ; on the left is the Aiguille de Peu-
teret with the snowy summit of Mont Blanc towering above it ; on
the right the pavilion on the Mont Frtfty (p. 264). By the
chapel of Notre-Dame de Querisony a few minutes farther, the
path rounds an angle of rock, overlooking the village of JEH-
trkves (p. 264) to the left , at the mouth of the Val Ferret , and
then descends to the Doire , which unites here with the Doire du
Val Ferret and takes the name of Dora Baltea. Opposite the little
baths of La 8axe (*/2 hr.) , we cross the Dora , pass the (V4 hr.)
Hotel du Montblancj and in 10 min. more reach —
264 BouU75, GOURMAYEUR.
Courmayaiir. — ^Anoblo, ^Hotxl Rotal, in both B., L., A A. 4, B.
IVz, D. 5 fr. -, UirioN ; *Mont Blakc, Vs M. to the IS. of the Tillage. 2>t7t-
getiee in summer (July lat-Sept. Ist) to Aosta in 5Vs hn.; 6, coup^ 9 fr.
(at other Beasona from Pr^-St-Didier only). One-hone carriage to Aosta 18,
two-horse 90 fr. (return vehicles 12 or 20 fr.). As at Chamonix, there is
a society of guides here with similar regulations (see p. 247). L. and /.
Proment, J. M. Lanier, Sir. Henry, J. Oadin, Al. Berthed, J, M. Br on,
and Em. and J. M. Rey, are recommended.
Coutmayeur (3963 Q, Ital. CormoifgioTt, a considerable village,
with mineral springs, be&ntifnlly situated at the head of the Aosta
Valley, is much frequented by Italians in summer. Though higher
than Ghamonix, the climate is warmer and the vegetation far richer.
The highest peak of Hont Blanc is concealed from Gourmaveur by
the Mont ChHif ^685'), but is seen from the Pr^-St-Didier road, ^k M. to
the S. — From the hamlet of DoMont, opposite Courmayeur at the base
of Hont Ch^tif, we obtain an excellent survey of the enormous precipices
of the JorcMtt and the glacier of that name. Pleasant walk thither, cross-
ing the Dora Bridge (10 min.); then through the village, down to the
Dora by a shady path at its N. end, and back by the left bank (Vs hr.).
A bridle-path (guide unnecessary) leads from Dollone to the W. to the
(2 hrs.) Col de Chdeouri (6397'), on the 8.W. side of the Mont Gh^tif (see
above), commanding a fine view of Mont Blanc. We may return by the
All^e Blanche, see p. 203.
The *Kont de Saxe (7734'; 2Vr3 hrs. ; guide, 6 fr., unnecessary) affords
a complete view of the S.E. side of Mont Blanc with its numerous glaciers,
from the Col de la Seigne to the Col de Ferret, the Col du Gtfant and
the Jorasses being close to us. A good bridle-path ascends from Cour-
mayeur, by Le Villair Oe^ving La Saxe on the left), to the (2 hrs.)
Chalete du Pri (6670') and the (1 hr.) nearer peak. The descent may be
made by the ChaleU de Leuehi into the Val Ferret.
'The *Cramont (9060'), commanding a grand view of Mont Blanc, ia
more conveniently ascended from Prd St.-Didier (see p. 265).
To Craxonix'oveb thb Col du G&ant (comp. p. 26o), 14 hrs. (guide 50,
porter 30 fr. ; two guides, or a guide and a porter required). Interesting
excursion to the (272 hrs.) Pavilion dn Fruitiar, or du Mont Blanc (7103';
dear, especially when provisions are brought from Courmayeur). on the
Mont Frity; thence to the Col du Oiait (11,083'; refiige-hut), with most
magnificent view, a steep ascent of 3V< hrs. (guide to the Pavilion 6 fr.,
unnecessary ; to the pass and back 12, in two days 15 fr.). — Ascent of
Mont Blanc, see p. 2S2.
Fbom Godbmatbub to Mabtignt ovbb thb Col Fbbbbt (14 hrs.),
fatiguing, and on the whole unattractive (guide to the Chaleta de Ferret
advisable, 15 fr.). From La Saxe (p. 263) we follow the left bank of
the Dora to a point above the village of Entrhvee; we then (1 hr. frona
Courmayeur) cross the Doire du Val Ferret, and ascend on its right bank.
By the {V/t hr.) chalets of Praz-See (6836') we again cross the stream. (The
path on the right bank is soon lost among the huge rocks of a mo-
raine.) We now ascend the steep and narrow Yal Ferret, passing the
poor huts of La Vaehey (5382'), Firachi (5664'), Gruetta (5782% and SaU
Joan (6368'). (Paths diverging to the right to be avoided.) The last
chalets are those of (2Vs hrs.) Pri de Bar (6756'; auberge), at the base
of the glacier of that name, which descends from Mont Dolent (12,569').
The bridle-path ascends to the right in numerous windings to the
(IVs hf.) Ool Ferret, or Col de la PeuUu (8328'), the frontier of Switaer-
land and Italy, with a sujperb view of the Val Ferret and the 8. side of
the Mont Blanc group with its huge glaciers (de Triolet, etc.), of the
Jorasses, the Aiguille du G^ant, and the All^e Blanche as far as the
Col de la Seigne. [Another pass, called the Pat du Qrapilion or Col du
Petit Ferret (8178'), farther N., close to the foot of the precipices of Mont
Dolent, is shorter, but more fatiguing and devoid of view.] We des-
cend to the '(1 hr.) Chalets de la Penlaz (6843'), below which we cross
PRfi ST. DIDIER. 76. Route, 265
the Dranee and 0/2 hr.) . reach the Col de FenStre route. (From this
point to the St. Bernard Hospice 4-4V2 hrs. ; cnmp. p. 279). The path
then descends to the left to the O/s hr.) chalets of Ferret (5566*; cabaret),
and through the N. (Swiss) Vol Ferret or Ferrex to (V2 hr.) La Folly
&Wy-^ with the Glaeiei' de la Neuva above it, on the left). Then
0/2 hr.) La Seilot (cabaret), (IV4 hr.) Prca de Fort (where we reach the
road), Ville d'Issert, Som la Froz^ and (iV4 hr.) Orsiire$ (p. 276).
76. From Gourmayeur to Aosta and Ivrea. The
Oraian Alps.
6'2V2 M. From Courmayeur to (21 H.) Aoeta^ an Omnibus plies thrice
a day in summer in 4 hrs. (in the reverse direction 5 hrs.), starting at
6 a.m., 1, and 6 p.m., returning from Aosta at 6 and 11 a.m., and 3.15
p.m. ; one-horse carr. 18, two-horse 30 fr. From Aosta to (41 Vz M.) Ivrea^
Eailwat in 2V2 hrs. (fares 7 fr. 60, 5 fr. 30, 3 fr. 45 c). The railway, a
fine example of engineering enterprise, traverses a highly picturesque district.
Courmayeur, see p. 2^4. — The road to Aosta (8 hrs., walk-
ing not recommended) winds down to the Doire and follows its
left bank through a wooded ravine. (Walkers will prefer the old
road , with fine views, on the hillside to the left, descending to
the new road below Prtf St. Didier.) Passing (2^4 M.) PaUsieuXj
we cross the Doire to (3/4 M.) Pr^ St. Didier (3280'; Hot, de VVni-
vers) , a picturesquely situated village with baths, where the road
to the ZdtUe 8t. Bernard diverges to the right. Near the hot springs
(74 M. lower) the stream forces its way between perpendicular rocks
towards the Dora valley.
£xouB8iONS. (Guides: O. Vereellin^ O. and F. Brtmod^ 8im, and Ferd.
Berthod, Jot. JBarmaz, and Victor Belfrond). The ascent of the *Tete de
Gramont (9030^; 3^/2 hrs.) is interesting. Following the St. Bernhard road
to the first tunnel (shorter footpath in 20 min.), we thence ascend to the
right to the (i/s hr.) hamlet of Chauion (5970*), whence we reach the sum-
mit in 2V2 hrs. more. Splendid view of Hont Blanc and the Graian Alps.
Five xuin. below the top is the Pavilion Saueeure^ a refuge -hut of the
I. A. C. Another route (bridle-path) diverges to the right from the St.
Bernhard road at Elevae^ 3 H. from Pr^ St. Didier, joining the above route
before the final ascent. Experts may dispense with a guide.
To Boubg-St-Maubice ovbb the Little St. Bebnabd, 22 M., a route
preferred by some to that over the Col de la Seigne (p. 263). The fine
new road ascends the valley of the Thuile to (2 hrs.) La Thuile (4726'-,
Hot. du Glacier du Buitor, poor and dear), where we have a view of the
great glacier of the Ruitor^ which may be ascended hence (2 hrs. to the
S. are the beautiful *Ruitor waterfalls, p. 274), to (IV4 hr.) Pont Serranty
(608 30 » past the Cantine des Eaux-Rouges (Alpine fare), to the ('/« hr.) pass
of the Little St. Bernard (7176'). The boundary between France and Italy
fa on the S. side, about V4 hr. beyond the summit, and near a * Hospice
affording good accommodation. [The M. Yalaisan (9453')^ 2 hrs. to the
8.E., theM. Belvedhre id/&^% IV2 hr. to the N.E., and the La'icehranlette
(963(7), 2 hrs. to the W., all afford admirable views of the Mont Blanc
chain. J We now descend gradually, overlooking the beautiful upper valley
of the Isere (La Tarentaise) and the Savoy Mts. the whole way, to St. Ger-
main., Siezy and (9 M.) Bourg-St. Kaurice (2805'; H6t. dee Voyageurs)^ a
amall town on the Is^re, whence a diligence runs twice daily in 41/2 hrs.
to (16 M.) MoHtiers-en-Tarentaise (p. 242).
From Bourg-St. Maurice to Chapieuz^ see p. 262. — To the E. of Bourg-
St. Maixiice a road, practicable for driving the greater part of the way,
ascends the wild upper part of the Isere Valley, by 8te. Foy, at the W.
base of the Ormelune (10,772') and La Thuile (with the beautiful Mont
266 Route 76. AOSTA. From Courmayeur
Powrri^ 13,^80', on the right), to (6V2 hrs.) Tignet (5449 •, H6t. du Club
Alpin^ H6t, dta Tourittet, hoth plain), at the confluence of the Isere and
the Stutiirey which forms a pretty fall. To the "S.E. rises the Aig. de la
0rand€-8€uaiirt (12,923^ diCacult). Thence over the Col di Rheme to the
Val di Rhime^ see p. 21o\ over the Col de la Oalise to Ceresole, see p. 274
Below Pi^ St. Didiei we again ciosb the Doiie (grand retro-
spective view of Mont Blanc, which continnes visihle as 'far as
Avise), follow the lofty slope for some distance, and then descend
through vineyards into a broad and rich valley. To the S. appears
the beautifnl pyramid of the Orivola (p. 271). On the hill to the
left of (3 M.) Korgex (3017'; Angelo) is the picturesque rained
ch&teau of Chalant] farther on is La SaUt with the ruins of a
castle. Opposite (3 M.) ViUaret (Inn), on the right hank, is the
pretty church of Derby ^ with a fine waterfall above it. The valley
contracts. The road returns to the right bank by the (IV2 ^0
Pont de VEquiline (3670') and leads through a wild and pictures-
que deflle (Pierre TailUe) to Ruinaz (3580'; Croix, poor). Op-
posite lies At7t«e, with a ruined castle and an ancient tower. Mont
Blanc is now lost to view. The road traverses another rocky gorge,
where the pyramidal Mt. Emilius comes in sight. Near the
beautifully situated, but dirty village of (81/2 M.) Liverogne (2390';
H6t. du Col du Mont) we cross the deep gorge of the Qriaanche
(p. 274). Behind us is the snowy Ruitor; to the left is the church
of at. Nicolas (3922'), on a precipitous rock. Beyond (3/4 M.)
Arvier we descend rapidly and cross the Savaranehe. (To the
right, on the hill, are the chlteau and cburch of Jntrod^ p. 273.)
Then (3 M.) YzUeneuve (2296'; Cerf, poor), beautifully situated,
and commanded by the ruined castle of Argent on a lofty rock.
(Hence to the Pont d'El, IV4 hr., see p. 270).
We next ascend a little on the left bank of the Doire, passing
a massive old tower. Beautiful retrospective *View of the three-
peaked Ruitor, the Grivola with the Trajo Glacier, etc. Opposite
St. Pierre (2168'), with its church and old castle on a rocky hill,
opens the Val de Cogne on the S. (p. 270) ; on the right bank lies
Aimavillej with iron-foundries and the ch&teau of Countess Rocca-
Chalaud with its four towers. The road passes the handsome
chliteau of LaSarre (21 54'), and traverses a broad shadeless valley
to (71/4 M.) —
24 M. Aosta. — ^Hotel du Montblanc, to the W. of the town, on
the Courmayeur road, V2 M. from the post-office, B., L., & A. 2-3, B. IVsj
D. 4-5 fr. i CoUBONNE, Place Charles Albert, next door to the ^st-office,
Italian. Opposite the latter '^Restaur. Lanier, in the Hotel- de-Ville ; beer
at Ztrntnermann't ^ near the Hdtel-de-Ville. — One-horse carriage to Cour-
mayeur 18 or 30 fr. ; to St. R^my 15 or 25 fr. Omnibus to Courmayeur,
see p. 264.
Aosta (1913'; pop. 7760), the Augusta Praetor ia Salassorum 01
the Romans, and now the capital of the Italian province of Aosta,
is beautifully situated at the confluence of the Buthier and the Doire
or Dora Baltta. The still existing antiquities testify to the im-
portance of the place during the Roman period. The most interest-
to Ivrecu AOSTA. 76. Route. 267
ing of these are the Town Walls ^ flanked witli strong towers, a
double Gateway somewhat like the Poita Nigra of Treves, a hand-
some Tnumphal Arch, with ten Corinthian half-columns, the arch
of a Bridge, and the ruins of a BasiUea, The walls are reached in a
few minutes by one of the streets leading to the N. from the Place
Charles Alhett, The other relics may be inspected in about V2 hour.
We follow the principal street towards the E. from the Place, and
soon reach the Roman Gate , and a few min. farther the Triumphal
Arch. In a straight direction, 200 paces beyond the latter, the nar-
row Rue du Pont Remain crosses a brook by means of a Roman
Bridge , the massive construction of which is seen by descending
a few paces to the left. The modern bridge across the Buthier affords
a fine view of the Grand-Combin, Ruitor, etc. — The modem Cathe-
dral possesses a singular portal, with frescos, and the Last Supper
in terracotta, gaudily painted, liie church of St. Ours contains well-
carved choir-stallB ; adjacent are cloisters with interesting early-
Romanesque marble columns. The old Campanile affords a pleasing
survey of the town and environs. Modem Edtel-de- Ville in the Place
Charles Albert, or market-place (containing the office of the Alpine
Club and interesting collections). Near the H6t. Montblanc is the
Tour du Lepreux, brought into notice by Xav. de Malstre. Farther
to the W. are the remains of a Roman Theatre. — Between the
railway station and the town stands a bronze *8tatue of Victor
Emmanuel //., by Tortone, in hunting dress, on a lofty rock pedestal.
— The natives of the town are sadly afflicted with cretinism.
ExcuBSiONS. The ^Becca di Nona (10,906'; 7 hrs. ; with guide. 18 fr. ;
provisions necessary: tolerable night-quarters at the Gombo^ Alp, see
below) is an admiraole point of view. The bridle-path, dusty at first,
crosses the Doire and ascends somewhat rapidly to the village of Charvensod
(2446*; guides Gr^goire and Grat. Jos. Come), traverses a wood, and passes
the hermitage of St. Grat (5815') and the Gol Plan FetUtre (7298') to the
Alpt Comboi, in a basin at the foot of the Becca di Nona and in 2Vs ^^•
more to the summit. A few yards below the top is the Capanna Budden
of the I. A. C. Superb ♦View (Panorama by Carrel), embracing the whole
of the Mont Blanc and the Monte Rosa ehabis, and the Graian Alps to the
S. [The Signal Sismonda (7698'), 20 min. above the Col Plan Fenetre,
commands an excellent view of the Ruitor and the Pennine Alps.] —
We may, for variety, in descending from the Becca, leave Combo^ to
the left, and go straight through the valley of the Dard. Below the basin
of Combo^ there is a fine waterfall, at the foot of which we cross the brook
and then descend to the left to Charvensod.
The Mont Emiliua (11,673'), J^ay be ascended by experts from the
Combed Alp in 4 hrs. (with guide). We follow the Col d'Arbole route
as far as the (1 hr.) ChaUts d^ArboU (p. 271), and then turn to the left,
passing a small glacier-lake. View still more extensive than from the
Becca di Kona.
The Mont FalUre (10,043'), may be ascended from Aosta in 7 hrs.,
by a new bridle-path, via VilU tur Sarre. From the Capanna Regina
Margherita of the I. A. C, at the top, splendid view of the entire Pennine
and Graian chains.
From Aosta to Zebmatt (p. 811) an attractive but fatiguing route
leads through the Val Pellina, and over the Ool de Yalpelline (11,686'), in
two days : to the chalets of Prarayi (p. 300) 9 hrs. ; thence a difficult
ascent over the OlacUr de Za-de-Zan to the pass, to the S. of the Tite
268 Boute 76, CHATILLON. From Courmayeur
Blanche (12,80(X), and down the Stock, and Zmutt glaciers to (10-12 hrs.)
Ztrmatt (comp. p. 311). — From Bionaz (p. 800), 3 hrs. above Valpelline
and 5 hrs. from Aosta, the Bee de Lnseney (t2.,44(/), which commands a
grand view, may be ascended in 7 hrs. (difAcult, for experts only). —
Several passes lead from the Valpellina to the Val 8t. BarihHems (see
below): from Oyace (p. 300) or Bionaz over the Col de VeMona (about
SSSO*), easy and attractive ; from Bionaz over the Col de Montagnaia (9643'),
easy; from Praray^ over the Col de Livonea (dGiSOi laborious.
*From Aosta to Cogne, see p. 270; over the Thiodule Pass to Zermatt,
B. 83; over the Col de Collon to Evolena, p. 300; over the Col de FenStre
to the Val de Bagnes, p. 282; over the Great St. Bernard to Martigny, B. 77.
Leaving Aosta the Railway crosses tlie Buihier and the Bagntrt,
and approaches the I>ora, the coarse of which Is here interrupted
by numerous islands. As we look back we enjoy a splendid Ylew
of the valley of Aosta, surrounded by lofty mountains : to the S.
rise the Becca dl Nona and Mt. Emllius, to the N. the Grand
Combin and Mt. Yelan, and to the W. the Ruitor (see p. 274).
Shortly before reaching the station of (5 M.) Quart-VilUffancht
(17550 ^e ^66 ^^e chateau of Qwirl (2486') on a hlU to the left.
The train now crosses the Dora, but beyond (7 M.) 8L Marcel, at
the mouth of the valley of the same name (p. 272), it returns to
the left bank. On the slope above St. Marcel is the pllgrlm-resort
of Plou, Near (8 M.) Nus, with its ruined castle, the Val SL-
Barihilemy y from which yarious passes lead to the Yalpellina
(see above), opens on the N. The line once more crosses and re-
crosses the Dora. To the right appears the picturesque chliteau of
FinU, near the mouth of the Clavaliti or Finis Valley, from which
towers the slender snowy pyramid of the Tersiva (p. 271). We
now intersect near DUmos a large deposit of debris by a viaduct
100 yds. long, and traverse a tunnel to (121/2 M.) Chanibave
(1623')) noted for its wine, where we command for the last time
a retrospect as far as the Ruitor.
The valley now contracts ; the railway runs between the river
and the cliffs, traversing two tunnels and a deep cutting through
a deposit of debris, and crosses the Matmoire, descending from
the Valtournanche. 15^2 M. Ch&tillon (1738'; *H6t. de Londres,
R., L., «fe A. 3 fr.; H6t. de I'Ange), the district capital, with 2992
inhab., and a castle of the ancient counts of Ghallant, is beautifully
situated, 1^4 M. above the railway, at the mouth of the Valtour-
nanche. The deep wooded gorge of the Matmoire, which is pic-
turesquely studded with houses, is spanned in the centre of the
village by an imposing single-arched bridge. — To Valtournanche
and over the Theodule Pass to Zermatt, see pp. 310, 311.
From Chatillon the railway continues along the left bank of the
Dora. On the steep hill to the right is the old ch&teau of Ussel,
also once belonging to the Ghallant family. Beyond two short
tunnels Is (16^2 ^0 ^^' Vincent, the station for the village of the
same name (Lion d'Or ; Ecu de France) , situated ^4 M. to the
left, at the foot of the pyramidal Mt Zerbion (89249, and con-
to Ivrea. ^£RR:&S. 76, Route, 269
tainiDg a mineral spring with l)Ath8. We next enter tbe *Mcnt
Jovet Defile^ the most striking part of the entire journey ; a series
of tunnels, separated hy massive retaining and sheltering walls,
follow each other in the narrow rocky gorge, while far helow the
foaming Dora descends in cascades. The exit of the pass is com-
manded by the ruined castle of Mcnt Jovet or 8U Germain high up
on the left. An imposing yiaduct here spans the Dora. Beyond
(20 M.) the station of Mont Jovet, the Talley again expands. Ex-
tensiye yineyards begin to appear; on the right rise lofty cliffs.
Farther on we see on the slopes the yillage of Champ de Praz, at
the mouth of the Val Chalame, watered by a stream, which in
times of flood has scattered stones far and wide oyer the yalley
of the Dora. The train crosses the Dora and the Evangon and
reaches —
231/2 M. Verris (1280'). The yillage of that name (1100 inhab. ;
Ecu de France or Post; Couronne\ with an ancient chateau of the
counts of Ghallant, is picturesquely situated on a rocky eminence,
at the mouth of the Val de ChaUarU (p. 324). Issogne, on the op-
posite bank of the Dora, has also a chateau of tbe same family.
To the N.E., between the valleys of Ghallant and Gressoney, ap-
pear the rocky peaks of the Mt. Voghel (^Becea Torch, 10,266').
251/2 ^* Arnaz, with a ruined castle. The line traverses an
extensive alluvial deposit, and at Campagnola crosses to the right
bank of the Dora. 2B M. HSne-Bard, in a superb situation. To
the right the Val Champorcher or Camporciero, with its picturesque
rocky summits (by the Col de Cogne to Cogne, see p. 272); to
the N.W., in the background of the Dora valley, the Bee de Luseney
(p. 268). On a steep crag on the left bank of the Dora rises *rort
Bard (1282'), captured in 1052 after a long siege by Duke Amadeus
of Savoy, and in 1800 , before the battle of Marengo , gallantly
defended by 400 Austrians against the French army. Beyond this
point Italian only is spoken by the natives.
The railway crosses the river and passes under the fortress by
means of a tunnel, 650 yds. long. Then through a narrow rocky
ravine to ( 29Y2 M.) JDonnas (Posta), prettily situated, and over the
wild Lye torrent in a broad valley surrounded by imposing moun-
tains to (31 M.) Font St. tfartin, the station for the village of the
same name (1005' ; Rosaf Cavallo Bianco'), in a highly picturesque
situation, at the month of the deep and narrow valley of the Lya
or Qreasoney (p. 323), with a ruined castle, foundries, and an
ancient Roman bridge across ^he Lys.
The railway again crosses and reerosses the Dora, which here
forms a large island. On the slope to the left is the handsome
village of Carema, surrounded by vineyards and fruit-gardens. On
the right bank is (33 M.) Quincinetto, at the foot of the Becco
deUe Steje (9184'); on the left bank is the ruin of Ceanola, beyond
which rises the Becca Torch (see above). 35 M. Tavagruiaco', the
270 Route 76. IVREA. The Oraian
village lies to the ri^ht. Opposite at the foot of the Colma di
Monbaron (7773') is the l&rger Tillage of SeUimo VHtone. The
lower terraces of the picturesque and highly cultiyated valley are
covered with vines, higher up are woods of walnut and chestnut
trees, ahove which again rise bare rocky peaks. We cross the
Dora again at MontestrtUto , pass (on the left) Terrassa and S.
Germano^ with ruined castles, and reach (3772 ^0 Bosgofraiioo
(924'), with a recently discovered arsenical spring, prettily situated
1 M. from the station.
The mountains now recede and the valley again expaads.
39 M. Montalto Dora^ with a striking and well-preserved ruined
castle. The train now enters a tunnel (1^4 M. long) under the
hill of Ivrea, crosses the Dora, and stops at (41 Ys M.) Ivrea (768';
Scudo di Franeia; Europa; Vniverso; Italia), a town with 10,413
inhab., picturesquely situated on the left bank of the Dora, with
an ancient castle, several lofty round towers, and numerous churches.
Comp. Baedeker^ 8 Northern Italy.
From Ivrea to Turin^ railway in 2 hrs., see Baedeker''* Northern Italy.
Travellers bound for Milan may conveniently make nse of the steam
tramway to 8anthi& (18V« M. in 2 hrs.; 2nd cl. fare IVs fr.). This
picturesque, though somewhat dusty route leads vi& Bollengo^ with its
large chateau, and past the Lake of Viverone, embosomed in woods.
The Oraian Alps.
The Graian Alps, an extensive mountain-system culminating in the
Or an Paradiso (iS^) and the Orivola (13,018'), lie between the valleys
of the Dora Baltea and the Isire on the ^., and those of the Dora Ry>aria
and the Arc on the S. We here describe a few of the most interesting routes
through the E. part of this grand mountain-region, which presents so striking
an appearance when approached from the Pennine Alps. These routes, which
are easily accomplished from Aosta, lead us into the Val de Coffne and the
Val Savaranehe, Val di Rhime, and Val Orisanehe^ which run parallel
with the Val de Cogne on the W. Except at Ck)gne, where there are
two rustic inns, the traveller in this almost untrodden region must gener-
ally be content with humble quarters at the houses of the cur^s.
The mountains of Cogne form a favourite chaese of King Humbert, as
they did of his father Victor Emmanuel (p. 267), and the mountain-goat
CSteinbock'' , Ital. ^stambecco") , elsewhere nearly extinct, is still found
here. Several excellent bridle-paths, leading to the royal shooting-lodges,
are a great assistance a the pedestrian.
Froh Aosta- to Ooonb (6^2 hrs.). As far as (6 M.) Aimaville
(2118') we may follow the high-road (p. 266), but it is preferable
to cross the Doire near Aosta, and to go by Oressan and Joven^n,
across meadows and well-cnltivated fields. The bridle-path then
ascends rapidly past the church of St, Martin to La Poia (2790'),
and enters the Val de Cogne at a great height above the ravine of
the brawling Grand' Eyvie. Far below we soon observe the houses
of Pont d*El (2863'), with its admirably preserved ♦Roman Bridge
formerly an aqueduct) , 60 yds. long , and 394' above the stream.
It was erected in the reign of Augustus. The valley contracts.
Near the bridge by which we cross the stream , we obtain a view of
the Grivola for a short time. We next reach (I1/2 hr.) Vieyea
Alps, . COGNE. 76. Route. 271
(3730'; cantine), at the mouth of the Combe de Nomenon (pretty
waterfall) , with the Grivola and the Gran Nomenon in the back-
ground. ICoUe de Meaoneles, see p. 273) Beyond (74 hr.) Sil-
venoire (on the right), and a deserted iron-fonndry, we again cross
the brook by the Pont de Laved (4480'), where the mountains of
Gogne are revealed. Then (1V2 hr.) B^inel (47620, opposite the
lofty Punta del Pousset (see below), with the Trajo Olacier on the
right. At (Y2 ^^■•) Critaz the Valnontey descends from the S. to
the Grand' Eyvie; (20 min.) Cogne (see below).
Fbom Aosta to Coome ovsb the Pasbo d'Abbole, a fine though
fatiguing route (9 hn., with guide). Ascent to 0^/2 hrs.) St. Ortsl^ see
p. 267. Thence past the ChamoU Alp and over the ridge (8646*) to the (3
hrs.) Chalets d*Arbole (8186'; path from Comboi^ in 1 hr., see p. 267), near
a small lake, and then a fatiguing ascent across debris to the (1 hr.)
Paaso d'Arbole (930S'); admirable view of the Grand Paradis, Grivola, etc.
Steep descent over rocks, debris and grassy slopes to the Chcuett eTArpisson
(7630'), and through pine-wood to the chalets of C?Mvanit, where the path
divides : to the right to EpvMl ; to the left to Crita* (sea above).
Cogne (5030' ; H6t. Orivola and H6t, Royal, rustic), charmingly
situated with a beautiful view of the Gran Paradise and the Grand
St. Pierre , with their glaciers (Glacier de la Tribulation , del
Grand Orou, du Money, etc.) to the S., and of Mont Blanc to the
N.W., is an excellent starting-point for excursions. Three valleys
converge here; the VaUone di Valnontey from the S., the VaUone
d'Urtier from thO'E., and the VaUone di Orauson, from the N.
Ascents astd Passes. (Guides, Elysie and Joseph Jeaniet, L. Oui-
ehardaz.) *Funta del Ponuet (10,746'; 5 hrs.; guide 6, mule i2 fr.), a
superb point of view. At Critaz (see above) the bridle-path crosses the
Valnontey and enters a wood, and then ascends grassy slopes to the cha-
lets of Ors-Dessus and (3 hrs.) Pausset-Desstts (8387'). Thence a steep
climb of iVzhr., passing a very giddy place near the top, brings us to the
rocky crest of the Punta del Poueset. Close to us, above the Orivola
Otaeier, towers the Grivola, which is hardly inferior in boldness to the
Matterhom, and other mountains of the Pennine and Graian Alps are
also visible. — Orivola (13,018'; from Cogne 9hrs. ; two guides at 28 fr.
each), toilsome, and requiring experience. From the Chalets del Pousset
Snperiori (see above ; where the night should be spent) we reach the Orivola
Glacier (10,515') in 2 hrs. , cross it (1 1/2 hr.) , and ascend the S.E. side of
the Grivola, at first over steep slopes of ice , and then rock. (Beware of
falling atones.) In 2V2-3 hrs. more we reath the top , which commands a
magnificent panorama. — Ascent from Val Savaranche much more difficult.
The Punta di Tersiva (11,522'; 7 hrs., with guide) presents no difficulty
to adepts. We proceed through the VaUone di Orauson to the (2^/2 hrs.)
chalets of Oraitson (7449^) and to (*/4 hr.) ErvillHre; thence, passing the
little Lac Dorikres^ to the (1 hr.) Pcisso d''Invergneux (9187') and by the
W. ridge to the (2V2 hrs.) summit. Magnificent view of the Graian and
Pennine Alps and of the plain of Piedmont (Turin), etc. This ascent may
be also made from the S. from the Val d'Urtier via the PonUm Alp^ or
from the }7. (more difficult) from the Val di ClavaliU (p. 268).
In the Vallone de Valnontey, opening to the S. of Cogne, lie the (3 hrs.)
chalets of Le Money ^ which afford an admirable view of the Oran Paradiso
with its glaciers (ascent, see p. 273). Two difficult glacier-passes, the Oolle
Grand Crou or Col Tuckeit (11,135'), between the Oran Paradiso and Beeca
di Gay and the CoUe Koney (11,243'), between the Rossa Viva and Grand
St. Pierre, lead from the head of the Valone de Valnontey to Ceresole
(p. 274; guide (15 fr.).
F&ox GoONE TO Babd over the Col db Coonb, 1142 hrs., attractive
272 RouU 76. YAL aAYARANCHE. The Oraian
and not difficult. A bridle>path (royal hanting-i»ath) crossea the Urtier at
0/2 hr.) Chatnplong (SIPS') , and ascends the valley of the stream with its
abundant flowers and waterfalls, commanding fine views of the Grivola to
the W., and to the 6. of the Combe de VaMlle (see below). We next pass
the chapel of Cret to the (2 hrs.) chalets of Pi<m^g, whence we may either
follow the lower path to the right by Bruloi and PeyrcuiH^ or that to the
left along the slope of the Tertiva (p. 271), by Ponton with its little
lake and along the Tour de Ponton, to the (2 hrs.) Ool de Oogne {Feneire
de Cogne or Finestra Champorcher, 9285'), between the Tour de Ponton and
the Becco Costcusa. We descend into the pastoral Val Champorcher or
Camporciero, oassing the chalets of Dondenna to (31/2 hrs.) Champoreher
(4647 ' : rustic Inn) , and 'thence by Pont-Botei to (21/2 hrs.) H6ne-Bard
(p. 269).
F&ox Goons to St. Maecsl over the Col de St. Xarcex., 8 hrs., not
difficult, and practicable for mules. The route leads through the Vallone
di Oraueon to the (2V2 hrs.) chalets of Gravton (p. 271), and thence past
the little Corona* Lake to the (2 hrs.) Ool de St. marcel (Colle di Coronas.
9535'), a saddle of the Cretickdel Tesecnet. We descend through the wooded
Vallone di St. Marcel to OVs brs.) St. Marcel (p. 269>:
From Co one to Aosta over the Col d^Arhole, see p. 271. Farther to
the E., between the Pvnta Sarin and the Pvnta di Lor a., is the difficult Passo
di Garin (10,476'). — To Aiuavills over the Colle de Chaz-Siche (9249^ or the
Colle del Brine (8734'), 7-8 hrs., both attractive and without difficulty.
From Cogne to the Yal Soana across the Col della Nouva,
7-8 hrs., attractive and repaying. To Pianos , see above. Here we tarn
to the right and ascend past the chalets of Chavani* and Brulot to the
foot of the glacier. Trending to the left to avoid the glacier, we readi
(3 hrs.) the (Tol della Nouva (Colle d^Jrietta ; ^dSXY), and enjoy an admirable
vievsr of Mont Blanc and the 6. side of the Oraian Alps. Steep descent to
the chalets of Arietta, and through the Val CampigUa to (3 hrs.) Cam-
piglia, (Va hr.) Valprato, and (V2 hr.) I^neo (Inn, clean), in the Val Socna,
2V2 hrs. above Ponte (p. 275). — Two other passes to the Val Soana lead
respectively across the Colle Bardoney (92920, between the PurUa Lavina
and the Punia Rol (fatiguing), and across the Bocchetta di Rancio (9856') to
the N. of the Lavina (difticult).
To the Val Log ana (p. 275) over the Colle Grand Crou or the Colle
Monty, see p. 271. Two other difficult passes lead from the Vallone di
Valeille, the lateral valley parallel to the Vallone dTrtier, on the S. (see
above) to the Val Pianionetto and the Val Locana: the Oolle di Telleccio
(10,910') between the Grand St. Pierre (12,109'; the difficult ascent of
which may be made from the pass) and the Ondezzana; and the Oolle
Bengie (10,515'), between the Ondezzana and the Punta Sengie.
From Cogne to Val Savabanche oyer the Colle db Lauzon
(8-9 hrs. ; guide 10 fr.), eaty and attractive. From (1/2 lirO ^a^-
nontty (5503') the bridle-path ascends to the right, throngh wood,
passing a pretty fall of the Lauzon, to the (21/2 hrs.) royal shooting-
lodge (84910 and the (2 hrs.) Colle di Lanion (10,804'), with an
admirable view (still more extensive from a height a few minutes {
to the S.). We now descend , enjoying superb views of the Gran
Paradise (1.) and Grivola (r.), to (II/2 hr.) the Chalets de Leviona
(7753'). (Good walkers may cross the brook here near the small
waterfall, and descend by a steep path direct to Val.Savaranche.)
The bridle-path follows the left bank and reaches the bottom of the
Val Savaranche near the hamlet of Tignet, 1 M. to the S. of Val
Savaranche, or Degioz (5054' ; Inn), the chief village In the Val \
Savaranche (Guides, G. Blanc and G. Dayntf).
Two other somewhat fatiguing passes from Cogne to Val Savaranche
I
Alps, VAL QBISANOHE. 76. BouU, 273
are ihe Ool da rEerbetet (10,8800^ farther 8., between the Mont ffer-
betei (p. 374) and the Oran Serre, and the OoUe da Xeaonclea (10,168'),
to the K.W., between the Orivola and the Oran Nomenon (11,440^. — From
Val f^aTaranche to Geretole^ see p. 274.
The Gran Paradiao (18,320'; difficult, for adenta only, gnide 80 fr.)
may be ascended in 7«8 hrs. from (2V4 hrs.) Pont (6882'; small Inn, with
2 S.), the highest hamlet in the Val Savaranche. About V« hr. to the 8.
of Pont we ascend to the left to (4 hrs.) the Bifngio Yittorio Enumueh 11.
(98480, built by the I. A. C, above the Moncorvi Alp^ and thence cross the
OiacUr de MoncorvS to the (4 hrs.) summit. The ascent may also be made
from the N. over the Olader de Montandat^ne; or from Cogne by the mudi
more difficult route across the Glacier de la TribuUxtion.
Fkom Yal Sayarakchb to Rhi^ms Notbe-Damb over the Col
d^ Entrelor (^hia.'y guide 6 fr.). The bridle -path ascends from
Val Sayaranche by (1 M.) Creton , at first somewhat steeply , to a
royal shooting-lodge (7183') , and thence leads in zigzags along
the slope to the left , passing (1 V4 hr.) the small L>ago di Djouan
(8278') and the Lago Nero (9075') to the (1 1/2 ^r) CoUe d'Entrelor
(9870'), between the Cima di Oollien (10,116') and the Cima di
Pereia (10,110'). Fine Tlew of the Ruitor (see below) to the W.,
and of the Gran Paradise and Grivola to the E. Descent rather steep
through the Val d'Entrelor^ with the Becca di Sambeina (10,368')
on the left, to (21/2 hrs.) Ehftme Kotre Dame (6016' ; poor cantine,
or a bed at the curb's), the chief place in the Vol di Rhimey which
is enclosed by imposing glaciers. Notie-Dame is 5 hrs. from Ville*-
neuTe. The route down the valley passes Rhime 8t, Oeorges and
Introd (2886') , with the ch«Lteau of that name, where the Val di
Rheme unites with the Val Savaranche (p. 274). In descending we
hotain a fine view of Mt. Velan and the Grand- Combin to the N.
A shorter but mnre toilsome route than the Col d^Entrelor leads from
Val Savaranche to BhSme Votre-Dame across the OoUe di Sort (9780^),
which lies to the 8. of the Mt. Roletta (11,100'). — From the head of the
Val di RhSme a grand, but difficult route crosses the OoUe di Rheme or
Ooletta (10,238'), to the 8.W., between the Bee de la Travereikre (10,8680
and the 8te. Hiline (Tspnta^eina, 11,827') « crosses the Otaeier de Rhime
and passes the Lac de la Saseiere, to Tignes in the upper Is^re Valley
Cp. 266 •, 16 hrfl. from Aosta). To the S.E. the OoUe Rossetto (99180
leads to the CoUe del Nivolet and Ceresole (p. 274).
Fbom Rh^me Notre-Damb to Val Gbisanchb (and Litbroonb)
over the ColU della Finestra (6 hrs. to Val Grisanche; gnide 6 fr.).
Steep ascent to the (3V2 ^rs.) CoUe della Finestra (9238') , be-
tween (r.) the Beeca de Tei and (1.) the Becca deW Invergnan
(11,834') with fine view of the Ormtlune and the Ruitor. The
path descends through the stony Vallon del Bouc. Where it divides,
we keep to the left. On our left are the Olacier de Babuigne
and Mont Foreiat which conceals the Becca dell' Invergnan. Pass-
iTig (IV2 hr.) fhe Alp Nouva (7022'), we descend and cross the
hrook to Fomet (6677'), the highest hamlet in the Val Orisanehe ;
then to Sevey^ Mondnnge, and (2 hrs.) Val Griianohe (6468'; Oorn-
tine du Col du Mont; or a bed at the curb's), the chief village in
the valley, prettily situated at the base of the Ruitor.
[The ascent of the Suitor, an extensive, glacier>clad mountain with
Baxoekbb, Switzerland. 12th Edition. 18
1
274 Routt 7S. OEBBSOLE.
0ev«ral peaks (8. and highest peak 11,484'; N. peak 11^13^), either from
Yal Griaanohe, or better from La ThuUe on the Little &L Bernard route
(p. 266), presents no serious difficulty (gnide 40 fr.)- From La Thnile a
bridle-path leads through the deep and narrow Buitor valley to the (3 hrs.)
grand *I^ll$ 9f <Ae Buiior (6349^ whenoe we ascend to the left by a new
path to the (iVa hr.) Ooponna 8, Uargherita (80S6^, situated above the
small Suitor Lake (now drained'). Thence across the large Buitor Olaeier
to the 0 hrs.) Tete du Ruitor (11,434') , which commands a most splendid
panorama (new refuge hut of the I. A. C. on the top). — F&om Val Oki-
BANOHx TO Boubo-St. Maitbicb (p. 265 ; 15 hrs. from Aosta), over the Ool da
Hont (8678'), a tolerable bridle-path.]
The bridle-path from Val Grisanche to Liverogne (3 hrs.) leads
through the beautifully wooded Val Gilsanche, on the left bank of
the Orisanehe , to Ceres or Serri (H6t. Frassy , rustic) and Revers^
where the river disappears for a short distance under rocks. The
hamlet of Planaval lies to the left. The valley contracts to a wild
ravine. The path on Its left side skirts a predplce high above the
roaring torrent. On the opposite bank , on an apparently Inacces-
slhle rock, Is perched the ruined castle of Montmajew or Tour
d'Arboe. Near Liverogne the path quits the gorge and descends to
the left through meadows and groups of trees to the road from Ck>ur-
mayeur to Aosta (p. 265).
Fboh Villknbuvb to Cebesole ovbb thb Col db 17ivolbt (13 hrs.)-
Ascent from Villeneuve by a paved path, rough and steep. To the W. a
fine view of Hont Blanc. Opposite (% hr.) Champlong^ where we reach
the lowest part of the Val Savaranche (p. 273), the beautifully wooded Vol
di Rheme opens on the W. \ on the height between the valleys rises the
chateau of Introd (p. 273). Following the lofty right bank of the deep
valley, we next come to (3 his.) Val Savaranche (p. ^^ passes to the Vol
de Coffne and the Val di KhSme , p. 273) , then Tignet and Bien and (2V4 hrs.)
Pont^ the highest hamlet in the Val Savaranche, at the base of the Oran
ParadUo (ja. 273).
The val Savaranche divides here. We cross the brook descending
from the W. branch of the valley, and ascend a steep rocky slope in
numerous windings, passing a fine waterfall, to the (1 hr.) Croix d*Aro-
letta (7800^), a cross on the brink of a precipice, where we enjoy a
magnificent survey of the Oran Paradiso and its three peaks opposite to
us \ to the N. of which are the Becea de Montandayni, Mont Htrhetet^ and
Orivola. Traversing a desolate, and at places marshy valley, with nume-
rous traces of glacier-friction, we next pass (1 hr.) the Cfudets de Nivolei
(rustic little inn) and a small lake with a royal shooting-box which lie
to the left, and reach the (1 hr.) Ool de Nivolet (8662'), a narrow ridge of
rock, with a superb view of the Levanna (11,943'), rising on the opposite
side of the deep Val d^Oreo. To the W. are the lofty Col de la Oalise
and the Cima di Boueson ; to the N. the chain of flie Oram Paradito, (Boute
across the Colle Rosseito into the Val di RhSme^ see p. 273.)
Our route descends a nearly perpendicular rock, in many windings,
to a bleak valley with several small tarns and a few chalets, and thence
by steep zigaags on the left side of the brook with its numeroos falls
to (2 hrs.) Chapis, or Chiapili di Sopra^ the highest hamlet in the Val Locana^
or valley of the Oreo, and (2 hrs.) —
Oeresole Reals (Sacs'; * StahiHmentOy from 20th June to end of Sept.,
pens. 8 fr.; Alb. della Levanna)^ with chalybeate baths, and a fine watei^
faU in the vicinity.
[A very fine, but fatiguing route leads hence (or from Valsavaranche
direct) in 10 hrs. over the Col db la OalAbb , or OoUse (dSSO*), to Tignet
(p. 266). Alpine quarters at the chalets of Serrue.]
SEMBRANOHER. 77, BouU, 275
Below the Baths we enter (I hr.) a wild ravine (Sealart di Ceresole),
through which the Oreo careers in a series of cascades. The path is hewn
in the rock and descends in steps. Xear the (1 hr.) dirty village of
NoMca (8488'), is the beantifol fall of the Noaschetta. The ralley is strewn
with huge masses of rock. Farther down, on the left, opens the Val
Piantanetto^ which runs np towards the Grand 8t. Pierre. (Passage of the
Col di Telleeeio to Co^ne, see p. 272.) Then (2 hrs.) Loeana (Cervo, unpre-
tending), a poor village, whence a carriage-road leads down the fertile
lower region of the valley (vines, walnuts, chestnuts) to (71/2 M.) Ponte
(*Al Valentino), an old town with the ruins of two castles, most pictur-
esquely situated at the union of the Vol Soana (p. 272) with the Val
Loeana. Omnibus daily to Ouorffne. from which there is a railway to
Rharolo and Turin (see BaedekerU Northern Italyy
77. From Maxtigny to Aosta. Oreat St. Bernard.
16 Vs hrs.: From Martigny to the Hospice 11, thence to Aosta 5V2 hrs.
(from Aosta to the Hospice 8, thence to Martigny 9 hrs.) \ road to C23 H.)
the Gantine de (Proz (p. 277), thence to (4 hrs.) St. Bemy bridle-path ;
road again to Aosta (13 H.). Guide quite unnecessary. As the ascent to
(12 H.) Orsi^res is slight, the traveller had better drive thus far, or to
Bourg-St-Pierre, then walk to St. Bemy, and drive from St. Bemy to Aosta,
and so accomplish the journey in one day. Diligence daily from Martigny
to Orsi^res in 3 (back in 2) hrs. (5 fr. 40 c). One-horse oarr. to Orsi^res
15, two-horse 20, Bourg-St-Pierre 26 or 40, Gantine de Proz 30 or 46 fr. ;
if the horses are ridden from the Gantine de Proz to the Hospice, one**
horse carr. for 1-2 pers. 40, 3 pers. 60, two-horse carr. for 4 pers. 60 fr. —
Chars-a-banc8 and saddle-mules are generally to be had at the Gantine:
Mule to the hospice 5, from Liddes 8fr. and fee; from Bourg-St-Pierre to
St. Bemv 16 fr. — One-hor$e carr. from St. Bemy to Aosta, 1 pers. 10,
2 pers. 12, 3 pers. 15 fr. (from Aosta to St. Bemy, 1-2 pers., 15 fr.).
The Orefltt St. Bernard Boute , though less attractive than most of
the other Alpine passes, traverses some very fine scenery, and is a direct
and convenient approach to Italy (Aosta, Courmayeur) from the Rhone
Valley. A visit to the Hospice is also interesting. Those who do not in-
tend going farther may return through the Val Ferret (p. 279).
Martigny J see p. 224. Beyond Martigny-Bourg (p. 224) we cross
the (IY2M.) Drance, 4 min. beyond which the road to Chamonix
diverges to the right (p. 258). The St. Bernard road leads through
the deep ravine of the Drance, by Le Brocard and Le Borgeau, to
(3 M.) Les Valeties (1978' ; Restaur, des Gorges du Durnant).
*€h)rges dn Snrnant (from Martigny and back 4 hrs., one-horse carr. 7,
two -horse 10 fr.). A road leads from Les Valettes to the right to the
(1 M.) entrance of a rocky go:i%e, through which the Vurnant is precipitat-
ed in 14 falls (made accessible by a wooden gallery 880 yds. in length,
(adm. 1 fr. ; Inn by the entrance). From the upper end of the gorge the
path ascends to the Champex bridle-path (p. 276). ^ Fine view from the
hill of Lombard (2888', see below), ascended to the left from the lower gdA
of the gorge in V2 hr., by a shady path.
Beyond (8/4 M.) Bovemier (2037') the Drance traverses a wood-
ed gorge, where its course is impeded by huge masses of rock,
especially near the (IV2M.) Oalerie de la Monnaie (2362'), a tunnel
70 yds. long. In 1818 a great fall of rock was caused here by the
bursting of a lake in the Vol de Bagnet (p. 281). At (IV2 M.) Sem-
brancher (2330'; Inn) the Vtanee d'Entremont, descending from the
St. Bernard, unites with the Drance de Bagnes (p. 280). On a hill
stands a ruined castle. To the right rises the abrupt Caiogne (8460').
18*
276 BouU77. LIDDBS. From Martiffny
From Mabtiomy to Ssmbbahchbb, over the Hont Chemia, 4 hrg.,
interesting, especially in the reverse direction (fine views of the Rhone
Valley). From Martigny-Bonrg the ^th ascends to the left, through
wood, by Chemin (Ten Bas to Chemin (STSe*), leads to the right past iron-
mines to Vence (3701'), and descends in windings to Sembrancher.
Fbom Sbmbbanchbb to Saxon over the Pcu dn Letu (5446') 5 hrs., a
bridle-path. — The PierrtdrVoir (8123': guide 7 fr.) may be ascended
from Sembrancher in 6-6 hrs. (comp. p. 224).
12 M. OrBiferes (2894'; H6t. dcs Alpes), 4 M. farther, at the
mouth of the Ferret Valley (p. 265), has a curious old tower.
Fbom Mabtignt to Obsij^bbs bt thb Yal GHAUrsx (51/9 hrs.), bridle-
path, more interesting and not much longer than the high-road. Road to
(4'/2 M.) Les Valettes^ see p. 275. Here we ascend to the right (or we may
go through the Gorges du Dumant), and ascend gradually through pasture
and wood, by Lombard (p. 275), Crettet and Champex (Pens. A Restaur,
du Lac, rustic), to (the (23/4 hrs.) top of the pass (4903'), to the S.W.
of Mont Catoane (p. 275). The path then descends past the small Lae de
Champex (4807'; Restaur.), and leads to the left by Biollay to (IV4 hr.)
Ortihres, In the reverse direction this route is not so pleasant, owing to
the steep ascent from Orsi^res to the Gol. — From Champex an ascent of
S hrs. through the monotonous Val d^Arpette to the *Col det Ecandiet
(9(XX)'); magnificent survey thence of the Glacier du Trieni, one of the
finest views of the kind in Switzerland.
From Orsi^res to Courmatfeur over the Col Ferret, see p. 265. — Passes
to Chamonix (Cols du Tour, du Chardonnet^ d^Argentiirey etc.), see p. 254. —
The Oabane d'Orny (88350 may be reached from Orsi^res in 6 hours.
Very interesting, and without difficulty or danger, thence to ascend the
Glacier d'Ornp to the *n^v6' of the Glacier du Trient (p. 258) and the (3 hrs.)
FetUtre de Saleinaz (10,860'); fine view — Guides, Henri Copt, Fr. Biselx^
and others.
The road crosses the Brance , which is seldom visible in its
deep bed, and ascends in a long bend (which the old bridle-
path cuts off). On entering the upper part of the valley we
obtain an admirable view of Mont Velan (p. 277), which with
its snow and ice fills the background. The slopes of the broad
valley are covered with pastures and corn-fields. Between Fon-
taine-De880U8 (3800') and Bive Haute (4010') the road again de-
scribes a long curve which walkers may cut off. It passes the
chapel of St. Laurent, and reaches (43/^ M.) —
16^/4 M. Llddes (4390'; Union; Angleterre; mule to the hospice
8 fr. and fee), a considerable village. On the left rise the finely
shaped Merignier (10,4030 and the Maiaons Blanches (12,137').
Above Liddes is the chapel of St. Etienne. At AUhvea we cross the
brook of that name, coming from the Olaeier de Boveyre, pass the
chapel of Notre-Dame de Lorette on the left, and reach (3Y4M.) —
20 M. Boorg-St-Pierre, or St -Pierre- Mont -Joux (5358'; ^Au
DSjeunerde NapolSon')^ a large village at the mouth of the Valsorey,
with a church of the 11th cent. (On the wall by the tower is
a Roman milestone.)
ExcDBsioys. (Good guides, Dan., Eman.^ and Julet Bailey.) The Ttte
de Bote (2V8 hrs.; guide 6fr.; mules also) commands the Mont Blanc and
Combin group, and the Val d'Entremont below.
A good path leads through the interesting Valsoray, on the right
bank of the Vateorey^ to the (2Vs hrs.) Chalets d^Amont (71910i in a grand
situation. The background is formed by the Glacier du Valsorey, and
u
,1
to Aosta. ST. BERNARD HOSPICE. 77. BouU, 277
others uniting with it, (1.) that of Sonadwir descending from the Orand-
Oombin, and (r.) that of Teeudet. Beautiful view of the dazzling snows
of Mont Velan and the jagged rocks of the Luisettet. — The night is passed
at these chalets by travellers about to cross the Col des Maitont Blan-
ches (12,005') or the Col du Sonadon (11,4470 to the Val de Bagnes (p. 282),
or the Col du VaUorey or des Chamois (10,2130 to the Val Ollomont (p. 282).
— The Qrand Combin or ConUnn de Qraffeneire (14,163') may be ascended
from the Chalets d'Amont by the Col des Maisons Blanches^ or better by
the Olader du Sonadon, in 8-9 hrs. (grand, but difficult, for experts only^
guide 40 fr.). Ascent easier from the Cabans de PanossUre (comp. p. 282).
Beyond St. Pierre the road crosses the deep gorge of the Valso-
rey, which foims a waterfall above the bridge. It was here that
Napoleon, daring his famons passage of the Alps with 30,000 men
on 15th-21stMay, 1800, encountered the greatest difficulties. The
road, hewn in the rock, and avoiding the steep parts of the old
route, traverses the forest of St. Pierre and the DifiU de Charreire.
Fine scenery ; several falls of the Drance. At the (3M.) —
23 M. Cantine de Pros (5982'), a lonely inn, at the beginning of
the Plan de Prozj the highest pasture in the valley, the road ends.
To the E. rises the snowy HontYelan (12,353'; difficult; for experts
only, guide 26 fr.). The starting-point is either the Cantine de Pro/.
(6 hrs. to the top, crossing the Olacier de Proz^ very steep at places), or
the Chalets d'Amoni (p. !£76; ascent rather longer, but less difficult).
Above the chalets we ascend a ^chemin^e' to the E. moraine of the
Olacier du Valsorey, cross the glacier to the E. rocky slope of Mt. de la
Oouille, and mount (an interesting clamber) to the upper and grandest
part of the glacier ; cross it , ascend another chemin^e, traverse masses
of rock, and reach the summit in 6-7 hrs. in all. Magnificent view: N.,
as far as the Lake of Geneva; S., to the Val d'Aosta. Immediately to the
W. towers Mont Blanc; to the N.E. the Grand- Combin.
The BsiDiiE Path ascends the pastures of the Plan de Proz for
20 mm. (with Mont Velan j the Olaeier de Prot, and its large mo-
raines on the left), traverses the Pas de Marengo^ a rocky defile,
and reaches (174hr.) Ho^jjitoZet (6890'), two stone chalets and an
Alpine dairy in a broader part of the valley. It next (20min.)
crosses the Drance by the Pont Nudrit (7336'), recrosses it farther on
by the Pont Troncket (7457'), and leads through the dreary Grande
Combe (ValUe des Morts) to the (8/4 hr.) Hospice.
The Hogpice of St. Bernard (8120'), situated on the pass, con-
sists of two large buildings. One contains the church^^the dwellings
of the brethren, and numerous rooms for travellers ; the other and
smaller (Hdtel de St. Louis) is a refuge in case of fire, and contains
the store-house and lodging for poor wayfarers. On arriving, strangers
are welcomed by one of the brethren, who conducts them to a room
and presides over the meals (at 12 and 6 or 7 ; Frid. and Sat. are
fast-days). Travellers are boarded and lodged gratuitously, but few
will deposit in the alms-box ('tron^on pour les pauvres*, to the left
in the church), less than they would have paid at a hotel.
In 962 St. Bernard de Menthon (p. 243) founded the monastery here.
The inmates now consist of 10-15 Augustinian monks and 7 attendants
[fnaroniers)^ whose office it is to receive and lodge strangers gratuitously,
and to render assistance to travellers in danger during the snowy season,
which here lasts nearly nine months. In this work of benevolence they
278 Baute 77. ST. BERNABD HOSPICE. From MofUgny
are aided by the famous St. Bernard dogs, whose kennels are worth
visiting. Their keen sense of smell enables them to track and discover
travellers buried in the snow, numbers of whom have been rescued by
these noble and sagacious animals. The stock is said to have come ori-
ginally from the Spanish Pyrenees, but the genuine old breed is extinct.
The brotherhood of St. Bernard consists of about 40 members. Some
of the monks minister in the Hospice on the Simplon (p. 288); others
perform ecclesiastical functions. The sick and aged have an asylum at
Martigny. St. Bernard is the highest winter habitation in the Alps. Hum'
boldt in his ^Kosmos' mentions that the mean temperature at the Hospice
of St. Bernard (45* N. latitude) is 30" Fahr. (in winter 15", spring 25-,
summer 48", autumn 32**), and that such a low temperature would only be
found on the sea-level at a latitude of 75" (the 8. Gape of Spitsbergen).
The monastery was very wealthy in the middle ages. The benefi-
cence of its object was widely recognised by extensive grants, chiefly by
the emperors of Germany, and gifts from various parts of Christendom ; but
it was afterwards impoverished by various vicissitudes. The d(>40,000fr.
required for its annual support are in part derived from the revenues of the
monastery, and in part from annual collections made in Switzerland \ the
gifts of travellers, it must be said with regret, form a very insignificant
portion of the sum. Of late years 16-20,000 travellers have been annually
accommodated, while the sum they have contributed barely amounts to what
would be a moderate hotel -charge for 1000 guests. The expenses of the
establishment are increasing. Provisions are generally brought from Aosta,
and in July, August, and September about twenty horses are employed
daily in the transport of fuel from the Val Ferret (p. 279), 4 hrs. distant.
The traveller will hardly quit the hospice without a feeling of venera-
tion and compassion for this devoted fraternity. They generally begin
their career at the age of 18 or 19. After about fifteen years'* service the
severity of the climate has undermined their constitutions, and they are
compelled to descend with broken health to the milder climate of Mar-
tigny or some other dependency. Amid the pleasure and novelty of the
scene, the traveller is too apt to forget the dreariness of the eight or nine
months of winter, when all the wayfarers are poor, when the cold is in-
tense, the snow of great depth, and the dangers from storms frequent
and imminent. It is then that tilie privations of these heroic men are most
severe, and their services to their fellow-creatures most invaluable.
During the Italian campaigns of 1798, 1799, and 1800, the pass was
crossed by several hundred thousand soltuers, French and Austrian. In
1799 the Austrians endeavoured to pass the hospice, but after several
fierce engagements the French remained masters of the pass, and kept a
garrison of 180 men in the hospice for a whole year. Napoleon^s famous
passage has already been mentioned (p. 277). The Romans used this route
in B.C. 100.. After the foundation of Augtuta Praetoria 8alaMorum (Aosta,
B.C. 26) it ' became* more frequented. Constantino caused the road to be
improved in 839. The Lombards made the passage about 547; Bernard,
an uncle of Charlemagne, marched an army by this route into Italy in
773, and, according to some, gave his name to the pass.
The present substantial edifice dates from the middle of the 16th
cent., the church from 1680. The walls of the dining-room are hung
with engravings and pictures, the gifts of grateful travellers. In the
library on the upper floor is a collection of ancient and modern
coins, relics found in the environs (fragments of votive brass tablets
offered to Jupiter PcEninus after escape from danger, statuettes,
etc.), and a small natural history collection. The visitors' books con-
tain many well-known names. A chapel to the left of the entrance
to the church contains the monument of General Desaix , who fell
at the battle of Marengo in 1800. Relief by Moitte.
Near the hospice is the Morgue^ a receptacle for bodies found
io Ao8ta. ST. BEMY. 77. SouU. 279
in the snow. The small lake to the W. of the monastery is some-
tunes coated with ice on snmmer mornings. — Towards the E. of the
hospice we observe the snow-capped Mont Vtlan, adjoined on the
left by the Comhin da Corbasaihre (12,2120.
Tbe ^Ohanalette (9476'; iV«br^ steep at places ; guide necessary). K.W.
of the Hospice, the Pointe des Lacerandes {Pic de Droncu; 9676 ; ^Vs-
3 hrs., with guide ^ trying), farther to the N.W., and the Hont Mort (9403'),
1V« hr. to the S.E., all conunand magnificent views of Hont Blanc, the
Graian Alps, Monte Bosa, and (K.) the Bernese Alps, while the Hont
Velan and Grand-Combin are quite near.
Fbom the Hospios to Habtiont oveb the Col db FenBtbb (9 hrs.)?
recommended as a return-route to persons visiting the Hospice from Har^
tigny. From the path to the Vacherie (see below) the bridle-path (fuide
advisable) diverges to the right, 20min. from the Hospice, and ascends rather
steeply to the (1 hr.) Ool de 7en6tre (8866' ; fine view). It then descends
over d^ris and sometimes snow, past the three small Lae* d€ Fenitr^^
to the chalets of (iV4 hr.) Plan la Chaud and (1 hr.) Ferret (5566'), where it
unites with the route from the Col Ferret (p. 284). — Feom the Hospice to
Godbhatbub (9-10 hrs.) the direct route is across the Col de Fenitre and
the Col Ferr«t. In order to reach the Ool Ferret we need not descend
from the Col de Fengtre to Ferret, but (guide advisable) beyond the third
lake we turn to the left, descend steep grassy slopes to a bridge over the
Drance, follow Its left bank for a time, and then ascend on the right bank
of the brook coming from the Col de Fenetre, until (after about 50 min.) we
can cross it. A steep ascent of V2 br. more brings us to the Col Ferret
route (p. 264; from the Hospice to the Col Ferret, 5 hrs.).
On the N.W. side of the lake on the St. Bernard Pass , near a
small bTOok , are stones marking the Italian frontier. On the ad-
jacent Plan de Jupiter once rose a temple to Jupiter Poeninus.
The monntain has thence derived its Italian name of Monte Jove,
locally Mont Joux, and the range is called the Pennine Alps. The
path rounds an angle of rock and descends in a wide bend to La
Vacherie, a green pasture, where the cattle of the hospice graze, with
several chalets, and the Cantine (7270'), or road-menders' house.
To the W. rises the conical Pain de Sucre (9515'). The path zig-
zags down the left side of the valley, and then descends gradually
to (1 hr.) St. Bemy (5353' ; poor inn), the first Italian village, where
the road begins. Carriages and mules, see p. 275. The first house
on the right is the custom-house.
Fbom St. Remy to the Hospice (2 hrs.). From the (IV2 hr.) Cantine
mentioned above walkers may proceed to the right^ direct towards the
saddle of the mountain. The culminating point is indicated by a cross
on a rock, soon after passing which the lake and the hospice come in sight.
Guide (2-2V3fr-) supe^uous; mule 3fr., and IVafr. for the attendant.
Fbom St. Bbmt to Coubmateub over the Ool de la Serena (7580')i
9-10 hrs., fatiguing and somewhat uninteresting. (From the hospice over
the Col de FenStre and Col de Ferret preferable, see above.)
Road to Aosta (13 M.). Cultivation on both sides of the
valley begins at (2^/4 M.) St. Oyen, and becomes richer at (1 M.)
StronbleB (4198'; Auberge Nationat). The road crosses the Buthier
here, and skirts the right side of the valley, soon running high
above the river. Opposite, on the slope, is the church of Allein,
2M. Les Ecftct;eno2 (4050'), a hamlet; IV2M. La Cluae (3942'),
a solitary house. By (1 M.) the village of Condemine a view is
2B0 Sout€ 78. GHABLE. From Maragu^
iLigolosed of the long Vol PcUina, with the snov-el&d MofU CoUon
(p. 300) in the baekground. To the N. tower the xonnded summit
of Mont Velan and the imposing pyramid of the Grand Comhiti,
The road descends in long windings to {1^2^-^ Gignod (^3260'),
with a sqnare Roman tower, most picturesquely situated opposite
the entrance to the Yal Pellina from which the main arm of the
Buthier descends. Far below is the white church-tower of Roysan,
and farther up lies the village of Valpelline. (Passes from the Val
Pellina to the Val St. Barthflemy, Val de Bagnes, Val d'H^rens,
and to Zermatt, pp. 268, 282, 299, 316.)
The scenery now assumes a softer character ; walnuts, chestnuts,
vines, and maize thrive luxuriantly. The road, running high up on the
right side of the valley, gradually descends. Before us the fine pyra-
mid of the Orivola is visible for a time. To the left is the blunted
cone of Mt. Mary (9230'). Beyond (3 M.) Slgnayes, where the ex-
tensive vineyards of Aosta begin, the three-peaked Rtutor appears
on the right. Before us rise the Becea di Nona and Mt. Emilius;
to the left, the S. spurs of Mte. Rosa. Then (2V4 M.) —
13 M. Aoita, see p. 266.
78. From Maxtigny to Aosta over the Col de Fenitre.
Val de Bagnes.
Comp. Mtq>, p. 276.
From Martigny to Hauyoisin about 8 hrs. (Sembrancher 8 H., Cbable
41/2 M., Champsec 2Vs M., Lourtier V2 br., Hauvoisin 21/2 brs.)* To Lourtier
a good road (one-horse carr. 18 fr.); thence a bridle-path. — Travellers
going to Aosta over the Col de FsnAtrb (guide 18 fr. *, Justin Felley; Jtutin,
SirapMn^ and Etienne Bessard^ L. Betse ; F. Ferrodin ; Maur. Troiilet, and
others at Chable) should pass the night at Hauvoisin, or at Ghermontane
2V4 hrs. farther up. From Ghermontane to the pass iV2, Valpelline 4, Aosta
2 hrs. Good carriage-road from Valpellina to Aosta.
From Martigny to (8 M.) Sembrancher, see p. 275. We diverge
here to the left from the St. Bernard road , cross the Dranee, and
follow the right bank of the Drance de Bagnes to (4^2 M.) Chable
(2743'; H6t. du Grand-Combin, moderate; H6t. Giitroz, mediocre),
the capital of the Vol de Bagnes, picturesquely situated. In the
background to the S.E. the snow-clad Ruinette (12,727Q; to the
left Mont Pleureur (12,159') and the Glacier de GUtroz.
The Pierre- h-Voir ^128') may be ascended hence in 5 hrs. fguide
6fr.^ comp. p. 224). — Over the Col des Etablons to Riddes, see p. 283.
We now follow the left bank of the Drance, pass Montagnier on
the right bank, and reach Verseghre and (21/2 M.) Champsec (2966';
Restaur. Corthey). Here we cross the Drance and ascend to (72 ^^-^
Lourtier (3657'; rustic inn), where the road ends. Between Lourtier
and Mauvoisin the Drance forms several falls; at (1 hr.) Granges
Neuves (4843') it receives a large contribution from the Glacier de
Corbassi^re. Then (20 min.) Fionney (4910').
To the Oabane de Panossidr* (SOOCj a most interesting excursion (from
Fionney, by the Alps of Corlatsikre, 41/2 hrs., with guide \ from Kauvoisin,
to Aosta. VAL DB BAGNES. 78, Route. 281
OTOT ihe CoJ d€ Flanffolin or the Co{ des Otanes^ 9S5ff, in 3ysr4 hM.)' This
dub-hut, finely situated on the margin of the huge Oorbassiire Olader, is
the starting-point for the Combin de Corbauiire (12,212'), the Tountelon
Blane (12,182), the Co2 des Maitont Blemchet (p. 282), etc. The Grand-
Ooikbin (14,163'; 7-8 hrs.) is best ascended from this point, but it requires
experience and a steady head (comp. pp. 377, 282).
Passbs. To the £. of Fionney a fatiguing route crosses the Alp Lt
CrH (7577) to the Ool dn Or«t (10,329'; splendid view), on the S. side of
the Pamra^ (10,702') ; descent over the Glaeier des Bcwlaies to the (6-7 hrs.)
Alp La Bdrma in the Val des Dix (1 hr. below lAappepy p. 298). A
similar pass is the Gol de Sevrett (10,500'), between the Parrain and
Rosa Blanche ; ascent by Alp Seweu and the small glacier of that name
to the (4V« hrs.) col, with tine view; descent to (2 hrs.) La Banna (guide
over the Col du Crgt, or Gol du Sevreu, and the. Col de la Meina to
Evolena 18 fr.). — Two other passes (trying, for mountaineers only), one
the Col de Oleuson (9567'), to the W. of the Rosa Blanche (10,965'; an ad-
mirable point, easily ascended from the pass in 1'/* hr.), the other tiie
Ool da louTie (9510^, to the 8.£. of the Moni Fort (10,9*^'), lead to the
IJT.E. to the glacier of the Grand Diseri. Descent thence to the (8-9 hrs.)
Alp CUsuson i&S(7b'} in the Val de Nendazy whence a good bridle-path leads
to (3hrs.) Nendasi^^) and (2V3hrs.) Sum (p. 283). From the Col de Cleuson
the traveller may prefer to cross the Grand Desert towards the K.E. and
the Col de Pnaftewri (9748') to the Val des Dix.
Above Fionney the valley becomes narrower and wilder. The
bridle-path leads on the right bank of the Drance by Bonatchesse
to the (1 V2 ^^0 bridge of ManvoiBin, or MontvoUin (5570'), span-
ning the Drance, which flows 100' below. Wild scenery; to the
left the precipitous Mt. PUureur, 12,155'). On the opposite bank,
1/4 hr. higher, is the B6tel du Oietroz (5847').
About 1 3f . to the S. of the hotel, on the right side of the valley, is
the Ccueade du CHdtrot, the discharge of the Glacier de Oiitroz, which
has receded much of late. Formerly it extended down into the valley,
and at the beginning of the present century had so impeded the Drance
that a considerable lake was formed. In 1818 this sheet of water burst
its barriers and caused tenrible devastation (p. 275). A similar catastrophe
occurred in 1595. The glacier is now hardly visible from the valley, but
a good view of it may be obtained from the Pierre d Vire (7823'), as-
cended by the chapel behind the inn in IV2 hr.
The path again descends to the Drance and intersects the former
bed of the lake. It niext passes the chalets of (I72 ^r.) Petite Cher-
montane (6290') and Vingt-huit. By the (Y2 l^r.) chalets of Boussine
(6570'), we come in sight of the glaciers; to the E. the Glacier de
Breney^ which has mucb receded, is visible high above us. The chalets
of Lancey (6716) lie on the right bank. The path then crosses th.e
moraines and tbe flat lower end of the Glacier du Mont Durand, and
(3/4 hr.) reaches the Alp Grande Chermontane (7313'), grandly
situated at the foot of the vast Glacier d'Otemma. The chalets here
are usually occupied from the middle of July to the middle of August
only (night-quarters). Opposite, on the right side of the valley, is
the finely situated Alp Chonnrion (7907' ; 1 hr. from Chermontane).
The head of the valley is encircled from W. to E. by the Tour de
Boussine (12,590'), Grand Combin (14,163'), MontAvril (10,960'),
AfontO«W (11,540'), Tot*m< de Boiie (10,9720, a,n^ Points d'Otem-
ma (11,1350-
ExcDBSioNB. The *Kont Avril (10,960*), from Chermontane by the
282 Route 78. COL DE FENfeTRK.
Col de FenStre, 3 bn., easy (see below; guide 10 fr.)* — The Tonr de
BottSdine (12,690'), by the Glaeier du Mont Diirand,B hra., not easy (guide
26 fr.). -> The arand Oombin or Qraffeneire (14,163'), by the Col du Bona-
don (see below), in 10 hrs. ., difficalt (guide 40 fr.; comp. p. 281). —
Kont Blane de Beilon (12,700'), from MauYoisin, by the Glacier de Oiitrot^
9-10 hrs. (guide 90 fr.) ; or better from iAofpey^ over the Col de SeUon^ in
8-9 hrs.; magnificent view. <— Xont Pleureur (12,160'), from Mauvoisin,
by the Alp Oiitroz, 8 hrs. (guide 15 fr.), not very difficult. — The PoMe
d''Otemma (11,135'), from Ghanrion (6 hrs., guide 12 fr.); TimmeUm BUme
(12,180*; 8 hrs., 15 fr.); Combin de Oorbauiire (12,210^; 10 hrs. , 20 fr.);
La Salle (11,946': 7 hrs., 12 fr.); La Luette (11,627'; 7-8 hrs., 15 fr.); JSter-
pontine (12,110'; 10 hrs., 20 fr.), and Ruineite (12,727*; 10 hrs., 30 fr.) may
also be ascended by mountaineers (distances and tariff from Mauvoiain).
Passbs. Over the Col du Sonadon (11,447') to Bourg-St-Pierre, a
difficult glacier-pass (11-12 hrs., guide 30 fr.): from (^ermontane to the
W., up the Olader du Mont Durand to the pass, on the 6. side of the
Grand Combin; descent over the Glacier du Bonadon to the Valeoreji
(p. 276) and Bourg-Bt-Pierre (p. 276). — Over the Ool des Xaiaons Blanches
(11,240), 12-13 hrs. from Mauvoisin or Fionney to Bourg-St-Pierre, grand,
but difficult (guide 25 fr. ; spend night in the Cdbane de Pamoesiire^ p. 277).
«- To the S., besides the Col de FenStre (see below), another route crosses
the Ool de Or Ate Seohe (9475'), traversing the lower end of the Glaeier
d^Otemma and the Glacier de Crete Biche^ to the Valpellina (to Valpellina
9 hrs., guide 18 fr.). — To the Val d'H^r^ence over the Ool de Seilon
(10,663'; 53/4 hrs. from Mauvoisin to Liappey; 6V4 hrs. to Arolla). by the
Glacier de Giitroe and the crevassed Glacier de Durand or Beilon, fatiguing
(better from Lancev over the Glaeier de Lyrerose and the Col du Mont
Bouge^ comp. p. 300). Over the Ool de Breney (11,975'; 8-9 hrs. from
Chermontane to the Alp Beilon, p. 298), difficult. From the Col de Breney
the *Pigno d^ Arolla (12,472'), a superb point of view, may be ascended in
1/2 hr. (comp. p. 300). From the Glacier Durand or Seilon we may cross
the Col de Biedmatten or the Peu de Chbtree to the E. to Arolla (see p. 300).
— Over the Ool de Yaaevey (10,705'; 6-7 hrs. from Mauvoisin to Liappey),
interesting, and not very difficult. — To Arolla over the GUicier d^Otemma
and Col de Chermontane (11 hrs.), see p. S(X); Col de VEveque (13 hrs.),
see p. 3(X). — From the upper (Glacier d'Otemma over the Col d^Otemma
(about 11,025') or the Col de la Beuse d' Arolla or Col d'Oren (10,637) to Val-
pellina, difficult (9-10 hrs. from Chermontane to Praray€; guide 20 fr.).
The route from Gheimontane to the (1^2 ^0 Col de Fextfitre
(9140') ascends at first over pastures and then ovei loose stones
and moraine-deposits, skirting the Glacier de.Fenttte. To the left
rises the MU QtU (iiMO') ; to the right the Mont Ai;rW (10,9610,
a splendid point of view (1V2-^ ^^s. from the pass ; no difficulty).
The col commands a fine view of the Val cTOllomont and the Graian
Alps (p. 270). A bridle-path descends past the chalets ofBalme and
Vaux to (3 hrs.) Ollomont (4385'; small Inn) and (% hr.) Vol-
pelline (3129' \ two small inns), from which a good road leads to
(6 M.) Aosta (p. 266).
79. From Martigny to Intra on the Lag^ Maggplore
over the Simplon.
Comp. Maps, pp. 276, 334, 388, 398, 414.
116 M. Railway from Martigny to (47^^ V,) Brieg in 2V2-3 hrs., fares
9fr. 50. 6fr. 30, 4fr. 75c. (from Lausanne to Brieg in 6-6 hrs., fares
16 fr. 70, 11 fr. 30, 8fr. 35c.; from Geneva to Brieg in 8V« hrs., fares
23 fr. 30, 15fr. 80, 11 fr. 65 c.). — Dilioknob from Brieg to Intra (68 M.^
twice daily in summer, in I8V2 hrs. (on one trip the night is spent on
SIGN. 79. Route. 283
the Simplon; fares 23 fr. 65, coap^ 81 fr. 40 c). Grayellona is tbe junc-
tion for Stresa (see p. 291 ; change of carriages ; diligence in 1 hr.)> — A
Railway is being bnilt between Dome d'Ossola and Gravellona, and is now
open from Gravellona to Orta and Novara (Milan), see pp. 291, 422. —
Diligence-seata , see Introd. IX. The diligence starts from the station at
Brieg, and then stops at the post-office. Luggage to be sent by post over
the Simplon must be booked the previous night. It cannot be conveyed
beyond Iselle (Italian frontier, p. 289) unless the keys are sent with it
to the custom-house there. Travellers from Italy to Switzerland by this
route should apply in Intra, not to the Italian diligences, which ply only
to Domo d'Ossola, but to the Swiss diligences. Places in the coupe and
banquette can be booked in advance only at Intra. It is advisable to
bring provisions. — Stbamboat from Intra to Laveno and from Stresa to
Arona, see E. 108. — Extra-Post with two horses from Brieg to Arona
169 fr. 20 c., with three horses 239 fr. 50 c. — Garbiagss. With one horse
(for 2 pers.) from Brieg to Berisal 15, with two horses (2*4 pers.) 25, with
three horses (4-6 pers.) 35 fr.; to the Hospice 25, 45, 55 fr.; Simplon 30, 60,
70 fr.; Domo 65, 100, 130 fr.; Pallanza, Intra, Baveno, or Stresa. 85, 150,
200 fr. (Return - carriages frequently to be had for less.)
Kartlgny (IdbSQ, see p. 224. (Fiom Geneva or Lausanne to
Maitigny, see BB. 65, 69.)
The Rhone Valley from Martigny to Brieg presents few attractions
to pedestrians. The valley, averaging 21/2 M. in width, formerly showed
many traces of the disastrous inundations of the Shone ^ or Rhodan^ or
Batten (p. 292), as the river is called in the Vallaisian patois and its
tributaries, but since the extensive improvements recently effected in the
river-channels, vineyards, meadows, fruit-gardens, and potato-fields are
gradually spreading. The valley is enclosed on both sides by lofty
mountain-chains, at the foot of which (especially on the right or N. bank
beyond Sierre) vines flourish. Snow-dad peaks rise here and there from
the lateral valleys to the S. A kind of gnat , with black gauzy wings, is
a source of great annoyance in the marshy parts of the lower valley, es-
pecially in the evening ; bedroom-windows should therefore be closed early.
At Martigny the Rhone Valley fonns a right angle. The railway,
not far from the left bank of the river, runs straight to the (5 M.)
Baths of Saxon (1572'; *Qr.-B6t. dea Bains). The Etabllssement
de Bains (water impregnated with iodine) lies */4 M. to the right of
the station. The village, commanded by a rained castle, is pictnr-
esquely situated in a gorge at the foot of the Pierre-k-Voir.
Ascent of the PUrre-tt- Voir (8124*) from Saxon 5-6 hrs. , a bridle-path
(guide 6, horse and man 12 fr.); see p. 224. — To Ghable in the Val de
Bagnes (p. 280) from Saxon (or from Riddes, see below), a bridle-path over
the Col des Etablons (7130'; fine view) in 7 hrs. (guide unnecessary). — To
Sembremcher over the Pcu du Lens^ see p. 276.
On a hill on the right bank of the Bhone is Saillon, with a ruin-
ed castle. The train crosses the Bhone (1572^) beyond (8M.) RiddeSy
and the Liseme at (11 M.) Ardon (Hot. du Pont). Ardon, Vetroz,
and Conthey, all yielding excellent wine (see p. 2d0), lie at the foot
of the hills to the left. The train crosses the Morge,
151/2 M. Sion, Ger. Sitten (1710'; pop. 4871; Poste, B., L., &
A. 31/2, B. 3 fr., omnibus 60c.; H6t. duMidi, moderate), theBoman
Sedunum^ the capital of Canton Valais, -which formed the French De-
partement du Simplon in 1810-15, lies on the SionnCy which flows
through it in an artificial channel covered with beams (^Orand-pont,
forming the principal street). From a distance the town , with its
castles on isolated hiUs, has a handsome appearance. On the height
284 BouU 79. SIEBRE. From Martigny
to the N. are the rains of the episcopal castle of Totir&tUon (2149'],
erected in 1294, and humed down in 1788 (reached in 20nun. by
the Rue du Chateau, to the left by the town>haU) ; extensive view,
down to Martigny, and up toLeuk. On the iowei hill to the right, on
the site of a Romanfort, stands the old castle of • Valeria (2038'), sur-
rounded by towers and other buildings , with the Church of St. Ca-
tharine , founded in the 9th cent. , and containing pictures and ra-
rious curiosities (shown by a woman who lives at the castle and is
well informed). Close to the town, near Xourbillon, is the castle of
Majoria, which was also burned down with part of th« town in 1788.
In the town itself the Gothic-Romanesque Cathedral (tower the
oldest part) and the elegant church of St. Thiodule adjoining it are
objects of interest. The picturesque head-dress of the Valaisian wo-
men consists of a small round straw-hat trimmed with broad ribbon.
From Sion over the Rawyl to Thwn, see R. 55; oyer the Pas de Cheville
to BeXy see R. 68; over the 8aneUch to Osteig, see p. 226 (the ffdtel 8a-
netsch at Zan^euron may be reached from Sion in 0 hrs.), etc. — To the
Mayent de Sion and Evolena^ see R. 82.
Above Sion the Borgne descends from the Val d^Herena (p. 298),
at the head of which we obtain a glimpse of the Denta de Veisivi. At
(19^2 M.) St. Lionard we cross the Lievie, which rises on the Rawyl.
21 M. Oranges ; the village, with a ruined castle and a church on
the hill, lies on the left bank of the Rhone, Y2 M. to the S.
251/2 M. Sierre, Ger. Siders (1765'; pop. 1671 ; *PosU, R.,
L., & A. 21/2 ^r., B. 1 fr. 20 c. ; *Bellevue, pens. 5 fr.), with a
number of interesting, but mostly dilapidated mediaeval houses,
lies picturesquely on a hill, amidst luxuriant vegetation. On the
side next the Rhone is the Schinderthurnif or ruined castle of
Vieux-Sierre J with a fine view of the Val d'Anniviers and the
Rothhorn. On a rocky hill above the Rhone, V2 M- ^ *^® S., is the
Qeronde (2043'), formerly a Carthusian monastery, now a farm, with
two little lakes (baths). Good wine is produced in this district.
From Sierre to St. Luc in the Val d'Anniviers (Bella Tola) and Zinal,
and passes to the Turfman Valley and the Val dCEirens^ see R. 83. —
Interesting ascent of the Mont Bonvin (9843'), by Mi^ge and the Praberon
and Colombire Alps, 7-8 hrs. ; superb view of the VaJaisian Alp8> and of
the Glacier de la Plaine Horte and the WildBtrabel to the TR.
Beyond Sierre a short tunnel and a deep cutting. 27^2 M. Sal-
geschj Fr. Salquenen, a wine-growing village. The line, hewn in
the rock at places, skirts the hill-side, and approaches the Rhone,
the valley of which is strewn with d^ris. On the opposite side is
the Illgraben (p. 285). "We cross the deep gorge of the Dala, pass
through another tunnel, and cross the Rhone to —
3OV2M. Leuk-Suaten, Fr. Lohche-Souste (20W ; Hotel de la
Souste, near the station, D. 4 fr.). The little old town of Leuk,
with its castle and towers (p. 176), lies on the right bank, high
above the Rhone. On a hill to the left is perched the church of
Varen.
To the Baths qT Levity see p. ITS; one-horse carr. 13 (there and bacX
8 fr.), two-horse 25 fr.
■
to Intra, VISP. 79, BouU. 285
The Hioa Boad from Sisbbb to Lxdk Station trftveraea the Forest
of Pfyn^ about 2 M. long and V2 M. broad, a range ofpine-clad bills, KX/ to
200" high. On the E. side of these hills lies Pfyn (1853'), Fr. Finge (ad fines),
the boundary between the two languages. From this point to the source
of the Rhone, German only is spoken. Before reaching stat. Leuk , the
road crosses a canal, 16' deep, which in rainy weather drains the *I11-
graben, or HdUengre^en, a vast semicircular basin, the bleak, yellowish
slopes of which are visible on the right. During heavy rains the water
rushes from the steep and barren sides into this cavity, carrying masses
of rook and stone down to the Rhone.
The line traverses meadows on tlie left bank of the Rhone,
passing the chateau of Baion Wena , and is carried by a stone
dam along the artificial channel of the liver. We cross the Turt-
mannftocft to (34 m.) Tnrtmann (2080'), Fr. Tourtemagne; the vill-
age (Poste or Lion; Soleil) lies ^/a M. to the right, at the mouth of
the TurtmanntheU (p. 306). The Turtmann forms a fine waterfall,
85' high, 8 min. from the Post Inn.
35^2 M. OampeL The village, with deserted smelting-works,
lies on the right bank, 1 M. distant, at the narrow mouth of the
Lotschenthal (p. 176), through which peeps the snowy Peter sgrat.
Near Niedergesteln are the scanty ruins of the Oestelnburg. 39 M.
i^arMi, Fr. Barogne ; on the opposite bank, at the mouth of the
Bietschthal, lies the village, with its old church on a rocky hill.
On a wooded height on the left bank , to the right of the line,
above the hamlet of Turtig, is the little pilgrimage-churchy of
Wandfluhj reached by a winding path flanked with oratories.
We now quit the Rhone, and cross the turbid Visp, which has co-
vered the Rhone Valley here with its debris.
421/2 M. Visp, or Vispach, Fr. Vihge (2155' ; pop. 816 ; Post,
Sonne, B. 2, D. 4 fr. ; *H6t. des Alpea, at the station, R. 2, D.
3 fr. ; Rail. Restaur,, with beds), a picturesque village at the mouth
of the Visp Valley (p. 308), has several old mansion-houses and
handsome churches. The beautiful snow-mountain at the head of
theVisp VaUey is theBcdfrin (12,474'; p. 321), the first peak of the
Saasgratj which separates the valleys of Saas and Zermatt.
From Visp to Zermait, and across the Thiodule Pass to Aosta, see
BB. 83, 84 \ to JSaas^ and over the Moro Pctss to Vogogna, see B. 85. Tra-
vellers starting from Lausanne by the first train may reach Zermatt on
the same day (bridle-path to St. Niklaus, thence oarriage-road).
Above Visp we again approach the Rhone, and skirt it by
means of a stone embankment, traversing several stony tracts, es-
pecially at the influx of the Qamaen, descending from the Nanzer
Thai. The right bank is steep and wooded. To the right of the line
is Olis , with an old Romanesque church, at the base of the GliS'
horn (8130'); to the E. rises the fine pyramid of the Bortelhorn
(10,482'). We then cross the artificial channel of the Saliine to —
471/2 M. Bzieg, Fr. Brigue (2244'; pop. 1200; *H6t. des Cour-
ormes et PosU, R., L., & A. 3V2-4, D. 41/2 fr. ; Angleterre, R., L.,
& A. 3^ D. 4 fr. ; *Bail, Bestaur,^, a small town, where the railway
terminates. The turreted chateau once belonged to the Stockalper
286 RouU 79. BRIEG. From MarUgn/g
family (p. 289). The fine snow-mounUin to the S. is the Monte
Leone; to the N. the Great AleUch Olacier is yisible.
To Bblalp, a beautiful excursion (bridle-path, 4i/s-5hr8.; porter 5i
horse 15 fr.). rrom Brieg we cross the Bhone to (1 U.) NaUr* (p. 295))
and ascend to the left by a poor and stony and almost shadeless path, steep
at places, to (2 hrs.) the village of Flatten (rustic inn) \ then through wood
and over the BUchenen and Eggen Alps to the (2 hrs.) *H6tel Belalp (7153'),
suitable for a stay of some duration (English Church), situated on the
Lilsgen-Alp at the base of the Sparrhom, and high above the Aletsch
Glacier. (Splendid view of the Valaisian Alps. Sunrise particularly fine.)
The little Villa LUsgen^ 5 min. above the hotel, belongs to Prof. Tyndall.
ExcuBsioNS. Pleasant walk on the hill-side , past the hamlet of Bet-
alp (6736'), to that of (lV?-2 hrs.) ITessel (6675'-, milk, etc.), high above the
Bhone Valley, with beautiful view. — To the *lJpp«r Alatseh Olaeier,
very attractive. Bridle -patii from the hotel to the (IVs l^^O W. mo-
raine^ then across this and a second moraine to the almost uncrevassed
glacier, with its numerous 4ce-tables\ 'glacier-mills'*, etc. We may walk
up the glacier to the right to the foot of the Oretxt Alettehhom (p. 298),
or traverse the Beichfirn to the left to the snow-slopes of the Bekhgrai
(see below; 8-10 hrs. in all; guide and provisions necessary).
The ^Sparrhom {Belalplwm^ 969(y), 2V2-3 hrs. from the inn, bridle-path
most of the way (guide 4 fr., unnecessary for the experienced). Beautiful view,
finer on the S. side than from the Eggishorn, but inferior to it on the N.
side. (Panorama at the inn.) To the N., above the Aletsch Glacier, and
to the left of the Fusshomer, the Grosse Aletschhora (ascent, p. QiB) is
most prominent; adjoining it are the Sattelhom, Ebnefluh, Disielhom,
Breithom, and the Tschingelhomer, and to the left, adjacent to the Hoch-
stock, is the Nesthorn. Towards the S. rises the broad mass of the Monte
Leone ; more to the right are the Fletschhom , Monte Bosa , Mischabel,
Matterhom, Weisshom, Brunnegghorn, Dent Blanche, Grand Combin, and
Mont Blanc. To the left of Monte Leone are the Bortelhom, Hullehom,
Helsenhom, Punta d''Arbola, Giischihom, Ofenhorn, the peaks of the St.
Gotthard group, and lastly the Walliser Fiescherhomer.
From the Belalp to the Eggithom Hotel (5Vs hrs.), see p. 294. Guide
8 fr. \ necessary only for the passage of the Aletsch Glacier (4 fr.).
Fbok Bblalp to Bibd oveb thb Beichobat, toilsome, but rery inter-
esting (9-10 hrs.; guide 20 fr.). We ascend the Ohtr-AUttch QladervnA the
Beichfirn to the Beich-Pass (10,23T), between the Bchienhom and the L6i-
sehenthaler Breithom (see below); then descend rapidly over the Distel
Olacier to the beautiful Qleisehentaffel Alp and Bied (p. 176). The BreU-
hom (13,45O0i a splendid point of view, is ascended from the Beichgrat in
3 hrs. without difficulty. Still grander is the panorama from the "NetU
horn (12,535'), 7-8 hrs. from Belalp, by the Upper Aletsch Glacier; trying,
and only for adepts (guide 40 fr.). — The Bchienhom (12,646')-4V2 hrs.
trom the Beichpass, is very difficult. — Or. Aletechhorn, see p. 298.
The Upper Valais, and the GrifMel^ Furka, and Qriea passes,
see BR. 80, 52, 33, 81.
The SiMpLON Road, the first great Alpine ronte after the Bren-
ner, constructed by order of Napoleon I. In 1800-6, quits the Rhone
Valley here. From Brieg to Domo d^Ossola (41 M.) the diligence I
takes 91/2 hrs. (b^/2 to Simplon, where it halts Y2 ^^j *^d 3V2 ^ !
Domo d'Ossola), returning in 10 hrs. (from Domo d'Ossola to Simplon
51/2 J thence to Brieg 4 hrs.). A good walker may easily outstrip
the diligence in ascending from either side, especially if he takes
the short-cuts , but his descent will be slower. The scenery is far
finer than on the Splugen rente, but the engineering of the road is
less striking.
UiMrMi, BERISAL. 79. BouU. 287
Tbe ascent begins at the post-K)fiac6 at Biieg. (Just above tbe tU^
lage a short-cut^ to the left, rejoins the road near the second
refuge. Other short-cuts farther on.) The road is soon joined
0/2 M.) by the old road firom Olis (p. 285), on which lies the lofty
Sdlime Bridge (Pont Napolion, 2477';. Opposite rises the Qlishom
(8130'). The road winds over green pastures to the E., in the di-
rection of the Klenehhom. Fine retrospective view of the Rhone
Valley ; high above the right bank of the Rhone is the H6tel Bel-
alp, commanded by the Sparrhorn, with the Nesthom on the left ;
to the right, farther up, the cone of the Eggishom ; above us, to
the S., is the Kaltwasser Glacier, which the road afterwards passes,
and the Schonhom. Beyond the hamlet of Schluehtj by the (22/4 M.)
First Refuge (3560'), the road turns back and ascends the wooded
slope in many windings, affording splendid views of the Rhone
Valley and the mountains of the Aletsch region. Beyond the
Bleicht Kapelle (4072') it again approaches the deep ravine of the
Saltine. By the (23/4 M.) Secor^d, or Schallberg-Befuge (4334'; au-
berge), two brooks from the Staldenhom, one on each side, unite
far below with the Saltine, the valley of which (Oanterthal) now
tnms to the E. Fine view of the picturesquely grouped valleys, and
of the Wasenhom, Fnxggenbanmhom, and Bortelhom. The road,
now nearly level, traverses the Ganterthal to the (2 M.) Oanter
Bridge, which is much exposed to avalanches in winter, and ascends
in a wide curve (short-cut to the left) to (1 M.) —
9 M. Berisali the Third Refuge (5006'; '*H6t. de la PosU, R.,
L., & A. 3V21 B. IV2) pens. 7-8 fr.), finely situated, and suitable
for some stay.
ExcuKSioNS. The WaienJiorn (Punta di Terrarossa. 10,730'; 6 hrs. ;
guide 8 fr.), interesting, and not difficult. — -B««Z«Aorn (9728'; 4V2 hrs.; with
guide) not difficult (comp. p. 294). — Sortelhom (Punta del Rehbio, 10,485'),
ascended by the Boriel Alp in SVshrs., trying (guide lOfr.).
Fbom BsBiSAL TO IsKLLB BT DivBGLiA, iOhrs., wlth guide, a splendid
route, but fatiguing. We ascend the Bortel-Alp and the Borfel Glacier to
the Passo di Forchetta^ between the Fttrggenhaumhom, or Punta d'Aurrnia,
and the Bortelhom y and descend to the beautifully situated Alp Diveglia
Cp. 294), and through the Val Cherasca to Trasquora and Iselle (p. 289). —
From the Alp Diveglia over the Col di Valdentro (SOOO') and the Passo di
Bu»c<»gno to Al Ponte in the Val Devero (p. 279), 6-7 hrs., with guide, a
fine route, not difficult.
The road crosses the Fronibach and the Weiashachj and reaches
the (2V4M.) Fourth Refuge(6QAb'). To the right the top of the pass
is visible ; above it rise the Rauthom with the Raut Glacier and the
finely shaped Fletschhorn with the Rossboden Glacier; beautiful
retrospective view of the Aletschhorn, Schienhorn, etc. Beyond the
(1^4 M.) Scfuilhet QaUery, or Caploch, hewn in the rock for 33 yds.,
is the (3/4M.) Fifths or Schalbet Refuge (6358'). Between this point
and the top of the pass is the most dangerous part of the road during
the period of avalanches and storms. Over the (8/4 M.) KdUwcuser
Glacier OdUery (6460') is precipitated the stream which Issues from
the glacier, forming a waterfall visible through a side-opening. Two
288 Route 79. SIMPLON. From MarUgnp
other gaUeries. Then the (1 M.) Sixth Refuge (65400, with a
splendid (the last) Tiew of the Bernese Alps and of Brieg in the
Rhone Valley far below.
A little farther on we reach the highest point of the Simplon
(6595^ 6V4 M. from Berisal), ^/^ M. beyond which is the Hotpim
(6570'), at the base of the -Sfc^onfcom (10,505'), a large building
with a lofty flight of steps , founded by Napoleon for the reception
of travellers, and subject to the same rales as that of the Great St.
Bernard (p. 277). It remained unfinished from want of means till
1825, when the St. Bernard Hospice purchased the buildings. The
diligence halts for a few minutes only.
ExcuBBiONs. The SeMnhom (iO^GOb'y dVshrs.; with guide), laborious,
but interesting. — Honte Leone (11,606'; 5-6 hrs.; guide 12 fr.), up the
Kaltwasser Glacier^ difficult and unfit for novices (easier from Oondo by-
Alpien^ see p. 289). — From the hospice to Sialden by the Bistenen Pass
(mule-traok), see p. 306 ; to Saas by the Sirvolten and Simeli Passes^ see below.
A broad open valley resembling a dried-up lake, bounded by
snow-capped peaks, forms the highest part of the Pass. The hardy
Alpine rose alone thrives here. The (8/4 M.) Old Hospiee (57000, *
high square building with a tower, on the right, below the new road,
is now occupied by herdsmen. Beyond the (2 M.) Seventh Refuge
in the Engeloch we cross the (^4 M.) Krumnibach and the (1^2 ^0
Am Senk Bridge (4855 Q ; to the right is the Roesboden Olaeier with
its huge moraine (see below). Then (1/2 M.) —
21 M. Simplon (4856Q, Ital. Sempioney Germ. Simpeln (*Po8Uj
R. , L., & A 3, D. 31/2 fr. ; H6t, Fletschhorrh , at the lower end of the
village), among pastures at the N.E. base of the Fletschhom (p. 289).
Fbom Simplon to Saas several routes', the shortest and finest is
across the *Ros8bodeinoch (8-9 hrs. ; fatiguing, but without serious dif-
ficulty for adepts ; guide 20 fr., Jos. Dorsaz of Simplon). On the left side
of the Rossboden Glacier^ which has lately receded , we ascend steep mo-
raine and rock, cross the upper part of the glacier, and mount steep rocks
to the pass (about 11,485'), lying to the X. of the Rossbodenhom, with
a i^uperb view. Descent across the Mattwald Olaeier to the Hofersalp
(see below) and Saas im Orund (p. 320). — Another grand, but much
more difficult pass, not without danger, is the Laquinjoch (11,514'), between
the Laquinhom and the Weissmies (10 hrs.; guide 30 fr.).
To Saas oveb the Sibvoltbv and Simeli Passes (or the Gamsek-
JOCH), 10-11 hrs., fairly interesting (guide 20 fr.). By the Seventh Refuge
(see above) we descend to the left, cross the Krummbach to the Nieder-
alpi and ascend by a narrow path towards a waterfall visible from below.
On the left side of it we mount a *couloir*, steep at first (leaving the Sir-
voHen Lake to the left), to the (4 hrs.) Binrolten Pass (about SSSOy, to
the K. of the Sirvoltenhom (view limited). Descent over rock and debris
(keeping well to the left) to the head of the Nanzer Thaly into which thp
Oamser Glacier descends. We ascend the glacier gradually to the S.W.
towards an ardte coming down from the Mattwaldhorn on the E., at the
foot of which the route divides : to the right to the Simeli Pass (about
10,0400; to the left to the Oamser Joch (each 2-2y2 hrs. from the Sirvolten
Pass). These passes, between which rises the pointed Magenhom (10,338%
command beautiful views of the majestic Mischabel group ; immediately
to the left is the Fletschhom with the Mattwald Glacier; to the E. are
the Monte Leone and the St. Gotthard group; and to the N. are the
Bernese Alps from the Fnrka to the Diablerets. A still grander point is
the "MamBaldhom (10,7290, easily ascended from the Simeli Pass in 1 hour.
^
I]
to Intra. GONDO. 79, Route, 289
Toilsome descent from the Gamser Joch over the moraine of the Jiatiuaid
Glacier. Rounding the lower part of the valley to the left, we next come
to the Saftel (9236'), on the E. side of the Rothhorn (91830, and to the
Bofenalp (7258'). The path now improres and leads by Bodmen to (SVz hrs.)
Saas im Orund (p. 320). Descent by the Alp Sevenen to Balen (p. 321)
much longer and not advisable.
The TleUohh<im(Rostboden?Mm; 12,8&3'), 8-9 hrs. from Slmplon (guide
26 fr.), fatiguing, but safe for proficients. A night is spent in the Bohsaat-
hiUU (about 800(/), 3 hrs. from Simplon, above the Laquinthal (see below).
Thence up the S.E. arete to the top in 5-6 hrs.
Walkers may here take a rough short-cut, rejoining the road
near the Algaby Gallery. Beyond the (1/4 M.) Loweribachj the road
forms a wide bend and enters the Laquinthal^ and »t the (i^/^ M.)
hamlet of Osteig or Algaby (40429 it crosses the Krummbach, into
which the Laquinbach falls. Below this the brook is named the Do-
veria. Beyond the (1/4 M.) Oallery of Algaby begins the *Eavine
of GondOy watered by the brawling Doveria, one of the wildest
and grandest gorges in the Alps, which becomes narrower and
deeper at every step, till its smooth walls of mica-sl&te quite OTei'
hang the road. The road passes the (IV4 M.) Eighth RefugCy and
crosses the Doveria by (1/2M.) the Ponte Alto (3747'), and by another
bridge near the Ninth Refuge (3514'). A huge mass of rock, which
seems to terminate the road here, is pierced by the (HUery of
Ck>ndo, a tunnel 245 yds. long, with the inscription, ^AereJtalo ISOfi
Nap. Imp.'' In 1830 the Swiss erected gates at the entrance.
At the farther end of the gallery the Fresavnone^ or Alpiehbach,
forms a waterfall, which is crossed by a slender bridge. On both
sides the rocks tower to a dizzy height (about 2000'). The sombre
entrance to the tunnel contrasts strikingly with the white spray of
the cascade, while the beautiful Bodmer Glacier is visible beyond
the ravine. This magnificent Alpine scene surpasses the finest parts
of the Yia Mala (p. 357). Traces of the old road are still visible op-
posite the waterfall. Farther on are several smaller falls. The poor
hamlet of (2V2 M.) Gondo (2818'), Ger. Ounz or Ruden, is the last
Swiss village (customhouse). The tall square tower here (now an
inn, uninviting) was erected by the Stockalper family as a refuge
for travellers, long before the new road was made
To the 8. opens the narrow Val Varia^ or Ztpitehbtrgbn-Thal^ from
which we may without difficulty cross the Zwiaehbexycn P<m* (10,735')i
between the Weisnnies (p. 320) and the Portjengrat (Pizzo d'Andolla, 12,006'),
to Saas im Grund (p. 320 5 12 hrs. 5 guide 20 fr.). — The ascent of Aont«
Xeone (11,6960 from Gondo via Alpien is less trying than from the Sim-
plon (p. 288). A night is spent in the highest chalets of the Fraxinado
Mp^ 4 hrs. from Gondo ^ thence by the Alpien Glacier to the top, 4-5 hrs.
A column of granite on the left, ^2 ^* ^i^om Gondo, marks the
boundary of Italy. The first Italian village is (V4 M.) 8, Marco, Be-
low this the valley is called Vol di Vedro. We next reach (1^/4 M.) —
30 M. ImUo (2175'i ^Fosta, English landlady), where luggage
is examined. Below (IY2 ^0 Trasquora^ which lies on the hiU to
the left} the road takes a wide bend to the left and crosses the C/ie-
rasca. (To the Rhone Valley by Divegliay see pp. 287, 294.) Near
BAE0EXSB, Switzerland. 12th Edition. 19
290 RouU 79. DOMO O'OSSOLA.
(1 M.) VarzOj a large Tillage on the left, atove the road , the vege-
tation becomes moie luxuriant (chestnuts , figs, mulberries, maize,
vineyards). Passing through a picturesque ravine , we next reach
(31/2 M.) the OalUry of Creo}fla (1286') and (2^2 M.) the village of
Crevola (1099'; Oateria della SUUd), where for the last time we
cross the Doveria by a bridge 100' high , near its confluence with
the Toaa, which here emerges from the VcdU d'Aniigorio (p. 297).
The fertile valley, now called Vallt d^Ossola^ GeT.Eschenthalf though
frequently ravaged by inundations, Is strikingly picturesque and
thoroughly Italian in character. "We next reach (21/2 M.) —
41 M. Domo d'Osgola (1000'; *Bdt, de la Ville et Poste, R.,
L., & A. from 81/2, D- 5 fr.; H6t d^Espagne; Peace, plain; Alb.
NazioncUcj mediocre) , a small town with 3300 inhab. , charmingly
situated on the Tosa, which becomes navigable here. The ^Calvary
Hill J '/2 ^'- t<> t^6 S., commands a superb view.
To Loeamo through the Val Vigeezo^ see p. 413. — On the W. opens
the Valle cU Bognaaeo, with mineral springs, from which several passes
lead to the ZtowclAergen and Antrpna ValUp$ (see below).
Below Domo d'Ossola the scenery is less interesting. At (3 M.)
Villa the wild and narrow Val Antrona opens on the right.
OvsB THE Aktbona Pass TO Saas, 12-13 hrs. (guide unnecessary). The
bridle-path follows the left, and afterwards the right bank of the Ovesea,
by Vigamlla^ to (2i/z hrs.) Antrona Piana (3064'^ bed at the prefeei'a).
Passing the chaxmiog little Antrona Lake (formed by a landslip from the
Pizzo Pozzolo in 1632), it ascends tbe Vastondna^ OranaHoli, Lombraoro^
and dngino Alps to the (6 hrs.) Saas or Antrona Pass (93300) between
the JSezihom {Pizzo del Cfingino^ 10,600^) on the left and the LcUelhom
(10,526'; easily ascended from the pass in IVs hr.; see p. 320). Descent on
the right side of the Furggen Glacier to the Furggenthal^ AlmagelL and
(4 hrs.) Saas (p. 320). — To Mattmakk from the Val Antrona a direct,
but rough route crosses the Antifime or Ofsnthal Paaa (9318'). Before the
ascent to the Lombraoro Alp begins (see above), we cross the Ovesca to
the left and ascend rapidly to the pass, between the Jazzihom and tbe
Pizzo d^Antigine (10,155'; a fine point, »/* hr. from the pass)*, we then
descend through the wild Ofenfhal to MaiHnarh (8-9 hrs. from Antnma
Plana; p. 319).
By (1^4 M.) Pallanzeno the road skirts the Tosa for a short
distance, and then traverses a broad grassy expanse. On the
right opens the VaUe d^Amaaca, with the superb flve-peaked
crown of Monte Rosa at its head. The road crosses the Tosa. (The
road to Pie di Mniera diverges to the right, see p. 317.) Then
(13/4 M.) Masone and (1 1/2 M.) —
48^2 M. Yogogaa (740'; ^Corofui)^ a small town at the foot of
steep rocks , with a ruined castie. The rapid Tosa is navigable
here, though not without difficulty. Next villages (I3/4 M.) iV«-
mosdlo and (21/2 M.) Cu%%ago. We cross the Tosa by a bridge of
five arches to (174 M.) Migiandone, and next reach (2i/2 M.) —
56*/2 M. Omavasso (Italia; Croet Bianea). The marble quarries
on the hill to the left belong to the cathedral-chapter of Milan. At
(2^2 M.) OraveUonaj a place with large cotton-mflls, the Strona
falls into the Tosa. The Lake ofOrta lies 41/2 M. to the 8. (p. 422).
The road to Stresa and Arona diverges here to the right.
RHONE GLACIER. SO. RouU. 291
T)ie BoAD TO Stbxba (71/2 M. $ diligenoe aoid ehiuige of earriagea, tee
p. 282) paflses large granite quarries, in which beautiful crystals of fel-
spar are found, and reaches the Logo Maggiore at (2 H.) Feriolo (p. 419) i
in the distance are seen Pallanza and the Isola Madre (p. 419) and, far-
ther off, the fine outline of the Basjio di Ferro. Beyond (S M.) Ba9«no
5 p. 419) the road continues to skirt the lake, in view of the Borrcmean
slands^ and next reaches (2V2 H.) Stresa (p. 420).
Fbou Qbavblloka to Obta, IOV2 M., railway (opened in 188T) in
40 min. The line ascend* tiie fertile valley of the Strona^ running on the
left bank of the stream parallel with the high-road. Beyond (2V2 M.)
Crusinallo it crosses the river and immediately afterwards , at the little
town of Omegna^ the NiguHa Canals, which drains the Lake of Orta. At the
station of (4V3 K.) Omegna^ with a lovely view, the line reaches the lake,
which it then skirts* keeping above the high-road and commanding beauti-
ful views on the rignt. Beyond 0V4 M.) Petiencuco^ the train crosses the
valley of the Pe»cone^ by means of an eight-arched viaduct, 105' high;
and It then traveraes deep cuttings to the imposing Sasnna Viachtetf
174' above the sea level, which has a central iron span of 165', and which,
owing to the unfavourable nature of the ground, was the most difficult
part of the line to construct. — lOVt H. Orta-Miaiino ^. 422).
The road to Pallanza crosses the Tosa and leads past the base
of the Montorfano, near the picturesque Logo di Mergozzo, to
Fondo Toce, at the influx of the Tosa into the Lago Maggiore
(p. 419). To the 8. in the distance are the Borromean Islands
(p. 419); on the right rises the Monte Motterone mth its hotel
(p. 421). We now follow the bank of the lake, passing Cavendone
on the hill to the left, with its pilgrimage-church, to Suna^ with its
pleasant villas, (6 M.) Pallanza j and (2^2 M.) Intra (p. 418;
68Y2 M. from Brieg), whence a steamer, corresponding with the
diligence, crosses to Laveno on the St. Gotthard Railway (p. 416).
80. From the Khone Glacier to Brieg. The Eggishora.
31 H. DiLiasNGS to Brieg twice daily (7.30 a.m. and 2.10 p.m.) in
48/4 hrs. (12»/f, coup^ 16 fr.; to Fiesch in 2«/4 hrs. •, 7 fr. 6, coup^ 8 fr. 65 c).
In the reverse direction the journey takes VUhn. — One-horse carr. from
the Rhone Glacier to Fiesch 20, two>horse 30 fr. ; to Brieg 80 or 50 fr. 3
from Brieg to Fiesch 12 or 25, to Ulriehen 20 or 40, the Rhone Glacier 30
or 60, Andermatt 60 or 100, Fliielen 90 or 150 fr. (Return-carriages often
to be had for less.)
From the Rhone Glacier over the Fwka to Andermatt y see R. 33;
over the Orimsel to the Baslithal and to Meiringen, see R. 52.
The *Bhoiie Olaoier, Imbedded between the Gerstenhomer
(10,450') and Qelmerhomer (10,500') on the W., and the OaUn-
«<ocfc (11,803'), iJ/ioneitocfc (11,823'), and Da»nma«tocfc (11,920'),
on the E., ascends in terraces for about 6 M., Tesembling a gigan-
tic frozen waterfaU. At its base, 'Im Oletseh' (5750'), is the H6t
du Olaeier du Bh$ne (R., L., & A. 31/2-^, !>• oVr^ fr.). A beau-
tiful blue Ice Orotto, hewn in the glacier, 25 mln. from the hotel,
is worth seeing (1/2 fr-)- ^ shorter path leads hence acToss the end
of the glacier to the Furka road.
From the Rhone Glacier, which has decreased much of late years
(Its movement being marked by rows of stones of different colours),
issues the Bhoney the Bhodanus of the ancients, descending ^from
19*
292 BouUSO. ULRICHEN. Upper
the gates of eternal night, at the foot of the pillar of the 8nn\ The
natives, however, give the name of Rotteny or Rhodan, to three par-
tially warm springs rising at the back of the hotel, which they
regard as the source of the river.
A short distance from the hotel the road crosses the infant
Rhone, which dashes through its rocky ravine far below , and de-
scends in long windings to (33/4 M.) Oberwald (4456'; Hdtel Furca,
plain), at the bottom of the valley of the Upper Valais, a broad
expanse of pasture, studded with houses and hamlets, enclosed by
monotonous chains of mountains, and watered by the Rhone, which
is seldom visible. In front rises the majestic Weisshom, and
behind us the Galenstock. The valley consists of three regions, the
highest extending a little beyond Fiesch, the second to the bridge of
Grengiols, and the third lying below this bridge. The inhabitants
(Rom. Oath.) speak German; French begins near Sion (p. 283).
From the wild G-erenthal, a ravine opening to the E. of Oberwald,
a fatiguing pass crossee the Kuhboden Glacier and the Oerenpast (90520,
S. of the KUhbodenhoift (10,0820, to the Alpe Nuova and AW Acqua in the V»l
Bedretto (see below; Shrs., guide 18 fr.). — The Fisso Sotoado (10,4900,
the higheat peak of the St. Gotthard, is ascended from the KiOibeden (head
of the Oerenthal, Beys') over the Oei'engktschev in 5 hrs. (difflcolt; for
experts only, with good guides).
At (21/4 M.) Obergestelen (4452^) the direct route to the Grimsel
diverges to the right (p. 170). Opposite (1^/4 M.) TJlriohen, or Ur-
lichen (4380'; *H6t. zum Grieagletscher^ plain) is the mouth of the
Eginen-Thal. (Over the Ories Pass to the Tosa Falls, see p. 295.)
To AiBOLO ovKK THB NuFENEN Pass (8^/4 hrs.) , a rough, uninteresting
bridle-path, guide necessary (12, horse 25 fr.). Beginning of route, see
p. 295. At (2V4 hrs.) Alistaffel (p. 296) the path leads to the left, ascends in
zigzags, and crosses the (IV4 hr.) TivShxh Pass {Passo di IfavenOy 8006'),
between the Pizzo Oallina (10,0660 on the left and the Nufenenstock (94OO0
on the right, to the Yal Bedretto. Immediately to the K. of the pass
rises the TicinOy which the path follows, first on the right, and below the
Alp Cruina on the left bank, to the (IV4 hr.) Hospice all' Acqn* (5266'; poor
inn; route over the S. Oiacomo Pass to the Tosa FallSy see p. 296). The
lofty Val Bedretto is bleak and barren. Winter laats nearly eight months,
and even in summer it sometimes freezes at night. The wooded slopes
are overtopped by bare pinnacles of rock. Avalanches are common in spring
and winter, and we frequently cross their track. The hamlet of (1 hr.)
Bedretto (4610'; Inn, rustie) was partly destroyed by an avalanche in 1863,
when 28 of the inhabitants perished. Then (20 min.) Villa (v^ry poor inn ^
route over the Cavanna Pass to Realp, see p. HI). Near (20 min.) Ossasco
(4367'; Albergo delle Alpi, rustic, but dear) the road crosses the Ticino.
Beyond (25 min.) Fontana is the picturesque Val Bitvino to theright, with
waterfalls. Then (1 hr.) Airolo (p. 101).
The following viUages are Oeschenen (43960 and (2V4 M.) —
10 M. Munster (4528' ; Ooldrhes Kreua; one*horse carr. to Brieg
18 fr. and fee). Fine view from the chapel-hill.
The ^LdiFelhoni (10,138'; 5 hrs., fatiguing; guide 6 fr.) is ascended from
Miinster, partly over snow and granite- rocks. View like that from the
Eggishom, with the addition of the Finsteraarhorn in the foreground.
The next villages, Reckingen (with the finest church in the val-
ley, at the mouth of the BlinnerithaC), Oluringenj Ritzingen, Biely
Selkingen^ and BUtzingen^ are almost contiguous. At (5M.) Nieder<»
Valais. EGGISHORN. 80. Route. 293
wald (4052' ; Zum Outen Freund), an excellent spring under a roof
by the road-side. The Rhone now forces its passage to a lower
region of the valley. The road leads on the right bank to (41/2 M.) —
191/2 M. Fiesch (3458'; *Hdt. du Glacier et Posie, R., L., &
A. 3 , D. 4 , pens. 6 fr. ; *H6t. des Alpea , lower down , well sit-
uated), prettily situated at the influx of the brawling Fieschbaeh
into the Rhone.
