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LIBRARY
UMIVERSITY GF CALIFORNIA
RIVERSIDE
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Switzerland
A HANDY COMPANION
FOR THE TOURIST
Published by the
SWISS FEDERAL RAILROADS
241 Fifth Ave., New York
Printed in U. S. A.
■.J .
Via Mala Gorge near Thusis
1^^^ Swit^rland
SWITZERLAND is admittedly synonymous with scenery.
The first impression the mind receives is that of a panorama
of marvelous scenic beauty, showing nature at its finest. Switzer-
land is the Rest Seeker's Delight where every mountain vale
is a hidden paradise, endearing in its simple, natural charm and
uplifting in the incomparable grandeur of its beauty. A realm
for rest, recuperation and recreation. It is the Perennial, Re-
juvenating Fountain of Health where many of Mother Earth's
finest mineral springs have been put to medical use in wonder-
fully equipped establishments and in regions whose bracing
Alpine climate is another vital and priceless factor in the achieve-
ment of successful cures. Here in the carefree surroundings
where delightful pastimes and up-to-date sports are the order
of the day. Health, Strength and Youth may become yours. It
is the Realization of a Beauty Lover's Dream where azure
lakes, flower-strewn pastures and fragrant pine forests repose
like precious gems in a setting of glorious mountain heights.
The land where sight-seeing can be done in utmost com-
fort, whether it be by the ancient diligence, the ultra mod-
ern post-automobile, mountain railway or lake steamer. It is
the Motorists Paradise where some of the finest built Alpine
roads and some of the most exquisite mountain regions have
lately been thrown open to automobiles, so that from the verdant
plains to the realms of perpetual snow and ice motorists can
now travel with perfect ease, while vistas of Swiss life in town
and country open before them in kaleidoscopic splendor. It
is the Student's Guide Through the Ages where the eventful
epochs in the history and development of the Old World from
the period of the lake dwellers on, are vividly portrayed through
many priceless gems of ancient art and architecture. The haunt
of lovers of the quaint and curious, and an inspiration to those
who finish their education in one of the country's numerous
private or public schools. And finally it is the Land of Pictur-
esque Customs and Costumes where century-old traditions arc
still honored and observed by the generation of today. Mod-
ernists as caterers to tourists but charmingly old-fashioned in
their private life and personal beliefs — such are the Swiss of the
beauteous Alpine realms. Make it your pleasure to know them!
[3]
USEFUL HINTS
Season
While the great majority of tourists visit Switzerland
between middle of July and the end of September, May and
June are ideal months for those who wish to enjoy besides
the scenery, the vegetation and Alpine flora at their best.
Snow disappears in the lowland as early as middle of March,
so that some of the resorts along the Swiss-Italian lakes and
the lakes of Geneva, Thun and Lucerne, show signs of lively
animation during the Spring months.
Spring, Summer and Autumn in the land of the Alps are
continued periods of enchantment and providers of endless
opportunities for every conceivable variety of sports and
diversions, but Switzerland in Winter too has become the
rendezvous of the world's leaders in sports and fashions.
Expenses
The cost of a tour depends, of course, upon the tastes and'
purse of the individual traveler. Generally speaking, Switz-
erland is one of the least expensive countries in which to
spend a holiday. The ordinary tourist's daily expenditure,
exclusive of special guides, may be estimated at from $4 up.
Hotel Accommodation
A great comfort to know is that the Swiss hotel service is
just as efficient in a small establishment as in the largest
hostelry. The tourist has every opportunity of finding just
the sort of hotel which will suit him. In the large and
magnificent palaces the wealthy guest will find every comfort
and luxury that he is accustomed to, while those with more
[4]
modest requirements have every want supplied by the less
pretentious hotels.
While the daily rate on the "American Plan" for transient
guests is from $5 up in the very best class hotels, the charges
in first and second class establishments range from $2.75
to $5. For a stay of at least 5 days in the same hotel a
pension rate is granted. There are also boarding houses,
called Pensions, where guests for longer periods are received
at rates of as low as $2 a day.
Railroad Tickets
Single tickets are good for one day (day of issue). Ex-
cursion tickets (both ways) issued at 209?? reduction, have a
validity of ten days. Children from four to twelve years
are charged half fare; over twelve full fare. Parties of
from twelve to sixty people are granted 20 per cent, re-
duction on the fares and parties numbering from sixty-one
to one hundred and twenty people are entitled to 30 per
cent, reduction.
Swiss Season Tickets, available 15 and 30 days, permitting
unlimited travel by rail or steamboat over more than 3000 miles.
The holders of Season Tickets are entitled to reductions on the
ordinary fares on a number of Railway Companies not included
in the Saison Ticket system.
Swiss Combined Tickets, for journeys of not less than 300
km, available 45 days. Reduction 20%.
A ticket can be composed of rail and steamboat coupons of
different classes ; it can also include postal autocar coupons, but
for the latter no reduction is allowed on the ordinary fares.
International Combined Tickets for journeys of not less than
500 km. The validity of tickets is 45 days for journeys of 500
to 1000 km, 60 days for 1000 to 3000 km and 90 days for
journeys exceeding 3000 km. Reduction on Swiss sections 20%.
[5]
Baggage
No free baggage is allowed on the Swiss railways, except
hand luggage, that can conveniently be placed in the luggage
racks. Travelers should under no circumstances seek to take
into the compartments heavy or bulky luggage, but should avail
themselves of the easier method of having it registered.
As a rule, only personal effects, in trunks, gladstone bags,
etc., can be registered. The following objects can also be
registered, provided they belong to passengers traveling by the
same train : Perambulators, invalid chairs, bicycles and motor-
cycles for one person (with benzine or petrol tanks properly
emptied or electric accumulators removed), skis, ordinary luges
and toboggans (bobsleighs excepted) ; also commercial travel-
ers' sample trunks. The weight of any package must not exceed
100 kilos.
Customs Examinations
At frontier stations. Passengers or their duly authorized
representatives must be present at the Customs' examination of
their luggage, which takes place at the frontier stations.
In transit via Switzerland. Luggage registered through to
destinations beyond Switzerland is not examined by the Swiss
Customs.
In Switzerland. Should the owners of luggage registered
through to Berne, Coire, Interlaken, Lausanne, Lucerne, Lu-
gano, Montreux, St. Gall, St. Moritz, Vevey or Zurich not be
present at the frontier station when the Customs' examination
takes place, such luggage will be sent on to the inland Customs'
Offices at the aforesaid stations, where it will be examined.
Passport
Citizens of the United States intending to visit Switzerland
need no Swiss visa. The presentation of the passport at the
frontier is sufficient to enter or leave Switzerland. This applies
also to subjects of the following countries : Great Britain &
Colonies, France, Belgium, Holland, Sweden, Norway, Den-
mark, Luxembourg, Spain, China, Japan and South American
States.
[6]
, In Transit Via Switzerland
With the exception of nationals of the above mentioned coun-
tries, passengers travelling to destination beyond Switzerland
should apply for a SWISS TRANSIT VISA, which is given
free of charge by any Swiss Consulate or by the Control-officer
at the Swiss Frontier station, when entering Switzerland.
Tennis
This has become so favorite a sport in Switzerland that
visitors can enjoy a game in whichever part of the country
they may make a sojourn. International tournaments are ar-
ranged regularly.
Fishing
Devotees of this ever fascinating sport can tour the land
of the Alps in all directions without ever having to deprive
themselves of the companionship of a rod. While fishing js
free in many parts of the country, the licenses and fishing
tickets sold in the restricted sections are issued at ridiculously
modest rates.
Boating
Water sports in this land of lakes and rivers are, of course,
at their best and the Swiss rowing and sailing clubs welcome
foreign visitors as temporary members. International regattas
are a special feature on many of the big lakes and Venetian
night festivals are another attraction which are always enjoyed
by the summer guests.
Golf Links
List of links : Brunnen, Engelberg, Flims-Waldhaus, Geneva,
Interlaken-Thun, Lausanne, Les Rasses, Lucerne, Lugano, Mal-
oja, Montana, Montreux-Aigle, Ragaz, Samaden, St. Moritz,
Thun, Villars, Vulpera-Tarasp and Zurich.
[7]
Walking and Mountaineering
In a beautiful country like Switzerland one cannot and should
not resist the lure of tramping and climbing. Mountaineering
is greatly aided by the efforts of the Swiss Alpine Club (S. A.
C.) which has erected club huts in all important positions, and
keeps them in admirable condition. Trained and experienced
guides are to be had wherever necessary. Some of the most
important points for starting high Alpine tours are : Grindel-
wald, Lauterbrunnen, Meiringen, Engelberg, Kandersteg, Evo-
lene, Zinal, Zermatt, Pontresina, etc.
Difficult high Alpine tours should not be undertaken without
guides and not at all by travelers who have not had any previous
training for this strenuous task. Inexperienced persons desir-
ous of exploring the mountain regions should avail themselves
of the fine and comparatively easy, but most attractive walking
tours over the bridle paths and Alpine highways leading from
beauteous pasture land to many unique points of view.
Se'fx'ial Recommendation
One should not fail to include a sail on one of the lakes,
automobiling over one of the passes, an ascension of one of the
mountains by railroad, a visit to one of the famous ravines or
gorges, and a walk through at least one of the many old pic-
ture towns. In this manner the tourist will gain impressions
of Switzerland that will long remain pleasant memories.
THE TOUR
At least six weeks are required for a visit to Switzerland's
chief places of scenic interest, but glimpses of the most
beautiful and most characteristic features of the country may-
be enjoyed in a more limited period, provided a careful pro-
gram is made in advance. A little forethought and study will
materially add to the enjoyment of such a tour, which should
be planned so as to take in several of the typical sections.
Thus, whenever possible, the itinerary should include a trip
on one of the lakes, a coaching or automobile tour over one
of the passes, an ascension of one of the mountains by rail-
road, a visit to one of the famous ravines or gorges and a
walk through both an old and modern town. In this manner
the tourist will gain impressions of Switzerland and the Swiss
which will forever remain pleasant memories.
Entering the country at Basle, the gate of Switzerland, as
it is frequently described, where many of the principal rail-
way lines of Europe meet, the following route may be con-
sidered as the most beneficial to see the country on an initial
visit to the land of the Alps and can serve as a basis for
journeys of shorter or longer periods.
Northwestern Switzerland and the Jura
Basle, 860 feet a/s, the old Basilea of the Romans, is safely
enthroned upon the stately banks of the Rhine, where that
majestic river, dividing the town into two sections, known as
Klein-Basle and Gross-Basle, dashes in a sweeping curve
towards the north.
After gaining its independence in the early Middle Ages,
[9]
the city acquired international fame after the Council of
Basle (1431-1448), one of the consequences of which was the
foundation of the university in 1460. The city then became
the residence of the most learned scholars and celebrated
artists of that period. In order to better protect herself
against the covetous Austrian nobility of the neighboring
Alsace and Breisgau, Basle joined the Swiss Confederation in
1501 and ever since has remained a Swiss city.
Basle's characteristic landmark is the Cathedral, since the
Reformation known as the Miinster. Like its sister temples
on the banks of the Rhine it is a truly magnificent building
and altogether unique in its lines and coloring. The material
used is a brilliant red sandstone and the roof is covered with
green, white and red tiles fhat look like enamel. Emperor
Henry II founded the Miinster in 1010 a.d., and the orginial
structure was in the Byzantine style ; in 1356, a fire, resulting
from an earthquake, did great damage and the church was
consequently rebuilt in Gothic and consecrated anew. The
northern portal, known as St. Callus Gateway, remains of the
original Romanesque construction, its statues, reliefs and
ornamentations being well preserved. The choir is also of
that period, while the western front, towers and other parts
are of the later Gothic.
To the east, adjoining the Cathedral, is a beautiful old
cloister, wonderful in its solemn effect, with some of the
richest and most varied tablets in Renaissance and Baroque
style.
The Cathedral terrace, shaded by fine old chestnut trees and
known as the Pfalz, overlooks the Rhine Valley and the Black
Forest.
Nearby on the Market Square, is the Town Hall, an imposr-
ing Gothic structure with a remarkable, delicately carved
front. Its iron gate is like a great window shade, embroidered
in open-work. All over there are statues, doors of carved
[10]
Basic
wood and in a prominent position, the coat-cf-arms of Basle,
held on one side by the Holy Virgin and on the other side by
Henry H.
As an ancient seat of culture and learning, Basle possesses
a most noteworthy Historical Museum in the old Barfiisser
Church. Among the many priceless treasures shown therein
are relics of the Basle "Death Dance," the Cathedral plate,
tankards, bowls ^lud jewels of the various Guilds; the carved
altar of St. ]\Iary Calanca; war trophies and weapons; heir-
looms of Erasmus of Rotterdam, etc. A curiosity with a
rather humorous touch is a quaint piece of mechanism, known
as the Lallenkonig. This figure used to stand on the bridge
tower, facing Klein-Basle, and pulled out its tongue every
quarter of an hour with absolute regularity. At one time the
figure was taken to be an insult to Klein-Basle, on the other
side of the Rhine; this, however, is now denied and it is said
that the Lallenkonig was meant to be an expression of cordial
contempt for all outsiders in general. At all events it was
removed in 1839.
Opposite the entrance to the museum is a handsome foun-
tain with exquisite figures representing Samson and 'Delilah.
Basle, like other mediaeval cities in Switzerland, prides itself
with several handsome fountain statues. Of these, the
Fischmarktbrunnen, a 15th Century Gothic piece of work, the
Spalenbrunnen, with bagpipe players and peasants' dance, after
Diirrer and Holbein, and the Rebhausbrunnen, in German
Renaissance, are the most noteworthy.
In the Augustinergasse is the Museum with a picture gallery
interesting for its paintings and drawings by the two great
artists Hans Holbein and Arnold Bocklin, both natives of
Basle.
Basle is a veritable gem for well-preserved mediaeval
architecture. Besides the Cathedral, 10 churches dating from
the Allddle Ages are still existing; among these St. Alban's
[12]
with early Romanesque cloisters ; the Dominican Church with
a graceful vane on the roof, and the Barfiisser Church — now
containing the Historical Museum — with an exceedingly high
chancel. Among the public buildings of the Middle Ages,
there are some richly decorated guild houses, also imposing
City Gates of real artistic value. The Spalcngate, built at the
beginning of the 15th Century and which, in 1473 was deco-
rated by a front structure and graceful statues, the work of
Sarbach, is declared to be the most beautiful specimen, but
the St. Johanngate and the St. Albangate are also interesting
mediaeval reliques.
A noble monument portraying Helvetia presenting the
crown of victory to the heroes of St. Jakob an der Birs, com-
memorates that glorious battle, which was fought in the
environs of Basle on August 26, 1444. "Our souls to God, our
bodies to the enemy" was the war cry of the gallant 1300
confederates who opposed an army of 40,000 barbaric
Armagnac invaders, led by the Dauphin Louis (afterwards
Louis XI).
Another exquisite monument, the Strassburger Denkmal,
presented to Basle in 1895, by Baron Herve de Gruyer, com-
memorates the assistance given in 1870 to the besieged City
of Strassburg, when delegates from Basle and Ziirich took
the women, children and aged people of that city into
Switzerland.
The neighboring village of Angst "Augusta Rauracorum"
boasts of remains of a Roman settlement with a spacious
amphitheatre.
Rheinfelden (940 feet a/s), is renowned as a delightful
Spa with excellent saline springs, the strongest of the kind
on the European continent. It is a quaint old town with walls
and towers dating back to the feudal days of the Middle Ages.
Stein-Sackingen, the latter sung in Scheffel's immortal
poem, is passed en route to
[13]
Brugg, (1160 feet a/s) whence we will visit Roman
Vindonissa — with ruins of an amphitheatre and the Castle
of Habsburg, the cradle of the former Austrian Imperial
family. The Castle of Habsburg dates back to the year
1020. The tower, with walls eight feet thick, is the only
part now standing which belonged to the original structure;
in it, the room said to have been occupied by Rudolph of
Habsburg is still shown. The Government of the Canton
of Argovie, which is the owner of the ancient stronghold,
has had the same renovated a few years ago. The adjoining
dwelling house, where refreshments are sold, is rented to a
farmer. Further on is
Baden (1256 feet a/s), the Aquae Helvetiae of the
Romans. It is an acknowledged fact that in Roman times the
principal military road of Helvetia led through Baden, con-
necting the watering-place with Vindonissa, the great Helve-
tian fortress, six miles away. In the year 1872, beyond the
Roman road in Baden, in the direction of Vindonissa, there
were discovered, in a fine state of preservation, the founda-
tions of a large connected block of buildings, which, when
fully excavated, revealed fourteen apartments of various sizes,
from 10 to 88 feet in length. The peculiar architecture of
the same, the numerous medical and surgical instruments and
utensils found there, the proximity of the before-mentioned
fortress, where Roman soldiers were stationed, the thermal
springs and the excellent arrangement already existing for
their use, all these facts make it clear that the building in
question served as a Roman military hospital.
Later on in the ]\Iiddle Age, the little watering-place, which
is picturesquely situated on the River Limmat, was a fortress,
and down to the 15th Century often the residence of the
Counts of Habsburg. With these ancient historic connections
the town possesses an Old World charm of its own and inas-
much as its equipments as a spa are faultless, this Swiss Baden
is constantly gaining in favor. Nearby beckons.
[14]
Morat
The Watering place of Loeche les Bains (Leul-c)
Wildegg, with another stately feudal residence dating
back to the 12th Century.
Schinznach (1046 feet a/s), is another well-known water-
ing place with hot sulphur springs of highly curative qualities.
Aarau (1171 feet a/s), a busy, intellectually inclined
town at the foot of the Jura, presents a captivating combina-
tion of the mediaeval and modern.
Olten (1220 feet a/s), is important as one of the busiest
railway junctions in the country.
Pursuing our course along the foot of the Jura, we presently
reach
Soleure or Solothurn (1298 feet a/s). In the years
272 A.D., when the Allemans threatened the Romans, a fortifi-
cation was erected on the river A.ar, where the present city
stands and remnants of walls of the same are still visible in
the Lowengasse and on the cemetery. A legend relates that
Ursus and Victor, two of the early Christians who had fled to
Soleure from Agaunum^ the present Saint Maurice in the
Rhone Valley, in the year 303, had been tortured and put to
death in Soleure by the Romans on account of their faith.
The Cathedral is dedicated to their memory and their suffer-
ings are immortalized by three reliefs on the facade.
The Cathedral of St. Ursus at Soleure, built by Pisoni in
1762-73 on a site, which, according to tradition, was formerly
occupied by a Roman temple to Apollo, is considered to be the
finest specimen of late Italian Renaissance in Switzerland.
Two interesting fountains, bearing statues of Moses and
Gideon, stand at each side of the imposing marble stairs which
lead in three times eleven steps to the entrance. Eleven
marble altars of exquisite design, individual masterpieces of
as many artists, add to the beauty of the interior, which has
been conceived in the shape of a Latin cross. The church
treasury in the sacristy contains a very ancient collection of
artistic work in metal and textile fabrics.
[16]
While the bustle of modern commercial life has trans-
formed the placid mediaeval quarters of Soleure — the city
now being recognized as one of the leading Swiss watch-
making centers — there still exists in the vicinity a little oasis
of absolute worldly peace, the Hermitage in the romantic
gorge of St. Verena.
