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1 

JJIlltAR'iV^^OF  THl     [1 

r 


TERKTS 


rAPANESE    EMPIRE 

INCLUDING  KOREA  AND  FORMOSA 


WITH   CHAPTERS  ON  MANCHURIA,   THE 


TRANS-SIBERIAN  RAILWAY,   AND   THE   CHIEF  I 

OCEAN  ROUTES  TO  JAPAN  ' 

i 


A  GULDEBOOK  FOR  TRAVELERS 


BY 


WITH  8  SPECIALLY  DRAWN  MAPS 
AND  21  PLANS 


BOSTON  AND  NEW  YORK 

HOUGHTON  MIFFLIN  COMPANY 

LONDON:  CONSTABLE  &  CO.,  LTD. 
TOKYO:  KYO-BUN-KWAN,  GINZA,  SHICHOME 

1914 
All  rights  reatrvtd 


T.  PHILIP  TERRY,  F.R.G.S.  | 


COPYRIGHT,   I914,  BY  T.   PHILIP  TKRRY 
ALL  RIGHTS  RSSKRVKD 


^^ 


FOREWORD 


So  many  tourists  now  include  Japan  (and  the  Far  East  gfen- 
ersdly)  in  their  annual  travel-plans,  that  a  trustworthy  and 
down-to-date  Guidebook  of  the  Empire  and  its  Colonial  Pos- 
sessions has  become  an  imperative  necessity.  Few  countries 
of  the  world  are  more  difficult  to  understand  without  such  a 
book,  and  few,  if  any,  are  as  fascinatingly  interesting  to  the 
traveler  properly  equipped.  While  Dai  Nippon  is  a  land  of 
singular  and  abiding  charm,  ite  countless  strange  customs  and 
significant  shadowings  oftentimes  are  too  veued  and  subtle 
to  be  readily  comprehended.  The  difficulty  of  interpreting 
them  without  misconception,  of  acquiring  the  correct  perspec- 
tive, and  maintaining  the  necessary  poise  and  reserve,  is  ever 
present.  Many  things  one  sees  are  misleading,  and  those  which 
appear  the  most  simple  sometimes  are  distinguished  by  an 
astonishing  complexity.  Nature  herself  not  unfrequently 
seems  so  exotic  m  Japan  that  to  court  accuracy,  and  avoid 
hyperbole,  considerable  forbearance  must  be  exercised  when 
describing  thines  just  as  the  eye  sees  them. 

Our  aim  has  been  to  present,  in  one  handy  and  compact  vol- 
ume rather  than  in  two  more  expensive  ones,  an  unusual 
amount  of  practical,  helpful,  and  unbiased  information  about 
Japan  and  its  people,  yei  by  avoiding  bleakness  and  stodginess 
to  make  that  information  as  interestmg  as  possible  compatible 
with  brevity  and  exactness.   Nearly  twelve  years  of  residence 
in  the  country,  and  repeated  journeys  on  foot  (and  otherwise) 
from  one  end  of  it  to  the  other,  have  qualified  us  to  describe 
Ll.    the  things  and  places  really  worth  seeing,  and  to  advise  the 
^    hurried  stranger  how  to  see  them  in  the  shortest  time  and  with 
^    a  minimum  outlay  of  energy  and  money.     In  securing  our 
^,    information  about  the  country  we  have  been  unwilling  to 
accept  the  reports  of  others,  preferring  in  each  case  to  go  per- 
i     sonally  to  the  source,  thus  to  secure  data  at  first  hand  and  so  be 
"7    able  to  inspire  the  traveler  with  confidence  in  its  accuracy.  In 

-  -   this  we  believe  the  book  is  unusual.  The  descriptions  of  Yezo, 

—  Formosa,  Korea,  the  Trans-Siberian  Railway,  and  others  of 
o  the  world-routes  to  Japan,  are,  like  the  rest  of  the  text,  the 
Jj    result  of  our  own  personal  experience.  The  detailed  account  of 

Korea,  with  the  maps  and  plans  which  accompany  it,  appears 
now  for  the  first  time  in  a  Guidebook  in  the  English  language. 
The  descriptions  and  maps  relating  to  little-known  Formosa 
are  new  and  are  the  most  complete  extant.  The  accMTa\,^\^ 
wjilied  rates  of  raflways,  flffceamsliips,  and  hotels  enaVAc  \.\i^ 


1^70373 


iv  FOREWORD 

• 
traveler  to  plan  his  journey  before  undertaking  it,  and  to  know 
beforehand  what  its  cost  in  time  and  money  will  be. 

In  the  283  pages  of  introductory  matter  under  the  heading, 
Preliminart  Information,  an  effort  has  been  made  to  inter- 
pret many  things  Japanese  of  interest  to  the  traveler,  and  to 
aid  him  to  a  quick  and  satisfactory  understanding  of  them. 
This  special  knowledge  will  be  found  greatly  to  enhance  the 
pleasure  of  a  visit  to  the  Japan^  Empire.  The  monographs 
on  How  to  Reach  Japan,  Traveling  Expenses,  Money,  Guides, 
Hotels,  Inns,  and  Food;  Tips,  Plan  of  Tour,  Seasons,  CUmate, 
Hints  to  Travelers,  Health,  Shops  and  Curios,  Sports,  Himting 
and  Fishing,  Geography,  Language,  Literature,  Architecture, 
the  Government  and  its  Functions;  the  People  and  their 
Homes,  Arts,  Customs,  ReUgion,  and  History;  and  the  scores  of 
minor  subjects  wUl  be  found  of  immediate  and  permanent 
value.  The  dispassionate  estimates  of  Japan  and  the  Japanese 
are  beUeved  to  be  just. 

Those  unfamiliar  with  the  Japanese  language,  who  may  yet 
wish  to  travel  without  an  expensive  courier,  will  find  of  genuine 
value  the  vocabulary  at  page  cxxx  et  seq.,  as  well  as  the  ver- 
nacular equivalents  of  many  English  words  in  the  text.  The 
Japanese  words  are  transliterated  on  the  Romagi  system  ex- 
plained at  page  cxxvli,  and  the  different  spelling  of  certain 
of  them  illustrates  the  various  usages  employed  by  authori- 
ties writing  in  that  system.  Most  of  the  Chinese  equivalents 
given  are  used  in  every-day  Japanese  speech.  In  many  places 
throughout  the  text  italic  and  other  ty^pe  forms  have  been 
employed  more  as  an  aid  to  the  eye  in  picking  out  names  from 
amid  the  Roman  characters,  than  in  an  effort  to  accord  with 
typographical  requirements. 

A  meritorious  Guidebook,  by  showing  the  careful  traveler 
how  to  obtain  the  best  returns  for  his  money  and  time,  should 
save  its  cost  the  first  day  it  is  used,  and  we  venture  to  believe 
that  such  may  be  the  case  with  this  one.  The  economically 
inclined  will  find  many  money-saving  hints  scattered  through- 
out it,  and  whosoever  essays  to  do  the  Japanese  Empire  with- 
out the  book  will  spend  considerably  more  time,  energy,  and 
money  than  are  necessary  to  the  purpose.  In  no  single  in- 
stance have  the  material  interests  of  the  traveler  been  sacri- 
ficed to  the  selfish  benefit  of  others. 

The  contents  of  the  book,  beginning  at  page  1,  are  divided 
into  Seven  Sections:  I.  Central  Japan,  Routes  1  to  12,  pages  1 
to  241.  —  II.  Northern  Japan,  Rtes.  13-18;  pp.  242  to  326.  — 
III.  Yezo,  The  Kuriles,  and  Saghalien,  Rtes.  19-23,  pp.  327 
to  364.—  IV.  Western  Japan,  Rtes.  24r-38,  pp.  365  to  646.  — 
Y.  Kyfishu  and  The  Loochoo  and  Gotd  Islands,  Rtes.  39-43, 
pp.  647  to  692.  —  VI.  Korea,  Mtochuria,  and  The  Trans- 
Siberian  Rly.,  Rtes.  44-49,  pp.  693  to  760.  —  VII.  Formosa 
ajid  The  Pescadores,  Rtes.  60-54,  pp.  761  to  791.  —  To  each 


FOREWORD  V 

section  is  prefixed  an  index  of  the  routes  and  subjects  treated, 
so  that  each  forms  relatively  a  complete  volume,  apart  from 
the  general  Table  of  Contents  or  the  general  Index. 

Tne  Maps  and  Plans  were  all  drawn  specially  for  the  book, 
and  they  are  the  newest  and  most  complete  extant.  Our  sincere 
thanks  are  due  to  certain  high  officials  of  the  Japanese  Govern- 
ment, who.  by  foreshadowing  the  railway  expansion  during  the 
next  decade,  have  aided  in  making  the  chidf  maps  of  imusual 
interest.  Most  of  the  city  plans  appear  now  for  the  first  time 
in  any  guidebook,  and  tney  are  imiquely  valuable  to  the 
traveler. 

Japan  is  misiking  such  rapid  progress  that  a  Guidebook  which 
is  not  changed  every  year  quickly  becomes  obsolete.  So  con- 
stant is  this  evolution  that  sustained  accuracy  even  between 
yearly  editions  is  difficult.  It  dbiould  be  remembered  that 
hotels  particularly  are  liable  to  change  in  name,  management, 
and  in  the  treatment  of  guests.  As  it  is  the  intention  to  keep 
the  present  book  abreast  of  the  times,  we  will  genuinely  appre- 
ciate corrections  or  su^estions  with  which  observant  travelers 
Doay  favor  us,  especif^  such  that  will  enable  tourists  to  get 
the  best  return  for  their  money  and  time.  Such  communica- 
tions shovQd  be  addressed  to  the  author  at  Hingham,  Mass., 
U.S.A,  Hotelmen  and  others  are  warned  against  persons  rep- 
resenting themselves  as  agents  for  Terry's  Guidebooks  and 
other  piH>lications. 

Asterisks  (*)  indicate  excellence  and  imply  commendation,  and  because  of 
this  they  have  been  used  sparingly  and  with  caution.  While  from  the  view- 
I>oint  of  the  Japanese,  or  of  the  foreigner  familiar  with  their  superior  quali- 
ties, certain  of  the  native  inns  well  deserve  approbation,  to  recommend  them 
unreservedly  might  create  a  false  impression  in  the  mind  of  the  stranger. 
Asterisks  have  therefore  been  withheld,  but  what  the  writer  considers  the 
best  inn  in  each  place  has  been  mentioned  first  in  the  lists  under  their  proper 
headings. 

The  letter  h.  with  a  date,  after  the  name  of  a  person,  indicates  the  year  of 
his  birth,  and  d.  the  date  of  his  death. 

Where  the  word  Indian  has  been  used,  without  explanation,  British  India 
or  its  people  or  products  is  meant. 

Prices  quoted  throughout  the  Guidebook  are  in  Japanese  money  unless 
otherwise  designated. 


CONTENTS 

PSage 

I.  Preliminary  Information   .......  xi 

A.  How  to  reach  Japan xi 

B.  Traveling  Expenses.  Money.  Ex- 
change. Banks.  Passports.  Custom- 
House.   Commercial  Travelers.  Abacus. 

Guides xviii 

C.  Hotels.  Inns.  Tea-Houses  and  Res- 
taurants. Japanese  Food.  Houses.  Fur- 
nished Houses.  Tips.  Laundry    .     .     .  xxix 

D.  Plan  of  Tour.  Tourist  Societies. 
Climate.    Seasons.    Health.     What   to 

Wear.  Hints  to  Travelers Iv 

E.  Means  of  Transportation Ixxix 

F.  Post-  and  Telegraph-Offices.  Tele- 
phones. Time   . xcii 

G.  Weights  and  Measures xcviii 

H.  Photography.    Hunting  and   Fishing  c 

I.  Tobacco.    Tea.    Rice.'  Sake.    Chop- 
Sticks  cv 

J.  Shops.  Curios.  Culture  Pearis.    Rock 

Crystals.  Jade cxii 

II.  The  Japanese  Language »    .  cxxiii 

III.  Geographical  Sketch cxxxvii 

Agriculture cxxxviii 

Geology cxxxix 

Mountains  and  Mountain  Climbing    .     .  cxxxix 

Political  Divisions cxli 

The  River  System cxliii 

Japanese  Lakes cxliv 

The  Inland  Sea cxliv 

The  Kuro-shiwo  (Japan  Stream)      .     .     .  cxlv 

Hot  Mineral  Springs cxlvii 

Mines cxlviii 

IV.  The  Constitution.  Flag.  National  Hymn     . 

People.   Newspapers.  Geisha.  Beggars. 

Thieves cl 

V.  Jujutsu.  Wrestling.  Harakiri.  Tattooing    .  clxiv 

VI.  Architecture  of  Buddhist  Temples  ....  clxxii 

Dog  of  Fo,  dxxvii. — ^Tennin,  clxxvii. — Kirin,  clzxviii. — Phoenix,  cIxx^niL 
— Dragon,  clxxxi. — Tortoise,  dxxx. — Mausolea,  dxxxi. — Tombs,  clxzxi. 

VII.  Shinto  Architecture.  The  Torii clxxxi 

VIII.  Pagodas.    Feudal  Castles.    Bridges.    Land- 
scape Gardens.   Dwarfing clxxxiii 

I^.  Buddbism clxxxix 


CONTENTS  v^ 

Page 

X.  Buddhist  Sects.   Divinities.   Temple  Ac- 
companiments. The  Lotus  ....  oxcix 
XI.  Shintoism.  Shinto  Shrines.    Shinto  Wor- 
ship          .    •    •  ccxiv 

XII.  The  Christian  Religion.  Bushido     .    •    •  ccxxi 

XIII.  A  Survey  of  Japanese  Art ccxxii 

Painting ccxxiv 

Color  Prints ccxxxi 

Ivory        ccxxxvii 

Wood  Carving ccxl 

Lacquer- Work ccxliii 

Metal-Work •  ccxlvi 

Damascening ccxlvii 

Silver  and  Gold cczlviii 

Bronze ccxlix 

Cl(HBonn4  Enamel •  ocl 

XIV.  Ceramics ccli 

a.  Th«  Wares  of  Ky5to ccliii 

b.  Satsuma  Ware ccliv 

c.  Kiyomizu  Ware •    •  cclvi 

d.  Kutani  Ware    .  ' cclvii 

e.  Miscellaneous  Wares cclviii 

XV.  Literature cclviii 

XVI.  Historical  Sketch       cdxii 

XVII.  Chronological  Table       cclxxviii 

XVIII.  Bibliography cclxxxii 

^  I.  Central  Japan. 

Route 

1.  Yokohama  and  its  Environs 3 

2.  From  Yokohama  vik  Kamakura  (Enoshima)  to  Yoko- 

suka  (Uraga  and  Misaki)        28 

3.  From  Yokohama  around  Fuji-san  to  Shoji  ....  40 

4.  From  Yokohama  to  the  summit  of  Fuji-«an      ...  45 

5.  From  Yokohama  to  Miyanoshita,  Lake  Hakone,  and 

Atami .54 

6.  From  Yokohama  vii  Tokyo  to  Karuizawa,  Nagano, 

Naoetsu,  and  Niigata  (Sado  Island) 65 

7.  From  Yokohama  to  Ikao  and  Kusatsu 85 

8.  From  Yokohama  to  the  Bonin  Islands         ....  105 

9.  From  Yokohama  vii  Kawasaki,  Kamata  (Ikegami), 

and  Omori  to  T6ky6 107 

10.  Tokyo 109 

11.  From  Tokyo  to  Vries  Island 235 

12.  From  Tokyo  vid  Chiba,  Sakura  (Narita),  and  Naruto 

to  Choshi         236 

1.  From  Tokyo  vi&  Chiba,  Soga  (Kisarazu) ,  and  OauA 

i/oKat8uura(Koinmato) ^l-VV 


vfl!  GONTENIS^ 

^  II.  Northern  Japan.  „ 

Route  Page 

13.  From Toky5  vid Utsunomiya toNikkQ  (Chu^enji,  and 

Yumoto)      .......     .     .     . .243 

14.  Nikko  and  its  Environs     ........     .     .     .     .     .  243 

15.  From  Nikko  to  Ghuzemi  and  Yumoto     ,  ;  .     ,  .  . .  .  296 

16.  From  Yumoto  vid  the  Aonsei  Pass  to  Ikao    .     .  , .    *  303 

17.  From   Tokyo    yifi,   Mitp,  Sendai,  Matsushima,  and 

Morioka  to  Aomori  (Yezo  Island)   .   : 305 

18.  From  Tokyo  yik  Utsunomiya,  Fukusjiima,  Yamagata, 

and  Akita  to  Aomori  (Hokkaido) 319 

III.  Yezo,  The  Kuriles,  and  Saghalien. 

Preliminary  Information  .     ,     .     . 327 

19.  Hakodate  and  its  Environs 345 

20.  From  Hakodate  viA  Onuma,  Otaru,  Sapporo,  Iwanii- 

zawa,  Oiwake,  Shiraoi,  and  Noboribetsu  to  Muroran  348 

21.  From  Hakodate  vifi,  Iwamizawa,  Fukagawa,  Asahi- 

gawa,  and  Ikeda  to  Kushiro  ...     .     .     .     .     .  357 

22.  The  Kurile  Islands 358 

23.  Saghalien 361 

IV.  Western  Japan. 

24.  From  Yokohama  vi&  Kozu,  Gotemba_(Fuji-san,  Sh5ji), 

and  Shizuoka  to  Nagoya  (Kyoto,  OsakEi,  and  Kobe)  367 

25.  From  Nagoya  vifi,  Shiojiri   (Matsumoto,  Shinonoi, 

Niigata),  and  Kofu  to  Tokyo 384 

26.  From  (Yokohama)  Nagoya  to  Kyoto  (Osaka  and 

.Kobe)      .     .     .     .• .^T"".     .     .     .395 

27.  Kyoto  and  its  Environs 400 

28.  From  Kyoto  to  the  Koya-san  Monasteries  ,    .     .     .511 

29.  From  Kyoto  to  Amanohashidate 533 

30.  From  Kyoto  vid  Yonago  (Sakai  and  the  Oki  Islands), 

Matsue,  and  Izumo-Imaichi  to  Kizuki  (Shrines  of 
Izumo)    .     .     .     .     .     .- j.     .     .539 

31.  From  Wadayama  to  Himeji 544 

32.  From  Maibara  vi&  Tsuruga,  Fukui,  Kanazawa,  and 

Tsubata  (Noto  Peninsula)  to  Naoetsu      ....  545 

33.  From  Kyoto  vi&  Fushimi,  Momo-yama,  and  Uji  to 

Nara 549 

34.  Nara  and  it&  Environs       .  • 554 

35.  From  Nara  to  Yamada  and  the  Shrines  of  Ise      .     .  598 

36.  From  (Yokohama,  Nagoya)  Ky5to  to  Osaka  and 

Kobe       ..........     .^^'^^.     .     .  606 

87.  Kobe  and  Neighborhood  ..........  618 

38.  From  Kobe  vl&  Himeji,  Okayama  (Shikoku  Island), 

HJroshmia,  and  Miyajima  to  Shimonoseki    .     .    .  632 


CONTENTS 


ix 


V.    KtYBH^  AND  THE  LOOCHOO  AND  Got5  ISLANDS. 
Route  Page 

39.  From  Shimonoseki  (Moji)  viA  Hakata,  Fukuoka, 

TosUy  Arita,  and  Saseho  io  Nagasaki 650 

40.  Nagasaki  and  its  Environs 659 

41.  From  Moji  (Shimonoseki)  vid  Tosu  and  Eumamoto 

(Aso  Volcano)  to  Eagoshima      .    .    .    .    .    .    .  671 

42;  From  Kumamoto  vi&  Toshita,  AsoHsan,  Takeda,  and 

Oita  to  Beppu 679 

43.  From  Beppu  vi&  Eokura  to  Moji  (Shimonoseki)  .    .  692 

VI.  Korea,  Manchuria,  and  the  Trans-Siberian  Railway. 

44.  From  Shimonoseki  (Japan)  to  Ftisan  (Korea)  .     .     w  693 

45.  From  Fusan  vi&  SanrCshin  (Mafeanpo),  Taikyti,  ^tl- 

furei,  Taiden    (Kunsan,  Mokpa),    Seikwan,    and 
Eit5ho  (Jinsen,  Chemulpo)  to  Seoul  (Eeij5)      .     .  728 

46.  Seoul  and  its  Environs     .     •     .     .     .     .     *     .     .     .  731 

47.  From  Seoul  vi&  Kyibsan  and  Eitoho  to  Jinsen  (Che- 

mulpo)    .     .     .     . 750 

48.  From  Seoul  vi&  Kaijo,  K5shu  (Kenjiho),  and  Heij5 

(Chinnampo)  to  ShingishQ  (Antung)    .     .     .     .     .  752 

49.  Manchuria  and  the  Trans-Siberian  &ilway     .    .    .  756 

VII.  Formosa  (Taiwan)  and  the  Pescadores. 

50.  Keelung  (Kiirun) 774 

51.  From  Keelung  to  Taihoku 775 

52.  Taihoku  and  its  Environs 776 

53.  From  Taihoku  vik  Hokuto  to  Tamsui 784 

54.  From  Taihoku  vid  Toyen,  Shinchiku,  Byoritsu,  Taichu 

(Rokko),  Kagi,  and  Tainan  (Anping)  to  Takao  .     .  784 


Abbreviations 


ad.  =  address. 
Am.  pi.  =  American  plan, 
approx.  =  approximately, 
cent.  =  century;  centimeter, 
circumf .  =  circumference, 
diam.  =  diameter. 

E.  =  East;  eastern,  etc. 

F.  Fahr.  =  Fahrenheit, 
ft.  =  feet. 

Gov't.  =  GovMTttment. 
hr.  =  hour, 
in.  =  inches, 
inhabs.  =  inhabitants, 
kiloms.  =  kilometers, 
lat.  "=  latitude, 
long.  =  longitude, 
lit.  =  literally. 
M.  B  miles. 


mm.  =  minutes. 

mos.  =  months. 

Mt..  mt.  =  mountain. 

N.  «=  North,  northern,  etc. 

pers.  =  person. 

gop.  =  population. 
Lly.,  rly.  =  railway. 
S.  =  South,  southern,  etc. 
s.  =  shilling, 
sq.,  sqr.  =  square. 
St.  =  street, 
sta.  »  station, 
tel.  =  telegraph. 
W.  =  West,  western,  etc. 
Wt*  =  weight. 
¥.  =  Japanese  dollar  mark, 
yds.  =  yards, 
yr.  =  year. 


The  other  abbreviations  employed  require  no  explanation. 


LIST  OF  MAPS 

1.  General  Hap  of  Japan  and  hs  Possessions,  and  their  relation  to  the 
continent  of  Asia;  facing  the  title-page. 

2.  Ilie  Main  Iskmd  ( Htmdd) ;  SMkeku,  Atoaji  and  otlier  outlying  irfands, 
and  two  enlarged  insets;  with  a  list  of  the  chief  cities  and  places  of 
interest  and  their  locations  on  the  map,  page  ezxxvia. 

3.  Kamakura  and  Neighborhood,  p.  28. 

4.  Bnvirons  of  Ikao,  p.  87. 

5.  Country  between  Ikao,  Kusatsu,  Karuizawa  and  NikkG,  p.  87. 

6.  IfikkjB  and  Bnvirons,  p.  213. 

7.  Yezo,  and  Tlie  Kuriles  and  SagfaaUen  Island,  p.  327. 

8.  Environs  of  SjOto,  p.  490. 

9.  KSya-san,  p.  511. 

10.  Environs  of  Nara,  p.  578. 

11.  KyOshfi,  and  The  Loochooand  Goto  Idands,  p.  647. 

12.  Korea,  with  a  portion  of  China  and  Russia,  p.  603. 

13.  Formosa  and  outlying  islands,  p.  761. 

The  heights  of  the  diffwent  mts.  are  given  in  English  feet. 

The  atoctstika  shown  near  a  temple  indicates  that  it  is  Buddhist;  the 

torii  that  it  is  a  Shirdd  shrine. 

The  numbers  placed  near  rly.  lines  and  prominent  cities,  are  Route 

Numbers. 


LIST  OF  PLANS 


1.  Yokohama,  p.  3. 

2.  TOkyO,  p.  100. 

3.  Shiba  Park,  p.  168. 

4.  Uyeno  Pork,  p.  197. 

6.  Imperial  Museum,  p.  201. 

6.  NikkO  Mausolea,  p.  250. 

7.  Hakodate,  p.  345. 

8.  Nagoyo,  p.  376. 

9.  Kyoto,  p.  400. 

10.  Nara,  p.  554. 

11.  Osaka,  p.  607. 

12.  Kobe,  p.  618. 

13.  Kobe  Former  Foreign  Settlement,  p.  620L 

14.  Nagasaki,  p.  659. 

15.  Seoul,  p.  732. 

16.  Taihoku,  p.  776. 

(Maps  and  Plans  engraved  by  C.  J.  Peters  &  Son  Company,  Boston.) 


I.  Preliminary  InformatioiL 

A.  How  to  reach  Japan. 

From  San  Francisco.  The  commodious  ships  of  the  Tovo 
Risen  Kaisha  (Oriental  Steamship  Co. ;  office  at  625  Market 
St.;  comp.  Tokyo)  leave  fortnightly  (consult  the  company's 
handbooks)  via  Honolulu  (2100  M.,  6  days;  fare  $76:  12  hrs. 
stop;  local  guidebook  free,  of  the  Hawaii  Promotion  Conmiit- 
tee.  Bishop  St.)  to  Yokohama  (3445  M.  farther,  in  11  days, 
through  fare  $200),  Kobe  ($207.50),  Nagasald  ($222.50) 
Shan^iai-Manila-Hongkong  ($225).  The  course  from  San 
Francisco  is  S.W.;  the  average  dail^  run  (comjp.  Time,  p. 
xcviii)  is  350  M.  From  Honolulu  (chief  city  of  the  Territory 
of  Hawaii,  on  Oahu  Island,  with  50,000  inhabs.)  the  course 
18  southward  of  the  Sandwich  Islands  (so  called  because  Capt, 
James  Cook,  the  English  navigator  who  rediscovered  them  in 
1778,  had  for  his  patron  the  ^  EaH  of  Sandwich,  First  Lord 
of  the  Admiralty)  to  lat.  24^,  thence  to  lat.  32^  and  direct 
to  the  entrance  of  the -Gulf  of  Tokyo. 

The  T,K.K,  works  in  conjimction  with  the  Denver  &  Rio 
Grande-Western  Pacific  Rly,,  one  of  the  grandest  scenic  routes 
of  America.  Modem  express  trains  equipped  with  every  known 
convenience  and  safety  appliance;  observation  and  dining-cars 
(d  la  carte  service),  etc.,  make  the  trip  (stop-over  privileges) 
from  San  Francisco  (crossing  California,  Nevada,  Utah,  and 
Colorado)  to  (1585  M.)  Denver  (thence  direct  to  Kansas  City, 
St.  Louis,  Chicago,  and  New  York)  in  about  2i  days  through  a 
veritable  wonderland.  Conspicuous  features  are  the  100  M. 
of  magnificent  scenery  in  the  Feather  River  Caiion  (of  the 
Sierra  Nevadas);  Ogden;  Salt  I^ake  City  and  the  Great  Salt 
Lake  (elevation  4()00  ft.;  area,  1600  sq.  M.;  average  depth, 
10  ft. ;  70  M.  long;  30  M.  wide;  water,  26%  salt ;  specific  gravity 
such  that  it  sustains  the  human  body) ;  Marshall  Pass  and  the 
Continental  Divide  (10,856  ft.);  the  Royal  Gorge  of  the 
Arkansas  River;  Colorado  Springs;  Manitou;  Pike's  Peak 
(14,109  ft.;  cog  rly.);  and  many  majestic  mt.  i>eaks,  mineral 
springs,  and  fashionable  resorts  of  the  American  Rockies. 
Attractive  handbooks  (finely  illustrated  in  colors)  containing 
information  of  value  to  travelers  can  be  had  (free)  of  any  of  the 
Co.'s  agents. 

San  Fbancisco  is  a  magnificent  city  of  manifold  sights  and  excellent  hotels, 
and  the  stranger  passing  through  it  should  plan  to  devote  a  week  at  least 
to  a  survey  of  its  unique  and  beautiful  environs.  Many  weeks  could  be 
spent  to  advantage  visiting  the  world-famed  California  resorts  which  lie 
ooatiguoiis.  Most  of  these  occupy  singularly  attractive  sites  amid  semi- 
teopio  surroundings  backed  by  wonderful  views  of  mountains  or  forests, 
or  stretches  of  entrancing  sea,  and  all  are  brooded  over  by  a  climate  so 
iMiltless  that  it  attracts  the  ailing  and  the  well  alike  from  all  part^  ol  \i\ie 
world*    Conspicuously  excellent  among  the  Saji  Francisco  Hotels  \s  \]be 


xii      HOW  TO  REACH  JAPAN  FROM  CANADA 

well-known,  popular,  and  luxurious  ^Palaee^  on  Market  St.  near  the 
buainesa  center  (rooma  only,  from  S2.50  a  day;  meals  d  la  carte  at  reason- 
able prices);  and  the  stately  and  palatial  *Fatrmon<  (both  recommended), 
celebrated  for  its  delicious  food,  its  commanding  position  on  Nob  HiU 
(5  min.  from  the  business  center),  and  its  pcuioramic  views  of  the  city  and 
bay;  rooms  with  bath  from  $2.50;  meals  d  la  carte.  Hotel  omnibuses  (50  c.) 
and  runners  meet  all  trains.  Travelers  arriving  at  Frisco  sevm^  days  prior 
to  date  of  sailing  can  save  storage  and  several  transfer  charges  on  ba^age 
(which  will  not  be  accepted  at  the  dock  before  the  day  of  sailing)  by  ddiver- 
ing  checks  to  the  agent  of  the  Transfer  Co.  (trustworthy)  that  comes  ab<Mird 
the  train,  and  by  requesting  that  trunks  be  held  and  delivered  at  the  dock 
as  required  (inclusive  charge  50  c.  per  package). 

Japanbsb  Monst  (usefiU  on  landing  in  Japan)  can  be  had  (at  about 
2  yen  for  $1  —  comp.  p.  zviii)  of  the  San  Francisco  branch  of  the  Yokohama 
Specie  Bank,  Ltd.  (Sansome  St.),  or  of  Thos.  Cook  A  Son,  689  Market  St. 
(under  the  Palace  Hotel). 

From  Canada.  The  Canadian  Pacific  Railway  (usually 
referred  to  as  the  CP.R.)  Company^ 8  Eoyal  Mail  Steamship 
Line  (called  the  'Empress'  line)  operates  (in  conjunction 
with  the  rly.)  a  fortnightly  service  (excellent  to  the  smallest 
detail)  from  Vancouver,  B.C.  ( Vancouver  Hotelj  i  M.  from 
CP.R.  station;  cab  25  c;  room  and  board,  from  $4  a  day; 
room  only,  from  $2),  calling  at  Victoria  (Empress  Hotel,  near 
the  ship's  landing,  rooms  only,  from  $2  a  day;  meals  d  la 
carte  at  reasonable  prices)  to  pick  up  passengers  from  San 
Francisco  (office  at  645  Market  St.)  and  southern  ports. 
Fare  from  Vancouver,  Victoria,  San  Francisco,  and  inter- 
vening points  to  (4283  M.,  in  9-12  davs)  Yokohama  $200; 
Kobe  $207.50;  Nagasaki  $222.50;  and  Shanghai-Manila- 
Hongkong  $225. 

Of  peculiar  interest  to  the  leisurely  traveler  fond  of  hunting  and  fishing 
is  the  fact  that  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railioay  traverses,  between  Montreid 
and  Vancouver  (2898  M.,  express  trains  in  4  days),  perhaps  the  finest  and 
best-stocked  wild-game  preserve  in  North  America.  Conspicuous  among  the 
big  game  of  Canada  are  the  moose,  elk,  caribou,  musk-ox,  grizzly  bear, 
black  bear,  bighorn  or  mountain  sheep,  cougar,  lynx,  and  antelope.  There 
is  a  multiplicity  of  small  fur-bearing  animals,  as  well  as  an  astonishing 
variety  of  feathered  game  and  fine  fish  (bass,  maskinonge,  land-locked  sal- 
mon, trout,  etc.)-  The  company  maintains  a  special  Sportsman's  Depart- 
ment  (address  General  Tourist  Agent,  Canadian  Pacific  Railway,  Mon- 
treal.  Que.)  which  supplies  free  information  relating  to  the  best  campini^ 
grounds,  canoe-trips,  outfits  and  supplies,  guides,  game-laws,  etc.  The 
chain  of  superb  hotels  (under  the  rly.  management,  and  often  amid  magni> 
fioent  mountain  environments)  which  dot  the  line  from  the  Atlantic  to  the 
Pacific,  rank  in  point  of  luxury  and  comfort  with  those  of  any  land,  and  while 
being  considerably  cheaper  than  metropolitan  hotels,  are  ideal  headquar- 
ters from  which  to  make  hunting  or  fishing  trips.  These  mountain  rbsortb 
(popular  open-air  sanatoriums,  with  hot  medicinal  springs,  etc.)  are  much 
frequented  by  the  foreign  residents  of  Japan  and  China. 

From  Victoria  the  ships  follow  the  Great  Circle  Track 
(shortest  to  the  Orient)  south  of  Alaska,  until  the  Aleutian 
Islands,  with  their  oftentimes  magnificent  volcanic  displays, 
are  sighted,  then  the  course  is  S.W.  to  the  Kinkazan  liight- 
house,  whence  it  is  a  short  day's  run  to  the  Avxt  Headland, 
at  the  entrance  to  Tokyo  Bay,  In  summer  the  North  Pacific 
i7  delighHuily  cool;  in  winter  the  ships  seek  the  warm  waters 


ROUND  THE  WORLD  TOURS  xill 

of  the  myBterious  Kvro^iwo  (oomp.  p.  cxlv)  and  follow  the 
course  of  the  current  to  the  Japanese  Coast. 

The  ships  of  both  the  foregoing  lines  compare  favorably 
in  size  (20,000  tons  and  upward),  speed,  eouipment,  good 
food,  and  general  comfort  with  many  of  the  best  trans- 
atlantic liners,  and  are  strictly  modem  (wireless  telegraphy, 
dectric  fans,  sufficient  lifeboats,  etc.).  Owing  to  their  popu- 
larity they  usually  run  full  during  the  spring  and  autumn  sea- 
sons, and  cabins  should  be  engaged  well  m  advance.  The 
Japanese  and  Chinese  stewards  speak  English.  The  custom- 
ary fare  for  Children  on  both  lines  is:  under  12  and  over  5 
yrs.  i  the  adult  fare;  2  and  under  5  yrs.  \\  imder  2  free  (for  1 
child;  others  at  the  }  rate).  Round-tnp  tickets,  good  for  6  and 
12  months,  to  Yokohama  $300  and  $350  respectively;  Kobe 
$312.50  and  $365;  Nagasaki  $334  and  $393.75;  Shanghai- 
ManUa- Hongkong  $337.50  and  $393.75.  Customary  reduc- 
tion for  missionaries,  servants,  and  others.  Steamer-chairs 
rentable  on  board  for  $1  for  the  voyage.  Laundry  on  the 
ship  at  reasonable  prices.  Baggage  allowance  350  lbs.  in 
addition  to  hand-luggage;  excess  (usually  overlooked  unless 
there  is  a  big  lot)  at  3  c.  per  lb.  Travelers  from  Europe  or  the 
Atiantic  Seaboard  can  save  considerable  by  remembering 
that  a  through  ticket  (cheaper  in  proportion  than  one  bought 
on  the  Pacific  Coast)  entitles  one  to  350  lbs.  of  baggage  on 
the  transcontinental  rlys.  (where  150  lbs.  is  the  usual  allow- 
ance, and  where  excess  generally  costs  about  12  c.  a  lb.). 

Round  the  World  Tours  are  sometimes  made  (about  80 
^ys)  by  the  C.P.R.  Co.  in  its  own  ships  (very  popular)  at  an 
inclusive  fare  of  $639.  At  other  times  they  are  planned  in 
connection  with  the  fine  ships  of  the  Peninsular  &  Oriental 
Steam  Namgation  Co.,  the  Norddeuischer  Lloyd,  and  other 
weU-known  lines,  at  prices  ranging  from  $639,  according  to 
the  countries  visited.  Time  limit  2  years.  Beside  trans- 
pacific and  transatlantic  services  the  C.P.R.  Co.  operates 
the  Canadian  Australian  Royal  Mail  Steamship  Line  between 
Vancouver  and  Hawaii  (2435  M. ;  fare  to  Honolulu  $75,  Ist  cL), 
Fiji  ($200),  New  Zealand  (6250  M.;  fare  $200).  and  Aus- 
tralia (7265  M.;  to  Sydney  $200;  Melbourne  $207);  and 
world  tours  are  arranged  which  include  these  places.  Thus, 
from  Vancouver  to  Australia,  thence  to  Japan  (Nippon 
Yusen  Kaisha  Line,  p.  xvi),  Ceylon,  and  Europe,  costs 
$827.40. —  Tickets  over  the  Toyo  Risen  Kaisha  at  the  same 
prices.  This  company  also  operates  an  excellent  bi-monthly 
service  between  Yokohama  and  South  American  ports, 
touching  at  ManzaniUo  and  Salina  Cruz  (Mexico).  Detailed 
information  upon  application  to  any  of  the  company's  agents. 

The  Intermediate  Service,  or  *  One-Class  Cabm'  a\i\pa 
operated  by   both   Vmes  appeal  to  the  economicaWy-mcVm^A 


xiv    HOW  TO  REACH  JAPAN  PROM  SEATTLE 

traveler.  The  vessels  are  those  which  but  a  few  years  ago  were 
'  crack '  liners,  but  which  have  now  been  outclassed  by  even 
larger  ones.  They  are  equal  to  the  best  class  on  certain  other 
lines  and  are  deservedly  popular.  Fare  to  Yokohama  $150; 
to  Kobe  $157.50;  Nagasaki  $171;  Shanghai-Hongkong- 
Manila  $175  (round  trip,  with  6  months'  limit,  $225;  $236.50; 
$256.50,  and  $262.50  respectively).  —  A  special  Mixed^Rate 
round-trip  ticket  to  Japan  and  China  ports  ($262.50  to  $300 
good  for  6  months,  and  $298.90  to  $342.65  with  a  12  months' 
limit)  enables  one  to  proceed  on  the  first-class  ships  and  return 
on  an  intermediate  one,  or  vice  versa. 

Passengers  bound  for  points  beyond  Japan  are  privileged 
to  exchange  a  portion  of  their  ticket  (consult  the  slup's  Purser) 
and  travel  on  the  Japanese  Railways  (see  p.  Ixxxiii)  by  payine 
a  trifling  additional  amount  to  cover  the  extra  chai]ge  collected 
on  express  trains,  etc.    Tips  are  mentioned  at  p.  liv. 

The  Pacific  Mail  S.S,  Co,  also  operates  a  fortnightly  "ser- 
vice from  San  Francisco  to  Japan  and  China  ports;  rates  of 
passage  practically  those  of  the  Toyo  Risen  Kaisha. 

From  Tacoma  and  Seattle.  Nippon  Yusen  Kaisha  <8ee 
p.  139);  fortnightly  to  (4285  M.  in  14-16  days)  Yokohama  and 
Kobe  (fare  $110,  1st  cl.;  round  trip  with  6  months'  limit 
$165);  Shanrfiai-Hongkong  ($125  and  $187.50),  and  Manila 
($150  and  $225).  Round  the  World  Tours  $500  (vi& 
Montreal)  and  (vift  New  York)  $510  (2  yrs.  limit).  The  line 
operates  in  America  in  conjunction  with  the  Great  Northern 
and  the  Northern  Pacific  Railwavs;  and  in  Japan  (to  Europe^ 
Australia,  etc.)  with  its  own  big.neet  of  ships. 

Osaka  Shosen  Kaisha  (see  Osaka)  j  fortnightly  to  Yoko- 
hama, Kobe,  Moji,  and  Nagasaki;  fare  $95,  1st  cl.  (thence  to 
Shanghai-Manila-Hongkong  $110).  Returning  the  (single) 
fare  from  Manila  is  $130;  Hongkong-Shanghai  $110;  and 
Japan  ports  $95.  Round  trip,  6  months'  limit  $150-165;  for 
1  yr.  $175-$190.  In  America  the  company  works  in  conjunc- 
tion witii  the  Chicago,  Milwaukee  &  Puget  Sound  R.R.;  in 
Japan  with  its  own  extensive  fleet  of  ships.  The  excellent 
little  guidebooks  issued  (free)  by  the  publicity  department  (*  A 
Guide  to  Manchuria  and  Beyond ' ;  to  *  Formosa' ;  *  Vladivos- 
tock';  'Korea,';  'Tientsin';  'Dairen';  and  to  the  company's 
'  Inland  Sea  Service ')  are  attractive  and  useful. 

Both  of  the  foregoing  lines  carry  the  American  and  Japan- 
ese mails  and  both  are  popular  with  travelers  of  modest  means. 
The  ships  carry  English-speaking  officers  and  are  equipped 
with  ample  lifeboat  facilities,  wirel^  outfits,  free  libraries, 
electric  fans,  laundries,  etc.  Steaip^-chairs  free.  Baggage 
allowance  350  lbs.  Rates  for  children  are:  under  12  yrs.  flare; 
under  4  yrs.  free  (more  than  one  child  i  rate  extra).  The  same 
jorivileges  are  granted  over  the  Japanese  Railways  as  those 
menfy'oned  above. 


HOW  TO  REACH  JAPAN  FROM  EUROPE      zv 

From  Europe.  Of  all  the  extended  ocean  voyagee  of  the 
worid,  none  are  equal  in  su9tained  picturesque  charm  and 
value  for  tourists  to  the  45  days'  trip  from  (12,114  M.)  London 
or  Bremen  yi&  the  Atlantic  to  the  Mediterranean,  thence 
tiirough  the  Suez  Canal,  Red  Sea,  Indian  Ocean^  Straits  of 
Malacca,  China  Sea,  Inland  Sea  of  Japan,  tand  the  Pacific 
Ocean  to  Yokohuna.  On  the  outward  voya^  ships  of  the 
diief  lines  call  every  3  or  4  days  at  some  fascmatingly  inter- 
esting port  and  usually  stop  long  enough  to  allow  passengers 
to  go  ashore  for  a  few  hours  and  wander  through  the  briUiant, 
sunlit  streets,  the  glittering  bazaars  and  shops,  the  gorgeous 
temples,  botaiiical  gardens,  museums,  etc.,  for  which  each  may 
be  lamous.  Gibraltar,  Algiers,  Marseilles,  Grenoa,  Naples, 
Brindisi,  Malta,  Port  Said,  Suez,  Aden,  Colombo,  Penang, 
fiSngapore,  Hongkong,  Manila.  Shanghai,  Nagasaki,  and  Kobe 
are  tmiched  at  by  most  of  tne  ships  mentioned  hereinafter, 
and  the  booklets  (see  below)  issued  by  the  companies  usually 
give  a  condensed  historical  sketch  of  each  port  and  sufficient 
practical  information  about  it  to  enable  the  traveler  to  see  the 
thii^  most  worth  seeing  in  the  shortest  possible  time. 

Ofthe  various  lines  which  ply  regularly  between  Europe  and 
the  Far  East,  a  limited  numbier  carry  the  bulk  of  the  travel, 
and  as  space  forbids  reference  to  all  of  them,  only  those  most 
popular  with  the  traveling  public  will  be  mentioned  in  detail. 
The  North  German  Lloyd  (or  NarddeuUcher  lAoyd,  known 
throughout  the  East  as  the  German  Mail,  and  as  the  N,D.L,). 
the  Peninsular  &  Oriental  Steam  Navigation  Company  (called 
the  P.  &  0.  for  short),  and  the  Nippon  Yusen  Kaisha  (referred 
to  usually  as  the  N,Y,K,)y  all  with  large  fleets,  magnificent 
ships,  and  every  refinement  necessary  to  comfortable  travel 
in  low  latitudes  (electric  fans,  air-cooled  cabins,  music  at 
meals,  libraries,  la&ndries,  etc.),  are  preeminent,  and  each 
possesses  individual  points  of  excellence  which  appeal  to 
travelers.  All  run  so  full  during  the  autunm,  winter,  and 
spring  that  to  secure  accommodations  one  must  apply  for 
them  well  in  advance.  This  is  especially  so  on  the  voyages  to 
Europe  between  Oct.  and  Jan.,  when  the  season  for  India 
and  Egypt  (both  are  uncomfortably  hot  in  March)  is  at  its 
height,  and  when  travelers  who  have  come  to  Japan  in 
Sept. -Nov.,  to  see  the  chrysanthemums  and  maples,  continue 
southward  through  China  and  India,  with  plans  for  Continental 
Europe  in  the  early  spring. 

Rates  of  Passage.  The  P.  &  O.  ships  sail  fortnightly  from 
London  vi&  many  ports  to  Yokohoma;  £65,  1st  cl.;  on  inter- 
mediate ships  (smaUer  but  very  comfortable)  £59;  £44  and  £40 
respectively,  2d  cl.  Children  over  12  yrs.  full  fare;  over  3  yrs. 
}  fare;  }  fare  for  an  additional  child  under  3  yrs.  Luoqa^qii 
aBowance  336  lbs.  in  addition  to  hand-baggage.  Excesa  \>e- 
tween  xay  two  porta  10s.  per  cwt  —  The  P.  &  0.  PuaiiSTiKEk 


jcvi    HOW  TO  REAC^  JAPAN  FROftI  EPQPPB 

Cbuisbs  in  the  Meditenranean  are  unique  in  their  wav; 
{ujimirably  planned,  and  conducted  on  luxurious  and  perfectly 
.api|t»Qinted  ships  at  reasonable  rates.  For  maps,  itinerary  notes, 
sauing  dates,  fares,  etc.,  consult  the  handbooks  (attractivelv 
grintea  in  colors)  issued  (free)  by  the  company.  The  P,  &  O- 
Pocket  BbOK,^.  handsomely  illustrated  guidebook  with  280 
pages  and  numerous  excellent  maps  and  plans,  is  of  imn^e* 
diate  value  to  travelers  in  Egypt,  India,  AustraUa,  and  the 
Far  East  (price 2s. 6d.).  The  'Motor  Map  of  Ceylon'  (free) 
in  book  form  gives  information  of  value  to  mptorists.  The 
P.  &  0,  Handbook  of  Information  contains  rates,  saiUi^ 
dates,  and  other  matter  pertaining  to  the  Une.  Free  on  appli- 
cation to  any  P.  &  0.  agent.  Circular  Tickets  vi&  Siberia 
and  Suez,  or  vice  versa,  to  the  Far  East,  available  for  2  yrs. 
and  with  privilege  of  breaking  the  journey  at  the  principal 
places  on  the  sea  voyage,  are  to  be  had  at  fares  ranging  from 
£104, 14«.  Id.,  1st  cL,  and  £71, 15s.  Id.,  2d  cl. 

The  North  German  Lloyd;  fortnightly  from  Antwerp, 
Bremen,  Hamburg,  Rotterdam,  and  Southampton  vi&  ports 
to  Yokohama;  £71, 10s.,  1st  cl.;  £48,  8s.,  2d.  cl.  Rate  for  chil- 
dren the  same  as  that  of  the  P.  &  0.  Lugqage  allowance  440 
lbs.  (200  kilos),  providing  it  does  not  measure  more  than  1 
cubic  meter.  Hand-baggage  free.  Excess  baggage  £2,  lOs. 
per  ton.  The  magnificently  appointed  ships  of  the  company 
are  too  well  known  to  require  description.  The  Travelers' 
Checks  and  Circular  Notes  issued  by  the  company  are 
referred  to  in  detail  at  Pt  xviii.  Information  relating  to  the 
circular  voyages  through  the  South  Sea  Islands  wiU  be 
found  in  the  excellent  Handbooks  —  issued  frequently  (free). 
;  The  Nippon  Yusen  Kaisha  (oomp.  Tokyo) ;  fortnightly 
fipm  London  and  Antwerp  vi4  ports  to  Yokohama.  The 
largest  ships  (8000  to  15,000  tons)  come  lihder  Class  A;  those 
of  6000-8000  tons  under  Class  B.  Fare  by  the  former  $275, 
1st  cl.  (return  voyage  600  yen)]  $190,  2d  cl.  By  the  latter 
$250,  1st  cl.  (returning  550  yen)  and  $175,  2d.  cl.  The  Hand- 
book OP  Information  (in  English,  free)  issued  by  the  com- 
pany contains  data  relating  to  ships,  etc.,  and  historical 
sketches  (including  hotel  rates,  etc.)  of  the  chief  cities  of  Java, 
India,  Australia,  etc.  Steamer-chairs  free.  Children  und^ 
12  yrs.  i  fare;  1  under  3  yrs.  free;  others  at  J  fare.. 

All  the  foregoing  lines  sell  Round-Trip  tickets  available 
for  2  yrs.  at  1^  fares.  Single-Trip  tickets  customarily  are 
good  for  12  months  and  have  stop-over  privileges.  With  the 
exception  of  those  of  the  N.Y.K.^  the  rates  of  passage  from 
Japan  to  Europe  are  about  10  per  cent  less  than  those  from 
Europe  to  Japan.  Round  the  World  tickets  (2  yrs.  limit)  over 
the  N,Y,K.  and  aUied  lines  cost  from  $500  upward  accord- 
ing to  the  route  followed;  over  the  P.  <fe  0.  viA  Canada  or  the 
iZRA.  ffi38  (mduding  AustraUa  $826);  over  the   N.G.L. 


HOW  TO  REACH  JAPAN  FROM  AUSTRALIA    zvii 

|655  and  upward;  2d  cl.  in  proportion.  The  reductions  in 
fares  for  tliose  who  travel  overland  between  England  and 
Italy  are  mentioned  in  the  literature  of  the  several  companies. 
Stefuner-tnmks  for  all  ships  should  not  measure  above  33  in. 
long.  16  in.  hi^,  and  20  in.  wide. 

The  Messaqeries  MarUimes  de  France  (French  Mail  Line)  con- 
ducts a  fortnightlv  service  between  Marseilles  (vid  ports)  and 
Yokoluima  (fare  |336,  1st  cl.)  and  is  patronized  chiefly  by  pa- 
triotic Frenchmen.  The  cuisine,  hours  of  meals,  etc.,  are  French. 

llie  Trans-Siberian  Railway,  is  described  in  Rte.  49. 

From  Australia.  The  Nippon  Yuaen  Kaisha  maintains  an 
excellent  4-weekly  service  (good  ships,  recommended)  between 
Yokohama  and  Melbourne  (7074  M. ;  37  days;  fare  £48, 1st  cl. ; 
£30  lOs.,  2d  cl.),  touching  on  the  outwara  voyage  at  Hong- 
kong (1808  M.;  fare  100  yen,  1st  cl.;  69  yen.  2d  cL);  Manila 
(2439  M.;  130  and  78  yen);  Thursday  Islaad  (4632  M.;  £33 
and  £19);  Townsville  (5296  M.;  Jd38  and  £25);  Brisbane 
(5986  M.;  £44  and  £29),  and  Sydney  (6494  M.;  £47  and  £30). 
The  same  general  condiitions  exist  relating  to  children,  lug- 
gage, round-trip  tickets,  etc.,  as  on  the  European  and  Ameri- 
can lines.  The  course  from  Manila  is  southward  through  the 
beautiful  East  Indies,  over  the  Sulti  and  the  Celebes  Seas; 
through  the  tortuous  passages  of  the  Molucca  or  Spice  Islands; 
thence  across  the  Banda  Sea,  the  Gulf  of  Carpentaria,  through 
Torres  Straits,and  inside  the  Great  Barrier  Reef  which  stretches 
for  over  a  thousand  miles  along  the  Pacific  shore  of  Queens- 
land. Few  voyages  in  the  East  compare  with  it  for  tropical 
beauty  and  charm.  The  natives  of  some  of  the  islands  touched 
at  are  as  wild  os  any  cannibals,  and  wonderful  South-Soa 
Island  curios  can  be  had  in  the  shops  of  the  difforont  ports. 

Big  ships  of  the  North  German  Lloyd  also  make  the  trip 
every  4  weeks  from  Yokohama  to  Melbourne  (fare  £48,  1st 
cl.;  £31  2d.  cl.),  touching  at  Hongkong,  Manila,  Yap,  Bria- 
bane,  and  Sydney  (£40  and  £29  10s.);  round  trip  tickets  at 
reduced  rates,  etc.;  the  same  regulations  exist  aa  are  found 
on  the  European  line. 

The  P.  &  O.  Service  is  from  Yokohama  to  Colombo  (5123 
M.,  fare  £31, 1st  cl.),  thence  to  Sydney  (5556  M.;  £41, 1st  el.; 
£29,  2d  cl.). 

Detailed  information  relating  to  all  the  lines  is  to  be  found 
in  the  different  handbooks  issued  by  them. 

Ilates  of  passage,  etc.,  applying  to  the  Eastern  &-  Australian 
S.S,  Co,,  Ltd.  (monthly  service  between  Yokohama  and  Austra- 
lian ports)  can  be  had  on  application  to  any  of  its  agents. 

The  Conducted  Tours  of  Thos.  Cook  &  Son;  Tfie  Raymond  & 
Whitcamb  Cor,   The  Collver  Tours  Co.;   The  Hamburg  Ameri- 
can S.S.  Co.]  Pacific  Travel  Bureau;  Frank  C/arfc,  and  others 
are  varied,  popular,  and  cheap.    Full  information  conceTiuw^ 
them  can  be  obtained  from  the  prospectuses  issued  by  each. 


xviii  EXPENSES  AND  MONEY 

B.Traveliiig  Expenses.  Money.  Exchange.  Banks.  Passpofts. 
Costom-House.  Commercial  Travelers.    Abacus.  Guides. 

Expenses.  The  cost  of  traveling  in  Japan  is  less  than  in 
Europe  or  the  United  States.  The  average  daily  outgo 
will  vary  from  8  to  15  yen  ($4  to  $7.50  U.S.  money),  accord- 
ing to  one's  requirements  and  willingness  to  forego  non-es- 
sentials. This  sum  should  include  jinriki  fares  and  might  be 
made  to  cover  2d  cl.  fares  on  railways  if  short  journeys  only 
were  made.  A  material  sa^dng  can  be  effected  if  one  is  content 
with  simple  fare  and  environment,  modest  apartments  in 
hotels,  and  will  walk  or  use  tram-cars  instead  of  hailing  a 
motor-car  or  a  jinriki  at  every  turn.  These  last  and  guides  add 
considerably  to  the  cost  of  getting  about,  and  both  mive  a  way 
of  creating  other  expenditures.  Living  is  higher  in  the  large 
cities  on  the  direct  hne  of  tourist  travel  than  m  the  interior  of 
the  country,  where  from  5  to  8  yen  will  be  the  average  dail^ 
expense,  provided  guides  and  special  conveyances  are  elimi- 
nated. These  estimates  do  not  include  wmes,  motor-trips, 
geisha  entertainments,  or  other  unusual  extras.  They  can 
be  reduced  by  25  per  cent  or  more  by  settling  in  a  place  for  a 
long  stay.  The  small  daily  cost  of  a  good  mineral  water  should 
not  be  begrudged,  as  it  is  wiser  to  economize  in  other  ways 
than  to  omit  this  necessary  health  precaution. 

Travelers'  Cheques  and  Letters  op  Credit  afford 
the  maximum  of  protection  and  convenience  in  travel  money 
matters.  American  Bankers'  Association  Travelers'  Cheques 
(known  practically  everywhere  as  "  A.B.A."  Cheques)  are  is- 
sued by  thousands  of  banks  in  the  United  States  and  Canada 
(and  other  countries  of  the  globe),  and  besides  being  redeem- 
able at  upward  of  fifty  thousand  banks  throughout  the  worid, 
are  universally  accepted  in  payment  of  hotel  bills  and  other 
travel  expenses.  They  are  protected  against  fraud  by  the  Wil- 
liam J.  Bums  National  Detective  Agency,  and  are  the  only 
travelers'  cheques  that  under  the  law  can  be  accepted  by  the 
United  States  Customs  officials.  "  A.B.A."  Cheques  are  issued 
in  the  customary  denominations  of  $10,  $20,  $50,  and  $100. 
at  the  usual  rate  of  i  of  1  per  cent  premium. 

The  North  German  Lloyd  S.S.  Co.,  the  Canadian  Pacific  Rail- 
way Co,  and  others  also  issue  Travelers'  Cheques  of  the  above 
denominations  at  the  same  rate.  On  presentation  of  such 
cheques  the  traveler  is  paid  their  equivalent  in  the  money  of 
the  country  visited.  They  render  one  independent  of  the  numer- 
ous bank  holidays  observed  in  the  Far  East  and  are  both  safer 
to  carry,  and  cheaper  to  handle,  than  coin  or  currency. 

Their  possession  will  often  save  the  traveler  a  heavy  discount 
on  his  ready  money.  Comp.  Exchange^  p.  xxi. 

Money  (kane;  hinsu;  hinsen,  etc.).  The  currency  of  Japan 
is  arranged  on  the  decimal  system  with  the  gold  standard  (re- 


MONEY 

verted  to  in  1897)  as  the  base.  The  monetary  unit  is  the  yen 
(Chinese:  yuen,  'round/  a  'round  thing/  a  'dollar')  of  100 
aen  (cents),  worth  approximately  50  American  cents;  2  shil- 
ling and  a  penny;  2  marks;  2i  francs;  or  a  Mexican  peso. 
Neither  the  silver  yen  (which  is  the  same  size  as  an  Amer. 
cilver  dollar)  nor  the  gold  coins  {kin-ka)  which  liie  silver 
(jffin)  ccHns  represent  are  seen  in  circulation;  the  former  having 
been  withdrawn,  and  the  latter  being  used  chiefly  to  pay  foreign 
loans  or  their  interest.  They  can  be  had  at  par  at  neariy  any 
of  the  banks.  The  corresponding  sign  for  the  dollar  mark  in 
Japan  is  the  initial  Y  of  the  yen  with  two  horizontal  lines  across 
the  stem,  thus  ¥.   The  current  coins  and  notes  are:  — 

1  i%dn)  rin  (or  10  mo,  or  mon),  the  equiralent  of  1  mill  or  1-10  of  1  ten; 

of  o<xiper  (dd-ha). 

6  Qfo)  rin;  i  «en,  or  1-200  of  one  yen  (¥1) ;  copper. 

1  ten  (iehi  sen),  equal  to  10  rin,  or  1-100  of  a  yen;  copper. 

2  ••    (niaen),      ^*      "  20    "     "   1-50 * 

B    "    (ffo  ««n),       **      "  1-20  of  1  yen,  the  only  nickel  (niekeru)  coin. 
10   **    C/fi  sen),  a  dime,  or  1-10  of  a  yen;  silver. 
20   **    (nv-/fi  een),  i  of  a  yen  (the  Japanese  franc  piece);  silver. 
100   '*    (icAt  yen  or  en);  of  paper  (ehihei). 

5  yen;  of  gold;'!also  paper;  pronouncea  go  en, 
10 *       "        "  "  jew  en. 

The  new  2(y-sen  piece  is  of  an  equal  circumference  with  the 
5sen  nickel,  and  after  dark  is  easily  mistaken  for  it.  To  avoid 
proffering  the  more  valuable  piece  where  the  nickel  is  intended, 
one  has  out  to  remember  that  the  former  has  a  milled  edge 
and  that  the  latter  is  smooth.  The  b^iks  take  no  coin  smaller 
than  the  rin  into  account,  but  petty  tradesmen  often  make 
calculations  in  the  mon  a  perforated  copper  coin  equal  to 
1-1000  of  a  ktjoan  (the  income  of  a  daimyq  measured  in  cash), 
and  in  ehu  —  ancient  rectangular  silver  coins  not  used  now. 
They  also  customarily  say  go  rin  instead  of  J  sen.  The  'cash  * 
(O-saisen)  of  Japan  is  1-20  of  a  sen  and  is  used  chiefly  as  an 
offering  in  the  contribution-box  (saisen-bako)  of  temples  — 
near  the  approaches  to  which  they  can  usually  be  bought. 
The  large  oblong  ones  with  a  hole  in  the  center  are  sold  in 
curio-shops  at  a  small  advance  of  their  face  value  (8  rin). 
The  name  Tempo  (an  abbreviation  of  Temposen)  is  (hie  to  the 
fact  that  the  legitimate  coins  (now  rare)  were  minted  during 
the  Tempo  era  (8th  cent.)  and  struck  again  in  1830-43  (with- 
drawn between  1873-85).  Five-  and  lO-sen  pieces,  and  1-yen 
notes  are  sometimes '  cornered '  by  speculators,  and  to  supply 
the  demand  and  profit  by  it,  small  exchange-booths  stand  just 
outside  the  entrance  to  many  of  the  prominent  rly.  stations 
Money  is  exchanged  for  a  premium  of  1  per  cent. 

Bank  Bills  (redeemable  in  gold,  at  par)  of  1,  5, 10, 100,  and 
1000  yen  circulate  from  government  and  private  banks  and  are 
beautifully  printed  (at  Tokyo,  in  the  Insatsu  Kyoku)  on  tough 
but  fine  native  paper  manufactured  specially  for  the  p\irpo«fc. 
Ibe  iMiper,  mlver,  and  mckel  monies  are  freely  co\mlerlev\ftd. 


MONEY 

Values  are  expressed  in  Japanese  and  EnpUsh.  The  vigiiettefl 
on  certain  of  the  notes  refer  to  episodes  in  the  history  of  the 
nation,  or  picture  historical  or  mythological  characters.  Bills 
of  the  Bank  of  Japan  {Nippon  Ginko)  have  a  wider  circulation 
than  others.  A  medallion  of  the  old  silver  yen  may  be  seen 
on  the  back  of  the  1-^en  note.  The  5-|/en is imiquely  handsome; 
when  held  against  the  light  the  blank  medallion  discloses  the 
smiling,  mischievous  face  of  the  elusive  Daikoku,  'God  of 
Wealtfi.'  The  fine  portrait  is  of  Sugawara  Michizane,  and  the 
shrine  on  the  reverse,  the  KUano  Tenjin  (in  Kyoto).  On  the 
face  of  the.  IQ-^en  note  is  the  16-petal  imperial  chrysanthe- 
mum, a  portrait  of  Wake  Kiyomaro,  and  a  shrine  (the  Go-o^ 
nnsha)  erected  to  his  memory  near  the  old  Imperial  Palace  in 
Kyoto.  The  vignette  of  a  running  wild  boar  on  the  reverse  is 
not,  as  is  commonly  supposed,  due  to  the  money  being  printed 
in  the  Year  of  the  Boar,  but  because  Kiyomaro  was  fond  of 
hunting  this  animal,  and  that  a  pair  of  them,  carved  out  of 
stone,  stand  before  and  guard  the  entrance  to  his  shrine,  in 
place  of  the  customary  Dogs  of  Fo.  The  portrait  on  the  face 
of  the  lOO-yen  note  is  of  Fujiwara  Kamatariy  wfth  his  favorite 
temple  ( Tamv/^o-^mine)  in  Yamato.  An  illustration  of  the  Bank 
of  Japan  is  shown  on  the  reverse.  The  notes  of  small  denomina- 
tions are  the  most  convenient  to  carry  and  use  in  the  interior  of 
Japan,  as  change  for  a  lOO-yen  bill  is  not  always  to  be  had. 

The  regulation  fineness  of  the  coins  is:  Gold,  900  parts  with 
100  of  copper;  silver,  800  and  200;  nickel,  750  with  260  of  cop- 
per; copper,  950  with  40  parts  of  tin  and  10  of  zinc.  The  new 
20-  and  50-sew  pieces  are  considerably  smaller  than  the  earlier 
coins  they  are  gradually  replacing.  The  gold  coins  carry 
wreaths  and  crests  of  the  imperial  chrysanthemum  and  the 
Paidovmia  imperialism  with  the  date,  the  words  Dai  Nippon 
(Great  Japan),  and  the  rising  sun.  The  mythological  dragon 
is  disappearing  from  the  national  coins.  A^ile  American  and 
Enelish  money  will  be  received  in  many  of  the  Japanese  hotels 
and  business  houses,  very  little  foreign  money  of  any  kind  is 
found  circulating  in  Japan.  The  traveler  has  to  be  on  his  guard 
chiefly  against  counterfeits.  Perforated  money  is  rarely  met 
with,  as  coins  have  never  been  used  as  ornaments  in  Japan. 
Any  public  display  of  money  should  be  avoided,  as  pickpockets, 
though  not  numerous,  are  extraordinarily  skillful. 

Prior  to  A.D.  708  the  coined  money  used  in  Japan  came  from  China,  whence 
also  came  the  idea  of  a  mint  for  making  it.  Silver  was  discovered  in  Tau- 
ihima  in  a.d.  674,  but  it  was  not  until  during  the  Wado  era  (708-715)  that 
copi>er  was  found  in  the  Chichihu  Ran^e  in  Mtiaashi,  and  Japan  established 
(in  the  Province  of  Omi)  her  first  mint  and  struck  her  first  coins.  The 
toketis  were  chiefly  of  copper,  for  although  an  issue  of  silver  and  of  gold 
coins  was  made  in  760,  the  idea  of  monometalism  pleased  the  people,  and 
copper  became  the  current  coin  of  the  realm.  In  the  early  days  when  a  mer- 
chant acquired  gold  or  silver  bullion  he  usually  followed  the  ancient  Chinera 
custom  of  cutting  it  into  parallelograms  of  the  reauired  siae  and  paying  it 
out  by^  weight.  Later,  considerable  quantities  of  these  metals  were  sent  to 
Obina  in  excbtmge  for  Cbineae  copper  tokens  for  which  a  national  demand 


EXCHANGE  xxi 

existed  — -  for  the  easting  of  idols  and  other  temple  ornaments.  At  first  the 
ratio  between  silver  and  copper  was  1  to  4;  later  it  was  fixed  at  1  to  25,  and 
finally  1  to  10.  Between  760  and  958  other  mints  were  established  at 
Harinuit  Nagaio,  and  Dcuaifu,  and  from  these  and  the  original  Omi  mint  11 
new  sets  of  coins  were  issued.  Counterfeiters  became  so  plentiful  and  so 
b(M  tliat  those  convicted  were  enslaved  or  beheaded,  while  accessories  to 
the  crime  were  made  ^ov't  slaves.  In  958,  Buddhistic  seal  made  it  impos- 
nble  for  Japan  to  maintain  her  metallic  currency.  As  the  mints  were  small 
affairs  which  did  not  absorb  more  than  20  tons  of  copper  a  year,  and  as  the 
rage  for  temple  bells  and  idols  grew  at  such  a  pace  that  every  ounce  of  cop- 
per obtainable  was  used  in  making  them,  the  gov't  mints  closed  and  did 
not  opemto  again  for  6  centuries,  or  during  the  time  of  Hideyoahi  in  1587. 
Theax  closure  was  hastened  by  the  gov't  device  of  debasing  the  coinage, 
which  soon  became  almost  as  worthless  as  inflated  pai>er  money.  The 
Dutch  txuders  withdrew  an  immense  amount  of  gold,  silver,  and  copper 
frc«n  the  country,  and  it  is  said  that  in  the  16th  and  17th  centuries  the 
value  of  this  amounted  to  £9,500,000. 

'  In  tiie  last  quarter  of  the  16th  cent,  a  wholly  new  departure  was  made 
under  tiie  auspices  of  the  Taikd  —  that  great  captain,  administrator,  poli- 
tician, statesman,  and  art  patron,  whose  influence  for  progress  was  felt  in 
almost  every  region  of  Japan's  national  existence.  At  the  mint  founded  by 
him,  and  placed  under  the  direction  of  the  Goto  family  (the  greatest  workers 
in  noetal  Japan  ever  possessed),  a  coin  was  struck  magnificent  in  dimen- 
dons  and  entirely  original  in  design.  The  easiest  way  to  conceive  it  is  to 
suppose  16  guineas  beaten  into  an  oval  plate,  its  surface  hammered  in  wave 
pattern  and  having  the  superscription,  "ten  ryo"  boldly  written  in  black 
ink.  It  was  certainly  a  very  remarkable  transition  from  a  little  copper 
token,  not  an  inch  in  diameter  and  worth  only  a  fraction  of  a  farthing,  to  a 
dab  of  gdd  as  large  as  a  man's  open  hand  and  worth  16  guineas.  This 
Oban  {or  large  plate)  contained  about  68  per  cent  of  gold  and  29  per  cent  of 
silver.  Owing  to  the  large  percentage  of  silver,  its  surface  had  a  pale,  silvery 
cast,  and  to  give  it  the  appearance  of  pure  gold  the  mint,  rather  than  go  to 
the  added  expense  of  gilding  it,  dissolved  the  silver  from  the  surface  layers. 
Other  gold  coins  were  also  struck,  —  a  5-ryo  piece,  a  1-ryo  and  a:\-ri/o  piece, 
—  and  there  were  also  silver  coins  somewhat  similar  in  shape  and  design, 
though  of  smaller  dimensions.' 

Paper  money  became  popular  about  the  middle  of  the  17th  cent.,  and 
soon  tiiereafter  upward  of  1700  varieties  of  notes  were  circulating  in  the 
various  districts.  There  were  gold,  silver,  rice,  and  a  long  list  of  notes  re- 
deemable in  as  many  articles,  the  circulation  of  each  kind  bcinK  liinitod  to 
the  confines  of  the  issuing  fiefs.  Many  are  still  in  existence  and  thoy  occupy 
in  Japan  much  the  same  ptosition  that  Confederate  money  does  in  the  United 
States.  The  currency  system  established  at  the  beginning  of  the  Meiji  ora 
was  based  on  the  gold  standard,  with  the  gold  yen  as  the  unit.  The  first 
modem  mint  was  establ^hed  (under  British  auspices)  at  Osaka  in  1871,  and 
it  has  been  oi>erating  ever  since.    The  cmployons  now  arc  Japanese. 

Numismatists  will  be  interested  in  the  handsome  ryo  pieces,  and  in  the 
various  little  iron,  copper,  bronze,  and  silver  coins  issued  prior  to  1870. 
These  with  the  paper  money  of  earlier  times  are  oft<»n  to  be  found  in  the 
curio-stores,  framed  in  groups  purporting  to  be  complete  collections,  with 
historical  data  referring  to  the  issues.  Buyers  should  be  sure  that  the  ryo 
pieces  are  up  to  the  standard  of  weight  and  fineness. 

Exchange.  The  variations  in  the  exchange  between  Japanese 
and  foreign  monies  is  slight,  —  depending  upon  the  demand 
and  market  quotations,  —  but  even  small  differences  amount 
to  considerable  in  large  transactions,  and  before  putting  such 
through,  the  traveler  is  advised  to  consult  some  business  friend 
familiar  with  the  idiosyncracies  of  the  money  market,  or  to 
scan  the  daily  quotations  (under  '  Exchange  )  in  the  news- 
papers. If  the  London  price  of  bar  silver  shows  even  a  m\T\\\le 
&fference,  the  exchange  rate  is  apt  to  operate  in  sympat^^f 


xxii  EXCHANGE 

with  it.  When  tibe  quotations  are  disadvantageous,  the  fo»- 
veler  should  hold  off  for  a  few  days  until  the  market  regains  itp 
normal  tone.  For  the  checks,  circular  notes,  and  letters  of 
credit  mentioned  under  Money,  the  exchange  at  sight  is  usually 
about  2  yen  for  1  American  dollar;  English  money  being  a 
trifle  less  owing  to  the  inherent  difference  in  value.  If  the  holaer 
of  such  symbols  has  business  friends  in  Japan  with  financial 
obligations  to  meet  in  Europe  or  America,  he  can  often  make  a 
more  advantageous  deal  with  them  than  with  the  foreign 
banks  —  both  parties  to  the  transaction  saving  a  trifle  in  the 
form  of  commissions.  The  difference  between  the  buying  and 
selling  rates  of  exchange  is  a  potent  factor  in  the  large  divi- 
dends which  the  foreign  banks  are  usually  enabled  to  pay, 
and  as  these  petty  '  squeezes '  cannot  always  be  dodged,  it 
behooves  the  traveler  to  sell  his  drafts,  etc.,  to  the  hi^est 
bidder.  He  will  therefore  wish  to  remember  that  certain  of  the 
large  native  institutions  (whose  trustworthiness  is  beyond  aU 
question),  with  branches  in  the  chief  cities  of  the  world,  often- 
tmies  work  on  closer  margins  than  the  foreigners.  The  Yoko^ 
hama  Specie  Bankj  Ltd.j  has  a  branch  at  London,  and  the 
traveler,  with  Japanese  money  which  he  wishes  to  deposit  in 
Japan  in  exchange  for  an  order  which  he  can  cash  at  sight  in 
London,  can  sometimes  effect  a  saving  by  selling  it  to  them. 
If,  for  example,  a  draft  for  £150  is  wanted  and  the  foreien  bank 
quotes  exchange  at  the  rate  of  2s.  Z-Sd.  (which  would  mean 
yen  1476.^2)  against  the  offer  of  the  Japanese  bank  of  28. 
7-16d.  (yen  1473.14)  a  saving  of  yen  3.78  would  be  effected 
(yen  2.60  on  £100;  yen  1.26  on  £50;  and  51  sen  on  £20).  It 
should  be  remembered  that  a  better  price  can  usually  be  ob- 
tained for  foreign  money  in  Japan  than  for  Japanese  money 
in  a  foreign  country. 

The  market  for  cash  money  is  capricious,  depending  usually 
upon  the  supply  and  demand,  or  the  whim  of  the  money- 
changer. Although  the  yen  is  quoted  officially  as  worth  a  trifle 
less  ($0.4935)  than  50  cents  U.S.  money,  foreign  banks  often 
persist  in  throwing  the  exchange  the  other  way  and  giving  a 
little  less  than  double  (say  IS^  yen  for  $100)  for  American 
currency,  and  still  less  for  silver  coins  —  which  are  supposed 
to  be  costly  to  transport.  Gold  coins  find  a  ready  sale  in  T6k^0 
and  will  usually  bring  double  their  face  value.  The  best  pnce 
for  gold  can  generallv  be  obtained  from  the  Chinese  money- 
changers, who  will  take  a  small  profit  if  they  cannot  get  a  large 
one.  A  saving  of  1  per  cent  can  often  be  made  by  shopping 
about  until  the  best  offer  is  found.  When  one  wishes  to  ouy 
foreign  money,  its  value  is  suddenly  enhanced,  the  exchange 
going  the  other  way  and  always  to  the  profit  of  the  broker. 
The  difference  in  the  value  of  gold,  currency,  and  fractional 
silver  is  also  made  light  of  or  lost  sipht  of,  all  being  quoted  at 
tJie  highest  rate.   Buyers  of  Russian  money  may  wish  to 


tbo  tiBQlM&88 18  sonnal  eertflfan  jbroloen 
oMffl  106t«»».for  100  itnibla^  vviuls  0^ 
vBtakalMipni.  Anov^^beMecnleca&beaecuredinSeoiil 
(KorinA).  CliMiWii  fmclioiml  cttnenoy  shottld  be  acoq;>ted  with 
fljtftfwy  1  itk  ofatt:  tftccmated  heavily.  Befote  buyiii^  ex* 
ehaaBB^n  GhiM^  eaasuh  some  friend  familiar  with  local  con* 
dMonie  in-tfak  caae  ako  the  native  banks  will  often  qaote 
better  raiee  than  the  foreign  onea. 

The  toBftder  who  expects  to  remain  in  Japan  for  any  length 
cf  tiaa»eatteatiiiBtefest  (usually  2  per  cent  on  dally  oalanoes 
abeverflOO  feii)  on  Us  qpaie  money  by  opening  a  current  ao- 
eovift  with eaeef  the  banks,  and  dieeking  against  it  as  he  needs 
iL  It  ilMnld  be  lemembered,  however,  that  this  interest  is 
added  to  the  aeeomt  at  the  eod  of  6  months,  and  if  the  ao- 
eem^  is  dnaini  down  before,  and  the  interest  is  not  called  for, 
it  wamw  be  overiooked.  A  materiaUy.  better  rate  can  be  ob- 
tained by  means  of -l^aie  Dq;»osits,'f(Hr  dor  12  mmitiMi.  Tlie 
nate  flnctnatei^  but  the  foreign  banks  usually  pay  3i  to  4  per 
9&Bttf  xeepeelivelyf  and  the  native  banks  4  to  o  per  cent* 

The  SzGBavoQi  Bbokmbb  aHeaa.  seen  speeding  about  the 
fonigii  wttJemwits  of  the  sometime  treaty  ports^  in  jinrikis 
dsmii  by  3  to  3  fleet  coolies^  act  as  go-betwieens  wiith  the  mer- 
elHBrti  Hid  the  banks. 

SzcBAKGB  Tablbs,  in  handy  book  form,  showing  the  value 
ef  VJEULf  Enjjiiiih,  and  other  monios  at  the  various  rates  of 
exchange,  may  be  had  of  local  book  dealers. 

Banks  (OitM)  where  Travelers'  Checks,  Circular  Notes, 
Letters  of  Credit,  etc.,  can  be  cashed  (see  Exchange)  are  es- 
tdi>liflfaed  in  all  the  large  port  cities  of  the  Pacific.  Iq  planning 
Joturneys  the  traveler  will  do  well  to  scan  the  newspapers  for 
advernsements  of  the  numerous  bank  hoUda3rs.  llie  Yoko" 
hama  Spjscie  Bankf  lAd, ;  the  Bank  of  Japan  ;  Mitsid  Ginkd ; 
Dai  Idii  Qinkd,  and  others  among  the  Japanese  banks  rank 
on  a  par  with  the  f ordgn  institutions  and  poesesfs  the  advantage 
of  temdies  in  the  interior  and  .remote  cities  where  foreign 
banks  are  not  represented.  The  best  known  among  these  are 
the  Chartered  Bank  qf  India,  AvMraUa,  and  China  (English); 
IfUemaHmal  Banting  Corporation  (American);  Deutsch- 
AaiaUsihe  Bank  (German);  nonkgong  &  Shanghai  Banking 
Co,  (China),  etc.  Tourists  may  like  to  remember  that  although 
no  SBU^  part  of  ihe  large  annual  profits  of  the  foreign  banks 
are  derived  from  the  exchange  on  the  many  drafts,  etc.,  pre- 
sented by  the  armv  of  travders  who  visit  Japan,  some  profess 
not  to  care  for  the  business,  and  treat  small  financial  deals  with 
aBaat4XNirte8y.  On  the  ower  hand,  the  Japanese  banks^  Tour- 
■"■"HieB,  etc.,  cater  for  the  business  and  often  make  it  more 
Seous  for  the  tniFeler  to  dea/ with  them.  (SosMoae^.^ 


ixiv  CUSTOM-HOUSE 

'  Passports  (kittet  iegata)  are  unnecessary  in  Jat)an.  They  are 
Sometimes  useful,  particularly  in  official  circles,  when  the  tra^ 
veler  wishes  to  establish  his  iaentity.  Englishmen  may  secure 
them  (cost  2  shillings)  from  the  Passport  Department  of  the 
Forei^  Office,  at  London;  Americans  must  apply  (cost  $2)  to 
the  Bureau  of  Citizenship,  State  Department,  Washington, 
D.C.  They  can  be  secured  at  the  American  Embassy  at 
Tokyo,  or  the  Consulate  General  at  Yokohama,  at  a  cost  of 
¥4.02.  If  a  regular  passport  is  required,  from  2  to  3  months 
must  elapse  before  it  can  come  from  Washington;  otherwi^ 
the  traveler  is  supplied  with  an  Emergency  Passport,  applsdnjg 
(6  months'  limit)  to  the  countries  which  ne  specifically  signi- 
fies his  desire  to  travel  tiu^ugh.  A  single  document,  properly 
visaed,  serves  for  a  man  and  his  family.  Passports  are  requi- 
site for  Siberia  and  Russia;  without  them  travelers  will  be 
turned  back  at  the  frontier.  They  must  have  thevis6  of  a 
Russian  Consul;  cost  in  Yokohama,  ¥2.36. 

The  Ixnperial  Japanese  Custom-House  (Zeikwan)  has 
branches  (English  spoken)  at  all  ports  of  entry.  The  formali- 
ties are  never  to  be  dreaded.  Duties  on  many  imported  articles 
are  hi^,  but  incoming  travelers  are  welcomed  and  are  allowed 
an  unusually  hberal  amount  of  baggage.  All  the  articles  neces- 
sary to  a  long  sea  voyage  are  passed  free,  and  each  traveler 
may  bring  with  him  a  camera,  a  typewriter,  steamer-chairs, 
books,  manuscripts,  docmnents,  tools,  and  instruments  of 
professional  necessity  in  so  far  as  they  correspond  to  the  social 
or  commercial  status  of  the  owner,  samples  of  merchandise 
only  fit  to  be  used  as  such,  etc.  (See  Automobiles.)  The  offi- 
cials are  courteous  and  lenient,  and  neither  accept  nor  expect 
fees.  One's  belongings  are  inspected  rather  than  examined,  and 
are  never  dumped  out,  rummaged,  or  crumpled  to  facilitate  a 
rigid  overhauling.  Tobacco  ana  cigars  are  sought  (50  cigars  or 
cigarettes  free)  and  the  traveler  is  asked  if  he  has  any.  Any 
attempt  to  smuggle  opium  or  the  utensils  for  smoking  it 
(strictly  forbidden  entrance  to  the  country)  may  provoke  seri- 
ous trouble.  Personal  effects  and  furniture  of  foreigners 
coining  to  reside  in  Japan  are  admitted  free  of  duty  if  they 
have  been  used  and  are  not  for  sale.  While  it  is  usually  wise  to 
superintend  personally  the  inspection  of  one's  belongings  in 
transit  through  the  custom-house,  the  runners  for  the  best- 
known  hotels  are  trustworthy,  and  often  are  able  to  attend  to 
such  matters  more  expeditiously  and  satisfactorily  than  the 
traveler  himself.  Courtesy  on  the  part  of  the  stranger  is  a 
valuable  asset  in  custom-house  transactions. 

Commercial  Travelers  are  not  taxed  in  Japan,  and  they  can 

have  the  import  duties  on  samples  used  for  the  purpose  of 

collecting  orders  refunded  upon  reexportation,  if  they  will 

make  their  noshes  known  at  ,the  port  of  entry  at  the  time  of  en- 


'  CX)MHERGIiUi  TBAVEtERS 

nflHfCKd  Eoods.  Samples,  which  owing  to  their  n&Minwuuii 
beoraly  ideDtified,  must  be  marked  Id  .wmc  way.  CnuliDiiii 
necesBary  in  declaring  firearms,  as  a,  special  permit  it  re^uirad 
before  a  Japanese  can  own  one,  and  a  revolver  found  in  the 
pOBSEssian  of  a  person  without  a  permit  might  lead  to  Umrtpaff- 
mt  inveatigatioDS.  When  an  appreciable  quantity^  mtoer- 
dkandiae  is  imported,  one  unaequamted  with  the  inbioaclv  of 
tile  new  tariff  tnay  effect  a  considerable  saving  ia  duties  t^ 
baring  the  gooda  passed  in  by  a  reputable  shipping  bn^w; 
hj  procuring  a  copy  of  the  latest  (English)  edition  m  the  bn- 
port  Tariff  of  Japan  with  the  customs  lawa  and  lepulationa 
jmst  about  2  yen  at  any  bookstore) ;  or  by  eonsulting  soroe 
Dosiness  friend  before  making  the  declaration.  _^ere  azo 
preferential  duties  (aubjoct  to  change),  and  by  having  a  CmU- 
fisate  of  Origin  accompany  imports  one  may,  lOOTided  ho 
I  knows  something  of  the  privileges  granted  to  ttie  qiedaUy 
.  &TDred  contracting  Powera,  eave  a  third  or  more  of  tlioduUes 
'  messed.  Many  articles  pay  duty  according  to  weight;  otbm 
>K  aeaeseed  ad  valorem.  . 

. '  As  an  aid  to  commercial  travelers  small  lists  of  the  ohM 
ilmport  commission  houses  will  be  found  under  the  Tok 


a  Kobe  headings.  Much  of  the  import  (and  export)  b^ — „ 

■' — e  jQffpi^h,cmnnii8MaD  houses,  wliich  act  as  intomedi- 

ir  shipper  and  th<3  conauniw. 

s  demand  loajj-timf 

_  „ , ._-^  o J  proce- 

dtm,  thnetoe,  ia  to  quote  toe  lowest  caah  prices  (f  .o.b.  factory 
V  aeaport)  to  Ote  leeident  ocMnmisdon  merchant,  ^d  display 
Mm^es  in  Ub  showtuoiu.  The  latter  draws  up-  a  'wo-forma 
Vroux,  whieh  indudes  ooat,  frraght,  inmiranoe,  cu^toina  duties, 
etc.,  aada  taa  conunisHon,  and  aKreee  on  the  iH-.ce8  which  he 
wiU  quote  to  the  trade,  eitlier  with  cost,  insurance,  and  freight 
{tetmed  'CHf '  prices),  delivered  at  the  custom-houae  quay,  or 
m  the  buyer's  waierocHn.  The  hnp(»t«r  agrees  to  pay  for  tlie 
■»ds  tbroiif^  ft  draft  on  the  bank  at  30,  60,  or  90  days  (after 
ttHjr  axe  ahinwd),  and  often  ^lows  his  customer  from  3  to  6 
■iKiths  (covered  by  notes  or  contra<rta)  in  which  to  pay  for 
thsn.  The  tzaveler  then  oalle  on  the  merchants,  accompanied 
W.KB  Bndish-epeaking  jMtaneae  hanio  (salesman),  who  quotes 
tOB  laid-down  prices  and  invitefl  the  prospective  buyer  to 
mqiect  liie  aanqilee.  Bufdness  ia  usually  done  on  a  2}  or  5  per 
ggnt  UH^n.  If  there  is  &  cash  discount  of  2  to  6  per  cent,  this 
b  aometinteB  sidit  witli  the  customer.  Certun  of  the  native 
flruM  ore  wealthy  and  trustworthy.  The  Japanese  are  ke^i 
DOHMaB  men,  Init  they  oonduot  their  operations  with  a  decree 
wnesB  wnioh  recks  not  of  the  value  of  time;  and  they  will 
-juried.  Tl*  Tidous  and  ioialeadin^  atatemeat  tbtil  aW 
iuMtmbuidv  rnre  dkboaeat  a  ae  uigust  aa  it  ia  \uitnie> 


GUIDES 

There  is  no  lack  of  graceless  rascals  among  the  Japanese,  but 
the  proportion  of  honest  men  is  apparently  about  the  same  as 
that  of  any  other  civitized  country. 

The  Abacus,  or  sorohan  (Chinese:  awanpan,  or  'coimting- 
board') ,  is  used  largely  in  arithmetical  calculations  by  Japanese. 
With  this  early  Phenician  or  Grecian  instrument,  the  solu- 
tion of  intricate  problems  in  foreign  exchange,  and  other  propo- 
sitions are  found  quickly  and  ingeniously.  The  commercial 
traveler  will  find  it  to  his  interest  to  learn  the  operation  of  it,  as 
a  knowledge  of  how  to  read  it  only  is  useful  at  times.  The 
sorohan  is  a  shallow  case  or  frame  of  various  lengths  and 
widths,  crossed  longitudinally  by  a  bar  which  divides  it  into 
two  unequal  compartments.  These  are  crossed  vertically  by 
(usually  13)  wires  or  bamboo  rods,  with  1  ball  (2  in  the  Chmese 
instrument)  on  each  stick  above  the  transversal  bar,  and  5 
below.  The  upper  bead  stands  for  5  units,  and  each  of  the 
lower  ones  for  1  unit,  so  that  there  are  10  units  on  eadb  stick. 
When  the  balls  on  any  rod  are  taken  for  units,  those  next  to  the 
right  stand  for  tens,  the  third  for  hundreds,  and  so  on.  Simple 
cmculations  in  addition  and  subtraction  are  done  on  una 
machine  with  accuracy  and  speed,  but  if  an  error  be  made  the 
whole  must  be  performed  again,  since  the  result  appears  only 
when  the  sum  is  finished. 

Guides  (Annawiin;  sendachi;  but  better  known  as  *  guides') 
can  be  hired  at  almost  any  of  the  hotels  or  Tourist  Agencies,  — 
the  latter  making  it  a  part  of  their  business  to  supply  them. 
There  are  numerous  Guide  Associations,  or  Guilds,  the  mem- 
bers of  which  speak  English  and  Japanese  (sometimes  a  httle 
French).  Their  pay  is  4  yen  a  day  for  1  or  2  persons  (50  sen 
additional  per  person  when  there  are  more  than  2  in  a  party), 
besides  rly.  fare  (2d  or  3d  cl.)  and  jinriki  hire.  They  are  sup- 
posed to  provide  their  own  food :  as  a  rule  they  prefer  riding  to 
walking.  Some  are  honest,  and  in  certain  cases  are  useful; 
others  are  incompetent  and  are  noteworthy  for  their  unblush- 
ing ignorance  of  the  history  and  ancient  customs  of  their  own 
people,  for  the  inaccuracy  of  the  information  supplied  to  their 
employers,  for  an  ingrained  and  exasperating  tendency  to 
overpay  and  Hip'  their  nationals  at  tneir  patron's  expense 
(thereby  acquiring  if  not  a  direct  conmiission,  at  least  a  re- 
flected glory),  and  for  an  apparently  ineradicable  propensity  to 
collect  a  *  squeeze'  on  everything  bought  through  them  or  at 
shops  where  they  act  as  interpreters.  Some  are  guilty  of  black- 
listing reputable  shops,  hotels,  and  resorts  where  a  percentage 
c^  their  master's  bill  is  not  paid  over  to  them,  and,  by  belittling 
them,  induce  their  patrons  to  go  to  places  where  commiseions 
can  be  counted  upon.  For  unless  proprietors  accede  to  the 
demands,  and  overcharge  patrons  for  the  benefit  of  the  guide, 
guesta  and  cuatomera  are  tak^i  elsewhere.  This  corrupt  prao- 


GUIDES  xxvii 

tiee  hafl  become  so  intolerable  that  certain  hotel-keepers, 
trudesmen,  and  goyemment  officials  are  leagued  in  an  effort  to 
abate  the  nuisance.  Correct  values  of  Japanese  curios  are  so 
fittle  undefBtood  by  many  strangers  that  dishonest  guides  have 
been  known  to  induce  their  employers  to  pay  absurd  prices  for 
alleged  works  of  art  and  pocket  half  the  excess  over  and  above 
the  right  price.  Because  of  this  predatory  habit  many  of  the 
best  cfealers  will  not  permit  certain  guides  on  their  premises. 
In  other  places  prices  go  up  at  sight  of  them,  to  the  disadvant- 
ue  of  purdbasers.  As  a  rule  no  confidence  should  be  placed  in 
t£e  guide's  judgment  of  antiques,  and  even  less  in  his  criticism 
of  t^  contents  of  this  Guidebook.  It  may  be  accepted  as  a  safe 
axiom  that  the  majority  of  guides  occupy  a  low  place  in  the 
esteem  of  cultivated  Japanese,  a  fact  which  travelers  will  do 
wdl  to  bear  in  mind  in  cases  where  an  interpreter  is  needed  on 
ddicate  missions  or  at  interviews  with  prominent  men.  Intel- 
figent,  bi-Iingual  Japanese  can  always  be  obtained  for  such 
services.  (Comp.  p.  cxvi.) 

So  prevalent  is  the  (erroneous)  idea  that  Japan  is  a  difficult 
ootmtiry  to  travel  in  that  some  timid  persons  employ  guides  at 
4  yen  a  day  to  conduct  them  about  the  streets  of  Yokohama 
aiid  T0ky5,  and  to  go  with  them  to  such  well-known  places  as 
NikkO,  Kybto,  Kobe,  etc.  In  all  of  these,  English  is  widely 
spoken,  and  all  the  best  hotels  have  information  bureaus  con- 
ducted by  helpful  men  who  can  supply  a  local  English-speaking 
puide  at  a  moment's  notice.  At  some  of  the  hotels  in  the 
interior  the  alert  management  supplies  guides  free  or  at  a  small 
cost.  Others  have  trained  the  local  coolies  into  a  combination 
of  efficient  guide  and  porter  willing  to  walk  all  day  and  carry  a 
50-lb.  load  beside,  for  yen  1.50  or  thereabouts.  They  are  more 
familiar  with  local  conditions  than  guides  brought  (at  an  ex- 
pense of  salary  and  rly.  fare)  from  a  distance,  and  unlike  the  . 
latter  are  not  averse  to  making  pack-horses  of  themselves. 
Certain  TOkyO  students  fond  of  adventure  spend  their  summer 
vacation  at  popular  resorts  in  the  interior  of  the  country,  and 
earn  a  little  money  as  waiters  in  the  hotels,  as  guides,  and  in 
otho'  capacities.  As  a  rule  they  are  guileless,  optimistic,  cheer- 
ful, and  mtelligent,  and  they  make  thoroughly  enjoyable  com- 
panions on  long  tramps.  At  other  places  alert  bo3rs  eager  to 
earn  a  jfen  and  to  show  beauty  spots  to  travelers  will  be  found. 
The  rising  generation  is  so  eager  to  learn  English  that  likable, 
Iffigjit-facea  country  lads  sometimes  attach  themselves  to 
strangers  and  act  as  self-constituted  guides  merely  for  the 
pleasure  derived  from  showing  the  local  sights  to  appreciative 
persons  and  for  the  English  practice  they  get.  They  oiten  re- 

fnsefeeff,  and,  when  made  to  take  them,  do  so  reluctantW  and 
etamefacedlv.  ^ 

/aes/ocomotron  aa  well.  While  mteWigent 


;«viii  GUIDES 

and  trustworthy  guides  are  unquestionably  useful  to  strangers 
undertaking  long  trips  in  the  interior,  —  particularly  to  those 
unacquainted  with  the  language  or  customs  of  the  country,  — 
almost  any  self-reliant,  amiable,  and  adaptable  person  with  no 
more  knowledge  of  the  vernacular  than  he  can  extract  from  a 
good  pocket  phrasebook  can,  with  this  Guidebook,  travel 
unattended  and  with  perfect  safety  to  any  place  in  the  Mikar 
do's  realm,  and  not  fail  to  get  the  information  he  seeks.  By 
traveling  thus  on  his  own  resources  he  will  gain  a  knowledge  of 
the  people  and  local  conditions  that  he  would  not  otherwise 
adciuire;  not  to  mention  the  saving  of  from  6  to  10  yen  a  day  m 
guide  hire  and  unnecessary  fees.  It  is  usually  under  such  cir- 
cumstances that  the  traveler  gets  an  inkling  of  the  truer  and 
better  nature  of  the  Japanese;  each  one  of  whom,  at  sight  of  a 
solitary  stranger,  seems  possessed  of  a  genuine,  ungrudging, 
and  entirely  unselfish  desire  to  help  him  on  his  way.  It  thus 
happens  that  such  a  one  often  gets  better  treatment  than  he 
expects,  and  is  rarelv  at  a  loss  for  some  one  to  help  him  out  of 
difficulties  —  if  sli^t  temporary  inconveniences  can  be  so 
classed.  Women  traveling  alone  might  not  find  the  conditions 
so  satisfying. 

The  custom  of  certain  foreigners  of  giving  their  guides  ample 
funds  in  advance  to  pay  current  expenses  is  almost  as  incom- 
prehensible to  foreign  residents  as  the  equally  reprehensible 
one  of  treating  them  as  eciuals  (rather  than  as  servants);  of 
dining  with  them;  accepting  their  advice  where  to  go,  etc. 
Such  demonstrations  of  equality  amaze  thoughtful  Japanese, 
and  often  cause  them  to  alter  their  opinion  of  the  foreigner's 
standing.  The  traveler  should  study  the  Guidebook,  make  up 
his  mind  where  he  wishes  to  go  and  what  he  wants  to  see,  then 
instruct  his  courier  accordingly.  Remonstrances  should  be 
discountenanced,  and  all  impertinence  checked  at  the  outset. 
Should  the  guide  ask  for  a  testimonial  on  the  termination  of  hif 
agreement,  this  should,  in  justice  to  other  travelers,  be  truthful 
and  moderate,  else  a  deceitful  rascal  may  be  confirmed  in  his 
faults.  The  traveler  should  never  go  where  a  guide  insists  upon 
taking  him,  nor  should  he  accept  his  advice  as  to  the  right 
prices  to  be  paid  at  tea-houses,  etc.  The  old  custom  of  expect- 
ing the  provident  to  pay  for  the  shortcomings  of  the  improvi- 
dent is  deeply  rooted  in  the  Japanese  mind.  All  Occidentals 
are  supposed  to  be  wealthy,  and  able  and  willing  to  pay  con- 
siderably more  for  a  service  or  an  article  than  would  a  poor 
native.  The  observant  stranger  will  have  this  curious  habit 
brought  sharply  to  his  notice  frequently  while  traveling  in 
Japan.  In  some  places  foreigners  are  charged  five  or  six  times 
as  much  as  a  native  would  be,  in  the  belief  that  they  neither 
know  nor  care.  Travelers  to  rural  Japan  and  to  places  off  the 
beaten  track  of  travel  are  frequently  astonished  at  the  low 
prJces  charged  in  shops  or  inns,  where  no  distinction  is  made 


i  detwpen  toKignere  and  natives.  Thoy  art  abo  1 
prised  al  the  Wfty  pricea  risp  after  a  fonjgn  fc 
jaakA  by  i  courier  has  parsed  that  waf.  Befon 
man  For  an  important  journey,  consult  the  liotd 
leam  if  the  euidc'a  robuat  imafdnatioti  19  KCOnipBiueu  uy  lacca. 
The  latMf  should  also  be  questioned  shrewdly  as  to  bia  knowl- 
edgeoflteplaces  tobevisitnd.  A  good  icmeral  rule  is  to  i^floe 
but  nuM  credence  in  his  windy  pitfaseology  or  in  the  authen- 
iidt!  of  tus  information.  One  can  always  rid  one's  adf  of  the 
miFelMme  attention  of  a  self-conBtitutad  pitde  by  a  threat  to 
ippesJ  tfl  the  police.  —  It  remains  to  be  eud  that  the  aim  of 
tb«imfer  is  to  help  the  ecoQomieally-inclHied  tourist  to  travel 
H  cheaply  as  possible  in  a  country  which  n  all  too  rai^dly 
Mfuiring  a  reputation  for  high  prii'ca.  Deeoriptioiis  of  oertain 
^doMB  have  been  detailed  bo  that  ^frangers  may  have  no 
difficulty  in  visiting  and  understaniiitig  them. 

C.  Hotels.  Inns.  Tea-Houses  and  Reslaiiranta.  JapaneH  Pood. 
Houses.  Furnished  Houses.  Ttpt.  LawidiT. 
Hotels  IhoUm).  The  standard  of  excellence  of  the  hotels  ot 
Japan  ia  riaing  steadily,  and  the  best  eHtablishmenta  now  com- 
pare favorably  with  similar  high-nlaas  i^aces  in  Europe  and 
America.  It  ia  the  aim  of  the  Hotel  Asaoirialjon  —  to  which 
many  of  the  hotelmen  belong  —  tii  make  the  hotels  of  the 
Empire  moT«  and  more  comfortable  for,  and  acoeptable  to, 
foreign  travelera:  and  the  attractive  hostebiea  of  fokohamn, 
Tokyo,  Kobe,  Kyoto,  ,ind  Nura —  all  managed  by  forugners 
or  by  Eoglish-Bpeaking  Japanese  who  have  livecf  abroad,  — 
usually  surprise  tourists  by  their  modem  e<^^ipment  and  com- 
fort. Certain  of  them  are  peeuliarlv  pleasing  to  the  man  of 
taste,  as  they  suggest  the  tranquiltity  and  cheer  of  the  old 
tavema  of  Colonic  times.  There  are  at  present  200  hotels  in 
the  Empire,  with  S.'JOO  rooms  sind  lorlgings  for  5000  persona, 
and  tlie  number  grows  steadily.  The  aim  of  the  hotel-keeper  is 
to  pronde  (food  food  and  comfort  rather  than  architectural 
tffgaidar.  eEeosmolt^cal  and  climatic  considerations  have 
menaanb  entered  larsely  into  the  construction  of  the  present- 
Slj  hotw,  and  tiie  a)menoe  of  that  exag^rated  and  useless 
IniaiT  nmr  audi  a  pronounced  charactenstic  of  some  Occi- 
deatu  botds,  ii  of  direct  advant^e  to  the  traveler  of  modest 
■MDB,  once  be  is  not  rapected  to  pay  heavily  for  somethiuK 
iHtiA  he  can  natber  eat  nor  cany  away  with  him.  The  stand- 
iirdB  of  (deanli&es,  punctuality,  tmatworthinesa,  personal 
~" — ■* —  *"  TMttB,  tatA  an  ever-present  eagerness  to  make 
■T  ooim<^t«>le,  are  higher  than  those  of  many  Euro- 
Itds.  In  Ja[>ait  the  manager  meets,  knows,  and  looks 
nrj  one  of  iaa  gnsets;  and  by  so  doing,  makes  each  one 
1  at  hmne  tluii  at  iRvsent  seems  possible  in  other 
>"  Vhat.MOW  of  ttaa  batelM  Iselc  is  arcfaiteotuial  imp 


jxx  HOTEL  RATES  . 

portance,  is  uounLerbalancat  by  exquisite  views  t^^^^^^f^ 
mountain,  obtainable  from  the  windows  and  the  ev^^^^^-^** 
balconies.  To  the  average  traveler  these  are  more  ple*^^^^  <5r 
massive  onyx  hallways  (which  might  conie  down  w'tB^^^^^^ 
effect  during  an  earthquake)  and  red  plush  fittiUKS,  T^^^^j^' 
are  more  in  evidence  than  elevators,  but  as  few  of  t>-^^^/*_ 
are  more  than  2-3  storieB,  the  lack  of  the  latt<ir ''«  mt  f^^_.  -'* 
It  is  to  the  credit  of  hotelmen  generally  thruu. 


L 


p__j  (and  menials)  of  alleged  fire t-clasB  hotels  io  *|v^ 

The  httle  cheala  and  exasperating  overcharges  are  heT^^f- 
spiouDUB  by  their  absence.    Bills  are  payable  at  the 
desk  (exnept  in  native  inns)  and  arc  not  allowed  t. 
sented  by  covetous  servants  expectant  of  life  annuitJaS 
fugitive  services  of  doubtful  worth.   Tlip  managers,  i 
Hervants,  oonduct  the  botelB,  and  no  one  is  allowed  to  — -__  ■^^■ 
the  departing  ^;ueet  for  tips.  In  Japan  one  rarely  leaves  a  '^^•4^ 
with  that  feelmg  of  diecoitifiture  so  well  undcretood  l^  t^^^fl 
velers  of  modest  means  and  a  well-tiefined  sense  of  iiia^ 
Calculated  attempts  to  overcharge  in  bills  are  happily  n 
It  ia  customary  tor  a  traveler  to  learn  the  given  nair"  "' 
room  or  table-boyj  and  iiall  him  by  it;  or  by  the  i 

'BoV  or  (more  politely)  'Boy  stin.'   Undersis^ed  boys  i..__  „ ,. 

erallv  called  by,  and  answer  willingly  to,  the  word  C/tiiadf  n«^ 
'small'  (pronounced  cftfc-ifio'A). 

The  most  progressive  hotels  are  now  equipped  with  Infor 
tion  Bureaus  conducted  by  English-speaking  clei' 
of  considerable  help  to  travelers.     Certain  of  t 
monthly   magazines,   in  English,   devoted   to   the   trave 
interests,  along  with  rly.  time-cards,  local  maps,  etc.   i_ 
also  purchase  tickets  for  guests,  attend  to  the  checking 
luggage,  and  perform  numerous  valuable  services  fret 
cause  of  the  lack  of  evening  entertaiimients  in  English,  t. 
of  the  hotel  managers  plan  enjoyable  conoerts,  juggling  ei 
tions,  musical  entertainments,  dances,  and  the  like,  and  t).  „ 
are  given  in  the  dining-rooni,  free  to  guests.    The  Orand  Hob 
at  Yokohama  celebrates  the  arrival  of  a  transpacific  at^u ' 
afaip  with  a  dance  and  musicale,  arranged  in  honor  of  t. 
arriving  guests.  New- Year  dances  with  their  attendant  feetiv^ 
ties  are  holiilay  features  of  certain  of  the  hotels,  and  duriiij^V 
Christmas  Week  rooms  must  be  spoken  for  in  advance.  At  tii'~  ™ 
time  the  Miyako  Hotel  at  Kyoto  is  thronged  with  foreign  raf 
dents  from  Kobe  and  other  cities,  and  much  jollity  reigns. 

Rates;  Most  of  the  hotels  are  conducted  on  the  'AmeriBtUi 
Plan.'  in  which  a  fixed  charge  (ran^n^  frota  S  t<o  20  yea]  la 
BMde  per  day  for  room  and  board,  witVvTio  vTTiVaV\&ie«i»»^ 
i^esotaervice.  Arrangementaontbe'BMio^eaivVSMi.;  ■w'«b«v 


HOTEL  RATES 

Mi  to  meui  one  price  for  lodgings  and  a  separate 
mah,  can  be  made  at  any  of  them.  The  scarcity  of 
Miestaurants  or  cai6s  in  American  or  Continental 
■one  msy  dine  well,  makes  it  advisable  for  travelers 
■ir  lod^ngs  on  the  American  plan,  which  is  prac- 
Jncd  throi^out  the  country.  The  rates  usually 
liteably  more  than  one  gets  in  hotels  else^^here; 
j|g::«offee,  with  toast  ana  jam,  or  marmalade,  or 
fed  in  tlie  traveler's  room  about  6  a.m.,  and  an 
Dyui  breakfast  in  the  dining-room  between  7  and 
(Chinese,  tecfct  fan  —  *  to  eat  rice' ;  'meal-time')  is 
12  to  2.30  P.M.,  and  comprises  the  dishes  custom- 
lerican  hotel.  At  4  p.m.  or  thereafter,  hot  tea  and 
ioe)  is  served  either  in  one's  room  or  on  the  hotel 
I  Is  included  in  the  daily  rate.  Dinner  (or  supper) 
rm  on  a  larger  scale  of  the  midday  meal.  Baths 
'  in  some  hotels;  hot  mineral  water  in  others)  are 
Bome  places  coal  is  charged  for  at  25  sen  a  scuttle; 
B  is  required  to  sign  a  chit  ^  for  each  bucket,  but  its 
diarged  against  Mm.  The  idea  is  to  keep  a  chedc 
Hits  and  make  the  guest  economical  of  the  coal. 
le  purpose,  chits  are  required  in  some  places  for 


ing  for  lodgings  the  traveler  should  always  ask 
ioe  includes.  Almost  any  of  the  hotels  will  rent 
Mit  board  (prices  on  application),  and  table-board 
furnished  if  wanted  (75  to  100  yen  a  month).  The 
rge  for  single  meals  is:  breakfast  75  sen  to  1  yen; 
I  to  ¥1.25;  dinner  ¥1.50  to  ¥2.  Most  of  the 
l^ests  by  the  week  or  month  at  a  reduction  of  the 
tnd  when  2  persons  occupy  one  room  a  lower  price 
le.  The  most  popular  places  are  usually  filled  in 
sasons  (March-June,  and  Sept.-Nov.),  at  whdch 
well  to  arrange  for  lodgings  in  advance.  Rates 
ig  these  periods,  but  in  the  off  scjison,  when  tourist 
mparatively  light,  better  terms  can  sometimes  be 
xoellent  feature  of  the  hotels  is  that  the  room-boys 
lo  valet  service  in  addition  to  their  other  duties  (no 
see  p.  liv),  and  clean,  press,  and  fold  clothes;  care 
lats,  and  wraps;  prepare  the  bath,  assist  one  to 
ge  tne  flowers  on  the  table;  and  make  themselves  so 
9eful  and  indispensable  that  Americans  marvel  at 
i  siiort-si^teaness  that  excludes  such  admirable 
im  the  United  States,  —  where  perhaps  no  single 

aftd^8  (Hindustani,  chiuhi,  a  '  note  of  indebtedness ';  a  '  note 
>  used  extensively  in  the  Far  East  in  lieu  of  ready  money. 
tai  stores,  dubs,  etc.,  are  signed  for  by  means  of  tnem;  chi^ 
Kb  out  with  letters  or  memoranda  for  the  signature  of  the  re- 
MBthbr-aecounts  are  checked  from  the  chits  attached  to  them. 
W^iima  ihb  place  of  I  O  U's  and  ffimilar  obligations. 


xirii  HOTEL  ROOMS— FOOD 

question  Bo  Texea  and  ages  American  women  as  the  exaeperat 

ing  servant  problem. 

The  Rooms  differ  but  little  from  tboee  of  American  hoteli 
excepting  that  man;?  ot  them  do  not  have  set  bowls  or  runntn 
water.  Ab  the  N.  winds  bring  chilling  qualities  in  wintw,  an 
the  breezes  from  the  B.  a  refreshing  coolness  in  aummer,  a  roon 
with  a  souUiem  exposure  will  be  found  the  beat  at  all  seaaon 
—  particuiarly  in  winter,  when  it  is  flooded  with  warm  bud 
ehine.   Open  fares  are  more  common  than  etovea. 

The  Pood  in  many  of  the  first-class  hotels  is  excellent,  a,n< 
coverB  a  wider  range  than  that  often  served  in  the  highest 
priced  estabiishmente  of  Europe.  Wild  boar,  venison,  pheat 
ant,  wild  ducks,  quail,  frog'a-legs;  an  astonishing  variety  c 
delicious  fish,  including  lobsters,  terrapin,  and  oysters;  musb 
rooms,  strawberries,  asparagus,  and  many  minor  dainties  ai 
much  commoner  in  Japan  than  in  the  U.S.A.,  and  are  se« 
frequently  on  the  tables  of  the  best  hotels.  Oeiiidental  oooko^ 
appeals  to  the  excellent  Japancw  chefs,  and  they  acquire  th 
intricate  praccsseB  of  preparing  foreign-style  dishes  with  singu 
lar  readiness.  TranalationB  of  foreign  cookbooks  exist.  Dish« 
in  the  native  style  of  cookery  are  rarely  served  at  hotels  und« 
foreign  management,  and  in  order  to  get  them  one  must  go  to 
native  inn  or  restaurant.  Milk  is  classed  us  an  e?ctra  in  man; 
hotels,  and  must  be  paiii  for  at  10  nen  &  glass.  In  justice  to  th 
hotel  management  travelers  should  beiar  in  mind  that  all  th 
Australian,  Canadian, European,  and  American  imported  stufl 
(wines,  jams,  biscuits,  pickles,  cheeses,  and  ahosl  of  tinned  ani 
packed  proviBions)  are  taxed  heavily  at  the  custom-house,  ui< 
that  this  large  and  necessary  expense  must  be  taken  into  cor 
Bideration  when  rates  are  quoted;  also  that  the  butter  ani 
cheese  (called  Uokoditte  cheese)  mode  in  Yezo  Island  ar 
superior  to  some  of  the  miported.  In  many  hotels  the  excelleo 
idea  of  numbering  the  it«ins  on  the  menu  is  carried  out 
Those  table-boys  or  maids  who  may  not  imderstand  Englis! 
learn  the  numbers  (the  Japanese  equivalents  of  which  th 
traveler  is  advised  to  aocuJrc),  and  by  citing  these,  the  travele 
is  served  with  his  selection. 

Cert^n  of  the  minor  hotels  have  yet  to  realize  the  impoi 
tance  of  having  Beparat*  toilet-rooms  for  men  and  women,  an< 

furnishing  good  soap  instead  of  the  cheap,  lurid,  home-mad 

In  these  places  one  should  always  inspect  the  unde 

the  bed,  as  this  often  serves  tor  as  many  travelers  a 

,fail  to  note  its  lack  of  freshness.    The  most  prominen 

'  1  in  the  port  cities  maintain  speedy  power  launches  tha 

^, .     incoming  ships,  and  land  passengers  and  their  luggag 

-quicker  than  the  shipB'  boata.   The  English -speaking  runner 

Jm  n?(Ae  name  o/tiie  CO tel  embroidered  on  ftie\icapa,wMle.ih 

^ggagecooUea  (tiinmku)  ueually  wear  bWeWoneea-wiftisoi! 

fiacufgiiiahiae  mark  ax  tbe  oentei  of  tbfc  bwit.  — '»«  Ai 


I 


HOTEL  SERVICE  zzxiii 

dc  addresses  of  the  different  hotels  have  been  added  to  the 
jBtences  to  them,  as  an  aid  to  travelers  who  may  wish  to  wire 
farooms.  —  While  thefts  from  hotel  rooms  are  rare,  both  for 
$tty  and  to  remove  temptation  from  those  who  mia^t  other- 
laa  remain  honest,  money  and  valuables  should  not  be 
toosed  needlessly. 

,  ^aracteristic  and  delightful  features  of  certain  of  the 
■trior  cities  and  towns  are  hotels  in  semi-forei^  style; 
phfling  combinations  of  foreign  hostelries  and  native  inns, 
BtL  the  comforts  of  the  former  and  the  peculiar  charm  of  the 
Jrtter.  They  make  a  special  bid  for  foreign  travelers,  and  serve 
D  food,  in  ways  no  less  dainty  and  satisfactory  than  those 
seaport  hotels.  The  quaintly  garbed,  sloe-eyed  Japanese 
sns  who  bow  the  traveler  a  deep  welcome  at  the  door, 
ter  to  him  like  an  attentive  nurse  while  he  is  beneath  the 
m's  Foof ,  and  bid  him  a  sorrowful  saydnara  when  his 
.___less  jinriki  bears  him  awav  from  the  hospitable  porch,  are 
Riy  pleasing  remembrances  of  these  attractive  plac^.  Hotels 
i  this  class  Oike  the  Miyako  at  Ky5to,  and  the  Kanaya  at 
:5)  are  customarily  so  situated  that  one  may  enjoy  deught- 
ad  scarcely  forgettable  views  of  mountain,  valley,  town,  or 
^rom  their  glassed-in  verandas,  and  to  the  average  tourist 
'  manifest  pictiu*esqueness  far  outweighs  what  Siey  may 

in  luxurious  fittings  and  massiveness.  A  felicitous  blend 

f  tf  the  Orient  and  the  Occident  is  displayed  in  their  architeo- 
toral  designs,  where  florid  and  quaintly  sculptured  temple- 
fittings  aid  in  the  interior  ornamentation.  Balconies,  etc.,  in 
tl^  style  of  those  of  ancient  palaces  enrich  the  exterior.  In 
RRne  of  them  one  may,  by  taking  up  his  lodgings  in  the  Japan- 
oe  wing,  enjoy  the  pleasure  of  living  in  Japanese  fashion  but 
dining  in  Western  style.  Such  suites  are  usually  furnished 
amply,  and  in  consequence  are  cheaper  than  those  of  the 
European  quarter,  but  they  are  no  less  comfortable,  particu- 
larly when  supplied  with  foreign  beds. 

The  proprietors  of  these  places  (as  well  as  of  many  excellent 
coontr^r  inns)  usually  give  them  their  personal  attention,  and 
tiie  limits  to  which  they  will  go  to  make  a  foreign  guest  com- 
fortable are  oftentimes  astonishing.  If  the  breakfast  hour  be 
7  o'clock  and  the  traveler  wishes  to  depart  at  5,  the  entire 
household  is  stirring  at  4,  for  the  average  Japanese  host  would 
think  it  rude,  indeed,  and  inhospitable,  to  allow  a  guest  to 
leave,  no  matter  how  early,  without  a  hot  breakfast  to  cheer 
1dm  on  his  way.  The  trouble  involved  is  neither  considered, 
nor  charged  for.  Lafcadio  Heam  mentions  (Glimpses  of  Un- 
fomUictr  Japan^  p.  130)  the  landlord  of  an  inn  who  prepared  the 
hot  water  for  his  bath,  then  insisted  upon  washing  him  with  his 
own  hands;  while  the  wife,  painfully  in  doubt  about  her  ability 
topleaaehim,  cooked  a  charming  repast  for  two  men  and  apo\o- 
riMl  for  not  bezs^  able  to  offer  him  morel 


nodv  JAPANESE  INNS 

Travelers  may  wish  to  remember  that  certain  hotds,  toirist* 
agents,  guides,  and  }inriki-men  work  in  with  one  anotiier^and 
laud  tneir  connections  to  the  detriment  of  the  outsider.  The 
clerks  in  certain  hotels  hold  financial  interests  in  others,  And 
are  therefore  biased  in  their  opinions.    When  one  is  uncolun 
where  one  wishes  to  lodge,  the  hotel  manager,  not  the  desk, 
^ould  be  consulted.  When  possible  the  traveler  should  nake 
up  his  mind  where  he  will  stop  and  not  allow  his  judgment  to 
be  influenced.   The  jinriki-man  will  sdways  take  him  to  tiie  - 
place  which  pays  him  the  largest  commission.  Great  caxft  has 
been  employed  in  the  selection  of  the  hotels  and  inns  re*  "^wnz- 
mended  m  the  Guidebook,  and  the  tourist  will  find  then' '**•'- 
best  in  each  place.  Whosoever  warns  the  traveler  that  al  '.■^'  J'^ 
hotels  of  the  interior  are  poor,  and  that  the  food  is  uneat  .'^**^"* 
should  be  discredited.  ifuart 

Japanese  Inns  (yadoyaj  hatagoya,  etc.)  are^  be  fooD^-.^. 
every  city  and  town  of  any  size,  ana  while  tlieu"  special  com- 
forts do  not  appeal  to  the  taste  of  all  Occidentals,  tne  best  em- 
body manv  pleasing  and  distinctive  features  —  pMiiculaH y 
those  in  which  the  fine  old  native  customs  are  u'lcnange^j^j" 
the  native  courtesy  unspoiled.  (Comp.  Houses,  p.  xlvii.)  '.■^*^  . 
the  innkeeper  {yadoya  no  teishu)  and  his  helpiul  wife  {*\q^j^^ 
san)  do  not  always  speak  English,  they  are  often  devoti  - :  p*", 
self  to  their  guests,  and  make  each  believe  himself  the  mobi, 
honored  one.  Albeit  the  Japanese  consider  the  well-appointed 
yadoya  peculiarly  comfortable  and  satisfying,  foreigners  fijid 
much  in  them  to  criticize.  To  many  the  food  b  illusive ;  the  fleas 
inordinately  hungrjr ;  the  toilet  arrangements  abominable  iwd 
suggestive  of  typhoid;  the  lack  of  chairs,  beds,  and  other 
niture  inconvement;  and  the  native  indifference  to  privacy 
exasperating.  Westerners  do  not,  as  a  rule,  relish  the  'dea  of 
having  giggfing  nesans  (lit.,  *  elder  sisters  0,  or  serving-maids, 
traipse  unannounced  through  their  apartments  at  all  hours, 
whether  one  be  asleep  or  awake;  dressed,  undressing,  or  un- 
dressed ;  nor  do  they  want  women  to  scrub  them  in  their  baths  I 
Be  a  yadoya  ever  so  good,  it  grows  very  tiresome  to  foreigners 
after  a  few  days  spent  in  it,  and  lenethy  sojourns  should  be 
planned  only  for  places  where  Occidental  conveniences  are 
obtainable. 

Owing  to  the  great  fires  which  so  often  scourge  Japanese  cities,  it  is  diflEL- 
eult  to  give  definite  information  about  cvenr  inn  in  the  Empire  and  expect 
it  to  hold  true  between  editions  of  the  Guidebook.  Even  where  the  names 
are  given,  it  is  well  for  one  to  ask  hotel  managers  or  innkeei>ers  which  is  the 
best  in  the  place  to  be  visited,  since  the  management  of  old  inns  change  and 
new  ones  start  up  to  meet  the  increasing  demands  of  travel.  As  a  rule  the 
new  ones  aim  to  introduce  comforts  that  will  appeal  to  foreigners,  and  in  this 
oense  are  sometimes  more  desirable  than  the  more  conservative  ones. 

The  regulation  inns  are  customarily  of  one  invariable  type, 

but  differing  as  to  size,  location,  and  surroundings.  Many  of 

ihem  use  well-water  for  drinking  and  cooking  purposes.  At 


RATES  AT  INNS 

Buddhiat  settlements  like  that  of  Kdya-^an  (p.  511)  the  trav- 
eler must  lodge  at  a  monastery  and  be  served  by  the  monks  in 
eharKe.  Except  in  very  small  and  remote  places  there  is  seldom 
any  oifficulfy  in  securing  a  lodging  ana  food.  There  are  no 
iims  in  Japan  where  the  traveler  is  waylaid  and  robbed;  and 
perhaps  none  where  it  is  unsafe  to  lodge. 

Man^  innkeepers  now  try  to  attract  foreign  tourists  by  call- 
ing; their  places  hotels j  and  it  has  been  our  aim  to  correct  the 
misconception  where  possible,  and  to  make  the  necessary  dis- 
tinction between  them.  Those  who  thus  advertise  their  tav- 
en&fi^have  in  some  cases  equipped  them  with  a  so-called  semi- 
fqr^Kn  wing  furnished  with  poor  beds,  stained-pine  wash- 
f^  Tids,  and  tawdry  fitments  for  which  several  times  the  usual 
inBi.  ^  IB  asked.  In  such  cases  it  is  often  more  economical  to 
(«ii.v.Age  a  room  in  the  Japanese  part  of  the  house  and  have 
whatever  forei^  food  one  can  get  served  in  it.  Certain  of  the 
b^  purely  native  inns  have  in  reserve  a  small  dining-table, 
ehairs,  koives,  forks,  spoons,  aged  butter,  pathetic  coffee,  and 
other  things  considered  essential  to  the  comfort  of  foreigners. 
Mi^jc  18  fast  becoming  necessary  to  the  Japanese  and  it  can  be 
pftiiined  in  many  out-of-the-way  places.   It  is  usually  sold 

'*Xh^4^)  ^  small  bottles  (bin)  con  taming  )  pint  (6  sen),  and  if 
die  Innkeeper  has  n't  it  he  will  send  out  ana  get  it.  By  addine 
BBlt  and  sugar  to  the  always  obtainable  hot  boiled  rice,  and 
poiiTing  milk  over  it,  a  palatable  substitute  for  porriage  is 
obtained.  Some  inns  possess  a  skillet  in  which  eggs,  potatoes, 
aji&''h%f-4ekki  *  (usually  very  tough)  can  be  fried.  Boiled  eggs 
are;^lways  to  be  had,  and  bread  can  be  toasted  over  the 
*;^Kichi.  A  careful  register  is  kept  at  inns  of  foreign  guests  (so 
:':  lit  the  police  may  keep  track  of  strangers),  and  prudent  trav- 

*  ele^.will  write  only  precise  information  on  the  paper  handed 
t6  tUem,  avoiding  levity  and  statements  which  they  may  at 
any  time  be  called  upon  to  confirm.  They  will  also  do  well  to 
follow  the  native  custom  of  carrying  their  own  towels  (teniigui) 
and  soap  {shabon)^  as  not  a  few  of  the  natives  suffer  from 
ophthalmia  and  skm-diseases.  Some  inns  make  it  a  custom  to 
present  departing  guests  with  a  pair  of  soft  sleazy  cotton  tow- 
els stamped  with  some  pretty  pattern  in  blue,  or  with  the 
crest  or  the  ideographic  name  of  the  hotel.  Paper  fans  or 
knickknacks  sometimes  take  the  place  of  these.  Foreign 
towels  asked  for  at  inns  are  apt  to  be  charged  for  at  50-75 
<en  each.  Valuable  belongings  should  never  be  taken  to,  or  left 
at,  native  inns,  because  of  the  constant  danger  of  fire.  If  one 
is  obliged  to  leave  luggage,  one  should  see  that  it  is  stored  in  the 
fireproof  godown. 

Rates  vary  with  the  standing  of  the  house,  its  reputation 
for  special  dishes,  the  popularity  of  the  serving-maids,  and 
the  eupidity  of  the  proprietor.  Some  innkeepers,  devoid  ol  ^i 
»«pro/Mv^7V7J3/ii3(/o//u^urepossibilities,  charge  ioiei^ei^ 


JAPANESE  INNS' 

prices  which,  not  high  when  viewed  from  an  Occidental  stand- 
point, are  absurdly  out  of  proportion  to  those  asked  of  natives 
—  who  know  what  rates  ought  to  be.  While  respect  for  the 
Japanese  libel  laws  makes  it  imperative  to  be  guarded  in  one'g 
references  to  those  places  where  the  traveler  is  robbed  under 
the  guise  of  exchange,  the  reader  will  have  no  difficulty  in 
understanding  the  allusions  to  be  found  scattered  throughout 
the  Guidebook ;  they  are  the  result  of  personal  experience  sup- 
plemented by  that  of  others,  and  they  will  be  found  trust- 
worthy. The  prudent  traveler  will  always  ask  what  the  prices 
include,  before  he  agrees  to  them.  In  traveling  it  is  also  a  good 
idea  to  carry  a  letter  of  introduction  from  one  innkeeper  to 
another,  as  this  often  serves  as  a  check  on  extortion.  The  hon- 
est hotelmen  throughout  the  Empire  are  trying  hard  to  better 
conditions  and  make  travel  easier  and  cheaper  for  tourists,  as 
well  as  to  inspire  the  less  intelligent  classes  with  a  realizing 
sense  of  what  is  due  to  foreign  guests. 

The  customary  charge  in  an  ordinary  inn  for  hatago,  which  is 
understood  to  comprise  supper,  bed,  and  breakfast  (tiffin  is 
usually  extra),  ranges  from  ¥1.50  to  ¥3.50,  with  an  extra 
charge  for  special  dishes.  In  some  places  guests  are  asked  what 
class  they  prefer;  a  modest  room  with  plain  food,  or  better 
apartments  with  food  to  match.  The  higher  rate  (¥3.50) 
may  include  a  small  suite  overlooking  a  pretty  parden  (always 
preferable  to  rooms  overlooking  the  street)  with  2  or  3  more 
dishes  at  meals.  Foreigners  are  asked  if  they  will  have  Japa- 
nese or  foreign  food  (see  p.  xxxii).  Unless  special,  high-priced 
dishes  are  demanded,  the  former  will  be  found  cheaper,  as  it  is 
nearly  always  ready  and  requires  no  special  preparation.  The 
best  food  is  not  alwavs  to  be  had  in  the  most  pretentious 
places.  In  certain  modest  inns,  where  the  rooms  are  as  bare  as 
a  monk's  cell,  and  the  general  appearance  of  austerity  might 
argue  a  strict  economy,  there  will  often  come,  as  an  agreeable 
surprise,  dainty  food  served  in  dishes  that  delight  the  lover  of 
beautiful  porcelain  or  lacquer.  Later  the  traveler  may  learn 
that  the  place  enjoys  fame  for  some  savory  specialty  —  eels 
boiled  in  soy,  broiled  crajrfish,  stewed  octopus,  buckwheat- 
macaroni,  or  the  like.  Many  of  the  inns  do,  in  fact,  specialize 
in  foods  peculiar  to  certain  localities,  and  are  noted  for  native 
dainties  in  or  out  of  season.  In  some  of  them  one  may  select 
live  fish  from  a  pool  and  have  it  cooked  to  order.  The  better- 
class  inns,  removed  from  the  beaten  track  of  travel,  can  usu- 
ally supply  chicken,  indifferent  roast-beef,  and  beefsteak, 
while  those  near  the  sea  always  serve  delicious  fish  in  a  variety 
of  ways,  or  broiled  lobsters  and  shrimps  (which  should  not  be 
eaten  until  the  alimentary  canal  is  removed). 

Many  inns  do  not  display  signs  in  foreign  languages,  and  are 

therefore  not  easy  to  locate.  Those  which  face  rly .  stations  are 

generally  fluah  with  the  street,  and  have  an  upper  balcony. 


JAPANE^  INNS  zzzvii 

Others  sit  considerably  back  from  the  street,  and  are  some- 
times approached  through  a  mediseval  gateway  (leading  to  a 
passagewajr  flanked  by  fences  or  houses)  hunp  with  lanterns, 
adorned  with  a  sanded  electric-light  globe  with  the  name  in 
black  on  it,  and  surmounted  by  a  chevaux-defrUe  of  split  bam- 
boo. Some  inns  are  lighted  by  acetylene  gas  or  electricity;  in 
others  a  lamp  or  a  candle  lights  the  traveler  to  bed.   Not  un- 
frequently  countiy  inns  occupy  beautiful  sites  on  hills,  or  near 
rivers  or  the  sea,  in  the  midst  of  charming  gardens,  with  fine 
views.  The  entrance  is  most  always  a  roofed  vestibule  with  a 
well-trodden  earthen  floor  backed  by  a  raised  platform  about 
20  in.  high,  forming  at  once  a  seat  and  the  outer  extension  of 
the  grouna  floor.  A  scattered  line  of  shoes,  sandals,  and  geta 
belonging  to  guests  usually  lie  along  it,  and  at  one  side  is  a  cup- 
board where  umbrellas  and  footwear  are  deposited.  A  big  drop 
octagon  clock  on  the  wall,  a  low  desk,  an  hibctchiy  and  a  pile  of 
cushions  generally  complete  the  office  equipment.  The  trav- 
eler's jinnki  customarily  deposits  him  in  the  vestibule,  at  the 
edgfi  of  the  platform,  beneath  the  overhang  of  the  roof.  Shouts 
of  Okyaku  san  C  honorable  visitor ')  apprise  the  master  and 
the  maids  that  a  guest  is  arriving,  and  all  hurry  forward  to 
receive  him,  uttering  cries  of  welcome  and  bowing  glossy  black 
heads  to  the  floor.  As  the  traveler  sits  on  the  platform,  a  serv- 
ant removes  his  shoes,  and  others  divest  him  of  his  wraps. 
Shoes  are  rarely  cleaned,  and  if  they  be  wet  or  muddy  thejr  are 
left  untouched.  (Comp.p.lxxvii.)  Habitual  frequenters  of  inns 
often  provide  themselves  with  foot-coverings,  to  slip  over 
shoes  and  thus  be  able  to  wear  them  to  the  apartment.  Without 
them  one  mustdon  the  heellesaslippers  furnished,  or  go  to  one's 
room  unshod.  As  the  master  of  the  tavern  calls  out  the  number 
of  the  room,  the  maids  conduct  one  either  down  a  long  passage- 
way on  the  same  floor  or  up  flights  of  highly  polished,  slippery 
stairs  without  guard-rails  and  placed  customarily  at  a  dan- 
gerous angle.    Unless  otherwise  instructedj  foreigners  are 
generally  conducted  to  the  best  suite,  consistmg  of  two  spac- 
ious rooms  separated  by  sliding  wall-panels  (Jusuma;  kara- 
kami).  These  constitute  the  partitions  throughout  the  house, 
each  floor  of  which  can  thus  be  quickly  converted  into  one 
vast  room.   As  there  are  neither  locks  nor  catches,  and  as  it  is 
the  custom  for  maids  to  enter  rooms  at  any  and  all  times, 
without  knocking,  privacy  is  lacking  entirely.  In  high-class 
inns  suites  are  marked  by  elegant  and  striking  simplicity. 
They  are  devoid  of  every  comfort  essential  to  Occidentals, 
but  quite  satisfy  the  Japanese,  who  spend  hours  squatting  in 
them  or  lying  flat  on  their  stomachs,  with  heels  in  tne  air. 

The /uswma  are  sometimes  decorated  richly  with  pure  gold- 
leaf;  with  landscape  or  other  scenes,  and  framed  in  highly 
poUflhed  wood.  The  pillars  of  the  slightly  raised  alcove  (JLoko- 
1)  are  of  grained  or  gnarled  wood,  plain  or  carved.  TYie  aftk 


xxyviii  JAPANESE  INNS 

or  paper  kakemono,  or  scroll,  which  hangs  against  the  waU 
portrays  usually  one  of  the  Seven  Gods  of  Good  Luck,  a  Chin- 
ese landscape  copied  from  a  costly  original  by  some  famous 
painter,  portraits  of  the  Sixteen  Rakan,  a  text  in  classic  Chin- 
ese from  Mencius  or  Confucius,  a  picture  of  Dammar  a  maxim 
from  the  Buddhist  Sutra,  or  a  poem  in  the  handwriting  of  some 
defimct  celebrity.  Beneath,  on  the  dais  of  highly  polished 
keyaki-wood  rests  a  bronze  or  porcelain  vase,  with  a  sprig  of 
something  green,  or  a  delicate  flower.  Extreme  care  is  often 
given  to  the  arrangement  of  this,  which  always  dips  to  the 
correct  angle,  and  carries  some  significant  sentiment.  A  shelf 
built  into  the  wall  at  one  side  of  the  alcove  affords  space  for 
clothing  which  one  may  not  wish  to  place  on  the  floor.  There 
is  no  stick  of  furniture,  and  often  not  a  peg  on  which  to  hang  a 
pocket-mirror.  A  campaniform  or  a  neart-shaped  window, 
defended  by  bamboo  rods  and  perhaps  a  small  shoji  or  paper- 
covered  screen  (garasu  shojiy  or  glass  windows  are  rare),  or 
maybe  a  narrow,  sliding  ventilator  above  the  fusuma,  admit 
light  and  air.  Foreigners  will  do  well  to  choose  a  room  with 
such  a  vent,  as  the  shutters  which  run  the  lensth  of  the  outer 
balconv  are  slid  into  position  about  10  p.m.  (the  police  insist 
upon  their  being  closed)  —  often  with  a  great  clatter  —  and 
successfully  exclude  all  air.  The  traveler  who  cannot  sleep 
without  fresh  air,  in  a  tightly  sealed  apartment^  may  demand 
that  a  space  be  left  in  the  shutters  opposite  his  room.  The 
native  distaste  for  pure  air  is  marked. 

In  the  seneral  run  of  inns  the  upper  rooms  are  the  most 
desirable,  but  those  houses  with  pretty  landscape  gardens  not 
unfrequently  have  attractive  ground-floor  suites  with  bits  of 
the  garden  allotted  to  them.  The  simplest  rooms  are  often 
rendered  very  dainty  and  artistic  by  the  little  touches  which 
the  Japanese  know  how  to  apply  with  such  deftness.  The  ceil- 
ings may  be  formed  of  extraordinarily  wide  and  beautifully 
grained  cryptomeria  wood  of  a  fine  gray  color  traversed  by  a 
black  stripe.  The  thin  boards  of  the  partition  above  the 
/iwuma  are  pierced  customarily  with  some  pictorial  design  ex- 
hibiting a  few  skillfully  incised  lines  suggesting  Fuji-san, 
with  storks  winging  their  slow  flight  across  the  snow-capped 
cone;  a  flight  of  sparrows;  peacocks  standing  on  the  limb  of  a 
flowering  cherry  tree;  or  a  marshy  place  to  which  wild  ducks 
are  descending.  The  floors  are  covered  with  soft  straw  mats, 
and  extreme  tidiness  is  the  salient  characteristic.  Although  it 
is  considered  slovenly  to  wash  in  the  bedroom,  innkeepers  will 
often  capitulate  to  foreign  eccentricity  and  order  a  brass  basin 
of  hot  water  placed  on  the  balcony.  Wash-basins  stand  in  a 
row  near  the  centre  of  the  inn  on  the  lower  floor,  and  hither 
guests  are  supposed  to  repair  to  make  their  toilet  (and,  in  the 
ease  of  foreigners,  be  the  cynosure  of  all  eyes) .  One  should  al- 
wayBiiwist  upon  having  a  room  as  remote  as  possible  from  the 


JAPANESE  INNS 

offensive  ch$ziir4Hi,  or  henjo  (w.c.)i  which,  although  placed 
ordinarily  at  the  end  of  a  long  passage,  is  nevertheless  the 
most  prominent  object  in  the  house.  The  neaans  usually  con- 
duct strangers  to  it  (poor  toilet-paper),  and  sometimes  remain 
until  driven  off  (a  custom  rather  than  a  willful  offense  against 
propriety) . 

While  the  traveler  is  fitting  himself  to  his  quarters  a  brazen 
MMchi  of  pleasing,  artistic  shape,  with  handles  formed  of 
Korean  lion-heads  crunching  rings,  is  brought  in  and  placed  in 
a  convenient  place;  new  and  clean  charcoal  twigs  are  placed 
on  the  live  coals  occupying  a  sort  of  glowing  crater  in  a  minia- 
ture Fuji-yama  of  fine,  soft  ash,  and  are  started  to  burn  with  a 
great  scattering  of  small  sparks.  Exaggerated  iron  chop-sticks 
are  stuck  upright  in  the  ashen  cone,  and  a  quaint  iron  tea- 
kettle is  filled  with  water  and  set  over  the  iron  tripod  to  boil. 
A  smaller  hibcuihi  for  smokers  is  placed  in  another  part  of  the 
room,  and  a  dainty  tray  with  handleless  teacups,  a  porcelain 
pot,  and  a  metal  canister  of  tea  is  placed  near  the  big  hihachi 
(which  should  always  be  put  out  of  the  room  before  retiring). 
Floor  mats  to  sit  upon,  a  beautiful  lacquered  box  of  sweets, 
or  kioashi  (called  tezukuriU  home-made),  and  other  creature 
comforts  are  soon  added,  along  with  a  neatly  folded  dressing- 
gown  (yukata),  towels,  and  sandals.  A  maid  or  the  landlord 
iM)w  presents  a  slip  of  paper  on  which  one  must  write  one's 
name,  profession,  age,  sex,  condition  in  life,  destination,  and 
provenience.  Stripping  and  donning  the  gaudy  bath-kimono 
one  is  conducted  to  the  bath  (usually  at  the  end  of  a  long, 
draughty  corridor),  where  one  will  be  fortunate  if  one  gets  an 
individual  tub  not  already  occupied  by  men  and  women  bath- 
ers. In  resorts  where  there  are  mineral  springs,  the  tubs  con- 
tain flowing  water;  in  places  where  this  commodity  is  re- 
latively scarce,  it  is  apt  not  to  be  fresh.  Unless  the  door  is 
secured  in  some  manner,  one  is  apt  to  be  interrupted  by  others 
who  come  to  share  the  tub.    Sitting  on  the  small  stool  near 
the  pool  or  tub,  one  soaps  one's  self,  pours  water  over  the  body 
with  the  dipper,  then  enters  the  water  for  a  short  immersion. 
The  Japanese  custom  is  take  no  notice  of  one's  bathing  com- 
panions, be  they  men  or  women,  unless  one  is  inclined  to  con- 
verse. A  survey  of  one's  physical  characteristics  is  apparently 
never  thought  of. 

Food  is  served  in  the  guest's  room  on  a  lacquered  tray,  gen- 
erally at  whatever  hour  one  may  wish  it.  The  three  meals  are 
marked  by  considerable  sameness,  and  consist  ordinarily  of 
fish  in  some  form;  tea,  boiled  eggs  or  a  sweet  omelette;  two 
Boups  in  small  covered  lacquer  bowls;  chopped  relishes  and 
sliced  pickles;  and  steaming  rice  taken  from  a  wooden  tub 
holding  about  a  peck,  beside  which  the  nesan  kneels  ready  to 
Rffll  the  china  bowl.  One  of  the  soups  may  be  made  oi  ?i'^, 
"^ikQihitB of  yegetahles Boating  in  it;  or  of  lobster,  ox  sea^eein 


xl  JAPANESE  INNS 

!n  which  case  it  is  amazingly  thin  and  unpalatable;  the  other 
of  beans,  bean-curd  or  something  of  that  nature.  Salt  is  not 
providea  unless  asked  for.  Many  of  the  dishes  are  cooked  in 
8oy^  a  tiny  dish  of  which  is  supplied  for  dipping  bits  into  before 
eatmg  them.  Certain  of  the  inns  serve  deticious  bamboo- 
shoots:  others  buckwheat-macaroni,  or  boiled  eels  or  other 
specialties.  The  raw  carp  cut  into  thin,  pinkish  slices  should  be 
avoided.  One  can  usually  get  a  spoon  and  a  fork  to  replace  the 
chop-sticks  on  the  tray.  A  Uttle  curry-powder  will  often  render 
dishes  more  palatable.  Bottles  of  the  Thermos  type  enable  one 
to  piece  out  a  meal  with  hot  cofifee  or  the  like.  The  low  table 
on  which  the  trays  are  placed  is  call  zen,^ 

Piles  of  quilts,  ot  futons  (kept  in  air-tight  closets  during  the 
day)  are  spread  out  on  the  mats  to  form  the  bed;  the  smgle 
under-sheet  (be  sure  it  is  clean)  is  tacked  fast  to  the  quOt. 
There  is  no  upper  sheet,  and  no  blanket.  The  cover  is  a  large, 
thickly  padded  /uton,  often  of  silk,  with  its  upper  end  thick- 
ened into  a  fat,  smothering  roll.  Over  this  part  the  foreigner 
will  generally  wish  to  pin  a  towel,  to  prevent  it  coming  in  con- 
tact with  his  face  —  as  it  has  with  those  of  scores  of  others. 
When  piled  high  the  quilts  are  comfortable,  and  one  does  not 
feel  the  rigidity  of  the  floor.  A  satisfactory  pillow  can  be  made 
h^  doubling  a  cushion  and  enveloping  it  in  a  big  towel.  The 
pillow  usually  offered  to  foreigners  will  poison  the  sleep  of 
the  most  phlegmatic.  It  is  an  extraordinarily  hard,  sausage- 
8hax>ed  contrivance  stuffed  tightly  with  oat-husks  or  some  simi- 
lar unyielding  substance,  and  with  a  dark  surface  that  appar- 
ently has  been  slept  on  many  times.  An  air-pillow  is  useful  in 
such  cases.  Flea-powder  is  often  essential  when  one  sleeps  on 
the  ground  floor,  for  here  Pvlex  irrUans  is  usually  as  numerous 
as  he  is  hungry.  He  can  often  be  debarred  from  a  too  personal 
intimacy  by  speading  sheets  of  oiled  paper  on  the  matting 
beneath  the/utons,  and  sprinkling  a  train  of  the  powder  alons 
its  edges.  To  cope  with  the  plague  of  these  light  saltatorisd 
carnivora,  old  travelers  recommend  a  wide  sleeping-bag  of  thin 
but  strong  hdbutae  (silk)  drawn  round  the  neck  by  a  string. 
They  are  very  light  and  can  be  obtained  at  any  silk-mercer's. 
Others  carry  sheets  (which  are  much  heavier  and  bulkier),  and 
pillow-slips  for  the  native  cushions.  In  justice  to  innkeepers 
it  should  be  added  that  fleas  are  not  an  indication  of  filth  or 
dovenliness;  the  incessant  rains  drive  them  into  the  houses, 
where  the  style  of  floor  covering  offers  them  pleasing  and  im- 
pregnable positions. 

The  best  inns  provide  mosquito-nets  {kaya^  or  kacho)  in  the 
form  of  voluminous  nets  (usually  dyed  green)  S-10  ft.  sq., 

1  Zen  is  also  used  to  express  the  act  of  preparing  food,  and  is  used  as  a 

numeral  in  counting  food  served  in  a  cup  or  bowl,  as:  Meshi  san  2en»3  cups 

0$  boiled  rice;  Shiru  ni  zen^2  cups  of  soup;  Hathi  ichi  ten  =  a  pair  of  choi>- 

stioks.  Qo-zen  is  boiled  rice,  or  a  meal;  u-ten  wo  eueru—lo  set  a  table;  Zen 

n§'tsuAnt^to  at  at  a  table. 


JAPANESE  TEA-HOUSES  AND  RESTAURANTS    sU 

almost  .as  large  as  the  room  in  which  they  are  hung  —  by 
means  of  metal  rings  (kayct^no^tsurUe)  on  hooks  in  posts.  Ser- 
vants are  often  immune  from  bites,  and  their  word  that  no 
mosquitoes  (ka)  exist  cannot  be  relied  upon.  The  prevalence  of 
water  in  Japanese  towns,  and  of  paddy-fields  in  the  environs, 
account  for  the  multiplicity  of  these  voracious  and  vexatious 
ioaects.  On  entering  an  inn  where  one  expects  to  remain  over- 
ni^t,  one  should  tell  the  okami  aan  to  hang  up  a  mosquito-net 
{liya  wo  tsuru) ,  else  sleep  may  be  impossible.  In  the  absence  of 
nets  (which,  because  of  being  kept  in  close  closets,  are  always 
d^apeeably  musty),  a  little  pimgent  oil  of  peppermint  {hakha) 
will  keep  the  pests  away  while  the  odor  lasts.  The  nativ&-made 
netting  (kayaji)  is  considerably  cheaper  than  the  imported. 
Ladies  who  find  their  nets  too  large  had  best  complain  of  the 
matter  in  a  guarded  m£bnner,  since  in  certain  districts  <^  Japan 
for  a  widow  to  mention  that  her  mosquito-net  is  too  large  is 
equivalent  to  a  disposition  on  her  part  to  name  the  day. 

Formerly  the  perplexing  chadai  Qit.,  'tea-price')  system 
pievailed  in  the  inns,  and  when  a  traveler  entered  he  handed 
to  the  proprietor,  for  distribution  among  the  servants,  a  gratu- 
ity commensiurate  in  value  to  the  service  he  expected  to  receive 
while  sojourning  imder  his  roof.    If  it  was  not  handed  in  in 
advance,  a  sum  to  cover  it  was  added  to  the  bill  —  which  was 
adjusted  in  proportion.  The  system  still  exists  in  some  places, 
but  it  is  so  complicated  and  unsatisfactory  that  many  rich 
Japanese,  who  are  expected  to  pay  according  to  their  station, 
find  it  too  expensive,  and  go  to  foreign  hotels  for  their  enjoy- 
ment. Under  the  system  the  innkeeper  serves  not  in  accord- 
ance with  what  he  ought  to  do,  but  in  ratio  to  the  chadai  he 
receives.  As  a  general  rule  foreigners  are  not  expected  to  be 
familiar  with  the  method,  and  the  prices  quoted  them  by  an 
innkeeper  include  all  he  expects  to  receive.    Tips  (p.  liv)  to 
the  servants  are  optional  with  travelers.  Not  a  few  of  the  inns 
in  the  larger  cities  have  branches  (shiten)  near  the  rly .  stations, 
which  operate  under  the  firm  name.  The  kichin-yado  is  a  cheap 
inn  where  poor  travelers  lodge  and  are  charged  merely  for  the 
wood  with  which  they  cook  their  rice. 

The  Japanese  Tea-House  (chaya)  differs  from  the  Restau- 
rant (ryoriya)  in  that  at  the  former  tea  and  light  refreshments 
(cakes,  soft  drinks,  fruit,  and  the  like)  only  are  to  be  had,  while 
the  latter  are,  in  a  way,  similar  to  the  eating-houses  of  the  Occi- 
dent. Anciently  a  national  institution  of  great  popularity,  the 
chaya  has  dwindled  to  the  modest  establishment  maintained 
by  poor  but  thrifty  women  who  eke  out  a  slender  livelihood  by 
the  returns  from  a  stock  in  trade  worth  scarcely  more  than  5^ 
yen.  The  oft-mentionedcha-no-yu  ceremony  of  Old  3apaTi  la 
rnpidly  becomiDg  a  thing  of  the  past,  and  the  old-iasViioiied 

^^/^^n^ct/^^^  ^^'*^  '^'  Some  of  the  modexii 

^s^a,     psrtjcu/arjy  those  scattered  along  the  country  \ii^\x- 


adii  JAPANESE  FOOD 

^ays  — provide  the  wayfarer  with  a  bare  lodging  and  a  meager 
repast,  but  they  are  not  classed  with  yadoyas.  The  customary 
charge  for  tea  and  cakes,  a  dish  of  hot  8o6a,  and  two  or  three 
bowls  of  boiled  rice  is  25  sen.  For  a  tiny  pot  of  tea  and  a  slice  of 
kasuteraj  or  a  handful  of  crackers  at  one  of  the  omnipresent  tea- 
houses by  the  roadside  or  near  waterfalls,  the  Japanese  pay 
2-3  sen;  the  foreigner,  10  sen.  The  tea  is  bought  in  bulk  and 
costs  the  vender  at  the  rate  of  about  1  sen  for  enough  for  50  or 
more  pots. 

Many  of  the  restaurants  are  rapidly  adapting  themselves  to 
the  new  order  of  things,  —  to  enable  them  to  compete  with  the 
modem  clubs  and  the  like,  —  and  certain  of  those  in  the  larger 
citiesare  gradually  assuming  the  character  of  those  of  the  West. 
Many  in  the  style  of  the  old  regime  remain,  and  serve  dainties 
in  arid  out  of  season  at  New  York  and  London  prices.  They 
and.their  geisha  accompaniment  are  kept  alive  by  the  Japan- 
ese who  frequent  them  (often  for  social  reasons  rather  than  for 
food) ;  and  aespite  the  fact  that  in  some  of  them  a  good  dinner 
may  cost  anywhere  from  10  to  50  yen^  men  go  there  for  fear  that 
to  be  seen  in  a  modest-priced  place  might  impair  their  financial 
standing.  A  fairly  good  tiffin  may  be  had  in  some  of  them  for 
from  8  to  5  yen^  The  Japanese  find  a  famous  restaurant  or  two 
in  almost  every  city  ward  in  Tokyo,  while  in  nearly  every  street 
are  less  famous  ones  where  the  peculiar  national  disnes  are 
served  at  popular  prices.  Certain  of  them  are  famed  for  special 
dishes  (eels  and  nee;  bucikwheat-macaroni,  etc.)  and  for  the 
individual  grace  and  charm  of  the  geishay  but  few  of  them 
make  a  direct  appeal  to  the  foreigner  —  to  whom  they  are  as 
strangely  uncomfortable  as  the  food  is  unpalatable.  There  are 
no  showy  exteriors,  no  opulent  and  classic  interiors.  Out- 
wardly the  most  celebrated  is  difficult  to  distinguish  from  the 
adjacent  dwelling. 

The  Seiyo-ryori,  or  foreign-style  Restaurant  that  makes  a 
direct  appeal  to  the  seiydjin^  or  foreigner,  and  purports  to 
serve  food  in  the  Western  style  (seiydgata)^  has  its  habitat 
chiefly  in  T5ky5,  and  is  yet  in  a  state  of  evolution. 

Japanese  Food  (tahemono)  is  of  wide  range  and  amazing 
variety.  It  is  as  much  the  delight  of  the  native  —  whose 
tastes  are  catholic,  and  who  regards  the  Nipponese  cookery  as 
the  best  extant  —  as  it  is  the  despair  of  the  foreigner,  who  con- 
siders most  of  it  mawkish  and  unsatisfying.  He  fails  signally  to 
thrive  long  upon  it,  while  the  native  who  turns  to  foreign  food 
{ypshoku)  to  the  exclusion  of  his  own,  relinquishes  the  former 
with  pleasure,  and  reverts  to  the  latter  with  renewed  zest. 
The  notion  entertained  abroad  that  the  Japanese  as  a  nation 
live  on  rice  is  erroneous;  those  who  can  afford  this  now  rela» 
ti  v^ly  expensive  grain  eat  it  in  quantities,  but  the  main  food  of 
01ie poorer  folks  conaiata  of  groats,  barley,  millet,  buckwheat. 


JAPANESE  FOOD  zliU 

beans,  fish  (and  many  marine  products),  and  vegetables. 
Rice  is  a  luxury  with  thousands  of  the  peasants;  it  takes  the 
place  of  bread  with  the  well-conditioned;  and  wherever  it  is 
eaten  to  the  exclusion  of  other  foods  it  produces  (because  the 
ihhi  phosphorous  skin  is  polished  ofif  it)  the  prevalent  beri- 
beri. The  proportion  of  ammal  food  is  small.  Beans  eaten  in  a 
variety  of  ways  occupy  a  conspicuous  place  in  the  food  of  all 
classes  and  they  supply  the  nitrogenous  matter  essential  to 
those  who  rarely  eat  meat  and  who  do  not  get  the  casein  ob- 
tained by  cheese-eating  peoples.  The  soy-bean  {daizu;  omame) 
ranks  first  in  extent,  vanety  of  use,  and  value  among  the  pulse 
of  Jai>an,  and  in  point  of  nutriment  is  quite  near  to  meat.   It 
contains  nearly  two  fifths  of  its  weight  m  legumin,  nearly  one 
sixth  in  fat,  and  is  rich  in  nitrogen.    It  is  to  the  Nipponese 
what  frijolea  are  to  Mexicans  and  garhamoa  (chick-peas)  to 
Spaniards.  Of  the  numerous  varieties  some  are  made  into 
curd,  and  into  the  widely  celebrated  bean-sauce  (the  Worces- 
tershire of  Asia)  called  shoyu  {sho,  soy;  yu,  oil),  and  which  is 
almost  as  indispensable  as  nee.  It  forms  the  daily  relish  of  the 
rich  man  and  the  beggar,  and  is  in  as  general  use  as  tea  and 
tobacco.   The  Japanese  first  became  acquainted  (in  1542) 
with  bread  and  similar  baked  foods  through  the  Portuguese, 
and  from  them  they  adopted  the  first  article  and  called  it  bv 
the  Spanish  pan;  and  a  spongy,  saffron-yellow  cake,  which 
they  named  kasutera  (pron.  kdS'teh'rah)^  from  Castile.  The 
Portuguese  also  introduced  maize,  the  mahiz  of  the  Carib- 
beans,  which  Columbus  found  growing  in  Hispaniola,  and 
which  he  carried  to  Europe,  whence  it  spread  over  the  civilized 
world.  When  the  Japanese  adopted  it,  they  called  it  td-^moro- 
hoshi  (Chinese  sorghum)  td-kibi  (Chinese  millet)  j  Satsuma-kibi 
(because  it  was  planted  first  in  Satsuma  Province) ,  and  Nanhan 
M  (millet  of  the  Southern  barbarians),  because  it  was  intro- 
duced by  those  whom  the  natives  considered  barbarians. 
Maize  is  gradually  becoming  a  valuable  food  product^  though 
the  plant  does  not  possess  the  same  character  as  certain  of  the 
maize  plants  of  America. 

The  average  Japanese  lives  temperately  and  frugally,  but 
eats  noisily  and  rapidly.  Before  the  mtroduction  of  Buddhism, 
fish,  flesh  of  wild  animals,  roots,  and  a  few  fruits  formed  the 
food  of  the  people.  Buddhist  influence  caused  the  abandon- 
ment of  the  meat  diet,  and  cultivated  vegetables  of  various 
kinds  came  more  into  prominence  —  chief  among  them  rice. 
Most  important  among  the  starch-furnishing  tubers  is  the 
saUhimo  ('village  potato  0  or  CdLadium  Colocasia  (the  toro or 
hob  of  Hawaii ;  yu-tao  of  China ;  oto  of  Central  Ameri ca) .  Then 
follow  sweet  potatoes,  Irish  potatoes  (introduced  by  the  Dutch 
and  called  JagcUaror-imo,  from  Jacatra^  the  earlier  de8\g;iia\.\oii 
for  Batavia) ;  the  rhizoma  of  the  lotus  flower;  bamboo  bYioo\.^, 
Peiiu»/w  the  most  conepicuouB  among  the  vegetab\eE  ax^ 


r 

I         fe 


JAPANESE  FOOD 


the  long  white  radiehefl  called  daikon  {Raphanus  gatfi>u«r<. 
ferred  to  by  foreigners  aa  the  Japanese  Limbufger),  highlyefr   ' 
teemedaodefttenby  allclaHBea.    Near KyOto  and  KagodiimB 
they  attain  to  extraordinary  size  and  often  weigh  several 
pounds.   When  boiled  they  are  not  unlike  turnips;  but  when 

K'ckled  the  odor  of  putrefaction  is  eingularly  offensive  to 
reignetB.  Slices  of  the  pickled  product  are  served  as  a  relish 
with  every  native  meal.  Thebeautifuldark  violet  fruit  of  the 
^B-pla°t  (nasu),  partly  cooked  fresh  in  Houp,  or  salted  and 
used  instead  of  daikon,  is  also  much  eateeiaed.  Several  varie- 
ties of  mushrooina  {take)  are  popular.  —  The  decline  of  Bud- 
dhism and  the  adoption  of  Weatern  customs  have  wrought* 
marked  change  in  the  Japanese  diet.  Milk  (from  Ilolstein 
cows),  cheese,  butter,  eg^,  bread,  meat,  Sour,  fowls,  wild 
game,  fish  in  Umitleas  variety,  beer,  whiskey,  and  the  likef^^ 
consumed  by  whosoever  (outside  the  priesthood)  can  atti 
them-  Jama  are  made  in  several  towns,  and  the  consumptfl 
of  fruit  grows  steadily.  ■1 

Seaweed  in  almost  endless  variety  enters  largely  into  fofl 
stuffs.  Notonlyare the giantaof the marineflora taken npa 
utilized  in  various  ways,  but  also  the  more  delicate  redg 
green  eorta  —  the  use  of  which  has  been  adopted  by  o 

nations.  MostottheediblegreenandredalgEebeartheKei 

term  nori,  while  the  words  umi-kusa,  or  kai-»d  (which  alUi  , 
leans  bScitc-de-mer),  are  used  for  alpw  in  general.  Many  of 
ile  weeds  are  eaten  fresh,  others  in  soup.  Some  are  dried  or 
lickled  and  eaten  in  vinegar.  They  usually  appear  in  com- 
Derce  in  the  form  of  little  packages;  to  the  sale  of  whieh  special 
(ttorea  are  dedicated .  Certain  varieties  are  converted  into  jelly. 
Among  the  curious  things  eaten  may  be  mentioned  whala- 
meat;  squid,  slices  of  raw  fish  (s'^himi),  to  which  cholera  is 
often  traceable;  sea-slugs;  crilled  ape  (considered  a  great  del- 
icacy);and  other  things  whicti  foreigners  consider  detestable. 
— An  elaborate  Japanese  dinner  comprises  many  trays  each 
of  three  or  four  courses,  and  usually  much  more  than  a  sane 
person  should  eat  at  a  sitting.  The  custom  of  sweeping  the 
food  (with  chop-sticks)  into  the  back  of  the  mouth,  then  wash- 
ing it  down  with  soup  drunk  from  a  bowl,  and  without  chew- 
ing, gives  rise  to  the  national  complaint,  dyspepsia.  Banquets 
are  conKdered  incomplete  without  geisha  to  interject  sparkle 
and  jollity.  If  the  deadly  drum-beating  does  not  give  the 
foreign  guest  a  tight  headache ,  frequent  sippings  of  the  harm- 
lesa*appearing  but  treacherous  safcsand  the  pickling  green  tea 
will  provide  theneceasarypainunderthewaistcoat.  The  Jap- 
anese are  hospitable  to  a  fault,  and  are  inordinately  fond  of 
giving  banquets  (sometimes  at  home,  but  mote  often  at  re»- 
laurants).  Teaand  cake  without  BUgai^aaATn-ias. Me  wa\,\»iume 
a//  vimtore  &t  a  Japanese  house .  Tea  and  ti&cVws  atc^Xrai. 
served  free  ia  sbopa.  In  the  loreiRu  bviameaft^ioieKs  olXs*a- 


i         na 
^■'tei 

m 


O&PANBSE/TOOD  * 

bfMand  Eokfl  tlie  pleMiDc  oiwtoa  M  tbOowed  ol  MniagteM 
ywiwgw«BdMiUcto«Miaorew»t*Fj[.«iid  toidtoMerar 

WMMui  to  be  m  the  pmmuM  ftt  that  jUme. 
jlHnl«  will  find  tike  following  Uat  ot  native  diahM  lUeful 
m«  diokis  Kt  nativB  inaa  ^  rsBtaurazda;  additional  words 
liHWoana  in  tibe  Tooabularr  at  p.  cxxx: 

CUdMi  (lorQ.  Irt-tori:  chieken  boiled  and  aerred  witJi 
«|»*iliU[  iMl.^— roK-fortrroafltahioken.— rorJTMfte.'chictMi 
itMid  fai  a  k«tlJ«  or  fried  in  a  pan. 

Fish  (nofcono).  Ni-zakana:  cooked  or  boiled  fish.  —  Sui- 
nona:  fiBh-aoup.  —  Shioyaki:  fiah  salted,  then  baked.  — 
reriyojtt;  fish  in  a  sauce  of  soy,  mirm,  and  sugar. — Su-jio- 
mma:  Bhell-fiah  (or  other  raw  fish)  eaten  with  vinegar.  — 
ATai:  raw  fish  washed  in  cold  water  or  chilled  with  ice.  — 
AfomosTi;  the  same  aerved  with  vinegar  and  cold  stewed  vege- 
tables. —  Saekimi:  raw  fish  cut  in  thin  slices  and  eaten  after 
being  dipped  in  skoyu.  —  Kabayaki:  fiah  which  is  first  Bteamod. 
UieD  dipped  into  aoy  and  roasted  (or  eels  cut  open  on  the  dorsal 
line,  covered  with  soy  mixed  with  sugar,  and  roasted).  The 
latter  dish,  usually  called  Unagi-iu>-kabayakij  is  a  favorite 
with  the  Japanese,  and  is  usually  prepared  specially  in  restau- 
itntavhichows  their  fame  to  its  savory  quality  (and  are  often 
eels  are  served).  Unoj^i-nieaki 
Kvered  with  bits  of  roaat  eel.  — 
1  with  salt  and  sake,  rolled 
d'  from  its  resemblance  to  the 
onica).  Tempura:  fried  fish; 

.  _, iempura,  or  fish-fritters  (of  a 

■ivt  of  trout),  make  a  widely  popular  dish  in  which  some  aa- 
Hn  eooki  excel.  Some  of  the  most  popular  restaurants  in 
TOkf  0  (and  elseiriiere)  are  those  at  which  this  is  the  only  dish 
ponded.  — Sbi  no  tompuro.'  fried  shrimps.  —  Tempura-toba: 
iibMri  (a  bnokwheat  vennicelli)  mixed  with  fried  fish.  -^ 
Bteki-iakatia:  a  large  fish  salted  and  broiled,  or  boiled  in  ea^. 
—  Umau:  fAtked-ap  fiah  or  fowl  boiled  (wiUi  lotus-roota  and 
ntitoes)  in  eoy  and  flavored  with  minn.  —  0-kira:  boiled 
Wfioating  in  aoup  or  served  alone. 

dp  (famaoo).  TamagoyaM:  egm  beaten,  mixed  with  salt 
udsngor,  and  cooked  in  the  form  oTan  omelette. — Tavtoi^olo- 
&  vennicdll  (or  other  food)  covered  with  beaten  eggs,  then 
Ddled  into  a  kind  of  soup.  —  Irl4amago:  eggs  stirred,  then 
bailed  in  iftovu.  —  Ude-tamiigo:  steam^  eggs. — Han^uku: 
KA-lxnled  flsga. — JVom»-no-faimoflo.-  raw  eggs. — Tamago  no 
ttefctbeyplSof  an^Eg. —  T'amofDfuisUromi/tbewhibeof  an 
(gg.  —  Tamagano  kant:  eggshell. 

(niliu;vahi;ifvil'nabejetc.).  l78AwM6e.'stewedb«et.— 
hashed  meat.  —  Beiebteak  is  usually  pTOiio\mce& 


dvi  JAPANESE  POOD 

Rice  (comp.  p.  ex)  is  called  by  many  names:  menBaymeshi 
a  more  polite  term  is  gezen;  and  the  cultured  term  (used  b; 
ladies)  is  gohan.  Foreigners  soon  grow  fond  of  the  unusuaU; 
excellent  native  rice,  which  is  cooked  in  such  a  way  that  ever; 
grain  retains  its  integrity,  yet  each  is  just  sticky  enough  to  pner 
mit  a  mass  to  be  lifted  easily  with  chop-sticks  without  droppini 
a  grain.  Azuki-meshi :  rice  and  red  pea-beans  mixed  (boilecO  *— 
Mochi:  small  dough-cakes  made  of  rice  and  sold  throughou 
Japan. — Siishi:  a  general  name  for  food  of  boiled  rice  and  fisli 
eggs,  vegetables,  etc.,  seasoned  with  vinegar  and  soy.  As  ai 
amx  the  form  is  changed  into  zushi.  —  Chirashi-zusni:  boile< 
rice  relished  with  salt  and  vinegar,  and  mixed  with  cooked  fisb 
eggs,  vegetables,  etc.,  chopped  fine. — Hako-zushi:  the  abov 
placed  in  a  wood  box  and  pressed.  —  Inarv-zuahi:  fried  <o/i 
stuffed  with  chirashi-zushi.  —  Maki-zushi:  boiled  rice  an< 
other  vegetables  rolled  and  wrapped  in  a  sheet  of  the  seawee< 
called  Asakuaor-nori,  —  Mushi-zushi:  a  kind  of  chiraahi-zush 

Eut  in  a  porcelain  bowl  and  steamed.  —  Nigiri-zushi:  a  ball  o 
oiled  rice  seasoned  with  salt  and  vinegar,  and  covered  with  \ 
piece  of  pickled  fish  or  something  of  the  kind.  —  Funa-zushi 
carp  (Juno)  in  boiled  rice  seasoned  with  vinegar  and  salt  (; 
specialty  of  the  Province  of  Omi) .  —  Komhu-zushi:  fish  seas 
oned  with  vinegar  and  wrapped  in  a  piece  of  the  edible  sea 
weed  known  asLaminaria  japonica,  A  differentiation  of  thi 
popular  food  is  the  Komhumaki:  baked  or  roasted  fish  wrapper 
m  komhu,  then  tied,  and  boiled  in  sugar  and  soy. 

Various.  —  Chawan-mushi:  a  popular  stew  (or  thick  cue 
tardy  soup)  of  eggs,  fish  (or  chicken) ,  and  vegetables  mixed.  — 
Chawan:  literalhr  a  tea-cup,  but  meaning  a  thin  fish  soup  witl 
mushrooms.  —  fsukudani:  small  fish  boiled  in  soy  and  used  a 
a  relish  or  condiment  (named  for  Tsukudajima,  a  place  ii 
T6ky5  famous  for  its  preparation).  —  Oden:  a  stew  (greatl; 
enjoyed  by  the  proletariat)  of  fried  bean-curd,  lotus-roots 
potatoes,  etc.  —  Kuchitori:  a  side-dish  or  dessert  of  confec 
tionery  (boiled  sweet  chestnuts,  a  sweet  omelette,  or  th 
like).  —  Aemono:  a  salad  of  bean-sauce  or  pounded  sesamuc 
seeds.  — Kd-no^mono:  pickled  daikon.  egg-plant,  cabbage 
or  the  like.  —  Shiruko:  rice-cakes  boilea  in,  and  covered  witl 
an  (crushed  beans  sweetened  with  sugar).  —  Imagawayak'i 
wheaten  dough  stuffed  with  bean-sugar  and  baked  on  a  coppe 
pan ;  the  name  is  derived  from  Imagawa-hashiy  Tokyo,  where  i 
was  first  made.  The  article  is  popular  with  children  of  th 
commonalty.  Foreigners  should  be  careful  that  it  is  mad 
properly,  as  the  metropolitan  newspapers  reported  recentl; 
the  poisoning  of  over  a  hundred  persons  who  had  eaten  th 
cake  made  at  a  wayside  shop.  —  Sembei:  a  cracknel  (or  nativ 
cookie)  made  of  rice  or  wheaten  flour;  when  salt  is  added  it  i 
eaVed  s^iO'Sembei, 

Ame,  a  starch-^ugai  mixed  with  dextime  aiid  ^ater,  Is 


JAPANESE  HOUSES  idvH 

Sopular  sweet  and  comes  to  market  in  the  form  of  mideu  (or 
uid)  amey  a  very  thick  yellow  syrup  (like  honey) ;  and  a 
douphy  substance  flavored  to  the  taste.  Both  are  sold  in  con- 
fectionery shops.  The  latter  is  popular  among  foreigners. 

Soup  {shiru),  Tofu-iiru:  bean-curd  soup.  —  Miso^ihiru: 
bean-soup  with  vegetables. 

Beverages.   Sake  and  beer  are  popular.  —  Tamagozdke: 

rog  made  by  stirring  beaten  eggs  and  sweetened  sake  over  a 
fire.  —  Tamagoyu:  a  milder  form  of  the  above  composed 
of  beaten  eggs,  hot  water,  and  sugar.  Generally  speaking,  the 
Japanese  are  a  sober  people,  and  drunkenness  is  not  a  na- 
tional vice. 

Houses  (ie;  uchi;  etc.)-  The  ordinary  Japanese  dwelling  is 
acellarless,  box-like  structure  destitute  of  architectural  char^ 
acter,  but  is  oftentimes  graceful  and  dainty.  It  pleases  the 
Japanese  as  much  as  it  displeases  some  foreigners.  The  former 
regard  it  as  like  the  good  wine  that  needs  no  bush.  The  latter 
have  anathematized  it  in  many  languages.  The  famous  critic, 
^.  RHUf  has  this  to  say  of  it:  — 

'In  the  architecture  and  internal  arrangement  of  their 
dwellings  the  Japanese  have  not  developed  so  much  talent  and 
taste  as  in  many  other  things;  yet  even  here  we  cannot  fail  to 
remark  a  commendable  sense  of  cleanliness.  The  Japanese 
house  lacks  chiefly  solidity  and  comfort,  and  therefore  two  of 
the  fundamental  conditions  which  we  are  accustomed  to  re- 
quire in  every  house:  solidity,  inasmuch  as  it  is  slightly  con- 
structed, of  wood  and  other  inflammable  materials,  and  is  in  a 
high  degree  exposed  to  destruction  by  fire  and  water;  comfort, 
since  it  is  without  furniture,  and  provides  no  sufficient  protec- 
tion against  cold,  damp,  and  smoke.  These  three  things,  to 
which  we  must  add  evil  odors  from  the  sanitary  arrangements, 
the  hardly  ever  absent  rats,  and  sometimes  also  fleas  and 
mosquitoes,  are  the  frequent  torments  of  the  traveler,  in  a 
Japanese  hostelry. 

'The  generality  of  houses  throughout  the  country  are  built 
upon  one  common  plan ;  but  the  size  and  fineness  of  the  ma- 
terials employed,  varies.  The  ordinary  dwelling-house  is  alto- 
gether calculated  for  a  family  of  4  or  5  persons,  and  agreeabl v 
with  the  modest  means  and  requirements  of  its  owner,  is  small 
and  simple,  and  as  it  can  be  erected  for  a  few  hundred  yen^  it  of 
course  presents  a  common,  poverty-stricken  aspect,  without 
any  decoration  or  convenient  fittings.   How  far  this  style  of 
bmlding  has  been  determined  and  limited  by  the  frequent 
occurrence  of  violent  earthquakes  and  disastrous  fires,  it  is 
difficult  to  say.  The  chief  building  materials  are  furnished  by 
various  pines  and  firs,  and  for  the  better  class  of  houses,  by 
eryptomerias.  The  Japanese  house  is  a  low  building,  oi  on^  ox 
two  stories^  of  light  framework,  without  foundation,  aiidmXXi 


odviil  HOUSES  AND  TATAMI 

a  heavy  roof.  The  latter  is  supported  on  wooden  posts  resting 
on  unhewn  stones.  Its  main  supporters  are  strong  beams, 
which  are  caref  uUy  fitted  together.  The  roof  leans  at  an  obtuse 
angle,  as  a  rule  overhangs  considerably,  is,  in  the  case  of  dwell- 
ing-houses, simple,  in  the  case  of  temples  and  old  castles  gen- 
erally turned  upwards  toward  the  edge  as  in  Chinese  pagodas, 
in  the  villages  still  for  the  most  part  covered  with  straw,  in  the 
towns  with  shingles  or  tiles.  There  can  be  no  question  that  in 
the  construction  and  covering  of  their  roofs  the  Japanese  dis- 
plav  great  skill,  and  that  the  thick  tile  or  straw  roof  has  a  care 
and.  attention  bestowed  upon  it  which  we  frequently  miss  else- 
where. Parallel  to,  and  behind  the  row  of  posts  erected  at 
intervals  of  about  6  ft. ,  upon  which  the  roof  rests,  runs  again  a 
second  row.  The  interval  of  3  ft.  between  the  two  is  intended 
for  a  veranda.  As  soon  as  the  heavy  roof  rests  upon  these  posts 
and  the  beams  connecting  them,  the  carpenter  (daiku)  has 
done  his  work  and  the  finer  workmanship  of  the  cabinet-maker 
Uashi-^mono-ya)  begins.  The  house,  therefore,  without  a  foun- 
dation, and  resting  upon  the  corner-stones  from  2  to  3  ft.  above 
the  ground,  is  to  some  extent  in  the  air,  though  it  is  not  uncom- 
mon to  add  a  wall  afterwards  or  to  cover  in  the  spaces  between 
the  corner-stones  with  planking. 

*  The  size  of  the  rooms,  indeed  the  whole  ground-plan  of  the 
houses,  is  determined  by  the  tatamif^  or  rush  mats,  with  which 
the  boarded  floors  are  covered.  They  form,  without  exception, 
right  angles  of  6  ft.  in  length,  and  3  ft.  in  breadth,  and  are 
padded  on  the  under  side  to  a  thickness  of  an  inch  or  more  with 
straw  matwork  of  coarse  stuff,  and  bound  at  the  edges  with 
strips  of  stuff.  In  accordance  with  these,  rooms  of  4,  6, 8, 10, 
12,  etc..  mats  are  spoken  of.  The  average  height  of  the  rooms  is 
from  7i  to  9  ft.  They  are  separated  from  one  another  by  /u- 
8U7na  partitions,  which  may  be  opened  or  removed  altogether. 
These  are  frames  or  shutters  of  the  size  of  the  tatamiy  covered 
on  both  sides  with  stout  wall-paper  or  A^raA;ami  (in  well-to-do 
houses  even  with  gold  paper),  and  running  between  grooved 
beams.  The  space  of  from  2  to  4  ft.  broad  between  the  upper 
cross-beam  which  bounds  such  a  partition  wall  and  the  roof  is 
either  closed  and  painted  blue,rose-colored,  or  white,or  is  fitted 
with  fine  and  artistically  carved  open  woodwork.  Besides  the 
divisions  of  the  rooms  Just  mentioned,  which  is  involved  in  the 
plan  of  the  house,  there  is  another  still  more  movable  division, 
produced  by  beautiful  folding  screens  {hyobu) .   The  Japanese 

^  The  best  tatami  are  made  of  wara,  or  riee^traw»  closely  bound  and 
braided  together,  constituting  their  toko,  or  bed;  they  are  fastened  at  the 
borders  with  strips  of  cloth  (silk  in  the  case  of  mats  for  the  Imperial  house- 
hold), and  covered  and  hela  fast  by  beautifully  woven  rush  matfi  on  the 

Mr  aide  (omote).    The  Loochoo  Isi     ' 

ikBhiit  and  above  all  Bingo  (in  i 
injE  provinces,  are  celebrated  tor  1 
waJaed  most,  being  dearer  and  handsomer  than  those  of  Bungo,  but  leas 


upper  side  (omoie).    The  Loochoo  Islands^  Bungo  and  other  provinces  of 
Kyikakii,  and  above  all  Bingo  (in  Hiroshima  Prefecture)  and  the  neighbor- 
provinces,  are  celebrated  tor  their  rushes  and  mats.   Bingo-omote  are 


HOUSES  AND  HIBACHI  zliz 

fooms  receive  their  light  through  the  ahiyji.  These  are  shutters 
tomething  like  thefiiauTna,  but  are  converted  by  finely  planed 
laths,  running  lengthways  and  crossways,  into  a  network  of 
flquares,  over  which  tough  transparent  paper  is  pasted  from  the 
outside.  The  shoji,  therefore,  represent  our  windows. 

'  The  veranda  is  open  throughout  the  day  in  fine  weather,  as 
are  the  rooms  looking  upon  the  street :  but  in  the  evening  and 
inniny  weather,  is  closed  by  the  so-called  rain-doors  (amddo), 
to  protect  the  house  from  intruders  and  the  paper  panes  from 
becoming  wet.  This  protection  consists  of  boards  running  in 
poovesi  and  fastened  from  within  by  a  bolt  in  the  last  of  them. 
If  any  one  desires  admission  into  an  ordinary  house,  he  goes 
np  to  the  shutter-door  and  calls  out,  **  Gomen-nasai!  *^  (I  beg 
your  pardon) ;  or,  less  politely, '  *  Moshi.  moahi /  "  (I  say,  I  say !) 
and  also  dapNB  his  hands,  upon  which  the  door  is  opened.  The 
best  rooms  are  always  f  oimd  at  the  back  of  the  house,  where 
the  veranda  leads  into  ithe  little  garden.  At  the  side,  and 
reached  from  the  veranda  by  a  boarded  passage,  is  placed  the 
doset.  Toward  the  street  generally  lies  the  living-room  of  the 
family,  and  not  unfrequently  also  the  kitchen,  which,  like  the 
rest  of  the  house,  is  without  a  chimney,  so  that  the  usual  fuel — 
charcoal  prepared  from  oak  and  chestnut  wood  —  sometimes 
fills  all  the  dwelling-rooms  with  smoke,  and  not  unfrequently 
affects  the  cleanliness  here  prevailing. 

,  'The  Japanese  rooms  lack  sufficient  privacy  and  anything 
like  comfort.  We  miss  in  them  chairs  and  tables,  beds  and 
other  things.  The  native  does  not  need  them.  He  leaves  his  geta 
orzonat  the  door,  so  as  not  to  soil  the  beautiful  mats,  and  is 
nevermore  comfortable  than  when  resting  upon  his  knees  and 
heels.  There  are  but  two  articles  of  furniture  indispensable  to 
him  —  the  hibachi  and  the  tahaJco'honf  i.e..  the  fire-basin  and 
the  tobacco-tray.  The  hibachi  is  a  portaole  apparatus  con- 
sisting of  a  roimd  brazen  or  bronze  bowl,  or  a  wooden  box,  lined 
with  fireproof  cla^  along  the  margin,  and  wood-ashes  in  the 
middle,  upon  which  are  placed  glowing  wood  embers.   The 
tabako^on  is  a  tray  with  a  similar  arrangement  of  glowing 
coal,  and  a  spittoon,  instead  of  which  a  piece  of  bamboo-cane  is 
often  employed.  The  hibachi  serves  the  purpose  of  lighting  a 
pipe  as  well  as  of  giving  warmth.    For  the  latter  purpose  the 
older  arrangement,  the  kotatsu.  a  large  square  opening  in  the 
floor,  which  is  half  filled  with  nreproof  clay  and  wood-ashes, 
like  a/ti^ocAi,  and  has  in  the  middle  a  little  heap  of  glowing 
coals,  seems  better  adapted.  Near  it,  the  inmates  of  the  house, 
covering  themselves  with  quilted  mattresses,  seek  protection 
against  the  cold  of  the  long  winter  nights.    In  many  rooms, 
especially  in  the  finest,  the  one  fixed  wall  forms  a  sort  of  recess. 
The  one  half  of  it  is  called  tokonoma.  The  floor  of  the  room  ia 
We  raised  from  2  to  4  inches  high,  for  a  width  of  from  24  to 
90  iaehes,  and  frequently  has  placed  upon  it  two  vasea  m\i\x 


1  JAPANESE  HOUSES 

flowering  branches  of  some  favorite  plant;  between  them  for- 
meriy  stood  the  katana-kake,  or  sword-rest.  The  wall  behind 
it  is  decorated  with  a  kakemono.  The  second  half  of  the  wall 
forms  a  bay,  occupied  by  small  cupboards  with  sliding  doors, 
and  black  lacquered  chests,  to  receive  the  bedding,  which  is 
only  taken  out  immediately  before  bedtime.  This  consists  of 
(1)  the  futon  J  or  mattress,  tightly  stuffed  with  cotton  or  silk 
wadding;  (2)  the  kaimakij  or  night-dress,  a  sort  of  caftan  with 
wide  sleeves,  which  in  winter  is  also  stoutly  wadded;  and 
(3)  the  makurat  or  pillow.  This  is  a  small  stool  without  feet, 
havinp  a  crescent-shaped  piece  cut  out,  and  covered  by  a  pil- 
low-slip of  paper  or  cotton.  Covered  with  the  kaimaki  (in 
which  the  neas  are  said  to  make  themselves  very  much  at 
home),  stretched  upon  the  futon,  which  is  spread  out  immedi- 
ately on  the  tatami  (also  said  to  be  a  happy  hunting-ground  for 
nomi),  resting  with  the  back  of  the  neck  in  the  saddle  of  the 
makura  (the  adamantine  rigidity  of  which  is  distressing  to  for- 
eigners), the  Japanese  enjoys  his  repose,  while  the  extended 
mosquito-net  shelters  him  from  the  omnipresent  ka. 

'The  rooms  are  illuminated  at  night  by  paper  lamps  (andon) 
or  roaoku  (candles  of  vegetable  tallow) ,  and  by  a  large  standing 
paper  lantern  in  which  the  andon  burns  quietly.  Electric  lights 
and  kerosene  lamps  are  now  commonly  used  in  the  larger  cities. 
In  one  room  of  every  Japanese  house  is  the  domestic  altar, 
kami-danaf  or  sacred  shrine,  a  wooden  Shinto  temple  in  mini- 
ature, in  which,  among  other  things,  are  kept  little  tablets 
bearing  the  names  of  the  gods,  before  which  the  master  of  the 
house  every  day  performs  his  devotions.  The  space  between 
the  boarded  and  papered  ceiling  and  the  roofs  of  houses  is  usu- 
ally inhabited  by  rats,  which  at  night  visit  the  sleeping-rooms, 
devour  the  stearine  candles,  and  otherwise  make  themselves 
troublesome.  In  the  country  the  houses  are  for  the  most  part 
detached,  while  in  the  towns  one  wooden  structure  immedi- 
ately succeeds  another,  which  causes  a  great  risk  from  fire. 
Apart  from  this  the  construction  of  the  Japanese  house  is  un- 
doubtedly ill-adapted  to  the  climate.  Though  it  secures  cool, 
airy  apartments  in  the  heat  of  summer,  during  the  much  longer 
cold  winter,  it  affords  no  adequate  protection  against  the  cold 
air  which  everywhere  penetrates  through  the  joints  and 
chinks. 

*  The  slight  structures  in  which  trades-folk  carry  on  their 
business,  are  wooden  edifices,  generally  of  2  stories  and  occa- 
sionally of  3,  their  front  room  completely  exposed  to  the  street, 
or  separated  from  it  by  a  curtain  formed  of  strips  of  linen,  ana 
their  back  rooms  opening,  by  means  of  paper-covered  sliding- 
doors,  on  a  miniature  garden.  At  night  these  houses  are  her- 
metically sealed  by  wooden  sliding-aoors,  so  that  whatever 
might  be  claimed  for  their  method  of  construction  as  allowing 
the  atmosphere  to  percolate  freely  during  the  daytime,  they 


JAPANESE  HOUSES  U 

beoome  oppressively  close  and  insanitary  when  closed  for  the 
night  Strange  to  say,  too.  the  members  of  the  family  seldom, 
and  the  servants  never,  sleep  in  the  second  story,  where  air 
mif^t  be  admitted  without  giving  access  to  thieves.  Thus,  for 
Bome  at  any  rate  of  its  inmates,  a  Japanese  residence  is  alwa^rs 
enentially  unwholesome  in  summer  owing  to  defective  venti- 
lation. Further,  it  promotes  immodesty  and  therefore  im- 
morality; for  in  its  stifling  atmosphere  all  covering  at  night 
becomes  unendurable,  while,  at  the  same  time,  paper  sliding- 
doon  are  quite  ineffective  to  segregate  one  room  from  another. 
Yet  another  grave  defect  of  the  Japanese  house  is  that  it  acts 
like  a  cupping-machine  to  draw  up  noxious  vapors  from  the 
nil  For  tne  floors  being  closely  constructed  so  as  to  prevent 
the  overlaid  mats  from  decaying,  and  the  groimd  imdemeath 
being  left  in  its  natural  state,  its  miasmal  exhalations  find 
ready  access  to  the  chambers  above.  Neither  can  it  truly  be 
said  that  a  Japanese  house  is  remarkable  for  cleanliness.  It 
certainly  looks  clean,  because  the  neat  matSj  the  well-polished 
veranda,  the  knotless  timbers,  and  the  white  paper  give  an 
impression  of  purity  and  careful  preservation.  But  these  very 
ouits  which  contribute  so  greatly  to  the  general  effect*  of  tidi- 
ness are  incomparable  dirt  trai>s.  They  are  not  removed  for 
cleaning  purposes  more  than  twice  a  year,  in  many  houses  not 
more  than  once,  and  an  almost  incredible  quantity  of  dirt  is 
thus  found  to  have  accumulated  beneath  them  and  in  their 
interstices.  So  long,  however,  as  the  Japanese  sits  and  sleeps 

ri  the  floor,  he  must  have  mats.  Andhe  must  also  have  the 
coal-burning  brazier,  which  is  undoubtedly  an  imwhole- 
some  element  in  his  life,  whether  he  bends  over  it  inhaling  its 
carbonic-acid  fumes,  or  places  it  under  his  quilt  to  warm  his 
feet.' 

The  anka,  a  small  box  in  which  live  charcoal  is  kept,  and 
which  is  put  under  the  futons  in  winter,  is  unhealthy,  and 
besides  simocating  manv  babies,  is  said  to  be  responsible  for 
25%  of  the  fires  which  devastate  the  cities  with  such  appall- 
ing frequency.  The  flimsy  character  of  the  average  house  is 
demonstrated  in  these  fires,  which  burn  by  thousands.    As  a 
nde  more  attention  is  paid  to  satin-surfaced  boards  and  care- 
ful joinery  in  a  native  house  than  to  hygiene  or  solidity.    For- 
eign influence  is,  however,  producing  a  great  change  in  the 
architecture  of  the  larger  cities ;  the  employment  of  bricks  and 
iron  as  building  materials  (even  marble)  is  increasing  steadily, 
and  these  with  stone  are  replacing  wood  in  the  houses  of  those 
who  can  afford  them.  In  the  newer  structures  the  Oriental 
inheritance  expresses  itself  in  domes  and  spires,  copper- 
aheathed,  and  resembling  in  shape  those  of  Persia  and  India. 
It  is  said  that  there  is  no  danger  from  asphyxiation  where  the 
Aaa  gnules  of  charcoal  are  us^  in  the  sleeping-rooms  of  natwe 
Also  that  the  big  spiders  (kumo)  so  often  seen  axe 


lii  FURNISHED  HOUSES 

hurmle^.  The  Japanese  walls  have  not  only  ears  but  eves,  and 
the  foreigner  not  unfrequently  sees  one  of  these  looking  in- 
tently at  him  through  a  small  hole  in  the  paper  of  the  ^dji. 
Occasionally  one  may  detect  a  finger  in  the  act  of  making  sueh 
a  hole,  or  enlarging  one  already  made.  The  paper  is  fixed  to 
the  framework  so  tightly  that  when  a  hole  is  made  in  it  a  sud- 
den explosive  report  is  heard.  To  obviate  this  the  tip  of  the 
finger  is  usually  moistened,  then  a  slight  twisting  motion  en- 
ables the  hole  to  be  made  quite  noiselessly. 

Godowns  (from  the  Malay  godonQy  a  warehouse),  or  store- 
houses {dozo),  differ  from  ordinary  houses  in  that  they  are 
rendered  fireproof  by  plastered  walls.  The  prototype  of 
those  now  in  use  is  believed  to  have  become  popular  with 
Kyoto  merchants  in  the  13th  cent. 

Furnished  Houses  are  nearly  always  to  be  rented  in  cities 
like  T6ky5,  Yokohama,  or  Kobe,  and  persons  intending  to 
remain  in  Japan  for  a  long  time  may  find  them  advantageous. 
As  a  rule  they  are  let  (consult  the  daily  newspapers  for  adver- 
tisements) bv  well-to-do  foreign  residents  leaving  for  Europe 
or  Ame];ica  for  a  6-12  mont&*  fm-lough.  The  servants  and 
all  the  family  belongings  are  customarily  turned  over  to  the 
lessee,  and  one  takes  possession  of  the  house  in  the  smooth 
running  order  in  which  it  is  supposed  to  be  left  at  the  end  of 
the  stipidated  time.  In  many  cases  carriages  and  horses  are 
included.  Generally  speaking,  the  servants  are  trustworthy 
and  tractable,  and  in  cases  wncre  they  have  been  in  the  house 
for  years  and  are  left  practically  in  charge  by  the  master,  with 
instructions  to  be  on  their  good  behavior,  they  do  not  betray 
their  trust,  and  foreigners  find  the  experience  agreeable.  Such 
a  household  will  almost  run  itself,  generally  with  a  total  ab- 
sence of  care  or  worry  on  the  part  of  the  stranger,  who  may 
enter  with  his  trunks  and  find  his  bath  prepared  and  his  break- 
fast about  ready  to  serve;  and  leave  6  or  12  months  later  by 
merely  loading  his  luggage  into  a  cart  and  bidding  the  servants 

§ood-Dye.  A  well-furnished,  attractive,  detached  house  with  a 
ower-garden  can  sometimes  be  rented  completely  furnished 
and  equipped  with  servants  for  150-200  yen  a  month,  or  more 
in  proportion  to  the  size,  location,  and  furnishings.  A  retinue 
of  servants  (cook,  house-boy,  amahy  gardener,  and  coolie)  may 
cost  a  total  of  100  yen  more,  while  the  food  will  vary  with  the 
taste  and  requirements  of  the  lessee.  400-500  yen  should 
easily  cover  the  monthly  cost  of  living  (modestly)  for  2-3  per- 
sons. While  the  Japanese  pay  3-5  yen  for  a  cook ;  5-7  yen  for  a 
seamstress;  7-15  yen  for  a  good  amah,  etc.,  foreigners  are 
expected  to  pay  more.  An  experienced  Chinese  butler  will  cost 
27-30  yen  a  month;  a  good  Japanese  boy,  15-30  yen;  a  coolie, 
15  yen ;  amahy  17-20  yen;  cook  {ry5rininy  or  cook-san),  30  yen; 
coacbmfLn  (betto).  30  y^.  Carriages  can  be  rented  from  the 
livery-Btable  at  about  60  yen  a  month.  The  monthly  rate  (at 


SERVANTS  lin 

the  stable)  for  boarding  a  horse  and  keeping  the  carriage  in 
Mm  is  40  yen.  Fee  to  the  hettd,  5  yen. 

If  servants  are  well  treated  and  are  not  scolded,  they  will 
serve  one  with  extraordinary  devotion,  and  in  a  manner  that 
^11  be  a  revelation  to  Americans.  By  having  cook-san  present 
his  account  (for  all  kitchen  expenses)  at  the  end  of  the  week, 
and  submit  daily  a  list  of  the  things  he  may  like  to  have,  the 
mistress  need  never  enter  the  kitchen,  nor  know  until  sne  is 
served  what  is  to  be  placed  on  the  dining-table.  If  she  is  ex- 
pecting friends,  be  there  two  or  a  dozen,  she  has  but  to  tell  the 
cook  the  number  invited,  and  the  style  of  meal  wanted,  and  it 
will  be  served  promptly  and  in  many  cases  as  daintily  and 
sumptuously  as  the  most  exacting  could  wish.  Poverty  has 
taught  many  of  the  Japanese  an  economy  that  serves  excel- 
lently where  one  has  a  limited  income ;  while  a  natural  aptitude 
combined  with  inherent  skill  enable  many  cooks  to  prepare 
dishes  that  would  delight  the  soul  of  a  French  chef.  Servants 
prefer  their  own  food  to  that  of  the  foreigner,  and  eat  it,  the 
while  saving  all  the  left-overs  from  the  table  to  be  worked  up 
Into  attractive  and  appetizing  dishes  for  the  next  meal.  A 
housemaid^s  work  is  often  done  by  the  *  boy,'  the  amah  serving 
as  a  child's  nurse  or  as  madame's  maid. 

Persons  renting  unfurnished  houses  are  often  able  to  furnish 
them  cheaply  and  quickly  through  the  auction-sales  which  are 
a  feature  of  the  port  cities.  Foreign  residents  leaving  Japan 
dispose  of  their  belongings  through  this  medium,  or,  if  assured 
of  abetter  price,  sell  their  furnishings  complete  to  the  second- 
hand stores.  Advertisements  of  both  appear  in  the  daily  news- 
papers in  English.  Foreigners  rarely  employ  the  services  of  the 
KHan  (Employment  Agency,  or  tne  Agent)  when  they  need 
servants,  but  inquire  about  among  their  friends.  The  Keian 
habd — an  old  woman  who  makes  it  a  business  to  get  servants 
for  one — is  sometimes  useful .  A  small  present  now  and  then  to 
trusted  servants  keeps  them  contented  and  faithful. 

The  concierge,  that  bane  of  life  in  France,  the  janitor,  and 
other  necessary  evils  in  so-called  civilized  countries,  are  un- 
known in  Japan  where  the  servant  problem  is  no  problem,  and 
housekeeping  is  perhaps  easier  than  in  any  other  country  of 
the  world.  The  stranger  may  like  to  remember  that  in  Japan 
servants  regard  their  master  as  a  friend  rather  than  as  a  ty- 
rant, and  the  feeling  is  soon  reciprocated.  If  one  detects  a 
servant  in  a  fault,  it  is  better  to  have  it  out  with  the  offender 
at  once ;  for  if  one  overlooks  it,  the  result  may  prove  disastrous 
to  discipline.  The  desire  to  take  servants  home  with  one,  to 
America  or  England,  is  often  rendered  impossible  by  the 
difficulties  placed  in  the  way  (particularly  in  the  case  of 
ttnuJut)  by  the  authorities,  who  maintain  a  strict  surveiWaiiCie 
on  ill  native  women  who  leave  the  country.  InioTmaUoii 
"— •—  iiusheadis  obtainable  at  one's  consulate. 


Uv  TIPS  —  LAUNDRY 

Tips  (sohana).  The  tipping  system  has  yet  to  attain  ii 
Japan  and  on  the  Pacific  Ocean  the  shameless  tyranny  thai 
characterises  it  in  Europe  and  on  the  Atlantic.  The  ChineM 
'boys'  on  the  Canadian  Pacific  ships,  and  the  Japanese  en 
those  of  the  Toyo  Kiaen  Kaisha  are  not  permitted  to  solidl 
tips,  and  are  usually  grateful  for  much  smaller  fees  than  those 
often  demanded  by  the  greedy  and  presumptuous  servantf 
(covetous  ingrates  who  successfully  poison  the  pleasure  of  a  trip 
abroad)  on  transatlantic  liners  and  in  European  hotels.  It  ic 
customary,  but  is  not  obligatory,  to  give  the  deck-boy  on  a 
transpacific  ship  $1 ;  the  table-boy  $2 ;  cabin-boy  $2 ;  boots  $1 
bath-boy  $1;  and  the  stewardess  (if  her  services  are  com: 
manded)  $2,  —  all  in  American  monejvr.  The  9-17  days 
voyage  thus  costs  one  $9,  or  less  than  5%  of  the  regular  fare 
on  the  best  ships.  —  No  definite  schedule  has  been  applied  tc 
tipping  in  Japan^  since  many  Japanese  in  lowly  positiom 
have  too  much  pnde  to  sell  their  self-respect  for  money  thej 
have  not  earned.  When  a  Japanese  can  do  a  foreigner  a 
courteous  service,  it  is  done  usually  in  an  ungrudging  man- 
ner, and  not  for  the  sake  of  financial  reward.  The  Chinese 
'pidgins-English  cumshaw  (according  to  Giles,  the  Amojj 
pronunciation  of  Chinese  kan  seay,  'grateful  thanks')  is  the 
word  used  by  Chinese  servants  for  a  tip.  The  customary 
tip  for  a  foreigner  in  a  hotel  in  Japan  is  1  yen  a  week  to  eaco 
of  his  servants  —  table-,  room-,  and  bath-boy.  Americans 
are  gradually  upsetting  this  easily  supportable  arrangement) 
but  the  traveler  who  does  not  fee  in  excess  of  this  amount 
makes  it  easier  for  those  who  follow  him.  Many  native  serv^ 
ants  prefer  presents  {miyage)  to  tips,  as  Japan  is  '  a  land  oj 
present  making.'  It  remains  to  be  said  that  in  Japan,  blackmail 
18  never  resorted  to  to  extort  tips,  and  that  hotel  proprieton 
discountenance,  rather  than  favor,  the  giving  of  big  tips  tc 
their  servants.  The  writer  makes  it  a  point  to  abide  by  no  ar 
bitrary  rule  fixed  by  any  hotel  or  steamship  company,  but  tc 
fee  in  strict  accordance  with  the  service  rendered.  Tips  are  noi 
expected  by  railway-men  and  a  host  of  others  to  whom  they  arc 
given  in  Europe,  and  lea^t  of  all  by  Japanese  holding  official 
positions  of  any  kind.  Pride  of  race  and  position  often  extendi 
to  the  lowest  among  the  Japanese,  and  on  this  lower  runs  of  the 
social  ladder  the  native  shioboletn  of  courtesy  and  help? ulnesE 
is  oftentimes  the  most  in  evidence. 

Laundry  (seniaku)  is  done  excellently  and  at  reasonable 
prices  by  Japanese  women.  In  some  of  the  country  villages, 
where  starch  is  unobtainable,  the  work  is  apt  to  be  unsatisfa& 
tory,  but  in  the  port  cities  it  is  done  better  (and  much  cheaper] 
than  in  America.  Residents  customarily  pay  4  yen  for  lOQ 
pieces  irrespective  of  size  —  handkerchiefs  and  collars  being 
counted  the  same  as  skirts  or  shirt-waists  or  coats.  The  hote£ 
charge  from  5  to  6  yen  per  100,  and  some  will  present  lists  at  so 


PLAN  OF  TOUR  Iv 

ii 

much  per  piece,  thuB  making  the  cost  considerably  higher.  If 
the  traveler  finds  the  steam  laundries  (serUc^uya)  patronized 
by  certain  of  the  hotels  too  destructive,  he  will  save  both  his 
wid  clothing  and  money  by  obtaining  from  some  resident  the 
luune  of  a  good  laundress. 

]>•  Plan  of  Tour.    Tourist  Societies.    Climate.    Seasons. 
Health.  What  to  Wear.  Hints  to  Travelers. 

Plan  of  Tour.  Of  the  fifteen  thousand  or  more  tourists  who 
visit  Japan  each  year  and  collectively  spend  50  million  yen 
th^e,  too  many  content  themselves  with  treading  the  beaten 
tracks  of  travel;  some  because  limited  for  time;  others  be- 
caufle  of  the  prevalent  belief  that  to  penetrate  to  the  interior 
without  a  gwde  is  impracticable  and  is  fraught  with  many  dis- 
comforts; and  still  others  who  think  that  a  few  of  the  places  . 
contiguous  to  the  coast  exhaust  the  sights  of  the  Empire.  The 
Ideas  of  one  traveler  as  to  what  is  and  is  not  worth  seeing  are 
Kkely  to  be  so  at  variance  with  those  of  another  that  it  is  difiB- 
colt,  if  not  impossible,  to  plan  a  tour  that  would  fulfill  the 
requirements,  or  meet  with  the  approval,  of  even  a  limited 
number  of  persons  of  different  temperaments  and  aims.   In 
▼iew  of  the  long  journey  most  travelers  must  make  to  reach 
hpasi,  they  should,  in  justice  to  themselves,  visit  as  many  as 
poasible  of  the  places  really  worth  seeing.  Wlule  it  is  manifestly 
mpossible  to  estimate  correctly  the  taste  of  every  traveler  as 
rcf^irds  meritorious  sights,  it  should  be  remembered  that 
Japanese  ideas  of  what  is  beautiful  often  clash  with  those  of 
Occidentals,  who  should  take  with  a  large  grain  of  salt  many 
of  the  flamboyant  eulogies  of  places  set  forth  in  certain  of  the 
local  guidebooks.  It  may  be  accepted  as  a  safe  axiom  that  a 
liberal  percentage  of  the  above-mentioned  places  are  not  worth 
the  time,  money,  or  effort  spent  in  reaching  them.    The  con- 
stant aim  of  the  writer  has  been  to  point  out  and  describe  the 
localities  and  objects  worth  seeing,  and  to  advise  the  traveler 
against  others. 

There  is  no  dearth  of  things  which  one  ought  to  see  in  Japan, 
for  it  is  a  wonderland  in  the  broadest  sense  of  the  word.  It  is  a 
felicitous  blend  of  the  cold  Northland  and  the  warm  semi- 
tropics;  of  Norway  and  New  Zealand;  of  the  languorous, lotus- 
eatmg  Orient,  and  the  virile,  materialistic  Occident.  It  is  a 
region  of  striking  contrasts  and  puzzling  contradictions,  with  a 
fascination  peculiarly  its  own  —  one  which  grows  rather  than 
palls  upon  one.  Here  the  pine  and  the  bamboo  —  emblems  of 
willowy  grace  and  of  somber  strength  —  thrive  side  by  side, 
and  here  the  old  and  the  new — the  10th  and  the  20th  centuries 
—  are  so  strangely  and  inextricably  blended  that  to  separate 
the  fusion  were  impossible.  Barnyard  fowls  with  tails  \4  It. 
loo^  and  qbU  wfthovt  tails;  womm  with  jet-black  teet\i  anA 


I 


PLAN  OF  TOUR 

I  eyebrawe;  ehaven-pated  babiee  and  boQEes;  bi^< 

dbantam  chickens;  dwarf  trees  and  othera  that,  n 

brothers  to  the  giant  aequo iaa  of  the  Panifio  Coast  of  America, 
give  one  an  inkling  of  its  grotesqueriea  —  as  do  the  charn^ 
people  themaelvea,  melancholy  by  inslinct  and  inheritance, 
yet  with  faces  almost  perpotuully  wreathed  in  ainiles.  In  few 
countries  of  the  world  is  nature  so  pitilessly  savage,  yet  withal 
eo  delightful,  and  in  few  does  ahe  express  her  elemental  pas- 
riona,  and  varying  moods  in  so  remarkable  a  way.  Roanng, 
sereeching  volcanoes  that  vomit  their  scorching  wrath  ovei 
miles  of  peaceful  vatley-land,  and  eometimea  shake  the  Eni- 
pire  to  itB  foundationa  by  their  internal  and  ceaselesa  con- 
flicts, dot  the  country  from  frigid  Yezo  at  the  N.  to  warm  Sot 
8UWO  at  the  8.,  yet  some  of  them  rise  skyward  in  cones  so 
graceful  and  eo  t^nderl^beautiful  that  thousandsof  pilgrims 
from  the  remotest  limits  of  the  realm  believe  them  em- 
bodied spirits,  and  come  with  travelers  from  all  parts  of  the 
world,  to  worship  and  ascend  them.  On  their  flower-decked 
flanks,  warmed  by  the  subterranean  flres  which  seem  never 
to  grow  cold,  are  some  of  the  quaintest  health  resorts  im- 
aginable; perched  like  eagles'  nests  amid  ancient  groves  of 
noble  cryptomerias,  grotesque  pines,  and  myriad  deciduoUB 

t  trees  whence  one  maj>  look  down  past  smiling,  sunlit  plains 
and  valleys  to  blue,  junk-flecked  seas  eo  beautiful  that  one 
stands  spellbound  at  sight  of  them. 
Plunging  rivers  that  form  splendid  waterfalls,  cascades,  and 
rapids,  and  inland  seas  and  I  akcs  so  charming  that  those  of  few 
countries  of  the  globe  can  aspire  to  vie  with  tnem,  are  frequent 
features  of  the  Islands;  in  -whose  ancient  groves  sit  gigantic 
bronze  Buddhas  and  barb&rically  splendid  Buddhist  templee 
erected  more  than  a  millenium  ago,  when  savage  hordes  ranged 
from  the  Big  Horn  to  Peru,  and  time  had  yet  to  mark  three 
hundred  years  before  Columbus  could  be  born.  A  list  of  the 
many  cunona  places  in  Japan  would  read  almost  like  a  compil- 
ation from  the  Arabian  Nights.  Miniature  Niagaras,  Yosem- 
ilea,  ^d  Yellowstones;  duplicates  of  the  Terraces  of  Neir 
Zealand  and  the  Hill  Stations  of  India,  are  scattered  promia- 
cuously  throughout  the  islands,  where  the  Black  Fellows  of 
Australia  are  replaced  by  the  hairy  Ainus  of  Yeio,  and  the 
shrinesof/se.of  K^a-ean,andascorcof  othera  recall  Ihoseof 
Iiourdes  and  Arabia,  Benares,  and  Guadalupe.  Miniature 
surface  volcanoes  which  throw  out  boiling  mud,  scalding 
water,  and  blistering  steam,  whose  environing  crusts  areso 
thin  and  unstable  that  an  unusual  pressure  of  the  foot  precipi- 
tates the  unwary  into  seething  iires  below;  whistling,  sputtei- 
iuftspitefiil  geysers,  sulphuriefumaroles, lakes  of  boilingamd, 
gorges  reeking  of  pest  if  erouB  iume.s  tWt  coroc&VtKi^tVitHo"^ 
infernal  regioBS  —  all  theBRVet\lftVi\e\iB\\-Vi\,c\iei»4arewiwnBr 
aJOfl  timt  titejwveely  oalVior  apoewi  mmi&Qtt-  »oVnito 


PLAN  OF  TOUR  Ivii 

Qoently  the  traveler  in  Japan  oomes  to  some  specifically  vol- 
Moio  region  where  the  people  of  an  entire  village  cook  their 
ibod  in  surface  holes  msMde  in  the  thin  and  treacherous  crust 
viiieh  forms  their  earth ;  in  others  he  will  be  lulled  to  sleep  by 
the  muffled  groaning  of  some  grouchy  volcano  and  awake  to 
find  the  house-roof  white  with  the  ashes  or  the  sm^l  stones 
viiieh  the  uneasy  monster  has  spewed  out  in  the  ni^t. 

Ashes  sometimes  fall  in  T5ky5  from  the  volcanoes  at  the 
W.and  N.y  and  in  dozens  of  native  villages  the  street  eutters 
ran  perpetually  with  steaming  water  that  spurts  boiling 
bom  the  adjacent  m«untain-side  and  leaves  a  trail  of  iron-rust 
or  a  eoat  oi  sulphiur-plush  wherever  it  goes.  In  such  places 
jMably  IkaOf  ICuscUaUf  etc. ;  see  the  index)  the  water  is  piped 
into  the  houses,  where  it  pours  direct  into  the  primitive  baths, 
and  thus  enables  the  stranger  to  get  a  bit  nearer  to  nature's 
hnrt  than  he  has  perchance  been  before.  On  misting  days, 
iHm  the  clouds  huig  low  and  prevent  the  steam  from  rising, 
nrtain  of  these  towns  look  like  transplanted  bits  of  the  infer- 
nal region,  and  the  low-hanging  stench  of  plutonian  sulphur 
fimes  which  brood  above  them  do  not  detract  from  the  simile, 
fiere,  too,  as  well  as  in  many  similar  places  in  Japan,  one  may 
iritness  the  somewhat  curious  and  unusual  (to  Occidentals) 
ipsctacle  of  scores  of  men  and  women,  old  and  young,  plump 
nd  wrinkled,  charming  and  otherwise,  bathing  promiscuously , 
but  overstepping  in  no  wise  the  modesty  of  nature.  There  are 
many  such  bathi  in  Japan;  at  Beppu  one  may  see  almost  any 
mnnDer  of  innocent  nude  bathers  stretched  on  the  beach,  with 

£68  of  healing  sand  scattered  over  them;  while  in  the  adjacent 
th-houses  the  scene  is  decidedly  haremesque.  At  some  of  the 
hotrspring  resorts  in  the  mountains,  the  near-by  gorges  ring 
and  echo  ceaselessly  to  the  pulsing  and  thumping  of  suppressed 
natural  forces.  The  sputtering,  blistering  jets  of  water  that 
jerk  out  of  the  hillsides  are  chased  by  angry,  hissing  clouds  of 
scarifying  steam  that  at  times  screech  like  raucous  power- 
whistles,  and  drown  the  sibilant  sound  of  the  dry  but  super- 
heated winds  that  stream  from  venomous  f umaroles  where  the 
fever-smitten  soil  shows  ominous,  glowing  red  heat  in  the 
<iracks  a  few  inches  below  the  surface.  In  this  land  most  of  the 
^Icanoes  are  easily  accessible,  and  often  within  a  short  stroll 
of  the  hotel  one  may  stand  at  the  rim  of  some  gasping,  dying 
crater,  and,  while  gazing  down  into  nature's  restless  glowing 
worksnop,  applaud  its  futile  efforts  to  send  the  white-lot  fire 
hi^  enough  to  chastise  irreverent  spectators.  The  Japanese 
now  such  disregard  for  some  of  the  volcanoes  that  they  live 
and  have  their  being  within  the  very  walls  of  the  craters  them- 
tBlres.  At  Aso-san  upward  of  a  hundred  villages  dot  the  inner 
dopes  of  the  once  gi^ntic  vent  whose  internal  fires  are  slowly 
0OQjfaig,  but  which  still  have  strength  enough  to  smoke  incea- 
ta^jr  and  oocasionaJJy'  to  dart  up  Eamea  that  scorcli  impiu- 


Iviii  PLAN  OF  TOUR 

dent  investigators.  Not  far  from  this  intensely  in1 
spot  is  the  quaint  little  town  of  Takeda,  in  a  sort  of 
Valley  reached  throu^  forty  or  more  tunnels  cut 
the  old  crat^  wall. 

So  varied  is  the  Japanese  climate  that  while  flo 
blooming  on  the  E.  or  Pacific  Coast,  beyond  the  grea 
range  which  forms  the'backboneof  the  main  island,  ne{ 
coast,  overlooking  the  Japan  Sea  and  distant  Siberia, 
is  often  buried  under  from  10  to  20  ft.  of  snow.  Here 
witness  the  curious  spectacle  of  a  town  literally  buri( 
sight,  with  sleighs  traveling  on  the  snow-crust  at 
streets,  higher  than  the  house-tops.  The  inhabitants  ( 
below  through  mole-like  tunnels,  and  beneath  arca( 
with  the  purpose  of  upholding  the  snow  and  permit 
people  to  conduct  their  daily  business  despite  the  e 
The  KurchshiwOf  that  warm  stream  which  flows  past  th 
ese  islands  to  Kamchatka  and  the  Pacific  Coast  of  Ame 
which  perchance  carried  on  its  dark  bosom  (comp. 
the  prototypes  of  the  first  Americans,  makes  of  the 
Coast  of  Japan  a  floral  paradise  where  the  horticu 
ancient  and  wonderful  art  attains  its  finest  achie 
Whole  mountain-sides,  gorges^  lowlands,  and  plains 
peted  at  times  with  graceful  lilies-of-the-valley,  wild  ^ 
columbine,  flaming  azaleas,  clematis,  ferns,  and  such : 
flowering  trees  and  shrubs  that  a  book  would  be  ne 
catalogue  them.  It  is  essentially  a  land  of  plum,  pea( 
and  cherry  blossoms,  and  one  where  acres  and  acre 
and  lotus  and  chrysanthemums  bedeck  the  country  is 
and  where  in  autunm  the  hill-slopes  are  so  scarlet  wi 
ing  maples  that  they  resemble  volcanoes  turned  wro 
out.  The  wild  flowers  of  Ikao  and  other  mt.  resc 
almost  as  numerous  and  as  charming  as  those  of  Cape 
Perched  amid  some  of  these  floral  groves,  at  vantag( 
whence  ravishing  and  romantic  seascapes  are  visible, 
gorpeous  mausolea  of  the  dead  shoguns;  richly  ai 
bancally  adorned  with  paintings  and  sculptures, 
and  gilded  dragons,  and  with  oratories  equipped  ^ 
the  glittering  paraphernalia  of  Indian  Buddhism;  € 
ing  in  its  Oriental  .suggestiveness,  and  of  a  fascinatii 
ticism. 

It  would  be  futile  to  attempt  to  classify  all  the  beaut 
for  they  are  legion;  to  be  seen  at  their  best,  many  of  the 
be  visited  at  certain  seasons,  when  they  flame  like  g 
sunsets  before  retiring  into  temporary  eclipse.  It  thus  1 
that  months  can  be  spent  in  Japan  without  exhaustin; 
tractions.  Months  must,  in  fact,  be  spent  here  if  the  ' 
would  see  it  in  all  its  seasonal  moods,  for  art  is  so  leagu 
nature  that  every  month  has  its  special  captivating 
Tjbe  JuatrouB  blue  skies  that  produce  mild,  sunny,  I 


[- 


PLAN  OF  TOUR  Hx 

Jan.  days  from  TOkyO  to  KjrOshtk,  oftentimes  coax  out  the  Feb. 
pbm  blooms  before  their  time,  and  they  are  quickly  followed 
oythe peach bloflfloms  in  Marcn,  the  pear  and  cherry  blooms  of 
i^iril  (when  the  land  is  a  veritable  paradise),  the  gorgeous 
wistaria  of  May,  theirises  of  winsome  JT une,  the  regal  peonies  of 
My,  the  sultana-like  lotuses  of  Aug.,  the  statelv  chiysanthe- 
muinsof  Sept.  and  Oct..  the  wondeniil  maples  of  Nov.  and  the 
etoar,  flower-fleoked  Inaiannsummer-like  days  of  crisp  Decem- 
ber. Ihterapersed  are  a  host  of  other  flowers  and  picturesque 
tahrals  that  are  ^wa^fs  a  delight  to  the  stranger.  In  some 
(firtricts  flowers  bloom  in  the  open  all  the  year  round,  as  the 
lo-oined  winter  of  the  Pacific  (Joast  south  of  Tokyo  is  naught 
bat  a  polite  term  to  express  a  season  of  bright,  fresh,  brilliant 
days,  and  sharp,  sleepful  nights.  For  weeks  in  the  spring  a 
hvdy  opalescent  haxe  is  apt  to  veil  the  snow-crowned  peaks, 
mdering  views  of  ti^em  impossible.  Thus  many  a  traveler  to 
Japan  in  spring;  sees  nothing  at  all  of  Fuji^an  or  the  other 
doud-capped  giants  of  the  Central  Range  —  unless,  indeed,  he 
lets  himself  to  watch  constantly  and  chances  to  get  a  furtive 
llbipse  of  them  between  passing  cloud  groups.  Nikk5  is  in- 
dnded  in  the  itinerary  of  almost  every  traveler  to  Japan,  but 
iriiosoever  sees  it  in  spnns  and  fails  to  return  in  the  summer 
nd  penetrate  to  beautifm  and  restful  Chuzenji;  to  the  still 
Bore  distant  Fufitoto,  and  thence  onward  over  the  Konsei  Pcl88 
iolkao  ;  or  fails  even  to  see  it  in  autumn  when  it  is  clad  in  its 
Kailet  coat  of  turning  maples,  or  in  winter  when  it   lies 
white  and  still  beneath  its  snowy  mantle  of  royal  ermine,  can- 
not be  said  to  know  it.  Nor  does  one  appreciate  the  full  beauty 
of  the  splendid  waterfalls  of  the  region,  which  thunder  in  their 
nmmer  soUtudes  but  are  hushed  and  frozen  in  winter. 

Although  the  Japanese  class  Matsushinuiy  Miyajimay  and 
AmanohtishidcUe  as  the  'Threb  Great  Siohts/  two  at  least  of 
these  san-kei  (3  scenes  or  views)  are  apt  not  to  prove  such  to  * 
the  average  Occidental.  Matsushimaf  unquestionably  the 
loveliest  of  the  trio,  possesses  an  irresistible  charm,  but  the  man 
from  the  forceful  and  mightv  West  usually  regards  the  rugged 
beauty  of  the  little-traveled  Hokkaido,  with  its  strange,  sad- 
faeed  Ainu  (lees  of  a  mysterious  aboriginal  race) ,  its  entrancing 
aeacoasts  and  views,  its  primeval,  grizzly-bear  haunted  forests, 
and  its  spouting  volcanoes  and  semi-arctic  characteristics,  of 
eoualif  not  of  greater  interest:  likewise  the  incomparable  Nikko 
with  its  barbarically  splendid  mausolea  and  its  groves  of  won- 
derful trees.  The  graceful  and  beguiling  charm  of  old  Kyoto. 
—  the  practically  unchanged  imperial  citv  where  the  heart  of 
(Md  Japan  beat  tor  upwara  of  a  thousand,  years,  —  or  that  of 
■onmolent  but  historic  Nara ,  with  its  unique  museum  and  its 
eokMsal  bronze  Buddha,  makes  a  singularly  strong  appeal. 
Ifftoyi  too,  will  want  to  ^o  Again  and  again  to  Kamakura,  the 
At^Otoffa  capital;  to  see  its  wonderful  Daibxitsu ; 


ix  PLAN  OF  TOUR 

itiirvEnoshima,  its  pendent  pearl;  and  the  glory  of  its  seacoafit 
back^  by  tlie  peerless  Fuji-san,  The  veiy  permanence  of  these 
and  many  other  places  in  Japan  appeals  to  the  materialistic 
westerner,  much  more  than  the  somewhat  fugitive  charms  of 
the  «an-m,  which  are  dependent  upon  the  tranquillity  of  the 
adjacent  sea  to  enhance  their  feminine  graces.  The  stem  but 
majestic  outlines  of  certain  of  the  stupendous  volcanic  ranges 
whose  sublimely  beautiful,  sky-scraping  ramparts  reluctantly 
doff  their  arctic  caps,  and  the  trembling,  agonizing  volcanoes 
themselves  are  infinitely  more  suggestive  of  strength  and  pu]> 
pose  than  the  softer  charms  of  the  languorous  Lake  ofOmi,  or 
even  the  exquisite  but  capricious  Inland  Sea.  Peaceful  Shoji, 
tucked  away  in  its  half-forgotten  fold  of  Fuji*  8  sweeping  skirts, 
has  a  singular  trick  of  gripping  the  heart  of  the  nature-lover 
and  of  luring  him  back  to  the  winsome  bosom  of  its  almost 
fathomless  lake;  and  few  indeed  are  the  travelers  who,  having 
once  seen  Ikao  and  Haruna,  Kusatsu  and  Karuizawa,  Aso-san 
and  the  Riviera-like  Beppu,  but  wish  to  return  to  them  over 
and  over  again. 

Most  travelers  to  Japan  will  wish  to  see  one  at  least  of  the 
great  white  feudal  castles — those  massively  fortified  and 
moat^ncircled  structures  which  make  such  spendidly  im- 
posing pictures  in  the  green  landscape,  and  which  speak  so 
eloquentlv  of  shogun  and  samuraif  and  of  the  ronin  and  war- 
riors of  the  olden  days.  One  of  the  finest  and  most  accessible 
of  these  is  at  Nagoya,  and  the  immense  structure,  when  seen, 
makes  a  lasting  impression.  The  above  are  but  a  few  of  the 
age-old  fascinations  of  this  singularly  attractive  land;  one 
^ich  has  gained  the  good  will  of  peaceful  and  progressive  na- 
tions by  the  urbanity  of  its  people;  its  pleasing  national  life; 
the  proud  position  which  its  honorable  government  occupies 
on  the  world's  stage ;  the  irresistible  allurements  of  its  temples, 
gardens,  mountains,  and  seas;  and  its  acknowledged  su- 
premacy in  those  gentle  arts  and  refinements  which  sweeten 
existence  and  add  to  its  amenity. 

Few  countries  of  the  world  possess  a  past  so  far-reaching  and 
a  history  more  interesting  than  that  of  Japan.  And  in  few 
countries  are  there  so  many  existing  relics  of  the  early  years  of 
the  nation's  life.  Not  many  peoples  cling  as  pertinaciously  to 
the  old  customs  as  do  the  Nipponese,  and  many  of  these  are 
inextricably  and  picturesquely  interwoven  in  their  daily  lives. 
Almost  every  street  of  a  Japanese  town  is  as  suggestive  of  ihe 
Middle  Ages  as  it  is  of  the  20th  century,  and  this  mediseval 
flavor  usually  possesses  a  special  charm  for  the  Westerner. 
The  mt.  peaKs,  the  valleys,  the  ancient  groves,  the  temples, 
lakes,  castles,  and  palaces  are  all  steeped  in  mytholo^  or 
storied  romance,  while  petrographic  reminders  of  the  twilight 
history  of  the  people  exist  in  many  forms  —  stone  or  bronie 
lanterDB,  statuary  or  monuments  of  warriors  and  bonzes,  ele. 


PLOT  ar<  TODB  u 

Btedo  not  U6k  down  frtmi  ttiNsry  hiU^^ 
ttlistoond  indeed  away  in  sacred  tibiokete,  in  oaves  or  In  val- 
hn^oaidands,  and  eren  on  the  loftiest  mt.  tonk 
vaoetoonntriBs'tlie  pendty  of  travel  is  tonnd  tiungsnot 

SMI  tbose  di  our  dreams''  but  this  can  scaredy  be  mid  of 
«iipHi;for  of  iaU  the  Inilfiaint  emtnres  of  the  opulent  Elast  it  is 
psliie  most  attractive  and  the  meet  satisf yinj;.  Many 
ill  too  saUsfying,  and  are  thus  remindedof  the  significant 
dMoL: '  travding  is  one  of  the  saddest  pleasures  in  life.'  For 
loMi  Japan  and  team  its  charm  is  equivdent  to  drinking  the 
wrim-of  Quadalupe;  the  craving  to  return  is  implanted,  and 
tAmwrii  to  be  appeased.  Perhi^  in  no  countrv  of  the  world 
ktee,  witlun  the  same  neerrow  lunits,  so  much  that  is  beauti- 
Uand  interesting^  and  w<many  readily  accessible  dghts.  Its 
— wiins  and  art  salleries,  its  temples  and  mausolea,  are  rich 
itths  aeeimnilated  treasures  of  the  ages;  and  as  a  fitting  corol- 
Iv^r^lifein  Japan  is  something  so  placid  and  kindly  ana  gentle 
Ik  it  is  just  like  one  of  liiose  dreams,  in  which  everybody  is 
|Md4iatured  about  everything.' 

■  There  is  a  peeuliar  charm  about  Tramfinq  in  Japan,  one 
■ibrtanatefy  Detter  known  to  the  sinewy  and  endunng  Brit- 
|irand  Gennan  than  to  the  time-begruddng,  comfort-eeek- 
Nl  American*^  who  too  often  feels  that  where  a  jinriki  can't 
p,  he  won't  go.  It  is  indubitably  true  that  fb»  traveler  who 
iMHslio  Japan  unprepared  to  walk  over  some  of  its  lofty  knt. 
Mns,  and  to  penetrate  on  foot  to  some  of  the  remote  places 
Mantouchedby  the  blightinj;  hand  of  progress,  —  for  a  first- 
■md  glimpse  of  one  of  the  ^uamtest  civilizations  the  world  has 
pnxiaced,  —  loses  somethmg  which  the  sometime  treaty-jwrts 
ttDnot  make  up  to  him  —  for  the  heterogeneous  treaty-ports 
Btrmore  reflect  the  life  of  rural  Nipxwn  than  Barcelcma  does 
%t  of  AndaludJEk,  or  Paris  that  of  Provence.  Those  who  love 
to  view  the  world  from  its  high  and  wild  places  will  find  the 
pukoramas,  which  the  eye  surveys  from  many  of  the  ^at  ele- 
ctions of  the  Japanese  mts.,  so  entrancingfy  beautiful  that, 
meta^ioricallv  speaking,  they  would  send  the  blood  coursine 
aad  tmgling  through  the  veins  of  a  stone  Buddha.   For  a  fuU 
and  Qomplete  enjosrment  of  these  trips  one  should  start  prac- 
tioaDy  baggageless,  care-free,  and  happy,  with  a  heart  attuned 
to  the  ifa^hm  of  uie  universe,  and  with  imchecked  joy  bub- 
bfing  up  from  the  soul.  The  man  who  will  be  oblivious  to  slight 
penoDal  discomforts,  who  will  sing  the  rollicking  songs  of  his 
yevth  as  lie  l^ampe  blithdy  over  the  grand,  suent,  upland 
ddnstor  oyer  knife  ridges  thousands  of  feet  above  the  quaint 
lamlBtB,  dimpling  lakes,  or  the  dreamy  sea  below,  will  take 
out  ft  new  lease  on  life  and  drop  ten  years  from  his  shouldiers. 
"nasilitig  not  at  the  mediaeval  character  of  some  of  the  way- 
-veritable  relics  of  feudal  times — and  by  ra^atmit 
te  whknfmrbe  goe$,  he  will  he  surptML  at  the 


hdi  PLAN  OF  TOUR 

abiding  picturesqueness  of  the  country  and  the  intensely  hx 
man  character  of  the  Quakerish  people. 

The  Japanese  are  inveterate  trampers,  and  the  women  an 
children  are  as  confirmed  in  the  habit  as  the  men.  They  swan 
across  their  lovely  country  like  Teutons  in  the  Tyrol,  thr^M 
ing  the  magnificent  forests  and  climbing  the  highest  peal 
with  a  fearlessness  and  an  agility  which  commands  the  adm 
ration.  Even  on  the  loneliest  mt.  trail  one  will  sometimi 
meet  or  overtake  travel-stained  pilgrims  or  Buddhist  pries) 
in  yellow  robes  and  with  jingling  staffs  seeking  some  aistai 
shnne;  a  bespectacled  Japanese  professor  hunting  bugs  < 
butterflies;  an  Austrian  army  officer  with  rucksack  and  pu 
teeSf  *  doing '  Japan  on  his  furlough ;  or  ^oung  soldiers  mappiu 
the  region  or  surveying  for  a  military  mghroad.  On  the  mail 
traveled  roads  one  is  scarcely  ever  out  of  sight  of  peasants  i 
bonzes;  groups  of  holiday-making  students  shouting  for  tl 
pure  joy  of  being  alive,  or  leaping  and  gamboling  like  frisk 
young  chamois;  embassy  attaches  or  newspaper  men  out  of  tii 
grind  for  a  brief  respite,  or  bands  of  schoolboys  or  girls  herdc 
by  some  benevolent  tutor  who  points  out  the  beauty  spots  < 
leads  them  in  person  (an  excellent  German  idea)  to  some  ha 
lowed  place,  some  volcano  or  sacred  peak,  so  that  thev  may  m 
it  with  their  own  eyes  and  become  more  patriotic  and  wiser  f< 
having  done  so. 

The  lure  of  these  inland  places,  particularly  to  the  lover  < 
fine  scenery,  is  irresistible.  An  experience  in  one's  life  whk 
is  not  easily  forgotten  is  the  twilight  of  certain  of  these  halcyo 
days  when  the  wayfarer,  tired  but  happy,  with  one  or  moi 
scenic  scalps  hanging  at  his  belt,  reaches  his  quaint  inn  with  i 
whole-hearted  welcome  and  its  cheer,  and  listens  to  the  ha|^ 
chatter  and  the  tales  of  the  day 'sad  ventures  of  those  who  for 

gather  there.  The  average  tourist  who  sticks  closely  to  tl 
esh-pots  of  the  foreign  ports,  or  treads  safely  and  contented] 
the  beaten  tracks  of  travel,  recks  little,  indeed,  of  the  grea 
ever-flowing^  stream  of  picturesque  life  that  pulses  steadij 
through  a\\  the  hi^ways  and  byways  of  rural  Japan.  Happy 
the  man  who  counts  in  his  recollections  the  records  of  some  t 
these  country  hikes.  Nor  will  he  soon  forget  what  wholly  ai 
mirable  and  cheerful  companions  the  Japanese  pilgrims  mak 
and  how  easy  it  is  to  understand  them,  when,  as  it  so  oftc 
happens,  the  quondam  friend  speaks  a  few  score  words  of  Enj 
lish,  and  understands  as  readily  the  other  few  score  Japanei 
words  the  traveler  knows.  For  hours  they  may  tramp  togethi 
talking  on  many  subjects;  repeating  words  over  and  over,  hal 
ing  and  gesticulating;  now  stopping  to  trace  out  an  idea  in  tl 
dust  of  the  road,  the  while  getting  the  gist  of  the  other's  drif 
kindling  friendships  that  last  through  years,  and  each  amasc 
and  secretly  pleased  at  his  efficiency  in  the  other's  langua^ 
It  Is  an  uDadulteraXed  joy  to  get  away  from  the  hybrid  treat] 


PLAN  OF  TOUR  Ixui 

ports  with  their  ignoble,  clashing  ambitions,  and  to  tread  the 
nreet  countryside  where  strange  flowers  bloom,  rivulets  chat- 
tv  and  sparkle,  the  sunlisht  glints  on  a  distant  sail,  and  a 
gntk  breeze  sighs  wistf ufly  through  the  fragrant  pines  and 
OTptomerias.  No  one  can  be  said  to  have  seen  Japan  who  has 
bA  taken  such  jaunts;  who  has  not  tramped  through  the 
KyQM  wonderland;  over  the  old  Yamato  trails;  through  sin- 
0008  paths  to  Kdy(i-8an;  to  the  remote  valleys  of  Echigo  and 
Skmmo;  or  to  the  singular  Ainu  settlements  of  fascinating 

Contrary  to  the  accepted  belief,  travel  to  the  chief  places  of 
A^Mui  is  easy.   The  difficulties  which  are  supposed  to  arise 
wsa  a  lack  of  knowledge  of  the  spoken  language  have  been 
OBggerated.    The  constant  efforts  of  the  railway  manage- 
■ent^  the  hotelmen,  the  different  tourist  bureaus,  and  of  pri- 
vate mdividuals,  seconded  by  the  ever  alert  newspapers,  have 
wrought  many  excellent  changes  and  improvements.  The  rail- 
n3n!  in  particular  have  been  indefatigable  in  their  efforts  to 
niiumize  the  friction  of  travel,  and  they  propose  to  stop  only 
iten  Jai)an  is  made  into  a  second  Switzerland  for  tourists. 
Rom  their  private  schools  they  have  stationed  English-speak- 
■g  employees  in  almost  all  the  chief  points  where  [travelers 
wegather,  and  this  language  may  be  said  now  to  be  widely 
^ol^n.  Nearly  everv  hotel  in  the  Empire  has  one  or  more  em- 
ployees who  can  talk  in  English  to  foreign  guests,  and  the 
toivist  cannot  wander  far  afield  without  hearing  it  spoken. 
Tlie  Japanese  have  the  Oerman's  genius  for  making  the  trav- 
eler comfortable  on  the  sea,  and  every  year  sees  more  luxurious 
Mttd  speedy  steamers  added  to  the  already  excellent  coastwise 
and  deep-sea  service.   In  many  of  the  remote  regions  of  the 
idands  the  speedy  railway  and  the  electric  trolley  are  pushing 
aside  the  hasha  and  the  jinrikij  and  excellent  highroads  now 
pridiron  the  land  from  Yezo  to  Kyushu.    The  improvements 
m  the  hotels  and  inns  are  almost  as  marked  as  those  in  the 
transportation  system,  and  many  unlooked-for  conveniences 
are  accorded  the  traveler  in  both.   The  highways  by  day  or 
nig^t  are  safer  than  certain  of  the  thoroughfares  of  Chicago  or 
the  French  metropolis. 

In  few  countries  are  travelers  treated  with  greater  individual 
consideration.  The  average  Japanese  is  usually  so  pleased  to 
find  foreigners  interested  m  his  homeland  and  its  civilization 
that  he  is  apparently  never  too  busy  to  describe  them.  This 
friendly  spirit  animates  the  nation  from  the  topmost  official 
of  the  mtensely  aristocratic  but  non-snobbish  (and  never  ser- 
vile) government  down  to  the  humblest  peasant;  and  one  of  the 
most  winning  traits  of  the  people  is  their  impersonal  polite- 
leiB  and  their  readiness  to  be  helpful  and  friendly,  partic\]daE\y 
towaid  those  who  approach  Japan  and  its  institutions  in  a 
9Ut  ol  annable  tolerance  And  good  will.  It  can  truthfully  Y>e 


hSv  PLAN  OF  TOUR 

said  of  the  Japanese  that  no  people  can  be  more  obHgme  whoi 
once  they  learn  what  is  wanted  of  them.  The  overcrowding  in 
street-cars^  the  manifest  lack  of  deference  to  women,  the  hurry 
to  appropriate  the  best  seat  in  a  train,  or  the  abominable  habits 
of  certain  of  the  proletariat,  are  due  to  ignorance  and  a  millen- 
nium of  training,  less  than  to  selfishness  and  immodesty.  For 
when  one  reflects  upon  the  brutal  and  inhuman  treatment 
meted  out  by  the  swashbuckling  military  to  the  inoffensive, 
law-abiding  peasantry  during  the  centuries  which  preceded  the 
Meiji  era,  one  marvels  at  the  perfect  courtesy  and  winsomenesB 
of  their  modem  descendants. 

To  conduct  personally  a  forei^er  through  a  temple  or  a 
museum,  or  even  to  accompany  him  on  foot  from  one  town  to 
another,  sdems  to  be  the  duty  and  pleasure  of  many  Japanese 
one  meets.  At  times  much  of  this  naive  willingness  to  help  is 
positively  embarrassing.  Does  one  question  a  passing  bonze, 
a  student,  or  some  other  good  soul  regarding  a  temple  miles 
away,  that  person  is  apt  instantly  to  assure  the  questioner  that 
he  is  going  to  tbat  spot  himself,  and  despite  all  remonstrances 
he  will  trudge  along  a  blistering  country  pike  for  miles  in  the 
sun,  happ^  in  the  companionship  of  some  one  to  whom  he  may 
be  of  service,  or  from  whom  he  may  pick  up  a  few  words  of  En^* 
lish  —  for  which  the  Japanese  have  a  passion.  To  offer  a  fee  is 
often  to  offend  a  well-meaning  person.  It  happens  sometimes 
that  a  schoolboy  anxious  to  gratify  an  innocent  pride  and  shine 
as  a  linguist  among  his  townspeople  will  constitute  himself  a 
guide  and  will  stick  like  a  burr  to  a  stranger  who  does  not  need 
him  and  who  wishes  fervently,  without  appearing  rude,  to  dis- 
lodge him.  The  Japanese  express  this  embarrassing  politeness 
by  Arigata-^meiwaku  (literally:  ^useless  kindness,  or  a  gift 
indifferent  to,  or  even  detrimental  to  the  receiver).  Coimtry 
priests  will,  as  a  rule,  show  the  interested  stranger  into  every 
nook  and  cranny  of  the  vast  temple  in  their  charge,  beam  with 
pleasure  when  one  praises  some  wonderful  wood  carving  or 
painting^  and  if  need  be,  bring  out  the  temple  records  written 
m  beautifully  S3rmmetrical  ideographs  and  help  to  identify  the 
objects  one  by  one.  Because  of  the  special  facilities  for  making 
travelers  to  Japan  comfortable,  and  due  also  to  other  causes, 
the  Empire  is  rapidly  becoming  a  summer  rendezvous  for  the 
wilted,  sunbaked  women  and  children  of  the  Chinese  and  East 
Indian  httorak.  Many  of  them  spend  the  hottest  summer 
months  in  the  cool  mt.  resorts,  or  at  some  of  the  many  mineral 
springs  in  the  country,  and  return  to  their  semi-equatorial 
homes  in  the  autumn.  Because  of  this  returning  tide  of  travel, 
certain  of  the  steamships  plying  between  the  southern  ports 
and  China  are  liable  to  be  full  at  specified  times  (reference  ia 
made  to  this  at  Nag(i9aki),  Warships  of  the  different  nations 
stationed  in  East  Indian  waters  often  steam  up  the  Japan  coast 
nrJien  life  becomcB  almost  unendurable  at  Hongkong  and 


xxiURIST  SOCIETIES  Ixv 

elsewhere,  and  when  the  sailoFB  swann  on  shore  at  the  ports 
th^  add  a  decidedly  picturesque  element  to  the  native  life. 
Many  of  the  places  of  interest  in  Central  Japan  are  within 
relatively  short  distances  of  one  another.   Tokyd  is  but  18  M. 
(i  hr.)  from  Yokohama;  Ikao  is  7^  hrs. ;  Ky5to  11,  and  Kobe  12 
luB.  —  with  good  and  frec^uent  rly.  service.    Nikk5  is  4^  hrs. 
from  Tokyo ;  and  Matsushima,  the  finest  of  the  Hhree  sights/ 
about  8  hirs.  The  traveler  who  lands  at  Yokohama  and  plans 
to  proceed  later  to  China  and  the  S.  can  arrange  his  trips 
through  the  N.  part  of  the  island  and  visit  Kamakura,  Kyoto, 
Nara,  Kobe,  etc.;  on  his  way  S.,  without  having  to  double  on 
his  tracks.  On  the  other  hand,  those  who  approach  the  country 
from  China  or  Korea  may  visit  the  chief  intervening  places  en 
route    northward.     The   interchangeable   railway-steamship 
tickets  are  referred  to  at  p.  Ixxxiii.  Tiie  Gov't  Rlys.  sell  circular 
tickets  which  include  many  places  of  interest,  and  Thos.  Cook  & 
8<m;  Minami  ASons;  the  CoUver  Tours  Co.,  Raymond  &  Whitr- 
oofRO  Co.,  and  other  tourist  agencies  arrange  tours  of  different 
lengths,  independent,  personally  conducted,  or  otherwise;  with 
or  without  guides.   The  specimen  toiurs  advertised  by  them 
taxif^  from  a  few  places  to  be  visited  within  10  days  to  an  ex- 
tensive trip  occup^ng  6  weeks.  The  itineraries  followed  are 
ihown  in  their  special  booklets.  From  Feb.  to  early  June,  and 
from  Sept.  to  Nov.  are  the  popular  seasons  in  Japan,  albeit 
ttie  country  is  now  regarded  as  an  all-the-year-round  resort. 
Thegreatest  influx  of  travelers,  takes  place  in  March  and  early 
ipril7 coincident  with  the  blossoming  of  the  cherry  trees;  and 
in  Oct.  and  Nov.,  when  the  changing  maples  are  in  their  prime. 
At  this  time  come  those  travelers  from  America  bound  ulti- 
mately for  British  India  and  the  East  Indies  —  where  travel  is 
comfortable  during  the  short  winter  months  only.  The  hotels 
are  likely  to  be  filled  in  the  spring  and  autunm,  and  it  is  ad- 
visable to  bespeak  accommodations. 

The  Japan  Totirist  Bureau,  with  headquarters  in  the  Im- 
perial Gov't  Rly.  building  at  Tokyo,  is  of  interest  to  travelers, 
t  was  organized  in  1912  under  the  auspices  of  the  Gov't  Rlys.^ 
W  Sovih  Manchuria  Rly.j  the  Nippon   Yusen  Kaisha,  the 
oyo  Risen  Kaisha^  and  the  Imperial  Hotel  (of  ToWo).  Its 
jef  aim  is  to  be  of  assistance  to  visiting  tourists,  to  which  end 
ices  that  will  eventually  evolve  into  free  Information  Bu- 
ns are  being  established  in  the  various  cities  of  Japan, 
rea,  Manchuria,  and  Formosa.  Other  objects  are  to  improve 
transportation  service;  build  new  and  better  hot^'ls;  adver- 
Japan  abroad;  suppress  questionable  practices  on  the  part 
erchants  and  innkeepers,  etc.  The  association  is  of  a  nigh 
:,  and  tourists  may  find  it  of  material  use. 

e  Welcome  Society  of  Japan  (Kihin  Kai)  founded  m 
with  headquarters  at  Tokyd,  has  for  its  object  the  v^eV 
ig  of  foreiigD  visitors  to  Japan  and  the  rendering  oi  aaaaV 


Ixvi  CLIMATE  AND  MONSOONS 

ance  during  their  stay.  While  the  founders  pay  (toward  its 
upkeep)  an  annual  fee  of  5  yen,  tourists  are  asked  to  pay  3  ffsn, 
in  return  for  which  they  and  their  families  receive  all  the  privi- 
leges of  the  societ^r.  They  are  supplied  with  booklets,  maps, 
letters  of  introduction,  passes  to  landscape  gardens,  museums, 
temples,  and  the  like,  where  such  are  necessary,  and  with  what- 
ever information  thev  may  wish.  Guides  are  hired,  piurchases 
made,  etc.,  and  badges  and  certificates  of  membership  are 
given.  The  society  has  the  support  of  the  Imperial  Japanese 
Household,  and  is  backed  by  men  of  the  highest  integrity.  It  is 
not  mtended  as  a  money-makmg  mstitution. 

Climate.  The  odd  physical  configuration  of  Japan  gives  it  a 
niunber  of  temperatures  and  several  distinct  (and  uncertain) 
climates.  Its  great  length  (about  2000  M.  from  Kamchatka| 
in  the  semi-Arctic  region,  to  Formosa^  in  the  semi-tropics),  ana 
the  variety  of  its  orographical  constitution,  account,  in  part, 
^  for  the  lacK  of  uniformity  in  the  climate.  This  is  particularly  so 
1/  between  the  opposite  extremes  of  the  Main  Island,  whicn  is 
\  It  long  and  in  places  narrow;  is  flanked  by  seas,  and  has  a  chain  of 
I7     high  mts.  along  its  spine.  The  Kuriles,  which  are  related  to 
VH     Siberia  in  situation  and  climate,  are  cold;  Central  Japan  is 
y    h    temperate;  and  Formosa  is  hot.  The  climates  are  influenced 
\    strongly  by  the  winds  which  blow  over  from  Siberia,  by  the 
gales  which  whip  down  from  the  Arctic  Circle;  by  the  mon- 
soons ^  and'typhoons  (comp.  Seasons)  which  blow  up  from  the 
China  Sea;  and  by  the  whims  of  the  mysterious  Kuro-Bhiwo 
(which  see),  which  may,  by  setting  closer  to  the  Nippon  shore, 
or  by  swinging  roimd  some  newly  formed  volcano  on  tne  ocean's 
floor,  bring  summer  weather  to  E.  Japan  in  midwinter,  hasten 
or  delay  the  customary  seasons,  or  alter  normal  conditions  by 
an  appreciable  number  of  degrees.  The  rainfall,  which  is  above 
the  average  in  most  countries,  varies  greatly  in  different  years. 
A  noteworthy  fact  is  that  in  certain  districts  these  seasons 
neither  begin  nor  end  in  consonance  with  the  dates  the  Japan- 
ese set  for  them.  The  great  imperative  call  of  the  young  year 
may  bring  the  plum  blossoms  out  in  all  their  beauty  in  Feb., 
and  the  land  may  be  redolent  of  spring  and  bright  with  other 
flowers,  yet  the  season  may  be  ended  by  April  snowstorms  in 
T5ky5,  or  flurries  in  Nikk5,  even  in  May.  to  the  astonishment 
of  the  cherry  blooms  and  the  disgust  of  the  heliophilous  child- 
ren. Blizzards  will  sometimes  screech  over  the  Hokkaid5  while 
summer  loiters  amid  the  pines  and  palmettoes  of  Suruga,  or 
along  the  lovely  shores  of  the  Inland  Sea. 

^  Monsoons  (Arabic,  Afatmm,  'strong  wind').  In  the  China  Sea  the 
Southwest  Monsoon  begins  about  the  end  of  April  and  lasts  until  the  middle 
of  Oct. ;  it  continues  longer  to  the  southward  of  11°  N.  lat.  than  farther  to  the 
northward.  This  monsoon  is  not  so  strong  as  the  Northeast  Monsoon,  which 
oommences  in  Sept.  in  the  N.  part  of  the  China  Sea  but  rarely  reaches  the  8. 
jMut  until  Noy.  It  generally  bursts  with  a  gale  and  blows  heavily  eastward 
oiFormoBA  in  Deo.-Feh.  It  ends  in  March. 


SEASONS  '  Ixvll 

The  sway  of  the  monsoons  is  disputed  by  the  equatorial 
eorrent,  and  its  W.  branch,  the  Tsushima  current,  both  of 
which  aid  to  produce  cooler  summers  and  milder  winters,  and 
considerable  moisture  throughout  the  year.  In  KytlshQ  the 
alleged  winter  sometimes  faUs  entirely  to  put  in  an  appearance, 
and  a  slowing  atmosphere  of  gold  and  blue  broods  above 
flower-decked  meadows  and  seas  as  lovely  as  those  of  SicHy  or 
Greece.  Onlv  abnormal  weather  brings  snow  and  cold  to  the 
coast  of  this  favored  island. ' 

Seasons.  Japan  proper  recognizes  two  seasons;  the  nyvbai' 
(pron.  new^y')t  or  rainy  season,  and  the  dry  season  {kawaku). 
/Qthough  the  former  is  supposed  to  begin  June  1 1  and  extend 
over  2  or  3  weeks,  in  reality  it  commences  in  April  and  gradu- 
ally acquires  such  enthusiasm  that  in  June  it  rains  as  if  'the 
bottom  had  dropped  out  of  things,  then  continues  through 
July  and  even  into  Aug.,  before  it  slacks  to  a  sniffling,  spas- 
modic drizzle.  Throughout  the  summer,  therefore,  one  may 
confidently  expect  1  day  in  3  to  be  rainy^  and  oftentimes  12-- 
14  out  of  the  month.  For  the  traveler  m  Japan  to  wait  for 
clear  days  is  like  stepping  into  a  doorway  on  the  Strand  and 
waiting  for  the  crowd  to  pass.  While  the  emphatic  quality  of 
Qie  Japanese  climate  is  wetness,  the  nyubai  is  sui  generis,  for 
it  is  of  a  mugginess  unknown  anywhere  in  the  United  States. 
To  prevent  spots  and  ruin,  kid  gloves,  chiffon,  dainty  leather 
things,  furs,  etc.,  must  be  put  in  air-tight  receptacles;  the 
heat  (in  Yokohama,  T5ky5,  etc.)  takes  the  starch  out  of 
things  generally,  makes  the  silver-plating  on  knives  and 
spoons  buckle  and  peel,  rusts  iron  and  steel,  causes  fungi 
landscapes  to  grow  on  dress-suits,  leather  valises^  and  cloth- 
ing hung  in  dark  closets,  spoils  cigarettes  not  sealed  her- 
metically in  tins,  mildews  many  things,  and  fills  one  with 
a  lassitude  difficult  to  shake  off.  On  sunny  days  the  streets 
are  strewn  with  raised  umbrellas  and  other  objects  set  out  to 
dry,  and  balconies  are  draped  with  clothing,  bed-covering,  and 
the  like.  Heat  prostrations  are  rare;  the  nights  are  tempered 
by  sea-breezes,  and  the  air  generally  is  devoid  of  the  deadly 
qualities  of  July  in  New  York  or  the  middle  West  of  the  U.S.A. 
The  excessive  rains  cause  serious  fluvial  irregularities  that  send 
rivers  surging  and  dashing  out  of  their  banks  to  waste  the  land, 
inflict  serious  damage  on  the  railways,  and  oftentimes  flood 
T5ky5,  with  considerable  destruction  to  life  and  property. 
While  essential  to  the  rice  crop  and  to  the  general  fertility  of 
the  land,  these  rains  constitute  one  of  the  sorrows  of  the  coun- 
try. While  T5ky6  is  classed  as  one  of  the  dryest  places  in  the 
country,*  it  has  58  inches  of  yearly  rainfall  (against  125  in.  of 
B.  E.  KvHshti),  and  parts  of  the  city  are  often  submerged  be- 
neath the  torrential  downpours. 

Tlie  bc^nning  of  the  end  of  the  nyubai  is  ushered  in  with  \,\ie 
{9O0'^ou)  or  bat'U,  which  the  Japanese  ^say  comes  w\t\i 


Ixviii         '  TYPHOONS 

the  stealthiness  of  mist  but  goes  out  with  peals  of  thunder.  It 
is  a  gloomy,  muggy,  lowering,  sticky,  Toiny  season  which 
jangles  delicate  nerves  and  makes  fat  men  peevish  and  profane 
— particidarly  when  it  is  accompanied  (as  is  often  the  case)  by 
a  big,  ]&TTmgjishin  (earthquake) .  The  humidity  is  more  trying 
than  the  heat  j  and  at  this  period  certain  improperly  balanced 
folks  develop  suicidal  tendencies.  The  leisurely  traveler  will 
do  well  to  secure  comfortable  quarters  in  a  good  hotel,  elimi* 
nate  brain-storms  and  cocktails,  and  ^  sit  tight '  till  the  clouds 
pass,  for  traveling  in  the  interior  is  fraught  with  wettings, 
vexations,  and  delays.  The  native  inns  provide  no  fires  by 
which  to  dry  one's  clothing ;  the  swollen  streams  wash  out  the 
highways ;  no  rain-coat  will  keep  out  the  driving,  slanting,  pen- 
etrating wet;  the  inns  are  the  acme  of  cheerlessness,  and  the 
lack  of  refrigerated  refreshments  makes  a  huge  void  in  one's 
existence.  The  mornings  are  sometimes  bright,  and  in  moun- 
tainous districts  trips  should  be  planned  accordingly,  since 
thunderstorms  are  apt  to  break  between  3  and  5  p.m.  Plums 
begin  to  ripen  about  this  time  and  the  cries  of  the  fruit- vender 
are  heard  in  the  land  j  the  yellowish-green  product  looks  colicky 
to  foreigners,  but  it  is  a  time-honored  custom  in  Yedo  for  the 
people  to  buy  them,  and  the  combination  of  green  fruit  and 
hot  days  no  doubt  increases  the  death-roll  in  the^metropolis. 
The  DoyOj  or  period  of  greatest  heat,  is  supposed  to  begin  July 
20,  and  end  about  Aug.  10,  and  for  Japanese  and  foreigners  it  is 
the  most  trying  time  of  the  year.  The  farmers  attach  great  im- 
portance to  the  first  3  days,  believing  that  if  these  be  broiling, 
the  crops  will  be  good.  While  the  thermometers  of  Tokyo  run 
into  the  90*s,  a  sort  of  hushed  expectancy  fills  the  souls  of  the 

geople,  for  Neptune's  wrath  in  the  shape  of  the  dreaded  sea- 
red revolving  storms  known  as  typhoons  break  over  the  land 
at  this  time  and  render  the  most  phlegmatic  a  bit  nervous. 
The  elements  scourge  the  country  as  it  they  bore  a  grudge 
against  it ;  they  seem  possessed  of  the  many  demons  which  glare 
from  the  mynad  temples,  and  they  snatch  the  tiles  from  the 
house-roofs,  uproot  trees,  demolish  fences,  and  send  crystal 
rods  of  rain  darting  against  the  ground  as  if  they  would  trans- 
fix it. 

l^hoons  (TaifQ),  prolonged  cyclonio  storms  of  great  intensity,  that  cor- 
respond to  the  West  Indian  humcanes  which  occur  in  the  same  latitudes  in 
the  W.  hemisphere,  pass  along  the  Japanese  seaboard  in  July,  Aug.,  and 
Sept.,  and  sometimes  do  great  damage  to  property  on  land  and  sea.  Some 
beueve  the  name  is  derived  from  the  Chinese  ta-fung,  or  '  great  wind,'  while 
others  prefer  to  think  it  associated  with  Typhon,  in  Greek  mythology  the  son 
of  Tt/phoiuSt  and  the  father  of  the  winds.  The  3-4  typhoons  which  thrash 
the  coast  of  Japan  and  Korea  each  year  usually  originate  E.  of  Formosa  and 
thence  travel  N.,  passing  over  or  near  the  Nansei  group  of  islands.  Having 
■arrived  at  the  parallel  of  30<^  N.,  the  majority  curve  to  the  N.E.  through  Van 
Diemen  Strait,  and  continue  in  that  direction  either  along  or  over  the  S.  and 
S.E.  coasts  of  Japan,  and  out  into  the  Pacific  Ocean.  Some,  having  gained 
iAe  B.E.  /Bade  of  KyQshtl,  recurve  to  the  N.  through  Bungo  Channel,  or 
juxroas  to  Sbikoku  and  up  the  Kii  Channel,  thence  passing  across  the  Inland 


SEASONS  box 

Sea  and  the  W.  part  of  Hondo  in  a  N.  course,  reach  the  Sea  of  Jai>an,  where 
they  foUow  tiie  coaat  and  pass  out  to  sea  through  Tsugaru  Strait.  The  mean 
rate  at  which  the  centers  of  typhoons  travel  in  Japan  is  from  5  to  35  M.  per 
hour,  although  some  acquire  the  extraordinary  velocity  of  100  M.  If  those 
with  a  velocity  of  less  than  10  M.  per  hour  be  termed  slow,  and  those  with  a 
velocity  greater  than  15  M.  per  hour  quick,  then  three  fourths  of  the  Japan- 
ese tsrphoons  are  quick  and  one  fourth  slow.  Those  of  July-Aug.  are  usually, 
though  not  always,  slow  ones;  while  those  of  Sept.  and  Oct.  are  quick.  The 
fierce  ones  are  csdlcd  (by  the  Chinese)  ti^  kU,  or  '  iron  whirlwinds. 'j  Some  of 
those  which  visit  Japan  do  not  spend  their  fury  at  sea,  but  reserve  it  for  the 
land  and  cause  inmiense  damage.  Contrary  to  the  general  impression  a 
*  weU-f ormed '  typhoon  is  not  merely  a  gale  of  wind  with  a  calm  spot  in  the 
center.  These  caun  rings  may  have  a  diameter  of  anywhere  from  2  M.  to  50 
M.,  belted  by  a  ring  generally  less  than  a  mile  wide  in  which  light  winds  pre- 
vul,  and  with  a  sort  of  outer  shell  anywhere  from  200  to  1000  M.  thick,  where 
the  real  force  lies.  This  force  treats  great  ships  as  if  they  were  corks,  and 
usually  levels  everything  in  its  path.  Its  movement  is  indicated^  by  the 
barometer  and  an  instrument  known  as  the  barocyclonometer,  which  indi- 
cates by  needles  like  those  of  a  compass  the  direction  of  the  typhoon.  Japan 
is  usually  apprised  several  days  in  advance  of  the  coming  of  a  typhoon,  and 
storm  signals  along  the  coast  warn  the  seamen.  An  irregular  movement  of 
the  barometer,  followed  by  a  fall;  also  a  rapid  rise  followed  by  a  fall,  perhaps 
unsteady  at  first,  are  suspicious  signs.  Oppressive  heat  accompanied  by  a 
hasy  atmosphere,  a  halo  round  the  sun,  hvid  tints  at  sunset,  heavy  leaden 
clouds,  and  fitful  gusts  of  wind  and  rain  are  some  signs  of  the  approach  of  a 
t^hoon;  also  a  broken  irre^ar  sea  or  swell  generally  from  a  different  direc- 
tion from  the  wind.  The  mhabitants  of  the  China  coast,  who  also  suffer 
greatly  frc»n  typhoons,  say  that  a  few  days  before  one  comes  on,  a  slight 
noise  is  heard  at  intervals,  whirling  round  and  then  stopping,  'sometimes 
impetuous  and  sometimes  slow.  This  is  a  '  typhoon  brewing.'  The  normal 
pressure  in  Japan  during  the  typhoon  months  is  about  29.84  inches  in  July- 
Aug.;  29.92  in  Sept.;  or  from  29.88  in  W.  KyushQ  to  29.96  in  S.  E.  Yeso 
during  that  month,  and  30.04  inches  in  Oct.  A  doggerel  by  which  for- 
eigners in  Japan  remember  the  typhoon  months  runs  thus:  *  June  too  soon; 
July  look  shy;  August  you  must;  September  remember;  October  all  over.' 
It  is  estimated  that  an  average  of  472  persons  are  killed  in  Japan  by  storms 
each  year.  The  great  annual  Sept.  gale  —  '  The  gigantic  Storm  wind  of 
the  equinox'  —  is  accountable  for  much  of  this  damage.  This  line  storm, 
of  the  autumnal  equinox  (ShUbun),  the  most  dreaded  of  rail,  comes  at 
a  critical  time  for  the  farmers;  the  Nihyaku-toka,  the  210th  day  from  the 
beginning  of  the  first  spring  month  according  to  the  old  calendar,  usually 
falls  on  Sept.  1  or  2,  when  the  early  variety  {waae)  of  rice  is  in  bloom  and 
ready  to  change  from  flower  to  grain.  If  a  typhoon  occurs  at  this  time  (which 
usually  happens),  and  but  a  fifth  of  the  crop  is  damaged,  it  means  a  mone- 
tuy  loss  of  more  than  100  million  yen.  The  storm  damage  to  crops  is  usually 
enormous  in  Sept.,  for  ten  days  after  the  Nihyaku-toka  comes  the  Nihyaku- 
hatsuka,  or  period  when  the  middle  Fcrop  (nakate)  rice  is  in  bloom  and  the 
late  rice  (oktUe)  is  coming  to  maturity.  The  buckwheat  (soba)  crop  can  also 
suffer  serious  damage  in  this  month  and  influence  throughout  the  year  the 
cost  of  the  macaroni  made  from  it.  The  line  storm  often  brings  tidal  waves 
in  its  trail  to  the  coasts  of  Mie,  Shizuoka,  Kanagawa,  and  Chiba  prefectures. 
Odawara  and  Tokyo  sometimes  suffer  considerably  from  these  visitations. 

The  hot  days  after  the  doyo  are  oftentimes  hotter  than  their 
prototypes;  they  correspond  to  our  *  dog-days*  and  are  called 
zansho,  or '  remaining  heat.'  The  rain  now  falls  intermittently, 
and  heavy  storms  of  2-3  days'  duration  are  often  features  of 
the  season.  Bursts  of  fine  weather  follow  them,  and  about  mid- 
September  a  cool  tang  is  noticeable  in  the  air;  along  with  it 
oome  persistent  downpours  (which  often  last  through  to  mid- 
October)  and  cause  Sept.  to  be  considered  (in  the  Yokohama- 
T0ky5  region)  the  rainiest  month  oi  the  year  (against  January 
M  the  dryest).   A  sort  of  Indian  Summer  called    KoKaru 


Ixx  SEASONS 

C Little  Spring')  is  now  ushered  in,  with  mild  weather  and  a 
splendor  mdescribable.  The  whole  land  sparkles  and  glistens 
Wne  a  sunlit  jewel.  The  grieving  clouds  are  gone;  the  weeping, 
soaking  rains  have  been  replaced  by  dry,  clear,  crisp  weather, 
which  IS  not  only  beautiful  for  mountain  tramping  or  country- 
trips,  but  is  the  most  trustworthy  of  the  year  for  sight-seeing. 
The  displays  of  chrysanthemums  and  other  autumnal  flowers 
are  gorgeous  beyond  compare,  and  are  worth  coming  across 
the  wond  to  see.  Snow  is  apt  to  fall  after  the  2d  week  in 
Oct.  from  NildcS  N.,  and  travelers  to  Yezo  or  SaghaUen  may 
find  the  cold  imconifortable.  Many  of  the  mts.  don  their 
winter  capes  of  ermine  in  Sept.  and  Oct.,  and  in  the  latter 
month  (harvest-time)  the  temple  courts  are  usually  yellow 
with  the  brilliant  falling  leaves  of  the  icho  trees.  The  Nov.  and 
Dec.  days  in  Central  Japan  are  fine  and  still,  with  a  tang  of 
frost  about  their  edges;  brilliant  sunshine  is  a  constant  feature, 
and  it  seems  to  possess  a  golden  quality  not  observed  elsewhere. 
Nov.  is  called  MomijirdzuH  (* red-leaf  month '),  and  to  many  is 
the  most  delightful  of  the  year;  the  maple  displays  (magnificent 
at  Ky5to)  should  be  seen  by  every  stranger  to  Japan.  During 
this  season  of  wonderful  calm  the  trying  summer  is  forgotten 
and  the  Japanese  omit  to  search  the  sky  for  weather  indications 
or  to  remark:  *  Taukini  murakumo  hanani  haze'  —  *No  perfec- 
tion can  be  looked  for  when  clouds  cross  the  moon  or  the  wind 
sways  the  flowers.' 

Jan.,  Feb.,  and  March  bring  snow  flurries  in  Tokyo  and  Yoko- 
hiuna,  but  tne  white  mantle  does  not  harmonize  with  the  cam- 
cAias  which  bloom  throughout  the  year  in  the  open,  nor  with 
the  dainty  plum  blossoms  which  come  out  in  Jan. ;  and  it  does 
not  remain  long  upon  the  groimd.  The  midwinter  {chuto)  tem- 
perature is  raw  and  penetrating,  with  excessive  humidity, 
rather  than  extreme  cold.  To  a  German  or  a  New  Englander  it 
is  an  amiable  farce,  and  but  httle  like  the  winters  of  Dresden 
or  Boston.  The  period  of  so-called  greatest  cold  begins  in 
late  Jan.  and  ends  early  in  Feb. ;  it  is  called  daikarij  to  differen- 
tiate it  from  the  short  period  of  'small  cold'  {ahokan)  which 
follows  it.  Winter's  dying  gasp  is  called  yokan,  or  'remaining 
cold.'  The  Japanese  take  the  daikan  seriously.  Although  the 
thermometer  may  range  anywhere  between  30**  and  60" 
(Fahr.)  above,  they  bimdle  up  in  greatcoats  oftentimes  heavily 
Uned  with  fur;  wear  thick  and  bushy  rabbit-skin  ear-flaps; 
bury  heads  and  necks  in  voluininous  coat  collars,  and  convince 
themselves  that  they  are  in  imminent  danger  of  frost-bite  — 
just  as  the  people  of  N.  Japan  and  Yezo  are  in  reality.  To  the 
average  red-blooded  foreigner  a  spring  overcoat  is  a  burden, 
and  old  Sol  seems  to  smile  sardomcally  at  the  native  effort  to 
keep  teeth  from  chattering.  The  vernal  season  with  all  its 
glorious  promise  begins  March  18,  and  the  7  days  which  inter- 
Fene  between  wioter  and  spring  are  called  Uigan,  and  are 


BEA80N8   ^  hzi 

dediealMl  to  tho  wonhip  of  Buddha.  The  phim  Uossoms  a&d 
thonl^tiiigide — haifoingmof  Bining,aatliei^8taiJaaiidthe 
muSaoo  are  of  mininier  —  are  now  amoad,  and  the  Japanese 
mjt  'The  winter  is  past,  and  the  iroice  of  the  turtle  is  hesid  in 
omrlaiML' 

Tlie  mean  tempefatuie  is  about  40^  in  Jan.;  38^  in  Feb.:  44^ 
fa&  Maieh;  54"*  m  Ai^nl;  62'*  in  May;  es""  in  June;  75"*  m  Julv; 
7y  hi  Aug.  (with  a  mean  maxiininn  <rf  86^);  71^  m  Sept;  60**  in 
Oet;  SOP  m  Nov.,  and  41"*  in  Dec.  About  140  days  of  each 
year  are  rainy,  and'  148  nijghts  are  f roster.  Snow  falls  about  12 
times  durins  uie  year  (4  in  Jan.  and  4  in  Feb.),  but  it  rarely 
lallB  throughout  any  one  dav  or  night.  Thunderstonns  are 
aeitiier  fimmoit  nor  violent;  from  4  to  10  occur  in  Yokohama 
eaeh  year.  In  the  Inland  Sea  the  heaviest  rainfall  is  in  June; 
OD  the  S.W.  coast  oi  EytkshU  from  A^pH  to  June.  Most  rain 
idls  in  the  8.  E.  part  ol  Japan,  especially  on  the  £.  coasts  of 
KyOflha  and  ffliikoku,  where  the  annual!  quantity  reaches  an 
Kveta^  of  100  inches.  Fogs  are  frequent  along  the  Pacific 
eoast  m  q>ring  and  summor,  and  ihey  often  id«ilise  the  sea 
and  shore 

An  entirely  different  set  of  conditions  i»evailB  at  the  N.,  and 
be^nd  the  great  barrier  range  which  separates  TOky<V  from  the 
fiea  of  Japm,  Here,  where  tne  country  is  not  influ^ced  by  the 
eqaatoriiu  current,  and  is  exposed  to  the  fierce  Iberian  winds, 
ifgofous  winter  (Oenkan)  prevails.  Often  while  flowers  are 
blooming  at  T0l^5  and  the  W.,  entire  villages  in  the  provinces 
of  Shinano,  Echigo,  Uzen,  and  Mutsu  are  buried  under  10  ft. 
or  more  of  snow,  and  the  people  are  forced  to  follow  their  voca- 
tions in  the  curious  manner  described  at  p.  Iviii.  Here  5-6  ft.  of 
snow  may  remain  on  the  ground  for  weeks  on  end^  whHe  the 
15-20  ft.  drifts  in  the  valleys  and  ravines  snow-m  the  rly. 
trains  and  hold  them  prisoners  for  days  at  a  time.  The  lofty 
mts.  are  all  snow-covered,  and  the  contrast  between  the  frost- 
bound  giants  and  the  sniiling,  summer-like  landscape  of  the 
Pacific  Slope  is  complete.  From  some  of  these  mts.  the  snow 
melts  and  disappears  only  when  the  summer  is  exceptionally 
warm.  Usuallv  these  are  like  the  summers  of  T5ky5,  oppres- 
sively hot.  Tne  summer  temperature  of  Niigata  varies  but 
little  from  that  of  T5ky5,  while  the  winters  are  many  degrees 
eolder;  quite  Arctic  in  their  severity.  The  provinces  between 
the  Japan  Sea  and  the  Pacific  present  remarkable  peculiarities 
of  dimate;  in  the  valleys  deep  snow  covers  the  ground  through- 
out the  winter,  and  the  sky  is  wrapped  in  a  dark  veil  of  cloims, 
00  that  bri^t  days  are  a  rarity.  The  traveler  who  stands  on 
one  of  the  high  passes  of  the  Central  Mt.  Range  in  Dec,  mid- 
way between  the  Japan  Sea  and  Tdky5,  will  note  with  surprise 
while  toward  the  Pacific  the  skies  may  be  blue  and  the  air 
p.  with  a  suggestion  of  spring,  deep-gray  clouds  biood 
•^■the  kmdj^  Japan  Sea.    Many  ot  the  people  oi  tba 


Ixxii 


STORM  SIGNALS 


toast  sit  in  the  upper  rooms  of  their  houses  in  order  to  enjoy 
the  daylight.  Shmano  is  a  region  of  blizzards  that  are  a  bane 
to  the  rly.  company.  On  tlj^e  W.  coast  there  are  two  months 
of  maximum  rainfall,  July  and  Nov. 

The  frigid  winters  of  the  N.  are  6-7  months  long,  with  a 
correspondingly  late  spring,  and  occasionally  a  cool  summer. 
Heavy,  warm  snows  sometunes  fall  thickly  and  softly  in  Cen- 
tral Japan,  between  Yokohama  and  Kobe,  but  they  disappear 
quickly.  The  relative  moisture  is  greater  in  the  S.  of  Japan 
than  at  the  N.;  on  the  average  it  amoimts  to  82%  for  the 
warm  season,  71%  for  the  cold,  and  76%  for  the  year.  The 
rainy  season  of  early  summer  begins  later  and  later  as  we 
go  N.,  and  finally  coalesces  in  Yezo  (where  it  is  neither  so  hot 
nor  so  wet)  with  the  autunm  rains.  —  When  a  drought  is  feared 
in  rural  Japan,  the  peasant  farmers  send  out  parties  to  climb 
mt.  peaks  and  pray  for  rain.  Men  with  good  limgs  make  their 
way  to  shrines  aedicated  to  the  mt.  goblins,  and,  with  branches 
of  creeping-pine  brought  up  from  below,  make  bonfires,  and 
give  a  mimic  representation  of  the  kind  of  storm  they  would 
like.  If  the  sculptured  idol  in  the  shrine  fails  to  take  heed  of 
their  supplication,  he  is  not  unfrequently  dragged  out  and 

E itched  headforemost  into  an  evil-smelling  paddy-field,  so  that 
e  may  know  how  it  feels  to  need  water! 
To  facilitate  a  ready  understanding  of  its  weather  reports 
the  Meteorological  Observatory  has  divided  Japan  into  10  dis- 
tricts, as  follows:  (1)  Formosa  and  the  Loochoo  Islands;  (2)  S. 
half  of  Kyushu  and  Shikoku  Islands;  (3)  Inland  Sea;  (4)  N.W. 
Kyushu  and  the  W.  coast  of  the  Main  Island  as  far  N.  as 
Kyoto;  (5)  from  Iseto  Tokyo  and  the  Tonegawa;  (6)  the 
interior  provinces  to  the  N.  of  the  5th  district,  from  Hida  on 
the  W.  to  Iwashiro  on  the  E. ;  (7)  the  N.W.  coast  from  Wakasa 
to  Ugo;  (8)  the  Pacific  coast  from  the  Tonegawa  to  Sendai  and 
Miyako;  (9)  Rikuchti  Province  and  the  W.  half  of  Yezo  Island; 
(10)  the  E.  half  of  Yezo  and  the  Kurile  Islands.  An  outline 
sketch  of  this  will  be  found  in  certain  of  the  newspapers,  under 
the  daily  weather  forecast. 

Storm  Signals  as  follows  are  shown  from  all  the  fully 
equipped  si^ial  stations  on  the  coast  of  Japan. 


Day  signal 

Night  signal 

Indication 

Az«dbaU 

A  red  cylinder 
A  red  cone,  point 

upward 
A  red  cone,  point 

downward 
A  white  diamond 

A  led  light 

A  green  light 

A  red  over  a  green 

light 
A  green  over  a  red 

light 
A  white  light 

Threatening  weather  is  ex- 
pected 

Stormy  weather  expected 

Heavy  storm  expected,  wind 
shifting  from  E.  to  S. 

Heavy  storm  expected,  wind 
shifting  from  £.  to  N. 

Storm  warnings  have  been  is- 
sued in  certain  other  districts 

HEALTH  Izxiii 

The^r  wiU  be  of  interjsst  to  travders  plaiming  sea  trips,  as  high 
innds  are  apt  to  produce  boisterous  or  choppy  seas.  Signal 
staffs  are  pamted  red  and  white  in  bands.  Typhoon  si^nJs 
are  made  Q>y  dav)  from  a  mast  with  a  yard,  by  means  of  shapes. 
colored  red,  used  as  symbols;  and  by  night  by  means  of  colorea 
li^to.  At  Yokohama  they  are  exposed  from  the  French  Ha- 
toba,  and  are  visible  from  any  of  the  hotels  facing  the  Bund. 

In  addition  to  the  above  the  following  signals  are  made  dur- 
ing daylight  to  indicate  probable  weather  for  the  next  24  hrs. : 

A  white  triangular  flag  indicates  N.  or  N^.  winds. 
A  green  triangular  fla^  indicates  E.  and  S.E.  winds. 
A  red  triangular  flag  indicates  S.  or  S.W.  winds. 
A  blue  triangular  flag  indicates  W.  or  N;W.  winds. 
A  white  square  fia^  indicates  fair  weather. 
A  blue  square  flag  indicates  rain.j 
A  xed  square  flag  indicates  cloudy  weather. 
A  green  square  flag  indicates  snow. 

A  red  and  white  burgee  indicates  that  strong  winds  or  gales  are  probable 
in  the  neighborhood. 

Health.  Japan  is  as  healthy  as  any  countiy  similarly  situated, 
and  the  advanced  sanitary  measures  insisted  upon  rigidly  by  the 
authorities  are  steadily  diminishing  the  mortsdity  returns.  But 
as  it  is  veary  difficult  to  impress  upon  an  ignorant  lower  class 
the  necessity  for  observing  hygienic  rules,  it  devolves  upon  the 
traveler  to  take  certain  precautions  to  guard  against  the  dis- 
eases which  sometimes  prevail.  Of  these  one  of  the  most  for- 
midable is  dysentery,  a  malady  usually  traceable  to  indiscreet 
eating  or  drinking.   As  the  most  persistent  conveyors  of  the 
germs  are  water  and  milk^  the  unimmune  cannot  be  too  stronglv 
cautioned  against  drinking  either  that  has  not  been  boiled. 
Filtering  is  thought  not  to  remove  the  germs  from  water,  and 
as  the  native  servants  are  oftentimes  ignorant  of  the  most  fun- 
damental principles  of  hygiene,  and  are  as  careless  about  pollut- 
ing the  water-supply  as  they  are  in  boiling  it  and  then  leaving 
it  uncovered,  the  safest  plan  is  to  attend  personally  to  its  prep- 
aration or  to  drink  one  of  the  good  mineral  waters  bottled  m 
the  country.  Aerated  water  should  be  drunk  in  preference  to 
plain  water,  even  in  private  houses,  and  the  water  at  rly.  sta- 
tions should  be  rigorously  avoided.    Water  in  which  tea  is 
steep^  cannot  be  depended  upon,  since  it  is  not  the  custom  to 
bring  it  to  a  boil.  Wells  are  common  in  Japan,  and  the  water  is 
apt  to  be  dangerous.  The  prudent  traveler  will  hesitate  before 
drinking  from  any  spring  or  rivulet,  however  clear  it  may  look, 
unless  he  is  at  its  source;  otherwise  it  is  almost  sure  to  drain 
one  or  more  paddy-fields  fertilized  with  unspeakable  filth;  or 
to  incur  the  risk  of  pollution  higher  up.    Rice-fields,  which 
necessitate  water  and  enriching,  sometimes  occupy  unusually 
h^  places,  and  the  loftiest  spring  in  the  Empire  (on  the  sum- 
mit of  FvQisan),  is  contaimnated  by  thousands  of  pilgrims 
eadi  year.  As  certain  natives  have  no  scruples  against  copying 
tiiB  labels  of  jneiitonous  articles  (particularly  f^-atufis)  and 


Ixxiv  HEALTH 

selling  grossly  adulterated  shams  for  the.real  thing,  the  traveler 
has  to  be  on  his  guard  constantly,  as  the  dealers  seem  callous 
to  the  danger  to  health  arising  from  them.  Imported  and  lo- 
cally produced  beers  and  mineral  waters  come  in  for  particular 
attention  on  the  part  of  these  gentry,  and  so  dangerous  and 
abominable  are  some  of  the  beverages  Dottled  by  unscrupulous 
merchants,  that  the  Gov't  recently  instituted  a  crusade  against 
them,  and  forbade  the  admixture  in  drinks  of  methyl  alcohol, 
aniline  dyes,  and  other  impure  and  deleterious  substances. 
Japan  is  a  land  of  natural  mineral  springs,  but  the  water  is  not 
always  bottled  with  the  care  which  health  now  demands.  One 
of  the  oldest,  best-known,  and  most  popular  mineral  waters 
(widely  drunk  by  foreigners)  is  the  Taka.radzuka  Tansan. 
Many  bottlers  of  mineral  water  use  the  word  tansan  C  carbcmic 
acid  )  on  their  labels,  but  travelers  will  do  well  to  demand  the 
original  (large  bottles,  dairbinf  30-35  sen;  smaller  ones,  hhbin, 
or  chiisaiy  20  sen;  spHts,  10-12  sen),  since  this  is  known  to  be 
wholesome.  A  visit  to  the  imiquely  beautiful  spring  (near 
Kobe,  Rte.  37)  where  it  is  prepared  (travelers  welcome)  is 
also  recommended.^  A  strict  adherence  to  the  best  in  Japan 
may  be  the  stitch  in  time  that  will  save  an  attack  of  typhoid 
and  six  weeks  in  the  hospital. 

Beer  {hiiru — an  adaptation  from  the  English  word)  is  now 
almost  as  much  the  national  drink  of  Japan  as  it  is  of  Germany, 
and  vast  quantities  are  brewed  and  drunk  in  the  Empire  — 
where  it  was  introduced  about  1870.  Some  of  that  made 
locally  is  considerably  cheaper  than  the  imported,  and  equally 

galatable.  The  *  Sapporo,  Ehisu,*  *  Asahiy^  and  '  MMmmener  * 
rands  (unknown  marks  should  be  avoided)  of  the  Dai  Nippon 
Brewery  Company,  Ltd.,  —  a  huge,  12  million  yen  corporation 
with  several  immense  breweries  and  an  output  of  10  million 
gallons  yearly,  —  are  among  the  brands  Qarge  bottles,  35  sen; 
small  ones,  20  sen)  liked  by  foreigners.  The  breweries  have  a 
reputation  for  cleanliness  and  are  said  to  be  modeled  after, 
and  conducted  on  the  lines  of,  the  best  ones  of  Germany.  The 
hops  used  are  grown  in  Japan. 

Strangers  will  do  well  to  eat  sparingly  of  unfamiliar  fruits 
and  vegetables  until  they  become  acquainted  with  their  after 
effects.  Unwashed  groimd  fruits  (strawberries,  and  the  like) 
should  not  be  eaten,  nor  should  unclean  lettuce,  or  raw  fish. 
Smallpox  sometimes  ravages  the  rural  districts,  out  f orei^ers 
seem  singularly  exempt  —  no  doubt  due  to  better  samtary 
measures.  The  same  applies  to  cholera,  which  killed  30,000 
natives  m  1890.  and  2000  in  1912.  The  alert  health  officers  are 
usually  successful  in  keeping  the  bubonic  plague  under  control, 
but  are  not  so  markedly  fortunate  with  consumption  and  otib^ 
diseases  of  the  respiratory  organs,  which  kill  10,000  out  of  the 
40, 000  persons  who  die  during  each  year  in  T5ky5  alone.  Other 
diaeaaes  prevalent  among  the  Japanese,  but  against  which 


WHAT  TO  WEAR  tav 

f  oidgDerB  can  readily  adopt  preventive  measures,  are  dyspepsia 
<due  to  fast  and  improper  eating) ;  beri-beri,  or  kakke  (caused 
hj  eating  too  much  polished  rice};  and  trachoma,  which  phyei- 
dans  believe  is  due  to  public  bathing  and  various  unhygienic 
Gostoms.  Dysentery  may  be  said  to  be  endemic;  it  remains 
quiescent  for  a  time,  then  (usually  in  summer)  becomes  diffused, 
and  is  so  widely  distributed  (impure  water,  etc.)  that  25,000 
cases  have  been  known  in  the  Empire  at  one  time.  As  it  has 
been  determined  definitely  that  many  diseases  are  communi- 
cated (through  food  and  drink)  by  the  agencv  of  flies  (not  very 
numerous  in  Japan),  and  that  the  bubonic  plague  is  carried  by 
Pulex  serraticeps  (unusually  common),  the  traveler  can  take 
the  necessary  precautions.  It  is  of  great  importance  to  avoid 
sudden  chills,  and  strangers  should  not  only  wear  the  cholera- 
biuid  mentioned  at  p.  Ixxvii,  but  should  refrain  from  trifling  with 
slight  indispositions — which  may  lead  to  more  serious  things. 
There  are  excellent  foreign  physicians  in  all  the  large  Japanese 
ports,  and  their  fees  are  reasonable.  Tourists  easily  affected  by 
poison  ivy  and  similar  substances  may  like  to  remember  that 
certain  cheap  lacquered  articles  may  not  be  handled  in  moist, 
hot  weather  with  impunity,  as  the  varnish  used  on  them  is 
made  of  a  species  of  sumac  that  is  poisonous  to  susceptible 
persons. 

What  to  wear.  Foreigners  in  the  Far  East  are  usually  hos- 
intable  to  a  fault,  and  even  total  strangers  unequipped  witii 
fetters  of  introduction  rarely  get  out  of  the  country  without 
being  entertained  by  some  one.  The  Japanese  are  no  whit  less 
prompt  to  open  their  hearts  and  doors  —  or  those  of  some 
charming  tearhouse  —  to  travelers  from  across  the  water,  and 
the  prudent  person  will  include  a  dress-suit  or  one  for  semi-dress 
in  his  or  her  outfit.  Although  many  persons  dress  for  dinner  on 
the  transpacific  ships,  the  custom  is  not  so  strongly  implanted 
as  on  those  plying  between  Japan  and  Europe;  fancy-dress 
balls  and  dances  are  features  on  both,  and  expenenced  travelers 
usually  provide  themselves  with  some  sort  of  a  bizarre  outfit 
before  stiEirting.  Men  invited  to  the  Imperial  Garden  Parties 
at  T5ky5  are  always  given  engraved  cards  advising  that  top 
hats  and  frock  coats  (Prince  Albert)  are  de  rigueur  (admit- 
timoe  refused  without  them).   Ladies  should  remember  that 
mourning  costumes  are  tabooed  at  these  functions,  and  that 
whosoever  persists  in  wearing  one  may  be  turned  back  at  the 
Bate.   The  same  clothing  that  one  finds  comfortable  in  the 
jNorth  of  the  United  States  or  Europe  in  the  spring,  autumn, 
ami  winter  will  be  suitable  for  Central  and  Northern  Japan 
during  the  same  seasons.  Fur  coats  and  sealskins  are  unneces- 
sary in  any  part  of  the  country  W.  of  Tokyo  (except  on  mt. 
tops),  and  when  one  leaves  the  U.S.A.  witn  garments  ol  lYvB 
litter,  they  should  be  repstered  and  a  permit  secured,  to  pie- 
Wii  eonSscatlon  or  the  imposition  of  heavy  duties  wlieii  l\ie^ 


hain  WHAT  TO  WEAR 

are  returned.  Thin  clothing  is  worn  through  the  hot  sui 
-flannels,  cotton  duck,  and  thin  silks  being  popular.  ^ 
these,  and  white  shoes  and  hats,  one  may  find  diffic 
keeping  cool.  Indian  pith-helmets,  or  solar-topees  (c 
wn)  form  the  favorite  headgear  of  the  foreign  resid 
Japan,  and  men  and  women  alike  wear  them.  Strange 
wear  the  special  bamboo  sun-hats  favored  by  coolies 
to  be  derided  by  the  latter.  White  suits  for  men  and 
axe  made  quickly  and  cheaply  by  the  Chinese  tailo 
infest  the  hotels  and  plague  the  incoming  traveler,  bi 
know  so  little  about  fitting  the  *  foreign  devil '  and  6( 
about  *  squeezing '  him  that  he  does  best  who  goes  to 
class  foreign  tailor  and  buys  outfits  in  which  he  is  not  at 
to  appear  when  he  returns  home.  Complete  wardrobe 
beautiful  silken  underwear  to  heavy,  fur-lined  coats, 
bought  cheaper  in  Japan  than  in  Europe  or  America,  bu 
and  shoes  are  dearer.  Women  Uke  the  quality,  workm 
and  price  of  the  stlk  dresses,  skirts,  and  exquisite  ha 
broidered  shirt-waists  made  in  Japan.  For  knockabout 
the  uniquely  excellent  and  oftentimes  very  pretty  native 
crape  (women  chijimi)  is  as  serviceable  as  it  is  for  the  ur 
himano.  It  comes  in  solid  colors,  stripes,  and  figured  p 
(in  several  grades),  and  the  best  outwears  any  foreign  n 
of  similar  make.  For  men's  shirts  (the  best  cost  36  \ 
dozen)  and  pyjamas  (Hindustani,  Pyjammas,  or  dra\^ 
is  admirable.  Even  the  destructive  American  laundrie 
un^ible  to  shorten  its  lon^  fife,  and  no  other  shirt  materi 
widely  popular  with  foreigners.  Drill  suitings  are  a  bit  c 
in  China  than  in  Japan,  because  of  the  import  duty, 
many  inferior  grades  of  cloth  are  made  up  specially  f( 
market,  that  travelers  buying  outfits  in  the  China  port 
be  on  their  guard.  Rubber-soled  canvas  shoes  are  the  I 
a  ship's  deck.  For  8-9  months  of  the  year,  ladies  in  Yoi 
and  Tokyo  need  thin  blouses  for  the  day,  and  a  wrap,  i 
thin,  as  soon  as  the  sun  goes  down.  Even  in  summer  the 
(because  of  the  excessive  dampness)  are  apt  to  be  ch 
rain-coat  is  essential;  those  who  can  find  the  space  shoul 
equipped  with  two  —  a  heavy  one  for  winter  and  a  light 
summer,  at  which  time  the  warm  rains  make  of  a  wintei 
intofiJi  an  almost  intolerable  burden.  Steamer  blank 
sometimes  as  essential  on  the  Pacific  Ocean  as  on  the  Ai 
they  make  desirable  additions  to  one's  bed  on  cold  nigh 
are  useful  when  riding  in  jinrikis  or  in  unheated  can 
traveler  may  like  to  remember  that  moths  abound  in 
and  that  constant  vigilance  is  required  to  keep  them 
woolen  thin^.  Also  that. the  ships  of  the  Canadian 
Royal  Mail  line  and  those  of  the  Toyo  Kisen  Kaish 
laundries  aboard  which  make  unnecessary  extensive  oul 
a  9-17  day  voyage,  UnaccUmated  tourists  are  strongly 


HINTS  TO  TRAVELERS.  Ixroi 

mended  to  wear  (at  alQ  times)  a  flannel  '  kanuxrband'  (often 
called  cholerarband)  in  the  fonn  of  a  strip  of  flannel  or  woolea 
doth  8-12  inches  wide  bound  round  the  stomach :  they  are 
widely  used  in  India,  China,  and  Japan;  are  on  sale  at  most 
dn^m'  establishments,  and  are  excellent  safeguards  against 
^ymt&cy  and  allied  ills  (which  often  result  from  a  chill) . 

Hints  to  Travelers.  An  ample  supply  of  visiting-cards 
Bhoold  be  taken  to  the  Far  East,  where  they  are  in  constant  use. 
Fizamns  diould  be  left  at  home,  as  they  are  not  needed  in 
Japan  —  where  life  is  safe.  In  traveling,  a  steamer  trunk  or  a 
blanket-roll  with  capacious  pockets  is  better  than  a  big,  heavy 
toik  (always  out  of  place  at  inns),  as  either  can  be  carried  in  a 
prnki.  If  ppsisible  heavy  trunks  should  be  stored  on  first  land- 
ing, and  omy  those  taken  along  that  can  be  easily  handled  by 
a  120-lb.  man.  There  are  shipping-agents  in  every  port  who 
make  a  business  of  caring  for  travelers'  luggage,  ana  re-ship- 
ping it  wherever  wanted.  The  straw  hampers  (Kori)  so  much 
usea  by  the  Japanese  make  excellent  and  cheap  additions  to 
one's  lu^age,  and  save  more  expensive  trunks.  The  floors 
of  most  Jai)anese  dwelling  are  straw  mats  covered  with  a  fine, 
Bofter  straw  fabric  so  easily  injured  by  heavy  shoes  or  clogs 
that  it  is  customary  to  remove  these  before  entering  a  room. 
Japanese  men  who  can  afford  them  wear  kid-leather  gaiters, 
with  rubber  gussets,  or  a  type  of  kid  slipper  known  to  the  shoe 
trade  as  the '  Faust '  moael.  The  iron  nails  in  foreign-made 
shoes  so  often  leave  indentations  in  the  soft  wood  of  floors, 
prches,  stairs,  sills,  and  the  like  that  modem  offices,  museimis, 
notels,  and  other  pubUc  buildings  are  usually  provided  with 
ordinary  floors.  Shoes  must,  however,  be  removed  before  one 
can  enter  temples,  and  where  foot-covering  is  not  provid^  by 
the  priest  in  charge,  the  traveler  should  carry  with  him  slippers 
or  the  well-known  blue  cotton  slip-overs  (uTVOr-gvtsu)  whicn  any 
native  cobbler  (kvisushi)  will  make  to  measure  for  about  a  yen. 
They  are  useful  in  many  places,  and  particularly  at  inns,  where 
the  slippers  provided  are  generally  too  small  for  foreigners. 

Pedestrians  in  Japan  should  travel  lightly,  and  remember 
that  a  little  talc-powder  shaken  into  shoes  cools  chafed  feet  and 
makes  walking  easier.  They  are  cautioned  against  giving  inn- 
keepers wet  or  muddy  boots  (kutsu)  to  be  dried  or  cleaned 
before  the  kitchen  (daidokoro)  fire,  for  very  likely  they  will  be 
turned  over  to  some  ignorant  or  thoughtless  servant  who  will 
place  them  too  near  the  hot  coals  and  thus'  bum  them  stiff. 
This  either  warps  them  so  that  one  has  difficulty  in  getting 
them  on,  or  it  renders  them  so  brittle  that  after  a  few  hours' 
use  they  fall  to  pieces.  More  than  one  pedestrian  (the  writer 
included)  has  had  to  complete  journeys  shod  with  straw  san- 
didSy  as  foreign  boots  or  shoes  are  not  always  obtainable  in 
country  districts.  Women  will  find  the  excellent  silk  bloomera, 
M  WiuaB  short  flJdrfer,  made  by  the  loc&l  tailors,  very  \iaef\iV  on 


IxxviH  HINTS  TO  TRAVELERS 

country  trips  which  include  mt.  climbing.  Old  shoes  are  best  to 
walk  in,  and  it  is  risky  to  start  out  on  a  long  tramp  with  new 
shoes  not  yet  accommodated  to  the  feet.  Mt.  climbers  should 
always  wear  (in  addition  to  regular  footwear)  the  cheap  and 
comfortable  sandal  (waraji,  made  of  warGf  or  '  straw';  cost 
10-20  sen  a  pair  and  obtainable  anjrwhere),  as  they  not  only 
save  shoe  leather,  but  make  walking  much  more  comfortable. 
They  are  invaluable  on  steep  inclines  or  slippery  paths  where 
a  misstep  might  prove  inconvenient.  Big  ones,  to  fit  foreign 
feet,  can  usually  be  had  at  the  country  hotels.  New  suit-cases 
and  the  like  taken  on  country  trips  should  be  protected  by  can- 
vas covers,  particularly  where  pack-animals  are  used,  as  the 
process  of  roping  them  on  often  damages  them.  Two  steamer 
trunks,  or  packages  of  a  similar  size,  constitute  the  accepted 
limit  for  pack-horses.  Cameras  should  be  protected  bv  the. 
oiled  (and  waterproofed)  paper  (aburorgami)  for  sale  almost, 
everywhere  (12-15  sen  for  a  big  sheet) ;  it  serves  excellently 
in  lieu  of  a  rain-coat;  is  very  light;  takes  up  but  little  room,  and', 
often  pays  for  itself  many  times  over.  The  native  umbrella. 
(karakasa)  made  of  the  same  material  will  keep  off  a  driving 
rain  more  effectively  than  will  a  silk  one.  A  white  cover  for  the 
ordinary  umbrella  is  desirable  (ponpee  covers  are  on  sale  at 
drapers  shops).  In  mountainous  districts  a  good  field-glass 
ana  a  compass  are  indispensable.  Gloves  also  preserve  the 
hands  from  the  bites  of  sand-flies;  vaseline,  the  face  from  sun- 
bum;  and  goggles,  the  eyea  from  the  glare  of  snow  or  sand. 

The  social  lonns  in  the  foreign  communities  in  Japan  are 
similar  to  those  of  England  and  America,  with  a  trine  more 
punctiliousness  than  characterizes  those  of  the  latter  country. 
The  Japanese  are  patterns  of  politeness,  and  the  intelligent 
classes  understand  the  various  forms  in  vogue  abroad.  The 
traveler  who  believes  that  laxity  in  their  observance  will  not 
be  noticed  deceives  himself  only,  and  pays  for  the  deception 
by  the  loss  in  esteem  of  a  people  whose  good  will  is  well  worth 
having.  On  the  other  hand,  the  tolerant  Japanese  do  not  expect 
strangers  to  understand  the  intricacies  of  their  own  stilted  eti- 
quette, and  they  are  quick  to  overlook  and  forgive  uninten- 
tional slights  or  slips,  —  particularly  in  the  case  of  strangers 
who  accord  them  the  respect  they  deserve.  Ladies  must  accus- 
tom themselves  to  the  distressing  habits  and  semi-nude  persons 
of  coolies,  jinriki-men  and  others  of  the  lower-classes,  as  the 
tendency  to  improvement  is  not  yet  noticeable.  The  Anplo- 
Saxons  have  established  a  reputation  for  truthfulness  and  jus- 
tice tlux)ughout  Asia,  and  it  is  the  duty  of  each  individual  to 
maintain  it. 

When  riding  or  driving  one  should  remember  that  the  Japan- 
ese rule  of  the  road  follows  the  En^sh  (not  the  American  or 
Continentid)  system,  and  that  it  is  imperative  to  turn  to  the 
Jeft  (not  to  the  ngfat)  when  vehicles  or  pedestrians  are  met.  la 


RAILWAYS  Ixxiz 

the  Far  'East  the  North  is  the  sacred  quarter,  and  the  quarter 
whence  trouble  is  supposed  to  come.  Anciently  the  sovereign 
stood  in  the  North  on  all  state  occasions,  and  his  palace  in  the 
northern  part  of  the  city  faced  the  South.  The  aead  are  sup- 
posed to  be  laid  with  their  heads  to  the  North,  and  when  pos- 
sible the  living  carefully  avoid  this  position  for  sleep.  Hasty 
generalizations  made  by  immature  observers  to  the  effect  that 
Japanese  babies  don't  cry,  the  birds  don't  sing,  the  flowers  are 
oraorless,  and  the  fruits  tasteless,  etc.,  are  as  silly  as  unquali- 
fied statements  of  a  like  nature  are  usually.  The  babies  and 
the  flowers  —  at  once  tearful  and  fragrant  —  are  much  like 
those  of  other  lands.  The  passionate  love-song  of  the  nightin- 
gale is  one  of  the  sweetest  things  heard  in  the  Japanese  forest : 
and  while  the  native  pear  may  be  tasteless,  the  seductive  curea 
persimmon  is  of  a  flavor  so  fine  and  delicate  that  life  with- 
out it  is  drab  and  che^less!  If  the  people  appear  inscrutable,  it 
18  owing  in  great  part  to  centuries  of  traimng,  and  to  the  fact 
that  the  average  Japanese  has  considerable  self-restraint  and 
is  a  better  and  more  non-committal  listener  than  the  average 
Occidental.  These  who  consider  the  women  the  personification 
of  meekness  should  remember  the  witty  Frenchman's  remark: 
'La  langue  des  femmes  eat  leur  ip^,  et  eUes  ne  la  laissent  pas 
rouiUer/  Militant  and  loquacious 'suffragettes  rule  man^r  a 
Japanese  household,  the  henpecked  husbands  in  which  wish 
devoutly  that  their  demure-appearing  spouses  possessed  less 
of  that  naive  self-consciousness  which  unpressionist  writers 
deny  them.  Many  of  the  suicides  registered  among  women  are 
said  to  be  due  as  much  to  spite  as  to  love.  The  open-minded, 
patient,  and  receptive  traveler  will  get  the  most  out  of  his  visit 
to  Japan.  While  it  may  be  difficult  sometimes  for  him  to  rec- 
oncile 20th  cent,  progress  'and  enlightenment  with  the  sacred 
horses,  the  weird  gods  and  devils,  and  the  idolatrous  practices 
in  the  temples,  he  will  be  reminded  that  Japan  has  a  large 
population  which  still  clings  tenaciously  to  the  old  customs 
and  creeds.  And  it  is  well  for  the  traveler  that  they  do  so,  for 
when  this  picturesque  and  harmless  element  is  eliminated,  and 
the  people  adopt  in  toto  the  doleful  monotony  of  Western  dress 
and  .custom,  there  will  be  little  worth  seeing  in  Dai  Nippon 
apart  from  Fujir-san  and  the  *  Three  Great  Sights.' 

£.  Means  of  Transportation.^ 

The  Railways  (tetaudo,  or  *  iron  road')  are  owned  and  oper- 
ated chiefly  by  the  Railway  Bureau  (tetsudokyoku)  of  the  Im- 

1  The  best  railway  guide  (ryoko  annai)  is  issued  (under  the  title  of  Train 
Service)  free  (new  editions  about  once  every  3  months)  by  the  Traffic  Depart- 
ment of  the  Rly.  Bureau;  copies  (in  English)  are  obtainable  at  any  lar^ 
•Itttaon.  Besides  time-tables  which  embrace  all  the  train  data  the  tourist  iB 
Wflt  to  want,  the  booklet  contains  considerable  useful  information  Te\atVii\&  to 
M — mm — 1^_  jyjj  r^fulatioiu',  excuraioD  tioketa,  etc.,  and  to  p<nntB  ol  in^ieaj^ 


Ixxx  RAILWAYS 

peruU  Japanese  Gov't,  and  are  excellent,  well-managed,  and 
remarkably  safe.  In  point  of  general  trustworthiness  and 
equipment  they  compare  f  avora^  with  those  of  the  most  pro- 
gressive countries  of  the  world.  The  extensive  system  is  under- 
going steady  improvement,  and  the  aim  of  the  Gov't  is  to  grid- 
uon  the  Empire  with  railroads  which  eventually  will  ram^  as 
high  as  those  of  America,  Germany,  and  England.  The  narrow 

gauge  (3  ft.  5  in.)  precludes  the  doubtful  luxury  of  high  speeds, 
ut  so  makes  for  safety  that  bad  accidents  are  rare.  The  lines 
are  run  on  business  methods,  to  please  and  to  serve  the  public, 
and  the  system  is  almost  as  thorough  as  that  of  Germany. 
Local  trains  (kisha,  or  namirffisha)  run  at  a  speed  ranging  from 
17-25  M.  anhr.;  express  trains  (kyukd^easha)  at  a  25-^5  M. 
rate.  Distances  are  relatively  G^ort,  and  as  the  scenery  along 
many  of  the  lines  is  not  only  charming  but  in  places  magnifi- 
cent, the  stranger  should  plan  to  do  as  much  traveling  as  pos- 
sible by  daylight.  Local  trains  that  follow  expresses  are  often- 
times less  crowded  and  therefore  more  comfortable  than  the 
former,  besides  being  cheaper.  The  Continental,for  English 
type  of  compartment  carriage  is  run  on  many  of  them,  and 
from  such  cars  one  can  not  only  get  better  views  of  the  country, 
but  the  lonjg  seats  facilitate  lymg  down.  One  not  unfrequently 
has  the  entire  compartment  of  a  1st  or  even  a  2d.  cl.  car  to  one^ 
self,  with  the  added  privacjr  not  possible  in  the  corridor  cars 
(kyakysha),  with  a  central  aisle  and  a  line  of  seats  backing  up 
against  the  windows,  run  on  fast  trains.  The  best  equipment 
includes  toilet  arrangements;  electric  lights,  fans,  and  bells; 
steam  heat;  thermometers  to  register  the  temperature;  slippers 
for  the  use  of  passengers;  and  many  little  conveniences  as 
pleasing  as  they  are  imexpected.  While  the  hypercritical  per- 
son usually  finds  things  at  which  to  grumble,  the  thoughtful 
and  considerate'traveler  will  remember  that  98%  of  the  travel 
is  Japanese  (5%  1st  cl.;  20%  2d;  and  75%  3d),  and  that  to  in- 
troduce costly  refinements  to  please  the  remaining  2%  would 
entail  a  financial  hardship  which  almost  any  company  would 
hesitate  to  undertake.  Furthermore,  the  insular  folks  consider 
the  trains  now  running  as  marvels  of  human  ingenuity  and 
magnificent  mechanical  achievements. 

The  1st  and  2d  cl.  compartments  differ  only  in  the  uphol- 
stering; they  are  generally  separated  merely  by  a  partition, 
and  both  are  clean,  well-cared-for,  and  liberally  patronized  by 
foreigners  and  natives  alike.  Foreign  residents  —  particularly 
the  common-sense  British  and  Germans  —  usually  travel  2d 

throughout  the  Empire.  The  riy.  map  in  colors  is  excellent.  The^  Depart- 
ment also  issues  from  time  to  time  handsome  and  desirable  pictorial  literature 
0[uidebook8,!picture-albunu9  and  the  like),  which  not  only  are  useful,  but  are 
artistic  and  desirable  souvenirs.  Apply  to  the  Traffic  Department,  Imperial 
Gov't  Rlys.,  Gofuku-bashi,  Tdkyd;  English  spoken.  Yoahio  Kinoshiia^ 
Traffic  Manager;  Cfiichiroh  Nakatani,  Aas't  T.  Mgr.;  8.  Mikami,  General 
J^Mseiwer  Agent.  / 


RAILWAYS  ksd 

d.  The  3d  cl.  cars  are  not  unfrequentlv  packed  to  suffocation 
by  people  of  the  commonalty,  and  as  wey  are  often  devoid  of 
toilet  conveniences  they  are  not  liked  by  foreigners. 

Fibst-Class  Cars  (jdtd)  have  white  stripes  on  their  sides ;  the 
2d  d.  ichatd)  blue,  and  the  3d  cl.  (katd)  red;  the  corresponding 
tickets  (kippu)  are  white,  blue,  and  red.  As  the  stations  are 
fenced  in,  tickets  must  be  shown  and  snipped  at  the  wicket 
separating  the  w£dting-room  (machiaishitsii)  from  the  platform 
before  one  can  enter,  and  must  be  given  up  before  one  can 
leave.  Ck)nmiendable  features  are  the  placards  fastened  to  the 
outside  of  cars  and  marked  with  their  destination  (sometimes 
the  terminal  station  rather  than  the  town  itself).  Inspectors 
often  pass  through  cars  in  transit  to  look  at  tickets  to  prevent 
holders  of  a  lower  class  riding  in  cars  of  a  higher  (an  offense 
punishable  by  a  heavy  fine).  Mail-cars  (yubinrsha)  bear  the 
distinguishing  mark  of  the  Imperial  Post-Office.  The  Greek 
fret,  or  key  ornament,  is  used  extensively  on  rly.  property. 
Stations  (jButeiahon)  are  not  called  in  the  cars,  but  men  pass  up 
and  down  the  platform,  before  the  car  windows,  and  shout  the 
names  repeateoly.  At  intervals  on  the  station  platforms  are 
sign-boiuras  with  the  name  of  the  station  proper,  the  one  just 
passed,  and  tihe  one  to  come ;  along  with  the  respective  distances 
m  miles  and  chains.  By  this  device  the  traveler  can  be  ready  to 
disembark  when  his  station  is  reached.  Signboards  in  En^ish 
and  Japanese  also  designate  the  chief  points  of  interest  in  the 
immediate  vicinity,  mSb.  distances  and  direction.  These  origi- 
nally were  intendeKi  for  pilgrims,  who  often  travel  in  bands 
from  place  to  place.  In  front  of  certain  big  stations  are  huge, 
skillfiilly  painted  maps  of  the  environs,  or  plans  of  the  towns, 
illustrating  pictorially  the  location  of  temples,  waterfalls, 
hotels,  and  the  like.  Other  white-painted  signs  standing  up- 
right at  intervals  on  the  station  platform  give  the  name  of  the 
place  in  Chinese  ideographs,  and  cursive  Japanese  —  the 
former  as  an  aid  to  the  intelligent  element,  the  latter  for  the 
elucidation  of  those  of  limited  understanding.  The  time-cards 
and  lists  of  fares,  in  plain,  readable  English  tvpe,  pasted  on 
bulletin-boards  and  displayed  on  the  station  wall  (usually  near 
the  ticket-window),  are  of  great  convenience,  as  are  also  the 
Bulletin  Boards  for  Travelers'  Messages  (koktichiban)^ 
now  permanent  features  of  the  large  stations.  Travelers  may 
leave  chalk-written  messages  on  these  for  belated  friends  or 
otihers,  who  after  reading  them  erase  them.  All  writing  is  rubbed 
off  by  the  station  master  (efct-in)  at  the  end  of  6  hra.  English 
and  Japanese  newspapers  are  on  Gle  in  the  waiting-rooms,  where 
automatic  indicators  and  a  clock  show  when  the  next  train 
leaves.  The  native  love  of  flowers  often  expresses  itself  at  the 
stations,  where  the  traveler  may  see  well-tended  parterres  of 
lovely  flowers;  gnarled  pine  trees  with  branches  reaching  many 
yvdsup  and  down  the  graveled  walk;  tiers  of  dwarfed  trees  in 


Ixxxii  RAILWAYS 

pots,  or  hedges  of  flowering  plum,  peach,  camellia,  and  the  like. 
The  chrysanthemum  displays  in  season  are  sometimes  impoe- 
ing.  Check-rooms  (called  cloak-rooms,  or  keitaihin  ichiji 
cunikarijo)f  where  parcels  can  be  checked  (2-5  sen  for  24  hrs.)* 
are  maintained  at  all  stations,  ^ong  with  (at  the  larger  places) 
an  Information  Bureau  where  English  is  spoken.  The  names  of 
stations  are  apt  to  be  changed  at  any  time. 

Passenger  Trains  are  always  in  charge  of  a  passenger  guard 
(shorckd),  an  English-spe^dng  Japanese  who  wears  a  red  oand 
on  his  coat-sleeve,  who  is  always  polite,  and  solicitous  of  the 
comfort  of  travelers,  and  who  does  not  expect  a  tip  every  time 
he  extends  a  courtesy  to  a  stranger.  Trains  leave  terminal 
stations  on  the  left  track  and  enter  on  the  right.  Employees, 
even  to  the  engineers  {Hkwanshi),  wear  white  gloves,  and  the 
station  master  carries  a  truncheon  as  a  warrant  oi  his  authority. 
When  a  train  is  ready  to  start,  a  station  employee  rin^  a  hand- 
bell, the  ^ard  blows  a  shriU  blast  on  a  pocket-whistle,  and 
after  receiving  an  answering  toot  from  the  engineer,  climbs 
aboard  without  further  ado. 

The  Train  Boy,  a  prominent  functionary  whose  official  title 
is  *Boy,'  and  who  has  no  affinity  with  the  'peanut  butcher*  of 
America,  is  often  of  considerable  service  to  foreigners  traveling 
in  Japan.  He  is  usually  a  very  civil,  well-appearing,  amiable 
youngster,  in  a  spruce  uniform,  and  his  duties  are  to  make  him- 
self generally  useful.  He  raises  or  lowers  the  windows  when  the 
sun  IS  too  strong  or  the  train  enters  a  tunnel;  sends  telegrams 
for  i)assengers,  brushes  their  clothes,  bujrs  their  tea  or  bentd, 
and  is  always  grateful  for  any  tip  given  him.  As  the  Japanese 
are  curiouslv  thoughtless  about  their  personal  belongings,  and 
as  the  *boy  is  frequently  called  upon  to  return  bundles  that 
have  been  left  in  the  seats  by  careless  folks,  the  traveler  should 
see  that  his  hand-baggage  is  not  taken  by  mistake.  Thieving 
from  cars  is  happily  rare. 

Tickets  {Hppu)  are  on  sale  at  all  stations  and  at  the  chief 
tourist  agencies  throughout  the  coimtry  {Thoa.  Cook,  and 
others).  Except  in  special  cases  the  1st  cl.  fare  is  2}  aen,  the 
2d,  1},  and  the  3d,  1  sen  a  mile;  with  a  transit  tax  of  5  sen 
under  50  M. ;  20  se/i  under  100  M. ;  40  sen  under  200  M. ;  and  50 
sen  above  200  for  1st  cl.,  and  3, 10,  20,  and  25  sen  respectively 
for  2d  cl.  An  extra  fare  of  yen  1.50  1st  cl.,  and  1  yen  2d  cl., 
irrespective  of  distance,  is  charged  on  ordinary  express  trains; 
and  3  yen  under  400  M.  and  5  yen  over  400  on  the  limited  ex- 
I>ress  trains  {de  luxey  between  Tdkyo  and  Shimonoseki ;  observa- 
tion  oars  —  iembosha;  special  dinners,  etc.)  with  a  1st  d. 
ticket;  and  2  and  3  yen,  2d  cl.  Consult  the  rly.  time-tables. 
The  fares  quoted  throughout  the  Guidebook  are  approximate 
onl^r,  and  are  subject  to  change.  Circular  or  coupon  tickets 
Are  issued  at  a  reduction  of  the  regular  fare.  Platform  tidcets 


RAILWATB  iJDami 

4hKt  permit  one  to  paab  tbfouf^  tJie  irtati^ 
toHDMi  aie  to  be  had  at  2^^  Mfi.  By  Tutue  of  a  apodal  azraiuee- 
ment  with  the  chief  fiteamahip  companieBy  touriata  hiddmg 
tidDBtB  over  their  line^  between  Yokoaama  ami  Na^casaki,  or 
Sfaiiiioiiosdd,  may  exchange  them  (at  par)  for  tickets  over  the 
r^.  By  this  plan  one  who  amnroadbes  Japan  £rom  China  may 
duwmbark  at  Nagasaki  and  finish  the  journey  by  rail  and  thus 
get  a  better  idea  ol  the  country  than  would  be  possible  o^er> 
wise.  Traniqmcififl  passengers  southward-bound  can  exchange 
tiieir  steamer  tickets  for  others  at  Yokohama,  proceed  overland| 
and  regain  the  ship  at  any  desired  point.  Kound-the-worla 
tieketa  are  also  issued  by  the  rly.  company  at  low  rates  (consult 


Ae  TrafiSc  Dep^tment  of  the  imperial  Rlys.,  or  Tho8>  Cook  A 

).  Favored  travc' 
the  Ji^Hmese  rlys.  are  not  valid  on  steamships  operated  in  con- 


Am).  Favored  travders  may  like  to  remember  that  passes  over 


neolioii  with  tli^;  norin  Korea  or  Manchuria  umless  so  i^ed- 
fied).  A  ticket  (bookmg)  office  is  kippu  no  uridokoro;  ticket- 
agent  (many  women  emq^oyed)  is  kippuMuri. 

SuBBPiNG  Cabs  (skindtd-'tha)  are  run  on  the  express  trains; 
fsves  range  from  3-4  yen  per  night,  for  a  sin^^  (not  larse 
enough  for  2  pers.)  1st  cl.  berth;  and  from'  yen  2.50  for  a  sin^e 
berths  to  yen^,50  for  a  double  one  of  the  2a  d. 

Bagoacdb  (nimotsu)  is  dieekedmuch  after  the  mannw  in 
vogue  in  Am^ca;  100  Hn  (133  lbs.)  are  allowed  free  on  every 
Mr  d.  ticket;  60  Xsm  (80  lbs.),  2d  d. ;  and  30  ibtn  (40  lbs.),  3d  d. 
Weigihts  are  computed  in  kin  and  lbs.,  and  distances  in  miles 
and  chd,  (See  Measures.)  Excess  wt.  {choktoa  kinryo)  is  charged 
for  at  the  rate  of  7  sen  for  1  kin  for  500  M.  or  under.  Over- 
diar^e  is  ryokin.  Check  is  chekki  (an  adaptation  from  Uie 
English  word).  Baggageman  is  tenimoteu  gakari,  Ba^gage- 
xoom,  Uniatsukaijp,  Baggage-car,  tenimotsip^ha,  A  hmited 
amount  only  of  hand-luggage  is  allowed  in  the  coach  with  each 
passenger  (2  or  3  suit-cases,  a  roll,  etc.).  The  red-capped  por- 
tons  {ekv-fu)  who  carry  hand-baggage  (2  sen  per  load,  or  as 
manv  pieces  as  the  man  can  carry  conveniently;  4  sen  in  the 
Hokkaid5)  from  the  waiting-room  to  the  train  (they  are  not 
permitted  to  enter  cars  or  solicit),  or  vice  versa,  are  employed 
oy  an  independent  company,  and  a  rly.  bulletin  posted  in  the 
station  requests  travelers  to  pay  the  r^ulation  fee  only.  When 
*»-—  carry  one's  luggage  to  a  tram-car,  a  near-by  mn,  or  a 
d,  or  perform  any  unusual  service,  a  small  additional 
is  customary  and  advisable.  Any  attempt  at  overcharge 
diould  be  frowned  upon  and  reported  to  the  station  agent. 
The  riy .  operates  a  cheap,  effident,  and  trustworthy  SxPBBsa 
— ~^^onits  trains.  A  special  quick-delivery  service  for  lug- 
;  in  vogue  in  the  chid,  cities,  and  packages,  irrespective  of 
'^T  wdj^t,  will  be  delivered  (present  check  at  baggjaig^ 
idthin  a  ndiusciSi  M.  far  5-12  sen. 


RAILWAYS 

Lost  Pbofbbtt  found  in  rly.  oaxs  or  stations  is  held  for  5 
days,  after  which  time  it  is  sent  to  the  police  office  nearest  the 
place  where  it  was  found,  and  is  held  there  imtil  claimed. 

DiNiNQ  Cars  (shakudo^ha),  with  d  la  carte  service  and  Eng- 
lish-speaking waiters,  are  run  on  the  trains  so  indicated  in  the 
rly.  train  service  book.  Many  of  the  larger  stations  possess 
(usually  upstairs  )Refreshment  Rooms  (ehinai  ryoriten),  where 
plain  but  wholesome  food  is  served  at  reasonable  prices.  The 
Station  Hotels  under  the  rly.  management  are  often  excellent. 
At  many  of  the  stations  local  specialties  (tokvbetsu)  of  the 
towns  in  the  shape  of  yaried  sweetmeats,  biscuits,  and  similar 
thines  are  sold  in  attractive  little  packages,  firkins,  or  jars, 
which  travelers  take  home  with  them.  The  unique  and  not 
unpalatable  bentd,  —  a  sort  of  national  sandwich,  —  put  up 
(usually  cold)  in  thin,  flat,  twin  boxes  (bento^ako)  of  dainty 
white  wood  (1  in.  hi^,  5-7  in.  lone),  along  with  a  paper  napkin 
(kuchifuki)  and  a  paur  of  chop-sticks  (hashi),  and  sold  at  many 
stations,  is  distinctively  Japanese  and  widely  popular.  The 
quality  of  the  contents  varies  with  the  locality;  some  places 
enjoy  a  national  rei)utation  for  the  ^ood  things  put  into  the 
hento,  and  when  possible^  travelers  wait  xmtil  they  reach  such  a 
station,  then  buy  it.  A  designating  mark  on  the  rly.  service 
book  indicates  stations  where  it  is  on  sale,  and  the  train-boys 
know  which  is  best.  Frequent  references  are  made  to  them  in 
the  Guidebook.  Besides  the  full  box  of  plain  boiled  rice,  the 
ordinary  (15  sen)  hento  contains  usually  (varying  with  the 
locality)  a  few  bits  of  vegetables,  a  slice  of  sweet  omelette 
{ta'mago-yaki)j  a  few  boiled  black  beans  (niiname)j  also  sweet; 
a  piece  of  broiled  fish  (yaki-zakana)  or  steamed  eel  (unagi  no 
kci)ayaki)]  pickled  lotus-root  (renkon);  seaweed  (kohu)\  bean- 
curd  {kamaboko);  red  ginger  (shoga);  scraps  of  boiled  meat 
(gyH'Tiiku)]  black  mushrooms  {shiitake)]  a  bit  of  pickled  octo- 
pus {ika)  or  minute  Crustacea  (tsukudani) ;  and  a  slice  of  pickled 
daikon  —  which  has  been  referred  to  as  *  an  ingenious  pickle. 
for  after  once  getting  its  flavor  well  over  your  mouth,  you  will 
eat  anything  to  get  rid  of  the  taste! '  The  fiiiBt-class,  or  j old  bentd 
(26-30  sen),  is  sometimes  sold  in  attractive  crockery  dishes, 
or  in  fancy  boxes  containing  an  assortment  of  dainties  a  bit 
more  varied  than  the  foregoing.  The  buffets  on  certain  of  the 
trains  are  celebrated  locally  for  savory  dishes  of  boiled  rice 
and  stewed  eels.  Rice-cakes  (mochi)  the  size  of  codfish  balls 
are  sold  at  many  stations;  the  kernel  of  yokanj  or  sweet  bean- 
paste,  which  usually  forms  their  center,  is  one  of  the  national 
specialties,  and  is  often  sold  in  separate  boxes.  Regular  ham 
sandwiches  (pron.  sofnTdoy'-chee)  are  becoming  popular.  A 
tiny,  sleazy  bap  of  native  tea  (cha)  submerged  in  a  'cute'  and 
sometimes  daintily  decorated  glazed  earthenware  tea-pot 
(duhbin)  filled  with  hot  water  and  suppUed  with  an  earthen- 
fFare  tea-cup  (chorwan),  is  sold  at  many  stations  for  3-5  «en 


RAILWAYS  taxv 

for  the  complete  outfit.  Also  hot,  boiled  (cow's)  milk  (gyHr^yU; 
pron.  yoon-you')  in  bottles  (6-12  sen) — which  would  be  better 
n  not  so  thoroughly  'baptized'  in  the  excellent  water  of  the 
country.  On  some  of  the  station  platforms  are  miniature  delica- 
tessen shops,  where  tinned  and  bottled  goodies  are  on  sale. 
TobaccO)  fruit  (some  of  it  excellent),  cigarettes,  newspai)ersy 
and  a  host  of  such  things  are  hawked  about  at  the  big  stations 
by  green-capped  vendors  with  raucous  voices.  The  tinned 
salfflon  from  the  Hokkaido,  the  fruit  jams,  the  (Takaradzuka) 
Tansan  mineral  water,  and  the  Goaf)  bread  are  good.  The 
butter  and  the  'bif-tekki'  served  in  some  places  are  to  be 
avoided. 

The  first  rly.  in  Japan  was  begun  (under  the  supervision  of  English  engi- 
neers) in  1872,  and  the  18  M.  between  TdkyO  and  Yokohama  were  completed 
2  yn.  later.  The  stretch  between  Kobe  and  Osaka  was  opened  to  pubho 
tnfiBcin  May,  1874 ;  that  to  Kydto  in  1877,  and  soon  thereafter  the  old  Japan- 
Me capital  was  connected  by  rail  with  the  new.  In  1899,  Japan  had  a  thou- 
aaod  miles  of  c<mipleted  rly.,  and  certain  of  the  short  country  lines  were  oper^ 
Bted  by  man-power,  the  diminutive  cars  being  pushed  along  DecauvtUe  rails 
by  squads  of  coolies.  By  1903  there  were  4237  M.  and  the  Jai>anese  had 
kanifid  not  only  how  to  construct  the  most  difi&cult  lines,  along  with  bridges 
{ttUuddkyd)  imd  rolling-stock,  but  also  how  to  operate  them  at  a  profit.  In 
1913  there  were  6000  working  miles  in  the  Empure,  4624  of  which  belonged 
to  the  State;  the  gross  income  from  them  was  100  million  yen  or  more,  and 
the  net  profit  20  millions.  Passengers  to  the  number  of  155  millions  were 
earned  safely,  and  the  freight  traffic  was  proportionately  large.  The  pro- 
jected rlys.  —  new  sections  of  which  are  opened  to  traffic  almost  every 
Qonth — penetrate  many  of  the  hitherto  remote  places,  and  total  upward  of 
10,000  additional  miles.  Construction  costs  vary  from  60,000  yen  per  mile, 
over  level  county,  to  200,000  yen  in  mountainous  re^ons.  Certain  of  the 
lines  (notably  the  Chud^  line)  rank  with  the  most  difficult  rly.  construc- 
tional feats  in  the  world.  In  1906  the  bulk  of  the  private  rlys.  (2823  M.)  were 
nationalized,  and  transferred  to  State  management,  at  a  cost  of  yen  487,- 
880,000.  The  astonishing  development  of  the  Japanese  rlys.  is  due  in  great 
part  to  the  constructive  genius  of  the  President  of  the  Rly.  Bureau,  Baron 
Shimpei  Goto,  sometime  Colonial  Governor  of  Formosa. 

American,  English,  and  German  locomotives  (kikwan'Sfia;  kama)  in  the 
order  named,  adapted  to  Japanese  requirements,  are  used;  the  former  on  the 
mountainous  sections,  the  latter  on  the  electrified  portions.  The  road-bed  is 
first-class  and  is  well  maintained;  the  busy  trains  hustle  over  the  lines  with 
the  accuracy  and  trustworthiness  of  those  of  England.  American  rails  and 
car-wheels  are  used;  the  sleepers  (ties)  are  of  chestnut  {kuri  —  7  millions 
used  yearly)  and  cypress  in  some  places  sheathed  with  iron.  The  timber 
employed  in  the  framework  of  the  rly.  carriages  is  the  Keyaki  {ZeUcowa 
KeakCi .  a  hard,  strong,  dark-brown  wood  (which  resembles  somewhat  the 
beech,  and  which  in  Japan  takes  the  place  of  oak),  with  a  fine  grain  like 
that  ci  teak,  which  takes  a  good  polish,  stands  damp  well,  but  is  apt  to  warp 
when  exposed  to  the  sun.  The  floors,  roofs,  and  sides  are  of  red  pine. 

Washouts  {hokai,  or  *  collapse  '  —  more  explicitly,  Suigai  ni  yoru  eenro 
hSkax)  are  the  bane  of  the  rlys.  in  Japan,  and  they  cost  the  administration 
millions  each  year;  they  are  handled  with  a  skill  which  excites  the  admiration 
of  foreigners.  When  a  train  slows  up  at  a  point  that  has  been  washed  out,  a 
small  army  of  willing  porters  (employed  by  the  company)  swarms  through 
the  cars,  and  relieves  the  passengers  of  all  luggage.  A  check  for  each  piece  is 
handed  the  owner,  and  careful  hands  transfer  it  to  a  waiting  train  beyond. 
Chairs  (or  boats),  palanquins,  jinrikis,  and  other  means  of  transp9rt  spring 
up  apparently  from  nowhere,  and  whosoever  does  not  care  to  walk  is  carried. 
In  remarkably  quick  time,  and  with  a  total  absence  of  friction  or  annoyance, 
one  finds  one's  self  in  a  good  seat,  in  a  train  on  the  other  side  of  the  tiouYAe, 
MMiy  to  continue  the  \oMmey. 
Tlw  rnxnewhst pujfsuiig nomeDcIature  of  the  diflferent  rly.  Unea  ia  Te\&ted 


Ixxxvi  AUTOMOBILES 

directly  to  the  cities  and  districts  through  which  they  run.  (Comp.  Toii- 
torial  Divisions,  p.  cxli).  The  Tdkaidd  Line  is  known  as  the  East  Coast 
Route;  the  Hohuroku  as  the  North-Land  Line;  the  Sanyo,  as  the  Sunny  Side 
of  the  Alt.  Line;  the  San-in,  as  the  Shady  Side  of  the  Mt.  The  Bari'Tan  Uaie, 
which  runs  throui^  the  provinces  of  Harima (Chinese:  Ban-ahu)  and  Tajinos 
(Tann8h'B)f  derives  its  name  from  the  first  ^^llable  of  each  of  these  words. 
■Ktoanaei  (or  Kanaei)  is  referred  to  at  p.  czliu;  SangH  in  Rte.35.  The  word 
J  Oban  is  formed  by  contracting  the  old  names  for  the  provinces  of  Hitadii 
and  Iwaki,  throu^  which  the  Joban  Line  passes.  The  same  process  applied 
to  Iwashiro  and|  Echigo  Provinces  produces  Qan-etsu.  Ou,  the  name  of  a 
district,  is  contracted  from  Mutsu,  Uzen,  and  Ugo  Provinces;  Shin-etsUt 
from  Shinano  and  Echigo;  Sdbu,  from  Musashi,  Shimosa,  and  Kasusa;  B68d, 
from  Awa  and  Shimosa;  ChikuhS,  from  Chiktuen,  Buzen,  and  Bungo,  ete. 
When  the  Japanese  speak  of  Busen  and  Bungo  collectively,  they  say  Hothu, 
BySmd  is  the  arbitrary  name  for  Kdzuke  and  Shimozuke,  notwithstanding 
there  are  no  provinces  of  the  name  of  Hoahu  and  Rydmd. 

Atttomobiles  (jidosha — gee-doh'-shah)  are  popular  in  Japan, 
and  garages  (same  name  in  use)  are  being  opened  in  many  of 
the  chief  cities.  Cars  are  on  call  at  most  of  the  big  hotels,  which 
usually  maintain  private  garages.  In  provincial  places  motor* 
cars  are  replacing  the  lumbering  stage-coach,  and  attention  is 
being  given  to  the  improvement  of  the  highways.  Many  de- 
Ughtfm  trips  are  possible  from  T5kyo,  Yokohama,  Kyoto, 
and  Kobe  —  where  the  usual  charge  for  a  touring-car  ana 
chauffeur  is  5  yen  per  hr.,  with  a  minimum  charge  of  15  yen. 
For  a  party  of  3  or  more  an  auto  is  cheaper  (and  speedier)  for 
sight-seeing  than  a  relative  number  of  jinrikis.  The  excellent 
Japan  Chronicle  often  pubUshes  instructive  descriptions  of 
motor-trips  through  the  mterior  of  the  coimtry,  and  illustrates 
them  byvaluable  (because  clear  and  down-to-date)  sketch- 
maps.  While  it  is  more  within  the  province  of  a  special  auto- 
mobile pathfinder  to  describe  in  detail  the  country  roads,  the 
writer  has  nevertheless  carried  out  minute  personal  observa- 
tions for  those  travelers  specially  interested,  and  these  refer- 
ences will  be  found  in  their  proper  places  throughout  the  Guide- 
book. Some  of  the  larger  cities  possess  automobile  touring 
clubs,  references  to  which  will  be  found  in  the  daily  news- 
papers, and  from  whose  members  the  traveler  can  always  get 
valuable  information.  The  Nippon  Automobile  Association^ 
with  headquarters  at  T5ky5  (many  foreign  members),  pub- 
lishes (monthly,  in  English)  a  magazine  called  the  Jidosha,  of 
considerable  interest  to  owners  of  motor-cars,  motor-boats,  and 
flying-machines.  The  views  from  some  of  the  easily  accessible 
(by  motor)  mountain  passes  of  Japan  are  of  a  beauty  never  to 
be  forgotten. 

The  motorist  should  not  rely  too  implicitly  on  the  informa- 
tion he  may  get  from  farmers  about  roads;  the  average  peasant 
sees  no  disadvantages  in  a  mt.  path  that  would  make  a  goat 
dizzy;  and  a  road  Uttered  with  stones  looks  as  good  to  him  as 
any  other.  The  omnipresent  basha  will  traverse  an  elevated 
hi^way  that  the  most  reckless  motorist  would  balk  at,  but 
Ife^me  the  rickety  bridges  have  not  fallen  (perhaps  a  sheer 


TAXICABS  AND  TRAM-GARS  Ixxxvii 

thooBuid  feet)  beneath  him  on  that  particular  trip,  the  hathor 
dnver  will  pronounce  the  road  in  excellent  state.  Never  ask  a 
wimtiTman  if  such  and  such  a  place  is  such  and  such  a  distance 
off,  fw  he  will  usually  confirm  your  query,  whether  the  goal  is  2 
v22ch5  distant.  Many  of  the  city  streets  have  no  sidewalks, 
and  as  the  native  chilcuren  Uve  practically  out  of  doors,  it  has 
beo(»ne  necessary  for  the  authorities  to  dEraft  drastic  measures 
Sovoming  the  speed  of  automobiles.  The  stranger  who  intends 
toapi^y  for  a  license  (10  yen  a  year)  should  acquaint  himself 
with  these.  The  sectional  maps  (on  sale  at  the  bookstores), 
iBBued  by  the  Geographical  Department  of  the  Gov't,  are  use- 
M.  Motorists  may  like  to  remember  that  many  of  the  country 
loads  and  bridges  are  only  6-15  ft.  wide,  and  that  the  latter  are 
not  always  strong  enoum  to  bear  up  imder  a  heavy  touring- 
car.  It  is  well  to  remember  also  that  during  and  just  after  the 
iommer  rains  the  idand  roads  may  be  impassable  for  weeks  at 
a  time*  Oct.-Dec.  is  Uie  best  season  for  motor-trips.  The  wages 
of  a  Japanese  chauffeur  who  speaks  a  little  En^ish  vary  from 
90  to  50  yen  a  month.  The  Gov't  tax  on  cars  is  60-80  yen  a 
year.  Gasolene  (same  word  used)  is  obtainable  in  most  towns 
at  50  sen  a  gallon,  in  5-gal.  tins  (which  can  be  resold  at  10  sen, 
silence  the  reluctance  of  the  chauffeur  to  discard  Uiem).  The 
ba^t  rate  from  San  Francisco  to  Japan  on  automobiles 
(erMed)  is  112  a  ton  of  40  cubic  ft.  An  ordinary  touring-car 
measures  about  8  tons  when  packed.  The  freight  rato  on  the 
Ja{Muiese  rlys.  is  20  sen  per  nule,  with  a  minimum  charge  of  4 
ym.  The  present  customs  duty  (apt  to  change)  on  cars  enter- 
ing Japan  is  50  per  cent  ad  valorem  (general  tariff)  unless 
accompanied  by  a  certificate  of  origin,  in  which  case  it  is 
admitted  under   the   conventional  tariff  at  35%  (favored 
nation  clause).   Parts  pay  25%  duty.   Cars  and  parts  retail 
for  about  2}  times  (in  yen)  the  selling  price  at  the  point  of 
nuinufacture.   Cars  to  be  used  by  tourists  for  motoring  in 
Japan  pass  in  free  of  duty  under  a  guaranty  (represented  by  a 
deposit  of  the  amount  of  the  duty)  that  they  will  be  shipped 
out  of  the  country  before  12  months.  Persons  coming  to  Japan 
to  live  can  bring  in  a  car  free  of  duty. 

Taxicabs  (the  word  'Taxi'  is  in  general  use)  are  fast  coming 
into  vogue,  and  are  in  use  in  certain  of  the  large  cities. 

Electric  Tram-Cars  {densha — den,  electricity;  sha,  carriage) 
are  rapidly  replacing  the  slower  horse-railways  (tetsvdd^^xism): 
they  not  only  furnish  a  cheap  and  good  service  in  the  cities  ana 
towns,  but  are  fast  taking  the  place  of  the  jinriki  and  hasha  in 
country  districts.  They  are  very  useful  for  taking  travelers  to 
oat-of-the-way  places  not  yet  reached  by  the  steam  rlys.  — 
to  which  they  act  as  valuable  feeders.  Fares  generally  are 
dieaper  than  in  the  West.  The  1st  and  2d  el.  cars  diSec  \m\i 
fitOe  in  furnishing,  and  the  latter  are  about  one  third  cheapet. 


xc  HORSES 

sible,  kink  in  the  native  character  nearly  always  prompts  the 
overpaid  kwrumaya  to  demand  more  i*mo  go  sen,'  or  *mo  jfi- 
sen,'  anoUier  5  sen,  or  10  sen,  as  the  case  may  be)  unless  he 
knows  that  the  extra  amount  is  given  for  good  service.  A  man 
who  is  heavily  overpaid  is  also  apt  to  make  it  uncomfortable 
for  the  next  stranger.  The  prices  current  in  different  places 
are  quoted  in  the  Guidebook  under  the  proper  heading.  The 
average  country  charge  is  15-20  sen  a  mile. 

If  the  traveler  who  has  previously  engaged  a  jinriki  for  a 
journey  wishes  the  runner  to  be  at  lus  door,  say,  at  5  a.m.,  he 
should  order  him  to  come  at  4,  and  be  prepared  to  send  some 
one  for  him  at  4.30,  as  unpunctuality  is  a  characteristic.  The 
runner's  advice  as  to  the  correct  amount  to  pay  for  wayside 
refreshments,  or  any  service  rendered,  is  worthless,  as  the  in- 
stinct to  overpay  ms  nationals  at  the  expense  of  the  alien  is 
ingrained.  A  class  which  travelers  sometimes  come  in  contact 
with  is  the  moro^hafu  (*  shady  men ')  who  are  in  league  with 
brothels  and  bad  characters,  and  who  take  strangers  to  lonely 
places  for  purposes  of  robbery.  A  sakate  (sake  money)  or  tip  is 
usually  given  a  good  man  for  exceptional  service.  The  life  of  a 
shafu  IS  hard,  and  his  earnings  (in  Tokyo)  from  ¥60  to  ¥100 
a  month.  Night-men  in  Tokyo  are  csuled  (contemptuously) 
yonashi  ('men  with  no  night 0)  £tnd  are  looked  down  upon. 
College  men  who  sometimes  adopt  the  calling  for  the  temporary 
gain,  are  known  as  buga  kusei.  The  best  runners  die  young 
C^eart  failure),  and  when  the  pitiable  drawback  of  age  overtakes 
the  others,  they  are  often  forced  to  seek  different  employment. 

Horses  (uma;  pron.  m'ma)  are  plentiful,  but  the  native  ani- 
maX  (of  Mongolian  breed  and  ongin)  is  such  an  ill-favored, 
badly  trained,  unruly  beast,  that  he  is  to  be  avoided.  Tlie. 
average  horse  is  small  of  stature,  with  a  thick  head,  mane,  and 
belly;  trots  loosely  and  awkwardly;  gets  into  a  sweat  eamly; 
bites  viciously  if  one  approaches  too  near  (whence  the  muzzles 
in  common  use),  and  screams  like  a  fiend  when  displeased. 
They  no  doubt  are  ill-tempered  because  badly  treated;  the 
custom  is  to  make  them  stand  in  stalls  with  their  heads  toward 
the  entrance,  and  to  tie  them  so  tightly  to  the  right  and  left 
posts  that  they  can  with  difficulty  Ue  down.  In  certain  dis- 
toicts  (N.  Japan)  mares  only  are  used  for  beasts  of  burden, 
while  in  others  (T6ky5,  Yokohama,  etc.)  one  rarely  sees  any- 
thing but  stallions.  Asses  and  mules  are  unknown.  The  don- 
key, which  would  prove  the  ideal  'short  and  simple  animal  of 
the  poor,'  is  nowhere  found.  Oxen  anciently  took  the  place  of 
horses  as  draught-animals,  and  (with  bulls)  are  still  used  in 
many  places.  Li  country  districts  horses  not  unfrequently  go 
'  barefoot '  or  are  shod  with  straw  sandals.  In  the  larger  cities, 
and  at  certain  country  resorts  freouented  by  foreigners,  im- 
ported  horses  with  coinf  ortable  saddles  can  be  hired  at  reason- 
dble  prices.  It  ia  considered  axiomatic  that  horses  are  unsaid 


THE  JINRIEISHA  Ixzm 

9Bmal  dajrs  in  succession;  5  M.  an  hr.  on  a  fair  road  is  good 
speed,  Jiniikis  are  often  employed  for  long  oros&-eoimtry 
iapBf  and  as  a  rule  the  traveler  will  find  them  more  satisfactory 
than  the  contemptuous  and  contumacious  native  horse.  Good 
rikiflha-men  make  satisfactory  guides;  they  are  usually  scarce 
during  planting  and  harvestmg  seasons,  when  field-work 
demands  their  time,  and  prices  are  then  considerably  higher 
than  when  steady  employment  is  lacking.  On  long  runs  over 
moantainous  country  the  traveler  must  either  take  the  hills 
afoot  or  engage  a  pushman  {ato  o  shi),  or  an  extra  puller  to  run 
tandem  {aSkitsuna,  or  tsunahike)  with  the  regular  man.  On 
meveD  roads  the  former  is  often  necessary  to  prevent  the 
nmewhat  capricious  vehicle  from  tipping  over  sidewise.  The 
tendency  to  tip  backward  when  the  passenger  is  inside  and 
the  puller  releases  the  thills,  is  very  marked.  Dogs  are  employed 
totj^p  piill  jinrikis  in  certain  parts  of  Japan. 

Jinnki-stajids  are  always  found  near  rly.  stations  (in  which 
case  they  are  called  teishaba)  and  at  various  points  in  towns 
(whea  uey  are  called  keiryujo).  Rates  demanded  at  the  for- 
mer place  are  usually  about  25%  higher  than  at  stands  near 
by.  Hfmdy  to  almost  every  stand  is  a  push-cart  or  wheeled 
track  (niguruma)  on  which  the  men  haul  heavy  trunks  and  the 
like;  two  or  more  fairly  large  trunks,  along  with  a  steamer  trunk 
and  several  pieces  of  hand-luggage,  can  often  be  piled  upon  one 
d  these  carts,  and  taken  from  the  hotel  to  a  rly.  station  or 
steamer  landing  for  25-35  sen  (for  }  M.  or  more)  or  40-50  sen 
(1 M.  or  thereabout). 

Fares  have  an  upward  tendency;  foreigners  (all  of  whom  are 
classed  as  kanemochif  or '  rich  men  )  are  always  expected  to  pay 
more  than  natives.  In  the  absence  of  a  fixed  schedule  it  is 
advisable  to  ask  the  man  beforehand  what  his  charge  will  be. 
If  it  appears  too  high,  he  should  be  told  what  will  be  given  him. 
The  former  15-20  sen  an  hr.  rate  has  risen  in  many  places  to 
50-60  sen.  Waits  are  usually  charged  for  at  one  half  the  hr. 
rate.  If  one's  time  is  limited,  and  one  employs  a  jinriki  by  the 
hr.,  it  is  better  to  pay  any  reasonable  sum,  as  otherwise  the 
man  will  contrive  to  kill  time,  and  defeat  one's  purpose.  Lazy 
men  are  strict  observers  of  the  exasperating  custom  of  never 
passing  ahead  of  an  older  man,  or  a  tired  runner  overtaken  on 
the  road.  In  such  cases  the  traveler  may  wish  to  say:  SaH  no 
fha}u  ni  kotowaUe  hyaku  hashire  ('Apologize  to  the  man  in 
front  and  pass  him').  Absurd  prices  are  exacted  of  strangers 
in  seaport  towns.  It  is  not  unusual  for  certain  jinriki-men 
in  Yokohama  and  Kobe  to  demand  ¥1  from  the  landing  or 
station  to  the  hotel  when  the  correct  fare  may  be  10-15  sen. 
In  cases  of  dispute  the  traveler  should  always,  when  possible, 
ooosult  the  hotel  manager,  as  clerks  are  apt  to  side  with  their 
€oimtzymen.  If  one  does  not  know  the  eicact  fare,  ask  the  man.- 
tp  pay.  A  canous,  snd  to  the  foreigner  an  incompiehen- 


xdi  POST-OFFICES 

vastly  more  satisfactory  and  comfortable  contrivance  —  one 
which)  in  fact,  suggests  considerable  luxury — is  the  'chair/  an 
open,  cane  sedan-chair  borne  aloft  on  two  poles,  extensively 
used  in  Hongkong,  and  popular  in  the  mt.  districts  of  Japan. 
Prices  will  be  found  in  different  places  throughout  the  Guide- 
book. Kagos  can  be  carried  up  mt.  trails  where  'cludrs' 
would  prove  awkward,  but  ladies  particularly  wiU  prefer  the 
latter  when  practicable. 

F.  Post-  apid  Telegraph-Offices.  Telephones.  Time. 

Post-Off  ices  (:^iZ&i7iA;i/oA;i/)  are  always  distinguishable  by  a 
small  sign  showing  a  symbol  like  an  exaggerated  capit£d  T. 
composed  of  three  red  lines  With  a  white  bar  across  the  top,  ana 
painted  on  a  white  ^ound.  The  same  token  appears  on  the  rly, 
mail-cars.  English  is  customarily  spoken  at  the  main  offices  in 
the  large  cities  and  ports.  The  post-  and  telegraph-offices  are 
usually  to  be  found  in  the  same  building  and  they  are  open  from 
6^7  A.M.  to  10  P.M.  Travelers  often  find  it  more  convenient  to 
dispatch  their  mail  from  the  hotel,  where  stamps  are  always  on 
sale  and  special  care  is  accorded  letters.  The  local  (English) 
newspapers  publish  the  dates  of  the  arrival  and  departure  of 
mail-ships,  and  the  hours  when  the  mails  for  abroad  close  at 
the  post-office.  Tourists  may  like  to  remember  that  letters  for 
Atlantic  Coast  points  of  the  U.S.A.  often  reach  their  destina- 
tion a  day  or  two  earlier  if  marked  *vid.  Siberia' ;  also  that 
ships  crossing  the  "N.  Pacific  make  the  transit  in  several  days' 
less  time  than  those  which  touch  at  Honolulu.  The  Japanese 
postal  service  is  prompt  and  efficient.  Addresses  should  be 
written  simply  and  legibly,  as  the  majoritv  of  the  postmen 
(yvMn-kyakufu)  are  unable  to  read  plain  English,  much  less 
abbreviations.  Despite  this  handicap  they  are  remarkably 
exact  in  getting  mail  matter  to  its  rightful  owner :  tracing  him 
with  the  dogged  persistence  of  the  British  postal  authorities. 
The  excellent  governmental  system  of  registering  the  names  of 
foreign  visitors  to  the  Empire,  and  of  keeping  a  friendly  and 
paternal  eye  upon  them  while  they  are  'within  the  gates,'  is  of 
considerable  help  to  the  service.  Mails  are  delivered  at  frequent 
intervals  during  the  day.  Houses  in  Japan  are  not  always 
numbered,  and  in  default  of  exact  information  the  postman 
sometimes  relies  upon  his  knowledge  of  the  houses  and  inhabi- 
tants of  his  district  to  deliver  mail-matter.  This  will  usually  be 
delivered  more  expeditiously  if  the  ward  (ku)  of  the  city  ill 
which  the  recipient  resides  is  appended  to  the  address.  In  the 
case  of  letters  mailed  to  Japanese,  one  should,  if  convenient, 
subjoin  the  address  in  the  vernacular.  This  is,  in  fact,  some- 
times desirable  on  letters  to  foreigners;  it  always  insures  prompt 
delivery. 