ExcuBsioNS. The Fiesch Olaoier is interesting on account of its
beantiful ice-formations and colouring. Steep path to the (2V2 hrs.) Stock-
alp, whence the glacier is safely accessible. From the Stockalp to the
Mdrjelenalp (7756') IV4 hr. ^ thence past the Mdrjelensee and by the ThdUi-
grot (see below) to the Eggishom Motel IV2 hr.
•Ascent of the Eooishobn very interesting (5 hrs. ; guide
unnecessary ; to the inn 3 hrs. ; porter 6, horse 10 fr.). Above the
H6t. des Alpes the bridle-path ascends to the right, somewhat
steeply, chiefly through wood, past (IY2 hr.) an auberge and seve-
ral pyramids of earth lying a little to the left, to (40 min.) the
Fieacher Alp (6210') ; then over pastures (where we may take the
direct path following the telegraph-posts, y2 hr. shorter, but steep)
to the (50 min.) ^Hdt.'Pens. Jungfrau (7195'; R. & A. 3, lunch
21/2-3, D. 4-5, pens. 8 fr.), a favourite resort of English tourists,
and suitable for some stay (rooms should be secured in advance).
The little English Church, 200 yds. from the inn, was opened
in 1884. From the inn to the top 2 hrs. more (guide 4 fr,, but
not needed; horse 7 fr.). The bridle-path ascends in zigzags,
then turns to the right, and after 3/^ hr. to the left. (The path to
the right leads to the ThaUigrat above the Marjelensee and to the
Mdrjelenalp; see above.) After 3/^ hr. more the bridle-path ends,
and we ascend by a good footpatlx and lastly mount steps of rock
to the (V2 lir-) summit of the *Eggishom (9626'), the highest peak
of the ridge which separates the Great Aletsch Glacier from the
Rhone Valley, with a superb view of the Bernese and the Valai-
sian Alps.
<'*ViKw (compare the annexed Panorama by Imfeld). Immediately below
us lies the dark-green Mdrjelen-8ee (7710*), in which blocks of ice often float;
then the huge Aletsch Glacier (13 M. long), the largest among the Alps, to
the left the Hittel-Aletsch Olacier, and to the right the Fiesch Glacier.
Of the countless peaks the most prominent are : to the right, the Galenstock,
Oberaarhom, Finsteraarhorn, and Gross-Wannehorn ^ in front, the Eiger,
Monch, and Jungfrau; to the left, the Dreieckhom, Great Aletschhorn,
Sattelhom, Nesthorn; to the S. the Weisshom, Matterhom, Hischabel-
horner, Monte Rosa, Fletschhomer, Weissmies, Mte. Leone, Bortelhom,
and Helsenhom. We also overlook a great part of the Simplon Route
and of the 19icolai<Thal (p. 906).
Ascent of the Jungfrau (guides at the hotel; guides and porterfl
from the Rhone valley are not received at the hotel), see p. 16l; Pin-
steraarhom^ p. 169. To the Concordia Hut (9417*) an interesting glacier-
walk (5 hrs. ; guide 10-12 fr.) — The Qtrouue Aletschhom (13,773'; guide
40 fr.), the second-highest of the Bernese peaks, is ascended either from
the Concordia Hut or from Belalp (p. 286); difficult, but without danger
for experts. View exceedingly grand.
From the Eggishorn to Orindelwald over the Mdnchjoch^ Jung/raujoch,
etc., see p. 158} to the Orimsel over the Oberaarjoeht Studerjoch, etc.,
294 BouUSO, B1NN£NTHAL.
see p. 169. — From Lauterbrunnen to the Eggithom by the Lamnenthort
Rolhthal-Sattely and Ebn^uh-Joch^ see p. 162.
Fbom tbe BGGI8HOS17 ovEB THE LStschenluckb TO BiBD 12-13 hrs., a
grand glacier-route (guide 90 fr.). We ascend the Oreai AM»ch Glacier and
the Great AletichjUrn to the Ldtschenlttttke (10^13'). a> depression of the
Anengrcft^ to thp K. of the Sattelhorn (12.294^, and descend the crevassed
JAftschen Glacier to the Olet»eti4r staff el Aip a&d Hied in the Lotschenthal
(p. 176).
Fboh the Egqishobn to the Riedebalp and Belalp (guide 8, horse
20 fr. \ but riding not possible on the glacier), 5 hrs., a beautiful walk.
The bridle-path from the hotel, past the little English church, running
nearly at the same level, high abore the Rhone, leads over the Betimer-
Alp^ with its little lake (6532', abounding in fish), and the GoppisbergtMht
to the (2V4 hrs.) Biederalp (6315'; *H(it.-Pens. Riederatpr B. & L. 2V2, I>. 5,
pens. 8 fr.). The beautiful situation and mild dimate of this alp adapt
it fbr a stay of some time. Here we ascend to the right to the (25 min.)
Rieder Furka (6S20'; Miiller's Inn. moderate, pens. 6 fr. ; Beataur. de 8e-
pibus), whence we may scale the Rtederhom (7313' ; V2 hr.), a very fine point
of view. Descent , with splendid views of the Uppw Aletseh or J&gi (72a<<er,
lying between the Sparrhorn and the Fusshoirner and overshadowed by the
Schienhonty to the (V2 hr.) Grosse Aletsehgletscher 0ii86') , which is safely
crossed here in 1/2 hr. (with guide) to Aletichhord ; then a steep ascent, past
the chalets of Unter-AleUeh^ to (IV4 hr.) the Hdtel Belalp (p. 286). ~ Fboxthb
RiEDBBALP TO MObbl {U/z hr.), a bridle-path, at first through pastures, then
through wood, making a long sweep to the right (steep paths descending
to the left to be avoided), with splendid views of the Bhone Valley, the
Simplon Mts., etc. We first reach Ried OSSCl, a finely situated village;
then, by a roughly paved path, MSrel (p. 295) ; to the Bieder Alp, 2'/i hrs.).
Fboh Fiesch oveb the Albbun Pass to Baceno ob to thb Tosa Falls,
12-13 hrs. (guide from Imfeld desirable ; to Baceno 12 fr.). A good bridle-path
leads by Aemen and the Binnegg,, with fine view of the Binnenthal andValais,
to (IV4 hr.) Auuerbmn and {V^fz hr.) Sehmidhdiuer or Binn (4718' ; «Hot.
Ofenhorn, finely situated), a village, with an interesting church, in the
Binnen-Thal, a valley interesting to mineralogists. (Ouides, Jos. Welschen
and J. J. Gorsat, of Binn ; Ad. and Elias Walpen of Infeld). The *Bemi-
horn (9728'; 5 hrs.; guide 8 fr.) is ascended from Binn without difficulty;
admirable view (comp. p, 287). Ascent of the "Ofenhorn {Punta d^ArHla^
10,637'), by the Albrun Pass (6 hrs.; guide 10 fr.), for adepts only ; the last
part not easy ; superb view. Experts (with guides and rope) may pro-
ceed to the E. over the EoheandgltUcher^ or past the' ObereeB and over
the Nuefelgiu Pass^ to the Tosa Falls (p. 296). — We now follow the
left bank of the Binna, by Giessen, to (»/^ hr.) /m/eW 0144'), where the
path, now indifferent, crosses to the right bank (guide advisable). We
enter (V4 hr.) a pine-wood, pass a number of chalets, and reach (ls/4 hr.)
the last huts Au/ dem Piatt (6924' ; chalybeate spring). We now asoend
steeply to the (1 hr.) Albrun Fan {ColU d'Arbola, 7907'), between tho
O/enhom (see above) on the left and the Albrunhom (9450') on the right.
We descend to the (1 hr.) Beuii-Alp^ past the (1 hr.) Logo di Codeiago.
and through the Val Deveroy by Orempiolo to (1 hr.) Al Ponte (6273' ; small
Inn) and (2V2 hrs.l Baceno (p. 297). From Al Ponte over the Butcagnc
Pass to the Alp JHvegUa^ see p. 287. — To the Tosa Falls. Below the
Beuli-Alp (see above) we ascend the valley to the left to the Alp Fornc;
cross the Golle di Vanm (fine retrospect of the Val Devero and tbe laJce
of Codeiago) by a bad path to the Lago di Lebendun ; then cross the Jhu-
/elgiu Pass and descend the Nuefelgiu VcUlep (rounding the slope to the
right by a solitary chalet) to Auf der Fruth (p. 296 ; 9-l0 hrs. from Binn).
Fbom Fiesch to Baceko oveb the Qbisspfad Pass, 12 hrs., a fine
route (guide 12 fr.). At Imfeld (see above) we diverge to the right to the
Messernalp (6175*) and ascend past the GeisspfadsM (7973') to the (4 hrs.)
Oeisspfad Pass (Bocca Bossa^ 6120*); then descend, steeply at first, to Al
Ponte (see above).
Fbom Fiesch to Bagbho ovbb ths Kbiboalp Pass, 12-14 hrs., toil-
some, and of little interest (guide 12 fr.). From Binn we ascend to the 8»
^f^"- ,....
EGINEN-THAL. 8.L RouU. 295
through the Ldnffthal to (1 hr.) Beiligkrevx (4862') and then to the left
through the Kriegalp-Thal to the (S'/z hrs.) Kriegalp Pass {Paao delta Cor-
nera, 8465"), between the (1.) Offiehihom {Pizzo di Comera, 10,120') and the
(r.) HtUenhom (10,743'; ascent from here very difficult, see below). Descent
to the Butcagno Alp in the valley of that name and over the bevero Alp
to (2 hrs.) Al Ponte (p. 294>.
Fboh Fibsch to Isklle ovsb the Bittkb Pass, 12-14 hrs., trying, but
very interesting (guide 12 fr). From Binn (p. 294) we ascend the LUng-
Thai to the 8. to the (5 hrs.) BiUer Pasa (Potto del Boecareeeio^ 8833'),
between the (r.) HUllenhorn (9680') and the (1.) Helaenhom (10,743'; for adepts,
21/2 hrs. from the pass ; magnificent panorama). Descent to the (IV2 hr.)
beautifully situated Alp JHveglia (5800*; Giov. Boja's inn) in the Vol
Cheratea, and by Tratquora to (3 hrs.) Itelle (p. 289).
Beyond Fiesch the road descends the fertile valley, passing
Aemen on the hill opposite (see above), to (IV2 M.) Lax (3425';
*Kreuz\ with a new church, whence the Eggishorn Inn may he
reached in 4 hrs. It then winds down, commanding a fine view the
whole way, with the Weiaahom in the background , to the bridge
of Orengiol8(^Orangenbruckej 2907'), by which we pross the deep bed
of the Rhone. (Good path hence by Qrengiola in 5 hrs. to JBinn,
p. 294.) We descend a rocky ravine, and again cross the river by
the Kdstenbaum Bridge , to (5 M.) Morel (2523'; H6t, Eggiahom,
moderate; *H6t. dea Alpea'), — To the Riederalp^ 3 hrs., see p. 294.
The valley widens a little. The river here dashes wildly over
sharp slate rocks. On a bold rock below Morel, which the road has
difficulty in passing, rises the very picturesque Hochfluhkirche,
We next cross the Maaaa^ which drains the Great Aletsch Glacier,
reach (4 M.) ITaterB, a large village amidst fruit-trees, commanded
by the ruined castles of Weingarten and Superaax (Auf der Fluh),
and cross the Rhone (2216'), to (1 M.) —
31 M. Brieg^ see p. 285.
81. From TJlrichen to Somo d'Ossola.
0riea Fasi. Falls of the Tosa. Tal Formazsa.
Comp. Map^ p. 288.
15-16 hrs. Two days, spending the night at the Tosa Falls. Bridle-path
from TJlrichen to the Tosa Falls (b'/ahrs.); thence to Foppiano rough (3 hrs.;
porter 6-8 fr.). Gnide (to Frutwald 12, porter 10, horse 20 fr.) unnecessary
m fine weather \ otherwise advisable as far as the other side of the glacier
(6 fr.). — Road from Foppiano to Domo d'Ossola 21 M. ; diligence from
Crodo to Domo d''Ossola daily — One-horse carriage from Foppiano to
Domo 20, from Premia 15 fr. (not always to be had). Horse from the
Falls to Domo d'Ossola SOfr. (for which a carriage and harness may gen-
erally be had at Foppiano). — Domo had better be reached overnight,
as the diligences in both directions start at an early hour.
At TJlrichen (p. 292) a bridge crosses the Rhone to (10 min.)
Zum Lochy a group of deserted huts at the entrance to the Sginen-
Thal. The path crosses the Eginehbach above a fine waterfall, and
leads through larch-wood and a rock-strewn valley to (IV4 ^0
the Alp Hohaand (5720'). It then ascends a steeper part of the val-
ley, overgrown with alders and Alpine roses, where the brook
forms several falls on the left. In front of us rises the Nufenen"
296 Route 8L GRIES PASS. From Ulrichen
stock (9387'). In V2 ^^' ^e cross the brook by the Ladtsteg (63400,
beyond 'which are the dirty chalets of Im Ladt. To the right, above
us, is the Ories Olacier (see below). Following the right bank of
the brook, we then trayerse the highest reach of the valley and
ascend to (20 min.) AJUtaffd (6585'), the last chalet, where the
path to the Nufenen Pass diverges to the left (p. 292). A steep
ascent of 1 hr. more brings ns to the level Qries Olacier j which
we cross in 20 min. , towards the S.W., passing a small glacier-
lake on the left and a smaller one on the right, to the Griei Pass
(8023'), 31/2 hrs. from Ulrichen, the boundary between Switzer-
land and Italy, surrounded by barren heights, and in clear weather
commanding a flue view of the Bernese Alps. (A path, little fre-
quented, leads hence to the N.E. through the Val Como to AlV
Acqtta in the Val Bedretto, p. 292.)
The S. side of the pass, as is usually the case among the Alps,
is steeper than the N. side. The narrow path at first keeps to
the left. The Orieshach rises here, and unites at Eehrbachl (see
below) with the Toaa (TocCj or Toccia), descending from the Valle
Toggia. The upper part of the Formazza valley consists of three
distinct reaches , each with its chalets : Bettelmatt (6348' ; two
chalets, generally empty) in the highest (the slope below which is
called Wallisbdchlen) J Morast in the second, and Kehrhaehi (or
A RiaW) and Auf der Fruth (Sulla Frua), in the third , with a
small chapel and the unpretending *H6t. de la Cascade (5528';
R., L., & A. 3, B. 1 V2 fr-)- This inn (2 hrs. from the Gries Pass)
stands on the brink of a precipice over which the Tosa, 85' broad,
falls in three cascades, widening as it descends. The **Tosa FallSy
or Cascata di Frut, 540' in height, are perhaps the grandest among
the Alps, especially when the river is high. (We descend by the
bridle-path to the left for ^4 hr., to a mass of Took by the wayside,
which affords the best gurvey. A still finer point is beyond the
bridge.) Immediately above the falls a bridge crosses the Tosa.
The Baaodino (10,748' ; spendid view) may be ascended by good clim-
bers without serious difficulty from the inn in 4 hrs. (the landlord acts as
guide). Descent, if preferred, to the Val Bavona, p. 414.
Fsojc THB Tosa Falls to Aibolo, 8 hrs. ^ide desirable to Air
Acqua, and necessary in the reverse direction). The bridle-path diverges
by the chapel above the fidls to the right from the path to the Qries
Pass, and after 20 min. crosses the brook descending from the Basodino.
It then ascends to the right by the wall (leaving Kehrbachi below to the left),
and mounts in steep aigzags to the (Vi hr.) upper reach of the sequestered
Valle Toggia; i/s hr., a bridge ; 20 min., chalets Im Moot. (To the nght rises
the Boochelta di Vatmaggia., see below.) The smaU Fitch-Bee^ well stocked
with trout, lies on the right. By the Alp Kdnigin^ V2 ^'- farther,
we reoross the brook. In the highest part of the Talley we pass another
small lake on the left, and reach (i/s hr.) the 8. Oiaemooo Paw (7572'),
the boundary between Switzerland (Canton Ticino) and Italy. Below
the pass on the 17. side, stands the (20 min.) chapel of S. Oiacomo (TdSO'),
where the inhabitants of the neighbouring valleys assemble annually for
worship on 25th July. In descending, we eigoy a beautiful view of the
southern St. Ootthard Mts., the Euhbodenhom.^ Pizzo B>otondo, Pesciora.
Lucendro, etc., and also, for a short time , of the Finsteraarhom and
toDomod'Ossola. BACENO. 81. Route. ^97
Fieseherliomer. Farther on (keeping at first to the left) we pass some
chalets, and descend through a growth of Alpine roses and larch-wood
into the valley, where we cross two brooks, and then the Ticino, and reach
the (IV2 hr.) Hospice alV Aequo (p. 292). Thence to Airolo^ see p. 292.
FsoM THE ToBx Falls TO BioNABco, 9 hrs.. with guide, a fine route.
By the FitcA-See (p. 296) we diverge to the right from the S. Giacomo
path and ascend over debris and rock to the Bocehetta di Yal Maggia
(8710'), between the (r.) Kastelhorn and the 00 Marchhom; then descend
through the Vol Fiorina (with the snowy Bcuodino on the right, see above)
to the Alp Robiei^ and through the picturesque Val Bavona (road beyond
8, Carlo} to Bignasco (p. US).
Below the Tosa Falls begins the YalFormaszay or Pommat Valley y
containing the villages of (72^1.)^'^'^"'"^^ (^^ Camachajj (lOmln.)
Qurf (Jn Orovdlojj (1/4 br.) Zum Steg (Al Pont ; wine and a few
beds at Schmidt's), with tbe town-hall and archives of the valley,
(10 min.) Pommat, and (1/2 lir.) Andermatten (4075'), or AUa
ChiesQy with the church of the valley. Below (1/4 hr.) Staff elwald
(8. Michele) the path enters a grand *Deflle, in which it crosses the
Tosa twice. At (8/4 br.) Vnterwald (Foppiano), the last village
where German Is spoken, the carriage-road begins (vehicles not
always to be had; see p. 295).
From the Yal Formazza over the Albrun Pass to Fiesch in the Valais,
see p. 294. — To thb Val ULaqgia (p. 418), toilsome, and deficient in at-
traction (from Andermatten to Gevio 8 hrs. , not without guide) : from
Staffelwaia a steep ascent of 3 hrs. to the Oriner Fnrfca (7631', fine view) ;
descent of IV2 hr. to Bosco and (3V2 hrs.) Cevio (p. 418).
The Cabbiaob Road follows the right bank to (1 M.) Rivaseo
(Inn) and (1 M.) Al Posbo. The valley of the Tosa below this point
is called the *YaUe d'AntigoriOi one of the most beautiful on the
S. side of the Alps, and enlivened with watexfalls. The mica-slate
locks between (IV2 M.) 5. Bocco (*Inn, Asti wine) and (3 M.)
Fremia (2621'; Agnello) contain garnets. At (IV2 ^0 Baoeno
(AgneUo)j at the mouth of the Vol Devero, a bold bridge spans the
deep gorge of the Devera. (From Baceno to Fiesch over the Albrun
or the KrUgalp Paasj see p. 294.)
The Iteliau custom-house is at (3 M,) Crodo (1679'; ^Inn),
below which is (1 M.) a rustic bath-house. Then by Roncio and
Oira to (6 M.) Crevola on the Simplon route, and (3^/2 M.) —
21 M. Domo d'Oisola, see p. 290.
82. The S. Valleys of the Valais between Sion and
Turtmann.
(Val d'H^rens, Yal d'AnnivierB, Tnrtmaiin Valley).
Coi^. Maps^ pp. 224, 276, 298.
Good walkers on their way from the Lake of Geneva to Ztrmatt (B. 84)
may avoid the Rhone Valley and reach their destination hy an interesting
mountain-route in 4-6 days. 1st day. By rail to Sion, and walk through
the Yal d'Hdrens to Evolena, 16 M. — 2nd day. Over the Col de Torrent
to St. Luc in the Val d'Anniviers, 8-9 hrs. — 3rd day. Ascend the Bella
Tola, and cross the Pas du BoBuf or the Meiden Pass to Gruben in the
Turtmann Valley, 8Vx hrs. — 4th day. Over the Augstbord Pass to St.
298 Route 82, VEX. The S. VaUeya
Kiklaui in the Yiip Valley, 7 hrs. (or, {hduding the Schwarzhom, S^/s hrs.)*
On the same day Zermatt may be reached by carriage, or on the next
day on foot (i'/s hrs.)-
i. From 8ion through the Val d'Hirens to Evoleiia» and over
the Col do Torrent to the Val d'Anniviers.
To Evolena (16 H.), a post-vehicle with 2-3 seats rang daily at 6.16 a.m.
in 5"/4 hrs. (6 fr. 40 c. ; surplus passengers are sent on in open one-horse
carriages), returning at 1.40 in S'/i hours. One-horse carr. from Sion to
Evolena, 26, or the reverse, 20 fr. — From Evolena over the Ck)l de Torrent
to Vissoye a bridle-path in 8-9 hrs. (guide 12 fr., unnecessary). Horse to
Vissoye 24, to St. Luc 26 fr.
Sion^ p. 283. The road to Evolena leads from the Rhone bridge
(1624') straight to the (72 M.) foot of the mountain , which it as-
cends in long windings. (Short-cut by the old bridle-path.) Bra-
moia lies to the left below , and St. LSonard (p. 284) at the mouth
of the gorges descending from the Rawyl. By the isolated church of
(4 M.) Vex (3140'; rustic Inn) we obtain a view of the head of the
valley, first of the Dents de Veisivi and the Pie d'Arzinot, and then
of the great Ferphcle Glacier, commanded by the round summit of
the Tete Blanche, to the left of which are the Dent Blanche and
the Dent d'HSrene. The cultivation of maize, vines, chestnuts, and
walnuts extends as far as Vex.
A bridle-path ascends from Vex to the right, by PresBe and Lea Agtttes
to (1 hr.) May ens de Bion (4267'*, Pen%. des Mayent]^ 6 fr.), a summer re-
sort of the Slonese, in a beautiful and healthy situation , commanding a
magnificent view of the entire chain of the Bernese Alps. Hence to H^re-
mence, •/* br.
The road, nearly level, skirts the W. slope, high above the
Borgne. The valley divides, 2^2 M. farther up. The W. branch is
the Val (THSrSmenee (see below), and the E. the Val d'Hirens
(Eringer Thai). The road passes the large village of Hirimence on
the hill to the right, and near Sauterot (3050') crosses the Dixen%e,
which descends firom the Val d'H^rtfmence. It then penetrates the
remains of the terminal moraine of that valley by means of two
tunnels. Near the second tunnel in particular, where the road re-
enters the Val d'Htfrens, are a number of ^Pyramids of earth, each
covered with a stone, which belong to the old moraine and are not
unlike 'glacier-tables'.
Val d'Herimenee (or Val d^Orsera'., the upper part Val des Diz). A
cart-track leads from Vex (see above) to (1 hr.) Hirimence (4055'} bed at
the cui<*s); tbenee a bridle-path by the hamlets of Ayer^ ProUUy Ceriu,
and Man to the (3 hrs.) Mayens de Pratlong (5276'), at the W. base of
the Ac d^Artinol (see below, over the Ool de la Meina to Evolena, 4 hrs.).
Farther on, we paas the Mirihi Alp (1.) and ascand a ravine to the upper
part of the valley, called La Banna^ with the Alp of that name on the
right (8094' ^ thence over the Col du Grit to Fionney, see p. 281). Passing
the chalets of Lautaret, we next reach (3 hrs.) the Seilott Alp (7454*). op-
posite which, on the left bank of the Dixenze, is the Uappey Alp (7B90';
good quarters). From Liappey over the Col de RiedtnaUen or the Pat de
Ghtvret to Arolla (Evolenal, see p. 300 ; CoU de Veuevay.de Seilon^ du Mont
Eouge^ and de Breney to the Val de Bagnee^ see p. 282. The ^Pigno d'ArcUa
(12,470') is best ascended from this point over the Glacier de Duremd and
the (^l de Breney (comp. p. 800).
of t&c Fotofa. EYOLENA. 52. 22ott«<. 299
We next leach (2 M.) TJseigne (wine at the post-station),
prettily situated. High above , on the opposite hank, is the church
of St. Martin, Beyond (2 M.) the hamlet of Luette (3347') the road
crosses the Borgne by a bold bridge. (Near the Chalets de Praz-Jean^
higher up, is the old bridge of the bridle-path.) We ascend ou
the right bank below the small chapel of La Oarde, to (5 M.) —
18 M. Evolena (4520'; *H6t. de la Dent Blanche, R., L., & A.
3, D. 3*/2-4 fr.), the capital of the valley, lying picturesquely in a
broad green dale flanked with pine-clad rocks. On the E. rises the
8<i88eneiTey on the W. the Mont de VEtoile and Pic d'Arxinol. Look-
ing up the valley we see the Dents de Veisivi. On the left, high
above , are the snow - fields of the Ferphcle Glacier and the huge
Dent JBlanche.
ExccBBioNs. (Guides : Jean and Pierre Maiire^ Pierre and Jean Bey-
trison, Joseph QuinodoZy M. MHraillery M. Oaspoz^ J. Vteignery M. Pra-
long y M. Chevrier^ and Ant. Bovier.) * AroUa and '*FerpMe^ see below.
— On the B. side of the valley: Villa^ La 8age^ and Forclaz (p. 301),
all with fine views C/4-IV4 hr.). — *8asseneire (10,692' 5 guide 6fr.), by
the Col de Torrent , 6 hrs. , see p. 302. The view from the Gouronne de
Brionna (10,380'; guide 7 fr.), farther S., is similar. — Bees de Bosson
(10,368'; guide 7fr.), 6 hrs., see p. 302.
W. Bide : The Alpe de Niva (0624*), 2 hrs., affords an admirable survey
of Ferpfecle and Arolla. — The *Pic d'Arsinol (9843'; guide 7 fr.), ascended
by the Col de la Meina (bridle-path thus far) in 41/2 hrs., is very interesting
and not difficult. Below Evolena we cross the Borgne and ascend to the
left (avoiding the path to the right to Lanna^ Vz hr.), through wood, and
past the ^Glaci^re Naturelle', a cleft in the rock filled with ice. We cross
(l^/z hr.) the Merdesson^ the discharge of the Glacier de Vouasson, ascend
pastures to the (2 hrs.) Col de la Meina or Col de MiHbi (8878'; thence to
Prazlong in the Val d*Birimence^ 5 hrs. from Evolena, see p. 298), and
mount a rocky arSte to the right to the top (1 hr.). Magnificent panorama,
especially towards the S. (Mont Blanc,- Aiguille Verte, Grand-Combin,
Mont Velan, Matterhorn, Weisshorn), and of the Bernese Alps to the "S.
Descent 2V2 hrs. — Mont de VEtoile (lljOeS*; guide 6 fr.), by the Alps Niva
and Greta in 6 hrs., repaying, but for adepts only ; so also the Pointe de
Vouauon (11,472*), 6-7 hrs., whence we may descend the Glacier dee Ai-
guillee Rouges to the Alp Lucel (see below), and Arolla.
The Val d'Htfrens divides at Handeres (4747'), 1 hr. S. of Evo-
lena. To the W. is the Combe d^ Arolla; the E. branch, terminated
by the Glacier de Ferpicle, retains the name of the main valley.
(a.) •Combe d'Arolla. The bridle-path (to Arolla 3V2 ^rs. ;
mule 8, there and back 10 fr.) crosses the Ferpfecle at Hauderes,
turns to the right, and crosses the Borgne to Pralovin. It then
ascends the W. slope of the valley, overlooking the wild ravine,
and through wood to the (1 hr.) Chapel of St. BarthiUmi (5960'),
by a huge rock. We next ascend gradually , past the (10 min.)
chalets of Gouille ('Blue Lake', see p. 300), Satarma (high above
which, in a side-valley to the right, is the fine Cascade des Ignes'),
Pros Mousse^ and La Montav, to the (IY2 ^'0 Mayens d' Arolla
(6572'; *H6t, du Mont Collon^ pens. 6fr.), amid Swiss stone-
pines (^Arolla' or *Alpine cedar'), splendidly situated opposite the
grand pyramid of Mont CoUon (11,9563) at the base of which the
Glacier d* Arolla (r.) and the Glacier de Vuibez (1.) unite. To the
300 Route S2. AROLLA. Ths S. Vaiiey
light rlBe the rocks of the Serra de Vu{be% (10, ISC') and the snow-
clad Pigno tPAroUa (12,470^, and dose to the inn is the old moraine
of the Olacier de Zigiorenove.
EX0VB8IOH8 (guides, see aboTe). To the *Lao BUn de Lneel, a pleaeani
walk, iVz hr. (or from Evolena 3 hr«. ; without guide). At Oouitte (p.
299) a path ascends to the W. to the chalets of Lucel (6S2(y), a little
beyond which is the clear pale-blue lake, fed by a brook falling from
the rocks. Beautiful view of Mt. CoUon*, to the W. tower the abrupt
Aiguilles Rouges ; to the left is the Ccueade de* Ignes^ descending from the
Olacier des Ignes.
The Kent Oollon (11,956'; guide 40 fr.), best ascended from the 'W.
side (Col de Chermontane), is only fit for adepts with steady heads s so also
the Ev6que (12,264'; guide 50 fr.), rising to the S. of Ht Ck)llon. — The
^Pigno d*Arolla (12,470'; guide 25 fr.) is ascended by the Glacier de Piiee^
or (longer, but easier) by the Col de Riedmatten^ the Glacier de Durand,
and the Col de Breney in 6-7 hrs.; very grand and not difficult. — Tke
Petite Dent (10,465'; guide 8 fr.), one of the Dents de Veisivi, is ascended
without difficulty by the Alp Zarmine. The Grande Dent (11,240'; 10 fr.)
is more difficult. Between the Petite and Grrande Dent the Col de Zarmine
(10,046'), not easy, leads from AroUa to Ferp^cle. — The Aipiille de U
Za (12,050^; 30 fr.), the Bent Perroe (11,992'; guide 35 fr.), and the Sent
des Bouquetins (12,625') involve difficult climbing.
Passes. To Valpsllima over the Col de Collom, a grand route and not
difficult (7-8 hrs. from AroUa to Praray^, two guides, 30 fr. each). We aacend
the Glacier d'Arolla^ skirting the £. base of the almost perpendicular rocks of
Mi. Collon, remarkable for their echoes, to the snow-basin of Za-de-Zan and
the (4 hrs.) summit of the Ool de Oollon (10,270^), to the S.E. of the Evdque
(see above). View grand, but not extensive. Descent over the Glacier de
Collon to the profound Combe d'Oren and (3 hrs.) Prarayi (6598' ; tolerable
quarters at the chalets, but often closed), and in 8 hrs. more (bridle-path)
to Bionoi (6248'), and thenca via (1 hr.) Oyaee (449O0 to (1V« hr.) Valpelline
(p. 282). (Passes from the Val Pellina to the Val St. BartMlemify see p. 268.)
Those who cross in the reverse direction should take provisions from
Aosta; good guides not easily found there, but a peasant who knows
the pass may be found at Bionaz (Bapt. Baraillon, among others). From
Praray^ to the Col 3V3-4, descent to Arolla 2Vt-3 hrs. — From the basin of
Za-de-Zan (see above) we may ascend to the left to the Ool de Za-de-Zaa
(about 10,830), between Mont Bruli (11,880') and the (^1 du Mont Brul^
(see below) ; descent, steep and difficult, to the Glacier de Zeh4e-Zan (p. 267)
and Prarayi.
To THE VAXi d'*HAk£menc£ from Arolla there are two passes close to-
gether, the Ool de Biedmatten (9567'; 4 hrs. to Liappey), and to the 8. of
it the Pas de Ohivres (9354' ; rather more difficult). From the latter we
descend steep rocks and over the Olader de Durand or SeU<m (beware of
numerous concealed crevasses) to the (4>/s hrs.) chalets of Seilon (7454'),
opposite Liappey (p. 298). (The Riedmatten route descends the rocks and
grass-slopes on the right side of the glacier.) Then down the Val dee Dix
to (4V8 hrs,) Hirimenee^ see p. 298. — Or, from the Durand or Seilon
Olacier (see above) we may ascend to the Col de Seilon (10,663'; i^/rd hrs.
from Arolla; p. 282) and thence either descend the Glacier de Oiitroz to
(2^/* hrs.) Mauvoisin (p. 281), or cross the Col du Mont Rouge (10,960^ and
descend the Glacier de Lyreroee to (SVs hrs.) Ckemumiane (p. 281 ( guide
25 fr.).
To THE Val de Bagnes ovtfB the Col de Chermoktane , 11 hrs., a
long and fatiguing glacier-route (guide 25 fr.). We ascend over the moraine,
the lower end of the Glacier de Zigiorenove^ and the Glacier de PUee or
Torgnon to a snowy saddle (10,236') on the W. side of the Serra de F«i&er,
and thence by the Glacier de Vuihet to the Ool de Ohermontaae (10,118'),
between the Petit Mi. Collon (11,630*) and the Pigno d^ AroUa (see above).
Striking view of the Mont Collon , the Dents with the Aiguille de Za,
the Dent Blanche, and to the N. the Bernese Alps. Descentacross the vest
"fuow-fields of the Glacier d^Otemma to Chermontane (p. TIBS). — Longer,
oftheValaU, FERP^OLE. 8^» RouU. 301
bat fttr more itrikingf is the route to Gbermontene oyer the Ool do rSv^qiie
(11,483'; IS hrs.; gmde 90 fr.). Boute over the Glacier d'AroUa to the
Col de ColUm, p. 800; here we aacend to the right to the Col de VEvi-
que, lying 8.W. of the Evtqtu (p. 300), and then descend a snow-ardte
between the (1.) Sengla (12,158') and the (r.) PbM Mont Collon (11,682') to
the Okieier d'Otemma, and as above to Ghermontane.
To ZxucATT ovsB THS CoL i>B BsBTOL, 11-12 hrs., faUgoing but re-
paying (gnide 80 fr.)' We traverse the Olaeier d^AroUa to the Plan de BertoL
and ascend rocks and the steep Olaeier de Bertol to the Col de Bertol
(about 10,800^), between two of the DenU de Bertol (11,506' and 11,148'). We
then cross the vast snow-fields of the Olcteiere du Mont Mini and de Ferpiele,
past the Tite Bkmehe (which takes IV4 hr. more to ascend ; see bek>w), to
the Col d^Hirent. and the Stockje But (p. 802) ; thence to Zermatt , see
below. — OvEB THB Col dd Mont Bbcl^ and thb Gol db Valpxllinb,
another grand route, 12-13 hrs. (guide 80 fr.). We follow the Col de Gollon
route to the basin of Za-de-Zan, ascend steeply to the left to the Col du
KoBt Bruli (10,397'), cross the crevassed upper Za-de-Zan Olaeier (passing
on the left the Dente and Col dee BouquetinSj p. 802), and mount labor-
iously to the Ool de Yalpellise (11,686'), on the S. side of the Tete Blanche
(12,806'; ascended from the col in 'A br.; splendid view; see below). Then
down the Stock Olaeier to the Btoctje (see below).
(b.) •Ferpicle. (Bridle-path, 272 hrs. from Evolena to the inn ;
mule 8, there and back 10 fr.) At (1 hr.) Haud6re«, by the third
house before the bridge (see above) , we diverge to the left, ascend
gradually , and then more rapidly over a rocky height, passing six
chalets. Beyond the next ridge of rock we ascend to the left to (3/4
hr.) Sepey (55809, where the path from Forelaz (see p. 299 ; 1/2 ^^'
longer, but liner) joins ours on the left. The imposing head of the
valley (Glacier de Ferpftcle and Dent Blanche) is now revealed, the
view being finest from the chalets of Prazfleuri, the second group
beyond Sepey. Then through wood to (8/4 hr.) the chalets of Salay
orFerphcle (5910'; H6t. duCol d'Htfrens), splendidly situated facing
the Ferpftcle Glacier, the discharge from which forms a fine waterfall.
Just beyond the hotel a narrow path ascends to the left through
larch-wood and over debris and pastures to the (1 1/2 hr.) *Alp BrieoUa (796Cr),
a strikingly grand point of view. At our feet lies the huge Ferp^cle Glacier,
to the left is the snow-clad Wandfluh, and farther off rise the huge Dent
Blanche and the Grand-Cornier. To the right, separated from the Ferpecle
Glacier bv the Mont Min^, is the Glacier du Mont Hin^ , with the Dents
de Bertol, Aiguille de la Za, and Dents de Yeisivi.
Passbs. To Zinal oveb tub Col dd Gband-Cobnibb, 10-11 hrs., a
superb route, not very difficult (guide 30 fr.). Beyond (IV2 hr.) BricoUa
(see above) we turn to the B. to the Oladir de la Dent Blanche, and
ascend it rapidly to the (3Vs hrs.) Ool du Chrand-Comier or de la Bent
Blanche (11,627'), between the Dent Blanche and the Grand-Cornier. We
descend an arSte to the right and snow-slopes, passing the Roe Noir^ to
the (2Vs brs.) Mountet Club Hut (p. 804), and over the Durand (Zinal) Glacier
to (3 hrs.) Zinal (p. 804}. — Over the Ool de la Pointe de Bricolla,
10 hrs. to Zinal (guide 85 fr.), rather fatiguing. From Brioolla (see above)
we ascend to the N.E. across the Glacier de Bricolla and over steep
rocks, partly covered with ice, to the (SV? hrs.) Col (about 10,180'; splen-
did view), immediately to the E. of the Pointe de Bricolla (see below).
We descend across the Olacitr de Moiry, and by the Col de VAllie^ and
the Alp de VAlUe to (5 hrs.) Zinal. With this excursion may be easily
combined the ascents of the Pte. de Bricolla (12,014'), the BouqueUn (11,430^),
and the Piffne de VAlUe (11,168'). — Over the Col de Couronne {Col du Zati
or Col de Brionna) and the Col de VAlliey see p. 804.
To Zbbkatt oveb thb Col d'H^bens, lO-ll hrs., * very fine route,
302 BouU 52. COL. DE TORRENT. The S. VaUegB
bttt faiignlng (gaide 80 fr.)* From Bri«olla in */4 hr. to the FtfpM4 Glacier,
which we aacend, at first steeply, to the (3 hn.) Ool d'HerefM C11,41T), be-
tween the Wand^uh and the T^t€ Blanche (12,908'^ easily ascended, froui tbe
pass in */« l^^-i ▼b<7 gmd; we may descend to the Col de ValpMine, aad
regain the Zermatt ronte at the Stocl^e*, this adds I^A-IV* hr. to the route;
see above, Col de Valpelline). To the E. towers the orerwhelming Matter^
horn. From the pass we descend steep rocks and the crerassed Stock Olader
to the (1 hr.) Ghib HtU (9062') on the /Stocl^c^ a rocky island at the head of
the ZmuU OUider, between the Stock Olaeier (1.) and the Ti^cnmeMeu
Olaeier (r.)> We descend the latter, skirting the rocks of the Stockje,
to the stone-covered and tiresome ZmtUt Oktcicr, and at length regain a
Arm footing at the (3 hrs.) Staffel-Alp (p. 815). Thence to Zermatt V/t hr.
To PbabatA ovbb thb Coh des Bouqubtihs (10-11 hrs. from Fex<-
p^cle to Prarayen), also fatiguing. We either follow the Col d''H^ren8 ronte
(see above), or ascend the left moraine, past Mont Mini, to the upper Fer-
pide Glacier, and mount to the right to the (Ml dea Bouquetiaa (11,214'),
to the E. of the Dcni des Bougwtuu (12,626'). Descent over the Olaeier de
Za-d»-Zan to Prarayi (p. dOO).
AscBNTs. Dent Blanche (14,318'), very difficult (13-14 hrs. from Fer-
p&cle \ guide 70 fr.)> Ascent usually made from the Stoelge (p. 316). ~
Grand- Cornier (13,022^), from Ferp^le 7-8 hrs., toilsome, hut without
danger (guide 30 fr.).
From Evolkna to Vissoyb oveb the Col db Tobbent, bridle-
patli,8-9 hrs. (guide 15 fr., convenient; horse 24 fr.). Halfway between
Evolena and Hauddres we ascend to the left to La Sage and Villa (to
which a short-cut ascends 20 min. S. of Evolena, to the left, through
a steep gorge). We ascend the Alp Cotter in long zigzags, and then
across slate-d^ris, to the (4 hrs.) *Col de Torrent (9593'), on the
S. side of the Sasseneire (see below), and obtain a striking view
of the Yal d'H^rens and the mountains encircling its upper end
(from r. to 1. : Pointe de Vouasson, Aiguilles Rouges, Mt. Pleureur,
Mt. Blanc de Seilon, Serpentine, Pigno d'AroUa, Petites and Grandes
Dents, Dents de Bertol, Mont Min^, Tete Blanche, etc.).
The *Saa«enoire (10,692'), 1 hr. from the col (with guide) ^ iU stony
slopes steep and fatiguing. Superb panorama of the Bernese Alps to the K. ;
the Jura appears like a blue line beyond the Col de Cheville (p. 230). To
the S. the attention is chiefly arrested by the Dent Blanche (see above).
To the K. of the Sasseneire a bridle-path crosses the Paa d« Lona (8924')
to the Yal d'Anniviers , also a very fine route ; from the Chalets de Pras
Jean to Glrimence 8 hrs. (guide 12 fr.). The Bee* de Botson (10,368' \ superb
view) may be ascended from the pass in 2 hrs.
The path descends in long windings, passing the N. side of the
little Lae de Zozanne (8870') , in full view of the lofty range be-
tween the Anniviers and Zermatt valleys (Gabelhorn, Trifthom,
Bothhom, Weisshom, Brunnegghorn, Diablous), to the Torreni-Alp
(7940') and the (I1/2 hr.) Alp Zatdet-Pras (7083'), in the Vol de
Moiry or de Torrent j watered by the NavigenUj the W. branch of
the Yal d' Anniviers. The valley is grandly terminated by the Olaoier
de Moiry, overshadowed by the (r.) Oouronne de Br^onna , Za de
I'Ano, Pointe de BricoUa, Grand- Cornier, Dent Blanche, (1.) Pigne
de I'AlMe, and the black slaty cone of the Garde de Bordon.
ZiNAL (p. 804) may be reached from this point in SVs hrs. by remount-
ing the E. slope of the valley and crossing the Ool do Sorebois (807(X).
'rom the *'Conu de Sorcboi* (9210), 20 min. to the N. of the pass, we
oftheV(dca$, VISSOTE. 2. Btmie. 303
obtain a splendid view of the Weisshom, Botbhorn, Gabelhorn, Orand>
Cornier, Dent Blanche, etc. Descent by an easy paUi, or (shorter, with
guide) direct through wood to Zinal. — To Zinal over the Col de VAUie
and to Evolena over the Col de Couvonne or the Col d« Brionna^ see p. 804.
Beyond the Alp we traverse a level and monotonous valley and
descend a rocky defile to (1^2 l^r.) Grimence, or Cfremenz (5016'),
a large village. Before us are St. Luc and the BeUa Tola. Then
from Grimence by St. Jean to (1 hr.) a bridge over the Navigenze
(3898'), and to (1/4 hr.) Vissoye (see below).
ii. From Sierre throngh the Yal d'Anniviers (Einfisohtbal)
to Zinal.
To Vissoye (11 M.) a tolerable road; horse 10, one-horse carr. 15 fr.
Sierrtj p. 284. We follow the old post-road to the E. to the
(1 V4 M.) Rhone Bridge (1774'), V2 M. beyond which the road to the
Val Anniviers diverges to the right and ascends rapidly through
wood. Below, to the right, lies ChippiSy at the influx of the Navi-
genze into the Rhone. After an ascent of 2^2 M* ^^ enter the Val
d'Axmivien (Ger. Einfischthat) ^ and next reach (IY4 M.) Nioue
(3050'). Here begins the first of several wild rocky ravines on the
steep slopes of which the road ('Les Pontls') ascends, passing through
four galleries.
A direct route to Niouc for walkers diverges to the right beyond the
church of Sierre, passes under the railway embankment, and crosses a
hill to the new Rhone bridge and (20 min.) CMppis. Beyond the first
house we turn to the left and cross the Kadgente; then, leaving the church
to the left, a narrow path following the telegraph-wires, frequently cross-
ing the road, and at length uniting with it, leads us to (iV4 hr.) Niouc.
A footpath, diverging to the left beyond the first gorge (see above)
leads ttam Niouc by 8u»9aUm (4546*) in 3 hrs. to the lofty village of
(Mandolin (6840*), whence a good path tiirough pine-forest, with beauti-
ful views of the Val d' Anniviers, the Rhone Valley, and the Bernese
Alps, descends to St. Luc in lyahr. — The Illho3m (8935')^ which over-
looks the Illgraben (p. 285), the Rhone Valley, and the Bernese and Valais-
ian Alps, is ascended without difficulty ftova. Chandolin in 21/3 hrs.
Beyond Niouc the beautiful snow-mountains enclosing the val-
ley, the Bothhom, Trifthorn, Besso, Dent Blanche, etc. , are grad-
ually revealed. We next reach (8^/2 M.) the village of Fang, (Trav-
ellers bound for St. Luc must, about Y2 M. below Fang, take a nar-
rower path to the left, ascending gradually to St. Luc in IY2 hr. ;
see p. 805.) The road follows the valley, passing several small
ravines. On the opposite slope lies Painsec, Then (21/2 M.) —
11 M. VisBoye (4002'; ^HoL-Pens, d' Anniviers, R. & A. 2%
D. 3fr.), the capital of the valley, on a hiU on the right bank of the
Navigenze, with a handsome church.
St. Ldc (steep ascent of 1 hr. from Vissoye), Bella Tola (4V2 hrs.),
etc., see p. 806.
Beyond Vissoye (1/4 M.) the road leads towards a saw-mill (not
to the left), and (1 M.) towards the lower cross (not to the right).
Then (8/4 M.) Mission at the mouth of the Val de Moiry (see above),
and (3/4 M.) Ayer (4777'), with deserted nickel-mines. (To St. Luc,
304 BouU82._ ZINAL. The 8. VaUeys
i
see p. 305.) The road ascends a litUe, (^2 M.) crosses a torrent,
and passes a stony wilderness, the scene of a landslip. It then
1/2 M.) crosses the Navigenze , passes a chapel on the left bank,
13/4 M.) recrosses to the right bank, and (2 M.) reaches —
I8V2 M. Zinal (5505'; *M6U'Pen8. Durand. The valley ends
towards the S., 1 hr. from Zinal, in the QlaeUr Durand or Zmal,
Excursions (guide, JShe Piter). The *Alpe de TAUee (7178'), to the W.,
aboye the lower end of the glacier, 2 hrs. from Zinal, commands a noble
survey of the head of the valley, of the mountains from the Dent Blanche
to the Weisshom, and of the glaciers of Durand and Homing, separated
by the beautiful doublepeaked pyramid of the Besso (12,057'). The path
may be found without a guide. Beyond the hotel (10 min.) we cross to
the left bank, and make for the comer of a wood ', V2 ^-^ fragments of
rock, where we ascend gradually; 20 min., a ravine with a waterfall in
the background; 3 min., a stone chalet on the first mountain terrace. Then
rather a steep ascent; >/< hr. , to the left; 10 min., chalet. Descent in
V/t hr.
The *Alpe d'Arpit«tta (7420^), opposite the last-mentioned, to the)r.E.,
affords another grand view, particularly of the Weisshom, the Homing
Glacier, and the Bothhorn. By crossing the terminal moraine of the
Durand glacier (with guide), the two above points of view may be com-
bined. ■— Good walkers, however, should not fail to extend the excar-
sion up the Durand Glacier to the *01ub Hut on the Mountet (93800, at
the S. base of the Besso (dVz hrs. from Zinal), overlooking the grand am-
phitheatre of the glacier, encircled by the Bothhorn, Trifthom, Gabelhom,
Dent Blanche, Grand-Cornier, and Bouquetin. The view is still grander
from the Koc Heir (10,262*), rising from the ice opposite the Mountet, reached
in 1 hr. from the dub-hut (guide from Zinal 10 fr.).
Ascents. The Come de Soreboit (9207' ; 3 hrs. ; with guido easy and at-
tractive, see p. 302. — The Pointa d'Arpitetta (10,302')i from the Alp Arpitetto
3 hrs. (easy and repaying). — Beaao (12,057'), rather steep and toilsome,
for experts only (3^ hrs. from the Mountet; guide 20 fr.); view exceed-
ingly grand. — Pigne de I'AUee (11,168'; 15 fr.), from the Alp de TAU^e
a4 hrs., not very difficult. — Bottquetin (11,430'; 20 fr.), from Zinal over
the Col d€ VAMe and the Glacier de Moiry 6-7 hrs., and SUblons (11,860';
12 frj, by the Alp Tracuit 6 hrs. , both laborious. — The Grand-Oomier
(13,022' ; 30 fr.), is best ascended from the plateau of n6v6 below the C(k
du Orand-Comier (p. 301), the last part difficult. — Zinal-Bothhorn or
Morning (13,855'; 80 fr.-), a difficult and hazardous scramble (from the
Mountet 6-7 hrs.). — Ober-Gabelhorn (13,365' ; 60 fr.), also very difficult.
C!omp. p. 316.
Passxs. To EvoucNA over the Col de SoreboU and Col de Torreniy see
p. 302; by the Col du Orand-Comier^ see p. 801; by the Pae de Lonoy see
p. 302. — OVEB THE Col de X.'ALLfiE AND THE COL DE COUBONNX, 10-11 hrS.
(guide 12 fr.), trying, and for adepts only. From the Alp de rAlHe we
ascend steep grassy and rocky slopes to the Ool de I'AlUe (iO,483'). Descent
to the Glacier de Moiry, and another steep ascent to the Ool de Oouronne
(9896'), between the Covronne de Brionna and the Za de VAno. Then a steep
descent to Ferpicle (p. 301). — Instead of the Col de Ck)UTonne we may
eross the Col de Brionna (9674'), lying to the 17., between the Gouronne
de Brionna and the 8erra Neire^ or the Col du Zati (9433')} between the
Serra Neire and the Pointe de Zaii (both toilsome).
To GsuBEN in the Turtmann Valley over the Pae de la Foreletta or the
Col de Tracuit (des Diablons), see p. 806.
To Zbbmatt oveb the Tbiftjogh, 11-12 hrs., trying and difficult; for
steady experts only (guide 30 fr.). From the (41/2 brs.) Mountet Sut (see
above) we traverse the Durtmd Glader towards the E. to the (IV4 hr.)
foot of the precipitous rocks of the Trifthom (12,260'), and clamber up at
first by a ladder, with the aid of a rope, and then along narrow ledges
of rock and through perpendicular couloirs. The (IVa hr.) Trif^oeh
of the VdLais. ST. LUC. 52. Route. 305
(11,614'), between tbe Trifthorn and the Ober-Gdbelhom (13,365% affords a
striking view of Honte Bosa and the Hischabel. Then down' the Trift
Glacier and its huge moraine to (4 hrs.) Zermatt (p. 311).
To Zbbm ATT OVER THB CiOL DuBAND , lS-14 hrs. (guide 30 fr.). From
the club-hut we ascend towards the S., passing the Boc Noir (see above),
at first gradually, but soon rapidly, and in some years with difficulty, to
the (4 hrs.) Col Durand (ll,398')j between the Mont Durand {Arbenhom,
12,284') and the Pointe dt Zinal (12,48T), where we obtain a most striking
view of the Matterhorn towering opposite. Descent (not direct over the
Hohwdng Olacier to the ZmuU Olader^ as the lower part of the former is
full of crevasses) to the left, over the rocks of the JSbihom, to (3V2-4 hrs.)
ZmuU (p. 316) and (1 hr.) Zermatt (ik 811).
To Zermatt over the HominK Pass (12,445'), between the Bothhorn
and Schallihom (14 hrs.; guide %fT.), and to Banda over the Schidlijoch
(12,307'), between the Schallihom and Weisshorn (14 hrs.; 35 fr.), very
difficult and toilsome.
Fbon Zinal to St. Luc (3 hrs.). We return to (5 M.) Ayer (p. 303)
by the road, ascend to the right, and skirt the hill-side, traversing past-
ures and wood (guide desirable, 5 fr. ; or enquiry may be made at Ayer).
iii. Bt. Luc ; Bella Tola ; over the Fas dn Boenf (or the Heiden
Fasf ) into the Tnrtmann Talley) and over the Angstbord Pass to
the Valley of the Yisp.
Road from Sierre to Vissoye (11 M.); ascent thence to St. Luc, 1 hr.
(from Sierre direct to St. Luc 5 hrs., horse 10 fr. ; comp. p. 303). Luggage
under lOlbs. may be sent by post. Ascent of the Bella Tola from St.
Luc 3V2 brs. i from the Bella Tola to Gruben over the Pas du BoBuf in 4V2,
or the Meiden Pass in 3V2-4 hrs. (guide 10, horse 16 fr.). From Gruben
over the Augstbord Pass to St. Kiklaus 7 (or including the Schwarzhorn
8V2) brs. (guide 12, horse 30 fr.).
St. Luc (5496'; *H6t.'Pen8. de la Bella Tola, new, aboye the
village, with a large d^pendance In the village , pens. 6 fr.), lying
on a steep and lofty slope , amid pastures and fields , commands a
superb view of the profound Val d' Anniviers , the snow - moun-
tains at the head of the valley (Rothhorn, Trifthorn, Besso, Ober-
Gabelhorn, Mont Durand, Matterhorn, Pointe de Zinal, Dent
Blanche , and Grand - Cornier) , and of the Rhone Valley , the
PiableretS) Oldenhorn, and Wildhom to the N. Having been al-
most entirely burned down several times , St. Luc now consists
chiefly of substantial new houses. Above the village , to the
N. (400'; V4 ^^') is the 'Druids' 8tone\ locally called 'Pierre dea
Servagioa' (stone of the savages), a rock projecting from the turf,
the E. side of which is said to have once served as an altar.
About IV? br. above St. Luc (2 hrs. by the direct bridle-path from
Vissoye , 4 hrs. from Zinal) is the H6tel Weisshorn (about 7544'), in an
open and picturesque situation on the Tete du Mouton or Teie A Fia, a
spur of the Rochers de Nava^ with splendid view and rich flora. The Gene-
vese Jardin Alpin has an experimental station close to the hotel. Excur-
sions may be made hence to the top of the Pointe de Nova (9118'), to the
Lac de Tounot (abundant Edelweiss), to the Pa$ de Forektta, to the top
of the Bala Tola (most convenient route), and other points.
The ♦Bella Tola (9758' ; 3^2^^- \ S^^^^ 6 fr. , unnecessary;
horse 8 fr.), an admirable and favourite point of view, is the
N."W. peak of a group of mountains enclosing the large crater-like
basin of the BeUa Tola Olacier on the S. side. From the upper
Babdbkkb, Switzerland. 12th Edition. 20
306 Route 82. MEIDEN PASS. The 8, VaUeya
(£.) end of St. Luc we follow the path to the left (N.), cross
(40 min.) the brook descending from the Bella Tola , and ascend
the pastures to the N.E. towards the 'Chalet Blanc', a white hut
visible from St. Luc, which (35 min.) we leave on the right. We
now bear to the left ; on the next mountain-terrace where the view
of the Bella Tola is disclosed, we incline to the right, reach (1^4 hr.)
the base of the peak, and lastly ascend in steep zigzags, passing a
refuge-hut, and overlooking the BeUa Tola Olaeier (see above), to the
summit. The N.W. peak, that usually ascended, Is marked by a metal
vane, but a path ascends the S. peak (10,138') also. The view em-
braces the whole of the Bernese and Yalaisian Alps , and the eye
ranges over a circle of 200 M. ; opposite, to the N., the whole gorge
of the Dala is visible, up to the Gemml. The mountains to the S.,
from Monte Leone (p. 288) to Mont Blanc, are particularly grand.
In order to reach the Turtmann-Thal we descend from the Bella
Tola to the S., and ascend to the left to the (Ihr.) Fas du Boenf
(9154Q. In descending into the Borterthal we keep to the left, and
in some seasons cross a patch of snow. At (I72 ^^0 the chalets
of Pletschen the track divides : to the left to (2^2 hrs.) Turtmann
(p. 286), to the right to (2 hrs.) Oruben (see below).
The direct route from St. Luc to Gruben crosses the Keiden
Pass (9154'; 5 hrs.; guide hardly needed). After 1/2 ^r. we diverge
to the right from the Bella Tola route (see above) to the (1 hi.)
Alp Tounot (to which we may ride). The path ascends pastures and
then over rocky dtfbris to (I72 J^'O the pass, to the N. of the Tounot
(9920'), with a fine view of the Weisshorn, Brunnegghorn, Batrhor-
ner, and the range between the Turtmann and Yisp valleys. (There
are two Meiden Passes : one close to the Tounot ; ours, */2 ^' *o ^^^
N., may be reached from the Bella Tola in l^^hr., avoiding the Pas
du BoBuf.) We descend past several small lakes (with the Meiden-
hom, 9780', on the right) to the Upper and the Lower Alp Meiden
(7613'; fine view of the great Turtmann Glacier, see below). Lastly
a zigzag descent through larches and stone-pines, to the Alpine
hamlet of (2 hrs.) Gruben, Zmeiden, or Meiden (6060'; *mt.
Weisshorn), in the Turtmann Valley.
Fbom Tustmann (p. 285) to Gbubbn (4 hrs.). The bridle-path ascends
the steep right bank of the Turtmawnbaeh^ through woods and pastures, with
fine views of the Rhone Valley. At (S/4 hr.) Tummenen (S20(/) it crosses to
the left bank, and then leads for 2 hrs. through the Taubwald or Duben-
loaldj a pine-forest now much thinned. In the middle is a little white
chapel with numerous votive tablets. The Vollensteg carries the path back
to the right bank. At Niggelingen, our path is joined by that from the Pas
du BcBuf on the right (see above). Then Btc^el and (IV4 hr.) Griifren.
The Turtmann Valley ends to the 8. in the magnificent Tubtmann or
Babb Glaoibb, imbedded between the DiabUms (11,850'), Weisshorn (14,803'),
Brunnegghorn (12,628'), and Barrhom (11,920'). At its base lie the chalets
of BennVium (1 Va hr. from Gruben). A difficult, but interesting route crosses
this glacier and the Ool dea Biablona, or de Traeuit (10,673'), between the
Diablons and the Weisshorn, to Zinal (9-10 hrs. from Gruben ; guide 16 fr.).
Fbon Gbubbn to Zinal ovxb the Pas dx la Fobolbtta, 8 hrs., not
difficult, and furly interesting (guide 12 fr.). By the Lower Blummattalp^
oftheValais. SCHWARZHORN. 82, Route. 307
1/2 br. above GrubeiK we ascend to the right through wood to the (1 hr.)
Upper Blummatt (7680*), with a fine view of the Turtmann Glacier, Weiss-
faom, etc. Then past the chalets of the Kaltberff, and through a dreary
valley to the (21/9 hrs.) Pas de la FordetU (981(y), between the (r.) Roe de
Budri and the (1.) Orite d^Ombereruta. Fine view of the Valaisian and
Bernese Alps. Descent to the chalets of Remointe (8503'), and over pastures;
lastly through wood, either to the right to (3 hrs.) Ayer^ or to the left to
(4 hrs.) Zinal (p. 804).
From Gruten to St. Niklaus or Stalden in the Vispthal a bridle-
path (7 hrs.; with the Schwarzhorn 8^2 hrs.; guide desirable). It
ascends the steep E. slope of the valley and the Qruben'Alp to the
(3 hrs.) AngBtbord Pass (95150, between the Steinthalhom (10,3000
on the S. and the Schwarzhorn (10,523') on the N., affording a fine
view of the Fletschhorn, Simplon group, and Mischabel.
The ^Bchwanhorn (10,623') is easily ascended in Vt-l hr. from the pass.
Superb view, finer than from the Bella Tola (p. 806) : ^^ the Bernese Alps ,
from the Doldenhom to the Finsteraarhorn ; E., the St. Gotthard group,
Alps of Ticino, Mte. Leone, Fletachhorn, Weissmies, and the imposing
Hischabel; S., Monte Bosa, the Lyskamm, Brunnegghom, WeiBShom,
Dent Blanche, Diablons, etc.
The path descends over d^ris (bad for riding) Into the Augst-
hordthal. We may then either go to the right, skirting the Stein-
thalhom, to the village of Jungerh (splendid view of the Vispthal
from the church; to the left the Gassenried Glacier, Dom, and
Grabenhorn, to the right the Brunnegghom and Weisshom ; in the
centre the Breithorn and Zwillinge), and descend in zigzags to
(3 hrs.) St. Niklaus, Or we may turn to the left and descend to
Emd and (372 hrs.) Stalden (see below).
A route from Gruben to St. Kiklaus by the Jung Pass (about 8840'), far-
ther S., also affords fine views (6 hrs.; guide 12 fr.). — The Barr Pass
(11,800*), Brunneggjoeh (11,100'), and Biesiooh (11,644') are difficult glacier-
passes, fit for experts only with able guides (25-30 fr. each).
St, Niklaus, and thence to Zermatt, see R. 83.
83. From Visp to Zermatt, and over the
Theodale Pass to Ch&tilloii.
Comp. AfapSy pp. 388y S98, 310.
From Visp to Zermatt 8-9 hrs. (Stalden IV4 hr., St. Kiklaus 2V2 hrs. ;
Banda 57s M., Tasch 21/2 M., Zermatt 8V2 M.). Bridle-path to St. Niklaus,
carriage-road thence to Zermatt. Porter from Visp to Stalden 3, to St. Ki-
klaus 6, to Zermatt 12 fr. ; horse from Visp to Stalden 6, to St. Niklaus
12 fr. — Wagli, or light vehicle for 3 pers., from St. Niklaus to Zermatt
15 fr. — The carriages, horses, and guides at St. Niklaus are superintended
by an official who settles the order in which they are to be hired; (Hr.
Seller's vehicles , which bear his name , are independent of this arrange-
ment.) Letteb and Pabgels Post (also for portmanteaux, etc.) from
Visp to Zermatt daily (in July and Aug. twice daily) in lOVs hrs. The post-
vehicle between St. Niklaus and Zermatt takes three passengers, 4 fr.
each. As it does not leave St. Niklaus till noon, travellers starting
early from Brieg with a porter may reach St. Niklaus in time to send on
their luggage by post, and may possibly obtain a seat. Luggage sent by
post from Zermatt to Visp is not certain to arrive in time for the evening
train to Martigny.
From Zermatt to the Th^odule Pass 5V2 \ thence to Valtoumanche 4 hrs.;
20*
308 Route 83. STALDEN. From Visp
an easy route, frequently undertaken by ladies (guide to Breil 15 ft. ; one
sttffieient). From Valtoumanche to Chatillon (new road below Ussin) 4 fars.;
railway ^ence in 60 min. to Aosta , 15>/t X. Carriage with one liorse
from Gbatillon to Ussin 12-15 fr.; with two hortea 23 fr.^ mule and atten-
dant to Valtonrnanche 16 fr. \ guide from Chatillon to Zermatt % fir., firom
Valtoumandlke 20 fr.
The route from Visp to Zermatt is easy and attractive, being varied
with picturesque rock -scenery and waterfalls. At the entrance to the
Vispthal appears the beautiful Balfrin (12,4750i and beyond Stalden the
huge Weiuhom (14,803') and the Brunnegghom (12,628'). »ear St. Niklaus
the Breithom (13,685') and the peak of the Ltttle Maiterhom (12,752') come
in sight. Beyond St. Niklaus the superb Breithom is conspicuous nearly
all the way to Zermatt. Lastly, near Zermatt, the QrMi Maiterhom
(14,706') becomes visible. Besides these, many other peaks, with glaciers
descending from them, are visible on both sides.
Before the last house on the S. side of Visp (2155'; p. 285) the
path turns to the right, towards the rapid and turhld Viap. We fol-
low the right bank of the stream, which fills the entire breadth of the
▼alley, 100' below, cross It by the (1^/4 hr.) Nembrueke, and ascend
more rapidly to (40 min.) Stalden p736' ; *H6t, Stalden, R., L., &
A. 3 fr.), situated in a very fertile region, on a mountain-spur, at
the foot of which the Saaacr and the Oomer Visp unite. The yalley
divides here. The vast group of the Saaagrat, the N.E. spur of the
Monte Rosa mass, separates the Nicolai-Thal from the Saaa-Thal.
The culture of the vine extends about 2 M. beyond Stalden.
To THE SiMPLON HospiCB ovEB THE BisTENEN Pass, 11 hrs., repaying
(guide 15 fr.; Joh. Furrer of Stalden or J.Dwtaz of Simplon : horse oO fr.).
From Stalden the route leads by Staldenried and O^on (8230) to a pass
(about 7200') lying to the N. of the Oehsenhom (9547*), also reached in 4 hrs.
from Visp by Vitperterminen. Descent to the chalets of Biitistaffel (BHO*)
In the upper Nanzer Thal^ ascent again to the Bistenen-Pass (about 7870*),
and descent thence to the Simplon Hospice (p. 288).
The path ascends rather steeply for 20 min., and then skirts the
left bank of the Visp. Above, to the right, are the little church and
hamlet of Emdj situated on so shelving a pasture that, according to
the local wits, the very fowls must be shod with iron to enable
them to keep their footing. We descend in windings , and at the
bottom of the valley cross the Visp (1 hr.). (The old path, diverging
to the left in 20 min., is shorter.) We then ascend the right bank
past a hut, where refreshments may be had, to a (1 hr.) second
bridge over the Visp , where the valley expands, and follow the left
bank to (V2 hr.) —
St. Hiklauf (3820'; pop. 806; *0r. Hotel 8t. Nicolas, R., L.,
& A. 372* ^- 5fr. ; Restaur, Lochmatter^ with beds, moderate),
the capital of the valley. (To Gruben over the Augsthord Pass , see
p. 307.)
Road to Zbbmatt(11 V2 ^O* A^bove St. Niklaus the road crosses
the (72 hr.) Blattbach , which descends on the right from the
Brunnegghorn , and then the Visp by a (1/2 M.) new bridge , as- |
«ends on the right bank, and enters a pine -forest. Passing
2 M.) a lofty waterfall in several leaps to the right , the village of
1/2 M.) Herbrlgen (41 34^), and the chalets of Langenmatt and
I
to Ch&tillon. TH6ODULE PASS. 83, Route, 309
Breitenmatt , we next reach (2 M.) the village of Lerch (4350').
High up on the left is the FestigUtsehefj descending from the Dom
(p. 315) ; to the right is the WeUshom (14,803^ with the Bies-
gletseher; and to the S. rise the Little Matterhom and the snpeih
Breithorn. Between (V2 M.) Banda (4740'; *H6t. Weisshorn) and
(2V2 M.) TsBSch (47770 *^e traces of a landslip which is said to
have buried a whole village are still visible. Opposite to ns (W.)
is the Schallitkal , with the Hohlicht Olacier , commanded by the
Rothhom. (Through the Tdschthal^ to the E., runs the route to the
Alphubeljoch, p. 320.) We next (IY4M.) pass the Hochsteg^ abridge
which carries the old bridle-path across the deep rocky gorge of the
brawling Visp, and cross the stream at the (1/2 M.) BOM (5023').
To the right the stupendous Matterhom now suddenly comes in
sight ; in the middle distance lies the Qomet Olacier ; and above
it stretches the vast Upper Thiodule Olacier^ with the Little Matter-
hom and the Breithorn on the left. The road then passes the (1 M.)
Spiesshrucke^ and traverses meadows to (8/4 M.) Zermatt.
Zermatty Biffelberg, etc., see R. 84. (From the Riffel Inn to
the Thiodule Pass, see p. 313.)
The path from Zermatt to the Thiodule Pass, on the left bank
of the Visp , crosses the Zmuttbach (charming view of the flnely-
wooded Zmutt Valley , with the Matterhom in the background)
and ascends to the hamlets of Flatten and (3/4 hr.) Zum See (57000.
Then a steeper ascent , between stone-pines. Thus far this is also
the route to the Schwarzsee and the Hornli (p. 315). On leaving
the wood we obtain a splendid survey of the Qorner Glacier
(p. 315), with Monte Rosa and the Lyskamm in the background.
After crossing the brawling Furgghach (line waterfall a little farther
up), the path, very dusty in dry weather, ascends the stony slopes in
many windings. On the right is the dirty Furgg Olacier \ above it
towers the Matterhom , which faces us the whole way with varying
outline. An ascent of 3 hrs. more brings us to the moraine of the
Upper Thiodule Olacier (about 8856'), where the bridle-path ceases.
We may then either ascend the glacier (a good deal crevassed, but
presenting no difficulty; rope necessary), to the (2 hrs.) Thiodule
Fass ; or we may follow the path to the left, over rocks and debris,
to the (}k^r.') new FaviUon du ThioduU (about 9840'; Inn, well
spoken of), finely situated on the rocks between the Lower and
Upper Thiodule Glaciers, and thence ascend over the upper glacier
to the Thiodule Fass, or Matterjoch (10,900' ; small Jnn with eight
beds; Win brul^' 3 fr.), to the S. of the Theodulhom (11,393'),
on the frontier between Switzerland and Italy. View limited.
Ascent of the *Breithomj see p. 315.
We now descend to the right (the route to the Col des Cimes
Blanches and Fiiry leading to the left; see p. 327) , over the Val-
toumanche Olacier, which is usually less crevassed than the
Thiodule Glacier. The guides frequently discard the rope here, but
310 BouU83. VALTOUBNANOHE.
it is safer not to dispense with it, especially after snow. In ^2 lur. we
reach the end of the glacier at the spot known as Lea Foumeaux,
The well-defined path (riding practicable) then descends past the
Chalet dea Cora to the (IV2 hr.) *H6t. du Mont Cervin at Giomein
(6956'; R., L., & A. Sy^, D. 4-5 fr.), 15 min. aboTe the chalets
of Breilf amidst imposing scenery (mnles for hire).
Ascent of the Matterhom from Breil, see p. di6. — Over the Col da
Cimes Blanches to FUry^ and thence to Macugnaga^ see B. 86. — Guides
are not always to he found at Breil, hnt always at Valtournanche, a fact
to he noted by travellers coming from the 8.
To PsABATa OTKB THE CoL DE CouRNaBE, 6 hrs., wlth guide, rough
but repaying. We cross the Tournanche */4 hr. beluw Breil and ascend
to the right to the (IV2 hr.) Col de Dta, enjoying a superb survey of the
Matterhorn-, descend a little, then ascend over grass, rock, and snow, to
the (2 hrs.) Ool de Oournere (10,355'), between (r.) the Chdteau de* Dames
and 0) the Aft, Redessau^ with a nne view of Mt. Velan, the Grand-
Gombin, etc. (Fbom Valtocbnanche a bridle-path leads to the chalets
of Chigfuma; thence a steep and laborious climb to the pass, 4Vrd hrs.)
Descent through the Val ds CounUre to (i'/s hr.) Prarayi in the Val
Pellina (p. 300). — The Chateau des Dames (11,998') may be ascended from
the pass in 21/2 hrs. (not very (difficult, guide 15-18 fr.).
We descend to the chalets of Breil or Breuil (6620') and then
traverse an open valley, surrounded by imposing mountains ; to the
right the Matterhorn, Tete du Lion, Dent d'Htfrens (Mt. Tabor),
Jumeaux du Vallon (Polnte Sella to the right , Pointe Giordano to
the left) ; and to the left the Gimes Blanches. At the end of the
level valley are the Chalets d'Aouel. The path now descends steeply
through a wild and romantic defile , crosses (8/4 hr.) the Matmoire
near a fine waterfall in a wild gorge (^Cascade de Busseraillea or
Qrotte du Qiant , approached by a wooden gallery ; 1 fr.) , and re-
crosses it near the village of (8/4 hr.) Yaltonmanche (5060' ; *H6U
du Mont Rose, unpretending), with the church of the upper valley.
To the E. rises the finely shaped Bee Roisetta,
To the Col des Cimes Blanches, see p. 285 ; Col de Coumire, see above.
Guides: /. A. Carrel, or ^Bersaglier\ J. J, and P. Maquignaz, L. Hirin^
J, B. BiCy S, MeffMtU, J. Barmasse^ C. Oorret, G. Pession, and others. —
The Grand Tournalin (11,057'). to the S. of the Col des Cimes Blanches,
reached by Ceneil in 5 hrs., with guide (12 fr), is not difficult for experts.
On the top is the Chc^emna Carrel of the 1. A. C. Splendid view.
We now descend to the lower part of the valley and cross the
Matmoire (to the right the pretty Chignana Waterfall) to (Ihr.)
Vsain (4240'), where the new road begins. High up to the left is
the hamlet of Chamoia (6000') where oats are cultivated, in spite of
the elevation. The first walnut-trees appear at (8/4 hr.) Fiemaz
(Oantine de la Rose) ; on the slope to the right lies the church of
Antey-St-Andri. The dilapidated arches of Roman aqueducts occa-
sionally appear at a great height on both sides of the valley. Behind
us the huge pyramid of the Matterhorn keeps steadily in view as
far as (^2 hr.) Orand Moulin, where it suddenly disappears. The
Matmoire is again crossed 3/4 hr. farther down , and the road runs
among fine walnut and chestnut trees past Champlong to —
1 hr. (4 hrs. from Yaltonmanche) Chdtillon, see p. 268.
VJ
311
84. Zermatt and its Environs.
Comp, Map^ p. 298,
Hotels. •HdTBi.B DD Mont-Cbrvin, *dd Mont-Bosk, and *Zbbmat, all
belonging to Hr. Seiler; R., L., & A. 3V2-4, B. li/s, lunch 3, D. 5, pens.
£■ ^'' ' *^osT, R., L., & A. 2V2, I>. 4 fr. ■- ♦Hot.-Pbns. Riffelalp (also
^J'r. ^«»^«'''«), admirably situated 2 lirs. above Zermatt on the way to the
Biffelberg, excellently managed, R., L., & A. 5, D. 6, pens. 13 fr. (patronised
by the English). — ♦Hot.-Pbns. Riffel or Riffelhaut (Hr. Seiler), on the
Riffelberg, 8 hrs. from Zermatt, R., L., & A. 41/2, D. 5 fr. (The Hotel
Riffelalp is better for spending the night.)
Post and Telegraph OfEoe (comp. p. 307), by the Mont-Cerrln Hotel.
G-uldes abound, and several are first-rate (Alex. Burgener; Franz Biner;
Wetsghorn Biner ; Peter Knubel; P. Taugwalder ; Oen. and Aloie Pollinger; Joh.,
•/OS. Maria, and Clement Perr en; Jos. Moser; Jos. AnAAmbros. Imboden, etc.).
Further information may be obtained from Hr. Seiler. The charges for the
different excursions are stated below in each case. An agreement should be
made with the guide as to the luggage he is to carry. — Horse to theRiffel-
alp 8, Riffel 10, Gomer Grat 12, Schwarz-See 10, Upper Th^odule Glacier
15 fr. — Horses for the Gomer Grat are rarely to be had at the Riffel.
Snglish Church adjoining the Mont-Cervin Hotel.
Dried Plants from the neighbourhood (an excellent field for botanists),
insects, and minerals are sold by Stephan and Joe. Biner, *botanic' guides.
"7 The Exporition Loppi (p. 248) , in the former Hdtel des Alpes , above
the Church.
Zermatt (5315'; pop. 492), called by the Piedmontese Pra-
^orgne, lies in a green valley with pine-dad slopes, above which, to the
S., rises the snowy Th^odule Glacier, commanded by the Breithorn
on the left and the huge rook-pyramid of the Matterhorn on the right.
Zebmatt surpasses the Bernese Oberland in the magnificence of its
glaciers, although inferior in variety. In no other locality is the traveller
so completely admitted into the heart of the Alpine world, the very sanc-
tuary of the 'Spirit of the Alps'. The panorama from the Gomer Grat,
in particular, though destitute of the common attributes of the pictures-
que, cannot fail to impress the spectator with its unparalleled grandeur.
The Zermatter Hof contains an admirable "Relief of the Environs of Zer-
*nott, from, the Weisshom to Macugnaga, by Imfeld (admission gratis).
The Churchyard contains the tombstones of Jf, v. Orote (p. 319), Ch,
Hudson and B. Hadow (who perished on the Matterhorn in 1865), W. K. Wil-
f on (Riffelhom , 1865) , H. (Jhester (Lyskamm , 1869) , and to the right of
the church Michel Croz (p. 316). Beside the English Church, by the H6tel
du Mont-Cervin, repose several other travellers who have perished among
the mountains.
Deservedly foremost among the attractions are the *Biffelbebg
AND QoBNBa Gbat. The bridle-path (to the Riffelhaus 21/2, descent
1 V2-2 hrs. ; guide unnecessary) cannot be mistaken. From the H6tel
du Mont Rose we follow the road, leaving the church to the left, for
8 min., and cross the Visp; on the right bank we ascend through
pastures; 8 min., at the church of WinkeVmatteh (5500'), we turn to
the right; 3 min., bridge over the FindeUnbach, descending from the
left (p. 315) ; here we turn to the right, cross the pasture to the right,
and ascend more rapidly, passing between (7 min.) four huts; then
a wood of larches and stone-pines , where the path ascends the
-PaMistwte to the left ; 35 min., a hut, above the 5cftioepma«, whence
we observe the Visp issuing from the Gorner Glacier, and theFurgg-
bach from the Furgg Glacier (p. 309) ; 25 min., chalets on the Augst-
kummen-Matt (7110'). The steep old path to the Riffel now as-
il2 Route 84. ZEBMATT. Gomer Grat.
cends straight on, irhile the new and easier path to the left de-
scrihes a wide bend through a wood of stone-pines, and passes
the (20 min.) *Pen8. Biffelalp (7306'), commanding a superb
view of the Gorner Glacier, overshadowed by the colossal Matter-
horn, of the Zmutt-Thal with the Dent Blanche, and of the Obex-
Gabelhorn , Rothhorn , Weisshorn , etc. (Small English chapel ad-
jacent.) Above the pension the two paths unite. At the foot of the
Siffelberg (12 min.) we cross the brook, and then ascend in easy
zigzags to the (8/4 hr.) •Riffel Hotel (8430' ; p. 311) , which enjoys
a fine view of the Breithom and Matlerhorn and other peaks. The
Gugel (8680'), the height to the N.E., commands also the Findelen
and Adler glaciers and the Adler Pass.
The •♦Gomer Grat (10,290'; 4975' above Zermatt), a rocky ridge
rising from the table-land of the Riffelberg « and reached from the
Riffelhaus in 1^2 hr. (bridle-path, guide unnecessary; hut at the
top with refreshmts.), commands a most imposing scene (see Pano-
rama). The spectator is entirely surrounded by snow-peaks and
glaciers. The Mischdbelkdmer {^Taschhom, 14,757'; Dom, 14,940'),
huge spurs of the Monte Rosa extending towards the N., between
the twin-vaUeys of Zermatt and Saas ,. as well as the mountains
opposite them (OftiJr-G'aftrifcom, 13,363'; Rothhorn, 13,855'; WeUs-
hom, 14,803'), contest the palm with the giants of the central chain
themselves. Of the peaks of Monte Rosa itself, the highest and one
other only are visible, and its appearance is less imposing than from
the Italian side. The most striking object in the panorama, and in-r
contestably the lion of Zermatt, is the Matterhom (14,705'; p. 316).
Around the base of the Riffelberg, from E. to W., winds the im-
mense Gomer Glacier (p. 315), which is joined in its course by six
other glaciers, and from the base of which issues the Visp (Matterviap),
From the *Hohth&ligrat (10,796'), the E. prolongation of the Gorner
Grat, 8/4 iir. more (for those tolerably free from dizziness; guide con-
venient), the view is still finer and embraces the Findelen (Glacier also.
From the Rifielalp (see above) there is another path to the Riffel Inn,
i/e hr. longer than the above, but more interesting from its frequent prox-
imity to the Gomer Glacier. At the foot of the Rifi'elberg it diverges to
the right from the bridle path and skirts a stony slope (Riffelbord)^ the
haunt of the marmot, at first in the direction of the Matterhom, then
towards the beautiful and dazzling snows of the Breithom, beside which,
farther on, appear the Zwillinge, the Castor (13,880') on the E. and the
Pollux (13,4300 on the W. After 40 min. a path diverges to the right to
the Lower Oorner or Boden Qltuitr^ which at this point, below the ice-
fall, may be crossed in safety (a very interesting way back to Zermatt).
The path to the Riffelhaus continues to ascend the slope and now mounts
more rapidly to the left \ 1/2 br., Qagenhaupt (8430'), a huge mass of rock
to the W. of the Biffelhom (see below) *, then, to the N., to the (20 min.)
Riffelhaus. — The following extension of this walk is recommended.
From the Qagenhaupt we ascend to the £. towards the col, passing close
to the N. side of the Riffelhorn; V2 hr., a small pool. The path leads
towards an opening through which Monte Rosa is visible, passes the little
Si/Telhom-See on the left, and in 1/4 hr. reaches the Rothe Kunuaen, a
rocky ridge to the E. of the Riifelhoni (9616'). The latter, a grotesque peak
about 660' higher than the Rothe Kummen, is a conspicuous feature in the
landscape (ascent, p. 313). The Riffel Inn, i/s br. N.W., is visible as soon
SuAtwRi Ciiiu.3j
1^1
Breithom: ZERMATT^ 84. Route. 313
as the brow of the mountain is reached. The roek-ardte to the E. near
the Bothe Eummen, is the Gamer Cfrat (see above), the ascent of which
from this point takes 1 V4 hr.
For Glacisb Excxtbsions the Riffelhau? is an admirable starting-
point, and these on nearer a,cq^tiaintance lose many of the terrors
with which the imagination invests, them; (Veil or grey spectacles
necessary for long expeditions.)
The ^Thiodnle Pass or Matterjoch (10,900') is 41/4 hrs. from the Biffel-
hans (from Zermatt 5V2) comp. p. 809). Beyond the Rij^elhoiii the path
descends to the Oomer Qlaeiety crosses it, ascends the Loto^r TJUodvU
Olttcier^ mounts the rocks to the right to the (2V2hr8.) new Pavilion du
TModvU (p. 309), and crosses the Upper Thiodule Olacier to the (iV4 hr.)
top (p. 309). (In certain states of the ice it is possible to ascend from
the Lower to the Upper Thdodule Glacier without touching the rocks.)
The <'Breithom (13,686') may be ascended without difficulty from the
Thiodule Pass in 3 hrs. , and from the Pavilion in 4 hrs. (guide from
Zermatt 30 fr.). The route ascends the snow -slopes towards the S.E.,
rounding the rocks of the Little Matterhom {Petit Mont Cervin^ 12,752*}
not difficult), and lastly mounting a steeper slope of ice, where step-
cutting is sometimes necessary. The summit, which slopes gradually
on the X. side , commands a very imposing view : ' towards the W.
towers the gigantic Matterhorn ^ to the left of it Hont Blanc ; to the
right of it the Dent- Blanche, Grand-Cornier, Gabelhom, Trifthorn, Both-
horn, Schallhom, V^eisshom; N. the Bernese Alps, the Saasgrat (Balfrin,
Kadelgratj Dom, Taschhom, Alphubel), AUalinhom, Bimpfischhom, Strahl-
hom; E., Monte Bosa, Lyskamm, the Zwillinge; S., the Graian Alps
(Grand Paradis and Grivola). Descent to the Thiodule Pass 11/2-2 hrs.
The *Oima di Jazzi (12,526'), also easy (5 hrs. jTguide 12 fr.). From the Biffel
we follow the Gomer Grat route to the (V2 hr.) Rolhe Boden (9121') then turn to
the right and skirt a steep slope as far as the (1 1/4 hr.) Oorner Olt»cier\ reaching
it at the ^Oadmen' (8620'). A gradual ascent on the ice brings us to the (1 hr.)
Stoekknubel (9957'), a resting-place at the rocky base of the Stockhorn (11,594') ;
thence 274 hrs. to the summit. Superb view, but often hazy on the Italian
side. Care must be taken not to approach the overhanging snow on the
E. (Macugnaga) side ; were it to give way, the traveller would be pre-
cipitated to a depth of 3-4(XXK. If strength permits, we go on to the (1 hr.)
Jieto Weistthor Pats (p. 314), whence the view of Macugnaga below, ap-
larently only a stone''s-throw distant, is very striking. Back to the Biflfel
-4 hrs. — Descent to the Biffelalp or Zermatt across th^ Findelen Olacier not
recommended on account of the extensive moraine (comp. p. 315).
The Ober-Kothhom (11,214'), better from Zermatt, see p. 315.— The
Biffdhom (9616'; guide, with rope, advisable, 5 fr.), IV4 hr. from the Biffel
Inn, afibrds a fine survey of the Vispthal. — The Lyskamm (14,890'), ascended
by the Lysjoeh (see below) in 7-8 hrs. , is difficult, and dangerous on ac
count of the overhanging masses of snow on the final ardte.
*Kont6 Boaa, HUchste^ or Dufour- Spitze (15,217'} two guides, 40 fr.
each : porter 25 fr.) was first ascended by Mr. Smyth in 18(^, with Job.
znm Taugwald (comp. p. 318). For experts the ascent is free from danger
or serious difficulty, but it is attended with much fatigue, and requires a
perfectly steady head. The route (8-9, there and back 12-14 hrs.) descends
Delow the Gomer Grat to the Qadmen rock (see above), crosses the Gomer
Glacier, and ascends the Monte Rota Olacier to the (3 nrs.) Plattje C3Si(y)\
then over snow to (1 hr.) Au/^m Felt iOberet Platte, 10,^0'). Again an
ascent of 3 hrs. over snow, very steep at places , to the Battel (14,285'),
where the S. peaks of Monte Bosa are revealed. We now (the most dif-
ficult part) ascend precipitous snow-ardtes, and at last gain the top (1 hr.)
by clambering over perpendicularly piled slabs of rock. *^View exceedingly
grand. (Admirable Panorama by Imfeld.) — Besides the Dufour peak, the
following also belong to the Monte Bosa group : Nord-End (15,132'), Zum-
stein-Spitte (16,006'), Signal-Kuppe (14,964'), Parrot-SpiUe (14,577'). Lvdwigs-
Mhs (14,252'), Bahnenhom (14,186'), Sehwarthom (14,090'), and Vinc9»t>^
PyranUde (13,420*).
I
314 RouUSd. ZBRMATT. Weissthor.
TovB, OP MoNTK fiosA (three days to Mdcuffnaga), see B. 86.
Passes. To Bbbil in the Va.1 Toumanehe ^ or to FiteT in the Ayas
Valley, over the ThioduU Patt (10,eOO'), not difficult ^nide 16 fr.^ see R.
83 and p. 324). To Breil over the Furgffjoch (laJBeC), to the £. of the
Matterhorn; or over the Col de Tovrncmehe (11,378'), to the W. of tbe
Hatterfaom*, both difficult (guide 30 fr.). Col du Lion (11,844'; guide 40 fr.),
duigerous owine to falling stones, see p. 316. — To FiAbt over the
Bohwarithor (12,7770, 10-11 hrs. from the Kifiel (guide 3dfr.), difficult.
The track ascends the -Oomer Olader and the crevassed Schw&rxe Glacier
to the summit of the pass, between the Breithorn and the Pollux, and de-
scends the Verra Qlader and Klein- Verra Glacier to the Yal d'Ayas. Over
the Yerra-Fass or ZwiUings-Faas (about 13,100*), between the (Castor and
Pollux, also difficult. — To Gbkssoney over the Lysjoch, 12-14 hrs. from
the Biffel, laborious (guide 50 fr.). The Uonte Rosa route is followed to
the Plattje (see above), and the right side of the crevassed Grenz Glacier
ascended, skirting the slopes of the Dv/otir-Spilze (beware of ice-avalanches),
to the upper snow-basin of the glacier, enclosed by a majestic amphi-
theatre of the peaks of Monte Bosa, and the (6-7 hrs.) Lyuoch (14i,04O'),
between the Lyskamm (14,890') and the LtidtcigthOhe (14,252'), affording to the
6. a superb ^'Yiew of the plain of Piedmont enclosed by the Apennines
and the Maritime Alps. Descent across the Lpt Glacier (with the VineetU-
Pyramidey 13,920', rising on the left; ascent 1 hr.), to the (IV2 hr.) well
fitted up Capanna Qni/etti (11,901') of the I. A. C. ; thence either to the
left across the Garstelet and Jndren Glaciers to the. (IV2 hr.) Col delle
Piscie (p. 323) ; or to the right by the Garstelet Glacier to the (11/2-2 hrs.)
Capanna Linty (10,200*) at the base of the Hohe Licht (11,634^. Thence
into the Yal de Lys, to the Lavez Alp (quarters) ant to (S'/zhrs.) Gressoney-
la-THniU (p. 323). — From the Biffel to Gressoney over the Felikjoch
(13,514'), to the £. of the Castor, difficult, and dangerous owing to
frequent ice-avalanches ; 12 hrs. to Gressuney-la-Trinit^ (guide 35 fr.).
On the S. side of the pass, 2 hrs. below it, is the Capanna QuifUino Sella
or Lyskamm Club-hut of the I.A. C. ; comp. p. 323. — To Alaona in the
Yal Sesia over the Sesia Pass (14,436'), between the Signalkuppe and
the Parrot-Spitze, very difficult and dangerous. Over the Piode-Joch {Jppolita
PasSi 14,186'), between the Parrotspitze and the Ludwlgshohe, also dan-
gerous (feasible in the reverse direction only, from the Bors Alp^ p. 323,
and up the Piode Glacier), — All these passes are for experts only, with
first-rate guides.
ToMagdgnaoa over the New Weissthor (about 11,800'; 9-10 hrs.; guide
30 fr.). The route to the pass (5 hrs. including the Gima di Jazzi, a di-
gression of V4-I hr. ; see p. 313) is one of the easiest and finest of glacier-
excursions. Beyond the pass a farther ascent is made over abrupt rocks ;
then a giddy descent, along perpendicular cliffs and over precipitous snow-
fields. This difficult part of the route takes IV2-2 hrs., and Macugnaga
(p. 317) is reached in 2 hrs. more. — The Old Weissthor (11,730*), be-
tween the Cima di Ja'^zi and the Fillarkuppe (12,070'), one of the most
difficult of Alpine passes, has of late years been crossed by Messrs. Schlag-
intweit, Tyndall, Tuckett, and other mountaineers. Several different
routes: to the N. is the Jazzi Pass^ close by the Cima di Jazzi; to the
S. of it, on the Weissgrat, is the J€Uzikopf^ with the couloirs descending
from it ; then the Old Weissthor proper (?), immediately to the K. of the
Fillarkuppe. Between the Fillarkuppe and the Jdgerhorn is the Fillar
Pcus (about 11,800'), and between the Jagerhorn and the Nordend is the
J&gerjoch (about 12,e(X)'). Descent from all these to the Jazzi Glacier exceed-
ingly steep, and dangerous owing to falling stones. — To Saab over the
Schwarzberg- Weissthor J see p. 319.
Excursions f&om Zebmatt. The Rlffel Hotel, and the ex-
peditions best undertaken thence, see pp. 312, 313.
To the ^Gorges du Gorner (1/2 hr.). We follow the Thtfodule
route to the (20 min.) lower bridge over the Zmuttbach, and turn-
ing to the left reach (10 min.) the entrance (1 fr.) to the pictui-
Hdm». ZERMATT. 84. Boule. S15
esque gorge , throngh wMeh the Matter -Visp dashes in hra-wling
cascades. Bridges and paths lead to (5 min.) the upper end of the
gorge. — To the *Gonier Glacier (1 hr.). We follow the Theodnle
ronte farther up , and ahore the hamlet of Zum See (p. 309)
ascend to the left to the foot of the glacier , from the ice-cavern of
which issues the Gomer or Matter-Visp, A bridge crosses to the
Schwegmatt (5980'), whence we may return to (1 hr.) Zermatt by
a path which soon unites with the Riffel loute.
To the Schwarzaee (8392', to which we may ride) and "'Hdrnli
(9492'), a favourite excursion (3-31/2^18.; guide 6 fr.). We di-
verge to the right from the Theodule path by the last houses above
Zum See (p. 309), and reach the 8chwarz-8ee in 272-3 hrs. (new
Inn^ R. 2^2} D- 4 fr.) ; thence a steep ascent of 1 hr. to the top of the
Homli , where we obtain a superb view , particularly of the stup-
endous Matterhorn (p. 316). — From the Schwarzsee over the tongue
of the Furgg Olacier and the crevassed Oomer Glacier to the Riffel
Inn 4 hrs., a grand route (with guide 10 fr., including the Hornli).
To the Staffelalp (3V2 bra. there and back ; without guide). Above (}/a hr.)
Zum See the path diverges to the right from the Thdodule route and
follows the right side of the deep Zmutt-Thal, through beautiful stone-pine
and larch wood, to the (IV4 hr.) Staffelalp (7043'), commanding an ad-
mirable view of the huge Matterhorn with its glacier, the rock-strewn
Zmutt Glacier with the Stockje, the Stock Glacier and TSte Blanche, and
(r.) the Hohwang Glacier ; behind us, the Bimpfischhom, Strahlhorn, and
Stockhorn. A shorter way back (stony) leads by the hamlet of Zmutt on the
left side of the Zmuttbach, to which we cross by a bold bridge. — From
the Staffelalp we ascend the stony Zmutt Glacier to the C^Vz brs.) Cl^
But (90670 on the Stockje (p. 3()2*, where the night is spent by travellers to
Evolena, etc.), whence the *Tete Blanche (t2,303')) a magnificent point,
may be ascended in S*/? hrs. (comp. p. S02 *, guide from Zermatt 20 fr.).
To the Tindelen Glaeier, 3 hrs. (guide 5 fr., unnecessary). We follow
the Ri£fel path to the (1/4 hr.) church of Winkelmatten (p. 311), and
diverge to the left, on the right bank of the Findelenbach^ to Findelen (6808')
and the (IV2 hi**) Eggenalp (7182') where the path divides; both paths
lead past the Stelli-See (8343') to the (iV4 hr.) Fluh-Alp (8570') , whence
the glacier mav be surveyed. A pleasant path also leads ttom. the Pens.
JtiffekUp (p. 312), mostly through wood, to (40 min.) Findelen. Near the
end of the glacier, by the left moraine (1 hr. from the Rifielalp) lies the
little Oransee (7580"). — A path also leads by Findelen to the Lower (10,190^)
and Upper (11,214') Bothhom. Ascent of the latter interesting and not
difficult; 5 hrs. from Zermatt; guide 10 fr.]
*MetteUiorB (11,188'; 5 hrs. ; guide 10 fr.), an admirable point (Mat-
terhorn, Zinal-Rothhorn, Gabelhom, Weisshom, and Mischabel). Bridle-
path for 3V2 hrs.; then over ddbris and snow, not difficult.
*U]iter-Oa]beIhom (11,148'; 5 hrs., guide 25 fr.), not difficult for experts.
Ascent over grass and debris, Uien through a steep couloir generally filled
with hard snow (step-cutting necessary), lastly a climb over rocks. Beauti-
ful view of the Matterhorn (quite near), the Dent Blanche, Ober-Gabel-
horn, Bothhom, Weisshom, Mischabel, Monte Rosa, Lyskamm, Breithorn,
and Mont Blanc in the distance. — Strahlhorn (13,752'; 8 hrs. ; 30 fr.), up the
Findelen and Adler Glaciers, not difficult. — Bimpfischhom (13,790'; 8-9
hrs. 5 40 fr.), by the Langen/luh Glacier^ difficult. — Bom (14,940'; 11-12 hrs.
from Randa; 50 fr.), very toilsome, but without danger or serious difficulty
for adepts. Usual to bivouac under the rocks 3>/a hrs. above Randa ; then
cross the Festi Glacier and the arete which separates it from the Hohberg
Glacier; and lastly ascend over steep snow and ice to the (7-8 hrs.)
summit. View one of the grandest among the Alps.
316 RouU84. ZERKATT. Jtatterhom.
Very difAcnlt (for thorough experts only, with flrst-ntte guides), and
not altogether free from danger : ODer-Oabelhom (13,365' •, 8-9 hrs. \ guide
GOfr.), better from the W. side (Col Durand). — Zinal-Bothhon {Morning^
13,866^ 9-10 hrs.; 80 fr.j ascent from Zinal, p. 90A). — Weisahom (U,803';
80 fr.), from Sanda 10-11 hrs.: up the acftalliberg - Alp to the Weitshom
Hut on the Bohlieht (93SO0t where the night is passed, 4 hrs.j thence up
the E. arSte to the summit, 7-3 hrs. — Sent Blanche (14,318'; 10-12 hrs. ;
70 fr.), from the 8toekj€ Hvt (see abeye), and up the Wandjtvhgrat; possible
in a favourable .state of the ice only (comp. p. S02). — Dent d'Hirens (MorU
Taibor, 14,706'; 70 fr.), 7-8 hrs. from the Stockje, by the Tie/enmatten Glacier.
The Katterhom, Ft.' Mont Cervin^ Ital. MonU Silvio (ii,705'\ two
guides, 100 fr. each, or with descent, to Breil 160 fr.; porter to the
upper hut 30 fr.) was ascended for the first time on 14th July, 1866, by
the Rev. Mr. Hudson ^ Lord FraneU DouglM^ Mr. Whymper^ and Mr. Hcuiow,
with the guides Michael Crox and the two TaugttcUders. In descending
Mr. H84ow lost his footing not far from the summit, and was precipitated
along with Mr. Hudson, Lord Francis, and Croz, -to .a depth of ^XX)' towards
the Uatterhom Glacier, tfr. Whymper and the two other guides escaped
by the breaking of the rope. — Three days later the ascent was again
made by four guides from Brfiil (p. 810) , and it is now frequently
undertaken both fyoifi Zermatt and Br^. The .rock ha^ been- blasted
at the most . difficult points, and a rope attached to it, so that ^e most
formidable difficulties have been remoVed; but even now the ascent should
not be attempted by any but proficients. The ascent takes 13-14 hrs.,
including halts : from Zermatt to the lower hut at the beginning of the
N.E. arete (10,745'), .5 hrs. ; thence to .the upper hut (12,608') 3 hrs., and
to the summit 3 hrs. more (excl. of halts). — The ascent from Breil
(p. 294) is more difficult: over the Col du Lion (iii&W) to .the new Cabane
de la Tour (12,760*) of the I.A.C. in 5-6 hrs., and thence by the Mauvai*
Pas, the Col Tyndall, the Craea<«, with the old Italian refuge-hut, and
the Pic Tyndall to the top in 6-7 hrs. more.
Passes. To Zimal over the Trifljoch (11,614'; guide 30 fr.), difficult,
see p. 304; over the Col Durand (11^,398'; 30 fr.), less difficult, but longer,
see p. 306; over the Morning Pass (12,445'; 30 fr.) and the Sehdllijoeh
(12,307'), both very difficult, see p. 305. — To Evolsna in the Val d'H^rens
over the Col d'Bdrens (11,417'; 35 frOt iess trying from this side than from
Evolena, see p. 302. To Abolla over the Col de Bertol (10,800'; 30 fr.),
laborious, see p. 301 ; over the Col de Yalpelline and Col du Mont BruU
(10,397'; 30 fr.), see p. 301. — To Chermohtamk over the Col de VaJpel-
line. Col du Mont BruU, Col de PEveque, and Col de Chermontane (the
^High-level Route'; 30 fr.), a long day's journey. To Valpslluia over the
Col de Valpelline (ll,686'i guide 30 fr.), see p. 267. All these routes are
much facilitated by spending a night at the Club Hut on the Stodge (p. 302)*
— To Chatillom in the Aosta Valley over the Thiodule Pass (10,900'), easy ;
guide to Breil 15 fr. ; see p. 309. — The Sehieargthor, Lpsjoeh, and Weissthor,
see p. 814. — To the Saab Vallst four glacier-passes: the Schwart-
berg-WeisstJior (11,850'; guide 25 fr.); Adler Pass (12,460'), AUalin Pass
(11,713'), and Alphubel-Joeh (12,474') ; for each, guide 30 fr. (comp. p. 319,820).
85. From Vogogna to Maoagnaga, and over the
Monte Moro to Saas and Visp.
Comp. MapSy pp. 398^ SIO^ 288.
19-20 hrs.: From Vogogna or Pallanzeno (p. 276) to Hacugnaga 7>/4 hrs.
(to Ponte Grande 7V2 M., Vanzone IV4, Ceppomorelli 2V8 M. ; Prequartero
Vshr., Pestarena IV4, Borca Vz, Macugnaga J/jhr.); back in 6 hrs. (to Van-
Bone 3V«, Vogogna 2V2 hrs.). Carriage-road as far as Ceppomorelli. From
Macugnaga to the Moro Pass 4, descent to Saas 41/2) to Visp 41/2 hrs. (In
the reverse direction: from visp to Stalden l«/4 hr., Balen 3. Saas 1, Al-
magell 1, Im Lerch IVz^ Mattmark 1, Distelalp >/«) Moro Pass 2, descent to
Macuenaira S hrs.). — Guide unnecessary, except for the Monte Moro (from
PONTE GRANDE. 85. Route, 317
Hsci^ftga to the Mattmarkalp 12, to the Thaliboden 8 fr.). In the reyerse
direction it is advisable to engage a guide at Saas, as guides are seldom
found at Mattmark (from Saas by Fee to Mattmark, and to Macugnaga
next day, 15 fr.}. Hobss from Yisp to Saas 20, from Saas to the Mattmark
10 fr.; one-horse carriage from Vogogna orDomo d'Ossola to Ceppomorelli
15-20 fr. i from Ceppomorelli to Vogogiia 12 , Domo d'Ossola 15 , Premia
25 fr. — A single traveller may take the Dilioenza (open carr. with one
horse), which plies daily from Vogogna to Ceppomorelli at 3 p.m.) arriv-
ing at 7 p.m. ; 4 fr.) in connection with the diligences over the Simplon.
The Koro Pass was the usual Alpine bridle-path from the Valais to Italy
before the construction of the Simplon road, but is now frequented by
pedestrians only. Its great attraction consists in the immediate proximity
of Monte Rosa , especially near Macugnaga , and the views will compare
with the finest in the Chamonix region and in the Bernese Oberland.
Vogogna (741 Q, see p. 290. The Road to the Valle d'Anzasca
divexges to the left from the Simplon road beyond (I1/4 M.) Ma-
8one (p. 290), and leads through the broad level valley on the left
bank of the Anza to (IV4 M.) Pie di Mulera (Inn), the flist vill-
age in the *Val d'Anzasca. (Travellers from Domo d'Ossola to
the Yal d'Anzasca quit the Simplon route at Pallanzeno ;
see p. 290.) The road ascends, passes through two tunnels, and
skirts fertile and vine-clad slopes overlooking the Anza. Charming
and varied views. Near (8^/4 M.) Calasca , with a pretty waterfall,
the road descends to the Anza. Near (IY4 M.) Ponte Grande (H6t.
du Grand Pont, clean) the stream descending from the Val Bianca
forms a waterfall. Gold-mines in the vicinity. On the hill opposite,
on the right bank of the Anza, lies Bannio (2237' ; Osteria del Pino,
very plain). (Over the Col di Baranca to FobellOy and over the Col
d^Eigua to Carcoforo, see p. 424.) We next reach (I3/4 M.) —
974 M. Vanzone (2290'; pop. 470; H6t, des Chasseurs du Mont
Bose')j the chief village in the valley. The Q/^ht.') chapel commands
a superb view of Monte Rosa. The road ends at (21/2 M.) —
II8/4 M. Ceppomorelli (2427'; *H6t. des Alpes, R. & A. 2,
B. 1-1 V2 ^^'J Mondo d'OroJj and here begins the —
Bridle Path (mule to Macugnaga 10 fr.). Near (20 min.)
Prequartero a path diverging to the right crosses the Mondelli Pass
(9320') to the Saasthal (p. 319), but commands no view of Monte
Rosa. Near (20 min.) Campiolli the path crosses the Awm, ascends
the rather steep Morgen (auberge beyond the top of the hill) and
again descends to the stream. Near Pestarena we keep to the right
where the path divides.
At (1 hr.) Pestarena (Albergo delle Alpij well spoken of; AW.
dei Minieri , plain) are mines yielding metal-ores. Near (1/2 hr.)
Borca (Inn), the first village where German is spoken, a fine water-
fall descends from the Val Quarazza on the left (p. 322), and a little
farther on Monte Rosa is fully revealed for the first time.
The parish of Haeugnaga consists of six different villages:
Pestarena, Borca, In der Stapf (or Staffd), Zum Strich, Aufder
Rive, and Zertannen. We next reach (1/2 l^r-) In der Stapf. The
other villages are only a few minutes' walk apart. The hamlet Zum
Strich is generally n&med Macugnaga (5115'; *H6t. Monte Rosa, kept
s
as Route 85. MACUGNAGA. From Vogogna
by Lochmatter, R. & A. 3, B. IV2, I>- ^^2 fr-; *B6t. Monte Moro,
same charges ; no post-offlce ; poste restante letters are left at Geppo-
morelll). The Tillage is situated in a pleasant grassy dale, enclosed
by a majestic amphitheatre of snow-clad mountains : (1>) the four
peaks of Honte Bosai Signalkuppe (14,964'), Zumsteinspitze
ISjOOGQ, Hochste for Dufour) Spitze (15,2170, an^ Nord-End
15,1320; then the Jagerhom (13,0420, FiUarkuppe (12,0700,
Alt 'Weisathor (iiJSO'), Cima di Jazzi (12,5260, Neu-Weissihor
(11,8000, Schwarzherg-Weiasthor (11,8500, Rofelhomer (11,4220,
Roihhom (10,6200, and Faderhom (10,5480- The church of the
first Tillage (now buried), built in the 16th cent., with the old
commnnal lindentree, is worth a Tisit (20 min. from the H6t. Loch-
matter). Among the interesting tomb-stones are those of D. Mari-
nelli and the guide Imseng, who perished on Monte Rosa in 1881.
Excursions. (Guides to be heard of at the hotels.) From the (2 hrs.)
"^BelTedere, above Macugnaga, to the W., this amphitheatre is surveyed
at a glance from summit to base; and the view embraces the parish of
Macugnaga with its pastures and fields, the beautiful larch-forest on the
right side, and the grassy slopes above them. Guide hardly necessary.
From the Hotel Lochmatter we pass the church of 9f acugnaga, and proceed
in the direction of the church of the uppermost hamlet of Zerfoimen, where
a guide-post directs us to the right to the Weissthor and to the left to the Bel-
vedere. In about 1/4 hr. we cross the Anza, and almost immediately a second
bridge, and then follow a good path through bushes and pastures to the wood-
clad hill, which separates the two tongues of the Macuffnctffa Qkusier (laat part
steep). — OvES the Hagugnaoa Glacies to the Pedbiolo Alp (there
and back 6 hrs.; guide 6 fr.), repaying. About 1/4 hr. above Zertannen we
ascend to the right (leaving the Belvedere path on the left), over the
RofeUtaffel Alp (where the route to the New Weissthor diveriges to the
right), to the Jatzi-Alp; then past the Fillar Alp (above which to the
right IS the Jazzi Olacier^ crossed on the way to the Old Weissthor) to the
McKugnaga Olaeier, and across the latter (superb view) to the (3 hrs.) Pe-
driolo-Alp (6952'; milk); we return either by the high-lying Croza Alpy or
by a shorter route across the glacier, the S. arm of which is called the Pe-
driolo Olacier, passing the Belvedere (see above).
Fizzo Bianco (iO,i9(y; 5-6 hrs.; guide 10 fr.), a splendid point of view,
fatiguing but without danger; last hour over steep snow.
Honte Rosa, ffifehtte Du/owspUze (15,2170, very difficult and dan-
gerous from Macugnaga (first time, 1872). The night is spent in the (7 hrs.)
Capanna Marinelli of the I.A.C. (KXieS*) on the MgerrUeken. Thence to
the Dufourspitze about 9 hrs. (p. 313).
To Zshmatt over the New Weissthor (11,800'; guide 30, porter 15 fr.;
10-12 hrs. from Macugnaga to the Riffel Inn , p. 312) , a grand route for
adepts with good guides , without danger or serious difficulty. From
this side, however, owing to the steepness of the ascent, the route is
much more fatiguing and takes 1 hr. longer than from Zermatt. The Old
Weissthor (11,730'), very difficult, and not without risk, is better from
this side than from Zermatt; see p. 314.
Frok Maguonaoa to Alaona over the C0I del Turlo or the Col dette
Loede, see p. 322; to Carcoforo over the Col delta Moriana or the Col
di Botiggia^ see p. 424; to Riha by the Little Turlo^ see p. 424.
The path to Monte Moro leads past Auf der Rive (p. 317), and
then ascends through larch-wood, over stony pastures, and lasUy over
rock and a shelving patch of snow. The (4 hrs.) *Monte Moro Pass
r9390n, between (1.) Monte Moro (9803'j and (r.) the St. Joderhom
(9972'), affords an admirable survey of the grand Monte Rosa group
p
to Visp, MATTMARK ALP. 85. Route, 319
to the S.W., flanked with (1.) the Mte. delle Loccie, Pizzo Bianco,
and Turlo, and (r.) the Fillariiuppe, Alt-Weissthor, Gima di Jazzi,
and Bofelhomer ; to the N. are the valley of Saas and the Mischahel,
with the Bietschhoin in the background.
The St. Joderhorn, or JPitzo S. Piftro (9972'), to the E. of the pass,
a still finer point of view, may be ascended without difficulty in >/« br.
We descend by the side of the small Thallihoden Olacier by rude
steps of rock, the remains of the old bridle path, to the (8/4 hr.)
ThdlUboden (SIQCQ, a small moss-grown plain below the Seewinen
Olaeier, where the route from the MondelU Pass (p. 317) comes
down on the right. Towards the N.W. the Mischabelhomer (Dom
and Taschhom) are revealed; nearer are the AUalinhorn, Innere
Thurm, and Strahlhom. Crossing the ThaUibachj we next reach
(3/4 hr.) the chalets of the Distelalp (7190') and the (V2 hr.) *H6tel
Mattmark (6965'; homely, R. & A. 31/2, D- 4 fr.) on the Kattmark
Alpf 10 mln. from the upper end of the sombre little Mattmarksee
(6965'). Down to 1818 the SchwarzbeTg Olaeier extended across
the bed of the lake, but afterwards receded, leaving behind it its
moraines and a huge block of serpentine cidled the Blatte Stein to
mark its former extent. It is now only visible high up above the
cliffs. Travellers coming from Yisp had better spend the night at the
Mattmark Inn , as they will then be able to reach the pass before
the noon- day mists rising from the valleys obscure the view.
From Hattmark to Antrona (and Domo d'Ossola) over the Antigine or
Ofenthal Pass, see p. 290. — The Stellihom (11,393'), ascended from the
Hattmark Inn by the Ofenthal in 41/2 hrs. (not difficult; guide 6 fr.), affords
an imposing view of the Bastem Alps.
Glacibb Passes to Zbbhatt, for mountaineers, with good guides :
The Schwaraberg-Weissthor (11,850'i 10 hrs. ; guide 25 fr.). The route
skirts the left side of the Bchwartherg Olacier .^ ascending rock and moraine,
and crossing the erevassed glacier to the (4-6 hrs.) pass, lying to the S. of
the SiraMhom, (The New Weissthor, leading from Zermatt to Hacugnaga
lies farther S. ; comp. p. 314.) From this point to the RijS^el, see p. 813.
The Adler Pass (12,460'; 11-12 hrs. •, guide 30 fr.). From the inn we
cross the Thallibach to the chalets of the Mattmark Alpy and ascend ra-
pidly below the Schtoartberg Olcicier (see above) and past the Schtoarzen-
berg Chalets (7798*). In 2 hrs. we reach the AUalin Glacier at a height of
9438', and ascend on its E. margin to the (V2 hr.) Aeussere Thurm (9947')
and (V4 hr.) the Innere Thurm (lOjeSC). We now turn to the W., to the
middle of the glacier, where the route divides. To the right, crossing in
the direction of the AUalinhorn (13,235'), is the route to the AUalin Pass
(see below), while we ascend steeply in a straight direction to the (2-3 hrs.)
Adler Pass^ between (1.) the Strahlhom (13,752'; from the pass in IV2 hr.)
and (r.) the Bimpfischhom (13,790'). The view of Monte Rosa and the Mat-
terbom is very striking, but the view to the N. and N.W. is shut out by
the Rimpfischhorn. Descent across the Adler Olaeier to the foot of the
Bimpftsdiwdnge, difficult in certain states of the snow ; we then skirt the
latter, crossing rock and moraine, and next traverse the Findelen Olacier
to the (3 hrs.) Fluh-Alp (BSTV), 2V2 hrs. from Zermatt (p. 311). — Hr. v.
Grote (p. 811), a Russian traveller, lost his life in 1859 by falling into a
crevasse of the Findelen Glacier.
The AUalin or Tftach Pass (11,713'; 10-12 hrs.; guide 30 fr.) is some-
times impracticable owing to the crevasses of the upper Allalin Glacier.
From the Innnere Thurm (see above) to the top 2 hrs.; descent over the Mel-
lichen Olacier, and along the K. base of a ridge separating the latter from
the Wand Olacier, to the Melliehen-Thal. Thence to Zermatt, p. 321.
320 Route 85, SAAS. From Vogogna
Below the Mattmarksee, from irMch the Saaser Visp issues, the
superb AUaUn Olacier, descends to the valley. The mondne contains
blocks of ^gabbio\ mingled with smaragdite, like those common
in W. Switzerland , but hitherto found nowhere attached to the soil
except on the Saasgrat ; whence geologists infer that the glaciers
of this region once extended to the Jura.
The path descends from the N. end of the lake over the d^ris
of a moraine , past the chapel of Im Lerch (6378') , to the stony
Eyenalp, looking back from which we enjoy a last view of the Alia-
lin Glacier in all its grandeur, and (I72 lir*) Zermeiggem (SBSC),
with its pleasant pastures , at the influx of tiie Furggbach into the
Visp. To the left, high above us, is the glittering snow of the AUa-
linhom (see below). By the (Vi hr.) church of AlmageU (5508';
where the path from the Antrona Pass descends on the right, p. 290)
a direct path to (2/4 hr.) Fee (see below) crosses the Visp to the left.
On the right the Almagellbach forms a grand waterfall.
1 hr. Baas im Gnind (5125'; *mL MofUe Mora, R., L., & A.
3, D. 4, pens. 6 fr.), the principal place in the valley.
A bridle-path leads from Saas to theW., crossing the Visp, and ascend-
ing through wood, past the chapel of St. Joseph^ to (3/4 hr.) Fee (5900'i
*'H6t.-Pens. du D&me^ suitable for some stay \ ffdt. LochmcUter, new), charmingly
situated amidst pastures, with a magnificent view of the/^'ee 6'Iacter, environed
by the Mittaghorny Egginerhom^ Allalinhom^ Alphvhel^ Tdtchkomj Dom, Siid-
Lenzspitze, and UlHchshom in a wide amphitheatre. To the E. rise the Weist-
mies with the Tiiftgrat^ the Laquinhom^ and the Fletsehhom. Between the two
arms of the Fee Glacier lies the Oletscheralp (7006'), a pasture once surrounded
by the glacier (interesting ; from Fee 1, to the Lange Fluh 1 hr. more). —
A direct path leads from Fee to Almagell (see above), so that the excursion
forms but a short digression from the route between Visp and Mattmark.