Rocks and grottoes, clad with a verdure and foliage of the
most refreshing green, form the entrance to this appealingly
lovely shrine; a brook saunters merrily along the little road
and a choir of golden-voiced, feathered songsters offer their
never-ending anthems.
Then comes a burst of golden sunlight, an opening into a
tiny, but luxuriant patch of land, the hermit's domain. To the
right stands his dwelling house — a little gem in a setting of
rocks, shrubbery and flowers — to the left are two chapels of
diminutive dimension, but altogether ideal for quiet medita-
tion. A goat and a few chickens contribute to the hermit's
support and help to enliven this picturesque retreat.
Weissenstein (3920 feet a/s), with Kurhaus in close prox-
imity, is frequented as a summer resort and for winter sports.
It is one of the favorite points of view in Western Switzerland,
affording an unobstructed outlook on the whole Alpine
chain, from the Eastern Alps to the peaks of Savoy. A little
farther on is
Bienne or Biel (1332 feet a/s), situated on the lake of the
same name and dating back to those early days of the lake-
dwellers, is a thriving place with important watch factories.
Many delightful excursions can be made in this district, among
which the "Taubenlocli" Gorge and the heights of Macolin
are particular favorites.
One railway line branches off to Moutier, Delcmont and
Porrentniy and at Clovclicr, a station just before reaching
Porrentruy, another branches off to Saignclegicr, Noiremont
and La Chanx-de-Fonds.
[17]
Still another line serves the industrial towns of Sonceboz
and St. Imier (2670 feet a/s) whence a cal)le railway climbs
to Mont Soleil, (4100 feet a/s), a favorite summer resort and
winter sport place. From St. Imier the Mount Chasseral
(5280 feet a/s) can be easily reached.
La Chaux-de-Fonds (3267 feet a/s) and Le Locle (3109
feet a/s), just a little farther on, are world known for their
watch-making industry.
Neuchatel or Neuenburg (1433 feet a/s), is a prosperous
town charmingly situated on the lake of the same name and is
particularly well known as an educational center, with a
imiversity, a commercial college and a number of private day
and boarding schools.
The charm of the Lake of Neuchatel lies in its wide
expanse of pale green waters, in the uninterrupted view to
be enjoyed, especially from the Jura side, and in the gentle
loveliness of the vine-clad shores.
Besides trading vessels, a whole fleet of pretty passenger
steamers keep the traffic open on the Lake of Neuchatel as
far as Estavayer in the south, and from Neuchatel through
the Broye to the Lake of Morat.
The Lake of Morat or Murten, as well as the Lake of
Neuchatel have many relics of the lake-dwellers. Morat,
with its proud old Castle (1522 feet a/s) is an ancient little
town on the right bank of the lake named after it. It is
dear to all the Swiss, in memory of the great battle in
which the troops of the Confederation repulsed Charles
the Bold of Burgundy and his army. An electric railway
connects Morat with
Fribourg or Freiburg (2073 feet a/s), the capital of the
Canton of Fribourg, the ancient Uechtland.
The palm for artistic beauty should, with little doubt, be
awarded to this city, of which Ruskin writes : "No other
town has so faithfully preserved its mediaeval character."
[18]
This time-honored city was founded in 1178 by Berthold IV
of Ziihringen and occupies a rocky height almost surrounded
by the River Sarine. Fribourg, a pronounced Roman
Catholic center, is the seat of the Bishop of Lausanne and a
Roman Catholic University. The city's most revered place
of worship is the Collegiate Church of St. Nicholas, a marvel-
ous work of Gothic art, towering above all the roofs.
On June 8, 1182, Roger, Bishop of Lausanne, consecrated
the first place of worship at Fribourg. A century later, in
1283, the foundation was laid to the present edifice, of which
the Gothic nave was completed in 1343, the handsome tower,
with a winding staircase of 365 steps and 250 feet high, in
1492, and the choir in 1631. In 1512 the church received the
collegiate degree under Pope Julius II.
The main portal represents "The Last Judgment" in a most
impressive and dramatic scene. The lofty interior, with no
less than twelve side chapels, distinguishes itself by its impres-
sive spaciousness and harmony. To the right is the Chapel of
the Holy Sepulchre, dating back to 1433. The figure of Christ,
stretched out on the tomb, and the various emotion-filled per-
sonages surrounding Him — all cut in sandstone, form a note-
worthy group. Stained glass windows from the ancient abbey
of Hauterive, near Fribourg, decorate the choir and modern
stained glass is seen in the nave.
Of universal fame is undoubtedly the organ of the Fribourg
Cathedral and those who love music must hear this wonderful
instrument themselves, to appreciate the various efi"ects it can
be made to produce. Built in 1824-34 by Al. Mooser, whose
bust has been placed to the left of the entrance, it has 74 stops
and 7',800 pipes, some of them 32 feet in length. There may be
more powerful organs in Europe, but none surpasses this one
in its marvelous purity of tone. The ringing peals of praise
that fall, refined and rarefied, from the vaulted ceiling, the
golden, angelic arpeggios that are whispered through the
[19]
carved stalls, or the plaintive tones of prayer that penetrate
to the very altars of the side chapels, leave a perpetual
echo in the human soul.
With its university, its technical college and numerous other
public and private educational establishments, Fribourg is one
of the leading Swiss Roman Catholic centers of education.
The Lac Noir, Schwarzsee.(3365 feet a/s), a health resort
situated amidst Alpine scenery 25 kilometres south of Fri-
bourg, is much frequented.
From Lyss, on the line between Berne and Bienne, a
branch line runs via Morat up the valley of the Broye to
Avenches (Aventicum, the capital of Roman Helvetia) with
a beautiful mediaeval castle on a height, and then to Payerne.
The church and Benedictine Abbey at Payerne were
erected in the 10th Century by Queen Bertha of Swabia,
the wife of Rudolf II. Passing Moudon, a little town with
a noteworthy Gothic church, and the Chateaux of Carouge
and Rochefort the branch line joins the main line from
Berne to Lausanne at Palezieux.
Payerne is the junction for the railway connecting Fribourg
with the Lake of Neuchatel. The lake is reached at Esta-
vayer, where there is a picturesque chateau dating from the
12th and 13th Century. The line ends at Yverdon, a junction
with the line coming from Neuchatel, which follows the much
admired shores of the lake of this name all the way to
Yverdon (1433 feet a/s), a watering place with hot sul-
phur springs, renowned as very beneficial in cases of gout,
rheumatism and arthritism. There the traveler may board a
narrow gauge railway, which, rapidly ascending the verdant
and well-wooded slopes of the Jura, will at the end of one
hour bring him to
Ste. Croix (3510 feet a/s), which, together with its neigh-
bor Les Rasses (3950 feet a/s), is privileged as far as
climate is concerned. In summer, the burning and oppressive
[20]
Geneva
Castle of Chillon on lake Geneva
heat of the sun is always tempered by light breezes which,
combined with the bracing air of these altitudes, restore to
the visitor health, strength and energy. Golf course, 9 holes.
Lovely walks and excursions can be made in all directions,
along good roads or patlis, through beautiful forests of fir.
In winter the many slopes provide splendid surfaces for
ski-ing and tobogganing and Ste. Croix as well as Les Rasses
have in latter years gained fame as ideal winter sport centers.
Lake Geneva and the Rhone Valley
Coming from Yverdon we reach the region of Lake Leman.
This largest lake of Switzerland is at tlie same time consid-
ered to be one of the most beautiful, and as its shores have
always been a favorite abode of the world's greatest writers
and artists, its history and associations are truly of a classical
nature.
♦ Lake Leman or Lake of Geneva, under which latter name
this glorious expanse of water is generally known, presents in
all seasons a picture of unique and captivating charm. During
the summer months the dazzling sunshine sheds silvery
streaks on the sluggish ripples which spend themselves on the
beach. Then in the evening, when the mountains fade in the
mist and the stars twinkle in mischievous merriment above
the slumbering waves, when the white-sailed barques glide
gracefully and silently hither and thither, the spectator is
spellbound by the lake's enchanting loveliness.
In winter, when the entire country has donned its spotless
garments of ermine, the lake reposes like a precious sappliire
in a jewel case lined with white, and we too feel compelled to
echo the poet's appreciation :
"O blvte Leman, ever great, ever beautiful!
Would that my grave at least were o;i thy hoi lers!"
To visit the different towns and villages which line the
[22]
Swiss border of Lake Leman is like looking at a string of
carefully matched pearls.
Geneva (1243 feet a/s), the western gateway of Switzer-
land, at the southern end of the glorious lake, combines
beauty, wealth and intellect and oflfers all sports including
golf.
Geneva was occupied by a settlement long ago, but there is
no exact record when the colony began. Caesar found here a
town of the Allobroges that he called Geneva and he actually
cut the bridge over the Rhone which connected it with the
right bank of the river, in order to prevent the passage of the
Helvetes. When Gaul was organized under Roman adminis-
tration, Geneva was included in the province of Gallia Nar-
bonensis. The city adopted Christianity in the 4th. Century
and quickly became the religious capital of a great diocese.
Occupied in the 5th Century by the Burgundians, Geneva
formed part of the first kingdom of Burgundy, and fell along
with it, in 534, into the hands of the Franks.
In 888 the second Burgundian kingdom, east of the Jura,
was founded on the ruins of the Carlovingian Empire and
Geneva became one of its chief towns. The last king,
Rudolf III, left his crown to the Emperor Conrad the Salic
in the year 1032 and Geneva thus became an imperial city and
the local government, at that time administered by a Bishop,
was permitted to develop with considerable freedom. The
prelate was at the same time temporal ruler of the city and
spiritual head of a diocese partly occupied by nobles as power-
ful as himself, and in the end even more powerful. One of
these, the Count of Savoy, succeeded, after having destroyed
the power of the Counts of Geneva, his rivals, in possessing
himself of the episcopal castle and of the dignity of the
vide" :nat, or temporal function of the Church (in 1290).
From this moment the pretended claims of the House of
Savoy to sovereignty over Geneva took more and more the
[23]
character of veritable encroachments. It required all the zeal
of the citizens — municipal government had been instituted at
the close of the 13th Century — to prevent the same from
transforming themselves into possessions by force, which was
for some centuries the principal object of the Savoyard
princes.
The beginning of the 16th Century was marked by the
breaking out of the iinal struggle between the people of
Geneva and the Duke of Savoy, when the citizens were
divided into two parties, the Mamelukes, or followers of the
House of Savoy, and the Huguenots (from Eidgenossen —
Confederates). After having seen two of its patriotic chiefs
perish — Berthelier in 1519, and Levrier in 152-1 — the latter
party finally won the day. Treaties of fellow-citizenship,
made with the various Swiss Cantons, assured to Geneva a
security which only became definite and final after the adop-
tion of the doctrine of the Reformation, as preached by Farel,
in 1535. The episcopal authority was then abolished ; Geneva
became a Republic governed by syndics and councils elected
by the people.
On the fifth day of Augusit, 1536, there arrived in Geneva
the man whose name lives still in the town itself and in the
system of theology which is called after him — Jean Calvin.
He was a native of Noyon in Picardy, who espoused the new
religious belief and had gone to the French capital, but found
it necessary to seek an asylum abroad.
Calvin attached himself to the new party in Geneva and
soon acquired immense influence in that city as well as in the
whole of Europe. He established not only the Reformed
Church, but also the State ; he developed public instruction, at
that time already in a flourishing condition, founded the
Geneva Academy which became in those days the leading
school of Protestant theology with the gentle Beza, Calvin's
devoted friend, as its first rector. He worked out civil and
[24]
sumptuary laws, investing old institutions with a simplicity
and austerity which attracted the attention and obtained the
support of reformers in all countries, Geneva thus became the
stronghold of the Reformed P'aith and a refuge for persecuted
Protestants of all nationalities, especially Frenchmen. The
refugees soon assimilated themselves in their new home and
they and their descendants have greatly contributed to the
importance of Geneva, which was also visited by John Knox
when he was exiled from Great Britain.
The final emancipation of Geneva from Savoy occurred in
the year 1602, when the army of the latter, in the night of
December 11, in the midst of peace, treacherously strove to
surprise the sleeping city by climbing the ramparts. This
attempt, called "escalade," was a failure, and from that time
on to the French Revolution Geneva was able to develop its
own fortunes.
Jean Jacques Rousseau, son of a watchmaker, born in
Geneva in the year 1712, is one of Geneva's best known liter-
ary celebrities. He disapproved of the unjust distinction then
made between the aristocracy and the poorer classes and as
champion of the latter he exposed his convictions in the
"Contrat Social," which, together with his "Emile," were com-
mitted to the flames by the public executioner. But the very
descendants of his fierce opponents erected a statue in his
honor on the tiny island he — as an almost pious devotee to
Nature — loved so much and which is now known as Rous-
seau's Isle.
Rousseau gave the first impulse to modern mountain
worship. He especially loved wild and gloomy scenes and
tells us in his "Confessions" that he required "torrents, rocks,
dark forest, mountains and precipices." His description of
the retreat at Meillerie, given in the "Nouvelle Heloise," was
especially famous and among others deeply affected Goethe,
Byron and Shelley.
[25]
Gradually Geneva and its lake became the IMecca of leaders
in science and literature. Voltaire, Mme. de Stael, Georges
Sand, Dumas, Daudet and Byron, Gibbon, Dickens, Ruskin,
Frances Havergal, Sismondi, De Saussure, Amiel — a veritable
parade of illustrious poets, novelists, essayists, philosophers
and scientists — whose intimate connections with that fair
and intellectual city and its environs are forever interwoven
in its history.
After the French Revolution, Geneva was the capital of a
French Department, but in 1815, it became the 22d Canton
of the Swiss Confederation. Since that time, the history
of this city, as regards its foreign policy, has been identical
with that of the Confederation.
The actual founder of the Red Cross Society was Jean
Henri Dunant, a philanthropic citizen of Geneva. On June
14, 1859, he chanced to be present at the battle of Solferino
and was an eye-witness to the vast amount of unnecessary
suffering that resulted from the inability of the regular
surgical corps for the thousands of wounded who lay upon
the field.
Three years later he published a book on his experiences
and advocated an international convention to provide for
the aiding of the wounded in war. This convention, which
took place at Geneva and which was concluded and signed
on August 22, 1864, neutralized the surgical corps of hostile
armies and volunteer societies caring for the wounded. As
a compliment to Switzerland, the Swiss flag in reversed
colors, i. e., a red cross on a white field, was to be adopted
universally and worn on arm bands by all members of
the neutral staffs.
Geneva has since that time been the headquarters of the
International Red Cross Society, which distinguished itself
during the World War with its gigantic activity on behalf
of suffering mankind.
[26]
In the year 1864 the Alabama room in the City Hall, which
was formerly used for marriage ceremonies, was placed at
the disposal of the First International Red Cross Conven-
tion which was signed on August 22 of that year. In
memory thereof a marble tablet with the following inscrip-
tion was affixed to one of the walls:
"In this room on August 22, 1864, was concluded and signed
the Geneva convention for the betterment of the lot of wounded
soldiers of armies in the field."
A large oil painting shows the representatives of the different
powers on the point of signing the document.
This same room, in which the noblest sentiments of uni-
versal charity and fraternity have been displayed, was the
place of meeting of the famous Alabama Claims Commis-
sion from December 15. 1871,-September 14, 1872, which on
the occasion of the 32d conference ended the disputes
between England and the United States after the Secession
war. Great Britain wa; then obliged to pay $15,500,000
damages in favor of the United States.
Here was a first demonstration of the value of inter-
[27]
Les Avaiits — Montreux
national arbitrage to avoid wars and at that time already
the two powers in question chose as their meeting place the
City of Geneva in neutral Switzerland, where foreign influ-
ence did not P'revail. A marble tablet also commemorates
this historic event in this chamber, which then became offi-
cially known as the "Alabama Room."
The revised text of the Geneva Convention was further-
more also signed in the Alabama room.
In the year 1876 the Universal Peace Union of Philadel-
phia celebrated the foundation of the United States of
America and the tenth anniversary of its own existence.
The officers present at that meeting were overcome by a
profound consciousness of prevailing peace and offered their
swords to be converted into agricultural implements. One
of the members present, Thomas Atkinson, offered ten
dollars for the first cart which would be cast from the
metal of these weapons.
This cart figured first as a symbol of peace in the 1878
Paris Exposition and was then, by a unanimous decision of
the Universal Peace Union and through the intermediary
of Charles Lemonnier, President of the International League
for Peace and Freedom, offered to the city and people of
Geneva to be placed in the "Alabama Room" and to remain
there as a token of universal accord and peace.
In the .Alabama room we find, moreover, a small facsimile
of the gigantic Liberty Bell, which was cast in the United
States from the metal of swords and cannon on the occasion
of the Hundredth Anniversary of American Independence.
This little bell coming from the bell foundry at Baltimore
has now taken the character of a bell of peace destined to
announce to the whole world "Peace on earth and good-
will among men," and it bears the inscription:
"May this omblein of Peace engender the spirit which should
reign over the whole world."
[29]
Whether it be a stroll along the imposing promenades
skirting the lake, where the distant Alpine Chain with
Mont Blanc beckons alluringly, or whether it be through
the old and new quarters of the city, one encounters con-
stantly vivid proof of Geneva's dominant leadership through-
out the ages.
The very names of the streets, the rue Calvin, the rue
Necker, the rue de la Croix Rouge, the rue Voltaire, the
rue Farel, the rue Jean Jacques Rousseau, where Rousseau's
father lived, the Grand' Rue, where Rousseau himself was
born, are perpetual reminders of the city's glorious past.
During the war, as a compliment to the United States of
America, the rue d'Allemagne became the rue Wilson.
Old Geneva prides itself of St. Peter's Cathedral, that dig-
nified memorial to its spiritual leader Calvin. The construc-
tion of this edifice was started in the 10th Century, on the
site of an ancient pagan temple, and completed in the 13th
Century. Begun at a time when the round-arched Roman-
esque architecture was at its height, the structure was finished
when the Gothic period had attained its full glory. The inte-
rior, with fine stained-glass choir windows, is of rare, digni-
fied beauty and the magnificent Cathedral organ has for
centuries heen the delight of all music lovers.
In close vicinity to the Cathedral is the ancient City Hall
with the before-mentioned historic Alabama room and oppo-
site is the Arsenal, containing Geneva's Museum of History,
The College St. Antoine, founded by Calvin in 1559 and
restored in 1888, is a further testimonial to the great
Reformer, same as the University whose history dates back
to Calvin's Academy, also founded in 1559. The University
has acquired world fame and the numerous public and private
educational institutions, contributing to the industrial, intel-
lectual and artistic phases of life, are largely frequented.
Quite recently Geneva has been enriched by the Monument
[30]
of the Reformation which has been planned on the most com-
prehensive lines, so as to epitomize the history of the Refor-
mation throughout the world, and not merely that part of it
which took place in Geneva.
It is a great mural monument on the Promenade des Bas-
tions, where a remainder is left of one of the former city
walls, bearing the inscription "Post Tenebras Lux" (Light
after Darkness). The four figures of Calvin, Farel, Beza
and Knox stand in alto-relievo and heroic size in the center.
Eight panels, crowded with figures, are cut in bas-relief, with
appropriate inscriptions. The signing of tihe compact in
the cabin of the Mayflower is also pictured. This is an
international monument and France, Germany, Switzerland,
Scotland, Holland, England and the United States are
represented.