Mast  travelers  prefer  to  have  their  mail  come  in  the  care  of 


lOSr-^fflCIOI  aoiii 

tiieir  hotel  or  bialoBn;  If  It  is 'sent  to  H3«Dflnl  Delivwy' 
(FiMfs  realoiM^)  to  be  bdd  imtfl  fsdM  foEi  the  porto^^ 
raeeiviiig  offieea  dnmld  be  notified,  aadie^pkited  to  hold  it. 
(Hfaerwi8e»  after  advertiamglt  for  10  daje  (on  a  printed  lAp 
exposed  in  the  kbt^  of  the  P.O.]K  H  is  letaEned  or  sent  to  the 
Pmrtment  of  CommmdcatiiHiB  un  T5I^),  where  it  is  opened 
If  uleoontentsgiTesnyduetotheseDderyitisFetiinuxL  Ifnot^ 
it  IB  held  for  6  mos.,  then  destcoTed.  u  the  contents  are  of 
valne,  they  are  sc^  and  if  not  maimed  within  2  3^8.  are  ap- 
propriated by  the  State  Treasory.  One  should  remembo;  dso 
that  under  ordinary  eireinnstanoes  Poata-nskmiB  mail  is  held 
at  the  receiving  office  for  30  days  only,  following  the  day  of  its 
anival.  llie  nostinastor  dfOmibyiofcw  ckS)  will.notify  the  ad< 
drooBoo  of  sucn  mail  bang  hdd  for  him  for  a  8-sgn  fee.  If  the 
route  to  be  travensed  by  lietterB  is  not  written  on  them  (cus- 
tomary in  the  Far  East),  the  postmaster  will  use  his  judgment 
inrcmting  them.  Mailstoeo'vili^l^beria'  (quiokest  route  to 
Europe)  must  be  so  maikB(Cjdse  the  Russian  GoVt  will  refuse 
to  transport  them.  The  list  of  articles  not  accepted  for  trans- 
missicm  diff ere  but  littie  from  that  of  other  countries.  Aiq^one 
who  ships  opium,  or  utensils  forsmoking  it^  through  the  mail. 
is  apt' to  be  fined;  the^  articles  will  be  confiscated.  A  special 
permit  must  be  obtained  from  the  (xov't  to  send  tobapco 
tfarougji  the  P.O. 

Registered  Letters  (kakUamf'yiibin)  are  charged  for  at  7  Mn 
per  cover.  A  certification  notice  of.  the  hour  of  posting  (valu- 
able in  cases  of  patent-rights,  mining-claims,  eto.)  will  be  issued 
(or  15  sen. 

A  SFSCiAii  Dblivbbt  service  (sokuiatsubin)  is  in  vogue  at 
some  offices.  The  letter,  accomiMinied  by  a  fee  of  10-15  sen 
must  be  delivered  at  the  office,  and  a  request  made  that  it 
be  given  special  atttotion. 

EhntEBT  Boxes  (yiibinrbdko),  of  mietal,  of  excellent  design, 
stand  at  many  points  in  the  different  cities,  and  mail  (yubin)  is 
oollected  from  them  many  times  a  day.  To  post  a  letter  is: 
YiUnn  ni  dasu. 

Postal  Money-Orders  (yHbinrgawaaej  or  kawaae — small  ones 
aie  ko-ffowaee)  are  issued  on  the  n^owing  countries  at  the  rates 
and  up  to  the  amounts  named:  To  the  United  States,  Hawaii, 
the  Pnffippine  Is^  Guam,  the  Panama  Canal  Zone,  and 
C!anada,  $100  (U.S.  gd.d)  at  10  sen  for  each  $10  or  fraction 
thereof.  —  Great  Britain,  the  British  Colonies,  Possessions  and 
Protectcxrates,  Malta,  Gibraltar,  Constantinople,  British 
Honduras,  B.  W.  Indies,  B.  Guiana,  Danish  W.  Indies,  Dutch 

IW.  indies,  Guiana,  Panama.  Costa  Rica,  Tunis,  Fiji  Is.', 
(ttroogh  the  intermediarv  of  the  British  P.O.  at  London), 
f^  «t  10  sen.  for  £1  or  fraction.  —  Germany,  (jerman  '^qnv 
b^i^GarohDela^  Mai82iAZ/Is.,  iSimoa,  KiauchoWyT^maoivL) 


xciv  POSTAGE-STAMPS 

and  Weihsien,  800  marks,  10  sen  per  40  M.  or  fraction.  — 
France,  Belgium,  Italy,  Greece^  Switzerland,  Luxemburg,  Por- 
tugal, The  Argentine  Republic,  Chile,  Peru,  Brazil,  Egypt, 
Montenegro,  Irench  Indo-China,  Servia.  1000  francs,  10  aen 
per  50  fr.  or  fraction.  —  Bulgaria,  500  trancs,  same  rate.  — 
Mexico,  200  pesos,  10  sen  for  20  pesos  or  fraction.  —  Siam. 
400  yen,  10  sen  for  20  yen  or  fraction.  —  Norway,  Sweden,  ana 
Denmark^  620  Kr.  at  10  sen  for  36  Kr.  —  Austria,  and  Bosnia- 
Herzegovma,  1000  Kr.,  10  sen  for  50  Kr.  or  fraction.  —  Hun- 
gary, 1000  Kor.,  10  sen  for  50  Kor.  or  fraction. — Russia  (except 
Finland),  £30  (through  the  British  P.O.)  at  10  sen  for  £1  ot 
fraction.  —  The  Commonwealth  of  Australia  and  New  Zealand, 
Br.  India,  Br.  North  Borneo,  Burma,  Ceylon,  The  Straits  Set- 
tlements, and  The  Federated  Malay  States,  Hongkong,  Macao, 
Hoi-how.  Ningpo,  and  Wei-Hai-Wei  (through  the  British  P.O. 
at  Hongkong),  $400  (silver)  at  10  sen  for  $10  or  fraction.  — 
The  Netherlands  and  the  Dutch  E.  Indies,  480  florins,  at  10 
sen  for  every  25  fl.  or  fraction.  —  The  maximum  amount 
of  an  Inland  Postal  Money-Order  is  ¥100,  for  which  a  com- 
mission of  42  sen  is  charged;  the  average  rate  is  6  sen  for  ¥10, 
10  for  ¥20,  and  so  on.  —  There  is  a  Telegraphic  Money-Ord«r 
System  between  Japan  and  Korea,  Formosa,  and  SaghaUen. 

Post-cards  (yUbin-kagaki)  are  of  5  denominations:  ordinary 
witMn  the  Empire  IJ  sen;  with  prepaid  reply  3  sen;  letter- 
card,  3  sen;  foreign  (countries  in  the  Postal  Union),  4  sen;  with 
prepaid  reply,  8  sen.  There  is  a  local  restriction  against  writing 
on  the  face  of  cards  other  than  pictorial,  albeit  cards  posted  at 
Japanese  ofl&ces  in  China  may  be  so  employed.  Privately 
pnnted  post-cards  larger  than  the  official  cards  will  not  ot 
accepted  for  mailing;  nor  will  those  of  a  pornographic  nature. 

Postage-Stamps  {yHbin-giUe)  are  of  17  denominations,  aa 
follows:  }  sen  (5,  or  go  rin),  1  sen,  1}.  2,  3,  4,  5,  6,  8, 10, 15,  20, 
25,  50  sen,  and  ¥1,  ¥5,  and  ¥10.  Books  containing  18  3-«en 
stamps  and  30  H-^sen  stamps  are  on  sale  at  ¥1  each:  and 
others  with  18  10-«en,  36  4rsen,  and  12  2-sen  stamps  at  ¥3.50 
each.  Travelers  can  earn  the  gratitude  of  stay-at-home  col- 
lectors by  putting  a  number  of  stamps  of  different  denomin- 
ations on  their  letters.  —  Commemorative  Stamps  are  issued 
on  special  occasions;  the  most  important  recent  ones  were 
struck  in  commemoration  of  the  25th  anniversary  of  the  wed- 
ding of  the  late  Emperor;  one  on  the  accession  of  the  present 
Emperor;  on  the  Japan-China  War;  and  on  the  occasion  of  the 
amalgamation  of  the  Korean  post  and  telegraph  services  with 
those  of  Japan.  New-Year  stamps  are  occasionally  issued  by 
institutions  of  great  pubUc  benefit  —  notably  the  Kumamoto 
Leper  Hospital,  whose  stamps  are  adaptations  of  those  issued 
bjr  tibe  Anti-Tuberculosis  Society  of  the  U.S.A.  International 
JvpJjr  ooupone  (equivaleitt  in  value  to  postase-fitampe  and  to  be 


0 


7 
^ 

± 

it 


POSTAL  RATES  xcv 

used  for  prepayment  of  an  answer  to  a  letter)  are  now  em- 

tedin  the  U.S.A.,  Great  Britain,  Germany,  France,  Austria- 
i;ary,  Ita^7,  Belgium,  The  Netherlands,  Sweden,  Norway, 
Switierlaiid,  Denmark,  Mexico,  Spain,  Chile,  Canada,  India, 
Ceylon,  The  Straits  Settlements,  Hongkong,  Siam,  etc.  They 
cost  12  sen  in  Japan  and  are  exchangeable  for  postage-stamps 
worth  10  sen. 

The  fint  regular  postal  system  was  established  in  Japan  during  the 
Tokvgawa  Shdounatet  when  two-eworded  men  wearing  a  special  uniform  car- 
ried official  correq;>ondenGe  between  Kydto  and  Yedo.  In  1663  the  business 
men  of  tiiose  cities  and  o^f  Osaka  oi^sanized  a  service  of  runners  who  made  the 
trip  between  Yedo  and  Ky5to,  viA  Osaka,  about  3  times  a  month.  In  1871 
the  inesent  Gov't  foim^ly  (^)ened  a  letter-post  service  between  TGkyO, 
Yokohama,  EyGto,  and  Osaka,  and  the  system  was  modeled  upon  those  in 
Togne  at  the  tmie  in  America  and  Europe.   The  first  set  of  postage-stamps 


VH  issued  on  the  day  the  plan  became  operative.    Early  in  1872  the  service 

)be,  Nagasaki,  NiinitiEt,  and  Hakodate.    The  first  postal 

Norention  between  Japan  and  the  U.S.A.  became  effective  Jan.  1,  1875. 


VM  extended  to  Kot 


haan  was  f<»mally  admitted  into  the  General  Postal  Union  June  20, 1877. 
Tne  first  stamp  issue  of  March,  1871,  was  foUowed  by  others  in  Feb.,  July, 
and  Sept.,  1872;  April  and  June,  1873;  Jan.  and  Feb.,  1874;  Jan.,  Feb., 
Uttflh,  and  Aug.,  1875;  March,  May,  and  June,  1876;  June,  Aug.,  and  Nov., 
1877;  June,  1879;  Jan.,  1883;  Feb.,  1888;  May.  1892;  March,  1894;  Aug., 
I8IW;  Jan.,  April,  and  Oct.,  1899;  Jan.,  May,  and  Oct.,  1900;  March,  1901; 
^,  1905;  April,  1906.  The  stamps  of  the  Taiafu)  era  were  issued  in  1913. 
Cirtain  of  tJie  dd  stamps  are  vtdued  as  high  as  ¥1500,  but  philatelists  will 
^  to  remember  that  did  stamps  are  counterfeited  in  Japan  and  that  great 
ttnmust  be  ezerdsed  in  buying  them. 

Postal  Rates  are  higher  than  those  of  the  U.S.  or  Great 
Bdtain.  Ordinary  sealed  letters  (tegami)  within  Uie  Empire.  3 
m  up  to  4  momme  (15  grms.)  and  3  sen  for  each  additional  4 
nmme  or  fraction.   Foreign  letters  (to  countries  within  the 
Postal  Union)  are  sent  at  the  uniform  rate  of  10  sen  for  each 
i  I  5.3  momme  (20  grms.) ;  for  each  additional  20  grms.  or  fraction, 
6«w.  The  traveler  may  like  to  remember  that  one  of  the  new 
(JwMuiese)  50-^en  silver  coins  weighs  a  trifle  under  15  grms., 
and  a  50-  and  20-«6n  piece,  along  with  a  5-sen  nickle,  about  20 
gnns.  It  is  advisable  to  instruct  correspondents  abroad  to  put 
the  i^ht  amoimt  of  postage  on  letters  for  Japan  (5  c.  gold  in 
the  U.S.A.),  as  in  all  cases  of  insufficiency  of  postage  the 
addressee  is  required  to  pay  double  the  deficiency.  If  he  re- 
fuses, the  article  is  returned  to  the  sender,  who  is  asked  to  pay. 
Postal  Savings  Banks  (yuhin-chokin)  are  operated  at  cer- 
tain of  the  post-offices.   The  smallest  deposit  received  is  10 
•Bfi  6t  can  De  made  in  postage-stamps) ;  the  largest,  1000  yen. 
Interest  at  the  rate  of  4i%  per  annum  is  paid  on  all  deposits. 

Postal  Parcels  {tstUsumi)  are  subject  to  the  rules  of  the  Par- 
cel Post  Convention  of  the  Postal  Union,  or  according  to  the 
fpedsl  agreements  which  Japan  has  made  with  countries  not 
indoded  in  that  association.  Usually  the  destination  (as 
American  Parcel,'  'English  Parcel,'  or  the  like)  must  be 
niaiked  thereon,  and  a  Customs  Declaration  (obtainable  free 
It  the  P.Q,)  prepared  and  sent  with  it  Values,  wdgbta,  a»A 


TElEGRAPH-OFFICEa 


-II 

ing  to'THffBBI^W 

I  (which  moet  be9 


I 

I 


dimensioDB  (apt  to  obange)  vary  according  t 

countries  and  agreements-  Union  Parcels  (which  n 

marked)  destined  for  countries  included  in  the  Union,  muBtwib 
measure  more  than  60  cerUimilres  (23.62  in.)  in  any  djrectioo, 
nor  contain  more  than  25  cubic  didmhlrea  of  bulk.  Parwdl 
which  do  not  exceed  20  cm.  (8  in.)  in  breadth  or  depth  m»j. 
measure  up  to  1  mblre  (39.37  in.)  in  length;  Umit  of  wei^t,S'; 
kUofframmes  (11  llw.).  Coata  vary  with  the  route  by  wMi 
they  travel.  Forinstance:  To  Germany  or  Franco,  byaeii(8u«(| 
Canal,  time  about  .50  days),  90  asn,  up  to  1  kilo,  and  ¥1.3(L. 
lip  to  5  kilos.  If 'via  Siberia'  (about  15  days),  ¥2.30  to¥3,M« 
for  1  or  5  kilos.  Parcels  for  the  United  States  and  its  Ins  '  " 
FoBBessions,  including  the  Panama  Canal  Zone,  Great  Brit 
Hongkong,  The  Straite  Settlements,  and  Australia,  may  n 
ure  3  ft.  e  in.  in  length  (or  6  ft.  in  length  and  girth  a  " ' 
and  weigh  11  lbs.  In  the  former  case  they  most  not 
with  wax  or  lead,  but  must  permit  of  easy  customs  examiai>| 
tion.  Rates  of  postage:  21  sen.  for  120  niomme  (1  lb.)  orfractior 
thereof.  Parcels  sent  throiigii  (or  to)  Russia  must  be  pacica 
in  wooden  or  metal  boxes  or  in  linen  bags,  and  not  in  papecM 
cardboard.  Addresses  must  be  written  in  ink.  Parcds  kf^ 
Canada  may  measure  up  to  2  ft.  in  length,  and  1  "  '  " 
or  in  depth,  and  weigh  7  ll»8.  Postage  V3  sen  tor  each  1  It 
Mexico  90  sen  up  to  1  kilo,  and  ¥2.30  up  to  5  kilos. 

The  Weights  and  Diuensionb  of  articles  to  be  sent  bjl 
(foreign)  Letter  Post  are;  Dimensions:  Length,  39  cm.  (tSiiU. 
or  1  shakv,  3  mn) ;  breadth,  26  cm.  (10 in.,  or SJ  sun) :  width. II 
cm.  (6  in.,  or  5  sun).  Rolls,  must  not  exceed  75  cm.  (29}  in.)  ift 
length,  and  10  cm.  (4  in.)  in  diameter,  nor  must  they  weigh  oTS^ 
2  toloa.  (4.4  lbs).  There  is  no  limit  to  the  weight  or  dimenmor' 
of  letters.    Samples  .of   merchandise   may  weigh  up  U  3! 

rs.  (100  mowme) ;  postage  up  to  100  grma.  4  sfin,  and  2  W 
each  additional  50  grms.  Books,  Manuscripts,  Fhoto'l 
graphs,  Commercial  Papers,  and  the  like  are  accepted  ai  "'' 
ci.  matter  at  2  sen  up  to  112  gnus.  (30  momme),  and  2  sen 
every  additional  30  momme  up  to  100  momme.  Packages  m 
not  be  over  30  cm.  (12  in.)  long,  20  cm.  (Sin.)  broad,orlOciB.| 
(4  in.)  deep.  Rolls  must  not  be  over  12  in.  (30  cm.)  long  oi  " '" 
(15  cm.)  in  diam.  —  The  limits  of  weights  and  dimensioi 
local  postal  parcels  are :  Dimensions :  up  to  60  cm.  (2  thaJtn, « '| 
feet)  m  length,  breadth,  or  depth.  Parcels  not  exceedingly.! 
cm.  (5  sun,  or  6  in.)  in  breadth  and  depth  may  measm-e  up  » 
90  cm.  (3  shaku,  or  35  in.)  in  length.  Weights;  up  to  6000  pmi 
(1600  momme,  or  13i  lbs.),  Between  Japan,  Korea,  and  Cbiu 
(including  Manchuria),  1500  momme  (12i  lbs.). 

Telegraph-Offices  (densAin-fcj/ofcu)  arc  usually  operated  I^ 
telegraph  is  a  Gov't  nionopo\y\  caniomXV}  ■*!.&.  &e^«S;<fi«^' 
fin  iriich'caBe  the  office  ib  caWed  n'Ohin-deiwiVii.TiA'aQV.ui,*** 
Ch^Kre  to  be  found  all  over  Jasaa.  Tteeet^VK»^^*m*«w'Si 


CABLEGRAMS— TELEPHONES  lovii 

food  and  cheap.  Engliah  is  not  always  spoken  in  tlie  bianoh 
ofi^,  nor  are  messages  (denahm)  in  the  Engliah  language 
Moepted  by  them.  In  such  cases  they  must  be  taken  to  the 
oeatnd  or  main  office,  where  expert  operators  transmit  them 
with  accuracy  and  speed.  Travelers  usually  find  it  more  con- 
▼eoient  to  deliver  messages  to  the  hotel  manager,  who  will 
smd  Uiem  to  the  proper  receiving  office.  The  Japanese  kana 
characters  (seep,  cxxvi)  are  customarily  employed  to^send  tele- 
nams  in  the  Empire,  and  where  a  message  is  destined  for  a 
Japanese,  one  can  save  something  by  having  it  translated  into 
the  vernacular.  A  combination  (S  Japanese  and  foreign  words 
ii  not  permitted.  Messages  are  often  sent  in  the  Rdmaju  or 
mmanized  Japanese,  in  which  case  no  word  must  exceed  15 
lettoB.  The  address  and  sienatiu^  are  always  charged  for. 
Urgent  telegrams  take  preceaence  over  ordinary  ones  and  are 
ftiufed  for  at  3  times  the  regular  rate.  Chabges  fob  Tblbgbamb 
withm  tJie  limits  of  any  city  are:  In  kana,  10  sen  for  each  15 
diaracters,  and  3  sen  for  every  added  5  characters;  in  RSnum 
(or  Ebigli^),  15  sen  for  every  5  words,  and  3  sen  for  each  adm- 
Jonal  word.  —  Anywhere  within  the  Empire  proper,  20  sen 
wr  a  kana  message  of  15  characters,  and  an  aaded  5  sen  for 
ereiy  additional  5  characters  or  less;  romanized  (or  English) 
tde^'ams,  25  sen  for  Uie  first  5  words,  and  5  sen  extra  for 
each  added  word.  For  a  5-word  message  to  Korea,  Formosa, 
Saghalien,  or  the  Bonin  Islands,  40  sen;  for  a  15-character 
hma  message,  30  sen.  —  To  send  a  telegram  is:  Denshin  wo 
kakeru. 

Cablegrams  to  Europe  and  America  are  costly,  and  a  cable- 
/  eode  should  be  used  where  possible.  Words  in  the  code  language 
/  must  not  contain  more  than  10  letters,  and  h3rphenated  words 
are  ooimted  as  two.  Such  words  as  New  York,  San  Francisco, 
ete.,  go  as  a  single  word.  Codified  messages  received  in  Japan 
will  not  be  delivered  imless  the  recipient  registers  (or  has  regis- 
tered) a  code-word  address.  The  usual  cost  of  this  is  ¥12  per 
annum,  but  in  special  cases  an  address  may  be  registered  tem- 
porarily for  ¥1.20  a  month.  Cablegrams!  can  be  repeated  to 
any  part  of  the  Empire  at  the  regular  inland  rate.  Undelivered 
messages  are  advertised  in  the  (foreign)  daily  newspapers  for  a 
brief  period.  There  are  several  submarine  cables  (kaitei  densen, 
or* ocean-bed  wires'),  and  as  rates  are  at  present  being  read- 
jputed  they  are  not  quoted  here.  Consult  the  hotel  manager. 
The  Wireless  Telegraph  Service  is  being  extended. 

Telmhones  (denwo/'ki)  are  in  use  in  most  of  the  Japanese 
dties,  out  as  the  operators  do  not  always  speak  English,  the 
aervice  is  not  used  by  travelers  as  much  as  would  otherwise  be 
tteoaae.  Booths  are  to  be  found  in  all  the  hotels.  The  telep\ioii& 
offiriah  dassify  the  conversation  area  as  'ordinary.'  *lon^  dia- 
\mifi*mA'Bpeda2  Jong  distance/  The  service  is  being  atesudav 


xcviii      TIME -^  WEIGHTS  ANO  MEASURES 


imprbved  and  eBlarged.  •  The  usual  cliai]ge  for  a  5-min.  co 
sation  (automatic  booths)  within  the  limits  of  any  cit} 
tm.  Long-distance  rates  are  graded  according  to  the  dist 
Tanging  from  20  «en  for  25  M.  (Yokohama-TokyS,  for  exai 
to  ¥1  for  250  M.  and  ¥2  for  600  M.  The  night  rate  (8  p 
7  A.M.)  is  about  25%  less.  A  long-distance  telephone  is  < 
chokyori ;  telephone  ofl&ce,  denwa  kokankyoku  (or  dentoi 
cendral  office,  chUo  denworkokankyoku  (or  denwa  kokwan-. 

Time.  Japan  employs  one  uniform  standard  time  com] 
for  135  degrees  E.  longitude,  or  9  hrs.  fast  of  mean  tii 
Greenwich.  When,  therefore,  it  is  mean  noon  at  Greenwic 
9.19  P.M.  at  Yokohama  (and  7.04  a.m.  at  New  York), 
actual  difference  in  time  between  Yokohama  and  San  Frai 
is  6  hrs.,  31  min.,  and  44  sec,  but  ships  steaming  W.  drop 
2f)  to  30  min.  each  day  (depending  upon  the  speed)  and 
an  entire  day  at  the  180th  meridian  —  picking  it  up  on  t] 
turti  voyage. 

G.  Weights  and  Measures 

Distances  by  rly.  are  calculated  in  English  (or  Amei 
miles  and  chains;  on  highways  and  streets  by  ri  (the  Jap 
mile)  and  did.  Many  English  terms  are  coming  into  g( 
uSe,  and  inch,  yard,  dozen,  pound,  foot,  etc.,  are  undei 
and  used  by  many.  Travelers  will  find  the  following  ap] 
mate  tables  of  equivalents  useful. 


Japanese 

English 

Metric  Sy 

Iri         »  36  cA5 

or  2.4403  M.     (say 

2JM.) 

3.927  kilon 

\ch6      «  60  A;«n 

358   ft.     (  " 

A  M.) 

109.     mkrt 

10  ehaku  "    1  j6 

10  ft.  (  •• 

1.88  yd.     (  " 

3.01  yds.) 

3.03 

6  thaku  "    1  ken 

Oft.) 

1.81 

10  aun      »    1  sAo^ 

••      11.93  in.     (  " 

1ft.) 
U  ft.) 

3.03  dSciml 

10  bu        "■  .  1  9un 

1.17  in,     (  " 

3.03  centim 

l(w«        «^ 

1.43  line    (  " 

l§in.) 

3.03  tnillim 

One  geographical  mile  equals  1.886  ri  (which  in  some  parts  of  the  ', 
haa  50 m6).  Fifteen  chd  make  about  1  Eng.  M. ;  and  29  ri  equal  1  degrc 
ri  iho\Ud  not  be  confounded  with  its  prototype,  the  Chinese  li,  which 
is  Teckoned  at  2.02839  Eng.  ft.  (2.6  2i  to  1  M.).  —  The  hiro  (fatl 
about  6  ft.  equals  the  ken.  —  To  reduce  miles  to  ri,  divide  the  nui 
miles  by  2.44.  —  To  convert  ri  into  miles  multiply  the  number  of  ri  I 
—  For  practical  purposes  1  kihrnitre  equals  |  (.625)  of  1  Eng.  M.  (8  ki 
6  M.) ;  1  M.  a:  1.6  kilom.  To  convert  kilom.  into  miles,  divide  by  8  an< 
ply  by  5.  To  convert  miles  into  kilom.,  multiply  by  8  and  divide  b^  5. 
vert  meters  into  inches,  multiply  by  40;  and  to  convert  inches  into 
divide  by  40. 

Approximate  equivalents  of  Japanese  chd  and  ri  in  English  (and 
miles,  and  kilomitres. 


Chd 

MiUs 

Kilomkires 

Ri 

Miles 

KOom 

1 

.07 

.112 

1 

2.44 

3.9 

2 

.14 

.224 

2 

4.88 

7.8 

3 

:20 

.320 

3 

7.32 

11.7 

4 

.27 

.432 

4 

9.76 

16.C 

5 

.34 

.644 

5 

12.20 

\^X 

& 

.41 

.656 

6 

14.64 

23.4 

7    ■ 

.47 

.752 

7 

17.08 

27.5 

WEIGHTS  AND  MEASURES 


CM 

MOm        KUomkrm 

Bi 

MiiM 

Kihmkn9 

'8 

J&l                .864 

8 

19.63 

81408 

9 

M                .076    • 

0 

31.96 

35.136 

10 

.68               1.088 

10 

34.40 

39.040 

11 

.75               1.200 

11 

36.84 

43.944 

18 

.81               1.296 

12 

39.38 

46.848 

13 

.88               1.408 

13 

31.73 

50.753 

14 

.95               1.520 

14 

34.16 

54.656| 

15 

1.02               1.632 

15 

36.60 

68.560 

16 

1.08               1.728 

16 

39.04 

62.464 

17 

1.16               1.840 

17 

41.49 

66.384 

18 

1.22               1.952 

18 

43.93 

70.288 

19 

1.29              2.064 

19 

46.37 

74.192 

80 

1.36              2.176 

20 

48.81 

78U)96 

81 

1.43              2.273    . 

21 

51J25 

82.000 

88 

1.49              2.384 

22 

53.69  . 

85.904 

88 

1.56              2.496 

23 

56.13 

89.808 

■     84 

1.68               2.608 

24 

58.57 

93.713 

85 

1.60               2.704 

25 

61.01 

97.616 

86 

1.76              2.816 

26 

63.45 

101.530 

87 

1.88               2.938 

27 

65.88 

105.43. 

38 

1.90              3.040 

28 

68.33 

109.33 

88 

1.97               8.152 

29 

70.77 

113.33 

30 

2.08               8.248 

30 

73.20 

117.13 

31 

2.10              8.360 

31 

75.65 

131.04 

88 

2.17              3.472 

32 

78.09 

124.94 

88 

2.24              8.584 

33 

80.53 

138.84 

34 

8.30              3.680 

.     34 

82.97 

133.75 

35 

2.37               8.793 

35 

85.41 

136.65 

36 

2.44              8.904 

36 

87.86 

140.56 

laador  Agnui 

•iiMeMiires. 

Japantae                            Ebq 

Kah 

Melrie  Syttem 

InMi. 

-                   5.9552  sq.  mi 

108  - 

15  kilotnkreat 

423  8Q.  mkrea 

Idkd 

-  10   tan      2.4507  aore8 

99  arest  1735  CMtiarea 

im 

»  300 fou6o 

(or  10  80)  0.2450      " 

9       "     9173 

u 

Ikubo 

»  1 6u  (or  36 

' 

8q.  9haku)  3.9538  sq.  ya 

ids 

3.3057  sq.  mkrea 

Town  lots,  Igarka,  building-fates,  etc.,  are  measured  by  tmbo^  1210  of 
ihUi  are  about  1  acre,  —  which  equals  4  ton  and  10  bu.  The  tsubo  is  the  sise 
rf  two  Japanese  mats  (fatami  or  jd)  placed  side  by  side;  these  measure  (each) 
14  tJhaiktt  (or  feet),  and  serve  as  a  unit  for  superficial  measurements  — 
Mrtleularhr  in  a  house.  Rooms  are  made  to  accommodate  so  many  mats. 
■a  a  house  has  an  area  of  50  tsubot  it  is  understood  that  it  is  a  hundred-mat 
I — the  ro<»ns  being  called  6-^  8-,  10-mat  rooms  and  upward.  Architects 
'f  ficure  on  the  cost  of  ordmary  Japanese  dwellings  at  ao  much  per 
Mining  concessions  are  granted  in  terms  of  teu6o.    . 


Japan9$9 


Metsnre  of  Capacity. 
BnglUh 


1  koku  -  10  Id       39.703  gal.,  or  4.963  bushels.  1 

110       -  10  <M       3.970     «•    ••   I       •*    I  1 

10  #0      -  1  sAd         1.58    qt.  (about  106  cu.  in.)  1 

1^      -  10  Bhaku  0.3176  pt.  (1.271  gills)  0 


Metric  System 

hectolitre,  80  litree 
decalitre,  80     " 
litre,  80  cewtUitrea 
litre,  80  dSoalitree 


btkm  (-■  lots  «  100  ehd  -  1,000  ffO  »  10.000  ehaku)  was  formerly 
"^  ineomputinf  the  income  (in  rice)  of  the  feudal lordB,  etc.  TYifikt 
fSim  $amwm  wasocanputed  in  bags  (hjfd)  —  at  present  ^Mttd  to 
Udifiumfnnte  gige)  dumxmL  A  bundle  of  flrawood  is  oaHod  loa. 


e  PHOTOGRAPHY 

Clotii  Measor*. 

The  lUJit  ahaku  (or  kujirajaku)  is  di£Fa«ntiated  from  the  '  distance  foo 
(kanvcJeu)  by  being  longer.  (Comp.  the  two  tables.)  In  cheap  materif 
the  ton  is  apt  to  be  short;  in  others  long. 

Japanese  English  Metric  System 

10  b«  a  0.1  shaku  «  1  sun  1.4913  in.  4  centimkres 

10  «tm  =•  1     "       (or  foot)         14.9130  in.     *  38 

1  ton»  or  piece,  varies  between  26  and  30  shaku  long. 

1  hiki  »  2  ton,  ot  expensive  stuflF.  measures  about  52  sJuiku, 

Weights. 

The  unit  of  weight  is  called  motnme  {inonme),  from  the  mon-weight, 
designated  because  this  smallest  iron  coin  (mon,  the  Chinese  tmxce)  used 
be  taken  as  tJie  basis  of  weight.  One  momme  (mohm'-may)  equals  3.7565 
orammes  ;  hence  1  grm.  =  0.266204  motnme.   Albeit  the  Japanese  lb.  ^ 
of  160  momme  (about  1^  lbs.  avoirdupois)  is  used  for  certain  commoditi( 
others  are  sold  bjr  the  Chinese  kin  of  120  momme,  which  is  about  1  I 
avoirdupois.    A  still  lighter  lb.,  of  100  momme,  is  used  for  tobacco  at  reta 
As  silk  maniifactured  goods  (stockings,  underwear,  etc.)  are  sold  by  momi 
weight,  travelers  may  wish  to  fix  these  differences  in  the  mind  and  refer 
them  when  making  purchases.  Ounce  is  onsu, 

Japanese  English  Metric  System 

1  ku>an  (pron.  kahm'-may)  «■  1000  8i  lbs.  avoirdupois 

momme  (or  10.04  lbs.  troy)    3.750  kilogramm 

1  kin  (160  momme ,  see  above)  1.323  lbs.  avoirdupois 

(or  1.60  lbs.  troy)  6.900  hectogramm 

1  momm^  »  10  fun  2.11  drams,  or  2.41  dwts.  3.750  grammes 

The  Chinese  peciU  —  100  catties  or  100  kin  —  60.104  kilogrammes, 
employed  in  certain  of  the  Japanese  imports  and  exports.  10  kin  »  6.01( 
kilogrammes, 

H.  Photography.  Hunting  and  Fishing. 

Photographv  (shashinjvisu).  The  customs  regulations  pe 
mit  the  traveler  to  bring  one  camera  (kikai)  in  free  of  dut; 
Imported  plates  (dry  plates  are  kampan)  films  (the  wore 
'Kodak  '  and  'film'  are  understood  almost  everjrwhere  in  th 
trade),  and  other  photographic  supplies  (tripod  is  mitsyrush 
devdbper,  gemo;  ray-filter,  toniwifcw;  plate-holder,  sashiwaki 
axe  on  sale  in  all  the  big  port  cities  and  in  many  of  the  interic 
places.  While  photograpners  (the  man  —  shdshimhi  —  and  h 
shop  are  usually  called  s/ios/itn^a)  are  accorded  liberal  facilitic 
in  Japan,  they  should  refrain  from  taking  pictures  (shashiri)  i 
or  near  strategic  zones  (references  to  which  will  be  found  i 
their  proper  places)^  as  they  are  generally  of  a  military  or  navf 
character  with  fortifications  and  topographical  features  whic 
the  authorities  wish  to  preserve  secret.  Such  places  are  ind 
cated  by  a  dotted  circle  on  the  maps  of  the  several  territory 
divisions  of  the  Empire,  and  are  marked  on  the  spot  by  sigi 
boards  (in  English)  warning  travelers  off.  Permission  to  phoU 
graph  (jshashin  wo  torn)  within  a  6}  M.  radius  of  any  fortif 
cation  must  be  secured  from  the  local  police.  Temples  shoul 
never  be  photographed  without  the  permission  of  the  priest  i 
charge,  as  certain  of  the  establishments  derive  an  income  ftoi 
the  ^e  of  picture  post-cards,  and  the  photographic  privikf 


PHOTOGRAPHY  d 

must  be  paid  for.  The  national  politeness  should  not  lead  stran- 
gen  to  conclude  that  the  laws  are  flexible,  and  that  fortresses, 
arsenals,  castles,  temples,  and  the  like  can  be  photographed 
with  impunity.  When  in  doubt  ask  some  one  in  authority. 

The  Japanese  excel  in  a  noteworthy  way  in  the  art  of  pho- 
tographing, developing,  and  coloring,  and  few  if  any  surpass 
them.  Certain  of  the  best  photographing  establishments  at 
Yokohama  have  stock  pictures  of  places  and  scenes  in  almost 
every  part  of  the  Empire,  and  the  amateur  unacquainted  with 
atmospheric  conditions  will  often  find  among  them  better 
lectures  than  he  could  perhaps  take  himself.  Dampness  is  Hie 
emphatic  quality  of  the  air,  and  the  simlight  is  deceptive.  It  is 
neither  so  brilliant  nor  so  strong  as  that  of  British  India,  but 
owmg  to  the  prevailing  green  f o^SN^  it  often  casts  a  greenish 
light,  and  causes  under-exposure.  These  often  occur  also  in  the 
nuTow  streets  where  the  nouses  cast  sharp  shadows.  For  in- 
stantaneous summer  exposures  (instantaneous  photography  is 
hayatori  shashin),  one  should  face  the  sun,  else  the  shadows 
may  be  heavy.   A  No.  16  diaphragm  with  an  exposure  of  jfs 
of  a  second  gives  the  best  result.  For  sea  views  use  a  No.  32 
|md  give  a  }  second  exposure.  Longer  exposiues  are  the  rule 
in  winter,  when  from  9  a.m.  to  4  p.m.  is  the  best  time  to  photo- 
graph. Snap-shots  taken  at  any  season  before  9  and  after  4  are 
apt  to  be  unsatisfactory,  even  though  the  sun  be  shining 
brightly.  Rest  the  camera  on  something  stable,  and  allow  from 
1  to  10  seconds  when  photographing  under  trees.  It  is  well  to 
femember  that  paper  umbrellas  cast  wide  shadows,  and  make 
it  difficult  to  take  faces  under  them.  Also  that  in  the  damp  sea- 
son films  should  not  remain  in  the  camera  for  any  len^h  of 
time:  unless  kept  in  a  tin  case  they  are  apt  to  spoil.  Owmg  to 
I>eculiar  climatological  conditions  films  on  a  roll  will  some- 
times show  under-exposures,  while  others  are  over-exposed. 
The  low  ceilings  in  mausolea,  and  the  masses  of  heavy  shadows 
which  cluster  beneath  temple  roofs,  often  produce  poor  results. 
The  sulphur-fumes  which  emanate  from  volcanoes  are  very  apt 
to  attack  the  ^ver  in  films  brought  into  prdximity  to  them, 
and  to  ruin  isochromatic  plates  even  when  these  are  protected 
bv  dark  slides.  Exposed  mms  will  be  found  to  be  covered  with 
blotches,  and  parts  of  the  negatives  will  be  positive.  Ordinary 
plates  are  the  oest  for  such  work,  as  the  sulphurous  vapors  do 
not  always  affect  them.  Considerable  care  is  requirea  to  de- 
velop films  and  plates  properly  in  Japan,  and  they  should  be 
given  only  to  the  best  workmen.  K.  Tamamuraj  of  Yokohama, 
who  is  cdebrated  for  fine  photography,  makes  a  specialty  of 
developing  work  for  travelers,  and  of  making  beautifully  col- 
ored luit^n-sUdes  (gentd-4ta)  from  their  pictures.  The  cost  of 
these  (English  and  American  sizes)  is  ¥50-70  iper  100.  T\v<& 
HsB  for  developing  a  roll  of  Ghns  or  a  doz.  plates  ia  ^  sen ;  ioi 
WjMng  en  Birax paper,  4x5,  13  sen  each;  on  No. 2,  Yl  sen; 


cii  HUNTING  AND  FISHING 

PX),P,  paper  10  sen  and  8  sen  respectively.  An  extra  charge  o 
10  sen  each  is  made  for  coloring  pictures.  At  the  present  tim< 
4x5  No.  3a  fikns  cost  ¥1.80;  No.  2,  ¥1.70.  The  names  of  th 
different  imported  papers  are  known  to^  and  are  used  by 
local  photographers.  As  a  rule  it  is  unwise  to  take  imdevelopec 
films  or  plates  out  of  the  countrv,  for  on  reaching  home  thei 
may  be  found  imperfect.  Nor  Guiould  valuable  exposures  b! 
turned  over  to  country  workmen. 

Hunting  and  Fishing.  The  island  fauna  is  meager,  but  thi 
bear  (kuma),  deer  (shika),  wolf  (yama-inuj  or  mt.  dog),  wik 
boar  {lif  or  shishiy  very  numerous),  badger  (tanuki)^  fox  (kit 
sune)f  hare  {usagi;  usagi  no  ko  is  &  coney),  and  the  red 
choked,  anthropoid  ape  (saru)  all  furnish  sport  for  the  huntei 
(kariudOf  ryoshi).  The  splendid  (brown)  grizzly  bear  {Oki 
kuma)  of  Yezo,  which  the  Ainu  kill  with  poisoned  arrows,  ii 
the  largest  and  fiercest  among  the  wild  animals,  and  stran^n 
unacquainted  with  its  power  are  advised  to  approach  it  witl 
caution.  Almost  equallv  large  ice-bears  (wrsus  maritimus)  an 
to  be  foimd  occasionally  in  the  Kuriles,  whither  they  an 
brought  by  the  Arctic  current.  The  milder,  common  Japanese 
bear  (black  with  a  white  spot  at  the  throat)  attains  a  length  oj 
6  ft.  or  more,  and  is  often  met  with  in  the  mts.  of  N.  Japan 
[Foreigners  often  go  from  Japan  to  Korea  on  hunting  ex^xKli- 
tions  there  to  seek  the  fine  Korean  bear,  and  the  splendic 
striped  tigers  which  infest  the  country.)  The  stag,  a  gracelu 
creature,  smaller  and  slenderer  than  its  European  brother 
carries  eight-branched  antlers  and  is  frequently  found  in  man^ 
parts  of  Japan .  The  Asiatic  antelope  (kamoshika)  is  the  chamou 
of  Japan,  where  it  frequents  the  high  mts.  of  the  interior.  It  if 
as  shy  as  the  Alpine  ibex,  and  usually  as  difficult  to  approach 
The  natives  make  pets  of  deer,  and  in  such  places  as  Nara 
hundreds  roam  through  the  streets  and  the  temple  groimdf 
unmolested;  their  dappled  summer  coat  changes  to  a  heavj 
brown  one  in  winter.  In  Oct.  and  Feb.  hunters  from  the 
Imperial  Household  repair  to  one  or  more  of  the  Imperia 
Preserves  (Ikao,  Nikko,  etc.)  and  slay  a  number  of  deer  foi 
royal  consumption. 

Wild  boars  are  the  only  representatives  of  the  cloven-footed 
animals,  and  the  species  resembles  closely  its  European  con- 
gener. In  some  parts  of  the  country  they  devastate  the  grow- 
ing crops,  and  are  exterminated  by  the  natives.  The  pelts  oi 
the  rare  black  foxes  of  Sa^alien  sometimes  bring  ¥1000 
Hares  are_raised  for  their  skins,  which  when  dyed  and  elabo 
rated  (in  Osaka)  closely  resemble  otter  skins  and  are  often  sole 
to  the  unsuspecting  as  such.  The  unfortunate  monkeys,  whicl 
dwell  amid  the  rocks  near  waterfalls,  are  eaten  by  the  natives 
Hie  animal  (of ten  pictured  in  Japanese  art)  has  long,  brown- 
iab-fr&y  bmr,  a  red  face,  and  a  striated  posterior  wmch  looki 
Off  if  the  creAture  had  been  sittmg  Vn  led  v^VxiV,  <s«xtain  of  th< 


I 


HUNTING  AND  PISHING  oiii 

species  (Jnuua  tpecioius)  ate  tailless.  They  are  shyy'soious, 
unfriendly,  and  they  know  how  to  bite.  They  so  often  antici- 
pate the  peasants  in  harvesting  their  pulse  and  miUet  that  the 
met  skin  them  withglee  and  eat  them  with  gusto  when  they 
can  capture  them.  Tins  is  not  easy,  as  the  sly  qiiadrumana 
know  about  the  Imperial  Preserves  and  rarely  allow  them- 
selves to  be  caught  beyond  their  limits.  The  pedestrian  in 
ninJ  Jsman  with  sufficient  patience  to  look  for  these  monkeys 
and  study  their  almost  human  habits  will  find  them  of  imfail- 
ing  interest.  Usually  they  sit  so  quietly  that  one  must  watch 
(with  a  good  glass)  fc^"  some  time  before  spying  them.  The  best 
season  is  in  uie  winter,  when  the  trees  are  stripped  of  their 
foliage.  On  a  pleasant  sunny  day  bands  of  a  hunored  or  more 
come  out  to  hunt  for  food;  among  them  many  mothers  with 
little  ones  pick-a-back.  The  more  selfish  and  sagacious  among 
the  old  males  oftentimes  send  the  youngsters  out  to  scout,  and 
when  these  have  fiUed  their  cheeK-pouches  with  chestnuts  or 
other  goodies,  their  elders  descend  from  their  safe  perches,  grab 
the  unsuspecting  victims  by  the  nape  of  the  neck,  force  their 
heads  against  the  ground,  and  (in  a  very  human  fashion) 
panch  their  cheeks  until  they  disgorge  their  store! 

Pheasants  of  the  copper  and  green  varieties  abound,  and  the 
itttive  name,  ^hjs  an  onomatopoetic  imitation  of  the  sound 
made  by  them,  mid  geese,  teal,  snipe,  woodcock,  wild  pigeons 
and  other  game  haunt  the  lakes  ana  woods,  and  ptsurmigan 
(called  raididj  or  'thunder-bird'  because  it  is  supposed  to  be' 
lesponsible  for  the  thunderstorms  in  the  high  mts.  where  it  is 
found)  are  more  or  less  common  in  Central  Japan.  A  favorite 
native  pastime  (for  which  a  special  license  is  required)  is  the 
snaring  of  thrushes  {tsugumi)  which  pass  over  Nikko  in  great 
numbers  during  their  migratory  flights  —  usually  in  Oct.  It  is 
said  that  their  voices  are  hoarse  and  strident  in  winter,  but 
tuneful  in  spring  and  summer.   With  characteristic  Japanese 
ingenuity,  live  decoys  are  subjected  to  a  long,  laborious,  and 
systematic  training  wherein  are  employed  infinite  patience,  a 
HMuated  temperature,  darkened  rooms,  and  lights.  The  re- 
sult is  that  the  voices  of  the  decoys  (which  when  well  trained 
sell  for  as  much  as  ¥25)  develop  their  richest  notes  at  the  season 
when  the  wild  birds  pass  over  the  hills.  On  the  tops  of  these 
hills  the  decoys  are  placed  in  cages  near  an  elaborate  system  of 
very  fine  but  strong  silken  nets  attached  to  upright  stakes. 
When  the  migrating  birds  hear  the  summer  notes  of  the  de- 
coys, they  drop  to  the  earth  in  vast  numbers  and  many  are 
entangled  in  the  nets  and  captured.   They  are  called  golden 
plover  and  are  eaten.   Robins  (komadori)  are  also  caught  in 
great  numbers.  The  open  season  for  game  begins  Oct.  15  and 
doses  March  31,  but  pheasants  cannot  be  shot  before  Nov.  I. 
A  hunter's  license  (easily  obtainable  through  the  hoteV  maa- 
it)  co0is  about  ¥7.   Guns  and  ammunition  are  not  «^- 


dv  GOLDFISH 

wa^s  to  be  had  in  rural  Japan.  —  Children  in  Japan  hunt  the 
countlesB  cicada  (aemi),  whose  stridulous  shrilling  vibrates 
through  the  woods  during  the  long  Japanese  summer.  There 
are  many  species;  the  noisiest  among  the  insects  are  the  males, 
whose  capture  is  effected  by  means  of  long  bamboo  poles 
smeared  with  birdlime.  Once  caught,  they  are  sold  to  dealers 
in  entomological  curiosities  and  imprisoned  in  tiny  bamboo 
cages,  for  the  edification  of  the  musically  inclined.  The  old 
Greek  distich,  — 

*Happy  the  cicadas'  lives. 
For  they  all  have  voiceless  wives,*  — 

would  no  doubt  be  more  applicable  did  not  the  males  cause 
their  own  undoing  by  too  much  chirping! 

Fishing  is  one  of  the  ^atest  among  the  native  industries. 
The  seas  which  gird  the  Empire  abound  in  fine  piscine  types, 
and  the  yearly  catch  (which  includes  1500  whales  —  knijira) 
amounts  to  ¥150,000,000  and  ^ves  emplo3anent  to  3,000,000 
persons  and  420,000  boats.  Fifty  or  more  varieties  of  fish, 
ranging  from  pilchard  (itoashi)  to  squid  (iA;a),  possess  a  com- 
mercial value,  and  may  usually  be  seen  in  the  great  Japanese 
fish-markets  {saJcanorichi)  of  Tokyo.  The  rivers  are  well 
stocked  with  many  varieties  of  fresh-water  fishes;  those  of 
Yezo  contain  fine  salmon  in  practically  inexhaustible  quanti- 
ties. The  best-known  varieties  of  fish  are  mentioned  in 
numerous  places  throughout  the  Guidebook.  Fishing-trips 
can  always  be  planned  with  the  assistance  of  the  hotel  man- 
ager. One  of  the  curious  marine  types  which  the  traveler  will 
sometimes  see  in  a  fishmonger's  shop  is  the  gorgeously  resplen- 
dent chsetodotitoid  fish  {HolacanthiLS  imperator)  called  the 
'Emperor  of  Japan.'  A  remarkable  product  of  the  warm 
waters  along  the  coast  is  the  hideous  (man-eating,  it  is  said) 
giant  Japanese  spider-crab  (Macrochira  kcBmferi)^  the  larg^t 
down  crustacean;  dried  specimens  of  these  are  preserved  in 
several  of  the  local  musemns.  Cuttle-fish  are  caught  in 
countless  thousands  along  the  coast,  and  besides  forming  a 
staple  article  of  diet  among  certain  of  the  people,  they  are 
dried  and  exported  in  huge  quantities  to  Cnina.  The  local 
taste  favors  the  tiny  ones,  12-15  in.  long,  with  a  reddish  tinge 
to  the  white  (cooked)  flesh.  Ambulatmg  vendors  of  boiled 
ika  are  familiar  figures  in  the  native  towns.  The  Ohi  fisheries 
are  famous  throughout  the  country,  and  here  a  single  fisher- 
man has  been  known  to  catch  upward  of  2000  cuttle-fish  in 
a  single  night.  In  addition  to  the  sepia,  the  island  coast 
supphes  also  the  formidable  octopus  (tako),  which  sometimes 
w^gh  125  lbs.  Cormorant  fishing  is  described  under  Gifu. 

Goldfish  of  two  species  are[bred  by  the  Japanese,  the  common 
golden  carp  (higoi),  and  the  essentially  different  kingyo 
(Caras8ti8  auratua)  which  is  principally  distinguished  by  a 


TOBACCO  eY 

peculiar  trif urcation  of  the  long  anal  fins  —  two  equally  long 
fmt  more  horisontally  situated  side  fins  being  f oimd  besides 
the  perpendicular  steering-fin.  Both  species  are  numerous, 
but  the  latter  is  developed  in  more  bizarre  ways.  Th^y  are 
members  oi  the  carp  family  (of  the  Cyprinidai)  and  were 
originally  taken  from  China  to  Europe  in  the  17th  oent.  The 
rich  red,  golden,  silver,  black,  and  other  oc^ors  are  produced 
artificially  and  iHX>pagated  by  selection.  In  a  state  of  nature 
the  fish  is  of  a  diul.  olivaceous  green,  to  which  it  tends  to 
revert  if  left  to  itself  on  escaping  from  cultivation.  Of  the 
original  52  variants  a  few  only  have  been  selected  by  the  Jap- 
anese as  playthings,  and  these  are  reared  in  fish-pools  and  tubs. 
'  The  effects  of  domestication  in  changing  the  natural  form  of 
the  fish  are  great;  specimens  are  often  seen  without  any  dorsal 
fin,  and  the  tail  and  other  fins  tufted  and  lobed  to  such  a 
degree  as  to  resemble  artificial  appendages  or  wings  rather 
than  natural  organs.  The  eyeq  are  developed  till  the  globe 
projects  beyond  the  socket  uke  goggles,  presenting  an  extra- 
ordinary appearance..  The  usual  cdor  is  of  a  ruddy  gdden 
hue,  but  both  sexes  exhibit  a  silvery  or  blackish  tint  at  certain 
stages  of  their  growth;  and  one  variety,  called  the  silver-fish, 
retains  this  shade  all  its  life.'  Wherever  the  Japanese  fore- 
gather on  festival  days  there  will  be  found  the  goldfish  vendor, 
with  m&a}[  buckets  and  shallow  pails  filled  with  tiny,  fan- 
tailed  specimens  which  can  be  bought  for  a  few  sen  and  which 
the  nature-loving  pater-  or  rnater-'famUw  carry  home  in  the 
netted  transparent  glass  globes  made  for  the  purpose.  The 
goldfish  sellers  are  common  features  of  the  Japanese  city 
streets,  and  the  fish  are  everywhere  in  garden  pools  and  temple 
ponds.  In  the  latter  places  fat  golden  carp,  measuring  12-15 
in.  long,  scramble  near  the  bank  for  the  food  which  young  and 
old  bring  to  them. 

L  Tobacco.  Tea.  Rice.  Sake.  Chop-Sticks. 

'""  Tobacco  was  brought  to  Nagasaki  by  Portuguese  traders 
early  in  the  17th  cent.,  and  as  the  Japanese  had  no  name  for  it 
they  called  it  tabako.  Its  stimulating  and  aromatic  Qualities 
delighted  the  natives,  and  the  habit  of  smoking  or  'onnking 
tobacco  *  was  soon  practiced  eagerly  by  both  sexes.  In  1612 
the  Shogun  leyasu  framed  ineffectual  laws  against  planting  or 
smoking  the  weed;  but  this  lost  none  of  its  popularity,  and 
non-smokers,  even  among  women,  are  now  rare.  From  the 
time  tobacco  was  first  planted  in  1605  it  spread  unequally 
throughout  the  islands;  that  grown  in  Satsuma  is  prized  by 
the  natives,  but  foreigners  usually  consider  it  too  sweet.  In 
the  manufacture  and  sale  of  tobacco,  which  is  a  Gov't  moiv- 
opdy,  upward  of  128,000  persona  are  employed  (2i^,WiKi 
wgmen);  aanual  sales  amount  to  76^000,000  yen.  In  ad^Woxi 


TEA 


TonJ^Tdee^^S^ 


to  the  home  products,  numerous  foreign  b 
cigarettes,  and  Bmoking-tobacco  are  imported,  deep^e^i^ 
fact  that  the  practically  prohibitive  duty  of  355%  grMtly 
increafles  their  cost.  Chewing-tobacco  is  not  made.  Retm 
prices  are  fixed  by  the  Monopoly  Bureau,  and  are  the  eame 
throughout  the  country. 


- .jtTIm 

ft  Bhrub  3-fi  ft,  high,  with  thin  leaves  4-8  in.  lonfc 
1  to  2}  in.  brood  and  tapering  toward  both  ends;  tad  mth 
small,  white,  single,  slightly  fragrant  flowers  aboiit  1}  b. 
broaa,  is  believed  to  have  existed  in  Japan  from  time  imme- 
morial, but  the  peculiar  properties  of  ita  leaves  (trbiDh 
contain  water,  thdne,  extract,  gum,  aahes,  potash,  and  gel- 
atinoua  silica)  were  not  well  known  until  about  the  12th  cenl,, 
when  the  abbot  Mj/oe,  of  the  Togano  Monastery  (Zen  sectot 


Buddhiste),  near  Kydto,  learned  (in  China,  where  the  IM 
was  cultivated  tor  its  refreshing  infusion  as  far  back 
I.  350)  of  the  9  virtues  posseBsed  by  the  leaf.   Securint 


a  book  of  directions  for  the  culture  of  the  plant,  and  a  bag  a 
choice  seed,  he  planted  these  near  KyOl<i,  whence  some  were 
later  transplanted  at  Uji  —  which  ever  since  has  been  Om 
(^ef  center  of  tea-growing  in  Japan,  and  where,  because  of 
Intimate  knowledge  regarding  its  cultivation,  and  the  extreiM 
care  bestowed  upon  the  preparation  of  the  leaf,  some  o!  the 
finest  Japanese  teas  are  produced.  Other  authorities  pW 
the  introduction  of  tea  in  the  9th  cent.j  and  point  to  the  fa*t 
that  in  A.D.  815  the  Emperor  Saga,  on  visiting  a  monastery  in 
Omi,  was  regaled  with  tea,  and  that  the  drink  having  met  with 
his  approval,  he  issued  a  mandate  for  the  establishment  o( 
tea-gardens  in  various  places  in  the  Five  Homo  Provincw. 
Also  that  he  failed  to  popularize  it,  and  that  for  3  cent,  itt 
name  was  forgotten.  It  was  not  until  a  hundred  years  aft^ 
Myde  planted  liis  first  seed  that  the  tipple  came  into  favor 
among  the  upper  classes ;  the  flae  leaf  was  then  so  rare  and  sO 
highly  prized  that  'a  small  quantity  of  it,  incloecd  in  a  little 
jar  of  pottery,  used  to  be  given  to  warriors  as  a  reward  for 
deeds  of  special  prowess,  and  the  fortunate  recipients  assem- 

>  Our  wokI  Ua  is  dcrivr»]  (ma  the  coramoa  eound  of  the  charaoter  [in 
thp  plant  at  Amoy,  Hbera  it  ia  lav;  at  CBnlpn  nnd  Peking  it  is  cha;  >t 
Shunghu.  dm;  imif  at  FuchHU,fa.  The  JaiiaoiK,Ruwiiaa,and  Pntunm 
have  »tiu[ied  the  word  cha  (proii,  chah] ;  thn  Bpauirih  ia  It;  and  the  lUuiui 
have  hoth  li  aad  cfta.  In  Japanese  tJic  tea-plant  is  cha-no^;  tca^tnnulB, 
efiomro,"  tea-oaddy,  efcn-ir'.-  ^a-tray,  cftaboK,- tea-pat,  lAoMn,- tesr^jot  utand, 
chMn-tltiti:  vesseb  and  uteiuili  far  makini  l^a,  ekadBifu;  tea-iu.  cto- 
timba;  t«a-cup,  rAawan;  a  oor^iLb^fl  phfAt  p  vnich  aofl  CBTtieaall  the  DHfifr 
aiiea  tor  tea-iDflfcing.  chatcnli:  a  la/Oe  used  io  Ma-roaltine,  chabiiSakul 
tea-etirreT  (of  bamboo).  tAosen.:  a  tea-mai™la'*.'inn ,  dMi»l.v,  k  \nbAniR 

cmakp.  Chaifo, 


TEA  evil 

Med  their  relatives  and  friends  to  partake  of  the  precious  gift.' 
It  did  not  come  into  general  use  among  the  lower  classes  until 
eariy  in  the  17th  cent.,  or  about  the  time  (1610)  when  it  be- 
came generally  known  in  Europe  (whither  it  was  brought  by  the 
Datch  East  India  Co.,  and  not  by  the  Jesuits,  as  is  commonly 
bdieved).  It  was  not  listed  as  a  new  article  of  commerce  in 
Kirope  until  1660,  from  which  time  Endand  held  a  monopoly 
of  it  until  1834.  The  first  tea  sold  in  London  brought  sixty 
shilfings  a  pound. 

Although  in  S.  Japan  the  Camellia  often  reaches  a  hdght 
of  20-30  ft.  and  is  justly  classified  as  a  tree  <with  light,  s^- 
eolored  bark,  and  laj'ge  elliptical  leaves),  where  cultivated  the 
plant  is  taught  a  contracted  habit  and  is  not  allowed  to  attain 
a  height  of  more  than  3  or  4  ft.  This  facilitates  picking  and  is 
Buppoeed  to  improve  Uie  quality  of  the  smaller,  more  obtuse, 
fjabrous  and  leathery  leaves.  The  teas  most  cultivated  are 
the  hybrids  of  the  wild  Assam  (Thea  Assamica)  plant,  and  the 
Oun^;  the  latter  (two  varieties  known  as  Thea  Bohea,  and 
fkea  Viridia  —  black,  and  green  tea)  being  considered  inferior 
to  tl»  former.  Almost  sXL  Japan  tea  is  green,  though  some  black 
tea  is  manufactured  from  wild  leaves.  The  chief  source  of 
the  black  tea  in  Japan  is  Formosa,  which  see.  The  principal 
tea  districts  begin  at  the  33d  and  reach  to  the  40th  degree  of 
N.  lat.;  the  shrub  does  not  thrive  well  farther  N.  than  38**. 
Qimate,  soil,  and  method  of  preparation,  together  with 
difference  of  character  in  the  bushes,  have  the  greatest  influ- 
ence on  the  quality  of  the  finished  tea.  A  moist  sandy  loam 
OQ  the  lower  slopes  of  hills  (about  350  plants  to  each  1000  sq. 
yds.),  is  the  best  bottom  for  a  tea  plantation  (chabatake; 
ckajfen).  In  Japan  the  seeds  are  usually  planted  in  terraces ;  in 
3  yrs.  the  bushes  are  fine,  dense,  and  semi-spherical  in  shape, 
and  are  ready  to  yield  the  first  picking  (best  between  the  5th 
and  10th  yrs.)  of  leaves  —  which  takes  place  about  the  begin- 
ning of  May  and  lasts  3  or  4  weeks.  The  process  (chatsumi}  is 
repeated  in  June,  and  sometimes  in  July.  In  some  instances 
the  tender,  partly  developed  leaves  from  which  the  white  down 
has  not  yet  departed  are  picked  (by  women  and  girls)  in 
April  and  they  yield  the  choicest  and  most  expensive  tea.  In 
Bome  districts  the  gardens  are  roofed  over  before  the  picking 
(into  bamboo  baskets  called  chatsumikago)  begins,  to  protect 
the  bushes  from  the  cold  dew  —  which  reddens  the  young 
leaves  and  gives  them  a  bitter  taste.  From  this  period  on  to 
the  18th  jrr.  there  follows  a  gradual  diminution  untU  new  plants 
are  required.  As  quickly  as  possible  after  being  picked  the 
leaves  are  steamed  for  about  a  half-minute,  the  proceaa  bim^- 
ing  the  oiJ  to  the  surface  and  giving  the  characteristic  tea  odoT . 
J^^^  ^«°  spread  out  on  straw  mats  or  tables,  iaaiied  asid 

T^AJ^nu^a,  tbene^most  imporUmt  proceas,  isdonem^^a- 


firing  godowns,  many  of  which  will  be  noted  in  cities  where 
the  tea  is  prepared.  After  observing  the  process,  and  watching 
the  half-nakea,  perspiring  men  and  women  bendine  above  the 
great  kettles  and  allowing  the  rain  of  sweat  invoked  by  the 
high  temperature  (120°  F.)  to  fall  therein,  upon  the  tea,  one  is 
apt  to  eschew  tea  for  a  while.  The  workers  manipulate  the 
leaves  (or  many  minutes,  rolling  them  into  balls  with  moist 
hands,  as  the  troughs  rotate  above  the  fire.  Wlien  the  supei^ 
heated  mass  has  taken  on  a  dark  olive-green  color,  and  the 
separate  leaves  are  curled,  twisted,  and  rolled,  two  or  more 
firines  at  a  lower  temperature  are  given  them,  when  the 
dried  leaf  is  foimd  to  be  quite  brittle.  Four  lbs.  of  fresh  tea- 
leaves  generally  yield  about  1  lb.  of  the  finished  article  of 
commerce. 

The  Coloring  (which  is  applied  to  green  tea  only,  and  which 
is  now  frowned  upon  by  the  U.S.  Gov't)  is  imparted  toward 
the  close  of  the  last  firing.  A  tiny  bit  of  Prussian  blue  and 
Chinese  soapstone  (in  China)  or  gypsum  (in  Japan)  in  the 
proportion  of  4  to  1,  is  added  and  is  readily  absorbed  by  the 
moist,  warm  leaves.  The  only  rational  end  this  coloring  serves 
is  to  heighten  the  pronounced  green  of  the  leaves.  The  scent- 
ing of  tea,  so  common  in  Chma,  is  not  practiced  much  in 
Japan,  aJbeit  one  sometimes  meets  with  teas  to  which  a  special 
fragrance  has  been  imparted  by  pouring  hot  water  on  a  mix- 
ture of  the  odorous  blossoms  (separatedf  from  their  stems  and 
cal3rxe8)  of  jasmine^  gardenia,  cherry  blooms,  orange  blossoms, 
etc.  When  the  tea  is  otherwise  ready,  it  is  mixed  at  the  rate  oi 
100  lbs.  of  tea  to  40  lbs.  of  the  flowers,  and  allowed  to  remain 
in  contact  for  24  hrs.  They  are  then  separated  by  sifting, 
fanning,  and  picking.  The  tea  takes  from  them  their  moisture 
and  aroma,  both  of  which  can  be  eliminated  again  by  a  quick 
heating.  The  *  bouquet'  thus  acquired  remains  from  1  to  6 
yrs.,  according  to  oiiality  and  strength,  if  the  tea  is  carefully 
packed.  The  so-called  *  Tea  of  Heaven  '  is  prepared  from  tfaie 
leaves  of  Hydrangea  serrata, 

'  Japanese  Tea,  unlike  that  of  China,  when  made  with  boil- 
ing water  will  give  a  bitter  decoction :  the  finer  the  quality  of 
the  tea,  the  more  care  is  required  in  making  it.  Car^ul 
travelers  who  drink  tea  in  the  absence  of  boiled  water  may 
wish  to  remember  that  the  water  is  not  always  boiled.  Also 
that  the  tea  served  at  wayside  tea-houses  is  not  always  of  the 
best  grade;  a  half-peck  basket  of  the  crudely  treated  leaves 
sells  for  2  serif  and  when  one  pays  10  sen  for  a  small  pot  the 
profit  is  about  1000%.  The  Japanese  drinks  tea  at  every  meal 
as  well  as  between  times^  sipping  it  plain,  without  milk  or 
sugar,  and  sometimes  mixing  it  with  his  rice.  No  sooner  has 
the  traveler  in  the  interior  of  Japan  sat  down  in  an  inn  than 
a  basiD  with  some  glowing  coals  is  set  before  him  to  h^t  his 
p/pe  by  and  tea  to  refresn  him.  When  a  customer  enten  a 


CHA-NO-T0  ^QEREMONT 

mJAve  ahop»  it  la  a  ppliit'ol:  etiquette  in  ^  hoiue  tli»t  m  eup 
of  green  tea  be  aet  oeCoiei  him  at  .onoe,  belore jmroeeedinf  to 
bonneflg  —  j^erohaooe-as  fh  sUmolant  to  tradel  While  the  tan^, 
handleieeB  cups,  £iom  which  rise  little  spuals  of  steam,  andm 
the  bottom  of  which-  a  few  diminutlTe  bits  of  leaf  usually 
swirl  about,  look  innocent  enough,  —  reminding  one  strongly 
of  the  camoric  tea  of  youth,  —  too  assiduous  a  devotion  to 
these  small  temptaticms  help  to  tan  one's  internal  eoon<xny.to 
the  consistency  of  good  shoe4eather,  and  to  promote  an  indi- 
gestion wMdb  (Moly  hard  exercise  can  relieve.  It  is  not,  however, 
to  the  tea  one  drinks  in  the  Ori^it  that  the  poet  r^erred  when 
he  called  it  'Teal  thqu  soft,  thou  sober,  sage,  and  venenkble 


idity  1  owe  tne  nappiesi>  moment  oi  my  uiej^  lor  uie  tea  i 
served  there  cannot- he  said  to  appeal  to  the  Western  taste. 

Excessive  use,  especiaUy  c^  green  tea,  i^ects  the  nervqus 

system  unfavorably.  Its  action  is  stimulating  and  invigoratr 

ing,  and  owing  to  the  presence  of  tannin,  more  or  less  lustrin- 

gmt.  Its  main  quality  depends  upon  the  alkaloid  theine,  which- 

accelerates  the  circulatioh  cf  the  blood  and  is  held  to  retard 

the  waste  of  the  tissues.  While  tea  contains  but  trifling  nutr^ 

meat,  it  dimiaiahes  the  desire  for  food.  Cheap  tea  (senc^)  is. 

drunk  by  the  commonalty,  while  the  better  chuas  pay  from  15 

to  35  «en  a  lb.  for  good  grades;  the  choice  young  leaves  c^  fine 

tea  igyokuro)  picked  in  April  bring  from  ^  to  .¥l2  a  kwamime 

(about  8}  lbs.),  albeit  30  days  later  the  price  drops  to  ¥3-r4. 

In  ouality  and  quantity  the  provinces  of  Central  Hond5  take 

the  lead  in  tea  production:  tea  raised  outside  the  district  lying 

between  34^  and  36^  N.  lat.,  is  usually  of  a  poorer  quality. 

^e  center  of  tea  production  m  Japan  is  Smzuoaka  which 

turns  out  annually  about  2,500,000  A;t(;an,  valued  at  5^260,000 

y^Uj  or  more  than  one  half  the  total  production  (varies  from 

10  to  13  mUlion  yen)  of  the  country.   A^iye  comes  next  with 

530,000  kwaUf  valued  at  1,080,000  yen.    The  KySto  district 

KrowB  about  622,000  kwan,  valued  at  880,000  yen.    About 

10,000  ktoan  of  black  tea,  valued  at  20,000  yen,  is  produced 

^ch  year.  Tea  Traders'  Guilds  handle  the  output,  of  which 

^  United  States  and  Canada  take  the  major  part. 

The  Channo-yu  Qit.,  'hot  water  for  tea')  ceremony  so 
popular  in  Old  Japan  (whither  it  was  brought  from  China  by 
jbe  Buddhist  abbot  Eaaai,  between  1203  and  1218),  though 
Woerly  a  cult  characterized  by  a  subtlety  and  complexity  of 
V)clal  etiquette  extraordinarily  elaborate  in  its  finish^  details, 
b  out  of  touch  with  the  times  and  is  falling  gradually  into 
fhuse.  Europeans  find  the  ceremony  only  tderably  interest-. 
BiK  ai  first,  and  sin^arly  nionotonous  when  witnessed  a 
id^time.  It  came  into  great  prominence  in  tl^e  15\&  cesx\»^ 
fPlQ  Ajiiixkagashdffun,  Yoahimasa^  built  thp  first  cKoaeki  cs 


ex  RICE 

Hea-ehamber '  and  deJled  it  the  Silver  PavUion  (see  KySto) ;  and 
it  attained  to  a  still  higher  development  when  Sen^^ruhRikyU 
(1520^91)  codified  it  and  drew  up  regulations  that  are 
observed  to  the  present  day.  The  intricate  performance  is 
described  in  detail  in  Capt.  Brinkley*8  Oriental  Series,  and  a 
modified  form  of  it  can  be  witnessed  at  certain  of  the  metro- 
politan tea-houses  (cha-ya)  by  giving  notice  in  advance.  The 
tea  is  whipped  into  a  light-green  froth  and  served  in  lacquered 
bowls  resting  upon  a  priaentoiry  or  stand.  The  white  rice- 
flour  cakes  are  usually  as  dry  as  the  ceremony.  The  traveler 
shoidd  arrange  for  such  exhibitions  with  the  hotel  manager,  as 
guides  not  unfrequently  take  one  to  tea-houses  known  as 
machiairjayc^  (assignation  houses),  which  abound  in  every  big 
city,  and  which  are  usually  patronized  by  a  class  with  which 
the  tourist  will  not  wish  to  come  in  contact.  In  any  event,  the 
modem  cha^ruhyu  is  but  a  travesty  of  the  ancient  cult. 

'Rice  (Oryza  scUiva.  Japanese^  komej  etc.),  a  member  of  the 
grass  family  with  some  44  cultivated  varieties  and  about  200 
subspecies,  is  grown  extensively  in  Japan,  where  (as  in  India. 
China,  Malaysia,  etc.)  it  forms  a  larger  part  of  the  diet  ot 
many  of  the  people  than  the  product  of  any  other  one  plant. 
It  is  closely  bound  up  with  the  life  of  the  Japanese,  whose 
language  has  a  different  word  for  almost  every  particular 
form  of  it.  Over  75%  of  rice  substance  consists  of  starchy 
matter,  but  it  is  deficient  in  albuminoids  (the  flesh-forming 
material),  and  is  thus  best  adapted  for  use  in  warm  climates. 
Tlie  grain  was  cultivated  in  the  monsoon  region  of  Asia  far 
back  in  antiquity;  and  although  certain  traces  of  its  origin 
are  lost,  it  is  believed  to  have  reached  Japan  from  India  dj)^ 
way  of  China  and  Korea.  The  peasantry  regard  it  as  a  direct 
gift  from  the  rice-goddess;  the  Siberians  know  it  as  Saracen 
millet;  and  it  is  s^d  to  be  the  chief  daily  food  for  at  least  one 
third  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  world.  The  Japanese  product 
commands  a  higher  price  than  that  of  Java,  China,  or  India, 
for  which  reason  it  is  exported  as  a  luxury  to  many  parts  of 
the  Asiatic  littoral.  A  poorer  grade  comes  back  to  oe  con- 
sumed by  the  peasantrj^  who  cannot  afford  to  eat  the  grain 
they  raise  in  their  own  fields!  The  best  native  quality  shows 
a  medium-sized  handsome  grain,  with  a  dull  silky  luster  and 
a  glossy  fracture.  Rice-lovers  soon  learn  to  distinguish  it  from 
the  cheaper  imported  product,  and  in  country  inns  to  demand 
mochi-gomef  or  glutinous  rice,  rather  than  the  urucki.  or  com- 
mon article.  The  rice  (or  paddjr)  field  is  called  to ;  the  youne 
shoots  or  sprouts,  nae.  The  sowing  of  the  plant  begins  toward 
the  end  of  April  or  early  in  May,  and  it  is  transplanted  30-45 
days  later  (according  to  the  district).  When  it  is  fairly  well 
developed  in  the  field  it  is  called  ine.  It  blossoms  in  early  Sept.. 
and  the  harvest  lasts  from  late  Sept.  into  Nov.  The  unhuflea 
£;nun  is  momi,  and  the  cleaned  g;rain  hakuLmai,  When  this  la 


SAKE 

bofled  it  is  called  by  the  several  names  mentioned  at  p.  xlvL 
The  rice-straw  is  used  in  a  variety  of  wa^s,  and  is  made  up  into 
mats,  rope,  and  other  coarse  fabrics.  Foreigners  find  the  rice- 
Belds  particularly  in  evidence  in  the  late  spnne  because  of  the 
intolerable  stench  which  arises  from  tliem.  The  cool  weather 
holds  this  in  abeyance,  but  with  the  warm  June  simshine  it 
emerges  to  defile  the  country  walks,  to  remind  the  visitor  of  the 
loofle  habits  of  the  natives,  and  to  poison  the  atmosphere  of 
QMy  a  charming  spot. 

Sake  (pron.  sahf-kay),  a  pale,  deceptive,  intoxicating  liquor 
uistilled  from  common  fermented  rice  and  containing  about 
12%  of  alcohol,  is  to  the  Japanese  what  the  aUied  arrack  is  to 
the  Chinese  —  from  whom  the  idea  of  sake  and  the  complex 
pn)ce88  of  distillation  (consult  The  Industries  of  Japan^  bv 
J'  J,  Reirif  p.  97)  were  received.  It  is  the  popular  tipple  of  aU 
classes,  who  take  it  warm,  at  the  beginning  of  a  meal;  a  little 
of  it  flush^  their  faces,  and  mounts  into  meir  heads,  while  a 
lot  of  it  disturbs  their  equilibrium  and  tends  to  pickle  their 
^testines.  Foreign   critics  —  to  many  of  whom  it  is  detest- 
able —  have  compared  it  to  'weak  sherry  which  has  been  kept 
^  a  beer-bottle.'  The  natives  regard  it  as  a  toddy  rather  than 
a  neat  spirit  on  which  to  get  drunk.   When  this  infelicitous 
state  appears  desirable,  they  now  have  recourse  to  the  pungent 
uid  vitnolic  beverages  (seiydshu)  of  the  foreigner.  The  latter 
should  remember  that  sake  and  wine  should  not  be  taken  at 
the  same  repast  except  by  those  hardened  to  the  confusing 
i^ts  of  'mixed  drinks.'  ShochUf  a  stronger  liquor  distilled 
from  the  dregs  of  sakef  contains  from  25  to  50%  of  alcohol, 
^d resembles  the  gin  of  the  alien  and  the  samshu  (lit.,  'thrice 
fired')  of  the  Chinese.  Drunk  in  small  quantities  it  produces 
J  moderate  stupefaction,  but  imdue  familiarity  with  it  engen- 
^  sinister  results  ana  renders  one  limp  to  the  finger-tips. 
The  comparatively  temperate  Japanese  rather  prefer  mirin, 
*  sweetish  liquor,  ranging  from  yellow  to  brown  in  color,  with 
the  consistency  of  oil,  an  aroma  peculiar  to  itself,  ana  with 
practically  the  same  quantity  of  alcohol  as  sake  proper.    When 
old,  it  is  called  komiririf  and  is  then  darker,  sweeter,  and  more 
highly  prized.   Great  quantities,  under  the  name  of  toso-shu 
ortoao,  are  drunk  in  every  house  after  the  first  congratulations 
at  New  Year,  not  only  by  every  member  of  the  family,  but  also 
when  the  New  Year's  calls  are  made.   Shiro  (white)  sake,  a 
sweet  drink  with  the  appearance  of  milk,  is  manufactured  by 
converting  glutinous  rice  into  meal,  mixing  this  with  water, 
and  adding  a  little  sake.  It  has  but  a  slight  flustering  effect, 
and  is  liked  by  all  classes.   Children  drink  it,  and  use  it  at 
girls'  and  dolls'  festivals.    The  chief  saJce  distilleries  are  at 
Kishixiomiya,  near  Kobe,  where  the  best  brands  (Safcura 
Mommime  and  Kiku  Masamune  are  high  in  favor)  axe  pio- 
diiad.  The  teims  'hoe-beer' and  'rice-brandy '  do  not  propetV^ 


eni  CHOP-STICKS— SHOPS , 

^^fuNidtelike  sake.   A  dobwrohu^a  is  a  vendor  of  inferior  on- 
'strsiiMJa  sake  drunk  by  laborers. 

@lkop-8ticks  {hashi)  were  perhaps  introduced  by  the  Chin- 
^Sie,  who  call  them '  hwai  taz^*  or  'nimble  lads/  A  little  practice 
enables  one  to  learn  the  tnck  of  holding  and  handling  them; 
the  lower  stick  is  usually  pressed  firmly  against  the  3d  finger, 
while  the  uppier  one  ~  which  plays  on  the  other  like  the  half 
of  a  pair  of  ton^  —  is  held  loosely  between  the  thim:ib  and 
the  forefinger.  With  them  the  eater  pinches  up  the  food 
aln^ady  cut  into  mouthf  uls  or  so  cooked  as  to  be  readily  manip- 
ulated, and  conveys  it  to  the  mouth.  The  bowl  of  rice,  etc.,  is 
often  Drought  to  the  lips,  and  the  contents  swept  into  the 
mouth  with  the  haahif  the  liquid  part  being  drunk.  A  Japanese 
does  not  consider  any  one  expert  with  chop-sticks  who  cannot 
pick  up  150  dried  peas  with  them  in  one  minute.  The  lead- 
pehcil-like  sticks,  which  taper  at  one  end,  are  made  in  many 
sizes  —  the  long  ones  being  used  deftly  in  cooking. 

J.  Shops.  Curios.  Culture  Pearls.  Rock  Crystals.  Jade. 

^ops  (see  Curios)  in  Japan  are  legion  and  as  a  rule  highly 
interesting.  In  the  big  establishments  conducted  along  foreign 
lines,  prices  are  marked  in  plain  figures  and  are  not  deviated 
from  imless  piu*chases  amount  to  a  considerable  sum,  in  which 
case  a  little  amiable  bargaining  may  result  in  a  small  reduction. 
Absurd  values  are  placed  on  articles  in  some  of  the  native 
shops,  and  foiu*  or  five  times  as  much  as  a  thing  is  worth  is 
demanded  —  particularly  from  foreigners.  Dealers  often  work 
on  the  supposition  that  by  asking  a  high  price  for  a  thing  they 
will  be  offered  at  least  one  half,  and  thus  get  more  than  it  is 
worth.  English  is  now  spoken  in  most  of  the  best  establish- 
ments. Not  a  few  of  these  are  known  by  single  words  as 
Tdkashimaya  (Takashimay  the  place  where  the  proprietor  was 
bom,  and  yo,  store);  Yamatoyat  MikimotOf  YamatOy  etc.  In 
the  purely  native  shops  tea  in  tiny  cups  is  offered  to  the  visitor, 
and  soft  cushions  (zcinUon)  are  brought  forward  for  one  to  sit 
upon.  Where  the  floors  are  covered  with  matting,  foot-cover- 
ings are  dipped  over  one's  shoes  by  servants  in  waiting  at  Uie 
entrance.  Prettily  appointed  tea-rooms,  somewhat  after  the 
Western  fashion,  where  hot  tea  and  cakes  or  crackers  are 
served  free  at  all  hours,  are  becoming  features  of  some  of  the 
larger  shops,  and  in  several  of  them  light  luncheons  are  served 
daintily  and  cheaply.  Ladies  find  the  silk  shops  (kinumonoifa) 
of  absorbing  interest;  their  varied  stocks,  particularly  the 
hand-made  embroideries,  are  cheaper  than  similar  ones  in  the 
U.S.A.  A  pleasing  feature  is  that  skilled  workmen  are  always 
ready  to  carry  out  the  individual  ideas  of  the  visitor  and  to 
mske  anything,  from  exquisitely  fine  silk  underwear  to  the 
woetgoi^eoua  mandarin  coat  on  short  notice  and  at  reasonable 


UUBIOB 

prices.  TheibcMieboaimeBdadjavviiom 
book  have  EngiMh«Bpwikliig  oleilaiif  and  are  iHUBlly  ooadaoted 
in  European  or  American  ways,  with  fixed  inioea,  eto^  Sbops 
in  Japan  c^en  earij* 

•  Ciuios  (ftaruddgu,  koio)  abound  in  Japan,  and  while  many 
are  of  rare  merit  and  beauty^  others  are  of  poor  quality  and 
doubtful  pat^nity  (see  p.  cnv).  Perhaps  no  country  of  the 
w<nld  has  been  so  assiduously  ransacked  and  so  stiipped  of 
genuine  antiques  as  has  Japan,  but  that  real  old  art  treasures 
are  still  to  be  found  occasionally  is  proved  by  the  fact  (one  a^ 
too  frequently  heralded  in  the  newspapers)  that  thieves  make 
big  hauls  of  temple  treasures  from  tmie  to  time  and  that  these 
mompUy  fimd  their  wa^  into  the  regular  channels  of  trade. 
Many  of  the  sometime  rich  Buddhist  temples  (often  veritable 
treasure-houses  oi  beautiful  antiques)  are  now  in  financial 
straits,  and  every  now  and  then  they  auction  off  thousands 
of  yen  worth  of  their  cherished  rdics.  It  is  common  knowledge, 
however,  that  at  sudi  sales  (notably  that  ot'the  Ky5to  Nishi 
Honffioarai,  in  1913,  wheare  neariy  one  half  million  yen  were 
realized)  local  collectors  pay  surprisingly  high  prices  for  master- 
pieces in  bronze  or  porcelain,  old  screens  or  color-prints.  In 
fact,  the  prices  wliidi  weattliy  Japanese  will  pay  for  original 
spemmens  of  the  early  native  art  are  almost  incomprehensible 
to  foreigDerB.  An  article  which  from  a  detached  viewpoint 
may  have  no  pretentions  to  artistic  beauty,  but  which  may 
once  have  reposed  in  the  collection  of  an  early  mikado  or 
ahdffunf  albeit  its  intrinac  worth  may  not  be  more  than  25  tj^, 
may  bring  anywhere  from  ¥100  to  ¥60,000.  (Comp.  p.  cxviii.) 
A  folding  screen  hy  Korin  or  Kand  Tanyu:  a  sculptured  wood 
figure  by  Kukai  or  Unkei;  a  bit  of  gienmne  S?umzui  (now  as 
rare,  as  well  known,  and  as  highly  prized  as  a  painting  by  some 
great  master) ;  or  any  heirloom  of  a  shadowy  sAo^n  will  bring, 
in  the  l&nd  of  its  production,  not  ten,  but  a  hundred  times  as 
much  as  the  average  Occidental  collector  would  pay  for  it. 
And  the  risk  in  buying  such  things  is  as  great  as  their  cost,  for 
even  the  shrewdest  native  antiquarians  (than  which  few 
indeed  are  more  alert)  are  not  unf requently '  singed '  by  their 
ef]ually  astute  coimtrymen,  —  who  f or|;e  antiques  with  such 
slull  that  originals  often  look  tawdry  beside  them !  —  In  a  coun- 
try like  Japan  where  there  are  no  'lost  arts,'  and  where  it  is 
easier  for  a  skilled  craftsman,  with  a  highly  developed  artistic 
sense,  to  make  a  meritorious  article  than  a  meretricious  one, 
new  methods  c^  fleecing  the  credulous  arise  almost  daUy.  So 
amazin^y  expert  are  the  counterfeiters,  and  so  profitable  their 
work;  tliat  there  are  now  recognized  centers  where  'old 
emioB'  are  made  to  order  in  any  quantity.  Osaka  heads  the 
lift  as  the  greatest  emporium  of  fake  antiquities,  but  T&ky^  \a 
Hag  to  wrest  its  Baprem&cy  from  it.  Even  digm&ed  Kobe 
ftrikfttOFieiv  of  the  elevating  art  of  imitamg  poataf!^ 


■^^^^Wnp^  and  I 


CtJHIOS 


and  other  native  cities  are  forging  abead'fl 
slong  Himilar  linea.  Hundreds  of  paintings  are  ealA  to  be^ 
each  year  from  Tokyo  to  farmhouses  in  distant  i 
where  they  are  hung  in  the  living-rooms  iralil  by  ex, 
charcoal  smolic  tliey  acquire  the  begrimed  meUownea 
aeceaaary  to  the  appearance  of  correct  'old  niHAtets.'  The 
lowing  editorial,  written  by  a  collector  of  international  ran 
appeio^d  in  the  Japan  Daily  Herald  of  May  3,  1912,  ^ 
reproduced  here  because  of  its  peculiar  value  to  fo^ 
tjavelers:  — 


iTHt  f^dwave  Jiiifl  j)ta¥e4  to 


CUIUOS  cxT 


iaitieh  tbe  '  ^d '  jnovM  to  have  been  a  gilded  alloar:  all  then  have  been 
ud  are  still  being  disposed  of  to  the  uninitiated  at  pnees  many  times  above 
tbeirvahie. 

.  It  has  been  stated  on  more  than  one  occasion  that  the  purchaser  himself 
|8  to  blame  in  this  matter,  but  we  cannot  altoa^her  agree  with  this  opinion. 
Coming  as  he  does  to  a  oountiy  in  every  way  oifFerent  from  that  to  which  he 
U8  been  accustomed,  he  has  to  rely  to  a  great  extent  on  what  he  reads  and 
bean.  The  guidebocdcs  are  strangely  silent  on  the  dangers  of  purchasing 
<>uikM  in  Japan,  while  the  class  of  people  with  whom  the  tourist  comes  into 
oo&taot  also  finds  it  far  more  remunerative  to  turn  a  blUid  eye  to  the  spolia- 
Qon  d  tourists  by  curio-dealers  than  to  advise  them  to  exerdse  caution  or 
to  get  into  touch  with  those  idio  could  give  them  sound  advice  on  the  merits 
or  demerits  of  art  objects.  All  the  world  over  the  chief  asset  of  the  average 
cQiicHlealer  is  his  ability  to  deceive  his  customers,  either  by  direct  false- 
flood  or  inference  —  and  in  Japan  tiie  dealer  has,  perhaps,  even  less  regard 
for  the  truth  than  his  confrere  abroad. 

Then  is  no  short  out  to  knowledge  of  Japanese  curios;  experience,  more 
or  leM  eoatly,  being  the  only  method  by  which  a  collector  can  separate  the 
maine  from  the  forged  productions.  If  would-be  purchasers  would  only 
pay  a  few  vimts  to  the  Museum  at  Uyeno  (see  Tdkud)^  or  seelc  the  advice  of 
MUeefeorB  living  in  the  country,  they  would  at  least  have  a  reasonable 
«unoe  of  ascertaining  where  genuine  art  objects  could  be  secured,  and 
UN  what  would  be  a  reasonable  price  to  i>ay  for  such  curios. 

In  eonclusipn,  we  can  only  remark  that  if  the  local  police  f  oUow  the  lead 
Mt  l^  their  Osaka  contemporaries  they  should  secure  a  rich^haul  of  for- 
mes in  this  city.  No  doubt  a  raid,  such  as  that  carried  out  in  Osaka,  would 
{▼oke  a  great  deal  of  criticism  from  those  directhr  or  indirectly  concerned, 
oot  it  would  have  the  virtue  of  checking  the  fast-spreading  discontent 
ttumat  tourists  who  have  returned  home  from  visits  to  Japan  only  to  find 
tut  their  curios  have  developed  irreparable  defects  on  the  journey. 

The  traveler  should  not  infer  from  the  above  that  there  are 
DO  honest  dealers  in  Japan.  On  the  contrary,  there  are  many, 
Bot  a  few  of  them  thoroughly  competent  connoisseurs,  who 
nave  the  confidence  of  foreign  residents  and  travelers,  and  who 
^  not  discredit  themselves  by  deceiving  their  customers. 
The  aim  of  the  writer  has  been  to  exclude  certain  crafty  and 
unworthy  dealers  from  the  Guidebook,  and  to  give  prominence 
to  those  of  known  repute,  with  an  unwillingness  either  to 
barter  their  reputation  for  a  trumpery  temporary  gain,  or  to 
oetray  the  confidence  the  traveler  imposes  in  them.  An  excel- 
lent plan  is  to  make  no  purchases  hurriedly;  bv  going  first  to 
the  best  shop  in  a  place  and  getting  the  ideas  of  the  dealer,  his 
prices,  his  reasons  for  asking  them,  and  his  remarks  on  (quality, 
then  by  making  mental  notes  of  the  salient  characteristics  of 
high-grade  articles,  lower  grades  and  spurious  goods  can  more 
readily  be  detected.  Any  reputable  house  will  send  things  out 
on  ^proval,  and  by  getting  the  expert  advice  of  some  friend 
on  these,  the  traveler  is  pretty  siu-e  of  not  being  deceived.  It 
should  be  borne  in  mind  always  that  in  the  end  the  finest  and 
costliest  things  are  the  best  and  most  satisfactory.   Genuine 
ttt  objects  can  rarely  be  bought  at  lower  than  market  prices, 
nd  whosoever  has  a  notion  that  he  is  getting  a  '  valuable  find 
at  one  half  its  value  is  usuallv  getting  duped  instead.  Also  it 
should  be  remembered  that  the  best  dealers  guarantee  thin^ 
« xepresented,  and  that  those  with  a  reputation  to  maiiitaiTi 
u%  mocfa  easier  to  get  saiM&ction  from  than  a  crafty  m^^ 


cxvi  CURIOS 

whose  entire  stock  in  trade  may  not  be  worth  ¥500.  Tfa^- 
first  cannot  afiFord  to  play  unfair^  while  the  second  is  usualhr 
disdainful  of  what  the  shorn  one  thinks  of  him.   Caution  & 
necessary  in  dealing  with  traders  who  importune  visitors  at^ 
the  hotels,  unless  they  represent  some  well-known  shop,  or  can. 
be  vouch^  for  by  the  hotel  manager.    It  may  be  accepted  as- 
a  safe  axiom  that  purchases  can  be  made  more  advantageously 
at  headquarters  than  of  peddlers. 

In  almost  every  Japanese  port  city  there  are  foreigners  who 
have  spent  many  years  and  small  fortunes  in  making  collec- 
tions of  Japanese  cul  objects;  some  to  gratify  a  passion  for  th^- 
beautiful  in  art;  others  to  make  complete  collections  whidL 
they  sell  later  to  museums  or  wealthy  enthusiasts  who  hav& 
neither  the  time  nor  the  experience  to  collect  the  things  them* 
selves.  In  Yokohama  alone  there  are  a  dozen  or  more  such 
men,  each  of  whom  takes  a  gentleman's  pleasure  in  being  help- 
ful to  a  properly  accredited  stranger  genuinely  intere^ed  in 
the  national  arts  of  Japan.  Mr,  Htigh  G,  Ball,  the  Managing 
Editor  of  the  Japan  Daily  Heraldy  a  connoisseur  of  faultless 
judgment,  collects  (for  his  own  pleasure  solely)  sword-guards 
and  porcelains,  and  is  an  authority  not  only  on  these  But  on 
inro  as  well;  Mr,  William  Laturence  Keane  collects  color-prints, 
etc.,  and  others  (names  can  be  had  from  some  resident) 
specialize  in  various  things.  Mr.  Okura,  of  Tokyo,  possesses 
a  collection  of  antiques  even  more  wonderful  than  that  of  the 
imperial  Museum;  and  there  are  many  other  beautiful  collec- 
tions in  the  metropolis.  A  common  bond  of  svmpathy  exists 
between  all  collectors,  and  by  getting  in  toucn  with  one  and 
profiting  by  his  advice  the  traveler  can  often  save  himself 
money,  time,  and  chagrin.  —  Mr.  Robert  Young,  of  Kobe,  has  a 
knowledge  of  things  Japanese  possessed  by  few  men;  Mid  Mr. 
M.  Hamaguchi,  of  the  Miyako  Hotel,  at  Kyoto,  is  an  anti- 
quarian of  note  (as  well  as  a  deep  student  of  Buddhism).  There 
also  exist,  in  some  of  the  cities,  honorable  (English-speaking) 
men  of  high  ideals  but  modest  incomes  whose  hobby  is  tiie 
assembling,  in  a  small  way,  of  representative  collections  of 
color-prints,  ts^Jba,  inro,  netsuke,  and  the  like;  and  who,  when 
they  nave  acquirea  a  few  hundred  pieces  (desirable  and  usually 
inexpensive  collections),  sell  them  at  a  reasonable  percentage 
above  their  cost.  While  in  pursuit  of  this  hobby  they  absorb 
information  pertaining  to  dealers  and  art  objects  peculiarly 
valuable  to  intending  purchasers,  and  whosoever  of  this  class 
can  command  their  services  is  fortunate.  They  are  not  guides, 
and  they  do  not  accept  commissions  from  dealers,  but  they  are 
willing  to  act  with  foreigners  in  the  capacity  of  an  expert 
buyer,  as  an  interpreter,  or  a  companion  on  rambles  through 
the  city.  A  card  or  a  letter  from  some  acquaintance,  and  a  fair 
fee  (¥5  a  day  is  advisable)  will  enlist  their  s^^ces.  Suoh 
a  man  is  usually  known  to  the  hotel  manager  or  a  fcveiga  ' 


CUBI06  oevH 

i.  Mr.  T.  Suzuki,  67  Ryudo  Machi,  AjnbitJcii,  T6ky^ 
imended  as  expert  in  the  correct  claaaifiieatkm  of  manj 
e  art^wares,  and  as  an  agreeable  and  trustworthy  comr 
(speaks  fluent  English). 

iicyO  and  other  citiee  there  are  certain  otgnniied  sode^ 
)Se  members  profess  to  be  art  ocMmoissenrs,  and  who 
HI  sale  (for  a  commission)  various  art  products.  Their 
I  are  chiefly  with  their  own  nationals^  and  the  average 
r  will  no  doubt  find  more  to  suit  his  fancy  in  one  of  the 
on  curioHshops  {Kotoya),  There  also  exist  dealers  who 
leir  commercial  ingenuity  to  the  extent  of  purporting 
exclusive  as  to  require  letters  of  introduction  uom  an 
ror  a  legation  before  admitting  strangers  to  their  ultrar 
I  displays.  The  credulous  rich  may  perchance  be  able  to 
he  necessaiy  certificate  of  character  throu^  those  inin- 
mbassadors,  or  consuls  who  lend  themselves  to  the  pla& 
genieral  rule  the  best  curios  produced  in  the  Empire 
e  naturally  to  those  cities  where  foreign  travelers' foro* 
n  the  greatest  numbers,  and  in  these  places  the  most 
iory  collections  can  always  be  found.  It  is  a  delusioa 
re  that  one  can  pick  up  valuable  curios  at  low  prices 
te  places  overlooked  by  others.  It  is  safe  to  assume 
mnsackable  place  of  importance  has  been  disregarded 
hustling  representatives  of  the  largest  curio-dealen 
).  Eivery  crack  and  cranny  in  Japan  has  been  searched 
ked  by  these  alert  ^nissaries,  and  not  only  have  they 
certain  regions  of  all  their  good  things,  but  have  some- 
placed  those  removed  by  forged  ones  from  T5ky6  or 
Whatever  may  have  been  neglected  by  these  hawk- 
^ers  have  been  snapped  up  promptly  by  local  collectors, 
now  more  than  ever  are  alive  to  the  scarcity  and 
rising  values  of  meritorious  things.  Not  a  few  of  the 
I  ^  temple  heirlooms '  on  sale  at  Nikk5,  Nara,  and 
3quented  resorts  have  been  sent  there  frcHn  manuf ao- 
enters,  and  discriminating  buyers  have  learned  long 
at  they  can  save  haulage  by  buying  them  in  the  poit 
apanese  artists  can  nearly  always  dq  seen  in  the  great 
.  at  Nara,  or  hovering  about  the  mausolea  in  NDckd, 
the  beautiful  objects  preserved  there,  and  few  indeed 
masterpieces  that  have  not  been  reproduced  not  <Hice 
dreds  of  times.  In  cases  where  only  one  or  two  famous 
^  or  carvings  are  known  to  exist,  authentic  copies  find 
sale  among  native  collectors,  and  artists  are  kept  busy 
them.  In  this  connection  it  is  worth  remembering  that 
lodem  works  of  art  are  in  reality  much  supenor  to 
the  past.  The  present-day  craftsman  is  often  much 
ban  nis  groping  prototype,  and  where  equ^y  good 
Hi  «ie  employed,  new  work  is  not  unfrequently  pTO^^ 


cxviii  CURIOS 

The  fancy  prices  which  deal^s  sometimes  demand  for  thei 
wares  are  not  always  unjustifiable.  Kameokay  Motonobu,  Maaa 
nobu,  SkubuTif  and  other  masters  of  the  early  schools  of  painting 
are  to  the  Japanese  what  Velasquez,  Raphael,  Van  Dyck,  Mn 
rt2Zo,  and  others  are  to  us.  Koho-Daiahi  looms  quite  as  large  ii 
the  Buddhistic  mind  as  Shakespeare  does  in  ours,  and  the  avei 
a^e  Japanese  collector  would  pav  more  for  an  autnentic  mastei 
piece  by  Unkei  than  he  would,  for  a  nude  figure  by  MicheA 
angelo.  Yoshitsune  is  the  native  Bayard,  and  any  ^icle  ti^ 
was  his  is  as  precious  to  the  antiquarian  as  Napoleon's  swoni 
or  George  Washington's  watch  would  be  to  us.  Bits  of  lac(](ue 
that  once  belonged  to  the  militant  Nohunaga,  or  an  iron  ncc 
pot  which  the  monkey-faced  but  stout-hearted  Hideyoshi  use 
in  his  camp,  now  Imng  almost  their  weight  in  gold,  irrespectiv 
of  their  size.  And  in  this  connection  an  old  rice-pot  is  muc 
more  valuable  to  a  Japanese  than  a  new  one,  because  th 
metallic  taste  has  been  burned  out  of  it,  just  as  old  lacquer  i 
considerably  less  '  tasty '  than  a  new  piece.  Furthermore,  i 
is  not  even  to  be  hoped,  that  the  natives  will  ever  discard  th 
unjust  contention  that  a  wealthy  foreigner  should  not  pa 
more  for  an  article  than  a  poor  (and  of  course  more  deservmi 
Japanese.  During  feudal  times  the  rich  were  made  to  pay  fc 
the  poor;  and  as  the  industrious,  saving,  and  self-denying  i 
the  Occident  are  always  expected  to  carry  the  shiftless  spenc 
thrift,  so  in  Japan  it  follows  logically  that  any  one  with  meai 
enough  to  come  to  such  a  distant  country  should  not  objet 
to  pa3ring  more  for  a  thing  than  a  native  is  asked! 

The  stranger  should  be  constantly  on  his  guard  when  dealin 
with  imknown  firms.  In  the  Far  East  courtesy  and  sua^ 
mannerisms  are  often  like  the  beauty  that  is  but  skin  dee] 
and  the  most  shameless  impositions  are  practiced  in  quartei 
where  one  would  not  look  for  them.  It  should  be  rememberc 
that  certain  Japanese  are  as  tricky  as  they  are  polite,  and  thi 
their  resourcefulness  and  imitative  ability  are  equaled  on] 
by  their  lack  of  scruples.  The  traveler  is  also  warned  again 
the  'fake'  auctions  manipulated  with  the  help  of  'prio 
boosters,'  where  perforatea  bronzes,  jaded  curios,  and  max 
trumpery  things  are  unloaded  on  the  unwary.  The  lure  of  tl 
antique  is  so  strong  that  one  does  not  always  exercise  one 
best  judgment  in  auction-rooms  where  trashy  stuff  under  ti 
guise  of  *daimyd  collections'  is  disposed  of  at  stiff  prices.  C 
the  other  hand,  one  is  often  able  to  pick  up  excellent  pieces  < 
bric-^brac  at  the  legitimate  salesrooms  in  Yokohama  ai 
Kobe,  when  the  collection  of  some  foreigner  is  sold  on  accoui 
of  death  or  other  causes.  Consult  the  newspapers  for  adve 
tisements. 

Although  some  of  the  large  curio  establishments  will  {mm 

and  ship  goods  satisfactorily,  it  is  custoniary,  and  in  son 

instances  desirable,  to  have  purchases  delivered  (packed  i 


CULTURE  PEARLS  cxix 

otherwise)  to  some  reputable  forwarding  agent  to  be  held  in 
ok  storeroom  until  the  traveler  ha»  completed  his  purchases : 
%Q  to  have  the  lot  shipped  at  one  time.  Freight  charges  ana 
Unction  can  be  saved  by  adopting  this  plan.  Unknown  deal- 
en  cannot  always  be  trusted  to  use  intelligent  care  in  the  pack- 
]n|of  fragile  thmgs  easilv  broken  on  a  long  sea  voyage.  A  good 
shipping  agent  usually  knows  the  best,  safest,  quickest,  and 
DM»t  economical  sea  route  (select  some  S.S.  company  known 
tor  its  willingness  to  adjust  claims),  and  in  most  cases  can  save 
the  traveler  both  money  and  time.  Fine  curios  should  aAw&ya 
he  insured  against  theft,  and  shipped,  when  possible,  even  at  a 
shgfat  advance  of  freight,  on  a  passenger  steamer. 

.  Cnlture  Pearls  (yoshokushinju).  The  cultivation  on  a  scien- 
tific basis  of  fine  pearls  (shinju)  is  carried  on  in  a  imique  way 
in  the  Bay  of  Ago,  Shima  Province,  by  Mr.  S,  MihimotOy  the 
owner  of  the  Mihimoto  Pearl  Culture  Farm,  and  the  process  is 
QQusually  interesting.  In  this  beautiful  and  sequestered  stretch 
of  sheltered  sea,  pearls  to  the  value  of  a  king's  ransom  are 
parked  and  harvested  each  year,  to  be  shipped  to  all  parts  of 
the  world  to  take  the  place  of  the  diminishing  supply  of  these 
Mtless  natural  gems.  Here  pearls  can  be  ingeniously  grown 
to  order  in  almost  any  shape  demanded  by  fashion's  devotees. 
It  is  essentially  a  woman's  business,  for  women  plant  and  har- 
^t  them,  that  their  sisters  may  wear  them.  The  Farm  lies  a 
W  miles  S.  of  the  famous  Shrines  of  Ise  (Rte.  35)  in  a  pictur- 
esque region  warmed  by  the  saline  waters  of  the  Kuro^hiwo, 
and  protected  from  shrewd  winds  by  low  promontories  and  a 
iovely,  bay-indented  coast.  Northward  of  the  middle  of  Ago 
^dy  lies  the  small  island  of  Tatokujima,  the  center  of  the 
^iMmoto  enterprise.  A  cluster  of  huts  where  the  oysters  are 
opened  and  the  pearls  sorted,  and  a  smiling  sea  where  they  are 
pown  and  gathered,  give  but  little  idea  of  the  charm  and  value 
of  the  industry.  The  sea  for  50  nautical  miles  around  is  leased, 
and  strewn  along  the  ocean  floor  are  the  margaritiferous  beds. 
The  undertaking  dates  from  1890,  but  it  was  not  until  1898 
that  the  first  pearls  were  gathered  and  marketed.  The  annual 
output  now  is  over  a  miUion  yen.  Several  hundred  persons  are 
employed.    The  pearls  are  sorted  and  mounted  at  the  fine 
M^moto  Pearl  Store  (shinjuya)    at  T6ky6  (comp.  p.   113) 
where  the  traveler  may  see  the  different  formative  processes 
of  pearls  in  the  making,  and  an  extraordinarily  beautiful  collec- 
tion of  mounted  and  unmounted  gems.  The  lover  of  exquisite 
things  should  ask  to  see  the  famous  Gumhai  Serij  or  War  Fan, 
a  copy  (in  fine  gold  and  pearls  —  805  all  told)  of  one  brought 
fiom  Korea  in  the  Middle  Ages.    Permits  (English  spoken) 
may  also  be  obtained  here  to  visit  the  Farm. 

The  method  of  producing  the  pearls  is  simple;  during  Jubf 
and  August  numb^  of  small  stones  are  placed  in  shaYlov?  «si^\» 
'  Ibe  shore,  wbeiv  the  oyster  spawn  is  most  ab\indan\>.  Tbaa 


cxx  CULTURE  PEARLS 

spat  soon  attaches  itself  (by  threads  which  it  secretes)  to  them, 
and  they  are  then  carefuUy  removed  and  parked  in  deeper 
water,  in  beds  prepared  for  them.  At  the  end  of  3  yrs.,  after 
having  been  subjected  to  the  first  operation  in  the  production 
of  the  pearl,  they  are  removed  farther  to  sea,  and  put  into 
water  about  7  fathoms  deep,  where  they  will  not  die  from  cold. 
This  process  consists  merely  of  introducing  into  the  shell,  and 
fixing  it  there,  a  round  bit  of  nacre  to  serve  as  the  cent^  for 
the  fiiiished  gem.  The  morbid  and  abnormal  process  of  cover- 
ing this  with  nacreous  secretions  begins  as  soon  as  the  irritating 
foreign  substance  makes  itself  felt,  and  it  continues  until  it 
ceases  to  cause  further  irritation.  At  the  end  of  about  4  yrs.  so 
many  successive  layers  of  mother-of-pearl  have  been  placed 
upon  the  offending  particle  that  the  pearl  is  formed.  Natural 
laws  reduce  greatly  the  production  of  these.  In  many  instances 
the  inserted  hall  is  ejected;  in  others  the  numerous  enemies  of 
the  oyster  (starfishes,  squid,  borers,  and  several  carnivorous 
gastropods)  make  havoc  with  the  industry.  Chief  amone  the 
evils  is  the  invasion  of  the  oyster-beds  of  what  is  called  the 
OkashiwOf  or  *red  current,'  —  microscopic  organisms  in  such 
numbers  that  the  sea  is  tinted  bv  their  presence.  They  imdo 
the  work  of  years,  and  are  as  aestructive  as  the  mirumo,  a 
species  of  seaweed  which  by  its  luxuriant  growth  covers  the 
beds  and  smothers  the  occupants. 

The  Divers  (ama)  are  women  who  possess  the  ability  to 
remain  submerged  longer  than  men.  They  commence  their 
curious  profession  when  about  14  yrs.  old,  and  spend  the 
greater  part  of  each  year  (from  March  to  Dec.)  in  the  water. 
Very  little  work  is  done  in  Jan.  or  Feb.,  because  of  the  cold. 
The  women  wear  a  special  white  costume  consisting  of  knicker- 
bockers, a  short  skirt,  and  a  blouse.  The  hair  is  twisted  in  a 
tight  knot  on  top  of  the  head,  and  glasses  prevent  the  salt 
water  from  entering  the  eyes.  Each  diver  carries  a  small  tub 
suspended  from  the  waist,  into  which  the  oysters  are  put,  to 
be  later  dumped  into  the  boat  that  takes  them  to  the  fishmg* 
ground.  No  special  outfit  of  weights  or  the  like  is  used;  the 
women  sink  to  the  bottom  and  remain  there  from  2  to  3  inin. 
each  time.  Stories  of  hardy  Amazons  who  can  remain  under 
water  without  air  for  5  min.  should  be  discredited.  Li  tlie 
gathering  season,  in  early  Dec,  when  the  oysters  have  attained 
their  greatest  growth,  3  or  4  experienced  divers  (best  between 
25  and  35  yrs.  of  age)  will  bring  up  a  thousand  or  more  pearl- 
bearing  bivalves  in  the  6-8  hrs.  which  constitute  a  day's  work. 
A  lively  woman  will  bring  up  a  hundred  from  10  fathoms  in  60 
seconds.  Wages  range  from  50  sen  to  ¥2  a  day.  Like  the 
divers  of  Toba  (Rte.  35),  these  women  soon  lose  their  freshness 
and  become  almost  repulsive  —  with  rough  skins  and  hair 
rusted  by  the  brackish  water.  The  menfoll^  prize  them  more 
/or  what  they  earn  than  for  how  they  look,  and  are  quite  poiv* 


CULTUIIE;  FEARia  ezzl 

to  loaf  while  their  spouses  dive  for  the  wherewithal  to 
the  rice-pot  boiling.  Thev  are  interesting  figures  when 
dive  and  splash  and  thracJa  about  in  the  wat^,  uttering 
e  whistling  sounds  as  they  go  under  and  wheaa.  they  come  up. 
oysters  (kaM)  which  they  seek,  and  which  produce  the  cov- 
pearls,  abound  in  Japanese  waters  and  belong  to  the  Av- 
as(Margaritifera  martensii)  and  resemble  closely  the  pearl- 
icing  oyster  {Meleagrina  margarUifera)  of  the  Indian  seas. 
3  Pearls  possess  in  a  marked  degree  all  the  features 
i  finest  natural  gems,  with  the  enchanting  sating  luster, 
he  tender  iridescent  rose  and  faint  blue  sheen  aimed  at 
lever  attained  by  the  makers  of  imitations.  The  shift- 
ay  of  these  exquisitely  delicate  tints  is  much  like  that  of  a 
ess  opal,  which  sends  a  deep  flame  from  its  heart  rather 
from  its  surface.   The  jewels  bear  no  relation  either  in 

texture,  or  worth  to  the  *  Roman  *  *  Venetian,'  or 
lire '  pearls  or  any  of  the  various  false  gems  manu- 
red of  pearl-essence,  whitefish,  or  nacreous  substances, 
e  other  hand,  they  possess  the  matchless  rounded  shape 
[le  chemical  properties  (calcium  carbonate  interstratified 
inimal  substance)  of  true  Oriental,  or  virgin  pearis.  Like 
they  are  easily  dissolved  by  acids  or  destroyed  by  heat. 
,ps  the  only  difference  between  them  and  the  costliest 
u  pearls  is  the  small  flattened  plane  on  one  side,  where 
adhered  to  the  shell  of  the  oyster  that  fashioned  tiiem. 
is  respect  they  resemble  the  well-known  *  perle  houtan ' 
k1  for  Dr.  Louis  BoutaUf  of  Paris),  a  famous  example  of 

is  the  *  Southern  Cross,'  found  in  West  Australia  and 
i  at  £10,000.    They  rank  with  perfectly  symmetrical 

in  every  case  except  in  that  of  making  necklaces  — 

the  flattened  surface  would  show, 
rls  are  not  hoarded  in  Japan,  aa  in  China  and  India,  for 
value  and  beauty,  since  jewelry  was  neither  worn  nor 
in  Old  Japan.  With  the  adoption  of  Western  ways  it  has 
somewhat  into  vogue,  but  not  to  the  same  extent  as  in 
countries.  The  gems  are  therefore  cultivated  chiefly  to 
the  foreign  demand  —  which  grows  daily;  the  annual 
ts  into  the  U.S.  alone  amounting  to  $10,000,000.  The 
oi  the  Japanese  product  is  about  one  fourth  that  of  the 
3arls  of  Ceylon,  Australia,  and  the  Persian  Gulf.  Pearls 
•Id  by  the  pearl-grain,  four  grains  equaling  one  carat, 
value  depends  upon  their  perfection  of  form  (round, 
haped.  or  perfectly  oval  are  the  costliest),  their  luster  or 
t '  ana  purity  of  color  (a  satiny  white  or  bluish-white  is 
and  their  size.  A  five-grain  pearl  may  be  worth  20  times 
ch  as  a  one-grain  pearl.  A  simple  but  effective  way  to 
l^uish  true  pearls  from  imitations  is  to  touch  them  to  the 
b:  the  former  are  always  cold,  while  the  latter  a\)80x\> 
mditotmheeomewBrm. 


\ 


cnai  ROCK-CRYSTALS— JADE 

Rock-CiystalB  {auitthd,  or  aeki^ye  — ' cryatallizeil  water'] 
are  found  in  various  places  in  Japan  (notably  in  Kii  Province), 
and  the  Hemi-preciouB,  Eemi-myHtic  balls  (guisho-lania)  posses 
a  apecial  faacination  tor  the  nativcH,  with  whom  divining  1^, 
roctt-crystak  was  anciently  something  of  an  art.  The  Japanesf 
quartz  excels  the  Chinese  in  clearness  and  trttnspareiioyi  it' 
has  a  hardueHS  of  7  (as  agai:ist  10  of  the  diamond),  a  epeciG(| 
gravity  of  2.65,  and  often  contains  beautiful  little  tufia  of  luiiK> 
Rke  amiantus  —  in  which  case  it  is  called  htna-irisuiahO,  or 
'grass-holding  crystal.'  The  balls  are  polished  with  gaiTiet-< 
sand  of  different  deereea  of  fineness  —  the  best  coming  fnitn 
Kong6-«an,  near  Yoshino,  in  Yamato  Province.  Fine  eped- 
mens  ill  suisko  bring  almost  fubulous  prices  —  one  in  the  J,  F, 
Morgan  collection  now  inNew  York  having  sold  for  £10,000  at 
auction.  The  crystallographer  will  be  interested  in  the  hand*! 
some  ones  contained  in  the  Okura  Prwals  Museum  at  Tok^jrOk^j 
Good  crystals  sometimes  luid  their  way  into  the  curioshop^ 
but  the  traveler  should  be  on  his  guard  against  imitations,  and 
remember  that  a  4-5~inch  ball  of  peerless  quality  may  cook 
mand  thousands  of  yen.  Tb.e  imitations  are  easily  distinguistkn 
by  their  more  or  less  bluish  coruscations,  their  small  condUB> 
tivity  of  heat,  and  by  their  greater  softness.  The  most  valu- 
able amo:^  thci  Buddhist  rosaries  ore  made  of  rock-crystali 
A  GiTstal  in  the  possession  of  the  Mikado  measurea  upward 
of  6  in.  The  most  perfect  (and  valuable)  specimen  in  the  world 
is  perhaps  that  in  the  Museum  of  Fine  Arts,  in  Boston.  It  was 
found  on  a  mt.  in  Eai  Province  in  1876;  the  prism  was  18  in. 
high,  14J  in.  wide,  and  12  in.  thick.  The  cutting  and  polishing 
of  it  was  be^un  in  Dec,  ISSt,  and  completed  in  Jime,  18S1. 
The  finished  sphere,  flawless  and  of  a  remarkable  purity. 
weighs  19  lbs-  and  measures  71  in.  (.185  mm.). 

Tade  (Japanese;  Aisui,'  kingfisher';  Chinese:  /eWsvii, '  king- 
fisher-plumes ')  is  very  popular  in  Japan,  where  much  is  soldi . 
but  none  produced.  As  many  tourists  to  the  Far  East  take 
bits  of  jade  jewehy  home  sa  souvenirs  or  omamenta,  they  majr 
wish  to  remember  that  the  value  of  iade  in  the  eyes  of  tlio' 
Chinese  —  the  greatest  users  of  it  —  depends  chiefly  upon  its 
sonorousness  and  color.  The  3  varieties  of  the  silicate  of 
alumina,  called  jade,  nephrite,  and  jadcite  by  mineralogieU. 
are  all  named  ytik  by  the  Chinese,  who  prize  them  above  w 
the  semi-precious  stones.  Jade  is  a  tough,  compact  stone, 
varying  from  nearly  white  to  dark  green  in  color,  with  a  specific 
gravity  of  from  2.9  to  3,1.  When  freshly  broken  it  is  less  hard 
than  after  a  short  eicposure.  A  greemsh-white  color  (a  fine 
apple-green)  is  the  most  highly  prized  (a  plain  color  of  any 
BDade  being  of  less  value) ,  and  the  costbeet  specimens  an 
tuvagbt  from  yiainan  ilbA  Kholen.  t^ie  nuaaX,  acrton«ni  cq\»«* 
are  grayiab-green  and  dark  grasa-Kiewi-,  \D.\«njflS.'j  '■&  'a 
s<?^rcely  gUmiaciing.  Ita  fracture  is  BpVuAet3'i*l>^^*''™V^y 


THE  JAPANESE  LANGUAGE  cxxiii 

maas,  soni-traiisparent  and  cloudy;  it  scratches  glass  strondy, 
and  can  itself  generally  be  scratched  by  flint  or  quarts;  but 
wfafle  not  excessively  hard  it  is  remarkable  for  toughness.  A 
variety  of  a  dark  green  color  containing  iron  has  t^en  called 
ehloromelanite.  A  spurious  jade  made  in  Germany  is  sold 
extensively  in  the  Far  East.  It  is  often  set  up  in  the  style  of 
Kdd  ring  so  much  in  vogue  with  the  ChinesCj  and  care  is 
neceaanr  to  distinguish  it.  Chrysoprase,  a  vanety  of  trans- 
luc^  chalcedony  of  a  beautiful  apple-green  color,  and  of  a 
luirdness  little  inferior  to  that  of  flint,  is  brought  from  Russia, 
apd  is  so  like  the  finest  and  most  highly  prized  jade  (but  con- 
siderably cheaper)  that  not  a  little  of  it  is  palmed  off  on  unsus- 
pecting travelers  as  the  true  article.  A  greenstone  (triclinic 
feldspar  and  hornblende)  found  in  Japan  bears  a  faint  resem- 
blance to  coarse  jadeite,  but  no  attempt  is  made  to  deceive 
the  unwary.  Beads  of  it  strung  on  long  strings  can  be  bought 
at  Ekiosluma  and  other  places  K>r  50-80  8en.  Constant  watch- 
fubesB  is  needed  to  prevent  being  swindled  when  buying  jade 
;  either  in  Japan  or  China. 

n.  The  Japanese  Language 

The  Japanese  Language,  with  upward  of  66,000  words 
(a  iHg  percentage  of  wmch  are  Cninese),  belongs  to  the 
Turanian  or  Tartar  family,  and  like  its  cognate  tongues. 
Korean,  Manchu,  and  Chinese,  is  agglutinative  (as  opposed 
to  inflective  or  inflectional  languages).  It  has  no  relationship 
with  the  tongues  of  Europe,  but  like  all  agglutinative  lan- 
guages (of  which  Turkish  is  an  example),  the  verb  comes  at 
the  end  of  the  sentence  and  after  the  object  which  it  governs. 

The  want  of  inflection  to  diatin^iii^  gender,  number,!  and  case,  as  well 
as  in  the  case  of  the  verb  to  distinguiah  tense  and  mood,  is  replaced  by 
words  which  follow  the  ptrincipal  word  as  postpositionB  or  afl^es.   Their  use 
makes  the  language  decidedly  difficult,  and  is  only  a  partial  equivalent  for 
the  wealth  secured  to  a  tongue  by  inflections.  There  is  no  article ;  the  pro- 
nouns and  numerals  are  nouns;  and  in  these  there  is  no  distinction  of 
gender  or  number.  There  are  in  reality  but  two  parts  of  speech,  the  verb 
and  the  noun.  The  true  adjectives  and  the  adverbs  are  a  species  of  neuter 
Terb.  The  nominative  is  formed  by  the  affix  wa  or  ga^  the  genitive  by  no^ 
the  dative  by  ni,  the  accusative  by  o.  The  verb  has  only  the  three  principal 
tenses,  present,  past,  and  future.  There  are  no  diphthongs  proper. 

The  peculiar  construction  of  the  language  is  very  pussling  to  most  for- 
eigimB,  the  grammar  being  imique  and  beset  with  difficulties.  Not  only 
does  it  appear  twisted  and  topsy-turvy,  but  what  is  plain  sense  to  the 
JaiMuieae  smacks  strongly  of  nonsense  to  the  stranger.  When  the  former 
to  say,  *  What  is  this  made  of  7  '  he  phrases  it  thus :  Kore  wa,  nan  de  de- 


*■  The  pluralixation  of  certain  words  used  in  the  Guidebook  has  been 

iry  for  clearness:  Daimifda  has  been  used  instead  of  the  more  correct 

t;  Bhdffuns  for  ahdgun,  etc.    To  preserve  sense,  *  temple '  has  often 

added  to  its  Japanese  equivalent  ji;  '  mountain '  to  yama;  *  river '  to 

^  etc  ffince  no  hard-and-fast  rule  exists  relative  to  hyphenated  words, 

Am  vritor  has  in  many  cases  followed  the  lead  of  the   compUeT  of  t\iQ 
<Betioiiary  and,  to  save  space,  h&a  eliminated  hyphens  whete 


oxdv  THE  JAPANESE  LANGUAGE 

InUorinuui^  which,  tranalated  literally,  reada : — *  This  as  for,  what  by  < 
uatixic  is? '  '  How  far  are  you  going? '  —  Doko  made  o  ide  ni  narima 
becomes:  '  Where  till,  honorable  exit  to  becomes? '  *  What  is  this 
in  Japanese? '  is,  Kono  mono  xoa,  Nihon-go  de  nan  to  m6»hima»A  k 
*  This  thing,  as  for,  Japan  language  by,  what  that  say? '  '  There 
money:'  Kane  ga  nai^  or,  'Money  is  n't.'  *I  am  sorry  for  3/^our  sa 
kinodoku  sama;  *  Honorable  poison-of-the  spirit,  Mr.!'  Periphrasif 
conspicuous  by  its  presence  as  trite  language  is  by  its  absence. 
.  O^er  difficulties  abound.  Among  the  mgher  classes  a  stilted  etii 
has  developed  almost  inconceivable  complexity  in  the  language, 
system  has  been  evolved  that  would  require  many  years  of  train: 
master.  The  Mikado  and  other  exalted  personages  employ  expre 
forbidden  to  the  commonalty,  which  also  has  peculiarities  of  its 
There  is  also  a  sort  of  sex-differentiation  of  language,  and  educated  v 
make  use  of  words  and  phrases  not  employed  by  men.  For  almost  < 
thing  there  are  several  different  words  in  Japanese,  and  others  in  CI 
Anonei,  an  exclamatory  expletive,  is  much  used  by  Tdkyd  people  in  fa 
conversation,  and  is  meant  to  call  attention  (like, '  Say! '  or '  Look  H( 
Sd  desa  ('  It  IS  so '),  or  So  desH  ka!  Q  Indeed  !  *)  is  the  common  expresf 
surprise.  Do  itashimaahlte,  *  Don't  mention  it,'  is  equally  common; 
also  SMkata  ga  nai,  '  It  can't  be  helped.' 

The  language  in  its  different  phases  is  so  difficult  fo: 
Japanese  themselves  to  learn  correctly  that  English  seems 
in  comparison,  and  they  acquire  this  quickly  and  well. 
Francis  Xavier  is  reported  to  have  said  of  Japanese  that  i1 
an  invention  of  *a  condliabule  of  devils  to  torture  the  fait! 
Be  this  as  it  may,  the  traveler  who  will  devote  a  little 
each  day  to  the  study  of  it  will  soon  be  able  to  get  along, 
he  will  find  that  it  possesses  compensatory  advantages  ] 
liar  to  itself.  A  knowledge  of  it,  even  though  slight,  is  a  ; 
port  to  the  confidence  of  the  people,  who  remove  one  o 
greatest  stumbling-blocks  in  the  acquisition  of  any  foi 
language,  by  never  laughing  at  mistakes  one  may  mal 
speaking.  The  pronunciation  is  relatively  easy,  and  tc 
ear  of  the  stranger  quite  uniform.  .The  vowels  have  practi 
the  phonetic  values  of  those  of  Spanish  or  Italian,  and  the  c< 
nants  those  of  EngMi.  When  written  in  Rdmaji^  the  word 
in  vowels  Mid  have  a  straightforward  and  friendly  look  like  1 
of  English  or  Castilian.  There  are  no  difficult  consom 
combinations  such  as  one  finds  often  in  Slavonic  and  i 
tongues,  and  the  intonation  is  pleasing.  The  simplicity  o 
pronunciation  makes  it  easy  for  the  stranger  with  a 
phrasebook  (about  ¥1  in  any  foreign  bookstore)  to 
about,  for  some  of  them  show  the  figurative  pronuncia 
and  are  supposed  to  contain  the  phrases  one  usually  n 
Albeit  T6ky6  is  supposed  to  possess  a  distinctive  dialect, 
other  districts  to  afford  striking  differences  in  speech  (lik< 
Nambu  dialect  of  Aomori;  that  of  Kagay  etc.);  and  aJth 
the  Edokko  (who  often  regard  themselves  in  the  same 
light  as  the  Parisians)  smile  at  the  Osaka  man  who  apei 
metropolitan  twang,  the  stranger  unaware  of  slight  diffen 
will  fmd  little  or  no  difficulty  in  getting  along  anywhere  oi 
Main  Island.  The  same  appUes  also  to  EyushQ  and  1 
barring  the  Ainu  settlements  of  the  latter  island. 


a  compounds,  such  as  steamship  (jd-ki-»en),  railway 
!fl),  photograph  ('copy-truth' — Bhaskin),  etc.  Jap- 
rords  do  not  always  lend  themselves  to  the  formation  of 
compound  wprds;  and  in  this  way  Chinese  helps  it  out 
>8  Greek  or  Latin  is  drawn  upon  by  the  En(^h  tongue. 
.bor  and  difficulty  of  learning  Japanese  la  incre^ed 
lualy  by  the  admixture  of  Chinese  ideographs,  for  when 
iced  onginally,  these  were  not  kept  distiDOt,  so  that  in 
itten  OT  printed  text  of  to-day  some  are  r^arded  as 
nhlle  others  symbolize  sounds. 

LOW  s  ChlneH  charaoteT  involves  a  knowledge  of  itfl  Mimda,  <rf 
tare  may  b«  Hveral,  ftud  of  its  msiuuDEs,  ol  whioh  bIbo  there  ntftv 
than  one.  The  latest  autJioriutive  distionuy  (Che  KOi  Jilm) 
7,216  diffeient  Chinese  ohamiUn,  of  which  some  3000  am  in 
Qie.  A  JapaneaesehoUrwoakl  probably  know  0000  of  them,  uid  an 
man  but  a  very  few  hundred:  what  is  called  «  ^hirh  '  sa*  Af  tvhA 
■    a  TiJkya     " 


nji#  ldeoKra[Aig  they  oymbolise  natural  objeoti  by  their  images  or 
dd  by  the  assodalion  of  Idea*,  onomatopalia,  and  demonitrative 
lad,  lone  fliuratiTe  and  illuiTe,  some  ohaiaater*  may  have  one  oi 
naaniiic.  so  that  it  ii  diffieolt  to  oatah  the  teal  """^"B  in  eaoh  cub, 
jifioatiDnt  and  uses  being  also  different.  Tbay  are  therefore  lull  of 
taaea  ai  iDstrumenta  of  the  eiprearioD  ot  thoiuht.  It  takes  'ytan 
oa  and  creat  diHsaioe  for  the  eye  to  diaUnguiih  the  Chinese  and 
I  letters  and  ohuaoten.  and  for  the  hand  to  imitate  them  easily 
lodia-Ink  brush.  But  in  this  nsy  the  eye  soquirei  great  faoility  in 

-" '--  ' ' ■"-,  snd  the  hand  the  daitMity 

■  ■'    ■       ■  }(  the  Js 


Ba  higUy  el 

laper,  palatea  on  exquisite  poroelain.  q 
rhronie.  they  make  anBularly  si"  " 


s  ol  theii  lansuage  in  a  baautihil, 
—     ""--n  the»  are  skiilfully  drawn 


Gzzvi  THE  JAPANESE  LANGUAGE 

the  euniTe.  As  a  rule  cfaildren  learn  about  500  of  the-  Chinese  ideoi 
and.  many  do  not  acquire  more  when  they  «ow  up.  For  this  rea 
newspapers  and  books  written  for  popular  reading  there  are.generaUy 
by 'the  side  of  the  Chinese  characters  their  Japanese  sounds  or  meal 
kana — a  necessary  additicMi  to  insure  an  understanding  of  them 
ability  of  the  Japanese  to*  read  the  Chinese  characters  enables  tl 
peoples  to  communicate  easily  in  writing.  They  cannot,  however, 
stand  the  spoken  langua^^e,  for,  although  the  Chinese  root-character 
remained  the  same,  their  pronunciation  has,  under  the  influence 
euphonious  Japanese  idiom,  underf^one  a  remarkable  metamorphosis 
guttural  sounds  of  the  Chinese  having  wholly  disappeared.  *  Thus,  U 
Chinese,  tJie  Jai>anese  has  ceased  to  distinguish  many  abstract  wo 
their  pronunication,  and  has  kept  an  astonishing  number  of  home 
whose  various  meanings  can  easily  be  recognised  by.  the  context  ai 
order  of  the  words,  and  in  some  cases  by  the  written  characters.  Li 
the  language  is  a'  combination  of  two  different  idioms,  of  whie 
descends  from  the  old  Japanese,  the  Yamato  kotoba  (language  of  Yf 
or  Japan),  the  other  from  the  Chinese.  It  has  been  compared  to  th( 
lish  composed  from  Teutonic  and  Romance  sources.  As  the  stock  of 
employed  by  a  cultivated  Englishman  shows  a  higher  percenti 
Romance  than  of  Teutonic  words,  so,  too,  the  better-educated  Ja] 
prefers  to  make  use,  at  all  events  in  writing,  of  the  Chinese  portion 
conglomerate  speech.  But  these  two  elements  of  the  language  of  « 
thoroughly  as  they  are  intermingled  and  fused  in  oral  intercourse,  pn 
in  writing,  their  original  character,  in  so  far  that  the  words  of  C 
origin  are  reproduced  in  their  old  root-signs,  and  those  of  Japanese 
in  ihe  syllabic  writing.' 

The  Japanese  possessed  no  letters  or  written  characters 
the  introduction  of  certain  features  of  Chinese  civilizati* 
the  5th  cent.  'The  Chinese  and  Japanese  languages  1 
radically  different,  the  Chinese  characters  could  not  be 
at  once,  and  it  was  by  a  gradual  process  that  the  present  a 
bet  was  evolved.  The  Chinese  use  ideographs  to  repr 
words,  mostly  monosyllabic.  On  the  introduction  of  [Gh 
literature  into  Japan  these  signs  were  made  use  of  in  two  i 
one  as  signs  of  sounds;  the  other  as  signs  of  words,  as  ii 
original,  but  calling  them  by  their  Japanese  equival 
Gradually,  in  using  them  as  sounds,  a  method  develope 
that  certain  characters  were  always  used  for  parti 
Japanese  sounds.  The  native  wav  of  expressing  these  soui 
wnting  changed  with  time,  so  th^t  after  the  lapse  of  cent 
they  differed  materially  from  theitpriginals,  and  gave  ri 
two  sets  of  characters  for  the  Japanese  alphabet.'  (1 
Kihuchi.)  The  celebrated  scholar  Kobo-Daishi  (p.  611), 
spent  many  years  in  China  and  who  knew  Chinese  as  W( 
Sanskrit  and  Pali  (writes  Dr.  Rein),  introduced  in  the  9th 
the  katcp-kanaf  the  Japanese  syllabic  writing,  selectini 
Chinese  ideo^ams  which  he  simplified  and  adopted  as 
for  as  many  syllables,  to  which  a  48th  sign  was  added  fo 
final  and  nasal  n  of  many  Sinico- Japanese  words;  for  this 
kana  served  also  for  the  transliteration  of  Chinese  signs  I 
those  who  did  not  understand  them.  The  Japanese  al|il 
which  thus  came  into  use  is  also  called,  after  its  first 
syllables,  I^ro-ha.  Besides  the  simple  angular  and^quad 
e^gna  of  the  kata-kana  there  gradually  came  inUH'^e  (a 


THE  JAPANESE  LANGUAGE  ezzvii 

SOD)  a  cunive  writing,  the  hiroF-kana  (hira  means  flat, 
■nooth),  in  which  the  comers  are  rounded  off,  and  the  lines 
wnneeted  with  one  another.  This  hircL-kana  is  the  writing  of 
tte  people,  while  the  educated  and  official  classes  employ 
ilBdiidvely  or  predominantly  the  Chinese  ideograms. 

Tks  name  kata4Ba$M  is  derived  from  Jkoto,  *  the  half  of  a  pair,'  karit '  bor- 
■iv'aiidiia, 'name.*  They  are  syllables  which  were  borrowed  froin  the 
Wni  of  Chinese  names,  or  ideograms.  There  are  4  styles  of  kana  charao- 
tBR  manuo,  or  antique;  hentait  or  modified;  hira,  or  plain;  and  Axmo, 
itMrt.  TfaiiB  manuo  and  hentai  styles  are  limited  in  use  and  are  em- 
ri^nd  hy  antique  and  classie  writers.  The  hira-kana  (also  ascribed  to 
KtM)aiUhi),  thoush  much  more  widely  used  than  the  kata-kana  (which  is 
inconveni^it  for  writins  in  a  running  hand),  is  yet  less  generally 
Mod  there  is  a  tendency  to  displace  the  former  by  the  latter. 
_  independent  letters,  fulfill  each  their  function,  so  that  a  knowl- 
lof  one  of  them  can  be  recognised  as  forming  the  rudiments  of  primary 
mmotk.  As  the  kana  characters  are  phonetic  thejr  can  be  written  Just  as 
tt|f  are  sounded  or  pronounced,  and  being  rhythmic  (the  47  letters  form  a 
MU  MkDed  Irohof^utat  known  to  almost  every  child) ,  though  few  in  number, 
m^  eaa  express  oomplioated  ideas  Mid  can  represent  a  great  variety  of 
Msoh.  They  are  aimple  in  their  composition,  and  can  be  learned  with  httle 
wmi.  Hie  studsnt  of  Japanese  oiten  meets  with  the  Iroha  in  ingenious 
■d  bneiful  M>plications,  one  bein^  the  Iroha-datoe,  or  47  popular  sayings, 
Mb  of  which  oommMices  witii  a  different  ^Uabic  sound. 

The  foreigner^  anxious  to  gain  a  quick  knowledge  of  Japan-  * 
00  without  havmg  to  undertake  the  laborious  task  of  learning 
to  read  and  ¥nite  the  native  symbols,  has  recourse  usually  to 
tauMHterated  Japanese  as  expressed  phonetically  under  the 
mtem  adopted  by  the  Roman  Ktoai,  or  Romanization 
aoaety, — whose  aim  is  to  replace  with  roman  letters  the 
ideograms  and  tokens  employed  in  the  Chinese  and  Japanese 
l^es  of  writing.  This  will,  however,  give  him  linguistic 
fuility  only,  as  the  newspapers  and  most  of  the  books  are 
printed  in  Cninese  and  kana;  only  a  few  dictionaries,  phrase- 
books,  signs,  and  an  occasional  novel  being  printed  in  the 
nman  types. 

The  RSniA^  alphabet  employs  22  of  the  letters  used  in  English,  I  and  o 
kninf  no  corresponding  sounds  in  Japanese,  and  q  being  disregarded.  The 
■Mbndged  dictionary  printed  in  Rdmaji  gives  an  inkling  of  the  sound  of 
the  Mp^esa  language  by  showing  that  about  2160  words  begin  with  the 
fatter  a;  1960  with  h;  20(X),  c;  140v.,  d;  600,  e;  1080.  /;  1440.  g;  5160.  h;  2960.  i; 
1800,  i:  13,600,  k;  4880,  m;  2800,  n;  2160,  o;  less  than  100.  p;  1440,  r;  10, 
MO  «;  5560,  t;  1640,  u;  520,  vo;  2540.  y;  and  800.  z.'—  C  is  never  used  in  its 
kiid  sound,  or  0  in  its  soft  sound.  The  vowels  a.  «,  t,  o.  u.  though  supposed 
ts  here  only  one  soimd  each,  are  often  shorter  and  flatter  than  the  rule 
wmld  indicate;  unless  marked  with  the  sign  of  long  quantity  they  are 
Mnilljr  pnmounoed  full  and  clear  as  in  Spanish  and  German. 

a  is  inonounced  like  a  in  father  (as  Shiba  —  she'-bah). 
M  "  **  "     oy  in  wioy  (as  Af  ei;i  —  may'-jee). 

<  ••  •*  **     %  in  machine  (bs  Manji  —  mahn'-jee). 

m"  "  "    oinoA  (as^ofce  — koh'-bay). 

u  "  "  "    t»  in  rule  (as  Sutnida  —  soo-me'-dah). 

Ib^UblsB  an  not  unfrequently  contracted,  and  the  vowels,  when  a  hori- 
il  line  is  placed  over  them,  become  long;  6  then  has  the  sound  of  o  in 
■ad  ft  that  of  oo  in  moon.  This  is  supposed  to  be  the  only  stress  used  in. 
jmv^t  but  tiie  quick  ear  will  detect  a  slight  tonic  accent  in  many 
inurng.  in  diffeireD#  looalitiea.  The  ien^ening  of  the  sound  oiten 


cxxviii  THE  JAPANESE  LANGUAGE 

|{hre8  a  different  meaning  to  the  word,  and  corresponds  in  a  way 
inflection  in  the  Cantonese  tongue,  as:  ddto,  pleaise;  dozd^  a  godc 
storehouse.  The  long  d,  e,  and  i  are  seldom  used,  except  in  interim 
When  suclk  sounds  occur  they  are  usually  represented  by  doubli 
letters,  as  aa,  and  n.  When  two  voweU  come  together,  as  at,  au,  «u, 
they  should  be  pronounced  separately.  The  vow^  %  is  usually  short  ai 
loses  its  sound,  as  hUo  (man),  ahita  (tongue),  which  very  nearly  hi 
sound  of  h'to  (or  shtoh)  and  ahta.  The  letter  u  is  often  mute,  parti 
in  a  word  like  Haktuan  (pronounced  Haksan).  In  the  Rdmaji  s 
mute  vowels  are  often  shown  with  a  curved  line  over  them,  as:  I 
Fis  not  a  labio-dental  as  in  English;  the  sound  is  made  by  letti 
breath  escape  softly  through  the  lips.  S  before  a,  e,  o,  and  u  (as 
»o,  and  »u)  is  pronounced  as  in  English.  In  the  syllable  ahi,  the  ah 
nounced  nearly  as  in  English,  or  like  the  German  ach  and  not 
simple  «.  The  correct  pronunciation  is  something  between  a  and  ac 
sound  with  an  appended  aspirate  for  the  h).  In  the  syllable  cAi  tl 
sounded  as  in  Ehighsh  and  as  the  German  tach,  and  in  ji  the  j  is  sound 
something  between  da  and  dach.  R  is  commonly  pronounced  as  in  i 
In  some  places  it  has  a  rolling  sound,  while  in  others  it  almost  vergei 
In  many  localities  in  Kifuahu,  and  in  some  places  in  the  N.  part 
Main  Iriand,  r  is  pronounced  with  difficulty,  or  sometimes  never  i 
O  has  a  haid  sotmd  at  the  beginning  of  a  word,  nearly  through 
whole  Empire.  In  some  places  it  has  a  sound  like  ng  in  among  an 
when  in  the  middle  of  a  word.  Thus  Nagasaki  is  pronounced  Nangn 
key;  kago,  kang'-oh,  etc.  Y  is  pronounced  like  the  German  j,  thov 
throughout  the  whole  series  of  syllables  beginning  with  it,  for  yt 
*  by  its  character  not  distinguished  from  i,  and  ye  but  slightly  so  from 
two  letters  y  and  %  are  often  used  interchangeably.  Z  is  usually  pron 
as  a  soft  a.  The  T  in  words  like  Tauruga  is  often  silent,  as  aoo-roong 

The  phonetic  transliteration  of  the  language  has 
Inconveniences^  as  at  best  it  represents  merely  the  shad 
the  thing,  while  the  ideograms  are  its  substance.  I 
absence  of  fixed  methods,  individuals  undertake  orthogi 
reforms  with  the  result  that  a  great  diversity  is  manifest 
spelling  of  different  words.  The  common  tendency  is  to 
nate  and  condense.  The  material  progress  of  the  Jap 
during  the  last  few  decades  has  had  a  singularly  cond( 
and  shortening  effect  on  the  spoken  language,  which  ii 
state  of  constant  transition.  Those  writers  who  have  b 
away  from  the  old  traditions  seem  to  be  consciously  or  u 
sciously  searching  for  a  new  style  suitable  to  the  age.  D 
the  manifold  advantages  of  the  Rdmaji^  only  a  very  few 
sands  out  of  the  50  million  Japanese  read  it,  and  when 
seek  to  express  wofds  after  the  system,  they  frequently 
letters,  chiefly  consonants.  It  thus  befalls  that  in  m 
writing  Gwaimushd  (Foreign  Office)  is  usually  s 
Gaimushd:  shiwo  is  often  shio;  kwan  is  usually  kan;  kw 
kaisha;  kVannon,  kannon;  midzu,  mizu;  Shidzuoka,  Shii 
and  so  on.  What  the  traveler  will,  therefore,  often  co: 
mistakes  in  spelling  are  merely  idiosyncracies.  While 
writers  use  the  hyphen  for  joining  words,  others  leave  i 
Students  who  seek  words  in  a  Romaji  dictionary,  and  ai 
able  to  find  them,  may  often  have  Ught  thrown  on  the  si 
by  referring  to  liigori,^  So  rapidly  is  the  language  cha 


'  IfigoA,  or  the  modification  of  impure  syllables,  is  employ 
in  the  Japaneae;  the  law  governing  its  use  is  that  the  in*^' 


*-i 


THE  JAPANESE  LANGUAGE  cxxix 

tfatt  a  grammar  written  20  3rrs.  ago  is  now  considered  pedantic 
is  aome  quarters.  The  tendency  in  T5ky5  b  to  swallow  ter- 
nmiations  tund  ioin  words  as  the  French  do.  —  particularly 
vhen  the  sepona  word  begins  with  a  g.  Students  of  the  l&Dr 
gnage  are  often  perplexed  by  the  refusisd  of  certain  squeamish 
ponoDs  to  use  words  possessing  a  double  meaning,  such  as  ski, 
iriddi  means /our  and  also  death  —  distasteful  in  its  suggestive- 
im.  likewise  shichif  the  accepted  word  for  aeveUf  but  which 
mciiiB  deaUirdoor,  Nana,  the  more  polite  term  for  the  number, 
■  med  by  many. 

Hie  honorifics  so  often  referred  to  by  writers  are  not  as 
pudiloquent  as  thev  might  seem,  and  they  usually  serve  as 
1  polite  form  of  address  to  which  cultiured  Japanese  are  so 
aoBQBtomcKl  that  no  special  note  is  taken  of  them.  Tliey 
Aould  not  be  applied  to  one's  self.  Nor  should  the  traveler 
tiks  too  literally  the  native  custom  of  deprecating  everything 
kpmtaej  as  such  expressions  are  usually  as  airy  as  Spanish 
nmplhnents  —  and  as  meaningless.  The  words  Ijin-san, 
vfaidb  travders  hear  so  often  from  the  lips  of  children,  though 
tt««j"^g  '  forei^  barbarian  '  in  its  broadest  sense,  is  meant 
Betely  to  qualify  one  as  a  foreigner.  Country-folks  usually 
ay  Gwairkokurjinf  or  '  outside-country  man.'  Ketqjin,  *  hairy 
fanigoer/  is  used  in  a  contemptuous  sense. 

TSd  traveler  may  like  to  remember  that  the  curious  and 
inelegant  jargon  current  along  the  China  coast,  and  not  inaptly 
fldled  '  broken  china,'  is  not  used  in  Japan,  as  the  Japanese 
who  sets  himself  the  task  of  learning  English  usuallv  does  it 
ooeptionally  well.   Even  some  coolies  speak  English  with  a 
fadhty  not  at  all  flattering  to  the  linguistically  deficient 
AnslorSaxon,  who  cherishes  the  hollow  belief  that  as  English 
wilTsome  day  become  the  universal  language  he  need  make  no 
tSoTt  to  learn  any  other.  While  some  natives  during  the  learn- 
ing stage  speak  English  in  a  clipped  manner,  eliminating  arti- 
des  and  prepositions,  and  employing  the  infinitives  of  verbs 
inst^Ml  of  the  tenses,  their  speech  bears  no  resemblance  to  the 
droll  pu^^n-English  of  the  Chinese  littoral.   There  is,  in  fact, 
no  Lingua  Franca  deserving  of  the  name  in  Japan. 

A  speaking  knowledge  of  the  numerals  shown  hereinafter 
will  be  foimd  useful  in  many  cases.  The  menus  in  hotels  and 
restaurants  often  have  numbers  opposite  the  Japanese  names 
of  dbhes,  and  in  the  treaty  ports  houses  are  often  known  by 
mimben  rather  than  by  the  names  of  the  occupants. 

'A,  1^  «.  te,  <»  t)  of  an  independent  word  —  especially  of  a  noun  —  changes 
into  the  corresponding  sonant  0',  &•  i7f  't  or  d)  when  the  word  is  used  as  the 
MBond  member  of  a  compound,  as:  ryori-Jaya,  "  an  eating-house  " :  from 
ffoK,  '*  cookery ,"  and  Chaya,  "  a  tea-house  ";  yane-BunCt  "  a  houae-boat/* 
tan  ysiMt  '*a  roof,"  and  Fune,  "  a  vessel,"  etc.' 


JAPANESE  VOCABULARY 


Above,  ue  ni. 
After,  no  nochi  ni. 
Afterward,  nochi  ni. 
All;  whole,  mina. 
Also,  yaJiari.     ^ 
Among,  uchi  n%. 
At,  ni. 

Become,  (to)  ni  naru. 
Before,  no  mae  ni. 
Behind,  no  uahiro  ni. 
Beneath,  shUa  ni. 
Besides,  no  hoka  ni. 
Between,  no  aida  ni. 
Beyond,  no  taki  ni. 
Big,  6kii, 

Bm  of  fare,  kondaie. 
Black,  kuroi. 
Blue,  aoi ;  ai. 
Boat,  fune ;  kobune. 
Boil  (water),  wakatu. 
Box,  hako. 
Boy,  otoko  no  ko. 
Bread,  pan. 
Breakfast,  asa-han. 
Bridge,  haahi  ;  ba$hi. 
Broad,  hiroi. 
Brown,  kuri-iro. 
Busy,  iaogaahii. 
Button,  botan. 
Buy  (to),  kau. 
By,  ni ;  de. 

Call  (to),  yohu. 
Can  (able),  dekiru. 
Carry  (to),  kakobu. 
Cat,  neko. 

Catch  ^to),  UHkamaeru. 
Chair,  mu. 
Charcoal,  »umi. 
Child,  kodotno, 
China,  Shina. 
Cigar,  maki-tabako. 
Cigarette,     kami-tnaki' 

tabako. 
Clean,  kirei  na. 
Clever,  rikd  na. 
Clock  (or  watch),  tokei. 
Clothes,  kimono. 
Cloud,  kumo. 
Coal,  t^eitan. 
Coat;  overcoat,  uwagi, 
CofiFee,  kdhi. 
Cold,  Uumetai. 
Cold  weather,  aamui. 
Color,  iro. 
Comb,  kiUhi. 
Come  (to),  kuru. 
Consul,  rydji. 
Consulate,  rydjikvan. 
Cool,  tunuhii. 
CorJuorew,  iuehi^uki. 


Japanese  VocabuUry 

Cotton,  mofnen. 
Crab,  kani. 
Crape,  chirimen. 
Crowd,  6tei. 
Cry  (to),  naku. 
Cup,  chawan. 
Curtain,  mado-kake. 
Custom-house,  teikwan. 

Damp,  Bhimeppoi. 
Dance  (to),  odoru. 
Dangerous,  obuwii. 
Dark,  kurai. 
Daughter,  muvikme. 
Dawn,  yo-ake. 
Day,  hi. 
Daytime,  hiru. 
Dear  (hi^h),  tdkai. 
Deck  (ship's),  kampan. 
Deep,  f&kai.^ 
Dentist,  ha-iaha. 
Devil,  oni. 
Diarrhea,  geri. 
Dictionary,  jibiki;  jiaho. 

Die  (to),  ahinuru. 

DifiFerent,  betau  no. 

Difficult,  mtuntkathii. 

Dining^foom,  ahokuma. 

Dinner,  ban-meahi  ;  yu- 
ahoku. 

Dirty,  kitanai. 

Disease,  byoki. 

Dish,  aara  ;  bon. 

Dislike  (to),  kirau. 

Do  (to),  auru ;  itaau. 

Dog,  inu ;  chin. 

Door,  to ;  mon. 

Down,  ahimo ;  ahita. 

Downfall,  horobi. 

Downward,  ahita  ni. 

Drawer,  hiki-daahi. 

Dreary,  uUoahii. 

Drink  (to),  notnu. 

Drop  (to),  ochiru. 

Dust,  gomi  ;  chiri. 

Duty  (custom's),  tei. 

Ear,  mimi;  (of  com),  ho. 
Earth,  taHichi. 
Earthquake,  jiahin. 
East,  higaahi ;  t6. 
Easy,  yaaui ;  tayaaui. 
Eat  (to),  taberu. 
End,  ahimai;  otoari. 
Einvelope,  jdbukuro. 
Even,  demo;  aae. 
Ever,  itau-made  mo. 
Every,  goto  ni. 
Everywhere,   doko  nite 

mo. 
Except,  hoka^ni. 
Eye,  m« ;  manaibo. 


Face,  kao  ;  («iira. 
Fall  (to),  ochiru. 
Fan,  6gi ;  aensu. 
Fare,  chin ;  chinaen. 
Fast,  hayaku. 
Father,  chichi. 
Feel  (to),  oboeru. 
Fever,  netau. 
Few,  aUkunai. 
Fill  (to),  mitaaeru. 
Find  (to),  au  ;  ataru. 
Fine     (choice),     hotoii 

rippa  na. 
Finder,  yubi. 
Finish  (to),  ahimau. 
Fire,  hi;  kwaji. 
Fire-arm,  teppd. 
First-rate,    dai-\chiban^ 

no. 
Flea,  nomi. 
Floor,  yuka. 
Flower,  hana. 
Fly  (insect),  hai;  dbu,  • 
Follow  (to),  tauite  iku. 
Foot,  aahi. 
For,  tame  ni. 
Foreign,  guoai. 
Foreigner,  gvoaikokujin. 
Forget  (to),  leaaureru,. 
Fork    (pronged),   niku* 

aaahi. 
From,  kara  ;  yori. 
Front,  omote. 
Fruit,  mizu-kwaahi. 
Full,  ippai ;  mitturu. 

Garden,  nivoa ;  k6en, 
Germany,  Doitau. 
Get  (to),  uru;  uktru. 
Girl,  muaHme. 
Give  (to),  yarn. 
Glad,  ureahii. 
Glass,  garaau  ;  biidoro. 
Glove,  tebukuro. 
Go  (to) ,  iku  :  yukii. 
Go  down,  kudaru. 
Go  up,  noboru. 
Go  with,  tomonau. 
Good,  yoroahii  ;  yoi. 
Great,  6kii. 
Green,  am ;  midori. 
Guarantee,  ukeai. 
Guest,  kyaku. 
Guidebook,  ddchiiki. 

Hair,  ke ;  kami. 
Half,  han ;  hambun^ 
Hand,  te. 

Handkerchief,  hanketM. 
Harbor,  minato. 
Hard,  katai. 
Hat,  bdahi;  ahappo. 


JAltOnaE 'TOCABUUBT 


dWM.      iMj-Mw/nW 


Moonlicbt,  Iruki'ttkari. 

Mon,  inoUo ,-  mr ''~ 

MoffquitDp  kit. 

Mduh.  Aaloitwnmimi, 

Mouth.  iiucAi. 

Move  (to),  woiu;  nf^ 

Much.ioi 

Mucilaac,  narf . 
Muflk,  koya4ht. 
Mud,  Aire. 
Muddy,  ttioMU. 

Muojr,  MtW  M.    : 


JAPANESE  VOCABULARY 


Mulberry,  kuwa:  kii 
Mune.  oaku ;  haj/tuhi 


JAPANESE  VOCABULARY 


cxxxiii 


Stand  (to),  taUu, 

Star,  ha»h%. 

Stieky,  fubai. 

Stone,  iahi. 

Stop  (to),  towutru. 

Storm,  anMJk«. 

Straight,  mattaugu. 

Strangely,  ayoBhiku. 

Stranger,  $hvranai  hito. 

fltdng,  tto;  nawa. 

Binng,  teuyoi. 

Striy  (to),  manabu. 

I^nd,  (i<m  na. 

muttatd. 

n,  kt;  nidkmn. 

Simii^t,  Mnala. 

Sqnwr,  yfi-mesAt. 

Siraet  amot ;  umai. 

Smetiieart,  kimv-iri. 

Swim  (to),  oyoffu. 

Ban^ta^tka  naru, 

%90tdtkatana. 

tihlbtUukue, 
Tibie-«loth,  handai- 
tkiki. 

fuk,by9. 
Tike  (to),  torn. 
Talk  (to),  haruuu. 
M,  $n-Uikai. 
Ttate,  ti^i;  ajitoa. 
Than,  t/ori. 
That,  9ore;  ane. 
Them,  karera  wo. 
Then,  <ono  toA;i. 
There,  achi;  achira. 
They,  Jbare-ra  ;  aore. 
Thief,  dorobd. 
Tling,  mono. 
Think  (to),  omou. 
This,  kare  ;  kono. 
Though,  keredomo. 
Thread,  ifd. 
Through,  <dru. 
Thumb,  oya-i/ii6i. 
Tide,  «Aio. 
Tiffin,  Atru-i70«en. 
Tight,  katai. 
Tightly,  ibotoAni. 
TCmode. 
Time,  toki. 
To, n»;  ye;  made. 
Together,  iathd  ni. 
Tongue,  ahita, 

Too,ttt9ini. 
Tooth,  ha  ;  me. 
Tooth-brush,  yoji. 
Tooeh  (to),  ataru. 
Toogh.  katai. 
Toward,  mukatte. 
Town,  machi/jaka. 
Tnumfyr,  lOstiMt. 
Jh/abb,  sMmpat. 
Jhn^  Aaia/  AiUfu. 


Turn  (to),  mawaru. 
Twice,  ni-do ;  futa4abi. 

tJgly,  mi-nikui. 
Ultimately,  hate  ni. 
Umbrella,  karakcua. 
Unable,  dekinu. 
Unbearable,  koraeror 

renu. 
Unbecoming,  niatoanu. 
Unbolt  (to),  hiraku. 
Unbutton  (to),  haztuu. 
Uncivil,  aisd-7no-na». 
Uncle,  oji-aan. 
Unclean,  kegareru. 
Uncomfortable,    ki     ni 

kanatoazu. 
Uncommon,  m&mrashii. 
Under,  no  ahita  ni. 
Under-clothing,  ahltaoi' 
Underdone,  nama-yake. 
Undermost,     ichiban 

ahita. 
Underneath,  ahita. 
Undo  (to),  hazuau. 
Undressed,  Aa<iaA;a  naru. 
Undrinkable,  nomarenu. 
Uneatable,  taberarenu. 
Unequal,  aorotoanu. 
Uneven,  fu-aoroi. 
Unexpected,  fui  no. 
Unfair,  tcuiaahikaranu. 
Unfinished,  aumanu. 
Unfit,  kanaioanu. 
Unfold,  hirogeru. 
Unfortunate,  fuko  na. 
Unfurnished,    dogu 

naahi. 
Ungraceful,  buaahd  na. 
Unhealthy,  doku  ni  naru. 
Up,  ue  ;  kami. 
Upon,  ue  ni. 
Upper,  ue  no. 
Upside  down,  aaka- 

aama. 
Us,  watakuahi-domo. 
Use  (to),  taukai. 
Useless,  yd  nitcUanu. 
Usually,  taitei. 

Vacant,  kara. 
Value,  atai ;  nedan. 
Various,  iro-iro  no. 
Vermin,  muahi. 
Very,  taiso;  hanahada. 
View,  keahiki. 
Vile;  vulgar,  iyaahii. 

Wages,  kyu-kin. 

Walk  ito)t  aruku. 

Walking-stick,  tsue. 
Walnut,  kurumi. 
Want  (to),  hoshii. 
Warm,  atatakai. 


Wash  (to),  arau. 
Water  (cold),  wmu. 
Water  (hot),  yu. 
Water-melon,  auika. 
Way,  miehi;  dd. 
Weak,  yowai. 
Weary,  taukareru. 
Weather,  tenki. 
Weight,  mekata. 
West,  niahi ;  aai. 
Wet,  nuretaru. 
Wet  (to),  nuretu. 
Wharf,  hatoba. 
What,  nani. 
Whatever,  nani  nite  mo. 
When,  itau  ;  toki. 
Whenever,  Uaudemo. 
Where,  tokoro  ;  doko. 
Wherever,  dokodemo. 
Whether,  dochira. 
Which,  dochira  /  dore. 
While,  toki ;  or*. 
Whip,  muchi. 
White,  ahiroi;  fiaku. 
Whither,  doko  ye. 
Who,  dare;  doruUa. 
Whoever,  daredemo. 
Whom,  dare;  dono  hito. 
Whose,  dare  no. 
Why,  ncue;  nani  yue. 
Wicked,  aku  na. 
Wide,  hiroi. 
Widow,  goke. 
Wife,  tauma. 
Willingly,  ahinkara. 
Wind,  kaze;  fH. 
Window,  mculo. 
Windy,  kazegachi  na. 
Wine,  8aA;e ;  buddahu. 
Wing,  hane. 
Wish,  negai. 
With,  to  iaaho  ni. 
Within,  uchi;  naka. 
Without,  aoto;  hoka. 
Woman,  onna. 
Word,  kotoba;  ji. 
Work,  ahigoto. 
World,  aekai. 
Worm,  mushi. 
Worse,  nao  warui. 
Worthless,    ne-uchi    ga 

nai. 
Wrap  up  (to),  tsutaumu. 
Write  (to),  kaku. 

Yellow,  ki-iro. 
Yes,  hai;  aayo. 
Yet,  mada. 
Yonder,  asuko. 
You,  anata. 
Young,  wakai. 
Your,  anata  no. 
Yourself;  anata-jihun. 
Youthful,  itokenai. 


txsBay 


JAPANESE  PHRASES 


Japanese  Phrases 


Godd-monung, 
Good-bye, 
Good-evening, 
Good-night, 
Thank  you. 
Welcome, 
Please  c6me  in, 
Please  sit  down, 

I  don't  know, 
What  time  is  it? 
When  is  it? 
What  is  it? 
Which  is  best? 


0  hayd, 

Saydnara. 

Komban  toa: 

O  y(i9uin%  ndsat, 

Arigato. 

IrasahaxmashU 

O  hairi  naaai. 

Dozo  o  kake  na- 
aai. 

Shirimcuen. 

Nan-ji  deaii  kaf 

Itau  deaii  kaf 

Nan  dean  kaf 

Dochi  ga  yoro- 
ahiif 

Chinaen  wa  ikuraf 


What  is  the  fare?  

What  do  you  say?  Nan  to  oaahav- 

maaUt 


It  is  too  dear, 
Come  here. 
That  won't  do, 
That  is  not  so. 
Do  you    under- 
stand? 
Look  at  it. 
Wait  a  minute. 
Don't  do  that, 
Can  you  go? 
Are  you  ready? 
I  can, 
I  can't, 


Amturi  takai. 
Oide  naaai. 
Sore  ja  ikemaaen. 
Sd  ja  nai. 
Wtikarimaail  kaf 

Oo-ran  naaai. 
S'&koahi  mate. 
So  ahicha  ikenai. 
IkaremaaH  kaf 
Mo  yoroahii  kaf 
Dekimaaii. 
Dekimaaen. 


That  is  enough.     Mo  yoroahii. 
It  does  n't  matter,  Kamaimaaen. 
No  more.  Mo  takuaan. 

Is  that  so?  So  dean  kaf 

I  beg  your  pardon,  Gomen  naaai. 
I  don't  understand,  Wakarimaaen. 
Who  is  it?  Dare  deau  kaf 

Where  is  it?    ^       Doko  deaii  kaf 
How  much  is  it? 
Please  show  me. 
That  will  do. 


Ikura  dean  kaf 
Miaete  ktidaaai. 
Sore  de  yoroahii. 


In  a  few  days. 
Stop! 
Go  awayt 
It  can't  be  helped , 
An;yrthing  will  do, 
It  IS  very  nice, 
I  see!  Indeed! 
I  won't  wait. 

Is  there? 

Is  it  far? 

I  am  hungry, 

I  am  an  American, 


I  am  an  English- 
man, 
Is  that  all  right? 

Pray  don't  men- 
tion it. 

What  is  the  fare 
to  the  hotel? 

Where  is  the  Post 
Office? 

What  do  you  call 
this  in  Japa- 
nese? 

I  don't  care. 

There  is, 

Is  it  near? 

I  am  thirsty. 

Do  you  speak 
English? 

What  is  the  mat- 
ter? 

I  feel  very  sorry. 


I  don't  want  that.  Are  wa  irimaaen. 

It  is  cheap. 

Take  care! 

That  is  all  right. 

Look  here! 

WTiat-  do  you 

want? 
How  are  you? 
Show  him  in. 
Please  hurry! 
I  can't  go, 
I  tell  you  I  don't 

know, 
Wait  there. 
Let  us  go. 
If  possible. 
This  won't  do. 
That  is  bad,5this 

is  good. 


Yaaui. 

Abunai  yo! 

Yoroahii. 

Chotto! 

Nan  no  go  yd  deaii 

kaf 
Ikaga  deaii  kaf 
O  toahi  moae. 
Hayaku! 
Ikaremaaen. 
Shiranai  yo. 


What     is 
name? 


Achira  ye  matte. 

Ikd  ya. 

Narubeku  toa. 

Kore  de  wa  ikenai. 

Are  wa  warui; 
kore  toa  yoro- 
ahii. 

yourO  namaye  roa  nan 
to  iuf 


I  am  very  glad  to 
see  you, 

Where      is    the 
W.  C? 

Where  is  the  Rail- 
way Station? 

Please  write  the 
address  in  Japa- 
nese, 

My  name  is 
Siuukit 

Both  of  them. 
Until  to-morrow. 
From   Yokohama 

to  Tokyo, 
It   is   not^  worth 

mentioning. 
Has  he  come? 
Has  \ie  ftonat 


Kinjittu, 
Motel 
Ike!   , 

ShXkata  ga  nai, 
Nandemo  it, 
Kekko  deaH, 
Naruhodol 
Machi  too  •himo' 

aen. 
ArxmaeH  kaf 
Toi  dean  kaf 
Hara  ga  hetU  ifu, 
WatakOahi      10a' 

Amerika-jin 

dean. 
WatakOahi  wa  Igi- 

riau-jin  deaii. 
Sore  de  yoroahii 

kaf 
D  6  itaahimaahUe, 

Hoteru     made    no 

chinaen  wa  ikttra 

dean  kaf 
Yabin-kyoku   tpa 

dochira  de  gotai- 

maaHkaf 
Kore     wa    Nihon 

de  nan  to  mSahi' 

maau  kaf 
Kamai  ya  ahinai. 
ArimasH. 
Chiko    gotaimaeO 

kaf 
Nodo  ga    kawaki^ 

mashita. 
Ei-go  wo    go-Monji 

dean  kaf 
Do  naaiUta  no  deaA 

kaf 
Sore    wa    o    kino^ 

doku  aama  de  go- 

taimaaO. 
Yoku  o  ide  naaai- 

maahUa. 
Benjo    wa   doku 

dean  kaf 
Suteiahoa     wa  do- 
chira  de   goaai' 

moan  kaf 
Doka    Nihon    no 

moji   de   tokoro 

wokaitekudaaai, 
WatakOahi    toa 

Suxuhi  to  m^ak* 

imaaO. 
Rionin  to  mo. 
Miy6nichi  mad^, 
Yokohama  kaira 

Tdkyd  tnado, 
tu  made  monaL 

Kitakat 
Ittakaf 


NUMEBAIA  ETC. 


cxxxv 


Ntunenls.  The  Ji^MUiefle  employ  two  miee:  their  own,  and  thoee  borrowed 
&om  the  CSiine*;  the  fotmer  extend  no  further  tham  the  number  ten. 


One 

Two 

Three 

Four 

Five 

Six 

Seven 

B^ght 

Nine 

Ten 

11 

12 

13 

14 

15 

16 

17 

18 

19 

20 

21 

22 

23 

24 

25 

26 

27 

28 

29 

30 

31 

40 


Chineu 
lehi 

m 

San 

Shi 

06 

Roku 

Shichi 

Hachi 

Ku 

ja 

Ju-iehi 

Ju^ni 

Jn-aan 

JUrilo 

Jiir9hieh% 
Jil-kachi 

Ni-jiL  ichi 
Ni-jiL  ni 
Ni^^  aan 
Nirj^  ahi 
Nirja  go 
Nujit  roku 
Ni^H  ahiehi 
Nv-ja  hachi 
Ni-jH  ku 

SanrjH  iehit 
SkirjiA 


Japanin 

mtoua 

FiUaUik 

Miua, 

Youa 

ItauUH 

MuUA 

NaiuUaA 

Yaua 

KokonotaH 

T6 


ete. 


41 

50 

51 

60 

61 

70 

71 

80 

81 

90 

91 

100 

200 

300 

400 

600 

600 

700 

800 

900 

1000 

2000 

3000 

4000 

5000 

6000 

7000 

8000 

9000 

10.000 

100.000 

A  million 


Shi-ja  icAt,  ete. 

Go-jH 

Oo-jO,  ichit  ete. 

Roku-ja 

Rokur^H  idii,  etc. 

Shidtv^a 

Shichi-jii  ichit  etc. 

Hachi-j^ 

Ifachi-jH  idii,  etc. 

Ku-ja 

Ku-ja  ichit  etc. 

Hyaku  (or  tp-pyaku) 

N*-^vaku 

Sam-byaku 

Shi-hi^iku 

Oo-hyaku 

RoT^-vyaku 

Shxcht-hyaku 

Hap-Tpyaku 

Kip-hyaku 

Sen  (also  1  cent)    ' 

iVwen 

San'ten 

Shi-sen 

Oo-sen 

Boku^en 

Shidti-een 

Hae-een 

Ku-een 

Ichi-fnan 

JUrman 

HyakuF-man 


Obdikal  Numbkbs  can  be  formed  of  the  above  by  prefixinglDai.  as  Dai-ichi, 
first;  Dat-ni,  second;  Dai-go,  fifth;  Dai-ju,  tenth;  Dai-jH-go,  fifteenth,  etc. 

House  Nuicbsrs  can  be  expressed  by  the  addition  of  ban,  as:  Number  1. 
Jehi-ban;  No.  2,  Ni-ban;  No.. 28.  Ni-ju-hachi-ban;  No.  242,  Ni-hyaku 
shi-^iMii-ban, 


Expressions  of  Time 


Second 
Moment 
Minute 
(1  minute 
5  minutes 
An  hour 


I 


A  day 

To-day 

Yesteraay 

To-morrow 

Midday 

Ni^t 

Midnight 

Evening 

Momiag 


Bid 

KcUa-toki 

Fun  (pun) 

ip-pun 

go  fun) 

Ichi-jikan 

Han-jikan 

JOgo-fun 

Ichi-nichi 

Konnichi 

Sakujittu 

Myonichi 

Mahiru;  Shdgo 

Yoru 

Yonaka 

YObe 

A»a 

Hyno-de 

ffi-no-%ri 


Afternoon 
Every  day 
A  week 
Every  week 
Next  week 
A  fortnight 
A  month 
A  year 
A  century 
Leap-year 
Christmas 
New  .Year's  day 
The  Holidays 


Hirusufji 

Mai-nichi 

laahU 

Mai-iaahu-kan 

Taugi  no  iaahu-kan 

Niahu-kan 

HitoiaiUci 

Ichi-nen 

Hyakurnen 

Uru-doahi 

KiriaiUo  no  tanj6-bi 

Ganjitau 

Kyujitau 


Spring 
Summer 
Autumn 
Winter 


The  Seasons 

Haru 
Natau 
AH 
Fuyu 


EXPRESSIOHS  OF  TIME 


On*  o'cloek  Ichi-ii 

2  ^'^  WWi 


Stichi-n 
Hachi-ji 


S  V*  ol  tbt  V«ak 


Wedn^day 


OimyS  bi 
KaySbi 
Smf6  U 
JtfoEuird  bi 


% 


DuTIof  the  UoMh 


Ja-ao-niiAi 

Jt-Mcky^ichi 

Ji-haehi-nichi 


Wv-Jfl-irff-BKAi 

Ni-jt-tan'nicM 
NuiO-vaUia 

Ni-^il^iclu-nielu 
WWfi-ABcAi-nicAi 

San^'irvichi 
Ean-ja-idii-nichi 


February 

if 


Acjtu-«alta 
Hachi-taua 

Torai 


11  (;/i-> 


7JoT4 


ai.Tf,.< 


Motility  (/ia-nDf  5a  ru)     I 
rock  ISa-,.o-io  T-ori) 
Due  (Miiu-ns-f  /nu) 
BoBT  (AluM-no-lo  /) 
Rat  (A/i!u-no-(  Ne) 


Uu-ni-iki)  begin  with  the  Year  ol 

B  the  Rat  und  cepeat  themselvfs  whra 

tbe  Year  of  Ab  Boat  ii  reachid: 


^A  bcioc  called  Tiger. 


Many  additional  Japanese  equivalents  of  Enffliah  wi 
id«  Uieir  ptoper  beadinsB  lhrou«hout  (be  Ouidebuok. 


Eniliah  woids  nill  b<  louid    < 


GEOGRAPHY  enxvii 

in.  Geographical  Sketch 


SByi 


^Ji^MUiete  Empire,  exclusive  of  Eorea^  consists  of  5^ 

'3i  "^'^  and  about  4000  small  ones,  which  stretch  in  a 

^uDyV*   "^ven  line  for  upwurd  of  2000  M.  between  22^  and 

^  Int.  JN.  and  120*"  and  156''  of  long.  E.  of  Greenwich. 

}aom,  the  3d  largest,  at  the  S.W.  limit,  and  the  Kuriles  at 

JuK'ILy  are  antipraal  geographicallv  as  well  as  climatically, 

'  ibt  former,  aistride  the  Tropic  of  Cancer,  is  as  sunny  and 

llM  the  latter  arer'foggy  and  cold.  To  most  foreigners  the 

ipan  is  the  Main  XSTand  (Hondo ,  or  Honshu  —  'main 

4  -mm  J  »1«^  Jihala — 'mainland')  which  curves  like  a  great 

iataitrfliiapetf  barrier  reef  for  800  M.  (1170  M.  long  by  the 

^  y.)  up  and  down  the  Russian-Asiatic  littoral  from  which 

i^  ^"^Mporated  by  the  Japan  Sea.  At  no  part  is  Hondd  more 

I      "i25o  M.  wide,  and  the  average  width  is  about  75  M.  On 

jfpeat  island  (said  to  be  the  5th  largest  in  the  world)^  with. 

Iflautifully  indented  coast-line  of  6630  M.,  are  38  millions 

ieoptey  and  the  important  cities  of  T5kyd,  Yokohama, 

jto,  OaaJb^  Kobe,  42  lesser  cities,  960  towns,  and  8641 

T.  Its  estimated  area  of  86,300  sq.  m.  makes  it  approxi- 
the  flue  of  Great  Britain,  or  of  New  York  and  Indiana 
jB  oombined. 
.  „?.WBd  from  the  mainland  (of  Siberia)  the  island  resembles 
linDar  edge  of  a  boomerang  curved  in  its  own  plane  to  nearly 
arc  3of  a  circle,  with  Aomori  at  its  topmost  point,  and 
monflBeki  at  the  bottom.   Tokyo,  lying  about  midway  of^ 
soe  places,  facing  the  Pacific  Ocean,  at  the  heel  of  the 
trument,  marks  a  point  where  the  land  bends  gracefully 
1  sweeps  due  N.  and  S.  Between  the  capital  and  Shimono- 
'ithetrendissouthwardwithawestwardly  pull.  Atthelast- 
jned  point,  Kyushu,  the  4th  largest  of  the  islands,  is  visible 
OSS  we  narrow  Shimonoseki  Strait,  pending  N.  and  S.  like 
igantic  pearHshaped  pearl.  It  counterbalances  in  a  staikine 
-r  the  great  norUiem  island  of  Yezo  (the  2d  largest),  and 
ces  of  the  3  chief  islands  a  well-defined  reverse  curve. 
iFasaki,  Kumamoto,  Kagoshima,  the  famed  province  of 
* '  <*ia,  the  active  volcano  of  Aso,  and  the  quaint  hot  springs 
.''  b^,  are  the  places  in  KyushQ  best  known  to  foreign 
'>V^  IB.  East  of  tnis  island,  across  the  Bungo  Channel,  lies 
; '"  n,  the  5th  island,  separated  from  the  S.W.  coast  of 
^  •  DV  the  renowned  and  romantically  beautiful  Inland 
r',aion  with  Fuji-mn  is  perhaps  the  best  known  of  aJl  the 
!.'^  features  of  the  Japanese  Empire.   Saghalien,  the  S. 
*.i.;  which  belongs  to  Japan,  lies  to  the  N.  of  Yezo  (see  the 
}^  The  most  important  of  the  remaining  possessions  are 
'  ^ochoo  and  Bonin  Islands,  Sado,  Oshima  (largest  of  the 
^'^lAeB  of  Isu),  Oki,  Awaji,  Tsushima,  and  the  GotQ  group. 
tfj  area  of  the  Japanese  poes^^na  (barring  Korea)  Vb 


czxzvSi  AGRICULTURE 

172,852  sq.  m.  ^  which  is  practically  that  of  Swet 
which,  crowded  into  the  borders  of  the  AmericaB  • 
Texas,  would  still  leave  the  Texans  a  margin  in  their . 
92,928  sq.  m. 

Agriculture.  —  The  land  of  the  Empire  proptf  (Jh 
KyUshu,  Shikoku,  YezOy  and  the  minor  islands)  is  mark^.. 
numerous  artificial  terraces  (dai)  upon  which  centuries  of  \ 
and  labor  have  been  expended,  and  which  now  pfoduoef 
vast  rice-crop  (50  million  koku  valued  at  800  millioD  jftrM 
partly  feeds  the  nation.  Some  of  these  terraces  extend  w 
the  mt.  slopes,  and  are  not  unfrequently  held  in  plioe  by  t 
sive  stone  walls.  Much  of  the  land  is  wortl  »c;ss  kamf  ^  br 
surfaces  that  spread  like  rolling  prairies  round  the  baan  of 
high  mts.,  and  are  covered  with  sword-like  bamboo-grswl 
cuts  the  intestines  of  sheep  that  essay  to  feed  upon  it.  Hit^ 
{hayashi)  cover  about  69%  of  the  country,  and  wilM 
bare  ridges  and  miles  of  sand-hills  along  the  coait,  ooi 
with  the  mts.,  make  up  four  fifths  of  the  total  area  ol  140 
sq.  m.  This  leaves  an  estimated  tillable  area  of  17%  wit^ 
actual  cultivated  area  of  12%,  or  less  than  one  eignth  ol 
entire  coimtry.  On  this  limited  smface  agricultural  prod 
valued  at  li  billion  yen  are  produced  annually  —  two'c  . 
a  year  being  taken  from  one  third  of  the  arable  area.  BL^ 
1  per  cent  of  the  population  are  engaged  in  farming,  tlma  c 
I  firming  the  proverb  that  agriculture  is  the  prop  of  tibe  oouni 
—  *  No  wa  kuni  no  motoJ    This  result  is  attained  ooly  by  1 
^utmost  diUgence,  as  the  soil,  which  is  largely  the  prodnet 
old  shales,  and  granite  and  trachytic  eruptions  decamposed 
the  weather,  has  small  natural  fertility.  Newly  broken  groi 
vields  but  scant  harvests.  Nowhere  else  in  the  woild  is  fei 
izer  (koyashi  or  koe)  more  carefully  and  industrious?  ooUec. 
and  drawn  from  various  sources,  or  more  rationally  utili' 
than  in  Japan. 

In  Central  Japan  there  are  vast  sylvan  stretches  as  jpj 
itive  as  they  were  a  millennium  ago.  The  (approx.)  56  xml 
acres  of  practically  virgin  forest  (which  have  been  under 
direct  protection  of  the  Imperial  Gov't  since  the  9th  cent.' 
divided  into  Protection  and  Utilization  Forests;  the   !" 
is  subdivided  into  Ordinary  and  Absolute;  the  latter  C\^ 
of  about  12,000  acres  inAiulained  intact,  the  felling  (h><  ' 
beins  forbidden.   Tho  increasing  demand  for  timber  f f  "  , 
buil£ng,  rly.  ties,  housebuilding,  etc.,  made  it  neGe8&  ,^  '. 
1907)  for  the  Gov't  to  revise  the  Forestry  Laws;  trees  ^r^i  d 
planted  according  to  system,  and  efforts  are  being  nr 
maintain  the  forests  at  a  certain  standard  of  producti    ^^ 
Most  of  the  mts.  are  heavily  wooded  far  up  their  sides  a* 
boiled  with  a  host  of  fine  deciduous  and  evergreen 
prominent  among  them  Spanish  chestnuts,  beechee,  t> 
jJas,  cryptomeriaBf  opks,  pines,  bamboos,  many  VMie 

\ 


GEOLOGY 

maples,  cherries,  etc.;  and  they  impart  a  perennial  greenness 
ke  that  of  Ireland  or  Ceylon.  Scattered  among  them  is  an 
QUBual  lot  of  beautiful  flowering  trees,  and  these,  along  with 
he  omnipresent  camellias  and  other  flowers,  add  greatly  to 
be  coimtry's  charm.  Plains  extend  along  the  lower  courses 
nf  certain  of  the  large  rivers,  but  they  are  few  in  number. 
Hie  most  important  are  the  Plain  of  the  Kwanto,  N.  of  T5kyd 
^y,  on  the  Tone  and  Sumida  Rivers;  the  Plains  of  Mino, 
Ounsm,  and  Ise  on  the  Kisogawa  and  the  Ise-no-umi;  the  Plain 
of  Osaka,  on  the  Yodogawa;  that  of  Echigo  on  the  Shinano 
Biver;  Sendai,  on  the  Abukuma  and  the  Bay  of  Sendai,  and, 
lastly,  the  Plain  of  Ishikari,  in  Yezo.  As  a  rule,  hill  and  vidley 
continually  succeed  each  other  on  the  Main  Island.  Yeso  is 
practically  a  mountain  mass.  A  landscape  view  without 
mountains  is  as  rare  in  Japan  as  a  seascape  without  ships. 

Geologically  Japan  is  a  yoimg  and  growing  country.  Many 
iM!tiye  volcanoes  are  constantly  at  work  on  it,  and  in  many  parts 
of  it  the  earth's  crust  is  never  quite  still.  In  some  places 
(notably  at  Beppu)  the  volcanic  fires  are  so  near  the  surface, 
and  the  crust  or  skin  is  so  thin,  that  the  people  utilize  the 
natoral  heat  for  cooking  purposes.  In  the  geological  formation 
of  the  main  island  plutonic  rocks,  especiaUy  granite;  volcanic 
l^jadiyte  and  dolerite,  and  Palseozoic  schists,  predominate, 
^e  basis  of  Hondd  consists  of  giUnite,  syenite,  diorite,  dia- 
oase^  and  related  kinds  of  rock.  Often  the  old  crystalhne  rocks 
we  for  long  distances  overlaid  by  very  old  schists  and  quarts- 
jteB.  Ingeneral  they  follow  the  main  direction  of  the  island 
from  S.  W .  to  N.E.  In  some  districts  Mesozoic  sand-  and  lime- 
Jtone  are  found  in  connection  with  it,  and  frequently  Tertiary 
formations.  Volcanic  masses  break  through  and  overlie  all 
tliese  rocks  and  deposits  in  innumerable  places.  Granite  plays 
a  prominent  part  in  the  composition  of  many  of  the  mts. 

High  Mountains  stud  the  Empire  throughout  its  length, 
yd  the  massive  axial  chain  which  reaches  from  Yezo  to 
^liahil  covers,  with  its  paralleling  and  intersecting  ranges, 
Jwut  seven  eighths  of  the  entire  country.  From  the  seacoast 
^  land  slopes  up  gradually  into  hills,  thence  into  lesser  peaks 
*d  high  plateaus,  and  finally  into  lofty  ridges.  From  the 
wes  the  land  plunges  abruptly  into  deep  water,  confirming 
we  bdief  that  Japan  is  the  emerged  crest  of  a  vast  submarine 
nt. — *  perhaps  the  edge  of  the  hard  rock  left  by  the  sub- 
mergence of  the  earth-crust  which  now  floors  the  Sea  of  Japan 
Md  the  Gulf  of  Tartary.'  While  stern,  sky-scraping  ramparts 
Mid  beetling  crags  are  conspicuous  features  on  the  Main 
Uand,  —  particularly  in  Central  Japan,  —  rounded  forms 
iredominate  and  aid  materially  to  produce  the  exauisite  land- 
Mapes  for  which  the  country  is  celebrated.  Hundreds  of  tte 
Dte.  TOW  quiet  were  once  blazing  furnaces;  of  the  200  or  moTe 
Qtoooes,  SO  are  said  to  be  periodically  active.  A  correct  AisV. 


csxl  MOUNTAINS 

of  the  most  violent  ones  is  difficult  to  fonn,  since  every  no 
and  then  some  alleged  dead  volcano  comes  suddenly  to  UT 
and  if  it  does  not  devastate  its  surroundings,  it  succc^eds 
terrorizing  the  people  by  its  threatenings.  Volcanoes  not 
frequently  form  on  the  floor  of  the  Pacific  Ocean  adjacent 
Japan,  and  often,  after  poking  a  fiery  head  above  the  surf i 
of  the  sea,  retire  to  submarine  depths  amid  a  ^eat  hissing 
spluttering.    If  they  solidify  into  geographical  points, 
become  permanent  neighbors,  they  not  unfrequently  give 
to  international  bickerings,  and  become  touchstones  to  t 
greedy,  land-grabbing  nations  whose  ships  seem  to  lie  in  wt 
for  such  uprisings.  Besides  the  masses  and  fields  of  scoria  oi 
meets  with  almost  everjrwhere,  other  evidences  of  the 
imrest  of  the  past  are  noticed.  Solfataras  exist  in  active  o 
tion  in  many  places;  beds  of  sulphur  abound,  and  suTph 
springs  may  be  foimd  in  almost  every  province. 

The  culminating  point  of  the  Japanese  Empire  is 
Morrison,  in  Formosa.   The  highest  pnsak  in  Japan  proper 
the  lordly  Fujisan,  *  which  always  gets  into  one's  mental  Dac^  "i- 
ground  at  the  mention  of  Japan.'    The  most  stupendc^  «8 
mountain  mass  is  the  Shinano-Hida  Range,  an  awe-inspiri  MJig 
group  of  colossal  granite  giants  astride  the  border  of  Shui&:x]o 
and  Hida  Provinces,  whence  the  name.    Their  culminatiz]^ 
point  (2d  highest  on  the  Main  Island),  is  Yarigatake,  often 
referred  to  as  the  Japanese  Mattcrhom.  To  the  S.,  but  linked 
to  it  by  a  great  arite,  is  Hodaka-yama  (10,150  ft.),  spoken  of  sB 
the  highest  granite  peak  in  the  country.  Its  name,  'mountaio 
of  the  standing  ears  of  com,'  is  due  to  the  picturesque  towen 
and  pinnacles  which  rise  from  its  ridges.  The  loftiest  peak  of 
the  great  Kiso  Range,  of  Shinano  Rx)vince,  is  KomagtUake. 
Tate-yama,  or  *  beacon  mountain'  (often  called  by  its  ChioeBe 
name,  Ryusan,  or  *  Dragon  Peak'),  rises  9700  ft.  above  tiie 
sea,  in  Etehu  Province,  and  attracts  thousands  of  pilgrinu 
yearly.   One  of  the  most  imposing  peaks  on  the  W.  Coast  is 
the  snow-capped   Haku-san  (Shiro-yama),  called  poeticallv 
the  *  White  Mountain  of  Kaga '  (provmce) .  Nearly  every  hign 
peak  with  any  pretense  to  grace  or  beauty,  and  from  which 
fine  panoramas  are  visible,  has  been  sanctified  by  the  nature- 
loving  people,  and  the  Buddhists  have  erected  shrines  on  their 
summits  to  which  thousands  of  religionists  go  each  year.  All 
the  mt.  peaks  of  any  prominence  are  mentioned  in  their 
proper  places  in  the  Guidebook.    Mts.  of  eternal  snow  are  not 
features  of  Japan  proper;  many  of  the  loftiest  peaks  are  heavily 
mantled  with  snow  from  Oct.  to  late  spring,  but  the  summer 
sun  melts  most  of  it,  and  leaves  only  streaks  and  patches. 

Strangers  unacquainted  with  the  unruly  nature  of  the  sup- 
posed extinct  volcanoes  of  Japan  will  do  well  to  approach  them 
cautiously,  as  they  are  not  to  be  trusted.    Bandaisan  slept 
/or  3  mUlenmum,  then  suddenly  exploded,  blew  off  its  cap,  aod 


POUTIGAL  DIVISIONS 


cxU 


lolled  400  penons.  Asamoryama,  the  most  accessible  active 
volcano  on  the  Main  Island,  has  periods  of  sullen  quiescence, 
but  it  is  as  rude  and  as  vicious  as  a  rogue  elephant,  and  seems 
to  tr^r  to  kill  all  who  come  within  its  sphere.  Hoaiy-headed 
Fuji  is  thoudit  by  many  to  harbor  white-hot  passions  in  its 
heart,  and  tojbe  gathering  its  forces  for  another  outbreak.  The 
traveler,  desirous  of  seeing  a  volcano  at  work  without  running 
the  risk  of  inciirringlts  displeasure,  is  recommended  to  try  the 
grouchy  but  harmless  Aso^aUf  in  Kyushu.  Though  one  of 
nature  s  most  colossal  ruins,  and  still  addicted  to  smoking 
violently,  it  is  in  reatity  as  gentle  as  an  old  cow,  and  contents 
itself  with  grumbling  and  puffing  out  huge  jets  of  steam. 
Ladies  can  reach  the  summit  without  undue  exertion,  and  there 
itre  no  knife-ridges  or  disconcerting  precipices  to  upset  one's 
physical  poise.  Steam  rises  incessantly  from  a  host  of  the 
peaks  scattered  throughout  the  Empire,  and  the  daily  news- 
papers refer  to  any  imwonted  or  violent  eruptions. 

Mocmtaiii  CHmbing  must  be  done  in  summer,  forwhen  the  peaks  are  snow- 

oorered,  the  authorities  consider  them  unsafe  and  officially  '  dose '  them 

until  the  snows  melt.     The  '  opening '  of  the  best-known  mts.  is  usually 

lienkled  in  the  newspapers.    No  hish  passes  should  be  attempted  before 

^^iay.  Gmdee  often  refuse  to  ascend  them  before  this  date.  The  '  mountain 

opeidng  '  (yamorbirfiki)  of  the  so-called  sacred  peaks  is  usually  attended  by 

an  elaborate  rdigious  ceremony  conducted  by  the  fleets  in  charge  of  the 

Bhrioe  at  the  top,  and  aimed  to  propitiate  the  gods.  While  the  gov't  officials 

^  not  forcibly  resteain  a  determined  winter  climber,  except  in  cases  of  par- 

traulariy  dangerous  volcanoes,  travelere  should  remember  that  attempts 

to  Boale  Ft^jiraan  out  of  season,  when  avalanches  are  on  the  move,  have  re- 

nihed  in  disaster.  Outfits  can  be  bought  at  the  Yokohama  and  Kobe  stores 

which  make  a  specialty  of  them.   In  his  excellent  book,  Mountaineering  in 

(he  Japanese  Alpa^  the  Rev.  Walter  Weeton  gives  prospective  climbers  much 

Suable  advice. 

Political  Divisions. — The  Empire  is  divided  into  Nine  Cir- 
cuits, or  groups  of  provinces  that  correspond  in  a  way  to  the 
Eastern,  Central,  Middle,  Western,  etc.,  States  of  the  U.S.A. 
The  system  is  said  to  have  been  inaugurated  by  the  Empress 
Jingo  in  a.d.  250,  when  she  divided  the  original  provinces  of 
ber  realm  into  the  imperial  domains  now  known  as  the 
Qokinai  (or  A^inot),  'Five  Home  Provinces.'  Originally  each 
province  (shU,  in  Chinese)  had  only  a  Chinese  name.  The 
subjoined  list  shows  them  with  both  the  Chinese  and  Japan- 
^  nomenclature. 


GOKINAI,  OR  FIVE  HOME  PROVINCES,  MAIN  ISLAND 


Japanete 
name 


Chinese 
name 


TtmaaUio    JdehU 
Ttmato        Waaha 
fUnM   .   KaahU 
J^ai  SenahU 

8e$»kfi 


Prefecture 
in  which 
located 

KySto 

^ara 

Isaka 


Hyi^o 


Superficial 

area  of  the 

prefecture 

in  sq.  m. 

1760 
1200 

689 

689 
3320 


Seat  of 
prefeetural 
gov't 


Population 

of 
prefecture 

1,032,481  • 
595,654 


cslM 


POLITICAL  DIVISIONS 


.    TOKAIDd  (RA.STERN  SEA  ROAD).  WITH  15  PROVH 

MAIN  ISLAND 


tga 
Ise 

Shima 
Owari. 

Mikawa 

T5t6mi 

Suruga 

Kai 

Leu  (Idzu) 

Sagami 

Musashi 

Awa 

Kasusa 

ShimSsa 

Hitachi 


lahu 

SeiahU 

ShiahU 

BUhu 

SanahU 

Ensha 

Sun8?ni 

Kdaha 

Zutha 

SdshU 

BuahU 

BdahU 

Soaha 

SoahU 

JdahU 


Miye 

Miye 

Miye 

Aichi 

Aichi 

Shizuoka 

Shizuoka . 

Yamanashi 

Shizuoka 

Kanagawa 

Saiiama 

Chiba 

Chiba 

Chiba 

Ibaraki 


2190 
2190 
2190 
1860 
1860 
3000 
3000 
1720  • 
3000 
926 
1580 
1940 
1940 
1940 
2290 


Tsu 

Tsu 

Tsu 

Nagoya 

Nagoya 

Shizuoka 

Shizuoka 

K5fu 

Shizuoka 

Yokohama 

Urawa 

Chiba 

Chiba 

Chiba 

Mito 


TOSANDO  (EASTERN  MOUNTAIN  ROAD),  WITH  13  PRC 

MAIN  ISLAND 


Omi 

Mino 

Hida    . 

Shinano 

Kdtsuke 

Sfaimotsuke 

Iwaki^  ' 

Iwadiiro 

Rikiuen 

RikuohQ 

Mutsu 

Usen 

Ugo 


Odaha  Shiga  1540 

Noaha  Gifu  4000 

Hiahu  Gifu  4000 

Shinaha  Nagano  5080 

Jdahli  Gumma  2420 

Yaaha  Tochigi  2450 

lahU  Fukuahima  5070 

)8hil  Fukuahima  5070 

)ahu  Miyagi  3220 

)ahii  Iwate  5350 

hhH  Aomori  3620 

U^a  Yamagata  3580 

Uaha  Akita  4490 


Otsu 

Gifu 

Gifu 

Nagano 

Maebashi 

Utsunomiya 

Fukushima 

Fukuahima 

Sendai 

Morioka 

Aomori 

Yamagata 

Akita 


H0KUR0KUD5    (NORTH-LAND   ROAD),   WITH   7   PRO 

MAIN   ISLAND 


Wakasa 

Jahuahu 

Fukui 

1620 

Fukui 

Echizen 

Eaahu 

Fukui 

1620 

Fukui 

Kaga 

Kaahu 

lahikawa 

1600 

Kanazawa 

Noto 

Noahu 

lahikawa 

1600 

Kanazawa 

Etoha 

Eaaha 

To^ama 

1580 

Toyama 

Eohigo 

Eaahu 

Niigata 

4910 

Niigata 

Sado  (la.) 

Saaha 

Niigata 

4910 

Niigata 

SANIN-DO 

(SHADY-SIDE-OF-THE-MOUNTAIN   ROAD 

8   PROVINCES,   MAIN   ISLAND 

Tamba 

Tanahu 

Kydto 

1760 

Kyoto 

Tango 

Tanahu 

Kydto 

1760 

KySto 

Tajima 

Tanaha 

Hydgo 

3320 

Hyogo 

Inaba 

InahU 

Tottori 

1335 

Tottori 

H5ki 

Hakuahu 

Tottori 

1335 

Tottori 

Izumo 

Unahu 

Shimane 

2590 

Matsue 

Iwami 

Sekiahu 

Shimane 

2590 

Matsue 

Oki  (ialand) 

Inahu 

Shimane 

2590 

Matsue 

SANY5DO 

(SUNNY-SIDE-OF-THE-MOUNTAIN-ROAD) 

8 

PROVINCES 

;.   MAIN 

ISLAND 

Harima 

BanahU 

Hy5go 

3320 

Himeji 

Mimasaka 

Sakuahu 

Okayama 

2500 

Okayama 

Bizen 

BiahU 

Qkajrama 
Okayama 

2500 

Okayama 

Bitcha 

Biaha 

2500 

Okayama 

Bingo 

B%ah4 

Hiroahima 

3100 

Hiroahima 

ATd^ 

Geiahtt 

Hiroahima 

3100 

Hiroahima 

Suird 

Bdaha 

Yamaguchi 

2320 

Yamaguchi, 

Nagato 

ChdahU 

Yamaguchi 

2320 

Yamaguchi 

The  two  foregoing  circuits  are  generally  Telerred  \a  «a  C\x(S«ok 

tral-Landa. 

THE  RIVER  SYSTEM 


odiii 


NANKAIDO  (SOUTH-SEA   ROAD),  WITH  6  PROVINCES.  MAIN 
ISLAND,  AWAJI,  AND  SHIKOKU   ISLANDS 


Kii  Ktsha 

Awaji  Island  TanahA 

Awa  (Shikoku)  AahU 

Sanuki  (Shikoku)  SanahU 

lyo  (Shikoku)  Yoshu 

Tosa  (Shikoku)  Toshu 


Wakayama  1850 

Hydgo  3320 

Tokushima  842 

Kagawa  676 

Ehime  2030 

Kdchi  2740 


Wakayama 

HyOgo  ^ 

Tokuflhima 

Takamatsu 

Matsuyama 

K5chi 


754.414 
1,883,568 

749,791 

755,643 
1,101,137 

681.739 


SAIKAID5  (WEST-SEA  ROAD),  WITH  9  PROVINCES,  KYtJSHO, 

IKI,  AND  TSUSHIMA   ISLANDS 


Chikuxen  (KyttdiQ)  ChikushU    Fukuoka 
Caiikugo  (KyOflha)     ChikuahU    Fukuoka 


Bumen  (Kyflaha) 
Bungo  (KytLsha) 
Hiien  (KyttdiQ) 


Fukuoka 
Fukuoka 


ffigo  (KyQahQ) 
HyOsa  (KyOflha) 
Oflumi  (Kyllaha) 


Satfluma  (Ksrfkaha) 
Ud  Island 
Tmuhima  Island 


Hoshu 

Hosha 

HUhH 

HiahU 

Niaahu 

Ouahu 

SaaahU 

lahu 

Taiaha 


Saga 

Kumamoto 

Miyasaki 


1.587,860 

1.587,860 

905.206 

905.206 

703.585 

1,276,206 

529.803 

1.299.235 

1,299.235 

945,039 

945,039 


1890 
1890 

8ita  2400 

ita  2400 

Saga  954 

Kumamoto  2770 
Miyaiaki      2900 
Kagoshima  3560     Kagoshima 
Kagoshima  3560    Kagoshima 
Nagasaki      1400    Nagasaki 
Nagasaki      1400    Nagasaki 

The  LoocHOO  Islands  (RyfJcyik  or  Okinawa),  with  a  PrefeotunJ  Office 
at  Okinawa,  are  included  in  the  above. 

Hokkaido  (Nobtb-Sba  Road),  or  Hokusha  (or  Yeso),  includes  the 
Koiile  Islands,  and  is  divided  into  Oshima,  Shiribeshi.  Ishikari,  Teshio, 
Kltand,  Iburi,  Hidaka,  Tokachi,  Kushiro,  and  Nemuro  Provinces.  Super- 
ficial area,  35,739  sq.  m.    Pop.  1,137.460.    (See  the  Index.) 

In  andent  times  a  baxrier  extended  from  Osaka  to  the  border 
of  Yamato  and  Omi  Provinces,  and  separated  the  (then)  33  E. 
from  the  33  W.  provinces.  The  former  were  called  Kwanaei  (or 
Kuwansei),  'Westward  of  the  Gate/  and  the  latter Xt£;an/d  (or 
Kmoantd),  'Eastward  of  the  Gate/  During  the  Tokugawa  r^ 
gime,  when  the  shogun  had  his  capital  at  Yedo,  the  pass  over  the 
Hakone  Mts.  was  strictly  guarded  by  a  great  gate  (kwan)^  and 
by  extension  the  Kwanto  was  considered  to  embrace  the  8  pro- 
vinces (Musashi,  Awa,  Kazusa,  Shimosa,  Kotsuke,  Shimotsuke, 
Hitachi,  and  Sagami)  to  the  E.  of  the  Hakone  Mts.  The  pro- 
vinces to  the  W.  of  these  mts.  are  known  collectively  as  Kwansei, 
All  the  provinces  of  Japan  together  are  known  as  Goki  hachido. 
The  River  System  is  more  varied  than  extensive.  The  nar- 
rowness of  the  Main  Island,  the  relatively  small  size  of  the 
others,  and  the  generaLrugged  configuration,  converts  most 
of  the  short  rivers  (kawa;  gawd)  into  impetuous  torrents  which 
>lunge  down  from  the  mts.  and  in  their  swift  course  to  the  sea 
orm  many  beautiful  waterfalls,  rapids,  and  cascades.  The 
ongest  rivers  are  navigable  by  big  boats  only  for  a  short  dis- 
tance from  their  mouths.  As  a  rule  they  take  their  names  from 
the  mt.,  province,  or  ken  at  their  source;  changing  them  often 
to  correspond  with  those  of  the  districts  through  which  they 
flow.  Nearly  all  run  through  unusually  picturesque  surround- 
higs,  and  nearly  all  abound  in  fine  fish.  The  area  kept  perma- 
AenUy  waste  by  the  unruly  nature  of  the  rivers  is  enormous. 
After  a  heavy  storm  small  streams  not  infrecjuentlv  becora^ 
konaats  a  mile  or  more  wide,  that  sweep  resiatlesaiy  over  a 


cxliv  LAKES 

wilderness  of  stones  and  gravel  where  fruitful  fields  ought  ti 
be.  The  traveler,  who  to-day  crosses  a  clear,  whimpering  brool 
on  a  plank  flung  athwart  it,  may  to-morrow  find  it  a  roarini 
flood  bearing  wrecked  houses  and  trees  to  the  sea.  All  thi 
important  rivers,  lakes,  and  waterfalls  are  mentioned  in  thel 
proper  places  in  the  Guidebook. 

The  Japanese  Lakes  (ko;  kosui;  mizuumi),  particularl3 
those  01  the  highlands  {Chuzenji,  Yumoto,  Haruna,  etc.),  an 
famed  for  their  beauty  and  picturesque  environment.  The 
chain  of  lakelets  girdung  Fujusan  are  veritable  gemb,  and 
besides  possessing  excellent  fiish,  they  have  no  visible  outlets. 
Li  the  deep-blue,  splendidly  transparent  and  reflective  waters 
are  fine  salmon-trout  (masu)  generally  found  only  in  riven 
communicating  with  the  sea;  as  well  as  two  other  species  of  the 
Salmonidae  (the  amemaau,  and  the  ivxina).  These  lakes  are 
as  much  a  puzzle  to  the  Japanese  as  the  seal-infested  Baikal 
is  to  the  Russians.  The  largest  of  the  lakes  of  Japan  is  the 
poetic  and  romantically  beautiful  Lake  of  Omi  (see  Index). 

The  Inland  Sea  {Seio  Uchi,  or  Seto-txhi^nO'Umij^Sea,  within 
the  strait ')  celebrated  as  one  of  the  most  beautiful  natural 
features  of  Japan,  extends  for  about  240  M.  along  the  Pacific 
side  of  the  Main  Island,  from  Shimonoseki  at  the  W.  to  Osaka 
at  the  E.  Its  width  varies  from  3  to  30  M.,  and  it  is  bounded 
on  the  S.  bv  Shikoku  Is.  It  conm[iunicates  with  the  Japan  Sea 
through  Shimonoseki  (anciently  Van  der  Capellen)  Strait. 
and  with  the  Pacific  Ocean  through  the  Bungo  Channel 
(between  Kyusha  and  the  W.  coast  of  Shikoku),  and  the  Kii 
Channel  (at  its  E.  end).  At  this  point,  between  Awaji  Is.  and 
Shikoku,  is  the  dreaded  Naruto  Whirlpool^  where  the  an^ 
sea  boils  and  eddies  with  a  loud  noise  and  races  seaward  wiui 
extreme  violence.  Despite  its  relative  shallowness  (4  to  40 
fathoms)  the  Inland  Sea  can  be  navigated  with  safety  at  all 
seasons.  Fog  and  the  many  islets  with  which  it  is  sown  are 
the  chief  hindrances.  The  smoothness  of  its  fish-infested 
waters  and  the  beauty  of  its  embayed  shores  appeal  to  sailora 
and  travelers  alike,  and  most  ships  plying  along  the  Nippon 
coast  navigate  it  on  the  voyage  between  Kobe  and  Nagasaki 
Its  divisions  {nadas,  or  '  seas ')  are  named  for  the  provinces 
whose  shores  they  wash.  Thus,  the  E.  section  as  far  as  Akashi 
Strait  is  called  Izumi^nada^  and  proceeding  W.  there  follow  the 
Harima-,  Bingo-y  lyo-,  and  Suwo-nadq.  The  8_tretch  off  Kobe 
is  called  Kobe-no-minatOy  and  that  off  Osaka,  Osaka-fUMnimUo 
(also  Naniwa-na^sUf  *  swift-waves  bay  0 .  Many  of  the  islaiids 
of  the  Inland  Sea  are  terraced  to  their  summits  and  covered 
with  paddy-fields  or  pine  groves.  The  fishing-hamlets  of  the 
shore  are  strikingly  picturesque.  A  yachting  trip  throu§^  t^ 
exaggerated  lake  in  fine  weather  is  something  long  to  be  remem* 
b&rea.  Yachts  fully  manned  by  experienced,  English-spealdng 
seamen  can  be  hired  of  the  Ni'ppon   Yusen  Kaisha  cht  the 


THE  KURO-SmWO  odv 

Oioka  Shoaen  Kauha,  Travelers  of  modest  means  can  enjoy 
its  beauties  from  the  deck  of  one  of  the  several  steamships  of 
the  (haka  Shoaen  Kaiaha  plying  between  Kobe  and  Miyajuna- 
Shimonoseki-Beppu,  etc.  For  hours  of  sailing,  rates  ol  pas- 
sage, etc.,  consult  any  of  the  company's  agents. 

The  Kuio-shiwo  (kuroy  black;  ahiwoy  salt,  or  brine),  a  warm 
oceanic  surface  current  spoken  of  by  sailors  as  the  Japan 
Stream,  and  often  r^erred  to  (erroneously)  as  the  Japan  Gulf 
Sta:eam  (because  of  its  similarity  to  the  Atlantic  Gulf  Stream), 
plays  an  important  part  in  the  meteorological  phenomena  of 
Japan;  in  the  production  of  its  flora  and  its  fauna,  as  well  as 
in  the  character  and  habits  of  its  people.  (Comp.  Climate.)  It 
arises  from  the  N.  equatorial  current  of  the  Pacific  Ocean  at  a 
point  between  Luzon  and  Formosa;  from  about  lat.  20°  N.  it 
flows  along  the  E.  side  of  Formosa  and  alone  the  S.  of  the 
l4X)chooB  to  about  the  26th  parallel,  where  it  forks,  the  main 
corrent  trending  N.  and  N.E.  until  it  washes  the  E.  coasts  of 
KytshQ,  Shikoku,  and  Hond5  in  succession.  Above  lat.  38** 
N.  it  takes  a  more  easterly  direction,  finally  bending  S.  of  the 
Aleutian  Islands  and  makingfor  the  coast  of  North  America, 
which  it  foUows  from  the  N!w.  from  Sitka  to  Cape  St.  Lucas 
(Lower  California)  under  the  name  of  the  North  Pacific  Drift. 
A  small  arm  of  it  maintains  the  N.E.  direction  N.  of  lat.  38^ 
and  at  some  distance  from  the  coast  between  Kamchatka  ana 
the  Aleutian  Idands,  flows  into  Behring  Sea.  The  main  body 
of  the  current  is  joined  S.  of  Formosa  by  the  N.E.  drift  from 
the  China  Sea,  where  its  limits  and  velocity  are  considerably 
influenced  by  the  monsoons  which  sweep  over  that  sea.  As  it 
approaches  KyOshfi  a  small  offshoot  retains  the  N.  direction, 
and  rushing  round  the  W.  of  this  island  and  the  Groto  group  it 
flows  E.  of  Tsushima  (by  which  name  it  is  often  called)  and 
enters  the  Sea  of  Japan  through  the  Korea  Strait.  Flowing 
across  the  Sea  of  Japan  from  S.W.  to  N.E.,  it  proceeds  partly 
thiough  the  Tsugaru  Straits  (but  principally  out  through  the 
Straits  of  La  Perouse)  and  soon  merges  with  the  S.  waters  of 
the  Okhotsk  Sea.  It  washes  the  W.  of  Yezo  and  the  S.E.  of 
Sa^^en,  and  may  be  observed  here  as  far  as  Patience  Bay. 

The  Kura-ahitoo  was  observed  by  the  Dutch  navigator  Vries 
as  early  as  1643,  on  his  voyage  in  the  Castricum-j  and  it  is  also 
mentioned  by  many  later  discoverers.  Its  velocity  between 
Formosa  and  Van  Diemen  Strait  is  30-50  M.  a  day,  during  the 
S.W.  monsoon,  and  somewhat  less  in  the  N.E.  monsoon. 
Between  the  meridians  of  Van  Dienien  Strait  and  the  Gulf  of 
Tokyo,  the  velocity  is  20  to  100  M.  a  day,  being  greatest  in  the 
aria  of  the  current,  decreasing  toward  the  edges,  and  some- 
what less  in  the  winter  than  in  the  summer.  Its  mean  rate  in 
this  locali^  is  about  2}  knots  an  hr.  The  rate  decreases  to 
20  to  ^  M.  a  day  east^rard  of  Japan  and  is  less  than  that  *&. 
^  tib  meridian  of  150*'  E,  Its  breadth  between  Formosa  and 


I 


E.  of^wSSj 


cilvi  THE  KURO-SHIWO 

the  Miyakojima group  is  about  100  M.;  in  li...  __  _._,  . 
Tokara  Islanda,  it  is  200-250  M.  wide;  and  E.  of  Vmt' 
Slrail,  to  about  the  meridian  of  133°  E.,  it  is  about  250  M, 
hrovA  in  winter  and  300  M.  in  other  seBsons  of  the  yeaf, 
Between  the  mcridinnH  of  133°  &nd  140°  E.,  its  breadth  ia 
upwards  of  300  M.  in  winter,  400  in  spring  and  autumn,  Bud 
500  in  summer.  The  surface  temperatures  of  the  JCuro-MiiW 
are  not  always  e<jual;  W.  of  the  Nansei  group  it  has  ilfi  mim- 
mum  meaa  temperature  in  Feb.  and  March,  when  it  ia  about 
67°;  end  its  maximum  mean  in  Aug.,  when  it  is  about  83°.  Il 
vanea  considerably  at  other  places  along  its  eourse.  It  it 
usually  5°  to  15°  warmer  than  the  waters  that  bound  it  «i 
either  side,  while  in  Feb.  on  the  S,  coast  of  Japan  it  is  from 
8°  to  14°  warmer  than  the  air  (in  Aug.  the  air  is  2^  warmer  thun 
the  wat«r).  Where  it  meets  the  cold  Arctic  counter-cuitenU, 
or  where  islands  (especially  the  Loochoos)  and  shallowa  pto- 
duce  eddies  and  whirlpoob,  there  result  great  breakra«  uhJ 
high  waves;  then  violent  rainstorms  in  the  S.  and  thick  fogi 
in  the  N,  are  frequent,  and  the  aea  snarls  and  surges  and  moka 
Home  transpamno  travelers  uncomfortable  while  they  ait 
crossing  the  ciurent.  Occasionally  some  unknown  force  (pe^ 
hape  a  submarine  volcanic  disturbance)  will  set  the  Kvn- 
shiwo  running  in  toward  the  entrance  to  Tokyo  Gulf  aad  the 
N.  shore  of  the  island,  and  if  this  occurs  in  the  winter  (wmoli 
not  iirfrequently  happens)  Tokyo  and  Yokohama  experience 
spring  weather,  and  winter  decamps  from  Kamakura  and  tbe 
aheltored  resorts  to  the  S.  of  it.  Under  a  cloudy  sky  the  eolui 
of  the  KuTo-shiwo  is  gray,  in  sunshine  a  deep,  dark  blue,  wld 
this  conspicuously  dark  tint  gives  rise  to  its  name  '  BUflk 
Current,'  nnce  the  Japanese  sailor  is  said  not  to  distingtueli 
between  dark'blue  and  black, 

TtH  Knio-iliiwo  ia  of  peculiar  and  abidlDK  inUrest  to  Americaoi,  riuH 
many  attiking  HJiAlogiea  auoport  tbe  hypolheais  tbat  the  forebean  of  the 

tbiDDt  Htasbfd  iU  ahores  on  Uie  boBOin  of  tbi«  Ul^cl  itreani.  UiBtoiyieodi^ 
tkiA  theAlHKbea  (of  Uie  AlLauBseui  [amlly.  whose  oriEiasl  homB  wuin 
Alaika),  ths  Tolten.  the  Chii^luiMieoa,  the  Aiuea  or  Miaica.  and  many  ol  tbe 


Californis  Bod  not  be  out  of  sjjitit  of  land  for  mate  than  a  very  fen  day*  U 
»  time.  '  Witliout  BaceDdini;  to  the  high  aorchora  Intitudes,  where  the  son- 
tioenta  of  Aui  and  Americii  appmaob  vithia  fifty  milei  of  each  other,  it 
irould  be  euy  for  the  inhabitant  of  Eutani  Tiutary  or  Japan  to  ateer  hil 

bang  on  the  ocean  more  flian  tvo  days  at  a  time.'  Oo  June  3.  1S13,  a  Jair 
anese  flAhine-boat  (tbe  Svmiyoski  if  aru)  waa  blonn  off  ehore  near  Kinkattt* 
la.  (p.  31S)t  and  after  4fi  day*  of  drif^R  without  nidder.  oars,  or  BaiLe.  il 
Jandfd  iU  fite  half-starved  fiBtiBtaiBn  nn  tiui  Cefiimnii  cqmh.  m»,t  fiu 
Fmaciaco.  Afanj  eurioua  poinU  ol  tesenibWice  iitfb  llie  bm\s  ^^«»OB 
are  diaeeroible  in  the  Mongol  ra-CHB,  some  ol  tl«™  t^a^K  evWj<irti™.r( ,  T 


MINERAL  SPRINGS  criyii 

tbtolHontesuma  as  described  by  BerrialDuuin  his  Hiatoria  de  la  C<m- 
fiinato  d0  Mijieo,  The  peculiar  ohronologiccd  STstem  of  the  Astecs.  their 
niethod  of  distributiDg  the  years  into  cycles,  and  of  reckoning  by  means  of 
periodieal  series  instead  of  numbers,  was  anciently  used  by  uie  various 
Adaiko  nations  of  the  Mongol  family  from  India  to  Japan.  Both  the  Tar- 
tan lUDd  the  Aateos  indicated  (as  do  the  Japanese  to-day)  the  year  by  its 
ligDi;  as  the  *  src^ar  of  the  hare,'  or  *  tiger,'  etc.  Many  of  the  sacerdotal 
lites  of  the  Mexiea  resemble  those  of  the  Buddhists,  while  the  Otomi  lan- 
giuge  (which  anciently  covered  a  wider  territory  than  any  other  but  the 
IfakuaU  in  New  Smun)  shows  a  singular  affimty  to  the  Chinese  of  the 
Middle  Elngdom.  The  fact  that  the  first  YitccUecoa  seen  by  (Columbus  (in 
1502,  on  his  4th  and  last  voyage)  wore  queues  and  had  slanting  eyes,  and 
that  not  a  few  ot  the  people  of  Yucatan,  as  well  as  those  of  Dominica,  still 
have  the  latter  obliqudy  cast,  leads  one  to  speculate  upon  the  possibility  of  the 
euly  settlm  of  thoee  regions  having  been  aberrant  Chinese,  Koreans,  or 
Ja^nese. 

Though  not  BtartUn^  in  its  novelty  it  is  nevertheless  more  than  a  mere 
coiacidenoe  that  oertam  of  the  architectonic  phases  of  the  oldest  Korean 
temples  suggest  a  strong  aflEmity  with  the  ruined  palaces  of  Palenque,  in 
the  Mexican  State  of  Uhiapas;  and  of  Chichen-IUa,  in  Yucatan.  [Comp. 
Tensr's  Mmnoo,  pp.  566,  and  581].  That  the  fylfot  (or  swastika)  should  oo- 
cor  as  frequently  on  prehistoric  Mexican  pottezy  (as  well  as  that  of  the 
Moand-Buildans  of  Ohio)  as  it  does  on  Gredc  antiquities  of  the  Mycensan 
mh,  and  ancient  ware  of  China,  Korea,  and  Japan,  is  no  less  significant 
than  liie  fact  that  tiie  Yang  and  Yin,  the  two  principles  of  Chinese  philoa- 
^liy,  have  been  found  incised  on  shell  gorgets  of  the  *  people  of  the  Flints,' 
into  existed  sons  of  ages  apo  along  the  Red  River  of  Arkansas.  When 
Btrnan  CorteM  came  to  Mexico  in  1519,  the  illiterate  Tanucan  Indiana  of 
MiduMoan  (0tate)  knew  how  to  harden  copper,  and  to  make  beautiful 
pictures  l^  cunningly  attaching  the  resplendent  plumage  of  the  wings  of 
hjsnming  birds  to  dififnent  fabrics,  just  as  the  Cantonese  do  to-day  with 
biidrwings  and  metaL 

Next  in  importance  to  the  KuroshiwOf  is  the  OyashitoOf  a 
cold  current  which  flows  down  from  the  polar  regions  along  the 
W.  coast  of  Kamchatka  toward  the  Kuriles,  which  it  washes 
in  their  entire  length  after  receiving  a  weaker  current  from  the 
E.  side  of  the  great  Siberian  peninsula  near  Cape  Lopatka. 
Flowing  down  me  E.  coast  of  Yezo,  and  materially  altering 
the  climatic  conditions  of  that  island,  it  proceeds  down  the  E. 
coast  of  Hondo.  Another  current  from  the  Sea  of  Okhotsk, 
running  between  the  continent  and  Saghalien,  is  flooded  by 
the  cold  water  of  the  Amur,  to  later  trail  S.  through  the 
Tataric  channel  and  along  the  W.  coast  of  the  Sea  of  Japan. 
These  and  certain  other  currents  account  for  the  remarkable 
differences  of  climate  and  temperature  which  one  often  notes  in 
Japan  in  places  but  a  few  geographical  miles  apart.  Certain 
of  the  N.  currents  are  similar  to  the  Labrador  current  along 
the  North  American  coast,  in  that  they  bring  with  them  a 
great  w^th  of  fine  fish,  mollusks,  Crustacea,  and  other 
valuable  marine  creatures;  the  catching,  preparation,  and  sale 
of  which  give  employment  to  thousands  of  Japanese,  Koreans, 
And  Clunese,  ana  add  immense  riches  to  the  three  nations. 

Hot  Mineral  Springs  (onsen  ;  ideyu)  abound  in  Japan  and 
ue^  the  surface  expressions  of  the  intense  volcanic  energy 
,*)iieh  everywhere  underlies  it.  Of  the  thousand  or  more  known 
fringi  (430  of  which  are  of  medicinal  value),  saline,  8\iip\iMr , 


cxlviii  MINES 

and  acid  waters  predominate  r—  ranging  in  temperature  from 
icy  cold  to  220°  F.  The  hot  sulphur  springs  usually  occur  on 
the  slopes  of  dying  or  quiescent  volcanoes,  most  often  ttom 
2000  to  3000  ft.  above  the  sea  level.  The  solfataras  are  g»i- 
erally  classified  as  Big  Hells  {o-jigoku)  or  Little  Hells  (A^- 
jigoku),  and  with  then:  accompanying  springs  are  used  by 
ailing  Japanese  in  thousands,  of  both  sexes,  who  often  bathe 
in  them  m  innocent  promiscuity.  The  higher  the  temperature 
of  the  water,  the  greater  sanatory  qualities  the  nativies  think 
it  possesses,  and  it  is  not  unusual  for  bathers  to  enter  pools 
heated  naturally  to  120®  F.  The  Yvbanay  or  *  hot-water 
flowers,'  deposited  in  the  solfataras  are  taken  home  bv  aUing 
ones  and  used  in  a  similar  way  to  the  Sprudel  Salts  of  Karls- 
bad. The  iron  deposits  are  used  for  dyeing  cloth.  While 
certain  of  the  springs  are  marked  by  a  geyser-like  rhythm  of 
ebb  and  flow,  there  is  but  one  real  geyser  in  the  Empire  (at 
Atami),  Certain  of  the  cold  springs  (notably  the  Tcmsan 
Spring  at  Takaradzvka,  near  Kobe),  produce  delicious  table- 
water  which  is  exported  to  many  parts  of  the  world. 

Mines.  —  Mining  for  coal,  gold,  silver,  and  copper  is  said 
to  have  been  carried  on  as  early  as  the  7th  cent.  Many  mines 
were  opened  during  the  15th  cent.,  but  as  the  tools  used  by 
the  miners  (kariekori)  consisted  only  of  a  hammer  and  a  wedge, 
the  workings  were  on  a  small  scale.  That  the  old  mines  were 
productive  is  evidenced  by  the  writings  (in  1779)  of  Kaempfer, 
who  says  that  between  1600  and  1641  the  Dutch  traders  car- 
ried away  a  yearly  average  of  50  tons  of  silver  valued  at  over 
£411,700;  and  that  later  they  exchanged  their  wares  for  eopper 
only  and  carried  away  about  1000  tons  a  yr.  In  10  yrs.,  wntea 
Arai  Hahuseki  (in  1708),  Hhis  empire  is  drained  of  all  Uie 
gold,  silver,  and  copper  (to  the  value  of  £2,250,000)  extracted 
&om  the  mines  during  the  sway  of  leyasu  and  since  his  time; 
mainly  exchanged  for  trinkets  and  gewgaws.'  The  first  explo- 
sives used  in  mining  were  introduced  in  1872  by  an  Amencan 
named  PumpeUy  (counselor  of  the  Gov't  Mining  Dep't),  who 
used  an  explosive  in  a  lead  mine  in  Yezo.  In  1868,  Nabeshima, 
the  feudal  lord  of  Saga  Province,  in  conjunction  with  an  Enj^- 
lishman  named  Glover,  sunk  the  first  European  shaft  (in 
Sakashima).  After  the  Restoration  the  Imperi^d  Gov't  took 
over  the  mining  industry  and  placed  the  chief  mines  and 
collieries  under  the  Bureau  of  Mining  (Kozankyoku),  For- 
eigners were  employed,  Occidental  systems  of  mining,  smelt- 
ing, and  transportation  were  adopted,  and  at  the  same  time 
(1^72)  an  engmeering  school  for  instruction  in  mining  and 
metallurgy  was  estabfished.  When  these  sciences  had  received 
the  impetus  aimed  at  by  the  Gov't,  the  latter  began  releasing 
the  mines,  to  be  workea  under  private  ownership.  Since  1900| 
forei^ers  have  been  able  legally  to  hold  mining  concessionB, 
provided  they  work  under  Japanese  laws.   The  mining  law 


MINES  cxlh 

lecognizes  as  miberals  and  mineral  ores:  gold  (exdusiye  of 
placer-gold),  sUver,  copper,  lead^  tin  (sand  tin  excluded), 
liematite,  antimony,  quicksilver,  zmc,  iron  (with  the  exception 
of  iron  sand),  manganese  and  arsenic,  plumbago,  coals,  kero- 
sene, sulphur,  bismuth,  phosphorus,  peat,  and  asphalt.  Saj[id- 
ore  diggings  are  distinguished  by  law  from  other  kinds  of  ore, 
and  no  foreigner  is  allowed  to  hold  an  interest  in  this  industry. 
The  scope  ofa  concession  has  been  limited  to  a  minimum  of 
10,000  tsitbo  and  a  maximum  of  600,000  Uubo  for  coal;  and 
from  3000  to  600,000  tsubo  for  other  minerals.  The  chief 
exports  frdm  the  mines  are  cosd  and  copper. 

CoppEB  (dOf  or  akagane  —  'red  metal 0  is  one  of  the  great- 
est national  assets,  as  Japan  is  now  the  2d  largest  producer 
(the  U.S.  is  1st)  of  the  world's  annual  output  of  copper.  The 
number  of  mines  producing  over  60  tons  each  of  blister  copper 
(specially  valued  for  its  purity)  per  yr.  is  48;  the  annual  output 
being  upward  (increasing  steadily)  of  55,000  tons.  The  Asnio 
Mme  (Kte.  14)  and  the  Besshi  Mine  (Rte.  38)  are  among  the 
largest  producers.  German  and  American  machinery  is  used. 
The  3  principal  veins  (of  the  30  or  more)  of  the  former  mine 
(33,20,  and  6  ft.  respectively)  are  found  in  liparite  of  the 
Palaeozoic  strata.  The  Besshi  mine  is  in  the  Do-san,  or  copper 
mountain,  celebrated  throughout  the  country.  The  ore  is 
copper  pyrite,  with  considerable  iron  pyrites.  Copper  is  sel- 
dom found  native  or  in  oxydized  form  m  Japan;  the  principal 
ores  are  chalcopyrite  and  bornite;  iron  pyrites  and  zinc  blende 
being  almost  always  present,  often  with  galena.  A  complex 
sulphide  ore,  composed  of  a  close  mixture  of  barite  zinc  blende 
and  galena,  and  often  containing  pyrites  and  chalcopyrites,  is 
widely  distributed  in  Japan.  The  gold  and  silver  found  in  it 
add  to  its  value. 

Coal  («cfciton),  which  with  copper  forms  80%  of  the  mineral 
output  of  Japan  (total  value  110  million  yen  a  year),  is  found 
in  many  pl£u;es,  and  upward  of  16  million  tons,  valued  at 
approx.  56  million  yeUy  are  mined  annually.  The  largest  coal 
mines  (sekUan-kd)  are  in  Kyushu,  where  the  finest  quality  is 
produced.  Unlike  the  coal-producing  formation  in  Europe 
and  America,  where  the  coal  is  found  in  the  Carboniferous 
strata  Qater  era  of  the  Palaeozoic  age),  the  oldest  of  the  coal- 
bearing  seams  in  Japan  are  in  the  rocks  of  the  Mesozoic  era, 
and  its  origin  is  of  lacustrine  formation.  Many  leaf  impressions 
of  deciduous  plants  are  found  in  the  shales  accompanying  it. 

Oil  (sekitari'-yu)  is  found  in  various  parts  of  the  country  and 
occurs  chiefly  in  the  Eocene  of  the  Tertiary  formation,  although 
it  is  encountered  in  small  quantities  in  the  diluvium  and  allu- 
yium.  It  is  usually  contained  in  shale  and  sandstone  between 
impervious  layers  under  pressure,  so  that  it  escapes  sometimes 
maer  considerable  force.  The  wells  vary  in  depth  from  300  to 


d  THE  CONSTITUTION 

2000  ft.  The  crude  product  resembles  more  closely  the  Rusriaa 
and  Calif omian  oil  rather  than  that  of  Pennsylvania,  and  it 

Erovides  about  50%  burning  oil.  Each  year  adds  to  the  num- 
er  of  fields  and  the  output.  Natural  gas  issues  from  numerooB 
places  in  Japan.  The  annual  production  of  gold,  silver,  iron, 
and  petroleum  ranges  between  4  and  5  million  yen  in  valofi* 
Cinnabar  and  quicl&ilver  are  produced  in  the  Hokkaidd. 

IV.  The  Constitution.  Flag.  National  Hymn. 
People.  Newspapers.  Geisha.  Beggars.  Thieves. 

The  Constitution  ^  of  Japan  (SeUai)y  promulgated  Feb.  Ui 
1889,  provides  that  the  Empire  shall  be  reigned  over  and 
governed  'by  a  line  of  Emperors  unbroken  for  ages  eternal |r 
the  executive  power  is  therefore  vested  in  the  Emperor,  BSid  10 
exercised  by  hun  through  ten  ministers  whom  he  appoints  and 
who  are  responsible  to  him.  The  Imperial  Throne  is  succeeded 
to  by  male  descendants  in  the  male  line  of  Imperial  ancestor 
—  customarily  by  the  Imperial  eldest  son.  Upon  the  accesaop 
to  the  throne  a  new  era  tTiengo)  is  inaugurated  (a  system  modi- 
fied at  the  time  of  the  Restoration),  and  the  name  of  it  remains 
unchanged  during  the  whole  reign.  The  present  (1914)  era  of 
Taishoj  or  'Great  Justice,'  succeeded  (in  1912)  the  MeUL  or 
era  of  'Enlightened  Rule.'   The  son  of  the  Emperor  wno  is 
Heir-apparent,  is  called  Kotaishi  (or  Kotaishi  denka^  *  Ifis 
Highness  the  Prince  Imperial ') ;  if  the  Heir-apparent  is  the 
Imperial  grandson,  he  is  called  Kotaison;  both  attain  their 
majority  at  18.  Should  the  Emperor  be  a  minor,  a  Regency  is 
instituted.  The  Imperial  Family  usually  includes  tiie  Grand 
Empress-Dowager;  the  Empress-Dowager;  the  Empress;  the 
Kotaishi  and  his  consort;  the  Imperial  Princes  and  their  con- 
sorts; the  Imperial  Princesses;  the  Princes  and  their  consorts; 
and  the  Princesses.  The  members  of  the  Imperial  Family  are 
under  the  control  of  the  Emperor,  who  is  saia  to  support  them 
all.  From  his  funded  property  (supposed  to  amount  to  about 
50  million  yen)  he  grants  handsome  sums  with  patents  of 
nobility;  makes  liberal  allowances  to  cabinet  ministers  by  way 
of  supplement  to  their  salaries;  pays  the  honoraria  that  goes 
witii  orders  and  medals;  gives  large  amounts  to  charity,  and 
devotes  considerable  sums  to  the  encouragement  of  art. 

The  present  Mikado,  YoahihitOt  who  is  124th  of  the  line  from  Jimmu 
Tennd,  and  who  succeeded  to  the  mikadoate  July  30, 1912,  was  bom  inT6- 
kyO  Aug.  31, 1879,  and  is  the  3d  son  of  the  late  Emperor  Mutsuhito.  He  WM 
married  May  23,  1900,  to  Princeaa  Sadako  (who  is  5  yrs.  younger),  the  4th 

>  The  C<Hi8titutioii,  a  famous  document  sometimes  referred  to  bb  Um 
'Magna  Charta  of  Japanese  Liberty,'  replaced  the  feudal  system  (abdUaihed 
in  1871)  of  the  Tokuifawa  ShdQunate  (overthrown  in  1868),  and  was  dtmwn 
up  chiefly  by  Marmtis  ltd  Hirobumi^  and  Barona  Suuematsu  and  JTofMte. 
The  law  of  local  flelf-govemment  for  cities,  towns,  and  villages  became  < 
Mtiv9  April  1, 1889. 


GOVERNMENT  di 

■ 

ughter  of  Prince  Ku)6  Michiiaka,  He  speakB  Engliah  and  Frenofa  and 
Hes  poetry. 

The  wotd  *  Mikado '  is  derived  from  mt\  *  exalted,*  and  X»do, '  door  *  (aa 
the  SMinu  Porte) .  The  Ctuneee  characters  employed  to  express  liie  term 
•n  *  Honorable  Gate.*  The  notion  is  that  the  Mikado  is  too  far  above 
unary  mortals  to  be  spoken  of  directly:  hence  the  Gate  of  the  Palace  is 
xl  as  a  figure  for  him.  As  it  is  considered  disrespectful  to  call  an  empetor 
his  name,  the  Ji4>anese  Elmperor  is  known  coUoquiiJly  as  Tenahi  Sama 
k>n  (rf  Heaven').  Rulers  of  other  nations  are  called  Kolei  ('August 
iperor ').  The  custom  of  giving  a  canonical  name  (okurina)  to  an  £m- 
t>r  i^ter  his  death  or  abdication  (a  name  signifying  some  cnaracteristio 
ieh  distinguished  him  or  his  reign)  was  introduced  from  China  in  the  8th 
tt.,  when  a  scholar  named  Mifune  selected  (by  the  order  of  the  Emperor 
oammu)  oanonical  names  for  all  the  Emperors  down  to  that  time.  An 
ipress  regnant  is  styled  TennO  (*  Heavenly  Augustness'). 

In  theory  the  Japanese  Gov't  is  patriarchal.  The  Emperor 
the  sire;  his  officers  the  responsible  elders  of  the  provinces, 
^fectures,  and  departments,  as  a  father  of  a  household  is  of 
inmates.  Its  policy  toward  the  people  (kdmin)  is  unusually 
Qevolent  and  paternal,  few  gov'ts  being  more  genuinelv 
icitous  of  the  welfare  of  its  children.  In  practice  the  gov  t 
I  bureaucracy,  as  the  leaders,  being  responsible  only  to  the 
aperor,  cannot  be  dismissed  by  the  people  in  a  direct  way. 
Beside  a  Privy  Council  (Sumitayrin),  which  is  composed  of 
.tesmen  of  wisdom  and  experience,  who  are  consulted  by 
I  Emperor  on  important  matters,  the  Imperial  Cabinet 
'aikaku)f  whose  tenure  of  office  depends  solely  upon  the  will 
1  pleasure  of  the  Sovereign,  is  ap^inted  by  him  and  cannot 
dismissed  by  Parliament.  This  consists  of  the  Prime 
nister,  or  Premier  (salary  ¥10,000  a  yr.);  the  Minister  of 
reign  Affairs  (whose  office,  the  GaimuahOy  is  usually  called 
reign  Office) ;  Minister  of  the  Interior  ( Naimusho,  or  Home 
ptO;  Minister  of  Finance  (Qkurasho,  or  Financial  Dept.); 
nister  of  War  (Rihugunshoj  or  War  Dept.);  Minister  oi  the 
yy  {KaigunshOy  or  Dept.  of  the  Navy);  Minister  of  Justice 
.uioihOf  or  Dept.  of  Justice);  Minister  of  Education 
ombushOf  or  Dept.  of  Education);  Minister  of  Agriculture 
I  Commerce  {Noshomitahdj  or  Dept.  of  A.  and  C);  and 
nister  of  Communications  {Teishinsho,  or  Dept.  of  C),  who 
k  officially  in  the  order  named.  To  these  should  be  added 
Kunaisho.  or  Imperial  Household  Dept.  located  within 
compound  of  the  Imperial  Palace.  The  Imperial  Gov't 
\  Bureau  (Tetsudo^n)  is  under  the  control  of  the  Dept.  of 
nmunications.  English  might  be  said  to  be  the  official 
guage,  since  it  is  spoken  in  all  the  depts.  Most  of  the  above 
resent  a  modified  revival  of  the  system  of  the  Six  Boards, 
tMluced  from  China  in  the  7th  cent.,  just  as  the  local  admin- 
ative  system,  though  bearing  a  striking  likeness  to  that  of 
nee,  is  likewise  an  Captation  of  the  early  Chinese  method. 
lie  choice  of  the  Premier  is  determined  by  various  political 
KHDB,  and  the  other  ministers,  who  are  appointed  on  Icoa 
108^  ave  usually  supposed  to  share  Ma  political  viewB.  Tbe 


du  GOVERNMENT 

Diet  (or  Parliament)  is  comprised  of  two  houses  —  a  House  of 
Peers  {Kizoburdn),  and  a  House  of  Representatives  (Shilgi4n). 
It  is  convened  every  year;  the  session  lasts  3  mos.,  said  majr  be 
prolonged  b^  Imperial  order.  When  urgent  necessity  anaes. 
an  extraordinary  session  may  be.  convoked.  The  House  of 
Peers,  with  300  or  more  members,  consists  partially  of  non- 
elected  and  partiallv  of  elected  members.  IMnces  and  Mar- 
quises (some  55  in  all)  sit  by  right  of  heredity  and  title;  in  this 
non-elective  section  are  also  120  or  more  Imperial  nominees, 
selected  by  the  Sovereign  from  among  men  of  conspicuous 
erudition  or  pubhc  services,  who  sit  for  life.  To  the  elective 
section  belong  Counts,  Viscounts,  and  Barons,  who  are  elected 
by  their  respective  orders;  and  representatives  of  the  highest 
taxpayers  elected  by  their  class,  each  prefecture  returning  one 
member. 

The  House  op  Representatives  (or  House  of  Commons)  is 
composed  of  members  (about  380)  elected  by  the  peopte 
(Japanese  subjects  25  yrs.  of  age  and  over,  and  who  pay  taxes 
of  ¥10  a  yr.  or  more)  according  to  the  provisions  of  the 
Election  Law.  Both  the  Upper  (toembers  elected  for  7  yrs.) 
and  the  Lower  House  (members  elected  for  4  yrs.)have  each 
a  President  nominated  by  the  Sovereign  from  among  three 
names  selected  by  the  House.  —  The  head  of  a  dept.  is  usually 
assisted  by  a  Jikwan  (literally 'next  oflBcialO,  usually  tnutt- 
lated  as  Vice-Minister.  The  latter  does  not  necessarily  change 
with  the  Minister,  notwithstanding  he  is  so  much  idientified 
with  his  policy,  —  for  he  has  the  ri^t  to  speak  in  the  Diet  for 
or  against  any  measure  connected  with  the  dept.,  by  the  order 
or  with  the  consent  of  the  Minister,  and  generally  acts  for  the 
Minister  in  the  -  committees,  for  personal  or  other  reasons. 
At  present  it  is  more  usual  for  a  Vice-Minister  to  retire  with 
the  Minister  than  to  remain  under  the  next  Minister.  Below 
the  Vice-Ministers  there  are  directors  of  bureaus^  secretarieSi 
councilors  in  all  the  depts.,  besides  certain  officials  who  are 
peculiar  to  certain  depts. 

Under  the  direct  control  of  the  Imperial  Cabinet  are  the 
Bureau  of  Decorations  (dealing  with  awards  of  orders,  medals, 
etc.);  the  Legislative  Bureau  (which  drafts  projects  of  laws 
and  Imperial  Ordinances);  the  Pension  Bureau,  and  the 
Statistical  and  Official  Gazette  Bureaus.  Attached  also  to  the 
Cabinet  is  the  State  Higher  Civil  Service  Examination  Com- 
mission, which  examines  candidates  for  all  Higher  State  Civil 
Service,  excepting  the  Diplomatic  Service  —  for  which  exam- 
inations are  held  under  a  different  commission  in  the  Dept. 
of  Foreign  Affairs.  State  officials  are  divided  into  3  classes, 
according  to  their  mode  of  appointment:  the  Chokunin  (who 
are  appointed  by  the  Emperor  on  the  recommendation  of  the 
Cabinet) ;  the  Sonin  (who  are  appointed  by  the  Sovereign  on 
this  recommend&iion  of  the  head  of  a  dept.);  and  the  Hannm^ 


GOVERNMENT  cliii 

whose  appointments  are  made  Iw  the  head  of  a  dept.,  or  some^ 
times  even  a  lower  authority.  The  two  former  are  classed  as 
bish  officials.  The  Cabinet  Ministers,  Privy  Councilors,  and 
&  few  others  are  called  Shinnin,  The  average  life  of  a  Cabinet 
is  2  vrsi ;  to  date,  the  longest  has  Uved  4  yrs.  and  8  mos. 

The  Empire  proper  (exclusive  of  Yezo  and  the  Kuriles; 
Formosa,  and  Korea)  was  originally,  for  political  purposes, 
divided  (by  Svjin  Termd,  97-30  b.c,  so  it  is  said)  into  pro- 
vinces (kuni),  of  which  there  are  at  present  84  (mentioned 
hereinbefore).  For  its  better  administration  it  is  now  parceled 
,  into  3 /u  (Chinese:  4arge  department')  or  metropohtan  dis- 
tricts (Toky5,  Kyoto,  and  Osaka),  and  43  prefectures  {ken; 
Chinese:  Nan,  or  'walled  inclosure')y  each  presided  over  by 
prefects,  or  prefectural  governors'  (chiji)^  appointed  by  the 
Emperor  on  the  reconunendation  of  the  Cabinet.  Besides 
forming  divisions  of  the  state  local  administration,  they  are 
tiiC  largest  self-governing  bodies,  with  perhaps  the  exception 
of  Korea.  Formosa,  and  Yezo,  each  of  which  is  administo^  as 
a  dependency  with  its  own  prefectures.  In  each  ken  —  which 
are  often  named  for  the  principal  towns  within  them,  and  which 
as  often  embrace  one  or  more  provinces  —  there  is  a  prefec* 
tural  assembly,  composed  of  members  elected  by  the  people 
every  4  yrs.  The  number  of  members  is  30  in  a  prefecture 
with  a  population  under  700,000,  increasing  by  one  for  every 
50,000  above  this  up  to  1  nuUion,  and  for  every  70,000  over 
1  million.  Each  ken  (or  state),  exclusive  of  the  shi  (cities),  is 
Mibdivided  into  gun  (districts  or  counties)  or  sub-prefectures 
having  over  each  a  guncho,  or  sub-prefect,  appointed  by  the 
Emperor  on  the  recommendation  of  the  Minister  ci  the 
Interior :  and  a  sub-pref  ectural  assembly  composed  of  members 
dected  by  the  people.  The  districts  are  further  subdivided 
bto  c/io  or  machi  (towns)  and  son  or  mura  (villages).  The  shi 
(which  are  subdivided  into  ku  or  wards),  the  cho,  and  the  son 
(or  cho^on)  are  corporate  bodies  with  complete  self-governing 
powers.  In  a  shi  the  administration  is  conducted  by  a  shi-chd 
(mayor)  who  is  appointed  (by  the  Minister  of  the  Interior)  for 
a  term  of  6  yrs.:  by  ass^t  mayors  (3  in  Tokyo,  2  in  Kyoto,  and 
1  in  Osaka)  and  elected  by  the  assembly.  A  cho  or  son  is  gov- 
erned by  a  cho-cho,  or  son-cho  (mayor  or  headman),  elected 
by  the  assembly  for  a  term  of  4  yrs.  A  prefectural  office  is 
called  a  kencho.  The  Municipal  Code  (shisei)  and  a  town  and 
village  code  (cho-sonsei)  were  issued  in  1888;  the  District  Code 
iffunsei)  appeared  in  1898.  Gov't  grafters  (or  *rats  under  the 
altar,'  as  the  Chinese  proverb  puts  it)  are  commendably  rare. 
The  gov't  revenues  —  collected  from  taxation  (including  a 
stamp-tax),  the  customs-houses,  the  railway,  salt,  camphor, 
and  tobacco  monopolies,  and  from  other  sources  —  amount 
Cn  a  nonnal  year)to  about  500  million  yen ;  expenses  are  oitei\> 
BMW  than  w^.  The  war  which  Japan  was  obliged  to  uiidct- 


cav  FLAG  AND  NATIONAL  HYMN 

take  with  Russia  in  order  to  protect  her  existence  as  a 
nation  added  enormously  to  the  national  debt,  which  is 
about  2  billion  yen.  An  expensive  army  and  navy  add  ma 
ally  to  the  burden  of  taxation. 

Under  the  present  i»t>Kressive  Gov't,  universities,  ooU 
and  schools  of  various  grades  dot  the  country  and  are  attei 
(compulsory)  by  97%  of  the  native  children  of  school  age 
all  girls'  schools  the  following  woman's  educational  song  < 
posed  of  a  poem  written  by  the  Empress  (Dowag^)  in  1 
and  set  to  music,  is  sung  on  appropriate  occasions:  — 

*Migaka  euba,  *  If  we  polish  not 

Tama  mo  Kagami  mo  A  gem  or  a  mirror 

Nani  ka  sen,  What  good  will  it  be? 

Manahi  no  michi  mo  With  the  way  of  leaminc 

Kaku  ko80  ari  kere.*  It  is  the  same.' 

the  National  Flag  ( Hinomaru-^no-haia.  or  flag  —  hala  - 
the  hinomaruy  or  red  ball  representing  tne  sun)  was  ado] 
in  1859  to  distinguish  the  ensign  of  commerce  from 
Imiperial  flag.  It  shows  a  brilliant  red  ball  on  a  white  groi 
ana  is  perchance  sjrmbolic  of  the  purity  of  the  'Laiiaof 
Rising  Sun.'  The  War-Flag  shows  a  red  sun  radiating 
beams  to  the  edge  of  a  white  field.  A  gold  chrysanthen 
Ocika)  oh  a  purple  ground  shows  on  the  standard  borne  be 
the  Mikado,  and  also  forms  the  Imperial  Crest  {Kiku 
haiMHfnon)  corresponding  to  the  coat-of-arms  in  Euro] 
heraldry.  It  replaced,  in  1868,  the  trefoil  crest  of  the  Toku/^ 
feudataiv,  and  is  representeid  by  16  rounded  petals,  w 
radiate  mnn  a  small  circle  in  the  center,  and  which  at  1 
oiiter  edges  are  rounded  and  connected  by  16  tiny  arcs 
reprawnt  a  second  circle  of  flower  radii.  Some  author 
believe  that  it  is  a  modified  form  of  the  Wheel  of  the  I 
others  that  it  is  an  emblem  of  the  sun,  since  the  niunbc 
petals  corresponds  to  the  number  of  rays  which  proceed  i 
the  sun  depicted  on  the  war-flag.  The  number  is  believed 
to  have  been  select^  at  haphazard,  since  it  is  one  of  t 
produced  by  multiplying  two  by  itself,  of  which  there 
examples  in  the  four  cardinal  points;  the  8  kwa^  or  diagn 
of  Chinese  philosophy;  the  32  points  of  the  compass;  and 
64  hexagrams  of  the  Yih-king.  Surface  indications  are  th 
is  merely  a  differentiation  of  the  order  of  ideas  symboliie 
the  old  Korean  flag  (see  the  index).  So  far  as  is  knowi 
chrysanthemum  appeared  for  the  first  time  upon  the  hi 
a  sword  belonging  to  the  Emperor  Gotoha  (1186-98).  It  d 
frequently  now  on  sov't  documents,  banners,  coins,  etc., 
its  use  is  interdicted  to  the  public. 

A  second  crest  {KirirruHnum)  of  a  more  private  chara 

and  used  by  the  fainily  of  the  Mikado,  represents  three  k 

and  clusters  of  flowers  of  the  Paidownia  tmperialis,  a  gen 

ornamental  trees  of  the  fainily  Scrophulariacese,  named 

Anna  Paulouma,  daughter  of  the  Czar  Paul  I. 


THE  PEOPLE  dv 

The  leaves  are  put  tofether  like  those  of  the  clove,  and  are  oonnected 
i  ttfoufh  their  oenlral  nerves  by  a  ring.  Of  the  3  clusters  of  flowers  which  rise 
Ivmnetrioally  above  the  grouped  leaves,  the  central  one  bears  7  flowers, 
I  ud  each  of  the  lateral  ones  6.  When  individualB  of  the  conunonalty  copy 
!  fUi  erest  they  usually  emidoy  5  and  3  flowers  instead  of  7  and  5.  The  tree, 
itiunigh  not  indi|[enous,  is  a  striking  and  oft-recurring  feature  in  Japanese 
kadaoapes.  It  is  largely  cultivated  for  its  light  wood,  much  used  in  the 
laiiuifacture  of  laoquer-wares,  bric-ll-brac,  tfeta^  cabmet-drawers,  play- 
tidngB,  and  many  small  boxes,  etc.  It  is  remarkably  strong  and  does  not 
I  Wp  easily.  As  if  cognisant  of  the  Imperial  favor  and  of  its  own  dignit^^, 
<  ftetiee  is  rarely  if  ever  found  in  groves,  or  otherwise  like  a  forest  tree,  but  is 
■tts  (rften  seen  standing  alone,  or  at  some  distance  from  its  companions. 
I  Ibe  flowere  are  of  a  beautiful  lilac  or  lij^t  purple,  and  at  a  distance  look  like 
tMalpa.  They  are  fragrant,  resemble  in  form  those  of  the  '  lion's  mouth,' 
j  Bd  achieve  periection  in  May.  A  peculiarity  is  that  toward  the  end  of 
■mmer  -Uie  flower-buds  of  the  next  season  form  on  the  branches.  The  large, 
I  kart-shaped  leaves  simulate  those  of  the  kindred  oatalpa  varieties,  but 
'  ne  a  darker  green,  and  appear  earlier.  The  tree  loves  the  south,  and 
lioeB  in  the  north. 

The  Japanese  National  Hjrmn  ( Kimi  ga  yo)  has  been  trans- 
wed  by  rroj,  BasU  HaU  Chamberlain,  as  follows:  Kimi  oa 
Pwa  Chiyo  ni  Yachiyo  ni  SazareUhi  no  Iwawo  to  nari  te  Koke 

^  mu8u  made:  *A  thousand  years  of  happy  reign  be  thine: 
I  Rule  on,  my  lord,  till  what  are  pebbles  now  |  By  age  united 

to  mighty  rocks  shall  grow  I  Whose  venerable  sides  the  moss 

<bth  Ime.' 

The  People  (comp.  bdv.,  Ixxix).  Ten  different  native  races 
Qwell  withm  the  Japanese  Empire  between  the  habitat  of  the 
QlghaUen  GiryaJca  and  the  head-hunters  of  Formosa,  and  of 
tt»e  the  Nipponese  proper  are  the  most  numerous.  Scattered 
iQiong  the  50  million  subjects  (27,000  of  whom  are  lunatics; 
70,OOO  blind ;  and  60,000  always  in  prison)  are  18,000  foreigners, 
^  9000  Chinese,  2500  British,  1700  Americans,  800  Germans, 
60O  French,  and  the  remainder  divided  among  33  different 
nations.  The  last  4  nationalities  cited  are  a  picked  class  above 
the  average  in  intelligence.  Half-castes  (called  generally  by 
the  more  euphemistic  term  'Eurasians')  are  numerous  and 
aie  represented  by  persons  one  of  whose  parents  is  European, 
or  of  pure  European  descent,  and  the  other  Asiatic.  Th^e  are 
about  102  men  for  every  100  women,  and  with  the  exception 
of  the  U.S.  and  Russia  the  population  increases  (now  1.37% 
per  annum,  against  2^%  for  the  entire  century  which  ended 
with  1846)  at  a  more  rapid  rate  than  that  of  any  other  civilized 
country.  Upward  of  500  among  the  Japanese  are  millionaires, 
154  of  whom  live  in  T5ky5.  Despite  the  thousands  of  babies, 
'  with  little  soiled  faces  and  unattended  noses,'  which  one  sees 
on  the  streets  (the  open-air  nurseries  of  Nippon),  infant  mor- 
tality is  high.  Among  the  well-conditioned  classes  many  per- 
sona die  between  40  and  50  yrs.  of  age.  Notwithsts^oing 
their  lives  of  unremitting  toil,  some  of  the  heavy,  round-faced 
peasants  reach  the  century  mark.  All  age  early  in  life,  and 
there  is  a  notable  lack  of  hale  old  people. 

The  Ji^Mmese  have  been  described  so  often  and  80  mmuieV^ 


olvl  THE  PEOPLE 

by  superior  writers  that  no  effort  at  soul-vivisection  will 
attempted  here.  Almost  every  graphic  adjective  in  the  Engl 
language  has  been  applied  to  tiaem  at  one  time  or  another, 
cloying  praise  or  vitnolic  abuse  —  without  appreciable  r»uJ 
Whosoever  would  essay  to  know  them  and  to  get  along  wi 
them  must  first  divorce  from  his  mind  nine  tenths  of  t 
frothy  nonsense  written  about  them  by  enthusiastic  n 
inexact  impressionists,  and  consider  them  as  just  what  th 
appear  to  be  —  an  intensely  human,  earnest,  industrial 
proud,  clever,  amiable,  non-snobbish,  helpful,  friendly,  son 
lul,  untuneful,  non-whistling,  cheerful,  but  not  always  napp 
people.  They  are  not  all  artists  or  samvrai,  poets  or  Cheste 
nelos.  The  polished  gentleman  and  the  truculent,  uncultun 
boor  exist  side  by  side,  and  the  good  is  mixed  with  the  bad  in 
thoroughly  human  proportion  —  about  equal  to  that  in  the 
nearest  European  analogue,  the  high-strung,  whimsical,  wa 
derfully  artistic,  but  practical  and  likable,  French  natioi 
They  possess  qiialities  that  are  peculiarly  endearing  to  m 
pathetic  Occidentals,  who  read  in  their  faces  the  indoibl 
impress  which  20  centuries  of  strange  history  has  left  npo 
them. 

While  the  traveled  Japanese  is  as  broad-minded  as  any  oUk 
keen  observer,  and  appreciates  the  advancement  of  the  Well 
the  innocently  hidebound  stay-at-home  considers  chop-stkli 
decidedly  more  civilized  than  pronged  forks,  and  the  nftlil 
culture  and  customs  superior  to  all  others.  To  attempt  \ 
change  this  rigid  belief  is  Uke  arguing  against  the  Eouata 
Therefore,  the  traveler  who  approaches  Japan  in  a  toimn: 
non-critical,  appreciative  mood,  will  get  through  it  with 
minimum  of  friction,  and  while  enjoying  his  visit  as  he  wool 
perhaps  to  no  other  country  on  the  globe,  will  in  turn  leai 
pleasant  memories  wherever  he  stops. 

The  racial  dislike  for  Occidentals,  which  lies  near  to  the  hes 
of  all  Orientals,  is  admirably  repressed  by  the  sagadoi 
Japanese,  who  present  to  foreigners  a  front  much  more  plea 
ing  than  that  snown  by  other  tinted  races.  In  no  country 
consideration  for  aliens  or  the  code  of  social  courtesy  so  mm 
in  evidence,  and  the  people  as  a  whole  extend  this  \uigni4 
ingly  to  whosoever  visits  their  country  —  be  he  enemy  ( 
friend.  Fanatics  and  malevolent  persons  are  rarely  met.  I 
being  non-controversial  and  dignified;  by  refraining  frommi 
taking  the  people  for  Mongolians  and  calling  them  'Job 
or  *  Little  Japs  ,^  by  not  referring  to  them  as  'natives'  (jn, 
tribal  sense)  or  as  *  butterflies '  (which  assuredly  they  t 

1  The  people  dislike  being  called  *  Japs,'  as  they  consider  it  a  depiMi 
tive  term.  With  them  butterflies  are  symbols  of  inconstancy.  In  qiukI 
word  '  native,'  and  the  abbreviations  '  Jap '  and  *  Japs '  in  this  QuidMl 
the  author  has  aimed  only  at  euphony  and  economy  of  space.  He  miwiw 

diar^pect  to  the  Japanese  people,  for  whom  he  entertams  a  pntfound,!! 

unalterable  esteem. 


NEWSPAPEBS  dvii 

i  stranger  will  gain  the  esteem  of  those  whose  good 
s  worth  prizing.  In  dealing  with  the  Japanese  —  who 
tice  consider  themselves  the  equals  of  any  civilixed 
—  nothing  can  be  gained  by  arrogance  or  threats. 
I  and  forbearance  are  virtues  which  will  stand  the 
in  good  stead.  Courtesy  is  the  shibboleth  of  all  classes, 
lowest  coolie  (a  term  applied  to  the  imskilled  native 
usually  responds  to  it  instantly.  They  are  rightly  very 
to  profanity  when  applied  to  them,  and  as  theur  own 
!  offers  them  no  profane  equivalents,  they  sometimes 
by  physical  force.  An  appeal  or  a  request  in  Japan 
)  more  potent  than  a  command,  —  and  a  gentle  irony 
L  deeper  than  profanity  into  the  Japanese  soul, 
of  the  national  customs  are  the  results  of  more  than 
.  of  inheritance,  and  they  are  in  consequence  difficult 
away  from.  Some  are  so  superior  to  Occidental  prao- 
.t  it  were  a  pity  to  attempt  to  change  them.  Each 
will  form  his  own  opinion  of  their  ethical  worth  — 
linion  mav  or  may  not  prove  correct,  and  which  may 
be  discarded  entirdy  after  a  lengthy  stay  in  the  coun- 
ings  one  sees  in  Japan  are  not  always  readily  under- 
id  those  which  are  the  most  simple  in  appearance  are 
itinguished  by  an  almost  unbelievable  complexity, 
ui  one  effort  has  been  made  by  Westerners  to  uncover 
jiese  soul-stream,  but  usually  without  success.  The 
ifcadio  Heam,  who  was  one  of  the  greatest  Occiden- 
:7>reters  of  Japanese  motives  of  his  epoch,  wrote: 
ving  a  long  time  among  the  Japanese  I  know  and 
nd  them  no  better  now  than  the  first  day  I  landed 
hem.  The  spirit  of  the  nation  is  unique;  it  combines 
virtue  and  European  practicality.  The  Japanese  have 
I  all  of  our  civilization  and  yet  keep  it  concealed  under 
jr  and  poetry  of  ancient  Nippon.  From  this  union  of 
bly  discordant  characteristics  is  bom  an  inscrutable, 
and  mysterious  forcefulness/ 

Mipers  (shimhunshi)  are  found  in  every  Japanese  city 
tflUQce  (about  2000  in  the  Empire),  and  while  some  of 
mpare  favorably  with  the  great  journals  of  Europe 
enca,  others  constitute  the  real  *  Yellow  Peril '  of 
ional  relations.  Of  the  40  or  more  daily  newspapers 
in  the  vernacular  in  Toky5,  about  20  are  important. 
re  11  Press  Bureaus  in  the  metropolis  and  a  huge 
rablic  avid  for  news  of  the  outer  world  and  its  progress. 
io  2  sen  is  the  customary  retail  price,  and  the  newsboys 
dguished  by  clusters  of  small  bells  at  the  waist,  which 
the  wearers  speed  through  the  streets.  The  Japanese 
(of  T5kyo,  the  center  of  journalism  in  Japan) 


Host  frnuently  by  the  forei^  press  are  perbap«  tYie 
It  nB-  rafyJ  Asahi  C  Morning  Sun ') ,  a  compaxnot 


dviii  NEWSPAPERS 

sheet  of  the  excellent  Osaka  Asahi),  a  non-partlBaxi,  libon^ 
progretssiYe  and  dignified  journal  much  liked  by  tl^  bettor 
classes;  impartial  and  trustworthy.  The  Jiji  Shimpd  ("nmes'; 
'  Gazette '),  the  semi-ofiicial  organ  of  commerce  and  industayi 
finds  most  of  its  readers  among  ofiicials  and  business  moL 
Its  famous  founder  Yukichi  Fuhumway  the  Sage  of  Mitbk 
brought  it  to  a  high  standard  of  excellence  before  his  dealk 
The  Kokumin  Shimhun  (*  Nation'),  formerly  the  politial 
organ  of  a  certain  one-time  powerful  Cabinet,  devotes  ooft*. 
siderable  space  to  foreign  matters  (has  an  English  4ept.)(  ^ 
newsy,  progressive,  well  written,  and  has  a  daily  drculaiMB 
of  about  200,000.  It  is  essentially  a  citizen's  paper,  and  bf 
striving  to  interpret  foreign  advancement  introduces  nuKf 
new  ideas  to  the  Japanese.  The  Hdchi  Shimbun  C News')] ft 
saffron-hued  daily  (a.m.  and  p.m.  editions),  enjoys  a  wg 
circulation  among  the  Fourth  Estate  and  gratifies  its  feveni 
taste  by  war-talk  and  lurid  illustrations.  The  Yorodstu  ^ 
*  all  sorts  of  things ')  opposes  the  Grov't  and  frequentlv  <W 
its  editorial  pen  in  vitrioi.  The  Mainichi,  the  Nichi^Niad,  tb 
Niroku,  and  many  others  are  read  and  liked  by  separate  daM 
Illuminated  Sunday  Editions  containing  translations  of 
foreign  fiction  (French  novels  are  popular);  agony  eolumBik 
pornographic  pictures,  and  some  of  the  good  and  bad  featoni' 
of  Occidental  newspapers,  characterize  many  of  them,  and  al 
exercise  a  certain  influence  within  their  respective  sphiw- 
The  poor  paper  on  which  most  of  them  are  pnnted  is  made  B; 
Japan  (where  some  of  the  finest  paper  in  the>world  is  produoedj'l 
Newspapers  are  controlled  by  the  Press  Law,  which  is  liberv* 
There  are  a  number  of  lady  journalists  of  note. 

Whosoever  is  interested  in  Japanese  art  should  at  least  see  ft 
copy  of  the  richly  illustrated  monthly  magazine  known  to  ftit 
connoisseurs  tluroughout  the  world  as  The  Kokka,  andpub-' 
lished  by  The  Kokka  Co.y  Yazaemoncho,  Kyobashi-ku,  TDijfc; 
Though  somewhat  expensive  (¥2.50  a  copy,  with  40  ft* 
extra  for  foreign  postage),  each  number  (usually  aboat  tf 
pages)  contains  2  colored  plates  and  4  or  5  admirable  CjoBo* , 
type  reproductions  of  the  most  famous  paintings  or  ob|eeto ' 
(m  themselves  worth  the  price)  of  Japanese  art.  The  artiek> 
on  the  methods  employed  by  the  Japanese  in  the  applied  aflft 
are  highly  interesting.  The  Kokka  ranks  high  among  the  ta 
art  publications  of  the  world. 

Perchance  of  greater  interest  to  foreign  travelers  than  Ai 
vernacular  press  are  the  uniquely  excellent  dailies  (and  wetk 
lies)  printea  in  English  (and  German).  Some  of  them  are  TV 
table  mines  of  information  about  the  country,  its  people  9r^  ^ 
institutions,  as  they  are  conducted  by  scholarly  men  Yen 
equally  in  me  lore  of  the  East  and  the  affairs  of  Europe  i 
the  West.  Few  fordgners  Imow  the  highways  and  by^CMfl 
Japan,  or  imderstBAa  the  people  better,  than  thj^seiodmm ' 


NEWSPAPERS  dut 

individuals  have  wielded  so  powerful  an  influence  for 
the  progressive  upbuilding  <^  the  present  Eknpire. 
pprismg  foreigners  of  the  trend  of  the  undercturent 
nese  thou^t,  thev  perform  an  invaluable  work  for 
y  keeping  its  people  m  touch  daily  with  the  ideals  and 
(  of  tiie  Occident.  Most  of  the  papers  were  founded 
le  time  of  the  Restoration,  and  as  a  rule  each  possesses 
eristics  which  distinguishes  it  from  its  fellows.  These 
i  are  often  of  immediate  interest  to  visiting  Strang^; 
lous  among  them  are  the  foreign  cablegrams;  arriving 
ling  dates  of  the  principal  steamships;  daily  rates  of 
;e  Oo^  direct  value  to  travelers  carrying  letters  of  credit, 
le  whereabouts  (within  the  Empire)  of  tourists  (hotel 
3.)  J  valuable  information  (advertisements  and  special 
lating  to  the  different  hotels;  descriptions,  accompanied 
llent  dcetch  maps,  of  various  country  trips;  raUwav 
^les;  weather  reports;  and  many  minor  matters.  AU 
some  space  to  daily  happenings  in  China  and  the 
nes.  Particularly  noteworthy  features  of  the  leading 
pers  are  the  Weekly  Editions,  which  contain  in  a 
ied  form  the  political,  commercial^  financial,  and  gen- 
7S,  and  which  are  adapted  for  mailing  abroad  and  for 
I  records  of  the  daily  progress  of  events.  The  usual 
rtion  rate  for  the  daily  papers  is  10  8en  for  a  single 
1.60-2  a  month;  ¥12-24  a  year.  Postage  to  any  part 
n,  China,  or  Korea  (where  there  is  a  Japanese  P.O.), 
3xtra  per  month;  to  other  points  in  the  Postal  Union, 
For  the  weekly  edition,  25-30  sen  a  copy;  ¥1  a  month, 
per  annum.  Postage  in  Japan  50  sen  a  year  extra;  to 
or  America  ¥2-3  a  yr.  The  Directori^  issued  by 
of  the  papers  are  a  combination  of  year-book,  blue- 
tc.,  ana  contain  an  immense  amount  of  interesting 
tion  relating  to  the  country.  Trustworthiness  and 
bion  rather  than  sensationalism  are  salient  features  of 
ign  press  in  Japan. 

fapan  Chronicle,  the  leading  morning  daily  newspaper 
I  m  Kobe)  of  W.  Japan,  was  established  m  1868,  and 
I  for  its  briUiant  editorials;  its  progressive,  altruistic, 
character;  and  as  a  splendid  type  of  dignified  British 
sni  transplanted  to  alien  soil.  It  bears  practically  the 
ation  to  Japan  that  the  excellent  London  Standard  does 
and,  or  the  Boston  Evening  Transcript  to  New  Eng- 
ts  (Scotch)  editor  is  one  of  the  most  celebrated  living 
ogists. 

fapan  Advertiser  is  printed  every  morning  in  T5ky5. 
i  tvpical  Uve,  hustling,  newsy,  pithy,  adaptable,  and 
im  American  newspaper.  Its  management,  methods, 
dv  &B  Ajdoerican,  and  its  circulation  is  large  and  iat- 
IP^Julcqpindent  and  aggressive,  it  ia  a  power  in  tbd 


dx  NEWSPAPERS 

busiiiess  world  and  represents  the  highest  tvpe  of  f 
American  journalism  ia  the  Far  East.  It  stands  for  Uk 
ests  of  foreigners  of  whatever  nationality,  or  creed. 

The  Japan  Times,  also  published  every  morning  in '. 
is  ably  edited  (on  American  lines),  by  Motosada  Zvh 
Japanese  graduate  of  a  well-known  American  Univ< 
who  in  turn  is  a  somewhat  striking  example  of  the 
mindedness  and  astonishing  adaptability  of  a  certain  t 
progr^ive  Japanese.    That  an  attractive  newspaper 
be  written  and  printed  in  practically  faultless  Englis] 
staff  of  Japanese  writers  and  printers  in  the  sometime  ex- 
capital  of  the  old  Tycoons^  is  extraordinary  if  not  uniqw 
Seovl  PresSf  of  Seoul,  Korea,  is  perhaps  the  only  simib 
in  the  Far  East^  and  this  paper  was  also  established  I 
Zumoto.  The  object  of  both  (semi-official)  papers  is  to  in 
the  friendly  relations  between  Japanese  and  foreigners, 
enlighten  both  reciprocally  upon  the  undercurrent  of  tl 
at  home  and  abroad. 

The  Japan  Gazette,  an  erudite,  independent,  non- 
tional,  thoroughly  British  newspaper,  founded  in  ISi 
published  every  «5temoon  in  Yokohama,  is  of  unfailing 
est  to  travelers.  The  Wednesday  and  Saturday  editioi 
tain,  besides  the  usual  matter,  a  recapitulation  of  the 
doings  of  the  week  of  the  foreigners  in  Japan.  It  is  an  ao 
authority  on  all  matters  concerning  Kippon,  and  the 
Directory  (a  combination  of  cyclopaKiia,  social  blue-boo 
directory  combined),  published  every  January  (700 
price  ¥5)  in  connection  with  it,  is  the  best  of  its  kind 
valuable  as  a  reference  book. 

The  Japan  Daily  Herald,  an  afternoon  newspapei 
lished  aliso  at  Yokohama,  though  ably  edited  by  an  i 
journalist  widely  known  as  an  authonty  on  Japanese  a 
art,  defends  German  (as  well  as  British  and  American) 
ests  in  the  Far  East.  Travelers  will  often  find  in  its  cc 
vsduable  information  relating  to  walking-trips  througt 
Japan,  as  well  as  expert  criticism  on  the  art  products 
Empire.  It  was  founded  in  1861,  and  is  in  consequence 
the  oldest  foreign  dailies  in  Japan. 

The  Japan  Daily  Mail,  founded  in  1865  by  the  late 
Brinkley  (b.  1841;  d.  1912),  a  morning  paper  publis 
Tokyo,  is  known  far  and  wide  as  a  valuable  mirror  < 
temporaneous  Japanese  history.  It  is  of  sustained  inte 
the  student  of  art,  religion,  and  politics  in  Japan,  f 
weekly  summary  of  the  Japanese  religious  press  is  an  i 
able  aid  to  a  correct  understanding  of  the  progress  of 
tianity  among  the  Japanese.  Though  pro-Japanese  ii 
it  is  read  by  almost  every  foreigner  in  the  En4>ire 
hn21iant  exposition  of  Japanese  thought.    The  WsBSi 


GEISHA  cbd 

HON  is  a  riBview  of  Japanese  commerce,  politics,  literatuie, 
and  art. 

Other  journals  of  note  are  the  excellent  Kobe  Herald, 
mentioned  under  Kobe;  the  Nagasaki  Press;  the  Deutsch- 
Japan  Post  (publidbed  weekly  in  Yokohama,  in  Grerman) ;  the 
Par  East  (i>ublished  weekly  in  Tokyo,  in  English).;  the  Box  of 
Ciffios,  a  widely  known  and  popular  weekly  printed  at  Yoko-  - 
hama;  and  the  various  literary,  religious,  commercial,  and 
other  publications  issued  by  the  Methodist  Publishing  House, 
of  T6Ky6f  the  Liberal  News  Agency,  of  TokyS,  etc.  The  Japan 
Magazine,  an  illustrated  monthly  published  (in  English)  at 
T5kyo,  costs  ¥5  a  year  ($3  gold  in  the  U.S. A.  and  128.  in 
England). 

Geisha  (in  the  T5ky5  dialect  an  'accomplished  person'; 

e}  and  maiko  in  the  Osaka  and  Kyoto  dialect)  bear  more  or 
the  same  relation  to  life  in  Japan  that  nat^^-girls  do  to 
that  of  India,  and  ballad-singers  to  China.  They  came  promi- 
nently into  vogue  during  the  9th  cent,  when  their  prototypes, 
the  skirabiyoshi,  or  *  White-measure  Markers '  (so-callea 
because  tihey  appeared  originally  in  snow-white  robes,  carry- 
ing a  white-flheathed  sword  and  wearing  a  man's  head-dress) 
made  themselves  so  popular  at  the  Imperial  Court  that  the 
Emperor  Uda  *  took  one  of  them  to  his  arms,'  and  by  so  doing 
devated  and  popularized  their  profession.  Their  influence  has 
always  been  powerful,  and  it  is  recorded  that  in  1710,  dancing- 
girls  as  a  class  were  *  such  potent  perverters  of  good  morals 
that  the  authorities  endeavored  to  suppress  the  growing  evil 
by  prohibiting  the  teaching  of  dancing  under  penalty  of  expul- 
sion from  house  and  district.'  Despite  adverse  legislation  the 
geisha  throve  and  is  to-day  apparently  an  ineradicable  feature 
(rf  the  national  life.  Nearly  every  big  ward  in  T6ky6  has  its 
geisha  quarter  (geishoHnachi),  where  from  200  to  500  women 
are  visited  (usually  in  rnachiaiy  or  assignation  houses)  by  all 
classes.  Says  an  authority:  *  While  the  geisha  is  mistress  of  all 
the  seductive  arts,  seduction  is  not  necessarily  her  trade,  and 
whereas  she  never  forgets  to  be  a  lady,  she  takes  care  never 
to  be  mistaken  for  one.  Although  dancing  contributes  much 
to  her  grace  of  movement,  it  constitutes  only  a  minor  part  of 
her  prcnessional  rdle.  This  she  may  tread  lawfully  by  purchas- 
ing a  si>ecial  license  in  addition  to  her  geisha  ticket,  or  she  may 
foUow  it  in  secrecy  and  danger.  She  earns  hundreds  of  yen 
monthly,  for  if  she  ia  in  vogue,  she  has  invitations  to  "  present 
her  face  "  at  many  reunions  on  the  same  day.  A  banquet  is 
oonsid^ed  incomplete  without  geisha,  and  they  are  often  called 
in  to  enliven  a  simple  luncheon,  to  accompany  boatrn^- 
parlies,  etc.*  —  Yoreignera  usually  6nd  geisha  entertainmeiitA 
pain/uHr  destitute  of  mtereat  or  excitement.  The  "woraea 
ihemeehreB an  often  not  only  deBcient  in  good  looks,  but  aome^ 
r^  are  bMd  dancers  as  well.    Though  they  do  not  lead  t\ie 


cljdi  GEISHA 

life  of  vestal  virgins,  coquettish  ardor  and  pass'ioo  ruelyj 
themselves  in  their  dances.    Occidentals  soon  tire  W^ 
pantomimic  evolutions,  their  falsetto  voieea,  arid  their 
recitative  singing,  and  one  is  rarely  willing  Ut  eit 

second  perfonnanee.    In  his  somewhat  idealized  di 

of  life  in  Japan,  Mr.  LafcaMo  Heam  writes  (in   Glim] 
Unfamiliar  Japan,  vol.  n,  p.  525  et  acq.) : 

'  Notbing  ifl  more  nlont  thao  the  begianiog  of  a  JaponcH  banquet^l 

the'tumultuoiiB  enci^g^ThuTobed  guB8tt"tBke™iiBir™plaoMNq-^-" 
lesdy.  and  withaut   speech,  upon  the  kti^^ehiie-viiBhuiiiH.    Thi 
memoes  u¥  laid  upon  the  mailing  before  thom  by  maidesfl  v^" 
make  no  eou&d.  For  anhile  theiv  ia  only  bid iUoe  and  flitting, 

UBUsUy  BMludcd  from  th«  street  Ijy  spBciona  gBidsna.   At  last  the  mHliii  ^ 

i..  L-- jj™  brcati  tho  huBh  with  thejjonsoorBled  fo '-■ 

1  preaeot  ba>     ' 

,. , , ...    Jeftly  uaod,  ( 

benrdat  all.    The  maidenfl  pour  warm  Mitjr  into  the  cup  uf  each  eumviip 

em^ed.  ^d  aereral  curu  of  sake  aJMorbed.  timt  tongucA  are  looAmJed- 

'TbeD,  all  at  once,  with  a  littUr  bunt  of  laughteri^n  number  of  yoniic  ^^ 
finteri  make  tht  customary  proatratjoa  of  ereetiziB.  glide  into  the  ddbq  i^aM 
baiwBen  the  ranks  of  the  Eucsts,  end  bnia  to  serve  the  wine  wiui  n  itiB 
and  deirterity  of  which  do  oommoa  maidli  capable.  They  are  pretliyllM 

beautiful  dreued  hair  of  each  is  deckod  with  mock  flonera.  with  wooda- 
ful  combs  imd  pins,  nttdwith  curigm  ornnmenta  oC  Bold.  They  (reel  tta 
stranger  as  if  they  had  always  koowahim:  they  int,  laugh,  and  uttaituuv 
tittle  cries.    Those  are  the  Brinha.  or  dancin«-BU;]a.  bired  lor  the  baD«M(- 

the  farther  end  of  the  hanquBting^all,  slwaTS  vast  OBOiigh  to  admit  rfraig 

lamfien.  and  a  tiny  drum  played  by  a  child.  Others,  singly  or  in  pain,  pflf- 
fono  the  danno.  It  may  tw  swift  or  merry,  conBistJng  wholly  of  jriidiU 
pofltuiing.  —  two  girls  dancing  together  with  sucb  coincidence  of  abepva 
lieiton^ss  only  years  of  training  could  render  poaaible.  But  more  frcqutolll 

neoompanlod  with  eitraof dinary  waving  of  sleeves  and  fans,  andwithaplw 
of  eyes  and  features,  sweet,  subtle,  subdued,  wholly  Oriental.     Then  ta 

beloro HtRnodaudiencSTthey  portray  ben'utiful  old  JaEaneae  t™d™iis.in» 
the  legend  Of  the  fisher  Urashima  (p.  crliil,  bidoved  by  the  Sea  God's  du^ 
t«r;  and  at  intervals  they  sing  ancient  Chinese  poems,  eiprening  a  ninnd 
emotion  with  dcUcions  vividiieeB  by  a  few  eiquiiite  words.  Aad  aiinn 
they  pour  the  wine.  —  that  warm,  pale  yellnw,  drowsy  wine  which  Slis  IM 
~"""  """""""""  "  ""'  "  '' '~'  a  faint  sense  of  ecstAsy.  through  viilchi 

eoramonplooe  becomes  wondrow  am 
_  _jdiae,  and  the  world  much  sweeter  UM 

^  ^, -™.  _-..^,  ... .,.., ..  could  ever  possibly  be. 

'The  banquet,  at  first  so  silent,  slowly  changee  to  a  merry  tumuH.  IM 
oomiHnybn^B  ranks,  forms  groups:  and  from  group  to  group  thegirfvpsA 
laughing,  prattling,  —  still  pourir^  aake  into  the  outw  which  are  beiDg  er 
chaoged  (as  compflnieots  between  guests  and  friends)  and  emptied  with  b" 

even  dance.    A  gii'iAa  tucks  her  robe  well  up  to  tier  fcooes;  and  the  '!»•>■*' 
strikes  up  the  quick  melody,  Kompira  /iin0.-/urEff.    As  the  music  pli^  slA 
be^ns  to  run  lights  and  awift\y  \n  a  ^eur^  oi  ft.  a.wi  K^feAiait  man.  cftfi^^     f 
a  «rf«  boltleand  cup,  alBOnina  itilhB  Baniefi».iiiR  Q^ft.  WCiw  Wio iaoB.»     | 
a  liae,  tbeone  through  whose  errm  the  meoiiiift ^wwm ■«.«», iTiniafcwB«v 
«*«  The  miuBo  beeves  tiuickei«id^i^<Ji«"i4'i>>B™T««™™.V»»a<»* 


BEGGARS— THIEVES  cfadii 

ar  tboy  must  keep  time  to  the  melody;  and  the  ociaha  wins.  In  an- 
it  of  the  room,  guests  and  geisha  are  playing  ken.  They  sing  as  they 
anf  each  other,  and  clap  their  hands,  and  liing  out  their  fingers  at 
9  with  little  dies;  and  the  eamiaen  keep  time.  Now,  to  plajr  ktn  with 
requires  a  perfectly  cool  head,  a  quick  eye  and  much  practice.  Hav- 
i  trained  from  childhood  to  play  all  kmds  of  ken  —  and  there  are 

-  she  generally  loses  only  for  politeness,  when  ^e  loses  at  all.  The 
the  most  common  ken  are  a  Man,  a  Fox,  and  a  Gun.  If  the  geMui 
he  sign  of  the  Gun,  you  must  instantly,  and  in  exact  time  to  the 
lake  the  sign  of  the  Fox,  who  cannot  use  the  Gun.  For  if  you  make 
of  l&e  Man,  then  she  will  answer  with  the  sign  of  the  Fox,  who  can 
the  Man,  and  she  loses.  And  if  she  makes  the  sign  of  the  Fox  first* 
1  should  make  the  sign  of  the  Gun,  by  which  the  Fox  can  be  killed. 
h&  while  you  must  watch  her  bright  eyes  and  supple  hands.  These 
ty,  and  if  you  suffer  yourself,  just  for  one  fraction  of  a  second,  to 
m.  pretty  they  are,  you  are  bewitched  and  vanquished, 
ritnstanding  aU  this  apparent  comradeship,  a  certain  rigid  decorum 

guest  and  geisha  is  invariably  preserved  at  a  Japanese  banquet, 
r  flushed  with  wine  a  guest  may  become,  you  will  never  see  him 

to  caress  a  girl;  he  never  forgets  that  she  appears  at  the  festivities 
fc  human  flower,  to  be  looked  at,  not  to  be  touched.  The  familiarity 
>rei^  tourists  in  Japan  frequently  permit  Uiemselves  with  geisha 
waiter^^ls,  though  endured  with  smiling  patience,  is  really  much 

and  eonsidered  by  native  observers  an  evidenoe  of  extreme  vulgar- 
•  a  time  the  merriment  grows;  but  as  midnight  draws  near,  the  guests 
slip  away,  one  by  one,  unnoticed.  Then  the  din  graduidly  dies  down, 
ie  stops;  and  at  last  the  geisha,  having  escorted  the  last  of  the  feast- 
he  door,  with  laughing  cries  of  Saydnara,  can  sit  down  alone  to 
leir  long  fast  in  the  deserted  hall. 

gsisha  is  only  what  she  has  been  made  in  answer  to  foolish  human 
r  the  illusion  of  love  mixed  with  youth  and  grace,  but  withcmt  re- 
responsibilities  :  wherefore  she  has  been  taught,  besides  ken,  to  play 
}.  rfawt  the  eternal  law  is  that  people  may  play  with  impunity  at 
le  in  thiJs  imhappy  world  except  three,  which  are  called  Life,  Love, 
,th.  Those  the  gods  have  reserved  to  themselves,  because  nobody 
learn  to  piay  them  without  doing  mischief.  Therefore,  to  play  with 
any  game  more  serious  than  ken,  or  at  least  go,  is  displeasing  to  the 

;ar&  (kcjiki)  are  relatively  scarce  in  Japan,  as  there  is 
r  work  for  all  and  all  are  generally  wiUmg  to  work.  A 
inking,  wheedling  mendicants  congregate  about  the 
8  of  the  large  cities  and  at  popular  resorts,  but  they  are 
SIS  importunate  as  the  foreign  beach-comoers  of  Yoko- 

—  frowsy  jetsam  who  make  a  business  of  imposing  upon 
uitably  disposed  and  by  means  of  hard-luck  tales  secure 
i  each  day  to  keep  them  supplied  with  vitriolic  grog, 
ers  are  warned  against  the  wiles  of  the  foreign  sailor  who 
ist  his  ship,'  etc.,  and  who  in  reality  is  an  old  resident  of 
ality.  The  local  charities  and  the  Salvation  Army  look 
i  care  for  the  worthy  poor,  and  visitors  can  help  them  in 
oble  and  self-sacrificing  work  by  contributions  of  cash. 

(Ves  {dordbo;  nusvhito^  etc.)  are  rapidly  on  the  increase, 
le  140-odd  prisons  of  the  Empire  receive  each  year 
i  of  18,000  persons  convicted  of  thefts  of  property.  The 
fle  proverb:  Hin  sureha  don  suru,  'Poverty  makes  a 
iqnd  (and  thievish),'  no  doubt  has  much  to  do  with  the 
pDwtn  of  crime,  for  untoJd  thousands  of  the  poorer 
vilify  IttaSnanemlseBse,  an  admost  intolerable  burden. 


cbdv  JOJUTSU 

As  a  race  the  nation  is  honest.  The  traveler  from  those  Latin 
countries,  where  only  the  atmosphere  can  be  left  out  of  doan 
with  imptmity,  marvels  at  the  host  of  attractive  things  strswD 
across  tne  open  shop-fronts  and  in  the  streets  of  Japanese 
towns,  as  well  as  at  the  apparent  carelessness  with  wldeh 
money  and  valuable  objects  are  left  unprotected.  While  for- 
eigners have  hitherto  been  more  or  less  neglected  by  the 
dorobOf  they  now  have  to  be  on  their  guard  against  thoDf 
particularlv  the  pickpockets  (auri)^  as  this  light-fii^ered  gentiy 
nas  learned  that  foreign  pockets  are  usually  more  opulent  and 

get-at-able  then  tl^e  native  kakushiy  and  special  attention  Is 
eing  accorded  them.  Hotel  thefts  are  rare.  The  ^y  Nip- 
ponese  thief  prefers  generally  to  pick  a  pocket  in  a  crowded 
car  or  thoroiighfare,  or  to  obtain  money  by  some  subtle  rose 
rather  than  to  risk  his  precious  neck  by  a  burglarious  ope»- 
tion;  or  to  steal  openly  and  run  for  it.  Geisha  are  at  the  bottom  ^ 
of  many  breaches  of  confidence  on  the  part  of  young  men  ^ ' 
Japan.  —  The  Japanese  police  are  amazingly  ef^ent  is 
locating  stolen  thmgs,  ana  by  reporting  a  loss  promptly  to 
police  headquarters,  one  stands  an  excellent  chance  of  reoov^ 
ering  the  goods. 

V.  Jujutsu.  Wrestling.  Harakiri.  Tattooing. 

Jujutsu  or  Jud6  (pron.  jew-joots',  jew-doh'),  perhaps  one 
of  the  most  subtle  and  unique  of  the  Oriental  sciences,  is  pop" 
ular  among  Japanese,  by  whom  it  is  extensively  practieeo. 
Complete  self-control  ana  an  intimate  knowledge  of  physics  •> 
related  to  the  human  body  are  its  prominent  characteristics* 
Possessed  of  it  a  jujutsu  expert  (jujuisuka)  is  usually  able  to 
win  in  very  unequal  physical  contests  and  to  overpower  so 
opponent  of  considerably  ^eater  muscular  strength.  Wlute 
it  nas  its  nearest  analogue  in  wrestling,  it  is  of  much  greater 
refinement  and  potency;  the  stratagem  of  causing  the 
aggressor  to  injure  himself,  in  direct  proportion  to  his  Icmb  ot 
self-command  and  to  the  force  exerted  by  him,  is  frequentl|jr 
employed.  Historians  disagree  as  to  its  ongin.  Some  believe  it 
was  known  in  my thological  times  and  was  used  by  crafty  gods 
one  against  the  other.  It  gradually  came  into  prominence  I0 
Japan  about  3  centuries  ajgo.  According  to  the  records  of  one 
popular  school  of  the  art,  in  the  16th  cent,  a  learned  physidsti 
Akiyama  Shirobeiy  of  Hirato  (in  KjrQshQ),  in  order  to  add  toll* 
knowledge,  went  to  China.  There,  during  a  three  years'  oooise 
of  study,  he  learned  some  special  tricks  of  a  Chinese  system  t' 
boxing  called  (by  the  Japanese)  hakuda.  In  this  ConfudM 
game  striking  and  kicking  are  said  to  have  been  ehiflflf 
employed  to  disable  an  adversary.  On  his  return  to  J^tfi 
Shirdbei  taught  this  system,  but  as  it  was  neither  scientific  10 
extensive,  its  vogue  soon  lapsed.  Tbeievipon  he  set  about  K 

"I 


JfiiJDlBD  :dtr 

■atioa.  Bmm  a  Shinto  devotee  he  repaired  to  the  edkh 
hl>ihxiiie  of  Tenjinf  at  Daaaifo,  in  C9u3ciiieQ  Fmwmo^ 
a:  he  prayed  earnestly,  fasted  rigeioiuly,  aiKl  meditated 
andoe^y.  Toward  we  end  of  a  trying  fast,  he  fell  into 
p  deeo  and  dreamed  that  he  saw  a  tall  pine  and  a  willow 
delenaing  themselyes  against  a  great  snowstorm.  The 

ar  put  forai  its  great  strength  and  resisted  the  wdg^ 
on  its  branch^  only  to  have  them  bn^Gm.  Tne  wiDow 
ibeSy  beinii  both  supide  and  ^iant,  bent   far  enough 
ilh  the  weight  to  permit  it  to  slip  ofir ,  ihesk  sprang  back 
Ktion  mihort. 

■lidiw  that  an  important  secret  —  that  of  apparently 
infc  bat  in  reality  winning,  by  i^ianoy-^had  been 
lea  to  him,  the  student  wovked  upon  the  sysbem.  until  he 
ievelaped  more  than  300  tricks,  which  he  taught  in  a 
it  eaOed  by  him  Yo  Skm^ryU,  or  'Sfnrit  of  the  ^^^Uow* 
SohooL'  This  was  hiter  mn^ged  with  other  sdiools  where 
tly  tfifferent  systems  were  taught,  under  the  name  of  ^le 
mShm  yo  ryU;  so-called  from  Ihe  idirine  where  Ihe  secret 
leveakd.  In  time  other  schools  became  known  as  jit^tffatt 
[learest  Kngfiah  equivalent  of  which  is  the '  art  of  {uianey) 
!stt  C body-art Oi  yawara  Cgentle-«rt')f  etc.;  but  all  had 
beir  fundamentiu  principle  the  substitution  of  craftiness 
tsength.  the  crippling  of  an  advenarv  by  deflecting  his 
itnojgtn  against  him,  and  of  winning  by  ostensibly  yield- 
For  many  years  the  science  was  the  predilection  ca  the 
ke  Bomtarai.  In  their  hours  of  Idsure  and  practice  they 
loped  it  to  a  high  degree,  passing  its  secrets  down  to 
nty.  With  the  subolition  of  feudalism^  jtijtUsu  shared  the 
of  many  mediseval  things  and  fell  mto  decadence.  In 
,  Prqf.  Jigaro  Kano,  an  eminent  educationist  and  at 
nt  the  greatest  living  exponent  of  jUjutsu^  revived  it,  and 
years  of  study  be^an  to  teach  it  to  young  Japanese, 
orating  and  advancing  it  to  an  extent  undreiEuned*of  in 
il  times,  and  calling  it  by  the  name  judd  ('principle,'  or 
rine'  01  pliancy;  by  which  name  it  is  now  commonly 
n))  he  aueceeded  in  establishing  scores  of  schools  throng- 
he  Japanese  Empire,  as  well  as  awakening  a  world-wide 
eat  in  the  singular  art. 

e  advanced  svstem  of  judd  embodies  the  best  qualities  of 

HomerouB  other  systems  supplemented  by  a  scientific 

eaftkm  of  psychology  and  physical  dynamics  wanting  in 

HtMer  .development.  Its  highest  secrets  (which  are  poa- 

ibiy  onlv  a  very  few)  are  entrusted  only  to  those  of  known 

Stiy  and  morality,  for  its  possibilities  are  too  lethad  to  be 

MiMid  ta  ignorant  hands.    A  master  of  this  dangerous 

hUk  ^  tftarts  from  the  mathematical  princiide  tnat  the 

ody  is  destroyed  so  soon  as  the  verUcai  ^e 

t-iAr  oenter  of  gravity  faUa  outside  its  base)'  ib 


dxvi  JCJUTSU 

said  to  be  able,  by  slight  pressure,  to  paralyze  an  opponen 
limbs  (by  applying  a  ^breakmg  pressure  *  to  them),  to  dii 
cate  a  bone,  twist  a  muscle,  or  to  render  one  unconscious;  Um 
by  another  application  of  skill  to  resuscitate  the  disabled  oi 
^  intimate  Imowledge  of  the  most  vital  and  vulnerable  pa 
of  the  human  body  is  no  doubt  the  secret  of  this  power.  T 
course  of  jtido  exercises  includes  manoeuvers  so  many  and 
variously  executed  that  to  attempt  a  description  of  them  woi 
serve  merely  to  bewilder  the  reader.  The  most  celebrit 
school  in  Japan  is  that  of  Prof,  Kano,  the  Kodo^Kwan 
Sakashitamachi  114i  Koiskikawa-kuj  Tokyo.  The  lam 
exercise-room  (where  strangers  may  see  jujvtau  practice<S 
at  Shimotomizaka-cho  18,  KoisMkaworku,  Tokyo.  Classes  i 
held  between  3  and  6  p.m.  on  week  davs,  and  between  8  and 
A.M.  on  Sundays;  but  the  visitor  will  not  always  witness  t 
best  exercises  at  these  times.  To  inculcate  stoicism  and  teof 
ity  of  purpose  students  (a  number  of  whom  are  women)  8 
required  to  attend  the  school  at  4  a.m.  (classes  are  held  til 
A.M.)  during  the  coldest  period  of  the  year  at  Tokyo  —  usua 
about  30  oays  in  Jan. -Feb.  The  same  principle  is  appli 
during  the  noon  hours  of  the  hottest  summer  days.  The  enth 
siastic  young  Japanese  zealously  abide  by  these  sevf 
monastic  rules,  since  those  who  have  successfully  withfito 
the  ordeal  are  given  certificates  (greatly  prized,  as  indieati 
success  in  other  undertakings)  certifying  to  their  physical  a 
mental  fitness. 

From  150  to  300  lessons  of  1  hr.  a  week,  or  a  period  of  es 
dse  covering  from  3  to  5  yrs.,  are  necessary  for  an  avera 
person  to  acquiire  a  fairly  intimate  knowledge  of  the  art.  j 
earnest  student  can  get  a  valuable  working  knowledge  in  abo 
30  lessons  if  he  takes  these  from  a  special,  individual  teach 
Conditions  and  costs  vary  widely.  It  might  be  said  that  ti^ 
are  two  ways  open  for  a  foreigner  to  learn  jujvisu.  The  fi 
is  to  attend  the  regular  school  along  with  the  native  studeo 
who  are  taught  en  masse.  Being  practically  headquarteFB 
the  science  in  Japan,  the  Ka7u>  school  is  considered  of  su 
great  public  utility  that  it  is  supported  by  endowments.  T 
cost  to  the  student  is  thereby  reduced  to  an  entrance  fee^d 
yen  and  a  nominal  charge  of  30  sen  (15c.  U.S.  money)  a  mon 
for  the  use  of  the  schoolrooms.  Any  one  can  attend  who  % 
promise  to  obey  the  rules  and  regulations  of  the  institutij 
The  instructors  are  all  Japanese.  A  special,  English-speiJd 
teacher  employed  to  devote  his  time  to  a  single  foreign  stud( 
would  cost  from  50  Sen  to  5  yen  an  hr.  depending  upon  whet] 
a  private  room  were  desired;  upon  how  deeply  versed  in  \ 
intricacies  of  judo  the  teacher  might  be;  whether  the  pu 
would  want  to  name  the  hrs.  devoted  to  him,  and  so  for 
At  the  higher  price  the  learner  could  take  as  many  lesson 
week  as  he  could  aseimilate.  Under  favorable  conditions  i 
light  kind  of  a  teacher  could  be  YiaA  loi  ixoisi  \\»  ^  -yicii. 


WRESTLmO  idzffi 

aie  dther  graduates  (yudbnaftii,  or  'those  nith 
6d  under-graduates  (mtuianaha,  or  'thoee  ncithoat 
rfae  latter  are  divided  into  6  olasBes;  the  fcunner  into 
uster  mentally  estimates  the  student's  attainmeate, 
e  has-gauged  his  power  of  self-control^  he  decides  in 
id  how  many  degrees,  so  to  speak,  he  mav  receive, 
power  of  advanced  judd  is  said  to  make  this  neeee- 
soever  has  reached  the  6th  grade  in  the  grachiate 
idered  to  have  attained  to  a  comp^rehensive  knOvdn 
physical  side  of  the  art.  Not  until  he  acquires  the 
L  degree,  is  he  a  shihan  (master,  or 'model  teadiior'). 
(stnsUi  call  themselves  akihan  who  are  not  really 
lighest  rank  (open  to  all)  acquired  by  any  foreigner. 
Olio  School  is  the  first  in  the  graduate  course,  and^ 
bheld  by  but  4  men  —  2  of  whom  live  in  TOlqrO. 
le  Japanese  police,  and  not  a  few  mititary  men, 
Hiing  of  judo.  A  smattering  of  it  often  enables  a 
to  subjugate  a  powerful  aggressor.  The  object  dF 
^old;  it  teaches  methods  ofself-defense,  it  imparts 
e  and  a  high  sense  of  self-discipline,  and  it  gives  its 
greater  control  over  the  muscles  of  the  body  than  is 
Bible  in  any  other  system  of  i^ysical  cmtuire. — 
various  monographs  (in  the  vernacular;  an  Eng« 
ion  is  in  preparation)  by  Prof,  Kano.  The  Fighting: 
pan,  by  E,  J.  Harrison  (London,  1912).. 

I  (sumo)  is  one  of  the  most  popular  of  the  Japanese 
the  bouts  held  in  Toky5  in  Jan.  (usually  from  the 
22d)  and  May  of  each  year  arouse  as  much  enthu- 
leball  does  in  the  U.S.A.  Legend  traces  the  practice 
lya  (nicknamed  the  *  quick-kicker'),  a  man  of  ex- 
strength,  who  lived  at  Tonuif  in  YamcUo  PrO- 
;  B.C.  23.  His  pride  in  his  muscle  became  known 
peror  SuiniUy  who  sent  for  Nomv^nb^vkune,  a 
of  Izumo;  the  two  wrestled  in  the  presence  of  the 
uid  Sukune*s  attacks  were  so  rude  that  Kehaya 
spot  from  the  injuries  received.  Posterity  refers  to 
rst  recorded  wrestling-match;  the  place  in  Yamato 
by  the  name  Koshi-oridaj  or  *  hip-breaking  field,' 
nark  the  place  where  Kehaya  hved.  Svxune  is 
the  tutelary  deity  of  wrestlers,  and  shrines  stand 
jry.  In  a.d.  809,  the  Emperor  Heij5  ordered  men 
to  be  sent  to  the  Imperial  Court  from  all  parts  of 
fijs  successor  established  a  special  dept.  for  the 
t  of  palestral  affairs,  and  in  834  the  Mikado 
dered  that  wrestling  should  be  encouraged  as  an 
uUtary  accomplishment.  The  first  public  matches 
)  on  record  in  Yedo  took  place  in  1632;  thoudi 
■inohibited  by  the  authorities,  the  bouts  g;reN7  m 
mi't^^ency,  and  about  1820  the  temple  mdo- 


I 


^_  xaot 


clKviii  WRESTLING 

sure  o(  Eko-in  (p.  231)  became  -tbe  established 

annuel  exhibitions.  Anciently  wrestlera  were  claaaified 
ing  to  their  skill,  and  competing  squads  were  called  '  risht  ud 
left'  sidea.  Ths  preecnt  claj»ii ^cation  of  '  Eastern  ana  WmIi- 
em  Campa'  datisa  from  Tokugawa  timee  and  is  believed  U) 
represent  the  E.  and  W.  provinces  respectively.  The  men  on 
each  side  are  of  5  grades,  those  of  the  highest  rank  being  oolld 
Oteki.  When  one  of  these  leodeca  in  either  camp  defeats  Ua 
rival  and  at&nda  without  a  peer,  he  is  ranked  as  Hinotkile 
haisan  ('imiversai  champion')  and  is  entitled  to  wear  Uie 
much-coveted  Yokozuna,  or  rope-belt  of  bleached  hefop 
oiit^nally  conferred  upon  champion  wrestlers  by  a  oobk 
family  m  Ky5to.  Since  Akaahi  Skigaiioauke  received  this 
honor  first  in  1634  less  than  a  score  of  men  have  worn  llw 
championship  belt.  Prior  to  1868  wrestlera  enjoyed  privilcgN 
almost  aa  great  as  those  of  samwrai,  to  whom  they  were  itBXtt> 
military  rank.  Their  treatment  was  in  marked  coatnat  ts 
that  of  actors,  who  were  referred  to  as '  riverside  beggars,'  ani 
who  were  compelled  when  tr&veling  to  hide  their  faces  in  deep 
wicker  hats. 

There  are  48  recojcnized  hands  (Ik)  or  grips;  classified  into 
throwing,  grappling,  twisting,  bending,  etc;  each  with  12 sub- 
methods  of  which  wrestlers  nvay  avail  themaelvos  to  overconu 
an  opponent;  besides  certain  individual  kinks  known  to  book 
of  them.  Wherever  a  man  is  able  to  use  a  hand  in  a  dangerous 
fashion,  such,  for  instance,  as  slapping  an  antagonist  (permit-  i 
ted)  in  the  face  with  sufficient  violence  as  to  disable  him,  he  is 
forbidden  to  luie  it,  notwithstanding  it  may  be  a  legitimate  one.  I 
Aa  the  men  wrestle  in  an  almost  nude  state,  good  holds  are 
bard  to  get;  the  best  are  made  possible  by  the  loln-oloth,  at 
jnav/ashi,  a  species  of  long  bel  t  which  goes  several  times  round 
the  waist.  The  rich  and  costly  damask  apron  (often  beauti' 
fully  embroidered  in  gold  and  silver)  worn  by  wrestlers  during 
the  preliminary  ceremonies  —  and  which  bears  the  same  rela- 
tion to  them  that  the  mlken  capa  does  to  the  eapada  in  a  bull- 
fight—is removed  when  the  wrestling  be^ns.  From  eariy 
worrung  on  the  day  preceding  wrestling-matches,  drums  are 
1 — ..^  m  5  quarters  of  the  city,  to  announce  to  lovers  of  the 
.  that  the  bouts  are  to  be  held  on  the  following  day. 

Wrestlers  in  Japan  are  aa  unmistakable  as  bull-fightere  in  a 
Spanish  country.  They  are  immensely  heavy,  gla^ator-like, 
beefy  men,  sometimes  weighing  300-350  lbs.  and  slnuding 
head  and  shoulders  above  the  average  native.  It  is  said  that 
they  observe  no  special  regimen  in  tJicir  diet,  other  than  that 
they  eat  two  or  three  times  as  much  meat  as  the  ordinary 
native  and  drink  considerably  more  sake  than  the  average  man. 
la  size  oiid  muscular  developrnent  t\ie^  oie  Bi»TOXinA\\ra.S.wiiaa 
do  not  approach  the  normal  m  mle'iiftimw.  Oi^e^'aa  assewet 
to  become  a.  wrestler  tnust.  apptj  \o  a  toalw.'a"''^  M^t  »bi^ 


V 

be 


:e, 

at 
at 

ry 

a 

68 


WRESTLING  obdx 

c^^os^yori)  — y  a  man  who  has  retired  from  the  ring  and  who 
t^ctkes  part  in  the  management  or  supervision  of  wrestlers. 
OoDsiderable  hard  work  is  necessary  before  the  tyro  is  admitted 
t^o  the  great  wrestling  arenas  in  T5ky5;  where,  if  he  is  strong 
^Xkd  proficient,  he  may  be  allowed  to  wrestle  early  in  the 
i3[iormng  (of  wrestling  days)  before  the  regular  matches  take 
I>lace.  One  who  wins  m  a  bout  is  butted  against  a  second  oppo- 
nent, and  if  he  wins  twice  consecutively  he  receives  a  mark. 
On  tiie  4th,  7th,  and*  10th  days  of  the  great  matches  these 
xxiarks  are  counted,  and  by  their  number  the  aspirant's  position 
is  fixed.    If  he  has  sufficient  marks,  he  becomes  a  regular 
wrestler.  The  salaries  of  the  best  men  are  astonishingly  small; 
the  champion  receiving  about  100  yen  for  his  10  days'  work. 
The  honor,  the  plaudits  of  the  crowd,  the  smiles,  and  the  gifts 
which  tiie  geisha  fling  into  the  ring  in  their  excitement  and 
enthusiasm,  appeal  strongly  to  the  men,  some  of  whom  have 
patrons  whose  munificence  adds  to  their  meager  pay.  There 
are  upward  of  a  thousand  wrestlers  in  Toky5  under  tne  control 
of  the  Toky5  Wrestling  Association.  The  contests  are  held  in 
the  Kokugikwanf  next  to  the  Eko^n  TempUj  and  at  the  newer 
pavilion  of  the  same  name  in  Asakuaa  Park,   Twenty-four 
men  from  the  E.  and  a  like  number  from  the  W.  Camp  com- 
pete for  honors.  The  practicallv  continuous  performance  usu- 
ally begins  at  4  a.m.  and  lasts  till  6  p.m.  The  admission  ranges 
fiom  50  Ben  (gallery)  to  ¥4  for  a  chair,  and  ¥14  for  a  box  which 
wOl  seat  5  persons.    The  arena  is  raised  a  trifle  above  the 
ground  and  is  sometimes  shaded  by  a  canopy  supported  by 
4  posts,  one  with  a  green  baud  wound  round  its  upper  part, 
another  red,  a  3d  white,  and  a  4th  black,  —  symbouc  of  the 
4  seasons.    A  purple  curtain  adorned  with  figures  of  white 
plum  blossoms  envelops  the  upper  part  of  the  posts.  The  old 
custom  required  that  within  the  4  pillars,  2  concentric  circles 
of  rice-bajfs  be  placed,  the  inner  line  forming  the  ring  —  about 
12  ft.  in  diameter.  Close  at  hand  are  small  pails  of  water,  some 
paper,  and  salt;  the  former  revives  the  flagging  spirits,  and  is 
Kdd  to  be  emblematic  of  the  water  which  is  given  to  the  dying 
(as  wrestlers  are  supposed  to  be  prepared  for  death).    The 
paper  is  used  for  wiping  the  face,  and  the  salt  for  purifying  the 
arena.   A  referee  selected  from  among  the  Tosniyori  sits  at 
each  pillar,  the  wrestlers  sit  on  the  E.  and  W.  sides  of  the  ring 
awaiting  tneir  turn,  and  the  umpire  generally  stands  on  the 
N.  side,  and  faces  S.  as  he  pronounces  results.   Early  in  the 
ntoming  before  wrestling  begins,  water  is  sprinkled  over  the 
arena  to  sanctify  it;  rice  is  offered,  and  prayers  are  made  to 
the  Rods,  particularly  to  Nomi-^no-Sukuney  a  shrine  dedicated 
to  whom  irf  usually  to  be  found  near  wrestling-halls.  When  the 
iQatches  begin  the  contestants  and  the  referees  sit  on  both 
'idos  of  the  arena,  while  the  caller-out  (yohidashi)  comes  loi- 
*i|d  wiUi  a  fan  in  M9  hand  and  announces  the  names  oi  \>\i!^ 


cte  HARAEIRI 

wrestlers.  The  umpire  makes  a  similar  ajmouncement,  and 
two  matched  men  come  into  the  arena  from  either  side.  Eacb 
turns  a  pillar  on  his  side,  then  resting  a  hand  on  each  kofie, 
raises  his  legs  wide,  one  after  the  other,  in  a  half-sitting  posture 
and  stamps  on  the  ^ound  6  times.  Those  above  a  certain 
rank  face  each  other  sitting  on  their  heels,  and  clap  their  hands 
and  stretch  their  arms  as  a  sign  that  they  will  abide  by  tlie 
umpire's  decision  and  will  bear  their  antagonists  no  maUoe, 
whatever  the  result  may  be.  As  they  ^lose  in  and  face  each 
other,  the  umpire  stands  by  them  with  his  fan  in  his  hand.  U 
a  wrestler  attempts  to  tussle  before  the  other  is  read5^  the 
latter  tells  him  to  wait.  The  delays  are  sometimes  made  on 
the  principle  that  by  so  doing  one  can  wear  a  comi)etitor  out. 
The  wrestler  is  defeated  if  he  is  thrown  by  his  opponent;  if  hifl 
foot  crosses  the  inner  ring;  or  his  hand  or  knee  touches  the 
ground.  Some  gain  a  victory  by  suddenly  springing  upon  the 
adversary;  others  by  sheer  weight,  by  lifting  him  and  dropping 
him  out  of  the  rin^,  by  pushing  him  down,  dodging,  tri{^ing^ 
and  by  other  unscientific  moves.  The  men  stop  frequently  to 
take  a  drink  of  water,  wipe  faces  with  the  bits  of  paper,  axA 
throw  pinches  of  salt  into  the  ring.  When  a  wrestler  is  victofr 
ous  he  squats  on  his  side  of  the  ring  while  the  umpire  points 
his  fan  at  him  and  pronounces  his  name.  The  vanquished 
leave  the  ring  without  ceremony.  The  matches  begin  with  the 
lowest  class,  and  rise  gradually  to  the  highest.  When,  the 
Tokyo  bouts  are  ended,  the  victors  leave  for  a  starring  tour 
of  the  provinces.  Advertisements  of  coming  events  art 
inserted  in  the  newspapers  printed  in  English. 

Harakiri  (pron.  hah-rah-key'-ree)  or  (more  politely)  «J^ 
puku  (* belly-cut'),  a  method  of  suicide  believed  to  be  p«" 
culiar  to  Old  Japan,  is  not  widely  popular  at  present.  It  caine 
into  practice  among  the  samurai  during  the  early  years  of  the 
military  domination  (of  the  Ashikaga)^  and  replaced  the  md* 
ancient  form  of  suicide  by  strangulation.  The  military  ct^ 
tom  of  permitting  a  vanquished  samurai  to  perform  harakif^ 
rather  than  endure  the  shame  of  execution  or  disgrace,  appeal 
to  have  been  generally  established  about  the  cloS^  of  the  ISth 
cent.  Afterwards  it  became  the  recognized  duty  of  such  a  one 
to  kill  himself  at  the  word  of  command.  *A11  samurai  we^ 
subject  to  this  disciplinary  law,  even  lords  of  provinces;  and 
in  samurai  families,  children  of  both  sexes  were  trained  how  to 

{)erform  suicide  wheneverpersonal  honor  or  the  will  of  a  licgo* 
ord,  might  require  it.'  Women  performed  jigaij  which  cOB' 
sisted  of  piercing  the  throat  with  a  dagger  so  as  to  sever  tbo 
arteries  by  a  single  thrust.  Where  two  persons  die  together,  bf 
mutual  consent,  the  act  is  referred  to  as  junshi.  Perhaps  tft 
most  remarkable  suicide  of  this  kind  in  modem  times  was  tM 
of  General  CourU  and  Countess  Nogi,  who  killed  themsdt* 
WJ'tb  dramatic  punctiliouBQeBB  at  their  residence  in  T5k|fc 


HARAKHa  dibd 

Sept.  13, 1912, 80  that  the  Count  might  follow  his  master^  the 
<lead  Emperor  MtUmhitOf  to  the  other  world. 

A  typical  case  of  peculiar  interest  to  foreigners  is  described 
in  MUford^s  Take  of  Old  Japan,  *  The  condemned  man  was 
Taki  ZemaburOf  an  officer  of  the  Prince  of  Bizeny  who  gave 
the  order  to  fire  upon  the  foreign  settlement  at  Hybgo  (Kobe) 
in  Feb.,  1868.  The  ceremony,  which  was  ordered  by  the 
Mikado  himself,  took  place  at  10.30  p.m.  in  the  Seifukujij  the 
headquarters  of  the  Satsuma  troops  at  Hyogo.  A  witness  was 
B^t  from  each  of  the  foreign  legations.  From  the  ceiling  of  the 
te  roof  of  the  dark  hall  of  the  temple  supported  by  dark 
pularB  of  wood  hung  a  profusion  of  gilt  lamps  and  ornaments 
peculiar  to  Buddhist  temples.  In  front  of  the  high  altar,  where 
the  floor,  covered  with  beautiful  white  mats,  is  raised  some  3  or 
^  in.  from  the  ground,  was  laid  a  rug  of  scarlet  felt.  Tall 
^dles  placed  at  regular  intervals  gave  out  a  dim  mysterious 
light,  just  sufficient  to  let  all  the  proceedings  be  seen.  The  7 
l^Muiese  took  their  places  on  the  left  of  the  raised  floor,  the 
7  foreigners  on  the  right.  After  an  interval  of  a  few  minutes  of 
uudous  suspense,  TaJd  Zemabwro,  a  stalwart  man,  32  years  of 
^,  with  a  noble  air,  walked  into  the  haJl  attired  in  his  dress 
M  ceremony,  with  the  peculiar  hempen-cloth  wings  which  are 
vom  on  great  occasions.  He  was  accompanied  by  a  kaiahaku 
uid  3  officers,  who  wore  the  jimbaon  or  war  surcoat  with  gold- 
tissue  facings.  The  word  kaishakuy  it  should  be  observed,  is 
jne  to  which  our  word  "  executioner '^  is  no  equivalent  term. 
Hie  office  is  that  of  a  gentleman :  in  many  cases  it  is  performed 
t>y  a  kinsman  or  friend  of  the  condemned,  and  the  relation 
'jetween  them  is  rather  that  of  principal  and  second  than  that 
^f  rictim  and  executioner.  In  this  instance  the  kaishaku  was 
i  pupil  of  Zemaburo,  and  was  selected  by  the  friends  of  the 
latter  from  among  tneir  own  number  for  his  skill  in  swords- 
■nanship.  Slowly,  and  with  great  dignity,  the  condemned  man 
pounted  onto  the  raised  floor,  prostrated  himself  before  the 
Jigh  altar  twice,  and  seated  himself  on  the  felt  carpet  with  his 
'^k  to  the  high  altar,  the  kaishaku  crouching  on  his  left-hand 
jde.  Zemaburo's  posture  was  that  usually  adopted  by  the 
Japanese,  with  knees  and  toes  touching  the  ground,  and  body 
[]6^g  on  the  heels.  In  this  position,  which  is  one  of  respect, 
he.  remained  until  his  death.  One  of  the  3  attendants  then 
^e  forward,  bearing  a  stand  of  the  kind  used  in  temples  for 
offerings,  on  which,  wrapped  in  paper,  lay  the  wakizashi,  the 
^hort  sword  or  dirk,  9}  inches  in  length,  with  a  point  and  an 
^  as  sharp  as  a  razor.  This  he  handed,  prostrating  himself, 
Jothe  condenmed  man,  who  received  it  reverently,  raised  it  to 
Us  head  with  both  hands,  and  placed  it  in  front  of  him.  Then 
4oving  his  upper  garments  to  slip  down  to  his  girdle,  he 
i^tt^Ded  naked  to  the  waist.  Carefully,  according  to  c\ia\;om, 
kMn^^  his  beeves  under  his  knees  to  prevent  UmaeU  ixoia 


t.^-r  . 


I 


clsxu    ARCHITECTURE  OF  BUDDHIST  TEMPLES 

falling  backward;  for  a  noble  Japanese  gentleman  should  die 
falling -forward.  Deliberately,  with  aatewly  hand,  he  took  the 
dirk  that  lay  before  him;  he  looked  at  it  wiatfujly,  almiHt 
affectionateli^;  for  a  moment  he  seemed  to  collect  his  tbougble 
tor  the  last  time,  and  then  stabbing  himself  deeply  below  the 
waist  on  the  left-hand  side,  he  drew  the  dirk  slowly  aoroM  to 
the  right  eido,  and,  turning  it  in  the  wound,  gave  a  Blight  cut 
UpwaniB.  During  this  aickeniiigly  painful  operation  he  never 
moved  a  muscle  of  his  face.  When  he  drew  out  the  dirk,  b« 
leaned  forward  and  atretched  out  his  neck;  an  expreaaoa  of 
pain  for  the  first  time  crossed  his  face,  but  be  uttered  no  sound 
At  that  moment,  the  kaishaku,  who,  stilt  crouching  by  hiseide^ 
had  been  keenly  watching  bis  every  movement,  sprang  to  hit 
feet,  poised  his  sword  for  a  second  in  the  air;  there  was  i 
flash,  a  heavy,  ugly  thud,  a  crashing  fall;  with  one  blow  the 
head  had  beMi  severed  from  the  body.' 

Tattooing,  or  Honmono  (fcorri,  to  dig;  mono,  thing),  wM 
anciently  more  popular  than  it  is  at  present,  since  the  govera- 
mental  decree  expressing  disapproval  of  it  caused  it  to  decliu 
in  favor.  The  art  (hoHmonojulmt)  has  always  been  confined  lo 
the  unlettered  class,  since  cultured  Japanese  consider  ill 
applicaljon  a  mark  of  extreme  vulgarity.  Coolies,  bravos,  and 
foreign  sailors  (53%  of  American  seamen,  and  36%  of  tiie 
enlist«d  marines  are  thus  adorned)  are  the  chief  patrons  of 
tattooers,  and  female  beauties,  popular  heroes,  flowers,  Mrdt, 
ship's  anchors,  love-emblems,  and  the  like  are  the  populv 

fiattems.  While  the  extraordinarily  expert  tattooers  of  Japm 
Yokohama  and  T5kyo  are  headquarters)  practice  the  Poly- 
nedan  style  of  pricking,  it  is  rather  significant  that  the  Ainud 
Yeao  (where  not  a  few  women  handle  the  delicate  knives  and 
needles  with  skill)  employ  the  Melanesian  method  of  cutting. 
The  operation  requires  time  and  patience,  but  is  not  necessa- 
rily painful.  BlooH  ia  seldom  drawn.  Sepia  and  vermilion  Me 
the  usual  colors;  brilliant  greens,  yellows,  and  blues  b^ 
con^dered  dangerous. 

VI.    Architecture  of  Buddhist  Temples. 


Architecture  {zoeijutsu.;  kenchikti-gaku).    The  e 

architecture  which  grew  up  in  Japan  after  the  intrixiuctKniol 
Buddhism,  has  qualities,  in  its  best  examples,  that  are  peeu-  ' 
liarly  attractive  to  artr-lovere.  Occidentals  in  particular  find 
the  gorgeously  decorated  Buddhist  temples  and  their  latei 
expressions  —  the  still  more  wonderful  and  elaborate  mortu- 
ary shrines  —  replete  with  interest.  Both  furnish  an  extennve 
illustration  of  the  transfer  from  the  continent  to  the  soil  of  on 
island  empire,  of  a  notable  pbaflcoi  de^ctvjeai\.^G\»\iii«- 
eatly  Hindu-Persian ,  yet  tingeA  vr*rt\v  V\ift\eatw%\tQ\ins»  A 
■SormoB  and  Chinese.    With  ttien  iMicomeaHS\wt  wg£^ 


ARCHITEJCTURE  OF  BUDDHIST  TEMPLES     clxxUi 

opulent  bell-towerS)  intricately  sculptured  gatewa^rs  (which  in 
themselves  often  represent  the  choicest  type  of  florid  Buddhist 
architecture  in  Japan),  pavilions,  revolving  libraries,  and  other 
structures,  they  make  a  strong  appeal,  —  particularly  when 
set  down  in  a  magnificent  environment  that  adds  materially 
to  their  beauty.  The  effective  blend  of  nature,  religion,  and 
art  impresses  so  many  travelers  that  in  time  they  learn  to 
reverence  the  monumental  old  temples  as  the  tangible  symbols 
of  a  beautiful  faith.  Time  and  again  they  return  to  their 
sacrosanct  and  singularly  tranquil  precincts  to  study  the 
inspiring  faces  of  the  beautiful  golden  images,  of  Buddmi  and 
the  Bo&isattvas,  and  to  marvel  at  the  strength  of  a  creed 
which  for  so  many  centuries  has  held  an  unthinkable  number 
of  the  human  race  under  its  sway.  The  wave  of  reform  which 
is  making  such  an  impression  in  secular  architecture  in  Japan 
—  particularly  in  the  large  cities  —  has  as  yet  had  no  effect 
on  the  ecclesiastical  structures,  in  which  there  has  been  little 
or  no  development  for  the  last  two  centuries.  Many  of  these 
show  a  pronounced  similarity  in  their  essential  architectural 
members  and  decorations,  which  though  var3ring  in  detail  are 
constant  in  type.  But  for  certain  differences  peculiar  to  locali- 
ties, or  for  decorations  applicable  to  the  local  tutelar  or  to  the 
bonze  to  whom  the  temple  owes  its  physical  being,  there  would 
be  considerable  uniformity  among  them.  As  it  is,  the  traveler 
who  has  seen  a  few  of  the  most  celebrated  types  may  feel 
amply  justified  in  foregoing  an  inspection  of  the  remainder,  as 
some  of  them,  though  expressive  of  a  rich  and  florid  imagina- 
tion, are  not  necessarily  indicative  of  a  highly  developed 
artistic  sense.  The  interior  adornments  are  often  disappoint- 
ing to  those  who  expect  to  find  the  splendid  paintings  and 
beautiful  stained-glass  windows  of  European  cathedrals. 

The  architecture  of  the  Chinese  (and  consequently  that  of  the  Japanese, 
who  received  their  constructional  ideas  from  them)  suggests,  in  its  general 
outline  and  the  peculiar  concave  roof,  a  canvas  tent  as  its  primary  motive, 
Uiough  there  is  no  further  proof  than  this  likeness  of  its  origin.  IVom  the  pal- 
ace to  the  hovel,  in  temples  and  in  private  dwellings,  this  type  everywhere 
stands  confessed,  and  almost  nothing  like  a  dome  or  cupola,  a  spire  or  turret 
(except  in  ^e  fortresses),  is  anywhere  found.  While  few  instances  occur 
anywhere  in  China  of  an  attempt  to  develop  this  simple  model  into  a  grand 
or  impoeing  building,  the  Japanese,  as  if  skipping  a  generation  and  going 
tMck  to  tiie  (for  them)  fountain  head,  emulated  the  example  of  the  Mogm 
princes  in  India  (who  perhaps  got  their  architectural  ideas  from  Persia  mm! 
Arabia)  and  reared  costly  mausolea  to  perpetuate  the  memory  of  their  dead 
aovereigna  and  glorify  their  reigns.  The  manifest  solidity  of  Japanese  mas- 
onry as  ezpreawd  in  walls  and  castles  bears  a  striking  likeness  to  similar 
eonctnictioii  work  in  Hindustan,  and  in  some  cases  an  even  finer  conception 
of  the  mechanical  principles  of  the  art  is  observable.  None  of  the  Japanese 
fltructures,  however,  possess  the  wonderful  acoustic  arrangements  of  ceitaiu 
of  the  Mohammedan  edifices.  The  well-known  inertness  of  the  ima^native 
tuvlty  in  tbe  Chisaoe  mind  baa  been  overcome  by  the  Japanese  in  a  angMr 
hrity  briUiapt  tBMoner;  due  perhaps,  in  a  way,  to  the  fact  that  the  C^nneae 


owea  Its  higheat  inspiration,  and  aacxed  axt 


clxxiv    ARCHITECTURE  OF  BUDDHIST  TEI^ 

is  mver  bo  strongly  developed  as  under  ^e  influence  of  a  pom 
splendid  hierarchy.  In  the  same  manner  the  want  of  a  hereditai 
is  equally  unfavorable  to  domestic  architecture  of  a  durable  d 
Private  feuds  and  private  wars  madefortalices  and  fortified  mand 
eary,  and  the  mass  and  solidity  of  these  give  a  marked  character 
of  the  edifices  in  Japan. 

Native  historians  refer  to  four  stages  of  sacred  arcl 
in  the  history  of  the  Empire:  the  Suikoj  of  the  earliest  I 
eipoeh : —  the  best  representative  of  which  ia  the  now  1 
HSryurji  (Rte.  34),  erected  near  Nara  in  a.d.  607 ;  the  F 
bA  expressed  in  the  Byodd^Uy  erected  at  Uji  (Rte.  33) 
the  luxurious  Kyoto  epoch,  of  which  the  dazzlinj 
Hongwanji  built  at  Kyoto  (Rte.  27)  in  1591  is  the  best  t; 
the  Tokugawa,  or  Yedo  epoch,  which  brought  fortj 
17th  cent,  the  brilliant  mausolea  of  Shiba  (Tokyo)  an 
(Rte.  14).  While  the  painfully  plain  and  crude  HdryU 
nificant  of  the  state  of  architecture  at  the  remote  peri 
erection,  and  stands  forth  as  the  best  example  extant 
Japanese  like  to  refer  to  as  the  Old  Yamato  tjrpe,  it  is 
ing  contrast  to  the  gorgeoua  NishiHongrvanjij  often  mi 
as  one  of  the  most  perfect  works  of  Buddhist  art  ir 
Though  the  former  is  marked  by  an  austerity  thi 
scarcely  be  more  pronounced,  the  latter  is,  in  places, 
as  elaborately  as  the  Alhambra,  with  considerable 
painted  work  suggestive  of  it.  Expressive  also  of  the  e^ 
of  the  art  is  the  perfect  understanding  of  the  laws  of  ( 
tion  in  the  grouping  and  the  distribution  of  the  pari 
nearly  every  panel,  beam,  or  screen  carries  some  p 
Buddhistic  significance.  Besides  the  frankly  organic  c 
of  the  structiuul  work  in  Buddhist  temples,  a  notewor 
—  perhaps  also  an  acquisition  from  Arabia  through  Ii 
Chma  —  is  the  shrewa  concentration  of  ornament  at 
altar.  To  this,  one  is  often  led  abruptly,  from  a  m< 
matic,  time-stained  exterior,  to  a  dazzling,  polycl 
interior  blazing  with  an  outburst  of  gold  and  opulent : 
emblematic  of  the  precious  golden  truths  glowing  at  t 
of  Buddha's  outwardly  austere  law.  The  contrast 
the  plain  and  the  decorative  pwts  of  some  of  the 
monumental  temples  in  Japan  is  of  the  strongest  des 
producing,  in  the  height  of  emphasis  thereby  atta 
extraordinary  vividness  of  effect.  This  decoration  d 
however,  falsify  the  temple  by  its  enrichment;  the  aim 
cases  is  to  render  the  leading  structural  members  pr 
by  color  or  treatment.  That  this  is  successful,  is  show 
fact  that  scarcely  anything  in  the  architectural  world 
splendidly  effective  than  the  cyclopean,  gold-sheath 
porting. colunms  of  A^e^^aA^wood,  gleaming  like  a  masf 
metal,  and  imparting  by  their  very  plainness  an  air  < 
ishin^  richness.  At  tunes  a  striking  effect  is  attained  b; 
covenng  the  facade  with  extiaoTdinarily  rich  and  n 


ABCmTEGTUBE  OF  BUDDHIST  TEMPLES    clxxv 

Mrood  carvings,  in  monotone  or  in  the  natural  tint  of  the  wood, 
"tlien  supplementing  them  within  by  similar  sculpture  emblaz- 
oned with  vivid  odbrs  and  scintillating  with  Kold. 

Hie  Buddhist  Temples  of  Japan  generally  sit  back  from  the 
ataneet  in  a  wide,  sanded  inclosure  rei^phed  through  one  or  more 
Se^ukI  one-  or  two-storied  gateways  continually  left  open  to 
tlie  public.  These  entrances  are  oftentimes  constructed  like 
miniature  temples,  and  are  so  ornate  as  frequently  to  be  mis- 
taken by  strangers  for  the  fane  itself.  The  beauty  and  glitter 
of  the  mier  gateway  —  particularly  those  giving  ingress  to  a 
Compound  containmg  a  mausoleum  —  are  often  so  marked 
aa  fairly  to  dazzle  one.  Not  uncommonly  they  are  lacauered 
in  a  ridi,  lustrous  Indian  red,  and  further  ornamented  with 
metal  enrichments  to  which  tune  imparts  a  beautiful  patina. 
Wh^i  gold-leaf  is  employed  profusdy,  and  exposure  to  the 
dements  harmonizes  the  polychrome  colors,  the  general  effect 
la  not  easily  forgotten,  particularly  if  the  structure  reposes  in 
a  setting  of  deep-green  foliage.  A  massive  granite  water-basin, 
a  b^ry,  a  number  of  bronze  or  stone  lanterns,  along  with  a 
Pagoda  and  other  edifices  usually  occupy  the  same  compound 
With  a  temple  —  which  is  generally  oblong  and  raised  some 
4  ft.  from  the  ground.  In  some  cases  there  is  an  inner  and  an 
Outer  sanctuary  (honden)  separated  by  an  interval  room,  or  by 
^  screen  or  blind;  the  separation  being  sometimes  emphasized 
oy  a  different  treatment  of  the  ceilings  of  the  two.  ^  These 
ouildings  vary  greatly  in  size,  there  being  in  the  larger  temples 
^A  interior  penstyle  —  or  other  arrangement  of  colunms,  to 
Support  the  roof  —  forming  an  ambulatory  or  aisle  round  the 
Oratory,  or  sometimes  round  3  sides  of  it,  leaving  the  fourth 
to  be  occupied  by  the  sanctuary  and  secondary  temples  on 
^ther  side.' 

The  huge  Temple  Roofs,  covered  sometimes  with  a  system 
Of  imbricated  tiles,  sometimes  with  sheets  of  copper-bronze 
^xQled  by  time  and  the  weather  to  a  rich  old  green  with  here 
^nd  there  a  glint  of  gold,  loom  above  their  surroundings,  or 
appear  through  their  sacred  groves  in  a  mass  almost  cyclopean 
in  its  imposing  ^andeur.  The  absence  of  intense  cold  weather 
in  Central  and  Western  Japan  makes  the  use  of  copper-bronze 
possible  for  this  purpose,  and  certain  of  the  roofs,  notably 
those  of  the  mausolea  of  the  ahoguns  in  Uyeno  Park,  in  Tokyo, 
show  that  formerly  the  baser  metal  was  covered  with  gold- 
toil —  a  custom  which  gave  Marco  Polo  the  chance  to  tell 
Blurope  that  in  Cipangu  the  roofs  of  the  palace  buildings  were 
of  massive  gold!  At  certain  points  on  the  beams  of  these  struc- 
tures there  is  an  efflorescence  of  rich  metal  ornamentation  or 
a  series  of  gilded  crests  which  are  strikingly  attractive  and 
piotmesque.  Tlie  forms  of  the  roofs  are  various,  though  for  t\i<& 
ttost  pBxt  they  commence  in  a  steep  slope  at  the  top,  g;rad\iaW.^ 
fcttufning  tamud  the  eaves  so  as  to  produce  a  digJUlAy  ooncaNQ 


clxxvi    ARCHITECTURE  OF  BUDDHIST  TEMPLES- 

appearance  —  this  concavity  being  rendered  more  emphatk 
by  the  tilt  which  is  given  to  the  eaves  at  the  four  comers.  Tbt 
appearance  of  the  ends  of  the  roofs  is  half  hip,  half  gable, 
wmle  in  the  spandrel  below  the  ridge-pole  are  not  nnf  requentlj 
placed  splendid  wood  sculptures  of  ^gantic  size.  Heavy  ribi 
of  tile-cresting  with  large  terminals  are  carried  along  the  ridgOi 
hip,  and  the  uope  of  the  gable.  The  result  of  the  whole  is.ver^i 
striking,  with  the  advantage  of  looking  equally  satisfactory 
from  any  point  of  view.  To  foreigners  many  of  the  roofs  seen] 
disproportionately  heavy;  looking  as  if  ready  to  weigh  dowi 
and  crush  the  slender  structures  below.  Some  of  the  pooiei 
temples,  which  cannot  afford  tiled  roofs,  are  thatched  wiUi 
straw,  after  the  fashion  of  the  primitive  Shinto  shrines;  still 
others  are  covered  with  the  dull,  leaden  gray  pantiles  so  com' 
mon  on  dwelling-houses.  The  forbiddmg  color  of  these  k 
sometimes  enlivened  by  lines  of  white  cement,  and  in  certain 
localities  they  are  replaced  by  tiles  with  a  brown  glaze.  Crest' 
tiles  are  common,  but  instead  of  being  stamped  with  conven- 
tional figures,  they  usually  carry  the  particular  crest  of  some 
great  person  —  mayhap  the  shogun  to  whose  generosity  the 
structure  owes  its  being.  Every  temple  in  the  land,  from  the 
wealthiest  to  the  tiny,  tin-pot  affair  of  the  poorest  hamlet,  has 
its  particular  crest,  and  from  it  the  stranger  is  often  enaJ^led 
to  guess  to  what  divinity  it  is  consecrated,  or  what  great  pe^ 
sonage  supports  (or  has  supported)  it  or  is  deified  therein. 

In  view  of  the  national  penchant  for  bizarre  and  distorted 
animal  forms,  for  demonology  and  all  its  allied  grotesquery, 
one  rather  looks  for  the  picturesque  mediseval  gargoyles  ttuA 
would  prove  such  attractive  concomitants  to  the  style  of  the 
temple  roofs.  Their  absence  is  often  compensated  for  by 
elaborate  antefixes  {abumi-gawara)  placed  at  the  junction  ol 
the  imbrices  along  the  ridges,  and  embossed  with  crests  oi 
designs  preserving  the  progressive  continuity  of  the  fretfi 
which  encircle  the  structure.  They  often  take  the  form  oi 
demonlets,  scowling  demon  faces,  flowers,  dragons,  and  evoo 
the  sluggish  and  unpoetic  turtle.  They  vary  with  the  district 
and  are  almost  always  attractive  to  strangers.  The  squatting, 
straining,  squashed-looking  figures  which  one  sometimes  seee 
high  up  in  the  gable  ends  of  certain  of  the  temples  are  known 
as  Dairorbotchiy  the  Japanese  Atlas  who  bears  a  part  of  the 
weight  of  the  temple  roof  just  as  the  mythological  Atlas  bore 
up  the  pillars  of  heaven.  The  Coffered  Ceilings  of  templsf 
and  maiisolea  are  interesting  in  that  the  style  is  ascribed  to 
the  Koreans  (who  undoubtedly  copied  it  from  the  Chhiese). 
The  rectangular  coffers,  usually  not  above  20  in.  in  diameter, 
often  carry  panels  richly  decorated  with  flowers^  polychrO' 
matic  dragons,  scroll-work,  phoenixes,  and  effective  designi 
aznUaT  to  those  of  certain  palaces  and  temples  of  China.  Ver$ 
elaborate  lacquer  and  metal  daspe,  often  gold-plated,  ooTtt 


DOG  OF  PO— TENNIN  olscvii 

the  dividing  nbs  at  ornament  them  at  the  joints.  When  ham- 
mered metfu  caedngs  or  clasps  are  absent  the  coffers  are  usually 
divided  into  a  series  of  tiny  ones  with  an  appearance  of  lattice- 
work. The  ceiling  is  connected  with  the  wsdis  by  a  large  covinff, 
traversed  vertically  by  raised  bars  similar  to  those  which 
divide  the  coffers  into  squares.  Some  temples  ate  to  be  seen  in 
which  the  ceiling  of  the  nave  and  the  loggia  are  boarded  flat 
and  decorated  with  huge  paintings  of  dnigons  in  black  and 
gold,  the  Dog  of  Fo,^  or  of  nying  tennin,*  In  cases  where  there 
is  no  ceiling  —  for  internally  the  temple  construction  varies  — 
uprights  resembling  king-posts  are  often  used,  two  customarily 
standing  on  the  horizontal  beam  from  which  they  rise.  In 
some  instances  there  is  but  one,  and  occasionally  this  is  dis- 
pensed with.  Then  the  interior  takes  on  a  conical  shape,  and 
the  majse  of  beams  recede  to  a  central  disc  on  which  a  coiled 
and  glowering  dragon  is  but  dimly  seen  amid  the  gray  smoke 
of  incense. 

Many  of  the  temples  show  rich  Adornmbnts  of  metal,  — 
usually  brass  and  copper-bronze,  —  and  not  imfrequently  this 
is  chased  or  hammered  in  delicate  and  attractive  designs. 
UtUity  as  well  as  beauty  are  the  guiding  principles.  The  often- 
times beautiful  old  nails  with  which  some  of  the  immense  doors 
are  studded  recall  the  splendid  relics  of  the  old  Mud^ar  style 
one  sees  in  Southern  Spain.  The  immense  baldachins  (tengai), 
which  hang  above  the  abbots'  seats  within  the  temples, 
require  unusually  strong  hooks  and  chains  to  hold  them. 
Brass  and  bronze  are,  in  fact,  as  much  employed  in  these 
structures  as  silver  is  in  the  Mexican  cathedrals.  The  general 
effect  is  at  once  gorgeous  and  delicate,  of  splendid  floridity, 
but  with  an  absence  of  massiveness  and  grandeur.  When  time 
has  stained  the  bronze  a  fine  grayish-green,  and  subdued  the 
rich  burnish  of  the  brass,  the  effect  is  still  more  pleasing. 
Even  the  plain  dullness  of  many  of  the  Shinto  shrines,  particu- 
larly those  influenced  by  Buddhism,  is  often  relieved  by  fine 

>  The  Dog  of  Fo  (or  Dog  Fo),  the  mythological  lion  so  often  represented 
in  Chineae  art,  symbolizes  the  Foh,  or  Fo,  a  (Chinese)  modification  of  Bod 
(Buddha),  and  by  extension  considered  the  guardian  of  Buddhist  (Fohist) 
temples.  It  is  supposed  to  be  able  to  drive  off  demons,  and  perhaps  for  this 
reason  is  employed  at  ShirUd  shrines  as  well.  In  Japan  they  are  known 
variously  as  ahiahi  (lions) ,  as  Korean  lions,  etc.  Generally  sculptured  out  of 
grav  granite,  or  cast  in  handsome  bronze  not  unfrequently  gilded  or  covered 
with  brilliant  paint,  they  are  seen  in  pairs  in  front  of  temples,  palaces,  and 
skiines,  or  beside  graves;  squatting  on  their  haunches,  with  their  curly  tails 
reaching  far  up  their  spines.  Officially  they  are  known  as  Koma-^nu  (lit., 
'Korean  do^,')  and  as  Ama-inu  (*  Heavenly  dog ').  Flippant  observers  say 
the  male  ammal  is  tiie  one  with  its  mouth  closed;  the  female  with  it  openi 

*  The  Tennin  (* Angels  of  Buddhism  ')  are  always  represented  as  lovely 

^oung  maidens,  dad  in  long  robes  of  many  colors,  hovering  in  the  air  play- 

mg  with  a  plectrum  upon  some  stringed  musical  instrument;  OT  intViA  «kO^ 

of  mmding'  the  JT-tube  Chineae  Bute  (still  used  in  sacred  conoerta  at  Bome 

arthe  templesh^d  in  similar  attitudes.    The  subject  was  a  f  avoilte  m^ 

u^^ohfectsin  the  ^hJSe  ^^Ti^{^^^^  t^l^^l  "^"^^ 


dhamii  KIRIN— PHCBNIX 

and  strong  brass  bindings  contrasting  splendidly  -mth  tha 
white  wood  of  which  they  are  constructed.  The  DscoRATioini 
may  properly  be  divided  into  monochromatic  and  polychro- 
matic. The  former  obeys  the  Shinto  canons,  and  is  seen  in 
temples  (frequently  in  the  abbots*  apartments),  construoted 
of  pure  white/  knotless  pine,  having  elaborately  chiseled  and 
embossed  metal  caps,  sockets,  and  bands  applied  to  the  emda 
of  projecting  timbers,  to  the  joints  of  pillars  and  beams,  to  the 
comers  of  frames  (door  and  panel),  and  to  the  bases  and  nedcB 
of  posts.  The  effect  is  well  described  as  '  an  appearance  of  palet 
ashen  gray  touched  up  richly  with  gold.'  The  decorator  uses 
fearlessly  the  greatest  variety  of  colors  in  juxtaposition,  but 
generally  separates  adjoining  tints  by  means  of  a  white  or  gold 
line.  The  scheme  may  broadly  be  described  as  mural  painting 
on  a  gold  ground;  carved  panels,  soUd  or  pierced,  the  carving 
heavily  ^t  and  sometimes  picked  out  with  various  c»ol<ms; 

Eillars  with  decorations  of  embroidered  drapery;  and  beams, 
rackets,  etc.,  colored  much  on  the  same  pnnci|de  as  the 
external  members.  The  charm  of  the  whole  is  greatly  enhanced 
by  the  features  of  the  surrounding  landscape  and  the  skillfuUy 
planned  approaches,  Vhich  are  matters  of  no  less  importaned 
in  the  eyes  of  the  Japanese  designer  than  the  structure  itadf 
and  its  decorations.*  The  lotus,  peony,  and  chrysanthemum 
often  appear  on  the  gold  lacquered  panels,  painted  by  the 
loving  hands  of  some  religious  devotee  of  the  past,  but  th^ 
more  often  form  the  motives  of  the  splendidly  carved  pandfl 
which  run  the  length  of  the  architrave  or,  as  pierced  wood- 
work, take  the  place  of  interior  walls.  The  ancient  Japanese 
wood  carving  is  marked  both  by  an  excellent  technique  in  the 
handling  of  this  perishable  material  and  by  a  bold  freedom  io 
design,  with  a  large  sweep  in  flowing  movement  as  a  conspicu- 
ous trait.  Much  of  it  is  aecorated  in  polychromatic  tints  with 
the  mythological  A^in,  phoenixes,  dragons,  tortoises,  flowers, 
etc.,  in  high  and  low  relief.  Not  unfrequently  the  carved  wood- 
work in  temples  is  left  uncolored. 

According  to  the  old  Chinese  natural  history  Man  stands  at  the  head  d 
all  naked  animals;  the  Ki-lin  ('gira£fe')  leads  and  protects  hairy  itn^inftlfi 
the  Phoenix  represents  the  feathered  creation;  the  Dragon  stands  at  thi 
head  of  scaly  animals;  and  the  Turtle  represents  and  protects  all  «»^»i»naV 
provided  with  a  shell. 

The  Ki-lin  (Japanese  Kirin)^  a  sort  of  Far  Eastern  hippograph,  ia  pifr 
tured  as  resembling  a  stag  in  its  body  and  a  horse  in  its  hoofs,  but  pooooarini 
the  tail  of  an  ox,  and  a  parti-colored,  or  scaly  skin.  A  single  horn  is  uaualb 
shown  on  its  forehead,  whence  the  common  belief  that  it  is  the  Tnyanri 
conception  of  a  unicorn.  It  is  a  favorite  subject  with  sculptors  and  pamtcia 
and  is  often  represented  on  tombs,  in  temples,  etc.  It  is  said  to  appear  at 
the  QartJi  but  once  in  a  millennium,  or  when  some  transcendentally  gnai 
man  or  sage,  like  Buddha  or  Confucius,  is  bom.  It  is  revered  by  Budohitll 
because  of  its  great  benevolence  toward  other  animals;  it  never  traads  on  fivf 
things  new  eats  grass. 

