*-
THE LIBRARY
OF
THE UNIVERSITY
OF CALIFORNIA
THE COOK BOOK BY "OSCAR"
OF THE WALDORF
OSCAR TSCHIRKY
\s
MAITRE D' HOTEL, THE WALDORF
CHICAGO NEW YORK
THE WERNER COMPANY
COPYRIGHT
I8g6
BY OSCAR TSCHIRKY
TX7I
T27J
AGRIC.
LIBRARY
Preface.
In placing this work before my friends at The Waldorf and the
public in general, it is with the feeling that I am giving them a book
illustrative of the best methods of preparing food at the present day.
The collection of recipes embodies many which have been rendered
easy of comprehension and arranged in such a manner as to meet the
wants of all the caterer to large dinners or receptions, as well as the
more modest entertainment furnished at the hearthside. There has been
more particular attention devoted to the requirements of the latter than
to those of the former, as, in the writer's opinion, the giver of a small
reception has been, it might be said, rather neglected in such works as
have come before the notice of the undersigned, relative to cookery.
The title selected for the book is: THE COOK BOOK BY "OSCAR"
OF THE WALDORF, and it is with great honor dedicated to the patrons
of The Waldorf, with the hope that they will receive it as a token of
my high esteem and sincere appreciation of their kindness as shown to
me at all times.
In conclusion, let me state that I enter the arena as an author
with the hope that my experience may prove entertaining to my
friends, as well as enable them to prepare a Waldorf Dinner at their
own homes.
With the hope that my friends and the public will appreciate the
work here presented to them, I am
Very respectfully,
OSCAR TSCHIRKY,
Maitre d' Hotel, The Waldorf.
M362152
A few Suggestions with Regard to the
Kitchen.
In the construction of a kitchen range that is, one that is intended for cook-
ing it is necessary to consider whether it is advisable or not to erect a stove for
each particular purpose or process, or whether a stove can be so constructed as it
will enable all processes to be carried on with it at one time, or independently. The
old-fashioned open stove, with boiler and oven attached, permitted the carrying out
of more processes at once than any other, such as roasting, baking, boiling, stewing,
frying, and, at the same time, keeping up a supply of hot water for any purpose for
which it might be required. But for the perfection of modern cooking something
further is required in the way of a hot plate, upon which the contents of saucepans
and other vessels can be kept simmering or boiling fast at the cook's discretion; and
this demand is not met with in the close-fire range. The evils of the open range
may be described as very great; the vessels used being exposed to the open fire be-
come dirty with soot, there is great loss of heat, the kitchen itself receiving more
than its fair share. Then, again, it is difficult on an open range to modify the heat
according to certain requirements, and the chimney requires sweeping frequently.
As rapidly as improvements are made in this country in stoves and ranges, there
would be some foundation for hoping that sooner or later this would be the most
expert of cooking countries, for in no other part of the world have such vast strides
been made, or have such clever inventions been placed before the public as in the United
States during the past quarter of a century. The excellence of style and perfection
of use have created for them a demand in all civilized portions of the globe. In
France, which may be considered the queen of cooking countries, American and
British stoves are preferred to all others, not only on account of their superior manu-
facture and metal, but also because they do their work best.
A very important piece of furniture is the kitchen table. There are many dresser
boards, shelves and flaps, but they are useless to the cook as compared with a good
kitchen table. It should be made of stout deal, as large as the size of the kitchen
will permit, fitted with a convenient drawer for holding knives, forks, spoons, clean
kitchen cloths, and other necessaries. Not only should the table be the most prominent
of the furniture in the kitchen, to which all other fittings must play a supplementary
part, but it should be kept at all times ready for immediate use, uncovered and scru-
pulously clean. The practice of using the table for a chopping-board, trimming-
ii SUGGESTIONS.
board, pot-board, or for making paste, cannot be too carefully avoided. In such
cases the surface soon becomes scratched and unsightly.
A well-ventilated kitchen is a pleasure to the cook and conducive to the health of
all concerned in or about it. Open windows are the best form of ventilators. When
the windows are opened, they should be pulled down from the top; but as some
kitchen windows open from pantries or entries or passages, some form of independent
ventilation should be adopted.
A very practical writer on kitchen management observes : " I would mention
the extreme importance of including among the list of household requisites a pair of
scales and a set of weights. There is no check so effectual against short weights as
the practice of weighing. With the butcher's meats this is particularly important,
joints often being unaccountably changed, from one being so like another, except in
weight. Aside from this, it is almost impossible to cook meat accurately unless it is
previously weighed and timed. A pair of scales and a set of weights, large enough
for all domestic purposes, can be bought for three or four dollars, and I have no hesi-
tation in saying that they will defray their cost in less than a year's use."
There should be no such thing as waste in a well-ordered kitchen. The term is
often misapplied to the refuse that results from the preparation of vegetables and
other things for cooking. But the term " kitchen waste " is also oftentimes more
correctly applied than intended by the cook who uses it; that is, if the legitimate
meaning is to be accepted, of anything spoiled, destroyed or thrown away. Waste is
the outcome of extravagance, hence it is advisable for those in authority carefully to
calculate the return from the foods supplied for kitchen use. Kitchen cloths are often
objects of indiscriminate use. Dresser cloths, tea cloths and dusters, pudding-cloths
and window rags are frequently misappropriated, thus leading to waste. Remnants
of food and drippings are invariably wasted by an untidy servant. Scraps of meat,
bones and shanks can be put into the stockpot, which should be found in every
kitchen. Something may be added to the stockpot daily and this prevents, by using
up, accumulations that otherwise would be troublesome and offensive. Small quan-
tities of cold vegetables potatoes, carrots, turnips, cauliflower, spinach, etc. are
used for thickening and flavoring plain soups, and cold cabbage and potatoes can be
fried for the kitchen dinner. Dripping, melted down and put into jars, keeps well,
and is very useful. The fat skimmed off cold broth is good for adding to vegetables
when mashed, and for other purposes. Strong paper and wooden skewers are handy
at any time; but it must not be forgotten that heaps of grocers' and other papers are
often the cause of cockroaches swarming in the kitchen. When there is no use at
home for so-called "kitchen waste," it should be carefully sorted, and either sold or
given away.
As it would be impossible to organize a system of keeping kitchen accounts that
would be found perfect enough to meet all purposes, something must be left to the
cook and the master, each of whom will prove his ability to deal with the subject by
SUGGESTIONS. Hi
formulating a system to meet his own requirements, based upon a few suggestions we are
able to make for general guidance. We here have to deal with accounts, and not
with losses from indiscreet marketing or bad cooking; these matters have to be treated
on their own merits.
Every cook should have an order book, with counterfoils, upon which an exact
copy of the order issued should be taken. With each parcel of goods, care should
be taken to receive an invoice, and no goods should be received without one. The
invoice should coincide with the counterfoils of the order book, and be marked with
the weight and measure and price of each article. After the weights and measures
have been corroborated by actual weighing and measuring, which is so often neglected,
and the price is ascertained to be correct, according to the markets, the invoice is
to be filed for future reference, or, where a kitchen clerk is kept, it may be entered
up fully in the invoice book kept for the purpose. This is your check upon the trades-
man, whose petty defalcations are not in all cases a fable. When once it is under-
stood that the goods are weighed and measured when received, the necessity for
it will disappear; but the system should not be relaxed, for all that. Instead of an
order form, books are sometimes used, in which the order is written and signed and
filled up with prices and quantities by the tradesmen, and returned with the goods.
This system saves much writing, but it is open to this objection, the book mjght be
lost, and then the cook would have no existing check upon the account of the trades-
man.
The cook should also keep a journal or diary that is to say, a book in which
can be jotted down at any moment circumstances worthy of note, especially such as
cash paid out or received for kitchen purposes, orders received and executed, memo-
randa for a future day, and notes of new ideas. Besides this there should be an ac-
count or cash book in which tradesmen's bills, wages and cash transactions generally
are entered; a petty cash book in which small sums under a certain amount can be
quickly entered without reference to the account book, and a slate hung up in a
convenient spot.
Cooks in large kitchens have a style of bookkeeping convenient to themselves,
as also have proprietors and managers of hotels ; but the small householder is often the
victim of the fraudulent tradesman, because the cook is not expected to keep accounts,
and the mistress is too indolent or careless to do so. If the amount of money
wasted yearly could be calculated, it is certain that the total would be astonishing.
Every good housekeeper will have a room in which stores can be kept under
lock and key. Groceries should always, if possible, be bought in quantity, and it
is well to remember that at certain times of the year, some goods are cheaper than
at others; all these details should be carefully noted, and a book kept to enter dates
of purchase, quantities and prices paid.
A dry room should be chosen for keeping stores, and this should be amply
fitted with drawers, shelves and nails or hooks. There should be earthenware jars
iv SUGGESTIONS.
for sugar, tins for tea, coffee, biscuits and loaf-sugar, and a net for lemons. Jams,
pickles, and preserves should be kept in the coolest part of the room. Soap should
be cut up and stood with spaces between the pieces, being turned at regular intervals
of time. Starch must be kept very dry. Rice, tapioca and sago must be kept in
covered vessels or insects will get into them. Flour is usually kept in the pantry in
a flour box Onions, shallots, leaks, etc., should not be kept in a storeroom for ob-
vious reasons. Dried herbs in separate bags may be conveniently suspended from
the ceiling or walls. Apples must be stored in a near-by room, etc.
Menus, or Bills of Fare.
Menus are prepared for breakfasts, luncheons, dinners and suppers, but the
dinner menu is of the greatest importance. The menus or bills of fare are generally
selected a few days in advance, in order that the necessary provisions may be pur-
chased, and that there may be ample time to prepare everything necessary, thereby
avoiding much confusion.
The menu should be strictly followed in every case. If the dinner is to include
ladies, it should be of light, fancy dishes; but, on the contrary, if intended for gentle-
men alone, it should be more substantial and at the same time shorter.
The color of the various meats and sauces should be as different from each other
as possible, from one course to another, offering all the foods in their respective sea-
sons, and have the early products of the finest quality (See Table of Supplies, Page
xv), and only use preserved articles when it is impossible to obtain others
Oysters, as a rule, are always served at the beginning of a dinner, though they are
used only in such months of the year in which the letter "r" occurs, such as January,
February, March, April, September, October, November and December, and little
neck clams are used in their stead.
After the oysters, come the soups. If two soups are to be served, select one
clear and one thick; but if one is to be used, give the preference to the clear
soup.
Hot hors d'ceuvre generally consist of timbales, croustades, palmettes, mousse-
lines, bouchees, etc. Cold side dishes are served with the same course, such as olives,
radishes, canapes, caviar, anchovies, etc.
The fish, if it is boiled or fried, should have potatoes served with it; if broiled or
cooked in any fancy manner, serve cucumber salad with it.
If two entrees are chosen in a dinner, the first entree should be made the light-
est of the two, and they should be made in a fancy way, so as to avoid any carving.
Terrapin, oysters, crabs, lobsters, shrimps and frogs are allowable as entrees, especially
during Lent.
The roasts or solid joints are composed of saddles of either veal, mutton, lamb,
venison or antelope, or beef tenderloins. Also, turkey, goose, duck, capon, etc,, may
be served, accompanied by one or two vegetables.
After the roasts and vegetables, and before the game, a punch or sherbet is
always served, but should not be given an extra heading on the menu, simply placing
them on a line by themselves.
Games are served immediately following the sherbet ; a roast usually being pre-
vi MENUS.
ferred for dinner, but poultry may be served instead, such as turkey, capon, duck,
squabs, etc.
Cold dishes are served after the game, with a salad. If no cold dishes are served
with the dinner, the salad should be served with the game.
Hot and cold sweet dishes are served after the game, and consist of puddings,
crusts, fritters, pancakes, omelets and soufflees, the cold and hot sweet dishes forming
a separate course by themselves. The cold dishes are composed usually of jellies,
bavarois, creams, blancmanges, macedoines, charlottes, etc.
After the sweet dishes, comes the dessert, consisting of cheese, fresh fruits, pre-
served fruits, jams, dried fruits, candied fruits, bonbons, mottoes, frozen puddings,
plombieres, ices, ice-cream and fancy cakes.
Coffee. Turkish or French coffee is usually served, and is the last article upon
the menu.
The Serving of Wines and Cordials:
With Oysters: (Sauterne) Chateau Rieussec, 1878.
With the Soup: (Sherry) Amontillado Passado.
With Fish: (Rhine Wine) Schloss Vollradser, 1892.
With Entrees: (Claret) Chateau Marbuzet, 1881.
With Roasts: Champagne.
Iced Punches and Sherbets.
With Game: (Burgundy) Romance Conti, 1892.
With Cold Dishes: Champagne.
With Hot and Cold Sweet Dishes: Champagne.
With Dessert or Cheese: (Port Wine) Duque, Very Old
With Coffee: Liquors.
Seasons.
Almost every kind of food has its particular season that is, a period of the
year when it is in its prime. Produced out of season they may bring higher prices,
but, however grateful they may be to the gourmet, there are few foods that do not
lose flavor by being forced. A large variety of foods are in season the year round,
but this does not apply to the majority. The following list may be found of some
use to the cook, although the best guide as to what is in season is to visit the
markets, remembering always that when foods are cheapest and most plentiful they
are most frequently prime; when expensive they are generally out of season. It may
be taken for granted then, that when dear they are scarce, or when cheap they are
plentiful, but their high price does not necessarily improve their quality.
Angel,
Bass Black, i
Sea,
Striped, .
Lake,
Blackfish,
Bluefish,
Bonito, .
Butterfish,
Carp Common,
German,
Codfish, .
Eels, . .
Flounders,
Frost Fish, .
Grouper,
Haddock,
Halibut,
Herring,
Kingfish,
Lafayette,
Lamprey,
Mackerel Fresh,
Spanish,
Mullet,
Muscallonge,
Perch,
Fish.
July 1st to September ist.
All the year.
All the year.
All the year.
June ist to January 1st.
April ist to November ist.
May ist to November ist.
June ist to November ist.
October ist to May ist.
July 1 5th to November 1st.
October ist to May ist.
All the year.
All the year.
All the year.
October i$th to April ist.
November I5th to April ist.
All the year.
All the year.
October ist to May ist.
May ist to November ist.
August 1 5th to November I5th.
April ist to June ist.
April ist to October ist.
April 1 5th to October I5th.
June ist to November ist.
June ist to January ist.
September ist to June ist.
vn
Vlll
SEASONS.
Pike Perch,
Pike or Pickerel,
Pompano,
Porgies, ,
Red Snapper,
Salmon Kennebec,
Oregon,
Salmon Trout,
Shad and Roe, .
Sheepshead,
Skate,
Smelts,
Sole, English,
Spot Fish,
Sturgeon, . :
Trout Brook,
Wild, ,
Turbot American,
English,
Weakfish,
Whitebait,
Whitefish, .
September ist to May ist.
June ist to January ist.
SMay ist to August ist, and
November I5th to January ist.
June 1 5th to October i5th.
October ist to April ist.
June ist to October ist.
October ist to June ist.
October ist to April ist.
January ist to June ist.
June 1 5th to November I5t
September ist to July ist.
August 1 5th to April I5th.
November ist to May ist.
August ist to June ist.
June ist to October I5tn.
April ist to September ist.
April ist to September ist.
January ist to July I5th.
January ist to April ist.
May 1 5th to October I 5th.
May ist to April ist.
November 1st to March ist.
Shell Fish.
Clams Hard,
Soft,
Crabs Hard,
Soft,
Crawfish,
Lobsters,
Mussels,
Oysters,
Scallops,
Shrimps,
All the year.
May ist to October I 5th.
All the year.
May ist to October I5th.
September ist to May ist.
All the year.
May ist to October ist.
September ist to May ist.
September I5th to April ist.
j March I5th to June ist, and
I September 1 5th to October 1 5th.
Miscellaneous.
Codfish Tongues,
Crabs, Oyster,
Frogs,
Milts,
Terrapin,
Turtle Green,
Prawns, .
October ist to June ist.
October ist to June ist.
All the year, but June ist to November ist.
All the year.
November ist to June ist.
All the year.
June ist to November ist.
SEASONS. ix
Salt Fish.
Anchovies, , . . . All the year.
Codfish, dried, . . . .All the year.
Herring, . . . All the year
Herring Pickled, . . . All the year.
Mackerel, . .All the year.
Prawns, . . . September 1st to April ist.
Salmon, , . . . All the year.
Smoked Fish.
Haddock Smokedor ) October Ist to A n Ist
Finnan Haddie }
Halibut Smoked, . . . October ist to April ist.
Herring Smoked, . . . All the year.
Bloaters, . . October ist to May ist.
Kippered, . . . October ist to May 1st.
Mackerel, . . , . October ist to May ist.
Salmon, ..... All the year.
Shad, . . . . October ist to May ist.
Sturgeon, .'. . . . October ist to May ist.
Whitefish, . . . . October 1st to May ist.
Poultry.
Capon. ..... December ist to August ist.
Chicken to Broil, I ^ lb., . . All the year.
Saute. 2 y Ibs. . . . All the year.
Roast, 3 Ibs., . . All the year.
Winter, 4 Ibs., . . . All the year.
Duck Mongrel, . . . September 1st to May 1st.
Tame, .... May ist to December ist.
Duckling, .... May ist to December ist.
Fowl, ..... All the year.
Geese, * . . . All the year.
Guinea Fowl, . . . . All the year
Peacock, .... All the year.
Pigeon, ..... All the year.
Pigeon, stall fed, . ,., , . All the year.
Pullet, . . . . .All the year.
Squab, . . . . All the year.
Turkey, > .. . . . All the year.
E. R. I., , . . All the year; best in September to March.
Spring, . . . All the year; best September I to Dec. I.
Suckling Pig, ... All the year.
SEASONS.
Game.
Antelope and Venison, .
Bear,
Doe Birds, . .
Doe Lark,
Doe Rail Chopper, or Sora,
Doe Reed Birds,
Doe Rice Birds,
Doe Small Birds,
Buffalo,
Duck, all kinds,
Black Head,
Ruddy Duck,
Canvas Back.
Mallard,
Red Head,
Teal, Blue Wing,
Green,
Widgeon,
Wood,
Geese Brant,
Wild,
Grouse, or Prairie Hen,
Spruce,
Hare American,
English,
Partridge,
Pheasants,
Pigeons, . f .
Plovers Grass,
Golden,
Yellow Legs, .
Ptarmigans, .
Quail, . . l$jpd
Rabbits,
Robins, .
Snipe Curlew,
English,
Jersey,
Sand,
Squabs, wild,
Squirrel, . .
Turkey, wild,
Woodcock,
August 1 5th to November I5th.
November ist to February ist.
May ist to September ist.
October ist to January ist.
September 1st.
September ist to January ist.
September ist to April 1st.
September 1st to April 1st.
November ist to February ist.
September 1st to May ist.
September 1st to May 1st.
September ist to May ist.
September ist lo May ist.
September ist to May ist.
September ist to May ist.
September 1st to May ist.
September ist to May ist.
September 1st to May ist.
September ist to May ist.
September ist to May ist.
September ist to May ist.
August i 5th to February ist.
September ist to January 1st.
November ist to January ist.
September ist to March ist.
August i 5th to February 1st.
October ist to February 1st.
j March ist to July ist, and
\ September ist to December ist.
September ist to January ist.
September ist to January ist.
September 1st to January ist.
February ist to May ist.
November ist to February ist.
November ist to January 1st.
(Law against selling.)
September ist to January ist.
September ist to January 1st.
September ist to January ist.
September ist to January ist.
September ist to January ist.
August ist to February 1st.
November ist to May ist.
August 1 5th to February ist.
SEASONS.
XI
Meat.
Beef,
Kid,
Lamb Spring,
Yearling,
Mutton,
Pig,
Veal,
All the year; best Nov. 1st to March ist.
March ist to September ist.
January ist to July ist.
All the year; best Aug. ist to Nov. ist.
All the year; best Nov. ist to April ist.
All the year; best Oct. 1st to April ist.
All the year; best Nov. ist to July ist.
Vegetables.
Artichoke,
Jerusalem, '.
Asparagus Hot House,
Outdoor,
Green,
Tips,
White,
Beans Broad,
Lima,
String, . ,
Wax and Butter,
Beets, . . ,
Brussels Sprouts,
Cabbage Green Kale,
Red,
Savoy,
% White,
Cardon, . . .
Carrots, .
Cauliflower, .
Celery Knobs Celeriac,
Soup,
Corn, . . . '
Cranberries, .
Cucumbers,
Hot House,
Small Pickles,
Egg Plant, .
Garlic Dry,
Herbs Basil,
Bay Leaves, dry,
Burnet, . -
Chervil,
Hot House.
Chives,
Hot House,
All the year. (From Europe).
October ist to May ist.
January ist to February I5th.
February I 5th to July ist.
February I 5th to July ist.
February I5th to July ist.
February I 5th to July 1st.
August ist to October I5th.
August ist to November ist.
All the year.
February ist to November I5th.
All the year; new in April.
November ist to March 1 5th.
January ist to May ist.
August 1 5th to May ist.
August i 5th to May ist.
All the year; new in February.
January 1st to March ist.
All the year; new in April.
All the year.
July 1 5th to May ist.
All the year.
June 1 5th to September 1st.
October ist to May ist.
All the year.
October 1st to July ist.
August 1 5th to October I5th.
All the year.
All the year; new in July.
August ist to November ist.
All the year.
June ist to October 1st.
All the year.
October ist to June ist.
All the year.
October ist to June 1st.
Xll
SEASONS.
Herbs Fennel,
Marjoram,
Mint,
Hot House,
Parsley,
Rosemary,
Savory,
Tarragon,
Hot House,
Thyme,
Hops,
Kohl Rabi,
Leeks,
Mushrooms Cultivated,
Field, .
Girolles, .
Morils,
Okra or Gombo,
Onions, . . .'.
Bermuda, .
Small, . ,
Oyster Plant. . ,
Parsnips, . .
Peas South, . . i '
Long Island, .
Peppers, . ,
From the South,
Potatoes, .
From South,
Long Island,
Bermuda,
Sweet, . ,
Pumpkins, . .. ',
Radishes Black,
Horse,
Red,
White or Gray, ,
Rhubarb,
Salad Monk's Beard,
Celery,
Chicory,
Fetticus, .
Dandelion,
Escarolle,
Lettuce,
Romaine,
Watercress,
Shallots,
August ist to November 1st.
August ist to November ist.
All the year.
October ist to June ist.
All the year.
August ist to November ist.
August ist to November ist.
All the year.
October ist to June ist.
August ist to November ist.
May i 5th to June I5th.
July ist to December 1st.
All the year.
All the year.
j April ist to July ist, and from
| September ist to December ist.
September ist to November I5th.
September 1st to November I5th.
{All the year from South; December
ist to July ist.
All the year.
January I 5th to July 1 5th.
July ist to June ist.
August ist to June ist.
August ist to June ist.
January ist to July ist.
July ist to November ist.
All the year.
January ist to June ist.
All the year.
April.
July ist to August 1 5th.
January I5th to July ist.
August ist to May 1st.
September ist to February 1 5th.
April ist to January ist.
All the year,
All the year.
April 1 5th to November i5th.
February ist to July ist.
December ist to April ist.
August ist to April ist.
July ist to April ist.
February ist to May ist.
December ist to June ist.
August ist to April ist.
All the year.
May ist to December ist.
All the year.
All the year; new in July.
SEASONS.
xni
Sorrel,
Hot House,
Spinach,
Squash Summer White,
Yellow,
Winter Hubbard,
Marron,
Tomatoes, . .
From South,
Hot House, .
Turnip -Rutabaga,
Teltow, . .
White,
All the year.
November 1st to June ist.
All the year.
July ist to October I 5th.
July ist to October I5th.
September ist to March I5th.
September ist to March I5th.
All the year.
March 1st to August 1st.
November ist to March ist.
June ist to May ist.
October ist to January ist.
All the year; new in June, July, August,
and September.
Fruit.
Alligator Pears,
Apples, . ' .
Apricots, . .
Bananas, -'' .'-
Barberries,
Blackberries,
Cherries,
Chestnuts,
Cocoanuts, ,
Currants (Black and Red),
Figs,
Ginger,
Gooseberries,
Grapes Brighton,
Concord,
Delaware,
Hauteford,
Hot House,
Ives,
lona,
Malaga,
Muscatel,
Niagara, .
Pokington,
Rebecca,
Tokay,
Grape Fruit, or Shaddock,
Green Gages,
Huckleberries,
Lemons,
Limes, . r'
July ist to October ist.
All the year.
July 1 5th to August I5th.
All the year.
October ist to November I i;th
July ist to August 1 5th.
May ist to July I5th.
November ist to March ist.
All the year.
July ist to August 1 5th.
October I5th.
July 1 5th to January ist.
July ist.
July ist to December ist.
July 1 5th to November 1 5th.
July ist to October I5th.
July ist to December ist.
February ist to December I5th
July ist to December ist.
July ist to December ist.
September ist to April ist.
July ist to December ist.
July ist to December ist.
July ist to December ist.
July 1 5th to November I5th.
July 1 5th to December ist.
October ist to July ist.
August ist to September I5th.
June 1 5th to September ist.
All the year.
All the year.
xiv SEASONS.
Mangoes, .... July 1st to October 1st.
Melon Canteloup, . . . July 1 5th to October 1 5th,
Musk, . . . July 1 5th to October 1 5th.
Spanish, .... November ist.
Water, . . . July ist to October ist.
Nectarines, .... July ist to September ist.
Oranges Florida, . . . November 1st to March ist.
Mandarines, . . . December 1st to March ist.
Spanish, . . . All the year.
Peaches, . . . <i July ist to October 1 5th.
Hot House, . . . May 1st to July 1st.
Pears, . . . . . July I5th to March ist.
Pineapples, .... All the year.
Plums, . . . . . July ist to October 1st.
Persimmons, . . . October ist to November I5th.
Pomegranates, .... December 1st to February ist.
Quinces, .... September 1st to December 1st
Raspberries, . June ist to September ist.
Strawberries, . . March ist to July ist.
Hot House, . . . January ist to March ist.
Tamarinds, . . . ;. . July 1st to October 1st.
Tangerines, .... November 1st to February ist.
Wintergrecn, . . . July ist to January ist.
Market List.
ON HAND.
Beef.
Snort Loin,
Hips,
Shoulders, .
Top Ends,
Chucks,
Ribs,
Butts, ....
Fresh Rump, . ,
Fresh Briskets, . .
Shins, . . .
Kidneys, . .,_.,.
Tongues,
Tails, ....
Marrow Bones,
Ox Palates,
Tenderloin,
Livers,
Suet,
Smoked Beef.
Corned Beef Rump,
Corned Beef Plate, .
Corned Beef Brisket, .
Spiced Corned Beef,
Smoked Beef Tongues,
Salted Beef Tongues,
WANTED.
XV!
ON HAND.
MARKET LIST.
Veal.
Side, .
Backs, \
Hind Quarter,
Legs,
Shoulder,
Breast, . . . /
Loins,
Knuckles,
Head,
Liver, ,
Feet
Kidneys
Brains,
Sweetbreads for broiling,
Sweetbreads for Croquettes,
Palates.
WANTED.
Mutton.
Backs,
Saddle (English Cut)
Saddle, Hind,
Legs, . / ? ,
Shoulder,
Breast,
Kidneys, .'.;.
Sheep's Trotters,
Necks,
Suet.
ON HAND.
MARKET LIST.
Lamb.
Lamb,
Backs,
Legs,
Saddle,
Breast,
Shoulder,
Feet, . . .
Fries, . .
Kidneys, .
Spring Lamb, whole,
Backs, Spring Lamb,
Legs, Spring Lamb,
Saddle, Spring Lamb,
Breast, Spring Lamb, .
Shoulder, Spring Lamb,
Provisions.
Smoked Hams,
Fresh Hams, .
Virginia Hams,
Westphalia,
Corned, , ;
Bacon No. i, .
Bacon No. 2, : .,. r
Fresh Loin of Pork,
Country Loin of Pork, .
Pork Tenderloin,
Larding Pork,
Salt Pork,
Pickled Lamb Tongues,
xvu
WANTED.
XV111
ON HAND.
MARKET LIST.
PROVISIONS Continued.
Country Sausage,
Deerfoot Sausage,
Helps Sausage, . . .
Blood pudding,
Audinillette,
Sausage Meat,
Lyons Sausage, . ...
Bologna,
Smoked Shoulders,
Fresh Shoulders, . .
Honeycombed Tripe, .
Tripe No. 2,
Pigs' Feet Pickled,
Pigs' Feet Parboiled,
Pigs' Jowls,
Suckling Pigs,
Crepinette, r ,.. ; .
Head Chucks,
Snails, .
Goose Breasts (smoked) .
Lard. ....
Poultry,
Roasting Chicken, ' .
Broiling Chicken, large, .
Broiling Chicken, small,
Squab Chicken,
Capon, . . ! " '.'
Fowl, ....
Roasting Turkey No. i,
Roasting Turkey No. 2, .
WANTED
ON HAND.
MARKET LIST.
POULTRY Continued.
Broiling spring, .
Boiling, ....
Boston geese,
Mongol geese,
Ducks,
Spring Ducklings,
Spring Ducklings, celery fed,
Pigeons, . ... , .
Squabs, . ; .. [ - .; ,
Guinea Hens, . '-' *. "i :
Game.
Canvasback Ducks,
Red Head, j r-- tgi' 1 ] . .
Mallard, . . . .
Blackhead, . ^ , ,- '
Wood, r . .', ..- .
Brandt, . . ;* "-
Widgeons, . . . ..
Ruddy, . ..' .
Teal, .
Partridges, American, .
Partridges, English, .
Chicken grouse, . , :
Grouse, . . .
Woodcocks, .
Ptarmigan, .
English Snipe,
Yellow Leg Snipe,
Sand Snipe,
Plover, . .
xix
WANTED.
XX
ON HAND.
MARKET LIST.
GAME Continued.
Plover, Golden, ,
Quail, . .
Doe Birds, . .
Rail Birds, .
Reed Birds,
Wild Turkeys,
English Pheasant,
Rabbits,
Venison Leg, .
Venison Saddle, .
Venison Hind Quarter,
Bear, ....
Fish Fresh.
Angelfish
Bass, Black,
Bass, Sea,
Bass Striped,
Blackfish,
Bluefish,
Butterfish,
Carp, .
Codfish, live, . . .
Codfish steak,
Codfish tongues,
Eels, ....
Frogs' Legs, .
Frostfish,
Haddock, . . .
Halibut, .
Halibut chicken,
WANTED
ON HAND.
MARKET LIST.
FISH Continued.
Herrings,
Kingfish, .'."
Mackerel Spanish,
Mackerel Fresh,
Muscallonge, .
Perch '\
Pickerel, ....
Pike '.
Pompano, . , .
Porgies, . . . ..,. ...
Red Snapper, . .
Salmon, . . .
Shad, . . ' ''.' .
Shad Roe, . . . -.
Sheepshead,
Skatefish, * . .
Smelts,
Trout, Brook, .
Trout, Canadian, .
Trout, Salmon, . . ;
Turbot, . .
Weakfish, . . . .
Whitefish,
Whitebait, .
Smoked and Salted
Fish.
Smoked Herring,
Smoked Finnan Haddie,
Smoked Salmon,
Smoked Whitefish,
Salted Mackerel,
Dry Codfish,
xxi
WANTED.
XX11
ON HAND.
MARKET LIST.
Shellfish, Etc.
Crayfish,
Crabs, Hard,
Crabs, Oyster,
Crabs, Soft, . . .
Crabs, Meat, . : .
Lobsters, . . .
Prawn, . . . . ;
Scallops,
Shrimp, .
Terrapin Counts, .
Terrapin Shorts,
Turtle, . . . ':>
Oysters, Clams, Etc.
Bluepoints,
Rockaway, .
Shinnecocks, .
Lynnhaven, .
Shrewsburys, .
Cape Cods, ....
Box Oysters, . . , .
Clams, Little Necks,
Clamsf Chowder,
Clams, Medium, .
Clams, Large, . . '
Clams, Soft, . i .' *
WANTED.
Soups.
Kettner writes about Soup: "There has been a good deal of needless contro-
versy about Soup, some people finding in it a dinner in itself, and some refusing it
as a weak wash, fit only for babies and invalids. Grimod de la Reyniere said that
Soup is to a dinner what a portico is to a palace, or an overture is to an opera. It is
not only the commencement of the feast, but should give an idea of what is to
follow." Another epicure, no less than Marquis de Cussy, dubs Soup a sort of
preface to the dinner, and expresses his opinion that a good work can do without a
preface. Undoubtedly the majority of opinions would be against the Marquis, for
with the Soup not only does the feast begin, but the stomach receives a little encour-
aging stimulation which prepares it for the more elaborate task about to follow.
Admitting this, however, Kettner, continues, " It is quite true, however, that to serve
a purpose (stomach stimulating), we do not require much weight of matter, and the
plain rule to follow is: for a great dinner the Soups should be as light as possible,
just enough to give a fillip; for a little dinner, with only one or two dishes, they may
be as rich and satisfying as you please. De Cussy is quite in accord here with
Thomas Walker, who maintained that if he gave turtle Soup to his guests they would
want but little else 'whitebait and a grouse.' '
Soup should always be sent to the table in a metal or earthenware tureen, tightly
covered. A metal ladle is best for serving and it should be separate from the tureen.
Tureens with holes cut in the lids for the ladle handle, let out the heat and steam.
The following directions may be of value to the soup maker:
Bring the cold water in the stockpot with the meat and bones to the boil slowly,
and let it simmer for hours, never boiling, and never ceasing to simmer. Skim off
every bit of scum and fat, for which purpose it is as well to .use a stockpot with a
faucet at the bottom. Beware of using too much salt ; a little is advisable, as it
causes the scum to rise, but as the liquid boils down, the proportion of salt is
increased in consequence, because the water flies off in steam, but the salt remains.
Soft water is the best for making Soup.
Beef Tea.
Procure some lean rump of beef, remove every particle of fat, cut into small
pieces and place in a champagne bottle, cork and tie down tightly. Place the bottle
in a deep saucepan of cold water, reaching two-thirds of the way to the top of the
bottle, place the pan on a slow fire, and allow it to come slowly to a boil. After
boiling for fifteen minutes, take out the bottle, pour out the liquor, and use as
required.
io SOUPS.
Beef Jelly.
Prepare some beef tea with very little if any salt, and without adding water.
Place an eighth of an ounce of gelatine in a saucepan with a little cold water and
soak it; let it stay there until sufficiently swollen, then place on the fire and boil
until dissolved. Take the beef-tea extract when nearly cold, add the gelatine, stir
well and allow it to become well set.
Bisque of Clams.
Place a good knuckle of veal, weighing about a pound and a half, into a soup
kettle, with a quart of water, one small onion, a sprig of parsley, a bay leaf, and the
liquor drained from the clams, and simmer gradually for an hour and a half, skim-
ming from time to time. Then strain the soup and again place it in the kettle; rub
a couple of tablespoonfuls of butter with an equal amount of flour together and add
it to the soup when it is boiling, stirring the while until again boiling. Chop up
twenty-five clams very fine and place them in the soup, season, and boil for about
five minutes, then add a pint of milk or cream, and remove from the fire immediately,
and serve.
Bisque of Crabs.
Place a dozen live crabs in some cold water with a little salt, and let them soak
there for one hour, then hash up a couple of ounces of carrot with an equal quantity
of onion, and fry them together with a little butter in a saucepan large enough to
hold the crabs, add a little parsley in sprigs, thyme and bay leaf, seasoning with salt,
a quarter of a bottle of white wine and a little white stock, then cover with the lid
and cook for fifteen minutes, after which remove the crabs, strain the broth, and place
it one side for twenty minutes, when the top should be poured off. Next, remove
the shells from the crabs, taking out the lungs from both sides, and wash each one
at a time in some slightly warmed water, removing the small legs, then drain them
and pound to a paste, with about half their quantity of cooked rice, add a little of the
juice in which they have been cooked, drain first through a sieve and then through a
tammy-cloth, and mix in half a pint of bechamel sauce. Add a little salt and red
pepper, and place over the fire just previous to serving, but do not allow it to come
to a boil, adding an eighth of a pound of fine butter, and mix with a spoon until
entirely melted, and serve with bread crusts fried in butter.
Bisque of Crayfish.
Procure five or six dozen fresh water crayfish, and boil them without any vinegar
in the water. Select two dozen and a half of the finest tails that remain whole, and
pound the rest with all the fleshy parts and meat in a mortar, with the flesh from the
breasts of two roasted chickens or fowls. Boil the crumb of a couple of French rolls
SOUPS. ii
in some rich broth ; place this in a mortar with a few yolks of hard boiled eggs, and
pound well together, then mix thoroughly with the crayfish and chicken ; put the
shells of the fish to boil in a little water or broth, and rub through a fine sieve. Boil
a pint and a half of cream, stirring continually so that no scum will arise ; pour this
into the soup, seasoning with salt and pepper. Have in readiness two spawn of a
lobster well pounded, dilute it with some of the ,broth, and mix in with the soup,
which must be kept hot but without boiling. Soak a few rounds of bread and lay
them at the bottom of a tureen, pour the bisque over them, place the tails which
have been placed one side, over the soup, and serve very hot.
Bisque of Lobster.
Remove the meat of a lobster from the shell, and cut the tender pieces into
quarter inch dice ; put the ends of the claw-meat and any tough portions in a sauce-
pan with the bones of the body and a little cold water, and boil for twenty minutes,
adding a little water from time to time as may be necessary. Put the coral to dry in
a moderate oven, and mix a little flour with some cold milk, and stir into the milk,
which should be boiling, stirring over the fire for ten minutes ; then strain the water
from the bones and other parts, mix it with the milk, add a little butter, salt, pepper
and cayenne to taste, and rub the dry coral through a fine hair sieve, putting enough
into the soup to make it a bright pink color. Place the green fat and lobster dice in
a soup tureen, strain the boiling soup over them and serve at once.
Bisque of Oysters.
Place about thirty medium sized oysters in a saucepan together with their own
juice, and poach them over a hot fire, after which drain them well. Then fry a
shallot colorless in some butter together with an onion, sprinkle over them a little
curry and add some of the oyster juice, seasoning with salt and red pepper ; pound
the oysters to a good firm paste, moistening them with a little of their juice, and
strain through a fine tammy-cloth ; warm them over the fire, but do not let them boil;
add a small quantity of thickening of potato flour mixed with a little water, (about a
tablespoonful for each quart of the mixture), and when about to serve, incorporate
some cream and fine butter, garnishing with some chopped oysters and mushrooms,
mixed with bread crumbs and herbs ; add a little seasoning of salt, pepper and nut-
meg, some raw egg yolks and roll this mixture into ball-shaped pieces, place them on
a well buttered baking sheet in a slack oven and poach them, then serve.
Tomato Bisque.
Stew half a can of tomatoes until they become quite soft and will strain readily,
then boil a quart of milk in a double boiler. Cook together a tablespoonful of corn-
starch and an equal quantity of butter in a small saucepan, adding enough hot milk
12 SOUPS.
to make it pour readily, then stir it carefully into the boiling milk, and let it boil for
about ten minutes ; then add a third of a cup of butter in small lumps, and stir it
until it has become well incorporated, add some salt and pepper and the strained
tomatoes, and if the tomatoes are very acid, half a saltspoonful of soda may be
added. Serve while hot.
Broth.
Barley
Put a trimmed sheep's head or two pounds of fleshy shin of beef into half a
gallon of water, adding a teacupful of well- washed and strained barley (Pearl), two
sliced onions and a few sprigs of parsley, together with half a dozen peeled and
sliced potatoes and a little thyme ; season with pepper and salt, and simmer for
three or four hours, stirring frequently to prevent the meat and vegetables settling at
the bottom and burning. Serve very hot.
Beef Broth with Vermicelli.
Cut some lean beef into small squares and chop it, put in a stew pan, with an
egg broken and poured over ; skim the fat off of two quarts of cold bouillon, and
pour it over the whole, add a piece of leek, a piece of celery, and a little minced
carrot, stirring occasionally. When it bubbles, move it to one side, and simmer
gently for fifteen or twenty minutes. Drain into a good-sized bowl through a wet
cloth, and skim off all the fat, and put it on to boil for five minutes longer, then add
a few ounces of blanched vermicelli. Serve with toast, in a tureen.
Chicken Broth.
Chop a chicken into pieces and put them into an earthenware pot with two table-
spoonfuls of pearl barley, one tea spoonful of coriander seed, pour in two quarts of
water and boil for three hours, skimming frequently ; then add a handful or so of
lettuce leaves, cover over the pot, remove it from the fire, let it stand for twenty
minutes, strain through a cloth or fine sieve, and serve.
Clam-Juice Broth.
After washing the clams in their shells in cold water, place them on a stove in a
very thick saucepan, and as they become hot, their shells will open ; then carefully
pour out the broth, strain it through a closely woven cloth, season to suit the taste,
and serve.
Jelly Broth, Palestine Style.
Make one quart of jelly broth, strain, and keep it hot by the side of the fire.
With a vegetable scoop, cut some balls from Jerusalem artichokes, blanch them and
put them in a saucepan with a little broth, and boil until they are tender, and the
broth is reduced to a glaze. Boil one teacupful of well-washed rice in broth till soft.
SOUPS. 13
place the artichokes and rice into a soup tureen, mix one-half teaspoonful of sugar
with the broth, pour it over the vegetables, and serve with croutons of fried bread,
or sippets of toast.
Jelly Broth with Macaroni.
Boil in salted water six or eight ounces of macaroni ; when tender, drain, and cut
it across into pieces about one and one-half inch in length. Have ready some boil-
ing jelly broth and put it in the macaroni. In about ten minutes time turn the broth
into a soup tureen, and serve with a plateful of grated Parmesan cheese.
Mutton Broth.
Wash two pounds of the scrag end of a neck of mutton, wipe it with a cloth,
cut off the fat and skin, scrape the meat from the bones and chop it into
small squares. Put the meat in a saucepan with three pints of water and
the bones in another pan with one pint of water. Place the pan containing the
bones by the side of the fire and let it simmer until wanted. Set the pan with the
meat over a quick fire, boil it, skimming frequently, and when the scum comes up
quite white put in one pint of pearl barley and skim again. Cut a carrot, a turnip
and an equal quantity of celery into small pieces and fry them in one tablespoonful
of butter for five minutes, add them to the meat and cook slowly for about four hours.
Put one tablespoonful each of flour and butter into a saucepan over the fire, and when
the flour is smooth add the strained broth from the bones, and pour it into the meat
broth. Add one tablespoonful of finely chopped parsley, two of salt, and one salt-
spoonful of pepper. Simmer gently for ten minutes longer and serve without strain-
ing. In most cases the meat is preferred strained from the broth, but if the skin and
fat are removed the strong and disagreeable flavor will be prevented. A larger
quantity of vegetables may be used if desired, or rice may be used instead of barley,
or the meat may be cut into dice and fried a few minutes in butter. If the carrots
are grated they will give the broth a fine color.
Plain Broth.
Place the desired amount of beef into a stockpot, with a knuckle of veal and half
a fowl, covering with plenty of water. Boil this slowly, letting the scum come to the
surface and removing same until it has become quite clear; then while still boiling
put in a head of celery, three or four small carrots, three leeks, three turnips and a
couple of onions, stick into one of the onions a few cloves, say four or five; move the
stockpot to one side and simmer for several hours; skim off all the fat, put in a lump
of salt and it is ready for serving.
Tapioca Broth.
Place a chicken and a knuckle of veal in a saucepan or double boiler, with a few
vegetables previously cooked in white broth, and pour over one gallon of cold water,
I 4 SOUPS.
set the saucepan on the fire and boil gently until the meat is done. Strain the broth
through a cloth into another saucepan, remove the fat, and boil up once more; then
add as much tapioca as may be required, letting it fall into the soup like rain.
Remove the saucepan to the side of the fire, and cook gently for twenty minutes or
so. If desired it can be thickened with yolks of eggs. Turn the soup into the
tureen, and serve it very hot.
Broth Thickened with Eggs.
Take enough good game or fowl consomme, and to each half pint add the yolk
of one egg, and beat in and thicken it with a little flour.
Veal Broth.
Place four or five pounds of knuckle of veal in a saucepan with three quarts of
water, two blades of mace, one onion, a little parsley, and a head of celery cut into
pieces, seasoning with salt and pepper. When boiling, move the saucepan a trifle to
the side, and keep the water simmering until it is reduced one-third. Strain the
broth, stir in with it a little well boiled rice or vermicelli, and serve.
Vegetable Broth.
Boil two sliced potatoes, a carrot, turnip and onion for an hour in a quart of
water, taking care to keep the full amount of water in, by adding a little now and
then, as required ; flavor with salt and sweet herbs and strain. Add a little mush-
room catsup and serve.
Catfish Chowder.
Wash the fish in warm water, then place it on the fire in just enough water to
cover it, and boil until tender, or until the bones will slip out. Take out the largest
bones, chop up the fish, put it into a stewpan with about a pint of water, a large piece
of butter, one breakfast cupful of cream, a small quantity of pepper and salt, one
small onion, one teaspoonful of mustard, and one-half teacupful of walnut catsup,
and stew the mixture until quite thick. Garnish with sliced lemons, and serve hot.
Clam Chowder.
Fry six slices of crisp, fat pork, after which chop them to pieces, and sprinkle
them in the bottom of a pot ; lay over a layer of clams, adding a little cayenne
or black pepper and salt, and sprinkle on a few small lumps of butter, then place a
layer of chopped onions, and another of small crackers, split and moistened with
some warm milk. Over this preparation pour a little of the fat left in the pan in
which the pork has been fried ; then repeat the layers of pork, clams, and onions,
until the pot is filled, or nearly so, then cover with water and stew slowly, keeping
SOUPS. 15
the pot closely covered the while, for three-quarters of an hour, then drain off all the
liquor that will come off readily, turn the chowder into a tureen, and return the
gravy to the pot. Thicken the gravy with some flour or pounded crackers, add a
glass of wine, some catsup and a little spiced sauce, let it boil up and pour it over the
contents in the tureen. Either walnut or butternut pickles may be served with it.
Corn Chowder.
Scrape about one quart of raw sweet Indian corn from the cob, and place it in a
saucepan with enough water to cover, boiling it for twenty minutes. Skim out the
corn as it floats on the top ; pare some potatoes, so that when cut into slices they will
fill a pint measure, soak and put them into hot water to scald. Fry an onion to-
gether with a piece of salt pork of about two inches cube, and strain the fat into a
saucepan with the corn water. Put in the potatoes, corn, one teaspoonful of salt, one
of pepper, place the pan on the fire and let the liquor simmer for a quarter of an
hour or until the corn and potatoes are tender. Put in one tablespoonful of butter
one pint of potatoes, one pint of milk, and boil up again. It must be served hot with
crisp crackers.
Consomme Stock.
Cut finely a shin of beef, put it in a stockpot with two scraped carrots, two
peeled onions, three washed leeks, a few sticks of celery, and a small bunch of par-
sley roots, all finely minced ; add six cloves, one teaspoonful of peppercorns, a bay
leaf, and the whites and shells of six eggs. Moisten this with two gallons of broth
and one quart of water, stir for a few minutes, place on the range, add a few pieces of
chicken or bones if handy. Simmer for four hours, skim off the grease and strain
through a wet cloth.
Chicken Consomme.
Remove the fillets from two chickens and put the carcases with six pounds of
fillet of veal into a stockpot with five quarts of good stock, season with half an
ounce of salt, place the pot on the fire and boil ; skim it well, add two onions stuck
with two cloves each, a head of celery and four leeks. Let the pot simmer on the
side of the fire for about three hours, skim off the fat, strain the broth and clarify
with the fillets of chicken previously removed ; then strain once more through a cloth
into a basin. This consomme should be colorless.
Duchess Consomme.
Butter a baking sheet, cover with four ounces of chou-paste, cook in the oven
for six minutes, then cover the paste with forcemeat in small lumps laid at a little
distance apart. Cut the paste into twelve equal sized pieces, each piece holding a
lump of the forcemeat, pour one quart of boiling consomme over and serve.
16 SOUPS.
Fish Consomme.
Put into a two gallon stewpan three quarters of a pound of butter, four sliced
onions, three heads of celery cut up small, five carrots cut in slices, four unpicked
shallots, two bay leaves, one sprig of thyme, three cloves, one clove of unpicked
garlic and twelve sprigs of parsley, and fry to a reddish brown color. When they are
well done, pour in five quarts of water and one bottle Chablis or Sauterne. Put the
stewpan on the fire and boil, skim and add a little mignonette pepper, an ounce and
a half of salt, six pounds of any kind of fish cut in pieces, and the heads and bones
of six large whiting, cod or eels, but keeping their fillets to clarify. Place the pan
on the side of the fire, simmer for two hours, then strain the contents through a nap-
kin. Pound the fillets with the whites of two eggs, stir them in the liquor, replace
the pan on the fire, and boil for a few minutes longer. After straining again it is
ready to serve.
Consomme Printanier.
Cut two carrots and one turnip into shapes with a vegetable scoop, simmer for
twenty minutes in salted water, drain and throw into one quart of consomme, with two
tablespoonfuls of cooked French beans, cut into small pieces. Add a handful of
chiffonade, cook five minutes more and serve.
Royal
Consomme.
Beat two eggs and mix with them half a teacupful of milk and one pinch of
salt. Pour the beaten eggs and milk in a basin, stand the basin in a larger one con-
taining hot water, put them in the oven and bake until the contents of the small
basin are firm, then take the basins out and put the small one away to cool; when set
cut the mixture into small well shaped pieces, and pour over them one quart of
boiling consomme, and serve.
Consomme with Green Peas.
Cut into pieces half a breast of a cooked chicken, put in a tureen, add two table-
spoonfuls of boiled rice, two tablespoonfuls of cooked green peas, and one truffle cut
into dice. Pour one quart of boiling consomme over all.
Consomme with Pearl Barley.
Wash three tablespoonfuls of pearl barley, put in a saucepan with three pints of
consomme, and let boil for forty minutes. Add two tablespoonfuls of cooked breast
of chicken cut in dice, two tablespoonfuls of cooked green peas, and serve in a hot
tureen.
SOUPS. 17
Consomme with Quenelles.
Prepare some small quenelles in a buttered stew pan, pour salted water over
them, and poach for two minutes. Drain on a sieve, put in a tureen with one quart
of boiling consomme over them, and serve.
Consomme with Rice and Cream.
Remove the fat from half a gallon of consomme, put in a stewpan and when at
the point of boiling add four tablespoonfuls of ground rice, previously moistened
with a little stock. Boil for ten minutes, and add one teaspoonful each of sugar and
salt, boil again and when the rice is quite done, pour in half a pint of boiling cream.
Barley Cream Soup.
Mix in a saucepan in the following proportions : Some barley (one teacupful)
an onion, a small piece of cinnamon, half a blade of mace, and three pints of chicken
broth. When it comes to a boiling point, remove to one side of the fire, and let it
simmer slowly for five hours. Then pass it through a fine hair sieve, returning it to
the saucepan. Mix with it two tablespoonfuls of butter and half a pint of boiling
milk, or if cream is used in place of milk, the butter may be omitted ; season to taste
with pepper and salt. Beat the yolks of four eggs in a teacupful of milk ; mix this
in the soup, and stir by the side of a fire for a few minutes, but do not allow it to boil
after the eggs are added. Turn the soup into a tureen and serve with a plate of
sippets of roast or croutons of fried bread.
Cauliflower Cream Soup.
The clear, white broth which has had an old fowl boiled tender in it is the best
for such soup as this, and any pieces of bones from the breakfast or dinner meats may
be put into the stockpot with it to make it richer. Take about a quart of stock, a
pint of good rich milk, one pint of cauliflower sprays, one tablespoonful each of
butter, salt and white pepper, one tablespoonful of minced parsley, half a blade of
mace and a small quantity of any vegetables at hand cauliflower being the prin-
cipal one. If cooked for the purpose, pick the cauliflower into little branches, and
boil it separately for half an hour in salted water. Strain off one quart of the stock,
clear and free from grease, into a saucepan, and boil it with one tablespoonful of
minced onion ; then mash one breakfast cupful of cooked cauliflower and throw it in ;
boil one pint of rich milk and add that ; season with a little salt and white pepper,
if not sufficiently blended, thicken, till it looks like a thin cream, with flour and
water ; then add one tablespoonful of butter, and the other breakfast cupful of
cooked cauliflower branches, and sprinkle on a tablespoonful of minced parsley. It
is then ready to be served.
i8 SOUPS.
Cream of Celery.
Boil a trimmed head of celery in one pint of water for thirty or forty minutes;
boil a piece of mace and a large slice of onion in one pint of milk; mix one table-
spoonful of flour with two tablespoonfuls of cold milk, add this to the boiling milk,
and cook for ten minutes. Mash celery in the water in which it has been cooked,
mix it into the boiling milk, add one tablespoonful of butter and season with pepper
and salt to taste. Strain and serve immediately. The flavor may be improved by
adding one teacupful of whipped cream when the soup is in the tureen.
Cream of Game.
Take about two pounds of any boiled game, remove the skin and chop, pound it
to a paste in a mortar and then put it in a stewpan with one breakfast cupful of well
washed rice, a bunch of sweet herbs> a dozen pepper corns, three or four cloves, a
dessertspoonful of salt and three pints of broth. Boil for half an hour, and then strain
through a fine hair sieve and mix one teacupful of cream with it. Serve in a tureen
with about two tablespoonfuls of cooked game cut into small pieces.
Cream of Lentils.
Soak one pint of lentils in cold water for four hours, then place them in a sauce-
pan and boil with two quarts of water, one carrot, one onion, two ounces of salt pork,
six whole peppers, a garnished bunch of parsley, one-half tablespoonful of salt and
bones of one partridge. Cook for forty-five minutes, and then rub through a sieve;
cut half the breast of a partridge in slices, place them in the soup tureen with one
ounce of butter, pour over the puree, and serve with a handful of fried sippets of
bread, suppressing the parsley.
Cream of Lettuce.
Wash well three good-sized heads of lettuce, drain, chop, place them in a sauce-
pan with about one-fourth pound of butter and cook for five minutes, stirring
lightly. Moisten with two quarts of broth, and season with one tablespoonful of
salt, one teaspoonful of pepper, and one-half teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, add a
garnished bunch of parsley and four or five ounces of well cleaned raw rice ; cover
the saucepan and cook for forty-five minutes ; then remove the parsley, and strain
through a fine sieve. Clean the saucepan well, pour the soup into it again, and let
it come nearly to the boil, stirring "meanwhile with a spatula. Pour in one pint of
sweet cream, stir it a little more, and turn it into a hot tureen. Serve with sippets of
toast or croutons of fried bread.
SOUPS. 19
Cream of Lima Beans.
Put a lump of butter in a saucepan with half a pint of mirepoix, a little flour and
the Lima beans, seasoned with salt. Moisten them with some white broth, and cook
for thirty minutes. Strain them through a sieve, and serve with some cream and
small croutons souffles.
Cream of Mushrooms.
Wash and peel one quart of fresh mushrooms, put them into a quart of boiling
water, and boil until tender enough to rub through a sieve ; stir them in two quarts of
cream soup, as follows : take two tablespoonfuls each of butter and flour, and mix
until they bubble, then stir in one quart of hot milk and boiling water, a teacupful at
a time. When all the water and milk have been used season with salt and pepper.
Potato Cream Soup.
Boil some veal bones in three quarts of water until it is reduced to two quarts,
first placing in with the veal bones, a knuckle of ham or a slice of pickled pork and a
bunch of vegetables. Then chop an onion very fine and put it in the soup ; peel and
boil two large potatoes, and when thoroughly cooked, drain and mash them, mixing
in a little at a time, a breakfast cupful of cream or milk. Mix in the potato cream
with the soup, and strain it through a colander into a soup tureen, seasoning it with
salt, pepper and a tablespoonful of finely-chopped parsley and serve.
Cream of Rice.
Cut about one and one-half pounds of loin of veal into small pieces, put them
into a stewpan with two quarts of milk, and nearly a breakfast cupful of well-washed
rice ; add a small onion, and season to taste with pepper and salt. Let the whole
simmer at the side of the fire until the meat is very tender and the rice reduced to a
pulp. Strain the soup through a fine hair sieve, then return it to the saucepan ; when
boiling, move it to the side of the fire and stir in the yolks of two eggs that have
been beaten up with the juice of a lemon and strained. Turn the soup into a tureen
and serve it while very hot, accompanied, if desired, with a plate of sippets of toast
or small croutons of bread that have been fried to a delicate brown in butter.
Cream of Sorrel.
Steam three or four handfuls of well-washed sorrel with one ounce of butter.