In addition to the before-indicated intimate historic and
spiritual connections with the leading nations of the world,
this remarkable monument forms another lasting and uni-
versal bond of mutual appreciation and understanding. And
last but not least Geneva as the Capital of the League of
Nations is more than ever interesting.
Coppet (1300 feet a/s), with its fine old castle reminds
of Jacques Necker, a Genevese, who became finance minister
to Louis XVI, and his brilliant daughter, Madame de Stael.
Nyon (1322 feet a/s), so much admired by Voltaire, is a
charming spot indeed, with ancient buildings and remark-
able 14th Century Castle. Nearby is Prangins with its
extensive buildings and parks where ex-Emperor Charles
of Austria, after the war, took up his first residence in
exile. From Nyon a railroad leads to the summer and
winter resort of St. Cergue (3432 feet a/s). Thence an
ascent may be made of The Dole (5595 feet a/s) the highest
point of the Swiss Jura.
[31]
Lausanne
Chateau d'Oex
RoUe (1325 feet a/s), with the charming health resort
Gimel (2395 feet a/s) and
Merges (1240 feet a/s) with its interesting old chateau
are delightfully restful spots and great favorites in the
artists' world. The well-preserved mediaeval Castle of Vuf-
flens, in close proximity, is well worth seeing. This ancient
stronghold is said to have been erected by Queen Bertha of
Swabia, wife of Rudolf II, 912-937.
Ouchy (1246 feet a/s), where Byron composed in 1817
his "Prisoner of Chillon" is the port of
Lausanne (1714 feet a/s), the city where Gibbon wrote
the last three volumes of his "Decline and Fall of the Roman
Empire."
Proudly seated on the lower slope of the Mount Jorat
and crowned by its ancient cathedral and castle, the beau-
tiful capital of Canton Vaud is as fascinating as it is pic-
turesque — with its steep streets, its high-pointed roofs and
its fine terraces overlooking beautiful Lake Leman and the
Savoy Alps.
On the Place Montbenon is the Federal Palace of Justice,
a beautiful building in the Italian Renaissance style, site of
the Supreme Court, the highest judicial authority in
Switzerland.
Lausanne has an enviable reputation as an extremely
healthy and pleasant residential town, enjoying a mild and
equable winter climate. It is a suitable place of residence
not only for the strong and healthy but also for the delicate.
As an educational center Lausanne is equally well known.
It possesses numerous public and private schools for both
sexes, headed by the university, which is attended by students
of all nationalities.
The social amenities of Lausanne are very great and there
are many excellent entertainments at the theatre, Kursaal,
Casino, etc. The rendezvous of the Anglo-American colony
[33 1
is at the English and American Assembly Rooms, close to
the English church. Sports of every kind including golf
flourish in this fair city and the skating-rinks and toboggan-
runs at Sauvabelin and at Ste. Catherine are scenes of con-
stant animation during the season of white.
Vevey (1263 feet a/s) has often been called the "Pearl
of the Leman." And well it deserves that name. The vis-
itor never tires of the magnificent panorama of mountains,
lake and open country which spreads before him in this
beauteous spot. Vevey is a center for agreeable walks and
excursions of great variety. A funicular climbs the Mont
Pelerin (2952 feet a/s), an all-year health and pleasure
resort. An electric line runs to the charming villages of
the vineyard section: St. Legier (1760 feet a/s), Blonay
(2000 feet a/s) and Chamby (2461 feet a/s), and a rack and
pinion railway makes the ascent from Chamby to the
favorite point of view of Les Pleiades (4542 feet a/s).
Another memorable excursion can be made into the pic-
turesque Gruyeres district, via Chatel St. Denis-BuUe-
Gruyeres-Montboven, returning via Chexbres.
Montreux (1310 feet a/s) with Clarens and Territet forms
undoubtedly one of the stellar features of Lake Leman.
Besides being endowed with an extremely mild climate
Montreux is also known for its excellent mineral springs.
All sports including golf. The nearby resorts of
Glion (2270 feet a/s) and Caux (3610 feet a/s) are con-
veniently reached by mountain railways, same as the
Rochers-de-Naye (6710 feet a/s), the "Rigi" of this region.
A sojourn at Montreux would, of course, be incomplete
without a visit to the Castle of Chillon. It has an unusu-
ally impressive situation on an isolated rock 22 yards from the
bank of the lake, with which it is connected by a bridge. Still
more impressive than its stately silhouette is the carefully
renovated interior of the castle with its gloomy dungeons.
[34]
"Chillon! thy prison is a holy place,
And thy sad floor an altar, — for 'twas trod
Until his very steps have left a trace,
Worn, as if the cold pavement were a sod,
By Bonivardl — may none those marks efface.
For they appeal from tyranny to God."
So sang Byron in his "Prisoner of Chillon," that classic
poem which will never die.
Montreux is the western terminus of the Montreux-Bernese
Oberland railway, connecting the Lake of Geneva with the
Lake of Thun. (See page 63).
Villencuve, an old-fashioned little town, already inhabited
in Roman times, is the last landing place on the northern
bank of Lake Leman. The Rhone flows into the lake three
miles to the west, near Bouveret and the Rhone Valley,
about one hundred miles long, extends from this district to
the Rhone Glacier (10,450 feet a/s), from which issues the
Rhone as a narrow stream. The first important community
in the Rhone Valley is
Aigle (1375 feet a/s), an attractive town with a spacious
chateau. A carriage road leads to
Corbeyrier (3280 feet a/s), and an electric railway to
Leysin (4150 feet a/s), the latter one of Switzerland's
most beneficial summer and winter health resorts. Another
railroad ascends to the all-year resort of
Les Diablerets (3815 feet a/s), whence we may cross the
Col de Pillon on foot or by diligence to Gsteig and Gstaad.
(See page 65).
An electric railroad runs also from Aigle by way of
Ollon to Monthey (1380 feet a/s), and into the Val d'llliez,
one of the most . exquisite Swiss Alpine valleys, with
Champery (3423 feet a/s) as the terminus.
Morgins (4405 feet a/s), a watering-place with chalybeate
springs, can be reached by diligence from Troistorrents
[35]
Pissevache Falls near Alartigny
station of the Monthey-Champery line and has, like Cham-
pery, become a winter sport center as well.
Continuing along the main line, the next spot which
deserves attention is
Bex-les-Bains (1427 feet a/s), situated at the foot of the
Dent du Midi (10,450 feet a/s), a watering place and clim-
atic resort of increasing importance. In fall it is much
frequented for the "grape cure." An electric railway con-
nects with the trio
Gryon (3716 feet a/s), Villars (4120 feet a/s), and
Chesieres (3970 feet a/s), favorite resorts in summer and
winter. A climb to the Grand Muveran (10,403 feet a/s)
from Les Plans (3612 feet a/s), a summer and winter
resort, is relatively easy. A little further on is
St. Maurice (1377 feet a/s), one of the most historical
places in the Valais. It was already a fortress in the days
of Julius Caesar. Its abbey was endowed by many kings,
emperors and potentates, some of Charlemagne's gifts to
it being still preserved in the treasury. One mile and a half
above St. Maurice are the much frequented
Baths of Lavey (1377 feet a/s).
Martigny (1564 feet a/s), is the starting point of the
scenic Martigny-Chatelard railway connecting Switzerland
with Chamonix and the Mont Blanc region. Few moun-
tain railways offer, considering the short distance, such a
wealth of picturesque and ever-varying scenery, the road
being boldly laid out on the surface of the mountain, over ro-
mantic gorges and in closest proximity of glistening glaciers.
Leaving Martigny the railway proceeds to Vernayaz at
the entrance of the Gorges du Trient. Immediately after
this station starts the only cog-wheel section of the line,
and with a maximum gradient of 20 per cent, it climbs the
rocky cliffs towering above Vernayaz, now directly below.
A wonderful and ever-extending panorama is unfolded
[37]
before the eyes of the traveler as the train mounts, and
after a short climb, which distinguishes itself by many
technical features, we reach Salvan (3230 feet a/s), a
popular summer resort.
Still ascending in curves through verdant pastures with
weather-beaten chalets clustering in the midst of them, the
train reaches the charmingly situated summer station of
Les Marecottes and continues its way over the precipitous
hill slopes commanding the Gorges du Trient, until it ar-
rives at Finhaut (4025 feet a/s), a picturesque village which
commands a unique situation opposite the Glacier du
Trient.
From here the line descends gradually to Chatelard and
then proceeds to Vallorcine, on the Franco-Swiss frontier,
where passengers change from the carriages of the Mar-
tigny-Chatelard Railway to those of the Paris-Lyon Medi-
terranean Railway, which latter line conveys them to
Chamonix.
From Martigny another railway leads to Sembrancher
(2330 feet a/s), and Orsieres (2894 feet a/s), connecting
here with the postal auto-bus service to the Great St.
Bernard Hospice (8110 feet a/s). From the Hospice the
road leads to Aosta (Italy).
The Great St. Bernard Pass is one of the best known
highways in the Alps. A temple of Jupiter stood in Roman
times, not far from the summit of the pass. In connection
with this place of worship the Romans also built a shelter
for the benefit of the Imperial messengers and soldiers.
Christian rulers transformed the same later on into a
regular Hospice, an inn for the accommodation of way-
farers, but it was destroyed in the 9th Century.
Later on, a wise and saintly priest of Aosta, Bernard "de
Menthon, erected a new Hospice on the summit of the
pass, on the border of a sombre little lake. This new
[38]
foundation grew rapidly, and although it had to undergo
numerous trials — several times it was destroyed by fire —
it constantly gained in importance.
The Hospice itself is a plain gray structure with a Hotel-
Annex catering to the ever-increasing number of tourists
during the summer season.
The monks who live and work at the Hospice, which is also
famous for its very beautiful church and valuable library, are
canons of the Order of St. Augustine. Most of them are
splendid specimens of manhood, but the hard climate of this
region is too great a strain for the strongest of them. Eight
or nine months in an isolated, snow-bound country, at an alti-
tude of 8110 feet a/s, combined with the constant dangers
connected with their heroic rescuing work, wears these brave
men out and it has therefore been found necessary that they
should be relieved at regular intervals. For this reason there
exists a constant interchange of men between the headquarters
of the order stationed at Martigny and the Hospice of the
Great St. Bernard and the one on the Simplon Pass.
''Life is very strict and simple at the Hospice, and the
original purpose of the foundation, to save poor wayfarers,
when the same have lost their way in a blinding snowstorm,
is still fulfilled to the letter. For this rescue work the monks
have some 20 wonderful assistants — not human beings, but
[39]
On the Gornergrat above Znnialt
Sion
dogs, animals which are famous throughout the world and
known as St. Bernard dogs.
From the time the dogs are little more than puppies, they
are gradually trained for the great work of life-saving for
which they are destined. It is reckoned that it generally
requires two years to teach a dog all he must know, before he
can be trusted out alone as a seeker and guide, and even then
his training is not stopped. The dogs are taught to find the
wanderers lost or buried in the snow; they are instructed to
bark when they have discovered someone and to wake up those
whom they find asleep. If the person thus discovered has the
strength to walk, the dog conducts him to the Hospice, but if
he is not equal to such an exertion, the dog will drag him for
a certain distance and then bark for further assistance.
During the winter months when the temperature is far
below zero, the snow is piled as high as 12 to 15 feet. Blind-
ing snowstorms are frequent during that season and it is just
in such days of peril that the monks and their dogs have to
work hardest of all.
A telephone connection was established between the
Hospice and the nearest villages on both sides of the pass
a few years ago, and the monks are now informed in advance
of the number of travelers bound for the Hospice. This, of
course, facilitates the rescue work. The dogs are so cleverly
trained that it is only necessary to indicate to them the direc-
tion and they will start ofif alone to meet the arrivals and to
lead them to the Hospice.
Champex (4821 feet a/s), a romantic summer resort with
a lake, is reached from Orsieres; and Chables, Lourtier,
Fionnay and Mauvoisin, all interesting villages in the
beautiful Valley de Baynes, are reached from Sembrancher.
The journey further up the Rhone offers many inspiring
sights.
Sion or Sitten (1710 feet a/s), capital of the Canton of
[41]
Valais and an episcopal see, with its two castles on iso-
lated hills, looks very picturesque. On the higher hill are
the ruins of the Castle of Tourbillon, erected in 1294 and
destroyed by fire in 1788, and on the lower hill to the right
stands the old Castle of Valeria with the beautifully
restored Church of Xotre Dame de Valere, dating back to
the 10th Century. In the town itself beckon the Gothic
Cathedral with a tower from the 9th Centur>% and the
Church of St. Theodule. From Sion we may pass into the
Val d'Herens, with Mayens de Sion (4267 feet a/s), a
favorite summer resort, and Evolene (4520 feet a/s),
Les Hauderes (4747 feet a/s) and AroUa (6572 feet a/s),
a trio of Alpine resorts whose somewhat secluded position
has endeared them to all lovers of rural Alpine beauty.
Sierre or Siders (1765 feet a/s) is the next important
place on the main line and the starting point of the
funicular railway climbing up to the well-known all-year
resort of Montana-Vermala (5120 feet a/s), with a
renowned 18-hole golf course. South of Sierre open the
Val d'Anniviers with Vissoye (4000 feet a/s), St. Luc
(5495 feet a/s), Chandolin (6350 feet a/s), Grimence and
Zinal (5505 feet a/s), a veritable galaxy of Alpine villages,
which form part of the "climbers' paradise."
Leuk (2470 feet a/s) is the starting point of a little rail-
way leading up to the much visited Baths of Leuk (4628
feet a/s), which have in recent years also been open in
winter for every variety of snow and ice sports. From
here a bridle path, easy and interesting, leads over the
Gemmi Pass — seven hours' walk — to Kandersteg (see page
61) in the Bernese Oberland. South of Leuk, a bridle
path leads to the summer resort of Gruben-Meiden in the
Turtmann Valley.
Viege or Visp (2155 feet a/s) is the starting point for
Stalden (2736 feet a/s), a beautifully situated village at the
[42]
entrance of the Valley of Saas, whence a remarkably fine
road leads to Saas-Fee (5900 feet a/s), one of Switzerland's
most celebrated Alpine health resorts and starting point for
numerous high Alpine tours for experienced mountaineers.
The "Dom," 14,940 feet a/s, is the most formidable summit in
this district.
From Stalden the train crosses boldly constructed bridges
and ascends through scenery of striking grandeur, to
St. Niklaus (3708 feet a/s), a favorite of those in search
of a restful spot. The line then follows the romantic
course of the River Visp, and still ascending, passes the
picturesque resorts of Randa and Tasch, both centers for
excursions into the high Alps.
Once more the train crosses the turbulent mountain
stream, for a brief moment the mountains draw closer, and
then comes a burst of light, a radiant expanse of velvety
pastures, with a group of nutbrown chalets and comfortable
hotels, a mountain silhoueted like a pyramid of marble against
the deep blue sky — Zermatt and the Matterhorn.
Zermatt (5315 feet a/s) has become one of the most
popular haunts of travelers in quest of sublime, unspoiled
Alpine scenery. In the morning when the Matterhorn (14,782
feet a/s) glistens in fairy-like splendor hardly a tourist can
resist the lure of an excursion to the Gornergrat. In one and
a half hours the railroad climbs to an altitude of 10,289 feet
into the realm of eternal ice and snow. Glaciers are below
and around, and in the distance on both sides of the IMatter-
horn one beholds many of the noblest peaks of the Alps, such
as the Monte Rosa (15,217 feet), Lyskamm (14,889 feet a/s),
and Breithorn (13,380 feet a/s) on the left, and the Dent
Blanche (14,318 feet a/s), Zinal Rothorn (13,856 feet a/s),
Weisshorn (14,804 feet a/s), and the Mischabels (14,982 feet
a/s) on the right. These mountains form the classic high
Alpine tours from Zermatt.
[43]
Another favorite excursion for the average tourist is a
walking tour to the tiny pilgrimage chapel of Maria zum
Schnee on the solitary Schwarzsee, 8393 feet a/s. The pious
natives flock to this spot every Sunday during the summer
(weather permittmg) to attend mass.
From Zermatt the St. Theodule Pass (10,900 feet a/s)»
offering magnificent views of this grandiose Alpine realm,
leads to Le Breuil in Italy. While this tour is not of great
difficulty, it will nevertheless be wise to hire a guide.
Returning back to the Rhone Valley
Brig (2244 feet a/s), a delightfully old-fashioned town, is
presently reached. Its shining metal cupolas give the town a
somewhat oriental character. Among the noteworthy sights
of Brig is the picturesque old chateau of the Stockalper
family, with square towers, large courtyard and wide arch-
ways. This formidable residence was built in 1642 by Kaspar
Stockalper, a wealthy and influential man, who in those days
dominated the trade over the Simplon, protecting the road
with 70 guardsmen.
In modern times Brig has gained importance as a railroad
junction. It is the northern portal of the Simplon tunnel
(12 miles, 537 yards long) and the famous Lotschberg
line (tunnel is 9 miles) from Berne and the Bernese Ober-
land (see page 61) connects at this point with the Simplon
trains.
The Simplon road over the pass (6591 feet a/s) is still
much used as an entrance to Italy, even since the tunnel
has been made, on account of the splendid views to be had
en route; it passes the mountain village of Berisal (5006
feet a/s), the Simplon Hospice and the village of Simplon
or Simpeln (4855 feet a/s), which are much frequented in
summer. Postal auto-bus service is maintained over the
Pass. North of Brig lies Belalp (7009 feet a/s) a wonder-
[44]
ful excursion point for those who like to have a close view
of the glacier world. '
Ascending from Brig by the Furka Railway to the Rhone
Glacier, we pass many delightful villages, which on account
of their scenic beauty, their endearing simplicity and their
splendid Alpine climate have become regular summer resorts:
Morel (2525 feet a/s), the starting point for Riederalp
(6315 feet a/s), an interesting Alpine excursion requiring
about 3J/2 hours for the ascent, is reached after a brief
twenty minutes ride. It is a typical mountain village with an
attractive church and weather-beaten chalets whose sombre
color is relieved by the brilliant red of fuchsias, geraniums
and carnations which bloom on every window-ledge. The
River Rhone has already assumed all the characteristics of a
rushing glacier torrent. A little higher up it receives the
tempestuous Binna, which rushes down through a solitary
vale of the same name, and from now on up to Gletsch the
district is known as the Goms valley.
The inhabitants of this section are of the sturdy peasant
type, conservative and obstinate in the highest degree. In the
history of their canton they played an important role during
the time of the Reformation and again in 1799, when their
natural seclusion enabled them to ward off the French
invasion. Cardinal Matthew Schinner, the famous Count-
Bishop of Sion, was born in this district. His boyhood was
spent in great poverty, but he struggled bravely against all
difficulties and succeeded to educate himself for the church.
Visitors to the Rhone Valley are generally interested in the
remarkable water conduits, or "hisses," as they are called by
the natives, which are found in nearly every side-valley, and
by which water is conveyed from a considerable distance to
the villages and pastures. By means of these irrigation chan-
nels the fields are kept green even in the hottest summer
weather. The ceaseless care and even peril which their con-
[45]
struction and repair entail have been most graphically
described by the famous Swiss writer, J. C. Heer, in his book,
"By the Sacred Springs."