The  PhflBniz,  or  HSwd,  so  popular  as  an  art  motive,  and  which  is  ao  ofM 

snd  so  eJaborately  represented  in  the  mausolea  of  the  shdqunMf  on.  tti 

coffered  ceilings  of  the  Alikado*a  palaces  and  elw^hete,  ia  considered  bgf  tti 


THE  DRAGON  clxxix 

Japanese  the  king  of  birds,  whence  its  frequent  appearance  in  painted  or 
sculptured  form  (coounon  also  in  Syria)  on  the  tombs  of  emperors,  on 
palanquins,  buildlngH,  etc.  The  Chinese  phoenix,  from  which  the  Japanese 
Bdnived,  is  probably  based  on  the  Argus  pheasant;  it  is  sui>posed  to  appear 
on  the  earth  at  or  near  the  birth  jof  a  good  ruler,  wherefore  it  is  the  emblem 
of  peace  and  good  government.  In  Chinese  the  male  is  called  fung^  or  Ao, 
and  the  female  voang,  or  too,  whence  the  generic  name  /ung^htoang  or  howo. 
It  is  described  as  adorned  with  every  color,  and  combining  in  its  form  and 
motions  whatever  is  graceful  and  elegant,  while  it  possesses  such  a  benevo- 
lent disposition  that  it  will  not  peck  or  injure  living  insects,  nor  tread  on 
growing  herbs.  like  the  ki4in,  it  has  not  been  seen  since  the  halcyon  days 
of  Confucius,  and,  from  the  account  given  of  it,  it  seems  to  have  been 
entbely  fabulous.  The  et^miology  of  the  character  implies  that  it  is  the 
emperor  of  all  birds.  One  Chinese  author  describes  it  *  as  resembling  a  wild 
swan  before  and  a  unicorn  behind;  it  has  the  throat  of  a  swallow,  the  bill 
of  a  cock,  the  neck  of  a  snake,  the  tail  of  a  fish,  the  forehead  of  a  crane,  the 
crown  of  a  mandarin  drake,  the  stripes  of  a  dragon,  and  the  vaulted  back 
of  a  tortoise.  The  feathers  have  five  colors,  which  are  named  after  the  five 
cardinal  vutues,  and  it  is  five  cubits  in  height;  the  tail  is  graduated  like 
Ptuidean  pipes,  and  its  song  resembles  the  music  of  that  insUiiment,  having 
five  modulations.'  Virtue,  obedience,  justice,  fidelity,  and  benevolence  are 
symbolised  in  the  decorations  on  its  head«  wings,  body,  and  breast.  It  is  a 
favorite  decoration  for  musical  instiiiments  and  is  frequentiy  interwoven  in 
fabrics.  Some  authorities  find  a  strong  resemblance  between  this  phcenix 
and  the  qtulzaUi  (the  Central  American  trogon)  of  tiie  Mexica.  It  bears  a 
yet  stronger  likeness  to  the  remarkable  South  American  Hoaotzin  (jOpia- 
thocomtu  cristatus),  and  it  may  be  more  than  a  mere  coincidence  that  the 
first  syllable  of  the  name  of  this  bird  should  be  the  same  as  that  of  the 
kiwd. 

The  Dragon  (tafou),  a  familiar  object  in  Japanese  decorative  art,  appears 
m  the  paintings  and  carvings  of  temples,  dwellings,  and  tombs;  is  stamped 
on  the  old  siver  coins;  is  cut  in  low  and  high  relief  on  the  native  bronse  and 
alver;  painted  on  lacquer,  and  is  woven  in  the  silk  brocades,  etc.  It  is  the 
emblem  of  vigilance  and  strength,  and  like  many  of  the  art  motives,  origin- 
ated with  the  Chinese,  to  whom  it  furnishes  a  comparison  of  everything  that 
is  terrible,  imposing,  and  powerful.  As  it  is  there  taken  as  the  Imperial  coat 
of  arms,  it  consequently  imparts  these  ideas  to  the  Chinese  person  and  state. 
There  are  3  Chinese  dragons,  the  lung  in  the  sky,  the  li  in  the  sea,  and  the 
kiao  in  the  marshes.  It  has  the  head  of  a  camel,  the  horns  of  a  deer,  eyes  of 
a  rabbit,  earsfof  a  cow,  neck  of  a  snake,  belly  of  a  frog,  scales  of  a  carp,  claws 
of  a  hawk,  and  palm  of  a  tiger.  On  each  side  of  its  mouth  are  whiskers,  and 
its  beard  contains  a  bright  pearl.  The  lung-wang,  or  '  dragon  king,'  answers 
to  Neptune  in  W.  mythology,  and  is  worshiped  and  feared  by  the  fishermen. 
The  &<;law  dragon  is  reserved  for  the  Imperial  use;  that  with  4  claws  being 
in  use  by  the  commonalty.  The  Japanese  dragon  is  a  slight  modification  of 
the  Chinese,  looking  to  foreigners  like  the  Old  Scratch  himself,  or  a  winged 
crocodile  with  a  tufted  snout,  and  cruel  and  malicious  eyes.  *To  the  credu- 
loas  among  the  natives  it  is  a  positive  entity  which  exerts  more  or  less 
influence  over  their  lives.  Serious  native  writers  have  time  and  again,  and 
with  ponderous  and  whimsical  minuteness,  solemnly  described  this  fabu- 
lous monster  to  the  smallest  detail  of  his  daily  life;  explaining  how  in  the 
spring  it  lives  in  heaven,  in  the  autumn  in  the  water,  in  the  summer  among 
the  clouds,  and  in  the  winter  dormant  in  the  earth.  Volumes  have  been  writ- 
ten about  the  several  varieties  created  to  disturb  the  dreams  of  the  native 
clodhoppers  —  the  yellow,  violet,  green,  red,  white,  black,  and  flying 
dragon,  those  with  and  without  scales  and  horns;  how  the  breath  of  the  white 
dragon  enters  the  earth  and  is  transmuted  into  gold;  how  the  spume  of  the 
violet  dragon  becomes  balls  of  pure  crystal,  of  which  gems  and  caskets  are 
made;  and  how  certain  of  them,  who  take  their  pleasure  in  killing  human 
beings,  possess  the  amazing  ability  to  see  everything  within  a  hxmidx^ 
leunies.'^ 
^e  fact  that  the  Grat  among  the  young  dragons  is  a  happy  creatuie,  ajid 

«u(7  %^ugoa  zaoe  and  providing  eara  to  \ian&  t\iQ 


UDBtea  oE  this  dnwQa  upon  tboni :  the  5th  ih  a  Rnat  deBtroyer  of  livl 


. ._  — ^ ..  _  „.._.  — _'liirii« 

tbinB8.  fond  oF  kdlins  and  btoodaJLiK].  therefore  sh-ordH  are  deooratod  «iu 
"      '       e;  the  6th  lovea  leal    ' 
itle-pagea  of  booba  az 


n  figure;  the  6tb  lovea  learuiDe  and  dclighta  in  litcralun.  besflt 
'    ■'  rnry  worksshow  hii  pinlu«;lil 


—  ,-  — ^- — 4;  tliB  Sth  eojoys  tdttizv.  hei 

Its  iinagiMi  the  Bth  loves  tu  bear  weight,  thentn 
ibaiM  ore  shaped  like  hia  feet.'  {GriJJi,.  MilHifi 

, „.-  ifl  the  EaOHt  powerful  ojiiroAl  in  existenoe,  n  lltt 

I*  o(  the  Hllcsdo  are  oalled  '  draKoa  roboi,'  hie  [ace  Uie  ,ibHai 


ecmntflouiea^'  fala  body  the  '  dra^D  bodv  '  the  '  ruffling  of  the  dnimi'l 
w^eg'  Ue  doplmuure,  and  his  auKer  the  '^dmgon'a  wrath.'  The  dnfoo  '■ 
lo  the  Chinese  and  JapaoBss  what  the  grilBn  was  to  the  early  Gmki.  Uld  I 

geated  by  the  naht  nf  the  other. 

TheTiKtoiae  (ChiDMe,  jtuui;  Jejianese,  kame)  boa  many  f abuloiu  quaUlIi 
attributed  to  it,  aud  it  aymbohBea  loDcevity. 

Reli^ous  themes  are  more  often  expreaeed  with  Uie  duM 
than  with  the  bniah,  and  many  templcH  contain  carviup 
deiucting  incidenta  ia  the  lives  of  fuddha's  chosen  diaoiida; 
in  those  of  notable  examplefl  of  filial  piety  enshrined  in  tin 
Cbineae  (rlamce:  in  the  life  of  Buddha  himself  and  of  eeoiti 
of  the  saintB  ana  sinners  eupjiosed  to  have  been  influenced  \a 
him  during  his  last  incamatLon,  Good  examples  of  this  mu 
may  be  seen  in  the  technically  excellent  and  amazingly  intri- 
cate door  and  wail  panels  of  the  Narila  Temple  desenbed  ki 
Rte.  13.  Many  temples  posseEB  veritable  marvels  of  Klypticart, 
which,  if  they  do  not  always  form  an  integral  part  of  the  etiw- 
ture,  are.  inseparably  associated  with  Eeratic  architectuie-  I 
While  some  fanes  preserve  a  dozen  or  wore  skillfully  cbiseled  { 
seated  or  standing  images  of  the  tutelar  saint,  the  founder  of 
the  institution,  Buddha  or  his  disciples,  or  native  or  imported 
gods,  others  have  hundreds  (even  thousands)  crowded  inU 
U)em.  The  freauently  recurring  600  Rakkan  arc  notable  exam- 
ples of  this  prodigality.  Foreign  critics  r^ard  some  of  them  as 
greatly  at  variance  with  the  oftentimes  exj^uisiteiy  harmoni- 
ous enaembk  of  gold-lacquer,  painted  drai>erieB,  and  the  wealth 
of  diaper-work  in  low  fine  tones  characteristic  of  certain  (anee. 
The  Buddbiet  temples  of  Japan  have  no  crypts.  The  TimtFLU 
Flooks  are  usualW  of  wood,  and  these  are  oftentimes  covond 
with  soft  mats  ol  the  same  size  as  those  used  in  dwellings. 
Many  of  the  temple  corridors,  particularly  in  and  about 
KyBto,  are  laid  with  boords  so  loosely  nailed  that  they  rise 
perceptibly  to  the  footfall,  and,  by  rubbing  one  against  another, 
pToducp  a  plaintive  tweaking,  or  cn>ak.inK  noise,  soft  and  not 
unmusical,  and  which  suggestB  ttie  WAlcntvtcS  fewtjav -^tjim^, 
birds  in  a,  nest.  They  are  caHedUBuiB-uAiaTi  ^;raC\'KBnAfc 
Soois. '  from  the  resemblajice  ol  tte  soua4  \»  a  a\^\.\B»ii£» 


SHINTO  ABCHITBCTUBE 

ib),  and  axe  attributed  "to  an  imrtriiiatiTe  qraftoman  who 
liboutdOOyra.  aso.  See  Buddhiant,  p.  dbcodx. 
he  Mainoiea  are  pUnned  di£fereiitly  &CM^ 
Art  of  three  buildings  ennnite:  an  oratory,  flank^on  DOth 
I  tvy  an  antechamber;  an  mterval  room,  and  a  sanctuary, 
re  are  two  indosures  and  an  outer  one  surrounded  by  a 
ci  cloisters;  the  general  sch^ne-of  decoration  is  on  a  mudi 
B  elaJborate  and  magnificent  scale  than  that  of  the  templeB. 
f  beionp  properly  to  a  later  epoch,  that  of  Yedo,  ana  an 
e  seen  m  perfection  in  TOkyO  and  at  NikkG,  where  the 
es  of  some  of  the  Tokugawa  shdffuns  are  interred.  It  may 
rify  said  of  them  that  they  display  Japanese  deooratiye 
n  its  most  profuse  and  splendid  stage.  The  interiors  are 
Bitimai  a  curious  blend  of  polished  black  and  fsorgeoua 
n,  but  the  overhanging  roofs  shut  out  esEoessiTe  light  and 
midiat  would  otherwise  be  i^baring  defects.  The  exteriors 
tf  ten  in  sharp  contrast  to  those  of  ev&i  the  richest  temples, 
show  a  perfect  riot  of  color  and  ornamentation.  The  color 
OS  with  the  lintels  or  ties  near  the  top  of  the  poets  at  pillaxB^ 
horn,  this  height  the  different  beams  and  brackets,  together 
:  the  flat  spaces  and  raised  carvings  between  are  diapovd. 
eequed,  and  variously  picked  out  in  bri^^t  colors  ana 
ng.  The  treatment  imparts  a  light  elegance  to  the  other- 
ponderous  eaves,  and  the  deep  sun-shadows  beneath  Uie 
■ve  projections  assist  in  subduinj;  and  harmonizing  the 
oon&aat  of  color  employed.  Adjuncts  of  the  mortuary 
les  are  Hie  Tombs  {kaka)  of  which  the  finest  exam^es 
at  are  those  in  T5ky5  and  Nikk5.  They  usually  stand  at 
t>ack  or  tiie  side  of  the  shrines,  albeit  m  some  cases  the 
le  may  be  in  one  spot  and  the  tomb  miles  away  in  another 
Gienerally  of  heavy  bronze  or  massive  monolithic  granite, 
aro  remarkable  chieflyfor  the  decorative  quality  of  their 
ze  sates  or  fitments.  The  shape  is  most  always  that  of  a 
Buddhist  pagoda  (h^o)  or  'treasure  shrine.'  Some  of  t^ 
examines,  erected  to  tlie  memory  of  dead  ahdguns,  have 
nd  from  vandalism. 

Vn.    Shinto  Architecture.  The  Torii. 

dntO  Architecture  (comp.  p.  ccxiv),  though  somewhat  pic- 
ique,  18  trivial  and  witnout  character  —  lacking  solidity, 
(j^  and  durability.  The  first  shrine  is  said  to  nave  be^ 
iea  during  the  first  century  before  the  Christian  era,  prior 
hidh  wcNTship  was  conducted  in  the  open  air.  The  perish- 
niktare  of  the  wood  employed  in  its  construction  makes  it 
**He  to  renew  the  building  every  20  yrs.^  which  accounts 
"momative  lack  of  very  ancient  shrmes  of  thia  fSulLt. 

~  die  piimitiva  Jspaneae  '  irere  oonstnioted  of  young  tram 
V  Mgiffoed  together  with  ropes  made  of  t^e  raSb  wq« 


cboKii  THE  TORII 

(9curp%ts  morAtmiM),  or  with  the  tou^  shoots  of  the  wistaria,  and  tiiatited 
with  the  grass  called  kaya.  The  uprights  were  planted  in  holes  diiff  in  4* 
ground.  The  ground  plan  of  the  hut  was  oblong,  with  four  comer  upxidit^ 
and  one  in  the  middle  of  each  of  the  four  sides,  those  in  th6  sidee  wmk 
formed  the  ends  being  long  enough  to  support  the  ridge-pole.  Other  tnii 
were  fastened  horizontally  from  comer  to  comer,  one  set  near  the  gtoatdt 
one  near  the  top,  and  one  set  on  the  top,  the  latter  of  which  formed  irftft 
are  now  called  wall-plates.  Two  large  rafters,  whose  upper  ends  crossed  etflh 
other,  were  laid  from  the  wall-plates  to  the  heads  of  the  taller  uprights.  Tkt 
ridge-pole  restejd  in  the  fork  formed  by  the  upper  ends  of  l^e  Tstten  crooBBff 
each  other.   Horizontal  poles  were  then  laid  along  each  slope  of  the  net 
one  pair  being  fastened  dose  up  to  the  exterior  angle  of  the  fork.  Tin 
rafters  were  slender  poles  or  bamboos  passed  over  the  ridge-pole  ui 
fastened  down  on  each  end  to  the  wall-plates.    Next  followed  the  prooM 
of  putting  on  the  thatch.  In  order  to  keep  this  in  place  two  trees  were  Ud 
along  the  top  resting  in  the  forks,  and  across  these  two  trees  were  piuti 
short  logs  at  equal  distances,  which  being  fastened  to  the  poles  m  tht 
exterior  angle  of  the  forks  by  ropes  passed  through  the  thatch,  bound  tht 
ridge  of  the  roof  firmly  together.    The  walls  and  doors  were  constructed  ti 
rough  matting.  Specimens  of  the  ancient  style  of  building  may  sret  be  sea 
in  remote  parts  of  the  country,  not  perhaps  so  much  in  the  habitations  of  tin 
peasantry,  as  in  sheds  erected  to  serve  a  temi>orary  purpose. 

'  The  construction  of  Shinto  temples  is  derived  from  this  primeval  hot 
with  more  or  less  modification  in  proportion  to  the  influence  of  Buddhka 
in  each  particular  case.  Those  of  the  purest  style  retain  the  thatched  ted, 
without  which  the3^  are  not  considered  as  being  in  strict  conformity  with  ik$ 
principles  of  genuine  Shintoshjine  architecture  —  which  to  foreignen  li 
as  disappointing  in  its  simplicity  as  it  is  in  its  perishable  nature.  Sane  d 
the  structures  are  roofed  with  the  (strikingly  handsome)  thick  fthi'wHl 
called  Hiwcuia-buki  (bark  of  the  hinoki  tree),  while  others  have  tUedTaiM 
(sometimes)  copper-bronze  roofs.    The  projecting  ends  of  the  raften  have 
been  somewhat  lengthened^  and  carved  more  or  less  elaborately;  in  tiie 
majority  of  cases  they  consist  merely  of  two  pieces  of  wood  in  the  fonn  el 
the  letter  X  (and  called  chigi)  or  a  pair  of  horns,  which  rest  on  the  roof-iidli 
like  a  sawhorse.    The  logs  which  kept  the  two  trees  laid  on  the  lidfea 
their  place  have  taken  the  form  of  short  cylindrical  pieces  of  timber  ta|NP* 
ing  toward  each  extremity,  which  have  been  compared  to  cigars.  In  JaM>^ 
ese  they  are  called  katsuo-gi,  from  their  resemblance  to  the  pieces  of  mied 
bonito  (aarda  sarda)  sold  under  the  name  katauo-bushi.  The  two  trees  IsU 
along  the  roof  over  the  thatch  are  represented  by  a  single  beam,  oaDad 
tnunaosae,  or  '  roof-presser.'    Planking  has  taken  the  place  of  the  null 
with  which  the  sides  of  the  building  were  originally  closed,  and  the  entraaoe 
is  closed  by  a  pair  of  folding  doors  turning,  not  on  hinges,  but  on  joumali. 
The  primeval  hut  had  no  flooring,  but  we  find  the  shrine  with  a  wooden  floor 
raised  some  feet  above  the  ground,  which  arrangement  necessitates  a  sort 
of  baicony^  all  round,  and  a  flight  of  steps  up  to  the  entrance.  ^The  trans- 
formation is  completed  in  some  cases  by  the  sidditions  of  a  quantity  of  onsf 
mental  metal-work  in  brass.'  This  is  not  admissible  in  the  pur^  f(xm  o( 
Shinto  architecture,  and  where  it,  along  with  lacquer,  is  found,  it  indioslei 
Buddhist  influence.  —  At  the  foundation  and  construction  of  sacred  tempte 
young  virgins  cleared  and  leveled  the  ground,  dug  holes  for  the  comv 
posts,  took  the  axe  and  made  the  first  cut  in  the  trees  to  be  felled  for  timbffi 
etc.   The  pure  and  simple  Shinto  temple,  inclusive  of  the  torii,  is  usuaUjf 
built  of  the  white  wood  of  the  ChamoBcyparis  obtusa,  and  roofed  over  witt 
the  bark  of  this  tree  (as  was  also  the  palace  of  the  Mikado  at  KyMOi 
regarded  as  the  dwelling  of  a  Kami  sojourning  on  earth  and  acting  a* 
mediator  between  the  Japanese  people  and  the  gods).    Hinoki  and  aakaki 
are  the  plants  specially  dedicated  to  Aramt-halls,  as  they  were  (and  stiU  ar4 
the  holy  plants  of  the  sun-goddess.    During  the  erection  of  a  temi^e  Ihl 
builder  must  live  by  certain  rules,  must  go  to  work  washed,  barefooted,  and 
in  white  clothing,  and  must,  moreover,  observe  stringent  rules  with  niiud 
to  implements  and  building-materials.   (Comp.  Rte.  35.) 

The  Torii  is  a  recognized  synonym  for  a  Shintd  shrine,  and 
certain  ones  (particumrly  those  showing  Budcihist  influeooo) 


PAG0BA9  dbco&i 

Itnmldn  of  the  gorgeous- pyloiw  of  EJgyptjthe  paUoQ 
na;  and  the  elaborate  ^ioraiu  of  Central'  India.  The 
kioiL  ai  the  word  is  in  doubt.  Some  believe  it  comes  from 
paileBe  tortf  ('to  penetrate,"to  pace  through '>^^vdiilft 
1  it  as  a  roOst  for  the  f owis  (forii)  which  (aocordinff 
r)  wexe  set  to  crowing  outiside  the  cave  into  whi£ 
had  retreated,  in  order  to  convince  her  that» 
it  her  glorious  light,  mom  had  dawned.    It  is 
B  ^this  l^^d  that  barnyard  fowls  found  a  place  among 
irincB  to  the  goddess,  and  the  torii  is  supposed  to^rpify 
tw  llieJai)anese  torn  d^ers  but  slightly  mim  the  Hmdu 
[Sanskrit:  torana),  and  conosts  di  the  same  upright 
on  each  side,  with  a  projecting  OToss-piece  resting  upon 
Ihstead  of  the  customary  three  cross-pieces  super* 
d|  the  Japanese  structure  is  topped  by  a  sm^  straight 
imise  ends  project  slightly,  with  a  small  hori»mtal 
midenieath  with  non-proiecting  ends.    In  all  mure 
temples  the  torii  is  generally  of  unpainted  wood.  Foiv 
it' was  erected  on  any  side  of  the  temple  indifferently, 
later  times  (not  improbably  after  the  ihtroduc^on  of 
iim;  assuming  that  the  Buddhists  <M  not  bring  it  with 
ita  off^^nal  meaning  seems  to  have  been  forgotten^  and 
hi  front  only,  and  was  reg^trded  as  a  gateway  (as 
ntish  India  to-da^).  Tablets  with  inscriptions  (^io^u) 
laoed  on  tibe  torii  with  this  belief,  but  one  of  the  first 
tiie  ShiMiHMa  (in  the  course  of  the  purification  of  their 
consequent  to  the  disestablishment  of  Buddhism)  was 
)ve  th»9e  tablets.  —  The  Buddhists  made  their  iMii  of 
3ronze,  hollow  iron,  or  of  wood  painted  red,  and  they 
)ed  the  various  forms  seen  in  Japan  to-day.  Sometimes 
cQy  massive  ^nite  Unii  are  erected  by  groups  of  per- 
lo  odieve  their  petitions  have  been  answered,  and  these 
res  form  noble  figures  in  the  landscape,  —  suggestmg 
BB  muezains  calling  the  devotees  to  prayer.  The  num- 
Com  which  may  be  erected  to  a  divinity  is  unlimited. 
xls  of  red  ones  often  stand  in  the  vicinity  of  shrines  to 


,  Plagodas.  Feudal  Castles.  Bridges.  Land- 
scape Gardens.  Dwarfing. 

Fssoday  or  'Five-storied  Chinese  Temple '  (gqjuHno^d), 
b^e^^  by  the  Chinese  to  be  of  native  design,  is  more 
li  IGndu  origin.  The  word  is  an  Anglican  corruption 
Ftoraian  buinkadah  Cidol  temple  0-  Pagodas  are  often 
ar  laiige  Buddhist  temples,  and  their  brilliant  vermilion 
Biaad  tall  forms  make  them  striking  and  picturesque 
^Andsoape  t—  particularly  when  set  amidst  g^n 
t^^titey  vary  in  height  from  5  to  13  QWneB|.aM 


rclxxnv  FEUDAL  CASTLES 

arc  UBUaUy  built  so  soUdly  that  they  stand 
According  to  the  Keomancers  the  pagoda  'acts 
trautor  lo  draw  down  every  felicitouH  omen  from  above,  n 
that  fire,  water,  wood,  carlh,.  and  metnl  will  be  at  the  seraM 
of  the  people,  the  soil  productive,  trade  prosperous,  and  Ibe 
natives  HubmisEive  and  happy.  Therefore  the  presence  ot  todi 
an  edifice  not  only  uecures  to  the  site  the  protection  of  Beaveo, 
if  it  bears  evidence  of  already  enjoying  it,  but  repreasea  aq* 
evil  influence  that  may  be  native  to  the  spot,  and  imparlBtO 

»it  the  most  salutary  and  felicitous  omens. 
In  Japan  these  polygonal  etructures  are  usually  of  6  storiei 
and  about  150  ft.  high.  They  are  about  24  ft.  sq.  at  the  btm, 
and  each  of  the  4  upper  stories  recedes  somewhat  from  thtt 
below  it.  Heavy  timbers  are  used  in  their  constructioD,  tnd 
some  of  them  are  framed  and  braced  upon  the  inade  in  aiA 
a  comphcated  manner  that  there  ia  barely  room  for  tim 
ladder-like  staircase  which  leads  from  stage  to  stage.  In  thoe 
a  central  post  of  huge  dimensions,  sometimes  3  ft.  in  diamelK 
and  diminishing  toward  the  top,  is  framed  in  the  apex  of  tto 
structure,  while  the  lower  end  barely  touches  the  central  atone 
block.  Architects  differ  in  their  opinions  as  to  the  purpoaerf 
this  monstrous  central  beam.  According  tosome.  it  is  intendtd 
to  stiffen  the  tower  against  swaying  in  the  wind,  and  Uia 
length  is  so  calculated  that,  after  the  various  Btages  of  i1h 
tower  have  shrunk  and  settled,  the  central  post  shall  juBt  bar 
upon  its  stone  base.  The  second  hypothesis,  and  perhapB  (b* 
correct  one,  —  tor  it  can  be  verified  by  an  inspection  of  p^o- 
das  50  or  more  yrs.  old,  and  which  have  settled  all  they  lalDt- 
rally  would  settle,  —  is  that  by  the  clever  suapenMon  of  ths 
beam  it  acts  Uke  a  vast  pendulum  or  gyroscope,  and  dunngul 
earthquake  (which  the  pagodas  usually  withstand)  the  crater 
of  gravity  is  kept  withm  the  base.  In  some  of  the  JapanM 
pagodas  the  room  at  the  bottom  is  devoted  Ui  a  shrine  ood-  n 
tsining  some  relic  or  image  of  Buddha  or  one  of  his  disuplei, 
The  Japanese  seem  to  have  lost  their  ancient  confidence  in  the 
protection  supposed  to  he  built  inlj]  them,  for  it  ia  rare  tOSM  I 
a  new  one,  ana  the  decrepit  condition  of  most  of  those  extant  I 
indicates  the  weakness  of  faith  in  them.  Good  specimeni  of  | 
the  ordinary  pagoda  may  be  aeen  in  Uyeno  Park,  or  at  Aaakun, 
in  T6ky5,  and  a  very  elaoorate  one  stands  on  the  middle  terrace 
of  the  temple  grounds  at  Narita.  It  seems  that  the  original 
pagodas  —  perhaiH  an  elaboration  of  the  Indian  dagoba  — 
were  raised  over  relics  of  Buddha,  the  bones  of  some  saint,  V 
what-not,  The  ornamental  bells  which  awing  from  the  eavet 
of  some  pagodas  are  called  h  dehaku. 

Feudal  Castles  {shird)  at  onetime  dotted  Japan  fmmAomori 

to  Kagosbima;  those  whicb  remam  mc  b.\:  qti-w.  \fea  toj«. 

grandiose,    enduring,  and  masewe  HTOAimcoa  tA  -itaR  tiiww 

arolutecture.  Built  originaSly  (.aiteubs  ^o^w^"**^^^^'!^ 


FEUDAL  CASTLES  cboxv 

daimyde  as  a  combination  of  fortress  and  residence,  they  are 
mch  lofty  and  imposing  structures  that  certain  critics  class 
than  among  the  finest  architectural  monuments  of  Elastem 
Asia.  'The  colossal  masses  of  rock  seem  all  the  more  coloasol 
after  one  has  become  familiar  with  the  tiny  and  perishable 
dwellings  of  the  country.  In  the  walls  of  the  Osaka  fortress* 
(which  once  ranked  as  the  finest  castle  in  Japan)  are  single 
blocks  of  stone  —  at  great  heights  above  the  surrounding 
level  of  the  region  —  measuring  in  some  cases  from  30  to  36  ft. 
in  length,  and  at  least  15  ft.  in  height.  These  huge  blocks  have 
been  transported  long  distances  from  the  mts.  many  miles 
aw»y  from  the  city.  The  finished  structures  prove  that  the 
JaiMmese  are  quite  competent  to  erect  such  buildings,  if  the 
national  taste  had  inclined  them  in  that  way.'  As  a  rule  these 
dtadels  are  of  great  extent  and  solidity,  and  are  marvels  of 
engineering  skiU.  The  inunensely  heavy  blocks  of  sranite, 
placed  one  on  top  of  the  other,  lead  one  to  believe  t£at  the 
early  Japanese  practiced  the  Mexican  expedient  in  such  cases, 
by  Duilmng  a  sloping  runway  of  earth  and  rolling  the  stones 
up  this  to  thxai  final  positions.  Though  ostensibly  built  of 
stone,  the  citadels  are  in  reality  wooden  buildings  of  great 
strength,  faced  with  slanting  walls  of  squared  stones.  The 
structure  may  be  likened  to  vast  blocks  so  arranged^  one  on 
the  other,  that  each  wall  is  of  pyramidal  shape,  slantmg  from 
the  base  to  iiie  apex  in  the  ancient  Egyptian  manner.  They 
are  supported  from  within,  and  are  tied  together  with  timbers 
of  great  size.  Richness  of  detail  is  less  aimed  at^than  the  general 
effect  resulting  from  the  g-andeur  and  harmony  of  the  propor- 
tions of  the  buildings.  The  sq.  towers  several  stories  high, 
oected  in  the  castle  precincts,  and  serving  as  watch-towers, 
are  called  tenahu;  the  first  is  said  to  have  been  erected  in  the 
castle  of  Taman,  in  1567,  by  Mataunaga  Hisahide.  Somer- 
saulting grampuses  {shachi-hoko)  are  so  often  pictured  stand- 
ing on  their  heads,  with  tails  in  the  air,  on  the  tops  of  these 
structures,  that  the  vernacular  expression  for  standing  on  one's 
head  is  now  ahachihokodachi.  The  splendid  castle  walls  (as 
well  as  many  others  throughout  the  Empire)  command  admir- 
ation for  their  massiveness  and  excellent  construction.  Some 
bear  a  striking  resemblance  to  the  strongly  built,  crenelated 
stone  wfdls  or  curtains  of  the  magnificent  old  citadels  of  British 
India,  and  it  is  not  unhkely  that  the  early  Buddhists  had  some- 
thing to  do  with  their  development  in  Japan.  While  the  ma- 
sonry of  certain  of  them  is  constructed  of  ashler  in  the  manner 
described  at  p.  613,  in  others  granite  blocks  are  cut  in  the  form 
of  a  cone,  wiih  the  face  a  ft.  or  more  sq.  tapering  3  ft.  (or  in 
lioportion)  to  a  point.  When  squared  witn  a  nicety  which 
aoggests  jewder's  work,  the  stones  (without  a  binding  material, 
aft«  the  manner  of  Egyptian  and  Babylonian  architecture) 
"^  pkoed  in  positioii  and  earth  and  rubble  are  sifted  between 


dxxxvi  BRIDGES 

the  conical  terminals.  When  mich  walls  are  built  against 
side  they  soon  become  almost  an  int^ral  part  or  it,  ai 
excellent  condition  which  they  retain  points  to  the  m< 
the  method.  The  moats  which  customarily  surround 
walls  date  from  very  early  times.  The  castles  themselve 
'  the  outgrowth  of  feudalism,  and  were  first  brought  to  { 
degree  of  strength  and  completeness  during  the  Tok 
shoguncUe.  Few  views  are  more  satisfying  than  those 
midst  of  which  a  noble  old  white  castle  surmounts  a  ] 
from  which  a  splendid  seascape  is  visible.  The  tourist 
ested  in  this  phase  of  native  architecture  should  visit 
the  castle  at  Nagova  (Rte.  24)  or  that  at  Himeji  (Rt< 
The  innermost  citadel  of  a  castle  is  hommaru;  inside  the 
wall  is  marunouchi:  the  inner  wall,  ninomaru:  the  outei 
sannomani. 

I  Bridges  (hashif  or  hashi)  in  curious  and  distinctive 
are  conspicuous  and  picturesque  figures  in  the  Japanese 
scape;  many  are  of  great  historical  interest.  They  rai 
type  from  tne  curious  taiko-bdshi,  or  drum-bridges,  ofte: 
in  the  yards  of  temples  and  shrines  (^ood  example  at  Kai 
Tokyo),  to  the  primitive  man-nen,  or  Hen-thousand- 
bridges,  which  in  curious  contrast  to  their  grandiloquent 
are  often  merely  a  plank  or  twin  bamboos  lashed  to  timl 
boulders  on  either  bank  of  a  stream.  The  art  of  bridg 
struction  was  taught  by  the  Chinese  coincident  with  the 
duction  and  spread  of  Buddhism.  One  of  the  most  fam 
the  native  bndges  is  the  new  but  historical  Nihon-ba 
T5ky6.  The  still  more  remarkable  Kintai-kyOy  or  *  Bri< 
the  Brocade  Girdle,*  a  ciuious  monument  of  antiquity, 
scribed  in  Rte.  38.  The  most  striking  peculiarities  of  the 
bridges  are  the  demi-lune  spans,  and  the  bronze  gibosku 
surmount  the  posts  —  Buddhistic  in  suggestion  and  s 
bear  reference  to  a  treasure  called  Boahi  no  Maya  (*Bu< 
mother's  hat')-  The  beautiful  red  lacquered  sacred  bri 
Nikko  is  a  good  example  of  the  character  imparted  tc 
structures  by  the  addition  of  brass  and  other  metal, 
bizarre  Tsurirbashiy  or  hanging-bridge  mentioned  in  R 
is  perhaps  a  modern  development  of  the  primitive  b 
ferry  {kago  no  watashi),  in  which  a  stout  hawser  of 
or  iron-creeper  {kurogane  modoshi)  is  stretched  from 
to  bank  of  a  stream.  On  this  hawser,  suspended  by  a 
noose,  a  kago  of  bamboo  or  twisted  creepers  runs  \a 
fro.  *The  simplest  method  of  crossing  is  to  get  inl 
basket  and  let  coolies  haul  one  over.  If  the  coolies  a 
forthcoming,  the  transit  requires  considerable  skill  and 
on  the  part  of  the  traveler  himself.  On  getting  into  tJi 
he  grasps  the  hawser  with  both  hands,  presses  the  feet 
on  the  bottom  of  the  cage,  and  then,  by  a  succession  ol 
like  jerks,  performs  the  voyage  over.  The  great  tbini 


LANDSCAPE  GARDENS  olxxxvii 

basket  under  the  control  of  the  feet,  otherwise  he  is 
d  himself  hanging  in  mid-air  with  the  basket  behind, 
iling  torrent  below.'  Other  cmious  bridges  are  de- 
1  ^eir  proper  places  throughout  the  Guidebook.  The 
;es  are  constructed  along  modem  lines.  The  majority 
ler  native  bridges  are  of  wood. 

:ape  Gardens  {kd-en;  niwa,  etc.)  have  been  popular 
since  the  art  was  introduced  from  China  in  the  6th 
eir  local  development  wasgradusJ  until  the  14th  cent., 
became  very  fashionable  to  have  a  classical  garden, 
in  of  them  took  on  then  the  elegant  aspects  which  at 
characterize  them.  Great  progress  was  made  dining 
ary  epoch,  chiefly  in  and  about  Ky6to.  where  some 
est  of  the  Japanese  gardens  are  still  to  be  found. 

early  years  of  the  13th  cent,  the  first  treatise  on  the  subject 
ram  the  pen  of  Yoshitaune  Gokyogoku;  by  giving  to  everything 
i»  be  invested  it  with  a  motive,  and  for  expressing  the  various 
inmal  rules,  many  of  them  purely  conventional,  were  laid  down, 
to  take  the  outline  of  a  tortoise  or  a  crane.  An  island  might  be  a 
I  field,  a  strip  of  seashore,  a  cloud  in  the  distance,  a  sandy-beach, 
one,  or  the  bank  of  a  stream.  A  waterfall  was  either  full-face  or 
[mentary  or  complete,  uniform  or  stepped,  comer  or  side,  single 
A  stream,  if  it  ran  from  E.  to  S.  then  W.  was  regular;  if  it  flowed 
B.  it  was  inverse.  If  it  did  not  rise  in  a  lake,  a  country  path  should 
Ml  with  it  to  suggest  a  distant  origin,  or  a  mountain  to  suggest  a 
.  rookery  to  suggest  a  concealed  front.  There  was  also  a  waterfall 
irhich  <»lled  for  certain  salient  features.     All  this  was  greatly 
by  amonk  called  Soseki  (b.  1271 ;  d.  1346;  —  a  distinguished  poet 
thumously  as  MuaokoktUhi) ,  who  worked  many  of  the  moral 
the  Zen-ahu  into  the  fabric  of  his  landscape.  Ultimately,  in  the 
the  15th  cent.,  the  artist-priest  Soami  (ccHnp.  K^oto)  extended 
i  so  greatly  and  added  so  many  subtle  conceptions  that  he  is 
stt  of  as  the  father  of  landscape  gardening  in  Japan.   Setting  out 
ating  and  defining  twelve  principal  varieties  of  landscape  and 
,  he  proceded  to  indicate  the  constituents  of  each  and  their  deriva- 
s,  in  rockeries  he  placed  sea  and  river  stones ;  plain  and  mountain 
rent  stones  and  wave  stones;  stones  that  divide  a  stream,  stones 
it  flows,  and  stones  against  which  it  breaks;  stones  for  standing 
ached  stones;    erect  stones  and  prostrate  stones;   water-fowl- 
ing stones;  mandariuKluck  stones;   three  Buddha  stones,  and 
9.  Then  of  islands  there  was  the  wind-beaten  or  salt-strewn  isle, 
neither  moss  nor  rock  because  it  represented  a  spot  swept  by 
ind-flhowers;  there  was  a  central  island,  or  isle  of  elysium,  to 
ndge  led,  since  it  lay  in  mid-ocean;  there  was  the  wave-beaten 
tide-lapped  island,  the  guest  island,  and  the  host  island.    To 
was  due  the  conception  of  the  shore  of  the  "  spread  sand,"  and 
f  the  '*  piled  sand,    and  his  indications  as  to  cascades,  streams, 
ihrube  are  voluminous.'    In  laying  out  a  Japanese  garden,  the 
tiat  there  should  be  thorough  congruity  between  the    scenic 
1  the  nature  of  the  edifice  from  which   it  is  contemplated  is 
There  is  scarcely  any  limit  to  the  sums  expended  on  planning  out 
ire-grounds  and  on  their  up-keep.   Huge  rocks  are  transported 
iistanoes, —  rocks  honeycombed  by  the  beating  of  ocean  waves* 
ad  into  quaint  forms  by  the  furnaces  of  volcanoes ;  rocks  hollowed 
I  by  tiie  teeth  of  torrents;  petrifactions  from  the  depths  of  inland 
Bhqr  tinted  masses  from  mineral  districts,  —  all  these  are  sought 
imned.' 

b  baa  been  brought  to  such  perfection  that  the  tinieat 
^mtad  is  eapabJe  of  being  beautified  in  a  chajmm^ 


clxxxviii  DWARFING 

way  by  the  native  methods.  The  chief  elements  in  the  oon- 
position  of  classical  gardens  are  stones,  shrubbery^  lakekfai 
cascades,  windins  paths,  mazes,  stone  or  bronze  Icoitenis  nai 
cranes;  bridges  of  stone,  bamboo  or  saplings;  tea-houses^  wii- 
taria-arbors;  lotus-ponds,  etc.  When  a  simcient  (Quantity  o( 
water  is  inaccessible,  the  popular  and  much  admired  Aaorv* 
sansui  method  is  adopted.  This  shows  dry  beds  of  ponds  and 
rivulets  filled  with  sand  and  stones,  with  borders  ngidly  pn- 
served  just  as  if  they  held  water  in  check.  [A  good  example  of 
this  type  may  be  seen  in  the  groimds  of  the  Nijo  Com,  at 
Kyoto.]  The  narrow  winding  paths  are  paved  usually  with  a 
sin^e  row  of  stone  slabs  in  which  all  regularity  of  fonn  ■ 
avoided.  Potted  plants  of  the  popular  dwarfed  varieties  (^ten 
take  the  place  of  borders.  The  ponds  and  bridges,  small  rOK 
and  meandering  paths  with  their  uneven  edges;  the  shrubs 
trinmied  in  round  balls  of  various  sizes,  and  the  grotesqueljr 
shaped  pines,  with  long  tortuous  branches  running  near  tn 
groimd,  are  often  combined  in  such  a  skillful  manner  by  tha 
pardener  as  to  make  the  area  seem  much  larger  than  it  reaOl 
IS.  The  microscopic  gardens  sometimes  placed  artfully  in  smiD 
dishes  or  trays  are  called  huhMiiwa  ana  are  very  popular  with 
Japanese.  Bo  adroitly  are  they  arranged  that  the  behddtf 
often  finds  difiiculty  in  convincing  himself  that  he  is  not  viav- 
ing  a  perfect  and  larger  landscape  some  distance  away. 

Dwarfing,  or  nanization,  is  an  art  in  which  the  Nipponese  are  very  nqMi 
The  idea  seems  to  be  of  Chinese  origin,  but  the  Japanese  gardener  dif 
tinguishes  himself  in  his  efforts  to  check  nature  in  its  natural  develcNpiiMDti 
and  to  take  advantage  of  every  accident  or  trick  that  will  enable  nim  to 
produce  deformities  or  grotesqueries.  He  not  only  takes  pleasure  in  uti* 
fidal  deformation,  but  admires  and  collects  natural  malformations  of  ertiy 
kind.  A  stone  through  which  liie  water  has  worn  a  hole,  or  an  old  deeayiBI 
tree-trunk  with  one  or  more  plants  growing  out  of  a  knothole^  where  MM 
have  accidentally  lodged,  are  his  delight,  and  for  these  he  will  aometfMi 
pay  as  much  as  for  a  genume  work  of  art.  Old  vermiculated  planks  cur  woiiK 
riddled  tree-trunks  are  often  used  as  door-posts  or  signs:  aiid  hedn  fMMi 
of  wood  that  has  been  buried  in  the  water  until  insects  have  made  ohaBv 
deposits  on  them  are  fre<][uent  features  in  the  country.  ^ 

The  juniper,  cypress,  pme,  elm,  bamboo,  peach,  plum,  maple,  willow,  tai 
other  trees  are  often  experimented  with  for  nanization  purpoeea.  Hm 
juniper  and  thuja  particularly  are  frequently  selected  by  gardeners  to  tflT 
their  skill  in  forcing  them  to  grow  into  rude  representations  of  junka,  bMh 
and  animals.  Trees  are  sometimes  trained  in  the  shape  of  deer  with  ustDlP 
ordinary  fidelity,  the  eyes,  tongue,  or  other  parts  being  added  to  oomiMl 
the  resemblance.  The  principle  of  the  operation  depends  upon  rBtudfaC 
the  circulation 
roots,  and  I: 

afterwards „ .  .       .  , 

the  vigorous  shoots,  until  nature  gives  up  the  contest  and  yields  to  art.  Ti 
I^oduce  a  idow  growth  small  seeds  from  a  poorly  developed  individualpliil 
are  chosen.  Freauent  cutting-back,  and  planting  in  i>ots  of  iiisumiiiWl 
sise,  are  practicea  to  produce  nanism.  Twisting  the  twigs  and  stona  is  ft 
horisontal  spiral  direction  has  the  same  effect,  and  the  refrigeration  of  At 
ground  and  roots  by  evaporation,  using  ix>rous  pots.  Graftinf^  ia  oftaB^ 
means  to  this  end,  as  it  serves  to  check  natural  development.  It  is  ffispedaB| 
employed  in  the  manv  varieties  of  plum,  and  is  usually  effected  aoeoidhi 
to  the  oldest  methoos  known  to  gardening  —  grafting  by  Juzti^NMrillA 
The  cutting  which  ia  to  be  engrafted  ia  abaTpftTicd  on  one  aide  and  laid  IdM 


BUDDHIBlf 

iHU(«  tol  dfwoBallr  ia  tilt  wU  tn«.  or  a«*adnd  ta  tilt  vJU  ilOQk  b^ 
Mtcf9lWnK»«nl«beBeBx«fuIlyboaiid.  Boow  of  the  nnills  obtaiiwd  an 
^mrtmpAia^  ApevfBotiiwoiineii,  lOor  12ia.liJlch,ol»giuuiediiiarieor 
■nwnjniwiiii,  or  a  partkalaiiy  grotoaque  iiiiie  teee  will  aoinatiinwi  tm  for 
■lBthida.of  MM.  Tfc»  maUu  (a  K<Nreaa  wocd)'or  nine  (many  TarietiM)  is 
iflM  loceBd  mlo  afanomial  AmpoB  wliieh  not  only  eseite  aatoniahmant.  fanl 
mn  oaa  to  martwl  at  the  fanmmpff^honrfhiw  taate  wfaieh  finda  pleaaure  la 
aah  OBiiataial  fonna.  A  pine  trae  ao  trained  aa  to  have  the  neeka  of  ita 
aai^rfaig  roota  abow  the  sromid  ht  lefened  to  aa  nsaooarv-maitu.  The 
'■mdea  of  naaiaation  aa  applied  to  iiine  treea  oaa  be  aoea  m  the  emraario^ 
gfwwitiwn  portnyed  by  the  KanmJd  Pine  at  Lake  Biwa,  Rte.  87. 

Itany  tareJEitiaeB  exist  on  the  subject  of  landscape  gardeningL 
tad  thm  are  ocHnplete  sets  of  names  for  everything  assodated 
with  them.  The  dbann  of  some  oi  the  gardens  is  so  winning. 
and  in  scnne  of  them  nature's  masterpieces  are  reproduced 
and  her  prindpieB  implied  with  such  amasing  fid^ty,  that 
my  tnrTeler  diaiddrsee  one  or  more  of  the  most  fi^^ 
ons  before  leaving  Japan.  During  the  iconoclastic  era  wmoh 
iolowed  the  Restoration,  some  of  the  finest  gardens  in  the 
Baqiire  were  destn^yed  by  vandals.  Some  (tf  the  existing  ones 
pedowly  disflppeaxing  brfore  the  march  of  blighting  mater- 
Uhm*  xlie  scmetime  celebrated  Kdrakuren  at  T5ky5  is  a 
MM  in  point.  llMNigh  stall  regarded  by  the  T0ky5ites  with 
bnu  eyes,  it  retains  but  littfe  iji  its  ancient  charm.  More 
■itiiiying  niamplflH  are  the  Imperial  Gardens,  where  the  annual 
CSmanuMnMnn  and  Gh^ry-Bloesom  Garden  Parties  are 
Ud  in  T6ky6;  and  t^t  of  the  Mikado's  Palace;  the  Skuoakur 
ii;aodotiieiiiatKy5to.  The  requisites  emi^oyed  in  the  f ash- 
Sonhig  of  fofmalgaraens  can  be  seen  at  the  FofcoAoiFia  iVurssry. 

IX.  Buddhism. 

Boddhiam,  called  by  the  Japanese  Bvkkyd,  and  Buppd 

J  the  religion  of  Buddha'),  with  71,992  temples  (tera;  buUudd) ; 
i;l06  b(Hiiee  (b^teu)  or  priests  (or  monks) ;  14  chief  sects  (ahU) 
na  (about)  74  branches  claiming  upward  of  !^  million  aoher- 
■ite,  reached  Japan  (from  Korea)  about  a.d.  552,  when  the  King 
dKiidara  (one  of  the  Korean  States)  sent  Buddhist  statues 
ptfnyiff)  and  books  as  presents  to  the  Emperor  Kimmei.  The 
Itted  (aee^ited  in  Japan  about  571)  belongs  to  that  division 
flBiiadhiflm  known  m  India  as  the  Northern  School. 

-   laMka^  CBtOau;  Hciok«;  Shaka,  etc.).  whose  actual  mortal  life  la  re- 
0tdtd  (by  ma  adherente)  aa  the  4th  in  a  series  of  5  Meaaianic  incamationa, 

'  *  '  TiiKtiniifc  aagra  that  when  Sakyarmuni  was  bom  a  dragon  appeared 
■d  Boand  water  orer  the  babe.  The  incident  is  commemorated  in  Japan 

aAfidi  B^  wiwn  the  **  washing  of  Buddha  "  (kwan-butau,  or  yoku-bttUu) 
m  phi—.  An  Imace  of  the  god  —  a  birthday  Buddha  (tanjd^lnUtu)  —-  is 
^^"^  Jb  a  haU  deeorated  with  flowers,  and  each  worshiper  pours  water  or 
^  Ca.dMoaii(ia  ol  bsrdrangea  leaves)  over  the  effigy  from  a  tin^  ladle. 
*^  a  twniia  iila»  does  not  evoke  much  enthusiasm,  but  evidenoea 


lar.aNwiiaiina  may  be  seen  in  dec<»rations  of  asalea  spraya, 
■•>%k«ad  «  (JDmUma  9cabra)  blossoms  set  up  at  the  gatea  ot 

Mfc  tbl  idaaiol  avarliqr  enJ  dietmiet  the  prooedun  of  the  tinie. 

lit  mttU  mk»t  of  exarcum.   A  leaf  ol  dwplMEdVpxixBa 


the  dive: 


and  bniuE  ffood  luck  to  Ihe  famHy  and  the  State.  Aa  Sakjfa-fiuni  ffl^^l 
enough  to  Aeo  and  oorrcct  the  duuerB  of  bia  ^ttt«iu,  at  hifl  deal^^^J 

plas,  Jnonja  and  Kaxhiapa,  and  thus  band  dnwn  the  orffacU^^I 
tXBtaritv-'  Bardv't  ifanuui  d/  BuiiUHn.  ^^H 

The  faith  has  pr&cticAlly  duwpw orod  from  lodia,  'and  pcMomo^^^l 
adherenU  within  the  Empire  in  Burma  and  uloug  the  ml.  (mntiEr  tMll 
Under  Sin;  Aiota,  who  ruled  from  B.C.  S72  to  331,  it  become  tbs  pi 

"  '  -  '  "  '  '  IB  debtued  by  cuDIsol  witli  the  idolatt^  ta 
^ r~i  ^  oitijpatin^.  acd  il "" 

rTand'sVirchmdHi'thB'fiTsrMiani """"''"""''''''''' 

without  any  actual  BchiBm,  the  Buddhlota  at'C^lciD  and  Ultra  Oiiiiai«  >iaV> 
oometodiflcrfrom  those  of  Central  AraaandCSiDa.  Buddhiuo  aurvivnl  u 

McAonmiedan  invMloni  upeet  th"  Hindu  dynnstira  ^  N,  lodia.  FiiUHyi' 
(noiuiKi)  is  ded  inidde  the  lanlflm  ol  the  Hleepiac-ohamber.  and  onr  llw 
lintel  is  putad  on  amulet  writtea  with  ink  which  lioi  been  moiitened  «Iii 
the  hquid  oC  luBCmtion  (atnathai.  Again  the  ricc-RouT  nake  a  olTerad  M  >b* 
domeatifl  altar.  It  dov  taken  the  foroi  of  a  lotus-petal  with  oapiule  oI  b»a- 
poflte  (an).  Id  the  aitEeg  fauckstflra  CO  about  BcUioE  ducks'  e^^,  vlucAi, 
enten  on  this  day,  are  auppoaed  bo  be  effioacioue  agaiiut  pala^;  and  oie»- 

psn  from  street  to  street 'Dalnneaut.O-ihakckl  O-nhnJwJ  or  -  Buddhu  to  lell. 

ffflek  IB  trade  otihBse  ffTiNiTi>ii7i-ho  (iloiiniieil  priissUil  BOMKiJ'itgaa'naiy^ 
ot  Sskyo-muai  and  five-colored  ftaia  o\  \\>.t  »  6w«.  -.Iib  T(t>s*  '"'^ 


BUDDHISM  cxd 

md.  not  80  mueh  as  the  result  of  direct  penecution,  but  rather  firom 


«..    «M     UKiBnwywfM*    v^->""P'»'*«-      VVlCCkliCI       TOUIVIO^    UUVbTlUO      VU»|J»IWJBO 

irfaieh  aroae  about  500  yrs.  after  Buddha,  prevailed  in  N.  India  and 
fin  A.D.  65)  one  of  the  state  religions  of  China  (whence  it  paraed  to 
ioenoe  to  Japan) .  is  regarded  by  Japanese  students  as  both  egoistic 
idstic;  as  optimistic,  progressive,  and  active;  and  as  holding  state 
I  in  high  regard.  It  is  their  regret  that,  though  the  great  Bect49  men- 
ereinafter  ostensibly  preach  this  doctrine,  in  reality  they  preach  the 
ta  ('Lesser  Vehicle  )  doctrine,  which  represents  the  S.  school,  and 
re,  pessimistic,  and  individualistic.  Followers  of  the  Myhdydna 
that  they  have  to  pass  through  human  existence  only  once  more 
ttaming  to  Buddhahood,  or  complete  enlightenment,  and  entrance 
nna. 

years  after  the  special  envoys  sent  by  the  Korean  Kmg 
1  Japan^  there  followed  Toneiy  and  Doshin,  the  first 
.  They  began  at  once  to  preach  the  new  religion,  and 
1^  they  found  powerful  protectors  in  certain  of  the  in- 
u  nobility,  they  also  encountered  resolute  adversaries, 
ere  arose  a  strife  which  lasted  for  35  yrs.  By  571  the 
le  had  made  sufficient  impression  upon  the  minds  of  the 
liat  to  be  accepted  by  them,  but  it  remained  a  long 
ithout  state  recognition.  *Tj/Tien  properly  installed  the 
nd  its  accompaniments  amuLi^  i  the  simple  natives.  The 

of  its  BodhisattvaSf  smiline  in  gold^  —  the  figures  of 
7enly  guardians  and  infernal  judges,  its  feminine  angels 
^nstrous  demons,  —  must  have  startled  and  amazed  im- 
CDS  yet  unaccustomed  to  any  kind  of  art.  Great  paint- 
mg  in  the  temples,  and  frescoes  limned  upon  their  walls 
ings,  explained  better  than  words  the  doctrine  of  the 
kt^  of  Existence,  and  the  dogma  of  future  rewards  and 
ments.  Moreover,  for  people  accustomed  only  to  such 
architecture  as  that  of  the  Shinto  miyay  the  new  temples 
I  by  the  Buddhist  priests  must  have  been  astonishments, 
glossal  Chinese  gates,  guarded  by  giant  statues;  the 
id  lanterns  of  bronze  and  stone ;  the  enormous  suspended 
lounded  by  swinging-beams;  the  swarming  of  dragon- 
under  the  eaves  of  the  vast  roofs;  the  glimmering  splen- 
tiie  altars;  the  ceremonial  likewise,  with  its  chanting 
incense-burning  and  its  weird  Chinese  music,  —  cannot 
died  to  inspire  the  wondor-loving  with  delight  and  awe.' 
iiddlust  image-makers  soon  began  to  people  the  land 
le  host  of  statues  which  the  traveler  now  sees  in  almost 
out-of-tiie-way  place,  —  the  Buddhas,  images  of  the 
lent  Jizdy  Koshirif  the  protector  of  the  highways,  with 
ee  symbolic  apes;  the  figures  of  the  Bato-  KwannoUy 
X)tects  the  horses  of  the  peasants,  and  a  long  list  of 

*In  the  cities  everywhere  Buddhist  sculptors  opened 
to  supply  pious  households  with  images  of  the  chief 
Im  WQTsmped  by  the  various  Buddhist  sects;  and  tVie 
\  of  itoE,  or  Bwddhist  mortu&ry  tablets,  as  well  as  iVie 


ezcii  BUDDHISM 

makers  of  household  shrines,  multiplied  and  prospered.'  Bud 
dhism  made  a  strong  appeal  to  the  ignorant  vulgar  by  its 
gicians  and  exorcists;  by  its  living  saints  in  the  fledb,  who  i 
supposed  to  possess  strong  Court  influence  with  the  Hignitfliwi 
of  me  ghostly  world;  by  the  gorgeousness  of  its  temples  and 
the  solemn  pomp  of  its  ritual  observances.  It  was  a  splendidlf 
easy  device  for  obtaining  temporal  and  perhaps  everiastiqi 
prosperity,  for  dodging  the  devil  and  his  unps,  and  esd^Nqg 
the  pains  and  penmies  of  the  various  hells. 

A  peculiarity  of  Scikya-munVs  teaching  'is  the  maimer  in  which  hb  !■ 
weakened  and  almost  destroyed  the  power  of  the  unseen  world  aad  4 
spiritual  beings  as  agencies  of  restraint  upon  the  heart  of  man,  and  of  aidta^ 
ance  in  seeking  after  good.  By  his  system  of  good  works  and  self-dsnUb 
his  followers  are  brought  into  such  close  relationship  with  the  whole  orarthi 
of  invisible  beings,  into  whose  presence  and  fellowship  they  can  enter  1$ 
their  own  efforts  and  mediation,  that  the  moral  sanctions  of  a  SupnM 
Ruler  and  God  over  all  are  neutralised,  and  the  sense  of  sin  in  tlie  binilf 
conscience  done  away  witih.  Its  removal  is  put  under  the  control  of  the  sM 
and  thedenee  of  happiness  and  power  attamed  in  the  future  world  ^V** 
on  the  individual,  —  so  many  prayers,  iJms,  austerities,^  and  obedieiM 
result  in  so  much  honor,  power,  and  enjojrment  in  the  coming  infinite.  Hi 
past  infinite  is  also  made  part  of  the  conscious  present,  apd  moral  Ml 
worked  like  physical  attraction,  innumerable  causes  producing  retribothi 
results  for  rewards  or  for  punishments.  In  such  a  theology,  salvatkio^ 
faith  is  rendered  impossible,  and  sacrifice  for  sin  by  way  of  atoneDH 
useless.' 

Perhaps  the  greatest  value  of  Buddhism  to  the  nation 
educational.  The  Shinto  priests  were  neither  scholars 
teadiers,  and  the  new  creed  offered  education  to  all  — Dflt 
only  in  matters  religious,  but  in  the  arts  and  leamine  of  CbJMt 
Korea,  and  India.  The  Buddhist  temples  eventually  beoaiH 
common  schools,  or  had  schools  attached  to  them,  and  iMl 
each  parish  temple  tiie  children  of  the  community  were  tau|AI| 
at  a  merely  nommal  cost,  the  doctrines  of  the  faith,  the  wiflOOli 
of  l^e  Chinese  classics,  calligraphy,  drawing,  and  much  besidil 
By  de^^  the  education  of  almost  the  whole  nation  caul 
under  Buddhist  control.  The  priests  constituted  a  br^^ 
across  which  there  passed  almost  continuously  from  the 
atic  continent  to  Japan,  a  stream  of  knowledge.  '  To  enum< 
the  improvements  and  innovations  that  came  to  her  by 
route  would  be  to  tell  almost  the  whole  story  of  her  p: 
All  that  can  be  classed  under  the  name  of  art  in  Japan 
either  introduced  or  developed  by  Buddhism;  and  tne  BUM 
may  be  said  regarding  nearly  all  Japanese  literature  poasMl 
ing  real  quality,  —  excepting  some  Shinto  rituals,  and 
fragments  of  archaic  poetry.  It  was  a  civilizing  power  in 
highest  sense  of  the  word,  for  it  introduced  drama,  the 
forms  of  poetical  composition  and  fiction;  history^  phil 
architecture,  painting,  sculpture,  engraving,  prmting, 
scape  gardening  —  in  short,  every  art  and  industry  that  i 
to  make  life  beautiful.  All  the  refinements  of  Japanese 
were  of  Buddhist  introductioni  and  at  least  a  majority  of 


BUDDHISM  oxdii 

eEHknis  and  pleasures.  Perhaps  the  briefest  way  of  stating 
raage  of  sucn  indebtedness,  is  simply  to  say  that  Buddhism 
•u^^t  the  whole  of  Chinese  civilization  into  Japan,  and 
reafter  i>atiently  modified  and  reshaped  it  to  Japanese  re- 
rements.  The  elder  civilization  was  not  merely  superim- 
led  upon  the  social  structure,  but  fitted  carefully  into  it, 
abined  with  it  so  perfectly  that  the  marks  of  the  welding, 
i  lines  of  the  juncture,  almost  totally  disappeared.'  (L^- 
^  Heam,) 

rhe  original  Buddhist  doctrine  was  essentially  in  disaccord 
h  ShirUoismf  which  is  without  a  doctrine  of  metempsy- 
Msis,  and  which  has  its  nearest  analogue  in  Confucianism, 
le  spirits  of  the  dead,  according  to  ancient  Japanese  think- 
;,  continued  to  exist  in  the  world:  they  minted  somehow 
Ui  the  viewless  forces  of  nature,  and  acted  through  them, 
anything  happened  by  the  agency  of  these  spirits  —  evil 
good.  Those  who  hacl  been  wicked  in  life  remained  wicked 
er  death;  those  who  had  been  good  in  life  became  good  gods 
er  death;  but  all  were  to  be  propitiated.  No  idea  of  future 
rard  or  punishment  existed  before  the  coming  of  Buddhism: 
se  was  no  notion  of  any  heaven  or  hell.  The  happiness  of 
sets  and  gods  alike  was  supposed  to  depend  upon  the  wor- 
p  and  the  offerings  of  the  living.  Buddhism  had  learned 
uidia,  in  China,  in  Korea,  and  in  divers  adjacent  countries, 
w  to  meet  the  spiritual  needs  of  peoples  maintaining  a  pe^ 
^ent  ancestor-worship.  Intolerance  of  ancestoi^worship 
uld  have  long  ago  resulted  in  the  extinction  of  Buddhism; 
its  vasts  conquests  have  all  been  made  among  ancestor- 
rshiping  races.  In  Japan  it  adopted  the  same  policy  which 
1  secured  its  progress  on  the  continent;  it  attempted  to 
erfere  only  by  expanding  and  e^mounding  them  —  by  inter- 
ting  them  in  a  totally  new  light.  Modifications  were  ef- 
ted,  but  no  suppressions:  we  might  even  say  that  Bud- 
sm  accepted  the  whole  body  of  the  old  beliefs.  It  was  true, 
new  t^hing  declared,  that  the  dead  continued  to  exist 
isibly;  and  it  was  not  wrong  to  suppose  that  they  became 
inities,  since  all  of  them  were  destined,  sooner  or  later^  to 
er  upon  the  way  of  Buddhahood  —  the  divine  condition, 
ddhism  acknowledged  likewise  the  greater  gods  of  ShintOy 
h  all  their  attributes  and  dignities  —  declaring  them  incar- 
aons  of  Buddhas  and  Bodhisattvas:  thus  the  sun-goddess 
B  identified  with  Dai-Nichi-Nyorai  (the  Tatkdgata  Mahd- 
rokcma)]  Hachiman,  the  war-god,  was  identified  with 
lida  (Amitab?ia)f  etc.*  Thus  by  skillful  adaptations  Bud- 
sm  got  itself  accepted  as  a  second  national  faith.  The 
nUS  durines  presently  assumed  the  appearance  of  Buddhist 
m,  and  for  centuries  the  two  creeds  worked  in  harmony 
the  uplift  of  the  Japanese  race.  It  did  not  become,  aa 
agr  eamfm  writers  have  s^d,  the  popular  religion,  wbiie 


czciv  BUDDHISM 

Shinld  remained  the  official  religion;  it  became  as  mudi  ai 
official  religion  as  Shintd  itself,  and  influenced  the  lives  of  iD 
classes.  It  made  monks  of  emperors,  and  nmis  of  their  dan^ 
ters;  it  decided  the  conduct  of  rulers,  the  nature  of  decnm, 
and  the  administration  of  laws.  In  every  communis  the 
Buddhist  parish  priest  was  a  public  official  as  well  as  a  spiiitoil 
teacher.' 

Throughout  the  whole  course  of  its  history  in  Japan  Bod' 
dhism  has  been  discredited  by  its  priests.  But  it  has  aim 
niunbered  among  its  propagandists  many  men  of  transcend- 
ent ability,  lofty  aims,  and  unquestioned  courage.  The  powa 
it  acquired  over  its  devotees  was  often  misused ;  humility  be- 
came  arrogance,  learning  tyrannized  over  ignorance:  it  u  do 
exaggeration  to  say  (writes  Murdoch)  that  at  the  date  <d  tiM 
first  arrival  of  Europeans  in  Japan  the  greatest  poUtical  powa 
in  the  Empire  was  that  of  the  Buddhist  priesthood,  foremoil 
among  which  stood  that  Monto  sect  which  had  been  hairied 
and  hunted  from  the  neighborhood  of  the  capital  onljr  ten 
years  before.  Militant  Buddhism  became  a  great  power  m  thfl 
State  during  the  Muromachi  epoch,  and  even  the  priests  il 
Ky5to  succiunbed  to  the  general  demoralization  and  were  found 
among  the  gamesters  and  marauders.  One  sect  only,  the  IMt 
possessed  large  influence,  owing  to  the  virtue  and  eloqueiM 
of  its  great  preacher,  Renjo.  But  this  sect  believed  m  thfl 
sword  as  a  weapon  of  propagandism,  and  did  not  hesitate  to 
enlist  the  most  lawless  and  unsciupulous  elements  of  the  popit 
lation  among  its  adherents.  The  religious  fanatics  weM 
strong  enough  to  defy  the  governors  of  the  N.  provinces,  i^flK 
their  principal  center  of  power  lay.  They  destroyed  fandl] 
after  family  of  their  opponents,  and  even  the  illustrious  HO' 
sokawa  Harumoto^  one  of  the  most  powerful  nobles  of  thi 
time,  had  to  appeal  to  the  Nichiren  sect  for  aid  against  them 
Thus  the  religious  bodies  wielded  a  power  which  no  one 
though  he  were  the  skdgun  himself,  could  afford  to  disregard 
Even  the  Shintd  priests  of  Ise  had  a  military  organizatioi 
numbering  thousands  of  halberdiers. 


Buddhism  reached  its  apex  at  the  close  of  the  11th  <^nt..  when,  during 
mly  13  yrs.,  the  Em: 

painted,  ordered  the  _  ^ 

of  3150  life-size  images,  and  of  2930  smaller  idols,  and  constructed  21  Ian 


reign  of  only  13  yrs.,  the  Emperor  Shirakawa  caused  5470  religious  piotmt 
to  be  painted,  ordered  the  casting  of  127  statues  of  Buddha,  each  16  ft. "  * 


temples  and  446,630  religious  edifices  of  various  kinds.  This  same  so' 
in  obedience  to  the  Buddhist  commandment  against  taking  life,  issuedlK 
edict  prohibiting  the  slaughter  of  any  living  thing;  ordering  the  releaae  f 
all  hawks,  falcons,  and  other  caged  birds;  forbidding  the  presentation  ( 
fish  to  the  Palace,  and  requiring  the  destruction  of  all  fishing-nets, -*' 
mandate  which  was  carried  out  in  8800  cases. 

This  attempted  usurpation  of  the  political  power  led  to  th 
serious  curtailment  of  Buddhism  in  Japan.  The  persecutkl 
of  the  priests  by  Nohunagay  and  the  introduction  of  Jesuitia 
in  the  2d  half  of  the  16th  cent.,  inflicted  a  serious  blow  upon  tl 
d»u8e,  and  althou^  it  revived  under  the  Tokugawa,  its  earik 


BUDDHISM  eoBBV 

id  influence  never  returned.  The  year  1868  opened 

Sy  for  Buddhism,  for  in  that  year  decrees  were  issued 
e  sects  as  transcendent  in  their  effect  as  the  famous 
la  Befomuif  issued  by  Benito  Juarez  8  yrs.  before, 
Inst  the  Catholics  of  Mexico.  The  incomes  of  the 
/  temples  and  monasteries  were  reduced  to  doles  and 
at  gifts;  wherever  a  Shinto  temple  had  made  way  for 
hip  of  Buddha,  the  Shintd  kami  was  restored  to  his 
)lace,  and  even  from  the  higher  mts.,  the  statues  of 
were  (in  1873-74)  removed  from  the  temples  and  re- 
j  mirrors  and  gohei.  Some  of  the  bonzes  burned  their 
ather  than  have  them  pass  into  the  hands  of  the  Skin- 
liile  the  disestabhshment  crippled  the  Buddhists,  it 
Bstroy  them.  The  vast  majority  of  Buddha's  followers 
are  also  followers  of  Shintd,  and  the  two  faiths  (which 
r  enough  upon  the  people  as  a  mass),  though  seeminglv 
HUB,  have  long  been  reconciled  in  the  popular  mind, 
oroearance  is  shown  bv  all  the  sects,  as  tne  Japanese 
iarlv  tolerant  of  indiviaual  idiosyncrasies.  The  restor- 
Buddhism  to  its  ancient  prestige  is  believed  by  those 
well  acquainted  with  the  facts  to  be  impossible. 

n,  like  Catholicism,  owes  much  to  its  accessories,  —  to  its  maS" 
iffiificent  tempbs,  its  majestic  images,  its  gorgeous  paraphernalia. 


otments  of  its  priests,  and  the  picturesque  solemnity  of  its  ser- 

by  between  the    * 

of  the  Romish  Church  early  attracted  attention.    AbbS   Hue 


numerous  points  of  similarity  between  l£e  rites  of  the  Buddhists 


( many  of  them:  'The  cross,  the  miter,  the  dahnatica,  the  cope 
icUbate  priests  wear  on  their  journeys,  or  when  performing  some 
mt  of  the  temple;  the  service  with  double  choirs,  the  psamxody, 
ms,  the  censer  suspended  from  five  chains,  which  you  can  open 

pleasure;  the  benedictions  given  bv  extending  the  right  hand 
sads  of  the  fsdthful;  the  rosary,  ecclesiastical  celibacy,  spiritual 

worship  of  the  saints;  the  fasts,  processions,  litanies,  and  holy 
11  these  are  analogies  between  ourselves  and  the  Buddhists.  In 
•  these,  the  institution  of  nuns,  worship  of  relics,  masses  for  the 
burning  of  candles  and  incense,  with  rin^ng  of  bells  during 
•e  prominent  usages  common  to  both.  Their  priests  alike  teach 
/  from  which  the  soul  can  be  released  by  their  prayers;  they  also 
rvices  in  a  dead  language,  and  pretend  to  miracles.   Lastly,  the 

the  perpetual  virginity  of  Maya,  the  mother  of  Sakya-muni,  is 
taught  by  the  Mongol  Buddhists,  who  also  practice  a  form  of 
tjam,  in  which  the  priest  dips  the  child  three  limes  under  the 
I  pronounces  its  name  and  gives  it  a  blessing.'  It  would  be  very 
L  counterparts  in  a  Buddhist  temple  for  almost  ever^  one  of  the 
\arUa8  worshiped  in  a  Spanish  cathedral;  in  fact  there  is  a  striking 
»etween  some  of  them. 

ism  has  no  literature  intelligible  to  laymen:  its  origi- 
rit  scriptures,  transliterated  in  Chinese  and  Japanese 
s,  are  couched  in  language  with  whose  deep^er  mean- 
b  of  the  people  and  many  of  the  priests  are  aUke  un- 
jd.  By  sermons  and  oral  teachings  are  its  precepts 
cable  to  the  public.  Certain  of  the  Buddhist  canons 
a)  are  extracted  from  the  liturgy,  and  while  repeating 
)  prieBt  strikes  upon  a  wooden  sounding-board  (called 
■Aaped  Bometblng  like  a  huge  sleigh-bell,  in  order 


oxcvi  BUDDHISM 

to  mark  time  to  his  monotonous  chant.  Praying  is  Nembvtau* 
Invocations  with  the  Indian  words  Namu  Aniida  BtUtu 
CHaU  to  the  Eternal  Splendor  of  Buddha  0  are  repeated 
thousands  of  times  to  attam  perfection,  and  afford  an  ilfusto^ 
tion  of  the  propriety  of  Christ's  direction:  'When  ye  pray,  use 
not  vain  repetitions  as  the  heathen  do;  for  they  tJunk  th^ 
shall  be  heard  for  their  much  speaking.'  The  Nichiren  sect 
employs  the  Chinese  transliteration,  NamtMniO'h(Mrenrge4cy6 
—  *Hail  to  the  salvation-bringing  revelations  of  the  law.' 
The  Buddhist  Paradise,  to  which  the  spirits  of  all  good  men 
go  after  death,  lies  in  a  region  one  trillion  miles  from  the  earth 
and  is  called  Juman-okvdo.  Lacking  a  knowledge  of  the  dog- 
mas of  their  religion,  the  priests  cling  to  externals,  and  attempt 
to  captivate  the  minds  of  the  credulous  by  the  pomp  of  the 
numerous  ceremonies  and  unmeaning  festivals  which  they 
celebrate. 

The  Service   (ddv}a)  is  impressive  but  is  usually  Tnorlrafi 
by  considerable  mummery.    When  the  priest  seate  himigJt 
among  his  congregation  to  preach,  he  wears  a  white  or  sobep- 
hued  cassock  and  a  black  stole.  '  But  when  he  opens  the  sutras 
or  recites  the  litany,  his  vestments  are  of  brocade  that  woul^- 
serve  worthily  to  drape  a  throne,  and  might  well  betray  thi 
female  units  of  his  congregation  into  the  sin  of  ''  lust  of 
eye,"  were  not  the  precaution  adopted  of  cutting  the  splendi( 
fabric  into  a  multitude  of  fragments  before  fashioning  it  int 
stole  or  cassock.   The  services  appeal  only  to  a  narrow 
of  emotions  and  leave  the  intellect  untouched,  as  the  texts^ 
the  lotus  law,  engrossed  in  exquisite  ideographs  upon  iUuinin. 
ated  scrolls,  are  unintelligible  to  the  average  native  mSnd^^ 
The  sermon  is  usually  practical  and  is  a  plainly  phrased  adap — "^ 
tation  of  saving  ethics  to  everyday  affairs,  diffenng  materialr^^ 
from  the  solemn  service,  which  is  accompanied  by  considerabf^ 
spectacular  display  as  far  removed  from  mundane  affairs  as  ii 
the  lotus  throne  itself.    The  immense  hall  is  often  withoui 
decoration,  except  in  the  chancel  where  stand  the  shrine 
altar,  a  mass  of  gold  and  rich  colors.   Within  a  circular  indoe^*^ 
ure  at  the  outer  end  of  the  nave  sit  a  band  of  acolytes,  cl 
to  an  accompaniment  of  wooden  timbrels.    Their  voices 
pitched  in  octaves,  and  the  number  of  chanters  is  varied 
time  to  time  so  as  to  break  the  monotony  of  the  ct 
When  this  has  continued  for  some  moments,  nine  priesti^   -^ 
richly  robed,  emerge  slowly  and  solemnly  from  the  back  of  ih0^S 
chancel,  and  kneel  before  an  equal  number  of  lecterns  rangec::^ 
in  line  on  the  left  of  the  altar.  Each  priest  carries  a  chapte  "^ 
of  beads,  and  each  lectern  is  a  missal.  Then  the  chant  of  " 


acolytes  ceases,  and  the  priest  in  the  middle  of  the  line  open^ 
the  sutra  and  reads  aloud.  One  by  one  his  companions  fouov^ 
his  example,  until  the  nine  voices  blend  in  a  monotone,  whidk 
In  turn,  is  varied  by  the  same  device  as  that  previously  adopteo 


I 


•BUDIfflraii  ODBvii 

by  tbe  aoolytes.'  Alter  an  interval,  snotherdmilar  band  paeea 
gravely  down  the  efaanodi  and  kneelin|;  on  tlie  rijB^t  of  tte 
altar,  oi>poflite  the  fizst  oi»nera,  add  their  voioes,  in  the  aame 
cumulative  fashion^  to  the  varying  vdume  of  sound.  Finally, 
the  chief  pnest  himself  emerges,  attended  by  an  aiO(Ayte,  and 
kneels,  facing  the  ahar,  at  a  la^  lectern  placed  between  the 
two  rows  of  sutraHceaders.  He  confines  himsdf  at  first  to  bum^ 
ing  incense,  and,  as  the  fumes  aseend  denser  and  denser,  the 
intonation  oi  the  reading  priests  grows  mcHre  and  more  accderar- 
ated.  until  at  last  tiieir  words  pour  forth  with  bewildering 
volilDility.  Then  suddenly  this  peal  of  resonance  dies  away  to 
a  scarcdy  audible  murmur,  and  while  its  echoes  are  still 
trembling  in  the  air,  they  are  jmned  by  the  voice  of  the  chief 
priest,  which  bj  degrees  absoros  them  into  its  swelling  note, 
and  thai  itself  udnts  to  a  whisper,  taken  up  in  turn  and  sweUea 
to  a  rolling  diant  b^r  the  toiMS  of  the  sutra-readers.  Tliese 
altematioDs  ol  intoning  constitute  virtually  the  whole  cere- 
mony. It  is  grave,  awe*4nsiMring,  and  massive  in  its  simplicity. 
It  captivates  the  seises  by  degrees,  and  lifts  them  at  last  to  an 
ecstasy  whero  reason  ceases  to  discern  that  the  compcments 
of  the  grand  ceremony  are  nothing  more  than  deftly  inter- 
woven fragments  €i  a  dianted  litany,  gorgeous  vestments,  a 
heart  of  giymag  |5old  and  soft  colors  in  a  vast  sepulcher  of 
shadow,  and  an  edifice  of  noble  proportions^  But  Ihat  aoalytical 
oonsciousnesB  certainly  comes  to  the  average  layman  soonw  or 
later.  That  he  has  r»Eu:hed  it  is  plainly  shown  by  his  mien. 
The  sketchy  act  of  worship  that  he  uses  as  a  passport  to  such 
ceremonials  bears  as  little  proportion  to  their  magnificence  as 
does  the  fee  paid  at  the  door  of  a  theater  to  the  tumultuous 
moods  of  mirth  or  sadness  produced  by  the  spectacle  within. 
Nothing  in  which  the  mechanical  element  predominates  can 
be  permanently  interesting.  But  after  all,  religion  does  not 
overshadow  the  daily  life  of  the  Japanese.  The  ^oomy  fanatic 
is  unknown.  Confessions  of  sin,  repentance  in  sackcloth  and 
ashes,  solemn  and  protracted  acts  of  worship,  the  terrors  of  an 
eternity  of  tortmre,  —  these  things  scarcely  enter  at  all  into 
the  layman's  existence.  Japanese  religion  is  all  essentially 
practical  and  easy-going.  Japanese  Buddhism  can  never  pro- 
duce a  Puritan  or  a  Covenanter.  It  weaves  no  thread  of  sol- 
emnity or  sanctimoniousness  into  the  pattern  of  everyday  life. 
Its  world  of  hungry  demons  and  infernal  beings  are  too  unsub- 
stantial, too  remote  to  throw  any  lurid  glare  over  the  present. 
IBrinMey,) 

The  Tenets  of  Buddhism  (which  have  been  referred  to  as 

a  mixture  of  pantheism,  rationalism,  and  idolatry)  require  a 

lenuneiation  of  the  world  and  the  observance  of  austerities 

tooveroome  evilpassions  and  to  fit  its  disciples  for  future  bliss, 

h  few  exceptions  a  vow  of  celibacy  is  taken  by  tlie  pt\»B\A, 

^  flwell  togetbor  for  mutual  asBlstanoe  in  attak^f^  p«xiQ<^ 


Gocoviii  BUDDHISM 

tion  by  worship  of  Buddha  and  calling  upon  his  name.  The^ 
shave  the  entire  head  as  a  token  of  purity;  profess  to  eat  n^ 
animal  food;  wear  no  skin  or  woolen  garments;  and  set  th^ 
living  by  begging,  by  the  alms  of  worshipers,  and  by  uie  culti 
vation  of  the  groimcis  of  the  temples.  Much  of  their  support  L 
derived  from  the  sale  of  incense-sticks^  candles,  charms,  texts 
picture  post-cards,  portraits  of  divinities,  etc.  The  5  negative 

Erecepts  (gokai)  of  Buddhism  are,  not  to  kill,  be  guilty  of  dia 
onesty,  be  lewd,  speak  untruth,  or  drink  intoxicants.  Th^ 
10  virtues  are,  to  be  kind  to  all  sentient  beings,  be  liberal,  bi 
chaste,  speak  the  truth,  employ  gentle  and  peace-maKini 
language,  use  refined  words,  express  everything  in  a  plain 
unexaggerated  manner,  devote  the  mind  to  moral  thou^ts 
practice  charity  and  patience,  and  cultivate  pure  intentionc 
The  Buddhist  must  not  slay  anything,  both  for  pity's  sak 
and  that  he  may  not  hinder  even  the  smallest  creature  in  it 
upward  path;  for  in  the  domestic  animal  that  he  strikes,  or  i 
the  smallest  worm  that  he  kills,  there  may  live  the  soul  c 
one  of  his  ancestors.  Some  of  the  commonalty  make  &pecc 
liar  use  of  this  ruling  by  catching  young  birds,  shutting  thai 
up  in  small  cages,  and  offering  them  for  sale,  at  the  entrances  i 
popular  temples,  to  the  83rmpathetic  visitors,  who  buy  thei 
and  restore  them  to  freedom.  Turtles,  live  fish,  etc.,  are  rac 
somed  in  the  same  way.  —  The  five  species  of  *  stinking  vegi 
tables'  denied  the  priesthood  are  porret,  shallots,  chives 
garlic,  and  onions.  An  inscription  at  the  entrance  of  man 
Buddhist  temples  and  cloisters,  usually  carved  on  an  obelia 
of  stones,  reads:  ^  It  is  forbidden  to  carry  stinking  herbs  aik 
intoxicating  drinks  through  this  holy  gate.' 

The  Religious  Festival,  or  Matsuri,  such  as  can  be  witnessed  in  Oct.  at  tl 
Ikegami  Temple  (Rte.  9)  on  the  anniversary  of  Nichiren,  may  be  said  to  I 
one  of  the  most  popular  forms  of  worship  in  Japan.  It  is  a  species  of  eodei 
astical  outing  for  the  gay  multitudes  (about  200,000)  that  throng  thitb 
during  the  two  dasrs  of  the  f^te.  'If  the  tiny  band  of  devout  folks  that  UsU 
to  the  sermon  be  compared  with  the  joyous  crowds  that  roam  among  tl 
beautiful  woods,  enjoy  the  enchanting  landscapes  presenting  themaelvet  < 
every  side,  and  frequent  the  varioiis  entertainments  provided  few  the 
diversion  by  itinerant  showmen,  the  ratio  of  holiness  to  hoUday  becomi 
very  suggestive.  It  may  be  difficult  for  the  reader  to  imagine  the  preoine 
of  a  Christian  cathedral  on  a  saint's  day,  occupied  by^  acrobats,  iuggkv 
traveling  menageries,  performing  dogs,  and  such  frivoUties,  whiTe  tl 
business  of  prayer  and  preaching  proceeds  vigorously  within  the  walls  of  tl 
building.  Yet  such  a  conception  of  the  Japanese  scene  is  only  partial:  it  mm 
be  supplemented  by  another  strange  feature,  namely,  that  the  temple  buik 
ing  stands  open  throughout  the  whole  of  one  side,  so  that  the  peofde  wh 
happen  to  be  praying  within  are  virtually  a  part  of  the  audience  enjosrio 
the  penny-shows  without.  Here,  as  everywhere  else  in  Japan,  the  praetki 
sincerity  of  the  national  character  shows  itself.  Even  at  a  religious  feattra 
no  e£Fort  to  dissimulate  the  trait  of  which  humanity  can  never  divest  itself; 
encoxiraged  or  expected.  The  great  majority  of  the  people  come  for  til 
sake  of  the  outing  as  much  as  to  pay  respect  to  the  memorv  of  the  nla 
Let  them,  then,  enjoy  themselves.  Religion  does  not  prescribe  austerity  < 
manners  or  asceticism  of  life.  The  Buddhas  are  not  shocked  becafiM 
monkey  turns  somersaults  under  the  eaves  of  their  sanctuaries,  or  a  np 
eUuioer.baloDoea  in  the  shadow  of  theix  shrines.'  iBrinkley.) 


BDIDBHISI!  SECTS  exdx 

X.  Buddhist  Sects.  Divinities.  Ten^e  AccomiMiii- 

ments.  The  Lotus. 

Buddhist  Sects.  The  following  are  the  most  powerful  and 
^Widespread  in  Japan:  — 

.    The  Zbn  (or  £ii88ftiyi)H5»t^,  founded  b^  Dharma  (Daruma) 
^xi  India,  in  aj).  513,  and  brought  by  him  to  China,  was  in- 
'tooduoed  thence  into  Japan  by  the  bonse  Doaho,  in  the  7th 
Ocnt.  Rejected  at  first,  it  was  revived  in  1192  by  the  bonze 
'Biiei,  who  is  regarded  as  its  founder  in  Nippon.   It  is  some- 
tiimes  called  the  'sect  of  contemplation,'  and  its  doctrines,  as 
txiterpreted  by  the  many  sch<(^ly  men  who  adopted  thkn, 
Have  made  perhaps  the  greatest  impression  of  any  of  the  sects 
On  the  natic^ud  tfought  and  life.  Its  teachinai  are  based  upon 
tihe  TOrindide  that  every  one  may  arrive  at  the  knowledge  of 
taoB  law  and  nature  oS  Buddha  W  meditation,  without  being 
iiofluenoed  by  dissoating  belies.  Ferchance  because  its  adop- 
tion by  the  Japanese  was  coeval  with  the  establishment  of 
XKuMtai^  feudalism,  its  dogmas  found  special  f av(Nr  among  the 
faniurai  of  Old' Japan,  since  their  taidency  was  to  render  one 
^idifferent  to  danger  or  death.  The  most  powerful  of  its 
oianehes,  the  SddShihH,  was  founded  by  Ddsen  in  1227.  Dctt' 
"Uma  is  specially  rev«rea  in  the  Zen  Temples,  where  he  is  por- 
trayed as  an  unshaven  (and  somevdiat  ruflSanly)  ascetic,  dad 
Ui  a  red  robe  and  lost  in  deep  meditation.  According  to  tradi- 
tion he  sat  for  9  years  in  uninterrupted  contemplation  and 
^^emained  so  motionless  that  his  legs  rotted  off.  His  image  is  a 
favorite  for  toys  (see  Rte.  9),  and  as  a  tobacconist's  sign. 
thshd  is  said  to  have  been  the  first  to  introduce  cremation  in 
Japan. 

The  JSdo-ShinshG  (Jddo/pwte  land/  the  heaven  of  Amida; 
^in,  'spirit*;  shU,  'sect*)i  or  MorUo  ('gate-followers'),  or  Ikkd 
'^m    ('undivided')  sect,  founded  by  Shinra'nrShdnin  in  1224,  has 
^J\    been  called  the  Protestantism  of  Japanese   Buddhism.    It 
dejects  celibacy,  penance,  abstention  from  certain  foods,  pil- 
grimages, asceticism,  monasteries,  and  amulets.   Its  followers 
itigard  belief  in  Buddha,  earnest  prayer,  noble  thought  and 
action  as  the  prime  essentials  of  religion.  The  temple  altars 
are  splendidly  furnished^  Amida  being  worshiped  exclusively. 
The  ^esthood  is  hereditary,  and  the  w(»rship  is  ornate  and 
^f    Sttgmfioent.    The  temples  are  known  as  the  NUhi-  and  ffi- 
i^l    ffiM^Himgwanji  {nisht^  west;  Kigashiy  east;  harij  chief;  gwxmj 
.^1    p9^2  jit  tem]^  of  Buddha)  or  Moni^ki  (a  title  given  to  a 
Buddhist  fane  or  monast^  of  which  an  Imperial  Prince  is, 
or  has  been,  the  head).   Tliey  are  among  the  largest,  most 
faHmtiful;  richhr  furnished,  and  numerous  (about  20,000)  in 

SEnipire.     Many  know  tiie  sect  (which  has  10  brancYkea 
(IS  ttdDion  icXhwen)  aa  the  SAtHrshU,  Its  pnestB  maxx^ « 


^ 

i 


00  BUDDHIST  SECTS 

eat  meat,  and  dcT  many  things  denied  to  the  bonxes  of  othtf 
sects.  In  1876  the  Mikado  conferred  a  great  distinction  on  thi^ 
sect  by  calling  its  founder  by  the  honorary  title  of  Kenakii^ 
Daishi  ('Revealer  of  the  Truth*). 


This  worthy,  whose  name  the  visitor  to  temples  will  hear  many 
while  in  Japan,  was  bom  at  Kyoto  in  1174  (d.  1268),  and  at  the  ace  of  9 
eame  a  disciple  of  Jichin,  who  taught  him  the  doctrines  of  the  Tendai 
In  1203  he  studied  under  Oenku,  and  for  a  time  was  an  entJiusiastic 
of  the  ShingonahU,  but  its  vows  of  celibacy  and  abstinence  irked  him.  Tte' 
Goddess  Ktffannon  appeared  to  him  one  day  (so  the  legend  nina)  and  » 
relieved  him  on  this  score  that  soon  thereafter  he  married  the  daughter  0 
FHJitoara  Kanenori,  and  coincident  with  the  foundine^  of  a  familyne 
mulgated  the  new  J6do  doctrine.  His  militant  disposition  soon  embr 
him  with  the  stronger  bonzes  of  opposing  sects,  and  he  was  banislMd 
Eohigo,  where  he  remained  5  yrs.  The  magnificent  Hiocuhi'  Hongwamii 
Kydto  is  now  the  headquarters  of  the  sect. 


The  Shingon-shu  CTrue  Word  sectO  is  of  considerable 
torical  interest  in  that  it  was  founded  (in  the  9th  cent.)  b; 
the  celebrated  Kd&d-Daia/ii  (p.  cxxvi),  one  of  the  greatest  r   ' 
gious  teachers  (a  sort  of  Japanese  Moses)  of  early  Japan, 
one  period  in  the  country's  history,  this  extraordinarily  viril 
sect  had  thousands  of  temples,  millions  of  adherents,  and  oi 
of  the  most  unique  centers  {Koya-san,  p.  511)  imaginabli 
whence  it  radiated  its  powerful  influence.   The  outlines  erf  i 
mystic  creed  (taizokai;  kongokai)  suggest  Christianity.   Tl 
is  a  great  presiding  spirit;  a  complicated  ethical  system  f] 
which  the  followers  of  Christ  might  derive  inspiration;  a  b 
of  interceding  saints  in  heaven;  an  eternity  of  happiness; 
everlasting  law  of  retribution  (every  infraction  of  the  mi 
code  entailing  a  commensurate  penalty) ;  and  several  incai 
tions  of  the  Supreme  Being  w^hose  special  mission  is  to  ] 
men  to  knowledge.    In  addition  there  is  a  belief  in 
existence,  and,  because  of  the  sins  committed  therein,  th. 
devotee  is  kept  entangled  in  the  cycle  of  life  and  death.   kxM" 
cestor-worship  and  prayer  to  the  Shinto  deities  are  included* 
The  Shingonshu  is  said  to  possess  12,000  temples,  upward  of 
7000  chief  bonzes,  and  4  million  adherents.  It  is  often  reSerrod 
to  by  students  of  Buddhism  as  the  Secret  Sect,  as  its  doctrines 
are  said  to  be  based  upon  the  secret  teachings  of  Shaka,  which 
were  not  made  known  universally.  The  most  popular  branches 
are  the  Kogi,  and  Shingi, 

The  Tendai-8hD  C  heavenly  command'),  introduced  from 
China  in  806  by  the  bonze  Saicho  (or  SaitOy  a  Prince  of  Omi), 
derives  its  name  from  the  holy  mt.  and  monastery  in  China 
where  he  pursued  his  studies,  and  has  for  its  aim  to  enoouragp 
fdl  men  to  attain  perfection  by  the  observance  of  three  fue- 
cepts:  shun  evil,  ao  good  works,  and  be  kind  to  all  exLrang 
bemgs.  The  doctrine  was  first  preached  in  Japan  at  the  famouB 
Hieifzan  Monastery  (see  Kydto),  which  became  its  head- 
quarters. Its  teachings  are  said  to  have  had  a  beneficent  effect 
upon  the  degenerate  priesthood;  to  have  stimidated  them  to 


I 


BUDDHIST  DLViNrriEB  M 

bnprovemoity  and  to  the  siady  <si  the  rdigums  eiatorioB. 
ient  there  are  3  branches,  with  4600  temptes,  SSSOO  diief 
f  and  a  million  followers.  Only  the  Tenatd  and  the 
n  sects  use  the  prayer-wheel  {rimbd^  or  wheel  of  the  law) 
plays  so  great  a  r61e  in  Tibet.  One  of  the  greatest  bomes 
TendcnrskU  was  the  well-known  EnmUj  called  postfauf- 
r  JikahurDaisM  ('Great  Teacher*),  who  was  bom  in 
,  864),  and  after  studying  for  9  ^.  in  China,  returned 
ito  and  published  the  result  of  his  researches  in  550  yol- 

H0KKE-BH1&  r' Flower,  or  Lotus  oS  the  Law')»  or 
en  sect,  foimdea  in  1253  by  the  militant  bonze  Nidiiren 
2;  d.  1282),  one  of  the  most  celebrated  and  picturesque 
bers  in  the  history  of  Buddhism  in  Japan,  promulgpfttes 
octrine  the  last  instructions  of  Buddha  before  his  death, 
teachings,  regarded  as  so  profound  that  only  Buddha 
e  highest  hofHtsu  can  comprehend  them,  are  suppKXied 
he  essence  of  all  the  discourses  of  Shdka;  they  are  re- 
to  as  the  three  great  secrets:  adoration  (honzon),  law 
ku),  and  moral  QxL'idan),  The  essential  difference  be- 
the  creed  of  *Nichiren  ('Lotus  of  the  Sun')  and  those 
9d  by  his  predecessors  is  that  the  former  conceives  a  god 
prime  and  only  great  cause.  The  preachers  showed  to 
isciples  a  chain  of  cause  and  effect  (without,  however, 
anything  about  its  origin),  and  demonstrated  that  the 
k  in  the  chain  was  the  Buddha  of  original  enlightenment 
rhom  all  subsequent  Buddhas  were  only  transient  re- 
is.  *Nickiren  thus  reached  the  Christian  conception  of 
n  whom  everything  lives,  moves,  and  has  its  being;  an 
>tent,  omnipresent,  and  omiscient  deity.  All  phe- 
i.  mental  and  material  in  all  time  and  space,  were 
a  by  him  to  have  only  subjective  existence  in  the 
•usness  of  the  individual.'  The  mission  of  the  sect  of 
3n  was  to  point  out  the  way  to  Buddahood,  and, 
bU,  to  convince  the  people  that  one  and  all  of  them 
become  Buddhas,  here  and  now.  Ere  long  Nichiren'a 
rs  became  known  as  the  most  bigoted,  intolerant, 
eJ,  and  turbulent  Buddhists  in  Japan.  They  might 
Uy  be  called  the  Jesuits  of  Japanese  Buddmsm,  for 
ere  just  about  as  contumacious,  and  whosoever  disa- 
?nth  them  was  likely  to  find  them  militant  and  un- 
table.  The  other  sects  opposed  them  strongly,  and 
en  was  soon  embroiled  with  the  political  powers.  In 
i  published  a  work  (Ankokyrron)^  in  which  he  discussed 
ans  to  assure  the  peace  of  the  State,  violently  attacked 
ler  sects,  and  predicted  the  Mongol  Invasion  (p.  652). 
L  the  temerity  to  address  his  work  to  the  Skikken  H^d 
riy  who,  being  a  fervent  advocate  of  the  Zen  sect,  ^Yio^eidL 
plfdMxm  of  the  compUment  by  ealing  him  loliu. 


ecu  BUDDHIST  DIVINITIES 

After  3  yrs.  he  was  pardoned,  and  we  soon  find  him  at 
kura  renewing  his  attacks  on  the  rival  sects.    He  was   _ 
imprisoned,  tms  time  with  his  disciple  NichirOy  and  condeimiecz:^ 
to  be  beheaded  at  Tatsiir^no-kuchi ;  but  Tokimune  commi 
his  sentence  to  exile,  and  Nichiren  was  sent,  in  1271,  to 
island  of  Sado.   He  lived  there  but  2  yrs.,  and  on  his  returito. 
built  the  temple  of  Kuon-jiy  at  MinobUj  which  became  the 
of  the  sect.   Several  yrs.  later  he  founded  the  important 
now  very  popular  Temple  oflkegami,  where  he  died.  Jffis 
was  cremated  and  the  ashes  were  sent  to  Minobu,  minus  on^^ 
of  his  teeth,  which  is  enshrined  in  the  Kotsvrdd  at  Ikegam^^ 
Nichiren's  followers  believe  he  was  an  incarnation  of  hosalrm^ 
Jogyo  (one  of  Shaka^s  close  disciples).  He  is  not  unfrequentiT^y 
referred  to  as  the  Martin  Lather  of  Japanese  Buddhiffln.  iL.'C 
birth  he  received  the  name  Zennichir^maru. 

The  sect  is  now  split  into  9  branches,  with  5150  temdb^i 
3600  chief  bonzes,  and  upward  of  !§  million  adherents.  Tt&« 
secret  scriptures  read  specially  by  the  priests  are  known  CU9 
HokkekyOy  the  pronunciation  of  which,  oddly  enough,  sounclB 
curiously  like  the  call  of  the  sweet-singing'  Japanese  ni^^tivi- 
gale  (wherefore  it  is  called  the  scripture-readmg  bird).   Over 
and  over  this  neutral-tinted  sprite  repeats,  like  a  litany,  the 
word  ho-kek'-yo;  the  first  syllable  long-orawn,  the  othesiv 
uttered  in  a  short  and  quick  way. 

Buddist  Divinities.    Of  the  scores  of  graven  images  (many      ..^^ 
of  them  beautifully  sculptured  and  gilded)  enshrined  m  the    \'^zd, 
various  Buddhist  temples,  the  most  prominent  are  mentioiied 
below.   Many  are  portrayed  with  a  feminine  cast  of  counteD- 
ance,  and  with  an  expression  of  peace  and  gentleness.   The 
leader  of  the  legion  of  deities  is 

Amid  A,  or  Amidabutsu  (Sanskrit:  Amitdbha)^  the  SuprenM 
Buddha  of  the  Paradise  of  the  Pure  Earth  of  the  West.  He  is 
known  also  as  Amiritay  and  as  MicUiy  *  the  immeasurably  re- 
splendent.' It  is  the  deity  of  consolation,  help,  and  deliverance, 
and  beside  being  represented  by  thousands  of  idols  of  many     IL^ 
sizes  throughout  Japan,  is  portrayed  colossally  in  bronse  bf     f  ** 
the  DaibiUsu  of  Kamakura,  of  Nara,  and  of  Kyoto.  The  meet 
familiar  attitude  of  the  image  shows  it  seated  with  the  haadl 
across  the  lap,  the  thiunbs  touching,  and  with '  meditative  gaie 
slanting  down  between  half-closed  eyelids.'   This  position  is 
referred  to  as  one  of  '  contemplation.*    When  both  hands  aie 
held  against  the  breast  and  the  fingers  pressed  together,  it  is 
that  of  'teaching.'    When  the  left  hand  lies  open  in  the  lap 
and  the  right  is  pointed  downward,  Buddha  is '  renouncing  1w 
world.'  When  seated  or  standing  on  a  temple  altar,  the^;iin 
is  oftentimes  backed  by  a  beautifully  carved  and  gilded  msih 
dorla  (goko  —  also  the  term  for  halo) .  and  when  this  fonns  A 
complete  background  and  is  shaped  like  the  Vesica  ni9ci$, 
it  18  called  fuTUhgokOf  from  its  resemblance  to  a  boat  (/ims). 


BUDDBOBr  DIVINITIES 

IB  Qtyakugd)  on  the  forehead  is  the  otgan  whioh 
tt  uiat  illuminates  the  world. 

is  often  cbnfomided  with  the  original  Buddha,  who  tan^  that 
y  of  this  ttfe  is  the  conaequenoe  of  fonner  aiB|  and  that  the  goal  of 
nits  tnnamigrations  is  nirvana.  The  b^ef  is  held  that  after  the 
aiumphed  over  matter,  and  is  freed  from  all  paanons,  it  enters  this 
iod  q>aoe  and  loses  consciousness  of  its  existenoe  (the  Saadatt 
of  tiw  word  beins  '  blowing  out,'  or  *  extinction ').  Althod^  the 
iuddhists  like  to  oelieve  that  this  extinction  means  p^eot  pe^Mse 
everlasting,  rather  than  annihilation,  the  great  mass  prefer^  in 
oe  with  a  later  doctrine  which  onanated  from  Kashmir,  to  dwell 

thoui^t  of  the  somewhat  material  Paradise  of  the  West,  whither 
lads  his  faithful  followers  to  eternal  happiness  with  him  in  the 
Unvely  gardens,  flowers,  etc. 

^HA.  or  Shaka,  is  worshiped  in  mamr  forms;  his  imsAe 
dttcult  to  distinguish  uom  that  of  Amieia,  and  of  the 
tlier  Buddhas;  his  glory-Kiisk  is  usually  round,  and  his 
ind  is  customarily  shown  in  the  position '  of  v^ierable 
tte,  who  sit  cross-legged  upon  their  lotus-leaves,  and 
ith  three  uplifted  fingers  all  the  world.'  He  is  neariy 
shown  accompanied  by  his  faithful  Ptigen  (who  sits  at 
t  hand),  a  Buddhist  god,  the  patron  of  those  who  prao- 
ke<xanmai  (ecstatic  contemplation);  and  (at  his  idft) 
^  the  God  of  Wisdom  (whence  the  Japanese  sayizig; 
ycirdM  Mor^u  no  chiye:  *  three  persons  consulting  tor- 
je  often  as  wise  as  Monju  himself  ')•  The  two  are  often 
1  in  Japanese  art;  the  latter  ridins  the  sacked  elephant 
^  the  former  on  a  tiger.  — •  The  oeath  of  Buddha  imd 
y  into  nirvana  (nehan)  are  subjects  often  used  by  Jap- 
culptors  and  painters,  who  portray  him  amidst  me 
f  weeping  persons  and  animals  he  loved  and  who  loved 
he  generic  name  for  the  Shinto  incarnation  of  Buddha 
m.  The  Bo-tree  {bodaiju),  or  Ficus  religiosa  (Sanskrit, 
intelligence,  wisdom  ')i  under  which  Buddha  sat  and 
I  the  perfect  knowledge  of  all  things,  is  often  cultivated 
)le  yards,  the  wood  being  made  into  rosaries  used  by 
sts. 

rsm-NTORAi,  one  of  the  five  Buddhist  gods  (Go-Ckin 
I  of  'vnsdom  (  Yakuahi^  Tahdy  Dainichif  AshukUy  and 
is  commonly  known  as  the  Grod  of  Medicine;  his  image 
mistaken  for  that  of  Shaka, 

L-^  or  Emma-8ama  (the  Brahminic  god  Yama)y  or 
Hell,  is  the  person  before  whom  the  soul  of  tlie  de- 
appears,  to  be  judged  and  sent  back  into  the  world, 
MJCprding  as  it  has  deserved  well  or  ill,  it  reappears  in 
1  of  a  more  perfect  man  or  higher  being,  or  m  that  of 
al.  'If  the  man  has  behaved  badly,  he  is  set  still  further 
cd  in  his  way  to  nirvana,  and  must  first  pass  throiigh 
most  wretched  states  of  ^ell  and  of  the  hunapry  spirited 
ttnmMars  on  earth  in  an  animal  shape.  lung  i  oma 
mkf^  ^  ^^  xziode  oi  this  transltbni  but  abo  bb 


cciv  BUDDHIST  DIVINITIES 

to  its  duration.  He  who  has  toiled  as  a  slave,  teaches  BudcDuh 
may  reappear  as  a  prince;  he  who  has  rulea  as  a  king  maji 
perhaps  on  his  reappearance,  wander  in  rags.  Every  one  makes 
nis  own  prison;  his  actions  prepare  him  for  joy  or  pain.'  ITie 
impressive  image  of  Emma-o  —  sometimes  terrifying  in  to 
ferocious  snggestiveness  —  appears  either  alone  or  crowned 
as  a  king  in  the  series  of  Jtio,  or  ten  imps,  that  reign  in  heD 
with  him,  painted  vermilion,  with  gaping  mouth,  distortecl 
eyes,  a  great  mustache,  and  a  mace  in  his  right  hand.  Few  of 
the  idols  of  the  Buddhist  pantheon  are  carved  in  a  more 
skillful  manner  by  Japanese  scupltors. 

Jizo,  the  Sanskrit  Kshitegarhhay  is  veiy  popular  with  the 
Japanese,  and  there  are  few  roads  in  the  Empire  upon  which 
his  statues  may  not  be  seen.  The  idols  often  appear  in  groups 
of  six  (Rokudd-no-Jizo)  and  are  known  as  the  six  succored. 
Their  primary  f imction  is  to  assist  generally  the  six  classes  o^ 
reasonable  beings,  distinguished  by  the  Buddhist  metempsy* 
chosis,  namely   gods,  men,  asura  (in  Hindu  mythology  one 
of  a  class  of  demons  in  perpetual  hostility  to  the  gods),  ammA 
hungering  demons,  and  those  condemned  to  hell;  out  tb^ 
render  otner  special  services  besides.  Their  names  are  respect- 
ively,  EmmyOy    HoshOf    HoshUy  Jichij    HoiUj  and   Kerat^ 
Jizo  proper  (who  has  been  called  the  most  Japanese  of  all  JaP* 
anese  divinities)  is  especially  the  patron  of  travelers,  of  chir    f 
dren,  and  of  pregnant  women.    He  is  represented  by  tne  image 
of  a  bonze  with  shaved  head,  backed  by  a  nimbus,  holding  * 
gem  in  the  left  hand,  in  the  right  a  staff  {shakujo)  at  the  top 
of  which  metal  rings  arc  attached,  and  with  an  lUuminatii^ 
boss  in  the  center  of  the  forehead.  It  is  as  the  tender  guardian 
of  dead  children  that  he  is  specially  revered.  All  children  must, 
according  to  the  Buddhists,  go  to  the  Sap-no-Kawara,  the  Bud- 
dhist Styx,  or  the   *Dry  River  bed  of  Souls,'  when  they  die. 
Here  the  hag  named  Sho-zuka-^o-Baba,  along  with  the  demons 
(Oni) ,  torment  them  and  make  them  pile  up  small  heaps  of  stones 
which  they  tear  down  as  fast  as  the  children  build  them.   He 
frightened  little  souls  run  to  the  compassionate  Jiz5f  who  hides 
them  in  his  great  sleeves,  and  comforts  them,  and  makes  the 
demons  go  away.   *  And  every  stone  one  lajrs  upon  the  knees  or 
at  the  feet  of  Jizo,  with  a  prayer  from  the  heart,  helps  flwne 
child-soul  in  the  Sai-no-Kawara  to  perform  its  long  penance. 
And  those  stones  you  see  heaped  about  the  statues  are  pui 
there  by  people  for  the  sake  of  the  Uttle  ones,  most  often  Iv 
mothers  of  aead  children  who  pray  to  JizoJ   Many  of  tli 
statues  one  sees  near  temples  are  adorned  with  a  faded  bib» 
or  cap,  or  some  little  garment  —  either  those  of  dead  childien 
or  of  living  ones  believed  to  have  been  cured  of  illness  by  th0 
benevolent  intervention  of  the  deity.   A  common  practice  ii 
to  place  a  thousand  tiny  carved  images  of  Jizo  under  one  roofy 
jTBDged  on  shelves  one  rank  above  the  other,  and  worship  than 


BUDDHIST  DIVINITIES  oov 

rely.  Another,  is  for  a  bereaved  mother  to  buy  a  ddl 
I  as  possible  like  the  lost  child,  and  offer  it  to  Jizo. 
moN  (pron.  cannon),  the  AvaldkiUsvara  of  India,  one 
nost  popular  of  the  divinities,  is  supposed  to  be  the 
J  of  Mercy;  she  hears  prayers,  whetner  they  are  ad- 
to  her  orally  or  in  writing,  and  can  deliver  men  from 
[£mgers  of  life.  Her  chief  duty  is  to  listen  to  the  plead- 
he  unhappy  and  to  soothe  their  troubles.  If  her  image 
1  too  far  from  the  suppliant,  he  may' write  his  request 
» of  paper,  chew  it  into  a  ball,  and  throw  it  at  her;  if  it 
!;  is  a  favorable  sign,  and  he  departs  with  his  mind  re- 
Numerous  inscriptions  of#  gratitude  for  deliverance 
)uble  and  disease  are  often  seen  attached  to  the  rails 
her  altar,  or  to  steps  leading  to  it.   According  to  the 

legend  KwannoUy  or  Kwameon  Dai  Boaatau,  or 
Hf  was  bom  in  the  province  of  Setchuen  (in  China) 
\  the  daughter  of  the  governor  of  the  town  of  Souilin; 
e  was  Myo^n,  One  day,  when  18  yrs.  old,  she  repaired 
iLJCLkvrjif  a  temple  where  there  were  500  bonzes,  and 
ained  by  them.  Her  father,  in  his  anger,  burned  the 
[in  which  his  daughter  was  supposed  to  have  perished) 
all  the  bonzes  to  death.  The  next  nieht  she  appeared 
knd  informed  him  that  she  had  escaped  from  the  flames 
become  a  goddess.  Thereupon  she  received  the  name 
msenjurkivameon-bosatsuy  or  ^goddess  with  a  thousand 
d  a  tnousand  arms,  embracing  the  earth.'  In  Japan 
^toannon  has  lost  her  Chinese  characteristics,  and  has 
an  idealization  of  that  which  is  sweet  and  beautiful 
m)  she  is  represented  in  different  forms:  with  11  faces, 
men;  with  a  horse's  head,  Bato  Kwannon;  etc.  The 
or  Thousand-handed  Kwannoriy  has  in  reality  but  40 
^hich  hold  out  certain  Buddhist  emblems  —  the  lotus- 
:iie  wheel  of  the  law,  the  sun  and  moon,  a  skull,  a  pa- 
nd  an  axe,  the  latter  typifying  severance  from  all 
cares.  One  of  the  favorite  personifications  is  that  of 
',  or  Wise  Kwannon,  Another  is  the  Nyo-i-Hn  (al- 
or  onmipotent),  illustrating  a  jewel  able  to  fulfill  the 
►f  whosoever  possesses  it.  The  28  followers  of  Kwannon 
kachi  Bushu)  —  favorite  subjects  of  sculptors  and 
.  —  personify  the  28  constellations  known  to  Far- 
astronomers.  The  two  figures  often  seen  at  either  side 
nnon  are  Fvddy  and  Aizen  Myo-o  (the  Buddhist  God 
,  portrayed  with  3  eyes  and  6  arms) .  Kwannon  is  usu- 
}ea  on  an  upturned  lotus-flower  and  backed  by  a  glory- 
»meof  her  images  have  the  beautiful  faces  of  Madonnas, 

incomparable  Murillo,  painting  in  his  best  manner, 
reduced  more  attractive  ones  than  do  some  of  the  Jap- 
sulDt(H»  and  artists.   Some  of  the  finest  are  carved 
m  attitude^  with  the  right  leg  thrown  acroaa  the  \el\i. 


C5cvi  BUDDHIST  DIVINITIES 

liie  cheek  pillowed  upon  the  right  hdnd,  and  slumb^iiig, -^ 
'the  placid  and  pathetic  symbol  of  the  perpetual  rest.' 

In  Kyoto  and  the  neighboring  provinces  are  the  Sanrjiir¥M 
ahOf  or  Thirty-three  Temples  Sacred  to  Kwannon;  populfi 
resorts  with  credulous  pilgrims,  who  believe  that  whosoerc 
makes  the  complete  round  of  them  will  be  preserved  from  he! 
Legend  ascribes  the  locating  of  them  to  Tokvdo  Skonin, 
celebrated  Buddhist  abbot  of  the  8th  cent.  Authorities  diff« 
as  to  their  exact  chronological  order,  but  they  are  suppose 
to  be  as  follows:  — 

1.  N:^oirin-ji,  at  Nsohi  (Kii  Prov-    18.  Rokkaku-dO,  at  Ky5to. 

inoe).                                   »  19.  Gy6kwan-ji,  at  KyGto. 

2.  Kong5h5-ii,  at  Kimiidera  (mi).  20.  Yoshimine-dera,  at  KyOto. 

3.  Kokawa-dera,  at  Kokawa  (Kii).  21.  Bodai-ji,  at  An5  (Tamba). 

4.  Sefuku-ji,  at  Maki-no-o  (Isumi).  22.  Sdeen-ji,  in  Settsu. 

5.  Fiui-dera,atNakano(Kawaohi).  23.  Kachio-dera,  at  Toyokawa 

6.  Minami-Hokke-ji,  at  Tsubosaka  (Settsu). 

(Yamato).  24.  Nakayama-dera,  at  Kobe 

7.  RyOkai-ji, at Okadera  (Yamato).  (Settsu). 

8.  Hase-dera,  at  Haae  (Yamato).  25.  Shin-Kyomizu,    at    Kamofftp^ 

9.  Nan-en-dd,  at  Nara  (Yamato).  (Hanma). 

10.  Mimurodo-dera,  at  Uji  (Yama-    26.  Hokke-ji  (Haiima). 

shiro).  27.  Nyoirin-d5,  at  ShoBha-na 

11.  Kami   no   Daigo-dera,    at   Uji  (Harima). 

(Yamashiro).  28.  Seis5-ji,on-Nariai-j^ana(Tang;c 

12.  Sh5hd-ji,  at  Iwama  (Omi).  29.  Matsu-no-o-dera  (WakasiO. 

13.  Ishiyama'-dera,     at     Ishiyama    30.  Chikubu-ji.  on_Cnikubu-flhSK0 

([Omi).  Lake  Biwa  (Omi). 

14.  MiL-dera,  at  Otsu  (Omi).  31.  Ch5mei-ji,  on  Oku-^ima 

15.  Shin-Kumano-dera,  at  Ky5to.  32.  Kwannon-ji,  at  Ashi-ura 

16.  Kyomisu-dera,  at  Kydto.  33.  Kegon-ji,  at  Tanigumi  (? 

17.  Rokuhara-Mitsu-ji,  at  Kyoto. 

FuDo.  a  Buddhist  divinity  supposed  by  some  to  be  AkshafO 
the  God  of  Wisdom,  and  by  others  the  God  of  Fire,  is  credited 
with  the  power  to  foil  the  snares  of  the  devils.  He  is  por- 
trayed usually  with  a  scowhng  expression  —  the  very  embo^ 
ment  of  his  Satanic  Majesty  —  seated  upon  a  lotus  surrounded 
by  bickering  fire;  with  this  he  fights  the  devils,  whom  he  smitei 
with  the  sword  {goma  no  ken)  in  his  right  hand  and  binds  with 
the  coil  of  rope  (baHcu  no  nawa)  in  his  left.  The  former  is  alio 
taken  to  represent  Intellect,  and  the  entire  figure  as  BuddlMh 
the  Immutable  and  Unmoved.  The  rope  is  also  said  to  be  tbU 
with  which  Buddha  bound  the  passions  and  desires.  Fuiii  il 
often  represented  accompanied  by  his  two  chief  adherent 
SeitakorUdji  and  Kongara-Doji.  Conspicuous  among  thi 
temples  in  Japan  dedicated  to  Fvdo  is  that  at  Narita. 

Dainichi-Nyorai  ( Vairdt8ckana)f  one  of  the  Buddhisi 
trinity  personifying  wisdom  and  purity  (called  also  Roi^iaM 
buiUUf  and  Birushana),  is  supposed  by  many  to  be  identtM 
with  Fvdo.  His  image  is  much  like  that  of  the  latter,  exeep 
that  his  hands  are  usually  pressed  against  his  breast,  one  abovi 
the  other,  so  that  the  right  hand  clasps  the  index  finger  o 
the  left.  This  is  the  allegorical  representation  of  ^  '  ~" 
(Jon,  and  of  the  carrying  out  of  the  law. 


BUDDHI8T  DiVlNrriUB  dofii 

The  NiA^  or  two  Deva  l^ngs  (Indra  aad  Bhona),  ofUik 
nfeiied  to  as  iV^M9d-«oma,  and  as  the  'venerable  khi0iy'  the 
friia^  martial  figures  9-12  ft.  hidi  which  stand  ioustonMuily 
ml^ggiaB  or  cages  at  the  riaht  and  left  of  the  outer  gisAe  (ATt^ 
"Ml,  or  two-kinps  gate)  of  Buddhist  temj^es,  are  supposed  to 
Sttni  them  against  demons.  They  are  among  tiie  most  con- 
'^  1  idols  in  Japan  and  often  are  magnificent  examples  of 
art.    They  are  portrajred  as  semi-nude,  aggressiye, 

figures,  one  usually  painted  vermiUon  fronihead  to 

»pot,  the  raier  green.  One  nolds  a  club  in  one  hand,  and  some- 
^mes  a  maoe  (tokko),  —  originally  a  weapon,  but  later  hdd  by 
Buddhist  priests  when  prajing.  One  figure  is  shown  usually 
^th  the  mouth  open,  as  in  the  act  of  uttering  ah!  the  other 
vith  it  closed  or  half-closed,  as  if  ejaculating  vm,  or  unt  Cred« 
dous  folks  pelt  them  with  si»t-ball  prayers  in  the  belief  that 
r  tb^  adhere  to  the  figure  the  petition  will  be  answered  (if 
hey  do  not  stick,  the  petition  is  against  the  will  of  Buddha). 
^O0B  ol  Fo,  or  foxes,  often  occupy  corresponding  niches  on  the 
tiner  side  of  the  gateways  suiuded  by  the  kings.  If  aevemX 
;ates  succeed  one  anothi^  the  2d  is  usually  called  Niienrfnon, 
he  Niten  (  K9moku  and  Jikoku)  who  guard  it  (two  of  the  gods 
l.the  4  directions)  beinx  much  like  the  Nid  but  smaller^  and 
ometiliieB  dad  in  gUdea  armor.  — On  the  other  side  of  this 
Me,  in  their  respective  cages,  are:  — 

The  Thunder  God  (Baijin  or  Kaminarirsaana),  painted 
ed,  and  standing  at  the  right;  and  (at  the  left)  Fmjin^  or 
Kate^no-Kami^  we  God  of  WmA^  painted  green  or  Uue. 
the  thunderer  holds  in  each  hand  gilt  drumsticks,  like  dumb- 
tefls.  and  on  his  back  a  gr^t  hoop,  attached  to  which  are  9 
iat  arums  {taUco)  at  equal  distances  apart.  Above  both  shoul- 
ins  lie  ^t  serpentine  lightning-rays,  which  strike  upon  the 
Imms.  The  wind-god  has  across  his  shoulders  a  sack. full  of 
lind,  which  he  grasps  with  the  right  arm  bv  the  longer  and 
ower  emdy  while  his  left  hand  holds  the  cord  that  ties  the  other 
ad  sh(M*ter  end.  When  he  loosens  his  hold  on  one  of  the  closed 
ads,  the  breezes  blow;  when  he  parti v  opens  it,  a  gale  arises; 
ntei  he  removes  his  hand,  the  tornado  devastates  the  earth. 
U  times  t^  imp  (represented  as  a  monstrous,  feline  creature), 
itthe  fancy  seizes  him,  sallies  forth  from  his  lair  in  the  mts., 
lad  chases  terrified  travelers;  often  scratching  their  faces 
lieadfuUy  with  his  claws! 

The  Shi-Tenn5  (Skirdairiennd),  or  Gods  of  the  Four  Direc- 

awho  jKOtect  the  earth  from  the  attacks  of  demons,  usually 
the  inner  (or  third)  gate  to  temples  —  called  the  Yaahor 
Rii»^9an8krit:  FaA»Aa),  or  Gate  of  the  Valorous  Devils.  They 
Morten  magnificent  t3rpes  of  strength;  bucklers  of  virtue  ana 
'''***'flKaiis  (3  evil.  In  splendid  armor,  brandishing  sword  or 
^.  attitudes  of  cf^  and  august  power,  they  ttttaip\& 
^:!|dl  the  malignant  gnomea  .that  vex  tue  p^yLe, 


ocviii  BUDDHIST  DIVINITIES 

Painting  and  lacquer  usually  give  richness  and  color  to  these 
fine  figures,  which  sometimes  are  taken  inside  the  tem[^e  to 
guard  the  sutar  or  some  particularly  cherished  shrine.  On  the 
inner  side  of  the  gate  mentioned  are  often  found  a  blue  archff 
with  a  bow  and  arrow,  and  a  white  axe-bearer.  Tanum,  one 
of  the  4  gods  (who  is  also  one  of  the  Gods  of  Grood  Ludt), 
watches  over  the  N.;  Jikoku,  over  the  E.;  Zocho^  over  the  S.; 
and  Komokuj  over  the  W.  —  Some  of  the  loggias  are  not  un- 
frequently  occupied  by  quaint  seated  figures  clad  in  antique 
costume  and  holding  bows  and  arrows;  they  are  supposed  to 
be  guardians  {zuijin)  and  are  referred  to  as  Souknjin  and 
Udaijin  (Ministers  of  the  Left  and  Right). 

The]  Seven  Gods  of  Good  Luck  (Shichi  Fukujin),  so  con- 
spicuous in  the  various  phases  of  Japanese  art,  can  endow  one 
with  fame,  love,  talents,  riches,  sustenance,  contentment,  and 
longevity.  Two  of  them,  the  whimsical  Daikoku  (son  of 
Susano-d),  the  God  of  Wealth;  and  EbisUf  the  God  of  Susten- 
ance, and  protector  of  the  fisherman,  are  to  be  found  in  almoet 
every  house.  The  former  occupies  an  honored  place  on  ccr» 
tain  of  the  paper  money  (p.  xx),  and  he  is  usually  represented 
sitting  or  standing  on  bags  of  rice,  which  rats  come  to  gnaw  at 
under  his  indulgent  eyes.  Ehim  (who  was  the  3d  son  of  leanr 
agi  and  Izanami)  is  represented  with  a  fishing-line  and  a  fat 
tai  in  his  hand  or  under  his  arm.  He  is  sometimes  called 
Hvrvkoy  and  is  known  as  the  guardian  God  of  Trade  and  In- 
dustry. FukurokujUf  another  of  the  seven  gods,  has  a  comi- 
cally elongated  baJd  head,  and  is  shown  with  a  crane  at  hie 
side  (from  which  circumstance  he  is  thought  to  be  the  God  of 
Longevity).  BerUeriy  the  only  goddess  (of  Indian  origin)  in 
the  group,  carries  a  Mway  or  harp,  in  her  hand,  and  is  often  rep- 
resented as  mounted  on  a  dragon  or  a  serpent.  Many  temptes 
in  the  Empire  are  dedicated  to  her.  Jurojin^  a  little  old  man 
witib  a  stag  and  a  crane,  is  also  regarded  as  the  God  of  Long 
life.  Hotei  (or  Hoteiosho)  a  Chinese  bonze  of  the  10th  cent., 
personifies  joviality  and  kindness,  and  is  usually  shown  with 
a  monstrous  exposed  abdomen  and  swollen  earlaps  (often 
portrayed  also  with  a  large  bag  on  his  shoulder,  surrounded  by 
16  playful  boys).  He  is  the  jolly  friend  of  children.  —  Bukor 
monten  (also  one  of  the  3  Gods  of  War)  is  represented  holding 
a  spear  in  one  hand  and  a  small  pagoda  in  the  other.  He  likfr> 
wise  figures  as  Tamon  in  one  of  the  ShiHiai-4ennd. 

BiNZURU,  one  of  the  most  whimsical  yet  most  popular  (with  • 
the  imlettered  class)  of  the  temple  idols,  is  said  to  have  been 
one  of  the  Sixteen  Rakan  (see  below),  but  was  excluded  from 
among  them  for  having  remarked  on  the  beauty  of  a  woman. 
Ther^tcr  his  image  was  always  shown  outside  the  sanctum, 
but  as  Buddha  coi3erred  upon  him  the  power  to  cure  all  hu- 
man ills,  he  is  more  sou^t  after  than  many  of  the  more  virtu- 
ous  saintsl  He  is  pictured  as  a  little  old  man  wearing  a  baker's 


lEMBXa^MXaOMFANXMPBXm^  «Bbc 


t^tmd  fllttiaff  USk»  ftuhkm  oaa  GhinflMiofaair. .  J^  hepd  » 
wnite,  his  eyebiowB  huig,  and  his  deyotoei  BqnetiniM  adom 
faim  with  a  oaHon  hoocV  a  \»b,  and  mittens  —  thuS;  m^ajking 
him  bear,  a  stziung.zeaqmblaoce.to  a  querulous  dd  granny. 
The  credulous  rdb  that  part  oi  his  anatcmiy  where  the  poii^  or 
infirmity  in  their  own  is  located, .  with  the  result  that  his  image 
(tf ten  has  parts  of  it  worn  away  or  polished  like  a  mirror: 

KiSHi'-BojiN^  a  Buddhist  flu^ddess,  was,  aoccvdizig  to  the 
legend,  an  Indian  woman  whq  niEid  sworn  to  devour  all  the  chil- 
dren of  the  city  gI  B/!^agriha:  as  a  punishment  she  was  reborn 
in  the  form  of  a  demon,  and  gave  birth  to  500  chUdreh,  one  ij»f 
whom  she  had  to  eat  each  dfiy. .  Buddha  cured  h^  pf  the  mama 
by  Tnaking  her  eatpomeg^ranates,  wherefore  she  is  reinresented 
as  a  lovely  woman  with  a  chfld  iOt  her  arms  and  a  poonegranata 
in  her  hakid.  She  is  now  wmhiped  as  the  patroness  of  chfl^ 
droi,  and  strickrai  mothers  who  have  lost  their  little  ones  place 
th^  pathetic  little  clones  at  her  feet.  A  pomegranate  crest 
is  used  aa  a  sjrmbol  on  the  lanterns  and  the  decorative  curtain 
(maku)  which  hangs  before  ner  shrine. 

The  Six;isaBN  (jihroku)  Rakan  (roAofo),  or  disciples  of  Bud- 
dha»  along  with  the  Five  Hundred  Rakazi»  toe  holy  men  whom 
tbe  Japanese  ddight  to  portray  in  sbulptured  wood.  Though 
BUtyposed  to  be  jpeQected  saints,  thmr  countenances  are  not 
wa^  saintly.  They  are  represented  usually  as  emaciated'  dd 
iQea  m  various  uninteresthxp  attitudes. 

Oth^  favimte  themes  with  painters  are  the  many  boaatsu 
(Sanskrit  BodhtsaUva)  or  Buddnist  saints  who  have  to  pass 
put  one  time  more  through  a  human  incarnation  before  attain- 
ing to  Buddhahood  (hotoke).  Numerous  other  idols  and  fet- 
mea  are  mentioned  in  thek  proper  places  in  the  Guidebook. 
Temple  Accompaniments.  The  Pribstb'  Apabtmsnts  (hqjd; 
Awgrd  also  meaning  'head  priest')  are  always  near  the  main 
t^ple,  and  they  not  unfrequently  contain  art-treasures  which 
tbe  traveler  should  see.  Many  priests  devote  great  care  to  the 
^cultivation  of  landscape  gardens. 

The  Revolving  LiBaART  (rimd)  is  a  feature  of  some  tem- 
ples.  The  octagonal  inner  structure  is  supposed  to  contain 
ft  complete  set  (6771  volumes)  of  the  Buddhist  scriptures 
iMey6),  and  is  so  poised  on  a  pivot  that  it  can  usually  be 
girled  by  a  strong  h£uid.   The  figures  that  sit  near  it  are 
'VrDaishi,  a  deified  Chinese  priest  of  the  6th  cent.,  and  his 
jwns  Fiiken  and  Fujd.   To  FvrDaishi  (often  called  Warair- 
^^^i  or  the  'laugbing  Buddha')  is  ascribed  the  popular 
Nief  that  whoever  will  revolve  the  lectern  three  times  on  its 
pivot  will  obtain  the  merit  accruing  to  hun  who  reads  the  entire 
!K^ture9  throu^. 
'i^  iKACroBA-DBN,  an  open  dancing-stage  adjacent  to  the 
j^Mes  from  a  time  when  certain  duices  were  su^^pof^ 
ifrtoegodk 


ccx  TEMPLE  ACCOMPANIMENTS 

The  Ex-YOTO  Hall  (ema-do)  is  usually  cluttered  iritk 
offerings  of  little  merit. 

The  Founder's  Hall  (soshi-^o)  is  a  feature  of  certain 
temples;  that  attached  to  the  Nicmren  temple  a,t  Ikegam^ 
tjrpical. 

The  Bell-tower  (skdrd;  kanetsuH-do)  containing  tte 
largest  bell  (tsurigane)  in  the  Empire  is  at  Osaka. 

The  Bronze  and  Stone  Lanterns  (ishiddrd)^  which  stand 
within  the  inclosures  of  many  temples  and  mausolea,  usoalty 
represent  the  offerings  of  daimyos  to  their  rulers.  They  af6 
curiously  sug^stive  of  the  Lanterns  of  the  Dead,  placed  i& 
cemetenes  inCentral  and  Western  France,  as  each  haveaI)e^ 
tures  at  the  top  where  a  light  can  be  displayed.  The  votive 
pebbles  placed  on  or  near  the  lantern  represent  prayen  of 
the  credulous. 

The  Font  or  Layer  {chdzvrbacM),  containing  water  wWA 
worshipers  at  a  temple  pour  over  theil*  hands  before  entering 
the  sacrosanct  precinct,  are  sometimes  beautiful  and  massTk 
The  barrel-shaped  ones  are  for  catching  rain-water,  and  foiffl 
part  of  the  fire-eauipment.  Despite  the  fact  that  the  custoiB- 
ary  fee  for  a  small  oipper-f uU  of  water  is  but  i  «en,  the  privi- 
lege of  selling  the  water  at  a  popular  metropolitan  tonpk 
usually  enriches  the  person  fortunate  enough  to  secure  it. 

The  Bronze  Gong  {suzu)j  which  the  prayerful  strike  (by 
means  of  a  hanging  rope)  to  (perhaps)  maKe  their  presence 
known  to  the  gods,  hangs  at  the  entrance  to  temples,  usually 
near  a  contribution-box  as  big  as  a  state  exchequer. 

The  Offertory-chests  (saisen-bako)  are  more  conspicuouB 
than  soliciting  beadles.  The  saiserij  which  form  the  small 
offerings  of  the  natives,  are  usually  of  a  value  of  i  sen  «ieh. 
While  foreigners  are  rarely  asked  to  contribute,  those  of  the 
natives  who  forget  to  do  so  often  have  their  memories  jo^^ 
by  some  watchful  official.  Some  wrap  the  coins  in  soft  wwjt 
paper  and  cast  them  on  the  temple  floor.  The  receipts  of  a  but 
temple  are  said  sometimes  to  amount  to  ¥150  a  day.  A  small 
fee  is  sometimes  expected  from  travelers  who  desire  to  make 
a  close  inspection  of  the  temple  rehcs  or  fitments.  The  fact 
that  this  is  not  solicited  is  sufficient  to  suggest  to  the  generoua- 
minded  that  a  small  offering  handed  to  the  bonze  or  slipped 
into  one  of  the  alms-boxes  is  in  line  with  duty  and  gpodr 
fellowship.  In  few  countries  are  the  bonzes  or  priests  moie 
couorteous  and  less  greedy  than  in  Japan. 

Of  particular  interest  to  ecclesiologists  is  the  stone  Stupaoc 
tope  (aotoba)  found  in  temple  grounds,  since  it  is  one  of  tlM 
oldest  and  most  characteristic  styles  of  Indian  ecclesiastioil 
architecture,  the  earliest  specimens  of  which  are  supposed  to 
date  from  about  250  b.c.  and  which  prevail  wherever  Buddhiani 
lias  been  established.  The  Japanese  sotoba  represents  W 


TEMPLE  RELIQUARIES  ccxi 

simplest  form  of  the  original  structuresy  usually  a«cted  in 
honor  of  some  sacred  event  or  place^  or  employed  to  contain 
relics  of  Buddha  or  of  some  of  his  sauited  disciples.  The  base 
is  a  cube  on  which  rests  a  sphere  topped  by  a  pyramid,  a 
crescent,  and  a  ball,  the  whole  symbolizing  eicth,  water,  me, 
air,  and  ether.  One  glance  at  a  sotoba  is  said  to  obtain  forgive- 
ness for  all  sins.  A  still  simpler  form,  one  in  common  use,  is  a 
thm,  notched  stick  often  inscribed  with  Sanscrit  characters 
and  surmounted  by  the  cube,  sphere,  etc.  A  much  more  elab- 
orate form,  called  Kotsurdd  (because  it  is  supposed  to  contain 
the  bones  of  a  saint)  is  described  in  Rte.  9.  The  Japanese 
development  of  the  archaic  form  is  noteworthv.  A  description 
of  the  numerous  forms  of  monumental  tablets  and  aUied 
memoria  connected  with  the  native  temples  would  not  be  of 
much  interest  to  the  average  traveler.  The  Japanese  have 
added  a  great  mass  of  newfangled  devices  to  the  old  Buddhist 
fwms,  and  a  book  would  be  needed  to  describe  them  all. 

Many  Temple  Yards  contain  war  relics  in  the  form  of 
broken  machine-guns,  fragments  of  war-vessels,  etc.,  and 
ahnost  every  inclosure  has  one  or  more  stone  or  bronze  slabs 
or  monuments  to  Uie  memory  of  the  soldiers  who  died  in  the 
Chinese  and  Russian  Wars. 

Hie  Temple  Reliquaries  contain  alleged  treasures  in 
hikemono  and  makemono  form  (hanging  scrolls  and  rolls), 
painted  or  written  by  some  holy  person  or  celebrity  of  the  past; 
individual  belongings  of  the  founders  of  the  different  Buddhist 
Beets;  relics  of  Buddha  (usually  spurious) ;  weapons  of  historical 
figures  now  worshiped  as  divimties;  and  many  articles  once 
oimed  by  mikados,  ahdgunSf  or  samurai.   Not  a  few  of  the 
paintings  one  sees  for  originals  are  of  doubtful  paternity. 
As  a  rule  the  priests  are  willing  to  show  and  explain  tne  temple 
belongings  to  interested  foreigners.    In  some  instances  the 
objects  are  enshrined  in  a  sacrarium  or  holy  of  holies  (oku" 
no4n)f  either  in  the  innermost  part  of  the  temple,  immedi- 
ately behind  it,  or  at  the  end  of  a  shaded  avenue.    When 
detached,  the  okvrruMn  is  outwardly  austere;  where  Shinto 
influence  predominates  it  is  called  oku-sha.  Those  relics  sus- 
ceptible to  injury  by  dampness  or  exposure  are  usually  kept 
in  a  sealed  godown  during  the  rainy  season  and  are  not  witn- 
drawn  for  exhibition.   The  most  revered  object  (usually  Uie 
figure  of  some  deified  person)  in  a  sacrarium  is  often  hidden 
from  the  public  gaze  by  a  curtain  (mitocho;  kinran  no  tocho) 
which  is  drawn  only  on  special  occasions;  the  ceremony  of 
eqxMonff  the  relic  is  called  kaicho.  The  traveler  can  usually 
get  a  glimpse  of  the  sacred  object  by  the  adroit  application  of 
a  small  fee  to  the  person  in  charge  of  it.  Where  it  is  r^arded 
as  a  national  treasure,  the  gov't  maintains  a  zealous  super- 
Urnaa  over  it.  One  can  never  be  sure  that  one  is  seeing  t\i<^ 
u  duplies^  ofteD  take  their  places,  and  B\idS>isixx 


cczii  TEMPLE  TERMS 

seems  not  to  proscribe  deception  on  the  part  of  the  priesti. 
The  most  famous  relics  are  reproduced  in  many  forms  of  ark 
and  are  sold  at  or  near  'the  temples.  Here  also  is  carried  on  a 
petty  commerce  in  charms  (mamoHf  or  mamorv-fuda)  and  hdy 
mscriptions  (o  fuda)  on  paper  or  stones,  in  oblata  stampea 
with  Buddhist  sjrmbols,  and  the  hke.  The  wood  of  demolisbfid 
Shinto  shrines  is  often  sold  to  the  faithful  in  the  form  of  dbop- 
sticks  or  as  talismans  against  evil.  The  large  single-panel 
ornamental  screen  which  often  sits  near  the  entrance  to  tem- 
ples or  priestly  apartments  is  called  tsuUate,  The  wisps  d 
paper  oftentimes  mscribed  with  prayers,  which  one  sees  tied 
to  the  grating,  etc.,  of  shrines  are  placed  there  by  the  credulouB 
with  a  petition  or  a  passion  to  gratify.  The  pigeons  and  chick- 
ens which  foregather  at  temples  are  neither  sacred  nor  circum- 
spect; coops  of  the  latter  are  often  seen  in  the  temple  ambula- 
tory: it  were  better  that  the  former  remained  away,  but 
Buddhist  kindness  sanctions  their  untidiness  for  the  reason 
explained  at  p.  510. 

The  HosHU-NO-TAMA,  or  Wealth-producing  Ball  (hd,  pre- 
cious; shuy  produce;  no,  of;  tama,  ball),  which  surmounts  many 
temples  ana  religious  structures  in  Japan,  is  supposed  to  be  an 
emblem  of  good  luck.  It  bears  some  resemblance  to  an  exag- 
gerated acorn,  and  is  often  half-encircled  by  a  bickering  flame. 
As  an  evil-averter  it  bears  practically  the  same  relation  to 
demons  that  a  Ughtning-rod  does  to  lightning. 

The  Swastika,  or  fylfot  C  hammer  of  Thor'),  depicted  on 
the  breast  of  Buddhst  idols,  or  emblazoned  on  temple  faQadea, 
S3nnbolizes  happiness  for  *  Ten  Thousand  Years.' — The  Cbestb 
which  are  such  conspicuous  features  in  temple  adornment,  are 
referred  to  in  their  proper  places  throughout  the  Guidebodk. 
The  oft-recurring  Tomoe  (Life  Principle  of  the  Chinese),  and 
the  triple  form,  or  mitsu-domoe  (3  comma-shaped  figures  with 
heads  converging  at  the  center  of  a  circle)  is  mentioned  under 
Korean  Flag, 

The  Saneo,  or  small  metallic  instrument  with  three  pronp 
on  each  end,  neld  by  Buddhist  priests  during  prayers,  is  pei^ 
haps  an  adaptation  of  the  trisula  or  three-pointed  trident 
emblem  of  Siva.  The  original  is  used  attributively  as  a  tritul 
cross,  and  is  believed  by  certain  high  authorities  to  represent 
Buddha  himself.  The  goko,  or  five-pronged  instrument,  is  often 
seen  in  temples,  alongside  others  called  kuko,  toko,  etc. 

The  Temple  Music  is  afflictive  to  foreigners  and  has  been 
aptly  classified  as  'dissonant  squeaks  and  discords.'  The 
antiphonal  chants  of  the  bonzes  are  accompanied  at  times  by 
Chinese  flutes,  monotonic  drums  (whose  deep  baying  is  some* 
times  soul-stirring),  and  the  penetrating  sound  made  by  dap- 
ping together  the  hardwood  sticks  called  higoshige.  The  temfMe 
drums  (O-daiko)  are  sometimes  suspend^  from  the  luften^ 
or  rest  on  low  frames  and  carry  adornments  of  h68hu^no4ama 


TED&'L0T6B  oexiii 

and  other  nmlioa]  fliymbols.  Gortain  of  them  raoaD  the  imnh- 
rtninoeia.  of  fhmipeaii  cathedrals.  When  thwadrad  ligqroumr 
with  the  short,  padded  tninohieon  whioh  usually  hangs  Desicle 
^baxki  th^  sjMendid  reverberatawis  can  be  heard  afar.  Plea9- 
ing  adjuncts  are  the  bronse  gongs»  w^th'  shigiilariy  hamoidoUs 
kmes  that  echo  plamtivdy  long  uter  they  are  struck. 

Hie  Japanese  word  for  a  Buddhist  temple  is  tera,  and  the 
VQlgar  often  call  the  head  priest  thereof  by  the  respectful  title 
d04era  soma  (honorable  hig^  temple  c^dal).  A  polite  eollo- 
auial  name  for  Buddha  is  Hotohe  sa$na  (honcNrable  dei^).  Ji, 
the  Cl^ese  term  for  temple,  is  often  used  as  an  amz,  as: 
Bon^  (principal  temple).  San  (or  zan)  is  affixed  to  the  name 
of  many  tem^es  to  mmcate  that  thev  stand  on  a  mt.^  as, 
KSya-san.  7n  is  a  smilar  terminal,  ana  is  used  as  an  affix  to 
the  Buddhist,  or  posthumous,  nanae  of  persons  of  the  hii^er 
dtts  -—  to  many  of  whom  toni^  are  dedicated.  The  opm- 
loon  i)eople  frequently  call  temples  by  the  name  of  the  deity 
irocshiped  in  thon^  as:  Fudd  soma;  Hachiman  (Ojin-ieimd, 
the  waivg^.  and  to  whom  many  fine  temples  are  consecrated), 
etc.  A  Buddhist  temple  furnished  with  all  the  neoessaiy  cham- 
bers or  buildinflB,  such  as  the  main  gate  {sammon),  the  main 
temple  (&iifetf-(&,  or  honrdd^  i.e..  place  whim  ihe  idols  are  set 
19),  the  pulpit  (hdd6),  batii-nouse  {ifokurskUsu),  refectory 
(tkolaiHld),  etc.,  is  cdled  iScftic^id^HKi^  The  three  requisite 
utensils  before  a  Buddhist  idol  —  a  floweiwase^  candlestick, 
and  an  incense^imt  —  are  called  miUugu^oku.,  The  pictures  of 
the  Buddhist  heaven  so  often  seen  in  temples  are  called  (&m- 
8krit)  mandar<u.  Where  temples  are  erected  in  high  places 
tboe  are  usually  two  approaiches;  onCf  onna^zaka  (woman's 
way),  being  of  easy  ascent;  the  other  and  more  difficult  one. 
olohhzakay  or  men^  road.  —  Those  temples  inclosed  by  a  wall 
bearing  five  horisontal  white  stripes  (comp.  Nij5  Castle,  KyGto) 
were  at  one  time  under  Imperial  patronage.  —  It  is  considered 
fdUcitous  by  Buddhist  priests  to  harbor  snakes  around  their 
temples,  and  it  is  said  that  they  often  handle  and  teach  th«n 
ample  tricks. 

The  Lotus.  Intimatel;^  aasoeiated  with  Buddhism  in  Japan  is  the  ktus- 
9mm  iNdumbium  apectomm;  J^anese  HatUt  or  Batge),  whose  original 
Irame.was  in  the  monsoon  district  of  India  and  whose  ciUtivation  and  esti- 
Otttion  are  very  ancient.  It  was  formerly,  together  with  the  fishes  and 
turtles  in  saered  tanks,  dedicated  to  Stva,  wno,  according  to  an  old  Indian 
kemd,  sat  upon  its  leares  looking  when  the  great  flood  swallowed  up  every- 
thing. Buddnists  to<^  it  later  as  the  symbol  of  tb^  teachings.  As  it  Utts 
iq»  its  buds  out  of  the  slini^  ground  to  a  greater  or  less  height  above  the 
water,  unfc^ding  its  beautiful  leaves  and  flowers,  on  whose  spotless  petals 
10  tnuMs  aretobe  found  of  the  mire  from  which  it  has  sprung,  so  the  souls 
of  men,  aeocmling  to  Buddhist  faitii,  rise  from  the  slime  of  sin,  by  their  own 
Pnrar  ^w«<  effort,  to  <fifferent  heights,  and  reach  the  blessedness  of  nirvana. 
Siddlpft  b  leprossnted  sitting  on  an  open  lotus-flower,  the  emblem  of 


upposdd  tbKt  tlie  pbni 

llttto  liyB  two  vmmtaet  ahng  wUh  J9(iddliifm,  la  £.  Am  t;b» 


OOXIV 


SHINTOISM 


most  widely  cultivated  species  has  pink  blossoms,  but  in  Japan  and  China 
there  is  another  variety,  whose  flowers  of  purest  white  are  no  less  beautifuL 
It  is  often  planted  in  ponds,  partly  for  the  sake  of  its  magnifioent  blossoms, 
partly  to  obtain  its  emble  rhisome  (renkon) ,  on  account  of  its  oily  nuts.  Its 
cylindrical  white  rhisome  attain  a  considerable  length;  and  a  tmcknein  of 
from  3  to  5  in.  ^  Thev  lie  far  down  in  the  mud,  and  are  divided  by  con- 
stricting fibers  into  long  fingers,  which  when  cut  across  disclose  a  very 
porous  substance  permeated  by  numerous  concentric  canals.  Thev  contain 
a  toleraUe  amount  of  starch,  and  are  boiled  and  eaten  in  considerable  quan- 
tities. To  Europeans  their  insipid,  mealy  taste  is  not  agreeable,  but  the 
Chinese  and  Japanese  are  fond  of  them,  and  because  easily  digested  con- 
sider them  nutritious.  The  seeds  are  called  hasu-no-mi,  the  leaf,  haau-no-^, 
and  the  swamp  or  pond  in  which  the  plant  grows,  haau-no-ike.  The  flowers 
come  in  midsummer  when  the  iris  season  is  over  and  the  heat  has  reached 
its  height.  Then  hundreds  of  acres  of  ponds  throughout  the  country,  and 
the  old  moats  in  T6ky5  and  elsewhere,  are  covered  with  the  lovely  blooms. 
While  nearly  all  the  other  NymphaacecB  spread  out  their  dull  green  leaves 
flat  on  the  suiface  of  the  water,  the  lotus  lifts  hers,  as  she  does  her  flowers, 
on  long  stems  high  above  it.  A  beautiful  green  color,  fine  veining,  and  diell- 
like  arching  and  cavity  distinguish  the  leaves  also,  and  they  are  Bceaody 
less  beautiful  when  the  dewdrops  lie  upon  them  in  the  mormng,  like  thou- 
sands of  pearls,  than  when  these  are  chased  away  by  the  beams  of  the  rising 
sun.  Unfortunately  the  plant  is  an  ornainent,  standing  in  the  water  only 
during  the  summer  and  autumn  months,  and  not  through  the  long  winter, 
when  the  dead  withered  leaves  offend  the  sight. 

Conspicuous  among  other  flowers  consecrated  to  Buddha  or  connected 
with  his  worship  is  the  Illicium  religioaum  iShikimi)^  a  species  of  native  ever- 
green shrub  (called  anise  or  star-anise,  from  its  fine  aromatic  scent)  of  the 
natural  order  Magnohacne  (Illicium  Floridanum,  and  /.  parvij^oruin  in  the 
U.S.A.),  cultivated  in  gardens  and  temple  yards.  In  April  it  msplays  num- 
erous fragrant  yellowish-white  blossoms;  the  temple  vases  are  adorned  with 
its  branches,  much  as  those  of  the  Shinto  shrines  are  with  SakcUti.  The 
perfumed  bark  is  burned  as  incense  before  the  deities,  and  because  of  ite 
property  of  consuming  slowly  and  uniformly,  it  is  often  powdered  and 
burned  m  a  tube  to  mark  time.  Chop-sticks  are  made  of  the  wood,  while  the 
poisonous  fruit  is  thrown  away. 

XI.  Shintdism.  Shinto  Shrines.  Shinto  Worship. 

Shintd,  or  ShirUoismf  the  (so-called)  national  religioii  of 
Japan,  with  approximately  196,000  temples,  or  Sirinee, 
divided  into  10  sects  or  branches  counting  20  million  or  more 
adherents  served  by  16,000  shrine  attendants,  dates  from  the 
dawn  of  Japanese  history  and  is  intimately  associated  with  the 
mythology  of  the  race.  Shinto,^  literally,  *  the  way  of  the  gods, 
or  spirits,'  is  derived  from  the  Chinese  shin  too  («^in,  gc3,  or 
^ods,  or  spirit;  and  too.  way,  path,  doctrine).  When  Chiiifiee 
hterature  was  imported  into  Japan  the  people  adopted  many 
Chinese  ideas,  laws,  customs,  and  practices.  These  they  so 
mixed  with  their  own  that  it  became  necessary  to  adopt  a 
special  name  for  the  ancient  native  customs,  which  were  in 
consequence  called  (in  a.d.  555,  says  Murdoch)  Kami  no  michi, 
or  Shinto,  the  word  michi  being  applied  in  the  same  sense  as 
too;  and  kami  because  of  their  divine  origin.   It  successfully 

^  In  the  Shintd  mytholocv  the  first  pair  of  creative  beings  were  Iwsma^ 

and  Izanami.  From  them  the  gods  of  the  Shintd  pantheon  are  deeccnded. 

Amateraau^  the  sun-goddess,  was  their  first  child.   Her  brother,  8ttmM0  *i 

the  ImpetuouB  Male  Augustness,  is  one  of  the  most  prominent  of  the  .flfibihlf 

godg,  mnd  is  the  legendary  father  sA  tihe  €s8t  ruler  of  Isumo,  Qkuni  muki. 


SHINTOISM  oczv 

differentiated  the  native  religion  from  the  imported,  the 
Butsud5,  or  'The  Way  of  Buddha.'  'In  the  course  of  cen- 
turies this  cult  (ancestor-worship^  the  foundation  of  all  civil- 
ized society)  has  undergone  modifications,  and  has  assumed 
various  shapes;  but  ever3rwhere  in  Japan  its  fundmnental 
character  remains  unchanged.  The  three  forms  of  the  Shinto 
worship  of  ancestors  are  the  Domestic  Cult,  the  Communal 
Cult,  and  the  State  Cult;  —  or,  in  other  words,  the  worship 
of  family  ancestors;  of  clan  or  tribal  ancestors;  and  of  impe- 
rial ancestors.  The  Ist  is  the  religion  of  the  home;  the  2d, 
of  the  local  divinity,  or  tutelar  god;  the  3d,  the  national  re- 
ligion. The  family  cult  is  the  first  in  evolutional  order,  —  the 
others  being  later  developments.' 

Properly  speaking,  ShirUd  is  not  a  religion,  since  it  has  no  dogma,  no  ethi- 
cal code,  and  no  sacred  book.  The  absence  of  a  code  of  morals  is  accounted 
for  by  the  innate,  perfection  of  the  Japanese  people,  who,  having  descended 
from  the  kami  (gods),  have  no  evil  incfinations,  such  as  Occidentals  have,  to 
overcome,  and  whose  manners  and  customs  need  no  reform.  Since  there 
is  no  doctrinal  system,  the  faith  does  not  concern  itself  about  a  future  state. 
The  precepts  of  the  diJBFerent  sects,  which  di£Fer  only  in  a  few  details  of  cere- 
mony, are:  *  Follow  the  impulse  of  your  nature  and  obey  your  Emperor.' 
The  prayer  of  the  ShirUdists  begins  with  the  old  Japanese  words:   *  Taka 
fnagakara  ni  kamirtodomarit  i.e.,  *  O  Kami,  thou  who  art  enthroned  in  the 
hifl^est  space  of  heaven! '    The  historjr  of  Japan  is  really  the  history  of 
Shinto;  and  no  fact  in  this  connection  is  more  edgnificant  than  Uiat  the 
ancient  Japanese  term  for  government,  maUuri-gotOt   signifies   literally, 
'Matters  of  Worship.'  *Shint6f*  says  Mr.  Heamt  'seems  to  me  like  an 
occult  force,  —  vast,  extraordinary,  —  which  has  not  been  seriously  taken 
into  account  as  a  force,    I  think  it  is  the  hopeless,  irrefragable  obstacle  to 
the  Christianisaticni  of  Japan.  It  is  not  all  a  belief,  nor  all  a  religion;  it  is 
a  thing  formless  as  a  magnetism  and  indefinable  as  an  ancestnu  impulse. 
It  is  a  part  of  the  Soul  of  the  Race.  It  means  all  the  loyalty  of  the  nation 
to  its  sovereign,  the  devotion  of  retainers  to  princes,  the  respect  to  sacred 
things,  the  conservation  of  the  principles,  the  whole  of  what  an  En^lish- 
num  would  call  sense  of  dut^;  but  that  this  sense  seems  to  be  hereditary 
and  inborn.   I  think  a  baby  is  Shinto  from  the  time  its  eyes  can  see.  Here, 
too,  the  symbolism  of  ShirUd  is  among  the  very  first  things  the  child  sees. 
The  toys -are  to  a  great  extent  Shintd  toys;  and  the  excursions  of  a  young 
mother  with  a  baby  on  her  back  are  usually  to  Shintd  temples.   In  Izumo 
^ven  the  NichireniteB  are  Shintoista,    The  two  religions  are  so  perfectlv 
blended  here  that  the  lines  of  demarcation  are  somewhat  impossible  to  find. 
I  think  we  Occidentals  have  yet  to  learn  the  worship  of  ancestors,  and  evo- 
lution is  going  to  teach  us.    When  we  become  conscious  that  we  owe  what- 
ever is  wise  or  good  or  strong  or  beautiful  in  each  one  of  us,  not  to  one 
particular  inner  individuality,  but  to  the  struggles  and  sufferings  and 
^^riences  of  the   whole!  unknown   chain  of  human   lives   behind    us, 
leaching    back    into   mystery   unthinkable,  —  the    worship  of  ancestors 
seems  an  extremely  righteous  thing.    What  is  it,  philosophically,  but  a 
tribute  of  gratitude  to  the  past,  —  dead  relatively  only,  —  alive  really 
i       within  us,  and  about  us?  ' 

Shintdium  (says  an  authority)  aims  at  the  happiness  of  earthly  life,  and 
assumes  that  the  souls  of  the  departed  can  essentially  aid  in  securing  it. 
'       They  are  conceived,  therefore,  to  be  present,  and  are  summoned  by  those 
who  come  to  them,  by  clapping  of  hands,^  a  bell,  a  drum,  etc.  The  Shintd 


1 


supposition  vuav  &i>  u  jiuwuvt^u  vvr  avvtai^u  vuc  ckvu^u  vxwu  wt  vu«^  vtoaujr  u>  xckuvixui. 

Cnttured  Japanese  have  assured  us  that  it  is  for  the  purpose  of  clearing  the 
QdBd  of  all  extraneous  thoughts,  bad  or  otherwise,  and  that  it  arises  {toxh  a 
ngtkoiU  oiutom  of  c]appin^  the  haDd9  when  ajl  diaoq^aion  relaUvQ  V)  o^ 


CKJXvi  RYOBU-SHINTO 

gods  are  by  no  means  the  pure  and  exalted  forms  which  Buddhism  pivaenti 
to  us,  —  no  saints  through  the  overcoming  of  sensuous  pleasures,  —  but 
affected  by  all  human  feelings  and  weaknesses,  and  taking  pleasure  in  every- 
thing that  adds  enjoyment  and  amusement  to  existence.  Accordingly  tbMr 
wonuupers  seek  to  delight  them  on  their  festivals,  not  only  with  meat  and 
drink,  but  also  by  theatrical  processions,  pantomimes,  and  so  on,  and  do  not 
think  it  objectionable  that  streets  leading  to  certain  of  their  shrines  contain 
houses  dedicated  to  the  worship  of  Aphrodite.  Of  the  servants  of  the  kami, 
purity  of  the  body  is  required  rather  than  purity  of  the  heart.  The  Ski^i 
kanniuhi  do  not  shave  their  heads,  as  the  Buddhist  bonzes  do,  and  onhr 
wear  a  special  dress  when  exercising  their  office.  Thev  neither  practice  ot&- 
bacy  nor  have  monasteries.  ShirUd  worship  has  an  elaborate  ritual  and  Dnm- 
erous  rules  as  to  purification.  From  the  earliest  period  the  cult  exacted  aoni- 
pulous  cleanliness  —  indeed^  we  might  say  it  regarded  physical  impurity  •■ 
identical  with  moral  impunty,  and  intolerable  to  the  gods.  It  hiUB  alwayi 
been  a  religion  of  ablutions.  The  Japanese  love  of  cleanliness  has  been 
maintained,  and  was  probably  initiated,  by  their  reli^on.  The  most  import^ 
ant  of  all  Shinto  ceremonies  is  the  ceremony  of  purification,  —  o-harai,  mt 
it  is  called,  or  the  casting  out  of  evils. 

According  to  the  Japanese  annalists  Shinto  as  a  national  and  reUpoos 
ceremonial  remained  in  a  state  of  simplicity  for  1100  yrs.,  or  until  the  intro- 
duction of  Buddhism  in  a.d.  552.  Although  it  had  proved  itself  somevi^t 
deficient  in  the  guiding  influences  of  a  creed,  its  hold  upon  ihe  primitive 
people  was  such  that  it  was  not  until  well  along  in  the  9th  cent,  that  Bod- 
dhism,  with  its  more  profound  metaphysics,  its  moral  code,  and  its  gor- 

Seously  solemn  rites,  began  to  spread  through  the  land.  Eventually  (coinei- 
ent  with  the  reorganization  of  Japanese  administration,  thought*  and 
action  upon  the  Chinese  plan,  and  under  Confucian  influence)  it  over- 
shadowed the  national  life  and  colored  all  the  native  thought.  About  800. 
the  astute  Kdbd-Daiahi  compounded  out  of  Buddhism,  Confucianism,  ana 
Shintd  a  system  which  he  called  RyObu-ShiatO  ('  two  religions,'  or  'depari* 
ments  '),  and  with  it  made  a  shrewd  and  almost  successful  bid  for  the  com- 

Elete  aDsorption  of  Shintd  by  declaring  that  the  higher  Shintd  gods  were 
icamations  of  various  Buddnas.  On  account  of  its  superior  adaptation  to 
man's  sense  of  his  own  shortcomings  and  longing  for  perfection,  the  new 
compound,  combining  as  it  did  the  finest  phases  of  the  two  creeds,  obtained 
Imperial  approval  and  support.  In  hundreds  of  places  the  two  religiMii 
were  domiciled  within  the  same  precinct  —  sometimes  even  witiiin  the  same 
temple:  ostensibly  they  were  amalgamated. 

Buddhism,  or  Ryobu-Shinto,  or  Shin- BiUsu- Konkd,  may  thus  be  said  to 
have  become  the  religion  of  the  nation ;  it  held  its  position  for  upward  Oi  a 
millenniiun,  or  until  the  period  of  the  Tokugaioa  ahoguns,  when  it  was  partly 
supplanted  in  the  intellects  of  the  educated  class  bv  the  philosophy  of  Chu 
H%  (the  great  commentator  of  Confucius,  who  lived  and  taught  in  the  12th 
cent.).  The  practice  of  pure  Shinto  was  kept  alive  for  a  century  or  two  al 
the  Mikado's  court,  and  at  a  few  Shinto  temples,  then  gradually  it  degenei^ 
ated  into  a  mere  thing  of  forms,  the  meaning  of  which  was  forgotten,  n^iile 
the  forms  themselves  were  perverted.    In  addition  to  the  RySbu-Skiniit 
there  arose  other  schools:  the    Yui-itau  Shintd,  invented  by    Yatkida 
Kanetomi  about  the  end  of  the  15th  cent.;  that  of   Deguchi    Nobu^oM 
(Kannutihi  of  the  Geku  temple  at  lae)  about  1660;  and  the  Suiga.  Shintd  di 
Yamazaki  Ansai  (17th  cent.).    The  1st  of  these  is  chiefly  founded  on  ths 
Buddhism  of  the  Shingonshu;  the  2d  explains  the  phenomena  of  the  divins 
ages  by  the  Book  of  Changes  (  Yih  King;  placed  by  many  Chinese  scholan 
at  the  head  of  the  Five  Classics,  or  Wu  King) ;  the  3d  is  a  combination  of 
Yoshida  Shintd,  and  of  Chu  Hi's  philosophy.   '  The  threatened  extinotka 
of  Shintd  aroused  the  interest  of  certain  native  writers,  and  in  the  18th  cent, 
the  works  of  Kamo  Mabuchi  (1697-1769),  Motoori  Norinaga  (1730-1801)i 
Hirata  Atautane  (1776-1843),  and  others  brought  about  a  reaction  in  favor 
of  the  national  religion  against  Buddhism  and  Confucianism,  which  were  d 
foreign  origin.    Their  bnef  was  that  "pure  Shintd  "  —  by  which  is  meaal 
the  religious  belief  of  the  Japanese  previous  to  the  introduction  of  Buddhifll 

controveny,  a  commercial  trade  or  the  like,  is  eliminated,  and  a  felidtow 
aoIutioD  or  bargain  is  decided  upon.  Hence  the  expression:  Te  wo  «<ni.*  tt 
'cJsp  the  bands,*  to  '  strike  a  bargaui,' 


SHINTO  SBKINES 


IWe  an  in  reality  two  suprone  oults  in  ShmtO:  thkt  ctf  the 
mt-goddoH  (and. her  imperial  descendants)  worshiped  at  lie, 
lod  the  more  aacieat  Ixumo  oult.  The  temple  of  Kittuki  is  the 
oentet  of  this.  It  is  dedicated  to  an  c^spring  of  the  sun- 
godden,  iriu>,  diqioesessed  of  his  realm  in  favor  of  the  founder 
of  the  Impoial  dynasty,  became  Um  ruler  of  the  Unseen  World 
(the  worn  of  i^tosts).  tJnto  his  dladowv  dpminiiw  the  smrita 
of  all, men  {vooeed  after  death:  and  ne  rules  over  all  the 
Vjigmni — and  is  therefore  the  l!inp«nr  of  the  Dead.  SJiitUO- 
tM  has  peiaoniSed  all  the  foroea  and  all  the  phenomena  of 
iMare,  ud  has  sought  to  promtiAtB  them;  hence  their  gods 
(nmnrd  <tf  14,000  in  all)  <rf  toe  mta.,  the  sea,  the  wind,  of 
„  quraoios,  etc.  "Tbe  sovereigns  (TeTuki,  or  'sous  of  heaven ') 
i  tnoe  their  descent  to  the  supreme  gods  of  all  these,  and  the 
ewnee  of  their  administrative  title  waa  that  they  interceded 
wldi  the  gods  for  the  peojde  th^  governed.'  A  national  kami, 
a  nrt  of  Jehovah,  is  said  to  be  worshiped  by  the  nation  in 
gneral. 

Tba  SbintG  fi'"'™""  (miiia;  jinja)  are  divided  into  4  official 

pides  (witii  subdivicoons)  —  atat«,  provincial,  (Hcfectuial, 

ta^  ^liviaional  (or  district).   Between  the  first  uid  the  last 

'bail  in  as  mwdi  diffsrowe  in  the  standing  <rf  the  shnnea  as  in 

d»of  fluir  oflkiil»i  but  there  need  not  be  any  cone- 

tg  dUensiw  ia  tli»  relative  importance  of  tJie  deitiea 


ecxviii  SHINTO  SHRINES 

worshiped.  State  shrines  axe  dedicated,  in  most  casei 
divine  ancestors,  but  at  some  the  objects  of  devo 
sovereigns  or  subjects  that  attained  special  distincti< 
hierarchy  is  not  as  exalted  as  its  popularity  might  ind 
the  rank  held  by  the  greatest  of  the  officials  is  no  hig] 
that  of  a  local  governor  or  a  vice-minister  of  state.  ' 
neither  pope  nor  archbishop.  The  official  allowanc 
there  is  one,  varies  from  ¥33  to  ¥200  a  month  (the  latt 
the  salary  of  the  highest  of  the  officials).  It  is  said  i 
State  grants  about  ¥216,000  a  year  to  the  support  o 
shrines  (which  is  sometimes  augmented  by  the  offering 
pious,  the  sale  of  amulets,  etc.)  and  extends  no  aid 
dhism.  The  relatively  small  number  of  skinkwariy  of  k 
(shrine  officials)  is  accounted  for  by  the  fact  that  th< 
(as  they  are  usually  but  erroneously  called)  do  not 
regularly.  Generally  speaking,  but  one  or  two  serv 
performed  annually  at  each  shrine.  These  stand  frc 
uninhabited  and  unattended.  Now  and  then  a  w 
comes,  grasps  the  thick  hempen  rope  that  hangs  i 
swajrs  it  against  the  gong  across  which  it  is  suspend 
havmg  thus  smnmoned  the  presiding  spirit,  mutters 
prayer,  deposits  a  small  copper  coin  in  the  alms-chest,  2 
his  way. 

In  its  purest  form  the  miya  is  a  small  temple  withou' 
images;  the  objects  exposed  for  the  veneration  of  wo 
are  placed  in  the  chief  hall  (honden)  on  or  beside  a  plai 
quered  table  representing  the  altar.  These  are  usually 
metal  mirror  (spoken  of  by  some  as  mi-tamajiro  or 
spirit-siibstitute,'  and  as  kan-zaney  *  god's  seedO,  tl 
(see  below),  and  a  precious  stone  (usually  a  rock  cryst 
posed  to  typify  the  purity,  depth,  and  power  of  tl 
Generally  at  one  side  of  thefie  things,  somewhat  lower, 
vases  with  branches  of  the  sacred,  ievergreen  Cleyerajc 
(aakaki)  which  here  takes  the  place  of  the  lUicium  rel 
of  Buddhist  fanes,  and  from  whose  wood  the  staff  for  t 
(as  well  as  the  chop-sticks  for  the  meat-ofiferings)  wen 
ally  made.  The  slips  of  paper  (called  tamagiLshi)  atta 
the  aakaki  branches  are  offerings  to  the  kami.  The 
{ahinkyo),  supposed  by  many  to  be  the  distineuishing 
a  Shintd  shrine,  is  said  to  be  found  only  in  tnose  wM 
been  under  the  influence  of  Buddhism. 

Each  mirror  is  contained  in  a  box  of  hinoki,  furnished  with  8  haii 
the  box  itself  and  4  on  the  Ud.  The  box  rests  on  a  low  stand  and  i 
with  a  piece  of  cloth  said  to  be  white  silk.  The  mirror  itself  is  wra 
brocade  bag,  which  is  never  opened  or  renewed,  but  when  it  begint 
pieces  from  age,  another  bag  is  put  oh,  so  that  the  actual  coverin 

1  The  Cleyera  janonicat  a  fine  evergreen  shrub  of  the  genus  Ter 

ia  to  Shintd  kanntuhi  what  the  wood  of  the  olive  is  to  the  priests  of . 

Numerous  articles  carved  from  it  are  sold  by  them,  chiefly  ^op 

in  thia  oaae  called  Sakaki-^no-htuhi.  The  fine-grained  wood  is  alw 

seals  and  such  carvings  as  demand  a  &nn  tAxXAite . 


n  (coMpoimded   of  ti 

h  pfoid  two  loog  pLecfls  of  paper,  notidwd  oltematelj r<- 

Jut  Uiey  HsuDH  a  tHiated  appMiBnoe.  In  wme  ituines  wbioh 
loni  ID  the  hands  of  the  BuddtTuta,  ^t  metal  haa  been  ubatituted 
"Hie  BBhei  lepieseat  offetinaB  of  twuih  uxl  fine  white  dotli  (anUn* 
t  are  the  irorda  UAed  in  the  tunroocaddmoai  totiiesada).aiida* 
«■  weie  Mppoaed  to  have  the  elle«t  of  MUaetlns  the  tod*  qiliita 

I  aa  the  MSti  of  the  gods,  ^d  even  ae  Uie  lodB  UumwlTe*.  At 
rer»  the  oohei  have  retained  their  oiiginBl  meaninc-  Tlien  ii  bni 
to  each  Eod  wDrahiimi  at  any  particular  ahHne,  and  where  three 

ttombsT  oS  deities.  It  is  ernmeously  boKoved  that  (he  three  gali'i 

y.  The  Httoiioe  of  olwasinii  the  hands  before  praylns  a*  a  shdoe 
imoo  to  both  ShitUSitU  and  Buddhiab;  it  is  ■ymbolio  of  purifier 


I  purpoae  doe*  not  «eem  to  hare  any  tninieit- 

, r  of  the  Chr^ —     "" ''^  '  "-  -" 

WMT  at  fixed  intervolB  h 
oSed  S" 


■  Hke  the  holy  irater  of  the  Chiiiliaiii.    The  mpa  inth  tufta  of 


MretohtS^bM 


idely  celebrated  DayingS  at  Ise  (Rte.  35)  ate  the  most 
it  shriaes  in  the  Empire,  next  in  rank  being  the  Great 
'7zumo(Rte.30).  SpeciaJlyBacred  shrines  are  the  artia- 
itiBfying  Hachiman-gU,  near  KyOto,  the  Kaauga,  at 
e  Inari,  at  KyBto,  the  superbly  situated  Komjnra,  at 
I  (Shikoku  Is.],  etc.  The  firstr-named,  at  wMch  the 
'Slid  the  Imperial  family  wonihip,  comera  every  ajid 
iGt,  and  is  the  mcst  potent  of  its  Kind.  '  To  the  apirit« 
iceetoni  which  are  supposed  to  hover  within  its  saoro- 
idacta  aie  told  (officially  and  with  all  solemnity)  the 
io  war  and  diplomacy,  Uie  death  of  any  gieat  person- 


ccxx  SHINTO  SHRINES 

Bation  to  spirits  of  persons  who  suffered  great  injustice  or  mis- 
fortune.' In  every  home  there  is  a  shrine  devoted  to  reUgion. 
If  the  family  profess  only  the  Shinto  belief,  this  sluine,  or 
mitamaya  (august-spirit  dwelling),  or  more  properly  termed 
miyGf  —  a  tiny  model  of  a  regular  temple,  —  is  placed  upon  a 
shelf  (Mitamasan  no  tanaj  or  'Shelf  of  the  August  Spirits') 
fixed  against  the  wall  of  some  inner  chamber,  about  6  ft.  from 
the  floor.  In  it  are  placed  tablets  of  white  wood  (mitamorshxrOt 
or  'spirit^ubstitutes  ')  inscribed  with  the  names  of  the  hoiMe- 
hold  dead.  If  the  faniily  worships  its  ancestors  according  to 
the  Buddhist  rite,  lacquered  and  gilded  mortuary  tablets 
(usually  called  ihaiy  or  *  soul-commemoration  *)  bearing  the 
name,  religious  or  posthumous,  and  a  carved  lotus-flower  as 
a  pedestal,  are  placed  in  the  BtUsvdan  (or  Buddhist  household 
shrine),  which  usually  occupies  the  upper  shelf  of  an  alcove  in 
one  of  the  inner  apartments.  In  either  cult  these  tablets 
surest  a  tombstone.  The  plain  gravestones  in  Shintd  ceme- 
teries resemble  in  form  the  simple  wooden  '  spirit-sticks '  i 
while  the  Buddhist  monuments  m  the  old-fashioned  grave- 
yards are  shaped  like  the  ihaij  of  which  the  form  is  slightly 
varied  to  indicate  sex  and  age. 

*In  almost  every  kitchen  there  is  either  a  tiny  shrine,  or  a 
written  charm  bearing  the  name  of  Kojin,  the  God  of  the 
Cooking-range.  In  almost  every  garden,  on  the  N.  side,  there 
is  a  little  Shintd  shrine,  facing  what  is  called  the  Kir^mon^  or 
Demon-gate,  —  that  is  to  say,   the  direction  from  whichi 
according  to  Chinese  teaching,  all  evils  come;  and  these  little 
shrines,  dedicated  to  various  Shintd  deities,  are  supposed  to 
protect  the  home  from  evil  spirits.  Almost  every  deity  menr 
tioned  in  the  Kojihi  or  Nihmgi  has  a  shrine  somewhere;  and 
hundreds  of  others  —  including  many  later  apotheoses  — 
have  their  temples.  Numbers  of  temples  have  been  dedicated, 
for  example,  to  historical  personages,  —  to  spirits  of  great 
ministers,  captains,  rulers,  scholars,  heroes,  and  statesmat 
The  famous  minister  of  tne  Empress  Jingo,  Tdke^no-uji^ 
SukunCf  is  now  invoked  in  many  a  temple  as  a  giver  of  long  life 
and  great  wisdom.    The  spirit  of  Sttgawara-no-Michizane  iB 
worshiped  as  the  God  of  Calligraphy,  under  the  name  of 
Temmangu,  etc.  The  Soga  brothers,  victims  and  heroes  of  • 
12th  cent,   tragedy,  have  become  gods  to  whom  people  pray 
for  the  maintenance  of  fraternal  harmony.    Katd  KiyomasOt 
the  determined  enemy  of  Jesuit  Christianity,  and  HiaeyoMi 
greatest  captain,  has  been  apotheosized  both  by  Buddhism  and 
by  Shinto.    leyasu  is  worshiped  imder  the  appellation  d 
Toshogu.   In  fact  most  of  the  great  men  of  Japanese  histOQT 
have  had  temples  erected  to  them.' 

The  Offerings  made  to  the  principal  deities  of  the  shriM 

consist  of  water,  rice,  salt,  fish,  birds,  vegetables,  etc.  As  • 

rule  these  are  placed  in  tiny  porcelain  saucers  ana  set  befaf6 


CHRISTUNITY  —  BUSHIDO  oczxi 

the  shrine.  On  certain  occasions  and  at  certain  shrines,  -^ 
notably  when  the  Emperor  in  person  or  by  proxy  offiers  his 
thanks  at  the  Kudan  Shokonsha,  in  Toky5,  for  some  national 
rictory  or  goes  thither  to  reverence  the  spirits  of  those  who 
lied  in  the  Russo-Japanese  War,  —  the  20th-cent.  spirit  of 
sommercialism  tinges  religious  sentiments,  and  wagon-loads 
)f  huge  tubs  cont^ning  comestibles  or  so^  within,  and  the 
idvertisement  of  the  donor  without;  boxes  of  crackers,  50  lb. 
ice-cakes;  bronze  and  porcelain  vases  and  pots  with  trees  and 
lowers;  and  many  other  offerings  are  made;  the  whole  con- 
itituting  enough  provisions  to  keep  a  tem^^e  retinue  in  food 
^or  many  months. 

Xn.  The  Christian  Religion.  Bushido. 

The  Christian  Religion  (KirishitanrshU  —  an  adaptation  of 
the  Portuguese  ChristOo)  was  brought  to  Japan  b^  the  Jesuit 
Qussionary,  St.  Francis  Xavier^  (known  in  ecclesiastical  his- 
tory as  the  Apostle  to  Japan),  who  landed  at  Kagoshima 
^ug.  15, 1549  (see  History).  In  due  time  he  was  followed  by* 
Spanish  mendicant  friars  from  the  Philippine  Is.,  belonging  to 
the  brotherhood  of  the  Dominicans,  Augustinians,  and  others, 
ill  of  whom  were  soon  preaching  and  zealously  prosel3rting. 
Xamer*s  interpreter  was  a  Japanese  named  Anjiro^  who  left 
lapan  with  Pinto,  and  at  Goa  learned  the  Portuguese  language. 
Within  hsJf  a  century  the  chiurches,  chapels,  and  residences  of 
the  fathers  were  numbered  by  thousands,  and  a  half-million 
native  converts  were  supposed  to  be  identified  with  the  new 
faiUi.  Later  many  of  these  and  the  zealous  friars  suffered 
martyrdom  in  its  crudest  form.  In  their  radical  efforts  to  root 
Dot  uie  disturbing  element,  the  rulers  adopted  methods  that 
even  the  sanguinary  Tormiemada  had  perhaps  never  dreamed 
of.  When  it  was  believed  that  Jesuitism  had  been  uprooted, 
the  shogun  issued  the  following  decree:  *So  long  as  the  sun 
shall  warm  the  earth,  let  no  Chnstian  be  so  bold  as  to  come  to 
Japan;  and  let  all  know  that  the  King  of  Spain  himself,  or  the 
Christian's  god,  or  the  great  God  of  ail,  if  he  violate  this  com- 
mand, shall  pay  for  it  with  his  head! '  The  sweeter,  milder 
faith  broi^ht  by  the  present-day  missionaries  moved  the 
Japanese  Gov't,  when  promulgating  the  Constitution  in  1889 
(art.  27)  to  say:  *  Within  limits  not  prejudicial  to  peace  and 
Older,  and  not  antagonistic  to  their  duties  as  subjects,  Japan- 
tte  subjects  shall  enjoy  freedom  of  religious  belief!'  The 
polity  of  seclusion  adopted  by  Japan  in  the  early  part  of  the 

*  St.  Francis  Xaner  was  foom  at  the  castle  Xaviero,  Navarre,  Spain, 
fg^  7, 1506,  and  died  on  the  island  of  Chanq-chuang  (Sanchian)  Nov.  27, 
jgB.  He  was  canonised  in  1622.  His  mummied  body  reposes  in  a  massive 

,  jn*  ooffin  beneath  a  stately  and  costly  sarcophagus  (a  gift  of  the  Giand 
Wifl^Toflcany)  of  Jasper  and  marble,  in  a  chape]  of  the  Church  of  Bom 

^^imjDii  the  Uhft  de  Qoa  {where  be  worked  between  1542  and  15S2). 

L...     - 


cczzii  JAPANESE  ART 

17th  cent.,  and  pursued  resolutely  until  the  middle  of  the  19fii, 
was  due  to  the  conviction  of  Tokugawa  leyasu  that  unless  tiw 
warring  priests  were  extirpated  Japan's  sovereignty  and  auton- 
omy would  be  imperiled  irremediably.  In  consequenqe,  all 
foreigners  except  the  few  Dutch  traders  were  excluded,  and 
it  is  a  significant  fact  that  with  their  expulsion,  and  under 
tiie  Tokugawa  shogunaJUy  Japan  enjoyed  the  first  peace  that 
had  been  hers  for  centuries.  The  steady  decline  of  Buddhisn 
and  the  visible  rise  of  Christianity,  as  taught  by  the  broad- 
minded,  intelligent,  humanitarian  missionaries  of  to-daji 
coupled  with  the  extraordinary  tenacity  with  which  the  rising 
generation  of  Japanese  cline  to  the  newer  behefs,  indicate 
beyond  anv  peradvcnture  that  Christianity  is  in  Japan  to 
stay  —  ana  to  become  the  national  religion. 

Bushido,  or '  Military-Knight- Ways,*  the  practical  religion 
of  the  old  warrior  class  of  feudal  Japan,  the  source  from  w£idi 
came  many  of  their  noblest  actions,  is  regarded  by  manv  as 
more  the  rehgion  of  many  Japanese  than  Christianity,  bud* 
dhism,  or  Shinto,  The  ethics  of  the  system  have  been  interest- 
ingly set  forth  bv  Dr,  Inazo  Nitobej  in  a  handy  volume 
(StishidOf  the  'Soul  of  Japan')  in  EngUsh,  obtainable  at  any 
bookstore.  It  is  recommended  as  excellent  reading. 

Xm.  A  Survey  of  Japanese  Art. 

The  Japanese  combine  with  their  artistic  skill  both  imitative 
faculty  and  inventive  power,  and  although  the  native  art 
shows  its  Chinese  affinities  in  a  host  of  ways^  this  gift  of  imitft- 
tion,  the  recognition  of  their  own  shortcommgs,  and  the  will- 
ingness to  learn  from  others  have  enabled  them  far  to  surpafli 
their  old  masters  in  the  most  extended  branches  of  art  handi* 
craft.  Their  readiness  to  appropriate  what  has  been  seen  and 
to  make  it  useful  is  no  less  manifest  than  their  abiUty  to  endow 
it  with  their  own  highly  developed  sense  of  what  is  beautiM 
in  nature  and  art.  The  artistic  skill  of  the  people  shows  ita^ 
in  the  production  of  fine  ceramics  and  in  beautiful  sUver, 
ivory,  bronze,  wood,  enamel,  and  various  kinds  of  metal- 
work;  in  the  weaving  of  compUcated  silk  and  cotton  fabrioa; 
in  skillful  embroideiy  and  inlaid  work;  in  the  art  of  lacquering^ 
and  in  a  host  of  richly  decorated  forms  made  from  plastic  clay. 
They  are  expert  engravers,  sculptors,  carvers,  painters,  sad 
decorators;  and  the  people  from  the  highest  to  the  lowest  eba^' 
interest  in,  if  they  do  not  produce,  objects  of  industrial  art 
Many  of  these  products  (called  tezaikUf  or  'fine  handwork  0 
are  made  in  small  home  workshops,  amid  humble  surroumr 
ings,  and  with  primitive  tools.  'In  the  realistic  copying  oC' 
natural  forms,  especially  of  plants,  birds,  insects,  and  aetn. 
animals,  also  various  quadrupeds,  such  as  monkeys,  rabbiW 
rata,  etc,,  and  in  the  representation  of  clouds,  rocks,  and  waler 


JAPANESE -ART  M0« 

iJaiMUDede  have  great  skiU  and  nsnaikable  exBca^ 
drawilig  answers  sharplv  and  definitely  to  the  pat^ 
resskm  and  action,  and  fascinates  the  beholder  witii 
B8  no  less  than  the  ease  and  ddicacy  ci  the  peifeet 
This  is  the  principal  charm  of  tlie  productions  ci 
drt  industry.  In  all  surface  decoration  the  use  ci 
I  and  other  ideal  curved  ornamentation  is  lees  oon- 
lan  the  Vitruvian  scroll,  the  Gammadion  and  Hook- 
geometric  figures.  'The  Chinese  origin  of  most  of 
ind  moUfs  of  the  productions  of  Japanese  industxial 
y  recognisable.  Peonies  and  chrysanthemums,  the 
ke  lotus-flower,  the  slender,  gra<ief ul  bamboo,  and 
bisarre  pines,  leafless  and  blooming  branches  of  the 
1  and  the  magnolia,  leafy  branches  of  Kerria  and 
«Ry,  the  creeping  Ulycme,  with  its  hanging  dusten 
weiSy.  the  evergreen  iVanauie,  with  its  red  berries, 
xl  seven  autumn  weeds,  especially  the  omamoital 
espedeso,  PcUrina,  and  Hibiscus  mtUabiUs,  the  flas, 
iRow-head;  rook  and  water  scenes  in  gardens  wiw 
turtles,  cranes,  herons,  i)heasants,  the  Japanese 
Land  other  singing  birdis,  insects  in  motion  and  at 
he  animals  of  the  Chinese  Zodiac,  and  sev^ul  oth^s 
phant  and  the  peacock,  renowned  in  Buddhism  and 
fjeaoda.  These  are  the  natural  objects  chosen  by  the 
s  well  as  the  Chinese.  Four  others  are  also  associ- 
hem,  the  Shi^ei,  or  four  animals  (p.  clxxviii)  of  good 
e  fabulous  Phoenix,  Dragon,  Kirin,  and  the  Turtk. 
oup  ci  decoration  designs,  employed  extensively  in 
efs,  is  from  the  Buddhist  m^hology  and  the  old 
ages  and  heroic  legends,  which  furnish  abundant 
Ix)  this  group  belongs  the  representation  of  the 
v^n^  referred  tto  at  p.  ccviii.  Certain  combioations 
rme  m  all  the  subjects  borrowed  from  nature.  The 
ral  are:  the  bamboo-cane  and  the  tiger;  the  mume" 
he  nightingale ;  ^  sunrise  with  the  pine  and  the  crane ; 
d  the  peony:  the  deer  and  the  maple;  the  crane  and 
[ssrmbols  of  happiness  and  long  life) ;  the  pine,  bam- 
nwne;  the  bulrush  and  the  silver  heron;  bamboo- 
marrow;  rain  or  willow  and  swallow;  lotus-flow^ 
neron;  the  homeward  flight  or  alighting  of  wild 
I  and  grain-field;  Fuji-san  and  storks;  carp  and  cas- 
jftwakening  of  nature  in  spring,  and  the  snowfall 
latiual  incidents  furnish  popular  decorative  themes. 


ICii^tingale  (uguiau;  pron.  oong-wees)  or  bu8h-warbler 
m);  the  npraster  singer  of  the  Japanese  woods,  a  small  greenish 
I A  gmyidiHwiute  breast,  is  distributed  over  the  whoki  oountrjr. 
ife  itawnu  comes  when  the  plums  are  in  blossom  it  is  called 
'  ~  ~  ~  Its  song  is  less  sonorous  than  that  of  the  American 
r  low,  Hute-like  notes  are  unusual^  tweet.  (Comp; 


oeiodv  PAINTING 

In  the  boauti/ul  scenery  of  their  own  country  the  Japanese  M 
most  ot  their  inspirationB.  To  delight  in  nature,  Bitting  quielJj 
at  htr  feet  to  wiit«h  her  in  her  life  and  work,  and  to  muicr 
back  the  fleeting  and  pleasing  picture  with  wiimith  and  tiulll 
as  it  was  felt  and  seen,  ia  the  foundation  principle  of  iapaam 
industrial  arc' 

Paintine.  Pictorial  and  decorative  art  were  in  a  rudimenSoj 
state  in  Japan  when  Buddhism  was  introduced  in  the  6th  mh 
and  paintinfi;  (and  artisti-c  sculpture)  had  not  yet  devet^M 
any  oistinctive  character.  The  aucceseive  wave^  of  imnigii- 
tion  which  followed  on  the  heels  of  the  new  religion  bniuf 
with  them  Hindu  artistB  and  artistic  inspirations  (some  Cif  M 
latter  vaguely  Grecian),  and  these  were  in  due  course  foUomJ 
by  others  of  Chinese  provenience.  From  these  twin  mutM 
(and  perhaps  from  others  coming  from  Korea)  the  irntire  ut 
in  all  its  wonderful  ramifications  is  Wieved  to  have  teas 
developed.  Critics  say  that  no  form  of  art  in  Japan,  nbetJM 
graphic  or  glyptic  or  plastic,  is  ever  conceived  and  elabaistel 
ouliride  these  three  dastinct  concepts.  The  first  native  mIbjk 
of  which  history  takes  note  is  beheved  t«  have  been  fouWM 
near  the  close  ot  the  8th  cent,  by  Kawanari,  an  extraordiiiM^ 
skilled  Korean  immigrant,  and  his  immediate  successor,  tw 
illustrious  Kose-^to- Kanaaka,  who  is  referred  to  us  tliefifrt 
native  painter.  Portraits,  landscapes,  and  animals  wen  liH 
themes,  but  few  if  any  of  his  pictures  have  come  down  to  IB- 
The  celebrated  Kobo-Daiahi  stands  out  as  one  of  the  greattit 
painl^rsof  the  fith  cent.,  and  he  brought  many  iRspirationsfroBii 
China  to  the  native  artists  of  Nippon.  All  these  down  to  lie, 
13th  cent. 'regarded  the  reli^us  picture  as  the  field  of  hiphm 
achievement,  and  when  their  subject  was  a  Buddhist  divmitjir 
a  Nirvana,  an  ilrAoI,  ora  Rishi,  they  sought  inspirataooatbili 
directly  from  the  Chinese  or  indirectly  from  the  latter's  mort 
famous  disciples.  The  characteristics  of  Japanese  Buddtwt 
paintings  in  general  are  those  of  the  illuminated  miaBBlralich 
display  of  gold  and  of  glowing  but  harmonious  colors,  with  ooQ- 
ventional  drawing,  complete  absence  of  chtaroscuTo,  apparent 
errors  of  anatomy,  and  faithful  observance  of  traditional  typo. 
Japan's  best  artists  in  all  agee  contributed  their  quota  to  tta 
pictorial  treasures  of  the  temples,  and  not  until  after  the  12th 
cent,  did  the  secular  picture  rise  to  a  place  of  equal  impottaiiM 
with  the  sacred.' 

About  the  middle  of  the  10th  cent,  a  marked  differHwe 
began  to  be  noted  between  the  Japanese  secular  artists  and 
those  of  the  Chinese  religious  school,  and  a  native  school  call™ 
Yamaio-Tya  or  Waga-ryU  (synonsTnous  for;  'Japanese  9'J^62 
was  founded  by  Kasuga  fa  name  often  applied  to  the  Bohool) 
Molomitsu.  About  the  mi.dA\e  ot  ^he  VSth  <ient.  the  name  WM 
cianged  to  Toaa-ruH,  so  cal.\ed\ieca.iiEfcftifts?ftc\siw;K««^ 
tjve  of  the  academy  at  l\i.att,imela6A\«Bo.toraaTiA>i-j  'iis'a 


PAINTENQ 

of  Tom  ObMio-Mml.'  'ThenoeforUi  tferrdnadi  every  erm  tbe 
■aoewdvciartktoof  the sohool bore Uiefamiqr name  **To9a." 
jnheohanicteriideBcf  the  Toaa  mastere  woe  magodfioeiit  txxn* 
biiialaf»8  of  cokHV  and  remazkable  sldU  of  oompomtioii.  They 
may -be  called  deooraton  and  illustiratMB  rather  than  paintefs 
of  jHotnreB  as  the  term  is  generally  understood,  for  then:  best 
work  is  found  on  screens,  sliding  doors,  and  historical  ot  legen- 
daiy  scrolls.  As  historical  illustrators  they  are  peerless,  for  in 
■o  other  country  can  be  found  pictorial  annals  such  as  those 
with  which  they  enriched  Japan  during  the  12tii,  18tii,  and 
14th  centuries.  A  long  list  of  illustrious  names  belong  to  tibuat 
am,  culminating  in  wk  14th  cent,  with  Takaakima  Takehane. 
of  wh<»n  his  countrymen  allege  that  among  all  the  crowded 
scenes  oi  court,  camp,  and  domestic  life  depicted  on  his  scrolls, 
no  two  diow  the  same  grouping.' 

llie  Ko9e  school,  associated  with  Kanaohif  'subsequently 
eime  to  be  regarded  as  representins  the  Chinese  style,  the 
work  of  its  masters  being  in  maricea  accord  with  what  were 
known  as  classical  canons.  The  greatest  artist  of  the  Heian 
«Doch  (9tb-12th  centuries)  was  Hiratahd^  a  prince  of  the 
Mood  j  whose  paroductions  are  said  to  have  stooa  out  from  the 
flnvas  like  liying  pictures.  He  occupied  himself  chi^y  with 
niigious  subjects,  Tidiereas  two  other  masters  of  the  same 
4|K)di,  KvUaaa  and  Kimmocfdf  became  cel^irated  for  land- 
mpe  painting,  the  former  choosinp  Chinese  scenes,  the  lat- 
ter Ji^xmese.  Other  renowned  artists  oi  the  Kom  school  in 
die  same  epodi  were  Koreskiffe  and  Ncbuahige,*  Takuma 
Tamenarif  who  founded  a  branch  of  the  Kaae  school  in  the 
BiidcUe  of  the  11th  cent.,  followed  the  methods  of  the  Sunjg 
pi^t^^  of  China  and  carried  the  decorative  features  of  their 
n&gious  paintings  to  a  degree  of  unprecedented  splendor.  His 
ijteatest  work,  now  faded  beyond  recognition,  was  the  decora- 
tttn  of  the  walls  and  doors  of  the  Byddd^m  at  Uji,  the  subject 
being  the  9  circles  of  the  Buddhist  paradise  and  8  images  of 
Shdka,  To  tiie  Sung  artists,  whom  the  Ji4>aneBe  in  later  years 
eopied  witib  embarrasang  perfection,  mts.  were  a  passion,  ancl 
tteir  landscapes  as  portrayed  by  the  Nipponese  have  been 
dbuased  with  the  greatest  which  the  worla  has  seen.  They 
emated,  says  <me  critic,  transcripts  of  scenery  that  for  breadth, 
stmosph^^,  and  picturesque  beauty  can  scarcely  be  surpassed. 
TMmieally  thev  did  not  go  beycmd  the  use  of  water-colors. 
but  in  range  and  quality  of  pigments,  in  mechanical  command 
df  pencil,  they  had  no  reason  to  fear  comparison  with  their 
sontemporaries.  They  had  caught  only  a  glimpse  of  chiaro- 
Mirv  and  perspective,  but  the  want  of  science  was  counter- 
poted  l^  more  essential  elements  of  artistic  excellence.  No 
■■^^Ms  except  the  Chinese  and  Japanese  have  ever  infused  into 
<«HDeations  of  bird  life  one  tithe  of  the  vitality  and  actioiv 
native  portraiture  of  the  crow,  the  spanow,  \ibA 


ccxxvi  PAINTING 

crane,  the  nightingale,  and  a  hundred  other  varietieB  of  tlie 
feathered  race.  In  such  delineations  one  particularly  notes  the 
effort  of  the  artist  to  avoid  ^ving  full  expression  to  his  theme; 
suggestion  and  impressionism  were  aimed  at  deliberately. 
Wiui  the  old  masters,  who  assimilated  the  ideals  of  the  Chbiefle 
artists  with  extraordinary  versatility,  and  who  united  grandeur 
of  conception  with  power  of  execution,  fidelity  of  outline  was 
of  little  unportance  compaxed  with  reproduction  of  tibie  spirit 
of  the  object  painted.  They  cared  but  little  for  elaboration  of 
detail.  Except  in  Buddhist  pictures,  they  sought  their  best 
efforts  in  the  simpUcity  of  black  and  wmte,  or  in  the  most 
subdued  of  chromatic*  harmonies.  It  was  their  declaration  that 
they  did  not  paint  the  form  of  an  object,  but  the  soul  and  spirit 
of  it. 

The  qualities  and  characteristics  of  the  Kose,  Tctkuma^ 
and  Kdsugaf  or  Tosa  schools,  are  familiar  to  every  Japanese 
connoisseur.  The  painters  aimed  to  promote  religious  pur- 
poses; to  decorate  the  interiors  of  temples  or  psuaces,  and 
to  illustrate  scrolls  or  illuminate  missals.  In  the  12th  cent 
Minamoto  no  Kahayu,  a  celebrated  painter  of  religious  and 
secular  pictiu'es,  evolved  a  humorous  and  grotesque  style  of 
sketching,  referred  to  as  Toba-ye,  because  the  originate  was 
a  priest  of  the  Tdba  Monastery:  ^particular  emotions  were 
emphasized  by  exaggerating  the  part  of  the  body  affected  by 
them,  so  that  accuracy  of  drawing,  in  the  Occidental  sense  oi 
the  term,  became  a  secondary  consideration.'  He  had  a  host 
of  successors  in  every  age,  some  even  greater  than  himsdf. 
From  his  time  to  that  of  Hokumi  and  Kypsai,  the  Japanese 
humorous  painter  always  recognized  that  his  first  duty  was  to 
give  the  burlesque,  laughter-provoking  character  of  the  objects 
he  depicted  such  attention  that  if  he  succeeded  in  convejnliig 
a  strong  and  immediate  impression  of  that  character,  his  pur- 
pose was  accomplished,  even  though  his  lines  were  classically 
incorrect.  In  the  14th  cent.  Nipponese  art  reverted  to  its  old 
source  of  inspiration,  China;  the  movement  was  headed  by 
Josetsu  (a  Zen  priest  bom  in  China),  who  took  for  modds  tm 
masterpieces  of  the  Middle  Kingdom's  artists  at  the  close  of 
the  Sung  and  the  beginning  of  the  Yium  Dynasty  —  whence 
the  name  of  Sogen  (Chinese:  Sung-Yuan).  The  Japanese^ 
writes  Mr,  WiUiam  Anderson,  appreciated  the  fact  that  tl|6 
Clunese  artist  was  often  *  remarkably  felicitous  in  the  render- 
ings of  the  wilder  forms  of  picturesque  beauty  in  landscape. 
Silvery  cascades;  tranquil  pools  and  winding  streams;  towering 
silicic  peaks  and  rugged  headlands;  gnarled  fantastic  pines 
and  plum  trees,  side  by  side  with  the  graceful  forms  and  f eath-  j 
ery  foUage  of  the  bamboo;  mansions  or  pavilions,  gorgeous  in  J 
vermilion  and  pold,  crowning  the  heights  or  bordering  the. 
63cpanse  of  an  mland  lake,  and  rustic  cottages  with  strain 
thatched  roof  a  nestling  in  the  cultivated  valleys:  these  wen*. 


PAINTINQ  ittxvii 

ciemeAftB  that  the  piinter  oouki  aasort  and  leoonstaict  into  a 
thouooDd  piotoMs  ol  neVer-failing  interteet  and  beMity.  The 
Japanese  baizltecB  of  the  olasBioal  sohoc^  sedueed  bv  the 
ehann  of  the  foceign  ideal,  were  o£tmi  led  tO|nekleot  the  far 
miliar  attractioina  of  tbeir  own  soenerv,  and  without  having 
bdield  an^  of  the  BpotB  deleted  by  the  M  landscape  mas- 
ten  of  Ghma^  Bq^sunmaxd  an  infinity  of  talent  and  ingenuity 
in  building  up  new  oreationB  of  their  own  with  the  mataiaJ 
borrowed  at  second  hand  from  theiir  nei^dibors.' 

The  15&  cent,  is  regarded  as  one  ci  the  greatest  epochs  in 
Japanese  art,  sinoe  it  produced  Seaahu  (or  Oda  TSyo  — 1420- 
1506),  indubitably  tiie  greatest  painter  of  the  Middle  Ages; 
Maaanobu  and  Motonobu,  the  immortal  f oundos  of  the  great 
Kand  school;  and  the  masterful  SkuXmn,  who  for  years  was  the 
etuef  bonae  of  the  Sokcku^ji  at  KyOto,  and  a  scholar  of  the 
master  Joaeiau,  Seaaku,  a  Buddhist  bonze  who  studied  paint- 
ing in  China,  develcpea  a  peculiar  stvle  of  his  own,  'untram- 
mded  by^  daiwlqal  conditions.  He  acmered,  however^  to  Chi- 
Mse  motives  and  methods  as  faithfully  as  did  Shvbtm  (who  was 
often  oalled  T5  noShybun)  and  his  disciples,  and  no  dictum 
means  truer  than  that  Seaahu  was  ''the  open  door  through 
inuch  an  contemporary  and  subsequent  artists  looked  into  the 
SBventh  heaven  <£  Cmnese  gemus/'  In  the  work  of  all  are 
foand  the  noUe  breadth  of  design,  the  subtle  relationship  of 
tones,  the  splendid  oaUi|prat)hio  f oxoe  and  the  all-pervading 
^1  nose  of  poe<7y  that  oiHistituted  the  highest  fe^ 

^      pictorial  art  in  the  Tang,  Stmg,  and  Yuan  epochs.  For  all  true 
m  ...  i-  -  .       -    — 

:» 


the 


der 


appreciation  it  seems  -sufficient  to  say  that  the  15th  cent,  wajs 
the  culminating  period  of  Chinese  pictorial  art  in  Japan,  and 
that  its  giant  figures,  Skubuny  Seaahu,  Maaanobu,  and  Moto- 
ndbu,  though  thejr  stand  at  the  head  of  three  distinct  lines  of 
tttists,  drew  their  insiMration  from  the  same  source  and  set 
before  themsdves  the  same  ideals.  MotonoMa  masterpieces 
had  the  special  excellence  of  being  free  from  the  hard  outlines 
vliich  in  Seaahu*s  pictures  offend  against  natural  laws;  but  this 
iiqmority  is  partly  balanced  by  loss  of  vigor  and  massive- 


In  the  closing  years  of  the  16th  cent,  a  new  departure  was 
made  b^  two  laiaetB^oi  the  Kand  school ;  EUoku  and  Sanraku. 
Hie  rida  color-harmonies  and  gorgeous  illuminations  that  had 
.  bem  developed  so  elaborately  By  the  Tosa  masters  were  intro- 
^1  diieed  by  them  as  a  decorative  method  for  the  Kand  academies, 
^1  md  .^Moibti  cseaited  perhaps  ^the  greatest  purely  decorative 
iti^of  painting  that  the  East  has  ever  produced.  It  accurately 
nneetea  the  fashions  and  tendencies  of  the  time,  when,  imder 
tile  rule  of  the  Tidkd  Hideyoaki,  the  administrative  power 
"^        to  be  aaiaeiated  with  displays  of  imposing  magnificence, 
iMDi  sBtibetkdBm^  offidally  inspired^  found  espressioii  m 
^kkmjkKawiBn^^ieafftles,  templee,  and  palaoes,  and  m 


cxjxxviii  PAINTING 

the  construction  of  beautiful  parks.  On  the  walls  and  sl^ioS' 
doors  of  these  edifices,  Eitoku,  SanrakUf  and  their  fellowB  pro- 
duced pictures  glowing  with  gold  and  rich  color-harmomai. 
The  decorative  artists  that  preceded  them  had  used  the  pro* 
cious  metal  sparingly  for  picking  out  designs,  whereas  wsf 
employed  it  to  form  wide  fields  on  which  they  painted  episodes 
of  war,  phases  of  aristocratic  life,  or  subjects  taken  from  the 
kingdom  of  flowers  and  foliage,  the  ensemble  conveying  s 
suggestion  of  rich  gems  clustered  in  broad  areas  of  mmxw 
gold/  With  the  death  of  Eitoku  and  Sanraku  the  Kand  school 
lost  much  of  its  brilliancy,  but  it  was  revived  in  a  way  by  Kami 
Tan-yu  (1602-74),  an  indefatigable  worker  whose  paintiD09 
(many  in  black  and  white)  of  varying  quality  are  to  oe  found 
in  temples  and  museums  throughout  the  Empire.  While  sodqa 
of  them  are  of  a  nature  that  does  not  awaken  great  enthusiasm 
in  the  breast  of  the  foreign  critic,  the  Japanese  consider  ahnost 
anything  which  bears  his  name  the  acme  of  artistic  excellKtoe^ 
and  great  prices  are  paid  for  them.  He  enjoyed  great  favor 
with  certain  of  the  Tokugawa  shogunsy  and  lemitsu  gave  him 
groimd  near  the  Kajirbashiy  in  Yedo,  whereupon  to  establish 
his  school.  Kand  Tsunenohu  (1636-1713),  whose  works  the 
traveler  will  often  see  in  Buddhist  temples,  is  spoken  ^  as  the 
master  of  Ogata  Korin  (1661-1716),  who  studied  first  under 
him,  then  under  certain  masters  of  the  Tosa  school.  Before  his 
death  he  acquired  fame  as  one  of  the  greatest  exponents  d 
the  grotesque  in  Japan.  His  brother,  Ogawa  Keman  (16d3- 
1743),  became  one  of  the  most  renowned  of  Japanese  potterSy 
and  excelled  also  in  painting  and  poetry. 

The  Popular  School  (Ukiyo^e-ryu)j  as  it  has  been  called 
by  Western  critics,  or  school  of  genre  paintings,  is  believed  to 
have  been  founded  by  Iwasa  Matahei  (or  Domo  no  Matdbeii  — 
domo  means  a  stutterer),  a  painter  who  flourished  in  tiie  2d 
half  of  the  16th  cent.  About  this  time  *the  actor,  the  courte- 
san, and  the  geisha  began  to  occupy  an  unpreceaented  place 
in  everyday  life,  and  became  the  center  of  a  voluptuooi 
sestheticism  which  constantly  presented  new  spectacular  9^ 
tractions,  and  made  new  appeals  to  the  artistic  as  well  as  the 
sensuous  instincts  of  the  people.  Matahei  caught  the  first  note 
of  this  innovation  and  fixed  it  pictorially  with  wonderM 
fidelity.  The  figure-subjects  which  constitute  his  specialty  •!• 
instinct  with  refined  sensuality  and  graceful  abandon.  He 
introduces  his  public  to  a  life  where  dancing,  music,  and 
sybaritism  in  every  form  are  beginning  to  take  the  place  ol 
politics  and  war,  and  where  even  the  strong  contours  of  tht 
male  figure  show  a  tendency  to  mer^e  into  the  soft  curves  ef 
the  female.'  His  best  work  —  of  which  much  is  preserved  ii 
temples  and  museums  —  was  done  on  folding-screoiB;  hi 
delighted  to  picture  street  processions  and  depict  thereoi  A 
the  curious  facial  types  one  6ee&  in  a  crowded  Japanese  tfafli 


i 


PAINTING 

ookff ul  Court  flcente  aro  exoelleiit  ftooida  of 
lan,  and  they  exercise  a  strcmger  atti^ustkm  for 
.  mueh  of  the  so-called  finer  woiic  of  tbe  eariier 
nras  not  till  the  close  of  the  17th  oent.,  ndiea 
oroncbu  employed  the  art  of  wood-engrayiiig 
})ring  the  ukiy<Hye  (lit.  'floating  world')  within 
lasses,  that  the  Popular  school  began  really  to 
ortant  place,  and  to  associate  itself  directly  with 
1  al  the  chromo^lographs  which  are  now  the 
tern  collectors.  The  natural  tendency  of  which 
'  the  Popular  school  are  the  most  charaoteristio 
d  refined  and  beautiful  expression  in  the  works 
Ohyo  (1733^95),  founder  of  the  Maru^am(wytl 
to  as  the  Shi-jd  school,  from  the  Sfn^jd  distnot 
3d  one  of  the  greatest  painters  JuMm  evfx 
brce,  grace,  tenderness,  and  accuracy  of  line  Okifo 
Mr  among  Japanese  artists'.  He  wait  direct  to 
truction,  but  into  all  his  exquisite  pictures  of 
grasses,  fish,  insects,  quadrupeds,  and  fi^^ures 
a  subjective  element  as  eloquent  as  it  is  mde- 
h  the  exceptions  of  perhaps  Kand  Tan^yH,  no 
r  been  so  assiduously  copied  in  Japan  as  Ukyo. 
is  works  exist  in  hundrods,  but  the  orijnnals 
I  unapproachable.'  His  seascapes  are  ofraie 
xty;  ms  brushnstrokes  were  few  in  number,  but 
sunrise  views  along  the  Japanese  coast  were  his 
ig  line  of  surf  is  seen  tumbling  in  to  vou  from 
mist,  just  piercing  which  shows  the  blood-red 
ng  sun,  while  over  the  narrow  strip  of  breakins 
ranes  are  slowly  sailing  north.  And  that  is  aD 
do  not  see  the  shore;  you  do  not  see  the  main; 
;  but  at  the  border-land  of  that  great  unlmown. 
iean  still  slumbering  beneath  its  chilly  coverlid 
which  come  the  breakers,  and  the  sun,  ajid  the 
ri  Soaen  (1747-1821),  one  of  the  great  masters 
hool,  is  celebrated  for  his  paintings  of  the  native 
I  he  studied  in  nature  and  of  whose  habits  he  ac- 
lordinarily  intimate  knowledge.  Captain  Brink" 
>he  Landseer  of  Japan;  'though  his  fame  rests 
pictures  of  monkeys,  he  has  left  paintings  of 
rats,  of  hares  and  of  fishes  that  would  have  won 
mtation  even  without  his  remarkable  studies  of 
Kiahi  Doshiy  or  *  Gankuy^  who  was  the  contem- 
>,  and  who  died  in  1838,  is  often  placed  at  the 
rate  school  c^led  the  Ganku-ryU.  While  certain 
I  tank  hifti  with  the  great  masters  of  the  15th 
vies,  Occidentals  who  have  seen  his  painted 
U^)  will  be  indisposed  to  grant  him  any  lasting 
dfiM  he  never  saw  a  live  tiger,  and  hia  be^\a 


ccxxx  PAINTING 

bear  such  an  astonishing  likeness  to  certain  of  those 
Tan-^u  that  one  is  inclmed  to  believe  it. 

While  present-day  art  in  Japan  possesses  masters  of 
versatility,  it  is  marked  by  a  universality  and  a  sugge 
of  the  W®st  that  does  not  improve  the  Old  Japane 
Internationalism  is,  ip  fact,  taking  the  place  pf  the 
sages,  the  Chinese  landscapes  and  the  light  frivolity  < 
themes,  and  the  eclectic  and  refining  genius  of  tl 
native  artists  is  becoming  tinged  with  that  of  France 
the  chief  exponents  of  Occidental  art  receive  their  e 
The  sordid  tragedy  of  industrialism,  the  fact  that  the 
temples  are  no  longer  centers  of  learning  where  scholai 
can  devote  their  undisputed  time  to  the  portrayal  c 
beautiful  and  uplifting;  coupled  with  the  condition  th 
ese  artists  seem  to  be  wavering  in  their  confidence  in 
powers,  no  doubt  influenced  Baron  SuyematsUy  preside 
of  the  many  art  associations  in  Japan,  to  say  recently 
find  some  diflSculty  in  giving  good  encoiu-agement  to  tl 
from  the  fact  of  purchasers  not  being  found  in  suffici 
bers  at  the  art  exhibitions.'  There  is  no  lack  of  c 
Tokyo  where  men  with  high  ideals  are  striving  to  ke 
in  her  own  artistic  groove,  but  whether  the  native 
become  defective  by  contact  with  that  of  the  West  ii 
the  future  to  decide.  It  is  very  doubtful  if  Occidental 
will  leave  it  altogether  free  from  pruriency  and  neurc 
ment.  For  centuries  it  has  been  supreme  in  its  own 
many  art-lovers  hope  it  will  remain  so. 

Art  Collectors  may  wish  to  remember  that  a 
law  prohibits  the  expatriation  of  genuine  masterpie 
that  the  time  when  these  can  be  bought  for  a  song  hf 
The  Japanese  have  such  reverence  for  age  and  classic 
and  productions  that  many  of  them  will  pay  thousar 
for  a  painted  scroll  for  which  foreigners  would  be  un 

five  hundreds.  Also  that  workshops  exist  in  certair 
apan  for  the  exclusive  production  of  alleged  mat 
(see  Curios)  of  painting  (as  well  as  the  applied  arts), 
some  of  these  are  made  with  such  amazing  fideUt 
originals  that  even  native  connoisseiu^  are  often  de< 
craity  vendors.  Foreigners  should,  therefore,  be  st 
their  guard  when  making  purchases,  and  should  con 
dealings  to  men  of  known  repute.  The  remark  of  a 
connoisseiu*  that  *you  should  consider  every  paintinc 
to  you  by  a  dealer  as  a  forgery,  and  price  it  accorc 
perhaps  too  sweeping,  but  it  is  significant  of  the  fact 
ing '  has  developed  into  an  art  as  fine  as  paintine 
has  been  said  that  it  pays  a  painter  of  talent  mucn 
produce  a  close  imitation  of  a  tattered  and  grimy  oL 
and  to  forge  an  ancient  and  renowned  name  on  it 
paint  a  good  modem  picture  binder  his  own  name. 


COLOR-FRINTB 

^ei^Vrfiog  old  masters  is  at  all  tiiQte.lii  Togue,  then 
ho  doubt. 

vPrintSy  or  NishiH-ye  ('brocade  piotares'),  have  been 
'  among  the  Japanese  since  Oeddentats-diBoovered  their 
r  merits.  "The  Japanese  lay  no  claim  to  tiie  invention 
sprinting  as  a  process  of  wood-engraying.  Not  only 
ey  anticipated  by  the  Chinese,  from  whom  they  doubt- 
k  their  first  lessons,  but  the  16th  oeaat.  eamaieu  prints 
'  and  Germany  were  practically  identical  in  manner  ci 
m,  and  displajred  technical  merit  equal  to  that  ci  the 
panese  engravmgs;  but  nothing  yet  seen  in  Chmese  or 
an  chromoxylography  bears  any  comparison  in  point  of 
^th  the  low-priced  broadsides  of  Japan  in  the  last  half 
LSth  cent.  If  the  Japanese  were  not  the  (mgrnators  of 
,  they  were  by  far  its  best  e^^xments.  The  esati  date 
ariiest  chromoxylographic  prmts  still  remains  op^  to 
The  first  application  of  the  process  in  Japan  is  said  to 
iea  bv  Idzumiya  OonahirOf  near  the  ena  of  l^e  17th 
e  made  use  of  a  second  block  to  stamp  certain  parts  ci 
ign  with  henif  &  red  color  extracted  from  a  kind  of 
T.'  The  single-piece  picture  (ichimaiife)f  oft^i  call^ 
ictore,  was  maae  prior  to  this  time  by  many  artists  of 
tular  school  established  by  MaJtabeiy  but  tiie  black-and- 
rork  produced  in  the  cent,  following  was  less  popular 
9  broadsheets  colored  by  hafid  (with  a  profusion  or  red) 
roduced  by  Hishigawa  Moranobu  (1618-^4).  Thest^ 
[led  dkaycy  or  red  pictures ;  later,  when  lacqu^  and  gdd- 
re  used,  they  came  to  be  known  as  urushv'ye  or  lacquer- 
\  (made  first  by  Masanobu,  1690-1768).  The  first 
printing  in  color  (perhaps  in  1667)  was  apj^ed  to 
patterns,  a  red,  green,  and  blue  single  color  bemg  used 
i:  To  Tarii  Kiyanobu  (1664-1729)  are  ascribed  the 
tures  actualljr  printed  in  color;  these  were  pK)rhuits  of 
actors  and  pictures  of  various  subjects  of  interest  to 
goers  of  Yedo,  and  were  engraved  upon  three  blocks 
ited  in  pale  green  or  blue,  and  pale  pink.  They  origi- 
phase  of  popular  art  that  took  a  special  place  in  me 
I  the  people,  and  was  destined  to  undergo  great 
ment.  He  must  be  regarded  *  as  the  foimder  of  the 
al  school  of  popular  art,  for  no  theatrical  broadsides  of 
value  are  known  to  have  been  issued  before  his  time. 
,  moreover,  a  designer  of  playbills  and  of  illustrations 
quahit  little  novelettes  (heroic,  tragic,  or  humorous) 
unorzoshi,  which  were  published  in  considerable  num- 
jut  the  same  time,  and  he  is  said  to  have  been  the 
:  ci  the  style  of  stage  scenery  still  in  vogue  in  the 
oMfe  th^ters  of  T5ky6  and  KySto.  Few  of  the  pimtA 
f^'i|tt*b  have  been  preserved.  v. 

Wtiaid  Kmrokuj  a  native  of  Yedo  and  an  exgerl 


ecxxxii  COLOR-PRINTS 

wood-engraver,  devised  a  plan  of  printing  f roih  4  or  5 
blocks  in  different  colors,  by  the  use  of  registers,  but '. 
seems  to  have  been  confined  to  calendars,  and  it  was  Hi 
of  the  vkiyo^ye  painters,  who  had  the  same  means  ado 
his  work,  and  the  term  Adzwma  Nishiki-ye  ("brocade 
of  the  eastern  part ")  was  first  applied.  This  artist  d 
afterward,  JEind  Shunsko  was  the  next  to  become  distil 
for  his  drawings  for  color-printing.  The  artists  who  p 
the  pictures  used  for  color-prints  were  also  painten 
accepted  sense  of  the  word,  but  they  belonged  to  the  < 
people,  and  those  only  who  also  gained  recognition  I 
was  considered  orthodox  work  with  the  brush  were  regj 
worthy  the  attention  of  the  native  critics,  the  color-pi 
being  looked  upon  as  legitimate  art.  But  the  artists  fo 
work  remunerative,  and  consequently  there  were  ma 
gave  much  time  to  it,  and  by  whose  unusual  talents  i 
oped  characteristics  that  at  last  gained  for  it,  in  othe 
the  rank  it  merited.  After  the  nimiki-ye  was  assured  a 
nent  place  in  the  publisher's  profits,  and  after  the  bla 
white  and  brush-tinted  pictures  had  made  way  defini 
the  true  color-prints,  the  art  developed  rapidly.  Fi 
icMmai-ye  picture,  confined  to  a  regulation  size  becau£ 
difficulty  of  producing  larger  blocks,  it  grew  to  3  piece 
same  size,  forming  one  continuous  picture,  and  \a,U 
2  and  6  piece  pictures  being  unusual,  though  sometimet 
Chromoxylography  after  Kiyonohu  was  carried  on  by 
the  same  school,  including  Kiyomasu,  Kiyomitsu,  K 
Kiyoshige,  Nishimura  Shigenciga,  and  Ishikawa  Tc 
down  to  about  1765,  when,  imder  Svzuki  Harunobu  ai 
Kiyonaga  (of  the  Torii  school)^  who  lived  between  1' 
1815,  it  reached  its  highest  pomt.  With  Kiyonaga  w 
ciatea  Kiyotsunej  a  less  successful  disciple  of  the  sch< 
the  Tarii  line  closed  near  the  end  of  the  century  wit] 
mine.  The  blocks  employed  in  printing  were  gradu 
creased  to  7,  and,  although  in  later  times  as  many  as  3 
ings  were  required  to  complete  a  picture,  the  added  cor 
of  the  process  appeared  only  to  destroy  the  simple  cha 
in  the  prints  of  the  Toriis  and  KatsugawaSj  and  t. 
results  gained  when  the  number  did  not  exceed  that 
Kiyonaga  and  Harunobu,  The  colors  under  these  art! 
become  remarkably  tender  and  harmonious,  the  techi 
the  printing  had  advanced^  and  the  drawing  still  pi 
the  qualities  displayed  by  Kiyonohu,  and  gained  some 
style.' 

The  surinumOf  or  New-Year  cards,  which  came  into 
in  Yedo  in  the  last  quarter  of  the  18th  cent.,  are 
chromoxylography,  and  display  the  technical  resoiurce 
engraver  at  their  best.  They  are  usually  of  quarto  oi 
size,  printed  with  great  caxe  on  thick  creamy  paper, 


G0L0R-^PRINT8  MtfttH 

fidigns  b^  weU^mown  artists  of  tbe  l^apohr  mho6i,  and 

isooie  httle  ooncmt  in  the  form  of  a  yenidet  or  prairecb. 

Bstr  pmod  is  between  1800  and  1840.  About  uiis  time 

jhi^rahake,  or  panel  picture,  became  a  substitute  among 

ror  cdasses  for  the  more  expensive  kakemono. 

^BBeral  role  the  artists  were  not  oraf tsDden,  their  task  ending  with  the 
ad  eokxr  scheme.  'The  engraving  and  printing  were  doiw  eadi  Iqr 
I  artisans,  though  during  we  period  in  whii^  the  best  wtwk  was 
d.  the  artist  at  least  had  some  supervirion  over  the  mA.  On  tte 
nd*  the  engravers  were  artisans  only,  and  their  wwk  purdy  median- 
thiir  never  varied  in  the  least  partieular  from  the  designs  fimUied 
id  then,  as  now,  Ji^Mmese  wood-engravers  were  most  expert  in  exact 
Btkm.  But  the  engraver's  name  does  not  appear  on  the  produot  ef 
r,  he  being  merely  a  workman;  and  the  printer's  name  atmears  oo^ 
w&en  IJW  printer  was  also  the  publisher,  usually  a  bookseller,  whose 
I  often  used  on  the  prints  issued  by  him.  —  In  making  the  blooks 
ts  (usually  10  x  14  in.),  the  artist's  oiiidnal  drawing  was  used,  being 
m  what  was  to  beoome  the  key-blook,  face  downward,  to  seoure 
n.  the  paper  being  trani^Mtrent  for  the  purpose;  the  design  was  ean- 
Oinad  with  a  knife,  after  which  the  baokground  and  other  j^arta  were 
y  as  necessary,  giving  the  full  picture  in  outline,  from  whidi  ntools 
ide  fbr  sodi  parts  to  oe  cut  as  were  to  appear  in  different  <^iorB;  a 
one  eomer  mmI  at  the  c^posite  side  a  line  were  cut  for  registering. 
be  nuniber  of  blocks  were  finished,  they  were  sent  to  the  Qrintsi;s, 
wy  were  eachjgiven  to  as  many  workmen,  seated  on  the  floor  in  rowi; 
m  minted  in  one  color  by  the  first,  was  passed  on  to  the  next '  fbr 
,  au  adjusting  the  sheet  with  such  accuracy  as  to  produce  perfeet 

Hie  dry.  powdered  ofAar  was  mind  with  a  thin  rice  paste  upon  ib» 
ad  Bonaa  with  a  brush,  so  as  to  grade  the  tones;  or  it  was  wiped 
ie6fduu|  to  the  effect  desired.  A  toug^  mulbwry  paper  of  a  brown 
i»  una,  and  properly  dampened  b^ore  being  maced  on  the  cdk)i> 
pen  wmeh  it  was  iMtMsed  or  rubbed  bt  means  of  a  circular  pad  oov^ 
a  a  bamboo  sheath,  called  a  haren.  Sometimes  the  printing  ajao 
d  the  deidgn  slightly  embossed,  accomplished,  it  is  saia,  by  ruobing 

elbow.  The  blocks  upon  which  the  Migravings  are  cut  are  of  cherrsr- 
id  the  designs  are  cut  with  the  grain,  not  endwise  as  with  the  West- 
aving  on  boxwood  blocks.  The  outfit  for  an  engraver  consists  of  16 
nd  gouges  of  varying  sises.  3  mallets,  a  shari>ening-fltone,  rule,  and 
rhe  printer  has  a  kit  of  a  aosen  brushes,  a  chisel,  small  scraper  and 
ads,  or  baren.  The  following  natural  mineral  and  vegetable  colors 
)d:  yvJbana,  mastic  white;  tatsiUai,  silver  white;  nimi,  black;  benif 
red;  Mv,  vermilion;  taishot  red  brown;  toka^  dark  chestnut;  yamo- 
>ar  orange;  tamaqo,  clear  yellow;  ktua,  pale  green;  at,  dark  blue: 
russian  blue;  and  kuroehat  purple.  The  manufacture  of  the  natural 
ipidly  decreased  with  the  mtroduction  of  coal-tar  colors,  and  the 
ire  now  quite  difficult  to  obtain,  although  one  of  the  best  color-print 
n  of  to-day  claims  to  use  them .  They  faded  evenly  and  produced  a 
jOUS  result,  whereas  the  artificial  colors  seldom  do  so,  and  the  prints 
1  they  have  been  used  are  easily  recognisable  by  their  violent  hues.' 

Ipieatest  refinement  of  Japanese  wood-engraving  is  asso- 
with  the  name  of  Utamaro,  a  master  who  was  contem- 
ous  with  Yeishi  and  Toyokimi,  and  who,  along  with  the 
med,  became  famous  in  the  latter  part  of  the  18th  cent. 
,  as  well  as  Utamaro,  introduced  a  new  element  into 
i  id  the  people,  as  they  both  proceeded  from  the  aristo- 
Kan5  school,  which  had  been  trained  on  Chinese 
k  In  the  place  of  the  charming  daintiness  with  which 
liM.aDdowed  his  women,  and  t£e  healthy  fullneaa  tYuait 
fl^^Eilnfompa's  ample  Sgures,  we  now  meet  mtli  a 


cqapodv  COLOR^PRINTS 

refinement  in  stature,  carriage,  and  expression  wl^ids 
witness  to  a  general  change  in  manners  and  increased  de 
on  life,  resmting  in  a  modification  of  the  ideal  of  I 
Woman,  though  she  be  often  only  the  simple  woman 
peoole  or  the  coiurtesan,  continues  henceforth  to  play,  j 
eraUy  in  the  Japanese  art  of  the  18th  cent.,  and  in  ini 
heightened  measure  at  ihe  end  of  this  period,  the  chief 
pictorial  representations.  She  always  appears  as  a  pi 
tall  and  slender  of  figiire,  of  queenly  carriage,  and  a  gr 
nees  all  the  more  captivating  for  being  shy  and  reserv< 
be  sure,  this  tendency  soon  degenerates  into  exagge 
but  in  its  beginning  it  undoubtedly  served  to  enrich  th( 
of  art.'  (W,  von  SMlUz.)  Mr,  Anderson  ranks  Ki 
Utamaro  (who  was  a  pupil  of  Toriyama  SeHyen)  as  Hh< 
shining  light  of  Japanese  chromoxylography.  He  has  h 
albums,  both  distinguished  by  the  perfection  of  th< 
scheme.  One,  the  Momo  chidori  kioka  atoase,  consist 
pictures  of  birds  and  flowers  with  comic  verselets,  is  tech 
one  of  the  best  examples  of.  Japanese  color-printing,  ai 
be  noticed  also  for  the  bold  use  the  engraver  has  w 
uninked  blocks  to  produce  an  embossing  of  the  paper  s 
The  other,  The  Annvxd  of  the  Courtesan  Quarter  (180 
specimen  of  his  best  manner;  but  his  reputation  d 
mainly  upon  his  broadside  representations  of  women, 
have  remarkable  charm  of  line,  pose,  and  composition,  1 
effect  is  marred  by  the  ungraceful  mannerisms  pervert 
drawing  of  the  faces  and  limbs.  In  color  they  rank  i 
those  of  Harunohu  and  Kiyonaga.  Yeishi  was  also  cel( 
for  his  women,  and  his  best  work  was  done  between  18 
1815.* 

Katsushika  Hokusai^  who  with  his  successor  Hiroi 
perhaps  the  best  known  to  foreign  collectors,  and  who 
large  as  the  leading  figure  among  the  book  artists  dur 
firat  half  of  the  19th  cent.,  was  bom  in  Yedo,  March 
(d.  1849),  and  was  the  son  of  Nakajima  Ise,  a  Yedo 
maker  (to  the  Tokugawa  clan).  Although  few  men  pi 
more  important  part  in  the  history  of  Japanese  woooh 
ing  (owing  to  the  peculiarity  of  his  talent  and  the  in 
exerted  during  his  long  life  of  90  yrs.),  and  fewer  still  a 
greater  and  more  lasting  fame,  he  never  attained  to  the 
reached  by  Kikugatoa  Utamaro ^  who,  'for  vigor,  for 
tility,  for  tenderness,  for  truth  of  line,  and  for  beauty  o 
harmonies,'  stands  preeminent  among  the  brilliant  p 
and  decorative  artists  of  his  time.  While  his  work  —  j 
larly  in  the  portrayal  of  landscapes  and  animal  life  —  i 
superior  to  any  similar  work  produced  in  the  19th  cer 
marked  (and  marred)  by  a  realism,  in  perfect  accord  \ 
defective  intellectuality  and  his  lack  of  high  artistic  < 
tioB,  While  Japanese  critics  enjoy  the  wit  and  humor  of 


COLOR-PRINTS  ccxxxv 

if  his  flomewhat  Rabelaisian  figures,  they  prefer  the  delicacy 
){  HarufuAm  and  the  harmonies  of  Shunao  and  Toyokuni  the 
Mot. 

Authorities  differ  as  to  HokusaVs  activity  in  early  manhood : 
lome  maintain  that  he  did  nothing  of  importance  until  he  haa 
lassed  the  mid-point  of  any  ordinary  life,  while  others  say 
^t  at  12  yrs.  of  age  he  was  apprenticed  to  a  bookseller  and  at 
14  began  the  study  of  the  art  of  wood-engraving.  All  agree 
^hat  his  earliest  work  was  of  little  merit  —  a  point  which  col- 
lectors of  prints  may  wish  to  bear  in  mind.  In  1779  he  became 
I  pupil  of  Kaisukaioa  Shunso,  and  as  such  adopted  the  name 
of  KaisukatM  Shunro,  'He  painted  actors  and  theatrical 
seenes;  illustrated  from  1781  many  of  the  small  popular  books 
called  Kibiyoaki;  but  was  obliged  to  leave  his  master  in  1786. 
He  then  went  to  Kano  Yusen,  whom  likewise  he  was  soon 
obliged  to  leave.'  Between  the  years  1786-88  he  employed  the 
oame  Gymmatei,  and  later  adopted  the  native  custom  of 
changing  his  name  according  to  that  of  his  master  or  of  circum- 
stance. Dropping  the  name  KatsukoAvaf  he  signed  himself 
Shunro,  In  the  following  year  he  styles  himself  alternately 
Mugura Shunroy  Toshu,  TokUaro  Kako  (on  the  'Eight  Views  of 
Lake  Omi '),  and  Soriy  'as  pupil  of  the  painter  Tawaraya  Sort, 
whom  he  had  succeeded  about  1795.  This  name  he  later  gave 
lip  to  his  pupil,  Soji,  He  signed  himself  Tavoaraya  Hiakuriiv- 
ind  HokusaiSorif  and  under  this  name  issued  a  series  of  fine 
landscapes  in  large  oblong  format.  Before  the  end  of  the 
century  he  had  already  us^  the  name  Tokimasa  TaitOf  which 
be  assumed  again  later.  He  generally  called  himself  Katsu- 
thika  Hokusaif  from  the  precinct  of  that  name  in  which  he 
grew  up;  from  1800  he  often  signed  himself  Gwakiojin  HokiLsai. 
After  having,  about  1820,  given  up  his  surname  Taito  to  his 
3on-in-law,  he  often  signed  himself  litsuJ 

Like  the  immortal  Murillo,  Hokitsai  changed  his  manner 
several  times  during  his  life,  each  change  adding  to  his  growing 
reputation.  Aside  from  numerous  illustrations  for  books,  and 
designs  for  New- Year  cards  which  were  still  popular  in  Yedo 
during  the  early  years  of  the  19th  cent.,  he  supplied  some 
remarkably  fine  drawings  to  illustrate  the  novels  of  his  friend 
Bakin,  *In  1812  he  issued  the  first  volume  of  the  Mangwa, 
a  famous  collection  of  miscellaneous  sketches  for  the  use  of 
irtisans  and  students  of  drawing.  From  this  time  his  influence 
became  paramount  in  the  Popular  school,  and  in  the  period 
following  the  death  of  Toyokuni  he  was  the  dominant  power  in 
the  world  of  artisan  art.  He  is  perhaps  best  known  for  his  cele- 
brated *  Hundred  Views  of  Fuji,'  and  for  the  Mangwa  men- 
tioDed  above.  So  great  was  his  fame  for  versatility  and  ongm- 
ibtr  i^^  wJi^o  ^c  died  his  withdrawal  marked  the  beginmn^ 
'ri^J^SL^i  /'^pw/sr  school.  Hia  mastery  of  landscape 
^/f^ffuiv  drawing  was  so  perfect   that  no  one  could  weM 


ccxjOKviii  IVORY 

of  the  groups  and  figures  are  carved  with  such  amazing  ddll 

and  possess  such  an  appealing  beauty  that  as  much  as  10,000 

yen  are  sometimes  paid  for  them.  Not  unfrequentlv  one  nnds 

sets  of  the  remarkaole  ivory  balls  containing  10  or  12  separate 

spheres  one  within  another  —  a  delicate  and  marvelously 

ingenious  device  for  which  the  Cantonese  craftsmen  have  long 

been  noted.  They  are  usually  so  puzzling  to  foreigners  that  the 

manner  of  cutting  them  is  not  without  interest. 

*  A  piece  of  ivory  is  first  made  perfectly  globular,  and  then  several  ooniod 
holes  are  bored  into  it  in  such  a  manner  that  their  apices  all  meet  at  the 
center,  which  becomes  hollow  as  the  pierforations  are  made.  The  sideB  ol 
each  having  been  marked  with  lines  to  indicate  the  number  of  globes  to  bt 
cut  out,  the  workman  inserts  a  chisel  or  burin  with  a  semicircular  blade,  bent 
so  that  the  edge  cuts  the  ivory,  as  l^e  shaft  is  worked  on  tJie  pivot,  at  tht 
Bame  depth  in  each  hole.  By  successively  cutting  a  little  on  the  inaide  of  eaeh 
<;onical  hole,  the  incisures  meet,  and  a  sphericle  is  at  last  detached,  which  is 
now  turned  over  and  its  faces  one  after  another  brought  opposite  the  la^gtii 
hole,  and  firmly  secured  by  wedges  in  the  other  apertures,  while  its  siufaeM 
are  smoothed  and  carved.  When  the  central  sphere  is  done,  a  Mipilar  toolt 
somewhat  larger,  is  again  introduced  into  the  holes,  and  another  sphere 
detached  and  smoothed  in  the  same  way,  and  then  another,  until  the  whfM 
is  completed,  each  being  polished  and  carved  before  the  next  outer  one  it 
commenced.  It  takes  3  or  4  months  to  complete  a  ball  with  15  inner  stobeti 
the  price  of  which  varies  according  to  the  delicacy  of  the  carving.  Some 
writers  have  asserted  that  these  curious  toys  were  made  of  eeinkpherei 
nicely  luted  together,  and  they  have  been  boiled  in  oil  for  hours  in  order  to 
separate  them  and  solve  the  mystery  of  their  construction.' 

The  best  and  most  valuable  ivory  comes  from  Slam,  and 
despite  the  fact  that  the  Siamese  elephant  belongs  to  the 
species  known  as  Elephas  indicus,  its  dentine  or  tooth-sub* 
stance  is  considerably  finer  and  more  regular  in  texture  than 
that  of  its  Indian  brother,  and  more  costly.  The  tusks  are 
heavier  (in  proportion)  than  those  of  either  the  Indian  or  the 
(second  and  only  additional)  African  species  {Elephaa  or 
Loxodon  africanu8)y  the  highest  grade  being  easily  recognisable 
not  only  hy  an  unusual  compactness  and  solidity,  but  also  by 
liie  excessive  fineness  of  the  contour-lines  which  show  on  a 
cross-section  of  a  tusk.  The  quick  eye  will  also  note  a  decided 
pinkish  tinge,  particularly  in  a  newly  carved  object  that  has  not 
been  stain^  artificially.  After  long  exposure  to  light  this  tint 
fades  to  a  faint  yellow,  then  gradually  takes  on  a  soft  brown 
glow,  which  is  so  prized  that  cheap  ivories  are  often  subjected 
to  a  special  treatment  to  produce  it.  Both  the  Indian  luid 
African  ivory  are  milk-white,  of  coarser  grain,  and  ther^ore 
inferior;  of  the  two  the  African  is  the  better.  When  first  cut,  it 
is  semi  transparent,  and  is  then  known  as  *  green  ivory.'  When 
dry,  it  is  lighter  and  more  opaque.  Expert  collectors  usually 
prefer  the  Siamese  ivory,  not  only  because  of  its  intrinsic 
worth,  but  also  because  a  much  finer  expression  can  be  obtained 
by  the  artist  when  carving  it.  It  also  takes  a  fine  polish,  — 
the  lack  of  w,hich  is  often  a  good  proof  of  origin  ana  quality. 
The  world's  annual  output  of  ivory  (most  of  which  comeB£roni 
Equatorial  Africa)  is  between  ^QO  axvd  600  tons,  llie  IttiMl 


IVORY  ccxxxix 

African  tusks  (sometimes  9  ft.  long,  and  weighing  100-160  lbs.) 
are. generally  bought  (at  the  quarterly  sales  held  in  London) 
for  the  American  market,  where  50%  of  the  importations  are 
used  in  making  piano-k^.  The  best  bring  about  $350  per 
cwt.  The  Indian  tusks  rarely  weigh  more  than  50  lbs.,  and  the 
Siamese  still  less.  The  bulk  of  the  ivory  used  by  the  Japanese 
passes  through  the  hands  of  Chinese  aealers.  Walrus  ivory, 
which  is  bou^t  in  the  Indian  market,  is  inferior  to  elephants' 
tusks  (or  incisors) ;  the  canines  are  rarely  over  2  ft.  long  (thev 
cost  about  a  third  as  much  as  Siamese  or  African  ivorv),  with 
little  or  no  grain,  and  to  form  any  carving  of  magnitude,  num- 
bers of  sm^  pieces  must  be  fastened  together.  As  it  is  usually 
a  dirty  white  and  easily  distinguishable  from  superior  ivory, 
it  is  generally  stained  before  being  sold.  Tastes  differ  in  the 
matter  of  stain]  some  prefer  the  rich  creamy  brown  color 
obtained  by  boihng  the  article  in  the  juices  of  the  Yasha  tree, 
while  othan  demand  the  pure  white  product.  To  take  the 
stain  properly,  ivory  must  nrst  be  polished,  and  it  is  then  more 
easily  Kept  clean.  The  white,  unpolished  surface,  though  appar- 
ently smooth,  is  nevertheless  rough,  and  it  holds  dirt  readily. 
The  disadvantage  in  buying  stained  ivory  lies  in  the  difficultv 
of  determinii^  quality.  In  addition  to  walrus  ivory,  the  teeth 
of  sperm  whues,  the  lamantin  or  manatee^  and  other  phocine 
animals  are  used,  along  with  great  quantities  of  bone  (often 
of  deer). 

Beautiful  additions  to  ivory  groups  are  made  by  employing 
finely  stained  cherry-wood  (aakura)^  or  carefully  polished, 
silky-surfaced  boxwood  (tsugejj  to  form  the  body  of  a  man  with 
an  ivory  head,  hands,  and  feet,  or  some  similar  conceit.  The 
latter  wood  (better  than  the  cherry)  is  often  used  in  the  manu- 
facture of  netmke,  and  is  surprisingly  effective.  As  ivory 
grows  brittle  with  age,  and  as  it  then  shows  a  tendency  to  chip 
in  concentric  layers  when  struck  with  hammer  or  chisel,  it  is 
generally  carved  in  a  green  state.  For  this  reason  some  care  is 
necessary  to  prevent  unseasoned  ivories  from  cracking.  Expert 
manipulators  and  trustworthy  manufacturers,  aware  that 
ivory  shrinks  more  rapidly  in  width  than  in  length,  shape  up 
fine  and  expensive  objects  in  the  rough,  then  set  them  away 
for  a  year  or  two  (or  work  on  them  at  long  intervals)  in  a  room 
with  a  uniform  temperature  that  is  neither  too  hot  nor  too  cold, 
before  putting  the  finishing  touches  on  them.  Many  months 
are  sometimes  required  to  complete  a  fine  figure  or  a  compli- 
cated group.  The  cement  which  coats  a  tusk  in  its  natural 
state  is  first  scraped  off,  then  a  chisel  and  hammer  are  used  on 
it,  and  finally  it  is  cut  and  scraped  with  sharp  knives.  The 
workmen  (many  of  whom  are  sharp-sighted  boys)  squat  before 
low  benches  on  which  a  good  light  shines,  and  work  on  the 
ol>ject  which  they  hold  between  their  prehensile  feet.  T\i^ 
cihipB  are  saved^  ior  When  properly  calcined  in  a  closed  >7^aac\ 


ccxl  WOOD-CARVING 

they  furnish  a  fine  soft  black  pigment  known  as  ivory-blaeki 
used  in  oil  and  water-colors  and  as  an  engraving  ink. 

A  good  ivorist  must  also  be  an  expert  sculptor  in  wood,  ai 
well  as  a  modeler  in  clay,  for  models  (or  pencil  drawings)  of 
the  finest  figures  are  always  made  first  in  one  of  the  two 
mediums;  even  more  skill  is  shown  in  their  fashioning  than  in 
the  carving  of  the  ivory  itself,  for  this  must  necessarily  be  an 
absolutely  faithful  copy  of  the  model.   The  plastic  nature  of 
the  clay  (the  medium  most  in  use)  makes  a  change  of  expres- 
sion possible  at  the  last  moment,  but  no  such  change  can  be 
made  after  the  tusk  is  carved.  These  clay  figures  are  as  beimti- 
ful  in  a  way  as  the  ivory  ones,  in  the  manipulation  of  which 
exquisitely  delicate  instruments  of  precision  are  used  con- 
stantly to  insure  proportions  that  will  not  offend  the  artistio 
eye.  Extreme  care  is  necessary  when  a  complicated  or  costly 
piece  is  being  manufactured,  as  a  slip  of  the  chisel,  a  sin^ 
false  stroke,  or  a  deep  incision  can  alter  an  expression  and  ruin 
the  artistic  character  of  the  work.  As  this  advances,  all  that 
part  of  the  ivory  figure  upon  which  the  artist  is  not  engaged  is 
swathed  in  cloth  or  paper  to  protect  it  from  draughts  of  cold 
air.    As  it  is  manifestly  impossible  to  carve  certain  bulky 
groups  out  of  a  single  tusk,  the  pieces  are  carved  separately 
and  (in  the  best  work)  are  put  together  with  hidden  metal 
screws,  or  bolts  and  nuts.  Ivory  plugs  or  dowels  expand  under 
heat  and  contract  with  cold,  and  thus  imperil  the  pieces  In 
which  they  are  used.    Apprentices  who  do  the  prelimhiary 
rough  work  earn  from  50  sen  upward  a  day,  while  expert 
modelers  and  carvers  get  as  much  as  20  yen  a  day.   Several  of 
the  most  skilled  of  the  modern  craftsmen  work  in  the  atdien 
of  Toyama  d:  Co.,  at  Tokyo,  where  specimens  of  ihe  finest 
ivory-carvings  produced  m  Japan  may  be  seen    (Englidi 
spoken,  visitors  welcome)  in  the  making.   The  work  is  weU 
worth  seeing,  particularly  that  of  the  young  and  promising 
artist,   Homei    Yoshida,  whose  skillful  manipulations  6i  the 
difficult  medium  excite  admiration.  —  Collectors  of  ivories 
may  wish  to  remember  that  draughts  of  cold  air  and  suddra 
temperature  changes  are  destructive  to  the  finest  pieces.  When 
subjected  to  excessive  heat,  improperly  seasoned  ivory  ciacki 
hke  unseasoned  furniture.  It  keeps  best  in  an  equable  tempora- 
ture  anywhere  between  40°  and  60°  F.  If  this  cannot  be  main- 
tained, the  pieces  should  be  kept  in  a  closed  cabinet  or  case 
along  with  a  sponge  filled  with  water.  This  will  prevent  crack- 
ing. Cracks  are  more  apt  to  occur  in  hollow  pieces,  or  in  thosa 
where  the  calcified  pulp  is  soft.  By  making  purchases  of  reput- 
able dealers  only,  travelers  can  avoid  many  of  the  pitfalls  pre- 
pared for  them  by  unscrupulous  men  who  sell  inferior  stuflTaad 
guarantee  it  to  be  the  best. 

Wood'Carvingf  or  kirno-horp-monoj  has  been  popular  wftk 
the  Japaneae  since  the  first  BC;\3\v\.\a%d  B.Mddmat  idol 


WOOD-CARVINO  oczU 

trought  from  Korea  in  the  6th  cent.  Thenoe  onward  many 
f  the  native  craftsmen  devoted  their  extraordinary  talent  to 
he  fashioning  of  MokvbiUsu  (a  wooden  image  of  Buddha)  or 
>ther  saints  of  the  Buddhist  pantheon.    During  the  Nara 
ipoch  (8th  cent.)  sculpture  in  wood  and  bronze  was  elevated 
o  a  fine  art,  and  in  the  11th  and  12th  centuries  Japan  pos- 
lessed  (in  Jdcho  and  his  descendant  Unkei)  sculptors  in  wood 
it  to  taJ^  rank  with  any  that  the  world  had  produced  up  to 
that  time.  Jocho's  genius  (inherited  direct  from  his  talented 
[ather  Kdsho)  made  the  beginning  of  the  11th  cent,  one  of  the 
most  notable  epochs  of  Japanese  sculpture.  His  descendants 
ftnd  chid^  pupils  are  often  referred  to  as  the  Nara  Busahi,  or 
'Buddhist  sculptors  of  Nara/  as  well  as  Masamune  no  Buaahi, 
the  prefix  Masamune,^  being  intended  to  indicate  that  they 
exhibited  as  sculptors  talent  not  inferior  to  that  of  Masamune. 
as  a  swordsmith.^  The  many  superb  carvings  in  wood  executed 
^  the  left-handed  Hidari  Jingord  at  the  mausolea  of  the 
Tohugaxva  shoguns  at  Nikko  and  at  Shiba  in  the  17th  cent., 
spurred  his  successors  to  renewed  efforts,  and  not  a  little  note- 
worthy work  was  done  between  his  death  in  1635  and  the 
itstoration  of  the  Mikado  to  his  ancestral  rights  in  1868.  The 
poUticcd  tmrmoil  which  marked  this  transcendental  epoch^  the 
opening  of  the  country  to  Occidental  civilization,  the  disen- 
dowment  of  Buddhism  and  the  consequent  diminution  in  the 
ooQBtruction  of  gorgeous  temples,  deprived  many  of  the  native 
sculptors  of  graven  images  of  the  means  of  practicing  their 
handicraft.  As  a  compensation,  however,  there  arose  a  steady 
forei^  demand  for  a  host  ot  sculptured  things,  from  the 
exauisite  little  ivory  or  wood  netsukes  to  curio-cabinets,  chests, 
ana  the  like  to  decorate  Western  homes.  The  marvelous  sldli 
with  which  the  native  carvers  fashion  the  fine  tables,  cabinets, 
chairs,  and  what-not  from  the  native  woods,  appeal^  directlv 
to  foreigners,  and  the  demand  for  this  brancn  of  art  work 
grows  apace. 

Neither  teak  nor  rosewood  ^ows  in  Japan  and  little  or  no 
furniture  is  made  from  them.  The  rosewood  cabinets  (see  For- 
Hum)  one  sometimes  sees  in  the  shops  are  imported,  and  they 
geuerally  advertise  their  origin  by  the  Chinese  designs  carved 
on  them.  Unless  they  are  well  made,  they  are  apt  to  come 
Vj^eirt  in  steam-heated  homes,  and  then  they  are  difficult  to 
mend,  as  the  grain  of  the  wood  is  so  close  that  it  absorbs  glue 
iJBluctantly.  Whenever  a  (so-called)  rosewood  cabinet  or  the 
like  carries  Japanese  ornamentation  (readily  distinguished 
from  the  Chinese),  it  is  of  home  manufacture  and  is  apt  to  be 
made  of  keyaki,  or  mulberry-wood  —  which  is  fairly  hard  and 
darkens  with  age.  Many  unscrupulous  dealers  palm  off  soft 
native-wood  furniture  on  imsuspecting  foreigners  for  teak. 
SSraTdeiB  unacquainted  with  the  salient  characteristics  oi  \>\)la 
ffiqd.  (med  largely  for  ships' decks)  may  like  to  remember  thai 


ccxlii  WOOD-CARVING 

the  E.  Indian  teak  (Burma,  Siam,  India,  etc.)  is  of  a  yellowidh 
brown  color,  straight-grained,  hard,  and  similar  in  appearance 
to  oak  or  hickory.  Unlike  oak  it  does  not  corrode  the  iron 
which  is  sometimes  used  in  connection  with  it.  Much  of  the 
furniture  imported  from  China  and  sold  in  the  curio-storeB  is 
made  of  bastard  teak  (the  E.  Indian  Pterocarpus  Marsupitm)^ 
the  brown  heartwood  of  which  shows  dark  streaks  (usually 
stained  over) ;  is  very  hard  and  durable,  and  takes  a  fine  polidi' 
Other  pieces  (usually  tables,  stands,  and  chairs)  are  made  of  the 
so-called  Chinese  ebony,  or  blackwood.  In  bujdng  this,  look 
carefully  to  the  joints  to  see  if  they  are  filled  in  with  sndlae. 
Splendid  specimens  of  the  very  desirable  old  Canton  carved 
work  can  sometimes  be  found  in  the  curio-shops. 

Furniture  for  foreign  trade  is  customarily  made  in  small 
workshops  maintained  by  the  large  curio  establishments,  or  ia 
home  workshops  whose  output  is  bought  by  them.  In  the  caac 
of  the  former  the  wood  is  almost  sure  to  be  of  better  quatit^T 
and  better  seasoned.  In  the  finer  grades  the  reddish,  compact^ 
soft,  close-grained,  easily  carved  inner  wood  of  the  yama^ 
sakwdLf  or  mountain  cherry,  is  used.  It  takes  an  easy  and  oftea 
beautiful  polish^  and  is  employed  widely  for  carvings,  and  for*' 
blocks  in  printmg  cloth  and  wall-paper.    Althou^  the  treer 
grows  wild  in  the  forests  all  over  Japan,  the  demand  for  th^' 
best  wood  makes  it  relatively  expensive,  and  cheaper  materials 
are  not  imfrequently  used  by  small  dealers  and  others.   Ther 
tough,  elastic  and  durable  keyaki  enters  largely  into  the  manu-' 
facture  of  small  work,  and  is  sometimes  employed  for  cabinets^^ 
etc.  In  having  cherry-wood  chairs  or  the  like  made  to  order, 
remember  that  seats  made  of  keyaki  are  much  stronger  and  les^ 
liable  to  crack  than  those  made  of  softer  wood.   Insist  also 
that  wood  dowels  be  used,  instead  of  wire  nails,  when  putting 
pieces  together.  Metal  tenons  have  to  be  sawed  throu^  when 
repair  work  is  done  and  the  furniture  is  apt  to  be  mutilated. 
The  camphor-wood  chests  successfully  keep  out  moths.  Most 
of  the  bamboo  furniture  cracks  and  warps  in  the  American 
climate.  The  large  curio-cabinets  are  usually  made  collapsible, 
and  ocean  freight  is  thereby  saved.  Not  a  little  of  the  furniture 
used  in  Japanese  houses  is  made  of  the  wood  of  CercidiphyUwn 
japonicum  ( Katsura)  of   the   MagnoliacecBf  a  beautum  tree 
which  grows  in  the  mt.  forests  of  the  Empire.  Numerous  smidl 
articles  are  carved  from  the  wood  of  a  curious  little  tree  (the 
AUnzzia  Jtdibrissin  or  silk-tree,  allied  to  the  Acacia)  called 
NemTirno-ki  ('sleeper')  from  the  circumstance  that  its  leaves 
are  very  sensitive  and  that  it  is  said  to  sleep  during  the  nii^i 
It  is  found  all  over  Japan  and  is  thought  to  have  been  intro- 
duced from  N.  India.  The  wood  is  yellow,  with  a  dark-brown 
core;  hard  and  strone,  and  easy  to  polish.  The  dark  red  sandal" 
wooa^  of  the  tropicsl  monsoon  district  belong  also  to  this  fam- 
ily,  —  It  remains  to  be  said  t\MA,  can^  Ixmuture  should  be 


\ 


LAOQUER-WORK  fsia^n 

ag][it  only  of  tnustworthy  dealers,  not  only  in  order  to  fot 
llnieasoned  wood  and  correct  prices,  but  to  insure  its  being 
sked  so  that  it  will  endure  a  long  ocean  voyage. 

[#acquer-Woik  undoubtedly  occupies  first  place  in  the  vari- 
3  branches  of  Japanese  art  industry,  and  so  widespread  is 
i  fame  of  the  vaniish  or  lacquer  employed  in  the  work  that 
panned'  or  'to  japan'  (or  lacquer)  long  since  became 
Tent  in  the  Engu^  laiwiage.  The  art  of  lacquer  manu- 
ture  came  from  China,  but  in  none  have  the  .Japanese  so 
ickly  disengaged  themselves  from  their  Chinese  masters  and 
sterns  and  stood  more  independently,  and  in  no  other  have 
jy  won  such  world-wide  renown.  In  scarcely  any  other 
tnch  of  their  industry  is  the  employment  and  use  of  the  raw 
.terial  so  varied,  the  purposes  and  excellence  of  the  articles 
serves  to  adorn  so  manifold,  as  in  the  case  of  lacquer-work, 
i  the  industry  which  gives  it  value.  The  great  sui)eriority 
the  wares  is  not  only  the  result  of  several  excelleht  proper- 
3  of  the  peculiar  lacquer  (practically  a  ready-made  product 
nature),  out  is  also  based  on  the  careful  manner  in  which  it 
used.  Japanese  articles  of  this  kind  are  distinguished  by 
^ter  lightness  and  elegance  of  appearance;  by  their  solidity. 
i  the  beauty  and  spirit  of  their  decorations,  and  by  several 
ry  valuable  elements  in  the  material  itself.'  In  hardness  the 
quer  varnish  far  excels  all  others;  when  carefully  laid  on,  its 
iTOUS,  mirrorlike  surface  offers  a  determined  resistance  to 
my  agencies  which  destroy  ordinary  resinous  lacquer 
mish.  It  is  not  injured  by  boiling  water,  alcoholic  liquids, 
even  acid  (when  cold). 

^thou^  historians  aver  that  the  art  of  lacquer-making  was 
icticed  in  Japan  as  far  back  as  the  3d  cent,  before  Christ, 
is  more  than  likely  that  it  came  to  Japan  from  China  along 
th  Buddhism  and  the  many  arts  this  religion  brought  in  its 
dn.  The  first  manufactures  in  Japan  were  plain  black,  and 
3se  were  followed  in  the  8th  cent,  by  objects  ornamented 
th  gold-dust  and  mother-of-pearl.  Landscapes  and  religious 
mes  were  added  to  the  range  of  motives  in  the  10th  cent., 
d  authenticated  specimens  of  12th-cent.  work  show  human 
ures,  birds,  flowers,  and  the  Uke.  About  this  time  lacquer 
gan  to  be  used  as  a  decorative  medium  for  the  interiors  of 
nples,  and  in  the  13th  cent,  the  artists  acquired  increased 
ill  in  the  portrayal  of  tasteful  and  delicate  landscape  and 
ber  designs.  During  the  Kamakura  epoch  vermilion  lacquer 
us  first  applied  to  objects  having  their  wooden  surfaces 
rved  in  diapers  or  arabesques.  Captain  Brinkley  concludes 
at  this  work  (called  Kamakurorbori,  or  Kamakura  carving) 
18  suggested  by  the  red  lacquer  of  China  which  has  designs 
t  in  ffle  lacquer  itself.  *That  development  was  the  producr 
ib  ol  what  is  called  taka-makiye  flacquer  in  relief).  mt\ieT\jQ 
tlMB  had  confined  themselves  to  hira-makiye  (flat  lacqvier^, 


ccxKv  LACQUER-WORK 

or  lacqu^  having  the  decorative  design  in  the  same  plane  tf 
the  ground.  Experts  now  undertook  surface  modeliiu;  in  the 
lacquer  itself,  and  the  art  reached  a  point  of  high  devefopment 
in  the  time  of  the  Shogun   Yoshimasa  (1449-90).   fYom  this 
era  the  takamakiye  became  famous,  and  has  since  constituted 
one  of  the  distinctive  features  of  Japanese  lacquer.   It  is  not 
found  in  the  lacquers  of  either  China  or  Korea.   With  it,  in 
that  respect,  may  be  classed  aventurine  lacquer,  called  "neju> 
ground    or  nashv-ji^  which  has  never  been  produced  elsewiian. 
Nashi-ji  may  be  aescribed  as  a  surface  presenting  the  appea^ 
ance  of  golden  sand  pervaded  by  a  faint  glow  of  russet  brown.' 
In  the  16th  cent,  the  expert  lacquerer  began  to  rank  with  the 
pictorial  artist  or  the  sculptor.  The  rapidly  growing  demand 
for  fine  work  in  architectural  decoration  raised  the  standard  of 
skillj  and  the  Haste  of  the  time  found  expression  in  a  new 
fashion  introduced  by  Anami  Koyetsu  (1590-1637),  of  whidi 
the  characteristic  features  were  remarkable  boldness  of  deco- 
rative design,  free  use  of  conventionalized  forms,  and  the 
employment  of  gold,  silver,  lead,  and  mother-of-pearl  in  sc^ 
masses.  This  style  received  fuller  development  at  the  hands  of 
OgcUe  Kdrin,  wno  is  remembered  as  one  of  the  greatest  deoo* 
rative  artists  of  the  17th  cent.'  The  period  of  greatest  brilliano^ 
in  the  art  was  during  the  time  of  the  splendor-loving  Shdffi» 
Tokugawa  Tsunayomi  (1681-1709)  —  *  that  famous  era  of 
GenrokUf  memorable  for  so  much  that  was  bad  and  so  much 
that  was  good  in  Japanese  civilization.'  Gold  lacquer  articta 
of  this  period  are  veritable  masterpieces,  in  the  irmTHng  of 
which  a  workman  was  often  engaged  for  years,  and  wEoee 
ornamentation  was  performed  with  surprising  patience,  cue. 
fineness,  and  truth  to  nature.  The  great  artistic  perfection  oi 
many  of  the  pieces  (excellent  examples  in  the  Okura  Muaeutu 
at  Tokyo)  is  equaled  only  by  the  richness  of  the  gold  ezaplofed 
in  the  decorations.    '  Not  only  did  the  universal  popularity  of 
the  tea-clubs  and  the  incense-cult  create  a  keen  aemand  for 
the  finest  work,  but  also  the  interior  decoration  of  the  mauflolea 
at  Shiba  Park  and  Nikko  offered  an  unprecedented  field  for 
the  art.  In  these  mausolea  are  to  be  found  the  most  splendid 
applications  of  lacquered  decoration  that  the  world  has  ever 
seen,  nor  is  it  at  all  likely  that  anything  on  a  comparable  soJe 
of  grandeur  and  beauty  will  ever  again  be  produced.    Many 
exquisite  examples  of  lacquer  are  to  be  found  in  inro  produced 
durinp  the  Tokugawa  times.  Owing  to  its  small  size  and  com- 
parative cheapness  the  inro  is  a  favorite  with  foreign  collectoiBi 
and  numerous  specimens  of  great  beauty  are  among  the  ttetr 
sures  of  European  and  American  art-lovers.  It  shares  with  the 
netsvke  the  charm  of  offering  an  almost  unlimited  field  of 
decorative  motives,  — ;  landscapes  copied  from  great  painteili 
incidents  from  daily  life,  from  history,  and  from  mythokMK^i 
birdb  and  insectB  of  every  description,  and  innumerable  atuaiBl 


LACXiUER-WORK  ccriv 

STB  and  foliage.  Almost  all  the  renowned  lacqueren 
3  16th  cent,  downwards  occupied  themselves,  ocoasiiMir 
th  the  making  of  inro* 

the  b^inning  of  the  18th  cent,  the  Giyd-bu  Naahirji 
after  Uiyo-bu  Taro,  an  influential  lacquerer  in  Yedo, 
aethod  was  largely  tollowed)  was  added  to  the  former 
>f  decoration;  it  consisted  in  laying  small  squares  of 
I  on  the  pictured  trunks  of  trees,  on  the  raised  oanks  of 
,  to  represent  diminutive  paving-stones,  etc.,  —  a 
me  and  costly  mode  of  ornamentation  often  seen  in  the 
£  and  greatly  prized  by  the  Japanese.  Native  collectors 
fact,  pay  almost  fabulous  sums  for  fine  pieces  of  old 
(juer,  the  hoarding  of  which  is  a  cult  with  many.  Fine 
is  costly  enough  as  it  is,  for  the  work  demands  not  only 
dll,  patience,  and  the  expenditure  of  time,  but  expen- 
terials  as  well.  While  ordinary  lacquer  is  produced  in 
arts  of  the  Empire,  some  of  the  most  skilled  artists  and 
en  live  and  work  in  Ky5to,  where  much  of  the  finest 
quer  is  now  made.  Present-day  experts  do  work  not 
nne  and  as  attractive  as  any  that  their  predecessors 
t  considerable  of  it  is  in  forms  which  appeal  more 
T  to  modem  collectors.   A  representative  e:roonent  of 

the  best  modem  gold-lacquer-work  is  S,  naytishi,  of 
in  whose  workshop  the  interested  traveler  may  inspect 
processes  of  manufacture,  —  none  of  whi<ch  are  now 

A  store  where  lacquer-ware  is  sold  is  called  ShiHya, 
monoya. 

BRED  Wares  are  known  collectively  as  Nurimono  (nuri,  lacquer- 
ishing;  monOf  thing).  The  lacquer  or  lac  is  urttshi;  and  to  lacquer 
de  nuru.  *  The  lacquerers  are  divided  into  two  general  classes: 
o-ahi  or  Nuahi^a,  and  Makiye-shi.  The  first  supply  the  ground- 
1  common  lacquering;  they  understand  nothing  about  the  finer 
d  only  in  exceptional  cases  employ  metals  for  decoration.  The 
hit  or  lacquer  painters,  stand  higher,  and  are  usually  real  artists 
1  their  small  brush  with  great  firmness  and  dcill,  and  not  only  work 
;  to  patterns,  but  often  develop  admirable  creative  power  in  design- 
}  Aogai-ahi,  or  madreperl  inlaycrs,  constitute  a  class  apart.  The  lac- 
(Rhus  vernicifera,  Japanese,  Uruahi-no-ki)  flourishes  all  over  Japan, 
Itivated  to  the  best  advantage  in  the  N.  part  of  the  Main  Island, 
[at.  37"  and  39°.  From  the  8th  yr.  onward  the  trees  bear  dry,  ye- 
een  stone  fruit  from  which  a  plant  tallow  is  expressed.  The  wood 
ained  and  is  golden  at  the  heart,  and  is  much  used  for  cabinet- 
rees  are  at  their  best  for  yielding  lacquer  when  about  18-20  yrs. 
>ugh  lac  extraction  often  begins  when  they  are  5-10  yrs.  old.  The 
t^>ped  by  men  who  make  a  specialty  of  the  work,  and  the  viscid 
Q  hquor  b  called  kxuruahi,  or  raw  lacquer.  Not  a  few  of  the  work- 
er from  lacquer-poisoning  (uruahi-kabure);  since  the  lacquer-tree  is 
>  the  sumac,  and  possesses  similar  poisonous  attributes.  Travelers 
le  to  the  effects  of  poison-ivy  may  Hke  to  remember  that  by  merely 
a  cheap,  improperly  lacquered  article,  on  a  moist,  summer  day, 
suffer  slightly  from  the  effects  of  the  poison.  It  appears  in  a  mild 
I  of  the  back  of  the  hands  and  on  other  parts  of  the  body  —  often- 
Jhe  form  oif  small  blisters  between  the  fingers.  In  two  or  three  dayv 
ig,  burmng  sensation  goes  away  and  the  swelling  subsides. 
M>d  meet  largely  used  in  the  making  of  the  best  lacquered  ^axe  \b 
UrimMpora  obtuaa),  aa  it  is  white,  free  from  knots,  and  'haa  \)>x\» 


ccxlvi  METAL-WORK 

little  reain;  many  others  are  employed,  however,  and  are  generally  aeketod 
for  tou^ness  and  firmness  of  grain.  After  the  wellnseasoned  wooatobel>»> 
quered  is  fashioned  by  an  expert  joiner  into  a  dainty  box,  all  the  pores,  JoiBlii 
and  fissures  are  carefully  filled  with  lacquer,  or  with  a  lute  called  JboibtMo.oeift* 
posed  of  rice-paste  and  lacquer  mixed  with  fine  cotton  wadding.   The  artule 
IS  then  painted  over  with  a  thin  coating  of  lac-sizing;  if  it  is  bulky,  it  is  now 
ooverea  with  fine  but  strong  linen  (silk  is  used  in  the  daintier  work) ,  f^ikh* 
when  glued  to  the  surface,  strengtJiens  it  and  excludes  moisture.    This  wv- 
ering  is  then  painted  with  lacquer  and  allowed  to  dry,  before  receiving  a  2d 
coat.  It  is  now  luted  again  with  a  composition  of  powdered  clay  uid  lacquer 
in  order  to  insure  it  against  warping,  and  again  with  a  finer  grade  of  da 
and  lacquer.    This  is  repeated  twice  before  the  surface  is  smoothed  m 
polished  with  a  special  charcoal,  after  which  another,  then  still  anothert  ooik 
of  lacquer  is  applied.  After  the  tedious  process  of  rubbing-down  is  fim^ed, 
the  design,  which  is  first  drawn  on  one  side  of  the  paper  with  Ind^  ink. 
and  on  the  reverse,  in  outline,  with  lacquer,  is  pressed  against  the  surfaoea 
the  box  imtil  an  outline  impression  is  formed.  The  details  are  then  fiUed  b 
with  gold  powder  and  colors.   A  final  coat  of  transparent  black  lacquer  ii 
laid  over  the  gold  surface,  which,  when  dry,  is  polished  again  wiu  ftM- 
grained  charcoal  to  bring  the  colors  and  the  gold  nearer  to  the  suxfaoe.  Tiff 
peculiar  metallic  luster  brought  out  by  the  burnishing  is  referred  to  •■ 
togidasht.   If  embossed  or  raised  work,  takamakiye,  is  wanted,  it  is  now  • 
question  of  painting  the  designs  in  gold,  lacquering  them  suooeaaively,  tiien 
applying  them  agam  until  the  required  thickness  is  obtained.  The  ixtMMi 
varies,  and  is  described  with  a  wealth  of  detail  in  vol.  7  of  the  Oriental  Smii^ 
and  in  Dr.  Rein's  superlatively  excellent  Industries  of  Japan.    Hie  b«rt 
Japanese  lacquered  ware  has  been  described  as  '  the  most  perfect  worio 
that  have  issued  from  man's  hands.'  The  common  lacquered  work  made  Ut 
export  is  usually  |ust  a  plain  wood  article  with  a  painted  surface ;  it  ia  brittit 
and  it  cracks  easilv  —  particularly  when  (as  is  often  the  case)  the  wood  i> 
sawed  against,  rather  than  with,  the  grain.  Good  lacquer  should  be  duted 
with  a  fine  silk  cloth  or  something  equally  soft,  as  a  rough  one  will  acnXA 
the  delicate  surface. 

Metal-Work.  The  relics  exhumed  from  sepulchers  indicate 
that  the  Japanese  passed  through  a  bronze  age  and  an  iron 
age;  the  earliest  bronze  castings  are  supposed  to  date  from  the 
6th  cent,  before  the  Christian  era.  Iron  began  to  take  tbe 
place  of  bronze  about  B.C.  200,  and  coincidently  gold  canie 
mto  use.  In  the  4th  cent. '  considerable  skill  had  been  dev^ 
oped  in  the  use  of  bronze,  iron,  and  gold  for  decorative  pu^ 
poses.  Gold-plating  was  appliea  with  dexterity  to  bronze  and 
uron  alike;  decoration,  not  without  delicacy  and  ^ace,  appeals 
upon  the  hilts  of  swords,  and  cleverly  conceived  motivefl^ 
modeled  and  chiseled  with  ability,  appeared  upon  the  pom' 
mels.'  With  Buddhism  came  a  new  standard  of  art  conceptioDi 
after  the  year  552,  religious  statues  began  to  arrive  from  Koreft 
in  numbers,  and  these,  as  well  as  the  bronze  images  modded 
in  Japan  during  the  next  60  or  70  yrs.,  show  sculpture  whieh 
had  not  yet  fully  emerged  from  its  primitive  stage.  In  the  fii*^ 
half  of  the  8th  cent.,  however,  the  ability  to  work  skillfully^ 
metals  generally,  and  especially  in  bronze,  had  reached  a 
stage;  the  best  examples  of  this  early  work  are  the  great 
massive  statues  of  Buddha,  and  the  idols,  vases,  censors, 
other  celebrated  articles  preserved  in  Nara,  Kyoto,  etc.  8o 
great  was  the  demand  for  swords  of  fine  temper,  weapons  of 
various  classes,  and  armor,  during  the  penod  of  militaiy 
despotism  and  feudalism,  that  the   Japanese  became  UMfO 


DAMASCENING  cczlvii 

spert  in  metalrworking  than  in  manv  of  their  other  arts,  and 
l^re  was  scarcely  any  kind  of  metal  ornamentation  or  deco- 
ition,  with  the  exception  of  galvaniflng,  which  they  had  not 
Qown  and  practiced  before  the  opening  of  the  country.  In 
leir  more  eminent  accomplishments  they  had  already  won 
le  admiration  of  European  connoisseiu^.  Precious  metals, 
)pper,  bronze,  and  cast-iron,  however  different  their  proper- 
es  may  be,  all  yield  to  the  skillful  hand  of  the  Japanese,  and 
)  his  manifold  httle  art  conceptions,  which  effectively^  supple- 
ment the  simplicity  of  the  tools.  His  decorations  of  iron  and 
ronze  belong  notably  to  the  most  costly  that  oan  be  accom- 
lished  in  this  direction.  The  wonderful  skill  with  which  appar- 
Qtly  insurmountable  difficulties  in  damascening,  chasing,  and 
ther  work  are  overcome,  surprises  one  no  less  than  the  great 
bUity  to  work  effective  color  combinations^  and  the  means  of 
heir  representation.'  The  Japanese  are  skilled  equally  in  the 
lasting  (IrUj  or  I^mono)  of  metals;  in  Embossing  (  Uchirdashif 
•r  Uchiroge);  Beating  or  hammering  {Tataku  or  Utsu); 
Turned  work  (Rokuro-aaiku);  Chasing  {Horn  and  Hori-age); 

Xving  or  incising  {Ham,  and  Kirirtsuke; —  Hori^mono 
name  ^ven  to  eveiy  kind  of  graven  or  chased  work,  and 
he  article  thus  decorated  is  called  Horinmono-zaiku) ;  Damas- 
iening  (Zogan);  Plating  {Kirv-kUe  and  Givrhise)',  Enamel 
/SAtppd);  and  Coloring  {Iro^suke), 

(a)  Damascening,  or  inla^ng  on  gold-bronze,  copper, 
)lain  bronze,  iron,  and  steel,  is  done  in  a  very  skillful  and 
irtistic  manner  by  the  old  Kyoto  craftsmen,  and  the  work  is 
K)piilar  with  foreigners.  The  best  ranks  alongside  the  famous 
>roducts  of  Damascus  (whence  the  name)  and  the  finest  koft- 
vork  of  Kashmir.  The  gold-bronze  used  in  Japan  is  the  purest 
)ronze  with  from  5%  to  50%  of  refined  gold  added,  according 
"0  the  use  to  be  made  of  the  article.  Thus,  while  vases  and 
cabinet-  or  mantel-ornaments,  which  are  not  much  handled, 
nay  contain  20%  of  pure  gold;  cigarette-cases,  match-boxes, 
md  the  like,  exposed  to  considerable  friction,  contain  30%,  — 
vhich  is  consiaered  high  grade.  The  buyer  must  take  the 
Jeter's  word  for  the  amount  of  gold  in  each  article,  as  the  sur- 
aoe  gives  no  indication  of  it  imtil  it  begins  to  wear.  Sea  salt 
'fl  secret  proportions  is  used  in  the  process,  and  the  beautiful 
^lue-black  finish  of  the  finest  work  is  imparted  by  using  sul- 
phate and  verdigris,  then  boiling  the  object  in  sea  water. 
Patient  hand-work  produces  the  final  brilliant  polish.  The 
Nestor  true  damascening  (hon-zogan)  is  made  as  follows:  After 
^  metal  is  prepared  the  design  is  drawn  first  on  paper,  then 
yith  India  ink  on  the  article  to  be  ornamented.  Along  these 
ines  furrows  are  made  in  the  bSronze  with  a  burin,  the  cross- 
lection,  somewhat  in  the  form  of  a  T-rail,  being  widest  at  the 
laae,  where  it  is  cut  under  the  overhan^g  smiace.  In  ibi^ 
nj  both  the  outer  edges  of  the  furrow,  whicli  gjro^^  W^'st 


ccxlviii  SILVER  AND  GOLD  WORK 

toward  the  inside,  are  beaten  back,  welt  fashion,  and  filed  off 
smooth.  Gold  or  silver  wire,  or  plate,  is  then  laid  in  the  furrov 
and  beaten  till  it  expands  and  aovetails  underneath;  it  is  then 
ground  off  smooth  on  the  surface  and  can  never  come  out  Id 
cheaper  goods  the  metal  is  simply  set  in;  while  still  cheaper 
stuff  is  electroplated  and  made  in  imitation  of  the  best.  Some 
beautiful  effects  are  produced  in  the  best  work  bv  inlaying  with 
a  silver-bronze  called  Shibuichif  —  a  grayish-black  alloy  con- 
taining 3  parts  of  copi)er  and  1  of  silver.  —  Takozdigan  is 
raised  damascene  work,  or  relief  inlaying,  in  which  the  gold 
and  silver  project  over  the  furrow.    Exquisite  work  that  has 
been  carried  to  an  extraordinary  degree  of  elaboration  is  done 
under  this  head,  popular  motives  being  gold  storks  or  cranes 
wading  in  a  silver  stream;  flying  geese,  ducks,  and  a  host  of 
desi^s.  —  Hiror-zogan  is  flat  damascening  in  which  the  inlaid 
precious  metal  does  not  project  over  the  surface  of  the  metal 
decorated    with    it.  —  Nunome-zogariy    or    damascening  in 
meshes,  is  applied  in  a  great  variety  of  ways,  and  in  many 
designs.   It  is  one  of  the  most  interesting  of  the  various  pro- 
cesses,  and  beautiful   work,    almost   covered   with   endless 
arabesques  and  attractive  native  designs,  is  turned  out  of  the 
Kyoto  workshops.  Bronze  and  gold-bronze  is  often  encrusted 
with  gold-leaf  (kimpaku).  The  interested  traveler  can  inspect 
the  process  of  manufacture  at  the  ateliers  (English  spoken)  of 
K,  I,   Kuroda  (celebrated  also  for  artistic  groups  in  plain 
bronze),  and  S.  Komai,  both  in  Kyoto,  and  both  leaders  in 
the  arts.    The  finest  work  seen  in  the  curio  establishments 
throughout  the  Empire  often  originates  here. 

(6)  Silver  (giri)  and  Gold  ikin),  though  anciently  made 
into  a  variety  of  small  articles  for  ornament  (chiefly  sword* 
furniture  and  the  like),  evidently  were  too  precious  to  be  fash- 
ioned into  the  utensils  and  massive  and  beautiful  art  objects 
which  the  forei^  demand  has  created.   While  the  goldsnutb^ 
(kinzokurshi)  still  confine  themselves  practically  to  damascene 
work  and  jewelry,  the  silversmiths  (ginzaikuya)   of  T6ky4> 
(where  the  best  work  is  made)  produce  repouss4  and  carvec^ 
work  that  is  almost  unequaled,  and  is  notably  superior  to  the 
celebrated  silver-work  (ginzaiku)  of  China  (where  considerable 
base  metal  is  mixed  with  the  silver),  Siam,  Burma,  Ceyloii| 
and  India.  The  beaten-work  is  finished  with  noteworthy  skill 
and  with  a  thoroughly  charming  fidelity  to  detail.  The  best  i^ 
marked  by  a  perfectly  even  distribution  of  the    'hammer' 
eyes  '  (teitfc/ii-mc),  and  by  a  wealth  of  enrichment  which  atiLS 
craftsmen  in  a  land  where  time  is  not  considered  as  wortB 
much  are  willing  to  impart.  The  beautiful  great  punch-bowby 
tea-sets,  trays,  flower-bowls,  aiid  the  host  of  smaller  articles  in 
constant  demand  by  tourists,  are  immensely  attractive;  as  tiie 
work  not  only  differs  in  design,  but  is  generally  much  superior 
in  craftsmaiwhip  to  any  obtainable  in  England  or  An^eai 


BRONZE-WOBE  ocxliz 

Hie  best  relief-work  has  various  flowers  (chrysanthemums, 
iris,  etc.)  and  dragons  for  its  decorative  motif  a.  After  being 
beaten  up  from  the  under  or  reverse  side,  the  article  is  filled 
with  molten  asphalt  and  raised  in  relief  (from  the  outside) 
by  means  of  the  hammer  and  various  tools.  The  finished 
article  is  usually  sold  by  weight,  a  certain  price  for  the  work- 
manship being  added  to  the  cost  of  the  silver  (according  to  its 
weight).  The  special  trick  employed  by  untrustworthy  silver- 
smiths is  first  to  mix  an  alloy  of  base  metal  with  the  silver,  and 
then  to  leave  an  appreciable  quantity  of  the  pitch  between  the 
inner  surfaces  of  the  metal,  so  as  to  increase  the  weight.  When 
this  is  not  practicable,  thin  sheets  of  pewter  or  other  oase  metal 
are  skillfully  inserted  between  the  inner  and  outer  skin  of 
silver.  Strangers  should  be  on  their  gu£uxl  against  the  allure- 
ments to  purchase  alleged  pure  silver  at  suspiciously  low 
prices,  as  the  'pale  drudge'  has  a  recognized  market  value 
and  will  always  oring  its  price.  Travelers  will  do  well  to  con- 
fine their  purchases  to  houses  of  known  repute. 

(c)  Bronze,  or  kara-kane  (Chinese:  *  metal'),  a  copper-tin- 
lead  compound  with  from  70  to  90%  of  copper;  2  to  8%  of  tin; 
and  4  to  20%  of  lead,  also  contains  smsul  quantities  of  iron, 
nickel,  cobalt,  antimony,  arsenic,  etc.,  and  in  Japan  is  of  a 
toughness,  closeness,  and  hardness  which  enable  the  skilled 
craftsmen  to  fashion  it  into  many  beautiful  and  attractive 
shapes.  The  industry  is  one  of  the  oldest  in  the  Empire,  and 
while  it  formerly  reached  its  highest  development  in  the  service 
of  the  Buddhist  religion  (in  the  casting  of  statues,  bells,  and 
what-not)  the  modem  demand  is  met  by  a  host  of  articles  which 
in  finish  and  color  fall  but  little  short  of  the  finest  jewelry  work. 
^!  The  Japanese  bronze  is  'eminently  adapted  for  art  castings. 
£?L  not  only  because  of  its  low  melting-point,  great  fluidity,  ana 
"^  capacity  for  taking  sharp  impressions,  but  also  because  it  has 
^  a  particularly  smooth  surface  and  readily  acquires  a  rich 
€»  patina.'  The  colors  range  through  all  the  shades  of  brown  and 
^.  pay  from  light  yellow  to  the  finest  and  most  effective  dead 
"^  black,  and  are  distinguished  by  great  imiformity.  The  yellow 
^  bronze  called  serUoku  (and  *  sun-spot'  bronze  by  foreigners)  is 
sJi  80  named  because  the  first  specimen  of  it  reachea  Japan  in  the 
y'.  8entoku  (Chinese:  ^ShurUish')  era  of  the  Ming  Dvnasty. 
6^  Certain  Japanese  believe  that  the  alloy  was  accidentally 
s»-  obtained  when  the  Chinese  melted  together  the  gold  and  bronze 
nj^  Vessels  of  the  conquered  Mongols;  but  in  sober  truth  gold  does 
05^  not  enter  into  its  composition  —  which  is  formed  of  copper, 
"pf  tin,  lead,  and  zinc.  Its  fine  golden  color  and  glossjr  texture 
y^  make  it  a  favorite  with  native  manufacturers .  The  variety  with 
^  a  surface  like  aventurine  lacquer  (which  see),  with  specks 
like  gold  on  the  surface,  is  made  by  heating  the  alloy  a  number 
of  tmies  and  sprinkling  it  while  hot  with  sulphate  ol  eop^x 
nd  nitric  acid.  Many  of  the  bronze  castings  of  modem  ax\i\&\A 


^\ 


cc!  CLOISONNE  ENAMEL 

are  more  beautiful  to  the  average  foreigner  than  the  olditf 
work;  the  finest  pieces  are  costly,  beautiful  shadings  of  green 
and  brown  being  the  popular  finishes.  The  market  is  full  of 
meretricious  imitations  of  the  work  of  the  best-known  mastei& 
whose  names  are  forged  with  such  frequency  that  a  detailed 
list  of  them  would  be_of  but  little  service  to  the  traveler.  TTjc 
cheap  stuff  made  at  Osaka  bears  but  little  resemblance  to  the 
artistic  productions  of  the  ateliers'  of  Tokyo  and  Kyoto.  The 
excess  of  antimony  which  is  mixed  with  the  cheaper  grades  of 
bronze  to  give  them  the  required  timber  render  them  So  brittle 
and  crumbly  that  one  can  almost  poke  a  hole  through  a  cheap 
vase  with  a  lead  pencil.  New  bronzes  are  aged  by  a  sulphurio- 
acid  bath  and  by  other  methods.  The  only  way  the  tJavder 
can  be  assured  of  quality  is  to  enlist  the  aid  of  some  ezp^ 
when  making  his  purchases,  or  to  deal  exclusively  with 
reputable  firms.  A  store  where  bronze  is  sold  is  Dokiya, 

(d)  CLoisoNNife  Enamel  {shifpo),  though  long  known  to  the 
Chinese,  is  thought  to  have  gained  its  first  foothold  in  Japai^ 
near  the  close  of  the  16th  cent.,  when  Hirata  Hokomto 
established  himself  at  Nagoya  and  began  the  manufactine, 
in  a  small  way,  of  various  decorative  articles.  The  naa* 
shippo  (or  jippo)  means  the  *  seven  precious  things,'  —  golA 
silver,  lapis-lazuli,  coral,  agate,  rock-crystal,  and  pearl,  —  and 
was  no  doubt  applied  by  the  Japanese  to  vari-colored  enam^' 
encrusted  wares  because  of  the  ancient  custom  (practiced  itt 
Constantinople.  Egypt,  China,  and  elsewhere)  of  decorating 
gold,  silver,  ana  copper  vessels  with  precious  and  semi-preciottf 
stones.  Of  the  two  prominent  processes,  pit  or  embedded 
enamel  {chainplev6)y  and  the  cell  or  encrusted  enamel  (do** 
8onn€)f  the  latter  is  the  most  popular  among  the  Japanese;  the 
cells  or  doisons  are  formed  separately  of  narrow  metal  bands 
corresponding  to  the  pattern  of  the  decoration,  and  then 
soldered  to  the  foundation.  This  process  of  enamel  decora- 
tion requires  considerable  technical  skill  and  is  essenUsdly  9B 
follows:  — 

^  After  the  object  to  be  decorated  has  been  fashioned  in  thin  copper  (<" 
silver),  the  decorations  are  sketched  or  traced  on  its  surface,  generally  bS^ 
patterns,  with  a  white-lead  varnish  or  India  ink.  The  cloisons  are  formed  ^ 
means  of  narrow  strips  of  gold,  silver,  or  copper  delicately  graded,  heate<* 
beforehand  to  take  out  the  elasticity,  curved  into  the  required  shape  with  » 
pair  of  wire  pincers,  and  first  cemented,  then  soldered  to  the  surface.  fO^ 
m  this  position,  standing  on  their  edges,  they  outline  the  design  azMl  tct^' 
inclosing  spaces,  to  receive  the  enamel  pastes.  These  are  now  padced  lO' 
color  after  color,  and  when  the  cells  are  filled  the  object  is  placed  m  an  0^ 
and  subjected  to  a  heat  sufficient  to  vitrify  the  pastes  without  affeotinc  tv 
metals  forming  Uie  base  and  the  cells.  The  colors  shrink  considerably  ujoaff 
the  application  of  heat,  and  holes  are  formed  in  the  enamel,  so  that  tbM« 
must  be  a  continual  filling-up  of  the  cloisons.  The  vessel  is  subjected  tot 
second  firing,  then  rubbed  and  polished.  The  cracks  and  other  hoUowB  0 
the  cells  are  again  fiUed  up  wad  improved,  then  burnt  for  the  third  time,  9m 
often  a  fourth,  and  once  more  rubbed  and  polished.  After  the  vitafin 
pastes  have  completely  filled  the  spaces,  the  whole  surface  is  ground  tm 
polished  with  varying  grades  oi  aoit  etloue  and  with  great  caie  mti  ■ 


N 


i 


ri 
fit 


XIV.  Ceramics.  /  f 


CERAMICS  ei 

bee<Mne0  perfectly  even  and  ahowB  a  aott  luster.   Pieces  finished  in  this  man 
ner  a^  caDed  kagari^ppd^  or  ornamental  enamel.  When  transluoid  pastea 
are  emplosred,  the  grinding  and  polishing  are  often  dispensed  with.  The 
greatest  care  is  fdven  to  fine  pieces  by  reputable  dealers.   Imitations  are 
often  made  by  subjecting  the  object  to  one  or  two  firings,  then  filling  in  the 
holes  and  cracks  with  v^Eetable  tallow,  rather  than  take  the  time  to  fill  in   i    . 
and  bum  the  piece  property.  The  more  intricate  the  design,  the  softer  the  f    ' 
color;  the  finer  the  wire,  and  the  higher  the  finish,  the  more  costly  is  the 
article.  KyOto  and  Naf^ya  are  headquarters  for  the  manufacture  not  only 
of  articles  of  some  ment,  but  also  of  many  deceitful  imitations.   Here  also 
are  made  some  of  the  handsome  monochrome  enamels  —  yellow,  red,  auber- 
^ne  purple,  grass-green,  dove-gray,  lapis-laculi,  etc.  Very  charming  efifects 
are  produced  in  some  of  this  work  by  spreading  translucid  enamels  Over 
chiseled  or  decorated  bases  that  show  through  the  diaphanous  covering.  A 
gold  or  a  mhrer  base  deeply  chiseled  in  wave-diaper,  and  overrun  with  a 
paste  of  aubergine  purple,  is  a  popular  design,  as  is  also  one  showing  a  bril- 
Ba&t  little  gold-fish  swimming  through  a  medium  of  tender  blue  heightened 
hy  a  background  of  shimmenng  silver. 

The  highly  artistic  work  of  Namikawa  Sosuke,  of  TOkyd,  stands  practi- 
cally in  a  class  apart  from  the  cloisonnS  enamel,  and  is  known  as  musen- 
itppd,  or  doisonAesB  enamel.  In  this  work,  which  came  into  prominence 
about  1880  and  which  has  been  brought  to  a  high  degree  of  ];>erfection  by 
the  inventor,  Namikatoa  Sosuke,  and  his  son,  beautiful  and  imperishable 
pictures  in  vitrified  pastes  are  produced,  '  remarkable  as  to  technical  skill, 
harmonious  and  at  the  same  time  rich  in  coloring,  and  possessing  pictorial 
Qjulities  which  could  not  reasonably  have  been  looked  for  in  such  material. 
There  is  nothing  like  them  to  be  found  in  any  other  country,  and  they  stand 
at  an  immeasurable  distance  above  the  ordinary  doiaonni  creations.  The 
wsign.  which  is  usually  placed  in  a  monochromatic  field  of  low  tone,  is 
_  framea,  at  the  outset,  with  a  ribbon  of  thin  metal,  after  the  manner  of 
*'  ordinary  doiaonnS-waxe;  but  as  the  work  proceeds,  the  doiaona  are  hidden, 
0-  ^  unless  their  prasence  would  contribute  to  give  necessary  emphasis  to  the 
>C :  ^^Bgn,  —  and  the  final  result  is  a  picture  in  vitrified  enamel.'  Vases,  panels, 
^  bowls,  flat  pictures  several  ft.  sq.,  depicting  fowls,  animals,  land-  and  sea- 
^^'  *capes,  flowers,  and  a  wide  variety  of  subjects,  are  to  be  found  in  this 
:i:\  miqudy  beautiful  work  in  an  almost  endless  scale  of  shades  and  tones.  Not 
y,  ]  A  few  of  the  motifs  are  the  most  famous  paintings  of  the  early  masters,  which 
,  I  ^  copied  in  enamel  with  a  fidelity  to  the  oni^nals  that  is  extraordinary. 
-'J  In  reproducing  some  of  the  old  pictures,  the  doiaons  are  hidden  or  omitted, 
:  '  or  freely  used,  and  the  reproductions  are  so  minute  and  so  faithful  that  the 
^l\  Particular  shades  of  antiquity  belonging  to  the  silk  or  paper  on  which  the 
''^  Picture  was  originally  painted  appear  on  the  copies.  The  intricate  and 
^-^  tedious  process  of  i>ainting  the  enamels  on,  then  the  firing  and  polishing, 
K>  can  be  seen  by  travelers  at  Mr.  Namikawa' s  studio  (English  spoken)  at  8, 
•si  ^jhinyemon-chot  Nihonbaahi-ku,  T5kyd.  Here,  too,  are  made  many  of  the 
'  i  beautifiil  gold-enameled  decorations  used  by  the  Imperial  Japanese  Gov't. 
■      '^  A  doiaonni  shop  is  Shippdya. 


Ceramics  (Greek:  potters'  clay;  a  piece  of  pottery,  etc.) 
i'\  Occupy  one  of  the  most  important  places  in  Japanese  art 
Products,  and  the  pottery  industry  dates  from  remote,  pre- 
oistoric  times.  The  fictile  arts  appeal  strongly  to  the  moaem 
craftsmen  and  by  them  they  have  been  elevated  to  an  unusu- 
afly  high  degree  of  artistic  excellence. 

The  first  pottery  which  history  takes  note  of  in  Japan  is  the  Kameoka- 
waie,  —  a  crude,  unglaaed,  and  imdecorated  ware  supix)sed  to  be  the  rude 
artistic  expression  of  the  autochthons  of  the  country,  and  exhumed  in  con- 
dderabie  quantities  in  the  Kam^oka  region  of  N.  Japan.  The  forms  are  awk- 
vndt  inehning  to  aoherical  shapes,  and  the  surface  decorations  oi  t^kie  \>Qa\i 
pieeH  oonfined  to  elementary  dispeiis  of  straight  lines  or  cxirvea,  sctBiVa^'^ 
b  tlw  day  when  soft  with  a  pointed  tool.    Captain  Brinkley  pomta  o\i\.  \>[iQ 


odii  CERAMICS 

■snifieant  fact  that  the  ornamentation  of  some  of  the  *pi]grim4xitte' 
(a  form  so  common  to  the  eiu'ly  i>ottery  of  many  nations)  bears  nor—m 
Uanoe  to  the  decorations  followed  in  China  and  Korea,  but  sCroQ^ 
resembles  that  constantly  adopted  by  the  potters  of  Greece-  and  Cypm  fii 
ancient  times.  *  This  close  affiliation  to  Apulian  and  Cypriote  deooratioM 
suggests  an  interesting  range  of  speculation,  impl^ng,  as  it  does,  a  pio- 
nounced  racial  distinction  between  the  dolmen-building  Japanese  and  tiN 
inhabitants  of  the  near-by  Asiatic  continent.'  The  early  i>otters  ocoivU 
a  very  low  plane  of  intelligence,  and  possessed  neither  artistic  ability  nor 
independent  creative  power.  They  were  apparently  unable  to  produce  snjf^ 
thing  more  complex  than  lightly  burned  terra-cotta  and  hard-bjmw 
eathenware  similar  to  that  made  by  the  aboriginal  potters  of  tibte  S.W.  a 
the  U.S.  They  seem  to  have  understood  the  use  of  the  wheel  and  had  a  oradi 
conception  of  decorative  effects,  but  they  knew  nothing  of  transludd  p<vf»* 
lain,  and  were  not  able  to  apply  glaze  to  their  wares.  Oddly  enoudb«  tlMif 
appear  to  have  had  no  acquaintance  with  the  decorative  motives  which  art 
so  intimately  associated  with  Chinese  applied  art  —  dragons,  phouuxB^ 
tigers,  the  key-pattern,  the  fylfot,  elaborate  diapers,  etc.  Unlike  the  histoiy 
of  i>ottery-makmg  in  Mexico  (where  the  art  attained  a  high  development  ai 
long  as  it  remained  uninfluenced  bj^  foreign  ideas,  but  which  degenersted 
and  decUned  after  the  Spanish  invasion),  the  Mongoloid  intruders  in  JspiB 
enriched  the  art  with  so  many  ideas  and  designs  that  its  influence  is  now  ftlt 
in  almost  eveiy  comer  of  the  world. 

When  Gyoffi  came  to  Japan  from  Korea  in  the  middle  of  the  8th  cent.,  hi 
gave  such  an  impetus  to  pottery-making  that  many  native  antiquuitf* 
regard  him  as  the  founder  of  the  art  in  Japan.  *  His  figure  assumed  siieh 
historical  importance  that  everything  antecedent  passed  out  of  view,  and  to 
this  day,  whenever  from  any  long-unexplored  place,  there  is  exhumed  a  VP^ 
men  of  unsightly  and  time-stained  pottery,  it  is  unhesitatingly  christensd 
**  Qyogi-yaki"  *  (Gi/o^i-ware).  Up  to  the  12th  cent,  the  producticm  v 
glased  earthenware  was  Umited,  and  the  finest  existing  pieces  dating  firoD 
the  years  preceding  were  manifestly  of  Chinese  (or  Korean)  origin.  Aboot 
1223  Koto  ShirozoBmon  (or  Kagemasa),  a  native  potter  (now  known  astlH 
father  of  pottery  in  Japan)  who  had  achieved  some  local  distinction,  weot 
to  China  to  study  the  development  of  the  art  in  the  Middle  Kingdom;  retuni' 
ing  6  yrs.  later  he  settled  at  Seto,  in  Owari  Province,  and  began  the  produo* 
tion  of  a  ware  which  to-day  is  held  in  high  esteem.  The  workmanship  wu 
superior  to  anything  that  had  hitherto  been  produced;  the  paste  was reddldi' 
brown  clay,  with  a  considerable  admixture  of  silicious  particles,  and  th> 
glase,  applied  with  no  mean  skill,  was  most  commonly  dark  brown  witb 
occasional  streaks  or  patches  of  a  different  tint.  The  chief  productions  were 
tea-Jars  of  various  shapes  and  sizes,  which,  having  been  from  the  venr  fii^ 
treasured  with  great  care  b^  their  fortunate  possessors,  are  still  to  be  fouod; 
but  are  held  at  fabulous  prices.  So  great  a  reputation  did  this  T6^iro-yah 
(as  the  ware  was  commonly  called)  enjoy,  and  such  prestige  did  its  appesf' 
ance  give  to  the  potters  of  Owari,  that  most  everything  which  preoeoed  it 
was  considered  unworthy,  and  the  name  Seto-mono  (Seto  goods  or  thuocfl) 
thenceforth  became  the  generic  term  for  all  ceramic  manufactures  in  Ji^pafif 
just  as  are  Taiavera  in  Spain,  Delft  in  Holland,  and  China  in  Europe. 

There  is  now  scarcel^i/^  a  province  in  the  Empire  where  pottery,  falenpe, 
stoneware,  or  porcelain  is  not  produced ;  most  of  the  products  are  attraetiv* 
and  some  are  exceedingly  beautiful.  ^  As  a  rule  they  are  not  designated 
according  to  their  character,  but  their  origin,  as:  «Sa<«iima-ware,  Xuftnit^ 
yaki:  Seto-mono;  Hizen-ware,  Kyoto-w&re,  etc.  The  designations  /«W-|«*« 
for  hard-burned  resonant  porcelain  and  stoneware,  and  Tauchi-yaki  fat  sorttf 
earthenwares,  however,  are  known  and  accepted  everywhere.    Poro^uB^ 

^  The  word  Porcelain  is  derived  from  porcellana,  a  name  given  to  ^ 
ware  by  the  Portuguese  traders  under  the  belief  that  it  was  made  from  ^ 
fusion  of  eggshells  and  fish's  glue  and  scales  to  resemble  the  beautifkiQy 
polished,  nacreous  surface  of  the  Venus-shell  (Cyprceda)  —  theicurved  tbtjft 
of  the  upper  surface  of  which  resembles  the  curve  of  a  pig's  back  (poredm 
a  Uttle  pig;  diminutive  of  porco;  fem.  porca).   A  i>orcelain  ahop  is  TauM' 

vakipa  (or  Setomonoya;  or  Zikiya,  etc.,  depending  upon  the  cImm  of 

aoJd). 


WARES  OF  KYOTO  ccliii 

(ulikh  wasinrented  by  the  Chinese)  stands  at  the  head  as  the  noblest  mem- 
ber of  the  family  of  ceramics,  and  large  quantities  are  made  and  exported 
to  diffwent  parts  of  the  world.  As  a  book  would  be  necessary  to  caUtlogue 
all  the  wares  now  made  in  Japan,  only  those  with  which  most  travelen  are 
familiar;  and  with  which  they  usually  come  in  contact  when  in  Japan,  will 
be  mentioned  here.  Porcelainists  will  find  a  wealth  of  valuable  data,  suf^ple- 
mented  by  many  handsome  illustrations  in  Bein*a  Induatriea  of  Japan^  and 
Brinkley'a  OrierUal  Series  (consult  the  Bibliography). 

(a)  The  Wabbs  of  Kyoto  are  legion,  and  in  its  400  or  more 
IoIds  the  sometime  Imperial  capital  produces  ordinary  pottery, 
fstoce,  and  porcelain  in  almost  endless  variety.  With  the 
exception  perhaps  of  Yokohama,  no  Japanese  city  contains 
porcelain  uiops  that  are  such  a  sustained  delight  to  collectors 
and  where  such  varied  and  attractive  stocks  are  carried.  Tlie 
district  lying  alon^  the  W.  flank  of  Higaahi^ama,  from 
Kinkozaivs  pottery  m  Awata  to  Kiyomizurdera  and  beyond,  is 
studded  with  glowing  kilns  and  rows  of  porcelain  shops,  wmle 
hundreds  of  the  latter  are  scattered  throughout  the  broad  city. 
The  wares  are  usually  divided  into  four  classes:  RtihurycSci 
,(p.  ccliv) ;  AtoaJtar^akif  Iwakuroryaki  (which  to  the  casual  eye 
is  almost  indistinguishable  from  the  AwaJta  ware),  and 
Kiyomissvr^aki.  Although  historv  records  that  the  &*st 
KvOto  potter,  Umirtrin  YasuhitOf  the  7th  son  of  the  Emperor 
aimydf  lived  and  worked  during  the  9th  cent.,  the  art  ac- 
quired out  little  importance  before  the  16th  cent . ,  when  the  Eaku 
ul^ce  inaugurated  by  the  Korean  Ameya  became  a  favorite 
ware  with  the  Kyoto  tea-clubs.  Distinctively  Japanese,  Rakvr 
2/0^  is  now  made  in  many  parts  of  the  country.  It  is  a  coarse 
and  somewhat  clumsy  ware  of  a  brittle  light-colored  pdte  covered 
with  black  (the  staple  type),  yellow,  red,  white,  or  salmon  glaze 
easily  recognized  by  its  peculiarly  opaque,  waxy  appearance: 
and  sometimes  gUded,  but  more  often  curiously  speckled  ana 
pitted  with  red.  It  is  much  esteemed  by  Japanese,  particu- 
my  that  made  at  Kyoto  by  the  descendants  (m  the  13th  gen- 
eration) of  the  founder  (upon  whom  Hideyoshi  conferrS  a 
gold  seal  bearing  the  symbol  Rakuj  whence  the  trademark). 

Nomura  Seisukef  who  with  his  wares  is  known  to  posterity 
88  Ninsei,  and  who  (in  the  middle  of  the  17th  cent.),  after 
learning  the  valuable  secrets  of  the  old  Hizen  workshops  at 
ArUaj  produced  the  first  vitrifiable  enameled  ware  in  Ky5to,  is 
fe^uded  as  ihe  founder  of  the  industry  in  the  old  metropolis. 
Hb  first  productions  were  potted  in  the  district  of  Omuro,  at  a 
kib  called  Otowa.  whence  the  term  Omuro-yakij  by  whicn  the 
early  pieces  are  known.  Later  he  worked  at  factories  called 
Awaia,  Iwakuray  and  Mizoro,  On  the  slope  of  Otovxi-yama, 
which  is  now  crowned  bv  the  Kiyomizu  temple,  is  the  cele- 
heated  Kiyomizvr-zaka,  which  soon  after  Ninsei^ s  time  became, 
ttd  has  remained,  a  center  for  the  manufacture  of  ceramics. 
Awata,  where  the  Kinkozan  potteries  are  located,  is  about  \  M. 
totbB  N.;  Mizoro  is  4  M.  to  the  N.W.  of  this,  and  I'uxilcuTa*2.\ 
IL  N.  of  Mizoro.  The  remarkably  rapid  development  ol  Vliokfi 


t?cUv  SATSUMA-WARE 

Ky5to  faience  during  the  latter  half  of  the  17th  cent,  ie 
due  to  the  impetus  ^ven  to  it  by  Ninsei,  *  In  his  hanc 
came  an  object  of  rare  beauty.  The  surface  of  choice  sp 
of  his  handiwork  conveys  the  impression  of  being  oovei 
very  fine  netting,  rather  than  with  a  tracenr  of  intersectii 
Its  appearance  is  aptly  described  by  the  (Jhinese  term  " 
crackle."  His  monochrome  glazes  are  scarcely  less  remi 
He  produced  many  charming  tints,  and  his  skill  as  a  i 
was  scarcely  less  than  his  mastery  of  mechanical  details. ' 
no  name  more  renowned  in  the  catalogue  of  Japanese  cei 
and  none  has  been  more  extensively  counterfeited.'  ( 
specimens  of  Ninseir-yaki  are  extremely  rare,  and  when 
come  into  the  market,  native  collectors  stand  ready  to  pa 
more  for  them  than  the  usual  run  of  foreign  travelers  ^ 
(6)  Satsuma-Ware,  a  beautifully  decorated  crackle 
remarkable  for  its  soft  mellow  tint  and  its  rich  gold  and 
ornamentations,  known  to  most  collectors  as  the  mof 
able  faience  in  E.  Asia,  is  now  often  referred  to  as  Awa 
from  the  similarity  of  the  wares  and  from  the  circui 
that  some  of  the  finest  work  is  produced  at  the  es 
pottery  of  Sohei  Kinkozan,  in  the  Awata  district,  at 
Its  introduction  in  Japan  is  associated  with  the  exf 
to  Korea  of  Shimazu  Yoshihisaj  Daimyd  of  Satsum 
on  his  retimi  to  his  own  country  in  1598,  brought  wit! 
number  of  Korean  potters,  gave  them  the  rank  of  samm 
settled  them  in  Kagoshima  (in  Satsuma  Province)  and  i 
places.  The  first  generation  of  these  immigrants  manuf: 
only  Raku-yaki  (see  p.  ccliii.)  In  due  time  Kyoto  took  1 
in  the  manufacture  of  what  is  known  to  most  Westei 
Satsuma-ware,  and  after  Nomura  Ninsei  applied  its 
tive  character  to  it,  it  became  the  principal  ware  of 
Several  gfeat  names  in  the  annals  of  the  fictile  arts  wc 
nected  with  the  production  of  this  ware  during  the  11 
18th  centuries,  and  several  decorative  styles  were  inti 
and  carried  to  remarkable  perfection  and  refinemen 
record  of  the  present  manufacturers  commences  with 
Tokvemorif  who  began  work  at  Awata  in  1693.  *It  was 
the  time  of  Kagiya  Moheij  the  3d  generation,  that  the 
acquired  a  wide  reputation.  This  artist  succeeded 
famer's  business,  and  in  1756  he  had  so  distinguished 
as  to  be  appointed  potter  to  the  Tokugawa  Court  in  Y< 
connection  with  this  honor  he  received  the  name  of  Kir 
which  he  thenceforth  stamped  upon  his  best  pieces,  am 
was  similarly  used  by  his  successors.  The  manuf acturei 

»  The  Kinkozan  Pottbrt  with  its  77  kihis  is  perhaps  one  of 
places  for  the  traveler  interested  in  the  subject  to  study  the  prooett 
ufacture  and  decoration.  The  showrooms  (Englksh  spcuc^  contain 
coUectioA  of  modem  wares  and  a  few  ancient  specimens  of  interevi 
QuanaoB.  The  clay  employed  in  making  the  ware  comes  from  8 
in  Omi  Province, 


SAIBUMA-WARE  .tfoiT 

rmoieiitative  of  the  family  have  esmed  miSMroiiB 
aoa  oertifioates  at  exhibitions  at  home  and  abroad. 
tffilga  family  carried  the  enameled  decoration  of  KylMiO 
to  Its  hidiest  point  of  richness  and  brilliancy.  Friar  to 
ne-^  AvxUa  glase  had  be^i  of  a  somewhat  cold,  halrd 
er.  but  in  their  hands  its  color  changed  from  graytah 
)  light  huS,  and  it  assumed  an  aspect  of  great  amoacf 
baesB.  To  this  warm,  creamy  ground  a  wealth  of  gold^ 
sen.  and  blue  enamek  was  api^ed^  the  result  ming 

bably  rich  and  mellow.'      — ^ 

doubtful  if  any  similar  Japanese  ware  excels  the 
•dav  Satsuma  or  Awaia-yaki  m  decorative  ezcellencei 
I  toe  finest  pieces  vie  with  the  old  Satsumanware  in 
'  of  tone,  and  the  mazy,  crackled  surf accj  coupled  with 
iderf ul  ammel  effects  secured  by  the  pure  gold  and 
a^  enrichments,  appeal  so  strcoigly  to  poroelainists 
w  if  any  collections  of  importance  lack  one  or  more 
!B  of  what  mipht  be  termed  Japan's  most  national  ware. 
Id  be  borne  m  mind,  however,  that  despite  the  great 
of  pieces  of  so-call^  genuine  old  Satsuma  sold  eacb 
Tapan,  very  few  Western  collections  contain  representa* 
dmens.  It  has  been  pointed  out  that  not  more  'Uian  a 
ieoes  of  legitimate  old  Satsuma  have  come  into  the 
during  the  last  20  yrs.,  and  that  more  than  half  of  these 
en  bought  in  by  native  collectors  at  absurdly  hieh 
Few  travelers,  for  instance,  can  distinguish  the  finest 
mki,  or  even  Iwakwraryakiy  from  real  Satsuma.  Tlie 
ce,  lustrous  glaze,  and  the  almost  microscopic  crackle  of 
Y  pieces  are  reproduced  with  extraordinary  fidelity  in 
em  ware,  as  is  the  same  red,  green,  purple,  gold,  black, 
md  Prussian  blue  in  the  decoratiiihs.  ShouM  tne  prao- 
B  fail  to  differentiate  the  old  from  the  new,  it  is  a  satich 
to  know  that  to  the  average  Occidental,  many  of  the 
pieces  are  more  beautiful  thim  the  earlier  ones.  Cap^ 
rudey  says  that  all  the  choice  pieces  potted  prior  to  1868 
1  or  of  medium  size,  and  that  copsequently  all  the  large 
g  examines  included  in  many  Western  collections  are 
m  manufacture.  As  a  rule  the  b€»t  pieces  show  a  pdle 
Srain  almost  as  hard  as  porcelain  biscuit^  while  the 
OS,  albdt  they  may  bear  chaste  and  beautiful  decora- 
e  usually  made  of  a  chalky,  porous  pdte.  In  the  latter 
Ide  (which  is  produced  intentionally),  instead  of  being 
hairiike,  has  rather  the  appearance  of  fissures  —  and 
t  resemoles  the  older  Chmese  craqjieU  faience.  "Die 
3  call  this  crackled  clay  ware  Hib^^^akij  and  they 
IB  its  manufacture  a  glaze  of  feldspar  with  leached 
ieB|Whioh  assimilate  with  the  glazing  material,  making 
MMxiuable. 
Illf^wei  IS  a  noteworthy  diff^ar^ce  in  tiae  .Siiitesaiiu^ 


cclTi  KIYOMIZU-WARE 

manufactured  for  export  and  that  for  the  home  mafket 
Japanese  connoisseurs  will  not  buy  the  former,  and  tlie 
traveler  will  generally  get  better  value  for  his  money  in  buying 
such  pieces  as  carry  ornamentation  liked  by  the  natives.  One 
will  generally  find,  in  examining  an  object  painted  for  tiie 
foreign  market,  that  however  much  labor  has  been  bestowed 
on  the  body  of  the  piece,  the  less  prominent  portions  are  Bomo* 
what  defective,  and  whereas  lusterless  pigments  predommate 
on  certain  of  tne  modem  examples,  the  decoration  of  tiie  old 
and  of  the  finest  work  consists  of  pure,  jewel-like  enamds.  So 
much  of  this  decoration  is  so  exquisitely  fijie  and  complicated 
that  it  has  to  be  done  with  a  powerful  magnifying  ^buas,  and 
casual  buyers  neither  see  nor  look  for  imperfections.  The  njoie 
intricate  the  decoration,  the  greater  the  accuracy  of  executioOf 
and  the  more  skillful  the  iise  of  the  proper  enamels,  the  hi|^ 
is  the  ()rice  demanded  for  a  piece.  ^Evidences  of  a^  in  a  pieee 
of  Satsumarware  are  of  all  things  the  most  deceptive,  anaaoy 
piece  which  has  the  cracks  filled  with  what  at  first  bludi  nu^ 
suggest  the  accumulated  dust  of  years  should  be  rejected. 
Tnturation  with  dirt,  steeping  in  strong  infusions  of  tea,  expo- 
sure to  the  fumes  of  damp  incense,  boiling  in  decoctions  cod* 
taining  sulphuric  acid,  etc.,  are  methods  not  unusually  eiD- 
ploved  by  untrustworthy  dealers.  In  some  districts,  notably 
m  Owari,  counterfeit  Satsuma  is  made  openly,  and  the  pefpe* 
trators  of  the  fraud  do  not  hesitate  to  adopt  any  plan  to  make 
the  deception  more  complete.  Medicated  and  begrimed  speci- 
mens of  this  ware  are  successfully  palmed  off  on  imsuspediDI 
foreigners  to  an  incredible  extent,  and  will  probably  continue 
to  find  purchasers  so  long  as  men  are  sanguine  enou^  to  fancy 
that  the  longHsince  depleted  curio-market  still  contains  trea- 
sures accessible  to  themselves  alone,  and  so  long  as  the  dis- 
figurements of  age  and  the  blemishes  of  wear  find  people  tdio 
regard  them  as  beauties.  The  decoration  of  some  ra  these 
pieces  is  so  coarse  that  it  does  not  assort  ill  with  patches  of 
grime  and  stains  of  lye  added  to  simulate  antiquity.'  (BrvnkUif*) 
(c)  The  Kitomizu-Ware,  under  which  term  wares  other 
than  those  produced  at  Avxita,  Iwakura^  and  Mvsoro  are 
classed,  comprises  many  beautiful  examples  of  ceramic  art 
The  first  recorded  potter  of  Kiyomizu  faience  was  SeSbd 
YoJiyo,  who  established  himself  at  Gojo-zaka  about  1690,  and 
whose  pottery  was  moved  to  the  Kiyomizu  district  betmon 
1781  and  1788.  Here,  at  a  later  date,  the  first  porcelain  eivff 
produced  in  Kyoto  was  made.  The  scores  of  kilns,  which  nofV 
stud  the  district,  produce  such  a  variety  of  wares  that  a  book 
would  be  needed  to  catalogue  them.  Here  the  travels  will 
find  attractive  blue-and-white  porcelains  in  an  infinity^  of 
dbapes;  lovely  celadon  ware;  pieces  with  beautiful  aubeitpiM^ 
^zirguoise,  yellow,  coral^  and  other  glazes;  innumerable  eoBj  < 
eeite  of  shape  and  vanetiea  of  faience,  and  of  gUuted  tfd  I 


KOHAMA  AND  ITS  ENVIRONS       t.  RmOe.    8 
I.  Yokohama  and  its  Environs. 

a.  Practical  Notes. 

by  Sea.  Ships  of  certain  of  the  lines  dock  alongside  the  New  Cua- 
y  (consult  t^e  accompanying  plan,  H,  5) ;  others  anchor  in  the  inner 
hout  1  M.  from  the  Customs  Pier  (or  the  English  Hatoba),  on 
>y  land  passengers  free.  Those  which  stop  a  week  or  more  to  unload 
trgoes  often  tie  up  at  the  pier  —  the  accommodations  at  which  are 
Quarantine  officers  board  ships  before  they  can  enter  the  harbor, 
lem  pratique.  Asiatics  and  steerage  passengers  are  more  carefully 
than  others.  Launches  from  the  most  prominent  hotels,  and 
t^)  EnglishHspeaking  runners  meet  incoming  ships  to  take  charge 
gers'  luggage,  transfer  it  to  the  custom-house,  pass  it  (usually  more 
and  satisfactorily  than  the  traveler  can  in  person)  j  and  deliver  it 
2  hra.)  at  the  hotel  (customary  charge  for  the  inclusive  service  ¥2; 
en  there  are  many  trunks).  Messrs.  Helm  Bros  (p.  7)  will  attend 
flsing  and  delivering  of  luggage  to  residence  or  rly.  station,  and  to 
ig,  bonding,  packing,  and  shipping  of  baggage  or  merchandise.  The 
Examination  (room  near  the  landing)  is  rapid,  courteous,  and 
ee  p.  xziv).  Each  piece  of  baggage  must  be  chalked  by  an  inspector 
can  pass  the  outer  gate. 

}t  couriers  from  tourist-  and  shipping-agencies;  respresentatives  of 
hinese  tailors,  money-changers,  etc.,  me^t  arriving  travelers  to 
nr  patronage.  It  is  usually  wise  to  defer  purchases  until  one  is  sure 
;>utation  of  the  merchants  and  of  the  goods  they  offer.  The  pettv 
Q  who  display  their  wares  (usually  low  grade)  on  the  ship's  decs 
x>rt  ask  more  than  they  expect  to  receive;  better  goods  can  usually 
t  for  less  money  at  the  reputable  shops  on  shore.  Belated  travelers 
loy  sampans  {kobune  —  '  baby  ship ')  from  the  ship  to  shore  should 
tari^dn  (25  sen  per  person  is  ample)  with  the  boatman  {sendd)  be- 
aikmg  (not  recommended  at  night  or  in  stormy  weather).  In  all 
hotel  launch  is  preferable.  Strangers  will  wish  to  remember  that 
■k  Hatoba  (PI.  F,  4)  is  not  used  as  a  landing-place  by  searsoing  ships 
:gers therefrom.  Storm  signals  are  displaycKl  here,  and  from  it  the 
lal-gun  is  fired.  Hotel  Omnibuses  sometimes  wait  near  the  entrance 
3r,  but  the  distance  to  the  chief  hotels  is  so  short  that  Jinrikis  (see 
e  usually  employed.  Tram-cars  do  not  run  near  them.  —  On  step- 
>re  the  traveler  finds  the  .  Foreign  Settlement  with  its  counting- 
lOtels,  shops,  etc.,  at  the  left;  the  Japanese  Town  (straight  ahead 
New  Customs  Quay)  and  the  Yokohama  Rly.  Station  (It  M.  from 
i  Hotd;  beyond  the  extreme  end  of  Honcha-dori,  across  the  canal, 
it  the  right. 

s  (p.  Ixxxviii)  take  the  place  of  cabs  and  are  stationed  in  many 
ihe  city.  As  certain  of  the  men  mshonestly  charge  strangers  absurd 
tentimes  ¥1  or  ¥1.50  from  the  landing-place  to  the  hotel)  one  should 
ihe  price,  but  should  contrive  to  hand  over  the  correct  fare.^  The 
nager  will  arbitrate  complaints.  Overcharging  should  be  resisted, 
sot  fare  from  the  landing-stage  to  the  Grand  Hotel  or  the  Pleasanton 
•  to  the  Oriental  Palace,  the  H<ael  Belmont,  or  the  Club  Hotel,  10 
thama  Station,  20  sen  (5  sen  more  froin  the  New  Customs  Quay  to 
5,  and  5  sen  less  to  the  rly.  station) ;  hand-luggage  included.  Same 
Eh  jinriki  filled  with  baggage.  The  customary  fee  for  a  run  anywhere 
•reign  Settlement  between  the  boundaries  formed  by  the  Creek,  the 
d  Satsumarchd  (consult  the  plan)  is  10  sen :  from  the  Orand  Hotel  to 
or  Benten-d6ri,  15  sen;  to  the  rly.  station,  20-30  sen.  From  any 
he  Settlement  to  the  top  of  the  Bluff*(Pl.  F,  4),  15-20  sen,  with  5  sen 
the  pushman.  To  the  far  end  of  the  Bluff,  25  sen.  Race-course,  40- 
■'arbs  are  rising  steadily,  and  where  the  men  are  not  held  in  check  by 
i  regulations  their  demands  are  frequently  unreasonable.  While  the 
schedule  (apt  to  change),  bjr  time,  is  accepted  in  Yokohama,  it  is 
to  reach  an  understanding  with  the  Jinriki-man  before  employing 
'  a  run  of  less  than  5  minutes,  10  sen;  over  5  and  up  to  15  mln.,20 
f  4hr:,9K)  M» ;  1  hr. ,  30-50  sen ;  for  the  2d  hr. ,  20  sen;  i  day,  ¥1 ;  1  day , 
W.  Fbr  an  extra  man  add  about  86%  to  the  foregoing;  in  biA 


b 


YOKOHAMA 


Imvl)  sn  OQ  hiro  aX  Cbe  balala  sail  gnnues:  Ih«pn>- 
Itb  a  miDmum  Dhorge  of  ¥15.  Maay  deUfthtfulDiia 

Ban  sjlii  chaj-m    Couiull  Ihe  holel  muugu  Is 

hired  SI  nns  of  Ihe  Heveml  livery  aublei:  rilcli 
WD  the  Bleaa  or  landios,  or  ily.  HCation.  Boit  biMi 
¥4    L  ilay  ¥6    Double  viotoiiu,  ¥6-8;  imti. 

Ddcooc;  CitwilbTBkyCDLUioE.Bnlirilk 
V     Tbey  ufTonl  Ihe  e<:am>micsl  travaleikgliaie 

t  \okohaiaB  hoColB  sre  under  Anoieui. 

r    i!Budaut^ri!°s^BhoiSdbe^aD[iir 
^fewmn   walk  of  the  Derve-oentsr  ol  Uh 

_     .  __    ,    a  anose  city  5-10  of  the  slemaer  lajuling;  mil  IB 

..Ji  of  the  rly  MulioD 
■Omnd   Hold    lid     lS-20  Bund  CP)    F,  4)j  Tel.  ad..  '  Gnuid':  lUao- 

luod  tliB-world  traveleti!     Bucellont  ouiaine;  broad   gliiieitji 

rlookms  the  sea  feiquuute  viawB),  Orebefltra  duiinf  dioian 

iiireau   flower-eanjen  af1«TUtji>D  Ida;  oatnuice  fram  the  Bmn 

orlrom  Wiil«r8t.  Pcipulsrwitha]]<ilusa:ieepmii»iulsd.  ThoduiiH,bw- 

tun»  of  the  awful  bfe  of'tb^e  11011.°  ^^  roomB  from  ¥7  lo  ¥12  a  day;  dnUl 
moms,  ¥14  to¥18;nithbBth,¥I8foirlpen.;¥21for2.  SuiteaCtednxD. 
parlor,  aod  private  batb),  ¥18  to  ¥32  lor  1  pen..  ¥32  tn  ¥25  for  3.  Wlun 

♦OrioUai  Poiwe  HUet,  11  Bund  (PI.  F,,4);  Te!.  ad,,  '  Oriental  ■;  lU^ 

BM^Bith  broad'  view8!''^nlM^  ^I'^Mr  St.  and  froiii 
Much  fnnuented  by  titled  Contineotab  and  oCben:  bigbly 
eomroeEided.  —  Rates  from  ¥7  and  upward,  ar^coidiiif  to  loouuuu  n  luu^f 
apecial  terma  by  the  week  or  month.  Sbttea-de-fuva  widi  aitting-room,  bfttk, 
Obd  imvale  verauda.  Garage;  mfanoaTJOD  buraaa;  afternoon  tea;  oaeclnu 
Both  of  the  foragoine  botelB  am  ranked  by  travelen  aa  amoiiE  the  bttt  E, 
n(  nniro  nmnihiia  In  nr  frnm  tho  rlv.  «.atinn.  ¥1 :  baggiwe  to  at  fcom  tOf 
60  .971  eaeh  for  (naki 

Hotel  BelmoU.'  i, 
iodpni"'rT,^,'hn,.[ 


Engileb-AmfiriDan   m. 


Chib  HoM.  Ltd..  5  Bu 
Club;  Xa  »d.,  ■  Club  E 

Quiet,   Bomfortable   unpi _.  „  ._. 

^ood  CDokioft.  The  beat  rDambJbea  the  Bund.  Ratee  froi 

.p.,,roan)  an  ,    oa       "^  L,^Ji'by  CaBadianBTAus 

.  .flrvlco.   RficominendBd . 

Pltaaanim,  adjoimuE  tbe  ffrand   Hofsf;  Tet.  ad..  ' 
id  board  from  ¥5  iDd  u.pvjaid.  CqmiQt\^\ft.  M.Qder 
manaaBDienl  and  plou.  Well  apokm  oi. 
WSle  eertaJQ  of  the  other  hoWla  no  do-dH.  oBbi  ^"^  urmr,' 
mbave  Use  wiJI  periutps  611  the  aveiaee  wmstei' « tattjiiiBioBD.' 


under  Amer 


LITERATURE  cclix 

Japanese  than  the  English  of  Chaucer  does  from  modem 
English. 

The  Oenji  MonogcUari^  a  famous  novel  regarded  as  a  model  of  the  claaaical 
Japanese  of  the  Heian  period,  was  written  by  a  woman,  Murattaki  ('  pur^ 
pie  ')  ShikibUf  and  is  supposed  to  have  been  completed  in  a.d.  1004.  Legend 
associates  it  and  its  composer  with  the  Temple  of  Ishi-yama,  at  the  S.  end 
of  Lake  Biwa,  where  the  chamber  in  which  the  book  is  supposed  to  have 
been  written,  along  with  the  ink-slab,  are  shown.  The  gist  of  the  54  books 
(with  4234  pages)  has  been  translated  into  English  by  several  authors, 
but  since  it  treats  merely  of  life  and  society  in  Kydto  during  that  remote 
period,  foreigners  find  it  of  little  interest.  The  Makura  Zoahi,  or  'Pillow 
Sketches,*  of  Set  Sfidnagoiit  which  the  Japanese  associate  with  the  Genji 
Monogatari.  and  consider  equally  excellent,  was  written  about  the  same 
time,  and  also  by  a  lady  of  rank.  The  st^le  of  this  work  afterwards  became 
popular  in  Japan  under  the  name  Zuihttau  or  *  following  the  pen.*  Albeit 
enthusiastic  Japanologists  purport  to  find  much  of  interest  in  the  dreary 
Inographies,  classical  romances,  Buddhist  diaries,  and  miscellaneous  literary 
oompoaitions  oi  the  early  writers.  Prof.  Basil  Hall  Chamberlain,  perh&pa 
the  greatest  authority  on  such  matters,  says:  *  What  Japanese  literature 
most  lacks  is  genius,  thought,  logical  grasp,  depth,  breadth,  and  manysided- 
ness.  It  has  occasional  graces,  and  is  full  of  mcidental  scientific  interest.* 
That  not  a  few  Japanese  excel  as  story-writers  is  shown  by  the  following 
narratives.  — 

The  Fishtt-bc^:  'Fourteen  hundred  and  sixteen  years  ago,  the  fisher- 
boy  Uraahima  Tard  left  Hie  shore  of  Suminoye  in  his  boat.  Summer  days 
were  then  as  now,  —  all  drowsy  and  tender  blue,  with  only  some  light,  pure 
white  clouds  hanging  over  tiie  mirror  of  the  sea.  Then,  too,  were  the  hills 
the  same,  —  far  blue  soft  shapes  melting  into  the  blue  aky.  And  the  winds 
were  lazy.  And  preaenUjr  the  boy,  also  lazy,  let  his  boat  drift  as  he  fished. 
It  was  a  qucOT  boat,  unpainted  and  rudderless,  of  a  shape  you  probably  never 
flaw.  But  still,  alter  fourteen  hundred  years,  there  are  such  boats  to  be  seen 
in  front  of  the  ancient  fishing-hamlets  of  the  coast  of  the  Sea  of  Japan.  ^ 

'  After  long  waitmg,  Uraahima  caught  something,  and  drew  it  up  to  him. 
But  he  found  it  was  only  a  tortoise.  Now  a  tortoise  is  sacred  to  the  Dragon 
God  of  the  Sea,  and  tiie  period  of  its  natural  life  is  a  thousand  —  some  say 
ten  thousand  —  years.  So  that  to  kill  it  is  very  wrong.  The  boy  gently 
unfastened  the  creature  fntwn  his  line,  and  set  it  free,  with  a  prayer  to  the  gods. 
But  he  cp""^^  nothing  more.  And  the  day  was  very  warm;  and  sea  and  air 
and  all  th  <vere  very,  very  silent.  And  a  great  drowsiness  grew  upon  him, 
—  and  he  a.^pt  in  his  drifting  boat. 

'  Then  out  of  the  dreaming  of  the  sea  rose  up  a  beautiful  girl,  —  Just  aa 
you  can  see  her  in  Prdessor  Chamberlain's  "  Urashima,'*  —  robed  in  orim- 
8on  and  blue,  whh  long  black  hair  flowing  down  her  back  even  to  her  feet, 
after  the  fashion  of  a  pnnce's  daughter  fourteen  hundred  years  ago.  Gliding 
over  the  waters  she  came,  softly  as  air;  and  she  stood  above  the  sleeping  boy 
in  the  boat,  and  woke  him  with  a  light  touch,  and  said:  —  "Do  not  be  sur- 
prised. My  father,  the  Dragon  King  of  the  Sea,  sent  me  to  you,  because 
of  your  kind  heart.  For  to-day  you  set  free  a  tortoise.  And  now  we  will  go 
to  my  father's  palace  in  the  island  where  summer  never  dies;  and  I  will  be 
your  flower-wife  if  you  wish:  and  we  shall  live  there  happily  forever." 

'  And  Uraahima  wondered  more  and  more  as  he  looked  upon  her;  for  she 
was  more  beautiful  than  any  human  being,  and  he  could  not  but  love  her. 
Then  she  took  one  oar  and  he  took  another,  and  they  rowed  away  together  — 
Just  as  you  may  still  see,  off  tiie  far  western  coast,  wife  and  husband  rowing 
together,  when  the  fiddng-boats  flit  into  the  evening  gold.  They  rowed  away 
Boftly  and  swiftly  over  tiie  silent  blue  water  down  into  the  south,  —  till  they 
came  to  the  island  where  summer  never  dies,  —  and  to  the  palace  of  the 
Dragon  King  of  the  Sea. 

'  [Here  the  tert  of  the  little  book  suddenly  shrinks  away  as  you  read,  and 
faint  blue  ripplinga  flood  the  page;  and  beyond  them  in  a  fairy  horizon  yon 
can  see  tb^  latghwaoftAon  of  the  island,  and  peaked  roofs  raisine  througlh 


LITERATURE 


—  plfiuures  of  that  enchnntod  land  where  *i .  _^„„  „ 

vEiUB  paased.  But  in  epite  ol  all  tbses  things,  tbe  GiihB>boy  felt  bIvu*  > 
hesvinon  at  bia  heart  when  he  thought  of  his  parent!  waiting  alaoe.  So  tliat 
at  laa  be  prayed  hie  bride  id  let  him  go  home  Cor  a  Uttle  while  only,  jim  to 
way  one  word  to  bia  father  and  mother.  —  after  which  he  would  haaton  back 

'  At  tboH  worda  aha  be^n  to  weep :  and  for  a  long  time  die  conliaued  to 
Bcep  ailBDtly,  Then  abe  aaid  to  bim :  "  Sines  you  wiah  to  go.  of  coune  vdu 

•gMB.  But  I  win  nvB  you  a  little  bqi  to  uke  with  you.  It  will  help  you  to 
eomB  luok  lo  mo  S^ou  will  do  what  I  tell  you.  Do  not  open  it.,  Abov«  al 

^ea  ahe  gare  bim  abttle  lao^uemd  box' tied  about  with  a  nilltEn  card.  [And 
Ujat  ban  can  be  aeen  unto  tbii  day  in  tbe  temple  of  Kanae1^fw.  by  tlipna- 
Bbon;ajid  the  priests  there  alio  keep  VrashiTna  7ard'i  fiBhine-line.  aodiomg 
atraage  iewebi  which  he  brought  back  witb  him  from  the  realm  of  tbi 

'  But  Urmhima  comforted  bii  brido,  and  promised  her  never,  never  ID 
open  tbe  boi  ^  oeverETen  In  loosen  tbe  Bilken  Btring.  Then  bepaaaedami/ 
through  tbe  summer  light  over  tbe  ever-vleepinEwa;  —  and  the  ahape  of  the 
ialand  where  ftummer  never  dies  faded  behind  him  like  a  dream;  -^aad  be 
oaw  iigain  before  him  tbe  blue  mountains  of  Japan.  Bharpening  in  tbe  vhile 
glow  of  ihe  northern  hoiiion. 

'Agvn  at  laat  be  alided  into  hts  native  bay;  —  a^a  he  trtood  upon  iU 
beaeh.  But  >a  be  looked,  there  came  upon  bun  a  great  bewilderment.  —  a 
winrd  doubt.  For  the  place  was  at  o  neo  the  same,  and  vet  not  tbe  same.  The 
Dottaga  of  his  father  bad  diaappeared.  There  was  a  village^  hut  the  shapes  ol 
the  hdueee  were  all  strange,  and  the  trees  were  strange,  and  tbe  fields,  and 
even  the  faces  of  the  jjeople.  NcarLy  all  remembered  landmarks  were  gout; 
— the  SAinlfCeimphi  appeared  lobnvo  been  rebuilt  in  a  new  place:  the  woods 
hadvanisbedfromtheneiehbDringElopei,  Only  Che  voie*  of  the  litUe^tiMO 
flowing  through  tbe  settlement^  and  the  forms  of  the  jpi  ■^^■''^^".^iiOiOgy.^ 

'There  earns  along  a  very  old  man,  leaning  on  i"g  in  commumtks 
Mfcodhlmthe  way  W  the  bouse  of  the  Urasbimafj.H  of  the  IbIiukI  the 

looked  qml«  salomsbed,  and  made  him  repeat  t*  lUo   Ini-_J   a *_ 

andthen  cried  out:  — -'Urasfti™  Tar6l  Wim.  '  jne  Iniand  bea  tO 
you  do  not  knoB  the  story!  UroMma  TarX  ^1  the  first  capital  at 
hundred  j^oara  ainoe  he  was  drowned,  and  a  of  fighting  are  emd  to 
yaH,'^  Se''o!#^Si'!;'rd  J^ilt^WZ^'n,  ^^^J  ^^5  then  peopled 

Tare.'  How  can  you  be  so  foolish  Bs  to  ask    to  tMiT  present  habitat 

Id  man  hobbled  on,  la  -■-- ■  -  --    " 


'  But  Urathima  went  to  the  village  grave^  ^„.  -----  i„^ „  ,    .    ., 

sas  not  used  any  more,  —  and  there  be  '<n^^?5p^       j      satiafaotonlv 

wn.  Sooldthey  w.'';'['.f''"""';l''T'lSalilwai 

»  upon  them,    Tb  ™  .'^".'^Sw  bimself  Lhe  victim 
Id  bo  took  bia  way  .".'g  to  the  beach,  —  alwaj-a 


le  had  known.  So  old  th 


was  this  illueionT  And  what  could  be  in  that  box?  Or  niight  not  that  which 
wasin  the  boibetheeauseol  tbe  illusion?  Douhl  mastered  faith.  Recklessly 
iwhrfike  (he  promise  to  hifl  beloved;  he  loosened  tbe  silken  cord;  —  he  opened 


tela,  tb*  boy  Vrathtma  of  Muijunoyt, 
rion  of  Tuico,  B  dcHOi'DdBSt  uf  tht 
B  In  B  lUiiBa-boai."  Afior  thia  th<n 
t  lb*  nffln  of  ihJny-OD«  enipcfon  And 


ri:^T.n 

cAi»o,  in  vhf  n-iiin  of  the 

and   prewntiy  departed 

Forirg  of  Ike  JaavuH. 

hm/th,Ba.. 

I  MO  than  lived  wniDnhBre  uaona  tho 
iwUa.  They  w^rc  very  old,  uidbul  DO 

itakme  to  iiit 

luTPSttoculwood.  whUe 

l^theoldn 

lan  went  farther  into  the 

owUin  kind  c 

>f  woo<l :  sod  ha  luddsnly 

3;?'.St 

]  never  aren  befora.    The 
rati- :  for  the  day  WM  hot, 

dolled  bis  grc 

at  >tr>»  hat,  knelt  down. 

t  of  hie  face  i 

uf  a  very  young  mul  Ha 

IP  botli  hand 

a  U>  hii  haul,  -yeh  bkd 

r«lwithtbiokblMkh^. 

f  full'ornew'wS^E"  H»  ■t»«d  in 
Hill  BO  loTiK  wiUieTerrby  age:  (hay  nn 

irau^ht  hftd  1 

1  he  ran  boma  toMer  than 

'hea'h^entl^  hla  houH  hi*  vilo  ou 

and  whaoba  told  baitbB 

ldm"But*Ift 

•arsr.-^'-raii'a: 

she  DOW  WW 

apring  was,  and  aaked  bar  to  go  tlun 

L's-ftSd-dtesa 

M  S^™  " 

.ever  do  for  1. 

oth  of  into  be  SWAT  from 

wait  hfl«  wh 

ilvlgo."  And  aba  lU  to 

ccbrii  HISTORY 

went  to  Yedo,  ~-  probably  as  a  retainer  in  the  train  of  the  LoitiB  of  EcktaoL 
On  hia  return  he  brought  presents  from  the  capital,  —  sweet  oakes  and  %w 
for  the  little  girl  (at  least  so  the  artist  tells  us),  and  for  his  wife  a  minv 
.  of  silvered  bronse.  To  the  young  mother  that  mirror  seemed  avery  woodeiw 
thing;  for  it  was  tiie  first  mirror  ever  brought  to  Matauyama.  She  did  mA 
understand  the  use  of  it,  and  innocently  asked  whose  was  the  pretty  anilby 
face  she  saw  inside  it.  When  her  husband  answered  her,  laughing,  Wli3r,it 
is  your  own  face!  How  foolish  you  are!  she  was  ashamed  to  ask  any  man 
questions,  but  hastened  to  put  the  present  away,  still  thinking  it  to  be  a  rvf 
mysterious  thing.  And  she  kept  it  hidden  many  years,  —  the  original  rtay 
does  not  say  why.  Perhaps  for  the  simple  reason  that  in  all  countries  Ion 
makes  even  the  most  trifling  gift  too  sacred  to  be  shown.  But  in  the  time  n 
her  last  sickness  she  gave  the  mirror  to  her  daughter,  sayinjs,  "After  Ian 
dead  you  must  look  into  this  mirror  every  morning  and  evening,  and  you  wiu 
see  me.  Do  not  grieve."  Then  she  died.  And  the  girl  thereafter  loocedinto 
tiie  mirror  every  morning  and  evening,  and  did  not  know  that  the  face  in  (iK 
mirror  was  her  own  shadow,  —  but  thought  it  to  be  that  of  her  d^ui  mo^i 
whom  she  much  resembled .  So  she  would  talk  to  the  shadow ,  having  the  leB* 
sation,  or,  as  the  Japanese  original  more  tenderly  says,  "  having  the  husj> 
of  meeting  her  mother  "  day  by  day;  and  she  prised  the  mirror  above  tU 
things.  At  last  her  father  noticed  this  conduct,  and  thought  it  steange,  9» 
asked  her  the  reason  of  it,  whereupon  she  told  him  all.  "  Then,*'  says  the  oU 
Japanese  narrator,  "  he  thinking  it  to  be  a  very  piteous  thing,  his  eyes  fN* 
dark  with  tears."  '   {Lajcadw  Beam.) 

XVI.  Historical  Sketch. 

It  is  customary  to  speak  of  Japanese  history  as  beginnioS 
with  the  accession  to  the  throne  of  Iioare- Hiko-no-Mtkelo 
(known  canonically  as  Jimmu  Tenno,  or  'Emperor  of  Di^nnfl 
Valor  Oj  who  is  said  to  have  been  5th  in  descent  fioni 
AmaterasurO-Mi- Kami  (Sun-Goddess,  or  *Heaven-IlluDai" 
nating  Great  August  Deity  Oj  to  have  reigned  from  B.C.  660 
to  585;  to  have  founded  the  present  Une  of  mikados,  and  to 
have  Uved  127  yrs.  Before  his  time  was  the  Age  of  Myl^olo^/ 
The  Japanese  believe  that  immediately  prior  to  B.C. 
Jimmu  and  his  followers  invaded  Kyushu  and  found  it  peo^ 
by  mixed  races  organized  into  tribes  dwelling  in  conmiumtieB 
ruled  by  headmen.  After  taking  possession  of  the  island  tiw 
heaven-sent  conquerors  advanced  across  the  Inland  Sea  to 
Naniwa  (now  Osaka) ,  and  established  the  first  capital  t^ 
Kashiwabaraj  near  Nara.  Centuries  of  fighting  are  said  to 
have  been  necessary  to  subdue  the  AinUy  who  then  peopled 
the  Main  Island,  and  to  drive  them  to  their  present  iiaJi)itat 
in  Yezo. 

The  riddle  of  the  origin  of  the  Japanese  Jias  never  been  satisfactorily 
explained  and  may  never  be  solved.  Some  coi4sider  them  descendants  frOB 
the  builders  of  the  Tower  of  Babel;  others  identify  them  with  TunuMhAlri- 
cans  who  traveled  E.  through  Egypt,  China,  knd  Korea;  still  others  reeo^ 
nize  in  them  one  of  the  lost  tribes  of  Israel;  while  there  are  not  lacldng  than 
who  regard  them  as  Malayan  colonists,  or  of  Tartar-Mongolian  etoek  frqii 
Central  Asia.  All  agree  that  they  are  not  a  pure  race,  as  they  present  i 


1  The  best  explanation  of  Japanese  mythology  will  be  found  in  the  i^ 

books  Kojiki  and  Nihongi  (which  might  be  termed  the  Japanese  BiMmJi 

truislations  from  which  have  been  made  by  Prof,  Chamberlain  (oQlKiii 

sketch  in  Things  Japaneae^  p.  223),  BrinkleVt  Aston,  QrijgUtRnn,  tiadi  '*^ 

—  to  whom  the  student  is  referred. 


HISTORY  cblxiii 

(tingaiahable  types.  *  The  Japanese  plebeian  has  a  robust  and  heavily 
oed  phsrsique,  a  dark  skin,  prominent  cheek-bonest  a  large  mouth,  a  flat 
se,  full,  straight  eyes  without  a  suspicion  of  a  slant,  and  a  receding  fore- 
aa.  The  patrician  type  is  symmetrically  and  delicately  built;  his  eom- 
ndon  varies  from  yellow  to  almost  pure  white;  his  eyes  are  narrow,  set 
liquelv  to  the  nose;  the  eyelids  heavy;  the  eyebrows  lofty;  the  mouth 
lail;  the  face  oval;  the  nose  aquiline;  the  hand  remarkably  small  and 
pple.  These  two  radicallsr  distinct  types  have  been  distinguished  by  the 
panese  themselves  ever  since  any  method  of  recording  such  distinctions 
isted.  There  has  been  no  evolution  in  this  matter.  The  theory  which 
una  to  fit  the  facts  best  is  that  the  Japanese  are  compounded  of  two  elo- 
ente  from  Central  and  Southern  Asia,  and  that  they  received  their  patri- 
in  type  from  the  former,  their  plebeian  from  the  latter.  The  Asiatic  colo- 
Bts  arrived  viA  Korea.  But  they  were  neither  Korean  nor  Chinese.  That 
ems  certain,  though  the  evidence  which  j^roves  it  cannot  be  detailed  here, 
iunese  and  Koreans  came  from  time  to  time  in  later  ages;  came  occasion- 
ly  in  great  numbers,  and  were  absorbed  into  the  Japanese  race,  leaving 
1  it  some  faint  trace  of  the  amalgamation. 

'  The  early  annals  mention  several  tides  of  immigrants  and  a  race  of  semi- 
irbarous  autochthons  who,  like  the  ancient  Athenians  and  some  other 
-neks,  are  supposed  to  have  sprung  originally  from  the  soil  on  which  they 
ved._  These  so-called  aboriginals  were  perhaps  composed  of  two  swarms  of 
olonists,  both  coming  from  Siberia,  though  their  advents  were  separated 
7  a  long  interval.  The  first,  archseologically  indicated  by  pit-dwellings 
Bd  shell-mounds  still  extant,  were  the  Koro-pohnwu,  or  "  cave-men." 
Iieyare  believed  to  be  represented  to-day  by  the  inhabitants  of  Saghalien, 
M  Kuriles  and  S.  Kamchatka.  The  second  were  the  Ainu,  a  flat-faced, 
G&yy-jawed,  hirsute  i)eople,  who  completely  drove  out  their  predecessors 
Bd  to^  pooaession  of  the  land.  The  Ainu  of  that  period  had  much  in  oom- 
ua  with  animals.  They  burrowed  in  the  ground  for  shelter;  they  recognised 

0  distinction  of  sex  in  apparel  or  of  consanguinity  in  intercourse ;  they  dad 
lemsehres  in  skins;  they  resorted  to  savagely  cruel  forms  of  punishment; 
M>y  practiced  oannibaliam;  they  used  stone  implements;  and,  unceasingly, 
Hnstmg  the  civilised  immigrants  who  subsequently  reached  the  islands, 
iqr  were  driven  N.  by  degrees,  and  finally  pushed  across  the  Tsugaru 
trait  into  the  island  of  Yezo.  That  long  struggle,  and  the  disasters  and 
ifferings  it  entailed,  radically  changed  the  nature  of  the  Ainu.  They  be- 
une  timid,  gentle,  submissive  folk;  lost  most  of  the  faculties  essential  to 
uvival  in  a  racial  contest,  and  dwindled  to  a  mere  remnant  of  semi- 
ivages,  incapable  of  progress,  indififerent  to  improvement,  and  presenting  a 
iQte  and  more  vivid  contrast  to  the  energetic,  intelligent,  and  ambitious 
iMnese.*   iBrinkley.) 