After cooking for ten minutes, rub through a sieve into a saucepan, add one pint of
bechamel sauce, and one quart of white broth, season with one-half tablespoonful of
salt, and one teaspoonful of pepper, and let it boil for, fifteen minutes. Thicken the
soup with one teacupful of cream and the yolks of two raw eggs well-beaten together
and serve with slices of bread or toast.
20 SOUPS.
Cream of Tapioca.
Put a large slice of ham into a saucepan with one-fourth pound of butter, dust
in one breakfastcupful of flour, and let the whole simmer for a few minutes; then
pour in a little thick soup and stir it until the liquor is quite thick. Pour three quarts
each of milk and good rich stock into a saucepan, strain the thickening into it, and
add a blade of mace, one breakfast cupful of finely chopped onion, half that quantity
each of carrots and turnips, also finely chopped, and finally a trifle more than one
teacupful of tapioca. Boil very gently until the grains of tapioca are quite trans-
parent, add one teaspoonful of minced parsley, salt and pepper to taste, pour the
soup into a tureen, and serve.
Tomato Cream Soup.
Peel and slice one quart of fresh, ripe tomatoes, pick carefully over one-half
breakfast cupful of rice, and wash it well in cold water; rub two tablespoonfuls of
butter to a smooth paste with one tablespoonful of flour; put the tomatoes over the
fire in a soup kettle, with one quart of cold water, and let them heat gradually.
When they are thoroughly heated add one more quart of cold water, and when this
boils, put in the rice, one saltspoonful of pepper, and two teaspoonfuls of salt, and
continue the boiling until the rice is tender, but not broken; then stir in the paste of
flour and butter, one saltspoonful of bicarbonate of soda, and one pint of milk, or
sufficient to make the soup as thick as cream. Allow the soup to boil for a few
minutes to thoroughly cook the flour, and then serve without delay in a tureen.
Puree of Asparagus.
Pick out the tender parts of the asparagus, wash thoroughly, and heat in boiling
water with some salt to make them green. When beginning to get tender, drain and
place them in cold water. When cold, drain on a clean towel, and when dry, put in
a saucepan previously prepared with a small piece of fresh butter, some sprigs of
green parsley, and a few green onions; fry them as quickly as possible, to preserve
the green color, adding a lump of sugar, a little salt, and a small quantity of fine
flour, and moisten with a good broth. Cool quickly and rub through a tammy sieve,
adding a little spinach green to color it.
Red Bean Puree Soup.
Put on the fire in a saucepan enough red beans previously soaked in cold water
for four hours and moisten with some white broth ; cook till soft and rub through a
sieve, adding a couple of ounces of salt pork blanched, some onion, carrot and a
garnished bouquet, together with a little pepper. Cook thoroughly for one hour,
and strain, adding half a glass of claret, and serve with small croutons of fried bread.
SOUPS. 21
Puree of Cardoons.
Remove the prickles from some white and sound cardoons, blanch them in water
for fifteen or twenty minutes, rub off the skins, cut them in three-inch lengths, and
put them on a wire drainer in an oval stewpan ; lay on the top some thin slices of
bacon (fat) and cover them with a white dressing made of flour, stock and clarified
fat ; add one onion, stuck with two cloves, some slices of peeled and seeded lemon,
and a little salt and pepper. Allow these to simmer until the cardoons are done,
then pour in an equal quantity of bechamel sauce, reduce and press the mixture
through a tammy-cloth. Before serving add butter and raw cream to the puree.
Carrot Puree.
Chop very finely all the red portions of some carrots ; fry them in butter, and
finish cooking by adding a little broth ; when done, reduce the broth to a glaze, stir
in six tablespoonfuls of bechamel sauce, and strain through a sieve. Mix with this
puree five or six pints of white broth, then pass it all through a sieve into a sauce-
pan, place it on the fire, and stir until it begins to bubble ; then move it on one side
of the stove and leave for an hour to settle. Skim off all the fat from the broth, and
thicken it with a mixture of four egg yolks, diluted with cream and poured through
a sieve ; and then place the soup over the fire again, stirring in a few tablespoonfuls
of blanched noodles and a lump of butter. When the soup is hot, pour it into a
soup tureen, and serve.
Celery Puree.
Prepare half a dozen heads of celery as for celery with gravy, wipe and drain,
cutting them into small pieces. Put these into a glazing-pan with an equal quantity
of bechamel sauce, reduce well and then pass all through a sieve by rubbing with the
back of a spoon. Add one ounce of butter and one teacupful of rich cream to the
mixture, and salt and pepper to suit the taste.
Puree of Herbs with Vegetables.
Wash a savoy cabbage, slice it and place it in a stewpan with two sliced leeks
and a little butter; let them fry for an hour, put with them four sliced heads of cab-
bage lettuce, one small sized beet root, one handful each of borage leaves, and sor-
rel, and one pinch of chervil. When the herbs are done, sprinkle over one table-
spoonful of flour, pour in two quarts of broth, and stir over the fire till it begins to
boil. Beat six eggs and one-fourth pint of cream and stir it in the broth. Cut a
fourth pound of butter into little bits and add it to the soup.
22 SOUPS.
Vegetable Puree.
Wash well a couple of bunches of young carrots, scrape them thoroughly and
rasp off the red parts into a saucepan, add a small quantity of butter and a slice of
lean ham, also a few leeks and sticks of celery tied up in a bundle, and stir well over
the fire until the vegetables are slightly colored, then pour in the required quantity
of fowl or other consomme, and boil slowly for two hours. Take out the roots and
ham and strain the soup into another saucepan, rub the carrots through a sieve and
add them to the soup, and bring it once more to the boil. Remove the saucepan to
the side of the fire, skim the soup carefully, add a small pinch of sugar, pour it into a
tureen and serve.
American Soup.
Put one pound of the neck of mutton into a saucepan with three-fourths of a
pound of split peas that have been previously soaked and five pints of water, and
place it over a clear fire ; when boiling, put into a saucepan one large chopped onion
half a turnip, half a carrot and a stick of celery cut into small pieces, also one-half
teaspoonful of sugar, and boil all gently for two or three hours. Cut one pound of
tomatoes into small pieces, put them into the soup, and boil it for thirty minutes
longer. Strain the soup through a fine hair sieve, pour it back into the saucepan
again, season it with pepper and salt, and boil up once more. Turn it into a soup
tureen, and serve with it a plate of sippets of toast, or croutons of fried bread.
Andalusian Soup.
Simmer gently by the side of the fire three quarts of stock, prepared as for thick
soup with clarified fish broth. Mix with one breakfast cupful of soubise puree the
yolks of four eggs. Mix half a dozen tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce with one break-
fast cupful of pike quenelle forcemeat, and season it with a little mild Spanish pepper.
Shape it into quenelles and poach them. Add the soubise preparation with the soup,
and stir it well ; then skim off all the fat from the soup. Put the quenelles into a
soup tureen, strain the soup over them, and serve with a dish of poached eggs.
Asparagus Soup.
The desired number of asparagus heads should be picked, scraped and thor-
oughly washed, the tops being broken off as far down the stalks as possible. Cook
in boiling salt water for about twenty minutes. Put the stalks into some good veal
stock and boil for twenty minutes. Then cut an onion into thin slices, and fry in
three tablespoonfuls of butter for ten minutes, being careful not to allow it to burn,
and add a portion of the asparagus tips. Cook for a few minutes, stirring gently ;
add a little flour, and continue the cooking for a few minutes longer. Remove
the stalks from the stock, pour in the contents of the frying pan and boil all together
SOUPS. 23
for twenty minutes. Then rub through a sieve. Have ready boiling a pint of milk
and a pint of cream, and add to the stock. Season well with salt and pepper and
serve.
Barley Soup.
Make with some mutton a good soup, then wash a teacupful or so of pearl barley
in two or three waters, and boil in plenty of fresh water for two hours. Strain the
liquor from it, rinse in cold water and set one side. Cut two slices of turnip, and half
that quantity of carrot and onion into small dice-shaped pieces all of one size and boil
them in a soup-stock until tender, say three-quarters of an hour. Cut up about as
small size as much meat as there was turnips and add to the soup. Follow by adding
the cooked barley and chopped parsley, seasoning slightly.
Black Bean Soup.
The night before the soup is desired, soak the beans in some water, and on the
following morning drain off the beans and place in a saucepan with some fresh water.
When boiling, remove to one side of the fire and let them simmer for six hours. Put
in with the beans a bunch of sweet herb, one large onion, a slice of carrot and turnip
and a stalk or two of celery, all of which have been finely chopped and fried in butter.
Add a little whole allspice, cloves, mace and cinnamon, and pour in some of the
stock. Put a lump of butter and an equal quantity of flour on a saucepan and stir
over the fire till brown, then stir it into the soup and keep it simmering for an hour.
Place some sliced lemon in a soup-tureen, pour in the soup through a fine hair sieve
and serve with a dish of egg-balls.
White Bean Soup.
Use three quarts of soup stock to each breakfast cupful of vegetables, such as
onions, carrots and turnips, cut up into small pieces, having more of the onions than
of the rest of the vegetables, and three breakfast cupfuls of white beans. Boil for an
hour, then add a very little flour moistened, and salt and pepper to taste, sprinkling
in a little parsley. Turn the soup into a tureen and serve.
Bonne Femme Soup.
Wash and chop four heads of lettuce finely, and put them into a saucepan with
one finely chopped cucumber, one teacupful of chopped chervil leaves, and a small
lump of butter, with grated nutmeg, salt and pepper to taste. Place the lid on the
saucepan, and allow the contents to cool quickly for ten minutes or so; then stir in
one tablespoonful of flour; pour in gradually three to four pints of veal stock, and
stir it over the fire until boiling. Move the saucepan to the side of the fire, and let
the soup simmer gently for half an hour. Beat the yolks of six eggs with one-half
24 SOUPS.
pint of cream and two teaspoonfuls of sugar, and stir it by degrees into the soup.
Pour the soup into a tureen, and serve with either sippets of toast or croutons of
fried bread.
Brunoise Soup.
Put into a saucepan an equal quantity of sliced carrots, onions, leeks, turnips and
celery, with a good sized lump of butter, and fry the vegetables until brown; then
pour in a small quantity of stock and boil it quickly until reduced to a glaze. Pour
in the desired quantity of clear soup and boil. Prepare some Italian paste, boil it
separately, then mix it with the soup. Turn the soup into a tureen and serve it with
croutons of fried bread or toast. If desired, boiled rice can be substituted for the
Italian paste, and rings of turnips fried in butter.
Cabbage Soup.
Take a good white heart cabbage, wash and trim off the outer leaves, chop it
into fine shreds, and put it in a stewpan with a quart of water, boiling until quite
tender. Put the cabbage and the water into a quart of mutton broth, adding salt and
pepper to taste, and boil once more. When ready to be served, stir in a teaspoonful
of fresh butter and two or three small lumps of sugar. The soup should be quite
thick.
Carrot Soup.
After scraping six or eight large carrots, cut off the red parts, and place them
in a stewpan, slice two onions, cut up one head of celery and a quarter of a pound or
so of raw ham, and put them into the stewpan with the carrots, then add one heap-
ing tablespoonful of butter, cover and let simmer over the fire for ten minutes ; then
add one quart of stock and allow all to simmer until the vegetables are tender.
Drain the vegetables well, pound them in a mortar, put them in with the stock in
which they were cooked, and add another pint. Strain this through a fine hair sieve,
put it into a stewpan, and stir gently over a slow fire until it boils ; then remove the
stewpan to one side, skim off all the fat, and let it simmer slowly for half an hour.
When ready to be served add a gill of cream, a little sugar, pepper and sa-lt.
Celery Soup.
Wash thoroughly and trim three or four heads of celery, and boil them in about
two quarts of white broth. When tender, take them out of the broth, and pass
through a sieve. Mix one dessertspoonful of flour, and one of corn starch with
one pint of fresh milk, stir it into the broth, add a lump of sugar and season with one
pinch of salt. Place the celery in again, and stir it until it' is quite thick, over a
moderate fire, and then put in two tablespoonfuls of butter. After it is melted and
properly blended, pour the soup into a tureen and serve hot.
SOUPS. 25
Celery and Onion Soup.
Cut four or five heads of celery into pieces four or five inches long ; wash them
free from grit, and boil them for about ten minutes. Remove, drain and put them
into another saucepan with one half pound of onions cut in slices, and add a little
each of chervil and tarragon, one pinch of salt, a little sugar, and the necessary
quantity of rich stock. Put the saucepan over the fire, and boil gently until the
celery is quite done ; then pour the soup into a tureen and serve very hot.
Cheese Soup.
Take one and one-half breakfast cupfuls of flour, one pint of rich cream, four-
tablespoonfuls each of butter and grated Parmesan cheese, a sprinkling of cayenne,
two eggs, and three quarts of clear soup stock. Stir the flour, cream, butter,
cheese, and pepper together in a basin, place this into another of hot water and
mix until the whole forms a firm smooth paste. Break into it two eggs, mix
quickly and thoroughly, and allow it to cook two minutes longer ; then set it away
to cool. When cold, roll into balls about the size of a walnut. When the balls are
all formed drop them into boiling water and cook gently for about five minutes. Put
them in a soup tureen, pour over the boiling stock and serve with a dish of finely-
grated Parmesan cheese.
Chicken Soup.
Select an old fowl, pluck, singe and draw. Stuff it with a large lump of fat
bacon, sew up the neck and vent, truss, flour it well, tie it up in a cloth and put it into
a saucepan with sufficient warm water to almost cover ; add one carrot cut in slices
and two onions and a couple of cloves. Cover the pan over securely ; allow the
water to come slowly to a boil and then simmer for three hours or so according to
the size and age of the bird. Take it out, remove the cloth, put the chicken into a
bowl, cover it completely with any desired sauce and let it remain for a day. Break
the fowl up in pieces, put back in the saucepan with the liquor ; add one breakfast
cupful of well-washed rice, a small turnip cut into pieces and a blade of mace and boil
slowly for a couple of hours : rub as much as possible through a sieve, season to taste
with salt and pepper.
Chicken Soup, Creole Style.
Prepare the same as for Chicken Soup, Holland style, adding half a chopped
green pepper, one ounce of lean raw ham cut in small pieces and adding a sliced
tomato to the soup five minutes before serving.
Chicken Soup, Holland Style.
Cut about a quarter of a chicken in small pieces and slice half an onion ; brown
these well together for ten minutes in a saucepan with one ounce of butter and
26 SOUPS.
moisten with three pints of consomme ; add three tablespoonsfuls of raw rice, half a
tablespoonful of salt, a very little red pepper and a garnished bunch of parsley.
After boiling thoroughly for twenty minutes, remove the parsley and serve.
Chicken Soup, Portuguese Style.
Prepare as for Chicken Soup, Holland Style, adding half a pint of finely
chopped cooked vegetables five minutes before serving.
Chicken Soup, Queen Style.
Take two fowls and a knuckle of veal and prepare a soup ; strain it and put it
back into the saucepan to boil. Cut off the fillets from two fowls in the meantime,
and put them into a stewpan with a little butter and cook. Cut them up in small
pieces and pound in a mortar, adding one ounce of rice boiled in broth, four ounces
of breadcrumbs and a little salt. Put the whole into a saucepan with two table-
spoonfuls of bechamel sauce and half a pint of fowl broth and stir over the fire with a
wooden spoon until done, taking care that the liquor does not boil. Rub the whole
through a fine sieve, warm it without boiling, and serve in a tureen with small pieces
of toasted bread.
Chicken Soup with Leeks.
Cut about a quarter of a chicken into slices ; brown for ten minutes in a sauce-
pan with an ounce of butter and half a chopped onion ; moisten with three pints of
consomme, and add three leeks cut in pieces, a garnished bunch of parsley, half a
tablespoonful of salt and a teaspoonful of pepper. Serve after boiling thirty minute,
and removing the parsley.
Chiffonnade Soup.
Wash, drain, and chop very fine one quart of sorrel, with the green leaves of a
lettuce-head. Brown in a saucepan, with two ounces of butter and a sliced onions
seasoning with salt and pepper. Moisten with three pints of white broth, a handful
of peas, string beans, and asparagus tops, and boil for three-quarters of an hour with
one ounce of butter. Serve with slices of toasted bread.
Clam Soup.
Prepare the clams same as for steamed clams. Take one quart of the clam
liquor, after it has settled, place it in a saucepan, boil, and remove the scum ; then
add one pint of boiling water, and season with parsley, salt, pepper, cayenne and
onion. Put in the hard part of the clams, which have been previously removed, and
let it simmer for fifteen or twenty minutes longer, then strain and boil once more, and
while it is boiling thicken it with two tablespoonfuls of flour, cooked in one table-
SOUPS. 27
spoonful of butter. Pour one pint of hot cream or milk, and the soft part of the
clams, and when they are all done place them on a dish, and serve with crackers and
pickles.
Clear Soup.
Skim off the fat from two quarts of stock, pour it into a saucepan, and put in an
equal quantity of prepared carrots, turnips, celery, leeks, a bunch of sweet herbs and
parsley, one-fourth pound of scraped beef, a few peppercorns, a lump of salt, and the
whites and shells of two eggs. Stand the saucepan over the fire, whip the contents
till boiling, then stop whipping, and let simmer for fifteen minutes over a moderate
fire. Strain the soup first through a fine hair sieve, then two or three times through
a jelly bag, till it is quite clear. If desired, wine may be added to the soup before
serving.
Clear Soup with Nudels.
Prepare the desired quantity of clear broth from beef, and skim it well. Peel
and slice some carrots, onions and green leeks, put them into a stewpan with a good
sized lump of butter and one young cabbage cut into thin shreds, cover with the lid,
and put them over a very slow fire, where they may stew gently until quite tender,
shaking the pan now and then. When the vegetables are cooked put them into the
soup, and boil the whole gently for thirty minutes or so. Make the nudels as fol-
lows: Slightly warm one-fourth pound of butter and beat it until creamy, then work
in with it slowly and smoothly three heaping tablespoonfuls of flour and three well
beaten eggs. Strain the soup and return it to the saucepan; when it boils up again
put in small quantities of the paste, moulding them into round balls with the hands,
which should be constantly dipped in water, and let it simmer for an hour or so
longer. When ready pour the soup into a tureen and serve.
Colbert Soup.
Cut the hearts from four or five heads of celery, blanch them well, put them in
a saucepan with a lump of butter, and fry; then pour in some clear soup and boil it.
Beat the yolks of three eggs with one teacupful of cream, move the saucepan to the
side of the fire, and stir in the eggs and the cream quickly. Poach some eggs, put
them into a soup tureen, pour the sauce over them, and serve.
Corn and Tomato Soup.
Cut two pounds of beef into small pieces, put it into a saucepan with three
quarts of water, and boil gently at one side of the fire for two hours. Skim the
liquor, put in several large tomatoes, and boil them for an hour. When cooked,
drain and pass the tomatoes through a fine sieve, and return them to the soup. Boil
a few ears of corn in salted water ; when cooked, free the corn from the cob and put
28 SOUPS.
it in the soup ; also put in a small lump of butter and season to taste with salt and
pepper. Boil the soup again, pour it into a soup tureen, and serve with a plate of
sippets of toast or croutons of fried bread.
Crab Soup.
Open some small uncooked crabs, and remove the deadman's ringers and sand-
bags. Cut the crabs in two, parboil and extract the meat from the claws, and remove
the fat from the back of the shells. Place some ripe tomatoes in a basin, scald and
skin them, and squeeze the pulp through a colander, keeping back the seeds. Pour
boiling water over the seeds and juice of the tomatoes and strain. Put in a saucepan
one clove of garlic, one onion, one tablespoonful of butter, and two tablespoonfuls of
lard, and the pulp of the tomatoes and let it stew a short time. Put the meat from
the claws of the crab, and lastly the fat into the soup, season with sweet marjoram,
parsley, lemon, salt, and black and red pepper. Pour in the water in which the seeds
were scalded, simmer for one hour and thicken with breadcrumbs.
Croute-Au-Pot.
Cut two carrots and one turnip into round slices and add to these a few short
pieces of celery stalks and a little white cabbage. Stew these for a few minutes in a
covered stewpan and add one heaping tablespoonful of butter. As soon as the veg-
etables are beginning to take color pour over them three pints of broth, half a table-
spoonful of salt and one teaspoonful of pepper. Boil this slowly for one-half hour or
more, and then pour into a hot tureen in which a few pieces of toasted bread or rolls
have been previously placed. Serve very hot.
Duchess Soup.
Put two large, sliced onions into a saucepan with two tablespoonfuls of butter,
and fry them for eight minutes. Sift in two tablespoonfuls of flour, and fry it for
three minutes, stirring well to prevent its burning ; then pour in slowly one quart of
boiling milk, season to taste with pepper and salt, and stir over the fire for fifteen
minutes. Strain the above mixture, put it back into the saucepan, add two table-
spoonfuls of grated cheese, and place it over the fire. Beat three eggs, with a little
salt and pepper, then pour them through a strainer into the soup. Move the sauce-
pan to the side of the fire, and stir the contents for a few minutes. Turn the soup
into a tureen, and serve it with a plate of sippets of toast.
Ducks' Giblet Soup.
Take three or four lots of duck's giblets, scald, clean, cut them into pieces, and
put in a stewpan ; add three quarts of water, a pound and a half of gravy beef, two
SOUPS. 29
onions, a bunch of sweet herbs, and the rind of half a lemon, and simmer until the
gizzards are soft. Strain the broth, add some slices of onion fried brown in butter,
mix in sufficient flour to thicken the soup, and stir over the fire a few minutes until
it boils. Strain, skim and pour the soup into a tureen, put back the piece of lemon
peel, and add two teaspoonfuls of catsup and two wineglassfuls of Madeira wine,
and serve with toasted bread cut into dice.
Farmer's Soup.
Thoroughly clean a bullock's head, break the bones and cut the meat into small
pieces. Put them in a large pan with some bacon fat, and fry them until lightly
browned. Chop finely two carrots, a root of celery, one turnip, two lettuces, half a
cabbage and a few French beans ; put them in with the onions and leek, and cook
them over a slow fire until the moisture has evaporated. Blanch one pound of raw
ham, then put it in with the vegetables, and pour over some broth. When boiling,
move the pan to the side of the fire, and let the broth simmer for thirty minutes or
so. Then put in one breakfast cupful of minced potatoes, and boil them gently until
nearly cooked, and then put in two shredded lettuces, a handful of shredded sorrel, and
one pinch of chopped chervil. Finish cooking the soup, then remove the ham. Put
some slices of toasted bread into the soup tureen, pour in the soup and serve.
Fish Soup.
Melt in a stewpan on the fire two ounces of butter, put in a couple of sliced car-
rots and a sliced onion, and fry them brown, then add one quart of water, a sprig of
thyme, two or three laurel leaves, three or four cloves, a dessertspoonful of sugar
and half a pint of shrimps: boil until the carrots are quite soft, then add any cold fish,
with the bones, and boil for twenty minutes. Toast some small pieces of bread and
put them in the tureen; add half a glass of white wine to the soup, strain it over them
and serve.
Flemish Soup.
Put an equal quantity of carrots, onions and turnips cut into small pieces in a
saucepan, with a head of lettuce, two leeks, a head of endive, a little chervil and a
lump of butter, one-half pint of either mutton or beef broth; boil all gently till tender,
stirring now and then, then pour in two quarts of boiling broth, season it with pepper,
salt and sugar and let it simmer for two hours. Beat the yolks of three eggs with
one-half pint of cream, stir it in with the soup, turn into a tureen and serve.
Game Soup.
Put the carcasses and remains of any cold cooked game into a stewpan with two
or three peeled carrots and turnips, a bunch of sweet herbs, salt and pepper to taste,
and a moderate quantity of spices. Cover the whole with plenty of stock and
30 SOUPS.
simmer gently for three or four hours. When sufficiently boiled strain the liquor into
a basin, pick off all the meat that can be got from the bones and pound it in a mor-
tar, soak half its bulk of breadcrumbs in a little of the liquor, and when soft mix
them with the meat. Pass the mixture through a fine hair sieve, put in a saucepan
with the strained liquor, add more seasoning if necessary and boil. Beat the yolks of
two eggs and a wineglassful of sherry, strain and stir in with the soup, first moving
the saucepan to the side of the fire. Turn the soup into a tureen and serve it with a
plate of sippets of toast or croutons of bread fried in butter.
Gourmet's Soup.
Put a large knuckle of veal into a saucepan or stockpot, together with two
roasted fowls and any beef bones that may be at hand, pour in ten pints of beef stock
and boil for ten minutes; carefully skim off all the scum, prepare and add the desired
quantities of any vegetables that may be in season and a little pepper, and boil for
five hours, by which time the liquor should be reduced to about four quarts; then
skim off the fat, remove the meat and bones, clarify with the white of beaten egg,
which has been beaten with a small quantity of beef stock, and boil for twenty
minutes longer. Strain through a cloth into another saucepan, and add the red part
of a carrot and a turnip, cut with a vegetable cutter into columns and afterward into
slices about one-eighth of an inch in thickness, also two heads of celery and two leeks
cut into slices, all these having been previously blanched; add also a small quantity
each of sorrel and chervil, and two lettuces cut up into pieces, and boil all for another
hour; then put in a little sugar, and finally about three tablespoonfuls of blanched
asparagus. Place some small croutons of fried bread or pieces of toast at the bottom
of a soup tureen, pour over the boiling soup and serve.
Green Pea Soup.
Put four quarts of freshly shelled green peas into a stewpan with a little salt, a
small onion, a few sprigs of mint and parsley tied together, and water to cover. Boil
the peas until tender, then strain, remove the onion, mint and parsley, and rub the
peas through a fine hair sieve into a basin. Have ready boiling as much clear stock
as will make the required quantity of soup, from which all the fat has been removed,
put in the peas, with about one ounce of butter and one or two teaspoonfuls of
spinach green to give it a brighter color, and boil up again, then turn it into a soup
tureen and serve with sippets of toast.
Herb Soup with Parmesan Cheese.
Wash in plenty of water a head of young celery, one handful each of sorrel,
chervil and chives, a few sprigs of parsley, and a small quantity of tarragon; drain
the herbs thoroughly and cut them into pieces. Put them in a saucepan with three
SOUPS. 31
pints of clear broth, and boil gently till tender. Cut some slices of French rolls into
pieces about the size of a quarter of a dollar, dip them in hot butter, and roll in finely
grated Parmesan cheese, giving them a good coating. Spread a sheet of white paper
over a baking tin, arrange the pieces of bread on top, and bake until lightly browned;
then add them to the soup when in the tureen.
Hunter's Soup.
Peel and cut into thin slices an equal quantity of carrots and onions, put them
into a saucepan with a head of celery that has been washed and cut into small pieces,
about two ounces of rather lean ham or bacon, a bunch of parsley and a small lump
of butter. Fry all these until lightly browned, then dredge in a liberal quantity of
flour and fry that also until browned. Stir in one pint of red wine and two quarts of
broth, leave it over the fire until boiling, then move it to the side and let simmer.
Clean and lay three partridges on a roasting pan and roast them in a brisk oven,
basting well with butter. When the partridges are cooked, cut the flesh off the bones
into nice equal-sized pieces. Break the bones into small pieces, put them into the
soup, boil quickly for twenty minutes, then strain it through a fine hair sieve. Season
the soup with salt and pepper, then return it to the saucepan with the pieces of par-
tridge meat, and allow it to get thoroughly hot at the side of the fire, but do not let
it boil again ; then turn it into a soup tureen and serve it with a plate of sippets of
toast or croutons of fried bread.
Italian Soup.
After a cow-heel has been used for making jelly, cut the flesh off into small
pieces. Put one-half teacupful of sage into a stewpan with sufficient water to
cook it, and boil until dissolved. Take a sufficient quantity of clear stock to make the
soup, and place it in a saucepan over the fire until boiling. Warm the pieces of meat
in the soup, put the sago at the bottom of a soup-tureen with one ounce of grated
Parmesan cheese, pour the hot soup over them and serve with a plate of sippets of
toast, or small croutons of bread that have been fried to a delicate brown in butter.
Julienne Soup.
Peel some carrots, onions, leeks and turnips and cut them into thin strips of an
equal size and length, either straight or scalloped. Cut some heads of celery into
pieces the same size. Put two ounces of butter into a stewpan, place in the prepared
vegetables and toss over a slow fire for a few minutes. Other vegetables may be
added, such as cauliflower, peas or asparagus when in season. Pour in over the vege-
tables as much clear chicken broth as may be desired for the soup, and put in any
nice pieces of cold roast chicken that may be available. When boiling, move the
soup to the side of the fire and let it simmer until the vegetables are tender. Put
32 SOUPS.
some thin sippets of toast, or croutons of fried bread into a soup tureen, pour the
soup over it and serve.
Lamb Soup.
Cut a shoulder of lamb into moderately large pieces, place them in a stewpan
with an onion and a piece of butter ; fry until nicely browned then dredge in a table-
spoonful each of flour and curry powder, stir it all over the fire for two minutes, then
pour in three quarts of broth, some trimmings of raw ham and a bunch of parsley.
When the liquor boils, remove the stewpan to the side of the fire and let it simmer
until the meat is cooked. When done, take the pieces of lamb out, pass the cook-
ing liquor through a fine hair sieve, place in with it half a pound of boiled rice,
and again boil gently for ten minutes. Bone the meat and put it in a soup
tureen, thicken the soup with the yolks of three eggs beaten together with a little
cream, then strain it through a fine colander over the meat, and serve while hot
with sippets of toast or small dice of fried bread in a separate vessel such as a
dish or plate.
Lark Soup.
Boil ten ounces of washed rice in broth till reduced to a puree, adding now and
then a little more broth to keep it thin. Singe, draw and clean two dozen larks,
fry them in a stewpan, sprinkle with salt and pepper, allow them to cool, then remove
their fillets, and trim neatly. With the bones and trimmings of the larks prepare a
little stock. When made, pass it through a fine hair sieve into the rice puree. Place
the fillets in the soup, warm them up again, and then pour all into a hot dish. Add
one pinch of chopped green mint, and the juice of two oranges and serve.
Leek Soup.
Mix two tablespoonfuls of oatmeal with a small quantity of cold water, put it in
a saucepan, stir in about one quart of boiling mutton broth, adding it by degrees,
then throw in as many leeks as are required, and boil until tender and the liquor is of
the consistency of cream. Remove the pan from the fire, stir in the yolks of two
eggs beaten up in a little of the broth, turn the whole into a tureen and serve.
Lettuce Soup.
Cool and press out all the water from about two dozen blanched lettuces, cut
them down the centres without entirely separating, dust over salt and pepper, and
place them in a saucepan with half a pint of veal broth, and the same of rich fowl con-
somme, add a small bunch of parsley, a clove, one onion, one carrot, and a little
thyme and bay leaf. Cover with a sheet of buttered paper, place the lid on the pan,
and boil the lettuce gently for two hours. Take them out, drain on a cloth, cut them
into halves, place them in a soup tureen, pour in the strained stock in which they
SOUPS.
33
were cooked, together with three pints more of boiling broth, and serve with pieces of
toast floating on the top.
Macaroni Soup.
Put one-fourth pound of macaroni into a saucepan with one ounce of butter and
an onion stuck with five or six cloves, and boil until the macaroni is quite tender ;
remove it, drain, place it in a saucepan and pour over two quarts of good broth.
Place the pan at the side of the fire and simmer the macaroni gently for about ten
minutes, taking care that it does not break or become pulpy. Add a little grated
Parmesan cheese, pour all into a tureen and serve.
Macedoine Soup.
Line the bottom of a saucepan with some thin slices of ham, then put in an
equal quantity of turnips, potatoes and onions, about three of each, and cut up very
small ; pour in some stock, season with pepper and salt, and let simmer gently until
cooked to a pulp. Pass the soup and vegetables through a fine hair sieve, return it to
the saucepan, pour in one pint of cream, and stir it by the fire for a few minutes.
When ready to be served, pour the soup into a tureen.
Milanese Soup.
Put into a stewpan a piece of raw ham with one-half pound of chopped bacon
and about one and one-half breakfast cupfuls of haricot beans. Wash a savoy cab-
bage and cut it into fine shreds and put it in with the above ingredients ; then pour
in three quarts or more of broth and place the stewpan over the fire. Cut up enough
celery roots into small pieces to fill a breakfast cup, and after the broth has boiled
for ten minutes, put them in with it. Then put in the stewpan one breakfast cupful
of beans, an equal amount of green peas and asparagus heads, three-fourths of a pound
of unwashed and unbroken rice, two smoked sausages, and one chopped tomato.
Move the stewpan to the side of the fire, and allow the contents to simmer until the
rice is done. When soft, mix in with the soup a fair quantity of grated Parmesan
cheese. Take out the ham and sausage, cut the sausages into small pieces, put them
into a soup tureen, pour the soup and vegetables over them and serve, send to the
table at the same time a plateful of sippets of toast or croutons of fried bread.
Mullagatawny Soup.
Put one-fourth pound of butter into a saucepan, add three or four sliced onions
and fry them until done. Cut two rabbits into nice sized pieces, put them in with
the onions and fry for a few minutes ; then pour in three or four pints of clear broth
and let it boil gently for an hour. Take the rabbit out of the saucepan, pass the
onions and liquor through a fine hair sieve, return them to the stewpan, pour in one
quart of broth and boil for an hour longer. Put two tablespoonfuls of flour into
34
SOUPS.
frying panwith a little butter and fry it until nicely browned. Stir in gradually suf-
ficient broth or water to make a good paste. Stir the curry into the soup ; add a
little lemon-pickle and let it simmer gently for half an hour, stirring frequently to
prevent the flour from sticking to the bottom of the saucepan. Turn the soup into
a tureen and serve with it a dish of plain boiled rice.
Mussel Soup.
Clean thoroughly one-half gallon of mussels, and toss them in a saucepan over a
fire until the shells open. Take them out, remove the weeds, etc., put them into a
saucepan with one ounce each of butter and flour, and add a little chopped parsley
and sweet herbs ; put the pan on the fire, pour in three pints of rich gravy, boil up,
remove the pan to the side of the fire, and let the contents simmer until the liquor is
reduced to half its original quantity. Pour it out into a dish garnished with pieces of
fried bread. Serve very hot.
Pickled Mussels.
Take any quantity of cooked mussels, pick them out of their shells, remove the
beards, put them into jars or wide-mouthed bottles, and sprinkle over with salt and
pepper. Strain some of their liquor (that is, what comes from them when being
cooked) and add to it an equal quantity of vinegar ; fill up the bottles with the
liquor, tie them down, let them remain for a day or so, when the mussels will be
ready for use. They may be eaten hot by pouring a little of the liquor into a sauce-
pan, with some minced parsley, pepper and salt to taste, and thickening with a
little butter, well rolled in flour. Add the mussels, allow them to remain in it until
thoroughly warmed through, and serve.
Neapolitan Soup.
Cut into rather small pieces, one-fourth of a raw chicken, put them into a sauce-
pan with one ounce of butter, one ounce of lean raw ham, half a green pepper, half of
a sliced onion and one sliced carrot, and stew gently for ten minutes ; then moisten
with three pints of white broth, season with one-half tablespoonful of salt, one tea-
spoonful of pepper and add one tablespoonful of raw rice. Let it simmer for fifteen
minutes, or until about half-cooked, then put in one ounce of macaroni in small
pieces, and half of a tomato. Boil again for ten minutes, and serve with two table-
spoonfuls of grated cheese separately.
Noodle Soup.
Beat well the yolks of four eggs in two tablespoonfuls of water and one salt-
spoonful of salt, whip the white of one egg separately, add it to the rest and sift in
gradually, stirring at the same time, a sufficient quantity of finely sifted flour to make
SOUPS. 35
a stiff paste. When quite smooth lay the paste on a floured board and roll out very
thinly. Cut the paste into diamond-shaped pieces, put them on a cloth and keep
them in a warm place until dry. Prepare some nicely flavored clear soup and when
it is boiling very fast throw in the pieces of paste and boil for ten to fifteen minutes.
Pour the soup in a soup tureen and serve while very hot, with a plate of Parmesan
cheese.
Okra Soup.
Cut in slices a quarter of a pound of pork, put it in a fryingpan, fry gently for
a few minutes and add a sliced onion and one quart of green okra pods cut into small
pieces. Put the lid on and fry the okras for thirty minutes. In the meantime cut
the meat from a cold roast fowl, place the bones in a saucepan with a quart of water
and boil. Squeeze out all the pork fat from the okras and onions and place these in
the saucepan with the bones. Put three tablespoonfuls of flour in the pan with the
pork fat, and when it is a rich brown add it to the bones in the saucepan; cover over
the pot and simmer gently for three hours. Strain through a fine sieve into another
saucepan, pour in two quarts of stock and add the fowl meat cut in pieces and salt
and pepper to taste. Simmer gently for twenty minutes, turn the whole into a tureen
and serve very hot.
Onion Soup.
Mix one or two tablespoonfuls of oatmeal in cold water until it is quite smooth,
then pour in gradually three pints of liquor in which a leg of mutton has been boiled,
turn all into a stewpan with several peeled and chopped onions, and cook until of the
consistency of cream, or leave out the oatmeal, substitute wheat flour, and stir it into
the soup while boiling; a few minutes before serving add the yolks of two or three
eggs, removing the pan from the fire before putting them in.
Spanish Onion Soup.
Peel three large Spanish onions, cut and separate them into rings, and fry in a
little butter until they are of a light brown color and quite tender. Remove and
drain on a fine sieve, and put them into a saucepan with two quarts of water. Put
the pan on the fire, boil for an hour, stirring frequently, add salt and pepper to taste,
add the finely sifted crumb of a roll, and mix thoroughly. Boil for one hour longer,
and just before serving add the yolks of two eggs, beaten into two tablespoonfuls of
vinegar and a small quantity of the soup. Mix this in, stirring one way, pour into a
tureen and serve. Soup prepared in this way will keep four or five days.
Ox-Tail Soup.
Cut the tails into joints, wash the pieces, and fry them in a small quantity of
butter, next drain the pieces of tail and put them in a stewpan with a ham bone, two or
three carrots and onions peeled and sliced, a head of celery, washed and cut in convenient
36 SOUPS.
sized pieces, a bunch of sweet herbs, a blade of mace and a few cloves and pepper-
corns. Cover the contents of the stewpan with water, place it over the fire, and boil
and skim until the scum ceases to rise ; then cover and boil slowly until the tail is
quite tender. When ready, cut the meat into small pieces ; strain and skim the
soup, return it to the stewpan, thicken with flour, and add a wineglassful of sherry
wine, and two tablespoonfuls of mushroom catsup. Put in the pieces of meat
again and let the soup simmer at the side of the fire for a few minutes longer. Turn
the soup into a soup tureen, and serve with sippets of toast, or croutons of fried
bread.
Oyster Soup.
Blanch two or three dozen oysters in their own liquor, beard them, and cut them
into small pieces. Put two ounces of butter in a saucepan with a tablespoonful of flour
and mix well over the fire, then stir in as much fish stock as will make the required
quantity of soup. Continue stirring until it boils, then put in the oysters and their
liquor, previously strained, add a moderate quantity of minced parsley, salt and
pepper to taste and a little grated nutmeg. Beat the yolks of two eggs in with the
juice of half a lemon and strain them ; move the soup off the fire and stir in the
beaten eggs. Pour it in a soup tureen, and serve with a plate of sippets of toast or
croutons of fried bread.
Parisian Soup.
Cut four leeks into strips, fry them in a little butter at the bottom of a stewpan,
pour over one quart of well-seasoned mutton stock, add six or seven boiled potatoes
cut into slices, and season with pepper and salt to taste. Boil all together until the
leeks are thoroughly done. Fry a few crusts of bread, put them in the tureen and
pour the soup over.
Parmesan Cheese Quenelle Soup.
Put two ounces of butter in a saucepan on the fire, melt it and add sufficient
flour to form a roux. Cook this for a few minutes, add more flour to form a soft
paste and let it dry for a few minutes longer over the fire, then add the yolk of six
eggs, two ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, a small quantity of chicken glaze, salt,
pepper and grated nutmeg to taste, and lastly a slight coloring of essence of spinach.
Poach a small portion of this quenelle mixture to determine its firmness; should it be
too thick add a little broth, but if too thin add a little more yolk of egg. Form it
into quenelles, put these into a buttered saute pan, pour over some boiling stock and
poach them about fifteen minutes.
Pea Soup.
Put over the fire in four quarts of water or broth a ham bone, bones of roasted
beef or mutton, two heads of celery washed and trimmed, four onions peeled and one
and one-half pounds of split peas. Let it boil till the peas are quite soft, take out
SOUPS. 37
the bones and rub peas and vegetables through a sieve, return them to the soup, add
salt and pepper to taste and boil it for an hour, skimming it when required. Spinach
or green peas added when the bones are taken out improves the soup very much.
Peasant Soup.
Cut into square-shaped pieces two carrots, an eighth of a cabbage, half a turnip,
half an onion, one potato, and two or three leaves of celery. Steam them for ten
minutes with two ounces of butter in a stewpan, then moisten with three pints of
white broth, and season with one-half tablespoonful of salt and one teaspoonful of
pepper. Cook for thirty minutes, and when ready to serve add six thin slices of
bread.
Pomeranian Soup.
Put one quart of red haricot /beans in a saucepan of water with a lump of salt,
and boil them until soft. Drain the beans, put half of them on a wire sieve, and rub
them through with the back of a wooden spoon. Put the mashed beans into a sauce-
pan, and stir in gradually sufficient broth to make the soup, which will be three or
four pints. A head of celery cut small and previously boiled in soup will greatly
improve the flavor. Put in a small bunch of parsley, and sweet herbs and the whole
beans, season to taste with pepper and salt, and boil all for fifteen minutes or a little
longer. Remove the bunch of herbs from the soup, pour it into a tureen, and serve
it with sippets of toast or croutons of fried bread.
Potato Soup.
Boil in their skins about a dozen medium-sized potatoes, and when done, peel
and pass them through a fine sieve. Put a lump of butter about the size of an egg in
a saucepan, let it melt, and add a tablespoonful of arrowroot, and stir over the fire
until well browned; then add the potatoes with as much well flavored stock as will
be required for the soup; boil all together. When done, pour the soup into a soup
tureen, and serve while hot with a plate of sippets of toast or croutons of fried bread.
Beef Pot-au-feu.
About six pounds of any cut of beef will do for this ; tie the meat up with a string,
and put it, with the bone, in a very large saucepan filled with sufficient water to cover
the meat, then place on fire and boil. As the scum rises skim- off with a skimmer.
Do not allow the water to quite boil ; this may be regulated by adding a very small
quantity of cold water from time to time, which prevents bubbling and allows the
scum to rise, then salt to taste, adding a whole pepper, allspice and an onion stuck
with cloves, another onion toasted almost black, a leek and three carrots of average
size cut in lengths, two turnips cut in four, and a bunch of herbs, such as bay leaves,
thyme and marjoram, a clove of garlic and a small handful of parsley, all tied to-
38 SOUPS.
gether into a bundle. The vegetables should be added gradually so as not to check
the gentle simmering, which it is needful to keep uninterrupted. Skim again, and
leave on stove to simmer for four hours. Strain and skim before serving ; add a
little sugar, and more salt to taste, make very hot and pour into a soup-tureen over
small slices of toasted bread without crusts. Vegetables may be added or not,
according to taste.
French Pot-au-Feu.
Melt in a large saucepan a good-sized lump of butter, and place in some pieces
of meat (almost any kind of trimmings from joints will do), which have been well
washed or an old fowl or rabbit. Place the lid on the pan and shake the contents
over a fire for a few minutes, then move it to one side and pour in some boiling
water, judging the quantity by that of the meat, and simmer gently at the edge of the
fire for three or four hours, when some vegetables may be added, such as carrots,
turnip, leeks, onions, celery, etc., all nicely pared ; season well, letting the whole
stew until the vegetables have become quite tender, a bunch of sweet herbs tied in a
bag should be added. When done, take out the vegetables and place them in a
soup tureen, straining the liquor through a fine sieve over them, and serve with a
plate of sippets of toast.
Princess Soup.
Separate the meat from the bones of a cold roasted fowl, chop the meat, place it
in a mortar, and pound it well. Put the bones and trimmings of the fowl into a
saucepan with one pint of boiling veal stock, and boil for half an hour. Peel and
cut into slices four large cucumbers ; put one-fourth pound of butter in a stewpan to
melt ; then put in two or three sliced onions, one-half pound of lean ham, one or
two sprigs of basil, two bay leaves and the sliced cucumbers. Fry them over a brisk
fire for a few minutes, then pour in one pint of broth, and let it simmer for half an
hour ; add the pounded fowl, four tablespoonfuls of sago, and four tablespoonfuls of
flour, and stir until well mixed ; pour in the broth from the chicken bones, and boil
the whole gently for twenty minutes. Pass the soup through a fine hair sieve into
another stewpan, and stir it over the fire until boiling; pour in one quart of boiling
milk, skim it, and season with salt and one teaspoonful of sugar. Put the slices of
cucumbers into a soup tureen with one-half pint of boiled green peas and one teacup-
ful of thick cream, pour in the soup, stir until well mixed, and then serve it. Should
the soup be too thick, add a little more milk of broth before turning it into the tureen.
Quenelle Soup.
Pour one teacupful of water into a saucepan, set it over the fire, add a small lump
of butter and a pinch of salt, stir well until it boils, add sufficient flour to form a fairly
thick paste, turn it out on to a dish, and stand it on a cool place until cold. Cut one-
half pound of lean veal into small pieces and pound them thoroughly in a mortar,
SOUPS. 39
adding by degrees two ounces of the above paste, and three or four ounces of butter ;
beat well together, then add the yolks of two eggs and the white of one, and season
to taste with grated nutmeg, pepper and salt. Rub the whole through a fine hair
sieve, adding a little cream, and with the aid of two teaspoons form the mass into
quenelles. Place them side by side in a saucepan, pour in carefully sufficient boiling
stock to cover them, and cook gently for a few minutes. Pour the necessary quantity
of well flavored stock or broth into a tureen, add the quenelles and serve hot. The
stock in which they were cooked may also be poured in if desired.
Rice-and-Pea Soup.
Wash thoroughly one teacupful of rice, put it into a saucepan with one pint of
white stock, and allow it to boil gently until it is very tender. Put one-half pint of
young green peas into another saucepan with one pint of white stock and stew them
until tender. When both the above vegetables are cooked, stir them together and
add as much more stock as will make the required quantity of soup; when boiling
move the pan to the side of the fire, and stir in quickly the yolk of an egg that has
been beaten up with one pint of cream. Season to the taste with salt and pepper,
pour the soup into a soup tureen, and serve it with a plateful of sippets of toast or
croutons of bread fried in butter to a delicate brown.
Rice-and-Tomato Soup.
Put one-half pound of well washed rice into a saucepan with two quarts of vege-
table stock, and boil the whole until tender. When the rice is cooked, move the
saucepan to the side of the fire, and mix in the contents of a can of tomatoes and one
ounce of butter. Pour the soup into a tureen, and serve it with sippets of toast or
croutons of bread that have been fried in butter.
Russian Julienne Soup.
Cut into strips one celery root, one carrot, one turnip, one leek, two onions and
a small cabbage, and have ready; also cut up a quantity of mushrooms equal in bulk
to all the other vegetables. Put the leek and onions into a saucepan with a small
lump of butter, and fry them; do not, however, let them take a color. Then put in
the other vegetables, together with the mushrooms, and cook gently until the moisture
of the latter is reduced; pour over sufficient rich broth to moisten, reduce this to a
glaze, pour over three or four quarts of boiling broth, remove the saucepan to the
side of the fire, and allow the contents to simmer gently for an hour and a half. Mix
well, stir in a little finely chopped fennel, and strain in enough sour cream to thicken;
turn the soup into a tureen, and serve with rissoles, croquettes or meat patties. This
latter is strictly the Russian way of serving this soup.
40 SOUPS.
Sago Soup.
Wash one-fourth pound of sago, and boil it for one hour in plenty of water, ad-
ding a small piece of stick cinnamon, the rind of one lemon, and a pinch of salt. At
the end of that time mix with the sago three or four slices of lemon, sufficient red
wine to make. the required quantity of soup, and sugar to taste. Stir the soup over
the fire until boiling, then remove the lemon-peel and cinnamon. Sprinkle some
powdered sugar and cinnamon in with the soup and serve it.
Sanitary Soup.
Trim off the exterior leaves of three large lettuces, wash the remainder and cut
them into fine shreds. Wash and shred a small quantity of beetroot leaves, one
handful each of chervil and celery leaves, and about two handfuls of sorrel leaves.
Put two leeks and one sliced onion into a saucepan with a little butter and toss them
over the fire until the butter has melted and commenced to boil ; then throw in the
beetroot, celery and lettuce leaves and fry them for ten minutes ; add the sorrel and
chervil, pour in two quarts of broth, boil it for fifteen minutes, then move the sauce-
pan to the side of the fire and skim off all the fat. Put some thin slices of bread
into a soup tureen, soak them with a little of the soup for a few minutes, then pour
in the remainder and serve.
Solferino Soup.
Put into a saucepan with some clear stock an equal quantity each of new pota-
toes, string and haricot beans, young carrots and green peas ; add a little chopped
celery, parsley and chives. Let the soup simmer by the side of the fire till the veg-
etables are cooked, then put in a little tomato puree and season to taste with pepper
and salt. Put some croutons of fried or toasted bread in a soup tureen, pour the soup
over them and serve.
Sorrel Soup.
Wash well one-fourth pound of fresh sorrel and cut it into small pieces. Put
two ounces of butter into a saucepan and make it hot ; then put in the sorrel and
toss it over the fire for a few minutes. Pour one pint of bechamel sauce over the
sorrel, and stew it gently for fifteen or twenty minutes, seasoning to taste with salt
and pepper and any kind of herbs desired. Cut some slices of bread, toast or fry
them in butter till lightly browned, and cut them into small squares ; then put them
in a soup tureen, pour the soup over them and serve.
Soubise Soup.
Put into a saucepan two thinly sliced onions, four thin slices of bread, one-half
pint of milk and two pints of water. When boiling, mix with the above ingredients
SOUPS. 41
two ounces of butter, and salt and pepper to taste. Stew them slowly by the side of
the fire until the onions will mash to a pulp. Pass the soup through a fine hair sieve,
return it to the saucepan, add the beaten yolks of two eggs, and stir it by the side
of the fire until thick. Pour the soup into a tureen, and serve with sippets of toast.
Spanish Soup, Parisian Style.
Chop up four large onions and fry them in a little butter. Add a small quantity
of sugar, and when the onions are of a light golden color put them into a saucepan
with two quarts of warmed broth, a little parsley, and a bay leaf, and boil for eight
minutes. Place some thin slices of toast in a tureen, arranging them in layers,
sprinkle with pepper, pour the soup over them and serve.
Tapioca Soup with Tomatoes.
Put six ounces of tapioca into a saucepan, pour over one-half gallon of rich
strained broth, boil for a couple of minutes, and move the pan to the side of the fire
and simmer gently. Remove the seeds from four or five large tomatoes, put them in
a saucepan with a small onion, a small sprig of parsley and a bay leaf tied up with
it, also a few peppercorns and salt to taste. Put the saucepan over the fire, reduce
the moisture of the tomatoes, rub the whole through a fine hair sieve into the soup,
and serve when the tapioca is thoroughly done and dissolved.
Terrapin Soup.
Put the shells, heads and trimmings of three terrapins into a saucepan with plenty
of water and boil them gently for two or three hours, skimming it well the first time
it bubbles. When all the good has been extracted from the shells, etc., strain the
liquor into a clean saucepan, put in the pieces of terrapin meat and boil them for an
hour; the fat should be added after the meat has boiled for a short time. At the end
of an hour take out the pieces of terrapin and put them on a dish to cool, strain their
liquor into a bowl; put the bones that have been separated from the meat into two
quarts of water until all the gelatine has dissolved, then add the strained liquor, a bunch
of thyme and parsley, one teaspoonful of bruised peppercorns, two cloves, one teaspoon-
ful of chopped onion and half a blade of mace, and let it boil for about thirty min-
utes longer. Cut the cold meat of the terrapin into small square pieces, strain the
soup into a clean saucepan, put in the meat and boil it up. Boil up one quart of
cream in another saucepan, put one tablespoonful of flour, a lump of butter the size
of a hen's egg into a saucepan, stir it over the fire until mixed, then pour in the boil-
ing cream; strain this through a strainer into the soup. The soup should be served
as soon as the cream is mixed with it.
42 SOUPS.
Mock Terrapin Soup.
Chop into small pieces two pounds of roasted or boiled beef, put into a
saucepan, pour in one breakfast cupful each of milk and wine, and add two ounces
of butter rolled in flour, two or three tablespoonfuls of made mustard, and a little
grated nutmeg. Place the saucepan on the fire, boil for about fifteen or twenty
minutes, turn into a tureen and serve.
Tomato Soup.
Put one quart of tomatoes into a saucepan with one pint of hot water, and bring
it to the boil. Rub together two heaping tablespoonfuls of flour and one table-
spoonful of butter ; stir this into the boiling mixture, and season. Boil for fifteen
minutes in all, and pass it through a fine sieve. Cut off some thin slices of bread,
without their crusts, butter them, cut them into dice and plac hem in a pan with
their buttered sides up, and brown them in a quick oven. Serve the bread and soup
separately.
Turnip and Rice Soup.
Peel and wash some turnips, and put them in a saucepan with some washed rice,
using more turnip than rice. Put in a lump of butter and sufficient water to cook
them and allow them to simmer gently until tender. Pass the mixture through a
fine hair sieve, return it to the saucepan, mix in some milk, and season it with salt
and pepper ; stir the mixture over the fire with a wooden spoon, and let it simmer
for fifteen or twenty minutes ; then stir in a lump of butter and one-half pint of
cream. Turn the soup into a soup tureen, and serve with a plateful of croutons of
fried bread or sippets of toast.
Turtle Soup from Dried Turtle.
Cut into small pieces two pounds of shin of beef, two ounces of lean raw ham,
and two pounds of knuckle of veal, and put them into a saucepan or stockpot. Put
four ounces of dried turtle into a bowl of cold water, and allow it to soak for forty-
eight hours, changing the water three or four times; then put it into a saucepan of
water and simmer very gently for about twenty-four hours. Place the turtle in the
saucepan with the other meat, pour in the liquor in which it simmered; this should be
sufficient to make the soup; bring it gently to the boil, skim as required, add two or
three onions, one carrot, half a head of celery, one turnip, all cut up into pieces, a
sprig each of thyme and marjoram, one teacupful each of basil and peppercorns, a
blade of mace, six or eight cloves, and cayenne pepper and salt to taste. Boil or
simmer gently for eight hours, take out the pieces of turtle, pass the liquor through
a fine sieve into another saucepan, allow it to get cold, skim off all the fat, add the
whites and shells of three eggs beaten slightly, to clarify, boil up once more, remove
SOUPS. 43
the pan to the side of the fire and allow it to stand there for thirty minutes, by which
time it should be quite clear. Skim well, strain the liquor through a napkin or very
fine sieve into another saucepan, add the turtle, which should have been pressed and
cut into convenient-sized pieces, squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, salt to taste,
boil up once more, turn the whole into a soup tureen and serve. A little caramel
may be added should the soup not be dark enough. A wineglassful of Madeira is
considered a great improvement.
Mock Turtle, French Style. .
Select a fine fresh calf's head with the skin on, wash it well in warm water, and
when well cleared of blood boil it for two hours; then take it up and allow it to get
cold. Then cut off in one inch square pieces the fat parts of the head which adhere
to the skin, and wash them well in several waters. Pour two quarts of good beef
stock slightly seasoned with salt, cayenne and truffles and mushrooms, into the soup
pot, add five of six onions, five carrots and five turnips, all cut into slices, a head of
celery cut small, two or three shallots, a bunch of sweet herbs, a bunch of parsley,
three bay leaves, half a dozen cloves, half a dozen allspice, three blades of mace, two
slices of lean ham chopped small, three or four tablespoonfuls of tarragon vinegar,
and one tablespoonful of Worcestershire sauce; let the whole simmer for two hours
and then strain through a fine sieve. Put in it the pieces of calf's head, boil it up,
and pour it into the tureen together with a little strained lemon juice, two tablespoon-
fuls of white wine, and one tablespoonful of brandy. Serve cayenne and thin slices
of lemon with it.
Preserved Green Turtle Soup.