ExGuasioNS AND AsoBMTs. (Guides at Saas and Fee : Theodor^ Adolphy
and Joh. Peter Andenmatten^ Clem. Zurbriggen, Alois Inueng; Ambr.
JSupersax; J. M. j^lumenthal.) Pleasant walks on the pastures and in the
wood near Fee, and in the romantic gorge of the Feekinn. The OletscJur-
alp and Lange Fluh^ see above. The Plattje (ddSS"), by the Oaden-Alp^
2 hrs., and the Mellig (8812'), by the Hannig-Alp^ 2 hrs., are interesting and
not difficult (guide unnecessary). — The Triftalp (6314'), iVs br. above
Saas, on the E. side of the valley, affords an excellent survey of the Saas-
grat from Mte. Moro to the Balfrin. — Hittaghorn (10,328'j 4 hrs.^ guide
8 fr.), a splendid point of view, free from difficulty — Egginerhorn (11,080'-,
6 hrs.^ 12 fr.), also very interesting and not difficult. — Allalinhorn (13,235'^
6 hrs.; 30 fr.), trying, but without difficulty for experts. Above the (2 hrs.)
Lange Fluh we diverge to the left from the Alphubel route and ascend to
the (31/2 hrs.) saddle (12,606') and to the left to the (Vs hr.) summit (magni-
ficent view). — The Alphubel (13.802'), TAachhom (14,757'), Dom (14,940),
and Nadelhorn ( West'Lenzspitze , 14,220') may also be ascended from Fee
by experts (comp. p. 315). — Ulrichshorn (12,892'), from the Ried Pas*
(see below) 1 hr. (or from Fee 6 hrs.; guide 30 fr.), and Balfrin (Balen-
jirf^orn^ 12,474'), from Saas up the Biderglttscher and Balenfim 6 hrs., or
from the Ried Pass (p. 321) «/* hr. (guide 25 fr.), both without difficulty. —
StelUhorn (11,393'), by the Mattmark -Alp (7 hrs.; guide 12 fr.), see
p. 319. — Sonnighom, or Pizzo Bottarello (11,457*), by the Furgg Alp
(7 hrs.; guide 20 fr.), toilsome: magnificent view. — Latelhom (10,525*;
51/2-6 hrs.; guide 10 fr.), not difficult , repaying. Bridle-path through the
Furggthal to the (4 hrs.) Antrona Pass (p. 290) ; thence to the left to the
(IV2 hr.) summit; extensive view. — Weiumies (13,225'), up the Trift-
gr&tli and Trifl Glacier (8-10 hrs. ; guide 30 fr.), laborious, but without
to Viap, SAAS. 85. Route, 321
danger; view exceedingly grand. Better to ascend by the Almageller Alp
(7n6'; clean chalets ; spend night) to the ikeisehberffen Pats (p. 289), and
thence by the S. arete to the top; then descend across the Trift Glacier.
Fbom Saab to Zbbm att by the Weissthor., AdUr, or Allalin Pcus, p. 319.
The *AlphQbeljoch (12,474'; 12 hrs. to Zermatt; guide 30 fr.) is longer,
but less difficult and much finer than the passes just mentioned. From
Fee 1 hr. to the Oletscher-Alp (7006'); then a steep ascent to the (Ihr.)
Lange Fluh, a ridge of rock across which we climb. In 1 hr. we reach the
glacier, at a height of about 920(y, and ascend it rather rapidly, the very
wide crevasses necessitating many digressions. Farther on we ascend
gradually over snow to the (3 hrs.) pass, between (r.) the Alphnbel (13,803')
and (1.) the Allalinhom (13,235'), and obtain a splendid view of the Matter-
horn, Weisshom, etc. Descent over the Wand Glacier^ and then over rock,
moraine, and turf to the Ob$re and (3 hrs.) Untere Tdsch Alp (7270) in the
MelUchenthal. A direct but disagreeable forest-path leading hence to the
left, round the slope ^^escends to Zermatt in IVzhr. ; but it is better to
descend to T&sch (p. 309) and follow the road thence to (4U.) Zermatt.
Fbom Saas to Zbbmatt over the Mischabeljoch (12,650'; 13 hrs.; guide
86 fr.), between the Taschhom and Alphubel; over the Domjoch (14,062';
14 hrs. ; 40 fr.) , between the Taschhom and Dom ; over the Nadeljoch
(13,672*; 16 hrs.; 40 fr.), between the Dom and the Siid-Lenzspitze ; all very
difficult.
Fbom Saas to St. Xiklaus over the Bied Pass (12,050'; 12-13 hrs.;
guide 25 fr.), difficult. The route leads from Fee (p. 3!^) to the Alp San-
nig (7064') and ascends steeply, to the left of the Mellig^ over the Hochbalen
Glacier and the rocks of the Oemshom to the pass, between (r.) the £al-
frin (12,474') and 0) the UlHchshom (12,893'), both of which may be as-
cended from the pass (see above). Descent over the Oasienried Glacier to
the Schalpel Alp, and by Bollenen to St. Nillaus (p. 306).
Fbom Saas to the Simplon over the Laquinjoch, the Rossbodenjoch, the
Simeli Past, or the Gamserjoch and SirvoUenJoch, see p. 288. To Gondo over
the Ztoischbergen Pcut, p. 290. To Domo d'Ossola by Antrona, p. 290.
Below Saas is a defile between wUd masses of rock, in which
lies the chapel oi Si. Anton (5117'). Crossing the Visp we reach
the viUage of (8/4 hr.) Balen (50270, in a fertile valley at the E.
base of the Balfrin or Balenfirhhom (12,474'), and then (20 min.)
recross the stream. Farther on we pass a fine waterfall of the Schwei-
hachj descending from the Balenftm, and (8/4 hr.) return by the
Bodenhrucke to the left bank. The ravine presents a succession of
wild rocky scenes, enlivened with foaming waterfalls. Numerous
votive crosses, bearing a date only, have been erected here in
the pious hope of averting inundations of the Mattmarksee. At
the (10 min.) Huteck is a small auberge; 20 min., village of Zen'-
achmiden (3777'). Near Stalden the Saaset Visp falls into the Oorn-
er Visp (see below), which we cross by the Kinnbrucke, a bridge 160'
high. On the hill to the right is the small church of Sialdenried.
(1 hr.) Stalden, and thence to Visp, see p. 308. Travellers
from Stalden to Saas should observe that after crossing the Kinn-
briicke their path leads to the left beyond two chalets.
86. From Macngnaga to Zermatt round Monte Bosa.
Four Days : 1st. Over the Turlo Pass to Alagna. 2nd. Over the Col
d^Olen to Gressoney-la-Triniti. 3rd. Over the Beita Furca to Fiiry^ and over
the Col det Oimes Blanches to the TModule Pats. 4th. Ascent of the Breit-
horn, and descent to Zermatt. (Or: 1st day, to Riva', 2nd, over the Col
di Valdobbia to Grettoney-St-Jean; 3rd, over the Col de Cuniaz to Fiiry;
Babdkkbb, Switzerland. 12th Edition. 21
322 BouU 86. TURLO PASS. From Maeugnaga
4th, over the Thiodule Pas* to Zermatt.) Guide 8-10 fr. per day; for the
whole journey including the Breithom 50 fr. (The paths over the Col
di Valdobbia, Betta Furca and Col dea Gimes Blanches are also prac-
ticable for mules.) Less robust walkers who wish to avoid the Turlo Pass
may from Ponte Orande (p. 317) cross the Col di Baranea to Fobello and
VarallOy and reach Alaafna thence throu^ the Veil Beria in 2-3 days, an easy
route (comp. p. 42A).
Fbom Maouonaga to Alaona oybs thb Tttklo Pass, 8-9 hrs.,
fatiguing and not very interesting. Below Maeugnaga p/4 hr.) ^^
quit the bath to Boica (p. 317), cross the Arwa to the hamlet of
UtUa^ and ascend a wooded hiU to the (1 hr.) chalets of SpisaOy at
the entrance to the rock-strewn Val Quarcvaay which we enter to
the right. The slopes are wooded, and several waterfalls are pass-
ed on each side. The path, at first level, afterwards ascends a
rocky barrier, and (1 hr.) crosses the Bio di Quarazza to (Y2 hr.}
La Piana, the highest Alp (5978 '). Opposite, on the W. side of
the valley, the discharge of the Loceie Olacier forms a very fine
waterfall. Ascending more rapidly, the path describes a wide bend
round the desolate head of the valley, passes (3/4 hr.) a ruined hut,
and comes to an end. We next climb abrupt grass-slopes, and lastly
rocks and snow-slopes , to the (2^/2 hrs.) Turlo Pass (9090 Qi a
sharp ridge with a cross, between (r.) the Turlo (10,300^) and (1.)
the PigliamO'Hom (9469*). Descending over an expanse of snow
and poor stony pastures , we enjoy a fine view of the Sesia Glacier,
the Signal-Kuppe, and the Parrot-Spitze. We pass a little tarn, the
chalets of Alp Faller, and the Alp Lazza^ and descend into the Val
Sesia (2^/2-3 hrs. to the Sesia bridge). A good path now leads on the
right bank of the stream, past the deserted gold-mine of 8. Maria^ to
(3/4 hr.) Alagna(3953'; *H6t. Monte Rosa, moderate; H6t. Weiss-
horn, well spoken of; H$t, MortelUi), prettily situated, and frequen-
ted by Italians as a summer resort.
From Macuonaga to Alagma over the Gol delleLocoie (11,965*), 14-15
hrs., difficult; for proficients only, with good guides (40 fir.). A toUsome
and even hazardous climb of &-10 hrs., over the Pedriolo Alp (p. 318) and
the crevassed Maeugnaga Glacier, to the pass between Mte. delle Loceie and
the Signalkuppe. Descent over the Sena Qlader to the Pile Alp (see below).
EzGUBsiONS (Guides, Q. Barone, 0. and P, OuglielmifM, C. Jfartmali
and others.) Up the Val Sesia to the (2 hrs.) ''File Alp (5299'; superb
survey of the S.£. peaks of Monte Rosa) ; then to the ^/^ hr.) Alp Bore and
0/2 hr.) Alp Fondeeca. The Sesia fall, on the way to the Pile Alp, is not
worth visiting. (Over the Col delle Piscie to Gressoney, see below.) — The
Corno Bianco (10,945'-, 5-6 hrs.; 12 fr.), a difficult peak, with fine view of
Monte Rosa and the Graian Alps, is ascended either from Alagna or Gress-
oney. — Towards the E., two passes lead from Alagna to (7-8 hrs.) Bimasco
in the Val Piccola (p. 424) : the Colle di Maud (7447') to the 17. of the
Tagliaferro (Sn^l% and the Col delta Moanda (Bocchetta d"* Alagna) on its
S. side. — To Zermait over the Lysjoch, the Sesia-Joch and the Piodtjoch^
see p. 814. — From Alagna to Mollia and Varallo, see p. 424.
From Alagna to Gbbssonby-la-Tbinit^ ovbb tbx Gol d'Ol-
BN, 6Y2-7hrs. , attractive and easy (bridle-path; guide, 14 fr.,
unnecessary, but enquire for the beginning of the path). We as-
cend to the W. through meadows and wood, passing several groups
of houses, to tbe (2 hrs.) Alp LagliettOj cross the brook, and mount
to Zermait GRESSONEY. 86, Route. 323
pastures and afterwards over d^ris to the (2^2 hrs.) Col d'Olen
(9544'; '^Ouglielmina's Inn). View towards the N.W. very fine.
The *0em8steiny or Como del Camoscio, to the N., easily ascended
from the pass in 20 min., affords a striking view of Monte Rosa,
Mont Blanc, the Grand Gombin, the Graian Alps, etc. — We de-
scend from the Col hy a good path, with beautiful views of the
Parrot -Spitze, Lyskamm, and Lys Glacier, to the Oabiet-Alp with
its little lake, into the Vdi Oreasoney or Lysthdlj to (2 hrs.) St. Jac-
ques or 8. Qiaeomo (auberge), and (20 min.) Oressoney-la'TrinitS
(5322'; •Hdtel Thtfdy, R. 2, pens. 6 fr.). A cart-road descends the
picturesque valley by Perletoa and Chamonal to (372 M.) OreBsoney-
St. Jean (4495'; *H6t.'Pen8. Mont-Rose i *Delapierre')j the capital
of the valley, the upper part of which is German.
Fbok Alagna toObessonxt over the Ool delle Fuoie (10,374'), 9-iOhrs.,
rather fatiguing. To the PiU Alp, Q hrs., see above. Turning to the left
and passing the (>/< hr.) Bors Alp (auberge), the path ascends the steep
Val d'Embours (the EnAoutB Olaeier with a fine waterfall descending on
the right), skirting the N. slopes of the Como del Camoido (see above),
to the (4 hrsO pass, with the ruined Vincent-HUtte. (Hence to the Col
d^Olen, 1 hr.; to the Onifetti Club-hut over the Indren and Garstelet
Glaciers 2 hrs., see p. 314.) Descent by a good path to the left through
the Zavez Valley to the Oabiet-Alp and (3V2 hrs.) Oressoney -la- TriniU
(see above).
An easier route is across the Ool di Yaldobbia (83600, from Riva (2 M.
below Alagna, p. 424) to Gressoney-St. Jean (7 hrs. ; guide 14 fr.). A road
ascends the Val Vogna to (4 M.) Peccia, whence tlie bridle-path mounts
steeply to the right to the (2 hrs.) the 0»p{zio SoUiU on the col. The view
is limited, but we enjoy a charming survey of the Val Gressoney with
its rich pastures, pine -clad slopes, and waterfalls. Steep descent over
snow and stones, then through pine-forest, to (IVs hr.) Oressoney- St. Jean.
ExouasiONS from Greasoney (Guides, Zach. J)avid of Gressoney; for
short trips, young JUniyy from the Mte. Bosa Inn, and P. Squindobal of St.
Jean.) Beautiful walk from Trinity, up the valley , by S. Qiaeomo and 8.
Pietro, to the (2V2 hrs.) Oort Lys (6570'; beds), a chalet splendidly situ-
ated at the foot of the Lys Glacier (p. 314). — The I. A. 0. have built
three club-huts, for the use of travellers in this district. The Linty Hut
(10,300'; very small, 4 beds), 5 hrs. from the Hotel Th^dy, lies 1 hr.
from the top of the ffohe LicM (11,6340, and 4 hrs. from the top of the
Vincent Pyramide (13,920*). —From the Onifetti Hut (13,045'; enlarged in
1886 and well fitted up), at the W. side of the Oarstelet Glacier, 7 hrs.
from the H6tel Thddy and 3 hrs. from the Col d'Olen, the Vincent Pyra-
mide may be ascended in 2 hrs. , the ParrotMtitze (14,677' ; guide 30 fr.)
in 3 hrs., the Signaliuppe (14,964'; guide 35 fr.) in 4Vs hrs., and the
ZwMtein^tze (16,006'; guide 35 fr.) in 41/2 hrs. The last two ascents may
be combined in one tour. The Dufourspitze (15,217') was ascended on this
side for the flrstti me in Aug. 1886. — The Quintino Sella or Iiyskamm
Hut (14,905') on the rocks on the W. side of the Felih Oiaeier, 3 hrs.
lielow the Felikjoch (p. 314) and 7 hrs. from the Hdtel Thddy, is the star-
ting-point for the ascent of the Lyskamm (14,890'; 6 hrs.; 50 fr.) and of
the Castor (13,880'; 3V2 hrs.; 30 fr.). The descent from the latter may be
made to the Th^odule Pass (p. 809) and Breil (guide 40 fr.) or Zermatt (50 fr.).
From Gressoney to Zermctit over the Lysjoeh.Felikjoc\ Zwillingspass,
or Schtoartthor, see p. 314. Guide in each case 50 fr.
A bridle-path leads from Gressoney-St. Jean to Gaby. Issime (Inn), Fon-
tainemore, Lillianes, and (6 hrs.) Pont- St. Martin (p. 289). — To the W.
an easy bridle-path leads from St. Jean in 4 hrs. over the Col de Ranzola
(7182') to Brussone (4521') in the Challant Valley, and in 4 hrs. more over
the Col de Joux to Chdtillon (p. 268). — - Two very attractive ascents
21*
324 RouU 86. BETTA FURCA.
are those of the Pdnte de CombeUa (7936'), in 1 hr. from the Col de
Banzola, and of the Mont Neri {Bee de Frudi^e; lOjJSO'), rising father to
the 8., between the Gressoney and Challant valleys (7 hrs. from Gressoney,
gnide 12 fr.). Magnificent view.
Fbom Gbes80Ney-la-Tbinit^ to Fi]bry oteb thb Betta
FuBCA, 5 hrs.., pleasant and easy (without guide). At (20 min.) 8.
Oiacomo (see above) we diverge to the left, (V4 hr.) cross the Lys,
and mount rapidly past the houses of Betta to (1 hr.) the chapel
of St. Anna, where we have a fine view of the Lyskamm and Monte
Rosa. Then up a monotonous valley to the (1^/4 hr.) Betta
Forca (8639'), where we see the Graian Alps peeping ahove the
Yal d'Ayas, and the Grand Comhin to the right. We descend to
(1 hr.) the hamlet of RSsy (poor inn), turn to the right, and cross
the Verra to (}/2hT.') Fi^ry or Fihre (*Jnn)^ on the slope 20 min.
above 8. Oiaeomo, orerlooking the wooded Vol d'Ayaa.
From Gressoney-St. Jean to Fi^ry over the Col de Ouniaz iPinter-Joch,
8200^, 6 hrs., easy and repaying. From the pass (extensive view) experts may
ascend the '*0rauhaiq>t (10,702 ; toilsome) in 2 hrs., view strikingly grand.
A cart-road descends the picturesque Val d'Ayaa (called Yal Ohallaat in
its lower part), watered by the Evaufon^ to Champion^ (3 hrs.) Bttusone
(4521'^ Lion d'Or), and (3 hrs.) Verria, in the Dora Valley (p. 289).
Fbom Fi:feBY to Bbbil, ob to the TrnfioDtrLB Pass , ovbb the
Col DBS Cimbs Blanches. To Breil a rough mule-track (5 hrs.). It
ascends at first rapidly through wood, then traverses poor pastures
and a dreary valley, with the Aventina Qlacier on the right , to
the (2 hrs.) Aventina, the last Alp. Then a steep ascent, crossing
the Cortot, which flows out of the Grand Lac (where the path to
the Th^odule diverges to the right), and past the small Lacs de
Vent, to the (IV2 l^^O Col des CimeB Blanches (9912'), a desolate
rocky chaos. Here we may either turn to the right to (1^2 hr.)
Breil, or to the left to (2^/2 hrs.) Valtoumanche. The pass to Breil,
with a fine view of the Matterhorn and Dent d'H^rens, lies to the
W. of the Grand' Cemetta (10,597'; a splendid point of view, easily
reached from the pass in 3/^ hr.). Then a descent over snow, stones,
and pastures, past the little Laes de la Barma, to the chalets of
OouilUt and La Barma; and lastly to the left to Breil (p. 310;
from Breil to the pass 2^/^ hrs.). — The rather easier route (bridle-
path) to Yaltournanche, bearing to the left from the pass, descends,
with a fine view to the W., to the beautifully situated Alp Cleva
Creiisa, and to the left to (2V2 hrs.) Valtoumanche (p. 310).
Travellers bound for the Th^odule Pass and Zbbmatt need
not descend to Breil, but (with guide), on the right bank of the
Cortot, V2 hr. above the Aventina Alp, turn to the right, traverse
rocks and stony slopes, skirt the little Lac d'Ayas or Orand Lac,
and reach the pass (IY2 hr.; also called Col des Cimes Blanches),
a gap in the rocks enclosing the S. side of the Valtoumanche Gla-
cier. The crevassed glacier is then crossed, and lastly a steep snow-
slope ascended to the (11/2-2 hrs.) Theodule Pass (p. 309). Ascent
of the Breithorn, see p. 313; route to Zermatt, see p. 309.
VL S.E. SWITZEKLAND. THE GEI80NS.
87. From Rorschacli to Coire 3!27
Alvier 5 Gonzen, 928. — 81. Luziensteig \ Falknis, 328.
88. Eagatz and Pfafers 329
Excursions from Bagatz; Gusclienkopf^ Piz Alan; Va-
sannenkopf; Monte Luna; Graue Homer, 381, 33!2. —
From Ragatz to Reichenau over the Kunkels Pass, 833.
89. Ooire 333
Excursions from Coire ; Mittenbere : Schonegg ; Spontis-
kSpfe; Bad Passugg; Galanda, 335.
90. From Landquart to Schuls over the Fluela Pass.
Pratigau 335
Valzeina *, Seewis, 336. — Bad Fideris \ Bad Semeus *,
St. Antonien-Joclk ; Plasseggen-Joch, 337. — Excursions
from Klosters ; Vereina Pass ; Fless and Jdri-Fless Passes ;
Vemela Pass \ Silvretta Pass, 338. — Schwarzhorn, 339.
91. From Dayos to Coire by Lenz (Landwasser Route). . 340
Excursions from Davos, 341. — From Davos to Scanfs
over the Scaletta Pa^s ; to Bergiin over the Sertig Pass,
341. — Excursions from Wiesen, 342.
92. From Coire to Dayos through the Schanflggthal. Arosa 343
From Langwies to Kiiblia over the Duvannapass. Weiss-
fluh, 343. — Excursions from Arosa. Aroser Eothhom.
From Arosa to Davos over the Ueyenfeld Forca; to
Coire by Tsehiertschen ; to Parpan by the Urden-Fiirkli ;
to Alvaneu by the Furcletta, 844.
93. From Coire to Goschenen. Oberalp 345
From Reichenau to Danz by Versam and Kastris, 345.
'— The Safierthal; over the Lochliberg to Spliigen, and
over the Glas Pass to Thusis, 341. — Flimserstein ;
Vorab, 346. — Piz Mundaun, 347. — Lugnetz-Thal •, passes
to Hinterrhein and the Val Blegno, 348. — Brigels;
Val Frisal ; Val Puntaiglas ; the Somvixer Thai ; over
the Lavazjoch to Curaglia, 360. — Excursions from Dir
sentis \ Piz Muraun ; Sandalp Pass, 361. — Piz Pazzola ;
Val ITalps ; Kruzli Pass, 351. — Pass da Tiarmsj Lake
Toma; Badusj Piz Nurschallas; Val Cornera, 352.
94. From Disehtis to Biasca. Lukmanier 354
ValCristaIlina,363.— Piz Cristallina •, Piz Medel; Scopl;
Piz Bondadura, 354. — From Casaccia to Faido over the
Predelp Pass; Passo Golumbe, 364.
95. From Coire to Splugen. Via Mala 355
Schynstrasse from Thusis to Tiefenkasten, 356. — Lake of
Liisch, 367. — Piz Beverin ; Piz Curv6r, 358. — Piz Vi-
zan; Piz la Tschera. From Andeer to Stalla through
the Ferrera and Averser Valleys. Forcellina and Duana
Passes, 369. — From Caniciil to Pianazzo over the Ma-
desimo Pass. Guggemiill; Einshor^^ Piz Tambo, 360.
96. From Splugen to the Lake of Como 360
97. From Spliigen to Bellinzona. Bernardino 362
326 VI. THE ORISONS.
Scarce of the Hinter-Rhein, 363. — From Cama to GMa-
venna; Val Galanca, 364, 366.
98. From Coire to Samaden over the Albala Pass . . . 365
Piz St. Michel ; Tinzenhom ; Piz d'Aela. FromBergiin to
Madulein over the Fuorcla Piseha; Piz Kesch; Aela
Pass, 366.
99. From Coire to Samaden over the Julier 367
Statzerhom, 368. — Piz Gnrv^r; Fianell Pass; Tinzen-
thor Pass \ Errjoch ; Val da Faller; Piz Platta, etc., 369.
— From Stalla over the Septimer to Casaccia in the Val
Bregaglia; to Sils by Gravasalvas, 369, 370.
100. From CMavenna to Samaden. Val Bregaglia . . . 371
From Castasegna to Soglio; Piz Gallegione, 371. — Val
Bondasca; over the Forcella di Bondo to Masino.
Albigna Valley; Forcella di 8. Martino; Pizzo della
Duana, 372. — Casnile and Cacciabella Passes, 373.
101. The Upper Engadine , from the Maloja to Samaden 374
Lake Gavloccio; Ordlegna Fall; Fomo Glacier; Piz
Lunghino. From the Maloja over the Mnretto Pass to
Sondrio, 375. — Mnot Marmor^; Fexthal; Piz della
Margna; Piz Tremoggia; Piz Fora. To Malenco over
the Tremoggia-Pass or the Fuorcla Fex-Scerscen, 376.
— Fuorela Surlej ; Piz Jnlier, 377. — Excursions from
St. Moritz; Piz Nair; Val Suvretta, 379. — Excursions
from Samaden; Muottas Muraigl; Piz Ot; Piz Padella,
380.
102. Pontreaina and Environs 381
Schluchtpromenade ; Morteratsch and Roseg Glaciers,
382, 383. — Schafberg. Muoitas-Muraigl. Piz Languard,
383, 384. — Diavolezza Tour ; Piz Rosatsch ; Ghalchagn ;
Surlej ; Gorvatsch ; Morteratsch ; CapiitSGhin, 386. — Piz
Tschierva ; Sella ; Gliischaint t Palii ; Zup6 ; Crastaguzza ;
Bemina; Roseg; Seerscen, o86. — From Pontresina to
the Fex Valley over the Fuorcla da Fex, the Ghapiit-
schin Pass, or the Fuorcla Gliiscbaint, 386. — From
Pontresina to Malenco over the Sella Pass or the Bella-
vista Saddle; from Fellaria to the Bemina Hospice over
the Gambrena Pass ; to Poschiavo over the Goniinale or
the Ganeiano Pass, 386, 387.
103. From Samaden to Nauders. Lower Engadine . . . 387
MuntMiisella; Piz Uertsch; Piz Kesch. From Ponte to
Livigno over the Lavirum Pass. Piz Griatschouls ; Piz
Mezaun. From Scanfs to Livigno through the Val Gas-
ana, 388. — Munt della Baseglia; Piz d'Arpiglia; Piz
Vuna; Piz Sursura. From Zernetz over the Ofen Pass
to Miinster; over the Passo del Diavel to Livigno.
Piz Mezdi; Piz Linard, 389. — Guarda; Fettan; Val
Tasna;^ Futschol Pass, 390. — Excursions from Tarasp;
Schloss Tarasp; Avrona; Schwarz-See; Muotta Kaluns;
Piz Gliina; Piz Ghiampatsch; Piz Lischanna, 391, 392.
— From Schuls through the Scarl-Thal to S. Maria, 392.
— Piz Arina ; Fimber Pass, 393.
104. From Samaden over tlie Bemina to Tirano .... 394
Val del Fain; over the Fieno Pass to Livigno, 394. >—
Piz Gampascio; Piz Lagalb; Alp Griim; Sassal Maosone;
by Gavagiia to Poschiavo, 395. — Val Lagone ; over the
ST. MARGARETHEN. 87. Route. 327
Forcola to Livigno. From the Bernina through the Val
Viola to Bormlo, 995. — 8a8salbo, 396. — Gorna Stella;
Val Malenco; Monte della Disgrazia, 397. — Val
Masino; Pis Badile, 398.
105. From Tirano to Nauders over the Stelvio 398
From Bonnio to S. Caterina; Honte Ck>nfiiiale. Over
the Foscagno Pass to Livigno, 399. — Wormser Joeh ;
Piz Umbrail, 400. — Three Holy Springs; Suldenthal;
Ortler, 401. — From Prad to S. Maria in the Miinsterthal
by Taufers, 402.
106. From Nauders to Bregenz over the Arlberg .... 403
Liinersee; Scesaplana, 404. — The Montavon; over the
Vermunt Pass to Guarda, 406. — From Feldkirch to
Buchs. Gebhardsberg ; Pfander, 406.
87. From Rorschach to Coire.
Comp. MapSf pp. 26^ 60^ 332.
57 M. Railway in 3V4-4V2 hrs. (9fr. 75, 6fr. 85, 4fr. 90 c.; see In-
trod. X. as to excursion-tickets, etc.) There are two stations at Rorschach
(p. 48) , the chief of which C Restaur.) is on the quay in the town. The
other is Vs ^- to the £., where carriages are sometimes changed. The
first train from Rorschach corresponds with the first steamboat from Fried-
richshafen and Lindau; and at Coire with the diligences for the Spliigen
and the Bernardino.
Ronchae\ see p. 48. The train skirts the lake for a short way.
3 M. Staad. On the hill-side to the right rises the castle of Wart-
egg ; above it Wartenaee (p. 51), and the small chateau of Orei fen-
stein, Heiden (p. 51) is seen on the hill to the right. Farther on,
we have a glimpse of the Weinhurg (p. 49), situated on the vine-
clad Buchberg. The train traverses a delta, very fertile at places,
which has been formed by the deposits of the Rhine.
6 M. Bheuieck (1312'; *Po8i)j a village at the foot of vineyards.
Omnibuses ply in 12 min. from the station to (IV* M.) Thai (1344':
Ochs\ an industrial place with 3319 inhab., picturesquely situated at the
foot of the BveJiberg (to the Steineme Titeh^ 25 min., see p. 49). — Di-
ligence from Rheineck to J7«t<lei», via Wv^alden^ twice daily in 1 hr.
40 min., see p. 60; to Walzetihausen ^ twice daily in 1 hr. 5 min. see p. 49.
At (9 M.) St. Margarethen (^Linde ; Ochs) the line to Bregenz
(p. 406) diverges to the left (to the Meldegg^ 1 hr., see p. 49).
We now cross the Rhine, the boundary between Switzerland and
the Austrian Vorarlberg. The Rhine Valley, formerly called the
Upper Rheinga% and, like Ticino and Thurgau, governed down to
1798 by Swiss bailiffs, presents a variety of grand and picturesque
scenery. The train skirts the hill, traverses orchards and fields of
maize, and from Heldsberg to Monstein passes between the river and
abrupt rocks. Stations Au (Schiff), Heerbrugg^ Rebstein.
16 M. Altstadten (1542'; pop. 7810; ♦Drci Konige, moderate;
Krone; Robe; Zum Splugen^ at the station). Through a gorge to
the right is seen the Sentis (p. 54); in the background to the S.
rises the snow-clad Scesaplana, and adjoining it the Falknia (p. 329).
328 Route 87. SARGANS.
Boads lead hence over the Ruppen (9064'; Landmark Inn) to (8 If.)
Trogeny and over the Stost (3770) to (6 U.) Qait (p. 52) ; and a pleasant
path in 3 hrs. by the Chap4l of St. Anthony to Heid^n (p. 51).
19^2 M. OherrUt (Sonne). On the £. slope of a wooded rock
to the right, is the ruined tower of the castle of Blatten. The high-
road passes to the W. of the castle through the Hirschensprung defile,
above which tower the Eamor and Hohe Easten (p. 53).
22V2 M. Buthi (Zum Bahnhof). A lofty wooded rock above the
little town of 8ennwald (Post or ILrone), is called the Kanzel. 27 M.
Scdetz-SennwcUd (♦Restaur, by the station).
The Hohe fasten 0903'^ 4V2hrs.; withont guide), see p. 63. — To thjs
Weissbad (6 hrs.), a pleasant walk, by Sax and the Scueer Lueke (54d(y),
passing the FShlen and S&mtis lakes (comp. p. 56).
29 M. Haag-Oams, where the line crosses the Toggenburg and
Feldklich road (p. 58). Above (31 M.) Bnehs (Zum Arlberg and
Zum Bahnhof J at the station ; *8onne) rises the well-preserved cha-
teau of Werdehbergy once the seat of the counts of that name.
Railway to Feldkirehy see p. 406. — On a height, on the opposite
bank of the Rhine, lies Vaduz (1525'; *Linde; Engel; Lowe), with the
ohiteau of Liechtenstein on a lofty rock, the capital of the principality
of Liechtenstein, at the foot of the Drei Schweatem (6878').
Beyond (34^/2 M.) Sevelen (*Tranbe) rises the pinnacled old cha-
teau of Wartau. Near (39 M.) Trubbach the rocks of the SchoUbtrg,
which approach the Rhine, have been blasted to make way for the
road and the railway. On a height opposite , near Baiters , is the
extensive ruined castle of Outtenberg, where the ascent of the
Luziensteig begins (see below).
The Alvier (TJ5&)y an admirable point, ascended from Bnchs, Sevelen,
or Triibbach in 5-6 Vs hrs., see p. 44. The route from Triibbach is by Att-
mooty OretscTnnt. and past the ruin of Wartau^ to ('/« hr.) Oberschan, (3 hrs.)
Pal/ries, and (2 hrs.) the top; descent 3 hrs. — The Oonzen (6014'),
from Trubbach in 4Vs hrs., also easy and interesting.
42 M. SargauB (^H6tel Thoma, at the station), the junction of
the Wesen (Glarus) and Zurich line (p. 44). Carriages sometimes
changed here. The scenery becomes grander and more picturesque;
to the N.W. appears the long serrated chain of the Curfirsien (p. 42),
to the £. the grey pyramid of the FaUenia. To the right, near VUten,
is the Untere Sarfallj a fine waterfall after rain.
45 M. Bagatz, see p. 329. To the right is the ruin of Freuden-
berg (p. 330). Below the influx of the Tamina the train crosses the
Rhine by a wooden bridge.
46 M. Malenfeld (1725'; pop. 1208; Boasli; Sonne; Zum Folic
nis) is an old and thriving little town. The towei (restaurant; fine
view from the top) is said to have been erected in the 4th cent, by
the Roman Emp. Oonstantius. The old castle of the Counts of Tog-
genburg was the seat of the bailiffs of the Grisons down to 1795.
On the hill to the right are the ruin and pension of Wartenstein
and the abbey of Pfdfert fp. 331).
The St. Luziensteis; (2230' \ Inn, good wine), a fortified defile between
the Fl&scherberg (9132^) and the Falknis^ through which the road to Vadus
and Feldkirch leads, is 2 M. from Maienfeld. Fine view from the highest
BAGATZ. 88, BouU, 329
block-house^ on the top of the Flcischerberg, IV4 hr. farther W., above the
fortiflcation. — The Falknis (8420'), ascended from the Luziensteig, through
the Oleektobel and by the SaHna Alp or Fl&tcheralp (6 hrs. ^ with guide),
is fatiguing but interesting. (Better from Maienfeld by JenirUy the Vordere
Alp and JSarina Alp, and through the FlUseherthal.)
On the vine-clad slopes to the left, at the foot of the Vilan
(p. 336) lie the villages of Jenins (above it the ruins of Wyneck
and Aspermont) and MaUms (2047'; Kione; Kreuz), with the cha-
teau of Bodmer, once the residence of the poet Gaudenz de Salis-
Seewis (d. 1834). Kompleter, the best wine in the valley, is grown
here. The train crosses the Landquart, near its influx into the
Rhine. 491/2 M. Landqnart (1732'; H6t. Landquart, near the
station and the post-offlce; *Hot Ruedi, 5 min. from the station,
moderate), where the Pratigau route diverges (see p. 336). To
the W., in the background, rise the barren Oraue Homer (p. 332).
The district between Maienfeld and Coire, with its numerous
castles, is remarkable for its fertility. Its central point is (52 M.)
Zizers (1854' ; Krone), an ancient little borough. To the left, at
the foot of the hills, are Molinara, a summer-residence of the Bishop
of Coire, and the village of Trimmis. On the right tower the bare
peaks of the Calcmda (9213') ; on the wooded slopes at its base are
the ruined castles of Liechtensteiny Krottensteirhy and Haldenatein, at
the foot of which last lies the village of the same name, with a well-
preserved walled chateau.
57 M. Coire, see p. 333.
88. Eagatz and Pfafers.
Comp. Plan and Map, p. 333.
Hotels (most of them open during the season only). ^Qubllrnhop (PI. a),
E., L., &A. 6-6, B. V«5 I>- 4-5, pens. 9-13 fr.j *Hop Ragatz (PI. b), R.;
L., (fe A. 3Vr5, B. 11/2, D. 4, 8. 3, pens. 7-13 fr.; *H6tki. Tamina (PI. c),
R., L., & A. 3V«-4, D. 31/2, pens. 7-10 fr.^ *Schweizkrhof (PI. d), R. 2^2-3^/%^
D. 31/2-5 fr. ; *Hot.-Pens. Lattmann (PI. i), pens. 7 fr., good cuisine ; *Kkonk
(PI. e), R., L., <fe A. 3, B. 1, D. 3 fr. ; *H6t.-Pehs. Fkohlich (PI. h) 5 *Fbei-
KCK (PI. g) ; ^HdT.-PBNS. CalANDA (PI, 0? *H6t. NATIONAL (PL 1)', •PoST
moderate ; Bab (PI. k), Ochsb, and Lowb, unpretending. — Near the sta-
tion, '*RosBNGABTBM , with three d^pendances, R. & A. 2V2) pens. 6-7 fr.
(open in winter also). — ^Pjens. Wbiss, on the road to the Freudenbei^ ;
^Pbns Hoke-Villa ; ""Pbhs. Wa&tbmstbin (p. 331). — Keatauranta. Kur~
saal, see below; BJieinvilla, Bahnhof-Str. ; Ntusbatim, Churer-Str.; LSwe,
and Kreuz, with gardens. — *Ca/4 Felsenkeller, 'A M. from the town, on
the way to the Freudenberg (p. 330 ). Buel, *U V- irom the village, near
the ruin of Freudenberg, with view. — Post Office (PI. 6), near the Dorf-
bad. — Telegraph Office (PI. 7), opposite the Krone.
Omnibus from the station to the village of Ragatz 75 c., trunk 25 c. ; to
Wartenstein IVz (back 1) fr. — One-horse carr. from Ragatz to Pfafers and
back, with halt of 2 hrs., for 1-2 pers. 7, 3-4pers. 10 fr., and fee.
Baths. Properties of the water, see p. 330. The MUhlbad (PI. 4), Ifeu-
bad (PI. 2), and Helenenbad (PI. 3) are near the Kurhaus; the Dor/bad
(PI. 5), with TrinkhaUe. in the Eisenbahn-Strasse, between the Schweizer^
hof and the Tamina Hotel. The Neubad contains a large swimming-bath
(84*" Fahr. : 2 fr. in the morning, 1 fr. in the afternoon ; ladies 9V2-llV«
a.m. and 4-6 p.m.) and single baths (2-2V2 fr.). Tickets at the office, to
the left of the Hof Ragatz.
330 BofOeSS. RAGATZ.
YiBitora' Tax , in June and Sept. 2, in July and Ang. 8 fr. per 'vreek
for each person .
Baf^ts (1702'; pop. 1996), prettily situated on the Impetuous
Tamlnay which falls into the Rhine lower down, is a famous
watering-place and one of the most frequented places in Switzerland
(50,000 visitors annually, passing travellers included). The yillage
first owed its Importance to the construction of the Pfafers road (see
below) and of the conduit, 2^2 M. long, conveying the mineral
water thence to Hof Ragatz in lo38-40, and the handsome buildings
recently erected give it almost the appearance of a town.
The chief rallying-points are the QueUenhof and the Hof Ragatz
(formerly a mansion of the Abbots of Pfafers). In the Kurgarten,
at the back of the Quellenhof, a band plays in the morning, noon,
and evening. The open colonnade on the £. side affords a pleasing
survey of the Rhine Valley. The new Baths and Trlnkhalie are on
the S.W. side. Beyond them are pleasure-grounds with a whey-
cure establishment, etc.
In the Cemetery J by the E. wall, is the monument of the philo-
sopher ScheUing (d. at Ragatz in 1854), 20' high, with his bust. By
the last houses (1 M.) on the road from the cemetery to Sargans, a
path ascends to the left through vineyards to (10 min.) the ruined
castle of Freudenberg, with a fine view of theRheinthal. We return
by a road on the hill-side, between houses and gardens.
*Bad Ff&ferSy 530' above Ragatz , and 2^/2 M, distant, is one
of the most curious spots in Switzerland. It lies in the narrow
gorge of the Tamina^ a glacier-torrent, on the brink of which the
good but narrow road (walking recommended) gradually ascends,
flanked by sombre limestone cliffs, 500 to 800' high. A little be-
fore the (I74 M.) SchwattenfaU Restaurant a finger-post indicates
a path along the Tamina to Valurrank and (1^2 ^0 Wartenstein
(see below). Another finger-post 1/2 M. farther, a few paces beyond
which the road passes through a rocky gateway , indicates a path
to (Y2 li^O *1^6 village of Pfafers. Both these routes are miry in
wet weathers.
The monastic - looking Bath House, built in 1704, lies wedged
between precipices 600' high, and enjoys sunshine in the height of
summer from 10 till 4 o'clock only. Accommodation good, but plain
(R., L., & A. 2-3 fr.). Very pleasant baths (1 fr. ; temp. 970?',
at Ragatz 950), chiefly frequented by the less wealthy classes, and
by invalids who prefer taking the waters near their source.
The abundant hot springs (97-100^), dear as crystal, and free
from taste and smell, are impregnated with carbonate of lime, chlor-
ide of sodium , and magnesia, resembling those of Gastein and
Wildbad in their composition. They rise about ^U M. above the
bath-house In the narrow and gloomy ♦Gorge (30-50' wide) of the
wild Tamina. Tickets for the gorge and the springs (1 fr. each;
umbrellas advisable) are sold in the principal corridor of the bath-
BH
PFAFERS. 88. RouU. 331
house. The wooden pathway to the springs, resting on the rock or
on masonry, 30-40' above the torrent, leads between overhanging
walls of rock, 200-250' high, on the right bank of the Tamina, to
the vaulted chamber (98' long) of the Nbw Spbinq (to the left of
the old), dating from '2nd Oct., 1860'. The air in this vault is like
that of a hot vapour-bath, but there is little to see. This curious
ravine surpasses the rival Gorge of Trient (p. 223), the rounded
granite rocks of which are inferior in boldness to the nummulite of
Pfafers. From the Ragatz station to the springs and back, 3 hrs. on
foot, or 2 hrs. by carriage (p. 330).
FsoM THE Baths to the Village of Pfafbbs (IV4 lir>)> The path
ascends in windings on the left bank of the Tamina; after V4 br., by a
finger-post, where the path to the right leads to Valens (see below;
10 min. from the Bad is the ^Calandaschau'*), we descend to the left and
(5 min) cross the Tamina by a natural bridge, called the *^Beschlius\ 32S'
perpendicularly above the springs. We now ascend the path on the
right bank, cut in steps, and slippery in rainy weather, to a (20 min.)
meadow (auberge), where it divides: that to the right leading to Yattis
(see below): that to the left to the village of Pfafers. By the latter
we reach (10 min.) the Pfafers and Yattis road, which we may again
quit (10 min.) by a path to the right, leading us back to the road in
74 hr., opposite the nrst house of the village.
The Village of Pfafers (2696'; AdUr; Lowe), on a hiU, 2 M.
to the S. of Ragatz, is reached by a beautiful and shady road (with
short-cuts). On this road (2 M.) is the *Pens. Wartenatein (2463';
good restaur.; pens. 6-7 fr.; omnibus from the station 1Y2> l>ack
1 fr. ; heavy luggage extra), affording a splendid view of the Rhine
Valley as far as the Curflrsten to the N.W. (p. 42). Below, to
the S., are the ruin of Wartenstein and the Chapel of 8t, George
(2463). The once rich and powerful Benedictine Abbey of Pfafers
was converted into a lunatic asylum (8t, Pirminaberg) in 1838. The
(V4hr.) Tabor (2766'), a rocky hill to the N.E. of the abbey, also
affords a fine view.
ExcuRfliONB FKOM Bagatz. (Guldes : Fah, of Ragatz \ Fortun. Enderlin,
of Maienfeld; D. and /. Buppy of Yalens •, Wilh. and J>av. KohUr, of Yattis).
Buin of Freudenberg, see above. On the Sargans road, farther on, is the
Restaur. Buel^ with a fine view. — The Gnsohenkopf (2463'), a wooded hill
to the W. of Bagatz, on the right of the entrance to the Tamina Gtorge,
is skirted by pleasant walks, on the S. side, passing the Bild (a chapel),
and on the W. side (diverging to the left from the road to Freudenberg,
before the ^Felsenkeller^), leading in 40 min. to the top. Fine view of
Bagatz, the Bheinthal, the Appenzell and Pratigau Mts., the Graue Horner,
and the Calanda. — To the pension of Wartenstein (40 min.), see above.
— To Maienfeld (IVs M. ; by the road crossing the new Rhine-bridge ;
or by a path crossing the railway-bridge), see p. S28 ; St. Luziensteig (direct
path in 1 hr. , road via Maienfeld 4 M.), see p. 329. — The Pratigau
iSeewis, Valzeina, etc.), see R. 90. — Coire, Via Mala^ see pp. 333, 367.
*Fis Alan (4880'; 8 hrs.; guide from St. Margarethen advisable for
novices), a splendid point of view. From (1 hr.) Dorf Pfafers through
wood to the pastures of 8t. Margarethen (4160') 1 hr., end of the village
Vs hr., then to the left, and lastly by steps in the rock to the (V2 hr.) top.
To Valens (3018'; Zum Frohsinn) from Bad Pfafers, V2 kr. (to the right
at the finger-post mentioned above). On leaving the wood, the point of view
called the CkAandsehau affords a striking view of the Tamina Yalley, with
the Calanda in the back-ground to the left, and the Monte Luna and the
^
332 R(wU88, PFiFERS.
Oraue H5mer to the ri^t. Below tbe church a path crossea the deep
JfUhletobel to (Vz hr.) Vasdn., amid sunny pastures, and the O/4 hr.) road
to Vattis (see below). — Ascent of the ^Vaiannenkopf (SSTeO, from Valens,
easy (3 hn. ; with guide). Across pastares to the Aip Lata (G067') 3 hra.;
thence to the right to the top Vs hr. (extensive view ; or still finer from
the Schldstlikopf, 7313', 'A hr. farther). Rich flora. — ^Konte luna (7927';
4 hrs., from Valens by Vason and the Alp Vindels), also easy and interest-
ing. — The ascent of Pie Sol (9340'), the highest of the Ohmue H6mer,
is grand and interesting, but trying (5V»-6 hrs. from Valens).
Fbox Raoatz to Rkichenau oveh the Kdnkels Pass (IS hrs.). To
10 If .) VHUis a road (two-horse carr. from Ragatz there and back in
V4 hrs., 25 fr., a pleasant aftemoon'^s trip); thence to Reichenau a mule-
track. "The road leads from the village of Pfafers on the right side of
the deep Tamina Valley, of which picturesque glimpses are obtained.
After 1/2 hr. the path to the Baths of Pfafers diverges to the right (see
above); farther on, the road passes the hamlets of Ragol (opposite Valens)
and Vadura (opposite Vasdn^ at the foot of Mte. Luna, see above), and skirts
ihe precipitous slopes of the CeUanda. The valley expands near (10 H.)
Y&ttis (3107'; *Il6t. Tamina^ moderate; Oemsli; Zur Lercfie; Pens. Zimmer-
mann- Kohler)y a sequestered village near the mouth of the Kalfeuser Thai
(p. 66), from which the Tamina issues. The road ends here. The bridle-
path quits the Tamina, crosses the Odrbs three times, and ascends, gener-
ally on the E. side of the valley. The chalets of the upper valley are col-
lectively called Kttnkels. On reaching the (2 hrs.) Kunkels or Toppa Paas
(4433'), we turn to the left of the conduit and enter the defile of La
Foppa. (About 5 min. to the right of the path a superb view of the
Rhine Valley may be obtained.) Then a steep and stony descent to Tamins
and (ll^ hr.) Reichenau (p. 845).
THE GRIS0N8.
The region which now forms the Oanton of the GxiMma (QraubUnden)
was inhabited at the beginning of the Christian era by the Rheetians,
who were subjugated by the Romans in A. D. 15. After the fall of the
Roman Empire, Rheetia came into the possession of the Ostrogoths and
afterwards into that of the Franks. In the middle ages the country be-
came the residence of many noble families, including the Bishops of Coire,
the Abbots of Disentis and Pfafers, the Counts of Montfort, Werdenberg,
and Hatsch, and the Barons of Vatz, Rhaziins, Belmont, and Aspermont,
whose ruined castles are still seen on the heights. The inhabitants were
grievously oppressed by these magnates, and banded together on several
occasions they met and entered into associations with a view to obtain
redress. Thus in 1396 they formed the ^League of the House of Ood" (Lia
da Ca Dh, or Casa Z>i), at the head of which was the church of Coire ;
in 1424 the '■Upper' or ''Qrav League' (Lia OriitKa); and between 1426 and
1436 the ^'League of the Ten Juriedietions" (Lia deltas desch dretturas).
These coalitions gave rise in 1471 to the establishment of the ^Three Per-
petual Leagues of BhcBtitC. In 1512 the confederates conquered the Val-
tcllina, which they governed by means of bailiffs down to 1797. By the
year 1521 more than half the population had embraced the Reformation,
but a powerful minority remained steadfast adherents to the Roman Catho-
lic faith. The dissensions of these two parties gave rise to the invasion
of their country during the Thirty Years' War by Austro-Spanish and
French armies, but owing to the indomitable enei^ of Oeorge Jenatseh
the land at length succeeded in recovering its independence. From the
15th cent, onwards the ^Gray Confederates' were on friendly terms or in
alliance with the Swiss, and in 1803 their territory was incorporated with
Switzerland as the 15th Canton.
Down to 184S the canton was divided into 26 small and almost entirely
independent republics, called Hoch-Oeriehte (jurisdictions), but these were
COIRE. 89. Route. 333
abolished by the new constitution. It is now the lareestf though not the
most populous canton in Switzerland (2806 sq. M.; 94,991 inhab.), embracing
more than one-sixth of the area of the whole country ; and it is remarkable
for the variety of its scenery, climate, productions, and languages, as
well as for its national peculiarities and political constitution. The country
consists of an immense network of mountains, furrowed by about 150 val-
leys, and culminating in numerous peaks crowned with eternal snow.
Barren rocks are surrounded by luxuriant cultivation \ wild deseiis, where
winter reigns during three-fourths of the year, lie amid forests of chest-
nuts, under the deep blue sky of Italy.
Not less varied are the inhabitants themselves in origin, language,
religion^ and customs. The population includes 58,168 Protestants, and
41,711 Roman Catholics, of whom 37,794 are of Romanic and 43,064 of
Teutonie race. Of the curious Romanic language there are two distinct
dialects: the Ladin of the Engadine, the Albu^i, and Munster valleys,
and the JU»nanc9 of the valleys of Disentis and Hans, the Oberhalbstein,
Schams, etc. The following epitaphs from Pontresina may be given aa
specimens of the language: '•Quia reposan not ehers genitors^ (here repose
our dear parents). *Na$cMeu Us 36 Awost 1831^ mort ils 10 Sefmer 1850*
(he was born on 26th Aug. 1831 and died on 10th Jan. 1850). ^Alla memoria
da nossa virtuosa td ameda mamma, morta a ZUrieh Us 15 Almost 1871
%€W etad d^ana 63 ed seguond ma giavUsch sepulida quia il di 19 seguaind,
titua gia reposaiva $ia bun 6d/»* (to the memory of our virtuous and beloved
mother, who died at Zurich on 15th Aug. 1871, at the age of 63, and
according to her wish was buried here on the following 19th day, where
already her good father reposed). This dialect is spoken generally amongst
the people, but German is gaining ground, and is taught in the schools
so successfully that the younger natives speak it better than the inhabi-
tants of German Switzerland. In the time of the Hohenstaufen the whole
country was Romanic. Several small Romanic newspapers appear at Goire,
Dlsentis, etc.
89. Coire.
Germ. Chnr, Ital. Coira, Roman. Caera.
Hotels. *Stbikbock (PI. a; G, 4), on the Clhurwaldcn road, outside the
town, R., L., 4k A. 4-6, D. 4-5, B. IVs fr. \ *Lukmanisr (PI. b; D, 2), near the
station, opposite the post-offlce, R.,L., 4I( A. 4, D.3V3-4, omn. ^Uir. — Second-
class: *WEi88E8 KRBnz(Pl.c; D,2)5 *STKR»(Pl.d5 E, 1), R, A A. 2V2-3, D.
3fr. ; *RoTBSB Lows (PI. e; D,3); Sonnb^ Dbei Konigr. — Pension Rhatia.
Xfestanrants. *' Chalet (Pl. C, 2) opposite the post-offlce, with garden;
Calanda(P\.$\ D,2); Bhdtia; "Bali. £esto«f.— Beer at the Casino, adjoining
the Rothe Lowe*, LSwenhofy near the market; Vazeroler Halle, etc.
Oarriages let by /. C. Kuoni, Bachmann.^ and others. Fixed official
tariff. — Baths (swimming and other) at Willy^e, on the left bank of the
Plessur (PI. E,4) (i/s fr.).
Wines. Valteliina (red, see p. 398), abundant and not dear. Kom-
pleter^ grown near Malans (p. 329) in the valley of the Rhine, near the
lower Zollbrttcke, good but expensive. The ^XondwetV, or ordinary wine
of the country, of which the best is the Merrsehci/tlery is a good red wine,
similar to Valteliina. Good wine at the Hofkellery to the left in the Epis-
copal Court (also an inn), and at the auberges ^Zu den Rebleuteii*, by the
Ifartinskirche, and ^Zwn SUssen WinkeF. — Cigars at Hits'e, Post-Str.
Coire (1936'; pop. 8889; 2/3 Prot.), the capital of the Canton of
the QrlsoDs , the Curia Rhaetorum of the Romans , and since the
4th cent, the seat of a Bishop, is picturesquely situated on the banks
of the Pteasur^ which falls into the Rhine 1^2 ^* ^'om the town.
Most of the Rom. Oath, inhabitants dwell in the BiaekbfUche Hof,
or ^Episcopal CourV (PI. E, F, 8), the upper and most interesting
334 RouU89. GOIRE. Cathedral.
qnarter of the town, snrroiinded with walls. Here is the episcopal
^Cathedral of St. Luciiu (PI. F, 3) part of which dates from the
8th cent, (sacristan 1 fr.; No. 15, to the right of the archway).
The Tery ancient Portal of thx Evtbakcx Coubt ia borne by colonuifl
resting on lions; above is another lion, and on the colnmns are Aposttes.
The PoBTAi. OF THB Gathbobal, with its projecting slender columns irith
graceful capitiJs, is Bomanesqne.
The Ihtbbiob is interesting owing to the snccession of different styles
it presents. The aisles are only about half the height of the nave. The
pillars of the latter, strengthened by semi-columns , have bases adorned
as was usual in the i2th cent, with leaves at the comers, uid heads of
animals, and have curious capitals of Corinthian tendency. The vaulting
is pointed. Sodth Aislb : *Sarcophagus of Bithop Ortlieb d* Brandts (d.
1494). Altar-piece, a Madonna by Stummy a pupil of Bubens. Tombstone of
Count de Buol- Sehauenstein (d. 1797), and opposite, that of his son (d. 1833).
South Tbahsspt. Ist Altar: above it, Herodiasby Oranaeh; in the centre
a Kadonna of Rubens' School; the side -pictures by the elder Holbein and
his school. Reliquary of the 10th century. 2nd Altar: handsome ornamen-
tation. Reliquary in the form of a Gofliic church; in the arches Ghriat
and the Apostles. Altar-piece, a Crucifixion and Saints, a work of the
Oerman School of the ISth century. Choib: *High-altar gilded and richly
carved by Jacob Russ (1491). Stalls and a *Tabemacle of 1484 (the latter
attributed to Adam Krafft). The Cbtpt is a low chamber with flat ceiling
of the 5th century. Kobth Aislb: 1st Altar, St. Aloysius by A. KauJ^-
mann. Over the central altar, *Ghri8t bearing the Cross, by IHirer. In
the Sacristy is the rich ^Tbbabubt: reliquaries, crucifixes, candelabra,
vestments, etc. ; reliquaries in embossed copper (8th cent.) ; embroidered
stuffs of the Saracenic period; fragments of silk dating from the time of
Justinian; Christ and Peter on the sea; a miniature on lapis-lasuli by C.
Bold. The glass cabinets contain charters granted by Charlemagne, Loois
le D^bonnaire, Lothaire, etc.
Adjoining the church is the venerable Episcopal Palace (Pi. 2;
E, F, 3). The Chapely one of the earliest of Christian edifices, lies
to the N., within the walls of the ancient Roman tower of MarBoel
CMa/rs in ocuUs'Jj which is connected with the palace. This tower
and another named Spinoel (^Spina in oculis^ containing the 'Hof-
keller*, see above ; fine view from the windows) form the N. angles
of the 'Hof . An ancient tower to the N.W., with the adjacent wall,
appear also to be Roman. The names of these towers imply that the
Rhffitians were kept in subjection by the threats of their conquerors.
In the Platz in front of the cathedral rises the JSofbrunneny with
figures of saints, erected in 1860. Behind the cathedral are the
Monastery of 8t. Lucius^ now a seminary for priests, and the Can^
tonal School (PI. F, 3 ; for both creeds).
The town itself contains few objects of interest. The Protestant
Church of 8t. Martin (PI. 5 ; D, 3J, the Oovemment Buildings (Pi. 4;
E, 2), and the Hospital (PI. A, 4) founded by the Capuchin Father
Theodosius (d. 1866) are the chief buildings. Opposite the Martins-
kirche , to the left of the approach to the cathedral court , is the
Rhaetian Museum (Pi. E, 3; Sun. 10-12, gratis; at other times
1 fr.), containing antiquities , old mural paintings from the epis-
copal palace (Death-dance after Holbein) , the cantonal library, a
natural history collection, etc. — Three windows in the hall of the
Bathhaus (PI. 3 ; P, 3) contain stained gUs& of the 16th cent. — The
Environs. GOIBE. 89. Route. 335
old cemetery, now the Stadtgarten (PI. 0, 3), In the Graben-Strasse,
opposite the Cantonal Bank, contains numerous grave-stones of the
17th cent., in good preservation, and also a monument to the poet
Oaudem von Salts-Stewis (d. 1834; p. 336), by Kayser of Zurich.
Ekvteons. Fine view of the town and the Bheinthal from the Roien^
h&gel (Restaur.) on the Julier road, 10 min. from the Plessur bridge, with
pleasant grounds. The 'Haldenanlagen'' on the Mittenherg^ above the
SeTumJlffg-Strcuse (p. 343) also afford a good view. At the second bend of
this road towards the N. there are three finger-posts (the second path the
beat) indicatii^; the ascent through wood to the (2 hrs.) Xittenberg
(36!^'), which commands the whole Rhine Valley as far as Uanz. A
similar, though less extensive view is obtained from the St. Lucius-
tapette, situated under an overhanging rock in the middle of the wood
(*/« hr. from. C!oire; veached by following the Schanflgg road to within
5 min. of the rocky deft mentioned at p. o44, tunnel, and ascending to the
left). — About 1 H. to the K.E. of the town (shadeless road through
vineyards) is the Lilrlebad (three inns, Voneschen^s the best).
On the PizoM, a wooded hill to the 8. of Goire, on the E. side of which
the Churwalden road ascends (p. 367), a pleasant forest-path leads to the
(IV2 hr.) Sch&negg. It diverges by the Rosenhugel to the W. from the
first bend in the road, leading to a finger-post ^nach Schonegg\ Fine view
x>f the Vorderrhein Valley. Another pleasant path diverges from the same
road 2 M. from Coire (finger-post), to the right, turning back, to the
(*/4 M.) KAnzli (about 3936'), a charming point of view. Thence to the
Maieruasse and tiie (2V2 hrs.) Bpontiskftpfe (6360')) spurs of the ridge
which rans 8.W. from Coire towards the Schyn, parallel with the Dom-
leschg. View of the Schanfigg-Thal as far as Peist, and of the Vorder-
Rheinthal. The *8tUtzerhom (84580, the highest peak of this range,
farther to the S., seep. 368.
Bad Paasngg (272(r ; auberge) , with a chalvbeate spring containing
soda and carbonic acid , lies 3 H. from Coire in the wild valley of the
Sabiota (p. 367). A path leads to it in IV4 hr. from the Todtengut on the
Sand. Or follow the Churwalden road to the end of the fourth great bend,
turn to the left to the rustic sanatorium of (1 hr.) Milhlermn and ascend
the gorge to Passugg. Thence a foot-path to (l'/4 hr.) Churwalden (p. 367),
at first by steps; then to the right where the path divides, following
the course of the Rabiosa \ lastly crossing it and turning to tiie left.
The Oalanda (92130 may be ascended from ffalderutein^ 3 M. to the
y. of Coire , in 7 hrs. (fatiguing). Quarters for the night at the highest
chalets, 21/2 hrs. from the top. Magnificent view \ more striking when the
ascent is made from Vattis (p. 332; 7-8 hrs.; more fatiguing). — The
following excursion of 272-3 days is recommended: in the afternoon by
Malix to Parpan 3 hrs. ; next morning ascend the Statzerhorn in 3 hrs.
(p. 354); descend to Lenz; go by Alvaschein, and the Schynstrasse to Thusis
and the Via Mala; drive to Reichenau; diligence thence to Coire.
From Coire to the Schanfiggihal and to Aroia^ see R. 92.
90. From Landqnart to Schnls over the Fluela Pass.
The Pratigan.
Cimp. Maps, pp. 333^ 368.
57 M. DiuoENCB to Klosters (20V3 M.), twice daily in 5 hrs. (7 fir. 50,
coup6 9 fr. 65 c), to Davos-Dorfli (27Va M.) in 6 hrs. 50 min. (9 fr. 90,
coup^ 12 fr. 65 c); to Schuls (67 M.) in 14 hrs. (22 fr. 5, coupt? 27 fr. 25 c).
One-horse carr. fh>m Landqnart to Davos 40, from Davos to Schuls 32 fr. ;
^extra-post' and pair from Landqnart to Davos-Dorfli 74 fr. 60 c, to Davos>
Platz 79 fr. 80 c. ; from Davos to Tarasp 77 fr. 60 or 80 fr. 40 c. — This is
the direct route from Rorschach and Coire to the Lower Engadine. A
railway to Klosters is projected.
The Pratigatt Cmeadow- valley' ; Roman. Vol Partenx)^ a somewhat
336 Route 90. SCHISRS.
narrow valley, richly tprinkled with fruit-trees, ia noted for ite fertility,
its exceUent pasturage, and its fine breed of cattle. At its moath and
in other places it is covered with the deposits of the Landquart. Among
the surrounding mountains are several snow-peaks. In its scattered dwell-
ings it resembles Canton Appenzell , but its climate is milder and its
soil more fertile. Population (Prot.) about 10,000. German is spoken, but,
as in the Tyrol, most of the villages have Romanic names , that language
having once been spoken here. The JthaeUkon chain, to the N., cul-
minating in the Scesaplana (see below), separates the Pratigau from the
Montavon (p. 405).
The road from stat. Landquart (p. 329) to the Pratigan crosses
(1/4 M.) the high-road to Coire. (On the other side of the Land-
quart is the charmingly situated Malans; in the background to
the N.W. rise the Cnrflrsten and the St. Luziensteig between the
Fiascherberg and the Falknis.) Beyond the (2 M.) inn Zum Pel-
setback we cross the Landquart, and enter the KlUy a narrow
gorge, 3/4 M. long, the entrance to the PrSUgau. On the projecting
rocks are a few fragments of the castle of Fragateinj which once
commanded the mouth of the gorge. In 1799 the French had to
make a d^tonr in order to capture this defile, which was bravely de-
fended by the peasants.
A steep road diverging to the right, before the bridge is crossed, as-
cends to the (31/2 M.) Kurhaua Yalzeina (3671' \ R. from 2, pens. 4-5 fr.),
prettily situated in the VcUzeisutthal. Thence to the top of tb^ Valteiner-
spitz or Saupt (4598' 3 fine view), >/« hr., easy; another fine point is
the CHprianspUz (5833'), reached in 2V2 hrs. by Hinter-VaheUa. A bridle-
path leads over the Stumaboden (4505') and through the Schlundtobel to
(2Vt hrs.) Zizers (p. 329).
Beyond the Klus the valley expands. We soon reach Pardida^
Sehmitten, with the ruined castle of SolaverSj and (1^/4 M.) Chrftseh
(2113'; *Krone; Roaengarteri). Large embankments were con-
structed across the valley in 1847-48 with a view to reclaim the
land devastated by the Landquart.
Carriage-road from Pardisla to the left to (IVs M.) Beewis (2986'; *Kw-
AatM, pens. 5-7 fr., carr. at the Landquart station, 2-3 p.m.; *ffdt.-PeM.
Scesaplana and Pern. Walter^ at the E. end of the village; civil landlord,
Hr. A. Walser, well acquainted with the district), a summer resort,
charmingly situated on the hill-side amidst rich pastures. The poet Glau-
denz de Salis-Seewis (d. 1834) is buried in the churchyard here. Pleasant
walks to the Tanzhoden^ above the school, and thence to the Ahomgrvppe
and the Marku*platz QU hr.); to Mamein (3661'; Vi ^i**); to the Maiensass
or chalet of Maian (4282*; 1 hr.); to Fadera (3477': 1 hr.); and to the Mtm-
naz (3812'; 1 hr.). — Ascents. (Guides Fatuch &na Sprecher) : The Yilan or
Ochzenberg (erroneously Augsteoberg; 7802'; 4 hzB.; guide 5 £r.) affords a
splendid view. — Ascent of the Bcesaplana (?788'; 6-7 hrs. ; guide 14 fr.),
by the Alp Palitz and the (4Vs hrs.) BdtmuUa Clvb Hut (7800^; Inn in
summer) ; thence to the top by a steep path in 2 hrs. more (comp. p. 406).
— Passage of the 0avell-7och (75630 to the lAlner See 6 hrs. (guide 8 fr.),
rather toilsome (comp. p. 405).
7 M. Schiers (2155' •, *Post: Stem; Lowe), 21/4 M. from GrQsch.
On 24th April, 1622, the villagers defeated the Austrlans in the
churchyard. The women chiefly contributed to the victory, and
they have since enjoyed the privilege of first receiving the sa-
crament as a reward.
Over the Schweiterthor a057') or the DrueetUlwr (7728^) to (8-9 hrs.)
KOBLIS. 90. Route. 337
JSehrtms^ see pi 405 (both toilsome, and rarely traversed). — Ascent of the
KreuB (7218'} by Faiauna and 8Mserf>erg, in 4 hrs., interesting.
The road crosses (1 M.) the river, which it follows through the
narrowing valley to (3 M.) Jenatz (2462'; Post; Krone) and (1 M.)
Fiderisau (2447'; Niggli, plain).
A road ascends here to the right to (1 M.) the Village of Fideris (2962';
Inn, belonging to the owner of the baths ; several pensions), where a mon-
ument to the judge Schneider^ the *Hofer* of the Vorarlberg, was erected by
Archduke John. To the S. of the village (IV2 M. ; road for small vehicles
only) are the Baths of Ilderis (3480'), situated in a gorge. The water,
containing carbonate of soda and carbonic acid gas , is beneficial in pul-
monary complaints, like that of St. Moritz,but it is less powerful (pens. 5>^ fr.).
The road follows the Landquart through a magnificent rocky and
wooded gorge. To the left, high above, lies the hamlet of Putz, with
the mined stronghold of Castels, destroyed by the 'Gray Confederates*
In 1622. From a pine-clad hill to the right peeps the ruin of Strahl-
egg. We cross the Landquart to the hamlet of Dalvazza^ belonging
to the parish of iMftein higher up , and (2 M.) Kublis (2690';
*Krone; Steinboek'), a pleasant village.
Fbom KGblis to the Montavon, over the St. AnWnier-Joch (7848'),
8 hrs. to Gallenkirch, easy. From the village of (3 hrs.) 8t. Antonien (4660' •,
•Lotscher) the "Sulzfiuh (9324'; superb view) may be ascended in 4-5 hrs.
(trying; with guide). — To Schruns over the Partnun or Oruben Pass
(7^2*), 7-8 hrs.; over the Plasseggen-Jocit (7694'), 8 hrs.; both without dif-
ficulty. On the Partnun- Staff el ^ IVa hr. above St. AntSnien, is the
finely-situated H6t.-Pens. Sulzjtuh (5866': modest, pens. 5 fr.). — To Lano-
WIB8 by Centers and the Durannapass^ 5 hrs., see p. 343.
The road begins to ascend (above, to the right, is ConterSy
p. 343). It skirts the N. slope, affording fine views, crosses several
valleys with waterfalls, and leads by (1^2 M.) Saas (3260'; Post),
and (2V2 M.) Kezza Selva (3400'; *Jnn, moderate), the post-sta-
tion for the opposite village of 8 emeus, to (3 M.) Klosters (p. 338).
From the last height, we survey the Pratigau, with the finely
vaulted Silvretta Glacier terminating the valley to the E. ; to the
light rise the Roggenhom (dbOb') and the Gatschieferspitz (8770').
A carriage -road, descending by Hezzaselva and crossing the Land-
quart, leads hence to the considerable village of Serneus. In the valley
to the left, on the left bank of the Landquart are (1 M.) the Baths of
Bemeus (3225'; ^'Kurhaus, moderate), noted for its sulphur-spring. The
route hence to (3 M.) Klosters crosses both arms of the Landquart (1 M.),
and then keeps to the right, traversing pastures, and ascending the stream.
20^2 ^- Klosters is prettily situated among pastures and woods
in a broad valley, shut In on all sides by lofty mountains, and is
much frequented in summer. It consists of the three hamlets of
(2 M.) Dor^i (3690'; *Kurhaus Klosters-Dorfli; Pens. Schweizer-
haiis), Platz (3966'), 1 M. farther, with the church, and Brucke
(3907'), on the other side of the Landquart. The hotels in the
two last are : on this side of the bridge : *Hdt.-Pens. Vereina; *H6t.~
Pens. Brosi, R. & A. 3, D. 3, S. 2, B. 1 1/4, pens. 7 fr. -— Beyond the
bridge: *H6t.-Pens. Silvretta, or Kurhaus Klosters, R. 3-4, B. 1,
D. 3, S. 2, pens. 8-9 fr. ; *PerM. Florin). The Rutiwald, V4 M.
from the bridge, is well provided with benches.
BabobkeBj Switzerland. 12th Edition. 22
338 RouU90* KLOSTEBS. From Landquart
ExcuBSiosB. (Guides : Chr. and W. JaiM, L. Ouler, and Ani, Bchlegel.)
Attractive short walks to Aujt (>/« br.), MimbUl (1 hr.), MaHenhthe Q/x hr.),
the Schwarztee (IV4 hr.), Obere BUH (iV« hr.), etc. — To the BUvretta
Glub Hut (5 hrs. ; guide 7 fr.)i see below. From the hut to the fall of
the Silvretta Olaeier^ iVu br. there and back; to the top of the glacier,
3 hrs. — The Gotachna (7436'), 3V2 hrs. with guide, reached by passing the
Schwarssee (see below) and crossing the meadows of Pttnenny the Ca-
nardhorn (8666'j 5 bra. from Novai^ see below; 7 fr.) and the Aelpelti-
Bpits (8825'; 6 hrs.t 7 fr.), ascended through the S^lappinthtU^ are fine
points, free from difAcaUy. Oaaanna (8405'; 3V2-4hrs.; guide 7£r.); the
last part requires a steady head. Fisehahom (9790* ; 6 hrs. ; 7 fr.), through
tiie MGncJuUpthaly not difficult. More laborious are the uncehenerhoni
(9843'; 5 hrs. from the Vereina Alp, see below, and through the 8ii«er-
thal; 20 fr.) and the Platteah&mer (highest peak 10,587'; 6 hrs. from
Vereina ; 22 fr.). — The Bilvrettahorn (10,656'), 4 hrs. from the club-
hut (see below; guide f^om the hut 10 fr.), and the *OroMer Pis Bain
(10,870^), 6 hrs. from the hut (guide 20 fr.), present no danger to experts.
More difficult are the Klem-Buin (10,7100, V^rstanilahom (10,8830, See-
hdmer {Orozi-Littner, 10,200*; Grott-Seehom, 10,250*), and MUdrishom (9344').
Fbox Klostkbb to 868 BT THB Yebeina Pass, 9-10 hrs. (guide 12 fr.),
tolerably fatiguing. A narrow road ascends the right bank of the Land-
?uart, which is formed by the confluence of the Sardatea and F«r«tna,
Vs hr. above Klosters, and leads by Manbiel to (IVs br.) the Novai Alp
(tn[(y)^ on the left bank of the Sardasca. We now follow a bridle-path
to the right, and ascend the Vereina Falltfy, passing the Biutzaip (61580
to the (iVs hr.) YertifM Alp (62320, at the mouth of the Vemela VoIUm
(see below), and to the (Vi hr.) Alp Fremdvereina (64370, where the
valley divides into the JOrithal to the right and the SU$er-Thal to the
left. We ascend the latter to the (2V8 hrs.) pass of Vol Torta, or Yer-
eina Pass (87250 1 traverse the snow to the left of the Hffmli, and
descend rapidly by a rough path through the Val Sagliain* to (3 hrs.)
Bti4 (p. 389). Or, at the upper end of the Siiser Thai, we may turn to
the right to the Pleas Pass (8133") and descend thence through the Vol
Fless to the Susasca Valley and the Fluela road (p. 339) 3 H. above
Siis. A third route, the finest of all, leads through the JSrUhal (see
above), with the seven JOrise€» and the extensive JSri Olacier overshad-
owed by the Weitshom (10,130^), and across the Jbri-Pleas Paaa (84220 to
tile Val Fless and the Fluela road.
Fbom Elostebs to Lavin bt the Vebkela Pass, 10-11 hrs. (guide
12 fr.), suited for adepts only. From the Vereina Alp (see above) the
path ascends the Vemela VaUey (see above), passing the cavern of BatvUa-
Balmay to the Filler QleUeher; then a toilsome ascent on the ice to the
(6-7 hrs.) Yemela Pan {Laviner Joeh or Fuorcla Zadrelly 9131')- Steep de-
scent into the Val Lavinuoe^ to Maranffun^ and below the precipices of the
Fix Linard by the Alp da Mezt and Alp da Doura to Latin (p. 389).
Fboh Klobtbbs to (}uabda bt the Silvbbtta Pass, 10-11 hrs. (guide
;L6 fr.), fatiguing, but presenting no difficulty to adepts. Road to Novai (see
above ; shorter path on the right bank of the Sardasca by Fardenn and
Oarjltin) and through the Sardasca Valley to the (3 hrs.) Bardasea Alp
(53640 ; then a path to the (2 hrs.) well-kept aHifreita Club Hut (about
7480^) on the Medje-Kopf (8225^1 close to the crevassed Silvretta Olader.
We then ascend tiie crevassed glacier to the (3 hrs.) Silvretta Paaa to the
W. of the Siffnalhom (10,8300, Bkirt the Kleine Fig Buin (10,710') , and
finally descend the steep and troublesome Plan-Rai glacier and through
the Vol Tuoi to (3 hrs.) Gitarda (p. 390). — From the club-hut to Guarda
over the Ver$tanklathor or the TiaUeha Past (Fuorela del Con^n), 7 hrs.,
two very trying routes, for adepts only (guide 16 fr.).
To theMontavon over the iSEi;A{<q>p<»er>ocA(8hrs.to Gall6nkirch),seep.406.
The high-road to Davos (one-horse carr. to Davos-Platz, 8yj M.,
in 2^2 ^TS.y 10 fr.) quits the Landquart, and in a long bend (which
walkers cut ofiF) ascends the Klcatereohe Stutx, a wooded hill sepnat-
to Schuls. FLUELA PASS. 90. Route. 339
Ing the Pratigau from the district of Davos. At (3 M.) Uhfor-Laret
(5017'; Inn), a group of chalets in a meadow, is the small Schwarz-
see. (Walkers may save time "by following the old road 8/4 hr. from
Klosters, crossing the RiedloMach Y4 M. beyond the bridge, and
ascending by the guide-post to the right, past the Schwarzsee.)
(1 M.) Ohet'Lofet; (% M.) St. Wolfgang (•H6t. Davos-Kulm,
pens. 5 fr.), at the top of the pass (SSSTQ. The road then descends
through wood, passes (3/4 M.) the chalets Oh dem See and a new
KufhauB, and skirts the bank of the Davoser See (5125'; 1 M. long),
a lake abounding in fish, and drained by the Davoser Landwasser,
About 74 M. beyond the S. end of the lake^ beyond the Seehom
Inn, is —
271/2 M. Davos-Dorti (5160' ; p. 340), where diligence-pass-
engers dine. To Davos-Flatz, see p. 340.
The Fluela road crosses the Landwasser. (To the right, at the
head of the Dischma Valley , rises the beautiful Piz Vadret, 10,565'.)
We ascend the sequestered Fluela VaUey^ on the right bank of the
Fluela, traversing wood, and passing the (4 M.) Inn Zur Alpenrose
(6004') and (IV2M.) the Tsehuggen Inn (6370'), to the bleak
upper part of the valley, bounded by barren slopes. (The old bridle-
path cuts off the windings of the road.) On the (4 M.) —
38 M. Fluela Pass (7835' ; *Fluela Hospice, R. 2, D. 4 fr.) the
road passes between two lakes, the. first of which (SchottenseeJ, on
the right, contains greenish-white glacier-water, the other on the left
(Schwarzsee) clear spring-water. To the N. rises the Weisskom
(10,130'), to the S. the Schwarzhom (10,338').
The 'SehwarEhorn ^10,338' ; 3-3V2 hra., guide 8 fr.), an admirable point,
ifl not difficult. We descend the road to the E. for 1 M., and then aacend
the BadUnthal by a path to the right, over stony and grassy slopes, to the
(1^^ hr.) glacier. This we cross to the (20 min.) base of the peak, and
ascend its steep S. arSte to the (V4 hr.) top. Imposing panorama : most con-
spicuous from 8. to W. are the Pis Vadret, and beyond it the Bernina, Piz
Bosde, etc.; the Piz Kesch, Piz d'Aela, Tinzenhorn, Piz St. Michel (and,
farther off, the Valaisian and Bernese Alps) ; Lenzerhorn, Todi, Glarnisch,
Sentis , Scesaplana , in the foreground the Silvretta, the Oetzthaler Femer,
Piz Liscfaanna, Pisoc, Ortler ; then the valleys of Fluela, Dischma, Davos,
and the Lower Engadine with Ardetz and the chateau of Tarasp.
The road descends the rock-strewn valley in windings, and cross-
es the Susasca at (2V4 M.) Chant Sura^ by a road-menders' hut
(7143'). To the right opens the dreary Val Orialetschj at the head
of which rises the jagged Piz Vadret (10,665'), with the great
Orialeisch Glacier. The road crosses a torrent from the Val Flesa
(p. 338) on the left. Fine retrospect of the Schwarzhorn. Farther
down, we cross to the right side of the valley and pass through a
gallery, beyond which Siis, with its ruined castle, becomes visible
in the valley, with the three-peaked PiaAf cadi (p. 389) above it. Then
a descent in windings (old road to the left a short-cut) to (7 M.) —
44 M. Su8 (p. 389); thence to (57 M.) Schuls, see R. 103.
22'
340
91. From Davot-Dorfli to Coire vi& Lens
(Landwasser Route),
Comp. Map^ p. 388.
36 M. DiLiQBNOE dally In 8 (returning in S^/O hrs. ; U*/* fr., coupe
17 fr. 40o. — EzTBA-PoBT, witb two horses, from Coire to Davos-Platz 106 fr.
40 c, to Davos-Dorfli 111 fr. 10 c; through the Schyn Pus 130 fr. 20 c.
or iSa fr. 90 c. — Two-horse carr. from Coire to Wiesen 70, to Davos
100 fr. — The "LanduiMur Road, constructed in 1870-73, vies in boldness
of structure with the Schynstrasse and the Via Mala, and surpasses them
both in the grandeur and variety of the scenery it traverses.
The district of Davos (Rom. Tavau}^ a lofty Alpine valley, about 8 M.
long and Vs M. broad, with 18(X) Prot. inhab., consists of pastures and a
few corn-fields, sprinkled with cottages and chalets. It is enclosed by
wooded mountains, and watered by the Landwcuser. Around the five
churches of the valley are grouped the hamlets of Difrjli, Am Plait (or St.
Johann am PlaU), Frauenkirch, Olaris, and, in a lateral valley, Monstein.
Down to 1848 the district formed one of the 26 sovereign jurisdictions of
the Orisons (p. 332). The Inhabitants are said to have been originally
German immigrants from the Valais, who settled here in the I3th century.
Dayos-Ddrfli (5160'; Kurhaua Davos-Dorfli^ pens. 6-7 fr., well
sheltered; *H6L Fluela, R.&A. 2V2, B. 1, D. 3fr. ; Pens. Oredig,
BtUevfU^ Paul^ Villa Sonneck'), is prettily situated at the base of
the Schiahom (8900'). Opposite, at the head of the Dischma valley,
to the S.E., is the Scaletta Glacier with the Piz Vadret (>. 341);
and to the left rises the Schwarzhorn (p. 339).
Pleasant walk to the (V4 hr.) Davoser See (p. 339), with promenades
on its E. bank. The Weissjluh (9306'; ascended by Meierhof in 4V« hrs. ;
guide advisable) is a fine point of view (alternative descent to LtMntfwie*^
p. 343). — The Pi$chahom (9790* ; 5>/2 hrs. % guide 10 fr.) is ascended without
difficulty via Tschuggen^ see p. 339.
13/4 M. BavOB- Plats. — *KuaHAU8 Davos; ♦Hot. d'Angletbb&e ;
*Hot.-Pens. Buol; •Hot. Bslvedebb, pens. 6-10 fr. ; *H6t. Victoria, in
the English style; ^Hdx.-FENS. GabeA; •Hot. Rhatia, B. A L. 3, pens.
6V«-10fr. ; •Post, moderate; •Hot. Stbela; *ScHWBiZEBHor; Davosexhof;
Bathhaus, moderate; Hot.-Pens. Windsob; Pens. Eilp. — Apartments at
the Centralhof, Villa Florenzoy Villa Morosani, Tavema Hovee^ Fret Hotue^
Villa Ddnier^ etc. — Cafi in the Kurhatia HoUboer. Wine at the VeltlinerJutlle.
— Visitors^ Tax IV2 fr. per week. — The Frideridanum is a school for
boys with pulmonary affections (Dr. Perthes).
Gabbiagbs. One-horse, to Davos-Dorfli 3 fr., two-horse 5V» fr. ; to
Spinabad and Glaris 6 or 12, Schwarzsee 7 or 13, Tschuggen 8 or 16, Klos-
ters or Hoffnungsau 10 or 18, Fluela Hospice 12 or 22, Wiesen 16 or 28,
Tiefenkaaten 25 or 45, Thusis 36 or 65, Landquart 26 or 60, Coire and
Bagatz 35 or 65, Tarasp 32 or 60, Samaden 45 or 80, Pontresina 50 or 90 fr.
Davos-Platz, or 8t. Johann am Piate (SllSQ, the capital of the
district and of the ancient league of the ten jurisdictions, with pictur-
esque houses scattered among the pastures, is a favourite summer and
winter resort of consumptive patients. It is sheltered by lofty moun-
tains from the N. and E. winds, and the air is remarkably pure and
dry. The hall of the handsome Rathhaus (^Restaurant on the ground-
floor) contains interesting stained glass and other curiosities. A
band plays at midday and In the evening in Bolsboer^s Kurgarten.
Walks. To the Stein (Bestaur.), above Hotel Buol, with fine view,
20 min. — To the Waldhaut (Hdt.-Pens.) at the entrance to the Dischma-
thal, 20 min. — To Davot-DHrfli and the Davoser See (see above), */• hr. —
DAVOS. 91. Route. 341
CfeiMjSger, Vsbr., and waterfalls in the Alberti-Tc^el^ Vs^'- — Sehatzherff
(6160' ; refreshm.), lb r. ; Strela-Alp (6496'), IV4 br. ^ G'riene Alp, and /«<;Aa-
uillp, each 1 hr. — To Frauenkii'ehy */4 br. ; baths of Clavadel, 1 hr., etc. —
AscBNTs (guides, A. Mettier, L. Ardiiser, A. Corai^ and others). *8chia-
hom (8900^), by the Strela Pass (p. 344), 4 hrs. (guide 7 fr.) ; easy and inter-
esting. — Alteingrat (7808'), by Glaru, 4V5jbr8., not difficult (guide 8fr.)5
easily ascended from Wiesen also, via the Alvcucheiner Alp (p. 342). —
•Schwarghom (10,338'), from the Fluela Pass, 3 hrs. (10 fr.), see p. 389. —
Piz Vadrei (10,565'), by the Scaletta Pass, 6 hrs. (guide 20 fr.),an interest-
ing glacier-expedition for experts. — Hoch-Ducan (lOjOeC/), from Sertig'
D&rfli (see below) 6 hrs. (20 fr.), difficult and very fatiguing.
Fbom Davos to Scanfs ovkk the Scaletta Pass, SVa hrs., attractive
(direct route from Davos to the Upper Engadine; noviees only need a
guide). From Davos-Dorfli we follow the high-road to Davos-Platz for a
few hundred paces, turn to the left into the DUchma Valley^ and reach (2V4
hrs.) the inn Im DUrrboden (6598'), with a fine view of the Scaletta
Olader. To the left rises the Schwarthom (10,338^, ascended hence in
4 hrs. (better from the Fluela Pass, p. 389). The rough, stony path ascends
in 2 hrs. more to the Scaletta Pass (8592'), lying between the KUhalphom
(10,106') and the Sealettahom (10,066'). A hut affords shelter ; view limited.
Descent, very steep at places, but enlivened by waterfalls and views of
the lateral valleys with their glaciers, to the Alp Foniauna (T^IO'), and
through the Sulsanna-Thal to (2^/2 hrs.) Sulsanna (poor inn) and (I/2 hr.)
Capella in the Innthal *, then to (IV2 H.) Scanfs (p. 38B).
From Davos to Coire by the Strela Pass (Sehanfigg, Arosa)^ see R. 92;
to Arosa by the Mepenfelder Furka, see p. 344.
To BEBodN OVBB THE Sebtiq Pass, 8 hrs., interesting (road to
Serting-Dorfli ; then a bridle-path, without guide). About 1 M. to the
S. of Davos-Platz the road diverges from the Frauenkirch road to the left,
crosses the Landwasser, enters the pretty, wooded Sertig-Thal, and leads
past (2 H.) the small sulphur-bath of Clavadel (5460' ; pens. 41/2 fr.) and
many scattered chalets to (4 M.) Sertig-DSrfli (6102'^ Gadmer, rustic), with
the church of the valley. Above the village ('Hinter den Ecken**) the valley
divides into the Ducan-Thal to the right, from which a fatiguing route
leads over the Ducan Pass (8763') to Filisur, and the KHhalpthal to the left,
through which the brjdle-path now ascends to the (2V2 hrs.) Sertiir Pass
(90620j between the KUhalphom (see above) and the Hoch-Ducan (10,060').
Fine view of the Porchabella Olader and Piz Kesch (11,228') towards the 8.
We then descend to the right past the Raveisch Lakes and through the
Val Tuors to the chalets of Chiadavuot (6106') and (3 hrs.) BergUn (p. 366) ;
or we may descend from the pass to the left through the Val Sertig to
the (1 hr.) Alp Fontauna (see above) and through the Sulsanna-Thal to
(4 hrs.) Scanfs (p. 388).
Below Davos are several torrents witb their broad stony deposits.
The road follows tbe right side of the valley, which is sprinkled
-with houses and chalets , in view of the tooth-like Tinxenhom
to (2^2 M.) Frauenkirch (Post, well spoken of), protected from
avalanches by a bulwark, with a picturesquely situated old church.
To the left opens the Sertig-Thal, in which lies Clavadel (see
above). The valley contracts. We cross the Landwasser near the
(ii/2 M.) 8pinahad (4816'), a sulphur-hath (good, though plain)
prettily situated amidst pines, and pass (8/4 M.) Qlari» (Post), scat-
tered on the pastures of the right bank. The road then leads through
the pictuxesque, wooded valley, on the left bank of the stream, In
the direction of the Pits 8t. Michel (p. 366), to the (21/2 M.) Schmelz-
boden Hoffhungsau (4362'; Inn), a foundry disused since 1847. To
the right rise the precipitous pine-clad and stony slopes of the Zuge,
342 RouUOl. WIESEN. From Davos
Below the foundry the valley contracts to a wild gorge. The
new road (ZiigenstrcuseJ follows the left bank for ^/^ M. more,
leads through a tunnel and au avalanche-gallery, and crosses to
the right bank, where it soon begins to ascend. Three more tun-
nels and another avalanche-gallery. The *Barentritt, a projecting
platform on the road-side, 250' above the Landwasser, affords a
striking view of the grand and wild valley, into which the Sdge-
tobelfally 105' high, is precipitated on the right. The road crosses
the Sdgentobel and the Briickentobelj and ascends in long windings
to (23/4 M.) —
I2V2 M. Wieeen, Rom. Tein (4720'; *H6U'Pens, Btllevut and
*H6U-Pen8. Palmy ^ belonging to the same landlord; pens. 6-7 fr.
at both), on the sunny S. slope of the Roihhomstoik ^ high above
the Landwasser, sheltered from the N. and N.E. winds, and a
health-resort for patients with pulmonary and nervous complaints.
To the S., beyond the deep gorge of the Landwasser, on the green
slopes of the StuUergrat (8790'), lies Jenisherg. Farther distant are
the huge Tinzenhom (10,2780 and the Piz St. Michel (10,370').
Walks. To the Ti^entobel (see below), 20 min.; the road commands
a beautiful view of the Tinzenhom, Piz Michel, and Piz d'Aela; farther
on is (40 min.) Schmitten, Beyond the Tiefentobel we may deacend to (V4 hr.)
Bodmen (41^), with its ruinous houses s pleasant forest-path thence into the
gorge of the Landwasser, to the Th$erhiitte^ and to the Leidboden (20 min.) ;
then either return to (^4 hr.) Wiesen, or cross the stream and traverse fine
larch-forest interspersed with pleas antglades to (Ihr.) FHimr (p. 366). — To
the (35 min.) *Jenuberg ^Wdgre (3900'), 273' above the Landquart. A few paces
to the left, before reaching the bridge, we have a fine view of the Kdnteli
Waterfall. From the bridge a steep ascent to (iVihr.) Jenuberg (5010') ; then
by a path, very rough at places, high above the Zugenstrasse, with fine
views of the Davos valley, to the (IV4 hr.) Soj^ungsau (see above). —
To the (^/4 hr.) *Bdrentritt^ and by the romantic ZUgenttratie to the
Hoffnungtau foundry and to Davos (see above). — By the old Davos road
(see above), passing the BrUckentobel, MUhletobel^ Sdgetobel^ and Steigtob^y
to the (IV2 hr.) Steighalde, an open pasture with an extensive view. (On
the right, below the path, is the considerable central Sagetobel Water-
fall, which deserves a visit.) — The Wiesener Alp (63i(/; good forest -paUi,
IV'ihr.) is a good point of view; a finer is the *Sandhubel (90600} ascend-
ed from the Alp in 2V2 hrs. (riding practicable).
Beyond Wiesen (1 M.) the road crosses the profound Tiefentohel
(with a large avalanche -bulwark above it), and passes through a
tunnel. The church of (2M.) Schmitten, Roman. Farrera (4150' ;
Adler ; Kreuz ; . Krone) j on a grassy hill, now becomes visible . Below
the village the Alhula unites with the Landwasser.
To FiLisuB (p. 866). Walkers may take a footpath which diverges from
the road to the left near the church, descends in a wide corve, crosses
the Schmitterbach, and joins the Albula road before the (}ht hr.) bridge
across the Landwasser between Bad Alveneu and Filisur. — From Wiesen
across the Leidboden to (IVs hr.) Filisur (boy as guide), see above.
The road crosses the Schmittertobel to (IY2 ^0 ^^Ivaneu^ Rom.
Alvagne (3887^. To the S.£. we obtain a pleasant view of the
Bergiiner Thai, separated from the valley of the Landwasser by the
Stulsergrat (8790') ; in the background rises the AUnUahom (Pii
Uertsehj 10,738'). Beyond Aivaneu the road remains on the hill
to Coire. LANGWIES. 92. Route, 343
foT a shoit distance, and then descends by a long curve into the
large CrapanaUra-Tobel, where it divides. [The road to Tiefen-
kasten fused also by the Albula diligence, p. 365) descends to
Surava (Bad Alvaneu lies to the left, see p. 365), in the Albula
valley, and leads to (61/2 M.) Tiefmkasten (p. 368), 10 M. from
Wiesen.] The road to Golre follows the hill-side, and crosses a cove-
red wooden bridge at the base of the castle of Belfort (3576'),
destroyed in 1499, a picturesque ruin on an almost inaccessible
rock. Then (3 M.) Brienz (3713'), and (2 M.) —
22 M. Lens (p. 368); thence to Churwaldm and (14 M.)
Coire, 36 M. from Davos-Dorfli, see R. 99.
92. From Coire to Davos through the Schanfiggthal.
Arosa.
Comp. liapy p. 388.
From Coire to LanfftHety i3V^ M., diligenee daily in 4*/4 hrs. (4 fr.
25 c.); carriage with one horse 20, two horsea 86 fr. From Langwies to
Davos, hj the Strela Pass, bridle-path in iVs ^n. (guide or horae 10 fr.);
to Arossu bridle-path or foot-path in 2V2 hra. (road being inade)^ hone
10 fr. and fee of oO c. The diligence does not take heavy luggage.
Coire, see p. 333. Immediately outside the to-wn the road
begins to ascend the steep slope of the Mittenherg (p. 336), and
beyond a rocky cleft it commands a fine retrospect of Coire and
the valley of the Rhine. Below (3 M.) Maladers (33219 it enters
the pietnresqne Sohanflggthal, -with its woods and meadows. The
Plesaur, far below in its wooded gorge, is fed by many affluents
from both sides. Beside the bridge which spans the deep ravine
of the Calf reiser Tobel is a pretty waterfall, and a little beyond It
is another rocky cleft, through which the road passes to (3 M.)
Calfreisen (4093'), to the left of which above the road, rises the
ruin of Bemegg. Crossing the Castieler Tobel, we next reach
(1 M.) Casiitl (3968' ; Hemmi, good wine). The road now winds
along the mountain-slopes, maintaining a tolerably uniform level
and crossing the Olasaurer Tobel and the Orosstobel, to (3^/4 M.)
St. Peter (4126'; Pens. Badrutt, 4 fr., well spoken of), and con-
tinues by Peist (4382' ; Inn) and over the Peister Tobel, the Frauen
Tobel, and the Orundje Tobel, to (38/4 M.) —
131/2 M. Langwies (4616' ; Pens. Maitli, 4Vr6 fr. ; Bdr\ the
chief place of the Schanflgg, occupying a sheltered position at the
foot of the Strela Pass. To the S. opens the Arosa-Thal (p. 344).
Fbom Lanowibs to Eublis bt the Dcbanna Pass, 5 bra., an eaay
and attractive route. A bridle path ascends by Fondei or Strassberg (62740
to the C2V2 hrs) marshy summit of the pass (6966'), between the Weissfluh
(see below) on the right, and the KUienstein (8134') on the left. View of
the Rhaeticon chain, etc. We descend by the Fidsriser Alps to (2 hra.)
Confers (STlfi*), whence a carriage-road leada to O/2 hr.) Kilblis (p. 337). —
The Weiaafltth (8340') may be ascended in 8V2 hra. from Langwies, either
via Fondei or via the Haupter Alps near the Strela Pasa (eaay and attrac-
tive 5 deacent if deaired to Davos, comp. p. 84Q).
344 RouU9S> AROSA.
AroBa, vMch has lately oome into favour as a health resort
both in summer and in winter, may be reached in 2^2 hrs. from
Langwies either by means of a bridle-path, the first part of which
is very miry even in dry weather, or by means of a sUghtly shorter
but stony foot-path on the left bank of the Arosa. The latter is
the preferable route. (A new road will be ready in 1887.) The
two paths unite before reaching (1 hr.) LUtenruti, Thence the
route leads through wood to the (V4 hr.) *P€ns, Stehof {blW ;
4-4^2 f^O) situated on the little Vntersee in the Seegrube^ or lower
part of Arosa, and skirts the lake on the right (the larger Obersee
lies V4 M. to the N.) to the *Pens, Roihhom (4-5 fr. ; post and
telegraph office), which commands a fine view. A little aside
and somewhat higher lies the larger *PefM. Waldhaus (4^2 fr*)*
About 3/4 M. farther, at the beginning of the village proper , are
the ^Pens, Brunold (plain) and the *Kurhau8 Arosa (6035';
672"^ ^^0) situated among meadows at a distance from the woods.
These houses are all generally full in summer, and travellers who
have not engaged rooms in advance are liable to disappointment.
ExcuKBiOKS. From the Pens. Rothhom past the Obersee to the O/2 br.)
hamlet of Maran (6036'; rustic inn) and to the (1 hr.) Churer Alpen (see
below). (Boats for hire on both Obersee and Untersee.) — From the See-
hof to the (1 hr.) pretty waterfall in the Welschtobel. — From the Kur-
hauB to the top of the Tsehuggea (6727'; Va ^'-'^ easy)- From the Kurhaus
to the (1 hr.) bine SchweUisee (6294') and the (?/a hr.) Aelpluee a052') at
the foot of the Rothhom (see below). — The Aroser Weisahom (8706';
2Va hrs. from the Kurhans, with guide) is an easy and attractive ascent.
— The ^Aroser Bothhom (9787'; splendid view) is most conveniently as-
cended through the Weltchtobel (4V2 hrs., with guide); the descent past
the Aelpelisee and the Schwellisee takes 2V2 brs.
Passes. Fkoh Aiio£a to Davos by the Meyenfelder 7ur«a (8000)
between the Furkahom (8948') and the Atfue\/iuh (9130'), 6 hrs. to Frauen-
Irirch (p. 341), shorter but not so attractive as the Strela Pass. — To Coike
by the Churer Alp^ Tschiertschen (4431'; Inn)^ and Frada^ 6 hrs., the
shortest route for walkers; a more fatiguing route leads over the Oar-
menna Pass (7796'), between the Weisshorn and the Plattenhorn, with a
steep descent to the Urdenthal and to Tschiertschen. — To Pabpan, 6-7 hrs.
with guide (10 fr.), attractive; we pass the J7dr»K (8190') to the Urder Augst-
berg (7880*) with its small lake, and cross the Urden Fjirkli (8628), between
the Parpaner Weisthom and the Parpaner Schtcanhom^ to Parpan (p. 367).
— To Alvaneu through the WeUchtobel and across the Furcletta (8462') to
the £. of the Pit Naira (9420), descending by the Alp dil Ouert and the
Almtmeuer Maietu&sse^ 6-6 hrs. with guide, toilsome but attractive.
FnOM Lanoivies to Davob, 472 hrs. The bridle-path (guide
unnecessary; road projected) over the Strela Pass crosses the
Fondeier Brook and ascends (keep to the right) through woods and
meadows past Eggen, Dorfli^ Schmitten, and Kupfen (all belonging
to the parish of Sapun) to the (3 hrs.) Strela Pass (7796' ; fine
view), between the Strela (8646') on the right, and the Schia^
horn (8900'; easily asoended from the pass in 1 hr. ; see p. 341)
on the left We descend to the (8/4 hr.) Strela Alp (6494') and
thence either to the right by the Schatz^Alp to (8/4 hr.) Davos-
Platft (p. 340) or to the left to (1 hr.) Davos Dorfli (p. 340).
345
98. From Coire to Goschenen. Oberalp.
S€e MapSt pp. 346, 96.
63 H. DiLiasNCB twice daily in 141/4 hrs. (24 fr. 25, coup^ 29 fr. 90 c),
once via Flims, and once by the new road by Bonctduz, a nigbt in this
case being spent at Disentis. — Extra-Post with two horses from Coire
to Andermatt 157 fr., with three horses 215 fr.; to Goschenen 156 fr. 40 c.
and 227 fr. — Gakriaqs with one horse from Coire to Beichenau 6 fr. ; with
two horses to Reichenau 12, Films 30, Ilanz 45, Disentis 80, Andermatt 135,
Goschenen 145 fr.
CoWe, see p. 333. Beyond the Plessur bridge the road diverges
to the right, passing Hoaang^s Stiftung (an agricultural school).
In the distance, to the right, towers the snow-clad Brigelser Horn
(p. 349), a conspicuous feature in the landscape all the way to Truns.
Beyond the Rhine, at the foot of the Calanda (p. 329), lies the village
of Felsbergj which is menaced with a fate similar to that of Goldau
(p. 96). Part of the rock fell in 1850. The road passes through the
large village of (4 M.) EmSy Rom. Domat (ISSC), with the scanty
rains of the castle of Oberems. The mounds of earth h6re and near
Reichenau are probably remains of an old moraine. Near Reichenau
the road crosses the Rhine by an iron bridge.
6 M. Eeiclienaii (1936'; *Adler), a hamlet at the confluence of
the Vorder-Rhein and the Hinter-Rhein. The best view of the
rivers is obtained from a pavilion in the garden of M. de Planta,
adjoining the Adler. At their junction, the Vorder-Rhein, in spite
of its superior volume. Is driven back by the boisterous Hinter-
Rhein, which descends from the Bernardino. To the W. towers the
Brigelser Horn. The pleasant garden is open to visitors (and may
be seen during the halt of the diligence). The CMteaUj opposite
the entrance to the garden, erected by the Bishops of Coire , and
named by them after the Abbey of Reichenau on the Lake of Con-
stance (p. 23), now belongs to Dr. A. v. Planta. In 1793 Louis
Philippe sought refuge here under the name of Chabot, and memorials
of his visit still exist (fee 1 fr.).
From Eeichenan to Thuiis (Via Mala)y and by the ^lilgen to Colico,
see p. 356 \ by the 8. Bernardino to Bellimona.^ see p. 362. — Sehyn Road
from Thiuis to Tie/enkcuten^ see p. 356; Kunkels Pass to Ragatz^ see p. 332.
TS^w Road fbom Rbighemad to Ilanz, ISVs M., on the right bank of
the Ehine (diligence daily, see above). From Beichenau to (1 M.) Bono-
due ^ see p. 355. The road here diverges to the right from the Spliigen
road between the Alte Post and Simones** Inn. For IVs M. it is per-
fectly straight and level; then, gradually ascending, it traverses wood
for */4 ]{., beyond which it leads high above the picturesque Vorder-
rheinthal, hewn in the rock at places, and commanding a fine view. The
bold construction of the road is itself interesting. We next O/t M.) turn
sharply to the left into the picturesque valley of the Rabiusa (Vertamer
Tobel), and descend gradually, passing through a short tunnel, to {^/a M.)
a covered wooden bridge over the RcMtua or Safienbaeh (2392'; 260* above
the stream). We now ascend by numerous windings (which walkers
may cut off) to (2 M.) Versam (2982'; Joos, rustic), a loftily situated vil-
lage, with a fine view. After a level stretch of IV2 M., the road descends
towards the valley of the Yorderrhein, of which we have a striking
view. Opposite, on the left bank, high above the river, lies Laax
(p. 347). Further off, on the same bank, rises the Brigelser Horn (p. 349).
We next reach (i H.) Carrera. Still descending, we cross a picturesque
346 BouU 93. FLIMS. From Coirt
ravine, pass through a rock-tttimel, and reach (1 M.) VaUnda* (270(7;
Krone, rustic). Again descending, with a fine view before us, we pass
opposite the two villages of Bagent and that of Schleuit, with SeMo*$
L&toenberg, on the left bank (p. 347). We next pass (21/2 M.) Kdttrit, and
cross the (IV4 H.) broad stony bed of the Glamer to (^A H.) Ilanz (p. 347).
Through the Safier Thai, a valley watered by the Rdbiusa, a new
road leads from Versam to the S. to (12 H.) Sajien-Platz (4255'; Inn), with
a fine fall of the Camiua on the left. Bridle-path thence over the large
Alp Camana to Thalltireh (5545') and the (2i^ hrs.) CurirUUteherhof (5907')
at the head of the valley, with a splendid waterfall. Then a steep ascent
to the (2 hrs.) pass of the Bajierberg or LdehUberg (8170'), from which the
path descends the Stutzalp to (IVg hr.) Spliigen (p. 360). — To the E. of
Safien-Platz an easy route, the Olcu Pass CdObG'). crosses the Heingenberg^
and leads through the villages of Tscfuippina and Urmein^ to (4 hrs.) Thtuis
(p. 356).
The Road on the Lept Bank ascends trom Reichenau to (3/4 M.)
TamixLH (2244' ; Po8t)y Rom. Tumein^ where, paitlculaily from the
chuich-hili, we obtain an admirable survey of the Domlesckg (p.
355) and its numerous villages, with the Piz Curver (BTGC) in the
background; to theW. is the Vorder-Rheinthal with the Unterhom
(91800 and the Piz Riein (9030'). The Lavoi, descending on the
right beyond Tamins , forms a fine waterfall after rain% At (2 M.)
Trins (2822'; Post) rises the ruined castle otEohentriiu. At (V2M.)
Digg the road turns suddenly to the N. , passes through a cutting
(Porclas)^ and at the base of the precipitous FUmser 8tein (see be-
low) sweeps round the Seeboderhj a nearly circular basin enclosed
by wooded hills. Near (1 1/2 M.) Mulins (2720'; Inn), picturesquely
situated, are several waterfalls on the right. To the left, farther on,
is the small CrestaLakCy surrounded by pines. About 2 farther is —
131/2 M. Plims (3616'; *Po$t, at the upper end, good beer ;
Acolas Inn, well spoken of), Rom. Flemy an ancient little town
with several mansions of the Clapaul family, which afterwards be-
longed to the Sails.
ExcuBSioNs (Guides, Joos^ Casutt, and others). A picturesque walk
may be taken to the Flembach Water/all and the Runea Bridge (20 min.)-
*Flim8er8tein (Crap da Flem^ 8845': 5 hrs.; guide 6 fr., unnecessary),
easy and repaying. The path ascends gradually by Fidax; then through
wood, round the S.E. angle of the mountain, to the (ls/4 hr.) pastures
of Bargis. Here we ascend to the left by a good path to the hilly
plateau of the Alp Sura (6896'; milk and bread; 1/4 hr. to the S. of
which is a rock affording a good survey of the Oberland Mts. and the
Todi). In 2 hrs. more we ascend to the ardte and the summit, where we
obtain a splendid view, especially towards the K., of the Bingelspitz and
Piz Dolf. We may descend to the N.W. towards Segues, and return to
Films by the Cassons and Foppa Alps. — *Vorab (9925'; eVa-? hrs. ; 20 fr.),
a very fine point, also easy (comp. p. 06). From Films to the brink of
the BUndnerbergfii-n ^ which has receded greatlv, 41/2 l^'s>; H^^^ np the
easy glacier to the (2 hrs.) summit, consisting of fragments of slate. Superb
view, particularly of the neighbouring Todi group; also of the 8emfthal
and the Bernese Alps from the (20 min.) N. peak, the Simer Vorab (9910').
— Ringelspitz (10,060'; 8 hrs. ; 25 fr.), difficult, only for experts.
Over the Segnes Pass to Elm (8 hrs.; 12 fr.), see p. 66. The Martinsloch
(p. 66), visible from this side also, may be reached in 4-5 hrs. from Films
(guide 18 fr.). — A visit to the upper Segnes Glacier (Segnes Sura; guide
10 fr.) hardly repays the fatigue.
The road leads through the valley of the Flembach and crosses
to Oo8€^ienen. f . ILANZ. 93, Route. 347
er to the (1 M.) Waldli&iuer(3615'; *n6t. Segnes, pens. 8-9 £r. ;
g M. farther, on a hill a few min. to the right of the road, the
.rge and well- situated *Kuran8talt Waldhaua - Flims , with two
j^pendances', R., L., & A. from 3Y2? l^- ^j board 7 fr.), a pleas-
nt summer resort, with beautifnl pine and beech woods. Near
t is the Flimser See or Cauma Lake (3280Q, embosomed in wood,
rithont visible outlet. Pleasant swimming and other baths (I/2 fr.),
to which a path descends in 20 minutes.
Traversing sequestered dales and skirting the deep Laaxer
Tobel on the left, we next reach (2 M.) Laax (3356'; •H6t.-Pens.
Seehof, close to the Laaxer See, with baths, pens. 7-8 fr.). (A
road to the right ascends in Y2 hr. to the lofty village of Fellers,
Rom. FcdUraj 3997'; splendid •View.) We now descend into the
Rhine Valley (passing Sagens far below, to the left) and reach
Schleuit (2507'), with the old chateau of Lowenberg, once the seat
of the De Mont family, now an orphan -asylum. Opposite lies
the large village of KastrU (see above). Before us, above Ilanz,
rises the Piz Mundaun.
201/2 M. nam, Rom. QUon (2355'; pop. 872; *H6i. Oberalp,
R., L., & A. 4, B. 11/2 fr. ; H6t. Rhatia on the right bank, by the
bridge; *Lukmanier, on the left bank, D. 31/2 ^r*; ^^l* ^t^m
Orauen Bund, new ; Krone, plain ; one-horse carr. to Disentis 20 fr.
and fee), mentioned in a charter of the 8th cent, as the 'first town
on the Rhine', built on both sides of the river, was the capital of
the 'Gray League* (p. 334). The upper part has narrow streets, and
old-fashioned houses adorned with armorial bearings. The population
is partly Romanic, partly German ; Romanic alone is spoken higher
up the valley. Ilanz is beautifully situated, overlooking the Rhine
Valley in both directions, and the broad Lugnetz Valley to the S.
The views are still finer from the old Church of St. Martin (257(/),
1/4 hr. to the S., on the left slope of the Lngnete Valley, and firom the
chapel of the pretty village of Luvis 028O')t Vs hr. higher. A most superb
prospect of the Orisons Oberland, and especially of the Todi chain to the N.,
immediately opposite, and of the Rhine Valley down to Zizers (p. 329),
is commanded by the "Fis Kondann or Fit Orond (6775'). This peak rises
to the S.W. of Ilanz in wooded slopes, above which are pastures extending
nearly to the top. The path (4 hrs. ; guide, not indispensable, 6 fr.)
leads by Luvis (see above), ascends on the S.E. side of the wood, crosses
a flat basin obliquely towards the left, and mounts the pastures to the
conspicuous (2V3 brs.) Inn (closed and falling to decay). Then in the
same direction, through a depression in the mountain, to the crest, which
we ascend to the W. to the top in 1 hr. more. The medi»val chapel of
3, Carlo remains to the left. Those who intend visiting the Lugnetzthal
(see below) may descend direct to Villa (p. 348 ; thence to the top 2 hrs.,
best way to reach it, guide 3 fr.), or by Morissen (4420'; wine at the curb's)
to (2 hrs.) Cumbels (see below). — Travellers bound for Disentis, instead
of returning to Ilanz, may follow a beautiful path through the district of
Obersaxent the chief village of which is Maierhof, and reach Truns (see
below) in 3 hrs. (guide advisable). — Those who ascend the Piz Mundaun
from Truns diverge from the road about 3 M. below the village, by the
telegraph-post Ko. 222, to the right, and ascend by a good path, at first
through wood. Farther on it overlooks the Rhine Valley and passes the
ruin of Axeiutein. After 2 hrs., beyond the chapel of 3t. Valentin, by
348 RouU 9S. LUGNETZ VALLEY. From Coire
a crucifix on this side of a ravine , we descend to the left into the val-
ley and reach (Vs hr.) Maierhof (4272'; ^M irrer, rustic). Then up sunny
pastures to the top of the Fiz Mundaun in 21/2 hrs. more.
The Lngneti Valley, watered by the Olenner ^ 15 M. in length (pop.
Bom. Cath. and Romanic), is one of the finest in the Orisons. Road to
Vals-Platz (14 M.: diligence from Uanz daily in 4 hrs. 20 min.; fare 3 fr.
90 c.) on the left bank, past the ruin of Kasielberg and through the (3 M.)
Frauenthor^ Rom. Porelcu (3336'), once the key to the upper valley. On
the opposite bank of the Glenner, high above the Rieiner Tobel^ lies the
village of Riein, and beyond it are Pitaseh and Duvin. Beyond (*/« H.) the
chapel of St. Moritz (3504') the road divides : that to the right ascenda to
Villa and Vrin (see below) ; that to the left descends to the village of Peiden
and the (IVz M.) sequestered Peidner Bad (2690^), on the right bank of the
Olenner, at the mouth of the Duoiner Tobel (a haunt of the chamois), with
three chalybeate springs. Then (1 V2 M.) Furth (2980*; *Schmid'0 Inn ; Piz
Mundaun) , at the confluence of the Vriner and VaUer Rhein^ which are
separated by the Piz Aul (10,2500> Opposite lies the picturesque Oberktutel*
(3274'). We now ascend the wild Valser Thal^ or St. PeUrtthal^ by St
Martin^ Lunschania^ and Campo to (71/4 M.) Yala-Flatz (4094' ^ *P«n«. Albin^
*JIdtel Piz Aul^ both plain;, or St. Peter^ from which a well-trodden
bridle-path leads through the P^iUr That^ a side-valley to the S.E., to
the VallaUch Alp (61780, the Vals€r Berg (82250, and (5 hrt.) Nufenen or
Hinterrhein (p. 363). The "* Weis»en$teinhom or Pit TomUl (9675'; 4 hrs.;
guide 7 fr.), ascended from Vals-Platz, is an admirable point of view ; ano-
ther is the BUrenhom (9620^; 4 hrs., with guide) ; from both we may descend
into the Safier Thai (p. 346). The Pit Aul (10,250*) is difficult (better from
Vrin, see below). To Vrin over the Fuorcla da PtUnaul (91130, to the S.,
between the Piz Aul and the Faltschonhorn, or over the SatteltelUcke (90620,
between Piz Aul and Piz Seranastga, both laborioos (6-7 hrs.; with guide).
The S.W. branch of the valley (Val Zervrotla), watered by the Valser
Rhein, divides at the hamlet of 2aervTeila (5840'; poor inn), 3^/4 hrs. above
Vals-Platz, into the Lentaihal to the S.W. and the KanaWial to the S. —
A toilsome route, requiring a guide, leads through the latter, across the
Kanal Glacier and the Zapporigrat 09314'), and down the PtaiUnteKhzdU
to the Zapportthal and (9 hrs.) ffmterrhein (p. 363). — In the grand and
interesting Lentatbal, 1 hr. above Zerveila, is the beautiful Lampertsch-
Alp^ or Sorreda-Alp (6581'; bed of hay). Thence over the Vemok or
VaneeelM Pass (98060 to Vrin (see below) in 6-7 hrs., not difficult; over
the Sorreda or Scaradra Peus (90680 to Olivone (p. 364), 8 hrs., both routes
toilsome ; over the LentalHeke (9692*) to Hinterrhein (9-10 hrs.) difficult, for
experts only, with good guides.