Delightful woods fringe the extensive pastures which are
covered with soft, velvety grass on which Nature has lav-
ishly strewn the prettiest of Alpine blossoms. But the natives
of Goms have no time for sentimental flower study, and men,
women and children" toil hard in summer to gather their not
overabundant crop of hay. The dairy and cheese industries
are cultivated with great care and certain varieties of Goms
cheese are hailed as a special delicacy by connoisseurs. In
the Binnen and Fiescher valleys — two small side-valleys in
this district — it used to be the custom to keep cheeses of this
kind for many years as a sort of family heirloom. Specimens
of them, some dating back to the 17th Century, are still shown
'n the City Hall of
Fiesch (3515 feet a/s). This little village is the starting
joint for the well-known summer hotel Jungfrau-Eggishorn
(7195 feet a/s). The summit of the mountain may be
reached from here in about lYz hours. This is also a good
starting point for a visit to the famous Marjelen Lake (7710
feet a/s) and the Aletsch Glacier.
One of the most beautiful glacier walks can now be
enjoyed over this greatest of Europe's glaciers to the Jung-
fraujoch. (See page 58). The tour from the Eggishorn
Hotel is generally interrupted at the Concordia Hut en
route; the first section of the trip requires about five hours,
and the walk from the Concordia to the Jungfraujoch takes
another three hours. These tours should, of course, be
made with a guide.
A delightful excursion of an hour's duration may also be
>iade from here to the Fiesch Glacier, and another even
shorter walk, leads to the curious village of Ernen.
Gletsch (5750 feet a/s) is, as its name implicf- in dose
[46]
Thun
/icinity to the glacier of the Rhone, in fact the terminal face
of this majestic, awe-inspiring ice-cascade is half an hour's
walk from the railway station, the path following the milky
stream all along, right up to its fairy-like cradle, hewn in. the
purest of crystal.
From Gletsch we can reach the Bernese Oberland via the
Grimsel Pass leading to Meiringen, either tramping (about
8j/2 hours) or per post auto-bus, or else, we may proceed via
the Furka Pass per post auto-bus to Andermatt — continue
from here by post auto-bus to Disentis in the Grisons (page
102) or branch off at Andermatt for Goeschenen (page 76)
and connect with the Gothard route for Lucerne (page 66)
or the Swiss-Italian lake district (page 104).
Berne and the Bernese Oberland
Berne (1765 feet a/s), capital of Switzerland and seat of
the Government since 1848 is, of all important Swiss cities,
the one which has most carefully preserved its Old World
charm. The city was founded by Duke Berthold V of
Zahringen in 1191. The old part, which occupies a rocky
peninsula formed by the River Aar, winding its way a hun-
dred feet below, has carefully preserved its attractive
mediaeval features, and bridges, towers and gates are main-
tained in excellent condition. In the middle of the streets,
which are flanked with numerous arcades ("Lauben"), are
the many handsome fountains, mostly dating from the 16th
Century, and recently restored in their original gay colors.
These fountain figures, which are mainly emblems of the
various trade corporations, or guilds, are the most precious
remainders of renaissance art in Berne. Strolling along the
chief artery of the town, the Spitalgasse, Marktgasse, Kram-
gasse and Gerechtigkeitsgasse, we perceive first of all the
comical Bagpiper fountain, put up by the fraternity of that
joyous profession, which also included the wandering
[48]
musicians. The statue represents a handsome young man
blowing the ancient instrument of his guild ; a monkey behind
his back seconds him in hi^ performance and a goose at his
feet plays the attentive listener. His garb is typical of the'
unconcerned life of wandering minstrels. His shoes permit of
an ample display of the toes and the only bright feature of
his upper garments are the gilt fringes which adorn it.
Two interesting fountains stand in the adjoining Markt-
gasse. One statue commemorates Mrs. Anna Seller, the
founder of the Seller Hospital which, in later years, developed
into the now famous Insel Hospital. The figure shows a
graceful, handsomely dressed woman pouring water into a
basin. The other statue, which was erected by the fraternity
of the sharpshooters, right in front of their guild house,
represents a warrior in uniform, ready to take part in some
friendly military tournament. In his right hand he is hold-
ing the banner of the sharpshooters and a small bear seated
at his feet points his rifle in a protectory manner toward the
entrance door of the guild house.
Further on is the Zahringer fountain, erected by the city in
honor of Berthold V of Zahringen, the founder of Berne.
The figure consists of a bear in full armor, carrying the
banner and coat-of-arms of the house of Zahringen — a
golden lion on a red background. A cub nestles comfortably
at his feet and feeling perfectly safe in such protection, it
gracefully devours some grapes.
A visitor to the Kramgasse will, of course, not overlook the
ancient Clock Tower with its famous astronomical clock.
Here again, as everywhere in Berne, friend Bruin plays a most
prominent role, and the chronicles referring to the complicated
mechanism of the clock state that:
"As often as the hour strikes a troop of little bears go
round in a circle, a cock crows three times before and once
after the clock strikes. A sitting man, holding a staff in one
[49]
Near Wengen
Grindelwald
hand and an hour-glass in the other, counts the strokes by
opening his mouth and smiting with his stick at every stroke
of the clock- Another wooden manniken rings two little bells
when the hour is about to strike. In the belfry at the top of
the tower are the bells, and beside them stands a figure of
the Duke of Zahringen m armour, who strikes the hours on
the bells with his sceptre (as this was too feeble it was
replaced by a hammer)."
The Clock Tower, this oldest of Berne's ancient gateways,
dates from the 15th Century, and together with the pretty
oriel windows of the adjoining houses and the stately Ziih-
ringer fountain close by, it makes a picture of rare charm.
From the Kramgasse we emerge into the Gerechtigkeits-
gasse, in the middle of which we perceive the fountain of the
same name, i. e., the Fountain of Justice. The statue shows
a blindfolded woman with a pair of scales in her left hand.
At her feet are four small figures, Pope, King, Sultan and
Burghermaster, the representatives of the different kinds of
state legislation. All listen earnestly, and with closed eyes to
Justice, admitting her sovereignt}'' in each and every land.
The most curious of Berne's fountains is, however, the
Ogre fountain on the Kornhausplatz, representing a Jew in
the act of devouring a child, while several other infants are
held in readiness in his pockets. The sight of this statue has
still an awe-inspiring effect on all the youngsters, and the
name of it alone frequently suffices to change a naughty
behavior into a docile one. The figure is said to have been
erected in memory of a little boy believed to have been
murdered by the Jews.
At the lower end of the town, beyond the Nydeck Bridge,
there is the bear pit, a pet possession of the Swiss Capital.
The bear, as the heraldic animal of the city, has always been
held in high honor, and specimens of the real live Bruin have
been maintained by the city for over 400 years.
[51]
Of special attraction are, also, the noble Gothic structure
of the Cathedral of St. Vincent, commenced in the year 1421
and completed in 1896. The numerous public buildings in
Berne and the imposing monuments betray the artistic and
refined taste of the citizens. The Federal Palace, an edifice
in Florentine renaissance style, the Rathaus, exquisitely pre-
served from the Middle Ages, the University, an inspiringly
noble temple of education, the various museums, etc., all are
buildings of rare beauty and interest.
For a longer sojourn Berne is ideal for, besides the attrac-
tions the city itself provides the picturesque environs offer
endless opportunities for delightful excursions. Nearby
Gurtenkulm (260O feet a/s), a much frequented health
resort, is reached by trolley car and an electric cable railway,
and the famous
Baths of Gurnigel (3788 feet a/s) can be conveniently
visited by way of Thurnen or direct from the city by regular
automobile service.
A side trip to the Emmenthal — of cheese fame — with
the opulent villages of Langnau, Liizelfluh, Sumiswald,
Griinen and Huttwil and return via Burgdorf is to be
recommended.
Thun (1844 feet a/s). This picturesque town is charm-
ingly situated on the lake of the same name, at the outflow
of the rapid River Aar. With its quaint streets and mediaeval
architecture, its proud old castle Zahringen-Kyburg, erected
1182, towering above, Thun is indeed a fitting portal to the
Bernese Oberland.
The town offers a vast variety of fascinating walks and
promenades of which the most interesting are the Schwabis
promenade, skirting the Aar, and the Biichimatt promenade,
lined with some splendid specimens of old trees, along the
right bank of the Aar and the lake. A magnificent panorama
of this enchanting spot, with its turquoise lake reposing in a
[52]
rare setting of dazzling mountains may be enjoyed from the
pavilion of the Jakobshiibeli. - As the immediate guardians of
Thun the spectator beholds the Stockhorn cham and the
pyramid of the Niesen, rising from the lake above; a little
further away glitter the im<mense snowfields of the immaculate
Bliimlisalp and somewhat more distant yet, beckon in all
their glory the Eiger, Monch and Jungfrau.
Thun, owing to its sheltered position, has an ideal climate
and is a pronounced favorite among vacationists. Golf.
F"rom Thun, one may proceed by rail or boat to Inter-
laken. Going by boat on the Lake of Thun, which is numbered
as one of the lovliest in Switzerland, can be highly recom-
mended. We pass in succession on the right bank Hilter-
fingen, Oberhofen, Gunten, Merligen, and Beatenbucht with
the Beatus caves, worthy of a visit. An electric cable rail-
way climbs to Beatenberg (3766 feet a/s) a favorite summer,
resort and winter station. On the left bank nestles charm-
ingly
Spiez (1977 feet a/s), a flourishing summer resort.
From Spiez three routes are open:
Via Erlenbach-Zvveisimmen to the Lake of Geneva (see
page 63) or to Interlaken, and the other via the gigantic
electric railway of normal gauge traction, the Lotschberg
line, to Brig (see page 61).
Interlaken (1863 feet a/s) is the gay tourist metropolis
of the Bernese Oberland. It lies in a smiling, blossoming
valley, between the beautiful lakes of Thun and Brienz, at
the portal of some of the grandest mountain scenery in Europe,
for in the background towers in all her overwhelming radiance
the queen of the Bernese Alps — the Jungfrau.
The Kursaal on the Hoheweg, with its auditorium accom-
modating several thousand persons, is a scene of constant
animation and brilliant social life during the season.
Mountain railways ascend, of course, all the well known
[53]
points of view in the vicinity. There are for instance the
delightful half-day and day excursions to the Harder (3988
feet a/s),theHeim\vehfluh (2218 feet a/s), the Schynige Platte
(6463 feet a/s), Miirren (5385 feet a/s) via Lauterbrunnen,
Grindelwald (3468 feet a/s), and most famous of all, the memo-
rable circular tour Interlaken-Lauterbrunnen-VVengernalp-
Soheidegg-Jungfraujoch-Scheidegg-Grindelvvald-lnterlaken.
From Interlaken the so-called Bernese Oberland Railway
takes us through a pleasant orchard country to Wilderswil,
a delightful summer resort of diminutive size which is the
starting point for the Schynige Platte, one of the most
celebrated natural observatories of this region. A milky
glacier stream flows with youthful buoyancy at our feet
and sombre stretches of forests accompany us, past luxuri-
antly green meadows on which the dearest little chalets
are dotted in bewitching fashion. At Zweiliitschinen (2150
feet a/s), so-called because it is the junction of the Black
and White Liitschine, the former descending from Grindel-
wald, the latter from the Lauterbrunnen valley, the railway-
branches off in both directions and the travelers separate
according to their plans. Choosing the White Liitschine
as our guide, we now proceed into the poetic valley of
Lauterbrunnen. As we advance and notice on all sides the
waterfalls leaping from the cliffs, we understand why this
district was given the name "Nothing but Springs." The
valley itself is extremely narrow, but of wondrous beauty,
and as the train approaches the village of Lauterbrunnen
(2615 feet a/s) itself, there is hardly a passenger who attempts
to conceal his excitement, for there, in all its overwhelming
beauty is the Fall of the world-renowned Staubbach, which
throws itself from a perpendicular precipice, one thousand
feet high, into the valley below. A glittering silver ribbon
at first it swiftly disperses into a filmy cloud of spray in which,
as if by magic, is now reflected a rainbow in a bewildering
[55]
riot of colors. The Triimme-lbach and Schmadribach are two
other magnificent cascades.
.Lauterbrunnen is the terminal station of this branch of the
Bernese Oberland line and the starting point of the Wen-
gernalp Railway.
Miirren (5385 feet a/s) a delightful summer and winter
sport station is reached from here by cable railway.
Proceeding by the Wengernalp railway we pass
Wengen (4243 feet a/s), a prosperous village in the
midst of luxuriant pastures, a favorite summer and winter
sport center.
Wengernalp (6184 feet a/s) and Kleine Scheidegg (6770
feet a/s) where the traveler becomes more and more
enthusiastic and delighted with the glorious Alpine scenery
spread before him. He is in a realm of pastures strewn with
blossoms of every hue, with herds of well-kept cattle grazing
in happy contentment, to the tuneful tinkhng of their bells,
and the background of this idyll is formed by the Eiger
(13,042 feet a/s), the Monch (13,465 feet a/s) and the Jung-
frau (13,670 feet a/s), that ever admired trio of the Bernese
Alps.
At Scheidegg we board the luxuriously appointed cars of
the Jungfrau railway, which will carry us from an altitude
of 6770 feet a/s to a height of 11,480 feet a/s. Through ver-
dant pastures the train begins to climb noiselessly uphill,
while the spacious plate-glass windows afford an unob-
structed view of the surroundings. Presently we reach
Eigergletscher (7624 feet a/s), the first station of the
Jungfrau railway, where a regular little colony has settled
down since the construction of the line. An excellent restau-
rant caters to tourists and the director of the railway with
his family and some 170 emplo3^ees live in various com-
fortable dwellings within a few feet of one of Switzerland's
wondrous glaciers — the Eigerglacier.
[56]
The engineers and workmen employed in the construc-
tion and maintenance of the Jungfrau railway live here all
the year round. Cooking and baking is done by electricity,
and the necessary water supply between November and
May has likewise to be produced by electrically melting ice
and snow. As the Jungfrau railway now also maintains a
reduced traffic during the winter-sport season, the colony
at Eigergletscher has practically become a resident popula-
tion of those snow-bound regions.
From this point the Eiger Glacier is easily, accessible to
good walkers, and those make it naturally a point of visiting
the celebrated ice grotto first of all. It is said that these
grottos are a much more accurate weather forecaster than
the average weather bureau. If their ice is a clear, turquoise
blue or a dark sapphire shade the weather will be fair next
day, but if it shows a dull green color, snow may surely be
expected and probably rain in the valley. The Eiger glacier
grotto is about 86 feet long and 4 feet wide. The roof is
arched and about 7 or 8 feet high in the center. The
glacier at this point is said to be a solid mass of ice 150 feet
thick. ♦
Leaving Eigergletscher Station the train enters the big,
brilliantly lighted tunnel cut into the colossal bodies of the
Eiger and Monch. After a scarcely perceptible climb lasting
17 minutes we make the first stop at Eigerwand Station,
9410 feet a/s, a spacious room hewn out of the mountain
with natural rock pillars supporting its ceiling. Three large
windows on the north side afford a magnificent view of the
lower peaks beyond w^hich the distant ranges of the Jura,
ihe Vosges and the Black Forest become visible. Grindcl-
.vald, in the valley below, appears like a toy village, indi-
cating the lofty altitude which we have already reached!
From Eigerwand the tunnel winds round to the south side
of the Eis;er and within a brief 10 minutes we reach Eismeer
[57]
Station, 10,370 feet a/s, a veritable masterpiece of technical
skill. It is also entirely cut out of solid rock, and contains
a wonderful restaurant for 200 people, an electric kitchen
and a real postoffice. The restaurant, to continue with the
description of these material attractions, is as handsome
and comfortable a dining-room as one finds them in good
American hotels, and the products of the adjoining spotless
kitchen have from the beginning enjoyed a most enviable
reputation. The tiny postoffice distinguishes itself by its
enormous sale of picture post cards and postage stamps, and
it would require someone familiar with high figures to esti-
mate the legions of post-card greetings which it has already
dispatched. From the main portion of the station rock win-
dows, similar to the apertures on the Axenstrasse along the
Lake of Lucerne, open out on the mountainside, temporary
balconies being erected outside which can be taken in and
stored away during winter. Below and directly in front of
the station, with a flight of steps leading down to it, lies the
Grindelwaldfiescherfirn, a glacier with deep crevices and fis-
sures, extending over several miles until it joins the Grindel-
waldglacier in the "lower Eismeer."
Emerging from the semi-darkness of the tunnel we find
the views oflfered by those rock stations doubly striking and
imposing. Eismeer, as its name implies, is in truth a sea
of ice. So-called seracs, rocks of ice of fantastic form,
tower one above the other, and between, sometimes hidden
with a light cover of snow, are the treacherous crevices whose
location is only known to the experienced guides. While the
outlook from Eigerwand is on mountains of moderate height,
the view from Eismeer embraces a region where ice and
snow reign absolute — a contrast unique in its kind which
never fails to fascinate the tourists.
In another, still more handsomely appointed train, we
start on the last section of our trip, to Jungfraujoch,
[58]
(11,480 feet a/s), requiring 15 minutes. The line leaves
Eismeer in a straight line westward. First comes an adhe-
sion section 1J4 miles in length, with a gradient of 6.6 per
cent, changing to the cogwheel system with 25 per cent
gradient shortly before Jungfraujoch is reached.
While every stopping point of the Jungfrau railway has
a distinctive surprise in store for the wondering traveler,
Jungfraujoch, the present terminal, certainly forms the
crowning glory of the whole enterprise. It is situated in
the glaciated ridge between the Jungfrau and the Monch.
Flanked by these two great peaks, the station afifords a com-
bination of the advantages of the lower stations in the
glorious panorama visible from here. To tihe north are
seen the verdant central Alps and extensive plains; to the
south, Europe's greatest glacier, the Aletsch glacier, 15 miles
in length, framed by countless pinnacles of rock and ice. An
excellent telescope permits of a closer view of this gigantic
"frozen river" and enables us to gaze at the Concordia Hut
and the celebrated Alarjelen Lake at the foot of the glacier.
A narrow gallery leads us to the vast snow plateau of the
Jungfraujoch which has become a regular playground for
its visitors. Here in these lofty regions which are bathed
in glorious sunshine we can enjoy ski-ing and sleigh riding
(the sleighs being drawn by specially trained Polar dogs)
in the middle of summer! Jungfraujoch, this unique all-year
playground for lovers of snow sports, is also an advantageous
starting point for glacier excursions and mountain ascents
in the Jungfrau-Finsteraarhorn section. From here the
summit of the Jungfrau may be reached within three to four
hours, but guides are, of course, always essential for expedi-
tions in this region.
Jungfraujoch has now a modern hotel with an attractive
restaurant, and a post and telegraph office. It is at present
the highest railway station in Europe.
[59]
We now return to Scheidegg Station and Intcrlaken by
way of
Grindelwald (3468 feet a/s), called the glacier village and
pioneer place of winter-sports in the Bernese Oberland. It
owes its reputation to the exceptional situation it enjoys in
the heart of this Alpine region, offering a great variety oi
easy excursions as well as fascinating and difficult tours for
the experienced climber.
One of the most delightful walking excursions is from
Grindelwald over the Great Scheidegg via the Baths of Ros-
enlaui (4363 feet a/s) to Meiringen.