Choose a medium-sized turtle, cut off the head and allow it to bleed for twelve
or fourteen hours. Remove the bones by opening the sides, cut the carcass into
pieces, and blanch them for three minutes in boiling water. Lift off the top shell and
place it in a saucepan, covering it with white broth, a handful of whole peppers, a
dozen or so of cloves, half a bunch of thyme, and six bay leaves (all the above spices
and herbs being tied up in a piece of cloth). Add a handful of salt, and cook for
about an hour. Drain, remove the bones, and cut the flesh in dice. Allow the broth
to be reduced to three-fourths its quantity, then put in the white lean meat, allowing
it to cook for ten minutes, and then add the green part of the turtle. Fill some
medium-sized vessels with this, and when cold pour hot lard over the tops. A wine-
glassful or so of Madeira wine may be added to the broth if desired. '"\ y
Turtle Soup Stock.
Prepare and cut up a turtle. Put the pieces of shell in a saucepan over the fire
with sufficient boiling water to cover them, and boil for two or three hours, or until
the outer edges of the shell are soft. As the water boils away add more, always
44 SOUPS.
keeping the shells entirely covered. Cut the soft parts of the shells into pieces about
one-half inch square, place them in an earthenware bowl, cover over with a wet
napkin, and keep in a cool place until wanted. Place the hard parts, of the shells
again into water in which it was boiled, put in also one-eighth of the first weight of
the turtle of beef bones, and one-sixteenth of the weight of veal bones, or of calf's
feet and head as directed for soup, skinning the calf's head. On the top of these in-
gredients lay the neck and fins of the turtle, and the cushions or rounded muscles at
top of the turtle fins, unless part of the latter is to be reserved raw for broiling as
steaks ; add enough water to cover all, together with two tablespoonfuls of salt, and
allow all to boil gently for two hours or more, or until the bones of the fins separate
easily from the flesh. Remove any scum which may rise, and keep the soup kettle
closely covered. When the fins and cushions are tender, take them out of the stock,
separate the flesh from the bones, keeping it in good sized pieces, and put it aside, in
a cool place until wanted, in an earthenware vessel covered with a wet cloth. Return
the bones to the stock, add to it the proportions usually employed for soup stock, of
carrots, turnips, onions, parsley, sweet herbs, whole cloves, mace and peppercorns,
and boil gently for five or six hours, keeping the pan closely covered. After the
liver, legs, fat and intestines have been soaked in cold water boil them in the stock,
the intestines being turned outward like the reversed finger of a glove, and well
washed and scraped. When the stock is boiled it should be strained through a
folded towel, laid in a colander placed over a large earthenware bowl, until clear.
All those parts of the turtle which have been cooked and covered with wet cloths
or napkins should now be placed in the bowls and covered with the strained turtle
stock ; all the stock remaining should be saved for soup. Most turtle cooks advise
leaving out the intestines, chiefly because they are more trouble to prepare than they
are worth.
Vegetable Soup.
Chop finely sufficient onion, carrot and celery in equal proportions to fill five
breakfast cups, also one teacupful each of turnip, cabbage and parsnip. The cabbage,
parsnip and onion should have been partially boiled for five minutes and then well
drained. Put all the vegetables into a saucepan, pour in one quart of stock and one
quart of boiling water and boil gently until tender ; then put in with them one break-
"ast cupful of tomatoes, one tablespoonful of chopped parsley, one teaspoonful each
of salt and sugar and one-half teaspoonful of pepper. Turn the soup into a tureen
and serve.
Vermicelli Soup.
Put from three to four pounds of knuckle of veal, one and one-half pounds of
scrag of mutton and one-half pound of ham, all cut up into small pieces, into
a saucepan with one-fourth pound of butter, and an onion stuck with one or two
cloves, and fry them over the fire for ten minutes. Put in with the meat a bunch of
SOUPS. 45
sweet herbs, one anchovy, two carrots, three or four blades of mace and four heads
of celery. Place the lid on the saucepan and stand it over the fire until all the gravy
has been extracted from the meat. Drain the gravy into a basin, pour four quarts of
water over the meat and boil slowly until reduced to three pints. Strain the soup into
another saucepan, add one-fourth pound of vermicelli, a head of celery cut into small
pieces and a small quantity of cayenne pepper and salt. Put a French roll into a soup
tureen, pour a small quantity of the soup on it, let it soak for a few minutes, then
pour in the remainder of the soup and serve.
Vermicelli, -Queen Style.
Blanch the vermicelli in boiling water, them drain it ; put it into a saucepan
with rich broth, season to taste and let it boil gently until cooked. Beat well the
yolks of eight eggs and mix a small quantity of cream with them ; pour them into the
soup and stir them by the side of the fire for a few minutes, but do not allow them to
boil. Turn the vermicelli into a tureen and serve it with a plate of sippets of toast.
Vermicelli Soup with Tomato Puree.
Prepare three quarts of fish stock, as for thick soup ; when boiling move it to
the side of the fire and let it simmer for half an hour. Make one and one-half pints
of fresh tomato puree. Skim the fat off the soup, put in a bunch of parsley and
sweet herbs and the tomato puree, then allow it to simmer for twenty minutes
longer. Boil gently in salted water one-half pound of vermicelli. Strain the soup,
put in the vermicelli, skim off all the fat and boil up again. Turn the soup into a
tureen, and serve.
White Soup.
Put six pounds of lean gravy beef into a saucepan with one-half gallon of water
and stew it gently until all the goodness is extracted, then take the beef out. Put
into the saucepan with the liquor six pounds of knuckle of veal, one-fourth pound of
ham, four onions and four heads of celery, all cut into pieces, a few peppercorns
and a bunch of sweet herbs. Stew all these gently for seven or eight hours, skim-
ming off all the fat as it rises to the top. Mix with the crumb of two French rolls
two ounces of blanched and pounded sweet almonds, put them into a saucepan with
one pint of cream and a little stock, boil for ten minutes, then pass them through a
silk sieve, using a wooden spoon in the process. Mix the cream and almonds with
the soup, then turn it into a tureen and serve.
Windsor Soup.
Boil three calf's feet for one hour in two quarts of broth and one quart of
water ; when done and cold, cut them into pieces, moisten with three or four pints of
their own broth, adding a garnished bunch of parsley, one-half wineglassful of
46 SOUPS.
Madeira wine, one-half tablespoonful of salt, and a little cayenne pepper. Boil again
for ten minutes, then strain through a fine sieve ; darken the soup with a little caramel
browning, and when serving add twelve crayfish quenelles.
Wine Soup.
Put the yolks of twelve eggs and the whites of six into an enameled saucepan
and beat them thoroughly, pour in one and one-half breakfast cupfuls of water, add
six ounces of loaf sugar, the grated yellow rind and strained juice of a large lemon,
and one and one-half pints of white wine. Whisk the soup over a gentle fire till
frothed and on the point of boiling, then move it off immediately, turn it into a soup
tureen and serve with a plate of small sponge cakes or fancy biscuits. The soup may
be served as soon as ready, as the froth will soon go down.
Soup with Noques.
Put four ounces of butter into a stewpan to melt, add four or five ounces of flour
and stir it over the fire until nicely browned. Pour in gradually with the flour three
quarts of rich broth, continue stirring over the fire until the broth boils, then move
the stewpan slightly to the side of the fire. Warm one-half pound of butter in a basin
and work it with a spoon until creamy, then mix with it, one at a time, the yolks of
five eggs and the whites of two. Beat the butter and eggs until light and frothy,
then sift in slowly six ounces of flour, work the whole to a smooth paste, season it
with nutmeg and salt and add the whipped whites of two more eggs. Try the consis-
tency of the above mixture by poaching a small quantity of it in boiling water, stir in a
little flour, if too light, and if too thick then stir in a little butter. Divide the mixture
into small equal portions and shape them into round balls. Drop the noques into a
saucepan of boiling salted water, give them one boil up, then move the pan to the side
of the fire and boil again until firm. Beat the yolks of four eggs with a little cream,
skim the, fat off the soup, put in the beaten eggs and stir them by the fire till thick.
The soup should not boil after the eggs are added. Drain the noques, put them into a
soup tureen, strain the soup over them through a fine hair sieve and serve at once.
Soup Without Meat.
Cut four large onions into slices, put them in a saucepan with one-half pound of
butter and toss over the fire for a few minutes. Put in with the onions some celery
cut into small pieces, a bunch of chopped parsley and some finely-shredded cabbage
lettuces; stir these ingredients over the fire for fifteen minutes, then put in one break-
fast cupful of crushed dry biscuits and two quarts of boiling milk and water mixed in
equal quantities. Season the soup to taste with salt and pepper and let it simmer by
the side of the fire for an hour. Beat two eggs well and stir them in the soup when
taken from the fire. Serve with a plateful of sippets of toast.
Fish.
Anchovies.
These delicious little seafish come principally from the Mediterranean ; those
esteemed most highly come from Gorgona. These fish are also found in small shoals
along the coast of Great Britain, but there are no specific fisheries for them. They
are caught at night by nets, the fish being attracted by lights attached to the boats.
To preserve them for exportation, the heads are cut off and the bodies cleaned.
They are then placed in brine, packed in barrels and afterwards put up in bottles for
the market. Dutch anchovies may be known by their having the scales removed ;
and the French anchovies by their larger size ; and both by the pale tint of their
flesh. This peculiar coloring is sometimes counterfeited by artificial means in sprats
or sardines. It would be well to note that the color of the pickle of the best fish
on being filtered, is of a clear pink, without sediment ; whereas the inferior sorts are
generally turbid and red only when stirred, with also a heavy red sediment.
To Serve Anchovies.
They must be thoroughly cleaned, boned and trimmed. To open, they should
be soaked in cold water for a couple of hours, taken out and dried on a cloth, and the
backs divided by the points of the two thumbs, rather than with a knife, which should
never touch them unless it is electro-plated or of silver. Lay the halves neatly on a
dish, and garnish with finely chopped white of egg and parsley ; pour salad oil over all.
Stuffed Anchovies.
Split open some anchovies, wash them well in white wine and bone them. Mince
a little cooked fish of any kind, place in a basin with very fine breadcrumbs, and
make it into a paste by adding yolk of eggs. Stuff the anchovies with this mixture,
dip into frying batter, plunge into a fryingpan of boiling fat and fry to a light color.
Take out when done, drain and arrange on the dish, and serve with a garnish of fried
parsley.
Anchovies with Olives.
Thoroughly wash and cut off the fillets of some anchovies, and chop them up
very fine with a little parsley and onion ; put the whole into a mortar and pound it
well, adding a little cayenne for seasoning. Cut a number of Spanish olives in halves,
take out the stones, and fill them with the pounded anchovy mixture. In the mean-
47
48 . FISH.
time cut some small rounds of bread about an inch in thickness and an inch and a
half in diameter, scrape out a little from the center of each, put them into a frying-
pan with butter, and fry to a nice light golden color ; then take out and drain, and
arrange on a napkin spread over a dish ; put an olive in each, serve with a little
mayonnaise sauce poured over and around the foot of the croutons of fried bread.
Baked Bass, Plain.
Scale, wash and thoroughly clean a bass, leaving the head intact, if to be sent
to table whole ; then make a stuffing of two cupfuls of breadcrumbs, one teacupful
of butter, the rind of a quarter of a lemon minced fine, and two or three sprigs of
parsley, green thyme and marjoram. Season this mixture with pepper and salt.
Beat up a couple of eggs, a very little water, and mix the stuffing with it. Fill into
the fish and sew up when stuffed. Score both sides with a sharp knife by cutting
down to the bone, and put a slice of salt pork, cut thin, into each incision ; then bake
in a pan and baste with stock and seasoning. Place a little tomato puree or tomato
sauce into the pan with the gravy, after removing the fish, and allow it to come to
a boil ; then skim and strain and serve in a tureen with the fish. Care should be
taken not to break the fish when transferring it from the pan to the dish. Some con-
sider a glass of white wine added to each half pint of sauce an improvement.
Boiled Bass.
Dress a bass, wash well and drain it, and place in a saucepan of warm water,
salted, and set over the fire. When the water boils remove to one side, and simmer
gently for twenty minutes, by which time the fish should be quite done. Let it re-
main in the liquor until wanted, then take out, drain and place on a napkin spread
over a dish, garnish with boiled potatoes and sprigs of parsley and serve.
Broiled Bass.
Clean a bass, split it lengthwise in halves, cutting each half again into two or
three pieces ; sprinkle over with flour and place on a gridiron over a slow fire, broil-
ing them very gently, brush over continually with butter to prevent burning. When
of a light brown color, place the pieces of fish on a napkin spread over a dish and
serve.
Fried Bass with Bacon.
Wash, scale and carefully clean the bass, season well with pepper and salt, roll
them in flour and let them lie in it until ready to be co.oked, then drop into a pan of
very hot lard and fry until nicely browned. Then fry in a separate pan four slices of
streaky bacon ; one piece for each piece of the fish and lay the slices of bacon one
on each piece of fish. Garnish with parsley and serve with mashed potatoes.
FISH. 49
Fried Black Bass.
Scale and clean the requisite number of black bass, roll well in flour, put in a fry-
ingpan with hot fat to about half their height and fry until done. Place on a dish,
garnish with potatoes, slices of lemon, parsley, and serve.
Broiled Bloaters.
Scrape and clean enough bloaters and wipe dry on a towel ; split down the belly
from head to tail and lay them flat upon a buttered gridiron, over a clear fire, broiling
for about six minutes, turning so as to cook both sides. When they are done, place
them on a dish with a little butter over them and serve.
Baked Bluefish, Italian Style.
Score and scale the requisite amount of bluefish and place it in a buttered pan
with half a wineglassful of white wine, three tablespoonfuls of mushroom liquor, and
a little very finely chopped onion, six chopped mushrooms, and season with salt and
pepper ; cover the dish with buttered paper and cook in a moderate oven for fifteen
minutes, then remove and lay on a dish. Place the liquor in a stewpan, add a gill of
Spanish sauce, with one wineglassful of white wine, and reduce for two minutes. Pour
the sauce over the fish, with a little finely chopped parsley, and serve, with fancy
croutons of bread.
Bouillabaisse.
Place a sufficient quantity of mixed fish, such as soles, whiting, gurnet and flound-
ers into a saucepan, having cut them into pieces, and add some sliced onions, one or
two sliced carrots, three shallots, two unpicked cloves of garlic, a bunch of thyme and
parsley, five or six cloves, two bay-leaves, half a teaspoonful of capsicum, a little olive
oil, and salt and pepper to taste. Pour into the above mixture a couple of quarts of
water and boil gently for half an hour, the lid being placed on the pan. When suffi-
ciently cooked drain the fish and arrange on a hot dish. Then mix a teaspoonful of
saffron with the soup and pass through a pointed strainer into a soup-tureen. Serve
the soup with the fish and a plate of croutons of fried bread or sippets of toast.
Baked Carp.
Clean a carp and place it in a bowl of salted cold water and vinegar to let it dis-
gorge. Remove, drain and dry it, stuff with well-seasoned forcemeat, sew up the belly,
brush it with egg, dredge breadcrumbs over and put on a few small lumps of butter
here and there. Place the fish in a deep earthenware dish with two onions cut in
slices and a few sweet herbs, pour over one breakfast cupful each of sweet wine and
stock, mixing it with one teaspoonful of anchovy sauce or essence, put the dish in a
50 FISH.
moderate oven and bake for an hour. Dress the carp carefully on a dish and keep
it hot, then strain the liquor into a saucepan, add a lump of butter rolled in flour to
thicken and stir continually over the fire until it is done ; then mix in half a teaspoon-
ful of sugar, the juice of a lemon and a seasoning of salt and pepper. Pour this into
a sauceboat and serve.
Baked Carp, -Mariniere.
Take a carp weighing from ten to twelve pounds, scale, draw it, and cut a little
off the fins and fill the inside with forcemeat. Remove a little of the skin from the
back, leaving the flesh exposed, and lard this with fat bacon ; then truss the head ;
place the fish on a drainer in a long fishkettle, season it and fill the kettle to about
half the height of the fish with court bouillon and white wine in the proportion of one
quart of the former to one-half pint of the latter. Place the kettle on the fire and let
the liquid boil for five minutes; then remove the carp and put it in a moderate oven
to bake for about an hour and a half, basting it often. When done, take it out,
drain, and pour its stock through a sieve, putting the fish back into the kettle again
to keep hot. Prepare a little brown sauce with the stock, and when clarified and
strained, put it into a flat stewpan with a handful of mushroom trimmings ; pour in a
wineglassful of white wine and reduce ; then pass it through a sieve, adding a quarter
of a pound of good butter. Place the carp on an oval dish and garnish it on both
sides with a bunch of quenelles of whitings, one of mushrooms and one of blanched
olives ; glaze the larding with a paste-brush and pour a little sauce over the other
parts of the fish and a little at the bottom of the dish. Put the soft roes into the
balance of the sauce and serve in a sauceboat.
Boiled Carp.
Clean and wash one or two carp, place them in a saucepan, pour over sufficient
rich beef gravy to cover, and add a bunch of sweet herbs, an onion, four cloves, and
salt to the taste. Place the saucepan on a moderate fire and cook gently for an hour
or until the fish is done. Pour into a saucepan a pint of strong beef gravy, with two
wineglassfuls of white wine; allow this to get hot, and add the strained juice of half
a lemon. Place the carp on a dish, pour over the hot lemon-flavored liquor and serve
promptly.
Pickled Carp.
After cleaning a carp make as small an opening as possible, tie up the head, put
the fish in a fish kettle, pour over boiling vinegar, and after a few minutes add a tum-
blerful of red wine, and a seasoning of two carrots and three onions cut into slices,
and a small quantity each of sage, thyme, laurel leaves, parsley, cloves and garlic, and
then set the kettle on the fire and allow it to simmer gently for an hour. Let the fish
remain in this until it is quite cold, when it will be ready to serve.
FISH. 51
Stewed Carp.
Take a large carp, cut out the gills, but do not remove the tongue; then make
as small an opening in the under edge as possible in order to open it, and wash it out
thoroughly. Boil one-half pint of vinegar, and when it is boiling pour it over the fish
that the scales may drop off easily. Wrap the carp in a cloth and stew it in a court
bouillon. When done drain it and serve with capers and anchovy sauce, or without
sauce after soup.
Catfish Stewed with Tomatoes.
Slice the fish, each weighing about two ounces, and fry these with a very little
butter or dripping. When they are partly browned and about half cooked, add one
breakfast cupful of water, one or two minced green onions, and a pod of red pepper.
Strain a can of tomatoes over a colander on to the fish, and cook together for half an
hour, Serve with pieces of dry toast.
Baked Codfish.
Take a fresh cod and prepare it by tying up the head with string and filling the
inside with maitre d'hotel butter, put the fish belly downward on a buttered drainer
in a fish kettle, and pour over it a mixture made as follows: Melt two pounds of
butter in a saucepan, add three quarts of chopped mushrooms, two blanched and
chopped shallots, four tablespoonfuls of chopped parsley, the juice of two lemons, a
crushed clove of garlic, and season to taste ; all of these being partly cooked before
used. Pour over the fish a pint and a half of white wine, and bring it quickly to a
boil, then let cook gently for an hour and a half, basting the fish every ten minutes
with the liquor. When the flesh is firm put the fish on a dish and pour over it half
the fish stock, putting the rest in a sauce-boat. Any fish sauce may accompany it.
Baked Codfish with Cream.
Take the tail of a cod, clean it, and boil in salted water with a little parsley.
When it is done wipe and open down the back, remove the bones and break the meat
into pieces. Place these pieces in layers, and between each one a little bechamel
sauce slightly reduced with cream, also a piece of butter and nutmeg. Sprinkle a
few breadcrumbs on top and brown it.
Codfish Balls.
Take the bone from a piece of fish, make it weigh six ounces, soak in cold
water, put in a saucepan and boil for half an hour. Pound it to a pulp, being careful
that all the bones are removed. Boil a half pound of potatoes and when done mash
them up with the fish, adding a tablespoonful of melted butter and one egg. Make
this into balls and fry to a light brown.
52 FISH.
Boiled Codfish with Cream Sauce.
Take out the inside of a cod by the white skin of the belly, taking care to remove
all blood. Place the fish in a kettle with salted cold water and boil fast at first and
then slowly. When done take out and skin. Pour over it sauce made as follows:
A quarter pound of butter put in a stew pan with one tablespoonful of flour, moisten
with a pint of cream, add a little salt and pepper and a teaspoonful of essence of
anchovies; place the pan on the fire, let thicken but not boil.
Boiled Codfish with Hollandaise Sauce.
Take the gills from a cod, also the entrails where the gills form a hole, chop off
the fins and sprinkle over the fish a little salt, also putting some inside, then place in
a cold place and let it remain for a few hours. Take it up, wash off the salt, tie the
head with string, put it in a bowl of water and milk and let it disgorge for about
three-quarters of an hour. Take it out and drain, put belly downward on a drainer
in a fish kettle with enough cold salted water to cover it, add three cupfuls of milk
and boil slowly until the cut begins to open.
Cleaning Codfish.
It is usual first to remove the gills by cutting their connection with the rest of
the head and shoulders and pulling them out. Lay the fish on his back, open the
belly by cutting down the center, remove the inside, carefully preserving the liver and
roe, and leaving the sounds uninjured. If the fish is to be cooked whole it should be
" scored " to the bone transversely at intervals of two inches ; but if it is to be cooked
in pieces, cut it in slices three inches thick and soak the fish in water for a quarter of
an hour. Cod is crimped by being cut up and notched with a knife while partly alive;
but some cooks object to this. The following recipes for cooking cod are carefully
selected as likely to give sufficient variety to suit all tastes and to all purposes. The
fish is usually divided, by the fishmonger, into " head and shoulders," " middle " and
"tail;" but although preference may be given to the middle cut, the tail is quite as
good, although not so fleshy, and the head yields in quantity the gelatine that makes
excellent soup. Codlings are for the most part amenable to the same treatment.
Fillets of Codfish, Hollandaise.
Take any number of fillets of cod, put in a buttered stewpan, add one gill of
stock, season, sprinkle a little fine parsley over, and set in the oven, or on the stove,
with a buttered paper over. When done put them upon a dish, bordered with mashed
potatoes.
Fried Cod.
Cut a cod in slices, dust with pepper and salt and let remain for two hours.
Wipe the slices dry, dip in yolk of egg and then in breadcrumbs, mix with flour, season
FISH. 53
and put in pan with plenty of fat and fry quickly. The tail is best for frying, and
after removing the skin and bones, cut in slices and press with a cutlet bat.
Fried Codfish, Maitre d' Hotel.
Trim a few fillets of cod and dip them in flour. Rub some breadcrumbs through
a wire sieve, whisk two whole eggs, season, and dip the fillets in the eggs, roll in the
breadcrumbs and fry to a light brown. Serve with maitre d'hotel sauce in a boat.
Hashed Codfish.
Take a cupful of cooked cod, pick in pieces and soak in cold water for twelve
hours. Boil some potatoes and add them to the finely chopped fish, a little at a time,
put in a pan and stir. Heat some butter, put the hash in it and let it cook gently.
Matelote of Codfish.
Remove the head and bones of a fish, fill the insides with stuffings made from
half a pint of oysters, one pint of breadcrumbs, a little pepper, a little salt, two table-
spoonfuls of butter, one egg, half an onion and half a tablespoonful of chopped
parsley. Take six slices of bacon, put three on the bottom and three on the top of
the fish and bake for an hour, basting with butter and gravy made from the bones
boiled in water.
Stewed Codfish.
Take a piece of boiled fish, remove the skin and bones, and pick into flakes ;
put these into a stew pan with a little butter, pepper, salt, minced parsley, cayenne,
and the juice of a lemon. Put on the fire, and when the contents of the pan are
quite hot the fish is quite ready to serve.
Baked Cod's Head.
Trim and wash well the head of a cod, fill the gills with veal stuffing, put the
head in a baking dish, season with pepper and salt, also add a little parsley ; moisten
with a pint of sherry and a little catsup, put a buttered paper over and set in the
oven to bake. The fish must be well basted while baking, and a pint of stock may
be added to keep it moist. When the head is nearly done sprinkle it over with fine
raspings of bread, and when it is quite done put it upon a dish. Add two gills of
brown sauce to the liquor in the baking pan, strain in a stewpan, and put in a little
essence of anchovy, two ounces of butter and a little lemon juice ; boil the sauce for
a few minutes, pour on the cod and serve.
54 FISH.
Salted Cod, Biscayan Style.
Bone two pounds of cod and soak in cold water for a day, place in a saucepan
with fresh water and simmer till boiling, then add fresh water and let boil again ;
take out and scale. Fry two chopped onions and one green pepper in a gill of oil
for five minutes, add a sliced tomato, one clove of bruised garlic and one chili pep-
per. Moisten these with three pints of broth, add a small bunch of parsley, three
tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce and one pint of peeled potatoes, and cook for forty
minutes ; then add the cod and boil again for five minutes.
Boiled Salted Cod.
Steep two pounds of salted cod and put in tepid water for six hours; then take it
out and place it for the same length of time in cold water, changing about every half
hour. Put the fish in a gallon saucepan filled with water, and when it boils put on the
side and let simmer for five minutes.
Boiled Salted Cod with Egg Sauce.
Chop fine one pound of freshly-salted cod that has been soaked, boiled, and
allowed to get cold. Mix one teaspoonful of corn meal with one cupful of milk, and
stir on the fire till it thickens, then add half a pound of mashed potatoes rubbed
through a sieve, two ounces of butter, one dessertspoonful of chopped parsley, two
beaten eggs and pepper to taste.
(2.) Boil two eggs for ten minutes, cut them into large dice, and put in one
pint of melted butter sauce. When the fish is done pour this over it and serve.
Salted Cod with Brown Butter.
Soak the fish in cold water for two days, then scrape off the scales, clean and
wash thoroughly, and place over a slow fire until boiling. Move the kettle to the
side of the fire, skim off the scum that may have risen to the top, and boil gently for
ten minutes. Put a little butter in a fryingpan and place over the fire, when it is
hot put in a few sprigs of parsley and fry until brown. Pour the butter and parsley
over the fish and serve hot.
Boiled Cod's Tongues with Egg Sauce.
Place the tongues in warm water and leave for a day and a half, changing the
water once. Put a pan of water on the fire, and when it boils put in the tongues and
boil them for ten minutes. Place a piece of toast on a dish, brush the tongues over
with egg sauce, put them on the toast and serve.
FISH. 55
. i
Fried Cod's Tongues.
Wash eighteen to twenty tongues, dip in cold milk, and roll one by one in flour.
Put one teacupful of clarified butter in a fryingpan, lay in the tongues, keeping them
separate and cook for three minutes; then turn on the other side and cook for three
minutes longer. Serve with one gill of tomato sauce in a sauceboat.
Cod Tongues, Poulette Style.
Put eighteen tongues, blanched, in a saucepan, add a pint of Dutch sauce, half a
gill of the stock in which they were blanched, and one teaspoonful of chopped pars-
ley, and beat for five minutes without boiling. Put in a deep dish, sprinkle with pars-
ley and serve.
Cod's Tongues with Black Butter Sauce.
Blanch eighteen cod's tongues, and put in a saucepan with half a gill of the
liquor that they were blanched in, heat, but do not boil. Drain, dress on a hot dish
and pour over one pint of black butter sauce.
Braised Eel, Royal Style.
After skinning and cleaning, cut an eel into two-inch pieces, sprinkle with salt
and let them remain for an hour or so. Plunge into a bowl of cold water for ten
minutes, dry them, put in a well-buttered saucepan and season with grated nutmeg,
salt and pepper, and over them place slices of lemons and shallots, also a little
scraped parsley root and a few whole white peppers. Set the saucepan over a slow
fire with hot ashes on the lid and braise until the fish is done. Place the pieces of
eel on a dish; add to the saucepan one breakfast cupful of stock and boil for a few
minutes and thicken with a white roux; let this reduce slightly; remove the pan from
the fire, add a liaison of the yolks of three eggs, boil up once more, strain into a
saucepan containing double its quantity of German sauce, boil up again, pour around
the eel, and serve.
Brochettes of Eels.
Cut two or three eels in slices about one inch in thickness, after skinning and
cleaning; lay them in a dish, dust over with salt, pepper and a little finely chopped
parsley and sweet herbs and let them stand for two or three hours. Have in readi-
ness some truffles parboiled in white wine and cut into slices; put the pieces of eels
on attelettes or skewers with pieces of truffle between; brush the whole over with
yolk of egg, dip into sifted breadcrumbs, put them into a fryingpan of boiling fat
and fry for about twenty minutes. When done put them on a dish without remov-
ing the skewers and serve.
56 FISH.
Broiled Eels.
Skin and clean a good-sized eel; remove the backbone and cut the eel into four
or five pieces. Dip each piece first into egg and then into breadcrumbs mixed with
grated rind of lemon, nutmeg, parsley, sweet herbs, pepper and salt. Put the pieces
of fish on a greased gridiron with the skin side of the fish downward, over a clear
fire, and broil them, turning over when done on one side. Put on a hot dish, garnish
with parsley and horseradish set alternately, and serve with tartar or anchovy sauce
in a sauceboat.
Fricassee of Eel.
Skin and clean some eels and cut off their heads ; chop them up into small pieces
and put into a fryingpan with sufficient white wine and water in equal parts to cover ;
season with mace, pepper, nutmeg, cloves, sweet herbs, allspice and salt according to
taste. Set the pan over a good fire and boil until the eels are quite tender, then put
them on a dish. Pound in a mortar two anchovies and add them to the liquor with a
little butter and yolks of eggs to thicken. Pour this over the fish, and serve.
Fried Eels.
Cut a large eel into thick slices, after skinning and cleaning ; put the pieces into
a basin with vinegar, the peel from two or three lemons, and a little each of salt and
pepper, and let them soak for a day or so ; take them out, drain, dip into batter,
plunge into a fryingpan of boiling fat and fry. When done, drain, place on a napkin
on a dish, and serve with a sauceboatful of reduced stock mixed with a little lemon
juice and a pounded, boned anchovy.
Matelote of Eels.
Skin two large eels, cut them into pieces, without opening the belly, thrust a
knife blade into each piece, and twist it around to remove the inside. Wash them
well ; put into a saucepan with one breakfast cupful of stock and half a pint of claret,
adding a clove of garlic, a whole pepper, a sliced onion, a bay leaf, thyme, cloves,
parsley and a little salt, and boil gently until done. Take out the pieces of fish,
strain the liquor and add a liquorglassful of brandy to it. Put a piece of butter into
a saucepan, stir in one tablespoonful of flour to thicken, add it to the sauce and boil.
Place croutons of fried bread in a circle on a dish ; arrange the fish in the center, pour
the sauce over and serve.
Matelote of Eels, Normandy Style.
Cut a pound and a half of eels into pieces, put them in a saucepan with a table-
spoonful of butter and fry for two minutes, add a wineglassful of white wine, three
FISH. 57
tablespoonfuls of mushroom catsup, season well with salt, pepper and nutmeg and
cook for ten minutes longer; add half a pint of veloute sauce, six mushrooms, twelve
blanched oysters, six fish quenelles, and six small cooked crayfish tails and continue
cooking for five minutes. Beat in the yolks of three eggs when ready to serve, then
remove the pan from the fire and serve with a garnish of croutons of fried bread.
Stewed Eels, American Style.
Take three pounds of cleaned, skinned eels, having all the fat removed from the
insides, cut them into pieces about two inches long, shake a little pepper and salt
over and place in a jar with a quarter of a pound of butter. Chop an onion and scat-
ter over the eels, and one dessertspoonful of chopped parsley. Cover the jar closely,
stand it over the fire in a saucepan of cold water, allow it slowly to come to a boil
and cook until tender. This will take about an hour and a half from the time the
water boils. Serve in a deep dish.
Stewed Eels, Bordelaise Style.
Skin and clean an eel, split it open and put in a stewpan with a slice of onion,
two or three sprigs of parsley and a pinch of salt and pepper. Cover with Madeira
wine and simmer until the eel is done. Take it out and press between two plates
until cold, strain and reduce the liquor, add a little fish glaze and strain it through a
conical strainer into a bain-marie pan, cut the eel into fillets, put these with a little of
the sauce into a stewpan over a moderate fire and heat the eel. Arrange them in a
circle on a dish and garnish the center with glazed and blanched small onions. Mix
a little anchovy butter and a pinch of cayenne with matelote sauce. Pour over the
eels and serve.
Stewed Eels, Poulette Style.
Cut some cleaned eel in two-inch pieces and stew them in a marinade or stock.
Make a little white roux, and mix a little broth with it; add a few green onions, a
bunch of parsley, one small white onion, five or six mushrooms, and a little glaze,
seasoning with pepper and salt, and boil for twenty minutes, stirring continually.
Take out the parsley and onions, and add a little finely chopped parsley and the juice
of one lemon. Remove the eels, drain, dish, pour over the sauce, and serve.
Attelettes of Fish.
Cut a slice of any fish to a little more than half an inch thick, remove the skin,
and divide the slice in two, having removed the bone. Cut the slices into very thin
strips, forming the attelettes, salt, dip them in oil, roll in Hour, and plunge them into
hot fat to fry. As soon as the flesh is firm, take them out with a skimmer, drain,
season them with salt, and dish up with a little fried parsley.
Note that this process is simply one of frying strips of flesh, and may therefore
58 FISH.
be applied equally well to almost any kind of fish flesh which may be convenient.
The hot fat must be hotter than boiling water, and a thick batter may be used instead
of oil and flour. Anchovy sauce goes well with these fish attelettes.
For this kind of dish it is well to have small silver skewers, about four inches
long and of the thickness of a packing needle, with a ring or fancy design on the top,
the persons eating what is served on them, taking the head of the skewer with the
thumb and fingers of the left hand and picking it off with a fork.
Curried Fish.
Peel and cut two medium-sized onions into thin slices and put in a stewpan with
a small lump of butter and fry until lightly browned. Pour over them some white
stock, judging the quantity by that of the fish ; add one ounce of butter and a suf-
ficient quantity of curry powder ; season with salt, lemon juice, a little sugar and a
small quantity of cayenne. Boil the stock for fifteen or twenty minutes, then strain
it into a clean stewpan, skim and put in the fish, having carefully prepared it, and
boil gently, but without breaking it. Wash and boil about half a pound of rice in
water ; when cooked it should be dry and have the grains unbroken. Turn the
curry out on to a hot dish, garnish with croutons of fried bread or sippets of toast,
and serve very hot, with the rice separate.
Fish Cutlets.
Season one pint of any kind of cold cooked fish with salt, pepper and cayenne,
and make it into paste with a little thick cream sauce, made quite hot. Put the paste
on a dish to about half an inch in thickness, and when it is cold form it into the
shapes of cutlets. Put them first into bread or cracker crumbs, then into egg and
again into crumbs. Fry in a fryingpan of hot fat until brown. If lobster is used,
insert a small claw at the end of each cutlet, and for other kinds of fish use a small
piece of thick bone. Drain off the fat and serve.
Fish Fritters.
Pick free from all bones a quantity of any kind of cold cooked fish and pound it
in a mortar; take a small onion, peel and pound it with the fish; season to taste with
salt and pepper, and add an equal bulk of mashed potatoes, mix well together and
make all into a paste with beaten egg. Spread the paste out on a board, cut it into
small pieces about three inches across and fry them in boiling lard to a light brown.
Fold a napkin over a hot dish and pile the fritters on it. Garnish with fried parsley
and serve with any kind of fish sauce.
Fish, Normandy Style.
Melt in a bakingdish five ounces of butter on the stove or in an oven; sift into
it one dessertspoonful of chopped parsley, a very little grated nutmeg, a small quan-
FISH. 59
tity of salt and black pepper, a very little red pepper, and one tablespoonful of mush-
room catsup; add five pounds of any kind of fish without skin or bone and cut in
pieces about four inches long and an inch and a half wide. Pour in three tablespoon-
fuls of brandy and four tablespoonfuls of white wine, fit the cover on the dish, put a
flour and water dough round the edge to keep the steam in and bake in a moderate
oven. Serve very hot.
Pickled Fish.
Cut into slices the required quantity of any kind of fish, dust over well with flour
and put them into a fryingpan with oil to fry. Have in a mortar two or three sprigs
of mint, one fresh capsicum and salt to taste, and pound well together; pour in slowly
two breakfast cupfuls of vinegar, turn the whole into a saucepan and boil for five or
six minutes. Take out the fish and drain it, pour over the hot vinegar. Serve when
quite cold.
Baked Flounders.
Take two flounders, clean and split, and take out all the small bones. Lay the
fish in a buttered dish and strew over some chopped mushrooms, parsley, green onions
and rasped breadcrumbs ; season with salt, pepper and a small quantity of grated nut-
meg. Put a few pieces of butter on the top, and bake. Make a sufficient quantity
of caper sauce, flavoring it with essence of anchovy and the juice of half a lemon.
When cooked, drain the butter from the fish, pour over the sauce, and serve.
Baked Flounders, Italian Style.
Clean and prepare the fish as for boiling ; put it into an oval-shaped bakingpan
with one ounce of soft butter spread over it ; pour over half a pint of white wine, and
season with salt and pepper ; then add three quarters of a pint of Italian sauce and
sprinkle the top thickly with bread raspings. Place the pan on top of the fire for
about five minutes to start the boiling, then put it in a moderate oven for a quarter
of an hour. Serve it in the pan in which it was cooked.
Boiled Flounders.
Clean and wash a flounder, make a sharp cut nearly to the bone down the back,
put it into a fishkettle with sufficient water to cover, add half an ounce of saltpetre
and four ounces of salt to every gallon of water and simmer gently on the side of the
fire for six minutes or longer, according to the size of the fish, taking care that it does
not break. Take it out carefully, spread on a napkin and serve with a sauceboatful
of melted butter.
Fricassee of Flounders.
Take one or two flounders, clean and wash thoroughly; remove the fillets care-
fully and dust them over with salt and flour, plunge them into boiling fat and fry.
60 FISH.
Chop finely one dozen oysters, put them with their liquor into a saucepan, pour in a
tumblerful of white wine, add three boned anchovies, and salt, pepper and grated
nutmeg to taste. Let them cook gently for two or three minutes, then put in the
fillets, give the pan a shake, warm all up together, turn the whole out on to a hot dish
and serve with slices of lemon for garnish.
Fried Flounders.
Clean and prepare as for boiling some small fish, score them over the back and
sprinkle with salt and pepper, dip them into milk and cover well with flour; or dip
them in egg and breadcrumbs, put them into a fryingpan of hot fat and fry for four
minutes, then bring the fat to the boil and fry for three minutes longer. Take them
out, drain and dust over with a little salt; garnish with halves of lemon and fried
parsley and serve on a hot dish.
Baked Haddock.
Clean a haddock, remove the eyes, trim it and pass its tail through the cavity of
the eyes, or the tail may be tied to its mouth. Chop finely two ounces of fat bacon
and a little green parsley, mix these with two ounces of breadcrumbs, a little salt and
pepper, a few drops of essence of anchovy, and an egg to make it into a stiff paste.
Stuff the fish with the mixture and sew it up. Put one tablespoonful of flour in a
basin, work into it one tablespoonful of cold water, pour on one breakfast cupful of
boiling water, and mix in one ounce of butter and two tablespoonfuls of essence of
anchovy. Pour this into a baking tin, put the fish on it, place the pan in a moderate
oven and bake for an hour, basting frequently, or until done, without its taking color.
It may be served in the baking tin placed in the dish or taken out and placed on a
dish; but the fish needs to be handled very carefully or it will break to pieces when
moved, thus spoiling its appearance. The sauce can be poured round it. A few
skinned shrimps added to the sauce when it is about half cooked are a great improve-
ment, and the dish may be garnished with crayfish tails.
Boiled Haddock with Lobster Sauce.
Wash the fish, then place it in a fishkettle with boiling water to cover, add one
tablespoonful of salt, and boil gently for about half an hour. Pick out the flesh of a
small lobster and cut it into little pieces; put the coral in a mortar with one ounce of
butter, and pound it. Place three ounces of butter in a small saucepan, with two
tablespoonfuls of flour, and mix together over the fire until well incorporated; then
put in the pounded coral, and season with two tablespoonfuls of lemon juice and a
small quantity of cayenne. Pour in gradually one pint of boiling water, and stir it
over the fire for ten minutes. Strain the sauce, return it to the saucepan, put in the
pieces of lobster, and boil it up once. When cooked drain the fish, being careful not
FISH. 61
to break it; place it on a hot dish, baste with a little of the sauce, and serve the
balance in a sauceboat.
Broiled Haddock.
Clean and wash a fresh haddock, dry it on a cloth, rub it with vinegar, and
sprinkle it with flour; place a well greased gridiron over a clear fire, and broil for
about fifteen minutes, turning frequently. When done place it on a dish, and serve
with shrimp or anchovy sauce.
Fried Fillets of Haddock.
Skin and clean a haddock, cut the flesh into fillets, trimming them into pieces
about six inches long, dip them into well beaten egg and then into sifted bread-
crumbs. Be sure that they are well covered, plunge them into a fryingpan of boiling
fat, and fry to a rich color, turning them over, in order to cook both sides. Take
them out, drain, put them on a cloth spread over a dish, and serve with a sauceboat-
ful of Dutch sauce.
Haddock, Maitre d'Hotel.
Clean a haddock and cut it open at the back on each side of the bone, dust
with salt and pepper, dip it in flour, place on a gridiron over a clear fire and cook for
about twenty minutes, turning carefully. Put two ounces of maitre d'hotel butter
on the back of the fish, place it in the oven to melt the butter, then put the fish on a
dish, pour around two more ounces of butter mixed with six tablespoonfuls of ordi-
nary butter melted in a saucepan over the fire and made quite hot.
Baked Smoked Haddock.
Put the haddock into a pan, pour some boiling water over, take it out, put it
into another pan, mask with a little butter, pepper liberally, and bake in a hot oven
for ten minutes. It must be served while it is quite hot.
Broiled Smoked Haddock.
Brush a fish over with warmed butter, dust with pepper, place it on a gridiron
over the fire and broil until done, or it can be cooked in front of the fire. Serve
while hot.
Fried Smoked Haddock.
Soak a haddock in olive oil for a number of hours, then put it in a fryingpan
with oil and fry until it is done. Pepper well and serve at once.
Baked Halibut.
Take three or four pounds of the fish and remove the dark skin by dipping the
part covered by it into boiling water and scraping. Rub the flesh over with salt and
62 FISH.
pepper, place it in a bakingpan and pour over milk to the depth of about one inch
in the pan. Put the pan in the oven and bake for an hour or more, basting frequently
with the milk. Take out the fish, remove the bone and skin, put it on a dish in its
original shape and serve with egg sauce, cream sauce or plain drawn butter. The dish
may be garnished with slices of hard-boiled eggs, or it may be served with bread-
crumbs sprinkled over and tomato sauce in a tureen.
Boiled Halibut.
Put about two pounds of halibut into a saucepan and cover it with fresh water,
add one sliced onion, half a sliced carrot and a garnished bouquet, season with one
handful of salt and pour over two tablespoonfuls of vinegar. Place the lid on and
cook gently for about five minutes after coming to the boiling point, then remove the
fish, drain well, dress it on a hot dish and serve with anchovy butter spread all over.
Broiled Halibut.
Cut some slices from a halibut, dust over salt and pepper, place them in a dish,
cover with warm butter and leave for half an hour. Roll them in flour and broil over a
very clear fire for twelve or fifteen minutes. Place them on a dish with a garnish of
parsley and slices of lemon and serve. The slices of halibut should be about one
inch thick, and three tablespoonfuls of butter may be used for every pound weight of
fish.
Fried Halibut Steaks.
Cut some steaks from a halibut, place them in a fryingpan with a small quantity
of butter and fry until done. Put them on a dish and serve with Robert sauce poured
round, but not on, the fish.
Broiled Fresh Herrings, Maitre d' Hotel.
Slice the herring down the stomach and take out the insides and the bones; pour
over a little olive oil and sprinkle with chopped parsley, and let remain for an hour.
Put them on a gridiron over the fire and broil until done. Put them on a dish with a
few lumps of cold maitre d'hotel butter and serve.
Broiled Fresh Herring with Mustard Sauce.
Take the required number of herring with soft roes, cut off the heads and clean,
but do not open them; dip them well in salad oil, season with pepper and salt and
leave them for an hour. Arrange the fish on a gridiron and let them stand over a
clear, slow fire and broil for fifteen minutes, turning until they are done. Mix one
teaspoonful of flour and one tablespoonful of mustard with cold water; when smooth
pour in one breakfast cupful of white stock; turn this in a saucepan and stir over the
FISH. 63
fire until thick and it boils, then put in one ounce of butter, one teaspoonful of
chopped parsley and pepper and salt to taste. Put the herrings on a hot dish, and
when the butter is dissolved pour it over the fish and serve.
Matelote of Fresh Herring.
Take some herring, half of which have soft and half hard roes ; gut them through
the gill opening. Cut off the heads and tails and divide each herring lengthwise into
two fillets, removing the bones. Put a small quantity of butter in a fryingpan, and
enough flour to nearly absorb it, then add a little chopped parsley and shallots ; lay
the herrings in the pan, sprinkle over them three wineglassfuls of red wine and cook
over a hot fire. Put them on a hot dish and lay over some small onions and fried
mushrooms, garnish the dish with fried breadcrumbs and serve hot.
Stewed Fresh Herring.
Take some fresh herring, cut off their heads and clean them, put them in layers
in an earthen pot, sprinkle salt and pepper over each layer. Mince some onions and
carrots and fry them in butter, with some peppercorns, a bunch of parsley and a
clove of garlic, pour over the vegetables as much white wine as will cover the fish.
When the liquor boils remove the pan to the side of the fire and simmer for half an
hour. Strain the liquid over the herrings and let them stew over a slow fire ; they
should not be touched while cooking,
Smoked Herrings.
Clean the herrings well and let them lie for one night in salt, with a small
quantity of saltpetre mixed with it. The next day run a stick through the eyes,
and in this way thread them all. Have ready a cask of sawdust with a red hot
heater in the center of it ; fix the stick over this so that the herrings hang in a row in
the middle of it, and smoke them for twenty-four hours.
Boiled Kingfish.
Clean the fish, and place it in a fishkettle with enough clear fish broth to cover,
and boil slowly. When cooked, strain the fish carefully, slip it on to a folded nap-
kin, on a hot dish, garnish with parsley, and serve with a sauceboatful of either brown
or white sauce.
Baked Mackerel.
Clean some mackerel, wash in plenty of water, split them open down the back,
cut them across, making four pieces of each fish, and lay them in a pie dish in layers,
placing between each layer a few bay leaves, cloves, peppercorns, and a few sliced
shallots. Mix this with half a pint of stock free from fat, and a wineglassful each of
64 FISH.
white wine and vinegar, half a wineglassful each of anchovy and Harvey sauce and
mushroom catsup, and a third of a tablespoonful each of Worcestershire sauce and
soy. Pour this mixture over the fish, put in a flat dish and bake in a moderate oven.
When it is cooked lay the fish on a hot dish, strain the sauce through a fine sieve
over them, and leave until quite cold. When they are ready to serve arrange a few
sprigs of parsley around the dish.
%
Boiled Mackerel.
Prepare and clean some mackerel, put them in salted water, and boil until they
are done. When they are cooked, drain the mackerel and put them on a hot dish.
Blanch some fennel in salted water, and when it is soft drain and chop it finely ; put
one tablespoonful in half a pint of butter sauce, and serve in a sauceboat with the fish.
Boiled Marinaded Mackerel.
Put enough weak broth in a fishkettle fitted with a drainer to cover a dozen
mackerel, add three small onions, a bunch of sweet herbs, half a teacupful of vinegar,
eight cloves with pepper and salt to taste, boil all together for one hour ; then put
them in the fish and cook. When it is done take the fish out carefully on the drainer,
being careful not to break them and put one by one on a hot dish. Strain the liquor
in which they were cooked, put in some parsley and hard boiled eggs to thicken it,
mix in some white gravy sauce, turn it into a sauceboat and serve with the fish.
Broiled Mackerel.
Draw and wash the mackerel, cut off their heads, rub over with salt and leave
for an hour. Rub a gridiron with olive oil, lay the mackerel on it and broil over a
charcoal fire. Place some chopped parsley and onions on a hot dish, and when the
fish is cooked, squeeze over lemon juice and serve it while it is hot.
Broiled Mackerel, Normandy Sauce.
Clean and marinade some mackerel in oil, a slice of onion and a few sprigs of
parsley. The roes must not be take out. Fill them up with as much maitre d'hotel
butter as they will hold, wrap them around with sheets of oiled paper, securing the
ends with thread, place them on a gridiron over a clear fire which must be a
slow one, broil for forty minutes. When they are done remove the paper, place the
fish on a dish, mask them with Normandy sauce and serve with fried bread for garnish.
Broiled Mackerel with Black Butter.
Take some mackerel, open and remove the bones, spread a little butter and
sprinkle some pepper and salt over them. Place the fish on a gridiron and broil over
FISH. 65
a clear fire. Put a pat of butter in a saucepan and stir it over the fire until it is richly
browned, then squeeze in some lemon juice. Place the fish on a hot dish, arrange
some sprigs of parsley around, pour over the butter and serve while it is very hot.
Broiled Spanish Mackerel.
Cut a fish down the middle to take out all the bones and then cut again in
halves ; dry the pieces on a cloth, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Place two
yolks of eggs in a basin and mix them with an equal bulk of olive oil, dip the pieces
of fish into this and then into breadcrumbs and broil over a clear fire.
Boiled Perch.
Clean and scale the fish, leaving the roe and liver inside. Pour a small quantity
of water in a fishkettle with a bunch of parsley, a little salt and pepper, and boil
till the parsley is soft ; then put in the fish with a lump of butter and boil slowly for
ten or twelve minutes. When cooked, remove carefully, lay it on a hot dish, strain
the cooking liquor over, and serve with a Dutch sauce.
Broiled Perch.
Choose perch of a moderate size, fresh from the water ; scale and clean them,
and dry them in a napkin. Melt a good quantity of butter with some salt, let it be
thick when it has cooled a little ; dip the perch in it, and roll it about till the butter
sticks well to every part of it ; then set a gridiron over a very clear fire, but let it
stand some distance from the fire, for the perch must be well cooked before it is
browned. Serve on a bed of fried parsley, garnish with quarters of lemon.
Fried Perch.
Scale, clean and wash the perch, dry them thoroughly and flour them. Put some
dripping in a fryingpan and when boiling put the fish in, fry till nicely browned on
both sides. Place them on a folded napkin or ornamental dish paper on a hot dish,
garnish with fried parsley, and serve with a sauceboatful of butter sauce.
Perch, German Style.
Scale and clean two moderately large perch and put them in a stewpan. Finely
mince the red part of two carrots, some roots of parsley and celery, put them in the
stewpan with the fish, with a bunch of parsley, one onion and a little salt, cover the
perch with white wine and let them boil over a moderate fire for twenty minutes.
Take the fish out when cooked, drain and place them on a hot dish. Take the bunch
of parsley and onions out of the stewpan, then put in with the vegetables some finely
minced raw mushrooms, and cook them for five minutes ; then stir in a piece of
66 FISH.
butter kneaded with flour to thicken it ; take the stewpan off the fire, put in some
more butter, cut in small pieces, but not kneaded, add the strained juice of two
lemons, pour it over the fish and serve.
Perch, Normandy Style.
Scale and clean the perch, put some chopped onions at the bottom of a flat stew-
pan and put in the perch, with a bunch of parsley, some trimmings of fresh mush-
rooms, a little salt and white wine to cover. When the liquid is boiling move the
stewpan to the side of the fire and keep the contents simmering for fifteen minutes.
Prepare a garnish with some quenelles, mushrooms, oysters, and mussels, reserving
the liquor of the oysters and mushrooms. Drain the liquor off the fish through a fine
hair sieve into a sautepan and boil it till reduced to half; then take the pan off the
fire, thicken the sauce with kneaded butter, divided into small pieces, stirring all the
time, then add a liaison of the yolks of three eggs. Put the perch on a hot dish, pour
the sauce over it, put the prepared garnish round, glaze it under a salamander and
serve.
Perch, Silesian Style.
Draw and clean two or three fine perch, but do not scale them. Put some water
in a saucepan with a bunch of parsley, a little vinegar and salt and boil it; then plunge
the perch into it and boil for twenty minutes. Make the following sauce: Put in a
stewpan two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, a few sprigs of parsley, a little tarragon, two
chopped shallots, a bay leaf, and four or five peppercorns. Boil the liquid till reduced
to half its original quantity. Leave it till cool, then mix with it a teacupful of melted
glaze, the beaten yolks of six eggs, four ounces of butter and a little salt, stir the
sauce over a very slow fire to thicken without letting it boil. Place the same in a
bain-marie and whisk it, adding gradually some small pieces of butter. When frothy
put in a teacupful of brown sauce and about two tablespoonfuls of grated horseradish.
Remove the perch carefully with a skimmer, scrape the scales off, dip the fish in the
cooking liquor, then wipe them in a cloth; put them in a hot dish, pour the prepared
sauce over them, first mixing with it a little chopped parsley and a few capers and
serve. Care must be taken to remove the scales quite cleanly or they will spoil the
dish.
Baked Pike.
Scale and clean a pike, cut it into slices and place itin a bakingdish; put in some
slices of onion, two bay leaves, a piece of butter, some pepper and salt, and one-half
pint of sour cream. Bake it for twenty-five minutes in a brisk oven, basting often
with the cream. Strew some breadcrumbs and grated Parmesan cheese over the fish,
and brown it under a salamander. Place the slices of fish on a hot dish, pour some
broth in the baking dish, add some lemon juice, salt and pepper, stir it for a minute
or two on the fire, then pour it over the fish and serve.
FISH. 67
Boiled Pike, Dubois.
Select a gold-coated pike weighing six or seven pounds, scale and draw it, truss
the head and wash it well. Make incisions across the back as deep as the spine bone,
place the fish on its belly in the fishkettle, cover with white wine and water mixed in
equal quantities, add a few minced vegetables, a bunch of sweet herbs and parsley,
four or five peppercorns and a little salt, bring to a boil and simmer over a slow fire
for an hour. Prepare a good sauce with one pint of fish sauce strained and cooled,
thicken it with flour and butter kneaded together, add two tablespoonfuls of soy and five
tablespoonfuls of butter broken into small pieces. Drain the fish, place it on a folded
napkin on a hot dish, or an ornamental dish-paper, garnish with nice little sprigs of
fresh parsley and serve with the sauce in a sauceboat.
Boiled Pike with Caper Sauce.
A pike will improve by being kept for two days; clean it, cut off the fins and bind
its head round with a string. Put the fish in a fishkettle, cover with court bouillon,
and let it simmer for forty minutes, then leave it to soak in the court bouillon for
twenty-four hours. Before warming the pike again take it and the liquor out and
clean the kettle, then put it back again and warm it for twenty minutes. Place the
fish on a folded napkin or ornamental dish-paper on a hot dish, garnish round with
fried parsley and serve with a sauceboatful of caper sauce.
Fried Fillets of Pike.
Cut the fillets carefully off a pike, wash and dry them well, then dip them in
beaten egg and breadcrumbs and fry in plenty of oil. When nicely browned drain
the fillets, arrange them in a circle on a hot dish, fill the center with matelote sauce
and serve.
Pike Financiere.
Clean and skin a pike, wrap it in buttered paper and boil in mirepoix and French
wine mixed in equal quantities. Make a garnishing of pike forcemeat quenelles,
mushrooms, crayfish tails and truffles mixed in financiere sauce, prepared as for fish.
Put a rice socle on a hot dish, drain and glaze the pike and put it in the socle, pile
the garnishing round it in such a way that it hides the socle, garnish round with truf-
fles, mushrooms and crayfish. Trim four silver skewers with crayfish, mushrooms
and fried smelts, stick them in the fish and serve with a sauceboatful of the same
sauce.
Fried Pike.
Select small pike, draw and wash them; put a lump of butter in a stewpan and
when blue smoke arises put in the fish, seeing that they are perfectly dry, and fry till
68 FISH.
nicely browned and crisp. Afterward drain the butter off them and put in with them
two or three anchovies, a slice of ginger, a little grated nutmeg, salt to taste, and a
sufficient quantity of claret to cover them. Boil the fish until tender, when the liquor
should be reduced to half its original quantity; then add the juice of an orange and a
small lump of butter. Lay the fish on a hot dish, pour the sauce over, garnish with
slices of oranges, and serve.
Pickled Pike.
Scale and empty a pike, wash it thoroughly, bind its head up, put it in a fish
kettle and cover with a fish stock, made with red wine; add two or three bay leaves
and boil slowly till tender. Leave the pike in the sauce till the following day. When
ready to serve drain the fish, put it on a folded napkin or ornamental dish-paper,
garnish with fresh parsley and serve with oil and vinegar.
Broiled Pompano.
Thoroughly scrape and clean a Pompano, and if it is a large one, divide it down
the back and through the head; but if it be a small fish, weighing only about a pound,
it may be cooked whole; sprinkle over salt and pepper, and place it on a gridiron
over a clear fire, with the skin side downward, and after warming a little, brush it
over with butter, adding a little more salt and pepper if desired, and return it to the
gridiron to broil on both sides until done, when it may be placed on a dish, a little
lemon juice squeezed over it, and served with tartar sauce, either poured over or
served separately in a sauceboat.