The road ascending to the right by the chapel of St. Moritz (see above)
leads to Gunnels and Villa (4060'; Post, rustic); then a bridle-path to Vigens,
Lumbrein, and (4 hrs.) Yrin (4770'; Casanova^ poor), the pHncipal village
in the Vrinthal or Upper Lugnetz Valley. From Vrin we may easily ascend
the Piz Regina (8294'; 4hrs. ; guide advisable), a fine point. Pit Cavel
(9660*; 5-6 hrs.), ascended by the Ramosa Alp and the Fuorela de Rennosa
(8694'), also easy: descent to the "S. to the Caveljoch (p. 360), if preferred.
Piz Aul (10,250' ; 6-7 hrs. ; with guidej^superb view), by the Seremastga Alp,
difficult, for adepts only. Pit Terri (9996r), also difficult, is ascended from
the Vanescha Alp, l'/4 hr. from Vrin, in 6 hrs., by the Blengias Alp and
the OUda Olaeier. Route over the Vaneseha Peus to Zervreila, see above
Over the Caveljoeh to Somvix, see p. 360. — From Vrin, with a guide (to
Olivone 18 fr.), we ascend past the mouth of the Val Vaneseha (see above),
to St. Qiusepp, Puzatsch, the Alp Diesrut, and the (3 hrs.) Pass Diesrut
(7953'), on the S. side of the Piz TgieUehen (93770- Descent to the Canwna
Alp (7333'), at the head of the Val Somtfix (see below), and again a gradual
ascent, passing the Pit Vial (10,3870 and the Pit GagUanera (10,2430 on the
right, and the Pit Coroi (913O0 on the left, to the Gkeina Pass (Peuso €fr€g»,
7743'). We next descend through the wild Val Camadra or upper part of the
Val Blegnoj with the Piz Medel (10,510') on the W.. by Daigra, Cottera,
and Ghirone, to (SVs hrs.) Olivone (p. 354). Or, halrway between the Ca-
to OoBchenen. TRUNS. 93. Route. 349
mona Alp and the Greina Pass, we may cross the low Montercueio Ptut
(7415*), to the left, to the Moniercueio Alp, and descend the pictaresque
Vol Ltusone to Loretolo, CavaUOy Davreieo, and Olivone (shorter than the
Greina route).
Boad from liana by Versam to Bcnaduz and Reichenau, see p. 345. —
From Hans to Elm over the Panixer Pens or the Sether Furia, see p. 66.
To JAnihthal over the Kistenpau, see p. 62.
The road follows the N. side of the narrow Rhine Valley, here
called Parddla; beyond (1 M.) Schnaus it crosses the Sether-Bachy
and beyond (IV2 M.) Ruis , beautifully situated on the hill to the
right, the Panixer-Bach. On a rocky hill to the right rise the
picturesque ruins of the robbers' stronghold of Jorgenberg (3100').
To the right, 1 M. above the bridge of Ruis, a road (diligence from
Xlanz daily in 2 hrs. 20 min.), eommanding fine views, ascends by the vil-
lage of Walientburg (3300') to (4 M.) Brigels (4230*^ *B6t.-Pem. Capaul-,
B6t. Kisttnpcui , mediocre), a summer resort, prettily situated amid pas-
tures. Above it the Vol Frisal, with the glacier of that name, ascends to
the BiferUmtock (11,240'), which, as well as the Pit Frital (lO^SiO') and the
Brigelier Horn (10,663'), may be ascended from the Yal Frisal (all dif-
ficult-, see below).
Farther on, the scenery is inferior. To the right rises the Bri-
geUer Horn (see above). The stream is crossed near (4^2 M.) Tava-
nasa (2622'; ^Kreuz), and again near (3 M.) Zignau or Rihkenberg.
High up on the N. slope lies Brigels (see above) ; then Dardina and
Sehlans, Before reaching Rinkenberg we observe on the left the
stony chaos formed by the inundations of the Zignauer Bach des-
cending from the Zavragia Ravine, By the bridge we enjoy a de-
lightful view, embracing numerous villages, chapela, and ruined
castles on the richly clot^ied slopes.
We next pass (IY2 M.) the CJiopel of St. Anna^ on the right,
marking the spot where the ^ Upper' or ^Oray League^ (p. 333) was
founded in March, 1424. The. solemn oath of the League was after-
wards renewed at intervals of ten years down to 1778. The ceiling
of the porch is adorned with frescoes, Latin texts, and doggerel
verses, renewed in 1836. A few paces farther is —
32 M. Trnng (2822'; *Krone; Zum Todi), The hall of the old
Statthalterei of the abbey of Disentis is adorned with the arms of the
members of the Gray League, and of the magistrates since 1424.
The Yal Funtaiglast ascending rapidly to the K., ends in the Puntai-
glas Glacier. Ascent of 2 hrs. from Truns to the Alp Puntaiglas (about
SCfiC), with a fine view of the Brigelser Horn. Piz Mut, Piz Ner, etc. The
8. peaks of the Todi group, Piz Urlaun (11,660'), BUndner Tddi (10,226'),
and Brigelser Horn (or Kavestrau Orond, 10,663'; very difficult), may be
ascended hence. Ascent of the Tddi-Rusein by the Olienup/orte, see p. 61.
Beyond (I3/4 M.) Rabius (3133') we obtain a glimpse, to the
left, of the grand Piz Oaglianera ri0,243'), with its glaciers, at the
head of the Val Somvix. Then (IV2 M.) Somvix {^summus views';
3458'), conspicuously situated on a height, as its name Intimates.
The Bomvixer Thai, which here opens to the S., deserves a visit.
We cross the Rhine to (V4 hr.) Surrhein, and ascend by a good bridle-
path on the left side of the valley, through wood and pastures, to Vol and
the (IV2 hr.) Bomvixer or Teniger Bad (4176'5 unpretending). Farther up
(Va hr.), we pass the Alp Valtenigia, where the glaciers of the Piz Vial
350 BouU 93. DiSENnS. From Coire
(10,8870 fl^^e revealed, and the month of tho Val Lavaz, and reach (1 hr.l
the rock-girt head of the valley, where the Oreina forms a fine water-
fall on the left. The P^Xh ascends steeply on the E. side of the TaUey
to the rocky defile of La FroMcha^ and divides higher up: to the left
to the Dwrut Past (p. 848), and to the right to the OreiM Pa$s (p. 348).
— Passes. From the Tenlger Bad (see above) over the Oivel-Joeh CS8l2ff)
to Villa, 7 hrs., not difficult. From the pass the Pis Cavel (9660^; fine view)
may be ascended in i^/i hr. ~ Over the Yalgronda-Joch (01200 to Tava-
ncua or Maierhof^ 7-8 hrs.; with guide. '— Ovbb thb Lavaz-Joch to
CuBAOLiA, 7-8 hrs., with guide, a very fine route. From the Teniger Bad
(see above) we ascend on the left side of the valley, through wood and
Alpine roses, to the Alp RentUri^ where from the heap of stones ^64(/)
we get a splendid view of the T5di. We may now either cross the Ftior-
ela de Stavelatsch (8376') to the right, or turn to the left and skirt the E.
slopes of Piz Rentiert (keeping to the right on the bilLby the chalet of
Rentiert-Dadens)y to the (2 hrs.) chalet of Stavelatseh (7682*) in the Val La-
vaz. Opposite are the two glaciers descending from the Pis Vial and Pis
Oaglianera (10,243') and the Lavaz Glacier. Then to the Lavmxjoeh (82320
an easy ascent of */« ^^'\ ^^^ ridge to the K. of the pass commands a
fine survey of the JfedeUer Glacier and of the Bernese Alps to the W.
Steep descent over grassy slopes to the A^ Sura (65260, and through Val
Plattas to (2 hrs.) Curaglia (p. 863).
The road between Somylx and Disentis Is very boldly constrneted.
A lofty wooden bridge (274 M.) carries it over the profound Bustiner
Tobel. (Below, to the right, a finger-post indicates the path to the
Sandalp Pass ; see below.) Above the (^/4 M.) Stcdusa Bridge is a
small waterfall. Near (I74 M.) Disentis, on the left, is the DUen-
tiser Hofy bnilt on the site of the ch&tean of CasteUterg, which was
burned down in 1830.
391/2 M. BisSntiB (3773'; pop. 1304; Deaertinum, Disiert, i.e.
desert; Rom. Mu8thr; *Di8enti8er Hof^ ^4 M. to the £., with fine
view, R., L., & A. 4-6, D. 472, S. 272) pens. 9 Ir., whey and ohaly-
beate water; *H6tel Condrau sur Post; opposite to it, *H6tel Con-
drau zur Krone; at both, R., L., ft A. 372-4, D. 3fr.), a smalltown
with a Benedictine Abbey, is protected against avalanches by a forest
The foundation of the Abbey in the 7th cent, soon brought Christianity
into the remote valleys of the Orisons ; and the Abbots , enriched
by liberal endowments , afterwards acquired great power in Rhastia.
The large abbey-buildings, on a height, now contain a school.
Near Disentis the MedeUer-Bhein or Mittel-Bhein (p. 353) unites
with the Vorder ' Rkein. A fine view (especially by evening-light)
Is obtained of the Medelser Glacier, and far down the valley, from
the Chapel of Acletta^ at the entrance to the Adetta Valley (4236'),
72 ^^' ^' of Disentis, to the right of the road to Sedrun.
BxGUBSiONS. (Guides: /. Petschent the schoolmaster; J. M. Schitoler,
hunter; P. Tenner and Jot. Hucnder). WiJk on the new *L«imanier Rotul
to (SVt M.) Curaglia (p. 863) interesting. Also by the chapel of St. Gada^
with old frescoes, to Mompi-Jfedel (1 hr.), on the right bank of the Rhine,
with fine view. To Crest- Mutatseh (>/i hr.); Alp Lumpegnia (IVa hr.), etc.
• The fine p3rramid of *Fu Xvrann (9510' \ 41/2 hrs. ; guide 8 fr.) is best
ascended from Curaglia (p. 863). Superb view, especially of the T5di group,
grander than from Piz Mundaun (p. 347). — Pis Patsola. see p. 861: PiM
Medel^ Pis Crittallina, see p. 864. — Crap Alv (9784') and Pis AuU (9967*)
may be ascended from the Vol Aeletta (each 6 hrs.; not difficult).
From Disentis over the Luknutnier (8!^) to Olioone^ see p. 868 *t through
to Oosehenen. SBDBUN. 93. Route. 351
the Vol Piora to Airolo, see p. 101. — Ovsb the Sand alp Pass to Sta-
CHKLBKB6, 11-12 hrs., with guide (26 fr.)} trying. We ascend the Val Rusein
(see above) to the Bandalp Pass (Sandgrat; 9i2(/) between the Lesser T&di
or Crap Olarun (10,0720 on the E. , and the CaUcharauls (10,050') on the
W., anddescend the 8and-Fim to the Upper Sandalp. Thence to LinthtMl,
see p. 61. — Ascent of the Tddi by the Porta da 8pe»eha, and descent to
Linththal, 18-19 hrs., for tfaoroagh adepts only, with able guides (see p. 61).
From Disentis over the Brunni Past (8875') to the M aderaner Thai (to the
Hdt. Alpenclub 8-9 hrs. \ guide 20fr.), see p. 110.
The road to (191/2 M.) Andermatt, which lies lower than
the old route, ascends the dale of Tavetschj leaving the hamlets
Acletta, Segnas, and Momp^ Tavetsch (4584') to the right. From
the height, where the road enters a wood, we obtain a beantiful
view of the Disentis district, which is very striking when approached
from Andermatt. The valley contracts. The road traverses woods
and pastures , overlooking the Infant Rhine in its deep valley, and
in view of the snow-clad mountains which we now approach.
45 M. Sedrnn (4587'; '^Krone) , locally known as Tavetsch^
is the pjincipal village in the Yal Tavetsch. The church contains
an old altar in carved wood.
The *Fiz Pasiola (8478'; 4 hrs.; guide unnecessary), to the S., be-
tween the Val Medel (p. 353) and the Val Oierm^ is worth visiting. We
cross the Rhine to Surrhein, and the gorge of the Val Nalps (see below) to
the (Vs hr.) Alpine hamlet of Cavorgia (4426'); then cross the Qierm and
ascend to the right, over pastures and through wood, to the (IV2 hr.) PaZ'
xola-Alp (6150"), with a fine view, and (2 hrs.) the top without difficulty.
Magnificent view, particularly of the Todi and the Medels Mts.
In the lonely Yal Nalps, the head of which is enclosed by lofty
mountains and glaciers, 3 hrs. from Sedrun, lies the Alp Nalps (5991'), and
2 hrs. higher is the Ufiem Hut (7550'), the starting-point for the Pit del
Laiblau (972O0, Piz Rondadura (9905'; comp. p. 354), Piz Bias (9918"), Piz
Ufiem (919000, Piz Git (9744'), Piz Serengia (9803'), etc. (each about 3 hrs.).
A tolerably easy route (with steep descent) leads hence across the Nalps
Pass (90350 to the Val Cadlimo and the Uomo Pass (p. 102). Another
(trying) leads to the E. over the Rondadura Pass (8904') to the Hospice of
8. Maria (p. 364). A third crosses the col between the Piz Furcla and
the Pis Paradis to the Val Camera (see below).
Fbom Skdbun to Amsteq over the Xriizli Pass (76450, 8 hrs., rather
trying (guide 15 fr.). The steep path ascends the bleak rocky Strimthal,
at the head of which the pass lies to the left (W.), at the S. base of the
Weitenalpstoei (p. 110). Guide necessary only to the point beyond the pass
where the Etzlibachj descending from the Spiellau-See to the W., becomes
visible. We cross the stream to Oulma (63220, the highest Alp, and des-
cend the JStzlithal, past the chalets of the Hintere and Vordere Etzlialp
to Bristen and Amsteg (comp. p. 110). — The Oheralpstoek {Piz Tgietsehen^
10,9250 may also be ascended from Sedrun (6 hrs.; 15 fr.); comp. p. 109.
From Sedrun the road leads through Camischolaa j Zarcuns, and
(II/2 M.) Bneras or 8. Oiaeomo (4597'; Oberalp Inn), crosses the
brook descending from the Val Milar^ and soon afterwards, near the
hamlet of Dieniy that which issues from the Vol Oiuf (both N. lateral
valleys). To the left, on a rock above the ravine of the infant Rhine,
stands part of the ancient tower of Pultmengaj once the ancestral
seat of the Pontaninger family.
Walkers will prefer the so-called ^Summbb Bodtb' to the high-road, for
the sake of the views. It diverges to the right by a finger-post (to 'Pass
352 BouU93. GHIAMUT.
Tiarma'*), ascends a spur of the Criapali (10,105')7 above the hamlet of CrU-
pausa which lies to the left, and leads past the chalets of Milee and 8<Jtarinag
amidst the richest pastures in this district. It now skirts the brink of the
slope, overlooking the Rheinthal, turns to the right into the bleak Val
Term* or TiarmSy crosses the OSmmerrhein (Som. Vcila) by the Afy Culm
de Vai (6420*), and ascends to the Paaa da Tiarms (706707 between (r.) the
Fiz Tiamu or BergU- Stock (9564') and (1.) the Calmot C^ddS^), where we get
a fine view of the Vorder-Rheinthal as far as the Vorarlberg and Bhsetikon
Mts. Descending to the Oberalpsee (see below), we keep to the left in order
to avoid a marsh, and regain the high-road 2V2 hrs. from Sedrun.
The high-road follows the direction of the old 'Winter-Route' on
the left bank of the Yorder-Rhein and passes the Chapel of St. Brida,
below the hamlet of Crispausa, and the poor villages of Selva (5046')
and (2 M.) Chiamuti or Tschamut (5380'; ^Zur RheinqueUe, plain ;
minerals), which consist of a few wooden huts and a chapel. In front
of us rises the Six-Madun or BadtLs, behind the second terrace
of which lies the Toma Lake (see below). Ghiamut is probably the
highest village in Europe where rye is grown. The road crosses
(Y2 M.) the Oammerrhein near its influx into the Vorder-Rhein,
and (1 M.), opposite the Alp Milez^ turns to the right (N.W.) into
the Val Surpalix , between the Piz Nurschallas on the left and the
Calmot on the right. The Vorder-Rhein (Aua da Toma^ or Darvun)
descends in a series of falls from the slope to the left.
Source of the Yorder-Rhein. The Vorder-Rhein rises in the Toma-Bee
(7690'), on the N.E. slope of the 8ix-Madun or Badm (p. 106). The path
to the lake (guide advisable) diverges trova. the road to the left, IV4 M.
above Chiamut (see above) \ near the Alp Milez it crosses the brook emerg-
ing from the Val Surpalix, and ascends to the (V2 hr.) Alp Tgietlenu.
Above this Alp (avoid path to the left, crossing the brook) we ascend
the pastures to the right, on the left bank of the Fil Toma^ the brook
descending from Piz Nurschallas. After about 1 hr. we turn to the left
and soon reach the rocky barrier behind which the lake lies. The Toma-
See (21/2 hrs. from Chiamut), a green lake, very deep, and destitute of
fish, about 270 yds. long and 130 yds. broad, is' bounded on the S. and
S.W. sides by precipitous rocks and stony slopes, and on the N. and N.W.
by pastures. The ^Badua (9616'; comp. p. ICfe) cannot be ascended direct
from the lake , the rocks being here too steep : but by going round to the
N. side we may reach the top without much difficulty in 2 hrs. (guide 10 fr.).
The *Piz Nurachallaa (9003'), running out from the Badus to the N.
(from the Oberalp Pass 2, from Chiamut SVs hrs. ; guide unnecessary), is
easy and interesting. We follow the Toma-See route, diverge to the right
where it turns to the left, ascend steep pastures , and lastly mount the
broad S. ar3te to the summit. Superb survey of the Reuss and Vorder-
Rhein valleys and the mountains enclosing them. Easy descent to the
Oberalp Pass, IV4 hr.
To the S. of Chiamut the Yal Oornera, the mouth of which is a
pathless ravine, ascends to the frontier chain of Tieino, and from it the
Val MaigtU diverges to the W., IV2 hr. from Ghiamut. Toilsome routea
lead from the Val Cornera over the Passo Vecchio (89080 to the Val Cetd-
limo and Piora (p. 101); from the Val Maigels, to the S., over the Pcuto
Bomengo (8649') to the Val CanaHa and Airolo (p. 101); and to the W^.,
over the Maigels Pass (7940') and the LohUn Pass (78S5'), to the Unteralp-
thai and Andermati'ip. 106).
The road ascends the sequestered Val Surpalix in long windings
(which paths cut off; one ascending to the left by the first bend,
and bearing to the right, leads to the pass in 3/4 hr.). It affords
QBERALP. 9.S, Route. 353
views of the Cri&pAlt and Berglistcx^, and of the Piz Cavradi, Piz
deir Uflern, and Piz Ravetsch behind ns. The (52 M.) Oberalp
Pass (6710^, SYa M. fiom Chiamut, forms the boundary between
the CriisoDS and Uri. Extensiye turf-diggings. (The diligence as-
cends to the pass from Ghiamut in 70 min. ; descent 40 min. ;
descent to Andermatt 1 hr. 10 min., ascent 2 hrs.)
The road skirts the N. bank of the sombre Ob^ralpseA (6654' ;
1 M. long), abounding in trout, the outlet of which is one of the
chief sources of the BeuaSj and then traverses the nearly level Ober-
alp (64433. About 3 M. from the pass we obtain a view of the
Ursernthal, with the Furka towards the W. (p. 111). The old path
descending here to the left direct to (^2 hr.) Andermatt is steep
and stony, and affords little view. The road remains on the hill a
little longer, and then descends by nine long winding* to (6 M. from
the lake") —
59 M. Andermatt (4738Q; thence to (4 M.) —
63 M. Oosehenen, see pp. 106, 106.
94. From Sisentis to Biasca. Lokmanier.
Comp. Mapsy pp. 346, $6, 360.
88 M. DiLiexHca in summer iaily ia 8>/4 hrs. (from Biasca to IHsentis
in 10 hrs.)*, fare 13 fr. 10c. Carr. and pair from Coire to OUvone 140, to
Biasca 180 fr.
Tbe Lvkminier (6390') is the lowest Alpine pass from Switzerland to
Italy with the exception of the Maloja (dOdO*). The lower part of the
new road, as far as Curaglia, vies in grandeur with the Via Mala and
the Schynstrasse , but the scenery farther on is not striking. Inns un-
pretending.
Diwntta, see p. 351. — The road crosses the Vbrder-£&ein by a
handsome bridge (3488') and enters the Val Kedel, the wild ravine
of the jlf ittel-22Aem, along the left bank of which it is carried by
means of onttings and tunnels (eleven as far as Onraglia). At the
end of the ravine, of which we obtain several striking views, we
cross (2^/4 M.) to the right bank of the Rhine and ascend in long
windings (cnt off by paths) to (^/4M.) —
31/2 M. Cnraglia (4370' ; UoL Lukmanier or Post), a village
at the entrance to the Val Plattas, which ascends to the S.E. to the
Medel Glacier. (Over the Lavazjoch to Somvix, p. 350.) To the
S., at the head of the Yal Medel, appears the Piz Cristallina
(10,267'), with its glacier. — *Piz Muraun (3 hrs.; repaying),
see p. 350.
Following the right side of the pleasant Yal Medel , the road
passes (1 1/4 M.)Platta (4528'; Post), a straggling village, the ham-
lets of Pardi , Fuorns (at the month of a torrent descending from
Piz Cristallina), and Ada (on the left bank), and (21/4 M.) • —
7 M. Perdatsch (5093'), at the month of the Val Cristallina.
The wild Yal Oristallina, noted for its cheese, contains several fine
waterfalls, particularly in the HSlUnsehhtnd (Val Ufiem). From the head
of the valley two easy passes, the Pfuso CristalUna (7887'), passing the Ltigo
Baedeker, Switzerland. i2th Edition. 5i3
354 Route 94. LUKMANIER.
Jtetico C78080> ^nd the U/iern Pass (8727>), between the dma Camadra and
the Cima Qarina^ lead to Olivone (see below). — The Piz OrietaUina (10,367';
iVshrs. -, good guide necessary) is ascended from Perdatsch by the Col
Cristallina (not to be confounded with the Passo Cristallina) without diffl-
Golty. Grand surrey of the Medel and Rheinwald Mts. Pig Uftetn (10,346';
5V3 hrs.) is more difficult. -> The Pis Xedel (10,510'; 6 hrs.) is best as-
cended from the Val Platias on the K. side; a night is spent on the Alp
Sura (p. 350), 2 hrs. from Curaglia; thence to the top 4 hrs. (trying).
Above Perdatsch the Rhine forces its way throngh the locks to
a lower part of the yalley. The road ascends by a long bend to
8t, Oion (S^OSQ, a group of hovels with a hospice , and traverses
a wild, rock-strewn valley, scantily overgrown with grass, willows,
and the Alpine rose. The hospice of 8t, Oall (5514') is passed on
tbe opposite bank. By the Alp Seheggia we cross to the left bank
and reach (5 M. from Perdatsch) the hospice of —
12 M. S.Maria (6043'; ^Inn), anciently called Sancta Maria
Hn loco magno\ whence perhaps the name of the pass.
To the E. of the hospice rises the Soopi (10,500' ; ' Tsehttpi\ summit,
or crown) , from the midst of glaciers ; steep stony aacent from the hos-
pice (4 hrs.), very fatiguing, but free from danger; extensive view. —
Less laborious is the ascent of *Fiz Sondadura (9905'), to the W., an ad-
mirable point of view (8Vs hrs.)*
From S. Maria to the Bdtel Piora (3 hrs. ; guide 10, horse 26 fr.) and
AirolOj see p. 101. — Over the Randadvra Pass to the Val If alps, p. 351.
The road now crosses for the last time the Mittelrhein, which
rises in several little lakes in the Val Cadlimo^ which opens on
the right, and ascends gradually to the (IV4 M.) the Lnkmanier
PasB (6290'). To the left rises the black, slaty summit of the 8copk\
on the right are the Piz dell' Uomoj Piz Bla8, Piz delV Vfiem, and
Piz Rondadura. We now descend, over beds of avalanches and
mud'Streama which have been precipitated ftom the bare, yellowish
slopes of the Piz Coroo on the left, and which frequently endanger
the road in wet weather, to the former (2 M.) hospice of Ceuaecia
(59780) prettily situated. To the £. towers the huge Rheinwaldkom
(p. 363).
A path leads hence over the Predelp Pass (8053') to (5 hrs.) Faidc
(p. 102). Another crosses the Passo Columbe (7792') between the Piz Scat
and the Piz Columbe to (SVz hrs.) RStel Piora (p. 101).
The road is level as far as the (i^/2 M.) Ztukmanier Inn (5580'),
at the beginning of the Piano di Segno, and then descends, high
above the Brenno, on the steep N. side of the Val 8. Maria, being
hewn at places in the perpendicular rock. Below lie the chalets
of Campra, with several groups of chalets. We descend by a long
curve to the left to (41/4 M.) the hospice of Camperio (4028'),
cross the Brenno, and skirt the wooded S. side of the valley,
soon obtaining fine views of the Val Bleg^o. Far below , among
walnut-trees , lie the villages of Somascona, Scona, and Olivone,
commanded by the conical Sosto (7087'). Descending another long
bend, we readi (3 M.) —
24 M. Olivone (2927' ; *H6t. OUvone, moderate), the highest
village in the ValBlegno, or PoUenzer'Thal, picturesquely situated.
BONABUZ. 96. RouU. 355
To the £. tower the abrupt spurs of the Rhelnwald range. To Vrin
by Ohironej see p. 350. No guides to be had at Olivone.
The road crosses the Brenno by a stone bridge, and descends on
its left bank to (2 M.) AquUa and to (8/4 M.) Dcmgio (2645'), beau-
tifully situated at the entrance to the Vdl 8ojd. Vines and mulber-
ries now appear, and the slopes are clothed with walnuts and chest-
nuts. Next villages (Y2 M.) Torre j (IV2 M.) Lottigna, and (1 M.)
Acqua^ossa (1739 Q, with a mineral spring. The valley contracts.
Then (1^2 M.) Dangio^ a long village (Inn, carriages) , and (1 M.)
Motto ^ where the road divides. The road to the left (on the left
bank of the Brenno) leads by Malvaglia; that to the right (shorter,
and shady in the a^emoon) goes by Ludiano and (2 M.) Semione,
The two roads re-unite at (21/2 M.) the bridge of Loderio (IISC).
The lower part of the valley is monotonous ; its broad floor is covered
with stony deposits, and the slopes are furrowed by torrents. After
crossing a mound of debris, the road descends to (1 Y4 M.) —
38 M. Biasca (p. 103) , where the Val Blegno unites with the
Riviera (Val Ticino). The station of the St. Gotthard Railway is
3/4 M. to the S. of the village. Post-offlce at the station.
95. From Coire to Spltigen. Via Mala.
Comp. Mapt p. 346.
32Y2 M. DiLiaEKCB twice daily to Spliigen in 7 lirs. (11 fr. 96, coupd
14fr. 60c0i to Colico in 1674 hrs. (26 fr.; coup^ 32 fr.); corresponding
with the early train from St. Gallen and Rorschach (see p. 327). From
Spliigen travellers go on at once by another diligence over the Bernardino
(p. 362). Those who wish to enjoy the scenery should secure a seat
affording a view, or take the diligence to Thusis only, and walk thence
to Andeer (8 M.) or to Spliigen (I6V2 M.). — Extba-Post with two horses
from Coire to Ghiavenna 150 fr. 10 c. , with three horses 208 fr. 60 c. —
Garbiaqb with one .horse from Coire to Thusis 15 , with two horses 30 fr. ;
to Splugen with two 65, with three 100 fr. ; to Chiavenna 135 or 185 fr.
From Coire to (6 M.) Beicheiiaa (1936'; *Adler) , see p. 346.
The road through the Vorder-Rheinthal to Disentis and Andermait
diverges here to the right (see R. 93). A covered wooden bridge
crosses the Vorder - Rhein above Reichenau, immediately before its
confluence with the Hinter-Rhein. In the vicinity are a large Saw^
mill and several workshops for cutting and polishing marble.
The fertile valley, called Domleschg, Domliasehf/a^ or Tomiliasca (the
W. side Heinsenherg^ Bomanie M<mtagna)^ through which the road to
Thusia leads on the left bank of the Hinter-Rhein, is 7 M. long and 2 M.
wide. The Rhine, which formerly occupied nearly tlie whole valley, is now
confined within due limits by large embankments. The sides of the valley
are remarkable for their fertility, while on the right bank numerous castles
peep down from almost every hill and rock.
The road ascends slightly to (1 M.) Bo&aduz (2146'; Post; Si-
morus ; higher up, *Degiacomi , higher up). To the left , on the
Rhine, the Chapel of St. George^ adorned with ancient frescos.
(New road to Uanz, see p. 346.) Then (8/4 M.) Sh&aunB (2126'),
on a rock rising from the Rhine, said by tradition to have been found-
23*
356 BouU96, THUSIS. From Coire
ed by tlie Etinscan Rh«Btas, with a handsome ch&teau ef the Yieli
family. Fine view of the mountains to the S., at the head of the
yalley (see below) ; behind ns rises the Calanda.
On the BiaHT Bank is the ruin of Niedet^Juvaibt ; farther on are the
chalybeate baths of Bothenbrnnnen ; above them the ruins o( Ober-JtmaUa;
then the ch&teanx of Ortenstein and PaspeU. We next observe the ruined
ohUTeh of iSV. LitrenM and the ch&teaux of Canova^ Riefberg, Jnrstenau^
£aldtfut«in (on the Albola), and Ekrwfeli , the la«t of which is below
Hohen-Rhaetien (p. 357).
We next reach (31/4 M.) RtaUa (2058' ; Inn), with the ruin of
NUdcf'Rtalta (not yisible from the road), and pass (I74 M.), on
the left, the large cantonal PrUon and Lunatic il«y£um. Beyond
(174 M.) Katzis (2185'; Kteuz) we pass a nunnery and school on
the right, and the venerable little church of SU Martin on the left.
Beautiful scenery. To the S. rises the snowy Fi% Curvlr (97600;
beyond this , to the left, is the Schyn Pass with the majestic Pist
8t. Michel {iOj'670') in the background; to the N. ike RingeUpUs
(10,6600 and the Trinserhom (99350- About 3/^ M. to the E. the
Albula falls into the Rhine; beyond it lies the pretty village of
Scharans. Near (2^2 M.) Thusis, on the slope, near the pleasant
village of Masein, stands the chateau of Nieder^Tag stein,
16 M. Thusis. — Hotels : ^HSt.-Pens. Via Mala, at the beginning
of the Via Mala, with garden, R., L. , A A. 5V«, B. IV2, D. 4-B fir., pens.
8-10, in spring and autumn 7-8 fr. ; *KdbeaC8 or Post, with baths , B.,
L., & A. 3fr. 30 c., M. 3V2, B. IVifr.j *Khaetia, E. & L. 3, D. 3V«, B.
IVifr. i Weissks Kbkuz, well spoken of; "'Gemsli, plain, moderate. —
Beer at the ^Felsenkeller^ on the Rosenbnhet^ to the right of the entrance
to the Via Mala, fine view. — One-Ttorse carr. to the third bridge of the
Via Mala and back, 2 pers. 6, 3 pers. 8 fr., (too-horse carr. 12 fr. ; to Andeer
11»|2, 14, or 22»|2 fr.; to Spliigen 22il2, or 30 fr.; to Schyn (Solis Bridge) 7,9,
or 14 fr.; to Tiefenkasten 13»|2, leijz, or 24»[2fr.; to Reichenau 11, 14, or
22 fr. ; to Ooiro 17 or 33 fr. Fees included in each case.
Thu8i8(2US'', 1126inhab.), Rom. Tuseun, beautifully situ-
ated at the foot of the Heinzenberg , and handsomely rebuilt since
a fire In 1845 , is well adapted for some stay and as a starting-
point for excursions.
Walks and Excbsions. To the 0 min.) Bosenlrilhel (see above); to
the Belvedere ((V4 hr.); to the Boval wood (V4 hr.); to the first weir in
the Nollathal (20 min.); to the (1 hr.) Crapteig, to the right above the
Via Mala; to the (3/4 hr.) Hohen-Rh&tien (see below; the two last-named
points command superb Tiews). Through the Sehlcsttoald to the Tanbensttm
and (40 min.) ScMote Tagstein (see above), with pleasure grounds. Past
(V4hr.) Rongellen to the (IVs hr.) MaieMiUe Aekuut (4086'), situated high
above the second bridge in the Via Mala. — On the Heinzenbei^ rises the
PrUzerhdhe (6965'), a fine point of view, ascended in 41/2 hrs. by Mastim^
Partein^ and Sam (3863'; Inn). — The Batterhom (8460*), 6-6 hra., toil-
some from this side (comp. p. 368).
Fbom Thusis to Tiefenkastsn (9 M.). The ^Schyn-Strasae, constructed
in 1868-69, leads on the 8. side of the Albula (diligence daily in 2 hrs., comp.
p. 366; carr. see above). It forms a central link in the network of roads exten-
ding over the Orisons, and the first half of it commands a series of grand and
picturesque views. Immediately above Thusis it crosses the KoUa and the
Rhine at the foot of the Hohen-Rhsetien, passes the ruin of £hre^fels on
the right, and beyond (V4 M.) Sila (2283'; Zwn Passmal)^ the small chateau
of BaldenHein on the left. We next ascend to Campi {Campo Bello, ruin
toSpUtffm. VIA MALA. 95. Route. 357
of the ancestral seat of the Campell family ; Ulrich Campell was a Blisetian
reformer and historian), picturesquely situated to the left, on the ravine
of the Albola, and the farm of (2 M.) Bunplanas. Pretty view hence of
the church of Soils. Then through the ancient forest of Versasea. By a
ravine we observe above us, to the right, a bridge of the old Mutten road,
and we pass the Freihof, an auberge on the left. The road is next
carried through the ^Pass-Mal\ which begins here, by means of galleries
of masonry and extensive cuttings and tunnels. (I1/2M.) Small inn. [About
V4 H. farther, by the chalets of Catabrien, a narrow road to the right ascends to
(41/2 M.) Unter-Mutten (4833'-, *'Inn, plain; closed in summer, when all the
inhabitants migrate to Ober-Mutten). Thence to (IV4 hr.) Ober-Mutten(Qi^'\
Hosang''s Inn), from which the Muttnerhoitt (8070')) ^ splendid point of
view, may be ascended in IV2 hr. : good path at first, then up grassy slopes.
Descent from Ober-Hutten to (2^2 hrs.) Zillis or to Thusis interesting, but
rather rough.] The bridge across the Muttner Tobel affords a fine view
of the gorge. (IV4 M.) Unter-SoliSy a hamlet with a spring containing iodine.
High above, to the left, lies ObervtUz (p. 968). Looking back near the last
tunnel, we obtain a fine survey of the Heinzenberg, and before us a view
of Alvaschein and the peaks of the Albula group. The' road now crosses
the profound ravine of the Albula by the *SolU Bridge^ aSC above the
foaming stream , and ascends in a curve (cut off by a path to the right
beyond the bridge) to the village of (2 M.) ▲Ivaacheiii (Augtutin). Oppo-
site, below the loftily situated StUrvis^ is a waterfall. Farther on, to the
right, below the road, is the church of MlUtail^ the oldest in the Albula
Yidley, formerly a burial-place. At UwUr-MiUtail there is an alkaline spring.
The road unites with the Julier route near (1V« M.) Tie/enkatten (p. 368).
Immediately above Thusis the turbid Nolla, a torrent which has
frequently devastated this district , falls into the Rhine.
The Lake of Liiach (6398% on the Heinzenberg (p. 366), above the
village of Tschappina (p. 346), has no visible outlet. Its water softens the
porous slate of its banks to the consistency of mud, and large masses of
the strata adjoining it periodically slide down to the l^oUa. Tschappina
itself is built in part on a shifting foundation, some of its buildings hav-
ing been ascertained to change their positions. — By Tschappina and over
the 6ias Patt to the Bc^fier-Thal (4 hrs. to Plats), see p. d46.
The vie-w ftom the Nolla bridge is striking. In the background
of the valley towers the barren Piz Beverin (9843'). The Rheinthal
appears to be entirely enclosed by lofty mountains. The right bank
of the gorge from which the Rhine issues is guarded hy the ruined
castle of Hohen-RhaeUenf or Hoeh-Realta (Hoeh-Ryalt), 807' above
the river, the most ancient in Switzerland, having been founded,
According to tradition, in B.C. 589, by the legendary hero Rhaetua,
leader of the Etruscans when retreating before the Gauls. Good
paths ascend to it in ^/4pir. from Thusis and Sils (see above). The
ruin Is on the S. side of the hill, which overlooks the whole of the
Domleschg; on the N. side is the dilapidated Church of 8t. John,
the oldest Christian church in the valley.
From 1470 to 1822 the route ascended the bank of the Nolla
through wood, and entered the gorge above RongeUen (see below).
The path through the gorge, the famous *Yia Mala, was then only
4' wide, and followed the left bank the whole way. In 1822 the
new road was constructed, and the old path through the gorge con-
siderably widened. The limestone-rocks rise almost perpendicularly
on both sides to a height of 1600'. At the Kdntelij near the
entrance, the retrospective view is very fine. A little farther on,
358 BouU95. ZILLIS. From Coire
1^4 M. from Thasis, the road passes through a half-open gallery,
with overhanging rocks, and then throngh the VerlomeLoch (2683'),
a tunnel 55 yds. long, penetrating the projecting rock. From a point
heyond the tunnel, where the side -wall ceases and the wooden
railings recommence, the boisterous river is visible at the bottom
of the profound gorge. The *View down the sombre defile, of the
solitary tower of Hohen - Rheetien , and the sonny slopes of the
Heinzenberg beyond, is very striking.
Near the (3/4 M.) post -station of the hamlet of RongeUen
(Pens. Via Mala), the gorge expands into a small basin, and
soon contracts again. The road crosses the river three times at short
intervals : ^/^ M. , first bridge , built in 1738 (refreshments at a
pavilion above); 1/4 M. * Second Bridge (2844'), built in, 1739
the grandest point. The Rhine, 160' below the road, winds through
so narrow a ravine that the precipices above almost meet. In Aug.,
1834, and Sept., 1868, the river rose to within a few feet of the
arch of the bridge. At the (1 M.) third bridge (2903'-, built in
1834) the Via Mala ends.
We now enter the SchamBer Thai, the green meadows and
cheerful dwellings of which contrast pleasantly with the gloomy Yia
Mala. In the background to the S. rises the pointed BirU (9373^.
The first village in the valley of Schams is (1 M.) —
2 M. Zillis, Rom. Ciraun (3060'; Post), with the oldest church
in the valley (nave and tower Romanesque; interesting celling-
paintings of the 12th cent.).
AsosNTS. *nx Bev«rin (9843'; 6-7 hra.; gtiide 7, horse to the Obrisi-
alp 12 fr.), a superb point of view, but trying. Bridie-patli by D<math
and MaUum to the (3V2-4 hrs.) OhrxBt Alp (7172'); thence to the top 21/2 hrs.
more. Or from Thusis direct, by QUu or by Saitta and VioiM^ in 7-8 hrs.
(guide 10 fr.). — Pi« Ourrer (9760 '; 6 hrs.-, 6 fr.), from ZUlis or Pignieu,
also interesting and for experts not difficult. The descent may be made
to the chapel of ZiUil and Sehteeininffen (p. 369).
On the hill to the right, on the left bank of the Rhine, above
the village of Donath, and overshadowed by the Pit Beverin, stands
the ruined castle of FardUnf or La Turr (3819'), once the seat of
the governors of the valley. About the middle of the 15th cent,
the brutality of one of these officials, like that of Gessler 150 years
earlier, is said to have given rise to the emancipation of this
district from their sway. Entering the cottage of a peasant whom
he disliked, the tyrant spat Into the boiling broth prepared for
dinner. The peasant, Jobann Gaidar, seized him by the throat,
plunged his head into the scalding liquid, exclaiming, ^Malgia sex
U puU cha U has eondiW ('Eat the soup thou hast seasoned*), and
strangled him. This was the signal for a general rising.
Near the Baths of Pignieu (the waters of which , containing
iron and alkali, are conducted to Andeer, and there used for baths),
which have been successively destroyed by inundation and by fire,
the Rgnieu descending from the Piz Curvdr (see above) is crossed
by a bridge, the last completed on this route, and bearing the in-
to Splugen. ANDEER. 95. Route. 359
Bcription on the E. parapet: ^Jam via patet hostihua et amieis.
Cavete, Ehaetif simplicitas morum et unio servahunt avitam li-
hertatem\ On the left bank of the Rhine are the village of Clugin
and the square tower of the ruin of Cagliatscha. Then (2^/2 M.) —
231/2 M. Andeer(3212'; pop. 603,- *Kr(met or Hotel Fravi, with
baths), the principal village in the valley. Fine view from the
loftily situated church (erected in 1673).
Ascents. Piz Vizan (SllCHi 4V2 brs. ; with guide), by the Burgitu
Alp ; splendid view. — Piz la Tschera (Sols' ; 5 hrs.), by Alp Albin, also
interesting. — Fig Beverin and Piz Cut*vir, see above.
Fbou Ain>EES TO Stalla (11 hrs.; guide unnecessary), an attractive walk.
The path quits the Splugen road 2 H. above Andeer and enters the wild
*Ferrera Valley to the left, leading first on the left, and then on the right
bank of the Averser-Bhein, which forms several fine waterfalls. On the left
Piz Griach (10,0(X)'), on the right the Surettahom (9926')- We pass(40min.)
a deserted silver-foundry and reach (V2 hr.) Ausser-Ferrera (4334'; Inn),
where the valley expands slightly. (Over the Fianell Ptus to Behu>€ininffenj
see p. 869.) We then follow the right bank to (iVa br.) Inner-Ferreray or
CanicUl (4^'; rustic inn), at the mouth of the Val d^Emet (see below).
Descending hence, we cross the Rhine and ascend its steep left bank
(20 min.). The path skirts the slope, passing through wood-, after 25 min.
it rounds a projecting rock (view of the Snrettahorn, etc., behind us), and
then again descends to the river, which is augmented here by the torrent*
from the Val Starlera on the left and the Valle di Lei on the right. The
narrow path crosses (25 min.) the latter. (By the bridge is the frontier-
atone of Italy, to which the Val di Lei belongs.) The path ascends
rapidly, and then immediately descends. Near (1 hr.) Campzut (5500') it
crosses the Rhine, and beyond (1/4 hr.) Grot, another poor village, recrosses
it. Beyond the bridge (view, to the right, of the MadiH* Vallep, with the
Piz OalUffione and the Cima di Lago at its head) the path ascends steep
pastures to the left, and at the top of the hill traverses a beautiful wood
of stone-pines. It ^en descends, crosses another bridge, and ascends to
(1 hr.) Orezta (8397'; bed at the curb's; inn very poor), the principal vil-
lage in the Averser Thai, which expands here and is carpeted with beau-
timl pastures. This is one of the highest inhabited valleys among the
Alps, and lies in a pleasant, sunny situation. To the 17. rises the Weiss-
berg (9990').
The path then ascends slightly, passing the handsome house of the
Podestat^ or chief magistrate, and the mouth of the Val Bregalga, which is
enclosed by fine glaciers, to (IVahr.) Ju/ (6685'); then to the left across
pastures and through a desolate rock-strewn valley to the (iVa hr.) pass
of the Stallerberg (8478'; beautiful view of the Julier Mts., etc.). The path,
quite distinct, now descends, keeping to the left, to 02 hrs.) Stalla (p. 369).
— From Juf through" the Val Paller to MUhlen^ see p. 369.
A path leads from Juf to the S.E. over the Foroellina (8770') direct
to the Septimer (p. 370 ; guide advisable, from Cresta 8-10 fr.) : from Juf to
the pass, with limited view, 2 hrs.; Septimer 1 hr. [From the Septimer we
may again ascend and cross the Fuorda di Lunghino (8645') direct to the
Haloja (p. 874). From the Forcellina Pass we may ascend a peak known
in the Averser Thai as the Forcellina (9918'; admirable view) in IV2 hr., and
descend to the S. into the Vai Tttrba. We then reach the Septimer route
20 min. below the pass, by the second bridge over the Septimerbacli
(p. 370).] — From Cresta through the Val Bregalga and across the Pauo
dellaDnana^iST'; with guide) to Soglio inthe Val Bregaglia (p. 371), 7-8 hrs.,
interesting. The pass, between Pizzo Uardo (9534*) and IHzzo delta Duana
(p. 372), afibrda a fine view of the Bregaglia Mts.
Fbom CAJsncfsL TO PiANAZZO On the Splugen route (4y2 hrs.; with guide).
The path ascends steeply on the right side of the Val d'JSmety through
wood, to the (iVihr.) Alp Emei (6194'), whence the cairn on the -pass is
yiaible; then over the soft and uneven soil of the Alp to the^top in 1 hr.
360 Soute95. SPLtJOmf,
more. BetroapectiTe view of the Piz Beverin; and the OaUnda afterwards
cornea in sight. From the Fa«M> Kadeuiae (TiSiy^ frontier of Switierland
and Italy) the Tambohom (10J48') is seen to the W., and the Oima di Lago
(9682') and Pis Oallegione (10,2860 to the S.E. We descend past the K.
side of the pretty Lag0 di'Emtt^ on the left bank of the MadeM/tmo^ then
across meadows, to the huts of Al Ttcckio and (IVs hr.) Mmdesitno (p. 361).
We now cross the stream (new road, p. 861) and soon reach the Spliigen
route V' ^' helow Pianazto (p. 361).
The Spliigen load winds upwards, passes the scanty ruins of the
Barenburgj and enters the wooded *Ropna Rayikb, in which the
Rhine forms a series of waterfallfl. Near the entrance (2^4 M. from
Andeer) the road crosses the Averaer-Rhein (auberge) , which here
issues from the Val Ftrrera and forms a fine waterfall a little way
up the valley. (To the Fertera Valley and Stalla, see above.)
Towards the end of the gorge (jt^/2 M.), we pass an old bridge
over the Rhine on the right. The valley expands. The road crosses
(3/4 M.) a torrent which drains the Suretta^Thal on the left. In the
vicinity are the ruins of the Sufncr Foundry ; on the right rises the
Kcdkberg (see below). We next (72^0 P'^s^ through a rocky gateway
(Sassa Plana », 4390'), pass the (8/4 M.) village of Sufers (4673') on
the left bank of the Rhine, enter a wooded ravine, and cross (I1/4M.)
the wUd stream in its profound gorge by a bold bridge (4/27').
After a short ascent we obtain a survey of the broad Vol Rhem
(Rheinwaldthal) i on the right the barren JTaUtftery (9763'); oppo-
site, the J^tTM^m (96500; to the left of Splugen, adjoining the
OuggemuU (9472'), is the Tambohom (10,7480. Then (1 M.) —
321/2 M. Bplftgen (4757'; pop. 484; *JS6i. Bodenhaua, B., L.,
& A. 4V2, D. 4-5 fr. ; H6t Spliigen'), the capital of the Rheinwald-
thal, enlivened by the trafflc on the Splugen and Bernardino routes.
A pleasant walk leada to the ruined castle on the old road, which
commands a pretty view down the valley and of the Tambohom.
ExcuBsiOMs. (Guide /. y. Trepp and others.) The Guggernilll (9472';
41/2 brs. ■, guide 6 fr.), by the Tambo Alp. and the Einshorn (SHSSO*; 1-5 hrs. ;
8 fr.), from Nufenen, two fine points, without difficulty. — ThePiz Tambo
iTamboTiorn or Schneehom, 10,748'; 14 fr.), ascended from the Splugen Pass in
hrs., is fatiguing, but for experts free from danger. Most extensive view,
K. to Swabia, and S. to Milan, whence the Fiz is visible.
Excursion to the Source of the Binterrhein^ p. 363. — Over the Ldckli-
berg to the Safier-Thal, see p. 346.
96. From Splugen to the Lake of Como.
4i>/3 M. DiLiOENCB twice daily to Chiavenna (10 fr. 6 c, coup^ 12 fr. 5 c.)
in 6 hrs. ; ffom Chiavenna to Colico Bailwat in 1 hr., corresponding with
ttie steamb ats to Como. Finest views to the right.
The rOad divides at the village of Splugen (see above). The
Bernardino route leads straight on (p. 362) , while the Spi.€6bn
Road, which was constructed by the Austrian government in
1819-21, crosses the Rhine to the left by an iron bridge, ascends
in windings (avoided by short-cuts), and farther up passes through
a tunnel 93 yds. long. Behind us, above Splflgen, rises the bare
CAMPO DOLCINO. 96. Route. 361
KdUtberg (see above). The road crosses the Hauserribach twice in a
bleak yalley, and then ascends on the W. slope in numberless zig-
zags, past the lonely Berghaus (66779, and through a long gallery
of masonry, to the (6^/4 M.) Splngen Pass (^Colmo delV Orso,
6946'), between the Tambohom (10,748' ; see above) on the right,
and the Surettahom (8925') on the left, the boundary between
Switzerland and Italy.
Beyond the pass and the first Cantoniera, we reach (8/4 M.) the
]>0£^ana (6247'), or Italian custom-house, a group of houses with
a poor inn at the head of a bleak valley enclosed with high moun-
tains. In winter the snow here sometimes reaches to the windows of
the upper story. During snow-storms, bells are rung in the four
highest houses of refuge as a guide to travellers. A guide-post at
the third refuge indicates the route, to the left, to (1 hr.) Made-
simo (see below).
The old bridle-path turned to the right by the second wooden
bridge, and led through the CardmeU gorge direct to Isola, a route
much exposed to avalanches. In traversing this ravine in Dec. 1800
the French under Gen. Macdonald sustained severe losses, whole
columns being precipitated into the abyss. The new road descends
the E. slope in numerous zigzags, being protected at places against
avalanches by long galleries of solid masonry (first 249 yds. long, se-
cond 228, third 550 yds.), with sloping roofs to enable the snow to
slide off, and openings at the sides for light.
On quitting the second gallery, we obtain a fine view of
the old road, which wae destroyed by an inundation in 1834, and
the village of Isola. At the end of the third gallery is a co-
pious spring. The new road avoids the dangerous Liro Gorge be-
tween Isola and Campo Dolcino. Beyond Pianazzo (Iniij dear), and
near the entrance to a short tunnel, the copious Madeaimo falls into
the valley from a rock 650' high. This beautiful ♦Waterfall is best
viewed from a small platform by the road, where the conductor stops
the diligence.
From Pianazzo a road aaceads to (IV4 M.) Hadeaimo (49200, a pret-
tily situated village with a chalybeate spring and a new hydjopathic,
*Kvrhaui (pens. 8Vs f'Oi recommended as a health-resort. — To Canicill
over the Passo di Madesimo^ see p. 360.
The part of the road which we now enter upon Is the boldest in
point of construction, with numerous tunnels, and terraces rising
perpendicularly one above the other. At one of the turns is an in-
scription in honour of the emperor Ferdinand I., in whose reign the
road was made (1834). Immediately beyond a beautiful view is
obtained from below of the fall of the Madesimo.
17 m. Campo Dolcino (3457' ; Croce d^Oro; Posta or Corona^
well spoken of) consists of four groups of houses ; the second con-
tains the church and the *campo santo* or burial-ground. A Latin
inscription on the rock, a little farther on, is in honour of the Emp.
>ancis, who made this road from ^Clavenna ad Bhenum\
362 BouU96. CHJAYENNA.
The Liro Valley ^ oi VaUe 8. Oiacomo^ is strewn with fragments
of rock, chiefly of brittle white gneiss, which reddens on exposure
to the air. The wildness of the scene is somewhat softened by the
rich foliage of the chestnuts Yisible lower down, from among which
rises the slender white campanile of the church of QaUivtiggio.
Near 8. Oiacomo are whole forests of chestnuts, which extend far
up the steep slopes. We soon reach the vineyards of Chiaveniia,
where the luxuriance of Italian vegetation is fully displayed.
25 M. Chiavenaa (1090^ pop. 3800; *H6tel Conradi, R., L.,
& A. 372> ^' ^^2 ^'1 ^y ^^ post-offlce, carriages ; *Re8taur, Chiavt
d'OrOy with beds, on the Promenade), the CUxoenna of the Romans,
an ancient town, is charmingly situated on the Mera, at the
mouth of the Yal Bregaglia (see below). Opposite the post-office are
the ruins of an unfinished chateau of De Salis, the last governor
appointed by the Grisons. Picturesque view from the ^paradisd'
or garden of the ruin (fee V2 ^'0* ^* LorensOy the principal church,
has an elegant detached campanile or clock-tower, rising from an
arcaded enclosure which was formerly the burial-ground. The octa-
gonal baptistery contains a very ancient font with reliefs.
The RauiWAT to Colico at first traverses vineyards. Farther on, the
ravages of the Liro, which falls into the Mera below Chiavenna,
and of the Mera itself, become apparent. The greater part of the
valley (Piano di Chiavennajj which is enclosed by lofty mountains,
is exposed to these inundations. — 5 M. 8amolaco is the station for
the large village of that name on the opposite (right) bank of the
Mera. Before (8V2 M.) Novate, the railway reaches the N. bay of
the Laffo di Riva, or di Mezxola, also encircled with mountains.
This lake was originally the N. bay of the Lake of Como, from
which it has been almost separated by the deposits of the Adda ;
but the shallow channel which connects the lakes has again been
rendered navigable. The railway , supported by masonry and pro-
tected by galleries at places, skirts the E. bank of the lake, and
crosses the Adda beyond (22V2 ^0 I>ubino. The YaltelUna railway
(p. 398) joins ours from the left ; we observe on a hill to the right
the ruined castle of Fuentes^ once the key of the Yaltellina, erected
by the Spaniards in 1603, and destroyed by the French in 1796.
I6V2M. CoUoo (722'; hola BeUa; Angela; H6t. Bifif Ristora-
tore delta Posta, on the lake), at the N. end of Lake Como (p. 428).
97. From SpliLgen to Bellinzona. Bernardino.
Comp Mapy p. 360.
hS!i^l% H. DiugeHcb daily (between S. Bernardino and Bellinzona twice
daily) in 81/4, returning in 11 hrs. (15 fr. 15, coup^ 18 fr. 86 c). Extra-Post
with two horses from Coire to Bellinzona 191 fr. 70 c, with three 260 fr.
8plugen (4757^, see p. 360. We traverse the upper Val Rhein,
passing below (1 M.) Medels (50300. On the left bank, 8/^ m.
farther on, lies the pasture of Ebi^ now partly covered with dtfbris,
HINTERRHEIN. 97. BotUe. 363
where the 'LandBgemeinde' used to assemMe biennially on the first
Sunday in May. Then (2 M.) Nufenen (51440, at the mouth of
the Areue-Thal, at the head of which appears the Curciusa Glacier,
On the left are the huge rocky Ouggemull (p. 360), concealing the
Tambohom (p. 360), and the Einahom (9650'). Near (21/4 M.) —
6 M. Hinterrhein (5302'; *Po8t, plain), the highest village in
the valley, the Rheinwald Mts., the Marscholhorn, Rheinquellhorn,
Rheinwaldhorn, Hochberghom, and Kirchalphom come in sight.
BouTce of the Hinter-Bhtts. From Hinterrhein to the Zapporthiitte
2V4 hrs., thence to the clab-hut >/« hr., rough, and hardly repaying (guide
advisable, 6 fr. ; O. Trepp, Joh. Lores). The path, damaged annually
by inundations and landslips, diverges to the right from the Bernar-
dino road, beyond the Rhine bridge (see below), and at first traverses the
level floor of the valley. After V« 1^'- tbe valley narrows. The path loses
itself in a stony chaos on the right slope of the valley, while the steep
N. side is partly covered with poor pastures. The wild infant Bhine
is in many places covered with avalanche-snow which lies here the
whole year. By one of these snow-bridges we cross to the left bank,
where a narrow path, kept in order by the shepherds in summer, leads
to the (l*/4 br.) Zapporthiitte (64200, occupied in July and August by the
Bergamasque shepherds, who pasture their flocks on the sunny Zapport-
alp. The route to the club-hut (8/4 hr.) next passes the Hdlle, a wild
cliff on the right bank, at the foot of which the Bhine forms a small
fall ; and on the same bank higher up is a poor rock-strewn Alpine pasture,
called by way of antithesis the Parodies. The Zapport Club JJut (7613*),
with room for 10-12 persons, is also occupied in summer by the shepherds.
The narrow valley is terminated by the Bheinwald Qlacier, the lower
part of wbich is called tbe Faradies Olader. The Hinter-Bhein issues
from an aperture in the glacier (7270'}, in shape resembling a cow's mouth,
immediately below the chalet. This chief source of the river (Sprung or
Ursprvng) is soon augmented by numerous small tributaries from crevasses
of the glacier. From the club«hut we may ascend the Bheinwald Glacier
in order to survey the vast Adula , or Rheinwald Mts. : the Zapporthom
(10,3320, Rheinauemom (10,500*), Vogelherg (10,5650, Rheinwaldhorn {Xi,i^'\
OH/ei'hom (11,1920, etc. — The Bheinwaldhom (Piz ValHie^^ or Adulahom)
may be ascended from the club-hut in 7 hrs. (very trying, but free from
danger with a good guide). The Vogelherg and the Rheinquellhom^ each
5 hrs. from the club-hut, are easier. The Zapporihom^ from the Bernar-
.dino Pass (see below) 4 hrs., difficult.
From Hinterrhein over the Yalser Berg to the Lugnetzthal and Ilanz,
see p. 348 \ over the Zappoi'tgrat or the Lenta-Inlcke to Zervreila, p. 348.
Trying passes (Vogeljoch, %W\ Pasto del Cadabbi, 9680'; Zapport Patty
10,1390 lead to the S. from the Bheinwald and Zapport glaciers to Malva-
glia (p. 355).
The Bbbnasdino Road crosses the Rhine hy a bridge (5301')
of three arches , 1/2 M- heyond Hinterrhein, and ascends the steep
hush-clad slope in windings. (A good short-cut diverges to the
right from the second winding.) Looking hack, we have a fine
view of the Rhine Valley and the Kirchalphom, Lorenzhom,
Schwarzhom, and Hochherghorn, which bound it on the north. On
the left, before (21/2 M.) we cross the Maaek-Bi^ch (5680'), is the
solitary Durrenbukthutte. Traversing a bleak valley, and passing
the Thali'Alp on the left, we reach the (3 M.) S. Bernardino PaB8
(6768'; Inn, poor), at the N. end of the little Lago Moesola, from
which three rocks project. This pass was known to the Romans, and
down to the 15th cent, it was called the Vogelherg, When St. Bernar-
364 SouU97, S. BERNARDINO. From Splugen
dino of Siena preached tbe gospel liere at that period, a ohapel was
erected on the S. slope of the mountain, and the pass has since
been named after him. On the left rise the Piaso Veeello (8911') and
MUtagham (8560') ; on the right the Maraeholhom (or Pi% Moeaola ;
9521'). Magniflcent view from a large white boulder, 3/4 hr. above
the hotel to the N.W. (guide nnnecessary).
We descend in nnmerous windings on the left bank of the
Moestty which issues from the lake, and pass a Oantoniera. On the
W. rises the Zapporthom (10,3320 ^^^ ^^^ Stabbio-Otat (8996^,
from which the Muccia Olaeier descends. To the E. are the Piz
Lumbreda (9768'), PizMuiun (9360'), and Pis Cwanua (9423').
Lower down, we cross the Moesa by a handsome bridge, and
descend in a wide bend to (5 M.) —
17 M. 8. Bernardino (5335'; *H6t Rctvizta, *mt. Broeeo, pen-
sion at both 71/2-972 ^^"t K- extra; Atbergo Menghetti)^ the highest
village in the Vol Meaoceo or AfMoIcina, with a mineral spring which
attracts many invalids in summer. The valley, especially the lower
part, contrasts strongly with the Rheinwaldthal in language, culture,
and climate. Everything here is Italian , and the inhabitants are
Roman Catholics, Cardinal Borromeo (p. 420) having successfully
crushed the germs of the Reformation. — Over the Paasetti Pasa to
the Val Codanea, see below.
To the N., above the Bernardino Pass, towers the sharp tooth
of the Piz Vccello (see above). The road ascends a little, and then
descends in numerous zigzags (which footpaths cut off). A fine fall
of the Moesa, in the gorge to the right, is only well seen if we
follow the path leading from S. Bernardino to S. Giacomo, first on
the left, and then on the right bank of the stream. At (41/2 M.) 8.
G'lacomo (3760'; Alb. Toscano) the road crosses the MoSsa (pleasing
view), and then descends rapidly to (4 M.) —
25V2M. Hesocco, or Crtmeo (2559' ; Posia^ well spoken of; H6t,
Toscaniy dirty), where walnut-trees, chestnuts, vines , and fields of
maize proclaim the Italian climate. On a rocky height to the left of
the road, 1/2 M. below the village , rises the grand ruined castle of
Mesoeco (or Misox)^ with its four towers, which was destroyed by
natives of the Orisons in 1526. From the slopes descend numerous
brooks, and between Mesoeco and Lostallo there are eight water-
falls, some them of considerable. Beyond (1^2 M.) Soazsa (2067')
we reach the bottom of the valley. Near the second bridge below
Soazza the Buffalora forms a fine cascade on the right. Then
(2V2 M.) Cahhiolo (14760; (1 M.) LoataUn (1562'), with exten-
sive vineyards, aid (4^2 M,) —
3572 M. Cama (1260') , where by the Capuchin monastery, the
first fig-trees are seen.
Fbom Cama to Ghiavknna a fatiguing, but interesting route (9-10 hrs.,
with guide) ascends the steep Val di Cama^ containing the lake of that
name (4058'), crosses the Booch«tta di Yal Oama (6780^), and descends
to Bellin%ona. BOYEBEDO. 97. Boute, 365
through tbe Val Bodengo, — A somewhat easier, but lesa interesting path
crosses the Fasso della Foroola (7270') from Soazza (see above) to Chia-
venna (8V2-9 hrs.i with gnide).
Then (8/4 M.) Ltggia (11250 ^^^ (^% M.) Orono (1000'; *H6tel
C<Uancaica)y a thriymg village at the mouth of the Val Calanea,
with the Floreniina tower, and near it a chapel with old frescoes.
The picturesque Val Oalanca is traversed by a road, first on the left,
then on the right bank of the Calanecuea. leading by Molina^ Arvigo, 8.
DoTnenicOy and Augio to (10 M.) Rossa (3570'; Inn), the chief village in
the valley. (Toilsome route hence to the W., over the OivmeUa PasSy 6955',
to MalvagUa in the Val BlegnOy p. 365.) Bridle-path hence to (1 hr.) Val-
hella (43^'), the highest hamlet in the valley, from which an easy route
to the £. crosses the Pu»$o di TrtiCfUmine (7064') to (5 hrs.) Mesoeco;
then (1 hr.) Alp Alogna (4695'), whence we may cross the Ptuio di Passetti
(68060 to the E. to S. Bernardino (p. 364) 4-5 hrs. (guide). At the head
of the Yal Oalanca, but difficult of access thence, lies the grand moun-
tain-ba0in of the StabMo Alps (65g(y), which may be reached in 4-5 hrs.
from S. Bernardino by crossing th Passo Tre Uomini (8704').
39 M. Boveredo (974'; pop. 1025; ^Angtlo; Croce)^ the capital
of the lower Val Mesoeco, with the ruined castle of the once power-
ful Trivulzio family.
8. Vittore (882') is the last village of the Grisons, Lumino the
first in Canton Ticino. The Bernardino route passes CasHone, on
the right, a station on the St. Gotthard Bailway (p. 103), joins the
St. Gotthard road, and crosses the Moesa. Below the confluence of
the Moesa and the Ticino lies Arbedo (813'), a village of sad
memory in Swiss history. On 30th July, 1422, a battle took place
here between 3000 Swiss and 24,000 Milanese, in which 2000 of
the former fell. They were interred beneath several mounds of
earth near the church of St. Paul, which is called Chiesa Roasa
from its red colour.
4572 ^- BelUniona, see p. 103.
88, From Coire to Samaden over the Albola Pass.
Comp. Jfapy p. 388,
45 M. DiLiOEMOE daily in summer in 12V8 hrs. (18 fr. 15 c, coup^ 21 fr.
80 c.) \ to Bergun, where passengers dine^ in 7 hrs. \ from Bergiin to Ponte
4 hrs. — ExTBA-PosT and pair from Goire to Samaden 183 fr. 50 c., or by
the Schyn and Albula nasses 149 fr. 60 c.; to St. Moritz 144 fr. 70 or 160 fr.
80 c; to Ponfresina 143 fr. 30 or 159 fr. 40c.$ to Maloja Kursaal 155 fr.
70 c. or 169 fir. — Carr. and pair from Coire to Bergun 70 , over the Al-
bula Pass to Samaden 120, Pontresina or St. Moritz 110, Tarasp 170 fr.
(via Schyn and Albula 80, 110. 120, or 180 fr.). — A most interesting
route ; fine mountain-scenery. The pass itself is a wild rocky chaos.
From Coire to (1472 M.) Leni, see p. 368. The Albula road
diverges here to the left from the Julier road, passes (2 M.) Brient
(p. 343; a direct path to Surava and Bad Alvaneu diverges to the
Tight at the last house of Brienz, then turns twice to the left at in-
tervals of 5 min.), and below tiie mined chateau of Belforty and
descends the Crapaneira Ravme in long windings to (31/2 M.) Bad
Alyanen (31160 *» *h« Albulathal, with sulphur-springs of local
repute (R., L., & A. 3-5, D. 31/2, pension 7V2-II fr. ; one-horse
366 Boute 98. BERGUN.
can. to Beigiin 9, Wiesen 8 , Tiefenkasten 41/2 fir.)* ^ ^® op*
posite l)ank of the Albula is a picturesque waterfall.
The Fis St. Michel (10^(y ; 6-7 hrs.; with guide) may be ascended by
experts without much difficulty from Baud Alvaneu through the ScJu^fihal.
View of striking grandeur. — In the Val Bpadlattefia^ 4 hrs. above Bad
Alvaneu or Filisur, and 3 hra. from. Betgan (see below), is the A4la€fhib
But (70&4'), from which the Tinaenhorn (10,278') may be ascended in
4 hrs., and the Piz d'Aela (10,894') in 4Vs-5 hrs. (both difficult and requir-
ing experience). Difficult descent from the Tinzenhom on the steep W. side
to the Tingenthor Pau (p. 369) and by the Tigial Alp to Tineen (p. 369).
— P. Mettier of Filisur is a good guide.
Above AlTaneu (1 M.) the road crosses the Ztandwcusery which
falls Into the Albula here, and ascends to the right to (1 M.)
Filianr (3410'; ^H6t. Schonihat)^ a pleasant village, commanded
by the scanty ruins of Qreifemtein (3985'). We then descend to
the Albula y cross it by a covered wooden bridge, and gradually
ascend the thickly wooded valley to (2 M.) BtUaluna (3553') , a
disused iron-foundry, now a saw-mill (Inn, with a few beds), where
we again cross the stream. "We ascend in a curve, which the old
path following the telegraph-wires cuts off, and enter the (ly^ M.)
*Berguner Steixi) a profound gorge with perpendicular sides. For 800
paces the road, constructed in 1696, and originally 4-6' wide, is
hewn through the solid rock, being protected at places by a wall. The
brawling stream at the bottom of the gorge is visible at one point
only. At the end of the gorge, on the right, tower the Tinzerihom
(10,278') and the Piz d'Aela (10,894'), and we enter the green
basin, enclosed by wooded hills, of (l*/2 M.) —
27 M. Bergun, Roman. Bravoign (4557'; pop. 426; H6t, Pit
Aela or Post^ D. 3, fr. ; Kreu%; Sonne) j a thriving village, with a
handsome prison-tower , an old Romanesque church, and a mineral
spring lately discovered (bath-house).
Above Bergiin, to the If.E., is the village of Latsch (5276 ')i on the
slope of the Laischer Kulm (or Cuolm da Latsch ; ascent rep^ing, IVx hr.).
— Over the Sertig Pass to Davos, see p. 841. — Over the Fnorela Piaeha
(9193') to Madulein, fatiguing, 9-10 hrs., with guide, through the Val Tuors
and the Val Plazbi. From the pass, between Pis Eesch and Piz Blaisun,
We may ascend the Piz Ketch (11,228') in 2 hrs. (but better from the Alp
Chiaclavuof, p. 341, over the Porchdbella Glacier in 5 hrs.; comp. p. 388).
— Piz d^Aela and Tinzenhorn. see above. (The Aila Hut is reached from
Bergiin by the Alp Uglix in 3 hrs.). — Over the Aela Pass, between Piz
d'Aela and Piz Vallugn, to the Val d'Err and Tinzen (p. 309), 4 hrs. ^uide),
interesting and not difficult.
We now ascend the beautifully wooded valley, passing the Vol
Tisch on the left. The Albula forms several small waterfalls and
one of some size above the (31/2 M.) Alpine hamlet of Na% (5725*).
On the bold pinnacles to the right (Pit d^AeUij Pis VaUugn , Piz
Salterns) are seen patches of snow at places. The road ascends in
long windings, past the chalets of Preda and PalpuognOy and on
the right, below the road, the pale-green Lake of Palpuogna , to
the (23/4 M.) Inn on the WeiBsengtein, Roman.Orop Alv (6660'). It
next describes a wide curve at the base of the two rocky horns of
the Oiumels (9137'; short-cut on the right side of the vaUey),
CHURWALDEN. 99. Route. 367
avoiding a marshy basin in which the Alhnla rises, and ascends the
rock-strewn TeufeUthal to the (21/4 M.) Albula Pass (7595'; poor
hospice), a marshy plateau, 3/4 M. long, lying between the summits
of the Albulastock, the Crasta Mora (BBSBQ on the right, consisting
of granite, and the Fiz Vertschy or AU>ulahom (10,738'), on the left,
being limestone.
The road now descends a dreary valley sprinkled with chalets.
Before us rises the Piz Mezzem, a fine pyramid ; adjoining it on the
right, at the head of the Yal Ghamuera, are the Piz Lavirum and Piz
Cotschen ; farther to the right are the Piz Muraigl and Piz Languard.
In descending the seven long bends of the road we also obtain fine
views of the Piz Quatervals and Piz delDiavel, and afterwards of
Ponte and Camogasc, with Madulein and Ghiardavall on the hill to
the left. Traversing a larch-wood we at length reach (5 M.) —
41 M. Ponte (5548'). Thence to Samaden^ see p. 388; to
8chuls and Nauders^ see B. 103.
99. From Coire to Samaden over the Jalier.
Comp. Maps, pp. 388^ 360^ 374,
51 M. by ChuTwalden , 59 M. by the Scbyn. Diligence in sum-
mer daily by Churwalden in 13V4 hrs. (20 fr. 75, conp^ 24 fr. 90 c.)^ daily
by the Schyn in 141/4 hra. (22 fr. 75, coup^ 27 fp. 50 c). — Bxtba-Post and
pair from Ooire to Samaden 145 fr. 10 c. (or by the Schyn and Jalier,
160 fr. 40 c). — Carr, and pair from Coire to St. Moritz over the Julier
120, to Pontrcsina or Samaden 110 fr. (by the Schyn and Julier 110 or 120 fr.).
Coire (1936'), p. 333. By the Steinbock Hotel the road crosses
the Plessur and ascends in windings (several short-cuts), with fine
views of the town , the Rhine Yalley, and the Galanda. To the E.
opens the Schanftgg (p. 343), watered by the Plessur in its deep
channel. A finger-post 1^4 M. from Coire indicates the route to the
left to the Bad Paasugg (p. 336), and another, ^/^ M. farther, the
way to the KdnzU (p. 335). We ascend the valley of the Rahiusa^
which falls into the Plessur far below, near a large factory, and then
pass ilfa{ta;(3800'j with a mineral spring) and the ruin of Strassberg .
6 M. Camrwalden (3976'; *Krone; ^Hdt, Oengel, R. & A. 21/2
fif. ; *H6t,'Pen8, Mettier ^ Sehweizerhaus ; Pens. Hemmi, *Botk-
hom, Kreuz), a health and whey-cure resort, with an old church and
the former monastery of Ascheroy lies picturesquely in a narrow valley.
The road ascends more rapidly, while a pleasant path through
wood runs parallel with it, crossing the Rabiusa twice, and then
crossing pastures, to —
8 M. Parpan (4956'; *Kurhau8 ^ Post, R., L., & A. 31/2 &•;
H6t. Stdtzerhom, pension 4-7 fr.), a pleasant Alpine village in an
open situation. The ancestral mansion of the Buol family, built at
the end of the 16th cent., contains rooms in the mediseval style and
old family-portraits.
Pleasant walk to the (1^/4 hr.) Churer Joch (6686'), at the foot of the
€fUrgalet$rh: view of Coire, the Rheinthal as far as the Sentis, etc.
368 BauU 99. TIEFENKASTBN. From Cowe
The *8MtMr Horn {PiMBmt^m, 8458'; 8 hrs., without guide), a farovite
point of view, the highest peak of the range hetween the valley of Chur-
walden and the Domleschg (see p. 366), is ascended from Parpan by the S.
A. 0/8 new bridle-path. Beyond the hamlet of Sarlmu straight on, avoi-
ding the path to the rigi^t. Inn closed and falling to decay. Qrand pano-
rama of the valleys of Schanflgg, Ghurwalden, Oberhalbstein , Schams,
Domleschg, and the Vorder-Rhein as fkr as Ilanz ; of the entire Rhsetikon
Chain, Calanda, Todi, St. Gotthard, Pis Beverin, Bheinwald Glacier,
Tambohom, Bemina, Albnla, etc. (Panorama by A. Heim). Beaatifiil
pastures and rare plants on the slopes. The descent on the Domleschg side
is longer, and the last part is fatiguing, but cannot be mistaken \ this route
leadf by the Alps of RoiciM and ScktUl to the chalets of Ahnent, and
then to the left to Scharatu and Thusis in the Bheinthal (4 hrs. in all).
Mountaineers may also descend by Ohervatz to the Solis Bridge (p. 367).
From Parpan to Arosa., see p. 844.
We soon reach the top of the hill (5090') and obtain a line view
of the Oberhalbstein Mts., those above the Schyn Pass on the right,
the beautif ol Lenzer Horn (9548^) on the left , with the adjoining
Piz 8t. Michel (lO^STO'), and in the opposite direction the Calanda
(p. 335). We descend to ValbeUaj pass several tarns and the Heid-
see (4898') , surrounded by forest (• Chalet-Restaurant on an is-
land, pens. 4-5 fr.), cross the wooded LinserHeide, Bom. Pianeira,
a region justly dreaded during snow-storms, to the (^s/^ M.)
*Kurhau8 Lenzer Heide (JL77b' ; pension 5-6 fr.), and next reach
(38/4 M.) -
1472 M. Leu, Roman. Lansch (4285'; Krone 01 Poi{), an im-
portant military point before the construction of the Splfigen route.
The Due de Rohan in 1635, and Lecourbe in 1799 took up a posi-
tion here against the Austrians.
Albula Road to Bad Alvaneu and BvrgUn, see B. 98. — A somewhat
rough path leads from Lenz to (^/z hr.) Alvasthein (p. 867). — The old
bridle-path from Lenz through the Schyn Poms , on the right bank of the
Albula, by Obervatz^ to (3V2 hrs.) Thusis, has been superseded by the new
Schynstrasse, and is now hardly passable.
The road descends in numerous windings (avoided hy short-cuts)
to the (3 M.) Albula, OYerlooking the picturesque OberhUbstein
and, to the W., the Helnzenberg beyond the Schyn Pass ; in the
foreground is the village of Alvaschein on a height; beyond the
Schyn Pass lies Sttirvis (p. 357) ; and far below is Tiefenkasten.
Near the farm of VazeroUy to the right, below the load, is a small
monument marking the spot where the Three Leagues took the oath
of eternal union in 1471 (comp. p. 333).
171/2 M. Tief eukuten , more correctly Tiefeneoitel , Roman.
Casti (i790'; *H6t. Albula, R., L., A A. 3, B. IV4, D. 3 fr. ; mt.
Jfdier, indifferent; Kreuz) lies picturesquely in a deep valley,
with its church on a height (2917') above the confluence of the JftUa
and the Albula, (To Surava and Bad AlvaneUj see p. 366 ; *8ehyn
Road to Thusis, see p. 357.)
The road again ascends rapidly, and skirts the Stein (3596'), a
bold limestone cliff. Far below flows the J%Uia or Oberhalbstein Rhine.
The Romanic word Rhein means 'flowing water'.) We next enter
41/2 M.) the broad and populous part of the valley called the Ober-
(4
to Samaden. MOLINS. 99. BouU. 369
hcUbatein (8ur Seisaajy 5 M. in length, and pass the Tillages of
Burvein, (IV4 M.) Contera, and (8/4 M.) Sohweiningen (Savognin-,
4059' ; *H6t. Piz Michel ; Lowe). On the W. slope lie Salux (with
the favourite pilgrimage-ehapel of Ziteil above it), Prdaanz, Reams
(with a handsome castle, now a prison), and other villages.
ExcuRSiOMS. Fix Onnrdr (9761'-, 5 hrs.; guide), from Schweiningen by
giteil, not difficult, a very fine point (see p. 358 ; descent to Zillis or
Andeer). — Fbom Schweinikqen to AnssEB-FERREBA over the Fianell
Pass, 6V2 brs., easy and pleasant. A narrow road leads through the smil-
ing Vol Nandro to the (2 hrs.) Alp Curtins (6398') i here we ascend to the
right to the (1 hr.) Alp Sehmorrat (75(0) and the (1 hr.) Fianell or
Sclimorras Pass (83500, opposite the Piz Ori^ch {Piz FianelL lOfiCXf) ; then
descend by the Alp Moos and Suit Foina to (^i/j b,.) Auner-Ferrera (p. 359).
We next reach (IV4M.) Tiiuen, Bom. Tinizun (4230'; H6t.
Tinzenhom')^ prettily situated at the mouth of the Vol d^Err. In the
background rise Piz Vallvgn and Piz d'Aela (p. 352).
From Tinzen to BergHn over the Aela Pats, 4 hrs., see p. 366. To
the N. a somewhat trying route (5 hrs.; with guide) crosses the Tinsenthor
Pass, between the Piz St. Michel and the Tinzenhorn, to Bad Alvaneu
(p. 866). — Pi« St. Michel (10,370'; 6 hrs.; with guide), more difficult from
here than from Alvaneu (p. 366). — To Samaden over the Brrjooh (10,270'),
9 hrs., with guide, laborious, but repaying. Ascent through the pictur-
esque Val S'Err and over the Err OUicier to the pass, lying to the N.E. of
the Piz dTErr (see below) ; descent through the Val Sever (p. 379).
Above Tinzen the Julia fonns several fine waterfalls. The road
leads alternately through curious rounded basins, probably formed
by erosion, and picturesque rocky ravines. We next reach (I72M.)
Roffna and (23/4 M.) —
29 M. MollnB, Ger. MOhlen (4793'; ♦Loipc, R. 2V2, !>• incl.
wine, 4:fr.), beautifully situated, where the diligence halts for dinner.
From the Val da Faller, which debouches here and divides into the Val
Oronda and the Val Berela 8/4 hr. farther up, routes little used (guide) cross
the Val Oronda Joch (9198'), on the E. of the Weistberg, to (6 hrs.) Cresta
(p. 359), and the Faller Joch (about 9O9O0, past the FlUh Lakes to (6V2 hrs.)
Juf In the Averser Thai (p. 369). — The Pit Platta (11,110*), ascended
through the Vof Faller and Val Berela in SVshrs. (guide)., commands a
splendid view. — A* d'^n* (11,13»), PU d'^r&Ia/«cA (10,512'), and Piz For-
biech (10,690), for experts (guides at the 'Lowe').
The route from this point to Stalla , skirting the rapid Julia,
presents a succession of grand rocky landscapes. One of the finest
points is near the bridge before (8/4 M.) 8ur is reached. On a beau-
tiful wooded hill, in the middle of the valley, between the road
and the Julia, stands the tolerably preserved square watch-tower of
Spliidatsch (5260'; path to it beyond Sur; fine view). On the right,
3/4 y[. farther, appears the ruined castle of Marmorera, partly built
in a rocky cavity halfway up the hill. The next villages are (I74M.)
Marmorera (MarmelSy 5360'), at the mouth of the Vol Natona,
Stalvedfo (56130, and (21/4 M.) —
34 M. Btalla(5827'; *lnn), ot Bivio, the Roman Bivium^ where
the Julier and Septimer routes separate.
The Septihkr Route, a rough and tedious bridle-path (to Casaccia
4 hrs. ; guide unnecessary in fine weather), one of the oldest Alpine routes,
anciently traversed by Roman and German emperors with their armies, is
BAEDBKxa, Switzerland. i2th Edition. 24
370 Route 99, JULIER.
now Utile used. It diverges to the right from the road above Stalla, and
ascends the Val Cavreccia. At the chalets of (1 hr.) Cadval it crosses the
brook, enters a defile, and ascends the somewhat marshy meadows of Pian
Can/ir, to the (1 hr.) Septimer Pass (Passo di Sett; 7582"), with a dilapidated
hospice. (Over the Forcellina to y^/*, and by Lunffhino to the Maloja,^ see
p. 369.) A height to the left of the pass, indicated by two stones, com-
mands a magnificent view of the mountains of the Maloja, Piz della Margna
(10,364'), Monte delV Oro (10,544'), etc. Descent by a rough paved path,
crossing the Septimer Bach (Acqua di Settimo) three times, to the valley
of the Mera, and on its left bank, the latter part very steep and stony,
to (2 hrs.) Casaecia (p. 372).
From Stalla to Andeer^ over the BttUlerberg and through the Averter
Thai and Val Ferrera^ see p. 369. — To Sils over the ruorcla di GFravas-
alvas (8806'5 with guide), 6V2 hrs., interesting. Below the Julier Pass
we ascend to the right, past the small Gravasalvas Lake^ to the pass, on
the W. side of the Piz Lagrev^ with a fine view of the Bemina, etc.; then
a steep descent to the Lt^ of Silt (p. 375).
The road, completed in 1827, ascends the stony slopes of the
Jnlier (^Qiulio, IbOA^ in numerous windings (which walkoTs avoid,
crossing the bridge to the left beyond the church of Stalla), and
passes an auberge near the top. From November to the middle of
May the mountain is usually crossed by sledges, but the Julier is clear
of snow before any other pass of equal height, and the least exposed
to avalanches. On the (41/2 M.) summit of the pass are two round
milestones of mica-slate, 5' in height, without inscription, erected
in the time of Augustus, who constructed a military road from
Clavenna to the Curia Raetorum (Coire) over the Maloja and the
Julier. Roman coins have also been found here. Near the mile-
stones, to the right, is a small dear lake, which contains trout not-
withstanding its great height.
In summer large flocks of Bergamasque Sheep are usually met with
on the slopes and heights of the Julier, as on all the S. mountains of
the Grisons. The picturesque pastori in charge of them come chiefly
from the Seriana and Brembana valleys and Ticiuo; they are a rough,
free-spoken race, but honest and trustworthy. They wear long curling
locks, mantles of brown or white wool, and brown peaked Galabrian hats.
Their food consists of maize pottage (polenta) and a little cheese. They
arrive in June with their flocks in a miserably lean condition, owing
to their long journey, and leave again at the end of August, when their
sheep present a vastly improved appearance, and are covered with long
wool, which is bought by the manufacturers of Bei^^o. During the
summer about 40,000 sheep are thus brought to graze on these lofty
pastures , the owners paying 1 fr. per head for the right.
On the E. slope of the Julier, 1 M. from the top, lies the small
Julier Alp J with two chalets. On the left rise Piz Julier and
Piz d'AlbanOj and on the right Piz Pulaschin. In descending we
soon obtain a superb view of the snow and ice mountains of the
Bernina (p. 381). In the foreground rise Piz Surlej and Mt. Arias,
above which tower Piz Tschierva, Piz Morteratsch, and Piz Bernina
on the right, and Piz Corvatsch still more to the right. Lower
down we also survey the whole of the Upper Engadine from St.
Moritz to Sils. From the top of the pass to SiWaplana 5 M.
431/2 M. Silvaplana (5958'), and thence to —
51 M. Samaden (56000, see pp. 377-79.
371
100. From Chiavenna to Samaden. Val Bregaglia.
Comp. MapSy pp. 360^ 374.
34V« M. Diligence twice daily in 9Va hrs. (13 fr. 66, coup^ 16 fr. 40 c).
BxTBA-PosT with two horses, 69 fr. 20 c.
The *Val Bregaglia (Rom. Praegallia , *in front of Cisalpine Gaul),
G«r. Bergeller Thal^ opens near Chiavenna, and ascends toward the E. to
the Maloja. The valley, in most parts narrow, is watered by the Maira
or Mera. The route from Chiavenna to the Swiss frontier, passing between
rocks richly clothed with fine old chestnuts is strikingly picturesque, and
farther up it leads through grand Alpine scenery. In the Bregaglia alone
are to be found Italian communities which are exclusively Protestant (at
Poschiavo, p. 380, mixed). Many of the inhabitants (1700), like those of the
Engadine, seek their fortunes in foreign lands.
Chiavenna^ see p. 362. The road diverges to the E., and asoends
the course of the Mera. It passes (IV2 M.) a fine double waterfall,
and (1 V2 M.) the two hamlets of 8. CVoccin the '•C(ymune di Piuro\
On the opposite bank of the Maira formerly stood the prosperous little
town of Fiuro, with 12430 inhab., and a number of country-houses, which
was entirely destroyed by a landslip in 1618. For several days before the
catastrophe, masses of rock had become detached from the JUonte ContOy
and fissures were observed to form and widen in the mountain. The in-
habitants, however, disregarded these warnings, and were buried, with all
their possessions , by a mass of earth and rock 60^ thick, all attempts to
penetrate which proved fruitless. Every trace of the town has disappeared,
and the mass of debris is now richly clothed with chestnuts. The name
survives in that of the hamlet of Plurs , the inhabitants of which make
pottery of a soft kind of stone (lapis ollaris)y the ^Lapis Comensi$' of Pliny.
— Near Curtifutecio^ 41/2 M. from Chiavenna and *Ia M. from the road, is
the ViUa RoncaliOy an old baronial residence with a splendidly panel-
led hall.
The road leads on the right bank of the Mera, by Villa (di Chia-
venna). Immediately below Oastasegna the stream forms the boun-
dary between Italy and Switzerland. On the Italian side Is the
Dogana.
6 M. Caatasegna (2330'; ^Schumacher; Alb. Svizzerd) is the
first Swiss place. The name of this closely-built, but pleasant village
indicates that chestnuts form its staple commodity. The white mul-
berry and the silkworm also flourish here, and as far N. as Bondo.
Pleasant walk through a beautiful chestnut - wood , past the waterfall
of the Acqua di SMI, to (1 hr.) Soglio, Ger. Sils (3570' ; "Edt.-Pens. Giova-
noli, in an old mansion of the Balis family). In the garden of the hotel
the stone-pine or Alpine cedar is seen in curious juxtaposition with the
chestnut. Fine view of the Bondasca Glacier. Descent by a new road to
Spino (see below \ carr. to Vicosoprano 10 fr.). — Over the Duana Pass to
the Averser Thai, see p. 359. — The Fiz Oallegione (10,286). 5 hrs. from
Soglio, is not difficult (guide necessary). From Soglio in 31/2 hrs. to the
saddle iForcella, 8924'), between the Gallegione and the Gima di (ktvio;
then to the left over d^ris in IV2 hr. to the top (splendid view).
Opposite (I3/4 M.) Spino (2630'), a group of houses, with a
brewery, lies Bondo, with a chateau of the Salis family. For three
months the sun does not shine on Bondo. Rhododendrons and chest-
nuts flourish here side by side. The latter do not occur higher up,
and the walnut ceases near Stampa. Fine view of the wild Val Bon-
dasca, with the Piz CaccidbeUa (10,5800.
24*
372 Route 100. CASACCIA.
Pleasant excursion (guide desirable) to the Val Boadaaca, and over the
Lambardoif Lmretto, and Ifanxvedro Alps to the (4 hrs.) highest Alp di Sciora
(6T86')i grandly situated. To the E. rise the Piz Gacciabella and the Pizzi
di Sciora; to the S. are the Bondasca Glacier and the bold Badile group
(Piz Cengalo, Piz Badile, Piz Tmbinasca). — Over the creTassed Bondeuca
Olacier and the Forcella di Bondo (lOfSOOO a hazardous route leads to the
VcU Poreeligza and B<igni del Mtuino (p. 3^; 10 hrs. from Bondo). — Over
the CaeciaheUa Pass to the AUngna Olacier and Vicosoprano^ or over the
Casfiile Pass to the Malojay see p. 373.
The load crosses the Mera above its union with the wild Bon-
dasca (*Kurh6telBergellerHoff R. 4, pens. 9fr.), and reaches
(1/2 M.) -
8V4 M. Promontogno (2687'; *OaU€fia), a village in the parish
of Bondo, commanded by a modern church and the fine ruins of the
castle of Castelmury from which two lofty and massive walls descend
to the valley. The road passes through La Porta, a rocky gateway,
which, like the Platifer (p. 102) in the Leventina, marks the boun-
dary between two zones of vegetation. The chestnut disappears and
larch is the prevalent timber as far as the Grotta di Albigna.
Farther on (II/2 M.) we pass the church of 8. PietrOy pictur-
esquely placed on a hill to the left; adjacent to it is CoUuray with
a modern chateau of Baron Gastelmur. The villages of (^/^ M.)
Stampa (3380'; Inn) and (8/4 M.) Borgonuovo (Bomovy 3470'),
with Coltura, form the parish of Stampa (398 inhab.). Then
(8/«M0-
12 m. YiooBoprano, Rom. Vespran (3566'; pop. 346; Afaumio),
the capital of the Yal BregagUa, at the influx, of the Albigna into the
Maira. Curious rock-formations in the vicinity.
The Val Albigna deserves a visit. Above Vicosoprano (>/4 M.) we diverge
to the right from the road, and ascend through wood to the (3 hrs.) Cas-
cata delV Albigna y a fine fall of the Albigna in a wild ravine, near the
foot of the Albigna Olacier. The adjoining chalet (6773') is not always
occupied. From this point over the Caceiabella Pass to Bondo, and over the
Casnile Pass to the Maloja^ see below. — A trying route, to the S., crosses
the Albigna Olacier and the Forcella di 8. Martino {Passo di Zocca, 9000*),
between the Cima di Castello (11,158'^ ascended from the pass without
difficulty in 2 hrs.) and the Mle. di Zocca (10,390, to the Val di MeUo and
a. Martino (p. 398).
The Fiizo della Bnana (10,280'; 6-7 hrs. ; guide, the forester Oiov.
Stampa at Stampa or Qiac. Prevosti at Vicosoprano), a magnificent point
of view, is not difficult for adepts. The route leads from Vicosoprano to
the N., by the Alp Zocchetta and Pianldy to the small Logo di Val CarnpOy
and ascends the ardte from the E. side to the top. We may descend by
the Aip Pianaecio to Boglio.
The road soon ascends in windings (cut off by the old road,
being the paved Roman road over the Septimer, following the tele-
graph) to (21/4 M.) Asarina (4432'; view of the Albigna fall to the
right) and (I3/4 M.) —
16 M. Casaeeia, Rom. CasaUch (4790'; *Po8id)y the highest
village in the Yal Bregaglia , commanded by the ruin of Turratich.
(Over the Septimer to 8taUay p. 370.)
The road over the Maloja, the W. side of which is clothed with
^'h vegetation , passes the ruins of the Gothic church of 8, Oau*
.u
ENGADINE. . 101. Ernie. 373
dtnzU) on the left, and ascends through pine-woods, and lastly fn
zigzags, to the (31/2 M.) pass (5940'; p. 374).
From one of the last windings of the road a path to the right leads
in 2 min. to the beautiful fall of the Ordlegna^ the spray of which is seen
from the valley below (comp. p. 374). — At the top of the M aloja we mount
the rock opposite the Inn, a few paces from the road, to obtain a fine
view of the Bregaglia, for which the diligence allows time. — To the
Fomo Olacitr^ etc., see p. 876.
Fbom thk H aloja to Bomdo ovsb thb Casnilb and Cagciabblla Passes
(12 hrs.), most interesting, traversing the grand Bregaglia Mts. (fatiguing,
but for experts not difficult; good guide necessary). From the (1 hr.)
Alp Piancanino we ascend the Fomo Glacier to (IV2 hr.) a height of about
8040', and thence to the right to the (iVs hr.) Passo di Casnile (9744'; superb
view). Descent across snow, through a ^chemin^e\ and over rock, to the
foot of the Cantone Glacier y and then across two moraines to the (1 hr.)
Albigna Glacier. (Those who wish to divide the walk into two days, or
to go through the Val Albigna to Vicosoprano, should descend to the right
to the chalet at the Cascata delV Albigna, lys hr. from the Pass, instead
of to the left to the Cantone Glacier.) We next ascend the stony slope of
Cacdabella C&ne hunting'*, a resort of chamois) to the (2 hrs.) Passo di
Oaeciabella (9444'), another fine point of view, and descend to the (iV8-2
hrs.) Alp di Sciora (67850, grandly situated, and through the wild Val Bon-
dasca (see above) to (2Vs hrs.) Bondo (see above).
341/2 M. Samaden, 15 M. from the MalojOj see p. 379.
ENGADINE.
The *£]igadi]ie (Rom. Engiadind)j a valley 60 M. long, and
seldom more than 1 M. broad, descending from S.W. to N.E., and
watered by the Inn^ is bounded by lofty mountains , partly covered
with glaciers and snow. The Upper EngadirUy between the Maloja
and Samaden, with its lakes and the environs of Pontresima, is the
most attractive part of the valley, while the Lower Engadine (R. 103),
below Samaden, is also very picturesque at places.
The climate of the Upper Engadine between Sils (p. 376) and Punt Ota
(p. 388) is inclement, resembling that of the 'S. of Sweden or Finland. The
cultivation of com is almost unknown, and tillage of any kind uncommon,
except at tfaria and Pontresina, where we observe a few small gardens,
miserable potato-fields, a few patches of oats, and in very favourable sea-
sons a little rye. Owing to the want of straw , the natives have to use
long coarse marsh-grass, moss, or dried pine-cones as litter for the cattle
in winter. The atmosphere is remarkably dry and clear. The temperature
rises in summer to 66-76° Fahr. in the shade , but a fall of 3540° within
the 24 hrs. is not unfrequent. In winter the thermometer frequently falls
to 30-40" below zero. *Nine months winter and three months cold**, is the
laconic , but rather exaggerated account the natives give of their climate.
White frosts and snow are by no means uncommon in August.
At first sight the bottom of the Upper Engadine resembles a vast and
almost treeless meadow. The pasturage is excellent, but is seldom in the
hands of the inhabitants, being let by them to the Bergamasque shepherds
(p. 371), or to tenants who engage reapers from the Tyrol or the Valtellina
to collect the hay. The lower slopes of the mountains are chiefly clothed
with the larch and the pinus cenU>raj or Swiss stone-pine (Ger. Arve), a
stately tree, sometimes called the ^cedar of the Alps , but commoner in
the south of Siberia than in Switzerland. Its light, close-grained wood,
374 Route 102. MALOJA.
whicb is white in colour and h&s a pleasant fragrance, is extremely dur-
able, and is much esteemed for cabinet-work. The kernels (30 to 40) of
the cones, enclosed in a very hard triangular shell, have a pleasant flavour,
not unlike that of the pine-apple. This pine is the only forest-tree found
up to a height of 7000'; it prefers open and damp situations, and does not
thrive in the plains ; in Siberia it attains a height of 130'.
The Engadiners frequently emigrate in early life to different parts of
Europe, where they earn their living as confectioners, coffee-house keepers,
makers of liqueurs and chocolate, etc. ; and when they have amassed a
competency they usually return to their native valleys to spend the evening
of a busy and active life. To persons of this class belong many of the best
houses in the Engadine. The windows are made small to exclude the cold,
and they are generally adorned with gilded lattices. These abodes are often
most comfortably furnished, and their owners are generally well-educated
and respectable men, who in the course of their wanderings have learned
many of the continental languages, sometimes to the partial forgetfulness of
their native 'Ladin\ The native of the Engadine is sober, industrious, and
intelligent, learning with facility all the kindred dialects of his native
tongue. German is also commonly spoken, and with far greater purity
than in German Switzerland.
Most of the inhabitants are Protestants. In the Upper Engadine ser-
mons are usually preached in Romanic, German being used about once
monthly. The government of the valley is a pure democracy. *Next to
God and the sun, the poorest inhabitant is the chief magistrate'', says an
old Engadine proverb ; certain noble families, however, such as the Plantas
(p. 380), have for centuries enjoyed considerable influence, which has
hitherto been used beneficially.
101* The Upper Engadine, from the Maloja to
Samaden.
Comp. Map^ p, 380,
15 M. From Maloja to Sils li/s hr.; from Sils to Silvaplana 1 hr., from
Silvaplana to St. Moritz l^/s hr.; from St. Moritz to Samaden 1 hr. (from
St. Moritz to Pontresina, passing the Stafzer-See, IVs hr.). Diligencr
twice daily, comp. p. 367. Omnibus from Maloja to Sils, 1 hr., on Mon.,
Wed., and Frid. at 6 p. m. ; to St. Moritz daily in iVs hr., at 6.30 p. m.
and O.30 a. m. (3 fr. ; there and back 5 fr.). As the Upper Engadine is
crowded in summer, rooms had better be ordered beforehand.
From Chiavenna to the Maloja, see pp. 371 , 372. Before the
summit of the pass of the Xaloja, or Maloggia (59400, is the
Hotel Maloja^ and beyond it is the (Y2 M.) Osteria Vecchia (R. 2,
B. 11/4, D. 3 fr.), a good hotel in the Swiss style. To the left,
higher up, is the unfinished chateau of Count Renesse (visitors ad-
mitted) , commanding an extensive view over the Val Bregaglia ;
the 'Chemin des Touristes', the finest of the numerous picturesque
walks round the chUeau, leads from the Kursaal and back in 1 hr.
To the right, a few hundred yards from the road, at the upper
end of the Silser See, is the large *H6tel Kursaat-Maloja (R., L.,
& A. 5, D. 6, pens. 10-15, in winter 8-12 fr.), built by a Belgian
company, frequented also as a winter-resort (English Church). A
little farther on, to the W. opposite the Kursaal, is the Hot. Longhin
^pens. 6 fr.).
Excursions. Below the pass, a little to the W., a footpath, and i/s ^•
rther a road diverge to the left from the Maloja road, and cross the Ord-
jna (waterfall, sec below) near the lowest houses of the hamlet of Ordeno^
SILS. 101, Route. 375
and lead on the left bank through meadows and woods to the (50 min.)
sequestered, dark-blue ^Gavloooio Lake (6243'), surrounded by lofty moun-
tains : to the S. the finely shaped Monte del Fomo (10,5450 ; to the left
of it the snowy Huretto Pass (see below). The road ends at the large
chalets on the S. bank, where, however, nothing is to be had in the height
of summer, when the cattle are pastured on the higher Alps. From this
point to the Fomo Glacier and back, 2 hrs. (see below).
The Ordlegna Fall is reached by descending the windings of the Maloja
road to a (1 M.) finger-post, and diverging by a path to the left, which leads
to a (2 min.) rocky plateau above the ehief fall. Back to the inn, V2 ^'*
To the Fomo Glacier (with guide), also interesting. We follow the
Muretto route (see below) to the (1 V2 hr.) Alp Piancanino (6620') 5 then ascend
to the right for V4 hr. over turf and moraine to the "^Fomo Glacier, on the
right side of which we may ascend for V2-V4 hour. Imposing amphitheatre
of glaciers, couunanded by the Piz Bacone, Gima di Cantone, Gima di Ca-
stello, Pizzo Torrone, Mte. Sissone, Gima di Itosso, and Monte del Fomo.
— Over the Fomo Pass , between the Pizzo Torrone Orientate (10,827') and
the Monte Sissone (11,030'), to the Val di Mello and the Bagni del Masino,
11 hrs. from the Maloja, for experts only , with good guides , see p. 398.
— Over the Casnile Pass to the Albigna Olader, see p. 373.
Fiz Lunghino (9120'), 3 hrs., easy (with guide). From the Hotel
Longhin a new path (riding practicable as far as the lake) leads to the left
over pastures to the (2 hrs.) blue Lunghino Lake (8136'), from which the Inn
emerges, and thence over rocks and stones to the top. Splendid view.
To the W. of the lake we may cross the Fuorela di Lunghino (8645') to
the (IV2 hr.) Septimer (see p. 370). — The following peaks should be at-
tempted only by experts, with able guides: Piz Bacone (10,637'; 5-6 hrs.);
Gima di Castello (11,158^; 7 hrs.); Pizzo Torrone (10,824'; 6-7 hrs.); Mle.
Sissone Cll,030^; 7 hrs.), and Cima di Rosso (11,043'; 6 hrs.).
Fbom thb Maloja oveb thb Mubbtto Pass to Ghibsa in the Val
Maleneo^ 7 hrs., rather laborious, but on the whole repaying (with guide).
We ascend on the right bank of the Ordlegna to the (IVs hr.) chalets of
Piancanino (65200) which we leave on the right. Then a steep climb over
debris and the Muretto Glacier to the (iVs hr.) Knretto Fass (8389'), between
the Mte. Fomo (10,5460 and the Mte. Muretto (10,197'), where we get a fine
survey of the grand Mte. delta Disgrazia (12,0740- Descent over a little snow,
then over stony and grassy slopes on the left bank of the wild Mtitero^
with admirable views of the Mte. della Disgrazia, the Mte. Sissone, Gima
di Rosso, etc., to Chiareggio (54730 and (4 hrs.) Chiesa (4282^) in the Vat
Maleneo (p. 397).
At the Kursaal we cross the infant Inn, here called Ova cfOen,
which descends in several falls from the Piz Lunghino (9120') to
the W., and at the chalets of Capolago reach the pale-green Lake
of Sil8 , Rom. Lej da S^gl (58920, 41/2 M. long. To the right rise
the Piz Bacone (10,637') and the Piz della Matgna (10,354'),
with its small glacier. On a green plateau farther on, at the
mouth of the Fedoz , lies the hamlet of Isola (Islas )y overshadowed
by the beautiful Piz Corvatsch (p. 385). The road crosses the Crap
da Chuerny a rocky promontory which divides the lake into two basins.
As we approach the peninsula of Chaste (see below), the rifted
Fedoz Glacier , at the head of the Val Fedoz, between the Piz della
Margna on the right and the Piz Led (10,135') on the left, appears
to the S., above Isola. Walkers may go from the Maloja to (IV2 l^'O
Sils-Maria by a pleasant path on the right bank of the lake, running
at places high above it.
At the E. end of the lake, to the right of the road, lies (41/2 M.)
Sils (5895'), Rom. 8egl, embracing the hamlets of Sils-BasegUay on
376 Route lOU VAL FEX. Upper ,
the N. side of the valley (Pens, Beausijourjy and the pleasantly
situated SUs- Maria (^AlperMrosCj R., L., & A. 372? ^- ^> ^- ^t pens.
SVs fr. ; *H6t, Edelwei9$ , similar charges) , 72 ^* ^^ ^^^ ^^
bridge, hoth containing several handsome houses with little gardens.
The peninsula of Cha^lk (^castle'), which projects into the lake of
Sils, bears traces of the walls of an ancient castle.
OuNiBUS firom Sils-Maria to St. Horitz daily at 7 a. m. , retaming at
10.90 a.m. (on Tnes., Than., Sat!, and Sun. also at 2 p.m., retaming at
6.90 a.m.), in 1 br. : to the Maloja Hotel on Mon., Wed., and Frid. at 2
p.m., returning at d p.m., also in 1 hr. Fare for each route, IVs, there
and back 2V2 fr. — Garbiaqb with one horse from Sils to St. Moritz 10,
to Pontresina 15 fr.
Charming view of the lakes from the Muot Marta^ a hill opposite the
H6tel Alpenrose (10 min.), from the * Larel ff&he (15 min.)^ and the Bella-
vitta 00 min.) \ more extensive from the Muot Harmore (about 7220'),
1 hr. to the S.E. of Maria (good path), which commands also the Val Fex,
the Pis della Hargna, Piz Muretto, Mte. deU'Oro, Pis Led, etc. By
ascending the hill for about 20 min. from Sils-Baseglia, opposite the Inn
bridge, we also obtain a fine survey of the Corvatsch, the Fex Glacier,
and the Fedozthal. The shady promenades on the peninsula of Chaste
afford pretty views of the Maloja.
Pleasant walk from Sils-Maria to the Val Fex {Sehafthal; to the Fex
Glacier 2 hrs.). Before reaching the bridge over the Fex \Ova da Fex), we
follow a cart-track ascending from Maria on the left bank, through the
Laretwaldy and past the houses of Platta and (S/4 hr.) Oreuta^ to (20 min.)
Curtiru (6483'; Restaur. Zur Edelweisshalde; Restaur. Philip, 6 min.
farther), one of the highest permanently inhabited places in Europe, on
the right bank of the Fex. Beyond the (25 min.) ruined chalet we re-
cross the Fex (ground marshy at places) to the foot of the Muot Stlvoi^
an old moraine- hill , crossed by a stony track. The Q/% hr.) S. side of
this hill affords an excellent survey of the beaatifnl Fex Olaeier^ over-
shadowed by the ChapUtsekin^ Pit Tremoffgia, the ChapHUeh^ Fix Fwa-, Fix
OiiZj and PUi Led. Below us the Fex emerges from its broad stony bed.
In the opposite direction is the green Fex Valley , with the indented
chain of Fit Lagrev (9720^) and Fit Fulaechin (9896') in the background. —
Those who do not eare to visit the glacier itself, need only go to the view-
point (bench), 8 min beyond the little church of Crasta (see below) or to
the Restaur. Edelweisshalde (see above), then return and below the church
descend to the right to Plattii, cross the brook, and take the path through
the gorge, whence they will see a small fall of the Fex. Or, in the re-
verse direction, we may ascend the gorge from the bridge at Maria by
a path on the right bank of the Fex.
Mountain Asckmts (Guides , Chr. Klueier and /. Eggenberger). The
Fit Led (10,136'-, 4 hrs.). Fit Margna (10^54': iVrS hrs.), FU ChapHttekui
(11,130'; 41/2-6 hrs.), and Fit Tremoggia (11,322'; 5-6 hrs.). More toilsome
ascents are those of the Fit OliUchaint (11,800'; 6V2-U hrs.). Fit Fora
(11,063'; 6-7 hrs.), and may be ascended from Sils by adepts without difQ-
culty. Fit Corvittseh (5 hrs.; more trying from Sils than from Pontresina),
see p. 386.
Fbom Sils to Pontbesina over the Fuorela Fex-Boseg^ the Chc^Utachin
Fassy or the Fuorela Olutchtrint, see p. 886. — To Malbnco over the Fex
Glacier and the Tremoggia Pats (9911'), between the Chaputsch and PIz
Tremoggia, or over the Puorcla Fez-Soaraoen (10,236*), between Piz Tre-
moggia and Piz Gliischaint, both suited only for mountaineers (9-10
hrs. 1 with guide); descent over the BcersctH Olaeier; then steeply, to
the W. of Mte. Nero, to the Val Entova and Chieta (p. 897).
Beyond Sils the road (in shade in the afternoon) follows the left
bank of the artificial channel of the Inn and that of the Lake of
SUvaplana (58860, IVgM. long, to (28/4 M.) Silvaplana. A tolerable
Engadine. BATHS OF ST. MORITZ. 107. Route. 377
path also leads thither (1 ^3 hr.) on the right hank (free from dust,
and in the morning shaded).
71/4 M. Silvaplana (5958'; *H6t, Rivalta, pens. 8-12 fr. ;
^Wilder Manrij R. 2, B.\ , D. 3, pens. 6 fr.; Pens. Heinz; *H6t
Corvatschj on the lake; Sonne') j where we reach the Julier road
(p. 370), lies pleasantly on a green pasture, on the alluvial de-
posits of the hrook descending from the Julier, which separate the
lakes of Silvaplana and Oampf^r. Opposite is a pretty fall of the
Surlejer Brook.
To PoHTBESiMA OVER THE FuoRCLA SuRLBJ, 7-8 hrs. (guide, BOt required
by adepts, 10, horse 20 fr.), easy and very attractive. The narrow part of
the lake near Silvaplana is crossed by a bridge to the village of Surlej^
*above the lake**, with its chalybeate spring. This village was destroyed in
1834 by the stream, the course of which has now been diverted to the lake.
Beyond the village, we do not cross the brook, but ascend to the right into the
wood ; 1 hr., Alp Swlej (6976') ; then to the S. over a pasture, towards the Pi?.
Corvatsch. Farther up, above a second chalet, the path turns to the left,
and, near the GorviUteh Olaeier, reaches the (2 hrs.) Fuorola Surlej (9042'),
between Pit Corvatich (p. 370; ascended from the pass in 21/2 hrs.) and
Jft. Arias. The magnificent Roseg Glacier (p. 383) is now revealed. De-
scent over rock and grass to the (iVi hr.) Alp Surovel (7424'; milk) and
the (V4 hr.) inn in the Boseg Valley, I8/4 hr. from Pontresina (p. 388).
Pis Julier (11,106*) from Silvaplana (5 hrs. ; guide 20 fr.), trying. —
Easier, but less interesting, is Piz Pulaschin (9898'; 3^2^x9.^ with guide).
The Silvaplana Lake is connected by a channel 14 yds. broad
with the small Lake of Campfevy which is bisected by a promontory.
The road skirts the W. bank of the latter. Opposite rises the wooded
height of Crestalta (6250' ; Restaur.), 1 M. from Silvaplana, which
affords an admirable view of the lakes and mountains of the Upper
Engadine. (This point may be reached by boat; path on the right
hank of the river to St. Moritz, 3/^ hr.) The Campfer Lake is drained
by the Sela^ which takes the name of Inn after it leaves the Lake
of St. Moritz.
88/4 M. Campfer, Rom. Chamftr (6000'; *mt. JulUrhof; *H6t.
cPAngleterre ; Pens. Cazin'). The road divides here. The new road,
on which the diligence runs in summer, crosses the Inn and leads by
BadSU Moritz (post-stat.) to the (3 M.) village otSt. MoritZy while the
old road, shorter by V^^m ^^^^ ^^Sh above the Inn, on its left bank.
10^4 M. Baths of St. Moritz. — *EurhaD8 (Grand JIdiel des Bains),
with upwards of 250 beds ; R. for 1-2 pers. usually 10, board 8 fr. per day ;
visitors can go to the baths and the spring under cover in bad weather.
''HdTEL Victoria, opposite. A few paces farther, on the left bank of the
Inn, *HdTEL DD Lao, large and first-class. *Hof St. Moritz ; *Engai>inkr
HoF. Nearer the village : Hotel & Cap* Gsntral (good Munich beer) ; H6tel
Bellevdb, with the d^pendance Villa Jfonplaisir. — Pensions. Kear the
Kurhaus: Villa Beatuite, Villa Pidermann-Bmgger. Kear the Hotel Cen-
tral : JEdeheeisSy FlUttchy Zw Seimat, etc.
Baths in the long wing of the Kurhaus (7-10 a.m. 2, 10 a.m. to 1
p.m. 2V2, 2-6 p.m. I72 fr.); tickets at the post-office in the Kurhaus. —
Phtbicians: Dr. St. Clair Thomson (English), Drs. BrUgger, Ghristellery
Veraguth and Biermann. — Gabriaosb. With one horse to the village of
St. Moritz or to Campfer 2-3 fr. 5 to Pontresina 8V2-10»/2 fr. (see below).
— English Church.
The Baths of St, Moritz (5804') owe their origin to a mineral
378 Route 101. ST. MORITZ. Upper
spring rising at the foot of the Piz Rosatsch, strongly impregnated
with carbonic acid and alkaline salts, pronounced the best of its
kind in Europe by Paracelsus as early as 1539, and annually resorted
to by numerous patients of all nations. The water is used for drink-
ing as well as bathing. The season is from the middle of June to
the middle of September. Patients will find warm clothing neces-
sary, as frost and snow are not uncommon in August.
A band plays several times daily in the grounds in front of
the Kurhaus. Behind the wing of the Kurhaus promenades, passing
the French Protestant Church, ascend the (20 min.) pine -clad
Quellenhugel, and lead thence to the (8/4 hr.) Johanniaberg. —
Another walk leads on the S. bank of the Lake of 8t. Moritz (see
below), or over the Mil at the foot of Rosatsch, to the (1/2 hr.) Ada
d'im Lej (dairy and auberge, an afternoon resort), one-third of the
way to Pontresina. — To the (35 min.) Lower Alpina (Restaur.,
dear) a path ascends to the right just beyond the upper Inn bridge,
1/4 M. from the Kurhaus. Higher up is the (20 min.) Upper Alpina.
— To the (3/4 hr.) Creatalta (p. 377) a pleasant wood-walk ascends
from the Kurhaus on the right bank of the Inn.
Between the Baths and the village of St. Moritz, on the lake, lies
the new Casino , with concert , reading , and conversation rooms,
caftf-restaurant, etc. Concerts take place here several times a week
(adm. 1 fr. per day, subscription cheaper). To the right, across the
river, a new Roman Catholic Church is being built; to the left rises
the English Church , in the round-arch style.
113/4 M. Village of St. Moritz. — *H6t.-Pens. Kulm, an exten-
sive pile of buildings at the upper end of the village, with a fine view ;
R. 3, D. 472 fr. — At the end next the Baths, Hotel Belvedbrb. In
the village, Hot.-Pen. Beadrutt ; Stbffani; Hotbl-Pems. Soissb; Vbra-
GUTH^ Wbttstein^ Zdr Post. — Pensions, beginning from the lower
end : Jthaetia, Villa Berry, Joos, Flugi, Schmidt, Oartmann, St. Moritz^ Hel-
vetia, Harimann, Villa turn OrUnen Berg, Pidermann, Peter (well spoken of),
Tognoni-Badrutt, Beaurivage, the two last iSnely situated above the lake.
Garriaobs. With one horse to the Kurhaus for i-2 pers. 2, 3-4 pers.
3 fr. ; with two horses 4 or 5 fr. ; to Camp/ir 5-6 or i0-i2 fr. ; to Samaden
in the forenoon 5-6 or 8-10 fr., in the afternoon 6-8 or 12-15 fr.; to Pontre-
sina 8-10 or 15-18 fr. ; to the Bemina Inn 14-16 or 25-28 fr. ; to Poschiavo
40 or 70-80 fr. -, to Chiavenna 45 or 70-90 fr. ; to Coire 60-70 or 120-130 fr. ;
fee for half-a-day 1-2 fr. ; if the shorter excursions are begun in the fore-
noon, 2 fr. more in each case. Omnibus to Sils-Maria, in 1 hr., daily at
10.30 a.m., also at 2 p.m. on Tues. , Thurs. , Sat., and Sun.: to Haloja
daily in IV2 hr. at 10 a. m. and 2 p.m. (3 fr., there and back ofr.) Omni-
bus for patients in the forenoon between the village and the baths.
Guides'* Tariff given in the different excursions. — Treapassing on the
meadows before hay-harvest is punishable by a fine.