Proceeding from Interlaken by rail or boat we reach
Brienz (1873 feet a/s). The charming little capital of
woodcarvers, where the finest products of this art can be
viewed and purchased, is well worth a visit. Nearby, on the
left bank of lovely Lake Brienz, are the well-known
resorts of Iseltwald and Giessbach.
Meiringen (1960 feet a/s) has long been a favorite tour-
ist resort for it is one of the loveliest villages in the Bernese
Oberland, combining unusual scenic beauty with an altogether
charming style of architecture. Here are the silvery cascades
of the Alpbach and the Reichenbach which, in their won-
derful illumination at night make a picture of unforgetable,
fairy-like splendor. It was at the Reichenbach Falls, as
readers of Conan Doyle will remember, that Sherlock Holmes
was supposed to have disappeared from this mundane sphere
of existence, and from where he was brought back to fur-
nish fresh tales of marvel to his admirers. The grandiose
gorge of the River Aar, which forms the chief attraction
of Meiringen, must be visited by all means.
From Meiringen the railway leads via the Briinig 'Pass to
Lucerne (page 11), and the Post road over the Grimsel
Pass to Gletsch (page 46). A bridle path connects via
the Joch Pass v/ith Engelberg (page 74), and via the
[60]
Susten Pass with Wassen on the Gothard line (page 76).
The scenic Great Scheidegg Pass leads from here to Grindel-
wald (see page 60). Carriages may be hired to the Baths
of Rosenlani, a drive of two hours, and the remainder of the
tour is made on foot in about five hours. A guide is not
necessary.
From the Lake of Thun via the Lotschberg.
Traveling from Spiez via the electric railway of
normal gauge traction — the Lotschberg line (tunnel is 9 miles
long) — which was opened in 1913, we encounter
Heustrich Baths (2295 feet a/s) with old and famous
sulphur springs.
Miilenen-Aeschi (2825 feet a/s), whence a cable railway
offers a very attractive excursion to the Niesen (7763 feet a/s).
Reichenbach (2336 feet a/s), a quiet summer health
resort with quaint old peasants' homes and the gateway tc
the romantic Kiental with the popular Griesalp.
Frutigen (2717 feet a/s), a very charming and prosperous
village with important cattle markets. An attractive road
leads from here through the Engstligenbach Valley to
Adelboden (4467 feet a/s), an Alpine village of inde-
scribable beauty and charm which is becoming one of the
leading all-year resorts.
Between Frutigen and Kandersteg lies the Blausee, the
much admired "Blue Lake" whose coloring is even dwelt
upon in Bernese folk-lore.
Kandersteg (3840 feet a/s), is a name familiar to sport-
loving people in summer and winter alike. Surrounded by
a majestic assembly of mountains, it offers a great variety
of easy and more difficult excursions. The Oeschinen lake,
the valleys of Gastern and Ueschinen and the mighty falls
of the Kander in the Klus can easily be visited by the
average tourist.
[61]
Adelboden in Winter
In the Loetschen Valley
The bridle path over the Gemmi (7553 feet a/s), one ot
Switzerland's most scenic mountain trails, leads to the Baths
of Leuk in the Valais (see page 42).
A favorite day's excursion is by train to
Goppenstein, on the southern side of the Lotscliberg
tunnel and then a tramp into the romantic Lotschen Valley,
■where the customs and costumes of the natives are unusu-
ally ancient and quaint.
Soon after leaving Goppenstein we obtain a glimpse of a
small portion of the Rhone Valley in the distance, but the
whole beautiful picture of the Valaisan landscape does not
open out until we emerge from the last tunnel just before
arriving at Hotlien, Exclamations of surprise and aston-
ishment at the beauty of the scenery escape from everyone
who is making this journey for the first time. Suddenly the
wide plain of the Rhone Valley is spread out at our feet
1300 feet below, and a wonderful view of the country is
obtained.
After having crossed 20 tunnels and 7 gigantic viaducts
we reach Brig (page 44), the terminus of the line.
Direct Route from Lake of Thun to Lake of Geneva.
The Bernese Oberland and the Lake of Geneva region are
directly connected by electric train service leading from
Spiez to Zweisimmen and Montreux.
Traveling from Spiez (page 53), we pass Wimmis,
Ocy-Diemtigen, with the Alpine resort of Grimmialp
(5150 feet a/s) to the south, reaching Erlenbach and then
Weissenburg (2919 feet a/s) with noted mineral springs.
Zweisimmen (3215 feet a/s). A friendly mountain vil-
lage with all advantages necessary to a summer and winter
resort. It is also the starting point of a branch line of the
Montreux-Bcrnese Oberland railroad, leading to
Lenk (3527 feet a/s), prettily situated in full view of the
[63]
Furka Pass with Rhone Glacier
Gstaad in Winter
snow-clad Wildstrubel (10,673 feet a/s), which forms a won-
derful termination of the valley. Owing to its strong sul-
phur and iron springs it is a much frequented health resort.
A little farther on beckons
Gstaad (3450 feet a/s), another picturesque mountain
village which now occupies a high rank as a summer and
winter sport center. It is the starting place for numerous
Alpine excursions, and the junction of the two picturesque
valleys. Gsteig (3911 feet a/s), whence good roads lead
over the Col de Pillon (5086 feet a/s) to Les Diablerets
in the Ormonts Valley (see page 35), and over the Sanetsch
Pass to Sion in the Rhone Valley (page 41).
Saanen (3382 feet a/s) is the chief locality in the Upper
Valley of the Sarine, a very picturesque village, the home of
the Gruj^eres and Vacherin cheese of world renown. The
line follows the Valley of the Sarine and reaches
Chateau d'Oex (3180 feet a/s), a favorite all-year resort,
with excellent sport opportunities. It is set in a cluster of
lovely mountains and enjoys an ideal climate.
Passing Rossiniere with its wonderful "Grand Chalet" we
reach
Montbovon (2620 feet a/s), at the upper end of the
Gruycres Valley, which presents a striking contrast to the
preceding valley. Here the traveler finds himself carried
into a wild and romantic country, into beautiful pasture-
lands, inhabited by a race of herdsmen clinging to their
ancient customs. It is the home of the Ranz des Vaches or
Kuhrcihen, the yodel or herd song, which has been made
familiar by Swiss singers to the outside world. Presently
we reach
Les Avants (3190 feet a/s), a favorite summer resort and
winter sport center, whose funicular railway, climbing from
the Montreux-Berncse Oberland railway station to the Col de
Sonloup, has proven a great boon to the patrons of the won-
[65]
derful bobsleigh run which descends from tins point to
Les Avants. Lower down is
Chamby (2200 feet a/s) an incomparable "Belvedere."
Gazing upon the distant Rhone Valley we behold the stately
Dent du Midi — a glorious vision of immaculate ermine — and
at our feet smiles the beautiful Lake Leman, so much beloved
by the great poets. On the opposite shore rise proudly the
Savoy Alps and beyond lies the bluish silhouette of the Jura.
Chamby is a village of wine-growers and pensions, a place to
rest in in summer and to toboggan in winter. After another
short descent we reach
Montreux (1237 feet a/s"), "beautiful as a dream," as
Byron called it (see page 34).
Central Switzerland with Lucerne as Its Focus.
Lucerne (1437 feet a/s) is situated at the northwest end
of the classic lake of the same name, at the issue of the blue-
green river Reuss. Owing to its privileged position it pul-
sates from spring to autumn with a cosmopolitan life.
Indeed, Lucerne is the center of the Swiss tourist traffic and
the noble mountains surrounding it, the Rigi, the Pilatus, the
Biirgenstock and Stanserhorn, are familiar figures in the
mind of every tourist who has visited this spot, same as
the proud old Musegg towers which crown old Lucerne, and
the ancient wooden bridges spanning the Reuss.
History relates that a colony of monks from the Alsatian
Benedictine Abbey of the Murbach founded a little monas-
tery on the spot where the River Reuss leaves the Lake of
the Four Cantons, and that the foundation being dedicated
to Saint Leodegar was known as "Luciaria." The village
which was gradually built around the ecclesiastical settle-
ment soon developed into a town, and documents of the
12th Century mention the same under the name of "Luzzeron"
or "Lucerren." These facts show that the supposition that
[66]
Lucerne derives its name from the Latin Lucerna — light-
house — is altogether of legendary origin, as archaeologists
have ascertained that no Roman lighthouse has ever stood
at the outlet of the Reuss.
Considering that the history of Lucerne is so closely con-
nected with the Church of St. Leodegar, the traveler who
cares about old Lucerne should first of all visit the time-
honored place of worship which had, however, to be partly
restored after a fire in 1633. As we enter the door we notice
a curious early 16th Century stone-carving which represents
the betrayal of Christ in the garden in a most characteristic
manner. The figure of St. James to the left — a weary man
in his heavy sleep; St. Peter, making a heroic effort to appear
to be awake, and St. John, peacefully slumbering Avith the
scriptures under his arm. The figure of Christ himself
reflects all the devotion and obedience He showed to His
Father's will as He lifts His face toward the rock of His
salvation, wherefrom an angel with the Cup of Agony in his
hands appears. The tail of a serpent which has slipped into
a crevice of the rock serves as a suggestion of the powers
of evil. Waiting behind Judas are Christ's captors, some
with fear and misgivings already visible in their faces, and
leaning on the garden railing are Moorish soldiers and
ruffians — a clever study in brute power and gaping wonder.
The interior of the church is of classic beauty and is par-
ticularly remarkable for its exquisitely carved choir-stalls,
its artistic forged ironwork, old stained-glass windows and
its great organ. The latter is one of the oldest and finest
instruments of its kind. It contains no fewer than 4950 pipes,
and is fitted with a wonderful "vox humana" and a "vox
celesta."
Beyond the church is the old graveyard enclosed by an
arcade which contains a number of interesting frescoes by
Deschwanden.
[68]
In close vicinity to this ancient church is the celebrated
"Lion of Lucerne," executed in 1821 to the memory of
26 officers and 760 soldiers of the Swiss guard who fell
in defending the Tuileries on August 10, 1792. The monu-
ment, which actually measures 26 feet in length, was chiselled
in the face of a rocky cliff 60 feet in height, and forms,
owing to its romantic natural surroundings, a most impres-
sive picture. A spring flows down on one side of the rock
and gathers in a tiny pool at its base, surrounded by graceful
trees and dark-green shrubs. In a recess occupying the
center of the cliff lies the Lion, pierced by a broken lance,
his face contorted by physical pain, but still protecting the
Bourbon shield with his paw. Above the animal is the
simple inscription "Helvetiorum fidei ac virtuti," together
with the names of the fallen officers.
A few steps further on is the Glacier Garden, a monument
of unique geological interest, left by Nature herself. It con-
sists of nine so-called "pot-holes," of an old glacier, and
was discovered in 1872 by some workmen who were digging
the foundation of a house. The largest of them is 31 feet
deep and measures 21 feet in diameter. Scientists say that
these holes must evidently have been formed in prehistoric
times by waters flowing beneath the glacier which then
extended from the St. Gothard to the northern frontier
of Switzerland. Water trickling through the fissures of
the glacier imparted a rotatory motion to stones which, after
falling upon the ice, also found their way through the
fissures. In the course of centuries those stones hollowed
out the holes in the rock beneath and were left in them
when the glaciers receded ; they consist of gneiss, granite
of the St. Gothard and Alpine limestones, and are yet to
be seen in their respective places.
The time-honored towers of the city wall — the Musegg,
which date from the year 1385 and which are now carefully
[69]
preserved — are particular landmarks of Lucerne. Passing
beneath the gate by the side of the Nollitor and coming
townwards by the Briiggligasse, one is at once fascinated
by the many quaint and beautifully painted gables.
Lucerne, some 400 years ago, was frequently nicknamed
"the wooden stork's nest," for all its principal buildings
and bridges at that time were of wood, and according to
the tendency of those days they were gaily decorated with
paintings of varied descriptions. Up-to-date Lucerne has,
however, long ere realized the immense value of those
mediaeval structures and every effort has hence been made
to restore those which remained.
We now approach the Spreuer Bridge, one of the two
picturesque covered wooden bridges which have been pre-
served for the generations to come. It dates from the year
1408, and between the years 1626 and 1632, Kaspar Meglingen
decorated it with panels of the "Dance of Death," that grue-
some allegory which was so much fashion in those days.
Longfellow in his "Hyperion" refers to them : "In almost
all languages is it written — the apparition of the grim spectre
putting a sudden stop to all business and leading men away
into the remarkable retirement of the grave. It is written
in an ancient Spanish poem and painted on a wooden bridge
in Switzerland. The designs of Holbein are well known.
The most striking among them is that where, from a group
of children sitting round a cottage hearth, death has taken
one by the hand and is leading it out of the door. Quietly
and unresistingly goes the little child and on its countenance
no grief but wonder only; while the other children are
weeping and stretching forth their hands in vain toward their
departing brother. It is a beautiful design in all save the
skeleton. An angel had been better, with folded wings and
torch inverted."
The other wooden bridge, /. c, the KapellbriJcke is one
[70]
of Lucerne's most typical landmarks. Same as the Spreuer-
briicke it crosses the Reuss diagonally, stopping to confer
almost in mid-stream with a weather-beaten octagonal tower,
the Wasserturm. In the Kapellbriicke, which was built in
1333, are 154 painted scenes from Swiss history and from
the lives of the patron saints of Lucerne: St. Leodegar and
St. Maurice.
The Wasserturm, to which tradition refers as a Roman
lighthouse, was in reality — like the Musegg — nothing more
than a part of the fortifications of the city. While it formerly
contained the town treasury, it is still the storehouse of the
municipal archives and documents.
When we have passed over the bridge from the left s.hore
of the Reuss, we must devote a few moments to the adjacent
humble St. Peter's Chapel, with its early 16th Century stone-
carving of the Nativity and the impressing figure of Niklaus
von der Fliie, that old hermit who did such great work for
peace in Switzerland.
Just a few steps farther on we perceive the grand old
Rathaus in the Kornmarkt. This building which is in the
purest Renaissance style, contains a Gothic staircase and
some exquisite inlaid wainscoting and ancient carved wood-
work, also portraits of magistrates of Lucerne and large
mural paintings by Reinhard and Wyrsch. On the ground
floor of this mediaeval edifice, there is a permanent Fine
Arts Exhibition and an Historical Museum of Applied Arts,
including the antiquarian collection of the Historical Society
of the First Five Cantons. Here we find objects from the
lake dwellings and from prehistoric tombs, numerous weapons
and trophies from the old Swiss wars, Duke Leopold's coat
of mail from the Battle of Sempach, and various other
relics connected with the most interesting events in the
history of Lucerne.
Adjoining the steps of the Kornmarkt is the "Gasthaus zu
[711
The Axcnstrasse between Brunnen and Fliielen
A bit of Old Lucerne
Pfistern/' one of the most noteworthy old Lucerne houses.
It belonged to the guild of bakers and thus bears the coat-
ot arms of that profession. On the white background is
panned a spreading vine, from the branches of which hang
sacks of flour, drinking pots and loaves of bread. Near at
hand is the so-called "Haus zum Frieden," on which is
painted a domestic scene, the subject being the return of a
Swiss soldier from war and the welcome by his family.
Skdlful fresco works can be seen on many other houses,
as on the Gasthaus zu Metzgern, the Hotel Waage, the Hotel
Hirschen and others.
Lucerne is the starting point for an inexhaustible variety
of excursions, and the lake in particular affords a most
varied clioice of enjoyable trips. Golf course of 18 holes.
The Rigi (5900 feet a/s) rises above the lake whose
waters reflect it in marvelous spectacle. From its top is
unfolded a sierralike expanse in a radius of 180 miles.
The ascent via Vitznau, a delightful summer resort, and
descent via Arth-Goldau and Immensee on the Lake of
Zug is a round trip never to be forgotten.
The Pilatus (6995 feet a/s). This is a trip either by boat
or rail to Alpnachstad then, with the Pilatus Railway, one of
the boldest railways in the world to Pilatus Kulm
in an hour and 20 minutes. The Pilatus Railway is
the only rack-and-pinion railway which has vertical teeth on
both sides, into which two parts of toothed wheels attached
to the train w:ork horizontally. The maximum gradient is
48 per cent, and the panorama enjoyed from the summit of
this stately mountain is indeed "a glimpse into paradise."
The Stanserhom (6236 feet a/s) is another attractive
excursion point, easily reached from Lucerne in two hours.
A steamer plies between Lucerne and Stansstad. From there
an electric railway conveys the traveler in one-quarter of an
hour to Stans, whence the Stanserhornbahn, an electrig cable
[73]
railway, ascends with a maximum gradient of 60 per cent, to
the summit in 50 minutes.
Stans (1510 feet a/s) itself is an interesting little town
full of historic associations, with an imposing monument to
the great patriot, Arnold von Winkelried, whose heroic deeds
in the titanic struggle of the Swiss against their oppressors
ranks second only to William Tell's exploits in Swiss
history.
From Stansstad and Stans an electric railway carries the
tourist in an hour and 40 minutes to the prettily situated and
idyllic village of
Engelberg (3356 feet a/s), a delightful summer resort
and winter sport center, at the foot of the snow-covered
Titlis (10,527 feet a/s). Engelberg offers a variety of easy
excursions as well as high Alpine tours for which guides are
necessary.
Bridle paths lead over the Joch Pass (7267 feet a/s) to
Meiringen (page 60), and over the Surenen Pass (7562
feet a/s) to Altdorf (page 76).
On our further explorations of the lake region we are
invited by such idyllic places as Kehrsiten with the Biir-
genstock, Beckenried, Treib with the Seelisberg and the
Riitli, a spot sacred in Swiss history as the cradle of the
country's liberty. On the opposite bank beckon Weggis
with its very modern lake baths, Vitznau (the starting
point for the Rigi) and Gersau. From Brunnen, another
delightful summer resort, an electric cogwheel railway
runs via the prettily situated hamlet of Morschach to Axen-
fels and Axenstein, whence a most beautiful outlook is to
be had on the lake. Golf course of 9 holes in close vicinity.
From Brunnen the Axenstrasse — one of the most famous
specimens of highway construction in the world — leads to
Fliielen, passing on the way Tell's Chapel at Sisikon,
[ 74 ]
Near Engelberg
where the hero is said to have sprung from the boat in
which Bailiff Gessler was taking him to prison.
Fliielen (1483 feet a/s) is the last steamboat station at the
the southern end of Lake Lucerne. We may return hence via
Schwyz to Lucerne or continue the tour to
♦ Altdorf (1465 feet a/s), which, with the memorial of the
patriot William Tell, is well worthy of a visit. The little town
prides itself of a theatre where performances of Schiller's
great drama are given from time to time.
From here the Klausen Pass, one of the finest Alpine roads
leads past Biircjlen — TcU's birthplace — to Linthal (page 84).
The next station on the Gothard road is Erstfeld in the
Valley of the Reuss, followed by Amsteg, whence one
begins to obtain a conception of the stupendous engineering
difficulties that were encountered and overcome in the con-
struction of the famous Gothard line, which is now
entirely electrified.
Goeschenen (3640 feet a/s) is the northern entrance to
the world's second largest — the Gothard — tunnel (9^4 miles
long).