Baked Salmon with Cream Sauce.
Take a middle cut of salmon; butter a large sheet of white paper and wrap the
salmon in it, pinning the ends firmly together. Melt four ounces of butter by mixing
with it three tablespoonfuls of boiling water. Lay the fish, wrapped in paper, in a
bakingpan and pour over the butter and water. Cover and place it in a moderate
oven for an hour, lifting up the cover now and then to see that the paper is not
burning. Boil one-half pint of cream, thickened with one heaping tablespoonful of
corn starch; add to this one ounce of butter, one tablespoonful of chopped parsley,
and a small quantity each of pepper and salt. When the salmon is taken out of the
paper and dished, pour half of the sauce over it and serve the balance in a sauceboat.
Boiled Salmon.
Take a piece of the tail of a fresh salmon, put it into a fishkettle with some salt,
fennel and spices in moderate quantities, one-half teacupful of vinegar, and sufficient
boiling water to cover. Boil the fish until tender. Prepare a sauce with one pint
of the cooking liquor of the fish, one wineglassful of white wine, two finely minced
FISH. 69
anchovies, and boil it until somewhat reduced; then mix with the sauce one ounce of
the butter broken up into small pieces. Lay the salmon on a hot dish that has been
covered with a folded napkin or napkins, garnish with sprigs of parsley, and serve
with the sauce in a sauceboat.
Boiled Salmon with Oyster Sauce.
Put two pounds of very fresh salmon in a fishkettle, completely cover it with
cold water, season with a handful of salt, add one medium-sized onion, one-half wine-
glassful of white wine vinegar, eight or ten whole peppers, two cloves and two parsley
roots. Place the kettle over a brisk fire, and five minutes after coming to the boil
the salmon will be sufficiently cooked. Remove the fish from the kettle, drain it
well, dress it on a hot dish with a folded napkin, decorate with sprigs of parsley all
round the salmon, and serve with one pint of hot oyster sauce in a sauce-boat. The
necessary time to cook the above perfectly, from beginning to end, will be about
thirty-five minutes. Colbert sauce and cold boiled potatoes, cut into quarters, may
be substituted for the oyster sauce and parsley,
Boiled Slices of Salmon with Piquant Sauce.
Cut five slices of salmon, each three-fourths of an inch thick, from the middle
of the fish, wash and dry them well, and put them in a saucepan of hot fish broth
mixed up with a small quantity of wine. When boiling move the pan to the side of
the fire, place the lid on, and let the contents simmer gently for ten or twelve
minutes. When cooked, remove the slices of salmon carefully, wipe them on a cloth,
and arrange them in an upright position on a folded napkin on a hot dish ; place a
group of boiled potatoes at each side, a bunch of parsley at each end, and serve with
a sauceboatful of piquant sauce.
Salmon Bouchees.
Prepare some bouchee cases, and fill them with a paste made of pounded cold
salmon, seasoned and moistened with lobster sauce.
Boudins of Salmon.
Remove the skin and bone from one pound of salmon, reduce it to a pulp, and
pass it through a fine hair sieve. Mix with the puree ten ounces each of bread panada
and crayfish butter, season the mixture with pepper and salt, and bind it with two
well beaten eggs and a little reduced lean sauce that has been thickened with egg.
Mix an onion that has been fried white and cut into small pieces with the forcemeat.
Cut some strips of paper four inches long by two and one-half inches wide, and
butter them. Place a piece of forcemeat three and one-half inches wide by one and
three-fourths inches long and one and three-fourths inches thick on each strip of
70 FISH.
paper. Make a hollow in the center of each piece of forcemeat about three-fourths
of an inch deep, and three-fourths of an inch wide. Fill the hollows with a salpicon
of cooked salmon and truffles mixed in stiffly reduced allemande sauce, cover them
with a little of the forcemeat, and wrap the paper round. Put the boudins in a saute-
pan with a small quantity of stock, and let them simmer gently for fifteen minutes.
Drain the boudins, arrange them in a circle on a hot dish, pour over them some alle-
mande sauce thickened with crayfish butter, and serve.
Broiled Salmon.
Cut some slices of salmon from the tail, place them in a deep dish, cover with
chopped parsley, laurel leaves and mixed herbs, season with salt and pepper, pour
over some olive oil, and leave to soak for an hour. Broil the slices of fish on a
gridiron, basting them occasionally with some of the marinade. When nicely browned
and cooked, place the salmon on a hot dish, pour some white caper sauce over and
serve.
Salmon Croquettes.
Finely chop one pound of salmon ; mix two tablespoonfuls of flour and one
tablespoonful of butter together ; boil one-half pint of cream ; mix the butter, flour
and salmon in with it, and stir all over the fire for a minute. Work in a well-beaten
egg with the above ingredients, remove them from the fire, and leave them until they
are cold. Shape the mixture into croquettes, dip them in beaten egg then in bread-
crumbs, and fry them in boiling fat. When cooked, drain the croquettes, place them
on an ornamental dish paper or a folded napkin spread on a hot dish, garnish with
slices of lemon and serve.
Curried Salmon.
Put a sliced Spanish onion in a stewpan with a piece of butter, fry it, then stir in
one teaspoonful of curry powder, and one teaspoonful of curry paste ; stir it over the
fire for a few minutes, then pour in gradually one pint of broth, and add two pounds
of salmon cut in small pieces. Let the curry simmer gently at the edge of the fire
for an hour, skimming it now and then. Prepare a border of rice, turn it on to a hot
dish, put the curry in the center and serve.
Salmon Cutlets.
Pick all the meat from a piece of cold salmon, and cut it into small pieces
pound some lobster coral in a mortar with one-half ounce of butter, then rub it through
a hair sieve. Put over the fire in a small saucepan one-fourth pint of milk and stir
into it one ounce of flour, well rubbed into one ounce of butter ; continue to stir it
until it is so thick that it comes away from the sides of the pan. Add the coral
butter, the salmon, a seasoning of cayenne pepper, salt and lemon juice ; take it from
FISH. 71
the fire, let it cool. When sufficiently cold, make it into thick rolls, brush them
over with beaten egg, roll them in a paper of breadcrumbs, and fry in boiling fat or
lard. The cutlets should be served hot and garnished with fried parsley.
Salmon Cutlets, English Style.
Cut off some slices of salmon and divide them into the shape of cutlets ; sprinkle
some pepper and salt over, put them into a saucepan with a small quantity of butter,
and toss them over a good fire. Take out the cutlets when cooked, drain off the
butter, place them on a dish and serve with ravigote sauce, or a sauce made as follows :
Put three tablespoonfuls of veloute sauce into a saucepan, reduce it and add one egg,
four ounces of butter, a little salt, cayenne, some finely-minced parsley, and half the
juice of a lemon. Mix it together well, and it is ready for use.
Fried Salmon Cutlets.
Take a quantity of cold boiled salmon, pick out all the bones and skin, pound it
in a mortar, and to every six ounces of salmon allow two ounces of finely mashed
potatoebj add to the potatoes pepper, salt, cayenne and mace to taste. When the
seasoning is well stirred in add the pounded fish and mix all thoroughly. Flatten the
mixture out, shape it into small cutlets. Brush them over with beaten egg, sprinkle
them with fine breadcrumbs and fry to a light brown. Serve a quantity of anchovy
sauce with them.
Salmon Cutlet in Papers.
Cut a slice about one inch thick from the middle of a salmon, wrap it round in
oiled paper and fry it in boiling fat. When done take it out, drain, and serve with
the paper still on.
Salmon Cutlets with Caper Sauce.
Put some slices of salmon in oil with a little chopped parsley and chives and let
them steep for one or two hours. Dip some pieces of paper in the oil that the salmon
has marinaded in and wrap a piece around each slice. Place them on a well-greased
gridiron and broil over a clear slow fire for from forty-five to fifty minutes, according
to the thickness of the slices, turning them occasionally. Remove the paper from
the cutlets, place them on a folded napkin or an ornamental dish-paper on a hot dish
and serve with a sauceboatful of white caper sauce.
Salmon Cutlets with Milanese Sauce.
Cut a piece of salmon into slices, and cut each slice into halves ; trim away the
skin and bone. Dip each piece in a small quantity of white wine, wrap them in
sheets of buttered writing paper, and fasten them securely at the edges. Put a lump
72 FISH.
of butter in a fryingpan, and when boiling fry the salmon in it. When cooked, re-
move the papers from the salmon, place it in a folded napkin or an ornamental dish-
paper on a hot dish, garnish with fried parsley, and serve with a sauceboatful of
Milanese sauce.
Salmon Cutlets with Oyster Sauce.
Cut three large slices from the middle of a salmon, and boil them in salted
water. Put one teaspoonful of chopped onions in a saucepan with a small quantity
of oil and toss them over the fire for a few minutes, but do not color. Cut four
dozen oysters into small pieces, put them in with the onions, and stir them over the
fire until well warmed through ; then mix in two tablespoonfuls of flour, one-half tea-
cupful of oyster liquor, two teaspoonfuls of sugar, a little essence of anchovies, and
one pinch of salt and cayenne pepper ; stir the above ingredients over the fire, let
them boil for a few minutes, stir in quickly the beaten yolks of four eggs, and keep
it on the fire for a minute or two longer. Pour the sauce on a dish and leave it until
cold. Put the slices of salmon on the sauce, brush them over with beaten egg, and
sprinkle breadcrumbs over them ; brown them in a hot oven, garnish round with
oysters, pour some lobster sauce over the fish and serve.
Fillets of Salmon, Parisian Style.
Cut some slices of salmon into small fillets, place them in a buttered sautepan ;
sprinkle a small quantity of pepper and salt over, baste them with clarified butter,
and cover with a round of buttered paper ; saute them over a clear fire. Fix a
croustade on a hot dish, fill it with oysters and picked shrimps that have been mixed
in Hollandaise sauce, with the addition of some chopped parsley ; arrange the fillets
around the croustade, garnish with parsley, pour some of the sauce over and serve.
Fillets of Salmon with Ravigote Sauce.
Cut some fillets of salmon into small, equal-sized pieces, put them into a sauce-
pan with the juice of half a lemon, a small quantity of chopped parsley, clarified
butter, pepper and salt. Fry them over a slow fire, turning them when done on one
side and cook the other. Drain the fillets, arrange them in a circle on a hot dish,
pour some ravigote sauce in the center, and serve without delay.
Fried Salmon.
Cut some thin slices of salmon, sprinkle them over with salt, and leave for fifteen
or twenty minutes. Dredge flour over the slices of salmon, brush over with the
beaten yolk of egg, and fry in boiling salad oil. When cooked, drain the slices of
salmon well, and place them on an ornamental dish-paper or a folded napkin on a
hot dish, garnish with fried parsley, and serve.
FISH.
73
Broiled Kippered Salmon.
Cut the salmon into strips, and wrap each one separately in buttered paper;
make a gridiron hot and grease it well, lay the pieces of fish on it, and broil them
over a clear fire, turning them now and then. When broiled, remove the paper, place
the pieces of fish on a very hot dish, and serve at once.
Fried Kippered Salmon.
Put the slices of kippered salmon in a deep dish, cover them with salad oil, and
let them macerate for several hours. Drain the oil off the salmon into a fryingpan,
and when boiling put the pieces of salmon in and fry them quickly for four or five
minutes. Drain the salmon, put it on an ornamental dish-paper or a folded napkin,
on a hot dish, garnish the dish with slices of lemon and serve at once.
Salmon en Matelote.
Wash and truss a small salmon in the shape of the letter S, and boil it in salted
water. When cooked, drain it, put it on a hot dish, bend some legs of lobster at the
joints, and stick the ends in the back of the salmon from head to tail. Have pre-
pared the following sauce : Put six tablespoonfuls of butter in one and one-half
breakfast cupfuls of butter sauce, stir it over the fire until it is hot, then stir in
quickly two eggs that have been beaten with a small quantity of lemon juice, and
pepper and salt to taste. Pour the sauce over the fish, garnish it with small strips of
fillets of sole that have been dipped in beaten egg and breadcrumbs and fried, and
serve.
Salmon, Maitre d'Hotel.
Squeeze a small quantity of lemon juice over some slices of salmon, and leave
them for a short time. When ready cover each slice with chopped fennel and parsley,
put the fish in a saucepan, cover it with broth that has been thickened with flour and
water, and let it simmer gently until cooked. Place the salmon on a hot dish, and
serve it with maitre d'hotel sauce.
(
Salmon Patties.
Skin and bone a nice piece of salmon, chop the flesh well and season it highly
with grated nutmeg, cayenne pepper, salt and pepper ; rub in a small quantity
of fresh butter and bind it with the beaten yolk of an egg. Butter some tartlet tins,
line them with puff paste and fill them with the salmon mixture ; cover each with a
flat of paste, trim round the edges, moisten and press them together and bake the
patties. These may be eaten either hot or cold.
74 FISH.
Vol-Au-Vent of Salmon.
Prepare a puff paste, giving it four turns, then gather it up and leave it in a cold
place or ice-box for half an hour. Roll the paste into a ten-inch square, put it on a
plate about nine and one-half inches in diameter, and with a sharp knife trim round
the edges ; put another plate about seven inches in diameter in the center, dip a sharp
pointed knife in hot water and cut round the smaller plate, allowing it to go two-
thirds of the way through the paste. Put the paste on a flat baking-tin and bake it
for three-quarters of an hour, taking care not to allow it to burn. When the vol-au-
vent is taken from the oven, lift out the center piece and scoop out the inside with a
spoon. Fill it with one and one-half pounds of cooked salmon that has been heated
in a thick cream sauce. Place the cover on again and serve immediately.
Baked Salmon Trout.
Clean and wash a salmon trout, salt it well both inside and out and let it stand for
an hour ; wash off all the salt, dry -it, stuff it with fish forcemeat, tie up the head to
keep it in shape, put the fish upon a well-buttered drainer in a fishkettle, pour over
eight ounces of butter sauce, add two quarts of mushrooms, two tablespoonfuls of
chopped parsley, a blanched shallot, also chopped, a small quantity each of salt,
pepper, grated nutmeg and ground spices. Pour in one quart of white wine, bring the
liquor quickly to the boil, place the kettle in the oven and cook slowly and gently for
an hour. Take out the fish and skin it ; untie the head, cover it with rasped bread,
pour over a little warmed butter, place the fish in the oven for about five minutes,
dress it on a dish and serve with one-half its strained stock poured over and the re-
mainder in a sauceboat.
Boiled Salmon Trout.
Clean a salmon trout, rub it well with salt, and let it remain for an hour Wash
it thoroughly and wipe it dry ; stuff it with fish forcemeat, tie up the head, place
it on a buttered drainer in a fishkettle, pour over a strained mirepoix, and add
two pints of white wine and an equal quantity of fish stock or broth. Bring the
liquor to the boil, remove it to a slow fire and simmer it gently for an hour and
a half. Take out the fish, drain it, remove the skin, glaze over, place it on a dish,
garnish with cooked truffles and serve with mirepoix sauce in a sauceboat.
Salmon Trout, Modern Style.
Clean and salt a salmon trout as for plain boiling, stuff it with fish forcemeat,
tie the head up carefully, place the fish on a drainer in a fish kettle, sprinkle it over
with grated nutmeg, salt and pepper, put in a bunch of sweet herbs, a clove of
garlic and one pound of butter, pour in one quart of champagne and set it to boil.
Remove it to the side of the fire, where it will simmer gently, but constantly for
FISH. 75
two hours, basting it frequently with its own liquor. Take out the fish, remove the
skin carefully, glaze the surface, place it on a dish in the oven, glaze it once more,
allow it to remain for about ten minutes, then take it out, untie, put it on a serving-
dish, garnish with parsley or any other garnish that may be desired, and serve with
the strained liquor from the fish in a sauceboat.
Baked Sardines.
Skin a dozen sardines, put them on a dish in the oven, and heat them through.
Put the oil from the sardines into a small saucepan, and when it boils mix in one
breakfast cupful of water ; stir it over the fire until thick, then add one teaspoonful
of Worcestershire sauce, and season with salt and cayenne pepper ; move the sauce-
pan from the fire, and add the yolk of an egg that has been beaten together with
one teaspoonful each of vinegar and mustard. Take the dish of sardines out of the
oven, pour the sauce over them and serve while hot.
Broiled Sardines.
Select a dozen good-sized, firm sardines, place them in a double broiler and broil
for two minutes on each side over a very brisk fire. Place six pieces of toast on a
hot dish, lay the sardines on, being careful not to break them, pour over one-half gill
of maitre d'hotel butter, garnish with half a dozen quarters of lemon and serve.
Curried Sardines.
Mix together one teaspoonful each of sugar and curry powder, one teacupful of
cream and a few drops of lemon juice; stir it in a saucepan over the fire until hot,
then put in six or eight sardines. When they are thoroughly heated lay them on a
hot dish with some fried slices of apple and onion, pour the sauce over, place an edg-
ing of boiled rice all round, garnish the tops with capsicums and serve while hot.
Deviled Sardines.
Scrape the skin off some sardines, split them lengthwise, lift the bones out care-
fully, trim them neatly, and spread a small quantity of made mustard over them; sea-
son with moderate quantities of salt and pepper and a few drops of lemon juice. In
about an hour's time lay the sardines on a gridiron and broil them over a clear fire.
When delicately browned lay them on a hot dish over which has been spread an or-
namental dish-paper or a folded napkin and serve. Garnish with fried parsley.
Sardines in Papers.
Drain the oil from some sardines, then scrape and bone them ; fill them with a
mixture of chopped mushrooms, fine herbs, and cold brown sauce. Wrap them care-
76 FISH.
fully in paper, fastening it securely at the ends, and warm them in the oven. Place
the sardines on a hot dish and serve.
Sardines, Maitre d' Hotel.
Skin a number of sardines, cut off their tails, arrange them on hot buttered toast
on a dish, and heat them in the oven. Put one teacupful of white sauce in a sauce-
pan, mix with it one tablespoonful of finely chopped onion and a small quantity of
chopped parsley, boil it for a few minutes, then add one tablespoonful of chili vine-
gar and one pinch of cayenne pepper. Remove the dish of sardines from the oven,
pour the sauce over them, and serve without delay.
Sardines, Piedmontese.
Scrape some sardines and place them in the oven to heat. Put in a saucepan
four well beaten yolks of eggs, one teaspoonful each of tarragon vinegar, malt vinegar
and made mustard, a small quantity of salt, and one-half tablespoonful of butter.
Stir the sauce over the fire until it is quite thick, but do not allow it to boil. Cut
some slices of bread, Remove the crusts, and fry them in boiling lard or butter until
lightly browned. Drain the pieces of bread, arrange them on a hot dish, pile the
sardines on them, pour the sauce over and serve.
Baked Shad.
Pare and scale a small shad, place it on a well buttered deep baking-dish and
season with one pinch of salt and one, half pinch of pepper, adding two finely-chopped
shallots and one-half wineglassful of white wine. Cover the whole with a piece of
buttered paper and cook in a moderate oven for twenty-five minutes. When done,
pour the liquor into a saucepan, add one-half pint of German sauce, a pinch of finely-
chopped chervil and a small quantity of spinach : cook for three minutes longer, pour
a little of it through a strainer over the fish and serve the balance in a sauceboat.
Baked Shad, American Style.
Clean a shad by drawing the entrails through the gills and wash and dry it. Pre-
pare a stuffing with breadcrumbs, salt, pepper and butter, moisten with egg to bind
and stuff the fish with it ; place it in a baking-dish over slices of uncooked potatoes,
pour in sufficient fish broth to moisten, cover with buttered paper and bake. Serve with
a quantity of rich sauce or thickened stock in a sauceboat.
Broiled Shad.
Remove the scales from a large shad, clean it well, cut off the fins and score it
on both sides. Place the fish in a deep dish with some chopped shallots, parsley, oil
FISH. 77
and salt and let it macerate for one hour. Grease a gridiron well, warm it, and lay
on the fish ; broil it over a clear fire, turning it occasionally and basting it with oil.
The shad will require from thirty to forty-five minutes to cook, according to its size.
When ready, place the fish on a folded napkin on a hot dish garnished with parsley
and serve with a sauceboatful of maitre d'hotel sauce.
Broiled Shad with Sorrel.
Scale and draw a shad which has a soft roe, cut off the fins, wipe it, and make
incisions on both sides. Place the shad in a deep dish, baste it with oil, season to
taste with salt and pepper, and let it macerate for one hour. Broil the fish over a
clear fire, turning and basting it frequently with the oil in which it is soaked. Boil a
quantity of sorrel as for garnish, make a border of it on a hot dish, place the shad in
the center, pour over a little parsley sauce and serve, accompanied by a sauceboatful
of the sauce.
Fried Shad.
After the shad is cleaned and washed split it down the back, cut out the back-
bone, divide the fish into pieces about three or four inches square, and lay them on a
clean dry cloth. Have in readiness a drippingpan, or a large fryingpan containing
hot fat one-half inch deep, roll the fish in flour seasoned with salt and pepper, put it
into the fat when smoking hot and fry it brown on both sides; use a broad spatula or
cake turner to turn over the pieces in order to preserve them entire. As quickly as
the pieces brown lift them out of the pan, lay them on brown paper fora moment to
free them from fat, and then turn them on to a hot dish. Serve with lemons,
pickles or cucumbers.
Planked Shad.
Procure a hardwood board about an inch and a half thick, and split the shad as for
broiling, put it on the board with the skin side down and fasten it with some tacks,
and put the board over the fire, roasting until done, and rub it every once in a while
with a little butter. The plank should be well seasoned and be heated before placing
the shad upon it or it will flavor the fish with the wood. When done turn it on to a
hot dish, dredge over it some salt and pepper, and cover it with small bits of butter
and serve with lemon cut in quarters.
Broiled Shad's Roe.
Wash a shad's roe in cold water, wipe it dry on a clean towel, place it between
the bars of a double wire gridiron, thickly buttered, and broil until brown on both
sides. When cooked serve it with butter, lemon juice and parsley, pepper and salt.
A garnish of sliced cucumbers may be served with the broiled roe. A dish of mashed
potatoes should also accompany it.
78 FISH.
Broiled Shad's Roe with Bacon.
Wash thoroughly six pieces of shad's roe, wipe weh with a towel, lay them on a
dish and season with one good pinch of salt and two tablespoonfuls of sweet oil. Roll
them gently to avoid breaking, arrange them on a broiler and broil for six minutes
on each side. Remove from the fire, lay them on a hot dish and pour over one gill
of maitre d'hotel butter. Garnish with six slices of broiled bacon and six quarters of
lemon and serve.
Shad's Roe Croquettes.
Broil the roe for fifteen minutes in salted water, then drain and mash it. Boil
one pint of cream; mix four tablespoonfuls of corn starch with one-fourth pound of
butter and stir it into the boiling cream; add the strained juice of two lemons, a little
salt, cayenne pepper and grated nutmeg and the roe. Boil all together, then take
the saucepan off the fire and leave the contents until cool. Shape the mixture into
croquettes, dip them in beaten eggs and breadcrumbs, repeating the operation twice.
Put the croquettes in a frying basket, plunge theni into boiling fat and brown them
quickly. When cooked drain the croquettes, place them on a hot dish, garnish with
parsley and serve.
Fried Shad's Roe.
Steep the roe in cold water. (Care should be taken in removing it from the
fish not to break it.) Wipe the roe dry, place it in a fryingpan with a small
quantity of lard, and fry until nicely done. When cooked place the roe on a folded
napkin laid on a hot dish, garnish with parsley, and serve
Boiled Sheepshead.
Wash and clean the fish well, rub it over with dry salt, and soak it in cold water
for an hour. Remove it from the water, wipe dry, score it several times across both
sides, and rub it with a lemon cut into halves. Lay the fish on a drainer over a fish
kettle, cover it with cold water and milk equally mixed, add one tablespoonful of salt,
let it gradually boil, and then gently simmer for half an hour. In dishing the fish be
careful to transfer it from the kettle to the dish without breaking it. Pour a little of
the cooking liquor round and serve the balance in a sauceboat.
Fried Fillets of Sheepshead.
Remove the fillets and dip them in salted milk, and roll them in flour and then
in egg and fresh breadcrumbs, and fry them in hot fat. Arrange them on a napkin
on a hot dish, overlapping one another, and serve them with Bearnaise, Mayonnaise
or Tartare sauce.
FISH.
79
Boiled Skate with Black Butter.
Boil the skate till tender with small quantities of onion, thyme, parsley, bay
leaves, pepper, salt and vinegar in the water. Put some fried parsley in the center
of a hot dish, and place some black butter around it. Divide the skate into kite-
shaped pieces, put them on the butter and serve.
Baked Fillets of Skate.
Skin the fish, divide it into fillets, and dry them on a cloth. Put the fillets into
a saucepan with a lump of butter about the size of a walnut, two slices of lemon and
a bunch of herbs. Dredge over them a small quantity of flour, then pour in one
pint of milk. Add a lump of salt. When three-fourths cooked, drain the fillets,
put them on a baking dish, and bake them in a slow oven until nicely browned.
Place the fillets on a folded napkin, garnish with fried parsley and serve with a
sauce boatful of mixed herb sauce.
Skate, Italian Style.
Put a skate into a saucepan with a clove of garlic, one bay leaf, one or two
sprigs of thyme, a small lump of butter, two cloves, and salt and pepper ; dredge in
a little flour, and cover the fish with milk. Boil gently until the skate is cooked,
then remove and drain it. Put in with the cooking stock a few boiled button onions,
and boil quickly for a few minutes. Sprinkle some grated cheese at the bottom of a
deep dish, put the skate on it, place the onions and some fried sippets of bread round
it, and strain the sauce over; cover the top with grated cheese, and bake it for fifteen
minutes in a brisk oven. When ready, serve the skate in the same dish.
Stewed Skate with Caper Sauce.
Wash and clean a skate, place it in a saucepan with one sliced onion, a bunch of
green onions, two bay leaves, and a small bunch of parsley and thyme; cover the fish
with water, add a small quantity of vinegar, season with pepper and salt, and stew it
gently until tender. When cooked drain the fish, place it on a hot dish, cover it with
caper sauce and serve.
Baked Smelts.
Clean eighteen or twenty smelts, wipe them very dry, and put them on a baking
dish with two tablespoonfuls of cooked fine herbs, one-half wineglassful of white
wine, one-half pinch of salt, one-half pinch of pepper, and cover with six whole mush-
rooms and one-half pint of Spanish sauce. Sprinkle lightly with breadcrumbs and
a little warmed butter, place the dish in a hot oven for ten minutes, and serve with
the juice of half a lemon, and sprinkle over one teaspoonful of chopped parsley. The
smelts can be boned if desired.
8o FISH.
Smelts, Bearnaise.
Split twelve large or eighteen medium-sized smelts down the backs, remove the
backbones, rub them with one tablespoonful of oil and season with one-half pinch of
salt and one-third of a pinch of pepper. Broil them in a double broiler for two min-
utes on each side, pour a little over one gill of Bearnaise sauce on a dish, arrange the
smelts carefully on top, garnishing with a very little demi-glaze sauce round the dish
and serve.
Smelts, Boulangere.
Clean and dry the fish on a cloth, dip them into very thick cream and then
dredge them thickly over with flour forming a paste round them. Put some lard in a
fryingpan and when very hot put the fish in and fry them till of a light golden brown.
Arrange the smelts on a dish paper or a folded napkin placed on a hot dish, garnish
with fried parsley and serve.
Fried Smelts.
Clean and dry the fish, roll them in beaten egg and then in finely grated bread-
crumbs ; dredging a little flour and salt over them. Put a good-sized lump of butter
into a fryingpan, and when hot put in the smelts and fry them quickly. Drain the
fish when richly browned, place them on an ornamental dish-paper or a folded napkin
on a hot dish garnished with fried parsley and serve.
Smelts in Matelote.
Put a chopped onion, a sprig of parsley, two or three mushrooms and a small piece
of garlic into a saucepan ; pour over them a small quantity of oil and season with salt
and pepper. Clean the smelts, put them into a stewpan, pour over one teacupful of
champagne and let them simmer gently until cooked. Place the smelts on a hot
dish, squeeze a little lemon juice over and serve.
Smelts Sauted in Brown Butter.
Remove the gills, clean and wash the smelts, and when well dried roll them in
flour. Place a lump of butter in a fryingpan, and when it is hot put in the smelts
and brown them, turning when done on one side. Arrange some slices of hot but-
tered toast on a dish, put the fish on them and serve at once.
Stuffed Smelts.
Cut off the fins of eighteen or twenty fresh medium-sized Long Island smelts
and wash and dry them well; remove the insides without splitting the stomachs open,
then stuff them with a fish forcemeat, using a paper cornet for the purpose. Place
the smelts on a well-buttered baking dish (silver if possible), and cover them with
FISH. 81
one pint of Italian sauce. Place them in a hot oven and bake for eight or ten min-
utes; remove, squeeze over the juice of a lemon and serve in the same dish.
Smelts, Toulouse.
Take twelve or fourteen good-sized smelts, remove the bones and then close
them up again. Put them in a stewpan with one-half wineglassful of white wine and
three tablespoonfuls of mushroom liquor; season with one-half pinch of salt and one-
third pinch of pepper and cook over a moderate fire for six or eight minutes. Arrange
the smelts on a dish; add to the sauce a dozen button mushrooms, two sliced truffles,
six fish quenelles, and moisten with one-half pint of allemande sauce. Thicken with
one tablespoonful of butter and pour the sauce over the smelts. Neatly dress the
garnishing round the dish and serve with sippets of toast or croutons of fried bread.
Baked Sole with Wine Sauce.
Clean, trim off the gills and dark skin, and scrape the white side of a large sole ;
make a deep cut on each side of the backbone, and cut off the fins. Butter well the
inside of a grating pan and put in the sole ; season with a little pepper and salt, and pour
in one pint of French white wine, and bake in the oven for twenty minutes. Put
about one ounce of butter into a saucepan with two tablespoonfuls of flour and stir
over the fire until well mixed, then add one and one-half breakfast cupfuls of water
and a little pepper and salt ; stir the sauce over the fire until boiling. When cooked
strain the liquor off the sole into the sauce, boil the whole together, and then move
the pan to the side of the fire ; put in one ounce of butter and one tablespoonful of
chopped parsley, and stir it until the butter has melted. Put the sole on a hot dish,
pour the sauce over it, and serve.
Broiled Sole.
Clean and skin a sole, sprinkle both sides with pepper and salt, and squeeze a
small quantity of lemon juice over it ; dip the sole in warmed butter, cover it well
with finely grated breadcrumbs, place it on a gridiron, and broil it over a clear fire,
turning it when brown on one side and browning the other. Bone an anchovy, put
the flesh into a mortar with a small lump of butter, and pound it, then place it in a
small saucepan with one wineglassful of white wine, and the strained juice of half a
lemon, and stir it over the fire for a few minutes. When cooked, place the sole on a
hot dish, pour the sauce over it and serve.
Soles, Colbert Style.
Skin and trim the soles and boil them. Blanch the hearts of four heads of
endive, put them in a saucepan with a lump of butter, and stir over the fire until hot ;
then pour over one pint of stock that has been thickened with the yolk of egg beaten
82 FISH.
with a little cream, and add three or four poached eggs. Place the soles on a hot
dish, pour the sauce over them, and serve.
Fried Fillets of Sole.
Place a sole in a deep dish, season it with chopped sweet herbs, salt and pepper,
cover it with white wine, and leave it to soak for half an hour. A few minutes
before serving fillet the sole, dip the fillets in milk, dredge them well with flour, and
fry them in lard. When nicely browned, place the fillets on a folded napkin laid on
a hot dish and serve.
Fillets of Soles in Cases.
Put one teacupful of finely minced mushrooms into a frying pan with two table-
spoonfuls of chopped shallots and one tablespoonful of chopped parsley, add a lump
of butter and season with pepper and salt. Toss the above ingredients over the fire
until cooked, then put them by until cold. Fillet the soles, mask one side of them
with the above mixture, roll them up, secure them with a piece of thread, place them
between two buttered plates and bake them. Prepare some white sauce. Put each
fillet into a small paper case, place a small mushroom on the top of each, fill up the
cases with the hot sauce, and serve them at once.
Fillets of Soles, Joinville.
Procure the fillets of three soles, fold and lay them in the shape of a crown, in
a well-buttered and flat stewpan, adding half a glassful of white wine and three
tablespoonfuls of mushroom liquor, seasoning with half a pinch of salt and pepper
and cook for six minutes over a moderate fire ; then arrange the fillets on a dish,
place at the side of the stove, reduce the gravy to one-half, adding one cooked
lobster claw, one truffle and three mushrooms, all of which have been cut julienne-
shaped, add to this half a pint of Allemande sauce, stir it thoroughly and pour it
over the soles previous to serving, sticking a piece of truffle and a mushroom button
into each fillet, also in each one stick a pickled shrimp with head erect, and serve.
Fillets of Sole, Orly.
Remove the fillets from the soles, place them in a dish with pepper, salt and pour
plenty of lemon juice over them, and allow them to soak for thirty or forty minutes.
Put the trimmings of the fish into a saucepan with a bunch of sweet herbs and
one-half pint of white wine, season with salt and pepper, and boil the sauce
till it is partly reduced. Rub some flour over the fillets and fry them in boiling fat.
When cooked, drain the fillets, lay them on a folded napkin on a hot dish, garnish
with fried parsley, and serve with the sauce in a sauceboat.
FISH. 83
Fillets of Soles, Parisian Style.
Place the fillets of a pair of soles in a saucepan with a finely-chopped onion
and one tablespoonful of chopped parsley ; cover them with butter that has been
melted, seasoning with salt and pepper. Toss the soles about over a moderate fire
till cooked, taking care not to allow them to burn. When done arrange the fillets
on a hot dish, pour over some Italian sauce and garnish with lemon and parsley.
Fillets of Soles, Provincial Style.
Fillet two soles and place them in a stewpan with a teacupful of white wine and
a small quantity of olive oil; add a little chopped parsley, garlic, nutmeg, salt and
pepper, and let them simmer gently by the side of the fire for half an hour. When
cooked arrange the fillets on a hot dish, squeeze some lemon juice over, garnish round
with some slices of fried onions, and serve.
Fillets of Soles, Rouennese.
Skin a pair of soles and separate the fillets from the bones, spread them with
lobster butter and double them over. Butter a baking sheet, put the fillets on it,
squeeze a little lemon juice over, cover with a sheet of buttered paper, and bake in a
slow oven. It will require about ten minutes to cook them. Put three-fourths of an
ounce of butter into a saucepan with two tablespoonfuls of flour, and stir it over the
fire until mixed; then pour in gradually a teacupful of fish stock and continue stirring
it over the fire until boiling. Mix with the sauce one-half teacupful of cream, some
lemon juice, cayenne pepper, salt, and two tablespoonfuls of chopped truffles.
Arrange the soles on a hot dish, pour the sauce over, and serve.
Fillets of Sole with Anchovies.
Fry the fillets of a sole in a little salad oil, season them with salt and pepper,,
and press them between two dishes until cold. Bone and clean four anchovies, and
divide each one into four fillets. Cut the fillets of sole into pieces about the same
size as the anchovy fillets, mix them together and pile them on a dish. Mix with a
teacupful of salad oil, one tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar, and one chopped
capsicum. Pour the dressing over the fish, and serve it.
Fillets of Soles with Oysters.
Separate the fillets from the bones of some soles, trim them and fry them in a
little butter. Fix a bread croustade on a hot dish, and fill it with oysters mixed with
allemande sauce. When cooked arrange the fillets round the croustade, pour a little
allemande sauce over and serve with a sauceboatful of the same.
84 FISH.
Fillets of Soles with Ravigote Sauce.
Place some fillets of soles in a saucepan with a lump of butter, the juice of half
a lemon and a little pepper and salt, cook over a slow fire, but do not brown them.
Pour two and one-half teacupfuls of white sauce into a saucepan, with one and one-
half teacupfuls of white broth, and boil for three or four minutes, keeping it well
stirred. Mix a little chopped chervil, parsley and tarragon with two ounces of fresh
butter and stir it into the sauce, with two teaspoonfuls of tarragon vinegar, seasoning with
salt and pepper and stirring it over the fire for a minute longer. Place the fillets on
a hot dish, pour the sauce over and serve.
Soles, Marechal.
Skin, clean and marinade a pair of soles and fry them plain, having previously
dipped them in egg and breadcrumbs. Let them get cold, trim them, brush over
with warmed butter mixed with beaten yolks of eggs and salt, cover them with fine
breadcrumbs mixed with grated Parmesan cheese; pour a little more warmed butter
over, lay them on an oiled gridiron, over a slow, clear fire, and broil for about twenty
minutes, turning them over so as to color both sides equally. When done place them
on a dish, pour round some more maitre d'hotel sauce and serve.
Sole, Normandy Style.
Lay a thick-skinned sole in the bottom of a stewpan, having previously buttered
the latter, and put in with it about a dozen mussels that have been blanched in boiling
water, eighteen or twenty oysters, a chopped onion, a bunch of thyme and parsley, some
trimmings of truffles, and a few pieces of butter. Pour in one teacupful each of
chablis and broth, season with salt and pepper, place the lid on the stewpan and let
the contents simmer until nearly done. Put into a stewpan some trimmings of veal
and bacon with some chopped vegetables, pour in one-half pint of broth, mix in a
lump of butter that has been worked with a small quantity of flour and boil the sauce
for twenty minutes. When three-fourths done put the sole in a dish that will stand
the heat of an oven, mix its cooking liquor with the sauce and strain them both in a
clean stewpan; then add the beaten yolks of two eggs and stir it by the side of the
fire until done and thick. Pour the sauce over the sole, put the mussels, oysters and
some sauted mushrooms on the top, and garnish round the sides with heart-shaped
croutons of fried bread. Cover the dish with a sheet of buttered paper, and finish
cooking the contents in the oven. When cooked serve the fish in the same dish
placed on a large flat dish covered by a folded napkin.
Paupiettes of Soles.
Skin the soles, then lift the fillets carefully from the bones and trim them.
Prepare some whiting forcemeat, spread a layer of it on each fillet, roll them, and
FISH. 85
wrap each one in a separate sheet of buttered paper, keeping them in shape by tying
a string around them. Bake the paupiettes in the oven. When cooked remove the
paper, place them on a hot dish, with a turned mushroom on each, pour over some
Allemande sauce and serve.
Stewed Soles with Oyster Sauce.
Scrape a pair of thick soles, leaving on the skins, and steep them for a couple
of hours in a little vinegar, with a dust of pepper and salt over them. Place the
soles in a fishkettle with the vinegar and one pint of boiling fish stock, and let them
simmer gently for twenty minutes. When cooked, place them on a hot dish, pour
over some oyster sauce, and serve.
Baked Trout.
Scrape and clean about six pounds of trout, draw them through the gills, wash
well, and wipe them inwardly. Stuff them with forcemeat, put them into a baking-
pan over a quarter of a pound of melted butter ; cover over with a little mushroom
liquor or a few mushrooms chopped, also with slices of pork, and sprinkle over three
or four tablespoonfuls of chopped onions, a can of mushrooms without any liquor,
and one tablespoonful of minced parsley ; also salt and pepper to taste. Pour over
about one-half pint of stock, place the pan in the oven and bake for half an hour,
basting frequently with the liquor in the pan. When done, take the trout out, place
them on a dish, and serve with a garnish of potatoes.
Trout, Beyrout.
Clean a large trout, dry it on a cloth, dredge it over with flour, place it on a
gridiron over a clear fire and broil it. When done take it off, remove the skin, place
it on a dish, pour over beyrout sauce or fish sauce and serve.
Boiled Trout.
Scale and clean three or four large trout, place them in a saucepan, pour over
two breakfast cupfuls of boiling vinegar, which will have the effect of turning them
blue, and an equal quantity of white wine, and pour over sufficient water to cover
them. Add one onion, stuck with cloves, one carrot, half a bunch of celery, four or
five bay leaves, a small bunch of parsley, one teaspoonful of pepper corns and salt to
suit the taste ; set the saucepan over the fire and boil for about fifteen minutes, with
the cover on. When done, remove the fish, drain them, place them on a folded
napkin spread on a dish, garnish with parsley, and serve with oil and vinegar, or any
fish sauce, in a sauceboat.
86 PISH.
Broiled Trout.
Clean a trout, wipe it carefully, tie it up into shape, cover it over with one table-
spoonful of salt, mixed with four or five ounces of butter, and let it remain for three
minutes. Then place it on a gridiron, over a clear fire, and broil it gently for fifteen
minutes or so. Chop up a well-washed and boned anchovy, stir it up with a little
melted butter in a saucepan, add one tablespoonful of capers, one dessertspoonful
of vinegar, and a little salt, pepper and nutmeg. When done, put the trout on a dish ;
boil the sauce for two or three minutes, pour it over the fish and serve at once.
Broiled Trout with Bacon.
Wash and clean a trout well, slit it down the belly and remove the backbone.
Put a strip of bacon in place of the bone, tie the fish into its original shape, place it
on a gridiron over a clear fire and broil it. When done place it on a dish, garnish
with fried parsley and serve.
Brook Trout.
All trout should be clean and cooked as quickly as possible after catching, as in
consequence of the extreme delicacy of the flesh it soon deteriorates after death.
The recipes following this one may be equally applied to all kinds of trout.
Croquettes of Trout.
Cut off the fillets from two cold boiled trout, divide them into squares, cover
them over with chopped onions and chervil, squeeze over a small quantity of lemon
juice and roll them up into croquettes, dip them into villeroi sauce, then into egg and
breadcrumbs twice so as to have them well covered, plunge them into a fryingpan
of boiling fat and fry them to a good brown color. When done take them out, drain,
and place them on a napkin spread on a dish and serve with parsley for garnish.
Fillets of Trout, Aurora.
Cut the fillets from three trout, form them into any desired shape, place them in
a sautepan with a little warmed butter, sprinkle over with salt and pepper, and cook
them quickly over the fire until they are done, turning them often so as to have them
well done on both sides. Place them on a dish, pour over a quantity of aurora sauce,
or sauce made red with lobster spawn, and serve without delay.
Fillets of Trout, Sauted.
Separate the bones from the fillets, cut each fillet into halves, put them in a buttered
sautepan, season with salt and pepper and fry them over a brisk fire. Put one-half
pound of lobster butter into a saucepan, with the yolks of four or five eggs, the juice
FISH. 87
of a lemon, and a little salt and pepper, and stir all together over a clear fire till well
mixed; then pour in one half-pint of melted butter and two teaspoonfuls of essence of
anchovy. Stir the sauce till thick and on the point of boiling, then move it off the
fire. When cooked place the fillets on a hot dish, strain the sauce through a fine
sieve over them and serve.
Fried Trout.
Choose small trout, wash and clean them well, and cut off their fins. Season one
or two tablespoonfuls of flour with salt and pepper, and roll the fish well in it. Put a
large piece of lard or clarified fat in a stewpan, and place it over the fire; when the
blue smoke rises put in the fish and fry them until nicely browned. When cooked
drain them on a sheet of kitchen paper in front of a clear fire, then place them on a hot
dish over which has been spread an ornamental dish-paper, or a folded napkin, garnish
with fried parsley and serve.
Trout, Hussar Style.
Scale and clean a trout, draw it by the gills, and stuff it with butter mixed up
with finely-chopped sweet herbs. In stuffing great care must be exercised to see that
the skin is not broken. Rub the fish well with warmed butter or oil, sprinkle it over
well with pepper and salt, put it on a gridiron over a clear fire, and broil it ; or it
may be put in a dish in the oven and baked. Place it on a dish when done and
serve with poivrade sauce, in a sauceboat.
Trout in Papers.
Take half a dozen trout of one-fourth pound each in weight, and stuff them with
fish forcemeat. Oil as many pieces of paper as there are fish, place a slice of salt
pork on either end of each piece, lay a trout on top, sprinkle over a little salt and
pepper, fold the paper and tie it securely with a string. Cook in a baking-dish in a
moderate oven for twenty minutes or so, and serve them in their envelopes, after
removing the strings, with any sauce desired in a sauceboat.
Trout, Venetian Style.
Scale and clean a large trout, wash and dry it well, score it across the back and
insert in the openings some butter highly seasoned with minced basil, lemon thyme,
chives, and parsley. Put the trout in a dish, pour over salad oil to cover it, and let
it remain for half an hour; then remove it, sprinkle over sifted breadcrumbs stirred
in with a small quantity of chopped herbs, place it on a gridiron over a clear fire,
and broil it for fifteen minutes or so, or until it is done. Place it on a dish and serve
with orange sauce in a sauceboat.
88 FISH.
Trout with Remoulade.
Select some medium-sized trout and fry them in butter; when cooked place them
for a minute on a sheet of kitchen paper, in order to drain off as much of the fat as
possible. Chop in moderate quantities some chives, capers, parsley, chervil, water-
cress and a small quantity of shallots; then pound these in a mortar and mix in one
teaspoonful of French mustard, the beaten yolks of two eggs and one teacupful of
salad oil. The oil must be mixed in drop by drop, so that it may incorporate thor-
oughly with the other ingredients. When the sauce is perfectly smooth mix in a
small quantity of chili vinegar. Spread an ornamental dish-paper or a folded napkin
over a dish, lay the trout on it, garnish round with parsley and serve with the sauce
in a sauceboat.
Baked Turbot.
Clean and wash a small turbot, place it on a dish, pour over a small quantity of
hot butter, sprinkle with a little finely-chopped parsley, powdered mace, salt and pep-
per, and allow it to remain for an hour. Lift the fish up carefully and place it in a
baking dish. Brush it over with egg, then cover with sifted breadcrumbs, set it in
the oven and bake. When done remove, put it on a dish and serve with any desired
fish sauce.
Boiled Turbot with Lobster Sauce.
Place a turbot in a fish kettle with a bunch of parsley, a lump of salt, plenty of
cold water and the juice of two large lemons. When the water begins to boil move
the kettle to the side of the fire and let it simmer until the fish is tender. Have pre-
pared the following sauce: Pick the meat from a hen lobster and cut it into moder-
ate-sized pieces; place the shell and spawn in a mortar with a lump of butter and
pound it until smooth, then pass it through a fine hair sieve. Make three-fourths of
a pint of butter sauce, put the pieces of lobster in it, and season it with a very small
quantity of cayenne pepper. When the sauce boils stir in the pounded mixture and
one teacupful of cream, and move the pan to the edge of the fire. When the turbot
is cooked drain it well, lay it on a hot dish over which has been spread a folded nap-
kin, place a border of fresh green parsley round the dish and then a circle of quarters
of lemon. Serve the fish while hot with the sauce in a sauceboat. The fish does not
require much boiling.
Broiled Trout.
Clean and wipe the fish quite dry, split it down the back and let it soak for
nearly an hour in warm butter with chopped sweet herbs, salt, pepper and parsley ;
then cover it with sifted breadcrumbs and broil it over a clear fire. Serve with
lemon juice or orange juice squeezed over.
FISH 89
Fillets of Turbot with Cream Sauce.
Separate the fillets from the bones of some cooked turbot, skin them, leave till
cold, then cut them into collops. Put one tablespoonful of flour into a stewpan with
four ounces of butter and one-half teacupful of cream, a pinch of cayenne pepper
and a small quantity of glaze ; season to taste with salt, stir the sauce over the fire
until it is thick, then remove it to the side and put in the fillets of turbot. Turn the
turbot and sauce on to a hot dish and serve. If preferred, the mixture can be served
in a vol-au-vent.
Turbot with Black Butter.
Remove the skin and bones from some cold cooked turbot and cut the fish into
nice sized pieces. Put a large piece of butter into a stewpan and boil it until it
comes to be of a dark color ; then put in a moderate quantity of finely-chopped
parsley and one wineglassful of tarragon vinegar. Season to taste with pepper and
salt. Put the fish into the sauce and keep it at the side of the fire until heated
through and through. Turn the fish with the butter on to a hot dish and serve.
Vol-au-Vent of Fish, Normandy.
Prepare a puff paste with one pound each of flour and butter and one ounce of
salt. Roll the paste out to a thickness of about three-fourths of an inch, and cut it
round to the size of the dish on which it is to be served. Place the flat of paste on
a baking sheet, brush it over with beaten egg, and cut a circle through the middle
about one-fourth of an inch deep, leaving an edge about one inch wide all round.
Bake the paste in a moderate oven, and when cooked lift up the center piece which
will have risen ; scoop out the uncooked paste, brush the inside with beaten egg, and
place it in an oven for five minutes longer. Prepare a filling of scalloped fillets of
soles, mussels, oysters and sliced mushrooms. Mix the cooking liquor of the mussels
with some lean veloute sauce, boil it until somewhat reduced, then thicken it with
the beaten yolks of two eggs. Mix the sauce with the garnishing, place the cover of
paste on, stand it on the dish it was made to fit, and serve.
Deviled Whitebait.
Wash the fish, drain well on a sieve, dry them in a soft cloth and then drop them on
a well-floured cloth, carefully rolling each little fish over in it, so that they shall all be
nicely and evenly floured. Put them immediately into a frying-basket, and dip them
into extremely hot boiling lard ; hold it there for a very short time, lift the basket
out of the lard, and dust the fish over with black pepper and a small quantity of salt ;
some cooks dip them again into the boiling lard for a second, remove them, sprinkle
with cayenne pepper, and serve.
9 o FISH.
Fried Whitebait.
Wash the fish, drain well on a wire sieve, dry them in a soft cloth, and then drop
them, when quite dry, on to a well-floured cloth, rolling each fish carefully in it.
Put them immediately into a frying basket, dip them into extremely hot lard, hold
it there until the fish is crisp, which will be before it browns, take it out while still
white, and serve as quickly as possible on a napkin laid on a hot dish, and garnish
with fried parsley, and quarters of lemon. Serve with them cayenne, grated lemo i
peel and thin slices of brown bread and butter.
Baked Fillets of Whitefish.
Scale some large whitefish, split them, remove the backbone, season the fille* >
with salt and pepper, and dip them in beaten egg, then in breadcrumbs, and again in
beaten egg, then in breadcrumbs, and again in beaten egg. Put a lump of fresh
lard in a baking dish, heat it, and then put in the fillets. Bake the fish in the oven
for twenty minutes, until they are lightly colored. When cooked, drain the grease
off the fillets, place them on a hot dish, garnish with fried parsley, and serve with
potatoes and a sauceboatful of parsley sauce.
Shell-Fish.
Clam Fritters.
Place some fresh clams into one pan, and the liquor from them into another.
Prepare a mixture of broken crackers and flour in equal quantities, and dip the
clams first into their own liquor and then into this, repeating this operation three
times ; finally dipping them into milk, and then again into the flour mixture. Have
prepared some boiling lard, drop in a few clams at a time, let them fry for about five
minutes ; then remove them with a skimmer, place them on a strainer, drain away the
fat, and they are ready to be served. The pan containing the lard should be so deep
that the clams will be covered when put in.
Scalloped Clams.
Wash thoroughly six or eight good sized clam shells, fill them with clam force-
meat, flatten them with the hand, spread over sifted breadcrumbs, smooth with the
blade of a knife, and moisten with a little clarified butter. Arrange them on a baking
pan and bake until they are well browned, or for about six minutes. Place them on
a hot dish, and serve at once, with sprigs of parsley for garnish.
Steamed Clams.
Scrub the shells of some clams well in water ; then place them in a saucepan
without any water, place them over the fire, and cook until the shells open. Remove
the clams with a skimmer, pour the liquor into a jar and let it settle. 'There will be
no use in straining the liquor through the finest strainer, but a piece of linen may be
used, or if allowed to settle, and care be taken not to move the sediment, the water
can be poured off. Remove the clams from their shells, pulling off the thin skin
round the edge, and cutting off the whole of the black end with a pair of scissors.
Plunge each clam into a small quantity of the liquor, and if at all tough cut that part
through. When the water has settled pour it into a saucepan, add the clams and
make it hot, though do not allow it to boil. Take out the clams and serve with brown
bread and butter, toasted crackers, or on pieces of buttered toast.
Stewed Clams.
Remove about three dozen small clams from their shells, place them with two
ounces of fresh butter into a stewpan, one pinch of chives and one pinch of finely
92 SHELL-FISH.
chopped chervil, adding one-half breakfast cupful of water, so that it may not be too
salt; also a small pinch of pepper and two tablespoonfuls of sifted breadcrumbs, and
boil for two minutes. Turn all out on to a dish and serve with the juice of half a
lemon squeezed over.
Little-Neck Clams Served Raw.
Wash a number of these clams in water, scrubbing them with a brush, wipe them
dry on a cloth, open and cut them clear from their shells. Place five on a plate on
the half shells, placing half a lemon in the center of the plate, and serve with crack-
ers and a small dish of finely chopped cold cabbage.
Soft Clams, Ancient Style.
Take a dozen nice, large, soft clams, wash them well and open them, keeping
only one part of the shell with the clam. Put a piece of butter on each clam and
plenty of Paprika pepper and a little strip of raw bacon. Put the clams on a roast-
ing pan, which place in a hot oven for about ten minutes and serve it on the pan
in which the clams have been cooked.
Fried Soft Clams.
Thoroughly wash one bunch or one pint of soft clams taken out of their shells
in cold water to free them from sand and lay them separately on a towel to dry ;
have ready a frying kettle about half full of fat and place this over the fire. While
the fat is heating, prepare a dish of beaten raw eggs and a platter full of bread-
crumbs or cracker dust; roll the clams in the crumbs, then dip them in the beaten
eggs ; roll thern once more in crumbs, and when the fat is smoking hot, place them
in it and fry to a golden brown. Take them out with a skimmer, lay them on brown
paper to drain off the fat and serve hot. They may be sent to the table with a gar-
nish of lemon cut in quarters or a dish of sliced fresh or pickled cabbage.
Soft Clams, Newburg.
Thoroughly clean and remove all sand from about forty to forty-five soft fresh
clams, place them in a stewpan with one ounce of butter, half a pinch of white
pepper, a wineglassful of Madeira wine and a couple of well-hashed truffles, place on
the lid and cook gently for about eight minutes ; then break three egg yolks into a
bowl, add a pint of sweet cream and beat thoroughly for about three minutes, then
pour it over the clams, stir gently the clams for three minutes longer and pour them
into a hot tureen, sending to table at once.
SHELL-FISH. 93
Stewed Soft Clams.
Thoroughly wash about three and a half dozen of fresh soft clams so that no sand
remains on them after they are opened, lay them carefully on the palm of the left
hand, and with the right hand remove the body with care, but nothing more, being
cautious not to break it and throwing away all the other parts. When all are pre-
pared place them in a stewpan with one ounce of butter, a small pinch of white pepper,
one wineglassful of Madeira wine and two finely-hashed medium sized truffles ; place
the cover on the pan and cook gently for seven or eight minutes. Break the yolks of
three eggs into a bowl, add one pint of sweet cream and beat well for three minutes.
Pour this over the clams and toss the saucepan for about three minutes more very
gently to thoroughly mix the clams with -the cream but not letting the liquor boil
again. Neither fork nor spoon should ever be used in mixing them. Pour the whole
into a hot dish and serve at once.
Crabs.
Crabs are in season from April to September, and in May they lose entirely the
dryness of flesh for which they are noted during the winter months. The richest
flavored crabs are those of medium size, say from six to ten inches in their broadest
diameter. They should be boiled alive, being plunged into cold water, and, as the
water warms, a handful or so of salt should be thrown in upon them, and when the
water has been boiling for twenty minutes or half an hour, according to the size of
the crabs, they may be considered sufficiently cooked. If placed in hot water at
first, they are apt to throw off their claws by a violent jerk, and then the water would
soak into the flesh and make it sloppy. After the salt is thrown in, the scum which
rises to the top of the water should be carefully skimmed off. The claws of large
crabs should be tied to prevent their opening and pinching or injuring each other.
Crabs are usually sold ready boiled, which is, of course, a great convenience to the
cook, whose next care is that of selection. The best crabs are always heavy, accord-
ing to size ; the claws and legs should be all on. They should be firm and stiff, and
the eyes bright rather than dull. The male crab has larger claws than the female,
but less body in proportion, therefore selection should depend upon whether the pref-
erence leans to white meat or to the more mellow liver and creamy fat which sur-
rounds it. The female also has a much broader tail than the male.
Buttered Crab.
Remove the meat from a large boiled crab, cut it up small and mix with bread-
crumbs and chopped parsley, having about a third of the bulk of the crab meat.
Season and put a few pieces of butter over it ; pack it back in the shell, pour over a
little lemon juice, cover with a layer of sifted breadcrumbs, place a few more lumps
of butter on the top, set in a slow oven and cook until done.