St. Moritz, Rom. San Murezzan (6090'), the highest village in
the Engadine, 148' higher than the Maloja, lies on a slope to the
N. of the Lake of St, Moritz, which abounds in trout, and com-
mands a fine view of the mountains, from the Piz Languard west-
wards to the Piz Julier. For non-patients the village is pleasanter
and less expensive than the baths. i
Engadine. SAMADEN. 101. Route, 379
ExcuKsiOMs (see also above. Baths of St. Moritz). To the Dairp (Ada
d** im Le), p. 378) a pleasant path also leads from the village in ^ min.,
on the if. bank of the lake, and across the Inn which issues from it,
forming a fine waterfall 100 paces below the bridge {Pens. WaldhauSy on
the right bank). From the dairy a new and very attractive path leads
through Chamadilra (gorge of the Inn between St. Moritz and Celerina)
to (V2 hr.) Celerina. A rocky height halfway affords a charming view
up and down the Innthal and of the deep gorge. •
From the village of St. Moritz by the (V4 hr.) Alp Laret (6893'; good
path thus far) to the (V4 hr.) *Sa8S da Muoitat (77660, with fine view
of the Bernina chain ana Inn valley; descent through the Val Saluver to
C/4 hr.) Celerina.
To the Alp Giop (7168'), 1 hr. ; thence by a path to the top of the ^Piz
Hair (10,040^; guide advisable, 7 fr.) 2V2-3 hrs. ; superb view.
To Samaden through thb Val Sdvbbtta, and the Val Bbvbb, 7 hrs.,
interesting, especially for botaniats (guide unnecessary). The route from
the baths leads by the Loatr Alpina, and that from* the village by the
Alp Oiop. We then ascend past the Alp Suvretta to the small 8uvretta
Lake (8663') and the (3 hrs.) pass (SOSCX) which separates the S. Val Su-
vretta da St. Moritz from the K. Val Suvretta da Samaden, We de-
scend the latter, to the (V4 hr.) Alp Suvretta - Samaden (7004'), where
the Val Suvretta opens into the Val Sever, and reach the (I1/4 hr.)
Alp PrtuHrattdi, where a narrow road begins. Thence back to St. Moritz
by carriage previously ordered (one-horse 15 fr.), by Severs and Samaden
in 2 hrs.
An "^Excursion on the Bernina Road as far as the Hospice (p. 394),
including a visit to the Morterattch Glacier^ (p. 3^) or the Alp OrSm
(p. 396), takes 10 hrs. by carriage (see above). Omnibus every afternoon
to Pontresina and to the Morteratsch Glacier.
The Footpath to Pontbesina, 1 hr. from the (V2 hr.) Aela dHm Lej
(p. 378), passes the K. end of the Statzer See (where the path to Celerina
leads straight on), turns to the right, and then to the left after a few paces,
and traverses a wood, rounding the base of the Bosatsch, About 5 min.
below Pontresina we cross the Flatzbach near the Hotel Roseg. (Or,
better, we may cross the Roseg, to the right, and the Punt Ota; comp.
p. 383.) The carriage-road leads round by Celerina.
The Samaden road ascends for a sbort distance, and then de-
scends in a long bend through larch-wood. On quitting the wood we
enjoy an admirable survey of the Inn Valley, extending neariy in a
straight line to the MuntBaseglia, which appears to close the valley,
with Zernetz (p. 388) lying at its base. Passing Cresta, Rom. Crasta
(5690'; Pens. Misani, with restaurant), we cross the SchlcUtein-
bachj descending from the Val Saluver (see above), to —
14 M. Celerinaf Rom. SeUarigna (^Hdt.-Pena. Muraily pens.
from 8 fr.).
To PoNTBESiNA (2Vs H.) a direct road leads hence to the right, crossing
the Inn. It passes the dilapidated chapel of St. Qian^ crosses the Flatz-
bach and joins the Samaden road (p. 08O). — Footpath through the CTmr-
nttdilra to the Acla, see above. It diverges to the right before the Inn
bridge, leads through a meadow on the bank of the Inn, crosses to the right
bank, and ascends gradually through wood.
Near Samaden the Flatzhaeh, descending from the Bernina, falls
into the Inn.
15 M. Samadan. — ^Hotbl Bebmina, r., l., a a. from 472, b. I1/2,
lunch 3V« , I>. 5 fr. i *£moadineb Hof , R. & A. from 3 , B. 1, D. 3V4, S.
21/2 fr.; both at the lower end of the village; Hot. -Pens, dbs Alpes;
^HStbl zum Inmthal ; ^Kbonb , unpretending. — Carr. with one horse to
Pontresina 4, Morteratsch Glacier 8, Bernina Pass and back, 15, St. Mo-
380 Route 101, SAMADEN. Upper.
ritz 4, the Baths 5 , Silvaplana 6 , Sils-Maria 8, tfaloja 10 fr. — Omnibus
daily from the Hotel Bernina to St. Moritz and to the Horteratsch Glacier.
. Samadenf Bom. Samedan (5670' ; pop. 757), the chief village
of the Upper Engadlne, "with handsome houses and a new Erhgliah
Church J is another summer resort, beautifully situated on the W.
side of the Inn Valley. The principal house is that of the Planta
family, a name intimately connected with the history of the country
for nearly 1000 years. The old church of 8t. Peter, 1 M. to the N.W.
of the village , is paved with the gravestones of the Planta, Sails,
Juvalta, and other families.
Walks. To the IT., past the English church, to the (i/x hr.) Munterutsch,
a larch-clad hill, with a fine view of the Bernina group. Thence to the
right, by a pleasant wood-walk, to the (i/e hr.) saw-mill of Resgia in the
Val Bever. — To the W. in 20 min. to the hill of Salvatplanas, above the
church of 8t. Peter (see above), and the (1 hr.) Alpetta. — To the S. to
the (V2 hr.) wooded hill of Christolais^ between Samaden and Celerina.
The ^MuottM Muraigl (8270^; steep bridle-path, 272 hrs.) is a very fine
point. The new bridle-path (horse or mule 10 fir.) diverging to the left
from the Pontresina road at the bridge over the Inn, leads in 20 min. to
the foot of the mountain, up which it winds its way, at first through wood,
to the (2 hrs.) summit. From this point we survey the glaciers of the Ber-
nina (the Boseg Valley with the Piz Horteratsch, Piz Bernina, etc., being
particularly striking), the green Upper Engadine with its lakes, from
Ponte to the Maloja, and the mountains on the N. side of the Inn Valley
from Piz Lunghino to Piz Kesch. From the Muottas Huraigl to Pontresina,
see p. 884; to the top of the 8eha/berg, iVs hr., see p. 384.
To the W. above Samaden rises Piz Padella, a grotesquely cleft limestone
rock, connected by a rocky ridge with three peaks (Trais Flvors, 'three
flowers'-, 9701') with the massive *Pi« Ot (lOjewy-, *lofty peak' •, guide 8 fr.).
This granite peak, rising abruptly in a pyramidal form, and formerly ac-
cessible to experts only, is now ascended without danger in 4-4>/2 hrs.
from Samaden. The path ascends in zigzags, iron rods being attached to
the rock at awkward places. Bridle-path to the (2Vs hr.) Fontauna Fraida
('cold spring'; 8840"), where it is joined by the direct path from St. Moritz
and Celerine through the VtU Saluver and the Fuorcla da Trait Fluors.
Imposing view, little inferior to that from the Piz Languard (p. 384). —
The Pis Fadeila (9460') is ascended from Samaden by a good bridle-path
in 3 hrs., diverging from the Piz Ot route at the point where a small valley
begins at the back of the Padella. *View of the Inn Valley, from Sil-
vaplana to Zemez. Rich flora.
From Samaden to Pont&bsina (81/4 M). The road (Bernina
Road, R. 104) soon crosses the Inn, traverses the bottom of the
valley, and at the point where it reaches the FUUzbaeh is joined by
the road from Celerina (p. 379). It then crosses the Muraigl. Near
Pontresina, to the right, appears the grand Roseg Olaeier (p. 383) ;
in the background rise Piz Morteratsehj Piz Tschierva, La Sella,
and Piz Oliischaint,
102. Pontresina and Environs.
Comp. Map, p. 374.
Hotels. At Unter- Pontresina: *Hotel Roseg, at the lower end of the
village (patronized almost exclusively by the English), R., L., A A. 41/2-6,
B. li/s, lunch 8, D. 5, board T'/sfr.j *HdT. Endrklin, similar charges;
*Wbi88K8 Krbdz (Enderlin senr.), R. A A. 3-8V2, B. 1 fr. 20, D. 3, board
5V2 fr. i ^Kkonbniiop & Bella vibta (Gredig) , with fine view (patronized
■zi
"J
J.
Engadine. PONTRESINA. 102, Route. 38 1
by Englisb travellers); *Hot. Sakatz, R., L., & A. 4, board 8fr.; *H6t.-
Pkns. Pontkesina (Stoppani)., R., L., & A. 4, B. I'/z, D. 4, S. 2fr. ; *H6t.
Languasd, R. a L. 3V«, lunch 3, D. 6, board V/zfr. — At Ober-Pontre-
sina: "^Stjbivbogk , R. 21/2, board 6Vafr> — Private Apartments at Villa
Jennif, at Walther^s^ Caviez9l^ etc. — Beer at the Hot. Enderlin, Kronen-
hof and the Hot. Pontresina. Cafi ''A ma Campagne* with pretty view;
Oa/S Samtouci (see below).
Guides. Han* and his nephew Sam (^de Christian*) Qrasa^ Joh. Gross,
Benedict Cadouau, Christ. Orass (father and son), L. C<^fiisch. Paul JfUller,
MUtler, etc. The charges for the excursions are given in each case. Trag-
sessel Institute (chaises a porteurs) with fixed tariff.
Photographs, etc., at FlurCs. — Alpine plants at CatiezeVs. — Phys-
ician, Dr, Ludtvig,
Carriages. The fares here given are the return-fares, and in each case
include waiting for 1 hr., each additional hr. 1 fr. for one-horse , 2 fr. for
two-horse carriages. With one horse (1-2 pers.) to Samaden (and Gelerina) 5,
with two horses (4 pers.) 10 fr. ; St. Moritz 7 or 14 , Baths of St. Moritz
8 or 16, Silvaplana 10 or 20, Sils Maria 14 or 27, Maloja 17 or 32, Chia-
venna 40 or 70, Roseg Glacier (one-horse only) 9, Morteratsch 5 or 10,
Bemina Hospice 13 or 25 , Poschiavo and Le Prese 36 or 70, Tirano 50 or
90, Ponte 8 or 15, Zuz 10 or 20, Zemez 20 or 40, Siis 25 or 50, Schuls 40
or 70, Tiefenkasten 45 or 80, Thusis 65 or 110, Coire over the Albula or
Julier Pass and Churwalden 70 or 120, via Thusis 75 or 130; Davos by the
Fliiela Pass 60 or 110; Nanders 60 or 105; circular tour by the Bemina
and Stelvio to Schuls and back to Pontresina 170 or 300; over the Fluela
to Davos and back by the Albula, 90 or 170 fr. ; fee for driver of one horse,
half-day^ 50 c., whole day Ifr. ; for longer excursions 10 per cent of the
fare. For each day of rest, 10 fr. per horse.
Drives. To the Bemina Hospice (and walk to the Sassal Masone or the
Alp Griim) , see p. 394. — Morteratsch Glacier (and falls of the Bemina ;
widk to the Ghiinetta), see p. 382. The two last excursions combined take
a whole day (comp. p. 379). — Roseg Glacier (Alp Ota), see p. 383. — Sils
(Mt. Marmorfe), see p. 376. — Maloja (and Cavloccio Lake), see p. 374.
The two last excursions combined also take a whole day.
Ov&mbns from Samaden by Pontresina to the Morteratsch Glacier daily.
English Ohurch Service during the season.
Pontresina (5915'; pop. 3o3), a consideiable village, extend-
ing on both sides of tbe Bernina road for more tban 1/2 M., consists
of Lower Pontresina (Uom.. Laret\ with the church, and Upper Pon-
tresina (Rom. Spiert'), about Y4 M. apart, between which lies a
group of houses called Bellavita, including the English Church,
Above Spiert are the houses of Oiarsun and Carlihof, with the loft-
ily situated little church of 8. Maria (adjoined by the small church
yard), and the ruined towei of La Spaniola, It is surprising to find
at this elevation (9' higher than the Rigi-Kulm) such a variety of flo-
wers as some of the little gardens contain ; but their beauty Is fre-
quently destroyed by a single night's frost. Pontresina owes its im-
portance as a mountain eering station to the proximity of the Bemina
Chainy which separates the Upper Engadine and the Bregaglia from
the Yaltellina, and is hardly inferior in grandeur to the Monte Rosa
group. This lofty range, with its vast expanse of n^v^ and glaciers
(Rom. Vadretj Ital. Vedretta^^ is now so favourite a goal of travellers
that Pontresina Is often crowded in summer. Neither the Piz Bernina
(p. 386), the highest peak, nor the other important peaks, are visible
from Pontresina itself.
Excursions. ""Sohluclit Promenade,. By the H6tel Saratz a path
382 RouUlU2. PONTRESINA. Morteratach OlacUr.
descends to the right , crosses the Beminabach (here flowing in a
narrow gorge) by the Punt Ota (p. SSB), and leads to the left
through wood to the (1/4 hr.) prettily situated Cafi Sanssouei^ where
it is joined by a path (on the left) from the H6tel Steinbeck. We
may return by the latter, or by a path, to the right, leading through
wood to the (% hr.) bridge opposite the Languard Fall (p. 378),
whence we may return by the road. — Tais and RuaeUas Promen-
ades. The Tais Promenade diverges to the right from the Schlucht
Promenade, a little before the chalet Sanssouci and leads to (^/^hij)
a bench in the Roseg Valley with a fine view of the Roseg Glacier.
From this point the RuseUas Promenade ascends the Roseg Valley
and then, just above the -(3/4 hr.) AclaColani, crosses the Roseg to the
road leading to the Roseg Glacier (see below), or ascends for 25 min.
more to the second bridge. — The Muottas da Pontreaina (1 */2^r')
is reached from the Punt Ota in a straight direction by a path
crossing the Tais Promenade , and ascending through wood to
the *Signal' (76900. View inferior to that from the Schafberg. —
The route to the (1 hr.) Acla dHm Lej^ near the Lake of St. Moritz
(p. 378), crosses a bridge near the H6tel Roseg, and leads straight
on from the top of the hill. The path to the right at the top of
the hill leads to Celerina , that to the left to the Roseg Valley and
the Punt Ota (see above).
The *MorteratBch Olacier ( Vadret da Morteratsch ; guide unneces-
sary ; one-horse carr. 5-6 fr.) is 31/2 M. to the S. of Pontresina. The
best route to it for pedestrians is across the bridge at the Languard
Fall, and then by a wood-walk on the left bank of the brook to the
restaurant (see below). The Road diverges to the right from the
Bernina road about 172^^* beyond a saw-mill, and ends after less
than 1/2 M^- ** *^® 'Kutscher-Platz', where the traveller alights.
(From a point, 1/2 M. farther up the Bernina road , we obtain an
admirable view of the glacier; comp. p. 394.) Path thence to the
(10 min.) bridge over the Bernina, which forms several falls above
and below the bridge. Then across the Morteratsch Brook to the
Restaur, du Olacier Morteratsch (6260', with a few beds , pens.
7 fr.), grandly situated, 5 min. from the foot of the glacier (view of
the Piz Palfl, Bellavista, Grastaguzza, and Piz Bernina). In the
glacier is an artiflcal grotto (V2 ^r*)' — ^^ *^® '^S^* (P^ *^® 1®^*
side of the glacier), by a reddish cross a path ascends from' the inn,
at first through wood , past a chalet, and about 10 min. beyond it
to the right, to the (25 min.) Chunetta, a point of view affording a
complete survey of the glacier and its grand environment (from the
Munt Pers towards the right : Piz Cambrena, Palu, Bellavista, Zupo,
Crastagiizza, Bernina, part of the Roseg, Morteratsch, Boval, Tschier-
va). The traveller may venture on the glacier a little higher up,
without danger.
A closer survey is obtained from the Boval Hut (8070), 2 hrs. higher
up, on the W. side of the glacier. The path (guide not indispensable)
Boseg Qlacitr. PONTRESINA. i02. Eoute, 383
ascends the slope of the valley from a point 5 min. below the Chiinetta,
finally through a ^chcmin^e", to the hut, maintained by the S. A. C, the
starting-point for the Bemina, Palii, etc. (p. 386). Less ambitious travel-
lers should at least (with guide) walk hence across the glacier to the fall
of the Pert Qlaoier (there and back 3Vi brs. ; comp. p. 385).
*BoBeg Glacier (road to the inn 472 M., thence to the glaciei
3/4 hr. ; one-horse carr. for 1-2 pers. 9 fr.). We cross the Bernina
by the Punt Ota^ and then the Bostg Brook, and ascend the left bank
of the latter, between the wooded Piz Chalchagn on the left and the
Piz Rosatsch on the right. After 1^2 ^* ^^ P&ss the Ada Golani
(6053') and a bridge across the Roseg below us on the left, and
1 M. farther, by the Alp Ptimaj cross the brook. A little farther,
there is a good spring on the right. After IV2 M. more, beyond a
wooded hill (Muot da Cresta), we again cross the brook, and soon
reach the (V3 M.) small Restaur, du Olaeier (6560' ; with a few
R.), 3/4 hr. from the Roseg Olaeier, which has receded greatly of
late. The glacier consists of two large ice-cataracts (E. the Vadret
da Roseg, and W. the Vadret da Tschierva\ which unite below.
Between them rises the green isolated rock of Agagliouls, the
northernmost spur of Piz Roseg (p. 386), where sheep graze in
summer. A good survey of the glacier is obtained from the *Alp
Ota (7385') : the path leads from the inn for 20 min. at the same
level, and ascends past a projecting rock on the right to the (*/2 hr.)
two chalets on the Alp. Passing to the right of the chalets, we
reach the best point (on the Mortel-path) in 20 min. more, where
we survey a superb amphitheatre (from left to right : Piz Chalchagn,
Tschierva, Morteratsch, Bernina, Scerscen, Roseg, Sella, Glii-
schaint, Monschia, and Chapiltschin ; between the Morteratsch and
Bernina the Fuorcla Prievlusa, between the Scerscen and Roseg,
the Porta Roseg, and between the Roseg and Sella, the Sella-Pass).
— For the glacier itself a guide is necessary (to be had at the inn):
a footpath on the right side of the Roseg brook leads by the Alp
Misaum to the (1 hr.) Mar gum Misaum (7396') and thence across
the glacier to the rocky hill of Agagliouls (farthest point, 8780'),
IV2 ^^' ; view grander and more complete than from the Alp Ota.
An admirable survey of the glacier is also obtained from the Alp
Burov^l (7424' j milk), «/4 hr. from the Roseg Restaurant, on the way to
the Fuorcla BurleJ (p. 377). -- An attractive path, commanding splendid
views, leads from the Alp Ota along the slope to the (2hrs.) Kortel Club
Hut (7907*). grandly situated, the starting-point for Piz Roseg, the Sella
■Pass, etc. From the hut across the Roseg Glacier to the rock of Agagliouls
1 A hr. J back to the Roseg Rest. 2hrs.; a very fine round, with guide (10 fr.).
Mountain Ascents. The most interesting short excursion is the
ascent of the ♦Bohafberg ( Afitnt deUa Bescha; bridle-path in 2V2 hrs. 5
guide unnecessary;. Good paths lead from the church and the H6tel
^oseg to the hill Crast' Ota (fine views), and unite a little
higher up. We then ascend through wood to (11/4 hr.) the last
bench on the hillside (about 7300'), an admirable point of view.
At our feet lie Pontresina and the picturesque snow-girt Roseg
384 BouU102. PONTRESINA. Pi% Languard,
valley, bounded by the Piz Rosatsch on the right and the Piz
Ghalchagn on the left, with the glistening peaks of the Sella, Piz
Gluschaint, the Monica or Monschia, and the Chaputschin in the
background; adjoining the Piz Ghalchagn on the right is the Piz
Morteratsch, on the left the Bellayista, Piz Palu, Piz Cambrena,
and Munt Pers, and Sassal Masone ; then the Languard valley vrith
the Paradies and the Piz Albris ; to the right, below us , at the
foot of the Rosatsch , are the sombre little Lake of Statz and the
blue Lake of St. Moritz; above these rise the mountains on the
N. side of the Inn, Piz Lunghino, Lagrev, Albana, Julier, Nair, Ot,
and the serrated Grasta Mora near the Albula Pass. — From this
point a bridle-path ascends in iVi ^* to the top of the hill (8966').
View grander and more extensive, embracing the whole Bemina
group (beside the peaks already mentioned we see , beginning at
the Bellavista, the Piz Zupd, Argient, Grastaguzza, Piz Bernina,
Piz Bianco, Mte. di Scerscen, Piz Morteratsoh, Piz Roseg; on the
other side of the Roseg valley, Piz Gorvatsch, and Piz Surlej), Piz
Uertsch, Piz Kesch, to the right of the Albula , the valley of the
Inn as far as Maloja (with the lakes of Gampfdr and Sils), and im-
mediately to the E. Las Srurora ('te« sceura' ; W. peak, 9780',
ascended from the Schafberg in ^^ hr. by a new path). — A path
descends the N. side of the Schafberg in zigzags to the bleak
Muraigl VaUey (^/z hr. to the bridge), which is shut in by the
Piz Muraigl (10,360') and the Piz Vadret (10,400'). Thence ascent
of the Muottaa Muraigl in 36 min. ; to Pontreaina, 1^4 hr.
The ^Kuottas Muraigl (8270'; 2 hrs. ; easy and attractive; guide un-
necessary; horse 10 fr.) is also often ascended from Pontresina; comp.
p. 860. — A good bridle-path gradually a«cends to the left beyond the
Hotel Boseg, and skirts the slope of the Schafberg through wood to the
dVi hr.) Lower Muraigl Alp (7216') in the Vol Muraiffl, where it divides.
The shorter but worse branch ascends very steeply to the left to the
(I/2 hr.) Upper Atp (7990'); the right branch goes straight on for some di-
stance, then turns to the left by a rained hut, and reaehes the upper
Alp, in '/« br. The best point of view is beside a stone figure, 10 min.
farther on, where the new path from Samaden ends Cp> 380). — From the
Muottas back to the Val Muraigl and thence to the top of the ScJu^fhtrg
i^'i hr. ; over the Schafberg to Pontresina, 3 hrs. : see above.
*Piz Languard (10,716'; 3-4, descent 2-5Vj hrs. ; guide 8 fr.,
advisable for novices and after snow ; horse to the foot of the peak
10 fr.), fatiguing, but in fine weather, deservedly a favourite point
of view. We start early, in order to avoid the mists which often
rise about 9 a.m. ; and in this case the path is in shade as far as thd
foot of the peak. From Upper Pontresina we follow the principal
path, to the left, passing the small burial-chapel, and ascend the
stony slope in zigzags, to the (1 hr.) Alp Languard {7&72' •, au-
berge, dear). - From Lower Pontresina the shortest route leads to
the left, behind the H6tel Languard, across the pastures. Beyond
the Alp we ascend the bleak Languard Valley, to the (1 V4 ^^0 ^^^^
(9088') of the Languard peak, where the bridle-path ends. A steep
zigzag path over debris and rock leads hence to the (O/s hr.) sum-
IF
-/
DiavoUzza. PONTRESINA. i02. RouU, 385
mit, on whicli rise an iron flagstaff and a trigonometrical signal
(^wine, coffee, etc., moderate). The view (comp. Panorama) extends
to the S.W. as far as Mte. Rosa, to the S.E. to the Adamello, to the
N.W. to the Todi, and to the N.E. to the Zngspitze. Except St.
Moritz with its green lake, Gampfdr, and Celerina, no human abodes
are visible.
Mountaineers mav deaeend across the Languard Olacier and past the
little Laitt Pischa (9121')) which is sometimes frosen over until late in sum-
mer, to the Val del Fain (p. 8di) and the QVt hrs.) Bemina houses (guide
11 fr.). In descending we keep several hundred paces to the right of the
-waterfall which issues from the lake, as all the other descents are very
steep and difficult. — From the Languard Alp we may ascend the Paun
daZftcher (pain deiuere; 2i/t hrs., guide 15 fr.>, and PiiAlbris (10,387';
3 hrs., guide 20 fr.); both fatiguing.
The *Diavolezsft Tour (9-10 hrs.; guide 12 fr.) is one. of the
finest and least fatiguing of glacier-excursions, and is often made.
To shorten the walk we drive from Pontreslna to the Bemina Houses
(6723'; 5 M.; one-horse carr. 6 fr.). If the night be spent here, a
guide must be brought from Pontreslna. The path (practicable for
riding for 1 hr.) ascends pastures and stony slopes to the (1^2 ^^0
picturesque little Viavolezza Lake (8463'), and then over loose
stones and a gradual slope of snow to the (1^2 ^^0 ViavoUzza Pass
(9767'), to the S.E. of Munt Pen (*loBt mountain*, 10,533'). Su-
perb *View of the neighbouring Bemina group : from left to right,
Piz Cambrena, Palii, Bellavlsta, Grastaguzza, Bemina, Morteratsch,
and Tschlerva ; below us he the Pers and Morteratsch glaciers.
Steep descent over d^ris to the moraine of the Per$ Olacier; then
across the glacier to the (1 hr.) rocky Itla Persa; lastly down the
Pers Glacier, across the medial moraine to the Morteratsch Olacier,
and down the latter to the (21/2 hrs.) Hdtel Morteratsch (p. 382).
Fix Bosatach (9626'; 1-5 hrs. ; guide lOfr.) and Pis Ohalohagn (lO.SIS';
5-6 hrs.; guide 15 fr.), without special interest. — «Fii Burlej (10,456';
5-6 hrs.; lOfr.), an admirable point, is best ascended from the Ada dMm Lej
on the Lake of St. Moritz, over the SteUz Alp, or from Silvaplana (4-4V3^^8.;.
— "Pis Oorvatach (11,345'; 51/2-6 hrs.; guide 14. back by Silvaplana 16,
by Sils 20 fr.), somewhat laborious. From the (4VsH.) Rot€g Inn (p. 383;
spend night) we ascend to the (V4 hr.) Alp SurovH and follow the Surlej
route to the (Vshr.) highest chalet (ATar^tfm iStera, 8000*) ; then turn to the
left towards a snow-peak visible to the S.W., and ascend grassy and stony
slopes to the (i hr.) Corvatsch or Alp Ota Olaeier. Lastly up the glacier,
the crevasses of which require caution , to the (2 hrs.) summit , covered
with rocks, and generally free from snow. The guides usually halt on
the Fix Morm (11,293'), but it is preferable to go on to the (>/4 hr.) high-
est peak, where the view to the S.W. is far more picturesque. The great
attraction of the view consists in the double survey, to the E. and S.E.,
of the imposing Bemina amphitheatre, and, to the W., of the green £n-
gadine with its villages and lakes immediately below us. Distant view
very extensive, like that from Piz Languard; on the S.W. it extends to the
Monte Viso. Descent by the Fuorela Surlej to Silvaplana (comp. p. 3T7).
The descent on the W. side by Martnorh to (3 hrs.) Sils, for experts only,
is steep and trying.
The *Fii Korteratsch (12,316'; 6 hrs. from the Roseg Inn ; guide
30 fr.), though requiring a steady head, is the easiest of the higher peaks,
but difficult when there is little snow. — Ohapfttschin (11,133'), 8-9 hrs.,
or from the 3Iortel Hut 4 hrs.; guide 25, with descent to Fex 30 fr. —
Baedbker, Switzerland. 12th Edition. 25
S86 Route 102. PONTRESmA. Piz Bemina.
Tim TscliierT* (li,713', 6-6 hrs. from^he RoAeg Ian; guide 20 fr.), fatigu-
ing, but repaying. — La Sell* (ll^TTOj S-9 hrs i from the Mortel Hut 4 hrs.^
guide SO fr.) and Piz Olliichaint (ll,o06'; same time and fee) are not diffi-
cult, but require experience — *7ii Palfl (12,8360, cOaspieuOuB for the
beauty of iU form aad the purity of ita fnow, from the Be^nina honsea
7-8, from Boval 7, or from the Capanna HaripeUi (see bejow) 6 hrs., trying,
but with fTOod guides (flOfr. each) free from danger. Prom the first (E.)
peak (12,755') a narrow ardte , descending perpendicularly on the 6. side
(steady head necessarv), leada to Uie donUerpeaked second (12,^0') and to
the third peak (12,&46«). Experts may descend by the BeUttvista Saddle
and the Fe$tun^ to the Mortttaiteh OlaoUr (to the Hotel Morteratseh
5-6 hrs., guide 60 fr.>. -^ «Pii JEn^i CF«r6or^« Horm\ 13,120'), from the
Boval hut 6-7< or from the Capaana Mirinelli by the CrtutagHtza Saddle
in 4-9 hrs., toilsome (guide 50 fr.); panorama of surpassing grandeur. —
Orast'agilnn.' ^I9d% a ridge between Pia Bemina and Pis Zup^, rising
almost perpendicularly from the glaci^ 1^18 hrs., difficult, but most
interesting (firat ascended in 1865 -^^uiAe 80ir.)u
The Pit Bernina (13,294'; 8-10 hrs. from the Boral Hut-, guide TOfrj,
the hi^est peak of the group, firstiiBcendedln J860, is very difficult, and
should ^e attempted by none but thorough experts. The rtmte ascends,
according to the state of the snow, either direct through the central ice-
fall of the Horteratsch (>lacler (the ''Lab!^nth\ recently fallen in), and
over rock and glacier to the right ; or by the so-called If^ulung or For--
tetta to a bnain of snow betrareea Pi» Beisina and Cra^ti^uMa, and
thence by the arSte fro^n the S.E. side to the- top. The ascent is
rather easier from the S. side (From the C<q>anna MartnetU^ see below, over
the OraMiag'Qzza Sdddlk)^ 6-7' hrs.). A nbw roF«te, aeoomplished in 1880,
shorter but mor^ di^cnlt, iA fsom the X»«k$9^a Glftfi*r and up the W.
slope.- The very difficult ascent from the N. side, made for the first time
in 1878, lead^ by the Fkorcla Prlevlusa^ the Bizzo Bianco (13,117'), and the
B^rnina-Stharte. '— SiiW more difficult peaks are Pn Kese* (12,966'; 9>10
hrs. frum.the ICor^l Htrt ; goude: 80 fr.)^ fimt asoendei in 186^, and Xonte
di Beeracen (13^1^'^, ascended for the fiisst time in 1877 by Dr. Gussfeldt,
Between Monte di Scerscen and Piz Roseg lies the extremely difficult
Porta da Roseg {Fuorcla T9cfkerva-8e€r»eitn or ChittfeldUattel^ lt,573'),
first crossed by Or. OHisifeidt in. 1872.
Passss. Frou PoffTEKSi^^ TO 8iLs, scvcral routes. The easiest (but
rather trying ; 9 ^rs. ^ guide 18 fr.) crosses the Puorcln da Fex-Koieg
(10,112'). J^tom' the Mortfel Hut (p. 888 •, 4»/2 hrs. from Pontresinal we
ascend to the "W. Over d^ris and snow to the (2 hrs.) pass (splendid
view); then a steep and toilsome descent to the L^ SifrUchut^ well
stocked with trout, and either into the Ftx Valley and to Vurtim (p. 376),
or to the right by Marmhri to (2'/2 hrs.) Silt-Maria Op. 376). ~ FVom
Pontresina to Slls over the CTha^tschin Paas (10,5900, between the Gha-
putschin and Honschia, or over the Puorcla Ollisehaint (about 11,000%
between the Honschia and PI? Olttschftjnt, for experts onlv, difficult
(guide 35 fr.).
Over th£ Sella Pass to the Tal HXlenco, grand and interesting,
but trying (from the MottM Hut to Fellftria 8-9, to (Thiesa 12-13 hrs.;
guide to Poschiavo or Chiesa, or back to Fontresina by the (^ambrena
or Bellavista Saddle, SO fr.) From the Xort^I Hut we a&cend behind the
A<:a^liouIs rock and ov6r ttie crevass6d Boseg or Sella Olaeifr to the
(3-3V2 hrs.) flelU Paaa {Fuorcla Stlla^ 10,843'), lying to the S.W. of the
huge rock and ice- precipices of Piz Roseg (12,936'). Descent over the
Scerscen Glacier^ with splendid views of the S. side of the Bemina group
(Mte. di Scerscen, Piz Bernina, Grastagti^£a , Zupd, and Ute. Nero and
Di8gra(zia to the right), and across a snow-aaddle running out from Piz
Zup6 to the left of which, on the rock higher up, is the Capanna MarinelU,
see below), to the n6y€ of the Fellaria Glacier; then down the right side
of the glacier, over rock and debris to the (4-5 hrs. from the pass) Fel-
laria Chalets in the VaJ Campo Moro (7338' ; poor, occupied in the height
of summer only). Thence down the Yal Lantema to Lantada and (4 hrs.)
Chiesa in the Yal JfaUnco (p. 397). — Instead of going to Chiesa, the tra-
Sella Pass. PONTRESINA. 102. Route. 387
veller may prefer to complete the Circuit ot^- Piz Beknina and return to
Pontresina. In this case we do not descend to the Fellaria Chalets. On
the upper part of the Scerscen Glacier we keep to the left, again ascend,
and reach (1V2~2 ^"^^ ^tobi the Sella Pass) the 0«panna Karinelli, a club-
hut of the I. A..C«, aitoated oA the rocks ruaning out from the Piz Zup6
(about 9840'), between the Scerscen and Fellaria glaciers. 3 hrs. above the
Fellaria Chalets. This is the starting-point for the Piz Bernina, Palii,
etc. (p. 986). The direct route hence Back to PomtresiNa, over the
Fuorola B«lUviste (12,078') , between the Bellavista acdd Pie Pslti , and
down by the #'orU<ra (p. 386) and the MorteraUch OUuier^ 9-10 hrs., is
laborious (guide 60ff.). — To trs Bbbsina Hospice ovbbthe CAaiBSKA Pass,
8*9 hrs., fatiguing, but repaying (guide 50 fr.). From the Fellaria Glacier we
cross a saddle of nev^ on the 8. side of Piz Palii, to the PalU Olaeier, skirt
the slopes of Piz Palu aatd Pig CtMidrMa (11,834*), und reach the Gambrena
Pass (11,250*), between Piz Cambrena and Piz Carale. Descent O^er the Ottm-
brena Olacie$* to the Lago Veto (p. 894) and the Bernina Hespiee. During
the ascent a vi«w extending from M te. della Disgrasia to the snow-mount-
ftins of the Oetzthal is gradually revealed. This route i» easier in the
reverse direction, a night being spent at the Bernina hottsea or the hos-
pice. In this case, too, the place exposed to foils of ice ia passed early
in the morning. •^ Experts may, without difficulty, descend from the
SBOw-saddle on the side of Pie Palii (see above) direct to the PalU Glacier,
avoiding the ehasms in the nev^ by keeping to the left, and then over
turf and rock , past the Ba*sal Maione , to the Btm'na Bodice (7-8 hrs.
fron Iftie'Capa^naVarinemi 12*13 hrs, from theMortel Kut; guide 50 fr.).
To PosGHuvo a route leads from Fellaria to the £. over the Fasao
Bovano or Gonftnale (85£0'), apd through the Vol Orse, in B\/2 hrs. ^ an-
other Crosses the Oanciano Pass 0360*; comp. p. 997), lying farther S.
(also 3V2 hrs.). To reach the l»ttet pass from the Fellaria Chalets we
descend a little over old moraines of the Fellaria Glacies; and then
ascend to the left through the Val Posch'aritia to the (Vj2hT.) pass, where
we have a fine survey of the Fellaria and "Verona Glaciers, or Mte. della
Diilgrazfa to the W. and tiie Candano Glacier to the S. Descent by the
Alp cTUr (6348') ajid through the Val di GoU to (2 hrs.) Poickkivo (p. 396).
From Poittbbszna to Malrmoo over thr Chapdt«c«im Pass avp the
Fuobcla FRK-S«ais(tsv , 12-13 hrs. from the Mortel Hut (guide 60 fr.), a
toilsome route, for experts only. Over the ChapUUchin Pass or the Fuorcla
QlUseha'nt to the Fez GlofiUr (difficult descent), see above. Instead of
descending to the right to the Fex Valley, we turn to the left to the
snowy saddle of the Fktorcla Fex-Seerscen and then descend the Scersctn
Glacier to the Val ifalenco (p. 997).
103. From Samadea to Hauders. Lower Engadine.
50 M. Diu»Rlic& from Samaden. to Schuls twiee daily in SVahrs. (13 fr*
55, coupd 16 fr. 26ci)5 from Schuls to Xauders once daily in SVshrs. (6fr.
50, coup^ 7fr. 80 c.). (Diligence in connection to Landeck, p. 403.) Extra-
Post and pair from Samaden to Schuls 66 fr. 80 e.; carr. with one horse
from Taraap to .Samaden 36, to Pontresina 40 6\
Below Samaden (5670') we enjoy a grand panorama : the valley,
2 M. broad, is endo^d by huge snow-rclad mountains, and the
broad glittering bosoms of two glaciers are visible towards the S.
V/i^L Bww»(5640'5 Sehmid's Jnn), a thriving village, lies
at the loot of the indented Cra^ta Mora (p. 367). Hr, Krdttli , a
botanist, sells dried plants here» Through the Val Bever and Val
Suvreita to St* Moriti^ see p. 379. The road passes the (8/4 M.)
Agnas Inn, and leads along the artificial bed of the river Inn to
(13/4 M.) -
26*
I
■ t
388 Boutt 103. ZUZ. From Samaden
4 M. Ponta (5548'; *Albula, R., L., & A. ^'/jfr.; ♦JTron^, l>e-
yond the bridge), at the beginning of the Albfda Boute (R. 98). On
the oppoBite bank, at the base of Piz Mezaun, lies Campovasto, or
Camogase, at the entrance to the narrow Vol CKamuera, On 9th March.
1799, the Austrians and French disputed possession of the bridge
for 6 hrs. on the frozen surface of snow 6' deep.
^'Ximt KflMlla (86320, on the right bank of the Ina, to the S.E. of
Ponte, is easily ascended in 2y« hra. (gnide desirable) ; beautifal view. —
Pis U^rtaoh {AWulahom^ 10,738') is ascended from the Albnla Pass in 3 hrs.;
a fatiguing clamber over rock, requiring a steady head*, splendid view
(guide 35 fr.). — *FiB Kaaeh (11,2280, from Hadulein through the Val tTE-
Bch^'a in 6 hrs., without difficulty for adepts (guide 40 fr.); superb view
(comp. p. 3^.
Fbom Poxte to Liviono (6 hrs.) a bridle-path; guide desirable. We
ascend the Val Chanuura to the (li/s hr.) chalets of SerUu (6634'), where
the Val Lavirum diverges ; then rapidly throu^ the latter to the (2V9 hrs.)
FuorcU Lavirum (9260') , between (r.) Pit Lavirum rt0,020^: s/4 hr. from
the pass; splendid view of the OrUer) and (1.) Pig Ca$anMa (B616'). Then
a steep descent into the Val Federia. After 1 hr. the path descending from
the Gasanna Pass (see below) on the left Joins our route; 1 hr., JA'wigno
(6146'; Sdteld: Pmt, Alpfna\ plain, well epoken of), flntiy situated in the
valley of that name, on the J9p9l. Thence to Bormi^f see p. 399.
The road follows the left bank of the Inn to ^/^ M.) XadiUein
r5515'), with the rnin of Ouardaval on a steep rock to the left
(5873'; ascent 1/4 ^-'y auberge; •View), erected in 1251 by Bishop
Volkard to 'guard the valley'. Then (IV4 M.) —
6 M. Znx (5548'; pop. 420; Concordia, pens. 71/2-91/2 fr.;
Schweizerhund Mid Weisacs Kreuz, plain; PoiMj pens. 872 fr.), with
an old tower ('Tuor^), said to be the remains of a mansion of the
Planta^s. The climate becomes milder, and com-flelds appear.
*n* Oriatsflheula (9764*3 4 hrs.), not difficult; extensive view. Descent
by the Val StOtatma to Capella (see below). — Pts Kasaim or Mtttem
(yTTT', 6 hrs.; guide), easy; very fine view.
Near (1 M.) Seaafi (5413'; Stem; Steinboek) the Inn is crossed
by a handsome bridge, but the road follows the left bank.
To the right opens the Val Oaaana, whence a bridle-path crosses the
Catana Pats (8832'; splendid view) to Livigno (7 hrs. ; without guide). The
pass lies between Pit Catana (10,060') and Pit Ceuemella (96160, both easily
ascended, the former better from the Val Trupchum^ on the N. side.
On the right rises Piz d'Esen (10,270'). Below (II/2 M.) CapeUa
the road crosses the SuUanna, (Through the Val StUsanna and over
the Sccdetta and Sertig passes to Davos, see p. 341.) We next tra-
verse a pine-dad gorge of the Inn. Below Cinuskd (5302^), near
Brail (Kreuz), the Punt Ota, a bridge over a brook emerging from
the Val Puntota , separates the Upper from the Lower Engadine.
At the end of the gorge we have a fine view of the river and the
handsome wooden bridge (4890') which carries the road to the right
bank. Through the opening of the valley we see th« Aftint delta
Baselgia and the Piz Nvna (see below). Near (8^/2 M.) Zemett the
valley expands into a wide and partially cultivated basin, in which
lies the scattered village with its slender spire. To the N. appetrs
the peculiar furrowed snow-roof of Pi% Linard (see below).
17 M. Zeniet«(4910'; pop. 540; *Bar, first class), at the influx
1
if
1^
If
0.
to Nauderf. LAVIN. 103. Route. 389
of the dark 8pdl into the Inn, with a handsome church of 1623 and
the ancestral Planta-Wildenberg chateau , has been almost entirely
rebuilt since a fire in 1872.
Xunt della BaMglia (^8ff\ 4 hrs. ; guide 5fr.), Pis d'ArpiglU (9944';
5 hrg. ; 6fr.), and Pis Nuna (10,262'; 6 hrfl. ; 8fr.) are aseeaded from Zer-
netz (all rather trying). — Pis Buraura (10,42(7; 6-7 hrs.; 12 fr.), through
the Vol Sursura and over the glacier of that name, fatiguing.
Fbou Zeknetz to Munsteh (241/2 M. ; diligence daily in 6 hrs.). The
road, attractive even for walkers, gradually aacends on the right bank of
the Spdl through the wild wooded defile of La SerrOy crossing several
ravines (Val da Bareli, Val Laschadura) and the wooded plateau of Champ
Seek to the (5Vs M.) bridge over the Ova dTSpin (599T). Beyond the bridge
the old bridle-path (recommended to good walkers) ascends in a straight
direction over the hill of Champ Uing and through the Val Flur to the
Ofen Inn, while the new road makes a long circuit to the right, skirting
the wooded hill of Crastalscha. We cross the (2V4 M.) Ova del Fuorn
(5610'), in its wild wooded ravine. (A bridle-path to the right leads
hence through the wild Sp<hal to Livigno in 31/2 hrs., p. 388.) The road
leads on the left bank of the Ova del Fuorn, crosses it, and reaches (I'/i H.)
the *'Inn on the Ofenberg {11 Fuorn, 0920*). It next passes the mouth of
the Val del Botsch, from which an easy route leads to Tareup (p. 391) in
6 hrs. over the Furcletta (8786') and through the Val Plafna. Passing the
Val da Stavelchod and Val JfUglia, we now ascend the marshy Alp Buffalora
to the (5 H.) Ofen Pats {SU Som, 7070'), with fine view of the Ortler.
(Thence across the Buffalora Pass to the Fraele Valley and Bormio, p. 399.)
We descend through stone-pines to (3 M.) Cier/s (5460'; *Alpenrose), in
the Xiinsterthal, or Val Mustair, watered by the Rambach. ifhen (li/x M.)
Fuldera (to the left above .which lies M , p. 392) , (2 H.) Valcava , and
dVs M.) St. Maria (Weisses Kreuz; Hz Umbrail). From St. Uaria to (2 H.)
MUnster and (9V2 l^O Mais, see p. 402. Over the Wormser Jock to Bormio,
see p. 400 ; through the Scarlthal to Bchuls, see p. 392.
Fbom Zernetz to Liviqmo over the Passo del SiaTel (9236') 9-10 hrs., a
fatiguing route, little frequented (guide 20 fr.). The path ascends the path-
less Val Cluoxza and the wild Val del Diavel to the ice-clad pass, to the
W. of the Pis delV Acqua (10,260'). Descent through the Val Fiera to
Livigno (p. 388).
Fbom Zernetz to Boruio via Buffalora, see p. 399. A shorter route
(9V2-10 hrs. to Bormio, guide necessary) diverges to the right from the
Miinsterthal road beyond the bridge over the Fuorn, and leads by the La
Schera Al pand 8. Oiacomo di Fraele to the Scale di Fraele and Bormio.
Below Zernetz the road recrosses the Inn (behind rises the Piz
Quatervals, 10,355'), and enters a narrow, pine-clad gorge, extend-
ing as far as (81/2 M.) —
2OV2M. BfLM, Rom. ^ti4c&(4688'; H6t,Bhatia, well spoken
of; Schweiterhof; B6t. Fluela, plain ; brewery by the bridge). To
the right rise Pis Mesdi and Piz (TArpiglia. The ruins of a castle
(Fortezza), perhaps of Roman origin, crown a hill rising from the val-
ley to the £. (^Fluela Road to Davos, see p. 339 ; Vereina Pass to
Klosters, see p. 338.) Then over the Sagliains brook to (2 M.) —
221/2 M. Lavin (4690'; *Piz Linard, R., L., & A. 21/2 fr.; Stein-^
bock ; Weissts Kreuz), at the mouth of the Val Lavinuot, To the
S.W. is the large Sursura Glacier (see above).
Excursions. (Guide Jos. Wieser and others.) Sass Auta (2 hrs.) and
Murtira (3 hrs.), both easy and interesting. — Through the Val Lavinuoe
to the Tiatscha GlacUr, 3 hrs., also attractive. — Pis Xesdi (9593'; guide
10 fr.) is ascended through the Val Zeznina in 5 hrs., the last part rather
steep. Splendid view of the Engadine, the Silvretta, etc. The Val Zeznina
ends, 4 hrs. from Lavin, in the mountain-basin of Macvn (SWB*)? with
390 Route 103. ARDETZ. Froxn Samaden
iU small glaciers and six little lakes, environed by Piz d'Arpiglia, Munt
della Baseglia, and Piz Macun. — *Pii Linard (11,207'i 6-7 hrs. ; guide 20 fr.).
the highest peak of the Silvretta group, affording a most superb panorama,
is trying and fit for experts only. Bridle-nath to the (3 hrs.) Alp Glims,
with a poor reftige^hut ^ thence to the top 34 hrs. (the last 1 Va hr. steep and
toilsome). — From Lavin to Klosters over fhe Y^meUt Pat*, see p. 338.
Tbe right bank of the Inn, generally steep, affords few sites
for villages, while on the left bank , on broad , sunny heights, lie
Lavin, Quarda, and Ardetz, said to be of Etruscan origin, pictur-
esquely commanded by towers and ruined castles. The Inn flows
through a deep gorge, swelled by many brooks descending from la-
teral valleys.
Beyond Lavin the road leads through a rocky gateway, and near
(2 M.) Oiarsun crosses the mouth of the Val Tuoi fp. 405).
A road to the left ascends to (IV4 ^0 O-uarda (5413 'i ^'Sonne^ good
wine; Osteria Silvretta), prettily situated, which, is reached (I hr.) m.ore
pleasantly by the old road gradually ascending from Lavin. The ascent
of Pig Cotschen (9938'} 5 hra., guide 10 fr.) and of *Pa Buin (10,915'i 6 hrs.;
25 fr.), a magnificent point, is recommended. — To Klosterg over the Sil-
vretta Pass, see p. 333 *, to the Montavon over the Veitnu/U Pass, see p. 405.
— From Guarda the old road descends to Boschia and Ardetz in 1 hr.
Walkers bound for Schuls will find it better to follow the old road by
Fettan (keep up to the left, at a point V4 hr. beyond Boschia), which bend's
into the Val Tasna at the ruined houses of Canova, and shortly afterwards
joins the new road from Ardetz. From Guarda to Fettan 2Vs hrs.
The road ascends , skirts a bleak, stony slope high above the
Inn, enters a pleasant lareh-wood, and then traverses meadows and
fields to (3 M.) —
271/2 M. Ardeti, Ger. 5/ei»M6erp (4826'; pop. 633; Pinotsch).
picturesquely situated, and commanded by the ruin of Steintiberg^
with its well-preserved tower.
A road (diligence every afternoon in 1 hr.) commanding fine views
leads from Ardetz, across the Val Tasna (picturesque view at the bridge),
and up the sunny pastures on the K. side of the valley, to (3^/4 M.) Fettan
(5404'i "^Pinoesch; Vidoria), largely rebuilt since a fire in lffl5, charmingly
situated, with beautiful woods and pleasant walks. [A path diverging to
the right s/4 M. before the road reaches Fettan leads to the Parodies, a
pasture with a splendid view, whence a path leads to Fettan in 10 min.]
MuoUa NaluM and Pit Qlibia, see p. 391. Road from Fettan to Schuls, 3 M.
The wild Val Tasna, with its woods and pastures, ascends, between (1.)
Piz Cotschen (9938') and (r.) Pit Minschun (10,076') for 3 hrs., and then
divides into (I.) the Val Urexas and (r.) the Val Urschai. From the latter
a difficult path crosses the ice-clad FutscMl Pass (9078*), with fine views
of the hug« Fluchthom (11,142'), to the Tyrolese Jaimthdl^ to the Jamthal
Club Hut, and to (8-9 hrs.) OaliUr in the Paiznaun (p. 405).
Beyond Ardetz the road traverses stony slopes, and is hewn in
the rock at places. From a bend we obtain a most picturesque view
of Schloss Tarasp; to the right, on the S. hank of the Inn, rise Piz
Plafna, Piz Pis6c, Lischanna, and Ayutz. The road then describes a
wide curve, enters the deep Val Tasna (see above), and crosses it by
a stone bridge. The road leads high above the deep wooded gorge
of the Inn. To the right a fine view of the sombre, pine -clad
Val Plafna, from which the Plafna emerges , with the Piz Plafna
Dadaint (10,413') in the background. In the foreground, on the
Tight bank of the Inn, is Schloss Tarasp. The road then descends
to Naudtn. TABASP. 103, Routt. 3*91
to the Inn, passes at the back of Kurhaus Tarasp (post-station), and
ascends to (6V2 M.) —
34 M. Schnls. — '^Hot. Belvedkse , with the dependance Pemion
Belvedere and a fme garden, in Unter-Sehuls, pens. 8-13 ft. ; Post, R., L.,
41. A. 4. D. 4, S. 2Vs ir.i «Hot.-Pen8. Sobuls; "Hdsr. Konz ^Zwn Pin CMam-
paUch\ B. 2, D. 2 fr. 80, S. 2 £r. 20 1., B. 1, board 5 fr.) Krone, plain; all
these at Ober^Schuls; at Vnter-Schuls, Hsly^txa, mod^r^te. — The inn-
keepers at SchuLs provide conveyances gratis to take visiiora to the Baths
of Tarasp every half-hour.
SohuU (3970'; pop. 913), Rom. ^caol^ the capital of the Lower
Engadlne, pietoresqnely dittiated opposite a noble range of moun-
tains extending from Piz Lat to Piz Plafna, consists of Upper and
Lovjtf Sehulif between which the high-road runs. In the Ticinity
are several chalybeate sprinfs. The most important are the Wih-
queUe, with an interesting hill of iron-ore, 10 min. to the N. of
Hdt. K5nz, and the SotaoAs-QudUj a little to the E. of Schuls, on
the way to Sins. To the right of t^e old road to Fettan, 20 min. W.
of H6t. Konz, are several small 'mofettes' or gaseous cavities. The
new Bath House at Schuls is supplied by these springs.
On the high-TOad, 1 M. to the W. of Sehuls are the SatlM of Ta-
rasp ^3890'), on the left bank of the Inn (*£ttrA<iu9, R., L., & A.
from 0, B. IV2, !>• 5j ^oard Ti/su ^sitors' tax 14 fr,). The Lucius
and Emerita springs , both containing salt and carbonate of soda,
are those chiefly used for drinking. The baths are supplied with
«}baltbeate water from the TFihquelle. Piitet and telegraph offices
in the house. Physicians , Dr. Killias , Dr. Pernisch, an4 Dr. A
Porta. A. covered wooden bridge leads from the Kurhaus to the
springs on the right bank (Trinkhalle and amall bazaar), and a good
road ascends thence in zigzags to the (Y2 M.) village of Vnlpera
(4183'), prettily situated on sunny pastures^ and also frequented by
patients (^Pens. BeUevue, with d^pendaince, 9 fr.; *T<U & Alptwrose
71/2-872^^.; ♦Conradin, 71/2 f^.; *^<*WAflru«, 8 fr., prettily si-
tuated , 7-9 fr.). — The direct path Uom Schuls to (Vi^'O Vulpera
and Tarasp diverges to the left from the road at the W. end of
Schuls, crosses the Inn above the Junction of the Clemgia and then
divides, the right branch skirting the Inn to (1/2 hr.) Tarasp , the
left branch ascending through wood to (V2 !»'•) Vnlpera.
Envisoks. The handsome Oattle of Taniap (49120i 1 hr. from Vul-
pera, now dilapidated, was the residence of the Austrian governors down
to 1803. A good road leads round its 1^. base to the hamlets of Florins
(with Kurhans), and (1 hr.) Fontana (4596'; Hdtel Tarasp), at the 8.W.
base) , with a Capuchin monastery and a small lake . Pleasant walk
thence to the (IV2 hr.) Alp Laiseh (5998'; milk), at the entrance to the
picturesque Val Plafna. — Beautiful view from the ^'Kreuebergj especially
by evening light (ft>om Fontana past the castle of Tarasp and vid.
Spersih^ 1/4 hr. 5 from Vulpera direct, 1 hr.). — Pretty walk firom Vulpera
to the sequestered farm of (35 min.) Avrona (4760'), situated above the deep
Clemgia gorge and at the base of the Piz Pisoc,, and to the small dark-green
Schtffarze See^ 20 min. higher, where we obtain a fine view of Pi? Linard.
Road from Schuls to (4V2M.) Fettan, see p. 390-, a fdotpath leads past
the WihqnelU. and along the edge of the wood In IV4 hr.
Ascents (guides, Joh. Ranch. Jak. Bisch^ff, Jak. and Ed. Truog, and
Jak. Widal). To the N. of Schuls rises the grassy Muotta Naluna (7030' •
392 BouU103. SCABL. Frcm Samaden
guide, not inditfpensable, 6*8 fr.), asceniled in 3 hrs. (or from Fettan in 1 Vs br.).
View limited; better from the Pis OUna (7874'), a spur of the liinschun^
farther W. (from the Muotta Xaluns in 1 hr.,from Fettan b^ the Alp Laret^
2i/s hrs.: guide 10 fr.)- — More extensive panorama from Fia Ckiampatach
(958(y; 5 hrs. from Schuls; guide 12 fr.), by the Alp CkiampaUeh^ and
thence round the summit, ascending finally on the £. side. The direct as-
cent from the S. is steep, stony, and tiring.
«Pis LiaohaiUM (10,181'; 6 hrs.; guide 15 fr.) is perhaps the finest point
of view near Schuls. From the Scarlthal road (see below), at the second bend,
we diverge to the left by a steep forest-path to 8t. Jon^ with the rains of
a house. Here we turn to the left and skirt the base of the Pit St. Jon^
then ascend through pastures and wood in the Foi XMcAmifMi, to (3 hrs.)
a Ri/uge-hut (about 6560'; very poor quarters) on the Sehafalp. The path
then ascends a stony slope in long zigzags, passing the Lischanna Cflaeier
on the right, above us, and skirting steep rocks at placet, to the (3 hrs.) iron
vans on the top. The view is superb : immediately in the foreground riee the
bare and riven peaks of the Pis St. Jon, Ayutx, and Pisoc ; Car below lies the
green Engadine from Lavin to M artinsbruck ; to the 8. are the Ortler, the
Valtellina Alps, and the Bemina; in the distance, to the W., the Bernese
Alps, the T(>di, and nearer us Pia Linard and Pis Buin ; to the N. the Augsten-
berg, Fluchthom, and the distant Wettersteingebirge with the Zugspitze^
to the B. the Oetzthal Mts. with the Wildspitze and Weisskugel, and fkrther
distant the fantastic Dolomites. — Adepts (with guide, 26^0 fr.) descend the
lAtchanmt Oiader to the Fo^ SteMVinna and Swrl (13 hrs.; see below).
Pit Pisoe (10»427'; 7 hrs.; guide 25 fir.). Pi* Plafna Dadainl (10,413^
8 hrs.; 30 fr.), and Piz Seetvema (10,565'; 8 hr8;;v25 fr.; night spent at Scarl),
all difficult, are for experts only. PCs St. Jon (9980'; 8 hrs. ; 15 fr.). Pit Min-
schun (10,076'; 6 hrs. ; 10 fr.), and Pi$ Forat (10,150'; 7 hrs., 15 fr.) are less
difficult.
FaoM ScHULB TO St. M abia in tbls MfiNSTSBTiUX. , through the Bearl-
thal, 8 hrs., interesting (gyide 25 fr., unnecessary). We ascend the road
to the S. from the' Inn bridge, soon enter a larch-wood, and reach the pla-
teau on which 6t. Jon (see above) lies farthei^to the left. Opposite, high up
on the left side of the deep goi^e of the Clmtgia, lies the farm of Avrona
(see above). The road) bad at places, gradually descends through wood
into the valley, enclosed by the huge furrowed slopes of Pit Pisoc on the right
and Pit St. Jon and Pit Jiadlmn on the left , and frequently crosses the
Clemgia, the inundations of which are often very destmctive. After 2 hrs.
the sequestered Val Minffer diverges to the right, with Pit Forat (see above)
in the background. To the left is the Val del Poch. Passing a deserted
foundry, we next reach (1 hr.) Bearl (5848'; Adler^ rustic but clean; EdehcHu)
a hamlet at the mouthof the Val Seetvenna, whence Pit Comet (9951'), Pit Cri-
ftannes iiO^'2Bl% andPir Seeavenna (see above) may be ascended. To the left,
Vs hr. above Scarl, a bridle-path leaids over the Cruschetta (ScarlJffcM^ 7999'),
and through the pretty Fal Aviffna^ in 8 hrs. to ToMftrs (p. 403). The road ends
here. The bridle-path ci^osses the valley, which expands here (beautiful stone-
pines); it passes the chsJets of Attrtu Dttdora and Dadaint^ and, bearing
to the left, leads between (r.) Pit d" Astros (9808') and GO Pi* Murtera (9636')
to the CostainfM Pass (7385'), 2Vx hrs. from Scarl. It then descends to the
extensive dairy of Qiampaisch (7084'), in the parish of Valcava. rounds the
rock of La Jhiretta, and leads through wood (avoid steep patn to Cierfs,
descending to the right) to LU (6298'; Inn), a sunny and sheltered hamlet,
sometimes visited as a summer retreat; then by a narrow road to LOssai,
and across the Rambach to Furom, a solitary house on the road halfway be-
tween Fuldera and Valcava. Thence to St. Maria (2 hrs. from the Co-
stainas Pass), see p. 389.
Below Schuls we pass PradelUx, on the right bank of the Inn.
(A pretty walk of V2 ^'' leads from the bridge over the Inn at
Schuls along the right bank of the river, to this hamlet.) The
road follows the left bank. On the hill to the left, prettily situ-
to Nauders. BEMUS. 103, Boute. 393
ated , is the village of Sins , Rom. Sent (4702'; RhaeUa), 2^2 M.
from Schuls (diligence twice daily in 3/^ hr.). At (3 M.) Cru8ch
(Kreuz) the Val cT Vina opens on the right, through -which an attrac-
tive route leads over the Sur 8<U9 (7733') and through the Val
Schlinga to MaU (7 hrs. ; p. 402). Before reaching (2 M.) Bem&s,
Rom. BamttoscA (4022'), which, with the ruined castle of Tschanuff,
lies above us on the left, the road«crosses the Wraunka-Tohel^ a
deep ravine of the Val Sinestra.
Ascent of Pis Ariiia (9453' ; 4 hrs. ; with guide) ftrom Remiis, rather
tiring, hut well worth notice. — An easy and attractive route leads through
the Val Sinistra and over the Fimher Pass (8694') to Jtehgl in the Paznaun
(81/2 hrs.; guide 20 fr.). The bridle-path ascends on the left bank of the Sine-
stra hy Manas ^ past the mouth of the Val Laver on the left and the farm of
Suort , to the (2 hrs.) chalets of €frioseh (5948^) , at the foot of the huge
Slammerspitze (10,683' \ highest peak first ascended in 1884 by Prof. Schulz
of Leipzig). On the right opens the Val Tiatseha^ with the MuUler (10,827*)
in the background. Then through the Val Chdglitu to the Alp of that
name, and to the left to the (2>/2 hrs.) pass, Where we have a striking survey
of the Fluchthorn. Descent through the Fimhtrihal to (4 hrs.) Ischgl.
The valley contracts ; to the left is the ruin of Seroietd. In the
narrow Val d'Aaaa on the right (fine waterfall at the entrance) is the
(2 hrs.) intermittent Fontana (7At«toma, which flows once in 3 hrs.
only. Near it is an interesting stalactite cavern. A fine view of the
loftily situated Sckleina is soon revealed ; above it to the left rise
the MutUer (10,827') and the indented Stammerspitze (see above);
to the right Pit Lat (91900.
The next village (41/4 M.) is Strada. Near (IV4 M.) Xartixui-
bruek (3343'; *E6t, Demoth')f the scenery becomes grander. The
Inn Bridge is the boundary between Switzerland and the Tyrol
(Austrian custom-house). On the left are the ruins of another castle
named ServiexeL (Path on the left bank of the Inn in I1/2 hr. to
the Ftnitermuns Pass; see p. 403.) The new losd to Nauders,
on the Tyrolese side, winds up the wooded hill which separates the
Inn Valley from that of the StOU Bach, (The old road, preferable
and shorter, ascends to the right by the custom-house, past the small
houses.) At the top of the hill we enjoy an admirable retrospective
view of the Engadine ; and opposite us, to the N., rises Piz Mondin
(10,378'). Lastly a slight descent to (5V2 M.) —
50 M. Nauders (4488'), see p. 402.
104. From Samaden over the Bernina to Tirano and
through the Valtellina to Colico.
Comp. JfapSy pp. 374, 380.
^ > 76 M. Dii,i6SMGE in summer from Samajden to O^SVs ^.) Posehiavo twice
daily in 5Va hrs. (9 fr. 65, coup^ 11 fr. 60 c.) •, thence to (iTija M) Tirano in
l»/4 hr. (2 ir. 65, coup^ 3 fr. 55 c); from Tirano to (16 M.) Sondrio in 2V4
hrf . Railway from Sondrio to (2oV2 M.) Colico in 1 hr. 35 min. (4 £r. 6d,
3 fr. 25, 2 fr. 10 c). — Extra-Post and pair from Samaden to Poschiavo
60 fr.j Carriage with one horse from Pontresina to Poschiavo 35, with two
horses 70, to Tirano 50 and 90 fr.; one-horse carriage from Poschiavo to
Tirano, 12 fr. This route will even repay walkers.
394 BouU 104. BERNINA HOSPICE. From Samaden
The BcBNiHA Pass, the only carrug^roftd over the Bemina chain
(p. 381), is the chief route between the Engadine and the Valtellina, and
is frequented even in winter. — The journey through the Valtellina has
been much facilitated by the new railway from Sondrio to Colico, which
also affords an excellent route to the North Italian lakes froni the Enga-
dine, not, however, to be oreferred to the BregagUa (p. 371).
From Samaden to (0^4 M.) Fonteefiiia» see p. 380. Near a
saw-mill, ^2 ^* ^^^m the last houses of Uppei Pontresina, is the
fine Languard Fall^ IV2 ^* heyond which the road to the Mot-
teratseh Olacier (p. 382) diyerges to the right. The road begins
to ascend. To the right is revealed a splendid *View of the Mor-
teratsch Olacier, with its hnge moraine, overshadowed by the daz-
zling Piz Paid, Bellavlsta, Zup5, Argient, Crastaguzza, the Piz
Bernina, Morteratsch, and Tschierva. (From one of the windings of
the road, by a horse-trough, a path diverges to the Bernina Falls
and the Morteratsch Glacier.) About 5 M. from Pontresina are the
solitary Bernina Houses (67!^'; Inn), at the entrance to the Vol
del Fain.
The Yal del Fain, or ffeuthal^ 5 M. long, is interesting to botanists.
(Edelweiss grows on the slopes at the head of the valley.) A bridle-path
(practicable for light vehicles for 2>/s M. ; guide needless) ascends the valley,
crosses the Alp La Stretta and the Paste Fitno (8143'), between the Pit
Stretta (10,1970 and the Piz dels Lejs (10,013'), and descends into the Spdl
Valley to (6 hrs.) Livigno (p. 388). — Ascent of Pis Langvard by La Piteha,
see p. 386b
Beyond the Bernina houses (^/^ M.) the old bridle-path diverges
to the right, and leads on the left side of the brook over the Alp
Breffogliato the pass. The road crosses the brook and ascends grad-
ually on the E. side of the valley, passing the mouth of the Val
Minor. (To the left rise Pits Alv and Pit LagaXb, to the right the
atony slopes of the DianoUnata^ p. 385.) The zone of trees is now
quitted. The road passes the small Logo Minote (Rom. Ltj Pitschen)
and Logo Nero (Rom. LeJ Nair) and the light green Logo Bianco
(Rom. L^ Alv; 7316'). The narrow barrier between the Lago Nero
and the Lago Bianco forms the watershed between the Black Sea and
the Adriatic, the waters of the former descending to the Inn, and
those of the latter to the Adda. To the right lies the Cambrena
Olacier^ commanded by Pi% Cambrena (11,834'), and Piz CaraU
(11,247'); to the left Sassal Masone (99700, Before us rises Pit
Campaseio (see below) ; to the left of it is the conical Pitzo di Teo,
to the right Pix%o di Sena,
The road turns to the left by the Lago Nero, crosses a brook de-
scending from Piz Lagalb, and reaches (4^4 M. from the Bernina
houses) the —
121/2 M. Bernina Hotpice (7575'; R., L., & A. 3V2-4V2, I>-
4-41/2 fr.), finely situated above the Lago Bianco and opposite the
Cambrena Glacier. At the back of the hospice is the little Lago
deUa Croeetta. The payilion in front affords a fine view.
EzccasioNS. (Guides and horses at the hospice.) Fis Oampaseio (85SI' ;
guide 4 fr.), a bold peak to the S. of the hospice, rising perpendicularly on
to Tirana, BERNINA PASS. 104, Route. 395
theE. side, ascended by a good path in IVs hr., commands a very striking
view. — Pia Lagalb (9718'), to the y. (see above), also affords a fine view
^ hrs. ; 4 fr.).
From the hospice to the Alp G&5m or the Sassal Masone (l-l'A, there
and back 3 hrs. \ guide 4 fr., unnecessary \ donkey or mule 7 £r.), very
interesting. A few paces to the S. of the hospice the bridle-path diverges
from the road to the right, and skirts the E. bank of the Lago Bianco. It
crosses (15 min.) the brook issuing from the S. ^id of the lake, and follows
the right slope of the valley, skirting the little Laa^o delta Seala. A finger-
post (15 min.) indicates the path to the right to the Sassal Masone (see
below). We go straight on ; then, where the path divides, to the left, at
the same level ; and (20 min.) reach the *Alp Oriixn (7182'; Restaur.) ^ where
the superb *Palii Qlader^ separated from us by a narrow valley only, and
the Poschiavo Valley far below, with its lake and the villages of Le Prese,
Prada, and S. Antonio, are suddenly revealed. To the S.E. in the dis-
tance rise the Adamello and Presanella. — The *BaatalKa«one Alp (7798'^
refreshments), two round huts at the foot of the Sassal Masone (9970'),
reached in 25 min. by a good path from the above finger-post, commands a
grand view of the Palii Glacier, Pizzo di Verona, Piz Palii, the Poschiavo
Valley, and the Val Viola Mts.
From the Alp Gbuu to Poschiavo (3 hrs.). The path descends steeply
to the right, and afterwards widens into a stony cart-track; 40 min., Alp
la Dottaj ^l^'hT.^ hamlet of Cavaglia^ in a wider part of the valley. We
cross (V4 hr.) the CavagUaseo^ descending from the Palu Glacier through
a wild rocky gorge ; then skirt the slope to the right by a very rough and
stony path (often the bed of a torrent), and descend rapidly to (2 hrs.)
Posehiavo (see below). Fine view of the valley and the opposite heights,
on vrhich runs the Bernina road. Travellers intending to visit the Alp
Grtim from Poschiavo (advisable only in dry weather) should have the
beginning of the route pointed out (boy from the hotel for a small fee).
Over the Cambrena Pass to the Fellaria Chalets, grand but toilsome,
«ee p. 387.
A few paces to the £. of the hospice is the top of the Bernina
FasB (7658Q. Beyond it the road passes through two galleries and
descends rapidly in windings (avoidable by short-cuts), past La
Motta (65100, ^ (^ M.) —
I6V2 M. I-a B6sa (6162'; Inn, R., L., & A. 21/2, B. 1 fr.
To the N. of La Motta opens the Val Lagone, or Agone, containing
strata of gypsum and alabaster, through which a narrow road leads to the
Forcola (7638') and (6 hrs.) LivigM (p. 388).
Thsough thje Val Viola tu Bobmio (p. 399) 10 hrs., interesting \ guide
unnecessary in fine weather (from Pontresina to Bormio 45 fr.). The bridle-
path diverges from the Bernina road to the left at Sfazzu (see below) and
ascends the Val di Campo by the chalets of Saibay La Tonia, and Plan Sena
(65(Xy) to (2 hrs.) Longacqua, the highest chalet or 'malga\ To the N. lies the
Val Mera^ with the beautiful Como di Campo (10,804'), whence a fatiguing route
crosses tbe Passo di Val Mera (9r76') to Livigno. From this point through
the Val Viola Poschiavina to the {VU hr.) Val Viola Fasa (g068') the path
is ill-defined at places (guide desiraole for the inexperienced), leading at
first through woods of stone-pines, in which several pretty little blue
lakes lie to the right. Fine retrospective view of the Bernina Hts.; to
the S. the precipices of the Como di Saosea. Beyond the pass the path,
again distinct, gradually descends to (V4 hr.) the first chalet in the Val Viola
BomUna, on the little Val Viola Lake OdISff). It now leads high along the
K. slope of the valley (beautiful views of the Val di Dosdh to the right,
with the Pizto di Dosdh and the Cima di Lago Spaltno), and then descends
rapidly through wood to the (IV2 br.) Ponte Minestra (6037'-, below which
is a waterfall) and the (^4 hr.) hamlet of Campo. Then across pastures
and through wood at places, past several houses and bams, to (1^/% hr.)
^9. Carlo (4870^), a village with a church. On the right rise the Oima di
Piazza (11,713'), with the Burone Glacier and Piz S. Colonibano (9940').
396 Route 104, POSGHIAYO. From Samaden
Decent to the Val di Dentro and Semoffo (route to Idviffno by Foscagno,
see p. 399), and by Holaccia (Osteria by the bridge) and I^denogMo to
(2 brs.) Premadio. We now cross the Adda, and reach Bormio in Vs hr. by
the road to the right, or the yew Batht (p. 399) in V« hr. by that to the left.
Where the road crosses to the E. slope of the mountain we ob-
tain a passing view of the upper part of the narrow Posckiavmo Val-
ley ^ down to Poschiavo. Below (1/2 hr.) Sfaassu (where & direct, bnt
bad and stony foot-path from La Rdsa debouches) we cross the brook
descending from the Val di Campo, pass PiaciadeUa (4910') on the
right, below which another path to the Val Viola diverges to the
left , and descend in a wide curve on the £. side of the valley. The
road reaches the bottom of the valley at (4V2 M.) S, Carlo (3692'),
where it passes through a gateway. On the hill to the right ap-
pears a glacier descending from Pixzo di Verona (11,358'). Then
(li/jM.)^
24 M. Poschiavo, Ger. Puschlav (3317'; pop. 2981; *H6t.
Albrieei, in the principal piazza, with the post office, R., L., & A.
3V2fr«; Crocey at the lower end of the town; Helvetia'), a busy
little town, with several factories and handsome houses. The lan-
guage is Italian, and one-third of the inhabitants are Protestant. The
Rom. Cath. Church dates from 1494, but the tower is much older ;
good wood-carving in the interior. The charnel-house behind the
church contains numerous skulls and bones (comp. p. 68). The
town-hall bears the arms of the town. The Prot. Church is modern.
^Saaaalbo (9377' ; 5 hrs.; with guide), tiring, but very attractive. From
Poschiavo we ascend to the E. to the (3 hrs.) Alp Sattiglione (6312';
spend night), and mount by the Forcola di Sassiglione (SSSO') on the S.
side to the (2^/2 hrs.) summit. Grand panorama : W. the Bemina, B. the
Ortler, S.E. the Adamello. — To the Val Malenco over the Ctmdano or
the Cotifinale Pass, see p. 387.
Omnibus from Poschiavo to (3 M.) Le Prese 4 times daily (6 and
10 a. m., 2 and 6.30 p. m.) In IY2 ^f- (^ ^^•)- "^^^ xoad crosses the
Poschiavino, traverses a pleasant level valley, and passes 8. Antonio,
27 M. Le Frese (3156'; *Bath House), a watering-place at the
N'.W. end of the Logo di Poschiavo, a basin of the Poschiavino,
well stocked with trout, is suitable for some stay. The alkaline and
sulphureous spring (48® Fahr. ; baths heated by steam, 1 fr. 20 c.)
rises 100 paces from the bath-house.
The road skirts the W. bank of the lake, passing old fortifications,
destroyed in 1814. At the S. end is the (2 M.) village of Meschino,
with a beautiful view of the lake with the snow-mountains in the
background. We now descend a narrow, rocky gorge, accompanied
by a series of waterfalls all the way to Madonna -di Tirano (see
below), and reach (1^2 M.) —
3OV2 M. Bnuio (2477') , Ger. BriiSy the last large Swiss viUage
(pop. 1170; Vs^dProt.), with a Rom. Oath, and a Prot. church,
the latter built at the beginning of the 17th cent.
The' road descends through walnut and chestnut -plantations
(pretty fall of the Sajento on the right) to Campaseio and —
to Colico. TIKANO. J04, Route, S97
31 V2 M. Campo Cologno (1800'; poBt-stat.), whete vineyaids
begin. The Italian custom^'honse is near the old foit Piatta Mala,
34 M. Madonna di Tirano {^8. Michele, R. 3, B. 1 fr.) is a small
Tillage built around an imposing pilgrimage-church of the 16th cen-
tury. We here reach the Valtellina, Ger. Veltlin, the broad valley
of the Adda J which belonged to the Orisons down to 1797. The floor
of the valley is frequently devastated by inundations. The fertile
slopes yield excellent red wine (p. 333). The road unites here with
the Stelvio route (see below) , on which lies —
35 M. Tirano (1506' ; pop. 6000; Alhergo d' Italia, with the
post-offlce, dear ; Alh, delta Posta ; Hot. Stelvio, by the lower brid-
ge) , a small town with old mansions of the Visconti, Pallavicini, and
Salis families. In the background, to the E., rises Monte Mortirolo.
The road to Colico leads back to Madonna di Tirano, and crosses
the Poschlavino, At Tresenday 6 M. below Madonna dl Tirano, a
bridge crosses the Adda to the road which leads by the Pa««o d'iif^n-
ca (40400 ^0 ^^^^° AQ^ Brescia (see Baedeker's N, Jtaiy). The old
watch-tower of Teglio on the hill to the right gives its name to the
valley (Val Teglino).
17 M. Sondrio (1140' ; pop. 6500; *Po8ta, II., L., & A. 41/2,
P. 4 fr. ; Maddalletui), on the wild Malero, the capital of the Yal-
tellina , grows excellent wine (Sassella, Grumello, Inferno, Mon-
tagna). The brook, which has frequently .endangered the town^ now
flows through a broad artlflcal channel. A long building on the
outskirts of the town, once a nunnery, is now private property.
The old castle of the governors Is used as a barrack.
Thd *Oonio Stella (8665'; very attractive and without difficulty) may
be ascended in 7-8 hrs. from Sondrio vi& the Val del Livrio.
The *y»l Xalenco, to the K. of Sondrio, is well worth exploring. A
cart-road on the right bank of the Malero leads by Torre to (9 H.) ChUsa (3298' ;
Inn, tolerable), the principal village in the valley, finely situated. (Guides.
Mich, and Silvio Schenattl, G. Olivo). Interesting asbestos-pits in the neigh,
bourhood. — From Chiesa over the ifuretto Pass (83900 to the Maloja (8hrs.)^
see p. 375 ; over the Tremoggia or the Seer seen Pass to Sils (9-10 hrs.), see p. 376;
over the Sella Pass, the JBellavista Saddle, or the Cambrena Pass to Pon-
tresina (16-17 hrs.), see p. 386; over the Canciano or Confnale Pass to
Posehiavo (8-9 hrs.), see p. 387. The Fellaria Chalets (p. 386) may be
reached from Chiesa in 4V2 hrs., through the Val Lantema (guide ad-
visable, as there is no path; from Fellaria to the Capanna AfarinelliShrB:).
Pleasant walks from Chiesa : to the Palii Lake (632Cn, beautifully situated ;
by Lanzada to the waterfall at the head of the Val Lantema ; to the Pirlo
Lakes (6890^), etc. — Xonte della Diigrazia (12,074'), 10-12 hrs. from Chiesa,
difficult. We ascend by the (3V2 hx&.) Alp di Rali to the (SVs hrs.) Ca-
panna della Disgrazia of the I. A. C. on the Corna Rosta Pass (9186';
spend night); then over glacier and rock to the (7 hrs.) summit, a most
superb point of view. The ascent may also be made from Val Masino
(p. 397): from Cataeggio by the Val di Sasso Bissolo and Val di Pietra
Bossa to the (5 hrs.) Capanna Cecilia of the I. A. C. (8280')) thence in
5 hrs. to the top.
The Railway Station lies about V2 ^- ^^ ^^^ S* ^^ ^^^ toyrn
(omnibus ^2 ^i**)* -^^ ^^^ train leaves it we have a passing glimpse
into the Val McUenco (see above). We cross the Malero, To the
398 BOUU104. MOBBEONO.
right, on a loeky height and supported hy galleries^ rifies the church
of 8a99ella, 3^3 M. Caitione; the Tillage lies on the slope to the
right. 7M. S, Pielro-Berbenno ; 11 M. ^rdetmo-AfcMWo , at the
mouth of the Val Masino.
V&l Kaaino. The road leads to Masino^ Ptoda^ Caiaeggio^ and (7 M.) S.
Martino (ST^O, where the valley divides : to the right the Valle di Mello
(route over the Foreella di 8» Martino or the Fomo Pats to the Bregaglia, see
p. 372), to the left the ValU dti BagtU, In the latter lie the (IV4 M.) Bagni
del Maaino, with a good bath-house (4330"). This valley, called Val Porce-
lizza above this point, turns to the N.; at its head towers the abrupt Badilt
group. The E. peak {Pit Truhinatea, WJff) and the W. peak CPU Cengatc.
11,060') present no difficulty to mountaineers with good guides; but the
central PU Badile (10,825') is very difficult. — Over the Bondo Pas* to the
Yal Bondtuca (trying, for experts only), see p. 372.]
The train crosses the Adda , the right bank of which is here
precipitous; the high-road runs high above. To the right, in the
Val Masino, appears the Mie. delta Dingratia (see above). 14 M.
Talamona. 16 M. Morbegno (853'; ^Ancora), noted for its sllk-
cultnre, is situated at the mouth of the Val del Bitto, through which
a bridle-path leads over the Passo di 8. Marco (5996'! to Piazza
8. Martino in the Val Bremhana and to Bergamo. 18 M. Coaio-
Traona. Beyond (21 M.) Delebh , on the Lesina (p. 428) , which
descends from Mte. Legnone, the railway unites w!th the line from
Chiavenna to Colico (p. 362). On a crag to the right is the ruin of
Fuentes.
25V2 M. Colieo, see p. 362.
105. From Tirano to Katiders over the Stelvio.
Comp. Mapf p. 388.
79 M. Hkbsaqebie from Tirano to Bonnio daily in 6 hrs. (9 fr. 20 c.)
DiLiOEMcs daily (from middle of June to end of SeptO ^rqm the Baths of
Bormio over the Stelvio to Eyrs in lOVx hrs. (coupe 7 11. 35 kr.; also open
carriages), leaving the Baths at 6. 30 a.m., arriving at S. Maria at 11. 15,
Franzenshohe at 1. 30, Trafoi at 3, Prad at 4. 30, and Evrs at 5 p.m.;
from Eyrs to Ifaudera daily in 5, to Landeck (p. iOS) in iOi/g hrs. (7 fl.
14 kr.). — ExTBA-PosT with two horses from Tirano to the Baths of
Bormio 50 fr. — Return-carriages to Tirano and Bormio are frequently met
with at Foschiavo (p. 396). One-horse carr. from Pontresina to Bormio SO,
two-horse 120 fr., a night being spent at Le Prese (to Le Prese 5'A brs.;
thence to Bormio 8 hrs.). Extra-post and pair from the Baths of Bormio
to Trafoi in 6V2 hrs., 60 fr.
The ^Btelvio &oad, the highest in Europe, constructed by the Austrian
government in 1830-25^ traverses splendid scenery, from the rich vine-clad
slopes of the Valtellina to the huge glaciers and dazzling snow of the Ortler. On
the S. side of the pass the engineering of the road itself is an object of interest.
Walking. The scenery will reward walkers from the Baths of Bormiu
to (25V2 M.) Pradi so also from 8. Haria over the Wormser Joch to S.
Maria in the Miinsterthal in 3, Munster s/ij Taufers Vsj ai^d Mais in 2V2 hrs.
The road ascends from Tirano (p. 397 J through vineyards to
the Semio region of the valley. To the N. rises the precipitous Pit
Maiuccio (9245Q, a landslip from which in 1807 blocked the bed of
the Adda , and converted the populous and fertile Talley as far as
Tovo into a lake. At (5 M.) Matto the road crosses the Adda, and
at the large village of Orosotto (Leone d'Oro) the Roasco, which de-
BORMIO. 105. RquU. 399
scends fiom the Val Qroaina. On the left are the handsome ruins
of the fortress of Venosta, We cross the Adda again heyond Orosio,
12 M. BoUadore (2820' ; Poata or An^tlo ;. B6t. des Alpes,
new). On the hill-side to the W. stands the pretty church of Son'
dalo. The valley contracts ; the vegetation becomes poorer ; below
us dashes the grey glacier-water of the Adda. About 1^2 ^> beyond
(72 M.) Mondadizza we again cross the Adda. . The (5 M.) defile of
La Serra di Morigwmtj 3/4 M. ■ long^ separates the Yaltellina from
the region of Bormio ; at the entrance to it, on the right, are remains
of old fbrtifloations. The Ponte del Diavolo was the scene of a sharp
skirmish between Austrians and G^dbaldianfl on 26th June, 1B59.
At the end of the defile is the hamlet of Mortgnone in a green dale
(VaUe di SoUo); the church stands on the hill far above it. The
next group of houses is 8. Antonio, with its brick^works.
Beyond the village (3^/^ M.) of Ceppina opens the broad green
valley (Piano) of Bormio, enclosed by lofty mountains, which are
partly covered with snow. The road crosses the Frodolfo , which
unites witii the Adda below the bridge , and turns to the N.E. to
(31/4 M.) -
25 V2 M. Bomto» Qer. Wamw (4012'; ^Posta; Gius. Cola, in
the market), at the entrance to the Vol Furoaj an old-£ftshioned little
Italian town, with seTeral dilapidated towers.
In the Yal J^trva, 7VsM; to the E., lie the baths of S. Cateriaa (5726';
*BathHoUli Pie TreserOf commended), wiUi a spring strongly impregnated
with carbonic acid. (One-horse carr. from the New Baths of Bormio, there
«nd back, 12 fr. or more; diligence twice daily in V/2 hr.) 8. Gaterina,
beautifully aituated, Is a good atarting-poiat for exoursiens on the 8. side
of the Ortlerj but the baths are closed in the middle of September.
^ Monte ConfinaU (11,090'; with guide; 5 hrs.), affording an admirable
survey of the Ortler chain, is very interesting and not difficult.
Fbou Bormio to Liviomo a bridle-path (7 hrs. ; without guide ^ better
in the reverse direction). At Premadio it crosses the Adda and ascends
the Val di Dentro to (iVa br.) IsolacHa (p. 396). On the slope to the right
lies the hamlet of Pedenoseo^ above which, on the saddle of the Monte
delle Scale i rise two towers which once defended that pass (Scale di
Fraele). [Over the Scale di Fraele to 8. Oiacomo di Fraele and Val
Mora^ and over the Buffalora Pass (Giufplan, 7723') to the Buffalora Alp
near the Of en Pass (p. 38t», and Zernetz^ 12 hrs.; guide desirable, 20fr.] Beyond
Isolaccia the path ascends on the left bank of the brook; V2 l^i'-i Semogo
(4673'; Martinelli, dear) ; above us, opposite, at the mouth of the Val Viola^
is the church of S. Carlo. (Val Viola Pass to the Bernina, see p. 395.)
From the C^Va brs.) Foscagno Pass (7556'), with its two little green lakes,
we have a pleasing retrospect of the Val Viola and the S. Ortler Mts. Descent
to (1 hr.) Trepalle (eSSO') ; then to the W., over the hill, to (IVa hr.) Livigno
<p. 388). From Livigno to the Bernina road over the Passo Fieno or the For-
cola, see pp. 395, 396; to Ponte by the Lavirum Pass, see p. 388; to Scanfs
by the Casaana Pass, see p. 383 ; to Ofen through the Spolthal, see p. 339.
At Bormio the windings of the Stelvio road begin. (The dili-
gence starts from the New Baths, 2 M. from Bormio ; carriage thither
from Bormio should be ordered in good time.)
271/2 M. Baths of Bormio. The *New Baths (Bagni Nuovi,
4396'; with post-office; R., L., & A. 4-5, D. 4-5 fr.J, on a terrace,
with a fine view of the valley of Bormio and the surrounding moun-
400 BouU 106. STELTIO PASS. From Tirano
tains, are much frequented in July and August, and remain open till
the middle of October. The water (92-1 (XF) u conveyed by pipes from
the springs, 3/4 M. higher, at the Old Baths (see below), perched on
the rocks to the left, and reached by a footpath as well as by the road.
The Stelvio road ascends from the New Baths in a long cuxve,
with beautiful retrospects of the valley ttom Bormio to Ceppina ; to
the S.W. the Piz 8. Coiombano (9938'), Cima di Piaxta (11,710'),
and Piz Btdasco^ to the S.E. the Cime di Gobetta and Piz Tresero
at the upper end of the Vol Furva; to the W. the Vol Viola (p. 395).
Near the Old Baths we cross an vion bridge , and pass through a
short tunnel (OaUeria dei Bagni), beyond which the Old Baths
{Bagni Veechi ; 4760') lie below the road on the left. Beyond the
deep gorge of the Adda rises the precipitous Mit, deUe Scale (p. 399).
To the left, farther on, the Adda emerges from the wild Val
FraeU. A copious brook, which flows from the cliffs below the mouth
of theValFraele, is sometimes erroneously described as the source
of the Adda. A succession of galleries, partly of wood, and partly hewn
in the rocks, for protection against avalanches, carry the road
through a defile (II Diroccamento) to the Cantoniera di Piatta
Martina (5970^), a h08pi4;e for travellers, and the Cantoniera al
piede di Spondalonga (6906 '), which was destroyed by Garibal-
dlans in 1859. On the W. side of the valley rises the abrupt Mte.
BrauUo (9790^). The road crosses the brook issuing from the Val
Vitelli by the Ponte Alto, and ascends in numerous windings, which
the pedestrian may avoid. In a gorge to the left are the *FaUs of
ike Bratdio. We next pass the Ckuino dei Botteri di Spondalonga
(7510'), used by the road-menders, and the III. Cantoniera al Piano
del BrauUo (7875'; Inn, tolerable), with a chapel.
84 M. S. Xaria (8153'; Inn), the IV, Cantoniera and the
Italian custom-house.
A bridle-path, formerly the only route between the Vintschgau and
Valtellina, diverges to the left from the Cantoniera S. Maria to the Wormier
Joch, or Umbrail Ptus (8240'), and descends through the Murama Vallep
to (3 hrs.) the Swiss village of 8. Maria in the Miinsterthal (p. 389) ; thence
by Tavfers in 31/2 hrs. to Mais (p. 402) in the Etschthal.
«PiE TJmbrail (9954') > the £. and highest peak of the bold serrated
mountains which bound the Val Braulio on the "S., is a remarkably fine
point (IV2 hr. -J guide, for novices , 5-6 fr.). Turning to the left by the
dogana , we ascend a grassy slope and then a stony sigsag path to the
summit. Superb view (see Panorama by Faller). Travellers from Bormio
may ascend this peak by diverging to the left from the road V« br. beyond
the Third Cantoniera (see above) and ascending to (1 hr.) a small lake,
and mounting rocks to the (1 hr.) top. Descent to the Cantoniera of
S. Maria.
Beyond S. Maria, the road affords glimpses of the Miinsterthal
to the left. Close to us, on the right, rise the huge Eben and Stelvio
glaciers. The pass is never free from snow except in warm sum-
mers ; in June heaps of snow , 6-8' deep , are often seen on the
road-side.
On the (IV2 M.) Stelvio Pass (^Stilfser Jock, or Ferdinandshohe,
•045') stands a road-menders' house. A column to the right marks
to Nauders, TRAFOI. 105. Route. 401
the highest point and the boundary between Italy and Tyrol. About
1/2 M. to the N. is the frontier of Switzerland (Orisons).
A path ascends by the workmen''8 house to the left in 20 min. to the
so-called ^DrefsprtMchenfpitze (about 9180^, a rocky height affording an ad-
mirable view, particularly of the Ortler, whose snowy dome rises imme-
diately opposite. The bare, reddish Monte Pressura {RSiheltpitte; 9941'),
towards the N.W. intercepts the view of the Miinsterthal.
The road now descends the talc-slate slopes in long windings
(to Trafoi 33 in all). To the right, high above the snowy slopes, rise
the Geistersj^iise (11,3550 ^^^ TueketUpitte (11,400')- As the road
affords the finest views, the short-cuts should be avoided.
4OV2 M. Fransemhdhe (7160'; *Inn), formerly a post-station.
To the S. the huge Madatsch Olaeier extends far into the valley.
About 2 M. farther, just beyond the 18th kilometre-stone , is the
spot where Madeleine de Tourvllle, an English lady, was murdered
by her husband, a "Walloon, in 1876. The •We*M« Knotty a small
platform a little farther on, is an excellent point of view: before us
rises the sombre Madatschspitz ; to the right the Madatsch Glacier,
with its splendid ice-fall ; to the left the Trafoier Femer, and above
it the Pleisshorn and Ortler ; in the valley far below, amidst pines,
is the chapel of the Three Holy Springs (see below). In the back-
ground to the N. rises the broad snowy pyramid of the Weiss-
kugel.
45 M. Trafoi (5080'; *Po8i ; *Zur Sehonen Aussieht'), a small ham-
let, finely situated (one-horse carr. to Prad 3^2 A-)*
Pleasant walk (*/« hr.) to the ^Thrte H«ly Bpxiags (does'), which rise
in the valley below, at the foot of the Ortler. The path (guide unneces-
sary) diverges from the road to the left, 3 min. above the Post, and lei^ds
at the same level through meadows and wood, and over moraine. At the
end of the valley are figures of Christ, Mary, and St. John, under a roof,
from whose breasts flows the very cold 'holy water\ Adjacent are a chapel
and an auberge for pilgrims. Opposite rises the huge and abrupt Madatsch,
over the dark limestone rocks of which two brooks are precipitated. Above,
to the left, are the ice-masses of the Trafoier and Lower Ortler-Femer,
overtopped by the Trafoier Eiswand. The scene is interesting and impressive.
The ascent of the Ortler (12,814') from this side is now facilitated by
the erection of the PayerhUtU (see below), reached from Trafoi in 4 hrs.
(thence to the top 4-5 hrs. ; guide 10 fl. ; comp. Baedeker^s E. Alps),
We now follow the impetuous Trafoi-Bach, the inundations of
which are sometimes very destructive, and pass (372 M.) Oomagoi,
Ger. Beidewasser (4265'; Inn), with a small fort erected in 1860.
To the right lies the ''Buldenthal, 71/2 M. long, a great resort of moun-
taineers. Bridle-path (road in progress) to (iSVshrs.) St. Oertrud or Sulden
(e064'; "ISUer; *Znm Ortler). with the church of the valley, splendidly sit-
uated. The Oampenhd/e, Vshr. above St. Gertrud. command an impos-
ing view of the Ortler chain. — The 'Ortler (12,814'), the highest of the
Eastern Alps, is frequently ascended from Sulden, but is difficult and
fatiguing, and fit for adepts only (guide 10 fl.). The night is passed in the
(3*/2 hrs.) PayerhUtte on the Tabaretta-Kamm (10,059') j thence to the top,
chiefly over snow, 4 hrs. more. (Further details in Baedeker''s E. Alps.)
The narrow valley barely affords room for the road and river.
The latter forms several falls. On the hill to the left lies the village
of Stilf 8, Ital. Stelvio, which gives its name to this route.
Bakdekbb, Switzerland. 12th K^tion. 26
402 Bout€l05. MALS.
53 M. Prad (2940'; *Neue PoBt; *AUe Post^y ot Brady lies at
the foot of the Stel^io route. The load intersects the broad valley
of the EUchj or Adige, crosses a marsh and the river by a long bridge,
and reaches (2 M.) SpondirUg (2855 ' ; THirsch) , on the high-road
from Botzen and Meran to Landeck, i^/2 M. to the W. of JEyrs,
Walxehs may arold Hie glarinf and fatiguing road from Prad by
Spondinig to Mais by diverging to the right at Prad, on the rigbt bank of
the Adige, and following the foot of the mountains, to Agunu, Liehtenberg
CInn), charmingly situated amidst fruit-trees, with a ruined castle (see
below), Qlum${^S^(y\ Krone), a small fortified town with an old cborcb,
and (21/2 hrs.) MalB (see below).
To THE Mdnstebthal a narrow road leads from Glurns to the W., on
the right bank of the Ramhaeh^ whieh here Mis fntd the Etsch. After
2V2 H. it eroases the brook. (Bottte on the r%ht bank by Riffair not re-
commended.) The (6 M.) loftUy situated village of Tavfen (4042*), with its
three churches, is commanded by three ruined castles. (OverZa Orvseh^tta
to 8carl, see p. 392.) A broad road leads hence to the (V« H.) Swisa firontier
and (V2 M.) XiiaatMr, B»m. Muttair (9765'; Pit CiatadaUeh; Hirteh)^ the first
village in the Grisons , with a large Benedictine church. The road descends,
crosses the Rambach (passing the Aua da Pischy a fine waterfall in a woo-
ded gorge to the left), and aseends gradually by aielna to(2M.) S, Maria
(4569r ; Pi2 Umbrail ; Weisses Kreus), a large village at the mouth of the
Val Huranza. Thence over the Umbrail Pass to Bormio, see p. 400 \ over
the Ofen Pass to Zernetz , see p. 389 \ through the Val Scarl to Schuls,
see p. 392.
The road to Nsnders skirts the hlll-side at some distance from
the Adlge. The valley is called the Upper VinUchgau, after its an*
cient inhabitants. To the left, on the opposite bank^ rises the
half-ruined castle of LioMeribefg. On the ri^t^ before ^e reach
Schludemsy is the Chufburg, a chateau of Count Trapp. We next
pass Tartsch, and, near Mais, the ancient tower of the Frdliehahurg.
6IV2M. KalB (3428' ; Post, 01 Adler; HirscK) is a village of
Roman origin. On the opposite bank of the Adlge rises the large
Benedictine Abbey of MarUnbtrg. To the lelt, farther on, are the
village of BurgeiSy with its red spire, and the castle ot Fursten-
burgy now occupied by poor families. This monotonous part of the
valley is called the Malser Heide. The road ascends and soon reaches
the E. bank of the BeiderStty and beyond it —
69 M. St. Valentin auf der Heidt (4695 '; ^Posf), Magnificent
retrospective *Vibw (most striking when approached from Nauders)
of the snow and ice-clad Ortler range, which forms the entire back-
ground. Skirting the E. bank of the MitUr-Seey the road leads to
(31/2 M.) Granny at the entrance of the Langtauferer 2%a2. To the
left is the green Reschen'Sety the source of the Adlge. Beyond (2M.)
Resehen (4888'; Sternl, at the N. end of the lake, we reach the
Sesehen-Seheideok (48980, ^^ watershed between the Black Sea and
the Adriatic, and then deseeiid by the 8UUe Bach to (472 ^0 —
79 M. Kauder* (4468'; *Post; *Ldwe; Mondschein^. The old
castle of Naudtrsberg contains the district courts of justice.
From Nauders to the Lower Engadine (dilig. to SchuU 4aily), see p. 393.
403
106. From Hauders to Bregenz over the Arlberg.
Ci^mp, Mapiy pp. 332^ 50,
103 M . DiuGEKCE from Nauders to Landeck (26V2 i''-) dailv in 5V4 hrs.
(also an omnibus). Railway from Landeck to Bregenz, 76V2 M., m 4V4-6 hrs.;
fares 5fl., 3fl. 80, 2fl. Mkr. (express 6fl. 35 or 6fl.).
The load thiongli the FinsUmwn% Pass runs high above the
liver, being fa^gvn at places in the perpendicular slate-rock (three
tunnels, two avalanche-galleries). At the entrance to the pass is a
small fort, and beyond it a pretty waterfall. The finest point on the
route is ^Hoch-EiiiBtermaBi (3730'), a group of houses with a Hotel,
Far below is the ancient Finatermimz (3203 Q, with its tower and a
bridge over the Inn. The ravine of the Inn, with the Engadine Mt?.
In the background, i» veiy picturesque.
The road dosoends gxj&dually, and crosses the Inn near —
8 M. PfnndB (3185'), consisting af two villages, separated by
theJUin : on the right bank, P funds (*Inn), on the left bank Stuben
(•Traube; Post), through which the road runs. To the.S.W. towers
Pin Mondin (10,278'), a peak of the N. Engadine chain; to the
S.£. the Qlockthurm (10,995') and other peaks of tiie Oetzthaler
Ferner. The road again crosses the Inn near (4 M.) T^sena,
I7V2M. aied(2850'; *Post; Maass), a thriving village, with the
castle of Siegmundsfied, Then (2 M.) Prutz (Rose), wheng the road
crosses to the left bank, in a marshy plain at ti^A mouth ot the
Kaunserthal , in which lies KaUenhrUnnf a resort of pilgrims. To
the left above Prutz , on a precipice on the left bank, is the ruined
caetle of X^mdegg; iiear it lies the village of Ladis (3880'), with
sulphur-baths (m(^erate), 1 hr. from Prutz; 1/2 ^'- higher is Obla-
dis (4530'), a bath-house with mineral springs, well fitted up and
finely situated, but not accessible by carriage.
The road reciosses the Inn by the (2^^ H.) Ptmtlatz Bridge
(2770 ') , 5 M. from Landeck , where the Bavarian invaders o£ the
Tyrol were si^fnally defeated by the Tyrolese 'Landsturm' in 1703
and 1809. To the right FUes, with ScMoss Bideneck. To the left,
on the opposite bank, a fall of the Vrgbach^ high above which is the
village of HochgaUmig. The Inn dashes through a narrow gorge and
forms several series of cataracts.
27 M. Landeck (2668'; Posti Ooldner AdUr), a large village on
both banks of the Inn, is -commanded by the ancient Feste Landeck.,
now tenanted by poor families. The Railway Station lies IY4 M. to
the S.W. (Rail. Restaur., indifferent).
The Ablbbbo Railway, opened in the autumn of 1884, crosses
the Inn. Looking back, we get a glimpse of the picturesque Lan-
deck to the left and of the huge Parseierspitse (9954*) to the right.
The train ascends on the right bank of the deep Sannathal to
(3OY2 M. from Nauders) Stat. Plans r2990'), opposite the beauti-
fully situated village of that name (Alte and Neue Post) , above
which lies Grins, After crossing several viaducts we obtain a view
26*
r
404 BouU 106. ARLBERG. From Nauders
of SeklosB WUtherg, and ueai it we cross tlie Trisanna^ whieh emerges
from the Patznaunthal and unites with the Rosanna to form the
Sanna , by means of a bold bridge , 286 yds. long and 282' in
height. Then a tunnel, 221 yds. long.
34 M. Strengen (3215') lies at the N. base of the Peziner Spitte
(83630. ^0 tbe W. rises the BiffUr (9880'), with its steep glacier.
We follow the right bank of the Rosanna to (36 M.) TUneh (3680',-
*Po8t), at the foot of the EUenkopf (9252'), prettily situated. Near
the Yillage of Sehnan, V2 ^* ^ ^^® W., is the Sehnaner KUxmm,
a narrow rocky gorge of the Schnanerbaeh.
The valley expands. The train ascends more gradually and
crosses the Rosanna three times. 40 M. Petineu. Grossing the
stream twice more, we next reach (44 M.) tt. Anton (4206'; *Post:
Rail. Restaur.) J the highest village in the Rosanna Valley or Stan-
ter Thai, at the E. base of the Arlberg.
Immediately beyond St. Anton the train enters the great Arl-
berg Tunnel, nearly 6V3 M. long (St. Ootthard Tunnel 91/4 M.l,
ascends slightly to the middle of it (4298' above the sea-level :
1598' below the Arlberg Pass), and then descends rapidly to the
Klosterthal, watered by the ili/iciw. 5072 M. ^*»S'«w (3993'), on the
right bank of the stream. At first running high up on the N. side
of the valley, the train descends, crossing a series of viaducts, to
(54 M.) Danofm and —
58 M. Balaat (3054'); the prettily situated village lies far
below in the valley (2750'; *Po8t). Several more viaducts and
tunnels. 591/2 M. Hintergasst (2703'). At (62 M.) Braiz (2326';
•Lowe) the train reaches the bottom of the valley. To the right
a considerable fall of the Fallbach, The train then traverses the
broad valley of the III to —
66V2M:. Blndeni(1906'; *Bluden9erHof, Scesaplana, Arlber-
gerHofy at the station ; in the town. Post; *Kreuzi Krone), prettily
situated. To the S. is the picturesque ravine of the Brandner-Thal,
with the ice-clad Scesaplana in the background.
EXCUHSION TO THE LtVEftBEB AND AsCENT OP THE SCESAPLANA , verf
interesting. (To the lake 5Vs hrs., an easy route.) We descend and cross
the III to BUn, and ascend the charming Brandiur-Thal to (2Va hn.) Brand
(3376'; ^Beck-, ^Kegele). The path mounts on the right bank of the il/v««r6acA
the Alp Lagant, and ascends thence in zigzags over grass, d^ris, and rock.
To tiie right rises the Seekopf, with its huge stony slopes ; over the rocks to
the left falls a fine cascade of the brook issuingfrom the Liinersee. We
next reach (3 hrs.) the depression on the X.W. side of the beautiful,
dark-green ^Liinersee (6312 '), the largest lake among the Rhsetian Alps,
4 M. in circumference. On tne W. bank is the DongUu But (Inn).
The ascent of the ^'Scesaplana (9718'), the highest peak of the Bhsetikon
chain, is toilsome, but safe (3-4 hrs. \ guide from Bludenz 9, from Brand
7 fl.). Leaving the Douglas Hut, we skirt the lake for a little way and
then ascend to the right, at first on turf, and then over loose stones and
the dreary rock-strewn Todie Alp. Lastly we pass through a steep ^che-
min^e' to the arSte to the top without difficulty. The imposing prospect
embraces the whole of Swabia towards the K., as far as Ulm; the Vor-
arlberg and Algau Alps to the N.E. ; the Oetzthal , Stubay, and Zillerthal
to Bregenz, MONTAVON. 106. Route, 405
Alps to the £. ; and the Swiss Alps from the Silvretta and Bemina to the
St. Gotthard and the Bernese Mts., and the Rhine Valley, Canton of
Appenzell, and Lake of Constance to the S. and W. — Descent to the
SelamtVa Club But and by the Alp Palus to (4 hrs.) Seems in the Prati-
gau, see p. 336. From the Douglas Hut to (4 hrs.) Schruns (see below)
an attractive route leads past the grand '^^cAweuer-TAor (pass to thePratigau,
p. 336) to the Ewen Pats , and descends to the finely situated SporeraVp
and through the Qaverthal (see below ; the experienced may dispense with
a guide).
The Kontavon (comp. 3Iap, p. 332), to the S.E. of Bludenz, is a beau-
tiful and populous valley, watered by the 111, and separated from the Pra-
tigau on the S. by the Rhattikon Jits. The road (omnibus to Schruns sev-
eral times daily, 60 kr.), leads by St. Peter to (4 M.) St. Anton, a hamlet
on a mound of debris at the base of the Sclttparzhorn'^ then, following
the right bank of the 111, to (31/2 M.) Schruns (Wff-, pop. 1710 •, "LSwe;
'^Tatibe), the chief place in the valley, charmingly situated at the base of the
BartholomdJberg (488CK; a fine point of view. On the opposite bank of the
III lies Tschofftms, at the entrance to the Gauerthalj from which a path
crosses the Drusenthor (7220*), between the Drusenjtuh (9298') and the SuU-
fluh (9200*), to (B hrs.) Sthiers (p. 336) in the Pratigau. (To the Liinersee,
see above.) Over the Piirtnun or Graven Pass, or over the Plasseggen Pass
to (7-8 hrs.) KUhlis see p. 337. — The *'8ulzfluh (9200*; 8 hrs. j guide 9fl.) is
a splendid point, hardly inferior to the Scesaplana, and not difficult : to the
Tilisuna Hut (Inn) 4V2 hrs. , to the top 3V2 hrs. more.
Above Schruns the valley contracts* At (2 hrs.) Gallenkirch (2730' ; Inn)
the Gargellen - Thai opens to the S., through which tolerable routes cross
the Antdnier or GargelUr Jock (7792*) to (8 hrs.) KUhlis, and the Schlappinef^
Joch (7220*) to (8 hrs.) Klosters in the Pratigau (p. 337). Passing Gnrtepohl,
we next reach (2 hrs.) Gaschurn (Rossi), prettily situated at the mouth of
the Gannerathal, and (1 hr.) Patenen (3wD'-, Inn), the last village in the
Montavon. (Passes into the Patznaun, see Baedeker^s B. Alps.)
From Patenen ovek thb Vbrmunt Pabb to Q-uabpa in the Lower
Engadine (10 hrs.; with guide), tiring, but attractive. We ascend the
Gross-Vermuntthal to the right, between (r.) the Hochmaderer and (1.) the
Cresper-Spitze , to (372 hrs.) tne Gross -Vermunt- Alp (tolerable quarters^
grand mountain view), on the W. side of the Bieler Hdhe. We next ascend
to the S. to the source of the 111 (7140') at the foot of the great Vermunt
Glacier, and toil up the moraine and the glacier to the Yermunt Fasa
(9205'), between _the Dreildnderspitze (10,495') on the E. and Piz Buin
(10,870'), the highest of the VorairlbergHts., on the W. (ascended by adepts
without difficulty from the Vermnnt-Alp in 6 hra.). Sleep descent to the
Vol Tuoi and Guarda (p. 391).
The line crosses the lU beyond (70 M.) Strasaenhaus, and the
Mangbach, descending from the Oamperton-Tkal on the left, near
(73 M.) Nenzing. 77^/2 M. FrastanZj at the mouth of the Samina-
Thai. The Ulthal, below Bludenz called the Wallgau, contracts.
At Feldklrch the river forces a deep passage (Ohere and Vntere III^
klamm) through the limestone rocks before emptying itself into the
I load Rhine Valley. The train crosses the 111, enters the Upper
Klamm, and passes through a short tunnel.
80 M. reldkirch (1482'; pop. 3600; Engliseher Hof or Posti
Lowe; Schdfle, well spoken of; beer at the Rossi'), a natural fortress,
hemmed in hy mountains, and once the key to the Tyrol, is a pleasant
little town, above which rises the luined Schattenburg . A large Jesuit
school here is called the Stella Matutina. The Parish Church, erect-
ed in 1487, contains a 'Descent from the Cross' attributed to Hol-
bein; and the Capuchin Church has another good painting of the
same subject. By the Gymnasium are tasteful Alpine grounds.
■ i.ja .-
;..luttu» ''—"r^ij «»«'-»:5' ,iJ ».«!"■
■• tut tt/Aiftn lamp- ""^
,:,.t J>" t'™'
IbrousU wond to ""
VII. THE ITALIAN LAKES.
107. From Bellinzona to Lugano and Como (Milan) . . 407
Excursions from Lugano. Monte Caprino. Monte S. Sal-
vatore \ Monte Bre, 209. — S. Bernardo ; Bigorio ^ Monte
Boglia; Monte Gamogbe; Monte Tamaroj Yal Maglia-
sina, 410. — Monte Genero80, 411.
108. From Bellinzona to Locarno. Yal Maggia .... 411
Val Verzasca, 412. — From Locarno to Domo d'Ossola
through the Gentovalli and Vigezzo vaUeys ; Val Onser-
none, 413. — Val di.Campo and Val di Bosco, 413. —
Excursions from Bignasco, 413. — Through the Val
Bavona to the Tosa Falls or to Airolo; Piz Basodino,
413. — Val Prato; Campo Tencia, 414. — From Fusio
< to Airolo or to Rodi-Fiesso, 414.
I 109. Lago Maggiore 414
J. Railway from Bellinzona to Luino and Novara . . 415
From Laveno to Milan, 416.
II. Steamboat from Locarno to Arona 416
Val Gannobbino; Sasso di Ferro; S. Gaterina in
Sasso, 417. -:- From Arona to Milan, 421.
110. From Stresa to Orta and Varallo 421
The Sacro Monte near Orta, 422. — From Orta to Novara,
423. — The Sacro Monte near Varallo, ^24. —From Varallo
to Ponte Grande and Alagna \ Val Sermenza, 424. — From
Varallo to Xovara, 424.
111. From Luino on the Lago Maggiore to Menaggio on
the Lake of Como. Lake of Lngano 425
From Ponte Tresa to Lugano by land, 425. — Grottoes
of Osteno and Rescia; Lanzo d'lntelvi, 426.
112. Lake of Como 427
Monte Legnone, 428. — Monte Grigna, 429. — Monte
Cotaiga, 430. — Lake of Lecco, 432. — From Lecco to
Milan and to Bergamo, 433. — From Gomo to Bellagio
by land, via Erba, 433. — From Como to Laveno by
Varese, 434.
113. From Como to Milan 434
107. From Bellinzona to Lugano and Como (Milan) .
Con^. Mcupy p. 426.
Bailwat (comp. p. d5) from Bellinzona to Lugano^ 19 M., in 50-63
min. (3 fr., 2 fr. 10, 1 fr. 50 c.) ; from Lugano to Como, 20 M., in 2 hrs. (3 fr.
20, 2 fr. 25, 1 fr. 60 c.)^ from Lugano to Milan, 48V2 M.,- in 3-3V4 hrs. (8 fr.
55, 6fr. 5, 4fr. 90 c.).
Bellinzona (770'), see p. 103. A tunnel of 313 yds. carries the
train under the Castello di 8vitto (p. 104). At (2^/2 M.) Oiubiasco
the line to the Lago Maggiore (p. 415) dlTerges to the right.
Trending to the left, the Lugano line approaches the foot of the
mountains near Camorino^ and begins to ascend the Monte Cenere^
through walnut and chestnut-trees. 8, Antonio lies below on the
408 Route 107, LUGANO. From BeUinxona
right; then Cadenazto (p, 415). Two tunnels (the PreccuainOf
435 yds. ; and the Meggiagra, 111 yds.). View of the Ticino Valley,
the influx of the Ticino into the Lago Maggiore, Locarno, and the
Val Maggia Mts. , improving as we ascend. We pass under Monte
Cenere, the top of which is 370' above, by means of a tnnnel, 1840
yds. long (1437' above the sea-level), to —
9 M. Rivtra-Bironico (1420') , in the bleak valley of the Le-
guana. We follow the Leguana, which soon joins the Vedeggio, de-
scending from the Mte. Camoghh (p. 410), to form the Agno, Beyond
the short Molincero Tunnel is (15 M.) Tayeme (1130'; *Inn at
Taverne Infer iori). At Lamone (1033') the train leaves the Agno
and ascends past Cadempino and Vezia to the Mcusagno Tunnel
(1135'; 1016 yds. long), describes a long curve (with a fine view of
the lake to the left}, and reaches the station, high above the town, of —
19 M. Lngano. — Hotels. '^H6tel ou Pabc (Biha) in the old mon-
astery of 8. Maria degli AngioUy with garden and three d^pendances (Bel-
vedere, Villa Ceresio, Beau-84jour ; the last, with fine garden, alone open in
winter); R. , L., & A. 5-6, B. IVa, D. 5, omnibus iV«, pens. 9-11 fr.;
'^HoT. Splenoide, 3 min. farther W., on the Paradise road (see below);
"^IldT. National (formerly Villa Enderlm), Bahnhof-Str., with fine garden;
*H6t. Washington, in the chief piazza, R., L., & A. 3, D. 4V« fr. ; Hot.
Suisse, moderate; Hot.-Pbns. Lugano, w^ith a small garden on the lake;
Americana, with restaurant , on the lake, pens. 6fr.; 'Hot.-Pens. Beau-
begard, by the station, R. & L. 3, D. 872, B. iVa fr. ; Pens. Zweifel,
plain and moderate; Pens. Flurt, near the station, 4 fr. ; Grutli, moderate.
— At Paradiso, 1/2 M. to the S., at the foot of Mte. Salvatore, •Hot.-Pens.
Villa-Beaurivage, moderate; *Bellevue, pens. 6-8 fr.; •Hot.-Pens. Rbich-
MANN, 7-9 fr. ; all with gardens on the lake and fine views. — At Ccusarate,
*/i H. to the E., at the foot of Mte. Bre, ''Pens. Villa Castaonola, 8 fr.
Restaurants. * Trattoria Biaggi^ thoroughly Italian, good wine and
cuisine; Lugano^ with garden; Trattoria Americana^ on the lake; Roma^
Piazza del Liceo; Cafi Straub^ in the Hot. Washington. Beer at the Bnui-
erie Bdle, at the E. comer of the piazza on the quay; and Birreria Conti,
near the quay. Rail. Reitavrant. Confectioner: Meitttr.
Lake Baths near the Hotel du Pare (for swimmers ; 50 c. with towels);
Warm Baths at An€ut€uC9, near the same hotel.
Railway Station i/s V. above the town , to the W. Besides the road
there is a shorter footpath and a Cable Tramwat (Funieolare; up 40 or
20c.. down 20 or 10 c; 20 tickets, Icl. 3 fr., 2nd d. IVsfrO — Steaiaboat
Pier (p. 426) by the Hdt. Washington.