Tba  name  0  Yamato,  or  'Land  of  the  Mountains,'  given  to  the  islands  by 
inmu  Tennd  when  he  conquered  them,  is  believed  to  have  been  changed 

1  Aj>.  670  to  Nihon,  or  Dai  Nippon  C  Great  Japan ')  —  seeminglv  a  corrup- 
on  of  the  Chinese  Ji-pun,  or  Land  of  the  Sunrise.'  The  people  prefer  to 
Boalled  Nihoneae,  or  Nipponese,  rather  than  Japanese,  and  in  the  vemacu- 
fi  a  man  or  a  person  is  called  Nihon-jin,  and  the  language  Nihon-go. 

llie  middle  of  the  6th  cent.  a.d.  found  the  descendants  of  the 
rimitiye  Mongol  hordes,  who  long  before  had  mvaded  the 
laads,  cemented  into  a  comparatively  strong  and  partly 
vilized  nation,  instructed  in  agriculture  and  many  crude  but 
nful  arts;  with  a  nascent  mentality;  a  fairly  complex  social 
jsanization;  and  a  ruling  class  at  once  brave,  warlike,  indus- 
lOUB,  and  peculiarly  fitted  to  receive  the  tincture  of  hi^er 
viiization  which  the  introduction  of  Buddhism  in  552 
ought  to  them.  The  invasion  of  this  Indian  creed  marked 
IB  €l  the  most  transcendental  epochs  in  the  early  history  oi 
iiioe,  and  its  influences  still  pulse  strongly  through  the  \iie 

tfiar' nation.    The  gov't  was  remodeled  on  the  Clmieafe 


ecbriv        THE  NARA  AND  HEIAN  EPOCHS 

centralized  bureaucratic  plan,  and  in  the  course  of  time  tii0 
country  passed  from  a  relatively  rude  condition  to  a  state  of 
civilization.  Henceforth  the  history  of  Japan  (which  for  ifV 
had  been  ruled  practically  by  powerful  clans  that  had  usoned 
the  authority  of  the  mikados)  is  divided  into  epochs,  ana  ■ 
virtually  that  of  four  great  famiUes,  the  Fvjiwara^  T<ut% 
Minamoto,  and  the  Tokwgawa.  The  first  governed  througji  IJh 
emperor;  the  other  three  may  be  said  to  have  governed  in  spite 
of  him.  The  former  based  their  power  on  matrimonial  allianpa 
with  the  Throne;  the  other  three  based  theirs  on  the  possesBioii 
of  armed  strength  which  the  Throne  had  not  sufficient  poirer 
to  control.  The  progenitors  of  the  Taira  and  the  MimamiM 
were  sons  of  emperors  who  reigned  during  the  opening  yean 
of  the  9th  cent.  The  Tokugawa  were  a  branch  of  the  Af tfUMiofo* 
The  Naea  Epoch  (710-784)  derives  its  name  from  the  ci^ 
cumstance  that  the  Empress  Gemmei  (who  succeeded  Mom/nt 
Tenno)  transferred  the  Imperial  Court  to  the  district  of  Sb^ 
kami  (Yamato  Province)  and  there  had  a  town  built  whiA 
was  called  Nara  no  Miyako.  The  palace  was  called  H«^ 
C Castle  of  Peace'),  a  name  often  given  to  the  epoch.  CJobr 
trary  to  established  custom,  Gemmei^ s  successors  awelt  in  tihe 
same  place  and  Nara  thus  remained  the  Imperial  ca^Htal  da^ 
ing  the  reign  of  seven  consecutive  sovereigns,  —  or  until 
Kwammu  transferred  his  seat  of  gov't  to  Kyoto  (in  784).  H* 
74  yrs.  of  the  Nara  period  were  marked  by  extraordinary  Mil 
in  the  promotion  of  Buddhism;  seven  of  the  finest  temples  in 
Japan  were  erected,  and  among  the  multitude  of  idols  cast  was 
the  gigantic  Daibutsu  described  in  Rte.  34. 

In  712  the  Empress  Gemmei  ordered  Hieda-no-Are  (a  man  of  oueh  pnSr 

Eious  memory  that  he  could  repeat  all  the  traditions  he  had  ever  heard  vr 
atim!)  to  compile  a  histoi^  of  Japan,  and  thus  the  Kojiki,  or  *  Record  d 
Ancient  Matters,'  was  written.  In  720  another  work,  the  Nihmtgi*  ^ 
*  Chronicles  of  Nihon,'  was  completed.  Both  begin  with  the  fabulous  aMOOBl 
of  the  separation  of  heaven  and  earth;  and  end,  the  former  with  the  nip 
of  the  Empress  Suiko  (a.d.  628) ;  the  latter  with  that  of  the  Empnu  Jn 
(697).  In  view  of  the  fact  that  both  books  (which  are  merely  oollectioafd 
isolated  traditions)  were  the  £Lrst  records  of  magnitude  written  in  the  Ml 
(Chinese;  comp.  p.  cxxvi)  language,  and  that  the  period  covered  tsaupBB  froa 
about  B.C.  660  to  a.d.  697,  will  lead  most  persons  seriously  to  doubt  the  < 


tability  of  the  work,  and  to  conclude  that  Japanese  history  prior  to  the/ITfM 
Epoch  rests  upon  an  insecure  foundation.  —  The  third  main  historf  d 
Japan,  from  the  early  times  down  through  the  Middle  Ages,  is  the  Hikm 
Guaishi  ('  External  History  ')>  concluded  in  1827. 

The  Heian  (or  Kvoto)  Epoch,  which  lasted  from  the  end  d 
the  8th  to  the  middle  of  the  12th  cent.,  was  one  of  the  moil 
picturesque  periods  of  the  nation's  life;  during  it  thenatni 
civilization  assumed  many  of  the  exterior  features  admired  bi 
foreigners  in  modem  times.  By  the  middle  of  the  8th  OBQi 
the  Fujiwara  were  in  control  of  affairs,  and  the  Tnilrmio^y  trpH 
httle  better  than  figureheads;  but  some  of  the  rulers  Mi 
strong  and  the  country  advanced.  Buddhism,  which  is  tihnn#) 
to  h&ve  had  an  unwholesome  effect  during  the  period,  grairil 


THE  MILITARY  EPOCH  ocOxv 

bfluenoe,  and  spread  gradually  over  the  entire  land.  In  time 
it  aided  matenally  in  modifying  the  Japanese  character. 
Hitherto  the  people  had  been  hardy,  fierce,  and  militant^  but 
by  degrees  the  rude  warriors  came  under  the  softening  mflu- 
eooe  m  the  endless  codes  of  Chinese  ceremony  and  etiquette ; 
of  the  sentimental  literature  and  its  enervating  effects;  and 
were  'gradually  transformed,  first  into  votaries  of  pleasure, 
then  into  profligates,  and  finally  into  pessimists.' 

The  MiLrTABY  Epoch  lasted  from  the  beginning  of  the  12th 
to  the  middle  of  the  19th  cent.  It  is  also  known  as  the  Ka- 
MAKURA  Epoch  (and  as  the  age  of  military  feudalism),  from 
the  circumstance  that  Minamoto  YoritomOf  3d  son  of  Yoshi" 
^omOf  the  first  Minamoto  shdguny  and  one  of  the  most  cele- 
|)iated  figures  of  the  first  18  centuries  of  Japanese  history, 
ioaugurated  an  entire  change  of  polity,  established  a  miUtary 
gov't  at  Kamakura,  300  M.  from  Ky5to,  and  there  exercised 
the  administrative  functions^  leavmg  the  Imperial  Court 
Dothmg  except  the  power  of  mvesting  officials  and  conduct- 
ing ceremomes.  The  change  was  national  and  decisive.  It 
nuurked  the  beginning  of  an  entirely  new  era  for  Japan,  one 
that  lasted  for  nearly  7  centuries;  and  the  authority,  no  longer 
in  Uie  hands  of  the  emperor,  was  wielded  by  his  powerful 
iieatenant-geneanal,  the  shogun.  In  many  ways  this  is  the  most 
interesting  of  all  the  different  epochs  of  Japanese  history,  for 
it  i«oduc^  the  picturesque  shogun,^  the  daimyo*  the  samurai 
or  two-sworded  men,  the  roninf  or  wave-men,  and  the  restless 
borde  of  moss-trooping  swashbuckling  free-lances  who  went 
tip  and  down  the  land  and  were  such  picturesque  features  of 
It.  Also  because  the  epoch  finally  merged  into  our  own  time 
uid  produced  the  modem  Japan. 

The  period  when  feudalism  and  military  despotism  came  openly  to  the 
hmt,  as  well  as  the  bloody  years  which  followed,  were  trying  ones  for  the 
Koletariat.  The  governmental  system  (borrowed  from  the  Chinese),  with 
ni  elaborate  Court  etiquette  and  its  army  of  officials,  had  outlived  itself. 
Wkve  once  Court  intrigue  decided  everything,  the  sword  was  now  the 
iQtocratic  arbiter,  while  the  Mikado  was  but  a  shadow  in  the  background  of 

'  Shogmi  (pron.  shong'-uhn),  from  iho,  '  general ';  gun,  *  army,'  means 
'ooBunAnder-m-chief.'  SeirirTai  Shogun^  or  '  Great  Barbarian-subduing 
Geseial,'  is  derived  from  <ei,  to  *  subject,'  i,  '  strangers.'  (or  barbarians), 
nd  toi,  *  great.'  This  title,  taken  by  the  Shdgun  in  dealings  with  foreigners, 
W»  been  frequently  corrupted  by  Anglo-Saxons  into  Tycoon  (or  Taikun  — 
'mat  army  ').  All  generals  were  called  Shdgun.  A  commander  of  3  regi- 
lunts  was  Tai-Sh6gunt  or  generalissimo;  and  a  Vice-Commander,  Fuku- 
Skinm, 

*  ntimyS  (pron.  dime-yo),  lit.,  '  great  name,'  is  derived  from  Myodai,  or 
*«bstitutes.'  sent  originally  from  Kydto  to  govern  unruly  provinces.  As 
4iy  grew  in  power  and  became  military  agrarian  aristocrats  or  feudal  lords 
Wniim,  rich  fiefs,  they  called  themselves  Dai-miyo  ('great  substitutes'). 
%rir  VBOBals  or  retainers  were  called  Samurai  (pron.  sam'-rye)  —  a  general 
'ma  ifJA  a  narrow  sense)  for  the  military  class. 

*Boilln  were  samurai  who  believed  themselves  charged  with  a  mission  to 
ifa  political  ecHiditions,  and  who  refrained  from  joining  the  service  oi 
M.  ^tlieir  grierrance  was  against  eveiy  one,  and  they  were  ready  \iau- 
~  '    up  the  eudgel  against  all  and  sundry  for  a  compensaUon, 


cclxvi  THE  MILITARY  EPOCH 

political  events.  For  5  centuries  titanic  conflicts  for  the  poaaestHon  of  the 
actual  power  continued,  and  they  devastated  the  country  in.an.wpa]]iiy| 
manner;  the  humble  peasant  paid  the  reckoning  with  ravaged  fields,  wiw 
poverty,  and  with  the  ashes  of  his  homestead. 

GoSanjo  TennOy  71st  Mikado  (1069-72),  made  a  strenu- 
ous effort  to  reform  the  abuses  of  the  administration,  and  in 
so  doing  he  dealt  the  Fujiwara  autocracy  its  first  serious  blow; 
this  was  followed  by  the  pious  Shirakawa  TennOj  the  72a 
Mikado  (1073-86),  who,  at  the  age  of  33,  abdicated  in  favor 
of  his  son  Horikawa,  then  9  yrs.  old,  and  retired  to  a  monas- 
tery, where  he  organized  his  own  court  and  continued  to 
govern  the  country.  From  this  circumstance  he  is  known  as 
the  first  *  cloistered  emperor.*  By  this  time  the  Buddhist 
monasteries,  especially  those  of  Hiei-zan,  had  developed  such 
power  that  they  repeatedly  bade  defiance  to  the  laws  and  regu- 
lations of  the  gov't.  The  corruption  and  arrogance  of  9ie 
priests  reached  such  a  point  that  they  not  only  had  recourse 
to  arms  in  their  controversies  with  other  monasteries  and 
sects,  but  even  marched,  well  armed,  into  the  capital,  in  order 
to  force  governmental  attention  to  their  demands. 

Toha  Tennd,  74th  Mikado  (1108-23),  saw  the  gradual  de- 
cline of  the  once  powerful  Fujiwara  family;  it  had  now  but 
a  shadow  of  influence  at  Court  and  none  at  all  in  the  inx>vinces. 
But  the  authority  of  the  Mikado  at  this  period  was  little 
better;  a  native  historian  has  compared  it  to  ^an  empty  cash- 
box,  of  which  the  Fujiwara  carried  the  key.'  Toba^s  improvi- 
dence and  prodigality  so  encouraged  the  Taira  and  the  Min- 
amoto  that  soon  the  military  power,  as  distinguished  from 
that  of  the  Court  and  the  priests,  was  in  their  hands  in  ixAer- 
ably  equal  proportions.  Toba  forbade  the  samurai  in  several 
provinces  to  make  themselves  vassals  of  either  of  these  pow- 
erful clans,  but  it  was  a  struggle  with  the  wind.  The  feudal 
system  had  gradually  so  developed  and  strengthened  itself 
that  such  authority  as  was  represented  at  Kyoto  could  no 
longer  impress  itself  upon  it.  The  great  aim  of  the  feudal 
lords  was  now  to  become  independent  of  Imperial  protection, 
and  with  this  in  view  they  secured  rich  domains  and  offerea 
their  growing  power  to  the  chiefs  of  the  Taira  or  Minamoto, 

Soon  the  impending  storm  burst  over  the  heads  of  the  ruling 

houses  and  their  army  of  officials,  and  a  bitter  conflict  ra^d 

between  the  two  great  clans.   They  attacked  each  other  with 

all  the  suppressed  bitterness,  all  the  vindictive  fury,  of  men  who 

believed  that  their  cherished  rights  were  endangered;  the  prise 

was  a  rich  one,  for  it  comprised  a  vast  empire  and  the  destiny 

of  an  entire  nation. 

In  Japanese  history  this  great  succession  dispute  bears  the  ziame  of  Oenjtri- 
kassan,  or  Gempei  War,  from  Gen,  or  Genji,  *  source,'  the  Cliinefle  rendennc 
of  the  Japanese  Minamoto;  and  Hei,  or  PH,  or  Heika  (the  Chinese),  *  peaoe? 
the  equivalent  of  the  Japanese  Taira,  Ka^sen  means  conflict,  or  dueL 
*  The  wars  of  the  Guelphs  and  Ghibellinee,  of  the  Red  and  White  fions* 
and  other  remarkable  civil  wars,  appear  short  compared  with  this  bilter  food* 


THE  MILITARY  EPOCH  ccborti 

of  the  JiQMUiete  Middle  Ages,  ^iliidi  lasted  for  oenturies.  With  their  history, 
whUdi  ie  foiniliar  to  almost  every  Japanese,  are  associated  reminisoences  of 
the  greatest  disorders,  the  most  exciting  events,  sod  the  bloodiest  conflicts 
that  ever  occurred  in  Japan.  Besides  the  display  of  great  courage  and  a  really 
admirable  heroism,  the  basest  conceivable  means,  such  as  cunning,  long- 
proiMured  revenge  and  assassination,  were  not  demised  as  means  to  dastrc^ 
a  dangerous  rival  or  hated  opponent.  So  many  of  the  Minamoto  distin- 
luished  themselves  by  great  Dravery  that  this  struggle  for  supremacy  in 
nodal  power  has  been  described  in  numerous  historical  novels.' 

The  first  decisive  victory  in  the  long  struggle  fell  to  the  Tatra, 
who  maintained  their  supremacy  under  theleadership  of  Taira 
Kiyomori  (1118-81),  a  man  (bom  of  a  Court  concubine)  of  splen- 
did,  courage  and  audacity  (one  of  the  most  renowned  ox  the 
early  Taira  leaders)^  but  brutal,  murderous,  and  lacking  in 
ari^mality  and  political  insight.  By  following  the  pernicious 
Fvijiwara  method  of  placing  minors  on  the  throne  (puppets  that 
were'  like  wax  in  the  hands  of  a  shrewd  and  scheming  man), 
by  such  barbarous  methods  as  burning  templies,  leyving  taxes 
on  ShifUd  shrines;  by  bringing  his  mailed  hand  down  with 
relentless  force  on  the  Buddmst  priests,  and  by  expressing  his 
determination  to  kill  his  hated  nvals  the  Minamoto  (whom  he 
exterminated  whenever  he  could  &id  them),  he  aroused  the 
fear  and  hatred  of  so  many  that  he  thus  prepared  the  way  for 
22  yrs.  of  almost  constant  warfare,  which  resulted  in  the 
downfall  of  the  Taira,  This  was  momentous  in  that  it  marked 
tile  definite  establishment  of  a  long  period  of  military  domina- 
tion and  the  rise  to  supremacy  of  the  formidable  Minamoto 
tinder  the  guidance  of  Minamoto  YoriUmiOf  who  became  the 
most  powerful  chieftain  in  the  land  and  was  so  recognized 
under  the  title  of  shogun.  Then  was  inaugurated  the  dual 
system  of  gov't  which  lasted  down  to  1868  —  'the  Mikado 
supreme  in  name,  but  powerless  and  dwelling  in  a  gilded  cap- 
tivity at  the  old  capital,  Kyoto;  the  shdgun.  with  his  great 
feudatories,  his  armed  retainers,  and  his  well-filled  exchequer, 
niling  the  whole  empire  from  has  new  capital  in  E.  Japan  — 
first  Kamakura,  then  Yedo.' 

Coincident  with  this  period,  Marco  Polo,  while  detained  as  a  prisoner  of 
war  at  Genoa,  wrote  (about  1298)  his  Oriental  Travels,  and  first  gave  to  the 
Suopean  world  an  account  of  the  tales  he  had  heard  at  the  Court  of  Kublai 
Kkan  about  Zipangu.  Historians  agree  that  his  mention  of  such  vast  wealth 
wii  an  important  factor  in  the  influencing  of  his  countryman,  Christopher 
Gohunbus,  to  seek  the  source  of  this  treasure.  'Zipangu  [says  Polo]  is  an 
iriand  in  the  £.  ocean,  situated  at  the  distance  of  about  1500  It  (500  M.) 
from  the  mainland  or  coast  of  Manji  (a  region  of  China) .  It  is  of  consider- 
d4e  saiej  its  inhabitants  have  fair  complexions,  are  well  made,  and  are 
ibiKaed  m  tiieir  manners.  Their  religion  is  the  worship  of  idols.  They  are 
hdapendent  of  every  foreign  power,  and  are  governed  only  by  their  own 
Uofs.  They  have  gold  in  the  greatest  abundance,  its  sources  being  inex- 
Wostible;  but  as  the  king  does  not  allow  of  its  being  exported,  few  mer- 
Aaats  visit  the  country,  nor  is  it  frequented  by  much  shipping  from  other 
Htfes.  To  this  droumstance  we  are  to  attribute  the  extraordinary  richness 
'  '%B  aoreareign's  palace,  according  to  what  we  are  told  b^  those  who  have 
m  to  the  plaoe.  The  entire  roof  is  covered  with  a  plating  of  gold,  m  t\i« 
I  BMoner  as  we  cover  houses,  or,  more  properly,  churches,  witYi  \ead. 
"^       of  the  halls  an  of  the  aame  precious  metal;  many  of  the  opaxV 


cclxviii  THE  HOJO  ERA 

ments  have  small  tables  of  pure  gold,  considerably  thick;  and  the  windom. 
also,  have  golden  ornaments.  So  vast,  indeed,  are  the  riches  of  the  palMB 
that  it  is  impossible  to  convey  an  idea  of  them.' 

The  H6j5  Era  —  sometimes  called  the  age  of  the  Shadow- 
sh5gmis — was  ushered  in  with  the  13th  cent.,  at  which  time 
.the  course  of  Japanese  history  is  seen  to  be  divided  and  flow- 
ing in  two  streams.  There  were  now  two  capitals,  Kyoto  and 
Kamakura,  and  two  centers  of  authority;  one,  the  lawful  but 
overawed  Emperor  and  the  Imperial  court;  the  other,  the 
military  vassal,  and  a  §ov't  based  on  the  power  of  anns.  But 
throughout  the  centimes  the  prestige  of  the  Mikado's  person 
never  declined;  the  fountain  of  authority,  therefore,  was  in 
Kyoto,  the  ultimate  seat  of  power  in  the  ancient  constitution. 
Coincident  with  the  decline  of  the  Hqjd  power,  and  when'tlus 
great  family  was  tottering  to  its  fall,  there  awelt  at  Kyoto 
Go-Daigo  TennOy  96th  Mikado  (1319-38),  who,  despite  hifl 
weakness  for  women  and  his  love  of  display,  grievea  at  the 
unworthy  part  played  by  the  long  dynasty  of  emperors,  and 
studied  plans  for  recovering  some  of  their  vanished  prestige. 
Declaring  war  against  the  Kamakura  Shikken  he  was  defeated 
and  banished  to  the  island  of  Oki,  whence  he  succeeded  in 
escaping  early  in  1333.  Soon  a  number  of  strong  men  enrolled 
themselves  in  his  cause,  and  while  Ashikaga  Takauji  was 
battling  for  the  possession  of  Kyoto  (which  was  in  the  hands 
of  the  Hdj5)j  Nitta  Yoshisada  was  wresting  Kamakura  from 
the  Shikken.  Thus  began  the  rivalry  which  lasted  for  nearly 
60  yrs.  between  the  S.  dynasty,  represented  by  Go-DaiffO 
TennOf  at  the  S.  of  Kyoto,  and  the  N.  dynasty,  supported 
by  the  Ashikaga.  With  the  fall  of  the  Hojo  ended  the  age 
of  the  Puppet-shoguns,  by  which  is  understood  the  period 
between  the  shogunate  of  the  Minamoto  and  that  of  the 
Ashikagaj  or  from  1219  to  1334. 

The  Ashikaga  Period  (of  the  Military  Epoch),  which 
extended  from  1338  to  1573,  which  gave  Japan  15  Bhdgiaa 
(the  first,  Ashikaga  Takauji,  1305-58),  is  another  highly  inter- 
esting and  picturesque  period  of  the  nation's  life.  The  rise  of 
the  great  Oda  Nohunaga;  the  discovery  of  Japan  by  the 
Portuguese;  the  introduction  of  firearms  and  Jesuitism;  the 
arrival  of  the  Dutch;  famine,  earthquakes,  internecine  war, 
and  many  other  stirring  events  were  features  of  it.  The  intes- 
tine conmcts  which  now  broke  out  again  over  the  country, 
thereby  producing  the  most  wretched  state  of  affairs  Japan 
had  ever  known,  have,  probably  by  analogy  with  the  lone 
EngUsh  war  of  the  succession,  under  the  two  Roses,  been  callea 
the  War  of  the  Chrysanthemum,  because  the  chrysanthemum 
indicum  is  in  some  measure  the  symbol  of  the  sun  and  of  the 
Imperial  authority.  Takauji  soon  became  the  central  figure 
of  the  greatest  political  disturbance  Japan  had  ever  laumL 
'For  55  yra.  there  was  akaoBl  incessant  fighting,  aod  tbe 


:  THE  ASHIKAGA  PERIOD  cdzix 

period  IB  called  "the  blackest  in  Japan's  history/' '  Even 
before  Takauji  died  (aged  53),  the  power  that  he  had  hoped 
to  bequeath  to  his  descendant  had  been  largely  usuiped  by 
his  lieutenant.  Treachery  and  intrigue  were  in  the  air;  the 
great  feudal  barons  fought  among  themselves;  the  islajid 
empire  was  a  vast  armed  camp;  and  corruption,  shame,  and 
degeneracy  were  everywhere  apparent.  But  there  was  a  silver 
lining  to  the  dark  cloud  which  hung  over  Nippon  at  this  time, 
for  it  was  during  this  period  that  predial  serfdom  was  finally 
shattered;  that  a  great  development  in  pictorial  art  was  wit- 
nessed, —  a  development  analogous  to,  and  contemporary 
with,  that  of  Europe,  —  and  that  great  rulers  rose  to  power. 
The  first  and  most  striking  figure  among  these  was 

AsHiKAGA  YosHiBnTBU  (1358-1408),  3d  shogun,  a  grandson 
of  Ashikaga  TakauHj  and  referred  to  in  history  as  the  Great 
Ashikaga.  Besides  being  a  talented  ruler,  he  ctiltivated  litera- 
ture, favored  artists,  maintained  friendly  relations  with  the 
Ming  dynaaty  recently  established  in  China,  was  liberal  with 
the  Buddhists  —  especially  the  Zen  sect,  of  which  he  was  a 
fervent  devotee,  —  and  bmlt  (in  1383)  the  oeautiful  Shokokurpf 
a  temple  originally  intended  to  receive  the  remains  of  the 
Ashikaga  shdgunSj  and  which  finally  became  the  headc^uarters 
of  the  10  branches  of  the  Rimai  sect.  He  also  built  (in  1397) 
the  Golden  Pavilion  {JGink€^vrji)j  his  nominal  residence  during 
his  retirement,  and  still  one  of  the  sights  of  Kyoto.  He 
established  his  gov't  in  the  Mwromachi  Palace,  at  KyOto, 
and  thus  began  what  is  called  the  Muromachi  Epoch.  One 
of  his  greatest  acts  was  the  unification  of  the  dual  monarchy 
(in  1392),  which  for  56  yrs.  had  divided  the  country  into  two 
hostile  camps.  Although  2  yrs.  after  the  unification,  Yoshi' 
mitsu  took  the  tonsure  and  retired  from  official  life,  he  con- 
tinued (until  he  died  in  1409)  to  exercise  administrative  author- 
ity, thus  aiding  in  establishing  some  semblance  of  order  in 
the  affairs  of  the  Ashikaga.  He  it  was  also  who  suppressed  the 
piratical  forays  which  the  natives  of  KyOshti  were  wont  to  make 
on  the  coasts  of  Korea  and  China. 

Piracy  became  a  favorite  occupation  for  certain  of  the  uneasy  element  of 
Japan  during  the  14th  cent.,  and  the  long,  unprotected  coasts  of  the  Asiatic 
littoral  became  the  happy  hunting-ground  of  these  Far  Eastern  corsairs. 
Descending  suddenly  on  some  somnolent  coastal  village,  they  looted  it  at 
th^  leisure,  and,  if  nothing  prevented,  proceeded  inland,  sacking  and  de- 
stroying villages  as  they  went.  When  satisfied  with  their  booty,  they 
marched  leisurely  back  to  the  coast,  raised  the  crinkly,  puckered  sails  of 
their  great  junks,  and  sailed  home  when  the  wind  was  favorable.  They 
repeated  these  outrages  year  after  year,  on  an  increasing  scale,  until  the 
ahore  provinces  were  overrun  and  the  populace  driven  to  aesperation.  Chi- 
nese history  records  that  during  this  unhappy,  era  scores  of  fortiesses  were 
erected,  one  man  out  of  every  four  was  detailed  to  patrol  the  beach  and 
repel  the  assaults  of  these  sea-rovers,  and  tiiat  the  general  topic  of  eonver- 
saticm  among  the  exasperated  people  was  the  nmnber  of  desoents  made, 
tbe.veaMte  captiu^d,  the  towns  piUaged  and  the  districts  lavaged  by  \!b& 
Japanese  buccaneers.  The  terror  they  spread  was  so  neat,  that  vveai  tOr 
diqr  mothers  on  parts  of  the  Chinase  ooast  —  partioulany  in  CKd-  KiatiQ  — - 


cclxx  ARRIVAL  OF  THE  PORTUGUESE 

threaten  their  children,  when  the^  will  not  go  to  sleep,  ^tb  ttie  pfiiitM. 
Wo-jen-lai,.ihe  Japanese  are  coming,  they  say. 

The  death  of  Yoshimitsu  (at  50,  in  1408)  was  the  signal  for 
fresh  disorders.  Succession  disputes  relative  to  the  Throne, 
as  well  as  among  the  great  vassals  (the  agrarian  autocrats), 
arose,  and  another  century  passed  before  tranquillity  was 
restored.  The  material  ruin  of  the  country  was  appalling. 
The  low  state  of  the  mikadoate  in  the  last  half  of  this  period 
is  shown  by  the  fact  that  when  Go-Tsuchimikado  Tennd,  the 
103d  ruler  (1466-1600),  died  in  Ky5to,  his  body  remained 
for  40  days  without  burial,  the  necessary  means  for  def rajdng 
the  cost  of  the  ceremony  being  wanting.  Finally  a  da^nyd 
of  Omi,  Sasahi  TakayonynB.d  the  funeral  conducted  at  his  own 
expense.  And  this  at  a  time  when  Columbus  was  still  endeav- 
onng  to  find  the  W.  route  to  Zipangu  and  Cathay  with  liieir 
treasiu*es,  so  much  vaunted  by  Marco  Polo!  *To  the  horrors  of 
the  never-ending  civil  wars  were  added  (in  the  first  half  of 
the  16th  cent.)  frequent  violent  earthquakes,  drought,  and 
failure  of  crops,  famine,  and  devastating  diseases  which  in- 
creased the  misery  and  wretchedness  under  which  the  mass  d 
the  population  were  groaning  without  prospect  of  salvation. 
The  Buddhist  priests  were  not  behind  the  rich  in  luxurious- 
ness  and  dissoluteness  of  life;  their  monasteries  were  fortresses, 
in  which  only  the  great  poUtical  gamblers,  not  the  oppressed 
people,  found  comfort  and  help.  Trade  and  industry,  except 
such  as  served  for  the  equipment  of  the  warrior,  were  neg- 
lected; the  ruin  was  deep  and  universal.  Manv  a  town,  many 
a  happy  home  became  a  prey  to  the  flames,  ana  those  who  had 
dweU  in  them  vagrants  on  the  earth.  The  land  grew  waste, 
for  those  who  mi^t  have  cultivated  it  were  frightened  away, 
or  were  drafted  into  military  service.' 

The  Arrival  of  the  Portuguese  under  Mendea  Pinto 
occurred  in  1542.  At  that  time  Alfonso  de  Sosa  was  captain- 
general  of  Portuguese  India,  and  discoveries  and  conquests 
on  the  E.  coast  of  Asia  had  been  extensive.  Albeit  at  that 
period  home-staying  Spaniards  and  Portuguese  were  accus- 
tomed to  strange  stories  of  newly  discovered  lands  and  peoples, 
Pinto^s  account  of  his  adventures  (set  forth  in  his  PeregrinagSo 
de  Femao  Mendes  PintOj  published  at  Lisbon  in  1614)  and  of 
the  bizarre  habits  and  customs  of  the  Japanese  struck  sudi 
an  odd  note  that  he  was  accused  of  mendacity  and  was  dubbed 
mendaz  ('mendacious'). 

PintOt  along  with  Diego  Zaimoto  and  Criatdbal  Baralho,  were  on  th^  way 
from  Cochin  China  to  China  proper  and  were  passengers  on  the  Junk  of  m 
Chinese  pirate.  In  a  fight  with  another  pirate  the  junk  became  separated 
from  its  companions  andwas  blown  out  of  its  course  by  a  storm.  After  three 
weeks  of  beating  about  on  the  open  sea,  a  strange  land  was  sighted,  and  steer- 
ing for  it  the  party  disembarked  on  Tanegathima  ('  Seed  Island')  Oct.  22.  — 
Hitherto  Ceylon  had  been  the  furthermost  point  reached  by  European  diipa. 
Pinto,  ^erefore,  blazed  the  way  for  his  pealm-singing,  shrewd-^raidiiM;  eomip 
tiymen,  and  brought  to  Europe  the  first  definite  information  about  toe  Jap* 


uldng  i^  Jspui  a  hf  rinit  nsiion  duriiiE  2(  cEntuHes.  Thp  influence 
Banna,  the  leH^ion,  and  the  people  who  followed  them  '  mnB  hice  a 
d  through  the  wnrp  and  woof  4^  Japanese  bietory.' 
Eablt  Tokhoawa  Time  {trom  1573  to  1603),  or  the  ^e 
eurpers  Nobunaga  and  Hideymhi,  \e  an  interesting  and 
int  period  in  the  history  of  the  Japanese  Middle  Ages 
h  terminate  with  it.  '  It  is  the  age  of  the  propagation  of 

3  and  or  its  first  bloody  persecutions;  of  the  great- 
development  of  the  power  of  the  country  sM  of 
,  important  mtema!  changes.'  At  the  head  of  the  great 
rf  tne  period  stand  three  famouB  names  representing  at 
3  most  powerful  and  moat  celebrated  figures  of  the  ^e : 
banaga  (1534-82);  Toyotomi  HideyoBhi  (1536-98),  and 
aleytuu  (1542-1616),  though  the  main  history  of  the 


aed  faJla  in  the  early  yrs.  of  the  17tli  cent, 
r  the  dynaaty  of  the  Ashikaga  after  Yoahimusu,  loera 
internal  peace.  The  land  was  devastated  by  repeated 
rs;  life  and  property  were  at  the  mercy  of  the  brutal, 
leal,  and  the  oppressor;  and  poverty  and  wretehednesa 
e  lot  of  the  citizen  and  peasant.  Individualism  was 
repreesed;  the  laws  had  no  defenders;  the  Mikados 
om  of  their  influence  and  prestige;  and  the  general 
confusion  and  miaery  was  almost  incredible.  Then 
ddenly  appeared  a  man  who  sought,  and  successfully, 
xp  wiui  stem  hand  the  putrifying  political  and  social 
nd  to  restore  discipline  and  order.   This  man  was  Oda 


cdxxii  TOYOTOMI  HIDEYOSHI 

power  of  the  great,  independent,  feudal  barons  in  the  mare  distant  parti  o 
the  country.  They  continued  to  carry  on  their  sanguinary  feuds  withou 
troubling  themselves  or  thinking  about  what  was  happening  in  KyOto,  tb 
object  of  each  being  to  cmiah.  his  neighbor  azid  opponent  in  order  to  inoreaai 
his  own  domains. 

The  immense  influence  and  the  growing  arrogance  of  the  de 
generate  Buddhist  priesthood  appeared  to  Nobunaga  such  f 
serious  menace  to  the  peace  of  the  country  that  he  turned  hii 
attention  toward  them  first.  He  favored  the  doctrine  of  Chris 
tianity,  wliich  was  everywhere  striking  root,  by  bestowing 
upon  its  preachers  land  tor  the  building  of  churches,  and  b} 
protecting  them  against  the  hostility  of  the  bonzes.  Then  h( 
took  up  the  sword  in  order  to  break  down  the  fortresses  intc 
which  many  Buddhist  monasteries  had  been  transformed 
Because  of  his  friendliness  toward  the  Christians  the  Bud 
dhists  regarded  him  as  a  demon  and  a  persecutor  bent  upoi 
exterminating  their  religion,  and  they  lost  no  opportunity 
to  checkmate  his  plans  and  to  obstruct  his  path.  IJnmindfu 
of  benefits  received,  the  Shogun  YoshiaH  plotted  to  assassin- 
ate  his  protector,  but  Nobunaga^  hearing  of  the  conspiracy 
deposed  and  imprisoned  him,  and  by  so  doing  terminated  tibi< 
Ashikaga  shogunate  which  had  ruled  the  country  for  250  yft 
In  1582  a  traitor  in  the  person  of  Akechi  Mitsuhide  assemblec 
his  followers  in  Kyoto,  surrounded,  the  Honno^ji  in  whiol 
Nobunaga  was  living,  and  attacked  it.  Seeing  no  hope  o1 
escape,  Nobunaga  set  fire  to  his  own  habitation  and  penshec 
in  it,  in  the  48th  yr.  of  his  age.  His  death  caused  constema 
tion,  particularly  among  the  Christians  whom  he  had  be 
friended.  Mitsuhide^  who  was  a  poet  of  note,  was  routed  oui 
of  his  castle  and  massacred  by  a  mob  of  enraged  peasants 
Nobunaga  left  a  great  name,  and  12  sons  and  11  daughter! 
to  share  it.  His  picture  shows  an  attractive,  oval-facedznai 
strongly  resembling  William  Shakespeare, 

Toyotomi  Hideyoshij  known  variously  as  the  Taiko  ('  Grea' 
Merit')*  Taiko-Sama^ and  as  the  Japanese  Napoleon  (b.  1536 
d.  1598),  a  true  military  genius  with  an  ugly  face  but  a  grea* 
character,  followed  in  the  footsteps  of  his  master  Nobunaga 
and  acquired  even  a  greater  fame.  Wherever  he  rabed  hii 
banner  (consisting  of  a  bundle  of  bottle-gourds)  there  was  i 
victory.  Instead  of  avenging  himself  on  his  enemies,  he  par 
doned  them,  and  he  soon  brought  about  an  internal  peace  fo: 
which  his  predecessors  had  striven  in  vain.  His  rule  was  likec 
by  the  people,  for  he  dealt  out  justice  without  respect  o: 
person,  name,  rank,  or  even  of  service  rendered.  Under  hi 
beneficent  rule  Kyoto  became  prosperous  again  and  art  re 
vived.  He  fortified  Fushimi  and  built  the  great  Osaka  fortress 
His  hostility  to  the  Jesuits  did  not  develop  until  1587,  bu 
after  that  it  gradually  assmned  a  malignant  form,  and  in  15Qi 
(Feb.  5),  in  what  he  considered  an  effort  to  save  the  countri 
IzviD  &  great  danger,  he  caused  to  be  crucified,  at  Nagasaki 


THE.  TOKUGAWA  SHOGUNATE        odzxiii 

26  maityiB  of  the  new  faith.  Before  his  deaUi  —  which  filled 
the  Christiazis  with  new  hope  —  he  sent  a  large  army  to  Korea, 
and  when  it  was  on  the  verge  of  defeat  by  the  combined  Chi- 
nese and  Korean  forces,  he  recalled  it. 

After  HideyoskCs  death,  the  subtle  leyasu  (b.  1542;  d.  1616) 
installed  himself  in  the  Fushimi  castle  and  began  to  rule  the 
country.  Troubles  immediately  arose  between  him  and  the 
preat  aaimyds.  who  accused  him  of  usurping  the  power.  Call- 
mg  his  faithful  adherents  to  him,  leyasu  prepare  for  the  great 
struggle  that  was  soon  to  decide  his  fate  and  that  of  the  nation. 
At  t£e  head  of  an  army  of  80,000  men.  he  met  (Oct.  21,  1600) 
the  combined  forces  of  the  dissatisfied  feudal  barons,  composed 
of  130,000  men,  at  Sekigahara  Plain,  near  the  village  of  Mito, 
and  there  fouj^t  the  bloodiest  and  most  momentous  battle 
in  Japimese  history;  upward  of  30,000  men  lost  their  lives  in 
the  stupendous  encounter,  and  the  victory  fell  to  leyasu.  It 
is  a  turning-point  in  Nipponese  annals,  for  it  marked  the  estab- 
lishment of 

The  ToKUGAWA  Sh6gunatb  (with  leyasu  as  the  1st  shogun), 
which  remained  in  power  for  upwards  of  250  yrs.,  and  secured 
for  the  suffering  nation  a  surprisingly  long  period  of  peace 
after  centuries  of  civil  war.  The  beginning  of  the  epoch  (wluch 
extended  from  1600  to  the  Restoration  of  the  mikadoate  in 
1868)  also  saw  the  most  complete  development  of  the  feudal 
qrstem;  the  eradication  of  Christianity;  the  intercourse  with 
foreigners  confined  to  the  Chinese  and  to  the  Dutch  at  Naga- 
saki; the  closing  of  the  country  and  the  making  of  it  a  hermit 
nation. 

'  The  Tokugawa  regime  offers  a  marvelous  contrast  to  its  predecessors. 
In  those  our  ears  are  stunned  with  the  clash  of  swords,  the  braying  of  trum- 
pets, the  tramp  of  armies,  and  the  shock  of  battle.  From  1616  down  to  1854, 
apart  from  the  Shitnabara  insurrection  of  1637-8,  the  prosecution  of  some 
vendetta,  or  some  agrarian  disturbance  with  mat  flags  and  bamboo  spears, 
we  seek  in  vain  for  the  alarms  and  excursions  that  might  relieve  the  seem- 
in^  humdrum  monotony  of  the  narrative.'  When  leyaau  came  into  power, 
237  military  nobles  held  practically  the  whole  of  Japan  in  flef;  115  of  these 
were  Tokuffaioa  vassals  who  owed  their  rank  and  estates  to  his  favor.  He  wove 
the  237  fiefs  '  into  a  pattern  such  that  one  of  the  115  loyal  threads  always 
had  a  place  between  two  of  the  remainder  whose  fealty  was  doubtful.'  He 
made  peace  with  Korea,  but  struck  a  fatal  blow  at  maritime  enterprise  by 
eausing  all  ships  to  be  destroyed  —  an  act  which  his  grandson  lemitsu 
supplemented  by  an  ordinance  forbidding  the  construction  of  sea-going  ves- 
sdb.  The  policy  of  keeping  the  country  hermetically  sealed  against  foreign  in- 
tercourse was  ngidly  observed.  Centuries  of  this  seclusion  brought  with  them 
the  danger  of  ignorance  and  the  inability  to  imderstand  the  true  position  of 
Ji^Mtn  among  the  nations  of  the  world.  From  the  early  part  of  the  17th 
cent,  vague  conceptions  of  Occidental  civilization  filtered  mto  the  country 
through  the  narrow  door  of  Dutch  trade  at  Nagasaki,  but  the  Japanese  op- 
posed eversr  effort  to  penetrate  their  seclusion.  Between  1792  and  1814  Rus- 
■a  made  5  ineffectual  attempts  to  open  negotiations;  between  1797  and  1824 
Bngl^^fwl  made  8,  while  American  ships  came  in  1797,  1806,  and  1837.  In 
1844  King  William  of  Holland  wrote  to  the  shogun  and  urged  him  to  enter 
nto  eamxneroial  relations  with  different  European  powers.  A  French  ahip 
tMM  ill  1846.  and  in  the  same  year  an  American  vessel,  the  ColumhiMy  came 
lo  tafUgAf  but  was  requested  by  the  Japanese  to  retire.   In  1842  the  1^^ 


Btdxxi^ 


THE  PERRY  EXPEDITION 


In/aihi  (b.  1792;  d.  1B53).  loBde  lira  raiiiUJie  o!  ordeiliic  bis  peniila 

Butd»iutettiu,Conunoilois  Matthew  CiillndUi  Peny  aDchored  snAoia- 
icsD  fleet  id  Uchkb  Boy  July  S.  1863.  and  diapitched  h!i  letter  fram  Pr»>- 
dml  Fiilmare  to  the  ahdvan.  NewB  of  the  eveut  apnud  over  the  island  «ilk 
ttlmojit  incredible  re,pidity-  Perry  hul  *  ships  (called  iurn-Zuno,  or  '  bliidi 
ridpB.'  by  the  Japsnese)  and  500  DDeii.  but  the  eioited  people  of  Yeda  uid 
there  were  ID  ehipe  and  6000  men.  nhile  KySUi  epoke  oT  100  »bi|>9  BDd 
IDO.UOO  men  I  AataiiiiihmflDt,  aUmi.  and  an  intense  curioaty  Kiied  ^ 
populaee.  Orienlal  Paul  Rcrrrei  gaUoped  over  hille  and  throujjli  vallm 
apreadinB  tJte  wonderTuI  tidingB.  audi  soon  the  sesshoTo  was  lilemlly  bUok 
wHi  peraons  who  bad  never  seen  a  toreim  ship  or  an  Americno.  On  Jnlj 
14.  Perru  landed  with  an  armed  escort  oTSOO  sailors;  handed  over  the  Pw- 
dent'e  letter;  announcEd  tiint  he  would  return  the  folluwine  year  For  ul 
answer,  snd  isiled  awny.  On  Feb.  12,  ISM,  he  returned  mth  T  shim,  ni 

BW^.*"^  'lB56*  Mr.  "l^Timsei 

from  the  U.B,,  arrived  in  Jl, — , ^ ^..,  ^„ 

affairs  in  Japan  at  the  time  of  the  Porry  EipeditioQ  is  Eained  from  tne  in- 
lowing  eicerple  fmm  n  ioumal  kept  by  Mr.  S.  WitU  WOliiniH.  Ibe  nterpie- 
ter  of  the  expedition  USS^-UI :  — 

"The  shipa  (Saraloaa,  S-iav"l>aniia,  Mimmippi,  and  PlvnouM)  anDham) 
off  Uraga  (July  8th5  about  tour  o'clock.  Mftoy  boats  bTie  scows,  lull  o( 
athletic,  nskecl  boatmen,  came  near.    The  officials  were  dressed  in  Uiclr 

in  nhiU  on  the  nrma  and  boek;  their  long  swordi  were  tEiken  off  as  they  Ml 
down.  The  eommandant  showed  his  official  insignia,  a  kind  of  bmss  tlspe- 
■ium  with  s  swiHEinBveinier.  the  lim  marked  in  Chinese  Hniires;  he  hid 

but  he  did  not  offer  to  ahow  them,  as  we  were  already  anchored.  .  ,  . 

the  necesuty  of  our  taldsg  our  letter  to  Nagasaki,  the  only  place  where 
Japsnese  laws  aUowed  its  receptioo,  and  that  the  (qvemor  on  shore  would  Mt 
receive  it;  we  naked  him  if  he  took  tlie  reaponaibility  of  relusiDC  it.  and  iM 
that  having  recdved  our  orders  to  go  to  Yedo  from  our  own  ruler,  we  wen 
u  much  obliged  to  obey  as  he  was;  further,  that  he  had  lok)  us  on  the  Sat 

that  ho  muet  have  known  the  laws  ss  well  then  as  be  did  now.  two  houB 
after,  and  if  ho  did  not  come  and  get  the  letter  we  must  take  it  aebon  out^ 
■elves.  Then  replies  rather  cut  abort  their  long  talk,  iind  they  agnied  H> 
dome  [or  the  letter  to-morrow  se  they  went  over  the  nde.  Before  leaTiM. 
the  sharp-faced  oommaiulant  went  aft  to  look  at  the  bit;  gun.  asked  it  it  was 
a  Pajihnn,  took  its  range  to  the  shore,  and  then  ciuTnirLed  the  looks  of  tlis 
leund  near  the  gangway ;  he  had  evidently  a  oomnuHBlon  to  this  e^ect,  but 
we  nave  him  no  chance  to  see  much,  for  wc  have  an  object  highly  desirable 


whole  lught.  Seve 


were  kept  during  the  ntcht  on  board  as  if  expecting  an  enomvi 
■e  the  tiokle  of  a  hell  or  gong  was  diatjnetly  beard  durincHie 
'  ■        "  shore  at  dayliSi,  so 


ily  that  watch  aeid  ward  were  maintained  by  b 

IB  nngoed.  and  the  sialit  of  something  like  l^oek  screeTLS  uani 

•ngthen  this  idea.    Abcml  seven  o'clock  the  tugbeet  offieR  t 

oft ;  a  parley  took  place  oS  the  gangway  as  to  the  object  ol  tb 


L 


THE  PERRY  EXPEDITION  oolxxv 

doabtoaa  to  theraaMnof  such  a  force  could  not  be  inferred  horn  thdr  looki. 
A  cotuteom  offer  of  water  and  supplies  was  made,  which  was  deoUned,  and 
TeaaimoH  added  then  that  he  would  not  come  o£F  as^dn  before  the  tennina- 
tion  ci  the  four  dayB  allowed  to  send  to  Yedo,  a  period  they  themsdves  set 
as  the  time  required  to  send  up  and  deliberate  upon  the  matter.  They  were 
deaily  informed  of  the  meaning  of  a  white  flag,  and  also  that  visits  were  out 
of  season  till  after  the  flags  were  hoisted  in  the  morning. 

*Yemitnon  had  a  brocade  pattern  of  drawers,  but  a  beautiful  black 
gsuae  Jacket.  His  crest  was  on  his  lackered  hat  also;  the  boatman  had  a  blue 
and  white  striped  livery  coat,  and  looked  more  decent  than  the  naked  fel- 
lows yesterday.  ...  A  large  bucdna  was  taken  out  of  a  box,  addmed  with 
tassdig  and  having  a  brass  at  the  vertex,  but  I  could  not  make  out  its  use. 

'At  our  request  he  showed  his  swords  to  the  company.  The  scabbard  of 
one  was  covered  witii  a  white-brown  speckled  fish-skin,  which  he  said  was 
brought  from  China;  it  was  smooth  and  nicely  covered  the  wooden  sheath. 
The  other  was  covered  with  hair  beautifully  lackered  and  wound  around. 
The  blade  was  rather  sharp,  quite  plain,  and  bright:  two  gold  dragons  orna- 
mented the  ends  of  the  hilt  wiiich  was  long,  for  two  hands,  and  covered  with 
knotted  rilk.  After  all  points  were  explained  they  requested  to  see  the 
engine,  and  were  taken  through  the  ship.  The  sise  of  the  machinery  seemed 
to  gratify  and  amaae  them,  and  every  principle  of  propulsion  was  explained 
as  well  as  the  time  allowed.  The  sice  of  the  furnace  and  the  complicated  na^ 
tine  of  the  machinery  drew  their  wondering  gaze.  The  guns,  muskets  and 
an  the  arrangements  of  the  ship  were  all  informed  them,  and  they  observed 
eveiything.  A  daguerreotjrpe  pleased  them  much.  The  survey  of  such  a 
steamer  evidently  gratified  a  reasonable  curiosity.  .  .  . 

*  Tuesday,  Jtdy  14th.  —  The  squadron  was  full  of  bustle  this  morning, 
getting  arms  buniished,  boats  ready,  steam  up,  men  dressed  and  milking  all 
the  preparation  necessary  to  go  ashore  and  be  prepared  for  any  alternative. 
About  half-past  seven  o'clock  the  steamers  were  under  way  and  soon 
opened  the  beach  around  the  point  and  disclosed  the  preparations  made  to 
receive  the  letten  from  President  FiUmore.  The  officials  in  their  boats  were 
lying  off  the  Susquthanna  waiting  to  see  the  flag  hoisted,  and  about  the  time 
our  anchor  was  down  they  were  idongside.  There  were  two  boats  carrying 
ax  officials  who,  when  seated  on  deck,  presented  a  most  mn^lariy  grotesque 
and  piebald  appearance  blended  with  a  certain  degree  of  richness  from  the 
gay  colors  they  wore.  The  second  officer  was  a  conapicuoiis  member  of  this 
party,  he  not  having  been  aboard  before  since  the  first  day;  his  dark  face 
and  sharp  features  contrasting  with  bis  yellow  robe,  and  his  black  socks,  baii^ 
bare  \ag^  and  short  trowsers,  all  showing  out  from  the  overalls  of  his  uni- 
form, made  him  rather  an  attractive  object.  They  all  seemed  to  be  in  good 
spirits  and  amused  themselves  looking  at  the  officers  in  their  uniforms  and 
other  objects. 

'By  ten  o'clock  tiie  boats  had  left  the  steamer  and,  under  the  lead  of  the 
natives,  were  pretty  much  landed  before  eleven  o'clock  on  the  beach  at 
Kyai-itamat  opposite  the  shed  erected  for  our  reception  and  surrounded 
with  striped  curtains;  Commodore  Perry  left  under  a  salute  and  found  the 
escort  ready  when  he  landed  to  conduct  him  to  the  house  prepared  for  his 
aodwnce.  There  were  15  boats  in  all,  containing  about  300  people,  say  112 
marines,  40  musicians,  40  officers  and  100  or  more  sailors.  Every  one  was 
armed  with  a  sword,  a  pistol  or  a  musket,  and  most  of  the  firearms  were 

MIIICvBu* 

*The  place  appointed  for  receiving  these  letters  was  a  hut  set  up  on  the 
beaoh,  having  two  small  ones  behind  it,  the  whole  enclosed  by  white  and 
blue  striped  curtains  hanging  from  poles;  a  screen  was  in  front  concealing 
the  front  of  the  rooms  and  a  large  opening  at  each  end  of  it,  between  that  and 
the  side  curtains,  which  were  prolonged  along  the  beach  on  each  hand  for 
neariy  half  a  mile.  .  .  .  The  Japanese  had  placed  a  row  of  armed  boats 
near  the  ends  of  the  curtains,  and  detachments  of  troops  were  stationed  be- 
fore the  curtains  in  close  array,  standing  to  their  arms,  their  pennons  fljring 
from  the  curtains  and  gpndually  bending  down  to  meet  the  boats  at  each  end. 
Honemen  were  placed  behind  one  or  two  curtains  who  wore  brass  cuirasses 
nd  metalUo  heunets  or  something  like  it.  ...  All  these  troops,  mmibet- 
fug  about  5000  men,  maintained  the  utmost  order,  nor  did  tne  pop>3iace 
^'     ■   bqrcMid  the  guard,  ^/eir  miserable  iSeid-pieces  stood  in  front;  mauv 


cdxxvi  THE  PERRY  EXPEDITION 

files  had  muskets  with  bayonets,  others  had  spears.  Crowds  of  women  wen 
noticed  by  some  near  the  markee,  but  I  suspect  thejr  were  not  numerous.  Al- 
together, the  Japanese  had  taken  great  pains  to  receive  us  in  style,  wldle  eaeh 
aide  had  provided  against  siu'prises  from  the  other  and  prepared  agidnst  every 
contingency. 

'As  soon  as  Commodore  Perry  landed  all  fell  into  procession;  Captain 
Buchanan,  who  was  the  first  man  a^ore,  had  arranged  all  in  their  places  so 
that  no  hindrance  took  place.  The  marines,  headed  by  Major  Zeilen,  led  off, 
he  going  ahead  with  a  drawn  sword;  then  half  of  the  sailors  with  one 
band  playing  between  the  two  parties.  Two  tall  blacks  heavily  armed  sup- 
ported as  tall  a  standard  bearer,  carrying  a  commodore's  pennant,  and 
went  next  before  two  boys  carrying  the  President's  letter  and  the  Full 
Powers  in  their  boxes  covered  with  red  baize.  The  Commodore,  sup- 
ported by  Captain  Adams  and  Lieutenant  Contee,  each  wearing  chapeaux, 
then  advanced;  the  interpreters  and  secretary  came  next  succeeded  by 
Captain  Buchanan  and  the  gay-appearing  file  of  officers  whose  epaulets, 
buttons,  etc.,  shone  brightly  in  the  sun.  A  file  of  sailors  and  the  bajid,  with 
marines  under  Captain  Slack,  finished  this  remarkable  escort.  The  escort  of 
Von  Resanoff  at  Nagasaki  of  seven  men  was  denied  a  landing  until  they  had 
been  strippped  of  almost  everything  belonging  to  a  guard  of  honor;  here, 
fifty  years  after,  a  strongly  armed  escort  of  300  Americans  do  honor  to  their 
President's  letter  at  the  other  end  of  the  empire,  the  Japanese  being  anxious 
only  to  know  the  size  and  arrangement  of  what  they  feel  themselves  powerless 
to  resist.  There  were  fully  a  thousand  charges  of  ball  in  the  escort  besides 
the  contents  of  the  cartridge  boxes.  Any  treachery  on  their  part  would  have 
met  a  serious  revenge. 

*On  reaching  the  front  of  the  markee  the  two  envoys  were  seen  seated  on 
camp  stools  on  the  left  side  of  a  room,  20  ft.  sq.  or  so,  matted  and  covered 
with  red  felt;  four  camp  stools  were  ranged  on  the  right  side,  and  a  red 
lacquered  box  between  them.  The  chief  envoys  (Toda,  Prince  of  Idsu,  and 
Ida,  Prince  of  Iwame)  rose  as  the  Commodore  entered,  and  the  two  parties 
made  slight  bows  to  each  other.  The  boys  laid  the  boxes  on  the  floor  and  the 
two  blacks  came  in  to  open  them.  They  were  taken  out  and  opened  upon  the 
lacquered  box,  and  the  packets  containing  the  copies  and  translations  pre- 
sented by  Mr.  Contee,  Tatsnoske  and  Yezaimon  were  both  on  the  floor,  and 
the  former  commenced  the  interview  by  asking  if  the  letters  were  ready  to 
be  delivered.  When  he  made  known  the  reply  he  put  his  head  nearly  to  the 
floor  in  speaking  to  Ye2aimon  who,  on  his  knees,  informed  the  envoy  in  a  whis- 
per. The  receipt  for  them  in  Dutch  and  Japanese  was  then  delivered  to 
Mr.  Portman,  and  the  originals  themselves  opened  out  in  the  boxes  as  they 
lay.  Soon  after.  Commodore  Perry  said  that  in  two  or  three  days  he  in- 
tended to  leave  for  Loochoo  and  China,  and  would  take  any  letters,  etc.,  for 
the  envoys.    This  produced  no  acknowledgment  on  their  part.  .  .  . 

'  Conversation  being  tlms  stopped  and  no  signs  of  any  refreshment  ap- 
pearing, there  was  nothing  else  to  do  than  to  go.  The  contrast  between  its 
interlocutors  was  very  striking.  In  front  was  a  group  of  officers  and  behind 
them  the  picturesque  looking,  shaven-pated  Japanese  in  relief  against  the 
checked  screen;  on  the  left  a  row  of  full-dressed  officers  with  swords,  epau^ 
lettes,  etc.,  all  in  full  lustre;  on  the  right  the  two  envoys  and  a  secretary,  with 
two  more  plainly  dressed  men  on  their  knees  between  the  two  rows.  .  .  . 
The  two  envoys  were  immovable  and  never  stirred  or  hardly  spoke  durins 
the  whole  interview.  I  got  the  impression  that  the  two  high  men  had 
pursed  themselves  up  to  an  attitude,  and  had  taken  on  this  demure  look  as 
a  part  of  it.  The  reembarkation  took  place  gradually,  no  one  being  in  much 
of  a  hurry,  and  I  began  to  talk  to  the  people  and  invited  two  of  them  on 
board  to  see  the  steamer  and  a  revolver.  One  man  wished  to  know  if  the 
women  in  America  were  white.  Considerable  curiosity  was  manifested  in 
comparing  swords,  and  some  exchanges  were  proposed ;  altogether  this  part 
of  the  interview  was  far  the  pleasantest  to  both  parties,  and  I  suspect  the 
Japanese  were  sorry  to  see  the  show  end  so  soon.  Many  picked  up  shells 
and  pebbles  to  remember  iLe  spot,  and  by  one  o'clock  everybody  was  back 

to  his  place.  .       .        '. 

'  Two  boats  full  of  i>eople  came  alongside  soon  after  and  stayed  on  board 

while  we  steamed  back  to  Uraga.     Yezaimon  especially  took  much  interert 

in  seeing  the  working  of  such  stupendous  machinery  and  inquiring  into  the 


FALL  OF  THE  TOKUGAWA  SHOGUNATE    cclxxvii 

manofer  of  tumizig  the  wheels.  One  of  our  visitora  was  the  military  oom- 
mander  of  Uraga,  an  open-faced,  pleasant  man  who  wished  to  learn  some- 
tiujD£  of  tactics  aiid  the  construction  of  revolvers.  One  of  the  pistols  was 
fireaqff  by  Captain  BiuAanan  to grati^^  him  and  Saboroake,  and  they  ^ad 
many  measurements  to  take  of  the  cannon  on  deck;  the  latter  greatlv 
amcund  us  by  going  through  the  manual  with  a  gun  he  took  oO  the  stand, 
his  face  pursed  up  as  if  he  was  a  valiant  hero.  This  man  is  altogether  the  most 
froward,  disagre«ible  oflScer  we  have  had  on  board,  and  shows  badly  among 
the  generally  polite  men  we  have  hitherto  had,  prying  round  into  everything 
and  turning  over  all  he  saw.  At  our  request  the  party  remained  on  board 
while  we  steamed  up  to  Uraga  and  then  bade  us  good-bye.  Some  refreshments 
were  given  them  in  the  cabin,  and  they  went  off  in  good  humor.'  (Comp. 
p.  10.) 

The  Fall  of  the  Tokugawa  Shoqunatb  occurred  Oct.  14, 
1867,  a  date  that  is  *  considered  the  great  turning-point  in 
Japan's  history,  if  not  a  signal  event  in  the  history  of  the  world. 
During  nearly  3  centuries  the  Tokugauxi  had  wielded  supreme 
administrative  authority  in  Japan,-  holding  in  Yedo  a  Court 
which  lacked  no  attribute  of  stately  magnificence  or  autocratic 
strength.  On  the  day  mentioned  it  consented  to  lay  aside  its 
dignities  and  to  be  stripped  of  its  administrative  authority  in 
favor  of  tie  Emperor.'  The  date  marked  the  overthrow  of  the 
dual  system  of  gov't;  the  practical  extinction  of  feudalism;  the 
putting  aside  of  conservatism;  and  the  emerging  of  Japan  on 
the  road  *  which  since  has  led  her  to  one  of  the  highest  places 
among  the  progressive  nations  of  the  world.'  The  Meijij  or 
'  Era  of  Enlightened  Government '  (the  245th  since  the  Taikwa 
Era  of  a-d.  &5-i50),  was  inaugurated  with  the  downfall  of  the 
9hdgunale  and  the  Imperial  Restoration.  Mvisuhito,  the  123d 
Emperor,  was  crowned  at  Kyoto  Nov.  12,  1868. 

*  When  an  American  squadron  arrived  to  break  down  Japan's  isolation,  she 
did  not  poflsess  even  the  oeginning  of  a  national  fleet  or  a  national  army;  of 
an  ooean-going  mercantile  marine;  of  a  telegraphic  or  postal  system;  of  a 
newspaper  press;  of  enlightened  codes,  of  a  trained  judiciary,  or  of  properly 
organized  tribunals  of  justice;  she  knew  nothing  of  Occidental  sciences  and 
pluloeophies;  was  a  complete  stranger  to  international  law  and  to  the  usages 
d  diplomacy;  had  no  conception  of  parliamentary  institutions  or  popular 
representation,  and  wasdividcdinto  a'number  of  feudal  principalities,  each  vir- 
tually independent  of  the  other,  and  all  alike  untutored  in  the  spirit  of  nation- 
ality or  imperialism.  In  thirty  years  these  conditions  were  absolutely  meta- 
morphosed. Feudalism  had  been  abolished;  the  whole  country  united  under 
one  administration;  the  policy  of  the  State  placed  on  a  constitutional  ba.sis; 
the  people  admitted  to  a  share  in  the  government  under  representative  insti- 
tutioDfl;  an  absorbing  sentiment  of  patriotism  substituted  for  the  narrow 
local  loyalties  of  rival  fiefs;  the  country  intemected  with  telegraphs  and 
nulways,  and  its  remotest  districts  brought  within  the  circuit  of  an  excellent 
postal  ssrstem;  the  flag  of  the  nation  carried  to  distant  countries  by  a  largo 
mercantile  marine;  a  powerful  fleet  organized,  manned  by  expert  seamen, 
and  proved  to  be  as  capable  of  fighting  scientifically  as  of  navigating  the 
Mg^  seas  with  marked  immunity  from  mishap;  the  method  of  conscription 
■IHfJifdl  to  raising  a  large  miUtary  force,  provided  with  the  best  modern 
veapoDS  and  trained  according  to  Western  tactics;  the  laws  recast  on  the 
Host  advanced  principles  of  Occidental  jurisprudence  and  embodied  in 
ediauBtive  codes;  provision  made  for  the  swlministration  of  justice  by  well- 
eqpnpped  tribunaJs  and  an  educated  judiciary;  an  extensive  system  of  na- 
ImbbI  educatioa  inaugurated,  with  universities  turning  out  students  versed 
it  the  languages  of,  and  capable  of  original  research^  in,  the  scionceB  and 
]|hPM0phinn  oi  the  West;  the  State  represented  at  foreign  courts  by  compe- 
Mdiplomatists;  iib»  people  supplied  with  an  ample  number  of  journals  and 


cclxxviii  CHRONOLOGICAL  TABLE 

periodicals;  the  foundations  of  a  great  manufacturing  career  latd»  and  tiie 
respect  of  foreign  powers  unreservedly  won.  Such  a  record  may  well  ezoits 
wcmder.'   iBrinkUy.) 

The  war  with  China  in  1894-95,  and  the  stupendous  strug- 
gle with  Russia  in  1904,  are  still  too  fresh  in  the  public  mind  to 
require  a  detailed  reference  here.  The  Taisho  Era  began  in 
1912,  with  the  accession  of  the  present  Emperor.  The  best 
histories  of  Japan  are  mentioned  in  the  BibUography. 

XVn.  Chronological  Table 

( Up  to  A.D.  710  the  nameSf  dates^  and  events  are  not  toeU  auihentP' 

cated.) 

I.  From  the  teimination  of  the  Mythological  Era  (B.C.  66o)  to  that  of  the 

Nara  Epoch  (A.D.  784). 

B.C.  Jimmu  Tenn5  (b.  711)  conquers  KyushQ  and  ascends 
660  the  throne  as  the  first  Japanese  Mikado.  Japan  passes 
to  through  the  bronze  age  and  is  ruled  over  by  13  successive 
A.D.  Mikados  —  Suisei  (581-49);  Annei  (548-11);  Itoku 
710  (510-477);  Kosho  (475-393);  Koan  (392-291);  K6rei 
(290-15) ;  Kogen  (214-158) ;  Kaikwa  (157-98) ;  and  Sujin 
(97-30).  The  first  Embassy  arrives  from  Korea.  Suinin 
(B.C.  29-A.D.  71);  Keik5  (71-131);  Seimu  (131-92); 
Chaai  (192-200).  Conquest  (in  201)  of  Korea  by  the 
Empress  Jing5  (201-70).  Comp.  p.  30.  Ojin,  God  of 
War,  Mikado  (16th  ruler)  from  270  to  313.  The  first 
Chinese  books  are  brought  to  Japan.  Nintoku  (313-400) 
Richu  (400-05);  Hansho  (405-11);  Ingy5  (411-63J 
Ank5  (453-56);  Yuraku  (457-80).  Silk  industry  esti 
lished.  Semei  (480-85) ;  Kenso  (485-88) ;  Ninken  (488- 
99),  brought  tanners  from  Korea  to  teach  leather-mak- 
ing. Buretsu  (499-507);  Keitei  (507-34);  Ankan  (534- 
36);  Senkwa  (536-40).  Kumnei  (29th)  Mikado  (5-«)-72), 
brought  5000  Korean  families  to  settle  in  Japan.  Bud- 
dhism is  introduced  in  552  and  the  first  temple  erected  in 
571.  Bitatsu  (572-86) ;  Yomei  (586-88) ;  Sushun  (688-92) ; 
Suiko,  Empress,  34th  ruler  (592-629).  Chinese  calender 
introauced.  DonchS,  a  Korean  bonze,  teaches  (in  610) 
the  Japanese  to  make  paper  and  ink,  and  the  use  of  mill- 
stones. Jomei  (629-42);  Kogyoku,  Empress  (642-45); 
Kotoku  (645-55).  The  eras  are  introduced,  and  the  first 
census  taken.  Saimei,  Empress  (655-61);  Tenchi  (668- 
72) ;  Kobun  (672-73) ;  Temmu  (673-90) ;  Jit6,  Empress 
(690-96);  Monunu  (697-708).  Cremation  established. 
Lacquer  trees  planted. 

IL  The  Nara  Epoch. 

710       Nara  becomes  the  Imperial  capital.    The  Empress 

to    Gemmei  (44th  ruler  from  708  to  715)  causes  the  Kcjiki, 

784  the  firot  Japanese  history,  to  be  compiled  (in  712). 


UHRONOLCX^^ICAL  TABLE  oolx 

Copper  18  diacovered,  and  the  first  copper  money  coinc 
The  EknpresB  Genshd  (715-24)  fostered  literature  ai 
sdence,  and  published  iheNihonai,  the  second  greate 
historical  work.  Buddhism  spreads;  magnificent  tempk 
are  erected,  and  many  idols  cast.  Sh5mu,  Mikado  (724 
49);  KQken,  Empress  (749^9);  Junnin,  Mikado  (759- 
65);  ShStoku,  Empress  (765-70);  Konin,  Mikado  (770- 
82).  Printing  is  introduced.  Kwammu  (782-806).  The 
art  of  embroidery  and  orange-trees  are  brought  from 
China.  The  first  gold  is  discovered.  Syllabic  writing  is 
invented.  Cottonseeds  arrive  from  India  and  are  planted . 

m.  Hekn  Bpoch.  Rise  of  the  Fnjiwani. 

794       The  Imperial  Court  is  moved  to  Kv5to,  which  remains 
to     the  capital  until  1868.    Creation  of  the  Taira  Family 

1155  (805).  Heij5,  Mikado,  52d  ruler  (806-10).  Invention  of 
cursive  writing.  Saga,  Mikado  (810-24);  Junwa  (824- 
34);  NinunyO  (834-51);  Montoku  (851-56);  Seiwa  (856- 
77);  Yozei  (877-85);  K6k5  (885-88);  Uda  (888-98); 
Daigo  (898-931);  Shujaku  (931-47);  Murakami  (947- 
68);  Reizei  (968-70);  Enya  (970-85);  Kwazan  (985-87); 
Ichii5  (987-1012);  Sanio  (1012-17);  Go  (or  2d)-- 
IchiJ5  (1017-37);  Go-Shujaku  (1037-46);  Go-Reizei 
(1046-69);  Go-Sanj5  (1069-73);  Shirakawa  (1073-87); 
Horikawa  (1087-1108);  Toba  (1108-24);  Sutoku  (1124- 
42);  KSnoe  (1142-56).  Decline  of  the  Fujiwara. 

IV.  The  Military  Epoch.   Downfall  of  the  Taira,  and  Rise  of  the  Minamoto 

ShSgons. 

1156  Titanic  struggle  between  the  Taira  and   Minamoto 
to     clans.   Go-Shirasawa,  Empress,  78th  ruler  (1156-59); 

1199  Nijo,  Mikado  (1159-66);  Rokujo  (1166-69);  Takakura 
(1169-80);  Antoku  (1180-86).  The  Minamoto  destroys 
the  Taira  clan.  Go-Toba  (1186-99).  Minamoto  Yori- 
tomo  establishes  a  military  capital  at  Kamakura.  Feu- 
dalism and  a  dual  system  of  government  established. 
Yoritomo,  Shogun  at  Kamakura  (1192-99). 

V.  The  HGjd  Era. 

200  Minamoto  Yoriie  (2d)  Shogun  at  Kamakura  (1202- 
to  03);  Tsuchimikado  (1199-1210);  Sanetomo  3d  Shogun 
\Z9  (1203-19);  Juntoku,  85th  Mikado  (1211-22);  Chukyo 
(?-1222) ;  Go-Horikawa  (1222-33) ;  Yoritsune,  Fujiwara 
Shogun  (1220-44);  Shijo,  Mikado  (1233-43);  Yontsuga, 
2d  Fujiwara  aS/io^uti  (1244-52);  Go-Saga,  Mikado  (1243- 
47);  Go-Fukakusa  (1247-66);  Kameyama  (1266-76). 
First  Mongol  Invasion  (1274).  Go-Uda,  Mikado  (1276- 
88).  Repulse  of  the  Great  Mongol  Invasion  of  1281. 
Fushimi,  93d  Mikado  (1288-99);  Go-Fushimi  (1299- 
1301);  Go-Nijo  (1301-08);  Hanazo  no  (130^1^V,  Qrt>- 
Daigo  (1319-39). 


oclxxx  CHRONOLOGICAL  TABLE 

VL  Fall  of  the  HSjo,  and  Rise  of  the  Ashikaga. 

1339  For  60  years  (from  1332  to  1392)  a  dual  government 
to    exists,  and  rival  Mikados  hold  Northern  and  Southern 

1587  Courts  at  Kyoto.  Takauji,  1st  of  the  Ashikaga  Shogum 
(1.335-58).  Go-Murakami,  Mikado  (1339-68);  Yoshia- 
kh-a,  2d  Shdgun  (1358-68);  ChOkei,  Mikado  (1368-70); 
Go-Kameyama,  100th  Mikado  (1370-93):  Yoshimitsu, 
3d  Shogun  (1368-94);  Go-K5matsu,  Mikado  (1393- 
1412);  Yoshimochi,  Uh  Shdgun  (1394-1428)  ;Yoshikazu, 
5th  (1423-25);  Yoshinori,  6th  (1428-41);  Go-Hanazono, 
Mikado  (1429-65);  Yoshikatsu,  7th  Shdgun  (1441-43); 
Yoshimasa,  8th  (1443-74);  Go-Tsuchimikado  •  (1465- 
1501) ;  Yoshihisa,  9th  Shdgun  (1474-89) ;  Yoshitane,  10th 
(1490-93):  Yoshizumi,  11th  (1493-1508);  Go-Kasidwa- 
bara,  Mikado  (1501-27) ;  Yoshiharu,  12th  Shpoun 
(1521-45).  In  154?  the  Portuguese  discover  Japan.  They 
are  followed  by  Jesuit  missionaries  in  1549.  Go-Nara 
106th  Mikado  (1527-58) ;  Yoshiteru,  13th  Shdgun  (1545- 
65);  Yoshihide,  14th  (1568) ;  Toshiaki,  15th  and  last 
(1568-73).  Ogimachi,  107th  Mikado  (1558-87).  Perse- 
cutions of  Christians  by  Oda  Nobunaga. 

VII.  Fall  of  the  Ashikaga,  and  Rise  of  the  Tokugawa. 

1587  ()da  Nobunaga  terminates  the  AshjLka^a  Shogunate 
to    which  ruled  Japan  for  250  years.    Yedo  is  founded  in 

1708  1590.  Toyotomi  Hideyoshi  sends  an  army  to  Korea  in 
1592  (and  recalls  it  in  1598).  Go-Yozei,  108th  Mikado 
(1587-1612).  Will  Adams  reaches  Japan  in  1600.  Great 
Battle  of  Sekigahara  (1600).  Opening  of  Dutch  Com- 
merce (1610).  leyasu  establishes  the  Tokugawa  Sho- 
j5unate  (which  rules  Japan  for  upward  of  250  years)  and 
becomes  the  first  Shdgun  (1603-05).  Hidetada,  2d  Shd- 
gun (1605-23),  persecutes  Christians;  excludes  all  for- 
eigners except  Dutch,  Koreans,  and  Chinese;  and  forbids 
Japanese  to  leave  the  country.  Christianity  interdicted 
in  1614.  Period  of  isolation  begins  (1624).  lemitsu,  3d 
Shdgun  (1623-51).  Go-Mino-o,  Mikado  (1612-30); 
Myosho,  Empress  (1630-44);  Go-Komyo,  Mikado 
(1644-55);  Iet«una,  4th  Shdgun  (1651-80);  Gosai-in, 
112th  Mikado  (1655-63);  Reigen  (1663-87);  Tsunayo- 
shi,.5th  Shdgun  (1680-1709);  Higashiyama,  114th 
Mikado  (1687-1710).  Kaempfer  visits  Japan  in  1690- 
92.  Great  earthquake  at  Yedo  in  1703.  Last  eruption  of 
Mt.  Fuji  in  1708. 

Vm.  Decline  of  the  Tokugawa  Regime. 

1709  lenobu,  6th  Shdgun  (1709-13);  Nakamikado,  115th 
to     (1710-36);  letsiwi,  7th  Shdgun  (1713-16):  Yoshimune, 

1853  8th  (1716-45);  Sakuramachi,  116th  Mikado  (1736-47); 


GHHOlKiLOQICI^  iSABLB 

leshige,  9th  Shdgun  .(1745-aQX^^omoioEio,  117th 
Mikado  (1747-^n  I^h^M*  vm*  Shdgun  (1700^); 
GorSakurammihi.  Eimprass  (1703-71);  Go-MoippBODo, 
Mikado  a77i-aQ);  Ebkaku  (1780-1817);  I(saari<  llth 
'  Shdgim  (1785-1838);  NinkO,  121st  Mikado  (1817-47)^ 
leyoBhi,  I2th  Shdgun  (1838-5?). 

IX.  Aixifal  of  Commodora  FsRy*  F«II  <tf  ttte  TokqcMm  ShSguMite. 

1854.  Ferry  reaches  Japan  in  1853.  first  treaty  nHth  the 
to    United  States  signed  March  31«  1854.. .  Great  earthquake 

1868  m  Yedo  in  1855.  KOmd,  122d  Mikado  (1847-67); 
Imnochi,  14th  Shdgun  (1858-66).  Second  treaty  with 
the  United  Statesin  1858.  Tok<Hiama  opiened  to  foreign 
interootnrae  (1858).  First  Japanese  Embassy  goiss  abroad 
in  I860.  Fust  newspaper,  1B63.  Keiki,  15th  ($axd  last)  of 
the  SI^Hnms  (1866t67),  resignff  Nov.  19.  Extinctioii  of 
the  Sh5gunate; 

X.  T|te  RMtacfttkm,  tndihe  IC^  Si*. 

1868      Accession  of  Mutsuhito,  123d  Mikado  (1868-1912). 
to    Imperial-Tokugawa  war  (1868-69).  Yedo  becomes  the 
1910  caiHtal  and  is  called  T5ky5.  TOl^d  and  Niigata  opened 
to  foreigners.  Abolition  of  feudalism  in  1871.   First  rail- 
way opened  between  Tdky5  and  Yokohama   0.872). 
.  Adoptionof  Gregorian  calendar  (1873).  Repeal  of  JEkiibts 
against  Christians.    Expedition   to    Formosa   (1874). 
Japanese  rights  in  Saghahen  ceded  to  Russia  in  exchaii|;e 
for  the  Kunles  (1875).  Wearing  of  swords  interdicted  m 
1876.    Treaty  with  Korea.    Satsuma  rebellion  (1877>. 
Loochoo  Islands  annexed  (1879).   Penal  code  establLshed 
(1880).  Orders  of  nobility  established  (1884).  Buddhism 
disestablished.   Constitution'  promulgated,  and  duels  in- 
terdicted (1889).   First  Diet  meets  in  1890.  Great  earth- 
?uake  at  Uifu  in  1891.  War  with  China  declared  in  1894. 
*eace  treaty  signed  at  Shimonoseki  in  1895.   Formosa  is 
added  (1895)  to  the  Empire  and  Japan  becomes  a  col- 
onizing power.  Gold  standard  adopted  (1897).  Abolition 
of  extraterritorial  tribunals  (1899).  All  ford§piers  placed 
under  Japanese  lawi  Japan  assists  the  foreign  powers  to 
.    suppress  the  Boxer  insurrection  (1900).   An^lo-Japanese 
alliance  (1902).  Wax  declared  against  Russia,  Feb.  11  ^ 

1904.  Peace  treaty  arranged  Aug.  20,  and  ratified  Oct.  5, 

1905.  Korea  annexed  (Aug.  1910). 

XI.  Taisho  Era. 

1012      The  death  of  Mutsuhito   (known  as  Meiji  Tenn5), 
^    July  30,  1912,  terminates  the  45  years  of  the  MeiJi  (oc 
''--iniditened')  Era,  and  inaugurates  the  Tidsho  Bra 

midikaao,  1912 — ; 


oclxxx  CHRONOLOGICAL  TABLE 

VL  Fall  of  the  Hojo*  and  Rise  of  the  Ashikaga* 

1339  For  60  years  (from  1332  to  1392)  a  dual  government 
to    exists,  and  rival  Mikados  hold  Northern  and  Southern 

1§87  Courts  at  Kyoto.  Takauji,  1st  of  the  Ashikaga  Shoguns 
(1,335-58).  Go-Murakami,  Mikado  (1339-68);  Yoshia- 
kira,  2d  Shdgun  (1358-68);  Ch5kei,  Mikado  (1368-70); 
Go-Kameyama,  100th  Mikado  (1370-93):  Yoshimitsu, 
3d  Shdgun  (1368-94);  Go-K6matsu,  Mikado  (1393- 
1412) ;  Yoshimochi,  4th  Shdgun  (1394-1428) ;  Yoshikazu, 
5th  (1423-25) ;  Yoshinori,  6th  (1428-41);  Go-Hanazono, 
Mikado  (1429-65);  Yoshikatsu,  7th  Shdgun  (1441-43); 
Yoshimasa,  8th  (1443-74);  Go-Tsuchimikado  •  (1465- 
150X) ;  Yoshihisa,  9th  Shogun  (1474-89) ;  Yoshitane,  lOth 
(1490-93):  Yoshizumi,  11th  (1493-1508);  Go-Kashiwa- 
bara,  Mikado  (1501-27) ;  Yoshiharu,  12tli  Shdoun 
(1521-45).  In  1542  the  Portuguese  discover  Japan.  They 
are  followed  by  Jesuit  missionaries  in  1549.  CJo-Nara 
106th  Mikado  (1527-58);  Yoshiteru,  13th  Shdgun  (1545- 
65) ;  Yoshihide,  14th  (1568) ;  Toshiaki,  15th  and  last 
(1568-73).  Ogimachi,  107th  Mikado  (1558-87).  Perse- 
cutions of  Christians  by  Oda  Nobunaga. 

Vn.  Fall  of  the  Ashikaga,  and  Rise  of  the  Tokugawa. 

1587  Oda  Nobunaga  terminates  the  Ashjkapa  Shogunate 
to    which  ruled  Japan  for  250  years.   Yedo  is  founded  in 

1708  1590.  Toyotomi  Hideyoshi  sends  an  army  to  Korea  in 
1692  (and  recalls  it  in  1598).  Go-Yozei,  108th  Mikado 
(1587-1612).  Will  Adams  reaches  Japan  in  1600.  Great 
Battle  of  Sekigahara  (1600).  Opening  of  Dutch  Com- 
merce (1610).  leyasu  establishes  the  Tokugawa  Sho- 
gunate (which  rules  Japan  for  upward  of  250  years)  and 
becomes  the  first  Shdgun  (1603-05).  Hidetada,  2d  Shd- 
gun (1605-23),  persecutes  Christians;  excludes  all  for- 
eigners except  Dutch,  Koreans,  and  Chinese;  and  forbids 
Japanese  to  leave  the  country.  Christianity  interdicted 
in  1614.  Period  of  isolation  begins  (1624).  lemitsu,  3d 
Shdgun  (1623-51).  Go-Mino-o,  Mikado  (1612-30); 
Myosho,  Empress  (1630-44);  Go-Komyo,  Mikado 
(1644-55);  letsuna,  4th  Shdgun  (1651-80);  Gosai-in, 
112th  Mikado  (1655-63);  Reigen  (1663^87);  Tsunayo- 
8hi,.5th  Shdgun  (1680-1709);  Higashiyama,  114th 
Mikado  (1687-1710).  Kaempfer  visits  Japan  in  1690- 
92.  Great  earthquake  at  Yedo  in  1703.  Last  eruption  of 
Mt.  Fuji  in  1708. 

Vm.  Decline  of  the  Tokugawa  Regime. 

1709  lenobu,  6th  Shdgun  (1709-13);  Nakamikado,  115th 
to     (1710-36);  letsugu,  7th  Shdgun  (1713-16):  Yoshimune, 

JS^  8th  (1716-45);  Sakuramachi,  116th  Mikado  (1736-47); 


CHRONOLOGICAL  TABLE  oebbEsi 

leshige,  9th  Sh5gun  (1745-60);  Momozono,  117th 
Mikado  (1747-63)j^  lehani  10th  Shogun  (1760-86); 
Go-Sakuramachi,  Empress  (1763-71);  Oo-Mompzono, 
Mikado  (1771-80);  KSkaku  (1780-1817);  lenari,  11th 
Shoffun  (1786-1838);  Nink6,  121st  Mikado  (1817-47); 
leyoshi,  12th  Shdgun  (1838-53). 

IX.  Axriyal  of  Commodore  Perry.  Fall  of  the  Tokugawa  ShSgooate. 

54.  Perry  reaches  Japan  in  1853.  First  treaty  with  the 
0  United  States  signed  March  31,  1854.  Great  earthquake 
68  in  Yedo  in  1855.  K5mei,  122d  Mikado  (1847-67); 
lemochi,  14th  Shdgun  (1858-66).  Second  treaty  with 
the  United  States  in  1858.  Yokohama  opened  to  foreign 
intercourse  (1858).  First  Japanese  Embassy  goes  abroad 
in  1860.  First  newspaper,  1863.  Keiki,  15th  (and  last)  of 
the  Shoguns  (1866-67),  resigns  Nov.  19.  Extinction  of 
the  Shogunate. 

Z.  The  Restoration,  and  the  Meiji  Era. 

68  Accession  of  Mutsuhito,  123d  Mikado  (1868-1912). 
3  Imperial-Tokugawa  war  (1868-69).  Yedo  becomes  the 
10  capital  and  is  called  Toky5.  Tokyo  and  Niigata  opened 
to  foreigners.  Abolition  of  feudalism  in  1871.  First  rail- 
way opened  between  TSkyo  and  Yokohama  (1872). 
Adoption  of  Gregorian  calendar  (1873).  Repeal  of  Edicts 
against  Christians.  Expedition  to  Formosa  (1874). 
Japanese  rights  in  Saghalien  ceded  to  Russia  in  exchange 
for  the  Kuriles  (1875).  Wearing  of  swords  interdicted  m 
1876.  Treaty  with  Korea.  Satsuma  rebellion  (1877). 
Loochoo  Islands  annexed  (1879).  Penal  code  established 
(1880).  Orders  of  nobility  established  (1884).  Buddhism 
disestablished.  Constitution  promulgated,  and  duels  in- 
terdicted (1889).  First  Diet  meets  in  1890.  Great  earth- 
quake at  Gifu  in  1891.  War  with  China  declared  in  1894. 
Peace  treaty  signed  at  Shimonoseki  in  1895.  Formosa  is 
added  (1895)  to  the  Empire  and  Japan  becomes  a  col- 
onizing power.  Gold  standard  adopted  (1897).  Abolition 
of  extraterritorial  tribunals  (1899).  All  foreigners  placed 
under  Japanese  law.  Japan  assists  the  foreign  powers  to 
suppress  the  Boxer  insurrection  (1900).  Anglo-Japanese 
alliance  (1902).   War  declared  against  Russia,  Feb.  11, 

1904.  Peace  treaty  arranged  Aug.  20,  and  ratified  Oct.  5, 

1905.  Korea  annexed  (Aug.  1910). 

XI.  Taisho  Era. 

12      The  death  of  Mutsuhito   (known  as  Meiji  Tenno), 
0    July  30,  1912,  terminates  the  45  years  of  the  Meiji  (or 
14  'enlightened')    Era,  and   inaugurates   the   Taisho  ¥iT«k 
..  C  Way  of  Heaven,'  or  'Era  of  Great  Equity^.  Yo^VS[i\\o, 
l24ihMJkado,  1912—.     ' 


Ixxxii  BIBLIOGRAPHY 

XVnL  Bibliography 

The  Biblioffraphy  of  the  Japanese  Empire,  compiled  by  Fr.  Von  Wendh 
tern  (T5ky5,  1907)  as  a  supplement  to  Lion  Pagi'a  Biolioffraphie  Japenr 
(we,  catalogues  upward  of  12,000  books  and  monographB  written  in  Euro- 
pean languages  on  Japan  between  a.d.  894  and  1906.  The  intervening 
/ears  have  added  so  many  books  to  this  formidable  list  that  the^  present 
uterature  on  the  country  is  enormous.  The  student  limited  for  time,  idio 
seeks  facts  rather  than  impressions,  will  find  them  in  the  scholarly  modem 
works  of  Chamberlain,  Brinkley,  Rein,  Hepburn,  Aeton,  Conder,  Qr\ffia,  Mur- 
doch, Batchelor,  Munro,  Heam,  and  a  few  other  Japanolomsts  of  attainments 
and  discernment.  The  following  necessarily  brief  list  nas  been  eoiknpiled 
witii  care,  and  while  it  does  not  purport  to  include  all  the  good  books  inrlt- 
ten  (in  English)  about  Japan  and  its  people  and  arts,  it  is  hoped  that  it  will 
be  found  useful.  Rein^e  admirable  books  —  models  of  Teutonic  thorough- 
ness—  tmfortimately  are  out  of  print,  but  stray  copies  can  sometimesbe 
found  in  Continental  bookshops.  A  proper  understanding  of  Japan  in  toto  is 
difficult  without  Brinkley' »  immensely  valuable  and  attractively  illustrated 
works  embraced  in  the  Oriental  Seriea.  Chamberlain's  Things  Japanese 
covers  a  wide  range  and  gives  the  gist  of  niany  things  of  interest  to  travelers. 
His  Handbook  of  Colloquial  Japanese  is  indispensable  to  the  student  of  the 
language.  Murdoch's  monumental  history  gives  the  traveler  the  facts  gar- 
nered from  many  histories  in  the  vernacular,  and  is  recommended  for  solid 
reading.  No  more  delightful  books  for  the  voyage  to  Japan  can  be  found  than 
the  numerous  works  of  Lafcadio  Heam,  since  they  are  not  only  instruotive 
but  are  couched  in  language  beautiful  in  its  lyrical  quality.  It  goes  without 
saying  that  the  greater  amount  of  information  one  has  at  one's  command 
regarding  Japan^  the  greater  will  be  one's  enjoyment  of  a  trip  throng  tiie 
ooimtr:^.  Books  in  addition  to  those  listed  below  are  referred  to  in  dinerent 
places  in  the  Guidebook. 

Historical  Works.  A  History  of  Japan,  from  the  Origins  down  to  t649,  by 
James  Murdoch  (Tdkyo,  1910).  The  2d  vol.  (Kobe,  1903)  is  a  history  of  the 
country  between  1542  and  1651.  —  Narrative  of  the  Expedition  of  an  Anurir 
can  Squadron  to  the  China  Seas  and  Japan,  under  the  command  of  Commodore 
M.  C.  Perry,  by  Francis  L.  Hawks  (published  by  the  U.S.  Gov't  at  Washing- 
ton, in  1856).  —  The  Mikado's  Empire,  by  William  Elliot  Oriffis  (New 
York,  1899).  — History  and  Geography  of  Japan  (historical  and  geographical 
dictionary),  by  E.  Papinot,  with  300  illus.  and  several  maps  (Y<^onama, 
1905),  a  valuable  work  for  reference.  —  Townsend  Harris  in  Japan,  by 
WiUiam  Elliot  Oriffis  (London,  1895).  — History  of  Christianity  in  Japan, 
by  Otis  Cary  (2  vols.,  Chicago,  1909).  —  A  History  of  Japanese  Literature, 
by  W.  O.  Aston  (London,  1898). 

Works  on  Art.  OrierUal  Series,  by  Captain  F.  Brinkley  (J.  B.  Millet  Co.. 
Boston,  1901).  Limited  to  1000  copies.  Of  the  12  vols.,  the  first  8  treat  of 
Japan,  its  history,  art,  and  Uterature;  the  remainder,  of  China.  Handsomely 
illustrated  with  colored  plates.  Recommended.  —  The  Industries  of  Japan, 
by  J.  J.  Rein  (2  vols.,  London,  1889).  —  Landscape-Gardening  in  Japan,  by 
Josiah  Conder  (2  vols.,  T5ky5,  1893).  —  A  History  of  Japanese  Colour 
PrirUs,  by  W.  von  Seidlitz  (London  and  Philadelphia,  1910). —  The  Pic- 
torial Arts  of  Japan,  by  William  Anderson  (Houghton  Mifflin  C^.,  Boston. 
1886).  —  Japanese  Wood  Engravings,  by  the  same  author  (London,  1908).  — 
Japanese  Enamels,  by  James  L.  Bowes  (London,  1886).  —  Japanese  Pottery, 
by  the  same  author  (London,  1890).  —  Japanese  Marks  and  Smla,  by  the 
same  author  (London,  1882) .  —  The  Painters  of  Japan,  by  Arthur  Morrison 
(2  vols.,  London,  1911). 

Descriptive.  The  following  books  by  Lafcadio  Heam  were  published  by 
Houghton  Mifflin  Co.,  Boston,  in  1894-95,  but  have  since  gone  through 
numerous  editions:  Glimpses  of  Unfamiliar  Japan,  2  vols. ;  Out  of  the  Ecut, 
1  vol.;  Kokoro,  1  vol.;  Romance  of  the  Milky  Way,  and  Other  Studies  and 
Stories;  Kwaidan;  Stray  Leaves  from  Strange  Literature;  Gleanit^f9  in 
Biuidha  Fields;  —  Japan,  an  Attempt  at  Interpretation,  by  the  same  auUior,  is 
published  by  The  Macmillan  Co.  (New  York,  1905).  — The  Japanese  LeUers 
of  Lafcadio  Hearn,  by  Elizabeth  Bisland  (2  vols.,  Houghton  Mifflin  Co., 
toW).  —  In  Loitu-Land  Japan,  by  Herbert  G.  Panting  (Macmillan  A  Co., 


BIBLIOORAPBY  cdxnm 


Londoii.  1910).  —  In  /comm.  by  Otuton  Mioetm  (London.  1906).  —  OecuU 
Japan,  by  Perchai  Lamm  (HoWton  Bfifflin  Co.,  1895).  Tkt  SmA  (^Uie  Far 
Bastt  by  the  SAme  author  (18^.  —  Bttry-Dan  Japan,  by  Arthur  Uoyd 
(London.  1911).  —  Tk»  CavUai  «f  Ae  Tycoon,  by  Sir  Buiherford  Ateoek 
(London,  1863).  —  Tauitq  Japan,  hy  John  B.  EUaek  (London,  1886).  — 
LeUers  from  Japan,  by  Mrt,  Jvtww  Fraa§r  (New  Yoric,  1904) .  —  JapoMM 
Oirh  and  Wowten,  toy  AUee  Mabd  Bacon  (Houghton  MiflBin  (3o.,  Boston, 
1903). 

Mucelhuieoas.  Booln  by  Baail  Hatt  Chamberlain :  Thinoe  Japanese 
(Yokohama,   1906).  —  Japanese  Poetry  (Yokohama,    1910);    A     Hand- 
book of  CoUog^uial  Japanne  (Yokohama,  1889) ;  Qrammar  of  the  Japanese 
Spoken  Language,  by  IF.  O,  Asian  (London,  1S8S).  —  An  unabridced  Japan- 
eae-Engliwh  dictionary,  by   Captain  F.  BrirMey  (1687  pa«^  for  table  use; 
Tokyd,  1896).  —  Jwpiineao  Engiiiih  and  Enfl^iah-Jwaneae  Diotionaiy  (pocket 
aiie)^  by  J.  C.  Heptn/m  (Yokohama,  1887).  —  A  Uandbook  of  Modem  Japan^ 
by  Brnest  W.  Clement  (A.  C.  MoCnunc  &  Co..  Chicago,  1913).—  HerpeMogy 
of  Japan  and  Adjacent  TerrUory,  by  iMmhard  Stejneger  (Washington,  Gov't 
Printing-Office,  1907).  —  The  .FvU  Beeognition  of  Japan,  by  Bobitrt  P,  Por- 
ter (London,  1911).  —  Japanese  Homes,  by  Bdwara  S.  Morse  (New  York, 
189&).  —  The  Japanese  Nation,  by  Dr.  Inaso  Nitobe  (Tdkyd,  1913).  — .  Tales 
of  (Hd  Japan,  by  A.  B.  Mitford  (New  York,  1893).  —  Who  's  Who  in  Japan, 
^  S.  Kurita  CTSkyd,  1914).  —  The  Peerage  of  Japan  (1000  pages;  price, 
¥i35),  pubHahed  by  the  Japan  Oasette  (of  Ydcohama),  contains  an  immense 
amount  of  comprossod  mf(»mation  about  the  Lnpenal  Court,  titles,  ranks, 
etc.,  and  la  invaluaUe  as  a  woric  of  reference.  —  The  Japan  Tear  Book  (pub- 
lished annually  by  the  same  Ck>.)  ¥2,  50. — T%e  Coins  of  Japan,  by  Neil  Gordon 
Mwtro  (Yokohfluoa,  1904).  —  Home  Life  in  Tdkyd,  by  Jukiehi  Inouye 
(T5ky5,  1910).  —  imntO,  The  Way  of  the  Gods,  by  W.  G.  Aston  (London, 
1905).  —  Japanese  Plays  and  PtayfeOows,  by  Osman  Edwards  (London, 
1901).  —  Kevised  books  of  the  luptmfr  Taxktw  are  published  usually  by  the 
Japan  Times  (T5ky5)  newq;>aper  as  fast  as  dbanges  in  the  tariff  are  made. 
The  CoMicsBCiAL  ana  Civil  Codbs  of  Japan,  by  /.  B.  de  Becker,  are  on  sale 
at  the  bookstores.  —  The  antiquarian  wul  find  much  to  interest  him  in  the 
old  volumes  of  the  Transactions  of  the  Asiatic  Society  of  Japan,  usually  on 
file  at  the  Yokohama  United  Qub. 


I 


jC       t    '  ■ 


.  ■  •  1  • 


L  GENTML  JAPAN 


I  ' 


Route  ■ 

1.  YokoluuDa  «ad  its  Envinms  •.*•••»••      3 

a.  Pnedoal  Kotos  •  .    v 8 

b.  Situatioiit  Hiototy,  and  Ohanwtor  of  the  Ci^       .    -.    .  10 

c.  Walka  through  the  Foreign  and  Jnpaimo  Quarteii    •    .  19 

d.  Excursions' «..,.,..  23 

2.  From  Yokohaina  "nA  Kamakura,  (^hioahima}  to  : 

YokoBuka  (Uraga  and  Miaaki)  .   '.    .'   1    .    ..  ;.    28 

The  Kamakura  Dalbutsu.  20; .  Hase-no-Kwannon  Temple, 
30:  Tem^  of  Haehiman,  80:  The  Kenohfiii,  81;  £nk»- 
kuji,  33;  Knnrfiima.  84;  Dsuahi,  87;  Yokosuka»  87:  Grave 
of  Witt  Adams,  38;  F^ny  Monument,  89;  Mbaki,  40. 

3.  From  Yokohama  around.  FujiHsan  to  BhGji  ...    40 

Lake  Sh&X  43;  Fn»n  EOiOil  to  l^e J^  River,  i4;  Rapids  of 
the  F^ikawa,  44;  hpm  OkOi^  viOifOce  Motosu  to  the 
T6kaidfi.4^.     .  "  / 

4.  From  Yokohama  to  the  smnmit  of  Fuji-san.    .    .    45 

5.  From  Yokohama  to  Miyanoshita,  Lake  HMkarBB.'- 
and  Atami.  ■  ■  .<  ^    .    .    ,    .    .    .    ......    54 

Miyanoshita,  80;  Walks  and  Exonnibns,  67;  Hakone  Lake, 
62;  TenF»>vinoePass,68;Atami,64;  The  Atami  Qeyaer, 
64;  From  Atami  to  Odawara  (aiid  Yokohama),  1(6. 

6.  From    Yokohama    vi&    T5ky0    to    Kaniisawit)'  ' 

Nagano,  Naoetsu  and  Niigata  (Sado  Island)      .    .    65 

Myp^-san.  67;  Yamato  Dake,  68; .  Eandsawa,  68;  Kose 
Hot  Sprmgs^;  Haiiare-Yama,  72;  Usqi  Pass,  72;  Asama- 
^mfia,  78;  The  Lava  Stream,  74:'  Nagano.  78;  ZenkA 
Temple,  78:  Naoetsu.  81;  The  Oil  Industry.  83;  Kiii^ta, 
83;  Sad6  Idaxul,  86.  . 

7.  From  Yokohama  to  Ikao  and  Kusatsu    .    .    .    .    85 

Native  Birds,  88;  Walk  to  Yumoto,  88;  Kompira-«an,  89; 
Seven-Fold  Cascade,  90;  Benten  Waterfall.  90;  Lake  Ha- 
runa  and  the  Hanma  Jinja,  92;  Haruna  Village,  94 ;  Mitu- 
sawa  Kwannon  Temple,  96;  Ikao  to  Kusatsu,  96;  Kusa- 
tsu, 99 ;  The  Hot  Springs.  99 ;  The  Baths.  100;  Lepers,  101  { 
Walk  to  Sai-no-Kawara,  103;  Ascent  of  Shirane-san,  104. 

8.  From  Yokohama  to  the  Bonin  Islands     ....  105 

9.  From  Yokohama  vi&  Kawasaki,  Kamata  (Ikegami) 
and  Omori  to  Tokyo .    .107 

Kawasaki  Daishi,  107;  Kamata  Flower  Qaidens,  IQSi  Ike- 
gami A  The  Hommonji,  108. 

10.  T6ky6 i. 109 

a.  Railway  Sfcaticms.  109;  Ticket  Offices.  110;  Hotels.  110; 
Boarding-Houses,  110;  Restaurants.  110;  Inns,  111.— 6. 
Means  of  TranspKnrtation: — Tazicabs,  111;  Automobiles, 
lll;Cabs,  111;  Jinrikis.lll;Electric  Street-Gars,  112;  Ele- 
vated Railway.  112;  River-boats,  112.— c.  Post,Tdem;aph. 
and  Telephone  Offioe8,l  12 ;  Railway  and  Steamship  Cffioes ; 
Shipping  agents;  Tourist  Agencies.  118.  — d.  Shops,  113; 
Churche8,lI4;  Embassies  andLegations.116;  Newraapers, 
115;  Physicians«nd  I>entists,l  15;  Banks,  116;  Clubs,  116: 
Baths,  115;  Climate,  116. — a.  Theaters,  116;  Festivalsand 
Flower  Displays,  116;  Wrestling   Matches,  1^7;   Plum 
Trees,  118;'Peach,118;  Cherry,  118;  Imperial  Cberry-Blos- 
Bom  Garden  Party,118;TheP6ar,119;Fir^WaUdDgCei«- 


A 


CENTRAL  JAPAN 


Route 

mony,  119;  The  Wistaria,  119;  Boys'  Festival,  119;  The 
Peony,  119 ;  The  Azalea,  120;  The  Iris,  120;  Opening  of  the 
Sumida  River,  120;  Lotus  Mower,  120;  Chrysantbwnnm, 
120;  Imperial  Chrysanthemum  Garden  Party,  120;  The 
Maple,  120;  The  Camellia,  121. 

Disposition  of  Time 12S 

Situation,  History,  and  Character  of  the  City      •    .  122 
The  Central  Quarter  .    .    .    .' 13^ 

House  of  ParUament,  136;  Hibiya  Park,  136;  Japan  limes 
Office,  137;  Imperial  Theater,  137;  Nippon  Yusen  Kaisha 
and  Toyo  Kisen  Kaisha,  139;  Mercantile  Marine,  139; 
Municipal  Offices,  139;  Central  Railway  Station,  139; 
Government  Offices,  140;  Ginza  Methodist  Church,  140; 
The  Gimia,  140;  Kyobashi,  144;  Nihonbashi,  146;  Stook, 
and  Produce  Exchanges,  146;  Central  Post-Office,  146; 
FishWarerooms,  146;  Mitsui  Bussan  Kaisha,  147;  Yoko- 
hama Specie  Bank,  147;  Bank  of  Japan,  147;  Shdheibashi 
Station,  148;  Bronze  Monument,  148;  Russian  Orthodox 
Church,  148. 

The  Imperial  Palace  and  Neighborhood     ....  146 

.Fukiage  Landscape  Garden,  151 ;  Divisions  of  the  Palace,  151 ; 
TheGates,  152;  TheMoats,  153;  TheWalls,154;  Monument 
to  Kusunoki  Masashige,  154;  Crown  Prince's  Palace,  154; 
Kudan  Hill,155;  Yasukuoi  Jinja,155;  Museum  of.Arm8,157. 

The  Southwest  Quarter 150 

The  Foreign  Office,  159;  British  and  American  EmbaaaieB, 
160;  Okura  Fine  Arts  Museum,  160.— Shiba  Park,168;.The 
Shiba  Mausolea,  169;  The  Great  Gate,  171 ;  Priests'  Apart- 
ments, 171 ;  Mortuary  Shrine  of  the  7th  and  9th  ShSguns, 
171 ;  Oratory  of  the  9th  Sh5gun,174;  Mausoleum  of  the  6th, 
12th,  and  14th  Sh5guns,174;  Tomb  of  the  6thSh5gun,177; 
Reliquary  of  the  Shoguns'  Consorts,  177;  Mausoleum  of 
the  2d  Shogun,  179;  Octagonal  Hall,  183 ;  The  Pagoda,  183; 
TheTdshdgu,184;  The  Benten  Shrine,  185.— Atago-Yama, 
185;  The  Keio  University,  185;  Tombs  of  the  Forty-Seven 
Ronin,186;  The  Hei-jinja,187;  Shimizudani  Park,188;  Ao- 
yama  Palace,  Military Parade-Ground,  and  Cemetery,188. 

The  Northeast  Quarter 18B 

Koishikawa  Arsenal  Garden,  188;  Gokaku-Ji,  189;  Lafcadio 
Heam'8Grave,190;  The  Imperial  University,  191;  Seismo- 
log^cal  Observatory,  194;  Earthquakes,  195.^ — Prof.  Kano's 
jQjutsu  School,  197;  Dangozaka,  197.  —  Uyeno  Park,  197; 
Time  Bell,  199;  Bronze  Daibutsu,  200;  T68h5gQ,200;  The 
Lake,  200;  Imperial  Library  and  Museiun,  201;  The  Zoo, 
201;  Tosa  Fowls,  207;  Mortuary  Temples  of  the  ShOguns, 
210.  — Higashi  Hongwanji.  214;  Asakusa  Kwannon,  215; 
The  Yoshiwara,  221;  The  Sumidagawa,  227. 

Transpontine  Tokyo 228 

Muk5jima,  229;  Kameido,229;  The  Plum  Gardens,  230;  Hon 
Kiri  Iris  Garden,  231 ;  Ek5-in.  231 ;  Tsukiji,  232;  Mineral 
Museum,  232;  Commercial  Museum, 233;  Naval  Museum,. 
233;  Nishi  Hongwanji,  234.  —  T6ky5  Bay,  234. 

The  Environs  of  Tdkyd 28A 

11.  From  Tokyo  to  Vries  Island 235^ 

12.  From  T5ky5  vi&  Chiba,   Sakura  (Narita),  and 
NarutO  to  Ch5shi 236 

1.  From  TOkyO  vi&  Chiba,  Soga  (Kisarazu),  and  Oami  to 
Katsuura  (Kominato),  241. 


KUTANI-WARE  cdvM 

uncased  pottery,  and  a  choice  in  dainty  native  teapots  which 
no  other  place  can  ofifer.  Beside  the  local  wares,  those  from 
other  provinces,  and  even  from  distant  China,  are  coi>ied  and 
9old  as  originals.  Much  of  the  porcelain,  for  export  is  made 
bere,  and  most  of  it  is  moderate  in  price. 

{d)  Ktttani-Wabb  (or  Kaga  porcelain)  ranks  high  among 
the  ceramic  productions  of  Japan,  and  the  best  pieces,  because 
af  their  careful,  efifective,  and  peculiar  decoration,  are  classed 
by  some  with  the  most  beautiful  that  the  industry  has  fur- 
nished. It  is  believed  to  owe  its  origin  to  Maeda  ToshiharUj 
r^udal  lord  of  Tkdshoji,  in  Kaga  Province,  who,  after  coming 
iiito  power  in  1639.  brought  a  potter  from  Kyoto  and  commis- 
sioned him  to  seek  material  for  fine  clay  wares.  A  bed  of 
excellent  porcelain  stone  was  soon  discovered  near  the  villa^ 
of  Kutanif  and  the  ceramic  industry  was  inaugurated.  It  did 
not,  however,  become  of  much  importance  until  the  secrets  of 
the  Arita  potters  had  been  filched  from  them  by  one  Goto 
Saijiroy  who  went  to  Hizen  for  the  purpose.  Upon  his  return 
^  1664,  the  Kutani  potters  rapidly  attained  a  high  standard 
^f  skill.  *  The  wares  that  they  produced  (says  Captain  BrinJdey) 
^ere  of  two  kinds.  The  first,  and  more  characteristic,  was 
^(hKvianij  so  caUed  from  a  deep-green  (ao)  glaze,  of  great 
^liUiancy  and  beauty,  which  was  largely  used  in  its  decoration, 
t^  ^aze  (along  with  yellow,  purple,  and  soft  Prussian  blue) 
'^as  applied  so  as  to  form  diapers,  scrolls,  and  floral  designs, 
^i  was  simply  nm  over  patterns  traced  in  black  on  the  biscuit. 
tTie  chief  colors  used  in  the  second  class  were  green  and  red, 
*\ipplemented  by  purple,  yellow,  blue  (enamel),  silver,  and 
iOld.  The  Kutani  red  was  a  specialty,  —  a  peculiarly  soft, 
'Xibdued,  opaque  color,  varying  from  rich  Indian  red  to  russet 
^lown.  For  designs  the  early  potters  copied  miniature  land- 
^Japes,  flowers  ruffled  by  the  breeze,  sparrows  perched  among 
Mum  branches,  and  other  glimpses  of  nature  m  her  simplest 
lairb.  On  some  of  their  choice  pieces  the  decoration  is  of  a 
Purely  formal  character,  —  diapers,  scrolls,  and  medallions 
ticlosing  conventional  symbols.  On  others  it  is  essentially 
Pictorial.  The  amateur  may  be  tolerably  confident  that  speci- 
*3ens  decorated  with  peacocks,  masses  of  chrysanthemums 
•Bd  peonies,  figures  of  wrinkled  saints,  brightly  appareled 
^es,  cocks  upon  drums,  etc.,  belong  to  the  manufactures  of 
Qodem  times.  For  decorative  effect,  combined  with  softness 
•nd  artistic  beauty,  the  Ao-KiUani  has,  perhaps,  no  equal. 
Is  charm  is  due  primarily  to  the  admirable  harmony  of  its 
•olors  and  to  their  skillful  massings;  and  secondarily  to  the 
Qchnical  excellence  shown  in  the  manner  of  applying  the 
•namels.' 

The  KiUanirware,  exported  so  largely,  usually  carries  deco- 
^atk»8  of  red  and  gold,  with  human  figures,  flowers,  birdft, 
lioodfl^  etc.    'The  execution  is  often  of  a  very  higih  cbanyct/ex, 


cclviii  LITERATURE 

—  zniniature  painting  which  for  delicacy  and  aoouracy 

nothing  to  be  desired.  Especially  is  this  true  of  pieoas 

a  multitude  of  tiny  figures  in  gold  depicted  with  mioi 

fidehty  on  a  soUd  red  ground.'  This  flashy  modern  ware  is  im 

so  pleasing  to  the  educated  foreign  taste,  and  is  incompara' " 

less  rich  than  the  older  Ao-KiUam.  The  early  Kviani  pot 

did  not  use  their  names  to  mark  pieces,  but  put  the  IscUmz^f^y 

name    {Kviani)   or  employed    the  ideograph  fuku   CgD^— ^  "^ 


fortime  0-  The  use  of  names  (which  are  of  the  decoratOTs, 
not  the  potters)  does  not  date  farther  back  than  1850^ 
other  wares  of  considerable  beauty  are  made  in  Kaga 
under  the  name  Kagoryaki. 

(e)  Miscellaneous  Wares.  A  number  of  the  other  war»' 
for  which  Japan  is  famous  are  mentioned  in  their 
places  throughout  the  Guidebook.   The  beautiful  M'akwi —  ^| 
Ware  is  described  under  Yokohama:  Imarif  or  Hizen-Wi 
Nabeshima^akif  and  Eggshell  porcelain  in  Rte.  39; 
Ware  in  Rte.  40. 

XV.  Literature 

Literature.  The  Japanese  have  shown  less  originality  in 
development  of  their  literature  (gakumon)  than  in  that 
military  science  and  the  various  arts.  Though  greatly  indebl 
to  China  for  its  inspiration,  the  national  literature  is 
theless  an  index  of  the  national  character.    It  is,  says  Mt 
Aston,  the  Uterature  of  a  brave,  courteous,  lignt-l 
pleasure-loving  people,  sentimental  rather  than 
witty  and  humorous,  of  nimble  apprdiension,  but  not 
found;  ingenious  and  inventive,  but  hardly  capable  of 
intellectual  achievement;  of  receptive  minds  endowed  wil 
a  voracious  appetite  for  knowledge;  with  a  turn  for 
ness  and  elegance  of  expression,  but  seldom  or  never  rising  t^^    ^ 
sublimity.  /> 

Japanese  annalists  divide  their  literature  into  five  periods  p  I^ 
the  Archaic  (joko  bun),  which  begins  with  the  earliest  tradl-^  ^ 
tions  of  the  race  and  extends  to  the  establishment  of  itM0  /«.- 
national  capital  in  Kyoto;  the  Heian  or  Ancient  period^  ^ 
extending  to  the  establishment  of  the  Kamakura  shdgunatBi  i^ 
The  Mediaeval  period,  or  that  which  chronicles  the  beginning  >«. 
of  the  (Yedo  or)  Tokugawa  shogunate;  the  Modem  'period^  '-^ 
ending  with  the  Restoration  and  the  Meiji;  and  tlnrou^  the  ^ 
Meiji  to  the  present  time.  Each  coincides  with  the  chief  his*  «» 
torical  eras  through  which  the  country  has  passed^  and  eaoh»  '^  ^ 
in  foixn  and  spirit,  has  its  distinguishmg  charactenstios.  Tht  '^^ 
form  is  so  different  (writes  Baron  KikuM)  that  a  boy  who  haf  >^^ 
finished  a  course  in  the  Middle  School  would  not  be  able  to  ^ 
understand  the  Genji  Monogatarif  which  differs  (in  spirit, 
construction,   and   phraseology)   even  more  from  mmleni 


hop9. 


YOKOHAMA  /.  Bouie.    5 


me  in  mind  that  rooms  in  Bome  of  the  boarding-houaea  which  prof eas  to  be 
itda  are  often  not  available.  Also  that  ^e  rates  quoted,  espeoially  to 
inaientB.  are  but  little  less  than  those  of  real  hotels.  The  traveler  with 
[liable  baasage  will  also  wish  to  remember  that  fire  not  infrequently 
Nusea  the  E^uff,  the  elevation  of  which  sometimes  renders  the  efforts  oif 
>  fircKlepartment  ineffective.  The  alleged  hotels  that  cater  to  seamen 
I  not  for  the  average  tourist. 

TmNiBOXD  Rooms  are  sometimes  to  be  had  (consult  the  daily  newspapers 
advertisements),  but  the  lack  of  local  restaurants  militates  against  their 
lity.  Table-board  can  usuidly  be  arranged  for  at  the  hotels  at  prices  rang- 
from  ¥60  and  upward  per  month. 

?he  Japanese  Restaurants  scattered  throughout  the  native  city  serve  food 
ihe  Japanese  style  only.  Qeiaha  can  be  summoned.  Prices  vaiy  with  the 
utation  of  the  establishment  and  the  requirements  of  guests.  English  is 
always  spoken,  and  shoes  must  be  removed  at  the  entrance.  At  the  best- 
»wn  places  (first  in  the  list  below)  a  surprisin^^  varied  and  sometimes 
ioious  tiffin  can  be  had  for  ¥3  to  ¥4.50  per  pers.;  ¥5  to  ¥6.50  with  a 
lAa  accompaniment.  Special,  ou^-of-season  dishes  ^ould  be  ordered  with 
nowledge  of  what  their  cost  will  be,  as  prices  are  apt  to  be  asked  that 
lid  surprise  Claridge  or  Sherry.  It  should  also  be  remembered  that  cele- 
ted  geisha  expect  prima  donna  fees.  — Chitoae  :  79  Sumiyoahi-ch5,  Roku- 
ime  (officialdom's  favorite  rendesvous).  NartUo  (reoonmiended),  77 
oasaki-chd,  Rokuchome.  —  Yaomasa:  51  Aioi-ch5,  Sanc^me.  Kaneda: 
Onoye-ch5,  Itchome.  Miyagokawa:  110  Sumiyoehi-chO,  Itchome. 
nveya:  37  Sumiyoshi-chO,  Sanchome. 

tbops  (comp.  p.  cxii)  are  numerous,  and  as  some  of  them  sre  veritable 
seums  of  quaint  and  beautiful  art  objects,  the  traveler  with  time  to  spare 
I  be  repaid  for  visiting  them.  Those  under  foreign  management  (that  of 
hur  &  Bond,  (^posite  the  Qrand  Hoid,  stands  at  the  head)  are  custom- 
y  stocked  with  the  things  most  liked  by  foreigners,  and  fixed  prices  are 
rule.  The  chief  native  shops  are  in  or  near  Benten-d5ri.  Prices  in  many 
unstable.  A  few  only  of  the  curio-shops  specialise,  and  as  the  smaller  ones 
apt  to  ohazige  their  policy  between  two  days,  a  trustworthy  list  of  them  is 
icult  to  maintain.  Yokohama  residents  are  the  best  mentors  in  the  mat- 
of  diope,  and  the  traveler  who  contemplates  making  purchases  of  magni- 
le  can  do  no  better  than  to  seek  the  advice  of  some  fnend,  or  of  the  hotel 
nai^.  It  should  be  bome  in  mind  that  when  guides  (comp.  p.  xxvi)  are 
xn  into  unknown  shops  a  commission  is  quite  apt  to  be  added  to  the  prices 
things.  Also  that  the  intrinsic  value  of  a  curio  (see  ^.  cxiii),  in  the  accepted 
ise  of  the  word,  is  an  uncertain  quantity,  —  quite  unlike  that  of  silk, 
iry,  diver,  or  a  similar  standard  product,  —  and  that  in  dealing  with  small 
ichants  one  often  courts  deception.  —  Theater  St.  (P\.  I,  2)  is  lined  with 
y  dhops  where  a  host  of  articles  of  daily  use  are  displayed,  and  similar 
uses  flank  Motonoachi  (PI.  F,  3).  The  following  recommended  list  has  been 
mpiled  with  considerable  care,  and  in  the  belief  that  the  places  (all  of  which 
a  of  long  standing)  are  trustworthy.  Their  specialties  are  mentioned  in 
tail  because  they  are  what  foreigners  usually  look  for.  Prices  are  marked 
plain  figures  and  are  not  deviated  from  in  any  of  them;  and  the  many 
onmon  forms  of  fraud  practiced  by  certain  unscrupulous  dealers  are  dis- 
ontenanced. 

Fbe  Arts.  —  Arthur  &  Bond,  38  Water  St.  (PI.  F,  4),  a  celebrated  and 
ipular  establishment  with  numerous  departments.  Costumers  and  De- 
ners.  Goldsmiths  and  Jewelers.  —  Ladies'  Department:  Mandarin  coats; 
obroidered  Wraps;  Gowns;  Waists;  Old  Brocaiacs,  etc.  —  Men's  Depart- 
mt:  Shirts  and  Pvjamas  made  to  measure;  imported  haberdashery, 
oerican  uid  English  siiecialties.  —  Curio  Department:  Silver  and  Dam- 
niie  wares;  Carved  Furniture;  Lacquer-ware;  Antique  Jewelry;  Jade; 
sry  Carvings;  Bronses;  Brasses;  Porcelain;  Korean  and  Chinese  Curios, 
). 

Mea's  Silk  and  Cotton  Crape  Shirts,  Pyjamas,  etc. —  S.  I.  Yamaloya, 
lenten-ddri.  Widely  known  and  popular  with  foreigners.  English  spoken. 
L  H,  3).  Branches  at  Tokyo,  Kobe,  and  other  places.  The  dress-shirts  and 
Im  (American  and  EngUsh  styles),  made  to  measure  of  fine  imi;>orted 
ik  Bmo.  are  considerably  cheaper  than  the  same  grade  would  be  in  the 
LA.  (mh  which  a  big  business  is  conducted  by  mail). 


YOKOHAMA 

-lUa  Jt  Co. 
{VI-  Up  4>  —  a  maceti  ot  tbe  famoufl  house 
Wava,  30  Ben(en-dOH  NiohooH  (FL  H,  3).  - 

Niphome  (PI.  H,  3).  The  b«t  lOk  apecUltii- . , 

Embroidenn,  Pyjsnma,  DwinMomui.  UDaBrwcu-,  Horiaiy,   MMili  m 
ooatfl,  Shirt-wuBtfl.  etc.)  tin  ■  Lf 1 1 1  l>j an  in  i ■  >li  1  n ■  1 1  nl  ■  ill  1  >li  r<Miml  ■iiiilt^ 
lO  LheBQ  modeni  ator«»  wh«e  Uo^i^  is  spoken  and  prlim 
foievnei'A  woatA  ore  undentood  and  uv  oatond  to  uw 
methods.  Minor  spedalUes  of  euh  ue  Embnidered  Screen 
Smoldng-jsiikels;  Fongw  ecats:  Tea-eoiiesi  KyjHo  dolls,  eta. 
ends  equans  moko  handsonH  ouihioD-ooven.   The  naliva  ef 
nnususlljr  durable.   Kanmsa't  P  ■  -       —  ■   ■■ 

teta)  is  much  pationiaed  by  Yoli 
twanohat  JTonrtsaiai  during  tho  sv 
tbs  Imperial  Japanese  Housebold. 
PoKOalB  (oomp.  p.  mUi).    Shops  tor  tht 


primitive  vheels  Inshioiung  the  clay  into  abape ;  the  rooois  w' 

lations  are  added:  Che'"' ■- '- '—'-  —-'    - 

rooms  where  many  bea , —  .-_,  ,. —  ,.- , 

ited.   Vinton, are  welcome  wliether  or  not  they  buy;  the  Ried 


beautiful  spedmeDB  of  tho  ware  |do  two  alike)  ai 
in  are  welcome  wliether  or  not  they  buy ;  the  Ried  priosB  b 
1  in  ptsin  fi^uns;  and  coumdeaDjE  the  rare  beauty  of  the  okqesta,  s* 
le  of  the  potter,  am  conipiououeLy  modecai*. 
'invin^  notocy  was  estsbliBbed  in  Kyoto  in  a  district  known 
a,  from  which  droumstanee  the  pottery  (transferfed  to  Ytm 


fslenos  laitwn  to  ponnluiiists  bb  MalnaH-yakii^  is  a  member  of  t^  Boaid- 
' 'ilHousdiddArtbt.uidwittahiBBOD,iriHD  "  ... 


Uakuttfta-htuti,  from  which  einomstance  the  pottery  (transferrec 
hsma  in  1871)  derived  its  name.  The  orieiaBl  artist,  lliurigaan  R 
of  tbe  eelabratwi  Ky«0  potter  Chsbd,  who  worked  at  dion  and  p 

'"■ ' ■ 'unists  SB  M O'tusu-juifci).  is  a  memhf 

ht.  and  with  his  bod,  ifiBiuam  ^a __. 

ta  that  Japan  has  produced.  The  products  ot'thefC 
Bt,  and  the  pieees  suncst  in  th«r  de4icat«  k  — '"^ 
'cbromea  of  tbe  Climesa  Kayt9-hn  and  F 

ilfuLLy  Aecnrat^  with  flowers,  bamboos,  or  other  desiEL. 

monioua  tisls  that  nhowjuat  beneath  thn  Rtasa,  an  hia  qwdalliea.  Ai . 

these  are  produced  some  o(  the  finest  blue-and-white  pieces  (he  eollectoc  w 
meet  with  in  Japan.  Equally  Famous  are  hie  apple-jETcen  RfiiBes.  ho  admir^''i_; 
by  American  collectors.    To   Komti  tor  Shlian)  Mr.   Bntklrji  lOri/,«^-^ 
Striu.  vol,  8,  p.  418)  gives  the  credit  of  having  inaunursir.l  Chinese, fmhio^J 

copies^' tbe  C^eso  maeterpicces.     Kmoti'.  beet  work  ranks  with  ohoi**f 
K^ng-h-ii  specimens.  —  Traveler^  will  do  well  to  have  their,  punhuss  V*^ 

then  dchvered  to  the  BhippioK-aKent- 

IvoIT  Csrrini:  —  K.  Toyfimis,  6  Renlen-dAri.  Carvers  oan  be  saen  »' 
work  at  the  TOkyO  beadQuarten.  Camp.  p.  ccnivii.  —  Satbdmi-Wib' 
(p.  ccliv)  can  be  bouglit  to  better  advantai^  in  Ky5to,  where  it  ia  niad^' 
—  ToBToisn-BHELL  Wouu  ~  Y.  Kawiauchi  ±  Co.,  41  Benten-dOii  Nf 
ehome. 

Pbsimadea:  —  Brttt'i  Pharmacy,  60  Main  St.  (PI.  O,  4).  AmerkMii 
EnffllBh.  and  French  medicines,  perfumes  and  toilet  requisitca  suited  to  tb* 
needs  at  travelers.  Americsa  r<oda  (ountua.  PreacnptioDS  oiled  (aipart 
Enclish  faculty] .  — German  and  other  European  speciafitiea  at  the  i>«siMk 
Apahtkt.  TT-d  Main  St.  For  the  addreaKs  of  other  druf;4tore«  ooiault  tis 
local  direclocy.  In  making  purchases  at  cerlaia  of  the  native  ohamista'  riufl 
the  traveler  should  BSBurebimBelf  that  he  ia  not  buyinit  spurious  (UddlM*- 
times  injurious)  goods  put  up  locally  under  couaterfeit  forsisn  iBboln.  TmI 
apMaa  wJib  force  to  drugs.  toilsVsoapa.  and  perfumes,  and  popular  Va^Uk 
Moa  Ametieaa  apsciallies. 


Mp  AfferUs.  YOKOHAMA  1.  Rmde.    7 

«nMl  Providen:  —  Lane,  Crawford  A  Co.,  Ltd.,  69  Main  St.  (PI. 
A  species  of  Department  Store  (well  known  and  highly  spoken  oO 
raaohes  throughout  the  Far  East.  Usually  headquarters  for  Tourists' 
ites.  Agents  for  many  English  and  American  specialties  (haber- 
f\  chocolate;  candies;  fine  groceries;  jams;  marmalades;  cigars  and 
);  wines  and  liquors,  etc.) ;  Bakers;  Outfitters;  Milliners  and  Drapen. 
Tailoring  Department  men's  and  women's  clothing  (English  doth)  is 
JO  order  (by  EngUah  tailors)  cheaper  than  corresponding  grades 
be  in  the  U.S.  The  popular  Pith  Helmets  are  imported  from  India, 
dering  shoes  made  to  measure  in  Japan,  insist  that  English  or  Amer- 
,ther  be  used,  as  the  poorly  tanned  local  product  is  spongy  and  lifeless, 
lore  economical  to  buy  imported  shoes  even  at  double  the  cost  of 
lade  locally. 

rnsE  Tailobs  abound  in  Yokohama  and  usuaUy  are  as  imdnuating  as 
himting  the  traveler  furtively  to  his  lodging  with  bland  and  wheedling 
mce.  They  all  lack  the  shnnking  nature  of  the  deazy  flannel  suits 
iiey  ofiFer  to  make  in  24  hrs.  for  an  equal  number  of  yen,  but  resemble 
a  tnat  after  a  few  washings  the  suits  turn  a  Mongolian  yellow,  and 
ke  woolen  underwear.  The  serge  and  others  suitings  make  up  pinchy 
lerally  fade  quickly.  They  look  all  right  in  their  environment,  but  are 
tatible  with  home  styles.  These  celestial  outfitters  make  both  men's 
men's  clothing,  but  are  useful  chiefly  for  cleaning  and  pressing  clothes 
8en  for  a  suit). 

:«te88en  Shops:  —  J.  Curnow  A  Co.,  lAd.j  82  Main  St.  —  Lang- 
;  Co.t  Ltd.,  73  Main  St.  American  and  English  specialties  (fine  Gro- 
Wines  and  Liquors;  Cigars  and  Tobacco,  etc.)  at  both  places.  French 
mtinental  spedalties  at  L.  Caudrelxer's,  62  Main  St. 
ographers:  (Photographs,  Views,  Lantern-Slides,  etc.).  —  K, 
tvra,  A  Son,  1498,  Nakamura,  Bluflf  (PL  G,  1).  Films  and  plates 
)ed,  colored,  or  made  into  slides.  The  handjcolored  enlargments  of 
se  types  and  views,  and  the  glass  transparenciesjmake  desirable  sou- 
Photographs  of  tourists  in  Japanese  costume  a  specialty.  —  Photo- 

0  Sttppuxs:  —  Faraari  A  Co.,  32  Water  St.  —  Kimbev,  7  Honoho- 
shome. 

stores:  —  KeUy  A  Walsh,  Ltd.,  60  Main  St.  —  K.  Yoahikawa,  5 
.-ddri.  At  the  latter  shop  (English  spoken)  second-hand  books  often 

1  as  new  can  be  bought  at  considerably  less  than  the  prices  asked  for 
38;  and  if  the, proprietor  hasn't  what  the  traveler  wants,  he  knows  how 
t.  Second-hand  bookstores  (honya)  abound  in  Yokohama,  but  prices 
laterially,  and  the  bibliophile  is  advised  to  *  shop '  around  until  he 
place  that  suits  him.  The  Methodist  Publishing  House,  1  Shichome, 
T5kyd,  carries  a  large  stock  of  books  on  Far-Eastern  subjects.  Col- 
oet  Cards,  Old  Color-prints,  Maps,  and  what-not  are  generally  on 
bookstores. 

mship  Agents:  —  Toyo  Kisen  Kaisha  (Tel.  ad.,  'Toyokisen';  see  p. 
17  Water  St.  (Pl.  F,  4).  —  Nippon  Yusen  Kaisha  (Tel.  ad., 
I,*  p.  139),  10  Bund  (PI.  G,  4).  —  North  Oerman  Uoyd  (Tel.  ad., 
loyd  ';  p.  xv),H.  Ahrens  A  Co.  Nachf.  (Tel.  ad.,  'Ahrens  '),  Agents, 
fcer  St.  (PI.  G,  4).  —  Canadian  Pacific  Railway  Co' a  Royal  Mail  S.S. 
Wm.  T.  Payne,  manager.  Tel.  ad.,  *Citamprag';  p.  xii),  14  Bund 
4).  —  PeninatUar  A  Oriental  Steam  Navigation  Co.  (Tel.  ad.,  '  Pen- 
*;  p.  xv),  15  Bund  (PI.  F,  4).  —  Osaka  Shosen  Kaiaha  (Samuel 
Agts.,  Tel.  ad..  '  Orgomanes';  p.  xiv).  27  Water  St.  (PI.  G,  4);  — 
Mail  S.S.  Co.  (Tel.  ad.,  *  Solano '),  4a  Water  St.  (PI.  G,  4).  —Meaaaae- 
aritimea  de  France  (Tel.  ad.,  *  Messagerie  '),  9  Mayobashi-ch5  (PL 
—  For  the  addresses  of  the  numerous  other  lines  consult  the  Japan 
)ry.  _ 

rarding  Agents:  —  Helm  Bros.,  Ltd.  (Tel.  ad.,  *  Hehn  Bros.'),  43 
Satsimia-cho  (PI.  G,  4).  Customs  Brokers,  Stevedores,  Lan(fing, 
ig,  and  Express  (Pitt  A  ScoU,  Ltd.,  etc.)  Agents.  Branches  in  T6ky6, 
Kobe,  Moji,  and  Shimonoseki.  —  A.  Weston  (Tel.  ad.,  '  Weston '), 
Unanaroho;  agents  for  Wells,  Fargo  A  Co.,  American  Expreaa  Co.,  etc. 
iit  Agencies:  —  Thos.  Cook  A  Son  (Tel.  ad.,  *  Coupon ')«  32  Watet 
.  F,  4).  Guides  and  guidebooks;  money  exchangoa;  draita  oaaEbfid; 
idaa  tickets.  The  Collver  Toura  (Tel.  ad.,  *  CoUver '),  M  WatBt  ^\k 


YOKOHAMA 


Cp^  Iw)  both  have  officefl  in  the  port. 

iZri  On-ehame  (PI.  I,  3):  Engliih  BpakeD 
I    Charlaed  Baili  oj  India,  j4u«rali 
L   (EnBUeh).  —  iMrmationai   BaHk.  .,     __ 
1]  (Amerioiui)^^ — DrulKh-Anrtiitf^  Bank 


_t.  —  Andrtwa  *  Gtorat-  242  Uyeds-chG,  ^  SagtiM  A  B 

Batiuma-ehB.  —  China  it  Japan  Trading  Co..  89o  Satnuna-chS.  —  . 

Ftaiar,  tM..  1(17  8BtaiiHia-chO.  —H.  Ahrtm  *   Co.,  2eWHtCTSt 

Imut  it  Co..  200  Fujii^uoaiihB.  —  L.  J.  Hialinii  <t  (7n.,  Lid.,  SB  . 
I  8t.~*'.  IF.  fforne.TOoBatsuiDB-chS.  — AfiMui  B-usmn  KalmMti  Ki 
^ITT  Nippon  OdSri.  —  Takata  <t.  Co.,  2  MotohajaB-ohB  Itshome,  «l~ 

<tiher  omneB  nmvuLt  the  Japnn  Directory. 
_      Ths  Post- nod  Tel«nph-Offic«  (mmp.p.  imlnraon  MBliiSt,(I 
^Qeu  the  ilivldiaB-Unel^twevD  l.ho  ono-t'       "^            .^  . .  i      .    ^       i 
r  Utb  dly,  The  FoPMgn  PoatOffice  is  ao 

A^muokP.O,  farthcmloDf  chuBCracC,  LntWre  inteodod  lor Europa  nr 

^-~  may  bfl  delayed  if  posted  in  the  latter  building. 
The  local  Oovenment  Offlea  ( KenchS)  'a 

___king  Miiumaohi-dOii  (PI.  H.  4). 
ThMteiB  and  EUen^nmenls;  —  The  Gaiitii  Thmla-  Ih  at  ZS7  Bl 

~    "■  '»  IheU.S.  NBval_Hpanita^  Ckmault  the  daily  news 


Canauk.  YOKOHAMA  1.  Route.    9 

priyileces  of  the  clubs  for  10  6&yB.  Should  they  bo  wish,  the  period  m^  be 
extended  for  3  mos.  upon  pajrment  of  a  monthly  subscription  of  ¥8.  Officers 
serving  on  ships  pay  only  ¥3.  Clubs  are  a  recoenised  necessity  in  the  social 
and  commercial  life  of  the  port,  and  are  of  comdderablo  advantage  to  visiting 
business  men.   Members  foregather  in  force  between  11-12  a.m. 

Golf-LinkB  at  the  grounds  of  the  Yokohama  Athl^xc  CZub,  Negishi  (PI.  B, 
2).  Outfits  can  be  had  of  Lane,  Crawford  A  Co. 

Horse-Races  take  place  at  stated  times  (consult  the  newspapers)  at  the 
coarse  of  the  Nippon  Race  Club  at  Negishi  (PI.  B,  1).  The  Spnng  Meeting 
(April-May;  admission  ¥2.50)  is  sometimes  attended  by  the  Emperor. 

Boat-Races  are  held  by  members  of  the  Yokohtatna  Yacht  Club  (T.  M. 
LaMn,  Commodore) :  the  Yokohama  Amateur  Rovring  Club,  and  the  Mo9- 
ipiuo  Yacht  Club.  Addresses  in  the  Directory. 

Baseball  is  popular,  and  interesting  games  are  often  played  between  inter- 
port  teams,  ami  with  seamen  from  visiting  warships.  Grounds  at  Hommoku 
(PLC,  3).    Sea-bathing  at  the  beach  near  by. 

Ambassadors  or  liinisters  and  Consuls  are  accredited  by  many  foreign 
governments  to  Japan;  the  embassies  and  legations  are  in  T5k^5;  consuls 
mxm  the  United  States,  Great  Britain,  Germany,  France,  Russia,  Austria- 
Hungary,  the  Argentine  Republic,  Belgium,  Brazil,  Mexico,  China,  Spain, 
Gweden,  Switserland,  Norway^  The  Netherlands,  Italy,  Denmark,  Greece, 
Ohile,  Peru,  and  Portugal  maintain  consulates  in  Yokohama.  As  the  ad- 
^faesses  of  certain  of  than  change  from  time  to  time,  the  traveler  is  referred 
"^  the  Japan  DirecUny,  obtainable  at  any  of  the  hotels  or  business  houses. 
PliTsiciaiis  and  Dentists.  American  (Dr.  C.  H.  H.  HaU),  Englisht(Z>r. 
■£dunn  Wheder),  BXid  German  (Dr.  R.  8cholti\  physicians,  and  a  number  of 
-American  dentists  (A.  O.  Smith)  practice  their  professions  in  the  port,  and 
^sustomarily  have  their  offices  m  the  Foreign  Settlement  (near  the  chief 
«30tels)  or  on  the  Blu£F. 

Newspapers  and  the  Japan  Directory  are  referred  to  at  p.  dx. 
^  Lodges:  —  Meetings  at  Masonic  Hall,  61  Main  St.,  upstairs.  The  follow- 
%jig  lodges  work  under  the  Southern  Jurisdiction  of  the  United  States:  — 
dxrand  (Consistory  ci  the  Empire  of  Japan;  Dai  Nippon  Chapter  of  Rose 
^n»x;  Dai  Nippon  Lodge  of  Perfecticm;  Star  in  the  East  No.  640  (Scottish 
■dite) ;  Yokohazna  Lodge  (English  Rite) ;  Otenta-sama  (E.  R.) ;  Yokohama 
Ohapter  (E.  R.);  Orient  Mark  Lodge  (E.  R.);  District  Grand  Lodge  of 
«^apan  (E.  R.).  The  Odd  Fellows  also  meet  at  the  above  hall. 

Hospitals.  U.S.  Naval  Hospital,  99  Bluff  (PI.  F,  4).  British  Royal  Naval 

hospital,  115  Bluff  (PI.  F,  4).  Yokohama  General  Hospital  (International), 

§2  Bluff  (PI.  E,  3).    Dr.  Rokkaku'a  Hospital,  1457  Nakamura-machi.  The 

>fokohama  Imperial  Hygienic  Laboratory  {Eiaei  Shikenjo)  is  at  73  Honcho- 

<X6n  Gochome. 

Churches.  Yokohama  Union  (American)  Church,  49  Bluff  (PI.  F,  3). 
Onuer  Cajmca  (Anglican),  234  Bluff  (PI.  E,  3).  MisHion  Catholique,^^ 
jBluff  (PI.  F,  2).  DuTJTBCHE  Haus,  25  Bluff  (PI.  F,  3).  —  The  hours  of  serv- 
ices, names  of  pastors,  and  other  information  are  published  in  the  news- 
papers or  posted  in  hotel  corridors.  —  The  American  Bible  Society  is  at  53 
Kfain  St.  For  the  addresses  of  the  different  Foreign  Missions,  Missionary 
S^choob,  and  Missionaries,  consult  the  section  of  the  Japan  Directory  de- 
Voted  to  Religious  Societies.  The  Salvation  Abmt  Headquarters  in 
Vo^ohama  are  at  88  Settlement.  The  Roman  Catholic  Convent  is  at  83 
Bluff. 

F(Nr  the  addresses  of  the  American  Asiatic  Association  of  Japan  (Z>.  H. 
Blake,  President) ;  Asiatic  Society  (^  Japan;  British  Association  of  Japan; 
L'AUiance  Frangaise;  Yokohama  Foreign  Board  of  Trade;  Yokohama  Chess 
Club;  Yokohama  Literary  and  Musical  Society;  Yokohama  Subscription 
library  (entrance  fee,  ¥3;  annual  subscription,  ¥12;  visitors,  ¥1.50  a 
month);  Yokohama  Social  Club;  Yokohama  King's  Daughters'  Circle; 
Ydkohajua  Cricket  and  Athletic  Chib;  the  Society  for  the  Prevention  of 
Gmelty  to  Animals  {Sigmund  Isaacs,  Chairman) ;  Yokohama  Charity  Organ- 
iiation;  Yokoluuna  Charity  Club;  Ladies'  Benevolent  Association;  Jewish 
Benevolent  Association  of  Yokohama;  the  Columbia  Society;  Royal  Society 
of  St.  Geroge;  St.  Andrew's  Society  of  Yokohama  and  T5ky5;  Ijadiea'  LaNm 
I^BDiiis  ana  (i!roquet  Club;  and  the  Cinderella  Dance  Association,  consvAXi 
the  Jntmn  Direotcxry. 


YOKOHAMA 


re  beinjE  eplargod  (a 


£K  beihg  coiutruoted.   PorGiDQerfl  will  do  wtW  Lo  dnok  the  wftter  ucb 
tluiF  know  tl  hsi  been  boiled.   (Cooip.  d,  linv.) 
Climate  la  lusntioDsil  at  p.  Iivi  The  city  ii  healtliy.    Although  ra- 

troubled  by  them.  StrisKent  b^tli  meomins  ure  cnlDnwl  by  the  HUtho  ~ 
b.  Situation,  History,  and  Chancter  of  Uu  Cit;. 
Yokohama  (pron.  yoh-koh-hah'-mah),  one  of  the  most  iio- 
portant,  picturesque,  and  coamopolitjui  of  the  Japanese  dliei 
(largest  in  Kanogawa  Prefecture,  and  'id  in  point  of  size  in  tin 
Empire),  atands  on  the  main  island  of  Hondo  IS  M.  8.  W.  of 
Tokyo  (of  which  it  is  the  principal  port  of  entry),  inMusa^' 
Province,  in  lat.  35°  26'  SS'-"  N.  (practically  that  of  MaJta  ai ' 
Santa  FiS),  and  long.  139°  38'  38''  E.  of  Greenwich.  It  o«i 
pies  a  commanding  position  on  a  V-shaped  plain  about  1)  U. 
wide  at  the  mouth  of  a  hill-flanked  valley  that  opens  into  To"- 
hama  Bay  (a  small  recess  on  the  W.  side  of  the  greater  Tti 
Bay),  and  extends  back  in  a.  W.  direction  toward  the  low  ae 
circle  of  hills  foraboutSM.;  gradually  narrowii^  to  i  M.  Tb 
hill  at  the  N.  W.  is  called  lae-yama,  from  lae  Province,' whin 
the  orienal  of  the  Damnga  Shrine  which  crowns  it  is  locaWdl 
andthatattbe  S.E.  (the  N.E.  corner  of  the  Bluff),  Camp  HiU, 
from  the  circumstance  that  a  camp  of  British  soldiers  ancienllf 
stood  just  above  the  site  of  the  present  Consiilal  de  Frarut: 
The  majestic  and  often  snow-capped  none  of  Fuji-aan  rises  in 

Eintedsplendorbehindit  and  imparts  to  it  a  beauty  whiRhnc 
idscape  view  could  exceL    The  inner  harbor  of  the  portk     ^ 
about  37  M.  from  Cape  Kiug,  the  nearest  point  of  land  on  tlw 
Paoific  Ocean,  and  as  the  bay  la  here  12  M.  wide,  the  citjis    | 
exposed  to  the  strong  N.E,  and  E.  winds,  and  to  the  typhooiiB 
wluch  lash  it  with  unrestrained  fury  during  the  semi-troincal 


According  to  the  census  of  1913  the  city  has  444,039  inliatw., 
of  whom  8205  are  foreigners;  4532  Chinese;  1575  British;  SW 
Americans;  462  Germans;  227  Frenchmen;  129  PortugueBS, 
and  the  remainder  distributed  among  15  nationalitiea.  It  de- 
rives its  name  from  i'oko,  aide;  and  Imma,  a  beach  —  the  latter 
standing  at  one  side  of  Kaoagawa,  the  first  treaty  port  opened 
lo  foreigners  and  where  they  were  allowed  to  dwell  and  trade. 


^^m    auaded  that  bis  memngfi  of  amity  Itom  P""^"™  "W?"*  JS'^ 
^^^^i^nsrf,  and  (bat  Ja^iaa  be  ojiened  W  llw  commeion  B*  «« iiooa.  \ 


yM*iind«,  and  ih 

■blob  still  eiL 
port)  Id  tiwgr 


Hiaiory.  YOKOHAMA  i;  Route.    11 

whidi  resulted  from  this  diplomatic  mission  was  the  first  ever  made  between 
a  ruler  oi  the  Japanese  Elmpire  and  a  Western  Power,  and  in  the  light  of  sub- 
sequent developments  is  of  peculiar  interest. 

THB  TBEATT  OF  KANAGAWA 

*  The  United  States  of  America  and  the  Eknpire  of  Japan,  desiring  to 
establish  firm,  lasting,  and  sincere  friendship  between  the  two  nations,  have 
resolved  to  fix  in  a  manner  dear  and  positive,  by  means  of  a  Treaty  or  Gen- 
eral Ck>nvention  of  Amity,  the  rules  which  ahaii  in  future  be  mutually  ob- 
served in  the  intercourse  of  their  respective  countries;  for  which  most  desir- 
able object,  the  President  of  the  United  States  has  conferred  full  powers  on 
his  conunissioner,  Matthew  Calbraith  Perry,  Special  Ambassador  of  the 
United  States  to  Japan;  and  the  August  Sovereign  of  Japan  has  given  similar 
powers  to  his  oommitwioners,  Hayashi,  Dai^gaku  no  kami,  Ido,  raince  of 
Tsuft-sima,  Isawa,  prince  of  Mimaaaki,  and  Udono,  member  of  the  Board  of 
Revenue.  And  tiie  said  commissioners,  after  having  exchanged  their  said  full 
powers  and  duly  considered  the  premises,  have  agreed  to  the  following  arti- 
des:  — 

'  I. — There  shall  be  a  perfect,  permanent  and  imiversal  peace,  and  a  sin- 
cere and  cordial  amity  between  the  United  States  of  America  on  the  one  part, 
and  tiie  E^mpire  of  Japan  on  the  other  part,  and  between  their  people  respec- 
tively, without  exception  of  persons  or  places. 

'  U.  —  The  p<^  of  Simoda  in  the  principality  of  Idsu,  and  the  port  of 

■fiakodade  in  the  principality  of  Matsmai,  are  granted  by  the  Japanese  as 

txvts  for  the  reception  of  American  ships,  where  they  can  be  supi)Ued  with 

'Wood,  water,  provisions  and  coal,  and  other  articles  their  necessities  may 

xiequire,  as  far  as  the  Japanese  have  them.  The  time  for  opening  the  first  named 

23ortis  immediately  on  signing  this  Treaty;  the  last  named  port  is  to  be 

«^)ened  immediatdy  after  the  same  day  in  the  ensuing  Japanese  year.    Note. 

—  A  tariff  of  prices  shall  be  given  by  the  Japanese  officers  of  the  things  which 

'^ey  can  funuah,  payment  for  which  shall  be  made  in  gold  and  silver  coin. 

'  nj. — Whenever  ships  of  the  United  States  are  thrown  or  wrecked  on  the 

v^oasts  of  J^an,  the  Japanese  vessels  will  assist  them  and  carry  their  crews  to 

Simoda  or  Hakodade,  and  hand  them  over  to  their  countrymen  appointed  to 

^^eceive  them;  whatever  articles  the  shipwrecked  men  may  have  preserved 

^h^  likewise  be  restored,  and  the  expenses  incurred  in  the  rescue  and  sup- 

Xx)Tt  of  Americans  and  Japanese  who  may  thus  be  thrown  upon  the  shores  of 

^ther  nation  are  not  to  be  refunded. 

•IV.  —  Those  shipwrecked  persons  and  other  citizens  of  the  United  States 
^hall  be  free  as  in  other  countries,  and  not  subjected  to  confinement,  but 
^hall  be  amenable  to  just  laws. 

'  V.  —  Shipwrecked  men,  and  other  citizens  of  the  United  States,  temjM)- 
x*arily  living  at  Simoda  and  Hakodade  shall  not  be  subject  to  such  restric- 
tions and  confinement  as  the  Dutch  and  Chinese  are  at  Nagasaki;  but  shall 
•oe  free  at  Simoda  to  go  where  they  please  within  the  limits  of  seven  Japanese 
*S  or  miles  from  a  small  island  in  the  harbor  of  Simoda,  marked  in  the  ac- 
companying chart  hereto  appended;  and  shall  be  free  in  like  manner  to  go 
^here  they  please  at  Hakodade,  within  limits  to  be  defined  after  the  visit  of 
't.he  United  States  squadron  to  that  place. 

*  VL  —  If  there  be  any  other  sort  of  goods  wanted,  or  anjr  business  which 
■^hall  reguire  to  be  arranged,  there  shall  be  careful  deliberation  between  the 
4>arties  m  order  to  settle  such  matters. 

*  VII.  —  It  is  agreed  that  ships  of  the  United  States  resorting  to  the  ports 
'Open  to  them  shall  be  permitted  to  exchange  gold  and  silver  coin  and  articles 
*^  goods  for  other  articles  of  goods,  under  such  regulations  as  shall  be  tem- 
porarily establii^ed  by  the  Japanese  government  for  that  purpose.    It  ia 
stipulated,  however,  that  the  ships  of  the  United  States  shall  be  permitted  to 
•carry  away  whatever  articles  they  may  be  unwilling  to  exchange. 

*  VlII.  —  Wood,  water,  provisions,  coal,  and  goods  required  shall  only  be 
procured  through  the  agency  of  Japanese  officers  appointed  for  that  purpose, 
and  in  no  other  manner. 

•IX.  —  It  is  agreed  that  if  at  any  future  day  the  government  of  Japan 
ahsU  grant  to  any  other  nation,  or  nations,  privileges  and  advantages  'w\AcVi 
•are  not  herein  granted  to  the  United  States  and  the  citizens  thereoi,  VSciaX 


12    Route  L  YOKOHAMA  HiaUxrp. 

these  same  privileges  and  advantages  shall  be  gmited  Hkewise  to  the  United 
States  and  to  the  dtiaens  thereof  without  any  OMURiltation  or  delay. 

*  X.  —  Ships  of  the  United  States  shall  be  permitted  to  resort  to  no  othor 
ports  in  Japan  but  Simoda  and  Hakodade»  iinleas  in  distress,  or  forced  by 
stress  of  weather. 

*  XI.  —  There  shall  be  appointed  by  the  government  of  the  United  States 
consuls  or  agents  to  reside  in  Simoda  at  any  time  after  the  exiiiration  of  eigh- 
teen months  from  the  date  of  the  signing  of  tiiis  treaty,  provided  that  eitoa 
of  the  two  governments  deem  such  arrangement  necessary. 

*  Xn.  —  The  present  convention,  having  been  concluded  and  duly  signed, 
shall  be  obligatory  and  faithfully  observedf  l^  Hie  United  States  of  America 
and  Japan,  and  by  the  citizens  and  subjects  of  each  respective  power:  and  it 
is  to  be  ratified  and  approved  by  the  President  of  the  United  States,  fay  and 
with  the  advice  and  consent  of  the  Senate  thereof,  and  by  the  august  Sover- 
dgn  of  Japan,  and  the  ratification  shall  be  exchanged  within  eighteen  months 
from  Hie  date  of  the  signature  thereof,  or  sooner  if  possible. 

'  In  faith  whereof,  we,  the  respective  pleni^tentiaries  of  the  United  States 
of  America  and  the  Empire  of  Japan,  aforesaid,  have  signed  and  sealed  these 
presents. 

'  Done  at  Kanagawa,' (Friday)  March  Slst,  1854,  and  Ka3rei,  7th  year,  3d 
month,  and  3d  day.'  (A  Journal  of  the  Perry  Expedition  to  Japan,  1853--64, 
by  8.  WeUa  Wittiama.) 

Prior  to  the  signing  of  the  treaty,  an  interchange  of  presents 
was  effected;  those  sent  by  the  Government  of  the  United 
States  to  Japan  were  unloaded  on  the  Kanagawa  beach,  and 
while  they  looked  strange  enough  to  the  people  of  that  period, 
the  list  of  them  now  looks  stranger  still/  considering  the  mar- 
velous progress  the  Japanese  have  made  in  the  mean  time. 
Says  Perry  s  Narrative  (vol.  i,  p.  357): — 

*  By  eleven  o'clock  this  morning  (March  13, 1854)  all  the  presents  destined 
for  the  Emperor  and  his  councilors  and  the  five  conunissioners  were 
landed  on  the  beach  ready  to  take  ashore.  Most  of  the  presents  were  landed 
without  injury  and  placed  imder  cover,  the  agricultural  implements  forming 
the  largest  bulk.  The  presents  for  the  Emperor  were  as  follows:  — 

*  One  i  size  miniature  steam  engine,  track,  tender  and  car.  —  Telegiaidi, 
with  3  miles  of  wire  and  gutta  percha  wire.  1  Francis'  copper  life^Boat. 
1  Surf  boat  of  copi)er.  Collection  of  agricultural  implements.  Audubon's 
Birds  in  9  vols.  Natural  History  of  the  State  of  New  York,  16  vols.  Annals 
of  Congress,  4  vols.  Laws  and  Documents  of  the  State  of  New  York.  Jour- 
nals of  the  Senate  and  Assembly  of  N.Y.  Lighthouse  Reports,  2  vols.  Ban- 
croft's History  of  the  U.S.A.,  4  vols.  Farmer's  Guide,  2  vols.  1  series  of 
U.S.  Coast  Survey  Charts.  Morris*  Engineering.  Silver-topped  dressing- 
case.  8  yards  scarlet  broadcloth,  and  piece  scarlet  velvet.  Series  of  U.S. 
standard  yard,  gallon,  bushel,  balances  and  weights.  Quarter  cask  of 
Madeira.  Barrel  of  Whiskey.  Box  of  Champagne  and  Cherry  Cordial  and 
Maraschino.  Three  10-cent  boxes  of  fine  tea,  (sic).  Maps  of  several  states 
and  4  lithographs.  Telescope  and  stand  in  box.  Sheet-iron  stove.  A  6-doi. 
assortment  of  fine  i>erfumery.  5  Hall's  rifles,  3  Maynard's  muskets,  12  Cav- 
alry swords,  6  Artillery  swords,  1  carbine  and  20  Army  pistols  m  a  box. 
Catalogue  of  N.Y.  State  Library  and  post-offices.  Two  mail  bags  with  pad- 
locks. 

*  Gifts  for  the  Empress:  —  Flowered  silk  embroidered  dress.  Toilet  dres- 
sing-box gild^.   6  dos.  assorted  perfumeiy. 

'  For  Commissioner  Hayashi  ;  —  Audubon's  Quadrupeds.  4  yards  acai^ 
let  broadcloth;  a  clock;  a  stove;  a  rifle;  a  set  of  China  ware  (tea  set) ;  a  revol- 
ver and  box  of  powder;  2  doz.  ass't  perfumery;  20  gallons  of  whiskey;  a 
sword;  3  boxes  10c.  fine  tea;  a  box  of  champagne,  and  1  box  of  finer  tea. 

'  For  Abe,  prince  of  Ishi:  —  one  copper  life-boat;  Kendall's  War  in  Mezieo 
and  Riplev's  History  of  that  war;  a  box  of  champagne;  3  boxes  of  fine  tea:  20 
gals,  whiskey;  a  clock;  a  stove;  a  rifle;  a  sword;  a  revolver  and  powder;  2  aos. 
assorted  perfumery,  and  4  y^xls  of  scarlet  cloth. 

'For  Makinot  prince  of  Bizen:  —  Lossing's  Field  Book  of  Revolution;  10 


Hitiory>  YOKOHAMA  1.  iSoufe.    13 

gala,  whialwsr;  Cabinet  of  Natural  History  of  New  Yoric;  1  Hlhograph;  a 
dock;  a  reyolver;  a  sword;  a  rifle,  and  1  dos.  perfumery. 

*  For  Mataudaivrot  prinoe  of  Idsumi:  —  Owen's  Arduteoture;  1  dos.  per- 
fumery; view  xA  Washington  and  plan  of  the  dty;  1  clb<^;  arifle;  a  sword; 
a  revolyer,  and  10  gals,  whiskey. 

*  For  Mataudaiira,  prince  of  Iga:  —  Documentary  History  of  New  Yoik; 
a  lithograph  of  a  steamer;  12  ass't  perfumery;  a  dock;  a  swcml;  a  rifle;  a 
zevdTer,  and  10  gals,  whiskey. 

*  For  Ktushei^  pnnoe  of  Yamato:  —  Downing's  Countnr  Houses;  view  of 
San  Francisco;  9  bottles  of  perfumery;  a  revolver;  a  dock;  a  rifle;  a  sword, 
and  10  gals,  whiskey. 

*  For  Naiito,  prince  of  £a:  —  Owen's  Geology  of  Minnesota  and  maps; 
lithograph  of  Georgetown,  D.C.;  a  dock;  a  rifle;  a  sword;  a  revolver;  9  ass't 
perfumery,  and  10  gals,  of  whiskey. 

*  For  IdOf  prince  ol  Tsushima:  —  Appleton's  Dictionary,  2  vols.;  9  ass't 
perfumery;  a  lithograph  of  New  Orleans;  a  box  of  tea;  a  sword;  a  rifle;  a 
revolver;  a  dock;  a  box  of  cheny  cordial,  and  5  gals,  of  whiskey. 

*  For  Izawa^  prince  of  Mimasaki :  —  Model  of  a  life-boat,  view  of  steamer 
"  Atlantic  '*;  a  rifle;  a  dock;  a  sword;  a  revolver;  9  ass't  perfumery;  1  box  of 
dierry  cordial;  a  sznall  box  of  tea;  a  brass  howitser  and  two  carriages,  and  5 
^Ub.  of  whiskey. 

'  For  UdanOf  4th  Commissioner:  —  A  list  of  post-of&ces;  a  box  of  tea;  a 
Uthograph  of  an  elephant;  9  bottles  of  perfumery;  rifle;  revolver;  a  clock; 
and  5  gals  of  whiskey. 

*  For  McUntaaki  Miehitard^  5th  Commisraoner  (who  was  suspected  of  being 
a  government  spy):  —  A  lithograph  of  a  steamer;  a  revolver;  6  bottles  of 
perfumery;  one  clock;  a  sword;  a  box  of  tea;  one  of  cherryleordial,  and  5  gals. 
whiBkey. 

*  The  return  gifts  from  the  Emperor  and  the  princes  included  beautiful 
specimens  of  g(»d  lacquer;  bronse;  silver;  porcelain;  many  rolls  of  fine  silk 
brocade  uid  pongee;  many  lacquered  articles  of  rare  merit;  a  number  of  rolls 
of  fine  crape;  figurea  matting;  Jars  of  soy;  coral  and  silver  ornaments;  flow^ 
eired  pai)ers;  superb  spedm^is  (4  to  the  President  of  the  United  States  from 
the  Eimperor)  of  Japanese  spemiels,  and  manyminor  articles.  There  were  in  all 
132  pieces  of  silk,  besides  which  the  Emperor  sent  to  the  squadron  300 
chickens  and  200  bundles  of  rice,  each  bundle  containing  five  pecks. 

'  The  presents  having  been  formally  delivered,  the  various  American 
oflScers  and  workmen  sdected  for  the  purpose  were  diligently  engaged  daily 
in  unpacking  and  arranging  them  for  exhibition.  The  Japanese  authorities 
offered  every  fadlity;  their  laborers  constructed  sheds  for  sheltering  the 
articles  from  the  indemency  of  the  weather;  a  piece  of  level  groundf  was 
assigned  for  laying  down  the  circular  track  for  the  little  locomotive,  and  posts 
were  brought  and  erected  for  the  extension  of  the  telegraph  wires,  the  Japa- 
nese taking  a  very  ready  part  in  all  the  labors,  and  watching  the  result  of 
arrangingand  putting  together  the  machinery  with  an  innocent  and  childlike 
delight.  The  telegraph  apparatus,  under  the  direction  of  Messrs.  Draper  and 
WiutamSf  was  soon  in  working  order,  the  wires  extending  nearly  a  mile,  in  a 
direct  line,  one  end  bdng  at  the  treaty  house,  and  another  at  a  building 
expressly  allotted  for  the  purpose.  When  communication  was  opened  up 
between  the  operators  at  either  extremity,  the  Japanese  watched  with  intense 
curiosity  the  modus  operandi,  and  were  greatly  amazed  to  find  that  in  an 
instant  of  time,  messages  were  conveyed  in  the  Englinh,  Dutch,  and  Japanese 
languages  from  building  to  building.  Day  after  day  the  dignitaries  and 
many  of  the  people  would  gather,  and,  eagerly  beseeching  the  operators  to 
work  the  telegraph,  watch  with  unabated  interest  the  scnmng  and  recdving 
ci  messages. 

*  Nor  did  the  railway,  with  its  Lilliputian  locomotive,  car,  and  tender, 
exdte  less  interest.  All  the  parts  of  the  mechanism  were  perfect,  and^  the  car 
was  a  most  tasteful  specimen  of  workmanship,  but  so  small  that  it  could 
liaidly  carry  a  child  of  six  years  of  age.  The  Japanese,  however,  were  not  to 
be  cheated  out  of  a  ride,  and,  as  they  were  unable  to  reduce  themselves  to 
the  capacity  of  the  inside  of  the  carriage,  they  betook  themselves  to  the  roof. 
It  was  a  spectacle  not  a  little  ludicrous  to  behold  a  dignified  mandarin  whirl- 
vig  around  the  circular  road  at  the  rate  of  twenty  miles  an  hour,  vntYi  YvVa 
Ipspa  robtse  flying  in  the  wind.  As  he  clung  with  a  desDerate  hold  to  tVie  edc;»Ci 


14    Bmde  1.  YOKOHAMA  Dexrifim.  ;, 

of  the  roof.'grizming  with  intense  interest,  and  his  huddled-tip  bcxly  shook 

convulsively  with  a  kind  oi  laughing  timidity,  while  the  car  spfun  rapidly  '" 

around  the  drcle,  you  might  have  supposed  that  the  movement,  somehow  or  || 

.  other,  was  dependent  rather  upon  the  enormous  exertions  of  the  uoowqr  ^ 

mandarin  than  upon  the  power  of  the  little  locomotive,  which  was  so  eady  7 

performing  its  work/  ^ 

In  July,  1850,  Yokohama  was  officiallsf  opened  as  a  Treaty  Port  and  was  ^ 

set  aside  for  foreigners  as  a  place  of  residence;  its  devel(H>ment  thereafter  .^ 
was  rapid.  The  first  business  nouse  is  said  to  have  been  opened  (in  1859)  bv 

a  British  subject,  Mr.  William  Kestoick  (d.  1912),  to  whom  also  is  acoored-  ^ 

ited  the  first  organized  commerce  between  Japan  and  England.    The  dd  )] 

counting-house  stood  on  the  spot  now  occupied  by  Jardine,  Matheaon  dt  Co.  ^ 

(No.  1).   The  first  newspaper  was  established  in  1861,  and  the  Post-Offiee  ? 

was  opened  in  1871.   Earthquakes,  fires,  and  epidemics  have  scourged  the  <il 

port;  the  great  fire  of  1866  almost  destroyed  the  Foreign  Settlement,  and  't 

between  the  1st  and  the  26th  of  May,  1870,  Yokohama  (and  TOkyd)  ezperi-  2 

enced  131  earthquake  shocks,  24  of  which  occurred  on  one  day  (the  13th).  ^ 

The  cholera  epidemic  of  1886  killed  2199  persons.  In  1899,  foreign  treaties  h. 

were  revised,  extra-territoriality  clauses  were  expunged,  the  whil(nn  FoxeAga  ];. 

Settlement  reverted  to  the  Japanese  Government,  and  all  the  foreigners  ^ 

therein,  or  to  come,  passed  under  the  jurisdiction  of  the  native  courts  (in-  T. 

stead  of  being  tried,  in  cases  of  infraction  of  laws,  by  their  respective  ccNiauls).  I 

^ith  their  subjection  to  the  judiciary  of  the  Empire,  foreigners  were  granted  ); 

many  more  privileges;  passports  with  all  their  troublesome  preliminarief  ^ 

were  abolished,  and  the  entire  country  was  thrown  open  to  foreign  tiavel.  ' 

From  the  status  of  a  miserable  fishing  hamlet  in  1854,  Yokohama  has  grown  % 

into  a  rich  and  prosperous  seaport  touched  at  by  ships  from  all  parts  of  the  y 

world.  The  proud,  fieree-visaged,  sworded  and  bepistoled  daimyoa  who  once  li 

walked  the  streets  have  vanished  into  an  echoless  past,  and  strangers  are  *- 

welcomed  now  as  friends  rather  than  as  Occidental  barbariai)s.  —  Foreigners  ^i 

still  refer  to  the  quarter  in  which  they  do  business  as  '  The  Settlement,'  ttau  V 

to  differentiate  it  from  the  Japanese  City.  The  names  '  Treaty  Point,'  '  Mis-  ^ 
sissippi  Bay '  (Perry's  flagship  was  the  Missiasippi)^  etc.,  are  relics  of  the 

first  American  invasion.  The  opening  of  the  port  to  trade  is  annually  oele-  4 

brated  bsr  Japanese  and  foreigners  alike ;  the  streets  are  decorated  with  flags  ^ 

and  bunting;  the  various  nationalities  fraternize,  and  unruflBled  amity  and  . 
good  will  mark  the  joyous  occasion. 

Few  cities  of  Japan  are  more  attractive  than  Yokohama,  . 
and  the  excellent  hotels  make  it  a  favorite  with  travelers.  !| 
Strangers  often  make  the  mistake  of  regarding  it  merely  as  a  \ 
landing-place  and  as  a  stepping-stone  to  other  places.  Experi-  J 
enced  travelers  make  of  it  and  of  Tokyo  their  headquarters  for 
N.  Japan,  just  as  Kobe  and  Kyoto  serve  the  same  purpose  for 
the  W.  re^on.  Weeks  can  be  spent  in  Yokohama  to  advan- 
tage, for  the  shops  are  legion  and  of  a  fascination  almost  un- 
canny, while  the  hinterland  is  one  of  remarkable  beauty. 
Japanese  charm  and  Western  comfort  are  strongjy  blended, 
and  to  enjoy  them,  travelers  foregather  from  almost  every 
quarter  of  the  globe.  The  port  is  a  sort  of  meeting-ground  for 
tne  vast  human  tides  which  flow  steadily  in  opposing  directions 
round  the  world,  as  well  as  for  Japanese  from  the  remotest  p&* 
gions  of  the  Empire.  Hither  they  come  bringing  their  local 
customs  along  with  their  fascinating  wares,  and  no  city  has  a 
greater  number  of  shops  and  bazaars  filled  with  the  things 
that  foreigners  want.  The  thronged  streets  of  the  native  quar- 
ter fairly  blaze  with  color,  and  radiate  an  infectious  joyousneas 
singularly  pleasing  to  Occidentals. 

A  multiplicity  of  canals  (kori),  crossed  by  40  or  mace  pkh 


^ 


J 


ut  Isq.  M.)iskiiownto  the  Japaneeeasfuiannat  ('within 
>arrierB'),  because  in  former  times  a  guarded  palieade  was 

p  at  eveiyapproach  to  the isclosurc,  wherein  tbe  foroigners 
t  and  without  which  thev  were  permitted  to  wander 
lin  a  vtry  limited  area)  only  when  provided  with  a  paaa- 
,    'Outside  the  Barrier   (iuiawai)  tne  land  ia  subdivided 

Umecki,  or  'reclaimed  ground'  (much  of  the  original  site 
okohama  having  been  a  swamp),  and  yamafe  ('hill  dis- 
'),  or  Yama  (mt.),  a  flection  better  known  eis  the  Blu3, 
'e  many  of  the  foreigners  reside.  The  one-time  restrictecl 
ign  Settlement  is  called  officially  YaTnaskila^O,  or 
ler-Hiil  district,' 

le  chief  streets  of  the  quarter  bear  two  names,  one  uaed  by 
apanese,  the  other  by  foreigners.  Honcho-ddriiBMain  St.; 
onaehirddTi  (Water  St.)  formerly  faced  the  sea,  as  does 

KaiQanrdori,  or  the  Bund  (Hindustani,  baTui:  a  'dike, 
sway,  embankment').  This  attractive  and  well-swept 
svara  {about  J  M.  long  throuRh  the  Settlement)  flanks 
lay  from  Ya^o  Creek  at  the  E.  to  the  Customs  Pier  at  the 
'.,  and  is  strikingly  picturesque  at  twilight  of  a  summer 
irhen  the  East  Indians,  Chinese,  and  other  brilliantly  clad 
itals,  who  form  mosaics  in  the  cosmopolitan  population, 
[  out  to  enjoy  the  seascape,  and  the  cool  breezes  which 

in  from  the  Pacific.  A  number  of  S.S.  offices  flank  the 
1.  and  are  distinguishable  by  the  bouse-ftags  which  fty 
e  them.  Directly  back  of  the  Settlement,  within  the  con- 
ing angles  of  Hommwa  Road,  Kaga  Gka,  and  the  creek,  ia 
!3uneee  Qiuirter,  a  meek,  denless  copy  of  San  Francisco's 
lilion  district,  whence  opium  and  fan-tan  are  debarred, 


16    Route  1.  Y0K6hAMA  DemsrivM. 

sets,  and  with  belladonna  eyes  whose  lids  nictitate  instinclively 
at  passing  masculinity.  The  somber  buildings  on  the  right  are 
goaowns  where  rich  silk  £uid  other  opulent  merchandise  is 
stored,  and  tea  is  fired  (p.  cvii). 

The  narrow  Nippoiv-Oddri  which  runs  across  the  lower  edge 
of  the  Settlement,  from  the  Custom-House  to  the  Public  Giur- 
den,  forms  a  sharp  dividing-line  between  the  foreign  and  native 
quarters.  The  most  popular  and  picturesque  streets  of  the 
latter  are  Bentenrdori  CSt.  of  the  Goddess  Benten*);^  Honcfuh- 
dori,  and  the  narrow  but  often  brilliant  lanes  which  radiate 
from  them.  To  the  S.W.  of  this  section  is  Transpontinb 
Yokohama,  a  densely  populated,  rapidly  growing  native  quar- 
ter, linked  to  the  center  by  six  bridges.  The  heaviest  inter- 
course between  the  two  regions  passes  over  the  new  KanenO' 
hashi  (opened  in  1911;  cost,  ¥172,000),  beyond  which  is  the 
well-known  Isezakicko  (Theater  St.),  a  kaleidoscopic  thoroud^ 
fare  attractive  to  tourists  because  of  the  seething  life  and  corar 
of  the  myriad  shops  and  harlequin  theaters.  The  teanir-cais, 
which  cross  the  bridge  here,  half  circle  the  city  toward  the  S.E., 
and  following  the  canal,  go  to  Yawatorbaahi. 

The  port  is  in  a  transitional  stage,  and  there  are  but  few 
architectural  monuments  of  note.  What  it  lacks  in  this  respect, 
it  makes  up  in  views  of  land  and  sea,  for  the  panoramas  obtain- 
able from  certain  points  on  the  Bluff  rank  with  the  finest  in 
Japan.  The  most  imposing  edifices,  those  which  impart  an  air 
of  solid  prosperity,  are  the  Yokohama  Specie  Bank,  the  Cha]> 
tered  Bank,  the  Mitsu  Bishi  Kaisha,  and  certain  of  the  munici- 
pal buildings.  The  maritime  expression  of  Yokohama  is  very 
pleasing  to  strangers.  The  coming  and  going  of  the  wonderfully 
picturesque  fishing-fleet,  the  private  yachts  and  the  big  ocean 
liners;  the  thunderous  salutes  of  incoming  or  outgoing  war- 
ships; the  music  from  ships'  bands  and  bugles;  the  skirl  of  bag- 
pipes from  British  Dreadnaughts,  or  the  battering  of  paint- 
chipping  hammers  on  their  iron  sides;  the  musical  bells  that 
mark  time  through  the  silent  watches  of  the  night;  the  whir- 
ring of  winches  on  cargo  boats,  —  are  all  familiar  sounds,  for  the 
wide  balconies  of  some  of  the  hotels  are  less  than  50  ft.  from  the 
water,  and  the  sea  is  as  much  to  Yokohama  as  the  land.  Many 
of  the  foreign  residents  take  their  pleasure  on  the  water,  and  a 
small  squadron  of  dainty  launches  and  house-boats  usually 
ride  at  anchor  just  off  the  Bund.  Here  hydro-aeroplanes  are 
'demonstrated,'  and  many  boat-races  are  pulled  off.  Here, 
toOj  when  the  spring  tides  recede,  the  traveler  may  witness  the 
cunous  spectacle  called  Shiohi-gari,  or  *  picking  shell-fii^  at 
ebb-tide.  Hundreds  of  men,  women,  and  children,  bare-legoed 
with  drowsy  babies  pick-a-back,  dig  vigorously  for  the  m<SteBt 
and  retiring  clams  that  attain  a  fat  maturity  in  the  mud  oi  the 
ocean  floor.  When  the  season  passes,  the  diggers  retreat  to  the 
creek  and  there,  on  any  warm  day  when  the  tide  is  numiiig  out* 


Deteriptwe.  YOKOHAMA  1.  Rouie.    17 

they  mav  be  seen  wust-deep  in  the  stream,  clawing  the  sandy 
bottom  tar  the  puny  survivors  that  have  escaped  them  outside. 
The  natives  are  inordinately  fond  of  this  New  England  spec- 
ialty, but  travelers  will  note  that  several  sewers  empty  into  the 
cre&  —  which  is  a  sort  of  general  dump  for  unclean  refuse. 
When  a  strong  typhoon  thrashes  the  port,  huge  waves  dash 
over  the  sea-wall  and  beside  drenching  the  Bund  and  the 
houses  facing  it,  strew  it  with  seaweed  and  jelly-fish.  The  shal- 
low water  near  the  shore  is  a  favorite  resort  with  women  har- 
boring suicidal  intentions;  stones  piled  into  the  sleeves  of  their 
kimonos  usually  help  them  to  oblivion. 

Strangers  may  wish  to  remember  that  in  Yokohama  (and 
other  Japanese  ports)  houses  in  the  foreign  quarter  (excepting 
hotels)  are  spoken  of  by  number  rather  than  by  the  names  of 
occupants.  Numbers  do  not  necessarily  follow  in  any  logical 
order  of  succession,  and  there  are  often  several  houses  with  the 
same  number.  Number  one  was  the  nucleus  around  which  the 
foreign  settlement  arose,  and  succeeding  numbers  ran  first 
along  the  sea  front  to  the  Grand  Hotel,  and  back  along  Water 
St.;  then  up  one  side  of  Main  St.  and  down  the  other.  It  there- 
fore happens  that  a  low  number  may  face  a  much  higher  one 
on  the  same  street.  The  enumeration  shown  on  the  accom- 
panying plan  will  be  found  useful,  but  will  be  subject  to  slight 
modification.  The  few  representative  numbers  will  give  the 
traveler  an  idea  of  the  location  of  the  remainder.  Complete 
maps  showing  the  numbers  of  all  the  houses  in  Yokohama  are 
on  sale  at  the  oflSce  of  the  Japan  Gazette.  —  Of  the  79,000 
houses  in  the  port,  520  are  the  business  establishments  of  for- 
eigners. Many  millions  of  dollars  of  foreign  capital  isire  invested, 
and  the  trade  of  the  port  has  risen  from  185  million  yen  in  1899 
to  upward  of  404  millions  in  1914.  Most  of  the  imports  of  176 
millions,  and  exports  of  228  millions  for  and  from  Tokyo  and 
the  N.,  pass  through  Yokohama,  which  is  touched  at  oy  up- 
ward of  3500  ships  each  year. 

The  Approach  to  the  far-famed  Yedo  Bay  and  to  Yoko- 
hama city  is  imusually  attractive.  As  ships  from  Canada  and 
the  United  States  steam  in  from  the  broaa  Pacific  and  prepare 
to  round  the  outermost  point  of  the  Awa  Peninsula  (right),  the 
island  of  Oshima  with  its  active  Mikara  volcano  is  visible  (left) 
on  a  clear  day.  At  night  a  deep,  fiery  glow  is  often  reflected  in 
the  sky.  Ships  bearing  in  from  the  S. W.  pass  between  Oshima 
(right)  and  the  Izu  Peninsula.  Sagami  Bay  is  now  at  the  left, 
and  at  Misaki,  near  the  S.  tip  of  the  Sagami  Peninsula,  is  the 
Marine  Biological  Laboratory  mentioned  at  p.  40.  The  light- 
house on  Tsurugigasaki  marks  the  W.  point  of  the  entrance  to 
Uraga  Channel;  the  tower  is  25  ft.  high,  and  the  light  (flashing 
white  every  10  sec.  with  a  red  sector,  visible  16  M.  at  sea)  is 
110  ft.  above  high  water.  Ships  here  enter  the  narrow  mouWi 
of  the  pear-shaped  hay  (28  M,  long  by  20  M.  wide)  and  &\asaxx 


18    Route  1.  YOKOHAMA  TheBhiff. 

slowly  toward  Uraga,  celebrated  for  all  time,  for  the  beach 
( Kurikama)  where  Commodore  Perry  landed  in  1833.  A  fine 
monument  marks  the  spot  (left)  and  is  easily  discernible  with 
the  aid  of  a  good  glass.  Travelers  are  cautioned  against  photo- 
graphing (with  or  without  telephotographic  lenses)  any  of  Uie 
objects  on  shore,  as  the  Naval  Dockyard  at  Yokosuka  (just 
beyond)  lies  within  the  prohibited  zone.  The  lighthouse  (sq. 
white  toWer  40  ft.  high,  178  ft.  above  high  water)  now  seen  at 
the  left  stands  on  the  wooded  slope  of  the  Kwannon-zaki  head- 
land, at  the  N.  approach  to  Uraga  Harbor;  the  light  is  white 
and  fixed,  with  a  red  sector,  visible  17  M.  at  sea.  The  bijg  dry- 
docks  and  the  busy  town  of  Yokosuka  now  come  into  view  at 
the  left;  most  travelers  remember  the  spot  for  its  association 
with  Will  Adams f  the  English  pilot,  whose  grave  (p.  38) 
stands  on  a  high  hill  behind  the  town.  Shoals  and  islets  mark 
the  coast  hereabout.  The  Bold  Bluffs  of  Mississippi  Bay  and 
Treaty  Point  soon  come  into  view  at  the  left;  at  the  N.  ex- 
treme of  the  long  line  of  conspicuous  yellow  cliffs  is  Mandarin 
Bluff,  and  peeping  from  amidst  the  lovely  green  foliage  and 
trees  which  crown  it  are  the  tiled  roofs  of  the  homes  of  many  of 
Yokohama's  foreign  merchants.  If  the  fishing-fieet,  of  quamt, 
mediseval  looking  wood  craft  and  picturesque  sails,  is  on  the 
move  across  the  bay,  the  incoming  traveler  will  not  toTwet  the 
sight.  If  the  day  be  clear  a  glorious  view  may  be  had  of  Ftm- 
san  (p.  45),  as  it  rises  cold  and  serene  from  the  S.  point  of  the 
fine  Hakone  Range.  Stretching  away  toward  the  right  (N.E.) 
rise  the  outposts  of  the  mts.  of  Shimosa  and  Awa.  A  succes- 
sion of  blue  peaks  (snow-streaked  in  winter)  trail  away  N.  until 
they  blend  with  the  haze  or  lose  themselves  beyond  the  horizon. 
On  sunny  days  the  harbor  is  usually  alive  with  big  liners, 
merchantmen,  coasters,  luggers,  sampans,  scows,  fishing- 
smacks,  and  junks.  Of  special  interest  to  the  stranger  are  the 
occasional  boats  in  which  men  may  be  seen  using  boxes  with 
glass  bottoms  through  which  they  search  the  bottom  of  the 
bay  for  possible  finds.  Incoming  ships  describe  a  wide  curve 
as  they  approach  Yokohama,  steaming  up  from  Mississippi 
Bay  along  the  Bluff  before  they  pass  the  narrow  entrance  t& 
the  harbor.  This  latter  is  inadequate  to  the  growing  needs  of 
the  city  and  vast  improvements  are  imder  way.  The  anchorage 
(1237  acres)  is  inclosed  by  two  breakwaters  (aggregate  length 
12,000  ft.)  which  converge  at  the  (700  ft.  wide)  entrance.  The 
E.  breakwater  (5380  ft.)  is  of  peculiar  interest  to  Americans, 
since  it  was  built  with  the  indemnity  exacted  from  Japan  in 
payment  for  the  Shimonoseki  bombardment  and  returned 
voluntarily  by  the  Government  of  the  United  States. 

The  Bluff  {Yamaie'Chd)  a  wide  and  elevated  area  (150  ft. 

above  the  sea)  at  the  S.  side  of  the  Settlement,  crowned  by 

many  pretty  dwellings  of  the  foreign  residents,  and  croaBed 

and  recrosaed  by  many  charming,  fiower-decked  lanes,  ia  one 


100  Siepa  Tea-Houae.     YOKOHAMA  1.  BouU.    19 

of  the  handsomest  leeidential  sites  in  the  Far  East.  A  number 
of  steepish,  winding  roadways  lead  to  it  from  the  creek  which 
delinms  the  S.W.  Dorder  of  the  commercial  town,  the  most 
popular  being  the  Yato  Zaka^  or  '  Camp  Hill '  Road,  which 
passes  along  me  rear  of  the  Grand  Hotel  and  flanks  the  fVench 
consulate.  The  first  Americans  to  set  foot  on  the  Bluff  were 
Mr,  S.  WeUs  Williams  (an  enthusiastic  botanist  and  the  inter- 
preter for  the  Perry  Expedition  to  Japan)  and  Dr.  Morrow  of 
the  S.S.  StisquehanrMf  of  Perry's  squadron.  Slipping  away 
from  their  shipmates  and  eluding  the  Japanese  authorities,  they 
climbed  the  hill  on  March  14,  1854,  and  in  their  ramble  across 
it  discovered  two  new  ferns  and  a  hitherto  unknown  variety  of 
clematis,  later  named  (by  Asa  Gray)  ^  Clematis  WiUiamsii,* 
The  N.E.  edge  of  the  Bluff  falls  down  steeply  to  the  sea,  and 
from  the  shaded  road  which  crosses  it,  one  may  enjoy  pano- 
ramas of  eictraordinary  beauty  and  extent,  —  views  of  junk- 
flecked  sea,  restful  towns,  green  mountains,  and  the  always 
adorable  Fuji-san.  Few  spots  of  the  world  are  more  charm- 
ingly situated,  and  few  more  generously  bedecked  with  flowers. 
Long  flights  of  crumbling  stone  steps  connect,  here  and  there, 
the  lower  byways  with  the  upper  roads,  and  are  often  overhung 
with  a  host  of  semi-tropical  flowers  and  flowering  trees.  Huge 
retaining  walls  (of  madrepore)  hold  many  of  the  houses  and 
gardens  m  place,  and  in  their  interstices  grow  a  wealth  of  micro- 
scopic flora  and  graceful  ferns.  Here  one  may  see  the  panicled 
white  flowers  of  the  Isopyrum  japonicumj  and  those  of  the 
uniaue  Kerria  gaponica  (named  for  WiUiam  Kerr,  a  British 
gardener),  cultivated  in  Europe  and  America  under  the  (erro- 
neous) name  of  Corcharus  japonicus.  The  Public  Garden  is 
beautifully  laid  out.  In  Apnl  the  lane  known  as  Negishi^machi 
is  a  bower  of  cherry  blooms.  The  Foreign  Cemetery  (founded 
in  1858)  contains  upward  of  2000  foreign  dead.  The  billowy 
hills  which  stretch  away  inland  from  the  Bluff  are  flecked  with 
wild  flowers  and  interlaced  with  footpaths  (magnificent  views 
of  Fuji  and  the  sea)  through  which  it  is  a  delight  to  wander. 
The  region  roimdabout  the  Race-Course  (PI.  B,  1)  is  called 
Negishi  (neh'-ghee-she),  and  is  dotted  with  the  villas  of  foreign 
residents.  The  tram-line  which  runs  through  a  tunnel  under 
the  Bluff  goes  to  Hommoku  (PI.  C,  3). 

c.  Walks  through  the  Foreign  and  Japanese  Quarters. 

A  cursory  view  of  Yokohama  and  its  immediate  environs 
may  be  had  in  one  day  by  devoting  the  morning  to  the  Settle- 
ment, the  Japanese  City,  and  Noge-yama:  and  the  afternoon 
to  Mississippi  Bay  and  return  vid  Negishi.  The  time  can  be 
utilized  to  the  best  advantage  by  following  the  plan  outlined 
bdow;  guide  unnecessary. 

,   The  Hundred  Steps  Tea-House  {chaya)^  on  Sengen-'yama 
(^ptodBinaiJon  biW),  10  mm.   walk  S.E.  (PI.  F,  ^^  ol  \;>afc 


20    Route  1.  YOKOHAMA  PMicC^gdmi. 

Qrand  Hotel  (follow  the  creek  to  the  2d  bridge,  Mcdda^MMahi^ 
cross  it  and  contmue  straight  to  the  foot  of  the  steepish  t^^bi 
of  102  stone  steps),  is  celebrated  locally  as  the  one-time  favorite 
shore  resort  of  Commodore  Perry.  The  original  structure,  along 
with  the  Conunodore's  autograph,  a  poem  written  by  him,  and 
other  relics,  were  burned  many  years  ago.  The  present  tear 
house  (the  FujUa,  left  of  the  landing)  now  occupies  the  site, 
and  visitors  are  shown  albums  with  photographs,  autographs, 
and  visiting-cards  of  those  who  have  made  the  pilgriinage  aur- 
ing  the  last  20  yrs.  The  chaya  on  the  right,  the  Fvjimayaf  has 
a  pergola  festooned  with  fine  wistaria  (beautiful  in  May).  The 
views  over  the  town,  the  sea,  the  country8ide>  and.  of  Ft^  are 
magnificent.  The  hill  observable  at  the  W.  limit  of  the  valley 
is  Noge-yama.  The  Shinto  Shrine  which  once  occupied  a  part 
of  the  crest  of  Sengen-yama  has  disappeared.  Japanese'  often 
refer  to  the  native  circus  rider  who  in  1881,  with  his  dau^ter, 
rode  up  the  102  steps  on  horseback,  then  rode  down  alone 
standing  on  his  head  on  the  horse,  holding  an  open  fan  between 
his  toes  I 

The  narrow  but  clean  street  which  trends  from  S.W.  to 
N.E.  along  the  base  of  Sengerir-yamaj  near  the  foot  of  the  steps, 
is  Motomachi  ('original  st.  at  the  foot  of  the  hill^,  with  many 
small  but  attractive  shops.  The  group  of  buildings  on  the  ele- 
vated mound  at  the  top  of  the  st.  (N.E.)  is  the  Zotoku^n 
Temple,  the  oldest  (reconstructed  in  1870)  in  Yokohama,  and 
dedicated  to  Fuddy  Benten,  and  Yakushi  Nyorai;  festlvaJs  on 
the  evenings  of  the  8th  and  12th  of  each  mont];^,  at  which  time 
the  vicinity  is  gayly  decorated,  and  thronged  with  people. 
Returning  to  the  Maida  Bridge  we  follow  Hommura  Road  to 
its  intersection  with  Odawara  Chdy  proceed  through  the  heart 
of  Chinatown  to  Kaga  Chdy  thence  onward  past  many  ware- 
rooms  and  tea-firing  godowns  to  Kyushu  Cho  and  the  'Public 
Garden'  (PI.  H,  3),  with  its  fine  avenues  of  flowering  cherry 
trees  (lovely  in  April),  and  its  popular  Cricket  Groimd.  The 
pretentious  edifice  at  the  N.W.  comer  is  the  Municipal  Build- 
ing (Shiyakvnshd)f  completed  in  1911  at  a  cost  of  ¥405,000. 
The  small  structure  midway  of  the  garden  is  a  native  club- 
house. The  traveler  interested  in  marine  life  may  like  to  vary 
the  walk,  and,  instead  of  passing  through  malodorous  Ch^a- 
town,  proceed  along  the  creekside  to  the  Nishv-no-hashi  and 
follow  the  electric  car  line  to  the  Public  Garden.  The  quaint 
houses  perched  high  above  the  canal  are  as  interesting  as  the 
heterogeneous  shipping  which  crowds  its  surface.  The  basin  is  a 
snug  harbor  to  which  most  of  the  launches,  sampans,  stately 
junks,  and  luggers  race  when  typhoon  signals  are  displayea 
from  the  yard  arm  at  the  French  Hatohay  and  the  creaking  of 
masts  and  tackle  blocks,  the  flapping  of  big  sails^  and  the  ^^ul- 
jjD^  of  craft  against  craft  are  familiax  sounds  m  the  vicinity. 
At  daybreak  the  Yokohama  fi&bmg-fleet  usually  puts  out  to 


PiArMarkai.  YOKOHAMA  1.  Route.    21 

sea  from  thu  point  and  makes  an  unusually  pretty  picture. 
Hither  it  returns  at  twilight  or  at  dawn  laden  with  many  curi- 
ous piscine  types  for  the  local  markets.  Vast  quantities  of  raw 
silk  are  baled  id  foreign  shipment  in  this  quarter,  and  tons  of 
porcelain  are  pa^sked  each  dav  for  transmission  to  the  remotest 
comers  of  the  civilized  worid.  Beyond  the  Public  Garden  is 

The  City  Fish-Maiket  (PL  H,  3),  of  mterest  because  of  the 
extensive  display  (early  morning  is  the  best  time)  of  bizarre 
marine  creatiures  —  many  of  them  imknown  to  Western  waters. 
To  this  place  the  deep-sea  fishermen  bring  in  many  curious  and 
beautiful  as  well  as  repulsive  fish,  Crustacea  and  mollusks,  as 
do  the  NeapQlitans  to  the  matchless  little  Aquarium  at  Naples, 
and  the  Hawaiians  to  that  of  Honolulu.  Across  the  new  con- 
crete £aneno  Bridge  (PI.  I,  3)  which  spans  the  canal  near  by, 
pours  a  steam  of  traiOQc  that  surges  airectly  into  Isezakichd, 
popular  because  of  its  host  of  attractive  native  shops,  lurid 
peep-shows,  wrestling-bouts,  etc.  At  the  left  of  its  prolonga- 
tions, within  a  carefuUjr  policed  fenced  inclosure  covering  about 
a  dozen  city  blocks,  is  the  deceitfully  decorous  Yoshiwara, 
patterned  alter  the  style  of  the  celebrated  Shin  Yoshiwara  at 
T6ky6,  but  with  fewer  inmates  (about  2000).  The  houses 
(some  of  which  bear  foreign  names;  *  Nectarine  f*  etc.)  are  less 
pretentious  than  those  of  T5kjyo.  but  the  life  is  the  same.  The 
community,  a  small  unsanctinea  imperium  in  imperioy  is  usu- 
ally referred  to  by  foreigners  as  No.  9,  or  as  'down  the  line.'  — 
Isezakichd  soon  merges  into  Nagashima-chOf  and  by  following 
it  to  NagaahirmMihd  Rokuchome  (6th  block)  to  the  bridge 
spanning  the  creek,  then  turning  to  the  right  along  the  creek- 
side  to  a  2d  bridge  (which  cross  and  bear  to  the  left),  one 
comes  soon  to  a  wooded  hill  overlooking  Otamura,  where  stand 
the  Makuzu  Kozan  Potteries  mentioned  at  p.  6. 

Returning  to  a  point  near  (J  M.)  the  Kaneno  Bridge,  turning 
left  to  cross  one  of  the  several  bridges  that  span  the  canal  at 
the  W.  side  of  the  port,  one  sees  Noge-yama  ahead  at  the  right. 
The  nimierous  pretty  bungalows  (Hindustani:  hangldy  a 
'thatched  cottage')  which  crest  the  range  of  hills  are  the 
homes  of  native  merchants;  certain  of  the  gardens,  in  the  for- 
mal Japanese  style,  are  ornate  and  attractive.  The  small 
Daishi  Temple  halfway  up  the  hill  (back  from  the  st.,  left)  is 
uninteresting  except  for  the  fine  view  from  the  terrace.  The 
roadway  is  now  flanked  at  the  left  by  a  massive  retaining  wall 
of  cut  stone;  when  halfway  up  we  turn  to  the  right  and  follow 
the  profile  of  the  yama  to  a  big  toriiy  whence  stone  stairs  lead 
up  to  the  nondescript  Ise  DaijingUy  sl  Shinto  shrine  (dedicated 
to  the  Imperial  Ancestors),  amid  extensive  grounds  whence 
superb  panoramas  over  the  city  and  the  sea  are  obtainable. 
TbB  cherry  trees  are  at  their  best  in  April,  when  they  idealize 
the  entire  region  roundabout:  festivals,  on  the  Isti,  l&Wi,  «xA 
28th  of  each  moDth,    The  tall  shaft  at  the  left  Blanda  to  \i>ii<e^ 


22    RaiUe  1.  YOKOHAMA  NogtiJyameL 

memory  of  those  who  fell  fightmg  in  the  Imperial  Cause  dmkig 
the  Satsuma  rebelUon.  At  the  rear,  on  a  lower  terraice,  is  a 
railed-in,  imposing  bronze  and  granite  baldachin  supported  bv 
8  massive  pillars  inclosing  a  shaft  on  which,  in  letters  of  gold, 
are  the  names  of  men  who  died  fighting  during  the  Russian  war. 
The  rattling  and  clashing  sounds  which  one  often  notes  in  the 
neighborhood  emanate  from  a  fencing-school  near  by,  where 
scores  of  sturdy  young  men  aimed  with  split  bamboos  practice 
fencing  and  swordsmanship. 

Returning  to  the  shrine  we  descend  the  hill'  to  the  Qeft) 
Time  Bell,  a  huge  bronze  bell  which  serves  as  a  fire-alarm  and 
as  a  mentor  for  the  watches  of  the  people  within  the  sound  of 
its  voice.  A  short  distance  at  the  right  stands  the  Buddhist 
Temple  of  Fudo,  on  a  terrace  from  which  an  all-embracing 
view  is  had  of  the  city  and  the  sea.  From  the  overhanging  baf 
conies  of  the  tea-houses  here,  fine  panoramas  are  obtainable. 
Near  the  entrance  to  the  temple  atrium  is  a  tall  granite  shaft 
topped  by  a  ship's  capstan  with  the  bars  in  position,  which  in 
turn  are  surmoimted  by  an  anchor,  the  whole  commemorating 
the  naval  heroes  killed  in  the  Japan-Russia  War;  engraved  on  a 
bronze  tablet,  in  English,  is  the  inscription:  'In  memory  of  our 
brave  sons  that  went  down  to  the  sea  in  ships,  that  did  business 
in  great  waters.  Psalm  cvii.'  By  descending  a  flight  of  stone 
steps  leading  down  from  .the  temple,  then  tiurning  to  the  right, 
one  comes  to  a  fish-pond  and  a  Shinto  shrine  flanked  by  some 
stone  foxes  and  wood  torii.  On  the  opposite  side  of  Noge-yama, 
on  a  hill  called  Kamon-yama  (magnificent  double  cherry  blos- 
soms about  mid-April)  stands  a  bronze  statue  of  Lord  It 
Kamorir^no-Kamif  erected  by  the  men  of  the  Hikone  Clan  on 
the  occasion  of  the  semi-centennial  of  the  opening  of  Yokohama 
to  foreign  trade.  It  is  of  peculiar  interest  to  foreigners  because 
of  the  significance  attaching  to  the  memory  of  the  great  man 
it  commemorates. 

Before  the  final  downfall  of  the  Tokugawa  Feudary,  and  the  conolumon 
of  the  treaty  with  the  U.S.  an  intense  anti-foreign  ifeeling  existed.  The 
Court  was  torn  by  indecision,  and  rival  factions  (comp.  tnito)  were  fioiit- 
ing  strenuously  for  supremacy,  —  one  for  excluding  the  '  barbarian  bandits* 
and  '  hideous  aliens' ;  the  other  for  admitting  them.  Lord  It,  the  Daimyd  d 
Hikone,  in  Omi  Province,  an  able,  far-seeing  statesman  and  a  bitter  opponent 
of  the  powerful  anti-foreign  faction  headed  by  the  Prince  o/ Afi^o,  was  elected 
to  the  post  of  Prime  Minister  {Tairo,  or  'great  elder')  of  the  Tokuoawa 
Shogunate.  One  of  his  first  acts  was  to  conclude  the  treaty  submitteid  on 
behalf  of  the  U.S.  by  Tmonsend  Harris,  and  by  so  doing  he  sealed  his  own  fate, 
for  he  was  assassinated  by  18  Mito  ronin,  on  March  3,  1860,  near  the  Saku- 
rada  Gate  of  the  Imperial  Palace  at  T5ky5.  Warned  of  his  danger  and  urged 
to  increase  the  strength  of  his  escort,  he  replied  *  that  no  force  of  guards 
coijdd  control  the  hand  of  fate  or  baffle  the  ingenuity  of  resolute  aasaamna, 
and,  further,  that  the  number  of  the  Taird'a  escort  was  fixed  by  a  rule  which 
a  man  in  such  a  high  position  must  respect.'  —  One  of  the  assassins  was 
killed  in  the  struggle;  one  who  cut  off  the  Tairo'a  head  and  fled  with  H  was 
incapacitated  by  his  wounds  and  committed  suicide;  3  fell  wounded;  8  8tir> 
rendered  themselves,  and  only  5  escai)ed.  When  the  statue  was  erected  the 
bitter  fceUng  was  revived  among  certain  of  the  statesmen  who  believed  tbafc 
Lord  It  waa  a  traitor  to  his  country.    Soon  theieaitAT  the  anniversaiir  of  Ua 


Sxeuniana.  YOKOHAMA  1.  Btmie.    23 

■■HMJniliiin  WBi,  upon  the  iniftuttive  of  his  enemiM,  oelebraAed  with  oonader* 
aUe  solemnity;  the  MUo  ronin  were  held  up  as  martyrs  to  the  oauae.  and 
further  to  jtuitxi^  the  murder  and  the  murdereis.  pamphlets  were  (in  May, 
1912)  surreptitioudy  placed  in  many  of  the  public  schools.  They  were 
proinptly  withdrawn  Inr  the  authorities,  and  the  monument  still  stands  to 
the  memory  of  an  able  patriot  who  foresaw  Japan's  greatness  and  died 
prematurely  by  reason  ol  his  belief  in  it. 

Kanagawa,  the  original  foreign  treaty  port  (incorporated 
with  YoKohama  in  1901)  and  now  merely  a  station  on  the  rly. 
to  T5ky0,  is  visible  at  the  N.  from  Noge-yama^  but  is  of  little 
interest  to  foreigners.  The  jinrikisha  was  invented  here  in  1870. 
On  the  way  back  to  the  hotel  one  usually  threads  the  narrow 
but  sustainedly  interesting  Benten-dorij  with  its  man^  shops. 
The  fine  new  (complete  in  1900,  cost  1,000,000  yen)  pilastcred 
stone  structure  of  the  Composite  order,  surmounted  by  a 
bronze  dome,  near  the  foot  of  the  street,  houses  the  Yokohama 
Specie  Bank  —  one  of  the  largest  in  Japan.  Were  it  not  so 
hemmed  in  by  flimsy  structures,  thus  making  it  difficult  to 
obtain  a  oominrehensive  view,  it  would  be  one  of  the  most  archi- 
tecturally satisfying  edifices  in  the  port. 

The  orimnal  bank  was  organized  in  1880  with  a  capital  of  3  million  yen, 
>wd  management  has  brought  this  up  to  48  millions,  with  deposits 


d.  BzcorBions. 

Many  pleasant  excursions  (guide  unnecessary)  are  possible 
from  Yokohama^  and  an  unusual  number  of  attractive  spots 
lie  within  easy  walking  distance.  Most  of  the  roads  are  good 
for  automobiles  and  bicycles,  both  of  which  can  be  rented  at 
the  several  garages  —  the  former  at  about  ¥5  per  hr..  the  latter 
at  from  ¥1  to  ¥1.50  per  day.  Jinrikis  are  to  be  found  at  almost 
every  comer  in  the  city  and  the  immediate  suburbs,  and  long 
walks  that  become  too  tiresome  can  alwavs  be  pieced  out  by 
employing  them;  the  runners  act  very  well  as  guides  when  the 
traveler  feels  the  need  of  one.  The  footpaths  over  the  adjacent 
hills  arc  legion:  some  lead  to  sohtary  Shinto  shrines  perched  on 
conmianding  positions  overlooking  fine  landscapes;  others  to 
spots  where  ^orious  mt.  and  sea  views  are  obtainable.  The 
natives  one  meets  are  polite  and  helpful  and  the  district  is  safe. 

Hommoku,  Mississippi  Bay,  and  Negishi.  The  first  place  is 
about  midway  between  the  Settlement  and  the  Bay,  and 
Negishi  is  just  above  the  latter.  The  roimd  trip  (about  5  M. 
from  the  Grand  Hotel)  can  be  accomplished  by  a  fair  walker 
easily  in  2  hrs.  and  leisurely  in  3.  EM*ly  mormng  is  the  best 
time.  The  Bluff  can  be  traversed  on  the  return  journey,  and 
tiie  Yokohama  Nursery ^  the  Renkoji  Temple,  Motomachi,  the 
Hvndred  Steps  TeorFiotise,  and  the  Zotoku-4n  Temple  \\Bv\fc^. 
Mofe  time  mouid  be  allowed  if  all  these  places  axe  t<>  \>e 


2i    Bauie  1.  YOKOHAMA  ffammoku. 

touched  at  before  regaining  the  hotel.  If  a  jinriki  is  emidoyed 
a  bargain  can  be  struck  with  the  owner  for  about  ¥1  for  the 
round  trip  if  one  is  willing  to  get  out  and  walk  up  the  steep 
hills;  otherwise,  a  pushman  must  be  included  at  a  tol^  cost  of 
about  ¥1.40.  By  making  a  long  detour  from  Mississippi  Bay, 
the  coastal  villages  of  Sugita  and  Tomioka  can  be  included  m 
the  trip  at  an  inclusive  cost  of  about  ¥2.50  for  the  former,  and 
¥4  for  the  latter:  two  men  necessary.  Tram-cars  available. 

Beyond  the  Yato  Bridge  (PI.  F,  4)  the  Yato  Zaka  winds  to 
the  crest  of  the  Bluff,  where  the  U.S.  Naval  Hospital  stands 
at  the  right,  and  the  British  Naval  Hospital  at  the  left.  The 
road  forks  here,  the  one  at  the  right  crossing  the  Bluff  to 
Negishij  and  that  at  the  left  (which  we  follow)  passing  on  its 
sinuous  way  some  of  the  most  pretentious  of  the  foreign  resi- 
dences. Bejrond  the  house  No.  142  the  cliff  forms  a  sheer 
precipice  which  falls  steeply  to  the  sea  and  affords  one  of  the 
most  charming  views  to  be  had  anywhere  on  the  Japanese 
coast.  The  wide  harbor,  like  a  pool  filled  with  toy  shi]^  at  one 
corner  of  the  great  Tokyo  Bay,  lies  far  below,  half  encircled  by 
its  giant  breakwaters,  which  from  this  great  elevation  resemble 
thin  but  exaggerated  calipers.  A  thousand  square  miles  of  blue 
sea  that  washes  the  Avm  Peninsula  at  the  N.  and  the  Sagami 
at  the  W.  stretch  away  to  the  limitless  Pacific,  where  the  smok- 
ing cone  of  Miharayama  may  be  seen  on  a  clear  day,  or  as  a 
ruddy  beacon  on  a  dark  night.  Somewhere  between  it  and  the 

gort  the  picturesque  fishing-fleet  whips  and  careens  across  the 
ay^  furrowing  the  water,  flashing  white  sails  in  the  sun,  and 
addmg  unconsciously  to  the  chami  of  one  of  the  finest  pros- 
pects in  nature. 

The  road  soon  dips  sharply,  skirts  a  deep  depression  holding 
a  cluster  of  native  houses,  and  emerges  on  the  flat.  The  near-by 
shore  (numerous  cheap  restaurants)  is  popular  with  Japanese. 
The  road  which  bears  to  the  rig;ht  at  KitagcUa  Kominato  St, 
leads  in  a  roundabout  way  to  Mississippi  Bay.  The  one  at  the 
left  goes  to  Hommokuj  IJ  M.  from  the  Settlement  (tram-cars), 
a  popular  but  unhandsome  bathing-resort  with  a  poor  beach 
exposed  to  S.  gales  that  sometimes  destroy  the  sea-wall  and 
demolish  the  flimsy  beach  shacks  of  the  foreign  residents.  The 
Juniten  Temple^  at  the  upper  end,  a  tawdry  structure  revered 
by  the  peasantry  because  the  statue  of  the  tutelar  saint  is  be- 
Ueved  to  have  been  found  (in  1563)  at  the  bottom  of  the  sea,  is 
Uvely  only  on  June  15,  when  a  matsuriy  boat-races,  etc.,  com- 
memorate the  event.  The  view  from  the  summit  of  the  hill 
behind  the  shrine  is  far-reaching;  the  promontories  at  the  right, 
beyond  Mississippi  Bay,  are  those  of  Tomioka  and  Ktoannon' 
zaka;  the  coast  oiKazusa  and  Awa  Provinces  extends  away  at 
the  left.  A  pretty  stretch  of  pine-shadowed  roadway  contmues 
S.  along  the  sea-wall,  past  pretentious  native  tea-houses  and 
clumps  ol  lowering  cherry  trees.  Fishing  and  the  ga^thering  ctf 


NegiskL  YOKOHAMA  1.  Rauie.    25 

seaweed  fonn  the  occupation  of  the  people.  The  eection  of 
Hommoku  best  liked  by  foreigners  lies  near  the  base  of  the 
hill  —  over  irhich  a  picturesque  footpath  winds  for  some  dis- 
tance along  the  coast. 

HoMMOE:n-HARA,  with  flower  gardens  {hanayashiki)  and 
love^  views  of  Fuji  and  the  sea,  lies  just  beyond,  and  is  a  popu- 
lar Sunday  resort.  At  the  right  the  main  road  winds  across  a 
pretty  coimtry,  then  flanks  the  shore  whence  commanding  and 
beautiful  views  of  the  bay  are  obtainable.  The  native  village 
of  Negishi,  2}  M.  from  the  Settlement,  stretches  alongshore  at 
the  base  of  a  nigh  bluff  crowned  by  the  foreign  district  of  the 
same  name.  The  road  which  forks  and  follows  the  sea  leads  to 
Sugita;  the  uninteresting  Buddhist  temple  at  the  top  of  a  flight 
of  stone  stepQ  (right)  is  the  Fudomyowd;  hard  by  it  is  a  water- 
fall whither  naked  and  credulous  sinners  foregather  on  the  cold- 
est days  first  to  stand  imder  the  stream,  then  run  a  himdred 
times  between  the  falls  and  the  temple  —  an  exercise  called 
Hyakudo  mairi  ('himdred  trips  ')• 

The  views  in  retrospect,  as  one  ascends  the  wide  and  steep- 
ish  roadway  to  the  turn  of  the  hill,  are  impressively  beautiful; 
the  precipice  drops  away  sharply  to  a  little  plain  laid  out  in 
tiny  g^irdens. intensively  cidtivated  and  idealized  by  many 
flowering  trees  and  vines.  Early  in  March  every  inch  of  the 
tillable  space  is  carpeted  with  green,  and  by  April  the  cherry 
trees  are  blooming  and  the  garden-truck  is  almost  ready  for 
harvesting.  A  continuous  line  of  humble  dwellings,  with  gabled 
or  curved  roofs  covered  with  thatch  or  gray  pantiles,  face  the 
beach  (the  main  thoroughfare  to  Sugita)  along  which  extended 
lines  of  rusty  archaic  junks  may  often  be  seen  drawn  up  from 
the  wash  of  the  waves.  The  dwellers  here  seem  to  have  solved 
the  economic  problem  of  the  simple  life,  and  on  a  sunny  day  in 
spring,  when  the  fishermen  are  out  mending  their  long,  brown 
nets,  or  are  working  in  their  small  gardens;  when  happy  child- 
ren add  their  winsome  voices  to  the  music  made  by  the  many 
birds;  and  the  clatter  of  barnyard  fowl  rises  above  the  deep, 
resonant  monotone  of  hunmiing  insect  life,  the  scene  is  one  of 
charming  tranquillity.  The  simbeams  scatter  a  million  dia- 
monds over  the  softly  rippling  water;  the  fishing-junks  troll  or 
roll  lazily  over  thie  billowy  groundswell;  the  sea-birds  wheel  and 
scream  and  fish;  the  air  is  redolent  of  the  first  sweet  perfume 
of  opening  flowers;  and  the  green  hills  dream  and  swoon  in  the 
soft  opaline  haze  that  adds  such  an  ineradicable  charm  to  the 
Japanese  seas.  At  such  times  the  poet's  *  perfect  day  in  June' 
exactly  describes  the  atmospheric  effect,  while  thereto  is  added 
the  enchantment  which  only  Asiatic  junks  with  high  poops  and 
sails  ribbed  like  dragons'  wings  can  give  to  a  sea  view.  Some- 
times at  dawn,  when  a  low-lymg  bank  of  fog  broods  above  the 
sea,  a  curious  spectacle  may  be  witnessed  from  this  elevaWoiv. 
Aj9  the  early  GarnDg-Beet  dnfta  out  to  sea  only  tlie  topB  oi  \i\i'b 


26    RoiOs  1.  YOKOHAMA  Bai»4]4mm. 

talleBt  masts  are  visible,  cutting  the  surface  of  the  fog  like 
sharks'  fins.  When  the  mediseval  squadron  sweeps  out  of  the 
bank  into  the  open,  from  gray  shadows  to  golden  sunbeaikis, 
the  effect  is  as  bizarre  as  it  is  beautiful. 

At  the  top  of  the  incline  the  road  bends  to  the  right  and 
joins  the  upper  highway.  The  hills  are  dotted  with  pretty 
villas  whence  wondCTfiu  views  are  obtainable.  The  Raoe- 
Course  and  the  Golf-Links  occupy  commanding  sites  on  the 
summit  of  the  ridge.  —  Whosoever  sees  Fujirsan  from  Uiis 
region  on  a  spring  day,  when  the  snow-clad  peak  is  wrapped 
in  the  diaphanous  haze  which  renders  it  so  ethereal  and  ghost- 
like, will  never  forget  it.  Few  mts.  of  the  world  possess  in  so 
marked  a  degree  the  quality  of  impressiveness,  and  few  so  en- 
thrall the  imagination.  To  the  experienced  traveler,  the  vista 
from  this  point  usually  awakens  a  host  of  cherished  memories 
—  of  Popocatepetl  guarding  the  ancient  Aztec  stronghold  in 
the  lovely  Vale,  of  Anahuac;  of  Orizaba  gazing  coldly  seaward 
from  the  range  behind  Vera  Cruz  and  dreammg  perchance  of 
the  vanished  glory  of  the  Indian  Confederacy  before  Ccrtez 
and  his  bold  raiders  landed  on  Mexican  soil;  of  Kinchinjanga 
and  the  stupendous  giants  of  the  Himalayas;  of  Aconcagua, 
Chimborazo,  Cotopaxi,  and  other  great  mts.  of  the  world. 

A  number  of  f ootpatns  lead  to  the  right  from  the  main  road 
and  join  the  Bluff  roads  at  different  points.  The  main  thor- 
oughfare traverses  an  untidy  native  settlement  before  it  enters 
the  foreign  section  of  the  Bluff  at  Yamamoto-cho,  whence  it  is 
but  a  short  walk  (up  left)  to  the  Yokohama  Nubsery.  By 
descending  Jizo  Zaka  (the  first  wide  road  at  the  left)  one  comes 
(in  1  min.)  to  the  Renkoji  Temple  (PI.  G,  2),  the  newest  (1910) 
and  most  characteristic  Buddhist  sanctuary  in  the  cit^.  The 
splendid  high-pitched  roof,  with  its  gilded  crests,  gray  tiles  and 
antefixes,  is  strikingly  attractive.  Tne  wide  overhanging  porch 
is  uphcla  by  massive  posts  set  into  bronze  sockets  resting  on 
finely  chiseled  granite  bases;  the  ponderous  A;e^A:i-wood  beams 
which  form  the  front  steps  (shoes  must  be  removed  b^ore 
mounting  them)  are  7  by  12  in.,  an4  the  clean-cut  floor  beams 
3  by  9.  Sculptured  heads  of  minatory  dragons  finished  in  the 
natural  wood  adorn  the  corners  beneath  the  eaves,  and  the  pro- 
jecting beam-ends,  inside  and  out,  are  picked  out  in  white;  a 
decorative  and  weather-resisting  expedient  often  adopt^  in 
temples  of  the  Monto-sect  (p.  cxcix)  —  to  which  this  belongjB. 
The  huge  barrel-shaped  receptacles  near  the  entrance  store 
water  to  be  used  in  case  of  fire.  The  spacious  interior,  with  its 
soft  mats,  quadrangular  metal  lanterns,  plain  coffered  ceiling, 
and  resplendent  altars,  is  clean  and  pleasing.  The  inunense 
sculptured  cross-beam  spanning  the  central  arch  is  formed  of  a 
single  keyaki  bole.  The  gilded  panels  in  low  relief  along  the 
architrave  show  the  customary  tennin  (p.  clxxvii)  and  wave-pat- 
t^me  of  Buddhist  fanes,  and  are  tolerably  good  specimens  of 


StiQUa.  YOKOHAMA  1.  Route.    27 

wood-carving.  The  pilasters  and  cross-beams  of  the  inner 
sluine  are  covered  with  thick  gold  foil,  which,  with  the  splendid 
reliquary  housing  the  fine  gold  lacquered  image  of  Amida  (p. 
ccii),  produce  an  extraordinarily  brilliant  effect.  The  tawdry 
metal  lotus  flowers  at  the  chancel,  though  essentially  Buddhis- 
tic, are  out  of  harmonv  with  the  rich  Indian  red,  black,  and 
gold  lacquered  altar-table  and  other  fitments. 

By  returning  to  the  upper  road  and  continuing  along  it  for  5 
min.  the  pedestrian  may  inspect  the  Bluff  Garden  (PI.  E-F, 
2).  The  near-by  Miyokoji  Temple  has  a  big  bronze  bell  and  is 
prettily  embowered  amid  lofty  trees.  By  continuing  the  de- 
scent of  Jizo  Zaka,  IMkawormachi,  a  prolongation  of  Moio- 
machit  is  reached,  and  the  Hundred  Steps  Tea-House  is  then 
10  min.  farther  on.  This  can  also  be  reached  from  the  Bluff 
road  by  entering  the  lane  (left)  which  faces  the  Police  Station. 

Sugita,  a  somnolent  fishing-village  about  5  M.  from  the 
Grand  Hotdf  faces  Mississippi  Bay,  and  is  of  interest  chiefly 
for  the  plum  trees  which  bloom  in  profusion  in  early  spring,  A 
quick  and  cheap  way  to  reach  it  is  to  board  a  tram-car  at 
Kaneno-bashi  (PI.  I,  3)  and  proceed  to  Yavmta-^shif  at  the 
mouth  of  the  canal.  From  the  end  of  the  main  st.  of  Isogo  vil- 
lage it  is  a  pleasant  stroll  of  about  1  hr.  (tram-cars  aro  available) 
along  a  road  flanked  by  iris  gardens  (brilliant  in  June)  and  the 
sea.  Sugita  can  be  reached  on  the  trip  to  Mississippi  Bay  and 
Negishi  by  turning  left  at  lower  Nc^hi  and  following  the  sea 
to  Yawata  Bridge,  or  on  the  return  in  a  motor-car  from  Kama- 
kura.  High-sounding  names  are  given  to  certain  of  the  older 
plum  trees  at  Sugita  —  'Old  age  nourishing  plum,*  'Crystal 
curtain  plum,'  etc.  The  custom  of  writing  verses  on  a  fancy 
paper  called  tamaku  and  attaching  the  strips  to  the  trees  is 
still  in  vogue;  the  less  innocent  one  of  imbibing  more  sake  than 
one  can  conveniently  carry  is  not  in  a  decline.  The  aesthetic 
taste  can  be  pampered  here  by  eating  rice  cooked  with  plum 
blossoms;  or  the  less  dainty  one  with  plum  pickles  —  the  spe- 
cialty of  the  village. 

Tomioka,  a  similar  fishing- village  2 J  M.  beyond  Sugita,  is 
less  interesting  than  the  hinterland,  which  is  hilly,  with  excel- 
lent sea  views.  At  a  near-by  village  called  Nokendo  stands  a 
Eine  tree  where  a  native  artist  is  said  to  have  cast  away  his 
rush  in  despair  because  of  his  inability  faithfully  to  portray 
the  spectacular  beauty  of  the  scene!  The  Plains  op  Heaven 
overlook  'eight  sights'  of  more  interest  to  natives  than  to 
foreigners.  Kanazawa  was  once  the  stronghold  of  a  powerful 
daimyo.  The  region  is  known  for  a  profusion  of  lilies  and 
peonies. 


I 


28    Route  3.  YOKOHAMA  TO  KAMA! 


.  From  Yokohama  vU  Kamakura  (Enoshima)  to 
(Utaga  and  Misaki). 

Imperul  Gorenunenl  Railny. 

Kamakura  and  Eooshima:  —  Kamakura  (from  kanur-^  } 
-jythe;  and  kura,  &  warehouac),  14  M.  S.W.  of  Yokohama,  b 
Bogami  Province,  anciently  the  military  capital  and  one  of  '^lic 
greatest  cities  in  Japan,  and  now  Justly  renowned  as  aeeasK«ie 
resort  oF  rare  charm  (beautiful  beach;  good  hotel;  6ne  vie»^«l. 
lies  in  a  fertile,  tree-  and  flower-embowered  region  overlook*  if 
thelovely  S;^amiBay,  andshouldnot  be  missed.  The  travel'' 


with  limited  time  may  wish  to  remember  that 

nderably  more  of  reaT  interest  than  the  adjacent  Miyanosbi.  ~^ 

beaidea  being  more  accessible.   The  great  bronze  Datimlm  ^^ 


the  fairy-like  Enoshima  constitute  two  of  the  chief  'sights''  ^ 
the  Empire.  The  winter  climate  ia  milder  than  that  of  Tok^y*'"! 
and  the  spring  ooraes  earlier.  The  hot  summer  nights  are  te  :xi^ 
pered  by  sea^ireezeH.  There  are  frequent  trains  from  Ya%X^ 
haraa  in  40  min.;  fare  60  sen,  ^at  cl.;  36  mn,  2d  cl.  —  The  jrMs. 
to  Ofuna  Jot.  is  described  ' 

The  town  (pop,  SOOO)  ia  on  the  Yakosuka  Braocb  ol  the  Gov't  Ktya.  i 


ilOM0  6/uBo"/d'~A"[aVD'rite  method  'with  pedestriani  ~i»  to  proc^Sf*' 
-■■     ■     ■         idotl ™     .        •;... . 

bB»Daboui"l  MVfroiuO^ino/AVifM.  thV'ffnffdTrvi  ri^piiis 


inrkod  'Yohaiuka, 

0  tbo  renainuie  4  M.  on  foot.  The  broiid  highlV; 
I.agmp,  laa  accompanyuie  pJan)  flauha  the  riy.  and  traveraca  h  qened 
Valleya  lying  betweeo  yeidure-qovorort  hiJfi.   Tho  oulflkirts  o[  Ki 


f 


Kenah^i  IB  i  M.  bpyoiid 

nacAimaa  Temtile.  Thocoitoiry  la  iKaumui,  poamui.  aoa  sue.  unir»K.v-; 
haatilne  to  waste,  the  aevoraldwaying  lamiJns  nod  tombs,  and  tho  CoMsrJf 
roOuta  hard  by  (Vuiu  Jd.  will  not  mpayavialt.  The  [ntter(20  mio.  wkV" 
Jinriki,  25-3S  leit  far  the  rauod  trip)  are  mere  holea  m  the  clirl,  with  »M^ 
tnodem  crude  ouvtoije  of  Buddhist  subjocte.  The  local  guide  eipegU  10 — gjl 
len.  Bimilar  caves  arc  scattered  tJirouehout  Japan,  and  nro  cuatoauv^^ 
.lefared  to  by  tho  peaainta  as  'wiBri  coyaa'  <Jcate-ana),  and  aie  med  •* 
Bloring  grain. 

Kamikdba  Town  in  Mitlered  over  b  wide  irea  dotted  wiUi  numygrc"'^™ 

burias.   The  nstlre  teetaimnu  facing  the  atation' axe  inferior  to  llwl»='*'' 

■----■  --.low.    The  tram-CEi  terminus  is  tliat  of  tho  line  tu  K»^»« 

The  vide  (leenihacled   avenue  which  leads  left  to  the  |)  P>^l 
«9  up  from  the  aeo  Bt  the  riEht,  __j- 

(Fl.  C,  3).  B  largo,  modom  estahlishment  In  a  <r*^ 

.... , aapedalty.  English  spuhen.  Boautitul  beach  at  ***• 

reu.  Bread  balcnmeg.  Rates  from  ¥B  to  ¥S  a  day ;  f or  two  in'ra.  in  1  rof*m  _, 
¥11-13:  1U%  dfacount  for  3  weeke  or  mora.  Special  rates  for  •  loai^i'V-  t 
BreiUltiatooV.*liTiffin,*1.50(I>inner,¥1.76.  Recommende,! .  Fislti*«-      | 

and  boating-trips  can  be  arranged  wilb  *^-  ^■''"  "*  '■"■  ■" 

Hiatarical  sketch.   When  JV inamWo  I 
where  he  had  been  odled  by  Kiyor 


I  IZlh  to  the  middle  ol  X'm  Ibtti  ten*..  \nVbsiii.sBlA\\»Brg 


Bnmae  Buddha.  KAMAKURA  $.  Bouie.    29 

oppodie  one  at  the  W.,  and  the  sea  at  the  S.  After  the  downfall  of  the  Mina- 
mtOo,  the  Fujwara  shdmm  and  members  of  the  Impeiial  family  continued  to 
reside  at  Kamakura:  piuaces,  temples,  residences  of  nobles  were  built  in  great 
number,  and  a  happy,  active  population  of  over  200,000  people  are  said  to 
have  once  lived  and  worked  and  loved  where  a  fi^ng-villa^e  and  a  few  storm- 
beaten  temples  now  stand  to  remind  the  traveler  of  vanished  glory.  Histoiv 
records  that  a  century  after  Yoritomo^a  death  this  great  military  capital  shel- 
tered a  million  people;  in  which  case  it  must  have  been  almost  as  large  as  the 
present  Tdkyd. 

Besides  the  Minamoto,  and  the  Hojd  and  Aahihaga  rulers,  Nichiren  and 
other  Buddhist  xealots  lived  and  worked  here,  and  in  their  time  passed  away 
to  Join  the  shadowy  ancestral  hosts  who  form  the  prototypes  of  the  present- 
day  Japanese.  During  the  Oenkd  war  (1333),  Nitta  Yoahiaada  took  Kamakura, 
and  a  ^rt  of  the  vast  city  was  reduced  to  ashes.  The  Aahikaga  ahoguna 
rebuilt  it,  and  in  1349,  Takaujit  having  appointed  his  son  Motouji  regent  of 
the  £.  provinces,  installed  him  here.  But  the  dvil  wars  of  the  following  cen- 
tury, the  substitution  (in  1439)  of  the  Ueauoi  for  the  Aahikaga  as  Ktoan- 
?td  (rulers),  the  siege  of  1454,  and  the  great  fire  of  1526  laid  the  city  in  ruins, 
he  near-by  city  of  Odawara,  which  next  roee  as  the  seat  of  the  powerful 
Hiijd  family,  di«w  to  itself  large  numbers  of  Kamakura's  inhabitants,  and 
the  founding  of  Yedo  in  1603  dealt  it  a  blow  from  which  it  never  recovered. 

The  ^Bronze  Buddha  {Daibutsu;  pron.  die-boots') ^  a  colossal 
representation  of  Amida  (comp.  p.  ccii),  the  favorite  Japanese 
divinity,  sits  unprotected  in  a  sequestered  fold  of  the  valley 
(PL  B-C,  3)  li  M.  W.  from  the  rly.  station  (follow  the  car- 
track  to  the  right,  then  turn  up  at  the  right:  15-20  min.  walk: 
jinriki  20  sen)  on  an  elevated  site  sheltered  by  green  hills  ana 
overshadowed  by  lofty  pines  and  noble  cryptomerias.  It  is 
under  the  protection  of  the  Kotokipdn  Monastery^  by  whose 
order  this  notice  appears  on  the  gate:  *  Stranger,  whosoever 
thou  art  and  whatsoever  be  thy  creed,  when  thou  enterest  this 
sanctuary  remember  thou  treadest  upon  ground  hallowed  by 
the  worship  of  ages.  This  is  the  temple  of  Buddha  and  the  gate 
of  the  Eternal,  and  should  therefore  be  entered  with  rever- 
ence.' Another  notice  admonishes  strangers  that  no  photo- 
graphing is  allowed,  and  that  the  custom  of  permitting  travel- 
ers to  climb  to  the  Buddha's  lap  and  be  photographed  standing 
in  his  hand  has  been  discontinued. 

The  greenish-black  statue,  the  most  majestic  among  Japan- 
ese sacred  effigies  in  bronze,  and  an  extraordinary  relic  of  the 
great  past,  sits  on  a  lotus-flower,  without  an  aureole,  on  a  socle 
of  crude  masonry  about  5  ft.  high,  and  seems  to  fill  the  entire 
end  of  the  narrow  valley  with  its  giant  bulk.  Though  smaller 
than  that  at  Nara,  it  excels  it  in  artistic  execution,  repose,  and 
nobility  and  restfulness  of  expression.  It  was  cast  in  1252  a.d. 
by  Ono  Goroyemon,  in  plates  about  1  in.  thick  joined  with  such 
skill  that  a  few  only  of  the  seams  have  been  bared  by  the  long 
exposure  to  the  weather.  The  measurements  are:  height,  49  ft. 
7  in.;  circumference,  97  ft.  2  in.;  c.  of  the  thumb,  3  ft.;  length 
of  face,  8  ft.  5  in.;  of  eye,  3  ft.  11  in.;  of  eyebrow,  4  ft.  2  in.;  of 
the  ear,  6  ft.  6  in. ;  of  the  nose,  3  ft.  9  in.;  from  knee  to  knee,  35 
ft.  8  in. ;  width  of  mouth,  3  ft.  2  in.;  from  ear  to  ear,  17  ft.  9  in. 
It  18  said  that  the  eyes  are  of  pure  gold  and  that  the  boea  on  Wi<& 
fdtebead  (which  ia  1  ft  3  id.  in  diameter  and  repre&eTit&  \j\i<& 


30    Route  2.  KAMAKURA  Temfka, 

jewel  which  sheds  a  radiance  over  the  universe)  contains  30  lbs. 
of  pure  silver;  There  are  830  curls  on  the  head,  each  9  in.  hi|di, 
and  supposed  to  represent  the  snails  which,  according  to  we 
legend,  once  crawled  up  the  original  Buddha  to  shelt^  his  bald 
head  from  the  burning  sun!  When  completed,  the  statue 
(which  weighs  450  tons)  was  inclosed  in  a  building  50  yds.  sq. 
with  a  massive  roof  supported  by  63  immense  keyaki^Yfooa 
columns;  this  structure  was  destroyed  by  a  tidal  wave  in  1369, 
as  was  a"  similar  one  in  1494  —  since  when  the  image  has  re- 
mained unhoused.  Some  of  the  foundation  stones  still  stand. 
Inside  the  head  (entrance  fee,  2  Ben)  is  a  standing  gilt  figurine  oi 
Amida  backed  by  a  gilded  mandorla.  The  inscriptions  on  the 
bronze  tablets  refer  to  the  history  of  the  image.  The  nobly 
proportioned  head,  bent  forward  slightly  as  if  weighted  witn 
the  wisdom  of  the  ages,  imparts  the  impression  of  profound 
meditation;  the  serene  majesty  of  the  calm,  beautuul,  pure 
Hindu  type  of  face  combines  wonderful  peace  with  complete 
detachment  from  its  environment.  A  vague  luster  as  of  Mint- 
ing gold  slants  out  from  the  half-closed,  all-seeing  eyes,  while 
the  whole  body  indicates  absorption,  lack  of  tension,  and  the 
blessed  peacefulness  of  nirvana.  The  mouth  is  closed  ti^Uy; 
the  hands  rest  in  the  lap,  the  thumbs  touching  each  other. 

The  Temple  of  Hase-no-Kwannon  (PL  B-C,  3),  a  dilapi- 
dated, bam-like  structure  founded  (perhaps)  by  the  Empress 
Gensho  in  a.d.  736,  dates  from  the  15th  cent,  and  stands  a 
short  way  to  the  left  of  the  DaibutsUy  on  a  lofty  terrace  whence 
sweeping  views  of  Kamakura  and  the  surrounding  country 
may  be  had.  Foreigners  visit  it  usually  for  a  glimpse  of  thie 
huge  carved  and  gilded  figure  (comp.  Ha^e-deray  Rte.  34)  of  the 
Eleven-faced  Kwannony  which  stands  in  a  darksome  retreat 
behind  folding  doors  opened  for  10-20  sen.  The  bronze  figure 
facing  the  apartment  represents  Dainichi  Nyoraij  and  was  a 
gift  to  the  temple  by  the  Ashikaga  shogun^  Yoshimasa, 

The  Temple  of  Hachiman,  on  Tsurugaoka  HiU  (PL  D,  2), 
10  min.  walk  to  the  N.  of  the  rly.  station,  and  at  the  N.  ter- 
minus of  the  splendid  old  pine-flanked  avenue  which  leads  up 
from  the  (1  M.)  ocean,  is  one  of  the  most  important  of  the 
temples  dedicated  to  Ojin  Tcnno,  the  Japanese  Mars. 

Ojin  Tennd,  the  15th  Mikado  (a.d.  201-310)  was  the  son  of  the  JSmprcM 


Jingo,  whom  history  enshrines  as  a  woman  distinguished  for  beauty,  intelli- 
gence, piety,  energy,  and  warlike  spirit.  When  accompanying  her  m 
Chuai  Tennd,  to  suppress  a  revolt  m  Kyushu,  she  learned  that  it  had  been 


instigated  by  the  ruler  of  one  of  the  Korean  principalities,  and  forthwith  she 
counseled  tne  invasion  of  that  country.  The  Emperor  demurred,  but  soon 
thereafter  died,  and  the  Empress,  keeping  his  death  a  secret,  acting  aa  a 
Regent  for  her  unborn  son,  and  accompanied  by  her  faithful  couneelcw, 
Take»hi-uchi  no  Sukune,  or  Takenouchi  (the  Japanese  Methuselah,  who 
died  aged  306  yrs.,  and  who  was  a  favorite  subject  with  the  early  color-print 
makers),  fitted  out  a  fleet,  clad  herself  in  manly  armor,  invaded  Korea  and 
subdued  it.  The  popular  belief  is  that  the  future  war-god's  pre-natal  miiit 
animated  her  and  enabled  her  to  perform  this  great  undertaldnc,  and  nom 
t/uB  circiuDBtaDce  a  number  of  temples  were  erected  to  him  and  in  time  1m 


The  KenchUfi.  KAMAKURA  e.  Route.    31 

beeame  the  tutelar  d  tbe  Minamotocian.  In  712,  the  Empreaa  Oemmei  had 
a  shrine  erected  to  him  at  Usa,  in  Buxen,  and  on  the  occasion  of  its  dedica- 
tion 8  white  banners  were  seen  to  descend  from  heaven  I  In  consequence  of 
this  miraculous  apfMuition  the  shrine  received  the  title  of  Tabata-mo-Ycuh- 
uo,  or  '  Sanctuary  <^  the  Bright  Banners,'  and  Ojin  was  honored  with  the 
canonical  title  of  Hackiman  (Chinese:  '  eight  banners  ')  Dai-jingH.  In  later 
times,  the  Buddhist  priests,  who  were  endeavoring  to  amaliEamate  Shintd 
with  their  own  creed,  discovered  that  Ojin  incorporated  the  eight  incama- 
ticms  of  a  BoaaUu,  and  thereafter  Buddhists  and  ShintGists  alike  worshii>ed 
him  as  the  God  of  War. 

Between  tbe  yrs.  1041-1108  another  Hachitnan  sprang  up  in  the  person  of 
Minamoto  Yoshxie,  oldest  son  of  Yoriyoahi;  the  father  prayed  to  Haehiman 
tar  a  brave  and  warlike  son  and  was  rewarded  by  one  who  gained  such  re- 
nown that  he  is  remembered  as  one  of  the  most  valiant  and  dashing  charac- 
ters of  the  Middle  Ages.  The  father  named  him  Hachiman-Tard,  or  '  First- 
bom  son  of  Haehitnan.'  Numerous  shrines  and  temples  stand  to  both  the 
Haehitnans  throughout  the  country,  and  to  them  youths  go  to  pray  ior  valor; 
mothers  to  c<»nmend  their  sons  to  their  keeping  in  time  of  war;  and  wives  to 
plead  for  the  safety  <tf  their  husbands.   (Comp.  Yaioata  Haehiman,  Rte.27). 

The  approach  to  the  temple  is  unusually  picturesque;  the 
broad  lotus-pond  in  the  lower  yard,  near  the  big  drum-bridge, 
18  a  glory  in  August..  The  aped  icho  tree^  said  to  be  over  a  thous- 
and ^ears  old,  near  the  wide  steps  leading  to  the  upper  ter- 
race, is  of  considerable  historical  significance  to  the  Japanese, 
since  it  sheltered  the  high-priest*  Xt^^yo,  who  in  1219  murdered 
the  3d  (and  last)  Minamoto  ahogun,  SanetomOf  as  he  was 
descending  the  steps  from  the  temple.  The  present  structure, 
in  the  RyobvrShwid  stvle,  dates  from  1828  and  occupies  the 
site  of  one  destroyed  by  fire.  The  immense  wooden  doors, 
swung  on  pivots  let  into  soffits,  are  heavily  embossed  after  the 
Moorish  manner.  The  temple  proper  contains  nothing  to  inter- 
est the  traveler,  but  in  the  arcade  which  surrounds  it  on  3  sides 
(fee,  10  sen)  is  an  interesting  collection  of  ancient  arms  and 
armor,  numerous  relics  of  leyasu  and  of  other  ahoguns;  some 
sculptured  wood  images  ascribed  to  Unkei;  a  curious  old 
conch-trumpet,  etc. 

The  '*'Kenchoii  (PI.  D,  2),  a  huge,  sadly  time-stained  temple 
founded  by  the  bonze  Doryu  in  1253  (during  the  Kencho  Era, 
whence  its  name),  is  the  seat  of  a  subdivision  of  the  Rinzai 
branch  of  the  Zen  sect  (p.  cxcix)  of  Buddhists,  and  stands  well 
back  from  the  road  i  M.  N.E.  of  the  Haehiman  Temple.  It  is 
reached  by  following  the  highway  up  through  a  deep  cut  in  the 
hills,  then  past  a  line  of  houses  and  gardens  amid  bamboo 
proves,  lofty  trees,  and  a  riot  of  semi-tropical  vegetation.  A  big 
bronze  bell  swings  in  a  low  tower  at  the  right  of  the  colossal 
inner  gate,  and  as  one  crosses  the  threshold  of  this  and  passes 
from  the  lively  thoroughfare,  vocal  with  children's  voices,  to 
the  ancient  grove  of  giant  cryptomerias  and  junipers,  where 
the  whitening  skeletons  of  the  vast  fanes  repose  amid  a  solemn 
spiritual  solitude,  the  contrast  is  abrupt  and  complete.  Save 
for  the  thin  wind  which  sighs  and  moans  almost  ceaselessly 
through  the  lofty  trees  (as  if  lamenting  the  vanished  apWiidoT 
of-  ihOgunsd  days^  a  str&Dge  and  penetrating  meXaiieYioV^ , 


32    Route  2.  KAMAEURA  The  KmiMji. 

accentuated  by  the  effects  of  a  hoary  antiquity,  broods  above 
the  place,  and  suggests  the  mutability  of  temporal  things. 
'The  weirdness  of  decay  manifest  in  the  temples,  the  neutral 
tones  of  the  old  timbers,  the  fading  spectral  ^ays  and  yellows 
of  wall  surfaces,  the  eccentricities  of  the  jomts,  the  caiYtngB 
of  waves  and  dragons  and  demons,  once  splendid  with  lacquer 
and  gold,  now  time-whitened  to  the  tint  of  smoke,  and  looking 
as  if  about  to  curl  away  like  smoke  and  vanish,  are  all  very 
striking.' 

The  most  conspicuous  figure  of  the  interior  is  a  huge  seated 
Jizo  of  nondescript  workmanship;  the  faded  wood  panels  at  the 
right  and  left  are  well  carved  and  are  erroneously  attributed 
to  the  great  HidaH  Jingoro.  The  weather-beaten  bird-panels 
of  the  coffered  ceiling  are  ascribed  to  Kano  Motonohu,  and  the 
100  standing  figurines  of  JizOy  to  Eshin,  The  brilliant  sunli^t 
of  seven  centuries  has  robbed  every  fitment  of  the  interior  of 
its  youth  and  freshness,  and  the  dark  tiled  floor  adds  to  the 
drab  effect.  Behind  the  main  edifice  is  a  very  large,  painfuUy 
old,  but  withal  sturdy  structure,  with  a  remarkable  thatched 
roof  and  hoary  timbers  that  appear  to  be  held  in  place  by  sheer 
force  of  will;  the  interior  is  uninteresting.  —  The  visitor  witib 
time  to  spare  should  not  fail  to  climb  the  steepish  hill  (ShSjd^ 
ken)  behmd  the  temple  and  inspect  the  popular  shrine  on  its 
summit  —  dedicated  to  HamobOy  a  mythical  hobgoblin  whose 
good  offices  are  insured  by  means  of  the  myriad  paper  prayers 
stuck  flag-like  in  the  earth  along  the  avenue  leading  to  the  top. 
Proceeding  to  the  rear  (left)  of  the  Kenchdji,  we  follow  tfe 
picturesque  path  to  its  intersection  with  a  cross-path,  where  a 
signboard  points  the  way.  Beyond  the  tea-house  the  lane 
(flanked  by  fine  cherry  trees)  leads  to  a  series  of  new  stone 
steps  that  zigzag  upward  to  the  shrine. 

Two  large  bronze  repulsive  Ten^w  guard  the  structure,  which 
rests  like  an  eagle's  nest  on  a  small  plateau  cut  from  the  mt. 
side;  the  cap  of  the  scarp  rises  steeply  behind  it,  and  into 
its  face  are  let  tablets  referring  to  the  history  of  the  shrine  and 
to  the  generosity  of  those  who  made  it  possible.  The  view  from 
the  atrium,  over  the  wide  and  deep  valley  far  below  to  the 
distant  mts.  and  sea  is  glorious.  The  air  is  sweet  with  jpiny 
odors  and  surcharged  with  charm  and  a  wondrous  tranquillity. 
A  host  of  lovely  flowers,  prominent  among  them  cherry  blos- 
soms and  azaleas,  add  color  harmony.  Bronze  and  stone  lan- 
terns, monuments,  mortuary  tablets,  and  much  mystic  para- 
phernalia sit  about  the  yard,  while  within  the  building  are 
many  brass  fitments,  an  attractive  high  altar,  and  numerous 
kakemono.  From  the  end  of  the  terrace  one  looks  far  down  the 
wooded  vale  to  the  gigantic,  weather-beaten  roofs  of  the  (M 
Kenchojiy  embowered  in  its  dense  grove,  whence  anon  there 
rides  up  on  the  vagrant  breeze,  the  deeply  resonant,  melodi* 
oujsJy  rich  tones  of  its  fine  bronze  bell  —  mellowed  by  the ; 


The  Enkakuji.  KAMAKURA  2.  BmOe.    33 

mer  suns  of  700  yn.,  but  still  vibrant  with  its  booming  chal- 
lenge to  Buddhism  and  nirvana.  At  one  end  of  the  terr&ce 
stands  a  lighthouse  that  serves  as  a  beacon  to  those  who  toil 
up  the  steep  slope  at  night  to  lay  their  griefs  before  the  goddess 
within  the  shrine.  At  the  right  of  the  top  of  the  steps  is  still 
another  shrine,  dedicated  to  the  benevolent  Jizd,  protector  of 
little  dead  children.  At  the  left  is  a  converging  night  of  steps 
which  leads  (betwe^i  twin  Unes  of  chains)  over  many  gnarled 
and  twisted  tree  roots  to  the  crest  of  the  hUl.  The  view  from 
the  top,  oyer  a  thousand  square  miles  of  wooded  hill  and  yaJley 
land,  of  rippling  sun-kissed  sea,  and  glistening,  snow-capped 
volcanoes,  is  entrancing.  Out  over  the  lowlands  toward  Yoko- 
hama one  sees  niany  miles  of  cultivated  patches  of  various 
shades  of  green;  tiny  hamlets  tucked  awa}r  at  the  base  of  bold 
hills;  miles  and  miles  of  roadway  stretching  between;  and  a 
towering  mt.  range  on  the  distant  skyline,  oeaward  the  won- 
derful cone  of  Fuji,  the  smoking  crater  of  Oshima,  the  cres- 
cent shaped  beach  of  Kamakura,  and  the  gem-like  island  of 
Enoshima  are  the  chief  features  in  the  line  of  vision.  —  Ladies 
usually  find  the  descent  easiest  when  keeping  outside  the  chain 
and  maintaining  it  as  a  support  at  the  nght.  —  Regaining  the 
main  road  and  following  it  (right)  to  the  point  where  it  crosses 
Uie  rly.,  then  continuing  along  it  to  a  cluster  of  houses  where 
(i  M.)  two  tall  torn  stend  astride  it,  one  enters  the  grove 
(right)  which  envelope 

The  Enkakuji  ('remote  temple')»  a  spot  beautiful  with 
flowers  and  lissome  bamboos.  The  curious  pagoda-like  granite 
monument  rising  from  a  tortoise  at  the  left  of  the  terrace,  was 
erected  by  popi3ar  subscription  to  commemorate  the  Kama- 
kura men  who  perished  in  the  Japan-Russia  War.  The  several 
shallow  caves  behind  it  are  not  always  free  from  large  (5  ft.  or 
more  long)  grayish-green  venomous  serpents  called  aodaishd, 
and  other  reptiua.  —  The  chief  object  of  the  temple  interior,  a 
big  gilt  Buddha  backed  by  a  huge  mandorla,  is  not  as  inter- 
esting as  the  Great  Bell,  the  largest  in  Kamakura,  which  han^ 
in  a  massive,  vermiculated  belfry  at  the  summit  of  148  dilapi- 
dated steps  leading  upward  from  the  wood  torii  opposite  the 
bi^  gate.  It  dates  from  a.d.  1201,  is  4  ft.  7  in.  in  diameter,  6  in. 
thick  at  the  lip,  weighs  over  a  ton  and  is  8  ft.  high.  In  the  small 
shrine,  hard  by  the  tower,  are  a  number  of  curious  paintings 
illustrating  an  ancient  procession  between  Kamakura  and 
Enoshima,  and  said  to  be  upward  of  600  yrs.  old.  — ^  As  indi- 
cated at  p.  28,  the  walk  hence  over  the  highroad  to  Ofuna  Jet. 
is  no  farther  than  the  return  to  the  Kamakura  Station. 

The  Kamakura-no-miya  (PI.  D,  2) j&  Shinto  shrine  erected  in 
1809  to  the  memory  of  the  Emperor  Go-daigo's  son,  stands 
i^xnit  i  M.  N.E.  of  the  Hachiman  Tempje,  and  is  of  purely 
historical  interest.  The  cavern  in  which  Oto-no-^ya  was  \ixi- 
pawned  after  his  unsuccessf zii  attempt  to  overthrow  the  ieud«X 


34    BtnUe  2.  ENOSHIMA 

gov't,  is  a  dank  place  cut  from  the  hill  behind  the  shrine  and 
defended  by  a  fence  and  closed  doors.  Between  the  shrine  and 
Hachiman,  at  the  end  (right)  of  a  converging  roadway,  on  a 
narrow  terrace  cut  from  the  hill,  in  a  small  mclosure,  is  the 
neglected  tomb  of  the  great  Minamoto  Yoritomo,  Other  equally 
dilapidated  ones  stand  roundabout.  —  Almost  everv  grove  in 
Kamakura  contains  a  weather-beaten  temple  or  shrine,  and 
every  hill  and  valley  for  miles  around  is  heavy  with  the  bones 
of  dead  notables.  Minor  temples  are  the  Komydji;  the  Kohur 
onji,  with  numerous  large  images  ascribed  to  Unkeiy  but  far 
more  likely  the  work  of  some  later  artist;  and  the  EnnSttij  with 
a  sculptured  figure  of  Emma-d  also  attributed  to  Unkei  and 
called  *work  of  the  revived  Unkeiy^  from  the  circumstance 
that  the  Regent  of  Hell  is  reputed  to  have  returned  the  master 
to  earth  with  the  injunction  not  to  come  back  until  he  had 
carved  a  good  image  of  him.  The  Sixteen  Pools  (JQ-roku-ido), 
where  Kobo-Daishi  is  said  to  have  bathed,  are  not  worth 
visiting. 

A  stretch  of  fine  sanded  beach  (  Yuigahama)  lies  oresoent- 
shaped  behind  the  hotel,  and  is  the  delight  of  children.  When 
strong  winds  blow  inland  a  heavy  sea  pounds  the  sand  into 
huge  dunes.  In  calm  weather  the  foam-crested  rollers  brin^  in 
a  myriad  seed-clams  that  bury  themselves  with  whimsical 
rapidity  as  soon  as  they  strike  the  beach  —  which  here  is 
patrolled  by  men  and  women  who  pick  up  the  many  varieties 
of  seaweed  tossed  up  by  the  waves,  and  watch  the  fishing-boats 
come  in  and  unload  their  queer  cargoes  of  marine  creatures. 
On  this  beach,  in  the  13th  cent.,  the  emissaries  of  the  great 
KvJblai  Khan  were  beheaded  as  a  reminder  that  the  Nipponese 
did  not  fear  a  Mongolian  invasion  and  would  not  pay  tribute 
to  any  Mongol  prince.  The  boys  in  the  native  town  at  the  E. 
end  often  repair  hither  to  fly  big  kites  with  long  trailing  tails. 
The  tall  pines  between  the  beach  and  the  hotel  b^id  toward 
the  N.  and  indicate  the  direction  of  the  prevailing  winds. 
When  the  sea  is  calm,  the  boat-ride  across  to  the  Ihragon  Cave 
at  Enoshima  (consult  the  hotel  manager)  is  delightfm. 

Enoshima,  a  strikingly  picturesque  so-called  islet  of  volcanic 
tufa  about  1^  M.  in  circumference,  rising  steeply  to  about  240 
ft.  above  the  sea,  and  connected  with  the  mainland  by  a  narroiw 
sand-spit  covered  with  water  only  at  high  tide,  is  4  M.  from 
Kamakura  (whence  it  is  visible  across  the  bay),  and  forms  one 
of  the  most  populari-excursions.  Tram-cars  (fare  17  sen)  leave  at 
frequent  intervals  from  the  terminus  facing  the  rly.  station, 
and  for  some  distance  flank  the  celebrated  (for  beautiful  views 
and  fine  suri)  Shichi  ri  ga  harmiy  or  Seven  ri  shore.  One  leaves 
the  car  at  the  Katase  terminus  (Ryukoji  Temple;  uninterest- 
ing), follows  the  main  st.  down  at  the  left,  and  in  8  min. 
emerges  on  the  causeway  and  bridge  leading  to  the  island.  At 
tJie  far  end  o{  the  bridge  a  3-sen  toll  is  exacted  and  a  ticket 


ENOSHIMA  S.  RmOe.    35. 

the  visitor  to  be  returned  on  leaving.  The  immense 
r  baskets  strewn  along  the  beach  are  for  imprisoning 
.  The  view  of  Fuiisan  at  the  right,  particularly  when 
nly  through  a  Mostly  haze,  is  of  almost  uncanny 

The  numerous  tea-houses  perched  in  commanding 
IS  on  the  rocky  shore  are  popular  with  the  natives.  A 
main  st.,  pieced  out  with  stone  steps  and  flanked  by 
us  byways,  zigzags  up  the  hill  from  the  end  of  the 
and  is  faced  by  a  host  of  attractive  shops. 
HIM  A  has  been  called  the  City  of  Mother-of-Pearl.  *In 
lop,  behind  the  lettered  draperies,  there  are  miracles  of 
>rk  for  sale  at  absurdly  small  prices.  The  glazed  cases 
;  upon  the  matted  platforms,  the  shelved  cabinets  set 
the  walls,  are  all  opalescent  with  nacreous  things,  — 
iinary  surprises,  incredible  ingenuities;  strings  of 
•of-pearl  fish,  strings  of  mother-of-pearl  birds,  iJl 
iring  with  rainbow  colors.  There  are  little  kittens  of 
of-pearl,  and  little  foxes  of  mother-of-pearl,  and  little 
;  of  mother-of-pearl,  and  girls'  hair-combs,  and  cigar- 
ders,  and  pipes  too  beautiful  to  use.  There  are  Uttle 
s,  not  larger  than  a  shilling,  made  of  shells,  that, 
ou  touch  them,  however  lightly,  begin  to  move  head, 
d  tail,  all  at  the  same  time,  alternately  withdrawing  or 
ing  their  limbs  so  much  like  real  tortoises  as  to  give  one 

of  surprise.  There  are  storks  and  birds,  and  beetles 
bterflies,  and  crabs  and  lobsters,  made  so  cunningly  of 
hat  only  touch  convinces  one  they  are  not  aUve.  There 
s  of  shell,  poised  on  flowers  of  the  same  material,  — 
)n  wire  in  such  a  way  that  they  seem  to  buzz  if  m«ved 
th  the  tip  of  a  feather.  There  is  shell-work  jewelry 
bable,  things  that  Japanese  girls  love,  enchantments  in 
of-pearl,  hair-pins  carven  in  a  hundred  forms,  brooches, 
es,  and  what-not.'  —  Conspicuous  among  these  dainty 
:cQ  large  and  small  balloon-fish  tinted  and  suspended 
■shaped  frames  down  which  they  travel  to  the  delight  of 
i;  likewise  strings  of  the  greenstone  that  bears  such  a 
semblance  to  coarse  jadeite  and  mentioned  at  p.  cxxiii. 
le  notes  the  rare  and  exquisitely  beautiful  glass-sponge 
lossugai  {Hyalonema  Sieholdi),  lacy  fabrics  of  tenuous 
fated  up  as  living  organisms  from  a  aepth  of  200  fathoms 
5;  ana  the  unfailingly  strange  and  interesting  sea-horse 
^campus  heptagonus) ,  or  TcUsu-no-otoshigo,  The  color 
f  some  of  the  chonchylia  are  very  beautiful,  ranging 
delicate  pink,  through  Ught  green  and  orange  to  rich 
►pe.  Prices  everywhere  are  flexible,  and  foreigners  are 
louble  and  treble  for  everything, 
uost  picturesque  spot  on  the  island  is  the  Dragon  Cave, 
d  because  its  sinuous  shape  (370  ft.  deep)  is  that  of  tj[i<& 
which  anciently  devoured  many  of  the  children  oi  V)[i<& 


36    Route  2.  ENOSHIMA 

neighboring  village  of  Koshiffoe!  In  the  6th  cent.,  ocunddent 
with  a  violent  earthquake,  Enoshima  is  said  to  have  emeiged 
from  the  sea,  and  the  Goddess  Benten  (to  whom  the  islaiid 
shrines  are  deidicated),  descended  from  the  clouds,  married-the 
dragon  and  thus  put  an  end  to  his  ravages.  The  credulous  be- 
lieve that  a  hidden  passage  connects  the  cave  with  F^/^i^-san, 
and  that  lovers  who  visit  it  together  are  sure  to  be  estrangea 
within  a  year. — The  only  path  to  the  cavern  is  that  which  sig- 
zags  up  over  the  summit  and  is  called  Chayortnachi  from  the 
numerous  tearhouses  which  flank  it.  The  touts  for  most  of 
these  are  raucous-voiced,  insistent  women,  who  pester  the 
traveler  at  every  step,  and  essay  to  force  cups  of  the  detestable 
green  tea  upon  whomsoever  pauses  for  the  briefest  instant  to 
enjoy  the  glorious  view  spread  far  below.  In  these  (^la-yas, 
which  always  throughout  Japan  monopolize  the  spots  whmice 
the  finest  views  are  obtainable,  marine  zoology  in  its  most 
repulsive  forms  is  cooked  and  served  to  the  horde  of  hungiy 
pilgrims  (throngs  in  July-Aug.)  who  trudge  up  and  down  the 
island  byways.  From  the  summit  (magnificent  panoramas), 
steps  of  light  gray  madrepore  twist  steeply  downward  unlal 
they  reach  the  base  of  the  cliff  (left)  where  they  merge  into 
undulating  steps  (slippery  and  perilous  when  wet)  cut  from  the 
mother  rock.   The  view  of  the  sea  hereabout  is  entrancing, 

Particularly  when  a  whistling  N.  wind  hurries  the  waves  in,  to 
urst  into  seething  foam  on  the  jagged  rocks.  A  plank  walk 
with  a  railing  leads  to  the  cavern  mouth  (admission  5  9en) 
where  ragged,  importunate  men,  for  a  10-sen  fee,  disrobe,  dive 
to  the  bottom  of  the  sea,  and  bring  up  sea-snails  or  whatever 
theji  may  have  planted  there  at  low  tide.  The  waves  rucdi  into 
the  cavern  with  a  deafening  roar;  the  rocks  are  of  a  x)eculiar 
pinkish  tinge.  The  shrine  at  the  back  is  dedicated  to  Benien, 
For  a  2-sen  fee  a  small  boy  with  a  candle  leads  one  into  a  drip- 
ping, subterraneous  passage  called  the  dragon's  tail.  The  uS^ 
eral  corridors  are  supposed  to  be  his  wings.  — Returning  to 
Kalase  one  may  vary  the  route  by  boarding  the  tram-oar  for 
(15  min.,  fare  10  sen)  Fujisawa  and  returning  thence  to  Yoko- 
hama by  rly.  (Rte.  24). 

From  Kamakura  the  rly.  bends  broadly  to  the  left  and  tra- 
verses a  green,  hilly,  and  picturesque  region;  the  Has&^nO' 
Kwannon  Temple  is  seen  on  a  terrace  at  the  far  right:  at  the 
left,  near  the  summit  of  a  tall  wooded  hill  is  a  curious  ChJhiese- 
style  garden  embracing  a  cluster  of  shrines  and  images.  As  the 
hills  close  in,  the  view  narrows  and  the  train  runs  throu|^  a 
magnificently  wooded  district  where  the  vegetation  thrives 
with  semi-tropic  vigor.  Every  bit  of  the  land,  not  too  steep  to 
afford  a  footing  to  the  farmer,  is  under  intensive  cultivation; 
the  smaller  hills  show  garden  plots  up  to,  and  over,*  their  som- 
mits,  and  the  brown  squares  of  freshly-harrowed  soil,  awaiting 
the  quickening  seed,  form  color  contrasts  pleasing  to  the  ejye. 


YOKOSUKA  S.  RaiOe.    37 

Many  ol  the  stcaw-thatched  huts  have  rows  of  lilies  growing  on 
tiieir  roof  ridges. 

15  M.  Dzushi  {zoo''  she),  a  i)opiilar  seaside  resort  on  the  W. 
side  of  the  peninsula  overlooking  Sagami  Bay,  Lies  i  M.  right 
of  the  rly.  amid  lovely  surroundmgs.  A  number  of  Yokohajma 
people  have  seaside  cottages  here.  The  fine  automobile  road 
continues  down  the  W.  ^ore  to  Hayama  C  foothill' )>  a  de- 
lightful retreat  where  certain  members  of  the  Japanese  nobil- 
ity have  country  villas  (besso).  Excellent  sea-bathing  and 
enchuiting  views  of  Fujirsan.  —  The  rly.  now  bears  to  the  left 
and  crosses  the  peninsula  to  the  E.  shore,  cutting  through 
many  tall  green  hiUs  flanked  by  valleys  diapered  with  rice- 
fields.  The  highway  at  the  left  connects  Dzushi  with  Kanor 
zawa  and  forms  a  cross-country  link  between  the  road  skirting 
the  £.  shore  from  that  point  and  the  section  between  Dzuahi 
and  MiaakL  at  the  extreme  end  of  the  peninsula.  The  two  roads 
unite  near  Kikuna,  and  motorists  from  Yokohama  often  pro- 
ceed from  Kcanakura  to  Dzushi.  thence  through  Hayama  and 
Aki^  to  Misaki  and  back  vi&  Kikuna,  Uraga,  and  Yokosuka, 
Whue  the  trip  is  beautiful  at  any  season,  it  is  doubly  so  on  a 
clear  day  (all  too  rare  in  spring)  when  the  broad  stretch  of  sea 
and  the  mainland  beyond  are  visible  along  with  Fuji  and  other 
giant  mts. 

The  tall  hill  seen  at  the  right  after  leaving  Dzushi  is  Fvia- 
goyama.  Many  splendid  specimens  of  evergreen  Coniferw^ 
flowering  BianoniacecBj  and  wild  vines  add  color  to  the  ver- 
dant hills,  whose  bases  are  perforated  with  numerous  artificial 
leaves,  of  no  great  depth,  that  shelter  tiny  shrines  or  serve  the 
husbandmen  as  storerooms.  If  the  season  be  too  early  for  the 
planting  of  rice,  certain  of  the  paddies  are  covered  with  ripen- 
ine  barley,  wheat,  peas,  broad-beans,  rape,  mustard,  onions,  or 
radishes,  and  each  seems  to  vie  with  the  other  in  adding  some 
delicate  floral  tint  or  shade  of  green  to  the  lovely  prospect. 
Dense  groves  of  slim  bamboos  rise  here  and  there  like  gigantic 
plumed  buggy-whips  amid  the  broader  and  taller  forest  trees. 
The  occasional  palmettoes,  with  palm-leaf  fans  in  embryo  on 
their  low  trunks,  impart  a  sub-tropical  aspect  to  the  country- 
side. When  their  leaf -stalks  decay,  they  leave  a  fibrous  sud- 
Btance  which  serves  the  farmers  as  flags  to  frighten  off  corvine 
freebooters.  Primitive  well-sweeps  are  features  of  the  locality. 
The  train  enters  a  deep  cut  in  the  hills,  runs  upward  through  a 
tunnel,  then  downward  through  another  to  the  pretty  bay  and 
harbor  of  18  M.  Taura^  separated  by  4  tunnels  from 

19  M.  Yokosuka  (yo-kos-kah),  a  picturesque  port  (pop. 
32,000)  at  the  foot  of  a  range  of  hills  scattered  over  with 
houses,  and  overlooking  Tokyo  Bay.  One  of  the  principal  gov't 
arsenals  and  naval  dockyards  utilizes  the  fine  landlocked  har- 
bor (nearly  a  mile  long),  and  photographing  is  forbidden. 
Vkitors  are  debarred  from  the  dockyards  unless  equipped  mt\i 


88    Route  B.  YOKOSUKA  WiU 

a  permit  from  the  naval  authorities.  The  Naval  Ai 
Scoool  is  under  Imperial  patronage.  The  harbor  is 
filled  with  war-craft  undergoing  repairs,  and  the  town  i 
martial  by  the  presence  of  many  men-of-war's  men.  1 
usually  come  hither  to  visit  the  Grave  of  Will  Adams,  1 
Englishman  who  came  to  Japan.  His  tomb  crowns  tl 
mit  of  a  hill,  Anjin-zuka  C  Pilot  Hill  0  at  the  rear  of  th 
i  M.  from  the  station.  By  following  the  main  st.  past  t 
racks  (right)  one  soon  comes  to  a  fork  in  the  road  and  a 
which  one  crosses,  then  turns  to  the  left.  The  narrow  si 
now  to  the  left,  now  to  the  right,  passing  first  a  small  Bi 
temple,  then  a  Shinto  shrine  behind  a  tall  torii.  At  the 
of  the  shrine  in  closure,  turn  sharply  to  the  right,  and 
the  long  st.  to  the  foot  of  the  hill  where  stands  a  moi 
(AnjinHi)  to  Adams  unveiled  in  1912.  The  inscription 
on  the  face,  in  Chinese  and  Kana  characters,  &ppTi 
stranger  that  Hhe  graves  of  Will  Adams  and  his  wif€ 
the  summit  of  the  hill.'  The  legend  on  the  back  sa 
monument  was  erected  in  1910  by  admirers  of  the  exile< 
the  names  are  those  of  Baron  Sufu,  Governor  of  Ka 
Prefecture;  and  Sir  Claude  Maxwell  Macdonald  (sod 
Ambassador  of  H.B.M.'s  Gov't  to  Japan. 

The  Tombs,  which  stand  on  the  crest  of  Tsukayama 
hill '),  are  reached  first  by  following  the  long  winding  ro 
then  ascending  the  successive  flights  of  stone  steps  Bar 
trees  planted  by  foreign  ambassadors.  On  a  clear  c 
views  over  the  undulating  country  from  points  near  tl 
mit  are  very  beautiful.  The  woods  are  sweet  and  und« 
host  of  wila  flowers  grow  in  the  underbrush,  and  singii 
enliven  the  neighborhood.  The  shorter  of  the  twin  t< 
that  of  Adams*  Japanese  wife.  Inscriptions  on  the  sever 
lanterns  at  the  base  of  the  socle  advise  that  they  were 
to  the  memory  of  the  pilot  and  his  wife  by  the  resid 
Anjin-chOj  Nihonbashi  (Tokyo),  where  Adams  dwelt  for 
Tea  and  light  refreshments  may  be  had  at  the  cusi 
house  at  the  right  near  the  summit.  The  road  which  d 
the  hill  at  the  rear  goes  to  Hayama, 

Will  Adams,  a  native  of  Kent,  was  sailing-master  of  a  fleet  of  Du 
ing  vessels  which  set  out  for  the  East  Indies  on  a  trading  expeditioi 
Owing  to  a  series  of  misfortunes,  most  of  the  ships  were  wrecked,  bi 
arriv^  at  Bungo,  April  19, 1600.  Because  of  liis  knowledge  of  diip 
mathematics,  and  foreign  a£Fairs  in  general;  and  because  also  he 
and  honest  and  unlike  the  fawning  Dutch  traders  and  the  shifty  . 
Portingalls,  he  became  a  great  favorite  with  the  Shogun  leyasu,  who  1 
promises  induced  (and  perhaps  forced)  hun  to  stay  in  Japan,  whei 
appointed  a  teacher  of  mathematics  and  artillery ;  was  employed  aa 
mediary  with  the  foreign  traders;  and  was  presented  with  the  fief  o 
mura  (Yokosuka),  in  Miura-gori.  When  Adams  realized  that  ha  wi 

Silded  bondage,  he  married  a  Japanese  woman  (by  whom  he  htiid  a 
ied  young)  and  changed  his  name  to  Miura  Anjin  —  the  first  word 
of  the  district  in  which  his  fief  was  located ;  the  latter  a  comiptioiii  o 
engineer.  He  died  at  Hirado  May  16,  1620,  and  according  to  tiM 


V 


PERRY  MONUMENT        fS.  Bauie.    39 

pgOMod  in  his  will,  was  buried  on  the  hillock  oTeriooking  his  estate.  History 
and  the  drama  have  woven  an  aimealin^  romance  about  this  sad,  solita^ 
£eiire  held  in  friendly  captivity  far  from  his  native  land,  and  the  sympathetio 
anind  can  easily  picture  him  standing  on  the  summit  of  the  hill  which  was 
Jater  to  be  his  grave,  gasing  wistfully,  and  with  straining  eyes,  at  the  lovely 

jBea  unrolled  at  his  feet,  and  bey<Hid  which  were  the  wife  and  kindred  and 

«x>untry  he  was  nevermore  to  see. 

The  Monument  to  Commodore  Perry  (p.  ccbndv)  stands 
on  the  seashore  about  4}  M.  down  the  coast  from  Yokosukaf 
,£Uid  li  M.  beyond  the  port  of  Uraga,  A  good  walker  can  make 
■^he  round  trip  easily  in  3  hrs.  and  enjoy  every  foot  of  the  excel- 
lent sea-road.  Shops  and  dwellings  dank  it  nearly  the  whole 
-way,  and  there  are  numerous  tea-nouses.  That  at  OtsUf  mid- 
^<way  of  the  towns,  sits  near  the  beach  and  commands  beautiful 
"^^ewB  of  the  bay.  Characteristic  features  of  some  of  the  way- 
iside  shops  are  protecting  sheds  which  arch  above  the  roadway 
lilce  those  of  the  rest-houses  on  the  main  roads  of  Java.  Fre- 
avent  hasha  go  to  and  fro,  but  are  usually  too  crowded  to  suit 
Hie  foreigner.  The  jinriki  fare  from  Yokosuka  to  Uraga  (50 
xxiin.)  is  40  sen,  with  an  additional  20  sen  to  the  monument. 
^F1.50  for  the  round  trip  is  ample.  —  The  road  from  Yokosuka 
follows  the  contour  of  the  beach;  pedestrians  can  save  a  Uttle 
loy  cutting  through  some  of  the  converging  lanes.  At  the  ex- 
"tfeme  end  of  the  town,  at  a  precipitous  bluff  crowned  by  a 
small  temple,  the  road  turns  abruptly  to  the  right,  leads  through 
a  tunnel,  then  follows  the  coast  through  a  picturesque  hamlet. 
Charming  views  at  the  left.  Uraga  (oo-rang'-ah),  the  clearance 
port  for  the  junk  trade  to  T6ky6,  was  visited  by  Perry  in  1853. 
The  two  dockyards  are  owned  by  private  interests.  Mizuame 
is  a  local  specialty.  The  temple  is  not  worth  inspecting.  To 
teach  the  monument  we  continue  through  the  town,  thence  up 
and  down  over  a  fine  woods-road  through  a  remarkably  pretty 
country.  At  the  far  end  of  Kurihama  village  (i  M.  inland), 
"beyond  a  quaint  arched  bridge,  a  signboard  points  the  way 
toward  the  sea.  The  tea-house  at  the  comer  of  the  road  on  the 
l)each  has  upper  rooms  whence  superb  views  over    Uraga 
Channel  aod  its  procession  of  ships  are  to  be  had.  The  distant 
^ores  are  those  of  Awa  and  Kazusa  Provinces.  The  Monu- 
ment stands  in  the  center  of  a  broad  square  inclosed  by  banks 
^aced  with  stone;  36  gray  ^anite  posts  linked  by  slup*s  anchor- 
chains  inclose  the  broad  plinth,  whence  rises  the  socle,  then  the 
chaft  which  supports  the  flat,  gray  monolith.   Two  vertical 
lines  of  black  characters  in  Chinese  and  Japanese  adorn  the 
^06  of  the  slab,  on  the  reverse  of  which,  in  English,  is  the  trans- 
lation: 'This  Monument  commemorates  the  First  Arrival  of 
^mmodore  Perry,  Ambassador  from  the  United  States  of 
-Ammca,  who  landed  at  this  place  July  14, 1853.  Erected  July 
14, 1901,  by  America's  Friend  Association.'  Within  the  ineVoe- 
^^ne  are  many  young  trees  planted  by  friendly  hands.   At  t\i^ 
li^fd  the  sode  Ib  a  Kaneko  pine  tree,  planted  July  14, 1^01, 


40    Route  S.         AROUND  FUJI-SAN  TO  SHOJI 

by  Viscount  Kaneko.  Another,  called  the  Rodera  (ne)  pine 
was  planted  on  the  same  dav  by  Bear-Admiral  Frederick 
Bodffers.  Modest  souvenirs  of  tke  spot  are  the  equivalve  sheUs 
of  the  ArcidsB  (area  snbcreruUaf  Japanese,  aarubd)  which  lie 
scattered  in  the  sand  along  the  beach. 

About  10  M.  farther  down  the  coast,  at  the  extreme  S.  end 
of  the  Miwrorgori  Perdnsidaj  overlooking  Sagami  Bay,  is  the 
nondescript  town  of  Misaki,  with  a  Marine  Biological 
Laboratory  {Misaki  Rinkai  Jihken-jo)  established  in  1896 
and  containing  rare  and  interesting  specimens  of  marine  fauna. 
It  is  a  part  of  the  excellent  Imperial  University  at  T6ky6,  by 
which  it  is  maintained.  The  highroad  follows  the  trend  of 
the  coast  and  skirts  the  shore  of  Kaneda  Bay  (Si  M.  wide) 
between  Senda-  and  Ame'Sahi,  before  turning  inland  and  Gross- 
ing the  foot  of  the  peninsula.  The  round  trip  of  20  M.  is  a  good 
day's  nm  for  a  jinriki  shafuy  with  whom  a  bargain  should  be 
struck  before  starting.  A  native  inn  at  Misaki  provides  food 
and  lodging  of  a  kind  at  reasonable  prices.  On  Jime  18  each 
year  a  great  festival  is  celebrated  at  the  Kainan-jinja&t  Misaki, 
and  a  gorgeous  festival-car  is  taken  down  to  the  beach  and  set 
afloat  to  the  accompaniment  of  music  and  jubilation.  Immense 
numbers  of  cuttlefish  are  captured  offshore  at  MiscUd,  some- 
times as  many  as  200,000  in  a  single  day.  —  About  1  M.  o£f  the 
coast  is  the  reef-rimmed  island  of  Jogorshima,  the  S.  point  of 
the  Miura-gori  Peninsula^  at  the  W.  side  of  the  entrance  to 
the  Gulf  of  Tokyo.  At  the  W.  edge  of  the  island  (reached  by  a 
ferry  from  Misaki)  y  106  ft.  above  high  water,  is  the  Nagatsuru 
Saki  Lighthouse y  with  a  fixed  green  light  visible  9  M.  at  sea.  — 
Returning  from  Misaki  the  pedestrian  or  the  motorist  will  per- 
haps elect  to  follow  the  road  leading  N.  to  Dzushiy  Kamakura, 
etc.,  along  the  W.  shore  of  the  pemnsula.  On  clear  days  tiie 
sea-views  are  exquisite.  The  country  is  a  succession  of  wooded 
hills  with  fat  valleys  and  native  hamlets  between.  An  auto- 
mobile trip  for  the  50  M.  or  more  from  Yokohama  to  Misaki 
and  return  can  be  arranged  with  the  hotel  manager.  A  car 
holding  6  persons  can  be  had  with  a  chauffeur  for  about  ¥30. 
The,  tnp  is  delightful  throughout  its  length. 

3.  From  Yokohama  around  Fuji-san  to  Shdjl. 

Around  Fuji-san  to  Shoji  forms  one  of  the  most  delightful 
short  trips  in  Japan  and  is  recommended  to  lovers  of  exquisite 
mountaiil,  lake,  and  forest  scenery.  While  it  can  be  accon^ 
plished  leisurely  in  4  days  (3  on  a  pinch),  a  week  should  be  de- 
voted to  it.  Early  spring  or  fall  is  the  loveliest  season,  although 
the  region  is  singularly  beautiful  at  all  times  of  the  year.  The 
inns  are  clean,  attractive,  and  cheap;  a  little  English  is  spoken 
in  them,  and  a  guide  from  Yokohama  is  unnecessary.  The 
S^q/i  Hotd  —  the  objective  point  of  most  travelers  to  the  dis* 


J7-"* 


JOUM^l^.  FDJI-aAN  TO  a  S,Bouik   41 

triflt.TT-isUiidi  on  aU:  eleTftledl  oromantonr  bviriooking  ithe 
nm^lSJisie.8IM  Lake  at  the  N.W.foot  of- Fuji  imKai  Bro>nAcie; 
YlBnriflnaahi-ten .  (tekgrai^  and!  ftelephante  eonn^ctknw),  «iid 
♦he .  EngligtHqpealdng  proprietreas  will/  on  receipt  of-'aa^vfemioe 
advioes,  hav6  the  hotel  coolies  meet  the  trayeler  it  asxw  near-by 
point,  i«lieye  him  of  hig^ge^  atid:  Fesponsibility,  and  conduct 
nun e»fely  to  the:hoteirTheir  my  is  ¥1^ a duiy^and besides 
bekig  trustworthy,  th^  axe  useful  in  many  ways.  There  are  no 
dlseomfoarts^  and  the  futemate  boating  and  walking  between 
B^ami  Yosfaida  And  Sh5ji  is  enlivened  by  some  of  the  mdst  mag- 
nificent views  imaginable  of:  the  lordly  Fup  —  views  of  the  N. 
side,  which  tiavelm  along  the  Tdkatdd'  miss.  - 

Tne  shortest,  quickest,  and  best  way  from  Yokohama  to 
ffliSji  is  by  the  Tdkaidd  rly.  to  (2  hrs.)  51  M.  Gotemba  (fare 
¥2.18^.  Ist  d.^  ¥1.28,  2d  el.),  thence  by  tramway  to  20  M. 
Kami  Yoahida  Qsi  about  5  hrs.,  fare  70  Mn),  where  the  coolies' 
sent  from  tiie  Shaji  Hotel  will  meet  one  wim  chfdrs  or  horses. 
The  uncertainly  m  making  close  connections  with  the  tram  at 
Gotemba,  the  beauty  of  the  scenery  beyond  Kami  Yoe^da,' 
and  tiie  fact  that  the  trail  might  prove  dmoult  after  ni^tfall, 
make  it  undeniable  to  expect,  or  attempt/  to  accomplish  the> 
outward  trip  in  one  day.<  Furthamore,  th^  tram-ride  is  tire- 
some, and  ladUffis  particularly  will  be  glad  enoudh  for  the  night's 
rest  in  the  dean  uttle  Oaakabe  HaUl  (^.&  day)  at  Kami  Yosh- 
idfl  CcaiBstoip  at  the  door)  where  chairs,  a  table,  semi^foreign 
food,  and  mmor  comf cnis  are  provided  by  the  obl^^g  hostess 
(iCngliah  spdcen)^  and  host  —  a  maimed  veteran  of  the  siege  of 
Port  Arthur.  [I^velers  from-T5ky5  can  reach  this  point  by 
proceeding  over  the  Central  Rly.  Line  (Rte.  25)  to  50  M. 
Otmiki  (in  about  4  hrs.;  fare  ¥2.10,  1st  cl.;  ¥1.26,  2d  cL), 
whence  the  tramwav  runs  up  the  valley  of  the  Kaimira-ffawa  to' 
12  M.  (2  hrs.,  48  <en)  Yoshida — an  extension  of  Kami  Yodiida.]- 

The  cost,  of  a  chair  hence  to  Sh5ji  is  ¥5  (4  men  at  ¥1.20 
eadi),  but  if  one  goes  vi&  the  lakes  it  will  be  used  but-  little. 
Jlnr^kis  are  available  to  Funatsu  (40  sen).  Uidess  one  plans  to* 
shoot  the  rapids  of  the  Fujikawa j  and  not  return  vi&  Kami 
Yoehida,  the  best  way  is  to  go  vi4  the  lakes  and  come  back  b^ 
tiie  alternate,  overland  route  described  hereinafter.  In  thiS' 
case  heavy  luggage  can  be  left  at  the  inn  and  picked  up  later. 
Travders  who  contemplate  climbing  Fuji  (see  p.  45),  then] 
going  to  Sh5ji,  and  joining  the  riy.  (vid,  the  river-route)  at' 
Iwabuchi,  can  save  time  and  money  by  leaving  the  tram-car  a,t 
Snbashiri  (7  M.  firom  Gotemba  and  usually  the  station  from' 
which  Fuji  is  ascended),  climb  the  mt.  and  then  go  on  to  Kami 
Yoshida.  The  boat-hire  (for  a  small  party)  on  the  first  lake 
^KawofruckC)  W.  of  Kami  Yoshida  is  ¥1.20;  on  Nishi,  the  2d 
UiB,  ¥1  (about  2Q%  more  is  expected  in  bad  weather^— at- 
«licli  time  the  lakes  should  be  avoided).  The  fares  from  BVi^iii 
liver  or  the  rly,  are  mentioned  farther  on:-    • 


42    Route  3.         AROUND  FUJI-SAN  TO  SHOH 

The  country  between  Yokohama  and  Grotemba  is  described 
in  Rte.  24.  The  Gotemba  inns  are  mentioned  at  p.  48.  Tbe 
tramway  station  is  3  min.  walk  to  the  right  of  that  of  the  riy. 
At  the  ticket-office  travelers  are  sometimes  told  that  a  regular 
car  may  not  leave  for  some  hrs.,  the  aim  being  to  induce  one  to 
hire  a  special  car  (spedallv  shabby  —  seats  6-8  pers.)  at  ¥8.50. 
The  line  ascends  vi4  Subashiri  (p.  51)  to  (4  hrs.)  Kago-zaka 
('basket  trail  0  Pass,  whence  retiu'ning  cars  come  down  by  the 
pull  of  gravity,  often  at  a  disconcerting  speed.  Beyond  this  it  is 
aownhul  over  a  winding  road  (  Yamanaka  Lake  at  the  right)  i 
with  fine  views  of  Fuji  at  the  left  to  (2  hrs.)  Kami  YoSiiaa 
(returning  cars  leave  hourly),  a  picturesque  village  at  the  N. 
base  of  Fuji,  which  towers  ^andly  above  it  (summit  11  M. 
halfway  on  horseback).  Hence  vi&  the  lakes  (Kawagttchi,  3  M. ; 
Nishiy  7  M.)  to  the  Shqji  Hotel  is  15  M.  (12  M.  overland).  — 
The  inn  at  (1  M.)  Shimo  Yoshida  (the  upper  «[id  of  Ksjm 
Yoshida)  is  the  Togawa  0F2  a  day). 

The  road  winds  across  the  fertile  fields  of  decomposed  vol- 
canic drift  to  20  min.  Akasaka  village,  where  the  overland  trail 
(which  avoids  the  lakes)  turns  up  at  the  left;  the  straight  road 
leads  in  30  min.  to  Funatsu,  a  picturesque  cluster  of  housei^ 
embowered  in  mulberry  trees,  at  the  upper  edge  of  Kawaguchi 
('River  mouth')  Lake  (4  M.  long).  Sericultiu*e  is  the  chief 
industry  of  the  region,  and  almost  every  homestead  possesses 
one  or  more  primitive  silk-reels.  Boatmen  are  on  the  watch  for 
travelers,  who  are  conducted  to  the  near-by  landing.  If  one 
happens  to  pass  this  way  in  autumn,  when  melons  and  stringe 
of  yellow  corn  are  drying  beneath  the  eaves  of  the  overhanging, 
heavily  thatched  house-roofs,  and  the  hills  roundabout  &me 
with  scarlet  foliage  that  reflects  its  wanton  beauty  in  the  peUu- 
cid  waters  of  the  lake,  one  will  register  a  scene  not  easily  for- 
gotten. Nagahama,  at  the  far  end  of  the  lake,  is  a  bit  over  1  hr. 
sail,  or  row;  thence  it  is  a  fairly  stiffish  30  min.  walk  up  Torii- 
zaka  to  the  crest  of  the  ridge  separating  the  lake  from  the  adja- 
cent Nishi-noumi  (*  West  like').  The  views  here  are  si)lei)did, 
embracing  as  they  do  the  two  gem-like  lakes  nestling  in  their 
green  beds  and  reflecting,  in  an  inverted  way,  the  exquisite 
cone  of  Fuji.  The  boat-landing  is  at  (8  min.)  Saiko  village,  and 
the  keeper  of  the  poor  and  misnamed  Matsuya  Hotel  owns  the 
boat  and  keeps  the  oars;  hence  to  the  lower  end  (1  M.)  of  the 
lake  is  ¥1.  The  boat  grounds  at  a  point  somewhat  to  the  left  of 
the  squalid  village  of  Nemba,  near  the  Sh5ji  trail;  which 
plunges  at  once  (left)  into  a  wild,  semi-tropical,  bird-infested 
tangle  of  black  doleritic  lava  streams  significant  of  Fuji's  tre- 
mendous activity  in  the  past.  Few  bsrways  in  Japan  are  as 
interesting .  The  decomposed  volcanic  detritus,  a  sheltered  sit- 
uation, and  almost  continued  moisture  have  produced  a  wealtli 
of  beautiful  wild  flora  in  which  brilliant  green  mosses,  lovely 
ferns,  and  Florida  moss  (Dendr&pogon  tismoides)  are  cmiq[iieu» 


AROUND  FUJI-BAN  TO  SHOJI        S,  Bauie,    43 

OU8  features, — the  latter  pending  in  ghostly  gray,  filiform  fes- 
toons from  the  tall  trees  just  as  it  does  from  the  patriarchal 
eucalyptuses  in  ChapuUejaec  Park,  and  from  the  giants  of  Vir- 
ginia s  Dismal  Swamp.  Great  lianas  wind  round  the  stems  of 
the  trees  and  bind  them  into  an  almost  impenetrable  jungle. 
The  volcanic  streams  are  easily  defined,  ana  where  they  cross 
the  path  the  amygdaloidal  stones  are  seen  to  be  coverea  with 
lichenous  forms.  In  some  places  gaping  caverns  are  exposed, 
in  the  dark,  cold  depths  of  which  snow  often  remains  through- 
out the  summer.  The  obsidian-like  edges  of  certain  of  the  black 
stones  cut  one's  shoes  like  glass  and  emphasize  the  value  of  the 
useful  waraji.  The  wonderful  and  varied  plant-  and  bird-life; 
the  fantastic  rock  formations,  and  the  extraordinarily  sin^lar 
aspect  of  the  place  —  mediaeval  rather  than  modem,  with  a 
suggestion  of  elf-land — are  sustainedly  interesting.  T^velers 
should  remember  that  the  fragrant  white  flowers  of  the  AndrtH 
medajaponica  (Japanese,  asemi)  so  much  in  evidence  will  poison 
one  if  held  between  the  lips.  For  1}  hrs.  one  tramps  steadily 
through  this  labjrrinthine  Japanese  everglade,  up  hill  and  down 
dale,  emerging  mially,  and  abruptly,  on  the  silent  shore  of  the 
beautiful,  irregular  iSAo/t  Lake  (Shojirko),  300  ft.  deep  and  3160 
ft.  above  the  sea.  The  path  half-circles  it  to  a  landing  toward 
which  a  boat  puts  out  from  the  (1  M.)  hotel  on  the  opposite 
shore. 

The  Sh6ii  Hotel  0^.50  a  day.  Am.  pi.;  ¥5.50  by  the  week; 
reduction  for  a  longer  stay)  occupies  a  commandmg  position 
on  the  Unosaki  promontory,  above  a  charming  little  bay  a  mile 
or  more  from  the  small  cove  in  which  nestles  the  nondescript 
5Ac[/i  village.  Excellent  fishing  in  the  spring  and  summer.  Carp 
(koi) ;  a  species  of  cat-fish  (namazu) ;  goldfish  (funa ;  comp.  p. 
civ) ;  and  several  minor  species  are  the  most  plentiful.  Boats  25 
sen  an  hour;  ¥1  a  day.  Fishing-tackle  in  the  hotel.  Good  bath- 
ing in  the  cove  near  by.  Many  wild  ducks  make  the  lake  a 
winter  rendezvous,  and  pheasants  and  wild  boars  infest  the  for- 
ests. Splendid  pine  trees  overhang  the  lake,  which  reminds  one 
of  the  silent  tarns  of  Maine  or  Upper  Canada.  The  lake  floor  is 
supposed  to  be  warmed  by  subterraneous  fires,  since  as  soon  as 
the  ice  (2-3  ft.  in  winter;  fine  skating)  thickens  at  the  surface, 
the  fish  disappear  to  return  to  the  surface  in  balmier  weather. 
As  none  of  the  l^es  round  Fuji's  base  have  visible  outlets,  and 
as  the  water-lines  change  frequently,  the  natives  hold  the  be- 
lief that  they  are  connected  with  subterranean  watercourses 
(see  p.  45). 

From  Eboshi-^a-take,  the  lofty  hill  (40  min.  climb)  behind  the 
hotel,  all  the  lakes  are  included  in  the  fine  panorama.  Maruyama 
(3750  ft.),  a  rounded  hill  on  Fuji's  flank  (good  i  day  excursion: 
Kiride  50i8en;  80  sen  for  the  day),  contains  a  locally  celebrated 
lee  Cave  ( KSriana)  popular  with  tourists.  Entrance  iee  ^ 
For  some  unknowT?  reason  the  ice  never  melts  entixeXy, 


44    Rauia  3.         AROUND  FUJI-BAN  TO  SHOH 

and  after  a  prolonged  cold  spell  many  huge  icicles  pend  from 
the  roof  to  meet  the  icy  stalagmitic  forms  which  rise  in  jagg^ 
irregularity  from  the  cavern  floor  (of  unknown  thickness) .  nthe 
traveler  breaks  any  of  these  a  recompense  will  be  demanded. 
To  this  bizarre  cold-storage  plant  the  Shoji  folks  bring  ^Ik- 
worm  cocoons  (kaiko)  and  store  them  to  prevent  unseasonable 
development.  The  cave  is  beUeved  to  have  been  anciently  a  big 
breathmg-hole  for  the  volcano.  There  are  many  lovely  widks 
in  the  Shoji  neighborhood. 

The  Overland  Route  from  Sh5ji  to  Kami  Yoshida  em- 
bodies much  the  same  scenery  as  the  lake  route,  except  tiiat  it 
skirts  the  shores  of  the  lakes  nearer  to  the  mt.  The  charee  for  a 
chair  to  (halfway)  Narusawa  is  ¥2.50;  to  Kami  Yoshida,  ¥5. 
Coolie  only,  ¥1.20.  If  one  expects  to  board  the  11-12  o'clock 
tram-car  at  Kami  Yoshida  for  Grotemba,  and  thus  reach  Yoko- 
hama early  in  the  evening,  one  had  better  make  an  early  start, 
say  7  o'clock.  The  hotel  boat  takes  one  to  a  different  landing 
on  the  opposite  side  of  the  lake,  and  the  firat  part  of  the  way  is 
through  another,  and  equally  attractive,  section  of  the  extra- 
ordinary lava-field  traversed  on  the  outward  journey.  In  the 
early  morning  when  the  entire  forest  is  dew-gemmed,  it  is  as 
beautiful  a  deep  tangled  wildwood  as  one  could  imagine.  At 
the  end  of  2  hrs.  we  enter  a  sparsely  wooded  country,  at  the 
right  of  which  Fuji  rises  in  a  splendor  indescribable;  wmte,  cot- 
tony clouds  drift  round  its  flanks,  and  the  snow  on  its  sunmiit — 
gloriously  beautiful  against  the  steel-blue  sky  —  resembles 
vast  billows  of  corded  silk.  Numerous  lava  streams  are  crossed, 
and  these  alternate  with  groves  of  stunted  trees  and  prairie- 
land.  Beyond  Akasaka  village  we  follow  the  same  roaa  as  on 
the  outward  j  ourney .  The  straight  road  goes  to  Shimo  Yo^da. 

From  Shoji  via  (5  M.)  Lake  Motosu  to  Yokaichiba  Vni- 
LAOE,  where  one  boards  the  boat  for  the  Rapids  of  the  Fuji- 
kawa, is  about  18  M. ;  a  leisurely  day  should  be  devoted  to  it  as 
the  scenery  is  charming  and  will  often  detain  one.  The  river 
can  be  reached  easily  before  twilight,  and  the  boats  do  not 
start  until  early  morning.  Horse  with  coolie  to  act  as  guide 
(along  the  lake  shore),  ¥4;  on  foot  with  coolie,  ¥2.  This  latter 
method  is  preferable,  for  not  only  can  the  journey  be  shortened 
about  3  M.  by  climbing  over  Myojin-yama  (1000  ft.  above  the 
lake,  impracticable  for  horses),  but  from  the  pass  one  obtains 
one  of  the  most  extraordinarily  beautiful  panoramas  in  the 
neighborhood  —  including  Lake  Motosu,  Lake  Shoji,  Fuji- 
san,  hundreds  of  square  miles  of  intervening  valley,  and  a  pros- 
pect that  holds  dne  spellboimd  by  its  varied  ana  entrancing 
charm.  The  pretty  village  of  Furuseki  is  passed  before  Tam- 
bara  (with  a  poor  inn)  is  reached.  Here  it  is  best  to  board  a 
boat  and  go  down  the  river  (}  M.)  to  Yokaichiba,  where  thoe 
is  a  better  inn,  the  F'ujikawa,  or  Wakaoya  Hotel  (¥2),  and 
where  the  innkeeper  will  plan  for  a  boat  for  the  following  day. 


TO  THE  SUMMIT  OP  FUJI-BAN       4.  BotOe.    46 

Hie  prices  of  these  are  advancing  steadily;  a  special  boat 
(^diicn  will  make  the  trip  in  about  5  firs.)  with  4  men  costs  about 
¥10;  the  daily  mail-boat  0^1.50)  takes  about  7  hrs.  Additional 
infornuition  concerning  the  rapids  will  be  found  in  Rte.  25. 

Those  who  do  not  care  to  rejoin  the  Tdkaidd  Rly.  by  the 
river-route,  may  proceed  from  Shoji  viA  Lake  Motosu  to  13 
M.  Kamiide  (coolie  to  act  as  guide  and  c^ry  luggage,  ¥2;  with 
a  horse  ¥4),  whence  a  light  rly.  runs  vi&  Omiya  to  15  M.  Suzu- 
kawa  (fare  46  sen),  a  station  on  the  main  line  of  the  rly.  The 
biunch  is  being  extended  and  eventually  will  pass  through 
Sh5ji  en  route  to  Kofu.  One  with  a  little  time  to  spare  will  feel 
repaid  for  turning  aside  (^  M.  on  the  Sh5ji  side)  near  Kamiide 
to  see  (on  the  slope  of  FujlHaan)  the  lovely  Shiraiio  (*  white 
thread  *)  Watef^aUSf  of  crystal  clear  water  with  a  tint  like  that 
of  a  fine  blue-white  diamond.  The  environing  region  presents 
some  extraordinary  features.  In  some  places  big  streams  of 
water  ffush  noisily  and  with  great  violence  from  holes  in  the 
groun(L  that  are  supposed  to  be  the  outlets  of  subterraneous 
channels  draining  the  Fuji  lakes.  Certain  of  these  streams  unite 
and  form  the  Shiba  River j  which  in  turn  plunges  over  a  wide, 
semi-circular  precipice  of  black  lava  and  constitutes  two  big 
waterfalls,  the  O-daki  and  Me-daki  (male  and  female),  about 
80  ft.  Ingh.  The  scores  of  small  ones  are  referred  to  as  their  chil- 
dren, l^e  myriad  tiny  streams  which  spurt  out  from  the  crev- 
ices in  the  rocks  resemble  nothing  so  much  as  fragile  white 
threads,  whence  the  name.  Near  by  is  the  remarkable  Otodome 
Castxuie,  100  or  more  ft.  high,  and  about  30  ft.  broad. 

4.  From  Yokohama  to  the  stmimit  of  Fuji-san. 

Fttji-san  (Fuji  Mt.)  or  (poetically)  Fujyno-yaTna  (Mt.  of 
Fuji),  often  referred  to  as  Fujiy  and  as  Fuji-yama;  the  loftiest, 
best  known,  most  beautiful  and  most  sacred  of  the  Japanese 
peaks;  a  dormant  volcano  on  the  border  line  between  Kai  and 
Sagami  Provinces,  stands  (approx.)  in  lat.  35°  06'  N.,  and  long. 
13^  51'  E.  of  Greenwich,  42  M.  from  Yokohama,  near  the  sea 
and  rly.  Although  its  height  is  given  usually  as  12,365  ft.  (a 
figure  rememorative  inferentially  from  the  12  months  and  365 
days  of  the  year),  the  Geographical  Survey  records  Kengamine 
('sword  peak '),  the  highest  point,  on  the  W.  side,  as  measur- 
ing 12,400  ft.  To  sailors  Fuji  is  a  landmark  and  a  beacon  visible 
100  M.  at  sea  on  a  clear  day;  and  to  travelers  entering  Toky5 
Bay  it  is  a  figure  in  a  picture  which  time  never  succeeds  in 
erasing  entirdy  from  the  mind.  The  word  Fuji  written  in 
Rdmaji  (p.  cxxvii),  means  'wistaria,'  but  the  ideographic  sym- 
bol is  written  chfiferently  and  carries  other  meanings.  According 
to  Mr»  J.  Batchdorj  an  authority  on  Ainu  matters,  the  name 
h(ji  was  given  to  the  mt.  by  the  primitive  Ainus,  and  to  tVieta 
the  Goddess  of  Fire,  The  Japanese  have  a  score  01 


►-. 


46    Route  4.        TO  THE  SUMMIT  OF  FUJI-SAN 

more  names  for  it,  most  of  them  with  poetic  reference  to  its 
manifold  and  fadeless  charms.  As  the  highest  expression  of  the 
predominatingly  mountainous  character  of  Japan,  Fvfi  is  oov^ 
ered  with  snow  about  10  months  of  the  year,  and  is  a  weather- 
sign  and  prognostic  for  farmers  and  sailors.  Cultivated  plains 
sweep  up  its  base  for  a  distance  of  1200  ft.  or  more,  thenoe  to 
about  4000  ft.  it  is  belted  with  bamboo-grass  and  stimted  trees. 
Forests  of  pine  and  other  trees  mark  it  to  the  6000  ft.  level  on 
the  N.  side,  and  to  about  8000  ft.  on  the  S.  Scattered  amid 
these  trees  is  such  a  great  variety  of  plant  life  that  a  book  (The 
Vegetation  of  ML  Fuji,  by  B.  Hayata,  Lecturer  on  Botany  in 
the  Botanical  Institute  of  the  Imperial  University  at  Toky6  — 
on  sale  at  the  bookstores,  ¥2.50)  has  been  needed  to  catalogue 
it.  Beyond  this  forest  one  crosses  alternate  stretches  of  vol- 
canic detritus  —  fields  of  clinkers  and  cinders,  of  broken  dole* 
ritic  lava  and  similar  materials.  Fuji  stands  practically  iso- 
lated; anciently  the  grassy  slopes  of  Ashitaka-yama  (3950  ft.), 
the  rugged  ranse  at  the  S.E.,  were  the  favorite  breeding 
grounds  of  wila  mustangs,  and  the  sword-like  bamboo-<grasB 
which  now  grows  there  so  prolifically  is  believed  by  the  credu- 
lous to  cure  all  the  diseases  to  which  horses  are  subject. 

Perhaps  no  single  figure  in  the  Japanese  landscape  is  so  often 
portrayed  on  the  various  products  of  native  art  and  industry  as 
Fuji'San;  it  is  carved  on  wood,  metal,  and  ivory,  and  is  painted 
on  silks,  lacquer,  porcelains,  fans,  and  a  host  of  fabrics.  The 
artists  seem  never  to  tire  of  it.  The  favorite  method  is  to  show 
it  enveloped  in  fleecy  clouds  or  with  white  storks  fljdng  athwart 
its  sides.  So  famous  and  so  universally  admired  is  this  sacro- 
sanct peak  that  wherever  in  Japan  a  conical  mt.  is  found,  it  is 
called  the  local  Fuji,  and  few  indeed  are  the  celebrated  land- 
scape gardens  that  has  not  one  miniature  of  it.  It  figures  in  the 
background  of  scores  of  Japanese  scenes,  and  every  native 
feels  it  his  or  her  duty  to  cliinb  it  once  at  least  during  a  life- 
time. A  whimsical  proverb  exists  in  the  language  to  the  effect 
that  *  There  are  two  kinds  of  fools  in  Japan;  those  who  have 
never  climbed  Fuji,  and  those  who  have  climbed  it  twice.' 
Another  one  says  tnat  if  one  dreams  of  Fuji,  one  will  receive 
promotion  to  high  rank,  or  will  win  great  prosperity.  Ftf/i  is 
unusually  beautiful  for  a  mt.  of  such  size.  Despite  its  loftiness 
the  climb  to  its  sumniit  is  relatively  easy;  no  risks  attend  the 
ascent;  good  lungs,  a  strong  heart,  a  level  head  at  great  alti- 
tudes, and  perseverance  are  the  chief  requisites.  There  are  no 
dizzy  ridges  that  upset  one's  equilibrium  too  much,  and  near 
the  top,  where  the  air  is  rarest  and  one  feels  the  fatigue  the 
most,  are  stationed  stout  coolies  (gorihi)  with  a  *  pull '  in  the 
i^ape  of  a  strong  rope  which  they  fasten  to  the  traveler's  belt, 
lav  over  their  own  brawny  shoulders,  and  make  for  the  top  in  a 
whirl  of  energy  and  enthusiasm.  The  record  time  (8  bra.)  for 
the  ascent  from  Tarobd  Station  to  the  summit  is  h^d  by  an 
Englishman, 


TO  THE  SUMMIT  OF  FUJI-SAN       4^  BauU.    47 

ftttaphnwingawitty  writer,  Fvjirsan  has  what  mortalsrarely 
pOHBesB  united:  A  warm  heart,  with  a  clear,  oold  head!  It  is  a 
titanic  crucible  out  of  which  in  past  ages,  the  surrounding 
ooontry  has  been  poured,  and  one  which  may  again  leave  its 
mark  on  Japan:  for  an  inspection  of  its  summit  proves  it  far 
from  being  dead.  Most  foreigners  consider  it  the  most  beau- 
tiful object  in  tiie  Mikado's  Empire,  and  many  climb  it  for  the 
.-sake  of  tibe  entrancing  panorama  visible  from  its  supernal 
ihcaghts.  Nothing  in  Japan  compares  to  this  in  transcendental 
ibeauty,  and  few  mts.  of  the  world  offer  so  varied  a  view  —  a 
iblend  of  land  and  exquisite  sea.  The  Japanese  mention  13  pro- 
'vinces  from  which  PvQi  is  visible,  called  Fujir^mirjUsan^hil, 
(but  the  vista  &om  the  summit  is  almost  Umitless.  Whosoever 
•can,  should  ^t  a  near  view  of  the  mt.  by  moonlight,  preferably 
•on  a  frosty  night  when  the  snow  reaches  far  down  its  sides.  It 
.b  then  like  a  colossal  inverted  cone  of  white  sugar,  with  a  su^ 
.^estion  of  Costliness  more  pronounced  even  than  when  it 
SaowB  through  the  base  of  a  summer  day. 

According  to  tradition,  Fuji  rose  from  the  plain  in  a  single 
night  in  b.g.  286,  coincident  with  the  forming  of  the  great 
•depression  now  oov^ed  by  the  waters  of  Lake  Biwa.  It  is 
thought  to  have  continued  active  for  centuries;  history  men- 
tions the  last  of  the  numerous  devastating  eruptions  as  having 
lasted  from  Nov.  24, 1707,  to  Jan.  22, 1708.  During  this  period 
a  new  crater  was  opened  on  the  S.  side,  and  the  parasitic  moimd 
4of  Hoeirzan  (so-cailed  from  the  name  of  the  era  during  which  it 
hi^pened)  was  built  up  to  the  height  of  about  9500  ft.  Of  this 
outburst  a  priest,  whose  temple  was  9  M.  from  the  £.  base  of 
the  mt.  writes:  — 

'AflBuredly  it  is  an  unusual  event,  that,  as  was  the  case  in  1707,  Fuji-^no- 
tfama  suddnily  opened  in  a  place  overgrown  with  splendid  trees  to  vomit 
fire,  so  that  stones  and  showers  of  ashes  flew  about  and  fell  down  in  prov- 
inces and  (Ustricts.  These  showers  of  stones  and  ashes  lasted  for  ten  dajrs,  so 
'that  fields,  temples,  houses,  etc.  were  covered  with  ejected  matter  more  than 
10  ft.  deep.  Tl^  dwcdleis  in  the  neighborhood  of  Fuji  lost  their  homes,  and 
many  of  them  died  of  hunger.  I  mvself  was  one  of  the  unhappy  eye  wit- 
nesses of  this  terrible  eruption,  and  the  remembrance  of  it  fills  me  with  pain 
and  woe.* 

The  terror  and  confusion  caused  by  the  mt.  are  described  in 
a  graphic  way;  tie  clouds  of  ashes  turned  the  days  into  murky 
nights,  and  these  ashes  were  accompanied  by  red-hot  stones, 
wmch  flew  hisdng  through  the  air.  Finally  the  jarring  din  of 
earthquakes  was  added  to  complete  the  measure  of  misery.  In 
Yedo  there  was  darlmess  by  day  and  night;  the  earth  shook, 
and  the  ashes  covered  the  houses  there  to  a  thickness  of  several 
inches.  The  roaring  of  the  angry  volcano  was  heard  quite 
plainly,  and  all  Japan  was  stricken  with  awe  by  its  wratn. 

Time,  Cost,  and  Outfit  A  quick  ascent  of  Fuji  and  a  return 
to  Yokohama  can  be  made  in  about  36  hrs.,  and  more  leiBUieVy 
b  48  Iffs.  A  sturdy  clhnber  can,  by  ieaving  Subaslurii  al  2-^ 


48    BotOe  4.        TO  THE  SUMMIT  OF  FUJI-SAN 

A.Bf.  raaroh  the  smnmit  at  nooii)  and  after  spending  21its.  there 
(one  of  which  will  be  needed  to  make  the  approx.  2  M.  circuit 
of  the  crater),  descend  comfortably  in  4^5  hrs.  It  is  wdl  to 
remember,  however,  that  a  storm  may  delay  one  at  any  point, 
and  prolong  the  trip  several  days.  Traveling  on  the  mt.  in  a 
storm  is  d^gerous,  and  should  not  be  attempted — particu- 
larly when  a  strong  wind'is  blowing.  The  ascent  is  less  tiresome 
on  a  cloudy  day,  for  when  the  smi  poiurs  down  upon  one,  and 
the  volcamc  scoria  reflects  its  rays  into  one's  eyes,  it  bec(»neB 
burdensome.   The  best  season  is  thought  to  be  late  July  or 
early  Aug.  Residents  sometimes  plan  to  start  on  the  tail  of  a 
tjrphoon,  in  the  belief  that  clear  weather  will  prevail  for  a  few 
days  thereafter.  Perhaps  the  best  plan  is  to  leave  Yokohama 
early  in  the  afternoon,  reach  Svbashiri  before  night,  and  plan 
for  an  early  start  so  as  to  reach  No.  6  or  No.  8  station  leLsiirely 
in  the  afternoon.   Certain  experienced  travelers  recommena 
No.  6  rest-house  as  the  best  at  which  to  pass  the  night,  as  mt. 
sickness  (nausea  and  headache)  is  less  likely  to  attaS:  one  here 
than  higher  up,  where  sleep  might  be  difficult.  By  leaving  this 
station  {Rokugome)  at  3  a.m.  one  can  easily  reach  the  summit 
before  sunrise,  and  enjoy  one  of  the  grandest  prospects  in 
natiu'e.  On  the  other  hand,  No.  8  (Hachigomey  10,000  ft.)  is 
the  usual  stopping-place,  and  one  can  scramble  thence  to  the 
summit  in  an  nr.  The  cold,  etc.,  here  often  renders  sleep  im- 
possible. At  No.  8  the  Gov't  maintains  a  telephone-office,  a 
post-office  where  a  special  canceling-stamp  is  used  on  maO 
matter  deposited;  a  meteorological  observatory  (daily  reports 
to  Yokohama,  of  interest  to  intending  climbers),  a  small  hos- 
pital with  a  doctor  and  nurses  for  those  attacked  by  mt.  sick- 
ness, and  a  place  (fewer  fleas  than  elsewhere)  in  whidh  for- 
eigners can  find  lodging  for  the  night  with  some  pretense  of 
comfort. 

The  Cost  of  the  rly.  ticket  from  Yokohama  to  Gotemba  is 
¥2.11,  Ist  cl.;  the  tram  thence  to  Syhashiriy  50  sen.  There  are  a 
nimiber  of  inns  near  the  Gotemba  station,  conspicuous  amons 
them  the  Fujiya  Hotel  (2  min.,  right)  where  semi-foreign  food 
can  be  had  at  reasonable  prices.  The  usual  charge  for  a  night's 
lodging,  hot  water,  and  fire,  at  the  mt.  stations  is  from  ¥1  to 
¥1.50,  but  it  is  advisable  to  have  a  clear  understanding  before 
engaging  them.  The  tickets  issued  by  the  Gotemba  Trade 
Guild,  while  aimed  to  save  one  the  extortionate  prices  often 
charged  at  the  reat-houses,  are  of  little  use  to  foreigners.  Police 
regulations  fix  the  hire  of  a  guide  from  Svbashiri  to  tie  summit 
and  back  at  ¥1.50,  but  at  the  last  moment  one  usually  learns 
that  an  additional  ¥1.50  must  be  paid  if  the  guide  (or  coolie 
who  acts  as  guide  and  carries  his  employer's  supplies  —  about 
50  lbs.  weight)  is  kept  overnight.  Discussion  can  be  saved  if 
one  will  reach  an  agreement  with  his  man  before  starting.  ¥2  is 
enough  for  a  coolie  for  2  persons. 


I 


TO  THE  SUMMIT  OF  FnJI--6AN       4.  BauJU.    49 

An  Outfit  should  be  taken  from  Yokohama^  as  eveiytlung 
on  the  mt.  is  expensive.   Furthermore  the  insipid,  sugarless 
tea^  the  saltless  rioe;  the  hard-boiled,  bantam-like-  eggs  with 
their  excess  of  sulphiu';  the  sweetish  soft  drinks  of  doubtful 
purity;  and  other  wishy-washy  stuff,  so  devoid  of  stimulating 
properties,  are  not  savory  to  the  foreign  palate.    Acidulous 
fruit  is  delicious  during  the  strenuous  climb,  and  Takaradzuka 
Tanaan  water  with  a  few  drops  of  lemon  juice  sc[ueezed  into  it 
assuages  thirst  and  fortifies  one  as  few  other  things  will.  The 
traveler  should  have  his  own  drinking-cup.  LanCy  Crawford  & 
Co,  at  Yokohama  make  a  specialty  of  mountaineering  outfits, 
and  from  the  manager  of  this  department  one  can  get  informa- 
tion and  advice  of  ^ue.  One's  own  blankets  should  not  be  for- 
gotten if  one  hopes  to  sleep  in  the  anchorite  huts  where  flea- 
invested  straw  mats  take  the  place  of  beds,  and  where  fuUma 
that  have  covered  'a  multitude  of  sins,'  and  have  never  seen 
water,  are  used  by  hundreds  of  pilgrims  each  season.  In  addi- 
tion to  these,  one  should  employ  oiled  paper  in  the  manner 
mentioned  at  p.  xl,  in  connection  with  a  flea-powder  known 
for  its  killinff  qualities.  One  should  bear  always  in  mind  that 
the  cold  at  l£e  summit  is  bitter  throughout  the  year,  and  that 
heavy  wool  underwear  is  a  necessity.  One's  blanket  can  always 
be  used  as  a  cloak,  but  a  good  khaki  coat  that  will  shed  rain, 
warm  gloves,  imd  a  cap  mUl  be  found  serviceable.  Goggles  to 
guard  the  eyes  from  the  glare,  and  a  sauare  or  two  (in  lieu  of  a 
light  rain-coat)  of  the  oiled  paper  used  by  the  natives  to  shed 
the  rain,  serves  not  only  for  this  purpose,  but  also  to  protect 
perishable  supplies  from  the  elements.  High  boots  (those  shod 
with  iron  or  nails  slip  easily  and  are  dangerous),  though  excel- 
lent to  keep  out  sand,  are  clumsy  to  those  unaccustomed  to 
wear  them,  and  are  liable  to  cause  blisters.    Buckskin  mocca- 
sins, puttees  (Hindu,  patti)y  or  4  or  6  prs.  of  straw  waraji  (be 
sure  tney  are  large  enough)  form  the  best  outfit.  Unless  waraji 
are  worn  over  the  ordinary  footgear  the  very  sharp  and  angular 
clinkers  will  ruin  it.   The  *  Pilgrim's  Progress'  up  the  mt.  is 
marked  by  these  cast-off  sandals.    Near  the  foot  of  the  real 
ascent,  at  the  Ko-mitake  Temple  (dedicated  to  Sengen  Samay 
goddess  of  the  mt.)  where  pilgrims  and   coolies  make  their 
orisons,  travelers  can  buy  (20  sen)   of  the  priest  in  charge  a 
stout  staff  {^  kongetsuye')  which  he  will  stamp  (as  will  likewise 
the  priest  at  the  top)  as  a  proof  of  one's  having  reached  the 
summit.  This  Japanese  alpenstock  will  prove  of  as  great  ser- 
vice on  the  upward  trudge  as  on  the  downward  glide.   At 
this  temple  are  sold  also  sanctified  snoods  (excellent  to  pre- 
vent perspiration  from  entering  the  eyes)  supposed  to  possess 
the  virtue  of  warding  off  mt.  sickness. 

The  Ascent.  While  the  common  belief  is  that  July  aivd 
Ang.  ate  the  only  months  in  which  Fuji  should  be  ascended, 
TntmeBome  ^^mhera  go  to  the-  top  even  in  mid^winter  (:not 


50    Rouk  4'        TO  THE  SUMMIT  OF  FUJI-SANT 

reoommended),  despite  the  danger  (cold,  avalanches,  etc.  J  and 
death,  which  sometimes  attend  these  efforts.  The  polioe  make 
a  pretense  of  closing  the  mt.  between  Sept.-July,  and  of  open- 
ing it  officially  about  July  20.  As  long  as  any  snow  clinga  to  its 
crest  it  is  regarded  as  unsafe,  and  whosoever  climbs  it  out  of 
season  does  so  at  his  own  risk.  The  guides  often  refuse  to  ascend 
it  except  in  summer,  and  the  rest-houses  usually  close  in  Sept. 
The  fact  that  the  well-known  TarSbo  Station  (4500  ft.)  on  Uie 
Gotemba  side  was  practically  obliterated  by  an  avtdanche  in 
March,  1912,  and  that  every  year  the  newspapers  record  the- 
death,  by  exposure  or  otherwise,  of  adventurous  persons  who- 
attempt  to  go  up  the  mt.  in  winter,  should  deter  travelerB.. 
Skiers  enjoy  the  ascent  in  winter,  and  at  such  times  one  can*. 
glissade  down  on  a  plank  or  a  straw  mat  (as  the  Mexican  sulphur  - 
workers  do  on  Popocatepetl)  at  a  speed  which  almost  takes: 
one's  breath  away. 

During  the  chmbing  season  between  15,000  and  20,000 
persons  usually  make  the'ascent,  among  them  many  women  70 
or  more  yrs.  young,  who  toil  up  1000  ft.  or  more  each  day, 
and  in  this  painful  fashion  come  eventually  to  the  top.  An- 
ciently they  were  not  allowed  on  the  sacrosanct  summit,  and 
had  to  turn  back  at  the  8th  station.  The  first  foreigner  to 
climb  the  mt.  was  Sir  RtUherfard  Alcockf  H.B.M.'s  liSniBter 
to  Japan,  in  1860.  On  the  mt.  side  one  meets  or  overtakes  scores 
of  whit^lad  pilgrims  (chiefly  rustics)  wearing  mushroom- 
shaped  bamboo  hats  (kasa)j  a  strip  of  matting  tied  to  their 
backs  (to  serve  as  a  bed  and  a  protection  from  the  rain),  several 
pairs  of  extra  waraji  slung  over  their  shoulders,  and  tiny  bells 
aswing  at  their  belts;  these  sweet-toned  kane  tinkle  at  everjr 
step  and  collectively  add  music  to  the  general  joyousness.  As 
the  pilgrims  trudge  slowly  upward  they  occasioiudly  sing  out 
the  Shintd  formula,  Rokkon  shojo  —  *  May  our  six  senses  be 
clean  and  undefiled '  (an  expr^sion  often  chanted  in  Buddhist 
prayers,  and  referring  to  the  six  organs  of  sense:  the  eye,  ear^ 
nose,  tongue,  body,  and  heart).  Some  add  the  words  O  yama 
kaiseij  which,  liberally  translated,  express  the  hope  that  *  the 
weather  on  the  honorable  moimtain  may  continue  fine.'  This 
ringing  call  is  sometimes  flung  far  and  wide  by  enthusiastic 
climbers,  and  the  mt.  sides  echo  to  it. 

Of  the  six  paths  up  the  mt.,  that  from  Svbashiri  is  the  most 
comfortable  and  the  least  difficult  for  foreigners,  and  will  be 
described  in  detail;  the  Sitzukawa-Maruyama  route  was  lon^ 
the  chosen  one  of  pUgrims  coming  from  KySto  and  the  W.,  and 
is  still  known  as  Omoteguchi,  or  *  front  entrance.'  That  from 
Yoshida  is  steep,  while  Gotemba  has  the  disadvantage  of  being 
farther  from  the  actual  base  of  the  mt.  and  requiring  a  longer 
walk  or  horseback  ride  than  from  Svbashiri,  on  the  E.  slope. 
The  b^t  huts  and  the  most  conveniences  will  be  found  on  ™^ 
path,  wbioh  haa  more  shade  on  the  lower  slope.  SvbaMri  can 


TO  THE  SUMMIT  OF  FUJI-SAN       4.  nom.    ». 

abo  be  reached  by  tram  from  (7  M.)  Gotemba,  and  is  1500  ft. 
higher  than  that'  point.  The  traveler  intending  to  visit  Sh5ii 
CRte.  3,  p.  40)  i^ter  making  the  ascent  of  Fuji  can  save  a  Httfe 
time  by  desccmdini;  on  the  Yoshida  side,  or  vi&  Maruyamaj  and 
^ing  to  ShSiji  from  either  of  these  points.  Luggage  should 


^ .  sent  to  the  place  to  which  the  descent  is  to  be  made. — The 
&vbashiri  inns  face  the  car-line  and  are  near  one  another;  at  the 
Yoneyama  a  little  English  is  spoken;  rate,  ¥2.50  and  upward  a 
day.  The  proprietor  will  engage  a  guide  and  be  of  service  to 
foragners. 

Stations  or  rest-houses  in  the  shape  of  solid,  darksome, 
walled  and  covered  dug-outs  are  placed  at  intervals  of  about 
every  1000  ft.  on  the  mt.,  the  divisions  being  called  go.  Of  the 
ten  or  more  of  these  but  a  few  are  prominent.  On  each  of  the 
trails  is  a  station  called  Uma-gaeshi  ('horse  return'),  beyond 
which  horses  customarily  do  not  go,  —  although  they  have 
been  ridden  to  the  sumnut  at  various  times.  The  station  on  the 
Subashiri  side  is  at  a  point  about  4400  ft.  above  the  village 
(api>rox.  7  M.;  under  2  hrs.  walk;  horse,  ¥1),  but  a  horse  may 
be  ridden  without  difficulty  to  station  No.  2  {ni-gd-me;  7560 
ft. J  ¥2;  4  hrs.  walk).  Pedestrians  will  find  the  walk  to  this 
pomt  iharougjbly  delightful,  particularly  in  the  early  morning, 
as  the  trail  Xeaaa  through  a  ferny  forest  where  spnng  flowers 
and  wild  strawberries  are  found  in  Aug.  [It  is  the  part  of  wis- 
dom to  ride  as  far  as  one  can  and  save  the  strength  that  will  be 
demanded  inevitably  before  the  summit  is  reached.]  Much  of 
the  plant  life  for  which  Fuji  is  known  will  be  noticed  on  this 
stretch.  Conspicuous  is  the  Fujimatsuy  or  Fuji  Larch;  Fujiki, 
or  Japanese  Pagoda-tree;  Fujikanso^  or  Telcgraph-pIant;  Fuji- 
bai,  panic  grass;  Fuji-bakamay  thoroughwort;  the  species  of 
wistaria  called  Fujikazura,  and  many  other  plants.  The  cin- 
dery  part  of  the  slope  begins  near  (6430  ft.)  Ko-Mitake  Temple 
(3  hrs.  walk),  and  the  real,  laborious  climb  beyond  No.  4  sta- 
tion (8400  ft.).  At  station  No.  6  (9800  ft.  and  approx.  6  hrs. 
from  Subashiri)  one  is  about  4  hrs.  from  the  summit.  Above 
this  the  ascent  is  decidedly  steeper,  and  the  hard  smooth  rock 
is  in  some  places  covered  with  the  great  blocks  of  lava  which 
bestrew,  and  at  times  obliterate,  the  path.  Whosoever  has  to 
this  point  husbanded  his  strength  by  keeping  to  a  steady,  plod- 
ding grind  will  be  glad,  for  hence  onward  he  will  need  it.  Inter- 
secting the  trail  hereabout  is  the  Chudo  Meguri  ('Midway 
Going-Round  Path'),  a  girdling  road  (about  20  M.  long)  which 
enthusiastic  pilgrims  follow  (7-8  hrs.  walk)  for  the  views  (apt 
to  be  bliured  in  detail  from  the  summit)  and  for  a  more  com- 
plete inspection  of  the  sacred  mt.  and  its  environs.  Near  No.  8 
station  (10,990  ft.)  the  Yoshida  trail  comes  in  from  the  right. 
The  descent  from  the  summit  to  this  point  is  over  the  same 
trail  as  the  ascent,  but  below  it  the  zigzag  path  is  discarded 
and  one  descends  by  long,  sliding  strides  (haahiri)  over  loose 


--    ^^u^  4.        TO  TH^  SUMMIT  OF  FUJI-SAN 

cinders  and  ashes  that  on  a  hot  day  release  clouds  of  fine  dusi. 
A  long-legged  person  may,  in  this  wise,  go  from  the  summitto 
Uma^aeshi  in  about  3  hrs.  It  can  be  done  in  less  than  1  nr. 
sliding  on  the  snow,  but  this  is  not  reconmiended. 

At  the  Summit  (zetcko:  to  climb  to  the  top  of  Fuji  is:  Fwi- 
mn  no  zetcho  made  ndboru)  tJie  rest-houses  at  the  end  of  the 
Svbashiri  trail  stand  in  a  cup-shaped  hollow  near  the  (500  ft. 
deep)  crater.  This  is  about  3  furlongs  in  diameter,  and  Is  sur- 
rounded bv  titanic  crags  scorched  by  awful  heat  into  many 
tints  —  reds,  yellows,  and  purples  predominating.  These  huge 
rocks  follow  the  rim  and  rise  in  some  places  100  ft.  or  more 
above  the  crater's  edge.  Travelers  shoidd  not  venture  beyond 
this  point  unaccompanied  by  the  guide,  as  storms  form  quiddy 
on  Fuji's  summit;  twilight  falls  as  swiftly  as  in  the  tropics;  and 
the  road  is  beset  with  dangers.  The  great  crater  is  remarkable 
and  awe-inspiring;  in  July-Aug.  much  of  the  floor  is  revealed, 
and  is  then  seen  to  be  littered  with  the  huge  stones  that  from 
time  to  time  detach  themselves  from  the  rim  and  fall  with  a 
thunderous  roar.  Snow  lingers  throughout  the  short  summer  in 
the  sheltered  places,  and  lies  deep  in  the  crater  at  other  times. 
*The  chronicles  of  Fuji  show  that  about  70  yrs.  ago,  a  numbmr 
of  pilgrims  were  caught  in  dense  clouds  on  the  mt.  top  and  lost 
their  way.  The  clouds  were  the  preciu«ors  of  a  typhoon,  which 
broke  suddenly  and  with  terrific  violence.  When  it  abated, 
and  the  weather  cleared,  the  frozen  bodies  of  the  pilgrims,  to 
the  number  of  over  50,  were  found  closely  packed  together, 
showing  that  they  had  kept  united  to  the  last  for  warmth  and 
companionship  in  that  dread  hour.  This  is  but  one  instance  of 
the  many  sacrifices  that  Sengen  Sama  (to  whose  shrine  the 
devoteesjcome  to  pray)  has  demanded  of  the  faithful.  The  place 
where  they  died  is  now  called  Sai-no-Kawara  (a  river  shore  in 
the  Buddhist  hell  where  the  souls  of  children  are  torm^ited). 
It  is  covered  with  himdreds  of  stone  cairns  raised  to  the  mem- 
ory of  these  martyrs  by  those  who  follow  more  fortunately  in 
their  footsteps,  and  in  tribute  to  JizOj  the  children's  guardian 
god.' 

Many  of  the  points  round  the  crater  are  of  historic  interest; 
lying  against  the  edge  of  the  rim  at  Kengamine  is  a  little  stone 
hut  where  a  brave  meteorologist  (of  the  name  of  Nonaka)  and 
his  wife  planned  to  spend  the  winter  of  1895-96,  to  make  scien- 
tific observations;  exceptionally  severe  weather  prevailed,  and 
before  the  New  Year  they  were  taken  down  to  the  plain,  al- 
most dead  from  cold  and  exposure.  Near  by  is  a  precipice 
called  Oya  shirazu  Ko  shirazu,  so  dangerous  and  awe-inspiring 
that  in  case  of  peril,  relatives  or  the  best  of  friends  look  out 
for  number  one.  Close  by  is  a  gigantic  rift  in  the  mt.,  called 
Osavoa  {*  great  ravine') ,  which  gashes  it  downward,  on  the  outer 
side,  as  far  as  the  eye  can  see.  Beyond  here  the  path  traverses 
a  section  that  has  been  tortured  into  all  kinds  of  agonizing 


I 


TO  THE  SUMMIT  OF  FUJI-SAN       4.  BotOe.    53 

shapes  by  the  fierceness  of  the  fires  which  once  flamed  from 
Fuji's  h&Birt.  Great  cliffs  lean  over  the  mt.  rim  at  a  perilous 
angle,  and  eeem  ready  to  fall  and  crush  everything  on  the  plain 
below.  Some  of  the  cra^  bear  resounding  names:  'Thunder 
Rode  {Rai4wa):  'The  Rock  Cleft  by  Buddha'  (Shaka  no 
Warvishi);  'Shaka's  Peak'  (Shakorgortake),  etc.  A  great 
stream  of  molten  lava  once  flowed  out  of  the  crater  at  this 
poiat  and  formed  (it  is  said)  the  walls  which  now  inclose  the 
mkes  at  Fuji's  feet.  Below  this  point  is  a  sprine  of  icy  cold 
water  (an  esrtraordinary  thing  at  this  altitude),  called  Kimmeir 
suij  or  'Famous  Golden  Water,'  which  is  sold  by  the  priests  as 
a  specific  for  mt.  sickness.  Beyond  the  line  of  pilgrims'  huts  at 
the  top  of  the  Svbashiri  trail  is  a  precipitous  cliff  called  Kwan- 
nmrgortake  or  'Peak  of  the  Goddess  Kwannon' ;  wisps  of  steam 
come  up  through  cracks  in  the  lava  near  by  and  prove  that 
althougn  Fuji  is  founded  on  eranite,  its  interior  is  perhaps  a 
mass  of  molten  fire.  The  rocks  roundabout  are  warm  to  the 
touch,  and  a  minute  is  long  enough  for  one  to  hold  one's  hand 
against  the  ground. 

While  it  is  yet  dark  the  pilgrims  foregather  at  Kengamine 
to  witness  the  sunrise,  which,  seen  from  here,  is  a  spectacle  of 
transcendental  beauty.  The  silent,  white-clad,  intensely  inter- 
ested figures  add  not  a  little  to  the  impressiveness  of  the  unique 
scene,  as  with  bared  and  bowed  heads,  fingers  clasped  about 
their  rosaries,  and  hands  outstretched,  they  beseech  all  the 
gpds  that  be  in  heaven  to  witness  their  devotion  and  submis- 
sion, and  to  hearken  unto  their  fervent  prayers.  As  dawn 
advances  over  the  cold  world,  and  with  flashing,  rosy  fingers 
lifts  the  veil  of  darkness  from  the  long  file  of  peaks  and  ranges 
standing  like  ffhostly  attendants  behind  the  semi-divine  Fuji, 
the  island-stuaded  sea  becomes  idealized,  and  the  vision,  which 
is  of  vast  extent,  takes  on  a  sublimity  beyond  the  power  of 
words  to  express.  The  sunset  is  almost  as  wonderful  as  the  sun- 
rise. Describing  this,  Herbert  Pouting  says:  'As  I  stood  here 
on  the  utmost  pinnacle  of  Japan,  the  cloudland  sea  was  rising 
slowly  —  borne  upward  in  heaving  billows  by  some  under- 
current, stronger  than  the  wind  above,  which  was  filling  the 
crater  behind  me  with  scudding  wrack.  My  pinnacle  was  soon 
surrounded  to  my  feet  and  no  other  part  of  the  mountain  was 
visible.  I  stood  alone  on  a  tiny  island  of  rock  in  that  infinite 
ocean,  the  only  human  being  In  the  universe,  and  soon  the  illu- 
sion of  being  carried  rapidly  along  in  the  cloud  sea  was  so  real 
that  I  had  to  sit,  for  fear  of  falling  with  dizziness.  When  the 
sun  sank  to  the  level  of  the  surging  vapors,  flooding  their 
waves  and  hollows  with  ever-changing  contrasts  of  light  and 
shade,  the  scene  was  of  indescribable  beauty.  Never  in  any 
part  of  the  world  have  I  seen  a  spectacle  so  replete  with  awe- 
aome  majesty  as  the  sunset  I  witnessed  that  evening  from  t>)ie 
topmast  cubic  foot  of  Fi^i.  A  few  momenta  only  ^e  f^r^ 


64    Rmde  5.        TO  MIYANOSHITA  AND  ATAMI 

lasted.  Then  the  sun  sank  mto  the  cloudland  ocean,  the  snowy 
billows  turned  leaden  gray,  and  darkness  immediately  be^an  to 
fall.  As  the  last  spark  of  the  orb  of  day  disappeuured  in  the 
foaming  breakers  there  was  a  rush  of  wind  across  ihe  crator, 
due  to  the  instant  change  in  temperature,  and  in  a4noinent  the 
mountain-top  was  in  a  tumult.  The  great  abyss  became  a 
cauldron  of  boiling  mists,  and  icy  blaste  moaned  and  whistled 
among  the  crags  which  loomed  like  ominous  moving  phantoms 
in  the  turbulent  vapors  and  dying  light.  It  was  a  wondrous, 
almost  preternatural  spectacle,  like  a  vision  of  Dante's  dream.' 

5.  From  Yokohama  to  Miyanoshita,  Lake  Hakone,  and  AtamL 

Miyanoshita  (1377  ft.),  a  considerably  overrated  summer 
resort  in  the  Hakone  Mts.  40  M.  from  Yokohama,  in  Sagami 
Province,  amid  scenery  far  less  attractive  than  that  around 
many  other  more  accessible  places  in  the  Empire,  owes  its  repu- 
tation less  to  inherent  excellence  than  to  the  reports  of  travefera 
who  have  not  visited  the  more  interesting  IkaOf  Karuizawa, 
KusaisUy  or  Sh^  (consult  the  index);  and  to  the  fact  that 
Yokohama  residents  find  its  elevated  situation  a  change  from 
sea-level  conditions.  The  most  satisfactory  way  to  see  the 
region  is  by  motor-car  (see  below),  as  otherwise  one  has  usu- 
ally to  sit  m  a  tram-car  jammed  to  suffocation  (in  the  season) 
for  upward  of  1 J  hrs.,  and  after  alighting,  walk  or  be  pushed  up 
4  M.  of  steepish mt.  road  to  the  village  beyond.  In  thesummer, 
autumn,  and  during  the  Christmas  hoUdays,  the  hotels  are 
apt  to  be  full,  and  one  not  unfrequently  has  to  lod^  in  stuffy 
little  rooms  in  an  annex  where  indifferent,  tip-solicitine  service 
is  accompanied  by  charges  which  remind  one  of  a  resJly  good 
American  or  English  hotel.  Fujisan  is  the  dominating  feature 
of  the  region  and  without  the  views  of  it — the  object  of  most 
travelers  there  —  it  is  tame.  Being  beautiful,  Fuji  is  corres- 
pondingly capricious,  and  will  sometimes  sulk  for  weeks  behind 
impenetrable  veils  of  mist,  then  perhaps  unveil  for  an  hour  or 
so  Defore  going  into  retirement  for  another  season.  When  it 
does  appear,  far  finer  views  can  be  had  from  Shoji  or  GotemJbOf 
with  the  added  advantage  that  the  latter  place  is  in  immediate 
touch  with  the  rly.  The  traveler  in  search  of  beautiful  mt. 
scenery,  coupled  with  awe-inspiring  volcanism,  will  find  more 
to  please  him  at  Karuizawa,  Ikao,  or  Kusatsu.  The  tonic  air 
in  all  these  places  is  finer  and  more  invigorating  than  that  of 
Hakone. 

Atami,  in  Izu  Province,  on  the  peninsula  of  the  same  name, 
on  the  W.  shore  of  Sagami  Bay,  18  M .  walk  over  the  mts.  from 
Miyanoshita,  is  usuaUy  included  in  a  visit  to  the  latter  place, 
but  its  chief  sight,  the  Atami  Geyser,  grows  more  and  more 
retiring  and  now  steams  up  once  only  in  every  9-10  hra.  Whod 
Jt  does  80  it  is  not  much  superior  to  an  ordinary  locomotive 


EOZU  6.  Route.    55 

Mowing  off  steam,  the  difference  being  that  in  this  case  the  hot 
water  and  steam  are  ejected  from  a  crevice  between  rocks.  The 
sea  views  on  the  way  over  are  not  so  alluringljr  beautiful  as 
those  at  Matsushima,  or  from  the  splendid  hilltops  behind 
Kobe;  nor  is  ^e  village  half  as  delightful  as  the  charming  little 
seaside  resorts  just  W.  of  Kobe  on  the  Inland  Sea.  Both  of  the 
latter  are  nearer  to  the  rly.,  and  in  both  cases  one  has  the 
advantage  of  satisfactory  hotels  as  bases  from  which  to  make 
excursions.  The  Miyanoshita  district  is  not  without  its  attrac- 
tions in  cherry-blossom  time,  but  &ier  displays  can  be  seen  at 
Ky5to,  Nara,  T6ky6,  or  other  more  accessible  places.  Ikeu) 
has  many  more  wild  flowers.  The  vaunted  Ojigoku,  or  Big 
Hell,  is  a  feeble  tea-kettle  affair  not  worth  seeing  if  one  has 
ah-eady  seen  the  violent  volcanic  activity  displayed  about 
Beppu,  Ndboribetauj  or  Kuaatsu.  The  hot  springs  attract  men 
with  the  infirmities  which  the  Hot  Springs  of  Arkansas,  U.S.A., 
are  supposed  to  cure,  and  have  done  so  for  many  years.  Dr. 
Rein,  writing  in  1884,  mentions  'that  the  solfataras  of  the 
region  are  much  used  for  bathing  purposes,  especially  in  ven- 
ereiEj  complaints.' 

Hakone  Lake  suggests  none  of  the  unforgettable  charms  of 
the  gem-like  Haruna;  the  chain  of  beauties  which  one  crosses  to 
reach  Shdji;  or  the  incomparable  Lake  of  Omiy  near  KySto. 

The  customary  way  to  reach  Miyanoshita  is  by  rail  to  29  M. 
K^zu  (Rte.  24),  fare  ¥1,  23  1st  cl.;  74  sen  2d  cL;  thence  by 
tram-cars  of  the  Odawara  Electric  Tramway  Co.  to  8  M. 
Yumoto.  The  remaining  4  M.  are  done  on  foot  or  by  jinriki. 
The  1st  cl.  fare  from  Kdzu  to  Yumoto  (1 J  hrs.)  is  95  sen;  2d  cl. 
63  sen  (to  Odawara  48  and  32  sen  respectively).  Cars  leave 
from  the  tram  terminal  at  the  left  of  the  Tokaido  Rly.  station ; 
luggage  checked  as  on  the  rly.  The  Tramway  Co.  prefers  that 
foreigners  charter  a  special  car  (holds  about  15  pers.;  ¥9,  1st 
cl. ;  ¥7, 2d  cl.)  for  the  trip,  but  as  it  runs  on  the  same  time  as  the 
ordinary  cars  it  merely  obviates  the  necessity  of  riding  packed 
in  with  the  conunonalty.  The  2d  cl.  differs  from  the  first  (from 
which  it  is  divided  by  a  partition  only)  merely  in  the  material 
used  in  the  upholstery.  One  is  as  good  as  the  other  if  the  cars 
are  not  crowded.  Jinrikis  are  in  waiting  at  the  Yumoto  termi- 
nus; to  Miyanoshita  (4M.  uphill,  1  hr.)  with  2  men  (necessary), 
¥1 ;  coolie  to  carry  a  steamer-tnmk  or  several  suit-ciases,  50  sen. 
Heavy  luggage  is  brought  up  on  a  cart  at  about  50  sen  a  piece. 
A  good  walker  can  make  the  ascent  in  less  time  by  taking  sev- 
eral of  the  short  cuts  (shikamachi)  which  lead  up  (left)  of  the 
winding  road,  from  time  to  time,  beyond  TSnosawa  (the  bath- 
ing resort  just  after  Yumoto).  The  best  of  these  short  cuts 
(easily  followed)  is  one  which  turns  inward  about  halfway  up  and 
r^oins  the  main  road  at  the  Fujimitei  Tea-House,  1|M.  bdow 
.ifiyanoehita. 

The  Grand  Hoiel  at  Yokohama  will  arrange  a  motor  trvp 


56    Route  6.  ODAWARA 

(price  quoted  on  application,  and  depending  on  tbe^  number 
in  the  party)  from  tioat  place  to  Miyanoshita,  which  will  enable 
the  traveler  1^  get  a  satisfactory  glimpse  of  the  re^km,  avoid 
the  several  changes  from  rly .  to  trajn,  etc.,  and  be  back  in  Yoko- 
hama the  same  day.  This  is  recommended  as  less  tiring  and 
more  satisfactory  in  many  ways. 

From  Kdzu  (tea-house  opposiie  the  station)  the  tramway 
skirts  the  shore  of  Odawara  Bay  (fine  views  left)  and  passes  at 
intervals  through  the  long  main  streets  of  nondescript  villages. 
Tidal  waves  sweep  in  here  from  time  to  time  and  bring  death 
apd  destruction  in  their  train.  Odawara  (40  min.)  is  prettily 
situated  on  the  sea  amid  orange  groves  and  flowers j  the  ola 
castle  has  withstood  many  a  siege.  The  date  of  its  erection  is  un- 
recorded, but  it  is  known  to  have  passed  into  the  hands  of  Omori 
Yortaki  in  1416,  and  to  have  been  captured  by  Hoj6  S5un  in 
1494.  Uesugi  Kenshin  besieged  it  in  vain  in  1561,  as  did  also 
the  redoubtable  TakedaShingen  in  1573.  The  wily  and  acqui- 
sitive Hideyoshi  attacked  it  with  a  powerful  army  in  1590  and 
captured  it,  coincident  with  the  downfall  of  the  Hoj5.  A  long 
line  of  Tokugawa  shoguns  dwelt  in  it  thereafter,  and  at  the 
time  of  the  Restoration  it  was  the  seat  of  OkubOy  with  an  annual 
revenue  of  116,000  koku  of  rice.  —  The  last  part  of  the  rail 
trip  is  up  the  rock-strewn  valley  of  the  turbident  Hayoffawa, 
overlooked  by  the  twin  humps  of  Futagoyama,  From  Yttmoto 
(Inn:  Fukuzumiy  from  ¥2.50  and  upward;  a  little  Fjnglish 
spoken)  the  road  leads  up  (left)  from  the  station,  through  the 
picturesque  street  of  the  town,  then  over  the  bridge  and  around 
the  corner  (left)  to  Tonosawa.  The  whole  region  is  pink  with 
cherry  blooms  in  early  April.  The  big  power  flume  at  the  right, 
on  the  hill  beyond  Tonosawa,  receives  its  water  from  a  point 
near  Miyanoshita  village  (tunnel  through  the  hills,  along  the 
edge  of  the  ravine)  and  supplies  a  part  of  the  power  employed 
to  light.Yokohama.  The  largest  hamlet  passea  on  the  upward 
trip  is  Ohiradai.  Just  beyond  this  high-poised  place  Miyano- 
shita is  seen  astride  the  main  st..  at  the  nead  of  a  deep  ravine 
which  here  turns  to  the  right  ana  leaves  the  village  perched  on 
the  hill-slope  at  the  left. 

Fujiya  Hotel  (Tel.  address:  * Fujiya*),  English  spoken. 
Rates  from  ¥7  a  day  and  upward,  Am.  pL,  according  to  locar 
tion  of  rooih.  The  best  of  these  (ranging  in  price  from  ¥lO  and 
upwEird  a  day)  are  in  the  main  building,  on  the  second  floor, 
overlooking  the  gorge.  Those  in  the  left  wing  (or  annex)  are 
smaller,  less  desirable,  and  in  some  instances  devoid  of  views. 
—  Books  from  the  library  are  charged  for.  —  Naraya  Hotels 
on  the  edge  of  the  gorge,  with  charming  views;  semi-foreign; 
English  spoken;  rates  from  ¥3  and  upwEird.  There  are  several 
native  Tea-Houses  which  quote  low  rates. 

The  name  Miya-noshita  is  derived  fr6m  Miya,  shrine,  and  Mhita,  Mow;  or 
uodemeath.  The  Hakone  region  is  best  known  for  the  uumeroiui 


KOWAKIDANI  —  OTOME-TOGB  6,  BtnOe.    67 

tamed  from  difftoent  nattre  woods  and  called  Hakone-«nkut  or  Hakone 
Woodworic^  Unfortunately  moat  of  it  splits  and  falls  apart  in  steam-heated 
houses.  Chief  among  the  woods  used  are  the  camphor  laurel  (employed  for 
inl^dnc  because  of  its  silky  luster),  persimmon,  kcyaki,  Japanese  p^per 
(MfuA^ ;  a  species  of  saco  {aoaetmt) ;  black  alder  {kan-no-ki)  etc.  The  waxy 
appearance  of  some  of  the  pieces  is  given  by  putting  them  on  the  lathe  and 
pressing  against  them  a  niece  of  ve^table-waz  (rd).  The  Gampi-ari  sold  in 
some  <H  the  shops  is  made  at  Atami. 

Walks  and  Excursions.  The  neighborhood  is  in  no  way 
remarkable,  and  few  of  the  walks  extolled  in  the  local  guide- 
book in  e^^aggerated  terms  are  worth  tracing  out  unless  the 
traveler  has  nothine  to  do  and  wishes  to  kill  time.  Ladies  are 
apt  to  find  some  of  them  too  rou^h  and  precipitous  for  comfort. 
A  good  walker  can  cover  the  entu«  region  in  2  days  and  include 
the  left-overs  in  the  Atami  trip  on  the  3d  day.  MycHogatake 
(or  Mttkdyama),  the  rounded  hill  (3020  ft.)  beyond  the  gorge 
(E.)  from  Miyanoshita,  offers  no  views  that  cannot  be  obtained 
from  other  places  mentioned  hereinafter,  and  some  scrambling 
b  required  to  reach  the  summit.  This  also  holds  good  with  re- 
spect to  Sengenyama,  the  hill  (2150  ft.)  at  the  S.  of  the  village. 