94 SHELL-FISH.
Crab Croquettes. >
Remove the meat from the shells of two medium-sized crabs, and chop it fairly
fine. Melt in a saucepan three ounces of butter, and stir into this three ounces of
flour. Add gradually one-half pint of milk, stir until it boils, and then allow it to
cook for ten minutes; remove the saucepan from the stove, and to the hot milk, flour
and butter add the chopped meat of the crabs, one saltspoonful of pepper, one tea-
spoonful of salt, a small quantity of cayenne (not more than would lie on the end of
a small knife blade), mix thoroughly together, turn the whole out on to a plate and
let it cool; when it is fairly cold make it into little rolls nearly three inches long, and
egg and breadcrumb these by brushing them all over with beaten egg and then rolling
in breadcrumbs. Fry them in hot lard or clarified fat for two minutes, or until they
are a nice golden brown, allow them to drain on a sheet of paper for an instant and
serve on a folded napkin with a little fried parsley for garnish.
Deviled Crabs.
Put one-half pound of butter into a saucepan with one tablespoonful of flour, and
cook together, stirring it continually to prevent its burning; add to it one large tumbler-
ful of rich cream, one boiled soft onion mashed to a paste or pulp, a little grated nut-
meg, and season with salt and cayenne pepper. Then put in the crab meat, enough
to fill eight crab shells and a raw egg or two, stir all together well and cook until it
begins to thicken, which will only take a few minutes; then pour it all on a flat dish
and allow it to stand until cold. Now fill the back crab shells with the mixture, egg
them over with a brush and cover with grated breadcrumbs or cracker dust. Place
them in a bakingpan, put a small lump of butter on top of each, and bake in a slow
oven to a light brown color, or fry them in plenty of hot lard.
Crabs in Shells.
Boil a few crabs, pick out the meat and place the coral on one side. Chop up
the meat, add to it one onion, ground ginger, lemon juice, mushroom catsup, salt and
pepper ; put the mixture into a fryingpan with butter and cook until the butter is
absorbed. Pour in a little stock, boil until nearly evaporated, then remove the pan
from the fire. Butter five of the crab shells and fill them with the mixture. Grind
the coral, mingle it with some breadcrumbs, sprinkle this over the mixture, put a few
small lumps of butter on the tops, place the shells in the oven, and bake for a few
minutes.
Minced Crabs.
Place the finely chopped meat of three crabs into a saucepan, pour over one wine-
glassful of white wine and one of vinegar, and season to taste with salt, pepper, and
cayenne pepper. Cook over a moderate fire for about ten minutes, and add two
SHELL-FISH. 95
ounces of warmed butter, mixed with one boned anchovy, and stir in the well beaten
yolks of two eggs. Sprinkle in sufficient breadcrumbs to thicken properly, turn the
whole out on to a dish, and serve with parsley for a garnish.
Crabs, Queen Style.
Pick about a dozen hard-shell boiled crabs into as large pieces as possible ;
mix them in a salad bowl, with one-half breakfast cupful of sliced celery or shredded
lettuce, one-half pinch of pepper, one pinch of salt, one tablespoonful of olive oil, and
one and one-half tablespoonfuls of vinegar. Refill six well cleaned shells with the
salad, and on each one lay one tablespoonful of mayonnaise sauce ; and sprinkle over
with chopped hard boiled egg, the yolk separated from the white, some crab or lob-
ster coral, and one teaspoonful of chopped parsley, every article to be used sepa-
rately in order that each color may be distinct. Serve on a dish with a folded
napkin, or ornamental dish-paper.
Crab Ravigote.
Boil some large hard-shell crabs, after which put them aside to become cold.
Then turn them over on the hard shell side and with a sharp knife cut the breast
away. Pick the meat off, clean it nicely, being careful not to leave any pieces of
shell in it, and season lightly with salt and pepper. Mix with thick remoulade sauce
and fill up one of the shells, which has previously been washed clean, with the mix-
ture. The meat of two good-sized crabs so treated will be sufficient to fill the inside
of one shell. Cover the meat with mayonnaise and decorate with fillet of anchovy
and sliced pickles. Serve on a folded napkin with branches of parsley and quartered
lemon.
Stewed Crabs.
Take eight live crabs and steam for twenty minutes; pick out the meats, put it
in a saucepan with one-half pint of milk or cream and stew for fifteen or twenty min-
utes. Season with cayenne pepper and salt.
Broiled Soft-Shell Crabs.
Dip some soft-shell crabs into melted butter and season with pepper and salt.
Then put them on the fire and broil them until the shells are slightly brown. As
soon as they are done serve them hot with melted butter or lemon juice or with a
lemon cut into quarters. Slices of hot dry toast may be laid under them
Fried Soft-Shell Crabs.
Have a dish of cracker dust mixed with a little pepper and on the stove a pan
half full of smoking hot fat; beat two eggs, roll the crabs in the crumbs and dip them
96 SHELL-FISH.
in the eggs, then roll them again in the crumbs and put in the hot fat to fry. Take
them out with a skimmer, lay on brown paper to free them from grease and serve
them while hot.
Stewed Soft-Shell Crabs with Okras.
Brown in a saucepan with one-half ounce or so of butter a chopped onion, an
ounce or more of raw ham cut into dice, half of a green pepper pod, also cut into
dice, one-half tablespoonful of salt and one teaspoonful of pepper. Moisten with
about one quart of white broth or consomme, add a tablespoonful of uncooked rice,
six sliced okras, also a sliced tomato. Allow all these to cook thoroughly for about
twenty minutes, and five minutes before serving add the meat of three well-washed,
minced, soft-shell crabs.
Fried Oyster Crabs.
Wash and dry about one and one-half pints of oyster crabs, dip them first in
flour, and then in cold milk, and finally in cracker dust or well sifted breadcrumbs.
Shake them up well in a colander, and fry in hot fat for two or three minutes. Serve
in croustades made of short paste, garnish with parsley, and sprinkle a little salt over
before serving.
Stewed Oyster Crabs, Poulette Style.
Remove all the meat from a pint and a half of oyster crabs, put it into a sauce-
pan, pouring on a little of their liquor, and add to this one ounce of butter, pepper
and salt ; parboil for three or four minutes, add carefully one breakfast cupful of
Hollandaise sauce, stew for two or three minutes longer, but do not boil, add the
juice of half a lemon and one teaspoonful of finely chopped parsley ; stir gently, and
it will then be ready for use.
Crayfish Boiled in Court Bouillon.
Put some butter in a stewpan, and add a little celery root, onion and leek, all
finely minced, place the pan on a moderate fire and fry them. Then add a little
white wine, salt, a small bunch of parsley, and a few peppercorns. Boil for seven or
eight minutes, and then throw in twenty-five live crayfish; cover over the pan and
boil for eight minutes longer. Toss them in the pan a little, remove, place on a
strainer to drain, and then on a dish. Strain the liquid, reduce it by boiling to half
its original quantity, add a small piece of butter, and pour it over.
Crayfish, Bordelaise Style.
Place two dozen selected crayfish in a pan with water and a little milk mixed,
and allow them to soak for two or three hours; then remove them and place on a
strainer to drain. In the meantime make a good mirepoix of vegetables with Bor-
SHELL-FISH. 97
deaux wine, and add to the liquor a bunch of parsley, a slice of raw ham, one small
wineglassful of cognac, two or three tablespoonfuls of Madeira and a little salt. Put
the lid on the stewpan, place it on the fire, and let boil five or seven minutes; when it.
is boiling hot throw in the crayfish, and leave for ten minutes, after which pour the
liquor through a sieve; reduce it to half, adding slowly one pint of veloute sauce.
When sufficiently reduced strain it through a cloth into another pan, and stir in one-
fourth pound of good butter, a small piece of crayfish butter, and one tablespoonful
of finely chopped parsley. Remove the small claws, put them in a group in the center
of the dish, and arrange the bodies round, garnishing all with a few sprigs of parsley.
The sauce must be served separately.
Crayfish Mariniere.
Remove the small claws from a dozen or two of crayfish, place them in a stew-
pan, and boil with wine until done. Drain off the liquor, allow it to settle, and then
pass it through a fine sieve to clarify it. Take an onion, chop it up finely, and fry
gently so that it does not color at all. Pour on a little of the crayfish liquor and also
a little wine, and boil for three minutes. Next put in a lump of butter worked into
some breadcrumbs and finely-chopped parsley to thicken it, and finally add a little
cayenne and the juice of a lemon. Place the crayfish on a dish and pour the sauce
over.
Crayfish Patties.
Place two dozen crayfish into a stewpan with a little salt, a few peppercorns,
some finely chopped vegetables, a bunch of parsley and a little vinegar or white wine ;
cover over the pan, place it on a good fire and when the fish have cooled a little re-
move the meat from the tails and claws and cut it up into small pieces, placing them
in a small stewpan and thickening with a little white sauce. When wanted for serving
fill a dozen or so of (bouchees) patties with the preparation and garnish with lobster
coral and parsley.
Timbale of Crayfish.
In order to have this dish sufficient for a large party a great number of crayfish
are required for it. Having picked out the tails of something like one hundred and
fifty crayfish, brush each "one over with some warmed crayfish butter. Have ready
some very c'vear savoury jelly and a large timbale mould ; warm the jelly to the liquid
state, pick up each tail with a larding needle and dip into the jelly ; then arrange them
neatly around the mould ; the jelly will cause them to adhere. When the top is
reached (remember the mound will be upside down and should be packed in ice)
leave the jelly fixing the tails to set. Pick out all the meat from the claws and bodies
and chop up very finely ; mix this mince with enough warm jelly to fill the timbale
and leave that also to set. When the jelly is firm, dip the mould for an instant in tepid
9 8 SHELL-FISH.
water, wipe it and then turn the timbale out on to a dish. Garnish with croutons of
jelly and an attelette decorated with truffles.
Edible Snails.
Snails are cleaned by placing them in boiling water with some wood ashes and
leaving them until they have thrown their cover wide open which will take about a quar-
ter of an hour ; they should then be removed and picked carefully out of their shells
with a fork. Put them in a basin of tepid water and leave for two or three hours.
Afterwards rub them well in the hands and wash them in several changes of cold
water, The shells are put in warm water, scrubbed with a brush and then wiped dry.
Baked Edible Snails.
Work one tablespoonful of chopped parsley into two ounces of butter, and season
with one saltspoonful of salt, one-half saltspoonful of pepper, and a small quantity
of grated nutmeg. Put a piece of the prepared butter into each of the shells (there
should be about twenty-five shells for the above quantity of butter), then put a snail
into each of the shells, and another piece of butter on top. Lay the snails close
together in a cast iron pan, the mouths of the snails upwards, and not one upon
another ; cover the pan so as to render it air tight, and put it into a moderate oven.
When the parsley begins to look dark, the snails will be sufficiently cooked. Arrange
the snails on a hot dish with a folded napkin, leaving them in their shells, and serve
as hot as possible.
Edible Snails, Bourgoyne.
Take some Bourgoyne edible snails, disgorge them with a little salt for two or
three days, wash several times in cold water, strain and place them in a stewpan
covering them with water. Add a bunch of sweet herbs, some cloves and whole
pepper tied in a cloth, and salt to taste ; cook until the snails fall from their
shells, empty them, clipping off their tails, and cleaning the shells well. Mix together
some shallots, parsley and butter, and chervil chopped very fine ; put this into a bowl
with an equal quantity of sifted breadcrumbs and one wineglassful of white wine,
season to taste with pepper and salt, and knead well. Partly fill the shells with this
mixture, replace the snails, and complete the filling with more of the kneaded butter ;
spread breadcrumbs over, and lay them on a baking dish, the opened part on the top.
Brown in the oven for four minutes, and serve on a dish with a folded napkin.
Baked Frogs' Legs.
Prepare and clean one dozen frogs' legs, put a thick layer of minced mushrooms
and sifted brown breadcrumbs in a baking dish, lay the pieces of legs on them, season
with salt and pepper, strew a few sweet herbs over, also more sifted crumbs, put two
or three small bits of lemon peel on the top, squeeze over the juice of a lemon, and
SHELL-FISH. 99
pour in about one breakfast cupful of brown gravy. Cover the whole with a sheet of
buttered paper and bake for half an hour in a moderate oven. When cooked, brown
them under a salamander, and serve in the same dish.
Broiled Frogs' Legs.
Prepare eighteen frogs as follows: Lay the frogs on their backs. Make a long
incision from the neck along the side of the belly; make another at right angles across
the middle of the belly, dissect cut the entrails and cut away the head, leaving only
the back and legs. Skin the frogs and chop off their feet, wash them thoroughly and
blanch in scalding salted water. Then lay the hindquarters on a dish and pour over
two tablespoonfuls of sweet oil, seasoning with salt and pepper and a little lemon
juice. Roll the frogs around several times in this seasoning, place on a broiler and
broil for four minutes on each side. Take them off, arrange on a hot dish and serve
with a gill of maitre d'hotel sauce poured over.
Fricasseed Frogs' Legs.
Prepare twelve saddles or hindquarters of frogs as above and put them in a flat-
bottomed saucepan with a little butter and a very small quantity of finely-minced
shallot. Place the pan on the fire and cook until the butter begins to brown, then
pour over a teacupful of sherry, cover the pan and stew for twenty minutes; skim off
most of the butter and add cayenne and salt to taste. Put the yolks of four eggs and
two tablespoonfuls of cream in the stock to thicken, mixing the eggs in a little of the
hot liquor before adding them, and as soon as the contents of the pan show signs of
boiling remove it from the fire. Place the frogs on a dish with the legs sticking out
all around and the thick part forming a circle in the center; strain the sauce and pour
it over them. The wine and eggs are not always used in the cooking.
Fried Frogs' Legs.
Prepare eighteen frogs' legs and put them in a bowl with a marinade composed
of one tablespoonful each of vinegar and sweet oil and salt and pepper to taste. Mix
well together in the bowl, immerse them in frying batter, plunge them singly into
very hot fat and fry for five minutes. Drain, arrange on a hot dish with a folded nap-
kin and garnish with parsley. Any desired sauce may be served with this dish.
Stewed Frogs' Legs.
Melt half an ounce of butter in a saucepan on the fire, and in it brown one
chopped onion, about one ounce of raw ham cut into dice, half a green pepper pod
cut small, half a tablespoonful of salt, and one teaspoonful of pepper; moisten with
one quart of white broth or consomme; add a tablespoonful of rice, six sliced gumbos
ioo SHELL-FISH.
and one sliced tomato, and cook thoroughly for about twenty minutes. Add a
quarter of prepared frogs' legs five minutes before serving. Turn out on a dish and
serve. If desired, one green pepper and two tomatoes may be substituted in place of
the gumbo.
Lobster, American Style.
Procure two good sized freshly boiled lobsters and split them, removing all of
the meat very carefully, and cut it up into pieces about an inch in length; and have
in readiness a pan on top of a range half full of good olive oil, and when the oil has
become very hot add pieces of the lobster. Chop very fine one peeled onion, one
green pepper, and half a peeled clove, some sound garlic, place it with the lobster
and cook for five minutes, stirring all the time; season with a pinch of salt and half
a saltspoonful of red pepper, to which add half a wineglassful of white wine. After
two minutes' reduction add one gill of tomato sauce and a medium sized peeled
tomato, cut into small dice. Continue cooking for ten minutes, gently stirring the
while, then pour the whole into a hot dish or tureen and serve.
Baked Lobsters.
Place a live lobster in boiling fish broth; when it is cooked, drain and split it in
half lengthwise, pick the meat out of the tail and claws, cut it in small pieces, and
mix in an equal quantity of mushrooms, also cut in dice. Place the coral of the
lobster in a mortar with a little butter, pound, and pass it through a fine hair sieve.
Put a few 'tablespoonfuls of bechamel sauce in a stewpan with a little cream and
melted glaze, stir over the fire until it is well reduced, then mix with it the pieces of
lobster and mushrooms, sprinkle in a little cayenne, and add the pounded coral.
Clean the two shells of the lobster, fill them with the preparation, sprinkle bread
crumbs on the top, pour a little warmed butter over each, and brown in the oven.
Place a folded napkin on a dish, lay the shells on it, and serve at once.
Boiled Lobster.
Place some water on the fire, and when it is boiling fast put the lobster in, head
first, so that it may be killed at once. Place the lid on and let the lobster boil for
half an hour. Take it out and leave it until well drained, then wipe off the scum and
rub it over with a little piece of butter tied in a cloth.
Lobster Bordelaise.
Cut some live lobsters into eight pieces, crack the claws without spoiling the
shape, put them in a saucepan and cover with white wine, a little garlic, two bay
leaves, a small bunch of parsley and thyme, and a little pepper and salt ; place the
lid on the saucepan and let the mixture boil for twenty-five minutes, stirring often to
SHELL-FISH. 101
prevent burning. When they are cooked take each piece of lobster out, dry in a
cloth, and replace them in a clean saucepan. Fry a few slices of onions and shallots
in butter, and when they are browned stir in a little flour, cook it, then pour in some
of the liquor in which the pieces of lobster were cooked. Stir over the fire for ten
minutes, then mix in a teacupful of tomato sauce, a pinch of cayenne, the pieces of
lobster, and warm them again. Arrange the lobster on a hot dish in such a way that
they will not have the appearance of being cut, put the claws around, pour over the
sauce and serve.
Broiled Lobster.
Take a live lobster, and after it has been boiled split it lengthwise, and pick out
all the uneatable parts ; open it flat, place two small pieces of butter on it, and dust
over with pepper ; place the halves of the lobster, just as they were in their shells,
on a gridiron, and heat slowly over a fire. When done put them with their shells on
a hot dish, garnish with parsley and serve.
Broiled Lobster Ravigote.
Cut three small raw lobsters each into two equal parts, taking out the gravel
from the head, season with salt and pepper, rub with a little oil and broil the pieces
for ten minutes. Remove them from the fire, take the meat from the heads of the
lobsters, put them in a salad bowl with half a pint of ravigote butter and mix them
well together; take the rest of the meat from the lobster, dip it in the sauce and
return it to the shell; then replace and warm it again for a few minutes in the oven
and serve on a folded napkin, garnish the shells with parsley and serve the sauce in
a boat.
Buttered Lobster.
Pick out all the meat of a lobster and mince it finely, mix it with the coral and
green inside, two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, a quarter of a pound of fresh butter and
one saltspoonful each of cayenne and made mustard; place this in a stewpan with the
chopped meat over the fire till thoroughly hot. Cut in quarters some lettuce, arrange
them on a dish, pour in'the hot lobster, put some quarters of hard boiled eggs on the
top and serve at once.
Lobster Cream.
Pick the meat from a boiled lobster and chop it small; place it in a saucepan,
season to taste with salt and pepper and a small quantity of grated nutmeg; moisten
with half a tablespoonful of vinegar and one teaspoonful of sherry, stir it over the
fire until hot, then dredge lightly with flour and add two ounces of butter and a tea-
cupful of cream. Stir the mixture while it is boiling and let it cook for ten minutes.
Wash the body shell of the lobster and dry well, then pour the mixture into. it.
Place the lobster on a fancy dish and serve it while very hot.
102 SHELL-FISH.
Lobster Croquettes.
Carefully pick the meat from a lobster, mince finely, and mix it with one heaped
teaspoonful of finely grated breadcrumbs, two tablespoonfuls of thick cream, the
strained juice of one lemon, one teaspoonful of anchovy sauce, a little grated nut-
meg, pepper and salt, and stir over the fire until it is very hot. Then take it off,
mix in the beaten yolk of one egg and leave until cold. Shape the lobster prepara-
tion into little balls, brush over with beaten eggs, plunge them into boiling fat and
fry. When they are cooked, drain and arrange them on a hot dish, garnish with fried
parsley and serve.
Curried Lobster.
Take the meat from some small lobsters and place it in a saucepan with one tea-
cupful each of gravy and cream, and half a blade of mace. Mix two teaspoonfuls of
curry powder with one teaspoonful of flour, and one ounce of butter, put in with the
lobster and simmer at the side of the fire for an hour. After it is done add some
lemon juice and a little salt. Turn it on to a hot dish and serve.
Lobster Cutlets.
Take out the meat from a large hen lobster or two small ones, place it in a
mortar with some of its coral, and pound, mixing with it a little powdered mace,
grated nutmeg, salt, pepper, and cayenne ; beat the yolks of two eggs and the white
of one together with a teaspoonful of anchovy sauce ; then mix them with the above
ingredients. Roll out, sprinkle a little flour over, and form it into the cutlets ; dip a
paste brush in beaten eggs, brush the cutlets over, roll them in breadcrumbs, and fry
in boiling butter. Put one pint of melted butter in a saucepan with the coral and a
teaspoonful of anchovy sauce, and make it hot. When the cutlets .are browned, drain,
arrange them in a circle on a hot dish, pour the sauce in the center and serve.
Deviled Lobster.
Put three minced shallots in a stewpan with two ounces of butter and the brown
meat of the crab; fry until the shallots are lightly browned, then pour in half a pint
of milk, add half a tablespoonful of chutney, and season with salt, pepper and a small
quantity of cayenne. Stir the whole over the fire until it- is thick, then put in the
lobster chopped. Have a metal table shell, fill it with the lobster mixture, strew a
layer of grated breadcrumbs over the top, baste with three tablespoonfuls of warmed
butter and brown in the oven. When done place the shell in the middle of the dish
and garnish with parsley.
Lobster Fricassee.
Partially boil some lobsters. Pick the meat out of the claws and tails and cut
Miem into small pieces, put it into a saucepan with two breakfast cupfuls of bechame.
SHELL-FISH. 103
sauce and let the contents stew gently for several minutes. Strain the juice of half
a lemon into the fricassee, turn it on to a hot dish and serve at once.
Fried Lobster.
Take the meat out of the tails and claws of a lobster and sprinkle with salt and
pepper. Dip a paste-brush in beaten egg, and brush the meat with it, then roll it in
breadcrumbs, and after they have dried on it repeat the operation. Place it in a fry-
ing basket, plunge it in boiling fat and fry until it is brown. Drain and place the
lobster on a hot dish and serve with a sauceboat of tartar sauce.
Lobster Fritters.
Chop the meat of a lobster and a few skinned prawns, put them in a stewpan
with a lump of butter and place on the fire until they are hot. Roll out some good
paste, cut it into rounds with a cutter, place them in a flat stewpan with boiling lard,
and fry until they are nicely browned ; drain, pile some of the lobster mixture on
each, arrange them- on a hot dish, garnish with parsley and serve.
Lobsters in Casserole.
Cut the tails of some boiled lobster into scallops, and place them in a circle
in a silver casserole. Fry some chopped shallots in a little butter for a few minutes,
then pour in a little sherry wine and finish cooking. When they are done pour over
the shallots some Spanish sauce and tomato puree, mixed in equal quantity, stir and
boil for five minutes, and dust in a little cayenne pepper. Cut the meats of the
lobster claws in small dices, put in the center of the casserole, pour over the sauce,
stand the casserole in the oven for ten minutes to warm the lobster and serve.
Lobster in Shells.
Cut an equal quantity of lobster meat and mushrooms into dice. Boil some
veloute sauce, together with some essence of mushrooms till properly reduced. Then
thicken it with fresh butter and lobster butter in equal proportions, and mix in the
lobster and mushrooms. Fill some table shells with the preparation, sprinkle bread-
crumbs over the top, pour over a little warmed butter, and bake in a hot oven until
browned. Place the shells on a hot dish and serve.
Lobster, Newburg.
Pick all the meat from the shells of two good sized freshly boiled lobsters, and
cut it into one-inch pieces, which place in a saucepan over a hot range together with
one ounce of fresh butter, season with a pinch of salt and half a saltspoonful of red
pepper, two medium-sized truffles, cut into dice-shaped pieces, after cooking for five
io 4 SHELL-FISH.
minutes add a wineglassful of Madeira wine; reduce one-half, say about three to four
minutes, then have in readiness three egg yolks in a bowl with "half a pint ot sweet
cream, and beat well together, adding this to the lobster, gently stir for two minutes
longer until it becomes thick, pour into a hot tureen and serve.
Lobster on Skewers.
Take a freshly boiled lobster, cut it into squares, lay them in a bowl to season,
with salt, a pinch of pepper, half a pinch of nutmeg, and a tablespoonful of Wor-
cestershire sauce; mix these ingredients well together. Have six skewers and arrange
on them first a piece of lobster, then a mushroom, another piece of lobster, then
another piece of mushroom, and so on. Lay them on the broiler and broil for eight
minutes. Take them off, dress on a hot dish on six slices of broiled bacon, pour
over a gill of maitre d'hotel butter, and serve while they are very hot.
Lobster Patties.
Take the flesh from the shell of a boiled lobster, cut it into small pieces, and
put them into a saucepan with some lobster sauce. Prepare some puff paste, give it
six turns, then roll it out flat on a floured table. With a fluted cutter cut out some
rounds, place them on a baking dish, lay them on ice for ten minutes, then brush
them over with a paste brush dipped in beaten egg. With a plain tin cutter cut
through a third of the thickness of the paste, dipping the cutter in warm water every
time; this will form the cover when baked. Place the patties in a quick oven and
bake them. When they are cooked lift off the inner circle of the patties, scoop out
a little of the soft paste inside, and smooth over the surface. Have the lobster
warmed, turn it into the patties, and put on the covers. Arrange them on a fancy
dish, and serve while they are very hot.
Lobster Rissoles.
Make a batter of flour, eggs and milk, allow to each egg one teaspoonful of
flour and two tablespoonfuls of milk. Pound the coral of a boiled lobster with the
yolks of two hard boiled eggs until smooth ; chop the meat of the lobster up fine,
season with pepper, a little pounded mace and salt, and mix with it the pounded coral
and egg. When the batter is well beaten and smooth, mix the lobster into it until
stiff enough to make into rolls. Fry them in salad-oil and serve either hot or cold
on a folded napkin. If served cold, garnish with fresh parsley, if hot, with fried
parsley.
Scalloped Lobster.
Select a nice fresh hen lobster and pick out all the flesh ; place the spawn in a
mortar with two ounces of butter and pound until smooth, then pass it through a fine
hair sieve. Mince the flesh of the lobster, and season with pepper, salt and a mod-
SHELL-FISH. 105
erate quantity of spice and a little cayenne pepper. Put the mince into a stewpan
with one-half tablespoonful of finely chopped parsley, the strained juice of a lemon,
a small lump of butter and two or three tablespoonfuls of thick cream. Stir the
mixture with a wooden spoon over the fire until very hot, then stir in the pounded
spawn. Fill some scallop shells with the mixture, levelling it smoothly over the top,
sprinkle over plenty of grated breadcrumbs and put a few small pieces of butter on
them. Place the scalloped lobster in the oven and bake until nicely browned. Serve
on a folded napkin.
Stewed Lobsters.
Remove the claws from four or five freshly boiled lobsters and split them in two
lengthwise ; pick the meat from the tails to trim it and arrange the pieces in a circle
on a hot dish, placing the claws in the center. Put one-fourth pint of melted meat
glaze in a small saucepan with two tablespoonfuls of sherry wine ; boil, and then
move the saucepan to the side of the fire. Mix three tablespoonfuls of bread-
crumbs with six tablespoonfuls of butter, a little chopped parsley and a little cayenne.
Add this gradually to the meat glaze mixture so as to thicken it ; mix with this the
creamy part that is taken from the body of the lobster, pounded, passed through a
sieve and worked up with two tablespoonfuls of vinegar. Pour this sauce over the lob-
ster and serve at once.
Stewed Lobster Bordelaise.
Add to one wineglassful of red wine in a stewpan one chopped shallot and half
of a small carrot, cut into exceedingly small pieces. Boil for five minutes, put in the
meat from two boiled lobsters, cut into pieces, which should weigh about one and
one-half pounds, one pinch of salt, one-third pinch of pepper, and a very little nut-
meg, and finally one-half pint of veloute sauce. Stew well together for five minutes
and serve very hot.
Lobster Vol-au-Vent.
Rub together four tablespoonfuls of butter and one and one-half tablespoonfuls
of flour. Pour on this by degrees one pint of boiling white stock, boil up, and add
the juice of half a lemon, a little salt, a few grains of cayenne, the yolks of two eggs
beaten in a little cold water, and the meat of two small lobsters cut into dice. Stir
over the fire for one minute, fill a vol-au-vent case, place the cover on and serve.
Fried Mussels.
Pick some mussels out of their" shells : remove their beards, dip them in milk,
cover with breadcrumbs well seasoned with salt and pepper, and fry in a fryingpan
until they are of a light brown color, place them on a dish in a warm place, pour a
little of their liquor in a pan, add a little pepper and salt, if required, and sprinkle in
a few breadcrumbs, and then add a little butter. When it is quite hot pour it over
io6 SHELL-FISH.
the mussels and serve at once. The mussels may be previously pickled, but it is not
necessary.
Mussels in Shells.
Procure some small mussels, they being the most delicate, scrape the shells and
wash them in several waters, to remove all the grit. Put the mussels in a stewpan
with one sliced onion, a small bunch of parsley, and one pint of French white wine ;
season with pepper and salt, stand the pan over the fire till the shells open, when the
mussels will be done. Take them cut of their shells, clean thoroughly, and cut them
into halves ; strain the cooking liquor of the mussels into another saucepan, mix with
it an equal quantity of veloute sauce, and boil until reduced to about half of its
original quantity. Thicken the sauce with a lump of butter or a liaison of two yolks
of eggs, stirring by the side of the fire and not allowing it to boil after the eggs are
added ; put the mussels in the sauce with one tablespoonful of chopped parsley. Fill
some silver shells with the above mixture, cover with finely grated breadcrumbs, put
a small bit of butter on the top of each, and brown in the oven ; when cooked, arrange
the shells on an ornamental dish paper or a folded napkin that has been placed on a
hot dish, garnish with neat sprigs of fried parsley, arranging it here and there between
the shells, and serve.
Mussels, Matelote.
Wash and clean some mussels, put them into a saucepan over a clear fire, and
toss or hustle them until the shells open. Turn the mussels into a colander placed
over a pan, so as to save all their liquor, and remove the half shells, beards, etc. ;
put two tablespoonfuls of chopped shallots and a clove of garlic into a saucepan with
a little butter, and fry without letting them take color ; put in the mussels, pour over
one wineglassful of wine and the mussel liquor, place the pan over the fire, boil for a
few minutes, thicken with a piece of butter kneaded with finely minced breadcrumbs,
parsley and a little cayenne, and toss the pan for a little while longer until all the
butter is melted. Put them in a metal dish, pour over the liquor, stand in another
dish, garnish with fried parsley, and serve very hot.
Mussels, Poulette Style.
Take some mussels that have been hustled or plainly cooked, remove the half
shell that does not contain the fish, take off the beard and weed, remove any young
crabs there may be, and put them on a dish either piled up or packed closely together.
In the meantime prepare a little melted butter, made with the mussel liquor instead
of water and a good quantity of butter, and sprinkle over a little pepper and sufficient
vinegar to give it a sharp taste ; make this mixture hot, pour it over the mussels and
serve at once. Nutmeg, mace, or chopped parsley and chives may be added to the
sauce if desired to heighten the flavor.
SHELL-FISH. 107
Scalloped Mussels.
Put some mussels into a saucepan and toss them over a quick fire for a few
minutes until the meat will come away easily from the shells. Take out the beards,
weeds, etc., remove the fish from their shells, squeeze all the liquor out of them,
and add to it that which came from them while being cooked : strain it into a sauce-
pan, put in the mussels and warm them up, adding a little flour, butter, grated nut-
meg and pepper ; care must be taken not to let them boil and not to use any salt, as
they generally contain sufficient. Clean some scallop shells, cover them with bread-
crumbs, put a layer of the mussels over it, then another layer of breadcrumbs and
another of mussels ; moisten them with a few tablespoonfuls of the liquor, put a
layer of crumbs on top, place on it a few pieces of butter, scatter over a little dried
parsley, and put them in an oven to cook until they are a bright brown. They may
be browned in a salamander instead of the oven, if desired, and must be served hot.
Stewed Mussels, Mariniere.
Steam three dozen mussels in a saucepan for about ten minutes, without any
water. Take them out, remove half of their shells, put them into a saucepan with
two ounces of fresh butter, a small quantity of chives and finely-chopped chervil, a
very little pepper and a teacupful of finely-sifted breadcrumbs ; pour over one-half
breakfast cupful of water and boil for two minutes longer. Turn the whole into a
dish, squeeze over the juice of one-half of a lemon, and serve. The mussels should
be arranged in the dish with the half shells downwards. Garnish with parsley and
quarters of lemons.
Mussels, Villeroy.
Wash and thoroughly cleanse some mussels, changing the water five or six times,
if necessary, and remove the sinewy strings that are to be found inside, put them
into a saucepan, pour over a wineglassful of white wine, toss them over a fire until
the shells open, then turn them into a colander over a pan and let them drain.
Pull them out of their shells, and when they are cool dip them into a little villeroy
sauce ; arrange on a baking sheet, and when the sauce has cooled sprinkle them
over with breadcrumbs, repeating it to have them thoroughly covered. Plunge
them into a fryingpan of boiling fat, fry to a light brown color, then take them out,
drain, put them on a napkin on a dish, and serve with a garnish of fried parsley.
Oysters.
Oysters are in season eight months in the year, .he four " close " months being
May, June, July, and August; the other months having the letter " r " in their spell-
ing, accounts for the saying that oysters are in season when there is an " r " in the
month. The oyster (ostrea edulis) is found on almost every coast, being especially
io8 SHELL-FISH.
cultivated in certain localities, and yielding enormous crops, as it is estimated that
one oyster alone produces in one year from three to four thousand young. The
system of cultivation has been brought to great perfection, and the superior kinds of
oysters are carefully preserved from contamination with inferior sorts. Of the
numerous kinds of oysters sold in our markets, it is only necessary to state that those
possessing the smallest, smoothest and cleanest looking shells, from the high class
native, down to the lowest types, are the best flavored. For serving plain, no oyster
excels the blue points, but for cooking a coarser and cheaper kind may be used with
almost as good results. Oysters must be kept alive, and as they are liable to fret and
waste in substance while in captivity, they require frequent change of water, and
occasional feeding or fattening as it is called. The following is the system usually
adopted: Take some fresh oysters, put them in a tub of water, wash or scrub them
with a birch or heather broom until they are quite clean, then lay them in an earthen-
ware pan with the flat shell upwards; sprinkle them with flour or oatmeal, and cover
with salted water (quite as salt as sea- water), bay salt being the best for this purpose.
Change the salt water every day and sprinkle the oysters with oatmeal or flour, and
they will fatten. Sometimes it is necessary to preserve oysters for culinary use,
especially in localities where they are scarce or the supplies insufficient. When this
is the case, the following will be found an excellent method of preparing them so that
they will keep good, although not fresh, and be always ready for use.
Clean the oysters thoroughly, put them in a large saucepan with some sea-water,
the juice of half a lemon, and some grated nutmeg. When the water is on the point
of boiling move the saucepan off the fire, and leave the oysters in the liquor till the
following day. Put them into stone or earthenware jars, pour over some clarified
butter, and when cold, cover and tie the jars down; keep them in a cool place.
Oysters should be kept in a very cold place, and should be thoroughly washed before
they are opened; they should, according to the French custom, be opened on the
deep shell so as to preserve their liquor; it is then advisable, if possible, to lay them
on a bed of finely chopped ice for an hour or so before serving; this improves the
flavor greatly, but they must not be left on the ice much longer, for after that time
they will begin to lose flavor, instead of gaining it.
Oysters, American Style.
Place in a sauce bowl one heaped teaspoonful of salt, three-fourths teaspoonful
of very finely ground white pepper, one medium sized fine, sound, well peeled shallot,
one heaped teaspoonful of chives, and one-half teaspoonful of parsley, all very finely
chopped. Mix lightly together, and then pour in one teaspoonful of olive oil, six
drops of Tobasco sauce, one saltspoonful of Worcestershire sauce, and lastly one gill
(or five and one-half tablespoonfuls) of good vinegar. Mix it thoroughly with a
spoon, and it is ready for use. A teaspoonful should be poured over each oyster just
before eating.
SHELL-FISH 109
Baked Oysters.
Put in a small lined stewpan a quarter of a pound of butter and one teacupful of
cream, stirring them well over a fire until thoroughly mingled. Add one wineglassful
of wine, one tablespoonful of anchovy sauce and a small quantity each of cayenne
pepper and grated lemon peel, and continue stirring over the fire until hot. Pour
half of this mixture into a dish and lay the oysters on it. Strew Parmesan cheese
and breadcrumbs over, with a little salt and pepper, pouring on the remainder of the
cream and butter, with another thin layer of crumbs and cheese on top. Bake until
nicely browned in a brisk oven and serve while hot.
Baked Oysters in their Shells.
Open some oysters, remove the beards and dip them first in beaten egg and then
in finely grated breadcrumbs that have been seasoned with pepper, salt and grated
nutmeg. Place the oysters in their lower shells, put a small piece of butter on each,
and bake for a few minutes in a brisk oven. When ready, place the shells with the
oysters on a dish, squeeze a small quantity of lemon juice over each, and serve.
Baked Oysters on Toast.
Beard two dozen fine oysters, put their beards and liquor into a stewpan, and let
them simmer for a few minutes. Butter some toasts thickly on one side, lay them
buttered side downwards on a dish that will stand the heat of the fire and put the oys-
ters on top. Strain the oyster liquor and mix with it one ounce of butter in small
bits, season to taste with salt and a small quantity of cayenne pepper and pour it over
the oysters. Place the dish in a brisk oven for a few minutes, then take it out and
serve the oysters very hot with a plate of cut lemon.
Oyster Bouchees.
Blanch two dozen oysters and turn ten mushrooms, cut both into small pieces,
put them into a saucepan with some white sauce and stir over the fire till hot. Pre-
pare some puff paste, giving it six turns, roll it out to about one-fourth inch in thick-
ness, and with a fluted tin cutter, about two inches in diameter, cut eighteen rounds
out of the paste. Arrange the pieces of paste on a baking sheet, let them rest on ice
for ten minutes, then brush over with beaten egg, and with a plain tin cutter one and
one-fourth inches in diameter cut through the center of each bouchee to about one-
third of the thickness of the paste. Bake the bouchees in a quick oven, and when
cooked lift off the inner circle of the paste and hollow them out inside. Fill the
bouchees with the salpicon of oysters and mushrooms and replace the covers. Place
a folded napkin or an ornamental dish-paper on a hot dish, arrange the bouchees on
it, garnish with fried parsley and serve.
no SHELL-FISH.
Broiled Oysters.
Take some fine large-sized oysters, lay them on a soft cloth to dry, pepper over,
and then place them on a well buttered gridiron over a clear fire and leave till thor-
oughly hot. Lay them then on slices of well buttered toast cut rather thin and serve
while hot.
Broiled Oysters, Breaded.
Take freshly opened oysters and an equal quantity of bread and cracker crumbs,
flatten them on a well greased broiler and broil for two minutes on each side. Salt
slightly and arrange on the toast, then lightly glaze them over with maitre d'hotel
sauce and serve.
Broiled Oysters, in the Shell.
Put a couple of dozen large oysters on a gridiron over a moderate fire, with the
flat shell uppermost; when done they will open. Keep the liquor in the shells and
serve hot.
Oyster Cocktail.
Open half a dozen small oysters and drop them with the juice into a wine glass;
add a little lemon juice, three drops of Tobasco sauce, a teaspoonful of Worcester-
shire sauce and one dessertspoonful of tomato catsup, stir well and serve. Horse-
radish may be served on the side.
Oyster Cromeskies.
Scald the required number of oysters in their own liquor and put them between
slices of bacon cut very thin. Two oysters are quite sufficient for one slice of bacon.
Roll the bacon over and fasten the oysters in with a small skewer. Fry them to a
nice brown, place them on a dish and serve hot.
Oyster Croquettes.
Blanch six dozen oysters, trim and chop the meat into small pieces, put these
into a saucepan with one-third the bulk of mushrooms cooked and cut into small
pieces. Set one pint of bechamel sauce in a saucepan over a clear fire, reduce it,
stirring frequently, add a few tablespoonfuls of the oyster liquor and a little cream.
When it is well reduced and begins to froth, add a liaison made of the yolks of three
eggs to thicken it, and lastly add a small quantity of butter. Stir in the oyster mix-
ture, turn it out into a basin, and let it get quite cold, placing the basin if necessary
on ice. Take out small quantities, about the size of an egg, roll them on a board
sprinkled with breadcrumbs, make them round with spoons, and dip them first into
well beaten egg and then into breadcrumbs. Have ready a fryingpan of boiling fat,
SHELL-FISH. in
plunge them in a few. at a time, and when they are done and of a good color take them
out, drain, arrange them on a napkin spread over a dish, and serve with a garnish of
fried parsley.
Oyster Croustade.
Beard and cut some oysters into halves and put in a stewpan with their strained
liquor, one wineglassful of white wine, and a moderate quantity of gravy; season to
taste with salt, pepper, and a small quantity each of grated lemon peel and pounded
mace. Stew them gently, and when done place in them about one ounce of butter in
small lumps. Cut off the tops of some small French rolls, scooping out the crumb,
and put them into a stewpan of boiling butter, and fry until crisp and brown. Rub
the crumbs of the rolls up finely and fry them also. Drain the rolls and fill them
with the oyster mixture, placing on a hot dish with the crumbs around it, and serve.
Curried Oysters.
Peel and cut into thin slices a moderate sized Spanish onion; put a lump of
butter into a stewpan, place it over the fire, and when the butter boils put in the onion
and fry it until nicely browned. Next stir in three tablespoonfuls of curry powder,
add more butter if necessary, and mix well over the fire. Pour in gradually a
sufficient quantity of broth, put the lid on the pan and let the whole boil up. Grate
a cocoanut and peel and chop a very sour apple, or, instead of the apple, a few
tamarinds would be best if they could be obtained; put them into the stewpan with
the other ingredients, and boil the whole slowly until the cocoanut is tender. Mix
two tablespoonfuls of flour smooth with a little water, and stir it into the above
mixture; season to taste with salt, stir and boil for five minutes. Put two or three
tomatoes, freed from their seeds, into a stewpan with a hundred oysters and their
liquor, also the milk of the cocoanut. Stir them occasionally, and stew slowly for a
few minutes. Add this to the former mixture. Squeeze in the juice of half a lemon,
turn the curry on to a hot dish, garnish with croutons of fried bread, or sippets of
toast, and serve with a separate dish of rice.
Oyster Fricassee.
Open and beard some oysters, put them into a stewpan with their own liquor,
one ounce of butter and the strained juice of half a lemon; season them with a small
quantity each of cayenne pepper and grated nutmeg and let them simmer gently by
the side of the fire for a few minutes. Do not cook them too much or they will
shrivel up. Beat the yolks of three eggs together with three tablespoonfuls of sherry,
strain and pour in with the oysters. Toss the whole over the fire for a minute, then
turn them on to a dish and serve.
u 2 SHELL-FISH.
Fried Oysters.
Select large oysters and drain them; mix one tablespoonful of flour smoothly
with one-half teacupful of milk, grate some stale breadcrumbs on a sheet of paper
and season with salt and pepper; roll the oysters first in the paste and then in the
breadcrumbs, covering well but touching them as little as possible. Lay them on a
plate and leave them for several minutes. Beat one or two eggs thoroughly, roll the
oysters in it one at a time, then roll them again in the seasoned breadcrumbs. Put
a large lump of lard in a frying pan over the fire and when blue smoke arises put in
the oysters and fry them until nicely browned. Take each oyster as it is cooked out
of the fat and lay it on a sheet of paper in front of the fire to drain. Spread a folded
napkin or an ornamental dish-paper over a hot dish, pile the oysters upon it, garnish
with fried parsley and serve.
Fried Oysters and Bacon.
Open and remove the beards from one dozen oysters, cut as many thin slices of
bacon as there are oysters, trim neatly and lay an oyster on each, rolling them up and
fasten with a skewer. Fry each roll carefully and nicely. Cut as many rounds of
bread about a third of an inch thick and two inches in diameter as there are rolls of
bacon, toast them evenly on both sides and butter them. Spread a folded napkin or
fancy edged dish-paper on a hot dish, place the pieces of toast upon it with a roll on
each, garnish with fried parsley and serve.
Fried Deviled Oysters.
Take one pint of oysters or sufficient to make a good dish, wipe them dry and
lay them on a flat dish ; cover with butter well-warmed and mixed with cayenne
pepper and lemon juice, turn them over and over in this mixture for ten minutes, then
roll them in a paper of rolled crackers or sifted breadcrumbs ; dip them into beaten
egg and again roll them in the crumbs, fry them in boiling lard and butter mixed and
serve as hot as possible.
Fried Oyster Patties.
Make some good puff paste, roll it out rather thin and cut it into round pieces.
Chop some oysters, mix them with some chopped hard boiled egg, a little chopped
parsley and a little grated lemon peel ; add a seasoning of pepper, salt and a little
pounded mace, moisten the mixture with cream and a little oyster liquor, then put a
good spoonful on each piece of paste, fold it over, moisten the edges with a little
cream and press them together. Brush the patties over with the yolk of an egg and
fry them for fifteen minutes.
SHELL-FISH.
Fried Truffled Oysters.
Chop six ounces of the cooked breast of a fowl and three ounces of raw fat salt
pork, put this into a mortar with a little pepper and pound it. Chop a few truffles
the size of peas and mix in. Put four dozen oysters on a cloth and with a sharp knife
inserted at the edge of one of them make an opening up and down inside, but not to
make the hole too large and fill them with the mixture. Put them when all done into
a basin of flour, coat them well over, dip them into well-beaten egg, plunge them into
a fryingpan of boiling fat and fry to a light golden color. Remove, drain on a cloth
in a slow oven, sprinkle over with salt, arrange them on pieces of toast on a dish and
serve.
Oyster Fritters.
Separate the yolk and white of an egg, beating the yolk well and mixing with it
two tablespoonfuls each of ground rice and salad oil, three-fourths of a tablespoonful
of vinegar, and a small quantity of cold water. Mix smoothly and allow the batter
to stand for half an hour. Open and beard the oysters, whisk the whites of the eggs
to a stiff snow, and mix them in lightly with the batter. Then place a large lump
of clarified fat in a flat stewpan over a fire until it boils. Take the oysters, one at
a time, in a tablespoon and fill it with the batter, pouring it into the boiling fat.
Fry until nicely browned, then drain well, spreading on a folded napkin or orna-
mental dish-paper over a hot dish, pile the fritters in the center, garnish with cut
lemons, and serve with a plate of thin slices of brown bread and butter.
Oysters in Cases.
Open and blanch a couple of dozen medium-sized oysters in a saucepan with one
wineglassful of white wine and half an ounce of butter, and season with a pinch of
pepper and a little nutmeg. Cook for five minutes, and add one pint of well reduced
veloute sauce ; cooking for another five minutes, and adding half an ounce of cray-
fish butter and stirring occasionally. Fill the cases with four oysters each and the
garnishing equally divided. Sprinkle over a little fresh breadcrumbs, and arrange
them on a toasting pan. Spread a little butter over each patty, and place in a mod-
erate oven for five minutes. Have a hot dish at hand with a folded napkin spread
over it ; place the patties on it and serve.
Oysters, Indian Style.
Put one-half tablespoonful each of curry powder and flour in a small saucepan ;
mix in gradually a teacupful of cream, one tablespoonful of finely chopped onion and
a small quantity of finely chopped apple, season to taste with salt and pepper, and
stew the whole gently for twenty minutes, stirring occasionally. Put a teacupful of
well washed rice in a saucepan of water and boil until tender. The rice should be
u 4 SHELL-FISH.
quite dry when cooked. Put a dozen oysters in the sauce, add a little lemon juice,
and leave until hot. Make a wall of the rice on a hot dish, and pour the oysters in
the center. Serve while very hot.
Oysters in the Shell.
Put a dozen or so of large oysters on a gridiron over a moderate fire with the
flat shell uppermost ; when done they will open. Preserve the liquor in the shells
with the oysters and serve them hot.
Oyster Patties.
Turn a couple of dozen oysters into a basin with their liquor. Put one ounce
of butter into a saucepan and work it together with a tablespoonful of flour into a
smooth paste ; when warm add a little mace, cayenne, and salt, and pour in gradually
three tablespoonfuls of cream. Boil for a few minutes and pour in the strained
liquor from the oysters, add the oysters last, and boil for a couple of minutes
longer. Line some small patty pans with some thin puff paste, put a quantity of
rice in each to keep them in shape, cover the top with more of the paste and
bake in a brisk oven. Take them out, remove the top, empty out the rice, fill them
with the oysters and a little of the liquor, cover and serve.
Oyster Pie.
Line a pie dish with puff paste, and fill it with slices of stale bread ; butter the
paste that covers the edge of the dish, lay a cover of puff paste over the pie, press
the edges very lightly together, trim them, and bake quickly in a hot oven. Mean-
while drain the liquor from one quart of oysters and chop them fine with a sharp, thin
bladed knife. Blend a teaspoonful of corn starch in a very little cold milk, pour over
it one-half pint of boiling milk or cream, put it over the fire in a saucepan, stir till it
thickens, and then add one ounce of butter ; when the butter has been well mixed
in, season the chopped oysters with salt and pepper, stir them into the thickened
milk, let simmer (stirring all the time), for five minutes, and then take from off the fire.
When the bread pie is baked remove from the oven, and while still hot carefully take
off the upper crust ; remove the bread, and fill the dish with the thickened cream or
milk and chopped oysters, replace the top crust, put the pie again in the oven till it
is thoroughly hot and then serve.
Oyster Poulette.
Place thirty-six freshly-opened oysters in a saucepan with a little of their own
liquor, one ounce of butter, half a pinch of salt and pepper and parboil for three min-
utes, adding half a pint of hollandaise sauce; stew well together for two minutes
longer, but without letting the liquor boil, add one teaspoonful of chopped parsley
and the juice of half a lemon, stir slightly and serve very hot.
SHELL-FISH. 115
Scalloped Oysters.
Strain the oyster liquor, rinse the oysters in it, then plump and beard them.
Measure the liquor and add to it an equal quantity of rich white sauce; if this does
not thicken it sufficiently add one teaspoonful of flour, rubbed into a small piece of
butter, stir over the fire until pretty hot, stir until it boils and boil ten minutes, stir-
ring occasionally. Put in the oysters and keep them nearly simmering for three min-
utes, then put them into their shells with a little of the sauce, put a layer of sifted
breadcrumbs on them, pour over this a little clarified butter and brown them in the
oven.
Spiced Oysters.
Take a hundred fresh oysters, put them into a large earthenware pipkin together
with their own liquor strained, half a nutmeg grated, eighteen cloves, four blades of
mace, a teaspoonful of allspice, a very little cayenne pepper, one teaspoonful of salt
and two tablespoonfuls of strong vinegar, and stir all these together with a wooden
spoon. Put them in a moderately-heated oven or over a slow fire; take them from
the fire several times and stir them thoroughly; as soon as they come to a boil pour
them in a pan and let them stand all night in a cool place. They will be ready for
eating next day.
Steamed Oysters.
Open and drain the required quantity of oysters, lay them in a steamer, which
place over a saucepan of boiling water, cover them with a plate and cook for ten min-
utes. When ready place the oysters in a very hot dish, garnish with some croutons
of brown bread fried in butter and drained and a few drops of lemon or vinegar
poured over them. Dust lightly with salt and pepper and serve.
Stewed Oysters.
Open the shells of one dozen oysters, take them out carefully and wash them in
their own liquor until perfectly free from grit and pieces of shell, put them in a sauce-
pan, strain the liquor twice, pour it over, place the pan at the side of the fire and let it
simmer gently for a few minutes until done. Remove the oysters with a skimmer and
put them on a dish in a slow oven to keep warm; add to the liquor one teacupful of
cream and salt and cayenne to taste. Place the pan on the fire and when the liquor
boils add two ounces of butter worked up with one teaspoonful of flour and continue
to stir till it is all thoroughly mixed. Put in the oysters to warm up without boiling,
remove the pan from the fire and stir in a little lemon juice. Have ready some pieces
of bread fried in butter, arrange them on a dish, put the oysters on them, pour over
the liquor and serve very hot.
n6 SHELL-FISH.
Stewed Oysters, Baltimore Style.
Open neatly three dozen medium sized fresh oysters, place them in a saucepan
without their liquor, and add one ounce of good butter; cover the pan, place it over
the fire and cook for two minutes, then add one wineglassful of good Madeira wine and
a very little cayenne pepper, cook together for two minutes longer and add one gill
each of Spanish sauce and half-glaze. Stir thoroughly until boiling, and just before
serving squeeze in the juice of a lemon, add one-half ounce of butter, a teaspoonful of
finely chopped parsley, and serve immediately in a hot tureen.
Stuffed Oysters.
Put the grated yolks of four hard boiled eggs into a basin and mix in half the
quantity of minced bacon or salt fat pork, add a little pepper or chopped parsley and
make them all into a paste by adding the uncooked yolk of another egg. Split open
four dozen oysters, stuff them with this mixture, put them in large oyster shells, coat
them over with breadcrumbs, put a little warmed butter on top, place them in an
oven and bake until done. Put them on a dish, garnish with pieces of fried bread
and serve.
Oyster Vol-au-Vent.
Put the liquor and beards of three dozen oysters into a saucepan, add a little
pepper (cayenne) and the finely chopped rind and strained juice of half a lemon. Put
the pan on the fire, boil up the liquor and thicken with three ounces of butter rubbed
into two tablespoonfuls of flour. Continue to boil till the liquor is reduced to one
teacupful, strain it into another saucepan, add the oysters, place the pan at the side
of the fire and simmer gently for five or six minutes, then stir in one teacupful of
cream and keep the mixture warm. Prepare a paste as follows: Rub twelve ounces
of butter into an equal quantity of flour and mix in the juice of a lemon added to one
egg beaten up in one teacupful of cold water. Make this into a paste, handling it as
little as possible, turn it out on a well-floured board and roll it out to one and one-
fourth inches in thickness. Cut it with a vol-au-vent tin cutter to take off the rough
edges, make it the required shape, cut round the top one-half inch from the edge and
one-fourth inch deep and bake the vol-au-vent in a hot oven for forty-five minutes.
When done carefully take out the center, remove the soft underdone paste and fill it
up with the oyster mixture. Arrange the vol-au-vent on a napkin spread over a dish
and serve with a garnish of fried parsley.
Oysters with Cream.
Put a pint of cream in a saucepan with a small piece of onion and a little mace
tied up in a muslin bag. Boil and stir in a tablespoonful of flour mixed with a little
milk or cream. Put one quart of oysters in a saucepan with their liquor and boil
SHELL-FISH.
117
them for a few minutes until tender, skimming frequently. Remove the oysters,
drain, put them in the saucepan with the cream, remove the onion and mace, pour it
into a dish and serve hot.
Oysters with Parmesan Cheese.
Drain the oysters as free as possible from liquor ; spread a dish thickly with
butter, lay the oysters on it, strew finely-minced parsley over them, season with
pepper, pour one-half glass of champagne over and cover thickly with grated Par-
mesan cheese. Put the dish into the oven, and when nicely browned .on top, drain
the fat carefully off the oysters, and serve, while very hot, in the same dish.
Boiled Prawns.
Place a pint of prawns, previously thoroughly washed, into a saucepan with
enough water to cover them, adding salt in the proportion of one-quarter pound
to each gallon of water ; set the pan on a quick fire, and boil for eight minutes,
skimming frequently ; then remove, drain on a sieve, and serve artistically arranged,
interspersed with parsley.
Buttered Prawns.
Remove from their shells three breakfast cupfuls of prawns, and dredge over
them salt and pepper to taste, place them in a saucepan and pour over them two
breakfast cupfuls of good rich gravy, and add a small lump of butter, well-kneaded
with flour, to thicken it. Then place the pan at the side of the fire, and simmer
gently for five to six minutes, after which, turn the prawns out on to a dish and serve.
Baked Scallops.
Take the scallops out of their shells and trim off the beards and all the black
parts. Wash the deep shells of the scallops, dry them, put in the scallops, and pour
one-half tablespoonful of vinegar over each. Blanch a bunch of parsley and chop it
finely ; mix it with the grated breadcrumbs, season to taste with pepper and salt,
and bind the mixture into a paste with a little milk. Spread some of the paste over
each shell, strew a few dried breadcrumbs on the top, and put a small piece of
butter on each. Place them in a brisk oven and bake for twenty minutes. Serve the
scallops very hot and in their shells, on a folded napkin on a dish.
Fried Scallops.
Trim off the beards and black parts, clean the scallops well and drain them. Put
a lump of lard into a flat stewpan, place it over the fire until blue smoke rises, then
put in the scallops and fry them until lightly browned. Drain them for a moment on
n8 SHELL-FISH.
a sheet of paper, arrange them on a hot dish over which has been spread a folded
napkin garnished with fried parsley, and serve.