Post Office, Via Canova, near the Hdt. Suisse. — Physicians, Dr.
Zbinden, Dr. Reali. — Bookseller, Dalp, Piazza Bandoria.
Carriage to Luino with one hor«e 12, with two 20 fr. (fee extra).
Snglish Oharsh Service at the Hotel do Pare
Lugano (932'; pop. 6129), the largest town in Canton Ticino,
charmingly situated on the lake of the same name, with quite an
Italian climate, is a pleasant place for a prolonged stay. The scenery is
Italian in character ; numerous villages and country-seats are scattered
along the banks of the lake , and the lower hills are covered vith
vineyards and gardens, contrasting beautifully with the dark foliage
of the chestnuts and walnuts. To the S., immediately above the
town , rises the dolomltic Monte S. Salvatore (p. 409), wooded to
its summit; and among the mountains to the N. the double peak of
Monte Camoghh (p. 410) is conspicuous.
to Como. LUGANO. 107. BouU, 409
The interior of the town, with its arcades, workshops in the
open air , and granite-payed streets , is also quite Italian in its
character. In the chief piazza, on the lake, is the Palazzo Civico
(now the H6tel Washington), with a beautiful and cool colon-
naded court. On the broad Quay, planted with trees, rises
a Fountain Statue of Tell by Vela. The church of S. Maria degli
AngioU (opposite, adjoining the H6tel du Pare) contains a fresco
on the rood-loft by Luini, the *Cruciflxion, one of his finest works,
with numerous figures. On the wall to the left is the Last Supper,
in three sections, formerly at the Lyceum, and in the 1st Chapel on
the right a Madonna, both also cd fresco by Lulni. — 8. Lorenzo ,
the principal church, on a height (fine view from the terrace), pro-
bably erected by Tommaso Rodari at the close of the 15th cent., has
a tastefully enriched marble facade. — The beautiful Park Ciani, on
the N. bay of the lake (gardener 1 fr.) contains a fine marble Statue
(^La Desolazione') by Vine. Vela.
To the N. of the town, on a hill commanding the Val Cassarate
(p. 410), is the VUla Luvini, which affords a fine view. Farther off,
near CanobbiOj at the foot of the 8. Bernardo (p. 410; ^/^ia.'), is
the late Baron Derwles's Villa Trevano , with extensive grounds
(accessible on Sun., fee; limited view).
Pleasant Wjllk to the S., on the bank of the lake, through the suburb
of Paradiso. to the (ly* M.) headland of S. Mewtino, a charming point of
view. To tne W. to (IV4 H.) Borengo (Pens. Colline d'Oro, 4 fr.; opposite
to it, ^'Restaur, du Jardin. with garden), with a fine view from the
church on the hill, and (1/3 M. farther) the littie Lake of Muztano. To
the S.W. to the (1 hr.) churchyard of S. Ahbondio^ with a fine monument
of the Torriani family (mourning woman, by Vela); best route to It by
Sorengo and OentUino; hack by PambiOy where there is a monument by
Vela to Capt. Carloni. To the E. to 0/4 hr.) Cmiarate (see below) and thence
by the fine road on the slopes of Mte. Brt to (V2 hr.) Caskignola, in a
charming situation.
KonteOaprino, opposite Lugano, on theE. bank of the lake, is a favourite
holiday resort of the townspeople, who have wine-cellars (cantine) in the
cool grottoes by which the hill-side is honeycombed. The huts guarding
these cellars look like a village from a distance. At some of them good
^Asti* and other wines of icy coolness are sold. These cellars are closed
in the evening. Also a brewery here.
The '^Xonte 8. Salvatore C298Q^\ 2hrs.; guide 4 fr., superfluous; mule
8 fr., incl. guide and fee) is a charming point of view. About y-t M. to the
S. of the Hotel du Pare, at the first house of Paradiso (see above) a
road diverges to the right from the 8. Martino road; 2 min. farther,
where the road divides, we go straight on to the houses, and ascend
between them, and under the railway. We pass the (20 min.) handsome and
conspicuous Villa IfareMno and reach (5 min.) the village of Patzallo^ from
which Monte £osa is visible through an opening in the mountains. Here
we diverge to the left by a lane *A1 Honte'' (rough and stony), to the (IV2 hr.)
Pilgrimage Chapel on the summit (small inn near it). The *Vibw embraces
all the arms of the Lake of Lugano, the mountains and their wooded slop'es,
and the beautiful villas and gardens above Lugano. To the £. above Por-
lezza is Monte Legnone (p. 428); to the K. , above Lugano, rises the
double peak of Honte Camogh^; to the left of this are the distant Bhein-
wald Mts.; towards the W. is the Monte Rosa chain, with the Matterhom
and other Valaisian Alps to the right. (Morning light most favourable.)
The *Xoiite Bri (SiOCK; 2Vs hrs. from Lugano; guide needless; mule
i\0 Route 107. MONTE BOGLIA. From BeUinxona
10 fr.) afiVnrds anotber beautiful walk. A road at the E. end of the Quay
leadfl to the left by the Piasza Ca«tello, then to the right past the Villa
Ciani , and crosses the (V4 hr.) Cassarate to the 0/« br.) hamlet of Cassa-
rate (Hdt.-Pens. Castagnola, p. 406) at the 8. base of the mountain. Thence
a broad path winds upwards to the right, passing a few groups of houses,
to the hamlet of Desago. Above Desago the path divides : both branches,
equally good, lead round to the (2 hrs.) village of Brh (263l'j Restaur. St Pens.
Ongarato), at the back of the hill. The route to the right, in view of the
lake, is of surpassing beauty \ that to the left commands a fine inland view.
From the diiurch of Brk a narrow forest-path ascends to the W. to the
(V2 hr.) top of the hill. This path also divides, both branches being at-
tractive : that to the right ascends at once ; that to the left first leads to
a spur in the direction of Lugano, and then ascends at the back of the
hill. Beautiful view of the different bays of the Lake of Lugano, especially
towards Porlezza, and of the surrounding mountains. Lugano is visible
from the above-mentioned spur, but not from the top.
To 8. Bbbnaboo and Bioobio (there and back, with stay, 5-6 hrs.).
A cart-track on the fertile slopes to the K. of Lugano leads by MasscMno^
Savosa, Porza^ and Comano to the (iVs hr.) church of 8. Bernardo (SSOC),
on a rocky plateau, \vith a picturesque view. (At the 8.E. base of \ht
hill are the village of CanohHo ana the chiteau of Tr90«mo\ p. 409.)
Thence (at first following the top of the hill to the N.; no path) to
BnUa and the (ii/i hr.) monastery of Bigorio (2360*} refreshmts.) , charm-
ingly situated on the wooded hill of that name. (The church contains
a Madonna attributed to Quereino or Perino del Vaga.) Back by Po»t»
Oapriasoa (with a church containing a good old copy of Leonardo da
Vinci*s Last Supper), past the little Lake of Orifflio^ and by Cureglia^
VexiOy and Mcusoffno to (2 hrs.) Lugano. — PohU Capriaaca (see above) is
itself worth visiting: rail to Tantme (p. 408), ascend to the village in
i/s hr., and return by Teiswete (see below, in all 3>/t hr8.)>
*Mont6 Boglia (4960^; 4 hrs.), a hUl visible from Lugano to the left
of Mte. Br6 (guide desirable). Ascent by Bcragno and the Alp Bolla in
472, or from Bri (see above) in 2 hrs. (steep). View little inferior to
that from Mte. Generoso. Descent on the E. side through the grassy Val
Soldo to (kuMlo and S. Mamette (a steamboat-station) or Oria ^. 426).
Monte Oamoghe (7908'; 7-8 hrs. from Lugano: guide from (3olla>, a
famous point of view, is fatiguing. Road through the Val Caasarate to
Teiterete (Inn) \ then to the right into the picturesque Val di Colla^ to (12 M. ;
carr. in 27% hrs.) Scareglia or Lower Colla (8205'; ^Osteria Oarzirola). We
then (with guide) ascend by Colla and the Alp Pi€lraroi»a, leaving the Mte.
Qartirola (see below) to the right, to the (3 hrs.) Alp Sertena 0)822') and the
(I'/s hr.) top, where we enjoy a striking panorama of the Alps Arom Mte.
Rosa to the Ortler. — The descent may be made to the N., by the RivoUe
and Lev§no Alps, to the VeU iforo&Mo, Ohilbiaeeo^ and (5 hrs.) BtUinsona
(p. 104 ; ascent ot the (3amogh6 from Bellinzona, 7-o hrs.). — Monte OarwbniHa
(6942'), 8 hrs. from Colla, also repaying. — From the Val Colla an interesting
walk over the pass of B. Lvcio (^1') to Porlezza, or over the Cima deW
Arabione (5028' i fine view) to the Val Soldo (p. 426), or to the Val Soldo
by a path passing the curious dolomite pinnacles of the Denii di Vecehia.
Monte Tamaro (6488'-, 4V<-6hr8.t guide) from Taveme (p. 406) or^tro-
neeo (p. 408), not difficult. Splendid view of Lago Maggiore, etc.
Val Magliatina. Beautiful drive by Agno (p. 426), Venutte^ and Cade-
mario to (8 M.) Breno (2106'; Ost. Femgo) ; back by Novaggio and Maglituo
(p. 4^). Pleasant walk from Breno over Mte, Lemo (5312^; splendid view)
to 5-6 hrs.) Luino (p. 417) ; or back to Lugano by S. Bernardo (see above).
Circuit op Momtb Sai.vatobe (a drive of 2V« hrs.t carr. with one
horse 7, two horses 14 fr.). Road by (1 1/2 M.) Patnbio (p. 409) and through
the pretty Val Seairolo to (3 M.) Figtito^ where we reach the W. arm of
the lake. We then follow the lake, rounding the Mte. Arbostora (p. 426),
to (2 M.) Moreote and (8 M.) MeUde (p. 411). Thence to Lugano 4 M.
more.
To the * Grotto of Ostono, see p. 426. Ascent of Mt», Oeneroio^ p. 411.
to Como. MONTE GENEROSO. 107, Route. 411
From Lugano to Oomo (20 M.). The train describes a curve
round the bay of Lngano (charming view to the left) , and passes
through the Paradiso Tunnel (833 yds.) under the N.E. spur of
Monte 8. Salvatore (p. 409). It then passes 8, Martino and
skirts the Lake of Lugano (p. 426). The banks are wooded to a con-
siderable height. On the water's edge lie several villages. Beyond
(5M.) Melide (De Micheli's Inn , good wine), the train and the
road cross the lake to Biasone by a stone vladnct V2 ^* ^^^Si which
sadly mars the scenery. At each end there Is an arch for the passage
of boats. To the right a pleasant view of the lake, which branches into
two bays (p. 426). Two tunnels (the Bissone^ 278yds.; and the Ma-
roggiaj 625 yds.). Then (7 1/2 M.) Maroggia (Elvetia), at the W. base of
iheMte. Generoso (see below). At(10M.) Capolago we quit the lake,
follow the right bank of the LaveggiOj and enter the fertile valley of —
121/2 M. Mendrigio (1190'; pop. 2749; *H6t. MendrUio, B.,
L., & A. 372) ^' ^V2 ^'m *A.ngeU)y moderate, good wine), a small
town 1/2 M. from the station.
The ^Konte Generoso ^5610i M. Oionneroy or M. Calvaggione^ the Bigi
of Italian Switzerland, is frequently ascended from Mendrisio (to the hotel
2V2~3 hrs.). Guides (unnecessary) and mules (6 fr.) may be hired at Men-
drisio; small vehicle to the top for one person 10, there and back 16 fr.
and fee. The bridle-path (shade in the afternoon) ascends by the wine-cellar
of Salorino in zigzags (walkers may go through the village and follow the
telegraph-wires) to a wooded dale, at the entrance to which there is a
spring by the wall on ttie left, and at the upper end of the dale we reach
({i/s hrs.) another, the source of the brook. Farther on we pass through
scanty forest to the (1 hr.) *Hdtel du Oiniroio (R., L., & A. 4-5, D. 5, pens, from
9 fr. ; post and telegr. offices ; English Church Service), the property of Signora
Pasta of Mendrisio. Farther on (V4 hr.), beyond the crest of the hill, are the
chalets of Cassina., with a fine breed of cattle. Pleasant paths lead to the (20
min.) Bellavista, with a fine view of the Lake of Lugano and the Alps. — From
the hotel to the top an ascent of IVa hr., passing several peaks of the Gene-
roso. Near the top is a small inn. The "^Yiew (Panorama at the hotel)
embraces the lakes of Lugano, Como, Varese, and Maggiore, the populous
plains of Lombardy, and the entire Alpine chain to the N., from Monte
Viso to the Bemina. Rich flora. — Monte Generoso may also be ascended
from Maroggia (see above) by Rovio (Hot. des Pr^lpes) , or from Balema
(see below) by Muggio in i^Vx hrs. (roads to Rovio and M.uggio, beyond
which the ascent is fatiguing). — From Lanzo d'lntelvi (bridle-path, SVx
hrs.), see p. 426 (recommended for the return, 6 hrs. to Osteno).
The short Coldrefio Tumul carries us through the watershed
between the Laveggio and the Breggia. 15^/2 M. Balema,
I6V2 M. CMasso (764'; ^Bail. Restaur.; *H6tel Suisse, by
the station), the last Swiss village (custom-house ; usually a long
halt). The line pierces the Monte Olimpino by means of a tunnel 3190
yds. long, and passes Borgo 7tco, a suburb of Gomo, on the left.
20 M. Como (p. 433); thence to Milan, see R. 113.
108. From Bellinzona to Locarno. Val lEagg^a.
BAII.WAT to Locarno, 14 M., in 'A hr. (2 fr. 30, 1 fr. 60, 1 fr. 50 c).
The Val Maggia, 25 M. long, with its bold rock-scenery, its rich vege-
tation, and its pretty villages and grand waterfalls, deserves a visit,
partienlarly in spring or autumn. A good starting-point for excursions
4\2 Route 108, LOCARNO. From BelUnfsona
is Bignatco (reached by diligence from Locarno twice daily in 3>/i brs. ;
diligence from Bignasco to Fusio in summer daily in 3 hrs.).
To (5Y2 M.) CadenazzOf see p. 415. The Locarno line diverges
to the right, and below (r.) Cugnaaco crosses the Ticino, 10 M.
Oordola , with productiye yineyards , at the mouth of the Val
Venasea.
Yal Yenaaca. A road (diligence from Locarno to Sonogno daily in
4V« hrs.) ascends the deep and picturesque valley, watered by the beauti-
ful Verzasca with its countless falls. This stream and its tributaries
abound in fish and are often of an exquisite transparent green. The lover
of nature should descend into the ravine and explore some of the deli-
cious rocky pools. The road leads by (r.) Vogorno and (1.) Cor^»po to
(8 M.) Lavtrtezto (Inn) and (4 M.) Briona (2497'; /im), the chief vUlage
in the valley, at the mouth of the Val d'Osola, through which a route
(with guide) leads to the Forcaretla Coceo (7010'), the Val Coceo and
(8 hrs.) Bignoico (p. 413). Ascending to the K. through the main valley,
we next come to Oerra, FrMco^ and (4Vx H.) Sonoirno (2982* ; /mi»), the
last village, where the valley again divides. Thence to the W. over the
Patso di Redorta (7140'), between the Corona di Bedorta and Hte. Zuc-
ehero, to the Val Prato and (8 hrs. \ guide) Prato (p. 414), interesting. Another
attractive route leads to the N. by Cabione and the Alp Bedeglia to the
Passo di Loffhetto (6920*), to the W. of the Cima Bianca; it then descends
to the Alp del Logo (6046'), with its little lake ('laghetto*) and through
the Val Chironico to (8 hrs.) Oiomico (p. 103). — Walkers desiring to
return from Brione to Locarno should cross the Verzasca 2 M. to the S.
of Lavertezzo and ascend on the right bank by Corippo to Mergotda^
from which a road skirting a deep ravine and commanding fine views
leads by Contra to (3Vr4 hrs.) Locarno,
The train crosses the brawling Vtrzasea and runs on the bank
of the Logo Maggiore to —
14 M. LooarnO. — ^Gkand Hotbl Locasko, with garden, view of
the lake, and English Chapel, B., L., & A. 3Vt-6, lunch 3, D. 5 fr.; "Corona,
on the lake; ''Hot. Sdissb, in the chief piazza, moderate; Pkms. RKssa,
with garden on the lake, moderate, pens, from 5V« fr.; Ai.bbrqo S.
GoTTABDo; furnished rooms at Qiul. BorgheUft; Rail, BettaurmU.
Loeamo (68!i'; pop. 2645, Rom. Oath.), a busy little tO¥m of
thoroughly Italian character, is beautifully situated on the Lago
Maggiore at the mouth of the Maggia, Since 1513 it has belonged
to Switzerland. In the 15th cent, the town Is said to have contained
5000 Inhab ; but by an Intolerant decree in 1553 several of the
most Industrious Protestant families were banished for refusing to
conform to the Rom. Gath. ritual. A number of these (the OrtUi,
MuraltOj and others) repaired to Zurich, where they founded the
sllk-manufactorles which still flourish. Fine view from the ^Ma-
donna del Scuso (1168'), a pilgrimage-church with its attendant
oratories on a wooded rock above the town (1/2 ^f* ; steep paved
path). The chureh contains a *De8cent from the Cross by Ciseri.
The view from Mte. ddla Trtnttd, 10 min. higher up, is still more
extensive.
At the market held at Locarno on alternate Thursdays the
picturesque costumes of the neighbouring peasantry are seen to
advantage. The greatest gala-day is 8th Sept., the Nativity of
the Virgin.
Steamboats on the Lago Maggiore j see R. 109.
to Locarno, VAL MAGGIA. 108. BouU. 413
FsoM LocABNo TO DoMo d'Ossola, 11 hrs., a beautiful route, but
rough and fatiguing at places , through the Yal Oentoyalli and the Yal
di VigeBZ<». Road to Losone and (A H.) Intragna (1900' ; Inn), pictures-
quely situated at the confluence of the MeUta and the Ontemone. Then
a bad path on the left bank of the Melesa by (2V3 hrs.) BorgnoM (2316';
Inn) to (1/4 hr.) Comedo^ the last Swiss village, and across the Italian
frontier to (IVs hr.) Ri (Inn), a resort of pilgrims. Boad thence by (3 M.)
MalesM (Leon d'Oro), where the new road from the Val Cannobbino joins
OUTS on the left (p. 417). to S. Maria Maggiore (2713'-, *Oroce di HalU),
the capital of the Val vigezso, and (8 M.) Bomo cTOssola (p. 290).
Yal Onsernoae. Road (diligences from Locarno to Gomologno and
Vergeletto daily in SVz hrs.) across the Ponie BroUa (see below) to (IVs M.)
Caviffliano^ where a road to Intragna (see above) diverges to the left.
We then ascend to the N.W., through the picturesque Val Onsemone^ in
numerous windings to Loco (Inn) and (G^/e H.) JRusso (263S'), where the
valley divides. The road bends into the W. branch of the valley and at
the picturesque Ponte Oscuro, where the road to Vergeletto diverges to the
right, it turns and ascends the S. branch past Crana to (IVa hr.) Gomologno
[3503'; no tolerable inn). From (V4 hr.) Spruga, where the road stops,
i bridle-path crosses the Italian frontier to the (IV4 H.) rustic Bagni di
Oraveggia^ with a sulphur-spring, whence an easy route crosses the
iocchelta di 8. Antonio to (5 hrs.) S. Maria Maggiore (see above). — In
he N. branch of the valley, 3 M. from Russo, lies Vergeletto (2990'; *Osteria
>omenigone). Thence to Gimalmotto (see below) over the Peuso di Por-
ireccio^ or to Cevio by the L<sgo di Alzasca, interesting (with guide).
Yal Maggia. The load leads on the left bank of the Maggia,
1th its numerous falls, past the picturesque (2 M.) Ponit Brolla
'20^; route to the Val Onsemone, see above), toAvegno, CordeviOj
d (4V2 M.) Maggia (1138'; *Alhergo Garzoli), a considerable
[lage. To the right is the fine Cascata della Pozzaccia. Then by
glio, OiumagliOj SomeOy and Riveo (passing the beautiful Sola-
no Fall, 330' high, on the left) to VisUtto and (6V2 M.) Cevio
180'; Alb della Piazza Grande ; ^Restaur. delBasodino, with a few
us ; Cafe del Orutli), the capital of the valley, with fine groups
rees and an interesting church, at the mouth of the Val Rovana,
The steep Yal Kovana divides at (SVs H.) Collognasca (2640) into (1.)
Val di Campo and (r.) the Val di Bobco. In the former lie (SVs K.)
00 (^430*; Inn) and (IV4 M.) Cimalmotto (Inn), the church of which
a porcli with interesting frescos. Thence over the Porcareccio Pats
<fr^eietto^ aee above; over the Posjo di Boea (7405*) and through the
Tsomo to (6 hrs.) Crevola^ easy; over the Pcuso di Oraverola (Seatta
"omoy 8290') to Premia, or over the Passo della Seatta 0420') and the
• di Cornelia to Crodo in the Val Antigorio (p. 297), both easy (guide).
the Val di Bosco, 5 M. from Collognasca, lies Bosco (4930'; Inn),
also Orin or Owrin, the only German village in Canton Ticino.
!e over the Criner Furka to the Val Formazza, see p. 297.
y^ M. JBignasco (1424'; ♦fiot. du Glacier, R., L., & A. 3V2>
2, B. 1 V4 ^rO» ^^ charmingly situated at the mouth of the Vol
»€z. Beautiful excursions in the numerous surrounding valleys.
lasAnt vealks to the (1/4 hr.) WaXtrfall of Bigneueo and the (3/4 hr.)
la eld Jii'ontif a fine point of view ; back by two very fine water-
jbe J3€»srt^o di Nerone and the Piccolo Niagara. Also to Cevio and
llf.;) CkgsccUa di Soladino (see above); to (3 hrs.) S. Carlo, (SVs hrs.)
tc. C»eo P- 414).
;ouo^ rras Val Bavoka to thb Toba Falls, ob to Airolo.
X tbe picturesque ""Yal Bavona, which opens to the N.W. of
7 » road leads by Cavergno , Fontana , and Sonlerto to (3 hrs.)
(SlOO'^y at the £. base of the Basodino (10,748'; ascent from the
414 l^otttei 09. LAGO MAOOIORE. Logo
H.E. side, over the BModino Glacier, trying, but not dangeroas; deacent
to the Tosa FaUa, see p. 296). From 8. Carlo with guide (G. Padovani)
by Caamo to the Alp RobM (6566'), and to the W. through the Vol Fiorina
to the BoccheUa di ViOmaggia (^UJ') and (7 hrs.) AiiS der Frut (p. 294). —
Travellers bound for Airolo, instead of crossing the bridge leading to the
Alp Bobici, follow the left bank of the stream (with guide) and ascend
by the Alp U^lpe and Pioda. past the little Logo Sciundrau (77200, to the
(5 hrs.) Cristailina Furea (8474'), to the W. of Pit CristalUma (954T) ; then
descend over a patch of snow into the Val Torta aud through tiie Vat
Crittallina to Ostateo (p. 293) and (3 hrs.) Airolo (p. 101).
The road in the YalMaggia, called ValBroglio above this point,
next leads to Broglio and (4V2 M.) Prato (2460' ; Inn^ rustic), at
the mouth of the Vol PratOt which ascends to the E. to the Campo
Teneia, (Over the Redorta Pa88 to the Val Venaaea, see p. 396).
The Oampo Teneia (10,124'; 8-9 hrs. from Prato; with guide), s
magnificent point of view, is trying. Through the pretty Val Prato to
the highest chalets of the Corte di Oampo Teneia (7250') fi hrs.; then, 00
the E. side, up the crest of the CroxUna Glacier to the (S4 hrs.) summit.
Experts may descend to the E. to the Alp Crotlina and by Dalpe to
Faido (p. 10^.
At (IV4M.) Peccia (2785'; Inn, rustic) the valley divides into
the (1.) Vol Peccia and the (r.) Val Lavizzaray so called from the
4avezzo' stone found here. The road ascends the latter, at first
in many windings, past (r.) Mogno^ to (88/4 M.) Ttuio (4202';
*H6t. Dazio)j the last village, most picturesquely situated.
Interesting passes from Fusio (with guide) : to the N. by Stunbwco^
Corte, and the Sattello Pass (7697') to (5V« hrs.) Airolo. More attractive
to the N.E. by Colla and the Alp Pianatcio to the Campolungo Pass
(7695'); descent either to the right by the Alp Cadonighino and IkUpe
(see above) to (8 hrs.) Faido (p. 102), or to the left past the little Logo
Tremorgio (5997) to the (2 hrs.) station of Rodi-Fiesso (p. 102).
109. Lago Maggiore.
Railway from Bellinsona by Luino to Novara^ 67 H., in 4-5 hrs. (12 fr.,
8 fr. 45, 6 fr.) ; from Bellinsona to Loeamo, 14 M., in */4 hr. (see p. 411).
Laveno is the station for Pallanea, the Borromean Islands, etc.
Steamboat three times daily in sumjner from Locarno to Laveno, and
six or seven times daily from Laveno to the W. bay of the lake (Intra,
Pallansa, Borromean Islands, and Stresa) and Arona. From Locarno to
Arona 4Vr5 hrs., from Luino to Isola Bella 2V4 (from Laveno IV4) hrs.;
from Isola Bella to Arona 11/4 hr. (fare from Locarno to Arona 6 fr. 85 or
3 fr. aO c, from Luino to Isola Bella 1 fr. 65 0. or 1 fr., from Isola Bella to
Arona 1 fr. 95 or 1 fr. 16 c, landing and embarking included^. The steamboat
is the best and cheapest conveyance to Isola Bella, especially for a single
traveller (from Pallanza 60, from Baveno 50, from Stresa 40c.) ; but strict
punctuality is not always observed. Return-tickets, available for one day,
are issued on Sundays only. The Italian time Is 20 min. in advance of the
Swiss. — Stations (those in Italics not always touched at) : Locarno, Ma-
gadino, Ascona (small boat stat.), Oerra^ Brissago, Gannobbio, Maecagno^
Luino, Cannero, OggebbiOy Oftiffa (small boat stat.), Porto VeUtravagUa, La-
veno, Intra, Pallanza, 8una (small boat stat.), Feriolo, Baveno, Isola
Buperiore, Isola Bella, Stresa, Belgirate, Lesa, Heina, Angera^ Arona. —
Travellers who are not pressed for time should go to Locarno only by
railway, and take the steamer thence to Pallanza, tiie Borromean Islands,
Baveno, Stresa, and Arona. (Custom-house examination on board.)
Boat (barea) from Baveno (p. 419) to the Borromean Islands, if the
excursion does not last more than Q7s hrs., Qi/sfr. for each rower (for
1-8 pers. a rowers, for 4-6 pers. 3, more than 6 pers. 4 rowers), so that
Maggiore, LUINO. 109. Route, 415
the half-hour''s passage to the Isola Bella is dear; but better terms may
sometimes be made. Without a rower the usual charge is 1 fr. per hour.
— Halfway between Baveno and Stresa, opposite the Isola Bella, is a ferry,
where the charge for the short crossing (10 min.) is 1-2 fr. ; the other
boatmen demand 5 fr. — The passage from Stresa costs 2 fr. for each rower
(one enough) ; the return-trip must be paid for by time, 2 fr. for each
rower for the first hour, and 50 c. for each additional V2 ^i** (gratuity also
expected). — From Lcuteno (p. 417) to the Borromean Islands and Pallanza,
with three rowers, 10-12 fr. (to Isola Bella IV2 hr. , thence to the Isola
Hadre 20 min., and to Pallanza 20 min. more).
The *Lago Maggiore (646', greatest depth 2800Q, the Laeus
Verhanus of the Romans, is about 37 M. long, and averages iy2''3M.
in width. The N. end for a distance of 9 M., sometimes called the
Ldke of LoeamOj belongs to Canton Tlcino. The W. bank beyond
the brook VaJmiara, and the E. bank from the Dirinella belong to
Italy. The chief tributaries of the lake are on the N. the Ticino and
the Maggia^ and on the W. the Tosa, The river emerging from the
S. end retains the name of Ttcino. At the N. end the lake is en-
closed by lofty mountains, for the most part wooded. The W. bank
presents a series of charming landscapes, while the £. bank towards
the lower end slopes gradually down to the plains of Lombardy.
The water is green in its N. arm, and deep blue at the S. end.
I. Railway fsom Bbllinzona by Luiko to Not aba.
From Belllnzona to (21/2 M.) Oiubicuco, see p. 407. The train
diverges here from the Monte Cenere line and traverses the broad
lower Ticino Valley. 6^/2 M. Cadenaxzo, the junction for Locarno
(p. 412). At (10 Y2 M.) Magadino (p. 416) the train reaches the
Lago Maggiore, and skirts itsE. bank (views to the right). Opposite
lies Locarno, at the mouth of the Maggla. 12^2 M. 8, Naxzaro;
14^2 M. Ranzo-Oerra (opposite Brissago, p. 416). At Zenna we
cross the Dirinella^ the boundary of Italy, and pass through a tunnel.
17 M. FiiLO, the first Italian station. The bank becomes steep
and rocky, and the construction of the railway was attended with
much difficulty here. (To Luino six. tunnels, besides many cut^
tings and viaducts.) Delightful views of the lake to the right.
On the opposite bank lies Cannobbio (p. 416). Farther on rises the
headland of Gannero, with the picturesque castles of that name on
a rocky islet (p. 417). At (21 M.) Maceagno we cross the Qiona^
and then pass through several tunnels.
25 M. Luino (p. 417; Buffet)^ beautifully situated. Italian and
Swiss custom-houses. To Lugano, see p. 426.
The train crosses the Margorabbia (p. 417), below its union
with the Tresa (p. 426), and leads past Oermignaga and through a
tunnel to (2972 M.) Porto Valtravaglia. Beyond a tunnel under
the castle of Calde (;p. 417) we skirt the bay of Calde (several via-
ducts and embankments), opposite Intra, an important looking
place (p. 418), and then pass through the Tunnel of Calde, fully
13/4 M. in length, the longest on the lake.
416 Route 109. MA6ADIN0. Logo
34^2 ^< Iiftveno (p. 417) lies at tho foot of the Sclsso di Ferro
(p. 417). This is the broadest part of the lake. Splendid view of
the bay of Stresa, Pallanza aud Intra to the right, and the Bor-
romean Islands in the middle ; farther back are the granite quar-
ries of Baveno, with the snowy peaks of Monte Rosa and theSimplon
in the distance; and above Stresa rises Mte. Motterone with its
new hotel.
Laveno is the station for Intra^ PalUmza^ 8tre»a^ and the Borromean
Itiand*. (Steamer and small boats, see p. 414. Omnibus l^rom the station
to the pier in 6 min.) — To Varete^ see p. 434.
Fbojc Laveno to Milan, 45V2 M., railway in 2V2 hrs. (8 fr. 30, 5 fr.
80, 4 fr. 20 c). 21/2 M. S. Giano. The train diverges to the left from the
Sesto line, passing MonvdllB on the right (see below), and passes through
a tunnel. 5 M. Buozzo; 10 M. Tertuzte-VerauOj on the pretty JMgo di
Comabbio. A long tunnel. 14 H. Crugnokhdmbro; 16 M. Beznate. 20 X.
Gallarale^ and thence to (451/? M.) Milan^ see p. 435.
The train leaves the lake and passes through the Mombello
Tunnel (1287 ydB.! 361/2 M. Legghtno-MonvaUe ; 4OV2 M. Upra,
on a promontory ; 43 M. Taino-Angera.
47 M. SeBto-Calendey at the efflux of the Tieino from Lago
Maggiore, is the junction for Arena and for Bitilan (p. 435). We
cross the Tieino by a handsome iron bridge, borne by two granite
piers 99' in height, which also carries over the Simplon road, run-
ning above the railway. We follow the right bank of the Tieino.
AQ}A,Caaiell€ttO; 51 M. Porto VaraUo. Then a long tunnel. 52V2M.
Pombia; 5672 M. Oleggio^ the junction of the Arona and Novara
line (see Baedeker' 9 N, JtiUy)^
II. Stbahboat from Locabno to A&ona.
Locarno^ see p. 412. Opposite, at the mouth of the Tieino^ lies
Magadino (H6t. Bellevue, on the lake), Inferiore and Superiore.
To the S. of Locarno, where the deposits of the Maggia have
formed a large delta, the bank is covered vrith villages, country-
houses, and campanili. The road from Locarno to Intra runs
close to the lake. In an angle lies Ascona, with a ruin and a semi-
nary for priests ; then Roneo^ higher up the bank. Passing two islets,
the steamer reaches BriBsago (*H6t, Suisse)^ a delightful spot, with
picturesque white houses, and a cypress-avenue leading to the
church. The slopes above are covered with fig-trees, olives, and
pomegranates; even the myrtle flourishes in the open air. On a
green plateau on the opposite bank lies Pino (p. 415).
The first Italian villages are 8. Agata and Oumobbio (^H6t.
CannobbiOf at the landing-place, R. IVs"^) pens, 6 fr. ; AVbergo delle
Alpi, moderate ; *Pen8, ViUa BadiOj U/4 M. to the N., pens. 6-7 fr.).
The latter (pop. 2600) , one of the oldest and most important
places on the lake, lies at the entrance of the Vol CannobbinOy and
is overshadowed by wooded mountains. The church Delia Pietitj the
dome of which is attributed to Bramante, contains a Bearing of the
Cross by Gaud. Ferrari.
Maggiore, LUINO. 1.09. Route. 417
Pleasant walk up the picturesque Val Oannobbino to (IV4 U.) La Salute
(hydropathic), and to the (20 min.) Orrido^ a wild rocky scene, where
there is a waterfall in spring (best viewed from a boat, 1 fr.). — A new
road ascends the beautiful valley, frequently crossing the river, and pass-
ing the villages of Spoccia (Osteria Americana on the road-side), Ofasio,
Cursolo^ and Ourro on the heights on each side. It then crosses a low
hill to Finero (Inn) and Maleseo in the Val Vigezzo and descends to (14 M.)
S. Maria Maggiore (p. 413). One-horse carriage from Cannobbio to S. Maria
in 5 hrs., 15 fr., two-horse carr. 35 fr.
The steamer now steers to the £. bank , and stops at MaeeagnOj
whence we may visit the (2 hrs.) loftily situated Lago d'Eglio (2950';
*Hotel ; fine view). Passing Cameda in a wooded ravine, we next
reach —
Lnino or Luvino {H6t Simplony B., L., & A, 3 fr. ; *Grand
Hdtel Luino, at the station, with the rail, restaur. ; Victoria; Posta)^
with the Palaxito CriveUi amid pines, a station on the St. Gott-
hard Railway (p. 415 ; station V2^- ^^^^^ *^e pier) and on the Ponte
Tresa line (p, 425). The Piazza Garibaldi is embellished with a
statue of the general. The principal church is adorned with fres-
coes by Bernardino Lulni, a native of the place (d. 1530). At the
mouth of the Margorabbia, ^2 ^> ^ ^^^ ^-i ^^^ Otrmignaga, with
the large silk-spinning (filanda) and winding (filatojaj factories of
Cesare Bozotti and Go. of Milan. (Admission by written permission
from the firm.)
Near the W. bank, on rocks rising from the lake, are the two
grotesque-looking CcuteUi di Canneroj half in ruins, the property
of Count Borromeo. In the l&th cent, they harboured the five broth-
ers Mazzarda, notorious brigands; the terror of the district. Cannero
(Tre Re) is beautifully situated amidst vineyards and olive-groves.
We next pass Oggebbio and Okiffa (*H6t. Ghiffa) on the W. bank,
and Porto Vcdtravaglia (Osteria Antica) on the E. bank, villages at
which the steamers do not always stop. In a wooded bay lies Calde,
with the old tower of Castello di Calde on a hill. Between Ghiffa
and Laveho Monte Rosa and the Simplon group are visible to the W.
Laveno (*Po8ta ; Moro ; Stella) , a large village , beautifully
situated in a bay at the mouth of the BoesiOj once a fortified Austrian
harbour. Superb view of the lake and the mountains from Fort
Oarihaldi (1/2 hr.), on a headland IV2 M. to the S.W. — St, Gott-
hard Railway, see p. 415.
At the back of Laveno rises the green Basso di Ferro (3920*), the most
beautiful mountain on the lake, easily ascended in 2V2 hrs., and affording
a magnificent view of the lake, the plain as far as Milan, and the huge
snow-peaks of the Monte Bosa chain. Even from the neighbourhood of
Laveno the five-peaked Monte Bosa is visible beyond the hills of the
opposite bank. — Interesting excursion (2 hrs.) to the monastery of S.
Caterina in Sasso, high above the lake. Imbedded in the roof of the church
is a mass of rock which fell upon it in the last century and has remained
there ever since. — Railway from Laveno by Varese to ComOy see p. 434.
— Railway by Gallarate to Milan, see p. 421.
As we approach Intra a valley opening to the W. suddenly dis-
closes a most striking surrey of the N. neighbours of Monte Rosa :
Baedekeb, Switzerland. 12th Edition. 27
418 SoutelOB. PALLANZA. Logo
first the Strahlhorn, then the MischSbelhonier and the Simplon.
They are lost to view as the steamer rounds the point between Intra
and Pallanza, but soon re-appear, and remain visible until we reach
Isola Bella. To the left appears Mte. Motterone, with the hotel
near the top.
Intra (*H6t. de la VilU ^ Poite, R., L., & A. 31/2, B. IV4 fr. ;
ViteUo ^' Leon d^Oro, moderate; H6t. Intra; Agnello), a town of
5000 inhab., with several factories, ehiefly belonging to Swiss firms.
It lies on alluvial soil between the mouths of two torrents, the 8.
Oiovanni and 8, Bernardino (see below). On the Quay is a marUe
statue of Garibaldi — On the lake, 3/4 M. to the N., is the *Vaia
Frantosini, with beautiful gardens containing magnificent camellias
and magnolias, and 3/4 M. beyond it is the *ViUa Ada of Prince
Trubetzkoy, also noteworthy for its wealth of vegetation (numerous
palms, huge Eucalypti, etc.).
DaiOEMCB over the Simplon to Brieg^ ^^ R* 79. — Local steamers
and omnibuses ply between Intra and Pallansa. — Pleasant walk from
Intra to the U". by the new road to (5 M.) Premeno (2214'^ *ff6t. Pent,
Pr«menc, finely situated). Above it (10 min.) is the Tornieo^ a platform
laid out in honour of Garibaldi, with a good sprinf and a beautiful view
of the Alps. A few min. higher is the ^BeUavista, an admirable point of
view, commanding the lake to the E. and the beautiful and fertile Val
Intrskgna to the W., with its numerous villages.
A church on the promontory of 8. RenUgiOj IV2 ^> ttom Intra,
halfway to Pallanza, occupies the site of a Roman temple of Venus.
At the foot of the hill is the Birreiia della Gastagnola. Adjacent
is the Villa 8, RemigiOj the residence of the Browne family
(visitors admitted ; *yiew from the balcony). The little Isola 8,
Oiovanni , near Pallanza , with its chapel , house , and gardens,
is one of the Borromean Islands.
Pallansa. — *Qraiid HStkl Pallaksa, a large house, finely situated,
V2 M. from the landing-place, with several ddpendances and extensive
grounds, R., L., & A. 4-6, B. li/s, D. 5, warm bath 2Vst lake-bath IVst
board in summer 7, in winter 6V2-9'/«ff' » omnibus from the quay lV4fr. —
^HdT. Qaboni, V* V* higher up, splendidly situated, with grounds (Engl,
landlady), pens. 8-12 fr. ; omnibus from the quay. — ^Posta, on Uie lake
(Engl, landlady), R., L., A A. 8, B. IV4, D. 4, pens. 6-8fr.i *HdT. Milan,
also on the lake, R. 2, D. ind. wine 8Vs fr. ; Italia ; 8. Oottardo.
Boats. With one rower to Isola Madre and back 2Vsf with two 4Vs
fr. ; to Isola Bella and back S'/s or 6 fr. t to both islands and back 4 or
7 fr. ; to Stresa and back SVz or 6 fk*. ^ to Laveno and back SVs or 7fr.. etc.;
boat without rower usually 1 fr. per hour. The hirer should ask the enarge
before embarking. The hotels have boats of their own at similar charges.
PaUanza, a busy town with 3900 inhab., is beautifully situated
opposite the Borromean Islands and commands a fine view. The
quay, planted with trees, affords a pleasant walk. Some of the nursery-
gardens here (Rovelliy Cerutti, etc.; fee i/j-l fr.) are worthy of a visit.
Interesting walk by the shady avenue of chestnut-trees leading to the
Madonna di Cempetffna; by the church to the right round the MonU RottOy
and ascending the course of the S. Bernardino, to Trobaso and the ancient
Roman bridge of Santino (iVs hr.), whence we may return to (1 hr.) Psl-
^nza by JN«no, (knendone, and Buna.
The lake here forms a large bay, towards the W., into which
Maggiore. ISOLA BELLA. 109, Route. 419
falls the impetuous Tosa or Toce. On the N.E. bank lies 8una^
(Pens. Gamenisch) and at the W. end of the bay FeriolOj stations at
which the steamers do not always touch. Farther on, on'the S.W.
bank, is Baveno (^BellevuCy with pleasant garden on the lake, R.,
L., & A. 5-7, D. 5 fr. ; *0randH6t, Baveno, a large new house below
the Villa Clara; *Beaurlvage, with garden; *H6t.-Pen8. Suisse,
pens. 6V2 ft-)) * ^i**l® ^o^J^ ^^ ^^^ inhab. , with Mr. Henfrey's
handsome Villa Clara (occupied by Queen Victoria for three weeks
in April, 1879 ; visitors admitted to the beautiful garden and the
church on showing their visiting-cards.)
The steamer now approaches the —
*Borromea]L Iilands, and touches (on some trips only) at the
westernmost, the Isola Superiore or dti Peseatoriy and then (always)
at the Isola Belkh, the southernmost, which, with the Isola MadrCj
belongs to the Borromeo family. — Farther N. is the Isola 8. Qio-
vannij near Pallanza, already mentioned (p. 418).
In the splendour-loving, but tasteless 17th cent., Count Vitaliano
Borromeo (d. 1690) erected a large chateau on *Iflola Bella , and
converted the barren rock into beautiful gardens, rising on ten
terraces 100' above the lake, and displaying all the wealth of Italian
vegetation : lemon-trees, cedars, magnolias, cypresses, orange-trees,
laurels , magnificent camellias and oleanders , etc. (evening light
best for the beautiful view). The grounds are disfigured with shell-
grottoes, fountains (dry), mosaics, and statues in the style of the
period. The uninteresting Chdteau, which is much too large for the
island, contains a large ColUcUon of Pictures of little value. The
N. wing is in ruins. The view through the arches of the long gal-
leries under the chateau is curious. A servant attends visitors in
the ch&teau (not before 9 a.m. ; fee ^/^-i fr. ; more for a party),
and the well-informed gardener shows the grounds for a similar fee.
Adjoining the chateau are the H6t, du Dauphin or DeLfi.no (R., L.,
& A. 3, D. 4, pens. 7 fr.), and the Biator, dd Vapore, Boat to
Isola Madre and back with two rowers 3 fr.
The *Iflola Kadre is on its S. side similar to the Isola Bella,
being laid out in seven terraces, with lemon and orange-trellises.
On the highest terrace is a dilapidated Palazzo, with a beautiful
view. On the N. side are delightful grounds, with luxuriant vege-
tation. Visitors admitted from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. (fee 1 fr.). — The
Isola del Peseatori or Snperiore is also worth visiting for the sake
of the picturesque views it commands. The island is entirely oc-
cupied by a fishing-village, a place for drying the nets, a small
avenue, and the churchyard being the only open spaces.
The scenery around the Borromeaa Islands rivals that of the Lake of
Como in grandeur, and perhaps surpasses it in richness. Monte Rosa is not
visible \ the snow-mountains to the K. W. are the glaciers and peaks of the
Simplon ; of the nearer hills the most conspicuous are the white granite-
rocks near Baveno. Travellers from the north cannot fail to be struck
with the loveliness of the banks, studded with innumerable dwellings,
27*
420 RouUl09. ARONA.
and clothed with luxuriant v^etation (chestnuts, mulberries, vines, figs,
olives), and of the deep -blue lake, enhanced by the snow -mountains
in the background. Jean Paul has contributed to the fame of the Bor-
romean Islands by making Isola Bella the scene of the first part of his
^ Titan". Rousseau at one time intended to make them the scene of his
'Nouvelle Hdloi'se", but considered them too artificial for his romance.
Opposite Isola Bella, on the W. bank lies —
Streia. -~ ^HStel deb Iles Boxrom&bs, Vz ^> from the landing-place,
comfortable, with fine garden, R., L., A A. from 4, B. IVzi D. 5, board
71/2 fr. ; "^HdTEL HiLAN, with a small garden on the lake, near the pier, R.,
L., A A. 4-5Vz, !>• 6, pens. &-7 fr. (R. extra); Alberoo Reals Bolonoabo,
on the lake; Italia, K. & L.. 2-S, pens. 6-7 fr. ; Alb. S. Qottabdo, R.
from IV2, pens. 5-6 fr.; these three second-clafs, but very fair. — Boat
(barca) with one rower 2 fr. for the first hour, and 50 c. for each additional
half-hour (comp. p. 414). — Caxbiaoe to Domo d*Ossola, one-horse, 15-20,
two-horse 30-35 fr. ; to Arona, one-horse 6 fr. ; over the Simplon to Brieg,
comp. p. 283.
The handsome Rosminian MorKutery^ halfway up the hill, is
now a school. The church contains the monument of Ant. Rosmini
(d. 1855), with an admirable statue by Vela. Beautiful cypresses
in the churchyard. Among the villas in the euTirons are the Duchess
of Genoa's Villa Bolongaro, by the church, the Villa Landrianiy
LomelUniy Amaliay Baisinif and Imperatori. Above the lake, 1/2 ^*
to the S., are the beautifully situated Villa Pallavicini, and V4 ^•
farther the Villa Vignolo, with fine gardens (visitors admitted).
Ascent of "^Mte. Motterone^ see p. 421. Walkers returning to Switzer-
land should send their luggage from Strega to Doma d''Ossola (poste-
restante), walk over the Mte. Kotterone to Crta^ and go by train to Ora-
vellonu (p. 290), whence they may take the diligence or a carriage to
Domo d''Ossola (p. 290). Swiss diligence and supplementary carriages tnence
over the Simplon to Brieg twice daily.
As the steamer pioeeeds we obtain a good view of the skilfully
constructed high-road, supported at places by walls of masonry.
The banks become flatter ; to the W. appears Monte Rosa. The next
place on the W. bank is Belgirate (*Gr, H6t BelgiraU; 700 inh.),
with the Tlllas ForUana, Prineipessa Matilda, etc. Then Lesa and
Meina (Alb. Zanetta) on the W., and Angera on the E. bank, with
a handsome chateau of Count Borromeo.
Arona (738'; pop. 3600; *Aibcrgo RtaU; *Alb. S, Gottardo,
R. & A. 2-2V2r pons. 6^7 fr., both on the quay ; AncorOy behind
the S. Gottardo ; Cafi della Stazione ; Cafi next the Alb. Reale ;
Cof€ du Lac, at the harbour), an old town on the W. bank of
the lake, about 3 M. from its S. end, extends up the slope of the
hill. In the principal church, 8. Maria, is the chapel of the Bor-
romeo family, to the right of the high-altar, containing an *Altar-
piece, the Holy Family, by Gaudentio Vinci (or Gawi» Ferrari?)
of 1511.
On a commanding height V4 hr. to the N., is a colossal Statue
of 8. Carlo, 70' high, resting on a pedestal 43' high, erected in
1697 in honour of the famous cardinal , Count Carlo Borromeo,
Archbishop of Milan, who was born here in 1538 (d. 1584, canonis-
«^d 1610).
MONTE MOTTERONE. 110, Eoute. 421
The head, hands, and feet of the statue are of bronze, the robe of
wrought copper. Notwithstanding its enormous dimensions, the statne is
not without artistic merit, though the ears are too large. The various
parts are held together by iron cramps attached to a pillar of masonry
m the interior. Ascent in the interior disagreeable. Room in the head
for three persons. For a ladder to reach the entrance 3 Vsfr* are demanded.
Relics of S. Carlo are preserved in the neighbouring Churchy
near which is a large Seminary for Priests.
The Railway fkom Aboka to Uilak (42 M., in 2V4-2V2hr8. ; 7 fr. 65,
5fr. 35, 3fr. 85 c.) runs round the S. end of the lake and crosses the Ticino^
the boundary between Piedmont and Lombardy (down to 1859 the frontier
of Austria and Italy), to Setto-Calende (p. 416) ; then Vergiate, 8omnM, and
(17 H.) 0alUrat6 (where the lines to Varese and Laveno diverge, pp. 434,416),
a town of 5200 inhaib. at the S.E. base of a chain of hills, and at the be-
ginning of the great fertile plain of Lombardy, where maize, mulberries,
and vines flourish luxuriantly. Stations Butto-Artizio, Legnanoy Parabiago^
Rhdy Muiocco. — 42 M. Uilan^ see p. 435.
110. Fram Stresa to Orta and Varallo.
Comp. Map, p. 414,
1^/2 Days. 1st Day: From Stresa over the Mte. Motterone to Orta,
7-8 hrs: — 2nd Day: From Orta to V(»rallo 4^/2 hrs. — From YanJlo we
may return by railway via Novara or Graoellona (p. 290) to the Lago Mag-
giore ; but good walkers will far prefer to cross one of the passes (p. 424)
to the Val Anzasca or to ascend the Val Sesia to Alagna and there begin
the magnificent expedition deMvifoed in R. 86. — Carriage and pair from
Stresa by Gravellona to Orta, with stay, 30 fr.
The Lago Maggiore is separated from the Lake of Orta by a
long hill, the Mtt, Margozzolo or Mergoztolo^ which may be crossed
by a pleasant route from Stresa to Orta in 5-6 hrs. : load to (6 M.)
Gignese (Alhergo Alpino, fine view, moderate), whence the Mte.
Motterone may be ascended in 2 hrs. ; thence with a guide (2-S fr.)
to Coiro in 2 hrs. ; deseent from Coiro by a path, easily found, to
Armeno in 3/^hr, ; road thence to (41/2 M.) Orta (see below). Farther
to the N., this hill culminates in the ^Monte Xotterone oxMoUarone
(4892')7 a magnificent point of view, easily ascended (from Stresa
or Baveno 372-4lirs. ; guide 4, donkey 5 fr.). The route from
Baveno leads by Romanico, Loita, and Campino, mostly through
wood to Someraro^ where it joins the route from Stresa. The latter
diverges to the left opposite Isola Bella, beyond a bridge over the
broad channel of a brook, and ascends through wood to the villages
of (3/4 hr.) Someraro and (25 min.) Levo, We emerge from the
wood 1/2 hr. farther on, and ascend over pastures (with the hotel
In sight in front of us) -put the Alpe del Giardino to a (1 hr.) church
without a tower, where we turn to the right. 20 min. Alpe del Mot-
taror^e (milk), 30 min. *Alb€rgo Mottarone^ kept by the brothers
Guglitlmina^ 10 min. below the summit (pens., incl. wine, 9 fr.).
The **ViEW from the top, the 'Rigi of Northern Italy', embraces the
Alps from the Col di Tenda and Monte Viso on the W., to the Orther and
Adamello on the E. (Panorama by Bossoli, in the hotel). The most conspi-
caou0 feature is the Mte. Rosa group; to the right of it appear the Gima di
Jazzi, Strablhom, Rimpfischhorn, Allalinhorn, Alphubel, Mischabel (Tasch-
422 BouUllO, ORTA. FromStresa
horn, Dom, Nadelhorn), Piaso BotUrello, Portgengrat, BieUchhont, Mte.
Leone, Jungfntu, Helsenhorn, Fiesclierhdmer; then more distant, to the
£. of the peakfl of Mte. Zeda, the mountains of the Rhine valley, Ber-
nina, Diagrasia, Mte. Legaoae, Mte. Generoeo, Mte. Origna. At onr feet
lie seven lakes, those of Orta, Mergono, Maggi(M«, Biandrone, Varese;
Monate, and Comabbio; farther to the right stretch the great plains of
Lombardy and Piedmont, with Milan and its lofty cathedral in the centre.
The silvery Ticino and Sesla meander through the plains, and by a singular
optical delusion seem to traverse a lofty table-land. The Motterone consists
of a number of bare peaks^ studded with a few chalets among tall trees;
its base is encircled with chestnut-trees, and the surrounding plain is also
well wooded.
On the W. Bide a path, rather steep at places (guide advisable),
descends direct to (2 hrs.) Omegna (see below). Travellers bound
for Orta soon reach on the S. side of the hill a broad bridle-path
{guide unnecessary) descending by Chieggino to (2^2 hrs.) Armeno
Alb. deir Unione) on the high-road, which they follow to the S.
From (12 min.) the point where the road forks, the left branch
leads to Mia$ino (see below), the right by Careegna, crossing the
railway to Gravellona (the station of Orta - Miasino lying on the
left), to (4 M.) —
Orta (1220'; *Hdtel Belvedere^ on tbe Sacro Monte, see below;
*H6tel 8. Oiulio, kept by Ronchetti, In the market-place on the
lake, R. & A. 4, B. IV2, D. ^^h^r.-, Leon d'Oro, Due Spade, un-
pretending. — Beer at the Cafi d'Orta, in the market), a little
town, with marble-paved streets and a Villa of the Marckese Natta
at the foot of the Sacro Monte (see below), picturesq^uely sltutad on
a headland extending into the *Lake of Orta. Opposite Orta lies
the rocky islet of i9. OUtlio (boat there and back li/2fr. ; also
steamboat-stat.). The Church, founded by St. Julius, who came
from Greece in 379 to convert the natives, and frequently restored,
contains several good reliefs, old frescos, a fine Romanesque pulpit,
and in the sacristy a Madonna by Gaudenzio Ferrari. On the hill
is a seminary for priests, with a garden affording charming views
of the lake. — On the lake (IV4 M. in breadth, 7^/2 M. in length),
now called Lago Cuaio, after its supposed ancient name, a steamer
plies three times daily : to the S. to Paseolo, laola S. OiuUo, and
Bueeione (with an ancient watch-tower dating from Emp. Frederick
Barbarossa); and in the opposite direction to Pella, Pettenasco,
RoncOj Oira and Omegna f^Posta), at the N. end of the lake (rail-
way to Oravellona, see p. 291).
Above Orta rises the *8aero Konte (ascent in V* hr. from the market-
place or through the garden of the Villa Natta : fee for opening the upper
door), a beautifully wooded hill, laid out as a park. In the 16th cent. 20
chapels were erected here in honour of St. Francis of Assisi, each contain-
ing a scene from his history in painted life-size figures of terracotta, with
a background ^al fresco\ Though of little artistic value, these groups are
on the whole spirited and effective. The best are in the i3th, 16th, and
20th chapels ; in the last is represented the canonisation of the saint, with
the assembly of cardinals. One of the ^Custodi del Monte^ will open the
chapels if required (Vs-i fr.), but a sufficiently good view is obtained
through the openings in the doors. Various points on the hill command
io Varallo. PELL A. 110. Soute, 423
charming fiurveys of the lake; to the W., above the lower hills, peeps the
snowy Monte Rosa. On the W. side of the plateau are the *H6tel Belvedere
and a small Cafi-Restaurant.
Picturesque excursions may be made from Orta by J/ta«mo, with its
handsome villas, to the (1 hr.) Madotma delta Bocciola, situated on the hill
above the station ; and to Torre di Buecione (an ancient watch*tower dating
from Emp. Frederick Barbarossa) at the 8. end of the lake (IV4 hr. ; boat
to Buecione I1/2 fr. ; also steamer), both points commanding good views.
By Pella (see below) to (IV4 hr.) Alxo^ with extensive granite- quarries
(branch-railway from Gtozzano, see below) and to (1 hr.) Madonna del Smso
GI2A9f)^ the pretty church of the hamlet of Boletto, on a lofty cliff, com-
manding a fine survey of the entire lake. — Porter to the top of the
Mottarone (5 hrs.) 6, donkey 10 fr. ; over the Mottarone to Baveno or
Stresa, 10 and 15 fr.
Fbom Obta to Novaka, 27Va M., railway in l^/* hrs. (5 fr. 5, 3 fr. 50,
2 fr. 55 c). The station of Orta - Miasino lies 1 M. to the E. of Orta,
halfway to Miasino (see above). The train at first skirts the lake, of
which it affords pleasing views. 5 M. Oozxano^ iVa M. from the S. end
of the lake (branch to Alzo, see above); 9 M. Borgomanero (Alb. al Ramo
Secco), 7 M. to the S.W. of Arona (p. 430); W^h M. Cressa - Fontaneio ;
18 M. Momo; 221/2 M. Caltignaga; Tl^fz HL. Novara. Thence to Laveno
(p. 416) rail in U/t hr., to Milan (p. 435) in IV4 hr. (see Baedeker's IT. Italy).
From Orta to Oravellona^ railway in 40 min., see p. 291.
Fbom Pella oyer the Colma. to Yaballo, 4^2 hrs., a beauti-
ful walk (donkey 6, to the Colma 3 fr.; guide, 6 fr., unnecessary).
On the W. bank of the lake, opposite Orta, peep the white houses
of Fella (^Alb. del Peace, unpretending), from amidst vines, chest-
nuts, and walnuts. (Boat from Orta 1^2 ^i*-; steamer, see above.)
The path to the Colma crosses the PeUino at the upper end of the
village, beside a paper-factory, and ascends steeply. At (12 min.)
the fork we take the level path to the left to (20 min.) a mill,
ahove which we cross a brook descending on the right. A paved
path now ascends steeply to (40 min.) Arola, which commands a
loTely view in the direction of the lake of Orta. We turn to the
left 5 min. beyond the village, descend a little, and then keep on
for V2 ^^- ^^ ^^^ same level, skirting the gorge of the PeUino,
which here forms a pretty waterfall. We next ascend through wood,
between crumbling blocks of granite, to the (^/^ hr.) wooded Col di
Colma (about 361 OQ. The height to the left commands a splendid
view, embracing Monte Rosa, the lakes of Orta and Yarese, and
the plain of Lombardy. In descending (to the right), we overlook
the fertile Val Sesia, with its numerous villages. The path leads
through groves of chestnuts and walnuts to (d/4hr.) Civicueo (several
Cantine), whence a fine new road (shortcut by the old path, to the
left), the first part of which affords a magnificent view of Mte. Rosa,
leads to (8/4 hr.l —
Varallo (1515'; pop. 3200 ; *Croee Biancaj good cuisine ; *Italia,
R. & A. SVgj D. 4 fr.; Posta; Parigi; Falcone Nero)y the capital of
the Vol Sesia. The stream, often dry in summer, is crossed by a
guspension bridge below the railway. The Piazza Yitt. Emanuele,
at the entrance to the town from the station, is embellished by
a monument to Yictor Emmanuel. Over the high-altar of the col-
424 Route UO. VAL SESIA.
legiate church is a Marriage of St. Catharine by Oaudenzio Ferrari
(1484-1549), a native of the neighhouring Val Duggia. The
churches of S. Maria delle Grazie (choir), S. Maria di Loreto, and
S. Marco contain frescos by the same master, those in the last be-
longing to his earlier period. His *Statue in marble, by Delia
Yedova, stands at the beginning of the ascent to the Sacro Monte.
The "^Saoro Konta (Santuario di Varallo; 1960% a great resort of pil-
grims and sight-seers, rising close to the town, is ascended in 20 min. by
a paved path shaded by beautiful trees, and commands a delightful view.
On the top of the hill ando n its slopes are a church and 46 Chapsls, or
oratories, containing scenes from the life of the Saviour in painted life-size
figures of terracotta, beginning with the Fall in the 1st chapel, and end-
ing with the Entombment of the Virgin in the 46th. The frescos on the walls
are by Pellegrino Tibaldi , QaudemiQ Ferrari, and others. This *Ifuova
OerusaletmM nel Sacro Monte di Varallo'' was founded in 1486 by Bernardino
Caloto, a Milanese nobleman, with the sanction of Pope Innocent VIII.; but
as a resort of pilgrims it did not come into vogue until after the visits of
Cardinal Borromeo (p. 420) in 1578 and 1S84, from which period most of the
chapels date. The hill now belongs to the town (Cafi-Jtestaur. at the top).
Varallo is a capital starting-point for excursions into the very at-
tractive and easily accessible valleys in the vicinity.
Fbom Vaballo bt Fobello to Pohtb Gbamde (and Ifacagnaga), 9 hrs.,
guide hardly necessary. A road ascends the pretty * Fal Mastallone, passing
the (3 M.) picturesque Ponte delta Gvla, to (iOVx M.) Fobello (*Po8ta;
Italia; *'Alb. del Club Alpino); thence bv Boeeo^ Plana, 8. Maria, and
Agatto to the (3 hrs.) Ool di BaraBoa (6748' ; refreshmts. at the chaletsj,
with a chapel. Steep descent, with pretty views of the Val Anzasca,
through the Vail Olloccia to Bannio and (3 hrs.) Ponte Grande (p. 317).
Fbom Vaballo theough the Val Sesia to Alagna (8 hrs.). Omnibus
daily at 1 p.m. in 6 hrs. The road ascends the fertile valley, on the left
bank of the Sesia, by Valmaggia and Vocca to (5 Jf .) Baknueeia, at the
intlux of the Sermenta.
[A road ascends the picturesque Val Sermenxa by (SVs ^O Boccioleto
pPens. della Fenice) and /errer a, to (2 hrs.) iZtmcMoo (two inns*, the upper
is the better), where the valley divides: in the branch to the right (£.)
lies (2 hrs.) Careo/oro (Monte Moro, plain), and in the Val Piccola to the
left (W.) is (2 hrs.) Rima. Fbom Carcofobo to Ponte Gbande over the
Ool d'Eigua (7064') and Col di Baranea (see above), 6-7 hrs., with guide,
interesting; to Pbstabbka over the Col deUaMorianai 6 hrs., with guide^
fatiguing; to Macugnaga over the Bocchetta di Carcoforo, 7 hrs., with
guide, also fatiguing (descent through the FaZ di Quarazza^ p. 322). — Fbom
Rima (see above) to Macuonaga over the Little Tnrlo, or Col del Piccolo
Altare, 6-7 hrs., fatiguing and unattractive; to Alagna over the CoUe di
Moud or the Col deUa Moanda, see p. 322.]
The road , following the left bank of the Sesia , next leads by Scopa
(Inn), Seopello, PUa, Piode, and Campertogno to (10 H.) KoUia (*Alb. Vai-
sesiana). Thence through the narrowing valley to (ls/4 hr.) Jiiva (3680';
"^Hot. delle Alpi), with an elaborately decorated church, beautifuUy
situated, where several peaks of Monte Rosa become visible to the If.,
and (s/4 hr.) Alagna (p. 322).
From Vaballo to Novaba, 34 M., railwav in 2 hrs. 8 min. (6 fr. 25,
4 fr. 40, 2 fr. 80 c). The line traverses the fertile Val Sesia. Stations:
Boccajpietra, Qtiarona, IsoleUa-Vamone. Beyond (8 M.) Borgoteaia^ a large
village on the Sesia, here resembling a lake, the line crosses a long via-
duct over the Strona^ to Orignasco, Prato Sesia, and (16 M.) Bomagnaao
(Po$la)y an industrial village in a fertile district in which maixe and vines
flourish. The mountains recede altogether. Stations: Ohemme, Siztanc,
Fara, Bn'ona, S. Bernardino, and Bivio Vianate (junction for Orta, p. 423j.
Then over the Po to Aovara (comp. p. 423); see Baedeier^s y. Italy.
425
111. From Luino on Lag^ Maggiore to Menaggio
on the Lake of Como. Lake of Lugano.
Com^. AfapSy pp. 414, 436.
Railway (Stsam-Tbamwat) from Luino to Pcnte Trua in 1 hr. (2 fr.
65, 1 fr. 45 c). Stbahkb from Ponte Treaa to Lugano in I3/4, to Porlezza
in 2*/4 hrs. (4 fr. 50, 2 fr. 70 c). Railway from Porlezza to Menaggio in
.1 hr. (2 fr. 66, 1 fr. 45 c). Through-tickets 9 fr. 80, 5 fr. 60 c; return,
Sunday, and circular tickets at a reduced rate (to be had on board any of
the steamers). — Return carriages to Lugano are generally to be hired in
Luino, at cheaper rates than the steamers or railway and are reconuuended
on account of the picturesque road.
Luino, see p. 417. The station of the narrow-gauge line is
near the landing-place. The train crosses the Piazza Garibaldi and
the St. Gotthard railway near the Luino station (p. 415), and at
Stat. Creva , a manufacturing place, reaches the Tresa , the river
descending from the Lake of Lugano , which falls into the Lago
Maggiore at Oermignaga (p. 417). After winding up the abrupt
right hank of the Tresa , the train orosses the river , which here
forms the boundary between Switzerland and Italy, passes through
two tunnels, and stops at Cremenaga, It then follows the left hank
to Stat. Ponte Tresa, on the Italian side of the river. The village
of that name , on the Swiss side , lies on a bay of the Lake of Lu-
gano which is so enclosed by mountains that it looks like a complete
little lake in itself.
The Luoano Boad crosses the Vallesina to (I72 M.) Maglicuo^ and,
skirting the lake at places, with the Mte S. Salvatore on the right, leads
to (I'/s M.) Agno (968'). Crossing the stream of that name, and passing
the little Lake of Muztano (p. 409) on the left, we gradually ascend the hill
at the E. base of which (2Vs M.) Lugano (p. 406) lies.
Steamboat Journey. The vessel steers through the Stretto or
strait of Lavena (with the abrupt Mte. Caslano, 1710', on the left),
and enters the W. arm of the Lake of Li^ano (890' ; Ital. Lago
Ceresio'), where the wooded hanks are somewhat monotonous. To
the N. we soon ohtain a fine view of the bay of Agno (see above),
with high mountains behind it (Mte. Tamaro, Mte. Bigorio, etc.).
The steamer turns to the S., passing Figino on the left (with Mte.
S. Salvatore and its chapel in the distance, p. 409), and touches
at Brusin^Piano on the right. Farther on we skirt the wooded
slopes of the Mte. Arbostora (2750') on the left, at the foot of which
runs a road to Lugano (p. 411). In a bay of the S. bank lies Porto
or Porto-Ceresio. (Diligence to Varese twice daily in I1/4 hr., see
p. 434.)
The steamer turns to the N., to HoreotO) a village with a pic-
taresque church, prettily situated on the S. angle of the Mte. Ar-
bostora. We follow the W. bank ; Bnuin^Arsizio lies on the right,
and the long indented crest of the Otneroso soon appears (p. 411).
The vessel touches at Melidt on the W. and at BUsone on the E.
bank, and passes with lowered funnel through the embankment
across the lake. (*View through the arch.) To the left rises Mte, 8.
426 Route 111. POULEZZA.
Salvatore (p. 409), with the pxomontoiy of 8, MarUno at its base
(p. 409) ; on the right is Mte. Caprino (p. 409).
Between Lugano (p. 408) and S. Mamette is the finest part of
the lake. Near Lugano the banks are beautifully studded with villas
and chapels, and planted with vines, flgs, olives, and walnuts. On
the N. bank is Castagnolay most picturesquely situated ; then Qsjl-
dria , at the foot of Mte, Brh (p. 410), perhaps the most beautiful,
village on the lake, with its gardens borne by lofty arcades and
its vine-terraces. Beyond this point the lake assumes a wilder cha-
racter. The next villages are (I J) Bellarma (frontier) ; Oria with the
ViUa Bianei ; Alhogasio ; and 8. Mamette (Stella d' Italia) ^ beauti-
fully situated at the mouth of the picturesque Val SoldOy with Ca-
stello high above it (p. 410). The S. bank is wooded and abrupt.
To the left Loggio, Cresogno, and Cima^ opposite which (S.) lies
Osteno (Alb, del Vapore).
The ^ 0rotto of Osteno (locally called the Orrtdo or Peseara, 'fiBher-
men's gorge') may easily be visited from Lugano with the aid of the
steamer bound for Porlezea, which will also take us back to Lugano.
Tickets for the grotto are sold on board the steamer at 75 c. each. The
grotto is 7 min. from the landing-place. We pass through the village ; out-
side the gate we descend to the right before the stone bridge, and cross
the brook. The mouth of the gorge, in which there are two small water-
falls, is near a projecting rock. Visitors embark in a small boat and enter
the grotto, the bottom of which is occupied by the brook. The narrow
ravine through which we thread our way is curiously hollowed out by the
water. Far above, the roof is formed by overhanging bushes, between which
glimpses of blue sky are obtained. The gorge is terminated by a water-
fall. — The Tufa Grottoes of Bescia may also be visited before the
steamer returns from Porlezza. Boat (with two rowers, there and back
2yt fr.) round the promontory to the £. of Osteno in !/« hr. to the hamlet
of Reseia ; thence by a narrow path to the grottoes in 6 min. (torches V* ^'^O.
The dome-shaped grottoes, encrusted wi^ calcareous sinter and stalac-
tites, are connected by a low passage (caution necessary). From the se-
cond is seen a pretty waterfall in a gorge. In the vicinity are tufa quar-
ries, containing interesting fossils.
A road leads from Osteno to the S.W. to (6 H..) Lanso d'Intelvi
(3117'-, *'E6t. Belvedere, pens. 8-10 fr. 5 Caf4 Centrales moderate, D. 3 fir.),
a pleasant spot for some stay, with a fine view of the Lake of Lugano and
the Alps with Mte. Bosa (English Church Service in summer; English phy-
sician). A road also leads to it from Maroggia (7 H.; see p. 411), and another
from Argegno on the Lake of Como (8^/2 M.; see p. 431). Near Lanzo C^
min.) are the baths of Paraviso. Bridle-path to Mte. Oeneroso (p. 411),
5V3 hrs.
The N. bank of the lake now becomes rocky and precipitous.
At the N. end of this bay lies Forleisa (Alb, del Logo), with the
Italian custom-house and a harbour. Boat to Lugano 10-12fr.
Fbom Poklezza to Menaggio. The station of the tramway
(comp. p. 426) is close to the landing-place. The train rans
through the broad valley of the Cuceione, by TavordOy 8, FietrOj and
Piano, and past the little Lago del PianOj and then ascends more
rapidly (4:100) by Bene-Grona to stat. Qrandola (1260'), the
highest point on the line, 610' above the Lake of Oomo. It nov
descends on the lofty right bank of the Vol Sanagra in numerous
cui^ves, the line being hewn in the rock in many places and sup-
•n
I
I
LAKE OF COMO. 112. Route. 427
ported by buttresses of masonry. Beyond a tunnel 110 yds. long
the line takes a long bend towards the S., affording a delightful
view of the Ijoke of Como, with its luxuriantly fertile banks,
sprinkled with towns, villages, and villas, and enclosed by high
mountains. To the right are the beautiful peninsula of Bellagio
and the bay of Lecco. After running towards theS. for about V2^m
the train turns back at a sharp angle and descends rapidly (6 : 100)
to MenaggiOj where the terminus is close to the steamboat-pier and
the Hotel Menaggio. (The village of Menaggio has a pier of its
own, see below.)
112. The Lake of Como.
steamboat four times daily from Colico to Como in 4 hrs. (5 times
from Bellagio to Como, and 8 times from Torriggia to Como); thrice be-
tween Colico and Lecco (3'/4'4Vs hrs.), and thrice between Como and Lecco
3^3 hrs.). Stations : Colico (pier), IfomcuOy Oravedona (pier), Dongo (pier),
Musso <i Cremiay DerviOy Rezzonico^ Aegtiaseria, Bellano (pier), Varenna
pier), Jfenaggio-Bridge (pier), Menaggio-Station (pier), Bellagio (pier), Car
lenalhia (pier), 8. Giovanni A Tremezzo (pier), Azzano^ Lenno^ Lezzeno
' CampOy Sola, Argegno (pier), Neuo^ Torriggia^ Pognana^ Palanzo^ Carate
)ier), UriOy TomOy MoUrasiOy Blerro^ CfemoWto, Como (pier). Embarka-
on and landing free (the tickets have a coupon which is given to the
oatman). Those who embark at intermediate stations must procure a
zket at the pier; otherwise they are liable to be charged for the whole
stance from Como or Colico. Tickets are issued on board for the Como
id Milan railway, and the Lugano and Luino line, and for Lago Maggiore.
be mails are carried by handsome saloon steamers, with good restaurants
I board.
Boata. First hour IV2 fr., for each additional hour 1 fr. per rower. From
tllagio to Cadenabbia and back, each rower 2V2 fr. ; Bellagio to Tre-
izzOf Bellagio to Menaggio, and Bellagio to Varenna also 2V2 fr* each
ver ; Bellagio to Villa Mem , Villa Carlotta , and back , each rower
r. — One rower generally suffices, unless time is limited. If a seconp
)ffers his services, he may be dismissed with : ^basta uno^ (one is enough).
3 boatmen reduce their fares when customers are not numerous. The
owing phrases may be uaeful: ^Quanto voUte per una eoraa d^un ora (di
ore) t Siamo due (trey quattro) persone. E troppo, vi dard un franco (due
ncfiiy., etc. — The boatmen generally expect a buonamano of V2-I fr. in
ition to tbe &re.
The •take of Como (700^), Ital. Lago di Como, or II Lario, the
*us Larius of the Romans, extolled by Virgil (Georg. ii. 159),
>y many considered the most beautiful lake in N. Italy. From
N. end to Como it is 30 M. in length; between Menaggio and
enna., its broadest part, it is nearly 2^2 M. in breadth; and its
test depth is 1930'. At Bellagio (p. 429) the lake divides into
arms, the bay of Como (W.) and that of Lecco (E.). The Adda
into the lake at the N. end and emerges from It again at Lecco.
l>ay of Como has no outlet.
Txxrxk&rovLB gay villas of the Milanese aristocracy, with luxuriant gardens
^jxteyards, are scattered along the banks of the lake, and above these
d QTOvea of chestnuts and wabiuts of brilliant green, contrasting strongly
tbe dtill-gray tint of the olive, which to the unaccustomed eye re-
es tbe willow. The mountains rise to a height of 7Q(Xf. The scenery
i la>i&e, viewed from the steamboat, somewhat resembles that of a
428 SouU112.
VARENNA.
Lake of
vast river, the banks on. both sides being distinguishable. The dwellers
on the banks of the lake are chiefly engaged in the production and manu-
facture of silk. — The Locum Laritu derives a classic interest from its
connection with the two Plinies, the elder of whom made scientific researches
in this district. — The lake is well stocked with fish, such as the palatable
little ^Af^onC^ and trout of 20 lbs. weight are occasionally captured.
I
Eastern Bakx.
ColteOy Bee p. 362.
OgliaseOj DoriOj and Corenno ;
the last picturesquely situated,
with a mined castle.
Dervio lies at the mouth of the
Varronej and at the foot of Monte
Legnone and Its spur Legnoncino
(56800.
Monte Legnone (8566'), the highest
mountain of Lombardy, may be as-
cended hence in 7 hrs. (with guide \
fatiguing but interesting). In the
afternoon we mount to (2 hrs.) Sue-
glio, on the slope of Mte. Legnoncino,
where tolerable quarters for the night
are found; thence by Introzzo and
Aveno to the (3 hrs.) Cluh Hut at the
Porta dei Merli^ and the (1 hr.) sum-
mit, with magnificent view. The
ascent on the N. side, from Delebio
(p. 399), is easier. A bridle-path
leads through the Val delta Lesina
to the (4 hrs.) Alp Cappello^ and
thence across the Bocc^etta di Leg-
none in 3 hrs. to the summit.
Bellino (Roma ; BeUano) with
Ironworks and a monument to the
poet Tom, QroMi (d. 1853), lies at
the mouth of the Indnstrions Val
Sasaina, through which a road
leads by Introbbio to (20 M.)
Lecco. A little above its Influx
Into the lake the Piovema forms
a waterfall 200' high (Orrido
di BeUano J ^2 ^r.).
OUtana Is the landing-place
for the hydropathic establishment
of BegoledOj heautifully situated
500' above the lake.
Yarenna (*AJJbergo Reale ; H6-
tel Mareioni), with beautiful gar-
dens, Is charmingly situated on
a promontory at the mouth of
the Val Esino, A little to the
N. are five imposing galleries
Wbstbek Baits: .
Domaso, charmingly situated,
with several fine villas, especi-
ally Villa Venini and ViUa Miani.
Gravedona (Alb. Oravedona;
Alb. del Lauro), with 1600 in-
hah. , is picturesquely situated
at the entrance of a ravine. At
the upper end of the village rises
the handsome Pala%%o del Pen
with its four towers, erected by
Cardinal Tolomeo Gallio. Adjoin-
ing the old church of 8. Vineenso
is the Baptiatertum 8. Maria del
Tiglio of the 12th cent., contain-
ing two Christian inscriptions of
the 5th century.
Bongo (Alb. Dongojj a laige
village in a sheltered situation,
with a Dominican monastery, lies
at the mouth of the valley of the
same name. On the height
above it , to the N.W. , is Gar-
zenOy whence a hrldle-path leads
over the Paaao di 8, Jorio (6450')
to (9 hrs.) Bellinzona.
On a precipitous rock above
Mu880 are the three rained castles
of Rocea di Aftwso, where the
condottiere Giao. Medici, resided
in 1525-31 and held sway over
the whole lake.
Pianello and Cremia , with the
handsome church of S. Michele
(altar-piece, *St. Michael, by
Paolo Veronese).
Rezzonieo, with the ViUa Litta ;
on the castle-hill a restored fort-
ress of the 13th centnry. Then S.
Abbondio. A dangerous footpath
crosses the wild precipice of II
80880 Raneio (^the orange rock'),
Como.
BELLAGIO.
119. Route. 429
Eaatbbn Bakk.
hewn in the rock foi the passage
of the road (p. 432). The marble
from the neighbouring quames is
cut and polished in the town. Ad-
mirable new from the rnin of
Torre di Vexio , near the hamlet
of VeziOj high above the town
(72 hr.)-
About V2M. to the S. of the
townthe yfMieFlumeLatte f^milk-
Jtream*) falls in several leaps from
I height of 1000' (copious be-
ween March and May only ; day
n summer).
The 'Monte Grigna (7907'5 8 hrs.)
I a very fine point. From Varenna
bridle-path leads on the right bank
f the JEsino by Perledo to SVa hrs.)
'sino C^Alb. Monte Godeno, moder-
e), prettily situated. Thence (guide
isirable ; 9 fr.) to the Alp Cainallo
/2, Alp Prada IVa* Club Hut of the
A. C. iCapanna di Moncodinef
51') Va hr.. and to the top in 2
s. more (the last part rather
i^ing). Superb view of the whole
pine chain from the Hte. Yiso
the Ortler (the Hte. Rosa group
rticurlarly fine), and of the plains
Xiombardy to the distant Apen-
les. — The neighbouring Mon-
ine^ a little lower, and ascend-
in 1 hr. less (guide 7 fr.), aiTords
irly the same view
Wbstebn Bank.
traversed by the Russians under
Bellegarde in 1799, when many
lives were lost.
Henaggio (♦Gr, H6t, Victoria
finely situated , R. , L. , & A.
41/2 fr.; Hdtel Menaggio, at the
station, both with gardens on the
lake? * Corona J moderate) has
two steamboat-piers, one for the
place itself near the Victoria
H6tel, the other, near the Hotel
Menaggio, for the railway to
PorUzza (p. 427). A little to
the S., on the lake, is the palatial
Villa Mylius. — To the N. of
Menaggio, near the church of
Loveno (•Inn), is the (IV4 M.)
Villa Vigoni, with a superb
view of Bellagio, Menaggio , and
the three arms of the lake. A
summer-house contains two ad-
mirable reliefs by I'horvaldsen
(Nemesis) and Marchesi. The
neighbouring Villa Azeglio con-
tains paintings by the late owner
Marchese Massimo d'Azeglio (d.
1866), and the Villa Oaroviglio
contains archsBological collec-
tions.
The lake is divided here by the Punta di Bellagio into two arms,
5 Bay of Como to the S.W., and the Bat op Lbcco to the S.E.
Bay of Ck^mo.
KA.STBBN Bank.
(ellagla — *6bahdk Bbbtagnb,
xnD Hot. BblziAGio, two large
-class liotelsj '^Gbnazzini. These
3 beautifully situated on the lake :
.., & A. from 4V2, B. lVa-lV4, D. 5,
ibus 1, pens, according to bar-
10-12 fr. (at Genazzini's 7-11 fr.).
Vii:<i:«A Sbbbblloni (p. 430) a
adance of the Grande Bretagne
3 cbarges ; omnibus on the quay;
\orae c»rr. 4 fr.). — Plainer:
££, J>K Fjuobbnob, B. ft A. 2V8,
T'/af"*-* *^*NS. SuissB and Alb.
'AF»ojeK on the lake. — Beer at
af6 4Me9 strangers, on the quay.
Wbstbbn Bank.
Cadenabbia. — ^Bellbvub, next
the Villa Garlotta, with shady grounds
on the lake; ^'Bbi.lb Ilb; '^Bbitan-
NiA, formerly Beaui4jour^ pens, from
7fr. ; Pens. & Best. Cadenabbia, 6-
7fr.; Cafi Lavezzari.
Cadenabbia lies about halfway
between Como and Oolico. A little
to the S.W., in a garden sloping
down to the lake, stands the
famous *VilIa Carlotta (or Som-
marivoy after the count to whom
it once belonged). It was pur-
430 RouU 112.
TREMEZZO.
Lake of
Eastbbn Baitx.
— JSoato, 866 p. 427. — Objects in
oliv6-wood at OilardonVSj between
the Gr. Bretagne and Genazzinrs.
BeUagio (70S'', pop. 3000), sit-
uated at the W. base of the pro-
montory separating the two arms
of the lake, is perhaps the most
delightfal spot in the lake-district
of N. Italy. To the S. of the vil-
lage is the (V2 M.) Yilla Meizi,
erected for Count Melzi d'EriUy
vice-president of the Italian Re-
public in 1802 under Buonaparte,
and afterwards Duke of Lodi. It
now belongs to his grandson, the
Duca Melzi, and is not shown to
visitors.
The ''Gardbn (open on Thurs. and
Sand., ticket 1 tr.\ entrance at the
side by the chapel) is stocked with
Sjplendid magnolias, cedars, Chinese
pines, gigantic aloes, etc. — The
Chapel contains monuments of the
Melzi family. — In uaother part of
the garden, Dante and Beatrice, by
Comolli; colossal busts of Madame
Letitia, mother of Napoleon I. , and
the Empress Josephine, by Caruna,
On the height above Bellagio
stands the *VilIa Serbelloxii (now
a Hotel and Pension, see p. 429 ;
also Caf6 - Restaurant'). The
*View from the park, which ex-
tends to the end of the wooded
promontory, embraces the lake
in both directions, as well as the
Lake of Lecco (p. 432), and is
perhaps the finest on the whole
lake (each pers. 1 fr.). The various
points of view are connected by
walks, some of which lead through
artificial grottos. Beautiful gar-
den and a smaU palm-grove near
the hotel. — To the S. , in the
direction of the Lake of Lecco,
IV4 M. from Bellagio, is the
*Yilla Oiulia, the property of
Count Blome, with beautiful
gardens (fee Va fr-)*
Wbstbsn Bakk.
chased by the Princess Albert of
Prussia in 1843, and named
after her daughter Charlotte (d.
1855), and now belongs to the
Dukeof Saxe-Meiningen. Yisitors
ring at the entrance to the garden
and ascend the steps (adm. from
8 a.m. to 5 p.m.; 1 fr.).
The Mabbuk Salook has a frieze
adorned with celebrated **Belief« by
Thorvaldsen , representing the Tri-
umph of Alexander (for which Count
Sommariva paid a sum equal to
14,286^. sterling); it also contains sev-
eral sculptures: *Cupid and Psyche,
Magdalene, Palamedes, and Venus, all
hyCanova; Mars and Venus, hjAequUti;
Cupid offering water to doves, by
BienainUj etc. The Billiard Rook
contains casts, and a chimney-piece
with sculptured frieze, representing
a Bacchanalian procession, said to
be one of Thorvaldsen's early works.
In the Gabdbv Saloon are several
modern pictures: Romeo and Juliet
by. ffayez; Atala by Lordon; also a
marble relief of Napoleon, as consul,
by Latzarini.
The **Gabdxn, extending S. to
Tremezzo, and N. to the Hdtel Bel-
levue, displays the most luxuriant
vegetation. (Near the S. side of tbe
villa is a magnolia 1 1/2 ft- in diameter.)
Striking view of Bellagio from under
the trees on the S. side of the garden.
The mortuary chapel of the Som-
mariva family, at the end of the
garden wall, contains numerous
works in marble.
Halfway up the Sasso 8. Mar-
tinOy a rock behind Cadenabbia,
is the little church of Madonna
di 8, MarUno, with a beautiful
view (I1/2 hr.; rough path).
The Monte Ootaiga • or Croeitme^
a higher hill to the W., commands
a striking view of the Mte. Rosa
chain, the Bernese Alps, and Mont
Blanc, with the lakes at our feet.
(Fatiguing, 6-7 hrs. •, guide 6fr.; to
avoid heat, start at 2 or 3 a.m.)
Tremeuo *AU). Baz%oniJ is
almost a continuation of Caden-
abbia. Between them is the Villa
CarlotU. This district, the Tre-
Como.
TORNO.
172. Route, 431
Eastbbk Bank.
To "Ckenna (p. 434) a delightfal
excursion (carr. wifh one horse 8 fr. \
there and back in 3 lLrs.)i with
which a visit to the Villa Oiulia is
easily combined. — Monte 8. Primo
(41/8 hrs.) see p. 434.
The VmL Baltaretti, fonnerly
Poldi (the family name of the
j^onzagas) contains the mausole-
im of the last Gonzaga, a ronnd
iomanesque to"wer (fine view).
S. Oiovanni and Villa Trotti.
VilUi Besana.
Near Lezzeno is one of the
3epest parts of the lake.
JVesso, at the mouth of the Val
Sessa and at the foot of the Piano
Tivano (3803'); near the
er, in a narrow gorge, is a high
;erfall, often dry in summer.
?areno and Quarsano; then
nana and Riva di Palanzo.
'lie Villa Hinianay In the bay of
ina, at the entrance of a narrow
e , erected in 1570 by Count
fifssola, is now the property
archesa Trotti. Tt derives its
e from a spring near it which
changes its level, a peculi-
observed by both the Plinies.
quotations are inscribed on
^alls of the court.
the S. of Tomo (Bella
icbj "both banks are dotted
villas.
Wbbtbrn Bank.
mezzina^ is justly called the gar-
den of Lombardy.
Interesting excursion (3-4 hrs. there
and back) by Ltnno (Ristor. Bren-
tani) to ^S. Karia del Soooorao, a
*Mt. Calvary" with a superb view
(refreshm. at the sacristan'^s) ; back
by Mezzegra.
At the end of the long pro-
montory of Lavedo is the hand-
some ViUa BaWianellOj with its
colonnade, the property of Count
Arcomati. In the bay lie Axzano and
Lenno. To the S. of the promon-
tory is Campo , charmingly situ-
ated, and beyond it 8ala; be-
tween these lies the islet of 8.
Oiovanniy or Comacina, with its
little church. Then Colonno.
Argegno (Alb. ^ Ristor. Telo;
Alb, Barchettajy at the mouth of
the fertile VaW Intelvi, (Road
by Caatiglione to Lanso, 872 ^m
p. 426.)
Brienno, embosomed in laurels.
Torrigia (Ristor, Casarieo);
on the promontory the ViUa Elisa,
To the S. on the lake, rises a
lofty Pyramidj inscribed ^Joseph
Frank\ with a medallion. Frank,
a professor at Pavia (d. 1851),
left money for this monument.
Oermanellofind.LagliOj with the
Villas Antongina and Colobiano
(tine gardens).
Carate (Ristor. Lario). Then
VriOy wlh numerous villas.
Moltrasio (Ristor. Caramazza),
in a beautiful situation, with the
factory-like Palazzo Pas.^alacquay
rising above its terraced garden,
and the Villa Paasalacqua (now
Villa Cavallini).
432 Route 119,
LECCO.
Villa Tavemay with beautiful
g&rdens ; ViUa PoBtOj the property
of the daughter of the celebrated
singer (d. 1865); ViUa Taglioni,
once the property of the famous
danseuse, now of the Russian
Prince Trubetzkoy.
BleviOj with numerous ▼illas
(Mylku^ Rieordi) ; then , beyond
the promontory (with the ViUa
Comaggia')^ Borgo 8, Agostino,
the N.B. suburb of Como.
ViUa PiMtOf on a promontory ex-
tending far into the lake. High
above it is the church of Rovenna.
Cemobbio (^Gr.-SoUl Villa
£Esie ^ Rtine d'Angleterre, with
fine park , pens. 9-10 fr. ; H6t.
Reine Olga; Alb. dd Centro,
pens. 51/2-71/2 fr.; Alb. Cer-
nobbi6)f with the villas Be-
liruaghi, Baroggi, eto. Then
ViUa Cvma, with fine grounds,
and the ViUa Taiyefndla^ below
the mouth of the Breggia.
Villa Raimondi , the largest on
the lake, is at Borgo VieOy the
N.W. suburb of Como.
Como J see p. 433. Omnibus
' to the station 30 0. ; see p. 433.
Bay of Lecco.
Fbom Como to Lbcco, by Bellagio, steamer twice daily. Fbom Colioo
TO Lbcco twice daily, see p. 426.
The 8.E. arm of the Lake of Gomo cannot vie in beauty with the
S.W. bay ; but the steamboat-trip is a very pleasant one. Lecco is charm-
ingly situated. The once inaccessible B. bimk has been traversed since
1832 by a high-road, supported at places by embankments, and passing
through a number of tunnels or galleries. Three of the latter, near Oleic,
are together 1060 yds. long.
The steamer rounds the Punta diBeUagio (p. 429); on the height
above are the grounds of the VUla SerbeUoniy and farther on the
ViUa Oiulia. Then Q.) Liema, at the foot of the steep Chma Pelaggia^
with a fine retrospect to the N. ; (r.) Limonto, Vaasenay OnnOy op-
posite the rocky Mte. Origna (p. 429). Farther on Q.) Tonzanieo
and Mandello (Corona), at the foot of the Mte* Campione, then Ab-
badiay on a promontory stretching far into the lake, at the mouth
of the Val Oerona. Then on the W. bank we see a row of cement-
kilns , with large stores of fuel , at the foot of the Comi di Canzo
(4510'). Opposite Lecco lies (r.) Pari , separated from Malgrate
by the promontory of 8. Dionigio. Malgrate lies at the entrance
of the Val Madrera , through which a road leads to Como via Erba
(p. 433). The lake gradually contracts to the river Adda, flowing
out of it , which is crossed by the Ponte Orandey a stone bridge of
ten arches, built in 1335.
Lecoo IHoUI Due Torri, well spoken of; Croce di Malta; Italia;
Corona ; all in the Italian style), a busy town with silk and cotton
factories and iron-works (7500 inhab.), is admirably described in
Manzoni's *I Promessi Sposi'. Pleasant walks to the hill of CaaUUo
and the pilgrimage-church on Mte. Baro (view of the Brianza).
\«
COMO. 112, Route, 433
A little below Lecco the Adda again expands into the Lago di Oar-
late^ and farther down, into the small Lago di Olginate. A navigable ca-
nal connects Trezzo with Milan.
FbokLbcco to Milan, 3IV2 M., railway in2-2V2hrs.: stations Calolzio^
Olgiate-Molgora^ Cemuseo-iieraU., Usmatey Arcore, and (23V2M.) Monza^ the
junction of the Gomo and Milan line (p. 435).
FsoM Lscco TO Bbbgamo, 20V2 M., railway in IV4 hr.: stations CalolziOy
CisanOy Pontida, MapellOy Ponte 8. PieirOj and Bergamo^ a station on the
Verona-Milan line (comp. Baedeker'' z Northern Italy). Milan^ see p. 435.
CoxnO. — Hotel Volta, on the quay, R., L., & A. 5, B. IV2, D 5 fr. i
Itaua , HoT.-PxiTS. Suisse, on the lalce, both indifferent; Albbrgo
DBL Cappello, next door to the Volta, good Italian cuisine. — * Trattoria
Frasconiy in a recess of the piazza on the quay, at the end of a street at
right angles to the harbour. — Bat?it in the lake, near the Oiardino PubbUco
(to the left, beyond the pier). — Books, photographs, etc. at Meyer d: Zeller'Sy
in the Hotel Volta.
Como (705'; pop. 11,000, or incl. subuibs 25,000), the birth-
place of the two Plinies and of Volta, the physicist (whose Statue
)y P, Maichesi is on the W. side of the town near the harbour),
ies at the S. end of the S.W. arm of the Lake of Gomo, amidst
m amphitheatre of mountains. The ^Cathedral, begun in the
iOmbard Gothic style in 1396, and altered in the Renaissance style
•y Tommaso Rodari in 1513-21, built entirely of marble, is one
f the finest in N. Italy. Good modern stained-glass windows at
16 entrance. Adjoining the cathedral is the Town Hall (Broletto),
)mpleted in 1215, the walls of which are curiously built of stones
r different colours. The Porta del Torre, a massive flve-storied
ructure, is also noteworthy. Large silk-manufactories. — Outside
le town, on the promenade, is the church del Crocefisso, of the
^th cent., richly decorated with marble and gold, and ^2 ^'
lyond it, on the slope to the left, is the handsome Boiilica 8.
bbondio<f of the 11th cent.
E7xci7B8io!78. Ov THE E. Bank a beautiful new road leads along the
il-side, liigh above the lake, affording a variety of charming views, to
M.) Tomo (p. 431). — High above Como, to the N.E., lies the village
Brunate (2W&), the home of itinerant barometer- vendors , eigoying a
kutiful view towards the W., as far as Mte. Rosa. It is reached in
; lir. by a zigzag road to the iT. of the suburb of Borgo S. Agostino.
Fkoic Como to Ebba and Bellagio (about 26 M.), a very pleasant drive
ifaJlEy especially for those who have not left the steamboat on their
te to Como. We follow the Lecco road from the Porta Milanese, and
dually ascend the hills to the E. The lake is hidden by the finely
3ded Monte 3, Maurizio; to the S. we overlook the country in the di-
lon of If ilan \ on the 6. £. Hes the Bmma, an undulating and very
lie tract, 12 M. long, 6 M. wide, lying between the Lambro and the
[a, and stretching K.E. to Lecco. This is the 'Garden of Lombardy",
a favourite resort of the Milanese, who have numerous villas here.
ciiurcli of the village of Camnago^ to the N. of the road, contains
;a''s tomb (see above). Farther on, to the S. of the road, near a small
i, is tbe sharp ridge of Montorfano. Kear Cassano we observe a curious
ing tower. Beyond ^2&««to the view embraces the valley of Erba CPita»
•baj and the lakes of AlseriOy Pusianoy and Annone, above which on the £.
tlie Comi di Canzo (4512') and the indented Resegone di Lecco (6160').
Keax* (9 M.) Erba (1017'; Inn)^ a small town in a very fertile district,
leveral villas, the finest being Villa Amalia, on the N.W. side, with a
Bik.Ei>BKEB, Switzerland. 12th Edition. 28
434 Route 113. VARESE.
splendid view of the Brianea. Kear /n«tiio, with its lofty Lombard -tower,
V4 hr. 8.E. of Erba, stood the Lieiniforum of the Bomans, which Pliny
mentions with Bergamo and Como. — Railway from Erba to Afiiai^ by
S. Pietro (see below), in IVa h'.
Beyond Erba we cross the Lambro^ which is here artificially con-
ducted into the Laffo di Ptuiano^ a little to the S.E. Just beyond it the
Bellagio road diverges to the left from the Lecco road, and passes through
Lotiffoney on the W. bank of the narrow Lago del Segrino.
The next place is (4 H.) Oaaao (*Croce di MalUiy the first house on
the left; a pleasant liqueur, called VetpeirOy is made at Canzo), almost
contiguous to AuOy 1 Jf . beyond. At the entrance to Asso is a large silk-
factory (Casa Versa).
The road now gradually ascends the pretty Vau.'* Assxna, the valley
of the LambrOy with wooded slopes. It passes through seToral Tillages,
(2 H.) Lasnigoy (2 M.) Bami^ and MagregliOy whore it becomes steeper.
First view of both arms of the Lake of Como from the top of the hill near
the (1 H.) Chapel.
A charming ^Survey of the whole W. arm to Lecco, and beyond it, is
obtained beyond the first church of (1 H.) OiveBna, with its graceful
tower. The road now runs for 2 M. on the top of the wooded hill which
extends into the lake as far as Bellagio. Beyond the chapel we obtain strik-
ing views of the Bay of Como, the Tremezzina with the Villa Carlotta and
Cadenabbia (p. 429) , the E. arm (Lake of Lecco), a large portion of the
road on the £. shore resting on masonry and embankments, the entire lake
from the promontory of Bellagio to Domaso (p. 428), the promontory itself,
and far below us the hill with the Serbelloni park (p. 490).
The road winds downwards for nearly 3 M. , passing the ViUa OtMUa
(p. 430) and the cemetery of Bellagio. From Civenna to the hotels at Bel-
lagio on the lake (p. 429) about 6 H.
An interesting but rather fatiguing circuit (path rery stony at places)
may be made by ascending the Konte B. Primo (5686'; superb view ; 4^ hrs.;
with guide) from Canzo, and descending to 0 hrs.) Bellagio.
From Como to Lavkno via Vabjbsk, Si^js M. , railway in 2>j4 hrs. At
(13j4 II.) CainerlatOy the junction of the Milan line (see below), our line
turns to the right and traverses a fertile district with numerous villas.
41/2 H. Qraidate; 5 M. Civello; 6 M. Lurate-Caicioio. 7i|s M. OlgiaU U
the highest point on the line , 787' above the Lake of Como. — iQ^'fl M .
Solhiate. At (14 M.) Malniie the line between Milan and Varese intersects
our line. We then cross the Olona to (17iJ2 M.) Varese (1906'-, *9r. Hotel
Vareie; Ewropa; AngelOy etc.), a thriving town (pop. with environs 13,502)
with numerous villas , near the lake of that name , charmingly situated.
Splendid view from the pilgrimage-church of Madonna d4l Monte (2^/s hrs.
N.W.). Railway in 2 hrs. to Milan ^ see Baedeker 4 N. Italjf. — Beyond
Vares^ the line passes Ca>beaOy BarauOy Oavirate, CocqtiOy Qemonio^ and
CittigKo^ and traverses the Val Cuvio^ watered by the BoetiOy at the 8.
base of the Saseo di Fetro (p. 417) to (14 M.) Laveno (p. 417). By means
of this railway a visit to the Borromean Inlands (p. 419) and back may be
accomplished in 1 day from Lugano.
113. From Como to Milan.
29V3 M. Railway by Monza (St. Gtotthard line) in IV4-IV4 1^- *, 5 fr. 50,
3 fr. 85, 2 fr. 75 c. (another line by Camaago and 8, Pietro^ 27 M., in l^jshr.).
TsAMWAT from Como to Milan (station at Como near the steamboat pier)
by Lom%ttOy Saronno^ Bollate, A'ova'.e, and Boviea (29 M., in 2-2Vs hrs,), —
OmtUbu* between the station at Como and the quay 30 c. (included in the
charge for through-tickets).
ComOf see p. 433. — 3 M. Camerlata; on a hill above it rises*
the lofty old tower of the CaaUllo BaradellOy wheie Frederick Bar-
barossa occasionally resided. 5V2 M. Cucciagipi S^/2 M. Contii-
SoUU. MILAN. lis. RouU, 485
Ashago; 9^/2 M. Carimatei 12 M. Camhago, The hilly upland to the
left is the feitile Bridnzaj with its numerous villas (p. 433) ; the
long, Indented mountain in the background Mte. Resegone (p. 433).
151/2 M. Seregno; 171/2 M. Deaio. Several tunnels.
21 M. Honxa (pop. 15,500; Albergo del Castello at the station ;
Falcone), an old town. The Cathedral^ founded in 595 by Queen
Theodolinde, and rebuilt in the 14th cent., contains the '7ron
Crown* of the Lombard kings and a rich treasury (5 fr.). The Bro-
letto, or town-hall, of the 13th cent., is said to have formed part of
the palace of Emp. Frederick I. The king's Summer Palace near
Monza has a line large park. — 26 M. Sesto S, Oiovanni,
30 M. Milan. — The Statioi^ (PI. F, G, 1) liea between the Porta
Jfuova and the Porta Venezia. Cab into the town (by day or night) IV4 fr.;
each trunk 25 c.; hotel-omnibus l-lVzfr. — Tramway from the station to
the town 10 c. — Porter for lu^age under l(X)lbs. 50 c.
Hotels. ^HdTBL DB LA ViLLE (PI. a; F, 5), Corso Vittorio Bmanuele;
'Hotel Cavocr (PI. b ? F, 3), Piazza Cavour, near the station \ *Gbani> HdT.
fiLAN (PI. c\ F, 3, 4), Via Al. Manzoni 29-, *H^t. Continental (PI. e ; E, 4),
i^ia Al. Manzoni ; all these of the first class : B., L., & A. from 5, D. 5,
i. lV2<i Omnibus IVsf'* — Less expensive : ^Gbandb Bbetaonb & Bbich-
ann (PI. d; D, B, 6), Via Torino; *Bebbochino (PI. e; E, 5), Via 8.
[argherita; *BimoPA (PI. f; F, 6), Corso Vitt. Emanuele 9; *Manih (PI.
; E, 1^, Via Manin, near the Giardini Pubblici-, «Boma (PL g: F, 6),
orso Vitt. Emanuele 7: *Pozzo (PI. 1; F, 6), Via Torino, D. 41/2 fr.;
BANciA (PI. m ^ F, 5)t Corso Vitt. Eman. 19, well spoken of; ^M£tro-
3LB, in the Piazza del Duomo; ^Biscione & Bbllbvue, in the Piazza
(jntana, next the Piazza dell Duoma: *Centbal (PI. h; £, 6), Via del
35ce} *Bella Venezia (PI. i; E, F, 5), Piazza S. Fedele; *Ancoba (PI.
, F, 5), Via Agnello; *Lion Sl Tbois Suisses (PI. o; G, 4, 5), Corso
tt. Emanuele and Via Durini; all good second-class houses. Pension
rissE, commercial, etc.
KemtanrtaitB (TreUtorie). *Cwa, with garden, near the Scala; *Bifyi
d GnoccM^ in the GaUeria Vitt. Emanuele; Bona, Via 8. Giuseppe; liola
tta, near the triumphal arch (p. 438). — Cafes. '^Biffi^ *Onocehi, and Cova,
i above; *AntUey Via Aless. Manzoni; Martini, Piazza della Scala; Delle
onn€y Corso Venezia 1; several in the Giardini Pubblici (p. 438). —
er (^birra*) at the caf^s (30 c. per 'tazza**). Also at the Birreria Nazionale,
>osite the cathedral; ^fa&tl.'nt. Gall. Vitt. Emanuele; *Trenk, Galleria
Criatoforis.
BatlM. Bayno di Diana (PI. H, 2), outside the Porta Veneda; Bagno
lionjtle (PI. D, 8), outside the Porta Ticinese; Bajno di CaHelfida.'do
D, 1), near the Porta Nuova, etc.
CAh» (^Broughamf) 1 fr. per drive, by day or night ; from the station
lie to^wrx IV4 fr. ; per Vs ^r. 1, per hr. iVz fr. ; each trunk 25 c.
Traxxi'way every 0 min. (10 c.) from the Piazza del Duomo to most of
city gates and to the Cimitero. — Steam Tramway to Monza (see above)
[ hr. Cfi^^^c.); also to Saronno, Gittssano, Vaprio, etc.
ipost Office (PI. £, 6), near the cathedral, Via Bastrelli 20, behind the
zzo Reale, open from 8 a.m. to 9 p.m. — Telegraph Ottoe (PI. E, 5),
za dei Mercanti 19, on the K.W. side of the Piazza del Duomo.
niest-tres. Teatro della Scala (PI. E, 4), the largest in Italy next to S.
> sbt IN'aples ; Alia Canoibhiana (PI. F, 6) ; both open during the Carnival
Teatro Manzoni (PI. £, 5), IHazza della Scala, comedies. Teatro dal
\e CP1*_ I^ ^^ operas and ballet.
Olmveh Benriee, Vicolo San Giovanni della Conca 12.
kJi. (more fully described in Baedeker's N. Itcdy), wMcb was
lit after its total destruction in 1162 by the Emp. Frederiefc
28* •
436 RouUlia. MILAN. Cathedral.
Barbarossa, is the capital of Lombardy, and one of the wealthiest
manufacturing cities in Italy, silk being the staple commodity. The
city is upwards of 7 M. in circumference^ and has a population of
295,000, exdnsiTe of the garrison, or 321,800 including the suburbs.
The business-centre and also most attractiye part of Milan is
the Piazza dbl Duomo (PI. £, 5) , formerly hemmed in by mean
streets, but recently mudi extended, and now flanked with palatial
edifices, designed by Mengoni, which, with the majestic 'Duomo',
present a yery handsome appearance.
The **Cathedral (PL £, F, 5), one of the largest churches in Eu-
rope, built entirely of white nurble. and decorated with 98 Gothic
turrets and 2000 marble statues, was begun in 1386 by the munifi-
cent CKangaleazzo Yisconti, and completed by Napoleon I.
The Intebiob, with its doable aiBles, borne by 52 pillars, and its beautiful
stained windows, is very impressive. In the S. transept a ^JfonumerU tc
Oiaeomo and Oabriele dt" Medici^ by Leoni, erected in 1564 by Pope Piiu IV.
to the memory of his brothers. * Stained Olass windows in the choir. An
ancient sarcophagus of St. Dionysius, in porphyry, now serves aa a Font.
The subterranean Cappella 3. Carlo contains the tomb of S. Carlo Bor-
romeo (in summer 5-10, in winter 7-10 a.m. \ at other times, fee of i fr.).
The ascent (in the comer of the right teansept) of the *'Boof and Towsa
(ticket 25c.) is recommended, as the visitor is thus enabled to inspect
the architecture of the exterior more closely j a noble prospect of the
Alps and Apennines is also obtained in the early morning.
The *Oalleria Yittorio Emaaueie (PI. E, 5), a fine arcade with
tempting shops, built by Mengoni in 1865-72, and adorned with
statues of 24 celebrated Italians , connects the Piazza del Duomo
with the Scala.
In the Piatza delta Scala (PL E, 4) rises a marble statue of
Leonardo da Vinci (d. 1519) by Magni. The great master is surr-
ounded by his pupils Cesare da Sesto, Marco da Oggionno, Salaino,
and Boltrafflo.
Of the other eighty churches of Milan, the following are note-
worthy. — ♦S. Ambrogio (PL C, 6), founded by St. Ambrose in the
4th cent., and re-erected In the 12th cent., contains an '£cce Homo'
by Luini, and several ancient monuments. — *8. Karia dell« Chfasie
(PL B, 5), of the 15th cent., attributed to Bramante, contains pic-
tures by Ferrari, Caravaggio, and lAiini. The refectory of the mon-
astery contains Leonardo da Vinci't far-famed **Fsb8Co of thb
Last Suppbr, now almost obliterated (shown daily 9-4, 1 fr. ; on
Sun. and Thurs. gratis). — S. Haria pretiso 8. Celso (PL E, 8), by
Bramantej also contains good pictures. — B.Manrino (PL C, 5) has
fine frescos by Luini. — •S. Lorenso (PL D, 7) once formed part of
Roman palace ; the isolated ^Colonnade is borne by sixteen Corin-
thian columns. -— 8. Carlo Borromeo (PL F, 4), completed in 1847,
contains two groups in marble by Marchesi,
The «Brera (PL E, 3; open daily 9-4, Sun. 12-4 ; adm. 1 fr. ;
1. and Thurs. gratis), or Patamto di Scitme, LeUere ed Arti^ for-
y the Jesuits' College, contains the Public Library (300,000 vols..
Brtra, MILAN. 113. Route, 437
1000 MSS.), * ColUciion of Coins (60,000), the Observatory, Casts
from the antique, an Archaeological Museum and a most interesting
*Pictufe Oallery (Pinacoteca). In the court are marble statue^.
PiCTUBE Gallebt. Antechambers I. and II. : Frescos by Luiniy Fer-
rari, £ramantinOy and Marco da Offffionno^ the finest being Luinf* Angela
(Nos. 14, 26, 45, 49, 54, 68), works of a 'genre' character (2, H) 13),
and scenes from the life of Mary (S, 19, fi, 43, 51, 63, 69, 73) \ *47.
Madonna with 88. Antony and Barbara; 26. Oaud. Ferrari, Adoration of
the Magi. — Oil-paintings. Ist Boom: 75. Bargognone, Coronation of Mary ;
7S. Bernardino de' Conti, Madonna; 106. And. Solario. Madonna. — 2Dd
R. : Gentile da Fahriano, Mary in glory; CrivelU, 16d. SS. Jerome and
Augustine, 167. Bartoh Montagna, Madonna; 164. Oent. Bellini, Preach*
ing of St. Mark; 193. Crivelli, Madonna. — Srd B. : 206. Moretto, Madonna
with SS. Jerome, Anthony, and Francis; 209. Bonifctcio, Finding of Moses;
P. Veronese, 219. SS. Gregory and Jerome, 220. Adoration of the Magi,
221. SS. Ambrose and Augustine, 227. SS. Antonius Abbas, Cornelias, and
:yprian. — 4th B. : Lorenxo Lotto, «253, ^254. 255. Portraits ; '*248. Titiany
li. Jerome. — 5th B. : 261. Qiov. Bellini, Madonna; "^264. And. Mantegna,
liar^e altar-piece; 266. Bern. Luini, Madonna; **267. Leonardo da Vinci,
Hudy for the head of Christ in the Last Supper; *^0. BaphcMrs famous
Spos&lizio'*, or Marriage of the Virgin, painted in 1504 for the church of
\. Francesco in Citta di Castello ; ^2. Giotto , Madonna ; Mantegna, ''273.
Meta ; 282. Madonna and Angels ; 280. Andrea da Milano, Portrait ; Luca
Hgnorelli, 262. Scourging of Christ; 281. Madoniuk. — 6tb B. : 283.
'rivelli. Madonna and Saints; Giov. Bellini, *284. Pieta, *297. Madonna;
300. Oima da Conegliano, SS. Peter, Paul, and John the Baptist.
- 7th R. : Nothing of special interest. — 8th B. : 328. Lor. Costa, Ado-
ition of the Magi; 331. Guercino, Expulsion of Hagar; 333. Dossi,
t. Sebastian ; 334. Fr. Franeia, Annunciation. — 9th B. : 346. ffobbema,
andscape ; and other Dutch works. — 10th B. : 390. Velazquez (?), Dead
lonk ; 442. Van Dyek, Madonna and Child with St. Antony of Padua;
46. Van J>pck, Portrait; '*447. Rubens, Last Supper; *''449. Rembrandt,
jrtrait. — 11th B. : 456. Domeniehino, Madonna and saints. — To the
ft is a suite of rooms with modem pictures , designs by academicians,
stB, etc. — On the ground-floor is the Kuaeo Archeologico (daily 12-3,
m. ^/« fr-i 8an. 2-4, gratis), a collection of antique, mediaeval, and
snaissance sculptures and old frescos, most of them found at Milan,
nong the best sculptures are those 'bjAgostino Btuti, surnamed IlBambaJa.
The famous *Bibliotheca AmbroBiana (PI. D, E, 5), open on
;ek-dayB, 10-3 (fee 1 fr. ; pictures on Wed. 10-1272, gratis),
jnded In 1609 by Card. Fed. Borromeo, contains 160,000 vols,
d 8000 MSS. Among the pictures is ^BaphaeVs cartoon for his
hool of Athens.
The MiiseoFoldi-Penoli(Pl. F, 4), Via Moroni 10, contains
admixa'ble collection of weapons, pictures, sculptures in marble.
mze, and terracotta, furniture, tapestry, trinkets, etc., ex-
ited in the house of the founder Gavaliere Poldi-Pezzoli (d.
^9). Admission daily 10-4, on festivals 12-3; 1 fr. ; cata-
de 1 fr.
The '^OBpedale Mag^^ore (PI. F, 6), a remarkably fine brick
ice, begun by Ant. FUarete of Florence in 1457, contains nine
erent courts. The external terracotta incrustation is observed
itlier Milanese buildings, but the facade of the Ospedale with its
and beautiful windows is probably unsurpassed.
I'he Castello (PI. D, 3, 4), adjoining the Piazza d^Armi, once
438 Route 113. MILAN.
the Beat of the Yisconti and Sforza, is now a barrack. Behind it
lies the Arena ^ a kind of circus for 30,000 pers. , founded by
Napoleon I. (fee ^/itr.').
On the N.W. side of the Piazza d'Anri rises the *Axeo del
Sempione (PL B, 2), a triumphal arch of marble, founded by Na*
poleon in 1804 by way of termination to the Simplon road, and
completed in 183d (107 steps to the top).
The Giardini Pubbliei (PI. F, O, 2, 3),), between the Porta Ve-
nezia and Porta Nuova, are the chief promenade of the Milanese. In
the older part is the so-called Salonei containing the Museo ArtUtico
(daily 1-4; 1 fr. ; Sun. 20 c.). Adjoining the W. side is the
Muaeo Civico^ containing natural history collections (Tues., Wed.,
and Sat. , 11-3, V2 fr. ; Thurs. gratis). At the W. entrance to the
new Giardino Pnbblico is the Piazza Cavour , embellished with a
*8tatue of Cavour in bronze, by Tabacchi, erected in 1865.
The new *Gemeter7 (^Cimitero ; 50 acres) , outside the Porta
Tenaglia (PI. G, D, 1), contains many fine monuments (several
with marble statues of the mourners) and a 'Tempio di Gremazione'.
•View of the Alps.
INDEX.
Aa, the Engelberger 113.
121.
— , the Xelch 118.
— , the Samer 118.
— , the Seetbaler 126.
— , the Steinen 04. 96.
— , the Waggithftler 4a
Aaberli Alp 40.
Aabem Alp 40.
Aadorf 46.
Aaraa 20.
Aarberg 197.
Aarberger Moo8, the 197.
A.arburg 15.
Aare, the 11. 20. 141.166.
168. etc.
iareboden, the 168.
iare Glaciers, the 168.
iarmiihle, viUage 142.
141.
Lathal 41.
Lbbadia 432.
Lbbaye, IT 198.
. Abbondio on the Lake
of Como 428.
- near Liugano 409.
bendberg, the 146.
bfrutt 104.
blantacben 182.
bscbwnng, Im 168.
cberbriicke , the, near
Alpnach 117.
sbselberg, the 76.
sbseten 171.
;iii9len8tock, the 76. 79.
btelsaAsbache, the 120.
ibtelsaasgrtt, the 121.
la 363.
d'im L.ej 378. 379. 3S2.
lasut 356.
letta 110. 350.
Piz d' 110.
laa, Koaplce aU' 292.
Piz dell' 389.
lua Rossa 355.