To   KOWAKIDANI,  GORA,  OjIGGKU,    SeNGOKUHARA,  OtOMB- 

t5ge'  (Maiden's  Pass),  Nagao-t6gb,  Mitagino,  and  Kiga. 
About  16  M.;  7  hrs.  walk.  Coolie  to  act  as  guide  and  porter, 
¥1.80.  Chair  with  4  men,  ¥5.50.  Horse,  ¥3.  Proportionately 
cheaper  to  all  the  places  except  the  4th,  5th,  and  6tn  (the  farth- 
est off).  Miyagino  and  Kiga  are  of  no  interest.  Pedestrians 
bound  for  Gotemba  can  visit  the  first  5  places  en  route  to 
Naqao^dge — the  pass  over  which  walkers  go  to  reach  the 
Gotemba  plain.  —  Nothing  is  gained  by  making  Miyanoshita 
the  starting-point  for  the  ascent  of  Fuji  or  the  trip  to  Shoji^ 
since  the  15  M.  walk  to  Gotemba  can  be  saved  by  taking  the 
rly.  train  from  Yokohama.  —  The  broad  road  winds  over  the 
hills  back  of  the  village  (S.W.).  At  the  bridge  spanning  a  nar- 
row stream  a  short  cut  turns  in,  and  by  following  it  Kowaki- 
dani  can  be  reached  in  25  min.  The  few  houses  cluster  about  a 
ffuntly  volcanic  region  formerly  called  Kojigoku  (Little  Hell  — 
perhaps  on  account  of  its  loneliness),  llie  small  Mikawaya, 
and  KaikcUei  hotels  (English  spoken;  semi-foreign  rooms;  ¥5  a 
day,  Am.  pi.)  stand  near  to  one  another.  The  road  which 
branches  left  goes  to  Hakone  Lake.  That  at  the  right  soon 
crosses  a  rushing  streamlet,  and  at  a  point  where  Miyanoshita 
is  seen  far  below,  enters  a  pine  grove  and  later  traverses  a 
legion  studded  with  cherry  trees  and  Spanish  chestnuts.  At 
(25  min.)  Goro,  a  crossroad  leads  down  the  slope  (right)  to 
Miyagino.  Bearing  to  the  left,  the  clear  trail  follows  the  con- 
tour of  the  hill,  now  up,  now  down,  over  a  district  flecked  with 
many  small  white  flowers  (poisonous)  of  the  wild  rosemary; 
the  shrubs  turn  red  in  autumn  and  develop  narcotic  properties 
injurious  to  sheep.  Entering  a  broken  region  (3478  ft.)  smell- 
ing of  sulphur,  the  road  leads  (35  min.)  to  the  Ojigokh  (<ot 
OmM  dani — 'vaUey  of  the  great  boiling*) ^  so-caUed  irom 


68    HouteS.       NAGAO  PASS  — UMIJIRIil 

the  Bubteiraneous  fires  which  raake  their  ,. 

few  thin  wiaps  of  steam  and  offenaive  gaees.  Hot  ,  , 

to  some  of  ute  native  bath-housea  farther  dawn  the  valliiy. 

On  the  other  side  of  tlic  gorge  a  rough  path  leads  altwg  ibt 
edge  of  the  cliff  to  a  bathing  establishment  frequented  by  iSt- 
ing  natives.  The  road  continues  fltBt  through  the  small  buVJa- 
ment,  then  some  pine  woods,  and  in  10  min.  pa^ee  some  dial- 
low  ponds  (1  min.  to  right  of  path)  ^andiloquently  refemd 
to  as  Natural  Ice  Factortea.  The  hanilet  visible  on  theslopeof 
the  hill  beyond  the  wide  valley  is  Sengukuliara;  the  Boildk 
between  the  lofty  hills  at  the  left  of  it  is  Olome-ioge  {3276  ft), 
whence  one  may  command  a  tine  view  of  Fuji  from  baae  U 
summit;  the  jagged  peak  hehind  the  village  is  Kintoki-m 
(1  hr.  climb).  Before  reaching  the  point  (IJ  hre.)  where  tlie 
path  zigzags  up  the  ateepish  slope  to  the  puss,  one  enters  the 
broad  military  road  constracted  through  the  Hakone  region  is 
1912-13.  By  following  this  iie  it  winds  up  at  the  left  one  comes 
(1  hr.  walk)  to  Nagao  Pass,  at  practically  the  same  elevation 
aa  Olome.  A  briok-lined  tunnel  i  M.  long  leads  through  Iha 
crest  of  the  ridge,  by  climbing  to  the  summit  of  which^ibow 
the  tunnel}  one  may,  while  Iimching,  enjoy  the  magnificent 
prospect  of  the  broad  Gutemba  plain  with  Ftifi  rising  graedl; 
from  it.  Other  splendid  peaks  cut  the  ^cylme,  conspicuoua 
among  them  Shiranesan,  N.W.  of  Fuji,  in  Kai  Proviiwe. 
Hakone  l,ake  is  seen  to  advantage  in  retrospect.  The  pav 
here  is  a  favorite  one  with  motorists,  but  when  the  road  has 
been  newly  metaled  the  sharp  volcanio  stones  employed  an 
"  ""loua  to  rubber  tires.  The  many  pHick-aaimaJa  whidi  cdM 
..._  pass  bring  young  cryptomerias  which  men  of  the  Foresta; 
Bureau  plant  on  the  oald  slopes  of  the  Hakone  Mte.  Got^nbn 
Station,  near  Fuji's  base,  ia  7  M.  distant. 

The  return  journey  can  be  varied  by  descending  (3  M.)  lo 
UmyiH  (about  i  hr.)  at  the  N.  end  of  Hakone  Lake  and  pro- 
ceeding by  boat  (¥1 .50)  to  Moto  Hakone,  thence  to  Miyano- 
shita  over  the  first  stage  of  tbe  excursion  VoAtami,  —  A  ^OtUt 
way  back  is  to  leave  the  military  road  just  below  the  tunnel, 
descend  the  slope,  and  croaa  the  wide  valley  to  the  road  E.  d 
Sengokufaara ;  pheasants  haimt  the  r^on  hereabout  and  rin 
frequently  with  a  gK&t  whirring  of  wings.  Seen  from  below,  tlu 

Eike  takes  on  a  decidedly  grandiose  character ;  it  is  held  in  plan 
ere  and  there  by  massive  granite  embankments,  and  temintli  u 
one  of  certmn  of  the  splendid  highways  in  the  Swiss  Alps.  Ad  T 
hr.  after  leaving  the  pass  one  sees  Ojigoku  at  the  far  right  i. 
Following  the  mihtary  road  through  the  goree  of  the  Hoyfr    I 

Ktwa,  the  nondescript  Miyagino  is  soon  reached,  then  Ktea,  '" 
eyond  which  the  hotel  is  a  10  min.  walk.  The  section  throng  ^ 
wmcb  (he  road  passes  here  is  called  vSofeofcura,  literally  'Bot-  V 
torn  of  the  Storehouse ' ;  in  \hc  deep  T&viBe  s^-Qnci.\«  ^t^  V 
bridge  ia  the  noisy  Jakotsu-ga''"i>  ot  'B:i.Na  tA  ^Xm&x^iecjit 


f 


) 


kiBB,'  80-called  from  a  white  fossil  wood  sometimes  found  and 

di  resembles  dry  bones. 

'o   {Kigaj  Miyagino)    Myohngatakb  and  SaijOji   (or 

yd-^an)  Temple,  and  retmn  yi&  (Sekimoto)  Odawara,  and 

noto.  Jinriki  impracticable.   Coolie  to  act  as  guide  and  I  \\ 

jr  luncheon,  ¥1.80;  to  Sai^dji  and  back  the  same  way, 

36;  one  way  only,  ¥1.  Chair  (with  4  men),  1  way,  ¥4.80; 

«  and  back,  ¥5.40;  return  vi&  Odawara,  ¥7.20;  horse  for 

day,  ¥3.50.  To  Saijcji^  8  M.  Returning  vi&  Odawara^  26 

Tune  for  the  latter  trip  8  hrs.  Horseback  riders  have  to  go 

YcL^razavxi  (2  M.  farther).  Pedestrians  with  weak  hearts 

a  distaste  for  elevations,  who  plan  to  return  the  same  way 

1  SaijiHi,  usually  alter  these  plans  when  by  dint  of  some 

•t  they  have  gained  the  summit  of  Myojingalake  (3820  ft.)  !| 

look  back  upon  the  wicked,  knife-edge  ridges  leading  up 

;.  Waraji  are  a  great  help  on  this  toilsome  and  sometimes  |  j 

)ery  ascent,  as  is  also  a  stout  staff.  A  bottle  of  Tansan  or 

tea  forms  a  grateful  stimulant.  Near  the  actual  summit 

wide  terrace  {dai)  whence  one  gets  a  sweeping  view  of  the 

Iv  Fuji  and  many  of  the  passes  of  the  Hakone  Range;  of 

lofty  mts.  of  Kai  Prov. ;  of  Vries  Is.,  and  the  environing  |{ 

The  Sagami  Peninsula  and  Bay,  Odawara f  and  a  half Hscore 

OBOopic  villages  and  towns  sparkle  in  the  sunlight,  and 

seems  remarkably  near  —  and  apparently  but  a  few  ft. 

at. 

le  road  leads  through  Kigay  crosses  the  river  at  Miyagino^ 

w%  a  stony  path  up  through  the  village,  then  a  rocky  gulch, 

finally  emerges  on  the  mt.  flank;  up  which  one  goes  slowly 

a  broadly  zigzagging  path  whence  fine  views  are  had  in  ^ 

ispect.   A  steady  walker  will  find  himself  on  the  summit  [ 

rs.  after  leaving  the  hotel.   The  worst  is  then  over;  the 

arroyos  which  gash  the  brown  turf  on  the  other  side  of  the 

5  offer  no  difl&culties,  and  the  temple  roof  is  soon  descried 

»elow  at  the  left,  in  its  sacred  grove  of  immense  crjrpto- 

as.   A  long  swinging  stride  down  the  slope  will  bring  one 

e  edge  of  the  grove  in  an  hr.  Conspicuous  features  of  the 

r  depliis  of  the  dark,  cool  ravine  (through  the  bottom  of 

b  a  merry  river  chums  and  gurgles)  are  the  handsome 

-red  berries  of  the  Aoki  (Aucuba  japonica)  shining  from  a 

of  glossy  leathery  green  leaves  mottled  with  yellow.  Here 

ess  violets,  azaleas  (in  season),  buttercups,  PyriLS  japoU' 

md  other  dainty  flowers  remind  one  in  a  small  way  of 

oral  displays  around  Ikao, 

.6  Main  Temple,  called  the  Myokwakw-do,  founded  by 

cm  in  the  14th  cent,  and  now  the  property  of  the  Soto  sect 

iddhists,  stands  on  an  artificial  terrace  reached  by  a  fli^t 

stone  steps  flanked  at  the  top  by  big  bronze  Tengu^  with 

e  Teogo  is  a  mt.  elf  or  hobgoblin  which  is  believed  to  have  been  added 
of  Buddhist  demons  by  the  Japanese.  They  arQ  hun^Ji  t^r 


GO    Haute  5.        SJfiitlMUTO  — TSUKAUAKA 

great  ndses  and  gilded  eyes;  others  of  the  same  dass 
about  the  atrium  and  impart  a  bizarre  and  childish  acq 
the  place. 

The  temple  is  noteworthy  for  the  maze  of  excellent  cf 
in  the  natural  wood  which  cover  almost  all  the  outer  » 
thou^  coarse  in  execution  they  are  not  without  artistic 
phoenixes,  dragons,  birds,  tigers,  panels  showing  Chines 
and  boys  at  play  form  the  chi^  motives.  The  dingy  int 
cluttered  up  with  all 'manner  of  trashy  things;  the  t 
wood  drums  are  used  in  the  temple  festival  (May  28).  Tl 
columns  which  carry  the  elaborately  sculptured  porch 
in  embossed  bronze  sockets  —  at  once  ornamental  and 
tection  against  moisture.  Giant  forest  trees  rise  loftily 
the  structure  and  seem  ready  to  overwhelm  it.  The  hak 
Tooi  is  covered  with  copper-bronze  to  which  time  has  ( 
fine  patina.  Among  the  prayers  offered  with  totemistic  p 
to  the  Tengu  in  the  yard  are  wisps  of  hair  like  scalp-lc 
petitions  against  red  hair  and  baldness.  The  9-petaled  ci 
much  in  evidence  simulate  the  winged  pods  of  Thlaapi  q 
The  big  bronze  Sorinto  near  the  head  of  the  steps  is  su; 
to  be  able  to  ward  off  the  attacks  of  the  Tengu.  Bel< 
temple,  beyond  the  drum-bridge,  are  the  priestly  apart 
picturesquely  situated  amid  cherry  trees  and  tinkling  ri 

Stretcning  N.  from  the  lower  end  of  the  temple  indfosi 
sometime  splendid  avenue  of  tall  cryptomerias,  striking 
that  between  Kami  Sakamoto  and  the  Hiei-zan  templet 
27).  It  leads  to  2  M.  Kano  village,  and  the  quiet  woods 
flank  it  —  fragrant  with  lilies  —  make  an  ideal  place  in 
to  rest  and  enjoy  luncheon.  Thirty  min.  after  quitti 
temple,  one  passes  beneath  the  great  Nid-mon  (with  i 
big  Nid  plastered  all  over  with  spit-ball  prayers),  and 
the  ave.  at  Kano,  By  taking  a  short  cut  here  at  the  rigl 
need  not  go  to  SebimotOf  visible  at  the  left.  The  unruly 
river  which  is  soon  crossed  on  a  wooden  bridge  is  the 
gawa;  extensive  riparian  work  has  been  needed  to  k 
within  its  banks.  Tsukahara  village  is  marked  by  a 
(over  the  Kari  River),  a  big  schoolhouse,  and  a  smglc 
street  (right),  where  one  will  find  a  jinriki-stand  and  a 
baiting-stable;  fare  by  jinriki  to  5  M.  Odawara  (li  hrs.), 
sen;  hasha  in  1  hr.  15  sen.  The  lines  of  suspended  cables 

ures  of  gre^t  size,  with  long  noses,  red  hair,  earrings  such  as  the  Poi 
sailors  wore  when  they  first  came  to  Japan;  a  pillbox  cap  similar  to 
Atkina*8  favorite  headgear,  and  other  un-Japaneae  attributes.  The  i 
and  vulgar  believe  the  Tengu  to  be  foreigners  who,  unable  to  speak 
tive  language,  took  to  the  mountain  fastnesses  —  whither  they  often 
people.  The  fan  usually  pictured  in  the  Tengu'a  hand  resembles  the  < 
uc^itpo;  a  fan  formerly  used  by  military  officers  in  giving  orders,  anc 
posed  to  be  made  of  the  leaves  of  the  cruciferous  TfUaspi  (tnenae^  or 
cress,  the  Japanese  term  for  which  also  is  gumbai-uchiwa  —  abbrevi 
the  illiterate  to  Tengyba. '  To  ^opitiate  these  bloodthirsty  '  foreign 
Japanese  farmers  bring  a  portion  of  their  harvest  to  the  temples  ,cu 
dedicated  to  them  by  the  priests. 


,  and  the  Tbn  Provincb  FAas.  FareBand  diatancee  from 
nnoehita  are:  Kowakidani,  2  M.,  30  mm.;  guide  (coolie), 
m;  return,  45  aen/chair  for  round  trip,  ¥2.80.  —  Ashinoyu, 
.,  1}  hre.,  cocdie,  56  sen;  return,  SO  sen;  chair  both  ways, 
«.  —  Hakone,  7  M,,  2  bre.,  coolie,  80  sen;  return,  ¥1.10; 
r  both  ways,  ¥4.40;  horse,  ¥3.  —  Atami  (4  hra.  beyond), 
f.;  ooolie,  who  will  carry  about  100  Ibe.  of  luggage,  ¥1.90: 
r  ^1.90eftch  for  4  men),  ¥7.60;  horee,  ¥4.50.  A  sm^ 
Ibac  and  one  or  two  packages  can  be  tucked  in  the  space 
tt-  the  seat  of  the  ch^r.  Jinriki  (with  2  men)  practicable  to 
one  only,  as  the  road  beyond  ia  eteepish.  By  leaving 
nnoehita  at  8  a.u.  one  can  (on  foot)  reach  Atami  about  2 

and  allow  )  hr.  stop  for  luncheon.  Tiffin  from  the  hotel, 
ID;  at  the  hotels  in  Hakonc,  ¥1;  cheap>er  at  the  tea-houses 
he  wayside.  Waraji  should  be  worn,  particularly  if  the 
nd  be  wet.  The  mt.  paths  will  be  found  very  slippery  in 
J  weather  —  when  the  views  are  obscured  and  the  trip  is 
ly.  Travelers  bound  for  Yokohama,  etc.,  can  have  heavy 
ige  aent  to  the  KSzu  Station  and  pick  it  up  onlthe  return  to 

pomt  from  Atami.  The  reversed  trip  from  Atami  to 
inoshita  will  be  found  more  difficult  than  the  outward  one 
hich  anji  good  walker  can  make  without  fatigue.  Unlesa 
s ocauainted  with  the  region,  andean  speaka  little  Japan- 
I  oooue  Bbould  be  taken  along  to  act  as  ^uide  and  bearer. 
17  not  be  amin  Xo  mention  that  the  Miyanoshita  chair- 
SB  manifeBtly  work  in  connection  with  the  keepers  of 


62    RmdeB.       HAKONE  LAKE  AND  VILLAGE 

enveloped  in  a  steamy  mist  which  adds  to  the  melancholy  — 
derives  its  name  from  the  hot  springs  (yu)  which  issue  from  a 
reedy  plain  {aahi)  near  by.  A  smell  of  fetid  eggs  pervades  the 
place  and  advertises  the  sulphmY)us  nature  of  tlie  waters  — 
which  run  in  yellow  streams  across  the  roadway.    Mattnusaka 
Hotel;  Kii^no^Kuni  Hotelj  both  small,  with  sulphur  baths; 
rates  from  ¥5  and  upward  a  day.  —  The  highroaa  le«ds  rigjit 
through  the  settlement  and  soon  comes  to  3  moss-grown  tombs 
(left)  which  conmiemorate  Soga  Svkenari  and  Soga  Tohmfune^ 
brothers  and  12th  cent,  military  heroes  (often  mentioned  in 
poetry  and  romance).  The  chiseled  images  at  the  right  of  the     '■ 
road  here  are  not  worth  looking  at;  neither  is  the  stone  mon-     - 
ument  (right)  near  the  bank  of  a  wretched  pond,  erected  to  the    s 
memory  of   the   Minamoto  shogun,  Mitsunaka  (912-97).    A    - 
few  yards  beyond  this  (left),  slightly  higher  than  the  rc^way.    « 
is  a  contemptible  petroglyph  in  the  form  of  a  big  Jizd,  ranked  -I 
by  an  enthusiastic  writer  among  the '  triumphs  of  the  Japanese   ^ 
chisel/  and   just   as  loosely  attributed   to  the  overworked   -I 
Kcbo-Daisld.  The  trend  of  the  path  now  is  downward  between    -^ 
volcanic  hills;  Hakone  Lake  soon  comes  into  view,  then  Moto  ^ 
Hakone,  on  the  lake  shore. 

Hakone  Lake  (2378  ft.)  known  also  as  Aahirko,  a  clear  sheet  of  water  Z\  '*■ 

M.  long,  I M.  wide,  and  about  150  ft.  deep,  is  circled  by  half-bare  vidoanio  ^ 

mts.  of  which  the  tallest  is  Koma-ga-4ake  (Pony  Peak,  4452  ft.)  at  the  E.  - 

The  lake  is  near  the  border  line  of  Suruga  Province,  and  is  drainea  ch&efly  by  "^ 

the  Hayagawa,  which  flows  out  of  its  N.  end,  and  after  a  roundabout  oourse  ^ 

goes  through  Mivanoehita  and  falls  into  Odavoara  Bay.  The  distuice  along  "^ 

the  E.  shore  to  Umijirit  the  hamlet  at  the  topmost  point,  is  5  M.;  thenoe  to  ^ 
Nagao-toge  about  3  M. 

Following  the  road  which  skirts  the  lake  we  soon  pass  (right)     * 
the  pretentious  Imperial  Summer  Villa,  within  a  fenced  and    ^ 
guarded  preserve  (no  admittance)  on  a  promontory  overlook-    ^ 
ing  the  lake.  The  Matsuzaka  Hotel  hereabout  is  semi-foreign;    '• 
rates  from  ¥5  and  upward  a  day.   The  broad  avenue  is  now 
shaded  by  flanking  files  of  magnificent  and  lofty  cryptomerias, 
after  the  style  of  those  at  Nikko.   Fuji  is  seen  at  the  far  right, 
rising  over  the  saddle  formed  by  the  Nagao-toge,    Hakonb 
Village,  a  down-at-the-heel,  old-fashioned  place,  on  the  S.B. 
side  of  the  lake,  has  but  little  to  recommend  it  —  unless  one 
is  seeking  absolute  quiet.  The  Hakone  Hotel  (Hafvrya),  rates 
from  ¥5  and  upward,  and  several  lonely  inns  stand  on  llie 
beach,  waiting  for  the  few  travelers  who  come  this  way  only 
in  summer.  It  is  an  easy  ^  hrs.  walk  hither  from  Miyanoshita, 
and  4  hence  to  Atami.       ? 


During  the  Tokugatoa  epoch  the  now  decayed  and  decadent  Hakons 
an  important  station  on  the  old  Tdkaidd  between  the  new  capital  of  Yedo 
and  the  old  one  of  Ky5to.  Toyotomi  Hideyoshi  marched  past  hoxe  in  IfiOO 
when  he  assailed  the  Odawara  Hdjd  in  their  castellated  fortress,  and  in  later 
times  many  a  glittering  daimyd  train  stoiH>ed  here  to  hold  high  leydi  in  tbt 
tea-houses  overlooking  the  storied  lake.  At  that  period  the  old  Hahont  n» 
aekiaho,  or  'barrier,'  established  for  the  surveillance  of  travelers,  itood  at 
the  paaa  Juat  west  df  the  village,  to  the  terror  of  malefacton  and  tibe 


TPEN  PROVINCE  PASS      5.  RatUe,    63 

• 

iie§8  of  poEtieal  maleontentB  and  refugees.  Here  was  located  the  JTiran,  or 
^te,  the  important  border  post,  which  had  to  be  passed  on  entering  the 
Awantd  region,  or  used  in  gcnng  in  the  other  direction  toward  the  Kutoansei. 
The  old  highroad  has  now  lost  its  mediseval  and  military  character,  and  for 
the  latter  purpose  has  been  supplanted  by  the  new  gov't  road  Which  leads 
through  the  gorge  of  the  HauagatM  and  over  the  Naoao-46ge.  The  highest 
peaJc  of  the  Hakone  Mts.  is  Kamirj/ama,  4700  ft. 

At  the  far  end  of  the  village  the  road  turns  sharpljr  up  at 
the  left,  away  from  the  lake;  henceforward  jinrikis  are  unprac- 
ticable,  owing  to  the  steepness  of  the  paths.  A  stiff  20  min. 
climb  brings  one  to  the  crest  of  the  ridge,  whence  there  are 
:£ne  views  in  retrospect.  From  the  summit  of  the  big  rounded 
JCurakake-yama  (3300  ft.),  about  i  hr.  at  the  left,  views  finer 
«ven  than  those  from  the  Ten  Province  Pass,  6  M.  beyond,  are 
obtainable.  Until  that  point  is  reached  the  trail  ascends  and 
descends  gently  over  a  vast  upland  plain  or  wide  ridge  with 
^ews  so  far-reaching  ^d  grand  that  one  feels  as  if  one  wer^ 
^^aUdng  over  the  roof  of  the  world;  it  is  a  vast,  silent  world, 
^^here  only  an  occasional  grass-cutter  is  seen,  and  from  which 
^>ne  looks  down  into  stupendous  valleys  equally  silent  and 
unpeopled.  A  cold  wind  blows  steadily  across  the  top,  bring- 
ijig  coolness  in  summer  and  a  searching  chill  in  winter.  Fuji 
Is  the  dominating  figure  in  the  seemingly  limitless  landscape. 
|Brelong  a  solitary,  blasted  old  crvptomeria,  the  Ippon  Sugi, 
Ls  sighted,  with  a  stone  idol  at  its  base;  and  from  it  the  sea  is 
Cnsible  at  the  far  left. 

A  huge  stone  marks  the  Ten  Provincb  Pass  or  Jikkokvridge, 
^3200  ft.) which  instead  of  being  a  pass  between  mts.  is  merely  a 
:Dig  rounded  hilltop,  whence  the  mts.  (provided  the  day  be  crystal 
i^lear)  of  10  provinces  (Suruga,  Sagami^  Izuy  Tdtomi,  Kai,  Awa^ 
Kcustisaf  Shimosa,  Musashiy  and  Kotsuke)  may  be  seen.  Fuji- 
^an  is  again  the  dominating  feature.  Most  beautiful  of  all  is 
—he  province  of  Neptune,  which  stretches  far  below  to  a  hori- 
zon as  distant  as  that  of  optimistic  youth.  Atami  is  hidden  by 
^  bend  in  the  ridge.  Proceeding  across  the  mt.  tops  we  soon 
^nter  a  region  where  the  vegetation  shows  the  effect  of  a  S. 
Exposure;  here  the  bell-like  flowers  of  Campanula  japonica,  wild 
i^olets,  and  a  half-score  flowery  forms  bloom  unappreciated 
^nd  unseen.  A  short  descent  brines  one  to  a  small  terrace 
Cleft)  on  which  a  decayed  temple  and  a  tea-house  stand ;  hence 
blie  slope  downward  is  sharp  and  the  path  winding ;  at  times  it 
'  ^Dses  its  identity  and  degenerates  into  a  V-shaped  gully  very 
slippery  in  wet  weather.  The  campfeor  tree  at  the  right  of  the 
gkatn  in  the  upper  outskirts  of  Atami  is  uncommonly  large. 
The  way  is  now  down  through  the  main  st.  of  the  town,  past  the 
geyser  (right)  to  a  terrace  at  the  left,  overlooking  the  sea, 
"Where,  in  a  pretty  garden,  stands  the  Atami  Hotel j  with  stuffy 
rooms,  poor  food,  and  rates  from  ¥6  and  upward  per  day. 
THiie  upper  rooms  are  more  expensive  than  those  on  the  gcouwd 
floor.  All  are  two  or  three  timess  as  dear  as  those  of  the  iia\AN^ 


64    RotOeS.        ATAMI  AND  THE  GEYSER 

« 

hotel  in  the  same  yard  and  under  the  same  management.  To 
prevent  discussion  at  the  last  moment  the  traveler  had  better 
come  to  a  clear  understanding  with  the  proprietor  before  eft- 
gaging  rooms.  There  are  several  native  inns,  chief  among 
them  the  Takasagoya  Hotel;  ¥3  and  upward. 

Atami  nestles  cosily  in  a  little  V-shaped  valley  which  reaches 
back  into  the  hills  from  the  sea  and  Sagami  Bay,  on  the  E. 
edge  of  the  Izu  Peninsula,  in  Izu  Province.  It  is  embowered 
in  orange  groves,  camphor  trees,  and  many  flowers,  which 
like  the  warm  exposure  and  bloom  riotously.  The  low  wooded 
island  offshore  is  Hatsushima;  Oshima  is  visible  (at  the  S.E.) 
on  a  clear  day,  and  sometimes  at  ni^t  the  heavens  reflect 
the  fires  of  its  active  volcano.  The  chief  sight  of  Atanni  is  thei 
failing  Geyser  {Oyuj  or  *big  hot  water'),  the  largest  of  it 
kind  m  Japan.  It  has  existed  for  centuries,  but  was  unknow 
to  foreigners  until  Sir  Rutherford  Alcock^  Great  Britain's 
first  Minister  to  the  Mikado's  Court,  visited  Atami  (con 
memorative  monument)  in  Sept.,  1860.  Dr.  Rein,  wrii  _ 
in  1884,  mentions  the  geyser  as  breaking  forth  at  regular  in- 
tervals  six  times  in  24lirs.,  on  each  occasion  for  1 J  hrs,  n 
rising  to  a  height  of  3-9  ft.  The  sinking  of  many  weUs  (no^ 
prohibited)  to  the  underlying  volcanic  vein,  and  the  tappii  _ 
(for  baths  and  other  purposes)  of  the  hot  stream,  has  so  weak- 
ened the  geyser  that  now  it  spouts  but  once  every  9-10  hra., 
first  a  quantity  of  steam  accompanied  by  a  sound  of 
boiling,  lasting  sometimes  for  i  hr.,  then  a  gush  of  hot  water^i* 
This  is  repeated  4  or  5  times  in  an  hr.,  weak  at  first, 
stronger.  At  this  time  steam  issues  from  many  crevices 
the  rocks  throughout  the  town;  from  the  steam-pipes  ove^^^'*'^ 
which  some  of  the  people  boil  their  food;  from  betwe^i  tht-»»  -^ 
cobbles  in  the  sts. ;  and  from  the  various  bath-houses  directl] 
connected  with  the  underground  stream.  The  effect  is 
and  on  a  wet  day  when  the  vapor  hangs  low,  is  deddediy  sug^-": 
gestive  of  a  re^on  warmer  and  less  satisf^ang  than  Japan 
A  thermometer  in  the  adjoining  bath-house  inmcates  the  ai 
proach  of  the  eruption,  which  sounds  like  the  blowing-off 
a  big  locomotive  or  an  ocean  liner.  Instead  of  rising  verti — - 
cally  the  steam-saturated  water  now  jerks  out  horizontal!] 
through  a  jagged  hole  in  the  rocks  flush  with  the  ground  anc 
impinges  on  a  stone  wall  5  ft.  thick,  about  6  ft.  from  the  ape^-' 
ture;  an  iron  railing  separates  it  (no  fees)  from  the  main  '  " 
The  house  behind  it  is  much  frequented  by  tuberculous 
tives,  who  inhale  the  hot  vapors  believing  that  they  hai 
curative  powers.   The  Japanese  believe  that  the  ejected  mat 

ter  comes,  not  from  the  ground  immediately  beneath  Atami -» 

but  from  the  lofty  mt.  behind  it. 


According  to  Bunaen,  these  hydrothermal  maiufestatioQS  are 
ezploaive  action,  due  to  the  heating  of  the  water,  under  pressure*  in  tbt 
psurt  of  the  geyser-tube,  fiunsen's  theory  rests  on  the  accepted 


.YOBOBIMk  ^TO  IXnakTA      e^RmOi.   « 


-the  iMfliic  pgiB*«f  fri4*  laowrtM  wHh  piwnin  uii  that  tiM  be^^ 


_ thatt atths top.  whm 

iM  an^d  ami  oitartalBad  a*  tfaa  bottom  of  mwh  a  tabe.  tfaa  haatod 
r  aecinina  afl«r«4lma  ahatia  fane  auffioisnt  to  ovenome  toe  wai^t  of 
'tiM  auparinfeniBbenfe' nalw;  and  tfaa  leliof  from  eomrreiion  during  the 
«8oeiit:  18  eo  great  that  attain  ia  genecated  rapidhr,  and  to  siioh  an  amoont 
'that  it  ejeeta  ykieiitly  from  the  tobe  much  of  the  water  it  ocntaina.  The 
^tami  g^rtr  Is  aiVgngreompaiad  to  thoee  of  the  YeUowetooe  Park,  and  it  ia 
itttefleatiligiii  »  way  tfaaB  the  oonatantljr  boiUng  spiingB  of  Beppu  or 


Jf oboribetau.  The  gajwa  wattr  eontaina  aocuum,  magneeia,  oaldum,  iron, 
.and  allied  aabataaeea.  The  mAtrm  believe  it  euree  afanoat  ereiything. 


A  local  specialty  is  the  gampiahi,  a  thin  but  tough  paper 
ODoade  of  the  fiber  of  Edgeworthia  papyr^era  (Japanese  mitsur- 
Tmaia),  From  it,  and  from  silk  of  the  wild  eolkwonn,  is  made 
^tbe  gampiH)rif  a  waahaUe  fabric  resembling  coarse  pongee 
-which  is  converted  into  cushion-covers  (40-50  sen  eacn)  and 
SDoaziy  articles  of  sin^ilariise.  The  many  turned-wood  toticles 
^ar  sale  in  the  shopi  are  made  in  local  workshops.  A  favorite 
asweetmeat  (ame)  m  made  of  limes  and  oranges.  The  mosft 
important  of  Hie  local  induJBtries  is  fishing.  At  times  laige 
«cliools  of  various  deep-sea  fijsh  enter  the  Eay  and  throw  the 
^wn  into  great  excitement.  Lookouts  (tSmt)  are  stationed 
^n  the  highest  promontories,  and,  when  a  school  appears  in 
%lie  bay  the  fisbsor^ien  are  apprised  by  means  of  a  primitive 
^Donch  me^i^bone  (Aora^no-Aiai};  the  huge  nets  employed  re- 
quire a  dozen  men  to  manipulate  them.  Sometimes  a  hundred 
^aaen  in  a  sobire.  c^  boats  reap  a  valuable  piscine  harv^t, 
10,000  or  mcne  pluihp  huri  .(amber-fish)  being  taken  in  one 
:jforeno6n.  There  are  a  number  of  pretty  walks  in  the  neigh- 
^l>orhood  of  Atami.  Motorists  oft^  come  down  from  Yoko- 
^ftTTia.  for  the  sea  views. 

From  Atami  to  Odawara  (thence  to  Kdzu  and  Yokohama). 
A  li^t  rly.  makes  the  20  M.  run  along  the  pictiu-esque  coast 
in  about  2i  hra.  (fare,  ¥1.29,-  2d  cl.  —  no  1st  cl.).  A  heavier 
lAy.  line  is  under  contemplation.  The  Atami  jinriki-men 
^lemand  15  sen  for  the  5  min.  run  {i  M.)  from  the  hotel  to  the 
station.  The  stuffy  little  cars  are  medisval  in  design  and 
•comfort,  but  the  views  from  them  over  Sagami  Bay  are  lovely. 
<i;oiispicuous  among  the  nondescript  little  stations  is  Enoura, 
-with  a  charming  little  bay  and  beach  —  the  delight  of  artistic 
Japanese.  Oanges  and  many  flowers  flourish  on  the  hill- 
slopes.  The  terminal  station  is  near  that  of  the  tramw^ 
Ijetween  Kdzu  and  Yumoto  (Miyanoshita).  The  district 
Ihence  to  Kdzu  and  Yokohama  is  included  in  Ete.  24. 

6.  From  Yokohama  vid  Tdky5  to  Karuizawa,  Nagano, 
Naoetsu,  and  Niigata  (Sado  Island). 

Shhi-etatt  Line  of  the  Ifl^erial  Gorenunent  Railways. 

To  Karuvsaioa.  105  M.;  several  trains  daily  in  about  5  hxa.  (consult  the 
li^t'tbae-card).  Fare,  ¥3.85,  let  d.; ¥2.31,  ad  cl.  To  NHoata,  7»^yi.\xL 
tStmt  16  hrs.  Fare,  ¥7.90, 1st  oL;  4F4.74,  2d  eL  Certain  ol  ibA  UvJooa  am 


66    Route  6,  YOKOHAMA  TO  NHGATA 

compofled  of  2d  and  3d  d.  oani  only.  Good  berUd  (p.  Izzziv)  m  sold  at  nml 
of  the  large  stations,  along  with  hot  milk  and  the  specialties  for  wbidti  aome 
of  the  towns  are  known.  The  water  at  the  wash-stands  on  the  stetion  pla^ 
forms  is  not  to  be  drunk.  The  scenery  in  the  mountainous  distiiota  is  nr  ~~* 
ficent  and  is  similar  to  that  on  the  Central  line,  Rte.  25.  The  ^.  tnv 
the  provinces  of  Sagami,  Musashi,  Shimdsa,  and  Kotsuke,  and  after  on 
the  wild  and  splenmd  upland  province  of  Shinano,  runs  along  the  ooaat 
the  Japan  Sea  through  tiie  rich,  remote,  and  rugged  Echigo  (called  the  pro- 
vince of  Snow)  with  its  little  known  and  little  traveled  routes,  (hi  the  Kami* 
zawa  highlands  the  rly.  skirts  the  base  of  Asama^yama,  Japan's  moat  active 
and  vicious  volcano,  and  affords  inspiring  views  of  its  smoking  oone.  Travel- 
ers bent  on  sight-seeing  can  board  a  ship  at  Niigata  for  Yezo  at  the  N.,  or  for 
any  of  the  Japan  Sea  ports  at  the  S.W.  Sado  Island  is  but  a  bri^  asu  from 
Niigaia,  whence  one  may  also  cross  to  Koriyama  on  the  Main  Line  to  Aomari 
(Rte.  18),!  and  either  proceed  N.  from  there  or  return  S.  over  a  differani 
route.  At  Naoetsu  connections  can  be  made  with  the  W.  Coaat  Route  to 
Kyoto  and  points  thereabout;  and  at  Shinonoi  with  trains  over  the  masnift- 
eently  scenic  Central  line  to  Nagoya.  The  entire  region  is  interestang  and  ia 
yet  unspoiled  by  too  much  progn^ess.  At  a  point  between  Kcaruigawa  and 
Miyoda  stations  a  mountain  pass  3234  ft.  is  crossed,  the  2d  higheat  *  ' 
reached  by  a  Japanese  rly.   The  26  tunnels  of  the  Usui  Pom  are 

throughout  Japan  for  theur  picturesqueness.    For  the  comfort  of  tL 

electno  engines  are  now  attached  to  the  train  at  Tunnel  No.  1  whence 
haul  the  cars  over  the  pass,  without  smoke  or  dust. 

The  rly.  from  Yokohama  to  Tokyd  is  described  at  p.  107.^—  "• 
Thence  to  Takasaki  trains  run  over  the  Takasaki  section  of^fc^^ 
the  North-Eastern  Line  (of  the  Imperial  (jOv't  TTttti  )^^^  ] 
through  a  level  countiy  delimned  at  the  S.  by  Fvjinsan 
the  lofty  mts.  of  Kai_ Province;  and  at  the  N.  by  the 
Nikko  Ran^e.  16  M.  Omiya  Jet.  is  the  station  where  travels 
bound  to  Nikko  and  the  N.  change  cars;  there  is  a  refreshment 
room  on  the  platform  where  hentOj  sandwiches,  hot  milk.  an( 
pots  of  tea  are  sold  at  reasonable  prices.  33  M.  Fukioffs  is  the— ^^ 

starting-point  for  (3i  M.;  jinriki,  70  sen,  round  trip)  Yoahind 

mura^  which  has  some  curious  artificial  caves,  cut  out  of 
friable  sandstone  of  a  hill-slope  and  thought  by  some  to 
served  as  the  homes  of  an  ancient  people  known  to  the  Jaf. 
anese  as  Tsuckt-gumo,  or  *  earth-spiders.*  There  are  abony^  — ^ 
200  of  these  ill-smelling  holes,  cruder  even  than  the  cliff — -  " 
dwellings  of  the  S.W.  of  the  United  States.  From  48  M.  Kuma — =5" 
gaya^  trains  of  the  Jobu  Rly,  Cg.'s  line  branch  off  to  the  lef»^  ^ 
and  run  S.  to  14  M.  Hakure.  A  considerable  trade  in  silk  if 
carried  on  at  Kumagaya,  where  there  are  several  factories 
Noticeable  features  of  the  region  are  the  tre^hedges,  15-20  ft- 
high,  which  surround  many  of  the  houses.  Good  views  of 
mts.  at  the  right.  The  clean-looking  country  with  its 
groves  of  slim  pine  trees,  recalls  certain  parts  of  New  England 
44  M.  Fukaya  has  a  number  of  silk-  and  cotton-mills, 
observant  traveler  will  note  that  the  tile-  and  pottery-ki] 
here  and  farther  along  the  rly.  are  always  built  on  the  sloi 
of  a  hillock,  a  nest  of  6  or  more  ovens  being  strung 
under  a  single  sloping  roof  in  order  to  economize  heat  an( 
produce  a  draft.  On  a  clear  day  Asamoryama  may  be 
smoking  furiously  on  the  horizon  (right).  The  mt.  range 
tber  to  the  right  is  that  of  Haruna, 


m.  TAKASAKI  6.  Route.    67 

Takasaki  (406  ft.;  pop.  40,000)  in  Gumma  Prefeo- 
•tsuke  Province,  contains  a  number  of  silk-mills  and 
kery  that  supplies  the  surrounding  country  with  loaf 
Inn:  Takasahir-kwan,  opposite  the  station;  ¥2  and 

rt  rly.  (Rydni5  Line)  which  runs  hence  (£.)  to  67  M.  Oyama  (fare, 
cl.;  ¥1.40,  2d  d.;  frequent  trains),  a  jet.  on  the  N.E.  LiNK'(Rte. 

1  the  shortest  route  to  Nikkdj  etc.,  for  travelers  approaching 
Irom  the  W.  Most  of  the  wayside  towns  are  unimportant.  7  M. 
Inn:  Shiroiva,  ¥2;  Togokan  HoUsl,  ¥4),  with  46,000  inhabs.,  io  the 
KOtsuke  Province  and  Gumma  Prefecture,  and  is  one  of  the  mott 
silk-markets  in  the  country.  The  Kiryu  Fabric  School  is  of  inter- 
e  concerned  with  sericulture.  A  tramway  runs  from  a  point  near 

to  (10  M.)  Shibukawa,  where  connections  are  made  with  the  Nne 
to  Ikao  (p.  87).  The  rly.  which  goes  toward  the  S.W.  runs  to  21 M. 
with  an  iron  mine. 

TakcLsabi  the  rly.  climbs  at  once  into  the  hills,  crossing 
Karasu-gaway  then  the  Shimo  Usut-gaxoa,  both  €» 
lave  necessitated  costly  riparian  work  to  confine 
their  rocky  beds.  The  narrow  valley  here  is  pictur- 
id  the  houses  have  their  roofs  held  down  by  a  multi- 
F  stones.  The  ventilating  holes  under  the  ridge-poles 
that  the  peaked  lofts  are  breeding-places  for  silk- 
Pollarded  mulberry  trees,  the  leaves  of  which  the 
ve  on,  are  conspicuous  features  in  the  landscape.  73 
,  a  poor  town,  has  mineral  springs  which  attract  the 
The  oizarre  mt.  peaks  visible  on  the  S.  (leit)  skyline 
.e  a  part  of  Mydgi-sarij  the  starting-point  for  whidi 
f  77  M.  Matsuida  (Inn:  Hiahiyaf  ¥2),  a  station  near 
i  Usui  River. 

ip  of  Jagged,  spire-like  peaks  are  known  collectively  as  MyOgi-Mn, 
terhape  namea  for  a  celebrated  abbot  of  the  Hiei-ean  Monaatery 
'ho  came  hither  in  the  10th  cent,  and  was  deified  under  the  title  of 

Gongen.  Individually  they  are  called  Hakuun  (*  White  Clouds  '), 
jolden  Cave'),  and  Kinkei  ('Golden  Pheasants').  Originally 
an  ancient  volcano,  they  have  been  corroded  by  time  and  the  ele- 

curious  shapes,  now  covered  to  their  highest  point  (about  3800 
reen  vegetation.  On  the  side  of  the  first-named,  a  short  walk  up 
illage  nestling  on  its  flank  (2}  M.  from  Matsuida;  jimiki,  75  *en 
trip),  embowered  in  a  grove  of  noble  cryptomerias,  is  a  Shintd 
.cated  to  Yamato  takeru  nomikoto  (see  p.  68) ,  3d  son  of  the  Em- 
*.  The  natural  stone  arches  accessible  by  means  of  iron  cables, 
sque  environs;  and  the  fine  autumnal  tints  attract  many  Tdky5 

Matsuida  the  rly.  follows  the  right  bank  of  the  river 
oaches  a  highly  .interesting  portion  of  the  line.  The 
highway  is  practicable  for  motor-cars.  Many  of  the 
ave  brick  instead  of  granite  abutments.  Beyond  80 
gawa  (1364  ft.)  the  line  begins  its  stiff  climb  over  the 
?,  a  difficult  stretch  of  road  but  7  M.  long,  but  which 

2  yrs.  to  complete.  The  work  necessitated  engineer- 
jf  no  ordinary  kind;  rocky  mts.  had  to  be  cut  away, 
lied  up,  steep  gradients  introduced  on  reverse  exxrvea^ 

rick^med  tunnels  with  an  aggregate  leugtih  oi  14,^^4 


68    Route  6,  EARUIZAWA  Aaamoifama, 

ft.  cut  upward  through  the  pass.  The  riskiest  of  the  18  bridges 
(which  have  an  aggregate  length  of  1471  ft.)  spans  the  Uswr 
gawa  between  the  5th  and  6th  tunnels :  it  has  4  W^^  of  60 
ft.  each,  and  is  supported  on  brick  arches  (2,200,000  bricks) 
that  rise  110  ft.  above  the  river-bed.  Until  quite  recently  the 
Aht  system  (cog-wheels  working  in  grooved  rails)  was  em- 
ployed, but  electric  traction  engines  (Grerman;  3d  rail  eystem; 
direct  current)  have  been  introduced.  The  power-house  on  this 
side  of  the  pass  stands  on  a  low  terrace  near  the  river  edge, 
above  the  Yokogawa  Station;  an  auxiliary  station  stands  just 
beyond  the  pass,  near  the  Yagasaki  Block  Station.  The  fleeting 
glimpses  that  one  gets  of  the  raging  river  as  it  tears  throufpE 
the  gorge  far  below  are  fine.  In  some  places  the  gradient  is  1 
in  15;  No.  6  is  the  longest  (1791  ft.)  of  the  tunnels.  No.  26 
is  1419  ft.  long. 

On  emerging  from  the  Usui  tunnels  the  train  passes  out 
of  Kotsuke  Province,  and  over  the  threshold  from  the  low- 
lands of  the  Ktoantd  to  the  highlands  of  Shinano;  from  the 
mild  and  fertile  region  in  which  the  Tokugawa  shdgtms  ac- 
quired their  strength  and  built  the  Empire,  to  the  rough,  oold, 
mountainous  interior,  so  little  known  to  foreignersj  yet  so 
worthy  of  being  known.  Japanese  familiar  with  the  history  of 
their  country  associate  the  Usui  Pass  with  Yamato  uake 
(* warrior  prince')  or  Yamatotakeru  no  mikoto,  a  famous  hero 
and  military  genius  of  the  olden  times  (a.d  81-113).  At  the 
age  of  16  he  was  ordered  to  suppress  a  rebellion  in  KytkshQy 
which  he  did  by  disguising  himself  as  a  woman  and  entering 
the  apartment  of  the  chief  of  the  rebels  and  slaying  him.  His 
several  campaigns  led  him  as  far  N.  as  Mutsu  Pirovmce,  where 
he  repeatedly  fought  the  Ainu.  He  died  at  32,  but  lives  in  the 
hearts  of  the  people  as  the  conqueror  of  the  Kioantd,  that 
vast  region  E.  of  the  Hakone  Pass;  between  T5ky5  and 
NikkS;  and  between  Usui4dge  and  the  Pacific  Ocean.  This 
district  is  often  referred  to  as  Adzumirkuni  ('Country  of 
my  wife')y  a  designation  referring  to  the  lament  of  Yamato 
Dake  over  the  loss  of  his  beloved  wife  Taehibanarhimef  who, 
on  the  passage  across  Yedo  Bay,  flung  herself  overb^uxl  in 
order  to  mollify  Kompira  (Neptune)  and  to  secure  for  her 
husband  a  prosperous  landing  on  the  Kazusa-Awa  Penin- 
sula. —  For  a  continuation  of  the  journey  beyond  Karuizawa 
see  p.  76. 

87  M.  (from  T5kyo)  Karuizawa  (3180  ft.),  a  small,  scat- 
tered town  (see  the  map  opposite  p.  87)  just  ipver  the 
border  in  Shinano  Province  (Nagano  Prefecture),  one  of  the 
most  popular  of  the  Japanese  mil-stations,  is  noted  for  its 
fine,  cool,  healthful  air;  its  many  wild  flowers,  splendid  views, 
and  its  proximity  to  the  ever-grouchy  Asamd-j^amaf  Ja^pan's 
busiest  volcano.  It  is  the  favorite  summer  meeting-^laoe 
for  Protestant  missionaries,  who  between  July  and  Sept.  foi9r 


KARUIZAWA  e.  Baidfi.    eO 

here  in  considerable  numbers  to  recuperate^  discuss 
and  mission  matters,  and  enjoy  the  splendid  walks 
the  ^ivirons  afford.  The  air  of  tiie  phdn  on  which 
moa  stands  is  a  delightful  tonic  to  tiie  residents  of  the 
oitten  coast;  and  about  July  15,  soon  after  schools  close 
summer  vacation,  and  hohdays  are  in  order,  the  place 
to  fill  and  the  hotels  to  be  crowded.  The  flowering 
is  about  30  days  later  than  that  of  Tdky5,  and  the 
1,  the  wistaria,  and  other  flowers  which  bloom  in  T6l^6 
)kohama  in  early  May  do  not  appear  on  the  highlands 
itil  early  Jime.  To  many  this  is  by  far  the  loveliest 
—  and  the  most  satisfactory.  The  hotels  are  then 
ally  empty,  winter  rates  (lower  than  in  summer)  prevail, 
e  mdividual  receives  more  attention  than  is  possible 
the  busy  times.  The  display  of  azaleas,  when  vast 
)  of  the  hillsides  are  practically  covered  with  the  pink 
,  is  imexcelled  in  any  part  of  Japan.  No  less  beautiful 
oanner  in  which  the  wild  wistaria  decorates  the  ravines 
ngs  in  exquisite  festoons  from  the  trees.  The  draw- 
ire  the  frequent  rains,  the  dense  fogs  which  prevail  in 
the  mosquitos  (the  hotels  furnish  nets),  and  the  sand- 
uyuj  or  buto)  whose  bite  is  as  irritating  as  that  of  the 
to.  The  summer  nights  are  cool;  the  winter  climate  is 
ith  frequent  deep  snows.  Most  of  the  flimsy,  primitive 
!S  built  of  logs  with  the  bark  on,  and  owned  by  foreign- 
!  closed  in  winter,  as  the  occupants  usually  take  their 
n  Sept.  The  native  town  is  a  poor  place  without 
kl  attractions  other  than  its  mountainous  setting.  The 
r  floods  of  1910  did  considerable  damage  in  and 
the  place.  The  local  specialty,  or  tokvbetsu,  is 
Amdoy  a  good  jam  made  from  grapes  grown  in  the 

1.  The  small  group  of  native  houses  clustering  about  the  liy.  station 
Shin  (new)  Karuizavm;  the  town  proper,  Kyu  (old)  Karuizawat  is 
M.  to  the  right,  at  the  base  of  the  hills.  Except  in  the  siunmer  sea- 
Ids  and  luggage-porters  are  scarce,  as  the  men  are  otherwise  em- 
travelers  should  therefore  write  in  advance  to  the  hotel  manager  and 
3  met.  Jinriki  to  the  town  (an  easy  15  min.  walk),  20  sen.  To  the 
iotel  (35  min.  walk),  25  sen.  A  steamer-trunk  or  several  suit-cases 
>aded  into  a  jinriki  at  the  regular  fare.  If  there  are  several  trunks, 
checks  to  the  hotel  manager  and  ask  him  to  have  them  brought  up 
J  (60  sen  is  enough).  To  reach  the  town  on  foot  turn  left  from  the 
ivalk  a  few  hundred  yards  down  the  main  street,  then  turn  up  right 
w  the  long  road.  The  stone  tablet  in  the  station-yard  commemorates 
)letion  of  the  Uaui-toge  tunnels,  and  the  advent  of  the  rly. 
I  (comp.  p.  xxix) .  The  Mampei  and  the  Karuizawa  Hotda  are  in  the 
8  Mikaaa  Hotel  stands  at  the  head  of  a  ravine,  10  min.  walk  beyond, 
ft.  All  in  foreign  style,  with  plain  but  wholesome  food.  English 
Rates  from  ¥5-6  for  one  person,  and  ¥8-10  for  two  in  a  room, 
ates  for  a  long  stay;  reductions  in  the  ofiF  season.  The  Banshoken, 
omp.  p.  acxxiv)  In  the  native  style,  is  nearly  opposite  the  Karuizawa 
1  to ¥3.50  a  day  (Japanese  food).  (Certain  of  the  private  houses  taJce 
MTU  at  special  rates  made  known  on  appUoation.  Lttaxidiy  Vd^  ^*^ 
V6  per  100  pieoef/  irregpeotiv^  of  fiie.  Aik  for  a  room  ^Uk  a  «ood. 


70    RmUd  6.  KARUIZAWA  Koae  Hat  Spring. 

view,  and  preferabty  one  with  a  balcony.  Baths  free.  The  wdl-water  1110111111 
be  boiled,  before  it  is  drunk. 

The  local  Shops  are  uninteresting  and  are  usually  devoid  of  simpliM  t»* 
quired  by  foreigners.  The  Yamato,  one  of  the  most  popular  of  the  Yokohaiiis 
shops  (see  p.  6),  usually  opens  its  Karuizavoa  branch  Aug.  1,  and  aimi  to 
supply  travelers  with  what  they  need. 

Ceribtian  Church  Servicbs  are  held  on  Sundays  in  one  of  the  loeil 
cottages;  notices  are  posted  iir  the  hotel  lobby. 

Walks  and  Excursions  in  the  neighborhood  are  numeirouB, 
and  many  miles  of  footpaths  lead  up  and  around  themt.  sideB. 
While  weeks  can  be  spent  exploring  them  the  traveler  wSX 
soon  note  that  a  certain  sameness  characterizes  most  of  the 
views.  None  of  the  trips  offer  the  diversity  of  sensation  (nor 
the  danger)  experienced  on  the  climb  to  the  top  of  Asama^ 
yamay  nor  the  varied  charm  of  the  walk  to  Koae  and 
along  the  ridge  to  Hanare-yama,  The  lover  of  beautiful  land 
scapes  rich  with  foliage  and  wild  flowers  will  want  to  repea' 
this  walk  again  and  again,  as  the  pleasure  of  studying  the 
trustworthy  Asama  from  a  safe  distance  grows  on  one. 
varied  plant  life  is  a  sustained  delight.  Manv  of  ^e  Tninnrr 
walks  described  in  the  local  guidebook  are  for  tnose  who  lingen 
at  Karuizawa  and  find  time  hanging  heavily.  Horses  anc 
guides  can  be  had  upon  application  to  the  hotel  manager  a 
the  following  prices:  Riding-  or  pack-horse  by  the  hr.  35  mn 
for  the  day,  ¥2.50;  i  day,  ¥1.25;  to  Asama-yama,  ¥2.60 
to  the  Lava  Stream,  ¥2.50;  to  Kusatsu,  ¥4  (pack-horse,  ¥3) 
groom  Q)ettdy  or  coolie)  per  hr.,  15  sen.  Guide  up 
¥1.70.  Jinriki  (with  2  men)  to  Kusatsu,  ¥6;  higo  to 
same  place,  ¥9.  The  lads  who  loiter  about  the  hotels 
just  as  good  guides  as  older  heads,  and  are  cheaper  (50 
for  the  day  is  ample).  The  country  people  are  amiable, 
and  helpful. 

To  Kose  Hot  Spring  (1 J  M.).  A  good  walker  familiar  wii 
the  road  can  do  the  outward  trip  in  J  hr.,  but  it  will  be  pi 
anter  if  a  leisurely  morning  can  be  devoted  to  it  and  the  ret 
made  over  the  route  indicated  below.    The  road  leads  (left 
behind  the  Karuizawa  Hotely  bears  right,  and  passes  up  th^- 
rocky  river-bed  beside  the  Mikasa  Hotel.    In  June  a  host  0^ 
odorless  azaleas  flame  amid  the  green  grass  and  young  pine^' 
of  the  hillsides  and  idealize  the  beautifi3  landscape.  A  quain" 
bell  in  a  belfry  stands  on  the  hill  opposite  the  Mtkasa,  m  thr 
yard  of  which  are  some  fine  double  cherry  blooms.  The  clear 
cool,  garrulous  little  brook  that  whimpera  down  throu^  1J 
gorge  here  is  deceptive,  for  when  the  spring  rains  give  it  ~ 
and  power  it  is  apt  to  tear  giant  trees  out  of  the  hills  and 
them  helter-skelter  over  the  lowlands.    The  views  from  ih 
road  as  it  zigzags  up  the  pass  are  beguiling.    Hereabout! 
beautiful  wild  purple  wistaria  grows  in  riotous  pxofuflioii 
along  with  fragrant  honeysuckle  and  a  host  of  other  wil<^ 
lowers.   At  the  crest  of  the  hill  one  follows  the  load  •— "-- 


Mil  KARUIZAWA  e.  Anrfi    n 

hfrleffcyhialiiiBwith A—wanBiim,  Many Idibi and ridga 
bdi  awaar  in  cmmided  folds  at  the  rii^t,  wbile  namenim 
feniB  and  a  apedm  of  Ely  with  ediUe  bolbs  deck  the  akraoa 
he  kft  Along  the  outer  edge  of  the  pine  grove  ^kAt)  a 
iad  dainty,  framnt,  Iiliea-of-4he-valleir  now  wSn;  the 
I  woods  are  flecked  here  and  thwe  witn  nowning  trees. 
famt  thdr  cool  depths  oomes  the  inoessant»  flute<£ke  oall 
be  cackoo.  When  the  wind  is  in  the  rii^t  direction  one 
ne  soon  to  note  a  sollenj  reverberating  roar  tike  that  made 
i  heavy  rly.  train  crossing  a  bridge;  out  ^lidiich  emanates 
I  the  restless  Asamorpaima,  and  grows  momentarily  kmder 
ne  descends  the  sk^)e  toward  the  base  of  the  nnrtuy  mon- 
.  The  path  leads  down  a  gentle  dedivity  under  ov^iang- 
foliage,  alongside  a  vmteible  wild  garden  d  Solomon's* 
;  ^idc-in-the-pulpit,  violets,  buttercups,  purple  asten, 
eas,  and  a  charming,  snow-white  flower  produced  by  a 
jes  oi  wild  pear  (konashi).  At  the  foot  of  the  desc^t^ 
ead  of  crossing  the  stream  one  turns  up  rig^t  to  the  small 
ter  of  houses  bordering  a  warm  brook  —  the  remains  oi 
%  which  was  almost  annihilated  bv  the  great  floods  of 
).  Many  lukewarm  spriugs  trickle  oown  from  the  hillside, 
i  the  prmiitive  bath-houses  where  the  natives  bathe  'In 
buff '  Defore  emerging  for  the  customanr  sun4>ath.  GhiU 
r  like  the  place  for  its  'paddUng*  possibilities, 
etuniing  through  the  wood8HX>ad  to  the  clearing,  we  bear 
he  right  and  ascend  the  hill  over  the  path  directly  aeross 
open  from  that  followed  on  the  descent.  Some  fine  moun- 

cherry  trees  {yamor-zakura)  put  forth  a  host  of  whitish- 
z  blossoms  hereabout  in  early  spring.  Far  beyond  the 
bled  range  of  hills  visible  at  the  left  from  near  the  crest  of 
ridge  lies  Kitsatsu,  The  thunderous  roaring  of  Asamor 
a  is  heard  distinctly  here  —  an  ominous  note  m  the  sweet, 
^ed  country-side  where  a  myriad  insects  hum,  birds 
;,  and  flowers  oloom  joyously.  At  the  summit  of  the  ridge 
imth  winds  to  the  right  and  affords  glorious  and  far- 
thing views  at  the  ri^t  and  left.  Microscopic  towns. 
Is,  and  streams  are  seen  at  the  far  left,  and  beyond  them 
arently  interminable  mt.  ranges  which  fade  into  distant 
(  pecJcs.  At  the  right  is  a  vast  depression,  the  far  side  of 
oh  is  formed  by  a  shoulder  of  the  angry  ABoma.  A  pecu- 
fasdnation  attracts  one  to  this  loftiest  of  ail  the  Japanese 
tfuioes,  and  as  one  lies  shoulder  deep  in  the  wild  nowers 
eh  deck  the  hill  and  watches  the  smoke  curl  upward  from 

cone  opposite  —  the  while  hearkening  to  the  furious 
Idling  within  —  one  is  brought  to  a  fine  realization  of  the 
iseendental  powers  of  Nature  and  the  impotency  of  man 
n  he  essays  to  cope  with  them. 

&  first  section  of  the  ridge-path  is  tfarougji  a  woQ&»3i 
jvjealixed  hy  many  dowers;  the  tall  spireB  ot  Mt|j6gir«aTV^ 


72    Route  6.  KARUIZAWA  l/mj  Pau. 

at  the  far  left,  are  strikingly  like  those  of  the  Organ  Mts. 
near  Las  Cruces,  New  Mexico,  U.S.A.    The  snow-etreaked 
giants  at  the  far  right  of  the  Grothic-like  pinnacles  are  the  mts. 
of  Shinano  Province.    Many  day-lilies  beautify  this  stretch 
of  road  in  summer,  and  entomologists  will  find  here  an  unusual 
assemblage  of  butterflies.  The  towering  green  side  of  Hanare" 
yama  soon  comes  within  view,  and  then  Kvlaukake  is  seen 
nestling  at  its  base  (right).   [If  time  permits,  one  can  divm^ 
here  to  the  right,  follow  the  well-traveled  road  between  Kor 
ruvsawa  and  KutsukakCf  and  after  quitting  the  latter  village^ 
return  through  Hanare-yamor^machi  and  inspect  the  monu- 
ments referred  to  below.]   Karuizawa  is  visible  at  the  (1  M.> 
left. — Should  the  traveler  elect  to  return  from  Kose  over  tho 
road  taken  on  the  outward  trip,  a  side-trip  can  be  made 
a  pretty  cascade,  about  J  hr.  up  a  sheltered  valley  at 
right  of  the  Mikasa  Hotel.    The  lovely  clematis-like  floi 
so  much  in  evidence  in  the  tall  trees  is  that  of  the  spindle 
tree  —  one  of  the  dogwoods  (mayumi). 

The  Bronze  Monuments  (45  min.  walk)  on  the  slope 
Hanare-yatna,    immediately    beyond    Hanare    village, 
reached  by  following  the  Nakasendo  to  the  latter  place, 
to  a  group  of  houses  in  a  walled  compound  just  beyond;  ihi 

gaas  through  the  yard  and  follow  the  path  (no  fees)  up  the^^* 
ill  (5  min.)  to  the  terrace.    The  statues  stand  on  irtifirin'     *^ 
pedestals  of  volcanic  rock  smmounted  by  gray  granite  plinths 
whence  one  commands  a  broad  view  over  the  valley  to  the 
distant  mts.    The  figures  are  those  of  a  rich  mercliant  anc 
his  wife,  the  ancestors  of  the  present  dwellers  of  the  hoi 
below;  the  man  holds  a  fan  in  his  hand,  and  looks  self-coi 
placent;  the  kneeling  woman  looks  sorrowful.   Both  conunem — — "^ 
orate  the  pride  of  a  man  who  became  rich  because  of  hitsi-^^^ 
ability  to  hoard  his  wealth.  _^ 

Unless  time  hangs  heavily,  and  one  is  fond  of  climbing.       -» 
the  ascent  of  Hanare^yama  (about  li  hr.)  will  scarcely  repa^        "" 
the  effort;  the  hill,  which  is  covered  with  grass  to  its  roundc 
summit,  with  no  trees  to  afford  shade,  is  steeper  than  it 
from  below,  and  the  ascent,  particularlv  in  the  hot  sun,  , 
arduous.  An  equally  attractive  view  can  oe  had  with  a  smallc 
outlay  of  energy  from  the  ridge  followed  on  the  return 
Kose.    The  remarks  are  applicable  also  to  Atago-^ma, 
rounded  hill  just  back  of  the  town,  and  notable  for  the  out 
cropping  of  curious  columnar  rocks  on  its  side.    The  asoeni 
takes  about  i  hr. ;  the  shrine  near  the  top  is  of  no  interest. 

The  Usui  Pass  (2  M.)  about  780  ft.  above  the  plain, 
reached  by  continuing  to  the  top  of  the  main  st.,  "  _ 

the  bridge  over  a  mt.  torrent,  then  following  the  road  that:^ 
zigzags  up  the  hill.  Forenoon  is  the  best  time,  as  fierce  thun^ 
derstoima  sometimes  break  quickly  over  the  pass  in  the  aftflP^ 
noons  of  spring  and  summei  days.  T\ie  ^totke  monuznent  oiv       i 


YagamHfdmd.  A8AMA-YAMA  6.  Bmde.    78 

• 

the  nettr.flide  (left)  of  the  bridge  vraa  erected  (bv  the  vil- 
kgere)  in  1903  to  the  memory  ol  the  Venerable  Archdeacon 
A.  C  Shaw,  one  €3i  the  first  missionaries  to  bring  Karuimwa 
into  prominenoe  as  a  summer  resort.  The  curious^  triple- 
headed  stone  image  in  the  glade  at  the  left  of  the  bridge,  on 
the  far  side  of  the  stream,  resembles  the  Trimurti  of  Hindu 
mjthologf.  *The  grayi^-wnite  ejecta  of  pumicenstone  every- 
mere  visible  beneath  the  thin  layer  of  sou  points  to  the  great 
activity  of  Asama  in  times  past.  The  view  from  the  top  of  the 
pMBL  on  which  stands  the  omnipresent  tea-house,  is  far- 
leaching  and  attractive.  A  slightly  better  view  may  be  had 
fipom  a  poiat  farther  along  at  the  left;  from  here  one  sees  the 
eistdlated  peaks  ci  Mydgisan,  the  smoking  Asama,  Skirane^ 
mn,  the  bulky  Haruna  Mts.,  and  scores  of  lesser  peaks  and 
ridges.  A  yet  wider  panorama  spreads  below  a  point  known  as 
Fv§imv<saka  (called  also  the  Hog's  Back)  about  2  M.  N.  of 
Vtmrtdge  (follow  the  path  beyond  the  temple  and  bear 
steadily  to  the  ri^t).  On  a  clear  day  the  impeccable  Fujirsan 
18  visible  on  tiie  3.  skyline.  A  number  of  plain  trails-  radiate 
&om  the  hiUtop.  B^r  locating  Karuizawaone  may  vary  the 
descent  without  straying  far  antid. 

Yagasaki-tama,  or  Prospect  Point,  a  short  distance  S.  of 
therly.  track,  is  known  for  tne  beautiful  views  possible  from  it. 
An  entire  momine  should  be  given  to  the  trip,  as  it  is  a  stiffish 
dimb  of  about  1  hr.  from  Yagasaki  village  to  the  crest.  The 
return  may  be  varied  by  following  the  path  leading  toward 
Kamado-dtoa,  a  picturesque  spot  cmled  Pulpit  Rock. 

Iriyama  Pass  can  be  included  in  the  above  trip  by  walking 
to  Sakai  and  foUowing  the  trail  leading  due  E.  The  views 
over  the  valley  stretching  between  the  foot  of  the  pass  and 
Asama;  and  toward  Myogi-^an,  are  pleasing.  A  popular 
2-(iay  trip  is  to  (9-12  M.)  The  Kodku  Farm,  beyond  the  Wamir- 
toge.  The  usual  custom  is  to  make  the  outward  trip  the  first 
day,  spend  the  night  at  the  farmstead  (excellent  cream,  butter- 
nmk,  strawberries,  etc.),  and  return  the  following  day. 

The  Ascent  of  Asama-yama  (8260  ft.;  4330  ft.  higher  than 
Veawfvus),  the  largest,  an^est,  most  accessible,  and  treacher- 
ous volcano  on  1;he  main  island  of  Japan,  is  a  simple  matter, 
but  the  dangers  at  the  summit  are  manifold  and  should  not 
be  regarded  lightly.  The  symmetrical  cone  rises  like  a  gigantic 
ulcer  to  a  hei^t  of  5080  ft.  above  the  Kandzawa  plain,  which 
it  shaJces  to  its  center  (but  does  no  material  damage),  and 
eovers  with  ashes  whenever  it  is  in  one  of  its  irritable  moods. 
Ohoe  might  ahnost-  be  justified  in  believing  that  it  bedxa  & 
^ledal  grudge  against  mt  climbers,  for  no  BOoneT  doee  & 
mmnber  of  these  asBemble  at  the  top  than  the  baleM  moiiBtet 
tBout  thousands  of  tops  of  hot  rocks  that  kiU  aom^  aad 
^^Aflw.    Until  recently  it  was  the  custom  to  *c\oae»  \iMi 


74    B(mtee.  ASAMA-YAMA        The  Laoa  Stream. 

• 

mt.  in  winter  and  'open'  it  to  climbers,  the  first  week  in  May. 
In  1911,  on  the  day  after  the  official  'opening/  while  a  throng 
of  silent  pilgrims  were  gazing  into  the  fearsome  vent,  a  furious 
explosion  (one  of  the  mst  for  a  long  time),  followed  by  a  tre- 
mendous outburst,  occurred,  and  numbers  of  the  unfortunates 
were  killed  or  woimded.    A  similar  outbreak  with  lamentable 
results  came  in  Aug.,  1912,  at  the  moment  when  a  party  of 
Karuizawa  residents  were  at  the  summit.      Prior  to  May  26, 
1908,  when  a  violent  and  unexpected  eruption  marked  a  new 
period  of  activity  for  the  volcano,  it  had  remained  compar- 
atively quiescent  for  125  yrs.  The  eruptions  are  now  frequent 
and  formidable;  the  earth  tremors  are  sometimes  felt  in  T^kyo 
and  Yokohama,  and  the  region  roundabout  the  mt.  is  fre* 
quently  strewn  with  ashes.   During  the  vicious  manifestation 
of  Dec.  16,  1912,  masses  of  lava  and  incandescent  rocks 
streamed  and  rolled  down  the  mt.  sides,  dense  clouds  of  black 
smoke  hung  over  the  surrounding  country,  and  violent  ex- 
plosions shook  it.  The  configuration  of  the  crater  has  bee^:& 
changed  materially  by  these  tremendous  outbursts,  the  mosf^ 
violent  of  which  (as  Dr.  Omoriy  of  the  Tokyo  Imperial  Uii."3^- 
versity,  points  out)  occur  in  May  and  Dec,  when  decided  cT  ^ 
matic  changes  take  place.    The  fearsome  eruption  of 
lasted  88  days  and  spread  terror  and  devastation  for  mil« 
aroimd.  The  scoriaceous  lava-stream  destroyed  a  celebrate— ^d 
primeval  forest  near  by,  along  with  48  villages,  thousands  -^of 
people,  and  an  unlisted  number  of  domestic  animals.  Marr^y 
of  the  survivors  died   later  from  starvation,  as  the  rain    ^oi 
stones  and  ashes  covered  the  ground  to  a  depth  of  seveir"-^ 
feet  for  miles  around,  destroying  and  burying  all  the  veget-^ 
tion.    The  neighborhood  of  the  Nakasendo,  between  Oiwa^^^ 
and  the   Usui  Pass,  previously  fertile  and  productive  laik.^» 
was  turned  into  a  olistering  wilderness.  Glowing  masses    ^^ 
incandescent  rock  were  hurled  out  of  the  crater  in  all  directior^^i 
and  the  dense  shower  of  ashes  turned  day  into  night.    TJ^e 
stream  of  lava  flowed  N.  to  the  bed  of  the  AgcUsumorffau^^t 
then  turned  to  the  E.   Portions  of  this  vast  field,  whose  _ 
ish-black  masses  of  rock  are  mingled  in  wild  confusion, 
yet  visible  from  Asama^s  summit,  and  in  certain  of  its 
teristics  it  bears  a  striking  resemblance  to  the  celebrat 
Pedregcd,  in  the  Valley  of  Mexico,  near  the  town  of  Coyoaci0^^ 
The  contrast  between  the  bleak  lava  and  the  luxuriant  for0^ 
vegetation  is  remarkable;  the  one  emblematic  of  death,  d^" 
struction  and  the  unthinkable  and  blighting  forces  of  Natirr*/ 
the  other  vigorous  with  life,  vocal  with  happy  birds  and  iO" 
sects,  and  rSiolent  of  gay  flowers.    The  huge  lichen-oovereo 
blocks  bear  some  resemblance  to  sea  waves  petrified  anp 
stilled  in  their  headlong  course.    This  Lava  Stream  (Osik^ 
dashi-gawara)  forms  a  favorite  excursion  from   KannuaM      1^ 
the  bettor  part  of  a  day  should  be  devoted  to  it,  and  a  bpf     I  ^ 


VA'\  ..  >  .  VV    ASAMA-YAMA  «i. AttM.  W 

dwNdd  b9  Moeftlmm  tfie'Jhbtel  to  act  las  p^dt  and  otiny  the 
liiiidfc4Muaket.  Ladies  wfll' fiad  the  walk  tueBome.     . 

.The  mdBt.  potwlar  zoute  up  Awimtf  k  v^^ 
clcqiOy  A  teonbrniae  on  the  AiMoteu  road  reached  by  way  ol 
tOutnikake,  The  hist  2  hra^  to  the  summit  must  be  tnade  on 
foot.  A  day  and  a  local  guide  are  needed  for  the  round  4nip« 
The  low^  dopes  of.  the  mt.  are  covered  with  the  small  grapes 
fxom.  which  the  local  jam  is  made;  hidier  up  are  inclined  seas 
of  Band,  pumio&  volcanic  stones,  and  clinkersj  the  grade  is . 
not  as  stc^p  as  that  on  Fuji,  and  there  are  no  disay  precipices 
to  cross.  The  wide,  dome^haped  summit  is.  covered  with 
recently  ejected  stcmes.  many  of  tl)«m  warm  to  the  touch; 
a  lain  of  Almost  impa^iable  ash  often  descends  geatly  and 
steadily.  The  crater  is  about  }  M.  in  diameter  and  600  or 
more  ft.  dei^.  The  fact  that  it  is  filling  gradually  at  the  rate 
of  12-15  ft.  each  year,  leads  seismologists  to  the  conclusk>ii 
that  within  .the  next  20  3ri8.  a  similar  eruption  to  ..that  of  17^ 
will  occur  —  since  the  shallower  the-  crater  the  more  violetit 
the  outbreaks.  When  these  occur  all  the  tdegr^ph  wires,  in 
JSaiinzawa  hum  in  unison  with  their  menacin^^  ipar.  The  view 
fnaa  the  summit  is  grand ;^ the  ESteiike  Mte.  are  ^een  at.tiie 
N.,  with  the  NijkkS.Hange  on  the  sky-line,  ^aruna-san  seems 
stisfftlingly  near,,  as  does  the  commanding  range  i^t.  .fJus  Tff, 
which  forms  the  boundary  betwe^  Sfiinano  fmd  Hida  J^vr 
inees. '  Fuji  can  be,  seen  at  the  far  S.  on  a  clear  day,  and  at  thq 
far  W.  the  blue  Japan  Sea. 

Kusatsu  (p.99),  a  mountfun  resort  with  celebrated  hot 
springs,  lies  about  26  M.  N.W.  of  Karuizawa,  at  the  end  of  a 
road  practicable  in  the  dry  season  for  jinrikishas,  but.  better 
adapted  for  pedestrians  and  horses.  If  the  traveler  is  unwUl- 
ing  to  walk  up  the  steep  hills  behind  Karuizarca,  and  siao  up 
the  five-mile  stretch  between  Tatsuiahi  (the  last  rest-house 
on  the  journey)  and  Kiisatauy  as  well  as  at  certain  intervening 
points  on  the  road,  3  men  will  be  necessary.  Horses  are 
cheaper  and  more  satisfactory.  A  pack-horse  will  prove  better 
than  a  jinriki  if  there  is  much  lu^age.  On  a  pleasant  day  the 
trip  can  be  delightful,  and  on  a  rainy  one  execrable.  The 
traveler  boimd  for  Ikao  and  points  in  N.  Japan  will  save  time 
and  money  by  continuing  on  from  Kuaaisu  instead  of  return- 
ing to  Karuizawa.  Before  m&king  arrangements  for  ooolies 
or  conveyances  beyond  Kusatsu  consult  Rte.  7^  p.  95.  .  The 
traveler  will  also  do  well  to  telephone  to  the  manage  of  the 
Shirane  Hotel  at  Kusatsu  and  inquire  if  the  basha  (p.,  xci) 
is  in  service  between  that  point  and  Tatsuishi,  Should  sucn 
be  the  case  one  can  save  horse-  and  coolie-hire  by  engagucg 
tbopo  to  Tatsuishi  only,  and  taking  the  cheaper  eonvevance 
to,  Kusatsu,  The  manager  there  wm  at  any  time  send  ioffOBt 
MWBes,  and  coolies  to  TatsuisM  to  meet  travelers.  A^lSi^l 
Ml  l^iH'i"  '  "  Karuizawa  aud  K\mt8u\9k  hig)Ay.m\^Q&'^ks^ 


I 


EOMORO  Tlie  Chikumovmo. 

plliee)  isGontconplated,  but  until  it  is  completed  the  Ik 
town  can  be  reached  easiest  (rom  Ikao. 

The  road  from  Karuizaina  leads  toward  Ko»e,  but  tAM 
mimmit  of  the  iiill,  we  continue  on  at  the  right  inateacH 
descending  the  slope,  and  croBS  the  crest  of  the  ridge  to  tj 
open  country  beyond.  On  clear  daya  the  viewa  are  eitei 
with  mta.  everywhere  cuttinE  Che  Bky-lioe,  and  grumpy  A 
much  in  the  foreground.  The  reet--boufle8  by  the  waysidsd 
poor,  and  offer  little  in  the  way  of  refreshmenta  bE^ondlr 
grade  iMiled  rice.  amaJl  eggs,  insipid  tea,  and  poor  cakes 
large  section  of  the  lowland  hereubout  is  uaed  by  the  G 
as  a  breeding-farm  for  cavalry  horeea.  Aa  we  approach J| 
Agalmima  River  the  scenery  becomes  wilder  and  more 
esque;  the  country  is  sparsely  populated,  and  wide  s 
of  it  are  uncultivated.  Rice,  wheat,  a  epeeiea  of  paiTtia  dt 
from  which  linen  is  made;  Indian  com,  and  mulbeiry  treeo| 
the  chief  products.  The  poor  town  of  Tatauiebi  has  an  ' 
which  few  will  care  to  sleep  after  seeing  it.  The  road  h 
Kusatsu  is  described  in  Hte.  7. 

Tokohama-niigata    Rte.    continued    from  p.   6S. 
Karuizawa  the  riy.  continues  acrosa  the  plateau  and  A 
skiri^  tbe  base  (right)  of   Hanare-yama  with  the  hamlel 
the  same  name  sprawling  against  its  base.  Entering  a  broL — . 
country  gaahed  by  deep,,greeii  gorges  through  which  pluDgfaig   I 
rrvulets  course  and  brawl,  the  train  is  soon  drawn  sleadQy 
upward  to  the  2d  highest  point  (3234  ft.)  yet  reached  byB 
Japanese  rly.  (see  Rte.  25).   From  the  crest  of  the  ridee  img- 
nificent  valleys  stretch  away  to  the  far  left  and  afford  eflen- 


S lunging  through  it,  the  train  runs  up  a  spur  track  to  95  M. 
tiyaia  (2710  ft.;  Inn:  Miyoda,  at  the  station,  ¥2).  whenw 
it  descends  gradually  over  many  curves  through  a  region  de- 
voted to  the  production  of  mulberry  trees  and  Its  concomituoV 
industry,  silk.  The  paralleling  Nakasendo  hereabout  ia  betwr 
for  motor-cara  than  many  a  mt.  road  in  America,  and  it  baw 
broad  testimony  to  the  care  which  a  paternal  gov't  devotW 
to  side  issuea  in  remote  sections.  The  huge  .Asoma-mww. 
whose  ugly  peraonality  dominates  the  entire  region  hereabout, 
is  now  seen  at  the  right,  unobstructed  from  the  broad  baae  W 
the  squat  cone;  the  deep  rifta  that  gash  the  graasy  slope  fonn 
ridges  that  look  like  huge  supporting  buttreaaea,  and  »W 
considerable  maasivity  lo  the  mt.  Far  below  at  the  Mli 
racing  and  plunging  downward  between  high  bluffs,  stretchM 
ibe  Chihuma-^'wa,  while  far  beyond  it,  on  a  splendid  up- 
land terrace,  tmy  hamlets  glisteti  and  sparkle  in  the  sun. 

101  M.  Kmntyro  (2276  ft.),  a  clean  town  into  wiatshy  '     ' 
broaeht   through  bamboo  pipea  ovwfticwi  (\oo 
^),  baa  some  spieni^d  old  Lreea,  a.^Te\,\,^  'piife"'  \^ 
mu  ionaaly  witbiu  the  caaUe-gcQinuiB  **  *  w™«^3| 


lendid  up- 

he  sun.        I 


The  8haku9onrji.  EOMORO  6.  Rouie.    77 

and  a  locally  odehrated  temple,  the  Shakuson-jx,  a  favorite 
excursion  for  folks  from  Karuizawa, 

The  temide  stooda  on  b  high  bluff  overlooking  the  Chikuma  Rivera  about  3 
M.  from  the  station  (1  hr.  walk),  in  a  wild  and  romantio  spot  whenoe  there 
are  fine  views.  The  priests  (of  the  Tendai  sect  of  BuddhLats)  have  copied  the 
Chinese  custom  of  making  a  labyrinthine  mase  of  paths  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
several  shrines,  in  some  i^aees  piercing  the  rocks  and  tunneling  the  hills  to 
accomplish  their  purixMe.  The  approach  to  the  monastery  (often  called 
Nunobiki  no  KwanrunCS  is  along  a  narrow  ^orge  which  winds  up  from  the 
river.  The  general  style  of  the  place  is  similar  to  that  near  Lake  Haruna, 
and  differs  hoax  those  oi  W.  Japan  in  that  gorges  instead  of  mt.  tops  are 
favc»ite  retreats. 

As  the  rly.  continues  down  the  Chikuma  Valley  one  Rets 
adorable  views  of  the  bold  bluffs  beyond  the  stream,  and  of 
the  bulky  YatsugcUake  Range  on  the  S.  sky-line.  Tne  river 
itself,  though  here  an  impetuous  mt.  stream,  later  broadens 
into  the  Shinano-gawaj  and  before  reaching  the  sea  at  Niigata 
becomes  one  of  Japan's  finest  rivers.  Everv  foot  of  Uie  lowlands 
along  its  course  is  sown  to  rice,  barley,  wheat,  and  vegetables, 
while  stunted  mulberry  trees  deck  the  higher  slopes  of  the 
hills.  The  unusual  productivity  of  the  land  is  perhaps  aided 
by  the  subterraneous  fires  of  Asama-yama.  Scores  of  Moorish- 
looking  water-wheels  are  employed  to  irrigate  the  wedgc-^iaped 
plots  of  land  that  run  back  from  Uie  river  into  the  hills,  and  they 
unpart  an  added  air  of  thrift  and  purpose.  The  peasants  one 
sees  trudging  down  the  hillsides  nearly  all  bear  big  bimdles  of 
freshly-cut  mulberry  twigs  for  the  colonies  of  silk-worms  in 
the  homestead.  Tail  white  silk-mills,  constructed  like  Swiss 
ch&lets,  are  seen  in  some  of  the  wayside  towns. 

109  M.  Oya  (Inn:  Oya-kwaUf  ¥2)  is  usually  considered  the 
starting-point  for  the  overland  trip  to  161  M.  Gifu,  near  the 
so-called  S.  terminus  of  the  Nakasendo  —  a  sometime  cele- 
brated highway  now  practically  supplanted  by  the  Central 
Line  of  the  Imperial  Gov't  Rlys.  Below  Oya  a  number  of 
substantial  granite  retaining  walls  keep  the  hillside  terraces 
in  place,  just  as  the  numerous  whirligigs  in  the  grain-fields 
are  supposed  to  keep  the  predaceous  crows  in  theirs.  113 
M.  Uyeda  (1562  ft.)  produces  (in  several  mills)  silk  of  durable 
quality  and  a  special  fabric  (the  chief  product  of  the  district) 
(»Jled  Uyedajima — a  sort  of  Japanese  pongee.  The  old  castle 
which  once  stood  on  the  river-bank  beyond  the  town  is  now 
a  ruin.  The  Bessho  Hot  Springs  lie  about  7  M.  westward  of  the 
town  (jinriki,  60  sen).  The  wide  river  racing  downward  at 
the  left,  the  many  auaint  foot-bridges,  and  the  houses  perched 
on  the  steep  hillsides  make  a  pretty  picture.  Beyond  (left) 
119  M.  Sakaki  is  a  bizarre  hill  like  a  primitive  church;  the 
exit  from  the  amphitheater  which  it  overlooks  is  through  a 
great  gap  in  the  mts.  just  wide  enough  for  the  river,  the  rly., 
and  the  highroad;  and  as  the  train  threads  it  it  is  seen  to  be  a 
sort  of  great  entrance-way  to  a  lovely,  sun-warmed  valley 
intensively  cultivated,   dotted   with  hamlets,  and  ^eQV»dL 


I 


f  T8    Bffole  e_  NAGANO 

with  floweni.  The  thrifty  houBewivea  c 
busy  with  cocoons  or  reelinK  the  luoiatened  Rilken  ti 
primitive  single  or  compound  reela.  Beyond  135  M.  Ym 
the  Chikuma-gaum  is  crossed  (bridge  6D4  ft.  long)  to  llff 
Shinortoi  (Inn:  Maruya,  ¥2),  a  historic  town  on  the  edj 
ibe  Kavxinaka-jima  p\ain  and  known  for  a  great  batttel^ 
flu  1561)  between  the  imacrupuloue  feudal  chieftain  T^ 
Skingen  and  Uyesugi  Kerahin,  an  equally  powoful  h 
then  Lord  of  Echigo  Province.  A  branch  rly.  rune  SJ 
Maisumoto  and  connects  a.t  Skiojiri  with  the  Cepti^AL  n 
Line  (Rte.  25). 

134  M.  Hagano  (12S4  ft.),  capital  of  Nagano  Prrfetji 
with  39,500  inhabs.;  picturesquely  situated  in  a  sort  of  h^ 
Bhoe  curve  at  the  foot  of  a  lofty  mt.  range  that  rise 
behind  it,  possesses  one  of  the  most  famous  temples 
and  is  the  Mecca  for  pilgrims  from  all  the  region  nhiefiS 
about  fatjea  the  Japan  Sea. 


come  in  tlirunga  to  worship  its  relice.  Tha  big  m 
Atoiln-ii'ima.  nod  /lAi-Nama. 

TheZcnkBTemple,  the  property  of  the  I'ludainotoCBuddhiMs.itiiildiH 
tbetopoUhemsinaCSinin.  waJEfmintiieliuiuulzan'     '  '      '     " 

The  traveler prfiHsed  for  tuiiffcsnenHily  ^tBcomprehenqi 

^  tfiA  return  there  the  same  dAy-  ^era  are  Dot  obligatory,  but  an  -sLvv* 
BcccptabLe,  According  to  tradition  tbc  origiiuil  temple  wna  founded  in  in 

ereiilediD  ttae  latter  h^otthelStliceat.  ThefomidersanBupprisBdtol»ni 
beeallaada  YosliimiUu.  his  wife  Yoyai-na-Maii,  sJid  bis  eon  FuUiuJK,  wko 
are  worebiped  ^ong  with  the  three  divinities  to  vhom  it  ia  derticShW  ~~ 
Amida.  Kwinnm,  and  DaUeuhi.  The  sres-t  popidarily  of  the  fiiae  b  ytf 
QBtad  with  the  im&gea  of  theee  sainl^  which  are  enshriiied  in  ft  spediU.  sua* 
tusry  ID  Che  en.Dllegt  of  o  nott  of  7  boxes.  Thg  reliqunry  itwlf  (said  to  iM 
from  1360)  is  protected  from  the  profane  guo  o[  foreigners  by  an  otibonta 
brocide  iriirtB^  wbiofa  is  dmwn  s«de  during  the  chief leKtivats  —  tlie  GnW 
Invoeatioii  o[  Buddbi,  held  July  31;  one  oo  Haitb  I«,  In  coniniomonHitf 
of  tbc  great  earthquake  of  lS-t7;  and  othera  at  the  Bprins  and  autunjad 

time  seems  to  have  blended  Into  one  and  wKicb  the  nalivoa  worship  wit^* 
Irenued  reyeronoe.  The  stoix  runs  that  whila  Buddha  was  pn)aiiUng;U 

of  BvuidouHneas  and  declsrod  his  inlcnUou  of  making  a  gold  (or  pUtiaiMl 
image  of  the  great  t«aohcr  and  WDraluping  it.  The  metal  waa  strai^itirtt 
obWDod  from  Ibe  Dcsgan  Palaee  on  Shumium  la  fabulous  mt.  of  ToodHtll 

vene)  and  tbim  imaeee  fnehlonDd  from  it.  In  \.o.  il3  Ihey  were  brougbl  > 
Korea,  and  in  the  6th  tent,  were  preeertted  by  a  king  of  thai  amiatry  to  ''*' 
" Kimmti.  A  bigb  military  offirer  who  wna  opposed  to  Ihe  adllpl 

sm  in  Japan  BBOured  lb*  vniagM  wi^ '' ""     "' 

now  Osnka).    liv  the  reign  rA  l^  ^ 


^.      .,.   „ _., „_ -„ — _, »iiii)p(i>n 

tJ  Suddbism  in  Japan  woured  tb*  itQagei  utd  ibiew  tAmm  into  a  pond  i> 
NoHiiai  (now  O»ifto).  lo  the  reign  rfl  ftu;  Bmww.  Bw-Vn  ^sV^Ki  Bia 
Ztnie  Honda,  while  paflring  Ibe  ponrt  tWtev  t»»e&   AmiAn  PwitfiwM** 


flimoiti  of  Mlfisti^.Utb'i  ffiSaOB  up  (1ko«r\i  'ib 


nko  Temple,  NAGANO  6.  Bauie.    79 

ad  into  one,  were  f<wihwith  diBoovered,  and  as  Zenkd  was  a  native  of 
nano  Province,  he  biooght  the  image  with  him  to  Nagano  and  caused  to 
sreoted  there  a  temple  (Ji)  to  be  known  by  his  name.  Because  the  idol  had 
pnated  in  India,  and  had  reached  Japan  vi&  another  countoy,  it  was  (and 
called  Sangokurdenrai  ('unrivaled  object  imported  through  3  coimtries'). 
ny  miraclra  are  said  to  have  been  worked  by  it. 

The  first  building  at  the  left  within  the  entrance  to  the  temple  grounds 
xs  the  Imperial  Paulownia  crest  and  is  the  official  residence  of  an  abbess 
na  Miya  Samti)  bdonging  to  the  Imperial  family  and  to  a  sisterhood  of 
IS.  Adjoining  it,  back  from  a  bi^  gateway  facing  the  flagged  walk,  is  the 
xxrate  Dair-  Hongtoan^  renovated  m  1900  and  profusely  decorated  in  black- 
l-^old,  with  a  red-and-gold  lacquered  shrine.  The  light  from  the  tedl, 
rauoly  lighthouse  on  the  next  terrace  can  be  seen  for  miles  across  the  plain 
[is  Uie  beacon  for  many  a  footsore  pilgrim.  Varied  assortments  of  war- 
[^lies  —  ammimition-wagons,  cannon,  etc.  —  captured  from  the  Musco- 
»  stand  about  the  court.  Midway  at  the  left,  behind  a  quaint  bridge 
ich  spans  a  lotus-iK>nd  overhimg  with  some  ancient  gnarled  pines,  is  the 
ir-Kanahirit  adjoining  the  abbot's  residence.  Some  excellently  carved 
kzns  in  the  natural  wood,  carrying  dragon,  tennin^  waves,  flowers,  and  other 
igDB  are  features  of  the  poroh,  which  is  newer  than  parts  of  the  interior, 
re,  in  juxtaposition  to  the  elaborately  and  freshly  decorated  altar  and 
ariil  shrines,  are  a  number  of  beams  used  in  the  erection  of  the  primitive 
iple  centuries  ago.  To  this  place  come  all  the  pilgrims  from  remote  dis- 
;ts,  to  buy  and  take  home  with  them  the  locally  celebrated  'sutra  shirts' 
}[ydkatabira,  a  shroud  (sold  by  the  bonses  for  10  sen)  made  of  sleasy  white 
ton  stuff  (like  cheese-cloth)  14  in.  wide  by  34  in.  long,  fashioned  into  a 
nt  or  bosom,  and  stamped  with  cabalistic  signs.  Pilgrims  preserve  these 
be  buried  in,  along  with  another  mystic  charm,  kechimyaku,  also  sold  at 
I  temples. 

facing  the  entrance,  across  the  main  court,  ia  a  huge  pedestal  surmounted 
a  green  bronse,  seated  Jizd^  flanked  on  one  side  by  six  smaller  ones  (roku 
!d) ;  each  in  an  attitude  different  from  the  other,  and  each  with  a  baby's 
>  round  its  neck;  the  last  in  the  pathetic  row  holds  a  tiny  baby  in  its  arms. 
'6  is  one  of  the  most  popular  divinities  of  the  temple,  and  many  stone 
Etges  representing  him  stand  in  the  yard.  The  Sammon,  or  great  gate,  is 
ge,  time-stained,  and  dingy.  The  large,  strikingly  handsome  greenbronze 
ter-receptacles  at  the  right  and  left  of  the  main  entrance  are  almost  cov- 
d  with  crests  and  ideographs  and  are  worth  noting.  The  tall  concrete 
ver  at  the  left,  with  names  stamped  in  the  composing  sections,  was  erected 
the  memory  of  those  who  subscribed  appreciable  sums  to  the  upkeep  of 
)  temple.  The  Sacred  Library,  adorned  with  a  number  of  gilt  crests  and 
mounted  by  the  customary  bronze  kdahu  no  tama,  is  closed  to  the  public, 
e  old  graveyard  near  by  is  not  worth  looking  at.  From  a  point  Just 
(Tond  the  library  one  may  get  a  comprehensive  idea  of  the  vastness  of  the 
0-storied  structure  (108  ft.  wide  by  198  ft.  deep)  with  its  immensely  heavy 
pie-gabled  roof  (upheld  by  136  pillars)  marked  by  a  ridge  in  the  style 
led  shumoku,  from  its  resemblance  to  the  wooden  hammer  used  by  the 
ddhist  priests  to  strike  a  bell  employed  in  their  religious  services.  The 
384  raf  ten  (said  to  have  been  usea  in  constructing  the  temple)  are  sjncn- 
lio  of  the  number  of  characters  in  the  Chinese  version  of  the  Buddhist 
iptures.  Many  of  these  are  needed  to  bear  the  weight  of  the  ponderous  roof, 
ich  is  marked  by  an  intricate  and  puzzling  system  of  compound  brackets 
inedby  time  and  the  elements  to  a  rich,  bronze  brown.  Quaint  wind-bells 
ad  from  the  comera  and  tinkle  in  response  to  the  wind  that  sighs  through 
B  lofty  trees.  The  shingles  are  laid  on  a  foot  or  more  thick,  after  the  at- 
letive  manner  of  the  roofs  of  wealthy  Skintd  shrines. 
The  outer  part  of  the  great  central  nave  with  its  two  lateral  aisles  resem- 
38  a  dismantled  junk-shop,  so  littered  is  it  with  huge  drums  and  relics  of 
rious  sorts.  The  high,  dark,  coffered  ceiling  with  its  sunken  panels,  each 
(Mmed  with  a  16-peteJ  chrysanthemum,  —  in  token  of  the  Im^rial  patron- 
le,  —  imparts  a  dioomy,  even  dismal,  aspect  to  it,  and  this  is  h.e\s!b,teTiQd 
r  the  pigeon-defiAsd  metal  lanterns  which  pend  at  every  availabVe  povaX, 
MB  tie  raften.    The  aide  altara  flanking  the  aisles  contain  a  trashy  \o\.  ol 

"jf^^.Z^^'^^Jit  ^^  ^^^  ^^^«  of  the  RcRent  of  HeW;  tYie  ^a- 
»(/  ^fmun,,  of  Buddha,  and  other  Ughis  that  occupy  the  bToad  iiave. 


78    Route  6.  NAGANO 

with  flowers.    The  thrifty  hoUHewivee  can  be  8.. 

buay  with  cocaona  or  reeling  the  moistened  Hilken  t1 

primitive  single  or  compuunfi  reels.    Beyond  135  M,  YiA 

the  Chikunta-gawa  is  crossed  (bridge  694  ft.  long)  tOl3V 

Shinonoi  (Inn:  Maruya,  ¥2),  a  historic  town  on  the  edf 

the  KawanakOfjiina  plain  and  known  for  it  sreat  battilefa 

I    (in  1561)  between  the  unscrupulous  teodaJ  chJefti^O  T 

,   Skingen  and   Vyesugi  Kenshin,  an   equally  powerful  I 

I   then  Lord  of  Echigo  Province.    A  hrannii  rly.  runa  S.i 

Matsumolo  and  connects  at  Skiojiri  with  the  CBNTSil-S 

LtiJE  (Rte,  25). 

134  M.  Nagano  (1284  ft.),  capital  of  Nagano  Pref«^ 

vith  39,500  inLabs.;  picturesquely  situated  in  a  sort  of  H 

shoe  curve  at  the  foot  of  a  lofty  mt.  range  that  riaea  _  ' 

behind  it,  possesses  one  of  the  most  famous  temples  in  JtsSi^ 

'   and  is  the  Mecca  for  pilgrims  from  all  the  region  whichun- 

'  about  fa<;ea  the  Japan  Sea. 

The  Pimga  HiXd.  nn  ion  cm  the  i 
Ufauiki.  iS  vn).  in  bettflE  itqiiippBd 
oppooite  ti»  station.  Ratc9  from  ¥^4 
,    roouifl  Are  *t  th«  reoj,  overiDiJdng 
otluT  hau  bard  by,  flbief  amn"' 
""•—^  It.  ia  vary  lively  and  pii 


doBt  mirt  of  Iho  pnneEit  ,_,_,_, 

„ _  jam.  TbBfoundarasresnnpMBiitohw 

taSanda  rathimilni,  bi»  wife  Yayn^o-ilai,  and  hia  son  failiiniii.  >te 

Amida,  Kvxmnim,  and  Daueithi.  The  itnist  popularity  of  the  tiuia  ia  H*>- 
daWd  «ilh  the  imagea  ol  theoa  nunla.  wMah  ue  enahtlDed  ia  a  apee^  auu- 
tn^ry  in  the  BoiaJlest  of  a  luiBt  oi  7  boivfl.  Ths  reUquary  ilaelf  (aoid  |o  ditf 
Iroia  1369)  la  pratscted  from  the  tirofann  bobd  of  foreigoerg  by  an  ^aborall 
bnMBdB  eiirtiuii  nhlnb  ii  drevD  wnde  durGs  the  Ctdd  leativab^Ibe  Qntt 
InvtKBtioD  of  Buddha,  held  July  31;  one  on  Maroh  14,  hi  oommemonWi 
q1  tbe  ereat  earthquake  ol  1347;  aod  others  at  tho  Bphnft  and  autuow 
etiiiiiioxoe.  An  i.laboratfl  fable  enahrouda  the  origiD  of  tneae  figurinoi.  wi^ 
liniB  saema  lo  have  lilended  into  one  and  which  the  naHvea  wotalup  wlii 
Ireniied  reverence.  The  atoiy  nuu  Ibac  nhila  Buddhn  waa  pteaetainc  tit 
d«liineiia  India  a  certain  miara-ly  Hindu  benamo  ooDTineed  of  UwimpiiV 

ima^  of  Iha  great  1«acher  end  WDtahiping  it,  The  metal  wae  atnu^iin 
obtaiaed  from  the  Dngon  Pniaije  on  Shumiien  (a  lebulcnu  mt.  ol  wOBdnM 
hught  which  risca  Ironi  the  middle  of  the  ocean  and  foniiB  the  ana  «^1iuVBF 
venie)and  three  inmAea  [jtBhioiu^  from  it.  Tn  a.d.  413  they  ivaie  brou^U 
Korea,  and  in  theflth  oent.  ware  presented  by  a  kins  otthBt  eoumiy  lotb" 
BmpBrar  Kivivi^-  -A  hijf h  military  officer  who  Haa  opposod  to  tha  adapBidB 
of  Snddhiam  in  Japaa  Mcuted  IW  iine««  sod.  thnw  tbam  into  a  pood  •< 

.,_..         K    f  .     ,     .,      -  -  -   rf  tt»  Emw-Mi  Swim  '.■KSS-feSi  wa 

rt  0«.^Kr  «Aoi    A.mvltt  PoiBft  «M 


mho  Temple.  NAGANO  6.  Bauie,    79 

led  into  (met  were  f<«thwith  discovered,  and  as  Zenkd  was  a  native  of 
inano  Province,  he  biooght  the  image  with  him  to  iVooano  and  caused  to 
erected  there  a  temple  (ji)  to  be  known  by  his  name.  Because  the  idol  had 
^^nated  in  India,  and  had  reached  Japan  vi&  another  country,  it  was  (and 
called  Sangokik-denrai  ('unrivaled  object  imported  through  3  coimtries'). 
any  miracles  are  said  to  have  been  worked  by  it. 

The  first  building  at  the  le^t  within  the  entrance  to  the  temple  grounds 
urs  the  Imiierial  Paulownia  crest  and  is  the  official  residence  of  an  abbess 
ma  Miya^  Satna)  bdonging  to  the  Imperial  family  and  to  a  sisterhood  of 
ns.  Adjoining  it,  back  from  a  bi^  gateway  facing  the  flag^d  walk,  is  the 
boirate  Dai-  Hongwan^  renovated  in  1900  and  profusely  decorated  in  black- 
d-^old,  with  a  red-and-gold  lacquered  shrine.  The  light  from  the  tall, 

riuoly  lighthouse  on  the  next  terrace  can  be  seen  for  miles  across  the  plain 
is  the  beacon  for  many  a  footsore  pilgrim.  Varied  assortments  of  war- 
iphies  —  ammunition^wagons,  cannon,  etc.  —  captured  from  the  Musco- 
es  stand  about  the  court.  Midway  at  the  left,  behind  a  quaint  bridge 
deh  spans  a  lotus-iK>nd  overhimg  with  some  ancient  gnarled  pines,  is  the 
vi-Kan»hin^  adjoining  the  abbot's  residence.  Some  excellently  carved 
ams  in  the  natural  wood,  carrying  dragon,  tennin,  waves,  flowers,  and  other 
mgDB  are  features  of  the  porch,  which  is  newer  than  parts  of  the  interior, 
sre,  in  juxtaposition  to  the  elaborately  and  freshly  decorated  altar  and 
end  shrineSj  are  a  number  of  beams  used  in  the  erection  of  Uie  primitive 
nple  centuries  ago.  To  this  place  come  all  the  pilgrims  from  remote  dis- 
cts,  to  buy  and  take  home  with  them  the  locally  celebrated  'sutra  shirts' 
kydkcUabira^A  shroud  (sold  by  the  bouses  for  10  sen)  made  of  sleasy  white 
tton  stuff  (like  cheeee-cloth)  14  in.  wide  by  34  in.  lon^,  fashioned  into  a 
>nt  or  bosom,  and  stamped  with  cabalistic  signs.  Pilgnms  preserve  these 
be  buried  in,  alcmg  with  another  mystic  charm,  kechimyaku,  also  sold  at 
e  temples. 

Facing  the  entrance,  across  the  main  court,  ia  a  huge  p^estal  surmounted 
'  a  green  bronse,  seated  Jizd,  flanked  on  one  side  by  six  smaller  ones  (roku 
z6) ;  each  in  an  attitude  different  from  the  other,  and  each  with  a  baby's 
b  round  its  neck;  the  last  in  the  pathetic  row  holds  a  tiny  baby  in  its  arms. 
z6  is  one  of  the  most  popular  divinities  of  the  temple,  and  many  stone 
lages  representing  him  stand  in  the  yard.  The  Sammon,  or  great  gate,  is 
ige,  time-stained,  and  dingy.  The  large,  strikingly  handsome  greenbronze 
iter-receptacles  at  the  right  and  left  of  the  main  entrance  are  almost  cov- 
ed with  crests  and  ideographs  and  are  worth  noting.  The  tall  concrete 
wer  at  the  left,  with  names  stamped  in  the  composing  sections,  was  erected 
the  memory  of  those  who  subscribed  appreciable  sums  to  the  upkeep  of 
e  temple.  'The  Sacred  Library,  adorned  with  a  number  of  gilt  crests  and 
rmounted  by  the  customary  bronze  hdaku  no  tama,  is  closed  to  the  public, 
le  old  graveyard  near  by  is  not  worth  looking  at.  From  a  point  Just 
yond  the  library  one  may  get  a  comprehensive  idea  of  the  vastness  of  the 
ro-6toried  structure  (108  ft.  wide  by  198  ft.  deep)  with  its  immensely  heavy 
iple-gabled  roof  (upheld  by  136  pillars)  marked  by  a  ridge  in  the  style 
fled  shumoku,  from  its  resemblance  to  the  wooden  hammer  used  by  the 
iiddhist  priests  to  strike  a  bell  employed  in  their  religious  services.  The 
>,384  rafters  (said  to  have  been  usea  in  constructing  the  temple)  are  sjnoi- 
dio  of  the  number  of  characters  in  the  Chinese  version  of  the  Buddhist 
ripiiues.  Many  of  these  are  needed  to  bear  the  weight  of  the  ponderous  roof, 
hich  is  markea  by  an  intricate  and  puzzling  system  of  compound  brackets 
ainedby  time  and  the  elements  to  a  rich,  bronze  brown.  Quaint  wind-bells 
ind  from  the  comers  and  tinkle  in  response  to  the  wind  that  sighs  through 
te  lofty  trees.  The  shingles  are  laid  on  a  foot  or  more  thick,  after  the  at- 
aetive  maimer  of  the  roofs  of  wealthy  Shintd  shrines. 
The  outer  part  of  the  great  central  nave  with  its  two  lateral  aisles  resem- 
les  a  dismantled  junk-shop,  so  littered  is  it  with  huge  drums  and  relics  of 
arious  sorts.  The  high,  dark,  coffered  ceiling  with  its  sunken  panels,  each 
domed  with  a  16-peteJ  chrysanthemum,  —  in  token  of  the  Im^rial  patron- 
IS,  —  imparts  a  dioomy,  even  dismal,  aspect  to  it,  and  this  is  b.e\g!b\ATied 
y  the  pigeon-defifed  jnetaJ  lanterns  which  pend  at  every  availabVe  pomV. 
tua  the  rafters.  The  aide  altara  banking  the  aisles  contain  a  trashy  \o\,  ol 
w^i^^^'wSiJf  ^^^/mted  iS^ures  of  the  RcRent  of  HeW;  t\»  d\«- 
»/  J^m^ury,  of  Buddha,  and  other  Ughts  that  occupy  the  bioad  nave. 


78    Route  6.  NAGANO 

with  fiowore.    The  thrifty  houaewivcs  e  

busy  with  cocoone  or  reding  the  moistened  Edlken  ti 
primitive  single  or  compound  ret^ifl.    Beyond  135  M. 
the  Ckihuma-gawa  is  crossed  (bridge  694  ft.  long)  tOlS 
Shinonoi  (Inn:  Maruya,  ¥2),  a  historic  Itiwn  on  the  ec 
the  Kawarmlm-jima  plain  and  known  for  a  sreat  battlef<S 
(in  1561)  between  the  unscrupulous  feudal  ehieftaJD  TtM 
ShiTigen  and   Uyesvffi   Keiuihin,  an  equally  powerful  I 
then  Lord  of  Euhigo  Province.   A  branch  riy.  runa  3 J 
Mateumolo  and  connects  at  Shiojiri  with  the  Cbntsalv 

.    Limb  (Rte.  25). 

134  M.  Naeano  (1284  ft.),  capital  of  Nagano  Prefm^ 

'   with  39,500  iniiabs,;  picturesquely  situated  in  a  sort  of  h( 
ahoe  curve  at  the  foot  of  a  lofty  mt,  range  IJiat  risea  ff"    ,  . 
behind  it,  possesses  one  of  the  most  famous  temples  in  Jipu  I 
and  ie  the  Mecca  for  pilgrims  from  all  the  region  whiuhliflK- 
about  fatjcs  the  Japan  Sea.  > 

Ths  Fwim  HotsI,  nn  inn  on  tha  DiHin  st.  10  nun.  waJk  tnoi  thu  ta&M  t 
(Jinriki.  15  len).  ia  better  uiuiiipud  to  eolertain  forineiers  Ihan.  iu  bnHli  a 
oppoaita  tbo station,  Rslcsfrom  ¥4  adaj;:  a  little  Endiih  spalcen.Tlubal  I 
noniB  Are  at  the  rear,  overlcKrldng  the  (ttiaint  gardeii.  There  qju  n  nimfber  H  i 
olbac  iDnB  bard  b^,  I^bieC  amimE  tbeiii  Ibe  Giwifl-tunrt  (¥2),  —  The  hll  ■ 
ofiDtral  At.  ia  very  lively  aod  pictureafiueivithiisflaDrasaf  tuLy  sboncvwaB   i 

with  mBTchttodiBo  indirectly  sfflocla.tod  with  tb- ■ ' i-i—  *■    ---»•■ 

come  in  IhroDga  to  worship  iui  reiicB.  Thebigj 
Anaahi-voma,  and  Inhi-jiaina- 

The  ZenkSTemple.lbe  property  of  the  Trndiu  Beut  of  Budi 
thDtoiiDftbemainBt..6n]ja.  walk  from  the  inn  and  20  mil    ' 
inly  Eet  a  comprelieriAiTt 
Ju  the  HKunumi  hitbei 


■ndrefurn  tb 

'to  the  Bame  day .    Feaa 

ra  no 

ngmal  temple  was  founded  iO':^   1* 

670.  and  hist 

ly  reeorda  that  the  oldes 

mrt 

atter  half  ri  the  15th  cent 

ThEloiinden>areiuDiH»edtula<ni     • 

b^S^p'^'r 

a-_Ma 

to  whom  it  i»  dedicated-     1 

Amida.  S^n 

onuloiilyol  die  fancisiMF     1 

riBl«d»ithth 

iaaga  of  ^leae  sunU.  whioh  lue'  enihriaBd  in  s  ipeaal  bM-     f 

tuary  in  the  « 

.  Tb 

rali-iusryilKlfCsaidtodnW 

from  Um  is 

iroteuted  from  the  prolan 

gaae 

h?.'a3i=,a'=£s; 

brnoadecunt 

rinsi 

Buddha,  held  July  ai;  on 

eon 

of  the  great 

arthciuake  of  1S47;  and 

rigiu  of  Sob  Bautinefc  wlwb 

elaborate  fable  cn.'iliriiud 

the" 

1  the  nalivai  womhipwiA  s 

Ironued  revon 

nca.  The  Btory  run,  tha 

whi 

i^oclrina  ID  India  a  «,rUiio  miterly  liin 

u  bor- 

.mo'^nvin™ rftK  iio|Ml 

ot  ataricionEn 

eaa  and  docLarocI  bis  inlan 

on  0 

Iman  of  the 

reat  teacher  and  worship 
thaDnwanPaLDQBini.5'. 

FKMff 

heiahC  wh^cb  riE.ee  from  the  middle  of  tha 

and  forniH  Che  axis  of  the  UV 

^j:^^}^ 

M  imogts  tnahioned  Irooi 

t    In 

«.D.  113  thay  were  bnraghm 

Brnperw  KimTnti.  A  high  militsry  of 

of  Buddhidm  in  Japan  (eoored  Vox  iuinwai  ami 

JVaniwa  fnow  Qmia).   In  Uia  rnitn  ol  ftie  £..._ „ 

"■■■■■  ■  il  [VsUn  witea   AmWa  P 


Zmki  Ifoiubi.  wMIb  paBBiliR  tto  \)oi«l  [VsUn  wftiA 
eFunmer  of  celeitial  Uibt  makius  a\i  lJaHia«.\i  ^^  vi 


enko  Temple.  NAGANO  6,  Rotde.    79 

aed  into  one,  were  f<wihwith  discovered,  and  as  Zenkd  was  a  native  of 
dnano  Province,  he  brought  the  image  with  him  to  Nagano  and  caused  to 
I  erected  there  a  temple  O'i)  to  be  known  by  his  name.  Because  the  idol  had 
iglxiated  in  India,  and  had  reached  Japan  vi&  another  countoy,  it  was  (and 
)  called^  Sangoku-denrai  ('unrivaled  object  imported  through  3  coimtiies*)* 
[any  miracles  are  said  to  have  been  worked  by  it. 

TliMB  first  building  at  the  left  within  the  entrance  to  the  temple  grounds 
ais  the  Imiierial  Paulownia  crest  and  is  the  official  residence  of  an  abbess 
Lma  Miya^  Sama^  brion^ng  to  the  Imperial  family  and  to  a  sisterhood  of 
ins.  Adjcnning  it,  back  from  a  bi^  gateway  facing  the  flagged  walk,  is  the 
kborate  Dair  Hongtoan^  renovated  m  1900  and  profusely  decorated  in  black- 
id-^old,  with  a  red-and-gold  lacquered  shrine.  The  light  from  the  tedl, 
uBfunly  lighthouse  on  the  next  terrace  can  be  seen  for  miles  across  the  plain 
id  is  the  beacon  for  many  a  footsore  pilgrim.  Varied  assortments  of  war- 
aphies  —  ammunition-wagons,  cannon,  etc.  —  captured  from  the  Musco- 
tes  stand  about  the  court.  Midway  at  the  left,  behind  a  quaint  bridge 
tiich  spans  a  lotus-pond  overhimg  with  some  ancient  gnarled  pines,  is  the 
%i-Kan»hint  adjoining  the  abbot's  residence.  Some  excellently  carved 
sams  in  the  natural  wood,  carrying  dragon,  tennin,  waves,  flowers,  and  other 
laisiis  are  features  of  the  porch,  which  is  newer  than  parts  of  the  interior. 
ere,  in  juxtaposition  to  the  elaborately  and  freshly  decorated  altar  and 
teral  shrineSj  are  a  number  of  beams  used  in  the  erection  of  the  primitive 
mple  centuries  ago.  To  this  place  come  all  the  pilgrims  from  remote  dis- 
icts,  to  buy  and  take  home  with  them  the  locally  celebrated  'sutra  shirts' 
'  kydkatab%raf&  shroud  (sold  by  the  bonses  for  10  sen)  made  of  sleanr  white 
itton  stuff  (Uke  cheese-cloth)  14  in.  wide  by  34  in.  long,  fashioned  into  a 
ont  or  boeom,  and  stamped  with  cabalistic  signs.  Pilgrims  preserve  these 
>  be  buried  in,  along  with  another  mystic  chann,  kechimyaku,  also  sold  at 
\e  temples. 

Facing  the  entrance,  across  the  main  court,  is  a  huge  pedestal  surmoimted 
^  a  green  bronse,  seated  Jizd^  flanked  on  one  side  by  six  smaller  ones  (roku 
izo) ;  each  in  an  attitude  different  from  the  other,  and  each  with  a  baby's 
ib  round  its  neck;  the  last  in  the  pathetic  row  holds  a  tiny  baby  in  its  arms. 
izo  is  one  of  the  most  popular  divinities  of  the  temple,  and  many  stone 
tiages  representing  him  stand  in  the  yard.  The  Sammon,  or  great  gate,  is 
age,  time-stained,  and  dingy.  The  large,  strikingly  handsome  green  bronze 
ater-receptacles  at  the  right  and  left  of  the  main  entrance  are  almost  cov- 
■ed  with  crests  and  ideographs  and  are  worth  noting.  The  tall  concrete 
)wer  at  the  left,  with  names  stamped  in  the  composing  sections,  was  erected 
» the  memory  of  those  who  subscribed  appreciable  sums  to  the  upkeep  of 
le  temple.  The  Sacred  Library,  adorned  with  a  number  of  gilt  crests  and 
irmounted  by  the  customary  bronze  hdahu  no  tama,  is  closed  to  the  public, 
he  old  graveyard  near  by  is  not  worth  looking  at.  From  a  point  Just 
syond  the  library  one  may  get  a  comprehensive  idea  of  the  vastness  of  the 
iro-etoried  structure  Q08  ft.  wide  by  198  ft.  deep)  with  its  immensely  heavy 
iple-gabled  roof  (upheld  by  136  pillars)  marked  by  a  ridge  in  the  style 
iUed  shumoku,  from  its  resemblance  to  the  wooden  hammer  used  by  the 
uddliist  priests  to  strike  a  bell  employed  in  their  religious  services.  The 
9,384  rafters  (said  to  have  been  used  in  constructing  the  temple)  are  sjnoi- 
olio  of  the  number  of  characters  in  the  Chinese  version  of  the  Buddhist 
niptures.  Many  of  these  are  needed  to  bear  the  weight  of  the  ponderous  roof, 
rhich  is  marked  by  an  intricate  and  puzzling  system  of  compound  brackets 
tained  by  time  ana  the  elements  to  a  rich,  bronze  brown.  Quaint  wind-bells 
end  from  the  corners  and  tinkle  in  response  to  the  wind  that  sighs  through 
he  lofty  trees.  The  shingles  are  laid  on  a  foot  or  more  thick,  after  the  at- 
raetive  manner  of  the  roofs  of  wealthy  Shint6  shrines. 

The  outer  part  of  the  great  central  nave  with  its  two  lateral  aisles  resem- 
iles  a  dismantled  junk-shop,  so  littered  is  it  with  huge  drums  and  relics  of 
various  sorts.    The  high,  dark,  coffered  ceiling  with  its  sunken  panels,  each 
idomed  with  a  16-petal  chrysanthemum,  —  in  token  of  the  Imperial  patTon- 
lie,  —  imparts  a  noomy,  even  dismal,  aspect  to  it,  and  this  is  b.eig!b\ATied 
hy  the  pigeon-defifed  metAl  Jantems  which  pend  at  every  availabVe  poVn\. 
bom  the  rafters.   The  mde  altars  banking  the  aislee  contain  a  trashy  \o\,  ol 
S3^i2^^'»5ife ^^/mted iSgiires  of  the  Regent  of  He\l;  t\i^  das- 
im/  ^,nn^,  of  Buddba,  aod  other  Ughts  that  occupy  the  bioad  nave. 


78    E&uie  6.  NAGANO  iSKtvnofioi. 

with  flowers.  The  thrifty  housewives  can  be  seen  4t  work 
busy  with  cocoons  or  reeling  the  moistened  silken  thr^Euls  on 
primitive  single  or  compoimd  reels.  Beyond  135  M.  YaMro 
the  Chikumorgawa  is  crossed  (bridge  694  ft.  long)  to  128  M. 
Shinonoi  (Inn:  Maruya,  ¥2),  a  historic  town  on  the  edge  of 
the  Kawariakarjima  ploin.  and  known  for  a  great  battle  fought 
(in  1561)  between  the  imscrupulous  feudal  chieftain  Taheda 
Shingen  and  Uyesugi  Kenshin,  an  equally  powerful  baron. 
then  Lord  of  Echigo  Province.  A  branch  rly.  runs  S.E.  via 
McUsumoto  and  connects  at  Shiojiri  with  the  Central  Rlt. 
Line  (Rte.  25). 

134  M.  Nagano  (1284  ft.),  capital  of  Nagano  Pr^ecture, 
with  39,500  inhabs. ;  picturesquely  situated  in  a  sort  of  horse- 
shoe curve  at  the  foot  of  a  lofty  mt.  range  that  rises  greenly 
behind  it,  possesses  one  of  the  most  famous  temples  in  Japan 
and  is  the  Mecca  for  pilgrims  from  all  the  region  which  here- 
about faqes  the  Japan  Sea. 

The  Fujiya  Hold,  an  inn  on  the  main  st.  10  min.  walk  from  the  station 
(jinrlki.  15  sen),  is  better  equipped  to  entertain  foreigners  than  Ita  bruich 
opposite  the  station.  Rates  from  ¥4  a  d&y,  a  little  English  spoken.  The  best 
rooms  are  at  the  rear,  overlooking  the  quaint  garden.  There  are  a  nimiber  of 
other  inns  hard  b^,  chief  among  them  the  uotnei-kwan  (¥2).  —  The  lone 
central  st.  is  very  hvel^  and  picturesque  with  its  scores  of  tidy  shopi  orammed 
with  merchandise  indirectly  associated  with  the  temple  and  the  pilgrims  who 
Gome  in  throngs  to  worship  its  relics.  The  big  mts.  at  the  left  of  the  town  are 
Asaahi-yama,  and  Ishi-yama. 

The  ZenkC  Temple,  the  property  of  the  Tendai  sect  of  Buddhists,  stands  at 
the  top  of  the  main  st.,  5  nun.  walk  from  the  inn  and  20  min.  from  the  staticm. 
The  traveler  pressed  for  time  can  easily  get  a  comprehensive  idea  of  it  between 
trains  (2  hrs.  is  ample)  or  can  make  the  excursion  hither  from  Kcaru/uawa 
•  and  return  there  the  same  day.  Fees  are  not  obligatory,  but  aie  always 
acceptable.  According  to  tradition  the  original  temple  was  founded  in  a.d. 
670,  and  history  records  that  the  oldest  part  of  the  present  structure  was 
erected  in  the  latter  half  of  the  15th  cent.  The  founders  are  supposed  to  have 
been  Honda  Yoahimitau,  his  wife  Yayoi-^o-Mae,  and  his  son  YoahiaiUee,  who 
are  worshiped  along  with  the  three  divinities  to  whom  it  is  dedicated  — 
Amt'ela,  Kivannon,  and  Daiaeishi.  The  great  popularity  of  the  fane  is  asso- 
ciated with  the  images  of  these  saints,  which  are  enshrined  in  a  special  sane- 
tuary  in  the  smallest  of  a  nest  of  7  boxes.  The  reliquary  itself  Owid  to  date 
from  1369)  is  protected  from  the  i)rofane  gaze  of  foreigners  bv  an  elaborate 
brocade  curtain  which  is  drawn  aside  during  the  chief  festivals — the  Great 
Invocation  of  Buddha,  held  July  31;  one  on  March  14,  in  commemoration 
of  the  great  earthquake  of  1847;  and  others  at  the  spring  and  autumnal 
equinoxes.  An  elaborate  fable  enshrouds  the  origin  of  these  figurines,  which 
time  seems  to  have  blended  into  one  and  which  the  natives  worship  with  a 
frenzied  reverence.  The  story  runs  that  while  Buddha  was  ineaohing  his 
doctrines  in  India  a  certain  miserly  Hindu  became  convinced  of  the  impiety 
of  avariciousness  and  declared  his  intention  of  making  a  gold  (or  platinuin} 
image  of  the  great  teacher  and  worsMping  it.  The  metal  was  straightway 
obtained  from  the  Dragon  Palace  on  Shumiaen  (a  fabulous  mt.  of  wondeifnl 
height  which  rises  from  the  middle  of  the  ocean  and  forms  the  axis  cd  the  un^ 
verse)  and  three  images  fashioned  from  it.  In  a.d.  413  they  were  broo^t  to 
Korea,  and  in  the  6th  cent,  were  presented  by  a  king  of  that  oountiy  to  the 
Emperor  Kimmei.  A  high  miUtary  officer  who  was  opposed  to  the  adoptiao 
of  Buddhism  in  Japan  secured  the  images  and  threw  them  into  a  pond  at 
Nanitoa  (now  Oaaka).  In  the  reign  of  the  Emvreaa  Suiko  (593-^S28)  one 
Zenkd  Honda,  while  passing  the  pond  (Later  called  Amida  Pond)  ncfted  a 
gUmmw  of  ceteHtiai  light  making  up  through  the  water.  The  fig.uriiMH.  noir 


Temjde,  NAGANO  6.  Route.    70 

lio  one,  were  f<»thwith  discovered,  and  as  Zenkd  waa  a  native  of 
>  Province,  he  brought  ihe  image  with  him  to  Nagano  and  oMiaed  to 
ied  there  a  temple  0'«)  to  be  known  by  his  name.  Because  the  idol  had 
bed  in  India,  and  had  reached  Japan  vift  another  countoy,  it  was  (and 
id  Sangokurdenrai  ('unrivaled  object  imported  through  3  cmmtiies')- 
niracles  are  said  to  have  been  worked  by  it. 

Brst  building  at  the  left  within  the  entrance  to  the  temple  grounds 
le  Imperial  Paulownia  crest  and  is  the  official  rendence  of  an  abbess 
\i%ya  Satna)  belonging  to  the  Imperial  family  and  to  a  sisterhood  of 
Adjoining  it,  back  from  a  bi^  gateway  facing  the  flagged  walk,  is  the 
te  Dai-  Hongwan,  renovated  m  1900  and  profusely  decorated  in  Uack- 
d,  with  a  red-and-gold  lacquered  shrine.  The  light  from  the  tall, 
y  lighthouse  on  the  next  terrace  can  be  seen  for  miles  across  the  plain 
^ne  beacon  for  many  a  footsore  pilgrim.  Varied  assortments  of  war- 
B  —  ammunition-wagons,  cannon,  etc.  —  capttured  from  the  Musco- 
and  about  the  court.  Midway  at  ihe  left,  behind  a  quaint  bridge 
ipans  a  lotus-pond  ovcrhimg  with  some  ancient  gnarled  pines,  is  the 
inahtTif  adjoining  the  abbot's  residence.  Some  excellently  curved 
n  the  natural  wood,  carrying  dragon,  tennin,  waves,  flowers,  and  other 
are  features  of  the  porch,  which  is  newer  than  parts  of  the  interior, 
n  juxtaposition  to  the  elaborately  and  freshly  decorated  altar  and 
shrines,  are  a  number  of  beams  used  in  the  erection  of  tiie  primitive 
centuries  ago.  To  this  place  come  all  the  pilgrims  from  remote  dis- 
io  buy  and  take  home  with  them  the  locally  celebrated  'sutra  shirts' 
atabira,  a  shroud  (sold  by  the  bonxes  for  10  sen)  made  of  sleanr  white 
stuff  (like  cheese-cloth)  14  in.  wide  by  34  in.  lon|;,  fashioned  into  a 
r  bosom,  and  stamped  with  cabalistic  signs.  Pilgnms  preserve  these 
uried  in,  along  with  another  mystic  charm,  kechimyaJcu,  also  sold  at 
iples. 

ig  the  entrance,  across  the  main  court,  is  a  huge  pMestal  surmounted 
een  bronsc,  seated  Jizd,  flanked  on  one  side  by  six  smaller  ones  (roku 
sach  in  an  attitude  different  from  the  other,  and  each  with  a  baby's 
nd  its  neck;  the  last  in  the  pathetic  row  holds  a  tiny  baby  in  its  arms, 
one  of  the  most  popular  divinities  of  the  temple,  and  many  stone 
representing  him  stand  in  the  yard.  The  Sammon,  or  great  gate,  is 
ime-stained,  and  dingy.  The  large,  strikingly  handsome  green  bronie 
^ceptacles  at  the  right  and  left  of  the  main  entrance  are  almost  cov- 
ith  crests  and  ideographs  and  are  worth  noting.  The  tall  concrete 
it  the  left,  with  names  stamped  in  the  composing  sections,  was  erected 
memory  of  those  who  subscribed  appreciable  sums  to  the  upkeep  of 
iple.  The  Sacred  Library,  adorned  with  a  number  of  gilt  crests  and 
mted  by  the  customary  bronze  hoahu  no  tama,  is  closed  to  the  public, 
i  graveyard  near  by  is  not  worth  looking  at.  From  a  point  Just 
.  the  library  one  may  get  a  comprehensive  idea  of  the  vastness  of  the 
>ried  structure  (108  ft.  wide  by  198  ft.  deep)  with  its  immensely  heavy 
labled  roof  (upheld  by  136  pillars)  marked  by  a  ridge  in  the  style 
shwnoku,  from  its  resemblance  to  the  wooden  hammer  used  by  the 
ist  priests  to  strike  a  bell  employed  in  their  religious  services.  The 
rafters  (said  to  have  been  used  in  constructing  the  temple)  are  sym- 
f  the  number  of  characters  in  the  Chinese  version  of  the  Buddhist 
res.  Many  of  these  arc  needed  to  bear  the  weight  of  the  ponderous  roof, 
s  marked  by  an  intricate  and  puzzling  system  of  compound  brackets 
by  time  and  the  elements  to  a  rich,  bronze  brown.  Quaint  wind-bells 
om  the  corners  and  tinkle  in  response  to  the  wind  that  sighs  through 
iy  trees.  The  shingles  are  laid  on  a  foot  or  more  thick,  after  the  at- 
3  manner  of  the  roofs  of  wealthy  Shint6  shrines, 
outer  part  of  the  great  central  nave  with  its  two  lateral  aisles  resem- 
lismantled  junk-shop,  so  littered  is  it  with  huge  drums  and  relics  of 
I  sorts.  The  high,  dark,  coffered  ceiling  with  its  sunken  panels,  each 
1  with  a  16-petal  chrysanthemum,  —  in  token  of  the  Imperial  patron- 
imparts  a  gloomy,  even  dismal,  aspect  to  it,  and  this  is  heightened 
pigeon-defiled  metal  lanterns  which  pend  at  every  available  point 
le  rafters.  The  side  altars  flanking  the  aisles  contain  a  trashy  lot  ot 
Ics  on  a  par  with  the  big  seated  figures  of  the  Regent  of  HeVl',  \>\i<e  das^ 
Biwsuru;  of  Buddha,  and  other  lights  that  OQOupy  the  bxooA  txat^^' 


80    RoyJtee.  NOJmi   LAKE 

Midway  of  this  is  a  vast  wire  screen  reaching  from  floor  to  roof #  to  whidi  an 
tied  man^  locks  of  hair  and  other  dubious  and  unclean  mementoes.  AajunA 
the  opposite  panels  f  ormixiff  the  architrave  are  many  large  and  small  uuiea 
illustrating  the  terrestrial  manifestations  of  Kwannon;  immeimB  f^dsd 
Buddhas  sit  in  the  loggias  at  the  right  and  left.  The  paneled  ceilLD^  <tf  the  saiw- 
tum  (shoes  must  be  removed),  as  well  as  the  curtains  adorning  it,  are  deco- 
rated with  crests,  prominent  among  them  the  frequently  recurring  swastika. 
An  elaborate  pagoda-Uke  shrine,  richly  and  intricately  decorated:  a  medley 
of  metal  fitments,  gongs,  dnuns,  sutra-boxes,  and  huge  gilt  c<Mumns,  are 
features  of  this  room,  at  the  left  of  which  is  a  strikingly  attractive  reliquaiy 
containing  a  seated  Buddha  backed  by  a  gilded  mandorla  that  suflnsts 
Borromenisco  work,  with  its  exquisitely  carved  scrolls  in  low  relief.  Bur- 
rounding  the  Buddha  are  a  host  of  wonderfully  lifelike  and  eocoellentl:^  aoii]^ 
tured  figurines  of  demons  and  saints  in  high  relief;  a  mysterious  and  impfea- 
sive  ensemble  radiating  mysticism  and  work  of  a  high  order.  Inunediatdy 
at  the  right  of  this  is  the  Holy  of  Holies  with  the  shrine  in  which  the 
sacrosanct  gold  trinity  is  kept.  A  somber  curtain  stamped  with  a  gold 
dragon  breathing  crimson  flames  screens  the  outer  case,  which  may  be  aaeii 
on  payment  of  a  small  fee. 

Before  leaving  the  temple  visitors  usually  ^o  through  the  Nauin  Mau,  a 

gallery  beneath  the  floor  enveloped  in  Stygian  darkness.  The  entrance  is 
own  a  few  steps  at  the  extreme  right  of  the  high  altar.  The  inky  blaok  pas- 
sageway is  clean  of  all  obstruction,  is  sheathed  with  smooth  boards  (no 
spUnters)  and  is  about  6  ft.  high  and  as  many  broad.  For  2  min.  tx  more  one 
gropes  aloELg  to  a  point  about  |  of  the  way,  where,  at  the  right,  on  a  level  with 
the  hand,  is  a  cow-bell  which  one  rings  to  prove  that  the  circuit  has  been 
made.  Three  times  round  is  supposed  to  provide  eternal  fire  insurance  for 
the  sinful.  Pilgrims  make  the  cheap  and  safe  journey  with  great  eacemess! 
The  exit  is  through  the  entrance.  —  At  the  back  of  the  temple  is  a  ohain  of 
pretty  lakelets,  and  at  the  right  a  floweiy  garden.  The  traveler  wHl  be  amply 
repaid  by  following  the  road  leading  right  from  the  temple  entrance,  tiienoe 
over  the  brow  of  the  hill.  The  view  which  rewards  one  is  stupoodous  in 
its  magnitude;  hundreds  of  square  miles  of  valley  and  rugged  mts.  stretch 
below  and  against  the  horizon  and  emphasize  the  elevation  on  which  one 
stands.  The  attractive  structure  at  the  ri^ht  of  the  path  here  is  a  native 
club,  the  Jozan-kwan,  from  the  large  reception  room  of  which  one  also  com- 
mands an  extraordinarily  extensive  vista.  The  two  small  temples  seen  in  the 
foreground  are  not  worth  visiting.  — The  great  earthquake  of  1847  almost 
ruined  Nagano;  the  Zenkdji  was  badly  shaken,  and  the  big  bell  which  now 
hangs  in  the  belfry  fell  from  its  position  at  the  left  of  the  entrance  and  made 
the  big  dent  still  visible  in  the  pillar.  The  quake  was  immediately  followed 
by  a  ^-e  that  destroyed  many  hundreds  of  houses;  20,000  people  an  said  to 
have  been  killed  in  the  neighborhood. 

From  Nagano  the  rly.  runs  N.W.  across  the  fertile  and 
practically  level  valley  of  the  Shinano-gawa  to  (1197  ft.) 
ToyonOj  where  it  begins  to  climb  to  145  M.  Mure  (1682  ft.). 
The  country  is  broken,  with  tall  mts.  at  the  left;  the  Takixawa 
River  and  two  tunnels  are  passed  before  152  M.  KoBhiwabara 
(2304  ft.)  is  readied.  The  old  town  (1  M.  to  the  left)  stands  on 
a  wide  sweep  of  country,  2  M.  from  the  pretty  Ncjiri  Lake 
(2  M.  long  from  E.  to  W.) — a  resort  for  wild  fowl.  Tlie  reeion 
is  a  vast  watershed,  and  hence  onward  all  streams  flow  w7  to 
the  Japan  Sea.  The  climate  changes  in  accordance  and  long 
lines  of  snow-sheds  flank  the  rly.  but  fail  sometimes  to  guara 
it  from  the  great  drifts  (8-10  ft.  deep)  which  accumulate  here 
to  be  protected  by  the  environing  mts.  162  M.  Ttiffueki 
(1774  ft.)  is  the  point  of  departure  for  the  (3i  M.  to  the  W.) 
Akakura  Hot  Springs  (Inn:  KogakurOf  ¥2),  a  popular  native 
resort.   A  deep  gorge  now  flanks  the  rly.  on  the  rigjii  and 


Japan  Sea.  NAOETSU  6.  Route.    81 

affords  awe-inspiring  views.  The  train  races  downward  over 
a  sh^rp  grade  through  several  uninteresting  stations  to  176 
M.  TaktuUi  (140  ft.)»  a  spruce-looking  town  in  Echigo  Prov- 
ince (Inn:  Kyoean^kwan,  ¥2.50),  with  a  military  baixack, 
and  a  new  and  attractive  Shintd  shrine  visible  from  the  left  of 
the  train.  Snow  often  lies  10  ft.  deep  in  the  sts.,  and  to  permit 
the  people  to  move  about,  the  high,  peaked-roof  houses  are 
built  with  connecting  porches  or  cloisters,  like  the  poriales 
of  a  Spanish  town.  This  style  of  architecture  is  common  in 
the  region  beyond,  the  houses  being  long  and  narrow,  with 
the  narrowest  part  facing  the  st. 

182  M.  Naobtsu,  109  ft.  above  the  sea  (visible  in  the  dis- 
tance), is  the  junction  of  the  West  Coast  Line  (Rte.  p  32),  which 
comes  in  from  the  S.,  and  which  links  the  district  with  Tsuruga, 
KyotOy  and  other  ports  and  cities  of  W.  Japan.  The  placid 
Arakawa  flows  near  it,  and  the  junks  which  come  in  from  the 
sea  on  its  broad  bosom  carry  to  distant  ports  much  of  the  oil 
for  which  the  rich  Echigo  Province  is  celebrated.  (Inn: 
Matavbor-kwan,  ¥2.50.)  A  specialty  of  the  town  is  a  sticky, 
honey-like  amber  liquid  called  aworamej  made  of  millet  and 
sold  (small  round  boxes,  10  8en)  at  the  rly.  station.  The  Tem- 
ple of  Gochi'Nyoraiy  about  1  M.  to  the  S.W.,  is  uninterest- 
ing. Oil  is  the  shibboleth  of  the  region,  and  tank-cars  and  oil- 
trains  clutter  the  station-yard. 

The  rly.  (known  formerly  as  the  Hokuyetsu  Line)  now 
bears  to  the  N.  and  for  many  miles  skirts  the  shore  of  the 
lovely  Japan  Sea,  affording  charming  views  of  this  on  the 
left  and  of  the  lofty  mts.  of  Echigo  on  the  right.  The  Arakaway 
then  the  Hokuragaway  are  crossed,  and  after  194  M.  Hatsu- 
mki  eight  tunnels  are  threaded  (through  Yone-yamd)y  the 
longest  1450  ft.  The  imimportant  stations  look  solitary  and 
as  poor  es  the  straw  huts  one  sees  on  the  silent  beach.  Rugged 
and  densely  wooded  promontories  come  down  to  the  sea;  a 
solitary  steamer  wending  its  way  up  to  the  Siberian  port  of 
Vladivostok,  down  to  Tsuruga  or  the  China  Sea,  or  two  or 
three  lone  fishing-boats,  are  all  one  descries  on  this  silent, 
back-yard  Sea  of  Japan  —  the  aqueous  buffer  which  separates 
the  joyous  islands  of  Nippon  from  the  forbidding  steppes  of 
the  Great  White  Tsar.  It  is  strangely  deserted,  and  appears 
to  brood  in  melancholy;  but  like  the  misnamed  Pacific  it  can 
be  turbulent  enough  at  times.  The  shrieking  typhoon  whips 
it  in  summer,  and  rival  blizzards  roar  over  it  in  winter.  One 
notes  that  as  precautionary  measures  against  these  the 
straw  boat-houses;  the  flimsy  shacks  pathetically  called 
*home '  by  the  impoverished  fisher-folk;  the  piles  of  fuel, 
pine  cones  and  what-not  along  the  shore,  are  all  tied  down 
witfc  ropes,  like  some  of  the  houses  in  Kansas,  to  prevent 
espatriation.  A  tangled  mass  of  convolvuli  traWs  ovet  \)afc 
riufting  sand-dunes  and  adds  a  single  blotch  oi  eiAVvemw^ 


g2    Route  e.  THE  JAPAN  SEA 

color.  But  for  the  sounding  waves  which  break  and  die  on 
the  shingly  beach  or  burst  into  the  rooky  caverns  of  the  cliffs, 
the  scenery  would  be  too  severe  to  be  attractive.  Many  tooIgb 
dangerous  to  inshore  navigation  raise  their  brown  backs  above 
the  blue  water,  and  all  the  cliffs  seem  impregnated  with  iron. 
Sado  Island  looms  through  the  haze  at  the  N.W.  At  some 
points  the  sturdy  fisher-folk  —  the  women  as  strong  as  the 
men  —  use  the  big  caverns  in  the  cliffs  as  natural  harbors  for 
their  craft.  The  sea  yields  bream  (tai),  sole  (karei),  a  Idnd  of 
brill  or  mackerel  (hirame)j  repulsive  but  delectable  squid, 
and  myriad  marine  creatures  that  serve  the  natives  as  food 
and  manure.  The  yards  of  the  more  pretentious  houses  re- 
aemble  corrals,  as  pine  saplings  tied  with  withes  are  used  as 
fence-posts  and  rails. 

202  M.  KashiwazaM  (Inn:  IwaUh-yay  ¥2),  a  large  town 
sprawling  along  the  shore,  makes  a  specialty  of  the  hentd  sold 
at  the  station  and  much  liked  by  native  travelers.  The  fish 
and  rice  which  in  part  compose  it  are  good,  but  foreigners 
are  apt  to  avoid  the  tiny  pickled  octopi  contained  in  it.  Many 
oil-tanks  dot  the  environs,  and  considerable  oil  is  produced  in 
the  surrounding  country.  The  rly.  now  bears  to  the  right  and 
runs  E.  through  a  densely  wooded  region  to  214  M.  Tavka- 
yamay  whence  it  resumes  its  N.  course.  Significant  features 
of  the  view  are  the  small  herds  of  Holstein  cattle,  unknown 
in  the  days  of  Old  Japan  and  still  noteworthy  because  of  their 
rarity.    Here  as  elsewhere  in  the  island  milk  (gyvr^nyH)  is  fast 

becoming  a  necessary  food.    From  219  M.  Raikdji,  a  branch 

rly.  is  in  process  of  construction  to  the  near-by  town  of  Koaen 

daniy  and  will  eventually  skirt  the  base  of  the  lofty  Shumon 

dakcy  visible  at  the  far  right.    The  great  staple  of  the  low 

land  country  is  rice,  and  the  wide  paddies  are  laid  out  in  a-^ 
multiplicity  of  patterns,  ranging  from  plots  a  few  feet.square^^ 
to  others  acres  in  extent;  all  are  carefully  separated  from  one^ 

another  by  small  mud  dykes  or  ridges  pierced  by  iduiceways 

The  SugawGy  then  the  broad  Shinano  River  are  crossed,  me^ 
latter  on  a  6-span  steel  bridge.  Many  rafts  of  logs  float  down,  « 
and  many  picturesque  and  stately  junks  sail  up  its  sluggish.^ 
current,  the  latter  making  unusually  pretty  pictures  ^^en  M 
seen  from  afar,  with  the  white  sails  only  showing  above  the  '^ 
green  foliage.    Many  bicycles  spin  along  the  country  itMuls,   « 
which  are  practicable  for  autos.    The  people  hereabout  pre-  • 
pare  for  the  severe  winters  by  putting  up  along  the  sea  aspect   • 
of  their  dwellings,  at  distances  of  3  or  more  ft.  from  the  walls.     « 
tall  frameworks  or  lattices,  the  interstices  of  which  are  fillea 
in  with  brushwood,  moss,  etc.   Where  there  are  trees,  fences     • 
are  erected  between  them,  or  they  are  interlaced  and  formed 
into  a  protecting  wall  to  ward  off  the  winds  which  blow  with 
such  violence  that  steamer  travel  on  the  Japan  Sea  is  into*- 
rupted  at  times. 


Oa  Industry.  NAGAOKA  6.  Bouie.    88 

235  M.  Nagaoka  (Inns:  Masu-ya,  Seiyoken,  etc.,  ¥2.fi0) 
a  thriving  town  (pop.  36,000)  170  ft.  above  the  sea,  inEdiigo: 
2d  in  importance  to  Niigata  and  formerly  the  residence  of 
Makino,  a  faithful  feudal  adherent  of  the  Toktigawa  regime; 
played  a  prominent  part  in  the  war  for  the  Restoration  and 
was  practically  demoushed  in  consequence.  Long  cleated  poles 
and  rocks  hold  down  the  roofs  of  many  of  the  houses,  which 
are  provided  with  the  cloister-like  arcades  so  necessary  during 
the  heavy  winter  snows.  The  numerous  oil-wells  and  tall 
pumps  on  the  hillsides  remind  one  of  a  Pennsylvania  town. 
The  chief  wells  are  in  the  near-by  Higashi  hills,  and  the  re- 
fineries in  Nakajima. 

The  oil  indiutry  in  Japan  oentera  in  Echigo  Province  (which  supplies  90% 
of  the  petroleum  consumed)  and  particulariy  about  NcLgaoka.  Oil  was  known 
to  exist  here  200  jrrs.  ago,  but  the  first  well  was  not  put  down  until  1818.  In 
1876  an  American  geologist  in  the  employ  of  the  Japanese  Gov't  visited  the 
region  and  made  a  report  on  the  fields,  but  the  industry  produced  but  Uttle 
results  until  about  1800,  when  it  assimied  noteworthy  proportions.     The 

?;eological  formation  of  the  fields  is  similar  to  that  of  ouier  countries,  and 
oreign  practice  is  employed  in  the  matter  of  wells,  refineries,  etc.  —  Echigo 


is  noted  for  its  prettv  women,  its  rich  farmers,  the  number  of  emigrants  which 
go  to  other  parts  of  Japan  sjui  to  foreign  countries;  for  the  courtesy  of  its 
people  and  for  its  ShxahinMX  performers  —  a  dance  executed  by  men  or  boys 
wearing  a  thiihirifaahirat  or  Uon-head  mask,  lacquered  and  painted  red. 

239  M.  Sanjo;  a  big  stratum  of  gas  is  supposed  to  underlie 
the  region  hereabout,  as  in  some  places  gas  Dubbles  up  through 
the  soU  and  is  utilized  by  the  peasantry  for  lighting  and  cook- 
ing. About  15  M.  to  the  S.E.  lies  the  small  summer  resort  of 
Yagif  near  the  Igarashi  Rivera  with  some  picturesque  scenery. 
10  M.  farther  on,  at  Yoshv-ga-hiray  is  a  lake  1350  ft.  above  sea- 
level  with  a  boiling  spring  in  its  center.  Fine  groves  of  bam- 
boos and  cr3rptomerias  now  become  features  in  the  landscape, 
and  petroleum  wells  mark  the  near-by  hills.  A  number  of 
these  cluster  about  (255  M.)  NiitsUy  where  there  are  also 
several  big  tanks.  Acres  hereabout  are  devoted  to  p6ar  cul- 
ture. The  Koaka  River  is  crossed  to  Kameda  station,  then 
an  arm  of  it  to  264  M.  Nuttariy  the  sometime  terminus  of  the 
rly.  For  a  short  distance  the  rly.  skirts  the  Shinanchgawa 
which  here  is  about  as  wide  as  the  Ohio  at  Cincinnati. 

266  M.  Niigata  (population  62,000),  capital  of  Niigata  Pre- 
fecture and  Echigo  Province,  with  12,000  houses,  many  of 
them  picturesque  and  curiously  constructed,  stands  on  a  sand- 
spit  between  the  Shinano  River  and  the  Japan  Sea.  The  flat, 
clean,  and  attractive  city  was  one  of  the  first  ports  opened 
(in  1869)  to  foreign  trade,  and  at  that  time  was  regarded  as  one 
of  the  quaintest  towns  on  the  W.  coast.  While  advanced  archi- 
tectural ideas  have  changed  many  of  the  primitive  features, 
others  remain.  Formerly  the  majority  of  the  houses  wiere 
long  and  narrow,  with  peaked,  gabled  roofs;  the  narrowest 
part,  facing  the  st.,  being  provided  with  portals  aa  a  v^o\.^^- 
tlon  against  the  summer  sun  and  the  winter  sno^e.  T\i&^^ 


k 


84    Route  €.  N2IGATA 

have  now  shrunk  to  iinuaually  wide  ov  „        _.. 

Herva  to  prevent  the  anow  from  sifting  through  the  shoji.  T^ 
new  gov't  buildings,  the  banks,  and  other  semi-foteign  hoiun, 
rank  with  those  of  other  Japanese  cities.  Many  canals  inl«- 
sect  the  eity,  and  are  overhung  with  weeping-willow  tme. 
When  the  tide  makes  in,  lines  of  mediieval  juakH  ply  itn  ud 
down  the  shaded  surface  of  the  streams;  receive  ana  dis- 
charge cargo  at  the  very  doors  of  the  warerooms;  and  iHall 
certain  Netherland  towns.  Jan.  is  the  coldest  month  and  Aug. 
the  hottest.  Despite  its  more  N.  situation,  and  the  prevalfflM 
of  heavy  snows,  the  temperature  varies  but  little  from  (Ih( 
of  Tokyo,  the  altitude  of  the  barometer  being  25.6".  Th 
city  stands  in  lat.  37°  SS'  N.  and  in  long.  139°  03'  E.  d 
Greenwich,  and  is  therefore  in  practically  the  same  lat.  u 
San  Francisco  and  Lisbon. 

A  wide  /ODt-bridgu,  tho  BoKdn  •  Baski,  or  '  Myriad  Aew   BridgB '  (*» 

pfDpor  with  the  iW.  Hlation.  Jin^ia  ore  tilt  chief  mediunis  of  oonvcy»BM, 
the  omulbusBg  beiDS  usimlly  throngeil  with  nstivei^  [ace  to  the  tsalattin 
city  (Ifi  mln.  walk).  IS  len.  tuna  (iHiinD.a.  miT);  Shiaiiia.  overiaakiiw  U* 
river.  3  min.  left  of  tbo  city  tenninua  ufthe  bridEe;  ¥3.fiO  to  ¥4,  ODfuidl^  U 
Ingsttoo  Dtrooma  (upper  moms  preferabhi).  The  5umiv<itM-ta  is  at  Nat, 
FaromAchJ-  LugKSAe  can  be  talcen  io  &  iiiuiki  at  ^la  naular  l&^nt  imla. 

The  rty.  ILie^^ch  nuu  E.  from  Che  eubuibim  tawa  ol  JViiMu  eoiuMU 
with  K6nyrima,  ao  imporCanC  JfTt.  io  Rtfi.  18.  Travelara  to  N.  Ji^hul  or 
thuae  who  wish  to  ncum  la  Takyo  by  a  dUToroat  louts  may  elocC  tolatk* 
XiuM  road,  vhiah  wxs  through  hig-hly  piotureiique  axaety.  The  Urv  vlnofa 
runa  N.  to  IS  M.  Shibata  is  under  couBtruetioD  oud  will  eventually  be  bgdlt  U 
Sotnla  (RU.  IS). 

CuoBtiiig  BEeauera  of  tlie  Otani-Vladivoiilok  l4ue  of  the  Otahi  SIbh 
Kaitha  <uJl  eaoh  week  at  Niiaata  (io  tlie  euuuDor  saofion)  and  aaiiBen  Ih 
port  with  Amnon  (fnie,  ¥14).  HakndaU  (¥14).  and  VladitoMok  (¥3S.»; 
pnisports  Hcemaary,  onrnp,  p.  niv>.  Ebicv  (aae  below)  Is  a  port  of  nil.  Fur 
infamiBtioD  relating  (o  the  wialer  achedule  consult  the  (Nii^iCB  Agency) 
£a(/im»  Gothikniahat  Kami  OkawBmayiMlQri,  JubBDch5- 

The  river-front  is  one  of  the  most  animated  districU  oI 
NH^ata.  Long  lines  of  junks,  rafts,  etc.,  are  usually  lied  up 
near  the  bank;  whence  sma.ll  steamers  leave  tor  the  near-bj' 
Island  of  Sado.  Owing  to  the  violent  N.  winds,  navigati'iii 
over  the  shallow  bar  at  the  river  mouth  is  suspended  duriuf 
several  months  of  the  year,  at  which  time  only  small  cnfl 
con  come  up  to  the  city.  The  sand-dunes  which  border  thii 
on  the  W.,  and  which  exclude  the  sea-breeze  while  cuttiflg 
off  the  sea-view,  are  partially  covered  with  fantastic  piw 
trees  and  in  places  rise  to  a  height  of  50  or  more  tt.  Perehol 
along  the  ridge  are  signal  stations,  the  big  Normal  Schotd  witli 
its  adjacent  Red  Cross  Hospital,  and  a  number  of  dwelliiio- 
From  the  crests  of  the  hills  fine  views  are  obtainable  cf  Ssao 
Island  and  of  the  lofty  mts.  of  Echigo.  On  the  sIihk  of  (Ik 
hi^  hill  (called  Hakiiaan,  or  'White  Mt.')  at  the  8.  ctorf-J 
the  city,  ^ere  ia  a  restfu\  paik,  aome  ^irettj  trees,  aii4»P"'' — 
et^Dea  S/iinCd  ahrine  neat  an  e\a.VioraX]iiniOTiw'nw!n\i'"'* 
Tenad.  Coarse  lacquer-wa.rc  is  a.  a^ecitiXu  **  ^iir 
taade  in  handt&da  o£  hoiaea,  aloiut  ■«^.'ii>-  "™"*" 


YOKOHAMA  TO  IKAO.  7.  Rte.    85 

8«do  Idaitd  (Chinese:  Saahu),  17  M.  W.  of  Niigata,  in  the 
Japan  Sea,  beyond  a  deep  channel  (310  fathoms)  across  which 
the  local  steamers  (the  boats  of  the  Osaka  Shosen  Kaisha  are 
the  most  comfortable)  run  daily  (in  5  hrs.,  to  32  M.  Ebisu 
Minato.  ¥3, 1st.  cl.)  between  April  and  Oct.;  is  approximately 
32  M.  long  and  17  M.  wide  at  its  narrowest  point.  It  forms 
(338  sq.  M.)  a  division  of  Niigata  Prefecture;  has  about 
120,000  inhabs.,  and  is  conspicuous  for  2  mt.  ranges  (chiefly 
limestone)  whidi  overlook  a  cultivated  plain  with  large  bays 
at  the  N.E.  and  S.W.  extremes.  Kimpokusan  at  the  N.  rises 
to  a  heieht  of  3895  ft.  From  Ebisu  Minato  (Crab  Port),  a 
poor  and  unattractive  town  (Inn:  YamaffaUi-yay  ¥2)  at  the 
N.E.,  to  Aikawa  (chief  town  of  the  W.  side  of  the  island;  Inn: 
Takada-yay  ¥2),  is  about  16  M.  Just  before  reaching  Aikawa 
the  road  ascends  to  a  pass  500  ft.  above  the  sea-level.  The 
locally  famous  gold  and  silver  mines  (owned  and  operated  by 
the  Mitsu  Bishi  Co,  of  TokyS)  which  anciently  belonged  to, 
and  were  woriced  by  (forced  labor),  the  Tokugatva  shogunatef 
are  located  in  a  steep-w^ed  valley.  The  silver  sulphid,  native 
gold,  and  chalcopyrite  ores  are  found  in  quartz  lodes  in 
quartzite  veins  varying  from  3  to  18  ft.  in  thickness.  The 
amiual  output  of  gold  is  about  14,000  ounces;  silver,  115,000: 
copper,  50  tons.  Cattle-breeding  is  a  growing  industry,  ana 
the  island  supplies  many  of  the  mainland  cities  with  good  beef. 
In  the  early  days  Sado  was  a  sort  of  Botany  Bay  for  exiled 
criminals  and  other  undesirables  with  political  aspirations. 
The  militant  Nichiren  was  imprisoned  here  in  1271-72. 

7.  From  Yokohama  to  Ikao  and  Eusatsu. 

Ikao,  or  Ikaho,  a  beautiful  and  popular  summer  resort  in 
the  splendid  Ikao  Mts.,  2600  ft.  above  the  sea  (in  Kotsuke 
Province),  on  the  steep  northeastern  slope  of  Haruna-^an, 
7  hrs.  by  rail  from  Yokohama,  celebrated  for  its  fine,  bracing 
air;  its  many  hot  springs  which  gush  from  the  hills  and  plunge 
down  innumerable  gorges  to  the  lowlands,  its  charming  views, 
grand  old  forests  and  its  Imperial  Reserve,  is  one  of  the  most 
accessible  and  thoroughly  delightful  of  all  the  Japanese  hill- 
stations.  None  possess  more  diversified  scenery,  a  greater 
profusion  of  exquisite  wild  flowers,  a  more  picturesque  town, 
and  a  wider  range  of  interesting  walks  and  rides.  It  unites 
nearly  all  the  most  desirable  requisites  of  an  ideal  summer 
outing  place:  a  quaint,  clean,  comfortable,  non-luxurious, 
semi-foreign  hotel  (English  spoken),  where  good  food  is  given 
at  reasonable  prices  (one  replete  with  Japanese  charm,  and 
from  the  balconies  of  which  one  enjoys  one  of  the  most  mag- 
nificent prospects  in  nature);  a  comparative  immunity  from 
mosquitoes;  a  multiplicity  of  trails  leading  through  forest 
to  entrancing  peaks^  ferny  dells,  sparkling  brooks,  aiid  ^X/eidSSi- 


86    BaaJte  7.  IKKO  Flowen, 

ing  gorges;  and  a  gem  of  a  lake  (excellent  skating  in  winter) 
stocked  with  big  carp  and  trout.  Hard  by,  in  a  green  ana 
romantically  picturesque  gorge,  is  one  of  the  most  bisane 
temples  in  the  Empire.  The  entire  region  around  Ikao  m 
studded  with  roaring  waterfalls,  and  rent  by  deep  gor^  trom. 
which  steam  rises  incessantly.  Un  rainy  days,  when  this  hangs 
low  above  the  town,  it  imparts  a  decided  Plutonian  aspect  to 
it.  Hissing  hot  medicinal  water  straight  from  the  seething 
heart  of  the  adjacent  hills  is  piped  directly  into  the  many 
bath-houses,  there  to  be  tempered  by  cold  water  from  the 
same  hills.  The  town  is  built  on  a  series  of  terraces  reclaimed 
from  the  sloping  hillside;  and  the  main  st.,  Odori,  comprising 
a  score  or  more  flights  of  stone  steps  20  or  more  ft.  wide,  is 
one  of  the  quaintest  in  Japan.  The  air  is  crisp  in  April;  cool  in 
May;  delightful  in  June  (barring  the  rains);  and  cooler  in 
July  and  Aug.  than  one  finds  it  at  the  seashore.  The  season 
begins  usually  about  July  and  terminates  with  the  Oct.  (20th) 
festivals.  During  this  period  rooms  in  the  hotels  or  inns  fiuiould 
be  engaged  in  advance  (telephone  and  telegraph  connections). 
At  the  beginning  of  the  cold  winter  crowds  of  peasant  pilgrims 
begin  to  arrive  —  folks  who  aim  to  get  lower  rates  at  the  inns 
and  who  profess  to  believe  that  in  the  cold  weather  one  gets 
more  benefit  from  the  baths.  The  best  skating  on  Lake  Haruna 
is  in  Feb. 

In  the  vicinity  of  Ik€u>  the  hunter  (open  season  Oct.  1  to 
April  1)  will  find  copper  pheasants  {yamadori)j  quail  (udsura), 
wild  pigeons  (yamab(Uo)t  whose  booming  notes  ring  music^y 
through  the  green  woods;  green  pheasants  (Hji)  and  a  wide 
vapety  of  smaller  game.  The  flower-lover  will  find  so  many 
exquisite  flowers  growing  wild  that  he  will  be  reminded  of  the 
celebrated  region  roundabout  Cape  Town,  in  South  Africa, 
which  ships  tons  of  everlastings  each  year  to  England.  White 
magnoha;  the  PauLownia  Impericdis;  a  wealth  of  wistaria; 
azaleas;  Jack-in-the  pulpit;  white  dogwood;  spiraea;  Cherokee 
roses;  wild  hydrangea;  fox-lily;  rhododendrons:  colimibine; 
several  varieties  of  clematis,  iris,  and  lilies;  funkia;  peonies; 
several  rare  ferns,  and  a  host  of  other  flowers  grow  wild  in 
the  woods  and  dingles,  along  with  specimens  of  nearly  all  the 
trees  represented  in  the  Japanese  flora.  Owing  to  the  frequent 
rain  —  a  dampening  characteristic  of  most  of  Japan's  hill- 
stations —  every  inch  of  the  mt.  slopes  is  carpeted  with 
green,  while  the  deep  gorges  are  literally  choked  with  vigor- 
ous plant  life.  The  immensely  tall  cryptomerias  and  the 
lithe  pines  which  often  reach  up  the  sides  from  the  very  bot- 
toms of  the  cafions,  are  always  attractive,  but  particidarly  so 
when  they  are  interspersed  with  flowering  trees,  wild  rasp- 
berries, and  the  strong,  sinewy,  suffocating  wistaria  vines  — 
the  lianas  of  the  Japanese  woods.  The  frail  pretty  pink  flower 
wlu'ch  grows  80  profusely  in  the  interstices  of  the  massive  walls 


T'He  HalSpnngs.  IKAO  7.  Route.    87 

^^3roi]£^out  the  town  is  the  Saxijraga  sarmentoaa  (Japanese 
'^^d^naahita).    The  display  of  cherry  blossoms  in  April  is 

"The  riy.  from  Yokohama  to  (80  M.)  Takaaaki  (fare,  ¥3.08,  Ist  oL;  ¥1.85, 

^^  ia  deooribed  in  Rte.  6,  p.  65.  An  electric  trolley  runs  hence  (fare,  31 

^^)  to  (li  hrs.)  Shtintkawa,  where  a  change  must  be  inade  to  another  line  for 

^0M>.    The  station  at  Takaaaki  is  opposite  that  of  the  rly.j  luggage-porter, 

^  **H.    Tbe  rly.  oompanj^  sells  through  tickets  to  Ihio  and  will  check  baggage 

^St  destination,  thus  saving  one  the  trouble  of  looking  after  it  en  route.    At 

^*&ujbEitt»  the  earn  stop  in  front  of  a  tea-house  with  a  primitive  waiting-sta- 

^^}  the  denaha  for  Ikao  comes  up  the  main  st.  of  the  town  (oelebrat^  for 

naatU^  1  min.  to  the  left.  Cars  leave  at  intervals  of  1  hr.  and  climb  the  2000 

JPr(6  M.)  to  Ikao  in  another  hr.;  1st  cl.  fare,  63  aen;  2d  d.  (as  good  as  the 

^Bt),  41  ten  (return  fares,  48  and  31  aen  respectively).   Travelers  who  ap- 

^o^ch  Shibukatva  from  Tdkyd  by  way  of  Maebaahi  (74  M.  in  1|  hrs.;  fare, 

^l^sen)  wiSL  find  the  electric  car  waiting  at  the  station.  At  Shibukatoa  it  stops 

^^znin.  walk  from  the  /ikao  line.  The  climb  is  picturesque,  with  good  views; 

7^  ui&e  crosses  the  highway  from  time  to  time  —  a  shaded,  sigsag  forest  road 

^17^  which  many  travelers  prefer  to  walk  on  the  return.  The  12-15  inch  soil 


r^^ts  cm  a  thick  stratum  of  white  volcanic  ejecta,  the  outpouring  of  the  mts. 
H^  tixQes  past.  —  The  Ikao  station  is  10  min.  walk  below  the  town.  Hotd 
^jH^'^'ikl,  15  aen)  codttes  will  be  in  waiting  for  the  traveler  who  advises  in 
^SUice  of  his  arrivaL 

l^^'^tels  (comp.  p.  xziz).  Iktut  Hoteh  semi-foreign,  with  foreign  food,  good 
^tba  (free)  and  attendance;  from  ¥6  and  upward;  small  reduction  for  2 
1^?^  in  one  room;  special  rates  for  a  long  stay.^ —  Kogure  Budayu  Hotel, 
IT''^^-  There  are  40  or  more  native  inns,  rooms  in  which  can  be  had  for  ¥5 
^^oek,  and  a  special  price  arranged  for  food.  The  Chikira  has  fine  views. 

.  "^The  name  Ikaho  means  'High  Mountains/  and  is  derived 
jyp^  the  huge  Haruna  Range  rising  behind  it.  According  to 
r?®  local  tradition  (which  should  be  taken  with  a  grain  of  salt) 
S^®  springs  were  discovered  during  the  reign  of  the  (11th) 
^''^Jieror  Suinin  (b.c.  70-a.d.  70).  The  12  chief  families  (who 
^^•X®  adopted  for  their  crests  the  12  signs  of  the  zodiac)  trace 
T^^ir  lineage  to  famous  personages  of  the  6th  cent.  The  unin- 
F^^esting  Ikao  Jinja  on  a  terrace  (2716  ft.)  back  of  the  town 
^^timately  associated  with  the  early  history  of  the  place, 
^P  ^  the  present  (modern)  structure  is  said  to  stand  on  the  site 
^  oixe  erected  in  834.  The  large  Buddhist  temple,  the  Tensho^ 
^  ^I'ected  in  1583  on  the  site  of  the  present  schoolhouse,  was 
811?*^  during  the  last  decade.  The  Imperial  Preserve,  oppo- 
f^f^  "the  Ikcw  Hotelj  is  the  favorite  summer  retreat  of  a  Prince 
Q  tile  Imperial  Household.  The  Yachio  Park  and  Athletic 
^^^^rid  is  at  the  lower  end  of  the  town,  near  the  rly.  station. 

Pii^^^  chief  constituents  of  the  Ikao  springs  are  bicarbonate  of  calcium; 
c£|i^*\Qsium  and  ferric  oxide;  sulphate  of  oaldimi;  magnesium  and  sodium; 
iUj^*Vie  of  sodium}  silicic  acid  and  minor  solids.  Some  are  more  strongly 
Xjwf^Koated  with  iron  than  others,  and  some  are  decidedly  sulphuric. 
Jr*^  temperature  ranges  from  cold  to  113°F.  The  waters  run  out  of  the 
1^  jUi  little  clouds  of  steam,  through  open  conduits  or  into  bamboo  pipes,  a 
>licity  of  which  criss-cross  the  town  and  lead  into  the  different  houses. 

^       _jorge  at  Yumoto  is  stained  a  bright  yellow  by  the  precipitations  from 

Ci4[*^^ii  of  the  streams,  and  these  give  rise  to  a  valuable  local  industry  —  that 
«1^3^eing  cloth.  The  natives  believe  that  belts  saturated  with  the  metallic 
An^^^its  have  medicinal  qualities,  and  that  kimonoa  so  dyed  and  worn  ate 
||2^^^to  a  course  of  the  baths.  In  many  of  the  shops  small  bo\t&  (\4  m.  V\^^ 
^qO  long)  of  cotton  crape  of  different  patterns,  dyed  {ya,  TaJcosaki^  \]ti« 


^*« 


88    RoiUe  7.  IKAO  BMt. 

characteristiG  yellow  hue,  are  sold  0F1)  to  the  pilgrims  as  local  ptodiaodons. 
The  yellowish-bronze  sediment  is  cleared  out  of  the  pipes  twice  yeozly  and 
sold  to  dyers  and  to  those  persons  who  wish  to  benefit  by  the  Jiao  waimu 
but  cannot  come  to  them.  The  natives  bathe  in  the  a.m.,  at  noon,  and  after  I 

supper.  —  Other  specialties  of  the  town  are  turned  woodwork  articles  in  j..^ 

many  forms;  pretty  basket-work,  and  a  superfine  charcoal  made  from  the  \-^^ 

wood  of  the  Nara,  a  species  of  oak.  In  many  of  the  shops  will  be  seen  faisam  J   -^ 

and  distorted  specimens  of  petrified  wood  which  has  been  so  converted,  it  is  i 


said,  by  the  chemical  action  of  the  waters.  The  power  obtained  throum  the 
many  big  overshot  and  undershot  wheels  which  creak  all  over  the  piaoe  is 
used  to  turn  lathes  for  the  workers  in  wood.  ^  "^ 

Dozens  of  greater  and  lesser  peaks,  rounded  and  wooded  hills,  and  deep 
ravines  environ  the  town,  and^  from  the  crests  of  some  of  the  l^tier  mtn 
extensive  and  awe-inspiring  views  are  obtainable.    Because  of  wm&e  odd 
slant  in  the  native  mind  the  local  authorities  have  not  added  Rnglish  to  tiie 
many  guide-posts  which  point  the  way  about  the  region  to  those  who  eaa 
read  Japanese,  but  on  some  of  these  thoughtful  travelers  have  penciled  in- 
structions in  English  that  are  an  aid  to  the  pedestrian.  The  hills  are  grid- 
ironed  with  a  multiplicity  of  well-defined  trails,  and  the  author  has  tried  to 
make  his  observations  regarding  these  as  clear  as  possible.  The  visitor  idiosi 
time  is  limited  is  advised  to  take  with  him  on  his  rambles,  as  guide  and  eai^ 
rier,  one  of  the  native  boys  about  the  hotel;  as  a  rule  they  are  willing  to  give 
a  day's  service  for  50  sen,  and  certain  of  them  have  a  scattered  knoifHedgs 
of  the  lore  of  the  woods,  the  birds,  and  the  flowers.  The  Bibos  are  as  num- 
erous as  the  latter,  and  on  any  stroll  through  the  forest  one  will  see  cuokoo0 
{hototogiau);  lovely  Japanese  blue  flycatchers  (xuri);  woodpeckers  (Mteitf— 
9uki) ;  wagtails  (fiekirei) ;  bull-headed  shrikes  {nwzu) ;  Manchurian  great 
{ahijukara)\  Japan  ja;yrs  (Jcakeau)',   silver-eyes  {mejiro)',  the  sweet-throe 
xi^iau,  or  Japanese  mghtingale  (p.  ccii) ;  and  many  familiar  and  nnff^m^l^ 
buxis.    Beautiful  pheasants  rise  from  the  bamboo  grass  on  the  hill-el 
and  the  wild  pigeon  imparts  music  and  mysticism  to  the  cool  foreste. 
common  people  call  the  cuckoo  kakkodori  from  the  similarity  of  its  call 
the  word  kakko.  The  numerous  skylarks  {hibari)  are  of  a  species  known 
Alaiuia  japonica. 


Walks  and  Excursions  (sec  the  accompanying  map), 
are  enough  of  these  to  occupy  one's  time  for  weeks;  the  moeS' 
popular  only  are  described  below.  The  local  guides,  obtainabli 
through  the  hotel  management,  get  ¥1.20  a  day,  and  are  su; 
posed  to  provide  their  own  food,  besides  carrying  that  of 
employers.  The  woods  are  said  to  be  free  from  poison  i 
and  its  concomitant  miseries. 

To  (i  M.,  15  min.)  Yumoto  CSource  of  the  Hot  Water*)., 
picturesque  spot  back  of  the  town  whither  pilgrims  go  in  tin 
early  a.m.  to  drink  of  the  evil-tasting  water.    The  walk 
be  included  in  the  one  described  below.  Proceed  from  the 
to  the  main  st.,  turn  up  left  to  the  foot  of  the  steps  leading 
the  Ikao  Jinjay  then  bear  round  to  the  right  along  the  edge 
the   Yiisawa  ravine,  beneath  overhanging  cliffs  clothed  wi 
vegetation.   There  are  some  pretty  shops,  a  good  view  of 
gorge  (right),  and  a  quaint  bridge.    On  reaching  Uie  latter 
turn  abruptly  to  the  left  on  the  near  side,  and  follow  the  steam- 
ing hot  stream  to  its  source.  The  dell  is  romantically  and 
wildly  picturesque,  though  very  suggestive  of  the  sullen  de- 
moniacal forces  which  lie  but  a  few  yards  beneath  one's  feet. 
At  one  place  under  the  green  tunnel  there  are  seats  and  a 
dipper  —  the  latter  to  be  avoided.   The  water  tastes  of  iron 
and  is  unpalatable.    Scores  of  rills  rush  noisily  out  from 


i 


Bxewnicns.  lEAO  7^  BotOe,    80 

many  crevices  in  th6  hillside,  and  leave  yellow,  plushy  tracks 
where  they  have  passed. 

To  KoMPiBA-SAN  (or  Monokikt-yamaj  f  M.;  }  hr.  stiff  climb 
ov»r  a  good  road  beneath  trees),  Miharashi  (1  M.),  Mushtfa 
(3|  M.;  chair  for  the  round  trip,  ¥2.40),  and  Yumoto.  Koni' 
frira  is  the  name  of  a  deserted  shrine  10  min.  walk  down  left 
from  the  point  (beyond  the  bridge  and  post-ofl&ce)  where  one 
turns  off  the  main  road  and  begins  the  ascent  of  the  hill;  the 
path  is  well  defined,  with  stone  steps  at  intervals.  Keep  the 
rocky  gulch  at  the  right;  the  glades  are  lovely  and  primeval, 
and  usually  echo  to  the  cuckoo's  call.  At  the  summit  there  is 
a  tiny  shack  of  a  tea-house  oblivious  to  a  view  that  holds  one 
spellbound  by  its  immensity.  Far  below,  wriggling  along  the 
yaJley  floor  backed  by  towering  foothills  of  the  Nikko  Mts., 

SBB  the  Tone  River;  a  silvery  streak  which  farther  up  at  the 
t  is  stained  by  the  untidy  inflow  of  the  petulant  Agalsuma-' 
ifowa.  Cutting  the  E.  skyline  is  the  lofty  Tauktiba  Mt.,  rising 
2925  ft.  from  Hitachi  Province.  Akagi-san  (5000  ft.)  is  nearer, 
while  tnuling  away  at  the  left,  their  giant  ridges  threatening 
the  8^.  are  Komochi-yamaf  Onoko-yamay  and  a  halfnscore 
formidable  humps  and  cones,  with  Shiranesan  (7500  ft.) 
lording  it  above  them.  The  delighted  eye  takes  in  hundreds 
of  sq.  miles  of  valley  land  hemmed  in  by  bulky  hills,  planted 
to  various  grains  that  reflect  all  the  shades  of  green  from  that 
of  sprouting  rice  to  the  more  somber  hue  of  brooding  pine 
trees.  At  this  tea-house  one  may,  perchance  for  the  first 
time,  be  offered  a  teansubstitute  popular  throughout  Japan. 
It  is  made  of  parched  barley;  is  called  mugiyu  [mugi  is  a 
generic  term  for  barley,  wheat,  oats,  and  rye];  has  a  dark 
amber  tint;  a  taste  true  to  the  grain;  is  said  to  be  less  injuri- 
ous than  tea,  and  is  drunk  extensively  by  Japanese  soldiers. 
At  the  right  of  Kompira-aan  (path  at  the  left),  on  a  bold, 
bald  bluff  (20  min.  walk)  called  Miharashi^  one  may  enjoy 
aDother  remarkable  panorama.  Thither  the  trail  descends 
the  hill  at  the  right  and  soon  joins  the  long  path  winding  across 
the  slope  to  Mtishiya.  Notwithstanding  the  houses  of  this 
(uninteresting)  place  are  visible,  the  walk  is  deceptively  long 
(1  hr.),  as  the  last  portion  rounds  a  number  of  hills  and  incipi- 
ent ravines.  Midodorous  sulphurous  gases  issue  from  pipes 
stuck  in  the  groimd  and  supply  a  sort  of  cd  fresco  batn  for 
rheumatic  rustics.  Returning,  one  descends  into  the  ravine 
and  bears  round  to  the  left,  skirting  on  the  way  the  base  of  the 
twin  peaks  of  FtUatsu-dake  (chair  to  the  summit  and  return 
to  the  hotel,  ¥4.20).  A  20-min.  walk  brings  one  to  the  1st 
tea-house  on  the  Haruna  road,  whence  it  is  30  min.  back  to  the 
hotel.  Yumoto  can  be  included  in  this  trip,  the  whole  oi  'wYiic^i 
can  be  Accompliabed in  one  forenoon,  U  one  elects  to  TelviTii  \o 
tAe  hotel  from  Miharashi,  the  path  to  its  intersectioii  m\)a. 
isi/jTom  ^ompira-^an  should  be  followed,  thence  doYJUVJat^ 


r 
I 


90    Rouk  7.  IKAO 

for  20  min.  (keeping  the  ravine  on  the  left) 
Ikao  Jinja. 

To  the  Nnnae,  or  Seven-Fold  Cascade  (f  M.;  ohBT, 
¥1.60) ;  Bbntbn-daxi  (2j  M. ;  chair,  ¥2.40) ;  and  the  (neaivbl) 
Odaki  Cascadb  (chair  for  the  round  trip.  ¥3).  The  wfljkeaii 
be  made  IcisuTRly  in  about  2^  hrs.  and  allow  jhr.  for  a  net  tt 
each  place.  Descend  the  etepfl  of  the  main  at.  (picturMqM 
itrospcct)  to  the  bisecting  path  at  the  foot,  then  tun 


beneath  lines  of  immensely  tall  trees  rising  from  the  Hank  ol 
the  hill.  The  path  is  idyllic  and  recalls  certain  of  the  heavilj 
shaded  roads  through  the  Karlsbad  r^ion.  Beyond  tbeBUm- 
mit  of  the  ridge  the  trail  descends  abruptly  to  the  left ;  the  by- 
path leading  back  up  the  hill-side  goes  to  Baron  Kawaaaki'i 
country  villa  where  a  etga-board  forbids  admittance 'unlffl 
OD  business.'  A  few  minutes'  walk  down  the  charmingly  i^ 
recular  and  rocky  path  brings  one  to  a  series  of  pretty  o»- 
cades  seen  to  the  best  advantage  from  the  tea-house  facing  the 
lower  one.  As  we  shall  approach  this  later  from  below,  we  now 
cross  the  small  bridge  at  the  foot  of  the  first  fall  and  lUoib 
the  path,  at  the  left.  Fine  views  at  the  right  as  we  ehm) 
the  glades.  Many  lovely  flowers  and  some  wild  raspbrniei 
(yama-^ehigo)  grow  hereabout.  The  hamlet  at  the  far  t\^\, 
on  the  brink  of  the  stream  below  Odaki,  is  Yunokago.  Avoid- 
ing the  numerous  confusing  by-paths  which  branch  (o  1^ 
ri^t  we  follow  the  main  trail  as  it  bugs  the  hillside,  anoti 
descending  and  ascending,  trending  always  to  the  left  until 
the  roar  of  a  waterfall  is  borne  in  from  the  right.  The  lut 
path  that  leads  sharply  down  at  the  right  before  we  reach 
(16  min.)  Benlen-<laki,  must  be  returned  to  later  and  foUowsl 
to  Odaki.  The  long  steel  flume  below  the  waterfall  here  ma- 
duets  the  water  which  generates  the  electridty  used  tor  light- 
ing Ikao. 

The  Bhnten-daki  (Waterfall  of  the  Ooddeag  Benim),  abnul 
IS  ft.  wide  and  40  ft,  high,  stands  at  the  upper  end  of  a  rooky 
and  picturesque  gorge.  The  water  comes  from  Lake  Harwa. 
and  after  falling  with  a  dceifening  roar  into  a  turbulent  poal 
it  dashes  down  the  ravine  to  form  a  number  of  insignifioaM 
rapids  and  then  the  Odaki  ('Big  Fall').  The  inevitable  KB- 
house  with  its  highly  colored  sweets  and  insipid,  non-exhilant- 
ing  miiffiyu,  ahrowdly  extracts  the  customary  toll  (in  lieu  of 
fees)  by  occupying  practically  the  only  vantage  point  hen 
which  the  falls  can  lie  seen  satisfactorily.  Above,  on  a  con- 
aiderably  higher  level,  is  a  foot-path  which  leads  (aboiil  3  his. 
goin^up;  leas  retumiog)  to  the  head  of  Lake  HantiM.  —  R*- 
turning  along  the  tnul  to  the  fiiat  \>^-^tti  at  llw.  Wt  (W 

narrow  that  it  resembles  a  watetcoiHSB^,  &  ^mr?  Vi  w&. 

degceat  is  oude  between  oveib£u^n%  ^s«^  ^  ^^ 


HanmaJinja.  LAKE  HARUNA  7.  BmOe.    91 

Seotions  of  the  path  beyond  to  Yunokago  village  are  a  bit 
roug^hish  and  are  not  much  liked  by  ladies;  for  some  distance 
the  trail  is  indistinct  and  leads  throu^  the  river-bed  (ri^t). 
After  tlie  woods-path  is  picked,  up  again,  a  slight  climb  bnngs 
one  to  the  rather  insignificant  Odakii&ll  (20  ft.;  50  ft.  across). 
The  village  is  a  few  yards  farther  down  the  stream.  Instead  of 
desc^iding  to  it,  we  turn  up  at  the  right  to  (5  min.)  another 
path  (leading  right)  which  should  not  be  followed.  The  main 
trail  continues  (5  min.)  to  a  deserted  shrine  at  the  upper  end 
(right)  of  a  twin  line  of  splendid  cryptomerias  —  the  largest 
measuring  13  ft.  in  circumference  just  above  the  base.  Hence 
the  path  beam  round  to  the  right,  crosses  a  small  brook,  and 
reveals  the  Nanae  Cascade,  The  return  to  the  hotel  is  along 
the  trail  pursued  on  the  outward  journey. 

To  (6  M.)  Lake  Haruna  and  liie  (6i  M.)  Habuna  Jinja 
(horse,  ¥2.20;  chair,  ¥4.20).    A  beautiful  walk  to  which  a 
leisurely  dav  should  be  devoted.  The  first  \  is  along  a  steady 
incline  to  the  plateau;  the  2d,  a  gentle  descent  to  the  lake; 
and  the  last  lap,  an  abrupt  descent  (good  wide  road)  into  a 
Wild  and  romantically  beautiful  ravine  where  the  temple 
stands.  The  return  is  a  steady  45  min.  trudge  out  of  the  gorge : 
a  ffentle  uphill  walk  to  the  2d  tea-house;  thence  a  descent  of 
1  hr.  to  the  hotel.    The  whole  is  easiljr  equivalent  to  15  M. 
on  a  level.   The  views  from  the  mt.  ndges  are  glorious,  and 
the  lake  is  a  gem  of  beauty.  Steps  can  be  economized  by  tak- 
ing a  lad  from  the  hotel  (50  sen)  to  carry  the  luncheon  and 
t'ain-coats,  point  out  the  different  mt.  peaks,  and  set  the  right 
^ace  so  that  one  may  not  have  stiff  muscles  the  next  day. 
^y  starting  at  7  a.m.  (breakfast  can  be  had  as  earl^  as  one 
Xnsy  wish  it)  and  walking  methodically,  one  can  easily  reach 
t;he  temple  at  10;  2  hrs.  to  inspect  the  fine  carvings,  the  gorge, 
^nd  the  village;  then  a  leisurely  walk  of  1  hr.  will  bring  one 
tx>  the  tea-house  on  the  lake  shore.    The  luncheon  can  be 
t>ieced  out  here  with  hot  tea,  etc.,  and  by  ordering  this  sent 
to  the  back  veranda  one  may  enjoy  a  delightful  vista  of  water 
3=\nfl  mts. 

Beyond  Yumoto,  where  the  bridge  spanning  the  gorge  is 
fsrossed,  the  zigzag  road  (several  short  cuts)  leads  to  the  1st 
"tea-house.   Futatsu-dake  looms  up  bulkily  at  the  left,  and  the 
liills  resound  to  the  liquid  whistle  of  meadow-larks,  the  boom- 
ing note  of  wild  pigeons,  and  the  answering  call  of  the  cuckoo. 
In  summer  the  slopes  are  decked  with  a  glorious  display  of 
day-lilies;  on  rainy  days  one  passes  through  dense  clouds  of 
mist  that  fill  the  cafions  with  great  rolls  like  cotton-batting, 
and  hide  the  mts.  behind  an  impenetrable  veil.    The  vast, 
silent  upland  plain,  which  stretches  from  the  top  of  the  ridge 
and  the  2d  tea-house  to  the  shore  of  the  lake,  is  strangely 
beauUful.  Great  herds  of  cattle  coujd  be  pastured  in  the  de€\> 
that  grows  unchecked  and  uncut  on  its  g<eiit]ie  ^op^^ 


92    RoiUe  7.  LAKE  HARUNA  Hmnma  F^iL 

and  charming  pictures  could  be  painted  of  its  unforgettaUe 
views.  The  subngoil  is  volcanic  ash,  and  should  one  happen  to 
pass  here  (as  did  the  writer  on  one  of  his  trips  to  the  lake)  when 
the  distant  Yarigaiake  is  erupting,  and  the  wind  is  blowing  in 
the  right  direction,  one  will  experience  the  curious  sensation 
of  walking  beneath  a  steady  fail  of  fine  ashes.  On  the  other 
hand,  if  the  above  phenomenon  be  present  and  is  added  to  by 
rain,  one  will  be  reminded  of  similar  predicaments  in  towns  of 
N.  China,  when  the  sand  from  the  great  Loess  combines  in  ihe 
air  with  the  water  and  precipitates  a  fluid  mud  upon  the  just 
and  the  unjust. 

Harttna  Lake   (called  also    Kami  no  se,  and  Ikao-ho)» 
a  deep,  pear-shaped  body  of  water  approx.  4  M.  in  circum* 
ference,  is  thought  to  fill  the  crater  of  a  long-extinct  volcano, 
and  is  well  stocked  with  salmon  trout  (masu)  and  carp  (hoi). 
It  freezes  solidly  in  Feb.  (the  coldest  month  of  the  repion), 
and,  besides  affording  fine  fishing  and  skating,  supplies  ice  to 
Ikcu)  and  neighboring  points.    At  the  Kohantei  RestauuwU 
on  the  beach,  boats  can  be  had  at  50  sen  an  hr.,  along  with 
fishing-tackle  (tsuriddgu).  The  fish  sometimes  attain  to  a  good 
size  (5  lbs.;  18  in.  long)  and  afford  good  sport  for  line  fisher- 
men; the  catch  can  be  cooked  to  order  in  the  restaurant.  TbfB 
tall,  conical  peak  at  the  right  of  the  lake  (1  hr.  to  the  roolq^ 
summit)  is  the  Haruna  Fuji  (so  called  for  its  resemblance 
to  Fuji-san).  The  bold  cliff  at  the  left  of  it  is  EhosMgatake; 
the  one  farther  along,  Bingushi-yama;  and  the  odd  pumacks 
at  the  left,  Stizurigatake.   Beyond  the  tea-house  the  surplus 
water  of  the  lake  flows  through  a  tunnel  seen  after  crossing  the 
pass.  The  flat  patch  of  shore  land  at  the  edge  of  the  plain,  at 
the  right  as  one  approaches  the  lake,  is  beautiful  wiui  multi- 
color^ irises  in  summer.   From  the  meadow  end  of  the 
the  road  winds  along  the  base  of  the  hill  under  a  tunnel  of  l 
foliage.  On  the  near  side  of  the  restaurant  it  turns  up  sharply^ 
to  the  left  and  ascends  to  the  Tenjin  Pass  (1000  ft.  above  Ikao),^ 
flanked  on  both  sides  by  small  tea-houses.  From  one  side  heregg 
a  splendid  view  is  had  of  the  lake  and  the  surrounding  mts.y« 
and  from  the  other  an  equally  extensive  one  over  the  semi— — 
tropical  gorge  in  whose  lower  depths  the   Haruna  Temjde^ 
stands.  The  big  red  torii  under  which  we  pass  marks  the  rear  "^ 
entrance  to  its  domain.  The  gradual  descent  along  the  wind-  — 
ing,  well-kept  road,  over  quaint  bridges  spanning  plungiDg  "Z 
waterfalls,  with  alluring  vistas  ahead  and  constancy  rising    1 
mts.  behind,  is  beguiling.  The  precipitous  slopes  are  covered 
with  growing  things  which  the  wild  wistaria  and  honeysuckle 
bind  in  an  almost  impenetrable  jungle.  After  sampling  the  wild 
grapes  which  abound  one  is  usually  tempted  to  refer  to  them 
with  the  Cockney's  pronunciation  of  the  a. 

Three  hrs.  out  from  Ikcu)  one  passes  beneath  the  weather 
beaten  outer  gate  flanked  by  a  wooden  sign  depicting  two 


THE  HARUNA  TEMPLE     7.  BmUe.    03 

kets  crossed,  and  skirts  the  side  wall  of  the  terrace  leading  to 
the  inner  gate.  The  setting  of  the  structure  is  so  unique  tnat 
one  is  usutdly  unprepared  for  its  astonishingly  fantastic  appear- 
ance. Nothmg  in  Japan  is  quite  like  it,  and  it  bears  a  striking 
resemblance  to  pictures  of  gnome-land  or  the  hidden  glens  that 
Rip  Van  Winkle  saw  in  his  weird  dreams.  The  narrow  cation 
through  which  a  tumbling  torrent  (the  Numorogawa)  rushes  like 
some  wild  thing  flying  for  its  life,  is  choked  with  cryptomerias 
and  ChamcBcyparia  so  immense  and  so  tall  that  they  appear  to 
rise  for  a  thousand  feet  in  an  effort  to  reach  the  heat  and  light. 
To  trace  their  upward  passage  one  must  stand  still  and  throw 
the  head  far  back,  and  even  then  the  tops  are  scarcely  discern- 
ible. High  above  the  quaint  temple,  and  seemingly  ready  to 
topple  over  and  crush  it,  rise  moss-covered^  craggy,  granite 
spires,  ever-menacing  but  strangely  beautiful.  Across  the 
great  rift  in  the  earth  rises  the  opposite  wall  from  which  many 
of  the  original  trees  have  partly  detached  themselves,  and  as  if 
unable  longer  to  maintain  the  perpendicular  on  its  sheer  sides, 
hang  head  downward  awaiting  the  freshet  or  the  axe  that  will 
dislodge  them.  A  delightful  coolness  pervades  the  place,  and 
white-clad  pilgrims  glide  quietly  to  and  fro  in  a  setting  that 
any  artist  woifld  love  to  paint. 

A  tea-house  stands  on  the  edge  of  the  lowest  terrace,  while 
hi^er  up,  on  a  broader  one,  are  the  priests'  apartments.  From 
this  point  a  flight  of  stone  steps  leads  up  to  a  fine  gateway  in 
the  natural  wood  (keyoM)  witn  doors,  posts,  and  panels  (both 
sides)  covered  with  wood  carvings  (the  work  of  Myaguchi 
Genzaimon  in  18^)  so  noteworthy  in  detail,  so  broad  in  scope, 
and  so  effectively  presented  that  one  ungrudgingly  ranks  them 
jtmong  the  best  in  the  Empire.  Mythological  dragons,  impos- 
sible quadrupeds,  birds,  animals,  men  in  fighting  armor,  and 
waxriors  on  horseback  and  on  foot,  are  all  here  portrayed  in 
Idgh  and  low  relief  with  a  crispness  and  vigor  that  amaze  and 
Attract.  The  bronze  fitments  of  the  gateway  and  the  involved 
tlragon  rosettes  on  the  panels  of  the  doors  are  also  worth  noting. 
The  Temple  proper,  a  Shinto  structure  erected  in  1725  and 
dedicated  to  Homosvhi  (said  to  be  the  Shinto  God  of  Fire) 
Ckzid  to   HaniyasU'Hime  (Goddess   of  Earth  and   Growing 
•Things),  shows  the  effect  of  a  moist  situation  and  of  great 
age.    It  backs  up  squarely  against  a  sheer  rocky  wall,  in  the 
fiepths  of  which,  entered  through  gold-lacquered  doors  at  the 
l>ack  of  the  inner  shrine,  is  a  sacred  cave,  very  moist  and 
^oomy,  but  withal  too  sacred  to  be  profaned  by  ordinary 
^yes.    Here  centuries  ago  were  found  a  strangely  fashioned 
bronze  horse,  a  Chinese  metal  mirror,  and  other  things  pre- 
served in  the  reliquary,  but  which  the  amiable  bonzes  show 
with  beaming  faces  to  whosoever  is  genuinely  interested. 
Conspicuous  among  these  relics  are  some  sculptvit^d  ka\ce- 
\oiake,  or  Hanging  Buddlzas  (metal  disks  witheaxaeaxved  ^tin^iXi 


94    Rouie  7.     THE  HARUNA  VILLAGE     BotO^ifawrda. 

figures  of  Buddha  and  of  Kwannon) ;  some  Chinese  (or  Korettn) 
nickel  mirrors  made  more  than  a  thousand  years  ago  and  bear- 
ing a  striking  resemblance  to  those  in  the  Shoad^n  at  Nara:  a 
remarkably  preserved  sword  about  2  ft.  long  made  by  the 
celebrated  master  Okazabi  Maaamune  in  1330;  another  one 
forged  for  the  celebrated  MorinagorShinno  (1308-1335|  son 
of  the  Emperor  Go^Daigo),  and  a  number  of  minor  objeotOi 
The  big  sculptured  and  gilded  ascending  and  descending 
dragons  on  the  side  beams  of  the  porch  are  said  to  be  carved 
each  from  a  single  piece  of  wood.  Black  lacquer  and  gold  are 
the  prevailing  tones  of  the  interior.  The  60  panels  of  the  cof- 
fered ceiling  are  painted  with  flowers  and  winged  dragons;  the 
characters  adorning  the  circle  inclosing  the  four  central  ones 
represent  the  card^mal  points.  Around  the  inner  shrine  are 
some  painted  dragons  and  bold  carvings.  At  the  left  of  tiie 
temple  yard  is  a  much-prized  lantern  made  of  a  special  im- 
ported iron  ( Namhan-tetsu)  and  ascribed  to  Nitta  xoshi9ada. 
The  detached  buildings  contain  nothing  especially  interesting. 
The  tall  rock  at  the  left  of  the  gateway  is  called  Hc^co^wa 
(halberd  rock).  The  pinnacle  rocks  which  rise  in  such  gran- 
deur above  the  temple  all  bear  fanciful  names  — ThundeM3od 
Rock,  Armor  Rock,  Tortoise  Rock,  etc.  Of  the  thousands  of 
pilgrims  who  visit  the  temple  each  year,  many  come  during 
the  great  festivals  of  May  8-15. 

A  few  yards  below  the  temple,  on  the  near  side  of  the  (red) 
Bridge  of  the  Gods  (shinkyd)^  in  a  high  cliff  at  the  ri^t,  is  a 
cave  which  stood  formerly  at  the  rear  of  a  temple  erected  in  the 
14th  cent. ;  the  roof  marks  are  still  to  be  seen  against  the  wall. 
Farther  along  is  a  3-storied,  time-stained  pagoda.  The  flagged 
walk  is  pieced  out  by  stone  steps  as  it  descends  farther  into  the 
chasm,  across  which,  high  up  at  the  left,  is  a  curious  natural 
stone  aroh  called  KurakahiAwaj  or  Saddle  Rock.  Still  farther 
down  the  stream  is  a  huge  gateway,  and  beyond  it  a  big  bronse 
torn  marking  the  upper  end  of  Haruna  Village  {machi). 
This  is  referred  to  as  the  ni-no-toriiy  because  3  M.  farther  down 
is  another  big  wooden  one,  the  first.  In  years  gone  by  a  suc- 
cession of  torii  marked  the  17  M.  of  now  wretched  roadway  to 
Matsuida  (see  Rte.  6),  and  up  it  from  the  companion  temples 
at  Myogirsan  there  trudged  each  year  perhaps  3  times  the 
40,000  that  are  said*still  to  come  to  this  hoary  old  temple  to 
pray  to  its  divinities  for  good  crops  and  prosperous  times.  To 
aid  in  this  desideratum  each  pilgrim  brings  with  him  a  gourd  ^ 
which  he  fills  with  sanctified  water  to  take  back  and  scatter 
over  his  little  realty  holdings.  Near  the  2d  torii  are  the  ruins 
of  several  temples  that  were  in  their  prime  300  yrs.  before 
Columbus  discovered  America,  and  when  the  entire  gorge  was 

>  The  dried  bottle-gourds  (Ai/oton),  which  in  China  are  tied  to  the  bsdoi 
of  children  on  the  boats  to  assist  them  in  floating  If  they  should  fall  ayw' 
board,  are  common  in  Japan,  and  pilgrims  usually  carry  them  on 


Funao  Waiaf€il.     lEAO  TO  EUSATSU         7.  RmOe.    95 

a  scene  of  Buddhist  activity.  The  red,  metal-trimmed  brid^, 
the  moss-grown  stone  lanterns,  and  the  multiplicity  of  dis- 
mantled stone-work  are  relics  of  those  palmy  days.  The  rush- 
ing stream  that  seems  to  whisper  of  vanished  glory,  the  sing- 
ing birds,  the  lovely  flowers,  and  the  park-like  aspect  of  the 
sequestered  place,  so  many  miles  removed  from  the  strenuous 
world,  are  all  very  charming  and  restful. 

The  traveler  so  inclined  may  vary  the  return  trip  and 
lengthen  it  a  bit  by  diverging  from  the  main  trail  (right)  about 
midway  between  Haruna  Lake  and  the  2d  tea-house,  and  pro- 
ceed to  (4  M.)  Garamekiy  which  has  a  mineral  spring  and 
whence  the  shortest  way  back  to  Ikao  would  be  to  descend  the 
path  to  MushiyUf  thence  vi&  the  1st  tea-house,  or  over  the 
Miharaski  trail.  The  Futatsurdake  can  also  be  ascended  over 
one  of  the  several  clear  paths  to  the  summit.  Haruna  Fuji  is 
scalable,  and  a  guide  (¥1)  can  be  obtained  at  the  lakeside  tea- 
house. The  summit  is  not  so  needle-pointed  as  the  natives 
love  to  picture  it,  but  the  views  from  it  are  inspiring  and  are 
worth  the  climb.  Soma-yanui  (4850  ft.  above  the  sea,  2250 
above  Ikao),  the  highest  of  the  Haruna  peaks,  is  near  the  2d 
tea-house;  the  trail  is  clearly  defined  and  a  good  walker  can 
reach  the  base  in  25  min.  Another  i  hr.  of  stiffish  climbing 
(chains  fixed  in  the  rocks  help  one  over  the  worst  places)  wiU 
bring  him  to  the  summit,  whence  Fuji-yama  is  visible  at  the 
S.,  beyond  the  Chichibu  Range.  A  small  shrine  stands  at  the 
top,  and  to  this  many  devout  pilgrims  go  each  year,  usually 
vi&  the  considerably  harder  and  roughish  trail  from  Mushiyu, 
A  half-score  chains  and  a  ladder  help  one  to  the  top  on  this 
side,  but  a  g-eater  spiritual  reward  awaits  one  because  of  the 
increased  difficulties  of  the  ascent.  The  trip  from  Ikao  to  the 
summit  and  retmn  can  be  made  in  one  forenoon  by  getting  an 
early  start.  The  return  journey  can  be  varied  by  proceeding 
first  to  Benten-dakif  then  Odaki  and  the  Nanae  Cascades: 
also  vid  Mushiyu,  Mihara^hi,  and  Kompira-san, 

The  walk  down  to  the  (2 J  M.)  Mizubawa  Kwannon  Tem- 
ple (li  hr.  vid  the  Shihukawa  jinriki-road,  thence  through  the 
woods  at  the  base  of  Sengen-yama;  chair,  ¥2.40;  horse,  ¥1.30) 
will  not  repay  one  unless  time  hangs  heavily.  The  Buddhist 
temple  is  weather-beaten  and  as  uninteresting  as  the  idols  it 
contains.  Beyond  it  (2  M. ;  1  hr. ;  chair,  ¥2.60;  horse,  ¥1.60)  is 
the  attractive  Funao  Waterfall,  but  the  last  part  of  the  journey 
is  tiresome.  The  traveler  with  time  to  spare  will  find  the  walk 
down  the  old  highway  to  Shibukawa  prolific  in  panoramic 
views;  some  travelers  walk  this  (delightful  in  the  early  a.m.; 
time,  1  hr.)  on  leaving  Ikao,  and  send  their  luggage  down  in 
the  electric  car  (chair,  ¥2.60;  jinriki,  60  sen). 

Dcao  to  Kusatsu  (a  3-day  trip).  While  the  all-day  (30  M.) 
ride  in  a  tram-car,  hasha  and  ka^o,  is  apt  to  prove  a  bit  ^^Qltv- 
80016,  the  country  through  wMch  one  passes  is  magm^ceul  — 


96    Bfvute  7.  lEAO  TO  EUSATSU     Affottuma  Rmer. 

the  scenery  mnking  with  the  grand^t  in  the  Empire.  JSiiMtou, 
in  its  primeval  volcanic  setting  high-poised  in  the  EOtcnikeMtB., 
with  miUBually  interesting  hot  mineral  baths,  is  imique.  No 
place  is  just  like  it,  and  the  curious  phases  of  life  one  sees  these 
are  unforgettable.  While  one  quarter  of  the  town  is  crowded 
with  lepers,  the  visitor  need  have  no  fear  of  contagion  (possi- 
ble only  after  long  and  frequent  intercourse)  >  as  the  sulphurous 
(and  other  chemical  and  diabolical)  stenches  that  rdss  out 
from  the  seething  subterraneous  furnace  below  it  act  as  ooiv 
rectives  and  curatives.  Few  places  of  the  world  will  remind  one 
so  much  of  what  one  imagines  the  nether  world  to  be  like.  Tlhe 
hotel  is  clean  and  comfortable,  with  delightful  sulphur  baths. 

Several  routes  are  practicable  from  Ikao,  but  the  best,  easiest,  and  moat 
popular  is  by  electric  tram  (43  sen)  to  Shibukawat  thence  baaha  (p.  zoi)  to 
0F1.5O)  Tatsuishi,  and  from  there  up  the  winding  mt.  road  (kaffo,  ^.60: 
horae,  ¥1.50)  to  (5  M.)  Kiaatau.  Before  undertaking  the  trip  one  ahould 
have  the  manager  of  the  hotel  at  Ikao  telephone  to  Nakanajd  and  Kuaatan 
and  ascertain  if  the  road  is  open.  The  Agatauma  River  is  powerful  and  OMpii- 
oious,  and  is  subject  to  devastating  floods.  That  of  1910  wrecked  the  road  so 
badly  that  2  yrs.  were  required  to  put  it  back  into  commission.  When  it 
washes  out  the  bridges  the  traveler  is  obliged  to  ford  and  re-f oxd  the  river 
(wire-rope  ferries),  walk  long  stretches,  and  make  wide  d6toun  over  taUiah 
hills.  A  clear  day  is  necessary  to  the  full  enjoyment  of  the  mt.  views,  and  an 
early  start  is  advisable.  The  6.30  a.m.  tram-car  from  Ikao  reaches  ShibW' 
katoa  a  little  after  7,  and  the  baaha  leaves  (or  is  supj>osed  to  leave)  at  8.  Tlie 
horses  are  fed  with  such  frequency  ere  route  that  one  cannot  hope  to  raaoh 
Taiauiahi  before  6  p.  m.  (or  7),  and  the  walk  or  ride  thence  will  consiune  3 
hrs.  more.  Those  who  dislike  walking  should  telephone  ahead  to  the  hotd  at 
Kuaatau  and  ask  to  be  met  at  Tatsuishi  by  coolies,  ponies,  uid  a  hago  --> 
the  latter  very  uncomfortable  for  any  one  weighing  over  100  lbs.  Unlefls  one 
is  met  there,  a  ^uide  and  lanterns  should  be  taken  along,  as  the  road  through 
the  cafion  at  mght  is  of  a  blackness  similar  to  that  of  Erebua.  [The  haaka» 
are  expected  ultimately  to  make  Ktiaatsu  their  terminus.]  If  one  can  find  an 
idle  horse  in  Tatsuishi,  it  can  be  had  for  the  trip  for  75  sen.  If  there  axe  several 
in  the  party,  it  ia  advisable  to  hire  a  special  basha  from  Shibukavaa  0F8-1O), 
for  when  the  ordinary  vehicles  are  crammed  with  the  proletariat  they  are 
almost  as  uncomfortable  as  a  Black  Maria.  The  seat  up  near  the  driver  ia 
usually  the  most  sheltered  from  rain.  The  lurching  of  the  crude  conveyanoa 
is  apt  to  pitch  one  (particularly  when  drowsy)  out  from  the  rear  seatl 

By  telephoning  from  Ikao  to  the  hasha  baitingnstable  at 
Shibukawa,  a  boy  will  meet  the  Ikao  tram-car  and  carry  lug- 
gage to  the  stable  for  a  small  fee.  The  hasha  proceeds  to  the  N. 
end  of  the  town,  thence  to  Kanai  Village,  where  the  roarizig 
Agaisuma-^awa  is  crossed  to  the  shore  town  of  Koizawa,  At 
the  right  hereabout  the  Agatsuma  pours  its  cold  mt.  water 
into  that  of  the  Tone  River j  known  for  its  trout.  The  diverg- 
ing tramway  at  Koizatva  goes  to  Numata  and  forms  a  link  m 
the  trip  from  Nikko  hither  over  the  Konsei  Pass  (Rte.  16). 
Beyond  the  bridge  our  road  turns  abruptly  to  the  left  and  fol- 
lows the  river  almost  to  its  source  (near  Kusatsu),  Ikao  and 
the  commanding  summits  of  FtUatstirdake  are  soon  seen  perched 
high  in  the  nits,  at  the  far  left.  Although  the  highroaa  here  is 
good  enough  for  motor-cars,  the  instability  of  some  of  the 
bridges  farther  on  —  particularly  those  propped  on  bracketo 
against  the  granite  walls  high  above  the  swirling  river — alKNild 


Ndkanefd.  lEAO  TO  EUSATSU         7.  Rouie.    97 

make  the  motorist  think  twice  before  proceeding.  While  stout 
enoi^  to  bear  up  under  a  loaded  bwha  weigjiing  a  ton,  they 
might  collapse  under  a  2-ton  automobile.  In  the  springtime 
the  fields  by  the  wayside  are  brown  with  ripening  winter 
wheat,  which  contrasts  sharply  with  the  tender  green  of 
sprouting  rice,  the  more  somber  ^een  of  the  lofty  pines  which 
dothe  the  hillnalopes,  and  the  yet  richer  hues  of  the  omnipresent 
hemp  (plant  and  product  called  asa),  widely  cultivated  for 
its  fiber  (which  is  made  into  a  stout  linen).  The  power  gener- 
ated by  the  many  water-wheels  seen  along  the  route  is  used 
for  cleaning  rice  and  hullinp  wheat  and  buckwheat  (so&a), 
much  of  the  flour  of  which  is  made  into  a  kind  of  macaroni 
called  8oba  (and  sobahiri).  Hoses,  hydraneea,  spirsea,  honey- 
suckle, and  a  host  of  wild  flowers  deck  the  countryside  and 
enliven  the  humble  cottages  of  the  peasantry.  Striking  fea- 
tures of  the  highroad  are  the  swift  mail-carriers  one  sees  sprint- 
ing lightly  along  with  small  bundles  of  mail-matter  strapped 
to  their  shoulders,  or  piled  in  a  light  hand-cart  which  they  pull 
rapidly  after  them.  Tall  mts.  flank  the  entire  route  at  the 
right,  and  into  gashes  in  their  sides  the  road  winds  frequently, 
to  round  gulches  or  to  escape  the  undermining  effect  of  the 
greedy  river.  The  capricious  nature  of  this  has  necessitated 
massive  and  expensive  granite  revetments,  swinging  bridges 
suspended  by  coarse  wire,  and  miles  of  costly  riparian  work 
of  the  style  known  to  the  natives  as  'serpent-baskets,'  and 
r^erred  to  in  Rte.  25.  Even  these  do  not  prevent  the  rapacious 
waters  from  eating  deeply  into  the  paddy-fields  and  the  mul- 
berry plantations  that  flank  the  stream  on  its  opposite  bank. 
Adown  the  swift  current  one  sees  occasional  rafts  of  logs  that 
swing  round  the  wide  bends  with  grace  and  speed  and  shoot 
the  rapids  with  ease  and  safety. 

The  Nakanojo  baiting-station  is  usually  reached  about  10.30, 
and  as  the  Shibukawa  basha  turns  back  here,  the  traveler  must 
wait  (sometimes  2  hrs.)  for  the  corresponding  basha  to  come  in 
from  Tatsuishi.  The  time  can  be  passed  to  better  advantage 
in  one  of  the  several  tea-houses,  the  Takeno-ya  (where  the 
coach  stops),  the  Fukudaj  Nahe-yay  etc.  In  the  former  a  palat- 
able soup,  rice,  eggs,  tea,  and  'some  minor  native  dishes  are 
served  for  25  sen.  If  the  amiable  proprietor  quizzes  the  traveler 
as  to  his  destination,  etc.,  it  is  usually  with  the  laudable  inten- 
tion of  telephoning  ahead  to  the  hotel  manager  at  Kusatsu 
to  apprise  him  of  approaching  travelers  so  that  he  may  have 
horses  and  kagos  in  waiting  at  Tatsuishi,  Beyond  Nakanojo 
the  road  bears  to  the  left,  crosses  the  Yamada-gawa  (a  tribu- 
tary of  the  Agat8umar-gawa)f  and  continues  along  the  right 
biUDLk  of  the  latter.  Haramachi  (Inn :  Tachibanaj  ¥2)  is  reached 
about  1  P.M. ;  beyond  it  the  road  climbs  into  the  hills,  which  are 
marked  by  many  cascades  and  plunging  waterfalls.  ¥oi  \iVv& 
loBowing  3  hrs.  the  sceneiy  is  e:rt;raordinarily  grand*,  \>\iQ  losA 


98    Roule  7.    EAWARAYU  HOT  SPRINGS       TaimiaL 

rises  gradually  to  a  point  hundreds  of  feet  above  the  angry 
river,  which  anon  spreads  out  in  wide,  f an-shi4)ed  rapidSy  or 
tears  with  a  sullen  roar  through  deep  gorges  so  narrow  at  some 
places  that  a  goat  could  almost  spring  across  them.  Here 
Nature  shows  herself  in  one  of  her  wildest  and  most  unbridled 
moods.  With  every  mile  the  prospect  chang^;  at  times  the 
hills  slope  back  from  the  roadway,  showing  tiny  houses  uad 
shrines  perched  high  like  those  of  the  Austrian  Tyrol;  at  others 
they  rise  sheer  hundreds  of  feet,  and  the  creaking  stage-ooach 
has  to  crawl  gingerly  along  on  narrow  terraces  cut  from  their 
soggy  sides.  In  uie  angles  of  some  of  the  awe-inspiring  gulches 
the  hard  granite  has  so  repelled  encroachment  that  the  rids:ety 
wood  bridges  are  swung  on  stout  piano  wires  over  spaces  down 
which  one  looks  500  ft.  upon  miniature  Niagaras  or  alAnf.ing 
cascades.  Tremendous  rifts  in  the  earth's  crust,  awe-inspiring 
mts.,  dense  forests,  yawning  chasms,  and  fetching  views  mark 
the  road  to  a  point  (reached  about  4  p.m.)  where  a  foot-bridge 
spans  the  river  and  a  road  leads  left  to  (f  M.)  Kawarayu  Hot 
Springs  (Inn:  Kawarayuy  ¥2.50),  a  popular  and  highly  pic- 
turesque resort  perched  on  a  beautiful  and  lofty  terrace  above 
the  river.  Here  pedestrians  who  make  the  short-cut  overland 
trip  from  Ikao  to  Ktisatsu  usually  stop  for  the  night.  (Horse 
from  Ikao  and  return,  ¥5.)  Farther  along  another  bridge  leads 
across  to  the  town. 

The  river  now  broadens  and  we  traverse  a  tunnel  gouged 
through  a  rocky  scarp  with  a  perpendicular  drop  of  hundreds 
of  ft.  to  the  river  below.  The  stone  retaining-walls  hereabout 
are  50  or  more  ft.  high  and  were  built  at  great  expense.  Above 
this  splendidly  massive  work  is  thrown  a  suspension  bridge 
below  which  the  river  rushes  at  tremendous  speed.  Nagano^ 
hara  (Inn:  Otsu-ya,  ¥2),  7i  M.  from  KvsatsUf  is  reached  about 
5.20;  hence  to  Tatsuishi  the  road  is  fairly  level  and  uninterest- 
ing. The  poor  town  of  Tatsuishi  is  the  junction-point  of  the 
trail  from  Karuizawa  (p.  75).  A  limited  range  of  food  can  be 
had  at  the  inn,  where  the  basha  stops  (and  whence  it  starts 
back  to  Nakanojo  at  8  a.m.),  but  whosoever  plans  to  sleep  here 
in  order  to  climb  to  Kusatsu  by  daylight  must  be  equipped 
with  a  good  flea-powder  or.be  prepared  to  share  his  bed  with 
numerous  bizarre  and  biting  entomological  specimens.  Here 
the  side-road  to  Ktisatsu  goes  up  (N.)  the  gorge  at  the  right  — 
unless  washed  out  by  the  violent  torrent  which  rushes  down  it 
and  merges  its  muddy  waters  with  the  trickling  head-watere 
of  the  Agatsuma-gatva.  In  such  a  case  a  roundabout  trail  is  fol- 
lowed across  the  hills.  The  scenery  is  wild  and  picturesque. 
The  first  3  M.  are  between  the  high,  sloping  sides  of  the  caflon. 
which  are  densely  wooded,  fragrant  with  wild  flowers,  ana 
dotted  here  and  there  with  charcoal-burners'  huts.  The  wild 
wistaria  is  a  glory  in  early  June.  The  trend  is  steadily  upwaid. 
And  about  li  his,  out  from  Tatsuishi  the  road  emeigQi  from 


KUBATSU  HOT  SPRINGS     7.  Bouie.    09 

the  ravine  and  skirtB  a  series  of  tall  hills  at  the  left.  The  views 
aorosB  the  wide  country  at  the  right,  to  the  lofty  Shiranesanf 
are  splendid.  The  traveler  who  tnunps  downward  over  this 
trail  in  the  early  hours  of  a  spring  morning  will  be  charmed  by 
the  beauty  ana  brooding  solitude  of  the  place. 

Kusatsu  (4500  ft.)i  celebrated  for  its  hot  sulphur  springs, 
bears  practically  the  same  relation  to  North  Central  Japan 
that  the  Hot  Springs  of  Arkansas  do  to  the  Middle  West  of  the 
U.S.A.,  since  it  is  uie  rendezvous  for  rheumatics;  those  unfor- 
tunates aflSict^  with  the  dread  disease  which  No.  606  aimed 
to  cure;  lepers  and  other  physically  infirm  persons.  The  fas- 
tidious may  not  like  some  of  the  sights  they  will  witness  in  the 
baths  to  which  the  members  of  the  leper  colony  go,  but  these 
can  be  avoided.  The  small,  scattered  town  (more  like  the  re- 
sort of  the  'Old  Scratch'  himself  than  of  humans),  is  built  on 
the  sloping  sides  of  a  VHshaped  ravine  through  the  bottom  of 
which  flow  streams  of  steaming  water  that  paint  their  run- 
ways with  all  the  colors  of  the  spectrum,  and  distribute  a 
stench  which  delicate  nostrils  find  some  difficulty  in  aeeimilat- 
ing.  The  gulch  is  on  a  lofty  plateau  surrounded  by  plains  and 
hiUs  which  shut  in  the  town  in  such  a  way  that  one  enters  the 
upper  end  of  the  main  st.  almost  before  one  is  aware  of  its 
existemce.  On  moist,  lowering  days  clouds  of  steam  hang  over 
the  gor^e  and  impart  an  infernal  aspect  to  it.  Great  clouds  of 
steam  nse  from  the  baths  which  flank  the  central  sq[uare,  and 
when  one  approaches  this  at  night  the  scene  is  weird  in  the 
extreme. 

Hotels  (comp.  p.  xxix).  The  Shirane  Hotd  (English  spoken),  in  semi-foreign 
style,  stands  at  the  extreme  W.  end  of  the  town,  in  a  semicircle  of  hills  higher 
than  the  town  proper,  and  facing  a  gorge  down  which  rush  streams  of  scald- 
ing siilphiir  water.  This  water  is  piped  direct  into  the  hotel  baths,  which  are 
dean,  and  free  to  guests.  Rates  from  ¥5  a  day  and  upward.  Am.  pi.:  5% 
reduction  for  a  week  or  more.  A  small  room  by  the  month,  ¥4  a  day;  large 
nxnn,  ¥4.50;  Japanese  room  with  foreign  bed,  ¥3.50.  There  are  a  number  of 
inns  in  the  native  style,  but  they  are  apt  to  house  guests  (10,000  repair  hither 
annually)  with  whom  the  traveler  might  not  like  to  come  into  contact.  Rates 
from  ¥3  to  ¥3.50  a  day;  native  food.  —  Certain  of  these  hostelries  have 
elaborately  sculptured  facades  in  which  the  turtle  figures  as  a  symbol  of  the 
longevity  assured  by  the  cure. 

The  Hot  springs,  which  came  prominently  to  the  fore  in  the 
16th  cent,  and  which  range  in  temperature  from  about  75°  to 
160**  F,,  contain  a  large  percentage  of  sulphur,  alum,  iron, 
arsenic,  and  a  combination  of  mineral  acids,  and  are  much 
extoUed  for  their  curative  properties.  Some  of  the  cold  springs 
are  of  corrosively  acid  water.  All  issue  from  fissures  in  the  vol- 
canic breccia,  and  where  the  hottest  of  the  waters  run  down 
throu^  open  gulches  or  bamboo  pipes  to  the  primitive  bath- 
houses the  rocks  are  in  some  places  stained  vitriolic  blues,  bril- 
liant yellows  (with  thick  incrustations  of  flowers  of  sulphur), 
jade  greens,  and  copperas  streaks  that  present  a  bea\i\M\]\ 
i^^man^ce  when  the  sun  abines  upon  them.  In  the  pooAa  \h& 


100    RoiUe  7.     THE  KUSATSU  BATHS 

sulphur  flowers  cover  everything  several  milliineteiB  thick; 
many  of  the  near-by  rocks  are  hot  to  the  touch.  In  the  center 
of  the  town  the  steammg  water  is  led  into  wide  evaporating- 
pans  where  the  sulphur  deposits  are  collected.  The  sulphuiv 
etted  odors  which  rise  all  over  the  town  are  said  to  keep  nxMi- 
quitoes  and  noxious  insects- away  and  to  be  antiseptic  and  dis- 
infectant. The  town  records  show  that  the  place  is  remarkably 
free  from  infectious  diseases  other  than  those  brought  by  per- 
sons seeking  the  cure.  Nor  does  the  steam  which  floats  up 
constantly  m  many  quarters  appear  to  increase  the  summer 
temperature,  which  rarely  rises  above  80**  F.  Although  the 
winters  are  cold,  and  heavy  snows  lie  on  the  surrounding  mts. 
for  months  at  a  time,  snow  rarely  remains  long  in  Kusatsu,  as 
the  underground  rivulets  melt  it  quickly.  The  curative  proper- 
ties of  the  waters  are  said  to  be  remarkable,  and  whue  tney 
seem  to  have  no  effect  upon  leprosy  in  its  advanc^  stages, 
unfortunates  afflicted  with  the  pathogenic  organism  known  as 
Treponema  pallidum  appear  to  get  prompt  relief.  The  search- 
ing qualities  of  the  acids  in  the  waters  find  every  little  abrasion 
of  the  skin,  and  so  efficacious  are  they  in  healing  skin-diseases 
and  wounds  that  many  of  the  soldiers  injured  in  the  Japan- 
Russia  War  were  sent  here  by  the  Grov't  to  find  relief  and 
health.  Persons  afflicted  with  rheumatism  and  gout  are  cured 
of  them.  According  to  the  Japanese  proverb,  'I^ve  is  the  only 
grave  distemper  against  which  the  waters  of  KiLsatsu  can  effect 
nothing.' 

The  Baths,  scattered  all  over  the  small  town,  in  many  wasns 
are  the  most  interesting  in  Japan.  Their  average  temperature 
ranges  from  100®  to  118®,  but  in  certain  of  the  houses,  notably 
the  Netsu-no-yu  described  below,  the  coldest  bath  is  114®  and 
the  hottest  about  125°;  the  latter  are  the  promptest  in  their 
action  and  effect,  and  they  quickly  bring  out  blisters  on  the 
tenderest  parts  of  the  body.  To  avoid  these  the  timid  seek  the 
cooler  waters  —  which  are  best  adapted  to  those  with  weak 
hearts  and  lungs.  The  hot  baths  cause  palpitation  of  the  heart 

.  and  pronounced  lassitude,  but  the  latter  is  usually  offset  by 
the  tonic  crispness  of  the  mt.  air.  The  blisters  (winch  do  not 
come  unless  one  bathes  several  times  daily)  presage  their 
arrival  by  slight  fever  and  loss  of  appetite.  At  the  end  of  4-6 
weeks  they  become  red,  swell,  exude  pus,  and  then  h^.  The 
first  stage  of  the  cure  (10-14  days)  is  free  from  them.  It  is 
when  they  are  at  their  worst  (3d-5th  week)  that  the  unfortu- 
nate possessor  is  unable  to  walk  without  pain  and  is  the  sub- 
ject of  humorous  allusion  to  what  is  known  locally  as  the 
'Kusatsu  walk  '  —  a  ludicrously  inelegant  gait  which  must  be 
seen  to  be  appreciated.  As  the  chief  active  substances  in  some 
of  the  baths  are  free  sulphuric  acid  and  arsenic  that  bite  into 
the  suffering  flesh  like  hot  steel  pincers,  the  men  patients  move 

about  slowly  and  painfully,  witn  the  le^  well  apart;  idantinff 


Lepers.  THE  FEVER  BATH        7.  Route.    101 

first  one  foot  forward,  then  edging  the  other  and  the  torso 
round  to  it,  assisted  by  a  cane  and  facial  contortions.  The 
axillse  come  in  also  for  a  visitation  of  the  sores,  and  the  arms 
are  sometimes  held  wide  like  the  wings  of  a  vulture  drying  its 
feathers  in  the  sun.  Ointments  are  forbidden,  and  to  protect 
the  raw  and  stinging  blisters  from  too  virulent  attacks  of  the 
acid,  bathers  usually  swathe  them  tenderly  in  cotton  wool  — 
an  operation  performed  aujour  just  before  entering  the  bath. 
Great  fortituae  is  required  to  resist  the  inclination  to  discon- 
tinue the  baths  when  the  blisters  begin  to  appear,  for  the 
agony  produced  by  the  contact  of  the  acidulous  waters  is 
acute.  Even  the  stoic  Japanese  writhe  under  the  treatment. 
The  bather  who  once  gets  the  acrid  water  in  his  eyes  will  be 
willing  to  forego  a  repetition  of  it.  There  is  no  special  dietary 
regime,  and  no  medical  treatment  is  prescribed^  as  at  foreign 
spas.  Six  or  7  weeks  and  about  120  baths  constitute  the  cure; 
mild  diseases  require  from  3  to  5  baths  a  day;  serious  ones  from 
1  to  3  (3-5  min.  in  the  hot  water  each  time).  The  weak  condi- 
tion of  the  patient  usually  prevents  his  taking  exercise.  For- 
eigners should  seek  medical  advice  and  undergo  a  physical 
examination  b^ore  attempting  the  more  powerful  baths. 
Persons  who  have  gone  throng  a  course  of  treatment  at 
Kuaaisu  sometimes  repair  to  the  milder  baths  of  Ikao  to  clear 
the  skin  of  the  irritation  caused  by  the  stronger  waters. 

The  most  interesting  and  t3rpical  of  the  several  baths  is  the 
*  Netsur^no-yu,  or  Fever  Bath,  under  gov't  supervision,  in  a 
squat  frame  building  facing  the  central  square.  The  Goza-nO' 
yuy  where  the  Lepers  bathe,  is  farther  down  the  gorge;  the 
sights  and  the  human  misery  one  witnesses  there  are  so  repul- 
sive, and  are  such  a  drain  on  one's  sentiment,  that  squeamish 
persons  had  better  stay  away.  The  stranger  unfamiliar  with 
the  time-honored  customs  of  rural  Japan  will  be  impressed 
curiously  by  the  promiscuous  bathing  of  the  sexes  in  all  the 
baths,  but  he  cannot  fail  to  note  the  natural  decorum  which 
everywhere  prevails.  He  may  also  wish  to  remember  the 
statement  of  a  witty  writer,  to  the  efifect  that  'in  Japan  the 
nude  is  seen  but  not  looked  at.'  If  this  be  borne  in  mind  one 
will  have  no  difficulty  in  gaining  admission  as  a  spectator; 
cameras  and  notebooks  are,  however,  excluded.  Five  baths 
daily,  called  Jikan-yUj  or  time-baths,  are  the  rule  in  the  Netsu- 
no-yuy  the  hrs.  varying  with  the  season.  In  summer  the  first  is 
usiially  at  5  a.m.  ;  the  others  at  8  and  10  a.m.  and  at  2  and  5  p.m. 
When  all  is  ready  a  bath  attendant  goes  out  into  the  st.  and 
blows  several  long  blasts  on  a  brass  horn,  and  soon  the  bathers 
are  seen  ambfing  painfully  across  the  square.  In  the  bath- 
house they  mount  to  a  platform  which  rises  round  the  central 
pools  and  disrobe  to  a  thin  white  shirt  or  tunic.  From  40  to  60 
can  enter  the  pools  at  one  time,  and  when  this  batch  is  o\i\>  «b 
•peond  group  is  admitted.    All  bathers  must  subuxiti  to  a  «ox\i 


102    RmjUfe  7.  NETSU-NO-YU 

of  semi-military  discipline,  and  cnust  enter  and  leave  the  water 
together,  at  the  word  of  command  of  the  bath-master.  Ilie 
ratio  of  men  and  women  is  about  4  to  1.  Against  the  walls,  in 
racks  like  cue-racks  in  a  billiard-room,  stand  scores  <^  aeal 
boards  about  8  ft.  long  and  1  ft.  wide;  each  man  takes  one  of 
these,  then  all  range  themselves  in  a  row  around  the  outer 
edges  of  the  sunken  pools.  A  curious  performance  now  b^his 
and  lasts  for  20-25  min.  One  end  of  the  plank  is  dipped  mto 
the  water  and  by  a  deft  wrist-motion  a  comer  is  luted  and 
with  it  about  a  gallon  or  more  of  water,  which  is  flopped  to  one 
side  with  a  splash;  then  the  other  side  is  raised  with  a  like  re- 
sult, the  rim  of  the  pool  giving  forth  meanwhile  a  resounding 
smack  as  the  plank  strikes  it,  first  on  one  edge,  then  on  the 
other.  In  a  minute  or  two  a  concerted  rhythm  is  attained; 
bodies  begin  to  sway  in  unison,  and  to  the  40  or  more  resound- 
ing whacks  is  added  a  vocal  chant  which  soon  rises  to  a  roar. 
The  sound  of  the  voices  and  the  noise  made  by  the  water  and 
the  boards  is  deafening.  Air  is  supposed  to  enter  the  holes 
made  in  the  water,  and  to  cool  it  —  oringing  the  temperature 
down  from  about  135®  to  125°.  The  spirit  of  joyousness  evoked 
by  the  rhythmical  shouting  and  by  the  belief  that  they  are 
beating  the  heat  out  of  their  common  enemy  inspires  the 
bathers  (now  in  a  lather  of  perspiration)  with  a  sort  of  Dutch 
courage,  which,  be  it  said,  does  not  evaporate  when  they  dip 
their  tender  bodies  into  the  scalding  liquid.  During  the  per- 
formance the  planks  are  turned  about  and  the  cooler  ends  put 
in  to  whip  the  water.  At  a  given  signal  the  boards  are  with- 
drawn, placed  upright  in  their  racks,  and  heavy  beams  to 
divide  the  pools  into  aqueous  lanes  just  wide  enough  to  ac- 
commodate a  line  of  bathers  are  placed  in  position.  At  another 
signal  the  bathers  —  who  are  now  joined  by  women  who  have 
taken  no  part  in  the  cooling  operation  —  kneel  in  rows  along 
the  beams  and  pour  each  a  hundred  or  more  big  dippers  full  of 
the  hot  water  over  their  heads  and  necks  —  to  prevent  conges- 
tion and  syncope  on  entering  the  water.  By  tins  time  rising 
steam  has  fillca  the  room  with  a  thick  grav  mist,  and  any 
clothing  seems  as  heavy  as  if  one  were  in  a  Turkish  bath.  Many 
of  the  naked  backs  of  the  bathers  show  moxa  scars  as  big  as  a 
silver  50  c.  piece,  usually  near  the  spine.  During  an  interval  of 
about  10  min.  the  patients  rest,  or  swathe  their  loins  with  an 
exaggerated  clout  of  cotton  wool,  and  prepare  for  the  scalding 
ordeal. 

Suddenly  the  stentorian  voice  of  the  bath-master  asks  if  all 
are  ready.  The  last  vestige  of  clothing  is  now  whipped  oflf. 
hastily  twisted  into  a  bundle  and  thrown  to  the  platform,  ana 
primitive  Japan  is  represented  by  youth  and  manhood,  ma- 
trons and  maidenhood,  fat  and  slender,  winsome  and  other- 
wise, who  lower  themselves  slowly  into  the  almost  boOing 
water^  until  lines  of  shiny  black  polls  and  slowly  purpling  £aoei 


Exeunkma.  SAI-NO-KAWAiRA         7::BMdi,    lOS 

only  Bie  to  be  seen  above  thiB  boards.  Asileiiee  lika  thatol  the 
g^ve  ^iBues,  and  is  broken  only  by  the  loud  tiokiiig  of  the 
time-clock  and  the  echo  of  plashing  boards  and  dMuata  and 
roans  in  other  near-by  baths.  The  batlHnaster  now  tells  them 
they  will  have  to  staiid  the  ordeal  but  three  short  minutes,  and 
he  chants  a  sort  of  delifoerate  doggerd,  to  animate  them.  An  . 
anguished  cd  of  lamentation  or  a  rippling  moan  is  the  ooly 
response;  these  three  minutes  mean  almost  an  etemitv  to  the 
exquisitely  tender,  sore-flecked  bodies  into  which  tiie  hot  acid 
is  biting  zestfully,  but  the  Japanese  suffer  it  with  accustomed 
fortitude.  When,  at  the  end  of  the  first  minute,  which  in  l^e 
tense  silence  seems  much  lon^,  the  bath-master  assures  them 
that  but  two  minutes  remam,  a  thin  cheer  surcharged  with 
eager  agony  ripples  through  the  room.  The  clock  ticks  with 
amul  slowness,  and  when  Ihe  prompter  tells  them  there  re- 
mains but  a  BUDgle  minute  a  score  of  parboiled  bodiias  almost 
pop  out  of  the  water,  so  vehement  is  the  response.  Not  a  few 
of  the  glim  faces  look  as  if  they  could  not.  stand  the  ordeal  a 
split^second  longer,  much  less  a  minute.  But  ihey  do,  and  with 
tne  final  ringing  shout,  'Get  out  of  the  water  s4-o-w-l-y,'  — 
starting  at  a  pomt  high  up  the  scale  and  descending  to  a  rich 
basso  profunido,  —  the  threescore  bodies  rise  like  corks  that 
have  Deen  held  below  the  surface,  and  witii  such  amasing 
unit^  that  it  would  be  a;  good  watch  that  could  register  the 
firaetion  of  time  between  the  first  and  the  last.  The  torso  seems 
to  be  the  part  they  want  most  to  release  from  the  grip  of  the 
add,  for  many  of  the  bath^  stand  waist-deep  and  mop  their 
dark  red,  steaming  bodies  with  towels  which  a  man  or  a  woman 
attendant  brings  them.  And  such  bodies!  Those  who  think 
Uiat  the  etiolated  tint  is  the  finest  for  the  human  animal  should 
see  a  group  of  these  bathers  as  they  sit  around  'in  their  bones' 
after  an  immersion  in  such  waters.  They  are  not  all  scarred  or 
diseased;  many  in  fact  take  the  cure  for  some  little  rheumatic 
tinge;  a  fancied  ill  resulting  from  the  national  scourge,  dys- 
penda;  or  as  a  preventive  against  the  future.  This  is  particu- 
larly the  case  with  the  women,  who  outwardly  are  as  fit  as  any 
human  animal  could  be.  The  rosy  bromse  of  the  skin  when  it 
begins  to  lose  the  rich  red  hue  imparted  by  Uie  heat  is  compar- 
able onl^  in  beauty  to  that  wonderful  crimson  the  oculist  with 
his  special  light  sees  at  the  back  of  the  human  eye.  It  registers 
a  new  color  harmony,  the  exact  counterpart  of  which  one  sees 
under  no  other  condition.  The  hopelessness  of  a  correct  defini- 
tion becomes  apparent  when  a  faultlessly  symmetrical  maiden 
sits  tailor-fashion,  like  some  beautiful  nude  goddess,  in  the 
pearly  haze  that  filters  through  the  paper  shqji,  and  orowsily 
awaits  the  return  of  sufficient  strength  to  dress  herself  I 

A  number  of  Walks,  and  Excubsionb  on  Hobsbbagsb:,  are 
ponlble  in  the  Kuaatsu  neighborhood.  A  favorite  ehorti  e^TC^ 
iMo:  (i  M.)  Sairfno-Kawam  (p.  S2),  a  volcame  spot  ^Yusce 


f 


104    Route  7.  SHIRANE-SAN 

there  are  some  stone  linages  of  Ji2o  and  little  piles  of  rocks 
commemorating  dead  children.  A  number  of  hot  springs  bubble 
out  of  the  conglomerate  rock  or  run  from  holes  in  the  cliffs. 
They  evidently  flow  over  the  banked  fires  of  a  slumbering 
volcano,  since  the  waters  —  in  many  instances  scalding  to  the 
touch  —  hold  considerable  sulphur  in  solution,  whim  they 
deposit  as  an  almost  impalpable  powder  in  the  many  pools 
roundabout.  These  are  the  haunts  of  innumerable  tiny  flies; 
the  pebbles  of  jade-green,  blue,  and  yellow  resemble  semi- 
precious stones.  The  views  of  the  gorge  with  its  steam  and  its 
stench  are  very  curious.  The  big  stones  in  the  river-bed  — 
often  dry  in  summer  —  are  so  loosely  anchored  that  many  will 
wobble  to  the  touch  of  a  hand.  By  following  the  ravine  (W. 
from  the  Shirane  Hotel)  and  leaving  the  line  of  torii  at  the  left, 
one  soon  comes  to  a  point  (marked  by  a  stone  Jizo)  where  the 
stream  bifurcates.  The  path  at  the  left  goes  to  its  source, 
through  the  Sai^no-Kawara,  The  trail  which  winds  over  tJie 
hills  (right)  from  a  point }  of  the  way,  goes  to  (2}  M.)  Sesshd^ 
gauoara,  near  the  foot  of  Shirane-san, 

Shirane-san  (7500  ft.),  a  recently  active  volcano  7}  M.  N.W. 
of  Kusatsu  (horse,  ¥2.25;  coolie  to  act  as  guide,  ¥1),  is  usu- 
ally approached  from  this  point.  The  path  from  Sessho^wara 
is  rough  and  overgrown,  and  climbers  will  do  well  to  diverge 
to  the  left  about  1  hr.  before  reaching  Shibvrtdge,  A  4  hrs. 
steady  ride  and  climb  from  Kusatsu  will  take  one  to  the  sum- 
mit (no  difficulties),  where  there  are  3  lakes  in  3  separate 
craters,  2  of  them  cold,  the  other  boiling  hot;  the  latter  hiMs 
free  sulphuric  acid  in  solution,  to  which  constituent  the  baths 
of  Ku^dtsu  owe  their  efficacy.  Prior  to  1882,  Shiranesan  was 
regarded  as  a  dead,  innocuous  volcano,  but  the  eruption  of  that 
year,  during  which  the  central  lake  was  greatly  agitated  and 
threw  up  a  column  of  boiling  water,  mud,  and  stones  to  a  heii^t 
of  50  ft.,  was  the  precursor  of  later  ones.  'The  surface  levels 
of  the  lakes  are  subject  to  frequent  and  sudden  chimges.  In 
1875  the  water  of  the  central  lake  lay  140  ft.  below  the  crater 
lip:  in  1882  it  rose  to  within  20  ft.  of  the  top,  and  in  1907  it  had 
fallen  to  100  ft.  All  the  lakes  are  now  shrinking  in  size.' 

At  Shibu  Village  (17  M.  from  Kusatsu;  horse,  ¥4 ;  9  M.,  4 
hrs.  from  the  ShrbuPass)  there  are  hot  springs  and  a  good  inn 
(Kanagu-ya,  ¥1.50)  where  travelers  are  often  presented  with  a 
pot  of  the  aelicious  quince  jelly  (marumero)  made  in  the  lo- 
cality. From  Shibu  westbound  travelers  may  proceed  to  (12 
M.,  basha  in  2^  hrs.,  35  sen)  Toyono,  a  station  on  the  Skun' 
etsu  Rly.  Line  (Rte.  6).  The  intervening  scenery  is  fine.  — 
Travelers  from  Kusatsu  to  Karuizawa  will  find  a  list  (tf 
charges  for  a  jinriki,  kagoj  or  horse  posted  in  the  hotcd  lobby. 
Foreign  saddles  can  be  obtained  here,  but  there  is  usually  a 
disproportionate  charge  for  them. 

The  Retxjkn  from  K'MoJi^u  to  Taisuiahi  should  be  Biads 


YOKOHAMA  TO  THE  BONIN  ISLANDS      8.  Rte.   105 

in  the  early  moniing,  as  the  trail  is  then  beautiful,  breakfast 
can  be  had  at  4.30;  jiniiki,  80  sen;  2  men  ¥1.40.  A  good  walker 
can  compass  the  downward  journey  easily  in  2  hrs.  Several 
trails  branch  off  at  the  left,  near  the  top  of  the  st.  leading  out 
of  the  KuscUsu  gulch.  The  road  which  trends  right  and  skirts 
the  base  of  the  hills  should  be  followed.  Another  trail  leads  off 
at  the  left  just  before  the  gorge  is  entered.  From  this  point  to 
Tatsuishi  is  all  down  grade. 

The  Overland  Trip  from  Ikao  to  Nikk6  presents  fewer 
difficulties  if  taken  in  the  opposite  direction,  for  which  reason 
it  is  described  in  Rte.  16. 

8.  From  Tokohama  to  the  Benin  Islands. 

The  Benin  Islands,  or  Ogasawara-jima,  a  triple  group  of 
green,  semi-tropical  islands  (pop.  6000;  area  32  sq.  M.) 
extending  in  a  northerly  direction  from  the  parallel  26®  30^  N. 
to  27**  45'  N.,  about  560  M.  S.&E.  from  Yokohama,  are  said 
to  have  come  under  Japanese  notice  in  1693,  at  which  time, 
because  they  were  deserted,  their  discoverer  {Ogasawara 
Sadayoti)  called  them  Muniriy  or  'uninhabited  islands.'  They 
are  of  considerable  historic  interest,  since  at  one  time  they 
promised  to  become  a  touchstone  of  international  polity.  Nav- 
igators know  the  most  southerly  group  as  Arzobispo  (Arch- 
bishop), perhaps  named  by  Spanish  navigators  from  Manila. 
This  cluster,  known  also  as  Baylies*  (in  honor  of  Francis  Bay- 
lies j  President  of  the  Astronomical  Society),  was  touched  at  in 
1823,  by  a  whaling-ship  (the  Transit)  from  Nantucket  com- 
manded by  Captain  Coffin,  who  named  it  and  who  first  com- 
municated information  of  its  position  to  England.  With 
characteristic  foresight  Captain  Beechyy  of  H.  M.  S.  Blossom, 
called  at  the  island  June  9,  1827,  and  after  naming  the  3  large 
islands  of  the  middle  cluster  respectively  Peel,  Buckland,  and 
Stapleton,  and  the  N.  cluster  Parry* s  Group,  called  the  harbor 
of  Peel  Island  'Port  Lloyd,'  and  nailed  against  a  tree  a  copper 
sheathing  bearing  the  following  inscription:  'H.  M.  S.  Blos- 
som. Captain  Beechy  took  possession  of  these  islands  in  the 
name  and  on  behalf  of  His  Majesty  King  George,  the  14th 
June,  1827.*  A  mixed  company  of  colonists  numbering  a 
score  or  more  came  from  the  Sanawich  Is.,  in  1830,  at  the  insti- 
gation of  the  English  consul,  and  started  a  settlement.  When 
Convmodore  Perry  visited  the  islands  seeking  a  coaling  station, 
on  the  occasion  of  the  first  visit  of  the  American  fleet  to  Japan, 
his  action  was  misinterpreted  by  the  British  Foreign  Office, 
and  in  1853  Sir  George  nonham,  the  Governor  of  Hongkong, 
opened  a  diplomatic  correspondence  with  the  American 
Admiral  on  the  subject.  In  due  course  Japan  asserted  her 
daim  to  the  islands,  and  formally  annexed  them  m  \%1T . 
Administratively,  they  belong  to  the  Tokyb-ju,    M  pxeaeiiX. 


106    RU.  8.     THE  BONIN  AND  VOLCANO  ISLANDS 

Staplet^n  Is.  is  called  Ototo-jima  ('Younger  Brother');  Buck- 
land  Is.,  Amrjima  C Elder  Brother');  and  Peel  Is..  Ckiaki'' 
jima  CFather  Island ').  Baylies^  or  Coffin  Is.,  is  now  known  as 
Hahorjima  ('Mother  Island'),  while  the  islets  near  by  are 
ealled  Nephew^  Sister ,  Niece,  and  the  like.  The  head  adminis- 
trative office  is  at  Omura,  near  Port  Lloyd  in  Chichi-jima. 
Ship  of  the  Nippon  Yusen  Kaisha  keep  up  regular  conununi- 
cation  between  all  the  chief  islands  and  Yokohama. 

The  islands  are  high,  bold,  rocky,  of  volcanic  origin  and 
characteristics.  The  forests  that  clothe  the  lower  slopes  of 
some  of  the  hills  consist  mostly  of  palms,  —  ^^-^^^  panda- 
nus,  sago,  and  a  species  resembling  the  cocoanut.  The  mul- 
berry trees  attain  to  considerable  height,  and  the  ferns  are  the 
size  of  trees.  Sugar  is  one  of  the  chief  exports,  while  canned 
pineapple  and  turtle  are  shipped  to  the  Tokyo  market.  Turtles 
and  whales  are  numerous  in  the  surrounding  waters,  and  are  a 
source  of  wealth.  As  bananas  do  not  reach  maturitv  in  Japan 
proper,  those  consumed  are  shipped  chiefly  from  this  r^^on. 
A  specimen  of  the  huge  bats,  which  here  grow  to  the  size  of 
young  chickens,  may  be  seen  at  the  Tokyo  Imperial  Mtiaetan, 
As  the  islands  lie  N.  of  the  N.E.  trade  region,  and  E.  of  the 
monsoons,  the  climate  is  remarkably  fine;  the  mean  annual 
temperature  is  about  70°;  it  is  coldest  in  Jan.-Feb.,  when  die 
mean  monthly  temperature  is  55°.  It  is  over  70°  from  May 
until  Oct.  with  a  mean  of  80°  in  Aug. 

Fvtami  Minato,  the  bay  on  the  W.  side  oWhichirjima.  about 
li  M.  long  by  nearly  a  1  M.  in  breadth,  with  a  depth  ot  20-25 
fathoms  over  a  coral  bottom,  is  visited  yearly  by  whaling- 
^ps.  The  population  of  Port  Lloyd,  its  chief  port,  numbers 
about  500,  cniefly  Japanese,  with  a  sprinkling  of  Sandwich  Is. 
half-castes. —  Hcihorjimay  35  M.  S.  of  Chichi-jima^  lar|;e8t  (7 
M.  long  by  li  broad)  of  the  Baylies^  (or  Coffin)  group,  is  hilly 
and  rocky,  the  highest  point  being  1471  ft.  high. — VoiiCANO 
Islands,  75  M.  S.  of  the  Ogasawara  group,  were  discovered  in 
1543  by  Bernardo  de  Torres,  and  received  their  name  from  the 
volcano  on  the  central  island.  The  N.  island  b  named  San 
Alessandro ;  the  center,  Sulphur  Is.,  and  the  S.,  San  Agustino, 
The  region  roundabout  is  known  among  seafaring  men  for  its 
strange  submarine  volcanoes;  at  times  masses  of  mud  and 
a^es  shoot  up  from  the  water,  accompanied  by  rumbling  and 
the  stench  of  sulphur.  Sulphur  Is.  is  5  M .  long  and  has  danger- 
ous reefs  on  its  E.  and  W.  side.  In  Nov.,  19&,  a  rocky  island 
2i  M.  in  circumference  suddenly  poked  its  head  above  the  sea 
3  M.  N.E.  of  San  Agostino,  and  in  due  time  uncovered  a 
pumice-stone  beach,  but  by  1906  it  had  retired  beneath  the 
waves. 


YOKOHAMA  TO  TOKYO  9,  RotOe.    107 

9.  From  Tokohama  vik  Kawasaki,  Kamata  (Ikegami),  and 

&nori,  to  Tdkyd. 

Imperial  OorenuiMiit  Railway. 

18  M.  Frequent  (steam  and  electric)  trains  in  30-^60  min.  Fare,  80«en,  let 
ol. ;  ¥1.65,  round  trip;  2d  cl.,  48  and  92  sen.  Luggage  should  be  checked  well 
in  advance,  as  there  is  usually  a  crush  at  the  end.  Tickets  must  be  shown  at 
the  wicket  before  one  can  pass  to  the  platform. 

Beyond  2  M.  Htgaakir-Kanagawa  the  line  traverses  a  flat 
country,  where  much  of  the  garden  truck  sold  in  the  city  mar- 
kets is  raised.  Beautiful  views  of  the  sea  at  the  right,  and  of 
Fuji  and  distant  mts.  at  the  left.  Many  of  the  thatched  roofs 
of  the  native  dwellings  have  waving  sweet-flags  {shohu)  grow- 
ing along  the  ridge,  poles.  —  3}  M.  Tstmimi,  'Sub  fine  big  S^iji 
Temj^  (headquarters  of  the  Sddo  sect),  on  the  terrace  over- 
looking tibe  station  at  the  left,  was  removed  hither  in  1911  from 
Noto  ftovince  and  reconstructed  on  a  grand  scale.  The  views 
from  the  atrium  are  fine.  The  splendid  interior  of  the  main 
temple  is  fijiished  in  A:6^A;i-wood  stained  a  rich  mahogany 
tint,  witib  numerous  skillful  carvings,  in  the  natural  wood,  of 
phoenixes,  turtles,  wave-patterns,  and  ,the  usual  Buddhist 
motives  (p.  clxxii).  The  sumptuous  altar,  with  a  superb 
gilt  figure  of  Amida  (p.  ccii),  is  finished  in  black  lacquer  and 
gold.  The  crest  so  much  in  evidence  is  the  Pavlownia  imperi- 
alis  (p.  cliv). 

8M.  Kawasaki.  The  big  power-plant  at  the  left  of  the  track 
furnishes  some  of  the  electrical  energy  used  by  the  rly.  About 
2  M.  to  the  right  of  the  station  (frequent  tram-cars)  is  the 
locally  celebrated  Kawasaki  Daishij  a  huge  Buddhist  temple 
(of  the  Shingon  sect),  founded  in  1131  but  repeatedly  recon- 
structed. The  present  somewhat  tawdry,  weather-beaten 
edifice  dates  from  1842,  is  dedicated  to  Kdhd-Daishiy  and  is 
picturesquely  situated  in  a  pretty  garden  with  numerous  flow- 
ering plum  and  cherry  trees,  a  quaint  pond,  some  handsome 
cranes,  and  a  small  menagerie.  The  big  gatewajr  dates  from 
1897.  The  gigantic  Nio  (p.  ccvii)  which  guard  it  are  inferior 
to  others  which  the  traveler  may  see  in  Tokyo  or  Kyoto.  Both 
the  gateway  and  the  fagade  of  the  main  building  carry  some 
tolerably  good  wood-carvings  of  phoenixes,  turtles,  etc.  The 
sculptures  and  vari-colored  tennin  (p.  clxxvii)  on  the  interior 
panels  are  attributed  to  some  artist  of  the  Kano  school.  The 
most  prized  object  in  the  reliquary,  a  carved  wood  figurine 
of  Kobo-Daishif  is  said  to  have  been  fashioned  by  the  great 
scholar  himself,  sometime  in  the  9th  cent.  The  handsome 
bronze  statue  crowning  the  summit  of  a  rockery  in  the  yard 
is  of  the  Goddess  Kwannon.  Turtle-venders  sometimes  take 
their  stand  near  the  temple  entrance  and  ask  the  charitably 
•disiKMsed  to  ransom  their  stock  in  trade  and  set  them  sA.  ^^ 
ertj.  Bucketsful  of  turtles,  ran^ng  in  price  from  10  to  Ki  seifi, 


108    Route  9.        lEEGAMI  HOMMONH 

and  in  size  from  a  watch  to  a  plate,  are  often  suspended  from 
strings  or  placed  on  the  top  of  bamboo  posts,  where  they  daw 
the  air  despairingly  in  their  frantic  efforts  to  escape.  Odd  fea- 
turesof  the  host  of  shops  in  the  neighborhood  are  dumpy,  red,  and 
black  figures  of  Daruma  (p.  cxcix),  from  the  size  of  an  egg  to  that 
of  a  pumpkin,  with  blank  white  eyes  which  petitioners  paint  in, 
after  some  cherished  wish  has  been  granted  by  the  temple 
divinity;  they  are  fashioned  on  the  roly-poly  principle,  and 
always  regain  their  equilibrium.  At  some  of  the  tiny  shops, 
clams,  seaweed,  and  various  conchylia  are  packed  in  sm^  nets 
which  pilgrims  carry  home  with  them.  The  district  through 
which  the  tram-cars  run  is  pretty  in  early  spring  when  the 
deep  pink  of  peach,  the  lighter  tones  of  cherry,  and  the  rich, 
creamy  white  of  pear  blossoms  add  charm.  There  are  many 
pear  orchards,  and  the  trees  are  trained  over  low,  roofed  trd- 
lises  so  that  the  fruit  may  be  gathered  easily.  • 

The  rly.  crosses  the  Tamagawa  on  a  long  bridge  and  traverBes 
flat  paddy-fields  to  9i  M.  Kamata,  where  the  Flo  web  Gab- 
dens  (iris,  peonies,  etc.)  of  the  Yokohama  Nursery  Co.  (see  p. 
8)  attract  many  sight-seers  from  Yokohama  and  T6ky5  at 
special  seasons  (advertisements  in  the  newspapers).  The 
traveler  fond  of  picturesque  old  Buddhist  temples  can  make  a 
delightful  detour  by  descending  from  the  train  here,  walking 
1 J  M.  N.W.  to  Ikegami,  and  rejoining  the  hne  at  Omori  station. 

The  Hommonji,  a  nationally  celebrated  temple  founded  by  Nichinn  (p. 
oei);  in  1280;  one  of  the  most  important  religious  structures  of  the/fojuee 
sect  in  Japan,  and  one  of  the  most  picturesque  and  typical  that  the  toayeler 
will  see,  stands,  with  its  niunerous  annexes,  on  the  broad  summit  of  a  low  hill 
overlooking  the  pretty  town  of  Ikegami,  —  so-called  from  Ikegami  Munenata, 
whose  name  is  associated  with  the  construction  of  the  primitive  building. 
The  approach  is  flanked  by  attractive  shops,  and,  in  season,  by  flower  dis- 
plays of  considerable  variety.  Ninety-six  granite  steps  lead  up  to  the  broad, 
beautifully  shaded  terrace,  where  stands  the  colossal  red  gateway  guarded 
by  the  two  Deva  Kings.  The  Main  Temple,  or  Sdahi-ddt  rises  amid  lofty 
trees  beside  the  equally  impressive  Shaka-do,  or  Hall  of  Buddha,  —  both 
excellent  reproductions  of  early  Buddhistic  architecture,  and  both  datins 
from  1002.  The  interior  of  the  former  is  a  blaze  of  gold  and  rich. lacquer  sup- 
plemented by  the  customary  polychromatic  carving.s  of  dragonSi'anilBla  ol  t&a 
Buddhist  paradise,  etc.,  and  notewortiiy  for  70  huudaume  sutnMOiM  of  a 
rich  red  lacquer.  The  massive  supporting  columns  arc  magnifioeiitRMcinieiiB 
of  the  close-grained  keyaki,  finished  in  the  natural  color  and  poUsbed  by  eoni 
tact  with  the  hands  of  devotees.  The  chief  objoot  of  veneration  is  a  wuli^ 
tured  and  seated  wood  figure,  on  the  high  altar,  of  the  sainted  JVieUren. 
ascribed  to  his  pupil  Nichiro,  and  protected  by  an  elaborately  embrotdered 
silken  kinran  which  the  priest  in  charge  will  raise  for  a  small  fee.^  The  most 
conspicuous  idol  in  the  Shaka-do,  which  is  connected  with  the  main  building 
by  a  picturesque  bridge,  is  a  well-carved  Buddha  backed  by  a  fine  idlded 
mandorla.  The  handsome  new  altar  at  the  left,  dedicated  to  Shaka,^  is 
adorned  with  sculptured  figurines  of  Monju,  Fugen,  and  other  divinitiea. 
The  large  knkemono  at  the  right  portrays  the  death  of  Buddha.  That  at  the 
left,  silk  embroidered,  shows  Nichiren  on  his  deathbed.  The  12  tolerably  well- 
carved  statuettes  in  the  fine  black  lacquered  reliquary  are  erroneously  attnl^ 
uted  to  Unkei  Op.  ccxli).  The  huge  Revolving  Library  at  the  rear  of  the  build- 
ing is  said  to  contain  the  complete  Buddhist  scriptures.  At  the  rear  of  the 
extensive  apartments  of  the  priests,  is  a  stinken  landscape  garden  worth 
seeing.  —  By  descending  the  flight  of  steps  (many  leprous  and  repuUve  bec- 
gars)  at  the  rear  of  the  Library,  one  reaches  the  sacrosanct  KainhdS,  a  db- 


Runway  SUOwM.  TOKYO  10.  BatUe.    109 

poba  Bi]xmoaixtixi«  an  immenae  stone  lotus  and  containing  a  bisaire  reliquar- 
lum  (abo  lotus-shaped  and  resting  upon  8  green  tortoiseB)  enshrining  a  much 
bewrapped,  greatly  revered  tooth  said  to  have  belonged  to  Nicfuren.  The 
host  of  carefully  tied  little  packages  contain  offerings  to  the  shrine.  A  few 
hundred  feet  below  this,  bey<HKi  the  double  gateway,  is  the  Daibd,  a  much 
venerated  structure  on  the  site  of  the  spot  where  Nichiren  died.  Withia  is  a 
pillar  swathed  in  silk  brocade  agjainst  which  he  leaned  before  his  death;  a  bit 
d  hard  wood  which  served  as  his  pillow;  and  a  tiny  wood  figure  purporting 
to  be  Nichiren  and  to  have  been  carved  by  him  the  day  before  he  di^.  His 
tomb  is  among  many  others  in  the  grove  up  at  the  right  of  the  Daibd. 

The  five-storied  Pagpda  stands  alone  in  a  fine  grove  not  far  from  the  main 
temple.  The  path  leacting  past  it  goes  to  the  Ikegami  Omen,  with  a  tea-house 
and  a  pretty  landscape  guden  filled  with  flowering  trees,  terraces,  rockeries 
and  flowers.  By  following  the  picturesque  main  road  at  the  left  one  soon 
comes  to  (1  M.)  Omori  Station.  The  hotel  crowning  the  hill  at  the  left  is  the 
fiosiivro, m  the  native  style.  The  plum]  blossoms  of  the  locality  attract 
many  visitors  in  late  Feb.  Relics  of  the  early  autochthons  have  been  dug  up 
in  tiie  neighborhood.  —  The  traveler  with  ample  time  may  like  to  visit  the 
near-by  (tram-car,  |  hr.;  fare  9  »en)  Hanbda,  a  popular  resort  of  the  TdkyO- 
ites,  near  the  sea,  with  a  locally  famed  shrine  to  Inari.  The  chief  festivals  are 
in  March  and  Sept.,  but  at  aU  times  during  the  summer  thron^p  of  holiday 
foXkB  swarm  over  the  place  (a  sort  of  local  Coney  Is.)  and  render  it  attractive. 
The  scores  of  small  restaurants  spedaUse  in  sea-food,  and  the  shops  sell 
marine  soology  in  many  forms. 

From  Omori  the  train  parallels  the  sea  to  15  M.  Shinagawa, 
an  important  junction  on  the  outskirts  of  Tokyo.  The  old 
forts  visible  at  the  right,  in  Tokyo  Bay,  were  built  by  the 
Shdgunal  Gov't  to  repel  the  Americans  under  Commodore 
Perry.  The  traveler  planning  to  visit  the  Tombs  of  the  47 
RoNiN  (p.  186)  and  Shiba  Park  (p.  168)  can  save  a  little  time 
by  descending  from  the  train  here  and  visiting  them  in  the 
order  named.   18  M.  Tokyo,  see  below. 

10.  Tdkyd 

a.  Railway    Stations.    Ticket   Offices.   Hotels.   Boarding-Hooses.   Res- 
taurants. Inns. 

Railway  Stations.  As  T5ky0  is  a  port  of  call  only  for  coastal  and  river 
steamships,  foreign  travelers  customarily  approach  it  by  rly.;  the  Une  from 
Yokohama,  Kyoto,  Kobe,  etc.,  runs  in  from  the  S.W.;  that  from  Nikkd,  the 
N.  country,  and  Yezo  Is.,  from  the  N.  Aninterurban  and  transversal  electric 
line  (part  surface,  part  elevated),  owned  by,  and  operated  in  conjunction 
with,  the  Imperial  Gov't  Rlys.,  crosses  and  half-circles  the  city,  and  connects 
the  central  station  (see  below)  with  those  stretching  from  the  sometime 
important  Shimbashi  Station  (now  a  freight  tenninal)  at  the  S.W.  (PI.  E,  7) 
to  Ryogoku  (PI.  H-I,  7),  at  the  N.  E.  Travelers  bound  for  points  in  the  out- 
skirts may  save  considerable  time  by  alighting  at  one  of  the  dozen  or  more 
suburban  or  city  stations  (comp.  the  plan)  reached  by  the  electric  line,  but 
those  who  intend  to  lodge  at  one  of  the  city  hotels  will  find  it  more  conven- 
ient to  proceed  to  the  Central  Station  {Chud  Suteishon,  pronounced  chew- 
oh'  station,  comp.  p.  139),  a  colossal,  modem,  fully  equipped  structure  in 
Marunoiichi,  Kojimachi-ku  (PI.  F,  6),  not  far  from  the  E.  center  of  the 
city,  the  chief  hotels,  and  the  Imperial  Palace.  The  Manseibashi  Station  is 
mentioned  at  p.  148;  the  Uyeno  Station,  at  p.  149.  Taxicabs  (p.  Ill),  Jin- 
rikis  (15  min.  to  the  Imperial  Hotel,  fare,  20  sen;  25  min.  to  the  Seiyoken 
Hotd.  30  sen;  see  p.  Ill)  and  tram-cars  (p.  112)  arc  in  waiting  to  carry 
travelers  to  any  part  of  the  city.  English  is  spoken  in  nearly  all  the  station 
deimrtmenta;  and  always  by  the  employees  in  the  Information  Bureau. 
Eni^ish-speaking  porters  from  the  different  hotels  meet  all  incoming  trains 
(excepting  those  arriving  at  midnight  or  very  early  in  the  a.m.),  and  \\ie 
tmvMer  can  be  sure  of  finding  one  awaiting  him  (at  any  time)  if  he  vn\i  "wrvXA 


110    RoiUe  10.  TOKYO  HiMB. 

or  wire  to  the  hotel  at  which  he  expects  to  stop.  Telephone  bocth  in  tlie  star 
tion.  Luggage  will  be  delivered  by  the  rly.  co.  (p.  Izxziii)  or  cbeckB  can  bo 
given  to  the  hotel  porter  or  the  manager  (who  will  send  coolies  for  it).  Hand- 
Kggageoan  be  checked  at  the  cloak-room.  Trunks  1^  in  the  baggage-room 
more  than  24  hrs.  are  charged  for  at  the  rate  of  4  sen  a  day. 

The  City  Ticket-Offices  of  the  rl^.  oo.  are  of  more  service  to  Ji^MUieBe  than 
to  foreigners.  The  best  hotels  maintain  an  Information  Bureau  which  at- 
tends (free  service)  to  the  buying  of  the  traveler's  tickets,  shipping  of  his 
luggage,  etc. 

Hotels  (comp.  p.  znz).  Comfortable  modem  hotels  adapted  to  foreign 
requirements  are  few;  the  two  largest  and  best  (mentionea  below)  have 
excellent  grill-rooms  (d  la  carte  service  at  reasonable  prices)  popular  with 
foreigners  who  come  to  Tdkyd  for  the  day.  Both  hotels  are  apt  to  be  crowded 
during  the  tourist  season,  and  lodgings  should  be  arranged  for  in  advance. 
Both  are  under  the  direction  of  En^sh-speaking  Japanese  familiar  with 
American  and  European  hotels  and  their  methods,  and  are  equipped  with 
information  bureaus;  reading-rooms  with  foreign  newspapers  and  maoar 
sines;  steam  heat;  electric  lights;  hot  and  cold  running  water;  free  batfia: 
orchestra  at  meals;  and  private  garages  with  autos  at  ¥5  an  hr.  Good  food 
prepared  and  served  in  fordgn  style.  American  bars. 

The  *Imverial  Hotel  (Teikoku.  —  Tel.  ad.:  'Impeho,  TeSkyO').  a  cde- 
brated  establishment  (130  rooms  —  some  with  open  fireplaces)  oooumong 
B  commanding  position  in  spacious  grounds  (relatively  isolated,  good  air, 
minimimi  fire  risk)  overlooking  the  extensive  and  beautiful  Hibiya  Park,  in 
K5jimachi-ku  (PI.  E,  6),  is  convenient  to  the  Central  Station,  the  Embassy  of 
the  United  States,  and  other  foreign  Embassies  and  Legations;  the  House  ol 
Parliament;  Imperial  Palace^and  Ministerial  Offices;  mausoleaand  templea 
of  Shiba  Park,  etc.  Rates:  3d  floor  from  ¥6  and  up  per  pers.;  double  room, 
¥11.  —  Best  rooms  on  the  2d  floor,  ¥7  to  ¥9;  for  2  pers.,  ¥18;  other  doable 
rooms,  ¥10  for  2  pers.  With  private  bath,  ¥20.  When  rooms  are  engased 
on  the  American  plan  and  no  meals  are  taken,  a  reduction  of  ¥1  each  ia 
made.  Breakfast,  ¥  1 ;  tiffin,  ¥  1 .50 ;  dinner,  ¥2.  Special  rates  for  a  long  stay. 
English-speaking  management  and  servants.  —  Japan,  a  monthly  rnnip^KiTiift 
in  English  (free  to  guests;  to  others  15  sen  a  copy)  issued  by  the  hotel  oontaina 
considerable  of  interest  to  visitors. 

*Seiyoken  Hotel  (Tel.  ad.:  *Seiyoken,  Tokyd*),  sometimes  called  the 
Tsukiji  Seiyoken,  a  large  and  finely  equipp>ed  (rebuilt  in  1911)  hotel  under 
the  patronage  of  the  Imperial  Household,  stands  in  the  S.E.  quarter  of  the 
city,  in  the  section  called  Tsukijit  in  Kyobashi-ku  (PI.  E,  7),  near  the  seat  the 
Shimbashi  station,  and  the  Naval,  Commercial,  and  Mineral  Muaeuma. 
Fine  views;  sea  air;  70  bedrooms  and  several  handsome  dinLog-rooms  for 
banquets;  delicatessen  shop  with  foreign  wine  and  provisions  in  connection 
with  the  hotel.  Room  only,  from  ¥3  and  upward  per  day;  breakfast,  75  ten; 
tiffin,  ¥1.30;  dinner,  ¥1.50.  Room  and  meals  from  ¥6  and  upwaid  (for  2 
pers.,  double  the  single  rate  less  ¥2) .  Room  with  bath,  for  2,  ¥12.50.  De- 
duction of  5%  for  a  week's  stay;  for  a  month,  10%.  —  Automobile,  ¥5  per 
hr.  (50%  extra  outside  the  city,  and  20%  extra  at  mght  and  in  bad  weather). 
Cab  to  the  rly.  station  (Victoria),  ¥1.50;  coup4,  ¥2.50.  The  hotel  maintaiiw 
a  branch  at  Uyeno  Park  (PI.  I,  4),  convenient  for  visitors  to  Hoe  musemn* 
library,  and  mausolea;  and  conducts  the  Ca/6  Lion,  a  popular-priced  restaifr- 
rant  (meals  in  foreign  style;  music,  dancing,  '  movies,'  etc.)  on  the  CHnau 
(PI.  E-F,  7).  The  Cafi  Shimbashi  (PI.  E,  7),  likewise  under  the  same  man- 
agement,^ is  a  sort  of  short-order  restaurant  with  corresponding  pnoea  and 
an  American  bar.  Both  caf6s  are  well  patronised  by  foreigners.  The  PaHk 
Hotel  at  Mataiuhiina  (Rto.  17)  is  under  the  Seiyoken  management,  and  apart- 
ments can  be  engaged  here. 

Of  the  several  smaller  hotels  perhaps  the  best-known  and  most  popular  ia 
the  Hotel  Central,  12  Tsukiji  (PI.  F,  8) ;  English-German  management  and 
cooking;  ¥5  to  ¥7  a  day.  Am.  pi.;  double  rooms,  for  2  pers.,  ¥9-12;  10% 
rebate  for  a  week's  stay;  for  a  month,  25%. 

BoARDiNQ  Houses  with  foreign  food  and  acconmiodationB  are  aoaiee; 
oonsult  some  one  in  the  Embassy  or  Legation. 

Japanese  Restaurants  (comp.  p.  xli)  abound,  but  they  do  not  fill  the 
foreign  void.  Notwithstanding  Tdky5's  reputation  as  the  gajreat  oitiir  in  the 
Empire,  the  traveler  will  search  in  vain  for  the  sumptuous  Mfte  ol 


TranspartaHon.  TOKYO  10.  Botde.    Ill 

or  America,  or  the  good  food  which  the  Japanese  renaiatanee  mLsht  be  susv* 
posed  to  have  brought  with  it.  The  good  coffee,  food,  and  wine  the  foreigner 
ukes  are  found  only  at  the  hotels.  Every  quarter  of  the  metropolis  contains 
one  or  more  lodUly  celebrated  restaurants,  but  English  is  spokisn  in  but  few 
of  tbran,  and  foreigners  find  the  food  disappinntinf .  Many  are  more  expen- 
sive than  vastly  superior  places  (both  as  regards  cuiane  and  geneval  comf  curt) 
in  New  York,  London,  or  Berlin,  and  Occidentals,  unconcerned  about  the 
special  charms  of  the  geisha^  are  usually  at  a  loss  to  account  for  the  prices 
exacted.  Those  restaiirants  which  make  a  specialty  of  out-of-season  damties 
are  to  be  avoided  by  all  but  the  rich,  as  the  food  is  apt  to  be  as  expensive  as 
unseasonable  orchids  in  New  York.  The  traveler  who  wishes  to  dine  d  la 
JaponaMe,  with  or  without  geiaha  accooipaniment,  will  do  well  to  consult  the 
manager  of  the  Imperial  or  the  Sdyoken  Hotel;  besides  selecting  a  place  of 
good  repute,  he  will  be  able  to  inform  <me  more  or  less  what  the  cost  will  be. 
The  Maple  Club  (PI.  D,  6)  serves  meals  in  the  native  style  at  prices  but  a 
trifle  higher  than  those  of  the  hotels. 

The  mns  of  Tdkyd  cater  chiefly  to  the  wants  of  Japanese.  Although  some 
have  assimied  the  name  'hotel,'  they  are  hot  patronised  much  by  foreigners. 
Travelers  may  wish  to  remember  that  T6k:^6  is  often  scourged  by  fire,  and 
that  flimsily  built  native  houses  bum  like  tinder  when  ignited. — ^The  Milk 
Halls  scattered  through  the  dty  are  frequented  chiefly  By  Japanese.  Bssa 
Halls  were  a  erase  a  few  years  ago.  Those  that  remain,  sell  the  native  beer 
(camp.  p.  Ixxiv). 

b.  Means  of  Transportation. 

Tazicabs  ( Noriai  jiddaha)  ply  for  hire  and  are  popular;  the  present  fare 
(apt  to  change)  in  a  S-passenger  car  (and  as  many  children  and  packages  as 
can  be  squeezed  into  it)  is  60  sen  for  the  1st  M.  then  10  sen  for  every  addi- 
tional k  M.,  and  the  same  for  each  6  min.  wait.  The  word  *  taxi '  is  coining 
gradually  into  use. 

Automobiles  (p.  Ixxxvi)  can  be  hired  (usual  rate,  ¥5  an  hr.)  at  the  chief 
hotels  and  at  any  of  the  many  garages  scattered  throughout  the  capitiJ; 
Knglish-speakLng  chauffeurs.  Where  there  are  several  in  a  party  of  sight-seers, 
motor-cars  are  quicker,  more  convenient,  and  often  much  cheaper  than  jin- 
rikis.  Special  rates  by  the  day  and  for  country  trips.  Strangers  (pa^icu- 
larly  Americans)  may  like  to  remember  that  the  rule  of  the  road  is  to  the  left : 
also  that  many  of  the  Japanese  are  still  unfamiliar  with  automobiles  ana 
their  lethal  possibilities,  and  that  only  the  greatest  care  will  prevent  acci- 
dents. 

Cabs  do  not  ply  regularly  for  hire  in  T5ky0,  but  they  may  be  had  of  the 
livery-stables  (Jbasfiaku)  or  throu^  the  hotels;  for  long  rides,  they  are  more 
satisfactory  than  rikishas,  and  if  there  are  several  in  the  party  they  are 
considerably  cheaper.  The  usual  charge  (apt  to  change)  for  a  single  victoria 
is ¥2  for  the  first  2  hrs.,  and  50  sen  for  each  additional  hr.;  for  |  ofay,  ¥3.50; 
whole  day,  ¥6.  Double  victoria,  ¥3.50  for  the  Ist  hr.  and  80  «en  for  each 
succeeding  hr.;  i  day,  ¥5;  whole  day,  ¥8.  The  former  can  be  hired  by  the 
month  for  ¥60  to  ¥70;  the  latter  for  ¥90  —  with  everything  furnished.  A 
single  coup6  costs  ¥4  for  i  day,  and  ¥7  the  entire  day.  Double  coup6  ¥5.50 
and  ¥9.  The  former  costs  ¥80-^90  a  month;  the  latter  ¥95rll0  (according 
to  the  vehicle).  Double  landau,  ¥6  for  J  day;  ¥10  the  entire  day;  ¥110- 
130  a  month.  Certain  of  the  stables  forbid  drivers  to  accept  tips.  A  special 
arrangement  can  be  made  when  a  vehicle  is  wanted  for  a  single  trip  of  less 
than  2  hrs.  duration. 

Jiniikis  (p.  Ixxxviii).  Travelers  must  be  on  their  guard  against  over- 
charge. There  seems  to  be  no  fixed  tariff,  and  prices  rise  steadily.  Always 
adc  the  man  what  he  is  going  to  charge  before  engaging  him;  25%  or  more 
can  sometimes  be  saved  by  walking  a  half-block  or  more  from  the  hotel  or 
station  and  hiring  a  passing  vehicle.  As  a  rule  20  sen  for  a  15  min.  run,  and 
25  for  a  20-25  min.  run,  is  regarded  as  fair  pay:  40-50  sen  is  ample  for  a 
steady  30-40  min.  run  (say  from  the  Imperial  Hotel  to  Uyeno  Park,  or  vice 
veraa:  or  from  the  Jidamachi  Station  to  the  Seiyoken  Hotel  in  Tsukiji) .  In  foul 
weather,  and  after  9  p.m.  about  10%  more  is  expected.  The  customary 
diarse  for  h  day  (around  the  city,  with  oscasional  halts)  is  ¥1.25;  wboYe  dtty , 
¥1.50  to  ¥1.75.  Lazy  men  always  expect  more  than  energetic  ones,  'kiA 
^* —  are  the  noisiest  when  they  consider  themselves  underpaid.  In  caae  oi 


112    Route  10.  tOKYO  PostjQfee. 


dispute  (the  TOkyd  men  are  a  disputatious  lot),  refer  the  mattte  to  a  poGc  ^ 
man  or  to  the  hotel  manager  (not  to  the  clerk,  who  is  apt  to  side  with  fail 
countryman). 

Electric  Street-Cars  idensha,  p.  Ixzxvii)  traverse  the  dty  in  all  direc- 
tions and  afford  a  cheap,  convement,  and  rapid  means  of  communication. 
The  lines  are  owned  and  operated  b^f  the  Tdkyd  Municipality,  and  a  geii«r- 
ous  system  of  transfers  maJces  it  possible  for  one  to  go  from  almost  any^  point 
in  the  vast  metropolis  (including  transpontine  Tdkyo)  to  any  other  point  tar 
an  inclusive  5-sen  fare.  Round-trip  tickets  between  given  points  are  s(^  for 
10%  below  one-way  fares.  Coupon-books  of  tickets  good  over  all  the 
metropolitan  lines  are  sold  by  the  co^iductors  at  reduced  rates.  The  cazs  are 
often  overcrowded,  and  at  certain  hours  one  has  to  press  in  closely  and  hang 
on  to  the  straps,  but  as  a  Japanese  crowd  is  rarely  offensive,  economically 
fiiclined  foreigners  regard  the  cars  with  favor  because  of  the  saving  of  money 
and  time.  The  custom  in  vogue  is  for  the  conductor  to  sell  and  punch  tlM 
ticket,  which  must  be  retained  and  delivered  either  to  him  or  to  the  motor- 
man  on  leaving  the  car.  The  custom  of  finding  seats  for  strap-hangers,  or  of 
mving  up  seats  to,  or  making  way  for,  ladies  is  not  yet  firmly  implanted. 
The  cars  stop  only  at  certain  points,  which  are  indicated  by  signs  or  painted 

Sosts;  starters  are  stationed  at  junctions.  Street  names  are  called  by  ooih 
uctors,  but  as  they  are  in  the  vernacular,  they  are  often  unintelludble  to 
strangers.  Despite  the  fact  that  many  of  the  employees  speak  no  English, 
the  stranger  seldom  experiences  much  difficulty  in  getting  about,  as  the 
people  generally  are  kind  and  helpful.   Most  of  the  cars  run  all  ni^t. 

The  Elevated  Railway  (koka  tetsudo)  which  enters  the  city  at  Shinngawa, 
at  the  S.W.,  and  traverses  the  city  on  an  arched  brick  structure,  fonuB  a 
segment  in  the  belt  line,  and  is  part  of  the  Gov't  Rly.  System.  It  offers  the 
best  and  quickest  means  of  reaching  certain  of  the  suburban  towns  iMegta^, 
Okuho,  Ikehukuro,  etc.),  as  well  as  certain  points  between  Shinagawa  and 
Manseibashi  and  vicinity.     Fares  are  low. 

River  Boats.  For  information  concerning  these,  consult  the  hotel  man- 
ager. Neither  the  (cramped)  excursion  boats  nor  the  ferries  are  much 
patronized  by  foreigners. 

c.  Post,  Telegraph,  Telephone,  Railway,  and  Steamship  Offices.  Shipping- 

Agents;  Tourist  Agencies. 

Post-Office  (comp.  p.  xcii).  The  Tdkyo  Central  Post-OfiSce  is  at  Honsai- 
moku-ch5,  in  Nihonbashi-ku  (PI.  G,  6)  near  the  Nihonbashi;  travelers  usu- 
ally receive  and  post  their  mail-matter  at  the  hotel,  or  follow  the  custom  of 
the  local  residents  and  patronize  the  branch  offices  scattered  throughout  the 
city.  The  collections  from  the  (2000  or  more)  red  iron  postal-boxes  mtnni- 
nently  displayed  on  the  streets  are  frequent.  There  is  a  prompt  and  efficient 
house-to-house  delivery,  and  incoming  mails  are  delivered  sevOTal  times 
during  the  day.  The  closing  time  of  foreign  mails  is  advertised  in  the  looal 
(English)  newspapers,  along  with  the  saiUng  dates  (or  arrivals)  of  steamers. 
Stamps  are  always  on  sale  at  the  hotels.  In  the  one-time  foreign  settlement 
at  Taukiji,  house  numbers  are  relied  upon  more  than  street  names;  as  at 
Yokohama. 

The  Central  Telegraph-Office  (comp.  p.  xcvi)  is  at  Honzaimoku-chd,  Ni* 
honbashi-ku  (PI.  G,6).  Branches  are  scattered  throughout  the  city,  and 
are  found  at  rly.  stations,  but  messages  in  a  foreign  language  are  accepted 
at  but  few  of  them.  Travelers  customarily  hand  their  telegrams  to  the 
hotel  manager,  who  dispatches  them  by  a  boy  to  the  proper  office.  The 
Cable  Office  (comp.  p.  xcvii)  is  in  the  same  dep't  with  the  telegraph;  mes- 
sages for  foreign  countries  are  commonly  transmitted  to  Yokohama  and 
sent  from  there.  Incoming  messages  are  repeated  from  Yokohama  and  the 
local  telegraph  rate  added  to  the  charge. 

Telephones  are  on  the  increase;  the  Central  Office  is  at  Zenigame-ch5,  in 
Kdjimachi-ku  (PI.  G,  6),  and  there  are  six  branches.  The  on  eat  Ky5baahi-ka 
(in  Sanjukkenbori)  is  housed  in  a  pretentious  white  brick  and  stone  edifice 
topped  by  a  church  spire  and  so  man^  crockets,  finials,  and  other  Gothio 
ornaments  that  strangers  usuall^r  take  it  for  a  church.  There  is  a  lonc-dis- 
tance  telephone  (susceptible  of  improvement)  between  T5ky5  and  zoko- 
hama,  and  the  system  is  being  extended.  Automatic  telephone  (/iitf  ( 


Shops.  TOKYO  10.  Route,    113 

booths  (5  sen  for  5  min.  ooiiTeraation;  to  Yokohama,  20  »en)  are  seattered 
throui^out  the  city,  but  as  English  is  not  always  spoken  at  the  Central 
Office  the  service  is  of  Uttle  or  no  use  to  foreigners  unleas  they  have  some  one 
to  call  up  the  desired  number  for  them. 

Railway  Offices  (c<Hnp.  p.  Ixxiz).  Those  of  the  Imperial  Gov't  Rlvs.  are  at 
Gofukubashi,  Kdjimaohi-ku  (H.  F,  6).  The  South  Manchurian  Rly.  Co.  is 
at  1  Yuraku-chd  Itchome,  Kdjimachi-ku  (PI.  F,  6). 

Steamship  Offices,  Toyo  Risen  Kaisha  (Tel.  ad.:  '  Toyoasano'),  1 
Yuraku-ch6  Kdjimachi-ku  (PI.  F,  6).  —  Nippon  Yuaen  Kaisha  (Tel.  ad.: 
'Morioka  T6ky6'),  1  Yuraku-ch6  K5jimachi-iu  (PI.  F,  6). 

Shipping  Agents  (comp.  p.  cziz).  Hdm  Bros.  Ltd.^  Koami-ch6  Itchome, 
Nihonbashi-ku  (PI.  G,  7). 

Tourist  Agencies:  JapanTourist Bureau  (p.  Izv),  Imperial  Hotel  (PI.  E,  6). 
—  T.  Minami  &  Sons  (Minami  Shokai),  3  Rogetsu-chd,  Shiba-ku  (PI.  D, 
7).  —  The  Welcome  Society ,  Chamber  of  Conmieroe  Bldg.,  Yuraku-chd, 
Kojimachi-ku  (PI.  F,  6). 

Travelers  may  wish  to  remember  that  in  T6ky9  the  heads  of  dep*ts  rarely 
reach  their  offices  before  10  a.m. 

d.  Shops.  Churches.  Embassies  and  Legations.  Newspapers.  Physicians 
and  Dentists.  Banks.  Clubs.  Baths.  Climate. 

Shops  (comp.  p.  czii).  Tdky5  is  headquarters  for  a  number  of  specialties 
which  can  be  bought  to  better  advantage  than  elsewhere;  the  best  workers 
in  ivory,  wireless  cloisonne,  and  other  crafts  foregather  here,  and  much  of 
the  h^olmered  silver-work  seen  in  shops  throughout  the  Empire  is  made 
here  —  usually  in  small  home  workshops  whose  output,  fashioned  by  excep- 
tionally skilled  artificei^,  is  made  to  order,  or  bespoken  before  it  is  finishea. 
The  largest  bookstores  and  cheap  lacquer-ware  establishments  are  located 
in  Tdkyo,  and  to  its  always  interesting  bazaars  come  strange  articles  of  daily 
use  from  the  remotest  comers  of  the  land.  Ortain  of  the  renowned  silk 
mercers  of  Ky6to  (lida  &  Co.;  S.  Nishimura^  etc.)  have  branch  stores  and 
factories  in  Tokyo,  where  not  a  few  of  the  foreign  merchants  of  Yokohama 
also  have  storerooms  or  offices.  -  Like  Kydto,  T5kyd  is  filled  with  small  but 
fascinating  shops,  and  the  traveler  with  leisure  to  explore  them  can  pick 
up  many  charming  little  souvenirs.  The  several  pretentious  Department 
Stores  are  pygmies  compared  to  the  gigantic  emporiums  of  New  York  and 
London,  and  as  a  rule  they  are  of  but  little  interest  to  travelers,  since  the 
silks  and  other  fabrics  are  customarily  sold  only  in  lengths  suitable  to  native 
requirements  and  unsuited  to  those  of  Occidentals.  Many  articles  are  sold 
only  in  groups  or  quantities  conforming  to  Japanese  usage.  Winter  supplies 
are  often  unobtainable  in  smnmer,  and  summer  wares  in  winter.  English 
is  not  always  spoken.  Because  of  existing  conditions  many  foreigners  in 
T6ky6  buy  their  dry  goods,  etc.,  in  the  excellent  Yokohama  shops,  where  Eng- 
lish IS  spoken;  prices  are  fixed;  stocks  are  varied  and  are  suited  to  their  needs. 

While  the  following  list  does  not  exhaust  the  number  of  T5kyd  shops,  it 
will  no  doubt  fill  the  traveler's  requirements,  as  it  has  been  compiled  with 
care  and  with  the  aim  of  saving  the  stranger  time  and  money.  The  estab- 
lishments recommended  are  ranked  by  tourists  as  among  the  best;  English 
is  spoken ;  prices  are  fixed,  and  the  shops  have  a  reputation  for  fair  dealing. 

CuBios  (comp.  p.  cxii).  Miyamoto  Shoko,  2  Yazaemoncho,  Kydbashi-ku 
(PI.  E,  6),  between  Ginza  and  the  canal  N.  of  it.  Goldsmiths.  Manufac- 
turing jewelers;  hand-made  silverware  (a  specialty)  in  quaint  and  unique 
designs  (extensive  display  of  tea-sets,  punch-bowls,  spoons  and  miscellane- 
ous articles).  The  tea-sets  with  Chinese  jade  fitments  are  unusually  beau- 
tiful. Jade  jewelry;  bronzes;  ivories,  etc. — There  are  several  small  curio- 
diops  in  Nakadori,  —  the  narrow  street  which  parallels  the  extension  of 
Ginza  from  Ky5bashi  to  Nihonbashi.  Certain  of  the  larger  establishments 
make  a  specialty  of  antiques  which  because  of  their  historic  associations 
appeal  more  strongly  to  Japanese  than  to  foreigners. 

Cui/ruRE  Pearls  (comp.  p.  cxix).    K.  Mikimoto,  3  Ginza  Shichomo  (4th 
Ginaa),  Kyobashi-^u  (PI.  E-F,  7);  English  spoken.   A  unique  shop  with  a 
q;donaid  collection  of  mounted  and  unmounted  pearls  at  prices  considerably 
below  those  of   Europe  and  America  (where  high  customB  dut&eiB  e&a^. 
te  illustrated  catalog  (in  English)  on  request. 


°S.« 


ft&tCfO 


tka  abon.  —  tVMtr  CMk**ri  UmtrinB  B|i««^  M   AkMU 
toriDdi),  MMS«efcia«ii  Bhl!'!Ktti™*^fagrB.*).  — ^SK 

^1 « —  {:tehi&4,  SB  A^St^xi,  TMftifl  (fL  r,  n.  —  o*^  c 

I,  Soiiivdal,  KMKbpfai  {hTo,  «.  —  DnOoriM  CI 


fatS^teElaD  cjumli  ii  fHai  T»-aiL  E|iil^;  tb«  Nai 
■    —  ■■       —  -  -  ■   — -'     Hidraloi      •  ••  ■■ 

Moftha 


lonl  IhdtutaD  cJumli  ii  mIM  r»4(*ii  Kttbeai:  tb«  National  A> 

ii  TMtni  Xririilw*  XAUfaaf;  tha  aoidnloii  ol  Dnttailwi  ii  Tt^ltti. 
.•m. .^^ ■  .V.  iT_<^j-_  iJbrton  tr  "■ «-.•--■-       ~ 


Hw  upwaanlatlva  of  Uw  Uritarian  IfWon  to  Japan  la  tba  Ax.  Cby 

" •-     ■  M.  —  For  tba  addrMaaa  of  thr  -" ™--^ ■'  - 

n.HiirioM,  BiUa  and  TiMt  a 


rt  Boriatiw.  BraMadnl  SohoolB, 

^jUatla  Bauk  Oa^bnnm,  Tam- 

ir  I^Dloilg  SiAntioB  Ai^|Qnintsn,  V.H.CA.  Hoanitala, 

DtoMw.'^'llw'ANUUir^^mln and  SMitf «  Mr<M  an  ratsmSF^ 
■mbr  dHsnat  hawliiica  in  tte  QaiUKxik. 

th*  Jhwhb  Gov't  Smrnqat  oI  Iha  fonicn  pmnn  «f  aota,  and  tba  am- 
biariia  and  tantloiia  with  faw  ameptiona  tnattr  Dear  Ike  Ii^qiaiial  hlua. 
In  Sajimnehi-bi;  or  in  tl>s  agatlpnoa  waida  at  tba  W.  aad  B.  Tba  i 
itanfly  ahangiot  oondiflowaodtbaataadyiaipraTemaitinanAitaiitun 
ttmtlort  in  TAkrB  render  ft  diffieolt  to  Bin  a  eompleta  and  aeemate  fli 


they  are  apt  to  olauife.  AtuMent  tin 


flatirf 


batsii  IB  at  1  Enoldiaka-mBebf.  AJujaka'toi 
1  Ooban-chii,  KaiimBQhiiu  (PI.  B,  4).       "- 

iMhome.  Kajimachi-ku  (P!.  B,  S).  -     

Shiba-ku  (tn.  O.  0).  —  Ruuinn  Embaaw,  1  Urafa 

moD.  KS|iaiachi-ku  (I^.  E,  6).  —  llalian  Embatn,  i 

auta,  Kalim&Rhi-ku  (PI,  E.  5).  —  XuMo-BwiMrv  Kmbamta.  luia-anD, 

KBjimaolu-ku  (PI.  E,  4).  —  Foe  the  addnwB  at  awlecaUona  of  Bdvtum, 

Braril.   China.  Dmmark,  Meiico.     Thi   NMarimidt,    Nontat,  Porttwol, 

Slltm.  Spam.  Saeden.  and  Smiirrland.  ciXKUlt  tba  Japan  DiiHtorr.  Or  the 

In  dBtnJt  Ht  p.  oItS. 

)r  Ibp  permanr-  --'-' 

,_, , lirectoiy.  The 

i^eh  b(«r  the  beat  retiutatiaB. .  It  In  viae  U 

(i»>mp.p.  iiiil).  Bank  irf  Japan  (NippaD  OiokB).  Honryoeaya-ehfl, 

ihi-ku.  —  Yoholtama  3-pteie   Bank,  Ud.,  B  Honrjognye-ohtt,  Nl- 

bonbiriu-kD.  —  Jfilnii  Bani.  Ud.  (Mitmd  OiDkS),  Sunuo-chfi,  Nibon- 
bMU-lni.  —  Vim  Bithi  Bmk,  Yaveiu-cha,  KBJunaohiiu,  ^  Oai /cA. 
Oifka,  Lid.,  I  Kabulo-diB.  NiboiibBghi-ku.  —  ^Ai /ndiutriol  Boiubo/ Japan 
[Nippon  Eo»a  Ginkfi),  1  Zeniaune^hB,  EBjbnaehl-ku.  —  BanJt  tf  Tai- 
wn,  Ltd..  1  Gofoko-obe,  NihoDfiadii-ku. 

Gfaba*  TAbv^  ^ufr  international,  card  of  inUoduotlDu  from  aome  mom- 
berl.Tora'Do-nuHi,  KSjimadii-ku  (PI.  D,  B).  —  Pieri'  Qui  rknoWnalnaa 
tUbW  Club;  Peerace  Clob.  and  ■■  tbe  Katatuhii-kmin).  CcUyama- 
■lilla  iilid  KSiimachi-kti  (PI.  B,  S).  —  The  Mapli  Cbib  ^I^kvan).  on 
Uinla  Hill  (kSyO-ian.  PL  D,  B),  a  lort  at  latenational  dub  and  leatauiant 
eMafained.  oeleontsd  for  tta  aiuaina  Qobatar  dinnara  a  8peoiBltr)>  Ita  geMa 

J. ,,!_  ...__._  ^ .  .__  t^  Bn»i||Bd  for  throu^  >  nmiibec;  aoaC, 

rai),  diplonialle  banquets,  eto.,  ii  well 
nk.  Many  titled  muoben. 

..BwaRnawithbatfa^umaMmanrorwhidi 

Tory  tepotaUon.  Foni|Dan  pattuidie  the  hotels.    Deatdia 
Japanaee  batbe  fTeqi)ently,tben  ■»  no  fine  Tudddi  Batbi 
empre  pmilBi  to  tboae  of  Europe 
rderrad  to  at  p.  Inl.  Tbe  tennwi 
...     ..       -Jf.     .       ,  .    .^^ 

rt  period  Um  oold  rflLu  and 


116    BohOe  10.  TOKYO  Ttarfsri. 

London.  The  former  possess  the  advantage  of  being  propitious  for  kite- 
flying, and  of  rendering  unfrequent  the  yimagx^  or  *  evening  calnii,'  Ddiiob  is 
such  a  sultry  feature  of  points  in  W.  Japan.  The  average  number  of  rainy 
days  is  140.  Nov.,  Dec,  and  the  first  3  weeks  in  Jan.  are  sometimee  fine  and 
crisp,  with  many  clear  days.  The  temperature  throughout  the  y^fKt  is  not 
af9ictive  to  foreigners  accustomed  to  life  in  the  Temperate  Zone,  but  the  long 
summer  days  are  trying.  Typhoons  sometimes  do  considerable  dammff  in 
Aug.-Sept. 

e.  Theaters.  Festivals  and  Flower  Displays. 

Theaters  (geksijo)  are  found  in  many  quarters  of  the  city,  but  foreignns 
usually  take  little  comfort  or  pleasure  in  the  purely  native  ones  —  where 
one  must  usually  squat  on  the  floor  either  in  the  pit  (the  least  desirable  and 
cheapest  location)  or  in  one  of  the  semicircular  tiers  of  boxes  at  the  baok  ol 
the  low  auditoriiun.  The  structures  often  occupy  mean  sites  in  side  streets 
and  with  few  exceptions  are  devoid  of  architectural  charm.  The  plays  are  in 
Uie  vernacular  and  are  as  meaningless  to  the  average  traveler  as  the  aamisen 
accompaniment  is  distressful.  The  peculiar  lateral  aisles  which  project  firom 
the  ade  of  the  stage  (Jbutai)  are  called  hanamichi  ('flowery  way*),  and  are 
used  by  the  actors  (yc^uafia)  and  actresses  (onnayaJnisfia)  in  approaching  or 
leaving  it.  The  stage  usually  rests  upon  rollers,  like  a  rly.  turntable,  and 
when  a  new  scene  is  wanted  it  is  turned  round  with  the  scenery  and  acton  in 
position.  The  latter  sometimes  speak  their  parts  (often  in  strained  and 
noarse,  apoplectic  voices) ;  at  other  times  they  posture  and  make  panto- 
mimic gestures  which  are  interpreted  by  the  chorus  accompanied  l^  samisea. 
Plays  sometimes  begin  at  10-11  a.m.  and  last  till  late  at  night.  Before  al- 
tering, patrons  often  stop  at  a  near-by  tea-house  and  order  food  sent  in  to 
them  at  stated  intervals.  Others  carry  luncheons  or  buy  the  food  offered 
for  sale  by  the  attendants.  The  admission  fee  (kidoaen)  varies  from  25  tea 
to  ¥4,  often  with  an  additional  charge  of  from  ¥3  to  ¥20  for  a  box  (seats 
for  4  squatting  persons)  in  the  galleries  {uzura  ;  aajiki).  (insult  tlie  adr 
vertisements  in  the  foreign  newspapers  for  plays  and  prices.  Lurid  cine- 
matograph shows  abound.  The  Yose,  or  Music  Halls,  are  not  of  a  hii^ 
order.  The  Kabukiza  Theater,  in  Tsukiji  (PI.  F,  7),  ranks  among  the  best 
native  play-houses,  —  The  Imperial  Theater  (p.  137),  known  also  as  the 
Empire,  and  as  the  Teikoku  Qekijo,  in  Marunouchi,  Kojimachi-ku  (PL  F, 
6),  IS  constructed  in  Western  style,  and  patrons  arc  seated  in  European 
fashion.  When  Japanese  plays  (native  dcama,  comedy,  melodrama,  etc, 
and  translations  of  Shakespeare's  and  other  popular  plays)  are  acted,  the 
doors  are  usually  opened  at  4  p.m.,  and  prices  range  from  35  sen  in  the  gulexy 
to  ¥3  for  a  box  seat.  When  performances  are  given  by  foreign  troupes,  they 
begin  customarily  at  8  p.m.  Prices  approximately  the  same.  For  data  con- 
cerning this  and  the  Yuraku-za  Theater  (near  by),  consult  the  daily  new^ 
papers. 

Festivals  and  Flower  Displays.  The  festivals  {matauri,  etc.)  of  greatest 
interest  to  travelers  are  usually  associated  with  floral  displi^.  The  Japa- 
nese, from  the  highest  to  the  lowest,  have  a  genuine  passion  for  flowers 
{hand),  and  flower-markets  (Jhana-ichi)  —  held  customarily  after  twili^t* 
to  the  accompaniment  of  colored  lanterns  and  pine  torches  —  are  conspicu- 
ous features  of  the  capital.  At  certain  seasons,  thousands  of  ffajdy  clad  ttXkB 
repair  to  spots  where  flowers  abound  to  there  take  undisguised  ideasure  in 
their  contemplation  (Jianami).  In  spring,  Tokyd  is  converted  into  a  oapital 
of  flowers  ijiana  no  miyako),  and  many  beautiful  specimens  oi  the  woMer> 
ful  flora  of  the  islands  are  displayed  at  the  local  flower-gardens  (Aanayo- 
ahiki).  Many  of  the  following  festivals  and  holidays  (maUuribi;  kyvjiUiu 
etc)  are  celebrated  throughout  the  Empire.  There  is  a  festival  of  some  Idnd 
for  almost  every  day  of  the  year  in  Tdky5,  but  not  all  are  of  interest  to 
foreigners.  Only  the  most  prominent  of  the  religious  festivals  are  mentiuied 
below. 

The  official  list  of  national  holidays  is:  Jan.  3  and  5  (New  Year  Holiday); 
Feb.  11  (KigenaeUu,  or  anniversary  of  the  accession  of  Jimmu  Teanfi,  the 
1st  Mikado);  April  3  (anniversary  of  Jimmu  Tenno'a  death):  Apnl  21 
(spring  festival);  July  30  (death  of  Meiji  Emperor);  Sept.  23  (autumn 
festival) ;  Oct.  17  (harvest  festival) ;  Oct.  31  (Emperor's  birthday^;—  bora 
Aug.  31 ;  see  p.  cl) ;  Nov.  23  (offering  of  the  first  rice  to  the  Gods). 
numerous  other  bank,  and  minor  holidays. 


mmUmat  :lr(%70  la.  An*.    117 

..  nbw—  mn  deaogaUd  st  New  Tear  with  bnaobaB  of  younc  pSao  tnes 
«dtlsd  irarf»ial«u  ('pinfrdf  the  doorwi^')*  typifyiac  lonaovityt  and  Uthe 
Twambiw  (ayaatbolic  of  umirfitiMw);  both  planMd  at  either  «ideoiF  the  vesti- 
hule.  A  rope  of  rine-  mU»w  {fiMmmfuma)  eimilar  to  the  one  eoppoaed  to  have 
been  elratohed  aeroBi  the  enttanee  to  the  eave  of  the  Sun  Goddoei,  is  np- 
pended-  aoroeB  the  boui^  or  laatpned  to  them  as  an  imdioaticA  ol  qpiins 
fnabnees.  At  tiie  oentral  point  of  the  rope  a  lobster  (tbi  —  *  whidi  with  its 
enrved  bade  wad  Iwig tentacles  istypteal  of  life  so  prolonged  that  the  back 
beoomes  bent  and  the  beard  i^ws  to  the  waist '),  some  fem-^nds  and 
fUMwriha  (laurri)  leaves  (suggestive  of  hardiness) ;  a  fueoe  of  oharooal  to  ward 
off  evil  influences;  a  dzied  persinunon  (for  its  medicinal  qualities) ;  and  a  l^ 
of  dried  bitter  orange  (fbudai)  aymbolie  of  longevity,  are  idaoed  —  the 
called  Mmekiuan.   Two  bamboo  poles,  usually 


whole  being  called  Mmekaaan,  Two  bamboo  pdes,  usually  painted  with 
Uai^  rings  and  topped  by  brass  balls  and  national  flags,  are  crossed  over 
the  gateway.  *  New  Year  calls  are  made,  the  visitor  customarikr  carrying 
with  him  a  "  year  jewel"  (iotM-dama)  in  ibe  form  of  a  bundle  of  dried  sear 
weed  ihoaht^nari^t  a  fan,  a  basicet  of  oranges,  a  salted  salnum,  a  towel,  a  box 
of  sweetmeats  or  the  like,  always  wrapped  with  scrupulous  neatness  and 
endreied  by  a  oord  with  strands  of  red  ajod  gold  or  red  and  white,  the  ends 
joined  in  a  "butterfly  kno%**  under  which  is  thrust  a  bit  of  haliotisCBignif lin- 
ing dnrability.of  love)  lookmg  out  from  a  quiver-shaped  envelope.  Black  is 
the  ill-omened  hue  among  colors  in  Japan;  red  stands  at  the  opj^osite  end  of 
the  oatei^ory,  and  red  azid  gold  ccmstitute  ibe  richest  ocHnbination,  red  and 
white  beuig  next  in  order  ci  aus^oioiMniess.' 

The  shops  are  closed  and  busmess  is  limited  to  the  sale  or  purchase  of  • 
'treasure-ships'  (takara4nine).  toyn  typical  of  good  fortune.  Sweet  take  and 
sweet  bean  paste  (jfokan)  are  hawked  through  Uie  streets,  where  many  gpurls 
in  bright  costumes  play  battle-board  (jkago-ita)  and  shuttleoock.  £te- 
4yiiv  Is  popular  among  bosrs  (huge  kites  are  flown  at  Hothibana-fmmh  in  the 
suburbs,  on  June  5tii  and  6th).  The  strings  ci  the  kites  (aAten)  are  often 
eovered  with  powdered  glass  (a  Hindu  custom),  and  whosoever  can  sever 
that  of  his  oraonent  wins  his  kite.  Dances  are  OTten  performed  in  the  streets 
by  fantastically  apparaled  actors  with  fans  wad  drums,  who  go  about  from 
house  to  house.  *At  the  Palace  and  in' the  residences  of  noblemeQ,  special 
dances  are  performed,  and  wherever  a  shrine  stands  in  honor  of  Daikoku 
cakes  of  flour  moistened  with  warmjwater  are  offered.*  The  Jan.  observances 
are  customarily  referred  to  as  hatsu  ('new,  fresh').  On  New  Year's  Day 
many  Tokydites  repair  to  U^eno  Park,  Atago-srama,  and  other  elevated 
sites  to  get  the  first  sunrise  view  (JuUsu  hinode)  of  Fujinsan.  The  first  mer- 
diandiae  delivered  {hatau  ni)  by  the  merchants  after  the  turn  of  the  year  is 
sent  out  in  carts  decorated  with  flf^ga*  evergreens,  etc.  The  New  Year  fes- 
tivities begin  with  the  Shihdhai,  ta  *Worshiiung  of  the  Emperor.'  The 
Omuhihai,  or  '  Worshiping  of  the  Imperial  Anioestors,'  is  performed  on  the 
3d,  which  is  also  a  big  Buddhist  holiday. 

I>uring  the  succeeding  da^^  there  are  many  temple  festivals;  a  p<vular 
indoor  game  in  which  the  entire  household  joins  is  played  wiUi  cards  and  is 
oidled  karuta  (perhaps  derived  from  the  Bpanish  ccaria).  The  festival  of  the 
Fire  Brigade  (Detatneshiki),  which  falls  on  Jan.  6  and  is  celebrated  at  Hibtya 
Paric  (Pi.  E,  6),  is  usually  of  interest  to  travelers.  Although  cards  of  invi- 
tation are  sent  out,  strangers  are  admitted  without  formality.  Ropes  are 
•tretohed  round  the  esplanade,  marquees  are  placed  in  position,  and  10^000 
or  more  persons  assemble  to  witness  the  manoeuvres.  At  an  early  hour  the 
<Ja«jpTig  of  the  fire-bells  is  heard,  engines  from  the  different  stations 
throughout  the  city  foregather,  and  about  10  a.bc  parade  roimd  the  park. 
ICedaus,  gifts,  and  40  or  more  barrels  of  sake  are  distributed  among  the  fire- 
men, who,  clad  in  the  picturesque  costumes  of  bygone  times.  Join  in  a  me- 
lodious chant  called  Kiyari-uiat  usuidly  sung  by  men  when  uniting  Uieir 
strength  to  pull  h^vy  objects.  After  the  exercises,  amid  a  great  fanfare  of 
trumpets,  20  or  more  of  the  companies  bring  out  long  bamboo  ladders  which 
are  held  upright  and  on  which  expert  tumblers  periorm  astonishing  aero- 
batie  feats.  A  rescue  race  follows,  a  handsome  young  man  dressed  as  a 
woman  being  rescued  from  a  burning  building,  slid  down  a  rope,  and  hurried 
tea  hospital.  In  a  succeeding  rescue,  dummies  representmg  slowwitted 
Mkrie  are  dragged  from  a  burning  fire-trap. 
,aJPun0TLiN&-MATCH]iB  (p.  olzviij  bogiii  about  Jan.  10.  On  ih&  \4tiki  \)be 


Flower  Diaptaya.  TOEYO  10,  BmUe.    119 

KBvAy  also  to  the  Imperial  CluyBanthemum  Party  menticmed  hereinafter. 
Ijie  watOT  in  the  palace  ponds  is  saline.  The  bronie  statue  in  the  park  is  of 
Umaahimate  no  MiktAo^  a  fabulous  eharacter  supposed  to  have  dwelt  in 
Japan  at  the  time  of  the  arrival  of  Jimmu  Tennd  (B.C.  660). 

The  Pear  {na^i.  —  Pyrtu  MiMnaia),  which  is  extensivelv  cultivated  and 
widely  distributed,  bloesixns  late  in  April  and  is  seen  at  its  best  in  the  many 
orchards  which  flank  the  rly.  between  Yokohama  and  T6ky5.  At  a  height 
of  8-10  ft.  the  tree-tope  are  bent  horisontiJly,  and  made  to  form  trellised 
arbors  like  those  of  the  grape.  The  rich,  creamy-white  blossoms  often  cover 
^is  lattice-work  with  a  beautiful  carpet.  The  large  fruit  ripens  in  Aug.- 
Oct.  and  is  spherical  and  somewhat  flattened  at  both  ends;  the  bronxe- 
ycUow  sldn  is  flecked  with  light  gprav  spots;  and  the  coarse,  lumpy  flesh,  of  a 

Sdlow  color,  though  juicy  and  tolerably  sweet,  lacks  the  mellowness  and 
avor  of  American  pears. 

The  Fire-WaUdng  Ceremony  ihitpatari)  and  the  boiling-water  ordeal 
{]/uhanar-8h%ki)^  which  take  place  at  the  ShinshnF^eyo  Shrine  at  Imagawa- 
kSii,  Kanda-ku,  in  early  April  (consult  the  daily  newspapers  for  advertise- 
ments), are  not  frequented  by  the  better  classes,  and  travelers  will  find  it 
difficult  to  get  necur  enough  (because  of  the  dense  and  frowsy  throngs)  to 
see  the  clumsy  conjuring  tricks.  The  fire-waUdng  (a  ceremony  imported 
from  India  viA  China)  takes  place  in  the  courtyard  of  the  shrine.  A  thin 
layer  of  charcoal  embers  are  placed  upon  sand,  fanned  into  flame,  then  care- 
fully beaten  down.  After  several  handfuls  of  salt  have  been  thrown  upon 
the  bed,  various  priests  and  their  attendants  shuffle  their  feet  in  wet  salt 
and  tramp  across  it.  The  thinness  of  the  fire-bed  and  the  wet  feet  explain 
the  immunity.  Anv  one  can  try  it  who  is  willing  to  run  the  risk  of  being 
scorched.  The  credulous  believe  the  priests  are  m  league  with  the  Devil! 
The  ordeal  by  hot  water  consists  in  wearisome  incantations  and  the  dipping 
ci  bamboo  fronds  into  the  hot  liquid  and  letting  air-cooled  drops  fall  upon 
the  naked  person. 

The  Wistaria  (fuji.  —  Wistaria  chinensis)^  a  genus  of  leguminous  plant 
known  in  England  as  the  kidney-bean  tree;  in  Australia  as  the  grape;-nower 
vine;  and  in  America  (erroneously)  under  the  generic  name  Wi^eria,  was 
named  in  honor  of  Caspar  Wistar  (an  American  anatomist  who  lived  be- 
tween 1761  and  1818),  and  blossoms  best  in  Japan  in  early  May.  It  is 
widely  distributed  ana  may  be  seen  in  many  places  (fine  displays  at  the 
Katneido  Garden).  The  Wistaria  japonica  SSera  but  slightly  from  W. 
chinensis,  aiid  is  popidar  for  its  handsome  white  and  purplish  papilionaceous 
flowers,  which  are  usually  trained  horisontally  over  trellises  so  that  the  ter- 
minal racemes  pend  below,  and  the  leaves  (which  develop  later)  spread 
above  the  trellis.  The  plant  affords  an  ornamental  shade;  sometimes  lives 
for  more  than  a  century;  produces  a  bast  from  which  certain  textures  are 
made;  bears  hundreds  of  beautiful  flower  clusters;  and  has  wide-spreading 
branches  and  a  stout,  low  trunk.  When  young,  several  small  shoots  are 
sometimes  evenly  twisted  so  that  late  in  life  the  trunk  has  the  appearance 
of  a  cable.  It  is  one  of  the  oldest  and  most  popular  amon^  Japanese  plants, 
and  is  supposed  to  have  been  brought  to  Japan  from  China.  The  Ktiroda 
family,  one-time  rulers  of  Chikusen  Province,  adopted  the  flower  as  its  crest. 

The  Boys'  Festival  (tango)  falls  on  May  5.  At  every  house  where  a  male 
child  has  been  born  during  the  preceding  year,  a  huge  hollow  paper  or  silk 
carp,  painted  red  and  black,  is  raised  banner-wise  from  the  flagstaff  above 
the  house.  The  wind  fills  the  symbols  and  thousands  are  seen  whipping  and 
gyrating  to  and  fro,  typifying,  to  the  native  mind  the  resolution  which  the 
boy  will  show,  as  he  swims  against  the  current  of  adversity  and  vanquishes 
life's  obstacles. 

The  Peony  (botan;  of  the  genus  Peeonta),  one  of  the  most  beautiful  and 
prolific  of  ornamental  plants,  was  brought  hither  originally  from  China, 
where  it  is  regarded  as  the  King  of  Flowers  {Hioa  Wang),  and  where  it  has 
been  cultivated  for  ages  as  the  'Pride  and  Glory  of  China.'  It  is  greatly 
esteemed  in  both  countries  for  the  supposed  healing  powers  of  its  root.  The 
speoies  most  cultivated  and  admired,  and  which  serves  as  one  of  the  most 

Spular  modes  of  decoration  in  Japanese  and  Chinese  industry,  is  Paonia 
&uian  (Chinese:  mowlan),  or  tree-peony,  a  tall,  shrubby  species,  devoid  of 
frunmce  but  with  large,  rose-colored,  or  nearly  white  flowers,  several  on  «k 
jitillE.  The  most  common  variety  is  P.  officinalia,  an  herb  with  a  \axiBQt  ooixi- 


Farfei  omI  ilf iiwiiifif.        TOBYO  iQ.  Bntte.    121 


Hipqiai  Habm  ill  Nor.  aad  DMHiaod  titaiifloipniaMqrQfWnbeiweiki^Qaiii- 
ing  tlaciagh  a  ooveriny  of  anow^  The  baik  9I  the  tno  reMmbfee  thsl  of  the 
beech.  Tbe  wild  vaiSety  belonghig  to  the  focest  is  oalled !  roMo-teubaJbi. 
Itirimdbied  flowemiqiNinofiilymabeU,  not  awhetal  ftaiiu  tetnainiiig  half- 
olond,  nice  a  tiifip.  In  the  neiohborhood  of  TticyO,  C.  ioooniea  is  usually 
seen  as  a  goodnBiied  bosh;  in  8.  Japan  it  nows  into  a  teU  tree,  on  whose 
bcanehes  the  leafless  mistletoe  (ftoys)  called  Kwetua  articulatum  is  sometimes 
found. 

Bispositioo  of  Time. 

In  view  of  the  difficulty  of  planning  suocessfully  for  the 

rial  tastes  and  interests  of  each  individual,  unquestionably 
most  effective  way  for  the  stranger  to  get  what  he  con* 
ddero  the  best  return  for  a  visit  to  T5ky5  is  for  him  to  sdect 
from  the  foUowing  detailed  descriptions  those  which  make  the 
stcongest  appeal  to  him,  and  visit  me  places  in  question.  While 
a  week  at  least  should  be  devoted  to  the  metropolis,  one  can 

fet  a  superficial  view  of  it  in  1-2  days  and  crowd  into  the  time  a 
allied  inspection  of  the  Shiba  Mausolea,  the  Imperial.  Okura, 
4Uk1  Arms  Museums;  the  Palace  environs,  Ginza,  ana  Uyeno 
.^md  Asakusa  Parks.  The  traveler  is  recommendcKl  to  consult 
^yne  of  the  principal  daily  newspapers  in  English  for  a  list  of  tibe 
«i^ts  of  the  day,  and  Japan  (the  house  magazine  of  the  Im- 
perial Hotel)  for  a  forecast  of  the  chief  events  of  the  month. 
^The  hotel  manager  can  always  render  valuable  assistance  in 
^lielping  one  to  form  sightHseemg  plans,  and  in  getting  special 
'jpenmtB  to  see  private  museums,  etc.  A  bright  day  should  be 
deserved  for  the  mausolea;  a  rainy- one  can  Be  utilized  for  the 
^museums.  The  night  life  and  the  river  offer  but  few  attrao- 
tdons.  The  principal  permanent  attractions  are  listed  below. 
IFestivals  and  seasonal  Flower  Displays  are  mentioned  above. 

^AsakiLsa  Park  and  Temple  (p.  215),  open  daily,  free. 
Commercial  Museum  (p.  233),  daily,  free,  from  9  to  3,  between 

Jan.  7  and  Dec.  25. 
"^Imperial  Museum  (p.  201),  daily,  from  8  to  6  in  summer,  and 

9  to  4  in  winter,  between  Jan.  5  and  Dec.  25;  admission, 

5  sen, 
"^Imperial  University  (p.  191),  daily,  9  to  4,  except  Sunday; 

card  from  the  hotel  manaker. 
Landscape  Garden  of  the  Koishikawa  Arsenal  (p.  188),  daily; 

card  of  admittance  from  the  hotel  manager. 
*Mau8olea  of  the  Tokugawa  Shoguns  at  Shiba  (p.  168)  and 

Uyeno  (p.  2l0)  Parks,  daily,  from  8  to  4;  admission,  20  sen 

to  each  temple. 
Mineral  Museum  (p.  232),  daily,  free,  9  to  5,  between  Jan.  5 

and  Dec.  25. 
^Museum  of  Arrns  (p.  157),  daily,  8  to  5  in  summer,  9  to  3  in 

winter;  admission,  5  sen. 
Museum  of  CommunicoHons  (p.  233),  free,  Sundays,  Thurs- 
days, and  Fridays,  from  9  to  3. 
{  Museum  (p.  2^),  free,  dajHy  except  Sunday,  9  lo  4. 


122    Route  10, 


TOKYO 


^Okura  Fine  Arts  Museum  (p.l60),  daily,  except  Monday;  oazd 

of  admission  from  the  hotel  manager. 
Zoological  Garden  (p.  201),  daily,  till  dusk;  admission,  5 


Sittiation»  Histofy,  and  Character  of  the  City. 

Tokyo  ^  (pron.  toquef'yo)^  or  Tokio,  or  Tokei,  formerly  called 
Yedo  (or  Edo),  the  largest,  wealthiest,  finest,  and  most  pros- 
perous city  of  New  Japan;  capital  of  the  Empire  and  resioenoe 
of  the  Imperial  ruling  fainily;  the  social,  commercial,  intelleo- 
tual,  and  financial  center  of  the  islands,  is  a  huge,  scattered, 
but  orderly  city  in  process  of  transformation,  a  few  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  sea  at  the  N.  end  of  Tok^o  Bay.  It  stands  on 
the  N.  and  S.  banks  of  the  Sumida  River,  m  T6ky5-f u,  Musashi 
Province,  on  the  island  of  Hondo  in  lat.  35°  40'  N.  and  long. 
139*  47'  E.  of  Greenwich  —  practically  that  of  Washington 
and  San  Francisco,  Athens  and  Madrid.  The  city  is  18  M. 
N.E.  of  its  natural  port,  Yokohama,  and  because  of  the  shal- 
low character  of  the  bay  near  the  shore  is  not  approachable 
by  deep-sea  steamships.  The  harbor  is  being  deepened,  and 
millions  of  yen  are  being  spent  on  improvements. 

As  one  of  the  three  Imperial  Fu  of  the  Empire,  T5ky5  stands 
near  the  center  of  an  administrative  district  of  considerable 
size  and  importance,  and  embraces  8  gun  (p.  cliii)  containing 
20  towns  and  157  villages  distributed  over  an  area  of  about 
103  sq.  n.  Within  this  are  542,090  houses  and  2,186,079 
persons;  the  foreign-born  among  which  are  negligible  in  quan- 
tity. The  census  of  1911  gave  the  city  proper  a  population 
(which  is  increasing  rapidly)  of  1,989,833  (of  whidi  881,000 
are  women).  There  are  485,000  houses  and  1462  streets  dis- 
tributed through  15  Wards,  or  Kuy  as  follows: — 


Wards 

Meaning 

No.  of  houses 

No.  of  streets 

Populatioii 

Akaaaka 

Hillslope 

16,432 

47 

07,225 

Azabu 

Hemp 

17,658 

50 

67,700 

Aaakuaa 

Corchoropsia 

crenata 

56,161 

160 

263,238 

Pukaoavoa 

Deep  River 

34.957 

99 

123,887 

Hong6 

Native  Country 

30,762 

66 

131,376 

Honjd 

Main  Place 

40,927 

82 

162,ll» 

Kanda 

God's  Field 

47,154 

133 

148,461 

Koishikawa 

Pebble  River 

23,570 

77 

96,396 

Kajimachi 

Old  Street 

16,685 

76 

71317 

Kyobaahi 

Capital  Bridge 

50,010 

207 

190,064 

Nihonbaahi 

Japan  Bridge 

24,206 

140 

146,366 

Shiba 

Herbage 

34,601 

132 

166.640 

Shitaya 

Lower  Valley 

50,389 

73 

169,208 

Uahigome 

Oxen  Quarter 
Four  Valleys 

22,001 

78 

96,141 

Yolauua 

19,487 

42 

68.672 

1  T5kt5.  which  means  *  East  Capital,'  is  derived  from  the  Sinioo^apMi- 
ese  word  To,  east;  and  Kyo  (or  kid  or  kei),  capital.   Yedo  mranil  ^Bnr 
Door/  from    Ve,  hay;  and  Do,  door.   Japanese  often  call  their  bdofia 
metropoUa  Tokydshi  (Tdkyd  aty). 


Daenptuie.  TOKYO  10.  Route.    123 

These  wards,  shown  on  the  accompanying  plan,  make  the 
getting  about  the  city  comparatively  easy;  if  the  strangier  will 
fix  them  in  the  mind,  it  is  not  difficult  to  locate  any  desired 
place,  since  the  local  custom  is  to  mention  them  frequently. 
Strangers  with  no  knowledge  of  the  language  can  often  get 
near  to  a  destination  by  uttering  the  single  word  Uyeno, 
Asakuaaj  Tsuhijif  Skiba,  or  the  like,  when  addressing  jimiki- 
men  or  street-car  conductors. 

With  the  exception  of  a  few  low  hills  at  the  N.  and  W.,  the 
city  is  comparatively  level,  spreading  out  over  a  wide  plain 
like  a  huge  ellipse,  about  6  miles  E.  and  W.  and  8  miles  N.  and 
S.  with  an  approximate  area  of  37.7  sqr.  M.  The  Imperial 
Household  owns  about  i  of  the  land;  i  of  the  remainder  be- 
longing to  the  Tokyo  Mimicipality,  and  the  residue  to  individ- 
uals. The  most  aristocratic  quarter  is  Kojimaohi,  where  the 
Imperial  Palace,  the  embassies,  legations,  and  governmental 
departments  are  situated.  Nihonbashi-ku  is  the  busiest  com- 
mercial section,  with  the  highest  land  values  (cheapest  in 
Fukagawa  and  Koishikawa).  The  most  elevated  section  is 
Akasaka  (120  ft.),  and  the  lowest  Fukagawa  (4  ft.)  —  which  is 
flooded  frequently.  The  Palace  stands  111  ft.  above  the  Bay; 
Uycno  Park,  67  ft. 

The  Central  Imperial  Gov't  (p.  cliii)  is  represented  in  an 
administrative  capacity  by  a  governor,  and  a  mayor;  each  of 
the  guns  possess  an  executive  chief  and  an  assembly,  while  the 
viUages  have,  petty  local  governing  bodies.   Of  the  4000  for- 
eigners residing  in  Tokyo  about  75%  are  English  and  Ameri- 
can, iJie  rest  Chinese,  Koreans,  Germans,  Frenchmen,  Rus- 
sians, and  other  nationalities  in  the  order  described.    The 
former  are  chiefly  represented  in  the  diplomatic  and  ecclesias- 
tical bodies,  and  reside  in  or  near  the  embassies  and  legations, 
or  at  Tsukiji:  the  Chinese  and  Koreans  are  mostly  University 
students.   The  native-bom  are  not  averse  to  being  called  by 
the  colloquial  apellative  Edokko  (Yedoites),  since  its  recessive 
meaning  implies  boldness  and  fortitude  as  their  greatest  vir- 
tues. Owing  to  the  steady  influx  of  advanced  foreign  ideas  and 
improved  sanitary  methods  which  help  to  decrease  the  death 
Tate  (49  per  thousand),  the  capital  expands  and  grows  apace. 
TJnder  the  stimulus  of  a  singularly  intelligent,  active,  and 
capable  govH,  it  is  rapidly  acquiring  international  renown  as  a 
progressive  educational  center.    It  possesses  a  nimaber  of 
splendidly  equipped  libraries,  universities,  and  colleges;  a 
seiBmological  institute,  which  is  perhaps  the  most  complete 
Sn  the  world;  several  uniquely  attractive  museums;  scores  of 
minor    educational    institutions;    niunerous    fine    landscape 
gardens  and  parks;  and  all  the  requisites  of  a  brilliant  Oriental 
metropolis. 
TCxyo  is  foimded  on  water  in  the  sense  that  the  plain  waa 
'  from  a  swamp  long  known  geographically  as  MusoiKi 


w 

y       rei 


124     Boiile  10. 


tOkyO 


'no  Hara  (the  Muaashi  moor) ;  and  that  water  is  withiivj|| 
reach  of  the  Burfaoe  all  over  tlie  city.   The  355  n  " 
metropolis  testify  to  this,  as  do  tho  442  pumps,  fami 
standiiig  at  iatervale  along  tte  thoroughfares  or  a  . 
canala  —  from  which  water  is  pumped  to  sprinkle  tJ 
This  function  ia  made  nencaaary  by  the  peculiar  a 
soil  (Pliocene  of  the  Tertiary) .   Composed  chii  ^~ 

tary  deposits,  it  is  so  compact  and  tenacious  ti 

nor  air  penetrate  it.    Instead  of  absorbing  the  b 
reflects  them,  thereby  rendering  the  atmoephersjii. 
summer  days,  and  cool  as  soon  as  the  sun  eete.  As  thei 
too  dense  for  the  water  to  soak  into  it  readily,  a  a 
rainf^l  of  an  hour  or  more  converts  the  city  into  a  » 

In  the  abaence  of  other  paving  material  than  n; 

lag  clouds  of  flne,  grayish  dust,  which  penetratea  U 
from  the  Chinese  Loess,  rise  on  windy  days,  and  n 
ing  highly  disagreeable.    Were  the  eity  more  c 
could  one  get  a  bird's-eye  view  of  it,  it  would  b< 
neas  to  Venice  or  Bangkok,for  a  multiplicity  of  oi 
by  477  bridges  (153  of  stone,  29  of  iron,  and:  295  ( . 
and  re-cross  it.  Tidal  wat^  is  considered  the  li. 
districts,  especially  Nihonbashi,  Kyobaahi,  and  i 
tiiB  centers  of  commercial  as  well  as  canal  life.  T  _ 
and  character  of  many  of  the  inhabitants  of  thme  vu 
of  the  others  which  flimk  the  swift  Sumida-gawa,  are  is 
by  water.  Likewise  their  destinies,  for  many  are  dror 
year,  through  accidents  or  by  the  floods  which  b_. 
devastate  l£e  low-lying  quarters  ot  the  city  and  c 
appalling  list  of  vr-' — 

SiEty-threg  m^a  Canala  (AorO  and  amneroUH  braDcbsa 


bBCkin 


Old  Tedo,  prior  to  the  15th  cent.,  was  a 
village.  It  come  flrst  into  history  in  1456  wh( 
(known  also  as  Ota  Dokwan),  a  vassal  of  the  iSi 

of  the  (/esupi  family  (of  rfoimyos),  built  acast 

looking  the  bay,  and  atlet  conBiAe«to\ii  ?v^\it*iM_, 
en  vious  neighboTs  became  tte  actuow\eA^wV«i«a\«t  <ft^ 
Provinee.  In  due  course  \lie  CBat\&  aai  ^'a  ■pwaeAxadf 


edQ.  TOKYO  10.  Bouie.    125 

ately  to  Hojo  UjitsunOf  who  held  it  until  his  downfall,  in 
It  went  then  to  the  first  Tokugawa  Shoguiif  leyaauj  who 
the  structure  and  on  its  site  erected  another  which 
-ed  as  the  seat  of  the  sh5gunate  for  260  yrs.  After  his 
ing  victory  over  his  enemies  at  Sebigahara,  the  celebrated 
ler  of  the  Tokugawa  line  (who  is  regarded  as  the  father  of 
resent  city)  set  about  with  customary  energy  to  make  the 
swamps  about  Edo  a  fit  place  of  residence.  With  char- 
istic  strategy  the  wily  general  not  only  effected  this,  but 
feguarded  his  position  as  master  by  ordering  all  the  great 
\  barons  of  the  country  to  build  their  metropoUtan  man- 
(yashiki)  near  his  well-nigh  impregnable  castle;  to  live  at 
apital  during  a  portion  of  each  year;  and  upon  departing 
leir  distant  fiefs  to  leave  wives  and  children  as  hostages 
st  a  safe  and  loyal  return.  [Bronze  statuettes  of  both 
Hin  and  leyasu  may  be  seen  on  the  stairway  landing  of  the 
t's  oflSce, — PL  F,  6.]  At  this  period  Yedo  resembled  a 
military  encampment,  with  the  shogun^s  headquarters 
i  castle  on  the  Mil,  and  the  dwellings  of  the  daimyos  and 
swashbuckling  retainers  spread  out  like  a  fan  before  it. 
after  mile  of  the  fortress-like  yashiki  of  these  territorial 
Ls  stood  where  the  governmental  bureaus,  the  embassies 
egations,  the  house  of  Parliament,  Hibaya  Park,  etc., 
now;  grim  but  picturesque  structures  surrounded  by 
ditches,  entered  through  massive  gateways  clamped  with 
)r  bronze,  oftentimes  studded  with  bosses  and  spikes, 
blways  guarded  by  haughty,  two-sworded  aamuraiy  each 
his  little  retinue;  so  that  the  great  army  added  consider- 
to  the  population  and  prosperity  of  the  new  town.  De- 
the  earthquakes  which  at  intervals  almost  demolished  it, 
he  conflagrations  which  from  time  to  time  cut  tremendous 
IS  through  it,  Yedo  flourished  apace — so  much  so  that 
period  of  greatest  prosperity  (before  the  collapse  of  the 
J  system  and  the  consequent  downfall  of  the  shogunate) 
jaid  to  have  contained  more  than  a  million  inhabitants. 
1  the  shogun^s  influence  began  to  wane,  and  the  obligation 
ipon  the  daimyos  to  maintain  feudal  mansions  in  Yedo 
be  evaded,  there  was  an  exodus  which  for  a  time  threat- 
the  very  existence  of  the  erstwhile  shogunal  stron^old; 
b  not  befallen  that  the* restored'  Mikado  made  (in  1869, 
day,  3d  month,  2d  year  of  Meiji)  of  Yedo  his  *East  Capi- 
and  established  (at  the  instigation  of  Okuho  Toshimichi) 
sidence  and  the  seat  of  the  Imperial  Gov't  here,  the  glory 
litter  of  the  once  famous  *  City  of  the  Tycoons'  might  have 
ted  forever.  The  rise  of  Yokohama  was  coincident  with 
's  threatened  decadence,  and  Osaka's  prestige  was  seri- 
impaired  by  the  removal  of  the  capital  from  Kyoto, 
jtory  speaks  in  mournful  terms  of  the  disasters  which 
[)ok  Yedo  during  the  early  years  of  its  existence',  ftiea  ^'i 


126    RotOe  10.  TOEYO  OU  F«dk 

terrible  damage,  particularly  when  they  'got  away'  and  devel- 
oped into  what  American  fire-fighters  term  'conflagration.' 
Those  of  1621-57-68  and  1845  left  scarcely  any^ing  bat 
smouldering  ruins  in  their  wake,  not  even  sparing  tne  Imperial 
Palace^  which  burned,  to  be  again  destroyed  in  1863.   So 
tenifymg  were  some  of  these  holocausts  that  the  populace 
became  panic-stricken  when  a  fire  started,  and  frantic  men 
dashed  through  the  narrow  streets  furiously  beating  grast 
drums  whose  booming  notes  echoed  far  and  wide  and  waned 
the  people  to  be  on  the  watch  against  an  ember-bombardment 
and  its  consequences.   So  deeply  rooted  became  this  custom 
tiiat  it  is  still  practiced,  and  oftentimes  in  the  still  hoims  of  tbe 
night  the  visitor  hears  the  deep,  thrilling  tones  of  drums 
spreading  their  triple  warning  notes;  men  march  throve^ 
streets  nules  from  the  fire,  tappmg  drums  and  ringing  belfa^  u 
solemn  and  lugubrious  warnings  to  those  afar  to  prepare  for 
dire  disaster.  In  1760  more  than  one  half  of  Yedo  was  reduced 
to  ashes,  and  11  yrs.  later  a  fire  which  burned  for  10  davs  and 
swept  over  5  districts  destroyed  an  untold  number  of  hooseB 
and  killed  400  persons. 

'The  Government  [writes  CapUiin  Brinkley]  seems  to  have  been  enf^jT 
in  constant  legislation  and  organisation  for  checking  these  catastoophes.  ^ 
first  the  city  was  divided  into  47  sections,  each  having  its  own  bavo  * 
firemen,  and  on  alarm  being  raised,  all  the  bands  were  ordered  to  prooof^S 
the  scene.  But  it  was  soon  recognized  that  the  loss  of  life  and  the  robl^^ 
caused  by  failure  to  control  the  crowds  thronging  the  streets  were  J^^ 
terrible  even  than  the  havoc  wrought  by  the  flames.  Therefore  the  div^**^^^ 
of  the  city; were  reduced  to  ten,  and  a  decree  directed  that  only  the  fr^**'^J5fc 
of  the  section  actually  burning  should  proceed  to  the  place,  aU  tl^^^^ift 
remaining  to  protect  their  sections  against  sparks  and  thieves.    M^*^?^^ 
almost  savagely  drastic  were  adoi>ted  to  prevent  disorder.  Agcain  and^j^^^ 
regulations  appeared  on  the  noticeboards  at  the  cross-streets  fcwtJi^SjAnl 
any  save  the  nearest  relatives  to  repair  to  the  scene  of  a  fire,  and  auth>^^^^X^ 
the  guards  to  kill  every  person  acting  in  defiance  of  that  restriotioo^v^lpllP 
incendiary  was  crucified,  and  any  one  causing  a  fire  by  negUgeace  L^      SS 
liable  to  capital  punishment,  while  the  members  of  the  five-family 
to  which  he  belonged  shared  his  guilt  to  the  extent  of  imprisonment.'  . 

About  the  middle  of  the  17th  cent,  the  wealthier  cif^^JS 
began  using  tiles  for  roofing  purposes,  as  an  added  precai 
against  fire,  and  this  was  followed  in  1721  by  the  im 
(ascribed  to  Hachiroji  I  go)  of  the  fireproof  storehouse  (« ^^_^ 
covered  with  mud  and  plaster,  now  conspicuous  f eatur^^^^ 
every  town.  Conflagrations  continued,  however,  and  in  ^< 
they  came  to  be  regarded  as  one  of  the  inevitable  ills  of  t^^^JJ 
hfe,  and  it  was  said,  *The  Fire  is  Yedo's  Flower'  {Ka^^^^ 
Yedo  no  hana  da),  a  proverb  which  Uves  in  the  vemac^,^^ 
It  is  no  uncommon  thing  for  fires  to  destroy  from  1000  to  ^^gjr 
houses  at  a  time  in  Tokyo;  statistics  show  that  the  annual  ^^ 
aggregate  about  700,  and  that  some  8000  houses  valued  j^?i 
million  yen  are  burned.  To  the  unstable  paper-lamp  (ont^^jL 
the  unhygienic  fire-box  (kotatsu),  the  shichirin  (a  po^^^Sj 
furnace  so  called  because  it  requires  only  ^  of  apennyw^^f^ 
o/ charcoal),  most  of  the  fires,  are  due.  Servants  scorn  the : 


The  Present  CUy.  TOEYO  10,  Route.    127 

dementary  precautions  against  fire,  and  the  surprising  thing  Ss 
;hat  there  are  not  more  each  year.  The  greatest  fires  often- 
ames  break  out  in  brothels  and  bath-houses. 

There  was  no  lack  of  floods  in  the  early  days,  for  then  the 
MUials  were  as  much  in  evidence  as  now,  and  the  unruliness  of 
lie  Sumida-gawa  equally  disastrous;  but  the  toll  of  lives  and 
sroperty  exacted  by  them  was  trifling  compared  with  the  havoc 
wrought  by  earthquakes  —  the  scourge  which  the  long-suffer- 
ng  Japanese  dread  the  moaj,.  In  1703  an  earthquake  ^ook 
town  a  large  portion  of  the  colossal  walls  of  the  castle  moats, 
uid  a  fire  followed  in  which  37,000  lives  were  lost;  coincidentiy 
w  tidal  wave  destroyed  upward  of  100,000  persons  in  the  districts 
*i  Sagami,  Kazusa,  and  Awa.  Of  the  most  destructive  earth- 
luakes  through  which  the  city  has  passed  that  of  1855  deserves 
pecial  mention,  for  the  recollection  of  it  and  its  attendant 
Lorrors  remains  with  the  oldest  inhabitants;  and  the  people, 
Lotwithstanding  their  habitual  stoicism,  fear  nothing  more 
ban  a  repetition  of  it.  Eighty  shocks  were  felt  within  a  month, 
be  most  violent  on  the  night  of  Nov.  10;  in  the  twinklinff  of  an 
ye  Yedo  was  little  better  than  a  rubbish  heap.  Fire  broke  out 
imultaneously  in  30  places  throughout  the  capital,  which  was 
i^ade  as  light  as  day  by  the  glare.  Those  of  the  terrified  people 
^j^o  had  not  thought  instantly  of  saving  themselves,  mostly 
unshed  under  beams  and  debris ;  many  were  burned  to  death. 
"^lie  survivors  took  refuge  on  the  hills  and  in  the  environs, 
^m  time  to  time  the  shocks  were  repeated,  until  they  finally 
^ased  Nov.  28.  The  number  of  fallen  houses  in  Yedo  was 
^timated  at  14,200,  with  1600  warehouses;  104,000  persons 
re  said  to  have  perished.   (Comp.  Earthquakes,  p.  195.) 

The  Present  City.   The  first  intelligent  and  sustained  efforts 

>  beautify  and  modernize  the  'Eastern  Capital'  were  made 
jr  the  late  Emperor  aided  by  the  Municipal  Board.  Both  were 
baseless  in  their  efforts  to  reclaim  the  tawdry  suburbs;  replace 
ledisBval  structures  with  comfortable,  modem  ones;  convert 
^e  unsightly,  outlying  moats  into  well-paved  thoroughfares; 
!:id  change  the  vast  waste  places  of  the  metropolis  into  flower- 
scked  parks  or  pleasure-grounds.  A  splendid  example  of  the 
•tter  is  Hibiya  Park,  long  a  neglected,  unkempt,  parade- 
^ound,  and  now  a  center  for  the  most  magnificent  display  of 
saleas  in  the  city.  Many  of  the  abuses  which  obtained  during 
Xe  days  of  the  shogunate  were  corrected,  and  the  Emperor  in- 
•ituted  many  good  ideas  in  civic  reform.  The  old  two-sworded 
ken  who  once  paraded  the  city  streets  —  picturesque  adjuncts 

>  a  shogun  but  terrible  to  the  cringing  citizen — have  vanished 
ito  the  limbo  reserved  for  such  obsolete  things,  albeit  thdr 
OmaJice  and  history  are  enshrined  in  many  a  song  and  poem. 
Hiis  praiseworthy  interest  on  the  part  of  the  Mikado  in  hki 
ijQfW  capital  soon  began  to  crystallize  in  terms  of  expansion  BSi^ 
toolq;>erity.  The  city  throve  visibly  under  the  impetiaX  \Mf«ft» 


128    Route  10. 


tOkyO 


and  the  ceaaw  at  I8T5  recorded  149,333  ha 
and  565,906,  inhabitanta.  The  environs  < 
beautifiai;  treea  were  planted;  boulevarda  w 
planned;  and  the  Nipponeee  were  ahown  i 
right  setting  for  one  of  the  finest  cities  in 

■eateat  growth  and  development  date  froo: 
_  apan  waa  praetieallj'  freed  from  serioua  inb 
fairly  launched  on  its  unexampled  career 
united  people  began  to  Bhow  their  eageni 
country  and  its  historic  capital  on  an  equal 
of  other  great  nationa,  and  civic  improve! 
theme  upperraoat  in  the  metropolitan  min 
citizens  began  to  found  and  endow  univen 
Bturdy  granite  buildings  appeared  where  f 
thatchixl  and  wattled  hiita  of  the  proletai 
ways  and  other  imported  conveniences  we 
sometime  feudal  stronghold  renounced  re 
Bcurity  and  fell  into  ita  present  atride. 

The  Tokyo  of  to-daj;  must  be  a  far  more 
for  a  Japanese  to  live  in  than  waa  the  Yec 
Formerly  if  an  official  made  a  blunder  hi 
I ea  or  stabbed;  in  default  of  either  he  v 
to  receive  from  some  thoughtful  aoul  a  poi 
by  an  invitation  quickly  to  disembowel  hi 
timid  layman  but  looked  aakaiicc  at  a  pica 
his  head  waa  sliced  off  in  a  trice  and  hiH  re 
the  canal  to  be  flouted  out  t«  sea.  To-day  th 
has  a  voice  that  is  ofteatimes  louder  thim  n 
gun  ia  the  17th  cent,,  and  the  commoner  ' 
rights  to  a  degree  anciently  undreamed  of. 

The  sometime  excluaive  capital  of  the  ! 
agitated  state  of  steady  reformation;  it  la  ui 
HUatained  moulting  season  during  which 
beaten,  historic  plumage  is  being  ahed  and 
descent,  composite  garb  is  taken  on.  In  old  1 
the  center  round  which  the  capital  develop 
and  such  alao  is  the  case  in  modern  Tokyc 
gov't  ofiicps,  theaters,  banks,  clubs,  comi 
and  fine  boulevards  which  the  increasing  wi 
them  to  construct,  and  which  extei 
widening  circle  away  from  the  fine  old  caatell 
days,  are  significant  of  the  newer  order,  an 
the  conditions  which  the  Tokyo  of  the 
will  present  to  the  stranger.  No  longer  can 
that  Tokyo  is  monotonous  and  lacks  indtvi 
the  mcMleru  cdificea  are  not  only  solid  ant 
ciarac  ter,  of  cut  stone,  and  toee  «t  lowt  ^ 
tbey  stand  in  large  oomponoAB,  whb.'j  Uom 
the  flimsy  native  atmotuiea,  no^  oii's  w 


i  CUy.  TOKYO  10.  Rouie.    129 

[le  locality,  but  proving  a  check  against  the  spread 
lenever  a  conflagration  does  cut  a  sWath  through 

1  of  the  old  quarter,  the  alert  and  progressive  authoiv 
by  a  municipal  regulation  covering  such  cases;  and 
es,  which  formerly  ran  like  hair  lines  up  and  down 

the  city,  are  converted  into  wide  thoroughfares, 

2  and  there  with  bronze  statues  or  monuments  of 
iroes.  These  fires  prove  blessings  in  their  way,  for 
>  vast  that  normal  improvements  —  always  neces- 
—  are  scarcely  noticeable,  and  many  years  would 
be  required  to  convert  leyasu^s  old  capital  into  a 
J  Occidental  metropolis.  It  thus  befalls  that  between 
dn  quarters  of  the  city  grow  almost  out  of  recogni- 
en  to  Japanese  who  go  abroad  and  later  return. 
y  Toky5  is  showing  its  commercial  genius  by  absorb- 
ieal  of  the  trade  which  once  belonged  to  Yokohama, 

the  last  few  years  not  a  few  Yokohama  merchants 
forced  either  to  open  branches  here  or  transfer 
r  allegiance. 

btive  smallness  of  the  majority  of  the  ephemeral, 
atral-tinted,  one-  or  two-storied,  pantile-roofed 
Houses  —  which  customarily  shelter  4-6  persons 
istructed  with  the  reserve  idea  that  they  may  at  any 
•ned,  or  shaken  down  by  an  earthquake  —  accounts 
3k  of  Tokyo^s  compactness.  Though  outwardly 
en  tawdry,  some  of  them  are  as  deceptive  as  those 
with  their  delightful  patios f  fountains,  and  flowers; 
their  monotonous  exteriors  often  he  charming  little 
gardens  dotted  with  tiny  pools,  microscopic  islands, 
d  the  like,  where  fluffy-tailed  goldfish  with  pop-eyes 
ded  little  stomachs  swim  beneath  flowering  iris, 
les,  or  cherry  blooms,  and  dispute  the  restricted 
1  captive  turtles,  lovely  cranes,  porcelain  pagodas, 
jronze  ornaments  and  dwarf  trees.  So  spread  out  is 
myo  stronghold,  and  so  few  the  marked  elevations, 
s  no  one  point  from  which  the  city  as  a  whole  can  be 
ional  views  are  possible  from  Uyeno  Park,  and 
X,  and  a  sweeping  perspective  is  obtainable  from  the 
dan  Hill  (PL  F,  4),  whence  one  looks  out  toward  the 
Kanda-ku,  Nihonbashi,  and  the  wards  beyond,  but 
impress  one  with  the  vastness  of  Tokyo,  broken  in 
3S  by  trees,  singly,  in  groves,  and  in  avenues, 
a  from  the  E.  edge  of  Uyeno  Terrace  is  one  of  the 
■ying,  for  beyond  the  intervening  sea  of  dull  gray 
I  rise  the  fine  old  upward-sweeping,  heavily  tiled 

3  Asakusa  temples,  with  their  gilded  crests  glinting 
,  and  hard  by,  the  ever-picturesque  pagodas  ana 
c  roofs  of  the  metropolitan  Coney  Island.  Beyoiid 
«mng  Sumidorgawaf  and  cutting  the  homoa  ^Sike 


130    Route  to. 


TOKYO 


Thel 


Ittpta-l&Euli  spires,  fading  away  into  the  pearly  box 
of  peaks  of  Japan's  northern  mt.  rango.  The  tw 
quently  impre^ed  by  the  singular  attractiveness  ol 
old  temple  rootsseen  from  afar.  Some  of  them  are  a 
complicated,  with  a  maze  of  gables,  involuted  aii| 
and  mytholof;ieal  monsters,  and  throughout  Japs 
the  place  of  the  cathedral  spires  of  Europe  and  A 
of  the  polychromatic  tiled  domes  and  minarets  of  I: 
near  East,  Coupled  with  the  beguiling  views  of  1 
Fuji,  which  one  gets  from  many  points  in  Tokyo. 
would  rescue  any  city  from  the  commonplace.  Th 
refute  the  remark  of  a  hypercritical  traveler  that 
city  of  magnificent  diatances  without  the  magnil 
thoughtful  traveler  could  entertain  this  belieit  t 
seen  thespiendid old  caatlainclosure with  itaeuperi 
coloBsal,  aristocratically  sedate  and  impresaive  ws 
barically  grandiose  mausolea  of  Shiba  Park,  with  tl 
circumvallation;  Uyeno  itself  enshrined  in  its  glo 
of  majestic  cjyptomerias  and  bewilderingly  beaut 
of  flowering  cherry  trees,  or  even  the  broad  Shin 
which  stretches  W.  from  the  foot  of  Uyeno  height! 
in  August,  ia  so  choked  with  a  myriad  gorgeous  1 
that  scarcely  an  inch  of  its  erstwhile  mirror-Uk 
exposed  to  view.  No  well-advised  traveler  to  TO. 
to  make  a  pilgrimage  to  this  enchanting  spot  whei 
are  in  bloom,  nor  yet  in  early  April  when  the  chen 
ideaiiEe  the  park  that  the  beauty-loving  Japanese 
with  a  specieH  of  flower-madness  and  drop  everythi 
there  and  drink  in  the  impressive  sight. 