Before that point is reached the line has circled the village
of Wassen in two spiral tunnels and crossed the ]Maienreuss
thrice upon lofty bridges. From Wassen the Susten Pass
connects with Meiringen in the Bernese Oberland (page 60).
Andermatt (4738 feet a/s), connected with Goeschenen
by the electric Schollenen Railroad, is a very attractive sum-
mer resort and winter sport center. It is the focus for excur-
sions in the St. Gothard region.
An excellently constructed road leads over the Oberalp Pass
to Disentis in the Grisons (page 102 and another road climbs
via the Furka Pass to Gletsch, the base of the Rhone Glacier
(page 46). Post auto-bus service is maintained on both of
these passes.
Another favorite excursion from Lucerne leads into the
[76]
so-called Seetal, a smiling valley with the two pretty lakes of
Baldcgg and Hallwil. Near the latter stands the ancient
chateau of Hallwil, recently beautifully renovated and open
to visitors.
A little further on beckons the quaint little town of Lenz-
burg, guarded by two graceful vineclad hills; the Staufen
with its friendly church and the Schlossberg with its im-
posing castle which is now the summer residence of James
W. Ellsworth, a wealthy New Yorker.
Being a great lover of music this gentleman recently hit
upon a rather novel idea, by making an arrangement with the
brass band of Lenzburg city, which enables him to command
those amateur musicians to the castle whenever he feels dis-
posed to hear a few selections!
A direct railway connecting Lucerne and Berne traverses
the valley of the Entlebuch, a rich farming district.
Still another attractive excursion is to Kiissnacht, then
a walk or drive through the Hohle Gasse, a narrow defile,
where Tell is said to have shot the bailiff Gessler, which
event is immortalized by a chapel, the Tellskapelle. A
little further on lies Immensee whence a delightful trip
on the idyllic Lake of Zug takes us to the diminutive capital
of that canton, Zug (1385 feet a/s), a most picturesque,
ancient town, whence a cable railway carries the tourists
to the heights of the Zugerberg (3130 feet a/s).
The most picturesque and probably the most familiar
route from Lucerne to the Bernese Oberland is by rail-
way over the Briinig Pass to Meiringen. After passing
Alpnachstad (1440 feet a/s), starting point of the Pilatus
railway, the line enters the pasturelands of Obwalden, with
Kerns-Kagiswil (1620 feet a/s), as the next station and
entrance to the idyllic IMelchtal, with Fluehli-Ranft (2450
feet a/s) and the Alpine hamlet and health resort of
V7]
Andermatt
Melchtal (2933 feet a/s), the land of St. Nikolaus von
der Fliie.
Passing Sarnen (1555 feet a/s), the capital of Obwalden
and Sachseln (1558 feet a/s), picturesquely situated on the
Lake of Sarnen, the line now ascends a little and changes
to the rack-and-pinion system at Giswil (1665 feet a/s).
Presently the placid Lake of Lungern (2160 feet a/s) is
reached, and after a few minutes' climb Briinig (3295 feet
a/s) the highest point of the Pass and a truly wonderful point
of view is attained. From here the line descends in 25
minutes to ]\leiringen (page 60).
Eastern Switzerland
Ziirich (1345 feet a/s), called the "Athens on the Lim-
mat" is Switzerland's most populous city. It dates back to
those early days when a village of lake dwellings stood near
the spot where the Limmat leaves the Lake of Ziirich. The
Lindenhof and the Uetliberg — the latter still showing the
ruins of the "Refugium" ramparts, are said to have been
chosen for the first colonies of these primitive settlers on
terra firma. On the mound of the Lindenhof, the Helvetians
erected the first fortress of "Turicum/' which in the year
58 B.C., after the battle of Bibrakte, fell under the power of
the Romans. When the Romans withdrew their legions the
Alemanns became masters of the country, and the Roman
Turicum became Alemannic Zurich. Lender the dominion of
the German kings and emperors the town acquired importance
through the monasteries and chapter of the Fraumiinster and
Grossmiinster, the latter of which is said to have been
founded by Charlemagne and the former, in 853, by Louis the
German, who appointed his daughter, Hildegard, as Lady
Abbess.
The city enjoys a wonderful situation on the north end of
the charming lake, nestling between gently sloping shores,
[79]
vineyards and orchards, imposing villas and flourishing vil-
lages. In the background tower the snow-covered giants of
the Alps. The River Limmat divides the town into the "Alt-
stadt" (old town) and the "Neu-Stadt" (new town). While
the former reminds one forcibly of the past, the latter,
especially such parts of it as the Bahnhofstrasse give us the
impression of an intensely busy modern town, where brilliant
shops and stately buildings testify to its commercial standmg
and importance. These contrasts of the old and the new, the
practical and the artistic, constitute the greatest charm of
Ziirich.
The Swiss National Museum, a stately building in mediaeval
style, with a unique historical collection, is the special pride of
the town, and the Kiinstlerhaus (Art Gallery) containing pic-
tures of the famous Swiss painters, Borklin, Welti and Hodler
is another favored haunt of artists and lovers of art. Beauti-
ful theatres and spacious concert halls, among which the great
Tonhalle is internationally known, are dignified temples of
drama and music in which classic and modern plays, operas
and operettas are successfully given.
Zurich's most famous place of worship is undoubtedly the
Grossmiinster, erected in the Romanesque style with the upper
stories of the towers completed later in the Gothic style. On
the west tower is enthroned Charlemagne with gilded crown
and sword in recognition of his donations to the church. The
interior contains pillars with Romanesque capitals, and three
large modern stained-glass windows decorate the choir. The
early 13th Century cloisters have been restored and are Vv^ell
worthy of a careful visit. <
The Grossmiinster is moreover famous for its intimate con-
nection with the great Swiss Reformer Zwingli who, for a
period of twelve years, beginning with New Year's day, 1519,
was in charge of this church. A monument is erected to his
memory at the chancel end of the former Wasserkirche lying
[80]
opposite. This particular edifice contains now the most inter-
esting municipal library.
Ziirich has often been described as an intellectual paradise.
It is the birthplace of the great pedagogue Heinrich Pesta-
lozzi, whose methods of education were adopted little by little
by every civilized country. It is the site of the Swiss Poly-
technical School, of a university and a number of private and
preparatory institutions in which young people from all parts
of the world are educated.
Benevenuto Cellini, the celebrated sculptor of three and one-
half centuries ago, termed Zurich an "exquisite gem, worthy
of all admiration" and this holds true to-day.
There are innumerable pleasant walks and easy excursions
in the immediate vicinity of the town. Especially frequented
are the delightful woods on the Ziirichberg and the Uetliberg
(2677 feet a/s) as well as the Valley of the Sihl. Sport at
Zurich is at its best including golf.
Rapperswil (1350 feet a/s), picturesquely situated at the
upper end of the lake, reached either by boat or train, is
worthy of a visit. The old castle, dating from the 14th
Century, contained the Polish national collection of treas-
ures and relics until 1925 when they were removed to
Poland.
Traveling from Ziirich by railway along the left bank of
the lake, the first point of note is
Thalwil (1436 feet a/s), a very busy silk manufacturing
town, doubly important as the junction of the two main lines
from Central Switzerland (Lucerne) and the Orisons. At
Wadenswil (1348 feet a/s) a line branches off to the
famous pilgrimage place of Einsiedeln with its extensive
Benedictine Monastery and sacred shrines, visited yearly by
more than 1(X),0(X) pilgrims and tourists. At
Pfaffikon connection is made wit>h Rapperswil on the
right bank of the lake.
[81]
Castle of Rapperswil
At Ziegelbriicke, a station before the line skirts th'-
romantic Wallen Sec, a branch line enters into the charm
ing- Glarnerland, where Nafels (1434 feet a/s) is the firs';
point of interest en route. It was in this region where on
April 9, 1388, the natives freed themselves from Austrian
tyranny and in the Rautifelder, where eleven attacks weri
made, stand eleven memorial stones, which are visited
yearly by the people of Glariis on the anniversary day.
A short distance higher up beckons the tiny villagt; o^
Netstal (1485 feet a/s), well known as the entrance *o the
Klontal, one of the most exquisite Alpine valleys in Switzer-
land, with a lake whose perfect beauty has been the inspiration
of countless artists and poets. From Netstal the '■ailway
reaches
Glarus (1490 feet a/s), the capital of the Canton of '.his
name, situated at the foot of the noble Glarnisch. Although
it occupies a part of the country which possesses a pronounced
pastoral character, Glarus has, besides its dairying, many
thriving industries such as wool-weaving, cotton-spinning and
dyeing. As the city was the victim of several disastrous fires
it possesses a rather modern appearance. However, it is not
without its interesting features, and the church which is har-
moniously shared between Protestants and Catholics, the town
hall and other public buildings are well worth a visit.
Glarus is an excellent center for a variety of delightful
excursions for amateur and experienfed climbers.
An electric railway leading from Schwanden (1720 feet
a/s), a thriving village above Glarus, to the summer resort of
Elm (3220 feet a/s) has helped to enliven the lovely Sernf
Valley, which is another paradise for Alpinists. The interest-
ing, but rather fatiguing Segnes Pass leads in eight hours
from Elm to Flims in the Grisons (page 91), and the equally
strenuous Panixcr Pass connects in 9>^ hours with //««£: in
the Grisons (page 102).
[83]
One of the most important points in the Canton of Glarus
is Linthal (2168 feet a/s), once a forgotten hamlet and now
a pleasing resort. It is the starting point for the much ad-
mired Klausen Pass (6437 feet a/s) leading to Altdorf (page
76.) Being now covered by post auto-busses; the traffic on
this scenic Alpine highway has greatly increased and a drive
over the Klausen is certainly well worth while.
The Fatschbach Falls, the Thierfehd, the Ueli Alp and the
wondrous array of mountains all around combine to make
Linthal one of the most delightful places for persons who
seek beautiful scenery and a choice of easy and more difficult
excursions and mountain tours.
A cable railway climbs from Linthal to
Braunwald (4113 feet a/s), an Alpine resort of poetic
charm whose sunburnt chalets lie scattered here and there
on the undulating slopes of the Glarnisch (9580 feet a/s),
half hidden by luxuriant maple and fir trees.
Retracing our steps via Nafels to Weesen (1404 feet a/s),
a smart little resort on the Wallen See, we now skirt this
truly superb lake to the end, i.e., to
Wallenstadt (1400 feet a/s), whence the line takes a
southeasterly direction via Sargans to
Ragaz-Pfafers (1500 feet a/s) with its world renowned
thermal springs, prettily situated at the mouth of the boister-
ous Tamina. This is one of the favorite Swiss Spas and a
much frequented intermediate station to and from the
Grisons health resorts. With its magnificent gorge of the
Tamina and its great choice of excursions into the surround-
ing mountain realm, Ragaz is not only a delightful place to
sojourn for the visitors who take the cure, but can also be
made headquarters by tourists bent upon climbing achieve-
ments. Ragaz has a golf course of 9 holes.
[84]
Leaving Zurich in the opposite direction via Biilach and
Eglisau the traveler reaches
Schaffhausen (1332 feet a/s), whose well preserved
mediaeval buildings give the town the unmistakable stamp of
a Swabian town of the empire. It well deserves the name of
"Nuremberg of Switzerland." The Romanesque Cathedral
(1101 A.D.), now a Protestant church, is of particular interest.
The cloisters (Kreuzgang) are partly Romanesque, partly
Gothic. The churchyard was once the burial place of the
nobility and is now a picturesque wilderness. The old bell,
cast in 1486, with the inscription, "Vivos voco, mortuos
plango, fulgura frango," which suggested to Schiller his im-
mortal "Song of the Bell" was replaced in 1898 by a new one
with the same inscription. On the Fronweg-Platz is the ven-
erable Grosse Haus, a patrician mansion, erected in the 14th
Century and renovated since. The Munot, a stronghold from
the 16th Century, with walls 16 feet thick, commands the town.
The Rathaus with its artistically panelled hall, the Museum of
Natural History, the many painted houses and fountain
statues, never fail to delight the lover of the quaint and
ancient. But Schafifhausen is primarily associated with the
Falls of the Rhine "l
Station >- reached by train or trolley.
Neuhausen (1445 feet a/s) J
Here the Rhine descends 380 feet wide in a 100-foot
plunge, over an irregular rocky ledge. It is one of the finest
cascades in Europe, and who could describe it better than
Ruskin?
"Stand for an hour beside the Falls of Schaffhausen, on the
north side, where the rapids are long, and watch how the
vault of water first bends unbroken in pure polished velocity
over the arching rocks at the brow of the cataract, covering
them with a dome of crystal twenty feet thick, so swift that
its motion is unseen except when a foam-globe from above
[85]
darts over it like a falling star; and how the trees are lighted
above it under all their leaves at the instant that it breaks into
foam ; and how all the hollows of that foam burn with green
fire, like so much shattering chrysoprase; and how, ever and
anon startling you with its white flash, a jet of spray leaps
out, hissing, like a rocket bursting in the wind and driven
away in dust, filling the air with light; and how, through the
curdling wreaths of the restless, crashing abyss below, the
blue of the water, paled by the foam in its body, shows purer
than the sky through white rain cloud ; while the shuddering
iris stoops in tremulous stillness over all, fading and flushing
alternately through the chocking spray and shattered sun-
shine, hiding itself at last among the thick golden leaves which
toss to and fro in syrapathy with the wild waters, their drip-
ping masses lifted at intervals, like sheaves of loaded corn, by
some stronger gush from the cataract, and bowed again upon
the mossy rocks as its roar dies away."
From Neuhausen we may return to Zurich via the busy
manufacturing town of Winterthur and visit the Castle of
Kyburg, one of the best preserved mediaeval strongholds, or
we may continue our trip by rail to the region of Lake
Constance.
A charming trip is by steamer from Schaffhausen up the
Rhine, passing the picturesque old town of
Stein am Rhein (1364 feet a/s) with the stately Castle
of Hohenklingen and several other pretty villages and
romantic ruins sprinkled in between; a delightful journey
indeed, until one reaches the old imperial town of
Constance on the southern shore of the Bodensee.
Proceeding along the lake via the chief Swiss stations of
Romanshorn, Arbon and Rorschach, we now turn inland to
St. Gall (2195 feet a/s) the famous embroidery seat of
modern days and one of the most influential centers of
Christian, civilization in Central Europe., The city owes, its
[861
foundation to the Irish Apostle,, Callus, who, ia the year 614,
founded a hermitage near the broolc,. Steinach.. , In. the result-
ing monastery of St. Gall, the strict, rules o£ the Irish Church;
were enforced, until 720, wheni those of St.. Benedict were
substituted by an abbot, Othmar. In: 1061, the Abbot ISTorpert
of St. Call erected, a. conv.cnt oit the Sitter River, the place
taking the name o£ Abbatis Cclla-Appenzell,. and. the abbots
of St. Gall became the dominating influence irt the land until
the subsequently much oppressed, mountaineers, resorted to,
force and succeeded in shaking off their yoke..
The Benedictine Abbejr itsel£ was suppressed in 1805', and
accommodates now the cantonal offices, the bishop's residence
and the famous library. This library comprises; some 30,000
volumes and a wealth o£ valuable manuscripts.. It prides itself
for instance o£ the celebrated "Psalteruitni Aureum" — the
Golden Psalter — so-called on account of its golden writing cm
white parchment; of a Nibelungenlied of the 13th Century,
of manuscripts relating; to Parsifal and other heroes sung by
Wagner..
The abbey church, itself, rebuilt iru 1756-6S in the Rococo
style, is very imposing- without and lavishly decorated iuside.
In addition to the' finely carved choir stalls and a besutifuL
iron choir screen,, which form one of the chief attractions of
the interior, the organ,, the chancel, the lovely frescoes on the
ceiling and the church treasury are renowned features of this;
Cathedral..
The town is extremely rich in a. variety of enjoyable excur-
sions, particularly into the rich; pastureland of the Canton of
Apptnzcll, with such delightful places as;
Heiden (2657 feet a/s), Trogen. (2975' feet a/s), Speicher
(3070 feet a/s) and Gais (3075 feet a/s).
The capital of this diminutive Canton
Appenzell (2595 feet a/s) deserves also a visit.. Its
foundation dates back to 1061. a.d.,. and the place has to. day
[87]
yet retained much of its old-fashioned charm. Hand-
embroidery is a highly developed home industry in this
region. In close proximity is
Weissbad (2680 feet a/s), a well-known health resort,
and about one hour and a half above, in an interesting and
extensive region of caves, which is noted for prehistoric finds,
stands the picturesque retreat of the Wildkirchli, whose
founder, a priest from Appenzell, erected here in the year
1656 a little hermitage with chapel for himself. In the year
1679 he willed the Wildkirchli to the State of Innerrhoden,
specifying that it should remain a hermitage forever. Some
16 hermits lived consecutively in this mountainous solitude,
until 1851, when the hermit's dwelling was abandoned as such
and transformed into a commodious inn, in order to accom-
modate the great number of pilgrims and tourists who yearly
flock to the hermit's chapel of St. Michael. A memorial
tablet in the vicinity also reminds of the poet Victor von
Scheffel, author of "Ekkehard," who completed this well-
known novel up here in the year 1854.
From here the Ebenalp (5250 feet a/s), the Seealpsee (3747
feet a/s) and the Hohen Kasten (5900 feet a/s) are favorite
excursion points. From
Herisau (2550 feet a/s), another delightful spot in this
region, we continue our trip into the charming and histori-
cally known Toggenburg, with the chief places of Lichten-
steig, Wattwil, Ebnat, Kappel and Nesslau (2470 feet a/s).
A carriage road connects with Wildhaus (3600 feet a/s),
starting point for excursions into the higher Alpine region of
the Churfirsten (7576 feet a/s) and Santis (8216 feet a/s)
group.
The new post road from Wildhaus connects with Buchs in
the Rhine Valley, frontier station of the Ziirich-Vienna line,
whence we may proceed to the Grisons.
Tschierva Glacier with Piz Rosegg
The Grisons
The Grisons, Switzerland's largest canton, may readily be
described as an Alpine wonderland. It is broken up by no
fewer than 150 valleys, varying greatly in size, traversed by
wild rushing torrents and streams and animated by roaring
waterfalls and transparent mountain lakes. Dark green fii-
woods and velvety pastures cover the slopes and form the
transition from the region of the hills to the realm of the high
Alps.
While the unusually mountainous nature of this section of
the country would lead one to believe that its history would
be of comparatively modern date, existing records show that
Raetus, Prince of the Etruscan tribe, had invaded this district
as early as 600 b.c. He named the conquered territory
Rhaetia, but the same included at that time the Tyrol and
Vorarlberg, the Bavarian highlands and the northern stretch
of Lombardy as well.
One of the most venerable spots in the entire region is
Chur or Coire (1936 feet a/s), the capital of the Canton,
which traces its foundation back to the Roman Era, when it
was generally known as Curia Rhaetorum. The old quarters
of this unpretentious, yet strangely fascinating city prove an
inspiration to photographers and artists. Narrow, crudely
paved streets; massive stone houses with quaintly contrived
entrances, stairs and gates; here a turn and there a turn and
suddenly a diminutive open square, suitable for small public
gatherings in comparative safety and privacy, an important
factor in feudal days. One of these picturesque haunts is
known as — "der siisse Winkel" — "the sweet corner," and when
beheld in the silvery glimmer of a full moon, this nook is
indeed worthy of its designation.