1, Villa 418.
l4, ibe 262. 397. 398.
slboden 171.
ffc, tbo 402.
3r Olacier, the 315.
?r PaM, the 316.319.
srspitze, the 177.
St. Adrian 90.
Adula, Piz 363.
Ael, Pont d' 270.
Aela Hat 366.
Aela Pass 366. 369.
Aela, Piz d' 366.
iElpeltispitz, the 333.
i£lplisee, the 344.
iEmsigen-Alp, the 89.
JBmsigenegg 89.
^rgerenbach, the 194.
^rlenbach, the 167.
^rnen 294. 295.
iEsch 9. 126.
— , the Alp 62.
iEschach 50.
^scher. Zum 54.
iBschi 170.
^schi-Ried 171.
^ugst 68.
^ugster Berg, the 68.
iEussere Thurm, the
319.
Affoltem 18. 68.
Agagliouls 383.
AgftMizhom, the 168.
Agasaizjoch, the 169.
St. Agata 416.
Agaz^o 424.
Agettes, les 298.
Agittes, Aoz 221.
Agnas 387.
Agno 425.
— , the 408.
Agone, Val 395.
Agums 402.
Ahnengrat, the 2f4.
Ahorn-Alp 113.
Ai, Alp 221.
— , Tour d' 221.
Aigle 220.
Aiguebelle 241.
Aigueblanche 242.
Aiguille, Plan de V 252.
AigniUe Orise 253.
Aiguille Verte 249. 256.
Aiguilles Marbr^es 253.
— Rouges (Chamonix)
251.
(Val d^H^ren8)300.
, Glacier des 299.
Aimaville, Castle 266.
270.
Airette, V 231.
Airolo 101.
AiX'les-Bains 239.
Alagna 322.
— , BocchetU d' 322,
Alb, the 22.
Albana, Piz 370.
Albbruck 22.
Albens 240.
Albert-Hauenstein 22.
Albertitobel, the 341.
Albertville 242.
Albesio 433.
Albeuve 228.
Albigna, the 372.
Val 372
Al\>igna Glacier 372. 373.
Albin, Alp 359.
Albinen 175.
Albis, the 37. 68.
Albis Hochwacht, the 37.
Albisbrunn. Baths 68.
Albisgiitli 37.
Albogaaio 426.
Albris, Piz 3S5.
Albrunhorn, the 294.
Albrun Pass, the 294.
Albula, the 342. 356. 366.
Albula Pass, the 367.
Albulahom, the 342. 367.
388.
AletschGlacier, the Great
158. 286. 294.
— , the Upper 286. 294.
Aletschbord 294.
Aletschhom, the 293.
Alex 213.
Alfenzbach, the 404.
Algaby 289.
— , Gallery 289.
Air Acqua, Hospice 292.
Alia Chiesa 297.
Allalin Glacier 319. 320.
Allalinhom, the 319. 320.
321.
Allalin Pass, the 319. 316.
AUaman 211. 220.
Allamans, Les 234.
All^e, Alp r 304. 301.
— , Col de r 301. 304.
— , Pigne de V 301. 304.
— Blanche 263.
, Glacier de 1' 263.
AUein 279.
Allenbachthal, the 171.
440
INDEX.
Allensbach 23.
All^ves 276.
Alliaz, Bains de Y 216.
218
AlU^res 228.
AUinges, Les 231.
Allmannsdorf 29.
Allmannshohe. the 29.
AUmen Alp 172. 173.
Allmend 150.
Allmendhubel, the 149.
AUweg 117.
Almagell 620.
Almageller Alp 321.
Almens 36S.
Alogna, Alp 365.
Alpbach, the, near Ein-
siedeln 92.
— , near Kandersteg 173.
— , near Meiringen 163.
Alpetta 3S0.
Alphubel, the 320. 321.
Alphubeljoch, the 321.
316.
Alpien 289.
Alpien Glacier, the 289.
Alpienbach, the 289.
Alpiglen 155.
Alpina, Farm 378.
Alpligen Olacier, the 104.
Alpligen Liicke, the 104.
Alpnach 117.
Alpnach-Gestad 117.
Alpnach, Lake of 117.
Al Ponte 294.
Alpthal 94.
— , the 92. 94.
Alaerio, Lago d' 433.
Altanca 101.
Altdorf 97.
Alteingrat, the 341.
Altelfl, the 174.
Altenalp 66.
Altendorf 40.
Altenorenalp, the 110.
Altikon 30.
Alt-St. Johann 57.
Altmann, the 56.
Altmatt 94.
Altnau 29.
Altorf 97.
Alt-Solothnrn 13. 16.
Altstad. islet 75.
Altst&dten (Bhine Valley)
327.
Altataffel 292. 296.
Altfltetten (near Zurich)
18. 68.
Alt-Wadenswyl 92.
Altwis 126.
Alun, Piz 831.
Alv, Piz 394.
\lvanea 342.
Alvaneu, Bad 365.
Alraschein 357.
Alvascheiner Alp'341.
Alvier, the 44. 323.
Alvierbach, the 404.
Alwind 49.
Alzasca, Lago di 413.
Alzo 423.
Am Platz, Davos, or St.
Johann 340.
, Klosters 887.
— Senk 288.
Amalia, ViUa 433.
Ambri 102.
Amden (Ammon) 42.
AmdenerBerg, the 4^ 57.
Ammerten Glacier, the
179.
Ammertengrat, the 178.
Ammertenhom, the 178.
Ammertenpass , the 179.
Ammon 42.
Amnisbiihel, the 145.
Amphion, Bath 231.
Amriswyl 46.
Amselfluh, the 344.
Amsoldingen 137. 181.
Amsteg 99.
Ancel, Pas d' 238.
Andtter 859.
Andelfingen 31.
An der Egg 122.
Andermatt 106.
Andermatten 297.
Andey, Pointe d' 245.
AndoUa, Pizzo d* 289.
Anengrat, the 294.
Anet 197.
Angenstein, Castle 9.
Angera 416. 420.
Ani^res 231.
St. Anna, Chapel, in the
Schachenthal 63.
— , — , near Trons 349.
— , — , (Lys VaUey) 324.
— , Castle of 48.
— , Glacier of 106.
Annecy 243.
— , Lac d' 243.
Annemasse 206. 23S. 244.
245.
Annes, Col des 244.
Anniviers, Val d' 308.
Annone, Lago d' 433.
Anteme, Col d' 254.
Antey-8t-Andr^ 810.
St. Anthony, Chapel 51.
Antigine, Passo d 290.
-, Pizzo d^ 290.
Antigorio, Valle d' 290.
297.
St. Anton, on the Arl-
berg 404.
St. Anton (Montavon) 405.
— (Saasthal) 321.
Antongina, Villa 431.
St. Antonien 337.
St. Antonier Joch, the
337. 405.
S. Antonio, near Bonnio
399.
— , near Belli nzona 407.
—, in the PoschlaT 396.
— , Cantoniera 108.
— , Boechetto di 413.
Antrona Plana 290.
— Pass, the 290. 320.
— Valley, the 290.
Ansa, the 317. 322.
Anzasca Valleyf the 317.
Anzeindaz- 290.
Aosta 266.
Aouel, Chalets ^' 310.
Appenzell 53.
— , the Canton 5a
— Ausser-Rhoden 50.
— Inner-Rhoden 50.
Aprica, Pasao d* 997.
Aqoila 365.
Arablone, Cima deiriia
Arayis, Col des 244.
Arbedo 365. 103.
Arbenhom. the 906.
Arbignon 175.
Arblatsch, Piz 369.
Arbola, Colle d' 294.
— , Punta d' 294.
Arbole, Colle d' 271.
Arbole, Chalets d' 267.
271.
Arbon 29.
Arbostora, Mte. 410. 425.
Arc, the 270.
Arcore 433.
Ardenno 396.
Ardetz 390.
Ardetzenberg. the 406.
Ardon 231. %3.
Arenaberg 24. 30.
Areu, Pointe d' 245.
Areue Valley 363.
Areuse, the 187. 188. 191.
— , Gorges de V 191.
Argegno 431.
Argent. CasUe of 266.
Argenti&re 266.
— , Aiguille d' 254.
— , Col d' 264.
—, Olacier d' 264. 266.
Argentine, the 222. 290.
Argient, Piz 384.
Arietta Colle d' 272.
Arina, Piz 898.
Arias, Mt. 370. 377.
Arlberg, the 404.
Arleeheim 8.
INDEX.
441
Arly, the 242*
Arola 42d.
Arxneno 421. 422.
ArmiUoB 180.
Amaz 269.
Amegg 46.
Amen Lake 226.
Amex 197.
Ami Alp 114.
Arnitobel, tbe 114.
Arola 420.
Aroletta, Croix d' 274.
Arolla, Combe d' 290.
— , Chalets 299.
— , Glacier de V 298.
— ' Pigno d^ 282. 298.
300. '^■
Arona 490.
Arondine. the 242.
Arosa 344.
Arpenas, Cascade d' 245.
Arpette, Val d' 276.
Arpiglia, Pia d» 389.
Arpille 224.
Arpisson, Chalets d' 271.
Arpitetta, Alp 304.
— , Pointe d' 304.
Arth 83. 91.
Arth-Goldau 83. 96.
Arthaz 245.
Artoito-Tunnel 102.
Arve, tlie 207. 245. 249.
259. etc.
Arveyc 221. 226.
Arveyron, Source of the
250.
Arvier 266.
Arvigo 365.
Arvigrat, the 118.
^Irzinol, Pic d^ 299.
Asarina 372.
A.8chera, Conrent 367.
Iscona 416.
Vsnago 435.
kspermont 829.
issa, Val d' 398.
issina. Valle 484.
lsso 4oi.
istras da Daint 393.
- da Doara 392.
-, Piz 392.
.ttinghauBen 98.
tzmoos 338.
u. Convent near Ein-
siedeln 94.
-, in the Rhine Valley
•, on the Lake of Zu-
rich 88.
•, Waggithal 40.
iberg, the Grotse 40.
. Aubin 191.
ibonne 211. 220.
Aubonne, the 211. 220.
Au Devant 229.
Audon,* see Oldenhorn.
Audos, Crdte d' 208.
Auengiiter 61.
Auem Alp, the 68.
Aaf dem Felsen 313.
— dem Piatt 294.
— den Fluhen 105.
— der Burg 94.
— der Fluh , Castle 295.
236.
— der Frath 294.
— der Bive 817.
Augio 365.
Augst 16.
Augstbord Pass, the 807.
Augstenberg, the 836.
Augstholz 125.
Augstknmmeu-llatt, the
311.
Angstmatthom , the 146.
Auje 388.
Aul, Pte 348.
Ault, Piz 350.
Aurona, Punta d"* 287.
Ansserbinn 294.
Auvemier 189.
Aux Posses 229.
Aranfon, the 222. 229.
Avants, Les 228.
Avegno 413.
Aven 230.
Avenches 196.
Aveno 428.
Aveatlna 324.
— , Glacier 324.
ATerserxRhein, the 359.
360.
— Thai, the 359.
Avigna, Val 392.
Avise 266.
Avizaille, Cantine de V
263.
Avril, Mont 281. 282.
Avrona 381.
Axalp 166.
Axenberg, the 77. 97.
Axenfluh, the 79.
Axenfels 78.
Axenstein 78. 347.
Axenstrasae, the 79.
Ayas, Val d' 324.
— , Lac d' 324.
Ayent 180.
Ayer (Val d'H^r^mence)
298.
— (Zinal) 303. 307.
Ayeme, Roc d" 333.
Ayutz, Pia 390.
Azeglio, Villa 429.
Azzano 431.
)
Baar 70.
Baarbarg, the 70.
Baceno 297.
Bachalp, the 159. 177.
Bachalpsee, the 159.
Bachimatt, the 136.
Bachistock, the 64.
Bachtel, the 41.
Bachtelen 134.
Bacone, Piz 375.
Baden in the Aargan 18.
Badile, Piz 398.
Badus, the 106. 352.
Bageachwand-H&he , the
124.
Bagnere, the 268.
Bagnes, Val de 280.
Bagni, Valle dei 898.
Balbianello. Villa 431.
Baldegg 126.
Baldegger Bee 126.
Baldenstein, Castle 356.
Bale 2.
Balen 321.
Balenflm, the 390.
Balenflrnhorn, the 320.
321.
Balema 411.
Balfrin, the 285. 320. 321.
Balisalp 163.
Ballaigues 198.
Ballenbfihl, the 125.
Balliswyl 192.
Ballwyl 125.
Balm-Alp, the 69.
Balmaz, La 223.
Balme 245. 282.
— , Aig. de 259.
— , Col de 259.
— , Grotte de 245.
Balme, La 261.
Balmenhom, the 313.
Balmeten Alp 99.
Balmhom, the 174.
Balmmatt 118.
Balmuccia 424.
Balmwald 109.
Balmwand, the 62.
Balsthal 12.
Baltsohiedenoch, the 177.
Balzaretti, Villa 431.
Balsers 328.
Bandlauinenwand, the
155.
Bange, Grotte de 240.
Bannio 817. 424.
Baradello, Castello 434.
Baranca, Col di 317. 822.
424.
Barasso 434.
Barats, Les 252.
Barau 124.
Barberine, the 256.
442
INDBX.
Barberine, Col de 234.
Batch. Val da 389.
Bard 269.
Bardonn^che 241.
Bardonney, CoUe 272.
BaregKf the 157.
Barenbnrg, Buin 360.
Barengrabe, Pass 115.
Barenborn, tbe 348.
Barensool.^ Alp 64.
Bareniritt, Um 342.
Baretta Babna 338.
Barfalle, the 113.
Bargis 346.
Barlaui Alp 40.
Banna, La 281. 296. 324.
Barmas, Alp 234.
Barni 434.
Baro, Monte 432.
Barr Glacier, the 306.
Barr Pass, the 307.
Barrfaom, the 806.
Barschis 44.
Barschwyl 9.
St. Barth^lemi, Chapel
299.
St. Barth^lemv, Val 268.
Bartholomaberg , the
405.
Basel, see Bftle.
Baselaugst 3. 16.
Baselgia, Mt. 379. 389.
Basodino, the 296.
413.
Bassecourt 9.
Basset, Le 188. 216.
Batiaz, La, Castle 223.
Batie, Bois de la 207.
B^tie, Castle 241.
Battenalp, the 166.
Batzenheid 57.
Baacfhlen, the 132. '
Bauen 78.
Banma 45.
Baumgarten Alp, the 61.
Bayeno 419.
Bavona, Val 413.
Bayerbach, the 43.
Bazberg, the 106.
Beatenbach, the 140.
St. Beatenberg 144.
Beatenhohle, the 140.
St. Beatusbad 140.
Beaufort 242.
— , Valine de 242.
Beaulmes, Aig. de 192.
Beauregard, Castle 189.
Becca di Nona, the 267.
Beckenen, the 60.
Beckenried 76.
Bedeglia, Alp 412.
Bedretto 2r>2.
-, Val 292. 1C8.
BegUngen 43.
Bel Bheinfelden 21.
Beicham, the 286.
Beicbpass, the 286.
Beidewasser 401.
Beinwyl 126.
Belachat, Plan 251.
Belalp, the 286.
Belalphom. the 286.
Belchamp 243.
Belfaux l94«
Belfort 9.
Belfort, Tuin 343.
Belgirate 420.
Bellagio 429.
Bellaluna 366.
Bellano 428.
Bellanna 426.
Bellavista, the 418.
BellaYista Pass, the 387.
Bella Tola, the 305.
Bellegarde on the Rhone
238.
— in the Jaunthal 181.
Bellenalp, the 146.
Bellenh5chst 146.
Bellerive on the Sirs 9.
— (Lake of Genera) 231.
Belleville 212.
Belleyue, Pavilion de 260.
Bellinzona 108.
Belmistock, the 98.
Bel Oiseau, the 2S6. 257.
Belotte 231.
Belp 134.
Belvedere (Xacngnaga)
318.
^ (Little St. Bernard)
2nfi
Bendiikon 38. 40.
Bene-Grona 426.
Benken 41.
Benaenriiti, the 51.
Benzenschwyl 20.
B^on, the 184.
B^ranger, Col de 261.
B^rard, Vallde de 255.
256.
— , Cascade k 266.
Bercla, Val 369.
Bergamo 433.
Bergeibach, the 160.
Bergell, tbe Valley of 371.
Bergerie, La 211.
Bergli, the 158.
Berglibaeh, the 173.
Bergli Hut, see Moneh-
hiitte.
BergU-Joch, the 161. 166.
Berglistock, the 161. 352.
Bergiin 366.
Bergiiner Stein, the 366.
Beringen 22.
Beriaal 287.
Berlingen 21. 30.
Bern 129.
St. Bernard, the Oreat
277.
— , the Little 265.
-, Chapel 230.
S. Bernardino 364. 424.
— , Pass 363.
», River 418.
S. Bernardo 410.
Bemegg, the 48.
— , niin343.
Bemetsmatt 109.
Bemhalden, Aip 57.
Bemina, the 381.
— , Hospice 394.
— , Houses of 304.
— , Pass, tbe 395.
— , Pia 386.
Beminabach, the 382.
394.
Beminascharte, the 336.
Beroldingen 77.
Berra, the 194.
Berthood 16.
Bertol, Col de 301. 316.
— , Dents de 301.
— , Plan de 301.
Bescha, Hunt della 383.
BeschlosB, the 331.
Beaana, VUla 431.
Besnate 416.
Besozzo 416.
Besso, the 304.
Besson 230.
Betschwanden 60.
BetU 324.
BetU Furea, the 324.
Bettelberg, tbe 179.
Bettelmatt 296.
Bettelried 178.
Bettfluh, the 138.
BettUhom, the 287. 291.
Bettmeralp, the 294.
Bettmersee, the 294.
Beuggen 8. 21.
Beuli Alp, tbe 294.
Bevaix 191.
Bever, Val 379. 387.
Beverin. Piz 368.
Bevers 987.
Bevieuz 222. 229.
B^vUard 10.
Bex 221.
Bianca VaUey, the 317.
Bianei, Villa 426.
Bianco, Como 322.
Bianco, Pizzo(Maeugnaga )
318.
— (Bemina) 388.
Biandronp, Lago di 422.
Biasca 108. 355.
INDEX.
443
Biaschina, the 103.
Biaufond 188.
Biber, th« 92.
Biberbruck 92. 94.
Biberegg 94.
Biberg, Alp 173.
Biberlikopf, the 42.
Bibern 24.
Biberstein, Castle 21.
Bideneck, Castle 403.
Bider Glacier 320.
Bied, the 188.
Bief d'Etoz 188.
Biel in the Canton of
Bern 10.
— in the Valais 292.
Bielenstock, the 111.
Bieler Hohe 405.
Bien 274.
Bienenbei^ 11.
Bienne 10. 184.
Bienne, Lake of 184.
Bieno 418.
Bies Glacier, the 309.
— Joch, the 307.
Bietachhom, the 177.
Bietachjoch, the 177.
Bietschthal, the 286.
Bifertenbach, the 61.
Sifcrten Glacier 60. 61.
— Stock, the 60. 61. 349.
^iglenalp, the 164.
lignskBCO 413.
(igorio 410.
(ilten 40.
tinn 294.
;inna, the 294.
innegg, the 294.
innenthal, the 294.
ioUay 276.
ionaz 300.
ionnasflay 260.
-, Aig. de 254. 260.
ionnaaaay. Glacier de
260.
Lonnay 264.
lot, le 231.
rmensdorf 68.
ronico 408.
rrenberg, the 194.
rrenhom, - the 172.
rrfeld 18.
rrwyl 126.
rs, the 8. 9. 11.
-seek:, ch&teau 8.
ichofflberg, the 51.
ichofzell 46.
ithal, the 64.
se. Sen tier da 180.
soie 411. 425.
tenen Pass, the 288.
tistaffel SC8.
Bitto, Val del 396.
Bitzistock, the 121.
Bivio 369.
— Vignale 424.
Blackenalp, the 115.
Blackenstock, the 115.
Black! Alp 99.
St. Blaise 184. 197.
Blaison, Piz 366.
Blaiti^re, Aig. de 250.
252.
— , Cascade de 248.
Blanc, Mont 252.
Blanchard, the 232.
Blankenburg, Chiteau
178. 182.
Bias, Pis 351.
Blattbach, the 306.
Blatten 152.
— , Castle 328.
Blat^e, see Flattie.
Blanberg, the 106.
Blaue Gletscher, the 160.
166.
— Schnee, the 55.
— See, the 172.
Blegno, Val 354.
Bleiche Eapelle, the
287.
Bleicki, the Lower 144.
Blengias, Alp 348.
Blevio 432.
Blinden, or
Blinnen Thai, the 292.
Blitzingen 292.
Blonay, near Vevey 216.
— , near Evian 232.
Blonniere, la 243.
Bloye 240.
Bludenz 404.
Blamattalp, the 113.
Blame, the 139.
Blomenstein, Baths 137.
182.
Bliimlisalp, the 173.
— Glacier, the (Uri) 80.
115.
(Kander8teg)151.171.
Bliimlisalphom, the 173.
Bliimlisalp-Rothhorn.the
173.
Bliimlisalpstock, the 173.
Blommattalp (Turtmann
Valley) 307.
Boccareccio,Pa8SO del 295.
Bocca Rossa 294.
Boccioleto 424.
Bocco 424.
Bochard, Aig. du 260.
Bocken 70. 38.
Bockitobel, the 116.
Bockli, the 98.
Bocktschingel, the 110.
Bocktsehingelflrn, the
110.
Bodeli, the 141.
Boden Glacier 312.
Bodenbriicke, the 321.
Bodengo, Val 365.
Bodensee, the 26.
Bodio iOa.
Bodmen 289. 342.
Bodmen Alp 60.
Bodmer, CasUe 329.
Bodmer Alp 62.
Bodmer Glacier 289.
Bodmialp, the 146.
oflBoesio, the 417. 434.
Boet, the 222.
Bflsuf, Pas da 306.
Boezingen 11.
Bofflens 197.
Boganggen, Alp 151.
Boggera Falls, the 103.
Boglia, Mte. 410.
Bognanco, Val 290.
Bohl 146.
Bois, Les 250. 255.
^, Glacier des 255.
— , TSte de 276.
Boletto 423.
Bolgen Alp 113.
Bolla, Alp 410.
Bolladore 399.
Bollate 434.
BoUengo 270.
Bollingcn 4L
Bolongaro, Villa 420.
Boltigen 181.
Bommen Alp 54.
Bonaduz 366. 345.
Bonatchesse 281.
Bonaveaa, Chalets of 233.
234.
Bd'ndasca, the 372.
Bondasca Glacier, the 372.
Bondergrat, the 172.
Bonder-Krinden, the 172.
Bonderspitz, the 172.
Bonderttial the 171.
Bondo 371.
— , Forcella di 372. 398.
Bonhomme, Col da 262.
—, Croix da 262.
Bonigen 141. 164.
Br.niswyl 126.
Bon-Kant, the 246. 261.
Bonnefemme, Rocher de
la 262.
Bonne-Fontaine 227.
Bonneval 262.
Bonneville 245.
Bonport2l7. 239.
Bons-St. Didier 206. 238.
Bonstetten 68.
Bonvillars 191.
444
INDEX.
Bonvin, Mont 284. 172.
Borca 317.
Borce 234.
Bordon, Garde de 902.
Borgeau, le 276.
Borgne, the 284. 298.
Borgnone 413.
Borgo S. Agostino 432.
— Sesia 424.
— Vico 411. 482.
Borgofranco 270.
Borgomanero 423.
Borgonuovo 372.
Bormio 399.
— , Baths of 399.
Bornand, Petit and Grand
244.
Borne, the 244.
Bomengo, Passo 3D2.
Bomov 372.
Borromean Islands 419.
Bora, Alp 314. 322. 323.
Bortelalp, the 287.
Borterhom, the 286. 287.
Borterthal, the 306.
Bosa, Passo di 413.
Bosalgau, Alp 146.
Boschia 390.
Bosco 297. 413.
— , Val del 413.
Bosenstein, the 147.
Bose Seite, the 168.
Boset, Pont 272.
Bosquet de Julie 216.
Bosses deDromadalre 253.
Bossey 238.
Bosson, Bees de 299. 302.
Bossons, Glacier des 261.
262.
— , Les 252.
Boswyl 20.
Botsch, Val del 389.
BottareUo, Pizzo 320.
Botzberg, the 17.
Botzenegg 17.
Bouc, Vallone del 278.
Boudry 190.
Bougy 211.
— , Signal de 211. 220.
Bonjean 11.
Bouquetin, the 301. 304.
Bouquetins, Col des 302.
Bouquetins , Dent des
300.802.
Bourdeau 240.
Bourg 238.
Bourg St. Maurice 265.
— St. Pierre 276.
Bourget, Le 240.
— , Lac du 238. 239.
Bourgillon 193.
Boussine 281.
Boussine, Tour de 282.
Bousson, Oima del 274.
Bout du Lac 243.
Bouveret 232.
Boval 382.
Boveresse 190.
Boyemier 275.
Boveyre, Glacier de 276.
Boviss 434.
Bozingen 11.
Brach, Alp 60.
Brad 402.
Brail 388.
Bramberg, the 192.
Brameggjthe 123.
Bramois 296.
Brand 87. 404.
Brandlisberg, the 136.
Brandlisegg, the 146.
Brandner Thai, the 404.
Branson 224.
Brassus, Le 198. 212.
Bratz 404.
Braulio, the 400.
—, Mte. 400.
Braunegg 20.
Braunwald Alp 60.
Braunwaldberg, the 60.
Bri 410.
— , Monte 409. 426.
Bregaglia. Val 871.
— , Alp 394.
Bregalga, Val 369.
Bregenz 406.
Bregenzer Aeh, the 406.
Breggia, the 411. 432.
Breil 310.
Breitenboden, Alp 160.
161.
Breitenmatt 309.
Breiten-Tunnel 100.
Breithom , the Lauter^
brunnen 149.
— , near Zennatt 313.
324.
— , the Lotschthaler 286.
Brembana, Val 398.
Bremgarten 20.
Brenet, Lac 198.
Brenets, Les 188.
— , Lac des 188.
Breney, Col de 283. 298.
300.
Breney, Glac. de 281.
Brenleire, the 192.
Brennet 21.
Brenno, the 108. 354.
Breno 410.
Brent 217.
Brenva, Glae. de 263.
Br^onna, Col de 304.
-, Couronne de 299. 304.
Bressonaz 196.
Brestenberg 126.
Bretaye 221. 226.
Breuil, le 310.
Br^vent, the 251.
— , the Col du 254.
—y the Lac du 251.
BrianfOB, Csatle 242.
Brianza, the 433.
Bricolla, Alp 301.
— , Pointe dc 301.
, Col dc la 301.
St. Brida, Chapel 3&2.
Brides-les-Bains 242.
Brieg 285.
Brienho 481.
Brienz in the Canton of
Bern 163.
— (Orisons) 343.
— , Lake of 164.
Bxienzer Grat, the 164.
Brienzwyler 119. 163.
Brigels 3^.
Brigelser Horn, the 349.
Brigue 285.
Brindlistaffel 104.
Briona 424.
Brione 412.
Brisi, the 42.
Brbsago 416.
Bristen 106.
Bristenalp 99.
Bristenlaui Tunnel 99.
Bristenstock, the 99. 110.
Broc 182.
Brocard 275.
Brodhusi 181.
Broglio 414.
BroUa, Ponte 418.
Brouillard, Blont 263.
— , Glacier du 263.
Broye, the 194. 197.
Brozet, Glacier du 179
— , Col du 225,
Briickentobel, the 342.
Brugg 17,
Briigg 11.
Bruggen 47.
Brugnasco 101.
Brul^, Mont 300.
Brtillisau 53. 55.
Brulltobel, the 55.
Brulot 272.
Brunate 433.
Brundlisalp 90.
Brunig-Pass, the 119.
Brdnigen 119.
Brunnegghom, the 808.
Brunnegg-Joch, the 307.
Brunnen 78. 97.
-, the Sieben 178.
Brunnenstock, the 122.
Branni 88.
Brunni Alp 110.
— Glacier, the 109. 110.
INDEX,
445
Brunni Pass, the 110. 361.
Brunnibacb, the 109*
Brunnistock, the 80.
Brunnithftl, the 63. 109.
Briis or Brtisch 396.
Briisch Alp, the 40-
Broflin-Anizio 425.
Brasin-Piaiio 426.
Brusio 396.
Brussone 324.
Bubendorf 11.
Bubikon 41.
Butcione 422. 423.
Buchberg, the, in the
Bhine Valley 327.
— on the Lin th Canal 41.
Buchenthal 46.
Buchfl 63. 328.
Buche-Dallikon 18.
Budden, Capanna 267.
Budri, Bqc de 307.
Buet, the 255. 256.
Buffalora, the 364.
Buffalora Alp 389. 399.
Buffalora PaM 389. 399.
Biihl 122. 309.
Buhlalpe, the 113.
Biihlbach, the 146.
Buhlbad, the 172.
Buhler 52. 66.
Buhlstnte, the 172.
Buin, Piz 338. 390 405.
Buiame, the 260.
Biilach 46.
Biilisberg 95.
Bulle 226.
Buls, Alp 44.
Biimplitz 193.
Bundalp, the 161.
Bunderbach 172.
Siindnerbergfirn, the 346.
3unschi-Bad 181.
^iinzen 20.
Suochfl 76.
— , Lake of 76.
Suochser Horn, the 113.
iuonas 90.
{liren 15.
turg 24.
turg, the 159.
(urgdorf 16.
;urgei9 402.
tirgenstock, the 117.
urgfeldstand, the 145.
urgflah, the 137. 181.
urghalden 92.
urgiafl, Alp 359.
urgistein 137.
arglanenen 153.
urglen CObwalden) 119.
- (Thnrgau) 46.
(Uri) fc.
cirglen Sattel, the 181.
Burgli, the 31.
Burier 220.
Bnrone Glacier 395.
Burs 404.
Bursinel 220.
Burtigny 212.
Burvein 369.
Buscagno Alp 295.
— , Passo di 287. 294.
Biisingen 23.
Bussalp, the 159.
Busseraillea, Case de310.
Bussigny 192.
Busswyl 11.
Bu8to Arsiaio 421.
Buthier, the 266. 268. 279.
280.
Biitschelegg 134.
Butschwyl 57.
Buttea 189.
ButUaasen, the 151. 171.
Biitz-Alp 42.
Butzberg 16.
Oabbiolo 364.
Cabione 412.
Gacciahella Pass, the 373
— , Piz di 371.
Caccivio 434.
Cadabbi, Passo del 363.
Cadagno 101.
Gademario 410.
Gadempino 406.
Gadenabbia 429.
Gadenazzo 403. 415.
Gad Val 370.
Gadlimo, Val 101. 351. 354.
— , Bocca di 101.
Gadonighino, Alp 414.
Gagliatscha 359.
Gaillet, Spring 249.
Gainallo, Alp 429.
Galahrien 367.
Galanca, Val 366.
Galancasca, the 365.
Galanda, the 333. 335.
Galasca 317.
Galde 415. 417.
— , Gastello di 416. 417.
Galfreisen 343.
Galolzio 433.
Galmot, the 352.
Galtignaga 423.
Galvageione, Monte 411.
Gama 3i64.
— , Boechetta di Val 364.
Gamadra, Gima 354.
— , Val 348.
iGamana Alp, the 346.
Gambrena, Piz 387. 394.
— Glacier, the 387. 394.
— Pass, the 387.
Gambriales, Piz 110.
Gamedo 413.
Camerlata 434.
Gamiacholas 351.
Gamnago 433. 435.
Gamogasc 388.
Gamogh^ (ValPiora) 101.
Gamogh^, Monte (near
Lugano) 410.
Gamona, Alp 348.
Gamorino 4(77.
Gamoscio, Gomo del 323.
Campagnola 269.
Gampascio 396.
— , Piz 394.
Gamperio, Hospice 354.
Gampertogno 4^.
Gampf^ 377.
— , Lake of 377.
Gampi, mined castle 356.
Gampiglia 272.
— , Val 272.
Gampino 421.
Gampiolli 317.
Campione, Mtc. 432.
Campo (Val Bavona) 414.
~ (Lake of Gomo} 431.
— (Valserthal) 348.
— (Val Viola) 396.
— , Gomo di 396.
— , Val 372.
— , Valle di 396. 413.
Gampo Cologno 397.
— Dolcino 361.
— Moro, Val 386.
— Tencia 414.
Gampolungo Pass 414.
Gamporciero. Val 269.
Gampovasto .388.
Gampra 354.
Gampsut 359.
Gamscha, In 297.
Ganardhom, the 338.
Ganaria Valley, the 101.
352.
Ganciano Pass, the 387.
397.
Ganiciil 359.
Gannero 417.
— , Gastelli di 417.
Cannobbio (Lago Mag-
giore) 416.
Gannobbino, Val 417.
Ganobbio (near Lugano.)
409.
Ganova, Gastle 356.
Gantone Glacier, the 373.
— , Gima di 376.
Gantii 434.
Ganzo 434.
— , the Comi di 432. 433.
Gapella 388.
Caploch 287.
446
INDEX.
Capolago 375. 411.
Cappello, Alp 428.
Capriasca, Fonte 410.
Capiino, Monte 409.
Carale, Piz 994.
Carate 481.
Carcegna 422.
Carcoforo 424.
— , Bocchetta di 424.
Cardinell, Gorge 861.
Carema 269.
Careno 431.
Carimate 435.
S. Carlo (Lugnetz Valley)
347.
— (Val Bavona) 413.
— (Val Piora) 101.
— (Val Pv>8chiavina) 396.
— (Val Viola) 395. 399.
Carlotta, Villa 429.
Carmenna Pass 344.
Camusa Fall 346.
Carouge 206.
— , Ch&teaa 196.
Carrel, Capanna 310.
Carrera 345.
Casaccia (Val Bregaglia)
372.
— , Hospice on the Luk-
manier 354.
Casana, Piz 38S.
— , Val 388.
Casana Pass 388.
Casanella, Piz 388.
Casanna the 388.
Casatsch 372.
Casbeno 434.
Caslano, Monte 425.
Casneda 417.
Casnile Pass, the 373.
Cassano 483.
Cassarate 4(36. 409. 410.
— , Val 400. 410.
Cassons, Alp 346.
CasUgnola 409. 426.
Castasegna 371.
Castel. Chateau 24.
Castelberg, (3astle 348.
350.
Castelletto 416.
Castello 410. 432.
— , Cima di 675.
Castelmur, Ruin 372.
Castels 337.
Casti 368.
Castiel 343.
Castiglione 431.
Castione 365. 106. 398.
Castor, the 312.
Cataeggio 3)8.
S. Caterina, Baths 399.
S. Caterina in Sasso 417.
"it. Catharinenthal 28.
Catogne , Mont 275.
Catscharauls , the 110.
351.
Cauma Lake 347.
Caux, Mont 218.
Cavaglia 395.
Cavagliasco, the 995.
Cavallo 849.
Cavanna Pass, the 106.
111. 292.
Cavardiras, Pie 110.
Cavel, Pis 350. 348.
Cavel-Joch (Somvixer
Thai) 360.
Cavell-Joch (Pratlgau)
386
Cavendone 291. 413.
Cavergno 413.
Cavio, Cima di 371.
Cavloccio Lake, the 374.
Cavorgia 351.
Cavradi, Piz- 863.
Cavreccia, Val 370.
Cecilia, Capanna 897.
Celerina 379.
C^ligny 210. 219.
Ceneil 310.
Genere, Monte 406.
Cengalo, Piz 398.
Cenis, Mont 241.
CentoTalli, Valley 4i3.
Centrale, Pizzo 107.
Ceppina 399.
Ceppomorelli 817.
Ceres 274.
Ceresio, Lago 425.
Ceresole 274.
— , Scalare di 275.
St. Cergues 211. 238.
C6Am 298.
Cerlier 184.
Cerniat 183.
Cemobhio 432.
Gemosco 438.
Cervin, Mont 816.
— , Petit 313.
Cery 214.
Cesnola 269.
Cevins 242.
Cevio 418.
Chablais, the 281.
Chable 280.
Chables, Les 251.
Chailly 216. 217. 228.
Chaine, La 190.
Chaise, the 242.
Ghalame, Val 269.
Chalant 266.
Chalchagn, Fit 388. 385.
Chalets, Lac des 221.
Challant, Val 834.
Challes 241.
Cham 69.
Chambave 263.
Chamb^ry 240.
Chamb^ 219.
Chambre, la 241.
Ghambrelien 187.
Chamffer 377.
Chamois 310.
— , Col des 277.
Chamonal 323.
Chamonix 247.
— , Valley of 249.
Chamosalles 218.
Chamossaire, the 22^.
226.
Chamouny , see Chamo-
nix.
Ghamousset 241.
Champ Babau 218.
Champ dn Moulin 189.
191.
— de Praz 269.
Champ Long 389.
Champ Sech 889.
Champatsch 862.
Champel sur Arve 200.
206.
~ (Mon^oie-Valley) 261.
Champ^ry 238.
Champex, Lac de 276.
— , Val 276.
Ghamplan 180. 834.
Champlong (Val de Cogne)
272. 274.
— (Valtoumancbe) 310.
Ghamporcher 272.
— , Finestra 272.
— , Val 269. 272.
Ghampsec 280.
Ghamuera, Val 388.
Chancy 238.
Chandolin 225. 906.
Chan^las 190.
Ghanrion 281.
Chant Sura 339.
Chapeau, the 260.
Chapieux, Les, or
Ghapiu 262.
Chapis 274.
Chapuis, Chalet 243.
Chaputsch, the 876.
Chapiitschin, Piz 876. 885.
— , Pass, the 886. 887.
Ghardonnet, Aig. du 254.
256.
— , Col de 264.
Gharlanoz, Chalets de
251.
Charlottenfels , VUIa 22.
80.
Gharmettes, Les 241.
Charmey 183. 197.
Gharmontel. Mont 197.
Oharmoz, Aiguille de 200.
INDEX.
447
Gharnadura 379.
Charnex 217. 228.
Gharreire, D^fll^ de 277.
Ghartreuse, the 136.
Gharvensoa 267.
Gharvonnex 244.
Ghasseral, the 184. 187.
Ghasseron, the 192.
Ghast^. on the Lake of
Sils 376.
Ghat, Mont du 240.
— , Dent du 240.
Ghateau des Damea 310
Ghateau d'Oex 229.
— de Pierre 246.
Ghatel 182.
Ghatel St. Denis 227.
Ghatelard 257.
Ghatelard, Le 246.
—, Ghateau 216.
Ghatelet 226.
Gh&tillens 196.
Ghatillon, in the Aosta
Valley 268.
— , in the Arye Valley
^45.
— . on the Lac du Bourget
Ghaudron, Gorge du 218.
Ghaulin 218.
Ghaumont, the 186.
Ghauasy, Pic de 226. 229.
Ghauton 265.
Ghaux-de-FondiS, La 187.
Ghavanifl 271. 272.
Chavannes, Lac des 221.
— de Bogie 210.
Ghavans en Haut 268.
Ghavomay 192. 197.
Ghaz-Seche, Golle dl 272.
Gh€couri, Col de 264.
Gh^e 246.
Ghemenin 216.
Ghemin, Hont 276.
Ghenalette, the 279.
Chdne 246.
Ghdnens 194.
Gh^ran, the 240.
Gherasca, Val 287.289. 295.
Ghermignon 176.
Ghermontane.Graade 281.
— , Petite 281.
Ghermontane, Gol de 300.
Gh^alette, the 182.
Ghesiire 221.
Ghessel 232.
Gh^tif, Mont 264.
Gheyille, Pas de 230.
—y Chalets de 230.
Ch^vres, Pas de 282. 300.
Chevrier 244.
Chexbres 196.
— , Signal de 196.
Gheyres 194.
ChiaclaTuot 341. 366.
Chiampatsch, Piz 392.
— , Alp 392.
Chiamut 352.
Ghiapili di sopra 274.
Ghiareggio 375.
Chiasso 411.
Chiavenna 362.
Ghieggino 422.
Ghiesa 376.' 386. 397.
Chiesa, Alia 297.
Chi^aE, La 216.
ChiMres 197.
Ghiggiogna 102.
Chignana 310.
— , Waterfall 310.
Chignin, Castle 241.
Ghignin-les-Marches 236.
Ghillon, Castle 218. 220.
Ghilnaux, Castle 194.
Ghindrieux 238.
Chippis 308.
Chironico, Val 412.
Ch5glias, Val 393.
Chosalets, les 256.
Chougny 207.
Christolais 380.
Chiiem, Crap da 376.
Chiinetta, the 382.
Chur 333.
Churburg, Castle 402.
Ghurer Alpen, the 344.
Ghurer Joch, the 867.
Churftrsten, the 42.
Ghurwalden 367.
Cierfs 389.
Gima 426.
Gima, Villa 432.
Gima Bianca 412.
Gimalmotto 413.
Gimbro 416.
Gimes Blanches, Col des
324.
Gingino, Alp 290.
— , Pizzo del 290.
Ginuskel 388.
Ciprianspitz, the 886.
Giraun 358.
Gisano 433.
Cittiglio 434.
Givello 434.
Cirenna 434. 431.
CiTiasco 423.
Clara, VUla 419.
Glarens 216. 220.
Glariden, the 62. 110.
Claridengrat, the 110.
Clariden-Pass, the 62. 110.
Claridenstock, the 110,
Glaro 103.
— , Pizzo di 103.
Glavadel 342.
)Clavalit^, Val 26!$. 271.
Clemgia, the 891.
Cleuson, Col de 281.
Cleva Creusa, Alp 324.
Clugin 359.
Gluozza, Val 389.
Glusaz, la 244.
Gluse, La, near Aosta 279.
— , near Pontarlier 190.
196.
— , Montague de la 240.
Gluses 245.
Gooco, Forcarella 412.
, Val 412.
Cocquio 434.
Codelago, Lake of 294.
Coglio 4l3.
Cogne 271.
, Col orFendtre de2(2.
— , Val de 270.
Goire 338.
Coiro 421.
Col des Boches 188.
Goldrerio-Tunnel 411.
Golico 362. 428.
GoUa 410. 414.
— , Val 410.
Gollognasca 418.
GoUon, Col de 300.
— , Glacier de 305.
— , Mont duo.
— , Petit Mt. 300.
Collonge 231.
Collonges 238.
Golma, Col di 423.
Colobiano, Villa 431.
Cologny 20T. 231.
S. Golombano, Piz 395.
400.
Golombey 233.
Colombier 190.
— , the 238.
Golombire. Alp 284.
Golonges 2fl7.
Golonno 431.
Coltura 372.
Golumbe, Passo 354. 102.
— , Piz 102. 364.
Gomabbio, Lago di 416.
Gomaeina, Isola 431.
Gomano 410.
Combal Lake 263.
Gomballaz 229.
Combes, D^fil^ des 240.
Gombetta, Pointe de 824.
Gombin, the Grand 277.
281. 282.
Gombin de Corbassi^re,
the 279. 281.
Gombloux 242.
Combos 267. 271.
Cornelia, Passo di 413.
Gommugny 210.
448
INDEX.
Como 433.
— , Lake of 427.
Gomologno 413.
Concise 191.
Concordia Hut, the 168.
169. 293.
Gondemine 279.
Confinale, Honte 399.
— , Pasflo 387.
Conflans 242.
Constance 27.
— , Lake of 26.
Contamines sur Ht. Ger-
vais 261.
Contamines sur Arve
245.
Conters 337. 343. 369.
Conthey 230. 283.
Coato, Monte 371.
Contra 412.
Convers, Les 187.
Conversion, La 195.
Coppet 210.
Corbario, Castello 104.
Corbassi^re, Glac. de 280.
281
— , Combin de 281.
Corbeyrier 221.
Corcelles, near Neuch&tel
187.
— , near Avencbes 196.
— , near Grandson 191.
Cordevio 413.
Corenno 428.
Corg^mont 10. 187.
Corippo 412.
Coijeon, Dent de 227.
Cormoret 187.
Coma Bossa Pass 397.
Cornaux 184.
Cornera, Passo della 295.
— , Pizzo di 295.
— , Val 352.
Comet, Piz 392.
Comier, the Grand 302.
301. 904.
Comin, Port de 239.
Corno, Val 296.
Coroi, Piz 348.
Coronas, Colle di 272.
— , Lago di 272.
Corridor, the 253.
Cors, Chalet des 310.
Corsier 231.
Cort Lys 323.
Cortaillod 191.
Corte 414.
Cort^bert 187.
Cortot, the 324.
Corvatsch, Piz 385. 376.
377.
— , Glacier 377. 385.
Corvo, Piz 354.
Cosio-Traona 896.
Cossonay 192. 197.
Costainas, Pass 392.
Costassa, Becco 272.
Cotaiga, Mte. 430.
Cdte, La 211. 220.
Cotschen, Pis 390.
Gottens 194.
Cotter, Alp 302.
Courfaivre 9.
Courgenay 9. "
Conrmayeur 264.
Coum^re, Col de 310.
Couronne, Col de 304.
Courrendlin 9.
Court 10.
— , Roches de 10.
Courtelary 187.
Conrtes, Les 256.
Courtetelle 9.
Cou8in*Berra 194.
Consset 194.
Couvet 189.
Coux, Col de 234. 255.
Cozzera 348.
Cramont, the 265.
Cramosina, the 103.
Crana 413.
Crans, Chateau de 210.
Crap Alv 366. 350.
— da Chiiem 375.
— da Flem 346.
— Glarun 351.
— Long 44.
Crapaneira'Tobel,the343.
Crapteig, the 356.
Crasta 376.
Crastagiizza 386.
Crasta Mora 367. 387.
Crastatscha d89.
Crastota 383.
Cravate, tbe 316.
Craveggia 413.
Craverola, Paaeo di 413.
Cray, Mont 229
Cr^do, Tunnel du 238.
Cremenaga 426.
Cremeo 364.
Cremia 428.
Cr^mine 9.
Crempiolo 294.
Cr^pin, Cascade de 246.
Cresciano 103.
Cresogno 4!^.
Cresper-Spitz, the iS)6.
Cressa 423.
Cressier 184.
Crest Mutatsch 350.
Cresta in the Averser Thai
359.
— in the Bngadine 379.
— , Lake 346.
Crestalta 377.
Cr^us 182.
Cret 272.
CrSt, Col du 281. 298.
— , Glacier du 281.
Crete, Alp 299.
Cr^tas 271.
Crdte S^che, Col de 282.
Cretes, Les 226.
CrStes, ChEteau des
216.
Cr^ton 273.
Crettet 276.
Creux du Van , the 189-
— de Champ, the 225.
Creva 425.
Crevin 208.
Crevola 290. 297.
— , Gallery of 290.
Crey, Le 262.
Cribiasca, the 102.
Crin 413.
Oriner Furca, the 297.
413.
Crischona 8.
Crispalt, the 352.
CrispavM 352.
Cristallina Furca , the
414.
Cristallina, Piz 354. 414.
— , Passo 353.
— , Val 363. 414.
Cristannes, Piz 392.
Cristolais 380.
8. Croce 371.
Crocetta, Lago della 394.
Crocione, Monte 430.
Crodo 297.
Croix, la 256.
—, Col de la 221. 226.
Croix de Fer, the 259.
Ste. Croix 192.
Crot 359.
Croy 198.
Croza Alp. the 318.
Crozlina, Alp and Glacier
414.
Cruet 241.
Crnina, Alp 292.
Crugnolo 416.
OruBch 393.
Cruschetta, la 392. 402.
Crusinallo 291.
Cubli, Mont 218.
Cucciago 434.
Cuccione, the 426.
Cudrefin 197.
Cuera 833.
Cugnasoo 412.
Cugy 194.
Cufet, the 233.
Cully 196. 214. 220.
Culm de Val 362.
S
INDEX.
449
CuloK 238.
Cumbels 348.
Can^M, Col de 324.
Cuorgne 276.
Curaglia 363.
CnrcioBa Olader 363.
— , Plz 364.
CuregUa 410.
Curflraten. the 42.
Cunolo 417.
Cuiiinacdo 371.
CartinB 360.
Curtnatsoherhof 346.
Cuirer, Pis 368. 369.
Coflio, Lago 422.
Cnvio, Val 434.
Cusy 240.
CuKzago 290.
Sachli, Oberes 84.
— , Unterea 84.
Dachsen 26. 30.
Daehsfelden 10.
Dagmenellen 19.
Baigra 348.
Dailly 224.
Dala, «he 176. 177. 284.
Dala Glacier, the 177.
Dalaas 404.
Dalley, Case, da 266.
Dallenwyl 113.
Dallikon 18.
Dalpe 414.
Dalvassa 337.
Dammaflm, the 104.
Dammapaaa, the 104. 122
Dammastock, the 122.
291.
Dangio 866.
Danikon 18. 20.
Dandfen 404.
Dard, Cascade du 226.
202. 367.
Dardioa 349.
Darligen 140.
Darvun, the 352.
Datwyl 20.
Danhe, the (Gemnd) 174.
— (Scheinige Platte) 146.
Danbenhora, the 174.
Daubensee, the 174.
Davofl 340.
— am Plats 340.
— Dorfll 830. 340.
Davoser See, the 339. 340.
— LandwaMer, the
340.
Dayreseo 349.
Dasio Ghrande 102.
Dasio-Tunnel 102.
Ddgios 272.
Deitingen 13.
Delebio Sm» 428.
DeUmont 9.
Delle 9.
DelBberg 9.
Dent Blanche, the 316.
303.
,* Col de la 301.
, Glacier de la 301.
DenU di Yecchla 410.
Dentro, Val di 396.
Dents Blanches, the 283.
Dents de Yeisivi 330.
Derborenee, Lac de 230.
Derby 266.
Derendingen 16.
Derrio 428.
Desago 410.
Desio 436.
Devant, Au 229.
D^vens 222.
Devera, the 297.
Devero>Alp 296.
— , Val m. 2Sfr.
Devil's Bridge, the 106.
Deyen Alp, the 58.
Diablerets, the 226. 226.
230.
Diablons, the 304.
>-, Col des 806.
Diavel, Pis del 367.
— , Passo del 389.
— , Val del 389.
Diavolezsa, La 386.
Diavolo, Ponte del
Diechterhom, the 122.
Diegten 12.
Dielsdorf 44.
Diemox 368.
Diemtigthal, the 181.
Dieni %1.
Diesbach 60.
Diesrat, Alp 348.
— , Pass 348.
Diessenhofen 23.
Dietfurt 67.
Diethelm, the 40.
Dietikon 18.
Dietlikon 46.
Digg 346.
Dingy St. Glair 243.
Dintikon 18. 20.
S. Dionigio, Promont. 432.
Diosas, the 246. 264.
— , Gorges de la 246.
Dirinella 416.
Dischma-Thal, the 339.
341.
Disentis 350.
Disgrasia,Honte deUa397.
— , Oapanna della 897.
Disiert 360.
Distelalp, the 319.
Diatel Glacier, the 286.
Distelhom, the 286.
Babdbkkh, Switserland. 12th Edition.
DivegUa, Alp 287. 296.
DiTonne 210.
DiTonne, Chalets de la
211.
Diz, Val des 281. 900.
Dizenze, the 298.
Djonan, Lac 273.
Dogem 22.
Doire, the 263. 266.
Doldenhom, the 173.
Ddle, the 211.
Dolent, Mont 264.
Dolf, Pis 346.
DoUftia, Pavilion 169. 167.
DoUone 264.
Dom, the 315. 330.
Domancy 246.
Domaso 438.
Domat 346.
Domdidier 196.
Dom^ne, Bains 194.
S. Domenica 366.
Dom-Joch, the 321.
DominikhShle, the 90.
Domleschg, the 356.
Domo d^Ossola 290.
Dompierre 196.
Donath 368.
Dondenna 372.
Dongio 366.
Dongo 438.
Donnas 360.
Dopleschwand 123.
Dora Baltea, the 263. 264.
266. etc.
Dorfbaeh, the 163.
DoHa, the 241.
Dori^res, Lac 371.
Dorine, the 243.
Dorio 428.
Domach 8.
Dombim 406.
Domige Bnicke, the 161.
Doron, the 343.
Dosd&, Pizzo di 396.
Dossen, the 87.
Dossenhom, the 162.
Dossenhutte , the 163.
167.
Dossentobel, the 87.
Dotta, la 896.
Dottikon 18. 20.
Dottingen 31.
Douanne 184.
Doubs, the 9. 188.
— , Cdtes da 188.
— , Saat da 188.
Doaglass Hat 404.
Doveria, the 289. 390.
Drance, the, in the Cha-
blais 231.
— , in the Valais 334. 263.
m 280.
•29
450
INDBX.
Dreiecklioni, the 393.
DreilaDdenpiUe, the 405.
Drei]iLnderetein,the 39.93.
Drei Linden, the 71.
Drei Schwestem, the 338.
Dreispraeheiuipitae, the
4W..
Drinc, CoUe del 373.
Droites, Lea 256.
Dronfts, Pic de 379.
Dni, Aiguille da 249.
Drusberg, the 32.
Drusenfluh, the 405.
Drusenthor, the 336.405.
Duana, Passo della 865.
371.
Duana, Pizzo della 372.
Diibendorf 40.
Dubino 363.
Ducan Pass, the 342.
Ducan, Piz 343.
Diidingen 193.
Dufoux^Spitae , the 313.
318. W.
Duggia Valley, the 424.
Duin, Tour de 222.
Duingt, Ch&teau 243.
Dundelsbach, the 119.
Dundenhom, the 178.
Diinden Pass, the 151.
Dongel Glacier 179. 225.
Diinnern, the 13.
Durand, Glacier de (in
the Val d'H4$r^mence)
282. 298. 300.
, in the Val de
Zinal 301. 30i. 305.
— , Col 805. 316.
— , Mont 805.
Duranna Pass, the 343.
Durezza, la 392.
Durgin, Piz 61.
Durnachthal, the 66.
Dumant, Gorges da 275
Diirrbach 137.
Diirrenasch 128.
Diirrenberg, the 150. 151.
171.
Diirrenbiihlhutte, the
363.
Diirrboden, the 841.
Diiflsistock, the 100.
Duvin 348.
Dynhard 30.
Dza, Col de 310.
Sau, the Grande 235. 226.
— Morte, the 243.
— Noire, the 256. 284.
Eaax Boages, Cantine des
265.
Baux Vlves, Les 207.
Eben Glacier, the 400.
Ebenalp, theJS4.
Ebenrain, Chateau of 12.
Ebi, Meadow 962.
Ebihora, the 305.
Ebikon 69.
Ebligen 164.
Ebnat 57.
Ebnefluh, the 152.
Ebnefloh-Joch, the 163.
Bbneten Alp 111.
Ebnit 225.
Eeandies, Col des 276.
Ecce-Homo-Chapel 94.
Echallens 214.
Echelle, Pas de V 208.
— , Pierre k V 252.
Echelles, Passage des 188.
Echevenoz, Les 279.
Ecl^pens 192. 197.
Ecluse, Fort de V 238.
Ecoulaies, Glacier des 281.
Ecublens 196.
Edolo 897.
Effingen 17.
Effretikon 41. 45.
Egelshofen 29.
Egeri, Oberand Unter94.
-, Lake of 94. 69.
Egerkingen 13.
Egertenbach, the 149.
Egg 92.
Eggen 344.
Eggenalp, the 286. 315.
Eggensehwand 172.
Eggersried 51.
Egginerhorn, the 320.
Eggiflhorn, the 293.
EggU-Alp 138.
Eginen, Valley of 292. 295
Eginenbach, the !1^.
Eglio, Lago d''417.
Eglisau 4o.
Egnach 29.
Ehrenfels 356.
Ehrlose, the 125.
Eichbuhl 135.
Eigenthal 123.
Eiger, the 157.
Eiger Glacier, the 154.
Eigerhohle, the 157.
Eigerjoch, the 158.
Eigua, Col d* 317. 424.
Eiken 17.
Einflschthal, see Val
d^Anniviers.
Einshom, the 360.
Einsiedeln 93.
Eisboden, the 156.
Eisenfluh. see Isenfluh.
Eisenkopf, the 404.
El, Pont d' 370.
Elend 88.
Elevas 365.
Elgg 46.
Elm 66.
Emaney, Col d* 234. 268.
Embours, Glacier 3!&.
-, Val d' 323.
Embrach 45.
Emd 306.
Emdthal 170.
Emet, Lago di 360.
— , Alp 359.
— , Val 359.
Emilius, Mt. 287.
Emme, the Grosse 13. 16.
19. 134.
-, the Kleine 128. 134.
— , the Weisse 124.
Emmen 125.
Emmenbodea, the 126.
Emmenbriicke 19. 125.
Emmenmatt 124.
Emmenthal, the 16. 124.
Emmetten 76. 77.
Emmishofen 29.
Ems 345.
Encel, Pas d' 283. 234.
Enclaves, Col d* 268.
End der Welt, the 114.
Engadine, the 373.
Enge, near Bern 139. 134.
— , near Zurich 32. 37.
38. 40.
— , in the Simmenthal
181.
— , near the Giesebach
l66.
— , near Grindelwald 156.
Engelberg 114.
— , the 114.
Engelberger Aa, the 113.
121.
Engelberg-Roths took, the
116. 180.
Engelhom, the 161. 163.
Engethal, the 160.
Enggistein 125.
Engi 65.
Engstlenalp, the 120.
Engstlenbach, the 12a
Engstlensee, the 131.
Engstligen Alp 171. 172.
Engstligenbach, the 171.
Engstligengrat, the 173.
176.
Engstligenthal, the 171.
Ennenda 59.
Ennetherget the 89.
Ennetbiihl 57.
Ennetlinth 63.
Enney 327.
Entfelden 19.
Entlebuch 123.
— , the 123.
Bntlenbach, the 134.
INDBX.
451
£nto\ni, V4l 376.
Entrelor, Golle d* 273.
— , Valle d' 278.
Entremont, Val d' 276.
Entrerochefl, Canal d^ 192.
Eatr^vea 264.
Enzen, Alp 167.
Enzisweiler 60.
Epagny 227.
Ependea 192.
Epierre 241.
Epiael 271.
Eplatures 188.
Eptingen 12.
Eqniline, Pont de Y 266.
Erba 438.
— , Piano d' 488.
Erbser Bridge, the 66.
Erde 280.
ErgolB, the 11. 16.
Erguel, ehat. 187.
Eringer Thai 298.
Erlach 184.
Erlen 46.
Erlenbaeh in the Sim-
menthal 181.
— on the Lake of Zurich
38.
Erlimoos 12.
.Erlisbach 12. 20.
Ermatingen 24. 29.
Ermensee 126.
Ermitage, Balmes de V
206.
Err, Pia d' 369.
— , Val d' 369.
Err Glaeier 369.
Errjoch, the 369.
Erfltfeld 98.
Erstfelder Thai, the 98.
Errilli^re 271.
Erzegg, the 120.
Eraingen 22.
Eschenbach 125.
Esehenthal, the 290.
Esehenz 24. SO.
Escher- Canal, the 48.
68.
Eflchia, Val d' 388.
Eflchlikon 46.
Escholxmatt 124.
Eael, the 89.
Eselsriicken, the 161.
Esen, Piz d' 38S.
Esino 439.
£89et0, Col des 222.
Estavayer 194.
Este, Villa d' 431.
Estelette, Glacier de V
263.
Etablons, Col dea 280. 283.
St. Etiemie 276.
Etivas 229.
EUvas, Valine d' 229.
Etoile, Mont de r 299.
Etrambi^re, Castle 245.
Etroubles 279.
Etach, see Adige.
Ettenberg, the 68.
Etsel, the 92.
Etsli Alp 361.
Btxlxbaeh, the 361.
Etzlithal, the 99. 109. 110.
Etzweilen 30. 23.
Eugensberg 24. 30.
Eulach, the 46.
Eathal, the 95.
Evan^on, the 269. 324.
Ey^que, the 300.
— , Col de r 300. 301.
Evian 231. 238.
Evionnaz 228.
Evirea 244.
Evithal, the 99.
Evolena 299.
Ewen Pass, the 406.
Ewig - Schneehom , the
163. 162. 166. 169.
Ezcenevrex 281.
Eyelenegg 90.
Eyenalp, the dSiO.
Eyrs 402.
Eysee, Lake 164.
Fachsegg, the 146.
Fadara 836.
Faderhom, the 318.
FaOer Alp and Thai 162.
Fahlen, Lake of 66. 68.
323.
Fahrwangen 126.
Faiauna 337.
Faido 102.
Fain, Val del 394. 886.
Faldumpass, the 177.
Faldum-Bothhorn, the
177.
Falkenflah, the 135. 144.
Falknis, the 329.
Fallbach, the 187. 158.404.
Fallbodenhubel, the 166.
Faller, Alp 322.
— , Val da 369.
Fallera 347.
Failure, Mt. 267.
Fallerjoch, the 869.
Fallern 14.
Falli-Stutz, the 311.
Faltschonhom, the 348.
Fang 303.
Faoug 196.
Fara 424.
Fardun, rained Castle 358.
Farnbiihl, the Baths of
123.
Famigen 123.
Farrera 342.
Fatschbach, the 63.
Faucigny, Castle 246.
Faucille, Col de la 206.
211.
Fanlberg, the 154.
Faulen, the 60. 68.
— , the Bose 60.
>-, the Hohe 96. 99.
Faulenbach, the 96.
Faulenberg, the 163.
Faulensee, the 98.144.166.
Faulensee-Bad 139. 171.
Faulhom, the 158.
Faverges 243.
Fay, Le 258.
Fayet, Le 246.
Federia, Val 388.
Fedoz, Vadret da 376.
— , Val 376.
Fee 320.
— Glacier, the 330.
Feekinn, the 830.
Feissons - sous - Briancon
242.
Felben 46. <:
Feldbach 24. 80.
Feldkirch 405.
Feldmeilen 88.
Feldmoos 123.
Felikjoch, the 314.
Fellaria Glacier, the 386.
397.
— Chalets 386.
Fellers 347.
Fellibach, the 99.
FeUiliicke, the 99.
Felli Thai, the 96.
Felsberg 346.
Felsenburg, the 172.
Felsenegg 37. 69. 144.
Felsenhom, the 172.
Felsenthor, the (Rigi) 81.
82. 84.
Fenalet 229.
Fendtre, Col de (Gr. St.
Bernard) 279.
— (Val de Bagnes) 288.
—, Glac. de 283.
Fenis, CasUe of 268.
F^rach^ 264.
Fer-k-Cheval , Valine da
264.
Ferden 176.
Ferden Pass, the 177.
— Bothhom 177.
Ferdinandshohe 400.
Feriolo 291. 419.
Fennel, Valley of 178.181.
Femey 206.
Ferptele 301.
— , Glacier de 301. 3U2.
FerporU 336.
29*
452
INDEX.
Ferrera 369. 424.
— Valley 369.
Ferret 266. 279.
Ferret, Col 264. 279.
— , Petit Col 264.
— . Valley of 264. 265.
276.
Ferro, Sasso di 417.
Festigletscher, the 309.
315.
FeBtung (Bemina) 386.
Fetton 890.
Feuerstein, the 118. 124.
Feuerthalen 22. 23.
Feaillerette-Alp 176.
Feusiflberg 39.
Fez-Glacier, the 376. 386.
— , Valley of 376.
Fex-Boseg, Fuorcla 386.
Fex-Scerscen , Fuorcla
376. 387.
Fexbach, the 376.
Fianell-Pass 369.
— , Plz 869.
Fibbia, the 107.
Fidaz 346.
St. Fiden 48.
Fideris 337.
— , Baths of 337.
Fiderisau 337.
Fieno, Passo 394.
Fier, the 240.
— , D^fil^ du 240.
— , Gorges du 240.
Fiera, Val 389.
Fiemaz 310.
Fi^ry 324.
Fiesch 293.
Fieschbach, the 293.
Fiescher Alp 293.
Fiescher Glacier (Grin-
delwald) 157.
— , (Valais) 169. 293.
Fiescher Grat 158.
Fiescherhom, the Kleine
168.
Fiescher Jooh, the 168.
Fiescherwand, the 1^.
Fiesso 102.
Figino 410. 426.
Filisur 366.
Fillar, Chalets de 318.
Fillarkuppe, the 314.
Fillarpass, the 314.
Fille-Dieu, La 194.
Filli^re, the 2U.
Filzbach 43.
Fimber Pass 393.
Findelea 815.
Findelenbach, the 811.
815.
Findelen-GIacier, the 313.
315. 819.
Finero 417.
Finestra, Colle della 273.
Finge 285.
Finhaut 257.
Finsteraar Glacier 167.
168
Finsteraarhom 169. 293.
Finsteraarjoch, the 157.
Finstere Schlauche 106.
Finstermiinz 406.
— , Pass of 403.
— , Hoch 408.
Fionney 280.
Flora 80.
Fiorina, Val 297. 414.
Fischenthal 45.
Fischerholzli 26.
Fischetz, the 26.
Fisch-See, the 296.
Fisistock, the 172. 173.
178.
Fiume Latte, the 429.
Flaine, Lac de 245.
Flamatt 192.
Flambeaux, Les 253.
Flaschen, Alp 167.
FlMchenlochquelle 40.
Flascheralp, the 329.
Flascherberg, the 328.
Flaschli Alp 40.
Flatzbach, the 379. 380.
Flawyl 46.
Fleckistock, the 105.
Fl^g^re, the 251.
Flem 346.
— , Crap da 346.
Flembach, the 346.
Flendruz 182.
Fless Pass, the 338.
Fless, Val 338.
Fletschhom, the 289.
Fleurier 190.
Flies 403.
Fliesbordkamm 55.
Fliess Alp 55. 58.
Films 846.
Flimser See, the 347.
Flimser Stein 346.
Flirsch 404.
Flon, the 214.
Florentina, Tower 365.
Floria, Aig. de la 251.
Florins 891.
FlSscbwaldweid 147.
Fluchthom, the 390.
Fluela-Pass, the 339.
— , Valley 339.
Fliielen 80. 97.
Fluh, village 406.
Fluh Alp, the 175. 177.
315. 319.
— , auf der. Castle 295.
Fluh Lake 179.
Fliih Lakes, the 389.
Fluhberg, the 40.
Fliihli 124.
FliLhmatt, the 114.
Fluhwande, the 179.
Flumet 242. 2U.
Flums 44.
Fluntem 31.
Fobello 424.
Foli^rant, the 192.
FollaUirea, les 224.
Follmis 63.
Folly, La 266.
Fonci^re, Pavilion 252.
Fond de la Combe 254.
Fondecca, Alp 332.
Fondei 343. 344.
Fondo Toce 291.
Fonds, Valine des 254.
— , Col des 234. 254. 255.
Fongio 101.
Fontaine des Merveilles
240.
Fontaine Dessous 276.
Fontainemore 323.
Fontana 292. 891. 413.
— Chifltaina 393.
Fontaneto 423.
Fontauna, Alp 341.
Foo-Alp 66.
Foo-Pass, the 66. 44.
Foppa-Alp 346.
Foppa Pass, the 332.
Foppiano 297.
Fora, Piz 376.
Foraz, Piz 392.
Forbisch, Piz 369.
Forcellina, the 369.
Forchetta, Passo di 287.
Fordat, Mont 2Td.
Forclaz, Col de la, near
St. Gervais 246.
— , near Martigny 257.
— , Val d'Herens 299. 301.
Forcletta, Pas de la 307.
Forcola, la 365. 395.
Forest Cantons, the 74.
Formazsa Valley 297.
Fomet 273.
Fomo Alp, the 294.
— Glacier, the 373. 374.
— , Mte. 375.
— Pass, the 375. 396.
— , Scatta del 413.
Foron, the 246.
Fort, Mont 281.
Fortezza, the 386.
Foscagno Pass 399.
Fouilly, Le 246. 247.
Foumeauz, Les 310.
Fours, Col des 282.
— , Pointe des 262.
INDEX.
453
Ste. Fby 266.
Fraele, Val 400.
Fragstein, Buin 396.
Frakmund, Alp 89.
Frambourg 198.
St. FranciBciu-Tiinnel 97.
Fianzenflhohe 401.
Franzosini, Villa 418.
Fraschelfl 197.
Frasco 412.
Frasse 197.
Frastanz 406.
Frau, the 173.
Fraa. the Weisse 173.
— , the Wilde 171. 173.
FrauenbalmhQtte , the
151. 171. 173.
Fraaenfeld 45.
Frauenkirch 341.
Frauenthor, the 348.
Frazinado-Alp 289.
Freggio-Tunnel 102.
Freiberge, the 60. 65.
Freibergen (Rigi) 82.
Freiburg 198.
Fremd-Vereina 338.
Freni^res 222.
Frenkendorf 11.
Frenkenthal, the 11.
Frenschenberg 109.
Fressinone, the 289.
Fr^te de Sallies 222.
Fr^ty, Mont 264.
Freudenberg. the 47.
— , Suins 330.
Freudenfels, Ruins 24.
Fribourg 193.
Frick 17.
Fridau 13.
Friedrichshafen 27.
Frienisberg 197.
Friaal, Piz 349.
— , Val 349.
Froda Fall, the 108.
Frodolfo, the 399.
Frohburg, the 12.
Frohnalpstock, the (near
Brunnen) 78.
Frolichsburg, Ruin 408.
Frolichsegg 56. 48.
Frombach, the 287.
Fromberghom, the 138.
Fronalp, the 60.
Fronalpstock (near Gla-
ru8) 60. 43.
Fronscha, La 360.
Frontenex 242.
Frua, Sulla 296.
Frudiere, Bee de 324.
Fruitier, Pav. du 253. 264.
Frumsel, the 42.
Friindenhorn, the 173.
Friindenjoch, the 173.
Frutbach, the 63.
Frutberg, the 62.
Fruth, Auf der 296.
Fruthwald 297.
Frutigen 171.
Frutt Chapel 80.
Fruttli 83.
Frutt-Pass 163.
Ftur, Val 389.
Fuentes, Ruin 362. 396.
Fuldera 389. 392.
Fuorcla prievlusa 386.
Fuom 389.
Fuoms 363.
Furca, the ill.
— di Betta, the 324.
— , the Crincr 297.
Furcla, Piz 361.
Furcletto. the 344. 389.
Furen 122.
Furgg Alp 320.
Furggbach, the 320.
Furgg Glacier 290. 309.
Furgg Joch, the 314.
Furgg Valley 290. 330.
Furggenbaumhorn, the
287.
Furggle, the 61.
Furgglen-First, the 62.
Furka, the 111.
Furkahom, the (Furka)
112.
— (Arosa) 344.
Furkel, the 60.
Furkelen, the 80.
Furkenthali 174.
Furom 392.
Fiirrenalp, the 114.
Furrenbach, the 114.
Fiirstenau, Castle 366.
Fiirstenburg, Castle 402.
Furth 348.
Furtwang Sattel 122.
Furva, Val 399.
Fusio 414.
— , Val 414.
Fnsshdmer, the 286. 294.
Futschol Pass, the 390.
Oabelhom, the 304. 316.
Gabiet Alp, the 823.
Gabris. the 52.
Gaby 328.
St. Gada, Chapel of 360.
Gaden Alp 320.
Gadmen 122. 313.
Gadmenbach, the 130. 121.
Gadmer Fliihe 130. 132.
Gadmenthal, the 122.
Gagenhaupt, the 312.
Gaglianera, Piz 348. 349.
Gais 52. 66.
Galenhiitten, the 112.
Galenstock, the 113.
Gal^se, Col de 274.
Galgentobel 61.
St. Gall, Hospice 354.
Gallarate 421. 416.
Gallegione, Piz 371. 369.
St. Gallen 47.
Gallenkirch 406.
Gallina, Piz 3S0.
Gallivaggio 363.
Galmhom, the 176.
Galmis 183.
Galmitz 197.
Galtiir 390.
Gamehi Glacier 163. 171.
Gamchilucke,the 162.171.
Gammerrhein, the 363.
Gampel 286. 176.
Gampenhof, the 401.
Gamperton-Thal 405.
Gams 56. 838.
Gamsboden, the 106.
Gamsen, the 286.
Gamser Glacier 288.
Gamser Joch 288.
Gamsstock, the 106.
Gandria 426.
Gannerathal, the 406.
Ganter Bridge, the 287.
— Valley, the 287.
Gantrist Pass 137. 181.
Garde, La. Chapel 299.
Garflun 338.
Gargellenthal, the 406.
Garin, Punta 273.
— , CoUe di 273.
Garina, Cima 364.
Garlate, Lago di 483.
Garschenthal, the 111.
Garstatt 183.
Garstelet Glacier 314.338.
Garzeno 428.
Garzirola, Hte. 410.
Gaschurn 406.
Gassenried Glacier 331.
Gastern 177.
Gastern Valley, the 163.
173. 177.
Gastemdorf 177.
Gastemholz 178.
GasUose. the 183.
Gatschiefer, the 337.
Gauer Thai, the 406.
Gauli Glacier 163. 166
169.
— Pass 163. 166.
Gavirate 434.
Gay, Becca di 371.
G^ant, Col du 363. 264.
G^ant, Aiguille du 350.
353.
-, Dent du 363.
— , Glacier du 249. 363.
454
INBSX.
ChSant, Grotte da 810.
GebhardBberg, the 406.
Oeienpits, &e 56.
OeiMberg, the 114. 120.
Oeisahols 163.
Oeisspfad Pms, the 294.
Oeistenpitze, the 401.
Geitenberg, Alp 64.
Gel^, Mont 283.
Gelflngen 196.
Gellihorn, the 173.
Gelmerbach, the 168.
Gelmerhorn, the 168. 291.
Gelmevsee, the 168.
Geltenbach, the 173. 178.
Gelten-Glacier 182. 225.
Gelten Pass, the 235.
Gelterkinden 12.
Gemeinen Wesen, Alp
56. 67.
Gemmenalphom 145. 146.
Gemmi, the 174.
Gemonio 434.
Gemsbach, the 161.
Gemsfayeralp, the 60.
Gemafayrenstock, the 60.
Genuhorn, the 321.
Gemmattli, the 88. 89.
GemMtein, the 383.
Generooo, Monte 411.
Geneva 199.
— , Lake of 209.
Geneveyg, Les Haut^- 187.
Geneyeya sux^CofErane
187.
Genf 199.
Genthalalp, the 120.
Genthalbach, the 130. 121.
Genthod 210. 219.
Genthod, Pointe de 209.
GentiUno 409.
St. Georgen, near St. Gal-
len 56.
— , Chapel. In the Rhine
VaUey 333. 355.
— , near Wallenstadt 44.
St. Georges in the Jura
212.
— (Val dJ Rh&me) 278.
Geren Gletscher and Pass
292.
Gerenthal, the 292.
G^rine, the 194.
St. Germain 265. 269.
Gerroanello 431.
S. Gennano 270.
Germignaga 416. 417.
Gerona, Val 433.
G4roade, the 284.
Gerra 412.
Gers, Lac de 254.
^ersau 76.
•uwchni Alp, the 121.
Gerstenhom, the 291.
St. Gertnid 401.
St. Gervais 246.
— , Baths of 246.
Geschenen (Renss Valley),
see Goschenen.
— (Rhone VaUey) 292.
Geschenen-Alp 104.
Gessenay 183.
Gessens, Phare de 240.
Gessler's Castle 91.
Gestelnburg, the 285.
Gestler, see Chasseral.
Gets, Les 231.
Gex 211.
— , Pays de 210.
GfaU Alp 177.
Ghemme 424.
Ghifia 417.
Ghirone 348.
S. Giacomo on the Ber-
nardino 364.
S. Giacomo, Chapel in
the Val Bedretto 296.
— in the Liro Valley 363.
— near Sedrun 361.
— d'Ayas 334.
— di Fraele 389. 399.
— (Val de Lys) 323.
— Pass, the 101. 296.
8t. (Han 379.
S. Giano 416.
Giarsun 381. 390.
Gibel, the 63.
Gibloux, the 194.
Gibraltar 71. 74.
Gibswyl 45.
Glerm, Val 361.
Giessbach, the 165.
Giesaen 394.
— Glacier 154.
Gi^troz, Glacier de 281.
282. 300.
— , Alp 281.
— , H6tel du 281.
Giett«z, La 244.
Giffre, the 234. 245. 254.
Giglistock, the 132.
Gignese 421.
Gignod 280.
Gilly 212. 220.
Gimel 211.
<^iimmelwald 150.
Gingins 211.
St. Gingolph 232.
Giomein 310.
St. Gion, Hospice 364.
Giona, the 41o.
Gionnero, Monte 411.
Giop, Alp 379.
Giordano, PanU 310.
Giomico 103.
S. Giovanni, river 418.
S. Giovanni, bland in the
Lake of Como 431.
— , — in the Lago M ag-
giore 418.
Giselaflahj the 20.
Gisikon 69.
Giswil 119.
Git, Pis 109. 361.
Gitschen, the 80. 96.
Gittana 428.
Gitte, the 242. 362.
GitBi-Furgge,thel76. 177.
Giubiasoo 407. 410.
Giuf, Val 361.
Ginfolan 399.
Ginlia, Villa 430.
GiuUo, the 370.
S. Giulio, Island 423.
Giumaglio 413.
(Humella Pass 366.
Giumels, the 366.
St. Ginsepp 348.
S. Giuseppe, Cantoniera
108.
Giussano 436.
Glacier, Col du 261.
Glaciers, Les 262.
Glaciers, Aig. des 263.
— , Glacier des 961. 962.
— , Val des 363.
Gland 220.
Glane, the 194.
Glaris, see Glaros.
- in the Davos 341.
Glarisegg 24. 30.
Glamisch, the 64.
— , the Hinter 64.
— , the Mittel 64.
— , the Ruchen 64.
— , the Voider 69. 64.
Glamischhutte, the 64.
Glarus 58.
Glas 368.
Glas Pass, the 346. 357.
Glasaurer Tobel, the 343.
Glatt, the 40. 46. 46.
Glattbrugg 44.
Glattenftm 115.
Glattfelden 46.
Gleckstein, the 160.
Glecktobel, the 329.
Glenner, the 346. 348.
GMresse 184.
Gletsch, Im 112. 291.
Gletscheralp. the, near
Fee 330. 331.
Gletscherhom , the 133.
163. 178.
Gletsehentaffel 386. 294.
Gletschhom, the ill.
Gliems Glacier 61.
Gliemspforte. the 61.349.
Glims, Alp 3W).
INDEX.
455
aUon (Grlaoiu)) 347.
— (Vaud) 218. 217.
GU8 285. 287.
Olishorn, the 285. 287.
Glockthurm, the 403.
Gloggeren, the 55.
Glovelier 9.
Gliina, Piz 392.
Glurlngen 292.
Glurns 402.
Gliischaint, Piz 876. 386.
— , Fuorcla 386.
GnepfBtein, the 88.
Gnifetti, Gapuma 9ii.
323.
Gnof,' Alp 109.
Gobetta, Cime di 400.
Goldach, the 48.
Goldau 96.
Goldbach 16. 38.
Goldei, the 144.
Goldtfren 163.
Goldiwyl 136.
Goldswyl 144. 164.
— , the Lake of 144.
Gole, Val di 887.
Gol6se, Col de 234. 255.
Goletta^. Oolle 273.
Golise, Col de la 274.
Gollien, Gima di 273.
Golzem Alp, the 109.
See. the 109.
Gomi^^oi 401.
Ql^ndo 289.
Gonten, Baths in Appen-
zell 46.
— on the Lake of Thnn,
see Gunten.
Gontenbad 46.
Gonsen, the 44. 328.
Gfippenstein 176.
Goppisberg Alp 294.
Gorbs-Bach. the 332.
Gordola 412.
Gorecmettlen Alp 123.
Gorges mystdrieusesCTdte
Noire) 257.
Gorgier 191.
Gomer Glacier, the 309.
312. 313. 815.
— , Gorges du 314.
— Grat, the 312.
Gpmerenbach, the 100.
Goscbenen 100. 104.
— ReusB, the 100. 104.
— Thai, the 104.
— Alp, the 104.
Gosgen, Castle of 20.
Gossan 46.
Gotschna, the 338.
8. Gottardo, Sasso di 107.
Gotteron, Pont de 194.
— , Valine de 194.
St. Gotthard, the 107.
— , Pass of 107.
— , Hospice 107.
— , Railway 95.
— , Road 99. 104.
— , Tunnel 100.
Gottlieben 24. 29.
Gottmadingen 23.
Gottschallenberg89.92.94
Gotzis 406.
Gonille 299.
— , Mt. de la 277.
Gouillet 324.
Goule, La 188.
Goiiter, Dome du 258.
— , Aiguille du 253.
Gozsano 423.
Grabs 58.
Grafenort 113.
Graffeneire, the 277. 282.
Graggihiitte 122.
Graian Alps, the 270.
Grammont, the(Chablais)
232.
— (near Courmayenr)
see Cramont.
GranarioU, Alp 290.
Grancrou, Col de 271.
Grand Bornand 244.
Grand' Cemetta 324.
Grand Combin, the 277.
281. 282.
Grand Cornier 302. 304.
— , Col du 301.
- Crou, CoUe 271.
— Desert 281.
— Lac 324.
— McBveraa, the 222.230.
— Montoir 243.
- Moulin 310.
— Paradis 273.
— St. Pierre, the 272.
— Plateau 253.
— Saconnex 207.
— Saleve 206.
— Tournalin 310.
— Villard 228.
Grandate 484.
Grande Chermontane281.
— Combe 277.
— Dent 300.
— Eau, the 221. 225. 226.
Grand' Eyvie, the 270.
Grande Gorge, the 208.
— Sassiere, Aig. 266.
Grandes Roches, the 214.
Grandola 426.
Grands-Mulets, the 253.
Grandson 191.
Grandval 9.
Grand vaux 195.
Granfelden 9.
Grangen Bridge, the 295.
Granges 15. 284.
— Marnand 196.
— Neuves 280.
Granges, Les 258.
Granier, Mont 241.
Granois 225.
Gran-Serre, the 273.
Grapillon, Pas du 264.
Graplang, Ruins 44.
Grappli-Alp 58.
Grasonet 2o(i.
Grassenpass, the 115.
St. Grat 267. 271.
Gratli, the 121.
Gratschluchtgletscher 1 12.
Graubiinden, the Canton
332.
Graue Seeli, the 160.
(irau-Haupt, the 324.
Grauhomer, the 332.
Graun 402.
Grauson 271. 272.
— , Vallone di 271. 272.
Graustock, the 120.
Gravasalvas, Fuorcla di
370.
Gravedona 428.
Gravellona 290.
Greierz 227.
Greierz-Leiter, the 144.
Greifenbach, the 148.
Greifensee, the 40.
Greifenstein, Castle 327.
366.
Greina Pass, the 348.
Greinabach, the 350.
Grellingen 9.
Gremenz 303.
Grenchen 15.
Grengiols, Bridge of 295.
Grenoble 241.
Grenzach 21.
Grenz Glacier, the 314.
Greppen 91.
Gressan, 270.
Gressoney St. Jean 323.
— la Trinity 323.
Gressoney, Val 323.
Gr^-sur-Aix 240.
— sur-Is^re 242.
Gr^y, Cascade de 240.
Gretschins 328.
Greyerz 227.
Griaz, La 260.
— , Glacier de 247.
— , Nant de la 247. 260.
Grialetsch Glacier 339.
— , Val 339.
Griatschouls, Piz 388.
Gries Glacier, the(Valais)
296.
— (Clariden) 62. 110.
— (Todi) 63.
456
INDEX.
Ories Pass, the 396.
Grieset, the 00.
Oriessen 29.
Oriessenbach, the 109.
Zoo-
GriessengletschenthellG.
Origna, Monte 439.
Grignasoo ^34.
Grimbach VaUey 181.
Grimence 803.
Grimisuat 180.
Grimmenstein. Bains 49.
Grimmi, the 181.
Grimsel, the 170.
Grimselgrund, the 168.
Griaosel Hospice, the 168.
Grindelalp, the 160. 161.
Grindelwald 156.
— Glaciers 166.
, the Lower 156.
, the Upper 156.
Grins 403.
Griosch 393.
Grisch, Pis 359. 869.
Grisanche, the 274.
— , Val 278.
Grisons , Canton 382.
Grivola, the 371.
— Glacier, the 271.
Grodei 178.
Groisy-le-Plot 244.
GroUey 194.
Grond, Piz 347.
Gronda. Val 369.
Grono 365.
Gros-Jean, Tdte du 230.
Grosina, Val 399.
Grosio 399.
Grosotto 398.
Gros-Planay 227.
Grosshom, the 149.
Gross-Lauteraariiom 157.
Gross-Litzner, the 338.
Gross-Nesthom 177.
Gross-Schreckhorn, the
. 167.
Gross-Spannort, the 115.
Gross-Strnbel, the 172.
Grossthal, the 59. 80.
Grosstobel, the 843.
Gross- Vermnnt-Alp 405.
Gross - Wannehom 293.
Grotte aux F^es, the 232.
— aux Fours 191.
— du G^ant 310.
Grovello 297.
Grab 51.
Gruben 306.
Gruben-AIp, the 307.
Grubenberg, the 182.
Gruben Pass 387. 406.
Gruetta 264.
ariim, Alp396.
Griinenberg, the 146.
Grunenburg, the 136.
Griinhorn Hut 61.
Grunhornliicke, the
Griinsee. the 816.
Grusch 836.
Grdsisberg 136.
Grutli, see Riitli.
Gruywes 227.
Griiae 45.
Grynau, Castle 41.
Gryon 230.
Gryonne, the 336.
Gschwand'Alp 89.
Gsehwand^imad - Alp,
the 162.
Gspaltenhom, the 171.
Gapaltenhorn Glacier 150.
Gspon 308.
G8tad225.
Gstaldenbach, the 61.
Gsteig, near Interlaken
145.
— , Sarine Valley 225.
— , on the Simplon 289.
Gsteigthal, the 234.
Gsteigwyler 141. 145. 147.
Gsttibt-Bach, the 68.
Guarda 390.
Guardavall, Ruins 388.
Giida Glaeier 348.
Guert, Alp dil 3U.
Gdferhom, the 363.
Gufem-Alp 109.
Guferplatten-Alp 123.
Gugel, the 812.
Gugelberg, the 40.
Guggerloch, the 57.
GuggemuU, the 360.
Guggi Glacier 154. 167.
— Hut, the 164. 157.
Giiggisgrat, the 145.
Guin 192.
Gula, Ponte della 424.
Gumfluh, the 182.229.
Giimlingen 126. 136.
Gommegg, the 126.
Gummenalp 146.
Gummihom, the 146.
Gundlischwand 153.
Gungbach, the 188.
Gunten 189.
Guns on the Simplon 289.
— on the Lake of Walen-
stadt 48.
Gupf, the 62.
Guppen-AIp 60.
Guppen-Seeli 60.
Gurbenbach, the 146.
Gurbethal, the 187.
Gurf 297.
Giirgaletsch, the 367.
Gurin 413.
Gumigel, the Upper 137.
181.
Gumigelbad, the 137.
Gurro 417.
Gurschenstock, the 106.
Garten, the 134.
Gartepohl 405.
Gurtnellen 99. 100.
Guschenkopf, the 331.
Guschihom, ttie 295.
Guspis Valley 106.
GtLssfeldtsattel 386.
Giitsch, the(Laceme) 74.
— (Brunnen) 78.
Guttannen 167.
Guttenberg, Castle 338.
Giittingen 29.
GiiB; Piz 376.
Gwachtenhom, the 122.
GwarUer, the 190.
Gwatt 178. 180.
Gydisdorf 156.
Gyrenbad, the 46.
Gyrenspits, the 55.
Haag 328. 68.
Habkern 146.
— -Thai, the 146.
Habsburg, Buins 21.
— , Baths of 21.
— , Keu-, Ch&teau 91.
Hacken, the 94.
Hackenpass, the 94.
Haderlibriicke, the 10Gb
Hagendorf 13.
Hagletschalp, the 146.
Hagrigenbach, the 100.
Hagnau 37.
Hahnenberg, the 114.
Hahnemnoos, the 171.
Hahnenschritthorn 230^
Haibutzli, the 66.
Haldenstein 339.
— , Chalets 339.
Hallwyl 126.
— , Lake of 136.
Hals, the 156.
Haltenegg, the 136.
Hammetschwandjthe 117»
Handegg Falls 167.
Hangendgletscherhom,
the 163.
Hangbaum-Alp, the 80.
Hanggiessen. the 13.
Hanghom, the 116.
Hannig Alp, the 830. 831
Hard, Chiteau 34. 80.
Harder, the 144.
Hardermannli, the 144.
Hardwald, the 46.
Hasenbiihl, the 61.
Hasenmatt, the 16.
Hasenstock, the 80.
INDEX.
457
Hftsle 16. 124.
Haslen 56. 60.
Haslen See, the 68.
Hasli-Grund 166.
Hasli-Jungfrsu, the 160.
Hasli-Seheidegg, the 161.
HaAlL Valley of, or
HaaU Im WeiMland 163.
166.
Hadiberg, the 119. 163.
Haud^res 299.
HaueaBtein 12. 22.
— , the Obere 12.
— , Tunnel of 12.
Haupt, the 336.
Hanpter Alpe, the 843.
Hanptwell 46.
Hauriithi 70.
HavMck, the 170.
Hansen, on the Albis 68.
Haoastadt, Alp 164.
Hanaatock, the 66. 68.
Haut^OhatUlon 292.
Haute-Gombe, Monastery
238.
Haute-Luee 242.
Hauteville 240.
— , Gh&tean 216.
Hauta-Geneveys, Les 187.
Hiisingen 60.
Hedingen 68.
Heerbrugg 327.
Hegemalp 138.
Hehle Platte, the 168.
Heidegg 126.
Heidel Pass, the 44.
Heidelspitx, the 44.
Heiden 61.
Heidenthurm, the 118.
Heider See, the 368. 402.
Heiligenberg, Castle 29.
Helllgenschwendi 136.
HeiUghausle 96.
Heiligkreus 84. 124. 296.
Heiligkreuzcapelle 84.
Heimberg 136.
Heimwehfluh, the 148.
Heinrichsbad 46.
Heinsenberg 346. 365.
Heitibaeh, the 288.
Heldsberg 327.
8te. H€l4ne, the 273.
8te. Htfltee des MilU^res
242.
Helsenhom, the 296.
Hemlshofen 23. 24.
Hemmenitadt 23.
Hendsehlkon 18. 20.
Henggart 31.
Heiuiies 196.
Herbagires, Mont des 269.
Herberig, the 66.
Herbeftet, Gol de V 273.
Herbetet, Mont 273. 274.
Herblingen 23.
Herbrigen 306.
H^r^mence 296.
— , Val d' 298.
H^rens, Gol d' 302. 316.
— , Dent d' 316.
— , Val d' 298.
Hergiswyl 88. 117.
Heiiaau 46.
Hermance 231.
Herren-Alp, the 67.
Herrenberg, the 93.
Herrenriiti 114.
HerrUberg 38.
Herrsberg 27.
Hertenbiihl 168.
Hertenstein 76.
Herthen 21.
Herzogenbuchsee 16.
Hettlingen 81.
Heuboden Alp 58.
Heustrichbad, the 170.
Henthal, the 384.
Heutte, La 10.
Hezenkessel, the 171.
Hildisrieden 125.
HilAkon 126.
HUterflngen 138.
Hindelbank 16.
Hinterburg See 166.
Hinter-Frakmiind 88.
Hintergasse 404.
Hinter-Glamlsch. the 64.
Hintei^Meggen 81.
Hinterrhein, Villaee 363.
Hinterrhein,the3S.
Hintere Bdthe, the 122.
Hinterruck, the 42.
Hinter-Steinibach 66.
Hinter-Thierberg 122.
Hintei^Valseina 336.
Hinter^Waggithal 40.
Hinweil 41.
Hirli, the 358.
Hirondelles, Gol des 254.
Hirschberg, the Obere 63.
Hirschensprung, the 328.
Hirzboden 171.
Hirsel 70.
Hirzelhohe 70.
Hirzli, the 43.
Hitftkireh 128.
Hochbalen Glacier 321.
Hochberghom, the 363.
Hochdorf 126.
Hoch-Duean, the 341.
Hoch-Etxel, the 82.
— -Finstermiinz 406.
Hochflnh 28. 76. 87. 166.
286.
— Tunnel 87.
Hochgallmig 408.
Hoohkarpf , the 60.
Hochmaderer, the 406.
Hoch-Byalt. Buin 367.
Hochsteg, tne 309.
Hochstein, the 84.
Hochstuckli, the 96.
Hochwacht (Albis) 37.
— , nearBegensberg 46.
— , on the Zugerberg 68.
Hoch-Wtilflingen 46.
Hockenhom, the 177.
Hofersalpe, the 288.
Ho£fhungsau 341.
Hofstetten 168.
Hofvryl 11.
Hohberg Glaeier 316.
Hohbiihl, the 144.
Hohe Brisen,the80. 113.
Hohe Faulen, the 88. 88.
Hohe Kasten, the 63. 828.
Hohe Mesmer, the 56.
HoheLicht, the 814.323.
Hohenems 406.
Hohenklingen 24. 30.
Hohenrain 125.
Hohen-Bhatien 357.
HohenstoUen 120. 163.
Hohentrins, GasUe 846.
Hohentwiel 23.
Hohe-Bhonen, the 88. 82.
Hohe-Thurm, the 60.
Hohflaschen Alp 40.
Hohfluh 163.
Hohgant, the 146.
Hohgau, the 23.
Hohgleifen, the 177.
Hohle Gasse, the 81.
Hohlicht Hut 809. 816.
Hohsaas 289.
Hohsand, Alp 295.
Hohsand Glacier 294.
Hohstock, the 286.
Hohthaligrat, the 312.
Hohtbiirli Pass, the 161.
— Glubhut 161.
Hohwang Glacier 806.
Hoierberg, the 60.
Hoiren 60.
Holderbank 12.
Holdri, the 160.
HoUe, the 122. 368.
HoUenen 321.
Hollengraben, the 286.
Hollenhaken, the 17.
Hollenschlund, the 363.
Holstein 11.
Holzegg, the 97.
Homberg, the 126. 126.
Homburger Thai 12.
Hdne-Bard 269.
Honegg 117.
Hongrin, the 228.
Hopital 242.
458
DTDEX.
HopiUnx, Les 196.
Horbachgiitsch 69.
Hurben, Sohloss 30. 126.
Horbisthal, the 114.
Horgen 88. 40. 70.
Horger £gg, the 70.
Horn 29. 49.
Hornfeli Alp, the 106.
Hornli, the 316. 338.
Homussen 17.
Horn 116.
Hospenthal 106.
Hospitalet, V 2T1.
Hottingen 31.
Houche8, les 246. 260.
Hiiheli, the 126.
Huemoz 221.
Hiifl Alp, the 110.
Htifl Glacier, the 109. 110.
Htifi Pass, the 110.
Hugisattel, the 168.
Hiihnerstock 108. 111.
Hallenhorn, the 296.
Huadtchtipfi, the 120.
Hund8hom,the (ireat 161.
Hundsruoken, the 69.
Hiinegg, Chateau 136.
Hungistock, the 69.
Hiinibach, the 136.
Hunnenflnh, the 147.
HuBzenschwyl 20.
Hurden 39. 92.
Hurithal, the 63. 94.
Hdrnbetf . the 124.
Huteck 321.
Hutmad Alp 171.
Hutstock, the 116. 118.
Hutten 39. 92.
Htitten Alp 56.
Ibach 96.
Iberg 96.
Iberger Egg 95.
Ifferteu, see Yverdon.
Iffigen, Chalets 180.
Iffigen Fall, the 179.
Iffigensee, the 179.
Ignes, Case, des 299.
— , Glac. des 299.
Ilanz 347.
lies, Les 266.
Ilfis, the 124.
Ill, the 406. 406.
Illgrahen, the 286.
lUhorn, the 308.
Illiez, Val d^ 233.
Illklamm, the 406.
Illmenstein, Alp 167.
Im Boden 167.
— Gletsch 291.
— Grund 89. 166.
— Hof 168.
— Laad 67.
Im Ladt 296.
— Lerch, Chapel 320.
— Loch 66.
— Moos 296.
Imfeld 294.
St. Imler 187.
— , Valley of 187.
Immensee 90.
Immensee-KiisBiiseht 96.
Immenstaad 27.
St. Immerthal, see Imier.
In den Frjtnden, Alp 179.
In der Stopf 317.
Incino 434.
Inden 176.
Indren Glacier 314.
Ingenbohl 96. 97.
Inkwyl 16.
Inn, the 380. 388. 403. etc.
Innere Thunn, the 319.
Innerthal 40.
Innertkirchen 166.
Ins 197.
Inschi 99.
Inschi Tunnel 100.
Inschialpbach, the 99.
Intelvi Valley.the426.431.
Interlaken 140.
Intra 418.
Intragna 418.
— , Val 418.
Introbblo 428.
Introd, Chateau 273. 274
Introzso 428.
Inyergnan,Becca dell'378.
Invergneux, Passo d^ 271.
Ippollte Pass 314.
Ischa, Alp 841.
Ischgl 893.
Isella 822.
IseUe 289.
Iseltenalp, the 146.
Iseltwald 164. 166.
Isenaux 225.
Isenfltth 147.
Isenthal, the 80.
Is^re, the 241. 242.
Isia Persa 386.
Islas 376.
Isleten 80.
Islikon 45.
Isolain theBngadine 376.
— on the Splugpen 861.
Isola Bella 419.
— 8. Giovmni 418.
— Hadre 419.
— dei Peseatori 419.
— Superiore 419.
Isolaccia 396.
Isolella-Vanzone 424.
Isorno. Val 413.
Ispra 416.
Issime 328.
Issogne 268.
Itramen Alp 168.
Ivrea 270.
Jacobshad 46.
JMobBhubeli, the 136.
St. Jacob on the Bi» a
— (Isenthal) 80.
— (Unteiwalden) 117.
St. Jacques (Val de Lys)
323.
Jagerhom, the 314. Sia
Jageijoch^ the 814.
Jagemstocke, the 62.
Jagerritcken, the 318.
Jagigletscher. the 294.
Jaillet, Col 244.
Jaman, Dent de 228.
Jaman, Col de la Deat
de228.
Jamthal, the 390.
Jardin (Ghamonix) 25a
— (Argend^re) 266.
Jataalp, the 66.
Jaun 181.
Jaun, Valley of 182.
Javernaz, Croix de 222.
Jazzi, ChaleU de 318.
— , Cima di 313.
— Glacier, the 314. 31&
Jazzihom, the 290.
Jazzikopf, the 314.
Jazzi Pass, the 814.
St. Jean 803.
St. Jean d'Aulph 231.
— de Kaurienne 241.
— de Bixt 244.
Jenatz 337.
Jenlns 329.
Jenisberg 3A2.
St. Jeoire 266.
Joch Glacier, the 121.
Joch Pass, the 121.
Joderhom, the 319.
St. Johaun 40.
— am Plate 340.
— , Alt 67.
— , Neu 57.
Johannisberg, the 378.
Johannlsburg 40.
St. John, Church of 867.
Joli, Col 242. 281.
— Mont 246. 261.
Jolimont, the 184.
St Jon 392.
— , Pia 392.
Jona 41.
— , the 41. 45.
Jonswyl 67.
Jorasses, the 25a 254. 264.
Jorat, Mont 212.
Jordiis 213.
Jorgenberg 349.
INDEX.
459
S. Jorio, PaMo di 428.
Jori Glacier 338.
— Lakes 338.
Jorithal, the 338.
Jori-Fless Pass, the 838.
St. Joseph am Giuisbnm-
nen 10.
— on the Rigi 87.
St. Joseph, Convent (Mu-
otUthal) 63.
— ^ near Schwyz 97.
Jougne 198.
Jougnenas, tiiie 196.
Jouplane, Col de 231. 266.
Joux, La 256.
— , Col de 323.
— , Fort de 190. 198.
— , Lac de 198.
Jouxtens 214.
Joven^an 270.
Jovet, Plan 262.
Juchli, the 116. 118.
Juchlistock, the 118.
Juf 369.
Julia, the 368. 369.
St. Julien 238.
Julier, the 370.
Julier, Piz 370. 377.
Julier- Alp, the 370.
Jumeauz, Les 312.
— du Vallon 310.
Jungen 307.
Jung-Paa0, the 307.
Jungfrau, the 164. 293.
— , the Hasli- 160.
Jungfranflm, the 154.
168.
Jungfraujoch, the 168.
Jupiter, Plan de 279.
Jura, the 8. 14. 186. 187.
etc.
Jurten, see Mont Jorat.
Justisthal, the 139. 140.
Juvalta, Buin 356.
Xaferberg, the 44.
Kagiswyl 117.
Kaien, the 51.
Kaiser- Angst 16.
Kaisereggschlou, the 194.
Kaiserstuhl, the 80. 119.
— on the Bhine 46.
Kalchthal, the 122.
Kalfeuser Grat, the 66.
Kalfeuser Thai, the 44.
66. 332.
Kalkberg, the 36a
Kalkstock, the 98. 110.
Kalli, the 167. 168.
Kallnach 197.
Kaltbad, the (Rigi) 81. 82.
Kaltberg, Chalets of 307.
KaltbrunA 41.
Kaltbrunnenkehle 104.
106.
Kaltenbmnn 406.
Kaltwasser Glacier 287.
Rammer Alp 60.
Kammerstock, the 60.
KammU Alp 110.
Kammlildcke, tiie 110.
Kammlistock, the 110.
Kamor, the 53.
Kanal Glacier 348.
Kanalthal, the 348.
Kander, the 170. 172.
177. etc.
Kander Glacier, the 151.
Kandei^prund 172.
Kandersteg 172.
Kandle, the 180.
Kanzel, the, in the Bhine
valley 328.
Kanzli, near Brienz 164.
— , the, on theBigi82.
— , near Coire 333.
— , near Seelisberg 77.
— , Falls of Bhine 26.
— , Via Mala 367.
— , Weissenstein 16.
Kapfenberg, the 42.
Kappel on the AJbis 69.
— in the Toggenburg 57.
Karpfstock, the 69.60.
Karrenalp, the 64.
Karrenegg, th« 40.
Karrholen, the 146.
Karstelenbach, the 99.
108.
Kasbissea, the 84.
Kasern 64.
Kaserruck, the 44. 58.
Kastanienbaum 116.
Kastelen-Alp, the 89.
Kastelhorn, the 297.
Kastenbaum Bridge 296.
Kastris 346.
Katzensee.) the 18.
Katzensteig 64.
Katzenstrick 94.
Katzensagel, the 64.
Katzis 356.
Kaunserthal, the 403.
Kavestrau Grond 349.
Kehle Glacier 104. 122.
Kehlen Alp 122.
Kehlhof 38.
Kehrbachi 296.
Kehrsatz 137.
Kellerbach, the 100.
Kemptthal 45.
Kerenzen-Berg, Uke 43.
Kerns 117.
Kemwald, the 117.
jKerzers 197.
JKesch, Piz341. 36& S88.
Kessel, the 80. 98.
Kesseltobel, the 63.
Kesswyl 29.
Kestenberg, the 20.
Kiemen, Promont. 90.
Kienholz 164.
Kienthal 171.
— , the 171. 161.
Kiesen 135.
Kilchbeig 38. 40.
Kilchmoos 181.
Kill wan gen 18.
Kindlimord, Chapel 76.
Kinnbrticke, the 321.
Kinzig Pass, the 63.
Kippel 176.
Kirchalphom, the 363.
Kirchberg 27.
— , the 60. 64.
Kirchberg Tunnel 100.
Kirchenthumen 137.
Kirchet, the 166.
Kirchspalt Glacier 150.
Kirel, the 181.
Kistenband, the 62.
Kistenpass, the 62.
Kistenstein, the 343.
Kistenstockli, the 62.
St. Klaus 118.
Klausen-Alp 62.
Klausen-Pass, the 62.
Klein-Basel 3.
- -Buin, the 338.
Lohner, the 172.
— -Spannort 116.
Klein-Thai, the, in the
Canton of Glarus 61. 66.
, in the Canton of
Uri80.
Kleinthalfirn, the 80. 116.
Klenenhom, the 287.
Klimsenhom, the 89.
Klingnau 21.
Klonthal, the 64. 59.
Klonthaler See, the 64. 69.
Klosterberg Bridge 64.
KldsterU (Rigi) 83.
Klosters 337.
Klostersche Stiitz 338.
Klosterthal, the 404.
Klus in the Gastem Valley
178. 173.
— in the Jura 12.
— in the Pratigau 336.
— near Weissenbui^ 181.
Knieri, the 113.
Knonau 09.
Koblenz 45.
Kohlerenschlacht 136.
Kohlgrtibli 65.
Kohlthal, the 77
Kollbrunn 45.
KoUiken 19.
460
INDBX.
Konigin, Alp 296.
Konigsfelden 17.
Konolflngen 134.
Kopfenjtock, the 92.
Krabel 83.
Kr&belwand, the 88.
Kradolf 46.
Krahenwald 61.
Kransbergfirn, the 152.
Krattigen 140. 171.
Krauchthal, the 66.
Krayalp, the 66. 68.
Krayalpflrst 66.
Krasem 67.
Krazembriicke 47.
Krasem Pass^Jthe 67. 46.
Kreuz. the 837.
Kreuzberg, the 391.
Kreuzboden, the 226.
Kreuzlingen 29.
Kreuztrichter, the 75.
Kriegalp Pass, the 296.
Kiiens 71. 74.
Kriensbach, the 116.
Krinnen, the 179. 225.
Krinnenboden, the 160.
Krinnenflm, tike 161.
Krisiloch, the 89.
Kronbflhl 48.
Kronlet, the 96.
Krotten^tein, Ruins 399.
Kruibach Tobel, the 140.
Krummbach, the 179. 288.
289.
Krummenau 67.
Kriizli Pass, the 110. 361.
KiibUbad. the 140.
Kiiblis 837.
Kiihalpthal, the 341. 342.
Kiihalphorn, the 341.
Kiihbodengletscher 292.
Eiihbodenhorn 107. 292.
Kdhlauenengletscher.the
154.
Ktlhthal Alp 60.
Kummenalp, the 177.
Kummenberg, the 406.
Kunkels 332.
Kunkels Pass, the 332.
Ktipfen 344.
Kurfirsten, the 42.
Eurzegg 48. 52.
Kurzenburg, the 48.
Kiisnacht on the Lake of
Zurich 88.
Kiissenberg, Castle of 22.
Kiissnacht on the Lake of
Lucerne 91.
Kyburg, the 46.
La Balmaz 223.
— Balme 261.
La Banna (Val d' H^t^
mence) 281. 298.
(Valtounianehe)824.
— Batiaz 223.
— Belotte 231.
— Bergerie 211.
— Blonni^re 243.
— Chaine 190.
— Ghambre 241.
— Ghapelle 261.
— Ghaud, Plan 279.
— Ghaux-de-Fonds 187.
— Ghdne 229.
— Chi^saz 216.
— Glusaz 244.
— Gluse near Aoeta 279.
in the Jura 190. 196.
— Gombaliaz 229.
— Conversion 195.
— Cote 211. 220.
— Croix 226. 268.
— Fille-Dieu, Nunnery
194.
— PoUy 266.
— Foppa 332.
— Forclas 221.
— Garde 299.
— Giettas 244.
— Oitte 262.
— Goule 188.
— Griaz 260.
— Heutte 10.
— Joux 266.
— Layaz 225.
— Lteherette 229.
— Luette 282.
— Lume. Tunnel 108.
— Mola 251.
— Montas 299.
— M otta 396.
— Pischa 370.
Pleine 238.
— Poia 270.
— Porta 372.
— Pousaz 221.
— Praz 241.
— Bippe 211.
— Roehe'Sur-Foron 244.
— Rosa 396.
— Sage 299. 302.
— Salle 242. 266. 282.
— Sarre, Castle 266.
— Sarraz 192. 197.
— Sauge 197.
— Saxe, Baths 263.
— Seiloz 266.
— Stretta 394.
— Tapiaz 262.
— T6ne 186.
— Thuile 266. 274.
— Tine 228.
Tonto 396.
— Tour dePeils 216. 220.
La Tour de Tr§me 227.
— TrSme 227.
— Turr 358.
— Vachey 264.
— Vaux 214. 230.
— ViUette 261.
Laaswald, the 137.
Laax347.
Laaxer Tobel 347.
Lac Noir 194. 221. 378.
Lacerandes , Pointe des
2rr9.
Lachat, Mont 260.
Lachen 40.
Ladis, Baths 406.
Ladsteg, the 296.
Lagalb, Piz 395.
Lagant, Alp 404.
Lager, Chalet 160.
Lagemgebirg, the 18. 45.
Laghetto, Passo di 412.
Laglietto 322.
Laglio 431.
Lago, Cima di 368.
— , Alpe del 412.
Lago Bianco 394.
— Magglore 414.
— Hinore 394.
— Nero 273. 394.
— Spalmo, Gima di 995.
Lagone, Val 395.
Lagrey, Piz 370. 376.
Laiblau, Pis 361.
Laisch, Alp 391.
Lambro, the 484.
Lammerbach, the 100.
Lammerbach-Alp, the
Upper 110.
Lammem Glacier, the
172. 174. 179.
Lammemjoch 172. 176.
179.
Lamone 408.
Lampenberg 11.
Lampertsch Alp 348.
Lancebranlette, the 266.
Laneettes, Glacier des
261.
Lancey 281.
Landeek 403.
Landenberg. the 118.
Landeron 184.
Landquart 329. 836.
— , the 329.
Landwasser, the Dayoser
339. 341. 366.
Langen 404.
Langenbruck 12.
Langendorf 14.
Langenegg 62.
Langenegg Alp 66. 84.
Lange Fluh, the 320. 831.
Langennuitt 908.
^
LangeiiBteiii 44.
Langenthal 16.
LangiBgnt, the 112.
Langnau 124.
Langneibad, the 137.
Langtanferer Thai 403.
Lang-Thai, the 296.
Languard, Pis 884.
Langwies 343.
Lank fi6.
Lanna 299.
Lanflch 368.
Lanterna, Val 386. 397.
Lansada 386. 397.
LanKo 436.
Laquinbach, the 286.
Laquin Valley 289.
Laqulnhom, the 288.
Laquligoch, the 288.
Laret, Ober and Unter
339.
Laret, the Alp 379. 392.
Larei-Hohe 376.
Laretto, Alp 372.
Lario, Lake 427.
Lasa, Alp 332.
Laschadura, Val 389.
Lasnigo 434.
Lat, PiE 396.
Latelhorn, the 290. 320.
Laternser Thai, the 406.
Latseh 366.
Latecher Kulm, the 366.
Lattenfirn, the 62.
Latterbach 181.
Laubegg Alp 44.
Laubeggstalden, the 182.
Laubergrat, the 118.
Laaberhom, the 155.
Lauchbtihlhiitte 161.
Laacherhom, the 146.
Lauehernalp 177.
LancherspitEe, the 177.
Landegg, Bains 403.
Lauenen 120. 225.
— , Valley of 225.
Laufbodenhom 178. 179.
Lanfelfingen 12.
Laufen, Schlo«8 26.
Laufen on the Bin 9.
Laufenbnrg 22.
Lauibach, the 119. 148.
226.
Laoinenthor, the 162.
Laupen 192.
St. Lanrent 244. 276.
Lanreneenbad 12. 20.
LauBanne 212.
Lanaen 12.
LauUret 296.
Lauteraar Qlacier 168.
168.
Lautenukrjoch 168. 169.
INDEX.
Lauterbninnen 147.
Scheidegg, the 165.
Lauterthal, tiie 57.
Lautrach 406.
Laaion, the 272.
— , Colle di 272.
Layal, Pont de 271.
Lavancher 260. 266.
Lavas, Val 360.
Lavazjoch, the 360.
Lavedo. Promontory 431.
Laveggio, the 411.
Lavena 426.
Laveno 416. 417.
Laver, Val 398.
Lavertezso 412.
Lavey, Baths of 224.
Lavez Alp 314.
Lavez Valley 828.
Lavin 389.
Layina, Pnnta 272.
Laviner Joch 338.
LaYinnoz, Val 338. 389.
LaTiram Pass 3S$.
— , Piz 388.
— , Val 388.
Lavizsara, Val 414.
LaToi, the 346.
Lavorgo 102.
Lax m
Layaz, La 225.
Lazza, Alp 332. «
Le Basset 216. 188.
— Biot 231.
— Borgeau 276.
— Bourget 240.
— Brassus 198. 211.
— Breuil 310.
— Brocard 276.
— Calllet 249.
— Gh&telard 246.
— Crftt 281.
— Crey 262.
— Fay 268.
— Fayet 346.
— FouiUy 246. 247.
— Lac 188.
— Lieu 198. 211.
— Locle 188.
— Money 271.
— Hontet 232.
— Houret 194.
— Plan 226.
— Pont 198. 211.
- Praz Conduit 263.
- Pr<$328.
— Prese 396.
— Bivage 307.
— Sepey 326.
— Sentier 196.
— Tonr 359.
— ViUalr 364.
Lebendun Lake 294.
461
Lecco 433.
— , Lago di 433.
Lechaud, Col 334. 364.
266.
L^chelles 194.
Ucherette, La 329.
Leckihom, the 106.
Leckipass, the 106.
Led, Piz 376.
Leggia 366.
Leggiuno 416.
St. L^gier 316.
Leggistein Tunnel 100.
Leggiuno 416.
Legnano 431.
Legnone. Monte 438.
Legnoncmo, Monte 438.
Leguana, brook 406.
Lei, VaUe di 369.
Leidboden 343.
Leimboden, the 130.
Leisse, the 340. 341.
Leissigen 140. 171.
Leiatkamm, the 43.
Leitergrat, the 171.
Lej AlY 394.
— Nair 394.
Lejs, Piz dels 384.
L^man, Lac 309.
Lemenc 341.
Lemo, Monte 410.
Lenk 178.
Lenno 431.
Lens, Pas du 376.
Lenta-Liicke, the 348.
Lenta Valley 348.
Lenz 344. 366. 368.
Lenzbuig 136. 30.
Lenzer Heide, the 368.
— Horn, the 368.
St. Leonard 384. 396.
Leone, Monte 288. 289.
Lerch 309.
— , Chapel 330.
Lerow 140.
Les Agettes 298.
— Allamans 234.
— Allinges 331.
— Ayants 328.
— Barats 225.
— Bois 260. 265.
— Bossons 263.
— Brenets 184.
— Ghables 261.
- Chapieux 263.
— Charmettes 341.
— Chavans 268.
— Ghosalets 256.
— Contamines 261.
■ Convers 187.
— Crdtes 216. 226.
— Eaux-Vives 307.
— Echevenoz 279.
462
BmEX.
Les FoUat&ires 234.
— Foumeaux 310.
— 6enevey8-8ur-Coff-
ranc 187.
— Gets 231.
— Granges 258.
— Hauts-Geneveys 187.
— Hopitaux 198.
— Houches 246. 247. 260.
— lies 256.
— Monties, near Servoz
246.
— Montets, near Tr^le-
champ 2G6.
— Mosses 229.
— Mossons 261.
— MouUles 249.
— Moulins 228.
— Ouches 246. 247. 260.
— Pitons 208.
— Planches 217. 218.
— Planchettes 188.
— Plans (near Bex) 222.
— Pontis 303.
— Ponts 260.
— Praz 260. 255.
— Rappes 258.
— Refrains 188.
— Rousses 211.
— Tines 250. 255.
— Tsours 252.