No  quarter  in  Tokyo  can  be  said  la  be  gjven 
business,  unless  it  be  the  restricted  areaimmediat 
to  Yayesu-eh5,  as  the  Japanese  custom  is  to  live  i 
ness^ — even  manufacturing— under  the  same  roc 
of  the  bouses  are  demure,  box-like  aSairs,  too  tiny 
family  when  the  bread-winning  machinery  is  in  i; 
thousands  of  the  inhabitants  make  the  streets  thei 
ing  certain  houni  of  the  day.  The  saunterer  aloe 
byways  may  see  scores  of  native  products  in  thi 
making  in  tne  little  houses  whose  front  casements 
out  of  sight  in  the  morning  to  leave  the  interior  v 
its  domestic  practices  open  to  the  gaze  of  evei^ 
In  this,  as  in  other  ways,  huge  areas  of  TokyB  ar 
rather  than  metropolitan,  but  adherences  to  age-< 
and  social  regulations  add  to  the  general  picturee 
those  remote  quarters  of  the  city  where  a  foreii 
strange  to  the  people,  one  gets  many  queer  Elimpsi 
of  Old  Japan,  transplanted  but  not  c^iv^ea. 
The  Japanese  possess  t^  Gennatfa  waiwaBS 
atfltieticfi  and  miautfipess,  and  e.  BMup^ucnlA■s  « 


le  Preaml  6iiy.  TOEYO  10.  Rouie.    131 

pt  of  Toky5  and  the  dcHngs  of  its  people.  The  daily  floating 
pulation  of  the  metropolis  is  29,000,  and  those  who  come  in 
i  counted  as  well  as  those  who  leave.  The  yearly  average  of 
uriages  is  13,000,  with  2000  divorces  and  400  suicides  (150 
whidb  are  women).  Upward  of  200,000  persons  live  on  7-S 
I  a  day,  and  envy  those  who  can  spend  10  sen  (5  cents,  Ameri- 
Q  money).  Of  the  752,000  women,  191,000  work  outside 
eir  homes — 59,000  as  maid-servants;  26,000  as  dressmakers; 
,200  as  shop  assistants;  20,000  as  hotel-  and  baivinaids;  and 
,500  as  teachers.  The  majority  (aged  15  to  60  yrs.)  are  un- 
irried.  Of  the  50,000  children  bom  each  year  7000  are  Shoshi 
3m  of  concubines).  The  5200  children  who  are  lost  each 
ar  are  as  regularly  found  by  the  3400  policemen  (average 
ary,  ¥27  a  month)  and  restored  to  their  careless  parento. 
le  same  policemen  maintain  order  in  886  bath-houses;  the  5 
ensed  quarters  with  their  6734  women  of  the  half-world; 
3  1618  geisha  houaes  containing  3938  geisha  (many  of  whom 
bd  the  poUce  a  desperate  chase) ;  the  545  high-class,  and  ^e 
S6  low-class  restaurants;  350  amusement-halls,  numerous 
^ters,  and  450  inns  and  hotels.  To  keep  the  police  well  exer^ 
ed,  they  are  made  to  help  put  out  the  700-odd  fires  which 
3ur  annually;  muzzle  the  12,110  dogs  (7634  of  them  'honest' 
,tch-dogs)  owned  in  the  city;  kill  the  1,500,000  honorable 
s  (of  which  there  are  about  3  in  each  house)  slaughtered 
Qually  (411  a  day);  keep  one  eye  on  the  6000  loafers  (who 
1  themselves  roniUj  but  who  in  many  cases  are  just  plain 
eves)  that  roam  and  dawdle  about  the  streets;  keep  another 
;  on  the  1176  pawnbrokers;  and  the  759  waste-paper  coUec- 
■s,  the  while  urging  the  24,511  caielesa  jinriki-shafu  to  keep 
the  left  side  of  the  road!  The  questions  put  to  these  over- 
rked  public  servants,  who  earn  45  cents  a  day,  but  who  are 
^ays  courteous,  and  usually  unbribable,  have  not  been  listed, 
ere  are  1310  Buddhist  temples  (50  yrs.  ago  there  were 
X))  divided  among  9  sects,  in  the  metropolis,  and  213  Shintd 
ines.  Of  the  123  places  where  Christianity  is  preached,  7  are 
man  Catholic  and  8  Russian  (Greek)  Orthodox.  The  120 
r  manufacturers  ship  toys  (pmocha)  each  year  to  the  value 
li  million  yen. — That  the  Japanese  are  fast  becoming  a 
at-eating  people  is  shown  by  the  fact  that  each  year  35,000 
;ves,  12,000  horses,  and  60,000  hogs  are  killed  in  the  T6ky5 
ittoirs,  and  that  thev  consume  besides,  numerous  monkeys, 
d-boars,  deer,  — and  cats  [which  are  known  to  be  served  in 
ne  of  the  cheap  macaroni  restaurants]. 
The  wide-open,  metamorphosed  capital  of  the  old  shoguns 
w  contains  five  palaces  and  several  imperial  villas;  a  score 
more  foreign  embassies  and  legations;  a  Stock  and  a  Pro- 
t5e  Exchange;  a  Clearing-House;  119  Banks  (with  300  PosteX 
rfnjgs  Banks);  three  widely  celebrated  Universities  (neaiVj 
TJtIi  private  muaeuma  and  Ubrmea);  and  several  \«»ec 


132    Route  10.  TOKYO  The  PrteeM  CHg. 

ones;  an  Academy  of  Fine  Arts;  one  of  Music;  and  a  host  of 
colleges  and  minor  schools — conspicuous  among  them  Maiine. 
Naval.  Militarv,  Technical,  Sericultural,  and  Polytechnical 
Schools,  as  well  as  schools  for  Engineering,  Sui^enr,  Agricul- 
ture, Kly.  Science,  Natural  Science,  Commerce,  and  whaVnot 
The  excellent  Foreign  Language  Sdiool  accounts  for  hundreds 
of  the  polyglot  men  and  women  one  meets  throughout  Japan, 
while  the  admirable  Kly.  School,  maintained  and  conduotea 
by  the  Imperial  Gov't  Kly.  Bureau,  turns  out  each  year  soores 
of  young  men  not  only  well  versed  in  the  science  of  rly.  man- 
agement, but  able  to  speak  English  with  amazing  fluency  and 
academic  purity.  The  Jujutsu  School  of  Prof.  Jigoro  Kano 
is  a  unique  product  of  Old  Japan  and  a  special  feature  of  T5ky5. 
In  this  unpretentious  place  many  young  men  and  women 
are  daily  trained  to  proficiency  in  the  subtle  ethics  of  a  aingiilur 
Oriental  science  in  which  foreigners  have  long  been  interested, 
but  whose  higher  laws  of  physical  dynamics  have  yet  to  bei 
expatriated. 

As  the  greatest  focus  of  the  new  order  of  things  in  Japami 
Tokyo  naturally  heads  the  list  with  post-offices,  of  wluch  tne^ 
is  a  central  office  with  23  lesser  ones  and  205  branches  thxooi^ 
which  225  million  pieces  of  mail  matter  pass  annually;  tinw- 
are 1740  post-boxes  scattered  throughout  the  city,  llie  stam^ 
as  well  as  the  national  paper  currency,  are  printed  attheMLao, 
mentioned  at  p.  140.  Ten  attractive  bazaars  add  to  the  glitter 
of  the  metropolis,  and  scores  of  Commercial  Guilds  coodx^ct 
the  vast  commerce  of  the  capital  through  proper  chMtnek 
About  350  patents  are  issued  each  year  in  the  Patent  OSoe, 
but  so  many  of  these  are  to  foreigners  that  one  concludes  the 
Japanese  lack  inventiveness.    The  municipally  owned  twn- 
ways  (150  or  more  M.  of  track)  carry  about  100,000  passengBO 
daily,  safely,  quickly,  and  for  an  inclusive  5-sen  fare.  At  !»»• 
ent   there  are  12  parks,  but  the  system  is  being  exttfww. 
Besides  the  well-stocked  Zoological  Garden  there  are  2  a**^ 
tive  Botanical  Gardens  and  an  unlisted  number  of  fine  L<^ 
scape  Gardens.  The  annual  flower  displays  at  certain  d  toe 
parks  and  public  gardens  are  scarcely  equaled  anywhere.  ^^ 
of  the  15  Hospitals  (the  Salvation  Army  Hospital  was  openw 
in  1912)  are  modem  and  complete;  as  are  also  the  4  pfl*** 
The  Yoshiwaras  are  located  at  the  cardinal  points  of  the  e^P^ 
tal,  and  being  thus  relegated,  the  main  thoroughfares  d  the 
city  are  freer  from  a  certain  element  than  are  those  of  ahM^ 
any  city  of  equal  size  on  the  globe.  The  extensive  sewer  flfr 
tem  now  under  way  will  cost  about  33  million  yen.  The  *■** 
(safer  to  drink  it  boiled)  supply  comes  from  the  jTomflWJJ 
('crystal  river')  24  M.  away,  and  it  was  first  brought  into  wj 
city  in  1900.  There  are  9  cemeteries  in  Tokyo,  besides  *J?** 
crematories  (at  Kameido,  Meguro,  etc.)  or  kasoiba.  The  w^ 
jopolitan  Kace-Course  is  at  Meguro  (PI.  A,  6). 

J 


TOKYO  10.  RmiU.    18; 

Although  T5ky5  abounds  in  places  of  mmor  interest,  and 
the  strangeness  of  its  street  life  appeals  powerfully  to  the  Occi- 
dental, it  possesses  but  few  rapturous  charms  and  genuine 
fascinations.    It  lacks  the  lustrous,  jewel-like  brilliancy  of 
certain  of  the  gorgeous  cities  of  Britii^  India;  the  gay,  sugges- 
tive whirl  of  St.  Petersburg,  Paris,  or  Berlin;  the  stately  streets 
and  delirious  resorts  of  New  York;  or  the  more  sedate  but 
equally  attractive  haunts  of  London.    Practically  speaJdng, 
there  is  no  night  life  that  appeals  to  the  foreigner;  no  nocturnal 
thrills  strong  enough  to  keep  him  out  of  Ma  bed  till  5  a.m. 
There  are  no  gay  squares  or  plazas;  no  majestic  streets  like 
Fifth  Avenue  or  the  Boulevard  dea  ItaUena;  no  'Great  White 
Way';  no  luxurious  'Lobster   Palaces';  and  no  fashionable 
drives  Uke  the  Bois,  Rotten  Row,  the  Maidan,  or  even  the 
Bubbling- Well  Roaa.    Exhibitions  of  plutocratic  pomp;  of 
diamond-decked  dicoUeti;  of  fascinating  feminine  charms,  are 
wanting.     Nor  is  there  a  Bohemian  quarter.    The  theaters 
possess  but  few  allurements  for  the  average  traveler  fresh  from 
*home,'  and  the  fact  that  the  local  'Coney  Island  '  is  within  a 
temple  compound  somehow  chills  his  vivaciousness.  Nor  is  he 
often  blind  to  the  curious  fact  that  not  far  from  some  big  temple 
are  those  strange  products  of  Japanese  civilization,  the  Fosni- 
wara8,  —  poison-spots  where  dwell  the  glittering  enchantresses 
loiown  as  the  licensed  hetairai.   Neither  codes  of  pride  nor 
prejudice  seem  to  suggest  that  brothels  should  be  as  far  re- 
noved  as  possible  from  temples. 

After  dark  Tokyo  is  a  big  dusky  village  to  all  but  the  initi- 

ted,  and  to  some  an  intolerably  dull  one.  Unless  one  figurei^ 

I  the  diplomatic  swing,  and  officiates  at  the  almost  ceaseless 

>und  of  entertainments  enjoyed  by  tiiat  favored  class,  there  is 

tie  for  the  average  man  to  do  outside  the  comfortable  hotel; 

r  the  few  thousand  foreigners  who  dwell  in  TokyS  are  prao- 

aJly  lost  in  the  huge  metropolis.   On  the  other  hand,  the 

3anese,  who  do  not  go  in  much  for  a  fast  life,  and  who  are 

ily  pleased,  find  the  decorous  allurements  of  Tokyo  so  potent 

t  they  are  drawn  to  them,  as  bv  magnets,  from  all  parts  of 

Empire.  To  hobnob  perpetually  with  a  tiny  pot  of  insipid, 

u-less  tea  and  a  tobacco-pipe  with  a  bowl  no  Digger  than  a 

»t,  the  while  listening  to  the  beating  of  a  tom-tom  and  the 

ful  ditties  of  pantomimic  getshaj  ml  them  with  rapture; 

^nce  installed  in  the  capital  they  regard  with  positive  pity 

ho  are  so  unfortunate  as  to  dwell  outside  it.   Late  diners, 

ight  smokers,  with  the  Great  Napoleon's  ability  to  sleep 

here,  in  any  position,  and  at  anytime,  the  Japanese,  wh^ 

ng  themselves,  play  stronger  on  the  soft  pedal  than  on 

lof,  with  a  non-percussive  pianissimo  effect  in  which  the 

3,  feverish  foreigner  finds  it  impossible  to  join. 

)ite  the  incessant  drive  which  modem  ambitioiliB  «c^ 

Uy  instilling  into  conunerciaJ  Tdkyo,  the  travdec  itfAAi^ 


134    Haute  10.  TOKYO  The  PreaM 

a  lack  of  discord  incompatible  with  so  big  a  city.  Om 
tramp  the  streets  for  weeks  on  end  and  never  witness  a 
see  a  child  spanked  (children  are  never  struck  in  punishi 
hear  a  profane  word,  or  note  a  cross  look.  The  fact  thai 
of  the  huddle  of  houses  in  the  city  have  butaveryUun 
wall;  that  sounds  are  conveyed  distinctly  through  ihen 
that  t^e  majority  of  the  people  live  almost  in  each  c 
mouths,  speak  volumes  for  the  forbearance  mutually  s 
That  such  a  vast  multitude  can  dwell  so  closely  packed 
such  amiable  and  courteous  terms  is  a  sustained  surpr 
Westerners.  Whether  the  free  adoption  of  the  modem  s 
ous  life  will  make  for  the  permanent  maintainence  c 
almost  idyllic  state  remains  to  be  seen.  With  many,  the 
gle  to  keep  heads  above  the  rising  tide  of  hi^  prices  is  pa 
and  that  individualism  is  now  prevailing  where  coUec 
formerly  ruled  is  too  apparent  to  be  disregarded.  No 
standing  this,  the  capital  is  practically  free  from  footpads 
safer 'than  in  many  Occidental  cities,  and  foreigners  can  v 
walk  the  streets  unharmed  at  any  time  of  night. 

Among  the  many  picturesque  spots  in  the  capital  are  c 
reaches  along  the  network  of  canals,  to  which  the  quain 
like  houses  back  up  and  squeeze  tightly  one  against  the 
Some  are  built  on  wooden  piles  and  have  overhangin 
balconies  in  the  form  of  modified  oriels  supported  by  br 
or  corbels;  when  they  are  filled  with  flowers  and  with  a 
song-birds  they  strongly  recall  vistas  in  Italy  and  soi 
Spain.  The  activity  of  the  barges,  junks,  and  sampans 
ply  almost  ceaselessly  along  these  tidal  ways,  and  the  gi 
shadows  cast  by  the  old-fashioned  humpbacked  bridg< 
additional  charm.  The  unpleasant  impression  one  8om< 
gets  in  these  localities  is  that  the  people  have  their  se 
smell  so  atrophied  by  indifference  that  it  fails  to  apprise 
of  stenches  that  all  but  stagger  Occidentals.  The  exper 
traveler  knows  that  *  every  city  set  up  by  the  hand  o 
possesses  a  distinctive  smell.'  It  does  not  take  him  lon$ 
convinced  that  in  certain  TSkyo  quarters  there  are  som 
must  have  survived  the  feudal  period  and  have  been  h 
down  from  remote  antiquity.  The  ungrudging  liberalit; 
which  they  are  distributed  strikes  him  as  queerly  as  do  u 
matutinal  street-parades  of  low  carts  filled  with  sloshing 
soil  —  a  mediaeval  custom  which  deserves  to  be  elim 
from  cultured  Tokyo.  In  certain  quarters  the  least  obsi 
traveler  cannot  fail  to  note  that  exposure  of  person  is  nc 
sidered  justiciable;  that  the  Japanese  harbor  no  p! 
secrets  from  one  another;  and  that  open-air  bathing  is  c 
ered  good  for  the  epidermis.  Unforgettable  impresdo 
the  rains  of  volcanic  ashes  which  sometimes  settle  ov 
capital  from  Yarigatake  Volcano  (120  M.  at  the  W.);  i 
Feb.  2,  1912,  continued  for  several  hours. 


The  Streets.  TOKYO  10.  Route.    135 

The  Streets  {machiy  chq,  chome,  tarif  or  dori),  of  which  there 
are  1418  covering  some  600  M.,  are  nearly  all  animated,  and  as 
full  of  color  andf  joyousness  as  an  Indian  bazaar.  Thejr  are 
named  for  individuals,  trades,  animals,  flowers,  birds,  fishes, 
views,  and  various  natural  objects;  many  of  the  names  are 
duplicated  and  triplicated,  and  very  few  retain  the  same  name 
along  their  entire  length.  Most  of  them  are  rich  in  historical 
interest  —  theaters  of  stirring  events  before  and  after  the 
Restoration.  Repeated  municipal  edicts  have  changed  many 
of  the  picturesque  old  names,  notably  those  that  smacked  too 
strongly  of  the  adventurous  shoguns  and  the  swashbuckUng 
picaroons  who  helped  them  to  make  history;  while  the  devas- 
tating hand  of  progress  has  spared  all  too  few  of  the  bizarre 
landmarks  that  were  living  messages  from  the  days  of  Old 
Japan.  There  is  a  Matau  (pine)  street  in  almost  every  one  of 
the  various  subdivisions  of  the  city,  while  many  are  named  for 
the  bamboo,  peony,  chrysanthemum,  cherry,  stork,  monkey, 
bear,  plum,  rice,  many  kinds  of  fisn,  and  what-not.  Some 
streets  take  their  names  from  near-by  bridges.  Few  if  any 
lecall  military  exploit;  one,  Anjin-cho  (Pilot  St.),  is  named  for 
WUl  Adams  (p.  38),  the  first  Englishman  who  ever  came  to 
Japan.  The  first  Tokugawa  Shogun,  leyasu,  gave  new  names  to 
several  of  the  principal  streets,  calling  them  after  some  of  those 
in  Shizuoka,  and  this  nomenclature  remained,  with  scarcely 
any  variations,  until  after  the  civil  war.  But  when  Yedo  was 
changed  to  Tokei  (then  Tokio  and  later  Toky6),  every  name 
borrowed  from  Shizuoka  or  which  in  any  way  recalled  the 
fwmer  power  and  glory  of  the  House  of  Tohugawaj  was  erased 
and  replaced  by  others.  About  one  sixth  of  the  street  names 
were  altered  by  this  decree,  and  the  old  names,  along  with 
Yedo  (which  is  not  now  used),  were  soon  forgotten.  Many  of 
the  long  streets  have  local  names  that  apply  to  the  sections 
through  which  they  pass.  The  newer  streets  are  wide  and 
spacious,  and  usually  straight.  One  rarely  sees  a  permanently 
fiSthy  street  in  Tokyo;  even  the  narrowest  lanes  are  almost 
always  clean  and  well  swept.  Sidewalks  are  being  added  to 
lie  new  streets,  —  an  innovation  dating  from  the  present  era. 
BUnd  alleys  are  called  *bag  streets.'  The  wide  avenues  along 
the  castle  moats  and  on  the  hill  at  the  W.'of  the  Palace  are 
said  to  have  been  made  originally  for  the  spectacular  display 
of  feudal  trains.  The  shogunal  glories  have  departed,  but  the 
streets  remain  to  grace  the  splendid  capital  of  New  Japan. 
Those  on  the  plain  are  designated  as  Shitamachi  (*  the  lowest 
part  of  a  city  0»  and  those  on  the  hill-slopes  Yarrm-no-te  Ca 
r^on  adjoining  hills  ')•  Those  within  the  outer  moat  are 
known  as  Marunotichi.  Five  big  national  roads  run  through 
Tokyo,  the  most  prominent  being  the  Tokaido,  —  the  one-time 
highroad  to  Kyoto. 


Rovle  10. 


tOecyO 


Tha  CeaBal  Qnuter. 


f 

^B   The  region  hounded  by  the  Imperial  Palace  on  the  W,;  f 
HfiBuiuida  Kiver  oa  tte  £,;  Shimbafihi  Station  at  the  9,; 
■'  Maoseibaabi  un  the  N.,  is  the  busiest,  the  most  densely  p 
hlted,  the  wealthiest  and  the  n^ost  progressive  of  the  mat" 
'  lis,  At  its  W.  limit  a  wide  boulevard  ( Kasumiqaaeki,  u 
prolongation  SakuTcrnioiid&H)  leads  N.G.  to  the  nistoric  E 
radamon  Gate  of  the  Palace,  and  is  flanked  on  its  N-W 
by  the  Buaaian  Embassy  and  the  Foreign  Office,  both  of  wl 
with  the  region  to  the  W.,  are  referred  to  at  p.  159.  Dia; 
opjwsite  the  latter,  on  the  S,E.,  in  Vchiaawaicho  and  in 
eompouod  in  which  are  a  number  of  big  guns  (relics 
Japan-RugaiaWar)^re  the  Upper  and  Lower  Houses  o(I^ 
ment  (see  p.  elii).  The  chief  secretaries  of  both  housea  hi 
their  offices  in  the  compound;  the  official  residence  a' 
Speaker  of  the  Upper  House  ia  at  the  8.  W.  crorner  of  H 
Park;  that  of  the  Speaker  of  the  Lower  House  ia  opposite  tt 
of  the  former.  Directly  facing  the  Foreign  Office  is  the  at' 
Westernised  brick  and  stone  structure  which  houn 
Department  of  the  Navy;  the  middle  one  of  the  ill-p 
tiooed  bronze  statues  in  the  front  yard  is  of  the  celfd; 
Marquis  Saigd  Tmigumicki  (1843-1902),  Minister,  Ma 
Admiral,  and  faithful  supporter  of  the  late  Emperor,  aa  w . 
brother  to  the  il!-fa1«d  SaigO  TakamoH  (whose  monui 
stands  near  the  entrance  to  Uyeno  Park).    The  statue  a( 
8.W.  ia  of  CoutU  Kawamvra,  of  the  Satsuma  (Kag 
Clan,  who  was  ennobled  after  the  Restoration;  the  o: 
N.E.  is  of   Viacount  Nire,  of  the  same  elan.   The  eo 
structures  which  stretch  along  the  street  toward  the  NS 
the  several  Departments  of  Justice  (the  District,  Appeal, « 
Supreme  Courts).   The  green-bronse  shaft  with  a  si    '   ' 
stele  in  the  yard  near  the  entrance  to  the  first  edifice,  o 
rates  the  late  Count  Yamada.  The  statue  at  the  left 
late  CoiiiU  Oki  — both  well-known  Ministers  of  Jus 
I     contributed  toward  the  codiftcation  of  the  Japanea 
LpThe  interior  of  the  building,  with  its  hundreds  of  sma 
Hb  gloomy;  the  N.E.  comer  of  the  2d  structure  ia  the   . 
^BBsidenco  of  the  -Minister  of   Justice.    Flanking  the  1 
■biouses  on  the  E.  is  the  fine 

W^  Hibiya  Park  (PI.  E,  C),  one  of  the  most  popular  of  U 
I     playgrounds  (opened  in  1893,  covers  about  44  acres).  I( 
pies  the  site  of  a  one-time  parade-  and  drill-ground  eml    . 
within  the  Imperial  Palace  incloaure,  and  is  celebrated  loe 
for  its  splendid  display  of  white,  pink,  red,  and  violet  a 
which  bloom  late  in  April  and  are  in  their  prime  early  ir 
TAe finest  groups  are  in  theS,'W.«irneT,nea.T'iiw.^Te!tV-a\« 
faun  and  (akelet  (music  by  the  nuWt&t^f  ba-tiA  ftwa^wa  % 
i  aooa}.  Ai  the  N<E.  end  is  MiotiiMWfti-v.3  ^^^  v™'*' 


KtJffKX 


Htbiya  Park.  TOKYO  10.  BotOe.    137 

taria  in  late  April),  where  one  may  usually  see  some  fine  speci- 
mens of  Japanese  cranes  (isuru),  English  is  not  alwa3rs  spoken 
in  the  restaurant  near  the  foimtain;  one  of  the  most  popular 
annual  festivals  held  in  the  park  is  referred  to  at  p.  117.  Near 
the  S.  end  is  the  (municipally  owned)  Hibiva  Library  (Htbiya 
To8ho-kwan)f  known  locally  as  the  Juvenile  library,  because 
most  of  the  (136,000)  books  are  for  youngsters.  Overlooking 
the  park  near  the  S.£.  comer,  back  from  the  street,  is  the 
celebrated  and  aristocratic  Nobles'  (or  Peers')  Club,  a  pic- 
turesque structure  with  a  massive,  bronze-clamped  gateway 
overhung  by  a  big  penthouse  which  formerly  stood  before  the 
Tokyo  mansion  of  one  of  the  feudal  lords  of  Satsuma  Province. 
Near  by  is  the  Hypothec  Bank,  housed  in  a  structure  in  the  old 
Yamato  style  of  architecture  changed  to  meet  modem  require- 
ments. A  few  hundred  yards  W.  is  the  T5kyd  Club;  and  at  the 
S.  the  International  Building  wherein  a  number  of  foreign 
firms  have  their  offices.  The  popular  Imperial  Hotd  is  just 
N.£.  of  this.  At  the  S.  end  of  the  park,  facing  it,  is  the  office 
of  the  widely  known  Japan  Times  newspaper  (p.  clx).  Still 
farther  S.  is  a  popular  ohinto  Shrine,  the  Htbiya  DaijingH 
(built  in  imitation  of  the  DaijingH  at  Ise)  before  the  altar  of 
which  many  of  the  T6ky6  aristocracy  are  married.  Overlook- 
ing the  park  at  the  £.  is  the  imposing  red-brick  and  mmite 
home  (completed  in  1911)  of  the  Metropolitan  Pohce  Board, 
with  a  bronze  statue  of  General  Kawajif  late  police  inspector. 
The  cream-colored  structure  beyond,  the  new  Imperial  Thea- 
ter, is  the  finest  of  the  metropolitan  play-houses. 

It  was  designed  by  T.  Yokohawa;  decorated  by  Eisaku  Wada,  Soburo* 
auke  Okada,  and  Ichiga  Murata;  displays  a  medley  of  styles  suggestive  of  the 
jFYench  Renaissance,  and  was  completed  in  1911  at  a  cost  of  over  a  millioD 
jfen.    The  most  conspicuous  features  of  the  enameled  brick  facade  are  6  huge 
fluted  Corinthian  colunms  extending  over  the  two  upper  stories;  between 
them  are  tall  French  casements  that  admit  light  to  a  grand  dining-hfdl,  sur- 
mounted by  an  upper  set  of  smaller  windows.   The  involved  bronse  figurine 
crowning  the  smsQIdome,  of  an  actor  clad  in  the  voluminous  habiliments  of 
-^e  extravagant  Qenroku  era,  and  holding  a  fan  before  his  face,  is  so  small 
-that  a  good  glass  is  needed  to  distinyiish  the  details  of  the  work.     The 
interior  is  luxurious  and  pleasing;  Italian  marble  in  various   tints  is  freely 
'used  in  the  floors,  wainscoting,  and  stairways;  native  woods  inlaid  are  em- 
:]>loyed  in  the  paneled  walls.    The  decorations  of  the  friezes  represent  the 
3,2  months  of  the  year  —  Jan.,  card-playing;  Feb.,  grafting  of  plants;  Mfu'ch* 
^^he  doll  festival;  April,  cherry  blossom  and  dancing;  May,  horseback  riding; 
<^u]ie,  iris  flowers;  July,  bathing  at  the  seashore;  Aug.,  the  full  moon  dance; 
Qept.  depicts  the  ancient  method  of  extracting  perfume  from  the  chrysanthe- 
^num  by  covering  its  center  with  cotton-wool;  Oct.,  hunting  with  falcons; 
I^ov.,  boating  on  a  river  with  snow  scenery;  Dec,  the  holiday  market  dis- 
^>]ay.   Each  of  these  scenes  was  chosen  from  a  dififerent  historical  era,  so  as 
'^o  show  the  various  costumes  in  vogue.  The  ceiling  is  profusely  decorated  in 
^(<^d  and  colors.  There  are  sumptuous  retiring  apartments  for  the  Imperial 
^^kinily,  one  of  which  is  in  rose  and  gold,  the  other  having  for  its  distinctive 
^"^      bure  a  Japanese  landscape  worked  out  in  natural  woods.   The  imperial 
_jBB  rise  between  two  massive  Corinthian  columns,  whose  lower  shafts  ara 
imported  rose-colored  marble;  a  flock  of  doves  in  high  relief  adorns  the 
^C^ediment.  Splendid  peacocks  in  all  the  beauty  of  natural  coloring;  Qxc(aasi\A 

brocades  from  the  best  Kydto  looms;  cream,  rose,  and  gold  oeoanilQO'tA^ 

a  best  of  beautiful  hangings  adorn  the  su{>erb,  f<»eign-Bty\Q  inj^unsic. 


138    Boiile  W. 

whiab  JH  by  far  tbo  handBomeBt  oT  tte  kind,  in  Jl 
Bi  fttrciED  playa  ajiaplEd  ta  JauaueH:  requiremtf 
Ihe  b«I  BctDFS  id  thn  liod.  Hero  ths  BtrunKDr 
Miipadied  by    "  "'        '  -  ..      - 

TuralmchO  atatim 

From  where  the  wide,  clean,  and  attractive  Tayi 
P,  6)  deboudiea  oa  Yurakucho  —  which  it  intersei 
angles  —  one  gets  an  exten^veand  Hatiafying  Tien 
broad  pebbly  esplanade  that  aweeps  straight  up  froi 
moat  (where  the  Babaaakimoti  formerly  atooa)  to  i 
gate  of  the  Palace  incloaure ;  here  it  branches  to  rig 
and  aeema  to  encircle  the  frowning  walls  with  its 
tecting  arma.  The  vista  ia  inapiring,  and  few  Oceidi 
can  offer  aoytliine  quite  so  pleasing  as  the  white  ti 
graceful  1];  gabled  and  tiled  roofs  crowned  by  upt 
phina,  riaing  apectrally  from  the  gray  ramparta  and 
guard-houses  «r  outposts  of  the  palace  beyond;  nc 
of  the  ooppor-bronae,  temple-like  roofa  which  riae 
the  green  treea  beyond  the  moat  and  walla.  The 
flavor  of  the  scene  is  as  perfect  as  the  contrast  b« 
fortress  and  the  modern  structurea  which  it  overloi 
keeps  at  a  respectful  distance  —  from  its  verdant  aca 
greensward  flecked  with  graceful  pine  trees  flaoli 
driveway  at  the  right  and  left.  Prom  the  nobly  pr 
outer  wall  that  here  rises  high  above  the  broad  (alm< 
moat,  pend  a  number  of  the  wonderfully  gnarled  a 
pinfi  trees  (/"tmus  paTvijU/ra)  which  impart  auch  a  d 
characteristic  charm  to  the  landscape.  The  bronae 
t«  Kiisiiiioki  Masashige,  in  the  park  at  the  left,  is  d 
p.  154.  Yayeauch5,  with  its  big  ofQoe  buildings  in  t 
nati  or  Seattle  style,  has  the  most  pronounced  foreig 
anj;  of  the  metropolitan  streets  and  ia  significant  O 
entire  neighborhood  will  perhaps  be  a  few  yeara  b 
things  are  more  symptomatic  of  the  modemiMing  ai 
inHucncea  that  are  constantly  at  work  in  the  old  Tj 
tat  than  these  big  upstanding  symbols  of  commerce  a 
In  old  Yedo  the  yashikis  of  the  daimySa  that  onoe 
and  envisaged,  the  aacred  Palace  inelosure,  remwui 
sufferance,  and  at  the  cost  of  complete  self-aboat 
cringing  devotion.  The  present  structures  (re^ardef 
anachronisms  by  the  adherents  of  the  old  nSgune)  a 
moral  right  and  commercial  advancement  —  a  duai 
which  aids  materially  to  soften  the  difference  be 
buildings  and  the  grim  old  record  of  Tokyo's  fighting 
disainularity  of  these  office-rookeries  to  the  tunete 
of  the  Imperial  retreat  is  8mg,vi\ai\3  KppBHStA,\sa.\. 
trace  of  harshnesB.  The  iinpreasicm  cmc  sjuisa'ia' 
ataUa  leaily  t^tw  no  buuBw»  ux  V^  ToaA^sia  <^T 


ie  Manne.  TOKYO  10.  Route.    IS9 

3gated  edifice  on  the  S.  W.  comer  of  the  street  where  it 
is  into  Yurakucho  is  the  home  of  the  T5kv5  Chamber 
aerce.  Back  of  it,  facing  Yayesuch5  (a  sometime 
parade-ground),  are  the  head  offices  of  the  Nippon 
^sha,  and  the  Toyo  Kisen  Kaisha,  keystones  in  the 
apan's  gigantic  mercantile  marine. 

leus  of  the  present  Mercantile  Marine  of  Japan  (9970  ships  hi 
the  Kaiao  Kaisha  (Steam  Transport  Co.)i  established  (the  first 
pire  after  the  Restoption)  in  1868,  and  operated  as  a  coastwise 
.ween  Tokyd  and  Osaka.  In  1871  it  was  reorganized  under  the 
n  Risen  Kaisha  (Mail  S.S.  Co.)i  which  in  the  same  year  had 
the  Mitsubishi  (or  hishi)  Kaisha  (Three  Diamonds  Co.).  In  1876 
absorbed  the  former,  which  in  1885  was  amidgamated  with  the 
yu  Kaisha  (Union  Transport  Co.)  under  the  name  Nippon  Yusen 
ipan  Mail  S.S.  Co.).  From  its  inception  the  new  company  was  a 
a  it  expanded  so  rapidly  that  in  1896  the  world  was  included  in  its 

the  European,  American,  and  Australasian  services^  were  inaugu- 
•day  the  familiar  Nippon  Yusen  Kaisha  flag  ^white  with  two 
zontal  red  lines)  flies  above  nearly  100  ships  and  is  a  familiar  sight 
K>rts  of  the  world.  Excellent  and  bountiful  food;  individual  ser^ 
3,  clean,  trustworthy  shii)s  splendidly  manned  and  modemhr 
and  a  genius  for  making  travelers  comfortable  at  sea  have  made 
K.  deservedly  popular  with  all  classes.  On  their  ships,  as  well  as 
'  the  other  two  big  Japanese  lines,  the  Toyo  Kisen  Kaisha  and  the 
sen  Kaisha,  si>ecial  efforts  are  made  to  please  fordgners,  who  find 
ittle  unadvertised  and  unlooked-for  native  refinements  acceptable. 
IS  and  always  entertaining  national  sports;  the  quaint  ceremonial 
dinners  served  at  some  time  on  long  voyages,  in  Mautiful  lao- 
snsils  accompanied  by  sake  and  other  bizarre  Nipponese  goodies; 
9S  '  newspapers  published  on  board  and  distributed  by  fleet  run- 
dusters  of  Jingling  bells  at  their  girdles;  the  clean  straw  sandals; 
is;  freshly  ironed  bath-kimonos,  etc.,  often  provided  in  the  cabins 
sw  of  the  indications  of  a  desire  to  please  patrons.  Passengers  are 

to  find  their  way  ashore  in  strange  ports  as  best  they  may  (a  cus^ 
lent  on  certain  ships  of  a  certain  American  line),  but  are  landed  in 
aunches  which  seem  always  at  their  disposal, 
stomarily  bear  the  name  of  some  city  or  country,  with  the  mysti- 
laru  (which  means  *  circularity;  the  division  of  a  castle;  a  round 
ford,*  etc.),  at  the  end.  Others  are  named  Chiyo  ('a  thousand  gen- 
3arth  and  sky  ');  Tenyo  ('  heaven  and  sea  '),  or  the  like.  Travel- 
le  Japanese  coast  will  usually  find  the  ships  of  the  above  lines  oer- 
ir  habits,  speedy,  comfortable,  and  safe.  They  are  much  superior 
/  little  ships  of  obscure  lines.  Many  of  the  latter  are  built  to  accom- 
all  folks  and  have  cabins  so  tiny  that  bulky  foreigners  are  S(Hne- 
)le  to  stand  upright  in  them  with  comfort,  and  must  perforce  squat 
r  with  other  squatters.  Besides  being  capricious  in  other  ways  the 
ome  of  these  ships  of  emulating  submarines  is  displeasing  to 

[unicipal  Offices  are  in  the  immediate  neighborhood  of 
ho,  back  in  a  wide  yard.  A  short  distance  N.E.  is  the 
Tokyo  Central  Railway  Station,  the  largest  in  the  Far 
d  the  nerve  center  of  the  Administration  Bureau  for 
lilways  of  Japan,  Korea,  and  Formosa. 

nense  steel-framed,  brick,  and  concrete  structure  (a  landmark  of 
b)  in  the  so-called  Renaissance  style,  is  fire-  and  earthquake-proaif , 
gjx;  1104  ft.  long;  from  66  to  132  ft.  wide;  with  twin,  copper-bronie 
owers  124  ft.  above  the  street;  and  faces  the  Imperial  Falace  from 
li,  partly  in  the  Eirakucho  and  partly  in  the  YayesuchS  distnotA. 
ng  modem  in  all  its  appointments,  and  the  most  f OTeig;ii  oi  «SL  XXa 
le  buildings  in  the  Empire,  it  is  a  unique  example  of  t^  ahilVby  ol 


Tekyfl.  Tho  bronia  statue  in  leant 
ViBcounl  Inou]/e,  who  did  muab  for  t 

Up  the  narrow  side  street  which  leads  N.E.  from  YayesL 

(or  Yoesuebo)    are   the  oflices  of   the  important    Kawa^ 
IJockyardB;  hard  by  ia  a  local  club  eurrouaded  by  a  number  of 
lawyers'  offices.    The  widely  known  Mitsu  Bishi  Co.  has  iU 
main  office  in  the  same  block.  Farther  tuward  the  N.,  srauHi' 
on  the  Palace  side  of  the  curving  canal,  are  the  chi^  Gd 
Offices  —  The  Dep't  of  Home  Affairs,  the  Printing  ^"'5 
(permit  from  the  etnba^sy  or  legation)  where  the  nation^  q 
rency  (the  mint  for  metallic  coins  ie  at  Osaka)  and  p 
stamps  are  printed;  the  Finance  Dep't;  that  of  the  i 
Gazette,  ana  ao  forth.  A  short  distance  S.W.  of  the  MunieH 
Buildings  stands  the  popular  Yuroku-za  Theater  (vaudeviL 
moving  pictures,  juKgUiig,  dancing,  etc.)  and  severd  of  (J 
native  newspaper  offices.    A  busy  canal  spanned  by  aevq 
bridges  separates  this  part  of  KOjimachi  Ward  from  Kyfibtr 


district  wb&  formerly  inhabited  by  retainers  below  the  D 
lamurai  whose  duty  it  was  to  perfonn  the  tea-ceremony  atfl 
Court  service.  The  region  roundabout  was  the  one-time  hi 
ing-ground  (with  falcons)  of  the  ehSgim.  At  present  the  bo. 
of  the  hammer,  saw,  and  mason's  trowel  is  rarely  absent  fa 
the  locality,  and  each  succeeding  day  adds  a  bit  of  d 
the  fast-vanishinK  Tokio  of  earlier  times.  The  fine  aev 
structure  overiooking  the  canal  here  is  the  Ginza  Mbthc 
Chtirch  completed  and  dedicated  (Japanese  pastor)  Jan- J 
1B12.    It  stands  on  ground  (valued  at  ¥40,000)  contribo 
by  the  Methodist  Episcopal  Mission ;  cost  ¥32,000  (¥3001! 
wnich  was  contributed  by  the  Canadian  Church  MiB«on);j 
power  among  foreigners  as  well  as  Japanese;  has  on  oi^ann 
CMst  ¥6000,  and  houses  the  National  Temperance  SMieljj 
Japanese  Language  School  for  foreigners,  and  other  Omr 
Tlony  lines  of  travel  converge  at  the  SuKiyabashi-  bettP 
'  '  h  and  the  Gima  are  a  number  of  prinlJng-establiHh 
j-shops;  silk-mereeries;  offices  of  professional  and  b_ 
_       1,  etc.  The  district  has  a  foreign  tinge,  and  En^I^h  iafl 
most  as  current  as  Japanese.    The  commercial  ambittoii  i*1 
secure  a  location  as  near  as  possible  to  the  popular  Giraa.  F 
The  Ginza  (pron.  gin'-zah  —  almost  like  the  ffin  in  b^ 
I      the  great  retail  thoroughfare  (PI.  P,  6-7)  of  the  city;  the  Dt 
^«et,  noisiest,  unhandsomest,    and  most  flamboyaat  of  ■ 
B&etro^o/ilan  streets,  is  the  beat  kiio'Ni^  <A  riXXoiOTfti^    "  " 
^Bom  it  ia  often  called  the  Btoa(\wB.v  o^  Tiife-so ,  Vs.  S 
^^tee  from  the  '  mint  far  ailver  coiaa'  wtotAi  once  ^t^j^ 


i 


^The  Gifusa.  TOEYO  10.  BmiiB.    141 

which  in  turn  was  faced  by  a  number  of  small  shops  of  workers 
in  silver.  Relatively  speaking  it  is  a  short  section  in  the  old 
TOkaido  which  anciently  stretched  from  the  famed  Nihonbashi 
to  Kyoto.  It  is  suppoised  to  include  but  four  short  blocks 
{Itchome,  1st;  Nichomef  2d:  Sanchome,  Sd\  and  Shichome,  4th) 
between  Owaricho  (near  Shimbashi  station)  and  KyObae^, 
albeit  by  extension  it  is  (erroneously)  believed  to  stretch  from 
Shimbashi  (bridge)  to  the  Japan  Bridge  (and  even  beyond). 
In  the  early  days  what  is  now  Owaricho  was  called  Shimbashi- 
d5ri,  but  after  the  latter  rose  in  its  new  character  of  brick  and 
stone,  from  the  ashes  of  the  wooden  structures  burned  in  the 
big  fire  of  1872,  it  was  eddied  the  New  Town^  and  later  bv  its 
present  name.  The  city  records  show  that  the  ever-helpful 
paternal  Gov't  erected  &e  first  brick  and  stone  houses  here,  in 
order  to  improve  the  archaic  style  of  infiatnmable  house  and 
increase  the  immunity  from  fires,  then  rented  or  sold  them  on 
long-time  payments. 

As  the  greatest  of  the  commercial  arteries  which  traverse 
the  metropolis  from  S.W.  to  N.E.,  Gima  with  its  prolongations 
is  the  least  exclusively  Japanese.    It  outstrips  all  the  other 
streets  in  its  cosmopolitanism,  yet  none  offer  a  more  com- 
prehensive epitome  of  Old  Japan.   A  double  line  of  electric 
street-cars  pulse  through  its  center  and  add  their  din  to  the 
throng  of  jinrikis,  push-carts,  steam-kitchens,  bicycles,  motor- 
cars, state  carriages  preceded  by  running  and  shouting  foot- 
men, and  to  the  hurryins  throng  of  busy  commoners.   Just 
now  it  is  in  a  transitional  stage,  and  its  host  of  shops  in  the 
native  and  foreign  style  expose  for  sale  almost  everything 
from  steam-engines  to  sea-weed,  and  from  motor-cars  to  seed- 
peaxls;  a  few  of  these  shops  are  imposing,  with  representative 
6tocks  and  attractive  window  displays  —  an  art  in  which  cer- 
tain Japanese  excel.    The  plate-glass  fronts  of  some  —  filled 
^vdth   new-fanned  Yankee  notions  or  Brummagem  oroide 
Jewelry,  with  Parisian  corsets  and  New  England  watches  — 
excite  the  unrestrained  wonder  of  the  simple  country  yokels, 
^vrho  stand  enthralled  before  them  in  much  the  same  way  as 
-the  uitlander  does  in  front  of  the  native  shops.    In  both 
oases  the  observers  can  oftentimes  only  guess  at  the  uses  of 
many  of  the  things  exposed  for  sale,  for  Tokyo  is  the  greatest 
i-etail  center  for  native  products  in  the  Empire,  and  to  this 
liuge  emporium  come  specimens  of  the  wonderful  handicraft  of 
people  from  the  remotest  provinces.   The  human  side  of  the 
Qima  is  always  interesting  to  tourists,  and  to  the  critical 
person  unfamiliar  with  life  in  rural  Japan,  it  is  doubly  so.  In 
April  and  Sept.,  when  the  country  farmers  and  their  wives  (not 
imfrequently  in  the  Mormon  sense  of  the  word)  are  freed  for  a 
few  brief  days  from  the  thraldom  of  their  crops,  they  forei^ather 
here  to  see  and  to  be  seen;  to  enjoy  a  furtive  holiday  m  Wi^ 
mr  capital,  and  to  spend  iheirlast  fin  chaffering  for  OccidenXiaX 


42    Route  10.  TOEYO  Tim 

f 

4 

lins^e-dans^es  with  which  to  while  away  the  tedioiu  hban  at 
aome  and  amaze  their  less  fortunate  townspeople^  At  tfaesB 
times  perhaps  more  than  at  any  other,  the  stranger  is  the  most  / 

impressed  by  the  sweeping  democracy  of  the  Japanese  lUBtiov        (  ' 
in  the  matter  of  clothes  —  or  the  lack  of  them.  To  the  untu-  ^ 

tored  Western  mind  some  of  these  honest,  whole-eouled.  ezoel*  « 

lent!  V  ignorant  clodhoppers  escape  bein^  considered  f  reain  cnJy         V 
by  the  narrowest  squeak,  and  that  this  estimate  is  oordiaI)7  ^ 

reciprocative,  and  is  uppermost  in  the  minds  of  the  bumpkins 
themselves,  is  shown  by  their  wide-eyed  interest  in  sonie  m  th» 
foreigners  they  encoimter,  and  in  their  manifest  efforts  to  keep 
their  homely  faces  straidit  and  the  tears  of  laughter  out  oi 
their  bead-black  eyes.  The  cordiality  with  .which  the  £k»t  and 
the  West  commingle  is  one  of  the  pleasing  features  of  the  street^ 
the  one  discordant  note  being  made  by  the  light-fingered  pidE-'  — 
pockets  (of  which  there  is  no  dearth)  who  drift  with  the  crowd 
and  lose  no  opportunity  to  annex  Western  gewgaws  and  wal* 

lets.  The  kaleidoscopic  throng  which  pulsates  steadily  atong: 

the  Gima  from  dawn  to  late  at  night  —  the  wrestlers,  jug^en,.  .^  -^ 
venders,  geisha,  and  those  that  combine  to  form  the  Ja] 
proletariat  —  make  up  to  the  visitor  for  its  unlovely  ne 
It  is  a  joyous,  colorful,  naive,  good-tempered,  and  easil; 
pleased  assemblage,  plentifully  sprinkled  witn  adorable  shaTen 
pated,  brightly  clad  children;  a  strange  but  fasdnaldng  miD 
gling  of  the  new  and  the  old.  Colored  lanterns,  thousands  oi 
waving  ideographic  banners,  and  a  host  of  shop-sig^  almost 
artistically  satisfying  as  the  stocks  they  advertise,  all 
tribute  to  the  general  animation.  Many  of  the  Japanese  still  kee] 
step  with  the  old  regime  and  scrupulously  adhere  to  the 
vanishing  customs  of  feudal  days.  An  occasional  grave,  dign^^- 
fied  samurai  descendant  may  sometimes  be  seen  pidang  hfi-tf 
way  gingerly  along  the  street,  his  mind  on  the  past  but  with  ^^ 
prudent,  apprehensive  eye  on  the  on-rushing  trolleys  and  th.^ 
speeding  motor-cars.   Scores  of  the  old  observances  still  prc3 
vail,  and  scarcely  a  week  passes  that  one  may  not  see  some  sox*^ 
of  a  mediaeval  procession  wending  its  flamboyant  way  across 
the  metropolis,  in  a  blaze  of  color  and  to  the  sound  of  wiic^ 
minstrelsy.  These  are  most  frequent  in  the  vicinity  of  the  bif 
temples  and  shrines  which  the  traveler  with  time  to  spare  wiu 
do  well  to  seek  out.  While  certain  among  them  are  tinselly  and 
devoid  of  great  interest,  others  are  strangely  attractive,  aiMf 
suggest  an  amazing  amount  of  thought  and  ingenuity.  WherB 
the  festival  symbolizes  a  dmmyd  procession  or  something  of 
the  sort,  the  bewilderingly  beautiful  costumes  are  as  rich  and 
varied  as  those  seen  at  high-priced  theaters,  and  the  onlodker 
is  transported  back  centuries  into  the  heyday  of  the  extravar 
gant  Cfenroku,  or  some  such  historic  period,  now  immortaUMd 
by  the  hallowing  effect  of  the  fleeting  years.  Even  the  fuDenl 
proceaaona  attract  and  hold  the  attention  by  tiieir  oddity. 


in  of  the  costumes  of  the  Buddhist  aad  Skinto  priests  are 

prdinarily  attractive,  particularly  those  worn  on  state 

bns.  A  cleric  in  full  canonicals  never  faila  to  strike  a  pio- 

lue  note  in  any  surroundings. 

Q  somewhat  freakish  architecture  of  the  houses  which  face 

inza  and  its  prolongations  is  merely  expressive  of  a  naive 

Dg  for  something  foreign  and  better  than  the  squat  little 

}ures  which  for  so  long  have  characterized  tins  street. 

lese  ideas  of  foreign  styles  find  bizarre  expression  here,  and 

;1^  an  architectonic  feature  is  wanting  in  some  of  the  rest-  j 

difices  which  stand  cheek  by  jowl  with,  and  tower  super-  j 

sly  above,  the  modest  little  places  of  the  more  conserva-  I 

element.    There  is  almost  as  much  irregularity  as  on  > 

Iway,  New  York.  Size  without  majesty,  individuality  di-  J 

d  from  all  dignity  or  simplicity,  and  convenience  rather  I 

fitness  or  sobriety  are  the  salient  characteristics  of  this  i 

>ural  hodge-podge.  Ginza  is  considered  the 'show  street 'of  ' 

o,  but  ri^t  now  it  shows  conclusively  that  whenever  the 

lese  disobey  the  spiritual  warnings  of  their  own  unique  and  » 

sendentally  beautiful  art,  and  rashly  borrow  from  alien 

38,  they  commit  solecisms  of  which  the  foreigner  finds  it  i 

bo  believe  them  guilty.  Here  and  there  along  {he  Japan-  i 

-oadway  one  sees  the  suggestion  of  a  fine  effect,  but  only  ! 

^estion.  Anywhere  but  in  Japan,  with  its  surging,  colorful  I 

lal  life,  it  would  be  considered  ordinary.  As  it  is,  the  lack  I 

idemic  restraint  in  the  showy  exteriors  of  some  of  the  i 

•  structures  is  strangely  at  variance  with  one's  precon- 

i  ideas  of  Japanese  masterfulness  ill  art.    Shoidder  to 

ier  with  rickety,  weather-beaten  reli<ls  of  feudal  days,  or 

ing  against  florid  examples  of  a  remote  frontier  type,  one 

ew,  so-called  foreign  style  edifices  flaunting  the  fag  ends  ! 

fa  dozen  semi-classical  styles;  the  whole  so  inharmoni- 

i  its  smug  complacency,  and  so  viciously  offensive  in  its 

lality  that  the  entire  neighborhood  seems  poisoned  or  ' 

d  by  its  unmitigated  materialism.  Not  a  few  have  been 

led  with  modern  fagades  to  mask  a  mediaeval  torso,  and 

y  the  windows  stare  out  like  lidless  eyes  gazing  into  a  I 

388  future.  The  fronts  of  certain  houses  are  covered  with 

lain;  not  the  beautiful  polychrcHne  tiles  which  impart  j 

charm  to  domes  and  seigniorial  mansions  in  Moorish  { 

,  —  and  which  the  Japanese  know  so  well  how  to  make,  —  j 

uish  colors  that  affect  the  nerves  like  a  shriek,  and  which  ! 

heir  way  through  the  landscape  and  browbeat  everything  | 

I  neighlJorhood.  The  exquisite  taste  which  the  Japanese  j 

y  so  abundantly  in  their  daily  life  and  its  appurtenan- 

>es  not  here  extend  to  the  shop  fagades. 

9  the  merchandise  displayed  in  the  shops,  and  the  people 

my  it,  that  rescue  Ginza  from  mediocrity;  for  co&\i\lEcvei& 


tOkyO 

_ .  y  person  one  meate  forms  some  kind  of  a  pictorial  unit  in  _ 
Utiafying  kaleidoscopic  whole.  So  interesting  are  they  that 
the  most  critical  traveler  finds  scant  time  to  condemn  the 
architectural  medley.  After  nightfall,  (riTua  is  converted  into 
one  of  the  most  picturesque  districts  in  the  citv;  during  certain 
festival  perioda  (usually  the  7th,  18th,  and  29tli  of  each  month) 
itinerent  vendors  establish  theEnselves  along  the  outer  edge  (rf 
the  sidewalks  and  spread  out  quite  alluring  displays  of  old 
bronzes,  wood-cut  prints,  miacellaneous  cunos,  second-hand 
books,  and  a  host  of  sweets,  eatables,  and  knick-knacks  which 
they  sell  by  the  light  of  flaring  torches  or  daintily  decorated 
paper  lanterns.  It  is  tJien  that  darkness  mercifully  softens  the 
outhnes  of  the  hybrid  structures,  and  with  the  thousands  of 
lil^ts  like  dancing  glowworms,  Japan  reasseriis  itself  in  its 
fairy-Uke  fascination. 

At  the  nondescript  Kyobashi  (bridge)  the  Ginza  bends 
slightly  toward  the  N.W.,  broadens,  and  merges  its  tumultu- 
CfUs  identity  with  Minamidemma-cbo,  which,  with  Nakabashj 
and  TSri-cho  (its  prolongations),  cross  the  dividing-line  be- 
tween KyObashi-ku  and  Nihonbafjii-ku,  and  traverse  the  15  or 
moreehort  blocks  intervening  between  it  and  the  famous  Japan 
Bridge.  Just  at  the  left  of  the  Evobashi  one  of  the  largest  of 
the  city's  vegetable  markets  flanKs  the  busy  canal  and  offers 
many  picturesque  sights  in  the  early  morning.  The  hoet  of 
stTange  and  unpoetic  vegetables  are  not  without  interest  to 
those  concerned  in  the  Far  Eastern  Leguminosm,  while  the 
crush  of  quaint  junks  on  the  canal  and  the  odd  costumes  of  the 
bumpkins  who  pilot  them  hither  furnish  endless  materials  for 
writer  or  artist.  Beyond  the  Kyobashi,  the  street  crush  is  even 
greater  than  on  Ginza  proper,  and  to  relieve  it,  a  clean  and 
attractive  little  street  called  Nakadori  {'interior  st.'),  bearing 

?'actically  the  same  relation  to  it  that  Nassau  does  to  New 
ork's  Broadway,  parallels  it  at  the  right  (E.)  along  its  entire 
length.  It  is  through  this  smoothly  swept,  narrow  artery  that 
the  jinriki-runners  usually  dart  on  their  cross-town  scampers, 
and  here  stand  many  of  the  small  but  beguiling  curio-^ops 
that  have  been  crowded  oS  the  main  st.,  or  whiui  awmt  their 
turn  to  squeeze  into  it.  Renti9  are  considerably  cheaper  hne 
than  on  the  Gvaa  or  its  extensions.  Here,  along  the  convera- 
ing  byways  of  this  greatest  of  Par  Eastern  capitals,  old  YeiKi 
sometimes  asserts  itself,  and  the  winsome  life  of  the  early  days 
pulsates  in  its  harmony  of  color  and  picturesqucness.  In  some 
of  these  streets,  the  real  Nipponese  flavor  is  stUl  retained, 
unroarred  by  the  faintest  smooch  of  unpliant  Occidental  uni- 
formity. Imbued  with  the  faith  and  tiie  mental  tranquilli^ 
and  joyousness  derived  from  the  gentle  teachings  of  the  Buu- 
^biat  and  Shinto  creeds;  appaietilVy  oWwvduroC  the  hurried 
tuid  souJ-cruahing  strenuoaitv  oi  \!oc  aA\BftCQ\.  \}&sAovuMa«», 
fflany  of  the  div^ers  hereaiwutp'irBWs'Otte  wjtsn^Rniidjjifc 


umoaam,  runYU  w.  Koute.    145 

ways,  surrounded  b^  symbols  of  the  old  aad  cherished 
OS,  and  living  the  hves  of  their  forebears  in  much  of 
istine  simplicity. 

ommercisJ  activity  of  the  city  may  be  said  to  reach  its 
a  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  new  and  stately  Nihon- 
whence  it  radiates  up  the  converging  streets,  with  a 
t  trend  toward  Uyeno  at  the  N.  Near  this  important 
}ile  focus  are  a  few  modest  sky-scrapers;  some  of  the 
of  the  city  banks;  the  central  post-office;  the  largest 
letropolitan  department  stores;  and  one  of  the  greatest 
•kets  in  the  Empire.  The  architectural  hodge-podge  is 
e  as  that  we  have  just  left,  but  the  extreme  animation 
letian  flavor  of  the  region  offset  it.  The  canal  which 
3neath  the  bridge  is  one  of  the  widest  and  busiest  in 
,  and  the  incessant  movement  of  the  archaic  boats  and 
lople  are  of  unfailing  interest.  Old  color-prints  of  the 
Eishi  C Japan,'  or  'Sunrise  Bridge')  show  it  as  being 
and  narrower  than  the  present  structure,  and  to  have 
ide  of  wood,  arched  like  the  half  of  a  huge  drum,  and 
wood  posts  surmounted  by  ornamental  bronze  giboahu 
till  popular  adornments  for  bridges  and  temple  railings 
out  Japan.  In  the  old  days  palanquins  occupied  the 
the  present  jinriki,  and  many  of  the  pictures  in  ques- 
)W  them  being  carried  across  the  quaint  old  structure. 
:ar  end  rose  the  customary  ladder-like  fire-tower  with 
)ut  or  crow's  nest  and  bell,  where  watchmen  constantly 
i  the  sea  of  roofs  for  the  dreaded  '  Yedo  Flower.'  The 
of  this  most  celebrated  of  all  the  metropolitan  bridges 
structed  in  1603,  and  the  present  one,  standing  on  the 
,  wooden  bridge  built  in  1872  and  demolished  in  1907, 
3f  the  dynasty.  It  is  a  solid  and  attractive  structure 
black-speckled  granite,  in  the  Renaissance  style,  162 
60  ft.  wide,  with  additional  12  ft.  sidewalks  on  each 
i  was  completed  in  1911  at  a  cost  of  623,890  yen.  The 
griffins  and  other  ornamental  bronze  figures  which  en- 
candelabra  are  after  Japanese  and  European  designs, 
nese  artists.  The  name,  Nihonbashi,  engraved  on  the 
liar,  is  a  facsimile  of  the  chirography  of  Prince  Tokvr 
'.eiki,  last  in  the  line  of  the  Tokugawa  shogunate.  A 
;  and  significant  ceremony  marked  the  official  opening 
ome,  or  *  first  crossing')  of  the  bridge,  April  3,  1911. 
mbolized  the  oldest  structure  built  in  the  neighborhood 
an  hands,  and  by  a  logical  sequence  was  supposed  to 
a  special  affinity  for  those  addicted  to  longevity,  it 
fitting  that  after  Prince  Tokugawa  had  crossed  it,  the 
follow  should  be  the  person  who  had  lived  the  longest 
mmediate  vicinity.  Therefore,  Mrs.  Kojima  Fusa^  a 
y  lady  109  years  young,  tripped  daintily  after  \mn,  dSid 


146     Route  10. 


TOKYO 


Tfa 


81  to  89  yeara.  All  were  accomnaniod  by  vocifero 
('hurrah';  'ten  thousand  years')  ghouted  from  th 
throata.  A  gUttering  procession  representlag  ancier 
aatnurai,  and  other  swaKgering  bladea ;  one  of  brill 
geisha  and  Bimilar  light-hearted  folli,  and  a  few  mi; 
followed,  anii(i  unrestrained  rt-ioicina;. 

The  NiaOKBABHi  is  known  throughout  Japan  by 
and  it  ia  almost  as  much  a  feature  of  the  Empire  a 
peror  himself .  Feware  the  cities  and  towna  that  do  i 
at  least  one  copy  or  miniature  of  it.  All  the  roads  o 
island  of  Hondo  are  suppmed  to  terminate  here,  ju 
of  ancient  Italy  led  to  Rome.  Distances  ore  calculal 
and  all  the  old  daimyo  processions  which  name 
KyQto  and  beyond  after  Ieya»u  made  Yedo  his  see 
started  from  the  bridg^  on  their  return.  As  the  orij 
ins  point  of  the  Tokaido,  it  is  number  one  in  Hit, 
celebrated  views  of  the  old  highway.  It  has  alwa^ 
favorite  theme  of  the  wonderful  color-print  maker) 
as  well  as  that  of  artiata  in  other  iinea.  Crirainals 
garded  Oie  bridge  with  abhorrence,  as  their  heads 
adorned  iU  approaches  as  wamin^a  to  other  mist 
famous  rest-house,  often  mentioned  in  history,  on( 
the  8.E.  comer,  where  the  land  is  now  nonsidraed 
valuable  in  the  city.  A  short  distance  W.  of  Nih 
Gofukubaabi  ('dry-gooda  bridge'),  beyond  which,  t<i 
is  the  big  Cbntral  Railway  Station. 

A  short  walk  E.  of  Nihrmbaahi,  and  visible  th( 
Edobashi  ('Yedo  bridge'),  the  important  junction 
fluvial  thorouahtares,  and  quite  near  the  busy  Ka 
Here  stands  the  Stock  Exchange  which  gives  the  i 
name,  'the  Japanese  Wall  Street.'  The  great  nati' 
sugar,  silk,  and  rice,  and  leaa  tangible  stocks  and 
the  commodities  dealt  in  chiefly  here  and  at  th 
Exchange  near  by,  where  some  of  the  keenest  brain 
are  pitted  against  each  other,  and  a  sort  of  pan' 
reigns  during  certain  hours  of  the  day.  The  fine  mix 
ing  just  around  the  comer  from  the  Cbntbai.  Pa 
which  also  stands  here,  is  the  Dairlchi  GinkB,  a  po 
financial  world.  The  Mitsui  Family  ~  the  Astoiso 
own  considerable  property  hereabout,  where  neai 
offices  are  occupied  by  brokers  and  speculators. 

Between  the  Nitumbaxhi  and  the  Edobtuhi  is  a  i 
brick  godowns  with  their  back  doora  opening  out  on 
They  are  the  nnost  important  Salt-Fish  Wareroom 
and  are  the  laraest  distributing-point  of  the  mi 
Pafi£c  salmon  (Oncitrh'ifnchus)  for  which  N.  Jape 
brated.  About  Nov,  1  ot  eac\i  yeat,  stejNixAa  <A 
salted  salmon  (shake,  or  soke)  be©n.Ui  BiAve^wsia, 
^ts  iUBtributed  bioadoset  ovet  ^e  cvVj  Bwi  ^Xiei 


Bank  of  Japan.  TOEYO  iO.  Route.    147 

as  Manchuria  and  the  distant  interior  of  China.  Upward  of 
130  million  lbs.  valued  approximately  at  7  million  yen  pass 
throu^  this  great  mart  during  the  winter  season,  at  wmch  time 
there  is  an  incessant  demand  for  the  pinkish-orange  flesh  of  the 
5-10  lb.  salmon.  At  times  the  street  is  piled  high  with  mounds 
of  the  briny,  illnsmelling  carcases,  and  bundles  of  sakanaya 
(fishmongers)  may  be  seen  counting  them  in  sing-song  tones  or 
transferring  them  by  means  of  hand-hooks  from  the  piles  to 
waiting  carts.  Along  toward  the  New  Year  the  demand  in- 
creases; it  reaches  its  acme  Dec.  31,  at  which  time  many 
thousands  of  the  fish  change  hands.  Salmon  forms  the  favorite 
New  Year's  gift  and  is  sent  as  a  Seibo  no  ahUgiy  or  congratula- 
tory present  in  commemoration  of  the  felicitous  ending  of  the 
old  year.  The  custom  is  so  strong  that  great  personal  sacrifices 
are  made  in  order  to  observe  it. 

Just  across  the  canal  from  this  fish  exchange  is  another  big 
fish-market  where  in  the  early  morning  piscine  types  almost 
as  varied  and  as  beautiful  as  those  at  the  marvelous  Naples 
Aquarium  may  be  seen.  The  neighborhood  reeks  of  fish,  and 
many  canal-boats  load  with  them  here  and  convey  them  to 
other  quarters  of  the  city.  Beyond  Nihonbashi  the  thorou^- 
fare  bends  to  the  left  and  runs  between  flanking  lines  of  new 
business  houses,  more  in  keeping  with  the  solid  wealth  of  the 
environs.  Perhaps  the  most  modem  of  these  structures  is  the 
big  MiTSUKosHi  Department  Store,  completed  in  1914,  and 
representative  of  what  new  T6ky6  is  to  be.  The  huge  ofl5ce- 
building  at  the  rear,  in  Suruga-cho,  houses  the  TokyS  head- 
quarters of  the  rich  and  powerful  Mitsui  Busaan  Kaishaf  with 
its  manifold  interests  —  ships,  coal-mines,  docks,  realty,  etc. 
Inmiediately  behind  the  Mitsukoshi  is  the  Tokyo  branch  of 
the  Yokohama  Specie  Bank,  and,  facing  it,  the  stately  Nippon 
Ginko,  or  Bank  of  Japan,  where  the  Imperial  treasure  is 
stored,  and  which  bears  practically  the  same  relation  to  Japan 
that  the  Bank  of  England  does  to  Great  Britain.  The  wealthy 
owners  of  the  region  contiguous  to  the  bank  propose  to  make 
here  a  model  quarter  along  Occidental  lines,  and  thus  show  the 
rest  of  Tokyo  what  it  ou^t  to  do. 

The  Bank  of  Japan,  a  limited  liability  institution  in  which  the  Imperial 
Gov't  is  heavily  interested,  was  established  by  an  Imperial  Ordinance  June 
27,  1882,  with  an  original  capital  of  ten  miUion  yen;  m  1887  this  was  raised 
to  20,  in  1895  to  30,  and  recently  to  60  miUions.  It  receives  and  disburses 
State  funds,  issues  its  own  notes  and  affects  the  finances  of  the  Empire  when 
it  adjusts  its  discount  rate.  Gold  and  sUver  bullion  to  the  value  of  300  miUion 
yen  are  sometimes  stored  in  its  strong,  guarded  vaults.  The  semi-classical, 
gray  granite  structure,  of  the  Composite  order,  which  houses  it,  is  after  the 
plans  of  Prof.  Tatauno ;  the  entrance  forms  three  sides  of  a  handsome  rec- 
tangular court  adorned  with  symmetrical  Tuscan  colimins.  The  intericMr 
treatment  of  the  severely  plain,  dignified,  and  attractive  structure  is  diaap- 
pointing. 

Just  beyond  Nihoribashiy  at  the  right,  is  the  small  ABdiiacto^ 
Afijifirchd,  where  Will  Adams  liv&d.   The  re^on  TOxmdeXyaoXt 


t 


20.0M     I 


TOKYO 

a  anoientlv  one  of  Tokyo's  worat  slums,  the  abode  of  b 
gafB,  raK-picKeTB,  street-'inusiuiaRa,  and  thieves.  To-day  tSe 
land  radis  with  the  most  valuable  in  the  capital.  —  Jukken- 
dana,Kaji<ho,  TorishingohunchS,  and  Sudordii  are  the  names 
^  which  the  thoroughfare  ia  known  between  NikoTibashi  and 
^dheibaski  {' guard-bridge '),  at  the  right  of  which  i 
jraportaat  Manseibmhi  (turnip-bridge  ')  —  about  2  M. 
Shitnbashi.  Uyeno  Park  is  about  1  M.  distant.  At  the 
the  new  SA5Ae€6oKW  terminus  of  the  Central  Rly.,  which  __ 
tu  this  point  through  Kanda  and  other  wards.  The  new  — 
tian,  in  the  Renaisaance  style,  contains  2  million  bricks,  20,OM 
;amte  blocks,  180  tons  of  steel  and  considerable  marble  and 
ronze,  and  was  completed  (after  designs  by  Pro/.  Tataiaui)  b 
1912  at  a  cost  of  ¥300,000.  The  Bronze  Monument  focingit 
is  one  of  the  finest  in  TokyS  and  was  unveiled  in  May,  1910; 
the  bronse  statues  are  alter  the  design  of  Prof.  TakamiffA 
Kiiwn,  of  the  Academy  of  Fine  Arts.  The  life-uise  figuresur- 
mounting  the  shaft  is  that  of  the  brave  Commander  Hiroit 
who  nobly  sacrificed  his  life  in  a  vain  effori^  to  rescue  a  nan- 
oommiaioaed  officer  during  the  memorable  marine  night  attack 
on  Port  Arthur  during  the  Russian  War.  The  dauntless  figui«, 
in  a  pose  of  stress,  courage,  and  determiaation,  stands  besides 
signaling-Ievor,  and  holds  a  binocular  telescope  in  his  left  luuid. 
Thrown  round  the  shaft  ia  a  bronze  chain  and  anchor,  and 
leaning  against  it,  in  a  crouching  position,  with  a  long-handled 
choppmg-axe  grasped  in  his  right  hand,  is  the  figure  of  the 
heroic  but  unfortunate  officer.  Both  mutely  express  tbeuD- 
questioned  coura^a  oE  the  race,  and  both  happened  to  bB 
unusually  conspicuous  Figures  in  a  titanic  struggle  in  whidi 
many  of  the  participants  were  heroes  of  a  high  order. — A  shwt 
walk  up  at  the  left  of  the  station,  through  a  region  of  inmi  and 
curio-shopa,  brings  one  to  Surugadai  and  the  RtiseiAN  Caths- 
DBAL,  perhaps  the  oldest  of  the  metropolitan  churches. 

Tbo  RuBsiui  Ortbodoi  Chnnh,  or  Oreek  Cnthndral,  known   locoll;  m 

t  Suruaodtu  Beightfl,  m  Kanda-ku,  and  ia  a  landmark  in  tbi)  aeicbborliood. 
Ithllu9iiiiiiincbii,nioter  withsByiantiuo  touch  that  adds  m&tcriolly  to  in 
icturesQueuesa.    It  was  fouodod  m  IS7I  by  a  icalouB,  ami  in  several  mn 

I  1MM»,  when  24  yn.  old.  and.  find  with  reli^ioufl  ardor,  beBao  forthwith  io 
liie  UTBBOcferiergjitotbBiigKrandiieDiffDtof  the  Greek  Chureh  io  llw 

Lthedml.  beguo  in  ISB4  and  nompliited  in  1S91  at  a  ooU  of  178:008 
L  damn  115  (I.  hi(h,  a  belL-lower  12S  ft.,  and  an  inlenor  (ah^ 

Huu  viuioiiH  <q1  paintinEB  iMpiating  the  flv 

.'Mother  of  God'),  aad  BcvfLea  in  the  Uvee  □ 

is  quite  nlabonls  for  bo  modest  a  etruotun, 

aJD  of  tiw  majoetjo  reredofl  of  CAurW(fuera. 

I  and  poTtToittf  in  oil  on  the  right  wing,  and  an  eqni 
^r additional  on«a  on  Ihe  inHwuep  conduc^Xn^  \a  'iafb\frant 
V  bj-Huaaian  pnintera.    The  cutiouB  iron  aVtW  \ri\.,  u 
Ing  Cbiiat,  ia  worth  looMng  at.     Tta  vwiroonja  m. 


ting  martyrs  in  the  cause  of  Christ  ^nd  humanity)  which  adorn  the 
<  of  the  dome  —  the  Descent  of  the  Holy  Sfurit,  the  ResurreoticMi, 
s  Supper,  and  the  Ascension  —  are  by  Uhanoff^  and  were  presentea 
UToh  by  a  pious  woman  of  St.  Petersburg.  In  obedience  to  the  needs 
herents  of  the  church,  the  ritual  is  in  Japanese,  and  the  natives 
allusive  signs  of  the  faith  as  if  born  to  them.  The  record  left  by 
yp  Nicolai  when  he  died  (Feb.  16,  1912,  aged  76)  is  perhaps  unique 
oals  of  modem  missionary  work.  During  his  long  life  in  Japan  he 
174  missions  and  churches  coimting  a  membership  of  30,000. 
Is  of  mourners  followed  his  cofiGm  to  the  grave  (which  was  decorated 
kths  sent  by  the  Emperor  and  the  Empress),  and  the  procession  was 
1  a  mile  long.  The  chief  actor  in  the  impressive  Jubilee  service  held 
bhedral  some  months  prior  to  this  event,  was  an  ex-aamurai  who 
ITS  ago  tried  to  assassinate  the  young  priest,  in  the  belief  that  his 
ould  harm  his  countrymen.  The  sainUy  man  argued  with  him  and 
I  him  from  a  would-be  murderer  to  a  lifelong  friend. 

passing  Manseibashiy  the  thoroughfare  loses  much  of 
rity  and  ephemeral  charm,  along  with  its  name.  Hence 
lo  Park  it  is  known  as  Gokencho  and  is  flanked  by  non- 
;  houses  which  call  for  no  particular  mention  beyond  the 
it  they  show  an  indifference  to  antiquity  or  beautv. 
of  the  shops  cater  to  foreigners,  as  is  shown  by  the  odd 
le  critical  eye  picks  out:  Umbrella  &  Co.;  Milk  Snop; 
Shot;  Advertising  Agent  &  Undertaker;  Traunks  & 
nd  the  like.  Westernized  symbols  in  crippled  Romaji 
lerous.  There  is  little  to  relieve  the  studied  uniformity 
Luddle  of  little  gray,  weather-stained  houses  until  one 
le  fine  Uyeno  Park;  here  the  street  becomes  livelier,  and 
and  toy-shops  filled  with  fanciful  and  curious  things 
re  expected  to  appeal  to  travelers  alighting  in  the  Uyeno 
,  and  to  sight-seers  visiting  the  park,  alternate  with 
ious  restaurants  and  show  places.  The  largest  of  the 
is  the  Teikoku-hakuhinr-kwan.  Foreign  food  at  reason- 
ces  can  be  had  in  the  Seiyoken  Hold,  just  within  the 
trance,  at  the  left. 

The  Imperial  Palace  and  Neighborhood. 

*Imperial  Palace  (gosho),  or  Castle  (O-shiro);  the 

il  Residence  and  the  chief  palace  of  the  Tokugawa  '■ 

Ue  until  the  Restoration  of  the  present  Imperial  Dyn- 

ands  near  the  N.W.  center  of  the  capital,  in  Kojimachi 

PI.  E-F,  5)  on  an  elevated  site  which  was  once  the 

>hical  center  of  the  capital,  and  from  which  all  distances 

mputed.  As  the  political  and  intellectual  center  of  the 

,  the  Japanese  regard  it  with  unusual  reverence;  the 

s  rigorously  excluded,  and  only  those  who  are  granted 

Derial  favor  are  admitted  within  its  sacred  precincts. 

ilace  and  its  appurtenances  are  under  the  jurisdiction  of  the  Im- 

)U8ehold  Department,  and  travelers  with  requests  to  make  of  the 

ist  first  apply  to  their  minister  or  ambassador,   who  in  turn  wiU 

refer  them  to  the  Foreign  Office.   If  one's   credentials  are  strong 

)ne  is  provided  with  a  letter  to  the  proper  official  in  the  dep't,  tt&d  «k 

imped,  ideographic  wood  ticket  (monkan)  v/\Ach.  must  be  ^<ywiilo'  \ 

I  (f»Amii.iMT\r^  in  Tf^fuHftti  unf.hmif.  if.     ami  ^ina   oi<a  iiocklAaaN  n^  ^Va  \vrM\M 


160    Route  10.  TOKYO  Imperial  Paiaa. 

studded  SabuAilamon  (gBte)  nbout  )  M.  N.  of  the  Mun  Gate  at  Uk  Hiii- 
bathi.  The  tickcft  miut  be  retaioed  and  Hhown  aa  leaving;  thco  nttunjea  Id 
whomaoevet  hot  suppliud  it.  Tike  Office  of  General  ARairs  (^amuiai) ,  wfun 

near  llie  lug  fouDtunwith  its  vide' basin.  £D«lieh  spoken. 

The  original  castle,  which  woa  long  known  aa  the  Yedo 
Cftstle  {Edo-jS)  waa  erected  late  in  the  15th  cent,  by  Ota 
Dohaan  from  whose  descendants  it  was  later  wrested  1^  tbe 
Hojo,  afterwards  to  pass  into  the  hands  of  Tokugawa  lestuu. 
It  comprised  a  main,  middle,  and  outer  castle,  aurrounded  bj 
milee  of  moats  and  atone  walls,  which  in  turn  were  pierced  bf 
25  gates  supplemented  by  drawbridges.  The  numerous  iratc))> 
towers  and  fortifications  are  naively  referred  to  by  MstoriMi 
as  not  80  much  defenses  Against  possible  enemies  as  lines  i;f 
demarcation  between  the  merchants  and  the  samurai.  Teku- 
gawa  leyasti  razed  portions  of  the  ancient  structures  and  bdit 
for  himself  (between  1506  and  1614)  a  redoubtable  strong 
which  at  a  later  period  came  to  be  known  as  the  West  {Sstin; 
he  constiueted  a.  triple  line  of  moats,  the  outennost'9  M.  in 
length,  and  bauked  tfaem  by  scarps  of  colossal  granite  hlwiB 
each  brought  (by  sea)  from  Hyogo  375  M.  away.  The  gato, 
the  towers,  and  all  the  fortifications  were  of  such  masaiye 
proportions  as  to  '  constitute  one  of  the  most  stupendoti! 
WOTka  ever  undertaken,  not  excepting  even  the  pyramids  ol 
Egypt.  Above  the  inunense  masses  of  masonry  rose  lofty 
banks  of  earth,  their  slopes  turfed  with  fine  Korean  grass,  aM 
their  summits  planted  with  pine  trees,  trained,  year  after  jeu, 
to  stretch  evergreen  arma  toward  the  spacious  moats.  ThM 
moats  varied  in  width  from  22  to  170  yards,  and  through  tlwm 
flowed  broad  sheets  of  water,  reaching  the  city  by  aquednds 
cunningly  planned  from  a  river  20  M.  distant;  as  evidence  of 
Japanese  engineering  skill  unassisted  by  foreipi  science,  tbM 
conduits  ore  scarcely  less  remarkable  than  the  castle  itself.  In 
this  combination  we  have  on  example  of  the  homo^  to  &' 
beautiful  that  holds  ever;  Japanese  a  worshiper  at^atun^ 
shrine  even  when  he  seeois  to  rely  most  implicitly  on  bis  awt 
resources  of  brain  and  muscle.  Flacid  lakes  lapping  the  feetd 
stupendous  battlements;  noble  pines  bending  over  their  snn 
graceful  reflections  in  still  watflrs;  long  stretches  of  velvet? 
sward  making  a  perpetual  presence  of  rustic  freshness  amonk 
the  dust  and  moil  of  city  life;  flocks  of  soft-pluma)i;fHl  wild-fowl 
placidly  sailing  in  the  moats  or  sunning  themselves  on  tb^ 
banks,  careless  of  the  tuioult  and  din  of  the  streets  overhesdl 
sheets  of  lotus-bloom  glowing  in  the  shadow  of  grim  cauDte^ 
scarps  —  where  but  in  Japan  could  be  found  so  (leliberale  and 
BO  successftd  an  effort  to  convert  the  frowns  of  a  fortress  isto 
the  smiles  of  a  garden?  This  casUe  of  the  Tohtgmva  RtgeHU 
was  a  portion  of  the  alptabct  by  wttclv  iapaiwae  t^uouAn 
eould  (and  can)  be  read.  E^ddeabcT\ea\\i8.'pa^w^^™»«'^ 
ftiltine  sracaful  Mid  j<efia&d,  ihsr^  is  a  aUon%  :j«B.t\ai>^J^w 


Imperial  Palace.  TOKYO  lO:  Eavle.    151 

piageant  oi  war  and  for  the  dash  of  deadly  onset,  and  just  as 
tbe  shogun  sought  to  display  before  the  ^es  of  tne  citizens  of 
bis  capital  a  charming  picture  of  gentle  peace,  though  its 
setting  was  a  framework  of  vast  military  preparation,  so  the 
Japanese  of  every  era  has  loved  to  turn  from  the  f encingnschool 
to  the  armor,  from  the  field  of  battle  to  the  society  of  the 
rockery  and  the  cascade,  delighting  in  the  perils  and  struggles 
of  the  one  as  much  as  he  admires  the  grace  and  repose  ofthe 
other.  There  is  not  to  be  found  elsewhere  a  more  striking 
monimient  of  military  power,  nor  can  any  one  considering 
such  a  work  refuse  to  credit  the  Japanese  with  capacity  for 
large  conceptions  and  competence  to  carry  them  into  practice.' 
(Brinldey) 

Within  the  spacious  walls,  which  anciently  covered  a  much 
wider  area  than  at  present,  and  round  which  the  city  gradually 
grew,  were  the  dwellings  of  the  more  powerful  daimyds  and 
their  numerous  retainers,  with  wide  open  spaces  upon  which 
many  of  the  houses  of  present-day  T6ky6  stand.  The  Shdgun 
Hidetada  added  to  the  vast  work  much  of  which  was  destroyed 
by  the  great  fire  of  1873.  For  many  years  thereafter,  and  while 
the  present  Palace  was  building,  the  Emperor  dwelt  in  a  pro- 
visional palace  which  stood  where  the  present  palace  of  the 
Crown  Prince  stands.  There  are  a  number  of  wells  in  the 
enceinte,  and  the  Palace  with  its  gardens  form  a  self-contained 
whole.  The  Fukiage  Landscape  Garden,  in  the  formal 
Japanese  style,  is  the  finest  in  Japan,  with  quaint  lakelets, 
charming  bridges  and  paths,  lotus-pools,  wandering  peacocks 
and  cranes,  etc.  From  the  highest  point,  Momijiyama,  or 
Maple  Hill,  one  looks  across  a  beautiful  stretch  studded  with 
splendid  giant  forest  trees  and  others  wonderfully  dwarfed; 
over  plots  where  are  assembled  hundreds  of  specimens  of 
indigenous  fiora  as  well  as  others  from  the  neighboring  conti- 
nent, and  to  bowers  to  which  years  of  care  of  the  best  arboral- 
ists  in  Japan  have  been  devoted.  —  Near  the  E.  moat  stands 
the  Central  Meteorological  Observatory,  whence  daily 
weather  reports  are  telegraphed  to  all  parts  of  the  Empire. 

The  chief  Divisions  op  the  Palace  (completed  in  1889  at  a 
cost  of  4  million  yen)  are  known  as  Hommaru  (Main  Castle,  or 
Inner  Citadel)  and  Nishi  no  Maru  (West  Castle).  One  story 
in  height,  constructed  (in  the  pure  Nipponese  style)  originally 
of  light  buff-colored  wood  now  considerably  weather-beaten, 
with  many  graceful  gables  and  eaves  decorated  richly  in  bril- 
liant greens  and  blues,  with  polychromatic  symbols  and  con- 
ventionalized flowers,  they  suggest  palatial  residences  rather 
than  fortresses.  The  general  effect  produced  by  the  many 
angles  and  the  copper-bronze  roof  glowing  with  a  richpatina  is 
that  of  a  fine  temple  converted  into  a  dwelling.  Tiie  regal 
Interior  of  the  main  structure  is  planned  on  Japanese  ^sieJB,)aw^ 
modified  to  meet  the  requirements  of  cosmopolitan  Court  \\le. 


Route  10. 


TOKYO 


Imperial  I 


^'  Steam  heat  has  replaced  the  illiisivc  hibachi.  The  e 
joiaery,  the  aliding  screens  faced  with  highly  polished  & 
the  beautiful  native  brocades,  and  the  European  fur 
sUKgeatapleaatDgbletidof  the  Orient  and  Oacident.  The  A., 
are  tit  selected  hard  woods  from  the  Imperial  forests.  In  ql 
tain  of  the  apartments,  orange  and  cedar  are  employed^ 
conjunction  with  splendid  embossed  leather~like  paper  ci  — 
ing  flowing  patteriu  of  ivory  and  gold.  The  heavily  b 
cwlintta  are  coflered  in  places,  each  sunken  panel  er 
with  decorations  similar  to  those  in  the  Kydto  Palace. 
of  the  finest  modem  work  in  gold  lacquer  is  here  seen  i_  . 
various  panels  showing  animals,  birds,  flowers,  landscapes,  K 
the  like.  The  Audience  Room  or  Main  Hull  {Sei-den),  ofMj 
referred  to  as  the  Howo^ia-fna  because  of  the  phcenixe  "' 
form  a  pext  of  the  gorgeous  decoration,  is  where  the  E  , 
receives  his  ministers  and  the  foreign  ainbaaaadora,  and  no  tt 
is  admitted  ]>eyond  unless  honored  with  a  special  audie^^ 
So  exclusive  are  some  of  the  apartments  that  none  I 
nearest  relatives  of  the  sovereign  or  the  Empress  a. 
accorded  the  privilege  of  entering  them.  The  ImperiaJ  &„ 
luary,  or  Kaskiko-dokoro  (familiarly  called  Ckiyoda^S,  t 
Tokyo-jQ),  where  the  Emperor  worships  the  shades  of  V 
ancestors,  occupies  a  large  hall  constructed  of  cream-irt^ 
knotlees  timbers,  poliHheaas  smooth  as  mirrors  and  deTOJdJI 
decoration.  The  chastely  beantiful  ShintH  Shrine,  also  otA' 
lar  wood  with  delicately  chased  eilvcr  fitments,  indosaifl 
model  of  the  sacred  mirror  and  the  usual  Skiriio  funstm^ 
flanking  it  are  two  smaller  shrines;  one  dedicated  to  all  ■ 
Imperial  ancestors  since  Jimmu  Tennd:  the  other  to  the  cbi 
J  deities  of  the  Shinto  pantheon.  The  floor  is  covered  wi&  Gl 
I    straw  mats  bordered  with  wliite  damask;  the  bamboo  ci 

I    carry  the  Imperial  crest,  — The  private  reception  n. .. 

I     Empress  is  hung  in  crimson  silk.  —  The  Imperial  dress  \ttp[ 
I     vate  life  ia  white  silk.  The  old  Ey5to  dialect  if  ' 
I     inner  life  of  the  Court. 

I         Of  the  several  Gates  (most  of  which  date  from  the  bigfinjfl 
J     1657)  the  best  known  to  the  caaual  traveler  is  the  S  '    '~ 
;l      Main  Gate,  at  theH.E.  comerof  theinclosure;amaB8_.  -,    .  _ 
studded  structure  (opened  only  on  special  occasions),  witkfl 

C9tem,  a  penthouse,  and  a  guard.    The  twin  bridg^  W^* 
ihi),  when  seen  from  a  certain  angle,  look  like  a  single  bi'  "" 
with   two   passageways.     Visitors   usually  enter  the  I^ 
grounds  through  the  Sakashitamon,  further  along  tjie  d 
toward  the  N.   The  BofioaaAiiuwi,  which  prior  ti    "      ' 
Russia  War  spanned  the  outer  moat  about  J  M. 
the  Seiman,  was  razed  because  it  was  too  small  lA  admit  d 
pasBage  of  a  throng  at  one  t.\Dti«',  its  iomdntxtixi  >h 
oyafat&l  crush  which  occurted  dvitiVMtaiemwna'i 
cfeae  of  the  war  latocrad  tjo.   CcMuadtjolia  "^ '^'^ft. 


'eimon  was  widened,  as  was  also  the  broad  OaisendOro 
1  of  Triumph)  which  flanks  the  Palace  moat  on  the  E.  ami 
lemorates  the  great  struggle  between  the  Japanese  and 
Muscovites.  The  region  hereabout  is  called  Marunoucki 
ie  the  castle  walls  *);  upward  of  one  hundred  thousand 
OS  of  all  ages  and  sects  knelt  here  in  endless  rows  on  the 
of  July  29,  1912,  praying  for  the  late  Emperor  who  lay 
;  within  the  Palace.  The  Sakuradamon  ('cherry-village 
)  at  the  S.  with  its  big  penthouse  and  massive  iron  fit- 
3,  is  associated  in  the  native  mind  with  the  assassination 
p.  p.  22)  of  li  Kamon  no  Kamiy  the  last  of  the  Tokugawa 
lers.  Both  the  gates  (the  inner  and  outer  one)  are  known 
e  same  name.  The  corresponding  gate  at  the  N.E.  corner 
5  inclosure  is  called  Wadakuramon, 
B  Moats  (fwri)  which  defend  the  inclosure  aro  much  less 
sive  than  in  former  times,  and  almost  every  year  sees  a 
>n  of  them  capitulate  to  commercial  advancement;  the 
moat  at  the  rear  of  the  Palace  grounds  is  now  threaded 
I  electric  tramway,  and  other  sections  are  being  filled  in. 
fresh  water,  which  is  brou^t  from  the  Tonegawa,  is  of 
ng  levels  (there  is  a  slight  current),  and  ranges  in  depth 

4  to  10  ft.,  and  in  width  from  50  to  200  ft.   Sections  of 

urface  are  thickly  covered  with  magnificent  lotus-blos- 

in  late  summer,  when  they  present  an  inspiring  sight. 

time  out  of  mind  the  deeper,  quieter  reaches  of  the  vast 

bes  have  been  the  breeding-grounds  for  wild  geese,  ducks, 
>ther  aquatic  birds,  and  before  the  city  acquired  steam 
3kys  and  smoking  factories  (which  frightened  many  of  the 
•-fowl  away)  there  came  here  as  regularly  as  the  seasons 

5  of  storks,  herons,  and  swans,  to  impart  to  thie  moats  a 
of  unusual  grace  and  beauty.  The  traveler  who  chances 

Dss  Marunouchi  on  almost  any  crisp  morning  in  winter 
(vitness  a  sight  characteristic  of  the  city  life  of  the  gentle, 
iy-loving  Nipponese.  From  one  side  or  the  other  of  the 
e  there  comes  a  vast  quacking  or  a  musical  honking  fol- 
l  by  the  whirring  and  beating  of  heavy  wings,  and  soon 
after  flock  of  iridescent  wild  ducks  or  fat  geese  (gan) 
;  into  view  and  fly  to  and  fro  across  the  park  or  drift 
f  back  to  some  favorite  feeding-ground  on  the  moat, 
ng  the  startled  stranger  with  the  unexpected  charm  of 
«ne. 

3k  from  the  clear  green  waters  of  the  gigantic  inner  trench 
nposing  slopes  from  20  to  50  ft.  high,  with  a  glacis  from 
200  ft.  covered  with  lawn-like  grassy  turf  and  parapets  of 
3tic  evergreen  pines  that  take  the  most  curious  horizontal 
ions  and  the  most  capriciously  twisted  shapes,  as  they 
and  sway  and  give  fancy  and  artistic  charm  to  the  moats 
vails.  'On  bright  sunny  days  the  silhouettes  oi  ftiea 
7US  branches  are  mirrored  in  the  still  waters,  and  on  ^^sixii 


^Erwot 


TOKYO        Crown  I 


lolight  nigbts,  when  the  stars  and  the  laatems-a 
nets  tremble  in  the  dark  and  silent  depUis,  they  atf 
great  muscular  tana  protectingly  above  them.'  Not  ■ 
these  huge  trees  were  hving  witnesses  of  the  last  greater 
of  the  shilguoal  days,  aod  they  add  to  the  myBt«ric>ua  a 
iSity  which  broods  above  this  splendid  old  relic  of  a  v 
-past. 

The  Cyclopean  Walls  themselves,  of  remarkable  a 
'  Bsidea  ranking  among  the  finest  things  in  TokyS,  are  ai 
,.ie  best  examples  of  this  type  of  aruhi lecture  in  the  Kn. 
Formed  of  colossal  blocks  of  undressed  stone  upward  of  SB 
tuck,  6  ft.wide,  and  16  ft.  long;  fashioned  into  rampartB  b 
"  to  SO  ft.  high,  broken  here  and  there  by  solid  epura  yAi 
^,^  B  them  a  new  direotion,  but  which  always  present  a  u 
and  formidable  front  to  the  outsider,  they  are  wholly  t&A 
able,  with  the  spreading  moats  at  their  feet  and  the  pme  tK 
above.    Although  laid  without  mortar,  the  huge  polyjtw 
blocks  fit  against  one  another  with  the  nice  precision  of  aa 
^ated  tiles,  their  ^at  jagged  points  running  far  back  into  dL 
^arth  and  becommg  aunost  an  integral  part  of  it.   Andcsfl 
Brhen  Tsukiji  and  K3/6ba»hi-kit  were  half-«ubmerged  awi    ' 
sea  washed  the  outer  walls  of  the  Rnccinto,  the  land  hj 
a  reclaimed  by  leveling  KaJida  Hill  and  by  filling  in. 
^r  wall  (ni  no  maru)  is  finer  than  the  outer  (son  no  n.-,, 
phole  sections  of  which  have  been  demolished  to  make  K| 
'   new  streets.    Whitewashed  stone    pavilions   ndae  H 
rved  roofs  at  angles  of  the  escarpment  and  impart  the  gI 
a  castle.   The  well-advised  traveler  will  walk  quite  aroi 
the  inclosure,  for  only  in  this  way  may  hs  get  a  correct  id«i| 
its  size  and  the  beauty  of  its  defenses. 

Facing  tiie  E.  front  of  the  Palace  grounds  is  ; 
park  whiuh  once  formed  the  Palace  esplanade;  near  u 
of  the  S.  section  stands  a  noteworthy  equestrian  mi 
on  a  handsome  granite  base,  erected  (in  1808)  by  5.. 

Kiehitaemon  {a  Japanese  copper  magnate)  to  the  ii 

memory  of  Genenu  Kuaunoki  Maaaskige,  a  medimviil  i 
whom  the  Japanese  regard  aa  the  essejice  of  loy^tT  to  d 
throne  and  unuelfish  devotion  to  the  fatherland,  line  q  '' 
ranguiar  pedestal  {which  rises  from  a  granite  plinth  enoL- 
by  stone  pillars]  is  enriched  with  a  chaste  and  beautiful  In 
pattern  string  course.  The  heroic  figure  is  clad  in  ondL 
'  and  is  the  personification  of  stress  and  couragej  8 
B  ideographic  slab  refers  to  the  erection  of  the  b  ^ 
_  .  —  Surrounding  the  Palace  inclosure  are  several  p 
.^  chief  gov't  buildmgs,  many  of  the  foreign  embasaiisri 
9gations,  several  schools,  churches,  shrines,  and  otb^  p' 
bereinaSieT  described. 
Thf)  Crown  Prince's  PAiA-CBslB-nAa  a,  Awll^.5^e^aslWl^Ii 
_  W.of  thf  Imperial  P^liice,  in  AkaaafeB.'^^  w^.-wNisocfc^^wJ 


TOEYO  10.  BouU.    155 

mon  name  oi  Akaeaka  Palace.  The  structure,  from  which 
strangers  are  debarred,  is  built  of  fine  Italian  marble  and 
native  gray  granite,  after  the  general  style  of  the  palace  at 
Versailles,  and  was  designed  by  Mr,  Katayama,  a  Japanese 
architect  who  studied  at  the  Parisian  Mcole  des  Beaux  Arts, 
The  interior  decorations  and  fitments  are  French.  The  build- 
ing (completed  in  1913)  stands  far  back  from  the  street,  in  a 
wiae  inclosure  surrounded  on  3  sides  by  high  stone  walls  and 
defended  in  front  by  an  elaborate  iron  grul.  The  most  con- 
spicuous features  are  the  groups  —  at  each  side  of  the  main 
entrance  —  of  gilded  phcenixes. 

Kudan  Hill,  with  its  famous  shrine  and  museum,  stands  at 
the  N.W.  comer  of  the  Palace  grounds,  in  K5jimachi-ku,  and 
is  one  of  the  most  interesting  as  well  as  elevated  spots  in  the 
city.   Approaching  it  along  the  wide,  populous,  and  upward- 
sloping  Kudan-zaJca  (PI.  F,  4)  —  the  Broadway  of  Kanda 
Ward  —  one  reaches  the  crest  of  the  hill  at  the  Tayasumon 
(gate)  of  the  Palace,  where  the  barracks  [the  noon  gim  is  fir^ 
here]  of  the  Imperial  bodyguard  is  located.    Flanking  the 
entrance  (left)  is  a  tall  bronze  statue  on  a  beautiful  granite 
base,  erected  to  the  memoiy  of  Viscount  Shinagawaf  a  states- 
man, patriot,  one  of  the  builders  of  New  Japan,  and  a  member 
(ennobled  after  the  Restoration)  of  a  samurai  family  of  the 
Yamaguchi  Clan.  The  smaller  monument  near  by  commemo- 
rates the  late  General  Kawakami,  chief  of  the  Staff  Office 
during  the  Japan-Russia  War.  The  tall,  bayonet-shaped  shaft 
on  a  rusted  iron  base  stands  to  the  memory  of  the  soldiers  of 
the  Imperial  bodyguard  who  died  (while  fighting  on  the  loyal- 
sts'  side)  during  the  Satsuma  Rebellion.  The  bizarre  builoing 
list  across  the  roadwav,  with  a  stone  lighthouse  in  the  yard,  is 
Military  Club;  the  beacon  was  long  a  guiding  light  for  the 
inks  which  sailed  up  Yedo  Bay.  The  views  over  the  city  from 
lie  point  are  fine. 

The  Yasukuni-jinja  ('shrine  which  safeguards  the  tran- 

lillity  of  the  Empire'),  known  also  as  Shokonsha  (Chinese: 

9,  invite;  kon,  spirit;  s^,  temple),  or 'Spirit-Invoking  Shrine,' 

Shinto  sanctuary  dedicated   to  all  the  soldiers  who  have 

ten  in  the  wars  since  the  Restoration,  stands  far  back  on  the 

!,  about  i  M.  from  the  pebble-strewn  campus  at  the  top  of 

tdan-zaka.  Two  handsomely  sculptured  stone  lanterns  fiank 

entrance.  The  deeply  cut  characters  on  the  tall  square  shaft 

he  right  give  the  name  and  rank  of  the  shrine,  and  advise  that 

'■  imder  Imperial  protection.  The  two  huge  stone  Dogs  of 

vt  the  right  and  left,  on  massive  stone  bases,  are  war-prizes 

ight  hither  from  China  at  the  close  of  the  war  in  1895.  The 

of  stone  lanterns  which  flank  the  campus  on  either  side 

presented  to  the  shrine  (in  1878)  by  different  daimyds, 

tall  bronze  monument  (erected  in  1882)  on  a  cyVrndneeX 

midway  of  the  eaplanade,  surrounded  by  an  Vroii  teiiAse 


TOKYO 


■ 

^m   166    BmU  10. 

^^m   made  to  represent  arrows,  and  senlaneled  by  a  i.. 

^^B    mounted  (»nnoa,  etaods  bo  the  memoi?  o(  Omi. 

^^K    (whose  statue  crowna  the  pedestal),  a  heroic  and  promineDt 

^^M    figure  of  the  Restoration.  He  it  was  who  instructed  the  aamtt- 

^^P    rot  of  ChOahu  in  the  miUtary  arts,  and  during  the  war  whicli 

^^M     preceded  the  Imperial  ReatoTstion,  he  fought  ogaiiiBt  the  lAi- 

^H     gunai  Yedo  and  Wakamateu^later  pacifyina  the  N.E.  regioii 

^H     of  HondS  la.   Wlien  he  had  been  appointed  Vice-MiniaWr  of 

^V     War  (Hyobu-tayQ),  and  was  diligently  reorganising  the  army, 

^^     hewaaasBHsBinated  (Nov,8, 1869)  along  with  five  of  hiaofficera. 

The  striking  figure  (better  than  certain  other  bronEe  atatufs 

in  TokyS)  is  intereating  in  that  it  was  the  first  bronite  statue  to 

be  erected  to  a  Japanese  in  the  Empire. 

During  the  lively  festivals  of  May  4-8  and  Nov.  5-7,  a  hwl 
of  jtigglera,  wrestlers,  and  others  erect  peep-shows,  shops,  aid 
other  catch-penny  devices  here,  and  by  means  of  thimbic- 
rig^ng  and  similar  sly  practices  succeed  in  wheedling  conade^ 
able  money  from  the  country  bumpkins  who  then  freouent  the 
place.  An  immense  and  noiay  crowd  drifts  up  and  down  the 
longcampusat  theee  times,  and  occasiooajly  apace  is  cleafed  (at 
wire-rope  walking,  a  horse-race,  or  historic  dances.  The  sot 
diers  who  come  in  throngs  give  thanks  at  the  shriae  for  soioe 
military  victory,  or  do  honor  to  the  memory  of  comrades  kilkd 
in  the  Russian  War.  Across  the  street  from  the  8.W.  end  of  the 
incloeure  is  the  Fujimilcen  Restaurant,  where  a  limited  raop 
of  food  cooked  in  foreign  style  can  be  had  at  moderate  print. 
A  colossal  bronze  torii  erected  in  1887,  and  in  itself  so  fines* 
to  impel  one  to  acte  of  worahip,  marks  the  entrance  to  Uu 
temple  yard ;  at  the  right  and  left  are  some  unusually  handsome 
I  bronze  lanterns  ornamented  (along  the  base)  with  fabulou! 
I  leirin  with  gold  eyes,  and  (at  the  top)  with  writing  dragoiu. 
The  Emordo  just  witliin  the  entrance,  at  the  left,  is  a  tawdij 
ir  with  some  execrable  pictures  of  horses  stuck  to  the  wolu 
and  ceiling;  the  guns  and  sabers  were  given  by  the  soldiera  of 
the  arsenal.  During  festival  nighta  the  trees  are  hung  with 
colored  light  bulbs  and  the  effect  is  pretty.  At  this  sessca 
cages  along  the  inner  fence  are  packed  high  with  offerings  to 
the  shrine  —  huge  mirror-ahaped  rice-cakes  called  itofjamt- 
mochi;  big-bellied  nake  tubs;  hosts  of  potted  plants;  tins  m  l»9- 
ouits  ana  what-not,  each  bearing  the  giver's  name^asd 
usually  his  place  of  busineas.  The  stone  lanterns  in  the  yald 
were  erected  (in  1878)  by  the  Japanese  nobility,  to  replsM 
I  Bome  ugly  glass  ones  of  an  earlier  period.  The  white  magnolia* 
I  are  beautiful  in  season. 

The  simple  but  imposing  Honden,  or  main  shrine,  built  in 

1869,  in  the  pure  SAinio  style,  is  oflittle  interest  to  the  traveler. 

I  The  two  blue-and-white  poiceVain  onvaJticWa  viii^lcaed  in  wi« 

\aetting,  which  stand  at  the  ri^t  aaAVlV  o^  *ieraAxajwMi,^«tt 

Mta  of  the  wife  erf  a  ^mii  o.  Tor  B«iBrf>ii.  a»i  w-^-^— ■- ^ 


ker  of  the  sanctuary  changes  as  soon  as  one  walks  acrosB 
rd  to  the  right  of  it.  What  at  first  bltish  looks  like  the 
yard  of  a  machine-gun  shop  is  found  to  be  a  reliquary 
Japan-Russia  War;  many  battered  and  mutuated 
le-guns  stand  here  on  pedestals  made  for  them,  and  on 
*  them  are  inscriptions  recounting  their  bloody  history, 
^nt.  gun  behind  the  shield  was  removed  bv  the  Russians 
Russian  warship,  set  up  on  shore  for  the  clefense  of  Port 
',  and  did  great  damage  to  the  assaulting  army  before  it 
ptured.  The  badly  broken  gun  at  the  rear  of  the  upright 
(rhich  serves  as  a  descriptive  tablet,  was  thus  mutilated 
'-cent,  gun  manipulatea  by  the  Japanese  —  a  dreadfully 
scarred  relic  of  a  horrific  war.  The  long,  crippled  gim 
left  of  another  cartridge-shaped  descriptive  shaft,  was 
t  of  commission  by  a  28-cent.  Japanese  gun.  The  tall 
ed  gun  (also  a  28-cent.,  with  the  number  97-161.  and 
>n  the  same  plate)  was  manufactiu^  at  the  Osaka 
1  and  was  one  of  those  which  killed  the  greatest  number 
isians;  during  the  early  part  of  the  war  it  was' badly 
ed  by  the  Russian  fire,  but  was  later  repaired  and  was  a 
ul  argument  in  the  surrender  of  Port  Arthur.  According 
tablet,  it  was  placed  on  shore  2000  meters  from  the  outer 
defense,  and  from  that  point  it  hurled  its  deadly  missiles 
he  forts  and  ships.  It  was  instrumental  in  sinking  the 
n  warships  Retevezan^  Pobeida,  PoUavay  Peresvietf  Sevtur 
and  the  Bayan,  The  wicked  thing  rests  on  a  great 
le  base,  and  the  wonder  is  that  men  could  ever  move  its 
ulk  from  a  rocking  ship  to  the  shore. 

lacing  of  these  guns  behind  the  cover  of  203  Metre   Hill  resulted  \ 

isly  for  the  Russian  ships  cooped  up  in  Port  Arthur  Harbor.    One 

and  six  destroyers  were  the  only  vessels,  torpedo-launches,  and  other 

aft  excepted,  which  escaped  destruction.    The  terrific  plimging  fire 

gh  Hill  not  only  cruelly  mutilated  all  the  ships  that  could  not  find 

but  the  torpedo  village  of  Tiger's  Tail  was  utterly  destroyed.     The 

^orks  on  the  S.  side  of  the  E.  end  of  the  basin  were  also  heavily 

jr  evil-looking  guns  stand  about  the  grounds,  which 
back  (behind  the  shrine)  to  a  lovely  garden  witn  a  fish- 
The  bronze  fountain  in  this,  in  the  form  of  a  boy  holding 
gling  fish,  was  a  gift  of  the  Marquis  Mayeda^  daimyo  of 
'rovince.  The  plum  trees  which  bloom  here  in  late  Feb. 
rth  coming  to  see. 

*Museimi  of  Arms  (  Yushiuktvan),  with  a  magnificent 
ion  almost  as  complete  as  that  in  the  Royal  Armory  at 
i,  stands  at  the  right  (N.)  of  the  shrine,  in  the  same  corn- 
Entrance  at  the  right;  open  from  8  a.m.  to  5  p.m.  in 
jr,  and  9  to  3  in  winter;  admission,  5  sen.  The  attractive^ 
-style  edifice  of  red  brick  and  white  granite  was  built  «, 

purpose,  around  four  sides  of  a  handsome  garden  con-  ^ 

'  A  Dond.  some  firraceful  trees  and  a  niimhpr  nf  c)i«n\c\\iTd«^ 


158    Route  10.  TOKYO  MtMum  ef  Amm 

cannon  —  also  relics  of  the  late  war.  The  43  clean  and  irdlCi 
lighted  rooms  contain  a  superb  lot  of  objects  asBodated  wiCj 
Japan's  greatest  epochs,  and  it  is  to  be  deplored  that  no 
log  in  EngUsh  exists  to  give  the  interested  travels  a 
pleter  description  of  them;  for  in  point  of  beauty,  variety, 
historic  interest  many  are  deserving  of  minute  attention.  IT"* 
splendid  collection  of  now  almost  priceless  swords  and  b^ 
is  worth  seeing  many  times.  —  As  the  present  location  of 
of  the  articles  is  avowedly  temporary,  and  is  subject  to 
no  effort  will  be  made  here  to  describe  them  in  rotation. 

We  enter  through  a  narrow  room  filled  with  implements   ct 
war  dating  from  an  age  when  art  went  hand  in  hand  wit^  araosfi 
contest,  and  enemies  of  the  State  were  shot  with  cannon  ar 
beautiful  in  design  and  decoration  that  they  must  have  mitF- 
gated  the  pain  of  the  wounded.  On  both  sides  of  the  paasa^ 
way  are  many  relics  of  early  Korean  and  Chinese  invadons; 
and  of  Japanese  internecine  strife.    Here  are  many  tangible 
evidences  of  intercourse  with  the  first  Europeans  —  for  nom 
the  cruel  and  scheming  Jesuits,  and  the  mercenary,  psslm- 
singing  Dutchmen,  the  old  feudal  barons  got  all  they  knew  d 
war-instruments  more  complicated  than  bows  and  arrowBj 
spears,  clubs,  and  battle-axes.  Scattered  among  these  varied 
and  artistic  mementoes,  which  range  in  size  from  ponderous 
cannon  of  wonderful  bore  to  dainty  damascened  matchlodc 
pistols  of  intricate  mechanism,  are  many  early  Japanese  rifleB 
inlaid  with  gold  and  silver  foil  and  displaying  a  singular  peifee- 
tion  of  design  and  execution.    The  old  saddles,  the  Xhitoh 
shells,  and  minor  war  panoply  are  less  interesting. 

The  collection  of  war-pictures  —  many  of  them  painted 
with  more  fury  than  art  —  includes  portraits  of  field  marshabi 
generals,  and  many  smaller  fry.  Several  canvases  illustrate 
phases  of  the  Mongol  Invasion  (Rte.  39)  and  the  cruelty  of  the 
yellow  hordes  sent  hither  by  the  redoubtable  Kublai  ^lan. 
The  case  of  swords  belonging  to  the  Yasukuni  shrine  oontaioe 
some  that  are  classed  as  national  treasures.  The  fine  sword 
with  a  jewel-encrusted  sheath,  enriched  with  fat  goldfishes, 
was  given  by  Baron  Iwasdhi  and  is  said  to  be  similar  in  design 
to  the  famous  heaven-sent  sword  worshiped  at  the  Saered 
Shrine  at  Ise.  The  splendid  Korean  blade  near  by  is  worth 
looking  at.  — In  other  rooms  are  extensive  collections  of 
armor  under  which  the  greatest  hearts  of  Old  Japan  once  beat 
with  life  and  purpose;  the  banners  which  hang  above  them  were 
captured  from  rival  fiefs  or  foreign  enemies.  A  host  of  smaUer- 
objects  of  interest  repose  in  the  glass  cases— some  properiy 
identified,  others  understandable  only  to  the  native  mind.  The 
barbed  spears  15  ft.  long  attest  the  muscularity  of  some  of  the 
old  warriors;  the  suits  of  mail  are  purely  Japanese.  The  caief 
containing  the  fine  collection  of  relics  of  the  Fujiwara^  AM* 
koffaand  itte  Tokugawa  epochs  are  highly  interesting.  Near  by 


hiOkwest  Quarter,  TOKYO  10.  Route.    150 

re  afisortments  of  weapons  used  by  the  early  Ainu  and  by  the 
'ormosan  head-hunters. 

Of  interest  to  Americans  is  the  machine-^un  (made  by  Pratt 
:  Whitney f  of  Hartford,  Conn.)  presented 'To  His  Majestv, 
ie  Mikado  of  Japan,  by  General  U.  S.  Grant.'  It  usuaJly 
^ands  near  an  old  Chinese  cannon  mounted  on  a  red  and  gold 
uriage  (a  relic  of  the  Boxer  War).  Hard  by  are  some  Gatiing 
attery  guns;  an  old  Claxton  gun;  several  bronze  cannon  of 
trasbourg  make  with  the  crown  and  monogram  of  the  lesser 
Fapoleon,  and  the  date  1861-62;  some  grim  old  Russian  guns; 

collection  of  German  armor  of  the  16th  cent. ;  and  a  host  of 
^lics  of  various  kinds,  wrested  from  the  Russians  on  the 
lains  of  Manchuria.  The  enlarged  and  colored  photographs 
f  the  Russian  War  are  instructive.  In  some  of  the  rooms  are 
uge  war-drums,  relics  of  the  Stone  Age  in  Japan,  and  a  host 
f  articles  of  domestic  use  among  the  Ainus.  In  an  adjoin- 
ig  building  is  the  Museum  Library)  misnamed,  since  it  con- 
lins  only  a  lot  of  kakemonos  and  specimens  of  chirography 
some  of  the  panels  20  ft.  long)  of  dead  worthies. 

The  Southwest  Quarter. 

The  section  embraced  within  the  Akasaka,  Azabu,  SMba, 
ad  the  S.W.  half  of  Kojimachi  wards  is  one  of  the  most 
btractive  of  the  city.  The  N.E.  part  is  often  called  the  Official 
•uarter,  for  at  the  W.  of  the  Palace  moat,  where  long  double 
)W8  of  the  mansions  of  feudal  barons  once  stood,  are  one  or 
tore  detached  palaces,  numerous  embassies  and  legations; 
irines,  schools,  dwellings,  and  the  well-known  Foreign  Office, 
here  international  questions  are  discussed.  The  region  at  the 
ick  of  this  structure  is  almost  wholly  residential.  Parlia- 
lent,  the  Naval  Department,  and  the  Law  Courts  face  it,  and 
le  magnificent  old  wide-spreading  cherry  trees  in  the  yard 
re  a  beautiful  sight  in  early  April.  The  life-size  bronze  monu- 
lent  (erected  in  1908)  on  a  granite  pedestal  in  front  of  the  por- 
eo  commemorates  Count  Munemitau  Mutsu  (b.  1847,  d. 
397),  sometime  senator  (genroin-gikvxin)  and  stanch  sup- 
orter  of  the  Imperial  Restoration.  Becoming  implicated  in 
le  Satsuma  Rebellion  he  was  imprisoned,  but  in  1888  was 
lade  Minister  to  Washington,  and,  in  1892,  Minister  of  Foreigp 
ifairs.  The  official  residences  of  the  present  minister  and  hSs 
jcretary  (who  also  is  press  censor,  etc.)  are  in  the  compound 
dth  the  Foreign  Office.  That  of  the  Vice-Minister  and  of  the 
)reign  adviser  are  near  by,  and  that  of  the  Prime  Minister 
I  in  the  immediate  neighborhood.  The  big  building  in  the  rear 
f  the  Gavmusho  is  the  Detached  Palace  (often  called  K<uumi' 
asehi^kyU  —  'spring-mist'  palace  —  from  the  hillslope  on 
iiieh  it  stands)  of  the  late  Prince  Arisugawa  Tarvhito  SMnn^. 
)l8tinguished  foreign  visitors  are  often  quartered  bfiire.  TVift 


r 


tMO    Souls  10.  TOKYO 

«oniinanding  equeHtrian  statue  in  the  yard  of  the  'a 

Office  (PI.  B,  5)  commemoratea  the  Prince  (b.  1835-  d/l , 

who  commanded  the  army  sent  to  subdue  the  last  partiuni 
of  the  shogun  in  1868-69;  and  the  one  which  suppressed  the 
Satsuma  Rebellion  in  1877.  He  was  the  first  Director-in-Cbief 
of  the  Staff  Office;  was  made  a  l<1eld  Marahal  in  1878,  and  diad 
during  the  Chinese-Japanese  War.  The  German  Embonr 
Stands  near  the  moat,  at  the  rear  of  thn  StalT  Office,  and  fareba 
along  the  moat,  on  a  commanding  site  embowered  in  eheny 
trees,  is  the  British  Embassy.  That  of  the  United  StalM 
occupies  an  insignificant  structure  at  some  distance  to  the  left 
(W.)neartheBummitofasUglit  acclivity  known  as  RHnaniakt 
(PI.  D,  5).  Hard  by  is  the  popular  St.  Andrews  Church,  and 
the  Okura  Private  Museum  described  below. 

The  'Okura  Pine  Arts  Uuseum  (Okura  BijuUu-faam),  at 
No.  3,  Am-cko,  Kdoniitaka,  near  the  American  Embaaiiy  tn 
Akasaka-hii  (Pi.  D,  6),  one  -of  the  finest  and  moet  eKtendvc 
collections  (said  to  be  worth  5  million  yen)  of  Japanese,  CSiiD- 
ese,  and  Korean  art-antiques  in  the  Empire,  is  housed  (it 
present)  in  the  palatial,  seniii-foreipn  dwelling  of  its  owd«. 
Mt.  Kihachiro  Okura,  a  public-spirited  multi-millionaire,  a 
well-known  poet  (over  the  pseudonym  of  Tsurukiko-o),  and  • 
connoisseur  of  unusual  taste  and  judgment.  Few  travelcOT 
interested  in  Par-Eastern  art  will  wish  to  leave  Tokyo  witboot 
seeing  this  admirable  collection,  which  in  many  reepecta  Bin^ 
passes  thatof  the  Imperial  Museum  (with  which  it  willperti^M 
later  be  merged)  at  Uj/eno  Park. 

Mr.Ohirabeeaa  ttae  ai^qulntiun  of  the  tarett  of  his  sems  of  native  cnfl>- 
■suuhEp  BOOH  after  the  ReslorBtioii  (la  1S6S).  before  Japan  was  'dbrav 
Qrqd  '  by  cDlJectDra,  and  whea  but  a  limited  lew  Japanpse  valueil  at  their 

■ ^^  '' * roelaina,  bTcnioBi  lacquerB.  anti  eiruiEarart  prodUFti 

briUisnl  epoDh  nF  the  luiuiioua  sod  citravai^ 

_  .,_e  the  beautiful  fabrioi,  bioiiigl. 

,  — -  --..^^.-^,  „-  old  prooperoua  fanulica  Beeni  to  have  valuod  pothiu 
iiueh,  DeiC  tf>  their  sworda,  aflafilleuieeeof1Acque^-wa^ll:fnl'n  the  hand  «r 
Bomo  rvooeuiBed  maeter.  But  ob  the.  old  older  of  Uilnu  in  Japan  woa  luuliea 
IIP,  thSifuru&Dd  dainty6»  Idm  their  power,  and  many  beautiful  apeoiDieia  uf 
induatnal  art  which  uad  bitherto  Ijoeu  treated  to  a  certaio  eif^iit  mi  imJ* 
ioomH,  and  had  beea  exhibited  and  admired  with  pride  and  pleaaikre,  mn 
OpRteoted  and  trifled  away,  and  a  Ivge  number  of  the  old  and  vnluafala  Ia«- 
iclei  c&me  into  the  hands  of  traders  and  atranfer!.   Their  orlM 

IB  (1808-70)  is  said  to  have  been  ao  low  as  toiuaUfy  the  ofleB 

repeated  eipreanon  ul  the  seller,  that  it  would  bo  mure  pcoBlable  lo  bun 
.->    .    ,  .g  n,5iiji,g  them.' 

The  collection  of  Chinese  lacquer  of  the  Ming  Dynaety  ■ 

perhaps  unrivaled  for  beauty^  variety,  and  wonh;   and  but 

VUttle  less  inferior  is  the  collecbon  of  porcelains  produced  dot- 

■jng  various  Chinese  dynasties.    Among  the  ram  and  ob^ 

I  Japanese  pieces  are  some  lacquered  objects  by  Ogata  KOrit 

Wfa  celebrated  17th  cent,  artwl),  baA  ottvera  Viv  Ksuetra  fget 

IBl).  The  sculptured  wood  mas^erpiewsBXi'jTJ'vViA  >v^.<MiSv 

of  undeniable  authenticits,  as  bm  tiao  \iiB  \.^iaoi*^i 


^  Arts  Museum.  TOEYO  10.  Route.    161 

ood-carvinsB  from  the  (7th  cent. )  Hdryllji  Temple ,  near  Nara, 

le  rare  and  splendid  productions  of  EshiUj  and  other  how 

most  priceless  antiques.  A  feature  of  the  exhibit  is  a  Buddhist 

snple  which  once  stood  in  ShibaPark  and  which  is  representa^' 

ve  of  the  best  work  of  the  late  Tokugawa  period.  The  series  c^ 

hibetan  bronzes,  pictures,  and  other  objects  form  a  collection 

srhaps  unique  in  its  completeness  of  the  art  of  that  little- 

lown  country. 

As  the  collection  is  private,  the  muaetim  is  not  open  to  the  general  public. 
imiBsion  can,  however,  be  secured  through  one's  ambassador  or  minister; 
roiii|li  some  friend  of  the  owner;  or  upon  request  to  the  manager  of  the 
ipenal  Hotel,  at  Tdky5.  The  rooms  are  apt  to  be  closed  on  Mondays. 
lere  is  no  official  catalogue  of  the  collection,  which  is  being  constantly 
ded  to.  English  is  spoken.  No  fees  necessary.  Many  of  the  vases,  etc., 
e  *  loaded  '  with  shot  or  some  similarly  heavv  substances,  or  are  tied  down 
prevent  their  being  tipped  over  and  broken  by  earthquakes.  The  position  • 
the  articles  is  chan^ea  from  time  to  time.  The  entire  collection  is  remark- 
iy  free  from  forgeries,  and  it  differs  from  that  of  the  general  run  of  muse- 
08  in  that  a  lar^e  proportion  of  the  articles  have  been  selected  for  their 
auty  and  artistic  excellence.  The  verv  old  ones  are  significant  reminders 
the  great  antiquity  of  the  Japanese  cbmasty. 

The  Entrance  (shoes  need  not  be  removed)  is  at  the  end  of 
wide,  pebble-strewn  driveway  which  winds  up  through 
>acious  grounds,  then  beneath  a  temple-Uke  gateway,  to  t£e 
ise  of  a  commanding  hill  {Edomizaka)  on  which  the  ouildinffis 
and.  Two  handsome  bronze  temple-lanterns  stand  at  each 
de  of  the  richly  carved  portico  —  also  in  the  Buddhist  style  of 
•chitecture.  The  two  huge  sculptured  wood  Deva  Kinss  in 
le  vestibule  are  virile  examples  of  the  immortal  Unket^sbeRi 
ork.  The  large,  decorated  cedar-wood  doors  (after  the  st^le 
those  of  HvdeyoshVs  Peace  Palace  at  Momo-yama)  behind 
lem  are  less  worthy  of  attention  than  other  and  better  ones 
pstairs.  In  niches  at  the  right  of  the  long,  winding  stair,  above 
le  wainscoting,  are  carved  and  seated  wood  figures  of  various 
uddhist  bonzes  and  divinities.  The  carved  and  gilded  pierced 
ood  panels  are  worth  looking  at. 

At  the  upper  landing  is  a  small  hall  notable  for  some  crisp 
irvings  of  various  designs;  for  some  bold  and  striking  wood 
3ulptured  dragons;  and  for  a  painted  dragon  (on  the  ceiling) 
scribed  to  Kano  Tsunenobu.  Beyond  the  door  at  the  right  is 
tiled  hall  in  which  there  are  some  large  and  very  old  wood 
gures  admirably  carved  (artist  unknown)  out  of  single  pieces 
icamphor  wood;  and  some  curious  old  Thibetan  bronzes;  one 
f  Vishnu,  the  mythological  Hindu  god.  In  the  small  room  at 
be  end  of  the  passage  are  kept  some  of  the  best  examples  of 
be  splendid  lacquered  work  of  Koyetsu  (p.  ccxliv)  who  was 
qualiy  renowned  as  a  writer,  a  painter,  a  worker  in  lacquer 
nd  pk)rcelain,  and  as  an  expert  swordsmith,  and  who  descended 
•om  a  celebrated  family  of  sword-makers.  One  of  his  master- 
ieoes  here  is  a  somber  lacquered  box  overlaid  with  lead  deei  m 
sfief — the  delight  of  Japanese  art  connoisseurs.  AnotYieT  \b  a 
MA  bamboo  basket  with  a  superimposed  imperial  Cdx 


162    Route  10.  TOKYO  Fine  ArU  Mum. 

igoBhchjguruma)  efifectively  wrought  in  metal,  and  near  it  u 
India-ink  writing-case  of  Rakvryaki  (p.  ocliii)  Gdbowiiu|  aP^ 
liarly  brilliant  glaze  which  modem  craftsmen  find  dmcnttfia 
imitating  succ^sfully.  Near  by  are  some  lacquo^  pieces  by 
Korin  whose  specialty  in  this  subtle  art  was  the  superimpOflitiDii 
of  gay  and  bnlliant  flowers,  fans,  and  the  like.  His  work  oon- 
trasts  strongly  with  the  gloomy  productions  of  his  predeceaMV. 
Retracing  our  steps  to  midway  of  the  corridor  we  enter  t 
large  room  (the  reconstructed  ballroom  of  the  Okura  nuusflOB) 
containing  a  number  of  big  glass  cases  with  scores  of  statM 
of  various  sizes.  The  highly  colored  (new)  painted  paneb  d 
the  showy  coffered  ceiling  are  of  subjects  taken  from  a  msoStt 
ceiling  in  the  Horyuji  Temple;  until  time  tones  the  colon  to 
the  tints  of  the  originals  their  chief  charm  will  lie  in  the  fact 
that  they  are  faithful  representations  of  an  art  that  flouiffihed 
in  old  Yamato  1^  centuries  ago,  when  Japanese  art  vraa  in  ite    k, 
infancy  and  all  its  inspirations  were  drawn  from  China  or  India.  ^ 
Many  of  the  wood  statues  in  this  room  date  from  the  Nan 
period  (8th  cent.):  the  two Shi-tenno  (p.  ccvii)  in  the  central 
case  (left)  are  by  Unkei;  beside  them  is  a  small  shrine  contun- 
ing  a  central  figure  of  Monju  surrounded  by  a  thousand  tiny 
carved  Buddhas,  and  another  Monju  on  a  lion,  delicately  and 
beautifully  carved  by  the  same  artist.  Among  the  many  fine 
antiques  in  the  opposite  case  is  a  conspicuous,  solid-laoquer 
statue  of  Prince  Shotoku-taishi  when  a  boy  —  a  bizarre  reBc 
of  the  earliest  authentically  historical  period  of  Buddhism  in 
Japan.  The  group  of  beautifully  sculptured  and  gilded  figur- 
ines at  the  rear  of  the  room  once  belonged  to  the  TSnomiiM 
Temple  (Rte.  34),  and  besides  being  remarkably  preserved  is  one 
of  the  most  important  extant  of  the  early  art-craftsmanship  of 
Japan.  It  represents  the  heavenly  orchestra  of  Hie  Buddnist 
paradise  and  is  noteworthy  in  that  each  figure  differs  in  atti- 
tude and  expression  from  its  neighbor,  and  is  an  admirable 
example  of  pure  Japanese  art  in  a  field  in  which  the  sculptorB 
of  India  and  China  excel.  The  large  central  image  of  Amida 
(p.  ccii)  has  a  Kwannon  (p.  ccv)  at  the  right,  and  DaUeM 
(symbolic  of  filial  piety)  at  the  left.  Each  of  the  25  supple  and 
charmingly    graceful  feminine  figures  carries  some  sort  of  a 
musical  instrument  carved  with  consummate  skill.  The  gnnip 
of  lovely  Buddhas  at  the  right,  —  a  tall  one  and  two  smaller 
ones,  —  each  with  a  nimbus  emitting  rays  of  celestial  light,  '* 
ascribed  to  Eshin  Sozu.  It  symbolizes  a  vision  that  appeared 
to  the  artist  while  at  prayer,    and  is  supposed  to  represent 
Buddha  in  paradise,  enveloped  in  golden  light :  the  cloud  wavei 
carved  in  lugh  relief  on  the  splendid  gilded  dragon-stand  aia 
admirably  executed,  as  are  Ukewbe  the  lotuses,  the  waves,  and 
the  figures  of  the  Rakan  on  the  boldly  carved  gnt  panel  gh  the 
table  on  which  the  3  central  figures  sit. 
An  unhandsome  but  very  valuable  figure  in  this  room  if  i^ 


164    Route  10.  TOKYO       '   FimArUMmm, 

show  the  tagidaski  work,  i.e.,  surfaces  on  whioh  gold  dart  ■ 
applied  before  the  coating  of  lacquer,  so  as  to  pro<Uioea  metal 
luster  by  polishing.  A  fine  box  here  displays,  in  an  exqaiste 
lightening  of  gold  tone,  the  8  celebrated  beauties  of  tl^  I^ 
of  Omi. 

Passing  through  this  room  we  ascend  a  long  winding  stair 
to  an  upper  apartment  containing  many  choice  spedmeiui  d 
lacquer-work,  the  products  of  a  period  when  bulky  meces  tfw 
lacquered  furniture  were  more  highly  prized  than  tne  smaUff 
and  daintier  bits.  Here  is  shown  some  of  the  best  woric  of  the 
most  celebrated  lacquerers  who  settled  in  Yedo  during^ 
17th  cent.,  when  the  Tokugawa  rule  was  firmly  establufaedt 
peace  reigned  throughout  the  Empire,  and  the  ehdgiau  9m 
feudal  barons  enjoyed,  in  practically  undisturbed  ser^iityf  the 
many  refinements  of  a  luxurious  age. 

That  certain  of  these  old  craftsmen  attained  their  hij^iflft 
achievements  of  beauty  and  excellence  during  this  period  is 
convincingly  shown  by  many  of  the  objects  in  the  room.  Worth 
noting  is  the  oblong  carrying-chest  called  NagamockC  (in  reality 
a  traveling-trunk),  on  which  are  the  crests  of  260  daimydSf  with 
the  Tokugawa  crest  (of  the  ahogun)  in  the  center  of  the  top; 
radiating  in  all  directions,  in  scarcely  distinguishable  dutf^ 
acters  —  so  exquisitely  fine  is  the  work  —  are  brief  histories 
of  the  dainty 08  and  of  their  fiefs  and  incomes,  — a  record  in 
gold  of  one  of  the  most  interesting  and  picturesque  periods  of 
the  nation's  life.  Near  this  chest  are  some  smaller  and  daintitf 
ones,  called  Hasamibako  —  lacquered  Ajimono-boxes  suspended 
by  metal  rings  which  fit  over  a  pole  carried  on  a  coolie's  shoul- 
der. In  former  times  they  were  used  by  persons  of  rank  for 
sending  presents  on  the  occasion  of  weddings  and  other  festal 
occasions.  The  style  of  lacquered  work  on  the  inner  side  of  the 
overhanging  covers  of  the  boxes  is  called  Murorruuhi^  or 
clustered  and  irregular  spots  of  pear-skin  design.  The  hea^ 
elegant,  silk  cords,  with  tassels,  were  used  to  fasten  the  stiff 
silken  covers  in  which  the  boxes  were  wrapped.  —  The  supab 
set  of  lacquered  pieces  in  the  wall-case  formed  the  neoeaarf 
part  of  a  wealthy  lady's  trousseau  in  the  Tokugawa  period. 
The  wedding  palanquin  (norimono)  of  heavy  gold  lacauer -- 
another  instance  of  the  luxury  of  that  brilliant  era  —  belonged 
to  the  Princess  Mori,  an  18tn-cent.  beauty  who  married  Lod 
Sd  —  a  descendant  of  a  family  of  daimyos  who  from  tie  12^ 
cent,  onward  ruled  over  the  Tsushima  Islands;  the  family 
crest  appears  on  the  shoulder-poles  by  which  6  coolies  (ru^ 
mono-hiki)  carried  the  dainty  conveyance.  It  is  worth  while 
sliding  the  finely  lacquered  shutter,  and  lifting  the  tilting  eftve 
of  the  roof  to  peep  into  the  luxurious,  silken  interior,  where  the 
haughty  princess  used  to  sit  as  she  was  borne  from  and  to  the 
feudal  mansion  of  her  lord.  The  finely  lacquered  minieal 
jDBtrumentB  in  this  room  are  interesting. 


Fine  Arts  Museum.  TOKYO  10.  Route.    165 

We  now  proceed  to  an  apartment  where  there  is  a  solid  silver 
mantelpiece  of  intricate  workmanship  that  formed  a  part  of 
the  Japanese  exhibit  at  the  Paris  Exposition.  The  sentiment 
expressed  by  the  sea-gulls  flying  over  the  crests  of  the  break- 
ing waves,  and  the  great  moom  represented  by  the  huge  circu- 
lar mirror  above,  is  prettier  tnan  the  object  itself.  Of  much 
greater  interest  is  the  large  glass  wall-case  containing  a  superb 
collection  of  lacquered  inro  —  the  dainty  little  sectional  medi- 
cine- or  seal-cases,  which  formerly  were  carried  swung  to  the 
belt,  and  which  now  are  the  favorites  of  many  collectors.  Each 
of  the  170  or  more  gem-like  receptacles  has  its  spirited  sculp- 
tured ivory,  or  other  netsvke  (used  originally  for  holding  the 
kinchakuy  or  tobacco-pouch,  at  the  girdle),  which  in  themselves 
are  worthy  of  detailed  inspection.  Conspicuous  among  the 
inro  are  several  of  porcelain,  the  most  valuable  and  the  rarest 
being  by  Ogawa  Keman.  The  awkward  porcelain  duck  is  by 
one  of  the  early  Kyoto  potters,  and  is  prized  more  for  its  age 
than  for  its  beauty. 

The  practically  flawless  cabinet  of  Kiri-Qane-lakaHmtikiye 
(*  cut-metal-raised-gold-lacquer-work*)  in  the  big  central 
glass  case  should  not  be  overlooked,  as  it  is  considered  one  of 
the  most  perfect  specimens  extant  of  the  best  17th-cent.  crafts- 
manship. It  was  made  (by  a* now  unknown  artist  who  spent 
16  yrs.  at  the  task)  for  the  luxury-loving  Tokugawa  shdgun, 
Tsunayoshi  (1646-1709),  during  the  Genroku  era.  A  more 
exquisitely  chaste  ornamentation  than  that  of  the  raised  gold 
work  —  which  consists  of  plates  of  pure  yellow  gold  fastened 
to  the  lacquered  base  —  is  scarcely  conceivable.  Every  milll- 
cneter  of  the  inner  and  outer  surfaces  is  fleckless,  and  ail  carry 
the  same  faultless  designs  of  mountains,  seas^  pine-clad  hills, 
rivers,  waterfalls,  and  dainty  vistas  —  surprisu]|i;ly  well  exe-  . 

cuted  in  view  of  the  difficult  medium  employed^  The  silver  J 
comer  pieces  are  intricately  chased,  and  their  delicate  imagery 
is  very  pleasing.  While  the  color-loving  enthusiast  may  find 
the  object  cold,  and  lacking  in  the  grace  and  charm  which  tints  « 
inspire,  to  the  average  Japanese  —  who  ponders  over  the 
untliinkable  patience  required,  and  the  care  and  fidelity  to 
nature  displayed  —  it  is  a  priceless  relic  of  one  of  the  greatest 
fx'riods  of  development  of  the  lacquerer's  art  in  Japan.  Its 
f>erfection  is  only  equaled  by  the  purity  of  the  artist's  concep- 
tion, and  of  the  gold  employed  m  its  fashioning.  —  Before 
leaving  the  room  the  traveler  should  inspect  the  case  contain- 
ing a  dozen  or  more  flawless  rock-erystids,  the  liugest  a  trifle 
over  5  in.  in  diameter. 

We  now  go  to  an  adjoining  apartment  where  there  axe  many 

specimens  of  early  lacquer-work;  Bome  of  them  dating  from  lYve 

12th  cent.,  thanoe mnging down  through  various  periods  oi  tYve 

A^^^^aA'i^ra and pA;uffau!a  epochs;  most  valuable  amone  lYvem 

w  .  lustoncsi  newpomt,  sre  the  pieces  on^wS^e S 


166    Route  10.  TOKYO  Fine  Arts  Muaemik 

fully  pictured,  in  gold  lac(]juer,  cert?»in  of  the  tali,  lanky,  awk- 
wiuxi-looking  Hollanders  oi  the  Deahima  Factory  (at  NagaaakCi^ 
with  their  queer  hats,  long  pipes,  cumbrous  shoes,  aiid  vol- 
uminous clothes.  They  appear  as  odd  to  the  traveler  now  as 
they  must  have  to  the  amazed  Japanese  of  the  17th  cent,  when 
they  first  sailed  up  from  the  S.  in  their  bizarre  ships  laden  with 
the  strange  European  articles  which  the  Nipponese  had  never 
seen.  The  collection  of  the  oldest  and  rarest  pieces  is  caDed 
Jidai-mahiye  (antique  lacquer).  Scattered  through  it  are  a 
number  of  objects  which  once  belonged  to  the  Taikd  Hide* 
yoahi,  —  In  the  lower  hall,  through  which  we  now  pass,  are 
some  curious  old  Thibetan  pictures  (for  which  the  museum  is 
celebrated)  rarely  seen  in  collections.  In  a  foUowing  room  are 
hundreds  of  beautiful  and  costly  brass  and  bronze  statues 
chiefly  of  divinities  of  the  Buddhist  Pantheon;  in  still  another 
is  an  extensive  collection  of  rare  porcelains  with  several  splen- 
did pieces  by  Keman. 

Noteworthy  among  the  folding  screens  (byohu)  in  the  spa- 
cious Screen  Room,  are  some  by  Korin  showing  various 
paintings  on  an  old  gold  ground.  Equally  attractive  are  those 
depicting  gorgeously  clad  women  of  the  Genroku  era,  the  work 
of  the  inimitable  Domo  no  Matahei  (p.  ccxxviii),  whose  whim- 
sical delineations  of  street  life  are  celebrated.  The  Ghinbsb 
Department  upstairs  contains  a  rich  and  valuable  assortment 
of  fine  porcelains,  crystal-ware,  jade,  jadeite,  bronzes,  furniture 
inlaid  with  nacre,  and  many  superb  pieces  depicting  Chinese 
art  in  its  different  phases.  The  opium-smoking  couch  is  bar- 
barically  elaborate;  the  big  chunks  of  malachite  (a  hydrous 
carbonate  of  copper)  are  from  Siberian  mines.  In  the  long 
glass  case  are  some  ancient  Chinese  tiles  (the  oldest  said  to 
date  back  3000  yrs.)  that  resemble  fine  intaglios.  Opening  out 
of  this  room  is  the  Korean  Department,  with  many  porce- 
lains, bronzes,  and  other  relics  of  the  long-dead  art  of  that 
strange  country.  Passing  through  a  room  where  there  are  many 
suits  of  well-preserved  ancient  Japanese  armor,  we  come  to 
several  big  cedar  doors  handsomely  decorated  in  the  style 
popular  in  the  16th  cent.  They  are  said  to  have  come  from 
Hideyoshi's  palace  at  Momo-yama  (near  Kyoto).  —  In  a 
shallow  wall-case  is  a  varied  lot  of  carved  wood  masks,  start- 
lingly  lifelike,  and  used  in  the  ancient  dances. 

Proceeding  now  through  a  corridor  terminating  at  the  \s£i 
wing,  we  enter  the  Temple  Department,  first  traversing  a 
spacious  room  where  a  number  of  huge  gilded  Buddhas  sit  in 
solemn  silence,  as  if  meditating  over  the  mutability  of  Bud- 
dhistic affairs.  The  suite  forms  the  sometime  shrine  (with  its 
customary  priests'  apartments)  which  was  erected  by  the  4th 
Tokugawa  shogun,  letsunay  in  Shiba  Park,  and  dedicated  to  his 
wife.  With  the  transition  of  time  the  structure  was  ei'vai  bf 
the  Tokugawa  family  to  the  ZQjdji  corporation,  whtoh  later 


Fme  ArU  Mmkum,  TDKYO  10.  AMfe.    1S7 


sold  H  to  Its  fHesent  ofwner^  Tlie  buOdmg  was  ffisnioiiiited, 
tamef erred  here,  and  reeonstracted  and  decorated  in  Hs  pna- 
tineeplendor.  Outer  walk  inckne  it.  In  one  of  the  rooms  is  a 
very  valuable  but  singularly  ancomely  Fti^en  <m  an  elephant, 
not  very  shapely,  and  almost  ready  to  crumUe  to  dust  by  the 
weight  of  the  years  ^idiich  rest  upon  it.  It  was  carved  some 
time  between  a.d.  710-84,  by  an  unknown  student  of  one  of 
the  India  schools,  and  is  oonadered  such  a  priceless  treasure  of 
early  art  that  it  was  s»it  to  the  P^uis  Exposition  to  be  enjoyed 
by  antiquarians  thore.  In  the  old  naijin^  or  innermost  shnne- 
rocMo  of  the  temple,  the  door  to  which  is  guarded  by  two  lions 
ascribed  to  Kano  Tnmencbu,  is  a  big,  seated,  gold4>ronae 
Buddha  (one  of  the  finest  in  the  collection)  of  Indian  or  Chin- 
ese (»igin,  with  a  facial  exixesBion  singpilariy  like  that  of  its 
amiable  owner.  The  elaborate  coffered  ceding,  with  each  sunksi 
panel  covered  by  a  wrig^ing  dragon,  is  ¥raNrth  looking  at. 

Quitting  the  temi^e  sanctum  we  proceed  along  a  tikd  hall- 
way adorned  with  numerous  antiques,  among  them  some  excel- 
lent panels  by  Ritstu),  an  18th-cent.  artist  whose  specialty 
was  the  skillful  superposition  of  porcdain  omamoitation  to 
wood  surfaces.  The  upper  rooms  form  a  findy  decorated 
Jodan  and  Gedan  (a  sort  of  tribune  and  lower  room),  the  latter 
with  some  sliding  screens  (by  Kano  Sanraku)  that  came  out  of 
Hideyoshi^s  paku;e  and  are  considered  masterpieces;  bamboos 
and  flowering  trees  on  an  old-gold  ground  are  the  decorative 
themes.  The  coffered  ceiling  with  dragons  is  handsome.  The 
mural  painting  in  the  alcove  (iokonoma)  of  the  Jddan  is  attrib- 
uted to  Kano  Eitoku.  The  plain  but  chaste  coffered  ceiling, 
with  its  panels  of  shimmering  gold,  is  striking;  also  the  richly 
gilded  and  deeply  carved  ramma  showing  foliated  peonies  in 
bloom.  In  an  adjoining  room  is  one  of  the  choicest  and  most 
valuable  coUections  of  carved  Pekin  cinnabar  lacquer  {tsui' 
shiu)  extant;  the  deep,  rich  Indian  red  color  and  the  wonder- 
fully intricate  surface  work  are  admirable.  Several  big  glass 
cases  are  required  to  hold  all  the  pieces,  nearly  every  one  of 
which  is  a  gem.  In  strange  contrast  to  these  adorable  expres- 
sions of  the  old  artistic  spirit  of  the  Ming  Dynastjr  are  the 
grotesque  hanging  wood  panels  of  the  curiously  mis-shapen, 
foreshortened  horses  attributed  to  the  celebrated  left-handed 
sculptor,  Hidari  Jingoro  (p.  259). 

On  the  stair  landing  near  by,  in  a  glass  case^  is  a  repulsive 
but  extraordinarily  effective  sculptiued  wood  figure  of  one  of 
the  Rakan,  the  work  of  the  inimitable  Unkei.  The  equally 
homely  figure  in  the  other  case  will  bear  close  inspection,  for 
certain  of  the  skillful  touches  betray  a  master  hand;  the  figure 
(from  the  old  Kofuku-ji  Temple  at  Nara)  is  one  of  Shaka*9 
ten  most  learned  disciples,  and  is  perhaps  the  work  of  the^iest 
Mandoshi,  an  8th-cent.  Indian  sculptor  who  has  Mt  o^^ 
Bpedmeoa  of  his  illuminating  work  in  the  Nara  MufieMOi.-— ^ 


Soule  10. 


TOKYO 


f 


a(iiiition  to  thi)  rooma  described  there  are  othera  with  n  _ 
laneoua  lota  of  Japanese  screens,  kakemonos,  and  vaiiow' ■' 
curios.  The  traveler  with  time  to  apaje  may  perhapa  wiah  to 
inspect  the-bronze  objecta  near  the  fountain,  in  the  yard.  The 
broniie  statue  of  Mr.  Okura  (unveiled  Oct.  23,  1&13,  on  tie 
77th  anniversai'y)  is  the  work  of  the  scuiptor  Kozaburo  Takei- 
thl,  and  cost  3fi,000  yen. 

'ShibaPark  {or  ShibaKOen  or  kdenchi),  a  lar^,  well-wooded 
plot  dotted  with  t«mple3,  efarinoa,  gorgeous  mauiiolea,  tomba..B  j 
pBRoda,  a  lakelet,  numerous  monuments,   pleasure-^iird^^M 
and  what~Tiot  in  the  S.W.  quarter  of  the  city,  in  SiitM^^I 
<P1.  D,  6),  flanka  the  car  line  (10  min.  from  Hibiya  Parkji^H 
contains  some  mortuary  temples  of  the  Tokugawa  sAttM^^I 
and  their  consorta  which,  though  raindly  decayinK,  still  ^9| 
with  the  fineat  structures  of  their  kind  in  Japan,  and  are  classed  | 
with   the  'sights'  of   the  capital.     Though  wast^ully  rather 
than  tastefully  splendid,  they  well  deserve  a  visit,  particularly 
by  those  who  may  not  have  seen  the  aimilar  shrines  of  Nikko, 
Hard  by  the  park  is  a  Charity  Hospital  (Jikei-in)  in  which  the 
Empress  takes  considerable   interest,   and  of  which  ahp  is 
patroness.    Near  it  is  the  Shiba  Ward  office.     At  the  N,£. 
eoraer  of  the  park  is  a  permanent  basaar  (the  first  of  ite  kinil 
eatabliahed  in  Tokyo)  where  hosts  of  native-made  gimoraifti 
can  be  bought  at  fixed  prices.   The  exhibits  ot  potted  pi    '  '^ 
and  dwarf  trees  held  here  from  time  to  time  attract  Ioto 
Buoh  things.   The  bronjie  lam  p^tandard  diagonally  acroeBa 
road  from  the  Main  Gate  to  8hiba  Park,  adorned  withtorf^ 
and  cnkoea  (symbolic  of  longevity),  was  erected  by  the  pi 
of  the  ward  in  commemoration  of  the  marriage  of  the  pi 
Emperor.  The  bronze  statue  at  the  right  of  the  gat«  aUi 
the  memory  of  the  late  Count  Gold,  a  member  of  the  T 
Clan,  and  a  prominent  figure  in  the  early  life  of  New  Jspi 

Shlbl  Park  dates  i(s  praanriCy  fram  ISIK)  when  the  fine  Tab 
Ityam.  —  who  had  selsctai  Yedofor  his  oHpifaL  0  yta.  bafora, 

Zejiii  Temple  (the  metropolitan  haadquart«t9  of  the  ponerfij 

Buddhistfi)  to  h«  moved  hithtt  and  declared  it  the  place  wlwn  TlwfuV 
lablsli  (ilaii  of  himseU  and  higdeacQodiiota  should  bepnaened.  bn* 
o[  tiinH  thiiV  or  mare  lemplBa  and  mortunry  ahrines  Bprang  oplnttaaii 

■tnonsd  s  numbar  nT  Ilie  ininDr  buildings,  aod  the  great  eonflocntioii  of  IM 
buTiwd  the  munifiosat  old  ZdjAii  with  most  or  its  oonlsDU^lanHiitllrS 
iMg  oulsr  gjile  (.ranimon)  MondingHi!  aaole  Hucvivorot  the  oriBili«lgn|WjJ| 

leiQple,  to  be  a^uD  deattoyed  in  LOOS.  A  HBWer  and  mont  rinborMA  U 
la  now  being  cossCruotcd,  The  sltnudy  eipimaioa  of  TSkyB  and  it!  i«^ 
aeeda  haa  resulted  io  tha  dippiog  oft.  from  diae  to  time,  pi  meliaUD'W 


as' 


rly.  One  Iff  lO 


... \^VeAotv%^T\iSvti 

, :b  partly  indoKiB  and  piotepla  l.\«iin  Viwi 

-  a  the  brilliant  intoriotB  duckBDtQB.  und  Vto»  liijMin 

It  bamboo  blinds  (ludari}  wluoh.  mu«.\is  ^iioi^i^'™  ^^"^^ 


[lauaoka.  TOEYO  10,  Route.    169 

per  person  is  exacted  by  the  custodian  (at  the  office)  of  each  of  the 
ps  of  buildings,  and  for  this  an  English-CQ)eaking  guide  is  supplied, 
luots  one  about  and  then  points  the  way  to  tlie  next  group,  where 
!88  is  repeated.  This  small  fee  removes  the  necessity  for  tipping,  but 
unusual  for  Japanese  to  deposit  small  coins  before  certain  of  the 
vhich  for  them  have  a  religious  import.  Upon  leaving  the  mortuary 
f  the  2d  Shogun  a  ticket  is  handed  the  visitor  and  this  is  given  up 
itrance  to  the  Octagonal  Shrine  or  tomb;  without  it  a  second  fee 
d.  Admittance  through  the  sammon  to  the  temporary  structure 
n  the  site  of  the  Zojoji  is  free.  With  the  exception  of  this  gate,  the 
nt  gates  are  kept  closed ;  the  entrance  to  the  mausolea  being  at  the 
)ugh  the  respective  offices.  Consult  the  accompansdng  plan.  Covers 
ded  gratis  for  shoes,  which  do  not  have  to  be  taken  off. 
«  above  5^  ft.  tall  will  save  themselves  numerous  bumps  by  keeping 
1  the  door-eases  as  they  pass  through  them,  since  they  are  all  made 
OS  of  small  stature.  Those  pressed  for  time  will  perhaps  be  satisfied 
Dspection  of  the  mausoleum  of  the  2d  ShSoun,  and  of  the  octagonal 
einjhe  is  buried ;  the  former  is  the  finest  and  richest  of  the  group,  and 
r  contains  what  is  thought  to  be  the  largest  and  best  specimen  extant 
le  Japanese  gold  lacquer  in  the  shape  of  a  tomb.  Next  in  point  of 
e  is  the  mortuary  temple  of  the  6th,  12th,  and  14th  Shoouks;  and  fol- 
1  the  order  named,  is  the  Ten-ei-in,  where  the  consorts  of  several  of 
ms  are  enshrined;  the  temple  of  the  7th  and  9th  ShSquns;  and 
!  Toshdgii.  Architecturally  they  are  all  practically  the  same,  the  dif- 
)nsistingof  the  varying  richness  of  their  interior  decorations;  all  are 
ring  if  one  has  the  time  to  spare,  and  all  may  be  supei^cially^  in- 
Q  2  hrs.  or  less.  All  but  the  one  first  mentioned  can  be  eainly  omitted 
veler  has  seen  the  similar  mausolea  at  Uyeno  Park,  since  they  are 
I  of  the  same  class  of  architecture  and  decoration.  The  Pagoda  ia 
\i  looking  at,  nor  are  the  other  shrines,  unless  the  visitor  is  specially 
i  in  them  and  their  worship.  It  remains  to  be  said  that  with  this 
)k  and  one  of  the  English-speaking  bonzes  supplied  by  the  temple 
y  other  guide^or  cicerone  is  unnecessary.^  Those  who  plan  to  see 
lildings  will  save  time  by  beginning  their  inspection  of  them  at  the 
tm  of  the  7th  and  9th  ShSquns,  then  systematically  following  the 
itlined  hereinafter. 

>hiba  Mausolea  consist  of  single  isolated  wood  temples  or  shrines 
e  from  slightly  elevated  granite  bases  (a  double  protection  against 
from  the  ground  and  from  fires) ,  and  are  supported  by  a  maze  of 
ompound  brackets  admirably  adjusted  to  withstand  the  heavv 
id  strain  of  the  ponderous  and  somewhat  clumsy  tile-roofed  build' 
ey  are  usually  connected  with  the  custodian's  office  (Stiamushd) 
2a  corridor,  and  are  themselves  protected  by  time-stained  weather- 
which,  while  imparting  to  tbem  the  bedraggled  look  of  old  barns, 
bhe  exterior  decorations  from  the  fierce  glare  of  a  brilliant  sun,  and, 
ure,  from  the  corrosive  quality  of  the  atmosphere  in  one  of  the  most 
and  treacherous  climates  of  the  world.  The  single-story  structures 
ly  encircled  by  narrow  galleries  flanked  by  classically  low  railings  of 
:ed  lacquer,  overshadowed  by  the  deep  projecting  eaves.  Almost 
h  of  the  exterior  walls  of  the  temples  is  covered  with  some  sort  of 
ration,  —  either  carved,  painted  or  lacquered,  —  but  most  of  this  is 
i  and  lusterless.  The  interiors  are  divided  into  three  apartments  — 
at  either  end  of  a  narrow  connecting  corridor  called  the  ainoma  or 
Room,  where  the  shogun  and  the  abbot  came  from  the  inner  shrine 
at  the  rear,  to  meet  the  daimyos  who  approached  from  the  (rec- 
outer  Oratory  {haiden) ;  the  beautifully  lacquered,  templenshaped 
hich  contain  the  mortuary  tablets  of  the  deceased  are  kept  in  the 
The  shogun  only  was  permitted  to  penetrate  to  this  sacrosanct 
when  he  came  to  worship  the  deified  shades  of  his  forebears,  who 
ded  as  the  tutelary  divinities  of  Japanese  families.  The  daimyis 
)et  exalted  rank  and  highest  income  occupied  scrupulously  graded 
he  ainoma;  lesser  ones  had  to  be  content  with  seats  in  the  haiden;- 
mall  fry  were  kept  in  the  front  yard  (the  most  important  nearest 
>ps)  or  outside  the  gate. 
ain  of  the  mausolea,  notably  those  where  mortuary  tab\e\A  <A  v^t- 


170     Route  10.  TOKYO 


„  _'ahabby, 

B  BorpriBiag]/ omaW.  Tt 

olmed'-  '"^ '  ---■■— 


tied  teyowilBI 

T e«1irm«-iooafltf 

beoibBT,  The  actual  TDua 
WXKai  Hmeaui  wucd  uie  snouuns  are  Duneo,  are  ousComaiily  pIaoqiJ  da 
higher  terrace  near,  or  &t  the  bock  of,  the  templen,  and  they  «re  aJwaya  at  t 

liuguat  dead  are  nverBQDed.  Tboush  outwanlly  j^habby,  the 

otiaearBBi  *'     '  '      *' 

9  eaiunl  vi 

._. ed  eysot ._ 

CeratiJes  the  evidencea  of  the  atchir^atfliiic  Law  which  pervades  the  ,  ,  . 
of  all  of  tbem  — -  the  adjustment  of  beams  aod  Joiata,  pillars  and  pilastcil, 
arohaa  and  huttfejoea  to  an  eitemaJ  but  hidden  necesdty  —  that  i>f  pnjtootuf 
tham  a^iial  eartbquakeH  —  in  themovt  active  beJt  of  whioh  Tflbyd  siaiidL 
At  first  blwrh  they  appear  unEftable  and  LatrLinB  in  ureonio  oohoreooB;  tbt 
tremendoualy  heavy,  lile-veiEhted  roofa.  with  their  diaproportioiiate  on^ 
hang,  seem  too  large  for  ihe  Blender  walla,  and  one  rather  eipeotd  theai  to 
twiat  round  durinE  an  earthquake  and  in  fallins  eriad  their  fra^^Je  auiijKiAi 
into  powder.  Doobtlesa  tiie  impresaion  made  waa  deUberately  aioied  at^  tlitf 
BtarUiDE  effect  of  loo  niuch  mnsHveaesB  in  tho  roof  Qot  Beemuu:  undcor^ilt 
eiiod  when  the  temples  were  designed.    An  interior  uiapedJOD  j ' 


wave  invalidntE^  tlie  iuiproBBino  of  neakneaa  gsioed 
for  here  the  aoiwnua  are  atartlingly  soUd  and  erne  readily  undi 
■  '  '  ucceesfuLLy  withstood  not  ont  tho 


widch  Talcj«  re 


letropoUtan 


mm  of  the  3d  *A««tn.  Tm 

-  ,..._  monument  of  eedo«ta«i» 

oubiedly  the  moat  beautiful  of  tlie  la* 

(h  degree  of  perf 

.._      jkU  mauE^  fwheTTihab'i^diaW  •"       11 
»  and  a  apeciat  fund  is  set  asde  by  tb^lUsD) 
men),  tne  nmoft'-  "-^ —  ,—^:-t- j  ....  -i    ...._._. 

/orn™This  at, ..    

■  €i/omenta  wbinh  havo  betiu  graitedon^  t^uaTO.  to^  v\a^'&  ^Mw.\.~^i&%^Vt 

■  tmta  (heir  line  effect. 


jm 


Skiba  Mamolea.  TOKYO  10.  Rouie.    171 

The  Great  Gate  (Sammon)  which  admits  one  to  the  wide 
atrium  of  the  Zqjqji  was  redecorated  in  1911,  and  is  still  a 
splendid  and  sturdy  example  of  an  old  style  Buddhist  temple 
gateway.  The  rich  Indian  red  lacquer  with  which  it  is  entirely 
covered  makes  an  impressive  picture  against  the  green  of  the 
environing  trees;  it  is  imusually  plain,  and  the  black  metal 
ornaments  which  adorn  it  add  (ugnity  and  beauty.  There  are 
three  sets  of  heavy  doors,  six  in  all,  each  studded  with  metal 
bosses  and  display-hinges,  and  each  swung  on  huge  pivots  let 
into  soffits  above  and  below.  The  massive  upright  pillars,  which 
sit  in  bronze  sockets  resting  upon  grajiite  bases,  are  of 
almost  imperishable  keyaki,  but  smaller  in  circumference  than 
certain  of  the  superb  timbers  employed  in  the  mausoleimi  of 
the  2d  shogun,  A  maze  of  massive  compoimd  brackets  support 
the  twin  roofs,  which  are  tiled,  with  demon-faced  antefixes  at 
the  salient  angles.  The  upper  story  is  reached  by  flights  of 
stairs  leading  from  the  lateral  wings;  permits  are  necessary, 
but  the  images  (gilded  figures  of  ShakQf  Fugen,  Moniu,  and  a 
few  other  divinities)  contained  therein  are  of  no  specitJ  interest, 
and  will  scarcely  repay  the  time  spent  in  seeing  them. 

The  Priest's  Apartments  stand  at  the  left,  within;  and  at 
the  right,  beneath  a  tawdry  temporary  tower,  is  the  great 
bronze  bell  cast  in  the  16th  cent.  The  new  Zojoji  stands  on 
the  terrace  ahead;  the  chief  idol,  a  richly  gilded  image  of 
Amida  is  ascribed  to  Eshin.  The  white  crest  on  the  purple 
hangings  of  the  fane  is  the  mitsu-aoi,  or  three-leaved  asarum 
which  formed  the  crest  (a  symbol  frequently  employed  in  art 
expression)  of  the  Tokugawa,  At  the  right  of  the  temple  en- 
trance stands  a  low  gray  stone  bearing  a  chiseled  impression  of 
Buddha's  foot,  comparing  in  size  and  general  grotesqueness  to 
the  diplodocus-like  tooth  revered  in  the  Maligatoa  Temple  at 
Kandy,  in  Ceylon,  as  one  of  Buddha's  original  grinders.  The 
thousands  of  wood  strips  displayed  roundabout  show  the 
names  of  the  devotees  who  subscribed  to  the  erection  of  the 
new  temple.  The.  black  Amida  preserved  within  the  temple  is 
ascribed  to  Eshin  and  is  said  to  have  been  carried  by  leyasu 
as  a  mascot  in  his  military  campaigns. 

We  begin  oiu*  inspection  of  the  mausolea  at  the  Mortuaiy 
Shrine  of  the  7th  (letsiigu)  and  9th  (leahige)    Shdguns:  the 
entrance  is  at  the  N.  side  of  the  inclosure  (comp.  the  plan) 
opposite  the  pine  grove  called  Matsubara.   The  office  of  the 
custodian  is  just  within.    On  payment  of  the  20-sen  fee  the 
traveler  is  conducted  through  a  long  hall  with  faded  decora- 
tions, to  a  side  gallery  which  is  followed  until  the  main  entrance 
is  reached.  The  most  conspicuous  features  of  this  are  two  re- 
splendent tie-beams  formed  of  intricately  carved  and  ^dfidi 
wood  dragons;  one,  beaded  toward  the  fibiine,  c«iX\!^  \^» 
ascending  dragon;  the  other,  facing  the  corridqr,  tte  deaceacA- 
•ng  dragon.   The  arcade  ia  a  maze  of  still  riich  but  BadVy  i«A'ed 


174    Route  10.  tOkyO  SkSba  MmMka. 

of  their  granitic  character  and  their  supposed  quality  of  nehlwr 
fading  nor  changing  color  when  wet,  they  were  all  biouf^t  (as 
were  the  others  in  Shiba  Park)  from  the  distant  pioyinoe  of 
Kii  (S.  of  Ky5t5),  on  horseback,  at  a  tremendous  outJay  of 
time  and  effort. 

At  the  top  of  the  steps  stands  the  small  but  gorgeous  Ora- 
tory of  the  9th  shogun,  well  preserved  despite  152  yean  of 
exposure  to  the  changeable  Japanese  climate.    The  highly 
polished  floor  is  of  deep  black  lacquer;  the  prancing  kirin  oo 
the  brilliant  gold  wall-panels  are  by  Chikanobu  (a  great  favor- 
ite of  Yoahimuney  the  8th  shogun) ,  to  whom  is  also  ascribed  tiie 
handsomely  decorated  sunken  panels  of  the  coffertMl  ceiling. 
The  crests  on  the  folding  outer  doors  are  (top)  the  Tokugawa; 
{center)  the  Wheel  of  the  Law  and  (below)  a  compound  toJbo,  or 
mace,  held  by  Buddhist  priests  when  praying.  Eighteoi  stone 
steps  lead  up  from  the  rear  of  the  oratory  to  the  pagoda-shaped 
granite  tomb  resting  on  its  octagonal  base  and  surrounded  hf  a 
copper-sheathed  fence.    Twenty  feet   below  the  shrine-like 
structure,  wrapped  like  that  of  a  mummv  and  covered  with 
artificial  cinnabar  and  charcoal  to  arrest  oecay,  lies  the  body 
of  the  9th  shdffun.  The  strangely  contorted  teak  tree  (fharaaSjft^ 
at  the  left  of  the  inclosure  is  said  to  be  150  yrs.  ola  (which  is 
doubtful) ;  to  have  come  originally  from  India,  and  to  have  been 
presented  to  the  shrine  by  a  king  of  Korea.   It  resembles  a 
sycamore,  and  the  profusion  of  white  flowers  (June-July)  are 
not  unlike  those  of  Camellia  japonica.  According  to  Buddhists 
(who  often  mention  the  tree  in  their  sacred  scriptures)  the 
greenish-brown  trunk  of  the  original  tree  (under  whicb  BudcUia 
is  thought  to  have  been  born)  turned  white  when  he  exchanged 
earth  for  nirvana.  —  The  immense  corner-stones  of  the  waD 
supporting  the  terrace  came  from  Osaka.  —  The  tomb  of  the 
7th  shogwif  on  a  similar  terrace  at  the  left,  dates  from  1716, 
when  the  unfortimate  lad  died,  aged  7  vrs.   Leaving  the  in- 
closure by  the  entrance  gate,  we  skirt  the  front  of  the  park  fora 
short  distance,  turn  up  the  lane  (right)  between  the  Main  Oak 
and  the  Goto  Monument^  to 

The  Mausoleum  of  the  6th  (lenohu),  12th  (/ej/osAt),  and 
14th  (lemochi)  Shdguns.  It  is  entered  through  an  inconspicu- 
ous gateway  in  the  plain  side  fence  which  leads  from  the  outer 
street  to  the  custodian's  office  opposite  the  Zdjqji.  One  pene- 
trates directly  to  the  sumptuously  decorated  colonnade  which 
extends  quite  across  the  mclosure  and  is  supported  by  many 
lithe  and  graceful  pillars,  enriched  by  numerous  swingmc 
bronze  lanterns,  and  adorned  by  some  superbly  sculptured  ana 
gilded  panels  through  the  interstices  of  which  pour  streams  d 
yellow  sunlight.  The  general  effect  of  the  cloister  stnmrijr 
recalls  certain  of  those  of  the  Alhambra.  The  motifs  of  UW 
carved  and  polychromatic  groups  set  into  the  pands  of  th0 
closed  side  of  the  structure  are  peacocks,  flowers^  Bhrubbo/t 


L 


8kiba  Mamolea.  TQKYO  10:  Aovfe.    178 

Directi<Hi8  guard  the  Asdna  from  all  «vil'  iii£NieiioeB.-  The 
iaterkur  of  me  apariment  is  a  maie  of  gikUng  andtkhjainting 
flupplemented  by  carved  ■  phosnutes  and  t&e  like.  Fourteen 
years  are  said  to  have  beea  spent  at  work  on  the  building. 

Returning  to  the  main  entrance,  we  proceed  to  the  arcade 
where  many  swinging  bronze  lanterns  (the  ofts  of  daimyds* 
wives)  are  displayed;  the  central  gate  is  the  KaroHmon  (Chin- 
ese Gate) :  the  Buddhist  angel  on  the  ceiling  panel  is  by  Chih' 
anobu;  the  sculptured  wood  panels  of  birds  and  flowa»  are 
badly  weather-beaten,  and  are  inferior  to  certain  of  those  m 
the  other  structures.  The  tall  bronse  lanterns  in  the  indosure 
bey(md  are  a  portion  of  the  212  which  stand  in  the  various 
compounds  of  this  t^nple;  most  of  them  date  from  1716-^1^ 
and  were  gifts  by  daimyda  whose  annual  revenue  exoeedea 
100,000  koku  of  rice.  The  old  gate  at  the  foot  of  the  indoeure 
is  the  Chokugaku^ruhmon  (Imperial  Tablet  Gate),  on  the 
fagade  of  whicn  is  a  tablet  placed  there  by  one  of  the  emperors: 
in  the  court  beyond  are  some  of  the  750  stone  lanterns  presentea 
to  the  shrine  by  cUnmyds  whose  income  ranged  lower  than 
100,000  koku;  the  out^  gate  is  the  Nirten^mon,  or  Gate  of  the 
Two  Deva  I^gs,  b^  whom  it  is  guarded.  The  inner  gate  is  a 
marvel  of  carving,  with  dragons,  birds,  pierced  panels,  and  the 
like.  The  myiiiolomoal  phcenix  is  a  popular  and  frequently 
recurring  subject.  fYom  this  point  the  traveler  gains  a  fairly 
correct  idea  of  what  the  approach  to  the  shrine  must  have 
looked  like  in  the  old  days,  when  glittering  trains  of  daimyda 
approached  it  throu^  the  several  gates  (now  dosed)  and  the 
path  leading  up  through  the  colonnade.  The  splendor  increased 
as  one  neared  the  sacred  reliquary,  and  the  final  outburst  oi 
Oriental  magnificence  was  enou^  to  dazde  the  most  stolid. 

Passing  to  the  rear  of  the  shnne  we  come  to  the  Oskikirir' 
men,  or  Great  Dividing  Gate^  beyond  whidi  only  the  ^idffim 
and  the  abbot  were  allowed  to  go  —  the  dadmyoa  remaining 
in  the  temple  garden  and  worshiping  the  Au^t  Tomb  from 
afar.  Though  now  but  a  shadow  of  its  one-time  richness  the 
structure  is  still  noteworthy,  chiefly  for  the  skillfully  carved  and 
^ded  open-work  panels  in  the  wings.  They  are  the  work  of 
Wakamura  Jzurrd  no  kami;  are  each  fashioned  out  of  a  single 
piece  of  A^eyoA^i-wood;  and  are  so  adroitly  executed  that  the 
running  hirin  show  to  equal  advantage  on  either  ade.  In  the 
sunken  pebbly  court,  which  we  now  cross  under  the  guidance 
of  the  temple  bonze,  are  44  headless  bronze  lantems..the  Aos^u* 
no4ama  which  originally  ornamented  them  having^  been  stolen 
by  some  vandal  during  the  troublous  period  which  immedi- 
ately preceded  and  followed  the  Restoration  —  at  which  epoch 
iconoclasm  was  not  considered  reprehensible  by  certain  mi»- 
gmaded  Japanese.  The  uniform  gray  pebbles  of  the  court  hese 
m  symbolic  of  the  immoderate  extravagance  criF  the  biisa&fl«sc&. 
qi^itiese  magnificent  memorials  to  the  dead  sftdyitns.  ./BQiQiMaBi& 


176    Route  10.  TOKYO  Shiba  MiKumlmi 

2d  panel  at  the  left  of  the  entrance  to  the  ainoma,  with  its 
beautiful  white  Japanese  lilies  (oddly  enoueh  an  unusual  thenie 
with  the  native  workmen),  was  considered  Sv  one  of  theBhdpuns 
so  perfect  that  for  many  years  a  curtain  hid  it  from  the  Boarar 
tion  of  profane  eyes.  The  rusted  hooks  still  show  in  the  wall 
above  it.  There  js  a  delicate  purity  about  the  carving  sogpses- 
tiVe  of  the  best  work  of  Hidari  JingorOj  and  this  is  emphasijKd 
in  the  unvarying  and  natural  trimness  in  the  bodies  of  the  little 
birdS)  which  seem  to  lack  only  the  life  principle  to  start  than 
hopping  from  twig  to  twig.  The  hydrangea,  double  oheny 
blossom,  maple  lesif  Japanese  quince,  bamboo,  peony,  chrys- 
anthemum, and  other  motives,  are  faithfully  portrayed  in  tlM 
different  panels,  all  of  which  deserve  close  inspection. 

The  six  grandiose  wall-panels,  each  4  by  6  ft. ;  each  cut  from 
a  single  camphor-wood  strip,  and  each  with  a  gambolling 
Chinese  lion  on  a  gold  ground,  are  ascribed  to  Yasunobu.  The 
regal  seat  beneath  the  swinging  baldachin  is  that  of  the  abbot. 
The  massive  cross-beam  over  the  entrance  to  the  corridor 
carries   rich   ornamentations   of  gold  on  a  black-lacquered 
grotmd,  with  huge  salient  baku  heads  at  each  end.  llie  general 
decorative  scheme  of  the  room  is  continued  in  the  corridor, 
where  anciently  none  except  the  relatives  of  the  Tokugawa 
family  were  allowed.  The  traveler  who  wishes  to  see  the  inner 
shrine  must  come  armed  with  a  special  permit,  since  the  mor- 
tuary tablet  of  a  princess  of  the  blood  (consort  of  the  14Ui 
shdgun)  is  preserved  here,  and  the  public  is  debarred  from  going 
beyond  the  low  railing  near  the  foot  of  the  steps.  Within  the 
sanctuary  are  three  splendid  and  lovely  shrines,  two-storied 
marvels  of  gold  lacquer  and  delicate  sculpture.  The  reliquary 
of  the  princess  (and  of  the  14th  shdgun)  is  at  the  extreme  left. 
The  purple  altar  frontal,  of  rich  stuff  embellished  with  gold 
chrysanthemum  crests,  was  presented  by  the  late  Ehnperor 
(to  whom  the  princess  was  aunt).  The  middle  shrine  is  that  o( 
the  6th  shdgun f  and  that  at  the  right  of  the  12th.  The  beauti- 
fully carved,  lacquered,  and  gilded  figurines  of  the  Shirtennd 
which  gtiard  the  shrines  are  unusually  graceful  and  pleasing, 
without  the  customary  hideousness  of  face  and  mien. 

But  slightly  less  attractive  than  the  shrines  themselves  are  j  5 
the  superb  gold  lacquered  menses  which  stand  before  them  and 
on  which  repose  the  usual  sacred  offerings.  Note  the  lovely 
little  black  lacquered  incense-burner  adorned  with  small  gO« 
16-petaled  chrysanthemum  crests;  resting  on  a  small  table  with 
similar  decorations,  before  the  altar  of  the  princess.  It  iB 
unusually  dainty,  and  the  black  lacquer,  though  apparently 
ordinary,  is  of  the  richest  and  costliest  kind;  the  crest  denotes 
that  it  is  an  Imperial  gift  (one  of  several  made  on  Sept.  2,  tliB 
anniversary  of  the  princess).  The  interior  of  the  apartineot 
fairly  glows  with  ricnness;  ornate  sculptured  panels  adoni  thj 
walls;  the  beautiful  panels  of  the  coffered  ceiling  are  paisted 


1: 


i: 


8kiba  Mauaolea.  TOEYO  10.  Route.    177 

with  artistic  phcenixed  in  colors  on  a  gold  ground  (like  thode  of 
the  Nijd  Castle  at  Ky5to},  and  the  groups  of  compound  brack- 
ets (which  have  not  been  repainted  since  they  were  placed  in 
position  more  than  200  yrs.  ago)  show  colors  such  as  tibe  old 
European  masters  used  in  their  finest  and  most  endiuing  pic- 
tures. The  long  narrow  gold  panels  at  the  right  and  left  of  the 
richly  carved  doors  of  the  honden,  with  lotus  leaves  and  flow- 
ers, are  graceful  and  charming. 

Some  gnarled  and  stately  pine  trees  rise  above  the  flagged 
walk  leacung  past  the  side  of  the  mausoleum  to  the  tomb.  In 
the  ceiling  panel  of  the  Dividing  Gate  there  is  a  handsome  white 
peacock  worth  looking  at.  The  artistic  bronze  lanterns  of  the 
sunken  court  here  have  retained  their  hoshu-no-tama  tops. 
The  view  across  the  court  to  the  twin  flight  of  (37)  stone  steps 
beyond,  surmounted  by  the  fine  old  Kara-mon  gateway  with 
its  now  ruinous  sculpture,  is  beguiling.  The  Oratory  before 
the  Tomb  of  the  6th  ShOgun  contains  a  coffered  oeiUng 
adorned  with  painted  dragons,  four  big  gold  wall-panels  em- 
bellished with  kiriiiy  and  some  carved  ramma  that  produce  a 
rich  effect.  The  traveler  should  not  miss  seeing  the  tomb, 
embosomed  in  lofty  crymptommas  on  a  terrace  reached  by  19 
steps,  as  the  gateway  is  one  of  the  best  things  in  the  group.  It  is 
a  magnificent  casting  of  solid  bronze,  covered  with  intricate 
sculptiu-es  and  call^  'Korean  bronze  gate'  from  the  belief 
that  the  panels  were  brought  from  Korea  (in  1598)  by  Hide' 
yo8hi*8  soldiers.  No  bronze  panels  of  comparable  magnitude 
are  to  be  found  elsewhere  in  Tokyo,  and  none  of  equal  merit 
were  cast  in  Japan  before  1890.  The  chief  decorative  motives 
are  ascending  and  descending  dragons  (agari-ryUy  and  kvdari* 
ryu)  modeled  in  low  relief;  the  former  rising  from  waves,  the 
latter  emerging  from  clouds.  Their  positions  on  the  inner  side 
of  the  gate  are  reversed.  The  five  crests  on  each  face  of  the 
heavy  swinging  doors  are  in  the  form  of  Paterce.  The  inner 
side  of  the  inclosing  fence  is  sheathed  with  copper-bronze. 
Visitors  must  be  content  with  a  distant  view  of  the  richly 
chased  bronze  tomb  (20  ft.  below  which  the  shogun  lies  buried), 
as  they  are  not  allowed  within  the  inclosure.  Note  the  ciu'ious 
n^etal  locks.  —  Lined  along  this  terrace,  in  separate  inclosures 
each  with  its  respective  oratory  below,  are  3  sets  of  tombs, 
behind  handsomely  carved  gateways  and  within  bronze-roofed 
fences.  That  at  the  right,  of  plain  granite,  beyond  a  red  gate, 
is  of  the  12th  shogun.  The  tomb  of  the  princess,  with  its 
Imperial  chrysanthemum  crests,  is  closed  to  the  public.  — 
Crossing  the  street  and  proceeding  along  the  path  at  the  rear  of 
the  Zojoji,  then  beneath  a  low  gateway,  we  enter  the  com- 
pound described  below. 

The  Reliquary   {Ten-ei-in;  O-Tamaya;  Sogen-dn)  of  the 
ocmsorts  of  the  2d,  5th,  6th,  nth,  and  13th  ShG^unB)  Bt&xi^ 
the  temple  of  the  2d  ahogun,  with  a  scintillating  aodY^eaM- 


178    R(mte  10. 


conducts  the  visitor  along  a  narrow,  winding  passage  to  tbe 
front  porch  of  the  oratory,  or  Hall  of  Worship  {21  ft.  by  42  f[.), 
which  ahowB  its  age  more  than  some  of  the  other  t«mples  on 
account  of  having  been  one  of  the  first  (it  antedates  Iboae  of 
Ntkkf)  by  19  yra.)  mausoieum  of  its  M&d  erected  for  the  Tofai- 
gavxi  family.  Time-resisting  camphor-wood  was  emploj^ 
throughout  in  its  canstriiction,  and  over  muab  of  this  WCK 
placed  48  succesaive  coats  of  thick  btaok  lacquer,  which  pn- 
served  it,  but  which  to-day  imparts  a  decidedly  soiaber  aapeeC 
to  the  interior,  The  haiden  is  further  darkened  by  sudare  M 
placed  as  to  preserve  the  interior  from  the  effect  of  the  too- 
bright  sunlight  and  by  the  broad  overhang  of  the  maflsivefwiit 
Eorch.  The  almost  endlessly  diversified  decorations  on  the 
lack  pilasters  are  attractive,  as  are  also  the  fine  paneb  rf 
the  architrave,  with  their  customary  carvings  of  birds  in  hi^ 
relief.  The  Imperial  chrysanthemum  crest  is  here  more  in  en- 
dence  than  the  trefoil  emblem  of  the  Tnkugawa,  iadioatiiiK 
that  the  tablets  of  personages  of  royal  blood  are  ensfaoned 
within.  The  delicately  and  beautifully  chased  met^  cbapgof 
the  interlacing  strips  on  the  coffered  ceiling  are  said  to' be  of 
gold  plate  on  a  silver  base.  A  splendidly  relucent  croBsbeani 
covered  with  thick  gold  foil  extends  across  the  entrance  to  the 
airurma  and  forms  a  bright  and  gUttering  note  in  the  diuky 
environment.  The  elephant  heads  of  some  of  the  other  tem- 
ples are  replaced  here  by  those  of  minatory  Dogs  of  Fo  wbicb 
seem  to  challenge  one's  right  to  pass  to  the  sacred  preeincU 
beyond.  In  the  oratory  tliere  noay  sometimes  be  seen  a  fine 
maruiara  depicting  numerous  sainU  of  the  Buddhist  pantheon; 
this,  with  a  gold  screen  and  some  bronze  lanterns,  completes 
the  equipment. 

The  decorations  of  the  corridor  (11  by  19  ft.)  are  siDilUrM 
those  of  the  oratory,  and  both  are  on  a  lesser  scale  of  magiu&- 
cenee  than  those  of  the  inner  sanctuary,  which  is  a  blow  (^ 
gold  and  gloiy.  Each  of  the  100  panels  of  the  coffered  ceiliM 
shows  an  artistically  painted  phtenix  in  an  attitude  diff«niiK 
elighdy  from  that  of  its  neighbor  —  the  work  of  Ko"^ 
Tanya,  who  also  did  the  fijie  shiski  wall-panels  at  the  i^t  of 
the  shrines.  His  skill  in  depicting  this  mythological  animal  ~ 
considered  by  the  Japanese  to  be  one  of  the  most  difSeuIl 
subjects  for  a  painter's  brush  —  makea  his  fame  endtuini' 
Albeit  the  gold  has  worn  away  in  places,  the  vigorous  aMJonS 
the  subjects  is  still  apparent,  and  they  rarely  fail  to  ^ciU  tM 
admiration  of  the  bebo\der.  T\ie  ric^iV?  \x«.Wi 'oeKM  *bI  i 
spJendidly  carved  and  deeottilfti  vwA  rimviffto.  *«[2J*  * 
ACCiutiave  are  wortli  aoUB&V  lai^fna*  ^^*  staahi.  >^w»j* 


Shiba  Mauaolea,  TOKYO  10.  RmOe,    179 

Hidari  Jingord)  at  the  capital  of  the  different  gilded  columns. 
The  maze  of  juttinp  beam-ends,  all  brilliantly  decorated;  the 
countless  metal  enrichments  of  the  entablatures;  the  graceful, 
Egyptian-like  drapery  decorations  which  flow  down  them:  the 
subtle  imagery  displayed  in  the  intricate  diaper-work,  and  the 
almost  endless  minor  ornamentation  impart  a  gorgeousness 
which  must  be  seen  to  be  appreciated.  Behind  several  of  the 
reliquaries  are  fine  gold  lacquered  wall-panels  with  paintings 
of  beautiful  lotus-blooms;  the  one  at  the  rear  of  the  shrine  just 
at  the  right  of  the  entrance,  is  75  in.  wide;  80  in.  high;  5  in. 
thick;  is  said  to  be  a  single  piece  of  camphor-wooa,  and  is 
adorned  with  a  great  leaping  shishi  ascribed  to  some  unknown 
painter  of  the  Kand  school.  The  three  almost  equally  superb 
panels  at  the  far  end  of  the  right-hand  passage,  behind  the 
reliquaries,  are  attributed  to  Kand  Yasunobu,  The  splendor 
of  the  profusely  decorated  flying  buttresses  or  tie-beams  above 
the  ambulatory  is  noteworthy. 

The  shrines  themselves,  each  of  which  contains  the  posthu- 
mous names  (inscribed  on  a  tablet  of  bronze)  of  those  to  whom 
they  are  dedicated,  are  exquisite  specimens  of  the  finest  work 
of  the  incomparable  lacquerers  of  Old  Japan  —  structures  that 
bear  a  stronger  resemblance  to  jewelry  than  to  aught  else,  and 
which  rank  among  the  most  perfect  extant.  Their  dainty  and 
refined  beauty  is  enhanced  by  their  rich  and  glowing  setting. 
Each  stands  on  a  species  of  dais  above  which  rises  a  splendid 
baldachin-like  roof  upheld  by  ten  S3anmetrical  and  glowing 
columns,  every  millimeter  of  whose  surface  is  thickly  plated 
with  shining  gold  over  red  lacquer.  Artistic  brass  lanterns 
6wing  before  the  shrines,  one  of  which  has  been  placed  at  the 
end  of  the  ambulatory  oecause  it  contains  the  tablets  of  the 
favorite  concubines  of  the  5th  and  7th  shoguns.  —  Certain  of 
the  interesting  minor  architectural  details  of  the  temple  can  be 
studied  to  advantage  from  the  encircling  porch;  the  great 
curved  beams  decorated  in  still  lively  colors;  the  brown  nbs  of 
the  roof  all  sheathed  with  metal  caps  adorned  with  Tokugavm 
crests  and  intricate  tracery;  the  rich  gold  foil  on  the  surface 
between  them;  the  windows  which  resemble  inverted  bells  and 
are  often  employed  in  domestic  architecture^  are  all  interesting. 
Upon  leaving  the  sanctuary,  note  the  quamt  old  flat  bronze 
gong  hanging  against  the  right  wall.  The  ornaments  and 
relics  contained  in  the  wall-cases  ranged  along  the  passage 
from  the  shrine  to  the  custodian's  quarters,  are  the  belongings 
of  the  defunct  ladies  —  most  of  whom  are  buried  in  Uyeno 
Park. 

The  Mausoleum  of  the  3d  Sh5|^  (Hidetada)  is  adjacent 
(S.)  to  the  Ten-ei-4n.  The  custodian's  office  stands  between 
the  two,  at  the  top  of  a  short  flagged  walk,  just  within  the 
^closure  at  the  right.  As  it  is  the  mc^t  profusely  decoia^A^.oV 
ill  the  temples  and  shrines  of  the  Shlba  group,  it  is  gieaeKsW^ 


^ 


180    Route  10.  TOKYO 

the  moat  admired.   Despite  its  Bonewhat  gaud^ 

ranka  as  one  of  the  well-nigli  prieeless  relics  of  a  penod  * 

ecolesiology  was  inaeparably  linked  with  the  unique  art  of  the 
Hermit  Nation;  demonology  waa  oftentimes  uppermost  in  the 
mindsofthe  people;  and  their  tutelara  took  the  form  of  snarliBg 
dragons,  impoaaible  lions,  and  a  host  of  mytholorieal  aniraala 
grafted  upon  eager  misdB  by  the  Chinese  Buddhiste  who  a 
thousand  yeara  before  had  taken  them  under  their  medivval 
tutelage.  The  created  reptiles  whioh  with  fiery  eyes,  rending 
daws,  and  watchful  malice,  guard  the  entrance  to  the  tempts; 
the  surly,  spiteful  ahiski  which  adorn  the  wonderful  gola 
lacquered  panela  of  the  inner  sanctuary,  and  the  other  enublpraB 
which  the  traveler  may  note,  arc  merely  fanciful  symbols  of  a 
religion  as  mild  in  its  way  as  that  often  represented  h_y  pictures 
of  saintly  men  writhing  under  cruel  tortures;  horrif  j^ue  roods; 
sanguinary  figures  of  a  gentle  Christ  suffering  physic^  agony 
and  mental  anguish  on  a  blood-stained  cross;  and  of  refined 
women  stretchral  on  the  rack  of  the  Inquisition.  The  wonder- 
ful art  which  finds  physical  expression  here  proves  beyond  oil 
peradventure  that  so-called  paganism  need  not  neeeasarily  be 
confounded  with  barbarism. 

IF  Ehi-  cnvnlflr  finda  »njun  of  the  iotertor  udonnieot  a  bit  loo  vItM  to 
rflfneiabflr  thatin  cho  old  dayif  the  fondneea  for 
lortatlon)  wae  ea  dpeply  insrained  in  tlw  tphih 
juriHHtoi  uF  decoratjon,  the  coBtliest  mftt<Tfia1l 

.    mployed,  whether  ntnnt  they  wore  slwayB  lla 

_]oat  suitable.  The  people  were,  an  a  rule,  tmpimed  in  prt^ortioD  10  tb* 
eitravHCBnoe  diaployed.  In  the  mechanical  arts  the  simplest  effeots  ue 
'oHentimei  the  moat  difflcult  to  obtain;  eertsia  Df  IhsKlowy  blaok  iBuquel* 
snooo^dersbly  uiorecipBDdvetiwn  oChera  oF  rich  and  elewin'  tints.  ii4iile 
f  lliB  Gne«  and 

I  jHttan. and wa _r ,.., 

I  iDo  pleaauiv  in  tiie  praeliae  of  thesft  littlf 

J  bte to  tba  unlnilialcd  only  after cslcfleeciuuuj.    tun  ucLruivuvuv  um»  -tuu^ 

f  snueHt  that  the  Tiurpon  of  thebuilder  must  have  been  to  aurpBAaerery- 

I   itmti  nf  the  kind  previomly  done  ia  Yedo,  and  to  spare  neither  paiDP  nor 

Bipen»  Id  doing  it.  Nu  reeorda  eiist  of  tbe  coet.  whiab  would  be  diffieuH 

to4»Umat«aonflidorine  that  ip  the  I7tb  cent,  moJUty  wns  perhaps  a  hundred 

'"uea  mora  v^u&ble  liian  it  ia  to-day. 

The  mausoleum  is  seen  at  the  left  as  we  approach  the  office. 


ineftt  and  moat  highlypriied  ecdd  laequeranot  unfrequerLtiy  loi^  ^uip 
le  onpraetieed  eye.   For  mftny  year*  common  iron  waa  in^xirXiA  fnlo 


11 
ex 
I 
I 
T 
a 
". 
I ____ 
protrude  at  every  angle  in  the  guiae  of  corbels;  and  the  wealth 
of  fine  gold;  the  astonishing  medley  of  bright  colors;  the  mid 
richness  and  barbaric  splendor,  make  the  structure  one  of 
■!  unequalled  Oriental  attiactwenesa.  —  From  the  priests"  ai»rt> 
ment  we  enter  a  connectinft  \iti\'WB.'?  "w'^c'ti  ^jetTOmMst 'a  fc 
sfiort  flight  of  black  lacquctteA  BtcpB\ew&a¥.Wi  ^'ft'^'^*^'?*^^*"- 


.  _esplendent  monatera  and  the  n 
3,  clustering  below  the  massive 
,  overhanpng  roof,  . '■■" 


ShOM  Mauaolea.  TOEYO  W.  BouU.    181 

conyT  The  Ora^tory,  20  ft.  long  by  40  ft.  wide,  is  entered  from 
the  side.  The  central  cdumns,  the  pilasters,  and  the  floor 
boieath  the  mats  are  covered  with  48  coats  of  brilliant  black 
lacquer  which  struggle  with  the  lush  colors  of  the  interior  to 
impart  a  sombemess  to  it.  The  pierced  panels  of  the  architrave 
are  intricately  carved  with  peacocJcs  and  phcenixes  in  lugh 
relief,  and  the  delicate  polychromatic  diaper-work  under  the  low 
ceiling  suggests  that  of  an  Egyptian  tomb.  The  cofifered  ceil- 
ing here  dmers  from  that  of  Su  the  other  temples  in  the  Shiba 
^oup  in  that  the  sunken  panels  between  the  metal-adorned^ 
interlacing  strips,  are  of  clbisonn^  and  tortoise-shell  work;  less 
beautiful  and  imposing  than  those  of  the  other  buildings,  but 
perhaps  more  costly.  The  sliding  wall  panels  with  their  funereal 
slats  are  of  heavily  lacquered  camphor-wood.  The  floor  of  the 
ainoma  (12  by  30  ft.)  is  covered  with  many  coats  of  rich  Indian 
red  lacquer.  The  highly  polished  black  lacquered  doors  (51  in. 
wide  by  82  high)  are  saia  to  be  single  pieces  of  camphor-wood. 
The  sculptured  and  gilded  group  of  squirrels,  grapes,  and  bam- 
boos immediately  above  the  entrance,  is  worth  looking  at;  as  well 
as  the  complicated  maze  of  beams  and  rafter-ends  just  above  it. 
No  single  room  in  the  Shiba  group  is  so  richly  decorated  as 
the  inner  sanctuary,  admittance  to  which  is  gained  through 
massive  metal-encrusted  doors  swung  on  huge  i»vots  let  into 
soffits  above  and  below.  The  reckless  splendor  of  the  displav 
is  astounding.  Ten  huge,  symmetrical,  metal-sheathed  col- 
umns, like  shafts  of  solid  gleaming  gold,  rise  from  three  sides 
of  a  central  or  inner  dais  (27  by  29  ft.)  which  is  delimned  by 
a  black  lacquered  strip  separating  it  from  the  outer  aisle  or 
ambulatory.  From  the  inner  side,  two  larger  ones,  30  ft.  high 
and  32  in.  in  diameter,  called  respectively  Udaijin  ('Minister 
of  the  Right')  and  Sadaijin  C  Minister  of  the  Left'),  spring 
up  at  the  right  and  left  of  the  wide  table  on  which  the  shrine 
stands.  Each  is  said  to  have  been  hewn  from  a  single  keyaki 
trunk,  and  both  rank  among  the  largest  in  Japan.  The  custom 
of  first  wrapping  these  immense  timbers  with  a  sort  of  buck- 
ram to  prevent  the  outer  coating  of  gold  foil  flaking  ofif  through 
climatic  influences  at  work  in  the  wood,  can  be  studied  to 
advantage  on  certain  of  them,  as  the  weight  of  the  275  or  more 
years  that  rest  upon  them  have  slightly  marred  them.  In  the 
center  of  the  canopy-like  ceiling  held  up  by  these  wonderful 
glittering  columns,  on  a  huge  latescent  gold  disk,  is  a  great 
gleaming-eyed,  minatory  dragon,  the  work  of  Kand  Doshun 
(1747-97).  An  almost  endless  maze  of  criss-crossing,  inter- 
secting beams,  brackets,  cornices,  and  sculptiu*ed  dragon-heads 
T)aiiited  in  the  brightest  colors  ot  the  spectrum,  are  discernible 
an  the  dusky  heights.  Prom  the  lower  and  more  ponderous 
cross-beams  to  the  floor,  every  available  foot  of  the  shimmer- 
ing walls  carry  some  sort  of  glowing  decoration  —  intncsA^^ 
arabesques,  key-pattern  courses,  complicated  frets,  or  cxcsE^ 


■a82    Route  10. 


TOKYO 


I  and  eymSoIs.    Tlic  rectangular  carved   and   pierced  i 
fricEeaof  the  entabtatiirn,  each  formed  of  a  single  longitudiul  I- 
atrip  of  camphor-wood,  and  called  aukaskibori,  from  the  open 
character  of  the  work,  are  10  ft.  or  more  in  length,  and  are 
extraordinarily  effective.    Bo   wonderful   are   the   Honlptuied 

tphcenixes  gliatening  in  all  the  iridescence  of  natural  color,  tlut 
they  seem  ready  to  fly  down  from  their  perches  amid  the  «eds 
and  waves  and  clouda.  The  decorations  of  the  Buprastructurp 
blend  perfectly  and  harmoniously  with  those  below,  the  light 
here  being  tempered  by  the  ahadowB  above.  Gorgmiulj^ 
painted  drapery  {an  idea  probably  borrowed  from  wm — 
tapeatries)  that  recalls  in  its  opulence  the  original  cloth  of  0) 
sweeps  downward  in  graceful  folda  to  envelop  the  uppw  luh. 
of  the  columns,  and  simulates  the  soft  curtjtins  ei^olding  dl 
couch  of  the  sleeping  thdgun. 

Many  superb  gold-plashed  wall-paaels  of  camphor-vn 
take  the  place  of  wainscoting,  and  most  of  them  carry  foliit 
lotuses  iu  their  natural  colors.  The  immense  wall-pand  atdj 
back  of  the  shrine  dais,  with  two  angels  of  the  Buc' " '' 
paradise  hovering  in  mid-mr  above  a  wide  lotus  pool  cl 
with  flowers,  is  by  KanO  Ddun  (1625-IM).  The  battered  m 
drum  in  one  comer  of  the  side  aisle  differs  somewhat  in  fa 
from  the  usual  Japanese  drum,  and  is  said  to  be  of  K 
origin.  The  Tohu^wa  ahOgun.,  leyasu,  is  believed  to  haveM 
it  at  the  sanguinary  battle  of  Sekigahara  (in  1600). 
reliquary  which  contains  the  mortuary  tablet  of  the  f 
HidetmLa  la  a  magnificent  apefumen  of  gold-lacouer  embelha  ..■ 
vrith  chased  metal  ornaments,  on  a  special  platform  reached  h^ 
flights  of  black  lacquered  steps  and  adorned  wiUi  W 
carvings  in  baa-relief  by  Hidari  JingoTo.  Certain  of  the  m 
clasps  are  rare  specimens  of  cloisonnS  work  mode  when  ll 
tt  in  Japan  was  in  its  infancy.  The  long  and  narrow  rt 
icquered  tables  which  stand  before  it  are  superb  worits  ■■ 
Xt\  the  ornamental  bronze  flambeaux  upon  them  arevoith 
jiokingat.  The  tall  bronze  crane  standing  on  a  tortoiae'shaofa  J 
md  the  fatrpaunched  akishi  in  the  form  of  an  inoens&4)Un 
■ae  Bsid  to  have  been  brought  from  China  by  o 
Minamoto  Clan  upward  of  a  millennium  ago.  The  n 
vases  near  the  base  of  the  Prime  Minister's  pillare  eonw 
68  metal  peonies  symbolic  of  68  early  provinces  of  the  ^W^ 
"Hiey  were  given  to  the  shrine  by  the  llthsAo(7un,onthel3f" 
anniversary  of  the  death  of  the  2d  ahdgun.  The  matdl 
stands  are  beautiful  and  perhaps  unique  roe 
didly  embossed  taka-makiye  gold  lacquer;  the 
character  of  the  6ne  tracery  (si  milar  to  the  beet  niello]  m 
Tokugawa  crests,  rank  them  among  the  richest  spM 
^^xtonC  of  this  antique  woi'k.  T^ie  aweetW  teaonant  Kffltag 
Htbe  fine  old  bronze  gong  near  tbe  ftTiWs.iwe\i».\B\w^ttaH*| 
^W  a  generous  admixture  ol  6,o\d  ^Ui  ftic  cov\i«- 


ThePdffoda.  TOKYO  10.  Route.    183 

On  leaving  the  mausoleum  the  traveler  is  given  a  ticket 
(free)  to  the  Octanmal  Hall  (Hakkakurdd)  which  enshrines 
the  tomb  of  the  2d  shdgun  md  stands  on  the  hiUslope  a  few 
hundred  yards  to  the  8.   We  cross  the  yard  in  front  of  the 
temple  (note  the  big  stone  lavers  in  the  yard),  mount  a  succes- 
sion of  stone  steps,  and  follow  the  flagged  sunken  way  —  a  sort 
of  open  subway  —  between  stone  walls  overshadowed  by  lofty 
(ayptomerias.  The  red  gate  at  the  left,  within  the  iron  fence, 
was  the  one-time  main  gate  to  the  tomb.  In  front  of  the  latter 
18  the  uninteresting  Oratory,  and  in  the  comer  of  the  yard,  at 
the  right,  is  a  monstrosity  in  the  shape  oi  a  hinoki  tree  grafted 
into  a  camellia  —  one  of  those  unhappy  perversions  of  nature 
of  which  the  Japanese  seem  curiously  fond.    Near  it  is  an 
orange  tree  whose  fruit,  when  broken  from  the  stem,  is  said  to 
exhibit  a  figure  like  the  Tokugawa  crest!  An  octagonal  stone 
fence   incloses   the   gloomy   structure   which   shelters   the 
ShCgun's  Tomb,  wmch  in  turn  is  shaped  like  a  hdio,  or 
Buddhist  pagoda,  and  is  mounted  on  a  tall  granite  base  in  the 
form  of  a  lotus.  Conventional  lions  and  peonies  (the  king  of 
beasts  and  of  flowers)  form  conspicuous  decorative  figures 
among  the  intricate  maze  of  enamel  and  crystal  inlay.   The 
scenes  on  the  upper  half  represent  the  'Eight  Views  '  of  iStoo-' 
Siang  (China)  and  similar  one  of  Lake  Biwa.   Within  is  a 
carved  wood  image  of  the  shogun  (who  is  buried  20  ft.  beneath 
the  base)  and  a  bronze  tablet  with  his  posthumous  title  — 
Taitokw4n  (* Great  Virtuous  Retired  Chief').  Eight  upright 
pillars  sheathed  with  (sometime)  gilded  copper-bronze  plates 
support  the  roof;  the  maze  of  decorated  panels  and  gold-lacquer 
of  the  interior  is  now  badly  time  worn.  Visitors  are  generally 
barred  from  entering,  but  a  small  fee  will  secure  the  privilege 
of  a  closer  inspection.  At  the  right  of  the  entrance  are  two  curi- 
ously carved  stones,  one  (the  work  of  Yoshioka  BttzenosvMt 
in  1645)  representing  Shaka's  death  and  his  entry  into  nirvana;* 
the  other,  portra3dng  25  bosatsu  advancing  to  welcome  him. 

The  Pagoda  (p.  clxxxiii),  which  stands  near  the  summit  of 
Maruyama  Hill,  is  weatJier-beaten,  dilapidated,  and  not  worth 
looking  at.  Near  it  are  some  popular  tea-houses  embowered  in 
lovely  cherry  trees,  and  a  handsome  green  bronze  shaft  erected 
in  1890  to  commemorate  the  life-work  of  Ino  Tadayoshij  a 
celebrated  historian  and  cartographer  (1745-1821),  who  died 
after  completing  the  first  comprehensive  map  of  Japan.  The 
mound  on  which  the  monument  stands  is  believed  to  be  an 
artificial  tumulus  (tsuka)  of  the  gourd-shaped  kind  used  for 
imperial  interments  over  a  thousand  years  ago:  there  are  two 
smaller  tumuli  close  by.  Princes  of  a  family  which  reigned  in 
Japan  in  very  early  times  are  thought  to  be  buried  here.  The 
bronze  statue  (cast  in  the  Military  Arsenal  in  Koishikawa, 
and  unveiled  April  19, 1913)  of  Count  Taisuke  Itagaki  (io^mdet 


184    BouU  10.  TOKYO         Ankoku^-dm  Ttimpk 

of  the  Liberal  Party)  cost  ¥71,000  and  was  erected  in  honor  of 
the  statesman  responsible  for  the  introduction  of  ocmstitii- 
tional  government  in  Japan.  —  From  the  hilltop,  whioh  is  a 
favorite  resort,  a  fine  view  is  had  of  the  sea  and  the  S.  aectum 
of  the  city  along  the  shore. 

Descending  the  Maruyama  by  a  winding  path  on  the  £.  aide, 
we  soon  come  to  the  Ankoku-den  Temple,  known  also  as 
TdshdgUy  because  leyasu,  the  1st  Tokugavxi  shoguny  is  wor- 
shiped here  under  that  (posthumous)  title.  On  the  17tb-18th 
of  each  month  a  gay  and  picturesque  festival  is  held  here  in  his 
honor,  and  bizarre  theatricals  and  dancing  with  nuute  are 
performed.  The  temple  dates  from  about  1620,  and  though 
ostensibly  Buddhistic,  Shinto  supremacy  is  indicated  by  the 
mirrors,  the  gohei,  and,  the  two  wolf-like  Korean  lions  which 
guard  the  entrance.  In  the  front  yard,  near  the  entrance  to 
the  custodian's  office  (20-8en  fee),  are  two  tall  icho  trees  said 
to  have  been  planted  by  lemitsu  (3d  shogun)  about  1650.  The 
cherry  trees  here  are  lovely  in  early  April.  Outwardly  the 
temple  is  ornate  and  similar  in  design  to  others  in  the  Shiba 
group,  with  malicious  red-throated  dragons,  snarling  lions  and 
other  fictitious  beasts  glaring  out  from  the  eaves.  We  enter 
*the  shrine  by  a  long  passage  connected  with  the  oflBce;  Uie 
most  revered  object  in  the  sanctuary  is  a  carved  and  seated 
wood  image  of  leyasu  made  when  he  was  61  yrs.  old;  an 
antependium  conceals  it,  but  a  request  to  see  it  will  generally 
obtain  the  privilege.  The  shrine  is  about  4  ft.  high  with  diajxy- 
rate  cornices  and  brackets  and  with  walls  of  beautiful  gold 
lacquer  covered  with  designs  in  low  relief;  8  small  landscape 
views  supplemented  by  dragons  and  cloud  effects  adorn  the 
door  panels,  and  bamboos  and  pines  ornament  the  sides.  At 
either  side  of  the  altar  are  standing  screens  on  the  top  rails  of 
which  perch  sculptured  wood  hawks  in  the  form  of  incense 
burners;  the  one  at  the  left  formerly  contained  a  silver  recep- 
tacle (whjch  has  been  stolen).  The  fragrant  resin  em^doyed 
for  incense  is  from  the  precious  aloe  ( Kyara,  —  AguUaria 
Agallocha)  which  grows  in  the  mountainous  regions  of  Cochin- 
China  and  Assam.  The  great  shogun^s  fondness  for  faloonrv 
is  shown  by  the  six  wall-panels  of  gold-lacquer,  on  cached  whicn 
is  a  painted  hawk  the  original  of  which  was  owned  by  him: 
the  work  is  attributed  to  lemitsu,  and  it  is  considered  so  pre- 
cious that  curtains  usually  hide  it  from  the  pubUc  gaie. 
Hanging  against  one  wall  is  a  kakemono  portraying  leyasu 
(center),  Minamoto  Yoritomo  (right),  and  Toyotomi^RdefMski, 
all  great  rulers  of  Old  Japan.  The  panels  at  the  rear  of  the  shrine 
show  imaginary  birds  of  paradise  (gokuraku-jodo),  the  work  of 
some  unknown  artist  of  the  Kano  school.  Particularly  valu- 
able to  the  Japanese  is  the  painting  representing  Shako, 
Monju,  and  Fugen,  (perhaps)  bv  Kano  Ma«ano5u  (1452^-M). 
It  IB  noteworthy  because  the  slanting  eyes  look  in  all  direo- 


Keio  UnwerHty.  TOKYO  tO.  RmOL    185 

tioos,  from  which  drcumBtance  it  is  called  Juipp^-niramiai 
(eyes  that  look  in  8  directions).  In  the  two  rea-lacquered 
cases  at  the  sides  of  the  shrine  are  100  little  stands  on  whidi 
are  piled,  on  festival  days,  the  100  different  non-flesh  foods 
that  the  gods  delight  in.  The  bows  and  arrows  (from  the 
daimyo  of  Echizen  Aovince)  in  the  stands  before  the  shrine  are 
replicas  of  the  weapons  used  by  the  great  leyasu  in  his  many 
battles;  the  metal  vases  (about  250  jn^.  old)  with  their  decora- 
tions of  pure  silver,  are  gifts  from  the  daimyd  of  Owari  Province. 

The  Benten  Shrine  5  min.  walk  from  the  TdshdgH.  round 
the  base  of  Maruyamay  is  prettily  located  on  a  tiny  islet  in  a 
lotus-pond  (lovely  in  August)  spanned  by  a  brid^  called  Fvyd 
(hibiscus).  The  wistaria  arbor  facing  the  shnne  is  charm- 
ing in  May. 

A  short  distance  N.  of  Shiba  Park  (PI.  D,  6)  stands  a  conical 
hill  called  (after  Mt.  Atago,  at  KyOto)  Atago-tama  sur- 
mounted by  a  shrine  (Atago-jinja)  aedicated  to  Homusvbi- 
no-Mikoto  (last  child  of  Izanagi  and  Izanami)^  the  god  supposed 
to  protect  towns  against  nre.  From  the  adjacent  tower 
{Atago-to)  a  far-reaching  view  of  T6ky6,  the  sea,  the  matchless 
cone  of  Fujisanf  the  Hakone  Ranee  and  a  number  of  lesser 
mts.  may  be  had.  We  approach  the  hill  from  Atago-maddf 
which  skirts  its  E.  base.  The  most  difficult  ascent  is  by  the 
men's  stairs  (otoko-zaka),  an  almost  perpendicular  flight  of 
86  stone  steps,  with  a  heavy  ch£un  in  the  middle,  from  top  to 
bottom,  to  aid  in  the  toilsome  ascent.  The  near-by  women's 
stairs  (onna'Zaka)y  with  108  steps  and  5  landings,  are  easier 
and  more  circuitous.  A  3d  ascent,  considerably  to  the  right 
of  both,  called  skin-zakay  or  *  new  road,'  is  easier  still.  Many 
Japanese  seek  the  spot  in  April  when  the  cherry  trees  are  in 
bloom,  and  also  on  New  Year's  Day,  to  get  the  first  view  of 
Fuji.  The  credulous  believe  that  on  a  certain  night  in  July, 
when  the  moon  wanes,  3  distinct  rays  of  light  can  be  seen 
emanating  from  it  at  the  moment  of  rising  from  the  sea. 
Great  good  luck  is  supposed  to  abide  with  the  wight  fortunate 
enough  to  see  them.  The  small  Tokyo  Hotel  (native  manage- 
ment) stands  near  the  tower. 

The  Keio  University,  known  locally  as  the  Keiogijuku  (Keio 
Free  School),  on  Mita  Heights,  a  short  distance  S.W.  of  Shiba 
Park,  in  Shiba-ku  (PI.  C.  7),  was  founded  in  the  Keio  Era 
(1865-67)  by  a  famous  eaucator,  Yukichi  Fukuzawa^  —  fre- 
quently referred  to  as  the  *Sage  of  Mitla.'  The  original  pur- 
pose of  the  school  (which  was  first  established  in  the  compound 
of  the  Okudaira  mansion,  in  1858)  was  to  teach  the  Dutch 
language  to  young  men  of  the  Okudaira  Clan;  but  two  years 
later  English  was  substituted  for  Dutch.  When  in  1868  the 
fl*ounds  of  the  Okudaira  mansion  became  a  part  of  the  Fordgn 
Concession,  the  school  was  removed  to  /S^Tt-senta,  and  \&\/&t 
(1871)  to  its  present  site.  The  institution  is  a^  to  Haivaid. 


186    BmUe  10.  TOKYO  Thei^BmdiL 

University  in  that  it  is  endowed  privately  and  owes  ndtfaer 
its  existence  nor  its  maintenance  to  Gov't.  The  Publio  Speak- 
ing Hall,  which  was  completed  and  dedicated  in  187^  was 
the  first  in  Japan  to  be  used  for  this  purpose.  The  ssmodid 
new  (red  brick  and  granite)  library  building  (open  to  the 
public)  in  the  Gothic  style  of  architecture,  completed  in  1912 
at  a  cost  of  360,000  yen,  contains  upward  ol  50^000  raze 
books  in  English,  (jerman,  French,  Chinese,  etc.  It  stands 
on  a  commanding  elevation  whence  one  may  enjoy  a  ranaric- 
able  panorama  of  Toky5  city,  the  bay,  Shiba  Park,  sad  en- 
virons. Beside  the  usual  equipment  of  a  first-class  modem 
university  there  is  a  Ju-jutsu  School,  one  for  Physical  CHil- 
ture,  etc.  There  are  about  5000  students  and  a  faculty  of 
about  200  —  chiefly  trained  abroad.  During  the  50  yrs.  or 
more  of  its  existence  the  institution  has  sent  forth  about  4000 
men,  a  number  of  whom  have  become  leaders  in  their  respec- 
tive fields  of  activity.  The  university  confers  4  degrees: 
Bachelor  of  Political  Science  (Seiji  Gakvshi) ;  B.  of  ESconomic 
Science  (Rizai  Gakushi))  B.  of  Laws  {HorUau  Qidemtihi)\ 
and  B.  of  Arts  {Bun  Gahushi),  The  annual  tuition  fees,  in- 
cluding room,  board,  and  other  expenses,  amount  to  approx- 
imately i^27. 

The  Tombs  of  the  For^-Seven  Ronin  (Shv-rO^hkhi-M^  are 
in  the  grounds  of  a  small  and  uninteresting  Buddhist  temple 
known  as  Takanawa  Sengaku-ji,  about  1  M.  S.  of  Shiba  Park 
(PI.  A-B,  7)  and  i  M.  N.  of  Shinagawa,  near  Kuruma-ch5,  in 
Slubarku.  Travelers  approaching  Tokyo  from  Yokohama  can 
alight  at  Shinagawa,  board  a  tram-car  proceeding  N.  alons 
Kuruma-cho  and  its  prolongations  (to  Ginza),  and  descend 
(in  5  min.)  at  a  point  2  min.  walk  (left)  from  the  temple;  or  it 
can  be  reached  on  foot  in  15  min.  —  J  hr.  is  sufficient  to  inspect 
the  place,  which  is  of  no  great  interest  to  foreigners.  The 
anniversary  of  the  death  of  the  Roniriy  who  (early  in  the  18th 
cent.)  conunitted  harakiri  (p.  clxx)  after  having  revmged  an 
insult  to  their  feudal  lord  (Asano  Takumi  no  Kami,  of  Ako, 
Harima  Province)  j  is  celebrated  every  year  from  April  6  to 
May  5,  at  which  time  the  place  is  often  thronged.  The  shops 
flanking  the  approach  are  devoted  to  the  sale  of  liirid  chromes 
setting  forth  the  carefully  planned  assault,  and  of  novds  and 
what-not  relating  to  the  occurrence.  The  curious  old  cart 
(niguruma)  inside  the  gate  at  the  left,  has  ponderous  wheels 
studded  with  iron,  and  iron  tires  an  inch  thick  —  a  relic  of 
early  times.  The  war-trophies  sitting  about  the  yard  are 
renunders  of  the  late  unpleasantness  with  the  MusooviteB. 
The  gray  building  at  the  left,  embowered  in  pine  trees,  is  the 
Kanranjo,  behind  which  stands  the  tombs  (path  at  the  left) 
and  in  which  are  enshrined  (small  fee)  numerous  bits  of  dotlh 
ing^  sculptured  wood  figures,  etc.,  of  the  vaUant  worthies.  Tbd 
weu  where  they  washed  the  head  of  Kira  Kotsuke  no  Sykt, 


The  Heuoinja.  at>EYO  10.  Route.    187 

before  pladng  it  on  the  tomb  of  their  dead  master,  is  at  the 
right  of  the  path.  A  small  offering  is  usually  handed  to  the 
caretaker  at  the  turnstile  on  entering  the  inclosure.  The  tombs 
are  beyond,  in  a  plot  (right)  girdled  by  a  stone  fence  and  over- 
hung with  tall  pines.  That  of  the  chief  ronirif  Oishi  Kuranosuke, 
is  in  the  comer  at  the  right,  within  a  latticed  shrine;  the  tomb 
of  his  master  is  hsird  by,  on  the  other  side  of  the  fence.  In  a 
similar  shrine,  in  the  opposite  comer,  is  the  grave  of  Oishi^a 
son,  Chikara.  The  tablets  on  all  refer  to  the  exploits  of  the 
men.  Incense  bums  incessantly,  and  many  sentimental  per- 
sons leave  visiting-cards  on  the  ^aves  —  which  are  chosen 
spots  for  those  who  wish  to  commit  suicide.  The  story  of  the 
47  ronin  is  told  in  Milord's  Tales  of  Old  Japan  (New  York, 
1803). 

The  ♦Hei-jinja,  a  Shintd  shrine  (Pl.E,  5)  often  referred  to  as 
SannOf  in  Hoshigaoka  Park,  in  one  of  the  most  select  districts 
(Nagata-cho)  in  the  capital  (known  locally  as  Daimyd  Kdji,  or 
'Noble's  Quarter'),  is  in  K6jimachi-ku  (from  which  circum- 
stance the  park  is  cialled  Kojimachi  Park)  about  1  M.  back  of 
the  Foreign  Oflfice.  While  the  annual  festival  (Sept.)  ranks 
with  the  most  important  in  the  city  (the  shrine  receiving  the 
Imperial  patronage  and  being  dedicated  to  the  Imperial 
ancestors),  it  is  of  less  interest  to  strangers  than  the  splendid 
display  of  cherry  blooms,  which  attracts  thousands  in  April. 
The  narrow  sloping  lane  overhung  with  these  splendid  trees 
flanks  the  Chinese  Legation  on  the  N.  (rigjit),  and  is  seen  to 
the  best  advantage  from  a  point  near-the  foot.  On  a  faultless 
spring  day  when  the  buds  have  burst  into  flowers  and  a  gay 
and  colorful  procession  of  brightly  clad  maids  and  matrons 
trip  blithely  beneath  the  lovely  canopy,  the  scene  is  unusually 
pretty  and  appealing.  The  sanctity  of  the  spot  usually  pre- 
cludes the  tipsy  manoeuvres  of  the  rattle-pated  wights  who 
not  unfrequently  spoil  one's  enjoyment  of  the  cherry  display 
at  Mukojima,  and  to  many  the  ensemble  is  far  more  pleasing. 
lYom  the  foot  of  the  slope  the  road  loops  the  hill  as  if  a  lariat 
were  thrown  round  it;  a  tiny  lakelet  with  carp  and  fluffy-tailed 
goldfish  nestles  in  a  dimple  at  the  base,  while  to  the  right  is  a 
stone  slab  commemorating  the  brave  men  who  died  on  sea  and 
land  during  the  Japan-Russia  War.  The  maple  trees  on  the 
face  of  the  hill  present  an  inspiring  sight  in  the  fall. 

The  52  steps  leading  up  to  the  shrine  are  at  the  left;  men 
usually  mount  those  of  the  otoko-zaka^  while  the  women  seek 
the  easier  onnor-zakay  a  little  farther  beyond.  A  huge  torn 
marks  the  foot  of  the  incline,  and  here  and  there  are  graceful 
pines  and  some  splendid  cryptomerias;  the  two  seated  wood 
figures  in  the  clipped  loggias  at  the  right  and  left  of  the  great 
red  gateway  are  the  Imperial  guards  (zuijin),  whidb  are  to 
Shintd  shrines  what  the  Nio  are  to  Buddhist  templeB.  TVi^ 
host  of  spit-balls,  or  tiny  wads  of  paper  adhering  to  tibfisia  «c^ 


\ 


nnta 


■18S     Botile  to.  TOKYO 

prayers  that  have  been  popped  in  by  some  creduloua  (rf 

perchance  raacaUy)  devotee  seeking  pardon  for  some  offeM*  I 
eommitted,  or  praying  far  the  furtherance  of  Bome  peiaoiuJ 
aim.  The  funny  little  atone  monkeya  which  squat  demurely 
ID  the  cages  at  the  rear,  enveloped  in  baby-clotfaea  and  puntM 
in  comic  colors,  are  BuppoHed  to  be  the  Bervouts  of  Hei  ('a 
warrior '},  and  are  eonfrhvi  of  the  many  which  figure  on  ine 
altar,  the  screens  and  other  fitmenta  of  the  shrino.  The  old 
wheeled  cannon  between  the  tvo  gates  is  a  Russian  war-pme. 
Black  is  the  dominant  note  of  the  interior,  the  wood-carving  j, 
of  which  are  very  old  —  and  worthless.  The  edifice  is  saidto 
dat«  from  1654,  and  it  was  long  the  chief  tutelary  riiruwji 
Yedo  of  the  Tokugawa  Regents.  The  Imperial  crest  is  hunT 
in  evidence.  In  the  yard  is  a  small  laurel  (signboard)  plantM 
hy  AdmiTal  Togo  to  commemorate  the  victory  of  his  fieEit  over 
the  Baltic  squadron  in  1905.  The  hilltop  has  the  reputalloii  a( 
being  cool  in  summer,  and  many  are  attracted  hither;  from  the 
tea-houses  which  flank  the  inclosure  finevietrs  are  obU'  " 
The  Iloahigooka-chnryd  (restaurant)  —  at  one  comer 
compound  —  is  celebrated  locally  for  its  (native)  cuisi  . 
for  tea-  and  flower-ceremoiiies  conducted  with  stilted  eUque 
The  big  red-brick  structure  visible  at  the  S.W.  bouses  the  3j 
Brigade  of  the  Imperial  Guard.  From  the  flight  of  picture! 
BtepB  which  lead  down  at  the  rear  of  the  hill  extentdve  v 
may  be  had. 

Shimizudani  Park,  a  short  walk  N.  of  Hoshlgaoka  Park/ 
noted  for  it^  fine  double  cherry  blossoms  and  its  splendid  a. 
play  of  azaleas  in  season.  Near  the  .small  pond  with  goldfishta 
huge  monolith  to  the  memory  of  Qkybo  Toshimichi,  one  oftf 
builders  of  New  Japan  who  was  assassinated  near  the  ap' 
in  1878.  Not  far  to  the  W.  of  this  (PI.  D,  4)  is  the  wide  «, 
finely  wooded  park  inclosing  the  Akasaka  and  Aotaha  PtB 
ACB8  (sometime  residence  of  the  Crown  Prince),  with  eap 
landscape  gardens,  lakelets,  and  aroves;  the  annual  Im^ 
Chrysanthemum  Garden  Party  is  held  here.  The  regvx 
high,  clean,  and  healthy.  A  short  walk  to  the  W.  of  the  park^  - 
the  Military  College,  and  new  it  the  spacious  Barrack  saa  1 
Military  Parade-Ground  (Aoyama  rempeiba),  whra'e  resplen- 
dent military  reviews  are  sometimes  held  and  where  the  trav- 
eler may  see  battalions  ot  infantry  or  cavalry  manceuvcring 
and  practicing  the  adroit  moves  of  military  stratagem.  S, « 
■"■is  u  the  Aoyoma  Cemetery  (Aafcoia),  where  many  J^mu 

itablcs  are  buried. 


The  northeast  Qiuiter. 


The  Koishikawa  Arsenal  Gej4eii\H6hev-V,oKVvii  Kan 
ia  Koishikawa-ku  (PI.  G.  a-4'),  wiUvm  \,\ie-piec(tt«Ad 
seaaJ  (apeuial  perimt  iroKi  t.l*«  embeeBU  ,\e%^'^i'^^.«s™«fl 


:aku^.  TOKYO  10.  RmOe.    Id9 

it),  though  once  the  pride  of  Tdky5  (on  account  of  its 

design  and  oonstniction),  is  now  a  sooty,  blasted,  ami 
loly  place  with  but  faint  traces  of  its  former  beauty. 
OB  pass  the  Arsenal  gate  (take  the  Sotobori  car)  through 
ae  IS  conducted  to  the  garden;  the  bronze  monument 
raxd  commemorates  lAeutenant-General  OskSba.  The 
by  of  the  garden  to  the  busv  workshop  (which  is 

encroaching  on  its  one-time  beautiful  preserve)  ac^ 
or  the  many  dead  trees  (killed  by  smoke  and  noxioiis 
nd  the  withered  state  of  the  semi-tropical  vegetation. 
8  the  blatant  rat-tat-too  of  hurrying,  pounding  air- 

and  the  crashing  of  speeding  machinery,  coupled  with 
splitting  blasts  from  steam-whistles,  almost  deafen  the 
-  who  is  supposed  to  fee  the  attendant  that  conducts 
ut.  The  spot  upon  which  the  present  garden  stands  was 
J  residence  of  Tokugawa  Yorifusa  {daimyo  of  Mito, 
son  of  the  shogun,  leyasu),  who  transformed  the  entire 
oundabout  (between  1603  and  1661)  into  a  beautiful 
th  the  garden  as  its  finest  achievement.  This  is  now  a 
inder  of  the  fact  that  militarism  and  utilitarianism  are 
ig  a  distressing  effect  on  many  of  the  sometime  beauty 
'  the  Empire,  and  that  thev  are  one  by  one  moving 
an  ignoble  and  unmerited  oblivion, 
nn  is  the  best  time  to  visit  the  garden,  as  the  redden- 
les  are  more  beautiful  than  the  spring  blossoms  or  the 

blooms.  The  different  views  are  supposed  to  be  minia- 
famous  vistas  throughout  Japan;  all  the  formalities  of 
,  grassy  hills;  clipped  trees,  tiny  plunging  cascades, 

moon-bridges  are  still  observed,  but  the  visitor  needs  a 
nd  working  imagination  to  clothe  them  with  romance 
pecial  beauty.  The  attendant  who  conducts  the  visitor 

as  full  of  legends  as  a  pirate  is  full  of  oaths,  and  from 
>  may  learn  vastly  more  about  the  garden  than  the 
•  ever  intended,  or  the  present  owners  perhaps  ever 
1  of.  There  are  many  winding  walks,  stone  lanterns, 
g  trees  (the  finest  of  the  old  trees  are  dead),  dilapi- 
iimmer-houses  and  arched  bridges,  all  surrounding  a 
jlet:  above  them  broods  a  desperate  melancholy  which 
sually  glad  to  leave  behind. 

rokaku-ji  (temple)  of  the  Shingi  branch  of  the  Shingon 
cc)  of  Buddhists,  at  the  top  of  Otowacho,  in  Otsuka- 
tamachi,  Koishikawa  Ward  (PI.  G,  1),  W.  of  the 
awa  Arsenal  Garden,  though  now  weather-beaten  and 
ted,  was  once  rich  and  powerful.  It  was  founded  (in  the 
it.)  at  the  instance  of  the  mother  of  the  5th  Tohugawa 
Tsunayoshi,  and  is  chiefly  noteworthy  for  an  idol  (of 
Tirin  Kwannon)  made  of  amber,  once  the  property  of 
Vakugawa  shogun^  lemitsu.  The  shabby  interioT  oi  \\i<ft 
cture  is  not  as  interesting  as  the  fine  old  cherry  ttecB 


I 

m 


190     Rovte  10.  TOKYO  LafcatHoHian. 

which  twlom  the  yard  and  attract  many  visitors  in  spring.  At 
the  right  and  left  of  the  atone  steps  leading  up  to  the  lettaix 
on  which  the  editice  etunda  are  some  fine  banks  of  asekat. 
Behind  the  temple  ia  a  cemetery  used  by  the  Imperial  Fan^j. 
Beyond,  a  feiv  min.  walk  toward  the  W.,  along  a  good  rosd 
flanked  by  a  nursery  ot  ieko  trees  is 

Lsfcadio  Heam's  Grave,  in  the  Zoahigaya  Ceineterjr  nn. 
G,  1).  The  stone  which  covers  the  aahea  of  the  great  M;^ 
elands  in  a,  email  ioclosure  (down  the  8th  side  path  at  the  Wt 
of  the  straight  road  leading  in  from  the  entrance),  flurroumkd 
by  a  low,  neatly  trimmed  bamboo  hedge,  and  ov^'shsdowRl 
by  some  beauliuul  flowering  camellias,  azaleas,  fed'-benied 
vandiTia  domesliai,  and  a  number  of  coniferouB  trees.  A  line  ol 
vtaki  trees  {Podocarpua  rMnendi),  of  graceful  stature  and 
foliage,  marks  the  inner  side  of  the  inclosure,  which  is  entotd 
through  a  small  latticed  gate.  Standing  within  are  a  nuinba 
of  young  oaks  (kaahi'rui'ki)  and  flowering  trees.  Beneatii  a 
group  of  these  is  a  small  beach-like  seat,  and  near  it  a  rou^ 
Beniiiurcular  boulder,  from  which  rises  a  modest  gray  grmutti 
shaft  with  incised  Chinese  cbaractera.  The  inscription  on  the 
face,  translated,  reads;  'Grave  of  Koixumi  Yakumo.'  Th»t 
on  the  right:  'ShOgaku  In-deit  Joge  Hacki^n  Roji  '  (which, 
liberally  translated,  means,  'Man  of  superior  enli^^temnent 
who  dwells  like  an  undefiled  flower  in  the  mansion  of  the  ei^t 
rising  clouds  ')  —  the  latter  perhaps  in  poetic  reference  to  tbf 
upstanding  petals  of  the  lotus,  which  alwaya  form  the  seat  of 
Buddha.  The  inscription  at  the  left  advises  that  he '  Died  the 
26th  day  of  the  9th  month  of  the  37th  Year  of  Meiji '  (Sept. 
26,  1904).  The  grave  ia  looked  after  by  Heam'»  family,  whwh 
in  turn  has  long  been  the  object  of  the  fostering  care  of  a  g~~ 
eroua  American  gentleman  (  Heam's  lifelong  friend),  Pays 
rector  MitcheU  McDonald,  of  the  U.S.  Navy.  The  wood  Bb 
which  rise  behind  the  shaft  ore  called  sotoba  (a  Sanskrit  m^ 
meaning  'noble  '),  and  the  inscriptions  thereon  an 

from  the  Buddhist  sacred  books,  placed  here  (ot  . 

ries  and  other  special  occaaions)  to  please  the  spirit  o£9 
departed.   Flowers  in  upright  bamboo  tubes  stand  b    ~ 
base  of  the  monument. 

PerhapH  DD  fnreigDPr  over  wrolv  so  beautif ulLr.  ki  iotereetin^,  ao  iBl 
iouly,  and  uucleretacduiKLy  abdut  Japan  ae  Lajcadio  Ream,   Tbe  PC 
tonCy  of  hia  boat  boolifl  —  which,  willi  his  Li}e  and  Lttteri  Ihs  thm 
Bitland).  are  publUhed  by  Houghton  Mifflin  Co.  oi  Boston.  C.8,A.-<^ 
cresHB  ui  Dropatlion  BB  tbey  beconis  bBtler  Icnawn.  TheennadliiarW     . 
lianiw  Bod  luoiilitr  of  his  style,  coupled  witb  the  vnsl  amount  of  intannUia 
which  he  ilTes  about  the  innBnuiiat  life  and  (boughtB  of  the  Japaime. jait)     I 
bJabookelnaclaBaspBrt.  He  waabarn  Jui)e27.  I8S0,  on  UisMudnrAnla 
'  -  JiD  Ionian  Island")  and  wMealled  ta/Bmiio  I  •■       '    "     ■-— ~ 
LefGOiia.  a  comiptioD  of  the  old  Ltucodin.  i 
™..=,«^,u  ISMbe began  wDttBiBleao'oettfEBR'iab 

of  Matrae.  tiumo  Proiince.  In  Ian.  \^\,\i 

TsuufAi'  a  lady  ot  lugh  laTinirni  iK!li.,tav  « — 

r,OHi,har.ta  too^  tb^  game  *y  wfciEhto  ■»»  ^Wstwaa^om- 


Imperitfi  Unwerti^,  TOEYO  10.  Rauie.    101 

«e)  of  Koixuanit  which  rignifies  'Little  Spring.'  For  personal  title  he  ohoae 
the  HfM»««ftl  term  (for  Isumo  Province),  rakumOf  or  'Eight  Clouds.' — From 
Matsue  he  went  to  Kumamoto  On  search  of  a  warmer  clmie) ,  and  3  yrs.  later 
(1805)  to  Kobe,  where  he  J<»ned  the  staff  of  the  erudite  Japan  Chronicle.  Illr 
healUx  and  failing  eyesight  sent  him,  in  1806,  to  T6]nr0,  where,  through  the 
direct  instrumentahty  of  his  friend J'ro/.  Baail  HaU  Chamberlatnt  he  became 
a  Professor  of  English  in  the  Imperial  University.  Later  he  accepted  the 
chair  of  English  in  the  Waseda  Universily.  After  his  death  (caused  by  a 
general  breakdown)  the  funeral  ceremony  was  performed  according  to 
Buddhist  rites  at  the  Jitfi-in  Temple,  in  Ichigaya.  His  remains  were  cre- 
mated. The  modest  house  (No.  266  Nishi  Okubo)  in  which  he  lived  and  died, 
and  in  which  his  family  still  lives,  is  about  }  M.  £.  of  the  8hinjuku  Sta- 
tion (PI.  D,  2),  in  a  fenced  incloeure  with  trees,  about  ^  M.  at  the  right  of  the 
street  called  NaitOshiniuku-machi  (descend  a  few  min.  before  the  tram-car 
reaches  the  station).  Heam*a  study  is  preserved  in  the  state  in  which  it  was 
on  the  day  he  died.  The  stranger,  desirous  of  completing  the  pilgrimage  by 
visiting  the  grave,  may  proceed  from  Shinjuku  Station  (Belt-Line  Rly.)  to 
Dcebukuro  Station  (10  mm.,  5  sen),  thence  i  M.  (jinriki,  10  sen)  to  the  ceme- 
tenr  (at  the  £.).  If  Uie  grave  is  visited  first  the  trip  can  be  made  in  inverse 
oititer. 

The  ^Imperial  University  (Teikoku  Daigaku)  of  TOWo 
occupies  a  group  of  semi-classical  buildings  a  short  way  S. W. 
of  Uyeno  Park,  m  Hong5-ku  (PI.  H,  4)  in  the  extensive  grounds 
of  the  one-time  metropolitan  residence  (of  which  the  old  gate 
is  the  only  remaining  relic)  of  the  daimyo  of  Kaga  Province. 
Tram-cars  run  to  within  a  short  distance  of  the  main  gate, 
which  is  always  open  to  tibose  interested.  Almost  every  one 
about  the  place  speaks  English,  and  not  a  few  speak  German, 
since  Teutonic  minds  have  left  a  strong  impress  upon  the 
institution.  This  dates  from  March  1, 1886,  when-an  Imperial 
Odinance  fused  the  TokyO  Daigaku  C^miversity')  and  the 
Kobu  Daigaku  (both  independent  organizations).  The  present 
name  was  given  it  in  1897  to  distinguish  it  from  the  sister 
institution  at  Ky5to.  The  Amcultural  College  (with  a  library 
of  60,000  misceUaneous  books,  in  the  Komaga  suburb,  6  M. 
distant)  represents  the  fusion  of  the  Komaga  Agricultural 
College  and  the  Tokyo  Dendrological  College.  The  present 
College  of  Science  dates  from  1888.  The  new  Library  buildings 
were  erected  in  1892.  The  former  fine  Institute  of  CSvil  Engin- 
eering was  burned  in  1904,  but  was  rebuilt  (in  1907),  along 
with  the  Institutes  of  Naval  Architecture  and  Technology  of 
Arms.  The  university  is  the  center  from  which  Western 
learning  is  disseminated  throughout  Japan,  Korea,  and  China. 
As  a  sort  of  Japanese  Oxford,  it  stands  at  the  head  of  all 
the  universities  of  the  Empire.  The  gov't  appropriation  is 
¥1,300,000  a  year,  and  there  are  private  endowments.  There 
are  182  established  chairs,  and  a  faculty  of  365  (directors, 
professors,  and  lecturers).  The  admission  fee  for  students  is 
¥5,  and  tne  tuition  fee  for  the  3  annual  terms,  ¥35  inclusive. 

The  well-equipped  museum  for  Civil  Engineerinq  con- 
tains 136  moaels  of  railroads,  bridges,  canals,  poTt-V70TVai 
waterwarJar,  etc.;  that  of  Mechanical  Enginebrino,  181^ 
models;  Naval  Abcbitbcture,  1230  models;  TucaNOUOOX 
V  Ajgjus,    150  models;    ELECTRicAh    £nqink&bihq,  1«R» 


192    Route  10.  TOETO  Geoloffimi  MuanmL 

models;  Architecttjre,  8600  models,  plates,  and  drawingi; 
Applied  Chemistry,  8600;  and  Mining  and  MBTAiiLUBor, 
12,500  specitnens,  etc.  The  Section  of  Hibtort  embraoa 
Japanese,  Chinese,  and  Occidental  History.  That  of  LnnBA- 
TURE,  Japanese,  Chinese,  Sanskrit,  English,  German,  Frmch. 
and  Philology.  In  the  Zoological  Museum  of  the  Natural 
Science  Department,  there  is  a  rich  and  varied  collection 
(about  6000  species)  of  invertebrates,  including  about  2500 
specimens  of  Japanese  birds  distributed  among  400  species 
(the  best  collection  extant  of  the  avifauna  of  the  islands). 
Nearly  all  the  common  species  of  reptiles,  amphibians,  and 
fishes  are  represented,  including  many  from  Formosa  and 
Korea.  The  collecton  of  Crustacea  embraces  some  Idghly 
interesting  specimens  of  the  bizarre  products  of  the  Japanese 
coast,  while  the  molluscs  are  also  well  represented.  The  valu- 
able collection  of  shells  was  a  gift  from  the  Boston  Society  of 
Natural  History.  That  of  insects  contains  many  bizarre  speci- 
mens from  the  Loochoo  Islands,  and  from  certain  volcanic 
regions  of  Japan.  A  noteworthy  feature  of  the  Museum  is  a 
collection  of  beautiful  and  remarkable  glass-sponges  discovcnred 
recently  in  the  Sagami  Sea.     (See  p.  35.) 

The  Geological  Museum  of  the  College  of  Science  (with 
about  10,900  specimens)  is  on  the  ground  floor  of  the  Natural 
Science  Department  building,  and  comprises  five  sections: 

—  StRATIGRAPHICAL,      PALiBONTOLOGICAL,     MlNBRALOGIGALy 

Petrographical,  and  a  Section  devoted  to  indigenous  speci- 
mens of  minerals,  rocks,  and  fossils.  Among  these  are  to  be 
found  splendid  specimens  of  Stibnite  crystals  from  Shikoku; 
Anorthite  crystals  ejected  from  a  volcano  in  Miyakojima; 
Cordierite  in  contact  rocks  from  various  localities;  Danburite 
crystals  from  Obira;  fine  Topazes  from  Mino;  large  peeudo- 
morphic  crystals  of  Ferberite  from  Kai;  Columbite  cr^tab 
from  Hitachi,  and  other  interesting  and  beautiful  things. 
Noteworthy  in  the  palaeontological  section  are  the  Ammon- 
ites from  Rikuzen,  and  the  Hokkaidd;  the  Mesozoio  fiAants 
from  Nagato,  Tosa,  and  Kaga;  Tertiary  shells- from  Oii  and 
the  Hokkaidd ;  impressions  of  plants  of  the  same  age  from  Mod, 
Shiobara,  and  elsewhere;  and  the  mammalian  remains  of  toe 
Stegodons,  and  a  bison  from  Shodoshima.  Many  rare  i^ants 
are  included  in  the  specimens  kept  in  the  Herbarium  of  the 
Botanical  Institute.  In  the  Anthropological  Museum  an 
interesting  ethnographical  collections  from  the  little  known 
and  rarely  visited  island  of  Saghalicn,  and  from  the  Hok- 
kaidd; others  from  the  almost  equally  unfamiliar  Loocboo 
Islands,  and  from  Korea,  China,  Formosa,  Micronesia.  Melsr 
nesia,  Polynesia,  and  America.  The  archaeological  collectioiil 
from  Europe  and  America  differ  but  little  from  those  to  be 
seen  in  American  and  Continental  museums,  but  the  rdicB  of 
prehistoric  and  proto-hiatoric  Japan  are  unique. 


^-nwermiy  lAbrary.  TOEYO  10.  Route,    193 

The  AsTBONOiacAL  Obsbrvatobt  (in  Azabu-ku,  in  a  2-acre 
rk  formerly  occupied  by  the  Naval  Observatory)  attached 
-^^^the  Ck)llege  of  Science  is  the  best  equipped  in  the  Far  East. 
'J^^xom  it  the  mean  standard  time  is  distriputed  daily  to  all  tibe 
^^legraph  stations  of  the  Empire,  and  for  the  noon  signalnsta- 
^^«ns  at  T6ky6,  Yokohama,  Kobe,  and  Moji. 

The  Botanical  Gabden  of  the  University,  in  Hakusan- 
^rotenmachi,  Koishikawarku  (PI.  H,  2),  about  1  M.  to  the 
^^.W.,  has  an  area  of  40  acres  and  is  imder  control  of  the  Col- 
*^e  of  Science.   There  are  3000  or  more  native  and  foreign 
plants  arranged  according  to  EngUr  and  PrarUl^a  system  of 
classification.    Besides  the  various  plant-houses  in  Japanese 
style,  such  as  the  Okamiu*o,  Osakamuro,  and  Anamuro,  there 
is  a  greenhouse,  built  in  European  style,  with  many  interesting 
tropical  plants.  A  beautiful  pleasure-ground  is  a  feature  of  the 
inclosure,  which  is  open  to  the  public  (admission,  5  aen) .  Certain 
travelers  may  be  interested  in  the  seed-catalogue,  published 
yearly  and  sent  to  foreign  botanic  gardens  and  umversities, 
and  to  botanists  in  different  parts  of  the  world  —  with  a  view 
to  the  selection  and  exchange  of  seeds.   The  Alpine  Botanic 
Garden  at  Nikko  is  a  branch  devoted  to  the  cultivation  and 
study  of  the  rich  flora  for  which  the  Nikko  Mts.  are  cele- 
brated. 

Besides  an  EIxperimbntal  Farm,  the  Colleqb  of  Agricul- 
ture possesses  5  forests  (intended  for  practical  instruction  in 
sylviculture),  two  in  T6ky6-fu,  one  in  Chiba  Prefecture,  one 
in  the  Hokkaido  (of  57,000  acres),  and  one  (of  144,000  acres)  in 
Formosa. 

The  *Univbr8ity  Library,  with  nearly  J  million  volumes, 
is  a  veritable  mine  of  wealth  for  the  scholar  and  investigator. 
Upward  of  250,000  of  the  books  are  in  the  Chinese  and  Japan- 
ese languages;  190,000  are  of  European  or  American  proven- 
ience, and  the  remainder  from  various  sources.  The  most 
important  of  the  special  collections  are  the  Max  Mailer  library 
of  about  10,000  vols. ;  Prof.  EngeVs  collection  for  the  study  of 
statistics,  5200  vols. ;  Prof.  Denberg^s  Law  Library,  6400  vols. ; 
Geography  of  Japanese  counties  and  towns,  6400  vols. ;  Docu- 
ments relating  to  Buddhist  and  Shinto  Temples  under  the 
Tokugavxi  GovH,  1100  vols.;  Documents  of  the  Supreme  Court 
under  the  same,  9100  vols.;  Documents  relating  to  Korea  dur- 
ing the  same  era,  1100  vols.  The  most  precious  among  the  rare 
and  valuable  books  are:  The  Great  Chinese  Encyclopaedia 
(Kintei'To8hio-shtLsei)y  about  10,000  vols.;  the  Tibetan  Tripi- 
taka,  350  vols. ;  the  Mongolian  Tripitaka,  106  vols. ;  the  Rokuon 
and  Onryu  Diaries,  about  220  vols.  The  numerous  books  re- 
lating to  early  Jesuit  Missions  in  Japan,  besides  being  priceless, 
are  highly  interesting  records  of  a  sony  page  in  the  history  of 
hothtDB  country  ana  the  misguided  bigots  who  invaded  vi.  — 
Alhletes  are  usually  interest^  in  the  schools  for  Jtido  (^^e^ 


i 


wtec 


TOKYO 


MaH 


KitiSv),  Baeebatl  and  Football,  Arcbory,  and 
univHnty  BoathoiuB  is  on  Ihc  Suniida  lUver  (F 
is  a  npll-pquippod  Swimming-StsUon  at  the  JM 
mila,  in  Izu  Province. 

Thf  Ma  RiNB  BioLocfiCAL  Station  at  Mieaki,  i 
of  Saganii,  dates  from  1887j  and  for  ten  years 
oonter  of  reaoarohea  in  manne  zoology  in  Japt 
nnidl  library  there  is  an  interesting  aquarium.  S 
extKinity  of  the  peninsula  that  juts  out  betwei 
SltR'i'nl  ""d  the  Gulf  of  TSkyO,  the  station  has  a< 
ti(«  Ions  famous  as  the  home  of  some  remarkable 
AJonfC  tne  coast,  all  sorts  of  bottoms  arc  found,  ] 
Vluioty  of  inaiine  life.  The  100  fathom  hne  is  wii 
of  the  sborc,  and  depths  of  500  f  athonw  are  not  c 
wihw.  The  ■raristence  of  a  remarkable  deep-sea  li 
profonnder  parla  has  been  ascertained  within 
voarH,  and  !to5logical  treasures  are  now  beii: 
Iirou(!ht  up.  The  warm  KuT(>-shiv>o  (p.  cxiv)  a* 
many  miles  out,  and  a  branch  of  it  often  comes 
station,  bringing  exceedingly  rich  and  interest! 
The  mention  of  such  names  a&  Eupleotella  HyaJ 
rotomariaj  Metacrinus.  Macrocheirous,  and  the 
lacliUB  Miteukurina,  Rliinochemaera,  etc.,  will 
u&tuiAliat  some  of  the  characteristic  forms  of  thii 
■tntjou  is  primarily  intended  for  the  use  of  stiu 
etniolorB  of  the  University,  but  ite  facilities  an 
Qthor  persons  who  are  qualified  to  avail  them 
opportuniti'eB  of  research  hcrcafforded.  Every  sm 
of  olelhontary  aoSlogj;  with  laboratory  work  is  \ 
benefit  iif  teachers  of  intermediate  schools. 

A  unique  and  sustainedly  interesting  adjunci 
VOTsity .  and  one  which  most  travelers  (who  are  wi 
tees)  will  wish  to  inspect  (English  spoken),  is  the 
Ickl  Observatory  {Jishin-gaku  Kyoahtfyu)  and  its 
nt  prcHont  under  tlie  supervision  of  Dt,  F.  Qmo 
greatest  living  authorities  on  earthquake  pheoon 

Th4tBtuilvo<f  tJilpetraitSBacivfHie  wutWBuniii  Japaninn, 
™r."«>a  nflof  1>8  Reatoration;  the  eminent  Pro/,  miie  Cdi« 
Inipp""'  loi'.  and  nJl^ugh  oarthcjuake  obsorysaon 

mtdojtloal  Sod 


in  TOkyS  in  the  Sth  year  of  Xriji  (I 
,  »..•  f».....l»l  ..^A  icon    TU..^. 


„„  ,      ,.  .    B  bigily  TBluBbte  oi._.. 

nilviincfTHnat  of  HifunoloEy.   In  odditioa  to  the  oentral  at 
Ihnte  nrv  muiiy  nuilUsry  etatinoEBcstteriH!  tbraughwit  the. 

wuiT  iTiem^  the  Enrthquake    IcvoHtigBl 

rhtaakuai),  mtobllshed  by  Hu  Impenal  0 

ftilnannlogieal  Suivo)-.  whoee  object  is  la  study  it 
.Jttiian  w  tesvrAt  thoir  intetnil  HiMW-ite,  Vimt  it 
jSlribulioti.ote.  9«>'«"°"","^£C'';^,?^ 


g  Cominlttfle 


SeimolofficalObaen.  TOEYO  10.  RatOe.    195 

of  nearly  83  sq.  meters.  The  walls,  of  parabolic  section  with  the  vertex  down- 
wards, are  5.5  m.  high,  2.4  m.  thick  at  the  ground  level,  and  0.7  m.  at  the 
top.  A  tiled  roof  wiw  skylights  rests  loosely  on  the  walls,  in  which  there  is 
but  one  entrance.  Many  interesting  experiments  are  carried  out  by  the 
Society.  The  movements  of  walls,  effects  on  houses  of  different  construction, 
fracturing  exi)eriments,  vibrations  of  bridge-piers,  deflection  and  vibration 
of  r^way  bridges  during  earthquakes,  and  many  kindred  phenomena  are 
studied,  and  the  important  results  are  not  only  printed  in  Japanese  and 
f orei^  languages,  but  the  professors  also  lecture  to  students  of  geology  and 
physics  in  the  College  of  Science,  and  to  those  of  architectiu^  and  civil 
en^neering  in  the  College  of  En^eerin^. 

The  amazingly  delicate  and  umque  registering  instruments  (most  of  which 
were  invented  and  made  in  Japan)  housed  in  the  Observatory  are  novel  and 
of  unfailing  interest.  Certain  of  tne  seismometers  (j^shinki)  are  so  unthink- 
ably  fine  and  so  admirably  adjusted  that  they  register  ever^  earth  pulsation 
from  the  most  violent  and  destructive  earthquakes  (jishtn)  to  the  tiniest 
tremor.  To  prevent  their  recording  every  passing  vibration,  some  are  placed 
on  massive  concrete  foundations  which  are  isolated  from  the  radiating  wood 
floors  and  the  waUs  b^  air  spaces.  So  adjusted,  they  resemble  dainty  jewel- 
weighing  balances  poised  on  bulky  stone  monuments.  The  mere  pressure  of 
ti)e  thumb  against  this  concrete  pedestal,  or  the  iron  frame  of  the  machine, 
throws  the  nervous  little  needles  mto  a  state  of  ludicrous  agitation.  The  seis- 
mograms  which  they  register  from  all  parts  of  the  world  are  recorded  by  deli- 
cate points  moving  across  a  band  of  smoked  glazed  paper  wound  round  a 
drum.  This  cylinder  is  turned  by  clock-work  at  any  required  rate  according 
to  the  particular  kind  of  earth  motion  it  is  desired  to  observe.  The  rotation 
of  the  drum  is  marked  by  a  time  ticker,  which  is  in  circuit  with  a  chrono- 
meter. ■  There  are  many  of  these  ingenious  machines,  all  of  which  record  me- 
chanically, day  and  night.  On  the  surrounding  walls  are  scores  of  enlarged 
photographs  portraying  scenes  in  districts  visited  by  earthquakes.  Those 
of  Messina-Reg^o  show  the  imperfect  construction  of  the  houses,  which 
collapsed  in  a  rain  of  rubble  at  the  first  tremble,  and  are  meant  to  be  com- 
parea  with  the  Japanese  wood  houses,  which  always  sway  and  twist  before 
falling,  thus  giving  the  inmates  a  chance  to  escape.  In  the  terms  used  in  the 
Observatory,  a  *  sught '  earthquake  shock  is  one  which  is  almost  too  feeble 
to  be  felt;  a  *  weak  '  shock  is  one  whose  motion  is  well  pronounced  but  not  so 
severe  as  to  cause  general  alarm ;  and  a  '  strong  '  shock  is  one  which  is  suffi- 
ciently sharp  to  produce  small  cracks  in  walls,  to  throw  down  articles  from 
shelves,  and  the  like;  these  terms.are  generally  employed  in  reports  of  earth- 
quakes. 

Earthquakes  have  long  been  the  natural  phenomena  most  destructive  to 
life  and  property  in  Japan.  In  the  authentic  history  of  the  islands  they  are 
first  mentioned  during  the  reign  of  the  (19th)  Emperor  Ingyd,  in  a.d.  416. 
Since  that  remote  time,  of  the  myriad  quakes,  2000  have  been  unusually 
strong,  223  destructive^  and  10  accompanied  by  an  appalling  loss  of  life. 
Of  these  47  had  their  origin  in  the  bed  of  the  Pacific  Ocean,  17  in  the  Japan 
Sea,  2  in  the  Inland  Sea;  114  were  insular,  and  43  obscure.  Seven  of  those 
from  the  Pacific  ori^nated  off  the  S.E.  coast  and  were  accompanied  by  tidal 
waves  (tsunami)  which  caused  greater  damage  than  the  quakes  themselves. 
The  worst  of  the  10  great  quakes  occurred  Oct.  28,  1707,  and  the  area  dam- 
aged included  the  E.  part  of  KyQshu,  the  Island  of  Shikoku  and  the  S.  part 
oithe  Main  Island,  between  the  provinces  of  Harima  on  the  W.,  and  Kai 
and  Suruga  on  the  E.  Earthquakes  were  carefully  registered  in  Kydto 
(which  was  the  capital  of  the  Empire  for  1070  yrs.  between  797  and  1867) 
for  over  a  thousand  yrs.,  and  during  that  time  it  was  shaken  violently  228 
times. 

They  occur  with  greater  frequency  along  the  E.  coast  of  the  islands  than 
on  th€W.  coast,  and  their  distribution  seems  to  have  a  close  connection  with 
the  ci6vilinear  form  of  the  country.  According  to  Dr.  Omori, '  the  group  of 
the  Japanese  islands  forms  an  arc,  with  its  concavity  toward  the  Japan  Sea, 
and  tiie  general  geographical  distribution  of  destructive  earthquakes  in 
Japan  may  be  summarized  as  follows:  the  provinces  on  the  concave  or 
jMMm-Sea  side  of  the  arc  were  disturbed  almost  exclusively  byr  local  i^ocks; 
wmle  those  on  the  convex  or  Pacific  side  were  often  disturbed  by  gTe^\>ii0ii- 
loeal  ODCS,  whose  origins  were  situated  in  the  ocean.  The  three  ctetAt  vs^>-> 


I 


in  TakyS  each . 

iBDvliuU ,. 

_  — „_kced  iDagaetic  diAtiirbaaoea  usually  precedt  ^-  «-^^— .—-^  — - 
quakea  la  Japan,  and  ths  moat  viDlent  onsa  are  Lhoae  wlu(ibrollowByEar« 
■D  or  comparative  tranquil Lity  In  manycasqaa  rumbliiiflaound  like  Uutff 
diauat  Ibiindpr,  nr  a  rushing  SDund  like  a  blast  of  wind  is  haard  iunbafm 
or  aimultaneousl)'  wicb.  the  ttrriva]  or  tbe  earth  ripl'le'  or  tnmbliiics.  'i" 
the  oHsLq  of  the  disturbance  ia  near  the  observer.  These  souqd-pbencuiuu 
are  of  more  frequent  occurreoce  ia  raoky  distrii^U.  than  on  tlie  nlains,  Tv 

iiabuut  2}  yra.  Although  sho^iteaiiieHi&Bly  they  h^ve  a  tendeneytooontf 
iBETOuM,  More  take  placB  In  sununei  than  la  wintBT.  The  anaual  mialia 
of  the  fieoueney  of  destructive  quakes  is  the  reverse  of  that  of  the  ontinio 

umiiiy  low 

ol  deatnicdve  di«turbaacei. 

One  of  the  moat  appalling  earthq  unkes 
a.H.  on  Oct.  3S,  Isai.stQifu.intliepravii: 
the  whode  of  Central  and  Southern  Japai 

17,000  were  iniurHl,  and  nearly  20,000  L, „, 

bridges,  arehes,  and  miles  tif  railwa-y,  embankmenl 
aller-shackH  wMch  extended  dver  a  period  at  two  yt, 
this  great  ahake,  wlucb  ts  referred  to  as  the  Mino-0    .. 
baa  been  A  naliceable  Inereose  in  the  viaitatioas.  Following  it  »«  uh  it^m- 
"- — '-^-a,8epl.7,lgMi 

,  .„ _^ ^ J.  IBS*;  SbioA 

uei.  ti.  lem;  Una  and  RikuohQ.  Aus.  31,  ISSfl;  Nseskno,  Jan.  17,  ISSTj 
Sendai  and  Itikuien,  Feb.  20. 1807;  and  in  addition  several  voleanie  en>r 
lions,  landslips,  subterraneHU  nines,  elo.  On  June  15.  IBM,  a  WniEc  dittuA- 

ourobcat  wal«r,  »nd  this,  in  the  f  orm  of  a  tidal  vave,  rushed  iA  od  Ihe  N.L 
mart  of  the  Main  Island  and  devastated  it  for  s  Icustb  of  ZM  M.,kill- 
ing  perhaps  30,000  IHDide,  and  ruining  their  homes.    Miiny  of  the  leoDl 

eruptions  are  usually  conlined  to  a  oomparatively  small  area.  andtEmre&tt 
is  mora  noticeable  in  the  Inlerior  villages  than  the  seaeoaat  citlee.  Oalyia 
very  eiceptionai  oaaes  do  the  earth-tremors  iolertere  with  tbe  daily  life  oflkl 
people.  Ben  and  there  a  nhlmneyoraDiiiKKure  wall  tumblsetoOiegraBBi 
and^it  is  only  in  Dosea  of  diaaAtrous  quakes,  like  that  oT  Qifu,  that  one  I»a 
ol  much  loM  of  life.  Esrthquakea  in  TOkyS  am  apt  to  be  ooaaidenUy  1^ 
destruclive  to  iife  and  prnperty  than  the  nrefl  which  sometimea  follow  t^ga 

the  average  traveler  l^nds  tbe  eip 
of  Bolkl  arohitaoture  coming  rapidly  into  vogue 
Ibe  destruotivensm  of  the  quakiH,  —  from  whiol 
d  budUat  objects 


No  destructive  earthquake  hsa  ocooirtd  it 
Tft/ima,  Shiribeahi,  KiWoni.  Hiui^ta.  ft?^,  .^^V 
iilgo,  fiusen,  8uw6,  H6ki,  Miniaaals».  IstiKM- .  __  — 


»*.  TOKYO  10.  Route.    197 

B,  TotSmi,  S 

idlOf 

i*  Kai 

EMsh  of  the  remainixig  42  provinces. 

walk  W.  of  the  University  brings  one  to  Prof.  Kano*8 
dhfiol  (p.  clxiv  and  PL  H,  3-4).  The  district  to  the  W. 
,  number  of  schools  and  colleges.  The  Waseda  Uni- 
1  Oshigome-ku,  PI.  F,  2)  was  founded  in  1902  (by 
ima)  on  the  site  of  the  Tokyo  Academy  established 
1882.  It  is  an  important  and  fully  equipped  private 
I,  with  a  fine  Ubrary  (152,000  vols.),  178  instructors, 
mtSy  and  an  internationally  celebrated  baseball  team. 
5AKA  (PL  1, 3),  a  sometime  popular  resort  (now  falling 
line)  a  short  way  N.  of  the  Imperial  University,  is 
'  its  annual  Chrysanthemum  Show  (held  in  autumn), 
•wing  and  cut  flowers  are  fashioned  into  samuraiy 
lythological  character,  animals,  junks,  etc.,  or  made 
nt  historical  scenes.  A  small  entrance  fee  is  exacted 
f  the  places.  Curio-shops  and  story-tellers  enliven 
neighborhood  —  to  reach  which,  take  the  tram-car 
ner  of  Makicho  and  Hakusan^  and  walk  10  min.  to 
Or  descend  from  the  Beit-Line  Rly.  at  Nippori 
limb  the  hiU,  and  continue  along  the  pretty  lane  (20 
^  Yanaka  Sansdhimachi. 

(or  Ueno)  Park  (PL  I,  4),  the  largest  and  hand- 
the  MetropoUtan  Parks,  at  the  N.  edge  of  the  capi- 
itaya  Ward,  celebrated  for  the  Imperial  Museum 
B  accompanying  Park  Plan),  the  Zoological  Gardens, 
iful  Mausolea  of  the  shoguns,  the  Time  Bell,  Bronze 

and  many  minor  attractions,  is  one  of  the  brightest, 
tnd  highest  points  in  the  city,  and  from  its  eminences 
Qsive  views  of  the  environing  region  are  obtainable, 
of  fine  old  trees  flank  the  shaded  avenues,  many  of 
i  to  dainty  shrines  and  sequestered  retreats.  Vast 
)ngregate  here  in  April  to  view  the  splendid  cherry 
^hich  overshadow  the  public  drive;  in  Aug.  to  enjoy 
h  of  lotus  blooms  on  Shinobazu  Pond;  and  at  all 
iie  year  to  partake  of  the  joyousness  which  pervades 

The  site  belonged  originally  to  the  daimyo  family  of 
Iga  Province),  and  the  name  Uyeno  is'derived  from 
istance  that  its  general  situation  is  said  to  resemble 
)f  the  same  name  in  the  above  province.  In  the  early 

place  was  considered  unlucky  and  the  common 
led  it  Ki-mon,  or  Devil's  Gate.  As  a  sort  of  antidote, 
I,  lemitsUf  caused  to  be  erected  here  (in  1625)  a  group 
anples,  the  chief  one  of  which  he  called  Kwan-ei-ji 

name  of  the  era  during  which  it  was  built) .  To  the 
ttive  the  name  To-ei-zan  ('Hiei-zan  of  the  East '^  to 
a"  than  from  the  Hiei-zan  fanes  near  KyQto.  TYmb 


198    RauU  10.  TOKYO  Uym  ft* 

glitter  and  magnificence  of  the  temples  were  planned  to  bdlp 
ward  off  the  evil  spirits.  The  original  structure  oceupied  the 
site  of  the  present  museum,  but  it  was  burned  in  18^ onthe 
occasion  of  a  fierce  conflict  between  the  partisans  of  the  shogvn 
and  the  imperialists;  along  with  it  went  the  colossal  gatewur 
which  stood  at  the  S.  entrance  to.  the  inclosure.  The  grounds 
(which  were  acquired  in  1873  by  the  Imperial  Houaehola)  were 
laid  out  by  the  famous  priest  Tenkaiy  or  Jigen-DaiM)  ^ 
superior  (in  1625)  of  both  the  Uyeno  and  Nildco  temples,  and 
whose  influence  over  Tokugawa  leyasu  was  so  markea  that  he 
became  known  as  the '  Minister  of  the  Black  Gown.' 

At  the  S.  entrance  to  the  park,  where  the  tram-cars  from 
Ginza  turn  to  the  right,  pass  the  Uyeno  RJy.  Station  and  pro- 
ceed along  the  broad  Kiu*umazakamachi  to  Asakusa,  th^  are 
43  stone  steps  which  lead  to  the  upper  level;  strangers  should 
read  the  regulations  (in  English)  on  the  sign-bo^  at  the 
right.  Those  who  plan  to  visit  the  museum  and  other  buildings 
and  to  spend  the  day  in  the  park  may  wish  to  remembtf  that 
meals  in  foreign  style  are  served  at  the  Uyeno  branch  (Enj^ 
spoken)  of  the  Tsukiji  Seiyoken  Hotel  (p.  110),  near  the  Iwonie 
Buddha  (reached  by  following  the  broad  avenue  which  leads 
up  at  the  left  of  the  steps) .  The  bronze  statue  at  the  right,  of  a 
bulky,  material-looking  mail  leading  a  small  do^,  standBto the 
memory  of  Saigo  Takamori  (1827-77)  a  promment  figure  in 
the  war  for  the  Restoration. 

Takamori  occupied  a  high  position  in  the  army  of  hudaimydt  Bhd  in  1874 
he  was  made  marshal.  Later,  when  the  question  of  an  interventioD  in  Eon^ 
affairs  was  mentioned,  it  was  found  that  Takamori*8  views  were  oppoaed  ^ 
those  of  the  Gov't.  Retiring  to  Kagos^iima  (Rte.  41),  he  estabuBbed  a 
school  to  which  many  of  the  youth  of  Osumi  and  Satsuma  flocked.  1*?^ 
restored  Gov't  foresaw  the  rise  of  his  power  and  made  strenuous  bat  vun 
eJSforts  to  bring  him  back  to  Tokyo.  The  insurrectionary  moyement  (known 
as  the  Satsuma  Rebellion)  finally  broke  out  in  1877,  and  on  Feb.  15,  Tatifi' 
mori,  at  the  head  of  IS.OCK)  men,  took  possession  of  Kagoahima.  MardiinK 
N.  he  met  the  Kumamoto  army,  defeated  it,  and  laid  siege  to  that  ci^^T 
which  was  defended  with  great  vigor  by  Colonel  Tani.  Thereupon  theCkJ^' 
declared  Takamori  to  have  forfeited  his  princely  rank  and  titles,  andit*nt 
Arisugawa  Taruhito  with  a  considerable  body  of  men  against  him.  T^ 
rebels  had  to  withdraw  before  superior  numbers,  but  making  a  sasxf^ 
effort,  Takamori  succeeded  in  entering  Kagoshima.  There,  surroiuosd  on 
all  sides,  the  insurgents  prepared  to  sell  their  lives  dearly.  The  last  h^^ 
took  place  on  Shiroyama,  Sept.  24.  Saigo  was  wounded  by  a  ImII,  and  ooo 
of  his  faithful  retainers,  Beppu  Shinauke,  put  an  end  to  his  life.  The  ft*^ 
was  erected  to  his  honor  in  1899.  He  was  fond  of  hunting,  and  the  dog  9>^  °^ 
right  was  his  favorite  and  constant  companion. 

The  line  of  houses  near  the  edge  of  the  bluflf  at  the  right  are 
popular  native  restaurants  and  tea-houses.  Behind  the  sn^j 
nouse  near  the  monument  is  an  elevated  tomb  called  ShOgi^f 
above  the  remains  of  the  soldiers  who  died  defending  the  d^ 
gun's  castle  at  the  time  of  the  Restoration.  Hard  by  ^t)  ^ 
the  Kiyomizu  Temple  (a  copy  of  the  famous  one  at  EjyOto, 
described  in  Rte.  27) .  At  the  rear,  surrounded  by  a  low  bamhoo 
fence,  w  a  much  revered  cherry  tree  called  the  SMtukU^ 


BeU.  TOKYO  10,  Route,    109 

If  and  near  it,  a  well,  both  known  to  the  people  for  a 
written  by  ShinsMhi,  a  celebrated  poetess)  to  the  effect 
[t  is  dangerous  to  have  a  well  near  a  beautiful  cherry 
)r  while  looking  at  one,  a  person  may  fall  into  the  other! ' 
mple  is  a  cherished  relic  of  feudal  days — one  of  the  lone 
ors  of  the  group  erected  by  lemitsu;  the  view  from  the 
jlatform  is  attractive.  The  large  picture  at  the  right  of 
trance  (a  portrait  of  a  well-known  teacher  of  the  sword- 
was  given  to  the  temple  (by  his  pupils)  to  celebrate  the 
jmiversary  of  the  Japanese  Constitution.  Above  the 
ce  within,  hanging  in  a  bad  light,  is  a  spirited  pictiu*e  of 
ttle  referred  to  above.  The  chief  divinity  at  the  shrine  is 
ousand-handed  Kwannon,  said  to  be  more  than  a  thous- 
9.  old.  The  scores  of  dolls  in  the  individual  glass^fronted 
at  the  left  were  presented  by  the  mothers  of  children 
ailments  were  cured  by  the  intervention  of  the  benevo- 
nidess.  The  fine  grove  of  cherry  trees  near  the  temple 
ts  a  beautiful  sight  in  April,  and  gives  the  name  Sakura" 
(cherry  plateau)  to  the  section.  The  hill  beyond  the 
icting  roaiiway  is  called  Sunbachi-yama  because  of  the 
ity  in  shape  to  a  suribachi  —  an  earthenware  vessel  in 
bean-soup  is  prepared. 

rearing  round  to  the  right  of  this  the  traveler  comes  to 
le  Art  Building,  where  at  certain  seasons  (usually  spring 
11)  art-exhibits  of  various  kinds  (admission,  10  sen)  are 
►red  (and  sold).  From  the  open  space  beyond  a  superb 
aay  be  had  of  that  section  of  the  city  lying  to  the  E.  of 
midagawa.  The  temple  in  the  walled-in  garden  at  the 
Us  for  no  special  mention. 

;uming  to  the  left  beyond  the  iron  bridge  we  come  to  the 
^aishi  Temple  (Buddhist),  dedicated  to  Jigen-Daishi  and 
celebrated  bonze  (of  the  Tendai  sect;  b.  912;  d.  985)  Jie- 
,  a  great  court  favorite  and  sometime  head  of  the  Hiei- 
mples.  His  portrait  is  ascribed  to  Kano  Tanyu.  The 
ng  gongs  which  mark  the  entrance  to  the  fane;  the  strik- 
landsome  roof;  the  superb  laver,  and  the  several  bronze 
IS  in  the  yard  are  worth  noting.  The  double  doors  (with 
iperial  chrysanthemum  crest)  at  the  side  of  the  yard 
ccess  to  the  tomb  of  a  prince  (a  one-time  abbot  of  the 
'  temples)  who  for  some  time  was  retained  here  as  a 
al  hostage.  The  large  building  at  the  right  of  the  front 
s  a  storeroom.  The  two  housed  images  enveloped  in 
clothes  are  of  the  benevolent  Jizo. 

Time  Bell,  a  huge  bronze  instrument  near  the  entrance 
Seiyoken  Restaurant,  is  a  sort  of  chronometer  for  many 
jids  of  persons,  who  live  in  the  region  roundabout  ana 
9ually  synchronize  their  watches  with  its  booming  notes, 
itly  it  belonged  to  the  temple  (long  since  destio'^^^  ^ 
the  nearby 


200    Rouie  10.  TOEYO  Skinobami 


Bronze  Daibutsu,  or  Buddha,  was  an  adjunct.  The 
21  ft.  high,  was  cast  m  1695,  and  is  in  every  way  inferk^: 
the  great  Daibutsu  of  E!amakura. 

The  Equestrian  Statue  of  Prince  Komatau  (a  relativ^^^   <rf 
the  Emperor,  and  a  descendant  of  the  Fujiwara)^  which  stB>>w>d8 
near  the  big  toriij  on  a  handsome  brown  speckled  granite  1=>^ue 
16  ft.  sq.  (from  Rokkozan) ;  is  15  ft.  9  in.  high;  was  designee:!-  ^y 
Shirir-ichiro  Okada;  cast  at  the  Koishikawa  Arsenal;     <s<xt 
¥100,000,  and  was  unveiled  March  18, 1912.  -;-  The  Magrm.^^ 
grandiflora  in  the  fenced  inclosure  at  the  rear  (right),  called  "the 
Grant  Giohurany  or  Kinenju  (*  Keepsake  Tree'),  was  p\sLXXt^ 
Aug.  25, 1879,  by  Mrs,  U.  S.  Grant.   The  one  at  the  left,  &    ^«- 
jrressus  Lawsonianaj  was  planted  by  General  Grant  the  same  ctoy* 

The  ToshogUy  a  Shinto  shrine  dedicated  to  ToktigatDa  le^^^^^ 
stands  at  the  end  of  the  shaded  walk  (fine  cryptomeria  t^'^W 
leading  from  the  torii  near  the  main  drive;  is  a  miniature  o^^_5^ 
Tdshogu  at  Nikko,  and  was  erected  between  1624  and  1^*3. 
The  tall  stone  lanterns  were  gifts  of  daimyos.  The  gateway  ^?* 
restored  in  1890.  The  interior  and  exterior  of  the  shrine    ^*^ 
play  a  maze  of  polychromatic  carvings  and   diaper-^^* 
inferior  to  that  of  the  mausolea  described  hereinafter.      -^  j 
coffered  ceiling  is  latticed.  The  line  of  framed  pictures  aro*'^? 
the  oratory  are  of  ancient  court  poets.  The  wood  masks  "^S 
gilded  teeth  are  used  on  festival  days.  The  tablet  abov^    ^ 
entrance  to  the  inner  sanctum  carries  leyasu^s  posthuiX*^?J 
name,   To-sho-gUf  copied  from  an  original  written  by      ^ 
Emperor  Gomi-no-o  (17th  cent.).  The  square  building  bet^^^ 
the  shrine  and  the  dilapidated  old  pagoda  is  the  "heav^^^ 
music  hall.'  - 

The  Lake  (Shinobazu-no-ike)  or  Pond,  a  shallow  she^'*'.^ 
water  at  the  left  of  the  main  entrance  to  the  park,  cont>^^ 
an  island  with  a  pretty  shrine  dedicated  to  the  Goddess  Ber^^^^^ 
and  a  handsome  granite  bridge  referred  to  by  sentime^^^J^ 
folks  as  the* moon-gazing  bridge.*  In  Aug.  the  water  is  ali^^^ 
hidden  by  splendid  lotus  blooms,  and  on  a  moonlit  night       Yug 
scene  is  singularly  lovely.  Hundreds  of  wild  fowl  frequent^       ?^ 
spot  in  winter  and  are  a  delight  to  the  children  who  come  hi"^-^^ 
to  feed  the  big  carp  and  goldfish  with  which  the  water  is  a^'^gii 
The  view  of  the  shrine  from  the  hill  behind  the  Seiyc^^p, 
Restaurant  is  very  attractive,  particularly  when  the  ^^<^^^ 
ing  maples  flame  in  contrast  with  the  greensward.   The        2^ 
bronze  lute  (biwa)  in  the  temple  atrium  is  symbolic  of^^  Jlj 
celestial  harmonies  produced  by  the  goddess.    The  briH^^f^ 
fitments  of  the  building  date  from  1911,  when  it  was  renova'^^fc^' 
The  bridge  is  reached  by  passing  beneath  the  arch  at  the  n^^ui     i 
The  group  of  buildings  visible  on  the  hill  beyond  fonna  a  p2^    J 
of  the  Imperial  University.  The  pond  is  a  relic  of  the  time  w^^J     1 
a  large  section  of  modem  T5ky5  was  covered  by  the  wafccr^        f 
Yedo  B&y,  and  Uyeno  was  a  knoll  washed  by  uie  wavei.  M 


Imperial  Library.  TOKYO  10.  Route.    201 

The  ^Imperial  Library  (Tosfio-kwan),  is  at  the  W.  side  of  the 
park,  near  the  museum  (see  the  plan),  and  was  established  in 
1885.  It  stands  at  the  head  of  the  374  libraries  (129public; 
245  private;  2,645,265  books)  scattered  throughout  the  Empire, 
and  is  a  priceless  boon  to  the  thousands  of  struggling  ana 
impecunious  students  who  draw  knowledge  from  its  500,000 
volumes  —  60,000  of  which  are  in  English,  German,  French, 
Spanish,  Italian,  and  Russian.  More  than  a  million  persons 
visit  it  each  year,  20,000  of  whom  are  foreigners.  It  is  housed 
in  a  modem,  3-storied,  vitrified  brick-and-stone  building,  semi- 
classical  in  style,  and  equipped  with  a  comprehensive  card- 
system  (catalogues  in  English)  and  many  conveniences.  Many 
newspapers  are  kept  on  file,  and  there  is  a  special  reading-room 
set  apart  for  ladies.  A  copy  of  every  book  printed  in  the  ver- 
nacular in  Japan  must  be  sent  here.  Ordinary  tickets  for  the 
temporary  use  of  the  library  cost  2  sen  (5  sen  in  a  special 
reamng-room)  for  a  single  admission.  Annual  membership  fee, 
¥5.  Only  TokyO  residents  can  take  books  away;  Rules  and 
Regulations  on  the  bulletin  board  near  the  ticket-office,  where 
application-blanks  can  be  had.  The  card-index  and  cata- 
logues are  in  the  first  room  at  the  right  of  the  entrance.  Open 
from  7-8  a.m.  to  9-10  p.m.  except  on  the  1st  of  each  month.  — 
The  large  building  N.W.  of  the  library  is  the  Conservatory  of 
Music.  That  at  the  S.W.  is  the  School  of  Art.  —  A  few  min. 
walk  S.  of  this  is 

The  ^Zoological  Garden  {DdbiUstiren)j  with  an  assemblage 
of  animals  ranging  from  polar  bears  to  wallabies.  The  uneven 
character  of  the  hillside  over  which  the  inclosure  (open  all  day; 
admission,  3-5  sen)  spreads,  permits  of  numerous  attractive 
terraces,  lakelets,  and  miniature  landscape  gardens.  The 
grounds  are  clean  and  inviting.  The  fauna  and  avifauna  of  the 
Japanese  possessions  are  weU  represented. 

The  *T6ky6  Imperial  Musetun  (Teikoku  Hdkuhvtsukwan; 
known  locally  as  the  Uyeno  Hakubutsukwan)^  a  gov't  institu- 
tion standing  back  in  a  wide,  handsome,  26-acre  park  with  a 
pond,  fountain,  and  many  flowering  trees,  is  near  the  center  of 
Uyeno  Park  (see  the  Park  plan)  and  is  by  far  the  most  import- 
ant museum  in  the  Empire. 

It  is  open  daily  (from  Jan.  5  to  Dec.  25)  between  8-9  a.m.  and  4-6  p.m., 
except  on  days  following  national  holidays  (consult  the  notice-board  at  the 
right  of  the  outer  gate).  Admission,  5  sen;  children,  3  sen.  The  catalogue  is 
in  Japanese,  and  but  few  of  the  attendants  speak  English.  The  only  fees  cus- 
tomary are  2  sen,  or  thereabout,  to  the  keeper  of  the  umbrella-stand  at  the 
door,  and  as  much  to  the  servant  who  provides  the  shoe-covers  at  the  en- 
trance of  the  passage  leading  to  the  new  wing  (left).  Strangers  find  no  diflB- 
culty  in  getting  about,  as  attendants  and  printed  signs  point  the  route  to  be 
followed.  Foreigners  enter  the  central  building  through  the  main  dod*; 
natiyes  wearing  clogs  must  change  these  for  sandals  at  the  door  at  the  right 
(seethe  Museum  plan).  Tickets  must  be  purchased  at  the  little  office  (^elX^^ 
outside  the  big  gate,  and  delivered  at  the  turnstile.  The  adnim\s\x«.\\oti 
building  (EngUsh  spoken)  is  at  the  right  rear  of  the  left  wins*  and  \&  ap^ 


202    Route  10.  TOKYO  Imperial  Mvmum. 

ixroached  either  from  the  outside  or  through  the  passageway  oroodng  the  eor- 
ridor  which  connects  the  win^  with  the  main  structure.  The  bic  building 
without  the  main  gate  (left)  is  devoted  to  temporary  exhibits  of  vaiiooi 
products. 

The  imposing  old  gateway  (full  of  shot-holes)  is  the  sole  surviyin|S  rdie 
of  the  original  dwelling  of  the  chief  priest  of  the  sometime  splendid  iRoaneir- 
ji  Temple  —  which  is  said  to  have  been  finer  than  any  of  the  present  struc- 
tures at  Nikkd.  The  main  museum  building,  a  semi-olaasioal  edifice 
(erected  in  1883)  of  red  brick  with  granite  trimming,  is  Alhambraio  in  up- 
pearance,  with  twin  miradorea  on  the  roof,  and  considerable  polyioil  traoeiy 
about  the  Moorish  windows.  The  newer  and  more  stately  Idrt  win|;  (jkyokn- 
kwan)t  an  lonicised,  triple-domed  building  of  graygramte  beautiful  in  its 
classic  simplicity,  is  embellished  with  two  handsome  bronze  Uons  (whi<di 
guard  the  main  entrance) ,  some  bronze  Greek  vases,  and  other  artistio  addi- 
tions, and  was  a  gift  (in  1910)  from  the  Tdkyd  municipality  in  congratular 
tory  commemoration  of  the  wedding  (in  1900)  of  the  Crown  Prinoe  (now 
the  Emperor).  The  insignificant  bronze  statuette  at  the  right  of  tiie  oentral 
pond  stands  to  the  memory  of  Dr.  Edward  Jenner.  Scattered  throush  the 
spacious  grounds  are  numerous  proofs  of  Japan's  military  successes  during 
the  Russian  War. 

The  nucleus  of  the  splendid  and  sustainedly  interesting  col- 
lection (to  which  additions  are  constantly  being  made)  was 
established  in  the  later  days  of  the  shogunate,  from  whose 
hands  it  passed  into  those  of  the  present  Gov^t.  Since  1886  it 
has  been  under  the  control  of  the  Household  Department;  its 
excellent  organization  is  due  to  the  indefatigable  energy  and 
foresight  of  Baron  Kuki,  Director  of  the  Fine  Arts  at  the  dose 
of  the  last  century.  There  are  upward  of  ltO,(XX)  articles  (2000 
of  which  are  the  personal  property  of  the  Emperor,  and  4000 
of  which  were  contributed  by  various  public-spirited  citizens) 
classified  under  the  heads  of  Departments  of  Industrial  Art; 
Fine  Arts;  Natural  Products;  and  History.  Though  practi- 
caUy  free  from  forgeries  the  collection  contains  many  copies 
of  objects  (particularly  in  sculptured  wood)  exhibited  in  other 
museums  through  the  country,  but  these  are  usually  so  marked. 
FoUowing  the  Japanese  custom  of  retiring  certain  articles  from 
view  at  stated  times,  and  either  storing  them  for  a  brief  period 
or  loaning  them  to  other  museums  in  the  Empire,  but  few  of 
the  exhibits  can  be  called  permanent;  those  in  the  Department 
of  Industrial  Arts  are  admittedly  temporary  and  are  changed 
sometimes  as  often  as  twice  a  month.  In  cases  where  articles 
mentioned  in  this  Guidebook  have  been  temporarily  with- 
drawn, if  stored  in  the  museum  godown  they  can  be  seen  on 
presentation  of  a  letter  from  some  one  in  authority,  or  on 
payment  of  a  small  fee  (30^50  sen),  if  application  be  made  at 
the  museum  office.  Nearly  300,000  persons  visit  the  museum 
each  year,  of  which  about  35,000  are  school  teachers  and  thdr 
pupils  —  who  are  all  admitted  free.  A  magnificent  collection  of 
gold  coins  valued  at  40,000  yen  was  stolen  from  the  rooms  in 
1911  and  was  not  recovered.  With  characteristic  and  praise* 
worthy  foresight,  the  patriotic  men  of  the  Gov't  are  sedu- 
loiisly  adding  to  the  assemblage  of  the  now  almost  pricelesB 
relics  of  the  early  history  of  the  race,  and  the  museum  now 
easily  ranks  (in  a  smaller  way^  mWiXXiaA.  o^  Soxith  KensingfeoB 


I 


Imperial  MuHUM.  TOKYO  10.  Routt.    203 

« 

and  the  Boston  Museum  of  Fine  Arts.  The  decree  by  which 
monastmes  and  temples  throughout  the  Empire  are  compelled 
to  make  temporary  deposits  of  their  portable  treasures  m  the 
museums  of  Tokyo,  Ky5to,  and  Nara,  is  of  great  benefit  to 
the  public,  particularly  to  those  strangers  who  might  be  unable 
to  visit  certain  of  the  most  distant  Buddhist  repositories. 
Other  excellent  features  are  the  special  exhibits  sometimes 
arranged  to  conunemorate  the  birth  or  the  death  of  a  master 
whose  work  is  shown,  or  to  correspond  to  certain  eras  or  a 
zodiacal  symbol  appropriated  to  each  new  year.  Thus  the  year 
of  the  boar,  the  crane  (a  favorite  symbol),  or  the  pine,  may  be 
inaugurated  by  an  eidiibition  of  works  of  art  in  which  tnese 
signs  figure. 

The  highly  interesting  collection  of  prehistoric  objects  is 
perhaps  imique  in  that  it  is  derived  mainly  from  authentic 
finds  made  within  the  confines  of  the  Empire.  The  series  of 
archaic  pre-Buddhist  potteries  found  in  the  soil  or  in  tombs  is 
of  great  archseological  importance.  Finds  of  this  nature  are 
made  from  time  to  time  somewhere  on  the  islands,  and  are  not 
unfreqfuently  presented  to  the  museum  —  which  alto  accepts 
deposits  and  temporary  loans  from  private  collectors.  The 
fugitive  character  of  the  exhibits  renders  it  impracticable  to 
describe  the  contents  of  the  museum  in  detail  and  be  certain 
not  to  confuse  or  mislead  the  reader.  The  men  in  charge  are 
making  efforts  properly  to  classify  and  label  the  more  or  less 
permanent  objects,  and  to  add  bi-lingual  annotations  that  will 
help  the  stranger  to  a  proper  understanding  of  them. 

The  collections  of  porcelains  and  pictures  are  incomplete, 
and  are  inferior  to  those  of  certain  private  collectors;  neither 
are  representative  of  the  evolution  and  development  of  these 
great  arts  in  Japan,  and  in  neither  are  there  many  rare  or 
precious  examples.  In  these,  as  well  as  in  its  collection  of 
sculptures,  the  Tokyo  Museum  is  inferior  to  those  of  Kyoto 
and  Nara.  The  paucity  of  the  widely  famous  color-prints 
(p.  ccxxxi),  now  so  much  admired  abroad,  is  due  in  a  measure 
to  foreign  appreciation  of  their  rare  worth.  While  the  Japan- 
ese were  regarding  the  best  work  of  the  inimitable  Hokuaaij 
Hiroshige,  and  other  native  artists  as  mere  playthings  for. 
children,  and  unworthy  to  be  ranked  with  the  national  arts  of 
Europe  and  the  West,  connoisseurs  of  those  countries  were 
showing  their  conception  of  their  value  by  diligently  collecting 
them.  When  the  Japanese  a^oke  to  this  fact  many  of  the 
finest  specimens  had  been  expatriated  beyond  recall. 

The  Entrance  Hall  has  for  its  largest  object  an  equestrian 
statue  in  plaster  (copy  of  the  one  in  bronze,  in  the  yard  of  the 
Staff  Office)  of  the  late  Prince  Arimgawa.  The  huge  and  fan- 
tastically decorated  drum  backed  by  a  sort  of  tall  ^ded  man- 
dorla  covered  with  Buddhist  symbols,  which  uau^AW  %\ASkdA 
fust  within  the  entrance  at  the  left,  was  formerly  \iBea  Oiiiw^^ 


204    Route  10.  TOEYO  Imperial  M\ 


ciaj  festival  occasions  and  is  an  alleged  copy  of  the  origfaial  J 
from  the  Dragon  Palace  at  the  bottom  of  the  sea!  The  smaOcr  r: 
drums,  palanquins,  and  archsBologicfil  fragments  are  of 
special  interest.  Turning  to  the  left  (of  the  entrance)  we 
ter  (consult  the  accompanying  plan) 

Room  I,  with  a  fine  and  extensive  collection  of  ancient  an 
modem  bronzes,  damascene  and  other  metal  pieces,  enrichef: 
here  and  there  with  some  notable  specimens  of  Chinese  10th — . 
cent.  work.  The  inlaid  bronzes  (pajrticularly  the  gold*^ron» 
with  damascening)  are  excellent  examples  of  a  difficult  crafi 
in  which  the  Japanese  excel.  The  ancient  metal  nurnnrs, 
which  there  are  a  number,  are  partly  of  Chinese  (14th  cent.  ^ 
and  partly  Korean  origin;  as  are  also  the  curious  old  beUs^ 
The  various  specimens  of  sword-furniture  are  ancient  anc 
modem. 

Room  2  contains  many  authentic  sculptured  wood  figures 
so  highly  prized  as  to  be  considered  national  treasures; jpromi* 
nent  among  them  is  a  large  but  daintily  slender,  gold-necked, 
seated  figure  of  an  Indian  goddess,  with  a  disk  at  the  back^  tiie 
right  leg  crossed  over  the  left  knee,  and  the  right  hand  lifted 
to  the  face.   There  is  little  subtlety  and  less  charm  in  tide 
vermiculated  figure  (which  came   from   the  HdryHjij  near 
Nara),  the  chief  interest  of  which  lies  in  the  fact  that  it  is  of 
7th-cent.  workmanship  and  that  it  represents,  with  its  manifest 
Hindu  character,  one  of  the  earliest  specimens  of  native  sculp- 
ture after  the  introduction  of  Buddhism,  —  perchance  tfc 
first  lisping  of  the  new  art  in  Japan.  Many  statuesque  carved 
and  gilded  figures  in  a  standing  or  seated  attitude  are  ranged 
round  the  room,  some  in  glass  cases  and  all  badly  mauled  oy 
the  hand  of  time.  Noteworthy  among  them  are  two  splendid 
Buddhas  of  fine  wood  covered  with  gold  foil,  crowned  ami 
be  jeweled,  and  on  intricately  carved  bases.    Both  (the  prop- 
erty of  Count  Tanaka)  are  superb  examples  of  the  flourishing 
art  of  the  Ashikaga  period,  and  they  are  among  the  best  that 
the  traveler  will  see  in  Japan.    The  magnificently  carved  and 
gilded  mandorlas  which  back  them,  each  displasdng  six  flying 
tennirif  sculptured  in  bold  relief,  are  executed  with  a  skill  no 
whit  inferior  to  the  best  effort  of  Jos4  Churriguera,  A  curious 
Eleven-faced  Kwannon,  life-size,  with  tarnished  jewels  on  her 
sometime  gilded  breast,  stands  in  the  same  case  with  one  of  the 
Buddhas,  and  dates  from  the  9th  cent.  The  misshapen,  cajrved, 
colored,  and  lacquered  wood  figure  (dating  from  the  Kama- 
kura  epoch)  which  stands  in  the  case  with  the  other  Buddha. 
and  surmounts  a  venomous  gnome  (typifving  pestilence  ana 
calamity)  is  Zdchoteriy  one  of  the  Gods  of  the  Four  Direction^ 
who  attaclsE  and  repels  demons.   The  two  flat,  pierced,  ana 
sculptured  wood  panels  framed  against  a  white  groundi  in 
one  of  the  wall-cases,  are  celebrated  pieces  ascribed  to  KM' 
Daishi;  ih^  other  ten  that  complete  the  original  twelve  are  la 


Imperial  Museum.  TOEYO  10.  RchOe.    205 

the  Nara  Museum.  In  other  cases  in  the  room  are  a  host  of 
wood  and  metal  Buddhas  and  other  saints  of  the  Buddhist 
pantheon,  from  Siam,  Burma,  China,  India,  and  Tibet.  Some 
are  himg  with  tarnished  dingle-dangles.  Others  are  clad  in 
gracefully  flowing  draperies  delicately  carved  out  of  the  wood, 
and  all  are  more  or  less  interesting  examples  of  early  crafts- 
manship. The  small  12th-cent.  figures  of  colored  and  lacquered 
^wood  ascribed  to  Urikei  are  more  likely  copies  of  the  originals 
^t  Nara.   A  strikingly  handsome  16th-cent.  sculptured  wood 
:figure  of  Skaka  {Sakya-^muni)  stands  on  a  finely  colored  wood 
l>ase  in  one  of  the  cases  and  is  well  worth  lookingat,  as  it  is 
"the  finest,  in  point  of  decoration,  in  the  room.   The  superb 
<irapery  is  picked  out  in  an  amazingly  delicate  and  intricate 
pattern  of  gold-lacquer,  and  this  design  runs  quite  round  the 
£gure,  the  forehead  of  which  is  sidomed  with  a  white  and  a 
pink  crystal  boss.   The  features  have  a  strong  Hebrew  cast, 
and  the  flame-tipped  mandorla  bears  Sanscrit  characters.  The 
very  ancient  seated  wood  figure  of  a  fierce  deity  backed  by  a 
flaming  mandorla  is  Fudo,  and  the  other  big  one  in  the  same 
case,  Jizo;  both  are  fine  specimens  of  the  Fujiwara  epoch. 
Another  statue  worth  noting  is  that  of  the  willowy,  sylph-like 
Arya  Avalokitesvara  —  8th-cent.  copper  work.   Also  a  richly 
chased  and  sculptured  figure  of  Ootama  Buddha^  with  a  face 
which  was  formerly  covered  with  bright  gold  foil,  but  which 
has  turned  black  with  extreme  age.  The  crudely  carved  but 
highly  prized  figurine  of  the  Empress  Jingo  (the  alleged  in- 
vader of  Korea  in  a.d.  200)  perhaps  dates  from  the  3d  or  4th 
cent,  of  the  Christian  era.  A  fine  Hindu  trimurtiy  with  a  face  of 
Vishnu  at  the  right,  Siva  at  the  left,  and  Brahma  in  the  middle, 
is  sometimes  displayed  in  this  room. 

Room  3  is  devoted  to  an  interesting  assortment  of  miscel- 
laneous articles;  the  cases  full  of  carved  wood  masks  used 
anciently  in  the  sacred  dances  are  perhaps  the  most  worth 
inspecting;  those  of  plain,  unpainted  wood  are  early  specimens 
of  the  Tempyo  era  (8th  cent.)  The  finest  (those  usually  em- 
ployed in  the  classic  No  dance)  are  lacquered  in  flesh  tints  of 
various  shades,  and  express  many  degrees  of  human  emotion. 
Some  show  furious  faces  with  veins  like  swollen  whipcord; 
others  grimace,  look  calm,  agonized,  comic,  or  angry,  and  not 
a  few  display  the  hand  of  a  master  in  their  construction. 

Room  4  has  a  superb  collection  of  modern  carvings  in  ivory, 
wood,  lacquer,  shell,  and  inlaid  work.  The  comer  closet 
entirely  covered  witn  arabesque  and  intricate  tracery  is  of 
Indian  origin.  The  netsukes  exemplify  a  handicraft  in  which 
the  Japanese  display  noteworthy  manual  skill  and  subtlety. 
The  assortment  of  musical  instruments  is  incomplete. 

Room  5.  Old  and  modem  lacquer  and  inlay  work  —  much 
<rf  the  latter  of  Chinese  provenience,  and  resembling  the  ^*e&\> 
intarda.  The  specimens  of  Pekin  lacquer,  thoug|h  me,  axeoxxV 


206    RaiOe  10.  TOEYO  Imperial 

classed  by  those  in  the  Okura  Museum  (p.  160).  A  noteworthy 
object  is  the  remarkably  well-preserved  chest(the  property  of  l 
the  Mikado)  covered  with  madreperl  inlay  and  (UttiDg  noam 
the  7th  cent.  It  perhaps  came  originally  from  Korea,  as  thev£ 
is  a  similar  specimen,  indubitably  of  Korean  craftsmanship  * 
in  the  Seoul  Museum  (Rte,  46).  For  nearly  a  mlllftnnniw  it- 
was  a  prized  rehc  in  the  Horyuji.  Despite  its  great  age  the  in^ 
laid  phoenixes  and  medallions  are  intact,  and  are  remarkablai 
examples  of  a  nice  skill  in  workmanship  but  little  inferior  tcz 
that  of  to-day.  The  Q.A.  Shaw  collection  of  lacquer  (now  ihm 
property  of  the  museum)  embraces  a  number  of  good  ISth-oent^ 
pieces,  some  in  the  oft-copied  style  of  Korinf  with  superim^- 
posed  pewter  insets.  The  excellent  copies  of  ISth-cent.  worlc, 
particularly  that  showing  mother-of-pearl  in  a  gold  ground,  i0 
imitation  of  the  style  known  as  Fusenryoy  are  interesting.  Th« 
almost  imperishable  nature  of  good  gold-lacquer  is  exemplifiec/ 
in  the  exhibit  which  shows  portions  of  the  lot  (of  fine  17th- 
cent,  work)  sent  by  Japan  to  the  International  Exposition  at 
Vienna.   On  the  return  voyage  the  S.S.  Nile  (of  the  FYtencb 
Mail)  that  bore  them  was  lost  off  the  Leu  coast,  and  the  articles 
remained  uninjured  at  the  bottom  of  the  sea  from  F^.  29, 
1874,  to  July  18,  1875,  when  they  were  recovered.   The  best 
lacquered  objects  in  the  room  are  perhaps  the  beautifulh 
colored  boxes  (18th-cent.  work  by  Ogawa  Ritsito)  with  rabed 
work  in  lacquer  and  porcelain,  both  of  which  show  in  a  hi^y 
interesting  way  the  possibilities  of  the  medium.  The  writmg- 
box  (for  paper)  portrays  the  Chinese  Emperor  HHian-Tsyng, 
and   Yang  Tai-cMn;  the  companion  one  (for  the  ink-stone) 
depicts  the  lissome  and  fascinating  HsiShih  looking  at  her 
reflection  in  a  mirror.  Ogata  Korin  has  some  masterful  pieces 
here,  and  modem  craftsmen  stand  before  the  cases  ana  copy 
his  intricate  and  alluring  designs  in  much  the  same  way  tl^t 
amateur  painters  cop^  the  pictures  in  European  galleries.  The 

fold-lacquered  box  with  a  black  eagle  on  the  top,  by  Kcyikawa 
(18th  cent.)}  is  worth  looking  at;  also  the  small  framed  oval 
picture  (in  one  of  the  wall-cases)  done  in  madreperl,  and  show- 
ing Louis  XVI  working  at  the  bench  as  a  locksmith. 

Room  6  is  dedicated  to  (uninteresting)  engravings,  embrmd- 
eries,  tapestries,  old  prints,  and  what-not.  —  (Sossing  the 
rear  of  tne  entrance  hall  we  enter 

Room  7,  with  a  collection  of  mineral  specimens  and  pictures 
of  mines  and  appurtenances  similar,  but  inferior,  to  the  display 
in  the  Mineral  Museum  described  at  p.  232.  The  huge  petrified 
ivory  tusk  covered  with  barnacles  was  evidently  brought  up 
from  the  bottom  of  the  ocean :  the  kindred  relics  —  tusks  oi 
mammoths,  plaster  casts  of  prehistoric  animals,  and  the  like  -^ 
need  not  detain  the  traveler.  Among  the  mineral  spedmeniin 

Room  8  are  some  meteorites  worth  looking  at.  The  wai 
models  of  plants  in  Room  9  are  chiefly  for  educational  woik 


Imperial  Museum.  TOKYO  10,  Bouie.    207 

Jitooin  zo  contains  niany  specimens  of  the  exceptionally  rich 
onarine  flora  of  the  Japanese  coasts. 

Room  II  has  a  varied  collection  of  stuffed  birds  from  Japan 
And  her  island  possessions,  with  others  from  the  South  Sea  Is. 
Most  notewortny  among  the  indigenous  fowls  are  the  hand- 
some long-tailed  Gallua  iBankiva  Domesticus  from  Tosa  Prov- 
ince. The  tail  feathers  of  the  cockerels  ifln^dari)  are  phenome- 
xitJly  long,  one  measuring  14  ft.  6  in.,  another,  11  ft.  9  in. 

The  Tosa  (or  Brocade)  Fowls,  from  Shikoku  Is.,  are  of  various  hues 
<8oinetimes  pure  white)  and  are  produced  by  careful  selection  and  in-breed- 
\ng.  The  birds  are  oblicped  to  sit  on  high,  narrow  perches,  and  are  fed  on  rice 
and  vegetables.  The  tail  feathers  are  never  moulted;  those  of  the  hen  {men- 
Hor%)  are  usually  a  trifle  shorter  than  those  of  her  extraordinary  mate. 
Exceptional  cockerels  are  said  to  sometimes  produce  tails  15-18  ft.  long  I 
liVlien  a  fowl  is  taken  out  for  exercise  a  man  holds  up  the  tail  to  prevent  its 
being  soiled  or  mutilated. 

Conspicuous  among  the  birds  are  some  stuffed  specimens 
of  the  splendid  long-tailed  Argus  pheasant;  the  iridescent 
Reeves's  pheasant;  the  golden,  Amherstian,  and  others  — 
some  from  China  and  some  from  Japan.  The  reptilia  in  this 
room  lack  interest. 

Room  12  has  many  cases  of  stuffed  animals  ranging  in  size 
from  mice  to  giraffes;  the  repulsively  grotesque  bat  {komori) 
from  the  Bonin  Islands,  with  a  body  as  large  as  a  good-sized 
pullet  and  a  spread  of  naked,  membranous  wing  3  ft.  across,  is 
mteresting  in  that  the  Japanese  claim  the  folding  fan  was 
evolved  from  the  idea  suggested  by  the  wings  of  this  flying 
manimal.  Live  specimens  of  the  native  and  Korean  bears  shown 
here  may  be  seen  in  the  near-by  Zoo. 

Room  13,  which  completes  the  exhibits  on  the  ground  floor, 
contains  mineral  specimens,  pictures,  and  working-models  of 
antic[ueand  modem  mines;  maps  showing  the  mineral  distribu- 
tion m  Japan;  rock-crystaJs  in  the  rough;  many  ore  samples; 
and  a  host  of  things  interesting  chiefly  to  mineralogists. — 
Ascending  the  winding  stair  at  the  right,  we  reach,  on  the  up- 
per landing. 

Room  14,  with  a  limited  but  interesting  collection  of  vehicles 
illustrating  methods  of  transportation  during  the  days  of  the 
shogunatef  prior  to  the  introduction  of  the  jinriki  and  other 
Western  ideas.  Among  the  ponderous  objects  are  imperial  carts, 
palanquins,  models  of  state  barges  and  other  ships,  etc.  The 
red-and-gilt  model  or  a  double-decked  ship  with  many  oars 
(called  the  Tenchi  Maru,  or  ^Ship  of  Heaven  and  Earth')  is 
not  unlike  a  Long  Island  Sound  boat.  The  cumbersome  palan- 
quins (hdren)y  surmounted  by  stiff,  brass  phoenixes,  belonged 
to  long  dead  mikados.  The  smaller  and  daintier  ones  (nori- 
mono),  more  like  a  sedan-chair  in  shape,  were  the  gold-lacquered 
conveyances  of  the  sometime  grand  dames  of  the  shoguns  and 
daimyos;  when  passing  through  the  seaport  towns  men  wet^ 
wont  to  carry  them,  but  maids  are  said  to  havi5  perfoTUv^  \jQfe 


208    Route  10.  TOKYO  ImperM  M\ 


arduous  service  on  the  mt.  roads  of  the  interior.  The  _ 
awkward  carts  (goshoguruma)  almost  as  large  as  a  native  hCMue, 
ornamented  with  tasteless  geometrical  designs,  and  with  wide- 
spread thills,  belonged  to  royalty  and  were  orawn  by  cattle. 
The  very  elaborate  modem  one  (which  may  be  here  or  in  the 
entrance  hall  below)  is  the  Jusha  used  at  the  funeral  cere- 
monies of  the  Emperor  Mvisuhito. 

Rooms  15  to  18  contain  interesting  collections  of  ooetumes, 
implements,  and  other  articles  used  in  the  daily  lives  a[  Kore- 
ans, Formosans,  Ainus,  and  the  Loochoo  and  South-Se& 
Islanders;  the  curious  feather  coats  of  the  latter  are  inferior  to 
the  similar  work  of  the  Hawaiians  and  Aztecs.  Most  of  the 
Formosan  exhibits  refer  to  the  Chinese  immigrants  rather  than 
to  the  aboriginals  of  that  island.  There  is  a  small  collection  of 
fish-skin  coats  from  Russian  Asia;  boomerangs;  clubs,  krises, 
and  other  war-implements  of  the  Polynesian  and  Australasian 
tribes;  odd  bits  of  Pueblo  Indian  (U.S.A.)  pottery;  some  rag 
figures  from  Mexico;  and  some  nephrite  axes  (prehistoric 
Japanese)  that  are  counterparts  of  similar  tools  found  in  the 
Mixtec  and  Zapotec  Indian  tombs  of  Southern  Mexico!  In 
Room  19  are  some  Egyptian  relics  —  mummies  and  the  Uke; 
and  in  Rooms  20  and  21  more  South-Sea  Islands,  things,  a 
collection  of  coins,  toys,  and  other  native  objects.  From  the 
balcony  of  Room  22  —  where  there  is  a  comprehensive  assort- 
ment of  musical  instruments  —  one  may  enjoy 'a  good  view  of 
the  museum  grounds.  Room  23  contains  lacquer^  articles  of 
no  particular  interest. 

Rooms  24-25  exhibit  a  number  of  highly  interesting  life- 
size  figures  of  shogunsy  warriors,  archers,  hunters,  musi- 
cians, and  the  like,  begirt  with  the  weapons,  surrounded  by 
many  articles,  and  clad  in  the  gorgeous  habihments  of  the 
epocns  in  which  they  lived.  A  dappled  gray  horse  tricked  out 
with  wonderful  war-panoply  stands  in  one  corner  of  the  room, 
and  in  a  big  wall-case  in  room  25  there  is  a  fetching  little  maic 
fashioned  with  amazing  fidelity  to  nature  and  clad  m  beautifvkZT 
raiment,  sitting  by  the  utensils  formerly  employed  in  the 
punctilious  cha-no-yu  (tea)  ceremony.  From  a  picturesqv^L^ 
and  historical  viewpoint  the  exhibit  is  noteworthy.  Room  "afi 
contains  a  miscellaneous  assortment  of  clothing,  masks,  con* 
sical  instruments,  and  the  like.  Room  27  has  war-impleme^^^ 
and  costumes,  and  some  splendid  armor,  swords,  and  spea^^^* 

Room  28  is  of  peculiar  interest  to  foreigners  because  <rf  '^ 
collection  it  contains  of  objects  associated  with  the  intro(^K^^5 
tion  of  Christianity  into  Japan,  and  their  suggestion  of  _^ 
momentous  and  sanguinary  consequences  of  that 
dental  adventure.  There  are  several  cases  filled  with  the 
dening  relics  of  certain  of  the  unfortunate  friars  who 
death  and  a  distressful  martyrdom  in  the  holy  cause, 
others  are  displayed  some  of  the  methods  adopted  by 


Imperial  Museum.  TOKYO  10,  Bmite.    209 

Japanese  to  annul  the  effects  of  their  aeelous  teachings.  Time- 
stained  (and  indubitably  tear-stained)  amulets;  pathetic 
little  bronze,  gold,  madreperl  and  other  crucifixes  bearing  the 
figure  of  the  blessed  Saviour;  rosaries,  porcelain  figurines,  and 
diminutive  oil  paintings^  of  the  Madonna  and  Child;  little 
parchment  prayer-booEs  in  Latin,  Portuguese,  Spanish,  and 
Japanese;  foreign  coins  found  in  the  pockets  of  crucified  priests; 
and  a  host  of  miscellaneous  personal  belongings  are  seen  along 
with  the  celebrated  tramplm^-boards  (fumie)  which  the  for- 
eigners (as  well  as  Japanese)  m  Nagasaki  and  elsewhere  were 
required  by  the  authorities  to  trample  upon  as  evidence  that 
they  did  not  belong  to  the  Christian  sects.  Some  of  them  are  of 
metal,  others  of  wood,  an  inch  or  more  thick  and  about  6  by  10 
in.  in  size,  with  insets  of  Christ  in  various  attitudes  —  the  De- 
scent from  the  Cross;  as  he  stood  before  Pontius  Pilate;  as  he 
himg  on  the  cross;  and  so  on;  as  well  as  others  showing  the 
Virgin  Mary  and  the  Child  Jesus.  Here  also  is  a  long  letter 
written  by  Date  Maaamune  to  the  Pope,  in  1614.  Hard  by  is  a 
biggish  chapel  bell,  of  bronze,  with  the  date  1577  on  it.  In  the 
same  case  with  it  are  two  of  the  notorious  sign-boards  {kosatsu) 
with  their  warnings  to  the  people  against  practicing  the  doc- 
trines of  the  *  Depraved  Sect.'  On  one  a  reward  is  offered  for 
information  against  those  who  practice  the  Christian  religion 
(KirishitanshiOf  with  the  date  of  the  5th  month  of  the  1st 
year  of  the  Shotokuera  (the  year  of  Our  Lord,  1711).  Another 
bears  the  date  of  the  3d  month,  4th  year  of  Keid  (1868). 
Translated,  the  text  (which  is  in  raised  letters)  reads:  *  The 
practice  of  the  perverse  Christian  reUgion  is  severely  prohib- 
ited. Suspected  persons  are  to  be  denounced.  Awards  shall  be 
given.  The  above-mentioned  decree  must  be  rigorously  ob- 
served. Council  of  State.*  There  are  a  number  of  Buddhist 
relics  in  the  room,  besides  many  other  objects  of  religious 
import.  —  Descending  the  stairs  and  returning  again  to  room 
10,  we  cross  the  narrow  passageway  to  the  red  brick  annex 
containing  rooms  29  to  37  inclusive.  In 

Room  29  are  various  prehistoric  remains,  pottery,  arrow- 
heads, etc.  Room  30  is  devoted  to  a  rich  and  varied  assortment 
of  singular  old  Japanese  bronze  bells,  and  to  numerous  ancient 
objects  associated  with  birth  and  death  in  the  early  years  of 
the  Empire.   Rooms  31-32  are  upstairs,  and,  besides  articles 
similar  to  the  above,  contain  a  number  of  earthenware  sepul- 
chers  in  which  notables  were  buried;  the  images  of  men,  horses, 
fowls,  and  the  hke  represent  a  period  following  the  decree 
releasing  retainers  and  servitors  from  being  slain  to  accompany 
their  master  to  the  Great  Beyond.    In  a  glass  case  bet^  ax^ 
numerous  specimens  of  magatama  and  fcxtdotama  —  tvjtovjXax 
heads  of  chalcedony,  etc.,  worn  hy  Japanese  in  the  eaiV^  Wi- 
ligbt  of  time. 

JUwmjs.    The  ship-like  structure  with  decorated  paiv^/^ 


210    Route  10.  TOKYO  Mmiuary  Tenvfat 

the  center  of  the  room,  is  the  cabin  of  a  one-time  plea8iire4xMt 
(yakatorbune).  The  colossal  statues  of  sculptured  wood  are 
skillful  copies  made  from  originals  at  the  Nara  Museum.  Tlie 
han^ng  panel  pictures  in  Room  34  are  of  no  great  intoest;  the 
specimens  of  undecipherable  chirography  are  rdics  of  tMriy 
emperors.  The  huge,  handsomely  colored  wall-map,  litho- 
^aphed  in  Amsterdam  in  the  17th  cent,  and  dedicated  to 
Ludovico  XIV J  King  of  France  and  Navarre,  shows  in  an 
interesting  and  comical  manner  the  artist's  conception  of  the 
world  at  that  time.  Of  more  interest  are  the  painted  folding 
screens  in  Room  35,  portraying  the  first  Portingalls  and  Dutch- 
men who  came  a-trading  to  Nippon.  The  native  painters  have 
given  us  a  highly  entertaining  vision  of  these  jaunty,  swaah- 
uckling,  commercial  adventurers,  and  the  shaven-pated, 
vinous-faced  friars  who  accompanied  them  in  their  ships; 
showing  how  strangely  thev  looked  and  dressed  in  those  far- 
off  days.  The  screens  and  kakemono  in  Room  36,  and  the 
handsome  pictures  in  Room  37,  are  loaned  by  Budohist  tem- 
ples and  are  subject  to  withdrawal.  Returning  to  the  main 
entrance,  thence  to  room  3,  the  visitor  enters  the  corridor 
leading  to 

The  New  Wing,  with  8  rooms  (4  on  each  floor)  devoted  to 
temporary  exhibits  loaned  by  individuals  or  institutions.  Ex- 
traordinarily rich  collections  of  fine  old  brocade  silks,  pictures, 
screens,  costumes,  and  the  like,  are  sometimes  to  be  seen  in  the 
upper  rooms,  while  numerous  cases  of  porcelains,  crystal-ware, 
lacquered  objects,  and  various  fine-art  products  are  displayea 
on  the  lower  floor.  The  marble  rotunda  is  handsome;  tne  fine 
old  cherry  tree  in  the  yard  is  so  aged  that  crutches  are  neces- 
sary to  support  its  long,  feeble  arms.  —  Leaving  the  museum 
grounds  by  the  main  entrance,  then  bearing  to  the  left  (E.)  we 
come  to  the  broad  avenue  leading  to  the  temples  described 
below. 

The  Mortuary  Temples  of  the  Shoguns  {Tokugawa  Retbyd) 
stand  at  the  extreme  N.  end  of  the  park  in  a  fine  grove  of 
cryptomerias,  i  M.  from  the  entrance.  While  characterized 
by  the  same  decorative  delirium  displayed  in  the  brilliant 
shrines  of  Shiba  and  Nikko,  they  are  smaller  and  less  ornate. 
and  the  traveler  whose  time  is  limited,  and  who  has  inspected 
those  mentioned,  will  perhaps  not  feel  repaid  for  the  journey 
hither.  With  their  respective  tombs  the  structures  form  two 
adjacent  groups,  in  separate  compounds;  both  belong  to,  and 
are  maintained  privately  by,  the  descendants  of  the  Tokugawa 
family.  Flanking  each  of  the  buildings  is  the  office  {shamushd) 
of  the  custodian,  to  whom  a  fee  of  20  sen  per  person  must  be 
paid.  Like  the  Shiba  mausolea,  these  are  protected  by  an  outer 
shell  of  clapboarding  which  renders  the  interior  so  dusky  that 
on  a  cloudy  day  the  finer  details  of  the  decorations  are  apt  to  be 
missed.  Long  lines  of  mouldering)  moss-grown  stone  lantenUy 


if  Uie  Skdffuna.  TOEYO  10.  Route.    211 

the  gifts  of  varioUB  daimydSy  mark  the  attractive  approach  to 
the  one-time  richly  decorated  and  massive  gates,  now  perma- 
nently closed.  Time  has  dealt  harshly  with  these  once  magni- 
ficent examples  of  17th  cent,  art,  and  the  hands  of  iireverent 
thieves  have  aided  the  iconoclastic  years  in  their  work  of 
destruction.  In  general  appearance  the  temples  are  almost 
alike,  the  one  in  the  E.  inclosure  being  known  as  Dairdchi  0- 
Tamayaf  and  that  in  the  W.,  Dal-ni  O^Tamaya,  The  latter  is 
the  most  ornate  and  best  pres^^ed.  So  many  nightingales 
nest  in  the  lofty  cryptomerias  near  by  that  the  Japanese  call 
the  spot  Uguisyrddni.  or  Nighting^e  Valley. 

Passing  through  tne  outer  doorway  the  traveler  finds  him- 
self in  a  long  colonnade  whose  one-time  rich  coloring  and  crisp 
carvings  are  now  faded  and  vermiculated  —  mere  shadows  of 
former  grandeur.  Sixteen  square,  uprights  sheathed  in  t»x)nze 
sockets  support  the  roof,  from  which  pend  a  double  line  of 
bronze  lanterns,  the  gifts  of  daimyds.  Massive  bronze  lanterns 
and  a  disused  bell-tower  are  the  chief  features  of  the  inclosure 
at  the  left,  where  there  are  a  number  of  granite  bases  whence 
other  bronze  lanterns  were  taken  to  be  cast  into  cannon  during 
the  battles  for  the  Restoration  (of  the  Mikado).  Evidence  of 
the  great  beauty  of  the  structure  when  it  was  new  is  shown 
iby  the  many  bits  of  gold  foil  that  still  cling  to  the  copper- 
Ibronze  imbrications  of  the  roof  —  which  perhaps  at  one  time 
ivas  entirely  covered  with  the  yellow  metal.  The  many  com- 
pound brackets  which  support  the  sanctuary  roof  show  all  the 
colors  of  the  rainbow,  now  softened  by  time  and  exposure. 
Much  of  the  gold  has  been  rubbed  off  the  swinging  doors,  and 
the  red  lacquer  shows  underneath.  In  lieu  of  capites  the  up- 
xight  columns  carry  many  folds  of  intricate  diaper-work  and 
.arabesques,  painted  to  imitate  rich  hangings,  and  bearing  a 
«lo8e  resemblance  to  fine  old  brocade.  Almost  every  inch  of 
the  surface  of  the  cross-beams  is  adorned  with  polychromatic 
^enrichments,  the  whole  recalling  certain  ornate  surfaces  in  the 
^Ihambra,  or  some  of  the  Byzantine  interiors  of  Constanti- 
xiople.  The  ends  of  many  of  the  beams  are  sheathed  in  beauti- 
:Jully  chased  bronze  caps,  and  from  beneath  them  project  con- 
ventional lion-heads  in  brilliant  reds  and  golds. 

An  almost  endless  diversity  of  faultless  imagery  in  metal, 

lacquer,  paint,  and  gold  characterizes  the  interior  of  the  ora- 

"tory,  which  in  turn  is  but  a  faint  reflection  of  the  lavish  Orien- 

■tal  splendor  displayed  in  the  inner  sanctuary  beyond.   The 

most  conspicuous  feature  of  this  haiden  (21  by  48  ft.)  is  the 

superb  coffered  ceiling,  with  its  interlacing  twin  strips  heavilv 

lacquered  and  embossed  with  roAjwcraiwi  crests  in  rich  gold; 

and  its  sunken  panels,  on  each  of  which  is  a  writhing  dragon 

on  a  blue  ground;  fine  blue-and-gold  cloud  effects  are  features 

of  the  panel  comers.  The  wide  wall-panels,  of  single  pieces  oi 

eamphor-wood,  are  covered  with  gleaming  gold  ioA  succor 


212    Boute  10.  TOKYO 


^^^B  whose  luminous  surface  chaige  prancing  KoreaB- „ 

^^^1  work  of  some  piunter  of  tlie  iCana  school.  The  resplendent  BSA 

^^H  of  the  abbot,  with  its  many  fitmenta,  occupies  the  ' ''' 

^^^H  room  and  is  worth  looking  at. 
^^^1  The  connecting  corridor,  from  which  all  but  the  BhqgMmi 

^^^1  the  richest  of  the  great  feudal  barons  of  hia  time  were  baiKd,  U 

^^^H  12  ft.  wide  and  24  ft.  long,  with  decorations  similar  to  tbondl 

^^^1  the  oratory,  but  with  a  cofTereil  ceiling  showing  wbUe  ud 

^^^H  blade  phcenixea  on  the  gold  ground  of  the  sunken  panda,  and 

■  t-'"       '"'""""""  ^^■"""' "'""" 

■  ° 

^v  ^ 


cloud  effects  at  their  comers.  The  maflaive  doors  of  the  sa 

sanctorum  are  profNsely  carved  in  intricate  arahawHH       ■ 
patterns,  and  are  excellent  specimens  of  17th-cent.  work.  ' 

The  Honden  (21  by  33  ft.)  sparkles  with  gold  and  odorj 
metal  canopies  hang  from  the  ceiling  —  which  ie  coffered  and  I 
covered  with  a  dehcate  lattice-work  through  which  the  sheeD 
of  rich  gold  is  visible  —  and  the  gold-lacquered  shiinea  with 
their  regal  equipment  impajt  an  air  ot  ^at  opulence.  TheK 
are  of  the  3d  sAoffun, /oniisw  (who  is  buried  at  Nikko);  the  4th 
{lelauna);10\h  {Ieharu),B.ad  Uiii  (lenari).  ThereliquBfiesBK 
exquisite  specimens  of  rai^d  gold-lacquer;  teiuple-«haped, 
with  quaint  locks,  and  emblaeoDcd  with  Tokugawa  crests. 
Between  these  superb  and  now  priceless  relics  of  the  ^den 
past  are  aploodidly  carved  and  richly  appareled  figurioea  of 
the  deities  who  guard  the  august  tablets  within.  Here  also  are 
handsome metatflambeaux,  lotus-flowers,  and  what-not; while 
facing  them  are  series  of  red  lacquer  tables  on  which  eold- 
plated  and  other  incense-burners  stand.  In  a  sumptuous  uttJe 
shrine  on  the  floor  at  the  left  are  autraa,  or  rolls  of  toe  Buddhist 
scriptures. 

Of  the  several  Tomhs  in  the  garden  at  the  rear  of  the  eom- 
pouncl,  the  bronze  one  (of  letsuna)  i^  worth  noticing.  It  is 
splendidly  massive,  intricately  carved^  and  surmounts  a  circii-  , 
lac  granite  base  of  graceful  proportions.  The  granite  door 
replaces  one  of  bronze  that  vras  stolen  during  the  RevolatiaiDf 
180S,  when  everything  available  in  the  shape  of  base  metal  ifM  | 
cast  into  cannon.  The  impressive  gateway  and  its  hoiHnu 
weigh  many  tons.  Sculptured  bamt>ao  phiBnixes,  and  mjfi- 
ological  unicorns,  as  well  as  illuminated  Sanscrit  char 
adorn  it,  while  above  all,  in  glittering  emblazonry,  are  □ 
OUB  Tokugawa  crests.  The  great  atones  which  form  the  inckw- 
ing  garden  walls  are  tike  those  of  some  castle  keep.  Ta  tiSe 
sheltered  spot  the  beautiful  CameUia  Japonica  blooms  extravft- 

Santly,  ana  in  their  seasons  come  and  go  the  exauisite  azaleas, 
oubfe-petaled  cherry  blossoms,  the  plum-leaf^  Bpitva 
(kogome-bana),  with  its  fragrant  white  flowers  and  han<£ioms 
silky  leaves;  audmany  oth«[  ftowera',  prominent  among  thEm 
the  purple  gloriea  o£  tlie  tteeAolus,  le<ui.Tl,  "Cot  WOa  Si&qw, 
was  a.s  passionately  ionA  o(  ftoweia  wa'cosaa  ol  >f:\&&iMkV^ 


i 


tke'ShSffum.  TOKYO  10.  BauU.   213 

membrate  the  former,  a  graceful  cherry  tree  overahadowB  liis 
tomb.  His  posthumous  title  was  Bunkyo4n.  or  'Great  Re- 
tired Moral  Teacher ' !  —  Though  almost  in  the  center  of  Uie 
great  throbbing  heart  of  20th-oent.  Tdky5,  this  sequestered 
retreat  seems  a  thousand  miles  from  its  rush  and  clangor.  Save 
for  the  hoarse  cawing  of  nois^  rooks  in  the  adjacent  groves,  a 
restful  silence  broods  above  its  centurv-old  walls  and  its  pon- 
derous tombs.  Here  in  this  sun-warmed  spot  perfumed  by  lush, 
semi-tropical  flowers,  and  hallowed  by  the  memories  Of  the 
mellow  simset  flamings  of  the  golden  shdgun  days,  the  dead 
regents  sleep  their  last  sleep,  surroimded  by  the  graves  of  those 
who  loved  them,  and  perchance  dreaming  sweetly  of  the  hal- 
cyon, never-to-be  forgotten  days  of  Old  Japan. 

Regaining  the  main  road  we  proceed  to  the  adjoining  com- 
pound, where  the  Second  Shrine  (sometimes  called  GoRyoya) 
stands.  A  second  fee  is  paid  and  the  traveler  is  ushered  into  a 
similar  cloister  where  hang  28  quaint  bronze  lanterns  amid 
decorations  that  are  almost  a  replica  of  those  of  the  Dairichi 
O-Tamaya,   The  intersecting  colonnade,  which  is  newer  and 
brighter  than  the  other,  is  supported  by  columns  covered  with 
intricate  carvines  like  those  of  Pekin  lacquer;  the  porch  of  the 
oratory  is  of  brilliant  Indian  red  lacquer,  while  the  cross-beams 
are  covered  with  rich  diaper-work  resembling  imperial  brocade. 
The  Jiaiden  is  48  ft.  wide  by  21  deep,  with  enrichments  similar 
ia  many  details  to  those  of  the  adjacent  building.    The  con- 
necting corridor  (12  by  24  ft.)  terminates  at  the  konden  (33  by 
21  ft.),  which  is  entered  through  beautiful  doors  carved  in  bas- 
relief.  The  superb  gold  lacquered  reliquaries  contain  the  mor- 
tuary tablets  of  the  5th  (Taunayoshi),  8th  (Yoshimune),  and 
13th  (lesada)  shoguns;  of  Kokyo-in  (son  of  the  10th  shdgun) ; 
and  of  8  concubines  —  all  mothers  of  shdguns.   The  fierce 
figures  which  guard  the  shrines  are  the  Gods  of  the  Four 
Directions.  —  In  this  room  there  is  an  exquisite  little  gold-lac- 
Quered,  pagoda-like  sacrarium  in  whose   duskily  gleaming 
depths  is  a  tiny  seated  figure  of  Buddha,  a  veritable  little  chis- 
eled gem  of  artistic  excellence.  It  would  be  difficult  to  find  a 
more  bewitching  example  of  perfect  Japanese  workmanship 
than  this  dainty,  jewel-like  structure  with  its  thousands  of 
polished  and  gilded  segments,  finished  and  fitted  with  the 
Bcrupulous  care  and  patience  which  certain  of  the  early  crafts- 
men knew  how  to  employ.  Such  elegant  little  reliquaries  are 
visually  intended  for  the  precious  bones  or  similar  priceless 
relics  of  revered  saints,  and  this  one,  with  its  tiny,  flawlessly 
fashioned  personification  of  the  wonderful,  mystical,  inscru* 
table  'Light  of  Asia,'  is  one  of  their  most  satisfying  examples. 
—  Among  the  granite  tombs  in  the  garden  is  a  massive  and 
beautiful  bronze  one  (of  the  5th  shdgun)  which  is  a  replica  (tf 
the  one  in  the  adjacent  compound.  The  remainder  are  acatcicX'^ 
worth  seeing. 


2tA    BouU  l(k  TOKYO  Higaski  Haiigwm^ 

The  Higashi  rEastern)  Hongwanji  (PI.  J,  5),  a  Buddhist  tem- 
ple of  oommanding  proportionfii  about  1  M.  E.  of  Ujreno  Park 
(follow  the  tramway  along  InaTi-ehd)y  in  the  Asakusa  district, 
is  headquarters  of  die  powerful  Shin-^hUy  was  founded  in  1667, 
and  is  a  companion  structure  to  the  Nishi  Hongwanji  (p.  234). 
The  present  building,  one  of  the  chief  religious  edifices  of  the 
metropolis,  dates  from  the  19th  cent,  and  stands  at  the  foot  of 
a  long,  pebble-strewn  yard  crossed  by  a  high  wall  Uiat  runs 
parallel  with  the  street.  The  twin  gates  are  less  interesting  than 
the  handsome  green  bronze,  lotus-shaped  water-basins,  on 
granite,  bases  in  the  yard.  The  several  buildings  within  the 
compound  are  dependencies  of  the  main  temple;  the  one  on  the 
right  just  within  the  gate  is  the  Taiko^o,  or  Drum-Hall,  where 
the  huge  temple  drum  is  kept.  In  the  extreme  left  comer  is  a 
kindergarten.  The  big  bronze  lanterns  on  sculptured  granite 
bases  in  the  atrium  near  the  steps  are  worth  looking  at.  T^e 
most  striking  features  of  the  massive  entrance  are  the  four 
immense  square  pillars,  cut  from  single  keycihi  trees  and  set  in 
elaborately  embossed  bronze  sockets.  Nine  bronze-sheathed 
steps  lead  to  the  upper  platform,  which  is  also  of  immensely 
heavy  keyaM  timbers,  some  of  them  4  ft.  wide  and  of  unusual 
thiclmess.  Shoes  must  be  removed  at  the  foot  of  the  steps, 
where  they  are  taken  care  of  (fee,  1  sen)  by  a  woman  statioi^a 
there  for  the  purpose.  At  the  extreme  right  of  the  porch,  which 
extends  quite  around  the  structure,  in  a  huge  hexagonal  glass 
case,  is  a  sanctified  rope  used  in  the  construction  of  the  mother 
fane  at  Kyoto.  Noteworthy  hereabout  is  the  profusion  of  care- 
fully sculptured  brackets  and  cross-beams  in  the  natural  wood, 
carrying  a  network  of  chrysanthemums,  peonies,  dragons, 
elepnants,  lions,  and  what-not  —  the  whole  ranked  among  the 
best  wood-carvings  in  the  capital.  The  white  beam-ends  show 
a  form  of  decoration  popular  in  temples  of  this  sect.  The 
immense  wire  mesh  which  pends  from  the  handsome  doping 
roof,  and  encircles  the  structure  as  a  protection  against  fire, 
gives  it  the  look  of  a  vast  aviary.  The  massive  front  doors, 
enriched  with  sturdy  bronze  nails  and  ancient  bosses  after  the 
Arabian  style  adopted  in  Spanish  cathedrals,  when  open  are 
replaced  by  paper  shoji  which  slide  to  and  fro  and  shut  out  the 
miniature  gales  that  sweep  through  the  vast,  unobstructed 
nave.  The  steps  which  lead  down  from  the  right  connect  the 
temple  with  the  Jiki-do,  or  preaching-hall. 

The  capacious  Interior  with  its  140  mats  is  divided  into  a 
big  central  and  two  lateral  naves  with  an  ambulatory.  The 
14  ponderous,  highly  polished  round  keyaki  columns,  and  the 
numerous  pilasters  support  a  network  of  handsomely  carved 
cross-beams,  and  impart  an  air  of  decorous  solemmty  to  it. 
The  usual  quadrangular  brass  lanterns,  assemblage  of  bannen, 
texts,  and  what-not  adorn  the  pillars  and  walls,  and  the  notioes 
mix  piety  with  materialism  by  admonishing  devotees  neither 


Amihaa  Rwmnon.  TOKYO  10:  Route.    215 

to  smoke  nor  sleep  on  the  mats.  The  sunken  panels  of  the  plain 
coffered  oeiling  are  of  keyaki;  the  panels  above  the  chancel 
rail  cany  heavy  open-work  carvings  of  tennin  and  phcenixes. 
The  high  altar  is  a  bulky  structure  lacquered  red  and  picked 
out  with  black  and  gold.  Against  the  gilded  walls  at  the  sides 
hang  pictures  of  Buddhist  saints;  at  the  right  is  a  posthumous 
tablet  of  Tokugawa  leyasUf  which  is  brought  out  for  special 
veneration  on  the  17th  of  each  month.  The  tall,  handsome 
black  Amida  in  the  gold^acquered  reliquary,  in  the  center  of 
the  high  altar,  is  worthy  of  note.  The  contnoution-box  in  the 
sunken  space  before  the  altar  is  big  enough  to  bury  a  horse  in. 
Imposing  services  are  held  in  the  temple  the  4th  week  in  Nov., 
in  honor  of  the  founder  of  the  sect.  On  this  day  the  men  are 
supposed  to  wear  the  special  kaiaginu  (a  sort  of  silk  coat 
anciently  worn  by  samurai),  and  the  women  the  headdress 
called  tsunokakushi  (a  peculiar  bonnet  with  antennae),  referred 
to  in  the  Buddhist  texts  under  the  dictum  that  'A  woman's 
exterior  is  that  of  a  saint,  but  her  heart  is  that  of  a  demon! ' 
Minor  services  are  held  at  various  other  times  during  the  year. 
—  The  big  bronze  temple  bell  stands  beneath  a  quaint  tower 
in  the  temple  yard,  at  the  left,  near  a  quiet  pool.  Hard  by  are 
two  stone  monuments  to  the  memory  of  the  soldiers  who  died 
during  the  Japan-China  War;  the  white  shaft  refers  specially 
to  those  killed  in  the  Pescadores. 

The  *Asakusa  Kwannon,  or  Temple  ofSensdji  (the  Chinese 
name  for  Asakusa),  a  huge  Buddhist  fane  (of  the  Tendai  sect) 
in  Asakusa  Park  (PI.  J,  5-6),  in  the  ward  of  the  same  name,  a 
short  walk  E.  of  the  Higashi  Hongwanji,  is  one  of  the  most 
popular  and  typical  of  the  metropolitan  temples. 

The  vast  inclosure  is  divided  into  numerous  sections,  one  of  which  is  a  sort 
of  Coney  Island  with  a  score  or  more  cheap  theaters,  aquariums,  cvcloramas, 
wax-work  shows, '  movies,'  and  what-not.  A  host  of  beautiful  cherry  trees 
clothe  themselves  in  their  loveliest  garb  in  earl^^  April  and  help  to  idealise 
the  lakelets,  fountains,  wooded  islets,  fantastic  pine  trees,  etc.  Innumerable 
ortflammes,  paper  fishes,  flags,  ideographic  pennants,  vari-colored  paper 
lanterns  (chdchin),  and  the  like  adorn  the  houses  and  add  gayety  and  color. 
Perhaps  nowhere  in  the  big  city  can  the  native  life  be  seen  to  better  advan- 
tage. The  tourist  should  not  leave  Tokyd  without  spending  at  least  a  few 
hours  at  this  popular  resort  of  the  proletariat,  where  no  entrance  fee  is 
chaii^;  no  guides  pester  one;  no  skin-games  are  practiced  on  the  unsus- 
pecting uitlander,  and  where  the  toys  and  catch-penny  devices  are  so  ingen- 
ious, cheap,  and  attractive,  that  the  liberal-minded  is  tempted  to  buy  out  the 
whole  show  and  give  it  back  to  the  amiable  folks  who  work  so  indefatigably 
for  the  small  copper  tokens  of  the  realm.  Instead  of  proving  an  ordeal  the 
multitude  of  people  combine  to  form  a  huge  free  side-show.  It  would  be 
difficult  to  find  a  brighter,  more  orderly,  a  more  eflfervescently  happy  and 
less  mischievous  assemblage,  for  the  Japanese  masses  possess  a  self-restraint 
I>erhaps  unparalleled,  and  only  the  watchful,  underpaid  police  discern  any 
silent  undercurrent  of  lawlessness. 

The  street-cars  (5  sen)  put  one  down  at  the  S.  end  of  a  long,  narrow  lane 
that  leads  from  the  street  to  the  inner  gate.  The  rows  of  one-story  red-brick 
shops  flanking  the  thronged  thoroughfare  are  known  as  nakannite  ('middle 
shops'),  because  they  stand  between  the  one-time  outer  gate  (burned  50 
yrs.  ago)  and  the  inner  gate  to  the  temple  inclosure.  Behind  tbiem  TUTi'^T«\- 
tBUng  lanes  so  narrow  ^t  they  remind  one  of  certain  of  the  darkBai&«Y>v- 


216    Route  10.  TOKYO  The  Bad  Fa^oda. 

wasTB  of  Toledo,  Spain.  Here  stand  scores  of  tiny  restaurants  (rydHJiia)  that 
cater  to  the  swarms  of  hungry  visitors  and  fill  them  for  a  fdw  sen  with  all 
manner  of  strange  comestibles  —  and  perhaps  a  few  microbes.  The  soapiat 
of  thousands  of  pairs  of  wooden  clogs  (geta)  on  the  stone  fl^gff«*>g  of  the  taoi- 
tral  way  is  deafening  at  first,  but  one  soon  forgets  it  in  the  attnuitknui  of  the 
small  shops  fillisd  with  their  multitude  of  tiny  toys  and  replicas  of  artides 
used  in  the  daily  lives  of  the  people.  Peanuts  and  popcorn:  fl&pjadks  and 
lolly  pops;  lurid  books  and  ohromos;  and  a  host  of  gaudy  baubles  to  wheedle 
the  pennies  from,  the  pockets  of  the  country  bumpkins  are  diqpU^ed  on  all 
sides  —  a  small  world  of  miniature  arts  and  crafts  priced  to  please  the  tldn 
purses  of  the  people. 

The  bi^  Denba-4n  Temple  behind  a  gate  marked  Dai-tan'Kut  midway  ci 
the  lane,  is  uninteresting.  The  elaborate  gold-bronce  statue  just  within  the 
first  gate  is  a  Ktoannon.  The  shrine  at  the  left  of  the  end  of  the  lane,  near  the 
main  gate  to  the  chief  temple,  is  dedicated  to  Fudd.  The  pathetic  figure  at 
the  rignt  of  the  atiium,  enveloped  in  dead  childrens*  garments,  is  the  benevo- 
lent Jizd,  The  stone  praying-wheel  near  by  is  found  usually  in  ^be  yards  ci 
temples  of  the  Shingon  and  Tendat  sects. 

Tne  credulous  believe  that  ingtoa  (the  Sanskrit  karma  —  from  in.  cause; 
and  kwat  the  fruit  or  effect)  pay  in  this  life  for  effects  produced  in  the  last, 
and  when  they  wish  to  be  cleansed  of  any  sin  they  turn  the  wheel  with  the 
request  to  Jvso  to  let  fate  take  its  course  —  the  course  resemblini;  the  per- 
petual revolutions  of  a  wheel.  (From  this  belief  comes  the  expression  so  fre- 
quently heard  in  Japan:  Nan  no  ingtoa  de  konna  ni  kuro  sunt  dard,  *  What 
have  I  done  in  my  previous  existence  to  lead  such  a  wretched  life?  *}  It  is 
not  unusual  for  certain  of  the  Japanese  Buddhists  to  follow  the  Tibetan 
custom  of  preparing  a  type  of  wheel  which  can  be  fixed  in  the  bed  of  a  stream 
and  turned  by  the  action  of  the  current.  Each  revolution  of  the  whed  counts 
as  an  uttered  prayer,  and  by  the  aid  of  this  contrivance  prayers  are  sent  up 
night  and  day  for  the  person  who  placed  it  there.  Formerly  there  existed  in 
the  Asakusa  grounds  a  huge  revolving  tower  so  arranged  on  a  pivot  that  a 
slight  shove  would  set  it  going.  Prayers  were  attached  to  the  cylmder,  which 
was  kept  almost  constantly  in  motion.  The  same  idea  (sometimes  called 
*  Wheel  of  Fortune  *)  is  expressed  in  Spanish  churches  by  a  wheel,  in  the 
felloe  of  which  a  number  of  dmall  bells  are  inserted;  it  was  set  in  motion 
during  mass  or  on  dias  de  fiesta,  and  its  position,  on  coming  to  rest,  was  sup- 
posed to  denote  a  favorable  or  an  unfavorable  response  to  the  prayer  of  the 
applicant. 

At  the  right  of  the  main  entrance,  on  a  hill  back  from  the 
street,  is  the  Bio  Bell  whose  sonorous  voice  can  be  heard  over 
a  wide  area.  Between  it  and  the  st.  are  two  big  bronze 
KwannonSj  seated  on  lotus  blooms.  The  immense  two-storied 
gateway  with  its  high  tiled  roof,  huge  boss-studded  doors,  and 
bulbous  lanterns,  is  very  striking.  On  either  side,  in  tall 
loggias,  stand  fierceljrstem,  colossal  carved  wood  Nio  (p.  ccvii), 
personifications  of  His  Satanic  Majesty;  while  to  the  left  of  the 
left  figure,  hanging  against  the  structure,  are  grouped  exag- 
gerate straw  sandals  hune  there  by  credulous  persons  desir- 
ous of  becoming  good  walkers.  The  huge  paper  lanterns  are 
gifts  from  the  local  fish-market  and  were  placed  here  partly 
for  pious,  partly  conamercial  reasons,  since  the  donors  have 
their  advertisements  on  them.  The  sign-board  high  up  on  the 
gateway  fagade  bears  the  name  of  the  temple. 