What is known as the Episcopal Court occupies high ground.
Here the Cathedral of St. Lucius, begun in the 12th Century
and consecrated in 1282, and the Bishop's Palace, face upon a
[90]
square, adorned with a fountain, the entire quarter being
surrounded with walls, so that its general appearance is
like a fortress. The bishopric is first mentioned in the Acts
of a Synod of Milan, in 452; but there is the legend of a mis-
sionary, a certain Saint Lucius, from Britain, who is supposed
to have established himself here at an earlier time. In close
vicinity of Chur are the
Baths of Passugg (2720 feet a/s), much frequented for
the curative effects of their chalybeate springs. A pleasant
excursion from Chur is per post auto-bus to Parpan (4356
fee a/s), Lenzerheide (4844 feet a/s) and Tiefenkastel
(2811 feet a/s), all three charming summer and winter
resorts.
Arosa (5904 feet a/s), reached from Chur by one of the
most picturesque electric railways, is one of the highest health
resorts in the country. It reposes like a jewel on a cushion
of luxuriant green; fragrant pine foresis and a glorious
cluster of snow-crowned Alpine peaks form its setting. On
account of its lofty, sunny position, which is nevertheless
sheltered, Arosa has become one of the most famous Swiss
health and pleasure resorts.
From Chur the main route takes us to
Reichenau-Tamins (1995 feet a/s), whence post auto-
busses take visitors to
Flims-Waldhaus (3621 feet a/s), a forest-enclosed resort
on the romantic Lake of Cauma.
The Segnes group with Piz Segues (10,230 feet a/s) forms
inviting ground for mountaineering excursions.
Proceeding from Reichenau in a southerly direction we
soon reach
Thusis (2369 feet a/s), a friendly town encircled by
luxuriant orchards — and yet in closest vicinity to one of the
wildest chasms which nature has wrought into the Grisons
mountains — the Via Mala, a gorge of stupendous grandeur in
[91] .
the depths of which the Rhine is thundering in ceaseless indig-
nation against its oppressing forces.
From here the Post road leads via the lovely health
resort of Andeer (3212 feet a/s), (whence Cresta, 6438 feet
a/s, another climatic resort in the Aversertal is reached) to
Spliigen, excursions which can be highly recommended. From
Spliigen the diligence connects via the Spliigen Pass with
Chiayenna (page 96), and another Alpine Post leads via
the San Bernardino Pass (4821 feet a/s) to Mesocco, whence
connection is made by rail with Bellinzona (page 105).
The section of the Rhaetian Railway between Thusis and
St. Aloritz is known as the Albula line. While it is but 38.34
miles long, the nature of the mountains traversed is such that
the number and length of the tunnels and viaducts on this
line are extraordinarily great. Besides the Albula tunnel,
which is 3f4 miles in length, and which is the longest tunnel
ever built on a narrow gauge railway, there are 38 smaller
tunnels, the total length of which is 33,350 feet. While a trip
over this road of scenic and technical wonders has always been
a rare delight, it has become more so still, since every possible
inconvenience through smoke in tunnels has been eliminated
with the electrification of the railway.
From Thusis the railroad serves in succession Tiefenkastel
(see page 91), Alvaneu (3285 feet a/s) with the well fre-
quented Baths of Alvaneu, Filisur (3550 feet a/s) at the
junction of the line from Davos, BergUn (4505 feet a/s), a
pretty village which has lately also joined the rank of the
winter stations; Preda (5880 feet a/s), the starting point of
the interesting old Albula Road, which leads across to Ponte
in the Upper Engadine, and Bevers (5620 feet a/s) at the
foot of the Crasta Mora, whence a branch line of the
Rhaetian Railway proceeds to Schuls-Vuloera-Tarasp in
the Lower Engadine. (See page 98).
The next point of interest en route is Samaden (5670 feet
[92]
a/s), the chief locality of the Upper Engadine, with many
handsome private dwellings, whose style of architecture is
typical of this region.
The village enjoys a particularly fine location in full view
of the wondrous Bernina chain with its unforgetable group
of peaks. Piz Palu (12,835 feet), Piz Morteratsch (12,317
feet), Piz Tschierva (11,693 feet), Piz Roseg (12,934 feet),
Piz Rosatsch (10,100 feet) and Piz della Margna (10,376
feet) — ^they are indeed true monarchs of the Alps and the
ambition of all experienced climbers.
Samaden offers a great variety of delightful walks through
woods and pastures and is an ideal starting point for many
interesting excursions which can safely be made by amateur
climbers.
An almost obligatory trip is to the Muottas Muraigl (8200
feet a/s), easily reached by a mountain railway; from this
point the visitor will enjoy a far-sweeping outlook on the
wonder valley of the Tnn. To golfers Samaden is a particu-
larly important spot in the Grisons, possessing, as it does, a
perfect 18-hole course with well-equipped club house. A
branch line of the railway proceeds from Samaden to
Pontresina (page 96).
Passing Celerina (5685 feet a/s), a very pleasant summer
and winter resort, we presently reach St. Moritz, this world
famous summer resort and winter sport center, which is the
terminus of the Upper Engadine section of the Rhaetian
Railway.
»St. Moritz lies on the beautiful lake of the same name in
the loftiest valley in Europe, on the sunny slope of Piz Nair
dO,045 feet), and although it has an altitude of 6089 feet a/s,
it is celebrated for the extraordinary wealth of its flora.
While it is generally known as a very modern leader of sports
and fashions, it has nevertheless a very old history, it being
referred to as a pilgrimage place in the 15th Century, The
[93]
leaning tower of the old church, which is all that is left of
that edifice and which is a characteristic feature of the village,
dates back to the year 1573.
The resort is divided into two sections, "the village" and
"the Baths," the latter with extensive cure establishments
where the health-giving chalybeate waters, whose wonderful
qualities were already known in the Roman era, are taken
advantage of by visitors from all lands.
The most delightful walks and drives can be taken from
here and the place offers facilities for all sports, including
golf,
Campfer (6020 feet a/s), a diminutive village at the en-
trance to the Suvretta Valley, is the first resort we
encounter on this excursion. Its radiant reflection is mir-
rored in the crystal depths of its charming lake which we
follow to Silvaplana (5955 feet a/s), another fairy-like spot
with another and larger lake. Silvaplana is situated on the
alluvial deposits of the j'ulier brook, which separates these
two lakes of Campfer and Silvaplana.
Skirting the Lake of Silvaplana we next reach
Sils (5930 feet a/s), embracing the picturesque hamlets of
Sils-Baselgia and Sils IMaria ; from the latter a most enchant-
ing Walk can be had into the lovely Fex Valley. From Sils
the magnificent Lake, of Sils extends to
Maloja (5940 feet a/s), the summit of the lowest pass
between Switzerland and Italy, which descends rapidly from
here into the Val Bregaglia.
Every one of the little villages scattered along this wonder
road of transparent Alpine lakes may be considered as excel-
lent headquarters for a great variety of delightful excursions
and Alpine tours, and it is therefore not surprising that this
lofty realm is also well patronized during the season of white.
At Maloja are ten large glacier mills or giant cauldrons
which serve as an excellent illustration of the action of the
[94]
Dischina Valley near Davos
The Watering Place of Tarasp-Vulpera
glacier which once covered this region. One of the mul-
titude of excursions which can be made from Maloja should
include a visit to the Lunghino Lake from which the River
Inn emerges. Maloja has a 9 hole golf course.
From Maloja a post road leads to Chiavenna with connec-
tion to the Lake of Como.
From Silvaplana a post road leads over the Julier Pass to
Tiefenkastel, then to Churwalden-Chur (page 90).
From St. Moritz we now proceed by the electric Bernina
Railway via Celerina to
Pontresina (5915 feet a/s), one of the most enchantingly
situated spots in the Upper Engadine. Sombre pine forests
encircle this stately village which on account of its very
convenient proximity to the finest glaciers and mountains
in the Grisons is equally well patronized in summer and
in winter. Shady wood promenades lure those who cannot
undertake strenuous excursions and the glorious outlook
enjoyed from the same into the wondrous Roseg Valley and
adjacent peaks fills the beholder with visions of paradise.
Excursions to the Morteratsch and Roseg glaciers can be
taken by everybody, as the available transportation facilities
make this a delightful half-day's outing; more ambitious
walkers may undertake the easy lYz hours' climb of the
Schafberg (8965 feet a/s), a splendid point of view, which
can also be reached by donkey. A little more fatiguing is
the ascent of Piz Languard (10,716 feet a/s), requiring about
four hours, but this expedition would provide good training
for a still more strenuous climb.
From Pontresina the Bernina Railway, one of the most
scenic of Swiss Alpine railways, follows the old Bernina
Post Road over the Pass to Tirano in Italy. Morteratsch,
this gate of the glacier of the same name, Bernina Hospice
(7575 feet a/s) romantically situated above the Lago
Bianco facing the Cambrena Glacier, Alp Griim (7182 feet
[96]
a/s) where the Palii Glacier and the Poschiavo Valley be-
low form an unforgetable picture, they are spots on the
line which make this trip one of the obligatory outings from
the Upper Engadine.
This marvelous railway is kept open all the year, powerful
locomotives being employed in winter for the clearing of the
tracks from snow.
From Alp Griim the line descends in wonderful curves to
Poschiavo (3315 feet a/s), the ancient little capital of the
valley, and proceeds via Brusio (2477 feet a/s) and Campo
Cologne (1835 feet a/s) (the frontier station) to Tirano,
starting point of the railway to Colico on Lake Como, and of
the Alpine highway to Bormio-Stelvio Pass and Trafoi. Near
Poschiavo is Le Prese (3156 feet a/s), a watering place with
alkaline and sulphurous springs.
From the heights of the Upper Engadine, which extends
from Maloja to Punt Ota in a distance of 25 miles and with
an average altitude of 6000 feet a/s, we now proceed by a
branch line of the Rhaetian Railway to the Lower Engadine,
which reaches as far as Martinsbruck on the Tyrolese fron-
tier, a distance of 331/2 miles, with an altitude gradually
descending from 4920 to 3280 feet a/s. Owing to the less
elevated situation, the climate in the Lower Engadine is con-
siderably warmer than in the Upper Engadine and vegetation
is consequently far more luxuriant. Meadows and fields clad
with the most beautiful of verdure and flowers rise from the
banks of the River Inn and all the mountain heights are cov-
ered with splendid woods. Ruins of ancient strongholds and
castles peep here and there through the dark-green forests —
silent reminders of the eventful days gone by when this part
of Switzerland had to endure the yoke of Austrian tyranny.
From Samaden the train winds its way past Ponte to
Zucz (5615 feet a/s), a stately village which once held
the rank of capital of the Engadine, with a number of typical
[97]
Engadine houses and the ancient "Tuor," the fcmer seat of
the aristocratic Grisons fc.mily von Planta. A h'tle further
down are
Scanfs (5413 feet a/s) and Cinuskel (5300 feet a/s), two
delightful Alpine resorts, and presently we perceive the pic-
turesque old wooden bridge, the "Punt Ota," which forma the
dividing line between the Upper and Lower Engadine.
The valley nor- contracts and the train winds its way
through several tunnels on to
Zernez (4910 feet a/s), the starting point of the Ofen
Pass to Santa Maria (whence the Umbrail leads to the
Stelvio) and Aliinster (whence a diligence runs to Mais).
Zernez is also a starting point for the Swiss National Park,
a great reservation established on the same principle as the
American National parks, where flora and fauna have for
almost two decades been left entirely undisturbed.
Siis (4689 feet a/s), another delightful Engadine village
with a wealth of the quaint and curious, and very fine carna-
tion nurseries, is the starting point for a walk or drive
Dver the Flixela Pass leading to Davos.
Past the picturesque resorts of Lavin (4690 feet a/s),
Guarda (5423 feet a/s) and Ardetz (4812 feet a/s) we still
follow the course of the Inn, but the railroad is now high
above the deeply embedded river. The landscape assumes a
more and more romantic aspect until we reach
Tarasp-Schuls-Vulpera, one of Europe's finest spas,
formed by a cluster of three resorts separated from each
other by a short walking distance only.
While Schuls (4080 feet a/s) is the terminal of the railroad,
carriages are at the disposal of guests of Tarasp (3946 feet
a/s), with its extensive Kurhaus establishments, and Vulpera
(4183 feet a/s), facing Schuls on the opposite side of the
river, a gateway also to the National Park and starting point
for numerous tours and climbing expeditions.
[98]
Chronicles relate how in the 15th and 16th centuries a few
solitary pilgrims in quest of health journeyed to the "salt-
springs" of Tarasp; how they took the waters there but were
guided by some strange instinct to establish their temporary
homes higher up, on the sunlit plateau where the hotels of
Vulpera, enframed by woods and meadows, beckon to 20th
Century visitors.
One of the most delightful side trips to be made from Vul-
pera is to the beautifully renovated Castle of Tarasp, the seat
of the Austrian Ciovernors up to 1803, and at present the
home of the ex-Duke and ex-Duchess of Hessen. A tiny lake
and a dear little hamlet dream at the foot of this rocky
height which is one of the best known landmarks in the
country. Facing Vul] sra on the other side of the Inn beckons
the pretty resort of Fetan (5404 feet a/s).
From Schuls a diligence road leads to
Val Sinestra (5000 feet a/s), a well-known watering
place, and to ^lartinsl uck, thence to Austria.
The Fliiela Pass (7835 feet a/s), between Siis and Davos,
forms the connecting link between the Lower Engadihe and
the 'Davos Valley. It is an ancient thoroughfare, but the
present scientifically built road dates back only to 1868. A
comfortable little hotel, described as "the Hospice," on the
summit caters to travelers and wayfarers. In the vicinity
are two diminutive lakes of entirely different characteristics ;
one with greenish-white glacier water, the other with trans-
parently clear spring water. As this region offers an unsu-
ally large variety of mountain excursions, it is more and more
becoming the rendezvous of Alpinists in summer and winter.
Skis are, of course, the means of locomotion during the
season of white.
Davos (5200 feet a/s). formerly principally known as one
of the foremost pioneers among the Swiss health resorts, is —
on account of its splendid scenic advantages — steadily gaining
[100]
in popularity as a tourist and sport center. Divided into two
distinct quarters, Dorf and Platz, this formerly tiny settle-
ment has become a miniature capital of the Grisons high-
lands, with imposing hotels and restaurants, and shops, whose
ultra-smart displays never fail to attract and delight the
feminine visitors.
As the climatic-curative advantages of Davos are about
equal throughout the year it is frequented in summer as an
enchanting abode for a restful change.
Priding itself with the largest skating rink in Europe, with
numerous opportunities for fine ski tours to realms of varying
altitude, and a choice of wonderful toboggan and bob-sleigh
runs, this resort is one of the liveliest sport centers in the land
of the Alps in winter. As a health resort it is primarily vis-
ited for chest, throat and nerve complaints, but amateur and
expert climbers regard Davos as a veritable paradise for inter-
esting tours and ascents.
A bridle path leads from Davos over the Strela Pass into
the Schanfigg Valley, with Arosa (page 91) and the Sca-
letta Pass, forms a direct connection with Scanfs in the
Upper Engadine. Train connection can be made via
Wiesen and Spinabad (4816 feet) with Filisur (page 92).
Klosters (3965 feet a/s), consisting of three hamletc,
Dorfli, Platz and Briicke, is another pleasant summer resort
and winter sport center, offering wonderful excursions into
the glaciers of the Silvretta group, etc. We pass Serneus
(3225 feet a/s), a watering place, and reach
Kiiblis (2664 feet a/s), another picturesque village lower
down, whence a coach road leads to the charming resort of
St. Antonien (4659 feet a/s). Fideris with Fideris Baths
(3463 feet a/s), the latter known for its mineral springs,
are charming places a little further on from Kiiblis.
Past Landquart this Prattigau branch of the Rhaetian
Railway leads to Chur.
[101]
Starting from Chur via Reichenau we now proceed into the
Grisons Oberland, to Ilanz and Disentis.
The numerous quaint villages along and in the neighbor-
hood of the line are well worth a visit. There is
Versan-Safien (2095 feet a/s) for instance, the starting
point for the Safien Valley, which is a veritable paradise for
botanists and lovers of flowers. The next village,
Valendas (2700 feet a/s), possesses a most unique foun-
tain surmounted by a mermaid wearing an enormously large
hat. The statue dates from the 18th Century, when a retired
Dutch Admiral settled here, together with some of his nautical
acquaintances, and it is supposed that this style of fountain
was chosen as a reminder of the sea.
Presently we reach
Ilanz (2345 feet a/s) the "first town on the Rhine," with
many beautiful old-fashioned houses, churches and remainders
of former fortifications. It is dominated by Piz Mundaun,
the Rigi of the Grisons Oberland.
History voices her presence everywhere. There is
Truns (2835 feet a/s), a prosperous little commune with
an ancient church and Rathaus, decorated with fine portraits
and coat-of-arms. Most famous, however, are the exquisite
frescoes of St. Ann's Chapel, built in memory of the forma-
tion of the "Gray League" in 1424 a.d.
Somvix (3440 feet a/s), a beautifully situated Alpine vil-
lage, beckons a little farther on. Here opens the pretty
Somvix Valley with the well known Teniger Bad (4176 feet
a/s), a favorite Spa with chalybeate springs.
And now we reach
Disentis (3765 feet a/s), the seat of the oldest existing
Monastery in Switzerland, which was founded by St. Sigis-
bert, a disciple of St. Columbanus, in the year 614 a.d.
Disentis has become particularly famous as a health resort on
account of its strong radio-active mineral spring, which was
[102]
Locarno
found in the extensive park of the Kurhaus Disentiserhof.
The village enjoys a most ideal situation. It is embedded on
a carpet of soft green meadows and encircled by splendid
woods over which tower the Alps in glorious splendor.
From Disentis we may leave the Grisons by diligence over
the Oberalp Pass to Andermatt and Goeschenen to connect
with the Gothard route (page 76) or proceed by diligence
via the Lukmanier road to Acquarossa (page 105).
Southern Switzerland
From the sedate north, with its luxuriously green pastures,
its fragrant forests and dainty homelike chalets, the electrified
St. Gothard Railway takes us within a brief fifteen minutes
through the tunnel into the sun-kissed land of Goethe's Hero-
ine. From Teutonic Switzerland we have entered the thresh-
old of Italian Switzerland, buoyant with sunshine, warmth and
color. Walnut and chestnut groves climb up the hillsides and
extensive areas of well-tended vineyards indicate that viti-
culture has attained a remarkably high degree in this region.
A distinctive southern brightness is prevalent everywhere,
from the gayly decorated houses to the brilliant Lombard
Campanile. The whole atmosphere has changed and the in-
habitants, too, show evidence of the proverbial light-hearted
southern temperament.
Airolo (3755 feet a/s) is at the southern end of the St.
Gothard Tunnel. A path leads to the picturesque lake of
Ritom (6000 feet a/s), which supplies the electric power for
the Gothard line, with the holiday resort of
Piora (6125 feet a/s). A path over the Uoma Pass (7257
feet a/s) connects with the post route Disentis-Acquarossa.
Above and along the course of the foaming Ticino winds
our track; frequent waterfalls relieve in silvery clouds the
monotony of the rocky mountain sides and a diminutive
chapel or shrine perched here and there high on a precipice
[104]
makes us wonder just why anybody could select such an inac-
cessible spot as a place of devotion.