Stewed Scallops.
Put some scallops in a stewpan with a half blade of mace, a little sugar and suf-
ficient water to cover them ; stew gently by the edge of the fire for about thirty min-
utes or until tender. Put one and one-half ounces of butter in a stewpan with one
tablespoonful of flour and mix it over the fire, then stir in some of the liquor in which
the scallops were stewed, three tablespoonfuls of cream and flavor with a little grated
nutmeg. Arrange the scallops on a hot dish, pour the sauce over them and serve.
Shrimps and Boiled Rice.
Make thick white sauce of one heaping tablespoonful of flour, one ounce of
butter and one-half pint of milk ; flavor it sparingly with mace, cayenne and salt.
Stir into the sauce one pint of shelled shrimps ; when they are thoroughly hot, pour
them on to a hot dish, arrange around them a border of boiled rice and serve.
Buttered Shrimps.
Shell some shrimps and place them in a fryingpan with a lump of butter, a small
quantity of salt and pepper, and stir them over the fire until hot. Fry some thin
slices of bread in butter, drain when a golden brown and place them on a hot dish;
pile the buttered shrimps on the bread and serve.
Shrimp Cromeskies.
Shell some shrimps and cut them into small pieces. Prepare some veloute sauce
and reduce it to half its original quantity; move the sauce to the side of the fire, stir
in the beaten yolks of two eggs and one tablespoonful of butter divided into small
pieces, continue stirring the sauce by the side of the fire, adding, when thick, the
shrimps. Leave the mixture until cold, then divide it into equal parts and wrap each
one separately in squares of udder; roll the cromeskies to the shape of a cork, dip
them in frying batter, then plunge them into boiling fat and fry until crisp and nicely
browned. When cooked drain the cromeskies, put them on a folded napkin or orna-
mental dish-paper on a hot dish, garnish with fried parsley and serve.
Shrimps, Normandy Style.
Skin and remove the heads from one pint of fresh shrimps; put one ounce of
butter in a stewpan, place it over the fire until melted, then stir in one tablespoonful
of ground rice; mix in one-half pint of new milk, and continue stirring until it is
SHELL-FISH. 119
thickened and boiling. Then put in the shrimps and leave them until quite hot.
When ready turn them on to a hot dish, garnish with sippets of toast or croutons of
fried bread and serve.
Shrimp Patties or Bouchees.
Remove the shells from three or four pints of fresh shrimps; bone and chop
finely three anchovies, mix them with the shrimps, and season to taste with pounded
mace and cloves. Moisten the mixture with about one and one-half wineglassfuls of
white wine. Prepare some puff paste, roll it to about one-half inch in thickness, cut
the paste into rounds with a two-inch tin cutter, then with a one-inch cutter cut half
way through the middle of each round of paste. Brush the rounds over with a paste-
brush dipped in the beaten yolk of an egg, and bake them in a quick oven. Heat the
shrimp mixture in a saucepan over the fire, and when the patties are cooked lift off
the piece marked with the cutter, scoop out the soft inside, fill them with the mixture,
cover with the small rounds of paste, arrange them on a hot dish over which has been
spread a folded napkin, garnished with fried parsley, and serve.
Scalloped Shrimps.
Prepare one-half pint of tomato sauce, and put in with it one-half pint of picked
shrimps, and one wineglassful of either red or white wine. Stir the above ingredients
in a saucepan over the fire until hot, then turn them into a scallop dish; cover the
top with finely grated breadcrumbs, put three or four lumps of butter over, and bake
until browned. When well colored, take the dish out of the oven and serve the
shrimps while hot.
Stewed Shrimps.
Pick one quart of shrimps, reserve their tails, and place the remainder in a stew-
pan with one-half pint of water, and pour in a little vinegar; also put one-half blade
of mace; let them simmer at the side of the fire for fifteen minutes, stirring occasion-
ally. Strain the liquor into another saucepan, add the tails, half of a grated nutmeg,
a small quantity of salt, and two ounces of butter that has been worked with two
tablespoonfuls of flour, and stir them over the fire for about fifteen minutes. Toast
a thin slice of bread, cut it into strips, place them at the bottom of a hot dish, pour
the stew over them, garnish with parsley, and serve.
The Diamond-Back or Salt-Water Terrapin.
Three species of the genus Malacoclemmys inhabit the United States. By far
the most important of these, and the most valuable of all terrapins is the Malacoclem-
mys Palustris, or the "diamond-back terrapin."
The other two species, the Geographic Tortoises, M. Geographica and M.
120 SHELL-FISH.
Lesueuri are of a comparatively rare occurrence and are not used for food to any
considerable extent.
DISTRIBUTION. The "diamond-back," or "salt-water terrapin" is common along
our entire Atlantic coast, from Nantucket and New Bedford, in Massachusetts, to
Texas. It also occurs in South America. It was introduced into Italy by the Prince
of Canino a number of years ago, but of the success of the enterprise I have been un-
able to learn. Those who enter into commerce however are principally from the
Chesapeake Bay and the coast of the Carolinas. Some very fine ones also come from
Egg Harbor, N. J.
CHARACTERISTICS AND HABITS. The diamond-back lives in salt marshes near
the coast, and is seldom found far from them. They were formerly very abundant in
such localities, and could be often seen on warm days sunning themselves on the bars
and flats. But the increasing demand for them and the wholesale capture of old and
young have reduced their numbers very materially. The species is a comparatively
small one, and varies much in external appearance. The females attain a larger size
than the male and are much more highly prized in the market. The average length
of the under part of the shell is seven inches, and the weight of the animal four or
five pounds. Rarely the length reaches ten inches, and the terrapin weighs about ten
pounds. The fixed standard of length for salable females in most markets is six
inches, but in some it is as low as five inches. The terrapin having that length are
known as "counts." The small specimens are separated into "heifers" and "little
bulls ;" their under shell rarely exceeds five inches in length. As has been already
said, they are deemed very inferior to the females, and the price of them is therefore
much lower.
In regard to the rate of growth, I have seen it stated that the diamond-back
reaches maturity, or rather lays eggs when four years old, but this is hardly probable.
It does not accord with the observations of Agassiz and others nor with the peculiari-
ties of the group generally. Experiments made by a dealer in North Carolina seem
to show that the species grow about one inch each year, so that "counts" are at least
six years old. Probably ten years at least elapse before they are fully grown.
FOOD. What the food of the diamond-back terrapin is does not seem to be exactly
known. Very probably, however, it consists of such matter, both animal and vegeta-
ble, as the animal is able to find in the marshes in which it lives. When penned,
preparatory to sending them to market, they are fed on crabs, oysters and fish. To
give them the finest flavor, they are said to be fed upon celery for some days previous
to being served. In the winter the tortoise hibernates and takes no food, remaining
buried several inches in the mud. Unfortunately for its welfare, a little mound of mud
is always raised above the spot where it disappears, which at once catches the eye of
the terrapin fisherman. A large proportion of the terrapins are taken while they are
in this torpid condition.
BREEDING HABITS Like all other species of tortoises, the diamond-back deposits
its eggs on land. When the laying season arrives, the female seeks some sandy bar or
SHELL-FISH. 121
bank above water, and having excavated a shallow pit with the hind legs, deposits
from five to seven eggs. The breeding season occurs in the latter part of June and
early part of July. It is said that the young show no disposition to seek the water,
but prefer to remain in the sand.
ECONOMIC VALUE. The diamond-back is highly prized for food. Philadelphia
furnished the best market for this species, but it is also sold in large numbers in Balti-
more, Washington, New York, Boston, Chicago, Pittsburg, Cincinnati, St. Louis and
many other cities. The season lasts from the beginning of October to the first or
middle of June ; the best months are October and November. The specimens from North
Carolina usually appear in the market last. The "counts" or those over six inches
long bring from eighteen to thirty-six dollars per dozen in the market ; the smaller
o/nes are usually sold separately at prices of from fifteen to fifty cents apiece. These
prices, however, are almost sixty per cent higher than the prices received by the
catcher, for the terrapins pass through several hands on their way to the market. The
majority of terrapins are actually caught in the summer months and are penned in yards,
known as "crawls" until the marketing season arrives,
To kill the terrapin it is necessary to have ready a large saucepan of boiling
water, one that will hold a terrapin easily, and to plunge the creature into it head
first, putting the lid or cover on the pan immediately, and leaving it in the water for
ten or fifteen minutes. Then remove it and peel off the black skin from the shell,
and the nails from the claws. Wash the terrapin thoroughly in warm water, and
remove the under shell by chipping through the thinnest parts, where the black shell
joins. Cut close to the shell so as not to lose any meat, pour away the water, but
keep the blood, which will be found in the deep or black shell. Take out the dark green
gall bladder, which is about the size of a cherry, and will be found near the center at the
side of the liver, and also the sand bag and entrail, and preserve the eggs, if there be any.
Loosen the meat from the top shell, cutting through the spine bone, just above the tail,
where it is attached to the shell, turn the terrapin into a flat pan, and cut off the head.
This, with the shell, can be used for soup. Separate the two fore and two hind legs, so
as to have four pieces, trim off the claws, and scrape off the thin outside covering. In
the female terrapin there will be found rich fat at the shoulders. This should be
taken off, as it does not require so much cooking as the other parts, and should only
be added when they are nearly done. It is of a dark green color. All the pieces of
meat, together with the fat and legs, should be kept in water until wanted for use.
Only the flesh, eggs and liver of the terrapin are ordinarily used, but sometimes the
intestines are scalded and scraped, and added to the terrapin. When there are no
eggs in the terrapin, egg balls are made to accompany it.
Baked Terrapin.
Cut off the head of a terrapin, put it in a saucepan or pot with the shell on, and
let it boil until the under shell can be removed easily. Take it out, pull out all the
122 SHELL-FISH.
meat, cleaning the upper shell thoroughly ; pick the meat to pieces, and mix it up
with a few crackers and chopped onions, a small quantity each of allspice, black
pepper, chopped parsley and butter, and pour over a small quantity of wine. Put
this mixture into the top shell, place a few slices of lemon on the top, set it in the
oven and bake. When done take it out and serve.
Baked Terrapins, Maryland Style.
Half fill a baking pan with dry gravel or sand, put it into an oven and make it
quite hot; wash well three terrapins that have been killed, remove their heads, put
them with the top shell downward in the sand and bake in the oven for an hour.
Take them out, remove the under shell, gall bag and entrails and loosen the meat
without taking it out of the back shell. Pull off the legs, skin them and lay them on
the top. Put one breakfast cupful of butter in a basin to soften, mix in one teacup-
ful of flour, one teaspoonful each of salt and black pepper and the juice of a lemon.
Put a little more than one tablespoonful of this into each terrapin, place them back
in the oven for a few minutes, take them out and serve on a napkin spread on a dish.
Fricassee of Terrapin.
Put the meat of two or three terrapins into a saucepan with a little butter
and a bunch of parsley and sweet herbs; cook until it is slightly colored, sprinkle
in salt and pepper to taste and one tablespoonful of flour and pour in gradually
sufficient cream to cover. Boil for four minutes without stirring, then add one wine-
glassful of sherry; boil again for ten nr'nutes, take the saucepan from the fire,
thicken with the beaten yolks of four eggs, remove the bunch of sweet herbs
and parsley, add five ounces of butter broken up into small pieces, turn the whole
out on to a dish and serve with minced parsley sprinkled over it.
Terrapin Steaks.
Cut the meat of a terrapin into slices or steaks, sprinkle them over with salt
and pepper, place a few lumps of butter on them and either fry them in a frying-
pan or broil them on a gridiron. When done place them on a dish and serve very
hot; or they may be dipped in butter before being salted and peppered, covered
with melted breadcrumbs and then cooked.
Stewed Terrapins.
Cut the flesh off some small terrapins in little pieces, and put them over the fire
in a stewpan, together with a seasoning of pepper and salt, a little cayenne pepper
and a small piece of butter. Let them stew in the butter for a short time, add one
wineglassful of water for each terrapin, and put in at the same time a piece of butter
SHELL-FISH. 123
rolled in flour ; stew for ten minutes, then add for each terrapin one wineglassful of
white wine, and let it stew for another five minutes ; then move the pan to the side of
the fire, and stir in some beaten yolks of eggs, allowing one yolk to two terrapins.
Cover the pan tightly and let it stand for five or six minutes. Then pour the ter-
rapins, sauce and all, into a tureen and serve.
Stewed Terrapin, Baltimore Style.
Prepare two medium sized terrapins. Make one pint or so of mirepoix sauce,
add to it one tablespoonful of flour and bake for fifteen minutes ; moisten with one
wineglassful of Madeira wine and one breakfast cupful of strong broth. Stir con-
stantly, season with a small pinch of salt and a very little cayenne pepper, and reduce
the liquor to half its original quantity. Cut the terrapins into small pieces, throwing
the ends of the claws away ; place the pieces in a stewpan, straining the sauce over
them and finish with one ounce of fresh butter, also the juice of a lemon. Then dish
up and serve.
Stewed Terrapin, Maryland Style.
Carefully cut up two terrapins, place them in a saucepan with one wineglassful of
good Madeira wine, a small pinch of salt, a little cayenne pepper, and an ounce or
two of good butter. Mix thoroughly one breakfast cupful of sweet cream with the
yolks of three boiled eggs, and add it to the terrapin, stirring continually while thor-
oughly heating, but without letting it come to a boil Turn the whole into a tureen,
and serve it very hot.
Vol-au-Vent of Terrapin.
Put one breakfast cupful of terrapin stock into a saucepan with two or three
cloves and a little mace or parsley, and boil it up ; add one tablespoonful of browned
flour mixed up with an equal amount of butter to thicken it, pour in one wineglassful
of sherry wine, and strain the liquor into another saucepan. Add two breakfast
cupfuls of terrapin meat cut up into small pieces, sprinkle on a little salt and cayenne,
simmer gently at the side of the fire until the preparation is done. Have in readi-
ness eight vol-au-vent cases lined with puff paste and baked, fill them with the terra-
pin mixture, and serve on a folded napkin spread over a dish.
Turtle Fins Financiere.
Scald and wash the fins of a turtle, remove the large bones, and insert thin tubes
in the cavities ; bind the fins tightly in cloths, place them in a saucepan with enough
water or broth to cover, and boil until tender. When done, take them out and let
them cool, but without removing the cloths. Have ready a little turtle quenelle mix-
ture poached in turtle consomme, remove the cloths and tubes from the fins, stuff
them with the mixture, warm up again and serve. A garnish composed of fancy
124 SHELL-FISH.
shapes cut out from the firm red part of a cooked beef tongue, truffles, breast of
chicken, champignons, and also small quenelles, may also be used.
Stewed Turtle.
Clean a small turtle, place it in a saucepan of cold water, and sufficiently boil it
to enable the meat to be easily removed. Cut out the meat in small pieces, put them
into a saucepan with a seasoning of salt, cayenne pepper, spices and a little lemon ;
add a few hard boiled eggs cut up and sufficient white wine to moisten. Boil until
the meat is quite tender, turn the whole out on to a dish and serve. The meat for
this should be rather over than underdone. The wine and lemon may be substituted
by rich stock or by turtle soup,
Side Dishes.
Anchovy Tartines.
Unroll, dry and cut into narrow strips the contents of a bottle of anchovies pre-
served in oil. Cut some French rolls into round slices, butter them well and arrange
a few of the strips of anchovy on them so as to form an open or trellis work. In the
center, or opening, put the yolk and white of an egg and parsley or finely chopped
gherkins, varying them so as not to let the colors contrast; put them on a dish with a
napkin spread over it and serve with cheese.
Deviled Bones.
Select bones which have not been quite stripped of meat and mix with a little dry
mustard and salt and make up with a lump of butter. Rub this well into and over
the bones, and dust lightly with cayenne pepper and broil. Serve with mushrooms
fried in butter.
Marrow Bones.
May be either deviled or boiled, but in either instance the ends should be well
sealed with a paste made of flour and water. Serve with slices of hot buttered toast,
without crust, and a marrow spoon for transferring the marrow to the toast.
Bouchees of Beef Palates.
Chop up two cold cooked beef palates into very small pieces and put them into
a saucepan with one-third of their bulk of chopped cooked mushrooms; pour a few
tablespoonfuls of very good bechamel sauce into another saucepan, reduce it, stirring
continually, and adding gradually one-half teacupful of melted glaze. Add it to
the salpicon of palates and mushrooms, and put the saucepan containing them into
the bain-marie to keep hot. Have ready some bouchees cases, made of puff paste,
remove the top, put in some of the mixture, cover them over, arrange on a napkin
spread on a dish and serve.
Bouchees, Queen Style.
Roll some good puff paste into a quarter of an inch in thickness, and let it
remain in a cold place for ten minutes, then cut six rounds out of the paste with a
three-inch cutter, fluted ; lay these on a buttered tin baking-dish, slightly separated
125
i 2 6 SIDE DISHES.
from each other, and brush them over with beaten egg ; make a mark on the surface
of each with a paste cutter two inches in diameter, being careful to dip the cutter
each time in hot water, so that the marked line may remain perfect ; then place in
a brisk oven for twenty minutes ; lift the centers with a knife, remove the crumb and
fill with a white salpicon, made of truffles, mushrooms and finely shredded chicken
and tongue cut up into small dice. Set the centers on again as covers, and serve on
a hot dish with a folded napkin on it.
Bouchees of Sardines.
Pound one or two boned sardines in a mortar, together with a small quantity
of cheese, and add salt, pepper and chili vinegar until the mixture has the taste
and appearance of dressed crab. Mix in a few chopped oysters ; put the mixture
into small cases of bread fried in butter, and garnish with hard boiled yolk of egg
rubbed through a sieve and mixed with finely-chopped parsley. Arrange these
bouchees on a napkin on. a dish, and serve.
Canapes.
Cut several thin slices of bread, remove the crusts and toast them till they are
of an even brown. Butter slightly and spread with any kind of potted meat or fish.
Put two slices together, and cut them in long strips. They afford a tasty dish for
tea or supper parties.
Artichoke Bottoms for Canapes.
Cook the artichokes, spreading over the bottoms some anchovy butter and decorate
with pickled cucumbers, capers or gherkins, anchovies and the whites and yolks of
hard-boiled eggs. Pour over them a salad dressing and garnish with water cresses.
Canapes of Caviar.
Cut three or four slices of bread about one-fourth inch in thickness, and then
cut them up into round pieces with a biscuit cutter, of about two inches in diameter.
Put these into a pan with a small piece of butter, and fry to a light brown color.
When done, spread on the rounds a layer of caviar, and serve them on a dish covered
with a napkin or ornamental dish-paper.
Cheese Canapes.
Cut a few pieces of bread into slices a quarter of an inch thick, trim off the
crusts, and then cut them up one inch wide and three inches long; fry these a delicate
brown in clarified butter; grate a little cheese over them, sprinkle on the tops a little
cayenne pepper and salt, and put them in the oven until the cheese has melted.
SIDE DISHES. 127
Serve while hot. A fillet of anchovy shredded into two laid lengthwise on these
canapes are an improvement, and they may be eaten cold with salad. They may also
be garnished with finely chopped parsley.
Canapes of Crab
Take six slices of bread, cut off the crusts, and fry the slices to a light brown
with a pat of butter. Take the lower shell from a few crabs, and pick out the meat
from the body and claws; place the meat on a plate, season with salt and pepper, and
mince up well. Put one ounce of butter in a saucepan with a chopped onion, cook
for a few minutes, but do not let the onion brown. Stir in two tablespoonfuls of
flour, then one gill of broth, add the crab meat, cook and continue stirring for fifteen
minutes. Have a tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan on a hot stove, mix in one
tablespoonful of flour, and cook slowly for three minutes; add two ounces of grated
Parmesan cheese, and the same quantity of grated Gruyere; stir together and turn
into a basin to cool. Spread a layer of the forcemeat on each slice of toast. Divide
the cheese into six equal parts, roll each into a ball, range it in the center, over the
layer of forcemeat. Place them on a flat dish, and bake in the brisk oven for five or
six minutes. When ready take the dish out of the oven and serve at once.
Egg Canapes.
Put into a saucepan of water four eggs and boil for ten minutes, or until quite
hard; then peel off the shells, cut the eggs in halves, remove the yolks and chop
them up. Soak two anchovies, dry and remove the bones and chop them up
with three truffles and six capers; mix in the chopped yolks, add a seasoning of
salt, pepper and cayenne and one teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar. Fill the halves
of eggs with this mixture, place each one on a piece of fried bread, heat in the oven
and serve very hot.
Eggs and Caviar Canapes.
Cut a French roll into slices of moderate thickness and butter them; spread over
each a layer of Russian caviar and squeeze over a little lemon juice. Boil some eggs
till hard and when cold peel and cut into slices; lay a slice of egg on each slice of
roll and press them slightly together. Put the canapes on a dish with a folded nap-
kin or a dish-paper, garnish them with green parsley and serve. A very small quan-
tity of finely minced parsley strewn over the tops of the eggs will be found an im-
provement.
Canapes of Lobster.
Spread with lobster butter a few thin slices of bread fried in butter; leave for
two hours some slices of lobster in a marinade of oil, vinegar, salt and pepper. Take
them out, set them in the middle of the bread and place a group of capers on each
piece.
128 SIDE DISHES.
Canapes Lorenzo.
Cut six slices of bread the width of an American loaf and one-quarter of an
inch in thickness, neatly pare off the crust and fry in a sautoire, together with half
an ounce of fresh butter, so as to make them a light brown color ; then boil eighteen
hard-shell crabs in salted water for about twelve minutes, after which remove and
allow them to become cool, when the upper shell should be removed, and with the
aid of a pointed knife pick out all of the meat, cracking the claws and removing all
the meat from there also ; place it all on a plate, season with a teaspoonful of salt
and half a saltspoonful of red pepper ; then place one ounce of butter in a saucepan,
with a peeled and very finely chopped onion, and cook them together for about two
minutes over a moderate fire ; add two tablespoonfuls of flour, stir again for two
minutes, and add one gill of broth, and stir while slowly cooking for five minutes,
now add the crab meat, and cook for quarter of an hour, stirring once in a while with
a wooden spoon, then remove into another vessel and let it cool for fifteen minutes.
Put in a sautoire a tablespoonful of good butter over a stove, and mix in with one
tablespoonful of flour, and cook for three minutes gently ; add a couple of ounces of
grated Parmesan cheese and an equal quantity of Swiss cheese, stirring well together;
place it in a vessel to cool. Put a layer of crab meat on each slice of toast a quarter
of an inch thick, and divide the prepared cheese in six equal portions, forming them
into ball shapes about two inches in diameter, and arrange them over the layer of
crab meat in the center, place them on a dish and bake in a brisk oven for about five
minutes, then take them out and serve them in the same dish in which they have
been cooked.
Canapes Madison.
Cut six thin slices of bread and trim them all alike, toast to a golden color, and
place them on a dish. Cover each slice with a very thin slice of lean cooked ham ;
spread a little mustard over it, then cover with a layer of provincial garnishing.
Dredge grated Parmesan cheese on the top, and strew a little fresh breadcrumbs over
all. Place them in a hot oven, and bake for ten minutes ; then take them out,
arrange on a hot dish, covered by a folded napkin, and serve.
Olive and Anchovy Canapes.
Stone and peel some olives, being sure to keep their shape as much as possible ;
wash an equal number of anchovies and coil an anchovy around each olive. Cut as
many rounds of bread as there are olives and toast them lightly on both sides ; butter
them while they are hot and put an olive on each. Spread a dish paper over a hot
dish, arrange the toast on it, garnish with a border of fresh well-washed water-
cresses, and serve. This dish is much used for luncheons,
SIDE DISHES. 129
Olive and Caper Canapes.
Cut six slices of bread out of which cut twelve rounds. Melt some butter in a
stewpan, then put in the slices of bread and fry them. When they are nicely browned
take them out of the fat and place them on a piece of paper to drain. Skin and bone
twelve anchovies, put them in a mortar, mash, then rub them through a fine wire
sieve. Spread the anchovy paste over the pieces of bread, strew finely chopped
capers and olives on the top, place them on a baking-dish and put in a brisk oven for
ten minutes. Arrange the toast on a fancy napkin and serve it while it is very hot.
Oyster Canapes.
Finely chop a dozen oysters, put them in a saucepan with a teaspoonful of
cracker dust or finely grated breadcrumb, a lump of butter about the size of a walnut,
and one-half teacupful of thick cream, and season with salt and pepper. Stir the
mixture over the fire and let it simmer for a few minutes. Cut some slices of bread
about one-fourth inch in thickness, butter them, and put them on a hot dish. Pour
the mixture over the bread and butter and serve it while hot.
Canapes of Sardines.
Bone six or eight sardines, put half of them in a mortar with the hard-boiled
yolks of three eggs and pound them, mixing in by degrees sufficient butter to make
a firm paste. Season the mixture with a small quantity of finely-chopped parsley,
chives and tarragon, mustard, pepper and a small quantity of vinegar. Rub all the
ingredients together until quite smooth. Cut slices of bread into oval-shaped pieces,
and fry them in butter until well browned, but not too dark a color. When fried
drain and spread over with the sardine mixture. Arrange the slices on a dish over
which has been spread an ornamental dish-paper or a folded napkin. Cut a few more
sardines into small fillets, lay them on the canapes with very small slices of pickled
gherkins and a few shelled prawns. This is a very pretty dish and simple in con-
struction.
Canapes -of Smoked Salmon.
Fry in clarified butter some fingers of bread, two and one-half inches long, one
and one-half inches wide and one-fourth inch thick; when lightly browned drain them
and leave them until cold. Mask the pieces of bread with anchovy butter, place some
thin slices of smoked salmon on each, sprinkle over some chopped hard-boiled egg
and parsley and serve.
Tricolor Canapes.
Skin and bone six anchovies, pound them in a mortar and pass them through a
fine wire sieve. Boil three eggs until they are hard, separate the whites from the
130 SIDE DISHES.
yolks and pass them separately through the sieve. Care must be taken in preparing
these ingredients not to get the colors mixed. Cut four slices of bread, trim off the
crusts, and cut each slice into two square pieces. Put a strip of the hard-boiled white
of an egg on a piece of fried bread, next a strip of finely-chopped gherkins or capers,
and next a strip of the yolk of eggs, thus making three colors on one piece of bread.
Proceed in like manner with the rest. Spread a fancy dish-paper or a folded napkin
over a dish, arrange the canapes neatly on it, placing here and there a few sprigs of
parsley and serve.
Caviar on Toast.
Prepare six rounds of toast of white bread. Place in a saucepan two large table-
spoonfuls of caviar and one tablespoonful of cream, heat for a minute or two at one
side of the fire, stirring carefully meanwhile. Pour this mixture over the toast and
serve on a dish with a folded napkin.
Caviar with Eggs.
Cut off from stale French rolls some slices about a third of an inch thick; spread
on them anchovy butter or fry them lightly in butter. Spread over each slice a
thick layer of caviar, then squeeze over a little lemon juice and add a seasoning of
salt and pepper. Have prepared some hard boiled eggs, peel them and cut them
into slices, using a very sharp knife; lay the slices of egg, one on each side of the
bread, and serve on a dish on which has been laid an ornamental paper. A bit of
chopped mustard and cress salad spread over the caviar is an improvement.
Curling Celery.
Slit the stalks with a penknife closely should the fringe be too fine, taking care
that the slits all end at an even line. If a large amount of celery is used every day
set on the tables in celery glasses, a sort of rake is used in place of the penknife, and
this rake is made by driving a number of the three-edged sacking needles of the very
smallest size through a soft piece of cigar boxwood. The celery ends are combed
with this and then put in glasses of ice-water to cool at leisure.
Frizzled Celery.
Take one large head of good celery, pare off the green stalks and cut off the
root, which may be used for salad. Cut the stalk lengthwise into four equal parts,
wash them well in cold water and cut each one into pieces about three inches long,
and by doing this all the branches will be separated. With the aid of a small sharp
knife pare the thin sides a little, making five or six slits in each piece, starting from
the top downward, leaving from one-half to three-quarters of an inch uncut, and put
them in cold water with plenty of ice, allowing them to remain for about two hours.
Then remove them from the ice water, arrange them tastefully on a round glass dish
SIDE DISHES. 131
and serve. Celery arranged and served in this way makes a beautiful effect on the
table, though it requires time and patience to prepare it.
Serving Celery in a Glass.
Thoroughly wash two or three heads of fine white celery, pare off the green
stalks and trim the roots, being careful to save the clear white hearts. Cut every
head lengthwise into quarters, rinse them again in cold water, and let them remain in
a dish of clean ice water until required. Arrange them in a celery stand, or glass or
dress on a china dish, with a few pieces of ice in the center, and serve.
Olive Custards.
Stone some olives. Beat two eggs well, put them into a lined stewpan with two
ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, and with a wooden spoon, stir over the fire
until they are thick, then remove the pan. Cut as much bread as there are olives,
fry them in boiling butter until they are of a light golden brown and drain ; spread
them with a layer of the anchovy paste, then with a layer of the cheese mixture and
put an olive on each. Spread an ornamented napkin on a dish, arrange the rounds
on it and serve.
Olives Stuffed with Anchovies.
Stone a dozen Spanish olives ; wash and bone five anchovies, chop them finely,
put them in a mortar with a moderate quantity each of chopped onion and parsley,
pound them smoothly and season with a small quantity of cayenne pepper. Fill the
hollows of the olives left by the stones with the pounded mixture, Cut a few slices
of bread and scoop a hollow in the center of each round ; put a large piece of lard
in a stewpan on the fire, and when it boils put in the rounds of bread and fry them
until they are brown. Afterwards drain, then leave them until they are cool, and
place an olive in the middle of each. Arrange them on a dish, pour over a small
quantity of mayonnaise sauce and serve.
Olives Stuffed with Chestnuts.
Take twelve Spanish olives and six Spanish chestnuts, put two ounces of butter
in a saucepan with two ounces of ham cut in small pieces, a small carrot and onion
peeled and cut into thin slices and fry until they are brown; then add a bay-leaf, a
blade of mace, four peppercorns, dredge in one tablespoonful of flour and moisten
with some of the liquor from the olives. Stir the whole until they are mixed then
place the pan over the fire and stir occasionally. Boil the chestnuts and when they
are tender peel and put them in a mortar with one pound of butter, salt and pepper to
taste, and a small quantity of grated nutmeg, pound until smooth. Peel the olives,
remove the stones, fill the hollows with the chestnuts, and lay them in a lined stew-
pan; strain the above sauce over them and let them simmer at the side of the fire
132 SIDE DISHES.
until they are hot through. Cut a thick slice of bread, fry it in butter until it is
nicely browned, then drain and scoop out the center, making a hollow large enough to
hold the olives. When it is ready put the olives on the bread, place it on a hot dish,
garnish tastefully round with quarters of hard-boiled eggs, pour the sauce round the
bread and serve while it is very hot.
Dressed Raw Onions.
Peel some onions, chop fine, put in water with a very little salt and let them soak
for an hour or so. Remove them, drain, place on a dish and pour over a mixture of
one-half gill of vinegar, two tablespoonfuls each of made mustard, chili vinegar and
sugar, and one tablespoonful of salt. Put a lump of ice on top and garnish the dish
with curled parsley. If the parsley is eaten after the onions it is supposed to take
the smell away. ,
Patties.
Take a few small patty pans and spread them with short paste, make a savory
forcemeat of raw calf's liver, fill the pans with it, put over these covers of thin paste
and place them in a slack oven to bake. Remove when done, and when they are cold
cut off the covering of paste, take out a little of the inside and put in a little cooked
goose's fat liver. Replace that which was removed and put it over the goose's liver,
raising the preparation in a dome above the edges of the paste. Set a small jelly
crouton on the top. Arrange the patties in a pyramid on a dish and garnish them
with more aspic, according to taste.
Beef Marrow Patties.
Blanch one-fourth pound of sweet almonds and pound them in a mortar, adding
occasionally a few drops of orange flower water. When quite smooth, mix with them
two heaped tablespoonfuls of flour, the beaten yolks of three eggs, and sufficient
warm water to make the whole into a smooth paste. Butter some small shallow
moulds, line them with the paste, brush them over with paste brush dipped into well-
beaten yolk of egg, and bake them in a slow oven. Chop and flavor some marrow
with lemon peel, and mix some sweet cream with it. When the patties are cooked,
take them out of their moulds, put a small piece of marrow mixture in each, spread
them over with white of egg that has been whipped to a stiff froth, and dredge lightly
with powdered sugar. Put them in the oven to set the egg, then place them on a dish
that has been garnished with a folded napkin, or an ornamental dish-paper and serve
very hot.
Patties Dauphine.
Roll out one and one-half pounds of brioche paste four times, then with a round
tin cutter two inches in diameter, cut out of this twenty round flats; put in the center
SIDE DISHES.
33
of each one of half of the rounds, a small ball of croquette preparation, then put the
other rounds on top and moisten and pinch the edges together; cut them again with
the same tin cutter to make them round. Spread a floured cloth on a baking-sheet,
arrange the patties on it a short distance from each other, cover with a floured cloth
and keep them in a warm temperature for thirty-five minutes; then put them a few at
a time into boiling fat and fry till nicely browned. When cooked, drain the patties
on a cloth, pile them on a folded napkin on a dish, and serve.
Dresden Patties.
Take three ounces of any kind of cold boiled fish, trim off the skin and bone and
chop the fish fine. Put one ounce of butter into a flat stewpan with a tablespoonful
of flour, stir over the fire until mixed, then pour in a teacupful of milk, and continue
stirring. Put the fish into the boiling milk, season to taste with salt and pepper, and
cook over a slow fire for fifteen minutes. Cut two large rounds of bread about four
inches in diameter and one and one-half inches in thickness and with a three-inch tin
cutter cut half way through each. Dip the rounds well in cream, then drain, and dip
them in well beaten egg. Season a small plate of finely grated breadcrumb with salt
and pepper, and roll the rounds in them, giving a good coating. Put a large lump of
clarified fat or lard into a fryingpan, place it over the fire till blue smoke rises, then
put in the rounds and fry them till lightly browned. Take them out of the fat with a
slice, and lay them on a sheet of kitchen paper to drain for a few minutes. Lift off
the inner round of bread with a sharp knife, and scoop out from the center of the
large round, all the soft bread. Fill the hollows with the fish mixture, and put the
small rounds on top. Place the patties on a hot dish, over which has been spread a
folded napkin or an ornamental dish-paper, garnish with a few neat sprigs of fried
parsley, and serve while very hot.
Patties Financiere.
Butter twelve fluted deep patty pans, line them with short paste, then with
paper, fill them with flour and bake in a moderate oven. When done remove the
paper and flour, coat them inside with a thin layer of forcemeat, and set them at the
entrance of the oven to keep warm. Roll out some puff paste and cut twelve rounds
out of it the same size as the inside of the patty ; brush over with beaten egg, mark
lines across the top with a sharp pointed knife, and bake till lightly browned ; pre-
pare a mixture of little scallops of fat livers and truffles, some cocks' combs and
small quenelles ; put it in a saucepan with a little reduced brown sauce and warm
thoroughly, but do not let it boil. Fill the patties with the mixture, previously turn-
ing them out of the pan ; put on the covers of puff paste, arrange them on a folded
napkin, garnish with parsley, and serve hot or cold.
i 3 4 SIDE DISHES.
Fontange Patties.
Stir up with four ounces of flour the yolks of three or four eggs, a little salt, and
a teacupful of olive oil ; mix with this one and one-half teacupfuls of beer and warm
water mixed in equal quantities ; put a cloth over the basin, and keep it in a warm
place for two hours, then pour the batter into a stewpan. Warm in boiling fat, an
iron mould made for this purpose, of the shape of a little timbale ; when hot, dip it
nearly, but not quite to the rim, in the batter, take it out again immediately, plunge
it into the boiling fat and leave it till the batter is cooked ; then remove it from the
mould and proceed as before until all the batter is cooked. Prepare a salpicon of
poultry meat, pickled tongues, brains and mushrooms, thicken it with a little sauce,
fill the batter shells with it, arrange them on a folded napkin on a dish, and serve.
Lent Patties.
Make fifteen small puff paste patties, as for Vol-au-Vent Patties, and bake
them. When done take them off the baking-sheet, empty the pans, and keep the
patties warm. Beat fifteen eggs and season them with salt and a little grated nutmeg.
Peel and cut into small dice three small truffles, put them in a saucepan with a small
lump of butter, and warm them. Pour the beaten eggs in with the truffles, add a
little more butter broken in small pieces, and stir over a slow fire till thick. Mix a
teacupful of bechamel sauce with the above ingredients, take it off the fire, fill the
patties with the mixture, arrange them on a folded napkin, or an ornamental dish-paper
on a dish, garnish with parsley and serve.
Vol-au-Vent Patties.
Roll out a piece of puff paste to about one-fourth inch in thickness, cut out some
rounds with a tin cutter about two and one-half inches in diameter, then take a
smaller cutter, about one and one-half inches in diameter, and cut nearly, but
not quite through, in the center of each one ; put them on a baking-dish and bake
in a quick oven. The paste rises, and the inside becomes a lid that may be lifted
out with the point of a knife. Trim off the surplus paste from the inside, fill them
with whatever has been prepared for them, put the lids on and decorate with a sprig
of parsley.
Cheese Salad.
Put the yolk of a hard-boiled egg into a basin, and rub it smooth with a table-
spoonful of salad oil ; then add one teaspoonful of salt, one of cayenne and one of
sugar, and made mustard, mixing each one separately, before another is added, and
stirring in one-half pound of grated cheese. The cheese used for this purpose should
be as old as possible without being high. After all are well worked together add
SIDE DISHES. 135
one tablespoonful of onion vinegar, put the mixture into scallop shells, and serve
with shredded lettuce, or other green salad.
Cucumber Salad.
Take three medium-sized cucumbers, lay them on ice until thoroughly chilled,
then pare, taking care to leave no trace of the green skin, a very small bit of which
would be enough to spoil the salad. Slice the cucumbers very thinly and arrange
them in a glass dish or shallow bowl; mix together half a teaspoonful of ground white
pepper and one teaspoonful of salt, and sprinkle this over and among them; then mix.
one tablespoonful of vinegar with two tablespoonfuls ofjthe best salad oil and pour it
over.
Aberdeen Sandwiches.
Chop one ounce of cold tongue or ham and two ounces of cold chicken, put the
chopped meat into a saucepan with one-half teacupful of good sauce and about half
that quantity of curry paste; let it simmer for five minutes, stirring it constantly, then
put it into a bowl and leave until cool. Cut some thin slices of stale bread, stamp
them into rounds about the size of half a dollar silver piece, and fry them to a very
light brown in boiling lard or oil. Lay them on paper to drain. Then put a thick
layer of the cooled mixture of chopped ham and chicken between two fried rounds
of bread, arrange them nicely on a dish, bake them in the oven for four or five min-
utes and serve hot. Garnish with fried parsley.
Adelaide Sandwiches.
Take one-fourth pound of cold chicken and two ounces of cold ham and cut them
into small squares. Mix one teaspoonful of curry paste with one-half teacupful of
sauce in a saucepan over the fire, and when it boils mix into it the ham and chicken;
take it from the fire and let cool; cut some thin slices of stale bread, stamp them into
rounds about the size of a crown piece, and fry them a very light brown in boiling
lard or clarified butter. Put a layer of the mixture of chopped meat and sauce be-
tween two pieces of fried bread. Pound some grated Parmesan cheese and butter
(equal quantities of each) together and roll it into balls about the size of a walnut.
Place one of these balls on top of each sandwich, lay them on a baking sheet and
place them in a quick oven for five minutes. Serve them on a napkin.
Anchovy Sandwiches.
Empty a bottle of anchovies into a bowl of water, and wash them thoroughly,
changing the water frequently.. Put them, when drained and boned, into a mortar
with an equal quantity of butter, and pound well to a very smooth paste. Spread
this over thin slices of bread, put two of those together to form the sandwich, and
serve.
136 SIDE DISHES.
Beef Tongue Sandwich.
Chop one-half pound of cold boiled tongue, put it into a mortar with the yolks
of two hard boiled eggs, one tablespoonful of made mustard, some salt, and a small
quantity of cayenne pepper, and pound it all to a paste. Dilute the paste with two
or three tablespoonfuls of cream. Cut some thin slices of bread, butter them, then
spread them with the mixture, and press them together in pairs. Cut the sandwiches
in halves, put them on an ornamental dish-paper or a folded napkin placed on a dish,
and serve.
Cheese Sandwich.
Grate two ounces of Roquefort, or Parmesan, or other cheese, and work it well
with a pat of butter. Spread this on some thin slices of bread, put another thin slice
on the top of each, press them gently together, cut the sandwiches into finger lengths,
and arrange them neatly on a folded napkin, or a fancy dish-paper, garnishing here
and there with freshly gathered parsley. Serve the sandwiches with salad.
A second method of preparation is to take the yolks of three hard boiled eggs,
and with one ounce of butter melted over the fire mix and rub them to a smooth
paste; grate four ounces of cheese and work it into the paste, and season it to taste
with salt and pepper. Cut three slices of thin bread, and butter; spread each slice
with one-third of this paste, and fold the other half of the slice over it.
Roquefort Cheese Sandwich.
After grating two ounces of Roquefort cheese, work it into a paste with one
ounce of butter, using for the purpose a knife, and season with salt and pepper.
When it is quite smooth, spread the paste on some slices of bread, cover with another
one, press the two carefully together and cut into fingers. If desired, chopped
parsley, or chives, or both, may be mixed with the cheese. It may also be spread
on crackers in place of bread. It is generally served as a course after salad.
Chicken and Ham Sandwiches.
Remove the crusts from thin slices of bread and spread over thinly with butter.
Lay some slices of cold chicken on the buttered sides of the bread, and over these
very thin slices of ham, adding a little salt and mustard to taste. Lay a slice of
bread, with the buttered side downwards, over each, press them gently together, trim
and cut the sandwiches into oblong pieces. Garnish with fresh parsley and serve on
a napkin spread on a dish.
Goose Sandwiches.
These are made of the smoked breasts of geese cut into very fine slices. Cut
some thin slices of bread and butter, lay the slices of goose on them with a few thin
SIDE DISHES. 137
slices of hard-boiled eggs, squeeze over a little lemon juice, season with salt and
pepper and cover them with slices of bread and butter. Cut the sandwiches into
ringers, arrange on a folded napkin, and garnish with sprigs of parsley.
Sandwiches of Goose's Fat Liver.
Take a square loaf of bread, remove all the crust, cut the crumb into slices
about an eighth of an inch thick, butter them well and cover half of them with potted
fat liver ; place the other half on top of them with the butter inside, press slightly
together and cut them up into fingers two and one-half fingers long by one and one-
half inches wide.
Pickle Sandwiches.
Cut some pickles in very thin slices lengthwise, lay them on slices of bread, then
put a thin slice of thin roasted veal or pork on the top of that ; season with pepper,
salt, and mustard, and cover with another slice of bread. Cut the sandwiches into
finger lengths, arrange them on an ornamental dish-paper or a folded napkin spread
over a dish, garnish with neat sprigs of parsley, and serve.
Sardine Sandwiches.
Drain the oil from five or six sardines, skin and "bone them, and cut off their tails.
Place them in a mortar with one anchovy that has been skinned and boned, add one
ounce of butter and a small quantity each of salt, pepper, mace, and cayenne, and
pound until smooth. Cut some rather thin slices of brown bread and butter, spread
the mixture on them, and fold them over. Cut the sandwiches into finger lengths or
quarters, arrange them on a dish over which has been spread a folded napkin or an
ornamental dish-paper, garnish tastefully with sprigs of well washed parsley, and
serve.
Sausage Sandwiches, German.
Pare some slices of bread about an eighth of an inch thick. Cut some slices of
German sausage and remove the skin. Butter the bread, cover a slice of bread and
butter with the slices of sausage, turn another slice buttered side downwards over, and
press them together. When all the sandwiches are made, pile evenly one on top of
another as many as can easily be cut through, trim the edges evenly, cutting off the
crusts, and then cut the sandwiches into pieces of a convenient size. Lay a napkin
on a dish and pile the sandwiches nicely on it.
Savory Sandwiches.
Take some cold cooked ham, or corned beef or tongue, having one-fourth of its
quantity fat; chop it up very finely, and mix with it one teaspoonful of mustard, one
saltspoonful of salt, and sufficient cold water to form a stiff paste. Then add one-half
138 SIDE DISHES.
teacupful of butter worked to a cream. Take some very thin slices of stale bread,
spread them over with the paste, put two slices together, having the paste inside, cut
into shapes or rectangular pieces, and serve.
Shrimp Sandwiches.
Pick one-half pint of shrimps, put them into a mortar with two or three ounces
of butter, season with a little salt and cayenne pepper, and pound them to a paste,
moisten it with a few drops of tarragon vinegar. Cut some rather thin slices of bread
and butter, spread half of them with the paste, fold the remaining half over these, and
press them lightly together. Cut the sandwiches into fingers or quarters, arrange
them on a folded napkin, or an ornamental dish-paper, garnish with parsley, and
serve.
Turkey Sandwich.
Chop finely the dark meat of a cold roast turkey, place it in a saucepan with
about two tablespoonfuls of finely-chopped celery, season with salt and pepper to taste,
and stir over the fire until hot; then add a soft boiled egg and leave it until cold.
Cut some slices of bread about one-half inch in thickness, toast them on both sides,
then split them in two and butter them inside. Spread a layer of the turkey mixture
over one of them, lay the other slice over and press them gently with the blade of a
knife. Cut the sandwiches into halves or quarters, place them on a folded napkin or a
fancy dish-paper that has been spread on a dish, and serve.
Veal Sandwiches.
Chop some cold roast veal and place in a mortar with salt, pepper and a small
quantity of tarragon vinegar. Slice some hard-boiled eggs, remove the yolks, being
careful not to break the rings of white, place them in the mortar with the veal and
pound well. Spread a small quantity of mixed mustard over some slices of bread,
then lay the white rings of egg on them, and fill each ring with the pounded mixture,
cover them with slices of bread and press them lightly together. Cut the sand-
wiches into halves, and serve them.
Welsh Rabbit Sandwiches.
Put one-fourth of a pound of mild American cheese into a mortar with two ounces
of butter and one teaspoonful of mustard, pound well together, and dilute with a small
quantity of tarragon vinegar. After spreading the mixture between slices of bread it
is ready to serve.
Sardines in Eggs.
Skin and bone ten or a dozen sardines and place them in a mortar, remove the
shells from an equal number of hard-boiled eggs, cut them in pieces crosswise, put
SIDE DISHES. 139
the yolks in the mortar with the sardines, adding at the same time a little chopped
parsley, salt, pepper and one-tablespoonful of butter; pound all together, fill the
whites of the eggs with the above mixture, stick them together like whole eggs,
arrange them on a dish with watercress between them and serve.
Beef Marrow on Toast.
Take some large pieces of marrow and put them in a saucepan of well salted
boiling water, and let them remain for one minute, then drain off the water through
a very fine sieve. Take out the marrow, put it on some pieces of toasted bread, place
them in the oven, and cook for five minutes. Sprinkle over them chopped parsley,
salt and pepper, and serve very hot.
Anchovy Toast.
Thoroughly cleanse and fillet the number of anchovies to be used, chop them
small, or crush them with a silver knife. Put this into a small stewpan with some
salad oil, warm slightly, and set it on one side. Cut some slices of bread, nearly half
an inch thick, and trim to an even oblong shape; toast them on both sides on a grid-
iron, basting with a brush dipped in oil. Spread the anchovy over, and sprinkle on
all a little chopped parsley. Push the gridiron with the dressed slices on it into a
sharp oven for a few minutes, and serve hot.
Beef Tongue Toast.
Take the remains of a cold cooked tongue, grate it as finely as possible, add a
little finely chopped parsley, salt and pepper to taste, and form the mixture into a
thin paste with the yolks of eggs. Make the mixture as hot as possible without
boiling, turn it out on to slices of thin toast, dust over with breadcrumbs, brown the
surface with a salamander, or in front of the fire, and serve.
Egg and Anchovy Toast.
Remove the shell from four cold hard boiled eggs and chop them; put a sauce-
pan over the fire with one ounce of butter, one teaspoonful of cornmeal blended
smooth in a little milk, one teaspoonful each of anchovy sauce and vinegar, a season-
ing of pepper and salt, and one pint of milk; stir over the fire until boiling, and then
put in the chopped eggs, stirring them well in. Toast three rounds of bread, butter,
and spread the mixture over, and serve hot.
Ham and Egg Toasts.
Chop finely some cold cooked ham, toast some slices of bread and butter them.
Spread the ham on the toast, and put them in the oven for three or four minutes.
i 4 o SIDE DISHES.
Beat six eggs in a teacupful of milk, and add a little salt and pepper. Put two table-
spoonfuls of butter in a saucepan, pour in the beaten eggs, and stir over the fire until
thick, but do not let boil. Arrange the ham on a dish, the toast also, pour the eggs
over, and serve.
Lobster Toast.
Pick all the meat from the shell of a large lobster and chop it fine ; work two
or three tablespoonfuls of cream into one ounce of butter, then mix with it the
chopped lobster, adding a boned, washed and chopped anchovy, and salt and
pepper to taste. Work all together with the blade of a knife, then mix in lightly
two or three tablespoonfuls of washed and chopped watercress. Cut some slices
of bread about one-fourth inch in thickness, trim off all the crusts and toast them ;
cut them into squares, butter over and spread some of the lobster mixture on each
piece. Strew finely grated breadcrumbs over, and place them in a brisk oven for
a few minutes. Spread a folded napkin, or an ornamental dish-paper over a hot
dish, arrange the pieces of toast nicely on it, garnish with a border of well-washed
watercress, and serve.
Salmon Toast.
Cut as many slices of bread as are required, trim off the crusts, and toast them
to a delicate brown ; butte-r them, and lay on each slice a very thin piece of smoked
salmon ; sprinkle over with pepper, cover with a sheet of buttered paper, and place
them in a brisk oven for a few minutes. When very hot, arrange the pieces of toast
on a hot dish, on which has been spread a folded napkin, garnish with parsley, and
serve.
Sardine Toast.
Scrape the skin off some sardines, split them in halves, lengthwise and remove
the bones. Lay the sardines on a plate, pour some of their oil over them, cover with
another plate and place them in a moderate oven until heated all through. Cut the
required number of slices about three-fourths of an inch thick off a stale square loaf,
toast them to a delicate brown on both sides and butter them. Cut the toast into
fingers and lay a sardine on each ; dust them over lightly with salt and a very small
quantity of cayenne pepper, and squeeze some lemon juice over them. Spread a
folded napkin or an ornamental dish-paper over a hot dish, arrange the fingers of
toast neatly on it, garnish with a border of nicely picked and washed watercress, and
serve. The above makes a very tasty breakfast dish and is very quickly prepared.
Sardines and Anchovy Toast.
Clean well three anchovies, put them into a mortar with one teaspoonful of an-
chovy paste, one ounce of butter and a seasoning of cayenne pepper and grated nut-
meg and pound them to a smooth paste, then pass it through a fine hair sieve. Toast
SIDE DISHES. 141
some thin slices of bread and cut them into pieces about the breadth and length of a
sardine. Wash some sardines in hot water, wipe them dry, divide into fillets by
splitting them down the back and take the bone out. Spread the pounded anchovy
on the toast and lay a filleted sardine on top of each piece. Pile the pieces of toast
on a dish in couples, crossing one another like lattice work and garnish the dish with
chopped hard-boiled eggs.
Shrimp Toast.
Fry some slices of crumb of bread in butter, then cut them into rounds with a
plain two-inch cutter. When cold, mask the fried rounds with shrimp butter, arrange
a star of trimmed shrimp's tails on the top of each and sprinkle a little chopped pars-
ley in the center. Arrange the toasts on a dish over which has been spread a folded
napkin.
Beef
Beef a la Mode.
Cut off the under part of a round of beef, wipe and trim off the edges, place in
a deep earthen dish and pour over it spiced vinegar. This spiced vinegar may be
made as follows : Boil for five minutes a breakfast cupful of vinegar, with an onion
chopped fine, a little salt, mustard, pepper, cloves, and allspice. Let the meat remain
in this mixture for several hours, stirring it frequently ; then dress it with ten or
twelve strips of salt pork cut a third of an inch square, and as long as the meat is
thick insert these strips with a large larding-needle, or bore a hole in the meat with a
carving steel ; or, if desired, larger incisions may be made and stuffed with bread-
crumbs highly seasoned, with salt, pepper, onions, thyme, marjoram, etc., moistened
with hot water, a little butter and a well beaten egg. Bind the beef into shape with
a narrow strip of cotton cloth, in such a manner as to retain the stuffing, and dredge
with flour, then cut up two onions, half a carrot and half a turnip, and fry in fat drip-
pings until brown, and place in a stewpan. Brown the meat all over in the same fat,
and place on a trivet in the pan ; half cover with boiling water, adding a little mixed
herbs tied in a muslin bag ; cover loosely and simmer for four hours or until quite
tender. Take out carefully and remove the strings, and put on a large dish, Skim
off the fat from the gravy, add more seasoning, and thicken with wetted flour worked
smooth, boil for eight or ten minutes and strain over the meat. Decorate with potato
balls and small onions.
Boiled Beef.
Place a brisket or round of beef in a saucepan, with some small pieces of trim-
mings of beef, veal, lamb or fowl giblets, salt and pepper to taste, and pour over enough
water to cover, boiling them until nearly done. Then add an onion, carrots cut in
slices, a bunch of parsley, a teacupful each of browned flour and butter to thicken,
cover the saucepan and cook for about twenty minutes longer. When the meat is
done, remove it and place upon a dish ; strain the liquor, adding a wineglassful of
mushroom catsup or white wine to it, and pour over the meat and serve.
Braised Beef.
Place a layer of sliced onions in the bottom of a stewpan, over which arrange a
layer of thick slices of bacon, and put a piece of round of beef on the bacon, after
tying up the beef to keep it in shape. Set on the fire for twenty minutes, turning it
once or twice, then add a tumblerful of wine, some carrots and onions cut in slices,
142
BEEF. 143
a bundle of sweet herbs, pepper and salt to taste, and add a few cloves. Fill the
pan with sufficient stock to cover the beef, placing the lid on the pan, and braise it
from four to five hours, with a few hot cinders on the lid, or else in the oven. Strain
free from all fat, and serve with the meat gravy.
Braised Beef a la Mode.
Lard a piece of beef with salt pork, let it marinade for twelve hours with the
juice of half a lemon, a little salt and pepper, a sprig of thyme, two bay leaves and
half a dozen parsley roots. Then place the meat in a saucepan with a lump of
butter, and brown both sides well for ten minutes, then remove and place it on a
dish. Add to the gravy a little flour, stirring it well and moisten with a quart of
broth, mixing it slowly while the sauce is boiling ; then replace the beef in the sauce-
pan with two sliced carrots, and a dozen small onions glazed, and cook for an hour,
adding a strong garnished bouquet, a wineglassful of claret wine, and a small piece
of crushed garlic, also salt and pepper to taste. After skimming off the fat and
straining, serve on a hot dish, arranging the carrots and onions in clusters around the
dish.
Braised Beef, Providence Style.
Braise the beef as indicated for braised beef, and add a quarter of a cooked
cauliflower, half a breakfast cupful of flageolet beans, and a cupful of carrots, cut
with a vegetable scoop shortly before serving. Place the vegetables in a pan with
the skimmed gravy and cook for five minutes. Serve the beef on a hot dish, the
vegetables arranged in heaps around it, and pour the gravy over the beef.
Braised Rib of Beef.
Select a chuck-rib of beef, cut very short, cut off the chine bone, leaving only
the rib, then tie with a string and place in a stewpan just large enough to contain it.
Add a couple of pints of broth, a gill of brandy, a little salt, pepper and an onion, a
clove, some sweet herbs and a carrot. Cover the pan and boil slowly for two hours.
At the expiration of that time, if tender, place on a dish, and keep it warm while
preparing the gravy, which is made as follows : Strain the stock in which the meat
has been cooked, and take off all fat, reduce it one-half over the fire, and pour over
the meat, garnishing with macaroni, noodles or vegetables, arranged around the dish
in small heaps.
Chateaubriand of Beef.
Cut the desired number of thick slices from a tenderloin of beef, and slit each
one nearly in halves ; place a teaspoonful of beef marrow seasoned with salt and
cayenne and a few strips of onion in this cavity, pressing the sides together, and
brush over with warm butter or oil ; place on a warm gridiron over a clear fire for
i 4 4 BEEF.
ten minutes. Remove, dish and squeeze a little lemon juice over them, serving as
hot as possible. Care should be taken to prevent the marrow from oozing out dui-
ing the process of cooking.
Corned Beef, American Style.