The  red  Pagoda  (p.  clxxxiii)  at  the  right  of  the  gateway, 
inside  the  temple  pounds,  is  a  relic  of  the  Buddhism  which 
filtered  through  Cmna  on  its  way  to  Japan.  The  pair  of  ugly 
octagonal  light-towers  were  presented  by  devotees  whose 
names  are  incised  in  the  stone  segments.  The  square  structure 


left  of  the  pagoda  is  the  Revohring  Library  (rimd), 
iimerous  sculptured  Dogs  of  Fo  under  the  eaves,  and  an 
receptacle  with  a  complete  set  (6771  vols.)  of  the 
ifit  scriptures.  The  square  edifice  between  the  nn2:d  and 
gate  is  the  dance-hall  (kagurorden).  The  large  iron 
[i-water  receptacles '  beyond  the  tall  stone  torii  hoard 
i-water  against  a  possible  fire.  The  two  bulky  stone  lions 
estals  Hanking  the  walk,  and  the  pair  of  bronze  ones, 
the  adjacent  Asakusa  Jinja,  a  brilliantly  decorated 
ire  with  a  red  porch,  a  straight-pitched,  picturesque  roof, 
any  swinging  lanterns.  Around  to  the  right,  behind  a 
>f  torii,  is  a  small  Fox  Shrine  with  many  bizarre  fitments. 
ig  to  the  left,  and  passing  along  the  highly  decorated 
the  jinjaf  we  come  to  a  small,  hexagonal  building  (just 
the  main  temple)  called  the  Jizo-M,  with  a  big  gilded 
ated  figure  of  that  divinity  surrounded  by  a  host  of 
r  stone  ones,  seated  and  standing  on  semi-circular  tiers; 
i  ribbon  adornments  are  emblematic  of  maternal  peti- 
hat  have  been  answered.  The  new  building  at  the  left, 
dOf  with  a  tall  sloping  tiled  roof,  is  an  annex  of  the 
temple,  where  special  petitions  from  pilgrims  are  re* 
.  The  sacred  white  horse,  the  fountain  with  its  mytho- 
figure  in  bronze,  and  the  shrine  of  Ema'd,  the  King  of 
,  with  the  commanding  figure  of  this  worthy,  call  for  no 
>n  other  that  these  bean-eating  equines  seem  curiously 
place  in  an  intelligent  Japanese  community.  The  big 
'ml  is  inferior  to  that  of  Kamakura.  The  small  red  build- 
rd  by  is  the  YakiLshv-do,  or  shrine  dedicated  to  the 
ist  God  of  Medicine  and  mitigator  of  man's  woes, 
ihis  side  of  the  temple  is  a  group  of  attractive  pine  trees 
adowing  a  winding  streamlet  spanned  by  a  quaint 
stone  bridge  and  harboring  many  sacred  turtles.  The 
Ig  bronze  lanterns  are  worth  looking  at.  The  red  shrine 
icated  to  the  Goddess  Benten.  The  Hokyo-dn-to  (*  tower 
sacred  box  and  seal')  shaped  like  a  bronze  lantern  and 
Qg  behind  a'  tall  iron  railing  was  erected  to  commemorate 
Idlers  who  died  in  the  Japan-China  War.  The  striking 
shaped  bronze  shaft  rising  near  by  from  a  broad  granite 
whose  base  is  girdled  by  massive  chains,  is  the  ChUkon- 
d  is  a  gift  of  the  people  of  Asakusa  Ward  in  memory  of 
^al  soldiers  who  died  during  the  Russian  War.  —  The 
I  walk  between  the  main  gateway  and  the  entrance  to 
tuple  proper  leads  between  lines  of  stone  and  bronze 
IS,  and  small  stands  where  a  petty  commerce  is  trans- 
in  grain  with  which  to  feed  the  tame  pigeons  and  the 
ockerels  that  infest  the  place.  The  former  are  as  numer* 
at  San  Marcos,  or  at  certain  of  the  Jeypur  temples,  and 
led  condition  of  the  finely  chiseled  lantern  and  temi^^ 
ts  is  due  to  their  careless  habits.  The  biR  bTome  \««JtAT 


218    Route  10.  TOKYO  TlmTmi^ik. 

m 

jars  in  lotus-leaf  design  near  the  entrance  are  worth  noting. 
The  prop^ties  of  the  many  tall  ichd  trees,  which-  stand  in  the 
temple  yard  (beautiful  golden  foliage  in  autumn)  are  refeired 
to  at  p.  471.  The  fagade  is  almost  covered  with  adgns  and 
inscriptions;  the  large  picture  on  the  wall  at  the  right,  showing 
two  men  and  a  ti^r  asleep,  and  a  Buddhist  priest,  symboliies 
the  idea  that  life  is  a  dream  and  that  reUgion  is  the  only  living 
thing. 

The  Temple  is  108  ft.  square,  is  surrounded  by  a  wide 
gallery,  and  stands  on  the  site  of  a  similar  structure  destroyed 
by  fire  about  1650;  the  theory  that  the  ori^nal  structure  was 
built  in  the  6th  cent,  is  untenable.  It  owes  its  existence  to  the 
ahogun,  letsuna,  and  is  a  fine  example  of  the  strength  and 
solidity  which  characterized  many  of  the  17th-cent.  edifices. 
Four  immense  red  lacquered  keyaki  pillars  set  in  bronse 
sockets  support  the  great  porch,  back  from  which  slopes  a 
splendid,  tile-covered  roof  of  fine  proportions.  The  rich  aioom- 
ments  beneath  the  king-post  at  each  end  are  worth  lool^is  at. 
From  tiie  platform,  reached  by  a  flight  of  bronze-sheauied 
steps,  one  commands  an  interesting  view  of  the  massive  ftont 
gate  and  of  the  swarm  of  people  pulsing  through  it.  The  in- 
terior of  the  fane  is  not  overly  clean,  ana  it  looks  more  like  an 
untidy  junk-shop  than  a  place  for  worship.  The  grotesaue 
figures  of  grumpy-looking  saints,  —  perhaps  so  because  baoly 
bespattered  by  the  careless  pigeons,  —  the  fantastic  lanterns, 
curious  bronzes,  bizarre  furniture,  Buddhist  sutrca,  emblems, 
banners,  and  what-not,  add  to  the  general  stuffiness;  which  is 
accentuated  in  a  way  by  the  incessant  sound  of  clapping  hands. 

Singling  coins,  scraping  geta,  and  the  general  huobub  caused 
)y  a  moving,  chattering  multitude.  Flapping  pigeons  dart  to 
and  fro,  defile  the  temple  adornments,  and  deftly  escape  cap- 
ture at  the  hands  of  the  children  who  make  a  business  (A  try- 
ing to  surprise  them.  Crjdng  babies,  yelping  pariah  dops,  and 
aihng  people  crying  aloud  to  Amida  to  help  them,  addto  the 
general  clatter.  Facing  the  middle  entrance  is  a  bronse  recep- 
tacle surmounted  by  a  prancing  shiahi;  a  fire'bums  within,  fed 
by  inflammable  incense,  and  aromatic  steam  hisses  as  it 
escapes  from  the  crevices.  A  host  of  huge  lanterns  pend  from 
the  cross-beams,  and  the  hurtling  wind  sways  them  to  and  fro 
and  imparts  an  air  of  instabihty  to  the  structure.  A  number 
of  shrines  stand  within,  and  near  them  tiny  kakemonos  bearing 
inscriptions  from  Buddhist  texts  are  sold  by  the  priests.  Cer- 
tain of  the  ideographic  banners  are  petitions  for  the  happi- 
ness of  persons  who  have  already  visited  the  188  most  cele- 
brated temples  and  shrines  throughout  the  Empire,  and  who 
now  lodge  their  concentrated  requests  here  at  the  last  of  the 
series;  others  are  handsomely  executed  by  artists  who  pray 
for  a  benediction  on  their  profession,  and  for  more  <;u8toinefB. 
^^  the  right  of  the  inner  shrine  is  a  huge  frakned  pietare 


The  Inner  Shrine.  TOKYO  W,  Route.    219 

* 

representing  an  ancient  lyric  drama  in  which  Sh^'6,  a  fabulous 
being  with  a  human  form,  red  hair,  and  a  vinous  complexion, 

Elays  the  chief  part.  Below  it  is  a  seated  figure  of  Bimvaru,  the 
elper  of  the  ailing,  with  a  bib  roimd  his  neck  and  his  face 
partly  rubbed  away;  the  figure  is  ascribed  to  the  celebrated 
r)onze,  Jikaku-Daishi  (794-864).  The  carved  and  painted  pic- 
ture in  relief  on  the  opposite  wall  represents  three  Chinese 
heroes  of  antiquity;  the  time-stained  tenrdn  on  the  ceiling  are 
ascribed  to  Kano  Ddshun,  At  the  tables  in  front  of  the  main 
shrine  pictures  of  Kwannon  are  bought  by  the  credulous  as 
talismans  against  sickness,  and  as  aids  to  women  in  child- 
birth. Tickets  are  sold  here  that  purport  to  tell  the  sex  of  an 
unborn  child! 

Albeit  the  Inner  Shrine  is  supposed  to  be  inaccessible  to 
the  general  public,  a  courteous  request  accompanied  by  25-50 
sen  will  secure  admission  and  the  service  of  a  priestly  guide. 
As  the  floor  is  covered  with  fine  matting,  shoes  must  be 
removed,  and  it  is  advisable  to  ask  some  one  to  watch  them,  as 
they  must  be  left  outside  the  sanctum;  the  attendant  who 
^us^s  them  expects  10  sen.  The  darksome,  mvstical  interior 
IS  a  maze  of  gold-lacquer,  metal  lotus-flowers,  lanterns,  figiu*- 
ines  of  Kwannon,  and  a  small  army  of  diverse  devils  and 
divinities,  all  peering  out  from  the  dusky  depths  of  their 
niches.  The  chief  object  of  veneration  (never  shown)  is  a  small 
gold  statuette  (If  in.  high)  of  the  Goddess  Kwann^m,  attributed 
(erroneously)  to  GyogirbosatsUy  a  learned  7th-cent.  Koreati 
bonze.  Every  10  yrs.  a  spurious  and  alleged  miraculous  image 
is  shown  to  the  gullible;  and  on  Deo.  13  of  each  year  a  dupli- 
cate is  paraded  before  the  uncritical.  According  to  the  legend 
the  original  image  was  found  sometime  during  the  7th  cent, 
by  three  fishermen,  near  the  mouth  of  the  Sumida  River,  and 
because  it  was  drawn  up  in  their  net,  a  crest  formed  of  3  nets 
adorns  parts  of  the  temple.  In  March,  1911,  the  image  and  its 
repository  (along  with  the  pagoda  near  the  outer  gate)  were 
elevated  to  the  rank  of  national  treasures,  and  were  made  over 
to  the  Gov't.  .The  beautiful  red,  black,  and  gold-lacquer 
shrine  which  incloses  it  —  one  of  the  finest  examples  extant  of 
choice  17th-cent.  workmanship  —  contains  9  other  nested 
reliquaries,  each  increasing  in  richness  with  the  diminution  of 
size;  the  image  is  said  to  repose  in  the  10th  and  sm^est. 
According  to  the  temple  records,  the  building  has  been  burned 
4  times  since  its  establishment  (perhaps  in  the  15th  cent., 
coincident  with  the  expansion  of  old  Yeao),  but  each  time  the 
shrine  and  its  contents  have  been  saved  through  a  special  door 
cut  through  the  wall  at  the  back.  The  guardian  figures  are 
the  Gods  of  the  Four  Directions,  supplemented  by  the  Thirty- 
three  Terrestrial  Manifestations  of  Kvxmnon,  The  two  pic*- 
tures  displaying  gold-lacquered  horses,  which  hang  at  theTV|^\> 
and  left  of  the  shrine,  were  gifts  from  the  shogur^  lemiUu,  «Ai 


220    Route  10.  TOKYO  The  Inner  Shrins. 

whose  initiative  the  present  temple  was  constructed, — 
although  it  was  completed  during  the  reign  of  letsuna.  Above 
the  lateral  shrine  at  the  right,  where  18  of  the  figures  of 
Kwannan  are  ranged,  there  may  be  seen  on  a  bright  day  a 
huge  painting  of  a  dancing  angel;  the  work  of  Kand  Yasuncim, 
one  of  the  most  celebrated  artists  of  the  old  times.  To  the 
right  is  a  shrine  to  FudOy  with  an  image  of  the  Fire  God 
attributed  to  the  inimitable  Unkei,  and  a  tall,  gilded  figure  of 
Kioannon  presented  to  the  temple  by  a  Tokv^awa  shogun,  A 
number  of  oizarre  objects  are  scattered  about  this  room,  among 
th^n  a  fine  Indian  goddess  seated  on  a  water-buffalo.  The 
handsome  brass  and  bronze  incense-burners  at  the  foot  of  the 
shrine  are  worthy  of  notice. 

The  priest  now  conducts  the  visitor  to  the  rear  of  the  main 
shrine  where  there  is  an  Ura  KwannoUj  or  rear  shrine  guarding 
thie  door  in  the  wall  through  which  the  sacred  figurine  is 
retnoved  in  case  of  fire.  On  the  door-posts  are  inscriptions  to 
the  effect  that  the  image  was  1072  yrs.  old  at  the  time  of  the 
Genroku  Era  (1688-1704).  The  big  time-stained  painting  on 
the  rear  wall  depicts  the  Dragon  GJoddess  receiving  from 
Fugen-bosatsu  (the  Universally  Wise  and  Benevolent  Goddess) 
a  fiokekyOf  or  roll  of  the  Buddhist  scriptures;  Buddha,  Amida, 
and  a  host  of  other  personages  appear  in  the  perspective.  On 
the  corridor  walls  are  two  huge  paintings  on  lacquered  wood, 
10  by  20  ft.,  and  20  by  40  ft.,  depicting  the  28  vols,  of  the 
Buddhist  scriptures. 

The  altar  at  the  left  of  the  main  shrine  is  dedicated  to  Aizen 
Myo^d  (the  Goddess  of  Love);  15  of  the  manifestations  of 
Kwanhon  stand  here,  while  farther  at  the  left,  in  a  shrine 
corresponding  in  location  to  the  Fudo  shrine  at  the  right,  is  a 
beautiful  little  pagoda,  rich  in  reds  and  blues  and  gold-lacquer, 
with  a  tiny  Buddha  inside  it.  There  is  also  a  handsome 
Kokuzo^aataUf  in  a  small  glass  case.  Farther  along,  in  a 
bulky  wall-case  with  a  metal  screen,  are  1000  seated  images  of 
Kivannon;  the  image  at  the  right,  on  a  red  drum,  is  a  Chinese 
importation.  The  large  plate-glass  mirror  (one  of  the  first 
brought  to  Japan)  was  given  to  the  temple  (by  an  association 
of  wrestlers)  just  after  the  Restoration,  at  a  time  when  it  was 
regarded  as  a  Western  marvel.  The  seated  image  of  the  abbot 
Zermin  Shoniny  ^diich  formerly  stood  here,  is  now  in  a  narrow 
room  at  the  right  of  the  main  shrine. 

We  leave  the  temple  grounds  by  the  wide  avenue  leading  W. 
toward  the  lake;  the  low  cream-colored  brick  structure  (cost, 
¥32,000)  at  the  left,  crowned  by  a  hoshu  no  tamOy  contains 
an  Indian  Buddha  and  was  erected  in  1912.  The  scores  of  tiny 
shops  hereabout  do  a  roaring  trade  with  yokels  on  holidays. 
The  pretty  lakelet  is  said  to  be  the  residue  of  the  waters  of 
T6ky6  Bay  which  once  covered  the  temple  grounds.  In  sub- 
stantiation  of  this  fact  the  locaiVy  cd^xBX^  iL%a]bMaHiu>rt 


The  YoBhivHXta,  TOKYO  10.  BmOe,    221 

(laverwort),  a  palatable  seaweed  {Porphyra  vulgaria)  which  is 
now  gathered  near  Shinagawa  Bay,  retams  the  name  because 
it  was  once  gathered  here.  On  the  W.  side  are  many  cheap 
theaters,  platforms  for  ju^ers,  acrobats,  etc.  The  loffy  tower 
at  the  right  (220  ft.  and  50  ft.  in  diameter),  popularly  called 
Ju-nir-kai  (12  stories),  was  erected  in  1890  and  is  devoted  to 
picture-shows,  etc.  The  new  structure  at  the  left  of  it  is  used 
for  wrestling-matches.  There  is  a  small  aquarium  in  the 
Koenchi  (park),  and  numerous  wax-work  displays.  —  The  low 
hill  called  Matsvchi^amay  between  Asakusa  Park  and  the 
Sumida,  is  a  favorite  rendezvous  of  certain  TOkyOites,  who 
foregather  here  in  springtime  to  enjoy  the  view  of  the  opposite 
Mukojima  and  its  cherry  trees. 

The  Yoshiwara  (PL  J,  5),  or  prostitute  quarter,  known  collo- 
quially as  NakUy  a  widely  celebrated  relic  of  feudal  times  and 
an  unusually  interesting  example  of  the  efforts  of  a  sane  and 
highly  civilized  gov't  to  regulate  (by  segregation)  one  of  the 
most  potent  and  delicate  sociological  evils  inherited  from  all 
the  ages  (and  incidentallv  to  prevent  the  spread  of  one  of  the 
most  fearsome  scourges  that  adfflict  humanity),  lies  about  i  M. 
northward  of  Asakusa  Pai'k  (rikisha  in  10  min. ;  fare,  15  sen) 
and  an  almost  equal  distance  W.  of  the  Sumida  River,  near 
the  N.  outskirts  of  the  metropolis,  in  the  midst  of  a  labyrinth 
of  dusty  streets  and  tawdrv  houses,  grouped  in  a  walled 
inclosure  (about  J  M.  square)  entered  through  guarded  gate- 
ways and  policed  by  a  squad  of  specially  picked  men.  Though 
supposedly  the  most  grossly  wicked  spot  in  Japan,  this  hand- 
some intramural  settlement  is  at  once  bizarre  and  brilliant  — 
notwithstanding  its  character  of  a  self-confessed  Sodom  wholly 
given  over  to  bawdry  and  hetaerism;  (and  to  the  mercenary 
men  of  low  morals  who  employ  the  misguided  women  for  their 
own  financial  aggrandizement);  to  the  dominating  influence 
of  courtezans  and  geisha;  to  paramours  and  panderism:  and 
to  the  small  army  of  shopkeepers,  restaurateurs,  and  the  lesser 
fry  who  meretriciously  cater  to  the  unbridled  instincts  of  the 
licentious  element. 

It  is  perhaps  needless  to  mention  that  the  Tdkyd  municipality  and  the 
better  element  of  the  capital  are  not  a  bit  proud  of  uiis  ignoble  appendage  of 
Japan's  greatest  city.  The  thoughtful  traveler  who  visits  this  spot  so  far- 
famed  for  its  ill-fame,  will  view  it  not  as  a  wanton  flowering  of  the  inconti- 
nence which  in  a  greater  or  less  degree  is  a  restrained  characteristic  of  other 
nations  besides  the  Japanese,  but  rather  as  a  noteworthy  success  in  prevent- 
ing immorality  from  sauntering,  soliciting,  and  elbowing  one  aside  in  the 
city's  thoroughfares;  from  ogling  and  enmeshing  strangers;  and  from  flaunt- 
ing immodesty  and  lewdness  in  the  faces  of  those  who  are  not  looking  for  it 
and  who  might  otherwise  remain  unconscious  of  it.  The  present  enlightened 
Gov't  has  repeatedly  distinguished  itself  by  drastic  legislation  against  trans- 
actions that  pledged  unfortunate  women  to  a  life  of  shame.  It  haa  promul- 
gated laws  dissolving,  without  reserve,  all  covenants,  and  annulling  a.\l 
monetary  obligations,  between  harlots  and  their  mastera,  axkd  it Yi&B  defiSKU^ 
that  all  capital  invested  in  enterpriaea  inconsistent  with  the  raoTai\»i^  ^o\kV<\ 
he  treated a3  stolen.  In  one  decree  prostitutes  and  geisha  WQTe  coixcAdece^  aa 
iiaviag  dehumanized  themselvea,  and  therefore  money  due  by  tYiem,  ot  Y>v 


2:22    RmUe  10.  TOKYO  The  FoMttfom. 

others  on  their  account,  could  not  be  recovered.  Severe  penalties  wen  in- 
scribed for  any  att«npt  to  bind  a  girl  to  degrading  and  dissolute  serriee  m  a 
Jordya,  or  licensed  house  of  ill-fame.  History,  however,  again  repeated  itself; 
age-worn  traditions  proved  too  strong  for  legifdation;  and  firniing  that  the 
world-old  social  evil  could  not  be  suppressed,  the  lawmakers  adu^itod  the 
middle  course  and  regulated  it. 

It  was  not  until  Yedo  had  become  the  seat  of  the  Tokttgawa  Shdounate 
that  regular  brothels  were  established,  and  up  to  1614  there  was  no  fizea  l^aee 
set  apart  for  sexual  commerce.  The  first '  red  light '  district  to  be  inhabited 
b^  these  '  priestesses  of  humanity '  in  the  ancient  capital  was  founctod  in  a 
wide  swampy  area  overrun  with  reeds  and  rushes.  From  the  prevdtonce  d 
the  latter  the  place  was  called  yoahiioara,  or  '  rush-moor.'  So  that  the  local- 
ity might  have  a  more  auspicious  title  the  name  was  afterwwrds  adroitly 
chan|[ed  to  yoahi-tDara,  or  *  good-luck  moor.'  In  1626  all  the  stews  of  the 
growmg  metropolis  were  transferred  hither,  and  among  them  many  bath- 
houses presided  over  by  Jexebels  semi-euphemistically  termed  JigokUt  or 
*  hell-women,'  chosen  usually  for  their  beauty  and  attractiveness.  In  1657 
this  *  Hell's  Kitchen '  was  swept  by  fire,  and  the  new  houses  of  the  present 
site  erected.  Later  this  became  known  as  the  shin,  or  *  new '  yoahiwara  (a 
generic  term  now  applied  to  many  such  *  Flower  Districts'  in  the  Empire), 
m  contradistinction  to  the  moto,  or  *  old '  yoahiwara.  Between  1655  and  l^l7 
the  raging,  purifying  flames  of  30  great  conflagrations  destrojred  the  unhal- 
lowed settlement.  Each  time,  and  with  incredible  rapidity,  a  Uagiat  and 
more  resplendent  one  has  risen  from  the  ruina,  until  the  final  great  fire  of 
April  10, 191 1,  burned  all  the  palatial  buildings  in  the  inclosure  and  oVer  6000 
in  the  immediate  neighborhood;  killing  an  unlisted  number  of  people  (among 
them  many  inmates  of  the  houses) ,  injuring  134,  and  causing  a  monetary  loai 
of  ten  million  yen.  The  fire  was  the  signal  for  a  national  discussion  almost  as 
heated;  but  despite  many  protests  and  siiggestions  to  eradicate  the  evil  and 
definitely  to  consign  it  to  a  merited  oblivion,  or  at  least  to  a  site  besroiui  the 
city  limits,  the  present  yoshitoara  sprang  once  more  into  being,  and  on  a  scale 
of  gilded  grandeur  outclassing  all  previous  efforts.  Building  operations 
be^an  as  soon  as  the  ruins  were  chilled  enough  to  handle,  and  the  TOkyS 
builders  established  a  record  for  speed  never  before  accomplished  in  secular 
oi>erations! 

Though  architecturally  a  medley  of  many  styles  —  coupled  with  a  host  of 
efforts  far  from  stylish  —  the  settlement  possesses  a  striking  individuality. 
The  houses  are  more  solidly  built  than  were  any  of  those  in  former  times,  and 
so  fearful  are  the  people,  that  now  when  a  high  wind  prevails,  the  local  bath- 
houses (title  foci  of  most  of  the  fires)  are  made  to  suspend  business  till  it  dies 
away.  Floridity  and  Pompeiian  voluptuousness  are  the  dominating  notes; 
flower-adorned  balconies,  stucco-figures,  tiled  insets,  and  various  caprices 
distinguish  certain  of  the  temple-like  facades,  into  which  are  let  the  often- 
times coarsely  vulgar  names  of^the  establishments.  Certain  of  the  entrances 
are  striking  and  elaborate;  resplendent  gilded  dragons  adorn  the  ceilings, 
and  great  masses  of  real  flowers  in  season  (and  artificial  cherry  or  plum  blos- 
soms out  of  season)  grouped  with  all  the  indubitable  skill  of  native  htMlicul- 
turists,  impart  an  artistic  effect.  The  libidinous  masters  of  the  houses  prae- 
tice  all  the  allurements  known  to  them  to  enmesh  the  senses  Of  the  passer- 
by. Gold,  madreperi,  marble,  rich  green  bronze  and  highly  polishe<f  brass: 
native  woods  of  beautiful  grain  and  finish;  huge  cheval-ghases;  colossal 
gilded  temple-drums;  red-and-gold  lacquer  of  exquisite  native  workman- 
ship; and  other  emblems  of  wealth  are  skillfully  disposed  to  entice  the  way- 
farer, the  while  dulling  his  senses  to  the  wickedness  concealed  beyond. 
Through  these  sometimes  palatial  entrances,  hung  with  rich  satin  broMdes, 
one  glimpses  alluring  vistas  of  reposeful  interiors;  of  lotus-pools  and  ♦inlrHng 
fountains;  tiny  landscape  gardens  and  arched  bridges;  of  cool,  flower-em- 
bowered, perfumed  retreats,  dimly  lighted,  through  which  barefooted  women 
patter;  or,  reclining  with  studied  carelessness,  suggest  Ionian  bathing-soenss 

of  the  sa 


or  other  spectacular  situations  that  disturb  the  shallow  noddle 
dously  disposed. 

The  entrances  of  the  pseudo-'  aristocratic '  establishments  resemble  theater 

lobbies,  in  that  behind  deep  plate-glass  windows  one  sees  successive  rows  of 

enlarged  photographs,  plain  or  colored,  or  full-length  pictures  d  women. 

and  landaoape  views  in  which  the  latter  figure  with  skillfully  leinwlaesa 


The  YoMwarai  T5KY0  10,  Route.    223 

faces.  These  pictures  replace  the  'dressed  shop-front'  referred  to  berdn- 
after.  The  likeness  to  a  theater  is  accentuated  by  the  box-office  which  stands 
near  the  door  and  which  is  presided  over  by  a  cashier,  or  ticket-taker.  After 
ini9>ecting  the  photographs,  and  making  a  mental  choice,  the  visitor  sidles 
up  to  the  box,  pays  the  customary  fee,  and  wlusks  briskly  into  the  house 
and  out  of  sight  of  the  c:niical  loungers  without. 

The  Niroku  published,  in  1912,  some  statistics  concerning  licensed  prosti- 
tutes in  Japan,  and  particularly  in  Tdkvd.  According  to  the  latest  returns 
there  are  48,769  licensed  prostitutes  in  the  whole  countiy,  of  whom  6000  are 
in  Tdky5.  To  this  latter  number  Niigata  Prefecture  (Echigo)  contributes 
the  largest  share,  followed  by  Tdky6,  Gifu,  Aichi,  Ibaraki,  Yamagata,  and 
Mie  Prefectures  in  the  order  named.  Fukushima  Prefecture  shows  the  small- 
est number.  The  common  price  charged  for  each  customer  is  35  sen,  of 
which  one  half  goes  to  the  employer  or  Keeper  of  the  house.  Of  the  remain- 
ing 17}  sen,  10  sen  is  applied  for  the  repasrment  of  the  loan  raised  from  the 
employer  at  the  start,  the  balance,  7i  sen,  being  the  net  profit.  This  latter 
sum,  however,  is  still  liable  to  levies  in  the  shape  of  funds  for  the  purchase  of 
furniture  and  table  utensils  and  the  residue  is  spent  on  toilet  powder,  and 
paper,  hair-dressing,  tooth-powder  and  brushes  for  the  use  of  the  ^uest.  The 
emi^oyer  provides  the  inmate's  food  twice  a  day,  consisting  of  nee  and  an- 
other dish  wortii  from  1  to  1}  sen  a  day.  How  it  tastes  can  be  better  imag- 
ined than  described.  The  woman  is  naturally  obliged  to  buy  something 
palatable  for  herself  out  of  her  own  pittance.  Her  earnings  amount  to  about 
14  sen  a  day,  which  is  insufficient  to  supplv  her  wants.  She  gets  a  rebate  of 
i  sen  for  eveiy  plate  of  fish  or  other  eatable  ordered  by  the  guests  (which 
usually  costs  them  25  sen,  but  the  vender  gets  from  8  to  15  «en;on]y,  the  dif- 
ference going  to  the  keeper  of  the  house).  The  number  •of  men  and  women 
who  sul^st  on  these  poor  creatures  is  quite  formidable,  there  being  in  the 
Yoshiwara  680  men  and  840  women,  theur  nomenclature  being  yarite  (gover- 
ness), ahimd  (maidservants),  banto  (clerks  and  menservants),  and  noAra 
hataraki  (assistants).  There  are  sixty-four  tea-houses  where  the  better 
classes  of  guests  take  their  meals  or  call  geisha  before  repairing  to  the  bro- 
thels, and  here  their  accounts  are  settled,  payment  being  made  aifter  the 
spree,  although  running  accounts  are  kept  by  some  frequenters.  There  are  a 
l^^e  number  of  eating-liouses,  and  those  dependent  f  (^  their  support  on  itxe 
custom  of  mere  sight-seers  include  40  oden-sellers,  15  dai/uku-BeHera,  and 
over  50  vendors  of  tsujiura  (small  pieces  of  paper  with  some  words  printed  on 
them  telling  the  buyer's  fortune,  or  words  supposed  to  come  from  his  sweet- 
heart). The  people  emi^oyed  at  the  brothels  are  not  paid  for  by  the  keepers, 
being  dependent  for  their  support  on  '  tips '  which  average  from  30  yen  to 
100  yen  per  month. 

No  section  of  Tokyo  is  cleaner  superficially,  outwardly  more 
decorous,  and  freer  from  ribaldry  and  pornographic  offensive- 
ness  than  the  joro  quarter;  one  who  sees  it  in  the  daytime  will 
find  alert  gendarmes  patrolling  the  streets,  and  perfect  order 
prevailing.  The  same  lanterns  and  flags  and  banners ;  the  same 
pleasing  medley  of  color;  and  the  same  all-pervading  winsome- 
ness  characteristic  of  the  streets  of  most  of  Japan's  well-regu- 
lated cities  are  in  evidence;  and  withal  a  surprising  and  note- 
worthy lack  of  the  degradation  one  naturally  associates  in  the 
mind  with  a  region  confessedly  given  over  to  unchastity.  It 
has  rather  the  general  aspect  of  a  handsome,  vivacious  bazaar; 
particularly  on  locally  celebrated  festival-days,  when  throngs 
of  sight-seers  flock  into  the  compound  to  witness  the  various 
brilliant  displays  and  ingenious  advertising  dodges  .(direct 
advertising  is  inhibited)  evolved  by  the  proprietors  of  the  dif- 
ferent establishments.  [One  of  the  most  popular  is  the  Niwaka^ 
a  sort  of  comic  play  held  on  summer  nights.] 

An  unkempt  iharou^are,  the  Nihon  Tsutsumi  QSapaii 


224    Route  10.  TOKYO  The  Main  Street 

dyke'), — formerly  flanked  by  poisonous  lacquer  trees, — 
leads  past  the  main  entrance  to  the  yoshiwara  on  the  E.,  and 
from  it  there  branches  off  at  the  left,  as  one  approaches  it  from 
the  Sumida  River,  a  short,  lively,  sloping  street  flanked  on  both 
sides  by  small  shops  and  tear-houses  —  some  of  the  latter  dedi- 
cated to  illicit  intrigues.  The  first  half  of  this  approach  is 
called  Emori'-zakif  or  Dress  Hill,  from  the  circumstance  that 
visitors  to  the  gay  abode  of  vice  beyond  are  supposed  to  adjust 
neckties  and  make  tentative  efforts  to  spruce  up  a  bit  as  the 
jinriki  whirls  them  onward  toward  the  O-Mon  (great  gate).  At 
the  right  of  Enum-zaki  is  a  small  Shinto  shrine  (a  permanent 
adjunct  to  all  such  places)  called  the  Yoshivxira  Jinja;  hence 
to  the  gate  the  division  is  called  Go-jik-ken-michi  (50-house 
street),  from  the  50  tea-houses  which  originally  faced  it. 
Before  the  last  great  fire  a  graceful  arch,  surmounted  by  a 
gilded  figure  of  a  woman  supposed  to  typify  the  Venuses 
within,  spanned  the  space  between  the  iron  gate-posts  —  the 
inscriptions  on  which  (by  a  popular  playwright)  convey  a 
subtle  meaning  to  those  versed  in  the  classic  poetry  of  Japan 
and  China..  laberidly  interpreted  they  mean:  'A  dream  of 
springtide  when  the  air  is  filled  with  cherry  blossoms.  Tidings 
of  the  autumn  when  the  streets  are  flanked  with  lio^ted  lan- 
terns.* The  couplet  refers  to  the  former  line  of  splenoud  flower- 
ing cherry  trees  which  grew  in  graceful  attitudes  through  the 
center  of  the  main  thoroughfare;  and  to  the  oddly-shaped  lan- 
terns on  upright  bamboo  stakes  which  stood  at  the  base  of  each 
tree.  When  the  lamps  were  lighted  in  the  soft  dusk  of  an  April 
night,  and  a  gentle  and  caressing  breeze  shook  the  downy  blos- 
soms in  clouds  from  the  trees,  the  scene  was  one  of  singular 
beauty;  even  though  it  showed  to  what  base  uses  art  could  be 
put.  The  charm  of  this  and  of  the  Yo-zakura,  or  'Night 
Cherries'  (a  poetic^  name  applied  to  the  women  of  the  re- 
sort), is  celebrated  throughout  Japan,  and  has  long  been  en- 
shrined in  song  and  poetry. 

The  Main  Street,  Naka-no-chOj  runs  straight  for  716  ft. 
from  the  wide  entrance  gate,  through  the  compound  to  the 
Medical  Inspection  Bureau,  where  physical  examinations  are 
held  each  week.  Branching  off  at  right  angles  are  short  side 
streets  —  Yedo-cho,  Sumi-^Oy  Kyo-machi,  and  AgeyoHmachi 
—  some  of  which  terminate  at  gates  closed  at  night  and  used 
as  exits  in  the  day-time.  Connecting  these  side  streets  (on 
which  are  some  of  the  finest  houses)  are  certain  cool,  seques- 
tered b3rways  that  recall  the  narrow,  shaded  lanes  of  Cairene 
and  Syrian  bazaars,  flanked  by  tall  houses  whose  upper  bal- 
conies almost  touch.  These  are  the  most  picturesque  within 
the  inclosure ;  at  night  they  are  rendered  brilliant  and  strikin^y 
vivid  by  the  slatted  cages  (deep  and  wide-barred  front  wm- 
dow8  innocent  of  glass),  backed  eac\i b-j  \\a  tow  of  gorgeoudy 
clad,  Wack-eyed,  enameled  lio\iria8\ltm^V\VL^^wL€^EaDKatjii«k 


Hi  ike  Yas/dwam.  TOEYO  10,  RotOe.    225 

pronoemumy  before  wonderful  dead  gold  screens  or  polished 
miirors  that  add  limitless  depth  to  the  apartments  and  reflect 
again  and  again  the  bars  themselves  and  the  silent,  eager, 
staring  faces  between  them.  In  the  morning  they  are  on;en 
filled  with  heavy-eyed,  languorous  women  being  coiffed  and 
barbered  for  the  evening  orgy,  or  with  lively,  chaffing  ones  who 
impatiently  await  the  br^aikfast  which  a  scurrying  maid  is 
bringing  steaming  on  a  tray  from  a  near-by  restaurant,  and 
who  shrill  out  mutilated  salutations  in  English  to  the  saunter- 
ing stranger.  In  the  first-class  houses,  some  of  which  are  sup- 
posed to  oe  celebrated  for  the  charm  and  beauty  of  their  cour- 
tezans, there  is  no  such  thing  as  this  hari-misei  or  'dressed 
shop-front,'  and  patrons,  instead  of  seeing  the  women  from  the 
street,  and  there  making  their  choice,  must  be  introduced  by  a 
professional  go-between  —  usually  a  woman.  There  are  many 
such  '  introducing-houses '  in  the  inclosure,  and  some  of  the 
celebrated  restaurants  and  ckayas  are  said  to  be  dedicated  to 
this  purpose.  —  During  the  forenoon  of  a  sunny  day  brilliantly 
colored  sleeping-garments  are  hung  out  to  air  from  the  bal- 
conies of  many  of  the  houses,  while  the  capricious  sultanas,  if 
not  sauntering  through  the  streets  accompanied  by  fresh  young 
women  attendants,  are  reposing  in  the  crepuscular  shadows  of 
the  inner  rooms. 

At  night  when  the  short  streets  are  a  blaze  of  electric  light, 
and  throngs  of  men,  women,  and  children  —  the  latter  usually 
with  bead-eyed,  shaven-pated,  babies  pick-a-back  —  pulsate 
through  the  settlement,  the  scene  is  as  singular  as  any  the 
traveler  will  see  in  the  Eastern  world.  Foreigners,  metropoli- 
tans, country  yokels,  soldiers,  fortune-tellers,  harlequins, 
blind-shampooers,  female  hair-dressers,  beggars,  venders  of 
rice-dumplings,  boiled  red-beans,  cigarettes,  and  a  score  of 
native  goodies,  elbow  their  way  good-naturedly  through  the 
compound  milling  with  iniquitous  humanity.  Dapper  little 
policemen  clad  in  spick-and-span  uniforms,  helmets,  and  white 
gloves,  and  equipped  with  swords,  spectacles,  lanterns,  and 
notebooks,  are  on  the  spot  to  repre^  all  coarseness  or  brutality, 
and  to  keep  a  keen  eye  out  for  brawlers,  tipsy  visitors,  or  other 
disturbers  of  the  remarkable  order  of  the  place.  Frequently 
one  hears  their  sharp,  staccato  Koray  Koraf  (lit.,  ye,  but  figu- 
ratively: 'Move  along  there  now,  step  lively! ')  shrilUng  above 
the  din,  forbidding  frolicsomeness  and  enjoiping  decorum. 
Soon  after  dusk  a  curiously  feverish  but  suppressed  animation 
thrills  through  the  place  —  a  precursor  of  the  mise  wo  haru 
(lit.,  to  arrange  goods  in  order  and  expose  them  for  sale),  or  the 
filing  into  their  cages  of  the  *bud  and  blossom*  of  the  most 
celebrated  jordya  in  Japan.  Then  the  whole  yukaku  (group  of 
visitors)  seethes  with  subdued  excitement.  In  the  more  pre- 
t^tious  houses  the  women  form  a  gaudy  a8sembl8i;g|e  \ii  a 
liobly.  decorated  room  visibJe  from  just  inside  the  entTaaaijQei 


226    Route  10,  TOKYO      The 

but  not  from  the  street.  Clad  in  gorgeous  costumes  of  silk  or 
satin  which  cover  them  completely  from  throat  to  heel;  rimed 
out  in  sumptuous  coral  and  metal,  porcelain,  or  toitoise-flEell 
hairpins  ranged  round  their  heads  like  a  halo;  with  penciled 
eyebrows;  lips  splashed  with  crimson;  be-powdered  ana  freshly 
coiffed;  these  statuesque  Eves  seat  themselves  submiaBively 
each  on  her  silken  mat,  where,  like  some  resplendent  imjperaonal 
merchandise,  she  waits  patiently  beside  a  circular,  brilliantly 
polished  brass  hibtichif  before  a  glistening  oheval-glaaB  that 
reflects  every  line  of  her  back  and  her  sloe-black,  elabcniite. 
and  distinctive  coififiu*e.  An  assumed  look  of  modesty  ana 
candor  masks  the  soul-besmirching  traffic  in  which  each  is 
engaged.  There  is  nothing  in  the  outward  dis^day  that  would 
startle  the  most  prudish.  Later,  as  one  by  one  they  are  beck- 
oned out  and  gude  noiselessly  to  some  deeper  recess  of  the 
house,  there  floats  out  on  the  soft  night  air  the  tinkling  notes  of 
samisen;  the  melancholy  thrumming  of  silken-girdled  drums; 
the  soft  pounding  of  tabi-ahod  dancing  feet;  the  swish  of  volup- 
tuous garments;  and  the  hoarse,  throaty,  contralto  tcmes  of 
artificially  trained  geisha  voices. 

Of  the  3000  or  more  tawareme  in  the  ahin-yoahkoara  (the 
next  largest  in  T5kyo  is  the  Susaki,  in  Fukagawa  Wajrd,  with 
2000  inmates)  but  few  are  Tokvo  women;  they  are  (miefly 
recruited  from  provinces  where  the  conditions  of  life  are  con- 
sidered hard  and  grinding.  Poverty,  personal  misfortune,  and 
calamities  resulting  from  eathquakes,  crop-failures,  tidal 
waves,  and  the  like  are  said  to  be  the  chief  causes  for  girls 
entering  upon  a  life  of  shame.  [Certain  Japanese  do  not  con- 
sider it  a  disgrace  for  a  girl  to  show  her  filial  love  by  selling 
herself  for  a  few  years  to  help  her  poverty-stricken  parents, 
but  rather  as  an  act  of  heroism.]  The  people  like  to  believe 
that  there  are  few  if  any  voluntary  victims,  and  that  no  one 
adopts  the  career  if  an  alternative  offers:  only  the  pressure 
of  dire  necessity  is  held  to  justify  the  sacrifice.  This  is  gener- 
ally counted  a  grievous  affliction  by  those  who  must  have 
recourse  to  it,  and  by  friends  it  is  regarded  with  profound  pity. 
The  life  of  gilded  misery  led  by  the  women  is  referred  to  as 
'the  painful  world,'  and  each  one  is  said  to  live  in  the  hope  of 
being  redeemed  (from  the  debt  owed  to  the  brothel-keeper)  by 
some  rich  man  or  lover.  Unless  this  redemption  comes  eariy, 
malignant  diseases,  premature  old  age,  or  a  suicide's  grave 
usually  dissolves  the  tie. 

Among  themselves  the  women  of  this  underworld  call  each 
other  '  sister.'  To  outsiders  they  are  generally  known  by  ficti- 
tious names,  such  as:  Little  Purple;  Faint  Cloud;  Pine  Moun- 
tain; Double-blossomed  Plum;  Floral  Fan;  Whispering  Wind; 
Jewel  River,  and  the  like.  Superior  women  are  termea  othm; 
the  principal  girl,  oshoku.  Poets  and  novelists  have  thrown  a  . 
Lalo  of  tender  romance  over  their  sad  lives,  and  many  a   I 


The  SvmidoffaiDa.  TOKYO  10,  Bouie.    227 

touching  love-story  has  been  told  and  written  about  them. 
The  women  drees  in  accordance  with  their  own  wishes  or  those 
of  their  master;  some  adorn  themselves  in  fine  brocade  silks 
heavy  with  gold  or  silver  enrichments  (and  thus  sink  deeper 
into  the  debt  of  their  exploiters);  others  affect  the  bizarre 
fashions  of  bygone  days;  while  others  yet  affect  gaudy  red 
crape  with  elaborate  collars  and  exaggerated  satin  obi  (sashes) 
tied  in  front  (the  distinctive  badge  of  shame  of  the  joro). 
Others  essay  to  make  themselves  appear  younger  and  prettier 
by  wearing  silk  crape  adorned  with  intricate  figures,  purple 
satin  collare,  and  a  makp-obif  or  narrow  sash,  wound  round  and 
round  the  waist  and  merely  tucked  in  to  hold  it  in  place.  A 
significant  f ancv  of  certain  of  these  sirens  is  to  wear  a  costume 
(long  celebrated  as  distinctively  yoshiwaresque)  of  fine  purple 
satin  richly  embroidered  with  great  six'awling  red  lobsters! 
Others  wear  plain  crested  clothes  to  imitate  special  styles  fa- 
vored by  their  first  cousins,  the  geisha  (p.  clxi).  Musk  is  the 
favorite  perfume.  The  studied  display  of  physical  charms 
that  are  usually  concealed  is  rarely  resorted  to. 

To  the  shiiv-yoshiwara  and  the  4  lesser  resorts  of  a  similar 
nature  in  the  capital  come  annually  about  1}  million  visitors, 
who  squander  upward  of  2  million  yen  on  the  inmates.  Most 
of  the  robberies,  murders,  and  suicides  of  the  metropolis  are 
in  some  way  related  to  these  plague-spots,  the  common 
name  for  which  with  many  is  doku  (poison).  Some  parents 
warn  their  children  to  beware  of  their  inmates  as  they  irould 
cayenne  pepper,  and  supplement  the  injunction  by  a  reference 
to  the  proverb, '  Pleasure  is  the  seed  of  trouble.*  Others  exist 
who  are  willing  to  allow  their  daughters  to  serve  the  yoshiwara 
inmates,  and  By  having  them  trained  in  the  arts  of  Aspasia 
eventually  dedicate  them  to  Aphrodite.  When  certain  persons 
are  obliged  to  mention  the  jor&ya^  they  prefer  to  call  it 
Fuyajo.  or  ^Nightless  Castle';  HanarTKMMmata,  'Flowery 
streets  ;  'Kutsuwa,'  etc.  The  gossamer  wantons  who  inhabit 
it  are  referred  to  as  'barren  vurgins ';  'strumpets';  and  by 
other  opprobrious  epithets.  Certain  municipal  rules  are 
enforced  rigorously  in  the  different  houses.  A  minute  descrip- 
tion is  taken  of  every  visitor  —  the  name,  profession,  height, 
facial  characteristics,  color  of  hair  and  eyes,  general  figure  and 
buUd,  style  of  clothes  worn,  personal  defects,  and  the  like. 
When  the  oflScial  blank  is  filled  in  it  forms  an  excellent  descrip- 
tion of  the  person  and  is  filed  for  reference.  —  The  numerous 
towns  of  Japan  named  Yoshiwara  have  nothing  to  do  with  the 
above-mentioned  establishment. 

The  Sumidagawa,  the  2d  river  of  importance  on  the  Yedo 
plain,  has  its  sources  N.W.  of  Tokyo,  on  the  border  of  Musasdii 
and  Kai  Provinces,  and  it  is  to  Japan's  capital  what  the 
Thames  is  to  London  and  the  Seine  to  Paris.  Entering  tbfi  fsiX^ 
fipm  the  N.E.  it  flows  past  the  Asakusa,  Nihonbac^)  aiv^ 


228    Baule  10.  TOKYO  Transpontine. 

Kydbashi  Wardd,  separating  them  from  Hon j5  and  Fukagawa 
(placing  the  latter  in  the  same  relative  position  to  T5ky5  that 
the  Thames  does  with  Surrey),  before  washing  the  shores  of 
TsuMshima  Island  and  emptying  into  Tokyo  Bay.  While  for 
the  T5ky5ites  the  river  possesses  all  the  charm  that  the  Seine 
holds  for  the  Parisians,  it  does  not  appeal  strongly  to  foreign- 
ers. The  boats  which  ply  up  and  down  it  are  small,  tippy,  and 
stuffy;  the  refuse  which  the  converging  canals  bring  into  it  is 
objectionable  to  the  senses;  the  dreadful  night-soil  boats  which 
glance  along  its  surface  and  leave  a  trail  of  grease  behind  recsdl 
glue-factories  and  sulphureted  hydrogen;  and  the  tawcty 
houses  which  backup  to  its  shores  and  insult  it  with  their  drain- 
age add  but  little  charm  or  picturesqueness.  It  is  perhaps 
prettiest  and  hveliest  off  MukQjima  Embankment,  during  the 
cherry-blossom  season,  when  collegiate  boat-races,  local 
regattas,  and  the  like  add  life  to  it.  'The  citizen's  ideal  of 
summer  pleasure  is  to  hire  a  yanebune  (a  boat  having  its  middle 
part  covered  by  a  roof  —  yane  —  under  which  the  pleasure- 
seekers  sit),  engage  two  or  three  geisha j  and  travel  lazily 
upstream,  with  scull  or  sail,  debarking  at  one  of  the  many 
famous  restaurants  that  line  both  banfe  of  the  river,  whence 
he  drifts  home,  after  dinner,  along  the  path  of  the  moonbeams, 
merry,  musical,  and  perhaps  love-sick.  These  delights  cul- 
minate at  a  f6te  called  the  "river  opening"  (kavxjrbiraJci) 
which  takes  place  nominally  on  "  moon-night"  in  midsummer. 
Tho«B  for  whom  the  f^te  is  organized  contribute  nothing  to  the 
preparations.  All  that  part  of  the  affair  is  undertaken  by  the 
riverside  restaurants  and  boat-house  keepers,  who,  for  the 
sake  of  the  throng  of  customers  that  the  celebration  brings, 
put  up  a  considerable  sum  to  purchase  fireworks/  At  this  time 
the  long  Rtogoku  Bridge  is  packed  with  spectators,  the  sur- 
face of  the  turgid  river  is  almost  covered  with  canopied  craft 
adorned  with  colored  paper  lanterns,  the  air  vibrates  with  the 
shouts  of  roysterers;  the  clapping  of  hands;  the  tinkling  of 
aamisen ;  the  tuneless  voices  of  singing  geisha;  and  the  thrum- 
ming of  unsympathetic  drums,  and  the  whole  represents  one 
of  Tokyo's  most  popular  festivals.  Boats  should  be  engaged  in 
advance.  Consult  the  hotel  manager.  There  is  a  fimayadOf  or 
place  where  boats  can  be  hired,  near  the  Ryogoku  Bridge,  on 
the  Nihonbashi  side. 

Transpontine  T6kj6  (Pl.I-J,  7-8),  a  wide,  unkempt  region 
delimned  by  the  Honio  and  Fukagawa  Wards  and  separated 
from  Tokyo  proper  by  the  wide  and  swift  Sumida  River, 

Possesses  but  few  attractions  for  foreigners.    Several  big 
ridges  —  the  Azuma-  Umaya-  and   Ryogoku-bashi    (*  two- 
province  bridge,'  so-called  because  HonjO-ku  belonged  formerly 
to  another  provmce)  —  link  the  latter  ward  and  its  dull  streete 
to  the  lively  Asakusa;  while  farther  to  the  S.  the  Shin-Ohashi 
C^new great  bridge,*  576  ft.  long,  began  \n  \^^  «cA  wsm^\«ted 


KamMo. 


TOKYO 


10,  Route,    229 


in  1912  at  a  cost  of  ¥590,000)  joins  Honjo  to  Nihonbashi-ku. 
The  Eitai-baahi  connects  Fukagawa  with  Ky5bashi-ku. 
Ryogoku-bashi  is  a  sort  of  miniature  Brooklyn  Bridge  where 
pyrotechnic  displavs  are  to  be  seen  on  summer  nights,  and 
from  which  sad  soulis  with  suicidal  thoughts  leap  off  sometimes, 
to  smother  their  dark  sorrow  in  the  sooty  funnel  of  a  passing 
steamship!  The  most  southerly  of  the  bridges  is  the  small 
Aioi-bashiy  a  sort  of  Japanese  Bridge  of  Sighs,  over  which 
recalcitrants  are  conducted  to  the  big  prison  on  Tsukishima, 
in  T5kyo  Bay.  The  Mercantile  Marine,  and  the  Marine 
Products  Schools  near  the  entrance  are  of  interest  chiefly  to 
seamen.  Neither  Honj5  nor  Fukagawa  is  noted  for  pulchri- 
tude, or  for  odors  that  recall  those  of  Araby  the  Blest.  On  the 
contrary,  the  sixtyndx  distinct  stenches  for  which  Cologne  was 
once  cdebrated  seem  to  have  taken  up  their  quarters  here  in 
the  foul  open  drains,  and  the  odoriferous  truck-gardens  which 
reach  quite  up  to  the  ragged  and  melancholy  outskirts.  The 
Fukagawa  Park,  with  its  Hachiman  Shrine,  and  Temple  to 
Fud5,  is  inferior  to  Uyeno,  Shiba,  or  Hibiya,  and  the  yoshiwara 
is  smaller  than  that  of  the  metropolis.  According  to  a  local 
writer  'many  kinds  of  fish  and  turtles  are  nursed'  in  the  Fish 
Nurseries. 

Mukdjima  ('opposite  island  ')>  in  Honj5-ku  (PI.  J,  6),  once 
celebrated  for  its  fine  cherry  trees,  is  declining  in  popularity 
with  the  better  classes.  Jinriki  from  the  Imperial  Hotel,  50 
min.,  65  «en  (¥1.10  for  the  round  trip);  tram-cai",  5  sen.  The 
double  line  of  gnarled  cherry  trees  planted  in  the  18th  cent. 
was  badly  injured  by  the  floods  of  1912.  The  pretty  spectacle 
offered  by  the  cherry  blooms  in  April  is  often  marred  by  the 
antics  of  the  thirsty  coolies  who  soak  sake  while  enjoying  the 
floral  display  and  sometimes  encroach  upon  the  reserve  of 
others. 

The  big  edifice  of  the  Dai  Nippon  Brewery  Co.,  near  the 
Azuma-bashi,  occupies  the  site  of  a  one-time  celebrated  land- 
scape garden,  the  Satake  yashiki  of  a  powerful  daimyo.  Good 
beer  is  served  in  a  comer  of  the  garden,  admittance  to  which 
costs  10  sen. 

E[ameido'(Pl.  J,  8),  with  its  Shrine  and  Wistaria  Garden,  in 
Honjo-ku,  in  a  tawdiy  neighborhood  near  the  N.E.  outskirts 
of  the  city,  should  be  visited  in  late  April  or  early  May,  as  the 
wistaria  usually  begin  to  droop  about  the  end  of  the  first  week 
in  May.  An  easy  way  to  reach  the  park  is  to  board  a  train  of 
the  Gov't  Rly.  (S6bu  Line)  at  Ryogoku  Station  (PI.  I,  7)  and 
proceed  (fare,  9  sen)  to  Kameido  Station,  thence  turn  N.  and 
walk  12  min.  The  small  temple  grounds  stand  in  the  midst  of  a 
sea  of  low  native  houses  whose  surroundings  are  without  inter- 
est. The  narrow  thoroughfare  leading  to  the  entrance  termin- 
ates in  a  handsomehr  carved  gateway  in  the  natural  ^ood, 
adorned  with  shtsht,  nsbes,  birds,  dragons,  and  wave-patteroa. 


230    Rovie  10.  TOKYO  Kameido  Gardens. 

Just  within  the  inclosure  is  a  locally  celebrated  Drum  Bridge 
(Taiko-bashi),  a  time-worn  structure  over  whose  high  hump 
devotees  climb  (liakv  with  high-heeled  shoes)  as  an  act  of 
speciid  devotion  to  the  divinity  to  whom  the  shrine  is  conse- 
crated. Ladies  usually  elect  to  approach  the  shrine  along  the 
picturesque  pathways  at  the  right  and  left  of  the  pond.  Be- 
yond the  first  bridge  is  a  second  smaller  one  facing  an  attractive 
eight-roofed  gate  surmounted  by  sculptured  dragons,  turtles, 
and  phoenixes.  At  the  foot  are  stone  Dogs  of  Fo,  and  behina 
them,  in  glassed-in  cages,  are  carved  and  painted  gods  in  the 
guise  of  zuijin,  or  the  ancient  guards  of  nobility.  The  groxmds 
are  laid  out  in  imitation  of  those  in  which  SiigawaraMtchizane, 
to  whom  the  shrine  is  dedicated,  lived  and  died  in  exile  (in 
Kyushu),  The  pond  is  called  Shinji-no-ike,  or* Pond  of  the 
Heart, 'because  of  its  fancied  resemblance  in  shape  to  this  organ. 
The  name  Kameido  is  said  to  be  derived  from  kamei  Git.,  sitting 
like  a  tortoise,  with  the  feet  spread  out  behind),  wherefore  the 
big  stone  tortoise  which  the  visitor  will  note  a  few  yards  to  the 
right  of  the  temple.  Some  pretty  bridges  span  the  narrowest 
parts  of  the  pond,  and  many  graceful  trees  overshadow  it. 

The  Wistaria  (p.  119),  which  most  foreign  travelers  come 
to  see,  hangs  in  splendid  cream-white  and  pale-lilac  clusters, 
3-5  ft.  long,  from  the  trellises  which  flank  three  sides  of  the 
pond,  and  by  reflecting  themselves  in  the  water  create  a  lovely 
picture.  Thousands  of  pendants  sway  to  and  fro  with  the  wind 
and  early  in  May  scatter  their  fragile  petals  like  snowflakes 
on  the  walks  and  the  surface  of  the  pond.  During  the  season 
many  flower-loving  Japanese  sit  on  the  broad  platforms  ex- 
tending out  from  the  tea-houses  to  enjoy  the  scene.  Along  the 
walks  are  many  tiny  shops  where  artificial  flowers  made  in  the 
form  of  wistaria  hair-ornaments,  metal  turtles,  tiny  hand- 
painted  porcelain  cups  (attractive  souvenirs,  10  sen  each), 
and  other  gewgaws  are  sold.  Many  jugglers  ply  their  deceptive 

Erofession  here.  —  The  chief  shrine  is  just  beyond  the  second 
ridge;  the  gold  screens  and  pictures  —  the  latter  representing 
certain  of  the  ancient  pantomimic  religious  dances  —  which 
adorn  the  interior  are  relics  of  the  time  when  Buddhism  and 
Shintoism  were  often  worshiped  under  the  same  roof.  The 
image  of  Michizanef  who  is  here  worshiped  as  the  God  of 
Literature,  is  carved  out  of  the  wood  of  a  plum  tree  which  grew 
in  the  yard  of  the  chief  shrine  at  Dazaifu.  One  of  the  popular 
festivals  falls  in  Jan.  of  each  year. 

The  Kameido  Plum  Gardens  ( Ume-yashiki)  lie  about  }  M. 
E.  (PI.  J,  8)  of  the  Kameido  Shrine,  and  are  beautiful  when  the 
blossoms  come  out  in  March  (the  latest  of  the  Tokyo  plums  to 
bloom) .  Many  of  the  remaining  trees  are  very  old  and  decrepit ; 
the  pleasure  of  a  visit  to  the  garden  (no  fees)  is  diminishea  by 
t^e  offensive  stench  which  arises  from  the  open  sewers  in  the 
neighborhood. 


The  Ekd-^  TOKYO  10.  Rmde,    231 

The  Hori  Kiri  Lis  Gardens  (PI.  J,  6)  are  about  2  M.  E.  of 
MukQ|ima  and  are  reached  by  jmriki  (a  special  bargam  must  be 
made  with  the  nmner) ;  the  flowers  are  at  their  best  in  June. 

The  £kd-in  fa  Buddhist  temple  where  mass  is  said  for  the 
dead'))  a  well-lmown  fane  belonging  to  the  J5do  sect  (p.  cxcix), 
is  within  5  min.  walk  of  the  Ryogoku-bashi  (PI.  H,  7)  in  Honj5- 
ku,  adjacent  to  the  National  Art  Hall  {KokugUkwan)  where 
wrestling  and  such  exhibitions  are  held.  The' main  entrance  is 
from  the  side  street,  and  the  long^  flagged  yard  was  for  years 
the  most  popular  wrestling-arena  m  the  city.  The  chief  object 
of  interest  in  the  rather  nondescript  temple  is  the  huge  recum- 
bent figure  of  the  dead  Buddha^  near  which  is  an  inscription 
to  the  effect  that:  'If  you  wish  immortality  and  a  future  hfe, 
do  not  cease  to  pray  earnestly.'  In  a  small  reliquary  behind 
is  a  sculptured  image  of  the  founder  of  the  Jodo  sect  (anniver- 
sary services  in  April).  The  red  and  gold-lacquered  main 
altar  contains  a  seated  figure  of  Amida.  The  carved  wood 
statue  of  Buddha  is  supposed  to  represent  him  when  he 
emerged  from  his  long  retirement  and  meditation  in  the  mts. 
The  room  at  the  right  contains  some  passable  kakemono  and 
several  small  shrines  of  beautiful  workmanship.  —  The  small 
white  temple  midway  between  the  gate  and  the  main  structure, 
though  closed  to  the  general  public,  will  be  opened  for  a  small 
fee  (shoes  must  be  left  at  the  entrance).  The  fine  main  shrine 
{zushi)  of  rich  gold-lacquer  adorned  with  subdued  colors  and 
intricately  carved  in  bas-relief,  is  made  in  a  style  peculiar  to 
the  Jodo  sect  and  resembles  an  antique  German  wood  press; 
all  the  panels  carry  complicated  traceries  and  figurines,  and 
the  inner  side  of  the  doors  are  of  beautiful  gold  lacquer- adorned 
with  delicately  painted  figures.  The  central  Kwannon,  a  gift 
by  the  mother  of  the  4th  Tokugawa  shogun,  is  known  as  the 
Ichv-gon  Kwannon  because  it  will  receive  a  single  petition  only 
from  any  one  person.  The  coffered  ceiling  is  richly  painted, 
and  the  two  big  Nio  are  worth  looking  at.  The  figures  at  the 
right  of  the  shrine  are  the  33  terrestrial  representations  of 
Ktoannon.  The  great  dragon  which  adorned  the  ceiling  was 
ruined  by  the  fire  of  1855. 

At  the  rear  of  the  main  temple  (path  at  the  right)  is  a  locally 
famous  cemetery,  often  referred  to  as  the  Burjdng-Ground  of 
the  Nameless  Dead.  Here  lie  untold  thousands  of  the  unfortu- 
nates who  were  burned  in  the  great  fire  of  1657,  and  those  who 
were  killed  in  the  equally  destructive  earthquake  of  1855. 

This  |Ereat  conflagration  is  but  one  of  the  many  sinister  and  similar  disas- 
ters which  in  times  gone  by  have  scourged  the  Japanese  metropolis.  History 
reooitls  that  the  fire  burned  with  great  fury  during  two  entire  days  and 
idgbtB,  and  that  107,046  people  perished.  A  common  pit  was  dug  for  the 
bodies:  priests  from  all  the  different  Buddhist  sects  foregathered  at  the 
sepulcher,  and  during  7  days  a  thousand  scrolls  of  the  sacred  bo6k.'<«i«t« 
noted 'for  the  repose  of  their  souJs.  The  immense  grave  waa  caWed  Wsa 
Jii^nciiAa  ('tomb  of  one  dead  with  no  relative  alive'),  and  lateT  tbn  \ATa- 
t^  mtteii  waa  bailt  near  it  waa  called  the  Mum-ji  (or  temple  ol  pcwoua 


232    BaiUe  10.  TOKYO  Mineral  Museum. 

without  relation  or  kindred).  Segaki  (masses  for  the  spirits  of  th^  dead 
having  no  relations)  are  regularly  held  on  the  2d  and  lOUi  of  each  montii. 
Because  the  dead  buried  At  the  temple  were  without  relatives  who  could 
support  the  temple,  Bkd-in  was  for  a  long  time  the  place  where  sacred 
images  were  brought  from  the  provinces  to  be  worshiped  by  l^e  people  of 
Yedo,  and  in  order  to  swell  the  meager  receipts  public  performances  were 
given  in  the  temide  atrium.  Prayers  were  (and  still  continue  to  be)  offered  up 
here  for  the  souls  of  dead  animals,  and  a  small  fee  will  procure  a  short  ser- 
vice and  burial  in  the  adjacent  grounds  for  cats,  dogs,  and  other  domestic  pets. 
Conspicuous  among  the  graves  is  that  of  Nezumi  Kozo,  the  Japanssb 
Robin  Hood:  a  national  and  historical  figure,  the  theme  of  many  a  story. 
Robber  of  the  rich  and  protector  of  the  poor,  Nezumi  ('  rat,'  the  robber  of 
the  household)  Kozo  (a  small,  lithe  person)was  a  little  man  of  keen  wit  and 
remarkable  a^ty  and  prowess  —  the  darling  of  the  proletariat.  His  droll 
and  daring  exploits  form  the  subject  of  many  dramas  and  other  theatrical 
plays.  His  grave  —  distinguished  by  a  small  shelter  and  much  bumin|[  in- 
cense —  attracts  thousands  of  the  commonalty  and  not  a  few  contributions 
to  the  temple  exchequer.  (The  priests  are  not  overmuch  proud  of  the  dubi- 
ous distinction  which  Kozd's  memory  has  associated  with  the  temple.)  The 
headstone  has  to  be  replaced  many  tunes  each  year,  as  the  credulous  believe 
that  if  a  bit  of  it  is  surreptitiously  carried  away  it  will  act  as  a  golden  talis- 
man in  speculative  enterprises.  When  the  belief  proves  true,  the  sly  klepto- 
maniac usually  fulfills  his  secret  vow  and  replaces  the  mutilated  stone  wiUi 
a  new  one.  The  enterprising;  wight  with  the  small  stock  of  headstones  near 
by  makes  his  living  by  keepmg  these  handy  and  carving  the  names  of  lucky 
investors  on  them,  then  setting  them  up.  Students  are  confident  of  success 
in  their  examinations  if  they  can  carry  a  chip  from  the  stone  in  their  kimono 
sleeve  during  the  ordeal.  When  the  course  of  true  love  runs  unevenly,  lovers 
come  hither  to  spill  their  smothered  grief,  and  to  implore  the  shade  of  Kozd 
to  bind  up  their  wounds.  The  bamboo  vases  have  been  filled  with  fresh 
flowers  every  dav  for  nearly  a  century,  and  fresh  incense  has  been  offered 
just  as  frequently.  The  big  amphitheater  which  overshadows  the  campo 
santo  is  where  wrestling-matches  (p.  clxvii)  are  held., 

Tsukiji  Cfilled-in  ground^,  the  one-time  Foreign  Conces- 
sion, occupies  a  strip  of  land  facing  the  bay  at  the  S.  edge  of 
the  city  (PI.  E-F,  7)  in  Kyobashi-ku,  and  with  its  several 
museums,  the  big  Seiyoken  Hotel,  etc.,  contains  consider- 
able of  interest.  Foreigners  were  formerly  confined  to  this 
quarter,  the  approaches  to  which  were  guarded  by  sentinels. 
It  is  now  the  favorite  dwelling-place  of  numerous  foreign 
missionaries,  whose  houses  and  the  foreign-style  churches 
make  it  resemble  the  suburb  of  some  Western  city.  Manv 
schools  and  deserving  establishments  for  the  moral  and  intel- 
lectual advancement  of  the  people  are  maintained  by  the 
mission-workers  in  various  parts  of  the  metropolis.  The  most 
successful  among  these  envoys  are  often  those  who  possess  a 
medicial  or  scientific  training,  and  who  blend  the  necessary 
material  with  the  spiritual  education.  Not  a  few  missionaries 
in  Japan  have  rendered  eminent  service  in  this  way.  The 
Chartty  Hospital,  adjoining  the  Naval  Medical  College, 
is  weU  equipped  ana  was  opened  in  March,  1912.  St.  Luke's 
Hospital  is  in  Akashicho,  near  the  American  Church.  The 
Type  Foundry  was  the  first  of  its  kind  established  in  Japan. 
The  Kabukiza  Theater  is  one  of  the  most  popular  of  the  (native) 
metropolitan  play-houses. 
Hie  Mineral  Mttsetim  {Hakubvisukwan),  opposite  the 
Commercial  Museum,  in  the  DepaitmeuX.  ol  A^Qcv^ulture  and 


NoBoal  Muaeum,  TOKYQ  10.  HmUe.    2^ 

Commerce  (Pl.E,  7),  open  daOy  from  9  to  5  (except  on  the 
days  following  national  holidays)  free,  recalls  in  a  smaller 
^ray  the  supero  collection  of  mineralogical  specimens  at  South 
Kensington.  The  bulk  of  the  exhibits  are  from  Japan  and  they 
comprise  almost  every  mineral  from  lead  to  gold.  Besides  some 
lugbly  interesting  meteorites,  fine  rock-crystals  from  Kai, 
Hdki,  and  other  provinces;  chalcedony  from  Echigo;  obsidian 
from  Himeshima  (in  Bungo),  and  a  host  of  fossiliferous  and 
other  objects,  there  are  cl^rts  showing  the  annual  production 
of  metals,  and  much  other  data  of  interest  to  mineralogists. 
The  pictures  show  some  of  Japan's  most  celebrated  volcanoes; 
that  of  Bandaisan  is  in  relief  and  portrays  it  before  and  after 
the  last  eruption.  The  colored  relief,  in  chalk,  of  Aso^san  gives 
an  excellent  perspective  of  that  stupendous  vent  in  K3rushu.  — 
Just  behind  the  museum,  in  the  W.  wing  of  the  Department 
OF  Communications  {TeUhin-sho)  building,  is  a  small  but 
interesting  Museum  (open  Sun.,  Thurs.,  and  Fridays,  free, 
from  9  to  3)  illustrating  in  a  variety  of  ways  Japan's  progress 
from  feudaUsm  to  civilization.  Old-time  methods  of  transpor- 
tation, mining,  and  the  like  are  strikingly  and  picturesquelv 
compared  —  by  means  of  efiFective  wax  figures,  etc.  —  with 
those  of  Europe  and  America,  and  models  of  a  host  of  modem 
machinery  are  shown  for  the  enlightenment  of  native  students. 
The  miniature  fire-towers  of  old  Yedo  show  microscopic  men 
in  the  attitude  of  wig-waging  signals  to  others  far  across  the 
houae-tops.  The  Post-Omce  Department  contains  a  complete 
collection  of  Japanese  postage-stamps.  —  A  less  interesting 
display  is  contained  in  the  Commercial  Museum,  in  the  left 
wing  of  the  huge,  rambling  edifice  (known  locally  as  the 
No-^ho-mu8hd)y  one  square  back  of  the  Teishifi-shd,  and  across 
the  street  from  the  Mineral  Museum.  Open  daily,  free  (^3), 
except  between  Jan.  1  and  7,  and  Dec.  25  and  31.   Besides  a 
practically  complete  collection  of  domestic  products,  there  is  a 
library  with  books  referring  to  commercial  and  industrial 
subjects.    Questions  relating  to   Japan  are  answered  free, 
samples  of  manufactured  products  are  shown,   with  prices, 
and  reports  are  distributed  to  those  interested.    The  big 
building  adjacent  on  the  right  is  the  Seiyoken  Hotel  (p.  110). 

The  *  Naval  Museimi  (PI.  E,  7)  in  the  Naval  University 
building,  near  the  Seiyoken  Hotel,  open  daily  (except  Sunday) 
free  (the  ticket  received  at  the  gate  must  be  returned  on  leav- 
ing), contains  an  extensive  and  interesting  collection  of  war- 
trophies  (chiefiy  from  Russia  and  China),  paintings  in  oil  of 
land-battles  and  sea-fights,  relief  maps  of  Russian  forts,  and 
a  host  of  objects  directly  related  to  Japan's  titanic  struggles 
for  autonomy.  The  painting  of  Admiral  TogOy  on  the  deck  of 
his  battleship  during  the  great  sea-fight  ofif  Tsushima,  is  worth 
kx>]dng  at.  Upstairs  there  are  a  number  of  ships'  mode\B  atid 
WKttDe  paraphernalia. 


234    Route  10.  TOKYO  T&cyd  Bay. 

The  Nishi  (Western)  Hongwanii,  known  locally  as  the  Tau- 
kiji  MonaeH,  a  big  temple  (brancn  of  the  tligaahi  Hangwanji 
described  at  p.  214)  faces  TdvMji  Sanchome  (PL  E,  7),  5  min. 
walk  from  the  Seiyoken  Hotel,  in  a  large  compound  with  many 
lanterns,  etc.  The  massive  sweeping  roof  and  the  magnificent 
proportions  of  the  structiu^  are  impressive;  the  interior 
differs  but  little  from  the  sister  edifice  in  Asakusa.  The  big 
wheeled  cannon  and  the  other  war  relics  in  the  yard  are  from 
China  and  Russia.  The  present  temple  dates  from  1872,  and 
stands  on  the  site  of  a  former  structure  destroyed  by  me  in 
1869.  The  image  of  Amida,  at  the  main  altar,  is  ascribed  to 
Shdtokurtaishi, 

Tdkyd  Bay  (wan)  flanks  the  metropolis  on  the  S.  and  is  40  M. 
long.  Maps  of  the'12th  cent,  show  that  the  water  then  extended 
to  Uyeno  Park  and  included  Asakusa,  while  those  of  the  16th 
cent,  show  that  Fukagawa  and  Honj5  Wards  were  both  sub- 
merged. When  the  Americans  first  anchored  in  the  shallow 
waters  of  Yedo  Bay  it  was  a  favorite  breeding-ground  for 
whales.  After  these  were  driven  off  it  became  a  popular 
dwelling-place  for  clams,  which  are  now  gathered  at  certain 
seasons  by  a  host  of  men,  women,  and  children  —  an  occupa- 
tion known  as  Shiohi-gari.  Dredging  operations  are  in  pro- 
gress, and  the  foreshore  being  constantly  reclaimed  is  to  serve 
as  the  foundation  for  harbor  works  to  cost  20  million  yen. 

The  Environs  of  T6ky6  are  tawdry  and  of  little  interest  to 
the  hurried  traveler.  The  few  pretty  spots  are  pretty  only 
when  idealized  by  floral  displays  in  season,  and  even  then  they 
call  for  no  special  description.  Takaa-zan^  and  the  Tama- 
gawa  are  mentioned  in  Rte.  25.  Meguro,  in  Shiba-ku  (PL  A,  6). 
a  pleasant  suburban  village  with  a  Race-Course  (Keibajo)  and 
an  Aviation  Field,  is  known  for  a  temple  dedicated  to  Fvdo; 
for  its  peony  gardens;  its  autumnal  display  of  maples;  and 
for  chestnuts  and  bamboo-shoots  —  which  with  the  plum 
blossoms  herald  the  approaching  spring  and  attract  excursion- 
ists. The  race-meetings  are  advertised  beforehand  in  the  local 
newspapers  (in  English).  The  station  of  the  Belt  Line  Rly.  is 
about  J  M.  N.E.  of  the  village.  At  the  street  level  we  turn  first 
to  the  right,  then  bear  to  the  left  to  the  hill  called  Gydnin-zdka, 
Instead  of  following  the  broad  road  which  leads  to  the  right, 
we  now  descend  into  the  valley  lying  beyond.  Midway  of  the 
slope,  at  the  left,  in  a  clean  little  yard,  is  a  small  Buddhist 
temple  with  an  interior  crowded  with  tall  statues  of  Amida  and 
his  retinue,  backed  bv  high  gilded  mandorlas.  Note  the  bronze 
Buddha  in  the  yard,  and  the  wistful .  little  sculptured  stone 
statuettes  of  his  disciples  which  ring  the  main  figure  and  ex- 
tend along  the  flank  of  the  hill,  beneath  the  trees.  The  iris 
garden  b^nd  the  hedge  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  road  is 
very  pretty  in  June.  About  \  M.  iatther  down  the  road,  at 
the  left  edge  of  the  village,  at  t\ie  base  ol  \Xife\S\,  wi  «.  oc^in- 


TOKYO  TOVRIES  ISLAND      11.  RauU.    236 

manding  terrace  (right)  shut  off  from  the  main  street  by  a 
picturesque  stone  wtdl  of  slabs  7  by  14  in.  inscribed  with  the 
names  of  contributors  to  the  edifice,  stands  a  shrine  with  500 
standing  and  seated  figures  of  the  Oo-hyaku  Rakan  (the  local 
name  for  the  fane),  Buddha's  nearest  disciples.  The  robes  of 
many  are  yellow,  red,  and  green,  and  the  solemn  assemblage 
produces  a  curious  effect  on  the  mind.  A  handsome  bronze 
Dell  swings  in  a  carn/Danario  at  the  right.  Byicontinuing  along 
the  street  where  it  oendsto  the  left,  one  soon  comes  {\  M.) 
to  a  diverging  road  (right)  at  the  end  of  which  is 

The  Temple  of  Fud6  (p.  ccvi),  or  Fudo  Sama^  behind  a  big 
tawdry  gateway  with  huge  Nio  in  the  log^as.  The  peonies  in 
May  and  the  chrysanthemums  in  Nov.  bring  many  picnickers 
to  the  tea-houses  hard  by.  The  waterfalls  at  the  left  (under 
which  naked  Japanese  sometimes  stand  for  hours  in  bitter 
weather,  in  order  to  wash  away  their  sins)  were  (according  to 
tradition)  brought  into  life  by  Jikaku-Daishiy  who  struck  the 
stones  with  his  mace  (tokko)  —  whence  the  name,  Tokko-no- 
toMf  or  Mace  Waterfall.  The  twin  cascades  fall  from  wide- 
throated  bronze  dragons  into  the  pool  below  and  radiate  a 
refreshing  coolness  in  summer.  The  bronze  lantern  at  the  top 
of  the  steps  is  worth  looking  at.  The  statue  of  Fudd  (also 
ascribed  to  JikakvrDaishi)  stands  at  the  main  altar  of  the 
gaudily  decorated,  polychromatic  temple. 

At  the  comer  of  the  lane  leading  from  the  main  road  to  the 
fane,  in  the  Kado-Ise  TeorHoiise,  is  kept  the  kev  (fee  of  10 
sen  to  the  girl  who  shows  the  way)  to  a  near-by  inclosure 
wherein  are  the  graves  of  Gompachi  and  Komurasaki,  an  his- 
torical pair  (consult  Tales  of  Old  Japarif  by  A,  B.  Mitford) 
sometimes  referred  to  as  the  Japanese  Paul  and  Virginia. 
Their  time-worn  tombstones  are  overshadowed  by  slim  bam- 
boos. Fresh  flowers  and  incense  are  placed  daily  before  the 
graves.  The  spot  is  called  Hiyoku-zuka  from  a  fabulous 
hinese  bird  {niyoku-^o-tori),  each  sex  of  which  is  supposed 
to  have  but  a  single  eye  and  a  single  wing,  but  which  unite 
when  flying  and  make  a  single  bird  (synonymous  of  constancy 
in  love).  It  is  a  favorite  place  of  pilgrimage  for  love-lorn 
Japanese,  who  come  hither  to  drown  their  sorrow  in  saA-e, 
toughen  their  constitutions  beneath  the  icy  drip  of  the  twin 
cascades,  and  acquire  dyspepsia  by  gorging  the  bamboo- 
dinners  which  are  a  specialty  of  the  local  restaurants. 

II.  From  Tokyo  to  Vries  Island. 

Vries  Island  (named  for  Maarten  Gerritz   Vries,  a  Dutch 
navigator  of  the  17th  cent.),  called  Oshima  by  the  Japanese,  is 
the  ku^est  (9  M.  long  by  6  wide)  and  northernmost  ol  \\v^ 
Seven  Isles  of  Izu  (province),  a  chain  which  fronts  the  GvAl 
ciTiX^J  (63 nautical  M.  S.  of  the  capital),  and  is  iamiWat  to 


236    Route  IS.  NARITA 

incoming  travelers  because  of  the  smoking  cone  of  Jf tAorOy 
an  active  (and  treacherous)  volcano  which  rises  2512  ft.  above 
it.  Foreign  travelers  rarely  visit  the  islands,  which  have  but 
few  inhabitants.  The  soil  consists  of  volcanic  scoria,  and  the 
vegetation  is  limited.  The  chief  occupation  of  the  people  is 
fishing.  Some  butter  is  made  for  the  T6ky6  market.  Small 
steamers  (fare,  ¥2.40)  ply  regularly  between  T6ky6  and  (10 
hrs.)  Niijimaf  the  principal  village.  Inns:  Mihara-kwan; 
Chioya;  ¥1.50  to  ¥2.  The  latter  is  near  the  steamer  landing. 
The  ascent  to  the  sununit  of  the  crater  can  be  made  in  one 
forenoon ;  guide  from  the  inn,  ¥1  for  the  round  trip.  Unlike  the 
women  of  Japan  proper,  those  of  Oshima  have  fair  complexions, 
reddish  hair  (causea  by  drenching  it  in  camellia  oil  — tsubaki- 
abura)y  and  a  nasal  twang.  They  carry  burdens  on  their  heads 
like  Sicilian  women.  Oshima  was  anciently  a  place  of  exile 
for  undesirable  politicians. 

12.  From  Tokyo  vi£  Chiba,  Sakura  (Narita),  and  Narutd  to 

Choshi. 

S5bu  Lines  of  The  Zmperitd  Government  Railways. 

To  Sakura  Jct.^  where  a  branch  line  diverges  to  (5  M.)  NarUa,  is  32  M. 
Several  trains  daily  in  1 J  hrs. ;  fare,  ¥1.35, 1st  cl. :  81  sen,  2a  cl.  —  To  Choahi, 
73  M.  in  4  hrs.;  fare,  ¥2.83,  1st  cl.;  ¥1.70,  2d  cl. 

Tokyo,  see  p.  122.  To  22  M.  Chiba,  the  rly.  follows  the  con- 
tour of  the  N.  end  of  Toky5  Bay  through  Shimosa  Province 
and  a  region  calling  for  no  particular  mention.  The  villagers 
along  the  coast  obtain  their  uvelihood  by  fishing  and  supplying 
the  T6ky5  markets.  Chiba,  the  capital  of  Chiba-ken,  with 
33,400  inhabs.,  has  nothing  to  interest  foreign  travelers.  Hence 
to  32  M.  Sakura  Jet.,  the  trend  of  the  line  is  N.E.  To  reach 
Narita  one  must  change  here  to  the  Narita  Rly.  Co.'s  line. 
For  a  continuation  of  the  journey  to  Choshi,  see  p.  240. 

Narita,  a  small  town  (pop.  6000)  with  many  inns  which  cater 
to  pilgrims,  contains  a  locally  celebrated  temple  called  the 
Shinsho-ji  (belonging  to  the  Shingon  sect  of  Buddhists)  dedi- 
cated to  Fudo  (p.  ccvi),  and  said  to  date  from  1704.  Its  full 
name  is  Narita-Shingo  Shinsho-jiy  or  'The  Divinely  Protected 
Temple  of  Recent  Victory  on  Mt.  Narita,*  and  the  image  of 
Fitdo  (ascribed  to  Kobo-Daishi)  is  said  to  possess  such  miracu- 
lous powers  that  thousands  of  credulous  pilgrims  foregather 
here  each  year  (in  April  and  May)  to  make  their  obeisances 
before  it.  Other  popular  festivals  fall  on  the  28th  of  each  month 
and  attract  many  folks  from  the  country  side. 

The  temple  stands  on  the  side  of  a  hill  about  ^  M.  (tram-cars,  6  sen) 

at  the  left  of  the  station,  facing  an  interesting  street  lined  with  many  pic< 

turesque  shops  dedicated  to  the  sale  of  yokan  (a  sweetmeat  made  of  brown 

beapa  and  larded  with  chestnuts) ;  to  honey-like  mizuame  and  to  many 

manne  products,  conspicuous  among  them  big  shells  painted  on  the  inner 

ade  with  Sshea,  turtles,  sailors,  temp\ea,  and  NwYvsAriicA..   ^.^corcUng  to  the 

pneatly  /abWcation  Fttdd^s  image  waabrouKYit  iTomCViiTk'aiVsv  vNA«N&2t»n  v&d 


NARITA  12.  Route.    237 

enduJiMd  in  a  tonple  on  Tahfuhwn^  near  KyOto.  Here  it  acquired  such  re- 
nown for  its  wonderful  powcurs  that  the  Mikado,  who  was  then  at  war  with 
rebellious  subjects  in  Simndsaj  commanded  it  to  be  taken  to  the  seat  of  the 
disturbance.  There,  by  its  mtervention,  the  rebels  suffered  disastrous 
defeat  (in  a.d.  940),  and  at  the  termination  of  the  civil  war  it  was  ordered 
back  to  Kyoto.  But  when  the  bonae  Kwanchd  essayed  to  return  it,  it 
straightway  showed  its  preference  for  Narita  by  suddenly  becoming  so  heavy 
that  no  man  or  men  could  budge  it.  Appearing  in  a  dream  to  the  Mikado, 
Fluid  declared  his  intention  of  sticking  to  Narita  for  the  purpose  of  blessing 
and  civilizing  the  r^on.  Thereupon  His  Majesty  granted  a  fund  for  the 
erection  of  a  suitable  temple,  and  this  is  said  to  have  stood  on  the  site  of  the 
present  one.  The  great  gate  was  added  in  1831,  and  the  next  year  saw  the 
erection  of  the  auzmary  buildings.  The  treasuiy  of  the  temple  is  said  to  con- 
tain a  sword  (never  shown)  presented  by  the  Emperor  Shujaku  (931-46)  to 
Pudd  in  recognition  of  his  services.  Tradition  has  it  that  this  weapon  was 
forged  for  the  regalia  of  the  Emperor  Mommu  (697-707)  by  the  celebrated 
(first  of  the  native  swordsmitha)  Amakuni,  whence  its  name,  Amakuni-no- 
hoken:  one  touch  of  it  is  believed  to  cure  insanity  and  to  relieve  persons  pos- 
aessed  of  the  fox  demon. 

Viewed  from  the  tall  inns  across  the  street  the  temple  and 
its  adiuncts  are  very  picturesque;  a  highly  ornamented  copper- 
sheathed  lantern  with  gilt  enrichments  stands  in  the  corner  of 
the  yard  near  the  street,  behind  an  inclosing  wall  formed  of 
hundreds  of  stone  slabs,  7  by  15  in.,  impressed  with  ideographic 
names  of  the  contributors  to  the  fane.  Similar  slabs  compose 
the  minor  walls  in  the  compound,  which  js  crowded  with  stone 
lanterns,  shishi,  tablets^  pyramids  of  water-buckets  for  use  in 
case  of  fire,  cyhndrical  u*on  tubs,  and  what-not.  The  conspicu- 
ous adornments  of  the  huge  gateway  with  its  resplendent 
copper-bronze  roof  is  the  recurrent  gilded  Wheel  of  the  Law  — 
the  customary  crests  on  temples  dedicated  to  Fudo.  Behind 
it,  on  higher  terraces,  stand  the  main  temples,  the  Hondo  and 
Komyo^o,  The  newer  temple  at  the  left  has  for  its  chief  idol 
a  sculptured  and  seated  figure  of  the  great  apostle  Kobo- 
Daishi  (p.  cxxvi), surrounded  by  some  good  wood-carvings,  some 
life-size  paintings  of  former  abbots,  and  some  inharmonious 
war-relics.  Beyond  the  comer  of  the  bi^  wall  (tamagaki)^ 
which  extends  to  the  right  of  the  steps  leading  up  to  the  gate- 
way, is  a  sacred  well,  inclosed,  where  pilgrims  perform  the 
ceremony  of  bathing  in  cold  water  —  a  penance  to  them,  as 
they  customarily  use  hot  water.  The  ugly  beacon  at  the  right 
of  tne  gate,  with  its  many  names,  dates  from  1894.  The  nonde- 
script structure  where  male  devotees  are  seen  fasting  is  the 
Okoto  Danjikirdo,  Diagonally  across  the  yard  is  the  Onna 
Danjiki-ddj  reserved  for  women  f asters,  who  appear  to  enjoy 
the  notoriety. 

Formerly  the  period  of  abstention  from  all  food  was  3  weeks;  6  days  now 
constitute  the  test  of  devotion.  Many  of  the  hungry  pilgrims  try  to  pass  as 
much  of  this  time  as  they  can  in  sleep.  According  to  tradition  the  (16th 
cent.)  saint  Doyo  passed  100  days  in  fervent  prayer  for  religious  light.  Fin- 
ally one  of  the  gods  appeared  to  him  and  thrust  a  sharp  sword  down  his 
tiuoat.  The  blood  flowed  freely,  but  after  the  operation,  which  m\Tac\i\oMa\v 
left  no  wound,  the  mentaJ  powers  of  the  saint  were  found  to  be  vaaUy  \rvr 
'  Big  robes,  dyed  with  the  blood  spilt,  are  said  to  be  enshrined  in.  tW 
Yguaty,  and  pictures  lUustrating  the  occurrence  hang  on  tYie  NVoXla. 


238    BmUe  12,  NARITA 

Sixteen  stone  steps  lead  up  to  the  niassive  gateway  of  sculp- 
tured keyaMf  whose  huge  supporting  beams  and  rafters, 
sheathed  in  richly  embossed  metal,  carry  coaroe  but  well- 
executed  wood-carvings  badly  defaced  by  the  pigeons  which 
nest  therein.  The  big  swinging  bronze  lanterns  are  very  deco- 
rative. The  scowling  Nio  in  their  respective  loggias  are  erro- 
neously attributed  to  Kobo-Daishiy  and  are  practically  covered 
by  the  spit-ball  prayers  launched  at  them  by  the  credulous. 
Tiie  two  huge  figures  behind  them,  in  cages  overlooking  the 
inner  yard,  are  (left)  Biskamonten,  and  Tamonteiif  companions 
to  the  Deva  Kings.  The  white  marble  bridge  above  the  pretty 
pond  with  turtles  and  goldfishes  is  one  of  the  few  of  this 
material  the  traveler  will  see  in  Japan.  In  the  inclosure  here 
are  many  upright  tablets  and  a  huge  monumeiit  in  the  form  of 
a  bronze  sword  held  upright  by  the  figurines  at  the  base  and 
symbolizing  the  Doyo  tradition  referred  to  above.  A  pictur- 
esque shrinelet  stands  at  the  top  of  a  flight  of  small  steps  at  the 
left,  and  with  the  host  of  symbols,  scattered  about  it,  and  the 
two  huge  bronze  and  gilded  Dogs  of  Fo  which  guard  the  steps 
to  the  upper  terrace,  imparts  a  singular  aspect  to  the  place. 

At  the  top  of  the  (33)  steps  which  lead  up  to  the  terrace 
stands  the  Hondo,  of  unpainted  keyaki  and  surrounded  by  a 
wide  porch  around  which  pilgrims  plod  monotonously  in  the 
operation  called  0-hyaku-do  fumo,  or  *a  hundred-times  trot 
around.'  Whosoever  makes  the  circuit  this  number  of  times, 
counting  his  rosary  and  marking  time  with  the  white  strings 
held  in  his  hand,  travels  about  3  M.  and  acquires  enough 
merit  to  have  his  sins  washed  away.  The  approach  to  this 
porch,  through  the  atrium  crowded  with  tablets,  lanterns,  and 
all  the  metal  accompaniments  and  enrichments  of  a  prosper- 
ous Buddhist  tera,  is  almost  as  picturesque  as  the  view  in  retro- 
spect, over  the  roof  of  the  gateway  and  the  terraces  below. 
As  is  the  custom  with  ecclesiastical  establishments  which 
depend  upon  alms  rather  than  upon  state  aid,  the  contribution- 
box  (saisen-bako)  is  a  capacious  structure  6  ft.  wide,  4  ft.  deep, 
and  18  ft.  long,  metal-studded,  with  cross-bars  and  a  deep 
slot  running  the  length  of  it.  Another  one,  about  half  the  size, 
stands  at  the  left  and  echoes  loudly  when  the  small  coins  of 
the  pilgrims  are  cast  into  it. 

Above  the  large  one  are  some  noteworthy  sculptured  panels, 
now  badly  faded,  showing  the  conventional  Buddhist  phoe- 
nixes, dragons,  birds,  waves,  and  the  like,  all  in  polychromatic 
colors  and  protected  by  wire  netting.  The  squirming  gold 
dragon  on  a  black  panel  in  the  ceiling  is  worth  looking  at,  as 
well  as  the  flying  tennin  on  smaller  side  panels  —  the  work  of 
Kano  Yasunohu  (18th  cent.).  To  this  artist  of  the  celebrated 
Kano  school  is  also  ascribed  the  large  painting  of  the  Sixteen 
Idakan,  behind  the  main  altar.  The  red  seated  figure  of  carved 
wood  at  the  left,  with  parts  oi  laia  bod^  xwbb^d  «way,  is  the 


NABITA  12,  Roide.    239 

contrite  Binzwru  (p.  ccviii).  One  must  remove  one's  shoes  to 
obtain  a  closer  look  at  the  interior  and  the  main  shrine  (no 
fees),  on  the  central  altar  of  which,  looking  very  black  and 
ominous,  is  a  huge  seatedFtidd,  flanked  by  his  disciples  SeUakor 
Doji  and  KongarorDqji.  A  huge  brass  baldachin  pends  above, 
and  many  brass  fitments  stand  below.  The  coffered  ceiling  is 
a  dirty  black  streaked  with  the  stains  of  the  incense  which  has 
burned  here  for  upward  of  200  yrs.  The  big  temple  drum  at  the 
left  can  be  heard  all  over  the  neighborhood;  the  collection  of 
gold  and  silver  coins  in  a  frame  at  the  corner  allotted  to  the 
bonzes  are  of  the  Tokugawa  era. 

Perhaps  the  most  interesting  objects  about  the  building  are 
the  excellent  wood-carvings  on  the  doors,  back  and  sides;  all 
are  protected  by  wire  screens,  and  though  the  facial  expres- 
sions of  the  human  figures  lack  character  and  grace,  the  intric- 
acy of  the  carving  and  the  multiplicity  of  the  subjects  com- 
mand respect.  The  small  groups  on  the  square  panels  of  the 
doors,  each  about  2  by  2\  ft.,  illustrate  acts  in  the  lives  of 
certain  of  the  Twenty-four  Paragons  of  Filial  Piety  (mentioned 
in  the  Chinese  Repository,  vol.  vi)  and  are  ascribed  to 
Shimamura  Shumbyo.  The  long  panels  (4  by  9  ft.)  on  the 
sides  and  back  of  the  temple  portray  events  in  the  lives  of  the 
Five  Hundred  Rakan,  and  are  attributed  to  Matsumoto 
Rydsan.  The  leering,  bulbous,  sodden  faces  (no  two  of  which 
are  aUke)  of  these  *  perfected  Buddhist  saints  '  are  the  reverse 
of  holy,  and  are  singularly  out  of  harmony  with  their  reputed 
deeds.  The  large  carved  animals  on  the  architrave  above  the 
panels  are  fabulous  and  mediocre,  and  are  without  counter- 
parts in  any  civilized  zoo. 

Perched  among  the  rocks  on  the  slope  of  the  hill  behind  the 
temple  are  a  number  of  small  shrines;  one,  hi^h  up  on  the  right, 
contains  a  figiu*e  of  En-no  ShdkakUy  a  be-whiskered  individual 
pictured  with  a  pilgrim's  staff  in  his  right  hand;  he  was  a 
Buddhist  hermit  who  dwelt  in  solitude  on  Mt.  Katsuragi  for 
30  yrs.  (during  the  7th  cent.),  and  whose  specialty  was  to 
climb  the  highest  mts.  of  the  country  and  consecrate  them  to 
Shaka.  One  of  the  early  mikados,  wearying  of  this  ceaseless 
agility,  accused  the  bonze  of  sorcery,  and  exiled  him  (in  699) 
to  one  of  the  Izu  Islands,  but  relented  and  pardoned  him 
some  years  after.  —  The  36  bronze  figures  dispersed  about 
the  rockery  symbolize  the  36  terrestrial  manifestations  of 
Kwannon. 

The  3-storied,  intricately  carved,  polychromatic  Pagoda  at 
the  right  of  the  Hondo  is  a  sad  simulacrum  of  a  sometime 
gorgeous  structure.  On  a  par  with  it  in  point  of  decoration  is 
the  near-by  Revolving  Library  —  time-stained,  vermiculated, 
and  tottering  to  its  fall.  Straight  across  from  the  pagoda^  at 
thie  right,  is  bx\  Ex-^oto  Hall  with  a  curious  medley  ol  \^i\»\ 
among  them  an  English  bronze  cannon  incised  witVi  tteCxo^Xi, 


240    Route  12,  CHOSHI 

the  monogram  G.R.IV.,  the  date  1824,  and  a  metal  ribbon 
with  Honi  SoU  qui  Mai  y  Penae  —  a  fine  old  relic  of  gallant 
King  George  IV.  In  an  iron  cage  is  a  rope,  3  in.  in  diameter 
and  100  ft.  long,  made  of  hair  from  women's  heads,  and  em- 
ployed to  haul  the  beams  used  in  the  construction  of  the  tem- 
ple. The  buildings  seen  across  the  valley  at  the  far  right  are 
the  Narita  Library,  the  Public  School,  etc. 

From  this  terrace  52  granite  steps  lead  up  to  the  final  one 
on  which  stands  the  Komyd^Of  or  Hall  of  Resplendent  Li^t, 
a  weather-beaten  structure  showing  signs  of  former  magnifi- 
cence. Its  location  is  superb,  high  above  the  town,  on  a  clean- 
swept  space  girdled  by  a  fringe  of  splendid  trees  through  which 
beguiling  views  are  obtainable.  The  central  figure,  which 
seems  out  of  place  in  the  tawdry,  incense-stained  interior,  is 
Dainichi- Nyoraif  one  of  the  Buddhist  trinity  personifying 
purity  and  wisdom.  Immediately  behind  the  building,  in  an 
artificial  cave  constructed  of  ideographic  slabs,  behind  a  dim 
light  which  shows  only  as  a  yellow  gleam  in  the  murky  dark- 
ness, is  a  shrine  dedicated  to  him.  Many  small  shops,  tea- 
houses, peep-shows,  and  the  like  share  the  hilltop  with  the 
temple,  at  the  left  of  which  is  an  open  Ex-voto  Hall  containing 
a  number  of  pictures  of  no  worth.  —  The  vista  across  the  tem- 
ple roofs  as  we  descend  to  the  street  is  very  pretty.  The  situa- 
tion is  just  such  a  one  as  the  nature-loving  Buddhists  like  to 
select  for  their  shrines  —  at  once  sjrmbolic  of  the  lofty  retreat 
whence  the  hermit  Buddha  looked  out  with  dreamy,  contem- 
plative gaze  over  the  world  below,  as  well  as  appealing  to  the 
sentiment  of  all  who  love  to  view  life  from  the  high  places. 

The  traveler  who  elects  to  return  to  Tokyo  may  do  so  over  the  line  trav- 
ersed on  the  outward  journey,  or  proceed  direct  (over  the  Narita  RIy.  Co.'s 
line)  from  Narita  to  (28  M.)  Abiko  (fare,  ¥1.29,  Ist  cl.)  and  join  the  North- 
Eastem  Line  described  in  Rte.  17,  p.  3()5.  From  Narita  the  rly.  continues 
N.E.  through  a  nondescript  country  to  37  M.  Sawara. 

Tdkyd-Chdshi  Rte.  continued  from  p.  236.  From  Sakura 
Jet.  the  rly.  runs  E.  over  a  level  country  to  45  M.  NarutS,  then 
turns  abruptly  to  the  left  and  runs  N.E.  vi4  56  M.  Yokaichiba, 
to  73  M.  Choshi  (Inn:  DaishiUf  ¥2  and  upward),  a  seashore 
town  at  the  mouth  of  the  Tone  River;  a  sort  of  Japanese  Cape 
Cod.  The  people  engage  either  in  catering  to  the  wants  of  the 
picnickers  who  come  hither  from  Tokyo,  or  devote  their  time 
to  catching  sardines  {iwaahi),  which  assemble  here  in  such 
numbers  as  to  imply  that  they  like  the  process  of  beine  boiled 
for  their  oil  and  later  used  as  a  fertilizer.  The  great  cauldrons  in 
which  they  are  reduced  are  not  fragrant,  and  foreigners  with  a 
refined  sense  of  smell  take  but  little  pleasure  in  the  neighbor- 
hood. The  near-by  coast  is  pretty,  but  less  so  than  the  lovely 
Matsushima,  farther  N.  Broad  lagoons  stretch  away  N.W., 
And  the  natives  delight  to  ride  over  them  on  the  poky  little 
river  Btei^mhosLtS  which  ply  hence  \a  &€V€c«1  of  the  ports. 


KATSUURA  12.  RouU.    241 


z.  Ftom  Tokyo  yii  Chiba,  Soa  (Kjauaau)  and  Oami  to  Katattua  CKo- 
minato).  Sotm  and  Boao  Luiea  of  the  Imperial  GoTemment  Rallwaya. 

To  Kiaarazu  45  M.  Several  trains  daily  in  If  hrs.:  fare,  ¥1.90,  Ist  cL; 
¥1.14,  2d  cl.  To  Katmtura  77  M.  in  about  3  hrs.,  fare, ¥2.98  let  cl. ;  ¥1.79. 
2d  d.  The  line  traverses  the  provinces  of  Shimdsa  and  Kaausa,  penetrating 
the  picturesque  BdshQ  Peninsula,  a  favorite  tramping-ground  for  Tdkyd 
people. 

From  T6kyo  to  Chiba  Jet.  is  described  in  the  foregoing  route. 
Thence  the  rly.  runs  along  the  E.  shore  of  TokyO  Bay  to  3  M. 
Soga  Jet.,  where  the  line  for  Kisarazu  turns  to  the  right  to  fol- 
low the  contour  of  the  bay,  while  the  main  hne  continues  across 
a  fairly  level  country  to  14  M.  Oami  Jet.  mentioned  herein- 
after. 

From  Soga  to  Kiaarazu  is  20  M.  and  throughout  the  nm  one  gets  alluring 
glimpses  of  the  bay  and  of  the  scores  of  junks  and  smaller  craft  oound  to  or 
nrom  Tokyd.  The  waters  hereabout  teem  with  a  great  variety  of  fish,  and 
fishing  is  the  chief  industry  of  the  villagers  along  the  shore.  Kisarazu  (Inn: 
Torikai,  ¥2)  a  poor  town  with  but  little  of  interest,  is  liked  by  the  Japanese 
for  the  succulent  eels  caught  and  cooked  there.  Foreign  residents  of  the 
metropolis  often  make  the  place  (steamers  daily  from  T5ky5)  the  point  of 
departure  for  walking  trips  to  tiie  interior  of  the  peninsula,  which  is  charm- 
ing in  springtime,  with  many  flowers  and  delightful  sea  views.  An  extension 
of  the  rly.  is  in  process  of  construction  to  15  M.  Kururi,  thence  over  the  hills 
to  10  M.  Odaki,  and  on  to  5  M.  Katsuura,  the  present  terminus  of  the  line 
described  below.  The  mt.  visible  at  the  S.  of  the  proposed  line,  is  Kan5-san 
(1250  ft.),  astride  the  border  of  Kazusa  and  Awa. (Chinese  name,  BoshQ) 
Provinces. 

At  Oami  Jet.  the  TSgane  line  runs  in  a  N.E.  direction  to  8  M. 
Naruto,  a  junction  on  the  line  to  Choshi.  Our  line  here  turns 
to  the  right  and  runs  southward  until  it  strikes  the  sea  at  (26  M. 
from  Chiba  Jet.)  Ichinomiya,  a  nondescript  fishing-village. 
55  M.  Katsuura  (Inn:  Kozeriy  ¥2),  a  busy  little  fishing-town  is 
usually  the  point  of  departure  for  the  near-by  (4  M.  to  the  S.) 
Kominato  village,  known  to  Buddhists  throughout  Japan  as 
the  birthplace  (or  the  place  of  exile)  of  the  bonze  Nichiren. 
He  is  said  to  have  married  here  and  to  have  become  a  fisher- 
man. Later  he  prohibited  the  catching  of  fish,  and  as  the  pro- 
hibition is  still  observed,  the  finny  tribes  haunt  the  adjacent 
waters  undisturbed  in  such  numbers  that  the  environing  coast 
is  called  Tai-ncMiray  or  Sea  Bream  Coast.  A  temple,  the 
Tanjo-ji  (*  Nativity  Temple,'  said  to  have  been  established  in 
1286),  stands  to  his  memory  and  is  an  object  of  veneration  by 
the  adherents  of  the  Hokke  sect.  The  present  edifice,  erected 
in  1846  on  the  sito  of  an  earlier  structure,  contains  some 
mediocre  carvings  and  a  number  of  relics  of  the  militant  saint, 
—  whose  ashes  are  deposited  in  the  Minohu  Temple  (Rte.  25). 


II.    NORTHERN  JAPAN 


Route  Page 

13.  From  Toky6  vi&  Utsunomiya  to  Nikk5  (Chuzenji, 
and  Yumoto) 243 

The  Cryptomeria  Japonica,  243. 

14.  Nikko  and  its  Environs 243 

Arrival,  243 ;  Hotels,  244 ;  Shops.  244 ;  Nikkd,  244 ;  History, 
245;  The  Mountains,  246;  Climate,  246;  Flowers,  247: 
The  Sacred  Red  Bridge,  248;  The  Temples,  250;  Annual 
Procession,  251 ;  Mausoleum  of  leyasu,  252 ;  Nikkd  Park, 
253;  Sambutsu-dO,  253;  S5rintd,  254;  Bronze  Bell,  254; 
Rinno-ji,  255:  Museum  of  lemitsu  Relies,  256;  The 
Pagoda,  257;  The  Ni6-mon,  258;  The  First  Terrace  (of 
the  leyasu  Shrine),  259;  Hidari  Jingord,  259;  Treasures 
of  the  leyasu  Shrine,  259;  Library  of  the  Sacred  Books, 
260;  The  Second  Terrace,  262;  Yakushi-do,  262;  The 
Ydmei-mon  and  the  Third  Terrace,  265;  The  Kara-mon 
and  the  Fourth  Terrace,  269;  The  Honden,  270;  Holy  of 
Holies  of  the  leyasu  Mausoleum,  273;  Tomb  of  lejrasu, 
279. 

The  lemitsu  Mausoleum,  280;  The  Futa-ara  Jinja,  281; 
Memorial  House.  281;  Futatsu-dd,  282;  Nid-mon,  282; 
Niten-mon,  283;  Yasha-mon,  283;  Kara-mon,  283;  Hon- 
den, 284;  Holy  of  Holies,  285;  Tomb  of  lemitsu,  287; 
Temple  of  Jigen-Daishi,  287;  Honga-Jinja,  288.  —  Ex- 
cursions, 288.  —  Kirifuri-no-taki:  and  Makkiu'a-daki, 
289;  Jakkd  Temple,  Nana  Waterfall,  Gydja-dd,  Takind 
Teimple,  and  the  Vermicelli  Cascade,  290.  —  Gamman- 
ga-fuchi,  293;  Botanical  Garden,  294 ;  Urami-ga-taJd, 
and  the  Jikwan-no-taki,  294;  Ascent  of  Nyoho-zan,  296; 
Toyama  Hill,  296. 

15.  From  Nikko  to  Chuzenji  and  Yumoto    ....  296 

Kegon  Waterfall,  298;  Lake  Chuzenji,  298;  Chuzenji  Vil- 
lage, 299;  Nantai-zan,  299;  Ashio  Copper  Mines,  300; 
Dragon's  Head  Cascade,  301 ;  Yu-no-taki,  302 ;  Yumoto 
Lake  and  Village,  302. 

16.  From  Yumoto  vid  the  Konsei  Pass  to  Ikao  .     .     .  303 

Shirane-san,  304;  Suga,  Maru,  and  Ojiri  Lakes,  304;  The 
KuryQ  Pass,  305. 

17.  From  Tokyo  vi&  Mito,  Sendai,  Matsushima  and 
Morioka  to  Aomori  (Yezo  Island) 305 

Mito,  306;  Tokugawa  Nariaki,  306;  Sendai,  308;  Tansu, 
309;  Date  Masamune,  310;  Matsushima,  311;  Klnka- 
zan,  312;  Shiogama,  314;  Chusonji  Monastery,  315; 
Morioka,  316;  Mt.  Iwate,  316;  Aomori,  318;  Tsugaru 
Strait,  319. 

18.  From  Tokyo  viA  Utsunomiya,  Fukushima,  Yama- 
gata  and  Akita  to  Aomori  (Hokkaido)     .     .     .    .319 

Shiobara  Mineral  Springs,  320;  Kdriyama  and  the  'Gan- 
etsu  Line  to  Niigata,  321;  Inawashiro  Lake,  Bandai-san, 
Wakamatsu,  321;  From  Kdriyama  to  Taira,  322;  Fuku- 
shima, 322;  Yonezawa  and  the  Uesugi,  323;  Yamagata, 
324:  Gwassan,  and  Ch5kai-Ban,  324;  Akita,  325;  Tsugaru 
Fuji.  326;  Aomori,  326. 


TOKYO  to  NIKKO     is.  Route.    243 

13.  From  Tdkyd  vut  Utsis^oiniya  to  Nikkd  (Chuzenji  and 

Tumoto). 

Korth-Ea8tem,  and  Kikkd  Uttes  of.  the  Imperial  Govenunent  Railways. 

91  M.  Several  through  tram*  daily  in  4^  brs;  fare,  ¥3.43,  l>t  el.;  ¥2.06, 
2d  d.  Special  ezouraion  rates  at  certain  seasons.  The  rly.  to  Utsunomiya  is 
described  in  Rte.  18,  p.  320.  Utsunomiya  (Inn:  Shirokiya,  ¥3.80;  opposite 
the  station),  capital  of  Tochigi  Prefecture  and  chief  city  of  Shimotsuke  Pro- 
vince, with  47,500  inhabs.,  was  anciently  the  seat  of  the  powerful  Utsu- 
nomiya family,  descendants  oiFujiwara  Michikane  (055-05) .  A  great-grand- 
son of  Michikane  became  a  Buddhist  bonze  under  the  name  of  Soen^  and  was 
placed  at  the  head  of  the  PiUaara  TsmpU.  The  old  castle  was  built  by  his 
son  Munetauna. 

From  Utsunomiya  the  rly.  runs  N.W.  to  8  M.  Kanuma 
where  it  turns  N.  and  crosses  a  finely  wooded  country  on  a 
steadily  rising  grade.  The  magnificent  Cryptomeria*  Avenue 
which  parallels  it  for  some  distance,  leads  brokenly  to  Nikko 
and  terminates  at  the  foot  of  the  town.  Travelers  with  ample 
time  at  their  disposal  sometimes  alight  at  21  M.  Imaichi,  and 
walk  the  remaining  4  M.  to  Nikk5,  beneath  the  lofty  trees. 
Originally  this  fine  avenue,  the  Nikko-KaidOf  was  40  or  more 
M.  long,  and  stretched  in  an  unbroken  line  past  Utsunomiya 
to  the  mausolea  of  which  it  served  as  a  regal  approach.  It  is 
said  to  have  been  planted  by  daimyds  too  poor  to  contribute 
money  toward  the  erection  of  the  mortuary  shrines  to  the  dead 
skoguns.  Scattered  among  the  crsrptomerias  are  numerous 
RetinosporaSf  or  '  Trees-oi-the-Sun '  {ChamcBcyparis  ohtusa), 
the  Japanese  cypress  (hinoki),  a  tree  also  cultivated  in  Amer- 
ica. The  iconoclastic  peasantry  have  chopped  down  some  of  the 
noble  trees  for  firewood,  and  beside  maMng  huge  gaps  in  the 
avenue,  they  destroyed  a  mile  or  more  of  it  to  maKe  way  for 
their  houses  in  Nikko.  In  many  places  it  is  as  broken  as  the 
departed  glory  of  the  sovereigns  in  whose  honor  it  was  planted. 
The  rly.  approaches  it  several  times  before  reaching  the  Nikko 
station,  but  its  perspective  is  marred  by  frequent  curves. 

14.  Nikko  and  its  Environs. 

Arriyal.  The  rly.  station  (see  the  accompanying  plan)  is  near  the  foot  of 
the  single  street  which  serves  as  the  main  thoroughfare  of  the  long,  thin  town 

^  The  Crsrptomeria  Taponica  (Jap.  sugi),  one  of  the  finest,  most  valuable, 
and  most  widely  employed  of  the  Japanese  conifers,  is  to  Japan  what  the 
giant  Sequoia  is  to  California,  to  which  it  has  much  similarity.  There  is  but 
one  species,  and  in  England  and  America  it  is  called  the  Japanese  cedar.  It 
is  carefully  cultivated  in  Japan,  from  slips  and  seedlings;  chiefly  from  the 
latter.  The  tree  demands  a  deep  soil  and  protection  against  storms.  It 
thrives  best  in  a  hot,  dry  climate,  and  is  very  sensitive  to  cold  .^  It  is  a  quick 
grower  and  when  fully  developed  often  measures  18  ft.  in  circumference, 
while  the  tall,  perpendicular  shafts  raise  their  dark-green,  regular,  conical 
heads  from  100  to  llO  ft.  in  the  air.  It  is  much  favored  for  temple  groves  and 
the  avenues  leading  thereto.  It  is  a  marvelous  wood-producer,  the  wood 
being  brownish-red  at  the  core,  sapwood  white,  easily  split,  of  agreeable 
smell,  easy  to  work,  durable  in  water,  but  also  very  brittle.  From  this  cir- 
cumstance it  is  not  employed  in  bridge-building  or  work  of  a  sLmvlekX  ivaXwx^ 
where  sudden  and  violent  strains  are  to  be  met,  but  it  is  vddeVy  \]Aed.\>'V  ^^^ 
Japanese  in  the  construction  of  their  houses. 


244    RotUe  U.  NIKKO  EiOek. 

of  Hachy^ahi,  at  the  top  of  which  ura.the  ehief  hotels,  the  temples,  etc.  The 
Daiya  Biver  flanks  this  st.  on  thelript:  There  are  no  cabs.  The  tramway  is 
an  adjunct  to  the  Aahio  Copper  Rijmkkgi  Co.,  but  the  cars  pass  the  principal 
hotels,  and  cany  passengers  through  and  b«i3rond  the  town  to  the  terminus 
near  Futamiya.  Jinrikis  and  trustwOTUly  EngUsh-speaking  runners  for  the 
hotels  meet  all  incoming  trains,  to  ietk»  charge  of  passengers'  luggage,  etc. 
The  average  charge  for  a  trunk  to  the  hotel  is  20  «en;  deliver  checks  to  the 
runner  or  to  the  hotel  manager.  The  upward  slope  of  the  st.  necessitates  2 
men  to  each  jinriki;  fare  to  the  Kanaya  Hotd  (1  M.,  15  min. ;  25  min.  walk), 
20  «en;  to  the  Nikko  Hotel  (14  M.  25  min.;  35  min.  walk),  30  een  each.  The 
latter  is  on  the  other  side  of  the  river,  besrond  the  temples,  overlooking  the 
upper  town  of  IH-Mcuihi. 

Hotels  (comp.  p.  zxiz).  The  *  Kanaya  Hotd{¥[Xi,  3)  Tel.  add.:  'Kanaya 
Nikkd  ' ;  occupies  a  commanding  position  on  a  hill  at  the  left  near  the  Red 
Bridge.  English  spoken;  modern  improvements;  fine  views;  good  food; 
recommended.  Single  room  (the  best  are  above  the  dining-room,  overlooking 
the  Daiyorgawa  and  the  mts.)  for  1  pers.,  from  ¥5  and  upward  per  day ;  ¥9 
and  upward  for  2  pers.,Amer.  plan;  with  private  bath,  for  2  pers.,  from  ¥16 
to  ¥20.  Special  reductions  for  a  fortnight  or  longer.  The  suites  in  the  semi- 
Japanese  wing  (with  foreign  furniture)  are  comfortable  and  are  a  bit  cheaper 
than  the  others.  Certain  of  the  interior  decorations  are  copied  from  those  in 
tlie  mausolea.  The  pictures  in  the  dining-room  are  of  famous  native  poets. 
Baths  free.  Laundry,  5  sen  for  each  article  irrespective  of  size.  —  Telephone 
connections  with  the  Lakeside  Hotd  at  Chuzenji.  —  Nikkd  Hotel,  10  min. 
beyond  the  Red  Bridge.  English  spoken;  rates  from  ¥4  to  ¥8  per  day,  with 
reduction  for  2  pers.  in  one  room.  —  A  number  of  Japanese  Inns  (comp.  p. 
xxxi v)  cluster  near  the  Kanaya  Hotel,  with  rates  ranging  from  ¥2  to  ¥3.50  a 
day  for  native  food  and  room.  There  are  several  small  so-called  hotels,  in 
semi-foreign  style,  in  Hachi-iahi. 

Shops  (comp.  p.  cxii)  abound,  and  as  some  of  them  have  grown  in  recent 
years  from  small '  holes  in  the  wall '  to  pretentious  establishments,  the  visi- 
tor should  be  sure  that  he  is  getting  fair  value  when  making  investments. 
Curios  can  usually  be  bought  to  better  advantage  in  Tdkyd,  Yokohama,  or 
Kyoto.  The  well-known  (and  almost  tasteless)  Nikkd  peppermints  are  sold 
in  many  places  at  50  sen  the  box;  the  kuri-yokan  (so-called  from  the  chestnuts 
mixed  with  the  sweetened  bean-paste)  is  good  and  cheap ( 10  sen).  Occasion- 
ally a  good  bear-skin  can  be  bought  in  the  fur-stores  which  make  a  spe- 
cialty of  the  skins  of  deer,  martens,  foxes,  rabbits,  etc.  Turned-wood  articles 
in  great  variety,  and  wistaria  walking-sticks,  are  sold  in  many  of  the  shops: 
the  plates  are  sometimes  made  of  a  tree-fungus  called  Boletus  versicolor,  and 
known  to  the  Japanese  as  Saru-no-koshi-kake,  or  Ape-stool.  It  clings  to  the 
trunks  of  old  f ohaceous  trees  in  mt.  forests  and  often  attains  great  dimen- 
sions. Bizarre  plates  varnished  black,  with  their  upper  part  hollowed  and 
lacquered  in  red,  and  with  borders  showing  2  or  3  growth-rings  of  the  mush- 
room in  all  its  natural  irregularity,  are  sometimes  seen.  The  easily  worked 
wood  of  the  horse-chestnut,  or  tochi'no'ki  (the  tree  which  gives  the  name  to 
the  prefecture  in  which  Nikkd  is  situated) ,  is  much  used  in  making  furniture 
and  small  articles.  Various  other  pretty  objects  are  made  from  the  black 
fossil  wood  found  near  Sendai.  The  dainty  little  trays,  and  cups  and  saucers 
(made  usually  of  magnolia  wood),  finished  in  black,  red,  or  gold-lacquer  (the 
latter  tarnishes),  are  very  fragile,  since  thepr  are  sawn  against  the  grain  and 
therefore  chip  easily.  Most  of  the  small  articles  turned  from  camphor-laurel, 
aider,  etc.,  come  from  Hakone.  Roots  and  branches  of  the  rhodoaendron  are 
here  hollowed  out  for  bowls,  ash-cups,  water-dippers,  and  what-not,  then 
lacquered  on  the  inside  and  provided  with  a  lacquered  cover.  Old  cork-like 
polyporus  is  treated  in  the  same  way,  and  furnishes  a  quantity  of  hollow 
vessels  which  attract  by  their  want  of  symmetry  as  well  as  their  originality. 

Nikkd  ('sunny  splendor'),  a  mt.  town  (pop.  8000)  in  the 

N.W.  part    of    Shimotsuke    Province,    perhaps  derives  its 

name    (a  corrupted  and   contracted  form  of  the   Chinese 

Nikwozan)  from    Nikkd^osatsUj  a  Buddhist  divinity  who 

resides  in  the  sun.  While  not  included  by  the  Japanese  in  the 

f three  great  aighta  *  it  nevertlQLe\ea&  appeals  stron^y  to  most 


HiOory.  NIEKO  U.  Route.    245 

foreigners.  The  solemn  and  impressive  grandeur  of  the  lofty, 
forest-belted  mts.  which  tower  above  it;  the  barbaric  splendor 
of  the  temples  and  mausolea  enshrined  in  their  noble  groves; 
the  austere  charm  of  the  plunging,  brawling,  ever-changing 
river;  the  cool  climate;  the  proximity  to  many  lovely  water- 
falls; to  the  near-by  Chu^enji  and  Yumoto  lakes,  and  to  other 
resorts,  make  it  a  sort  of  Mecca  not  only  for  resident  foreigners, 
but  for  travelers  from  many  parts  of  the  world.  In  few  places 
have  art,  nature,  and  religion  worked  together  with  such 
harmonious  results,  whence  the  oft-repeated  expression: 
'  Nikko  mirumade,  Kekko  to  iunfll'  — '  Until  you  have  seen 
Nikko,  do  not  say  splendid! ' 

Hittoiy.  Nikkd  came  prominently  into  history  when  the  Buddhist  bonae 
Shddd'Sh&nin  ('  pioneer  of  the  mountain  ')  erected  there  (in  766)  a  small 
shrine  which  he  cJEdled  Shihonryu-ji  ('  Temple  of  the  Four  Dragons  ').  Prior 
thereto  the  region  had  been  shunned  by  the  timid  because  of  a  superstitious 
dread  of  the  fierce  storms  which  whipped  it  from  time  to  time,  and  which, 
^*-  -  to  oral  tradition,  rushed  from  a  dark  and  fearsome  cavern  —  the 


ncnsome  nome  of  certain  malign  spirits  —  on  the  slope  of  Nantq^-zan,  which 
overlooks  LcUce  Chuzenji.  Shddo-Shdnin  declared  the  old  Shinto  deity  of  the 
mountain  to  be  only  a  manifestation  of  Buddha,  and  this  so  pleased  the 
simple  icXk.  that  in  808,  Ttichihana  Toshito  (then  governor  of  the  province) 
rebuilt  the  original  temple  on  a  lar^r  scale  and  called  it  Honryu-ji  ('Dragon 
Temple  *)•  Two  years  later,  Kyobtn,  a  disciple  of  Shodo-Shdnint  built  the 
Manfftoanr^t  which  became  the  chief  temple  of  Nikkd;  Kyobin  was  estab- 
lished as  its  first  superior  in  818,  and  its  head  bonces  were  named  b^  the 
emperor.  In  820,  Kdbo'Daishi  visited  the  region  and  changed  the  original 
name*  of  Futo-oro-yaina  (applied  to  it  because  of  the  storms  above-men- 
tioned) to  Nikkd-san  (the  name  of  the  present  range  of  mts.  on  the  N.W. 
boundary  of  Shimotaitke  Province).  The  pious  bonses  will  remind  the  scoffer 
that  from  that  day  the  evil  dragons  which  foregathered  in  the  cavern  on 
Nantai-zan  ceased  to  scourge  the  district  with  hurricanes,  albeit  NikkO 
remains  to-day  the  home  of  mist  and  rain. 

In  850,  Jikaku-Datshi  erected  3  large  temples  and  36  smaller  ones  at 
Nikk5,  and  thenceforward  it  became  a  sanctified  place  to  which  many  devo- 
tees made  annual  pilgrimages.  Several  emperors  and  ahoguns  made  grants 
of  land  to  the  temples,  which  eventually  (about  1220)  possessed  70  villages 
with  a  yearly  revenue  of  180,000  koku  of  rice.  In  1500,  Hideyonhi  con- 
fiscated the  tepaple  domains  with  their  incomes,  leaving  only  the  village  of 
Ashio  which  yielded  but  600  koku.  All  but  9  of  the  temples  were  demolished 
or  transported  elsewhere,  and  Nikkd  declined  greatly.  Its  second  rise  began 
in  1617,  when  Hid^tida,  the  2d  ahogun  of  the  Tokugawa  dynasty,  erected 
here  a  superb  mortuary  shrine  as  a  repository  for  his  father's  body,  then  tem- 
porarily enshrined  at  Kuno-zan  (Rte.  24) ,  a  lovely  spot  near  Shizuoka.  Under 
the  able  administration  of  the  high-priest  Tenkai,  Nikkd  from  that  time 
gradually  recovered  its  former  prosperity.  In  1645,  the  Emperor  Go-  Komyd 
conferred  on  leyasu  the  posthumous  title  of  Tosho-daigongen,  and  decreed 
that  every  year  an  Imperial  messenger  should  carry  presents  to  his  tomb. 
On  the  death  (in  1651)  of  the  ahogun,  lemitsu,  his  remains  also  were  brought 
here  and  a  temple  was  erected  to  his  memory.  In  1654  a  son  of  the  Emperor 
Oo-Mino-o  was  appointed  high-priest  of  the  Tendai  sect  of  Buddhists  and 
established  himself  at  Nikk5  in  the  primitive  Mangwan  Temple,  which 
was  thereafter  called  Rinno-ji,  and  became  known  as  its  principal  house. 
Since  that  time  its  superior  has  always  been  a  prince  of  royal  blood,  who  was 
called  R%nn6-ji  no  Mtya.  In  1871,  the  temple  took  its  former  name  of  Mang- 
wan-^iy  only  to  be  again  (in  1884)  re-named  Rinno-ji.  It  has  lost  much  of 
its  original  splendor,  and  is  now  commonly  known  as  the  Samhutau-do.  ^ 

Nikkd's  prestige  received  a  second  shock  at  the  time  of  the  Restoration; 
Buddhism  was  disestablished,  all  the  ecclesiastical  revenues  reverted,  to  tDbfi 
>;  the  temple  of  leyaau  (or  Toshogu)  was  shorn  of  much  ot  \ta  xaACD\* 
*-  Buddhist  paraphernalia,  and  of  its  gloriea  of  ritual;  the  2Q0  i»n«iM 


246    BmOe  14.  NIKKO  The  MamMna. 

whioh  gave  it  animated  splendor  were  scattered ;  and  it  was  converted  into  a 
iShintd  shrine.  The  temjple  of  lemitau  remained  Buddhist.  The  first  for^ 
eigners  who  were  [termitted  to  visit  NikkO  were  Sir  Harry  (and  Idtdy) 
Parkes,  Great  Britain's  representative  in  Japan  in  1870. 

The  Mountains  —  green,  lofty,  and  copper-impregnated  — 
which  half-encircle  Nikko  town  from  the  N.  toward  the  S.W. 
and  overshadow  it  with  their  mighti^  bulk,  are  an  ever-present 
delist.  They  seem  all  to  be  holmng  hands,  as  if  better  to 
keep  in  touch  with  the  holy  patriarch,  Nantai-zan.  Belted 
with  forests  of  splendid  conifers  and  a  host  of  other  evergreen 
and  deciduous  trees;  deeply  gashed  with  green,  veraure- 
choked  ravines  into  which  plunge  scores  of  lovely  waterftdls: 
flaming  with  fragrant  and  beautiful  wild  flowers,  and  peopled 
by  deer,  monkeys,  pheasants,  and  other  game,  they  hold, 
land-locked  in  their  higher  reaches,  exquisite,  dark-green, 
mirror-like  lakes  drowsing  in  endless  serenity  and  heedless  oi 
the  imperative  call  of  the  ocean  thousands  of  feet  below.  For  a 
great  part  of  the  year  the  highest  peaks  are  clothed  or  patched 
with  snow,  and  at  all  times,  from  their  easily  scalable  passes, 
one  may  enjoy  prospects  of  Nature  which  leave  one  speechless 
with  aamiration.  At  the  right  (N.)  of  the  town  rises  the  low. 
thickly  wooded  and  relatively  isolated  Toyama.  surmounted 
with  trees  and  a  small  rest-house.  Hard  by  at  the  left,  but  a 
trifle  hi^er,  with  patches  of  forest  on  its  bold,  grassy  slopes, 
is  Akanagi-yama  (8000  ft.),  linked  by  a  knife  ridge  to  the 
equally  imposing  Nyoho-zaUf  mentioned  hereinafter.  Below 
this,  at  the  left,  with  patches  of  bare  earth  showing  on  its 
sides,  is  Ko-Manago;  smaller,  as  its  name  implies,  than  its  big 
brother,  O-Manago  (7666  ft.),  which  stands  at  the  left  and  is 
conspicuous  for  the  bare  gullies  which  gash  it.  A  graceful  line 
sweeps  downward  from  its  lofty  shomder  and  forms  a  vast 
arSte  that  joins  it  to  the  sacred  Nantai-zan  —  the  monarch  of 
the  region.  The  twin  hummocks  on  its  near  side,  close  to 
Nikko,  are  called  Futago-yama  ('twin  mts.').  The  steepish 
hill  behind  the  Kanaya  Hotels  crowned  by  a  little  tea-house 
and  approached  by  a  good  path  whence  superb  views  are 
obtainable  in  retrospect,  is  Daikoku  ('good-luck').  The  entire 
region  is  washed  by  the  Daiya  River ^  a  right-hand  tributary  of 
the  Kinu-gawa,  which  comes  in  from  Sanno-toge.  —  The  spe- 
cies of  marble  quarried  in  certain  of  the  hills  is  called  Nikko- 
roseki. 

Climate.  The  summer  climate  of  Nikko  is  not  quite  in  keep- 
ing with  the  sunny  suggestiveness  of  its  name.  Fine  crisp  dajrs 
often  characterize  April  and  May,  but  when  spring  glides  into 
summer  the  rains  become  steady  and  nerve-trjring.  At  this 
period  many  of  the  rivulets  become  raging  torrents,  and  the 
waterfalls  miniatm^  Niagaras.  When  they  all  merge  their 
mudd^  waters  with  the  tumultuous  flood  of  the  raging  Daiyor 
^ufa,  it  tbreatena  the  entire  re^^on  wilh  ^a.tery  destnictioni 


The  Flowers.  NIEEO  U-  BmOe.    247 

and  requires  the  combined  efforts  of  most  of  the  townspeople 
to  dam  it  and  curb  its  furious  whims.  At  such  times  it  domi- 
nates the  town^like  an  evil  spirit,  roaring  and  tumbling  through 
the  gorge  and  smiting  the  high  retaining  walls  with  a  rage  that 
is  awe-inspiring.  Travelers  who  plan  mt.  excursions  on  davs 
which  open  simnily  should  fp  equipped  with  rain-coats,  for  the 
afternoon  may  see  a  vast  rain-soaked  blanket  of  clouds  sagging 
above  the  mt.  tops,  with  a  regular  sizzle-sozzle  pouring  from  a 
million  pin-holes  in  it.  Thimderstorms  are  features  of  the 
afternoon  rains  in  midsummer.  The  rains  slacken  in  Sept., 
and  Oct.  and  Nov.  are  usually  beautiful.  Heavy  snows  mark 
the  winter,  with  a  minimum  temperature  of  about  12**  F. 
above.  May  is  perhaps  the  best  of  the  spring  months,  and  Oct. 
in  the  autumn.  Travelers  at  all  seasons  should  carry  heavy 
clothing,  as  snow  flurries  not  unfrequently  occur  in  Apnl-May. 
The  almost  unexampled  wetness  of  Nikko  stimulates  the  plants 
to  sustained  activity,  and  produces  a  luxuriance  of  vegetation 
scarcely  equaled  in  the  same  latitude  an3rwhere.  Even  the 
tiny  pores  of  the  fence-fitones  and  the  granite  monuments 
send  forth  vivid  green  Protococcua  viridiSf  and  one  sometimes 
sees  fat  old  carved  stone  Buddhas  with  thick  and  grotesque 
wigs  of  bright  green  grass  or  close-clinging  green  lichen  all  over 
their  otherwise  bald  pates! 

The  Flowers  are  legion  and  are  all  beautiful;  the  plum 
blossoms  of  March  are  followed  by  those  of  the  cherry  in 
April,  and  by  the  lovely  drooping  wistaria  in  May.  June  is 
a  glory  of  azaleas,  clematis,  and  iris;  wild  varieties  of  the  latter 
idealizing  the  hillsides  as  late  as  July.  The  autumn  maples 
are  superb  and  must  be  seen  to  be  appreciated.  Scores  of  wild 
flowers  grow  in  wanton  profusion  on  the  mountain-sides,  those 
which  love  the  higher  slopes  and  the  cooler  air  looking  down 
upon  warm  ravines  wherein  flaming  azaleas  strive  to  emulate 
their  lofty  example  by  rising  in  tree-like  bushes  20  ft.  or  more 
high.  Splendid  conifers,  maples,  tochi-no-kif  lacquer,  and  other 
trees  add  their  different  shades  of  green  to  the  general  p^n. 
Nature  demonstrates  her  charm  most  strikingly  in  Nikko  in 
the  towering  cryptomeria  trees  whose  gigantic  proportions, 
unusual  height,  purity  of  form,  and  sumptuous  development  of 
foliage  harmonize  grandly  with  the  gleaming,  gold-flecked, 
green  copper-bronzed  roofs  of  the  temples  and  the  brilliant 
vermilion  of  the  fences,  pagodas,  and  shrines.  Some  of  them 
are  20  ft.  or  more  in  girth  3  ft.  above  the  ground  and  propor- 
tionately tall,  and  the  majestic  double-columnary  avenues 
formed  by  them  seem  to  stretch  out  into  infinity  and  to  encour- 
age the  lagging  pilgrim  by  their  grateful  shade.  They  form 
regal  approaches  to  the  sacrosanct  shrines,  and  once  arrived 
they  cluster  around  the  temples  as  if  to  serve  as  a  backraroujid 
ana  buffer  between  them  and  the  mts.,  rising  in  ^clafeXoiCVi^vcA 
them  and  giving  the  temples  themselves  the  heigVit  'w\uc^\)ae^ 


2i8    BauU  14.  NIEEO  Sacred  Red  Bnd(fe. 

lack,  and  which  deficiency  the  terraces  partly  supply.  Man 
feels  like  a  pygmy  as  he  walks  in  the  solemn  shade  at  the  foot 
of  these  faultlessly  straight  and  superbly  tall,  pyramidal  trees, 
which  seem  peculiarly  fitted  to  shelter  the  glittering  pomp  and 
pageantry  of  the  one-time  gorgeous  shogun  and  daimyd  pro- 
cessions. They  add  immeasurably  to  the  soothing  charm 
which  broods  above  Nikko,  and  they  repress  with  a  dominat- 
ing personality  the  sometimes  too  garish  tones  of  the  temples 
and  shrines. 

The  Sacred  Red  Bridge  (Mihdshi),  one  of  the  most  striking 
and  picturesque  objects  in  Nikko  (and  which  is  sacred  to  all 
but  the  small  boys  who,  monkey-like,  scoot  over  it  at  night), 
is  83  ft.  long,  18  ft.  wide,  and  rests  upon  two  monolithic,  toriV' 
shaped,  gray  granite  pillars  which  stand  at  either  end.  Between 
these  the  bridge  leaps  in  one  graceful  sweeping  arch  across  the 
rhyolitic  gorge  cut  by  the  river  below.  Lacquered  a  rich,  deep 
Indian  red,  which  shines  lustrously  in  the  summer  rains; 
adorned  with  black  metal  clamps  and  gilded  washers  that 
impart  a  tri-color  effect;  flanked  at  each  end  by  wide-sweeping 
wings  and  closed  (and  locked)  gates  that  are  resplendent  in 
black,  red,  and  gold,  the  bridge  makes  a  fine  bit  of  color  amidst 
the  dark  green  of  the  surrounding  trees  and  the  soft  gray  of 
the  rocks  beneath.  The  restless,  crystal-blue  river  which*raves 
unceasingly  below  it  refuses  to  reflect  the  warm  red  shape 
which  a  quiet,  glassy  pool  would  love  to  hold  in  its  embrace. 
The  effect  imparted  by  the  structure  is  that  of  one  built  on  a 
slight  curve.  It  iq  arched  in  the  center;  and  along  this  ridge 
(from  which  the  two  sides  slope  gently)  is  a  line  of  black  iron 
that  contrasts  harmoniously  with  the  lacquer  which  is  laid  in 
many  thick  coats  (red  above  and  black  underneath)  upon  the 
massive  keyaki  floor-beams.  The  ten  gihoshu  (p.  clxxxvi)  which 
crown  the  upright  posts  of  this  and  many  other  bridges  in 
Japan,  impart  a  funereal  aspect  to  it.  It  spans  the  river  112 
ft.  up  from  the  tram-car  (and  foot)  bridge  of  the  commonalty, 
an4  is  used  by  the  public  only  when  the  lower  bridge  is  out  of 
commission.  General  U.  S.  Grant  was  invited  to  walk  over  it 
when  in  |Nikk6  in  1879,  but  protested  that  it  was  too  sacred 
to  be  thus  defiled  by  him.  It  has  been  widely  copied  in  native 
art,  and  many  counterparts  exist  in  the  Empire.  The  original 
mihashi  was  constructed  in  1636,  and  for  many  succeeding 
years  it  was  opened  only  to  shoguns,  envoys  of  the  Mikado, 
and  (twice  yearly)  to  pilgrims.  According  to  the  record  it  was 
erected  to  commemorate  the  following  miracle:  — 

When  Shodo-Shonin  was  searching  for  Nantai-zan,  the  sacred  mt.  of  his 

dreams  (Just  as  the  wandering  Aztecs  sought  the  symbolic  eagle,  snake,  and 

cactus  in  the  Valley  of  Mexico),  he  reached  this  point  in  Nikkd  to  find  that 

the  rapid  waters  of  the  Daiya-^aioa  barred  further  progress;  thereupon  he  fell 

into  a  state  of  profound  meditation,  and  he  prayed  long  and  fervent!:^  that 

ilte  propitiatory  gods  might  aid  him.  Like  Santa  Rosa  de  Lima,  his  wisdom 

sad  '^'ntJint»fm  enabled  him  to  converse  with  the  birds  and  beasts  of  the 


Sacred  Red  Bridge.  NIKEO  I4.  BouU.    249 

fidds,  and  as  he  sat  on  the  near  bank  of  the  stream  where  it  is  now  spanned 
by  the  sacred  brid^  a  dragon  appeared  to  him  and  questioned  the  motive 
of  his  prayer.  Learning;  that  his  wish  was  to  cross  the  stream,  the  dragon 
retired  to  the  little  shrme  of  Jad-Gongen  (or  Shad'jinja;  which  still  stands 
at  the  opposite  end  of  the  bridge), whereupon  the  ^od  of  that  shrine  emerged 
holding  a  red  and  a  blue  dragon  in  his  hands.  Placmg  them  at  the  edge  of  the 
ravine  he  bade  them  form  a  bridge,  which  they  did  by  stretching  themselves 
to  the  other  shore  and  permitting  a  path  of  rich  green  grass  to  grow  instantly 
between  them.  Upon  this  miraculous  and  heavennsent  structure  J^onin 
quickly  passed  over.  From  this  circumstance  the  bridge  is  often  referred  to 
in  old  histories  as  the  Yamorauge-no-ja-bashi,  or  'mountain-grass-dragon- 
bridge.'  The  original  red  bridge  was  destroyed  Sept.  23, 1002,  by  one  of  the 
most  singular  catastrophes  in  the  history  of  the  region. 

The  June  rains  continued  far  into  the  autumn  and  the  entire  region  round- 
about suffered  under  an  almost  interminable  downpour.  Land-slips  occurred 
on  several  of  the  most  precipitous  peaks  of  the  environing  range,  but  the 
most  serious  (one  that  made  an  ineffaceable  record  in  local  annals)  was 
that  of  the  sacred  Nantav-zan,  overlooking  Chuzenji  Lake.  The  morning  of 
Sept.  23  opened  lowering  and  sullen,  with  such  thick  sheets  of  rain  that 
even  much  of  the  atmosphere  was  closed  out,  and  one  had  to  gasp  for  suffi- 
cient breath.  The  priests  and  bouses  were  praying  fervently  in  the  little 
temple  which  stood  on  the  mt.  flank,  near  the  edge  of  the  lake,  and  were 
assisted  by  many  pilgrims;  a  sentiment  of  impending  disaster  possessed  the 
usually  cheerful  people.  Suddenly,  at  about  8.30  a.m.,  a  wide  area  composed 
of  sodden  ash  and  volcanic  tufa  thickly  covered  with  forest  trees  and  under- 
brush, detached  itself  from  a  point  near  themt.  summit  and  began  to  slide 
down  its  steep  edde;  an  instant  later  it  gained  the  momentum  of  millions  of 
tons  of  matter  in  space  and  plunged  down  the  slope  with  unthinkable  swift- 
ness andFforce,  leveling  or  carryin|;  along  with  it  the  forest  in  its  path.  The 
doomed  priests  and  their  panic-stnken  suppliants  heard  the  awful  roar  of  the 
oncoming  avalanche,  but  before  they  could  even  reach  the  temple  doors  it 
had  lifted  the  whole  area  —  buildings,  trees,  graves,  shrines,  torii,  monu- 
ments, and  what-not  —  and  hurled  it,  along  with  the  people,  into  the  cold 
depths  of  the  lake;  there  to  bury  it  beneath  other  acres  of  d6bris. 

As  this  huge  mass  suddenly  plunged  to  the  500  ft.  bottom  of  the  lake,  a 
corresponding  body  of  water  leapt  upward,  and,  as  if  terrified  at  the  inva- 
sion, hurled  itself  in  blind  panic  over  the  Kegon  precipice.  When  it  hit  the 
300  ft.  bottom  of  this  abyss  it  bounded  down  the  mt.  side  and  shot  seaward 
like  a  small  world  sundered  from  the  law  of  attraction.  The  whole  of  the 
Nikko  mts.  seemed  to  tremble  beneath  the  furious  impact  and  the  mad  rush 
of  the  crazed  monster.  At  the  Uma-gaeshi  tea-house  —  which  was  kept  by 
an  old  woman  and  her  small  daughter  and  two  grandchildren  —  a  peasant 
bad  just  stepped  up  to  buy  a  pair  of  voaraji  and  a  tiny  cup  of  tea;  the  little 
grandaughter  was  tying  on  the  sandals;  the  daughter  was  singing  at  her 
household  chores,  while  the  old  woman  and  the  young  grandson  were 
gathering  brushwood  on  the  adjacent  hillside. 

Suddenly  there  broke  on  the  quiet  morning  air  a  roar  that  f rose  the  blood 
in  their  veins.  Then  the  twain  saw  the  vast  wall  of  onrushing  water,  boul- 
ders, earth,  and  forest  trees  strike  their  httle  home  and  hurl  it  hundreds  of 
feet  into  splintered  nothingness,  carrying  with  it  all  their  loved  ones  and  all 
their  earthly  possessions.  It  had  come  in  a  moment,  and  in  a  moment  it  had 
gone,  but  the  scars  it  left  are  still  to  be  seen  in  the  sorrowful  face  of  the  old 
woman  (now  installed  in  a  new  tea-house  built  by  her  friends)  and  in  the 
seared  lines  along  the  river's  bed.  The  only  warning  Nikkd  had  of  the  com- 
ing of  the  formidable  Frankenstein  which  the  sacred  mountain  had  startled 
out  of  Chuzenji' a  depths,  was  that  ominous  and  inexplicable  calm  which 
often  presages  disaster,  and  which  so  depresses  human  spirits.  Just  at  9 
A.M.  a  thoughtful  schoolmaster,  feeling  that  his  little  charges  would  be 
happier  at  home  than  in  the  big  school  house  across  the  river  (below  the 
present  bridge) ,  convoyed  them  across  the  lower  of  the  (then)  three  bridges, 
and  sent  them  scurrying  to  their  respective  nests.  A  minute  after  the 
hundreds  of  children  had  crossed  the  bridge  safely,  the  terror  was  seen  plung- 
ing down  the  gorge  with  a  shriek  that  was  hysterically  synchronized  by  every 
el^rically  charged  wire  in  the  town,  and  by  every  temple  beW  axA  %>3Ar 
pended  gong  within  the  aaored  grove.    The  huge  bel\&  mooned  «A  VL  Viv 


250    RoiUe  U.  NIEEO  The  Tempks. 

anrmsh,  and  they  hummed  and  biuaed  angrily  for  minntes  after  tiie  thing 
had  gone.  As  the  monster  approached  the  Red  Bridge,  it  reached  out 
octopus-like  arms  and  gathered  in  many  of  the  humble  homes  of  the  people 
along  the  river's  edge.  It  picked  up  a  dozen  or  more  of  the  great  stone 
Buddhas,  which  for  centuries  had  gazed  vacantly  at  the  stream  from  the 
Gamman-gorfuchi  bank;  wrenched  the  dainty  little  temple  of  Dainichirdd 
from  its  moorings  in  its  exquisite  little  garden ;  spun  it  into  position,  and  then, 
with  diabolical  frenzy,  hurled  it,  along  with  the  ponderous  granite  Buddhas, 
crashing  against  the  lovely,  shrinking,  sacred  bridge.  The  structure  leapt 
from  its  base  as  if  blown  up  by  dynamite,  dislodged  the  2d,  and  then  the  3d 
bridge,  and  shot  downstream  later  to  be  splintered  into  a  thousand  frag- 
ments and  strewn  over  a  hundred  miles  of  lowland  and  sea.  Fifty  lives  were 
lost,  3  bridges,  and  200  houses  were  wrecked  in  the  vicinity  of  Nikkd.  along 
with  several  of  the  waterfalls  which  had  hitherto  been  noted  for  their  beauty. 
The  *TempIes,  indubitably  the  finest  of  their  kind,  may  be  said  to  oe 
divided  into  two  groups:  the  leyasu  Shrines,  the  first  up  at  the  right  from  the 
nether  end  of  the  red  bridge;  and  beyond,  at  the  left,  the  lemitsu  Temples. 
The  former  are  under  the  supervision  of  a  Shinto  abbot  (office  at  the  Sho' 
muaho;  see  the  accompanying  plan);  the  latter  a  Buddhist  abbot  of  the 
Tendai  sect  —  under  whose  control  (office  in  the  Rinno-ji  compound,  near 
the  SambtUsu-dS)  are  also  the  Kyozd;  the  Sambutsu-do;  and  the  Museum  of 
Jemitsu  relics  (all  in  the  leyasu  group).  By  mutual  agreement  the  entrance 
fee  of  80  sen  (tickets  at  the  Kanaya  Hotel  or  at  the  ticket-offices  of  the 
respective  groups)  admits  one  to  both  sets  of  buildings,  although  in  some, 
additional  5-sen  fees  are  exacted.  Application  for  admission  to  those  struc- 
tures closed  to  the  general  public  must  be  made  to  the  respective  abbots. 
The  court  of  last  resort  is  the  Imperial  Household  Department  at  Tdkyd. 
Customarily  the  buildings  are  opened  at  7-8  a.m.  and  closed  at  4  p.m., 
albeit  some  of  the  auxiliary  structures  close  earlier.  One  cannot  reSnter  on 
the  same  ticket,  which  must  be  relinquished  when  the  2d  ^roup'is  visited. 
Morning  is  the  best  time  to  inspect  the  buildings,  and  if  possible  a  bright  day 
should  be  selected,  as  the  ceilings  are  low  and  floods  of  sunlight  are  requisite 
for  a  critical  examination  of  the  interiors  —  which  on  overcast  days  are  dark 
and  gloomy.  Hats,  shoes,  umbrellas,  walking-sticks,  outer-coats,  etc., 
must  be  left  at  the  Karamon  gate  of  both  mausolea,  where  they  are  kept  for 
a  small  fee  (5-10  sen  is  ample  for  a  party).  Dogs  are  excluded,  and  smoking 
is  strictly  forbidden.  Unusual  precautions  are  taken  against  fire  in  all  the 
buildings.  A  special  appointment  (p.  273)  in  advance  is  necessary  to  gain 
admission  to  the  Holy  of  Holies  of  the  leyasu  shrine,  and  a  special  permit 
(sometimes  obtainable  of  the  Imperial  Household  Department,  or  through 
one's  minister  or  ambassador)  and  appointment  for  that  of  the  lemitsu 
temple.  —  Cameras  are  permitted  in  the  temple  grounds,  and  pictures  can 
be  taken  of  the  exterior  of  the  buildings  only  on  a  previous  payment  of  ¥1 
for  each  group;  the  privilege  applying  only  to  the  day  and  hour.  Without 
this  permit  cameras  must  be  left  at  the  gate.  Good  pictures  are  possible  only 
on  bright  days,  as  the  wide  overhanging  eaves  cast  heavy  shadows.  —  Fees 
to  the  temple  attendants  are  unnecessary  unless  one  makes  special  demands 
of  them.  Japanese  usually  deposit  a  few  sen  in  the  contribution-boxes 
(which  because  of  their  size  can't  be  overlooked) ,  or  before  the  altars.  In  the 
latter  case  they  often  twist  a  wisp  of  paper  round  the  coin  before  tossing  it 
on  the  floor — an  ancient  custom  that  appeals  to  the  economically  disposed, 
since  it^masks  the  value  of  the  offering.  —  For  a  clearer  understanding  of  the 
chief  structural  features  of  the  buildings  the  traveler  is  referred  to  the  chap- 
ter on  Temple  Architecture  (p.  clxxii).  The  art  motifs  are  alluded  to  in  con- 
nection with  Buddhism  (p.  clxxxix;. 

The  Mausolba  owe  their  being  to  the  Tokugawa  shogun,  leyasu,  who 
commanded  his  son  Hidetada  to  choose  a  site  and  erect  a  suitable  structure 
to  receive  his  ashes.  When  leyasu  died  in  1616,  Hidetada  (who  had  suc- 
ceeded to  the  shdgunate  in  1605)  began  the  work  —  which  outwardly  was 
completed  the  following  year.  ()n  April  20,  1617,  the  cortege  (one  of  the 
grandest  in  Japan's  history)  bearing  leyasu' s  remains  left  Kun6-zan,  and 
reached  Nikkd,  May  8.  There  a  choir  of  Buddhist  priests  in  full  canonicals 
intoned  the  classic  scriptures  ten  thousand  times.  It  was  ordained  that  ever 
Afterward  the  chief  priest  of  Nlkkd  should  be  a  prince  of  the  Imperial  blood, 
witb  ibe  title  R%nn6-j%  no  miya.  An  envoy  ol  Vn.«]h  tank  was  subaequently 


NIKKO  MAUSOLEA 


Anntud  Procession,  NIKKO  I4.  RovOe.    251 

Bent  by  the  Emperor  to  the  ■hrine  once  a  year,  to  offer  saored  gilt  0OM 
(p.  cczix).  Tokugawa  lemitau  (  Hidetada'a  eldest  son)  amplified  hia  gnuod- 
father's  wishes  by  building  several  beautiful  adjuncts  to  the  main  wrine. 
The  belief  is  held  by  certain  secular  historians  that  this  splendor^loving 
sovereign  had  a  double  purpose.  Besides  erecting  a  sumptuous  sepulcher  for 
himself,  he  tried  not  only  to  dassle  the  daimyoa  by  the  fertility  of  his  own 
imagination,  and  by  his  practically  limitless  power  and  wealth,  but  also  to 
impoverish  them  in  their  competitive  efforts  to  contribute  to  the  beautifica- 
tion  of  his  costly  undertakings.  For  so  long  as  they  were  in  straitened  cir- 
cumstances rebellion  would  be  difficult,  and  none  could  venture  to  erect 
structures  half  so  magnificent  or  impressive.  That  the  wildest  extravagance 
is  displayed  within  and  without  the  temples  and  shrines  the  traveler  will  be 
able  to  note. 

The  temple  records  contain  no  estimate  of  the  original  cost  of  the  various 
structures,  the  careful  work  on  many  of  which  was  contributed  by  mikados, 
thoguna,  daimyoa,  etc.,  at  different  periods.  Even  the  names  of  the  great 
architects  and  artists  who  produced  here  the  finest  religious  architectural 
expressions  east  of  Agra  have  been  forgotten.  The  traveler  who  finds  himself 
pussled  at  the  application  of  Buddhist  enrichments  to  ShirUd  shrines,  and 
vice  veraa,  will  wish  to  remember  that  when  Buddhism  was  disestablished, 
its  material  separation  from  Shintdism  was  sometimes  impossible.  In  those 
cases  where  a  division  was  impracticable,  either  the  Buddhists  or  the  Shintd- 
ists  withdrew,  leaving  always  the  impress  of  their  distinctive  personality. 
The  flexibility  of  Buddhist  fanes  (which  formerly  were  put  together  without 
nails)  sometimes  facilitated  their  removal  bodily  from  Shintd  precincts. 
This  was  the  case  with  the  colossal  Sambutau-dd^  which  50  yrs.  ago  stood 
near  the  Futa-ara  shrine,  and  which  was  taken  apart  (along  with  the  Sdrinto) 
and  moved  to  its  present  site.  Though  under  Shinto  control,  and  with  a  cor^ 
responding  ritual,  the  leyaau  mausoleum  is  essentially  Buddhist  in  all  its 
externalities;  as  is  also  the  FiUa-ara  shrine  and  the  beautiful  Yakuahi-dd. 
The  thoroughly  gorgeous  Revolving  Library,  though  Buddhist,  is  within  the 
Shintd  compound.  —  A  general  restoration  scheme,  begun  in  1905,  is  still  in 
progress:  ¥320,000  are  being  spent  in  rejuvenating  the  buildings  —  some- 
times to  the  detriment  of  the  fine  old  colors.  The  four  chief  priests  of  the 
Jeyoiau  shrine  are  appointed  by  Gov't.  The  7  lessjar  ones  and  their  subor- 
dinates are  local  appointees. 

The  Annual  Procession  which  commemorates  Ieyaau*a  birthday  is 
gorgeously  spectacular  and  falls  on  June  2.  Ancient  costumes  are  worn,  and 
queer  palanquins  and  armor  are  features  of  it.  The  State  palanquins  proceed 
to  the  Futa-ara  shrine  on  the  afternoon  of  June  1,  where  a  special  ceremony 
in  which  Imperial  envoys  take  part  is  celebrated.  At  11  a.m.  of  the  2d,  the 
procession  proceeds  hence  to  the  Otahiahd,  where  the  sacred  dance  (flzuma- 
aaobi)  is  held.  A  somewhat  similar  festival,  in  which  many  of  the  towns- 
people join,  falls  on  Sept.  17,  and  is  supposed  to  celebrate  the  anniversary  of 
leyaau' 8  death  (albeit  he  died  in  May).  His  deified  spirit,  with  that  of 
Hideyoahi  and  Yoritomo,  is  supposed  to  occupy  the  palanquins  during  the 
procession. 

There  is  a  recessive  beauty  about  the  mausolea  which  does  not  appear  at 
the  first,  or  even  at  the  second  visit,  and  few  indeed  are  the  travelers  who  can 
at  once  sense  the  fine  undertones  or  appreciate  the  strange  assymetry  which 
governs  the  general  plan.  As  the  gorgeous  structures  blazing  with  gold  burst 
on  the  sight  from  the  deep-green,  sequestered  groves  which  so  lovingly  en- 
shrine them,  the  effect  is  so  dazzling  that  many  of  their  softer  graces  —  the 
shy,  subtle  touches,  the  deepening  of  shade,  the  correspondence  of  things 
remotely  related,  that  give  depth  and  elegance  to  the  whole  —  are  over- 
looked. Most  tourists  will  wish  to  visit  them  again  and  again,  for  each 
approach  reveals  some  fugitive  charm  previously  unnoted,  and  each  time 
one  gets  nearer  in  spirit  to  the  sentiment  of  the  great  artists  who  here  re- 
corded their  finest  achievements  for  the  admiration  and  appreciation  of 
future  generations.  Whosoever  finds  himself  in  Nikk5  when  the  moon  is  full, 
and  who  fails  to  see  the  temples  when  Luna  sheds  her  pale,  gossamer  radi- 
ance over  them  and  pencils  deep  shadows  beneath  the  great,  overhanging 
eaves,  out  from  under  which  glare  the  golden  eyes  of  the  minatory  diag,OTA\ 
or  when  she  lays  slender,  searching,  silvery  fingers  between  tVie  o\xtBfi»T«M\ 
.  bniuihes  of  the  giant  treea  and  traces  elGn  shadows  or  lace  fxetYroTk:  on  V^a 


252    Route  H,  NIKKO        Mausoleum  of  leyatH. 

traveled  walks  beneath,  loses  something  out  of  his  life  which  not  even  the 
Taj  Mahal  hy  moonlight  can  ever  quite  replace.  Then,  save  for  the  rush  of 
the  distant  nver,  a  solemn  stillness  broods  above  the  spot.  Silent  are  the 

Seat  bells  and  the  erstwhile  noisy  rooks  —  which  now  sleep  in  their  neets 
gh  in  the  topmost  branches  of  the  tall  cr3^tomerias.  The  great  torii  and 
the  fine  pagoda  loom  much  larger  than  during  the  day  when  the  sword-like 
sunbeams  out  the  clinging  shadows  from  about  them,  and  with  the  som- 
berly  lustrous,  coppernsheathed  roofs  with  their  gilded  crests  blinking  at 
the  face  of  the  moon,  make  a  beguiling  picture  which  one  does  not  soon 
forget.  Under  the  bewitching  influence  of  this  radiant  orb  the  memory 
hearkens  back  to  the  glittering  daimyo  and  ahogun  processions  which  an- 
ciently wound  beneath  the  great  trees  and  up  the  terraces,  and  one  can 
almost  hear  the  soft,  rhythmical  tramp  of  ghostly  feet,  the  hushed  swish  of 
brocade  robes,  the  murmur  of  long-dead  voices  and  the  chant  of  the  priestly 
■ritual  that  accompanied  the  processions  of  gorgeous  palanquins  and  mail- 
clad  samurai. 

The  leyaau  group  of  shrines  and  their  accessories  stands  within  a  series  of 
courts  occupjdng  graduated  terraces  one  above  another  on  the  side  of  a  hill 
called  Hotoke-^wa  (Buddha's  Rock).  No  central  axis  commands  the  ap- 
proaches and  communications;  the  courts  rise  one  behind  the  other,  and 
with  the  exception  of  the  Yamei-mon  and  the  Kara-mon  'their  great  gates 
are  not  so  arranged  as  to  lend  to  each  other  a  beauty  of  perspective  which 
no  other  art  would  have  neglected;  we  are  in  the  presence  of  a  play  of  imagin- 
ation that  verges  on  caprice,  that  seems  to  obey  no  logical  law;  and  that, 
nevertheless,  creates  pure  beauty  with  the  marvelous  elements  it  brings  to 
its  work.'  The  last  and  most  sacred  inclosure  is  the  highest  of  all,  and  behind 
this  rises  the  stately  forest,  high  up  in  the  wooded  heights  of  which,  reached 
by  a  roundabout  walk,  is  the  tomb  of  the  great  shdgun.  No  distant,  all- 
embracing  view  enables  the  traveler  to  get  a  definite  idea  of  the  general 
effect;  it  is  only  when  he  finds  himself  beyond  the  first  great  gate  ana  at  the 
foot  of  the  2d  terrace  that  the  multiplicity,  the  majesty,  and  the  almost 
overpowering  beauty  of  the  structures  and  their  sequestered  setting  flashes 
upon  him. 

Then,  as  he  ascends  through  the  marvelous  maze  of  barbarically  beautiful 
architecture,  beneath  torii  and  gateways  each  more  attractive  than  its  fel- 
low; past  towers  and  lanterns  and  detached  buildings  loaded  with  grace  and 
ornament  and  clamoring  for  attention;  progressing  to  the  final  sacrosanct 
holy  of  holies  like  some  devout  pilgrim  passing  through  successive  incarna- 
tions to  the  radiant  nirvana,  he  can  almost  believe  himself  in  some  fantastio 
fairyland.  To  the  artist,  and  the  architect  in  particular,  the  almost  unex- 
ampled richness  of  the  exterior  decoration,  the  wonderful  range  of  artistio 
conception,  the  beautiful  cementless  walls,  the  constructional  expedients 
employed  in  the  pagoda,  the  amazing  vigor  and  boldness  of  the  carved  panels 
of  the  terrace  inclosures,  and,  above  all,  the  commanding  beauty  and  dignity 
of  the  mass  appeal  strangely  and  potently. 

Scarcely  less  imposing  than  the  temples  themselves  are  the  sacred  groves 
of  colossal  cryptomerias  which  enshrine  them .  Pleasant  and  cool  on  the  hot- 
test days,  musical  with  the  cawing  of  rooks,  the  twitter  of  birds,  the  whim- 
pering of  crystalline  brooks  which  race  downward  through  them,  the  har- 
monious voices  of  the  great  booming  bells,  the  subdued  chant  of  priestly 
litanies  and  the  staccato,  reverberating  notes  of  Buddhist  drums,  and  often- 
times fragrant  with  the  clouds  of  incense  which  float  outward  from  the 
temples  and  drift  like  gray  ghosts  through  the  arms  of  the  trees,  they  add  a 
charm  and  a  restfulness  to  the  structures  which  no  other  vegetation  could 
give.  A  long  dynasty  of  abbots  and  bonzes  sleep  with  the  shoguns  beneath 
the  damp  mould  at  the  feet  of  the  stately  giants,  and  many  of  their  tombs 
arejmoss-grown  and  lichen-covered.  The  traveler  soon  begins  to  regard  the 
temples  and  the  groves  as  one  blended  Masterpiece  of  imperishable  charm,  as 
indeed  thdy  are,  for  the  buildings  were  designed  to  harmonize  with  their  sui^ 
roundings,  and  the  rich  coloring  of  each  of  the  structures  is  in  striking  accord 
with  the  wonderful  green  of  the  softening,  enveloping  foliage. 

The  Mausoleum  of  leyasu,  with  its  numerous  dependencies, 

18  about  i  M.  from  the  Kanaya  Hotel.    Beyond  the  Red 

Bridge  a  long,  finely  shaded,  up>Nacd-^\o^\a%  o^yenue,  called 


The  Sambutavrdo.  NIEKO  14.  B&uie.    253 

Nagaaakay  leads  to  the  left,  while  a  few  ft.  inward  is  a  more 
abrupt  one  which  joins  it  near  the  crest  of  the  hill.  The  lane 
leading  to  the  right  goes  to  the  temple  office.  The  3  small, 
shrine-like  structures  in  the  loop  formed  by  the  2  roads  consti- 
tute the  OtainshOf  the  terminus  of  the  procession  referred  to 
above.  Passing  the  Chdyo-ktoan,  or  Imperial  Summer  Retreat 
Oeft),  facing  a  noble  avenue  60  ft.  wide  and  i  M.  long  which 
leads  straight  to  the  final  inclosing,  we  come  to  the  Nil^d 
Park,  with  a  pretty  lakelet  spanned  by  quaint  bridges  and 
flanked  by  parterres  of  flowers.  The  footpath  which  crosses 
it  affords  a  short  cut  to  the  lemitsu  Maiisoleum.  The  gray 
monolithic  slab  on  a  slight  eminence  near  the  head  of  the  pond 
was  erected  by  the  Hoko-ktmi,  or  Nikko  Preservation  Society, 
and  bears  a  spirited  appeal  to  the  public  to  assist  in  preserving 
Nikk5  and  its  natural  beauties  in  their  original  state.  Within 
the  inclosure  at  the  right  of  the  wide  avenue  stands 

The  Sambutsu-do,  or  'Hall  of  the  Three  Buddhas,'  so 
named  for  3  colossal  Buddhas  which  occupy  a  large  part  of  the 
great  nave.  The  huge  red-and-gilt  structure,  88  ft.  high,  65  f t- 
wide,  and  102  ft.  long,  faces  S.  from  a  wide  terrace  where  the 
original  Mangwan-ji  once  stood.  The  wide-spreading  cherry 
tree  at  the  right  of  the  entrance  is  said  to  be  over  a  hundred 
years  old.  The  two  gigantic,  gaudily  painted  Nio  in  the 
vestibule  (admission,  5  sen)  are  ascribea  to  Unkei  (p.  ccxli) 
and  are  classed  with  the  best  examples  of  wood-carving  in 
Nikko.  The  vermiculated,  leprous-looking  figurine  in  a  baby's 
cap  and  bib,  at  the  left  of  the  striking  bronze  incense-burner, 
is  the  indiscreet  Binzuru  (p.  ccviii).  The  3  circular  brass  pic- 
tures above  the  bamboo  screen  which  cuts  the  nave  in  halves 
portray  Yakushi,  the  Medicine  God.  The  immense  roof  is  sup- 
ported by  64  splendid  keyaki  wood  columns  3  ft.  or  more  in 
diameter  and  hewn  from  single  great  boles.  The  kakemonos 
whdch  the  priest  offers  to  visitors  (50  sen  to  ¥5)  bear  a  portrait 
and  the  precepts  of  Tenkai-Shonin  {leyasu^s  friend  and  coun- 
selor). The  hackneyed  admonitions  urge  one  *To  be  slow  in 
anger,  firm  in  duty,  thin  in  color,  spare  in  diet,  and  broad  of 
heart.'  The  seeker  after  Buddhistic  wisdom  is  informed  *that 
the  more  one  gets,  the  more  one  wants;  hence,  blessed  be  he 
who.  unfilled,  is  yet  content! ' 

Tne  three  immense  images  {Amidaj  15  ft.  wide  and  27  ft. 
high,  in  the  center;  Senju- Kwannon  at  the  right;  and  Bato- 
Kwannon  at  the  left)  sit  on  wide  lotus-flower  bases  resting  on 
lacquered  platforms;  are  attributed  to  Jikaku-Daishi,  and  are 
excellent  specimens  of  Buddhistic  carving  and  gilding.  The 
poor  light  of  the  darkened  interior  interferes  with  a  detailed 
inspection  of  them.  A  smaller  figure  of  Fudo  sits  at  the  right, 
and  one  of  Yakushi  before  the  Amida,  At  the  left  are  carv^ 
figurines  of  Tenkai-  and  Shddo-Shonin.  The  hand-paaxvX/EA. 
mtmdara,  or  silk  and  lotus-Gber  bctoW  hanging  against  tiie"V^» 


254    Bauie  I4.  NIEKD  The  Bfatut  BdL 

is  old,  remarkably  preserved,  and  greatly  venerated;  the 
symbolic  figures  of  the  border  represent  the  Wheel  of  the 
Law.  The  16  Buddhas  and  bosaisua  in  the  outer  ring,  the  12  in 
the  central  square,  and  the  inner  portraits  of  ShaJea  Nyorai 
and  Tahd  Nyorai  are  painted  with  considerable  skill.  At  the 
rear  of  the  nave  are  some  uninteresting  carved  wood  figures 
—  veritable  blue  devils  —  of  Ftido  and  other  ruffianly  demons. 
At  the  rear  of  the  Samhvisvrddy  on  a  higher  terrace,  is  a  small 
•Buddhist  temple  dedicated  to  Ryo-Daishi  (the  two  DaishiSf 
whose  tombs  stand  on  the  hillslope  behind  the  FtUcUsurdo). 
The  tiny  images  of  deities  for  sale  by  the  priests  (10-50  sen) 
are  carved  out  of  grains  of  rice. 

The  S5rintd,  or  'Evil-averting  Pillar/  a  hollow,  cylindrical 
copper  shaft  rising  44  ft.  from  a  stone  plinth  30  ft.  square  at 
the  left  of  the  SamhiUsU'dd,  is  said  to  penetrate  the  socle 
(8  ft.  sq.)  to  a  depth  of  2  ft.  4  in.,  and  to  have  been  erected  at 
Nikko  in  1643  as  a  companion  of  the  Sorin  Pagoda  which  once 
stood  on  the  summit  of  Hie-zan,  near  Kyoto.  The  faded  gilt 
ideographs  on  the  shaft  (3  ft.  9  in.  in  diameter)  refer  to  its 
history  and  its  functions.  The  various  Buddhistic  symbols  at 
the  top  all  enter  into  the  mystical  process  of  keeping  demons 
at  a  SMC  distance.  The  heavy  open-work  gates  of  the  granite 
fence  are  carved  out  of  single  blocks.  The  two  elaborate  and 
strikingly  handsome,  heavily  chased,  bronze  lanterns  (20  ft. 
high)  near  the  steps  date  from  the  17th  cent,  and  were  pre- 
sented to  leyasu^s  shrine  by  a  guild  of  Osaka  silk  mercers,  with 
the  request  that  they  be  placed  within  the  shrine  inclosure, 
but  the  social  status  of  merchants  at  that  period  precluded  the 
realization  of  the  wish.  From  this  vantage-point  one  may  get 
a  comprehensive  view  of  the  great  proportions  of  the  SambuUu-' 
dOj  with  its  wide  eaves  from  which  pend  bronze  wind-bells. 

The  Bronze  Bell,  whose  grave,  sweet,  penetrating  notes 
mark  the  fleeting  hours  between  dawn  and  twilight,  swings 
from  a  weather-beaten  belfry  surmounting  a  stone  platform 
in  the  Samhutsu-do  compound.  It  is  about  6  ft.  high,  with  a 
mouth  49  in.  wide  and  lips  6  in.  thick.  A  curved  dragon  hook 
holds  it  in  space;  gilded  Tokugawa  crests  adorn  it,  and  there 
are  other  special  raised  crests  to  receive  the  impact  of  the  huge 
swinging  beams  with  which  it  is  struck.  A  notice  on  the  belfry 
warns  the  traveler  that  the  bell  must  be  touched  by  none  but 
the  man  who  comes  out  from  a  near-by  house  and  sounds  the 
hours  as  they  come  and  go.  The  great  beam  hits  the  hol- 
low bronze,  a  great,  buzzing,  angry  roar  issues  from  the  wide 
mouth  and  warns  all  Nikko  t^at  old  time  is  flying.  The  bell 
soimds  cracked  when  heard  near  to,  but  at  a  distance  the  tone 
is  very  pleasing;  a  melodious  voice  surcharged  with  memories 
of  the  hallowed  past.  The  other  bell  which  the  traveler  usu- 
aJlyheara  twice  a  day,  and  wlucli  soxinda  tVie  call  for  the  priesta 


The  Abboes  Garden.  NIKKO  U-  B^nOB.    265 

and  bonzes  to  foregather  for  their  frugal  meals,  hangs  in  the 
belfry  of  the  Ritsurdn, 

Almost  facing  the  Samhutsvrdd  is  a  group  of  buildings  called 
Rinno-ji,  wherein  dwells  the  Buddhist  abbot  under  whose 
immediate  jurisdiction  the  Buddhist  fanes  of  Nikk5  are 
assembled.  The  traveler  with  special  permits,  or  a  letter  to 
the  abbot,  should  crave  permission  to  see  the  charming  little 
landscape  garden,  as  well  as  the  beautiful  private  shrine  with 
its  choice  treasures,  both  of  which  are  within  the  residence 
compound. 

The  Abbot's  Garden,  with  its  tiny  winding  lakelet,  its 
lovely  dwarf  trees,  quaint  bridges,  summer-house,  and  adorable 
perspectives,  is  patterned  after  Uie  8  views  which  have  made 
Lake  Biwa  celebrated.  In  the  springtime  it  is  a  blaze  of  deli- 
cate plum  and  cherr^r  blossoms;  thence  through  the  summer 
and  autmun  —  when  it  is  a  gloiy  of  lovely  maples  -;-  it  shows 
in  sequence  many  of  the  exquisite  flowers  for  which  Japan 
is  noted.  At  all  times  it  is  a  tranquil,  sequestered  spot,  out 
it  is  particularly  so  at  twilight,  when  the  environing  groves 
are  redolent  of  fragrant  piny  odors,  and  a  spirit  of  peace  seems 
to  brood  above  it.  From  the  pretty  little  hill  and  arbor  at 
one  end  there  is  a  view  of  the  holy  Nantai-zan,  —  The  Private 
Shrine,  a  charmingly  refined  specimen  of  Buddhist  art,  is 
well  worth  seeing;  in  one  of  the  chastely  beautiful  apartments 
leading  to  it  are  some  handsome  old  screens  portraying  a  host 
of  strangely  clad  figures  that  take  part  in  a  sacred  dance  held 
in  Nikko  twice  every  century.  Fourteen  abbots  of  royal  blood 
have  worshiped  here,  and  their  mortuary  tablets,  artistically 
inscribed  with  jet-black  ideographs  on  a  gold  ground,  repose 
in  14  black  and  gold-lacquered  reliquaries  at  the  right  and  left 
of  the  high  altar.  Against  the  wall  of  this  sacrosanct  room  are 
some  kakemono  depicting  Buddha  and  his  disciples,  painted 
with  rare  good  taste  and  a  wonderful  fidelity  to  detail.  Under 
a  strong  glass  what  appears  to  be  delicate  tracery  is  shown  to 
be  hundreds  of  amazingly  perfect,  microscopic  heads.  In  a 
lateral  shrine  are  some  noteworthy  sculptured  wood  figurines, 
covered  with  copper,  of  Fudo  and  36  of  his  followers.  The 
almost  priceless  (Chinese)  seigi  bowl  which  one  may  some- 
times see  in  front  of  the  altar  was  a  gift  from  the  ill-fated 
Prince  Kitashirakawa  before  he  set  out  upon  his  Formosa 
campaign.  One  of  the  most  cherished  possessions  of  the 
Tendai-shu  in  Nikko  may  also  be  seen  here  (when  it  is  not 
stored  in  the  godown)  in  the  form  of  a  splendidly  illuminated 
mandara,  4  ft.  wide  by  8  ft.  long,  of  the  Buddhist  Paradise, 
perhaps  the  work  of  Kano  Motonobu  (p.  ccxxvii).  Buddha  is 
shown  in  the  center,  with  Kwannon  on  his  right  and  Seishi-' 
bosatsu  on  the  left,  amidst  scores  of  deified  temples,  saints, 
clouds,  scroll-work,  and  other  heavenly  attributes.  TW>\3k»i 
now  somewhat  defaced  by  time,  the  picture  is  exlTajc^tdacosiX^^ 


256    Rauie  I4.  NIEKO  Jemifoti  RdicB. 

masterful.  —  The  jusuma  of  the  aJtar-room  are  choice  speci- 
mens of  the  finest  modem  work;  the  12  polychrome  saints  and 
demons  are  portrayed  on  a  ground  of  gleaming  gold  foil,  and 
are  remarkably  effective.  The  hikitCf  or  metal  insets,  are  of 
the  finest  damascene  work.  In  an  adjoining  room  are  some  valu- 
able old  screens  (by  Matabeif  p.  ccxxviii)  illustrating  ancient 
processions  leaving  the  Sumiyoshi  Temple  at  Osaka,  and  pre- 
sented to  Jigen-Daishi  by  the  Emperor  Go-Yozei  in  1590.  — 
The  various  apartments  are  finished  in  flawless  hinoH  wood 
and  are  faultless  expressions  of  a  cultivated  taste  supplemented 
by  fine  spirituality. 

The  Museum  of  lemitsu  Relics,  in  the  Rinno-ji  garden,  at 
the  right  of  the  Samhutsu-dd  (open  from  7  a.m.  to  4  p.m.; 
admission,  8  sen;  shoes  must  be  removed),  contains  a  number 
of  personal  belongings  of  the  shogun  and  others  presented  to 
his  shrine.  In  the  rainy  season  the  most  perishable  objects  are 
wrapped  and  stored  in  the  near-by  godown.  The  malarious- 
looking  idol  which  faces  the  entrance  is  the  guardian  of  the 
museum  and  the  god  who  cherishes  all  precious  things.  The 
illuminated  kakemono  (about  300  yvB.  old),  hangine  against 
one  of  the  walls  at  the  right,  shows  Buddha  on  his  deatn-bed 
surroimded  by  the  myriad  creatures  that  loved  him,  and  the 
heavenly  spirits  awaiting  his  entry  into  nirvana.  Some  better 
specimens  of  (modern)  Japanese  illuminated  scroll-work  may 
bfe  seen  in  the  glass  wall-case  in  the  first  room  at  the  left.  The 
three  long  panels  representing  ancient  Buddhist  festivals  carry 
hundreds  of  tiny  figures  in  gorgeous  apparel,  glittering  daimyd 
trains,  temples  picked  out  in  gold,  gods  and  goddesses,  and  a 
host  of  religious  symbols  on  their  silken  surfaces,  and  indicate 
amazing  patience,  and  a  noteworthy  technique.  Near  this  is 
a  large  silk  kakemono  of  Yakushi-Nyorai,  painted  on  a  blue 
ground.  On  this  floor  there  are  some  old  kakemono  painted  by 
Kano  Tanyu;  a  number  of  swords,  arrows,  and  other  war- 
implements,  musical  instruments,  a  fine  big  rock-crystal  in  the 
rough,  a  handsome  lacquered  and  mother-of-pearl  inlaid 
palanquin  on  which  (it  is  said)  the  bones  of  the  shoguny  leyasu, 
were  brought  from  Shidziwka  to  Nikko,  and  many  articles  of 
minor  interest.  The  series  of  10  panel  pictures  of  the  Buddhist 
.  Judgment  are  by  some  unknown  Chinese  artist.  —  A  collec- 
tion of  articles  of  greater  merit  occupy  the  2d  floor;  the  several 
pieces  of  gold-lacquer  are  fine  and  rare;  the  smoky  rock-crystal 
IS  worth  looking  at,  as  is  also  a  well-painted  Buddhist  picture 
roll  (makemono)  about  12  in.  wide  and  50  ft.  long.  Here  also  is 
a  wood  figure  called  the  Laughing  Yakushiy  carved  with  a 
pocket-kmfe,  by  Shodd-Shonin;  a  shapely  bronze  lantern,  and 
a  lovely  (modem)  set  of  illuminated  scripture  rolls  setting  forth 
the  tenets,  in  exquisite  ideographs,  of  the  beliefs  of  the  Hokke 
sect  (p.  cci).  The  ends  of  the  flawless,  hand-made  paper  rolls 
—  which  are  kept  in  handbome  Xaccvvnct^^  sulxoAics^fia —  are 


The  Pagoda.  NIEEO  H.  Rauie.    257 

tipped  with  rock-crystals  set  in  chased  gold.  The  set  of  16 
brcmze  bells  which  once  formed  a  part  of  this  collection  are  in 
the  museum  of  the  leyasu  Shrine  on  the  first  terrace. 

The  fine  avenue  which  is  flanked  on  the  right  by  the 
Rinno-ji  and  the  Sambutsurdo^  and  on  the  left  by  the  park, 
leads  up  between  a  towering  hne  of  grand  old  cryptomerias, 
some  of  them  centuries  old,  to  a  colossal  stone  toriij  an  out- 
post to  the  shrines  beyond,  and  an  essential  feature  of  Shinto 
architecture.  It  is  27  ft.  6  in.  high  with  columns  3  ft.  6  in.  in 
diameter,  and  it  was  presented  by  the  daimyo  of  Chikuzen 
Province,  in  1618.  Besides  being  unusually  massive,  it  is  one 
of  the  first  granite  torii  to  be  erected  in  N.  Japan.  At  the  right, 
at  the  other  side  of  the  vermilion  fence  inclosing  a  grove  of 
tall  trees,  stands  a  small  group  of  buildings  which  serves  as  a 
sort  of  subsidiary  temple  outfit,  called  O  Kari-den,  where  the 
image  of  leyasu  is  housed  when  the  main  shrine  undergoes 
repairs.  At  the  left  of  this  is  an  attractive  bronze  tomb  be- 
neath which  are  the  ashes  of  a  treasure-godown  which  burned 
some  years  ago;  to  prevent  a  repetition  of  the  disaster  the  ashes 
were  collected  and  buried  here.  The  wide  avenue  leading  from 
the  left  of  the  torii  terminates  at  the  lemitsu  Temple;  the  one 
at  the  right  of  the  pagoda  leads  to  the  FiUoHira  Shrine, 

The  Pagoda  (p.  clxxxiii),  a  richly  decorated,  five-storied 
structure,  dates  from  the  17th  cent.,  is  105  ft.  high,  42  ft.  sq., 
is  one  of  the  finest  of  its  kind  in  Japan,  and  was  presented  by 
Sakai  WakazoHno-kamiy  a  stanch  adherent  of  the  Tokugawa, 
Its  peculiar  construction  renders  it  immune  against  minor 
earthquake  shocks  (from  which  Nikko  is  not  free),  as  the  im- 
mense central  pole  (in  this  instance  in  3  pieces)  is  102  ft.  long 
and  24  in.  in  diameter,  swings  within  12  in.  of  the  ground,  and 
acts  as  a  sort  of  huge  gyroscope.  The  rich  vermilion  of  its 
sides  (now  hushed  into  pleasing  tones  by  time  and  the  deep 
green  of  the  environing  trees),  the  jp-aceful,  upturned  comers 
of  its  multiple,  quadrangular  roofs  with  bronze  wind-bells 
a-swing  from  each  comer,  its  positive,  polychromatic  decora- 
tions and  metal  fitments,  add  a  decidedly  picturesque  note  to 
the  temple  group.  The  carved  and  multicolored  groups  (3  on 
each  side)  in  the  niches  formed  by  the  highly  tinted  compound 
brackets,  represent  the  12  signs  of  the  zodiac.  The  screw- 
shaped  metal  finial  at  the  topmost  point,  is  about  15  ft.  high 
and  serves  as  a  lightning-rod  and  a  demon-arrester.  In  the 
lower  story  is  a  small  shrine  encircled  by  a  narrow  ambulatory 
with  a  coffered  ceiling;  the  carved  and  gilded  figure  which 
faces  the  court  and  sits  with  back  to  the  shrine  is  Dainichi-' 
Nyorai;  that  at  the  left  is  Yakushi;  Shaka  sits  on  the  right,  and 
Amida  at  the  rear. 

A  flagged  path  leads  hence  to  the  steps  of  the  NH^-man^  at 
the  foot  of  which  (right)  is  the  ticket  office  —  wliere  earnest 
BUBt  he  left  unless  one  has  a  permit  to  introduce  tlbfixsi. 


i 


258    RaiUe  IJ^  NIKKO  TheNid-mon, 

Admission  tickets  must  also  be  obtsuned  or  shown  here.  The 
road  leading  around  the  shrines  to  the  right  of  the  big  gate 
goes  to  the  abbot's  office  (where  permits  for  photographing 
can  be  obtained). 

The  Nio-mott,  the  grand  entrance  to  the  successive  terraces 
beyond,  is  reacned  by  18  stone  steps  and  has  for  its  chief 
features  the  two  customary  sculptured  wood  Nio  (attributed 
to  Unkei  and  brought  hither  from  the  great  gate  to  the 
lemitau  Mausoleum).  They  stand  in  covered  loggias  7  ft.  sq., 
and  'their  threatening  attitudes,  furious  eyes,  convulsed 
mouths,  clenched  fists,  and  huge,  nervous  feet,  seem  rather  to 
menace  than  to  welcome  the  faitnful/  In  similar  cages  behind 
are  the  usual  amor  and  hmwrinu  (p.  clxxvii),  likewise  shown 
with  mouths  open  and  closed. — This  magnificent  outpost  to 
the  gorgeous  structures  beyond  was  almost  annihilated  by  a 
huge  crjrptomeria  which  fell  across  it  during  a  heavy  tempest 
in  1909,  and  much  of  it,  including  the  striking  ornamentation, 
dates  from  1911.  The  gracefully  curved,  copper-bronze  roof 
flecked  with  gilded  disks  bearing  the  Tokugawa  insignia,  the 
huge,  emblazoned  antefixes  that  resemble  automobile  fronts, 
the  massive  ridge-pole  gleaming  with  yellow  gold  and  flashing 
crests,  and  the  flaming,  rich  Indian-red  lacquer  spangled  here 
and  there  with  gold  and  backed  by  a  somber  foil  of  blaek, 
make  of  it  an  extraordinarily  striking  and  picturesque  object. 
Reds,  blues,  greens,  blacks,  and  gold  leaf  are  used  unsparingly 
in  Uie  marvelous  decorations,  which  are  charmingly  enriched 
by  a  wealth  of  metal  fitments.  The  black  and  gold  of  certain  of 
these,  —  in  the  form  of  bosses,  rosettes,  and  hinges  (the  latter 
for  appearances  only),  —  applied  to  the  lustrous  red  of  the 
massive  doors,  produce  an  unusually  harmonious  note.  The 
doors  themselves  swing  on  huge  pivots  let  into  soffits  above 
and  below,  and  the  general  effect  recalls  certain  of  the  newly 
decorated  doors  of  those  Mexican  cathedrals  dominated  by 
Mudijar  influence.  The  big  bolts  which  aid  the  two  surly 
giants  to  keep  out  demons  and  other  undesirables  are  6  ft.  long 
and-  4  in.  sq.  —  The  richly  chased  brass  sockets  in  which  the 
beam-ends  are  sheathed  serve  as  ornaments  and  for  preserving 
the  wood  from  insects  and  the  weather.  The  cross-beams  are 
embellished  with  a  striking  diaper-pattern  in  a  medley  of 
colors,  while  below,  at  salient  angles,  are  gilded  heads  of  the 
mythological  haku  and  clusters  of  sculptured  flowers.  In  the 
spandrels  formed  by  the  grouped  supports  of  the  elaborately 
decorated  compound  brackets  are  polychromatic  kirin  and 
brazen  Dogs  of  Fo,  while  beneath  the  cross-beam  on  the  inner 
side  of  the  passage  are  panels  of  tigers  carved  in  high  reliedT. 
It  is  worth  while  to  step  to  the  ends  of  the  structure  to  observe 
the  maze  of  gilding,  wood-carvings,  intricate  tracery,  fabulous 
beasts,  peacocks,  and  what-not  which  adorn  them.  While 
the  general  decorative  Bcheme  oi  t^na  a\xv\c\>>\t^\^dMvlicated  on 


leyani  Shrine.  NIKKO  14,  Route.    259 

some  of  the  buildings  of  the  upper  terraces,  its  iHX)portions  are 
more  pleasing  than  some  others,  it  can  be  observea  from  more 
points  of  vantage,  and  certain  of  the  carvings  are  subordinated 
to  truer  architectural  positions. 

The  First  Terrace,  a  neatly  pebbled,  irregular  court  inclosed 
by  wood  fences  and  stone  walls  (the  latter  worthy  of  attention), 
is  conspicuous  for  the  temple  storerooms  which  stand  at  the 
right;  the  central  building,  an  extraordinarily  elaborate  struc- 
ture with  5  porch  tie-beams  surmounted  by  groups  of  splendidly 
carved  and  gilded  phcenixes,  contributes  one  of  the  *  sights  ' 
erf  the  inclosure,  in  the  form  of  a  pair  of  grotesquely  carved  and 
decorated  elephants  in  the  act  of  trying  to  retain  a  precarious 
foothold  on  a  narrow  ledge  beneath  the  gable  roof.  The  curi- 
ous position  of  the  leg  joints,  the  ring  about  the  ear  of  the 
darker  beast,  and  the  fact  that  the  tails  and  toes  are  not  those 
of  known  species,  suggest  that  their  talented  portraver,  Mr, 
Hidari  JingorOj^  never  saw  a  real  elephant.  The  walls  of  the 
edifices  look  squashed  by  the  weight  of  the  massive  roofs,  and 
the  metal  enrichments  make  them  appear  not  unlike  gigantic 
accordeons.  The  Greek  key-pattern  in  all  its  purity  occupies 
a  prominent  place  amid  the  maze  of  arabesques,  diaper-work, 
crests,  and  tracery. 

The  Treasures  of  the  leyasu  Shrine  are  preserved  in  the 
building  with  the  elephant  panel.  Open  from  8  a.m.  to  4  p.m.  ; 
admission,  8  sen.  Shoes  must  be  removed  at  the  foot  of  the 
steps.  The  splendid  gold-lacquered  chests  in  the  twin  glass 
cases  near  the  entrance  belonged  to  leyasu;  his  covered  palan- 
quin with  a  bullet  hole  in  the  roof  stands  at  the  right.  The 
ancient  costumes  in  the  cases  at  the  left  were  worn  in  the 
dance  pictured  on  the  gilded  screen  near  by.  The  16  small 
bronze  bells  in  a  red-  and  gold-lacquered  frame,  belonged  to 
leyasuj  and  though  alike  externally,  when  struck  they  produce, 
with  fine  effect,  the  clear,  sweet  tones  of  two  octaves.  They 
bear  the  name  Minamoto  Shigemunej  and  are  interesting  in 
that  the  musical  scale  of  the  Europeans  was  not  employed  by 
the  early  Japanese.  The  key  to  the  case  is  kept  by  the  abbot 
and  can  be  obtained  only  as  a  special  concession.  The  large 
lacquered  box  in  the  upper  case  once  held  the  skdgim^s  corre- 
spondence. The  small  metal  badge  was  employed  by  him  as  a 
clepsydra  (mizudokei)^  an  article  in  common  use  in  Old  Japan. 

1  Hidari  JingorS  (1594-1634)  was  a  son  of  Itami  McucUoshi,  and  a  samurai 
in  the  service  of  the  Ashikaga.  His  trade  was  that  of  a  carpenter,  but  he  early 
developed  a  talent  for  carving  wood,  and  he  rose  to  be  one  of  the  most  cele- 
brated sculptors  in  Japan.  He  was  left-handed,  hence  his  name  Hidari. 
These  two  elephants,  and  his  sleeping  cat,  referred  to  hereinafter,  are  famous 
in  NikkO.  Some  of  his  finest  work  may  be  seen  in  the  Niahi'  Hongtoanji 
Temfde  at  Kyoto.  Because  of  a  whimsical  turn  of  mind,^  he  was  fond  of  carv- 
ing cats,  some  in  an  attitude  of  sleep,  others  crouchixu;  and  watching.  A 
number  of  the  latter  are  scattered  throughout  Japan,  and  oertam  oi  \.\i«im.  «x« 
to  BfeDke  Uiat  real  cats  *  have  been  known  to  put  up  thdr  backs  and  spvt  «bt 


260    Route  I4.  NIEEO  The  Kyik^. 

The  3  bronze  vases  and  the  incense-burner  are  early  Korean 
work.  The  relics  in  the  succeeding  cases  comprise  head-dresses, 
mirrors,  ivory  maces,  a  dressing-case  used  by  leyasu's  wife, 
10  finely  tempered  swords  presented  by  different  shogunSf 
some  clothing  (including  Chinese  shoes)  worn  by  leyasu, 
metal  lanterns  that  lighted  the  shoguns  through  the  holy  of 
holies  in  ancient  times,  silk-reels  used  by  Imperial  consorts, 
a  big  drum  employed  in  the  sacred  dance,  and  a  7-ft.  elephant 
tusk  given  by  some  one  to  leyasu. 

At  the  left  of  the  Nio-^mon,  surrounded  by  a  stone  fence,  is  a 
kdya-maki  about  10  ft.  in  circumference,  which  is  said  to  have 
come  from  the  famous  monastery  of  Koyasan,  to  have  been 
planted  here  by  leyasu,  and  to  be  the  largest  of  its  species  in 
Japan.  Near  it  (with  a  curious  slope  to  the  roof)  is  the  one-time 
stable  for  the  horse  (recently  deceased)  which  carried  the  illus- 
trious Prince  Kitashirakawa  in  the  Formosan  campaign  of 
1895.  The  monkeys  in  the  carved  panels  of  the  building  are 
mentioned  in  the  footnoted  The  small  red  structiure  next  to 
the  stable  is  called  the  Red  Watch-House,  wherein  the  guardian 
of  the  terrace  dwells.  Next  in  line  is  the  elaborate 

Stone  Water  Basin  (On  Chozu-ya),  an  immense  rectangu- 
lar basin  of  fine  gray  granite  92  in.  long,  48  wide,  and  40  high, 
presented  in  1618  by  Nabeshima  Naoshige,  feudal  lord  of  the 
fief  of  Saga,  in  the  province  of  Hizen^  from  which  place  (nearly 
a  thousand  miles  aistant)  it  was  brought  to  Nikko.  It  weights 
several  tons,  but  its  surface  is  leveled  with  such  precision,  and 
it  is  adjusted  so  evenly  on  its  base,  that  when  a  surplus  of 
water  (which  comes  in  from  one  of  the  mt.  cascades  and  is  sold 
to  pilgrims  for  the  purification  of  hands  and  lips  before  enter- 
ing the  shrines)  is  admitted  it  wells  evenly  over  the  sides  like 
a  sheet  of  glass.  The  resplendent  baldachin  which  shelters  it  is 
supported  by  12  monolithic  columns  of  varying  dimensions. 
The  tops  of  these,  as  well  as  parts  of  the  horizontal  tie-mem- 
bers, are  encased  in  hammered  metal  sockets,  diapered  in  fine 
patterns,  and  ornamented  with  the  shogunal  arms.  Almost 
every  shade  between  white  and  black  has  been  drawn  upon  to 
furnish  the  decorations  of  the  superstructure,  and  this  medley 
(which  blends  admirably  when  seen  from  a  distance)  is  further 
enriched  by  tinted  carvings  of  winged  dragons,  and  a  series  of 
ciurious  but  characteristic  brackets  supporting  a  graceful, 
sweeping  roof  with  rounded  gables.  The  twin  dragons  above 
the  gorgeous  tie-beam  are  particularly  noteworthy.  The 
siunptuous  red  building  near  by  is 

The  Kydz5,  or  rinzo  (Library  of  the  Sacred  Books).  A 
special  permit  must  be  obtained  from  the  abbot  at  the/2tnnd-7t, 

'  This  Simian  trinity  is  called  Koshin,  and  represents  the  'day  of  tiie 

monkey'  in  the  old  Japanese  calendar.  The  native  conception  is  that  these 

aonkeya  (aaru)  will  neither  see,  hear,  nor  speak  any  evil,  whence  they  are 

called  blind  (mi) ,  deaf  ikika),  and  dumb  ^iwd).  TYic^v  ue  often  portrayed 

in  the  native  art. 


TheKydsi^  NIKKO  U.  Route.    261 

as  the  building  is  closed  to  the  general  public.  Few  structures 
in  the  Nikk5  group  are  better  proportioned,  and  the  slight 
upward  tilt  at  the  roof  comers  imparts  a  piquant  touch.  A 
system  of  complicated  and  profusely  decorated  compound 
brackets  fitted  to  a  nicety  support  the  roof,  which  is  sheathed 
svnth  copper-bronze,  hung  with  brass  wind-bells,  and  tipped 
with  a  continuous  course  of  antefixes  that  resemble  ancient 
cannon  and  are  adorned  with  raided  Tokugawa  crests.  The 
granite  plinth  from  which  the  edifice  rises  is  50  by  50  ft.  The 
exterior  is  a  harmonious  blend  of  blue,  green,  and  gold  on  a 
ground  of  rich  Indian  red,  and  black  lacquer.  When  it  was 
miished  it  appeared  so  perfect  to  its  designer  that  he  feared 
to  incur  the  wrath  of  the  gods,  and  to  insiure  his  personal  saf etv 
he  inserted  several  warped  uprights  in  the  front  divisions,  which 
were  also  made  of  unequal  widths.  The  gracefully  ciurved 
windows,  the  profusion  of  metal,  the  handsomely  embossed 
doors  swung  on  pivots  let  into  soffits,  are  all  worthy  of  atten- 
tion, as  are  also  tne  multi-colored  decorations — which  continue 
quite  around  the  structure  —  and  the  well-painted  fl3dng 
phoenixes  in  the  panels  under  the  eaves.  Tigers,  elephants, 
rabbits,  birds,  dragons,  flowers,  the  mythological  kirin,  butter- 
flies, and  a  multiphcity  of  geometrical  designs  —  many  of  them 
sculptured  —  are  expressed  in  low  and  pleasing  tones.  The 
carved  elephant  in  the  panel  above  and  at  the  left  of  the  door 
is  accredited  to  Hidari  Jingoro,  The  ornament  on  the  top- 
most point  of  the  roof  is  the  demon-arresting  hoshu-na^ama. 

The  cheap  and  lurid  decorations  of  the  Interior  are 
strangely  at  variance  with  those  outside.  When  the  outer  doors 
are  opened,  inner  ones  of  sloe-black  lacquer  with  wire  screens 
instead  of  panels,  are  revealed,  and  when  these  are  slid  back 
one  sees  the  smiling  and  apparently  blinking  sculptured  wood 
figures  of  Fu'Daishi  (p.  ccix),  with  his  sons  Fvken  and  Fujdf 
seated  near  the  Revolving  Library  (which  is  said  to  contain  the 
complete  Buddhist  scriptures).  Because  of  the  presence  of  this 
idol  the  building  is  often  called  Warai-do,  The  gaudy  bookcase 
(20  ft.  high  by  15  ft.  in  diameter)  is  pivoted,  and  despite  its 
i^eat  mass  and  wei^t  a  strong  push  will  set  it  to  revolving. 
TTie  fljdng  dragons  m  the  lower  panels  suggest  Chinese  influ- 
ence. The  raised  platform  which  extends  around  3  sides  of  the 
inclosure  shows  gamboling  shishi  on  the  lower  panels.  Huge 
dull  red  pillars  support  the  roof.  The  panels  in  the  clerestory 
are  adorned  with  flying  tennin  on  a  gold  ground;  those  of  the 
cofifered  ceiling  have  painted  phoenixes  on  a  pearl-gray  ground. 
The  sepia  dragon  on  the  big  cross-beam  is  by  some  painter  of 
the  Kano  school. 

The  statuesoue  bronze  torii  which  stands  on  the  same  terrace 
with  the  nw20  has  Greek  tracery  round  the  base  and  on  the  tie- 
beam  and  is  studded  with  gilded  Tokugawa  crests.  TVie  Ui&ii^} 
■tone  and  metal  htntems  were  gifts  by  various  daimijoa.  T\[!& 


262    Route  14'  NIEKO  The  Secoipd  Temfce. 

two  near  the  foot  of  the  steps,  8  ft.  5  in.  high  and  perforated 
with  the  sun,  the  crescent,  and  the  swastika,  were  made  (about 
1630)  of  namban-tetsu,  or  'foreign  iron';  were  presented  b> 
Date  Masamune,  the  feudal  lord  of  Sendai,  and,  like  the 
famous  iron  monument  at  Delhi  (India),  have  withstood  for 
nearly  300  yrs.  the  corrosive  effects  of  an  unusually  wet  climate. 
Ferns  and  grasses  grow  from  the  old  stone  lanterns,  which  are 
marked  with  the  name  of  the  donor  and  are  hoary  with  age.  — 
Twenty-two  stone  steps  leads  hence  to 

The  Second  Terrace.  At  the  top  of  the  stairs,  at  the  right 
and  left  are  two  weather-stained  corbel-like  stone  shishi  in 
an  attitude  of  leaping  downward  from  the  lichen-  and  moss- 
covered  stone  balustrade  which  flanks  the  edge.  Each,  with 
its  attached  pillar,  is  carved  from  a  single  block  of  stone,  and 
according  to  local  tradition  they  so  pleased  the  shogun, 
lemitsu,  when  he  came  from  T5kyo  to  inspect  the  work  of  his 
architects,  that  he  forbore  to  pass  adverse  criticism  on  the 
remainder.  The  Bronze  Bell  swinging  from  the  massive  metal 
b^dachin  at  the  right  was  presented  by  a  one-time  king  of 
Korea,  and  it  is  known  locally  as  the  'Moth-eaten  Bell' 
because  of  an  air-bubble  which  broke  through  the  casting  and 
left  a  jagged  hole  near  the  top.  The  ponderous  elephant  heads, 
with  gold-plated  eyes,  at  the  salient  angles  of  this  and  the 
companion  baldachin  across  the  walk,  attract  attention.  The 
roofs  of  the  canopies  are  lighter  in  color  than  the  bronze  of  the 
temple  roofs,  and  the  creaulous  believe  that  gold  was  mixed 
with  the  metal.  Hard  by  is  a  Bronze  Candelabrum  pre- 
sented by  the  King  of  the  Loochoo  Islands;  behind  it  is  a  tall, 
metal-studded  belfry  used  as  a  storehouse  for  odds  and  ends. 
The  fine  cryptomerias  on  this  terrace  are  noteworthy;  the  one 
at  the  right  measures  21  ft.  9  in.  in  circumference,  3  ft.  above 
the  base,  and  is  a  trifle  smaller  than  the  larger  of  the  2  on  the 
opposite  side  (left)  —  which  measures  nearly  26  ft.  The  one 
benind  the  tower  is  25  ft.  2  in.  in  girth;  the  fine  red  of  the  cedar 
shows  where  the  bark  has  been  chipped  off.  At  the  left  is  a 
drum-tower,  a  companion  piece  to  the  opposite  belfry;  near  it 
is  a  bronze  candelabrum  (inclosed)  brought  from  Holland  and 
presented  to  the  shrine  by  the  Dutch  Resident  of  the  Deshima 
factory  at  Nagasaki,  Near  thisl  is  an  elaborately  twisted 
Bronze  Lantern  evidently  of  allied  origin.  It  turns  on  a 
pivot  in  its  base  and  is  celebrated  locally  because  the  series 
of  bronze  Tokugawa  crests,  which  adorn  the  upper  part,  are 
turned  upside  down;  the  trefoil  leaves  being  cast  (because  of 
the  ignorance  of  the  maker)  in  reverse  order. 

The  Yakushi-dd,  or  Temple  of  Yakushi- Nyorai  (p.  cciii), 

was  made  in  imitation  of  the  Horaiji-in  in  Mikawa  Rx)vince, 

and  is  dedicated  to    Yakushi,  who  was  the  patron  saint  of 

Iet/€uu.  It  stands  at  the  extreme  left  of  the  2d  terrace  and  is  at 

onoe  the  most  beautiful,  arckatectvnaW^  ^a^istying,  and  splen* 


I 


The  Yakashirdd.  NIKKO  I4.  BoyU.    263 

didly>  preserved  funerary  temples  of  the  leyasu  group.  A 
;H|^«rbly.rich  red  lacquer  porch  adorned  with  brass  ornaments 
aSSa*  black  giboshu  encircles  the  building,  which,  because  of 
its  interior  splendors,  its  air.  of  solid  worth,  and  elegant  rich- 
ness, appeals  strongly  to  the  visitor.  Until  quite  recently  the 
pubuc  was  debarred,  as  the  interior  was  considered  too  sacred 
to  be  exposed  to  public  view.  In  the  general  outer  decorations 
it  resembles  others  of  the  leyasu  shrines,  but  the  workmanship 
of  parts  of  the  interior  is  finer  and  more  opulent.  Its  plan  is  a 
square,  like  that  of  the  Rimo,  and  its  only  defect  is  that  it 
stands  on  a  pitifully  restricted  area,  flanked  on  one  side  by  a 
hi^  (but  beautiful)  stone  wall  whence  a  good  perspective  view 
18  impossible.  This  frowning  wall  and  the  towering  trees 
contiguous  so  darken  the  interior  that  twilight  reigns  on  the 
brightest  day.  The  richness  of  the  edifice  is  such  that  many 
days  would  be  needed  to  inspect  it  in  its  minute  details,  to 
obtain  an  insist  into  the  aims  of  the  masters  who  decorated  it, 
and  to  understand  those  decorations  in  all  their  mythological 
intimations.  The  material  expression  of  the  artist's  thoughts 
are  expended  on  the  exterior  in  the  shape  of  writhing  dragons 
(note  the  white  ones  wriggling  along  the  3  huge  tie-beams 
between  the  4  outer  posts  of  the  porch),  gilded  elephant  heads, 
carved  groups  of  polychromatic  birds,  flowers,  and  animals; 
and  such  a  wealth  of  decoration  and  ornament,  carried  over 
every  inch  of  exposed  surface,  that  the  eye  wearies  in  following 
out  the  intricate  patterns.  What  involved  and  profuse  carv- 
ings are  to  certain  of  the  most  highly  decorated  old  Buddhist 
fanes,  the  wealth  of  arabesques  in  colors  are  to  this.  Yet 
carvings  are  not  wanting;  in  the  niches  formed  by  the  network 
of  pink-tinted  compound  brackets  there  are  (17  on  the  fagade, 
11  on  the  right,  17  in  the  rear,  and  11  at  the  left)  clusters  of 
such  excellentiy  sculptured  birds  (including  some  solemn  owls), 
flowers,  and  animals,  that  each  one  is  worthy  of  close  study. 

Mounting  the  broad,  lacquered  steps  the  visitor  finds  himself 
in  the  wide  vestibule  separated  from  the  nave  by  a  series  of 
black-lacquered,  sliding,  lattice-work  doors,  heavily  banded 
with  finely  made  damascene-work  remarkably  preserved.  While 
these  doors  impart  a  note  of  mourning  to  the  maze  of  bright  ex- 
tmor  decorations,  all  the  varying  suggestion  of  color  was  taken 
into  consideration  by  the  painter,  and  they  are  quite  in  keeping 
with  the  character  of  the  shrine.  The  superstructure  of  the 
vestibule,  particularly  the  immense  tie-beams,  exhibits  such  in- 
tricately ornamented  surfaces  that  the  flawless  wood  resem- 
bles costly  native  brocades.  Though  rich,  the  colors  are  quiet 
in  tone,  accented  with  much  gold,  in  pattern  and  ornament, 
witii  designs  so  carefully  and  symmetrically  balanced  and 
worked  out  to  an  ever-disappearing  end  that  one  marvels 
a^  the  fertility  of  imagination  and  the  admirable  tec\inic!j^<& 
of  tbese  old  master-craftsmen.   One  also  applauds  tliek  uuBJi- 


264    Route  H,  NIKEO  The  YakuskMd. 

if  est  restraint,  for  the  poise  of  the  opul^t  oim  nniCTiimte^jg 
judiciously  maintained,  with  a  fine  subordination  Ut^l^^^^ 
tistic  to  the  Orientally  fantastic.  —  The  12  paintiod  Bkwn 
ranged  around  the  vestibule  show  the  birds  in  their  diff^ent 
feathers  from  Jan.  to  Dec.  [Hawking  was  a  favorite  pastime 
of  leyasu,  and  this  building,  which  is  said  to  have  been 
erected  before  his  death,  was  his  favorite  shrine.]  The  myth- 
ological phoenix,  carved,  colored,  and  shown  in  many  grace- 
ful postures,  forms  the  classical  subject  of  the  magnificent 
panels  of  the  architrave,  the  work  of  which  is  admirable  and 
indicative  of  a  talent  of  no  mean  order.  The  Tokugawa  crest 
adorns  the  central  panels  of  the  richly  coffered  ceiling  —  thus 
supplementing  the  classic  with  the  political,  and  completing 
the  cycle  of  early  Japanese  thought.  The  bronze  gong  which 
sits  on  a  stand  at  the  left  of  the  entry  conceals  a  siurpassingly 
sweet  tone;  when  struck  a  strong  blow  it  gives  forth  a  surpris- 
ingly melodious  and  tenacious  note,  the  dying  echoes  of  which 
linger  in  the  air  for  several  minutes. 

A  fee  of  5  sen  is  customary  when  one  passes  behind  the  slid- 
ing doors  to  the  rectangular,  sacrosanct  interior  —  which  is  of 
a  surpassing  luxuriance.  Twenty-two  massive  keyaki  pillars 
of  noteworthy  asymmetry  —  some  of  them  21  in.  in  diameter, 
covered  with  red  lacquer  and  then  with  gleaming  gold  foil  in 
such  profusion  that  they  resemble  great  uprights  of  soHd 
metal  —  support  the  huge,  regally  decorated  cross-beams,  each 
of  one  piece  and  each  covered  from  tip  to  tip  with  intricate 
polychromatic  tracery.  Such  an  abundance  of  grotesque  deco- 
rations in  gold  and  colors  wanders  over  the  walls  and  up  to  the 
ceiling  that  minor  beauties  and  effects  are  lost  sight  of,  and  the 
brain  wearies  in  its  efforts  to  assimilate  the  picture.  The  floor 
is  of  heavy  black  lacquer  polished  like  a  piano  top,  and  along 
one  side  of  it  there  rises  an  elevated  platform,  also  heavily  and 
showily  lacquered,  with  side  panels  of  excellently  carved  Dogs 
of  Fo  and  lotus-flowers.  Resting  upon  this  dais  is  a  wonderful 
object  in  the  form  of  a  treasurfe-shrine,  of  sumptuous  gold- 
lacquer  ornamented  with  chased  metal,  and  dove-tailed,  with 
no  nails  in  its  construction  (a  characteristic  of  many  Japanese 
temples).  Inside  the  reliquary  (closed  to  the  public)  is  a 
beautifully  sculptured,  and  expressive,  gilded  figure  of  Yakuahi- 
Nyorai  backed  by  a  handsome  pierced  mandorla  completely 
covered  with  heavy  gold  foil  after  the  style  of  the  finest 
Borramenisco  work.  At  each  outer  corner  stands  in  full  war 
panoply  one  of  the  Shi-Tennd  —  Jikoku  at  the  East;  Zocho 
at  the  South;  Komoku  at  the  West,  and  Tamon  at  the  North. 
At  the  right  and  left  of  the  shrine,  6  on  either  side,  in  unusual 
mythological  fullness,  stand  highly  colored,  superbly  chiseled 
fi^fures  of  the  12  signs  of  the  zodiac.  Some  repose  in  front  of 
pierced  and  gilded  mandorlas,  and  the  zodiacal  signs —  in 
the  forms  of  the  animals  wbicl:!  lepieaeiiX.  \iJDkSai — ^sa  cunningly 


The  Third  Terrace.  NIEEO  14-  Route.    265 

oon^MMi  in  the  helmetfl.  or  about  their  habiliments.  There 
arete tl^,i»ther  figures  representing  celestial  bodies,  while  hang- 
ing bdibre  the  s&ine  is  a  massive  chased  metal  tengai,  a  present 
from  the  wife  of  a  one-time  feudal  baron  of  S(iga  Province. 

Not  the  least  interesting  of  the  interior  enrichments  is  the 
unusually  large  dragon  (drawn  in  Chinese  ink,  by  Kano 
Y(i8unobu)  which  almost  entirely  covers  the  immense  ceilins 
—  itself  54  ft.  long.  18  ft.  wide,  and  made  of  hinoki-vnyod 
planks  one  inch  thick.  Albeit  Yasunobu's  dragons  are  usually 
enveloped  in  clouds,  this  one  is  bare,  and  because  of  this 
peculiarity  it  is  called  the  Naked  Dragon.  By  standing  be- 
neath its  head,  and  clapping  the  hands  together,  a  spooky 
sound,  considerably  like  a  death-rattle,  is  heard  all  over  the 
temple.  No  sound  other  than  a  hand-clap  will  evoke  it,  nor 
can  an  answer  be  elicited  unless  one  stands  directly  beneath 
the  head.  From  this  peculiar  quality  it  is  called  also  the  Crying 
Dragon. 

On  leaving  the  Yakushi-doy  pass  clear  around  to  the  rear  of 
the  structure  and  note  the  chaste  beauty  of  this,  as  well  as  that 
of  the  sides.  At  the  right  is  the  finest  stone  wall  in  the  inclo- 
sure,  erected  and  presented  to  the  shrine  in  about  1630  by 
JDofe  Masamune,  The  comer  stones  are  monolithic  in  propor- 
tions, while  those  of  the  center  measure  on  an  average  30  by 
36  in.  a<»*oss  the  face.  Like  most  of  the  Japanese  walls  of  this 
character  the  stones  are  so  accurately  cluseled  that  neither 
mortar  nor  cement  is  needed  to  hold  them  in  place,  and  in 
some  instances  the  joining  is  so  perfect  that  the  most  aggressive 
vegetation  finds  difficulty  in  getting  a  foothold  between  them. 
TTie  splendid  state  of  preservation  after  nearly  3  centuries  of 
use  is  attributed  to  a  thick  sheet  of  lead  which  is  said  to  have 
been  placed  originally  at  the  back  to  keep  out  moisture. 

The  Y6mei-mon,  or  (2d)  great  gate,  stands  at  the  edge  of  the 
Third  Terrace,  12  steps  up  from  the  2d.  The  natives  love  to 
call  it  the  Htguraahi-no-mon,  or  *Sunrise-till-dark '  gate,  because 
an  entire  day  can  be  spent  8tud3dng  its  wonderful  details.  It 
is  one  of  the  most  elaborate  structures  in  Nikko,  and  is  24  ft. 
high,  22  long,  and  15  deep. 

The  manifest  aim  of  the  artist  who  designed  this  Oriental  masterpiece  was 
that  it  should  be  observed  from  a  distance,  in  contradistinction  to  the 
interior  of  the  temples,  whose  amazing  decorations  will  usually  bear  the 
closest  scrutiny.  It  is  sculptured  with  an  almost  incredible  wealth  of  detail, 
and  when  seen  from  the  terrace  below  it  is  strikingly  barbaric  and  opulent, 
flhimmering  with  a  splendor  that  kindles  the  enthusiasm.  So  viewed,  its 
minor  crudities  —  i>erhaps  inseparable  from  a  work  of  its  class,  but  which 
bring  a  shade  of  disillusionment  if  analyzed  too  closely  —  are  subordinated 
to  the  genenU  harmonious  effect,  which  unequivocally  is  appealing.  To  help 
the  critic  to  a  proper  appreciation  of  his  work,  the  skillful  designer  adroitly 
placed  on  the  2d  terrace,  at  Just  the  required  distance  from  the  gate,  both  as 
RCanls  height  and  angle,  the  two  striking  but  less  elaborately  ornamented 
drmn-  and  bell-towers,  whose  superstructure,  it  will  be  noted,  t^ouo)^ 
Mtimlihinirb"  complicated  and  attractive,  does  not  hold  the  eye  and  nvet  ^e 
fHitfiaMioa  mtb  the  tenacity  and  force fulneaa  that  seem  to  radiate  Itoiq.  t^ie 


266    R(nae  U.  KIKKO  The  Third  Terrace . 

isate  itself.  To  heighten  the  general  e£Feot,  and^ierhaps  to  act  as  siiNff  V>  the 
imagination,  the  smaller  (and  sometime),  nrore  jewel-like  Kar€Hfbon  w)m  ao 
placed,  beyond  it,  that  the  Ydmeir^mon  served  as  a  superb  frame  for  a  dain- 
tier and  more  attractive  picture.  And  in  this  shrewd  sidjustment  theHSeguil- 
ing  artifice  was  employed  of  making  Just  enough  of  a  wmsome  disclosure  to 
awaken  a  desire  to  have  more  disclosed.  The  resultant  e£Fect  is  tiiat  of  twin 
angles  gradually  converging  toward  an  apex  in  which,  with  studied  careless- 
ness, the  flawless  gem  of  the  group  is  naively  placed.  That  both  gates,  when 
viewed  from  a  short  distance,  are  rich  and  glowing  segments  in  an  extraor- 
din^iiily  attractive  group,  —  one  that  deftly  reveals  a  hitherto  undreamed-of 
symphony  of  form  and  color,  —  the  average  traveler  will  doubtless  admit. 
He  will  also  no  doubt  conclude  that  the  Ydmei-mon  — :  which  is  distinctively 
and  purely  Japanese  —  is  far  finer  than  the  KarcMnon,  —  which  is  Chinese 
in  conception  and  perhaps  in  workmanship,  —  and  also  that  both  are.  un- 
questionably the  floridly  barbaric  expression  of  a  high  ideal  in  structural  art. 

The  gateway  itself,  though  sadly  mauled  by  the  hand  of 
time  (re-decorated  in  1911),  is  a  marvel  of  architecture  and  of 
wood-carving  enriched  by  metal  fretwork  deserving  of  close 
study.  It  is  two-storied,  with  long  and  elaborately  decorated 
wings,  on  whose  outer  side  are  many  boldly  sculptured  panels; 
on  the  inner  side  there  is  a  finely  lacquered  (red)  and  simply 
decorated  corridor  11  ft.  wide  and  676  ft.  long,  with  a  key- 
pattern  in  blended  colors  serving  as  a  string-course.  In  their 
respective  loggias  at  the  right  and  left  are  seated  figures  of 
Sadaijin  and  Udaijin,  ancient  guards  in  all  the  panoply  of  war. 
Behind  them,  in  corresponding  cages,  are  upstart  Korean  lions, 
whose  belligerent  attitude  is  evidently  inspired  by  the  intensity 
of  the  colors  applied  to  their  pelts.  The  side  panels  of  these 
cages  are  deeply  carved  and  represent  large  peonies;  the  nar- 
rower panels  above  them  show  aquatic  birds  and  phoenixes. 
The  groups  of  carved  and  vari-colored  flowers  in  the  niches 
between  the  gilded  brackets  of  the  roofs  are  not  unattractive, 
and  they  are  supplemented  by  painted  tennin  on  panels.  The 
sepia  dragons  in  the  roof  of  the  portico  are  attributed  to  Kano 
Motonohu.  The  multiplicity  of  ornamentation  is  carried  even 
to  the  pickets  of  the  cages,  which  are  sheathed  in  chiseled  brass 
sockets. 

The  major  part  of  the  lower  structure  is  of  a  creamy  white 
enriched  with  numerous  metal  fitments  that  blaze  in  the  sun- 
light. At  the  right  and  left  of  the  loggias  are  carved  wood 
panels  of  frolicsome  shishif  in  basso-relievOj  whose  coats  have 
preserved  the  soft,  light  patina  of  the  original  white  paint. 
The  huge  Dogs  of  Fo  with  gilded  eyes,  teeth,  and  nails,  which 
seem  ready  to  leap  down  upon  the  visitor  from  the  cross- 
beams of  tne  gate,  have  wires  sticking  in  their  muzzles  to  add 
to  their  fierce  mien.  They  are  the  most  striking  ornaments  of 
the  massive  beams,  above  which,  in  niches  formed  by  the 
angles  of  the  highly  decorated  compound  brackets,  are  succes- 
sive and  slightly  projecting  groups  of  indifferently  carv^ 
figures,  in  high  relief  and  with  elaborate  robes,  of  Chinese 
aagea.  Another  line  of  gilded  Dogs  of  Fo  extends  above  these, 
ADd,  with  the  upturned  enda  oi  cer\«vTi  ol  >i)aa>aia.<te.\s,  support 


The  Third  Terrace.  NIKKO  U.  RauU.    267 

H  mietalHstudded  balcmiy  in  the  panels  of  which'  are  other 
croups  of  Chinese  boys  at  play  amidst  flowers;  some  ride 
hobby-horses,  others  carry  youngsters  pick-a-back,  while 
others  read  books  or  plav  upon  musical  instruments.  These 
designs  run  quite  around,  the  structure,  but  at  the  rear  fcK)th 
big  and  little  men  seem  to  feel  out  of  sight,  and,  laying  aside 
the  dignity  which  is  supposed  to  clothe  persons  so  enshnned  in 
art,  they  are  seen  to  be  riding  upon  huge  fishes,  dragons, 
cranes,  phoenixes,  and  what-not,  ana  to  be  indulging  in  various 
ludicrous  pranks. 

The  upper  story  (reached  only  by  a  ladder)  is  given  over  to 
huge  white  and  gilded,  crimson-throated  dragons  in  almost 
every  conceivable  attitude:  there  are  terrific  dragons  with 
cruel-looking  claws  and  spiny  tails;  others  with  hoofs  like 
horses;  ascending  and  descending  dragons;  dragon  heads  and 
dragon  tails;  involved  dragons  and  simple  dragons;  but  so 
many  of  them  that  one  suspects  the  artist's  fertility  of  inven- 
tion suddenly  deserted  him,  and  dragons  and  more  dragons 
was  all  that  he  could  think  of.  A  few  graceful,  carved,  and 
^ded  hdiDO  in  low  relief,  and  in  different  positions,  occupy 
niches  below  the  brackets,  and  are  seen  painted  on  the  support- 
ing roof-beams  above.  Metal  wind-bells  pend  from  quaint 
hooks  at  the  comers  under  the  eaves.  The  elaboration  of  the 
minor  detail  of  the  structure  is  uniquely  intricate.  Carved 
flowers,  arabesques,  groups  of  figures,  tinted  clouds,  water- 
scapes, (tiaper-pattems,  and  ornamental  compositions  drawn 
by  the  brush,  nammered  up  in  metal,  and  wrought  by  the 
sculptor's  tools  are  so  arranged  that  the  whole  is  pleasing  in 
proportions  and  of  a  striking  color-harmony.  The  graceful, 
curved  gabled  roof  is  sheathed  with  copper-bronze  and  provided 
with  gilded  antefixes  of  crests  and  other  designs.  The  upright 
pillars  are  of  peculiar  interest  to  the  Japanese,  to  whom  the 
odd  and  bizarre  appeal  quite  as  strongly  as  the  artistic.  Of 
massive  keyaJci-woody  they  are  carved  all  over  with  a  minor 
geometrical  design  inio  which,  at  intervals,  are  inserted  carved 
m^allions  of  birds,  flowers,  mythological  and  other  animals. 
Plt)minent  among  these  (note  the  central  pillar  at  the  left)  is  a 
medallion  showing  a  pair  of  frolicsome  tigers,  the  fine  stripes 
of  whose  coats  are  formed  ingeniously  by  the  delicate  and 
splendid  veining  of  the  wood.  The  next  pillar  (inside,  left)  is 
called  the  Moryoke-no-Hashira,  or  *Evil  Averting  Pillar';  its 
cl^m  to  fame  rests  on  the  fact  that  the  basic  design  is  (when 
compared  to  that  of  the  others)  carved  upside  down,  and  the 
cicerones  who  conduct  hundreds  of  pilgrims,  foreign  visitors, 
native  soldiers,  students,  and  others  through  the  shrines,  elicit 
gasps  of  credulous  amazement  by  explaining  that  it  was  done 
purposely,  to  avert  the  just  anger  of  the  gods  at  having  erected 
mum  a  magnificent  structure!  The  fact  that  the  ii\iiQfixo\i& 
iwrved  meaallioDB  are  upright,  and  that  the  mmoT  cax^m^ 


268    Route  U.  NIEKO  The  Third  Terrace. 

only  are  reversed,  smacks  more  of  error  than  of  design.  —  The 
sculptures  of  the  side  wings  of  the  gate  are  bold,  crisp,  and 
decisive,  and  they  must  have  been  very  beautiful  when  new. 
The  left  wine  is  shorter  than  the  right;  the  sloping  roof  or 
copine  extends  3  ft.  over  the  side,  but  it  has  not  protected 
entirely  the  carvings  or  their  decorations  from  the  attacks  of 
the  weather.  Each  wing  carries  two  series  of  panels,  the  upper 
ones  (7  at  the  left  and  15  at  the  right)  displaying  sculptured 
phoenixes,  flowers,  bamboos,  storks,  etc.;  the  lower  series,  of 
pierced  work,  ovaliform  and  with  lacquered  margins,  carrying 
aciuatic  fowl  —  ducks,  geese,  herons,  etc.,  in  repose  or  in 
flight.  Above  the  upper  row  are  horizontal  connecting  beams 
diapered  with  a  hexagonal  pattern  and  ornamented  with  metal 
fittings.  Higher  yet  is  a  series  of  narrow  wave-work  panels. 
Consummate  skill  is  a  salient  characteristic  of  all  the  work.  — 
In  former  times  no  merchant  was  allowed  to  pass  beyond  the 
gate,  and  samurai  were  obliged  to  leave  their  swords  without. 
The  ancient  sign  which  still  stands  at  the  right  of  the  steps, 
near  the  foot,  requests  royalty  not  to  ride  horses  through  Uie 
gate  nor  permit  themselves  to  be  carried  in  in  chairs! 

At  the  right  of  the  Yomei^mon  (on  the  3d  terrace)  stands  a 
dainty,  richly  decorated  building  called  the  Kagura-den, 
wherein  a  comely  virgin  priestess  (who  looks  the  part,  and 
who  wears  a  white  surplice  over  a  brilliant  skirt,  with  a  nun's 
bonnet  on  her  head,  and  carries  a  wand  in  her  hand)  goes 
through  a  few  clipped  motions  of  the  sacred  dance  in  exchange 
for  the  sundry  coppers  which  travelers  and  pilgrims  toss  into 
the  room.  Metal  hooks  hold  up  the  side  blinds,  and  the 
Imperial  16-petal  chrysanthemum  crest  is  noticeable  amidst 
the  polychromatic  decorations.  The  structure  is  an  attractive 
blend  of  black,  red,  and  gold,  barring  the  highly  tinted  basket 
of  flowers  (evidently  an  afterthought)  on  the  gilded  panel  at 
the  right-hand  corner.  Directly  opposite  this  edifice  is 

The  Goma-dOf  or  Incense  Hall,  with  a  handsome  porch 
and  a  brilliantly  decorated  fagade  blazing  with  brass  ana  gold 
foil.  On  the  panels  above  the  porch-beams  a  number  of  big- 
eyed  fish  are  sculptured.  Groups  of  carved  and  tinted  pheas- 
ants in  high  relief  adorn  the  nicnes  of  the  compound  brackets, 
and  the  green  panels,  or  pickets,  with  metal  cnd-sheaths,  that 
form  the  window-bars,  impart  a  not  unhandsome  look  to  the 
black  and  red  lacquered  structure  —  which  because  of  the 
perforated  ceiling  that  allows  the  smoke  from  the  cedar-wood 
incense  to  escape,  is  often  called  tengai.  The  12  painted  hawks 
in  the  interior  are  replicas  of  those  in  the  Yakushi-dOy  and  they 
show  the  birds  in  the  twelve  periods  between  Jan.  and  Dec. 
Some  merit  is  claimed  for  these  pictures,  which  were  painted 
by  Sakai  Tadakatsu  (1587-1662),  one  of  the  four  principal 
lieutenants  of  the  shomm^  leyosw.  The  priests  here  offer  for 
Bale  (the  conuneroial  idea  is  atioii|^\v  de^^Vy^vDiXbft  bonzes  ol 


The  Fourth  Terrace.  NIEKO  I4.  Route.    269 

the  Nikk5  temples)  painted  kakemono  showing  leyasu  and  a 
facshnile  (with  an  English  translation)  of  his  precepts:  the 
cheapest  scroll  costs  15  sen;  the  ordinary  ones,  ¥l,  and  the 
silk  ones,  ¥5.  The  large  gilt  panels  in  the  room  are  the  work  of 
Kand  TanyH.  —  The  handsomely  decorated  edifice  across  the 
courtyard  from  the  Ydmei-monf  at  the  left,  is  the  Mikoshi-ddy 
or  Palanquin  House  (closed^  to  the  public),  where  the  palan- 
quins employed  in  the  annual  procession  are  stored. 

The  Eara-mon,  or  Chinese  Gate,  so  called  because  the 
design  and  general  decorative  plan  are  Chinese,  and  the  rare 
woods  used  in  its  construction  were  imported  from  China, 
stands  on  the  Fourth  Terrace,  is  3d  in  the  series  of  gates,  and  is 
reached  by  5  short  steps  which  lead  up  from  the  court  below. 
It  is  smaller  than  the  YdTnev^morij  less  ornate,  and  more  dilapi- 
dated. It  was  re-decorated  in  1911,  but  its  pristine  beauty  was 
not  restored.  Shoes,  canes,  outer  wraps,  umbrellas,  etc.,  must 
be  left  here  (cameras  also,  sometimes)  before  one  can  inspect 
the  inner  side  of  the  gateway  or  proceed  to  the  honden.  The 
traveler  who  wishes  to  inspect  the  exterior  sides  and  rear  of  the 
honden  must  come  equipped  with  slippers,  else  he  must  walk 
around  the  yard  in  his  sock  feet,  as  the  ground  is  too  holy  to 
be  trodden  upon  with  shoes!  —  A  long  dynasty  of  writers, 
accepting  the  dictum  of  some  earlier  authority,  have  worked 
themselves  up  to  a  fine  frenzy  over  this  gate,  describing  it  as  a 
miracle  of  proportion  and  ornament,  the  exquisite  acme  of 
Buddhistic  achievement  —  and  what-not.  While  showing 
traces  of  former  beauty,  it  is  now  so  decrepit,  and  so  badly 
defaced  by  time  and  the  elements,  that  it  is  apt  to  strike  the 
critical  traveler  as  crude  and  decayed.  The  wings  at  the  right 
and  left  form  an  interior  corridor  12  ft.  wide  and  522  ft.  long, 
which  extends  quite  around  the  inclosure.  Dragons,  plum 
branches,  bamboo,  and  the  like  are  entwined  about  the  upright 
columns  of  the  gate  and  are  affixed  thereto  with  brass  nails; 
this  ornamentation  extends  from  the  uprights  over  the  lintel, 
whose  brackets  are  tufts  of  deeply  carved  chrysanthemums. 
The  sculptures  in  general  lack  delicacy;  they  cover  almost 
every  inch  of  the  remaining  pillars  and  panels,  the  motives 
being  medallions,  rosettes,  and  flowers.  The  latter  are  particu- 
larly noticeable  between  the  series  of  horizontal  members 
superposed  one  above  another,  the  upright  panels  of  which 
are  formed  of,  and  covered  by,  flowers  and  aquatic  plants. 
Just  beneath  these  is  a  procession  of  indifferently  sculptured 
figurines  supposed  to  be  the  adherents  of  the  founder  of  the 
Chinese  monarchy.  Above  them,  under  the  gracefully  curved 
roof,  are  larger  carved  panels;  on  the  right  a  sacred  cow  repos- 
ing tranquilly  amidst  flowers;  on  the  left  another  Chinese  sage. 
Rabbits  chiseled  in  high  relief  form  the  salient  features  of  the 
upper  panels  on  the  inner  side  of  the  structure.  The  pvet^a^ 
ttA  ffMed panek  are  each  cut  from  one  piece  of  wood. 


270    BoiOe  14.  NIEE5  The  Handen. 

The  carved  tennin  in  the  panel  above  the  portico  is  attributed 
to  Hidari  Jingoro,  The  roof  is  topped  by  two  bronze  dragons 
and  a  shishi  held  down  by  metal  clamps.  Elaborately  chiseled 
metal  sockets  sheathe  the  beam-ends,  and  the  panels  are  ar- 
ranged with  a  correct  understanding  of  the  laws  which  gov- 
ern the  distribution  of  ornament.  The  gate  is  barbarically 
rich-loooking  when  seen  from  a  distance,  and  the  cream-white 
effect  of  the  pillars  enhances  its  charm.  The  general  decorations 
of  the  wings,  with  their  many  carved  panels  and  geometrical 
designs,  diner  but  little  from  those  of  the  Yomei-^mon,  On  the 
terraces  above  the  corridors,  at  the  right  and  left  of  the  court, 
are  maple  trees  which  are  a  glory  in  autumn.  A  short  covered 
way  leads  from  the  gate  to 

The  Honden,  or  Oratory,  the  outer  room  in  the  last  of  the 
shrines  at  the  top  of  the  series  of  terraces.  It  is  a  marvel  of 
wood,  metal,  and  paint  so  artistically  distributed  and  adjusted 
as  to  make  of  the  structure  the  most  gorgeous  and  attractive 
of  the  leyasu  group.  It  is  also  a  record  of  the  finest  achieve- 
ments of  those  long-<iead  masters  who  poured  out  their  very 
souls  in  this  physical  expression  of  Buddhist  art  interpreted  bv 
Japanese  genius  and  fancy;  happily,  not  in  vain,  for  the  travel- 
ing world  has  paid  its  homage  and  expressed  its  sentiment 
before  this  masterpiece  for  upward  of  half  a  century,  and  will 
no  doubt  continue  to  do  so  as  long  as  the  building  retains  its 
present  shape.  Natives  know  it  as  the  Toshogu  (which  by 
extension  is  often  applied  to  leyasu  himself).  As  is  so  often  the 
case  with  Japanese  temples,  this  one  is  so  hemmed  in  by  fences 
and  trees  that  its  wonderfully  decorated  exterior  and  its  fine 
physical  proportions  are  seen  at  a  genuine  disadvantage;  a 
narrow,  pebbly  strip  of  land  flanks  it  on  its  four  sides,  while  the 
mt.  with  its  crownmg  forest  rises  so  abruptly  at  the  rear  that 
it  gives  the  impression  of  being  ready  to  slide  down  upon  it  at 
any  moment.  To  get  the  right  perspective  on  the  rich  decora- 
tions just  beneath  the  eaves  one  must  scramble  up  the  hill 
at  the  back  or  view  the  side  from  the  steps  leading  to  the 
Shogun^s  Tomb  higher  on  the  hill.  Even  there  the  view  is  ob- 
structed. —  The  great  front  porch  is  upheld  by  square  cream- 
white  pillars  of  flawless  keyaki  set  in  elaborately  chased  metal 
sockets,  and  of  a  grain  so  fine  that  it  is  employed  as  a  subsidiary 
aid  in  the  intricate  carvings  of  its  surfaces.  The  pillar  at  the 
extreme  left  is  much  admired  and  is  called  the  'Licking-paw 
Tiger '  pillar  from  a  sculptured  medallion  in  which  a  tiger  is 
shown  in  the  act  of  licking  his  paw;  the  hair  and  the  stripes  of 
the  animal  are  formed  skillfully  of  the  fine  lines  of  the  wood. 
Other  carvings  are  of  bamboos,  pine  trees,  butterflies,  and 
animals  inclosed  in  small  medallions  which  stand  out  from  a 
background  of  tracery  so  delicate  that  it  resembles  true  ver- 
mieuTated  work.  The  immense  single-piece  tie-beams  of  the 
porch  simulate  flying  buttresses  and  aie  loxTci^d  of  writhing 


The  Honden,  NIKKO  U-  Rouie.    271 

dragons  sculptured  with  consummate  skill  and  supplemented 
by  dragon  heads  that  protrude  from  every  angle.  The  cross- 
beams are  cream-white,  richly  carved,  and  carry  superimposed 
Dogs  of  Fo. 

Black  with  gleaming  gold  decorations  and  brass  trimmings 
are  the  most  striking  notes  in  the  outward  aspect  of  the  build- 
ing; along  the  architrave  birds,  flowers,  and  much  geometrical 
tracery  form  the  motives.  Six  metal-sheathed  steps  lead  to  the 
landing  and  the  elaborately  ornamented  doors,  which  are  a 
maze  of  carved,  painted,  or  gilded  flowers  and  arabesques. 
The  front  and  sides  of  the  outer  room  have  many  slatted  win- 
dows which  are  held  up  by  long  metal  hooks.  We  penetrate 
first  to 

The  Honden,  a  rectangular  room  30  ft.  wide  by  48  ft.  long 
provided  with  a  smaller  chamber  at  each  end.  The  soft  rush 
mats  are  of  the  finest  quality  and  are  ed^ed  with  silk  brocade; 
the  beautiful  coffered  ceiling  (which  is  said  to  be  a  copy  of  that 
in  the  Ming  Palace  at  PeBng)  contains  a  hundred  or  more 
recessed  panels,  on  each  of  which  is  painted  a  wriggling  dragon 
in  an  attitude  differing  from  all  the  others,  each  executed  in 
Kano  Tanyu^s  best  manner.  The  comers  of  tjie  panels  — 
which  resemble  sunken  lunettes  —  are  covered  with  elabo- 
rately chased  metal  ornaments,  and  there  are  intermediated 
chmmels  of  gilded  lattice-work  over  a  warm  crimson  ground. 
The  effect  is  unusually  rich  and  is  in  close  imitation  of  a  har- 
monious red-and-gold  mosaic.  Discreetly  arranged  around  the 
cornice  of  this  room  are  36  painted  panels  (the  work  of  Tosa 
Mitsunohu),  each  with  a  seated  figure  of,  and  an  ideographic 
reference  to,  Japan's  most  celebrated  poets  before  the  11th 
cent.  Objects  of  minor  interest  are  the  dragon  drum  —  which 
shows  its  Chinese  origin  in  the  5  claws  of  the  dragon  painted 
on  it  —  and  the  gold-plated  gohei  presented  by  the  Emperor. 
The  big  circular  mirror  which  usually  hangs  above  the  gohei 
is  about  2  ft.  in  diameter  and  is  symbolic  of  Shinto  shrines;  the 
gilded  panels  around  the  room  are  by  Kano  Tanyu.  The 
ceremony  preceding  the  entry  into  the  Holy  of  Holies  is  per- 
formed in  this  room. 

Gilded  sliding  Jusuma^  adorned  with  exaggerated  Dogs  of 
Fo  and  attributed  to  Kano  TanyH,  admit  the  traveler  to  a 
small  room  at  the  right,  originally  the  private  oratory  of  the 
shogun.  It  is  13  ft.  long  by  30  wide  and  it  contains  four  hand- 
some large,  inlaid,  framed  panels  carved  in  several  wdods  in 
the  natural  color,  with  phoenixes  glued  and  nailed  on  to  the 
background;  the  finely  penciled,  gold-lacquered  frames  are 
worth  looking  at,  as  are  also  the  cross-beams,  which  are  dec- 
orated with  an  elaborate  diaper-pattern  resembling  precious 
silk  brocade.  The  brackets  are  black  and  gold;  the  miaoi 
adornments  are  similar  to  those  of  the  hondeUy  aud  tke  ^ocA 
used  in  the  ceiling  is  the  land  of  which  incense  iB  made.  — TYskfc 


272    Route  U.  NIKED  The  Stone  Room. 

room  at  the  left  is  still  more  elegant.  The  fusuma  carry  painted 
peonies  and  Dogs  of  Fo  on  a  dead  gold  ground  (the  .work  of 
Kano  Tanyu)y  and  instead  of  phoenixes  the  carved  wood 
panels  (each  47  by  66  in.  and  cut  from  a  single  slab  of  kwarirv' 
wood  —  Cydonia  sinensis  —  imported  from  China)  carry 
sharp-eyed  eagles  which  stand  against  a  background  of  deli- 
cate and  complicated  tracery.  The  metal  ornaments  of  the 
cross-beams  are  of  choicest  damascene  work  with  5  pieces 
superimposed,  and  all  very  rich-looking.  The  beams  them- 
selves are  entirely  covered  by  a  riotous  wealth  of  florid,  bro- 
cade-like decorations.  The  admirably  chiseled  Buddhist  angel 
on  the  ceiling  is  picked  out  polychromatically  in  a  strikingly 
naturalistic  way,  and  surrounded  by  scores  of  sculptured  and 
painted  chrysanthemums  and  recessed  lunettes  of  a  dark  wood. 
Beneath  the  gold  and  black  brackets  are  spirited  carvings  of 
birds  and  flowers  in  high  relief  —  the  former  seeming  just 
ready  to  fly  out  of  their  tinted  retreats.  Few  carvings  m  the 
temple  are  more  animated  and  attractive.  The  capitals  of  the 
pilasters  —  of  keyakif  lacquered  red,  then  covered  with  gold 
foil  —  are  unusually  sumptuous. 

At  the  back  of  the  honden  4  steps  descend  to  a  sunken  apart- 
ment 12  ft.  deep  by  30  wide,  called  the  Stone  Room  because 
the  lacquered  floor  is  said  to  rest  upon  a  single  large  stone.  The 
bonzes  usually  invite  the  traveler's  attention  to  the  carved, 
lacquered,  and  gilded  rococo  sheaths  which  almost  cover  the 
4  supporting  columns.  Though  elaborately  executed,  the 
assemblage  of  fantastic  scrolls  and  other  conventional  work  is 
feeble  and  meaningless,  and  impresses  the  beholder  by  its 
costliness  (¥80,000)  rather  than  as  an  expression  of  a  high 
order  in  art.  The  ceiling  is  lovely.  Each  of  the  28  large  and  17 
small  sunken  panels  bears  a  beautifully  painted  mythological 
phcenix  (the  work  of  Tanyu)  on  a  blue  ground  covered  with 
superb  tracery,  and  each  flying  bird  is  pictured  in  an  attitude 
different  from  its  fellows.  The  two  deeply  recessed  panels 
serve  as  trap-doors  to  the  loft.  Not  an  inch  of  the  walls  and 
ceiling  but  is  richly  and  extravagantly  decorated  with  a  host 
of  indescribable  forms.  Specially  noteworthy  are  the  gold- 
lacquered  panels  behind  the  sheltering  screened  doors  at  the 
right  and  left  of  the  descending  stairs,  and  in  the  same  relative 
positions  at  the  top  of  those  opposite.  Three  kinds  of  lacquer 
—  Chinese,  Korean,  and  Japanese  —  have  been  used  in  their 
composition,  and  they  are  admirable  expressions  of  coherent 
opulence.  At  the  landing  of  the  6  metal-sheathed  steps  stand 
2  solid  silver  vases  (presented  by  Tokugawa  lenari,  the  11th 
shogun)  weighing  each  150  lbs.  and  containing  sprigs  of  bam- 
boo of  a  gold  alloy;  plum  branches  of  virgin  silver;  and  pine 
twigs  of  shakvdd  —  an  alloy  of  copper,  antimony,  and  gold. 
The  finely  inlaid  lacquer  tables  fleeted  with  Tokugawa  crests 
are  worth  looMng  at.   Above  ttxe  ti\p\^  «.^X»  Q^  ^^%^  iaWing 


The  Holy  of  Holies.  NIEEO  1^  BotUe.    273 

doors  with  elaborate  Chinese  locks  are  carved  brackets  and 
friezes  enriched  with  chased  metal  fitments.  The  uprights  and 
cross-beams  are  finished  in  the  rich  brownish-gray  of  the 
natural  wood.  Above  the  doors  runs  a  line  of  complicated 
compound  brackets  with  8  huge  protruding  elephant  heads, 
open-mouthed  and  menacing.  At  the  right  and  left  of  the  room 
are  gorgeous  gold  panels  embellished  with  fiyine  phoenixes, 
and  twin  pierced  panels  said  to  be  made  of  single  slabs  ana 
which  sift  a  diffused  light.  The  bonze  who  usually  sits  at  the 
left  of  the  stairs  serves  sanctified  sake  from  small  antimony  or 
red-lacquered  dishes  for  a  trifling  fee. 

The  Holy  of  Holies  of  the  leyasu  Mausoleum,  the  Ultima  Thule  of  the 
shrines:  at  once  the  richest  and  most  coveted  sight  in  N.  Japan,  occupies  3 
rooms  (which  may  be  converted  into  one)  at  the  rear  of  the  last  building  on 
the  upper  fand  last)  terrace,  called  respectively  (1st)  Go  Heiden,  (2d)  Go 
Naijin,  and  (3d)  GoNaiNaijin.  Refined  imagery  and  an  exquisitely  tender 
and  delicate  fancy  characterise  the  wonderiul  decorations,  and  as  the  suite 
is  considered  the  most  sacred  of  the  Nikko  temples  and  shrines,  the  general 
public  is  barred  therefrom.  Entrance  is  obtained  only  by  a  special  appoint- 
ment (which  can  be  made  by  telephone  from  the  hotel)  and  a  fee  (payable 
at  the  door  of  the  honden)  of  =¥10  for  one  person,  or  ¥7  each  for  two  or  more. 
There  is  no  extra  charge  for  a  guide  or  an  interpreter,  nor  is  the  regular  en- 
trance fee  of  80  sen  exacted.  The  special  ceremony  ( Kitosai)  performed  by 
Shintd  priests  in  full  canonicals  —  attractive  robes,  gause  caps,  and  what- 
not —  within  the  honden  and  the  Stone  Room,  before  the  doors  of  the  inner 
shrine  can  be  opened,  usually  occupies  about  15  min.  Although  days,  and 
even  weeks,  might  be  devoted  to  an  appreciative  study  of  the  interior  deco- 
rations, from  i  to  1  hr.  is  the  time  generally  given  to  it  by  travelers.  Though 
usually  brought  up  in  the  shadow  of  the  holy  precinct,  the  bonzes  who 
oonduct  the  visitor  through  the  inner  mase  are  healthily  unconscious  of  the 
beauty,  the  sentiment,  and  even  of  the  names  attached  to  the  various  deco- 
rations, and  they  must  not  be  looked  to  for  accurate  information.  The  hon- 
est ones  generally  acknowledge  a  frank  ignorance  of  the  structure  and  all  its 
details;  the  others  profifer  data  which  are  misleading.  Shoes  (mens')  hats, 
wraps,  etc.,  must  be  left  outside.  The  aspirant  is  invested  with  a  ceremonial 
robe  (usually  green)  which  he  must  don  and  kneel,  as  do  the  bonses,  during 
the  impressive  ritual.  Whether  or  not  the  traveler  follows  the  native  custom 
of  bowing  the  head  until  it  touches  the  floor,  and  of  scrupulously  imitating 
every  genuflection  of  the  leader,  is  a  matter  of  personal  taste;  but  a  strict 
observance  of  the  custom  and  a  due  reverence  for  the  sanctity  of  the  spot  are 
not  only  tributes  deserved  by  the  honored  dead,  but  add  a  piquant  charm  to 
the  memory  of  the  act.  The  red-  and  gold-lacquered  cups  from  which  the 
holy  sake  is  drunk  are  sold  at  35  sen  (the  antimony  ones  cost  20  sen),  and 
they  make  pretty  souvenirs  of  a  unique  experience. 

The  first  part  of  the  ceremony  is  enacted  in  the  honden.   A  number  of 

eriests  clad  in  ancient  and  picturesque  costumes  file  into  the  room,  and, 
Deellng,  go  through  various  evolutions  of  a^religious  import,  while  3  of  their 
number  evoke  a  series  of  wailing  cries,  convulsive  notes,  and  'dissonant 
squeaks '  from  a  flute  and  two  native  reed-instruments  called  shd.  Another 
sits  by  and  beats  a  drum.  The  cadence  is  solemn,  as  befits  the  occasion,  and 
the  effect  is  weird  —  particularly  if  the  great  bell  in  the  SambiUsu-d6  com- 
pound sends  out  its  deep-tongued  challenge  to  the  auditors  during  the  cere- 
mony. Then  the  bonses  intone  the  mystic  ritual  and  strike  their  hands 
together  with  a  sharp,  dry  sound,  to  summon  the  holy  spirit  to  witness  the 
ceremony.  The  offerings  to  the  shades  of  the  gods  —  comprising  various 
specially  prepared  vegetables,  and  rice  cakes  with  the  Tokttgaipa  crest 
stamped  upon  them  —  are  now  brought  forward  and  are  carried  into  the 
oo  heiden  by  white-clad  acolytes  with  shields  tied  across  their  mouths  to 
prevent  the  breath  from  defiling  them.  Gohei  and  other  paraphernalia  are 
also  introduced.  [A  2d  ceremony  of  bringing  these  out  is  oonduotodttlVft'i  V^a 
vkkor  departs.]  After  receiving  a  lighted  paper  lantern  beannft  ^»ktt  To\»k- 


fr 


274    Route  U,  NIEEO  The  Go  HMen. 

gawa  crest,  the  visitor  follows  the  priests  into  the  outer  room  where  the  adb* 
and  food-c^erings  are  spread  out  on  a  long  table.  Partaking  of  these,  Mid  thuB 
being  duly  sanctified  by  the  holy  rites,  the  inspection  of  tibe  shrine  is  begun. 

The  Go  Heiden,  so  called  from  the  gold  gohei  therein,  is 
about  12  ft.  deep  by  42  wide.  Because  of  the  wan  light  which 
filters  through  the  latticed  windows,  it  is  less  dim  than  the 
other  two  rooms,  where  inky  darkness  usually  prevMls.  One 
must  strain  the  eyes  to  inspect  properly  the  opulently  rich, 
time-defying  decorations  which  adorn  every  inch  of  surface  of 
the  superb  walls  and  ceiling.  The  latter  is  coffered,  and  each 
sunken  panel  carries  an  artistically  painted  and  illuminated 
phoenix  a  shade  richer  than  those  on  the  ceiling  of  the  Jumden. 
The  panels  (7  by  7  in.)  of  the  sUding  doors  which  separate  this 
apartment  from  the  inner  inclosure  are  of  brass,  plated  with 
gold  and  perforated  in  the  center  with  a  fylfot  several  inches 
square,  and  the  tempered  light  which  shines  through  them 
produces  a  pleasing  effect.  The  large,  hand-painted  silk  screen 
at  the  left  end  of  the  room  shows  an  ancient  horse-race,  on  one 
side,  and,  on  the  reverse,  two  gamboling  Dogs  of  Fo,  by  some 
unknown  artist  of  the  Kano  school.  At  the  extreme  right  and 
left  of  the  dividing  wall  are  two  large  gold-foil  panels  of  keyaki, 
with  polychromatic  howo  in  striking  attitudes.  The  chiys- 
anthemum  crests  at  the  four  corners  of  the  frames  formed  by 
extensions  of  the  mural  decorations,  have  12  instead  of  16 
petals.  The  4  upright  pillars  which  support  the  superbly  and 
daintily  decorated  cross-beams,  and  which  carry  alternate 
carvings  in  relievo  of  chrysanthemums  and  peonies,  rank  among 
the  best  of  this  class  in  Japan;  the  oak-like  wooa  is  the  time- 
defying  keyaki.  The  long  line  of  split  bamboo  sudare  which 
stretch  quite  across  the  room  and  form  the  removable  parti- 
tion between  it  and  the  interior,  are  heavy  with  elegant  metal 
adornments  and  are  of  the  finest  quality,  as  is  also  the  cream- 
white  taiami  of  the  floor,  with  the  edges  of  the  omote  neatly 
bordered  with  silk  brocade.  An  uproUed  sudare  at  the  right 
gives  access  to 

The  Go  Naijin  (or  Naijin)  whose  beautiful  coffered  ceiling 
at  once  attracts  attention  by  being  different  from  that  of  any 
of  the  other  temples.  Each  recessed  panel  is  covered  with 
gleaming  gold  foil,  and  over  this  is  artistically  arranged  a  deli- 
cately and  beautifully  pierced  wood  panel  which  resembles 
heavy  lace,  through  the  interstices  of  which  the  eye  picks  out 
the  gold  as  it  reflects  the  lantern's  rays.  The  curved  panels  at 
either  side  carry  skillfully  painted  chrysanthemums  and  p)eonies 
in  their  natural  colors.  Along  the  architrave  are  some  strik- 
ingly sculptured  and  tinted  birds  in  high  relief,  poised  as  if  for 
instant  flight.  Between  another  series  of  superbly  carved 
keyaki  pillars  in  the  natural  wood  is  a  set  of  folding  doors  with 
BcuJptured  and  gilded  panels  enriched  with  such  exquisite 
jsuperimpoaed  damascene-work  tihal  one  maiN^Vs*  «^t  the  akiU 


Tke  Go  Naijin.  NIKKO  I4.  Route.    275 

of  these  eaxly  craftsmen  and  speculates  as  to  how  thejr  learned 
the  subtle  manipulation  of  a  metallic  art  which  originated  so 
far  from  their  country.  Every  bit  of  the  wood  about  the  doors 
Ss  so  heavily  lacqueim  as  to  make  it  resemble  massive  gold, 
and  the  effect  attained  is  superlatively  rich.  —  At  the  left  end 
of  the  room,  let  into  the  front  wall,  is  a  gold-foil  panel  about 
8  ft.  sq.  covered  with  a  bizarre  painting  of  Bishamonten^ 
looking  very  much  like  the  prototype  of  Blue  Beard,  in  his 
wonderful  painted  draperies.  Near  by,  on  the  base-board  of 
the  side  wall,  are  two  long  gold  panels  carrying  pictured 
Buddhas  in  whose  placid  faces  eternal  repose  is  expressed. 
Though  singularly  effective  they  are.  surpassed  by  others  in 
the  adjoining  room.  Rich  creamy  silk  habutaye  protects  all  the 
ranels  from  the  rude  contact  of  any  one  moving  about  in  the 
dim  light.  Farther  along,  on  the  side  wall,  is  one  of  the  finest 
paintings  (artist  unknown)  in  the  building.  A  beautiful  gold 
figure  of  Amidaf  the  source  of  boundless  Tight,  is  shown  sur- 
rounded bjr  wonderfully  effective  clouds  through  which  float 
celestial  beings  with  musical  instruments  in  their  hands.  As 
the  Supreme  Buddha  of  the  Paradise  of  the  Pure  Earth  of  the 
West,  Amitdbha  sits  in  the  high  heavens  and  from  that  exalted 
place  sends  from  his  all-seeing  eye  a  glorious  beam  of  light 
downward  to  illuminate  the  earth.  It  will  be  noted  that  of  the 
12  hosatsu  (or  perfected  saints  —  usually  pictured  as  men), 
11  are  women.  One,  a  ravishing  being,  strikes  her  birva  with  an 
ivory  plectrum;  another  plays  upon  a  harp;  while  others  still, 
in  diaphanous  draperies,  hover  about  the  central  figure  and 
produce  a  bewilderingly  beautiful  effect.  Another  big  mural 
painting  at  the  end  of  the  passage  contains  15  strikingly 
executed  figures,  while  in  a  companion  picture  at  the  end  of 
the  opposite  aisle  are  grouped  the  Chinese,  Japanese,  and 
Korean  demons  that  safeguard  all  the  temples  in  the  land. 
The  groundwork  of  this  picture  is  especially  noteworthy,  as  it 
shows  a  complex  arrangement  of  intermingling  squares  into 
which  the  habiliments  of  the  figures  blend  so  ingeniously  and 
harmoniously  as  to  form  a  sort  of  shadow  design,  which  the 
eye  does  not  register  at  first.  The  large  panel  at  the  right  sug- . 
gests  demonology  gone  to  seed,  as  some  of  the  black  devils  on 
a  flaming  ground  have  several  heads,  arms,  and  legs,  and  such 
a  multiplicity  of  members  that  one  grows  tired  of  counting 
them 

Certain  of  the  most  precious  relics  of  this  almost  priceless 
rehquary  are  usually  kept  in  this  aisle;  to  see  them  a  special 
letter  from  the  Imperial  Household  Department  at  Tokyo,  to 
the  abbot  in  charge  of  the  mausoleum,  is  necessary.  One  of 
them,  sometimes  shown  to  visitors,  is  an  exquisite  sword  pre- 
sented by  the  Emp)eror  to  lemitsu.  The  rich  Indian  red-lacquer 
box  in  which  it  is  kept  is  beautifully  inlaid  with  Tok^^pu9a 
'  crate  and  wave-patterns  in  iridescent  madreperl,  "mtYi  TVi^l} 


276    Route  U-  NIEKO  The  Oo  Nai  Naiiji^. 

• 

chased  gold  clasps  at  the  edges,  bound  by  massive  silk  cords 
and  wrapped  in  choice  old  brocade  from  an  Imperial  loom. 
Swinging  from  the  hilt  of  the  sword  are  several  gold  rings 
inlaid  with  multi-colored  enamels,  and  a  solid  gold  fish,  3  in. 
wide,  7  in.  long,  and  Jin.  thick,  so  perfectly  wrought  that 
almost  every  scale  is  distinct.  Inlaid  on  the  gold  lacquer  of 
the  scabbard  are  mother-of-pearl  howOf  the  peacock  blues  of 
whose  tail-feathers  gleam  with  opalescent  sheen  in  the  lan- 
tern's light.  —  Passing  round  to  the  right  aisle  we  there  in- 
spect the  huge  wall-panel  depicting  Fiidd  with  his  mace  and 
aureole  of  flame;  at  the  extreme  end  is  a  companion  picture, 
with  slight  variations,  to  the  one  at  the  end  of  the  opposite 
aisle.  At  the  right  is  a  charming  complementary  piece  to  the 
Buddhist  Heaven,  also  with  slight  variations.  The  other 
panels  here  are  similar  in  their  religious  import  to  those  of  the 
other  passageway.  The  capitals  of  the  supporting  pillars  and 
the  diapered  cross-beams  of  the  room  are  marvels  of  decorative 
art.  We  now  bend  low  and  reverently  pass  beneath  an  uprolled 
sudare  into  the  sacrosanct  Go  Nai  Naijin,  politically  one  of 
the  most  revered  spots  in  Japan,  and  to  the  artist  one  of  the 
most  enchanting  and  at  the  same  time  the  most  disheartening  * 
for  in  this  restricted  space  (about  20  by  20  ft.)  is  concentrated 
the  highest  achievements  of  Japanese  Buddhist  art  of  the  17th 
cent.  The  eagerness  of  the  art-lover  to  understand  and  assim- 
ilate it  all,  and  to  grasp  and  hold  its  subtly  fugitive  sentiment, 
becomes  almost  painful.  For  the  wish  brings  with  it  the  over- 
whelming conviction  of  its  own  futility,  since  the  long-dead 
artists  left  no  clue  as  to  how,  or  why,  they  accomplishea  these 
marvels  of  gold-lacquer,  diaper-work,  intricate  arabesques, 
masterful  paintings,  damascening,  and  the  myriad  minor 
subtleties  which  add  so  much  charm  and  grace  to  the  whole. 
Generation  after  generation  have  looked  upon  them  again  and 
again  and  have  gone  away  to  be  haunted  by  them.  It  is  doubt- 
ful if  Aladdin's  magic  lamp  could  disclose  more  bewildering 
beauties  than  does  the  modest  paper  lantern  which  the 
traveler  brings  into  this  darkened  retreat.   Occupying  most 

.  of  the  space  in  the  room  is  a  gorgeous  gold-lacquered  shrine 
(10  ft.  high,  25  across  the  front,  and  8  on  the  side)  of  a  form 
called  Takamikura  —  similar  to  the  throne  constructed  for  the 
Emperor  for  the  coronation  ceremony.  Two  fierce  gold- 
lacquered  and  painted  Dogs  of  Fo  guard  it.  It  was  made  out- 
side, brought  hither  and  assembled,  and  it  is  of  such  exquisite 
workmanship  that  few  others  in  this  land  of  art  surpass  it. 
Within  its  ultra-sacred  depths  are  sculptured  wood  iniages  of 
leyasUf  Hideyoshi.  and  YorUomo,  barred  from  public  view  by  a 
quaint  metal  lock  made  by  a  celebrated  swordsmith,  and 
c^ed  funajo  from  its  resemblance  to  a  boat.  To  the  casual  eye 
the  structure  is  almost  a  counterpart  in  shape  of  the  finer 

maueolea,  but  the  art-work  ia  much  deinU^c  ^  mote  refined  and 


The  Go  Nat  Naijin.  NIKKO  H.  Route.    277 

mare  beautiful,  a  little  masterpiece  admirably  wrought.  The 
comer  posts  are  of  selected  keyaki^  of  wonderful  grain  and 
natural  color,  sculptured  like  those  m  the  outer  room  except- 
ing that  these  carry  rich  overlays  and  carved  insets  of  various 
colored  woods  held  in  position  by  the  extreme  nicety  of  their 
construction.  The  slim  upright  panels  between  them  and  the 
doors  are  adorned  with  ascending  and  descending  dragons 
whose  flaming  scales  and  graceful  sinuosities  expressed  in  fault- 
less gold-lacquer,  are  raised  several  millimeters  above  the  gold 
background.  The  doors  are  finished  like  jewels  in  a  rich  and 
costly  setting.  At  the  intersections  of  the  finely  lacquered 
bars  are  damascened  rosettes  superimposed  sometimes  with  as 
many  as  five  layers  of  metal,  one  above  the  other,  but  wrought 
with  such  art  and  disposed  with  such  grace  that  they  resemble 
lace  drapery  rather  than  metal.  Around  the  base  of  the  col- 
umns, in  rich  gold  on  a  sloe-black  ground,  is  a  continuous  key- 
pattern  string  course  —  very  simple  and  elegant.  The  doors 
swing  on  pivots  let  into  'swelling  sockets  sheathed  with 
embossed  metal  overlaid  with  delicate  tracery.  Above  the 
narrow  architrave,  in  niches  formed  by  the  elaborately  painted 
compound  brackets,  beneath  the  massive  but  gracef uUy  curved 
roof,  are  sculptured  polychrome  hawks  in  high  relief.  Protrud- 
injg  from  the  salient  angles,  as  if  ready  to  fulminate  intruders 
with  their  basilisk  eyes,  are  open-mouthed  Dogs  of  Fo,  mina- 
tory dragons,  and  other  beasts.  The  multiplicity  of  miniature 
roof-beams  which  radiate  outward  are  sheathed  in  metal  and 
covered  with  decorations,  while  between  and  around  them  run 
endless  traceries  that  lead  from  and  to  hidden  sources  which 
the  eye  cannot  detect.  On  narrow  panels  carved  in  the  natural 
wood  are  sculptured  disks  tacked  on  with  gold-headed  nails  — 
perhaps  the  only  ones  used  in  the  construction.  The  double 
side  doors  are  as  elaborate  as  the  central  ones,  with  panels 
displaying  arabesques,  bamboos,  and  such  an  infinity  of  gold- 
lacquer  enrichment  that  a  detailed  description  of  it  would  only 
weary  the  reader. 

The  coffered  ceiling  of  the  room  is  of  unexampled  splendor. 
Below  it  runs  a  maze  of  compound  brackets  painted  a  brilliant 
black  and  penciled  with  fine  gold  lines.  The  series  of  round 
nickel  mirrors  which  adorn  the  architrave,  the  gold  gohei  and 
the  gilded  branches  (in  vases)  of  the  sacrea  sakaki  (presented 
by  the  late  Mikado),  remind  one  that  the  shrine  is  Shinto 
despite  its  Buddhistic  opulence.  The  entire  left  panel  is 
covered  with  an  exquisite  painting  of  a  seated  Buddha  sur- 
rounded by  his  disciples,  crests,  ecclesiastical  symbols,  etc., 
extraordinarily  rich  in  color-tones  and  with  an  intricate  lattice- 
work of  lustrous  gold  covering  the  background.  Against  the 
opposite  wall  is  a  beguiling  companion  painting  showing  Shaka 
and  his  disciples.  While  examining  the  marvelous  coloiiu^  ol 
this  axitiquegem  note  the  depth  of  the  rich  cobsAl,  aiixi!^\vxii 


280    Route  U.  NIEEO  lemitm  Mausoleum, 

The  sign  on  the  bronze  torii  at  the  top  of  the  steps  is  a  fac- 
simile of  the  original  one  inscribed  b^  the  Emperor  Gomino^ 
(1612-29).  At  the  right  of  the  steps  is  the  first  (so  it  is  said) 
wholly  copper  godown  ever  built  in  Japan.  The  Mortuary 
Shrine,  which  faces  the  tomb  on  the  terrace  above,  is  also 
copper-sheathed.  The  small  interior  is  decorated  sumptuously 
and  has  a  tessellated  ceiling  with  16  rows  of  9  panels  each  and 
56  two-inch  squares,  each  with  a  tiny  chrysanthemum  crest 
painted  in  5  colors.  The  whole  surface  carries  8064  of  these 
polychromatic  flowers,  every  one  of  which  has  a  line  of  gold 
foil  around  it.  The  diaper-work  of  the  architrave  is  intricate, 
the  panels  above  it  being  covered  with  gold  leaf  and  phoenixes 
painted  in  pleasing  tones.  —  Passing  to  the  rear  we  come  to 
the  massive  copper  gate  of  the  august  tomb,  here  guarded  by 
Korean  Uons  oi  fiercely  aggressive  mien.  Tokugawa  crests  in 
gold,  cranes,  peonies,  and  the  mystical  Wheel  of  the  Law  are 
chiseled  artistically  against  the  rich  brown  metal,  which  is 
cast  in  a  solid  piece  and  is  darker  than  the  tomb  proper.  The 
phoenixes  sculptured  on  the  inner  wings  are  worth  looking  at. 
The  pagoda-shaped  tomb  (of  a  light  brown  color  said  to  have 
been  obtained  by  an  admixture  of  bronze  and  gold)  occupies  a 
sequestered  site  overlooking  the  mausoleum,  and  is  8  ft.  high 
and  4  ft.  in  diameter.  It  replaces  an  original  one  of  granite 
(destroyed  by  an  earthquake)  which  was  so  massive  that  the 
united  strength  of  6000  coolies  was  needed  to  drag  it  to  its 
position.  Giant  trees  rise  solemnly  behind  the  inclosure,  to 
which  the  mournful  tones  of  the  great  SambiUsu-do  bell  float 
up  in  unadulterated  sweetness.  A  simple  stone  balustrade 
surrounds  the  funerary  plot,  which  is  backed  by  a  cyclopean 
stone  wall.  Facing  the  tomb  are  the  customary  (brass)  reli- 
gious symbols  —  an  incense-burner,  a  candelabrum  in  the 
form  of  a  tall  stork,  twin  vases  with  lotus-flowers,  and  the 
protecting  lions.  The  shogun  who  lies  buried  here  is  often 
referred  to  as  Gongen  Sama,  from  Tdshd-dai-goTigerif  his 
posthumous  title.  [Gongen  is  a  name  given  in  Ryobu-Shintd  to 
certain  of  the  Shinto  gods,  who,  according  to  the  Buddhists, 
were  the  temporary  manifestations  of  Buddha.] 

The  lemitsu  Mausoleum  and  its  auxiliary  shrines  stand  on 
terraces  cut  from  the  hillside  at  the  end  of  a  noble  avenue 
(28  ft.  wide  and  i  M.  long)  of  towering  cryptomerias  leading 
away  to  the  left  of  the  stone  torii  which  faces  the  leyasu  group. 
The  immensely  tall  trees  arch  gracefully  above  and  mingle 
their  branches  over  the  avenue  (5  min.  walk)  in  such  a  way  as 
to  make  of  it  a  green  and  fragrant  tunnel  on  the  pebble-strewn 
floor  of  which  the  filtered  suiu)eams  sleep  quietly.  The  temples 
and  their  respective  tombs  are  charmingly  situated  in  the 
heart  of  dense  groves,  musical  with  the  sound  of  rushing  water, 
but  otherwise  more  peaceful  and  sequestered  than  those  of 
lemiisu'a  august  grandfatlier.  T\i<e  \o<iaXv\.^  Sa  Vi^utiful  with 


Tomb  of  leyasiL  NIEKO  U.  Bouie.    279 

^ded  panels  of  Korean  lions  which  originally  were  painted  by 
Kand  TanyUy  but  which,  during  repeated  re-decorations,  have 
lost  their  original  Unes  and  therewith  their  artistic  interest. 
The  carved  and  gilded  doors  are  worth  looking  at,  as  well  as 
the  steps  at  the  rear,  which  are  sheathed  in  polSihed  brass  and 
embossed  with  crests.  The  maze  of  decorations  of  the  porch 
here  extends  to  the  smallest  interstices  of  the  roof-beams.  JBYom 
this  point  one  gets  a  near  view  of  the  encircling  fence  (522  ft. 
long  and  6  ft.  high  exclusive  of  the  stone  wall),  with  its  painted 
panels  and  metal-sheathed  coping  tipped  with  gold  foil  and 
edged  with  Tokugawa  crests.  The  tall  tree  in  the  yard  at  the 
left  is  supposed  to  act  as  a  lightning  conductor:  those  within 
the  fenced  inclosure  are  (at  the  left)  a  hinokij  and  (at  the  right) 
a  kdyormahij  or  umbrella  pine,  and  were  planted  by  the  reigning 
Emperor. 

The  Tomb  of  leyasu  stands  on  a  small  terrace  high  up  on  the 
hillside  behind  the  main  shrine.  Turn  to  the  right  after  passing 
beneath  the  Yomeiymon,  proceed  between  the  Kdgurarden  and 
the  Goma-do  and  cross  the  richly  decorated,  red-lacquered 
corridor  (which  is  11  ft.  wide  and  forms  a  quadrangle  720  ft. 
long)  to  the  gateway  beyond.  Above  the  entrance  to  this  is 
the  locally  celebrated  Sleeping  Cat  {Nemuri  no  NM)^  a 
sculptured  grimalkin  interesting  only  because  it  is  attributed 
to  Sidari  Jingoro.  From  this  gate  5  steps  lead  to  another  one 
called  Sakashitorinonf  carved  and  attractively  decorated  in 
white-and-gold.  Beyond  this  is  a  succession  of  easy  steps  (200 
in  all)  and  landings  —  25  steps  to  the  Ist;  10  to  the  2d  (which 
is  201  ft.  long) ;  38  to  the  3d;  58  to  the  4th;  52  to  the  5th;  and 
12  to  the  6th.  From  the  long  stone  terrace  splendid  views  of 
the  fine  forest  trees  are  available;  some  of  them  are  seen  to 
have  their  lofty,  wide-spreading  arms  covered  on  the  upper 
side  with  a  dainty  drapery  of  graceful  ferns  and  flowers,  which, 
apparently  too  delicate  to  sustain  the  fierce  struggle  for  exist- 
ence amidst  the  ranker  and  more  vigorous  plants  on  the  ground 
below,  are  upheld  by  the  stately  trees  and  thus  form  a  sort  of 
Babylonian  hanging-garden,  hundreds  of  feet  above  the  sodden 
ground  and  nearer  to  the  vivifying  sunshine.  Nourished  by 
the  constant  moisture,  magnificent  rhododendrons  grow  on  the 
hill-slopes,  and  behind  these  are  other  colonnades  of  great 
cryptomerias  between  whose  trunks  one  gets  enchanting  views 
of  the  bronze  and  gold  roofs  of  the  temples  below  —  the  gilded 
crests  of  the  ridge-poles  of  which  wink  sleepily  in  the  face  of 
the  searching  sunbeams.  From  here  one  gets  also  a  compre- 
hensive view  of  the  fine  gabled  end  of  the  main  shrine.  The 
stone  walls  along  the  stairs  are  green  with  moss  and  hepaticcBf 
and  the  soft,  mellow  radiance  which  filters  through  the  lofty 
trees  is  lovely.  Save  for  the  whimpering  of  a  mt.  stream  rushing 
downward  to  the  sea,  a  tranquil  silence  reigns  m  tlae  tYflX^lcst- 
ert,  snd  the  piny  odor  of  balsam  boughs  soothes  t\ie  wsoaea. 


282   Bmth  14.  NIKEO  MMwdfi. 

'nieFttUt9aFdA  ('Two  halls'),  low,  beautifully  refMaoqoerod 
connecting  structures  known  also  as  Forttomo^,  because  one 
of  thk  celebrity's  bones  is  said  to  be  enshrined  here.  Observe 
the  droll  demonlets  in  whimsical  attitudes  astride  the  posts 
just  beneath  the  eaves  at  the  comers.  The  lovely  green- 
bronze  dragon-f ountun  which  stands  on  an  irregular  stone 
base  in  the  recessed  court  or  bay  was  (along  with  the  stone 
lantern)  presented  to  Prince  KUashirakawa'a  tomb  (farther  up 
the  hill)  by  the  munipipality  of  Utanmamiya.  The  poeitioa  oi 
the  twin  temples,  at  the  base  of  the  perpendicular  green  hills 
surmounted  by  giant  trees,  is  singularly  attractive.  Shoes, 
which  are  left  at  the  door  of  the  first  Duildmg,  are  usually  taken 
by  the  servant  to  the  exit  of  the  adjoining  one,  as  travelers 
generally  inspect  the  two  by  passing  along  the  corridor  from 
the  first  to  the  second.  The  ifnmenfle  overhanging  eaves,-  the 
finelv  proportioned  portico  with  its  massive  uprights  and  its 
black  metal  ornaments,  and  the  general  decorative  scheme  of 
the  structures,  leave  a  pleasing  impression.  The  first  temple  is 
dedicated  to  Amtda,  whose  richly  gilded  statue  is  seen  within, 
accompanied  by  many  others  of  the  Buddhist  pantheon.  Con^ 
sincuous  among  these  is  BiahamorUen,  Jikaku-DaiskL  Daikoku^ 
12  polychromatic  fip^ures  representing  the  signs  of  the  sodiao, 
and  many  big  and  htde  divmities  and  devils,  some  enshrined, 
others  with  mandorlas,  and  still  others  as  the  central  figures  of 
small  altars.  The  interior  is  oyer-decoratcd  in  vivid  colors, 
and  the  roof  is  supported  by  immense  red  keyaki  columns. 
Enshrined  in  the  adjoining  building  is  Fugen  bosatsu  (on  an 
elephant)  with  11  8tatuesc[ue  female  attendants  clad  in  gor- 
geous draperies  painted  to  unitate  flowered  brocades,  and  each 
with  a  halo  befitting  her  virtue.  Two  ^ded  tigers  guard  this 
chaste  and  somewhat  tasteless  group.  The  tomos  on  the  hill- 
side may  be  reached  by  passing  beneath  the  arch  in  the  passage- 
way connecting  the  two  buildings. 

The  NiO-MON  of  the  lemitsu  Temple  is  a  colossal  structure 
(re-polished  in  1910)  of  brilliant  Indi£ai-red  lacquer,  24  ft.  wide, 
simuar  in  design  to  that  of  the  leyasu  shrine,  but  a  shade  richer 
and  more  imposing.  The  huge,  muscular  Nid  in  the  covered  log- 
gias at  the  sides  are  attributed  to  the  tireless  Unkei,  Big  shi- 
s^i-heads  project  from  the  salient  angles,  and  the  bright  hiun- 
mered-braas  ornaments  add  to  the  dazzling  effect.  The  great 
doors,  swimg  on  pivots  let  into  soffits  above  and  below,  are 
porgeously  decorated  in  red,  black,  and  gold,  and  are  grandiose 
m  effect.  Just  within  the  gate,  at  the  right,  is  a  splendid  old 
dberry  tree  so  beautiful  in  the  spring  that  to  appreciate  it  one 
must  see  it;  the  tree  at  the  left  is  a  BddaijUy  a  species  of 
banyan^the  wood  of  which  is  used  by  the  priests  for  rosary 
beads.  The  storehouse  at,  the  l^t  of  this  once  held  the  treasures 
oi  Hbe  temple,  but  these  are.  now  kept  in  the  museum  near  the 
StwUndaurdd.  Farther  along,  at  ibe  ni^\>,  Sa  Ob  Widsome  giran- 


The  Gates.  NIKKO  I4.  Route.    283 

ite  water-basin  (8  ft.  3  in.  long,  4  ft.  wide,  and  3  ft.  5  in.  hi^), 
similar  in  design  to  that  on  the  1st  terrace  of  the  leyasu  shrme; 
the  faded  dra^n  on  the  ceiling  above  it  is  b^  Kand  Yasunobu, 
The  canopy  is  decorated  elaborately  and  is  supported  by  12 
granite  uprights.  Note  the  elevated  stone  aqueduct  which 
leads  back  to  the  bronze  dragon  from  whose  mouth  streams 
the  water  which  supplies  the  tank.  Instead  of  proceeding 
along  the  central  framed  path,  which  leads  to  the  Ryuko-in, 
where  the  priests  reside,  we  ascend  the  steps  at  the  left  to 

The  NrrEN-MON,  a  strikingly  rich  and  harmonious  gateway 
of  lustrous  red  lacquer,  blazing  with  gilded  crests,  metal-work, 
leaping  Dogs  of  Fo,  carved  and  tinted  mythological  animals, 
and  highly  decorated  compoimd  brackets.  The  fierce  figure  in 
the  cage  at  the  left  is  Kdmoku,  and  that  at  the  ri^t  Jikoku^ 
both  beneficent  devils  (2  of  the  Gods  of  the  Four  Directions) 
who  belie  their  scowling  aspect  and  keep  friendly  guard  over 
the  temples  above.  In  the  cages  behind  are  equally  repulsive 
fieures  of  the  red-haired  Thunder  God  (p.  ccvii),  with  his  string 
ofthundering  drums  above  his  head,  and  the  Wind  God,  who  is 
painted  green,  and  who  carries  his  hurricanes  in  a  big,  sausage- 
uke  bag  swung  over  his  shoulders;  both  of  these  figures  formerly 
stood  in  similar  positions  at  the  Yomei-mion,  Li  addition  to 
the  Tohugawa  crests,  many  Rimbo  crests  adorn  the  gate — 
decoratively  and  architecturally  one  of  the  finest  in  Nikko. 
TTie  36  stone  steps  which  lead  hence  to  a  wide  landing  (pretty 
views)  are  succeeded  by  37  more,  reaching  to  a  terrace  where 
there  are  many  bronze  lanterns  and  an  ornate  bell-  and  drum- 
tower.  Nineteen  steps  conduct  one  hence  to  the 

Yasha-mon,  or  Demon  Gate  (25  ft.  wide  and  15  ft.  deep), 
guarded  by  four  offensive  ruJBfians,  with  saber-like  canine 
teeth,  who  scowl  from  their  respective  loggias.  The  structure 
differs  from  others  in  Nikko  in  that  the  supporting  columns, 
of  red  lacquer  and  geometrical  designs,  are  clustered  and 
fluted.  The  customary  baku  heads  and  Dogs  of  Fo  are  the 
salient  features.  The  panels  in  the  sides  of  the  loggias  are 
sculptured  with  excellent  foliated  peonies.  The  long  corridors 
that  stretch  to  the  right  and  left  are  funereal;  the  handsome 
lanterns  were  gifts  of  various  daimyos. 

The  Kara-mon,  or  Chinese  Gate,  stands  at  the  top  of  a 
flight  of  10  steps  and  is  flanked  by  long  wings,  or  corridors 
roofed  with  copper-bronze,  edged  with  gilded  crests,  and  deco- 
rated in  white  and  black  with  a  profusion  of  polished  brass 
enrichments  disposed  at  intervals.  Painted  birds  sculptured 
in  a  spirited  manner  form  the  themes  of  the  long  panels.  From 
the  gate  (where  shoes  must  be  left)  a  narrow  corridor  extends 
to  the  main  door,  which  is  enveloped  in  a  blaze  of  gold  accentu- 
ated by  a  maze  of  crests,  ornaments,  wood-carvingp,  and  fiyax^- 
ing  metal  lanterns. 


284    RotUe  U.  NIEKO  The  Honden. 

The  Honden  (52  ft.  long  by  21  ft.  deep)  occupies  a  terrace 
slightly  above  the  gate  and  faces  N.E.  from  a  strikingly  pic- 
turesque location.  Cyclopean  moss-covered  walls  inclose  it  on 
3  sides,  while  behind  it  rise  tier  after  tier  of  majestically  solenm 
cryptomerias  and  pine  trees.    The  grassy  slopes  flame  with 
azaleas,  rhododendrons,  and  other  flowers,  and  maples,  in 
season.   The  gold  enrichments  of  the  handsome  roofs  gleam 
enticingly  from  their  green  environment.  —  The  indescribably 
rich  and  dazzling  Interior  conveys  the  impression  of  a  room 
encased  in  solid  burnished  gold.   The  superb  coffered  ceiling 
carries  140  large  recessed  panels,  each  with  a  gold  dragon 
wriggling  over  a  fine  blue  ground  with  delicate-colored  tracery 
at  the  comers.  Soft  rush  mats  cover  the  black-lacquered  floor. 
The  most  conspicuous  object  is  the  abbot's  seat,  surrounded  by 
smnptuous  gold-lacquereid  furniture  used  by  Buddhists,  and 
placed  beneath  a  luminous  and  gorgeous  metal  baldachin.  The 
traveler  will  note  that  the  priests  here  wear  Buddhist  cere- 
monial robes  {koromo)  in  contradistinction  to  those  of  the 
Shinto  cult  at  the  leyasu  shrine.   These  sacerdotal  garments 
(made,  it  is  said,  of  mokuTarty  or  magnolia  fiber)  are  often  of  a 
beautiful  shade  of  brown,  and  are  sometimes  so  nearly  the  color 
of  the  oval,  finely  patrician  faces,  and  the  shaven  and  polished 
polls  of  the  wearers,  that  the  ensemble  produces  a  striking 
symphony  in  creamy  old  ivory.  —  The  6  large  gold  panels  let 
into  the  walls  of  the  room,  exhibiting  exaggerated  Dogs  of  Fo, 
are  ascribed  to  Kano  Tanyu  and  Kano  Morinobu.  The  quaint 
bronze  lanterns  (perhaps  Korean)  with  a  semi-transparent 
substance  in  the  doors  which  resembles  laminated  horn,  but 
which  the  bonzes  say  is  tortoise-shell,  are  worth  looking  at. 
The  tall  bronze  vases  (gifts  from  the  feudal  lord  of    Kii 
Province),  with  gilt  sprigs  of  willow  and  cherry  rising  from 
them,  are  curious,  in  that  the  polished  lacquer  planes  which 
rise  flush  with  the  lips  are  so  brilliant  that  their  surfaces  reflect 
the  twigs  and  impart  the  impression  that  they  are  growing  in 
water.  The  bronze  storks  were  gifts  from  the  lord  of  Owari, 
and  the  two  bronze  vases  with  metal  lotus  sprays  from  the 
lord  of  Mito.  —  The  cross-beams  carry  pleasing  decorations  of 
conventional,  multi-colored  butterflies,  and  the  panels  of  the 
architrave  ^ow    phoenixes  sculptured  with  fine  skill.    The 
upper  series  of  panels,  also  with  carved  phoenixes  and  other 
bu*ds,  are  very  effective.  Many  rich  hangings  adorn  the  room, 
which  is  a  maze  of  beautiful  diaper-work,  crests,  and  intricate 
tracery.  The  narrow  passage  which  connects  it  with  the  Holy 
of  Holies  at  the  back  is  adorned  like  the  outer  room,  besides 
containing  a  number  of  handsome  sutra-hoxes  and  a  fine 
coffered  ceiling  with   phoenixes  on  the  sunken  panels.    The 
three  strikingly  attractive  bronze  incense-burners,  in  the  form 

of  subjected  demons,  who  seem  uneasy  at  the  simplicity  of 

tlieir  task,  are  worth  a  close  vnspecWoii. 


The  Holy  cf  Holies.  NIEEO  i4.  BmOe,    2S5 

The  Holt  of  Holies  (or  Naijin),  which  unfortunately  is 
not  shown  to  the  general  public,  is  decorated  with  great,  richness 
and  stands  at  the  end  of  the  passage  connecting  it  with  the 
Go  Heiden.  If  the  visitor  to  Nikkd  brings  a  special  letter  to  the 
abbot  permitting  him  to  inspect  this  sacred  and  secluded  spot, 
he  should  pass  from  the  Uo  Heiden  to  the  encircling  porch 
(rather  than  traverse  the  interior  passa^se)  in  order  to  glimpse 
the  amazingly  rich  exterior  ornamentation.  The  structure  will 
be  seen  to  rest  upon  a  massive  gray  granite  plinth,  well  up  off 
the  ground,  to  be  two  stories  hi^,  and  to  exhibit  such  an 
extraordinarily  siunptuous  lot  of  gilded  ornaments,  sculptures, 
paintings,  diaper-work,  and  apparently  endless  arabesques 
executed  with  infinite  pains,  as  almost  to  overwhelm  the 
observer  by  their  multiplicity  and  opulence.    In  detail  this 
decoration  is  somewhat  similar  to  that  of  the  leyaeu  shrine, 
but  as  the  structure  was  erected  after  that  one,  the  experience 
gained  enabled  the  artists,  to  give  added  splendor  ancl  lavish- 
ness  to  it  and  to  make  it  even  more  strikmg  than  its  highly 
ostentatious  prototjrpe.  The  interior  is  in  the  form  of  a  square 
about  30  by  30  ft.,  with  a  narrow  ambulatory  around  3  sides 
of  a  slightly  raised  dais  marked  off  by  a  wide  black-lacquered 
sill  or  marginal  board  inclosing  a  space  24  ft.  wide.   From  this 
lustrous  margin  rise  8  charmingly  symmetrical  keyaki  pillars 
16  in.  in  diameter,  very  tall,  and  so  heavily  coated  with  gold 
foil  that  they  resemble  solid  gold.  When  the  mellow  beams  of 
the  sun  slant  through  the  latticed  windows  and  strike  dazzling 
sheets  of  yellow  flame  from  them,  the  effect  is  lovely.  Let  into 
the  surrounding  walls  are  many  similar  pilasters,  while  at  the 
right  and  left  of  the  sacrosanct  shrine  (at  the  rear  of  the  dais) 
are  two  pillars  even  more  massive,  with  capitals  draped  with 
fold  after  fold  of  sumptuously  painted  arabesques,  and  enriched 
with  Greek  key-patterns,  crests,  and  such  a  wealth  of  magnifi- 
cent traceiy  as  almost  to  overwhelm  the  senses  with  their 
barbaric  splendor.  Unlike  many  of  the  other  Nikko  shrines  the 
ceiling  here  is  high,  and  is  decorated  to  its  farthermost  point. 
The  effect  of  this,  coupled  with  the  gold  pillars  and  the  equally 
gorgeous  walls,  —  which  also  blaze  with  gold,  —  can  scarcely 
be  imagined.   Above  the  first  group  of  cross-beams,  likewise 
so  covered  with  arabesques  that  they  seem  draped  with  gold 
brocade,  stretches  a  series  of  sculptured  multi-colored  panels 
about  15  in.  high  and  8  to  10  ft.  long,  cut  from  single  pieces  of 
wood.    The  decorative  motives  are  beautiful  flying  tennin 
bearing  musical  instruments  or  Buddhist  symbols.  The  con- 
summate skill  shown  by  the  artist  in  the  treatment  of  the 
floating  draperies,  and  the  general  harmonious  effect,  cause 
these  angels  of  the  Buddhist  Paradise  to  rank  among  the  finest 
wood-carvings  in  Nikko:  the  work  strongly  suggests  Hidari 
Jinffordm  his  best  manner.  Above  these  graceful  foTina,\ixc&X3»^ 
between  other  narrower  but  equally  elaborate  beaina,  axe^ixi<^ 


286    Route  U.  NIEEO  The  Holy  of  HolieB. 

of  slim  panels  completely  covered  with  red  and  gold  decorations 
and  carrying  a  number  of  wood  disks,  of  carved  birds  and  the 
/like,  about  12  in.  in  diameter,  fastened  to  them.  Still  higher, 
between  other  beams,  is  a  series  of  pierced  panels  displaying 
richly  carved  and  painted  phoenixes  m  high  reUef ;  then  come 
other  decorated  beams  resting  upon  the  capitals  of  the  sup- 
porting columns  —  certain  of  the  lower  beams  being  upheld 
by  brightly  painted  brackets  which  reach  out  like  arms  and 
clasp  tnem  in  a  tight  embrace.  All  have  hammered,  embossed, 
or  damascened  metal  fitments  at  the  ends  and  at  various 
intervening  points.  Gold  foil  is  the  groundwork  upon  which  the 
decorations  are  traced,  and  here  and  there  it  shines  out  be- 
tween the  lines  with  brilliant  efifect.  Above  the  final  beams  — 
also  diapered  —  begin  series  of  compound  clustered  brackets, 
gaudily  painted  in  reds  and  blues,  whence  the  roof  slopes  and 
narrows  to  a  big  central  disk  from  which  a  bright-eyed 
wrigghng  dragon,  in  sepia,  the  work  of  Kano  Tanyu,  looks 
down.  Many  slender  tie-beams,  fl3dng  buttresses,  gold- 
covered  rafters  and  cross-pieces  are  features  of  this  glowing 
and  bewildering  superstructure  —  which  is  almost  as  rich  in 
detail  as  the  work  below  it. 

The  floor-mats  are  of  the  finest  texture  and  are  edged  with 
silk  brocade.  Along  the  luminous  golden  walls  are  many  rich 
hanging  emblems,  above  them  gold  panels  with  painted 
phoenixes.  At  the  ends  of  the  side  aisles  are  exquisite  gold- 
covered  panels  with  other  Buddhist  angels  whose  draperies 
show  a  profusion  of  the  costly  imported  cobalt.  Here  also  are 
doors  giving  exit  to  the  rear  balcony,  so  heavily  plated  with 
gold  as  to  resemble  solid  metal.  The  massive  brass  baldachin 
which  swings  above  the  abbot's  seat  is  unusually  ornate.  The 
interior  shows  four  groups  of  deeply  carved  tennin  riveted  to 
the  canopy  and  looking  like  fused  masses  of  solid  gold.  Most 
beautiful  of  alt  the  objects  in  the  interior  of  the  mausoleum  is 
the  striking,  two-storied  inner  shrine,  of  the  costhest  gold- 
lacquer,  and  in  which  is  a  sculptured  and  sanctified  wood 
figure  of  lemitsu.  It  is  temple-shaped  and  it  stands  upon  a 
superbly  lacquered  base  of  lustrous  Indian-red  lacquer  said  to 
be  the  finest  in  Nikko.  The  12  small  door-panels  carry  crests, 
gambolling  shishiy  and  peonies,  all  of  superimposed  lacquer 
(of  the  kind  called  makiye)  in  so  many  layers  that  they  stand 
several  millimeters  above  the  groundwork  and  can  almost  be 
said  to  represent  basso^elievo  work.  At  the  right  and  left  of 
these  doors  are  narrow  panels  with  ascending  and  descending 
dragons  in  a  similar  style  of  work.  The  gold  panels  at  the  ri^t 
of  the  shrine  show  tigers,  hdwo  and  bamboo,  while  those  at  the 
left  have  ahishiy  flowers  and  birds  —  the  latter  with  very  long 
tails.  The  figures  at  the  4  comers  are  the  Shi-Tennd;  the 
bronze  vases  in  front  contain  metal  sprigs  of  ground-pine, 
cJuysaDthemumf  bamboo,  pton,  aadCamellui.  ^a'pofnica.  At  the 


Tomb  of  lemitsu,  NIEEO  I4,  Route.    287 

rear  of  the  room  is  a  narrow  passage  blaiing  with  gold  foil.  In 
the  center  is  a  large  pand  (about  100  by  100  in.)  and  a  number 
of  smaller  ones  all  displaying  huge  peonies.  Formeriy  there 
hung  before  the  central  panel  an  immense  kakemono  (by  Kand 
Tanyu)  showing  ShaJca  and  his  disciples.  The  detached  build- 
ing seen  at  the  left  from  the  porch  in  the  rear  (itself  a  wonder 
of  carving  and  decorations)  is  where  the  sacred  food  for  the 
gods  is  prepared. 

Near  the  inner  shrine  are  numerous  boxes  in  which  some  of  the  most  pre- 
cious relics  of  the  shrine  are  kept:  among  them  are  36  rolls  of  the  Buddhist 
aubrtUt  each  about  12  in.  wide  and  30  ft.  long,  so  exquisitely  illuminated  on 
ailk,  and  so  wonderfully  traced  in  gold  ink  on  a  dark  ground,  that  because  of 
their  peerless  beautjr  alone  they  seem  doubly  sanctified.  The  ends  of  the  rolls 
are  adorned  with  brilliantly  polished  rock-crystals  set  in  a  lacework  of  yellow 
golkd,  and  the  rolls  themselves,  each  swathed  in  a  piece  of  creamy  hc^Uaye, 
mooae  in  a  gold-lacauered  box  that  is  a  dream  of  dainty  beauty.  The  inner 
aioe  of  the  boxes  snow  gold-lacquered  Rimh6  and  Tokugawa  crests;  the 
illuminations  at  the  ends  of  each  roll  portray  Shaka,  in  different  versions,  sur- 
rounded by  his  disciples.  Others  of  the  priceless  relics  of  the  dead  ahogun 
are  swords  of  wonderful  temper  from  the  forges  of  the  early  craftsmen  who 
brought  this  art  in  Japan  to  the  highest  pitch  of  excellence  in  the  known 
world;  lacquered  boxes  and  jewel-caskets;  flawless  rock-crystals  in  whose 
msrstioal  depths  more  than  one  superstitious  ruler  mayhap  has  read  or  mis- 
read his  destiny:  dainty  belongings  of  the  winsome,  long-dead  consorts  of 
these  same  vanished  shdguna;  —  and  many  other  things  considered  as  too 
sacred  to  be  viewed  by  casual  eyes. 

The  Tomb  of  lemitsu  is  reached  by  passing  round  to  the 
right  of  the  mausoleum  and  ascending  the  long  flight  of  steps 
leading  up  the  hill.  The  gate  at  the  foot  is  called  Koka-^mon, 
and  is  of  unique  shape,  with  rounded  shoulders  and  decorations 
in  white,  black,  red,  and  gold.  The  tennin  in  the  panel  of  the 
ceiling  is  by  some  pupil  of  the  Kand  school;  the  white  side 
panels  display  crimson-lipped  Korean  lions.  Twenty-five  steps 
lead  hence  to  the  1st  landins,  whence  one  gets  a  more  satis- 
factory glimpse  of  the  gate  below  than  is  possible  at  the  nairow 
entrance;  37  steps  lead  thence  to  the  next  landing,  thence  6 
more  to  a  small  Haxden^  where  pilgrims  worship  the  tomb  — 
which  is  visible  through  and  beyond  the  shrine.  The  gilded 
figures  are  (right)  Yakushi  and  (left)  Amida;  the  big  metal 
baldachin  almost  fills  the  small  room.  The  massive  bronze 
gates  to  the  tomb  inclosure  display  gilt  Sanscrit  characters 
wlidch  even  the  priests  do  not  understand.  Many  ferns  grow 
on  the  hillside  amidst  the  giant  trees;  good  views  of  the  temples 
below  are  obtainable  here.  Descending  to  the  lower  terrace 
we  pass  behind  the  drum-tower  and  follow  the  path  along  the 
crest  of  the  hill  to 

The  Temple  of  Jigen-Daishi,  a  celebrated  Buddhist  sage 
(died,  1643),  better  known  as  Tenkai^  whom  Hideyoshi 
appointed  abbot  of  the  To-ei-ji  Temple  at  Uyeno  (TokyS)  in 
1625,  and  who  thus  was  likewise  the  director  of  the  Nikko 
(emiMes.  The  building  is  small  but  elaborate  and  dVs^N^ 
pteees^  of  black  furniture  beneath  the  baldacl[mi\  \tiB 


r 


general  napertS™^^ 


288    Roule  U.  NIKKO 

Wheel  of  the  Law  is  Ihe  most  promioent  eieet 
cftte  tcaeery  above  the  architrave,  and  th( 
interior  recalls  certain.  Egyptian  templea. 
of  the  coffered  ceiling  are  pooniea  and  16-petal  chrysiuitJii- 
lunB.  The  tomb  is  atiipai-shapcd  and  stands  behind  the  ahriiK 
.  the  mJUst  of  6  curious  old  life-size  statues  of  various  Buddbiit 
gods.  Hard  by,  inaninclosurereachedby  25Htoneatep8,M»» 
numbor  of  tombs  of  abbots  of  Nikko  who  were  of  the  Impend 
blood.  —  At  the  left  of  this,  on  a  lowej  level,  is  a  small  buHilmg 
with  some  relics  (saddles,  clothine,  and  other  personal  bdoog- 
in)^)  of  Prince  KitaskiTokaTjia.  hi  on  adjacent  buildlni;  a% 
striking  sculptured  wood  figure  of  the  Pnnoe,  mounted  upM 
the  charger  which  carried  nim  through  the  Formosan  cam- 
paign of  1904-05.    The  statue  ia  well  worth  looking  at,  u 


granitu  pRdpstMl.  The  Prince's  tomb  is  at  the  left  in  an  iocki- 
sure  at  the  head  of  several  flights  of  steps,  and  is  faced  b;  the 
usual  mortuary  shrine.  Note  the  angle  of  the  roof  of  the  liuild- 
ing  at  the  rear  (similar  to  that  of  the  stable  on  the  let  texaet 
of  the  leyasu  shrine),  which  housed  the  Prince's  horse  until 
he  died  of  old  age.  Many  pilgrims,  among  them  not  a  few 

Srieata,  daily  climb  to  this  spot  to  reverence  the  spirits  of  tbi 
epsrted  abbots  and  that  of  the  Prince,  who  is  now  deified. 
The  HonqO-Jinja,  b  Shinto  shrine  on  a  terrace  up  at  the 
right  from  the  far  side  of  the  sacred  Red  Bridge,  contaiot 
nothing  of  interest.  The  original  structure  is  swd  to  have  been 
erected  by  SASrfa^ftdnm  in  808;  among  the  small  lot  of  treM- 
ures  (to  see  which  3  «cn  is  charged)  is  a  wood  sign  carved  by 
K^o-Daiahi;  an  immense  aword  with  an  8-ft.  blade,  and  two 
smaller  ones,  said  to  have  belonged  to  the  famous  Yorittm 
and  to  have  been  forged  by  Rai  Kuniloski;  a  prehieloliB 
pottery  vessel  dug  from  the  top  of  Nantai-zan;  some  metal 
mirrors)  a  small  rock-crystal;  and  a  metal  salke-pot  whiidi 
tradition  says  was  found  jumping  around  the  mount^n-od^ 
from  which  circumstance  it  is  called  the  'Jumping  Pot! '  Ao 
older  shrine  stands  at  the  reax,  near  a  tawdry,  3-storied  pagoda, 
now  closed. 
Excursions.  The  environs  of  Nikko  are  unusually  i«rtur- 
■bleinllei  "  " 


esfjueandmany  walks  and  excursions  are  possible  ... „ 

borhood.   The  adjacent  hills  are  ribbed  with  trails,  manjr^ 
whdch  lead  over  slopes  whence  superb  views  are  avail^)le|  W 


quaint  shrines.  The  country  is  safe;  the  woods  a»  s*^ 
undefiled,  and  glorified  by  hosts  of  lovely  wild  flowet^  W 
many  a  cool  sequestered  pool  at  the  '     '     '      """' 

i/ivitM  the  solitary  peAeatriB.(v  Wi  a.  ■ 

nymphs  might  envy.  To  inauv  d 
£nd  qds'a  way  nj^tnui  and  tibiia  uc  ^ 


many  a  cool  sequestered  pool  at  the  foot  of  i.  „ 

i/ivitM  the  solitary  peAeatriB.(v  Wi  a.  ?Wi\i,e.  wac't,  «t  \ha  ww 


KuifvHWaterfaU.  NIKKO  U^  Route.    289 

a  wearisome  guide  (see  p.  xxvi).  In  cases  where  the  latter  is 
necessary,  the  traveler  may  like  .to  remember  that  a  small 
-village  lad  is  oftentimes  better,  cheaper,  and  less  tiresome  than 
oldex  and  more  covetous  persons.  Of  the  threescore  or  morie 
waterfalls  which  are  said  to  exist  in  the  vicinity  of  Nikko,  none 
are  so  beautiful  or  so  artistically  satisfying  as  the  splendid 
Keffon,  the  superb  Dragon's  Head  Cascade,  and  the  ravishingly 
beautiful  Ft^-no-toA^,  aU  passed  on  the  trip  to  Yumoto,  —  The 
fares  quoted  are  for  the  round  trip  imless  otherwise  noted. 

To  the  Kirifuri-no-taki  (3  M.),  thence  (2  M.  beyond)  to  the 
Makkura-daki.  The  first  part  of  the  excellent  road  to  the 
former  (one  of  the  prettiest  short  excursions  in  the  neighbor- 
hood) is  practicable  for  jinrikis  (¥1.  20;  chair,  ¥2.  40;  horse, 
¥1.  60).  but  2  men  are  necessary  owing  to  the  steepness  of  the 
hills.  K  both  falls  are  to  be  visited  (the  latter  is  not  worth  the 
trouble)  one  forenoon  should  be  devoted  to  them,  and  a  coolie 
0^1)  should  be  taken  aiong  to  point  out  the  way,  as  the  indis- 
tinct trail  is  crossed  by  many  footpaths  and  leads  through  a 
rocW  gorge  and  across  a  runnel  subject  to  overflows.  The  trees 
which  at  one  time  enveloped  the  fall  and  darkened  it  (whence 
the  name)  have  been  cut  away.  To  Kirifuriy  1  hr.  by  jinriki; 
IJ  hrs.  on  foot;  euide  (60  sen)  imnecessary.  The  road  circles 
the  schoolhouse  beyond  the  Daiya-gawa^  crosses  the  wide, 
rock-strewn  bed  of  the  tributary  Inari-gawa,  and  mounts  the 
successive  flints  of  stone  steps  on  the  far  hillside.  At  the 
crest,  sitting  back  in  a  clean  yard  studded  with  lofty  trees,  is 
the  dainty  RUsu-dn,  a  Buddhist  temple  upward  of  a  thousand 
years  old  (one  of  the  most  aged  in  Nikko).  The  combination 
gate  and  belfry  is  modeled  on  the  lines  of  the  white  gate  at  the 
root  of  the  steps  leading  to  lemitsu's  tomb.  The  clear,  sweet, 
optimistic  tones  of  the  vesper  bell  which  so  often  ring  through 
Nikko  emanate  from  this  belfry,  and  the  millennium  which 
has  passed  since  they  first  echoed  over  the  hills  and  dales  has 
not  dimmed  their  mellowness  nor  tinged  them  with  melan- 
choly. The  fragrant  garden  —  an  ideal  monkish  retreat  — 
flames  with  azaleas,  wistaria,  and  other  flowers,  and  reminds 
one  of  an  oriole-frequented  garden  of  Louisiana.  A  short  cut 
to  Toyama  HiU  leads  through  it.  Many  of  the  native  pilgrims 
to  the  Nikko  shrines  sleep  in  the  great  raftered  rooms  of  the 
monastery,  which  provides  austere  accommodations  for  such. 
By  following  the  path  between  the  temple  inclosure  and  the 
grove  of  young  cryptomerias  at  the  right,  then  turning  right, 
one  soon  strikes  the  main  road.  A  prettier  way  is  to  tmn 
abruptly  to  the  right  at  the  top  of  the  hill,  and  go  down  through 
the  little  plum  orchard.  At  the  far  end  the  path  slopes  abruptly, 
then  turns  sharply  up  at  the  left,  crosses  a  wooden  bridge  span- 
ning a  narrow  gorge,  and  zigzags  up  the  opposite  slope.  Beyond 
the  crest  a  wide  road  goes  oS  at  the  left  to  a  charming\\tt\e\8ikA 
~  *  ten»oe,  below  a  clean  dweUing  surrounded  by  Vnaea.   K 


280    BmdB  H.  y  NIKKO  TahkiaTmmiXe. 

fiti^ieadhing  view  opeos  out  ftom  the  summei>4iouBB  on  the 
terrace  ovmooldng  Nikk5  and  the  riy».  BoundiDg  the  hill 
the  main  road  dips  between  paddy-fields,  then  asooods  to  the 
(li  M.)  waterfaU.  Signs  at  intervals  warn  hunters  that  game 
must  neither  be  snared  nor  killed  in  the  Imperial  Preserves 
(which  extend  for  60  M.  hereabout  and  end  beyond  Chusenji). 
Many  purple  thistles  flank  the  highway,  along  with  honey- 
suckle and  numerous  flowers  for  which  Nikko  is  celebrated. 
The  prospect  widens  as  the  trail  ascends,  and  lofty  green  mts. 
cut  me  sky-line  on  every  side.  The  view  from  the  tearhouse 
overlooking  the  falls  is  wide  and  attractive.  Both  the  upper 
{vM^noAaki)  and  lower  {nv^ruhbaki)  falls  are  seen  to  tlie  oest 
advantage  just  after  a  heavy  rain,  when  a  hu^  volume  of 
water  plunges  with  a  thunderous  crash  to  the  swirling  pool. 
The  mist  which  gives  it  its  name  is  not  always  in  evidence. 

The  bridle-path  to  the  Makkura-daki  leads  through  the  tea- 
house garden  and  round  the  falls  (rig^tr).  The  coun^  is  open, 
with  wide  views,  but  the  multipHcity  of  paths  made  by 
charcoal-burners  are  confusing.  Only  an  occasional  hunter  or 
a  wood-chopper  is  seen  traversing  the  lonely  region.  The  trail 
soon  leads  to  the  edge  of  a  deep  gulch,  far  down  in  which,  at 
the  right,  is  a  cluster  of  small  nouses  and  some  caverns  that 
have  Been  converted  into  charcoal-kilns.  Two  streams  unite 
their  waters  here  and  flow  as  one  to  the  Kirifuri  FaUs.  That 
at  the  ri^t  comes  from  the  MdkkurordaMf  but  the  bridle-path 
at  fijrst  zigzags  down  into  the  ravine  and  follows  the  stream  at 
the  Mt.  fYom  this  point  the  execrable  trail  crosses  and 
re-crosses  the  stream  and  occ^onally  merges  its  identitv  with 
it.  By  following  the  dizzy  X-^fe-ridge  trail  at  the  right  one 
soon  comes  to  the  falls  (60-60  ft.  high)  —  imposing  only  in  the 
rainy  season.  One  familiar  with  the  locality  can  find  a  cross- 
path  (1  lu:.)  over  the  lulls  between  Kirifuri  and  Nikko. 

A  compi^hensive  excursion  to  which  one  forenoon  can  be 
pJeasantiy  devoted  (best  made  on  foot)  includes  the  Jakkd 
Temple  and  Nana  WaterfaU;  thence  back  over  the  hill  behind 
the  mausolea  to  Gy6ja-dd;  thence  to  the  T^kind  Templcv^and 
the  Vennicelli  Cascade,  whence  it  b  but  a  few  hundred  yi^/^j) 
to  the  San-^no-mipa  and  the  grave  of  Shodd-Shonin.  The  rouna 
trip  is  about  7  M.;  the  path  presents  no  difficulties,  and  the 
wide  views  of  Nikkd  and  the  surrounding  mts.  are  pretty.  The 
dimbing  is  less  if  the  places  are  visited  in  the  order  named.  A 
coolie  to  point  out  the  way  should  not  cost  above  ¥1;  a  horse, 
¥3;  or  a  chair,  ¥4.  Impracticable  for  jinriki.  The  road  l&adB 
up  past  the  NiJck5  HoUtf  along  the  right  wall  of  tiie  Imp^ial 
Vma,  and  parallels  the  car-track  to  the  Shakordd  Shrinef 
where  5  retainers  of^e  ahoguUf  lemitsUf  committed  harakiri 
when  their  lord  and  master  crossed  into  shadow-land.  In  the 
rod  sinioture  in  the  comer  of  the  yard  is  a  pretty  minlfttuio 
duine.  A  0wiftmt.  rivulet  ooiuxee&io\m<dL\)bei<2o^^ 


Vermioeai  CoMode.  NIKKO  li.  BouU.    291 

of  the  t^race  wall,  and  a  aiga-board  points  the  way  to  the  fall. 
The  main  road  dips  here,  tnen  crosses  a  brid|^,  and  continues 
onwajrd  toward  F'uJtamiya.  As  we  turn  up  at  right  angles  to  the 
road,  2  streams  are  soon  observed  coiursing  down  the  small 
gulch  at  the  left;  the  path  to  Jakko  —  which  resembles  a  dry 
river-course  —  leads  up  between  them;  another  and  cooler 
footpath  winds  up  at  the  right  through  thick  underbrush  and 
overhanging  trees,  and  is  more  desirable  on  a  hot  day.  The 
woods  are  a  veritable  tangle  of  fragrant  honeysuckle  (which 
runs  riot  everywhere  and  binds  portions  of  the  undeigrowth 
into  a  tousled  jungle),  columbine,  lovely  double  deutzia,  wild 
hydrangea,  spiraea,  Jack-in-the-pulpit,  and  a  host  of  sweet- 
smelling  flo\.  srs.  The  dingle  is  usually  alive  with  bird  trill- 
ings. Despite  the  many  intersecting  paths  one  cannot  go  far 
astray,  as  the  rounded  hills  are  just  at  the  right,  and  the  falls 
are  naturally  near  the  source  of  the  water.  At  a  point  (15  min.) 
where  a  bisecting,  gulch-like  path  strikes  across  the  main  one, 
turn  to  the  left,  cross  the  little  stream,  walk  back  2  min.  to  the 
left,  and  join  the  main  road  leading  up  at  the  right.  A  leisurely 
w£dk  of  \  hr.  brings  one  to  a  corduroy  bridge  tlm)wn  across  the 
stream;  a  few  yards  farther  along  there  is  another  one  and 
some  stone  steps;  the  falls  are  soon  visible  high  up  on  the  cliff 
ahead.  A  stone  torii,  several  flights  of  ruinous  stone  steps 
almost  covered  with  minute  plant  life,  some  fine  trees,  and  a 
deserted  shrine  on  a  hill  now  come  into  view.  The  path  to  the 
falls  leads  down  at  the  left  to  a  cool,  romantic,  and  inviting 
spot.  The  waters  tumble  (about  80  ft.)  down  the  hillside  in  a 
succession  of  short  leaps,  and,  after  falling  int9  the  pool,  race 
down  a  second  series  of  rocky  i^^rraces  to  a  lower  level.  The 
vegetation  is  luxuriant,  the  adjacfcut  slopes  are  densely  wooded, 
and  the  views  are  pleasing.  [An  obscure  trail  bears  round  from 
behind  the  shrine  toward  the  left,  and  a  stiffish  walk  of  about 
1  hr.  will  bring  the  traveler  to  the  Urami  Fall,  mentioned 
hereinafter.] 

Returning  to  the  midway  intersecting  path  we  follow  this 
(left)  up  the  zigzag  horse-trail  to  the  bare  crest  of  the  hUl, 
wheie  an  extensiviB  view  is  had  of  the  wide  valley  backed  by 
:^ .!  jring  mts.  At  the  right  is  a  shallow  ravine,  and  flanking  it 
is  a  thin  line  of  young  cryptomerias  which  continue  in  single 
file  for  some  distance  up  to,  and  around,  the  top  of  the  tree- 
choked  gorge.  From  this  point  the  views  over  Nildto  and  the 
stony  bed  of  the  Daiyorgawa  are  beguiling.  The  trail  now 
bears  round  toward  the  right;  on  the  crest  of  the  bulky  hill  at 
the  left  is  a  large  stone  {Sessho-^eMymih.  an  inscription  warn- 
ing hunters  off  the  hills.  The  towering  0-^manago  and  Nyoho- 
zan  (good  trail)  are  seen  at  the  right.  The  narrow  path  now 
descends  gradually  through  a  woodland.  At  the  right  and  left 
are  some  precipitous  slopes  clothed  with  groves  of  nobla  tt^ft». 
loyama^s  rounded  crest  is  now  in  view  suiead  (Lel\i)  asi<i  Ixoth 


292    Route  U,  NIEKO  SanmriiaMH. 

the  depth  of  the  great  gorge  comes  the  sound  of  plunging 
water.  The  trail  (left)  down  to  it  (at  Tahino)  is  precipitous, 
and  a  better  one  descends  through  the  beautiful  pnmeval 
forest  at  the  right  —  the  barrier  at  the  rear  of  the  NikkO 
mausolea.  Many  of  the  huge  trees  are  twins  and  triplets;  others 
grow  in  fantastic  family  groups,  as  if  all  sprang  from  the  same 
parent  root.  Moss,  orchids,  lovely  ferns,  and  other  plants 
grow  on  the  higher  branches;  the  voice  of  the  cuckoo  is  heard, 
and  anon  the  booming  call  of  the  wild  pigeon  challenges  the 
resonant,  penetrating  notes  of  the  great  temple  bell  as  they 
ride  upon  the  wind.  A  downward  scramble  over  roots  and 
through  underbrush  soon  brings  one  to 

The  Gyoja-do,  a  tiny  shrine  containing  a  repulsive  figure 
of  En  no  Shokaku  accompanied  by  two  ugly  demons.  Swings 
ing  from  the  doors  are  many  rusted  metal  sandals  hung  there 
by  pilgrims  ambitious  to  acquire  the  sinewy  legs  and  the 
enduring  lungs  which  enabled  En  no  Shokaku  to  pursue  his 
obsession  of  mountain-climbing.  —  The  broad,  treenshaded 
avenue  which  leads  down  at  the  right  goes  past  the  FtUa-ara 
Shrine  to  the  Fviatsvrdo.  The  lower  one,  which  the  stone  steps 
leading  at  the  left  from  the  shrine  soon  join,  goes  to 

The  Taking  Temple  and  the  Vermicelli  Cascade  {Somen- 
ga-taki).  The  former  stands  on  a  terrace  at  the  right  of  the 
cascade  and  is  reached  by  a  succession  of  stone  steps.  The  only 
statue  worth  looking  at  m  the  interior  is  the  gilded  Kwannon. 
The  ugly,  squat  figure  at  the  right  is  Daikoku;  that  at  the  left  is 
Bishamonten.  Beyond  the  temple  is  a  group  of  neglected 
shrines,  stone  bridges,  toni,  and  tne  like,  now  tottering  to  their 
fall.  The  stream  of  crystal  water  and  the  noble  trees  round- 
about are  all  that  make  the  spot  attractive.  The  cascade  is 
often  called  ShiraitOf  or  *  White  Thread  Cascade,'  because  of  a 
fancied  resemblance  to  threads  —  or  to  vermicelli.  At  the  foot 
of  the  fall  sits  a  stone  idol  whose  poor  old  head  is  covered  with 
short  green  grass  that  makes  it  ludicrous.  —  Returning  we 
follow  the  main  flagged  walk  between  superb  cryptomerias 
and  many  neglected  tombs.  One  at  the  left  is  said  to  stand 
above  the  spot  where  a  favorite  horse  of  the  shoguny  leyasUf  is 
buried.  Farther  along  Oeft),  at  the  base  of  some  giant  trees,  is 
a  huge  boulder  called  the  *  Hand-touched  Stone,  from  a  silly 
belief  that  it  was  sanctified  by  Shodd-Shonin.  The  neglected 
shrine  behind  the  stone  torii  (right)  was  once  sacred  to  Sugar 
wara  Michizane.  Behind  the  decaying  Kaisan-do,  with  some 
rubbishy  idols,  within  a  fenced  inclosure,  is  the  forgotten, 
stupa-shaped  tomb  of  Shodo-Shonin,  with  others  of  his  disciples 
in  the  inclosure  at  the  right.  Near  by,  in  a  shallow  cave  cut 
into  the  base  of  the  lull,  stand  a  number  of  Buddhist  images 
(Hotoke-iwa)  from  which  the  hill  derives  its  name.  Hard  by  at 
the  left  is  the  poor  San-no-miyaj  with  an  outstanding  torii  on 
which  credulous  women  place  BmaW,  ^ed^<sr«haped  blocks  of 


Qamrnnrgorfuchi,  NIKKO  H.  Route,    293 

wood  inscribed  with  prayers  to  make  parturition  easier.  The 
abundance  of  water  which  courses  throu^  this  section  brings 
many  lovely  wild  flowers  into  brilliant  hfe.  In  early  sununer 
great  blotches  of  coreopsis,  blue  and  white  hydrangeas,  spirsea, 
and  other  plants  gladden  the  eyes. 

Ganunan-ga-fuchi,  a  shallow  pool  in  the  (1  M.)  Daiyorgawa 
overlooked  by  a  short  path,  at  the  edge  of  which  stand  a 
number  of  stone  Buddhas  (known  locally  as  the  Hundred 
Jizd)y  lies  within  a  25-min.  walk  of  the  Kanaya  Hotel  (coolie, 
35  sen;  jinriki,  70  sen;  chair,  ¥1.40),  and  considerably  nearer 
to  the  Nikko  Hotel.  The  road  traverses  the  town  of  Iri-machi^ 
at  the  foot  of  which  a  crude  wooden  bridge  stretches  across  the 
river;  the  power-house  of  the  Nikko  Electric  Light  Co.  is  seen 
just  beyond  —  below  the  big  steel  flumes.  At  the  far  end  of 
the  bridge,  turn  sharply  to  the  right  and  continue  on  between 
the  twin  lines  of  native  dwellings.  The  street  soon  merges  its 
identity  into  that  of  a  narrow  woods-path,  at  the  side  of  which 
are  some  dilapidated  stone  statues  and  mortuary  tablets.  It 
bends  to  the  right  farther  along,  and  leads  to  a  deserted  shrine 
on  a  terrace  overlooking  the  river.  Just  beyond  is  a  single  line 
of  moss-  and  Uchen-covered  stone  statues,  tombstones,  and 
tablets;  below,  at  the  right,  the  impetuous  river  raves  and 
dashes  in  swirling  eddies  over  rhyolite,  between  high  banks. 
Tlie  statues  are  of  many  sizes;  the  heads  of  some  are  new,  and 
contrast  oddly  with  the  older  trunks  to  which  they  are 
cemented;  some  are  covered  with  short,  gray  moss  surprisingly 
like  wigs,  while  others  have  paper  prayers  pasted  on  them. 
Fatuous  vacancy  characterizes  their  expressionless  faces  rather 
than  the  Buddhistic  calm  and  the  great,  nirvanorlike  peace 
which  some  writers  like  to  attribute  to  them.  —  Farther  along 
the  river  is  a  2d  line  of  (33)  stone  figures  and  some  unoccupied 
bases  from  which  other  statues  have  been  whisked  away  by  the 
river  at  flood-time.  The  site  must  have  been  a  favorite  one  in 
the  old  days,  for  on  the  jumbled  rocks  which  project  midway 
into  the  stream  are  other  bases  which  once  supported  idols 
that  have  now  disappeared.  Immediately  opposite  the  point, 
on  a  concave  rock  surmounted  by  a  tree,  is  a  half-obliterated 
ideograph,  thought  to  represent  the  Sanscrit  word  Hdmman 
(of  which  Gamman  is  said  to  be  a  corruption).  Albeit  a  man 
standing  in  a  moored  boat  or  working  at  the  end  of  a  rope 
could  easily  chisel  the  character  on  the  stone,  the  fervid  native 
imagination  has  attributed  it  to  a  miraculous  action  of  the 
renowned  Kobo-Daishi  (upon  whose  unfortunate  head  evenr- 
thing  of  a  like  nature  and  of  doubtful  paternity  is  heaped), 
who  is  thought  to  have  accomplished  it  by  launching  his 
chisel  from  the  opposite  side  of  the  stream  against  the  rock  I 

Retracing  oin*  steps  to  the  gash  in  the  hillside  between  the 
two  groups  of  statues,  and  ascending  a  few  yards,  ^e  come  V^  «h 
fine  and  deep  stream  of  water  which  hurries  out  ol  Sd  ^kju^ 


294    Route  H.  NIKKO  Urand-ga4afcL 

tuimel  hard  b^r  and  races  down  the  sluice  to  the  flumes  above 
the  i)owei>8tation.  At  the  right,  on  a  high  terrace  overlooking 
the  river,  is  a  quaint  old  Buddhist  graveyard  with  many  bizarre 
monuments  mottled  with  age  and  inscribed,  in  some  cases, 
with  Sanscrit  characters.  Continuing  along  through  this 
charming  and  sequestered  s^t,  then  crossing  a  narrow  plank 
bridge,  we  follow  the  trail  in  its  upward  trend  and  obtain 
attractive  views  of  the  river  as  it  boils  and  tumbles  through  its 
rock-ribbed  bed  below.  Tall  mts.  rise  green  and  majestic  at 
the  left.  The  intake  of  the  Electric  light  Co.'s  tunnel  is  hare- 
about,  and  the  swift  and  remarkably  clear  water  is  seen  to 
rush  in  through  a  big  wood  sluice-gate.  By  continuing  along 
the  path  for  about  20  min.  we  come  (left)  to  a  narrow  valley 
whidi  in  May  and  early  June  is  a  ^lory  of  brick-red  azaleas 
growing  on  hu^e  bushes  15-20  ft.  high,  and  lovely  pink-and- 
white  ones  on  sizeable  trees.  The  species  (called  YaahU,  from 
the  Chinese  name  of  the  province  in  which  Nikko  is  situated) 
is  said  to  be  found  of  such  size  nowhere  else  in  Japan.  Scat- 
tered among  the  trees  are  many  tall  lacquer  trees,  —  the 
residue  of  a  sort  of  plantation  started  here  sometime  ago.  — 
Retmning  to  Iri-machi,  one  may  spend  a  few  minutes  advan- 
tageously by  inspecting  the  Uttle  Joko-ji  Shrine  which  stands 
in  a  long  yard  containing  many  Buddhist  tombs,  bronze  bells, 
and  what-not,  about  midway  of  the  1st  street  which  turns  up 
at  the  left  from  the  bridge.  Scattered  among  some  grumpy- 
looking  figures  of  Jizo  are  several  chiseled  statues  of  a  seated 
Kwannon  which  attract  attention  by  their  nonchalant  atti- 
tudes -^  the  right  knee  being  raised  to  support  the  elbow,  while 
the  cheek  rests  in  the  palm  of  the  upraised  hand;  a  position  at 
once  languid  and  pensive.  — The  charming  little  temple  of 
DainichtHidf  and  the  celebrated  garden  which  enshrined  it, 
were  swept  from  their  site  on  the  river  opposite  the  stone 
Buddhas,  by  the  destructive  freshet  of  1902.  —  The  somnolent 
town  of  Iri-machi  attained  to  considerable  importance  during 
the  17th  cent.,  when  the  mausolea  were  being  constructed. 
Many  of  the  workmen  dwelt  here,  and  not  a  few  of  the  streets 
C  Carpenter,*  *  Stone-Mason,'  etc.)  exist  to  recall  the  period. 
—  The  Imverial  ViUa  hard  by  is  not  open  to  the  public,  and  is 
occupied  during  the  summer  months  only.  The  Botanical 
Garden  (interesting  specimens  of  mt.  flora)  behind  it,  on  a 
spot  called  Hana-Ishi-Machi,  is  an  adjunct  of  the  TSkyo 
Imperial  University. 

Urami-ga-taki  (4  M.;  coolie,  60  sen;  horse,  ¥1.50;  jinriki, 
¥1.20;  chair,  ¥2.40)  and  the  Jikwan-no-taki  (7  M.;  coolie, 
¥1.20;  horse,  ¥3;  chair,  ¥4.80).  The  1st  waterfall  is  pretty 
and  is  within  a  leisurely  li  hrs.  walk  of  the  Kanaya  Hciel. 
JinriMs  can  go  i  of  the  way  over  a  good  wagon-road.  The  last 
portion  of  the  trail  leads  ovet  a  st^epish  hill  and  down  into  a 
BbaHow  ravine.  A  guide  is  uimeci^s&an  i^^^  ^  ws^Jofc  ^^uld  be 


Jthwan-^no^aki.  NIKEO  I4.  Route.    2&5 

taken  along  if  the  2d  fall  (2  M.  beyond,  at  the  end  of  an  execra- 
bly hot,  ascending  horse-trail)  is  to  be  visited  (scarcely  worth 
a  special  effort,  as  its  one-time  beauty  was  spoiled  by  the  flood 
of  1902).  We  follow  (for  about  30  min.)  the  car-track  that 
leads  past  the  Nikkd  Hotel  to  the  open  country  (to  the  firat 
wide  road  sloping  upward  at  the  right).  The  zigzag  trail 
visible  on  the  Mllside  at  the  far  right  goes  to  iheTahind  Temple. 
On  a  spring  morning  the  meadows  are  deliciously  fresh  and 
sweet  —  vocal  with  the  voices  of  meadow-larlra  and  the 
answering  calls  of  cuckoos.  After  reaching  a  copious  rivulet 
ihaX  plunges  through  a  gorge  at  the  left,  the  road  follows  the 
gap(n^ht)  until  it  assumes  the  form  of  a  cafion.  The  wooden 
footbridge  stretched  above  a  series  of  falls  is  crossed  before  the 
Jikwan  trail  is  entered.  —  Urami  is  about  5  cho  (10  min.) 
beyond  the  Uttle  tea-house  (li^ht  refreshments)  high  on  the 
river  bank,  on  the  near  side  (nght)  of  the  stream.  The  trail 
leads  in  front  of  the  house  and  zigzags  up  the  side  of  the  low 
cliff.  The  rickety  sapling  bridges  suspended  by  galvanized 
wire  look  risky,  but  are  safe.  The  path  is  gouged  from  the 
base  of  the  hill,  and  the  water  which  trickles  steadily  down  its 
face  brings  many  tiny  lilies  into  fragrant  life.  To  reach  the 
faUs  one  must  descend  to  the  river,  cross  it,  and  cUmb  to  the 
tea-house  which,  as  usual,  straddles  the  path  where  the  best 
view  is  obtainable.  Passing  through  the  house  (small  fee 
expected  if  no  tea  is  bought),  one  proceeds  along  a  narrow 
terrace  and  stands  beneath  the  fall  (about  60  ft.  high)  —  which 
plunges  through  a  horseshoe  gap  before  precipitating  itself 
mto  the  churning  pool  below. 

To  reach  the  Jikwan-no-taki  we  return  to  the  bridge,  cross 
the  stream,  continue  along  the  trail  for  a  few  yards,  then  turn 
up  the  well-defined  path  (right)  lying  between  and  beneath 
isM  forest  trees.  It  grows  more  perplexing  as  one  ascends,  and 
is  apt  to  be  bad  during  and  just  after  a  heavy  rain.  The  narrow, 
V-shaped  gully  into  which  it  soon  merges  is  rocky  and  stuffy. 
Exuberant  vegetation  rises  on  every  side.  After  J  hr.  the  trail 
forks,  a  half-blind  one  leading  to  the  right,  up  a  defile,  the 
main-traveled  one  to  the  left.  [By  following  this  upward 
through  alternating  woodland  and  over  solitary  upland 
meadows  covered  with  bamboo-grass,  one  comes  (about  li  M.) 
to  a  narrow,  lonely  gorge  from  which  the  trail  goes  over  the 
high  ridge  and  leads  eventually  to  Nantai-zan.]  Bearing  to  the 
right,  we  soon  come  within  sound  of  the  surging  river.  A  good 
view  into  a  deep  gulch  is  had  at  a  point  where  the  trail  crosses 
a  rocky  river-bed.  Beyond  this  it  follows  another  V-shaped 
arroyo  with  many  woods-flies  and  other  abominations.  The 
last  stretch  is  the  best,  the  path  lying  between  a  deep  ca&on 
at  the  right  and  a  shallower  one  at  the  left.  The  tall  baixi\>OQ- 
mm  makes  ideal  nmways  for  the  fine  copper  pheafiaiiiB  'wVac^ci 
hned  here,  and  frequently  one  Btira  them  up  and  is  trea^ei  \o  ^ 


296    Rovie  15,         FROM  NIKKO  TO  YUMOTO 

flash  of  iridescent  glory  as  they  hurtle  down  the  valley  rin^ng 
with  their  harsh,  metallic  cries. 

In  early  summer  the  rounded  hill  is  gorgeous  with  wild 
fleur-de-lys,  creamy  liHes,  and  such  a  host  of  other  wild  flowers 
that  the  face  of  Nature  is  rosy  with  their  blooms.  The  song 
of  the  lark  echoes  again  ajid  again  across  the  immense  valley 
inclosed  by  stupendous  hills.  At  a  distance  the  slopes  of  these 
resemble  beautiful  trinuned  lawns,  with  here  and  there  a  bunch 
of  bushes  or  a  tree  so  sharply  defined  as  almost  to  convince  one 
that  they  were  planted  by  the  hand  of  man.  Barring  the  fierce- 
eyed  hawks  which  wheel  and  skirl  overhead,  the  solitude  is 
complete.  The  falls  are  soon  descried  far  ahead,  beyond  a 
deepbh  valley;  they  are  much  more  imposing  when  one  stands 
quite  beneath  them,  but  they  are  now  but  a  simulacrum  of 
ttieir  former  glory.  Twin  ridges  run  clear  across  fhe  valley 
where  the  water  comes  into  it,  and  over  them  it  tumbles  to  a 
rock-strewn  gulch.  In  the  dry  season,  the  falls  (which  are 
named  after  a  Buddhist  priest  who  brou^t  them  into  promi- 
nence) are  meager  and  insignificant. 

The  Ascent  of  Nyohd-zan  (8  M.)  represents  a  long,  hard 
day's  work  (about  6  hrs.  up  and  4  down),  while  the  view  from 
the  summit,  though  wider,  is  but  little  better  than  that 
obtainable  from  some  of  the  lesser  peaks;  it  is  inferior  to  the 
view  from  Nantai-zan.  The  way  leads  past  the  Gyoja-do,  from 
which  point  one  ascends  the  narrow  path  mentioned  at  p.  291. 
It  is  impracticable  for  horses  or  'chairs,'  which  usually  go  up 
the  zigzag  path  at  the  right  of  the  road  leading  to  the  Jakko 
Waterfall.  As  both  paths  are  apt  to  be  overgrown  by  the 
vigorous  bamboo-^ass  which  clothes  all  the  hill-slopes  around 
Nikko,  a  local  guide  (¥1.80)  is  advisable.  Water  should  be 
included  with  the  luncheon,  as  there  is  a  scarcity  of  it  on  the 
mt.  A  curious  feature  of  the  summit  is  an  immense  crawhng 
pine  tree  which  covers  a  wide  area  with  its  multitudinous  roots 
—  that  strike  into  the  ground  from  wherever  an  elbow  of  the 
great  tree  touches  it.  A  woman  unused  to  stiff  cUmbing 
would  find  the  trip  arduous. 

ToYAMA  Hill  (IJ  M.),  which  stands  beyond  the  Inarv-gawa 
and  the  RUsu-in  Temple,  can  be  climbed  in  about  1  hr.  and 
the  trip  (coolie,  45  sen)  presents  no  difficulties.  A  small  rest- 
house  stands  on  the  summit,  whence  the  view  is  but  a  trifle 
more  extensive  than  that  obtainable  from  the  hill  behind  the 
Kanaya  Hotel.  A  short  cut  to  Toyama  lies  through  the 
Ritsu-dn  garden. 

XS.  From  Nikkd  to  Chuzenji  and  Yumoto. 

*Lake  Chuzenji,  8  M.  from  Nikk5  and  2460  ft.  higher,  is  one 
of  the  lovelieat  spots  in  the  Japanese  highlands,  and  should  not 
be  omitted. 


CHUZENJI  16,  Route.    297 

The  broad  highway  conneetins  it  with  Nikkd  is  unmistakable  and  is  prac- 
ticable for  jinrikis  (¥2;  round  trip,  ¥2.80),  horses  (¥2-3),  and  chairs  0F4- 
5.60).  A  coolie  ^1-1.40)  is  necessary  only  when  there  is  lugga^  to  be  car- 
ried. A  walk  thither  on  a  bright  inoming  is  thoroughly  charming:  the  mt. 
scenery  is  inspiring,  and  one  usually  meets  many  courteous  and  happy  folks 
trudging  between  the  two  places.  Although  June  with  its  mynad  wild 
flowers  is  beautiful,  the  season  customarily  begins  about  July  15  (at  which 
time  hotel  rooms  should  be  engaged  in  advance)  and  ends  in  mid-September. 
The  maple  display  in  Oct.  is  wonderful.  The  air  is  considerably  cooler  than 
at  Nikkd.  Pedestrians  can  save  about  3  M,  on  the  outward  journey  by  tak- 
ing the  tram-car  from  Nikkd  to  its  terminus.  The  greater  part  of  the 
walk  is  beneath  shade,  and  the  last  i  M.  is  over  a  fine  level  road  through 
a  stately  forest. 

Beyond  Fvtamiyay  where  a  settlement  clusters  about  the 
works  of  the  Nikko  Electric  Copper  Refining  Co.,  the  tram- 
cars  proceed  to  Iwa-no-hana,  near  the  river.  The  road  follows 
tbe  stream  with  a  trend  to  the  right."  The  power-station  of  the 
Ashio  Copper  Mines  Co.j  far  up  the  hillside  at  the  left,  beyond 
the  river,  marks  the  terminus  of  a  big  tunnel  leading  from  the 
Kegon  Waterfall  —  where  there  is  suflficient  of  an  intake  to 
develop  10,(X)0  horse-power.  A  leisurely  20  min.  walk  brings 
one'  to  Uma-gaeshi  (pron.  mahng-eye'-she)  or  *  horse-turn- 
back *  (so  called  because  the  old  road  was  so  steep  that  horsea 
could  not  go  beyond  this  point),  where  the  small  Tsutaya  Inn 
(¥2)  supplies  light  refreshments.  Beyond  this  point,  the  excel- 
lent road  (maintained  by  the  Gov't)  lies  through  a  wild  and 
ru^ed  canon  down  which  the  river  brawls  and  plunges  furi- 
ouisly.  The  long  screes  which  scar  the  hillsides,  and  the  wide 
talus  heaps  below,  point  to  the  destructiveness  of  the  stream. 
From  the  Misawa  tea-house,  the  road  zigzags  sharply  upward 
to  (about  15  min.)  a  ridge  called  Kengaminej  with  twin  water- 
falls (Hannya,  and  Hodo).  Another  20  min.  brings  one  to  the 
Naka-no-^hayay  or  halfway  tea-house,  picturesquely  situated 
on  a  small  terrace  overlooking  a  stupendous  chasm  and  many 
miles  of  mt.  and  valley.  A  puny  little  waterfall  dribbles  down 
the  face  of  the  cliff  at  the  left.  The  local  *  sight'  is  a  huge 
stone  beside  the  road,  called  jishaku-ishi  (lode-stone),  which 
evidently  is  not  magnetic,  as  it  fails  to  flutter  a  compass  held 
against  it.  The  deep,  somber  ravine  just  beyond  at  the  right, 
with  walls  of  ominous  purple,  is  suggestive  of  plutonian  regions. 
The  agile  and  sinewy  natives  utilize  many  of  the  short  cuts 
{shikamachi)  which  lead  off  from  the  main  road  and  rejoin  it 
higher  up.  A  2  hrs.  leisurely  ascent  from  Uma-gaeshi  brings 
one  to  the  edge  of  the  beautiful  woodland  plain  on  which 
Chuzenji  and  the  lake  repose.  Nantai-zan  rises  majestically 
at  the  right.  By  making  a  short  detour  to  the  left  and  climb- 
ing (5  min.)  the  ridge  on  which  the  New  Park  is  located,  one 
may  enjoy  a  marvelous  panorama  of  a  deep  cafion  with  a 
silvery  river  wriggling  through  its  depths  and  a  mass  of  cyclo- . 
pean  mts.  rising  grandly  beyond.  Near  the  point  (i  M.*^ 
where  the  side  path  regains  the  main  road,  the  latt^i  1ot\;&\ 
thai  at  the  right  leading  to  (15  nnn.)  Chuzenji,  tihe  \elt  g^CAB!^ 
(2  mm.)  to 


2m    Route  IS.  CBUZENJI  Lake  Chtusenji. 

The  *£jBJGON  Waterfall  ( Kegonr^ruhtaki)^  which  now  serves 
as  an  overflow  for  Lake  Chuzenji,  but  which  is  graduallv  cut- 
ting its  way  down  through  the  doleritic  lava  strata  ana  may 
some  day  drain  it  entirely.  The  view  of  the  Daiyorgawa  (here 
about  10  ft.  wide)  as  it  pours  through  the  narrow  cleft, 
spreads  like  a  mass  of  snow  shot  with  green,  and  plunges  with 
a  thunderous  roar  250  ft.  to  the  wide  vortex  below,  is  su- 
perb. The  tremendous  impact  sends  up  clouds  of  spray 
which  catch  the  rays  of  the  sun  and  fill  the  noisy  cafion 
with  spectacular  rainbows.  From  the  right  and  left,  numerous 
tiny  waterfalls  spurt  out  of  the  sheer  sides  of  the  cliff  and 
form  beautiful  pictures  as  the  wind-blown  water  grates  to 
the  bottom.  A  fine  view  is  obtainable  from  an  artmcial  ter- 
race and  a  sort  of  mid-air  platform  suspended  among  the 
trees  down  at  the  left  of  the  tea-house.  A  still  better  one 
can  be  gained  by  scrambling  (15  min.)  to  a  point  almost  level 
with  the  pool,  where  the  vista  of  the  down-rushing  water  is 
awe-inspiring.  The  fall  passed  on  the  way  is  caUed  White 
Cloud  Fall  (shirorkumo).  When  the  lake  is  low,  the  mainfsdl 
slackens  to  a  contemptible  trickle,  and  in  the  dead  of  winter 
it  is  often  represented  by  a  few  exaggerated  icicles  that  cling 
to  the  lip  of  the  precipice.  A  short  distance  down  the  cation 
is  the  intake  timnel  mentioned  above.  —  Kegon  has  an  irresist- 
ible attraction  for  love-lorn  natives  possessed  of  the  suicide 
mania.  The  habit  of  penciling  erotic  odes  on  near-by  trees, 
then  jumping  into  the  resistless  current,  has  become  so  strong 
with  certain  high-strung  persons  that  a  police  guard  is  stationed 
here  to  prevent  the  exchange  of  a  fairly  stable  earth  for  an 
uncertain  eternity. 

The  Lakeside  Hotel  (English  spoken)  stands  near  the  Kegon 
Fall,  at  the  S.  end  of  the  lake,  amid  beautiful  surroundings. 
Nantai-zan  rises  in  solemn  grandeur  at  the  right;  fragrant 
forests  stretch  away  over  minor  hills  at  the  left;  the  peUucid 
waters  of  the  lake,  reflecting  the  surrounding  mts.  with  aU 
their  glorious  coloring,  spread  away  from  the  foot  of  the  front 
lawn;  while  far  away  on  the  sky-Une  is  discerned  the  Konsei 
Pass  with  its  attendant  giants.  The  summer  rates  at  the  hotel 
vary  from  ¥5  to  ¥15  a  day,  Amer.  pL,  with  a  10%  reduction 
for  a  stay  of  a  week  or  more;  for  2  pers.  in  a  room,  from  ¥9  to 
¥18.  Wmter  rates  considerably  less.  Boats  at  50  sen  the  hr., 
or  ¥2  a  day;  horses,  ¥3  a  day.  The  rates  at  the  several  native 
inns  on  the  lake  shore  range  from  ¥2  to  ¥3.50. 

Lake   Chuzenji,   or    Chuzenji-ko;   called    also   Setsu-ro-ko 

C  Clear  snow-water  lake^,  4460  ft  above  the  Pacific  Ocean  and 

almost  equidistant  between  it  and  the  Sea  of  Japan,  is  said  to 

measure  2i  M.  from  N.  to  S.,  7i  E.  and  W.,  and  to  be  560  ft. 

deep  near  the  center.  This  very  considerable  depth  aided  by 

strong  winds  prevents  its  sweet  water  from  freezing.  Orii^n- 

^y  it  contained  no  fi^.   At  pTeseiit  \t  S&  ^^  f^ftsi^ssd  with 


NanOai'zan.  CHUZENJI  15.  RmOe.    299 

salmon-trout  from  the  HokkaidS;  American  rainbow  trout;  a 
native  trout,  and  minor  fish.  A  license  (procurable  through 
the  hotel  manager;  ¥1  a  day)  is  necessary  before  they  can  be 
taken.  The  revenue  derived  is  applied  to  the  support  of  the 
fish  hatchery  near  the  N.  end  of  the  lake.  The  surroundings 
are  among  the  most  beautiful  and  perfect  in  Japan.  Forest- 
clad  hills  encircle  the  lake  and  rise  to  an  imposing  height.  In 
May  and  early  June,  when  a  wealth  of  pink,  white,  andpurple 
azaleas  decorate  the  environs;  when  the  giant  trees  are  fes- 
tooned with  lovely  wistaria  clusters  and  trsuling  Lycopodium 
sieboldi;  or  in  Oct.,  when  the  subtle  alchemy  of  Natm^  paints 
the  maples  and  other  deciduous  trees  with  the  gorgeous  tmts  of 
the  sunset's  richest  afterglow,  the  scene  is  entrancing.  The  • 
most  beautiful  time,  however,  is  midsummer,  when  the  tran- 
quil pool  drowses  like  a  lapis-lazuli  mirror  in  a  faultless  green 
frame  and  reflects  every  soft  outline  of  the  billowly  clouds  that 
ride  lazily  above  it.  Then  it  recalls  nothing  so  much  as  a  gigan- 
tic porcelain  plaque  with  a  myriad  shy  beauties  visible  beneath 
its  translucent  glaze.  At  that  time  the  days  run  softly;  the 
hours  are  long  and  sweet  and  satisfying;  the  increasing  com-  ' 
plexities  of  life  are  removed  to  the  remote  limbo  reserved  for 
all  forms  of  strenuosity;  and  a  renewal  of  youth  becomes  a 
reality.  When  the  first  heavy  snows  of  winter  fall  the  environ- 
ing woods  are  beautiful  beyond  compare,  —  silent,  ghostly, 
and  inspiring,  —  but  usually  there  are  few  to  enjoy  them. 

Chuzenji  Village  (or  Chugushi)  consists  of  a  single  long 
street  which  flanks  the  E.  shore  of  the  lake  as  far  as  the  FtUa- 
ara  Shrine;  its  few  score  houses  and  shops  cater  chiefly  to  the 
wants  of  the  travelers  who  make  the  place  a  summer  rendez- 
vous. The  crystals,  iron  P3n:ites,  and  other  mineral  specimens 
on  sale  come  from  the  Ashio  Copper  Mine.  The  Fvia-ara 
Shrinej  believed  to  have  been  founded  by  Shodo-Shonin  in  816, 
stands  behind  a  big  bronze  torii  at  the  N.  edge  of  the  village 
and  contains  nothing  of  interest.  Beyond  it  is  the  great  scar 
left  by  the  landslip  of  1902.  A  duplicate  of  the  Buddhist 
temple  which  was  swept  into  the  lake  at  that  time  can  be  seen 
on  the  other  side  of  the  lake,  beyond  the  hotel.  At  the  right 
of  the  shrine  is  a  closed  and  locked  ^ate  which  marks  the  foot 
of  the  road  to  the  summit  of  Nantai-zan. 

Nantai-zan  (8460  ft.;  2d  highest  monarch  of  the  Nikko 
Eange),  known  variously  as  Chuzenjisanj  Futa-ara-sarij 
Kurogami-yamay  Kita-Fuji,  and  Nikkd-sariy  rises  steeply 
from  the  N.E.  side  of  the  lake  and  is  covered  with  timber  to  its 
rounded  peak  —  the  one-time  vent  of  an  active  volcano.  The 
Futor-ara  Shrine  at  the  summit  is  the  objective  point  of  several 
thousand  pious  pilgrims  who  climb  to  it  each  year. 