— Vadalles 227.
— Valettes (Hartignyt
275.
— Vallettefl (Lake of Ge-
neva) 231.
— Verriferes 190.
— Villards 244.
Lesa 420.
Leschaux, Col de 243.
— , Glacier de 249.
Le8:na, the 398. 428.
Letze, the 94.
Leuchi, Chalets of 264.
Leuerfall, the 54.
Leuggelbach 60.
Leuggelstock, the 60. ■>
Leak 176. 284.
— , Baths of 175.
— , Station of 284.
Levanna, Hte. 274.
Leveno, Alp 410.
Leventina, the 102.
Leviona, Chalets 272.
Levo 421.
Leysin 221. 226.
Lezzeno 431.
Liappey 282. 298. 300.
Lichtenberg, GasUe 402.
Lichtensteig 67.
Liddes 276.
Liechtenstein, Ruins 328.
329.
Liechtenstein, Princip. of
388.
Lieli 125.
Lielpe, Alp 414.
Li&ne, the 284.
Liema 432.
Liesberg 9.
Liestal 11.
Lietingen 9.
Lieu, Le 196. 211.
Ligerz 184.
Lignerolles 196.
LUlianes 323.
Limmat, the 18. 32. 44 etc.
Limmem-Bach, the 61.
Limmem Glacier 6Q.
Limmernthal, the ^.
Limonta 423.
Linard, Pis 390.
Lindau 49.
Lindenberg. the 126.
Lindenhof 49.
Linth, the 38. 63. 59.
Linth Canal, the 40. 41.
— , Colony of the 43.
Linththal 60.
Linty, Gapanna 314. 323.
Lion, Col da 314. 316.
— , TSte du 310.
Lipplisbiihl 63.
Liro, the 361. 362.
Lischanna, Piz 392.
Lischanna, Vadret 392.
Liseme, the 230. 283.
Litta, Villa 428.
Littau 123.
Litzenriiti 344.
Litzner, the 338.
Liverogne 266.
Livigno 388. 399.
Livinen-Thal, the 102.
Livonea, Col de 268.
Livrio, Val 397.
Locana 275.
— , Val 272. 274.
Locarno 412.
— , Lake of 415.
Loccie, Col delle 322.
Loccie Glacier 322.
Lochau 406.
Lochbach, the 111.
Lochberg, the 104.
Lochlibetter 56.
Lochmuhle 147.
LochUpass, the 346.
Locle, Le 188.
Loco 413.
Loderio 355.
Loeche-Ville 176.
les-Bains 175.
Souste 284.
LofTelhom, the 292.
Loges, Col des 187.
Loggio 426.
Lognan, P»t. de 356.
Lohlen Pass 352.
Lohner, the 172.
Loita 421.
Lomazzo 434.
Lombach, the Ul. 144.
Lombard 276.
Lombardoi, Alp 372.
Lombraoro, Alp 290.
Lommiswyl 15.
Lona, Pas de 302.
London, the 238.
Longacqua 395.
Longirod 212.
Longone 434.
Lontsch, the 57. 65.
Lonza, the 176.
Lopper, the 116, 117.
Lora, Punta di 272.
Lorciolo 349.
St.'Lorenz, Chapel 366.
Lorenzhom. the 363. '
Lorze, the 69. 70. 94.
Losis, Alp 44.
Losone 413.
Lostallo 364.
Lostorf 13. 20.
Lotschen Glacier 177. 294.
Lotschenliicke 177. 297.
Lotschen-Pass, the 177.
Lotschenthal, the 176.
Lottigna 365.
Lou^che, see Loeehe.
Lourtier 280.
Louvie, Col de 281.
Lovagny 240.
Lovenex. Lake of 232.
Loveno 429.
Lowenbach, the 289.
Lowenberg, Castle 347.
Lowerz 96.
— , Island of 96.
— , Lake of 96.
Lii 389. 392.
Luan, Alp 221.
St. Luc 305.
St. Luce 212.
Lucel 299. 300.
Lucendro, Pis 107.
-, Alp 107.
— , Lake of 106.
— , Passo di 108.
Lucens 196.
Lucerne 70.
— , Lake of 74.
Luchsingen 60.
S. Lucio, Pass of 410.
St. Lucius, Chapel of
335.
Ludiano 356.
Ludretikon 38.
Ludwigsbohe, the 813.
□axBx.
463
Lueg, tbe 16.
Laette 299.
— , La 282.
Lugano 408. 426.
— , Lake of 42&. 411.
Lugete 92.
Lugnetz Valley, the 34a
Lngrin 338.
Lnino 415. 417.
Luisettes, the 277.
Luifin, the 258.
Lukmanier, the 354.
Lumbreda, Pie 364.
Lumbrein 348.
Lomino 365.
Lumpegnia, Alp 350.
Luna, Mte. 332.
Lliner See, the 404.
Lungenstatz 109.
Lungem 119.
LuBgem, Lake of 119.
Lunghino, Pia 375.
— , Lake 375.
— , Fuorcla di 359. 375.
Lunschania 348.
Lurate 434.
Liirlebad 333.
Liisch, Lake of 357.
Liischerz 184.
Luseney. Bee de 268.
Liisgen-Alp 286.
Lussery 197.
Lussai 392.
LustbtihL the 144.
Lnterbaeh 13.
Liitholdsmatt 89.
Liitisburg 57.
Lutry 195. 214. 220.
Lutschenthal, the 153.
Liitschine , the 141. 147.
164 etc.
— , Gorge of the 156.
-, the Black 147. 153.
156.
— , the Sefinen 150.
— , the White 147. 150.
153.
Liitze], the 9.
Liitzelau 75.
— , Island of 39. 40.
Lutzelfliih 16.
Luvini, vaia 409.
Luvino 417.
Lnvifl 347.
Luzein 337.
St. Luzienberg, the 328.
St. Luziensteig, the 328.
331.
Luawme, Val 349.
Lyrerose, Glacier de 282.
300.
Lys, Cort 323.
— , Dent de 238.
Lys Glacier, the 814. 328.
Lys Joch, the 314. 323.
Lyskamm, the 313. 323.
Lyskammhiitte , the 323.
Lys Valley, the 369. 333.
Lyss 11. 197.
Lyssach 16.
Maasplankjoch 104. 122.
Maccagno 415. 417.
Macolin 11.
Hacugnaga 317.
— Glacier 318. 322.
Hacun 389.
Madatsch Glacier, the 401
Spitz, the 401.
Maderanerthal, the 108.
Madesimo 361.
— , the 360. 361.
— , Passo di 360.
Madlain, Piz 393.
Madlenerhana 406.
Madonna di S. Martino
4ia
— del. Monte 434.
— della Bocdola 423.
— di Campagna 418.
— del Sasso on theLago
Maggiore 412.
near the Lake of
Orta 423.
Madonna di Tirano 397.
Madrano 101.
Madrera, Val 432.
Madriser Thai 359.
Madrishorn. the 338.
Madulein 388.
Magadino 415. 416.
Magenhorn, the 288.
Magenwyl 20.
Maggia 413.
Maggia, the 412. 413.416.
Maggia, Val 413.
Maggiore, Lago 414.
Magglingen 11.
Magisalp, the 162.
Magland 245.
Magliasina, Val 410.
Magliaso 4lO. 435.
Magnin, Forest of 259.
Magreglio 434.
Maienfeld 328. 331.
Maienwand, the 170.
Maierhof 348.
Maigels-Pass 353.
— , Val 353.
Maikirch 197.
Mainau, Island of 29.
Maira, the 362. 371.
Maison du Diable 239.
Maisons Blanches , the
276.
- — , Col dea 277. 382.
Majing Glacier, the 176.
Majinghom, the 177.
Majoria, Castle 384.
Maladers 343.
Malans 329.
Malanser Alp 66.
St. Malchua, Chapel 84.
Malenco, Val 375. 397.
Malero, the 375. 397.
Malesco 413. 417.
Malgrate 432.
Malix 367.
Malleray 10.
Mallet, Mont 250.
Malnate 434.
Maloggia, or
Maloja, the 374. 372.
Mais 403.
Malser Heide, the 403.
Malters 1!^.
MalvagUa 355.
S. Mamette 410. 433.
Mammern 24. 30.
Manaa 393.
Mandello 432.
Mangbach, the 405.
Maniggrund Valley 181.
Manaaa, the 336.
Mannedorf 38.
Mannen, the 66.
Mannenbach 24. 30.
Mannenberg, Castle 182.
MannUchen 155. 157.
Mapello 433.
Maran 344.
Marangun, Alp 338.
Marbach 24. SO.
Marbrdes, Aiguilles 253.
St. Marcel 368. 273.
— , Col de 272.
— , Vallone di 273.
Marcellaz 240.
Marcheiruz, Col de 198.
212.
Marchhorn, the 297.
Marchino, Villa 409.
Marcio, Pizzo 359.
S. Marco 289.
— , Passo di 396.
Marenberge, the 62.
Marengo, Pas de 277.
St. Margarethen 327. 331.
St. Margarethenkapf 406.
S. Margherita, Capanna
374.
Margna, Piz della 376.
Margorabbia, the 415.
417.
Margozzolo, Mte. 431.
S. Maria di Castello 103.
— Maggiore 413.
— della Salute, Chapel
104.
464
INDEX.
8.]UrUdel8oeeor8o431.}1lArtiji8loch, the a& 346.
St. lUuria der Bngeln, Martinstobel, the 4& 61
Monastery 67.
S. Karia, Hospice on the
Lukmanier 364.
— in the Hiinsterthal
389. iOX 402.
— in Val Sesia 322. 424.
— on the StelTio 400.
— sum Schnee 83.
8onnenberg, Chapel
77.
— , Muot 376.
— , Val 364.
Mariahilf, Chapel 106.
— , Nunnery of 96.
Marie, Pont de 247.
Marienberg on the Adige
408.
— near Rorschach 48.
Marienthal, the 124.
Marignler 246.
Marin 186.
Marinelli, Capanna (Mte.
Rosa) 318.
— (Bemina) 387. 397.
Marjelen Alp 293.
Marjelen See, the 298.
Markelfingen 23.
Marlens 243.
MarlioB 239.
Marly 194.
Marmor4, Muot 376.
Marmorera 369.
Mamand 196.
Mamein 336.
Marogg^ 411.
Mars 298.
Marscholhom, the 363.
364.
Marsoel 334.
Marstetten 46.
Marthalen 31.
Martigny 224.
Martigny-Bourg 224. 268.
276.
St. Martin in the Kalfeu*
ser Thai 44. 66.
— in the Lugnets Valley
347. 248.
— (Val d'Hdrens) 299.
— near Aosta 270.
— near Sallanches 246.
— Charvonnez 244.
Martinach, see Martigny.
S. Marttno (Val Masino)
368.
— (near Lugano) 409. 411.
426.
— , Forcella di 372. 398.
— , Madonna di 430.
— , Sasso 480.
Martinsbruck 393.
Mary, Mt. 280.
Masein 366.
Masekbach, the
Masino 396.
— , Val 398.
Masone 290. 317.
Massa, the 296.
Massagno 408. 410.
Massongez 234.
Mastallone, Val 424.
Masucdo, Pis 398.
Matan 336.
Mathon 368.
Matmoire, the 268. 310.
Matran 194.
Matt 66. 66.
Mattalp, the 89.
Matten near Interlaken
142. 147.
— near Lanterbmnnen
161.
— in the Upper Slm-
menthal 178. 181.
Mattenalp, the 166.
Matterhom, the 316.
, the IdtUe 813.
Matterjoch, the 309. 318.
Mattervisp, the 312. 316.
Matthom, the 88.
Mattmarkalp, the 319.
Mattmarksee, the 319.
Mattmark Weissthor 319.
Mattwald Glacier 288. 289.
Mattwaldhom, the 288.
Maudit, Mont 268.
Mauensee, the 19.
Mauremont, the 192.
St. Maurice 222.
Maurienne, the 241.
S. Maurizio, Monte 433.
Mauvais Pas 260. 267.
Mauvoisin 281.
Mayen, la Tour de 221.
Mayenbach, see Meien-
bach.
Mayenfeld 328.
Maszo 398.
Medel, Piz 348. 364.
Model, Momp^ 360.
Medels 362.
Medelser Glacier, the 360
364.
Medelser Thai, the 363.
Medjekopf, the 338.
Meer Glacier 66.
Meeralp, the 66.
Meersburg 27.
Migkve 242.
Meggen 91.
Meggenhom, the 76. 91.
Meggiagra-Tnnnel 408.
Meglisalp, the 56.
Mehlbach, the 117.
Meiden 306.
Meidenalp, the 906.
Meiden Pass, the 306.
Meidenhom, the 906.
Melen 123.
Meienbaeh, the 122.
Meienkreus Tunnel 100.
Meienreuss, the 110. 123.
Meienschans, the 123.
Meienthal. the 128.
Meierhof 340.
Meilen 38.
MeiUeret, Pointe de 226.
Meillerie 232. 288.
Meina 420.
Meina, Col de la 288. 299.
St. Meinrad, Chapel 92.
Meiringen IGQ.
Meisterschwanden 126,
Meitschlingen 99.
Melch-Aa, the 118.
Melchberg, Alp 84.
Melchsee, the 118. 120.
Melchthal, the 118.
Meldegg, the 48. 337.
Meleza, the 413.
Melide 411. 436.
Meilen, Piz 61.
Mellichen Glader 819.
— Valley 319. 321.
Mellig, the 320.
Mellingen 20.
Mello, Val di 372. 376. 398.
Mels 44.
Melzi, Villa 430.
Menaggio 439.
Mendrisio 411.
Menoge, the 245.
Menthon, Chateau 248.
Mentne, the 194.
Meniberg, the IS.
Mensikon 126.
Menzingen 89. 92.
Mer de Glace, the, near
Chamoniz 260.
— , near Grindelwald 157.
Mera, the 363. 371.
Mera, Val 896.
Merate 433.
Merdesson, the 299.
Mergoscia 412.
Meigozzo, Lago di 291.
Meraozzolo, Mte. 421.
M^rfb^ 298.
Mertgnier, the 276.
Merishausen 23.
Merjelen Alp, the 298.
— Bee, the W3.
Merlenalp, the 43. 69.
Merligen 140.
Meschino 886.
INDEX.
465
Mesmer, the 54.
Meaocco 364.
Mesolcina, Val 364.
Meaonclea, Ck)l de 273.
Measemalp, the 294.
Hettelbach Fall 63.
Mettelhom, the 316.
Mettenberg, the 157.
Mettlen 66.
Mettlenalp 124. 154. 166.
Hettmenstetten 68.
Meyrin 238.
Hezaun, Piz 388.
Mezdi, Piz 389.
Mezza Selva 337.
Mezzegra 481.
Mezzem, Piz 388.
Mezzola, Lago di 362.
Miage, Glacier de 253.
261. 263.
— , Col de 264.
Miaaino 422. 423.
St. Michael, Chapel of 82.
St. Michel 241.
St. Michel, Piz 366. 36a
S. Michele 297.
Midi, Aiguille da 246.
250. 252. 253.
Midi, Dent du 233.
Mi^ge 284.
Migiandone 290.
Milan 435.
Milar, Val 351.
Milchbache, the 109.
Milchbachloch, the 156.
Milden 196.
Milez 352.
Min^, Mont 301. 3U2.
Min^, Glacier dn Mt. 301.
Minestra, Ponte 395.
Minger, Val 392.
Minor, Val 394.
Minschun, Piz 390. 392.
Miolans, Castle 241.
Mionnaz, the 195.
Misaum, Alp 383.
Mischabel, the 312. 320.
Mischabel Joch. the 321.
Misox, Ruins 364.
Misoxer Thai, the 364.
Mission 303.
Mitlodi 69.
Mittagflah, the 181.
Mittaggiipu, the 88.
Mittaghom, the 152. 180.
820. 364.
Mittagfltock, the 98.
Mittel-Glamisch, the 64.
Mittelhom, the 160.
Mittel-Bhein, the 360.363.
MittelzeU 23.
Mittenberg, the 336. 343.
Mitter-See, the 402.
Mitihal 176.
Mittholz 172.
Moanda, Col della 322.422.
Modane 241.
Moesa, the 103. 364.
Moesola, Lago 363.
— , Piz 364.
Moeveran, Grand 222. 230.
Hogno 414.
Mohlin 17.
Hoine, Aiguille du 250.
Moi^) ()lac. de 301. 308.
— , Val 302.
Mola, La 251.
Hole, the 245.
MoMson. the 227.
Molina 365.
Molinara, Castle 329.
Molincero Tunnel 406.
Molins 369.
MolUa 424.
Mollis 68.
Mols 43.
Moltrasio 431.
Mombello 416.
Morning, the 304. 316.
— Pass, the 305. 816.
Momo 423.
Mompe Medel 360.
-— Tavetsch 361.
Monbaron, Colma di 270.
Monbiel 338.
Monch, the 167.
— , the Schwarze 149.
Monchalpthal, the 338.
Monchenstein 8.
Monchhutte 154. 158.
Monch Joch, the 168.
Moncodine, the 429.
Moncorv^, Alp 273.
— Glacier 273.
Mondadizza 399.
Mondange 273.
Mondelli Pass, the 317.
Mondin, Piz 393. 403.
Mondloch, the 90.
Money, le 271.
— , CoUe 271.
Monica, the 384.
Monnaie, Galerie de la
275.
Monn'etier 208. 244.
Monschia, the 883. 3S4.
386.
Monstein in the Davos
340.
— on the Rhine 327.
Mont, Col du 274.
Montagna s. Heinzenberg.
Montagnaia, Col de 268.
Montagnier 280.
Montaillenr 242.
Babuekxk, Switzerland. 12th Edition.
Montalto Dora 270.
Montandayn^, Glacier de
273.
— , Becca de 274.
Montanvert 249.
Montavon, the 406.
Montaz, la 299.
Montbarry 227.
Montbenon, the 214.
Mont Blanc, the 262.
Mont Blanc de Seilon
282.
— du Tacul 252. 253.
— , Pav. du 263. 264.
— , Rocher du 263.
Montbovon 228.
Mont Brul^, Col du 301.
316.
Montbrun, the 225.
Mont Durand, Glacier du
281. 282.
Monties, les 246.
Montellier 197.
Montenvert, the 249.
Monterascio-Pass 349.
Monterone, Mte. 421.
Monteatrutto 269.
Montet, Le 222.
Montets, Col des 266.
Montdvraz 194.
Monthey 283.
Montjoie Valley, the 246.
261.
Mont Joli 261.
Mont Jovet 269.
-, deOle and castle of
269.
Montmajeur 274.
Montmelian 241.
Montorfano 291. 433.
Montoz, the 10.
Montreux 217. 220.
— , Bale de 217. 218.
Montriond 231.
Montrottier 240.
Mont Rouge, Col du 282.
300.
Mont Ruan, Glacier du
233.
Montoalvens, Ruins 182.
Monvalle 416.
Monza 435.
Moos 170. 369.
Moosburg, the 29.
Mora, Val 399.
Morast 296.
Morat 197.
— , Lake of 196.
Morbegno 398.
Morcles 223.
— , Dent de 222. 223.
Morcote 425.
Morel 296.
30
466
INDEX.
Morgarten 94.
Morge, the, in Savoy 232.
— , the, in the Cant, of
Valais 225. 230. 283.
Morgen, the 317.
MorgenDergbom, the 146.
171.
Morgenhorn, the 171. 178.
Morgea 212. 220.
— , the 220.
Morgeten-AIp, the 181.
Horgez 266.
Morgin 238.
Moriana, Col della 424.
Morigen 184.
Horignone 399.
— , Serra di 899.
St. MoritB (Engad.) 378.
— , Bathfl of 3T7.
— , Lake of 378.
— (Lugnetz Valley) 348.
Hornex 206. 245.
Horo, Monte 318.
Morobbia, Val 410.
Horrissen 347.
Horschach 78.
Horschwyl 48.
Mort, Mont 279.
— , Moulin de la 188i
Morteau 188.
Mortal, Piz 8S5.
— , Clnb Hut 888.
MorteratschjPiz 885.
— Glacier 8B2.
Mortirolo, Monte 397.
Monine 231. 265.
Mosen 126.
Mosses, Les 229.
Mossons, Les 251.
Motier 197.
Motiers 189.
— , Grotte de 190.
Motta, La 895.
Mottelischloss, the 48.
Mottelon 231.
Motterone, Monte 421.
Mottets 2S2.
Motto 355.
Moud, Ck>Ue di 822. 422.
Moudon 196.
Mouilles, Les 249.
Moulins, Les 228.
Monntet, Le 804.
Mouret, Le 194.
Moutier in the Jura 9.
— , Val 9.
Moil tiers en Tarentaise
242.
Mouton, Tdte du 805.
Mouxy 204.
Muccia Glacier, the 365
Muggio 411.
Miihlau 20.
Muhlbach, the, near
Briens 164.
— near Meiringen 163.
Muhlebachthal 43. 66.
Muhlefluh Tnnnel 88.
Miihlehom 43.
Muhlen 369.
Mtthlerain 833.
Miihlestalden 121.
Muhlethal, the 120. 121.
Miihle Tunnel 100.
Mflhllbach on the Faul-
horn 159.
Miihltobel, the 20.
Miihren Tunnel 100.
Mulets, the Grands 258.
— , the Petits 253.
Miilinen in the Kander
Thai 170.
— near Interlaken 146.
147.
MaUns 346.
Mulkerblatt, the 179.
Mullheim 45.
Mumpf 17.
Munchen-Buchsee 11.
Mundaun, Pis 347.
Munoth, Castle 22.
Munsingen 135.
Miinster on the Birs 9.
— on the Lake of Con-
stance 23.
-, Grisons 403.
— , Valais 292.
Miinsterlingen 29.
MunsterOial, theCGrisons)
389. 402.
— in the Jura 8. 9.
Munteriitsch 880.
MuoU, the 63. 97. ete.
Muotathal 68.
Muottas, Sass da 379.
Mur de la Cdte 263.
Muraigl, Alp 384.
— , Muottae 380. 884.
— , Hb 884.
Muraiglbach. the 880.
Muranza Valley, the 400.
Muraun, Pis 350. 868.
Muraz 030. 232.
Muretto Glacier, the 376.
— , Monte 375.
— Pass, the 375. 897.
8. Mureszan 878.
Murg on the Rhine 21.
*> on the Lake of Wal
lenst^dt 43.
— , the 16. 45.
Murgenthal 16.
Margsee Furkel 48. 69.
Murgthal, the 48.
Muri 20.
Murinascio 101.
Murren 149.
Murrenbach, the 149. 151.
Murten 197.
Mnrtener See, the 196.
Murtira 392.
— , Pis 39S.
Miirtschenalp, the 43. 59.
Miirtschenstock, the43.59.
Muschelfels, the 55.
Miisella, Munt 388.
Musenalp. the 80.
Musocco 421.
Musso 428.
Miistail 357.
Mustair 402.
— , Val 389. 402.
Muster 850.
Mut, Piz 349.
Muttbach. the 112.
Mutten 357.
Muttenalp, the 62.
Mutten Glacier 108.
Muttenhom , the , near
the Furka 108. 112.
Muttensee, the 62.
Muttenthaier Grat 86.
Muttens 11.
Mutthom, the, in the
Bernese Alps 1S2.
Muttler, the 393.
Muttnerhom, the 357.
Muttner Tobel, the 357.
Mutun, Piz 864.
Muveran, see Moeveran.
Mnszano, Lake of 409.
426.
Mylius, Villa 429.
Mytenstein, the 79.
Mythen, the 97.
Nachat, Plan 251.
Kadelhorn, the 320.
Nadeljoch, the 321.
Nadla, the 160.
Nafels 58.
Kagelis Gratli 113. 170.
Ka&, Piz 379.
Naira, Piz 844.
Kalps, Alp 851.
— , Pass %1.
— , Val 351.
Naluns, Muotto 391.
Nandro, Val 369.
Nangy 245.
Nanikon 40.
Nant 222.
— , Pont de 222.
Nant Blanc 253.
Nant Borr«nt, Chalets de
261.
Nant Bride 234.
— • Noir, the. on the Col
de Balme m
INDBX.
467
Kantua 238.
I^anieer Thai 286. 288. 308.
Ifapf, the 123.
I7apol6on, Pont 287.
—, Fontaine 211.
I^aravedro, Alp 372.
Saat, the 140.
l^iueii, the 166.
I^asen, the 76.
:Kater8 286. 296.
l^atons, Val 369.
I^auders 402.
l^audersberg) Castle 402.
Xava, Bochers de 805.
— , Pointe de 306.
l^avlgense , the 302. 308.
I^axberg Tunnel 100.
IT^aye , <Bocher de 218.
Sao. 366.
S. Kazearo 416.
Ifebikon 19.
ITeftenbach 31. 46.
I^elenalp, the 80.
IJeirivue 228.
Ifendaz 281.
— , Val de 281.
mndein 406.
l^enzing 406.
Ver, Piz 349.
l^eri, Ht. 324.
Nernier 231.
Nero, Monte 386.
l^erone, Bagni di 413.
17essel 286.
!Ne88elboden-Alp, the 16.
Nessenthal, the 122.
Nesslau 67.
l^essleren 146.
NeMO 431.
Nesthorn, the 286.
Ketfltall 68.
Neubriicke, the, in the
Viap Valley 306.
Keuburg 24. 30.
Keuchatel 186.
— , Lake of 184. 197.
Neudorf 48.
Neuenburg 186.
Neueneck 192.
Neuenstadt 184.
Keu-Habflburg, Gh&teau
91.
Neuhaus 140.
Neuhausen 22. 24. 26.
Keu St. Johann 67.
Neumiinater 38.
Neunkirch 22.
Neoflchels 183.
Neu-Solothom 13.
Neu - Toggenburg, Buina
57.
yeuva, Glacier de la 25^.
265.
Neuveville 184.
Neu-Wartburg, Castle 13.
Neyruz 194.
Ifiagara, Piccolo 413.
St. Nicolas de Veroce 261.
St. Kicolans (GK>8chenen
Valley) 104.
— (Visp Valley) 308.
S. Niccold da Hira 103.
Nidau 10.
Nidelbad, the 38.
Nidfum 60.
Nidwalden 113.
Niederalp, the 288.
Nieder-Bauen, the 77.
Niederbipp 13.
Niederdorf 12.
Kiedergestelen 286.
Niederglatt 18. 44.
Niederhallwyl 126.
Niederhasli 44.
Niederhom, the 146.
Nieder-JuTalta 366.
Nieder-Bawyl 180.
Nieder-Bealta 366.
Nieder^Bickenbach 113.
Niederried 164.
Nieder-Schonthal 11.
Kiederschworstadt 21 •
Niedersee, the 58.
Nieder-Surenen 115.
Nieder-Umen 58.
Nieder-Utzwyl 46.
Niederwald 292.
Niederwyl 16.
Niesen, the 137.
Niesenalp, the 138.
Kiesenhom, the 179.
Niggelingen 306.
Kigulia Canal, the 291.
St. Niklaus 308.
St. Niklausen 118.
Niouc 303.
Niva, Alp 299.
Niven, the 177.
— Pass, the 177.
Kivolet, Chalets de 274.
— , Col de 274.
— , Dent du 240. 241.
Noasca 275.
Noaschetta, the 275.
Nofels 406.
Kohl 26.
Noiraigue 189.
Noir-Mont, the 211.
Kolla, the 366. 357.
Kollen, the, on the Titlis
115.
Norn, the 243.
Komenon, the Grand 273.
— , Combe de 271.
Nordend, thefMonteBosa)
818. 318.
Notkersegg 48. 62.
Kotre-Dame de la Gorge
261.
— de Briangon 242.
— de Garrison 263.
— des Ermites 92.
— de Lorette 276.
— de BhSmes 223.
— du Sex 222.
Nottwyl 19.
Nouva, Alp 273.
— , Col deUa 272.
Kovaggio 410.
Novai, Alp 338.
Novara 423. 424.
Novate 362. 434.
Novel 216. 232.
Novena, Passo di 292.
Nozon, the 197.
Nudrit, Pont 277.
Nuefelgiu Pass, the 294.
Nufenen 363.
Nufenen Pass, the 292.
Nufenen8tock,the292.296.
Nliglia, Val 389.
Nuna, Piz 389.
Nunalphom, the 118.
Niinihom, the 172.
Nuolen, Baths of 40.
Nuova, Alp 292.
Nurschallas, Piz 352.
Nus 268.
Niischenalp, the 62.
Nyon 210.
Ob dem See 329.
ObSche, r 304.
Ober-Aar Gacier, the
169.
Oberaarhorn, the 169.
Oberaar Hut 169.
Oberaarjoch. the 169.
Oberaar-Bothjoch 169.
Ober-Albis 37.
Ober-Aletsch Glacier 286.
294.
Oberalp, the 363.
— Pass, the 353.
Oberalpsee, the 353.
Oberalpstock 109. 361.
Ober-Arth 83.
Ober-Bauen, the 72.
Oberbergli 139.
Oberbipp 13.
Oberblegisee, the 60.
Oberbuchen 126.
Oberbuchsiten 13.
Oberburg 16.
Oberdorf 12. 14.
Ober-Egeri 94.
Oberegg 61.
Oberems 346.
Obere Buchberg, the 41.
30*
468
INDSX.
Ober-Oabelhorn 304. 316.
Obergestelen 292.
Oberglatt 44.
Ober-QAchw&nd 87.
Oberhalbstein Rhine, the
368.
Oberh&lbsteln-Thal 368.
Oberhaupt, the 88. 86.
Oberhofen 139.
OberhomAee, the 151.
Ober-Juvalta 366.
Oberkasern, Alp 42. 109.
Oberkastels 34&.
Oberland, the Bernese
127.
— , the Biindner 346.
Ober-Laret 339.
Oberlaubhom, the 179.
Oberlauchringen 22.
Obermatt 122.
Obermeilen 38.
Obermutten 367.
Obereinach 125.
Ober-Bickenbach 80.
Oberried on the Lake
Brienz 164.
— in the Simmcnthal
178
Oberr'ieden 38. 40.
Oberriet 328.
Ober-Rothhorn 315.
Oberriiti 20.
Obersaxen 347.
Oberschan 328.
Ober-Schonenbuch 63.
Oberschwand 114.
Obersee, the 58. 98. 294.
Oberstaad 24. 30.
Oberstalden, the 137.
Ober-8tooken 181.
Ober-TJrncn 68.
Ober-Utzwyl 46.
Obenratz 368.
Oberwald 292.
Obcr-Winterthur 30.
Oberwyl 90.
Oberzell 24.
Obhaag, Alp 116.
Obladis 403.
Obort 61.
Obrist, Alp 358.
Obfltalden 43.
Obwalden 118.
Oche, Dent d' 232.
Ochs, the 163.
Ochsenberg, the 336.
Ochsenblanke, the 61.
Ochaenhorn, the 308.
Ochsei^och, the 168.
Oehningen 24. 30.
Oehrli, the 65.
Oelberg Tunnel 97.
Oen, Ova d' 376.
Oensingen 13.
Oerlikon 44.
Oesch 229.
Oeschinen, Alp 161. 173.
— , Lake of 173. 151.
— Thai, the 173.
Oeschinengrat, the 151.
Oescfainenhom, ttie 173.
Oeschine^joch, the 173.
Ofenberg, the 389.
Ofenhom, the 294.
Ofen Pasa, the 389.
Ofenthal, the 290. 319.
Ofenthal Pass, the 290.
Oggebbio 417.
Ogliasca 428.
Oira 297. 422.
Okenshohe 38.
Olcio 433.
Oldenalp, the Upper 226.
Oldenhorn, the 225. 226.
Oleggio 416.
Olen, Col d' 323.
Olgiate 433. 434.
of Olginate, Lago di 433.
Olimpino. Monte 411.
Olivone 354.
Olloccia, Val 424.
OUomont 283.
— , Val 282.
Ollon 221.
Olona, the 434.
Olten 12.
Olten-Hammer 13.
Oltingen 12.
Oltschibach, the 163.
Oltschikopf, the 166.
Omberenza, Crete d' 307.
Omegna 291. 422.
Ondezzana. Pic d' 272.
Onnens 191.
Onno 432.
Onsemone, Val 413.
Or, Mont d^ 192. 193.
Orasso 417.
Orbe 192. 197.
— , the 192. 197. 198.
Oreo, Val d' 274.
Ordeno 374.
Ordlegna, the 373. 375.
Oren, Col d' 282.
— , Combe d^ 300.
Oria 426.
Origlio, Lake of 410.
Ormelune, the 265. 273.
Ormona 225.
Ormont-deaaous 226.
deasus 226.
Omavaaao 290.
Omy 197.
— , Cabane d' 264. 276.
— , Combe d' 264.
> Glacier d^ 254. 376.
Oro, Monte d' 370.
Oron-le-Chatel 195.
— -la-ViUe 195. 196.
Ora-Desaua 271.
Oraera 106.
Oraera Valley, the 298.
Oraiirea 276.
Orsino, Piz 106.
Oraino Paaa, the 107.
Orairora Lake 107.
Orso, Cohno delF 361.
Orta422.
— , Lago d' 422.
Ortenstein, Caatle 366.
Ortler, the 401.
Ortachwaben 197.
Ortatock, the 60. 62.
Orvin 10.
Osogna 103.
Oaola, Val d' 412.
Osaaaco 292.
Oaaingen 30.
Oaaola, Val d' 290.
Osteno 426.
Oatermundingen 135.
Ot, Piz 380.
Ota, Alp 383.
Otanea, Col dea 281.
Otelflngen 18. 45.
Otemma, Col d' 282.
— , Glacier d' 281. 300.
— , Pointe d' 281.
St. Othmar, island 24.
Othmarsingen 18. 20.
Ottenberg 46.
Otterachwyl 90.
Ouchea, Lea 246. 260.
Ouchy 212.
Oveaca. the 290.
Oyace dOO.
St. Oyen 279.
Padella, Piz 380.
Pain de Sucre, the 279.
Painaec 303.
Paix, He de 219.
Palanzo 431.
Pali^ieuz 265.
Palette, the 226.
Paldzieux 196. 196.
Palfriea, Alp U. 328.
Pallanza 418.
Pallanzeno 290.
Pallavicini, ViUa 420.
Pallud 242.
Palpuogna 366.
Palii, Piz 386. 387.
— Glacier, the 387. 395.
— , Lake 397.
Palua, Alp 336. 406.
Pambio 409.
Paneyroaaaz, Glac. de 230.
Panix 66.
INDEX.
469
Panix Pma, the ^.
Panizerbaeh, the 849.
Panoflfli^re, Gabane de
280.
Pantenbriicke, the 61.
Para, Chalet de la 262.
Parabiago 421.
Paradies, the 363.
— , nannery 28.
Paradis, Piz 851.
Paradiso 406. 409.
Paradiso, Oran 273. 274.
Parayiso 426.
Pardella 349.
Pardenn 338.
Pardi 363.
Pardiflla 886.
Pardorea Tunnel 102.
Parfe 432.
Paresseux, Col des 233.
Parmelan, the 243.
Parpan 367.
Parrain, Mt. 281.
Parrot-Spitze, the 323.
Parseier Spitze, the 403.
Parsenn 388.
Part-Dien, Conyent 227
Partnan Pass, the 337.406.
Partnuner Staflfel 387.
Pascolo 422.
Paspels, Castle 856.
Pass Mai, the 357.
Passalacqua, Villa 431.
Passetti Pass, the 365.
Passo, Al 297. .
Passo Crap 348.
Passugg 333. 367.
Pasta, Villa 432.
Patenen 405.
Patnaal, Fnorcla da 348.
Patznaun Thai, the 390.
404.
Paudke, the 196.214.220.
Paun da Zucher 385.
Payerhiitte, the 401.
Payeme 194. 196.
Pazzallo 409.
Pazzola. Piz 351.
Peccia 323. 414.
Pedenosso 396. 899.
Pedriolo Alp 318. 322.
— Glacier 318.
Peiden, Baths 348.
Peiler Thai, the 348.
Pei8t343.
Pelaggia, Cima 432.
Pfelerins. Nant des 262.
— , Glacier des 262.
Pella 423.
Pellina, Val 267.
Pellino, the 423.
Pelouse, Pointe 264.
Pendant 256.
Pennine Alps 279.
Perc^e, Pointe 246.
Percia, Cima di 273.
Perdatsch 363.
Perledo 429.
Perletoa 328.
PeroUes, Lac de 198.
Perralotaz, Pont 247. 262.
Perrignier 238.
Perroc, Dent 300.
Pers, Hunt 386.
Pers, Glacier 386. 882.
— , Isla 386.
Pesciora, Pizzo 107. 296.
Pescone, the 291.
Pestarena 317.
St. Peter, Nunnery 406.
— (Grisons) 343. 848.
— , Isle of 184.
Peter and Paul 48.
Peterlingen 196.
Petersgrat, the 162. 171.
173. 177.
Petershauaen 24.
St. Petersthal 348.
Petit-Bomand 244.
Petit-Plateau 253.
Petit-Saconnex 207.
Petit-Saleve, the 208.
Petits-Mulets 263.
St.Petronilla, Chapel 103.
Pettenasco 291. 422.
Pettneu 404.
Peulaz, Col de la 264.
— , Chalets de la 264.
Peuteret, Aiguille de 263.
Peyrasas 273.
Peziner Spitze, the 404.
Pfafers, Abbey 331.
— , Bad 330.
— , Village 331.
Pfaffen Glacier, the 121.
Pfaffenhom, the 179.
Pfaffensprung, Bridge 99.
100.
— Tunnel 100.
Pfaffenwand, the 116. 121.
Pfaffikon 39. 40. 41.
— , Lake of 41.
Pfander, the 406.
Pfannenstiel, the 38.
Pfannenstock, the 60.
Pfedernwald, the 83.
Pfeffingen 9.
Pfunds 403.
Pfungen 45.
Pfyn (in the Valais) 285.
Plan' Alto 101.
Plan Canffer 370.
Plana 424.
^, La, Alp 322.
Pianaccio, Alp 372.
Pianascio, Alp 414.
Pianazzo 981.
Piancanino 873. 375.
Pianello 428.
Plan^ 272.
Pianl6 372.
Piano 430.
— , Lago del 436.
Piano d'Erba 433.
— dei Porci 101.
— di Segno 364.
— del Tivano 431.
Pianotondo Tunnel 103.
Plans 408.
Piantonetto, Val 272. 275.
Piatta Mala 397.
— Martina 400.
Piazza, Cima di 895. 400.
Piazza S. Martino 396.
Piccola, Valle 322. 434.
Piccolo Altare, Col del
424.
Pie di Mulera 317. 290.
Piece, Glacier de 300.
Pierre a dzo, La 283.
— k B^ranger 250.
— k B^rard 266.
— k Bot 186.
- k TEchelle 252.
— Grept, TSte 222. 330.
— Joseph, Col de 264.
— Pertuis 10.
— Pointue, Payillon de la
262.
- des Seryagios 305.
— taill^e 366.
— k Vire 281.
— -k-VoiT 224. 276. 280.
283.
— , Chateau de 246.
St. Pierre d'Albieny 241.
— de la Cluse 190.
— , Castle near Aosta 266.
— Mont-Joux 276.
Pieterlen 15.
Pietrarossa, Val 397.
— , Alp 410.
S. Pietro 333.872. 426.434.
— , Pizzo 319.
S. Pietro-Berbenno 398.
Pigliamohom, the 322.
Pignieu, Baths of 358.
— , Cuolm da 66.
Pila 424.
Pilatus, the 88.
Pile Alp, the 323.
Pillergletscher, the 33vS.
Pillon, Col de 226.
— , Chalets de 236.
Pino 416.
Pinterjoch, the 33 1.
Pioda 398.
Piode 424.
— , Alp 414.
470
INDBX.
Piode Joeh, the 314.
— Glacier 314.
Piora, Hotel and Yal 101.
Piotta 102.
Piottino, Monte 103.
— Tunnel 102.
Piovema, the 428.
Pirlo Lakes, the 397.
St. Pirminflberg 331.
Pisch, Aua da 402.
Pischa, La 385.
— , Fuorcla 366.
Pischahorn, the 338.340.
Pisciadella 396.
Piscie, Col delle 323.
Pisoc, Piz 392.
Pissevaehe, the 223.
Pitasch 348.
Pitons, Les 206.
Pitschen, Lej 394.
Piumogna, the 102.
Piuro 371.
Pizokel, the 333.
Pizzo, Villa 431.
Plaffeyen 194.
Plafna , Piz 390. 392.
— , Val 389. 390.
Plaine Morte, Glacier
de la 172. 179.
Plambnit 221.
Plan (Ormont) 225.
Plan Bel Achat 251.
— de Jupiter 279.
— de r AiguUle 252.
— des Dames 262.
— des Boses 180.
Fenfitre. Col 267.
— Jovet 262.
— la Chaud 279.
— Nachat 251.
— N^vtf, Glacier de 222.
— des Rosea 180.
Plan, Aig. du 251. 252.
Planalp, the 164.
Planards, Chalets 249.
Planaval 274.
Planches. Les 217. 218.
Planchettes. Les 188.
Planeira 36d.
Plangolin, Col de 281.
Plankenalp, the 80. 115.
Planpraz 251. 254.
Plan Sena 395.
Plan Rai, Glacier 338.
Plans, Les (Bex) 222.
— , ValWe des 222.
Plantour, the 221.
Plasseggen Joch 337. 405.
Platd , Desert and Esca>
Hers de 254.
Platifer, the 102.
•'latta 353. 376.
latta, Pi/ 369.
Plattas, Val 360. 353.
Platten 286. 309.
Platten Alp 59.
Plattenhomer, the 338.
Plattenschlucht, the 348.
Plattiberg, the 117.
Plattje, the 313. 320.
Plazbi, Val 366.
Pleiades, Les 216. 218.
Pleine, La 238.
Pleisshom, the 401.
Plessur, the 333. 343. 367.
Pletschbach. the 147. 149.
Pletschen 306.
Pletschen Alps 147.
Pleureur, Mont 281.
Pliniana, Villa 431.
Plou 268.
Plurs 371.
Po, the 424.
Poch, Val del 392.
Poohtenbach, the 151.171.
Pochtenkessel, the 171.
Pognana 431.
Poia, la 270.
St. Point, Lake of 190.
Pointe Perc^e, the 246.
Poldi, Villa 431.
Polleggio 108.
PoUenzer Thai 354.
Pollux, the 312.
Polmengo Bridge 102.
Pombia 416.
Pommat, the 297.
Pont (Val Savaranche)
273. 274.
Pont, Al 297.
— -, Le lou.
— d'El 270.
— Boset 272.
— de Marie 247.
— P^lissier 246.
— St. Martin 269.
— de Xant 222.
— Serrant 265.
Pontarlier 190.
Ponte, Al 287. 294.
Ponte (Engadine) 388.
— (Val Locana) 275.
— Capriasca 410.
— del Diavolo 399.
— Grande 317.
— Oscuro 413.
— S. Pietro 433.
— Tresa 425.
Ponte Alto 289. 400.
Pontet 261.
Pontida 433.
Pontis, Les 303.
Pontlatz Bridge, the 403.
Ponton 272.
— , Alp 271.
— , Tour de 272.
Pontresina 380.
— , Muottas da 382.
Ponts, lea 260.
Porcareccio, Passo di 413.
Porcelizza, Val 372.
Porchabella Glacier 341.
366
Porcl'as 346. 348.
Porlezza 426.
Porrentruy 9.
Port de Comin 239.
— de Puer 239.
— Valais 232.
Porta da Spescha, the
61. 351.
- del Merli 428.
Porte du Sex, La 2XL
Portein 356.
Portjengrat, the 289.
Porto Cleresio 425.
Porto Valtravaglia 415.
417.
Porto Varallo 416.
Porza 410.
Poschenried 179.
Poschenriedthal, the 179.
Poschiavina, Val 387.
Poschiavino, the 396. 397.
Poschiavo 396.
— , Lago di 396.
Posses, aux 229.
Pougny 238.
Pourri, Mont 266.
Pousaz, La 221.
Pousset, Punta del 271.
Pousset-desaus 271.
Poyaz 256.
Pozzaccia, Casc.della 413.
Pozzolo, Pizzo 290.
Praberon, Alp 284.
Praborgne 311.
Prad 402.
Prada 344.
— , Alp 429.
Pradella 393.
Pragel, the 64.
Pralaire, the 208.
Pralong 244.
Pralovin 299.
Prangins, Chateau 211.
219.
Praray^ 267. 300.
Prarion, the 246. 260.
Prasanz 369.
Prasiiratsch 379.
Pratigau, the 335. 336.
Prato 412.
— Tunnel 102.
— , Val 414.
Prato Sesia 424.
Pratteln 11. 16.
Praz 197.
— , La 241.
INDEX.
471
Prai, iM 251. 266.
- Combeira 180.
- Conduit 252.
- de Fort 265.
- Jean. Chalets 299.
- Sec 264.
Prftserhdhe 366.
Prazfleuri 901.
— , Col de 281.
Praslong 298.
Prazmousse 299.
Prd, Le 228. 264.
Pr6 de Bar 264.
Precassino Tunnel 406.
Preda 366.
Predelp Pass 103. 354.
Prdfargier 186.
Pr6gny 207.
Premadio 396. 399.
>remeno 418.
'remia 297.
*remosello 290.
'requartero 317.
t4 St. Didier 265.
rese, Le 396.
resse 296.
re^isara, Monte 401.
. Prex 212. 220.
aevlusa, Fuorcla 383.
ima. Alp 383.
ime, Monlin de 240.
Pnmo, Monte 434. 431.
imsch 43.
tngj-la-CsiUe 244.
)lin 296.
>menthoa8e, the 211.
20.
>menthoux 211.
•montogno 372.
•sa, Hte. 107.
z, Cantine de 277.
Glacier de 277.
Plan do 277.
ntrut 9.
tz 403.
r, Port de 239.
kflchin, Piz 370. 377.
menga, Tower 351.
ta Nera 101.
laiglas, Val 349. 61.
lacier 349. 61.
ota,Bridge,nearPon-
sina 382. 383.
, near Zemetz 388.
^al 388.
ilav 396.
no, Lago di 434.
;sch 348.
kont 238.
,zza, Val di 317.
424.
Qnarona 424.
Quarsano 481.
Quart, Chateau 268.
Quart-Villefranche 268.
Quarten 43.
Quaterrals, Piz 367.;.389.
Quincinetto 269.
Quinten 42. 43.
Quinto 102.
Rabenfluh, the 136.
Rabius 349.
Rabiusa, the (near Coire)
333. 367.
— (Safierthal) 345. 346.
Babuigne, Glacier de 273.
Bachisberg, the 16.
Badolfzell 23.
Badiinthal, the 339.
Beetikon, the 336, 405.
Bafruti, the 124.
Bagatz 329.
Bagol 332.
Baimondi, VUla 432.
Bain 125.
Baisse, Bavineof the 189.
Bali, Alp di 397.
Balligen 140.
Balligstocke, the 140.
Bambach, the 389. 392.
402.
Bamin Alp 66.
Baminbach, the 66.
Bamin-Pass, the 66. 44.
Bamisfluh. the 118.
Bamosa, Alp 348.
— , Fuorcla da 348.
Bamsen 23.
Bamsey 16.
Bamuosch 393.
Banasca Alp, the 66.
Bancio, Bocchetta di 272
Banda 309.
Banden, the Beringer 23.
— , the Hohe 23.
Banft, the 118.
Bang, Tgte de 187.
Bankweil 406.
Banzo-Gerra 415.
Banzola, Col de 323.
Bappenfiuh 136.
Bapperswyl 39. 41.
Bappea, Les 268.
Baron 285.
Baachil, Alp 368.
-, Piz 368.
Baspilly Valley 172.
Baterichaboden, the 168.
Baterschen 46.
Bathhausen 125.
Bauft, the 165.
Baus, the 9.
Bauschenberg 23.
Baut Glacier, the 287.
Bauthorn, the 287.
Bauti-Alp, the 58.
Bautifelder, the 58.
Bautispitz, the {^.
Baveisch Lakea, the 341.
Bayerette, La 229.
Bayetsch, Piz 353.
Bavins, Les 180.
Bavoir 224.
Bawyl. the 180.
Bawylhorn, the 180.
Bawylsee, the 180.
Bazliberg, the 178.
Bazli Glacier 178. 179.
Be 413.
Bealp 111.
Bealt, Hoch-, Buin 357.
Bealta, Buin 356.
Beams 369.
Bebbio, Punta del 287.
Bebstein 327.
Bechthalden 194.
Beckingen 45. 292.
Beconvilier 10.
Bedasco, Piz 400.
Bedessau, Mt. 310.
Bedorta, Corona di 412.
— , Passo di 412.
Befrains, Les 188.
Begensberg 45.
Begensdorf 18.
Begina, Piz 348.
Begina Margherita, Ca.
panna 267.
Begoledo 428.
Behtobel, the 52.
Beichenau 345. 355.
— , Island of 23.
Beichenbach 171.
— , the 161. 162.
— , Falls of the 162.
Beichenbnrg 40.
Reichenstein 182.
Beiden 19.
Beidenbach 181.
Beignier 244.
Beinach 126.
Beisen 12.
S. Bemigio, Promontory
418.
— , Vaia 418.
Remoinie SOT.
Remiis 393.
St. Bemy 279.
Benan 187.
Benens 192. 220.
Benfenhorn, the 162.
Benggli Alp 171.
Rennendorf 9.
Rentiert, Alp 350.
— , Piz 350.
Reposoir 244.
472
INDEX.
Beposoir Valley, the 241.
246.
Beppischtbal, the 68.
Beschen 4U2.
Keschen-Scheideck 402.
See, the 402.
Reflcia 426.
Besegone di Lecco 4S3.
Resgia 360.
Reni 14.
Re«ti-Pas8, the 177.
Beatl-Rothhorn, the 177.
Besti-Tschingel Glacier
109.
Besy 324.
Retico, Lago 354.
Rettau Lake 226.
Renchenette 10.
Reulissenberg, the 179.
Reuschbach. the 225.
Reuse, see Areuse.
Bense d*Arolla, Col de la
282.
Beussvthe 69. 18.' 72 etc.
— , the Realper 111.
Reutigen 181.
Revera 274.
Rezzonico 428.
Rhteticon. the 336. 405.
Rhaziins o65.
Rhein, Averser 860.
— , Hmter 345. 363.
— , — (Source of the)
— , Hedelser, or
— , Mittel , the 360. 353.
— , Oberhalbfltein 368.
— , Valser 348.
— , Val 360.
— , Vorder 345. 350. 362
363.
— , Vriner 348.
Rheineck 49. 327.
Rheinfelden 17.
— , Bei 21.
Rheingau, Upper 327.
Rheinklingen 24.
Rheinquellhom. the 363.
Rheinthal, Vorder- 346.
Rheinwald Glacier 363.
Rheinwaldhom, the 363.
Rheinwaldthal , the 360.
RhSme, Val dl 273.
— , Colle di 273.
— , Glacier de 273.
— Notre-Dame 273.
— St. Georges 273.
Rhine, the 3. 21. 25. etc.
— , the Falls of the 24.
Rh6 421.
Rhodan, the 292.
Rhone, the 112. 220. 232.
291. etc.
Rhone Glacier, the 112.
291.
— , Perte du 238.
Rhonen, the Hohe 39.
Bhonen-Alp 99.
Rhonestock. the 291.
Bialt, A 296.
Bichensee 126.
Bichetli Pass, the 66.
Bichisau 64.
Bichterswyl 39. 40.
Bickelshausen 23.
Bickenbach 95. 97.
Bickenbach, Ober- 80.
— , Nieder- 113.
Biddes 283.
Bied on the Inn 403.
— (Lotschenthal) 176.
— (Muotathal) 68.
— (Toss Valley) 46.
— (Valais) 294.
Riedbad 57.
Bieder Alp, the 294.
— Furka, the 294.
Riederhom, the 294.
Biedem 65.
Biedlochbach, the 339.
Biedmatten: Col de S(X).
282.
Riedpass, the 321.
Biedwyl 16.
Biehen 8.
Biein 348.
— , Piz 346.
Bieiner Tobel, the 348.
Bielasingen 23.
Biemenstaldenthal, the
64. 79. 97. 98.
Bienzer Stock, the 100.
Biesbach 31.
Bieseten-Pass, the 65.
Bietberg. CasUe 356.
Biffair 402.
RifTelalp, the 312. 311.
Biffelberg, the 312.
Biffelbord 312.
Riffelhaus, the 311. 312.
Biffelhom , the 312. 313.
BifTelhom-Lake, the 812.
Riffel Hotel 312.
Riffler, the 404.
Riggisberg 137.
Bigi, the M.
Rigi Felsenthor 81. 84.
— First 81. 87.
— Kaltbad 81. 82.
- Klosterli 81. 83.
— Kulm, the 81. 84.
— Rothstock, the 82.
— Scheidegg 81. 87.
— Staffel 81. 82. 83.
Rigiblick 75.
Rigithalstock, the 114.
Rima 424.
Rimasco 322. 424.
Rimpfischhom 315. 319.
Rimpfischwange 319.
Rindelflnh Tunnel 96.
Rinderbiel 110.
Rinderhomer, the 174.
Rindwaldbad, the 171.
Ringelspitz, the 346.
Ringgenbergy Ruins 144.
164.
Rinkenberg 349.
Rinkenkopf, the 66.
Rinken thai -Alp 61
Ripaille, Castle 231.
Rippe, La 211.
Rischenen Alp 286.
Riseten Fall, the 76.
Risikopf, the 66.
Ritom, Lake 101.
Ritter Pass, the 296.
Ritzberg Alp, the 179.
Ritzengratli, the 169.
Ritzingen 292.
Riva in the Sesia - Valley
322. 424.
— di Palanzo 431.
Riva, Lago di 362.
Rivage, Le 207.
Rivarolo 275.
Rivasco 297.
Rivaz St. Saphorin 195.
220.
Rive 212.
— , Auf dcr 317.
Rive Haute 276.
Riveo 413.
Rivera 406.
Riviera, the 103.
Rivolte, Alp 410.
Roasco, the 398.
Robici, Alp 297. 414.
Roc Koir, the 304.
Roccapietro ^24.
S. Rocco 297.
Roche in the Jura 9.
— on the Rhone 220.
Roche Perc^e, La 257.
— sur Foron 244.
Rochefort, Chateau 196.
Rocher,Chalets sur le 252.
Roches. Col des 188.
Rodi-Fiesso 102.
Rodont-Bridge, the 106.
Rofelstaffel 318.
Rofelhdmer, the 818.
Rofifha 369.
Rofna-Ravine. the 36().
Roggenhom, the 337.
B*>gg^^i 16.
Rohbutzli Alp 64.
Rohr 12.
Rohrbach, the 100.
INDEX.
473
Bohrbachstein 179. 180.
Bohrbach-Tunnel 100.
Rohren 117.
Boi, Rocher du 240.
Roisetta, Bee 310.
Rol, Punta 272.
RoUe 211. 220.
Romagnano 424.
Romainmotier 198.
Romanico 421.
Romanshom 46. 29.
Romerswrl 125.
Romitl 82.
Romont 194.
Romoos 128.
Roncalia, Villa 371.
Roncio 297.
Ronco 272. 416. 423.
Rondadura Puis 351.
— , Piz 351. 364.
Rondchatel. Castle 10.
Rongellen 358.
Rorbas 45.
Rorschach 43.
RorschacherBerg, the 48.
Rosa, La 396.
Rosa Blanche, Pte. de 281.
Rosa, Monte 813. 318.
Rosairy, Chalets 243.
Rosanna, the 404.
Rosatsch, Piz 385.
Rosd 194.
Roseg, Piz 386.
— Glacier 383. 386.
— , Porta 386.
— , Valley of 383.
Roselette, Mt. 261.
Rosenbach, the 151.
Rosenberg, the 48.
Rosenhorn, the 160.
Rosenhiigel 46.
Rosenlaui, Baths of 161.
— Glacier 161.
Roslenflrst 55.
Rossa 365.
Rossa Viva, the 271.
Rossberg, the 94. 96.
Rossboden Glacier 288.
Rossbodenhorn, the 239.
Rossbodei^och, the 288.
Rossbiihel, the 48. 61.
Rossetto, CoUe 373.
Rossfall, the 57.
Rossiniires 228.
Rossmaad, the 55.
Rossmatt Valley 64.
Rosso, Mte 418.
— , Oima di 375.
Rossstock, the 98.
Roteln 45.
Rothbach, the 56.
Rothe, the 15.
— ^ the Hintere 122.
iRothegg, the 116.
[Rothe Herd, the 150.
— Kumme, the 172. 812.
— Totzen, the 88.
Rothelspitze. the 401.
Rothenberg 183.
Rothenbronnen 366.
Rothenburg 19.
Rothenegg, the 146.
Rothfluh, the, near Vitz-
nau 75.
— near Lauterbr. 147.
— near Arth 83. 84.
Rothenthurm 94:
Rothgratli, the 80. 116.
Rothhom, the Brienzer
164. 119. 124.
— , the Aroser 344.
— , the (Blumlisalp) 173.
— , Faldum 177.
— , Ferden 177.
— , Best! 177.
— (Macugnaga) 318.
— (Oberaarjoch) 169.
— , the Sigriswyler 139.
— (near Saas) 289.
— (Zermatt) 316.
— (Zinal) 304. 316.
Bothhornsattel, the 169.
Bdthihom, the 159. 160.
Rothkreuz 20. 69. 95.
Rothloch, the 169.
Roth-See, the 69.
Bothstock, the Rigi- 83.
— , the Uri- 80. 115.
— , the Engelberg 116. 80.
— Liicke, the 80.
Roththal, the 153. 154.
Boththal Sattel 153. 154.
Roththor, the 43.
Botondo, Pizzo 107. 292.
Botten, the 292.
Bouge, Mt. 263.
Bougemont 182.
Bousseau's Island 202.
Bousses, Les 211.
Bovana, Val 413.
Rovano, Passo 387.
Rovenna 432.
Boveredo 365.
Bovio 411.
Roysan 280.
Bozberg, the 117.
Bozloch, the 117.
Buan, Mont 254.
Bubi. Alp 63.
Bubigen 135.
Bublihorn , the 182. 229.
Buch-Eptingen 12.
Buchen, the Grosse 110.
Bachenglamisch, the 64.
Buchhubel, the 115.
Buchkehlen Pass 110. 63.
Buchi, the 59.
Biick, Alp 109.
Ruden 2^.
Budenz, Chateau 81.
Bue 196.
Biiegsau 16.
Bu^ras 361.
Bufi, the 96.
Bugen, the Kleine 142.
Buinaz 266.
Buinette, the 283.
Buis 66. 349.
Buitor, the 265. 273.
— Falls, the 265. 274.
— Lake 274.
Biimikon 45.
Bumilly 240.
Bdmlang 44.
Bunca Bridge 346.
Banplanas o57.
Buosalp 64.
Buosalper Eulm 64.
Buppen, the 62. 328.
Buppersweil 20. 31.
Ruscheiner Alp 66.
Biischlikon 38. 40.
Busein, Piz 61.
— , Val 61. 350.
Rnsso 413.
Ruth, Dent de 183.
Riithi in the Bhine Valley
328.
Riiti near Bapperswyl 41.
45.
— near Stachelberg 60.
Btitli, the 79.
Biitti 16.
Biittifim, the 123.
Riittihubelbad 126.
Ruvino, Valle 292.
Ruz, Val de 187.
Bykon 45.
Saane, see Sarine.
Saanen 182. 234.
— Moser, the 183.
Saas im Grund 330.
Saas in the Pratigau 337.
Saasberg, the 60.
Saas-Pass, the 290.
Saasgrat, the 285. 306.
Saasthal, the 330.
Sachseln 118.
Sackingen 31.
Saconnex 207.
Sacro Monte, the, near
Orta 422.
— near Varallo 424.
Safenwyl 19.
Saflen-Platz 346.
Saflerbach, the 346.
Saflerberg, the 346.
474
INDEX.
Safier Thai, the 846.
Sage, La 299. 308.
Sagens 346. 347.
Sagerou, Col de 234. 264.
Sagetobel, the 342.
Sagisthal See 146. 160.
Sagliains, Val 338. 389.
Sagne, Mont 187.
Saillon 283.
Saissa 353.
Sajento, the 396.
Sala 410. 431.
Saland 45.
Salanfe, the 223. 238. 258.
Salanfe Alp, the 233. 234.
— , Col de 234.
Salay 301.
Salba 395.
Saleinaz, Fenfttre de 276.
— , Glacier de 254.
Salenstein 24. 30.
Salenton, Col de 254.
Sales 195.
Saletz 328.
Saleve, Mont 206.
Salgesch 284.
Salins 242.
Salischlosfl 13.
Saljoan 264.
Sallanches 246.
Salle, La 242. 266. 282.
Salli^res, Tour 233.
Salorino 411.
Salquenen 284.
Sala Alp 44.
Salteras, Piz 366.
Saltine, the 285. 287.
Salute, La 417.
Saluver. Val 379.
Salux 369.
Salvagny 254.
Salvan 258.
Salvasplanas 380.
S. Salvatore. Monte 409.
Samaden 379.
Sambelna, Becca di 273.
Sambucco 414.
Samedan 380.
Samina Valley 405.
Samoens 254.
Samolaco 362.
Samatagem 92.
Samtis-See 55. 58. 328.
Sanagra, Val 426.
Sand-Alp, Lower 61.
— , Upper 61. 351.
Sandalp Paas , the 61. 351.
Sandbach, the 61.
Sand Glacier, the 351.
Sandflm, the 61. 110. 351.
Sandgrat, the 110. 351.
Sandhubel, the 342.
Sanetsch, the 225.
Sanetschhom, the 225.
Sanna, the 408.
Santha 270.
Santino 418.
Saoseo, Como di 395.
St. Saphorin 195. 220.
Sapun 3i4.
Sardasca Alp 388.
Sardaacabach, the 338.
Sardon&Alp 66.
^Glacier, the 66.
— Pass, the 66.
SarfaU, the Lower 328.
Sargans 44. S28.
Sarina Alp 329.
Sarine, the 182. 193. 193.
227. etc.
Sarmensdorf 126.
Sam 366.
Samen 118.
— , Lake of 118.
Sarner Aa, the 118.
Saronno 434.
Sarras, La 197.
Sarre, La, Castle 266.
Sarsura, see Sarstira.
Sartuns BIBS.
Sass Auto 388.
Sassa Plana 360.
Sassalbo, Pizzo 396.
Sassal Masone 387. 394.
— Alp 395.
Sassella 996.
Sassello Pass, the 414.
Sasseneire, the 299. 302.
Sassi^e, the 266.
— , Lac de la 273.
Sassiglione, Alp 396.
— , Forcola di 396.
Sassina, Val 291. 428.
Sasso di Ferro, II 417.
— Bissolo, Val di 397.
— S. Martino 430.
— Bancio, II 428.
Satanne ^9.
Satigny 238.
Sattel 94.
Sattelhom, the 286. 294.
SatteU, the 121. 161.
Satteltelucke, the 348.
Sattlegi 177.
St. Saturnin 241.
Sauce, Chalet de la 262.
Sauge, La 197.
Saugem 9.
Sauren Glacier, the 66.
Saurenstock, the 66.
Sausbach, the 147.
Saussure, Pavilion 265.
Sauterot 296.
Savaranche, Val 266. 272.
274.
Sayognin 369.
Savosa 410.
Sax 323.
Saxe, La, Baths 263.
— , Mont de 264.
Saxer Locke, the 328.
Saxeten 146.
Saxetenbach, the 146. 147.
Saxon, Baths of 283.
Scai, PlB 103. 354.
Scairolo, Val 410.
Scala, Lago della 395.
Scale, Mte. delle 399.
Scale di Fraele 399.
Scaletto-Pass, the 341.
— Glacier 341.
Scalettohorn, the 341.
Scanfs 388.
Scara Orell 107.
Scaradra Pass 348.
Scareglia 410.
Scarl 392.
Scarlj Val da 392.
Scarljochl, the 392.
Scatto, Passo della 413.
Scerscen Glacier , the
376. 386. 387.
— , Honte di 386.
— Pass, the 387.
Scesaplana, the 336. 404.
Schaan 406.
Schachen 60. 123.
Schachenbach, the 62. 98.
Schachenbad, the 49.
Schachenthal, the 62. 98.
Schadau, Chateau 136.
Schadburg, the 144.
Schafberg , the (near
Wildhaus) 57. 68.
— (Lotschenthal) 177.
— (Pontresina) 383.
— (Engstlenalp) 120.
— (Oeschinenthal) 151.
Schafboden, the 66.
Schaflfhausen 22.
Schaile's Egg 56.
Schafler, the 56.
Schafloch, the 139.
Schafmatt, the 12.
Schaftelen 122.
Schafthal, the 836. 376.
Schalbet-Gallery, the 287.
Schall 368.
Schallberg, the 287.
Schalliberg Alp 316.
Schallihom, the 305.
Schalljjoch, the 305. 316.
Schallithal, the 309.
Schalpel Alp 321.
SchameUa Clubhut 836.
405.
Schams, Valley of 308.
Schanflggthal, the 343.
Schangnau 146.
INDEX.
475
Schanifl 41.
Bchani«er Berg, the 42.
Scharans 366. 368.
^charinas 3^.
3charmadlager, Alp 122.
)chattenburg, Ruins 405.
^chattorf 98.
Ichatzalp, the 341. 344.
chaubhorn, the 168.
chauenberg, the 46.
chauenburger Bad 11.
cheerhorn, the 62. 110.
cheerhoni Origgeli
Pass, the 110.
:heggia, Alp 364.
2helbe, the 66.
Pass, the 66.
^heibenstoll, the 43.
heidegg, the Great 161.
, the Hasli 161.
, the Lauterbnmnen,
DT Little iK.
the Beschen 402.
the fiigi 87.
the Susten 122.
the Wengem 155.
leinige Platte, the 145.
lera Alp 389.
lerzligen 135. 138. 139.
teuss, the 10. 187.
leye, the 56.
iahom, the 341. 344.
lenhom, the 286.
iers 336.
IfHi, the 146.
ild, the (Rigi) 88.
near Glarufl) 59.
ildbach, the 83.
iltalp, the 150.
Itfluhe, the 150.
Ithorn, the(Lot0chen-
.S8) 177.
lear Miirren) 150.
mberg, the 124.
nbergerBad, the 124.
idellegi 92.
iznach 21.
inensee 38.
kgstrasse, the 94.
ns 349.
ppiner Joch, the
. 406.
ppinthal, the 338.
rigna 379.
tteinbach, the 379.
ache, Finatere 166.
;htenwaldegg 138.
erbach, the 109.
na 388.
lis 347.
ren 18.
renalp 171.
rcnbach 89. 118.
Schlierenthal, the 118.
Schlinga, Val 393.
Schlossberg, the 116.
Schloasberg Glacier 98.
Schlossber^dcke , the
98. 115.
Schlossfelsen, the 80.
Schlossllkopf, the 332.
Schlossstock, the 115.
Schlossstocklucke, the
80. 115.
Schlosswyl 125.
Schlucht 286.
Schlucht, the 22.
Schludems 408.
Schldndi, the 183.
Schldndibach, the 182.
Schlundtobel, the 336.
Schlupf, the 156.
Schmadribach , Fall of
the 150.
Schmadrijoch 152. 177.
Schmerikon 41.
Schmidbausern 294.
Schmitten (Belfort) 342.
— (near Freiburg) 192.
— (Pratigau) 336.
— (Schanfigg) 344.
Schmittertobel, the 842.
Schmorras. Alp 369.
— Pass 369.
Schnan 404.
Schnaner Klamm, the404.
Schnaus 349.
Schneckeninsel, the 164.
Schneehom, the, on the
Jungfrau 164.
— near the Spliigen 360.
Schneestock, the 123.
Schneidehom, the 180.
Schnittweyer Bad 136.
Schnurtobel, the 82.
SchoUberg, the 328.
SchoUenen, the 125.
Schonboden, the 92.
Schonbrunn 69.
Schonbiihl 16. 177.
Schonegg 145. 333.
Schonegg Pass, the 80.
Schonenberg 39.
Schonenbuch, Ober- 63.
Schonenwerth 20.
Schonfels 69.
Schonhom, the 288.
Schonibrtick, the 99.
Schrattem, Alp 166.
Schreckhorn, the 157.
Schreienbach, the 61.
Schrinen, Alp 44.
Schrinnen, the 65.
Schruns 405.
Schuls 391.
Schiipfen 11.
Schiipfheim 124.
Schwabhom, the 146.
Schwaldis, Alp 44.
Schwalmem, the 146.
Schwahnis, the 118.
Schwanau, Island of 96.
Schwanden, on the Lake
of Brienz 163.
— , on the Lake of Thun
139.
— , near Glarus 59. 65.
Schwandi 60. 89.
Schwandifluh, the 77.
Schwarenbach 174.
Schwaraach 406.
Schwarzbach, the 174.
Schwarzberg Glacier 319.
Schwarzberg - Weissthor,
the 316. 319.
Schwarze Glacier 106.
814.
Schwarsegg Hut 157. 169.
Schwarze M onch. the 149.
Schwarzenbach 46. 64.
Schwarzenberg 123.
Schwarze See, the, near
Davos 339.
— near Freiburg 194.
— near Tarasp 391.
Schwarzgletscher 174.
Schwarzgratli, the 172.
Schwarzhom, the, near
the Faulhom 160. 166.
— near the Bliimlisalp
151.
— near the Fluela-Pass
339. 341.
— (Gruben) 307.
— (MonUvon) 405.
— (Monte Rosa) 313.
— (Parpan) 344.
Schwarz-See, the 194. 315.
Schwarzsee-Bad 194. 182.
Schwarzthor, the 314.
ScTiwarzwald Glacier 161.
— Hiitten, the 120.
Schwattenfall 332.
Schwefelberg 137.181.182.
Schwegmatt, the 311. 315.
Schweibach, the 321.
Schwein Alp, the 40.
Schweinalp-Pass 40.
Schweiningen 369.
Schweizerhalle 11.
Schweizer-Thor 336. 406.
Schwellaui, the 64.
Schwellisee, the 344.
Schwende 54.
Schwendenthal , the 181.
Schwendi 51.
Schwendi-Kaltbad 118.
Schwendlenbad, the 124.
Schwerzenbach 40.
476
Schwys 96.
Schyn PaM, the 3G6. 368.
Schynige Platte, the 146.
Sciernes 228.
Scionzier 245.
Sciora, Alp 372. 373.
Sciundrau, Lago 414.
Scona 354.
Scopa 424.
Scopello 424.
Scopi, the 354.
Scuol 391.
Seckelamtshtisli 23.
SedruQ 351.
Scealpsee. the 54.
Seebach 18.
Seeboden, the 346.
Seeboden-Alp, the 84.
Seedorf 80. 81.
Seegruben 344.
Seehorn, the Gross- 338.
Seehorner (Silvretta) 338.
Seekopf, the 404.
Seelibuhl, the 137.
Seelisberg 77.
Seelisberger Kulm 77.
— See 76. 77.
3een 45.
Seengen 126.
Seeriiti 65.
Scesvenna, Yal 392.
— , Piz 391
Seethal, the 125.
Seewen 96.
Seewinen Glacier 319.
Seewis 336.
Seez 265.
Seez, the 44.
Seezberg, the 44.
Seeztlial, the 44. 66.
Sefinenalp, the 150.
Sefiinenfurgge, the 151.
Sefinenthalj the 150.
Sefinliitschine, the 150.
Seftigschwend 137.
Segl 375.
— , Lej da 375.
Segnas 351.
Segnes Glacier 66. 346.
— Pass, the 66. 346.
— Piz 66.
Segno, Piano di 354.
Scgrino, Lago del 434.
Seidenbach, the 109.
Seigne, Col de la 263.
Seignel^gier 188.
Seilon, Col de 263. 282.
300.
— , Chalets 282. 296. 800.
Seiloz, La 265.
Sela, the 377.
Selbsanft, the 60.
Selden 177.
INDEX.
tSelkingen 292.
■Sella Pass, the 386.
— Glacier, the 386.
|— , Pointe 310.
I—, Bifugio (Mont Blanc)
253.
— , — (Lyskamm) 314.323.
— , La 386.
Sella-Lake, the 107.
Selnau 36.
Selun, the 42.
Selva 352.
Selvas, Muot 876.
Selzach IS.
Sembrancher 275.
Semione 355.
SemnoB, the 243.
Semogo 396. 399.
Sempach 19.
— , Lake of 19.
Sempione 288.
Semsales 227.
Sena, Pizzo di 394.
Sengg 166.
Sengie, CoUe 272.
— -, Punta 272.
Sengla, la 301.
Senk, Am 288.
Sennebrunnen 64.
Sennhof 45.
Sennthum 306.
Sennwald 54. 328.
Sense, the 182. 192.
Sent 393.
Sentier, Le 198.
Sentigraben, the 138.
Sentis, the 54.
Seon 126.
Sepey, Le (Ormont) 226
— (Val d'H^rens) 301.
Septimer, the 370.
Seranastga, Alp 348.
— , Piz 848.
Serbelloni, Villa 430.
Seregno 435.
Serena, Col de la 279.
Serenbach, the 43.
Serengia, Piz 351.
Sergnement 280.
Sergnieux 258.
Serlas 388.
Sermenza, Val ^^.
Semens 337.
Sernf, the 60. 65.
— Thai, the 65.
Sernio 398.
Serpentine, the 282.
Serra, la 389.
Serra Neire 904.
Serrant, Pont 265.
Serr^ 274.
Serriferes 189.
Sertena, Alp 410.
1
Sertig-Dorfli 342.
Sertig Pass, the 342.
Sertigthal, the 342.
Servaplana 231.
Serviezel, Bain 393.
ServoB 246.
Sesia, the 322. 424.
Sesia Joch, the 314.
— Glacier, the 322.
— Valley , the 322. 423.
Seasa, Val di 431.
Sesto 435.
Sesto-Calende 416. 421.
Setherbach, the 349.
Sether Farke, the 66.
— Tobel 66.
Sett, Passo di 370.
Settimo Vittone 270.
Seuzach 30.
Sevelen 3%.
Sevenen, Alp 289.
St. S^verin 230.
Sevey 273.
Sevreu, Col de 281.
Stfvrier 243.
Sewelistock, the 98.
Sex Rouge, the 225.
Seyon, the 185. 187. 189.
Seyssel 238.
Sfazzu 896.
Sgrischus, Lej 386.
Sichellauenen 161.
Siders 284.
Sieben Brunnen, the 178.
Siebnen 40.
Siedelhorn, the Great 168.
— , the Little 168.
Siedeln Glacier, the ill.
Siegmundsried 403.
Sielva 402.
Sidroz, the 240.
— , Gorges du 240.
Sierre 284.
Siggenthal 21.
Signalhom, the 338.
Signalkuppe, the (Monte
Rosa) 313. 318. 333.
Signau 121.
Signayes 280.
Sigriswyl 139.
Sigriswyl-Grat. the 139.
Sihl, the 19. 32. 70. 92.
Sihl-Briicke, the 70.
Silberhom, the 154.
Silberstock, the 60.
Silenen 99.
Sils. (Engadine) 375.
» in the Rheinthal 366.
— , Lake of 375.
Silvaplana 377.
— , Lake of 376.
Silvenoire 271.
INDEX.
477
ilvio, Moate 816.
ilvretta, the 388. 380.
ilmtte Clnbhut 888.
ilvretta Glacier 338.
ilvrettahora, the 338.
iJmtta Pass, the 388.
melihora, the 159. iflO.
melipasa, the 288.
mme, the 178. 181 etc.
, f*n of the 178.
, the Little 182.
mmenegg, the 181.
mmenfluh, the 181.
Mmenthahthel78.181.
Simon 240.
■npeln 288.
Bplon. the 288.
Hospice 288.
»estra, Val 393.
>gen 23.
>^°e, see Sense.
'8 398.
n283.
llayens de 298.
Monastery of 41.
nne, the 283.
nach 46.
'olteivjoch, the 288.
kon 79. 97.
Qonda, Signal 267.
ach 11
achcr Flnh, the 12.
eIn-Thal 17.
one. Monte 375.
5n283.
ir, the 46. 53.
irthal 46.
7jg2 IQQ
Uadun,'thel06.352.
254.
mo 424.
a, Val 272. 275.
za 364.
0 371.
Val 355.
Piz 332.
lino Fall 413.
ex 230.
ers. Rains 338.
ite4S4.
, Val 410. 426.
Bridge, the 367.
re or
mm 13.
a Proz 265.
icona 354.
jval 10.
. 413.
arc 421.
a 421.
ariva, Villa 429.
erau 12.
irikopf, the 67.
Sommet des Vignes 234.
Somvlz 349.
— , Val 349.
Sonadon, Col du 277. 282.
— , Glacier dn 277. 282.
Sonceboz 10.
Sonchaud, Mont 218.
Sondalo 399.
Sondrio 397.
Sonlerto 418.
Sonnenberg, nearLnceme
71. 74.
— near Ziirich 31.
— near Aeschi 171.
— near Seeliflberg 77.
Sonnighom. the 320.
Sonogno 412.
Sonvillier 187.
Sonzier 218. 228.
Soragno 410.
Soreboifl, Col de 802.
— , Come de 302. 804.
Sorenberg 124. 164.
Sorengo 409.
Sorescia, the 107
Somaz, the 194.
Some, the 9.
Sorreda Pass, the 348.
Sort, Golle dl 273.
Sorvilier 10.
Sosto, Mt. 354.
Sottile, Ospizio 823.
Souste, La 284.
Soyhiferea 9.
Spadlatscha, Val 366.
Spaniola, la 381.
Spannegg 59. 43.
Spannort. the Great and
Little 115.
Spannorthiitte, the 115.
Spannort Joch 98. 115.
Sparrhom, the 286.
Speer, the 42. 57.
Speicher 52.
Spersils 391.
Spescha, Porta da 61. 861.
Spicherfluh, the 120.
Spiellau See, the 851.
Spielmatte 141. 142.
Spiert 381.
Spiessbriicke. the B09.
Spiez 139. 170.
Spieewyler 137. 170.
Spin, Val 389.
Spinabad, the 341.
Spino 371.
Spinoel 384.
Spiringen 63. 98.
Spissa 822.
Spissbach, the 147. 148.
Spissenegg, the 117.
Spitalmatte, the 174.
Spitelruti 62.
Spitzalpelifltock, theHin-
tere 110.
Spitzberg,thel04.111.
Spitzen, the 63.
Spitzliberg, the 105.
Spltidatsch, Castle 369.
Spltigen 360.
Spliigen Pass, the 361.
Spoccia 417.
Spol, the 389. 394.
Spondalonga 400.
Spondinig 402.
Spontiskopfe, the 335.
Sporeralp, the 406.
Sprengibriick, the 105.
Spmga 418.
Sprung, the 57. 868.
Sraors, las 384.
Staad d27.
Stabbio Alps, the 865.
Stabbio-Grat, the 364.
Stachelberg, Baths of 60.
Stafa 38.
Stafelalp, the 109.
Stafeli, the 44.
Stafeln. the 109.
Staffa 317.
iStaifelalp, the (near Zer-
matt) 815.
— (Turtmann Valley) 806.
StalTeli 115.
Staflfelwald 297.
Stalden in the Visp Valley
308. 321.
— , on the Pragel 64.
— , in theSimjnenthal 178.
Staldenbach, the 109. 137.
Staldenegg, the 138.
Staldengarten 65.
Staldenhom, the 287.
Staldenried 306. 321.
Stalla 369.
Stallerberg, the 359.
Stalusa-Bridge, the 350.
Stalvedro 369.
Stalvedro, Stretto di 102.
Stammerspiiz, the 393.
Stammheim 30.
Stampa 872.
Stampbach, the 140.
Stand, the 115.
Stans 113.
Stanserhom, the 113.
Stansstad 117.
Stanz, see Stans.
— , Valley of 404.
Stapf, In der 817.
Starkenbach 57.
Starkenstein 57.
Starlera. Val 359.
Starzlenbach, the 64.
Statz, Lake of 379.
Statzer Horn 368. 333.
478
INDEX.
SUubbach, the 14&
Staubende Bruolce 105.
StauberbMh, the 109.
StaabfaU(Adelboden)171.
Staubi, the 62.
SUafberg, the 20. 126.
Stsyelatsch, Fnorda 360.
— , Alp 360.
Stavelchod, Val 389.
Stechelberg 161.
Steckborn 90.
StefOsburg 136.
Steg 45. 171.
— , Zum 297.
Steshom, the 172.
Steig 56. 23.
Steigli-Egg, the 88.
Stein, Zum 122.
— KU Baden 18.
— , in the Griaons 368.
— , on the Rhine 17. 24. 90.
— (Toggenbure) 67.
Steinach, the &.
— , Castie 49.
Steinalp-Biiaen, the 113.
Steinbach 65.
Steinberg, the 122.
— , the Lower 160.
— , the Upper 160.
Steinen 94. 96.
Steinen-Aa, the 94. 96.
Steinenberg 94. 96.
— Alp, the 151. 171.
Steineme Tisch 49. 327.
Stein-Glacier, the 122.
Steinli, the 51.
Stein-Limmi 122.
Steinhaufl Alp 122.
Steinaberg 390.
Steinthal, the 57.
Steinthalhom, the 307.
Steinthali, the 64.
Steje, Becco delle 269.
Stella, Como 397.
Stellihom, the 319. 320.
StelU-See, the 315.
Stelaerberg, the 337.
Stelvio 401.
Stel^o Paas, the 400.
St. Stephan 178.
Stemschanse, the 89.
Stiegenlos, the 14.
Stierenfall, the 115.
Stieren-IiHgenalp 179.
Stilffl 401.
Stilfser Joch, the 400.
Stille Bach, the 393. 402
Stockach, the 26.
Stockalp, the 169. 293.
Stockalper-Ganal 232.
Stock Glacier 268. 302.
Stockerli 40.
Stock gron, the 61.
Stockhom, the 137. 181.
Stockje, the 302. 316. 316.
Stockknubel, the 318.
StoU, Acqua di 371.
8too8, near Brunnen 78.
Storegg, the 115. 118.
Stoss, near Qaia 53. 328.
iStoflfli 109.
Strada 393.
Strahlegg, the 157.
Strahlegg, Buins 337.
Strahlegghomer 167.
Strahlhom, the 315. 819.
Strasflberg, Buina 343. 867.
Straaaenhaoa 406.
Strattligen 137. 181.
Strela-Alp, the 341. 344.
Strela Paaa. the 344.
Strengen 404.
Strengmatt 99.
Streaa 420.
Stretta, La 394.
— , Piz della 394.
Strich, Zum 317.
Strim Alp, the 361.
Strim Glacier 110. 351.
Strimthal, the 110. 361.
Strona, the 290. 291. 424.
Strubel Glacier 172.
Strubelegg, the 172.
Stuben 403.
Stiickliatock, the 123.
Studerfim, the 169.
Studerhom, the 160.
Studeijoch, the 168.
Stufenateinalp, the 152.
Stulaergrat, the 342.
Stumaboden 336.
Stiirvia 357.
Stftaalineen 20.
Stttts 116.
Stiitz, Kloateracho 338.
Stutz-Alp, the 338. 346.
Stutzberg, the 76.
Stutzeck Tunnel 97.
Suberg 11.
Subigen 16.
Sublage, le 226.
Suchet, Mont 192.
Siid-LenzBpitze 3X).
Sueglio m
Sufera 360.
Suggithunn, the 146.
Sugiez 197.
Suhr 19. 20.
Suldalp 171.
Suldbach. the 171.
Sulden 401.
Suldenthal, the 401.
Sulden Glacier, the 401.
Suldthal, the 147. 171.
Sulegg, the 146. 147.
Sulgen 46.
St. Sulpice 19a
Sula, Alp 146.
8ula«nna341.
— , the Val 341. 388.
Suls, the 156.
SuUfluh, the 837. 406.
Sumiawald 16.
SumYlx 349.
Suna 291. 419.
Sundgraben, the 140. 144.
Sundlauenen 140.
Suort 393.
Superaax, Caatle 396.
Sur 369.
Sura, Alp 346. 360.
Surava 343. 366.
Surenen Paaa, the 116.
Surette, Val 360.
Surettahom, the 369. 301.
Surlej 377.
SurleJ, Alp 377.
— , the Fuorcla da 377.
— , Piz 377. 385.
Sur-lea-Boia 243.
Surovel, Alp 377. 383.
385.
SurpaUz, Val 362.
Surrhein 349. 361.
Sur Saaa 393.
Sur Seiaaa 369.
Suraee 19.
Suraura, Piz 888.
— Glacier 889.
— , Val 389.
Sii Som 389.
Siia 389.
Suaaaca, the 338. 339.
Suaer Thai, the 838.
Suaaillon 308.
Suaten 284.
Suaten Alp, the 123.
Suaten-Homer 122. 123.
Suaten-Limmi 122. 10&.
Suaten-Scheidegg.tbe 122.
Sutt Foina, Alp d68.
Suvoroff Bridge 63.
Suvretta, Val 379.
Suzanfe, Col de 233.
— , Alp 334.
Suze, the 10. 187.
Tabaretta Kamm 401.
Tabor. Mont 316.
Taborberg, the 331.
Taconay, Glacier de 247.
Tacul, Glacier du 249. 263.
— , Montblanc du 203.
263.
— , Cabane du 263.
Tafema-Bach, the 193.
Tagertaehi 124.
Tagerweilen 29.
TaglUferro, the 322.
INDEX.
479
Taglioni, Villa 492.
Tagstein, CuUe 366.
Taill^, Lac dea 190.
Taino 416.
Talamona 896.
TalSfre, Aig. de 254.
-, Glacier de 249. 264.
Talent, the 192.
Talloirea 243.
ramaro, Monte 410.
Fambo Alp 360.
rambohorn, the 360.
Pami^, Col de 242.
ramina, the 332. 333.
Gamins 346.
Paneda IW.
'anioges 231. 245. 265.
'annenalp, the 118. 120.
anney, Lake of 232.
anzbodeli, the 147. 171.
anzenberg 75.
fcpiaz, La 252.
irasp, Caatle 381.
, Baths of 391.
trent&ise, the 242. 265.
irtsch 402.
isch 309.
sch-Alp, the 320. 321.
schhorn, the 312. 320.
sch- Pass, the 319.
schthal, the 309.
sna. Val 390.
flishorn, the 178.
;8chbach, the 114.
ibenloch 10.
ibenfltein, the 356.
ibwald, the 306.
ifers 400. 402.
agnaflco 269.
anaaa 349.
annes 10.
el 216.
erna. Villa 432.
erne 408.
stsch 351.
tfomp^ 351.
he Valley of 351.
>rdo 426.
hio, al 860.
nau 12.
Ino, Val 397.
o 397.
Becca de 278.
342.
Chapel (nearKiiss-
ht) 91.
3ar Biirglen) 96.
i,ke of Lucerne) 79.
Platte, the 79. 97.
;cio, Colle di 272.
ibui^, the 172.
the 150.
hat, tbe 152. 173.
Tendre, Mont 196.
Teniger Bad 349.
Teiyi, Val 349.
Tenneverge, Pointe de
254.
— , Col de 254.
Tenniken 12.
Tennwyl 126.
Tec, Pizzo di 394.
Termine, Val 102.
Temu, Val 3S2.
Temate 416.
Terrarossa, Punta di 287.
Terrassa 270.
Terri, Piz 348.
Terrible, Mont 9.
Territet 217. 218. 220.
Territet-Chillon 218.
— Glion 220.
Tersiva, the 271.
Terzen 43.
Teael Alp 66.
Tesserete 410.
Tessin, see Ticino.
Tessonet, Oresta del 272.
TSte Blanche 268.301. 315.
Tdte de Bois, the 276.
Tdte k V6a 305.
Tdte Noire, the (near the
Col de la Forclaz) 257.
^ (near St. Oervais) 246.
Tdte de Bang, the 187.
Teufelsbriicke, the, in the
Reussthal 105.
— near Murren 150.
— in the Sihlthal 92.
Teufelsmiinster, the 77.
Teufelsstein, the 99. 105.
Tenfelsthal, the 367.
Teufen 66.
Tgietlems, Chalets 352.
T^etschen, Piz 109. 848.
Thai *327.
Thalalp-See 69.
Thalbach, the 160.
Thaleggli, the 122.
Thalheim 30.
Thalibach, the 319. 363.
Thaliboden. the 319.
Thalkireh 346.
Thalligrat, the 298.
Thaltistock, the 121.
Thalwyl 38. 40. 113.
Thayingen 23.
Th^odule Glacier, the 309.
313
— , PavUlon du 309. 313.
Th^odule Pass, the 309.
313. 314. 324.
Theodnlhorn, the 309.
Thi^le or Toile, the 191.
ThiMeorZihl,thell.l84.
Thiengen 22.
Thierachem 136.
Thieralplistock, the 122.
Thierberg, the 106. 122.
Thierberg Oletscher 179.
Thierberg-Limmi, the
105. 122.
Thierbergli, the 122.
Thierfehd, the 61.
Thierweid 55.
Thon 60.
Thdnes 243.
Thonon 231. 238. 256.
Thorishans 192.
Thrangibach, the 58.
ThuiUe. the 266.
— , La 265. 274.
Thun 136.
— , Lake of 138.
Thur, the 30. 31. 46. etc.
— , the Weisse 57.
Thurgau, Canton 45.
Thunn, the Aeussere and
Innere 319.
Thurmberg, the 144.
Thusis 366.
Tiarms, Pass da 352.
— , Piz 352.
— , Val 362.
Tiatscha Pass, the 338.
Tiatscha, Val 393.
— Glacier 389.
Ticino, the 102. 108. 292.
415. etc.
— , the Canton of 103.
Tiefenau, Bridge of 16.
Tiefenbach 111.
Tiefengletscher, the 111.
Tiefenkasten 368.
Tiefenmatten Glacier 302.
316.
Tiefensattel, the HI. 122.
Tiefentobel, the 111. 342.
Tigial, Alp 366.
Tignes 266.
Tignet 272. 274.
Tilisana Hut 405.
Tine, La 228.
Tines, Les 250. 256.
Tini^re, Col de la 219.
Tinzen 369.
Tinzenhom, the 366.
Tinzenthorpass 366. 369.
Tirano 397.
— , Madonna di 397.
Tisch, Val 366.
Titlis, the 115. 120.
Todi, the 61. 349.
— , the Biindner 349.
Todi, the Lesser 351.
Todtalp, the 404.
Todtensee, the 170.
fToggenburg, tbe 56.
480
INDEX.
Toggia, Valle 296.
Toile or ThiMe, the 191.
192.
Toma, Aua da 352.
Toma-See, the 302.
Tomiliasca 356.
Tomliaalp, the 90.
Tomlishorn, the 89.
Tomiil, Piz 348.
Tonda, Col du Mi. 261.
— , Mont 261.
Tenia, La 395.
Tonzanico 432.
Torc^, Becca 269.
Torgnon Glacier 800.
Tornico, the 418.
Tomo 4ol.
Torre 355. 397.
Torrent, Col de 302.
— , Val de 302.
Torrentalp, the 175. 302.
Torrenthom, the 175.
Torrigia 431.
Torrone, Piz«o 375.
Torta, Val 338. 414.
Tosa, the 290. 296. 419 etc.
— , Falls of the 296.
Tosens 403.
Toss 45.
Toss, the 31. 45.
Tongues 231.
Tounot, the 306.
— , Alp 306.
— , Lac de 305.
Tour 259.
— , Aig. de la 252.
— , Aig. du 254.
— , Col du 254.
Tour, Glacier du 254. 269.
— d'Ai, La 221.
— d'Arbo^ 274.
— de Boussine 282.
— de Duin 222.
— de Mayen 221.
— Noire 254. 256.
— de Peilz, La 216. 220.
— SalliJires, La 233.
— de Trdme, La 227. 182
Tourbillon, Castle 284.
Tourme de Bouc 281
Tournalin, Grand 810.
Tournanche, Val 310.
— , Col de 314.
Tournelon Blanc, the 281.
Toumeresse, the 228.
Toumette , Mont (Isfere
Valley) 242.
— (near Annecy) 243.
Tours 242.
Tour-Ronde 282.
Tourtemagne 285.
Tovo 398.
'rachsellauenen 160.
Tracht 164.
Tracuit, Alp 304.
— , Col de 306.
Trafoi 401.
— Bach, the 401.
Trafoi Glaciers, the 401.
Trais Fluors 380.
Trajo, Glacier de 271.
Tramelan 10.
Trasquora 287. 289.
Travers 189.
— , Val de 189.
Traversi^e, Bee de la
273.
Travi- Tunnel and Via-
duct 108.
Trelb 77.
TrelatSte, Glacier de 261
— , Aig. de 261.
— , Col de 254. 261.
— , Pavilion de 261.
Tr^lechamp 266.
Tr^lex 210.
Trdme, the 227.
Tremettaz, Alp 227.
Tremezzina, the 430.
Tremezzo 430.
Tremoggia, Piz 376.
Tremoggia Pass, the 876
Tremola, Val 108.
Tremorgio, Lago 414.
Trepalle 399.
Tresa, the 415. 425.
Tresa, Ponte 426.
Tresculmine Pass 365.
Tresenda 397.
Tresero, Piz 400.
Tresserve 239.
Tre Uomini, Passo 366.
Trevano, Villa 409.
Trezzo 433.
Tribschen 116.
Tribulation, Glacier de la
273.
Tricot, Aig. du 281.
Triage, the 258. 284.
Trient 257. 258.
— , the 257. 223.
— , Col de 257.
— , Glacier de 254.268.276.
— , Gorge du 223.
Trift Alp (Saas) 820.
Trift Glacier, the 121. 122.
305. 320.
Triftgrat, the 320.
Trifthom, the 804. 820.
Trifthutte, the 121.
Triftjoch, the 304. 316.
Triftllmmi, the 122,
Trift Valley 121.
Trimbach 12.
THmmis 829.
TrinitJi, Monte della 412.
Trins 846.
Trinserhom, the 66. 966.
Triolet, Aiguille de 264.
— , Col de 263.
St. Triphon, OUon 221.
Triquent 258. 234.
Trisanna, the 404.
Tritt, the 61.
Tritthom, the 107.
Trobaso 418.
Trogegg 179.
Trogen 52.
Troisrods 191.
Troistorrents 233.
Tronchetj Pont 277.
Trons 349.
Tnib 124.
Triibbach 338.
Trubinasca, Piz 398.
Trubschachen 124.
Triibsee, the 121.
Trubsee-Alp, the 115. 121.
Trudelingen 63.
Trugberg, the 168.
Triimleten Thai, the 16i.
Triimmelbach, the 148.
151.
Truns 349.
Trupchum, Val 388.
Triittlisberg, the 179. 225.
Tsanteleina. the 273.
Tschaguna 405.
Tschalmeten 172.
Tschamut 352.
Tschanuff, Ruins 383.
Tschappina 346. 867.
Tschentenbach Gorge.the
171.
Tschera, Piz la 369.
Tflchiertschen 344.
Tschierva, Piz 388^
— , Vadret da 383.
Tschienra - Scerscen,
Fuorcla 386.
Tschingelalp 151. 171.
Tsehingelberg, the 66.
Tschingel Glacier 151.
152. 173.
Tschingelgrat, the 149.
Tschingelhom, the (Lau-
terbrunnen) 149. 152.
Tschingelhomer, the
(Sernfthal) 66.
T8chingellochtlghoml72.
Tschingeln-Alp 44. 66.
Tschingelnbach. the 66.
Tschingel-Pass 162. 173.
Tschingeltritt, the 152.
Tschuepis 181.
Tschuggen 156. 389. 344.
Tsours, Les 252.'
Tiibach 49.
Tuekett, Col 271.
INDEX.
481
Tttckettopitze, the 401.
TumeiD 3i6.
Tummeaen 306.
Tuoi, Val 338. 390. 405.
Tuorg, Val 341. 366.
Tnrba, Val 359.
Turbach Valley 179. 182.
m
Turbenthal 45.
Turgi 18. 22.
Tiirl, Lake of 37.
lurlo, Col del 322.
Tarlo, the Little 434.
-, Mte. 322.
Turr, La, Castle 358.
Purratsch, Castle 372.
rurtig 285.
'urdnann 285.
'urtmann Glacier 306.
- Valley 285. 306.
iisch, Val 44.
asean 366.
nrann 184.
wariberg, the 87.
ndall, Col and Pic 316.
eudet, Glacier 277.
intre, D6&16 de la 182.
:ello, Piz 364.
berlingen 27.
berlinger See 24. 27.
:iitland, the 193.
;htsee, the 196.
i Alp, the 61.
ikon 38.
tech, Piz 367. 388.
chinenthal 172. 173.
chinenthali 172.
iberg, the 36.
kon 3^.
rn, Alp 351.
/al 363.
ass, the 354.
>iz dell' 351. 354.
u. Island of 39. 40.
e 242.
c. Alp 366.
Val 393.
ben 292.
tiflhom, the 320. 321.
•ail Paas, the 400.
ail, Piz 400.
leuerborn, the 338.
innen, Ruins U3.
-Aar aiacier 169.
Aletsch 294.
lip Pass 101. 352.
Bergli. the 139.
; Buchberg, the 41.
Bgeri 94.
ggem 48.
lulL 163.
Ei>£KKic, Switzerland. 12th Edition.
Unterfiiren 122.
Unter-Gabelhom, the 315.
Unter-Gschwand 87.
Uixterhom, the 346.
Unter-Laret 339.
Unter-Lavtina, Alp 44.
Unter-Miistail 367.
Unter-Mutten 357.
Unterschachen 63.
Unterschwand 114.
Untersee, the 24. 30.
Unterseen 142.
Unter-Siez-Alp 66.
Unter-Sihlwald 37.
Unter-Solis 357.
Unterstalden, the 137.
Unter-Steinberg 150.
Unterstetten 87.
Unterterzen 43.
Unterwald 297.
Unterwalden 118.
Unterwasser 55. 57.
Unterzell 23.
Uomo, Piz deir 102. 107.
— Pass, the 103. 354.
Ur, Alp d' 387.
Uratstocke, the 122.
Urbachthal, the 166.
Urden Furkli, the 344.
Urdenthal, the 344.
Urdorf 68.
Urezas, Val 390.
Urgbach, the 403.
Uri, Canton 80. 97.
— , Lake of 79. 97.
Rothstock 115. 80.
Urio 431.
Urlaun, Piz 61. 349.
Urlichen 292.
Urmein 346.
Urnasch 46.
Urnenalp, the 166.
Umer Boden, the 62.
— Loch, the 105.
— See, the 79. 97.
Ste. Ursanne 9.
Urschai, Val 390.
Urseren 106.
— , Valley of 105. 111.
Urswyl 126.
Urtier, Val d' 271. 272.
Urwangi Alp 77.
Urweid, Innere 167.
Useigne 299.
Usmate 433.
Ussel 268.
Ussin 810.
Uster 40.
Uttigen 135.
Uttwyl 29.
Utzensdorf 15.
Utznach 41.
Utzwyl 46.
Vachey, La 264.
Vadalles, Les 227.
Vadret, Piz 339.341.384.
Vadura 332.
Vaduz 328. 406.
Val Dobbia, Col di 323.
— Rhein 360.
— Toumanche 310.
— Tiisch, Alp 44.
Vala, the 352.
Valais, the Canton 283.
Valaisan, Mt. 265.
Valbella 366. 368.
Valcava 389. 392.
Valdentro, Col di 287.
Valdobbia, Col di 323.
Valeille, Vallone di 272.
Valendas 346.
Valens 331.
St.Valentina.d.Heide402.
Valeria, Castle 284.
Valettes, Les 275.
Valgronda-Joch 350. 369.
Vallatsch 348.
Valle 101.
Valine Blanche 253.
— des Morts 277.
Valleiry 238.
Vallesina, the 425.
Valletta, Pizzo la 107.
Vallettes, Les 232.
Vallorbe 198.
Vallugn, Piz 366. 369.
Valmaggia 424.
Valmaggia, Bocchetta di
297. 414.
Valmara, the 415.
Valnontey 271. 272.
— , Vallone di 271.
Valorcine 256.
Valpellina 267. 285. 280.
300
— , Col de 267. 301. 316-
Valpelline 280. 282. 300.
Valprato 272.
Valrhein, Piz 363.
Vals am Platz 348.
Valsainte 182.
Valsavaranche 272.
Valser Berg, the 348.
— Thai, the 348.
Valserine, the 238.
Valsorey, Col du 276.
— , Aiguilles du 276.
— , Glacier du 276. 277.
— , Valine du 276.
Valtellina, the 397.
Valtenigia, Alp 349.
Val Torta 338. 414.
Valtournanche 310.
— , Glacier 309. 324.
Valtravaglia, Porto 415.
417.
31
482
Valunrank 833.
ValEeina 396.
Van d'en hant 233.
Vaneacha Pass 348.
Vanin, Oolle di 294.
VanKone 317.
Vaprio 435.
Varallo 423.
Varemb^ 207.
Varen 176. 284.
Varenna 428.
Varens, Aig. de 242. 245.
Vare8e434.
-, Lago di 434.
Varia, Val 289.
Varrone. the 428.
Varzo 290.
Vasannenkopf, the 332.
Vasevey, Col de 282.
Vason 3d2.
Vassena 482.
Vassoncina, Alp 290.
Vattis 332.
Vaud, see Waadt.
Vauderens 195.
Vaulion 196.
— , Dent de 196.
Vaulpuz 195. 227.
Vaumarcus, Castle 191.
Vaux 282.
— La 214. 220.
Vazerols 368.
Veeehia, Dent! di 410.
Vecchio, Passo 862.
Vedeggio. the 406.
Vcdro, Val di 289.
Veisivi, Dents de 300.
Velan, Mont 277.
Veltiin, see Valtelllna.
Vence 276.
Venddme 211.
Veney 244.
Veni, Val 263.
V^noge, the 192. 220.
Venosta 399.
Vent, Lacs de 324.
Verare, the 217.
Vereina Pass, the 338.
St.Verena, Hermitage 14.
St. Verenathal, the 14.
Vergeletto 413.
Vergiate 421.
Verlome Loch, the 856.
Vermunt-Pasfl, the 405.
— Glacier 405.
— Thai, the 406.
Vernate 410.
Vemayaz 223.
Vernela Pass, the 338.
Vernex-Montreux217.220.
Vernok Pass 348.
Verollley, Chap, de 223.
Verona, Pis di 396.
INDEX.
Verra Glacier, the 314.
— Pass, the 314.
— Torrent 824.
Verraux, Rochers de2l4.
Verr^s m 334.
Verri^res Sais8es,Les 190.
— Fran^aises, Les 190.
Versam 345.
Versasca 367.
Versegere 280.
Vers r:^glise 225.
Versoix 210. 219.
Verstanklahom, the 338.
Verstanklathor, the 838.
Versasca, the 412.
— , Val 412.
Vesenaz 207.
Vesool 9.
Vespran 372.
Vessona, Col de 368.
V^troz SS33.
Vevey 214. 216. 230.
Veveyse, the 215. 220. 237.
Vex 396.
Veyrier 306. 238. 243.
Veytaux 217.
Veytanx-Chillon 220.
V^zeronce, the 288.
Vezia 406. 410.
Vezio, Torre di. Bain 429.
Via Mala, the 357.
Vial, Piz 348. 349.
Vicosoprano 372.
St. Viator, Bocher de 340.
Vi&ge 285.
VieiUe 371.
Vierwaldstatter See 74.
Viesch, see Fiesch.
Vieyes 271.
Vi6ze, the 233. 234.
Viganella 290.
Vigens 348.
Vigezzo Valley, the 413.
Vignolo, Villa 430.
Vigoni, Villa 439.
Vilan, the 336.
Villa near Airolo 393.
— (Val Bregaglia) 371.
— (Val d'Ossola) 290.
— (Val d'H^rens) 399.
— (Vrinthal) 348.
ViUair 364.
ViUard-sons-Mont 338.
Villards, les 344.
Villars 321.
ViUaret 266.
Villars-Lussery 197.
Villaz-St-Pierre 194.
Ville d' Issert 265.
Ville sur Sarre 267.
Villefranche 268.
Villeneuve in the Aosta
Valley 366.
Villenenye, Lake of Ge-
neva 219. 230.
Villeret 187.
Villers-le-Lac 188.
Villette, La 261.
Villmergen 18. 20. 126.
Villy, Ch&tean 345.
— (on the Diosaz) 354.
Vilters 338.
St. Vincent 368.
Vincenthiitte, the 333.
Vincent Pyramide 814«
333.
Vindels, Alp 332.
Vlndonissa 17.
Vingthnit 281.
Vintschgau, the 402.
Viola, Val 395.
, Pass 385.
Vioms 368.
Vionnaz 232.
Viry 238.
Vialetto 413.
Visp, or Vispach 286.
— , the 286. 306. 321.
— , the Gomer 308. 312,
816. 821.
— ,the Saaser 306. 320. < 21.
Vispach 285.
Visperterminen 306.
Vissoye 303.
VitelU, Val 400.
S. Vitiore 366.
Vitznaa 75.
Vitznaner Stock 76.
Viverone, Lago di 270.
Vivlers 240.
— , Grotto 232.
Vizan, Piz 369.
Vocca 424.
Vogealles 234.
Vogelberg, the 363.
Vogelisegg 48. 62.
Voge\joch, the 363.
Voghel, Mt. 269.
Vogna, Val 333.
Vogogna 290.
Vogomo 413.
Vogtsruhe, the 144.
Voirons, the 306.
VoUensteg, the 306.
Vorab, the 346. 66.
Voralper Renss, the 104.
Vorarlbere. the 406.
Vorauen 64.
Vorburg, Castle 9.
Vordei^Glamisch 64. 69.
— Meggen 91.
— Bheinthal', the 840.
— Thierberg^e 132.
— Valzeiaa 386.
— Waggithal 10.
Vouame, Chalet dtt 211 •
IMDKX.
483
Voaafloon, Pointe de 299.
Voagy m
Vouvry 232.
Voza, Col de 260.
Vrenelisgartli, the 64.
Vrm348.
Yrinthal, the 348.
Vuache, Mont 288.
Vaadens 227.
Vaffleiu, CasUe 212. 220.
Vuibei Glacier 299.
— , Serra de SCO.
Vmflternenfl 195.
VuUj, Mont 197.
^ulpera 391.
i^abem 134.
Vadenswyl 39. 40. 92.
Vagenhaiuen 24.
Vagenliicke, the 60.
V^aggis 75.
V^aggithal, the 40.
l^agneren Ravine 143.
^ahlalp, the 181.
.^aid, near Zfirich 81.
-, near St. G&llen 48.
'^alchwyl 90.
'aid near the Bachtel
41. 45.
near Trogen 62.
aldbrand, the 146.
aldegg 86.
aldenbarg 12.
aldhaiuer, the 847.
aldi Alp 64.
aldiberg 109.
Udibrucke 125.
ildisbalm, Grotto 75.
ildnacht-Alp, the 116.
Jdnachtbach, the 116.
IdBhut 22.
Idspitz 159.
Idstatt 46.
lenboden, the 66.
lengeatad 44.
len-See, the 42.
lenstadt 44.
Lake of 42.
kringen 126.
lenbragg 66.
lenbahlflm, the 105.
Igau, the 405.
lisbachlen 296.
lisellen 45. 40.
tensburg 349.
tersfirren Alp 109.
;eiihausen 49.
ipfien 181.
dautk 286.
le 301. 302. 316.
i GHacier 319. 821.
ren 13. 24. 30. 40.
pL 63.
Wannehorn, the 293.
Wart 66.
Wartau, Caatle 828.
Wartburg,19eu-,Ruin8 13.
Wartcgg, Castle 51. 327.
Wartenfels 13.
Wartenaee, Castle, in the
Bheinthal 51. 327.
— near Sempach 19.
Wartenstein , Pens. A
Ruins 381.
Warttannen 181.
Wasen 100.
Wasenegg, the 161.
Wasenhorn, the 287.
Wasserauer 54.
Wasserfluh, the 20.
Wasserwendi 163.
Watt 18.
Wattenwyl 137.
Wattingen 99.
Wattwyl 57. 41.
Wauwyl 19.
Weggis 75.
Wehrastrasse 21.
WTeiach 45.
Weinburg, Castle 49. 827.
Weinfelden 45.
Weingarten, Castle 295.
Weissbach, the, near In<
terlaken 146.
— (Simplon) 287.
Weissbad, the 63.
Weissberg, the 359. 369.
Weisse Frau, the 178.
Weisse Knott, the 401.
Weissenau, Ruins 140
lU.
Weissenburg 181.
— , Baths of 181.
Weisseneck Tunnel 187.
Weissenried 177.
Weissenstein, the, in the
Orisons 366.
— near Soleure 14. 9.
Weissensteinhom 348.
Weissfluh, the 340. 343.
Weisshom (Rawyl) 180.
— (near Zermatt) 316.
— (Fluela Pass) 889.
— (Arosa) 344.
— (Parpan) 344.
— , Hotel 305.
Weissmies, the 289. 820.
Weiss tannen 44.
— Valley 44. 66.
Weissthor. Old 314. 318.
— , New 313. 314. 318.
Weisa-WaiMntels 45.
Weitenalpstock, the 110.
Weiterschwanden 63. 98.
Wellborn, the 161.
Welschtobel, the 344.
Wenden Glacier, the 122.
Wendeigoch, the 115.
WendenstSeke, the 120.
Wengen 153.
Wengem-Alp, the 153.
Scheidegg 155.
Wengi, Baths of 68.
Wengistein, the 14.
Weniesegg 138.
Wenslingen 12.
Werben 64.
Werdenberg 58.
— ;. Castle $28.
Wergisthalbach, the 155.
Werthenstein 123.
Wesemlin, Honast. 71.
Wesen 42.
West-Lenzspitse 820.
Wetterhom, the 160.
Wetterhomhutte 158.
160. 162.
Wetterlimmi 162.
Wetterliicke, the 151. 177.
Wettingen 18.
Wettschwyl 68.
Wetzikon 41.
WetBsteinhom 180.
Wichlen Alp, the 66.
Wiehtrach 185
Wicki 104.
Widderfeld, the 88. 114.
Widderfeld-Alp, the 159.
Widerstein-Furkel43. 65.
Wiedikon 36.
Wienachten 51.
Wiesberg, Castle '404.
Wiesendangen 45.
Wiesen 842.
Wiggen 124.
Wiggerthal, the 19.
Wiggis, the 66. 60.
Wilchingen 22.
WUd-Andrist 160.
Wilde Frau, the 171. 151.
Wildegg 21.
Wildenstein, Castle 21.
Wilderswyl 141. 147.
Wildgeissberg, the 120.
Wildgerst, the 160.
Wildhaus 57.
Wildhom, the 179. 180.
225.
— Club hut 179. 225.
WildkirchU, the 54.
Wildspitz, the 94.
Wildstrubel 174. 179.
— Glacier 172. 179.
Wiler 176.
Willigenbriieke 162. 166.
Willisau 19.
Wimmis 137.
Windegg, the 121.
Windgallen, the 110.
31*
484
Windg&Ue, the Schachen-
thaler 68.
Windgalle Tunnel 99.
Windisch 17.
Winenthal 126.
Winkel 116.
Winkelmfttten 311.
Winkeln 46. 138.
Winterberg, the 104. 123.
Winter Glacier HI.
Winteregg,the Obere 149.
Winterhorn, the 106.
Winterjoch, the 104. 122.
Winterliicke. the 111.
Winterthnr 45.
Wissbach Glacier 167.
Witholz, the 49.
Wittwe, the 173.
Wohlen 18. 20.
Wohlhausen 19. 123.
Wolfenschiessen 113.
vSt. Wolfgang 339.
Wolfhalden 51. 327.
Wolfsberg 24. 30.
Wolkenstein 24.
Wollerau 39.
Wollishofen 38. 40.
Worb 125.
Wormser Joch, the 400.
Worth, Schlosschen 26.
Wraunka-Tobel 393.
Wulflingen 45.
— , Hoch- 45.
Wiilpelsberg, the 21.
Wiinderbrunnen, the 120.
Wiirenlos 18.
Wurmspach, Convent 41.
Wiir/enegg 123.
Wutach, the 22.
Wydenbach 70.
Wyhlen 21.
Wyl 46. 56.
Wyla 45.
Wylen 49.
Wyler 99. 120. 122.
Wyleralp 119.
Wylerfeld, the 16.
Wylerhorn, the 119.
Wyneck 329.
Wynigen 16.
Wysserien 113.
Wytenstein, the 79.
Wyttenwasser Glacier,
the 108.
Yberg, Ruins 57.
INDEX.
Tverdon 191.
Yvoire 231.
Yvonand 194.
Yvorne 220.
Ywerber Pass, 107.
Ywerherhorner, the 107.
Za, Aiguille de la 300.
Za de TAno 304.
Zarde-Zan, Col de 300.
— , Glacier de 267. 300.
301. 302.
Zadrell, Fuorcla, 338.
Zagengrat, the 174.
Zanfleuron Glacier 225.
226. 230.
— , Alp 179. 226. 284.
Zansler, the 55.
Zapport Alp 363.
— Glacier, the 348.
Zapportgrat, the 348. 363.
Zapporthorn, the 368.
Zarcnns 351.
Zarmine, Col de 300.
Zasenberg 157.
Zaaenberghom, the 157.
Zat^, Col du 304.
-, Pointe de 304.
Zatelet Pras 302.
Zavragia Ravine 349.
Zaziwyl 124.
Zelg 51.
Kell 45.
S^«nna 415.
Zewchmiden 321.
Zerbazi^re 259.
Zerbion, Mt. 268.
Zermatt 311.
Zermeigeren 320.
Zemetz 388.
Zertannen 317.
Zervreila 348.
Zervreila, Val 348,
Zexnina, Val 389.
Zgra^enthal, the 100.
Zxegelbriicke 40. 42. 58.
Zisiorenove, Glacier de
Zignao 349.
Zihl, the 11. 184.
ZilUs 363.
Zimmerberg, the 70.
Zimmeregg, the 123.
Zimmerwald 134.
Zinal 304.
f
Zinal, Gladsr de
— , Pointe de 304.
— Bothhom 304. '
Zinkenftocke, thci]
ZiteU 369.
Zitterflteg, the
Zizers SS^.
Zmeiden 306.
Zmutt 315.
Zmuttbach, the
Zmutt Glacier,
309. 315.
Zmutt Valley,
Zocca, Pasao dT
— , Monte di
Zocchetta, Alp
Zoflngen 19.
ZoUbriick 16.
ZollhauB 142. IC
ZoUikofen ll. It
ZoUikon 38.
Zozanne, Lac
Zucchero, Mont
Zug 69.
— , Lake of 90.
Ziige, the 341.
Zuger Berg, the
Zum Dorf iU.
Zum Loch 296.
Zum See 309. 31
Zum Steg 297.
Zumsteinspitze
323
Zum Strich 317.
Zunzgen 12.
Zupo, Piz 38f:.
ZurchersmuhJe
Zurich 31.
— , Lake of 3T.
Ziirichbergf the
Zurzach 45.
Zustoll, the 42.
Zuz 388.
Zweidlen 46.
Zweiliitecfainen U
Zweisimmen 182.
Zwillinge, the 3ii
Zwillings-Pass,
Zwingen, SchloM
Zwing-Uri 99.
Zwingli Pasa 65.
Zwischbergea Pi
321.
Zwischen-Thlerl
122.
Zwltaer Egg, the
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