Rodi-Fiesso (3100 feet a/s), Faido (2485 feet a/s),
Lavorgo (2025 feet a/s) and historical Giornico (1480 feet
a/s), picturesque villages situated on a section of the line
which abounds in technical marvels, pass in succession and
w^e reach
Biasca (971 feet a/s) an interesting village at the open-
ing of Val Blenio, where fig-trees and mulberries begin to
appear.
Acquarossa (1740 feet a/s), a much frequented watering
place, with arsenous chalybeate springs, is connected with
Biasca by rail, and a post route leads from Acquarossa to
Olivone (2925 feet a/s), the highest point of the valley.
From here the diligence road goes over the Lukmanier Pass
(6290 feet a/s) to Disentis (page 102), and a footpath
climbs over the Greina Pass into the Somvix Valley
(page 102).
Bellinzona (760 feet a/s), the picturesque capital of the
Canton of Ticino, is the key to the three passes over the St.
Gothard, the Lukmanier and the San Bernardino. The three
proud old fortresses which command every visitor's attention
are the Castle of San Alichele or Uri, the Castle of Monte-
bello or Schwyz and the Castle of Corbario or Unterwalden.
These names date back to the time when the strongholds were
the residence of the bailiffs of the three districts so desig-
nated near the Lake of Lucerne. These bailiffs also ruled
over the lower Ticino Valley.
An electric railway runs to Mesocco (2522 feet a/s), con-
necting there with the San Bernardino post route leading into
the Grisons.
From Bellinzona, branching off to the right is
Locarno (680 feet a/s) the fair queen of Lago Maggiore,
that beautiful lake which forms a connecting link between
[105]
the rugged glories of the Alps and the quiet fertile plains of
Lombardy. Locarno's history dates back to the time of the
Romans and Celts. It has gained added fame as seat of
the Security Conference of 1925.
The Piazza Grande, a great square, traverses the town
almost in its entire length from the quay to the Via Alia
Motta. On one side it is bordered by picturesque houses
with arcades, and on the other side lie the public gardens
enclosing the Casino and post ofifice. The center of the old
town with its many quaint little streets and numerous
ancient houses of fine architecture is the business quarter
and at the same time the site of various venerable churches.
Perched on a wooded rock high above the town, overlook-
ing the deep blue lake, is the pilgrimage church of the
Madonna del -Sasso reached by the funicular. A footpath
leads up a very steep mountainside and is lined with the
fourteen Stations of the Cross. Natives and visiting pilgrims,
in outlandish garb, are often in evidence on this road.
On the hilltop the peaceful stillness of the cloisters dwells.
The interior of the church, which was founded in 1480 and
rebuilt in 1569, contains two choice oil paintings, "The Flight
Into Egypt," by Bramantino and "The Entombment," by
Ciseri. Locarno is now only at a few hours from Lausanne
by the electric railway leading through the Centovalli to
Domodossola and connecting there with the Simplon line.
Bignasco in the Valle Maggia, a picturesque vale with
hamlets and villages amidst an almost tropical vegetation,
and yet with a climate rarely exceeding 82° Fahrenheit,
is a delight, and the outskirts of the town itself, at Muralto
on the left and at Ascona, Ronco and Brissago on the right,
one encounters some of the most exquisite bits of southern
life.
[107]
Lugano (932 feet a/s), direct on the Gothard line, or
reached via Luino-Ponte Tresa by steamer and rail, presents
with its wonderful suburbs of Paradise and Cassarate a
picture of a miniature Naples.
Lugano, like Locarno, traces its origin back to the Roman
era. By the 10th Century the town had acquired some degree
of importance, for Otto I, Emperor of Germany, presented
the marketplace to Bishop Adelgirus of Como. For five
centuries Lugano and the surrounding country were the
scenes of continual conflicts between the Lords of Como and
Milan and other Italian factions. Later on, under the rule
of the Confederated Cantons, Lugano enjoyed peace for more
than three centuries, and in 1803 it became a regular member
of the Swiss Confederation.
The old town, with narrow arcaded streets, lies on a strip
of flat land on the shore of the lake, but the new town, a
smart community of hotels and villas, spreads itself in
amphitheatre fashion on the lake shore and low hills adjoin-
ing. The church of Santa Maria degli Angioli, bears a fine
fresco by Luini in three sections of "The Passion," "The Last
Supper" and "The Madonna." Further specimens of Luini's
work or that of his pupils may be found in various other
churches in the district. The Cathedral of San Lorenzo
possesses a costly marble facade by Tommaso Rodari and a
statue of rare beauty, "La Desolazione" (Desolation) by
Vincenzo Vela, adorns the city park.
Nearby Ligornetto prides itself with the Museum Vela,
the dignified home of the works of Vincenzo Vela, one of
Switzerland's most prominent sculptors.
The Lake of Lugano is the very embodiment of bewitch-
ing loveliness and tender harmony. 'Day and night, dawn and
twilight, they all reveal some special charm of vhis heavenly
expanse of water, this glorious wonder which reposes in fairy
bowers of blossoms, shrubberies and trees.
[108]
Delightful excursion points beckon here in bewildering
numbers:
Castagnola, Gandria, Sorengo, Morcote and Melide, Ca-
polago whence a railway leads to the summit of Monte
Generoso — the Rigi of the South — Cassarate with a funicular
to the Monte Bre. A mile long cable railway leads also to
the Monte San Salvatore, the immediate guardian of Lugano.
Golf is the favorite sport in this paradise.
From Lugano we may proceed by rail or boat to Ponte
Tresa, thence by rail to Luino and steamer to the Borro-
mean Islands, Pallanza, Stresa, Baveno, joining the Sim-
plon route; or we may reach the Lake of Como region via
Chiasso or via Porlezza Menaggio-Bellagio.
Gandria near Lugano
[109]
PAGE
Aarau 16
Accommodation . . 4
Acquarossa 105
Adelboden 61
Aeschi 61
Aigle 35
Airolo 104
Aletsch Glacier.. 59
Alp Griim 96
Alpnachstad .... 77
Altdorf 76
Alvaneu 92
Amsteg 76
Andeer 92
Andermatt 76
Appenzell 87
Arbon 86
Ardetz 98
Arolla 42
Arosa 91
Arth-Goldau 73
Ascona 107
Augst 13
Avenches 20
Axenfels 74
Axenstein 74
Axenstrasse .... 74
Baden 14
Baggage 6
Baldegg and Lake 11
Basle 9
Baveno 109
Beatenbucht .... 53
Beatenberg S3
Beckenried 74
Belalp 44
Bellagio 109
Bellinzona 105
Bergiin 92
Berisal 44
Berne 48
Bernese Oberland 48
Bevers 92
Bex-les-Bains ... Zl
Biasca 105
Bienne and Lake 17
Bignasco 107
Bloney 34
Bormio 97
Boromean Islands 109
Bouveret 35
Braunwald 84
INDEX
PAGE
Breithorn 43
Brienz and Lake. 60
Brigue (Brig) ... 44
Brissago 107
Brugg 14
Brunig Pass .... 11
Brunnen 74
Brusio 97
Buchs 88
Bulle 34
Burgdorf 52
Bijrgenstock .... 74
Biirglen 76
Campfer 94
Campocologno. . . . 97
Capolago 109
Cassarate 109
Castagnola 109
Castle of Chillon 34
Caux 34
Celerina 93
Chables 41
Chamby 66
Champery 35
Champex 41
Chamonix 38
Chandolin 42
Chateau d'Oeux.. 65
Chatel St. Denis. 34
Chatelard 38
Chasseral, Mount 18
Chexbres 34
Chesieres Ttl
Chiasso 109
Chiavenna 96
Chillon 34
Chur (Coire) 90
Churfirsten 88
Cinuskel 98
Clarens 34
Colico 97
Col de Pillon 65
Coire (Chur) 90
Como, Lake .... 109
Constance and Lake 86
Coppet 31
Corbeyrier 35
Cresta 92
Customs 6
Davos 100
Dent Blanche ... 43
Dent du Midi . . 37
PAGE
Delemont 17
Diablerets, Les. . 35
Disentis 102
Dom 43
Ebnat 88
Eggishorn 46
Eiger 56
Eigergletscher . . 56
Eigerwand 57
Eisnieer 57
Einsiedeln 81
Elm 83
Emmenthal 52
Engadine, Lower. 97
Engadine, LTpper. 93
Engelberg 74
Entlebuch 11
Erlenbach 63
Erstfeld 76
Estavayer 20
Expenses 4
Evolene 42
Faido 105
Falls of the Rhine 85
Fetan 100
Fideris 101
Fiesch 46
Filisur 92
Finhaut 38
Fionnay 41
Flinis 91
Fliiela Pass 98
Fliielen 76
FUiehli-Ranft ... 11
Friljourg 18
Frutigen 61
Furka Pass .... 48
Gais 87
Gandria 109
Genimi Pass .... 63
Geneva and Lake. 23
Gersau 74
Giessbach 60
Gimel 33
Giornico 105
Giswil 79
Glarus 83
Glarnisch 84
Ciletsch 46
Glion 34
Glovelier 17
Goeschenen 76
Goldau 1'!'
PAGE
Goppenstein .... 63
Gorges du Trient 38
Gornergrat 43
Great St. Bernard 38
Griesalp 61
Grimence 42
Grimmialp 63
Grimsel Pass . . 48
Grindelwald .... 60
Grisons 90
Gruben-Meiden . . 42
Griinen 52
Gruyeres 34
Gryon il
Gstaad •. . . . 65
Gsteig 65
Guarda 98
Gunten 53
Gurnigel 52
Gurtenkulm .... 52
Hallwil and Lake 11
Hapsburg, Castle 14
Harder 55
Heiden 87
Heimwehfluh ... 55
Herisau 88
Heustrich Baths.. 61
Hilterfingen .... 53
Hohle Gasse .... 11
Huttwil 52
Ilanz 102
Immensee 11
Interlaken 53
Iseltwald 60
Joch Pass 74
Julier Pass .... 96
Jungfrau 56
Jungfraujoch ... 58
Kandersteg 61
Kappel 88
Kelirsiten 74
Kerns-Kagiswil . 11
Klausen Pass. ... 84
Klosters 101
Konstanz and Lake 86
Kiiblis 101
Kiissnacht 77
La Chanx-de-fonds 18
Lac Noir 20
Langnau 52
Lausanne ^},
Lauterbrunnen . . 55
Lavey-les-Bains . . 37
Lavin 98
Lavorgo IDS
PAGE
Le Locle 18
Le Prese 97
Lenk 63
Lenzburg 11
Lenzerheide 91
Les Avants .... 65
Les Diablerets. . . 35
Les Hauderes ... 42
Les Marecottes . . 38
Les Pleiades. ... 34
Les Plans Zl
Les Rasses 20
Leuk 42
Leysin 35
Lichtensteig .... 88
Ligortietto 108
Linthal 84
Locarno and
Lake Maggiore 105
Lotschberg 61
Lourtier 41
Lucerne and Lake 66
Lugano and Lake 108
Luino 108
Lukmanier Pass. . 104
Lungern and Lake 79
Liitzelfluh 52
Lyss 20
Lyskamm 43
Macolin ; 17
Maloja 94
Mais 98
Marjelen Lake . . 46
Martigny 11
Martinsbruck ... 97
Matterhorn 43
Mayens de Sion . 42
Mauvoisin 41
Meiringen 60
Melchtal 79
Melide 109
Menaggio 109
Merligen 53
Mesocco 105
Mischabels 43
Monch 56
Montana-Vermala. 42
Montbovon 65
Mont Blanc .... 37
Mont Pelerin. ... 34
Mont Soleil 18
Monte Bre 109
Monte Generoso. . 109
Monte San
Salvatore 109
PACE
Monte Rosa 43
Monthey 35
Montreux 34
Morat and Lake 18
Morcote 109
Morel 45
Morges li
Morgins 35
Morschach 74
Moudon 18
Moutier 20
Miilenen 61
Muottas Muraigl. 93
Muralto 107
Miirren 56
Miinster 98
Nafels 83
National Park . . 98
Nesslau 88
Netstal 83
Neuchatel and Lake 18
Neuhausen 85
Nicsen 61
Noireniont 17
Nyon 31
Oberalp Pass ... 76
Oberhofen 53
Oey-Diemtigen . . 63
Ofen Pass 97
Olivone 105
Olten 16
Orsieres 38
Ouchy 33
Palezieux 20
Pallanza 109
Panixer Pass ... 83
Paradise 108
Parpan 91
Passports 6
Passugg 91
Payerne 20
Pfafers 84
Pfaffikon 81
Pilatus 11
Piora 104
Piz della Margna 93
Piz Languard . . 96
Piz Morteratsch . 93
Piz Nair 93
Piz Palii 93
Piz Rosatsch .... 93
Piz Ro.seg 93
Piz .Segues 91
Piz Tschierva ... 93
Planning the Tour 9
PAGE
Ponte Tresa 108
Pontresina 96
Porlezza 109
Porrenfniy 17
Poschiavo 97
Preda 92
Prangins 31
Ragaz 84
Raiida 43
Rapperswil 81
Reicheiibach .... 61
Reichenau-Tamins 91
Rheinfall 85
Rheiiifelden .... 13
Rhone Glacier . . 48
Riederalp 45
Rigi 73
Ritom 104
Rochers de Naye 34
Rodi-Fiesso 105
Rolle 33
Ronianshorn .... 86
Ronco 107
Rorschach 86
Rosenlaui 60
Rossiniere 65
Riitli 74
Saanen 65
Saas-Fee 43
Sachseln 79
Saignelegier .... 17
Sal van 38
Samaden 92
San Bernardino. . 92
San Salvatore ... 109
Sanetsch Pass ... 65
Santa Maria .... 98
Santis 88
Sarnen and Lake . 79
Scaletta Pass ... 101
Scanfs 98
Schauffhausen ... 85
Scheidegg, Kleine 56
Scheidegg, Grosse 60
Schinznach 16
Schuls 98
Schwanden 83
Schwyz 76
Schynige Platte. . 55
Season 4
Seelisberg 74
Segnes Pass .... 83
Sembrancher .... 38
Serneus 101
Sierre (Siders) . . 42
PAGE
Sils Baselgia ... 94
Sils Maria 94
Silvaplana 94
Simplon Pass ... 44
Sion 41
Sisikon 74
Soleure 16
Somvix 102
Sonceboz 18
Sonloup 65
Sorengo 109
Speicher 87
Spiez 53
Spinabad 101
Spliigen Pass . . . 105
Sports 7
Stachelberg 84
Stalden 42
Stans 74
Stanserhorn .... 73
Stein am Rhein.. 86
Stein-Sakingen . . 13
Stelvio Pass 97
Strela Pass 101
Stresa 109
St. Antonien .... 101
St. Bernard Pass 38
St. Cerque 37
Ste. Croix 20
St. Gall 86
St. (;othard 104
St. Imier 18
St. Legier 34
St. Luc 42
St. Maurice 37
St. Moritz and
Lake 93
St. Niklaus 43
St. Theodule Pass 44
Suniiswald 52
Surenen Pass .... 74
Sits 98
Susten Pass .... 76
Tarasp 98
Thsch 43
Tell's Birthplace. . 76
Tell's Chapel 74
Tenigerbad 102
Territet 34
Thalwil 81
Thun and Lake. . 52
Thusis 91
Tickets, Railroads 5
Tiefenkastel .... 91
Titlis 74
PAGE
Tirano 97
Trafoi 97
Treib 74
Trogen 87
Truns 102
Uetliberg 81
LJmbrail Pass ... 100
L'omo Pass 104
X'alendas 102
N'allorcine 38
Va] Sinestra 100
Vernayaz 3"
\ersan-Safien 102
Vevey 34
Via Mala 91
Viege (Visp) ... 42
Villars 37
Villeneuve 35
Vissoye 42
Vitznau 74
Vulpera 98
Wadejiswil 81
Waldhaus-Flims. . 91
Wallenstadt .... 84
Wassen 76
Wattwil 88
Weesen 84
Weggis 74
Weissbad 88
Weissenburg .... 63
Weissenstein .... 17
Weisshorn 43
Wengen 56
Wengernalp .... 56
Wetterhorn 60
Wiesen 101
Wildegg 16
Wildersvvil 55
Wildhaus 88
Wildstrubel 65
Winimis 63
Windisch 14
Winterthur .... 86
Vverdon 20
Zerniatt 43
Zernez 98
Ziegelbriicke .... 83
Zinal 42
Zinal Rothorn. . . 43
Zug and Lake. . . 77
Zugerberg 77
Zuoz 97
Zurich and Lake.. 79
Zweiliitschinen . . 55
Zweisinimen .... 63
HEIGHTS OF THE MAIN PEAKS
In the Valais
FEET
Monte Rosa 15,217
Doni (Mischabel) 14,940
Lyskamni 14,889
Weisshorii 14,804
Matterhorn 14,782
Dent Blanche 14,318
Grand Combin 14,164
Castor 13,879
Zinal Rothhorn 13,856
Dent d'Herens 13,715
Pollux
Breithorn
Ober Gabelhorn
AUalinhorn
Grand Cornier
Mont Blanc of Seilon.
Pigne d'Arolla
Monte Leone
Tour Salieres
Dent du Midi
In the Bernese Obcrland
Finsteraarhorn 14,026 Bliimlisalp . . . .
Gross-Aletschhorn 13,721 Wetterhorn ....
Jungfrau 13,670 Altels
Monch 13,465 Gspaltenhorn
Schreckhorn 13,386 Wildhorn
Eiger 13,042 Wildstrubel
Agassizhorn 12,980 Grand Muveran
Distelhorn 12.297 Oldenhorn
Balnihorn 12,176 Diablerets
In Central Szvitzerland
Damastock 11,920 Pizzo Rotondo .
Galenstock 11,802 Urirotstock ....
Sustenhorn 11,523 Pilatus
Titlis 10.527 Stanserhorn
Spannorter 10,506 Rigi
In Eastern Switzerland (Except the Grisons)
Todi 11,887 Piz Segnes
Oberalpstock 10,926 Glarnisch
Claridenstock 10,729 Calanda
Ringelspitz 10,667 Santis
Grosse Windgalle 10,473 Churfirsten
In the Grisons
Bernina 13,304
Piz Roseg 12,934
Piz Palii 12,835
Piz Cambrena 11,835
Piz Tschierva 11,693
Piz Corvatsch 11,339
Piz Kesch 11,228
Piz Linard 11,201
Rheinwaldhorn 11,149
Piz Julier 11,106
Piz d'Err
Piz Morteratsch
Piz Tambo . . . .
Campo Tencia .
Piz Languard . .
Silvrettahorn
Piz Vadred . . . .
Piz Medel
Tinzenhorn . . . .
Piz Pisoc
FEET
13,430
13,380
13,364
13,236
13,022
12,700
12,471
11,684
10,588
10,450
12,044
11,873
11,930
11,293
10,709
10,673
10,043
10,250
10,650
10,489
9,620
6,995
6,236
5,900
10,178
9,580
9,213
8,216
7,576
11,093
12,317
10,749
10,089
10,716
10,657
10,584
10.509
10,430
10.427
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BARNES PRESS. Inc.
NEW YORK, U. S. A.
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