Soak the desired quantity of corned beef, and put on to boil in fresh cold
water ; skim well and simmer until done and tender. Allow it to become cool in
the liquor in which it has been cooked, and then before quite cold put in a flat hol-
low dish and cover with a board, pressing it with a weight. Remove all the fat from
the meat liquor and save it, but take care that it is not allowed to stand in an iron
vessel. Have ready boiled two or three beets, small carrots, a small cabbage, some
turnip and potatoes, and a small squash ; wash them well and scrape the carrots, cut
the cabbage into quarters, pare the turnips and squash, and cut into slices, and pare
the potatoes. Place the meat liquor on to boil about two hours before required, and
when it boils put in the carrots, cabbage and turnips, and half an hour before dinner
add the squash and potatoes. When tender, take up the vegetables carefully, and
drain on a colander, slicing the carrots. Place the cold meat in the center of a large
dish, and serve the carrots, potatoes and turnips around the edge, with the squash,
cabbage and beets in separate dishes.
Boiled Corned Beef and Spinach.
Use sufficient of the rump or brisket of corned beef, place in a saucepan and
cover with fresh water ; boil briskly for an hour and a half, serving with boiled
spinach.
Hashed Corned Beef.
Slice a couple of onions and brown well on a saucepan with a lump of butter,
and add some well cooked corned beef chopped fine, and four chopped potatoes.
Moisten with a teacupful each of Spanish sauce and broth, seasoning with pepper and
nutmeg. Cook for fifteen minutes, stirring well all the time. Serve in a dish with
poached eggs laid on top, sprinkling over with chopped fried parsley.
Beef Croquettes.
Chop some cold beef, put a pint of poulette sauce in a stewpan, reduce it to one-
half its amount, and thicken with the yolks of some eggs; put the chopped beef in
the sauce, adding a little chopped parsley, salt and pepper, mixing well together, and
spread out on a dish to a thickness of an inch and a half. Let it get firm and cold,
and divide into sixteen equal parts. Strew a board with breadcrumbs evenly, but
very thin, and put the sixteen parts of mince on it, leaving a space of two inches
between each; then cover them with a similar thickness of breadcrumbs, and roll
each part into the shape of a cork, making them as near an equal size as possible.
BEEF. 145
Beat three whites of egg for a minute, so as to mix, but not froth them, and add a
little pepper and salt, a tablespoonful of oil, and the same quantity of water. Dip
the croquettes into this mixture, roll them in the breadcrumbs, and set on a plate.
Twenty minutes before they are to be served have ready some hot fat, arrange
the croquettes in a fry ing-basket, and put them in to fry, and when nearly done
move them gently to insure their becoming of an even color, lift them out
when a light brown color and crisp. Sprinkle with salt, dish, and serve with a
garnish of parsley.
Beef Cutlets.
Trim all fat and skin from some slices of beef and shape them like cutlets,
then salt and pepper them. Place a small lump of butter in a sautepan, and when
melted fry the cutlets on both sides till done. Sprinkle over them a little
chopped parsley, place on a dish, and pour over them a thick brown gravy.
Fricadelles.
Mince some cold-cooked beef and add a slice or two of onion finely chopped,
and if the meat is very lean a slice or two of fat pork maybe added; season with salt,
pepper, sage, thyme, a little lemon juice and parsley, using a little of each, and add a
quarter as much breadcrumbs or boiled rice as there is meat; add one beaten egg
with sufficient water or stock to form a paste. Make this into balls or egg shapes,
put them into a frying pan with butter or dripping and fry to a brown color, or they
may be dipped in breadcrumbs, brushed over with egg, then dipped in crumbs again
and fried in boiling fat. When done drain and serve on a folded napkin spread over
a dish.
Fricandeau of Beef.
Select a good piece of beef, lard it well with bacon seasoned with pepper, pow-
dered cloves, mace and allspice. Place in a stewpan with a pint of broth or beef-
gravy, a wineglassful of sherry and a bundle of parsley and sweet herbs, a clove of
garlic and a shallot or two. When tender cover the meat closely, skim the sauce and
strain it and boil until reduced to a glaze. Then mask the larded side with the glaze
and serve with tomato sauce.
Grenadines of Beef.
Cut up a sufficient quantity of the undercut of the rump of beef into cutlets a
third of an inch thick, lard them with thin strips of bacon, and place in a saucepan
with a small piece of butter, lightly sprinkling the upper side with pepper and salt.
Cook very slowly for fifteen minutes, without approaching frying, and then turn on
the other side and pepper and salt the upper, cooking for fifteen minutes longer.
Have in readiness half a pint of good brown gravy thickened with a little flour, coat
146 BEEF.
the grenadines with this, place on the dish for serving, pour the gravy over and gar-
nish with sprigs of cauliflower, Brussels sprouts.
Hashed Beef.
Cold roast beef, preferably sirloin, should be used for this dish and should be
sliced to half an inch in thickness. Place in a stewpan, cover with stock, adding one
or two minced onions and a turnip to every pound of meat required. Let it heat
slowly and simmer for three-quarters of an hour. Thicken with flour stirred in
smoothly, adding some salt and pepper, and when done place on a dish and serve
with some red currant jelly. A wineglassful of claret and a little sugar may be added
to the gravy, if desired; garnish with sippets of toasted bread.
Bullock's Heart.
In the opinion of most professional cooks the flesh of the heart is too coarse and
greasy to be of any value to serve as a separate dish. This would appear to be some-
what of an error of judgment, for prepared as follows ox-heart is not only tender but
delicious eating. It should be served at all times on very hot plates hot-water
plates, if possible, or dinner plates set upon soup plates containing hot water. The
flesh of a cold bullock's heart is sometimes used either to increase the bulk of jugged
hare or ae- a substitute for the hare itself.
Roasted Bullock's Heart.
Put a heart in a basin of warm water and let it soak for an hour to take out all
the blood. Take it out, wipe dry with a cloth, stuff it with some highly seasoned
forcemeat, tie round a piece of well-buttered paper, pass a spit through it and place it
in front of a clear fire to roast, basting frequently with butter. When done (it will
take about two hours), remove the paper, put it on a dish, pour over piquant sauce
or a little rich gravy.
Stewed Bullock's Heart.
Put a bullock's heart in a basin of water, wash it well and let it soak to clean out
the blood. Take it out, dry on a cloth, cut in halves, rub well over with flour, put
them in a fryingpan with a little butter and fry to a brown color. Put them in a
saucepan with a sprig of thyme, and four or five onions cut in slices and fried, sprinkle
over a little salt and pepper and pour in sufficient water to cover. Place the pan on
the fire and cook slowly for about three hours, then remove, skim the fat from the
liquor, reduce it, thicken and add one wineglassful of claret and one teaspoonful of
moist sugar. Place the heart again in the saucepan, heat it up, put it on a dish, pour
over the gravy and serve.
BEEF. 147
Khulash.
This dish is greatly esteemed in Germany, and is prepared as follows :
Cut about two pounds of the head and fillet of beef into small squares. Cut up
an onion into small pieces and fry it in a pan with a little butter, but not long enough
to allow it to take color ; add the pieces of meat and fry them for ten or fifteen min-
utes, add a little salt or cayenne and then remove the pan to the side of the fire and
cover the lid with hot ashes. Let it remain for forty-five minutes when the moisture
will all have evaporated, pour over a little gravy and continue to cook for an hour
and a half. Dust over a little more cayenne, pour over two tablespoonfuls of
brown sauce and cook for another ten minutes or so. Cut some potatoes in small
dice or squares, blanch in cold water for a few minutes, roll them well in sauce, allow
them to remain for a few minutes and serve.
Beef Kidneys.
The size of these and their somewhat coarse nature, places them quite outside the
usual culinary preparations prescribed for the smaller kidneys, such as sheep's, lamb's,
etc., nevertheless modern artistic cooks have found several effective modes of cook-
ing them.
Fried Beef Kidneys.
Cut two kidneys in slices and soak in warm water for two and one-half hours,
changing the water once or twice so as to cleanse them thoroughly; take the slices
out, dust them over with flour, salt and pepper, put them in a fryingpan with three
ounces of butter and fry to a light brown; place them in a circle on a dish, mix one
tablespoonful of piquant sauce in one-half pint of gravy, add a teaspoonful of moist
sugar, pour it in the center of the circle, and serve. As a rule beef kidneys are coarse,
but cooked as above they are tender and luscious.
Fried Beef Kidneys with Champagne.
Select some kidneys that are of a good color, remove a little of the fat, mince
them, mix with a little chopped parsley and shallots, and season with salt and pepper.
Place this in a fryingpan over a moderate fire, and when done dust over with flour,
add a wineglassful of champagne and two or three tablespoonfuls of bechamel sauce,
and serve.
Beef Kidney Rissoles.
Cut a beef kidney into even slices and shape them into rounds, also the same
quantity of bacon or ham cut into smaller rounds. Place the slices of bacon and ham
over the kidney, then hard boiled eggs in slices over them, and fasten the slices
together with a little warmed butter and the beaten yolk of an egg. Sprinkle over
148 BEEF.
with salt and pepper, cover them well with breadcrumbs, put them in a saucepan with
a little butter, and fry for half an hour. Serve on a dish with brown gravy.
Stewed Beef Kidneys.
Stew some beef kidneys in a little salted water until done, then put them on a
dish and sprinkle over salt and pepper, add a small quantity of flour to the liquor to
thicken it and a little burnt sugar to color it, pour it over the kidneys and serve hot.
Boiled Beef Liver and Rice.
Soak one and one-half pounds of liver in cold water for half an hour to remove
the blood, boil it slowly in three pints of water together with one-half pound of rice,
add an onion, a sprig of parsley, and when the liver and rice are nearly cooked add
pepper and salt to taste, three tablespoonfuls of vinegar and a slice of bacon cut in
pieces. Remove the liver, cut it in slices and return them to the stew till all are suf-
ficiently done. Serve hot.
Macedoine of Beef.
The desired quantity of rump steak is cut into slices half an inch in thickness
and formed into the shape of cutlets, three inches by two inches, flat; trim all to the
same size and lard thickly on one side with fine lardoons of bacon fat. Lay out,
larded side uppermost, in a flat pan and nearly cover with richly flavored stock; cover
the pan with a lid and braise in an oven for an hour. Remove the lid, baste the
slices with gravy and let them remain uncovered in the oven until the larding has
taken color; they are then ready to dish. Use equal amounts of sliced carrots, tur-
nips, cutting into fancy shapes; green peas, string beans, asparagus tops and small
sprigs of cauliflowers; boil all in salted water until quite tender. Melt in a saucepan
a lump of butter, add a little flour and stir in enough milk to make a sauce, adding
pepper, salt and a little grated nutmeg. Put into this sauce all the vegetables, of
which there should be sufficient quantity to make them adhere together, and toss
them gently in it until quite hot. Pile in the middle of a dish and place the slices
around them in a circle. Skin off all fat from the gravy, pour it around the dish but
not over the slices, and serve.
Beef Marrow.
The fatty contents of the long bones of the ox are esteemed a great delicacy.
At one time it was considered quite the fashion to serve marrow-bones at table as a
sort of luxurious supper dish; they were then dressed as follows:
Marrow Bones.
Take the bones from two legs of beef and saw them into pieces about four inches
long. Scrape them well to clean them and put them in cold water to soak. Place
BEEF. 149
them in a saucepan side by side, not standing up, cover with good stock, boil up
quickly and then remove to the side of the fire and cook slowly for an hour and a
half. Take out the bones, drain them, place on a napkin spread over a dish, and serve
with slices of hot toast.
Beef Marrow Fritters.
Put one-half pound of marrow, taken from the largest bones of the animal and
kept in one piece, into cold water and let it soak. Put it in a saucepan with good
broth, boil for ten minutes, and then let it cool in its liquor. When quite cold drain
and cut it into two dozen slices; cover half of them on one side only with some cooked
fine herbs, and over that again put a layer of cooked truffle and glaze it all over (both
truffle and marrow) with a paste brush; when the glaze is cold take the pieces of
marrow singly, dip them into frying batter and fry them; when the batter is dry and
of good color drain the fritters, put them on a napkin folded on a dish, arrange them
in a heap, and serve them with a garnish of fried parsley.
Minced Beef.
Cut some slices of cold roast beef to a half inch in thickness, and cut these into
strips of about an equal width, slicing up finely. Place in a stewpan a wineglassful
of port wine, a shallot chopped fine, the shredded rind of half an orange, and a
little grated nutmeg ; season with salt and cayenne pepper, and allow it to simmer
for four or five minutes. Then add a little brown sauce ; mix the beef with this
preparation, adding a few drops of lemon-juice, and boil the whole again. Place in
the middle of a dish, place a few raspings of bread over it, place some three-cornered
pieces of bread fried in butter around it, a poached egg on each, with scallops of
tongue in between, then serve.
Minced Beef, Spanish Style.
Thin slices of cold meat should be cut into strips and then into dice ; place in a
saucepan, and brown in oil ; add a few finely-chopped shallots, one onion, and a
green pepper cut into pieces. After becoming well-browned, about five minutes,
put in a pint of Spanish sauce, a little salt and a like amount of pepper. Cook
again for fifteen minutes, serving with a teaspoonful of chopped parsley scattered
over it.
Beef, Neapolitan Style.
Procure a fresh piece of silverside, about six or eight pounds in weight, and
make two or three holes in it with a carving knife, and insert in each a strip of fat
bacon, rolled in powdered sweet herbs and pepper. Tie up the meat with tape to
keep it in shape. Then mince some fat bacon, adding a clove of garlic, an onion,
some parsley, thyme and marjoram ; when well mixed, put in a saucepan with the
i 5 o BEEF.
meat and stew, turning the meat frequently until it is well-browned on all sides ;
then moisten with plenty of tomato sauce diluted with a little stock, and pepper
and salt to taste. Stew the meat slowly until done, then remove the tape, and serve
with macaroni around the dish, dressed as follows : Boil it in water, and when soft,
mix it with some of the meat, strained from all fat, adding plenty of grated Parmesan
cheese. The macaroni should be mixed in a warmed tureen, but not over the fire.
Boiled Ox-Tails.
Put two dozen small onions into a saucepan with three pints of water and boil
for about twenty minutes. Cut two ox-tails into pieces, put them into a saucepan
with a large lump of butter and a large onion; brown, then pour in the water from
the boiled onions, adding more water if necessary to cover them. Add of each two
or three carrots and turnips cut in small pieces, putting in the carrots about twenty
minutes before the turnips. Boil slowly, and when the tails and vegetables are done
take them out and keep hot on a dish. Put an ounce of butter in another pan, melt
it, and stir in flour enough to make it quite stiff, pour in the strained gravy from the
tails, adding a little at a time, and stir well till it boils. Place the pieces of tails in
the center of the dish, arrange the vegetables around them, pour over the sauce, and
serve with the boiled onions for a garnish.
Braised Ox-Tails with Chestnut Puree.
Cut the thickest part of a fresh ox-tail into pieces about three inches long, soak
them in water for a few hours, then blanch them. Put some layers of fat bacon and
some sliced carrots and onions into an oblong stewpan, add a bunch of sweet herbs
and the slices of tail. Add a little salt, cover them with white wine and broth mixed
in equal quantities and put on the top some slices of fat bacon or some pork rind.
When boiling move the pan to the side of the fire, put some live embers on the lid
and braise the contents for five or six hours, adding more broth to keep the quantity.
Broiled Ox-Tails.
Wash the tails thoroughly and cut the thick parts into joints, put them in a stew-
pan with a bunch of sweet herbs, a small quantity of salt and cayenne pepper, and
cover with common stock. When the liquor comes to a boil move to the side of the
fire and cook slowly for two and one-half hours. Then remove them and drain well
on a sieve, brush over with a paste brush dipped in the beaten yolk of egg and cover
thickly with finely grated breadcrumbs. Place them on a gridiron and broil over a
brisk fire, turning constantly. When ready lay them on a hot dish, garnish with fried
parsley and serve with a sauceboatful of tartar sauce.
BEEF. 151
Stewed Ox-Tails.
Divide two ox-tails into natural sections, blanch them for twenty minutes, and
then put them into a basin of water and let them soak for an hour; then drain and put
them into a saucepan with five pints of vegetable broth, place it over the fire, when the
liquor boils skim it and add one-half pound of onions, sliced, and one pound of car-
rots turned into cork shapes, three or four cloves, salt and pepper. Remove the pan
to the side of the fire and cook slowly for three or four hours, or until the meat is
tender. Pour the contents of the saucepan into a colander to drain into another
saucepan, take out the pieces of tail, wipe them dry on a cloth and put them into a
one-half gallon saucepan. Take the carrots out of the colander and put them into
another saucepan, skim off the fat from the liquor, reduce it to half its original quan-
tity, and pour half of it in the saucepan with the carrots and the other half into the
saucepan with the pieces of tail. Warm both the carrots and pieces of tail, arrange
the latter on a dish, garnish with the former and ten or twelve good-sized glazed
onions, pour the gravy over all, and serve.
Blanquette of Beef Palates with Truffles.
Rub some beef palates over with salt, put them in a saucepan with a slice of
lemon, a small lump of butter, a saltspoonful of salt, and water enough to cover, and
stew them. Cut some truffles into small pieces, season with salt, put them into a
fryingpan with a lump of butter, and fry lightly over a brisk fire till cooked. Put
the truffles into a sauce blanquette, give them one boil up, move the sauce to the side
of the fire and thicken with a liaison of beaten eggs. Drain the palates, skin them,
put them in the sauce, then turn the whole into a deep dish, and serve.
Beef Palate Croquettes.
Put three palates into a saucepan of water and boil over a moderate fire until
done. Take them out, scrape and cut them into quarters. Put them into another
saucepan with two heads of cloves, a clove of garlic, a little thyme and bay-leaves,
salt and pepper to taste, and sufficient stock to" cover, and cook slowly for half an
hour; then take out the palates, put a teaspoonful of beef forcemeat on each quarter,
roll them up, and dip into a thin paste made of flour, one tablespoonful of olive oil and
one half pint of white wine. Plunge them into a fryingpan of boiling fat, fry until
done, arrange them on a dish with a garnish of fried parsley, and serve very hot or
they will be spoiled.
Curried Beef Palates.
Prepare two palates as for braising, cutting them up into shapes. Put them into
a saucepan with sufficient brown stock to cover, and add one or two onions, cut in
slices, a tablespoonful of curry powder, half the quantity of curry paste, two table-
152 BEEF.
spoonfuls of flour mixed in a little stock, and salt to taste ; put the pan on the fire,
stir frequently, and cook slowly until they are done. Just before serving add two
tablespoonfuls of cream to the liquor, mix it in, turn the whole out onto a dish and
serve very hot.
Fricassee of Beef Palates with Truffles.
The palates must be boiled till tender in salted water in which has been placed a
slice of lemon and a lump of butter. Drain and skin the palates, and cut them into
small pieces. Put two ounces of butter and two tablespoonfuls of flour into a sauce-
pan, and stir over the fire for ten or fifteen minutes, but do not let it take color ; then
pour on gradually the required quantity of chicken broth, add a few mushrooms,
small onions and a bunch of parsley, and boil the sauce till well flavored with the
herbs. Strain the sauce into another stewpan, season with salt and sugar, and boil
till reduced. Cut some truffles into small pieces, put them in a fryingpan with some
butter, add a little salt and fry over a brisk fire. Move the sauce to the side of the
fire, stir in a liaison of beaten yolks of eggs ; put the truffles and palates into the
sauce, and make them hot again without boiling. Turn the fricassee into a deep dish
or a casserole of rice, and serve.
Paupiettes of Beef Palates.
Cut off five or six fillets from some cooked beef palates ; trim, and cut them into
halves. Have ready a salpicon of cooked fine herbs, finished with truffles and thick-
ened with forcemeat, cover the fillets over with it, and roll them round into the shape
of paupiettes, fastening them with small skewers. Dip them into well beaten egg,
cover with breadcrumbs, and fry in a fryingpan of boiling fat until they are done.
Take them out, drain, remove the skewers, place .them on a napkin on a dish, in the
form of a pyramid, and serve.
Beef Pot-Pie.
Cut into pieces of equal size some coarse fat beef, put in a saucepan with cold
water, and stew for about two hours with the lid on the pan ; add a few slices of fat
pork or bacon, an onion, salt and pepper to taste, and a thickening of flour and water ;
turn into a dish, lined with biscuit dough, such as is used for dumplings, cover over
with more of the dough, and bake in a quick oven until done. Turn out on a dish,
and serve.
Beefsteak-Pie with Oysters.
Cut six or seven thin slices out of a sirloin of beef, beat them and season with
salt and pepper, flour them, and arrange in a pie-dish, surrounded by two dozen
blanched oysters. Pour a little cold gravy on the bottom of the dish, and cover the
pie with a good crust, baking lightly for an hour and a quarter.
BEEF. 153
Beefsteak and Kidney Pudding.
Cut some long rump steaks into pieces about a quarter of an inch thick, sprinkle
over them some salt, pepper and flour. Chop up a beef kidney into seven or eight
pieces, and place together with the meat in a buttered basin lined with suet-crust,
pour over a little water or weak stock, and cover with a flat of paste, fastening it all
around the edge. Tie a well floured cloth over the basin, put in a saucepan of water
and boil for two hours, adding more water if necessary. When done, turn the pud-
ding carefully into a dish, and serve very hot.
Beef Rissolettes.
Mince some fresh beef very fine, removing all skin and gristle, mix with it about
a fourth of its weight in breadcrumbs, adding an onion boiled tender, and a few drops
of essence of anchovy, pepper and salt, and sufficient egg to make it into a stiff paste.
Roll into egg-shaped balls, dip each in egg, roll in breadcrumbs, and fry gently.
Then prepare a little gravy by boiling the trimmings of the meat in the water the
onion was boiled in, and when they are done, pour the fat from the fryingpan and
allow the gravy to boil up in it, and thicken with a small quantity of flour and water.
Stir in the juice of half a lemon, seasoning with pepper and salt, and place the risso-
lettes around a heap of mashed potatoes on a dish, pour the gravy around but not
over them, and serve.
Roast Beef, American Style.
Lay the meat on some sticks in a dripping-pan, so as not to touch the water
which it is requisite to have in the bottom; season with salt and pepper and place in
a roasting-oven for three or four hours. Baste frequently with the water in the
bottom of the pan. Sift over the meat before serving some powdered and browned
crackers, and garnish 4 with parsley.
Roast Beef on the Spit.
Remove most of the flap from the sirloin and trim neatly; have a clear, brisk fire,
and place the meat close to it for the first half hour, then move it farther away, bast-
ing frequently, and when done, sprinkle the joint well with salt. The gravy may be
prepared by taking the meat from the dripping-pan, which will leave a brown sedi-
ment; pour in some boiling water and salt, and stir thoroughly, straining over the
meat. A thickening of flour may be added if necessary. Garnish with horseradish
and serve with horseradish sauce in a tureen.
Roast Ribs of Beef.
Break off the ends of the bones of the desired amount of ribs of beef, take
out the chine-bone, and place the meat in a baking pan, sprinkle over some salt, put
154 BEEF.
small lumps of butter over it, and dust with flour, baking in a moderate oven till done.
When done, place on a dish, garnish with horseradish, and serve very hot.
Smoked Beef.
To each twelve pounds of beef rub in the following mixture : One pint of
salt, a breakfast cupful of brown sugar, the same amount of molasses, and half a tea-
spoonful of pounded saltpeter. After rubbing it well into the beef, allow it to lie in
the mixture, turning it over several times, for ten days, when drain, rub bran over it,
and hang in the smoke-house to smoke for several days.
Smoked Beef with Cream.
Place the finely minced beef in a stewpan with a lump of butter, cooking it for
two minutes, and moisten slightly with a little cream, and add two tablespoonfuls of
bechamel sauce, and serve as soon as it boils up.
Smothered Beef.
Select the middle of the rump, flank or round of beef, wipe clean with a moist
cloth, and sear it all over by placing it in a fryingpan and turning it until the surface
is browned. Place in a kettle with a little water, and keep it to just the boiling
point ; fit the cover over tightly to keep in the steam, and add a little water now and
then as it boils away. Cook until quite tender, serving hot or cold, as preferred.
Spiced Beef.
Remove the bones from a piece of thin flank of beef and soak for ten days in a
covered crock containing a pickle composed of the following ingredients: Boil for
twenty minutes two gallons of water, five pounds of salt, two pounds of coarse sugar
and four ounces of saltpeter, with two ounces of black pepper and three ounces of
mixed spice slightly bruised in a mortar and tied up in a muslin bag and a few bay
leaves. Skim off the scum as it rises and let it stand until cold.
Fried Steak, American Style.
Tenderloin or porterhouse steak is to be selected for this, put it on a clean block,
beat it well, but not hard enough to make it look ragged, sprinkle over pepper and
salt and dredge with flour on both sides. Place in a hot fryingpan, cover and fry
until done, turning frequently. Before it gets hard butter well and place on a hot
dish, pepper again, and if desired pour over a tablespoonful of chili vinegar and a
tablespoonful of made mustard, and pour the hot gravy over all. Sift powdered
cracker over, and serve.
BEEF. 155
Hamburg Steak.
Break the fiber of a round steak by beating well, fry two or three onions minced
fine in butter slightly browned, spread the onions over the meat, fold the ends of the
meat together and pound again to keep the onions in the middle; broil two or three
minutes; season with salt and pepper and butter well.
Fried Hamburg Steak with Russian Sauce.
Select a piece of the buttock of beef, remove all the fat, and chop very fine, lay
it in a bowl and add a very finely chopped shallot, two raw eggs, a little salt and pepper
together with a little grated nutmeg. Mix well together and form the mass into six
balls the size of fillets ; roll these in breadcrumbs, and fry in a pan with a little
clarified butter for four or five minutes, turning frequently and keeping them slightly
underdone. Serve with a Russian sauce.
Broiled Loin Steaks.
Two loin steaks of about a pound each are required for this dish ; season them
with salt and pepper to taste, baste on either side with a little oil, place on a
broiler over a bright charcoal fire, and broil them for six minutes, each side. Serve
on a hot dish with Bordeaux sauce over them, and garnished with rounds of marrow.
Fried Minced Beefsteak.
Cut from the flank the desired amount of meat with a little fat with it, season
well with salt and pepper, and pour over a little water. Press this mince into a tin,
and cut into slices, which place in a fryingpan with butter and fry until quite done
and well browned ; then place on a dish, pour over rich gravy, and serve.
Broiled Double Porterhouse Steak.
Select a porterhouse steak of about three pounds in weight, cut thick, and broil
over a rather slow fire (a charcoal fire is preferable) for ten minutes on each side, and
serve garnished with watercress.
Broiled Rib Steak.
Cut the steak about half an inch thick from between the two ribs, remove all the
gristle and fat, trim to a flat pear-shape, and sprinkle both sides with pepper and salt
and oil to prevent outside hardening; broil twelve minutes over a moderate and even
fire. Place about four ounces of maitre d'hotel butter on a dish, lay the steak upon it
and garnish with fried potatoes, serving either piquant, Italian or tomato sauce with
the steak.
i 5 6 BEEF.
Broiled Sirloin Steak.
Cut the steak to about half an inch in thickness, place on a gridiron over a clea.-
fire and broil until done. Place on a dish with a little warmed butter poured over it,
and serve.
Beefsteak with Anchovy Butter.
For a medium-sized steak take one large anchovy, well washed and. dried and
pounded on a board. Mix the anchovy with a little butter, pass through a hair sieve,
place the mixture on a warm dish, lay the steak on it, and serve.
Stewed Beef.
Remove the meat from the bones and place the bones and fat in a stewpan. Cut
the meat into small pieces, and if not already cooked, dredge with salt, pepper and
flour, and brown in a fryingpan with salt pork or drippings, then place in the stew-
pan with the bones. Next cut up two onions, a small turnip and half a carrot into
dice of about a half inch in size, cook lightly in the drippings in the pan and afterwards
add them to the stew: pour in boiling water sufficient to cover all, and simmer for
two or three hours until the meat is quite tender. Pare six or eight small potatoes,
soak them in cold water, pour boiling water over them and boil for five minutes.
When the meat is done skim the stock and drain these potatoes, adding them to the
stew. Season with salt and pepper to taste and remove all the bones before serving.
Tenderloin of Beef.
Select a good tenderloin of beef, wipe well, and remove all fat, veins and tough
portions, trimming into shape. Lard the upper side, and dredge with salt, pepper
and flour, putting several pieces of pork into the pan, under the meat, and bake in a
hot oven for twenty to thirty minutes. If preferable, the pork may be omitted and a
fat piece of the beef used in its stead. Serve the meat with mushroom sauce, or
brush the tenderloin with beaten egg and sprinkle seasoned breadcrumbs over it, or
stuff the incisions made by removing the veins and tendons with forcemeat, and
dredge with salt and flour.
Braised Larded Tenderloin of Beef.
Place in a saucepan a larded tenderloin of beef, pour over it a glassful or so of
white wine, a little brandy, and some rich stock, adding an onion and carrot cut into
thick slices, a bunch of thyme and parsley, and bay leaf, salting and peppering to
taste. Place on the fire and boil quickly, skimming it thoroughly, and remove to the
side and simmer gently until the meat is done. Put the joint on a dish, skim and
strain the liquor, and reduce it; after which warm the whole at the side of the fire for
ten minutes, without boiling, and serve, pouring the gravy around the beef.
BEEF. 157
Broiled Tenderloin of Beef.
Cut a slice from the tenderloin about an inch thick, wipe dry, and dust with
pepper and salt. Grease well a gridiron, and broil the meat over a clear fire,
turning every ten counts for three to five minutes. Spread with maitre d'hotel butter,
and serve.
Broiled Tenderloin, Cheron.
Broil three tenderloin steaks, and place them on a dish on top of a gill of hot
Bearnaise sauce, and put on each steak one hot artichoke bottom filled with hot
Macedoine; then pour over just a small quantity of meat glaze, and serve.
Tenderloin, Florentin.
Three tenderloin steaks should be prepared exactly as for broiled tenderloin,
Cheron, pour a gill of hot Madeira sauce over the steaks and garnish with three hot
artichokes a la Florentin, and serve.
Larded Tenderloin of Beef.
Trim thoroughly a short tenderloin of beef, and dust with salt and pepper, and
flour well ; fasten it into shape with skewers, and lard it in two rows with strips of
pork. Place in a bakingpan with any liquor, and bake for half an hour. It should
first be placed in the coolest part of the oven for ten minutes, and then in the hottest
for the remainder of the time. When done, dish and serve with Hollandaise or
tomato sauce, or mushroom catsup.
Minions of Tenderloin, Lorillard.
When the six timbales, as below described, have been prepared and taken from
the oven, have in readiness six fine tenderloin minions and serve them with the fol-
lowing garnish : Procure six small timbale moulds about an inch and three-quarters in
diameter by two inches deep, butter the insides and place them in an ice-box to
become cold ; then take one good sized cooked carrot, oae cooked turnip, and cut
them with a tube a quarter of an inch in diameter, by one inch in length; a medium
sized white cabbage, with the outer leaves trimmed neatly, should also be placed in
readiness. Then place in a stewpan an ounce of salt pork cut into small dice-shaped
pieces, put in the cabbage and season with half a pinch of pepper, place the pan over
a rather slow fire, cover it well, and cook gradually for half an hour without taking
off the lid. While this is cooking decorate the six timbales by laying a slice of
truffle half an inch in diameter at the bottom of each in the middle, and with a lard-
ing-needle arrange a row of cooked peas around this, decorate half the interior of the
timbales with half of the carrots and turnips, and keep them all inclining slightly
158 BEEF.
toward the right, and the other half toward the left ; and then fill up the timbales
with cooked cabbage, pressing it down gently, so as to fill the moulds entirely
up to the top. Then put them on a roasting pan, fill with hot water to half the
height of the timbales and put them in a hot oven for from three to four minutes, then
remove from the oven and put the pan at the side of the stove so that it will keep
just warm ; cut an oval-shaped slice from an American loaf of bread about an inch
in thickness, pare the edges neatly, and butter it thinly, and brown lightly in the
oven, then lay it on a very hot dish, and dress the six minions on top of the bread
croustade, each lengthwise and overlapping each other a trifle. Then pour over half
a pint of hot Colbert sauce, to which may be added whatever parings of slices of
truffle that remain about a minute before it is to be used ; then with a towel remove the
timbales from the pan one at a time ; turn them upside down, unmould, and decorate
the dish with them, placing one at either end and two at each side, when the dish
should be sent to the table at once.
Minions of Tenderloin, Pompadour.
Procure two and a half pounds of tender fillet of beef, pare it neatly all around
and cut it up into six equal sized small fillets ; flatten them slightly and equally and
put them on a dish, season with a pinch of salt and half a pinch of pepper, then put
them in a pan on a hot range with half a gill of clarified butter, allowing them to
cook for four minutes on either side, next prepare a pint of Bearnaise sauce, dress
three-quarters of it on a hot dish and reserve the other quarter for further use. Next
lay six round-shaped pieces of bread croutons fried in butter over the Bearnaise sauce
and dress the six fillets one on top of each crouton and fix six warmed artichoke
bottoms right in the middle of the fillets ; fill up the artichokes with a tablespoonful
of hot jardiniere garnishing and evenly divide the remaining pint of hot Bearnaise
sauce over the jardiniere, and then cut into six evenly shaped slices one good sized
truffle and put one slice on the top of each in the center of the Bearnaise sauce, and
serve as hot as possible.
Minions of Tenderloin, Sauted Bearnaise.
Cut from the end of a tenderloin of beef some slices about five-eighths of an inch
in thickness, trim and press them into circles and sprinkle over some salt and pepper,
saute then in butter and spread some sauce Bearnaise on a hot dish and place the
minions over, and serve.
Noisettes of Tenderloin of Beef, Plain.
After trimming the tenderloin of beef, cut it into slices and lightly flatten them
to about three-eighths of an inch in thickness and trim them round. After this is
done each one should weigh about three ounces ; then salt them on both sides ; place
BEEF.
them in a saucepan over a hot fire together with a little oil and a similar quantity of
butter and cook rapidly for five to seven minutes. When cooked put them on a plate,
glaze and serve on a dish with a little gravy poured around.
Noisettes of Tenderloin of Beef, Rossini.
After preparing them exactly as for plain noisettes, glaze and place them upon
small pieces of toast, about a quarter of an inch in thickness, and the same shape
and size as the noisettes, and fry them in a little oil. Select some very large chicken
livers, and cut them into pretty thick slices, and cook them in some butter in a pan;
place a slice on each noisette, and then a round slice of truffle on this ; cover the
whole with Madeira sauce with a small quantity of essence of truffle added to it.
Noisettes of Tenderloin of Beef with Puree of
Mushrooms.
Prepare them the same as for plain noisettes, then glaze and lay them on round
flat croustades made from parings of good puff paste, and decorate with mushroom
puree.
Stewed Tenderloin of Beef with Oysters.
To each pound of tenderloin steak required, use one dozen oysters, as follows :
Mix a little butter and flour together in a stewpan; peel and chop up a Spanish
onion, cut up two pickled walnuts and place them in the stewpan, together with two
tablespoonfuls of mushroom catsup and a teaspoonful of Worcestershire sauce. Put
the steak in on top of these, and stew for an hour, turning every twenty minutes or
so, but do not let it come to the boiling point. Open the oysters, remove their
beards, strain the liquor through a sieve, and add them just before serving.
Tournedos of Beef, New York Style.
Cut from a cooked tenderloin of beef the requisite number of slices about half
an inch in thickness and put them in a saucepan with sufficient water to cover
them, warm on the side of the fire, but without boiling. Cut as many slices of
bread to the same size and thickness as the meat and place them in a fryingpan
with some fat skimmed off of stock and fry. Arrange the slices of meat and bread
alternately around the dish, filling the center with cooked string beans or olives, and
serve together with a sauceboatful of piquant sauce.
Tournedos of Tenderloin of Beef, Plain.
These are prepared the same as noisettes of beef, but are smaller in size,
weighing about two ounces instead of three as for the noisettes. Salt and pepper
over and put them in some warm fat in a sautepan and cook over a brisk fire, turn-
160 BEEF.
ing them but once during the process of cooking, then drain, wipe and glaze them,
pour a little clear gravy in the bottom of a dish, lay on the tournedos, and serve.
They should be cooked from four to six minutes.
Boiled Tongues.
Soak the prepared tongues over night in a liberal quantity of cold water to
freshen them slightly, if they are salted, or blanch them if they are fresh. On the
following day put them in a saucepan over the fire with fresh cold water for boiling
tongues, or boiling water for fresh ones, and allow twenty minutes for each tongue
from the time they begin to boil. A sliced lemon, or one teacupful of vinegar, and
one teaspoonful each of whole cloves and peppercorns boiled with a large tongue, or
less for smaller tongues, and so on in proportion, greatly improves the .flavor. When
the tongues are done take them up, peel off the skins and return them again to the
hot liquor to keep them warm, or if they are to be used cold let them cool in it.
When serving them cut them into long slices, beginning near the tip. All the
fleshy parts and the fat near the roots of the tongues will serve to make excellent
hash when cold, but are not generally served with the tongue.
Boiled Beef Tongue with Chestnuts.
Place a pickled beef tongue in a bowl of water to soak, then put it in a saucepan
with water to cover and boil for two hours; take it out, drain and remove the skin.
Cover the bottom of a saucepan with vegetables cut in slices and a few sweet herbs,
place the tongue on top and pour in enough broth and white wine to moisten to half
its height. Cover with paper, place over a slow fire and cook until the tongue is ten-
der, turning it occasionally so as t,o glaze it on both sides. Have ready a pure*e of
chestnuts, moderately thick, spread it over a dish and place the tongue on it; add a
little more broth to the liquor in the saucepan, boil well, skim and strain into another
saucepan, reduce it to half-glaze, pour it over the tongue, and serve.
Braised Beef Tongue.
Soak a beef tongue in warm water until all the blood is extracted and the water
quite cold. Take it out, drain, trim off the superfluous fat and lard the meat with fat
bacon. Put it in a braising pan with a few cloves, carrots and onions, a little thyme
and parsley, two slices of fat bacon or pork, sufficient stock to moisten it and salt and
pepper to taste. Set the pan at the side of the fire, cover it, place hot ashes on the
top and cook slowly for about four hours. Take out the tongue when done, remove
the skin, cut it lengthwise into halves, lay them open on a dish, pour some tomato or
piquant sauce over, and serve.
BEEF. 161
Broiled Slices of Beef Tongue in Cases.
Cut up into thick slices a braised beef tongue, cover them with thin slices of ba-
con, sprinkle over a few minced sweet herbs and wrap the whole round with pieces of
greased paper, folding them in such a manner that the liquor cannot run out; place
them on a gridiron over a clear fire, and broil. When done lay them on a dish, and
serve.
Beef Tongue Financiere.
Blanch a couple of fresh beef tongues, put them into a saucepan lined with vege-
tables cut in slices and a few small pieces of bacon, moisten with a little broth, cover
the tongues with paper, put the saucepan on the fire with hot ashes on the lid, and
cook until the tongues are quite tender. Remove and drain them; trim the thick or
root ends, making them as round as possible, and with a sharp knife cut the tongues
transversely to half their length and remove the top pieces. Cut these into slices and
put them back in their places. Put a flat crouton of fried bread in the center of a
dish, masl^ it with forcemeat poached in the oven, glaze the tongues and put them on
it, with their root ends meeting in the middle; surround the base with a financiere
garnishing and garnish with quenelles made with a spoon, and some larger ones
studded with truffles. Serve with a sauceboatful of brown sauce reduced with wine.
Should salted tongues be used thev will only require to be boiled with plenty of water
until they are tender, and then treated as above.
Beef Tongue, Gourmet Style.
Boil a beef tongue in plenty of water for three hours. When cooked, drain, peel
the skin off, and trim it nicely. Lard and braise four sweetbreads. Take the fillets
of two or three chickens, trim them nicely, put them in a buttered sautepan and saute
them. Peel sufficient potatoes that will when mashed fill a border mould, boil till
tender, then drain and mash them with a little butter; press them in a border mould,
and set them in a bain-marie for a few minutes. When the fillets of chickens are
cooked, take them out of the pan, and keep them hot. Pour one and one-half pints
of white sauce, and one-half pint of veal stock into a saucepan, and boil till rather
thickly reduced, stirring all the time; then mix one teacupful of cream with it, and
season with a small quantity of moist sugar. Glaze the tongue and sweetbreads.
Turn the potato border on a hot dish, put the tongue in the center, place two of the
sweetbreads at each end, the fillets of chicken at each side, pour the sauce over them,
straining it through a fine hair sieve, and serve at once.
Minced Beef Tongue.
Cut any cold cooked beef tongue into oblong-shaped pieces, cut them again
transversely into slices, and put them into a saucepan with a few slices of uncooked
162 BEEF.
truffle. Cut an onion and three small Jerusalem artichokes into slices and again into
quarters, place them in a fryingpan with a little oil, and sprinkle with salt and
pepper, and fry over a moderate fire until done. Add one tablespoonful of finely-
minced parsley, cook for a minute or two, and then add the pieces of tongue and
truffles. Cook for three or four minutes longer, remove the pan from the fire, and
pour in the juice of two lemons. Turn the mince out onto a dish, garnish with
pieces of bread fried in butter, and serve.
Scalloped Beef Tongue.
Chop up sufficient cold cooked beef tongue to fill two breakfast cups, and mix
in one teaspoonful each of capers, chopped parsley and salt, a little pepper, and one
tablespoonful of onion juice, mixed with a teacupful of stock. Sprinkle sifted
breadcrumbs over a well-buttered scallop dish, put in the tongue preparation, cover
with more breadcrumbs, making the total quantity used one breakfast cupful, and
put some small pieces of butter here and there over the top. Place the dish in the
oven, bake for twenty minutes, remove and serve at once.
Stewed Beef Tongue.
Cut the root off a tongue, but do not take all the fat off. Salt the tongue
for a week with common salt and a little saltpeter, turning it every day. Then
boil it till the skin can be easily removed. When skinned, stew it in a little good
gravy until sufficiently tender, seasoning with mushroom catsup, soy, cayenne,
pounded cloves and a little salt, if required. Serve with morels, mushrooms or
truffles.
Beef Tongue, Terrapin Style.
Put a salted beel tongue into a saucepan of water, and boil it until quite tender ;
remove it, drain, and cut in halves lengthwise. Stick a few cloves in, put the pieces
into another saucepan with sufficient water to cover, add an onion cut in slices, a
little mace and browned flour, boil for a few minutes, and put in three finely chopped
hard boiled eggs, remove the pan from the fire, pour in one wineglassful of wine,
turn the whole out on a dish, and serve very hot with a garnish of hard boiled eggs
cut in slices.
Tripe.
This is usually bought ready prepared, but as instances may occur when the
cook may have to clean it, the following instructions may be useful : Wash the
stomach well as soon as it is taken from the bullock, changing the water several
times ; dust the dark inside coat with quicklime, and scrape it at once. Cut it up into
four parts, dip them into boiling water, and scrape them until they become perfectly
white. Put them into a bowl with a weak brine thickened with meal, and allow them
BEEF. 163
to remain for a day. Scrape and soak them in this way for seven or eight days, then
put them into a saucepan with oatmeal gruel to cover, and boil it until tender. The
tripe should be tied up in a cloth. Turn it out of the cloth, place it in a bowl of
weak brine, let it remain for a day or so, and it is then ready for use. Or put the
pieces of the stomach of a fat bullock, one at a time, in a saucepan of water, and
warm them ; remove, scrape well, put them into a bowl of slightly salted water, wash
them well, change the water daily, and allow them to soak for five or six days, by
which time they should be quite white. Place them in a saucepan of water and boil
them ; if not required for immediate use, keep them in vinegar.
Tripe a la Mode de Caen.
Take five or six pounds of double tripe, one cow heel, three calf's feet, all well
washed and cleaned in fresh water, and cut them into pieces two inches long by one
inch square. Have handy an earthenware pot or saucepan, place some of the pieces of
feet at the bottom, cover over with tripe, then a layer of sliced onions and carrots,
and continue the same until the vessel is full, seasoning each layer. Tie up in a
cloth a sprig of thyme, a bay leaf, a dozen whole peppers and half a dozen cloves ;
place this in the middle of the pot, and pour over one pint of cider or white wine
and a wineglassful of brandy. Cover the top over with some stalks of green leeks,
parsley roots and cabbage leaves, put the lid on the pan, fastening it down with paste,
so that the steam cannot escape, and leave it for ten hours in a very slow oven.
Serve it on a hot dish.
>e and Onions.
Tripi
Putonepoundof tripe into a saucepan with four large onions cut into slices, sprinkle
over one teaspoonful of salt and a small quantity of pepper, and pour over one pint of
water, place the saucepan on the fire and boil for about twenty-five minutes, or until
the tripe is tender. Take out the tripe and onions, skim the fat off the liquor, reduce
it to half its original quantity, add a thickening of milk and flour, and boil for a minute
or two; replace the tripe and onions, simmer at the side of the fire for fifteen minutes,
turn the whole out onto a dish and serve hot.
Baked Tripe with Potatoes.
Cut one pound of tripe into one-inch squares, put them into an earthenware
basin with four chopped onions, and one teaspoonful each of pepper and salt, cover
with stock or water, place the basin in a slow oven and bake for three hours.
Strain off the liquor into a saucepan, skim it, add sufficient flour to thicken and boil
it up once. Arrange the tripe and onions in a pie-dish, pour over the liquor and
cover the top with mashed potatoes, stand the dish in a hot oven and bake for ten
minutes, so as to heat the mass thoroughly and brown the surface. Remove it and
serve the dish without delay.
1 64 BEEF.
Bordelaise.
iripe
Take one and one-half pounds of tripe and cut it into a dozen lozenge-shaped
pieces and let them marinade for two hours in one tablespoonful of oil, with a pinch
of salt, half a pinch of pepper, one bay-leaf, one sprig of thyme, half a dozen whole
peppers, the juice of a lemon and a crushed clove of garlic. Drain, roll them in flour,
then in beaten eggs, and lastly in sifted breadcrumbs. Fry them in one ounce of
clarified butter in a pan for five or six minutes on either side, and serve with one gill
of maitre d'hotel butter, adding to it one teaspoonful of meat glaze.
Broiled Tripe.
Wash well a piece of tripe, place it in a saucepan with sufficient milk and water
to cover it, and boil it for twenty or twenty-five minutes. Take it out, drain it, cut it
up into pieces, brush them over with warm butter, sprinkle over salt and pepper to
taste, place them on a gridiron over a clear fire, and broil until well browned. Place
them on a napkin spread over a dish, and serve.
Broiled Tripe with Tartar Sauce.
Put two pounds of tripe cut up into large squares into a basin, sprinkle them
with salt, pepper, or cayenne, add two tablespoonfuls of minced onion and a small
quantity of chopped parsley, pour over some oil, and allow the whole to remain for
an hour. Take them out singly, roll them in oil, cover with breadcrumbs, put them
on a gridiron over a bright fire, and broil them for twenty minutes or so. When
done, put them on a dish, and serve with tartar sauce, either poured around or served
in a sauceboat.
Tripe, Creole Style.
Cut one and one-half pounds of tripe into small pieces, fry them in a pan
with two ounces of butter, one chopped onion, and half of a green pepper, also
chopped. Brown them slightly for six minutes, then transfer them to a saucepan
with one chopped tomato and one-half pint of Spanish sauce, and season with one
pinch of salt and half a pinch of pepper, adding a garnished bouquet, also a crushed
clove of garlic. Cook for ten minutes, and serve with one teaspoonful of chopped
parsley sprinkled over.
Curried Tripe.
Cut the tripe into small pieces. Slice two or three onions, according to size,
place them in a stewpan with a lump of butter, and brown them over a quick fire.
Put the tripe in with the onions, pour in enough broth to cover it, and stew gently
until tender. Put one teaspoonful of flour in a basin with one tablespoonful of
curry powder ; then stir in slowly one-half teacupful of cream and one teacupful
BEEF. 165
of broth. When quite smooth stir the curry in with the tripe, and boil it for a few
minutes longer, until thickened, stirring now and then. When cooked, turn the
tripe onto a hot dish, garnish with croutons of fried bread, and serve.
Fricassee of Tripe.
Cut one pound or so of tripe into two-inch squares, place them in a saucepan
with a small quantity each of mace and ground ginger, sweet herbs, and chopped
onion, pour over sufficient white wine to cover, stand the saucepan on the fire and
cook for fifteen minutes. Remove the herbs, add a little chopped parsley, half of
an anchovy cut up small, the juice of a lemon, one breakfast cupful of cream, and
a thickening of yolk of egg and butter. Season the mixture well, stir it over the
fire for a few minutes, turn the whole out onto a dish, and serve with slices of
lemon for a garnish.
Tripe, Lyonnese.
Wash thoroughly one and one-half pounds of tripe, boil it until tender in water,
cut it up into pieces about one and one-half inches long and one inch wide, sprinkle
over them a seasoning of salt, pepper and flour, put them into a fryingpan with boil-
ing lard, and fry for five or six minutes. Remove them and drain on a sieve. Put
two or three onions, cut up into slices in a fryingpan with a small quantity of oil,
butter and a clove of garlic, and cook them until they are well colored ; then add the
tripe, sprinkle over a little cayenne, toss the pan over the fire until the onions are
cooked, take out the garlic, add a small quantity of chopped parsley, take the pan
off the fire, squeeze in the juice of two lemons, turn the whole out onto a dish, and
serve.
Tripe, Poulette Style.
Put a large chopped onion into a saucepan with a little butter and fry to a good
yellow color; add one pound of tripe cut into squares, season well with salt and pep-
per and fry it until the moisture of the tripe is reduced, dredge over two tablespoon-
fuls of flour and add gradually sufficient rich broth to moisten. Stir well until the
liquor boils, then add a bunch of parsley, boil for two or three minutes, remove the
saucepan to the side of the fire and simmer gently for twenty-five minutes, Remove
the pieces of tripe, place them on a dish and keep warm. Reduce the liquor, thicken
it with yolks of eggs, pour it over the tripe and serve. A small quantity of butter,
chopped parsley, lemon juice, grated nutmeg, etc., may be mixed with the liquor.
Stewed Tripe.
Wash thoroughly one pound of tripe, boil it until tender and then drain it. Put
two tablespoonfuls of butter into a stewpan with two tablespoonfuls of flour, and stir
over the fire until well mixed; then pour in by degrees one pint of milk and keep on
166 BEEF.
stirring until boiling. Put the tripe in the sauce, season to taste with pepper and salt
and boil it gently for fifteen minutes or so. Turn the tripe and sauce onto a hot dish,
garnish with croutons of fried bread or sippets of toast, and serve.
Beef Vinaigrette.
Cut a slice of about three inches in thickness from a round of boiled fresh beef,
put in a saucepan and pour over it a wineglassful of white wine and a little water, add
a bay leaf, a small bunch of sweet herbs, two or three cloves and salt and pepper to
taste. Place the saucepan over the fire and cook until the liquor is about half ab-
sorbed, turning the meat frequently. Place on a dish when cold, and serve with a
sauceboat of the liquor strained and a little vinegar mixed with it.
Vol-au-Vent of Beef Tendons.
Remove the nerves and skin from the beef tendons and place them in a basin
with enough water to cover them and let them soak until quite white; then place in
a saucepan of salted water and a little vinegar, and boil for ten minutes. Line a vol-
au-vent case with good puff paste and bake in an oven; when done take out, and after
it has become cold, turn it out. Put in the oven for a few minutes to warm and then
put in the pieces of tendon and pour over sufficient bechamel sauce to cover them,
and put a couple of dozen boiled button mushrooms on top of this; place the vol-au-
vent in the oven, and serve very hot.
Lamb.
Ballotin of Lamb with Peas.
Remove the bone from a shoulder of lamb weighing about three pounds, leaving
the end bone for a handle; season with one-half tablespoonful of salt and the same
quantity of pepper. Sew it up with string, fasten firmly and boil for about three
minutes in the stockpot. After allowing it to cool, lard the top with a larding-needle
as for a fricandeau and place it in a saucepan with a piece of pork skin, an onion and
a carrot cut into pieces. Brown lightly for six or eight minutes, then moisten with
one-half pint of Spanish sauce and one-half pint of broth, cook in the oven for three-
quarters of an hour, remove it and strain the sauce over one pint of hot boiled green
peas, then cook for two minutes longer. Place the garnishing on a hot dish, remove
the strings from the ballotin, lay it on top of the garnishing, and serve.
Blanquette of Lamb.
Remove the meat from two shoulders of lamb, cut it into moderate-sized squares
and steep them in water for one hour. Place the meat in a stewpan, cover it with a
little water or broth and one teacupful of white wine. When the liquid boils strain
the broth through a sieve into a basin and allow it to remain for a few minutes to
settle. Put one chopped onion into a stewpan with a little butter and fry till browned;
then mix the meat with it and fry them together for a few minutes. Sprinkle in a
little pepper, salt and flour and pour in by degrees enough of the broth to reach the
top of the meat; add a few cloves and peppercorns, some trimmings of mushrooms
and a few sprigs of parsley and a bay leaf. Place the stewpan over the fire and let
the contents boil quickly for ten or twelve minutes in order to reduce the liquor to
one-fourth; then move the stewpan to the side of the fire and finish cooking the
meat. When done skim the fat off the sauce, stir in three eggs that have been beaten
with some milk and continue stirring over the fire until thick, taking care that it does
not boil; grate in a little nutmeg, remove the meat from the stewpan with a fork,
arrange it on a hot dish, strain the sauce over, sprinkle a little parsley on the top, and
serve.
Braised Breast of Lamb.
Remove the bones from a breast of lamb with a sharp-pointed knife, season the
meat well with pepper and salt, then roll it up and tie it securely with twine. Chop
fine one onion, a slice of carrot and a slice of turnip. Put them in a braising pan
with a lump of butter and stir over a brisk fire for five minutes; then put in the lamb,
167
168 LAMB.
sprinkling it well with flour. Place the lid on and stand the stewpan where the meat
will cook slowly for another hour, basting it frequently. When ready remove the
meat, cut off the string and place it on a hot dish. Skim the fat off the gravy, strain
the latter over the meat, and serve while very hot with a sauceboatful of either tomato
or bechamel sauce.
Braised Breast of Lamb, Milanese Style.
Trim a breast of lamb, and put it into a saucepan in which there is a layer of
thin slices of bacon (fat) ; put some slices of lemon on the breast, then cover it with
more slices of fat bacon. Pour in one-half pint of stock, and pack in an onion cut in
quarters. Put the lid on the stewpan with a few live ashes on the top, and braise
slowly by the side of the fire until the breast is done, glazing it when cooked. Place
some dressed macaroni on a hot dish, lay the joints on it, pour over some rich brown
gravy, and serve.
Broiled Breast of Lamb.
Heat a gridiron over a clear fire, grease it well with a little fat, lay the breast of
lamb upon it, and when well done on one side turn it and let it cook on the other.
Warm two ounces of butter, work in a little pepper and salt and spread it over the
meat. Place the joint on a hot dish, and serve with mint sauce in a boat.
Stewed Breast of Lamb.
Cut a breast of lamb into pieces, season properly with pepper and salt, and stew
until tender in enough gravy to cover the meat. Thicken the sauce, pour in one wine-
glassful of sherry, and serve on a dish of stewed mushrooms.
Brochettes of Lamb.
Take a raw leg of lamb, remove the bone and pare off the skin, then cut it into
several pieces of equal size. Put them in a bowl with two finely chopped shallots,
one teaspoonful of chopped chives, and one teaspoonful of parsley, and a crushed
clove of garlic. Add the juice of half a lemon, a tablespoonful of salt and one tea-
spoonful of pepper, also half a teaspoonful of nutmeg. Let them steep for two hours,
turning at times, then take the pieces out, run skewers through the centers inter-
larding them with pieces of salt pork, dip the brochettes in breadcrumbs and broil for
four minutes.
Broiled Lamb Chops.
Trim the required quantity of chops that have been cut from a loin of lamb, put
them on a heated gridiron and broil them over the fire. When they are nicely browned
on both sides, put a mound of mashed potatoes on a hot dish, lean the chops against
it, and serve.
LAMB. 169
Broiled Lamb Chops in Papers.
Trim the chops neatly, remove the skin and fat, dip them in warm butter, and
then strew parsley and chives over them. Wrap them in sheets of buttered paper,
and broil over a clear fire. When cooked pour the chops on a dish, and serve with
gravy.
Fried Lamb Chops.
Pare six lamb chops and split them through the center. Fill the inside with
some very fine salpicon, season with salt and pepper, close together and dip in beaten
eggs, then in fresh breadcrumbs; fry for four minutes on each side in two ounces of
clarified butter, and serve with one gill of hot Montglas sauce, after arranging a
curled paper at the end of each chop.
Lamb Chops, Maintenon Style.
Select six well trimmed and flattened lamb chops, season with a pinch of salt and
a half a pinch of pepper, place them in a stewpan, with one ounce of butter, and fry
on one side only for one minute. Cover the cooked side with a chicken forcemeat.
Sprinkle over them a finely minced truffle, put them on a well-buttered baking dish, and
place them in a slow oven for four minutes. Place a paper frill on the end of each
chop, and serve with one-half pint of hot clear veloute-sauce poured on the dish, and
the chops laid on that.
Lamb Chops with Brown Sauce.
Cut a few lamb chops about one-fourth of an inch thick, trim nicely, dip them
in beaten egg, then roll them in a seasoning of finely minced parsley, a little salt and
pepper, lemon peel, and a small quantity of grated nutmeg. Heat a large lump of
butter in a deep fryingpan over the fire, then put in the chops, and fry until well
browned. Put one tablespoonful of flour and a small lump of butter into a stewpan,
stir over the fire, then pour in one-half pint of clear veal gravy, and stir until boiling;
drain the chops, put them on a hot dish, stir in one wineglassful of red wine with the
sauce, strain it over the chops, and serve.
Lamb Chops with Champagne Sauce.
Pare neatly and flatten half a dozen lamb chops, season with one pinch of salt
and one-half pinch of pepper, fry slightly in a stewpan with one ounce of butter and
for a space of one minute on each side, then allow them to cool. Cover the surfaces
with chicken forcemeat, wrap them in a skin taken from the stomach of a pig, then
dip in beaten egg and fresh bread crumbs ; cook in a stewpan with four ounces of
butter for four minutes on each side. Arrange a paper frill at the end of each chop,
ijo LAMB.
and serve with one-half pint of hot champagne sauce on the dish and the chops
dressed over.
Lamb Chops with Perigueux Sauce.
Pare neatly half a dozen chops, flatten, and season with one-half pinch of pepper
and one pinch of salt. Make an incision on each chop, and garnish the inside with a
truffle previously prepared by dipping in hot glaze, then dip the chops in beaten egg,
roll them in fresh breadcrumbs, and put them in a stewpan with two ounces of but-
ter, frying them for five minutes on either side. Pour one-half pint of Perigueux
sauce on the di-sh, arrange the chops over it with curled paper on their ends, and
serve.
Lamb Croquettes.
Chop fine three pounds of raw lamb, peel and mince three onions, mix them
all well together and season with pepper and salt. Divide the mixture into small
quantities and roll them into balls, place them in a saucepan of water and boil. Put
the yolks of four eggs in a saucepan with the strained juice of two lemons and one
saltspoonful of salt, and beat well Stir over a slow fire with a wooden spoon until it
thickens, taking care to move it off the fire before the eggs have time to boil, or they
will spoil by curdling; then mix in by degrees one teacupful of the liquor in which
the meat balls were boiled, stir the sauce at the side of the fire for ten minutes,
arrange the croquettes in a group in the center of a dish, pour the sauce round them,
and serve while very hot.
Curried Lamb.
Cut a cooked leg of lamb into middling-sized dice, and remove all the skin and
gristle. Fry a chopped onion in a stewpan with a little butter until browned, then
put in two breakfast cupfuls of well washed and dried rice, stir a few minutes over the
fire, moisten to twice its height with unskimmed broth, and boil the rice on a slow
fire adding frequently more broth to prevent it from getting too dry. When nearly
tender mix in two small tablespoonfuls of curry powder diluted with three table-
spoonfuls of tomato sauce, and stir over the fire for two or three minutes, then take
it off, put in the chopped meat, place the lid on the saucepan and stand it at the side
of the fire to heat the lamb thoroughly. Pour the gravy on a hot dish with fried
bread, and serve.
Broiled Lamb Cutlets.
Cut some cutlets of a neck of lamb and trim them as for mutton cutlets, beat the
yolks of two eggs with a little warmed butter, dip in the cutlets, then in breadcrumbs,
and then put them on a gridiron over a clear fire; when they are done on one side
turn them, arrange on a dish, and serve with gravy.
LAMB. 171
Lamb Cutlets, Duchess Style.
Trim neatly some cutlets that have been cut off the neck of a lamb, scraping the
top of the bone until clean, place them in a fryingpan together with a lump of butter,
and fry. When cooked drain the cutlets and leave them until cold. Put into a
saucepan, two or three mushrooms a finely chopped onion, a sprig of parsley and a
lump of butter; stir them over the fire until hot, then pour in one breakfast cupful of
white sauce, the juice of a lemon, a liaison of three well beaten yolks of eggs and one
tablespoonful of powdered sugar. Stir the mixture by the side of the fire until it is
of the thickness of cream, then dip the cutlets into it, coating them well with the
sauce and setting them one side to cool. Brush the cutlets over with beaten yolk of
egg, roll them in breadcrumbs, and fry in butter until well browned. Put a puree of
green peas in the center of a hot dish, forming the cutlets around it in an upright
position and slightly overlapping one another, then serve with a sauceboatful of
white sauce.
Fried Lamb Cutlets.
Trim the outer skin of two breasts of lamb, place them in a saucepan, cover
with veal stock, and boil slowly. Prepare a veal forcemeat, season highly with
herbs and spices, and bind it with a raw egg. When the breasts of lamb are
tender bone them and spread the forcemeat over the inside, laying them one on
top of the other. Place them between two dishes with a heavy weight on top and
leave them for several hours. Take some small bones from the ribs, trim to the
shape of cutlet bones and blanch them. Cut the cold breasts into pieces, forming
them into the shape of cutlets. Beat two whites and three yolks of eggs together
with two tablespoonfuls of oiled butter, the butter being mixed in a drop at a time;
brush the cutlets over with a paste brush dipped in the beaten egg mixture, roll
them in fine white breadcrumbs that have been seasoned with salt, pepper and,
if desired, a small quantity of cayenne pepper. Leave the cutlets for twenty or
twenty-five minutes, then egg and breadcrumb them again, proceeding as before;
leave again for half an hour, then give them a third coating of egg and bread
crumbs. Place a large lump of butter or clarified fat in a large stewpan, place it
over the fire until a blue smoke arises, then put in the cutlets and fry to a nice
brown. When done drain the cutlets on a sheet of kitchen paper for a minute,
stick one of the whitened bones in each and fasten a small paper frill round them.
Pile some mashed potatoes in the center of a hot dish, lean the cutlets against
them, garnish with fried parsley, and serve with demi-glaze sauce.
Lamb Cutlets in Papers.
Take the fat and skin from three cutlets, and dust with pepper and salt. Put
three tablespoonfuls of butter into a fryingpan, and place it on the fire, when it has
172
LAMB.
melted sufficiently put in the cutlets, and fry them for a quarter of an hour; add one
teaspoonful of lemon juice and one teaspoonful of finely minced parsley, one table-
spoonful of Worcestershire sauce, dust in one tablespoonful of flour and cook for
another five minutes. Remove the cutlets and add four tablespoonfuls each of glaze
and water to the liquor in the pan, stir well until the glaze is melted, and then cool.
Fold as many sheets of paper as there are cutlets to the size of note paper, and cut
them so that when they open they will be in the shape of a heart. Place them in
warm butter, and allow them to stand for a little time. When the sauce is cold spread
it over the cutlets, and place them one at a time on the side of the papers, with the
bones turned toward the point of the heart. When all are thus prepared range them
on a baking-sheet and cook in the oven for ten minutes. Dress them on a dish in a
circle, and fill up the hollow with fried potatoes.
Lamb Cutlets, Jardiniere.
Select a dozen or so of lamb cutlets, trim them to a like shape and size, dust with
pepper and salt, and place them in the bottom of a flat stewpan; put a small lump of
butter in with and fry over a clear fire. When done on one side turn over and cook
the other. After the meat is done strain the butter off the cutlets, put in a little
melted glaze, and turn them about over the fire for two or three minutes. Mash some
boiled potatoes, and form them in a border on a hot dish; arrange the cutlets in
a circle on the border, fill the center with a garnish of new vegetables, and serve with
a sauceboatful of freshly made gravy well thickened.
Lamb Cutlets, Villeroy.
Trim the desired number of lamb cutlets, place them in a stewpan with a lump
of butter, and fry; when cooked, press them between two plates to cool. Trim the
cutlets again, dip them in a little villeroy sauce, sprinkle over them some fine herbs,
place them on a cold baking sheet, and let the sauce set; lay some breadcrumbs over
the sauce. Put some lard or butter into a fryingpan, and when it is boiling put the
cutlets in, and fry both sides equally until nicely browned. Place a folded napkin on
a hot dish, drain the cutlets, put them on it, garnish with fried parsley, and serve.
Lamb Cutlets with Asparagus.
Cut into one-half inch lengths the heads of a bundle of asparagus; also cut into
lengths of the same size as much of the stalks as is eatable, and boil them separately
in salt and water; when cooked drain, place them in separate fryingpans with a little
butter, season to taste with pepper and salt, and toss them about over the fire. Trim
the cutlets,, dip them in beaten egg and breadcrumbs and fry in butter to a pale golden
brown. When cooked drain the cutlets on a sheet of paper before a clear fire for a
LAMB. 173
second, and then form them in a circle on a hot dish, pile the asparagus in the center,
arranging the heads on top, and serve.
Lamb Cutlets with Spinach.
Cut a neck of lamb into cutlets, trim them to a nice shape, brush over with warm
butter and season with salt and pepper; put them in a double gridiron and broil in
front of a clear fire. Pick the spinach and wash it in a great many waters, as it will
be hard to clean without doing so; boil it, and when it is cooked drain it on a hair
sieve. Put one ounce of butter and one tablespoonful of flour into a saucepan and
stir over the fire until well mixed; pass the spinach through the sieve into the butter,
moisten with a small quantity of milk, and stir it over the fire until boiling. Pile the
spinach in the center of a hot dish, arrange the cutlets around it, and serve.
Epigrammes of Lamb with Asparagus Tops.
Braise a small piece of breast of lamb, and when it is cooked take it out of the
pan and place it between two dishes with a weight on the top and leave until cold.
Afterwards cut the lamb into equal-sized pieces, trim them to a cutlet shape and fix a
bone in each like a cutlet. Trim an equal number of lambs cutlets and make them
into equal pieces, and fry them. Season with salt and pepper and a few drops of
lemon juice, dip in well-beaten egg and roll in breadcrumbs, giving a good coating.
Place a piece of butter on the frying pan, and when melted place it on the cutlets,
and fry until they are a light golden brown on either side, draining well as they are
cooked. Arrange the cutlets on a hot dish, put some boiled heads of asparagus in
the center, garnish with parsley, and serve.
Epigrammes of Lamb with Macedoine.
Tie two breasts of lamb together and boil them in a stock-pot for forty-five
minutes. Drain well, then take out the bones, and place a heavy weight on it. When
quite cold, cut each breast into three heart shaped pieces, dip them in oil or fat, add
one tablespoonful of pepper, roll in breadcrumbs, and broil over a slow fire for four
minutes each side. Take six broiled breaded lamb chops, prepare, and cook exactly
the same, and serve with half pint of hot macedoine or any other garnishing that may
be liked; arrange the breasts and chops on the garnishing,
Fricassee of Lamb,
Cut the breast of a lamb into square pieces, sprinkle salt and flour over, and
brown in a little butter. Place them in a stewpan with a sliced onion and a little
water, and simmer until the bones will slip out easily. Take the lamb out, remove
the bones, strain the liquor, and pour off the fat. Boil the liquor over again, put in
174 LAMB.
the meat with a little salt and pepper, and stew for a little while longer; then add
one quart of peas, and simmer for fifteen minutes. When ready to serve turn the
meat onto a hot dish.
Hashed Lamb.
Fry two chopped onions in a saucepan with about one ounce of butter, add one
pint of cooked chopped potatoes, and one-half pound of cooked hashed lamb, season
with one teaspoonful of pepper, one tablespoonful of salt, and one-half teaspoonful
of nutmeg. Moisten with one-half pint of broth, and cook for ten minutes. Put the
hash on a hot dish, and arrange half a dozen poached eggs on top. Serve sprinkled
over with chopped parsley.
Roasted Haunch of Lamb.
Trim the shank bone of a haunch of lamb, fold the loan underneath, fasten it
with skewers, season and roast in a pan in a hot oven, basting often with butter.
When it is nearly cooked sprinkle some stale breadcrumbs and a little salt over,
baste with butter and let the joint brown. Put the haunch on a hot dish, tie a ruffle
around the bone, make a rich gravy, and serve it with the meat, also some mint sauce,
both being placed in sauceboats.
Broiled Lambs' Kidneys, Maitre d'Hotel.
Plunge the kidneys into boiling water for an instant, split down the middle with-
out cutting them clear through, skin and run a fine skewer through each to keep
them flat. Season well with pepper and salt, warm a little butter and brush over
them. Lay them on a well-greased, hot gridiron, the cut side downwards ; when
that side is done, turn them over and cook the other side. Remove the skewers, lay
the kidneys, hollow side up, on a hot dish, put a little maitre d'hotel butter on each,
and serve.
Broiled Lambs' Kidneys with Colbert Sauce.
Split open eight or nine kidneys, skin them, place them on a dish and moisten
them well with sweet oil. Dust over with one tablespoonful of salt, one teaspoonful
of pepper and one-half teaspoonful of nutmeg. Take eight silver skewers, run each
skewer through the center of a kidney (which should be split partly open), roll them
in breadcrumbs and broil them over a moderate fire for about five minutes on either
side. Place them on a very hot dish on which has been previously poured one-half
pint of hot Colbert sauce, garnish with croutons of fried bread, and serve.
Deviled Lambs' Kidneys.
Skin and pare a dozen kidneys, without separating the parts, and run the skewers
through as for broiled lambs' kidneys with Colbert sauce. Broil them a little for one
LAMB. 175
minute on either side, then stir together in a dish one teaspoonful of mustard with
two tablespoonfuls of Parisian sauce, a little cayenne pepper, one teaspoonful of salt
and a little mignonette pepper. Roll the kidneys well in this and then in bread-
crumbs, and finish by broiling them once more for three or four minutes. Pour over
a gill of maitre d'hotel butter, and serve.
Fried Lambs' Kidneys with Bread Croutons.
Skin and trim the fat off the kidneys, cut each one into halves lengthwise, place
them in a fryingpan with one or two finely-chopped shallots and two ounces of but-
ter, sprinkle with salt and pepper and fry them. When the shallots are nicely
browned and the kidneys are cooked remove them from the fire and baste with a few
tablespoonfuls of melted glaze. Fry in hot fat half a dozen croutons of bread, and
when brown and crisp brush them over with a paste-brush dipped in melted glaze;
place the kidneys on a hot dish, sprinkle with chopped parsley, squeeze over them the
juice of a lemon, garnish with croutons of bread, and serve.
Stewed Lambs' Kidneys.
Pare, trim and skim a dozen kidneys, cut them into slices and cook for five min-
utes in a fryingpan with one ounce of clarified butter, one tablespoonful of salt and
one teaspoonful of pepper. Brown well and then add one-half pint of Spanish sauce
and four mushrooms cut into pieces. Warm without boiling, add the juice of half a
lemon and one teaspoonful of chopped parsley, and serve.
Boiled Leg of Lamb.
Sprinkle a leg of lamb with salt, place it in a bowl with enough soft water to
cover, add a few drops of vinegar or lemon juice, and let the lamb steep for an hour.
Then dry it, dredge with flour, wrap it in a piece of linen, put it in a saucepan with
a bunch of sweet herbs and water to cover, and boil it for an hour and a half, more
or less, according to the size of the joint. When cooked remove the cloth, place the
lamb on a hot dish, garnish with parsley and thin slices of lemon, and serve with a
sauceboatful of caper sauce.
Broiled Lambs' Liver.
Cut the liver into rather thin slices, and allow them to macerate in oil and
chopped parsley for half an hour. Drain the slices, sprinkle over salt and pepper,
roll them in grated breadcrumbs, lay them on a gridiron, and broil over a clear fire.
Put six ounces of butter into a saucepan to melt, and mix with it the juice of a
lemon, one tablespoonful of chopped parsley, and season with salt and pepper.
When the slices of liver are cooked, lay them on a hot dish, pour the butter over,
and serve.
176 LAMB.
Fried Lambs' Liver.
Wash thoroughly some lambs' liver, cut it into slices, and rub them well on both
sides with pepper, salt and flour. Place a large lump of fat in a fryingpan and
make it hot. Dip the fillets into beaten eggs, plunge them into the fat, and fry them.
Drain the slices of liver, dust a little salt over, and put them on a hot dish on which
has been laid a folded napkin, garnish with quarters of lemon, and serve.
Minced Lamb with Poached Eggs.
Take some cold roasted lamb, trim and chop it very fine, season with pepper,
salt and a little finely chopped mint. Make some gravy very hot in a saucepan,
thicken it with browned flour, stir in the seasoned meat, and let it get hot. Make
some triangles of buttered toast, lay a poached egg on each, pour the mince into a
flat dish, and garnish with the toast and poached eggs.
Pilau of Lamb.
Cut the meat of a leg of lamb into small pieces, and make a little broth with the
bones. Cut half a pound of streaky bacon in squares and fry in a stewpan with one
chopped onion ; put the pieces of lamb in with it, sprinkle a little salt over and fry
over a brisk fire for ten minutes. Cover the lamb with the broth that has been pre-
pared from the bones. Skin and chop two ripe tomatoes and after picking out the
seeds, put them in with the lamb, adding two green peppers, cut up a bunch of fine
herbs, a sprig or two of parsley and a pinch of saffron ; when the broth has boiled
for five minutes throw in some rice, put the lid on the stewpan, move it to the side of
the fire, and let the contents stew for twenty minutes or until the rice is quite tender.
When ready to serve turn the pilau out onto a hot dish.
Roasted Forequarter of Lamb.
Cover a forequarter of lamb with slices of bacon, and wrap it up in a sheet of
buttered paper. Roast in the oven, and when it is cooked enough, raise the shoulder
from the neck with a knife, fill the cavity with butter, and serve on a hot dish.
Roasted Hindquarter of Lamb.
Select a hindquarter of lamb, trim the bone, fix the lamb in a roastingpan and
roast it in a hot oven, basting often with butter; when nearly done sprinkle with
breadcrumbs, baste again to brown, and sprinkle salt over. V/hen the lamb is
cooked put it on a hot dish, surround with a rich gravy, and serve with mint sauce.
LAMB. 177
Roasted Hindquarter of Lamb with Celery.
Truss the joint, range it in a bakingpan and roast it in a hot oven. Clean and
trim three fresh heads of celery, cutting off the tops and the outside leaves, put them
for ten minutes in boiling water, then refresh them with cold water, and tie together
in bundles. Place them in a saucepan with a small quantity of sliced carrots, an
onion, a bunch of sweet herbs, three-quarters of a pint of chicken broth, half a pint
of water and one teacupful of clarified butter ; lay a sheet of paper over the whole,
put the lid on the saucepan, and keep the contents cooking gently by the side of the
fire. When the lamb is cooked, remove and place it on a hot dish, put the celery
around, and serve with a sauceboat of half glaze.
Roasted Saddle of Lamb.
The saddle of lamb is simply the two loins cut off before the carcass is split
open down the back ; it is best when roasted before an open fire, but it may be
cooked in a very hot oven. If medium size it will cook in an hour and a half, but if
large it will require two hours. It should first be exposed to intense heat until
browned, then seasoned with salt and pepper, and every fifteen minutes should be
basted with the drippings, which fall from it ; about a half hour before the loin is
done make a sauce for it as follows : Peel two large cucumbers, cut them in slices,
and place them in salted cold water. Peel and slice one medium-sized onion, place
it in a saucepan with the cucumbers, with enough gravy to cover, and let them stew
for fifteen minutes ; season highly with salt and pepper and a tablespoonful of lemon-
juice or vinegar. When the lamb is cooked dish it on a hot dish, garnish with
cucumbers, and serve the sauce in a gravy-boat with it.
Roasted Saddle and Leg of Lamb.
Wash, salt and flour the meat and put it in a bakingpan in a hot oven to roast,
basting often until done. Place it on a hot dish and serve it with mint sauce.
Braised Shoulder of Lamb.
Remove the bone from a shoulder of lamb and lard it with lightly-seasoned
strips of bacon fat in the thick part of the shoulder ; roll the joint to a good shape,
tie it round, put it into a braisingpan with a lump of butter and braise gently over a
moderate fire till browned all over. Put in about eight small onions, a bundle of
chopped parsley and one quart of broth, place the saucepan by the side of the fire and
allow the contents to simmer until the onions are tender. Put the meat onto a hot
dish, cut off the string and garnish with the onions. Boil the cooking liquor until it
is reduced to a thick gravy, then pour it over the lamb, and serve.
178 LAMB.
Braised Shoulder of Lamb, African Style.
Season a shoulder of lamb with one pinch each of salt and pepper and tie it up.
Put it in a saucepan with one sliced onion and carrot and brown for six minutes.
Moisten with one pint of broth and Spanish sauce and cook for forty-five minutes.
Skim all the fat from the gravy, remove the meat to a hot dish and untie it. Deco-
rate the dish with three stuffed egg-plants and half a pint of cooked okra gumbos.
Pour the gravy over the shoulder of lamb, and serve.
Braised Shoulder of Lamb, Flemish Style.
The same as for braised shoulder of lamb, African style, serving for garnishing
half a oint of cooked carrots, turnips and red cabbage arranged around the dish.
Braised Shoulder of Lamb, Rouennese Style.
Braise a shoulder of lamb, cut three medium-sized turnips the shape of a large
clove of garlic, put them in a stewpan with one ounce of butter and one teaspoonful
of powdered loaf-sugar on top. Put them in the oven and leave until they become thor-
oughly brown, moving the pan often to prevent burning. Put the gravy from the
meat over the turnips, dish up the shoulder, and serve.
Roasted Shoulder of Lamb and Mint Sauce.
Wash a shoulder of lamb, dredge both sides with salt and flour, fix it on a ba-
kingpan, with a little hot water dripping and salt, and then roast in a brick oven, bast-
ing occasionally until done. Place it on a hot dish, and serve with mint sauce.
Lamb Stewed with Tomatoes.
Divide a saddle of lamb into moderate-sized quarters, remove part of the bones,
and put the meat into a flat stewpan with a clove of unpeeled garlic, one onion and a
lump of butter; season well and toss over the fire until nicely browned. Cut four to-
matoes in halves, take out the seeds and cut them into quarters. Place a little oil in
a fryingpan, when hot put the tomatoes in and fry over a sharp fire until the moisture
is reduced, then turn them in with the lamb, stir over the fire for ten minutes, take
the onion and garlic out, place the lamb and tomatoes on a hot dish, and serve.
Baked Lambs' Sweetbreads.
Clean the sweetbreads, washing them in plenty of water, then steep them in wa-
ter for an hour or more. Drain the sweetbreads and blanch them in boiling water un-
til firm, then boil them slowly for fifteen to twenty minutes; drain and wipe the sweet-
breads on a cloth; roll them in the beaten yolks of eggs, and then put in plenty of
LAMB. 179
grated breadcrumbs, and place them in a quick oven until nicely browned. Boil one
wineglassful of sherry wine with one-half pint of gravy, arrange the sweetbreads in a
group on a hot dish, pour the gravy over them, and serve at once.
Fricassee of Lambs' Sweetbreads.
Blanch three lambs' sweetbreads, parboil them in broth or stock, and cut into
slices. Roll them well in flour and if the slices are too thick cut them in halves. Put
them into a fryingpan with butter and a few bearded oysters and fry to a yellow
color. Then drain off the butter, pour in two breakfast cupfuls of rich gravy, add a
few asparagus points, two or three finely chopped chives or shallots, season with pep-
per, salt and grated nutmeg. Pour in one wineglassful of white wine, and simmer for
ten minutes or so. Beat the yolks of three eggs in a basin, add a little of the broth
and then stir it in with the remainder, replace the pan at the side of the fire and stir,
without boiling, until the gravy is moderately thick. Serve on a hot dish with slices
of lemon for a garnish.
Lambs' Sweetbreads in Cases.
Blanch, pare and clean half a dozen lambs' sweetbreads. Lay them aside to cool,
then lard them with either fresh fat pork or truffles. Place them in a well buttered
stewpan, adding one gill of Madeira wine and one gill of chicken broth. Cover
with a buttered paper, and let them cook to a golden color in the oven for ten min-
utes, then place them on a dish. Put one-half gill of cooked fine herbs, and one gill
of reduced Spanish sauce into the pan, allowing it to cook for five minutes. Take
six small buttered paper cases, pour a little of the gravy at the bottom of each, fill in
with sweetbreads, and place them on a bakingdish; keep them in an open oven for
five minutes, then serve on a folded napkin.
Lambs' Sweetbreads in Shells.
Boil sixteen lambs' sweetbreads, using care not to overdo them; when cold cut
them into dice, and mix with them one-third of their quantity of cooked mushrooms,
keeping them covered. Pour a little bechamel sauce into a saucepan allow it to
reduce, gradually mixing it with the cooking stock of the lambs' sweetbreads, so as
to get half a brown sauce. When it thickens and coats the spoon, put the mushrooms
and sweetbreads in with it and remove it from the fire at once. Secure some large
table-shells, fill them with the mixture, smoothing it on the top, sprinkle grated
breadcrumb over, pour one tablespoonful of warmed butter into each, and bake until
browned in a quick oven. Arrange the shells on a fancy paper over a dish, and serve,
Stewed Lambs' Sweetbreads.
Blanch the sweetbreads and steep them in cold water for half an hour, then place
them in a stewpan with some button onions, boiled asparagus tops, and a small piece
i8o LAMB.
of mace ; season with salt and pepper to taste. Beat the yolks of two eggs, together
with one-half teacupful of cream and one tablespoonful of finely-chopped parsley.
Knead one ounce of flour, put it in with the sweetbreads, and let them simmer at the
side of the fire for half an hour. Stir in the eggs, cream and parsley with the sweet-
breads, grate in a small quantity of nutmeg, and stir the sauce at the side of the fire
for a few minutes, but do not let it boil again or the eggs will curdle. When ready
place the sweetbreads on a hot dish, pour the sauce over, and serve.
Timbale of Lambs' Sweetbreads.
Take a timbale mould, line it with short paste, having previously buttered it,
and put a layer of forcemeat mixed with chives, and a little finely-chopped lean raw
ham inside. Blanch a score of lambs' sweetbreads, and fry them over a brisk fire in
bacon fat until well browned ; sprinkle over salt and pepper, take them off the fire,
and let them cool. Put them in layers in the timbale mould, alternating each layer
with the forcemeat. Put a layer of forcemeat on the top, cover the mould with a
round of paste, fixing it carefully to the sides, place it in a moderate oven, and bake
for about one hour. When cooked turn the timbale out of the mould, make a hole
in the top, pour in a little thickened gravy, put back the round that has been removed,
garnish with mushrooms and parsley, and serve at once.
Lambs' Sweetbreads with Villeroy Sauce.
Select the desired quantity of sweetbreads, blanch and place them in a stewpan,
adding broth to half their height, boil till tender and the gravy is reduced. Put the
sweetbreads between two plates, and leave till cold. Cut each sweetbread in two,
dip them in villeroy sauce, and place them on a baking sheet. When the sauce has
cooled on them, take them from the baking sheet with the aid of a knife, roll them
in breadcrumbs again, and fry in boiling fat ; when nicely browned all over, drain,
arrange them on a hot dish, and serve.
Boiled Lambs' Tongues.
Put half a dozen or so of lambs' tongues into a saucepan with enough cold water
to cover them, and add the juice of half a lemon. Set the saucepan on the fire and
boil the tongues until tender, place them on a dish when drained, and serve either hot
or cold; if the latter, tartar sauce should accompany them.
Glazed Lambs' Tongues.
Put two or three glazed lambs' tongues of a good pink color into a saucepan of
water and boil for two hours, take them out, skin, and cut them lengthwise into
halves. Place them in a pan with a little meat glaze over, cover well, and brown in
LAMB. 181
the oven. Put them on a dish and serve, with spinach and boiled artichokes for a
garnish.
Pickled Lambs' Tongues.
Place six or eight lambs' tongues in a saucepan with enough salted water to
cover, add the juice of half a lemon, and boil until they are tender, which should take
about two hours. Remove them, place them in a jar, pour sufficient hot spiced
vinegar to cover, and allow them to remain for several days, when they will be ready
for use.
Stewed Lambs' Tongues.
Place six lambs' tongues in a saucepan of water and boil for an hour and a half;
take them out, plunge into cold water, take out again and skin. Place a little more
than three tablespoonfuls of butter in a saucepan, with an onion cut in slices, two
slices of carrot and three of turnip, and cook gently for a quarter of an hour.
Sprinkle in three tablegpoonfuls of flour, and stir well until it is brown, pour in a quart
of stock, boil it up, put in the tongue, and sprinkle over a tablespoonful of salt and a
little pepper, and add a bunch of sweet herbs. Place the saucepan at the side of the
fire, and let it simmer for two hours. When they are done, put the tongues in the
center of the dish, garnish with a vegetable, strain the gravy over, and serve.
Mutton.
Sheep's Brains, Poulette.
Cleanse the brains by placing them in boiling water, wash them well in cold
water and let them drain. Prepare in a stewpan a quantity of sauce with a little stock
thickened with the white of an egg, a little butter, cream and flour, also two or three
small onions finely minced, boiled and mashed, a few small mushrooms, a squeeze of
lemon juice and pepper and salt to taste. Pour one teaspoonful of lemon juice over
each brain, sprinkle a little marjoram and sage over them, then put the brains into
the sauce, and allow them to simmer gently for twenty minutes. Remove them
when done, and place them on a dish. Boil up the sauce, pour it over, and serve.
Sheep's Brains with Remoulade Sauce.
Steep four or five sheep's brains in cold water, remove the skin, and place them
in fresh cold water for an hour. Put some vegetables cut in pieces into a saucepan
of cold water for an hour, and add a sprig of parsley, one wineglassful of Madeira or
white wine and a little salt. Boil for a few minutes, then put in the brains, and boil
again for ten minutes ; take out the brains, drain them, put them on a dish, and mask
with hot remoulade sauce.
Baked Breast of Mutton.
Sew up a breast of mutton in a very thin cloth, put it into a stewpan, pour over
sufficient water to nearly cover it, and let it stew very slowly, allowing ten minutes
to each pound, counting from the time the water begins to simmer. Remove it from
the saucepan, take off the cloth, put it in a baking-dish, rub it over with warm drip-
ping or butter, sprinkle on some flour, and bake for half an hour, basting often with
its own broth. Five minutes before removing it from the oven, strew fine dry bread-
crumbs thickly over it, add small pieces of butter here and there, and let it brown.
Put it on a hot dish, garnish with slices of beet root, and serve.
Braised Breast of Mutton.
Partly boil it the day before needed so as to more easily free it of its superfluous
fat, cut it into pieces, put them into a saucepan, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and lay
over them three onions cut in slices. Place the pan over a slow fire, and let the meat
182
MUTTON. 183
cook slowly for about three hours, when it should be done ; its own juices and fat
will be quite sufficient moisture. Place the meat on a dish, and serve.
Boiled Breast of Mutton with Caper Sauce.
Cut off the fat from a breast of mutton, and bone the joint. Take three table-
spoonfuls of sweet herbs and a couple of sprigs of parsley, chop fine, mix them with
four tablespoonfuls of breadcrumbs, season with salt and pepper to taste. Put a
layer of this mixture over the boned meat, and tie around with string. Put it in a
saucepan of water and boil very slowly over a moderate fire for two hours or until the
meat is done. Put it on a dish, remove the string, pour over a little caper sauce and
serve with more of the sauce in a sauceboat.
Stewed Breast of Mutton.
Bone and score a breast of mutton, season it well with cayenne, black pepper
and salt, place in a saucepan with a good supply of gravy that has had the fat
skimmed off ; boil until tender and place on a dish. Slice a few gherkins and add
them with one dessertspoonful of mushroom catsup to the gravy ; boil up again and
pour the gravy over when ready.
Braised Mutton Chops.
Cut the chops off a rack of mutton without flattening them, remove a part of
the flat bone at the end, also a part of their fat. Put them in a stewpan with the
pieces cut off them, add three sliced onions, a bunch of parsley and a small quantity
of carrots; season with spice and salt, add four or five tablespoonfuls of broth to
braise them. When they are well done remove and place on a strainer to drain and
cool. Pass the liquor through a fine sieve and reduce it to a glaze, place the chops
in this and dish in a circle, with the onion sauce poured in the center.
Mutton Chops Breaded and Sauted.
Flatten eight thick mutton chops, pare nicely and season with one tablespoonful
of salt and one teaspoonful of pepper. Dip them in beaten egg and roll in sifted
breadcrumbs, place in a sautepan with an ounce of clarified butter. Cook for four
minutes on each side, and serve with one-half pint of any sauce or garnishing required.
Broiled Mutton Chops.
Cut the chops from the loin or from the rack and remove some of the fat if
necessary. Sprinkle slightly with pepper, put them on a gridiron over a good clear
fire, turning two or three times, and cook evenly. When done put them on a hot
1 84 MUTTON.
dish, sprinkle lightly with salt, put a small lump of butter on each and serve very
hot. Garnish with sliced okras and stuffed egg plants.
Broiled Mutton Chops, Brittany Style.
Pare six mutton chops, season with one tablespoonful of salt and pepper and pour
a few drops of oil over each. Broil four minutes on each side, place on a dish and
serve with one-half pint of puree of white beans mixed with two tablespoonfuls of hot
meat glaze.
Broiled Mutton Chops, Provincial Style.
Flatten and pare nicely six mutton chops and season them with a little salt and
pepper ; oil slightly with sweet oil and then either boil or cook them in a stewpan
for two minutes, on one side only, and lay them aside to get cold. Spread over
them some provincial garnishing to about one-fourth inch in thickness and sprinkle
with breadcrumbs mixed with a little grated Parmesan cheese. Place the chops
carefully in a well-buttered pan, pour over them a little clarified butter and place in a
very hot oven for five minutes or until of a good color. Serve with one-half pint of
hot veloute sauce in a sauceboat.
Broiled Mutton Chops, Soyer.
Take five pounds of saddle of mutton, cut and saw it crosswise into six pieces,
flatten, pare, and trim them, season with one tablespoonful of salt and one teaspoonful
of pepper. Broil them for six minutes on each side, then place them on a hot dish,
and serve with a garnishing of a pint of fried potatoes placed around the dish,
Fried Mutton Chops.
Prepare the same as for broiled mutton chops, put them in a stewpan and cook ;
when done the hot fat must be poured away and a few tablespoonfuls of good stock,
or water slightly warmed, and one tablespoonful of catsup or other flavoring added.
Boil this stock up after removing the chops, and either pour it over them or serve
separately.
Fried Mutton Chops, Soubise Sauce.
Peel two large Spanish onions, two carrots and two small turnips, and cut the
carrots and turnips into small balls with a vegetable cutter. Boil them separately in
salted water until tender. Trim off the fat from eight mutton chops, dip them in
well-beaten egg and then in breadcrumbs that have been seasoned with salt and
pepper ; put a lump of clarified fat in a fryingpan, place it over the fire till blue
smoke arises, put in the chops and fry them brown on both sides. Drain the boiled
vegetables, chop the onions, put them in a saucepan, dredge them with flour and a
little salt and pepper, pour in gradually one breakfast cupful of milk, stir it over the
MUTTON. 185
fire until it boils and thickens, then add two ounces of butter. Drain the cutlets and
arrange in a circle on a hot dish, put the carrots and turnips in the center, pour the
onion sauce round, and serve while very hot.
Mutton Chops, Maintenon Style.
Cut off some mutton chops of equal thickness, and butter them well. Chop some
parsley, sweet herbs, and shallots very fine, mix well together and cover the chops
with this. Put the chops in a pan and fry until three parts done, take them out,
brush over with egg, sprinkle over breadcrumbs, and some more herbs if there
is not sufficient adhering to them. Wrap each chop in buttered or oiled paper, put
them in a pan and broil until quite done. Whole capers, with a little of their vinegar
seasoned with cayenne, may be served with them, or some of the liquor from the
chops, skimmed, and an equal quantity of veal gravy added and made hot, and then
seasoned with a little lemon juice or vinegar, may be served in a sauceboat.
Mutton Cromeskies.
Trim off the skin and fat from some cold mutton and mince the lean finely;
place one ounce of butter in a stewpan with one tablespoonful of flour, stir over the
fire until well mixed, then pour in gradually a good one-half breakfast cupful of nicely
flavored stock. Stir it until boiling, then put in the mince with a moderate quantity
each of chopped thyme and parsley, salt and pepper to taste, and sprinkle on a little
grated nutmeg. Let it heat slowly at the side of the fire, then stir in the beaten yolk
of an egg. Cut some slices of mutton fat about two and one-half inches long and
two inches wide, place a small bit of the mince on each and roll them up tightly,
tying them round with fine twine. In the course of an hour's time dip each of the
cromeskies in good frying batter, place them in a stewpan with plenty of boiling fat
and fry until lightly browned. Drain the cromeskies as free from fat as possible, pile
them on a hot dish over which has been spread a folded napkin, garnish with a border
of fried parsley, and serve.
Curried Mutton.'
Chop a large onion and fry it in a pan with a tablespoonful of butter. Mix one
tablespoonful each of curry powder and flour in a basin, add a teaspoonful of salt,
and when thoroughly mixed add to the onion in the pan and pour in gradually a pint
of water or broth. Chop two pounds of lean mutton into small pieces, fry in a little
butter until they are a light brown, add to the curry and simmer till tender. Place
the meat on a dish with a border of rice around it, and serve hot.
Curried Mutton Forcemeat Balls.
Place two pounds of mutton cut from the leg into a mortar and pound it to a
pulp, then mix in a tablespoonful each of chopped sweet herbs, salt and pepper, two
i86 MUTTON.
tablespoonfuls of fine breadcrumbs, a well beaten egg and sufficient gravy made
from the bones and trimmings of the mutton to form the whole into a mass.
Shape it into balls about the size of a large walnut and roll them well in breadcrumbs.
Put four ounces of fat into a fryingpan, make it hot, add one tablespoonful of ground
onions, one-fourth tablespoonful each of ground turmeric and chillies, one-half tea-
spoonful each of ground ginger and peppercorns and one-fourth teaspoonful of ground
garlic. Fry these until they color, sprinkling over about one tablespoonful of water.
Put in the forcemeat balls, salt to taste and fry until they are brown; pour in one
breakfast cupful of mutton broth, cover the pan and simmer over a slow fire for about
two hours. Turn the curry on a dish, and serve with a border of boiled rice.
Braised Mutton Cutlets.
Take about three pounds of cutlets, trim and put them into a pan to braise.
When done, remove, place them on a board with a weight on top to keep them in
shape while they are getting cold. Trim them again, mask on one side with six
ounces of quenelle forcemeat, and then dip them into a mixture of finely-minced
tongues and truffles. Place them in a saucepan with three gills of brown sauce,
cover with buttered paper and cook very slowly for fifteen minutes. Place a border
of mashed potatoes on a dish, lay the cutlets on it, garnish the center with strips of
tongue and gherkin mixed with the white of an egg, pour the sauce around, and serve.
Broiled Mutton Cutlets.
Season some cutlets, first dip them into melted butter, then roll them in bread-
crumbs. Broil them over the fire for about eight minutes, and place them on a dish
around a heap of potato balls piled up in the center.
Broiled Mutton Cutlets with Carrots, Maitre d' Hotel.
Select some rather thick cutlets from a rack of mutton, trim to a nice shape,
removing nearly all the fat. Peel some new carrots and cut them into, halves, unless
they are very small ; boil them in salted water until tender, drain and put them into
a stewpan with some finely-minced parsley and a large piece of butter ; sprinkle
lightly with pepper, and a small quantity of powdered sugar, and squeeze in the
juice of half a lemon ; toss them over the fire until nicely glazed, then move to one
side and keep them warm. Broil the cutlets over a clear fire, turning them when
done on one side. When the cutlets are finished dredge them over with salt, arrange
them in a circle on a hot dish, each cutlet overlapping the other, place the carrots
in the center, and serve.
Broiled Mutton Cutlets with Macedoine of Vegetables.
Take twelve cutlets of equal size, trim off some of the fat, sprinkle them slightly
with salt and pepper and dip them into warm butter. Broil them over a moderate
MUTTON. 187
fire, turning frequently, and when they are done put some paper frills on the bones;
prepare a macedoine of vegetables of different kinds and shades, thicken with
bechamel sauce and reduce with a little glaze, pile it in the center of a large dish
and arrange the cutlets around. Serve with a boatful of half-glaze separately.
Broiled Mutton Cutlets with Mushroom Sauce.
Select the cutlets from the best end of a neck of mutton, the rack, saw the bones
off short, trim them in a nice shape, remove the gristle and fat, and beat them flat
with a cutlet bat. Take some finely chopped parsley, thyme and marjoram, add some
grated breadcrumbs, mix with the beaten yolk of an egg and season with salt and
pepper and a little grated nutmeg. Cover the cutlets with the mixture and wrap each
one separately in a sheet of buttered paper, trim off the stalks from one-half pint of
mushrooms, wash and drain them, place in a dish with one-half pint of nicely flavored
gravy and boil until tender; put one ounce of butter and one tablespoonful of flour
into a saucepan, stir it over the fire until brown, then strain in the gravy from the
mushrooms, stirring till it boils. Broil the cutlets on a gridiron over a clear fire,
turning when done on one side. When done remove the paper and arrange the cut-
lets in a circle on a hot dish, put the mushrooms in the center, pour the sauce around
them, and serve.
Broiled Mutton Cutlets with String Beans.
Take the best end of a neck of mutton and cut it into slices one-third of an inch
thick; cut off most of the fat, trim to a nice shape and beat lightly with a cutlet bat,
string a sufficient quantity of string beans, put them whole into a saucepan with
plenty of boiling water, salt and boil until tender. When done drain off the water,
put in a large piece of butter, a moderate quantity of finely minced parsley, the juice
of half a lemon, a little pepper, and let them remain at the side of the fire until the
cutlets are ready. Broil the cutlets on a gridiron over a clear brisk fire, turning
them when done on one side. Pile the beans on the center of a hot dish and arrange
the cutlets around them.
Broiled Mutton Cutlets with Tomato Sauce.
Trim the cutlets to a nice shape and roll them in butter that has been slightly
warmed, sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper on both sides, place them on a gridiron
and broil over a clear fire, turning them when done on one side. When broiled ar-
range them in a circle on a hot dish, pour some thick tomato sauce in the center, and
serve.
Mutton Cutlets, Financiere Style.
Trim some cutlets and lard them with strips of bacon. Line a stewpan with the
trimmings of bacon and a few slices of vegetables, put in the cutlets together with a
i88 MUTTON.
bunch of sweet herbs, cover them with two or three slices of bacon and moisten with
a small quantity of stock. Stand them over a moderate fire, put hot ashes on the lid
of the stewpan and braise them slowly. Put two ounces of chopped raw ham into a
saucepan with some trimmings of truffles and mushrooms, a few peppercorns and a
bunch of sweet herbs. Pour in one-half pint of white wine and one-half pint of stock
and reduce by boiling to half its original quantity. Stir one ounce of butter and one
tablespoonful of flour in a saucepan over the fire until browned and then mix in by
degrees one teacupful of stock and stir it until boiling and thickened. Strain the
reduced liquor through a fine hair sieve, mix with it the thickened stock and boil up
again. When cooked, drain the cutlets and arrange on a hot dish. Pour the sauce
over, and serve while very hot.
Fried Mutton Cutlets, Soubise Style.
Saw off the upper rib-bone from a rack of mutton, leaving the cutlet bones about
three inches long. Saw off the spine bone, cut off the cutlets, trim them and with a
knife remove the meat from the end of the bone by scraping it, leaving about one-
half inch of bone showing. Place the cutlets in a saucepan, season with salt and
pepper, put in one ounce of butter and fry to a good brown color on each side.
Place the cutlets in a circle on a dish, pour some Soubise sauce in the center, and
serve.
Mutton Cutlets, Indian Style.
Procure the chops cut from the rack of mutton, trim off most of the fat, scrape the
bones as clean as possible, and sprinkle over both sides a little salt and pepper.
Mash smoothly some cold boiled potatoes, moisten them very slightly with milk,
place a layer of them over both sides of the cutlet, smoothing them carefully with
the flat part of the blade of a knife, completely covering the meat, and brush over
with a paste-brush dipped in the beaten yolk of an egg. Put a fair-sized lump of
butter into a stewpan on the fire, and when blue smoke rises put in the cutlets and
fry them till delicately browned on both sides. Drain them as they are cooked on a
sheet of paper, arrange them in a circle leaning against a fried bread crouton on a
hot dish over which has been laid a folded napkin, put a group of fried parsley in the
center, and serve.
Mutton Cutlets, Jardiniere.
Peel three or four young turnips and carrots, anJ cut them into small balls with
a vegetable cutter ; boil these as well as a few button mushrooms, French beans and
green peas separately in stock. Put one ounce of butter into a stewpan with one
good tablespoonful of flour, and stir it over the fire until browned, then pour in grad-
ually one pint of stock and continue stirring until boiling. Drain the vegetables
when three parts cooked, put them into the thickened stock, and simmer gently until
quite tender. Boil a firm white head of cauliflower in clear water, with a small lump
MUTTON. 189
of salt in it, trim the cutlets neatly, beat them slightly with a cutlet bat, and season
with salt and pepper. Put two ounces of butter into a fryingpan on the fire, and
when hot lay on the cutlets and fry them until nicely browned, turning when done on
one side. When cooked, drain the cutlets and place them in a circle on a hot dish,
place the cauliflower in the center, garnish around with the vegetables, and serve.
Mutton Cutlets, Maitre d'Hotel.
Prepare the cutlets from a rack of mutton by trimming them neatly, cutting the
bones off fairly short and removing most of the fat ; then beat them with a cutlet
bat, season on both sides with salt and pepper, and keep them in a cool place for an
hour or two. Work together with the blade of a knife, one-half tablespoonful of
finely chopped parsley, one and one-half ounces of butter and a squeeze of lemon
juice. Melt a lump of butter in a fryingpan, put in the cutlets and fry them until
well browned on both sides. When cooked, place the cutlets on a hot dish, put
small pieces of the parsley butter over each, garnish with fried parsley, and serve very
hot.
Mutton Cutlets, Marshal Style.
Chop three ounces of raw veal fine and pound it in a mortar together with
one dessertspoonful of chopped parsley; add to it half a teaspoonful of pepper and
salt and one saltspoonful of nutmeg, mix, and then stir in one tablespoonful of cream.
Select eight mutton cutlets, trim them neatly leaving on a portion of the fat; beat
two eggs, dip them in, and roll them in a mixture of three tablespoonfuls of bread-
crumbs and rather more than one-half saltspoonful each of salt and pepper. Put
some clarified fat in a fryingpan, and when quite hot fry the cutlets in it for eight
minutes, turning them once. When fried remove them from the pan, divide the veal
mixture in the mortar into eight equal quantities, and spread one on each cutlet;
sprinkle some mushrooms chopped fine over the veal mixture, and bake in a fairly
hot oven for ten minutes. Serve on a hot dish garnished with fried parsley.
Mutton Cutlets, Rachel Style.
Chop three or four slices of fat bacon, fry them for two or three minutes, then
put into the pan one-half pound of chopped calf's liver and fry until the liver is
cooked. Season to taste, pound all to a smooth paste in a mortar, then pass it
through a fine wire sieve. Trim neatly some mutton cutlets that have been cut off
the rack, and fry them. When cooked drain the cutlets as free from fat as possible,
place them between two plates with a weight on the top, and leave them until cold.
When ready trim the cutlets again, and spread a layer of the pounded mixture on
one side of each of them. Wrap them in a piece of caul, and put them in the oven
until hot. Brush them over with a paste brush dipped in melted glaze, arrange in a
i 9 o MUTTON.
circle on a hot dish with a border of mashed potatoes round them, and serve very
hot, with a sauceboat of half glaze.
Mutton Cutlets, Venetian Style.
Select the cutlets from a rack of mutton, trim them neatly, scraping clean about
one inch of the top of each bone, and braise them. When cooked place them
between two plates till 'cold; prepare a sufficient quantity of quenelle forcemeat to
spread over one side of each cutlet, and mix with it a small quantity of chopped
truffles and tongue. Trim the cutlets again, lay in a stewpan, and spread the force-
meat over them. Pour about one and one-half breakfast cupfuls of brown sauce
around, cover them with a sheet of buttered paper, and cook slowly over a slow fire
for fifteen minutes. Cut some cooked tongue and gherkins into strips, arrange the
cutlets in a circle around the dish, put the strips of tongue and gherkin in the center,
pour the sauce around, and serve.
Deviled Mutton.
Cut some cold mutton into thick slices trimming off most of the fat, gash it
across in several places with a sharp knife; mix a coffeespoonful of cayenne pepper
with one tablespoonful of black pepper and rub the mixture well over the slices of
mutton; lay them on a gridiron and broil over a clear fire, turning when done on one
side. Put one-half teacupful of roast-meat gravy into a small saucepan with an equal
quantity of sherry wine, one-half tablespoonful each of Worcestershire and anchovy
sauce, or the strained juice of half a lemon and a small quantity of finely-shredded
lemon peel. Place the sauce over the fire until it boils, arrange the pieces of broiled
meat on a hot dish, pour the sauce over, garnish with fried parsley, and serve. It will
be found an improvement if the gravy can be slightly flavored with onion.
Fried Fillets of Mutton.
Cut two pounds of cutlets from the middle of a loin of mutton, remove the fat
and skin and cut into slices about one-half inch thick; flatten them with a cutlet bat
and dip them into beaten egg, and then into sifted breadcrumbs. Sprinkle lightly
with pepper and salt and let them remain for about one hour. Put some butter in a
fryingpan, and when it is hot put in the fillets and fry on both sides until they are
quite done and of a nice brown color. Place them on a dish, garnish with asparagus,
seakale or cauliflower, and serve.
Fillets of Mutton, Minute Style.
Put some good strong stock into a saucepan, reduce it quickly to a glaze, add a
slice of fat bacon and as many fillets of mutton as required. Cover over with a piece
of well-buttered paper and simmer gently over a slow fire for ten or twelve minutes,
MUTTON. 191
when they will be done and well glazed, but care must be taken to prevent' the bacon
from burning. Place the meat on a dish, add a little stock to the liquor in the pan to
heat, pour it over the fillets, and serve hot.
Roasted Fillet of Mutton.
Cut off the chump end of a loin of mutton, season with salt and pepper, cover
with paper, and put it in front of a clear fire to roast, let it remain for two hours,
taking care that it does not brown in the slightest, and glaze it, put some well drained
boiled string beans, in the gravy, warm them up, turn them out on a dish, place the
meat on the top, and serve.
Roasted Fore Quarter of Mutton.
Select a young fore quarter of mutton, wrap it up in sheets of well buttered
paper, and put it on the spit in front of a clear fire to roast; when done place it on a
dish over a puree of white beans, and serve very hot.
Fricasseed Mutton.
Cut two pounds of the breast of mutton into large squares, sprinkle over with
flour and salt, put them into a fryingpan, with a little fat or butter, and fry until
brown. Place them in a saucepan, add an onion cut in slices, cover with water, and
cook slowly until the bones can be removed easily. Strain the liquor and skim off the
fat, put it back in the saucepan, and when it boils, put in the boned meat, and season
with salt and pepper to taste, add one pint of green peas, cook slowly for fifteen min-
utes or long enough to cook the peas, turn on a dish, and serve. Macaroni cut in
half-inch pieces, or the tops of asparagus may be used instead of the peas.
Fricasseed Mutton with Egg-Plant.
Cut the required quantity of mutton into small pieces, place in a stewpan, and
sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper; shake the pan over the fire until it makes a
slight hissing noise; add one-fourth pound of butter and fry until the meat is nicely
browned. Trim and slice four egg-plants, rub them with salt and leave them for
a short time to extract the bitter taste; take the pieces of meat out of the fryingpan,
keep them hot, drain the egg-plant and fry it in the remaining fat till well browned.
Place the pieces of meat on a hot dish, put the fried slices of egg-plant in a circle
around, and serve while very hot.
Haggis.
Clean a sheep's paunch or stomach, washing it thoroughly in several waters.
Soak it in salted water and let it remain for several hours. Turn it inside out and
scald it in a basin of boiling water. Scrape it well, taking care not to cut it or make
I 9 2 MUTTON.
any thin sfices in it, as they might burst in cooking, and place it in cold water until
wanted for use. Clean a sheep's pluck, and let the blood ooze out of the liver and
heart by pricking them all over with a large needle. Put the liver and lights into a
saucepan of water, and boil for fifteen minutes, change the water and boil for fifty
minutes longer, add the balance of the pluck, and boil for another half-hour, making
about an hour and a half in all. Remove any part of the skin that may be discolored,
take out the liver, cut it in halves, grate one-half of it, and mince the other half with
the remainder of the pluck. Mince one pound of beef suet and two onions and mix
them in with one tablespoonful of salt, one breakfast cupful of well dried oatmeal,
one-half tablespoonful of pepper, a little grated nutmeg and some cayenne, also a
little lemon juice and one breakfast cupful of gravy. When they are thoroughly
incorporated put the mixture into the paunch, sew it up, leave room for swelling
in cooking, plunge it into a saucepan of boiling water, boil up, place it at the side of
the fire and let it simmer gently for about three hours, pricking it a little when first
cooking to let the air escape and thus preventing its bursting. As soon as it
is taken out of the saucepan it must be placed on a dish and served. Sufficient gravy
will be found inside as soon as it is cut without adding any more to it. A little beef
may also be used in the mixture, though it is not considered an improvement. If a
lamb's paunch is used, as is sometimes the case, great care must be taken to see that
all the thin places are well sewed up. A calf's paunch may also be used, but the
sheep's is best
Imitation Haggis.
(i). Mix mashed potatoes with an equal quantity of cold cooked beef, cut
up small, place this in a baking dish with a little butter on the top, sprinkle over
pepper and salt and bake in a brisk oven until done.
(2). Mince any beef or mutton, being sure to have plenty of fat, and then
mix with it half the quantity of coarse oatmeal well browned before a clear fire; add
a few minced onions and a small quantity of pepper and salt, put the mixture into a
pie dish, place it in the oven, bake half an hour, and serve.
Mutton Haricot.
Remove the fat from the chops of a loin of mutton, put them into a fryingpan
with two onions cut in slices, and fry until the meat is a light brown, put a little flour
into a breakfast cupful of gravy to thicken it, pour it over the meat and cook slowly
for about forty-five minutes. In the meantime put two carrots, two turnips, and a small
head of celery into a saucepan of water and partly boil them; cut the vegetables in
slices, add them to the pan with the meat and stew gently for twenty minutes longer;
add two tablespoonfuls of mushroom catsup and one wineglassful of sherry wine, boil
up quickly, pour it on to a dish, and serve.
MUTTON. 193
Hashed Mutton. 4
Chop an onion and put it into a stewpan with a lump of butter and fry till nicely
browned, then mix in a heaped tablespoonful of flour and stir in about one-half pint
of clear stock, a tablespoonful. of vinegar, salt and pepper to taste, and a small quan-
tity of mixed spices. Stir the sauce over the fire until boiling, then strain it through
a gravy strainer and leave until cold. Cut some cold mutton into thin slices, trim off
the skin, and most of the fat; put them into a stewpan with a few slices of pickled
gherkins, pour in the sauce and heat gradually over a slow fire. When ready turn
the hash on to a hot dish, garnish it with sippets of toast or croutons of bread fried a
golden brown in butter, and serve with a dish of mashed potatoes.
Hashed Mutton and Fried Eggs.
Cut some cold mutton into nicely-shaped pieces, removing the fat and brown skin ;
put them in a stewpan with some well-seasoned gravy and warm. When very hot
stir some canned or freshly-peeled tomatoes in with them, place the hash on a hot dish,
garnish around with fried eggs and small croutons of bread that have been fried in
butter, and serve.
Hashed Mutton, Zingara Style.
Chop up two onions and fry them in a saucepan with an ounce of butter for
three minutes ; add one and one-half pounds of hashed mutton, and one-fourth the
quantity of hashed cooked potatoes. Season with salt and pepper to taste, adding
a little nutmeg if desired ; put in also two raw tomatoes cut up, one tablespoonful of
chopped parsley and a crushed clove of garlic ; also a gill each of Spanish sauce and
broth. Mix all together and cook for twenty minutes, then serve with a little chopped
parsley sprinkled over the whole.
Roasted Haunch of Mutton.
Select a haunch of mutton that has been hanging for about two weeks, remove
all the skin that covers the fat, take out the shank 