For  the  ordinary  tourist  the  mt.  is  opened  officially  May  15  atid  c^oae^ 
Oet.  16.   For  pilgrims  it  is  the  scene  of  strenuous  penitemtiaX  exexcoeaVs*- 
tmen  the  15th  and  22d  of  August.   In  order  to  view  the  simTiBe  ttom  liSbA 


300    Rmde  16.  CHUZENJI  Ashio  Mmes. 

summit  on  the  opening  day,  the  pilgrims  foregather  in  numbers  at  midnight 
of  the  15th,  at  which  time  the  gate  is  thrown  open.  The  scene  is  unusually 
picturesque;  each  penitent  is  clad  in  spotless  white  and  equipped  with  a 
pilgrim's  hat,  staff,  and  lantern.  As  the  long,  thin,  ghostly  line  toils  skyward 
m  the  pitchy  blackness,  rendered  even  blacker  by  the  great  massed  trees, 
the  trail  of  dancing  lights  resembles  a  huge  fiery  diugon  or  a  procession  of 
fairies.  The  ascent  occupies  about  5  hrs.  The  admission  fee  is  35  sen,  and 
when  this  is  paid  at  the  temple  office,  each  pilgrim  is  given  some  pressed  rice- 
cakes  and  a  paper  stamped  with  a  crest  and  an  admonition  from  the  gods. 
The  hotel  manager  will  arrange  for  a  guide  (80  sen  for  the  trip)  and  provide 
food  and  a  bottle  of  water  (unobtainable  at  the  top).  By  leaving  the  hotel 
at  2.30  A.M.  a  good  climber  can  reach  the  summit  before  sunrise.  The  ascent 
is  toilsome  but  not  risky.  The  road  is  a  sort  of  inclined  corduroy,  o!  saplings 

? laced  horizontally  and  held  in  place  by  stakes  driven  deeply  into  the  ground, 
'he  last.section  isfsteepish,  but  the  tired  climber  is  helped  out  by  iron  chains. 
In  former  times,  women  were  not  allowed  to  make  the  ascent,  but  they  can 
-  do  so  now  for  3  days  after  Sept.  20.  The  scene  at  the  top,  as  the  line  of  tired 
but  happy  people  streams  upward  and  over  the  gigantic  crest  in  the  gray 
dawn,  trembling  with  emotion  at  having  attained  the  cloud-capped  goal  of 
their  religious  desires,  and  waiting  in  hushed  expectancy  for  the  marvelous 
panorama  that  soon  bursts  upon  them,  is  one  that  never  fades  from  the 
mind.  The  view  is  sublime.  Shiranesan  (loftiest  of  the  Nikk6  Range)  rises 
grandly  at  the  W.,  surrounded  by  many  giant  peaks,  while  beyond  the  plain 
on  which  Tdkyo  stands  is  the  matchless  cone  of  the  yet  more  sacred  Fuji. 
^  A  dozen  or  more  minor  peaks  shoot  up  in  pointed  grandeur  from  the  four 
*  points  of  the  compass,  and  when  the  first  sunbeams  gild  their  summits,  the 
effect  is  enchanting.  When  the  beams  drop  to  the  valley  of  the  Daiya-pawa 
and  bathe  the  sacred  groves  of  Nikkd  in  their  mellow  splendor,  they  pick  but 
the  glittering  crests  along  the  temple  roof  s,  and  erelong  scores  of  golden  helio- 
graphic  signals  seem  to  be  flashing  upward  to  the  mother  shrine  on  the  crest 
of  the  hallowed  mountain. 

About  10,000  pilgrims  make  the  Nikko-Chuzenji  circuit  each 
year,  climbing  first  the  bulky  Nyoho-zan,  then  K<Mnanago, 
0-managOy  and  finally  Nantai-zan.  When  they  have  thus  made 
their  peace  with  the  gods,  and  flouted  the  devil,  they  proceed 
to  Yumoto  to  soak  in  the  sulphurous  waters  there,  and  talk  it 
over.  If  they  can  scale  any  of  the  sacred  peaks  in  that  circuit, 
they  consider  that  they  have  added  that  much  more  to  their 
accumulated  merit,'  and  when  they  walk  jauntily  down  to 
Nikko,  they  radiate  happiness  at  every  step  and  feel  purified, 
sanctified,  and  at  peace  with  the  world.  —  Many  charming 
walks  are  possible  in  the  vicinity  of  Chuzenji.  A  list,  with 
distances,  coolie  hire,  etc.,  will  be  found  posted  in  the  hotel 
lobby.  A  short  popular  excursion  (a  pleasant  day's  outing) 
is  to  the  Nishi-no-koy  a  small  lake  3  M.  from  the  W.  end  of 
Chuzenji.  A  boat  may  be  taken  to  Senju  (at  the  W.  end) 
whence  the  level  road  leads  through  the  woods. 

The  Ashio  Copper  Mines,  one  of  the  largest  and  most  pro- 
ductive groups  in  Japan,  are  accessible  from  Chuzenji  and  lie 
about  8  M.  S.,  at  the  end  of  a  trail  impracticable  for  vehicles. 
A  good  walker  can  compass  the  fatiguing  outward  trip  in  3—4 
hrs.  and  if  he  so  wishes  may  return  over  the  15  M.  stretch  to 
Futamiya  and  (3  M.)  Nikko.  The  trail  leads  along  the  S. 
shore  of  the  lake  to  (15  min.)  Ase-ga-hama,  where  a  new  tem- 
ple,  the  Tachikir-no-Kwanrum^  overlooks  the  lake  and  commem- 
orates  the  original  temple  destroyed  b-j  WieWidaYv^  ItomATcm- 


DraQon' s-Head.  YUMOTO  16,  BmUe,    301 

Uxirzan.  From  the  summit  of  the  Aseffota  Pass  the  eye  sweeps 
over  a  magnificent  stretch  of  forest-clad  mts.  and  verdure- 
choked  valleys.  The  entire  region  is  primeval  and  spectacular. 
The  highest  part  of  the  mine  (discovered  in  1610)  stands  4400 
ft.  above  sea-level,  the  office  being  in  a  valley  2000  ft.  below, 
at  the  upper  end  of  the  village.  About  7000  men  are  employed. 
The  copper  used  in  the  NiUso  and  Shiba  mausolea  is  said  to 
have  come  from  this  locality.  The  4  chief  mines  are  the 
Honzariy  Arihif  KotaJdy  and  the  Tsudo.  The  ore  is  referred  to 
at  p.  cxlix.  A  permit  must  be  obtained  to  inspect  the  mines  — 
which  are  owned  and  operated  by  the  Furukawa  Mining  Co.^ 
Yaesu-chOy  Kojimachi-ku,  TokyS. 

YuMOTo  Village  and  Lake  with  hot  sulphur  springs  and 
baths,  7  M.  from  Chuzenji  and  640  ft.  higher,  constitute  a 
popular  excursion.  The  good  road  affords  delightful  scenery 
and  passes  two  of  the  finest  waterfalls  in  Japan.  A  leisurely 
walker  can  compass  the  outward  trip  in  3  lu^.  with  time  to 
spare.  Basha  (p.  xci)  leave  twice  daily  (2  hrs.;  return  in  J 
hr.  less)  from  a  point  near  the  hotel  (fare,  60  sen).  A  boat  can 
be  taken  from  the  hotel  to  (3  M. ;  1  hr. ;  60  sen)  Shobvr-no-hama, 
and  the  remaining  4  M.  done  on  foot.  The  highroad  leads 
through  the  village  and  along  the  E.  shore  of  the  lake  (beguil- 
ing views).  For  a  mile  or  more  it  passes  beneath  a  veritable 
^reen  tunnel  of  splendid  birch,  maple,  and  chestnut  trees,  and 
18  flanked  by  semi-tropical  bungalows.  Wild  flowers  abound. 
A  leisurely  stroll  of  1  hr.  brings  one  to  Shobu^no-hama^  a  non- 
descript fishing-hamlet  at  the  edge  of  the  lake.  A  few  min. 
beyond  (left)  is  the  Trout  Hatchery ^  prettily  situated  amidst 
tall  trees  and  near  a  rivulet  called  Jikoku-no-kawa  CKell 
Riv^r  0-  The  5  pools  are  connected  by  sluices  down  which  the 
larger  fish  are  permitted  to  run  to  a  big  circular  pond  almost 
choked  with  rainbow,  and  other  species  of  trout.  Just  beyond 
this  tiny  settlement  and  the  relay  station  with  its  many  pack- 
animals,  is  the  lovely  Ryuzu-no-taki  ('Draeon's-Head  Cas- 
cade *)  which  roars  and  rushes  down  hundreds  of  feet  of  rocky 
incline  and  forms  one  of  the  finest  scenic  gems  of  the  region. 
At  the  foot  of  the  steep  slope,  the  churning  waters  hurl  them- 
selves against  a  huge  boulder  which  dividfes  them  and  sends 
them  seething  onward  in  two  streams,  between  high  rocks. 
A  byway  diverges  from  the  main  road  and  continues  (i  M.) 
along  the  cascade  to  its  head,  before  rejoining  the  main  road. 
Midway  up,  the  stream  is  50-60  ft.  wide,  and  the  great  volume 
of  water,  leaping  down  the  sharp  slope  in  a  transport  of  passion, 
is  extraordinarily  impressive. 

The  well-traveled  road  now  winds  over  an  incline  called 
Jigokvrzakay  and  Hell  River,  whence  it  derives  its  name, 
plunges  down  a  gorge  at  the  right.  A  lovely  wooded  stretch  is 
crossed  before  one  emerges  (about  If  hrs.  from  Chuzeii\\^o\iV3bfc 
^d  battlefield  of  Senjo^a-haray  a  wide  meadow  ciosa^  Vj 


302    Route  16.  YUMOTO  Yumdto  Lake. 

running  streams,  surrounded  by  green  mts.,  and  dotted  here 
and  there  with  blasted  trees.  The  sanguinary  battle  fought  on 
thk  upland  plain  in  1389  between  the  partisans  of  the  AshikoQa 
sh6gun,  YoshimitsUt  and  the  troops  of  the  Mikado  of  the 
Southern  Dynasty,  was  followed  by  the  rout  of  the  army  at 
Kyoto  and  the  dissolution  of  the  scnism  which  for  56  yrs.  had 
divided  the  coimtry  into  two  hostile  camps.  A  good  view  is 
had,  at  the  right,  of  the  lordly  Nantai-zan^  which  here  is  seen 
to  be  much  less  symmetrical  than  when  viewed  from  Chuzenji. 
O-managOy  K(Mnanago,  and  Taro-zan  form  a  part  of  the  valley- 
wall,  which  is  marked  at  the  far  left  by  the  adorable  Yvrno- 
takif  from  this  distance  looking  like  a  thin  white  line  against 
ti^e  green.  Overshadowing  it  at  the  left  is  the  somber  and 
treadierous  Shirane-san.  Near  the  center  of  the  meadow,  at 
the  foot  of  3  lofty  pines,  is  a  tiny  tea-house.  The  road  forks 
here,  the  trail  at  the  right  leading  (5  M.)  to  the  Niahizavxi 
Gold  Mine:  that  at  the  left  continues  to  the  base  of  the  hill, 
then  bears  to  the  left  before  climbing  the  slope.  A  by-path 
soon  descends  (left)  to  a  (5  min.)  tiny  dell  where  the  Yu-no- 
taki  ('hot-water  fall ')  can  be  seen  in  all  its  splendor.  A  love- 
Uer  sight  could  scarcely  be  imagined.  From  a  point  200  or 
more  ft.  up  a  green  and  shaded  slope,  there  glissades  swiftly 
but  with  wonderful  grace  a  thin  chute  of  snowy  foam  60  or 
more  ft.  wide,  6  inches  thick,  and  resembling  crinkly  silk 
crape.  The  angle  is  about  50  degrees,  and  the  smooth  runway 
is  picked  out  here  and  there  with  trifling  irregularities  —  hum- 
mocks and  indentations  —  which  the  descending  water  finds 
and  converts  into  outspread  fans  and  other  alluring  figures. 
Clouds  of  cool  swirling  mist  fill  the  echoing  dell  and  impart  a 
delicious  freshness  to  it.  The  wild  beauty  of  the  sequestered 
spot  is  inexpressibly  charming.  The  water  is  the  overflow  of 
Lake  Yumoto  ('Source  of  the  Waters'),  and  after  passing  this 
point  it  goes  to  the  aforementioned  Dragon's-Head  Cascade. 
By  following  the  zigzag  path  flanking  the  side  of  the  flume,  we 
soon  come  to  a  silent  lake  of  bewitching  beauty. 

Yumoto  Lake  (or  Y<urno-umi)^  which  stretches  from  the 
cataract  to  the  village  at  the  upper  end,  is  5100  ft.  above  the 
sea;  about  1  M.  long  by  J  m.  wide,  irregular  in  shape,  shallow, 
and  stocked  with  fat  salmon-trout  which  keep  as  far  away  as  is 
possible  from  the  pestiferous  steaming  sulphur  runnels  that 
trickle  into  the  water  below  the  village,  or  bubble  up  from  the 
lake-bed  there.  The  liveliest  imagination  could  scarcely  picture 
a  more  perfect  sheet  of  water.  Entirely  surrounded  by  green 
and  lofty  hills  that  hold  it  in  a  loving  embrace;  flanked  on  all 
sides  by  giant  trees,  some  of  them  lightning-splintered,  others 
fire-charred,  and  most  of  them  dark  and  somber,  and  which 
seem  never  to  tire  of  ghmpsing  their  own  graceful  shapes  in  the 
blue-green  waters;  it  is  exactly  the  sort  of  lake  that  fits  a 
painted    birch-bark    canoe  wil\i  a  «!\eii\.,  «^«s:VKv>  softly- 


FROM  YUMOTO  TO  IKAO       16,  Rauie.    303 

paddling  Indian  in  one  end,  and  a  broad-antlered  dead  buck 
m  the  other,  moving  noiselessly  through  the  lengthening  shad- 
ows of  eventide  to  some  quiet  tepee  ami  camp-firc  on  a  near-by 
shore.  The  polished  surface  of  the  tranquil  waters  reflects 
every  surrounding  object  like  a  magic  crystal,  and  the  broad 
road  which  winds  along  the  right  (E.)  shore,  beneath  giant 
trees,  seems  to  lead  not  to  Yumoto,  but  to  Elysium, 

The  Village  consists  of  a  small  hotel  (Nanma;  open  from 
April  1  to  Nov.  30;  ¥5  a  day  and  upward;  English  spoken), 
several  inns  (Kama-ya/ eto.f  ¥2.50),  and  bath-houses  that 
cluster  near  the  upper  end  of  the  lake  in  a  horseshoe  depression 
overshadowed  by  lofty  hills.  From  many  holes  in  these  hills, 
inping-hot  streams  of  stenchful,  sulphurous  water  bubble  and 
spurt,  and  indicate  the  presence  of  internal  fires.  The  waters 
are  said  to  be  efficacious  in  rheumatic  ailments,  and  many 
natives  repair  hither  in  season  to  bathe  in  them.  Several 
times  during  the  long,  restful  days  men  and  women  foregather 
at  the  slatted  bath-houses,  disrobe  to  the  last  stitch,  stew 
themselves  together  in  the  malodorous,  yellow-tinted  liquid; 
sit  on  the  edge  of  the  pools  to  dry,  and  exchange  gossip;  then 
parboil  again.  Bamboo  pipes  admit  the  steaming  water  into 
the  hotel  baths  (free)  side  by  side  with  other  pipes  that  bring 
ice-cold  water  from  the  same  hills.  A  license  (50  sen  ;  obtain- 
able through  the  hotel  manager)  is  necessary  before  one  can 
fish  in  the  lake.  The  neighborhood  affords  many  pretty 
walks;  a  list  of  the  most  popular  ones,  with  distance^,  time 
required,  etc.,  is  posted  in  the  hotel  lobby.  Kirigome^  a  silent 
tarn  in  the  mt.  fastness,  1  hr.  to  the  N.  and  5600  ft.  above  the 
sea,  is  pretty.  From  a  near-by  ridge  (40  min.)  the  view  in- 
cludes the  Shidbara  Range  and  Bandai  San.  Hence  to  the 
Nishizawa  Gold  Mine  (follow  the  road  across  the  flat  behind 
Yumoto  and  cross  the  ridge  at  the  right)  is  about  1  hr.  Lake 
Suganuma,  a  popular  all-day  excursion,  can  be  included  in  the 
trip  to  Ikao.  The  display  of  maples  on  the  hills  behind  Yumoto 
is  gorgeous  in  late  Oct.  and  early  Nov.  On  a  fine  day  in  spring 
or  autumn  the  walk  hence,  through  Chuzenji  to  Nikko,  is 
delightful. 

1 6.  From  Yumoto  via  the  Konsei  Pass  to  Ikao. 

51  M.  Impracticable  for  jinriki  or  horse.  The  traveler  will 

do  well  to  start  in  the  early  morning,  when  fresh,  as  the  humid 

heat  of  the  forest  in  mid-morning  is  wearisome.  The  trail  up 

to  the  pass  (4  M.;  2 J  hrs.  should  be  allowed)  is  tree-strewn, 

blind  in  places,  and  apt  to  be  washed  out,  and  as  it  is  easy  to 

lose,  a  guide  (the  only  stretch  where  one  is  necessary)  should 

be  employed.  It  is  practically  impassable  from  early  Nov.  to 

late  March,  and  should  not  be  attempted. 

While  some  travelers  engage  a  pnde  (¥4  a  day  and  expense^  oAi  l^\k!kX» 
fSar  the  entire  journey,  an  economically  disposed  and  aeU-TCiliant  vedL«iiki6ttD. 


304    Route  16.       THE  KONSEI  PASS  Shirtme-8an. 

can  tore  conaiderable  by  hiring  a  paok-coolie  (who  acts  as  guide)  at  Yumoto 
0^1.50  is  amjple)  and  sending  him  back  from  (11  M.  down-grade  from  the 
pass)  Higashi  Ogawa.  Dunng  the  summer  months  certain  fish-peddlers 
(bright-eyed,  happy  boys)  GN>me  over  the  pass  from  the  lakes  beyond,  and 
after  dispoinng  of  their  fish  in  Yumoto,  return  empty-handed.  They  au^e  usu- 
ally very  willmg  to  earn  a  trifle  by  carrying  a  traveler's  pack,  and  they  will 
be  found  even  cheaper  than  a  regular  coolie.  A  jinriki  or  a  coolie  can  always 
be  had  from  Higashi  Ogawa  to  Numata,  whence  a  tramway  runs  to  Sbibu- 
kawa  and  connects  with  that  to  Ikao.  Before  leaving  Yumoto,  question  the 
hotel  manager  about  the  state  of  the  roads. 

The  Konsei'toge  is  visible  at  the  N.W.  of  Yumoto.  At  the 
left  stands  a  craggy  peak  known  as  Mae-  (front)  Shiraney  over 
which  one  must  climb  to  make  the  ascent  (8800  ft. ;  5  hrs. ;  8  hrs. 
for  the  roughish  round  trip;  guide  necessary)  of  Shirane-sam 
the  recently  active  volcano  behind  and  beyond  it.  —  The  road 
leads  up  the  main  st.,  behind  the  hotel,  then  crosses  a  sedgy 
marsh  to  a  rising  slope  where  delicious  wild  strawberries 
(ichigo)  ripen  in  July.  It  soon  enters  a  forest  of  giant  pines, 
firs,  and  bamboos  which  arch  above  rock-strewn  gulches  and 
a  wild  tangle  of  huge  boulders  and  blasted  trees  that  have  been 
uprooted  and  whirled  down  the  mt.  side  during  the  annual 
floods.  Occasionally  the  trail  traverses  primevS  glades  fre- 
quented by  bears  in  winter.  The  trail  to  Mae-Shirane  branches 
off  at  the  left  before  the  foot  of  the  pass  (1  hr.  out  of  Yumoto) 
is  reached.  After  crossing  a  dry  river-bed  presenting  a  scene 
of  the  wildest  desolation,  the  trail  goes  up  stiffly;  the  last  mile 
is  the  most  difficult.  The  deserted  shrine  in  a  secluded  spot  in 
the  forest  at  the  right  of  the  trail  was  formerly  dedicated  to 
phallic  worship.  The  view  from  the  actual  saddle  (6770  ft.) 
is  inferior  to  the  splendid  panorama  (one  of  the  finest  in  N. 
Japan)  obtainable  from  a  higher  ledge  (10  min.  scramble) 
reached  by  a  half-hidden  trail  along  the  ridge  at  the  left.  Here 
a  magnificent  view  unfolds  itself.  A  glorious  retrospective 
vista  is  had  of  Yumoto  and  its  dimpling  lake;  the  battlefield  of 
Senjo-ga-hara;  Nantai-zan;  Lake  Chuzenji,  and  many  stretches 
of  the  road  traveled  on  the  upward  trip.  At  the  W.,  thousands 
of  square  miles  of  tumbled  mountains  and  rich  valley-land 
stretch  to  a  blue  horizon;  while  below  lie  three  lovely  blue- 
green  lakes  {Suganumay  5820  ft.;  Marunumay  4790  ft.;  and 
Ojirinumaj  4785  ft.)  sheltered  in  the  bosom  of  the  quiet  hills, 
and  with  polished  surfaces  that  reflect  every  color  that  tints 
their  sides.  The  forest  solitude  is  broken  only  by  the  occasional 
scream  of  an  eagle,  or  the  shrill  skirl  of  some  defiant,  high- 
circling  hawk.  The  sky-piercing  cone  of  Shirane-san  shoots 
up  at  the  left,  while  at  many  points  on  the  wooded  slopes  great 
blotches  of  pinkish-white  color  detach  themselves  from  the 
surrounding  green  and  advertise  the  presence  of  the  gorgeous 
Rhododendron  maximum  (shakunage).  — Retracing  our  steps  to 
the  actual  pass,  we  begin  the  long  zigzag  descent  over  an  excel- 
lent  road  to  (about  50  min.)  Suganum^y  or  Shimizu  (good  fish- 
Jng).  The  lakes  are  usually  leit  at  l^^  t\^\),W\>  the  ^estrian 


FROM  TOKYO  TO  AOMORI       17.  Rinde.    906 

with  time  to  spare,  and  who  wishes  to  see  more  of  them,  can  fol- 
low the  trail  around  their  upper  borders.  The  region  is  londy 
hot  grand  (and  safe),  and  it  reminds  one  strongly  of  eortain 
solitary  stretches  in  Maine  and  Upper  Canada.  Deer,  bear, 
and  minor  game  may  be  met  with  at  any  time.  The  night  can 
be  spent  at  Higashi  Ogawa  (2300  ft.),  but  before  agreeing  to 
lodge  in  a  room  at  the  Miyoshv-ya  Inrty  one  should  ask  the 
price  of  eversrthing.  Beyond  this  point  the  valley  is  cultivated 
and  thickly  settled.  Near  (9  M.)  Okkai,  a  tributary  of  the 
Katashina-gawa  races  between  steep  porphyritic  walls  and 
forms  numerous  cascades.  From  the  top  of  the  KuryQ  Pass 
the  glorious  view  includes  Haruna-san,  Asama-yama,  and 
numerous  other  peaks.  Beyond  the  nondescript  town  of 
(5  M.)  Takahira  the  road  takes  on  a  dull  aspect,  and  as  jin- 
ri]ds  are  available,  one  may  wish  to  ride  the  remaining  5i  M. 
to  Numata  (Inn:  Marusugi,  ¥2.50),  on  an  upland  plain  over- 
lo<^ng  the  valleys  of  the  Katashina  and  the  Tone  Rivers, 
rhe  tram-cars  (frequent  intervals)  which  run  hence  to  (11  M. 
^bukawa)  traverse  the  valley  of  the  Tone-gawa.  ikao  is 
nentioned  in  Rte.  7,  p.  85. 

17.  From  Tdkyd  vit  Mito,  Sendai,  Matsushlma,  and 
Morioka  to  Aomori  (Yezo  Island). 

fStmn,  and  Tohoku  Main  (Nortb-Eastem)  Line  of  the  Imperial  Go?*t  R^ 

To  Mito,  73  M.  Several  trains  daily,  in  3  hrs.;  fare,  ¥2.85,  1st  el.;  ¥1.71, 
2d  d.  To  Sendai,  226  M.  in  7  hrs.;  fare,  ¥6.75,  Ist  cl.;  ¥4.05,  2d  cl.  To 
Matauahima,  240  M.  in  8  hrs.;  fare,  ¥7.03,  1st  cl.;  ¥4.22,  2d  cl.  To  Aomori, 
165  M.  in  18  hrs;  fare,  ¥11.10,  Ist  cl.;  ¥6.66,  2d  cl.  For  reference  to  sleep- 
ng-car  fare  and  extra-fare  express  trains  see  p.  Ixxzii.  The  rly.  from  MiU>  to 
\toanuma  runs  (through  the  provinces  of  Hitachi  and  Iwaki)  along  the  shore 
>f  the  Pacific  Ocean,  whence  its  name,  Nifumkaigan,  or  'Japan  seacoast,* 
Line.  At  Iwanuma,  in  Rikuzen  Province,  it  joins  the  Tdhoku  Main  Line 
md  continues  N.  through  Rikuzen  and  the  extensive  and  rich  province  of 
KikuchQ  before  entering  Mutsu  and  proceeding  to  its  terminus  on  Mutsu 
Bay,  facing  the  Tsugaru  Strait  —  beyond  which  is  Yeao  Island.  Anciently 
the  region  ('of  the  Eastern  Mountains')  was  called  the  Tosandd.  The 
news^  along  the  coast  are  magnificent.  Matsttahima,  with  its  singularly 
beautiful  islands,  is  ranked  as  one  of  the  'Three  Great  Sights'  of  Japan, 
ind  few  travelers  will  wish  to  omit  it.   Good  bento  at  several  of  the  stations. 

Tokyo  J  see  p.  109.  The  line  runs  out  through  the  tawdry 
juburbs  over  flat  but  rich  and  productive  lowland  where  hosts 
)f  vegetables  and  not  a  few  snails  (maimai)  and  turtles  (kame) 
ire  raised  for  the  metropolitan  markets.  The  prevalence  of 
ilim  steel  chimneys  on  the  ugly  factory  buildings  is  due  to 
;heir  comparative  safety  during  earthquakes.  Beyond  the 
vide  and  lively  Sumida-gawa  the  land  is  so  valuable  that  every 
nchis  cultivated  intensively;  the  fields  are  cut  into  round, 
iquare,  triangular,  and  ovaliform  plots,  divided  one  from  an- 
>ther  by  miniature  mud  causeways  carefully  smoothed  on  the 
ddes  and  just  wide  enough  at  the  crest  to  permit  the  passa|se 
>fi  the  farmers,  who  trot  to  and  fro  along  them,  cut  nuxasAiVlNi 
wmn  in  them,  or  work  tbigb-deep  in  the  sticky  black.  laxid  ol 


306    Rinde  17.  MITO 

the  lower  levels.  The  work  is  filthy  and  excessively  laborious, 
but  it  is  necessary  to  the  production  of  the  fields  of  waving 
rye,  wheat,  and  barley,  and  the  delicious  native  rice.  In  late 
spring  and  early  summer,  iris,  lotus,  and  other  gay  flowers  add 
charm.  The  region  is  splendidly  watered,  and  stately  junks 
with  tall,  white,  crinkly  cotton  sails  move  up  and  down  the 
wider  streams  and  form  beautiful  pictures  in  the  landscape. 
Soon  after  leaving  19  M.  AHko  Jet,,  the  Tone  River  is  crossed 
on  a  steel  bridge  3103  ft.  long.  The  immense  hedges  12-15  ft. 
high,  which  almost  surround  certain  of  the  farmsteads,  are 
aimed  to  protect  them  from  high  winds.  At  39  M.  Tsttchvuraf 
a  small  steamer  may  be  boarded  for  the  several  little  ports  on 
the  Kitaura  Lagoon,  The  river  on  the  near  side  of  the  town  is 
the  Sakura-garva;  that  on  the  far  side,  the  Kawauchv^awa. 
At  61  M.  Tomohe,  the  line  bears  to  the  left  and  runs  due  £.  t» 

73  M.  Mito  (Mito  Hotels  opposite  the  station,  ¥3;  Shibataya 
InUj  ¥2.50),  capital  of  Hitachi  Province  and  of  Ibaraki  Pre- 
fecture, was  formerlv  a  daimyo  stronghold  and  possesses  a 
ruinous  castle  built  by  the  Daijd  family  presumably  in  the 
14th  cent.  Edo  Michifusa  occupied  it  at  the  beginning  of  the 
15th  cent,  and  it  was  held  by  his  descendants  until  1590,  when 
it  passed  into  the  hands  of  the  Satake.  The  Tokugawa  shogun, 
leyasUf  installed  his  son  Nobuyoshi  therein  in  1600,  Yorinobu 
in  1603,  and  Yorifusa  in  1609.  The  latter  formed  the  branch 
of  the  powerful  Tokugawa  family  of  MitOy  one  of  the  three 
famous  families  from  which  a  shogun  could  be  chosen.  The 
old  3-storied  donjon  with  a  green  roof  is  an  interesting 
reminder  of  feudal  times;  as  are  also  the  magnificent  and 
patriarchal  cryptomerias  in  what  once  included  the  castle 
domain.  The  chief  attraction  of  the  clean  and  pretty  place  is 
the  Tokiwa  Kden,  or  Mito  Park,  at  the  W.  end  of  the  upper 
town.  Originally  a  private  garden  owned  by  Tokugarva 
Nariaki  (1800-60),  a  feudal  prince  of  Mito,  it  was  converted 
into  a  public  park  in  1873.  The  plum  blossoms  are  famed  for 
their  beauty,  and  in  March  they  attract  many  visitors  from 
Tokyo.  From  a  high  point  in  the  garden  one  commands  a 
splendid  view  over  the  lower  town,  the  shallow  Semba  Lake, 
(fine  lotus  blooms  in  Aug.)  and  the  environing  country.  The 
conspicuous  monument  was  inscribed  by  Nariukiy  who  played 
a  prominent  part  in  the  opening  of  Japan  to  foreigners. 

*  Nariaki  *   (says  Mr.  Papinot)  *  was  a  stanch  supporter  of  the  Imperial 
Restoration.    He  caused  his  samurai  to  study  military  art,  and  had  war 
instruments  made.    The  plausible  cause  of  these  preparations  was  the 
urgent  necessity  of  repuUdng  the  foreigners,  whose  ships  were  then  frequently 
entering  Japanese  waters.  The  Bahufu,  fearing  some  disguised  designs,  be- 
came suspicious,  and  in  1844,  Nariaki  and  his   adviser  Fujita  Tdko  were 
confined  to  Komagome  (Yedo).    They  were  liberated  only  when  Commodore 
Perrp* 8  amy ai  had  brought  the  anxiety  of  the  shogun' a  government  to  a  oU- 
max,  and  Nariaki  was  entrusted  with  the  preparations  for  the  defense  of  the 
country  (1^63).  He  then  ordered  the  ioTla  mTok^^  Bay  to  be  erected,  estab- 
JUabed  anenalB  in  Yedo,  Osaka,  etc.,  but  iouiid  a  &«t^^  ^tk^MKaiI!&8^.  c(a  qtiie*' 


MITO  17.  BouU.    807 

tioDS  reUting  to  foreigners,  in  ihe  person  of  It  Htumihe  Kamon  no  Kamip 
Bfinister.of  the  ahoqun.  This  statesman  believed  that  Japan  would  meet 
certain  failure  in  tiying  to  opi>ose  the  powers,  and  therefore  favored  a  poliev 
of  conciliation,  which  conviction  he  put  in  practice  by  signing  treaties  wita 
the  United  States,  Holland,  etc.  These  two  men  thus  became  the  leaders  of 
two  opposite  parties:  Nariaki  working  at  the  Imperial  Restoration  and  the 
expulsion  of  foreigners;  Naosuke  attempting  to  save  the  government  of  the 
ahdffun  and  to  open  Japan  to  external  commerce.  To  attain  his  ends, 
Nariaki  proposed  his  son  Keiki  as  successor  to  the  ahogun^  leaada  (1858), 
but  at  this  tmie  Naosuke  was  the  most  influential  and  he  obtained  the  elec- 
tion  of  lemochi  of  the  Kii  branch,  and  Nariaki  was  again  condemned  to 
■edusion.  The  Emperor  K6mei,  however,  had  secretly  written  to  Nariaki 
aobdng  him  to  bring  about  a  change  in  the  policy  of  the  ahdffun  and  to  expel 
the  barbarians.  This  mark  of  confidence  only  increased  the  hatred  of  the 
Mito  Clan  against  Naosuke,  who  was  assassinated  whilst  going  to  the 
Palace,  March,  1860.  Nariaki* s  triumph  was  short:  he  died  in  Sept.  of  the 
■ame  year.'  —  A  fine  bronze  monument  stands  in  Yokohama  to  the  memory 
of  Naosuke,  whose  castle  overlooks  Lake  Biwa. 

A  favorite  resort  of  the  Mito  folks  is  the  seaside  town  (7  M. 
rly.)  of  Oaraiy  where  there  are  some  fantastic  rocks  over  which 
the  ocean  breakers  dash  impetuously  and  form  beautiful  pic- 
tures. The  coast  is  noted  for  its  charm.  A  branch  rly.  runs 
N.W.  to  12  M.  Oto,  where  some  of  the  early  Mito  daimyds  are 
buried.  A  specialty  of  Mito  is  good  paper,  and  a  sweetmeat 
called  mushiyokan  made  of  red  beans  (an)  mixed  with  flour, 
sweetened,  and  filtered  through  a  cloth. 

Northward  from  Mito  the  rly.  traverses  a  splendidly  wooded 
country  marked  by  fine  groves  of  feathery  bamboos  and  slim 
voung  pine  trees.  Beguiling  sea  views  are  featiu'es  of  the  road 
beyond  85  M.  Omika,  where  the  coast  is  dotted  with  pictur- 
esque fishing-hamlets.  The  old  highroad  (good  for  motor-cars) 
which  follows  the  shore  is  flanked  on  both  sides  by  long  lines  of 
grotesque  pine  trees,  which  in  Japan  appear  to  love  the  prox- 
imity of  the  sea  and  the  soimd  of  the  waves  as  does  Cocos 
nucifera  of  the  lower  tropics.  Excellent  peaches,  pears,  and 
tobacco  are  raised  in  the  region.  A  number  of  tunnels  mark 
the  line  to  114  M.  Nakoso.  a  small  town  near  the  border  of 
Iwaki  Province,  celebratea  in  song  and  story  for  a  barrier 
which  anciently  separated  Kuhota^  in  Iwaki,  from  SekimotOy  in 
Hitachi.  All  travelers  were  halted  at  this  barrier  and  subjected 
to  a  searching  examination  before  being  allowed  to  pass.  125 
M.  Yumoto  has  hot  mineral  springs  and  is  2  M.  from  the  pro- 
lific Onoda  Coal  Mines.  —  The  hills  around  about  are  heavy 
with  coal,  and  many  of  the  neighboring  stations  have  chutes 
connected  directly  with  small  mines.  Vitrified  bricks  are  made 
in  the  vicinity. 

130  M.  Taira  (Inn:  Sumiyoshiyay  ¥2),  a  busy  little  town 
with  15,000  inhabs.,  is  the  E.  terminus  of  the  rly.  which 
diverges  left  and  rims  across  country  to  Koriyama  (p.  321). 
Anciently  it  was  an  important  castle  town,  and  perhapfl 
derives  its  name  from  the  fact  that  the  castle  (erected  in  the 
14th  cent.)  was  long  held  by  the  Iwaki^  a  powetixjl  laxs£\^ 
which  descended  from  the  historic  Taira,  —  Tlie  sea  NiftNi^ 


308    BotOe  17.  SENDAI 

beyond  are  charming,  and  are  nearly  always  supplemented  by 
groves  of  fantastic  pine  trees  standing  near  the  shore.  The 
pounding  of  the  surf  on  the  shingly  beaches  rises  above  the 
noise  of  the  train;  splendid  curling  breakers  rush  in  ceaselessly 
to  break  and  spread  like  sheets  of  glass  over  the  wide  sands. 
In  places,  wooded  promontories  come  down  to  dip  their  feet 
in  me  blue  waters,  and  in  the  small  ravines  which  gash  their 
sides  tidy  little  fishing-hamlets  snuggle  restfully.  In  the 
spring  and  summer  a  riot  of  red  and  ydlow  lilies,  delicate  blue 
hydrangeas,  harebells,  and  many  other  lovely  wild  flowers 
deck  the  slopes.  The  ringing  call  of  the  cicada  is  incessant, 
and  a  tropical  charm  pervades  the  region. 

183  M.  Nakamura  (Inn:  Mogamiyay  ¥2)  produces  fine  fruits 
and  mulberries  and  is  the  metropolis  for  several  pretty  hamlets 
that  overlook  the  near-by  sea.  Prominent  among  these  is 
(2 J  M.)  Haragama  (Inn:  Haragama  Hotels  ¥2.50),  and  (4  M.) 
Matsukawor-uray  on  a  big  lagoon  noted  for  its  charming  scenery. 
A  cape  called  Cormorant  Tail  is  specially  selected  by  the 
natives  for  its  beauty,  as  from  this  vantage-point  a  dozen 
exquisite  sea-scapes  studded  with  pine-clad  islets  are  visible. 
At  213  M.  Iwanuma  JcLy  a  town  just  over  the  line  in  Rikuzen 
Province,  the  JobanLine  loses  its  identity  and  merges  with  the 
North-Eastern  Line.  Travelers  bound  for  points  on  the  Ou 
Line  must  return  S.  to  Fukushima  (p.  322).  There  are  several 
native  inns  opposite  the  station.  The  traveler  who  may  have 
planned  to  make  Sendai  his  point  of  departure  for  the  lovely 
Matsushima  will  do  better  to  proceed  direct  to  that  place, 
where  the  hotel  accommodations  are  more  satisfactory. 

226  M.  Sendai  (217  M.  over  the  main  line),  capital  of 
Rikuzen  Province  and  of  Miyagi  Prefecture,  one  of  the  most 
important  cities  (pop.  100,000;  220  ft.  above  the  sea)  in  N. 
Japan,  though  picturesque  in  some  of  its  featiu'es,  contains 
but  little  of  interest  to  foreign  travelers. 

Hotels  (comp.  p.  xzix).  There  is  a  restaurant  upstairs  in  the  rly.  station 
where  good  rice,  eggs,  fish,  fried  potatoes,  hot  boiled  milk,  etc.,  caxi  be  had  at 
reasonable  prices.  The  IdxUau  Hotel  (an  inn)  stands  at  the  right  of  the 
station;  ¥3.50  and  upward.  The  Sendai  Hotel  (not  recommended)  stands 
opposite;  room  and  meals  in  a  so-called  foreign  style  from  ¥6  and  upward 
(or  as  much  as  the  proprietor  thinks  his  unfortunate  guest  will  pay).  The 
traveler  is  advised  to  reach  a  definite  agreement  before  the  room  is  engaged; 
to  ask  the  price  of  everything  in  advance;  to  scrutinize  every  item  in  the 
bill;  take  nothing  for  granted,  and  to  expect  no  attention  from  the  servants. 
Foreigners  are  looked  upon  as  strange  animals  with  only  money  to  recom- 
mend them.  The  hotel  charge  for  bringing  2  or  3  hand-bags  from  the  (100 
yards)  station  is  30-50  sen;  the  cost  of  a  jinriki  for  the  same  service  is  &-10 
sen.  —  A  line  of  runners  from  the  different  inns  stands  just  outside  the 
station  and  touts  for  guests. 

The  busiest  quarter  of  the  city  stretches  away  to  the  left  of 

the  station  and  extends  to  the  tiu'bulent  Hirose-gaioa,  which 

Bows  rapidly  past.    Beyond  this  is  the  castle  and  temples 

referred  to  below.  The  Permanent  Exhibit  (^Hakvbutsukwan), 

where  the  chief  products  of  Miyagi-keuMe^o\^«u\,^^\fnR«8^ 


Tansu.  SENDAI  17.  Boulei    809 

stands  in  a  park  along  with  the  Pref  eetural  Office,  under  a  mile 
from  the  station,  near  a  pretty  spring  known  locally  as  the 
Nonakorno-Shimizu.  One  of  the  specialties  of  the  city  is  the 
manufacture  of  numerous  small  articles  of  use  and  ornament, 
from  a  heavy  dark-brown  lignite  called  Jindai-boku  (lit., 
'mythological-age  wood  *)  found  in  quantities  in  the  vicinity; 
slabs  of  this  imperfectly  formed  coal  are  often  seen  stacked  in 
front  of  the  small  workshops  or  being  brought  in  on  the  backs 
of  horses.  The  chests  of  drawers  (tansu^)  seen  in  many  of  the 
shops  are  also  a  specialty;  some  are  known  to  the  trade  as 
Sendai  Cabinets;  prices  range  from  10  yen  (for  unseasoned  pine 
wood)  up  to  100  yen  for  good,  wellnseasoned  keyaki  chests 
elaborately  ornamented  with  chased  or  inlaid  metal  enrich- 
ments. As  prices  are  flexible  the  average  traveler  will  usually 
do  better  to  buy  such  articles  of  reputable  curio-dealers  in 
Yokohama,  Tokyo,  or  Kyoto.  The  iron  ornaments,  sometimes 
8-10  in.  in  diameter,  rust  unless  protected  by  a  coating  of  oil. 
—  Features  of  the  Sendai  architectiu'e  are  the  massive  roof 
ridges,  which  sometimes  carry  several  superimposed  layers  of 
heavy  tiles  accompanied  by  strikingly  elaborate  antefixes. 
Tliere  is  a  Catholic  Church  in  Minami-machidori,  and 
several  foreign  missions  elsewhere  in  the  city.  Sendai  was 
almost  annihilated  by  the  great  earthquake  of  1835,  and  it 
suffered  grievously  during  the  war"  for  the  Restoration.  The 
Penitentiary  is  one  of  the  largest  in  Japan. 

The  commanding  hill  on  which  the  Zuiho-den  (temple) 
stands  is  in  the  N.W.  quarter,  beyond  the  broad  and  swift 
Hirose-gawa  —  which  flows  between  high  banks  and  is  popular 
as  a  bathing-place.  Dense  groves  of  lofty  cryptomerias  nse  in 
serried,  gloomy  ranks  on  the  hillside,  and  impart  a  curiously 
medisBval  aspect.  The  approach  (after  crossing  the  foot- 
bridge) is  around  at  the  right  through  a  handsome  avenue  of 
splendid  cryptomerias.  The  incline  leads  up  first  to  a  tall,  flat 
memorial  slab  commemorating  the  hundred  or  more  soldiers 
who  fell  in  the  Satsuma  Rebellion.  Then  it  turns  up  left  to  a 
flight  of  moss-grown,  shaded  steps  recalling  the  great  ave- 
nues to  the  Nikko  mausolea.  The  front  gate  to  the  temple 
(left)  is  locked  and  weather-boarded;  the  key  to  the  small,  low 
gate  at  the  right  is  kept  by  the  custodian  who  lives  in  the  house 
at  the  right  of  the  monument  erected  (on  the  same  terrace)  by 
Date  Ma^amune  in  memory  of  the  thousand  Sendai  men  who 
died  in  the  war  for  the  Restoration.  The  inclosed  gate 
(Onarimon)  has  intricately  carved  keyaki  uprights  covered 
with  black  lacquer;  the  tie-  and  cross-beams  are  of  a  handsome 

^  The  tansu  (or  dansu)  is  an  important  article  of  furniture  in  eveiy 
Japanese  household.   Those  made  of  light  but  strong  Pavlownia  wood  an 
cooaidered  the  best.  In  the  very  exiiensive  ones  (sometimes  costing  tluNi- 
aands  of  yen)  gold  replaces  the  iron  trimmings.  The  value  of  a  hndsTa  craMbi^ 
ja  often  gauged  by  the  number  of  tansu  (filled  with  fine  eUk  oi  Yov^ 
'  hy,  or  given  to,  her. 


310    Route  17.  SBNDAI 

brown  wood  said  to  have  come  from  China,  minutely  carved 
and  backed  by  gilt  foil.  The  16-petal  chrysanthemum  crests 
are  retained  by  special  permission  of  the  Emperor.  The  maze 
of  polychromatic  sculptured  dragons,  flowers,  and  mythologi* 
cal  animals  is  inferior  to  similar  work  at  Shiba  Park  and  Nikko. 
The  shrine  at  the  left  contains  nothing  of  interest,  but  the 
green  bronze  bell  and  the  laver  just  within  the  entrance  are 
worth  looking  at.  At  the  top  of  the  steps  stands  the  Haiden, 
of  faded  black  lacquer  covered  with  tawdry  decorations.  The 
Karamon,  or  Chinese  Gate,  just  behind,  with  carvings  of 
dra^ons^  flowers,  tigers,  etc.,  is  sadly  neglected.  Still  farther 
behmd  is  the  Oku-no-dUy  with  some  polychromatic  sculptures 
in  wood  of  Dogs  of  Fo,  tennin,  phoemxes,  and  what-not.  The 
carved  panels  above  the  window  openings,  at  each  side  of  the 
door,  with  multi-colored  phoenixes  in  low  relief  surrounded  by 
foliated  flowers  and  wave  patterns,  are  good  examples  of  17th- 
cent.  work.  Though  attributed  to  Htdari  Jingoro,  they  are 
not  by  him.  Masamune^s  distinguishing  crest  is  seen  among 
ihe  carved  lotuses,  peonies,  and  chrysanthemums  of  the  lower 
panels.  Inside  the  building  (closed  to  all  who  do  not  brin^  a 
special  permit  from  Tokyo)  is  an  elaborate  reliquary  enshrm- 
ing  a  well-carved  figure  of  Masamune;  ranged  along  the  inner 
walls  are  some  excellently  preserved  painted  and  gilded  panels 
ascribed  to  Kano  Tanyu,  The  several  stone  monuments  in 
the  yard  stand  above  the  graves  of  Masamune' s  retainers  who 
killed  themselves  when  their  lord  and  master  died. 

Leaving  the  main  temple  we  cross  the  terrace  and  follow  the 

Eath  uphill  at  the  right  of  the  custodian's  house,  to  two  other 
uildings,  both  called  Oku-no-in  and  both  dating  from  1650; 
the  carvings  on  the  fagade  of  the  one  at  the  right  are  excellent. 
The  glittering  interior  is  conspicuous  for  an  elaborate  shrine 
with  a  seated  wood  image  of  Date  Tadamune,  son  of  Masamune 
and  a  special  favorite  of  the  shOgun,  lemits^i.  The  structure  is 
a  maze  of  gilt,  lustrous  black  lacquer,  richly  colored  carvings 
and  diapering,  with  a  double  roof  upheld  by  a  complicated 
system  of  highly  decorated  compound  brackets,  equal  in  some 
ways  to  the  best  work  at  Nikko.  The  tombs  at  the  right  and 
left  in  the  yard  are  those  of  retainers  who  committed  harakiri 
when  Masamune  died.  —  The  weather-beaten  edifice  at  the 
left  has  some  curious  griffins  at  the  four  comers  of  the  tiled 
roof;  the  sculptiu'es  of  the  exterior  have  been  almost  obUter- 
ated  by  the  hand  of  time.  The  interior  has  some  gilt  mortuary 
tablets  of  long-dead  notables,  and  a  strikingly  spectacular 
shrine  of  gold-lacquer  and  metal.  The  carved  doors  are  gems 
in  their  way.  —  The  entire  hilltop  is  covered  with  old  Buddhist 
graveyards. 

Date  Masamune  (b.  1566;  d.  1636)  succeeded  his  father  in  the  daimiate 

when  he  wat  18,  and  at  that  early  age  be^an  an  aggressive  campaign  against 

his  neighlxjn  in  an  effort  to  increase  \aB  doin^ivcva.  "^^  \^Q  he  had  made 

himaelt  maater  of  Aim  and  estabUaihed  bis  T^\de\ic^  va  \}Ki«  ^okaMialML 


Park  Hotel.  MATSUSHIMA  17.  Rovto.    811 

CMtle;  but  Hideyotki^  who  had  triumphed  over  the  Odawara  Hijdt  forced 
Mm  to  be  content  with  the  Yonetatoa  fief.  He  aided  with  Hideyoahi  in  hiB 
Korean  policy,  and  in  1600  Tokugawa  leyatu  ordered  him  to  make  war  on 
the  powerful  Uesugi  family,  which  he  did  succeesfully  and  received  therefor 
the  12  districts  formerly  possessed  by  than,  with  a  castle  at  Sendait  whieh 
then  became  his  residence.  He  was,  at  first,  favorable  to  the  introduction 
into  Japan  of  the  type  of  Christianity  broufi^t  by  the  Portuguese,  and  when 
the  BhCffun,  Hidetada,  persecuted  the  converts  at  TCky6  he  obtained  the 
vriease  of  Father  Luis  Sotelo  (a  Spanish  Franciscan  friar  who  came  to  Japan 
hi  1606  and  was  burned  alive  in  1624)  and  commissioned  him  to  accompany 
an  embassy  he  was  sending  to  the  Pope  and  to  the  King  of  Spain.  This,  and 
other  overt  aids  to  the  Christians,  brought  upon  him  the  mild  displeasure  of 
the  ahogun  and  caused  him  to  become  a  persecutor  of  them.  He  died  at  the 
age  of  70,  renowned  as  a  warrior,  a  diplomat,  a  protector  of  learning,  auod 
as  a  rich  and  powerful  daimyd.  His  son,  Date  Tadamunet  succeeded  him  in 
the  daimiate  of  Sendait  and  died  in  1658. 

Northward  from  Sendai  the  train  crosses  a  wide  and  fertile 
|dain  (one  of  the  finest  in  Japan),  level  as  a  floor  and  famous  for 
the  excellence  of  the  rice  grown  on  it.  At  231  M.  IiocJnri  Jet., 
a  branch  line  diverges  E.  to  4  M.  Shioaama.  Travelers  whose 
destination  is  Matsushima  can  reacn  Shiogama  to  better 
advantage  from  that  point,  and  make  it  the  object  of  a  pic- 
turesque trip  through  the  beautiful  bay. 

241  M.  Matsushima  Station  stands  2  M.  W.  of  the  town 
and  bay  of  the  same  name,  both  of  which  are  reached  easily 
over  a  good  road  in  J  hr.  (jinriki,  25  sen;  a  light  rly.  is  pro- 
jected). The  town  proper  overlooks  one  of  the  loveliest 
stretches  of  sea  in  Japan  and  is  usually  ranked  first  in  the 
'Three  Great  Sights.'  It  has  been  famed  for  its  beauty  since 
very  early  times,  perhaps  the  8th  cent.,  when  the  Ainu  were 
driven  northward  and  the  region  was  colonized  by  southern 
settlers.  Few  places  are  more  charmingly  situated,  and  a  more 
restful  place  could  scarcely  be  imagined.  The  morning,  the 
twilight,  and,  above  all,  the  moordit  views  of  the  graceful 
islets,  which  rise  like  beautiful  green  cameos  from  an  opales- 
cent sea,  would  take  the  nerve-strain  out  of  the  most  rebdlious 
subject. 

The  *Park  Hotel  (Tel.  address:  'Hotel,'  Matsushima),  a  handsome  new 
structure  combining  Japanese  charm  with  foreign  comfort,  occupies  a 
beautiful  site  overlooking  the  sea,  in  the  midst  of  a  pretty  landscape  garden. 
Fine  views  from  the  upper  floor.  Rates  from  ¥6  and  upward.  Am.  pi,,  accord- 
ing to  location  of  room.  Cheaper  in  the  Japanese  wing.  Baths  free.  The 
EngUsh-speaking  manager  will  help  the  traveler  plan  fishing-  and  hunting' 
trips,  cruises  through  the  islands  to  adjacent  points  on  the  coast,  etc. 
Apartments  can  be  engaged  through  the  Seiyoken  Hotel  (which  is  under  the 
same  management)  at  Tdky5. 

Matsu-shima  (Pine-island)  Bay  faces  the  Pacific  Ocean  in 
lat.  SS**  22'  W  N.,  and  in  long.  141**  5'  28"  E.,  is  8i  M.  from 
E.  to  W.  and  7i  from  N.  to  S.,  and  is  said  to  contain  808 
Islands.  The  region  is  often  referred  to  as  the  *808  islands/ 
albeit  there  are  but  about  300.  Of  these  120  are  of  more  or  less 
Importance,  and  about  80are  visible  on  the  trip  iTomMatmiskhna 
to  Shiogama.  Their  average  height  is  from  60  to  ^  IV,.,  VJSi<fc 
}agbeBt  being  about  300  ft.  AU  are  of  friable  volcasic  tola  \2tMaX 


312    R&ide  17.  MATSUSHIMA  The  Bay. 

once  formed  a  part  of  the  miainland;  the  constant  erosion  of 
wind  and  water  is  slowly  changing  the  shape  and  reduc- 
ing them,  as  if  Nature  were  dissatisfied  with  her  beautiful 
handiwork.  Many  of  the  islets  are  of  fantastic  shapes,  and  all 
bear  more  or  less  fanciful  names — *  Buddha's  Entry  into  Nir- 
vana'; *The  Twelve  Imperial  CJonsorts ';  'Never  Growing 
Old  Island,'  etc.   Many  are  named  after  local  gods;  the  sun, 
moon,  animals,  and  what-not.    Some  are  inhabited;  others 
(notably  Hashi-kaki-jimd)  have  tunnels  worn  through  them 
by  the  action  of  the  waves.    Some  are  bare,  but  many  are 
crowned  with  grotesque  pine  trees  which  stretch  their  gaimt 
arms  overhead  or  reach  them  down  along  their  precipitous 
sides.  When  the  wind  whips  and  sways  them,  they  look  almost 
human  as  they  thrash  about  as  if  appealing  for  help.   Like 
many  lovely  things  Matsushima  is  capricious,  and  is  subject 
to  moods.  The  Japanese  find  beauty  in  it  under  all  circum- 
stances; when  it  lies  soothed  and  hushed  under  golden  sunlight; 
when  wrappod  in  mist,  or  drenched  in  rain;  or  when  the  moon- 
light idealizes  it  and  imparts  an  almost  superhuman  beauty 
to  it.  On  a  perfect  day  in  June,  when  white-sailed  junks  drift 
lazily  over  the  translucent  water  and  blend  their  ghostly  shad- 
ows in  the  depths  with  those  of  the  billowy  galleons  that  ride 
majestically  across  the  airy  sea  above,  the  bay  seems  touched 
by  the  ma^c  hand  of  some  transcendent  genius,  and  its  beauty 
is  one  that  lingers  long  in  the  mind.  On  the  evening  of  such  a 
day,  when  the  rose  and  gold  of  a  gorgeous  sunset  gilds  the  sum- 
mits of  the  scores  of  islands  and  brings  the  painted  pines  into 
sharp  relief  against  the  gray-blue  eastern  sky,  the  scene  is 
enchanting.  The  surface  of  the  inner  bay  is  free  of  islands,  and 
is  often  streaked  with  crinkly  currents  and  tide-rips  that 
reflect  a  difiFerent  tint  for  every  moment  of  the  day,  but  always 
harmonizing  with  the  cloudscapes  —  now  gray  and  tender  and 
wistful,  now  blue  and  winsome  and  radiant.  The  native  artists 
are  said  to  love  the  region  best  when  soft,  deep,  clinging  snows 
cover  all  the  islete,  and  envelop  the  tortured  arms  of  the  fan- 
tastic pines  in  thick  white  rolls  like  cotton  batting.  The  shal- 
low bay  is  sometimes  sown  with  reed  mazes  planted  by  the 
fishermen  to  entrap  the  fish  that  swim  in  from  the  ocean.   The 
hotel  launch  takes  guests  to  the  prettiest  spots,  as  well  as  to 
the  high  places  where  one  may  command  vistas  of  the  finest 
stretches.    The  prefectural  government  of  Miyagi  is  spending 
¥350,000  to  improve  the  roads  and  beautify  the  locality,  and 
maple,  cherry,  and  pine  trees  are  being  planted  in  likely  places 
to  enhance  the  charm. 

A   popular    exciu'sion  is  to  (30  M.)    Kinkazan   ('Golden 

Flower  Mt.'),  a  quasi-sacred  island  on  the  sea  side  of  the 

Matstishima  group,  off  the  extreme  S.  point  of  the  protecting 

Toabima,  Peninsula.    This  trip  should  be  taken  in  the  hotd 

launch  in  preference  to  a  RmaHer  boa.\),  aa  \)a&  Osi^smftl  ^Mch 


J 


Kmkazan.  MATSUSHIMA'         17,  Route.    813 

sqmrates  the  island  from  the  mamland  can  be  rough  and 
decidedly  uncomfortable.  Travelers  may  wish  to  bear  in  mind 
that  tibe  innkeeper  at  Aikavxif  the  fishing-village  whence  small 
boats  put  out  for  Kinkazarif  customarily  charges  foreigners 
¥5  a  day  for  the  same  accommodations  given  to  Japanese  for 
i^.50;  also  that  the  boatmen  demand  50  sen  of  the  latter  and 
accept  10  sen  from  the  former.  Likewise  that  whosoever  sleeps 
on  the  island  must  lodge  in  the  temple,  and  that  although  ¥2 
is  ample  for  3  meals  and  a  bed,  the  covetous  priests  have  been 
known  to  demand  100  yen  of  foreigners.  When  accompanied 
by  some  one  from  the  hotel  such  extortions  are  not  attempted 

rn  the  stranger.  The  highest  point  of  the  island  is  1470  ft.; 
deer  are  considered  sacred.  The  regular  steamers  of  the 
Nippon  Yusan  Kaisha^s  Kohe-Otaru  Coast  Line  touch  fre- 
quently at  Oginohama  (277  M.  from  Yokohama;  fare,  ¥6,  Ist 
cl.),  N.  of  Aikawa,  and  the  company's  launch  lands  passengers 
at  (26  M.)  Shiogama,  There  is  a  wireless  telegraph  station  at 
the  lighthouse  at  the  S.  E.  end  of  Kinkazan,  whence  the  red 
and  white  light  which  flashes  alternately  every  10  seconds  is 
visible  19  M.  at  sea.  N.E.  of  Kinkazan  lies  the  great  Tuscarora 
Deep,  one  of  the  profoundest  sea-depressions  (5  M.  deep)  in 
the  world.  —  A  boatload  of  fishermen  who  were  swept  out  to 
sea  in  a  storm  off  Kinkazan  in  1912,  drifted  to  the  California 
coast,  near  San  Diego,  in  40  days,  and  added  weight  to  the 
belief  that  the  Japanese  visited  the  American  continent  many 
years  before  CJolumbus  dreamed  of  it.   (See  p.  cxlvi.) 

The  Temple  ofZuiganji  at  Matstishima  stands  at  the  far  end 
of  a  finely  shaded  avenue  of  lofty  cryptomerias  and  is  dedicated 
to  Date  Masamunej  its  founder.  His  sculptured  figure  (with 
one  eye)  may  be  seen  in  the  reliquary.  At  the  back  of  a  grove 
of  pine  trees  near  the  entrance  to  the  building  are  some  curious 
caves  patterned  after  the  rock-caves  of  India,  and  called 
Yezo^na  —  perhaps  from  the  belief  that  they  were  excavated 
by  the  Ainu  of  Yezo.  At  the  left  of  the  outer  temple  court  is 
another  cave  with  two  stone  slabs  and  figures  of  Kwannon 
incised  on  them.  The  old  iron  lantern  (left)  near  the  big  bronze 
Jizo  is  made  of  imported  iron,  ami  is  remarkably  preserved  to 
have  been  exposed  to  the  salt  air  for  upward  of  two  centuries. 
The  most  conspicuous  features  of  the  interior  of  the  temple, 
once  magnificent  but  now  sadly  faded,  are  the  panels  of  the 
inner  doors  painted  to  resemble  shell-work.  Shells  and  other 
marine  products  are  the  specialties  of  the  numerous  little  shops 
near  the  steamer  landing.  Several  of  the  small  islands  near  tne 
shore  are  linked  thereto  by  picturesque  bridges.  There  are  a 
number  of  pretty  walks  in  the  vicinity,  and  from  the  adjacent 
hills  one  can  get  splendid  panoramas  of  the  bay  and  its  multi- 
tude of  islands.  The  best  of  these  is  seen  from  Tomi-yama 
(3  M.  from  the  hotel;  jinriki  for  the  round  trip,  ¥1),  at  tbfe\ftl\. 
of  the  town  as  we  face  the  sea.  The  last  part  of  the  cUisSb  m\>aX» 


314    Route  17.  '     SHIOGAMA 

be  made  on  foot.  The  Taik^i  Temple  on  the  summit  is  unin- 
teresting, but  Hie  view  from  it  is  delightful.  A  smaller  hill, 
Shin-Tomi-yamaj  10  min.  walk  from  the  hotel,  also  affords 
wide  view.  The  best  of  the  near-by  excursions  is  to  the  pic- 
turesque and  some-time  popular  port  of  (5  M.) 

Shiogama.  The  hotel  management  will  plan  a  sailing  ex- 
cursion, and  this  will  prove  the  best  way  to  see  the  attractive 
shore  and  the  reaches  of  the  inner  bay.  With  a  gentle  breeze 
and  a  blue  sky  such  a  trip  down  the  bay  is  delightful.  Facing 
the  landing,  near  the  rly.  station  at  Shiogama,  are  several  inns 
(Shiogama;  Yebi,  and  others;  all  in  the  native  style;  ¥2. 50  and 
upward).  An  inn  popular  with  the  better-class  natives  is  the 
Shogardf  the  one-time  dwelling  of  a  daimyo,  on  a  hill  10  min. 
to  the  right  of  the  landing;  Japanese  beds  with  semi-foreign 
food,  from  ¥4  a  day. 

The  Shiagama-jinja^  a  Shinto  shrine  in  a  fine  situation  amid  towering 
OTsrptomerias  and  other  trees  (follow  the  main  st.  at  the  left  of  the  S.S. 
Umding  to  a  big  torii),  stands  on  a  lofty  terrace  reached  by  199  steps  and  has 
Bome  good  bronzes  in  the  outer  court.  The  huge  laver  upheld  by  4  crouching 
demons  is  noteworthy.  The  unattractive  iron  lantern  in  the  2d  court  is  more 
than  a  hundred  years  old.  Its  unusually  ugly,  squat  counterpart,  on  a 
pedestal  at  the  right  of  the  temple  entrance,  is  a  curious  relic,  made  of  iron 
said  to  have  come  from  India  and  to  have  been  presented  to  the  shrine  in 
1187  by  Izumi  Saburo  {ox  Fujiwara  Tadahira,  3d  son  of  Hidehira).  The 
priests  are  emphatic  in  their  statement  that  the  relic  is  original.  Metallur- 
gists have  yet  to  explain  its  remarkable  preservation.  The  lantern  at  the 
left  is  a  copy  of  the  above.  The  quaint  old  cherry  tree  at  the  right,  the 
Shiogamasakura,  is  said  to  be  400  yrs.  old.  The  stone  sun-dial  incised  with 
Roman  letters  dates  from  1783.  The  shrine  was  founded  by  Date  Maaamtme 
and  is  dedicated  to  the  ancient  deity  referred  to  below. 

Leaving  the  temple  grounds  by  the  path  at  the  right,  descending  a  series 
of  steps  and  turning  again  to  the  right,  we  pass  beneath  a  big  stone  torii, 
cross  the  main  street,  and  come  to  a  small  and  tawdry  structure  called  Karnes 
no-Yashiro,  or  Iron  Pot  Shrine.  Within  a  double  inclosure  at  the  left  (fee, 
1  sen)  are  4  rusted  iron  cauldrons  about  1  ft.  high,  5  ft.  in  diameter,  and  said 
to  be  the  original  vats  (kama,  or  gama)  in  which  (more  than  a  millennium 
ago)  the  first  salt  (shio,  or  shiwo)  was  evaporated  from  sea-water  —  a  state- 
ment which  many  travelers  will  perhaps  wish  to  take  with  a  grain  of  the 
original  article!  A  legend  relates  that  a  famous  deity  once  used  to  make  salt 
here  in  7  such  pans,  which  he  secured  from  the  Riugu-jd,  a  beautiful  castle 
at  the  bottom  of  the  sea.  Thieves  came  by  night,  and  endeavored  to  carry 
tiiem  o£F  in  a  boat,  but  barking  dogs  gave  warning  to  the  god.  He  said  that 
as  the  pans  had  come  from  the  bottom  of  the  sea,  they  should  return  thiUier; 
whereupon  he  raised  a  great  storm  that  overwhelmed  the  robbers  and  their 
loot.  The  entrance  tickets  are  usually  retained  by  pilgrims  as  evidence  that 
they  have  seen  the  wonderful  pans  that  remain. 

NoRTHWAKD  FROM  Matbushima  the  line  runs  far  from  the 
sea  over  a  pleasing  and  productive  country  marked  by  many 
fantastic  pine  trees;  soon  we  leave  Rikuzen  Province  and  enter 
the  wide  and  rich  Rikuchti,  anciently  one  of  the  greatest  fiefs 
in  Old  Japan.  282  M.  Ichinoseki  (Inn:  Ishibashi,  ¥2.  50),  in  a 
pretty  valley  drained  by  the  Iwai  River ^  was  until  1671  the 
residence  of  Date  MunekatsUj  a  son  of  Date  Masamune.  From 
1695  to  1868  it  was  the  chosen  retreat  of  the  powerful  Tamura 
family.  For  many  miles  the  rly.  follows  the  valley  of  the 
iiaporttmt  Kitakami  River ^  which  x\s%a  m  \ika  Natiosfti^ur? 


Yo8hit8une.     CHUSONJI  MONASTERY     17.  Route,    816 

Mt8.y  flows  past  Moriokaf  Hanamakif  and  Mizu&awai  —  serv- 
ing as  a  fluvial  highway  between  these  and  other  towns,  — 
then,  after  traversing  Rikuzen  Province,  empties  (after  a  run 
of  about  175  M.)  into  the  sea  at  Ishinomaki  (near  Matsushima), 
When  it  overflows  its  banks,  the  ambitious  fishermen  take 
great  scoop-nets  which  they  push  before  them  and  comb  the 
submerged  land  for  small  fish  and  eels.  Considerable  hemp 
(asa)  is  grown  in  the  region,  the  stout  fibers  being  made  into 
Unen.  287  M.  Hiraizumi  is  recorded  in  history  as  the  place 
where  Fujvwara  Kiyokira  erected  (in  1094)  a  huge  castle  that 
was  occupied  by  his  descendants  until  1189,  when  they  were 
dispossessed  and  the  structure  razed.  A  relic  of  the  eaiiy  pros- 
perity of  the  place  is  the  widely  known  Chusonji  Monastery 
(IJ  M.  from  the  station;  jinnki,  15  sen),  founded  in  850  by 
JikakU'Daishi  and  made  prominent  by  Kiyokira  —  by  whom 
it  was  rebuilt  in  1105.  A  long  dynasty  of  princes  (who  now  lie 
buried  there)  aided  to  sustain  the  reputation  of  the  temple, 
whose  annexes  (many  of  which  were  burned  in  1334)  at  one 
time  numbered  40  and  were  presided  over  by  300  priests. 
Though  now  mere  shadows  of  former  greatness,  the  remaining 
buildmgs  —  the  Konjikirddy  or  Gk)lden  Temple,  the  KyodOj 
jetc.  —  are  revered  by  the  Japanese  for  their  enshrined  relics 
of  the  warrior  Yoskitsune  and  his  faithful  Benkei  who  died  near 
by.  Among  them  are  pictures  of  these  worthies;  BenkeVs 
sword;  some  excellently  carved  images  of  several  of  the  deities 
worshiped  by  the  Buddhists  of  the  Tendai  sect  (to  whom  the 
structures  belong);  and  some  handsome  and  well-preserved 
Buddhist  stUras,  The  one-time  splendid  decorations  of  the 
temples  have  succumbed  to  the  assaults  of  time  and  are  now 
devoid  of  beauty.  The  fine  cryptomeria  avenue  which  marks 
the  approach  to  the  main  shrine,  and  where  the  high  dignitaries 
of  ancient  times,  as  well  as  the  modern  traveler,  must  descend 
from  his  jinriki,  recalls  certain  of  the  superb  avenues  of  Nikko. 
A  short  distance  beyond  Hiraizumi  the  train  crosses  the 
Koromo  River,  celebrated  as  the  place  where  the  intrepid 
Yoskitsune  died  fighting.  The  larger  stream  at  the  right,  the 
Kitakami-gaway  reminds  American  travelers  of  the  Arkansas; 
many  miles  of  the  valley  land  is  devoted  to  rice-growing.  Some 
of  the  farmsteads  are  rendered  pictiu'esque  by  being  surrounded 
by  artificial  hedges  of  great  pine  trees.  The  nondescript  town 
of  298  M.  Mizusawa  was  for  many  years  the  seat  of  the  govern- 
ment (Ckinjufu)  of  the  great  Mutsu  Province,  which  during 
the  early  days  embraced  all  of  N.E.  Japan.  The  fine  fruit 
orchards  in  the  region  hereabout  were  grown  from  American 
trees.  The  Waga  River,  a  tributary  of  the  Kitakamiy  is  crossed 
just  before  reaching  309  M.  Kurosawajiri  —  a  shipping  point 
for  iron,  copper  ingots,  and  charcoal.  At  317  M.  Hanamaki^  a 
basha  meets  trains  to  convey  passengers  to  (9  M.)  a  ^owp  oi 
hot  spiings  (sluin  water)  up  the  Toyosawa  Vallev.  TYk&\oi\>'^ 


316    BotOe  17.  MORIOKA  Mi.  Iwaie. 

mts.  visible  at  the  right  (£.)  are  Rokkakuushi  and  Hayaehine; 
and  the  left,  Iwate-^ama,  Three  rivers  are  seen  to  blend  their 
waters  just  before  we  arrive  at  Morioka,  and  the  rly.  crosses 
the  Shizukuishi-gawa  at  its  junction  witn  the  Kitakami. 

339  M.  Morioka  (Inn:  Mvisu-kwan  and  several  others  near 
the  station;  all  from  ¥2.50  and  upward),  capital  of  RikuchQ 
Province  and  of  Iwate  Prefecture,  an  important  town  on  a 
tree-studded  plain  near  the  geograpnical  center  of  the  province, 
has  36,500  inhabs.,  a  Schoolof  Forestry,  a  number  of  weather- 
beaten  Buddhist  temples  (of  no  great  interest),  and  is  known 
for  its  fine  fruits  and  preserves.  Prominent  among  the  latter 
is  a  delicious  midzuame  flavored  with  grape  and  sold  in  boxes  at 
20  sen.  The  apples,  peaches,  pears,  quinces,  and  many  of  the 
fine  vegetables  are  of  trees  and  plants  of  American  origin. 
The  city  and  former  fief  of  its  daimyo  is  often  called  Nambu. 
After  having  defeated  Fujiwara  Yasuhira  in  1189,  the  mili- 
tant Yoritomo  divided  tJie  great  provinces  of  Mutsu  and  Dewa 
among  several  of  his  favorite  officers;  Nambu  Mitsuyoki  thus 
became  the  feudatory  of  5  districts;  in  1596  his  descendants 
built  the  castle  of  Morioka  wherein  their  successors  remained 
down  to  the  Restoration.  Morioka  is  often  made  the  starting- 
point  for  the  (18  M.)  Mt.  Iwate  (6,800  ft.)  or  GanjU-^an  (at 
the  N.W.),  known  to  botanists  for  its  beautiful  Alpine  plants. 
The  graceful,  conical  peak  recalls  that  of  Fuji.  Guides  and 
outfits  procurable  from  the  innkeeper. 

Morioka  came  into  considerable  prominence  June  15, 1896,  when  the  coast 
of  the  province  of  which  it  is  the  metropolis  received  the  full  and  unexpected 
force  of  one  of  the  greatest  tidal  waves  of  modern  times.  According  to  a 
published  (verbatim)  report  (by  a  Japanese) :  'This  dreadful  event  happened 
at  half-past  eight  o'clock  in  the  pitch-dark  night,  as  soon  as  the  people 
heard  a  sound  like  a  railway  is  coming,  the  great  waves  as  a  hill  about  one 
hundred  foot  hiegh  boiling  and  rolling  down  with  rapid  course  and  retired  in 
a  few  minute  repeating  its  violence  for  several  times,  and  washed  away  all 
the  seashore  villages,  with  the  peaples  and  the  houses  even  the  firms,  it  was 
so  furious  that  there'  were  few  men  escaped  but  exception  of  those  in  a  vil- 
lage who  was  fortunately  out  of  the  houses.  Its  damage  extends  more  than 
four  hundred  miles  over  Miyagi  Iwate,  and  Aomori  Prefecture  counting  the 
drowned  nearly  thirty  thousand  peoples  and  more,  mostly  in  Iwate  Prefec- 
ture, it  is  reported  about  twenty  three  thousand,  so  fine  villages  has  suddenly 
changed  like  a  wild  wet  plidn,  all  precious  jewels,  money,  and  clothes  were 
all  buried  under  the  mua  or  flowed  away  with  their  food.  The  peoples  who 
escaped  or  was  saved  from  this  danger  now  are  again  afflicting  of  great  lack- 
ing of  the  provisions  and  they  have  no  houses  to  shelter  them  from  the  rain 
and  no  clothes  to  wear.  Though  there  are  some  who  remainds  but  they  are 
too  young  to  work  or  too  old,  even  the  young  men  are  also  unable  to  work 
for  some  of  them  were  almost  severely  hurt  and  some  are  so  wearied  for  they 
were  in  water  for  a  long  while  with  out  an^  food.  The  place  appears  like  a 
field  after  battle,  the  muddy  corpse  painfully  lays  here  and  there,  the 
wounded  mothers  are  searching  for  theirs  children's  corpse  with  tears,  and 

f)all-looking  infants  are  crying  for  the  lose  of  their  parrants,  the  pleasant- 
ooking  houses  suddenly  changed  to  the  sorrowful  houses,  indeed  like  a  hell 
at  present.' . 

Northward  from  Morioka  the  rly.  crosses  a  superb  plain  on  a 

rising  gradient)  fine  hills  belted  with  somber  conifers  dot  the 

borizoa.  The  excellent  auto  road  \a  ^i^^  b^J  rows  of  stately 


MABECfil  RIVER        17.  RouU.    317 

pine  trees;  white  birches  are  conspicuous  features.  The  plain 
soon  merges  into  rugged  hills  through  whose  silent  vales  swift 
rivers  run,  and  above  which  lofty  mts.  brood  solemnly.  Near 
352  M.  Kdmaf  the  squat  cone  of  Himegamirdake  rises  at  the 
r^t  and  recalls  the  fussv  Asama-yama  near  Karuizawa.  The 
KUami-gawa  is  crossed  before  355  M.  Kawaguchi  is  reached, 
and  beyond  it  the  Yafuka-gawa.  The  valleys  hereabout  are 
beautifully  wooded,  and  considerable  tan-bark  is  shipped  from 
the  stations.  Nakayama  Tunnel,  bored  1593  ft.  through  the 
crest  of  the  Nakayama  Pass,  marks  the  dividing  line  between 
Rikuchu  and  the  northernmost  province  of  Mutsu,  as  well  as 
the  highest  point  on  the  line  between  Tokyo  and  Aomori.  The 
high  slopes  of  the  hillsides  hereabout  are  used  as  horse-breeding 
farms  (Australian  stallions)  by  the  War  Department.  The  line 
now  runs  downward  through  the  fine  valley  of  the  Mabechi 
River,  where  many  of  the  splendid  trees  (conifers  in  great 
variety,  cryptomerias,  Spanish  chestnuts,  birches,  lacquer- 
trees,  etc.)  for  which  Japan  is  known  grow  in  profusion.  In  the 
summer  the  dense  forests  are  festooned  with  climbing  wistaria, 
wild  grapes,  clematis,  spiraea,  hydrangea,  and  a  host  of  other 
flowers.  Many  timnels  and  many  rivers  are  features  of  the 
line.  Some  of  the  hillsides  are  cultivated  with  such  precision 
that  the  plots  look  as  if  they  had  been  raked  with  an  unmense 
comb. 

378  M.  Ichinohe  ('First  outpost')  was  anciently  the  site  of 
a  fortress  aimed  to  check  the  progress  southward  of  the  fighting 
Ainu,  Beyond  the  Torigoe  Tunnel  (3461  ft.  long)  we  get  wide 
and  beautiful  views  of  plains  and  mts.,  conspicuous  among  the 
latter  (right)  Sue-no-matsuyama  (lit.;  *  forever  pine  mt.'),  often 
referred  to  in  poetry  as  symbolical  of  eternal  affection.  On  the 
far  side  of  382  M.  Fukuoka,  the  line  traverses  a  lovely  region 
dotted  with  quaint  farmsteads,  pretty  orchards,  rounded  hills, 
and  productive  valleys.  Many  pollarded  mulberry  trees 
advertise  the  silk  industry,  while  the  numerous  bundles  of 
charcoal  awaiting  shipment  at  the  stations  explain  the  tiny 
huts  and  the  smoke  spirals  on  the  higher  mt.  slopes.  Tobacco 
is  raised  in  quantities.  394  M.  Sannohe  ('Third  outpost') 
was  from  1189  to  1597  the  residence  of  the  daimyos  of  the 
ancient  Nambu  District,  before  they  moved  to  Morioka.  The 
lofty  peak  at  the  right  is  Naguidake  (2600  ft.).  Many  planta- 
tions of  hops  and  flax  are  seen  as  we  proceed  northward.  The 
country  soon  takes  on  a  more  rugged  aspect.  Of  the  several 
rivers  which  wind  through  it,  the  most  conspicuous  is  the  now 
sluggish AfofeecAt-^atwi.  YromAO^M.. Shiriuchi  Jet.  the  Hachi" 
nohe  C Eighth  outpost')  Line  leads  E.  to  5  M.  Hachinohe  (Inn: 
Wakamatsu  Hotel,  ¥2.50)  on  the  coast.  The  country  is  now  but 
a  hundred  or  more  ft.  above  the  sea  and  as  level  as  a  table',  T\Qie 
is  the  great  staple.  At  the  far  edge  of  the  plain,  tVie  ctuiap\cA. 
-''^    give  way  to  hillocks  whose  un tilled  slopes  are  coNet^A 


318    Route  17.  AOMORI 

with  naked  pine  trees.  Beyond  413  M.  Furumaki  the  train 
crosses  the  Oirase  River  which  drains  Lake  Towada^  a  pretty 
mt.  lake  (7  sq.  M.)  1500  ft.  above  sea-level,  on  the  bordeivline 
between  Mutsu  and  Ugo  Provinces.  The  splendidly  watered, 
rolling  country  which  the  line  now  crosses  reminds  Americans 
of  a  section  of  Iowa;  droves  of  fat  cattle  (an  unusual  sight  in 
Japan)  browse  on  the  meadows  and  form  pleasing  pictures  to 
foreign  eyes.  Herds  of  horses  add  life  to  the  land  near  426  M. 
Numasaki,  where  the  marshv  shore  of  the  wide  Ogara  Lagoon 
bends  in  from  the  sea,  and  suggest  the  vast  wealth  which 
might  be  gathered  from  the  thousands  of  square  miles  of  splen- 
didbut  hitherto  unused  grazing-land  of  this  northern  region. 
The  prairie-like  country  continues  to  430  M.  OtsvtomOy  where 
the  soil  is  rich,  black,  and  deep;  where  hosts  of  morning- 
glories  deck  the  unfenced  pastures,  and  where  big  locust  trees 
recall  the  sunny  southland  of  the  United  States. 

439  M.  Noheji,  a  port  of  Uttle  consequence  at  the  8.E.  cor- 
ner of  Mutsu  Bay,  is  visible  just  over  the  rise  at  the  right, 
and  faces  a  strip  of  water  called  Noheji-wan,  Snownsheds  ana 
groves  of  somber  firs,  then  long  lines  of  other  evergreen  trees 
and  other  sheds,  dot  the  country  to  443  M.  Kanba^sawa,  a 
nondescript  station  in  an  idyllic  situation  whence  there  is  a 
beautiful  view  over  the  smiling  land  and  placid  water.  Long 
lines  of  whispering  pine  trees  flank  the  shore;  white-sailea 
-»junks  dot  the  bay;  the  winsome  blue  of  the  water  is  as  tender 
as  that  of  the  Ionian  Sea,  and  the  outlines  of  the  distant  hilb 
as  soft  as  those  of  Sicily  or  Greece.  450  M.  Kominato  is  the 
station  for  several  tidy  little  hamlets  tucked  away  on  tiny 
bays  with  crescent  shores.  The  distant  hills  which  shelter  the 
bay  make  the  water  as  calm  as  that  of  a  pond,  and  few  views 
in  Japan  are  more  pleasing  than  those  which  now  break  in 
succession  as  the  train  follo_ws  the  contour  of  the  shore. 
Directly  across  the  bay,  near  OmincUo,  is  a  naval  station  of  the 
War  Department,  and  pictures  taken  with  telephotographic 
lenses  are  inhibited.  456  M.  Asamushi  (Tookan  Hotel,  ¥2.50) 
has  hot  springs  and  is  a  favorite  suburban  resort  of  the  Aomori 
folks.  The  train  runs  on  a  sort  of  trestle  above  the  houses, 
many  of  which  have  clean  tin  roofs.  —  The  rly.  now  turns 
inland  (S.W.),  traverses  a  tunnel  cut  through  a  promontory 
leading  down  to  the  sea;  passes  Nonai  tunnel  and  station; 
crosses  the  Nonai  River;  runs  through  some  pretty  orchards 
and  the  subiu'ban  town  of  Uramachi;  and  stops  at  the  north- 
ernmost terminus  of  the  railways  on  the  main  island  of  Japan, 
1170  M.  from  their  southernmost  terminus  at  ShimonoseH. 

465  M.  Aomori  (or  Awomori),  in  Amnori-kenj  Mutsu  Prov- 
ince, has  48,000  inhabs.  and  stands  at  the  southernmost  point 
of  Mutsu  Bay  (often  called  Aomori-wan),  in  lat.  40**  50^  N.  and 
long,  140°  45^  E.  of  Greenwich.  The  scattered,  unpicturesque 
aflcT uninteresting  town  has  mmawaWy  m^^  ^\,t^^\» — \ikft  out- 


TOKYO  TO  THE  HOKKAIDO     18.  RaiUe.    ^19 

oome  oi  many  destructive  fires  —  and  it  covers  a  wide  area. 
The  mottled  Lacquer-ware  sold  in  the  shops  is  a  local  specialty 
and  is  known  as  Tsugaru^uri, 

Arrind.  At  the  rly.  restaurant  apstairs  in  the  station,  plain  but  whole- 
some  food  is  served  in  foreign  style  at  reasonable  prices.  The  Kagiya  Hotel, 
where  foreign  food  and  beds  are  to  be  had  from  ¥4.50  a  day  and  upwaid, 
stands  across  the  street  from  the  station.  Five  min.  to  the  left,  near  the 
dock  (jinriki,  10  sen),  is  the NcJeajima  Inn;  rooms  only,  ¥1.50;  for  2  pers., 
¥2;  native  food,  50-75  sen  a  meal. 

The  Steamer  Dock,  whence  ships  for  (60  M.)  Hakodate  and  Muroran 
d^Murt,  is  5  min.  beyond  the  station;  jinriki,  10  sen  (for  a  passenger,  or  aa 
many  pieces  of  hand-luggage  as  can  be  stowed  into  it) ;  trunks,  25  sen.  The 
Rly.  Co.  checks  baggage  through  to  all  points  in  Yezo,  and  in  such  cases 
makes  no  charge  for  transfers.  —  S^ips  of  the  marine  department  of  the 
Imperial  Gov't  Rlys.  ply  across  the  Tsugaru  Strait  to  Hakodate,  and  are 
olean,  comfortable,  ana  safe.  The  usual  ssoUng  time'  (consult  the  rly.  folder) 
is  11  A.M.,  Mid  Hakodate  is  reached  about  4  p.m.;  fare,  Ist  cl., ¥3.20:  2d  d., 
¥2.10,  both  exclusive  of  meals,  which  cost:  breakfast,  75  sen;  tiffin,  ¥1; 
dinner,  ¥1.  Japanese  meals,  50  sen.  Dishes  d  la  carte  ran^  from  5  to  50  sen. 
A  special  stateroom  (1st  cl.)  for  2  pers.  costs  ¥3  in  addition  to  the  fare  (2d 
eL,  ¥1.50;  sleeping-berth,  50  sen).  The  boats  (English  spoken)  are  rarely 
eiowded;  most  of  the  Japanese  go  2d  cl.,  and  the  Saloon  and  Ladies'  Waiting- 
Rooms  (1st  cl.)  afford  ample  lying-down  space  for  those  who  do  not  wish  a 
stateroom  (desirable  on  the  nijiht  trip).  At  Hakodate  passengers  with  their 
hig^ige  are  taken  from  the  ship  to  the  landing  free.  —  The  Nippon  Yusen 
KaisfM  runs  comfortable  boats  (English  spoken)  to  (110  M.)  Muroran. 
Aomori  is  left  usually  at  5  p.m.  and  Muroran  la  reached  in  the  early  morning. 
Fare,  1st  cl.,  ¥7  (which  includes  meals  and  a  private  cabin). 

Aomori  Bay  is  well  protected  by  the  mts.  which  almost  surround  it,  and 
the  deep  water  close  inshore  makes  the  harbor  one  of  the  best  in  Japan.  The 
lioe-fields  seen  in  places  are  among  the  northernmost  of  Japan,  since  the 
short  summers  and  long  cold  winters  of  Yeso  make  rice-growing  difficult 
there.  It  marks  the  northern  limit  of  the  range  of  the  pheasants,  monkeys, 
and  black  bears.  The  latter  are  replaced  in  Yezo  by  the  true  grizzly,  a  fierce 
monster  which  the  courageous  Ainu  attack  and  slay  with  skill.  Fogs  prevail 
over  the  bay  in  May,  June,  and  July;  while  the  N.W.  winds  of  Jan.-Mareh 
sometimes  blow  with  sufficient  force  to  make  the  channel  rough.  Deep  snows 
fall  in  Dec,  Jan.,  and  Feb. 

The  Tsugaru  Strait,  which  separates  the  main  island  of  Japan  from  Yeso, 
is  nearly  60  M.  long  from  E.  to  W.,  10  M.  wide  at  both  entrances  (the  nar- 
rowest parts),  and  about  30  M.  wide  within  them.  It  is  well  lighted  and 
there  are  no  difficulties  to  navigation.  A  strong  ocean  current  called  the 
Nakano-shiuH),  which  is  constantly  directed  from  the  Japan  Sea  to  the 
Pac^c  Ocean,  runs  through  the  strait,  in  the  direction  of  its  axis,  and  some- 
times kicks  up  a  choppy  sea  that  reminds  one  of  the  English  Channel.  Its 
velocity  is  usually  about  3  knots,  being  greatest  in  mid-channel.  Drift-ice 
is  not  unfrequently  encountered  in  the  winter  months,  and  fogs  occasionally 
retard  traffic  in  summer. 

i8.  From  Tokyo  vid  Utsunomiya,  Fukushima,  Yamagata,  and 

Akita  to  Aomori  (Hokkaido). 

North-Eastern,  and  Ou  Lines,  Imperial  Government  Railways. 

To  Nikko  (via   Utsunomiya  Jet.)  is  referred  to  in  Rte.  13.    At  139  M. 
KSriyama,  connections  are  made  with  the  new  cross-country  Une  to  Niigatat 
on  the  coast  of  the  Japan  Sea.    At  1G8  M.  Fukushima,  the  Ou  Line  di- 
verges to  the  W.,  but  the  main  tine  continues  N.  to  206  M.  Iwanuma  Jet., 
where  it  is  joined  by  the  J&ban  Line,  which  forms  the  subject  of  Rte.  17. 
Travelers  can  proceed  N.  to  Aomori  either  over  this  tine  or  over  the  Ou  Litte, 
bat  those  destined  for  Sendai  or  Matsushima  must  not  change  at  FukuaKitna. 
Between  Tokyo  and  Aomori  the  rly.  goes  from  Musashi  Province  \xj*o  iJbaA. 
giSbbaSea,  and  croeaea  Sbimotmike,  Iwaki,  Iwashiro,  Usen,  Ufto,  aud'^uXiBa 


320    Route  18.  SHIOBARA  Takahcaroryama. 

before  reaching  the  top  of  the  main  island.  Many  splendid  mts.,  some  of 
them  volcanic,  flank  the  sustainedly  interesting  and  picturesque  line,  which 
for  ek>me  distance  out  of  T5kyd  follows  the  old  Oshu-Kaido,  once  the  favor- 
ite highway  of  dainty 6  and  samurai  cavalcades.  A  few  of  the  former  87  post- 
stations  (Eki)  between  Yedo  and  Aomori  still  stand.  Beyond  Akita  splendid 
views  of  the  silent  Japan  Sea  are  had  from  the  train.  For  reference  to  sleep- 
ing-cars and  extra-fare  trains  see  p.  Ixxxiii.  Aomori  is  the  port  of  departure 
for  the  Hokkaido  (Yexo).   See  the  preceding  page.  , 

Tokyo  (see  p.  109).  For  the  first  few  miles  after  leaving  the 
tawdry  metropolitan  suburbs  the  rly.  runs  N.W.  over  a  flat 
country  where  much  of  the  garden-truck  sold  in  the  city  mar- 
kets is  raised.  The  lowlands  are  subject  to  overflows  during 
the  summer  rains.  From  16  M.  Omiya  Jet.  the  trend  is  due  N. 
through  a  number  of  unimportant  towns  to  48  M.  Oyama  Jet., 
where  the  branch  line  from  Takasdki,  on  the  Karuizawa  sec- 
tion of  the  Shin-etsu  Line  (Rte.  6),  comes  in  at  the  left  and 
continues  eastward  to  31  M.  Tomobe  Jet.  Henceforward  the 
gradient  slopes  gently  upward  over  a  better  country,  with 
the  fine  Nikko  Mts.  in  view.  65  M.  Utsunomiya  (472  ft.),  the 
point  of  departure  for  Nikko j  is  mentioned  in  detail  in  Rte.  13. 
From  Utsunomiya^  the  train  proceeds  N.  over  a  steadily  rising 
country  intensively  cultivated  and  flecked  here  and  there  with 
beautiful  flowering  trees.  Tobacco  is  a  conspicuous  feature  in 
the  landscape,  and  many  broad  fields  are  given  over  to  the 
raising  of  the  broad-leaved  taro  plant  (Caladium  Colocctsia; 
Jap.  imo  —  which  also  means  potato).  The  Negawa^  Inari, 
Tenjiny  and  Kinu  Rivers  are  crossed  before  73  M.  Hoshakuji 
is  reached,  and  the  intervening  country  is  rendered  picturesque 
by  the  many  big  undershot  water-wheels  which  aid  the  farmers 
to  irrigate  their  fields.  The  rivers  often  prove  bad  servants, 
and  are  dreaded  in  the  rainy  season.  The  black,  loamy  soil  is 
favorable  to  the  exacting  requirements  of  ginseng  (which  in 
a  ferruginous  soil  takes  on  a  reddish  tinge  that  lessens  its  value), 
and  at  certain  seasons  the  land  is  dotted  with  mats  or  thatched 
roofs  raised  about  3  ft.  above  the  plants  (comp.  Korea)  to  pro- 
tect them  from  a  too  ardent  sun.  A  great  variety  of  fine  trees 
thrive  in  the  region,  which  is  sentineled  by  lofty  mt.  peaks. 

92  M.  Nishi^Nasuno  (Inn:  YanuUoyay  ¥2)  is  the  usual  point 
of  departure  for  the  locally  celebrated  (13  M.)  SHroBARA 
Mineral  Springs  (jinriki  with  2  men,  ¥2.20;  hasha  for  6  per- 
sons and  luggage,  ¥3.60).  The  region  is  known  for  its  beautiful 
maples  and  is  popular  with  Japanese.  The  most  frequented  of 
the  several  resorts  is  Furumachi  (Inn:  Fv^en-ro,  etc.,  ¥2.50 
and  upward)  in  a  picturesque  setting,  amid  hot  springs,  fan- 
tastic rocks,  mts.  and  waterfalls.  About  5  M.  from  Furumachi 
is  ArayUj  whence  pilgrims  start  for  the  climb  up  (9  M.) 
Keieho-zan  (5880  ft.),  one  of  the  peaks  of  Takahara-yamay  in 
the  range  which  separates  Iwashiro  from  Shimotsuke  Province. 
The  ascent  occupies  a  long  tiresome  day  and  does  not  repay 
one  for  the  exertion.  —  A  good  'vie^i  oi  Wv^  Shiohara  Mts.  is 
had  from  95  M.  Higaahi'NamnOy^xA^Xft'&xs^^'ii^^ 


Bandaisan.  WAEAMATSU  18.  Route.    321 

from  NcLSUryama  (6300  ft.;  serious  eruption  in  1881)  at  the 
N.E.  end  of  the  short  ridge.  91  M.  Kuroiso  (Inn:  Tabakoya, 
¥2),  the  starting-point  for  the  (11  M.)  Nasu  Springs  (at  me 
base  of  the  active  volcano  of  Ndsu;  guide,  ¥1.50;  ascent  in  3 
hrs.),  also  marks  the  commencement  of  a  roughish  countiy  of 
steep  gradients,  brawling  rivers,  wide  curves,  and  tumbled  nills 
—  the  latter  densely  wooded.  Beyond  109  M.  ToyoharOy  the 
rly.  reaches  a  point  1423  ft.  above  the  sea,  the  highest  between 
Tokyo  and  Sendai.  The  train  now  enters  the  province  of 
Iwaki.  115  M.  Shirakavoa  (Inn:  Yanagv-ya^  ¥2),  1269  ft. 
above  sea-level,  was  formerly  the  seat  of  a  petty  daimyo  whose 
ruinous  castle  still  overlooKs  the  tidy  little  town.  The  Ahu- 
kuma  River  runs  past  the  upper  end  of  the  place  and  irrigates 
the  broad  paddy-fields  in  the  environs.  Good  peaches  are 
grown  in  the  vicinity  of  Yvbuhi  Statioriy  near  which  the  Im- 
perial Household  maintains  one  of  its  several  game  preserves. 
The  good  pike  which  traverses  the  region  is  sometimes  flanked 
for  miles  by  fantastic  pine  trees  in  imitation  of  the  splendid 
cryptomeria  avenues  of  Nikko. 

139  M.  Koriyama  (Inn:  Kimuror-yaj  ¥2),  known  for  its 
manufactures  of  fine  silken  stuffs,  is  the  point  of  departure  for 
the  Gan^tsu  Ldne,  which  runs  W.  through  beautiful  scenery  to 
Niigata  (Rte.  6,  p.  83). 

Several  trains  daily  in  about  6  hrs.  Fare  to  38  M.  Wakamatsu,  ¥1.60,  let 
d.;  96  sen,  2d;  to  112  M.  Niitau  ( Niigata),  ¥4.03,  Ist.  cl.;  ¥2.42,  2d.  Many 
of  the  intervening  towns  are  unimportant;  9  M.  Atami  has  locally  cele- 
brated hot  springs.  Near  16  M.  Yamagata  the  Kozakayama  Tunnel  (1816 
ft.  long)  is  one  of  the  many  which  pierce  the  lofty  mts.  of  the  region.  The 
Inawashiro  Lake  (10  by  10  M.)  affords  good  salmon-trout  fishing.  22  M. 
Inawashiro  town  (Inn:  Ise-^a,  ¥2)  is  the  usual  starting-point  for  the  ascent 
(dangerous)  of  the  dreaded  Bandai-san,  a  vicious  volcano  with  an  evil 
reputation,  near  the  N.  end  of  the  lake,  6000  ft.  above  sea-level.  The  inn- 
keeper will  procure  a  guide  for  ¥3  for  the  round  trip  —  a  hard  day's  work. 
Like  Aaama-^ama,  Bandaisan  is  not  to  be  trusted.  The  terrific  and  totally 
unexpected  eruption  of  July  15,  1888  (which  emanated  from  the  adjacent 
peak  called  Ko  or  little  Bandai),  destroyed  4  villages,  killed  461  persons, 
and  devastated  27  sq.  M.  of  territory. 

Wakamatsu,  or  'Young  Pine  Tree'  (Inn:  Shimizu-ya,  ¥2),  the  chief 
town  (803  ft.)  of  the  Aizu  District  (Iwashiro  Province;  Fukushima-ken), 
with  40,000  inhabs.,  was  formerly  called  Kurokawa,  and  possessed  a  castle 
built  by  the  Ashina  daimyos  —  from  whom  it  was  taken  by  Date  Masamune 
in  1589.  At  the  time  of  the  Restoration  the  powerful  Wakamatsu  Clan 
remained  faithful  to  the  shogun,  and  the  capture  (Nov.  6,  1868)  of  the  castle 
by  the  Imperial  army  closed  the  civil  war  in  Hondd.  Only  the  massive  walls 
of  the  structure  remain.  The  town  stands  near  the  E.  margin  of  a  wide 
plain  known  as  Aizu-laira,  7  M.  to  the  W.  of  Inawashiro  Lake.  Consider- 
able lacquer-ware  is  manufactured  for  export;  lacquer  trees  (  Unuhi-mo^; 
Rhus  vemicifera)  thrive  in  the  region,  and  their  product  (known  to  the  trade 
as  Aizu-^rushi) ,  along  with  the  Aizurrd,  or  vegetable-wax,  is  in  demand 
throughout  the  Empire.  Htgashi-yama,  a  pretty  waterinp-place  2  M.  to  the 
S.E.  (Inn:  Shintaki-ro,  ¥2),  in  a  densely^  wooded  ravme  through  which 
plunges  a  mt.  torrent,  contains  several  insipid,  odorless  springs  (122**  to  131" 
F.)  which  burst  from  the  volcanic  soil  and  are  led  through  bamboo  conduits 
into  the  bath-houses.  At  Hongo,  a  small  town  4  M.  to  the  S.W.,  some  porce- 
lain is  made.  The  mts.  which  surround  the  Aizu  plain  ate  Yoity  oind  xea^qbt 
tio.  —  Beyond  Wakamatsu  the  rly^  descends  through  a  chaximx^b  QO'^sXivy 
to  45  M.  ShitPokavKi,  thence  to  Niigata. 


322    Rmie  18.  FUKUSHIMA  ^ 

The  Taira  Line,  a  branch  r^.  forming  an  eastward  prolongation  of  the 
Gan-efou  line,  runs  from  KSriyijima  through  the  picturesque  vall^  of  the 
Nat8U%  River  to  52  M.  (fare,  ¥2.18,  1st  cl.;  ¥1.31,  2d  cl.)  Taira,  a  town  on 
the  coast  line  between  T6ky6  and  Iwanuma  (Rte.  17). 

Northward  from  Koriyama  the  main  line  bends  broadly  to 
the  left  and  traverses  a  mlly  district  where  sericulture  is  prac- 
ticed on  a  large  scale;  the  manufactured  silk  has  a  reputation 
for  quality.  154  M.  Nihonmatsu,  with  silk-mills,  is  one  of  the 
most  important  silk-producing  towns  in  the  region.  The 
ancient  and  now  ruinous  castle  was  built  in  the  16th  cent,  by 
Hatakeyama  Mitsuyasu,  but  his  descendants  were  dispossessed 
(in  1586)  by  the  militant  Date  Mdsamune.  Niwa  was  the  last 
of  the  daimyos  at  the  time  of  the  Restoration.  Onward  to  160 
M.  Matsukawa  the  rly.  threads  the  beautiful  valley  of  the 
Abukuma  River ,  with  charming  views.  Hills  hide  these  until 
we  emerge  beyond  the  Hiraishi  Tunnel,  whence  a  splendid 
panorama  opens  out  far  below  at  the  left.  Wide  paddy-fields 
and  mulberry  plantations  irrigated  by  the  Svjgawa  mark  the 
approach  to 

168  M.  Fukushima  Jet.  (pop.  43,000),  an  important  city  in 
the  prefecture  of  the  same  name,  in  a  pretty  valley  almost 
surrounded  by  perennially  green  hills.  The  small  Shinto  shrine 
behind  a  huge  granite  torii  in  the  N.E.  quarter  incloses  some 
sculptured  and  gaudily  decorated  wood  figures  of  Udaijin  and 
Sadaijin;  of  several  of  the  Gpds  of  Good  Luck,  and  a  medley 
of  bric-a-brac  not  usually  displayed  in  such  places.  The  eagle 
on  the  portico  is  boldly  sculptured.  The  quaint  carvings  on 
certain  of  the  tile-roofed  dwellings  of  the  city  impart  a  temple- 
like look  to  them.  Foreign  influence  is  a  negligible  quantity 
here,  and  the  native  life  retains  many  of  its  ancient  features. 
North-boimd  travelers  interested  in  the  scenery  of  the  Ou 
JAne,  may  elect  to  break  the  journey  here  and  board  one  of  the 
early  morning  trains  for  (302  M.)  Aomori  —  a  long  day's  ride. 
The  Fukushima  Hotel,  with  foreign  beds,  and  plain  but  whole- 
some foreign-style  food,  is  a  3-min.  walk  from  the  station  (2 
min.  up  the  main  st,,  then  turn  left;  j'inriki,  10  sen) ;  room,  ¥1; 
meals,  ¥1  each  (upper  rooms  best;  demand  a  mosquito-net). 
Several  native  inns  (the  Fuji-kwan;  Fukushima-kwan,  etc., 
¥2.50)  stand  near  the  station;  the  Fukuyo-kwan  is  about  i  M. 
distant,  near  the  P.O.  The  suburban  tramway  runs  to  a  num- 
ber of  towns  of  no  interest  to  foreigners.  Foreigners  are,  how- 
ever, usually  of  considerable  interest  to  the  yokels  of  the 
countryside,  who  chuckle  immoderately  and  not  unusually 
burst  openly  into  laughter  at  the  sight  of  one. 

The  Trains  of  the  Ou  Line  run  first  W.  then  N.  from 

Fukushima,  through  a  picturesque  region  which  deserves  to  be 

better  known  to  travelers.  Heavy  snows  sometimes  delay  the 

tnin  traMc  in  winter.    A  specialty  of  the  buffets  on  the 

through  traina  ib  stewed  rice  aad  ee\&  ^nV^Ocl  Vl^  tnin-boy 


^rhe  Uesugi.  VONEZAWA  18.  HmOe.    823 

serves  hot  for  30  sen.  Hotrmilk,  fruit,  bread,  cakes,  beer,  hentd 
(p.  Ixxxiv),  etc.,  are  sold  at  most  of  the  big  stations.  Before  fol- 
lowing the  excellent  highroad  which  for  many  miles  keeps  off 
and  on  in  sight  of  the  rly .  line,  automobilists  should  read  the  2d 
paragraph  at  p.-txxxvi.  Beyond  4  M.  Niwazaka  (starting-point 
for  the  near-by  hot  sulphiu*  springs  of  Takayu;  and  for  Azumor 
yanuij  6360  ft.),  the  train  climbs  through  densely  wooded  hills 
pierced  by  several  tunnels;  the  most  conspicuous  of  these  (the 
16th)  is  Itaya,  5343  ft.  long,  with  the  far  end  (at  16  M.  Toge  • 
Station)  2151  ft.  above  sea-level.  Many  of  the  terraces  on 
which  the  rails  are  placed  have  necessitated  elaborate  and 
costly  granite  retaining  walls,  in  addition  to  scores  of  snow- 
sheds.  Not  a  few  of  the  stations  are  placed  at  the  end  of  short 
spur  tracks,  off  the  main  line. 

26  M.  Yonezawa  (Inns:  Akaneyaj  ¥2,  and  several  others 
opposite  the  station),  with  36,000  inhabs.,  was  anciently  an 
important  Tokvjgawa  fief  and  the  site  of  a  quaint  castle  erected 
in  1238^  by  the  Nagai  family.  Successive  struggles  for  the 
possession  of  this  fortified  structure  resulted  in  its  ruination 
after  it  passed  out  of  the  hands  of  the  powerful  Uesugi  family.* 
The  town  overlooks  a  wide  plain  dotted  here  and  there  with 
hamlets  and  mulberry  plantations.  Many  of  the  descendants 
of  the  samurai  of  pre-Afcyi  days  carry  on  a  considerable  trade 
in  silk  stuffs,  which  are  manufacturea  in  the  region;  the  fabric 
known  as  Yonezavoorori  is  particularly  in  demand.  —  The  rly. 
now  crosses  the  wide  valley  of  the  Yoshino^awaj  and  its 
several  tributaries.  The  women  who  work  in  the  fields  wear 
trousers  and  blouses  and  ar«  with  diflSculty  distinguished  from 
the  men.  —  36  M.  Akayu^  at  the  far  side  of  the  vallej',  pos- 
sesses hot  sulphur  springs  where  rheumatic  people  foregather. 
The  country  through  which  the  rly.  now  leads  is  lovely;  pic- 
turesque hamlets  are  strung  along  the  splendidly  metaled 
highway  like  the  brown  beads  of  a  rosary,  and  they  form 
symphonies  in  sepia  against  a  green  field.    The  line  bends 

1  The  Uesugi  was  a  famous  daimyd  family  descended  from  Fujiwara 
Yoahikado  (9th  cent.)-  It  came  into  prominence  in  the  13th  generation 
(14th  cent.) ,  and  from  that  time  onward  history  is  replete  with  the  d^ds  of 
some  of  its  illustrious  men.  Perhaps  the  most  celebrated  of  these  was 
Uesugi  Kenshin  (1530-78),  a  Buddhist  bonie  with  a  pronounced  military 
talent.  He  was  brilliant,  fearless,  and  grasping;  and,  beginning  by  deposing 
his  brother  and  assuming  the  administration  of  the  paternal  domains 
(Echigo  Province),  he  added  to  these  in  such  a  bold  and  skillful  way  that 
erelong  he  had  conquered  EtohQ,  Noto,  the  island  of  Sado,  and  other  terri- 
torial bits;  thus  threatening  the  supremacy  and  incurring  the  enmity  of  the 
great  Nobunaga  —  at  that  time  master  of  Japan.  Kenshin  did  not  hesitate 
to  cross  arms  with  his  powerful  foe,  and  had  he  not  fallen  ill  and  died  at  the 
early  age  of  48  the  history  of  Japan,  as  far  as  Oda  Nobunaga  was  concerned, 
mignt  have  suffered  a  decided  change.  Kenshin  left  no  direct  successor.  He 
occupies  a  high  place  in  the  regard  of  the  Japanese,  and  the  temple  of 
Uesugi  Kenshin,  at  Yonezatoat  is  dedicated  to  him.  The  immense  estates  of 
tids  feudal  lord  were  divided  among  his  adopted  sons,  the  descendauta  <A 
whom  resided  at  Yonezaun  (or  Dexoa)  till  the  Restoratioti.  Maaiy  o&  ^^)A 
prawnt  families  of  Yonezatoa  are  descendants  of  the  early  aainurai^  «Di\ 
.MMain  did  cuBtoma  still  exist. 


324    RoiOe  18.  YAMAGATA 

broadly  to  the  right  to  avoid  the  steep  hills  which  come  down 
at  ^e  left,  and  soon  leaves  the  valley  behind,  at  the  right. 
Shinto  shrmes  are  as  conspicuous  by  their  presence  as  Bud- 
dhist temples  are  by  their  absence.  Many  of  the  dwellings  are 
seen  to  have  light-brown  walls  with  dark-brown,  thatched 
roofs  —  a  northern  differentiation  of  the  old  Yamato  style  of 
architecture.  * 

Beyond  47  M.  Kaminoyama  (688  ft.),  near  the  Mai  River, 
.  with  hot  mineral  springs,  the  smiling  campania  becomes  a 
delight  to  the  artistic  senses;  the  odd  heights  and  curious 
angles  of  the  picturesque  roofs;  the  level  fields  and  the  pretty 
hamlets  that  snuggle  in  sequestered  dingles  of  the  delimning 
hills;  the  attra.ctive  streams  that  meander  languidly  across  Uie 
green  meadows,  dotted  here  and  there  with  shrines  and  pines, 
and  sentineled  always  by  sky-blue  mt.  peaks,  combine  to  pro- 
duce a  charming  picture.  The  highroads  look  as  good  as  those 
of  the  English  countryside,  and  one  longs  to  descend  from  the 
train  and  tramp  or  motor  over  their  inviting  surfaces: 

55  M.  Yamagata  (Inn:  Gotoya,  ¥2),  capital  of  Uzen Province 
and  of  Yamagata  Prefecture,  with  43,000  inhabs.  and  8,000 
houses,  stands  on  the  lower  slope  of  the  green  hills  which  rise 
gracefully  behind  it,  and  is  an  important  shipping-point  for 
much  of  the  rich  produce  of  the  region.  Silk  miature  mills  are 
conspicuous  features  of  the  place,  and  many  of  the  industrious 
inhabitants  can  be  seen  at  work  in  their  homes  sorting  cocoons 
or  reeling  the  silken  strands  from  them.  One  of  the  local 
specialties  is  a  slightly  acidulated  plum  jelly,  made  in  thin 
layers,  packed  between  corn-husks,  and  sold  (12-20  sen  a  box) 
at  the  rly.  station.  Anciently  Yamagata  was  known  as  Mogamif 
after  Shiba  Kaneyorij  who  received  the  Dewa  Province  in  fief 
from  Ashikaga  Takauji  in  1335,  and  whose  descendants  took 
tiie  place  and  held  it  until  they  were  dispossessed  in  1622.  The 
ruinous  old  castle  is  now  occupied  as  a  barrack.  A  popular 
resort  of  the  townspeople  is  the  village  of  Yama-dera  (6}  M. 
to  the  N.E.;  good  road),  so  called  for  the  cluster  of  decaying 
Buddhist  temples  there  said  to  have  been  founded  by  JiJcaku- 
Daishi  in  861.  The  rice  grown  in  the  vicinity  of  Yamagata 
ranks  with  the  best  in  Japan. 

The  two  lofty  peaks  seen  at  the  left  as  the  train  proceeds  N. 
are  Gwassan  (6200  ft.)  and  (at  the  N.  of  it)  Chokai-zan  (7200 
ft.).  Both  are  prominent  features  in  the  landscape  as  the  train 
descends  ^adually  over  a  rolling  country  to  93  M.  Shinjd 
(Inn:  Yaginuma,  ¥2),  440  ft.  above  the  sea,  and  the  point  of 
departure  for  a  branch  line  W.  to  48  M.  Sakata  (Inn :  ilituro-ya, 
¥2),  a  small  port  on  the  Japan  Sea,  near  the  mouth  of  the 
Mogami  River;  and  another  one  E.  to  80  M.  Kogodaj  a  station 
OD  Koute  17.  —  The  train  now  enters  a  more  mountainous 
region  and  runs  up  throurfi  narrow  valleys  and  a  sparsely 
cmtivated  country,  flecked  iiete  8jid\)aet^m\XilajccLuer  trees, 


AEITA  18.  BrntU.    825 

gliflBfliling  waterfalls,  gorges,  and  tunnels.  From  the  Innai 
Ttinnd,  1086  ft.  above  me  sea,  it  descends  through  other 
tunnels  to  122  M.  (and  679  ft.)  Inncd  Station  (Inn:  Saitd,  ¥2) 
in  Ugo  Province,  with  one-time  productive  silver  mines;  the 
lofty  mt.  at  the  far  left  is  Chokai-zan,  — 124  M.  Yokobori, 
a  poor  town,  is  remembered  by  the  Japanese  as  the  birth- 
place of  Ono  Komachif  a  celebrated  poetess  (b.  834;  d.  900), 
whose  beauty  and  talent  in  youth,  and  poverty  and  wretched- 
ness in  old  age,  form  the  theme  of  many  native  writers.  Tier 
after  tier  of  lovely  green  hills  rise  in  serried  ranka  at  the  left  of 
the  somnolent  town,  which  overlooks  a  flower-decked  valley 
through  which  a  whimpering  riviUet  flows  and  chatters  unceas- 
ingly. The  region  is  a  vast,  lovdy  garden  and  orchard  com- 
bined; the  mulberry  trees  suggest  the  delicate  gossamer  silk 
which  they  help  to  produce,  and  the  fields  of  waving  grain  the 
peace  and  plenty  of  a  contented  people.  Beyond  132  M. 
Yuzaioa  the  land  flattens  out  like  a  Kansas  prairie,  and  is 
dotted  here  and  there  with  groves  of  plume-like  bamboos, 
innes,  maples,  and  fruit  trees.  The  workers  in  the  rice-fields 
wear  wide  pilgrim  hats  of  straw,  and  strips  of  matting  to  pro- 
tect them  from  the  rain.  When  they  walk  the  hats  flap  behind 
like  big  sunbonnets,  the  brown  mats  contrasting  sharply  with 
tJie  green  of  the  rice-plants  and  making  the  wearers  resemble 
big  brown  bugs  moving  hither  and  yon.  Every  plain  seems  to 
have  its  corresponding  river,  some  of  them  as  bi^  as  the 
Arkansas:  others  small  but  treacherous,  when  the  sprmg  rains 
are  abundant. 

186  M.  Akita  (Inn:  Kohayashi-kamo;  Ishibashi  Hotels  etc.; 
¥2.50),  the  capital  (pop.  37,000)  of  Ugo  Province  and  of 
AhUa-ken  (133  ft.  above  the  Japan  Sea  ana  but  5  M.  from  it  — 
tramway  to  Tsuchizaki  Port)j  stands  on  the  right  bank  of  the 
Toshima-gawa  and  manufactures  silk  on  a  large  scale.  Fine 
peach,  pear,  and  apple  orchards  are  features  oi  the  environs. 
Akitu  has  been  a  garrison  town  since  a.d.  733,  when  a  fortress 
was  erected  here  as  a  defense  against  incursions  of  the  Ainu. 
A  long  dynasty  of  fighting  daimyos  dwelt  here  until  the  Resto- 
ration, at  which  time  the  now  ruinous  castle  was  held  by  Lord 
Saiake,  The  name  Akita  was  formerly  confined  to  the  castle, 
the  surrounding  town  being  called  Kubota.  The  fine  old  castle 
garden  has  been  converted  into  a  lovely  retreat,  the  SenshU-en 
(N.E.  quarter  of  the  town),  known  for  its  splendid  cherry  trees. 
Certain  branches  of  the  native  commerce  know  Akita  for  a 
special  mat-grass  (Nardosmia  japonica)  produced  here  and 
called  Akita-huki. 

191  M.  Tsuchizaki^  the  port  of  Akita.   The  sea  is  visible  at 
the  left,  and  the  long  rows  of  fantastic  pine  trees  which  flank 
the  shore,  by  leaning  inward,  indicate  the  direction  of  tha 
prevailing  winds.  Beyond  195  M.  Oiwake^  the  line  IxiriiaVnXasA 
and  hanks  the  shore  of  the  big    (17  M.  long,  7  M,  N^Sj^s^ 


326    R(nUe  is:  AKlTA 

Haehiro  Lagoon.  Yrom  211  M.  Kado,  it  turns  inland  and 
travco'ses  a  rolling  country  dotted  withmanv  pine  trees^  Only 
the  sturdiest  of  these  survive  the  wintry  blasts  which  cross 
from  Siberia  and  whip  the  coast  hereabout.  Long  lines  of 
snow-fences  point  to  the  severity  of  the  winters.  At  222  M. 
Hataorij  a  branch  line  diverges  (left)  to  3  M.  Noshiro  (Inn: 
Muraif  ^.50),  a  coast  port  at  the  mouth  of  the Noshiro-^dtDa, 
and  a  shipping-point  for  copper  ores  from  the  adjacent  hills. 
—  The  rly.  now  curves  broadly  to  the  right  and  runs  S.E. 
to  232  M.  Futatsuiy  where  it  turns  again  and  runs  N.E.  through 
a  mountainous  country  said  to  be  rich  in  copper.  At  251  M. 
Odate,  some  coarse  lacquer-ware  is  made.  Many  bills,  some 
stiff  grades,  and  a  series  of  tunnels  mark  the  line  to  279  M. 
Hvrosaki  (Inn:  Saikichiy  ¥2.50),  a  garrison  town  of  38,000 
inhabs.  in  Mutsu  Province,  the  northernmost  on  the  main 
ii^and  of  Japan.  The  mt.  which  rises  to  the  W.  of  the  town  is 
Itoakpsarif  or  the  Tsugaru-Fuji  (4650  ft.),  so  called  from  the 
Tsttgaru  Strait  and  for  the  resemblance  of  the  peak  to  the 
matchless  Fujisarij  of  Kai  Province.  Three  rivers,  a  tunnel, 
and  4  nondescript  stations  intervene  between  this  point  and 
302  M.  AomoH  (see  p.  318). 


m.  YEZO,  THE  KDRILES,  AND  SAeHALIEN. 


Route  Page 

Preliminaxy  Informatioa — Descriptive  and  Historical 
sketch.  327;  Geology,  328;  River  System,  329;  Zo61ogy, 
329;  The  Forests,  330;  Climate,  331;  The  Ainu,  332. 

19.  Hakodate  and  its  Environs 345 

20.  From  Hakodate  viA  Onuma,  Otaru,  Sapporo, 
Iwamizawa,  Oiwake,  Shiraoi  and  Noboribetsu 
toMuroran 348 

Onuma  and  Komagatake,  349;  Otaru,351;  Sapporo,  351; 
Ainu  Settlement  of  Shiram,  353;  Noboribetsu,  354; 
Muroran,  356. 

21.  From  Hakodate  vid  Iwamizawa,  Fukagawa, 
Asahigawa  and  Ikeda  to  Kushiro 

22.  The  Kurile  Islands 358 

23.  Saghalien 360 


YezOy  or  Ezoy  for  political  reasons  called  Hokkaidd  (comp. 
p.  cxliii),  4th  largest  (88  districts;  756  towns  and  villages  occu- 
pied by  277,254  families  of  4.10  units  each)  of  the  Japanese 
islands,  stands  beyond  the  topmost  point  of  Hondo  (from  which 
it  is  separated  by  the  Tsugaru  Strait)  j  between  lat.  4I°30and 
45°  30'  N.  and  long.  139°  50^  and  146°  E.  of  Greenwich,  and 
i^  bounded  on  the  N.  by  the  Sea  of  Okhotsk;  on  the  S.  and 
E.  by  the  Pacific  Ocean;  and  on  the  W.  by  the  Japan  Sea. 
It  is  approximately  294  M.  from  N.  to  S.,  and  394  M.  from  E. 
to  W.  From  the  earliest  times  it  has  been  occupied  by  the 
Ainu  (or  Ebi8u)y  perhaps  the  original  race  of  Japan,  and  by 
them  it  was  long  known  as  Watarishima,  or  Ferry  Island. 
It  came  into  the  foreground  of  history  when  Abe  no  Hiraftk 
explored  (in  a.d.  662)  the  greater  part  of  it  and  established 
a  garrison  in  the  present  province  of  Shiriheshi,  But  little 
was  heard  of  it  prior  to  the  16th  cent.,  when  efforts  at  colon- 
ization were  made  by  Takeda  Nobuhiro,  one  of  whose  descen- 
dants, Matsumae  YoshihirOy  had  his  authority  recognized  by 
Tokugawa  leyasu  in  1604,  The  Matsumae  continued  to 
govern  the  S.W.  part  of  the  island  till  1868,  with  headquarters 
at  the  old  town  of  Ma^tsumae,  now  Fukuyama. 

At  the  time  of  the  Imperial  Restoration  Enomoto  Takeaki 
formed  the  project  of  making  Yezo  an  independent  fief  of 
the  expiring  Tokugawa  dynasty,  and  taking  the  shogunal  fleet 
he  captured  Hakodate,  Matsumae^  and  other  towns,  and  suc- 
ceeded in  holding  the  Imperial  army  at  bay  for  several  months. 
He  was  forced  to  surrender  in  June,  1869,  and  in  the  same  'SgWi 
the  new  government  divided  the  island  into  9  provinces,  cSSVib^ 
^^Bohhaido,  placed  it  in  charge,  of  Governor  Kuroda,  wA 


328  YEZO  Gedogy. 

established  a  Golontal  Development  Office  {Jcmixikushi)  al 
Sapporo,  This  was,  however,  abolished  in  1881,  and  the 
island  was  divided  into  three  departments  {Hakodate^,  Sa^ 
poro-t  and  Nemuro-ken),  which  in  turn  were  suppressed  m 
1886  and  an  independent  administration  called  Hokkaido^kd 
was  inaugurated  with  Sapporo  as  the  capital.  Prior  to  this 
time,  American  geologists,  engineers,  agricultiural  experts,  and 
others  were  imported,  and  commendable  efforts  were  made  to 
improve  the  island.  The  many  fine  fruits,  berries,  grains,  vege- 
tables, cattle,  horses,  etc.,  for  which  it  is  now  known  are  due 
to  that  wise  initiative.  (Seep.  351.)  The  first  of  the  excellent 
riys.  (of  which  there  are  now  more  than  1000  M.)  were  con- 
structed by  American  engineers,  and  the  first  effort  to  de- 
velop the  inmiense  coal-fields  was  made  in  1874  by  Mr,  B,  S. 
Lymarij  an  American  geologist  in  the  emplov  of  the  Imperial 
Gov't.  American  apples  are  now  shipped  from  Yezo  to  all 
parts  of  Japan  and  the  Siberian  coast.  There  are  flour-mills, 
breweries,  the  largest  paper-mills  in  the  Far  East,  many  fish- 
canning  establishments,  etc.  Sulphur  is  exported  in  large 
quantities.  Each  of  the  chief  cities  has  a  Chamber  of  Com- 
merce, a  branch  of  the  Hokkaid5  Colonization  Bank,  schools, 
etc.,  while  extensive  harbor-works  are  under  way  at  several 
of  the  ports. 

The  primeval  wildness  of  Yezo  appeals  strongly  to  nature- 
lovers,  and  every  year  brings  more  and  more  travelers  to  this 
remote  corner  of  the  world.  The  Japanese  officials  are  neither 
secretive  nor  exclusive;  the  Grov*t  wants  to  colonize  the  island, 
and  its  beauties  lie  exposed  to  the  gaze  of  whosoever  would 
inspect  them.  Comfortable  rly.  trains  now  penetrate  to  many 
of  the  hitherto  inaccessible  interior  points,  and  coasting- 
steamers  circle  the  island  and  touch  at  the  chief  ports.  Many 
of  the  highways  are  not  practicable  for  jinrikis  (which  are 
little  used),  but  are  all  right  for  horses,  which  are  plentiful 
and  cheap.  The  traveler  is  advised  to  bring  his  own  saddle,  as 
the  native  article  is  uncomfortable.  Hunters  (comp.  p.  cii) 
should  also  bring  their  own  guns  and  ammunition,  as  such  are 
not  always  obtainable  locally.  Guides  and  interpreters  are 
found  in  all  the  large  towns,  and  hunting-permits  are  issued 
by  the  local  authorities.  A  special  letter  of  introduction  from 
the  Tokyo  Gov't  is  always  useful.  The  dense  forests  and 
swamps  are  drained  by  innumerable  short,  rapid  rivers,  which 
are  subject  to  violent  freshets  and  which  usually  harbor 
excellent  fish. 

Geologically   Yezo  differs  but  slightly  from  Japan  proper; 

the  mt.  system  may  be  regarded  as  a  continuation  of  those  of 

Saghalien  and  the  Kuriles.    The  mass  of  the  chain  running 

from  N.  to  8.  consists  of  granite  and  old  schists.   In  the  axis 

cf  the  range  running  toward  llie  ^.^ .,  \olca.iiic  formations 

predomiDate,  with  trachytic  and  baaaWXe  ToO&a.  ^^^rnxsMNK^ 


Rwer  Sygtem.  YEZO  320 

pfomontories  on  the  coast,  projecting  mt.  spun  jut  into  the 
sea,  while  between  them  stretch  flat  8k)re8  with  scores  of  sand- 
dunes.  On  the  coast  of  Hakodate  the  Pluto-Neptunian  rocks 
are  similar  to  the  formations  of  the  Bay  of  Sendai  and  other 
parts  of  the  main  island  coast,  while  in  other  places  the  tufa- 
conglomerates  and  organic  remains  are  not  lacking.  Coal  is 
mined  in  several  provinces,  and  the  chief  mineral  wealth  of  the 
island  is  in  its  coal-fields  —  which  are  estimated  to  contain 
150,000,000,000  tons!  The  seams  are  of  the  Carboniferous 
system,  while  those  of  Old  Japan  belong  to  recent  forma- 
tions. The  older  Tertiary,  the  Mesozoic  formations,  the  mag- 
nesian  limestone  and  red  sandstone  of  the  Permian  system  are 
but  slightly  developed.  Metamorphic  rocks,  —  the  oldest  of 
which  are  granulite  and  conglomerate  breccia,  followed  by 
aphanite,  syenite-granite,  and  diorite,  —  including  the  marine 
terrace  deposits,  and  eruptive  rocks  of  all  ages  are  found. 
Black  and  gray  clay-schists,  associated  with  ^reen  stones  and 
in  other  places  frequently  oisrupted  by  strikmgly  white  por- 
ph3rry  veins,  or  traversed  in  all  directions  by  quartz  veins  with 
iron  pyrites,  appear  in  many  places  and  in  great  thickness. 
Few  if  any  of  the  mts.  rise  higher  than  8000  ft.  There  are 
numerous  prominently  active  and  remarkable  volcanoes;  the 
formidable  dying  craters  of  Noboribetsu  are  described  in  Rte. 
20,  and  others  in  their  proper  places. 

The  River  System  centers  practically  at  Tokachi-dake  (7000 
ft.),  on  the  border  of  Tokachi  and  I  shikari  Provinces,  whence 
the  great  rivers  of  the  island  radiate  to  the  sea.  The  Ishikari, 
the  largest  and  most  important,  flows  in  a  S.W.  direction,  and 
after  a  winding  course  of  275  M.  falls  in  to  Otaru  Bay,  near 
the  small  town  of  Ishikari.  The  TeshiOf  after  traversing  the 
province  named  after  it,  ends  its  140  M.  course  near  the  45th 
parallel  in  the  Gulf  of  Tartary.  The  TokacMf  which  rises  not 
far  from  the  basin  of  the  Ishikari,  flows  120  M.  S.W.  to  the 
Pacific  Ocean,  into  which  it  falls  near  Otsumormaru,  The  less 
important  Tokoro-gawa^owB  75  M.E.  through Kitami Province 
and  empties  into  the  Okhotsk  Sea. 

Zodlogically  Yezo  differs  considerably  from  Hondd.  Wild 
creatures  are  represented  by  grizzly  bears,  deer,  wolves,  foxes, 
hares,  wild  ducks,  teal,  quail,  snipe,  woodcock,  etc.  The 
range  of  the  ape  and  the  pheasant  extends  only  to  the  Tsugaru 
Strait.  Stuffed  specimens  of  the  many  beautiful  birds  for 
which  the  island  is  known  can  be  seen  at  the  Sapporo  Museum 
(Rte.  20).  The  cold  waters  of  the  environing  seas  produce 
almost  everything  from  the  cachelot  to  the  sprat,  and  the 
bleaching  bones  of  the  former  can  often  be  seen  along  the 
coast.  The  fisheries  are  immensely  productive.  In  autmnn, 
salmon  (Oncorhynchus  Perryi ;  Jap.  masu)  stream  fcoixi  Wit^ 
aea  into  the  rivers  and  afford  occupation  and  food  ioi  \3lEtf9iir 
miKis  of  men.   At  many  of  the  fisLing-Btatioiu&  (JdiaV.  aA  €fci^ 


830  YEZO  The  ForesU, 

Ishihari  River,  near  Sapporoj  is  interesting)  the  fish  are  caught 
in  huge  seines  which  require  scores  of  men  to  handle;  20,000 
or  more  salmon  weighing  10  lbs.  or  more  each  are  often  caught 
in  a  single  day.  The  salting,  smoking,  canning,  and  shipping 
of  theni  is  one  of  the  greatest  local  industrief .  Great  shoals 
of  herring  frequent  the  E.  shore  in  March-April  and  Oct.- 
Nov.,  andf  the  oil  expressed  from  them  forms,  along  with  cuttle- 
fish and  biche^'-mer  (iriko),  important  exports  (to  China  and 
elsewhere).  Certain  of  the  many  varieties  of  edible  seaweed 
which  floiu'ish  along  the  Japanese  coast  are  found  in  Yezo,  par- 
ticularly the  circumpolar  t>angle  (Laminarioe)  and  seawracks 
(Fitcus  species),  which  prefer  cold  water  and  a  heavy  surf. 
For  this  reason  sea-algSB  add  considerably  to  the  value  of  the 
Yezo  exports. 

The  Forests  which  for  unnumbered  centuries  have  been  the 
primeval,  undisputed  hunting-ground  of  the  primitive  Ainu, 
—  shaggy,  uncultured  men  almost  as  hairy  as  Esau,  —  pos- 
s^as  a  distinctive  charm.  Gigantic  bears  and  tracking  wolves 
lurk  in  their  shadowy,  soundless  depths,  and  other  wild  beasts 
haunt  impenetrable  fastnesses  where  the  lumberman's  axe 
has  never  rung,  and  where  the  wealth  of  vegetation  is  equal 
in  luxuriance  and  entanglement  to  that  of  the  tropics.  There 
seems  no  limit  to  these  solemn  woods,  rent  here  and  there  with 
tremendous  gorges  down  which  roaring  rivers  tumble  in  cas- 
cades to  the  sea;  or  vexed  by  upstarting  mts.  swathed  in  gloom 
at  their  feet  and  belted  with  giant  trees  to  their  very  summits. 
They  stretch  to  the  topmost  point  of  the  island  and  appear 
to  grow  denser  and  more  forbidding  as  they  reach  into  the 
cold  and  silent  north,  away  from  civilization  and  into  solitude 
and  desolation.  Conspicuous  among  the  host  of  magnificent 
forest  trees  are  the  splendid  magnolias  (named  after  Pierre 
Magnol,  a  French  botanist — 1638-1715),  or  Ho-^no-H,  ten 
or  more  Species  of  which  flourish  in  the  foliaceous  mt.  forests 
of  Japan  from  KyUshu  to  Yezo.  The  smooth  grayish-white 
bark  and  straight  trunk  (sometimes  6  ft.  in  circumference  and 
75  ft.  high)  remind  one  of  the  beech,  while  the  superb  white 
flowers  (with  a  pineapple  perfume)  make  the  tree  one  of  the 
most  beautiful  objects  in  the  landscape.  Chestnuts,  walnuts, 
idaples,  alders,  beeches,  lindens,  oaks,  birches,  elms,  Chinese 
Sumach,  the  ash,  and  a  host  of  trees,  oftentimes  bound  to- 
gether by  white  flowering  trailers  of  the  Hydrangeacece,  add 
beauty  to  the  forest.  —  Fires  oftentimes  sweep  over  vast  sec- 
tions and  destroy  countless  thousands  of  acres  of  valuable  tim- 
ber. The  great  fire  of  May,  1911,  burned  2000  houses,  killed  16 
persons^  and  for  a  time  threatened  the  whole  island  with 
destruction.  Wherever  the  soil  is  reclaimed  from  the  forest 
it'  ia  usually  of  unexampled  richness.  Rice,  the  great  staple 
of  8,  Japan,  thrives  illy  because  oi  the  short  summer,  but 
Wheat,  b&tley,  rye,  maize,  buckwYieaX,  e\.e.,  <kk  ^^.  Tto 


The  ClimaU.  YEZO  SKSl 

excellent  butter  made  by  the  Trappist  Monks  at  the  MonaHitre 
de  Notre  Dame  du  Phare,  at  Ishibetsu  Mura,  and  the  eaually 
fine  cheese  produced  by  the  nuns  of  Notre  Dame  dea  Anffet, 
at  Yunogawa.  are  in  demand  throughout  Japan. 

The  Climate  is  somewhat  like  that  of  New  England,  with 
long  cold  winters,  and  short  hot  summers.  The  winter  at 
Hakodate  and  the  S.  part  of  the  island,  where  the  thermometer 
rarely  drops  below  5°  F.,  and  where  it  often  remains  in  the 
neighborhood  of  20°,  is  much  milder  that  at  the  N..  where  the 
cold  is  of  almost  Siberian  intensity.  The  snowfall  is  not  so 
heavy,  and  the  sunny  exposure  of  the  port  brings  many  mild 
winter  days.  The  mean  annual  temperature  is  about  10° 
below  that  of  TokyS,  but  the  range  in  the  direction  of  cold  is 
much  greater.  The  minimum  might  be  put  at  20°,  the  maxi- 
mum at  88°.  The  prevailing  winter  winds  at  Hakodate  are 
from  the  N.W.  and  W.,  and  there  sometimes  rides  down  upon 
them  an  iciness  that  stings  the  flesh  and  nipis  the  unprotected 
ear.  The  summer  nights  are  cool,  and  chilly  days  are  frequent 
in  July.  August  is  the  hottest  month,  but  the  tJiermoAieter 
rarely  rises  above  90°.  The  summer  wanes  early,  and  the  red- 
dening maples  promptly  usher  in  the  cool  weather.  North- 
ward of  Hakodate,  the  conditions  change  with  each  degree. 
The  records  of  the  meteorological  bureau  at  Sapporo  diow 
148  frosty  nights  against  67  at  Toky5.  While  the  maximum 
rainfall  (98  rainy  days)  occurs  in  Hakodate  in  July^Sept.. 
Sapporo  has  a  distinct  autumn  rainy  season,  the  greatest  fall 
taking  place  in  Oct.-Nov.  Though  exempt  from  the  dreaded 
typhoons  of  S.  Japan,  Yezo  is  often  swept  by  heavy  gales  and 
drenched  under  torrential  rains  referred  to  as  'typhoon 
rains.'  Extensive  irrigation  is  unnecessary.  Heavy  snows 
(4-6  ft.  deep)  lie  on  the  ground  during  6-7  months  of  the 
year,  and  this  long  cold  season  limits  the  period  of  vegetation 
to  5  months.  The  W.  coast  (several  degrees  warmer  Qian  the 
E.  coast)  is  ice-bound  during  the  entire  winter.  The  ground 
freezes  several  feet  deep  and  does  not  thaw  until  late  May. 
The  last  vestige  of  snow  disappears  only  under  the  June  sun- 
shine. The  N.  and  E.  coasts  are  foggy  and  cold  even  in  sum- 
mer, and  the  gray,  gloomy  days  remind  one  of  the  Maine 
coast  in  winter. 

The  traveler  who  dislikes  cold  will  perhaps  find  Yezo  most 
attractive  between  May  15  and  Oct.  1.  Americans  living  N. 
of  Mason  and  Dixon's  line  will  find  the  crisp  winter  delightful. 
The  glorious  sunlight  that  glints  across  the  frost-gemmed 
fields  is  surcharged  with  ozone,  and  the  picture  of  the  tall 
conifers  almost  buried  beneath  soft,  clinging  snow  is  a  tonic 
to  the  mind.  A  horsefly  called  abu  makes  traveling  the  woods 
in  Aug.  uncomfortable.  Residents  say  June  and  July  afford 
itie  best  salmon-fishing,  and  that  early  aulumn  \a  V^  \)«bX» 
far  wild  ducks.  Experienced  hunters  seek  t^  d^eei  ooA.'wAn^^ 


832  YEZO  The  Awu. 

In  winteit.  The  views  at  aU  times  are  beguiling,  but  particularly 
in  the  ^rin^  and  autumn  when  the  atmosphere  is  clearest. 
Then  '  there  is  li^t  without  heat,  leaves  and  streams  sparkle, 
and  there  is  nothing  of  the  half Hsmothered  sensation  ^mich  is 
often  produced  by  the  choking  greenery  of  the  main  island.' 

The  Aino,  or  Ainos  (comp.  p.  ccbdi),  who  call  themselves 
Ainu  ('  men') ;  who  are  referred  to  in  Japanese  history  as  Ebisu 
C  barbarians'),  and  often  by  foreigners  as  the  ^  hairy  Ainos,* 
and/Aairj/  KurUea*]  the  degraded  lees  of  the  (perhaps)  abor- 
iginal race  of  Japan,  and  of  whom  but  about  18,000  remain, 
stand  in  more  or  less  the  same  relation  to  the  Japanese  Gov't 
that  the  Red  Indians  of  North  America  do  to  that  of  the  United 
Statra.  The  countless  thousands  that  once  roamed  over  the 
main  island  of  Japan,  with  their  blood  kindred,  the  Emiahi 
(often  called  Ebisu,  and  Yezo),  were  ruthlessly  slaughtered 
and  gradually  driven  northward  to  their  present  cold  and 
cheerless  refuge  in  the  Kurile  Islands,  Saghalien,  and  Yezo, 
where  they  dwell  in  rude,  isolated  huts  or  tribal  conununities 
usually  near,  the  sea  and  generally  at  a  distance  from  the  hab- 
itations of  their  concjuerors.  Their  clustered  huts  are  often 
found  inland  on  the  l>anks  of  the  larger  rivers^  which,  with  the 
sea,  supply  them  with  fish;  and  less  frequently  in  the  mts. 
In  some  instances,  notably  that  of  Shiraoiy  Horobetsu,  Mam" 
betsu,  Rebunge,  etc.,  there  are  mixed  Ainu  and  Japanese 
villages,  but  there  is  generally  a  dividing  line  between  them, 
as  the  Ainu  adhere  to  their  patriarchal  customs  and  adopt 
only  from  the  Japanese  that  which  they  consider  essential 
to  their  welfare.  Besides,  Japanese  contiguity  does  not  always 
benefit  them.  The  Ainu  take  kindly  to  foreigners,  especially 
richly  bewhiskered  ones,  in  whom  the  simple  natives  see  at 
least  a  hirsute  relationship.  Travelers  are  received  courteously, 
and  there  is  usually  a  lack  of  obtrusiveness  in  any  form. 

HiBTOBicAii  Sketch.  The  ambiguous  oracles  of  the  Ainu 
Bay  their  progenitors  sprang  from  one  of  the  three  daughters 
of  a  certain  prince  of  one  of  the  kingdoms  of  Asia.  Having 
become  the  unwilling  object  of  the  incestuous  desire  of  her 
father,  the  girl  left  the  palace  at  night,  fled  to  the  seashore, 
and  there  embarked  in  a  canoe  in  which  there  was  a  large  dog. 
The  pair  traveled  in  company  many  months,  finally  reaching 
an  unknown  place  in  the  East  where  the  young  princess  gave 
birth  to  a  boy  and  a  girl  whose  bodies  were  covered  with 
hair.  Tliese  are  considered  the  legendary  ancestors  of  the 
Ainu  race.  Some  beUeve  the  episode  gave  rise  to  the  name 
Aino,  which  is  thought  to  be  a  corruption  of  Air-no-ko  ('off- 
spring of  the  middle,  or  a  *  breed  between  man  and  beast.'). 

'    (Jthers  say  Ainu  is  derived  from  the  Japanese  iViu,  a  dog,  — 

a  contemptuous  epithet  often  applied  to  them.   The  descend- 

ants  of  the  Srat  durious  pair  married*,  eom^  «Anoug  themselves; 

otben  with  mt.  bears;  the  fruit  ol  eacXi  \xTv\o\v>o^m%'\3Mx^3yfc 


AvMEiOory-  TEZO  S3tt 

hunters  and  men  of  extraordinary  valor,  who,  after  a  long 
life  spent  in  the  vicioity  of  their  birth,  departed  to  the  Far 
North,  where  they  stiU  Uve  on  the  high  and  inaccessible 
tablelands  above  the  mts.  Being  immortal,  they  direct 
by  their  magical  influence  the  actons  and  the  destiny  of 
the  present  AinuJ 

It  is  beUeved  by  some  that  the  Ainu  and  the  Emishi  were 
the  people  who  Jimmu  Tennd  encountered  when  he  crossed 
from  KyushQ  to  the  Main  Island  in  660  B.C.  Evidences  of 
this  aboriginal  race  are  to  be  found  in  tJie  relics  of  the  Stone 
Age  in  various  parts  of  Japan.  '  Flint,  arrow-  and  spear-  heads, 
hammers,  chisds,  scrapers,  kitchen-refuse,  and  various  other 
trophies  are  excavated  from  time  to  time,  and  may  now  be 
found  in  the  museums.  Though  covered  with  the  soil  of  cen- 
tiuies^  the  exhumed  articles  seem  as  though  freshly  brought 
from  an  Ainu  hut.  In  scores  of  instances  the  very  pecufiar 
ideas,  customs,  and  superstitions  of  both  Japanese  and  Ainu 
are  the  same,  or  but  slightly  modified.'  That  the  two  races  were 
antagonistic  is  shown  by  the  barrows,  or  Ainu  Mounds, 
which  the  traveler  may  see  in  N.  Japan,  and  which  contain 
heaps  upon  heaps  of  the  bones  of  the  imfortunates  slaughtered 
by  the  Japanese  more  than  a  millennium  ago.  For  centuries 
after  the  Japanese  established  themselves  in  Yamato  the  abor- 
iginals maintained  a  determined  resistance  against  the  south- 
em  invaders,  and  in  720  a.d.  they  made  it  necessary  to  call 
out  the  militia  of  nine  provinces  before  they  were  checked 
in  an  assault  on  the  Nipponese  strongh9ld  and  driven  baek 
N.  of  Sendai.  For  years  they  were  to  the  Japanese  what  the 
North  American  Indian  tribes  were  to  the  settlers  of  Virginia 
and  New  England.  In  776  some  of  the  Ainu  chieftains  on 
the  N.  frontier  opened  the  strife  with  such  determination 
that  the  old  Toga  Forty  built  near  Sendai  as  an  outpost  against 
them,  was  taken  with  all  its  munitions  of  war  and  supplies. 
They  massacred  the  commandant  and  most  of  the  garrison, 
and  spread  terror  through  the  country  as  far  S.  as  T5ky6. 
They  often  beat  the  Japanese  on  land  and  sea,  and  it  was  not 
until  the  9th  cent,  that  the  age-long  contest  was  brought  to  a 
close.  About  855  a  civil  war  broke  out  among  them,  and  this 
so  weakened  them  that  when  they  again  rose,  in  878,  they  were 
comparatively  easily  dealt  with.  From  the  9th  cent,  onward 
the  Ainu  were  settled  in  villages  on  the  footing  of  ordinary 
Japanese  subjects.  It  is  thought  that  the  prisoners  who  were 
transported  to  several  places  in  the  S.  of  tne  islands  were  the 
progenitors  of  the  Etay  who  formed  a  large  part  of  the  pariah 
class  of  feudal  Japan.  Dealing  in  skins  of  animals  and  in 
leather  until  after  it  was  tanned  was  anciently  considered  < 
unclean,  and  tanning  was  a  monopoly  of  the  Eta.  So  also  w«& 
the  work  in  connection  with  the  common  execxiWoU'^^gcov^^i 
and  other  degrading  Uuaks, 


034  YEZO  Ainu  CharackrUiUca, 

Charactbbistics.  The  Ainu  are  uncivilized,  shiftless,  igno- 
rant, filthy,  healthy,  amiable,  gentle,  submissive,  and  hospit- 
able. Instead  of  being  the  morose,  sad-visaged  aborigimds 
that  some  writers  picture  them,  they  are,  on  the  contrary,  gm- 
erally  good-natured,  though  reserved  and  taciturn;  tmst- 
wortny,  courteous  in  their  rude  way,  and  with  winning  man- 
ners that  one  does  not  usually  associate  with  savages.  They 
live  chiefly  by  fishing  and  the  chase,  and  their  general  manner 
of  life  has  not  materially  changed  during  ages.  In  stature  they 
are  short  (the  men  average  5  ft.  5  in.  in  height,  the  women  5  ft.) 
like  the  Japanese  but  chunky  and  much  stronger,  with  more 
muscle,  greater  breadth  of  shoulders,  a  better  developed  chest 
and  torso,  with  short  arms  and  legs  and  large  hands  and  feet. 
The  complexion  of  the  men  is  darker  than  the  light  olive  of  the 
Nipponese,  with  a  coppery,  brownish  tint  suggestive  of  the 
North  American  Indian.  That  of  the  women  is  a  shade  lighter. 
The  average  woman  is  unusually  well  developed,  with  luxuri- 
ant black  hair,  superb  teeth,  sparkling  eyes,  and  a  light,  lithe, 
springy  walk.  The  features  of  both  are  a  singular  blend  of 
Mongol  and  European,  with  a  Negroid  suggestion  emphasized 
by  the  short  and  straight  nose,  flattish  and  well  rounded  at  the 
nostrils,  the  (sometimes)  thickish  lips,  and  the  wide  but  weU- 
formed  mouth  filled  with  small,  white,  regular  teeth.  The  neck 
is  short,  tiie  brow  high,  broad,  and  massive;  while  the  large, 
quite  deeply  set,  beautiful  and  expressive  liquid  brownish- 
black  eyes,  though  not  placed  obliquely,  leave  nevertheless  a 
suggestion  of  Tartar  ancestry.  The  eyes  are  far  and  away  the 
finest  features;  singularly  soft  and  kindly,  with  long,  abundant 
silky  lashes.  Their  voices  are  soft,  low,  arid  surprisingly  musi- 
cal, and  when  they  speak  and  smile  at  the  same  time  the  timid, 
gentle  eyes  beam  winsomely,  and  the  expression  is  as  sweet  as 
that  of  a  gracious  woman.  The  voices  of  the  men  are  devoid  of 
gruffness  imtil  their  owners  are  displeased;  then  they  utter  a 
short,  shrill  screech  which  betrays  the  savage. 

Their  most  striking  peculiarity  is  the  abundant  sloe-black 
hair  which  fails  in  soft,  thick,  sometimes  wavy,  masses  to  the 
shoulders,  where  it  js  clipped.  In  the  case  of  the  older  men,  this 
unusual  mass  of  hair  on  the  head  is  supplemented  by  astonish- 
ingly thick  beards  and  mustaches,  the  former  sometimes  12-14 
in.  long  and  imparting  a  venerable  and  patriarchal  appearance. 
Many  of  the  men  have  practically  no  hair  on  the  breast,  and 
but  httle  on  the  arms  and  legs ;  others  show  a  noticeable  growth 
on  the  torso,  arms,  and  limbs,  and  this  sometimes  stands  out 
short  and  bristly.  As  a  general  rule  the  majority  of  the  Ainu 
are  no  more  hairy  than  Russian  Jews  or  certain  husky,  brawny 

.  Scotch  gillies,  and  in  many  communities  of  the  world  they 

would  pass  unnoted.  The  hairiness  of  the  race  as  a  distinctive 

feature  ia  brought  into  exaggerated  prominence  by  their 

proximity  to  the  smooth-skinned  Japanea^,  «c^d  ^  olten  en- 


TnbalCuatoms.  YEZO  836 

laiged  upcm  by  impresdonidtio  writera.  There  are,  hotrerer, 
iH>tewQrthy  exceptions  to:  the  general  rule,  and  these  astonish 
and  puzzle  the  ooserver.  For  some  unexplamed  reason  many 
of  ^e  Ainu  who  inhabit  the  tribal  communities  scattered  along 
the  shore  of  Volcano  Bay  are  darker  than  thoae  oi  ^hiraoif 
PircUori,  and  other  villages,  and  considerably  more  hairy. 
Here  men  may  occasionally  be  seen  completely  but  thinly 
covered  with  soft,  silky  hair  an  inch  or  more  long,  but  they 
are  the  exception  and  not  the  rule.  When  very  old  and  very 
shrunken  they  bear  an  amazing  likeness  to  animals,  and  inspire 
one  with  an  aversion  difficult  to  dominate.  Many  of  the  young 
men  apparently  dislike  the  notoriety  tirising  from  their  hirsute 
decoration,  and  they  carry  smoothly  shaven  faces;  in  such 
cases  the  strongly  marked  blue-black  beard  beneath  their  sun- 
tanned cheeks,  coupled  with  their  piercing  eyes  and  swarthy 
complexion,  imparts  a  sort  of  dashing  appearance,, like  that  of 
a  Spanish  corsair.  Many  of  the  women  bear  a  striking  resem- 
blance to  Spanish  gypsies,  particularly  when  they  adorn  their 
ears  with  the  big  silver  hoops  of  which  they  are  so  fond,  and 
put  about  their  necks  the  large  strings  of  turquoise-like  beads 
(usually  a  wedding-gift)  witlf  hammered  silver  pendants.  *A 
cmious  intensity  about  their  e^es,  coupled  with  the  profusion 
of  black  hair  and  singularly  vigorous  physique,  give  the  men 
a  formidably  savage  appearance,  but  the  smile,  full  of  sweet- 
ness and  light,  in  which  both  eyes  and  mouth  bear  part,  makes 
one  at  times  forget  that  they  are  savages.  The  venerable  look 
of  some  of  the  old  men  harmonizes  with  the  singular  dignity 
and  courtesy  of  their  manners,  but  as  one  looks  at  the  grand 
heads,  and  reflects  that  the  Ainu  have  never  shown  any  capac- 
ity, and  are  merely  adult  children,  they  seem  to  suggest  water 
on  the  brain  rather  than  intellect.  The  European  expression 
of  their  faces  is  truthful,  straightforward,  and  manly,  but  both 
it  and  the  tone  of  voice  are  strongly  tinged  with  pathos.  They 
doubtless  stand  high  among  uncivilized  tribes,  but  they  are  as 
completely  irreclaimable  as  the  wildest  of  nomad  tribes,  and 
contact  with  civilization,  where  it  exists,  only  debases  them. 
Several  young  Ainu  were  once  sent  to  Tokyo,  and  educated 
and  trained  in  various  ways,  but  as  soon  as  they  returned  to 
Yezo  they  relapsed  into  savagery,  retaining  nothing  but  a 
knowledge  of  Japanese.  They  are  charming  in  many  ways,  but 
make  one  sad,  too,  by  their  stupidity,  apathy,  and  hopeless- 
ness.' 

Tattooing,  a  tribal  custom  which  dates  beyond  the  memory 
of  the  present-day  Ainuy  and  which  formerly  was  a  part  of 
their  religion,  is  one  of  the  most  striking  characteristics  of  the 
women;  it  is  begun  (the  Melanasian  method  is  practiced;  see 
p.  clxxii)  when  the  child  is  about  5  job.  old,  and  \»  €>\ip^^«s»^ 
to  enhance  its  beauty.  The  Up  is  cut  with  a  sharp  \anift,  W30\. 
wbkxb  collects  on  the  mat  above  the  fire  is  ruboed  m\»  V5aR 


336  TEZO  THbdt  Customs. 

wound)  which  is  later  washed  with  a  decoction  of  the  bark  of  a 
certain  tree,  to  fix  the  iiattem,  and  to  ^ve  it  the  blue  look 
desired.  As  the  child  grows  the  pattern  is  extended,  so  tiiat 
when  she  is  ready  to  be  married  (at  abdut  17  yrs.)  she  usually 
has  a  large,  bownshaped  mustache  with  tapering,  slightly 
tumed-up  ends,  on  the  upper  lip,  and  a  tiny  triangle  wit£  the 
point  downwani,  on  the  lower  lip.  Other  fancy  patterns  — 
bands,  circles,  a  sort  of  lattice-work,  and  what-not  —  are 
tattooed  on  the  arms  and  hands  from  the  elbow  down  to  the 
knuckles,  and  the  heavy  eyebrows  are  connected  by  a  line  of 
tattooing.  In  the  case  of  the  younger  and  more  comely  women, 
the  mustachios  are  strikftigly  effective,  ostensibly  converting 
them  —  with  all  their  feminine  charms  —  into  dashingly 
attractive  young  men.  Certain  of  the  children  are  not  tat- 
tooed —  in  obedience  to  prohibitive  orders  from  the  Japanese 
Gov't.  The  deep  blue  embellishment  is  apt  to  impart  an 
unpleasant  look  to  the  old  crones,  making  their  shriveled 
mouths  look  disproportionately  wide  and  witch-like,  —  almost 
stretching  from  ear  to  ear!  But  this  even  is  not  so  irretrievably 
hideous  as  the  Japanese  custom  of  blackening  the  teeth  — 
which  is  a  post-nuptial  act,  while  the  tattooing  of  the  Ainu 
girls  is  done  before  marriage. 

The  Ainu  have  no  mode  of  computing  time,  and  do  not  know 
their  own  ages.  *To  them  the  past  is  dead,  yet  like  other  con- 
quered and  despised  races,  they  cling  to  the  idea  that  in  some 
far-off  age  they  were  a  great  nation.  With  them  the  art  of  war 
seems  to  have  been  lost  long  ago.  Their  habits,  though  by  no 
means  destitute  of  decency  and  propriety,  are  not  cleanly. 
The  women  bathe  their  hands  once  a  day,  but  any  other  wash- 
ing is  unknown  or  not  practiced.  They  never  wash  their 
clothes,  and  wear  the  same  day  and  night.*  Their  houses  swarm 
with  fleas,  and  are  sometimes  permeated  by  an  ancient  fish 
smell  very  trying  to  foreign  nostrils.  As  if  in  defiance  of  the 
microbe  theory  they  are  a  healthy  race,  with  but  few  chronic- 
ally ailing  people.  'Though  the  children  are  often  afflicted  by 
cutaneous  diseases,  these  wear  off  when  they  are  10  or  12  yrs. 
old,  and  they  generally  live  to  grow  up;  they  are  not  carried:  off 
by  the  infantile  diseases  which  plague  civilized  communities.' 
The  children  themselves  are  grave,  gentle,  obedient,  often- 
times pretty  and  attractive.  When  young,  they  sometimes 
give  promise  of  an  intelligence  which  generally  fails  to  material- 
ize in  later  years.  They  are  weaned  when  3-4  yrs.  old;  boys  are 
preferred  to  girls,  but  infanticide  is  not  practiced.  —  Parents 
seem  fond  of  their  children,  who  in  turn  are  affectionate.  They 
do  not  receive  names  till  they  are  4  or  5  yrs.  old.  A  childless 
wife  may  be  divorced;  if  she  is  not,  a  second  wife  is  usually 
taken  by  the  husband.  They  are  said  to  make  faithful  and 
lAborioua  helpmates,  and  to  aeaiat  \w  hunting  and  fishing, 
beeidea  tixeir  other  work.  They  carry  \k'&\x\i?ikA<ia^v3iL-^\«fct, 


Ainu  Women.  YEZO  837 

as  do  the  Japanese  mothers,  excepting  that  the  child  is  sup- 
ported by  a  broad  band  which  passes  round  the  womairs 
forehead. 

Polygamy  is  practiced  by  the  chiefs  in  some  communities, 
each  of  which  is  usually  presided  over  by  some  patriarch 
elected  by  the  people.  Girls  marry  when  they  are  about  17; 
boys  at  21.  When  a  man  wishes  to  marry  he  asks  the  chief's 
permission.  If  the  father  of  the  girl  consents,  the  happy  youth 
makes  him  a  present  of  a  Japanese  curio  —  which  concludes 
the  betrothal.  Marriage  immediatelv  follows,  and  is  celebrated 
by  carousals  and  much  drinking  of  sake.  The  bride  receives 
as  her  dowry  an  ornamented  kimono  and  some  ear-rings.  If  a 
man  tires  of  his  wife,  he  can  divorce  her  with  the  consent  of  the 
chief.  Conjugal  fidelity  is  a  virtue  among  the  women^  who  are 
chaste.  Five  is  the  usual  number  of  an  Ainu  family:  aged 
parents  receive  filial  reverence,  kindness,  and  support  from 
their  children.  Present-day  marriages  between  Japanese  and 
Ainu  are  said  to  be  sterile;  a  fact  attributed  to  the  difference  in 
physical  constitution  occasioned  by  many  consecutive  genera- 
tions of  savage  life.  The  people  are  coiuteous  to  each  other  and 
to  strangers.  'The  common  salutation  consists  in  extending 
the  hands  and  waving  them  inwards,  once  or  of tener,  and  strok- 
ing the  beard ;  a  f  onnal  salute  is  made  by  raising  the  hands  with 
an  inward  curve  to  the  level  of  the  head  two  or  three  times, 
lowering  them,  and  rubbing  them  together;  the  ceremony 
concludmg  with  stroking  the  beard  several  times.  The  women 
have  "  no  manners!  " '  The  indoor  occupation  of  the  men  is  to 
carve  wood  articles  —  knife-sheaths,  spoons,  canes,  and  what- 
not. They  are  fond  of  smoking. 

The  Ainu  Women  work  hard,  but  their  lot  is  not  as  bad  as 
it  might  be.  *They  rise  earlv,  sew,  split  the  bark  of  which  their 
own  and  their  husband's  clothes  are  made;  they  draw  water, 
chop  wood,  cultivate  the  soil  (in  which  the  men  lend  a  hand), 
grind  millet  and  take  care  of  the  children.  They  eat  of  the 
same  food,  and  at  the  same  time  as  the  men,  laugh  and  talk 
before  them,  and  receive  equal  support  and  respect  in  old  age. 
They  all  understand  the  making  of  oark-cloth  (from  the  linden 
tree)  and  the  weaving  of  mats,  which  they  sell  (along  with 
bear-skins)  or  trade  for  sake  and  other  necessaries.  The  men 
bring  in  the  bark  in  strips,  5  ft.  long,  having  removed  the  outer 
coating.  This  inner  bark  is  easily  separated  into  several  thin 
layers,  which  are  split  into  very  narrow  strips  by  the  older 
women,  very  neatly  knotted,  and  wound  into  balls,  weighing 
about  a  pound  each.  No  preparation  of  either  the  bark  or  the 
thread  is  required  to  fit  it  for  weaving,  but  some  of  the  women 
steep  it  in  a  decoction  of  a  bark  which  produces  a.  brown  dye 
and  deepens  the  buff  tint.  The  simple  loom  consists  of  a  aUrat 
hook  fixed  in  the  floor,  to  which  the  threads  of  the  iax  «iid.  oi 
the  web  are  secured,  a  cord  faatening  the  near  end  to  t\i<d  YisAa^ 


338  TEZO  Aim  ^V&men. 

of  the  worker,  who  supplies/  by  dexterous  rigidity,  the  nec^ 
sary  tension;  a  frame  like  a  comb  resting  on  the  ankles, 
through  which  the  thready. pass,  a  hollow  roll  for  keepiixg  the 
upper  and  under  threads  separa;te,  a  spatula-shaped  shuttle  of 
engraved  wood,  and  a  roller  on  which  the  cloth  is  rolled  as  it 
is  made.  The  length  of  the  web  is  15  ft.,  and  the  width  of  the 
cloth  15  in.  It  is  woven  with  great  regularity,  and  the  knots  in 
the  thread  are  carefuHy  kept  on  the  under  side.  It  is  a  very 
slow  and  fatiguing  process,  and  a  woman  cannot  do  much  more 
than  a  foot  a  day.  The  weaver  sits  on  the  floor  with  the  whole 
arrangement  attached  to  her  waist,  and  the  loom,  if  such  it 
may  be  called,  on  her  ankles.  It  takes  long  practice  before  she 
can  supply  the  necessary  tension  by  spinal  rigidity.  As  the 
Work  proceeds  she  drags  herself  almost  imperceptibly  nearer 
the  hook.  In  some  of  the  houses  two  or  three  women  brine  in 
their  webs  in  the  morning,  fix  their  hooks,  and  weave  all  day, 
while  others,  who  have  not  equal  advantages,  put  their  hooks 
in  the  ground  and  weave  in  the  sunshine.'  The  entire  loom  can 
be  easily  fashioned  with  an  ordinary  knife.  The  Japanese  buy 
the  cloth  for  its  practically  indestructible  quality.  The  Ainu 
Clothing  is  much  like  that  of  the  Japanese  in  form.  In  the 
wintier  the  men  wear  skin  coats  and  hoods,  and  a  sort  of  rude 
moccasin.  Under  this  a  skin  or  bark-cloth  waistcoast  may  or 
may  not  be  worn;  the  coats  reach  a  little  below  the  knee,  fold 
over  from  right  to  left,*  and  are  confined  at  the  waist  by  a  nar- 
row, cloth  girdle,  to  which  is  sometimes  attached  a  rude 
dagger-like  knife,  with  a  crudely  carved  wood  handle  and 
sheath.  The  coat  worn  by  the  women  reaches  halfway  between 
the  knees  and  ankles,  and  is  quite  loose  and  without  a  girdle. 
In  summer,  serviceable  and  attractive  kimonos  of  the  fine  bufif- 
colored  fabric  mentioned  above  are  worn.  Tightly  fitting 
leggins,  either  of  skin  or  of  bark-cloth,  and  sometimes  straw 
sandals,  are  worn  by  both  sexes.  The  primitive  Ainu  woman 
keeps  her  person  scrupulously  and  completely  covered;  those 
who  have  come  under  Japanese  influence  are  negligent  in  the 
matter.  Clothes  for  festive  occasions  are  handsomely  deco- 
rated '  with  various  pleasing  geometrical  patterns  showing 
white  or  red  on  a  blue  ground.  The  women  Jove  brilliant 
crimsons  and  every  shade  of  red,  and  employ  them  whenever 
possible.  When  in  the  forests  and  away  from  their  habitations, 
the  men  often  go  stark  naked,  clad  only  in  their  long  beards 
and  the  hirsute*  leggins  with  which  Nature  has  endowed  some 
of  them  I 

A  few  shaggy,  half- wild,  unshod  horses,  and  some  hunting- 
dogs  with  thick  yellow  pelts  and  disp6sitions  mild  like  those 
of  their  masters,  constitute  the  Ainu  wealth  in  domestic  ani- 
mals. The  men  are  expert  fishermen  and  their  boats  are  sim- 
ilar  in  model  to  those  of  the  Japanese,  excepting  that  they  are 
iuuTower,  more  slender,  and  poinled  aX.  m^  ^x«^\  ^hich  is 


Bear'HunHng.  YEZO  3d9 

aptumed,  sometimes  gaudily  painted,  and  resembles  the  boats 
or  the  early  Norsemen.  In  addition  to  the  Japanese  ro^  or 
sculling  oar,  thev  also  use  kaif  or  slender  side  oars.  Their  nver 
canoes  are  usually  dug  out  of  logs,  sometimes  of  the  wood  of 
the  fine  native  elm  (nire),  but  more  often  from  the  si)lendid 
trunks  of  the  beautiful  Caiapanttx  ridnifolia.  Some  again  con- 
sist of  two  halves  laced  together  with  very  strong  bark-fiber 
along  their  entire  length,  and  with  high  sides  also  laced  on. 
This  fiber-rope  is  excellentlv  made,  and  is  twisted  in  all  sizes 
from  small  but  astonishingly  stout  twine  to  anchor  hawsers. 
Two  men  will  fashion  a  canoe  from  a  rough  log  in  5-6  days. 
These  canoes  may  often  be  seen  ascending  the  Yezo  rivers,  up 
which  the  superb  salmon  goes  to  spawn  in  the  fresh  water  near 
their  source.  The  men  spear  them  with  crude,  barbed  instru- 
ments, or  catch  them  in  hand-nets.  One  man  usually  stands 
at  the  stem  to  propel  the  boat,  while  another  stands  at  the  bow, 
harpoon  in  hand.  Torches  are  used  to  attract  the  fish  at  night, 
and  the  oftentimes  stark-naked  AinUf  hairy,  and  with  flowing 
beard  and  matted  hair,  standing,  his  spear  poised,  under  the 
slare  of  the  sputtering  pine  torch,  is  a  sight  one  does  not  soon 
forget.  The  men  spit  the  fish  with  amazing  accuracy. 

The  Ainu  eat  (with  fingers  and  chop-sticks)  fresh,  salt,  and 
dried  fish,  seaweed,  slugs,  wild  roots,  berries,  the  various  vege- 
tables (usually  made  into  a  stew)  which  they  raise  in  the  little 
garden  about  their  huts;  bear-meat,  venison,  and  a  special 
soup  made  of  a  putty-like  clay,  which  is  boiled  with  the  bulb 
of  an  edible  lily.  The  men  spend  the  autumn,  winter,  and 
spring  in  hunting  deer  and  bear,  the  meat  of  which  they  sub- 
sist upon;  the  skins  are  traded  for  aake^  etc.,  and  are  given  in 
pa3rment  of  taxes.  They  are  valiant  himters,  and  will  tackle 
the  ferocious  brown  Yezo  bear  when  armed  only  with  a  knife 
or  a  bow  and  poisoned  arrows.  The  killing  of  a  big  bear  is 
regarded  as  a  great  feat  both  from  a  religious  and  a  material 
viewpoint,  for  they  worship  the  bear,  but  eat  him  when  cir- 
cumstances favor.  *  Gentle  and  peaceable  as  they  are,  they 
have  a  great  admiration  for  fierceness  and  courage;  and  the 
bear,  which  is  the  strongest,  fiercest,  and  most  courageous 
animal  known  to  them,  has  probably  in  all  ages  inspired  their 
veneration.  Some  of  their  rude  chants  are  in  praise  of  the  bear, 
and  their  highest  eulogy  on  a  man  is  to  compare  him  to  a  bear. 
In  some  Ainu  villages,  especially  near  the  chief's  house,  there 
are  several  tall  poles  with  the  fleshless  skuliof  a  bear  on  the  top 
of  each,  and  in  most  of  the  interior  settlements  there  is  also  a 
large  cage,  made  gridiron  fashion,  of  stout  timbers,  and  raised 
two  or  three  feet  above  the  ground.  Such  cages  sometimes  con- 
tain well-grown  bears,  captured  when  quite  young,  in  the  early 
spring.  After  the  capture,  the  bear  cub  is  introduced  iiito  «k 
welhng-hoiise,  generally  that  of  the  chief,  or  8ub-c\i\eil^  "wlifiKi 
it  jBsuekJed  by  a  woman,  and  played  with  by  the  c\:^wsii,  \S\ 


340  YEZO  Bear  MunHng. 

it  grows  too  big  and  rough  for  domestic  ways.  Then  it  is  placed 
ip  a  strong  cage,  in  which  it  is  fed  and  cared  for,  till  the  autumn 
of  the  -foUowing^year,  when,  being  strong  and  well-grown,  the 
Festival  of  the  Bear  is  celebrated.  The  custopos  of  this  festival 
vary  considerably,  and  the  ipanner  of  the  bear's  death  differs 
lunong  the  mountain  and  coast  Ainu^  but  everywhere  there  is  a 
general  gathering  of  the  people,  and  it  is  the  occasion  of  a  great 
feast,  accompamed  with  much  sake  and  a  curious  dance,  in 
which  men  alone  take  part.  Yells  and  shouts  are  used  to  excite 
the  bear,  and  when  he  becomes  much  agitated  a  chi^  shoots 
him -with  an  arrow,  inflicting  a  slight  wound  which  maddens 
hini,  on  which  the  bars  of  the  cage  are  raised,  and  he  springs 
forth,  very  furious.  At  this  stage,  the  Ainu  run  upon  him  with 
various  weapons,  each  one  striving  to  inflict  a  wound,  as  it 
brings  good  luck  to  draw  blood.  As  soon  as  he  falls  down 
exhausted,  his  head  is  cut  off.  and  the  weapons  with  which  he 
has  been  wounded  are  offered  to  it,  and  he  is  asked  to  avenge 
himself  upoii  them.  Afterwards  the  carcass,  amidst  a  frenzied 
uproar,  is  distributed  among  the  people,  ana  with  feasting  and 
not,  the  head,  placed  upon  a  pole,  is  worshiped,  and  the  festi- 
val closes  with  general  intoxication.' 

Although  Gov't  has  prohibited  the  use  of  poisoned  arrows 
in  bear-hunting,  it  is  believed  that  they  are  still  used  surrepti- 
tiously. When  nunting  a  bear,  the  Ainu  goes  to  his  den  single- 
handed,  and  if  he  cannot  induce  Bruin  to  come  forth  and  settle 
the  matter  in  the  proper  way,  he  crawls  in  after  him  —  a 
dangerous  proceeding!  As  the  bear  rises  to  strike  him,  the  in- 
trepid hunter  dodges  under  his  forepaw,  stabs  him  if  possible, 
then  rushes  round  and  attacks  him  from  the  rear.  Tms  some- 
times prompts  the  bear  to  rush  out  into  the  open  and  seek 
safety  in  flight,  but  as  it  emerges  from  its  den,  a  companion 
on  the  outside  shoots  a  poisoned  arrow  into  him,  and  in  a  few 
moments  the  animal  expires.  The  flesh  around  the  wound  is 
immediately  cut  away,  and  the  poison  does  not  affect  the  rest 
of  the  meat.  Another  method  of  killing  the  bear  is  by  means 
of  a  large  bow,  fixed  across  the  path  in  such  a  way  that  when 
the  bear  walks  over  a  cord  which  is  attached  to  it,  he  is  simul- 
taneously transfixed.  Gov't  has  also  prohibited  the  use  of 
these  arrow-traps,  which  are  a  constant  menace  to  foresters 
and  others.  The  Ainu  bows  are  crude,  about  3  ft.  long,  made  of 
stout  saplings  with  the  bark  on,  and  there  is  no  attempt  to 
shape  or  render  them  elastic.  The  peculiar  arrows  are  fashioned 
in  three  pieces,  the  point  consisting  of  a  sharpened  piece  of 
bone  with  a  cavity  on  one  side  to  hold  the  poison.  *  This  point 
or  head  is  very  slightly  fastened  by  a  lashing  of  bark  to  a  fusi- 
form piece  of  bone  about  4  in.  long,  which  is  in  turn  lashed  to  a 
shaft  about  14  in.  long,  the  other  end  of  which  is*  sometimes 
equipped  with  a  triple  feather.  The  poison  is  placed  in  the 
eloagated  cavity  in  the  head  in  a  ver^  boI\>  «\)«t\^^  ^xid  hardens 


,A%nu  DweUings.  YEZO  841 

afterwards.  In  some  of  the  arrow-heads  half  a  teaspoonful  of 
tJbe  paste  is  mserted.  From  the  nature  of  the  very  sii^t  lash- 
ings which  attach  the  arrow-head  to  the  shaft,  it  remains  fixed 
in  the  slight  wound  that  it  makes,  while  the  shaft  falls  off.'  — 
The  poison  is  made  by  macerating  the  root  of  the  Aconitum 
japonicunif  an  Asiatic  species  of  wolf's-bane,  the  blue  flowers 
of  which  are  prominent  features  in  the  Yezo  landscape.  After 
the  root  has  been  pounded  to  a  pulp  it  is  mixed  with  a  reddish 
earth  and  then  with  animal  fat^  and  becomes  a  stiff,  dark, 
reddish-brown  paste.  It  is  sometunes  buried  before  it  is  used; 
ten  grains  are  sufficiently  virulent  to  kill  a  big  bear  in  ten 
minutes.  The  Ainu  claim  to  know  no  antidote  for  it,  and  if  a 
man  is  wounded  with  one  of  tiie  arrows  tlie  part  must  be  excised 
immediately,  else  death  will  follow. 

Ainu  Dwellings  are  usually  distinguishable  by  their 
thatched  roofs,  which  are  covered  with  several  superimposed 
layers  of  straw  that  produce  a  series  of  ridges,  or  receding  ter- 
races, the  smallest  cap  being  at  the  top.  They  are  usually  of  a 
mongrel  character  when  the  Aint^  village  happens  to  be  near 
that  of  the  Japanese,  but  quite  distinctive  in  the  remote  dis- 
tricts. Custom  does  not  permit  of  either  variety  or  innova- 
tions, while  poverty  dictates  the  interior  furnishings.  Certain 
of  the  houses  at  Shiraot  have  raised  wood  floors,  highly  pol- 
ished, like  those  of  a  comfortable  Japanese  house;  others  being 
gurely  of  mud.  *  The  usual  appearance  is  that  of  a  small  house 
uilt  on  at  the  end  of  a  larger  one.  The  small  house  is  the 
vestibule  or  ante-room,  and  is  entered  by  a  low  doorway 
screened  by  a  heavy  mat  of  reeds.  It  contains  the  large  wooden 
mortar  and  pestle  with  two  ends,  used  for  pounding  millet,  a 
wooden  receptacle  for  millet,  nets  or  hunting-gear,  and  some 
bundles  of  reeds  for  repairing  roof  or  walls.  This  room  never 
contains  a  window.  FYom  it  the  large  room  is  entered  b^  a 
doorway,  over  which  a  heavy  reed  mat,  bound  with  hide, 
invariably  hangs.  This  room  may  be  40  ft.  long  by  25  ft. 
broad,  or  even  40  ft.  sq.;  the  smaller  one  usually  measures  20 
by  15  ft. ;  the  separating  partition  is  usually  of  mud  and  wattle. 
On  entering,  one  is  impressed  by  the  height  and  steepness  of  the 
roof,  altogether  out  of  proportion  to  the  height  of  the  walls.' 
The  dark  hollow  space  of  the  roof  is  often  filled  with  milling 
smoke  seeking  an  outlet,  and  the  superstructure  is  usually 
heavily  coated  with  soot.  When  this  falls  to  the  wood  floor  it  is 
ground  in  and  polished  by  the  constant  sliding  over  it  of  the  oc- 
cupants, with  the  result  that  sometimes  a  floor  may  shine  like 
an  ebony  piano  top.  'The  frame  of  the  house  is  of  posts,  4  ft. 
10  in.  high,  placed  4  ft.  apart,  and  sloping  slightly  inwmtls. 
The  height  of  the  walls  is  apparently  regulated  by  that  of  the 
reeds,  of  which  only  one  length  is  used,  and  which  never  esseed 
4  ft.  10  in.  The  posts  are  scooped  at  the  top.  andYioaN^  l^<ci^ 
zegting  on  the  scoops,  are  laid  along  them  to  torm  ^ke  \x)i^  «&  1&y& 


342  YEZO  Ainu  DwMn§B. 

wall;  1116  posts'  are  again  connected  twice  by  slitter  poles 
tied  on  horizontally.  The  wall  is  double;  the  outer  part  heirtiSL 
formed  of  reeds  tied  very  neatly  to  the  framework  in  small, 
regular  bundles,  the  inner  layer  or  wall  bein^  made  of  i^eeds 
attached  singly.  From  the  top  of  the  pole,  which  is  secured  to 
-the  top  of  the  posts,  the  framework  of  the  roof  rises  to  a  hei^t 
of  22  ft.,  made,  like  the  rest,  of  poles  tied  to  a  heavy  and 
roughly  hewn  beam.  At  one  end  under  the  ridge-beam  there 
is  a  large  triangular  aperture  for  the  exit  of  smoke.  Two  very 
stout,  roughly  hewn  beams  cross  the  width  of  the  house,  rest- 
ing on  the  posts  of  the  wall,  and  on  props  let  into  the  floor,  and 
a  number  of  poles  are  laid  at  the  same  height,  by  means  of 
which  a  secondary  roof  formed  of  mats  can  be  at  once  extem- 
porized, but  this  is  only  used  for  guests.  These  poles  answer 
the  same  purpose  as  shelves.  Very  great  care  is  bestowed  upon 
the  outside  of  the  roof,  which  is  neat  and  sometimes  pretty, 
and  has  the  appearance  of  a  series  of  frills,  being  thatched  in 
ridges.  The  ridge-pole  is  very  thickly  covered,  and  the  thatch 
both  there  and  at  the  comers  is  elaborately  laced  with  a  pat- 
tern in  strong  peeled  twigs.  The  poles,  which,  for  much  of  the 
room,  run  from  wall  to  wall,  compel  one  to  stoop,  to  avoid 
fracturing  one's  skull,  and  bringing  down  spears,  bows  and 
arrows,  arrow-traps,  and  other  primitive  property.  The  roof 
and  rafters  are  black  and  shiny  from  wood  smoke.  Immediately 
under  them,  at  one  end  and  one  side,  are  small,  square  win- 
dows, which  are  closed  at  night  by  wooden  shutters,  which 
during  the  day  hang  by  ropes.  Notlung  is  a  greater  insult  to  an 
Ainu  than  to  look  in  at  his  window. 

*0n  the  left  of  the  doorway  is  invariably  a  fixed  wooden 
platform,  18  in.  high,  and  covered  with  a  single  mat,  which  is 
the  sleeping-place.  The  pillows  are  small  stiff  bolsters,  cov- 
ered with  ornamental  matting.  If  the  family  be  large  there  are 
several  of  these  sleeping  platforms.  A  pole  runs  horizontallv 
at  a  fitting  distance  above  the  outside  edge  of  each,  over  which 
mats  are  thrown  to  conceal  the  sleepers  from  the  rest  of  the 
room.  The  inside  half  of  these  mats  is  plain,  but  the  outside, 
which  is  seen  from  the  room,  has  a  diamond  pattern  woven 
into  it  in  dull  reds  and  browns.  The  whole  floor  is  covered 
with  a  very  eoarse  reed-mat,  with  interstices  half  an  inch  wide. 
The  fireplace,  which  is  6  ft.  long^  is  oblong.  Above  it,  on  a  very 
black  and  elaborate  framework,  hangs  a  very  black  and  shiny 
mat,  whose  superfluous  soot  forms  the  basis  of  the  stain  used 
in  tattooing,  and  whose  apparent  purpose  is  to  prevent  smoke 
ascending,  and  to  diffuse  it  equally  throughout  the  room. 
Ftom  this  framework  pends  the  great  cooking-pot,  which  plays 
A  most  important  part  in  Ainu  ecoBonvy . 
^Household  gods  form  an  eesentaalL  paiV.  ol  ^^  IxmsaAAskSi, 
^  every  house.  Usually,  at  the  \eH  ol  \)afc  «^\x«ft»ei,  >5X«sc^ 
Are  ten  white  wands,  with  shaSnugp  peii^m?,  ^^^^  ^^  ^W« 


AinuReligian,  TEZO  843 

end,  stuck  in  the  wall;  another  projecta  from  the  window 
which  faces  the  sunrise,  and  the  great  god,  a  white  post,  2  ft. 
high,  with  spirab  of  shavings  depending  from  the  top,  is  always 
planted  in  the  floor,  near  the  wall,  on  the  left  side,  opposite 
the  fire,  between  the  platform  bed  of  the  householder  and  the 
low,  broad  shelf  placed  invieiriably  on  the  same  side.  Eiccept 
in  the  poorest  houses,  where  the  people  cannot  afford  to  lay 
down  a  mat  for  a  guest,  they  cover  the  coarse  mat  with  fine 
ones  on  each  side  of  the  fire.  These  mats  and  the  bark-cloth 
are  really  their  only  manufactures.  They  are  made  of  fine 
reeds,  with  a  pattern  in  dull  reds  or  browns,  and  are  14  ft. 
long  by  3  ft.  6  in.  wide.  It  takes  a  woman  8  days  to  make  one. 
In  every  house  there  are  one  or  two  movable  platforms  6  ft; 
by  4  and  14  in.  high,  which  are  placed  at  the  head  of  the 
fir^lace,  and  on  which  guests  sit  and  sleep  on  a  bearskin  oi* 
a  fine  mat.  In  many  houses  there  are  broad  seats  a  few  inches 
high,  on  which  the  elder  men  sit  cross-legged,  as  their  custom 
is,  not  squatting  Japanese  fashion  on  the  heels.  A  water-tub 
idways  rests  on  a  stand  by  the  door,  and  the  dried  fish  and 
venison  or  bear  for  daily  use  hang  from  the  rafters,  as  well  as 
a  few  skins.  Besides  these  things  there  are  a  few  absolute 
necessities,  —  lacquer  or  wooden  bowls  for  food  and  safce, 
a  chopping-board  and  rude  chopping-knife,  a  cleft  stick  for 
burning  stripe  of  birch-bark,  a  triply-cleft  stick  for  supporting 
the  potsherd  in  which,  on  rare  occasions,  they  bum  a  wick 
with  oil;  the  component  parts  of  their  rude  loom,  the  bark 
of  which  they  make  their  clothes,  and  the  reeds  of  which  they 
make  their  mats.  A  penetrating,  carrionr-Iike  odor  of  fish- 
oil  not  unfrequently  hangs  around  an  Ainu  coast  settlement 
and  is  apt  to  make  the  foreigner  who  cannot  accustom  him- 
self to  it,  uncomfortable.  The  pots  in  which  the  oil  is  tried  out 
are  generally  to  be  found  between  the  houses  and  the  beach. 
Here,  or  at  the  side  of  the  dwelling-houses,  one.  will  also  note 
the  storehouses  —  large,  square  boxes  at  the  top  of  four  high 
poles  —  in  which  meat,  etc.,  is  stored  out  of  reach  of  the 
dogs. 

*There  cannot  be  anything  more  vague  and  destitute  of 
cohesion  than  Ainu  religious  notions.    With  the  exception  of 
the  hill  shrines  of  Japanese  construction  dedictated  to  Yoshii- 
8une  (whom  the  Ainu  believe  lived  among  them  for  many 
years,  taught  their  fathers  the  arts  of  civilization,  with  letters 
and  numbers,  and  gave  them  righteous  laws,  for  which  reason 
he  is  worshiped  among  them  under  a  name  which  signifies 
Master  of  the  Law)  they  have  no  temples,  and  they  have 
neither  priests,  sacrifices,  nor  worship.    ApparenlVy ,  aSotqw^ 
aH  traditional  time,  their  culius  has  been  the  Tud«B\,  «w^  xao^X. 
piinutive  form  of  nature-worship,  the  attachm^  ol  a.  v«j©3l^ 
aacrednesa  to  trees,  rivers,   rocks,  and  mouxvtamB,  axA  o\ 
r^gue  notiona  of  power  for  good  or  evil  to  t\ie  sea,  tW  iox^^X, 


844  YEZO  Ainu  AmumnmiU. 

the  fire,  and  the  sun  and  moon.  The  outward  symbols  oi  their 
religion,  corresponding  most  likely  with  the  Shintd  gohei, 
are  wands  and  posts  of  peeled  wood^  whittled  nearly  to  the  tip, 
from  which  the  pendent  shaving  fall  down  in  white  curls. 
These  are  not  only  set  up  in  their  houses,  sometimes  to  the 
number  of  twenty,  but  on  precipices,  banks  of  rivers  and 
streams,  and  mountain  passes,  and  such  wands  are  thrown 
into  the  rivers  as  the  boatmen  descend  rapids  and  dangerous 
places.  They  have  no  definite  idea  concerning -a  future  state, 
and  such  notions  as  they  have  are  few  and  confused.  Some 
think  that  the  spirits  of  tneir  friends  go  into  wolves  and  snakes; 
others,  that  they  wander  about  the  forests;  and  they  are 
niuoh  afraid  of  ^osts.  A  few  think  that  they  go  to  a  good 
or  a  bad  place  according  to  their  deeds.  They  appear  to  have 
certain  rude  ideas  of  metempsychosis,  as  is  evidenced  bv  their 
prayer  to  the  bear  and  certain  rude  traditions,  but  whether 
these  are  indigenous,  or  have  arisen  by  contact  with  Bud- 
dhism at  a  later  period,  it  is  impossible  to  say.'  The^  have  a 
decided  regard  for  the  truth,  and  they  are  mentioned  as 

?unctiliously  honest,  and  truthful  to  a  surprising  de^'ee.  — 
he  chief  act  of  Ainu  worship  is  to  drink  sake.  This  is  sup- 
posed to  please  the  gods,  and  the  drunker  an  Ainu  ^ts  the 
better  the  gods  are  pleased.  This  gives  rise  to  their  most 
serious  and  deadly  vice;  the  aim  is  to  be  stupidly  drunk  as 
often  and  as  long  as  possible.  They  ferment  an  intoxicating 
liquor  from  the  root  of  a  tree  and  also  from  their  own  millet 
and  Japanese  rice,  but  the  Japanese  sake  is  the  one  thing  that 
they  care  about.  'They  spend  all  their  gains  upon  it,  and  drink 
it  in  enormous  quantities.  It  represents  to  them  all  the  good 
of  which  they  know,  or  can  conceive.  Men  and  women  alike 
indulge  in  this  vice.  The  Ainu  have  few  amusements,  except 
certain  feasts.  Their  dance  is  slow  and  mournful^  and  their 
songs  are  chants  or  recitative.  They  have  a  musical  instru- 
ment, something  like  a  guitar,  with  3,  5,  or  6  strings,  which 
are  made  from  sinews  of  whales  cast  up  on  the  shore.  Another 
one,  believed  to  be  peculiar  to  themselves,  consists  of  a  thin 
piece  of  wood,  about  5  in.  long  by  2  J  in.  broad,  with  a  pointed 
wooden  tongue,  about  2  lines  in  breadth  and  16  in  length, 
fixed  in  the  middle  and  grooved  on  3  sides.  The  wood  is  held 
before  the  mouth,  and  the  tongue  is  set  in  motion  by  the  vibra- 
tion of  the  breath  in  singing.  Its  sound,  though  less  penetrating, 
is  as  discordant  as  that  of  a  Jew's  harp,  which  it  somewhat  re- 
sembles. They  are  unwilling  to  part  with  them,  as  thev  sav 
it  is  very  seldom  that  they  can  find  a  piece  of  wood  which  wiU 
bear  the  fine  splitting  necessary  for  the  tongue.' 

The  people  have  a  dread  of  death.  *  When  it  comes,  which 

it  usually  aoes  from  bronchitis  in  old  age,  the  corpse  is  dressed 

In  its  beat  c/othing,  and  laid  upon  a  shelf  for  from  one  to 

three  daya.  In  the  case  of  a  womaii  Yiei  oiT^iakTKv^TkXa  oxe  buried 


HAKODATE  19.  Bmde.    345 

with  her,  and  in  that  of  a  man  his  knife  and  sdbe-stick,  and, 
if  he  were  a  Smoker,  his  smokiiig-amianituB.  The  corpse  is 
sewn  up  with  these  things  in  a  mat,  imd,  being  slung  on  poles, 
is  carried  to  a  solitaiy  g^ve,  where  it  is  laid  in  a  recumboit 
position.  Nothipg  wul  induce  an  Ainu  to  go  near  a  grave. 
A  vague  dread  is  f<»ever  associated  with  the  departed7  and 
no  dream  of  Paradise  ever  lights  for  the  Ainu  the  **  Stygian 
shades.''  living,  they  have  no  history,  and  perishing  mey 
leave  no  monum^it.'  The^r  possess  no  alphabet  and  no  writ- 
ten language.  Their  traditions  are  oral.  They  say  their  an- 
cestors had  books  ^diich  the  Japanese  took  from  them,  which 
is  unlikely.  It  is  said  the^r  can  count  up  to  one  thousand.  The 
dialect  is  rude  and  limited,  and  is  thought  to  belong  to 
the  Altaic  family  of  languages-  The  Japanese  learn  it  quickly. 
A  few  of  the  Ainu  Bpeti.  a  ctipped  Japanese,  but  their  knowl- 
edge of  other  languages  is  nit.  The  names  of  many  places 
on  the  Yezo  map  are  Ainu,  and  the  traveler  will  note  that 
many  of  the  woitls  end  in  beU,  beUu,  or  pets  or  petoti,  'riv^; 
as:  Ncbcrirbetsuj  Mountain  river.  Man  in  the  dialect  is  Ainu 
(also  okkai)]  wife  is  matchi;  boy,  cuspo;  good-by,  saramba; 
village,  kotan;  bear,  hokuyak;  b^ird,  Hcksha;  eye,  shki;  male, 
binne;  female,  matni;  and  so  on.  —  A  museum  containing 
Ainu  relics  stands  in  Sapporo,  and  there  is  also  a  ooUection 
fai  the  Imperial  Museum  in  Uyeno,  at  T5kv5.  —  Rev.  J. 
BaJtcheloTy  an  erudite  missionary  who  has  dwelt  long  among 
the  Ainu,  is  perhaps  the  greatest  authority  on  them.  Of 
the  360  or  more  books  that  have  been  written  (in  various 
languages)  about  the  Ainu,  the  student  will  perhaps  find 
all  he  may  wish  in:  The  Ainu  of  Japan;  Ainu  Folk- Lore; 
Seorgirt  Yezo;  The  KoTopok-GvrUy  or  PU  IhveUers  of  N. 
Japan;  A  Grammar  of  the  Ainu  Language;  An  Ainu-English' 
Japanese  Dictionary;  and  numerous  monographs  on  the 
Ainu,  all  by  the  authority  mentioned  above. 

ZQ.  Hakodate  and  its  Environs. 

Azmal  at  Hakodate.  The  steamBhipe  of  the  Imperial  Japanese  Gov't 
Rlys.  inward  bound  from  Aomori  (p.  318)  proceed  up  Hakodate  Bay  to  the 
hubor  at  the  S.E.  end  (comp.  the  accompanying  plan),  where  they  go  along- 
side the  pier  and  land  passengers.  The  rly.  station  near  by  is  aiXMit  2  M. 
(20  min.)  from  that  part  (S.W.)  of  the  port  (PI.  B,  3)  where  the  chief  inns, 
banks,  shops,  commlates,  etc.,  arc  located,  and  for  the  convenience  of  for- 
eigners, a  steam  tug  belonging  to  the  line  usually  meets  incoming  ships  and 
t^Des  passengers  (from  the  end  of  the  pier)  to  a  landini^  (10  nun.)  at  the 
light.  Other  ships  usually  anchor  about  i  M.  offshore,  in  5-6  fathoms  of 
water.  Sampans  from  20  sen  up,  according  to  the  amount  of  luggage. 
Travelers  may  save  a  squabble  by  coming  to  a  clear  understanding  as  to 
price  before  hiring  boats  (or  anything  else  in  Yeso),  as  people  of  almost 
every  class  have  an  exaggerated  idea  of  the  value  of  their  services  or 
merchandise.  The  customs  officers  inspect  only  those  ships  arriving  direct 
from  foreign  ports.  Passengers  proceeding  from  the  pier  to  the  rly .  t^AA\oTi 
(i  M.)  will  find  red-capped  porters  and  hand-carta  to  tak&  iYie\t  ViiiKB4K^\ 
prices  are  double  those  cuatomary  in  Japan  proper. 
Jtau  (comp.  p.  xxxjv).  KUo;  Kakucho;  KcU9iUa  Hotel,  etc.,  «ML^iXid«t  i».VJw^ 


^i6    Bauie  19.  HAKODATE 

management.  The  latter,  (not  recommended)  has  a  few  poor,  dark  rooms 
without  conveniences,  bui  equipped  with  foreign  beds  for  which  ¥2-3  per 
person  per  hight  is  demabded.  Food  is  extra,  and  such  unusual  things  as 
tO'v^eJs,  butter  (bad),  and  bread  (poor)  are  charged-  for  heavily.  .Prices  are 
apt  to  be  quoted  in  a  vague  way,  and  travelers  should  reach  a  dear  under- 
standing with  the  innkeeper  before  engaging  rooms,  and  should  be  sure  the 
understanding  is  mutual.  They  should  also  be  on  thar  guard  agailiat  extor- 
tionate prices.  The  native  food  at  the  other  inns  0F4-5  per  day  inclusive) 
b. usually  better  than  the  alleged  'foreign'  stuff  at  the  KcUstUa  Hotel. 

Jinrikis  (p.  Ixxxviii^  compete  with  the  cheap  and  convenient  tramways, 
and  dogs  help  the  laneet  of  the  runners  to  pull  their  vehicles  through  the 
streets.  Prices  are  rismg  steadily;  per  mile,  20  sen;  per  hr.»  40  sen-  (26% 
extra  for -a  vehicle  seating  2  pers.,  and  40%  extra  in  bad  weather).  A  full 
luggage-cart  from  the  station  to  the  hotel,  50  sen. 

Banks  (oomp.  p.  xxiii)  where  Letters  of  Credit,  Drafts,  etc.,  can  be  cashed, 
or  money  exchanged:  Nippon  Oinkdi  69,  Toyo-kawa-ch6  (PL  CJ.  3). — 
Hokkaidd  Takuahoku  Oinko  (Hokkaidd  Colonisation  Bank,  Lta.),-  22, 
Funaba-chd. 

Consols  (consult  the  Japan  Direct<»y  for  addresses)  are  accredited  from 
Great  Britam,  the  United  States,  Austna-Hungary,  Germsmy,  Norway,  tuad. 
Russia, 

Shops  (comp.  p.  cxii).  At  the  Maiatiahita  Kumatsuchi  Shoten,  63,  Siijrehiro- 
ehd  (PL  B;  3);  one  can  sometimes  get  good  griszly-bear  skins  (prices  flexible), 
wid  Iberian  furs.  The  curio-shops  are  uninteresting,  as  the  Ainu  make 
nothing  the  traveler  wants.  Japanese  products  can  be  bought  to  better 
advantage  in  T5ky6,  Yokohama,  or  Kyoto. 

Steamships:  The  Nippon  Ywen  Kaisha,  19,  Funaba^ho  (PI.  C,  3),  run 
comfortable  boats  to  most  of  the  island  ports,  and  to  Saghalien.  For  sail- 
ing dates,  cost  of  passage,  etc.,  consult  the  company's  booklets. 

Hakodate  (hahrko'dah^'tay)^  a  new,  flourishing  frontier- 
like  city  with  21,000  houses  and  91,000  inhabs.,  stands  near 
the  southernmost  point  of  Yezo  Island,  in  the  province  of 
Oshima,  facing  the  Tsugaru  Strait^  in  E.  long.  140°  44'  and 
N.  lat.  41°  47'  —  practically  that  of  Chicago  or  Rome.  It 
extends  for  nearly  4  M.  along  the  curving  shore  of  Hakodate 
Bay  and  possesses  post-  and  telegraph-offices,  a  number  of 
schools,  a  big  prison,  a  marine  museum,  several  foreign 
churches,  a  meteorological  station,  and  enough  energy  to 
convert  it  eventually  into  a  much  larger  and  more  populous 
port.  It  is  the  financial  center  of  the  E.  section  of  the  Hok- 
fcaido,  and  its  imports  and  exports  run  into  large  figures. 
The  native  business  quarter  clusters  near  the  riy.  station 
(PL  D,  2)  and  is  uninteresting.  Not  far  from  it  is  a  small 
but  pretty  Public  (jf  arden  overlooking  the  sea,  while  stretch- 
ing to  the  right  is  the  attractive  foreign  settlement  backed 
by  a  range  of  lofty  fortified  hills  (forts  closed  to  visitors) 
referred  to  collectively  as  the  Peak,  and  as  Hakodate  Head. 
The  general  situation  reminds  one  of  Hongkong  or  Cape 
Town;  the  resemblance  to  the  latter  being  accentuated  by  the 
host  of  wild  flowers  which  grow  in  the  vicinity.  A  succession 
of  wide,  fairly  clean  (wind-swept)  streets  lead  up  from  the 
bay  to  the.  pine  groves  on  the  slopes  of  these  hills,  and  are 
crossed  at  nght  angles  by  higher  and  more  attractive  thor- 
oughfares flanked  oy  substantial  dwellings  like  those  of 
Shanghai.  The  views  from  "some  of  these  vantage-points  are 
sMpe^h,  aJid  embrace  tjic  city  and  bay ,  ^Ax^  ^a.^^^iaesR  Vwn,  on 


The  Bay.  .  HAKODATE  W.  Route.    347 

the  N.  side  kA  the  sand-pit,  and  the  lofty  mts.  of  the  intt'rior. 
The  groves  which  gird  the  hills  serve  as  a  sort  of  Hn>oklyn 
for  many  rascally  crows  that  help  the  streot-oloaninR  (le|>art- 
ment  and  are  as  much  in  evidence  (and  just  as  vociforoun) 
as  those  of  certain  towns  of  British  India.  Hero  tUey  fore- 
gather at  eventide,  and  before  they  settle  thcinm^lvcH  for  the 
night  their  ill-humored  wrangling  scandalizoj!)  the  ntughlNir- 
hood.  Wandering  Ainu  are  seen  occasionally  in  Hahniatey 
usually  in  the  vicmity  of  the  docks.  The  watcr-fn)nt  pniHrut^ 
an  architectural  hodge-podge  which  representH  Jiu)iiiu'iH', 
French,  German,  American,  Russian,  ICiiglisli,  and  ( 'hiuoso 
ideas  of  comfort  adapted  to  a  winter  climate  considerably 
colder  than  that  of  Japan  proper.  Corrugated  tin  roofn, 
iron  stovepipes  encased  in  square  stone  collars  and  projecting 
through  wmdows  to  the  street,  and  snow-sleds  hanging  against 
the  houses  underneath  the  eaves  are  things  one  does  not  sec 
in  Honshu.  Most  of  the  streets  lack  sidewalks,  and  when 
they  are  not  deep  in  mud  or  dust,  they  are  usually  v^owrvA 
with  snow  or  ice.  Signs  placed  at  intervals  throughout  the 
city  warn  strangers  that  it  lies  within  the  stratcjgie  zone  and 
that  the  War  Department  will  be  rude  to  all  and  jfundry  wlio 
photograph,  sketch,  survey,  or  record  impressions  of  larxl  or 
sea  within  a  radius  of  3500  ken  (al>out  4  M.).  Tlie  local  au- 
thorities evidently  believe  in  signs,  for  they  have  plm;fMl 
them  at  many  points  and  have  loaued  them  with  '  Don' is ' 
intended  for  the  oommonalty.  Those  in  the  park  are  worth 
looking  at.  The  neiiiTiess  ana  mayhap  the  cr>ftfnofx>liian  char- 
acter of  the  Hokkaido  has  not  improvcid  llakittlnUi'H  Fourtli 
Estate,  which  appears  to  lack  the  culture  and  gentl(;rieHH  of 
true  Japanese. 

The  Public  Garden  (PI.  C,  4)  contains  the  Oiurt-Ilous^i 
(Saibansho)f  the  Public  Library  (Tosh/jkwan)f  and  a  sniall 
Fisheries  ]\Iuseum  (open  from  8  to4 ; 2  nen),  TlietShirUd  JthririnH 
which  iitand  at  inter\'als  along  the  sliouldfir  of  the  ridge  U^iirid 
the  port  are  interesting  only  for  the  fine  views  obtairuAbl'f 
from  their  elevated  situation.  The  ririnking-w;Ater  Oiot 
recommends] y  is  brought  (7  M.>  fnmi  the  Ahigaua;  tii<r 
waUfrworkfi  were  installed  in  1889.  —  The  suburt/s  offt-r  but 
lit  lie  of  interest  to  the  jftranger;  a  kx^ally  ^Mipnlur  r'^^rt, 
YMno-kawa  Hot  Springj!  ^  Hf/mei  H'Mlj  ¥/#>,  4i  M.  K.  ^S  the 
town  'tram-cars  ever>'  \  hr.,  10  *^n>,  is  near  tlj<j  old  fJf/ryo- 
baJm  Fon  fa  relic  of  Tohjuyi^xa  Uiunn).  \UzXv>*if*.ii  it  at  A  xia-. 
city  is  the  penitentiarj*  and  a  nwr-tra/rk.  The  IjihuH;  t/t 
which  maTiV  go  in  summer,  arr?  Tfi(rn^\'ttk<A  in  Kt/'.  24. 

Hakodate  Bay  ^5  b>'  4  M.  ,  the  l^ie^t  in  Yitut  ^with  Vl^  \T, 
ia:ihrjws  of  -^ax'rr,.  is  eTiXf;r«r^  af  the  W,  Jy?tw'>n   HahjfiaJk 

&n^rhfjT    below    tJbMr    Iilltli    pefliTifriUi    WTimIi    \tUAM^%if. 

bosD  the  strong  nxtf  at  the  E.,  tte  H1«x\,  v.  \^^smuih 


348    RmUe  20.        HAKODATE  TO  MURORAN 

suggestive  of  Alaska  or  the  Far  North.  Dense  masses  of  fog 
often  lie  over  the  bay  between  May  and  October,  and  biting 
winds  howl  across  it  from  early  fall  to  late  spring.  During 
this,  period  snow  often  lies  4  ft.  deep  in  the  Hakodate  streets 
and  many  sleighs  are  brought  into  service.  There  is  a  wire- 
less station  at  Hakodate  Head^  and  a  submarine  cable  (which 
crosses  Tsugaru  Strait)  at  the  bottom  of  the  bay  (vxm)» 
The  harbor-works  under  construction  will  cost  12  million  ffen. 
The  shore-front  is  often  fringed  with  a  forest  of  masts  rising 
from  sea-going  junks  of  many  classes  —  the  carriers  of  the 
thousands  of  tons  of  salmon  which  enter  and  leave  the  port 
each  year. 

According  to  the  consular  reports  500  or  more  sailing-vessels  and  steam- 
ers leave  Hakodate  every  summer  for  Kamc?uUkat  SaghalUn,  and  other 
points  in  the  North  Seas,  and  return  with  catches  valued  at'\approximate)y 
20  mUlion  tjen.  After  extracting  the  roe  and  shipping  it  to  Russia  as  true 
caviar,  the  Russian  merchants  seU  the  rejected  fish  at  almost  any  price.  The 
value  of  those  thus  toeated  reaches  3  million  yen  a  year. 

ao.  From  Hakodate  vid  Onuma,  Otaru,  Sapporo,  Iwamizawa, 
Oiwake,  Shiraoi  and  Noboribetsu  to  Muroran. 

Hakodate  and  Muroran  Lines  of  the  Imperial  Japanese  Government  Railways, 

This  practically  circular  route  will  enable  the  hurried  traveler 
to  get  a  cimsory  view  of  Sapporo ^  the  capital  city;  the  interior 
of  the  island;  an  Ainu  Village;  and  Muroran,  and  it  includes 
a  short  steamer  trip  across  the  beautiful  Volcano  Bay.  Those 
whose  time  is  unlimited  are  recommended  to  supplement  it 
with  the  trip  to  Kushiro  (described  hereinafter)  and  that 
to  Wakkanaif  onSoyaStraitf  at  the  extreme  northernmost  point 
of  the  island.  All  are  off  the  regular  beaten  tracks  of  travel, 
and  all  are  replete  with  interest.  Picturesque,  romantically 
beautiful  Japan  is  seen  here  in  another  form;  stem,  gray,  cold, 
and  rugged;  primeval  men  in  a  primeval  wilderness.  The  re- 
gion bears  more  or  less  the  same  relation  to  Japan  proper 
that  Canada  does  to  Florida;  with  its  semi- Arctic  fauna  and 
flora,  magnificent  scenery,  and  invigorating  climate;  but 
rendered  doubly  interesting  by  the  mysterious,  pre-historic 
Ainu. 

Several   trains   leave    Hakodate   daily  for  179  M.  Sapporo^  and  way- 
stations;  tune,  about  10  hrs.;  fare,  ¥5.70,  1st  el.;  ¥  3.42,  2d  d.  The  best 
plan  is  to  board  an  early  traizi,  about  6  a.m.,  as  this  reaches  Sapporo  in  the 
afternoon,  and  gives  one  the  advantage  of  a  daylight  ride  all  the  way.     Best 
views  from  the  left  side  of  the  train.    The  bento  (p.  Ixxxiv)  sold  at  several  of 
the  large  stations  (20  sen)  is  superior  to  that  in  many  other  places  in  Japan 
proper  —  good  salted  salmon  forming  a  chief  ingredient.     Delicious  solidi- 
fied jams,  or  marmalade,  made  of  apples  (ringoyo),  strawberries  (ichioo- 
yokan),  and  the  like,  are  sold  (15-25  sen)  in  tasteful  wooden  boxes  at  certain 
of  the  stations;  and  with  the  excellent  nee  and  hot  milk  they  make  satisfac- 
tory snacks  by  the  wayside.    Hot  tea  and  bento  are  usually  sold  in  the 
buifets  on  the  trains.    The  cars  for  Sapporo  may  bo  marked  Asahigawa.  The 
hotel  at  Sapporo  is  the  best  on  the  island,  and  one  can  pass  the  night  very 
oomfortahly  and  continue  the  joumey  eiiheT  the  following  morning  or  (Jbe 
one  after  it.    A  day  can  be  spent  to  adv«nXa«&  \xi  ^i^poro  ~  «« handeome 
town  with  pleaaing  featutto. 


ONUMA  lake  20.  Route.    340 

From  HakodaU  to  Murcran  (291  M.  beyond  Sapporo)  is  470  M.  Traim 
make  the  journey  in  about  12  hn.  (from  Sapporo);  fare  from  the  latter 
place,  ¥8.03,  1st  cl.;  ¥4.82,  2d  cl.  By  boarding  an  early  morning  train  one 
eaoBL  readi  the  Ainu  village  of  Shiraoi  early  in  the  aitemoon,  inspect  it 
between  trains,  and  proceed  to  JVo6ori6etoi«,  which  can  be  reached  early  in 
the  evening.  An  hour  or  two  the  next  a.m.  will  suffice  for  this,  and  by  return- 
ing to  the  riy.  and  proceeding  to  Maroran,  one  may  devote  a  little  tune  there 
before  boarding  the  steamer  for  Hakodate  (or  Aomori). 

Hakodate  (see  above).  After  the  tawdry  suburbs  are  passed 
the  train  crosses  a  rolhng  country  of  baid  roads,  and  maise 
plots  larger  than  one  sees  in  S.  Japan.  Shaggy  ponies  laden 
with  creels  of  vegetables  for  the  city  markets  amble  along 
the  muddy  highways;  the  wretched  huts  of  the  natives  seem 
peculiarly  imfitted  to  withstand  the  rigors  of  a  severe  winter. 
In  spring,  a  host  of  wild  flowers  deck  the  hills,  which  are  en- 
livened here  and  there  by  ^at  color  blotches  made  by  the 
yellow  coreopsis.  The  unmteresting  station  of  Nanae  is 
near  the  site  of  one  of  the  earliest  Gov't  Experimental  Farms 
established  on  the  island.  The  peasants  one  sees  working  in 
the  fields  look  like  animated  bundles  of  rags  —  each  man  serv- 
ing as  his  own  scarecrow.  From  11  M.  Hongd  the  line 
ascends  over  a  stiffish  grade  into  wooded  hills,  whence  one 
commands  wide  vistas  over  fields  brilliant  with  purple  iris 
and  other  flowers.  Lovely  features  of  the  landscape  are  the 
beautiful  green  bushes  of  the  elderberry  (NivxUoko)  laden 
with  crimson  berries  that  form  striking  contrasts  with  the 
glossy  leaves.  —  Bevond  the  TdgeskUa  Tunnel  (2614  ft.  long) 
two  shallow  lakes,  the  favcnite  resorts  of  the  HakocUUe  people, 
come  into_view. 

16  M.  Onuma  (Inn:  Taiseikwan.  ¥4),  and  17  M.  OnunM" 
koen.  Onuma  Lake  (boats  to  hire)  is  contiguous  to  Junsai- 
nunuif  which  derives  its  name  from  the  pretty  waxen  lilies  or 
water-buckler  (Bra^enia  peltata)  that  idealize  its  surface  and 
are  gathered  for  their  edible  roots.  The  near-by  volcano 
of  Komagatake  (or  Oshima  Fuji^  38(X)  ft.)  is  usually  ascended 
from  this  point  (guide,  ¥3  for  the  round  trip).  The  trail 
leads  over  scoria;  the  boiling  pools  in  the  crater  (last  eruption 
in  1856)  are  inferior  to  those  of  NohorihetsUy  and  the  views  are 
but  a  trifle  wider  than  those  more  easily  obtained  from  the 
highest  hill  behind  Hakodate.  The  ravines  of  the  lower  slopes 
are  choked  with  wild  flowers,  prominent  among  them  white 
hydrangeas. 

The  crest  of  the  ridge  is  reached  at  Komagatake  Station 
(570  ft.),  whence  the  train  descends  over  the  Hime-gavxi  to 
a  tangled  valley,  then  skirts  the  shore  of  Volcano  Bay.  30 
M.  Mori  (Inn:  Yamaka,  ¥3),  an  unkempt,  evil-smelling 
fishing-village,  is  sometimes  made  the  port  of  embarkation 
for  24  M.  Muroran  (in  3  hrs.;  fare,  ^.10,  Japanese  food) 
on  the  opposite  shore.  The  small  steamers  usually  VeK^^ 
twice  daily,  from  the  pier  at  the  right  of  the  r\y .  etatioii.  "TVift 
TarUakp-gaim,  which  Bowa  by  the  town  on  the  "N.,  \a  a\wss^ 


850    Rie.  eo,  SHIRIBESHI-YAMA 

fluvial  route  down  which  logs  coime  from  the  interior^  .  Scores 
of  mats  covered  with  putrifying  fish  adorn  the  sea  beach,  and 
the  smell  hangs  heavily  over  the  vicinity.  For  some  miles 
the  rly.  follows  the  contour  of  the  shore,  passing  forlorn  ham- 
lets, whose  roofs  are  held  down  by  hundreds  of  cobbles;  the 
people  have  no  passion  for  pulchritude,  and  the  cleansing 
qualities  of  the  broad  ocean  that  stretches  away  at  their  feet 
are  apparently  unknown.  Many  of  the  fishing-boats  are 
painted  in  gaudy  colors;  have  long,  upturned  stems  like  Malay 
proas  or  those  of  the  Vikings;  and  are  hauled  up  on  the  beadb 
by  primitive  capstans  worked  by  half  a  score  villagers. 

Beyond  38  M.  Ishikura  tlie  rly.  turns  inland  and  crosses 
an  upland  plain  sown  to  potatoes  and  maize,  only  to  return 
later  to  the  shore.  The  bright  blue  ocean  dimples  in  the  sim- 
ethine,  and  the  half^wild  horses  that  graze  on  the  silent  land 
add  a  primeval  note  to  it.  Beyond  70  M.  Oshiyamamhe  the 
line  crosses  territory  as  wild,  as  wooded,  and  as  lonely  as 
Kentucky  must  have  been  when  Daniel  Boone  first  saw  it. 
Ixmg  snow-sheds  alternate  with  tunnels  and  tangled  jungles, 
in  which  small  clearings  have  been  made  and  where  rough 
settlers  may  sometimes  be  seen  washing  river-sand  in  search 
of  gold.  Magnificent  trees,  wild  fiowers,  and  wild  grapes  are 
everywhere.  Fine  streams  rush  beneath  the  lofty  forest  trees, 
and  one  sees  an  occasional  fisherman  thigh-deep  in  them,  or 
perched  on  a  mid-stream  boulder  whipping  for  the  fine  trout 
with  which  the  Yezo  rivers  abound.  Beyond  117  M.  Hirafu, 
in  Shiribeshi  Province,  the  fine  Shiriheshi-yama  (8000  ft.), 
often  called  the  Yezo,  and  the  Hokkaido  Fujiy  comes  into 
the  range  of  vision  (ri^ht)  and  marks  the  highest  point  in 
Yezo.  In  the  deep  ravmes  on  its  sides  the  snow  lingers  till 
late  in  July.  After  threading  a  tunnel  and  crossing  the  Shiri- 
hetsu-gawaf  the  line  ascends  over  a  gentle  slope  to  Kutsuchian 
(Inn:  Karida^  ¥4),  a  new  town  on  a  plain  reclaimed  from  the 
forests  The  imposing  mt.  is  now  seen  to  good  advantage  at 
the  right,  the  eye  sweeping  up  from  the  base  to  the  (8  M.,  5  hrs. 
on  foot)  summit.  Climbers  usually  make  the  ascent  (July 
and  Aug.  are  the  best  months)  from  here,  and  the  innkeeper 
provides  a  guide  for  ¥2.50.  The  triple  craters,  now  quiescent, 
are  of  no  interest,  and  the  view  is  circumscribed. — The  unin- 
teresting Yamada  Hot  Springs  are  5  M.  distant.  The  Guchi- 
yasu  Tunnel  (3330  ft.  long)  intervenes  between  this  point 
and  127  M.  Kozawa,  whence  the  ocean  is  but  7  M.  (tram-car) 
distant.  The  train  now  ascends  over  a  stiff  grade  through  a 
region  of  seared  and  mutilated  forest  trees  —  relics  of  the  great 
fire  of  May,  1911.  The  InahoTunnel  (5841  ft.)  pierces  the  pass 
of  the  same  name,  in  a  region  where  silver  and  coal  are  mined, 
beyond  is  a  long  narrow  valley  with  hills  rising  abruptly  on 
bath  sides,  noted  for  wild  flowers  in  July,  and  for  maples  in 
Oct    After  passing  140  H«  Shikanbcl&u,  \\vfc  ^xain  traverseB 


OTARU  — SAPPORO      eO,  RcnOe,    351 

one  of  the  finest  fruit-growing  regions  of  the  Hokkaido; 
here  thrive  apples  (considered  the  best  in  Japan),  peaches, 
pears,  cherries,  and  other  fruits,  along  with  vegetables  ana 
grain.  When  the  peaches  begin  to  form  they  are  inclosed 
separately  in  paper  bags  to  protect  them  from  insects,  and 
the  trees  then  present  the  appearance  of  being  done  up  in 
curl-papers.  A  fairly  good  highroad  traverses  the  valley,  past 
Niki  and  Yoichi  stations,  beyond  which  the  hills  recede  to  a 
distant  horizon  and  the  valley  flattens  out  into  a  wide  culti- 
vated plain.  The  rly.  curves  broadly  to  the  right  here,  and  the 
Japan  Sea  comes  into  view  at  the  left;  the  villagers  live  by 
fishing  for  herrings. 

159  M.  Otaru  (Inn:  Etchu-yat  KitOt  etc.,  ¥4),  the  port  and 
capital  of  Shiribeshi  Province,  with  80,000  inhabs.,  is  one  of  the 
most  important  shipping-points  in  the  Hokkaido;  nearly  200 
vessels  enter  and  leave  the  harbor  each  year,  taking  with  them 
co^  from  the  Ishikari  Valley,  dried  herrings,  rly.  ties,  and 
many  island  products.  Five  thousand  tons  of  peas  are  shipped 
each  year  to  Great  Britain.  —  Steamships  of  the  Nippon 
Yusen  Kaisha  maintain  regular  commimications  with 
Hakodate  (207  M. ;  fare,  %F6),  and  the  ports  between  Otaru  and 
(196  M.;  fare,  ¥6)  Wakkanai.  Also  with  (1169  M.;  fare,  ¥24) 
Kobe,  vik  Yokohama.  The  heavy  snowfalls  of  the  region  are 
severest  in  Feb.  From  Nov.  to  March  the  sea  is  apt  to  be 
rough,  and  westerly  and  northerly  winds  blow  fiercely.  Calm 
seas  prevail  during  April-Oct.  Though  second  in  importance 
to  Hakodate  as  a  port  city,  Otaru  contains  nothing  to  interest 
foreigners.  —  Beyond  the  city  the  rly.  (sometimes  called  the 
Temiya  Line)  runs  along  a  leage  reclaimed  from  the  high  bluff 
at  the  right  and  protected  from  the  boisterous  sea  (splendid 
views)  by  a  costly  stone  revetment;  as  a  rule,  through  trains 
do  not  stop  at  the  suburban  stations  of  Aseari,  and  Hariusu  — 
both  near  the  sea-wall. 

At  167  M.  Zenihako,  noted  for  its  salmon  fisheries,  the  train 
enters  Ishikari  Province  and  runs  inland  oVer  a  beautiful  wide 
plain.  The  big  horse-breeding  farm  at  the  left  just  before 
Sapporo  is  reached  is  called  the  Makomanai;  it  bears  a  strong 
likeness  to  a  Kentucky  establishment,  with  its  attractive 
stables,  fine  meadows  studded  with  haycocks,  and  animated  by 
blanketed  horses  being  led  about  by  jockeys  and  grooms.  A 
good  highway  leads  hence  to  the  capital. 

179  M.  Sapporo  (or  Satsuporo),  capital  of  Yezo  Island,  with 
71,000  inhabs.,  stands  on  a  broad,  hill-encircled  plain  watered 
by  the  Ishikari  RiVer,  in  Ishikari  Province,  in  lat.  43**  04'  N.^ 
and  in  long.  141°  21'  E.  It  dates  from  1869,  is  the  most  attrac- 
tive city  in  N.  Japan,  and  represents  the  first  efforts  of*  the 
Japanese  Gov't  to  colonize  the  Hokkaido.  ;'v   '^ 

When  the  Bureau  of  Colonization  was  establislied,  and  Couul  Kwowx 
hecame  the  Governor  of  the  Hokkaidd,  he  engaged  40  A.meT\caTi  «vcftii^  X.^ 


352    Route  20.      THE  HOKKAIDO  MUSEUM 

come  out  and  bring  with  them  ample  supplies  of  harvesting  machinery  an  1 
other  mechanical  appliances,  seeds,  trees,  etc.  On  their  arrival  he  set  to 
work  improving  the  udand,  and  incidentally  the  future  capital.  For  this  a 
beautiful  level  plain  with  a  sufficient  slope  to  insure  drainage  was  seleoted, 
and  avenues  160  ft.  wide  running  N.  and  S.,  and  intersecting  streets  from 
100  to  120  ft.  wide  were  laid  out  and  flanked  by  sidewalks  and  shade  trees. 
This  work  was  done  before  a  single  house  was  built.  The  effect  secured  is 
pleasing,  and  no  city  in  Japan  is  airier,  sweeter,  or  more  attractive.  It  is 
kept  scrupulously  clean,  and  the  numerous  fine  ^ran^te  and  brick  edifices 
in  Occidental  style  impart  an  air  of  solidity  that  is  heightened  by  spacious 
and  handsoine  parks  adorned  with  statuary.  A  garrison  is  located  at  /Sap- 
poro, where  Gov't  maintains  the  Hokkaidd  Agricultural  Experiment  Statioo 
(Noji  Shikenjo)t  and  the  Agricultural  College  of  the  Imperial  University 
{Tohoku  Teikoku  Daigaku)^  opened  in  1876  and  modeled  after  the  Massa- 
chusetts (U.S.A.)  Agricultural  College.  The  fruit  trees  from  America  now 
E reduce  bountifully,  and  the  region  is  celebrated  not  only  for  its  fine  fruit 
ut  also  for  delicious  preserves.  The  Sapporo  Beer  brewed  by  the  Dai 
Nippon  Brewery  Co.^  Ltd.t  is  likewise  known  for  its  excellence.  The  hilla 
behind  the  city  are  oiiss-cix>ssed  with  trails  that  lead  to  many  picturesque 
spots. 

Arriral.  The  finest  Quarter  of  the  city  is  near  the  rly.  station,  and  the 
chief  points  can  be  reacned  on  foot  in  a  few  min.  No  cara.  Jinriki,  35  aen  an 
hr.  The  best  of  the  several  hotels  is  the  Yamagatorya  (5  min.  walk;  jiniild, 
10  sen,  frcnn  the  station).  Rooms  only,  from  ¥2,  according  to  location  (the 
best  are  in  the  foreign  wing) ;  meals  (foreign  food),  ¥1  each  (salmon  — 
maau,  a  specialty).  Japanese  food  and  accommodations  in  this  and  in  the 
Hohei-kwan  (inn),  from  ¥2.50  a  day  inclusive. 

The  best  ^hops  are  on  the  main  St.,  Nishi  O-dori,  which  rum  S.  from  the 
station  entrance.  On  the  same  thoroughfare  is  the  fine  granite  h(une  of  the 
Hokkaido  Colonization  Bank  {Takuahoku  Qinkd):  near  by  is  the  equally 
imposing  Post-Office,  facing  a  pretty  park  with  a  bronze  statue  of  Qeneral 
Nagayama.  The  bronze  statue  in  the  park  3  squares  W.  of  this  is  of.  Count 
Kuroda,  one-time  chief  of  the  Colonization  Bureau.  At  the  extren^e  W.  end 
of  the  city  stands  Maruyama  Park,  with  a  Shinto  shrine  called  the  Sapporo 
Jinja.  A  joyous  festival  is  celebrated  June  15 — 16  each  year.  The  hand- 
somest of  the  parks  (2  blocks  back  of  the  Yamagata-ya  Hotel)  is  laid  out  on 
the  lines  of  a  botanical  garden,  contains  numerous  indigenous  trees  care- 
fully labeled,  and  adjoins  a  smaller  botanical  garden.   Within  the  first  is 

The  HokkaidQ  Museun^  {HakubiUauktvan),  open  Wed.,  Sat.,  and  Sun- 
days, from  8  to  5;  admission,  2  sen.  There  is  a  small  collection  of  stuffed 
animals  and  birds  from  Yezo  and  Saghalien:  bird,  fish,  and  animal  trape, 
prehistoric  pottery,  mineral  specimens,  and  Ainu  relics  and  belongings 
(clothing,  domestic  utensils,  models  of  boats,  and  what-not),  significant  of 
the  low  order  of  intelligence  of  these  unfortunate  people.  The  big  Yeao 
(stuffed)  bears  and  eagles  are  worth  looking  at. 

From  Sapporo  the  train  runs  E.  through  the  suburbs  and 
affords  good  views  of  the  wide  streets  of  the  capital;  the  big 
structures  at  the  right  and  left  of  the  tracks  are  the  brewery 
and  malt-house  of  the  Dai  Nippon  Brewery  Co.  Sawmills, 
flour-millS)  hemp-  and  flax-factories,  preserving- works,  etc., 
impart  a  busy  air  to  the  outskirts.  Beyond  the  suburban  town 
of  Naebo  the  country  is  highly  cultivated.  Prominent  fea- 
tures in  the  landscape  are  the  wide  fields  of  hops  (Humulus 
japonicus;  Jap.,  mugura)  of  a  species  differing  sligntly  from  the 
common  hop  ( H.  lupidus)  of  America,  and  in  steady  demand 
by  the  brewers  of  the  country.  The  farmers  support  the  vines 
on  poles  arranged  like  those  of  a  wigwam.  The  rly.  soon  curves 
broadly  to  the  right  and  traverses  a  lovely  plain,  prairie-like 
j'n  ita  extent,  drained  by  shallow  tributaries  of  tne  Yaburi 
J^tver,  and  dclimned  on  a  far  \ionzoii\i^  \ol\*^  VAm^  hilla.  The 


AINU  SETTLEMENT  OF  SHIRAOI    SO.  We.     363 

double  brick-kilns  by  the  wayside  are  worth  a  passing  glance 
because  of  their  odd  shape.  Near  185  M.  AtsvbetsUj  the  high- 
road which  started  so  bravely  from  Sapporo  loses  its  me^o- 
politan  character  and  degenerates  into  a  rutty  nonentity  out 
of  keeping  with  the  maf^iificent  character  of  the  country  — 
which  resembles  a  rich  section  of  Illinois  or  Kansas.  —  192  M. 
Ebetsu,  on  the  banks  of  the  Yvhari-gawa,  contains  a  big  paper- 
mill  (seishi-jd)  of  the  Fuji  Paper  Co. ;  the  river,  which  here  joins 
forces  with  the  Ishikariy  furnishes  part  of  the  power.  The  pulp 
is  obtained  from  the  practically  limitless  forests  of  the  island. 

At  204  M.  IwAMiZAWA  the  rly.  gges  in  a  S.E.  direction  to 
228  M.  Oiwake,  where  it  turns  again  and  runs  S.W.  toward 
Volcano  Bay.  A  branch  rly.  runs  N.E.  to  27  M.  YHibari^  with 
the  widely  known  Yvbari  CoUieries,  There  are  extensive  coal- 
pockets  and  coke-ovens  at  Oiwokey  and  the  few  American  cows 
one  sees  in  the  adjacent  fields  are  perhaps  the  prototypes  of 
vast  herds  that  will  some  day  roam  this  splendid  country.  The 
conspicuous  features  of  the  small  towns  along  the  line  are  the 
inmiense  piles  of  logs  that  await  shipment  southward.  Here 
and  there  a  corduroy  road  stretches  across  the  marshy  lowland; 
the  tangled  wilderness  is  gay  with  flowers  and  growing  things, 
and  is  perchance  the  home  of  the  great  brown  bears  which  the 
Ainu  hunt  bravely  and  successfully.  The  houses  one  sees  are 
a  combination  of  frame  and  thatch  —  a  concession  to  the 
fierce  bliz;&ard3  which  pla^e  the  region  during  many  months 
of  the  year.  The  district  is  newer,  cruder,  and  less  tidy  than 
that  about  Sapporo.  Many  seared  and  naked  trees  rise  from 
small  patches  of  reclaimed  land,  and  between  them  are  raised 
potatoes  and  maize,  the  latter  as  food  for  the  half-wild  ponies 
of  the  island.  The  trails  through  the  forests  which  extend  for 
msjiy  miles  in  the  interior  are  made  by  Ainu  hunters. 

256  M.  Shiraoi,  a  poor  village,  stands  contiguous  to  one  of 
the  largest  Ainu  Settlements  in  this  part  of  the  country. 

The  traveler  pressed  for  time  can  leave  the  train  hero,  visit  the  Ainu 
Village  (called  Koldn),  and  later  board  a  train  and  reach  Noboribetsu  or 
Mworan  early  in  the  evening.  Hand-lusgage  can  be  checked  at  the  station; 
2  ten  each  piece.  The  station-agent  wiU  find  a  boy  to  accompany  one  (25 
ten  ample)  as  guide;  a  station-boy  is  better,  as  his  official  position  makes  him 
welcome  with  the  Ainu  and  enables  one  to  inspect  the  interiors  of  the 
houses  by  invitation  rather  than  by  intrusion.  The  people  are  gentle,  sub- 
missive, courteous,  and  harmless.  They  show  less  curiosity  than  the  visitor; 
forbid  the  children  to  molest  or  follow  him;  respond  amiably  to  salutations, 
and  welcome  rather  than  repulse  foreigners.  If  the  traveler  will  provide 
himself  beforehand  with  some  candies,  foreign  knick-knacks,  a  bit  of  flashy. 


oroide  Jewelry  for  the  poor  women  drudges  of  the  households,  or  anything 

Teel 
1  then  bring  out  it 
-  great  strings  of  olue  bee 
hammered  silver  or  metal  ornaments,  and  the  like,  —  and  other  heiiiooms, 


that  pleases  children,  their  gratitude  will  be  so  genuine  that  he  will  feel 
repaia  for  the  forethought.  The  womenkind  will  then  bring  out  their 
wedding  finery  and  deck  themselves  with  it,  —  great  strings  of  olue  beads. 


or  tribal  treasures,  will  be  displayed  for  inspection.    Usually  every  charm 
known  to  these  poor  untutored  folks  is  employed  to  please  those  who  show 
interest  in  them.  By  proceeding  from  the  station  to  tbe  msMi  %\i.  <A  ^^<& 
lese  town,  turning  right  and  walking  to  the  2d  rly.  croM&iitL,  oda  ^i^ 
to  the  terminus  (left)  of  the  mam  st.  ol  Kotdn.  This  TUX»  nw^X.  ^iiaflCO"^:^ 


364    Route  20, ,        :NOBORIBETSU 

Uie  frowsy  settlement  to  the  sea,  where  a  spliMidid  surf  aometinies  breaks 
upon  the  beach.  Flanking  this  dirt  lane  are  the  wretchedly  poor  huts  (60  ok 
more)  of  the  (approx^  200)  people,  each  surrounded  by  a  little  garden  in 
whicl\  men,  women,  and  children  delve  diligently.  Side  lanes  oroastJie  niain 
one  at  right  angles,  ta>d  are  in  turn  flanked  by  other  hoiises.  The  ^teriors 
vary  with  the  habits  or  poverty  of  the  owners.  Some  are  as  well  furnished 
and  comfortable  as  the  poorest  Japanese  shack;  others  are  mere  styes  wtiere 
the  blear-eyed  inmates  dwell  amid  vermin  and  destitution.  The  town 
straggles  along  the  beach  for  4  M.;  the  c^p  cauldrons  sunk  in  the  sand  are 
usedior  boiling  fish  for  oil  and  manure,  if  the  traveler  has  time  to  spare  he 
should  walk  along  the  beach  and  inspect  the  curious  Ainu  boats  drawn  up 
there  —  long,  narrow  craft,  rowed  from  the  side  by  slender  oars.  On  a  foggy 
day  the  sea  is  of  a  beauty  indescribable;  gray  as  a  gull's  breast,  and  some- 
times broken  into  great  waves  which  sweep  in  from  the  California  coast 
4000  M.  away  vainly  to  thuqjler  their  message  of  civilization  at  the  very 
doors  of  the.  unheeding  Ainu. 

From  the  platform  of  the  Shiraoi  Station  one  may,  on  a 
clear  day,  get  a  fine  view  of  the  (6  M.  N.W.)  Tarumae  Volcano 
(3300  ft.),  which  after  many  years  of  inactivity  suddenly  blew 
off  its  head  in  1874,  and  besides  burning  the  splendid  forest 
which  draped  its  sides,  deposited  ashes  over  towns  50  M.  awayl 
The  Ainu  still  hunt  bears  in  the  lower  foothills.  —  Scattered 
Ainu  huts  are  seen  along  the  shore  as  the  train  runs  by  the 
sea,  and  are  usually  distinguishable  from  those  of  the  Japanese 
by  the  superimposed  caps  of  straw  which  form  ridg^  that 
gradually  decrease  in  size  as  they  near  the  apex.  Before  reach- 
ing 270  M.  ShikifUf  we  cross  the  Uyoro^avm,  which,  before 
emptying  its  water  in  the  adjacent  sea,  turns  and  follows  the 
shore  for  some  distance,  almost  within  arm's  reach  of  it,  yet 
separated  from  it  by  a  narrow  sand-spit.  It  illustrates  a  curi- 
ous habit  of  many  of  the  Yezo  rivers,  which  follow  this  linger- 
ing procedure  before  making  the  merger.  The  Ftishicohetsu 
Tunnely  2000  ft.  long,  is  threaded  before  the  train  reaches 

275  M.  Noboribetsu,  point  of  departure  for  Nchorihetsu 
Onsen,  the  small  cluster  of  houses  at  the  Hot  Springs  4}  M.  in 
the  hills  (li  hr.)  at  the  W. 

If  there  be  many  passengers  on  the  train  the  traveler  wilt  do  well  to  have 
the  station-agent  at  Shiraoi  telephone  to  the  office  of  the  i!>a«^  (see  p.  xci) 
at  Noharibetau  (opposite  the  station)  and  have  the  special  haaha  (¥1.40 
including  luggage)  reserved  (comfortable  seating  capacity  for  2  pers. ;  4  on 
a  pinch).  The  fare  in  the  regular  basha  (uncomfortable  when  crowded)  is 
40  sen.  The  road  leads  through  the  main  st.  and  over  the  hill  —  turning  left 
beyond  the  crest.  In  the  rainy  season  it  is  execrable  —  even  for  walkers. 
The  last  mile  is  through  a  wild  and  picturesque  region,  with  a  deep  gorge 
and  a  shallow  river  at  the  left,  and  high  hills  at  the  right.  The  hamfcet 
occupies  a  narrow  plateau  at  the  head  of  the  ravine,  and  at  times  is  idmost 
enveloped  in  the  sulphurous  steam  which  rises  from  the  hot  water.  Tower- 
ing hiUs  inclose  it  on  all  sides.  The  basha  usually  stops  in  front  <^  the 
Tc^imoio  Inn,  where  a  clean  room  and  Japanese  food  is  provided  for  an 
inclusive  charge  of  ¥2  a  day.  The  sulphurous  fumes  are  disliked  by  moe- 
quitoes  and  other  li^ht  militia  of  the  air,  and  they  are  conspicuous  by  their 
absence.  By  plannmg  to  inspect  the  springs,  etc.,  on  the  following  a.m., 
one  can  board  the  noon  basha,  reach  Muroran  early  in  the  afternoon,  and 
take  a  night  boat  from  there. 

A  10  min,  walk  up  the  gorge  behind  the  inn  (the  proprietor 
acts  as  guide;  fees  unneceaBaTy")  bim^^  oTia,  mthout  dizzy 


NOBORIBETSU  SO,  Route.    355 

dimbipg  or  perilous  scrambling,  to  one  of  the  most  interesting 
spots  in  Yezo;  aptly  termed  Jikoku-dani^  or  'Valley  of  Hell.' 
Here,'  in  the  highly  inflisuned,  corroded,  and  disintegrating 
crat^  of  a  moribund  volcano,  in  a  place  dreadful  yet  fascinat- 
ing, near  the  base  of  high  walls  that  have  been  burned  and 
tortured  into  almost  every  color  of  the  prismatic  spectrum, 
and  now  covered  by  a  thin,  irregular  crust  as  treacherous  as  it 
is  hot,  are  the  dynamic,  retiring  fires  of  a  volcano  that  has  seen 
better  days.  Through  this  rotten  crust,  where  infinite  caution 
is  required  in  picking  one's  way,  and  where  the  stranger  should 
never  venture  without  a  guide,  burst  scalding  mud,  super- 
heated steam,  furiously  boiling  water,  and  sulphurous  gases 
that  seem  to  have  spurted  straight  from  the  white-hot  heart  of 
hdl  itseK.   The  ground  is  pierced  with  holes  from  the  size  of 
a  lead-pencil  to  boiling  cauldrons  40  ft.  in  diameter,  and  from 
eac^  of  these  there  jerks  or  puffs,  or  belches  or  hisses  —  often- 
times accompanied  by  terrifying  groans,  sighs,  or  shrieks  — 
sickening  emanations  and  solfataric  gases  that  wound  the 
sense  of  smell,  or  burn  an  exposed  hand  with  diabolical  malig- 
nity.  The  gorge  is  usually  filled  with  the  steam  that  rushes 
from  hundreds  of  vertical  and  horizontal  vents;  in  some  places 
with  a  thin,  spiteful  wail,  in  others  with  the  stunning  noise  of  a 
hundred  locomotives  blowing  off  steam  in  unison.  In  a  small 
ravine  threaded  by  an  angry  rivulet  of  pestiferous  blistering 
sulphur  water,  is  a  place  where  the  crust  gives  way  when  one 
ventures  on  to  it,  and  spitting  steam  flies  out  to  scald  the 
invader.  The  stones  are  crackl^  with  the  terrific  heat  beneath 
them,  and  a  cane  poked  into  the  earth  finds  no  resistance,  but 
when  withdrawn  is  charred  and  smoking.  Some  of  the  streams 
which    rush    desperately    away    from    this    fuming    'HelFs 
Kitchen'  are  dirty  gray  in  color;  others  are  clear  (and  poison- 
ous); while  still  others  rest  long  enough  in  wayside  pools  to 
deposit  exquisite  acicular  crystals  of  sulphur  which  perish  at  a 
touch  and  disappear  as  an  impalpable  powder.  Other  streams 
of  innocent-loolang  but  white-hot  water  flow  over  jade-grecn 
beds  that  sparkle  like  jewels  and  are  extraordinarily  beautiful 
when  the  sun's  rays  strike  them.    In  some  places  one  must 
keep  moving  to  save  one's  shoes  from  burning;  in  another 
place,  near  the  center,  is  a  deepish  pool,  perhaps  25  ft.  from  the 
Up,  and  60  ft.  across,  called  the  Tetsu-no-yu  Chot  iron  spring') 
vmere  viscous  mud  and  iron  of  a  bluish-gray  color  boil  and 
blobber  viciously  and  ceaselessly.    Every  foot  of  the  gorge 
shows  the  traces  of  volcanism.  By  climbing  to  a  small,  near-by 
ridge  one  emerges  on  a  terrace  whence  far  below  one  sees  a 
second  crater,  called  Oyunuma,  with  a  lake  of  boiling  mud,  and 
walls  streaked  with  red  and  yellow,  and  drab  and  green.  Other 
lets  of  steam  dart  out  of  the  mt.  side,  and  hot  water  bubVAea 
nom  a  score  of  roaring  vents.  The  sizable  snak^  (Hibi)  VfV^cYi 
ifest  the  p]&ce  hereabout  love  the  warmth  and  are  barinVeaa. 


356    jBfe.  BO.       MURORAN  AND  VOLCANO  BAY 

—  Water  pours  down  from  this  spot  to  the  bath-houses  in  the 
hamlet,  where  promiscuous  bathing  is  practiced.  The  hills  are 
honeycombed  with  solfataras  and  blow-holes,  some  of  which 
exhale  hot  air,  others  cold.  There  are  a  number  of  pretty  walks 
in  the  neighborhood,  but  when  one  gets  out  of  range  of  the 
sulphuretted  hydrogen,  woods-flies  become  troublesome  and 
interfere  with  one's  pleasure.  The  maple  displays  of  Nov.  vie 
in  beauty  with  the  cherry  blooms  of  April. 

Some  bold  headlands  are  seen  at  the  left  of  the  train  beyond 
Noboribetsu  Station,  and  a  fine  surf  rushes  in  from  the  broad 
Pacific  to  die  on  the  shingly  beach.  An  occasional  Ainu  hut 
stands  in  lonely  isolation  near  the  shore.  280  M.  Horobetau, 
a  bleak  town  overlooking  the  sea,  has  only  its  views  to  recom- 
mend it.  The  group  of  factories  at  the  right  of  287  Wanishi 
constitute  the  Anglo^apanese  Steel  Works;  great  piles  of  coal, 
long  docks,  and  a  half-dozen  or  more  big  buildings  surmounted 
by  lofty  steel  chimneys  give  an  air  of  suppressed  energy  to  the 
place. 

291  M.  Muroran,  a  picturesque  town  (pop.  21,000)  in  Iburi 
Province,  occupies  a  pretty  site  at  the  foot  of  a  green  rid^ 
from  the  crest  of  which  a  superb  view  is  obtainable.  Fishing  is 
the  chief  industry  of  the  tidy  little  port,  and  the  specialties  are 
mackerel,  halibut,  sprats,  herrings,  and  an  auriculate  shell  of 
the  PectinidcB  (Jap.  kotategai),  which  is  made  into  buttons. 
The  rly.  station  is  within  2  min.  walk  of  the  steamer  landing 
(right).   At  the  left  of  the  exit  is  a  restaurant  where  foreign 
food  can  be  had.  The  Maru-ichi  Inn  (¥2.50  to  5  a  day)  stands 
at  the  left  of  the  station,  facing  the  dock;  the  Marukon  (same 
rates)  is  a  few  hundred  yards  farther  along  the  street.  Betwee: 
them  is  the  office  of  the  Nippon  Yusen  Kaisha,  whose  com 
fortable  ships  ply  daily  to  Aomori  (see  Rte.  17)  and  Hakodate. 
Trunks  from  the  rly.  station  to  the  dock,  25  sen.   The  com 
pany's  launch  puts  passengers  on  board  free  of  charge. 

The  Bay,  an  indentation  in  the  N.E.   side  of  the       ^ 
Volcano]  Bay  (23  M.  in  diameter,  55  fathoms  deep),  nev 
freezes,  and  is  filled  with  excellent  fish.  The  picturesque  islan 
which  rises  120  ft.  above  the  surface  and  is  surmounted  by 
lighthouse  and  girt  by  a  reef  is  Daikoku-jima.  The  bold  pr 
montories  seen  at  the  left  as  the  ship  passes  out  are  ve: 
striking;  the  winds  and  waves  have  wrought  them  into  man; 
fantastic  shapes,  and  a  myriad  sea-birds  nest  in  them.    Tli 
volcano  visible  at  the  N.N.W.  is  Usu-dake.  That  at  the  W^ 
is  Komagatake,  The  active  volcano  (1950  ft.)  at  the  extrem 
E.  point  of  the  peninsula  bounding  the  S.  edge  of  Volcano  Ba; 
(so-named  by  Captain  Broughton,  who  visited  it  in  1796) 
Esan,  On  dark  nights  the  sky  often  glows  with  the  reflectio; 
of  its  interior  fires.  Esamaki  Point  is  rounded  on  the  voy; 
to  Hakodale  or  Aomoin, 


HAKODATE  TO  KUSHIRO       iSl.  RU.    367 

a  I.  From  Hidcodate  vili  Iwamizawa,  Fukagawa,  Asahigawa 

and  Ikeda  to  Ku^iiro. 

Hakodate  Main  Line,  and  Kushiro  Line  of  the  Imperial  Japanese  Govern- 
ment Railways. 

To  Iwamizawa  204  M.;  several  tr^ns  daily  in  about  13  brs.  Fare,  ¥6.30, 
Iflt  d.;  ¥3.78,  2d  cl.  —  To  Kushiro,  457  M.  in  about  28  bra.;  fare,  ¥10.95, 
Ist  cl. ;  ¥6.57,  2d  cl.  Neitber  line  baa  touristic  value  equal  to  tbat  of  Rte. 
20,  but  tbey  are  of  particular  interest  to  tbose  concerned  witb  tbe  tribal 
life  of  tbe  Ainu  as  well  as  witb  virgin  country  but  recently  penetrated  by 
the  rly. 

From  the  Port  of  Hakodate  to  Iwamizawa  Junction  is 
described  in  detail  in  Rte.  20.  The  busy  town  is  the  end  of 
a  riy.  division,  with  round-houses,  car-shops,  etc.,  and  several 
new  inns  near  the  s1;ation;  rates  from  ¥3-4  a  day.  From  here 
the  rly.  runs  due  N.  through  a  wild,  beautiful,  and  practically 
primitive  country  200  or  more  ft.  above  the  sea-level,  to  245 
M.  (from  Hakodate)  Fukagawa  (a  place  similar  in  many 
respects  to  Iwamizawa)^  where  the  Rumoi  Line  turns  N.W. 
ana  traverses  an  equally  undeveloped  region  to  31  M.  Rumoi} 
a  growing  port  on  the  Japan  Sea,  and  in  touch  with  Otaru  by 
em&H  coasting  steamers.  From  Fukugawa  the  main  line  runs 
E.  for  20  M.  to  265  M,  Asahigawa  (2  inns  opposite4;he  station; 
¥4),  475  ft.  above  the  sea,  and  t^e  point  of  departure  for  the 
important  Teshio  Line,  now  under  construction  (consult  the 
rly.  time-card),  and  which  is  slowly  penetrating  the  frigid 
wilda  of  Teshio  Province  (northernmost  of  the  island  group). 
167  M.  Wakkanai,  on  the  S6ya  Strait,  is  its  ultimate  destina- 
tion. The  constantly  shifting  rail-head,  and  the  steady 
improvements  which  the  region  is  undergoing,  renders  sus- 
tainedly  accurate  information  difficult.  Fierce  forest  fires 
sometimes  scourge  the  region  and  alter  the  face  of  it. 

At  Asahigawa  (Inn:  Miurorya,  ¥4),  a  clean,  thriving  town 
near  the  center  of  the  island,  and  which  less  than  two  decades 
ago  was  an  unpeopled  wilderness,  the  main  line  turns  S.  and 
traverses  a  more  developed  and  progressive  country;  moun- 
tainous in  part,  well  watered,  and  covered  with  magnificent 
forests  almost  tropical  in  their  density.  Ainu  villages  are  met 
with  occasionally  in  the  remote  fastnesses  (usually  not  far 
from  the  coast),  but  they  are  as  a  rule  too  difficult  of  access  to 
repay  the  effort  made  to  reach  them.  At  327  M.  Ikutora,  the 
train  crosses  the  Ikutorashibetsu  River  at  an  elevation  of  1288 
ft.,  then  climbs  higher  to  Karikatsu  (1856  ft.),  where  it  enters 
the  sharply  slanting  Karikatsu  Tunnel  (3009  ft.  long),  before 
it  descends  to  the  shorter  Shinnai  Tunnel.  The  big  mts.  at 
the  far  left  are  Tokachi-sanj  and  Ishikari-san, 

From  392  M.  Ikeda,  the  Abashiri  Line  diverges  to  the  N. 
and  runs  through  a  district  where  most  of  the  peppermint 
nown  on  the  island  is  raised.  Passing  Mt.  Meakaa,  asid%1  ^. 
Ifqkkeushi  Jet.,  the  line  proceedB  to  120  M.  Abo^Kiri,  «b|g:cw- 


i 


358    Rte,  22.       THE  KURILE  ISLANDS 

ing  port  at  the  E.  end  of  the  island,  on  the  Okhotsk  Sea.  At 
IMUi  the  mam  line  continues  S.E.  over  a  practically  level 
country  to  409  M.  C/raAoro,  whence  the  train  ascends  (404  ft.) 
to  the  Atsunai  Tunnel  (1035  ft.  long),  then  descends  to  the 
Atsunai  River,  which  it  crosses  9  times  in  as  many  miles  before 
reaching  [the  port  of  the  same  name  on  the  Pacific  Ocean. 
From  tnis  point  the  rly.  follows  the  contour  of  the  coast, 
threading  3  tunnels  and  crossing  6  rivers  before  it  reaches  its 
present  terminus. 

457  M.  Kushiro  (Inn:  Kanehichi,  ¥4),  a  thriving  port  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Kushiro  River,  in  Kushiro  Province,  204  M. 
from  Hakodate  by  sea  (frequent  ships  of  the  Nippon  Yusen 
Kaisha),  is  perhaps  destined  to  become  one  of  the  most  im- 
portant seaports  on  the  island.  Considerable  sulphur  is  ex- 
ported, the  product  coming  down  the  river  from  Shipetcha, 
where  it  is  refined  after  being  brought  from  the  famous  Sul- 
phur Mt.  {Iwo-san)  near  Atosanobori.  Transpacific  ships  often 
stop  here  for  the  excellent  coal  from  the  near-by  fields.  The 
thousands  of  oak  and  maple  logs  which  come  down  the  river 
on  the  spring  freshets  are  shipped  to  Europe.  The  Tokichi 
Valley,  in  ^ the  hinterland,  is  noted  for  its  beans.  The  ruinous 
old  fort  near  (2  M.)  Mojiriya  is  believed  to  have  been  used  by 
the  Ainu  a  thousand  years  ago.  Archaeologists  have  un- 
earthed numerous  relics  of  the  Stone  Age  in  the  neighborhood. 
—  A  number  of  Ainu  villages  dot  the  intervening  country 
between  Kushiro  and  Nemuro  (Inn :  Yamagaia-ya,  ¥4)  —  a 
picturesque  port  on  the  E.  coast,  in  Nemuro  Province,  known 
for  its  extensive  crab-canning  establishments. 

22.  The  Kurile  Islands. 

The  Kurile  Islands,  on  KurUes,  so  named  by  the  Russians 
for  the  smoking  volcanoes  thereon,  are  called  Chishima,  or 
Thousand  Islands,  by  the  Japanese,  to  whom  they  were  ceded 
by  Russia  in  1875,  in  part  exchange  for  a  section  of  Saghalien. 
They  are^lS  in  number  and  comprise  a  lofty,  sparsely  inhabited 
volcanic  chain  extending  in  a  S.W.  direction  between  the  S. 
extreme  of  Kamchatka  and  the  N.E.  part  of  Yezo,  and  between 
the  43d  and  5l8t  degrees  of  N.  lat.  Tomari,  the  chief  town  of 
Kunashiri-shima  (the  southernmost  of  the  group)  is  almost 
within  view  of  Nemuro,  across  the  Nemuro  Strait  (50  M. 
long;  9-20  M.  wide),  and  is  a  regular  port  of  call  for  the  steam- 
ships of  the  Nippon  Yusen  Kaisha^s  Hakodate-Kiuiles  ser- 
vice. Few  of  the  Japanese  possessions  are  less  known  to  for- 
eign tourists,  and  few  are  more  deserving  of  being  known, 
since  certain  of  the  islands  are  the  paradise  of  the  Sherman, 
the  hunter,  the  volcanist,  the  botanist,  and  the  lover  of  the 
awe-inspiring  and  unusual  in  nature.  The  environing  seas  and 
the  splendid  island  rivers  teem  mti\i  ^<&  ^<&Vi  —  chiefly  salmcm 


YETOROFU  ii.  Bouie.    369 

and  salmon-trout.  Huge  grizzly  bears  —  perchance  the  fore- 
bears of  the  magnificent  fighters  of  the  American  Northwest 
—  gorge  themselves  on  these  salmon  and  roam  the  great  f oi^ 
ests  practically  unhunted  by  man;  while  the  active  volcanoes 
are  spouting  fountains  of  fiery  beauty,  finer  than  anjjrthing  in 
Japan  proper,  and  of  a  spectacular  splendor  quite  indescrib- 
able. From  Sept.  to  Nov.  is  the  best  season  in  which  to 
visit  the  Kuriles,  as  the  weather  is  then  bright,  clear,  and  with 
slow  westerly  winds.  The  spring  is  cold  and  boisterous,  and 
with  but  little  fog,  but  this  prevails  almost  constantly  through- 
out the  summer  months,  with  but  few  bright  intervals.  June 
has  been  known  to  have  16  days  of  fog,  July  26,  and  Aug.  20. 
PVom  Dec.  to  Feb.  is  cold,  with  N.W.  winds.  There  are,  now- 
ever,  many  fine  days,  and  during  the  coldest  nights  the  mer- 
cury rarely  falls  below  zero  Fahr.  Snow  falls  between  Nov. 
ana  May,  with  an  occasional  fall  in  Jime.  The  climate  is 
decidedly  moist,  with  considerable  rain.  The  Ainu  who  live  on 
Bome  of  the  islands  in  a  state  of  almost  incredible  filth  and 
poverty,  protect  themselves  from  the  weather  by  holes  dug  in 
the  earth  and  roofed  over.  When  the  salmon  run  up  the  rivers 
in  the  fall  to  spawn  in  the  upper  reaches,  and  the>  a.rs  come 
down  to  the  streams  to  flirt  them  out  with  their  pawv  and  fatten 
themselves  for  their  long  winter  sleep,  hundreds  of  salmon 
fishers  come  over  from  Yezo  along  with  a  few  sportsmen  from 
Japan  proper,  and  for  a  few  weeks  there  is  considerable  activ- 
ity, and  bear-skins  are  a  drug  in  the  market.  Prospective 
himters  can  always  get  detailed  information  regarding  hunting 
and  fishing  from  the  Hakodate  agent  (English  spoken)  of  the 
Nippon  Yusen  Kaisha  S.S.  Line, 

Wnen  the  ships  of  the  above  company  drop  anchor  off 
the  small  port  of  Chinomiji  in  Kunashiri  Island  (known 
for  its  crab-canneries),  all  hands  fall  to  fishing  for  crabs, 
which  abound  in  such  numbers  that  when  the  nets  are  hauled 
up  almost  as  many  of  the  spiny  crustaceans  hang  outside  as 
inside,  as  if  anxious  to  be  canned.  The  most  conspicuous 
feature  of  the  island  (N.E.  section)  is  Chachadake,  a  ma^- 
ficent  volcano  (6051  ft.  high),  a  truncated  cone  in  shape,  with 
a  second  peak  rising  out  of  its  crater.  The  culminating  peak 
of  the  mt.  mass  which  occupies  the  middle  of  the  island  is 
Shimanohori  (2933  ft.).  Groves  of  timber  and  isolated  trees 
grow  on  the  lower  spurs  of  the  range,  with  thick  bamboo 
grass.  The  coast  is  rocky,  but  the  waters  abound  with  herring, 
salmon,  and  sardines.   Bears  are  numerous. 

Ybtorofu,  110  M.  long  and  from  2  to  20  M.  wide,  the 
largest  (pop.  about  1500)  and  richest  of  the  Kurile  group,  is 
separated  from  Kunashiri  by  the  Tannemoi  Strait  (12  M. 
wide;  60-80  fathoms  deep),  and  is  formed  of  8  groups  of  mte. 
9000  to  5000  ft.  high,  connected  by  low  and  compdxaMcv^ 
flai  YBlIej^^.  As  many  as  6  voleanoea  are  fiometVmfiB  acX^^^  «X 


360    Rauie2S.        URUPPU— ALAID 

one  time.  All  the  principal  settlements  and  fishing-stations 
are  on  the  Okhotsk  Sea  side  (N.W.))  as  this  is  the  most  free 
from  fog  in  summer.  Whales  are  often  seen  on  the  Pacific 
side,  i^t^tou  is  the  capital. 

Uruppu  Island,  which  is  divided  into  4  mt.  groups  each 
nearly  4000  ft.  high,  has  several  fine  rivers  which  empty  mto  the 
Okhotsk  Sea.  The  nm  of  salmon  here  is  of  peculiar  interest. 
Many  fishermen  come  hither  in  the  autumn  season  and 
establish  themselves  temporarily  to  take  and  dispose  of  the 
huge  catch.  At  the  village  of  Nobetsu  the  men  use  long  nets 
in  which  they  not  unf  requently  secure  2000  fish  at  a  time.  Usu- 
ally in  the  afternoon,  between  4  o'clock  and  sunset,  when  the 
fish  are  running  strongly,  the  bay  is  invaded  by  schools  of 
Orca  whales,  or  killers,  which  feed  voraciously  upon  the 
luckless  salmon  and  provide  a  singular  spectacle  of  carn^e  and 
destruction.  During  the  summer  the  island  is  a  vast  flower- 
garden,  and  immense  wild  roses  grow  in  profusion.  The  small 
mkes  are  well  stocked  with  a  species  of  salmon-trout  called 
ttOf  of  which  the  Japanese  are  very  fond.  The  scenory  on  the 
Okhotsk  side  of  the  island  reminds  one  of  the  Scottish  High- 
lands. Large  ice-fields  drift  across  this  sea  in  Feb.  and  the 
coast  is  sometimes  ice-bound  until  May.  Uruppu  is  the  N. 
limit  in  the  KurUes  of  the  growth  of  bamboo  grass;  the  W. 
side  of  the  islands  is  generally  high  and  perpendicular,  with 
no  beach;  ships  can  approach  to  within  40-50  ft.  of  the  shore. 
The  old  Russian-American  Factory  which  once  had  its  office 
at  Port  Tavanoy  on  the  E.  side,  is  now  closed  and  deserted. 

The  Chishima  SxRArr,  which  separates  Kamchatka  from 
Shumshu,  the  northernmost  island  of  the  Kurile  group,  is 
about  4  M.  wide.  The  island  differs  from  the  others  in  that 
it  has  no  mts.,  its  surface  consisting  of  undulating  hills  with 
swampy  valleys  and  a  growth  of  scrub  pine,  alder,  and  grasses. 
Fish  are  abundant  everywhere  off  the  coast,  and  the  lakes 
and  streams  teem  with  unhunted  waterfowl.  These  are  fea- 
tures of  many  of  the  islets,  and  the  sea-birds  comprise  fulmars, 
auks,  puffins,  guillemots,  gulls,  shags,  sandpipers,  and  doterel. 
The  land-birds  include  ptarmigan,  snipe,  plover,  swans,  geese, 
ducks,  and  divers  (particularly  where  there  is  much  fresh 
water).  Ravens,  falcons,  wagtails,  and  wrens  are  common. 
Harlequin  ducks  frequent  certain  of  the  islands  in  great  num- 
bers hi,  summer.  Sea-lions  and  leopard-seals  are  numerous, 
and  fur-seals  are  found  near  the  Shrednoi  and  Mushir  rocks. 
On  some  of  the  islands  foxes,  wolves,  and  land-otters  are  found, 
along  with  a  species  of  lemming. 

Alaid  (Araido-8hima)f  W.  of  Shumshu j  the  loftiest  of  the 

Kuriles  (7640  ft.),  is  an  extinct  volcano,  with  slopes  sweeping 

downwaxd  in  a  graceful  curve,  and  ending  in  low  clifiTs;  a 

deserted  village  stands  on  tiie  ^.Ei.  «id<&  ^Vi<&te  an  old  lava 


Kmnfido.  SAGHAUEN  f9.  Emde.    361 

Btieam  has  fonned  a  small  point.  Paramuihiru  (or  Para" 
moshiri^ma)  at  the  S.  of  Shumshu  is  mountainous  throughout, 
with  4  splendid  volcanoes,  the  most  prominent  of  which, 
Mesatofujij  or  Fuss  Peak,  rises  from  a  peninsula  at  the  S.W. 
side  of  the  island,  in  a  magnificent  solitary  cone  6900  ft.  high, 
and  terminates  seaward  in  steep  cliffs.  About  10  M.  to  the 
N.  stands  the  lordly  Chikuratski  (or  Chikuramine)^  6400  ft. 
In  the  S.  part  of  the  island  there  are  numerous  peaks  over 
6000  ft.  high.  Nearly  all  the  remaining  islands  are  marked 
by  series  of  volcanic  peaks  which  are  glowing  beacons  to  marin- 
ers on  the  high  seas  adjacent. 

23.  Saghalien. 

Saghalien,  the  Tarakai  of  the  natives,  and  the  Karajvio 
(an  Ainu  name)  of  the  Japanese  (who  own  the  lower  hall  of 
the  Msjid  from  lat.  46*^  to  50°),  extends  nearly  N.  and  S. 
abreast  the  coast  of  Tartary  for  520  M.,  and  has  a  width 
varying  from  15  to  100  M.  Its  N.  part  forms  the  E.  side  of 
Amur  Gulf,  and  farther  S.  the  E.  shore  of  the  Strait  of  Tar- 
tary, while  its  S.  extremes.  Cape  Siretoku  and  Kondo-zaM, 
are  separated  from  Yezo  Island  by  La  Pirouae  (or  Soya) 
Strait  (22  M.  across  and  with  an  average  depth  of  20-40 
fiathoins). 

Travelers  from  YesQ.usuaIly  land  in  Saghalien  at  Sakaemachi^  1  M.  from 
the  former  capital  of  Otoman  (the  some-time  Russian  penal  settlement  of 
Koratikovsk),  at  the  head  of  Aniioa  (or  HigtMhifushimi)  Bai/t  overlooking  a 
smaller  bay  called  by  the  Russians  Lososet,  and  by  the  Japanese  Chitoae- 
wan.  Anitoa  Bay,  45  M.  long  and  53  M.  broad,  extends  along  the  southern- 
most part  of  Saj^alien,  between  Kondo-zaki  and  Jizo-zaki,  the  former  a 
peninsula  extending  into  La  Pirouae  Strait.  From  Sakaemachi  trains  of  the 
Karafuto  Railway  Line  (3  ft.  6  in.  gauge;  operated  by  the  Kara/tUo-ehd, 
the  vernacular  name  of  the  local  gov't)  run  N.  to  57  M.  Saka^uima  on  the 
E.  coast  (daily  trains  in  about  4  hrs.;  2d  cl.  fare,  ¥3;  3d  cl.,  ¥1.62  —  no  Ist 
.d.),  passing  through  24  M.  Toyohara,  the  present  capital  (formerly  Vlady- 
■mirovka)  where  the  administrative  buildings  are.  Communications  with  the 
:£.  side  of  Saghalien  is  kept  up  during  much  of  the  year  by  dognsledges, 
-.which  the  Ainu  are  expert  in  driving. 

Trustworthy  early  records  regarding  Saghalien  are  lacking; 
it  attracted  the  attention  of  the  Japanese  early  in  the  18th 
cent.,  and  in  1785  the  Tokugawa  Gov^t  ordered  Hidemochi 
Matmmoto  to  organize  an  expedition  thither  and  report  on 
tiie  island.  That  it  was  masterless  is  shown  by  the  fact  that 
later  the  feudal  lord  of  Matsumae,  at  Yezo,  was  entrusted 
with  the  administration  of  it  and  it  was  acknowledged  a 
Japanese  possession.  Still  later,  when  the  Muscovites  began 
to  cast  covetous  eyes  upon  it,  the  ruling  barons  of  Sendai^ 
AizUf  Shonaif  and  Morioka  were  instructed  to  send  colonists 
thither,  who  were  later  placed  under  the  direct  control  of  the 
high  commissioners  at  Hakodate.  Soon  after  Russia  put  asinx 
oh  the  land  affirming  that  the  N.  half  belonged  to  Yier,  Vx^e 
jmmtroverBy  over  it  reached  an  acute  stage,  and  m  1*^^  «i 


362    Route  28.  SAGHALIEN  FomU. 

Russian  commissioiier  was  sent  to  Japan  to  help  mark  the 
border-line.  In  1859,  Mur<wieff  came  for  the  same  purpose, 
but  as  no  definite  agreement  could  be  reached,  Japan  sent 
(in  1862)  a  special  envoy  to  the  Russian  capital,  but  the  settle- 
ment hung  fire.  The  treaty  concluded  between  Russia  and 
the  Tokitgawa  shogunate  in  1867  was  unsatisfactory  to  Japan, 
since  she  held  the  shadow  and  Russia  the  substance.  By  the 
terms  of    the    Portsmouth  Treaty,    however,   the  S.   part 

i about  20,000  sq.  M.)  of  Karafuto  below  the  50®  was  restored 
1905)  to  Japan.  The  island  (pop.  80,000)  has  long  been  cele- 
brated for  its  fisheries.  Whales  are  found  off  the  E.  and  S. 
coasts;  salmon  and  herrings  abound,  and  in  the  deep  bay  of 
Aniwa  on  the  S.,  into  which  two  large  streams  fall,  the  Japan- 
ese have  established  an  extensive  salmon-fishery;  the  largest 
Is  at  the  head  of  Patience  Bay.  The  fishing  season  commences 
in  »April  and  closes  in  Aug.  Of  the  27,000  of  the  Japanese 
population,  four  tenths  are  engaged  in  agriculture,  tne  re- 
mainder in  fishing. 

The  forest-belted  mts.  of  the  island  are  disposed  in  parallel 
ridges,  running  with  the  meridian,  separated  by  marsny  val- 
leys and  forming  the  prolongation  of  similar  ridges  of  granite 
and  metamorphic  schists  in  the  Hokkaid5.  Here,  as  there, 
strata  of  the  Upper  Cretaceous  age,  nnclosing  coal-seams, 
reveal  themselves  against  them,  on  the  W.,  while  on  the  E. 
side  strata  of  the  Tertiary  formation  predominate.  A  marked 
difference  in  the  geology  of  Saghalien,  compared  with  that  of 
Yezo,  consists  in  the  scarcity  of  eruptive  rocks  in  the  former 
—  which  are  limited  to  places  on  the  W.  coast.  In  this  con- 
nection it  is  noteworthy  that  the  zone  of  volcanism  which 
follows  the  W.  coast  of  the  Japanese  archipelago,  ends  in 
the  upper  Hokkaido,  while  a  branch  diverges  over  the  KurUea 
to  Kamchatka.  The  W.  mt.  chain  skirts  the  coast  from  N.  to 
S.  and  has  a  mean  elevation  of  nearly  3000  ft.;  its  summit, 
m  the  center  of  the  range,  attains  a  height  of  nearly  4900  ft. ; 
and  Mt.  Lopatinski  (Bernezet  Peak),  in  about  lat.  47®  38'  N., 
is  3890  ft.  high.  The  passes  in  this  range  are  in  some  places 
less  than  600  ft.  high.  Eastward  of  the  main  range  there  are 
parallel  ranges  with  a  mean  elevation  of  about  650  ft.,  with 
gently  rounded  crests.  Mount  Tiaray  in  about  lat.  50°  10'  N., 
is  an  imposing  peak  about  1950  ft.  high,  and  the  only  mt. 
of  much  elevation  in  the  E.  ranges.  These  mts.  never  reach 
the  perpetual  snow-line,  but  several  rise  above  the  limit  of 
vegetation. 

The  virgin  Forests  are  of  an  extent  unequaled  in  any  other 

part  of  the  Japanese  Empire.   The  most  valuable  of  the  trees 

are  the  several  varieties  of  pines,  the  larch,  white  birch,  willow, 

etc.    Many  chemical  substances  are  obtained  from  them  — 

reein,  wood-alcohol,  turpentine,  etc.  The  forests  are  situated 

moiDiy  on  the  high  plains  or  in  vaWef^^mtVi  a.  ^U^ht  inclination 


Climate.  SAQHALIEN  S8.  BouU.    863 

toward  Uie  sea;  numerous  small  streams  float  the  felled  logp 
to  tide-water.  Coal  is  ihe  chief  product  of  the  mines;  next 
.to  it  comes  placer-gold,  copper,  and  iron.  Oil  is  found  in 
payins  quantities.  The  coal-fields  (under  the  control  of  the 
Hi^halien  Administrative  Office)  are  numerous,  with  thick, 
regular  seams.  The  N.  fields  lie  along  the  E.  slope  of  ^e 
mt.  axis  of  the  island  and  stretch  from  the  mouth  of  the 
Poronai  River  to  the  Russian  frontier.  Wash-gold  is  found  in 
abundance  in  the  beds  of  the  rivers  which  flow  from  the 
Taraika,  Sitsuya^  and  Shiretoko  ranges.  Iron  pyrites  is  found 
in  great  quanfities  on  the  Notoro  Feninsula.  It  is  believed 
that  silver  and  amber  exist.  Rice  is  not  cultivated  because  of 
the  short  summers,  but  the  other  vegetable  products  are  those 
of  countries  with  a  climate  like  that  of  Canada.  The  bear, 
wild  reindeer,  and  sable  are  hunted,  and  the  magnificent 
Manchiuian  tiger  often  visits  the  N.  extremity  of  the  island, 
crossing  over  when  the  Strait  of  Tartary  is  icebound.  Cattle 
and  horses  have  been  introduced  from  Russia  and  Japan. 

The  Saghalien  Climate  is  characterized  by  extreme  himaid- 
ity,,  fogs,  rains,  and  snow.  Spring,  summer,  and  autumn 
occupy  2  months  each  and  the  winter  6  months.  At  Kusunai, 
on  the  W.  coast,  the  fog^  and  rainy  days  average  253  in  the 
year,  and  this  locality  is  considered  to  be  in  a  favorable 
position  for  fine  weather:  the  number  of  foggy  and  rainy  d&ya 
on  the  E.  coast  is  considerably  in  excess  of  those  on  tiie  W. 
coast.  The  rainy  season  is  from  mid- Aug.  to  mid-Oct.,  when 
destructive  floods  occur  at  times.  By  the  end  of  Oct.  the 
streams  and  the  coast  are  beset  by  ice  and  the  whole  island 
is  covered  by  snow  3  ft.  deep,  which  remains  until  the  follow- 
ing April.  The  leaves  begin  to  come  out  at  the  end  of  April, 
and  the  following  5  months  are  warm  or  hot;  in  the  height  of 
summer  it  is  light  from  4  a.m.  till  9  p.m.  The  principal  river 
is  the  Poronai f  which  rises  in  about  lat.  50°  30'  N.,  winds 
through  a  broad  plain  at  the  foot  of  the  W.  range,  and  enters 
the  sea  in  the  middle  of  Patience  (or  Shichiro)  Bay,  on  the 
E.  side  of  the  island.  The  Tuimi  River  rises  near  the  source 
of  the  Poronai,  runs  N.,  and  discharges  its  waters  into  the 
Sea  of  Okhotsk.  Each  is  navigable  by  a  small  boat  for  about 
100  M.  The  winter  winds  which  blow  down  the  valley  of  the 
Poronai  River  are  bitterly  cold,  and  the  temperature  of 
Patience  Bay  in  Jan.  is  said  to  be  quite  20°  colder  than  in  the 
same  latitude  on  the  W.  coast.  The  ice  along  the  shores  of 
this  bay  will  bear  sleighs  as  late  as  April.  The  great  cold  of 
the  E.  coast  is  caused  in  a  measure  by  the  ice  which  comes 
in  from  the  Okhotsk  Sea  and  packs  up  along  it.  Broken  masses 
sometimes  remain  heaped  round  the  E.  headlands  until  July. 

The  inhabitants  of  the  Russian  end  of  the  island  consist 
almost  entirely  of  immigrants:  Russian  (many  of  \Ai%ixv  t«- 
leased  exiles),  Giryaks (T&rtarB),  Ainu  (frgmYezo^,  axAOrolw. 


364    Route  23.  SAGHALIEN 

The  chief  occupation  of  the  people  is  fishing  and  hunting,  the 
articles  of  export  being  otter,  fox,  sable,  bear,  deer,  and  seal 
skins.  Robben  (Tuytdenya,  or  5ea2)  Island,  11^  iniles  S.W. 
of  Cape  Patience,  has  a  seal-rookery  on  the  E.  side.  The 
Russian  Pur  Company's  station  is  near  the  S.W.  end.  The 
island  is  the  resort  of  thousands  of  puffin  and  other  sea-birds 
which  breed  here.  Sea-lions  congregate  in  considerable  nuna- 
bers  on  Opaanost  Rocky  near  Kondo-zaki.  The  noise  of  their 
bellowing  and  barking  can  be  heard  some  distance  at  sea,  and  in 
fo^^  weather  it  warns  the  seamen  of  the  island's  proximity. 

The  hunter  inured  to  low  temperatures  (the  thermometer 
sometimes  registers  24°  F.  below  zero  on  the  W.  coast)  will  find 
game  numerous.  Bears  and  fine  and  valuable  foxes  are  unusu- 
ally plentiful,  as  are  also  grouse  and  hares.  In  this  remote  and 
rarely  visited  comer  of  the  world  whales,  seals,  salmon,  and  a 
host  of  marine  creatures  can  be  caught  with  little  difficulty. 

Yachtsmen  who  seek  the  most  primitive  places  will  some- 
times find  deserted  huts  that  serve  for  temporary  headquarters 
on  the  shore  of  the  Gulf  of  Tartary  —  across  which  hunters 
sometimes  come  from  the  opposite  ports  of  Siberia.  It  should 
be  remembered  that  the  half-savage  Oiryaks  (or  GhUiaks)  of 
Saghalien  do  not  readily  distinguish  between  their  own  and 
others'  property  —  perchance  due  to  the  myopia  with  which 
many  of  them  are  afflicted. 

The  residence  of  the  governor-general  of  Russian  Saghalien 
is  At  Alexandrovskif  N.^,  ot  Cape  Jonquieres.  But  little  Eng- 
lish is  spoken  in  this  region,  and  strangers  are  sometimes  re- 
garded with  suspicion.  Most  of  the  Japanese  settlers  have 
retired  to  Karafvio  in  order  to  be  under  Japanese  jurisdiction- 


IV.    WESTERN  JAPAN. 


Route  Page 

24.  From  Yokohama  vi&  Kozu,  Gotemba  (FuiiHsan, 
Shoji),  and  Shizuoka  to  Nagoya  (Kydto,  Osaka, 
and  Kobe) 367 

Gotemba,  369;  Leper  Hospital,  369;  Numasu,  370;  Bay  of 
Enoura,  371;  Mio-no-Matsubara,  372;  Shixuoka,  372; 
Temples  of  Kundsan,  373. 

Nagojra.  375;  Practical  Information,  376;  Japanese  Spaniels, 
377;  The  Castle,  377;  Aichi-ken  Conmiercial  Museum, 
381;  Higashi  Hongwanji,  381;  Kaku5-den,  383;  The  Potr 
teries  of  Seto,  383. 

25.  From  Nagoya  viA  Shiojiri  (Matsumoto,  Shinonoi, 
Niigata)  and  Kofu  to  Tokyo 384 

Komagatake,  387;  5ntake,  388;  Shiojiri,  389;  Lake  Suwa, 
390;  TenryQ  River,  391:  K5fu,  392;  Takeda  Harunobu, 
392;  The  Fujikawa  Rapids,  393. 

26.  From  (Yokohama)  Nagoya  to  Kyoto  (Osaka  and 
Kobe) .  395 

Gifu,  396;  Cormorant  Fishing,  396;  The  Japanese  Persim- 
mon, 397;  The  Long  Bridge  of  Seta,  399;  Kydto,  400. 

27.  Kyoto  and  its  Environs 400 

Topography  of  Ky5to,  405;  History,  410. 

Central  and  Sootheasteni  Quarters 413 

Awata  Palace,  413;  Chion-in,  416;  Maruyama  fark*  Gion 
no  Yashiro,  421;  Gion  Festival,  422;  Higashi  Otani,  422; 
Kodai^i,  423;  Yasaka  Pagoda,  425;  Kiyomisu-dera,425; 
Nishi  Otani.  428;  Daibutsu,  429;  Big  Bell,  430;  H5kaku- 
jinja,  430;  Amida-ga-mine,  430;  Ear  Mound,  430;  Im- 
perial Art  Museum,  430;  Chishaku-in,  433;  My5h5-in, 
434;  Sanju-san-gen-d5,434:  Tofuku-ji ,436;  Inan  Shrine, 
437;  Sparrow-House,  439. 

Northeast  Quarter       440 

Kurodani,  440;  Shinnyo-do.  444;  Yoshida-jinja,  444;  Gin- 
kaku-ji,  444;  Honen-in,  447;  Anraku-ji,  447;  Nyakuo-ji, 
447;  Eikwan-do,  447;  Nanzen-ji,  448;  Ke-age,  450. 

Central  and  Southwest  Quarters        450 

Mikado's  Palace,  450;  Nijo  Castle,  456;  Higashi  Hong- 
wanji, 463;  Nishi  Hongwanji,  466;  Ich6  Tree,  471;  TSji, 
474;  Katsura  Summer  Palace,  475. 

North-Central  and  East  Quarters 477 

Shogun-Zuka,  477;  Zoological  Garden,  478;  Heian  JingQ, 
478;  Commercial  Museum,  478;  Imperial  University, 
479;  Doshisha  University,  479;  Shimo-Gamo,  479; 
Kami-Gamo,  479;  Shugaku-ln,  480. 

Northwest  Quarter 481 

Kitano  Tenjin,  481;  Kinkaku-ji,  483;  Daitoku-ji,  486; 

Kenkun-Jinsha,  488;  T5ji-in,489;  Omuro  Gosho,  491; 

Takaosan,  491;  MiySshin-ji,  492;  Kydto  Nursery,  496; 

Saga-no-Shakard5,  496;  Arashi-yama,  497;  Rapids  of 

the  Hdzu-gawa,  498;  Singing  Frogs,  498. 

Excursions  from  KvCto:  —  Over  Hiei-san  to  Lake  Biwa, 

499;  EUstorical  Sketch  of  the  Hiei-zan  Monasteries,  501; 

Karasaki  Pine  Tree,  504;  The  Miidera,  504;  Lake  Biwa 

Canal,  505:  Lake  Biwa,  506;    Daigo-ji,  507;  Ywt^iA 

Hachiman  Shrine,  509. 


WESTERN  JAPAN 


,  From  KyQto  to  the  Koya-san  MonaaterieH    .    .  5 

.  From  Kyoto  to  Amanohashidate & 

I.  From  Kyoto  vid  Yonago  (Sakai  and  the  Oki 
Islands),  Mateue,  and  Izmno-Imaichi  to  Kisuki 
(Shrlnea  of  Izumo) S 

DiuKD,  Mt.  AfhThcOldlslaoda.filliMaUue.  M3;Tlw 
Gnat  Slirine,  5*3. 

.  From  Wadnyamu  to  Himeji 5 

.  From  Maibara  vit  Tsiiruga,  Fiikui,  Kaaazawa  and 
Taubata  (Noto  Peninflula)  to  Naoetsii     ....  5 
Tiunign.  S46;  Hokusaji,  647;  Ksnaiavni,  GUJ;  Nodbo.  SU; 
NhdcUu,  MS. 

.  From  KySto  viS  Puahimi,  Momo-yama  and  Uji 
to  Nara  5 

Moino-yanin  laid  Meiji  Toaaa.  S50:  Uji,  5S1:  BBttlo  o(  Ibe 
Fireffi™.  5SZ. 

.  Nara  and  its  Environs 5 

Mara  Vark,  556:  San-EnaUn-da.  SB9;  Ni-Ewatni-da.  5SB: 
Bis  Bed,  SeOi  The  Ddbutau,  560;  ShOsMn,  562; 
KOfuku-ji,  5BB:  Nanen-da,  SB9;  Toknn-i!B,  570;  Tbs 
PoehIb.  570;  Nara  Museum.  STl;  Exouralon  to  the 
Hdikei-ji.  TOshodal-fi,  fiaidm-ii,  the  yakuahi-ji.  tis 
Goldfiah  HatfiheiT,  uul  HOryii-ji,  GTS;  SfaDtuku-lmahi. 
587.  —  To  Ihe  'fHinpliM  of  Miwa  and  Unao,  and  Iho 
MHUsaLeuQi  of  Jimmu  Teiua,  591;  T6-na-miQe,  SSB; 
Yoahmi^ysDiii.  5D7. 

.  From  Nara  to  Yamada  and  tiie  Shrinea  nf  Ise    .  5! 

From  Komoynma  In  Na«oya,  5OT;  Yiutiiula.  600;  Tho 
Sbrin™  of  Ise,  fiOi;  Museum  n(  Aodont  Thinira,  WW; 
ABriculbursl  Ball,  604;  The  Eh  Oado,  604;  Toba  add 
Futami,  605;  Paarl  KuliBriK!,  6O0. 

,  From  (Yokohama  and  Nagoya)  Kyoto  to  Osaka 
and  Kobe 61 

Osaka,  am;  Niahi  Hdngwanji.  Bll;  HiKnshi  llonRwanji,  612; 
The  CoBtlo.  612;  The  Mint,  614;  TenuO-ji,  014;  Bronie 
BeII,  615;  EiDUrBinn  to  Sumiyoshi,  Snkai,  and  Waka- 
yoma,  616. 

,  Kobe  and  Neighborhood  fll 

NaiikO  Jinla,  023;  BrDcmo  DgjliutsU,  626:  Tho  ShinkBH, 

025;  ^itwayamn  Park.  026;  ExcunioD  to  tbe  Nunofaiki 

WttterfHll.  026.  Tntho  Mayn-«mTcmplo.  627.  To  Rokko- 

sbh,  62S.  To  Arima,  a2li.  To  The  Takaradiuka  Tanau 

MmBnU  Spring,  and  Mino  Park,  6M,  Tn  Siooa.  HiioyB, 

midM^ka,6ai.  Awaji  Island  and  Naruto  Whirlpool.  S32. 

.  Fn>mKobeviAHimeji.,01{ayama(Shil{okul8laod), 

Hiroshima  and  Miyaj  Ima  to  SliimonoBeki    ....(& 

Okaynraa.  634;   KptohiTa  and  Oic  Kominru  Shriiw.  636: 

Shikoku  JalanrI,  037;  Hiroshima,  64U;  Miyaiiras,    6li; 

Inakuni  aiuL  the  Broqude  Bridsa.  042;  ShinionoBBki,  6*4. 


YOKOHAMA  TO  NAGOYA       ti.  Bte,    357 

24.  From  Yokohama  vift  KOxtt,  Gotemba  (Fuji-san,  Sh5ji) 
and  Shizuoka  to  Nagoya  (Ky5to,  Osaka,  and  Kobe). 

TSkaido  Main  Line  of  the  Imperial  Go7ernment  Railways. 

To  Nagoya,  215  M.  Express  trains  in  7  hrs.;  fare,  ¥6.53,  Ist.  cL;  ¥3.92. 
2d.  To  Kyoto,  310  M.  in  10  hrs.; ¥8.38. 1st  cl.;  ¥5.03.  2d.  To  Kobe,  358  M. 
in  about  12  hrs..  ¥9.23,  Ist  d.;  ¥5.54.  2d  cl.  For  extra  fares  on  fast  trains 
(dining-cars)  and  aleeping-berths,  see  p.  Ixxxii.  Food  (bentd:  tea,  hot  milk, 
etc.)  is  sold  at  the  chief  stations.  Between  Yokohama  and  Kobe  (routes  24.  . 
26.  and  36)  the  rly.  traverses  25  tunnels,  crosses  76  rivers  (on  substantial 
bridges),  and  the  provinces  of  Sagami,  Suruga,  Totomi,  Mikawa,  Ovoari, 
Mino,  Omi,  and  Yamaehiro  before  entering  Settau.  At  times  the  train 
skirts  portions  of  the  lovely  coast  of  the  Pacific  Ocean  and  affords  adorable 
views  (best  from  the  left  side  of  car)  of  the  sea  and  of  Fuji-ean  (ri^ht  side 
of  car).  It  crosses  and  re-crosses  the  old  Tdkaidd,  which  at  present  is  much 
used  by  automobilists.  The  hi^est  point  of  the  line  is  at  Gotemba  (1598  ft.), 
near  the  base  of  Fuji.  The  tnp  should  foe  made  in  daylight,  particularly  in 
the  spring  when  many  of  the  qiiaint  stations  flame  with  flowers. 

Yokohama  (see  p.  10).  The  rly.  bears  round  to  the  left, 
circles  the  port,  and  runs  toward  the  W.  through  a  succession 
of  flat  valleys  cut  up  into  rice-fields  that  are  a  mass  of  sticky 
mud  in  early  spring,  a  carpet  of  vivid  green  in  summer, 
and  half-submerged,  repulsive  plots  in  winter.  The  thickly 
wooded  ^een  hiUis  protect  the  region  from  the  chill  N.  winds^ 
and  late  in  the  fall  and  very  early  in  the  spring  the  straw- 
thatched  native  houses  are  embowered  in  flowers  and  have 
purple  sweet-flags  growing  in  bands  2  ft.  wide  along  their 
ridge-poles.  The  big  push-carts  on  the  flanking  highway  are 
usually  filled  with  sturdy  onions,  edible  lilies,  or  JaiAms  for 
the  Yokohama  markets.  Beyond  Hodogaya  the  grade  slopes 
upward  through  the  Shimtdzuyado  Tunnel  (701  ft.  long) 
to  a  valley  hemmed  in  by  graceful  pine  groves,  bamboo, 
maple,  cherry,  and  other  trees.  Hereabout  the  peasant  women 
wear  skin-tignt  trousers  when  working  in  the  slime  of  the 
paddy-fields,  and  squads  of  them  may  be  seen  knee-deep  in 
the  malodorous  muck  from  whose  sticky  black  mass  grows  the 
excellent  native  rice.  The  line  soon  crosses  the  broad  auto- 
mobile road  which  links  Yokohama  to  Kamakura^  Dzushi, 
Yokosukaf  and  MisaJd.  Beyond  Totsukay  where  the  fertile 
Seki  Valley  is  entered,  the  auto  road  strikes  off  left  in  order 
to  be  nearer  to  the  sea,  and  the  rly.  continues  on  through 
hills  marked  by  numerous  cuts  and  admirable  retaining  walls 
of  speckled  granite.  Albeit  the  land  hereabout  has  been  in- 
tensively cultivated  for  more  than  a  thousand  years,  —  per- 
chance with  little  or  no  rest,  —  the  constant  addition  of  fer- 
tilizers has  made  it  amazingly  rich  and  productive. 

10  M.  Of  una  Jet.,  is  the  point  of  departure  for  Kamakura 
and  the  places  described  in  Rte.  2,  p.  28.   The  near-by  C<we9 
of  Taya-no-ana,  with  some  crude  carvings  on  the  soft  walls^ 
are  of  no  interest.   An  electric  car-line  (station  at  tbft  Vel\»  o\ 
the  rly.)  runs  S.  from  12  M.  Fujiaawa  to  (2  MJ^   Ka*flae> 
ibe  nearest  point  on  the  mainland  to   £!no9h.ima  ^%^^ 


Route  Si.  K02U 


eeot),  O^l 


The  Buddhist  Temple  {Yiigyo-ji,  of  the  Zen  eeet),  ,  .„„^ 
from  the  Ftijisawa  Station,  is  of  less  interest  to  foreigners  tffi^ 
to  Japanese,  some  of  whom  believe  that  the  abbots  have 
Bpeeial  powers  of  healing.  Kiigeiturna  (Inn:  Taiko-kwiith 
a  bathing-reflort  (for  natives)  if  M.  to  the  S.W.  of  the  ala- 
tion,  ie  prettily  situated.  On  the  lowlands  between  the  pine- 
clad  iiills  hereabout  many  luscious  (American  variety)  peacbea 
•  are  grown  for  the  Yokoimma  and  Tokyo  markets.  The  Hakim 
Mis.,  with  Fuji  aa  the  culminating  point,  are  soon  desi^ried 
at  the  right.  There  are  extensive  Golf  Links  at  (17  M.) 
Cki^asaki,  a  seaside  resort,  and  good  sea-bathing,  the 
Baniu  River,  which  flows  out  of  Lake  Yamanaka,  on  tbe 
N.E.  aide  of  Fuji-aau,  is  now  crossed  on  a  bridge  2126  ft.  long 
which  cost  77,700  yen.  28  M.  Hiraisuka,  amid  pine  grovw, 
is  the  starting-out  place  for  the  (0  M.  N.)  locally  celeoraUd 
Afiiri-jinska,  a  Shinto  ehrine  on  0-yama  (4400  ft,),  near  some 
pretty  cascades.  The  country  hereabout  is  iiiUy,  pine-dad, 
and  with  a  good  auto  road  across  it;  the  sea  is  visible  at  the 
left. 

22  M.  Oiso  (Inn:  Tdryo-kwan,  ¥2.50),  a  popular  bafhii* 
resort  with  many  picturesque  Japanese  villas  overlooldiig  Hte 
f  eea,  haa  some  unusually  big-  pine  trees;  the  views  of  the  db- 
I   tont  Fuji  are  entrancing.    Orange  groves  are  features  of  tiu 
country,  which  produces  an  unusual  number  of  lovelv  flow- 
ering trees  interspersed   here  and  there  with  the  beroerida- 
cous  Nandina  domestica.    Beyond   Ninomiya  the  land  taku 
on  a  sub-tropical  aspect  which  is  heightened  by  many  palm- 
1   ettoes,  bamboos,  and  wide  fields  of  maize  and  broom-com. 
I      2B  M.  KOZD  (or  Kodtu;  Inn:  Kfijii-fciran,  ¥2.50),  a  piotw^ 
I  esque  town  overlooking  the  beautiful  Sagami  Bay  (fine  beach), 
jetting-off  place  for  Afiyonos/tifa  and  A(omi.  Thetram- 
hich  leave  tram  the  shed  at  the  left  of  the  station  (hard 
by  the  inn)  go  to  Odawara,  YumoUi,  and  other  near-by  places 
Rte.  5,  p.  55).    Prom  this  station  the  rly.  ascends  through  the 
Sakaiva   Valley  to  the  foothills  of  the  Hakone  Range:  Fvji 
"ses  grandly  at  the  left,  above  Fulago-yaTna.MydJitigaiake, 
Kami-yama,   Ktnloki-zan,  and  minor  peaks.   The  lesser  hilts 
are  green  to  their  summits,  and  the  intervening  valleys  are 


The  rly.  climbs  steadily  through  a  labyrinth  of  hills, 

I  flecked  with  wild  flowers,  to  39  M,  Yamakila,  &  mt.  village 
near  the  brawling  Sakawa  Rijier.  A  product  of  this  stream,  m 
theshapeofasmallsilverytroutseosoned  with  vinegar,  cooked 
with  rice,  and  called  &u*hi,  is  sold  at  tJiis  and  other  stations 
(16  sen),  and  though  unsavory  and  unpalatable  to  foreigners, 

iiie  ffiuob  liked  by  the  i&^uisa^  Tn» «^j>£&Bii.«),i}ri^4ft Sfm    , 


Leper  Hospital,  GOTEMBA  S4.  RavU.    309 

leads  through  several  tunnels  of  the  Hdkone  Mis,  and  across 

a  number  of  rivers  and  picturesque  gorges  spanned  by  spideiv 

like  suspension  bridges  and  idealized  by  plunging  waterfalls. 

Beautiful  glimpses  of  Fvjiy  thrusting  its  glistening  cone  up 

through  cottony  clouds  that  look  like  ghostly  wreath  or  snow 

exhalations,  are  observed  from  the  right  side  of  the  train.  Yrom 

this  distance  the  sacred  mt.  looks  strangely  white  and  spectraf 

against  the  cobalt  sky,  and  it  shinuners  with  a  blinding  white 

beauty  unlike  the  impression  it  usually  conveys.    Many  of  the 

streams  which  sUther  down  from  its  frostv  heights  are  ntiade 

to  turn  big  overshot  water-wheels  that  help  the  farmer  at  his 

tasks  and  hull  his  rice.  Greater  power  has  been  secured  from 

them  by  the  influential  Fuji  Cotton  Spinning  Mills  Co.,  whose 

series  of  factories  and  the  clustering  homes  of  hundreds  of 

their  operatives  are  seen  from  Oyama  Station,  In  its  efforts  to 

xeach  the  plain  600  ft.  higher,  the  train  now  follows  the  sinuous 

course  of  the  river — crossing  and  re-crossing  it  until  it  emerges 

on  the  extensive  highland  dominated  b  v  Fuji* 8  gigantic  shadow, 

&nd  by  the  huge  lateral  ridges  which  lead  from  it  to  the  right 

and  left.  ^ 

52  M.  Gotemba  (1589  ft.),  a  starting-point  for  the  ascent  of 
Fujir-san  (comp.  p.  45) ;  sometime  the  seat  of  a  himting-lodge 
erected  by  the  shoguriy  Minamoto  Yoritomo  (whence  the  name: 
Goten,  a  palace;  and  &a,  site  or  spot),  anciently  was  much  in 
favor  with  the  Kamakura  Regents,  who  foregathered  here  to 
make  up  the  hunting-parties  (a  popular  motive  with  artistic 
decorators  and  often  referred  to  in  Japanese  history)  called 
Fuji  no  mahi-gari.  From  the  platform  of  the  nondescript  sta- 
tion, the  traveler  gets  an  uninterrupted  view  of  the  splendid 
mt.  from  its  wide,  swelling  base,  to  its  serrated  summit.  It  is 
seen  to  the  best  advantage  in  early  spring  or  late  autumn  when 
a  snowy  mantle  resembling  spotless  ermine  extends  from  the 
cusped  crest  far  over  its  shoulders  and  down  its  sides.  Isolated 
patches  of  this  snow  remain  in  the  deep  ravines  (invisible  from 
the  rly.)  until  midsummer,  and  when  the  last  have  disappeared 
the  aspect  of  the  mt.  is  much  Hke  Vesuvius  when  seen  from 
Naples.  At  this  time,  too,  the  station  is  usually  thronged  with 
staffed  pilgrims  bound  for,  or  away  from,  the  sacred  peak.  — 
The  line  now  enters  Suruga  Province  and  continues  along  a 
splendidly  rolling  country  delinmed  at  the  left  by  the  Hakone 
Range.  With  a  good  field-glass,  one  can  pick  out  the  Otome- 
tdge,  beyond  which  lies  Lake  Hakone,  Some  6  M.  to  the  S.  of 
the  rly.,  in  a  beautiful  sequestered  valley  at  the  base  of  the 
Hakone  Range,  embowered  in  fine  old  cherry  trees,  is  the 
Leper  Hospital  (founded  in  1888  by  Ph-e  Testevinde,  a  noble 
French  Catholic  missionary),  known  as  the  L&proserie  de 
Gotemba.  Clustering  near  the  chapel  erected  by  the  self- 
denying  priests  who  Duilt  it,  and  who  spend  theit  VWeR  ^^arvSL^ 
fcvr  the  hundred  or  more  unfortunate  leper  imna\«B  ol  VYi«\A&icAi 


370    Rauie  U-  MISHIMA  Numagu. 

is  a  little  settlement  to  which  all  suffering  bodies  are  welcome. 
—  The  common  Japanese  name  for  the  quite  prevalent 
leprosy  (caused  by  tJie  L^ra  bacillus)  is  Ratbyd  (or  kattai). 
The  euphemistic  name  is  Tenkeibyd  C  Heaven-sent  disease  '). 
A  similar  hospital  (both  peculiarly  deserving  charities)  is  lo- 
cated &tKumamoto,  in  Kyushu. 

The  slope  is  now  perceptibly  downward ;  the  streams  flow  S. 
and  W.,  and  the  roughisn  plain  across  which  the  train  dashes 
at  top  speed  has  a  rugged  beauty  in  pleasing  contrast  to  the 
customary  soft  island  scenery.  The  land  seems  to  tip  toward 
the  S.  as  if  courting  the  sunshine,  and  it  affords  a  magnificent 

ganorama  over  a  vast  area.  Fuji  dominates  it  like  some  huge 
oary-headed  sentinel,  and  the  long  lava-flows  which  seam  it 
are  the  records  of  the  sacred  mt.  when  it  was  a  puling  infant. 
In  the  lower  reaches  of  the  wide  valley  plums,  peaches,  early 
cherries,  magnolias,  and  beautiful  Camellias  japonicas  may 
often  be  seen  commingling  their  fragrance  and  charm  in  earl^ 
March.  The  streams  which  pour  down  from  Fuji^s  flanks  irri- 
gate the  orchards  and  gardens,  turn  many  a  mossy  water- 
wheel,  and  give  Ufe  to  the  flax-fields.  —  About  a  mile  N.  from 
55  M.  Sano  (Sano  Hotels  ¥4  a  day,  Am.  pL;  English  spoken) 
is  a  cluster  of  6  waterfalls  called  Sano  Bakv^n;  and  1  M.  be- 
yond them  a  picturesque  spot  called  Keiga-shimaf  with  some 
curious  rocks.  The  highest  of  the  falls  (Fujimi)  is  44  ft.;  the 
pool  into  which  they  tumble  collectively  with  a  thundering 
roar,  contains  trout.  Good  pheasant  shooting  in  season.  The 
Agricultural  Experimental  Farm  is  near  the  rly.  station. 

59  M.  Mishima  Jet.  is  the  point  of  departure  for  several 
small  towns  on  the  Izu  Peninsula.  Chief  among  them  is  Ohito 
(12  M. ;  several  trains  daily;  fare,  66 sen,  1st  el.),  whence  a  good 
road  leads  S.E.  to  (3  M.;  jinriki  and  basha)  the  Shuzenji  Hot 
Springs  (Shuzenji  Hotel y  ¥4  a  day.  Am.  pi.)  —  a  popular 
resort  (for  Japanese).  The  springs  contain  sulphur  and  car- 
bonate of  soda.  Eight  miles  distant  (S.E.)  are  the  Yugashima 
Hot  Springs.  The  volcanic  mts.  which  stretch  across  the  nar- 
row peninsula  from  E.  to  W.  are  known  by  the  generic  term 
Amagi-san  —  which  in  reaUty  is  the  name  of  the  culminating 
point  (4760  ft.).  Shimoday  a  small  port  farther  along,  facing 
the  lower  end  of  Sagami  Bay^  is  said  to  be  the  first  port  stopped 
at  by  Commodore  Perry  in  1854.  The  best-known  town  is 
Atamif  on  the  N.E.  coast,  13  M.  E.  of  Mishima^  and  described 
at  p.  64.  —  The  rly.  now  turns  W.  and  soon  reaches  66  M. 
NuMAZU  (Inn:  Sugimoto-ya^  ¥2.50),  a  monotonous  town  with 
the  remains  of  a  dhimyd^s  castle  built  by  Takeda  Katsuyori  in 
1579.  Of  the  3000  houses  comprising  the  town,  2500  were 
destroyed  by  a  fire  in  March,  1913.  The  seashore  town  (3  M. ; 
tramway)  of  Ushihuse  (Inn:  Mishima-kwan,  ¥2.50)  is  popular 
with  Japanese,  Near  by  is  the  prettily  situated  Shizuura 
(Lmi.Hoyo-kwani  ¥2.60),  wittx  a \oNdv  s,\i^t<ih  of  beach  cele- 


Bnaura  Bay.  IWABUCHI  84.  RmUe.    371 

brated  in  song  and  stoiy,  and  a  villa  occupied  by  the  Empress 
and  Emperor  during  several  weeks  of  the  short  winter.  The 
peaches  grown  in  the  neighborhood  are  excellent,  and  the 
views  of  Fvji^an  adorable.  The  Bat  of  Enoura  is  one  of 
the  most  charming  in  the  entire  region. 

West  of  Numcusu  the  rly.  curves  to  the  right  and  passes 
through  miles  of  peach  orchards  upon  which  the  snowy  Fvji 
looks  down  in  frigid  silence.  Pears,  edible  lilies,  and  tea  are 
raised,  and  considerable  rope  is  made  at  the  open-air  rope- 
walks  one  sees  from  the  train.  70  M,  Hara.  76  M.  Suzukawa, 
one  of  the  starting:-points  for  Lake  Shoji  (p.  43),  and  for  the 
ascent  of  Fujivik  Omiya,  The  skirts  of  the  sacred  mt.,  which 
from  here  resembles  a  colossal  bump  rising  from  the  plain, 
stretch  almost  to  this  point,  and  along  the  graduated  slope  the 
eye  travels  quite  up  to  the  rim  of  the  cone  —  which  on  its  S. 
side  exhibits  much  less  snow  than  at  the  N.  The  picturesque 
ridge  which  overlooks  Suruga  Bay  at  this  point  is  clothed  with 
fantastic  pine  trees;  the  beach  which  lies  below  and  stretches 
to  the  Fuji  River,  is  known  as  Taganoura,  and  is  very  lovely  — 
with  the  Japanesy  charm  that  appeals  to  the  native  poet. 

79  _M.  Fuji  Station  is  20i  M.  from  the  sununit  of  the  mt.  by 
the  Omiyaguchi  route;  the  Sengen  Shrine,  dedicated  to  the 
goddess  of  the  volcano,  is  6i  M.  to  the  N.  The  light  rly.  which 
bears  off  to  the  right  goes  (viA  5  M.  Omiya)  to  16  M.  Kamiide 
(p.  46),  whence  it  is  to  be  extended  (as  the  Fuji-Minohu  Rly.) 
to  (49  M.)  Kofu  (p.  392).  A  lateral  line  goes  from  Omiya  to 
(3  M.)  Suzukawa.  The  shallow  but  turbulent  Fuji  River  (one 
of  the  largest  on  the  line)  is  now  crossed  on  a  9-8pan  steel 
bridge  (cost  283,000  yen)  1867  ft.  long.  Trackers  haul  boats 
upstream  against  the  strong  current,  and  many  logs  descend 
the  rapids  to  be  sawn  into  lumber  at  Iwahuchi.  The  ^eat 
width  of  the  river  at  this  point,  where  it  enters  the  sea,  illus- 
trates the  vast  extent  of  land  the  Japanese  could  reclaim  if  their 
rivers  were  kept  within  bounds.  In  flood-time,  the  current  of 
this  dashing  stream  has  a  velocity  of  27  ft.  per  second,  and  its 
annual  pranks  cost  many  lives  and  vast  sums  of  money.  The 
sea  and  the  point  of  land  known  as  Mio-no-Maisuhara  are  now 
visible  at  the  left. 

82  M.  Iwahuchi  (Inn:  Tani-yay  ¥2.50,  at  the  station),  the 
terminus  for  travelers  descending  the  rapids  of  the  Fuji-kauHi, 
is  also  the  starting-point  (by  river)  for  Minobu  (p.  393).  From 
the  right  of  the  train  as  it  proceeds  W.  one  sees  the  peerless 
and  almost  superhumanly  beautiful  Fuji  as  it  rises  like  a  serene 
apotheosis  toward  the  winsome  blue  sky.  Coupled  with  the 
wonderful  sea  flanked  by  a  fringe  of  graceful  pines  it  forms  a 
picture  of  infinite  charm.  Many  of  the  farmsteads  hereabout 
are  embowered  in  orchards  with  fields  of  waving  sugar-cane 
stretching  away  from  them.  Beyond  85  M.  Kambata,  >^^ 
Yuirgawa  is  crossed  and  the  roar  of  the  neax-by  aea.  dT<ywxv«>\)aft 


372    BtnOe  U^  SHIZUOKA  MuHno-Maimibara. 

clatter  of  the  train.  High  hills  flank  the  rly.  on  the  right,  and 
blue  mts.  wall  the  distant  horizon.  From  a  terrace  along  which 
the  train  runs  its  daring  course,  one  looks  down  upon  a  sea 
that  is  a  miracle  of  beauty,  and  upon  splendid  breakers  that 
pound  and  break  like  glass  upon  the  shore.  Quaint  brown 
fishing-hamlets  stud  the  beach,  and  from  them  put  forth 
many  quaint  junks  manned  (and  womaned)  by  semi-nude 
brown  folks  who  get  their  living  from  the  sounding  sea.  For 
miles  the  rly.  follows  the  profile  of  the  hills,  flanking  the  good 
automobile  road  below  and  watched  by  the  ever-jealous 
Fuji. 

88  M.  Okitsu  (Inn:  Tokai  Hotel,  semi-foreign,  ¥4>{i  day, 
Am.  pL),  a  picturesque  town  near  a  lovely  beach.  The  600  or 
more  cherry  trees  planted  about  General  U.  S.  Grant^s  Tomb 
(New  York  City)  came  from  here,  and  were  shipped  in  1912. 
The  bronze  statue  at  the  right  of  the  station  commemorates 
Marquis  Inoue.  The  aforetime  brilliant  Seikenji  (a  temple  of 
the  Zen  sect)  is  now  faded  and  neglected,  but  the  views  there- 
from are  charming.  —  Stuffy  little  boats  leave  Okitsu  at  inter- 
vals during  each  day  for  the  sandy  peninsula  (2^  M.;  fare,  60 
sen)  of  Mio-no-Matbubara,  a  spot  tenderly  enshrined  in  the 
native  mind  for  a  quaint  legend  in  which  a  poor  fisherman,  a 
beautiful  dancing  fairy,  anof  a  robe  of  feathers  play  conspicu- 
ous parts. 

92  M.  Ejiri  (Inn:  Fukuzumi-ya,  ¥2.50)  is  about  1  M.  (light 
rly.)  from  Port  Shimizu,  on  Suruga  Bay,  whence  much  of  the 
Shizuoka  tea  (p.  cix)  is  exported.  The  chief  product  of  the  sur- 
rounding country  is  green  tea;  the  hillsides  are  covered  with 
the  low,  knob-like  bushes,  which  at  times  sweep  down  and 
compete  in  the  lowlands  with  the  rice  grown  there.  During 
the  picking  season  the  fields  are  gay  with  the  brightly  colored 
costumes  of  the  women  who  snip  off  the  young  leaves.  The 
Tonuyge-gawa  is  crossed  before  reaching 

99  M.  Shizuoka  (Inn:  Daitokwan  Hotel,  2  min.  from  sta* 
tion,  English  spoken,  ¥5  a  day,  Am.  pi.),  chief  city  of  Shizuoka- 
ken,  Suruga  Province,  with  54,000  inhabs.  Prior  to  the 
Restoration,  the  historic  town  —  sometime  the  residence  of 
the  governing  daimyos  of  Suruga  —  went  by  the  names 
Sumpu,  Funai,  and  FOchu,  The  imperial  army  marched 
through  it  on  its  way  to  Yedo  in  1868,  and  after  the  (late) 
Mikado  was  restored  to  his  throne  Keikei  (Hitotsubashi 
Yoshinobu),  the  last  of  the  shogunSyWeni  into  retirement  here. 
Here  the  great  Tokugawa  leyasu  dwelt  before  he  founded 
Yedo,  and  hither  he  came  to  spend  his  last  days  in  peace. 
Shizuoka  means  'Hill  of  Peace,'  and  this  illusive  quantity 
was  apparently  maintained  by  the  numerous  Hatamoto  or 
immediate  vassals  of  the  shdgunal  household.  The  militanr 
greatneaa  wYach  was  once  a  feature  of  the  place  has  departed; 
the  deBcendanta  of  the  sometime  s^sj^buckllng  samurai 


Bamboo-Work.  EUNOZAN  ei.  Route.    873 

employ  their  ener^es  in  making  lacquered  articles  and  bam- 
boo-work. A  specialty  is  the  delicate  bamboo  plaiting  some- 
times used  to  cover  the  very  thin  eggshell  porcelain  teacups 
made  in  the  province  of  Mino.  The  basket-work  is  celebrated 
loc^y;  the  best  tea,  much  of  which  is  exported  to  America, 
comes  from  the  near-by  village  of  Ashikubo.  Literatists  know 
Shizuoka  for  the  many  old  treasures  of  Japanese  literature 
which  the  discerning  leyciau  caused  to  be  printed  here.  A 
number  of  relics  of  uie  man  are  preserved  in  the  Rimainji,  a 
Buddhist  t^aple  (Zen  sect)  on  the  outskirts  of  the  city,  near  a 
pretty  landscape  garden.  The  great  shogun  is  said  to  have 
learned  to  write  here,  and  to  the  temple  treasiuy  he  gave,  in 
his  old  age,  some  pieces  of  lacquered  ware  and  other  thing^. 
His  old  castle  is  now  in  a  ruinous  state.  His  wife  is  buried  in 
the  Hodai-ji,  The  old  Sengen  TempUy  in  a  garden  in  the  N. 
suburbs,  at  the  foot  of  SkUvhata^amay  is  dedicated  to  the 
{ShirUo)  goddess  of  Mt.  Fuji,  A  gaudy  procession  in  honor  of 
this  divinity  is  held  in  the  city  from  April  1  to  5. 

From  an  ecclesiological  viewpoint  the  old  Temples  of 
Kundzan  are  more  interesting  than  any  of  the  city  fanes.  They 
occupy  a  magnificent  position  on  the  summit  of  Kuno  Mt. 
6}  M.  E.  of  Shizuoka  (1  hr.  by  jinriki;  single  fare,  45  sen; 
return,  75;  30%  more  in  bad  weather),  overlooking  the  sea, 
and  900  ft.  above  it.  Here,  in  1582,  leyasu  razed  a  castle  which 
had  been  erected  by  Takeda  Shingen  in  1568,  and  buUt  a  tem- 
ple which  was  to  serve  as  his  tomb  in  1616.  The  body  was 
removed  to  the  fine  Nikko  mausoleum  a  year  later,  but  the 
temples  remain.  They  are  much  after  the  style  of  the  Nikko 
structures,  with  great  vermilion  gateways  and  florid  polychro- 
matic interior  decorations  enriched  by  numerous  wood-carv- 
ings. More  than  a  thousand  steps  have  been  cut  out  of  the 
rocky  hill,  and  as  one  laboriouslv  climbs  the  zigzags  the  views 
in  retrospect  are  delightful.  Splendid  trees  adorn  the  gradu- 
ated terraces;  a  fee  of  20  sen  is  charged  to  see  the  main  temple 
—  which  will  hardly  repay  the  hurried  traveler  for  the  time 
spent  in  visiting  it.  Similar,  and  more  extensive,  views  can 
be  had  at  MaycLsan,  near  Kobe. 

Soon  after  leaving  Shizuoka  the  wide  Abe  River  is  crossed  on 
a  steel  bridge  1829  ft.  long;  the  Kundzan  Promontory ^  the  calm 
waters  of  Suruga  Bay,  and  the  lovely,  hazv  shore  of  the  Izu 
Peninsula  beyond  are  seen  at  the  left.  The  Sekibe  Tunnelj 
2864  ft.  long;  the  Isonohama  Tunnel  (3179  ft.);  the  Hanazawa 
and  the  Seto  Rivers^  and  several  unimportant  stations  are 
passed  before  Shimada  is  reached.  Just  beyond  it  the  line 
crosses  the  wide  Oigawa  on  a  16-span  steel  bridge  (3332  ft.  long) 
which  cost  ¥409,216.  Though  insignificant  in  the  dry  season, 
the  river  often  becomes  a  raging  and  destructive  toTteiA.  m 
summer.  It  rises  in  Shirane-san  (Kai  Proviace\  \a  \3bftT^ 
called  the  Tashiro^awa,  and  it  forma  the  divi^gr^in'^  )a^ 


374    lUnOsU.  .         EAMAMATSU 


twedi  Suruga  and  Totomi  Provinces  before  ending  its  112  M. 
course  at  Suruga  Bay,  Anciently  the  native  boats  were  too 
frail  to  stem  the  surging  current,  and  travelers  on  the  old 
Tokaidd  at  this  point  were  carried  across  the  stream  on  small 
platforms  or  barrows  called  rendai.  The  habit  of  the  naked 
coolies  of  stopping  in  midstream  and  haggling  with  their 
apparehensive  fares  formed  one  of  the  favorite  themes  of  the  old 
color-print  makers.  « 

The  line  now  slopes  sharply  upward  and  is  marked  by 
extensive  earthworks;  at  the  top  of  the  hill  (407  ft.)  the 
Makinohara  Tunnel  (3273  ft.  long;  cost  213,617  'yen)  is 
traversed  and  the  train  descends  (into  T5t6mi  Province) 
through  tea  and  tobacco  plantations.  Three  rivers  are  crossed 
before  131  M.  Kakegawa  (Inn:  Fvjiyay  ¥3  a  day)  is  reached. 
Lovers  of  old  Shinto  shrines  usually  descend  here  for  the  locally 
renowned  temples  of  Akihay  on  the  summit  of  ML  Akiha,  24 
M.  to  the  N.W.  Nondescript  stations,  wide  rice-fields,  and  tea 
and  tobacco  plantations  mark  the  line  to  the  Tenryu  River 
(comp.  p.  391),  which  is  crossed  on  a  19-span  bridge  (3967  ft.; 
one  of  the  longest  in  Japan;  cost  507,000  yen).  150  M.  Hama- 
mcUsu,  or  *  Coast  Fir '  (Inn :  Ogome-^ya;  Hana-ya,  near  station, 
¥  2.50),  with  33,000  inhabs.,  the  chief  town  of  Totomi  Province 
{Shizuoka  Prefecture), was  formerly  called  Hikuma,  and  in 
the  :16th  cent,  was  an  important  daiyiyo  stronghold  under 
Tokugawa  leyasu.  The  ruins  of  the  old  castle  built  by  him  in 
1571  lie  about  1  M.  from  the  station.  The  suburbs  contain 
many  lotus-ponds  that  are  a  flaming  glory  in  Aug.  Consider- 
able drawn-linen  work  is  produced  in  the  region  roundabout. 
Wide  rice-plains  stretch  beyond  to  158  M.  Maisaka^  where 
there  is  a  big  lagoon  called  Hamana  Lake^  or  Hamana  Ko 
(5  M.  from  E.  to  W.  and  7  from  N.  to  S.).  The  great  breakers 
which  curl  in  from  the  s^a  at  the  left  are  beautiful  and  they 
perchance  gave  the  place  its  name.  Japanese  know  it  by 
its  ancient  title  of  To-tsu-awa-umi  (of  which  Totdmiy  the 
naine  of  the  province,  is  a  contraction),  or  *  The  remote  foamy 
sea,'  in  contradistinction  to  Chika-tsu-awa-umif  or  *The  near 
foamy  sea'  —  anciently  the  name  of  the  present  Lake  Biwa. 
The  small  and  locally  popular  island  is  Benten-jima.  The  rly. 
crosses  the  lagoon  on  a  long  causeway.  —  The  bronze  statue 
surmounting  a  (100  ft.)  hill  J  M.  to  the  right  of  ^170  M.) 
Futagawa  Station,  and  approached  by  a  fine  road  flanked  with 
splendid  trees,  is  called  the  Iwaya  no  Kwannon,  and  dates 
from  1765;  the  views  from  the  rock  are  extensive. 

169  M.  Toyohashi  (Inn :  Senzav-rOj  ¥3),  a  garrison  town  (pop. 

44,000)  in  Mikawa  Province  {Aichi  Prefecture),  was  formerly 

called  Yoshida  —  a  name  by  vrYneYv  nvaay  persons  know  it  still. 

A  castle  was  erected  here  in  tVie  15t\i  ceu\..,  Mv^^^^^armed 

and  taken  by  ley  am  in  1564.  X\oivttd^Ti«^\.>j  ol  daiw^o^V^^ 

i^  under  the  Tokugawa  r6©me.  —  TYie\iTa.^O£ix\^.^\a53a.T^Msa 


Praetiadlfaia.  NAGOTA  2|.  Bmia.    875 

haicetol7M.  i^o^nftuMtoacheBatstatkMiBQf  noimpoita^  ^m 
to  foreignen.  At  5  M .  Tagokawa,  there  is  a  loeaUv  celebratied  ^P 
Shintd  afarine.  At  10  M.  Tojo,  the  60^oot  vratofall  ealled 
Ushinotaki  is  worth  locAiiig  at  if  one  happens  to  be  in  the 
neighborhood.  A  great  batUe  was  fought  near  Na^askmo  in 
the  16th  cent,  and  the  soil  is  heavy  with  the  bones  of  the  slain 
wamors.  The  (4  M.)  Buddhist  temple  of  H&raijij  on  ML 
Horai,  calls  for  no  particular  mention. 

Many  charming,  pine-dad  islands  come  into  the  range  of 
vision  after  the  tnun  passes  the  seaside  town  of  175  M.  Goyu. 
Beyond  181 M.  Kamagari  green  hills  wall  in  the  plain,  and  lines 
of  fantastic  and  decrepit  old  pine  trees  flank  the  pictures<|ue 
shore.  The  shadowy  mts.  of  Iffa  and  Ise,  and  the  diminutive 
IMt>vinoe  of  Shuna  (with  its  pearl«divers,  p.  cxx),  wheel  into 
the  range  of  vision  beyond  186  M.  Koda,  where  the  tea  plan- 
tations of  the  hills  have  capitulated  to  lowland  fields  of  rice. 
191  M.  Okazaki  (Inn:  Eagiya^  ¥2.50),  the  chief  town  (pop. 
25,000)  of  Mikawa  Province,  is  celebrated  as  the  birthplace 
(1542)  of  leyasu,  founder  and  greatest  of  the  ahoguns  of  the 
Tokugawa  Ime.  The  remains  of' the  Okazaki  Cattle  (2^  M. 
from  the  station),  in  which  he  was  bom,  are  still  to  be  seen. 
The  tram-cars,  which  leave  from  tiie  right  side  of  the  station, 
go  to  several  suburban  towns.  The  rly.  now  curves  broadly 
to  the  left,  then  crosses  the  wide  Yahagirgawa^  which  rises 
near  the  frontier  of  Mino  and  Shinano,  traverses  Mikawa,  and 
falls  into  the  Gvlf  of  Ovxari,  It  is  celebrated  in  history  as  the 
Washizuka-gatoaf  and  on  its  shores  NiUa  Yoshisada  defeated 
Ashikaga  Tadayoshi  in  1335.  —  The  branch  line  which 
diverges  S.  from  204  M.  Obu  goes  to  (10  M.)  TaketoyOy  a 
small  port  on  the  E.  shore  of  Ise  Bay,  The  many  factory 
chimneys  of  215  M.  Atsuia  (a  suburb  of  Nagoya,  2  M.  by  tram- 
car)  now  come  into  view.  The  AtstUa-daijingUy  supposed  to 
have  been  founded  here  in  a.d.  686,  and  reconstructed  (in 
1893)  in  the  pure  Shintd  style,  after  the  manner  of  the  noted 
Ise  Shrines  at  Yamada  (Rte.  35),  is  said  to  contain  the  precious 
sword  (Kusa-nagi  no  Tsurugi)  which,  with  the  mythological 
mirror  and  jewel,  comprise  the  Imperial  Regalia  that  Susano- 
o-no-Mikoto  found  in  the  tail  of  the  Yamaio  no  orochiy  or  8- 
headed  serpent.  The  spot  is  of  less  interest  to  foreigners  thiui 
the  great  festival  held  here  in  May  of  each  year,  with  the  aim 
of  estimating  the  forthcoming  crop  of  cereals.  —  After  passing 
the  big  gov't  arsenal  (right),  the  train  enters  the  extensive 
suburbs  of  218  M.  Nagoya  (see  below).  For  a  continuation  of 
the  journey  to  Kyoto  see  Rte.  26,  p.  395. 

Nagoya  (nahng-oh'-yah),  6th  largest  and  one  oi  l\ie  tw»\. 

prosperous  manufacturing  cities  (see  the  accompaiiv\iv|t,''^'CL^ 

of  the  Empire;  a  bright,  busy,  cheerful  place  oiv  ^e  '^^  ^ote 

ofA/su^Bat/ajid  the  right  bank  of  the  ShSnai  Rudct;  g«^\\.«^ 

ofl?u>an  Province,  with  430,000  inhabs,,  ia  notsA  lox  y\»  ^^co- 


%' 


376    Route  S4.  NAGOYA  PracHcal  NaU8. 

duction  of  cloisonne,  porcelain,  clocks,  fans,  embroidei^y,  lan- 
terns, and  lacquered  wares,  and  for  its  many  cottonHspinning, 
silk-weaving,  and  other  mills.  Several  rly.  lines  center  here, 
and  steamsmps  connect  the  city  with  other  Japanese  ports. 
Foreigners  know  it  chiefly  for  its  splendidly  preserved  castle 
(one  of  the  finest  in  Japan),  which  Tokugawa  leyasu  made  his 
daimyos  construct  when  he  gave  the  province  in  fief  to  his  (9th) 
son  Yoshinao  (in  1610).  The  place  came  into  history  early  in 
the  14th  cent.,  when  a  family  of  the  name  of  Nagoya  resided 
there.  SMba  Yoshimune,  governor  of  the  province,  built  the 
first  castle  about  1525,  but  the  martial  Oda  Nobunaga  wrested 
it  from  him  in  1532.  After  this  was  razed  and  the  present  castle 
built  on  the  site,  the  place  became  the  seat  of  the  great  dainty 6s 
of  the  House  of  Otoari,  the  family  of  which  ranked  as  one  of  the 
Three  August  Families  (Go  san-ke)  permitted  to  supply  a  suc- 
cessor to  their  kinsman  the  shogun  in  default  of  an  heu:.  It  is 
one  of  the  most  comfortable  places  E.  of  Kyoto  to  break  the 
journey  between  Yokohama  and  Kobe,  particularly  in  mid- 
April,  when  the  city  is  in  an  imusually  joyous  mood.  At  this 
time  the  annual  festival  (said  to  have  originated  with  the  great 
Owari  Clan  during  the  Tokugawa  regime)  of  the  ToshogU 
Shrine  is  celebrated  with  great  pomp.  Portable  sacred  cars 
{mikoahi)  carried  by  stout  men,  escorted  by  robed  Shinto 
priests  on  horseback,  and  followed  by  scores  of  men  in  ancient 
armor  and  mediseval  accouterments,  assisted  by  fantastically 
clad  youths  and  maidens,  parade  the  streets,  and  bridge  the 
gap  between  the  16th  and  the  20th  centuries.  Thousands  of 
Bghted  lanterns  aid  in  the  illuminations  after  dusk  and  present 
a  bewildering  sight.  The  Nagoya  Dances,  performed  by 
geisha;  the  Azalea  Show  in  May,  and  the  Chrysanthemum 
Exhibit  in  Oct.-Nov.  attract  many  Japanese  and  some  for- 
eigners. The  city  was  rather  roughly  shaken  by  the  great 
Mino-Owari  earthquake  of  1891,  and  a  mmiber  of  buildings 
were  demolished. 

The  station  of  the  TSkaido  Railway  is  at  the  W.  edge  of  the  city  (PI.  A,  2) 
where  trains  oi^  the  Kanaai  Line  (to  Yamada-Ise,  see  Rte.  35)  arrive 
and  leave.  The  Chikuaa  Station  (PI.  C,  2),  an  auxiliary  station  of  the  Chud 
or  Central  Line  (Rte.  25,  p.  384),  is  at  the  E.,  and  that  of  the  tram-line  to 
Seto  is  near  the  castle  gate  (PI.  B,  2). 

Electric  Street-Cars  run  to  many  points  in  the  city  and  the  suburbs, 
and  give  a  cheap  and  rapid  service. 

Jinrikia  ([comp.  p.  Ixxxviii)  from  the  station  to  the  (10  min.)  Naooya  Hotels 
15  sen  (20  in  bad  weather  and  after  10  p.m.);  within  the  city,  30  «en  an  hr.; 
25%  higher  at  night  and  on  rainy  days. 

Hotels  (comp.  p.  xxiz).  Nagoya  Hotel,  80,  Tate  mitsugura-chS  (PI.  B,  2); 
rates  from  ¥5  a  day  and  upward.  Am.  pi.;  English  spoken.  Tram-oars  go 
witMn  50  yards  of  the  entrance. 

The  Shops  (comp.  p.    cxii)  are  less  attractive  than  those  of    Kydto, 

Yokohama,  or  TdkyO,  and  English  is  not  always  spoken  in  them  —  except 

by  travelers.  —  Ito'e  Department  Store,  in  Hirokdji  (diagonalbr  across  from 

the  Japan  Bank),  is  patterned  somewhat  after  siniilar  establishments  in 

America.  —  CicaaouoA    (8hipp6) :   T.    Kumeno,  Miwa-machi.  —  /.   Ando, 

yab»-cb6.    Porcelain:  Taahxroya^  50,  N&nama<^ri-ohO. —  Terazatoa  &  Co.^ 

17,  Cbikararouuibi.  Curios  (see  p.  einiy.  SKOgun  SKokav  Q^vwtte  the  hotel 

— AaJbetrin,  274,  Fukuro-maobi. 


Spaniels.  NAGOYA  ^4-  Route,    ^Tl 

The  Bank  of  Japan  (Nippon  Qinkd)  has  a  branch  at  Sakae-machi,  Naka- 
ku;  —  The  MU8ui  Ginko,  at  Temma-chd,  Nishi-ku.  —  The  Polioe  Station 
is  at  Ni^  Shinnnachi;  the  Post-Office,  in  Sakae-machi  Sanohome. 

A  good  idea  of  the  products  of  Nagoya  and  their  selling  prices  can  be 
obtained  at  the  Commercial  Museum.  A  day  is  sufficient  for  the  inspection 
of  the  Castle  and  the  chief  si^ts  hereinafter  described.  Permits  to  see  the 
claisonn6  and  porcelain  factories  can  be  had  of  the  hotel  management.  The 
Potteries  of  Seto  are  similar  to  those  of  Kydto,  and  are  of  interest  chiefly  to 
porcelainists.  There  are  several  Foreign  Missions  in  Nagoya,  and  dates  of 
church  services  and  other  information  relating  to  them  will  be  found  usuallv 
posted  in  the  hotel  lobby.  —  The  main  business  street  is  Hirokdji  (Broad- 
way), which  links  the  Tokaido  Rly.  Station  at  the  W.  with  the  Chikusa 
Nation  at  the  E.  Electric  street-cars  run  its  entire  length.  The  Kinenhi,  or 
War  Monument  (near  the  Nippon  Ginko),  was  erected  in  1901  and  com- 
memorates the  soldiers  of  the  Third  Imperial  Army  Division  who  died  in 
the  Japan-China  War.  Chief  among  the  several  city  parks  is  Nakemiura 
Park,  in  the  W.  suburb,  where  there  are  cherry  blossoms  in  April  and  scarlet 
maples  in  Nov.  A  popular  resort,  similar  to  Asakusa  in  Tdkyd^  is  the  Oau 
Kvoannon  Temple  court,  near  the  center  of  the  city.  The  Kdshoji  at  Yagoto, 
in  the  E.  suburb,  is  likewise  popular;  the  grounds  are  said  to  have  been  laid 
out  originally  on  the  plan  of  JCdf/o-san  (Rte.  28),  and  during  the  reign  of 
Tokugawa  Yoshinao,  pilgrimages  were  made  to  it  and  it  was  called  the 
Kdya-aan  of  Owari. 

"nie  Harbor,  at  the  S.  end  of  the  city,  about  4  M.  from  the  hotel  (tramway), 
has  two  breakwaters  each  over  a  mile  long,  and  an  inner  harbor  with  25  ft. 
of  water  at  low  tide;  the  extensive  docks,  etc.,  were  completed  in  1W7  and 
cost  3  million  yen. 

The  Dog  Shows  held  from  time  to  time  (usually  in  the  Aichi-ken  Coif- 
iiBRCiAL  Museum)  attract  certain  travelers.  Nagoya  dog-fanciers  make  a 
business  of  breeding  Japanese  Spaniels  (chin)  or  pugs,  which  are  produced 
by  careful  in-and-in  breeding,  dieting,  and  tne  selection  of  the  smallest  of 
their  kind.  Good  specimens  are  by  no  means  common,  and  are  never  seen 
running  about  the  streets  unattenoed.  While  mongrels  which  later  develop 
long  legs  and  other  undesirable  features  may  be  had  at  the  bird-stores  for 
¥8-10,  dogs  of  good  pedigree  cost  from  ¥50  to  ¥200  each.  They  are  ex- 
tremely delicate,  and  a  change  of  food  and  climate  is  often  fatal.  Sea- 
captains  who  make  a  business  of  taking  them  to  foreign  countries  (where 
they  are  very  expensive)  often  lose  a  big  percentage  of  the  dogs  in  transit. 
Dried  bonito,  a  little  rice,  and  less  water,  usually  constitute  their  meager 
diet.  Worms  arc  their  greatest  enemies.  The  first  dogs  of  the  kind  ever  seen 
in  America  were  (4)  presented  to  Commodore  Perry  (for  President  Fillmore) 
by  the  Mikado  in  1854.  Essentially  toys,  the  mature  pugs  are  good  only  as 
pets.  They  are  lovable,  gentle,  and  affectionate.  The  points  are:  Head: 
large,  broad,  slightly  rounded  skull;  neck  short  and  moderately  thick. 
Eyes:  large,  dark,  lustrous,  tearful,  rather  prominent  and  wide  apart. 
Muscle:  strong,  wide,  short  from  top  to  nose;  jaws  upturned,  teeth  hidden; 
end  of  tongue  visible;  nose  short  with  wide  endj  and  open  nostrils.  Ears: 
small,  V-shaped,  well-feathered,  set  high  and  wide  apart,  carried  forward. 
Body:  compact,  squarely  built,  cobby,  Uie  body  and  legs  forming  a  square. 
Legs:  hght  in  bone,  small,  slender,  and  well-feathered.  Feet:  sm^,  cat-foot 
in  form,  the  feather  increasing  the  length,  never  the  width.  The  tail  is  car- 
ried over  the  back  in  a  tight  curl,  and  it  is  profusely  feathered.  Coat:  plenti- 
ful, long,  and  straight,  rather  silky,  free  from  wave  and  not  too  fiat.  Color: 
distinctly  defined  black  and  white,  or  red  and  white,  Blenheim  markings 
preferred.  The  best  weights  range  from  about  4  to  8  pounds,  the  smaller  the 
better.  The  scale  of  points  runs  as  follows:  Head,  sise,  and  shape  of  skull, 
10;  shortness  of  face  and  muzzle,  10;  eyes,  10;  ears,  10;  coat  and  markings, 
15;  legs  and  feet,  10;  tail,  10;  size  and  symmetry,  20;  width  of  muzzle,  5. 
Total,  100.  A  valuable  dog  should  always  be  accompanied  by  a  written  pedi- 
gree. A  very  homely  woman  is  often  referred  to  in  Japan  as  having  '  a  faoe 
uke  a  sneezing  chin.' 

The  *  Castle   (Tenshu   KakUy  or  0  Shiro)j  a  cyclopeaa^ 
5-fitoried,  fortified  structure  in  the  N.  quarter  oi  Wi^  Ci\\i'^  ^v. 
B>1),  wjthjn  a  series  of  (dry)  moats  and  in  beautiiMX  \gcQW»i^ 


378    Route  U-  NAGOYA  The  CasOe. 

now  smaller  than  of  yore,  was  begun  in  1611  and  completed 
2  yrs.  later  under  the  superintendence  of  Koto  Kiyomasa, 
Ostensibly  a  voluntary  gift  from  a  score  or  more  feudal  barons 
to  their  Lord  Yoshinao,  it  was  in  reality  constructed  almost 
entirely  by  forced  labor,  which  Fukushima  of  AH,  Koto 
Kiyomasa  of  Kumamoto,  and  Kuroda  of  Chikuzen  chiefly  had 
to  furnish.  The  crafty  leyasu^s  manifest  aim  was  so  to  impov- 
erish the  great  daimyos  that  they  would  be  unable  to  wage  a 
successful  war  against  him,  and  in  this  he  practically  suc- 
ceeded. The  huge,  magnificently  preserved  structiu-e  is 
approximately  150  ft.  high,  with  immensely  solid  walls  15-18 
ft.  thick,  and  244  windows.  Hinoki  is  the  wood  most  employed. 
The  1st  and  2d  floors  measure  120  ft.  from  N.  to  S.  and  108 
from  E.  to  W.;  the  3d  is  90  by  72;  the  4th,  72  by  54;  the  5th, 
64  by  42;  151  steps  lead  from  the  ground  to  the  top  floor,  from 
the  windows  of  which  extensive  views  are  obtainable. 

A  SPECIAL  PERMIT,  easily  obtainable  through  one's  Minister  or  Ambassador 
at  Tdkyo,  is  necessary  to  gain  admittance  to  the  castle.  Without  it  it  is 
useless  to  try  to  get  in,  for  fees  are  not  accepted  and  a  gate-keeper  (officer  in 
the  army)  must  be  passed  before  the  castellan  is  reached.  Furthermore,  as 
the  fortress  (which  m  reality  is  the  Nagoya  Detached  Palace  of  the  Imperial 
Household)  is  under  military  control,  ulterior  motives  might  be  suspected 
and  trouble  provoked.  The  permit  is  good  only  for  the  person  whose 
name  appears  on  it,  so  that  the  traveler  accompanied  by  a  lady  should 
have  her  name  appear  thereon,  else  she  will  be  refused  admittance.  When 
the  pass  is  issued  at  Tdkyd  a  record  is  sent  to  the  castellan  and  is  entered 
in  his  book,  to  be  checked  when  the  permit  is  presented.  The  precaution 
is  p>erhaps  aimed  to  keep  out  undesirables  and  to  have  an  exact  record  of 
those  a(unitt«d.  The  custodian  is  not  permitted  to  deviate  from  the  rule* 
which  is  obeyed  with  military  punctihousncss.  The  hours  of  admission  are: 
Oct.  to  March,  9  a.m.  to  3  p.m.;  April  to  Sept.,  8  to  4.  Shoes  do  not  have 
to  be  removed;  smoking  is  rigorously  prohibited,  as  is  photographing, 
sketching,  or  the  making  of  notes.  An  interpreter  from  the  hotel  may  be 
useful. 

The  buildings  at  the  right  and  left  of  the  wide  Hommachi, 
where  it  terminates  at  the  castle  wall  (kabe)y  are  the  legal  tri- 
bunals (kosain).  The  spacious  esplanades  hereabout  are  used 
as  drill-grounds;  the  barracks  stand  near  by.  A  tramway  now 
runs  through  the  outer  moat  (hori)y  and  the  inner  one  is  seen 
to  be  grass-grown.  The  white  watch-towers  at  the  corners  of 
the  huge  inclosing  walls  are  called  sumiyagura.  The  traveler 
passes  through  the  wide  gap  in  the  big  wall  and  proceeds  left 
to  the  Main  Gate.  The  handsome  metal-studded  gate  at  the 
right  is  opened  only  for  the  Emperor.  The  officer's  lod^, 
where  the  traveler's  permit  must  be  shown  first,  is  just  within. 
The  fir  tree  beyond  the  lodge  is  said  to  be  a  thousand  years 
old.  Continuing  up  at  the  right,  to  the  castellan's  office,  the 
visitor  signs  his  name  in  the  castle  register,  and  is  then  con- 
ducted (by  a  castle  guide,  no  fees)  across  an  inner  moat, 
through  a  small  gate,  to 

The  Castle  Apartments,  of  interest  chiefly  for  the  decora- 

tioBs  by  Matahei  (p.  ccxxviii)  and  various  artists  of  the  Tosa  and 

ICano  schools  (p.  ccxxvii) .   Covers  lot  ^^loea  a^T^^iQ,N\Aftd«A  the 


■The  CcuOe,  NAGOYA  B4.  BatO^    379 

entrance.  The  1st  suite,  called  the  Toranoma,  or  twer  rooms, 
contains  sliding  panels  with  decorations  of  tigers  and  bamboos 
by  Kand  Tanshin  (1663-1718),  and  Kano  Sanraku  (166d- 
1635).  The  locally  celebrated  'sleeping  tiger'  (by  Sanrahu) 
is  a  pudgy  beast  on  a  small  panel  near  the  floor  at  the  left  of 
l^e  entrance. —  When  viewed  from  different  angles  his  bulk 
seems  to  diminish  or  increase,  and  the  natives  regard  this  as 
a  marvel  of  skillful  painting.  The  beautiful  Blhb  of  wood  in  the 
tokonoma  of  the  2a  apartment  is  close-grained  keyahi.  The 
flower-panels  of  the  cnigair^na  (shelves)  are  well  done.  The 
big  central  fvmima  at  the  left  of  the  room  portrays  a  blind 
tiger  standinc  by  its  cub.  The  omission  of  the  eyes  was  inten- 
tional, as  the  Deast  is  thought  (by  easy  critics)  to  be  painted  so 
true  to  the  life  that  if  its  eyes  were  left  in,  so  it  could  see,  it 
would  leap  out  at  any  one  coming  within  reach  of  it!  —  The 
visitor  is  now  conducted  over  the  'nightingale  floors'  (p.  clxxx) 
of  an  adjoining  corridor  to  some  big  cedar  doors  adorned  on 
both  sides  with  tigers  amid  bamboos,  by  Sanraku.  In  the  next 
corridor  are  some  perky  tigers  by  Kano  Eitoku  (1543-90). 
The  two  smaller  doors  at  the  rirfit  are  embellished  with  pines 
and  brightly  colored  leaves  by  Tosa  Mitsuoki  (1617-91).  The 
civet-cats  (jako-^neko)  on  the  reverse  of  the  big  doors  are  be- 
lieved to  look  straight  at  whosoever  regards  them  from  what- 
soever angle.  In  the  Jakononuif  or  Civet-Cat  Room,  some  of 
the  panels  are  decorated  (by  Mitsuoki)  with  these  animals; 
others  bear  peach-  and  apple-blossom  designs.  Daimyos  for- 
merly assembled  in  this  room  at  the  call  of  their  master  the 
shogun. 

The  decorations  (pine  and  maple  trees,  apple  blossoms, 
pheasants,  etc.)  of  the  following  rooms  are  by  Mitsuoki  and 
Eitoku.  The  pierced  panels  with  their  admirable  carvings  are 
said  to  be  each  made  of  a  single  piece  of  wood.  The  Taimenjo 
(Reception  Hall)  contains  some  admirably  painted  sliding 
panels  by  the  inimitable  Domo  no  Malahei.  The  handsome 
black-lacquered  ceilings  are  of  a  checker-board  style  known  as 
gotenjo.  The  landscape  views  on  the  huge  panel  at  the  back 
of  the  alcove  are  taken  from  Arashiyama  and  Aiagoyama  at 
Ky5to.  The  redoubtable  Oda  Nohunaga  once  lived  in  this 
suite.  The  owl  and  oak-tree  decorations  of  the  cedar  doors  of 
the  corridor  are  by  Mitsuoki.  The  large  wall-panels  of  the 
adjoining  corridor,  with  graceful  willow  trees  and  white 
storks  on  a  gold  ground,  are  the  work  of  Tosa  Mitsunohu  (1434- 
1525),  one  of  the  most  celebrated  painters  of  the  Tosa  school. 
The  plain  sunken  squares  of  the  coffered  ceiling  here  are  of 
choice  cryptomeria  wood  from  Satsuma  Province.  The  cedar 
doors  showing  a  waterfall  beneath  arching  trees  (as  well  as  the 
opposite  ones  with  hedges)  are  by  Kano  Koi.  The^  same 
pamter  decorated  the  panels  of  the  Winter  Room,  'wVa^  'v^ 
DOW  enter,  and  which  is  usually  set  aside  for  t\i<e  \Qd\gai%  ol 


380    BmUe  24.  NAGOYA  Tk»  CasOe. 

titled  visitors.  The  snow-laden  trees  with  blue  magpies 
{onagadori)f  and  the  immense  plmn  tree  (about  40  ft.  long)  are 
exceUently  done.  The  rooms  beyond  this  suite  (for  the  si)ecial 
use  of  the  Emperor  and  not  shown  to  visitors)  contidn  some 
fusuma  decorated  with  birds  and  flowers  by  Kano  TanyUf 
and  some  pierced  ramma  carved  by  Hidari  Jingoro.  The  at- 
tractive little  garden  in  the  formal  Japanese  style  differs  but 
little  from  other-similar  landscape  gardens. 

Returning  to  the  entrance,  we  now  proceed  to  the  castle 
proper,  perched  high  on  its  synmietrical  and  massive  founda- 
tion. Kaid  KiyoTTKisa^s  name  is  incised  in  the  3d  big  stone 
from  the  bottom  at  the  corner.  The  entrance  is  through  a 
small  castellated  structure  at  the  left,  thence  along  a  narrow 
inclosed  causeway  called  hashi  dai;  formerly  decorated  with 
armor  and  exposed  at  all  times  to  a  destructive  fire  from  the 
defenders  of  the  donjon.  The  darksome  interior  with  its  huge 
beams  and  forbidding  walls  is  more  like  a  dungeon  than  a 
castle.  The  vaulted  guard-room  is  entered  through  iron- 
studded  doors  opening  on  to  a  series  of  steps  that  lead  to  the 
upper  floor.  At  the  top  of  each  flight  of  ponderous  stairs  are 
heavy  sliding  horizontal  doors  that  bar  one's  upward  progress 
and  recall  stories  of  a  giant's  keep.  At  regular  intervals,  within, 
are  triangular  loopholes  for  cannon,  and  elongated  sHts  down 
which  boQing  water  or  oil  could  be  poured  upon  the  heads  of 
assaulters.  At  each  of  the  four  corners  of  the  top  floor  are 
sliding  windows  with  seats  where  guards  kept  constant  watch 
out  over  the  environing  plain.  In  the  center  is  a  table  with 
scores  of  hues  radiating  in  all  directions,  like  sunbeams,  with 
the  names  of  towns,  roads,  and  passes  whence  enemies  might 
come.  The  views  out  over  the  countryside  are  magnificent, 
and  they  embrace  the  city,  the  mts.  of  Omi  Echizen^  Hida, 
Totomij  Iscy  and  IgOj  as  well  as  the  lordly  Fuji,  which  rises  like 
a  milky  opal  against  the  proud  bosom  of  the  sky.  The  60  ft. 
well  within  the  castle  goes  by  the  usual  name  Ogon  sui,  or 
*  golden  water,'  from  the  common  belief  that  gold  was  thrown 
into  it  to  keep  it  in  a  potable  condition. 

Mediaeval  in  construction,  the  fortress  is  equally  so  in  com- 
fort. A  gloomier  habitation  could  scarcely  be  imagined.  War, 
defense,  and  extreme  solidity  were  the  ideas  in  the  minds  of 
its  builders,  and  while  it  was  never  subjected  to  a  sustained 
assault,  the  formidable  Gifu  earthquake  of  Oct.,  1891,  suc- 
ceeded only  in  opening  an  insignificant  crack  in  its  massive 
sides.  The  superimposed,  copper-bronze  roofs,  and  their  manv 
gables  covered  with  the  green  patina  of  age  are  strikingly  hand- 
some and  graceful.  A  line  of  gilded  Tokugawa  crests  adorns 
the  upper  ridge,  at  each  end  of  which,  twinkling  in  the  sunlight, 
stand  the  famous  gold  dolphins  (kin  no  shachi-hoko),  their  tails 
In  the  air,  and  protected  by  steel  wire  nets  (comp.  Castles, 
p.  dxxxiv),   A  good  field-gl^aaa  m\\  sidWi^  traveler  to  a  better 


Mfueum.  NAGOYA  '   U-  RMde,    881 

view  of  them.  In  1873  the  one  on  the  N.  side  (8  ft.  5  in.  hi|h) 
was  loaned  to  the  Vienna  Exposition,  and  while  it  was  bemg 
bxtmeht  back  to  Japan,  the  French  Mail  Steamer  NU  was 
wrecked  off  the  Izu  coast  and  the  dolphin  remained  in  its 
native  element  from  Feb.,  1874,  to  July,  1875.  The  one  at  the 
S.  is  8  ft.  3  in.  high.  Their  exact  weight  and  value  (estimated 
at  ¥350,000)  are  unknown.  The  dolphins  on  the  smaller  castle 
are  of  copper-bronze. 

The  Aidii-ken  Commercial  Museum  (HakubtUsukwan),  in 
Monzen-ch5,  near  the  center  of  the  city  (PL  B,  2),  —  a  pre- 
fectural  institution  aimed  to  promote  commerce  and  improve 
the  conmiercial  conditions  of  the  keUf  —  is  open  daily  (except 
Monday)  free  to  visitors,  from  9  to  4  in  winter  and  8  to  5  in 
summer.  In  the  well-appointed  rooms  of  the  fine  new  building 
constructed  specially  for  it  (cost,  370,000  yew),  one  may  inspect 
an  interesting  collection  of  the  varied  products  of  Nagoya 
and  vicinity  —  silks,  lacquered  wares,  porcelains,  cloisonn6, 
etc.  The  wholesale  price  is  usually  marked  on  each  article, 
thus  giving  the  traveler  a  fairly  correct  idea  of  what  the  real 
values  are.  English  is  spoken  by  the  management,  which  wel- 
comes foreign  visitors  and  furnishes,  free,  information  relating 
to  manufactured  goods  and  their  makers.  Before  leaving  the 
grounds  one  should  see  the  pretty  garden,  with  its  locally 
celebrated  Sarumen  Chasehi  or  'Monkey-Face  Room,'  built 
by  Oda  Nobunaga  (Toyotomi  Hideyoshi^s  master  when  the 
latter  was  a  boy,  and  to  whom  he  owed  his  diplomatic  train- 
ing). Certain  knots  in  the  roughly  hewn  uprights  of  the  dimin- 
utive room  bore,  in  the  eyes  of  Nobunaga,  a  whimsical  like- 
ness to  the  notoriously  Simian-like  face  of  the  homely  lad, 
whence  the  name.  The  *  Pine  Moon  Cottage '  built  by  the 
12th  daimyo  of  Aichi  Prefecture,  is  also  interesting,  as  on  the 
ceiling  of  the  main  room  is  a  curious  painting  in  sepia  (by  some 
artist  of  the  Kano  school)  of  the  12  signs  of  the  zodiac.  In 
another  room  are  300  different  decorations  by  various  artists, 
all  collected  by  the  daimyo  in  question. 

Aichi  KeUy  the  department  of  which  Nagoya  is  the  chief 
city,  with  1,874,000  inhabs.,  is  known  for  its  manufactures  of 
musical  instruments,  straw  and  chip  braids;  fishing-nets,  rope; 
the  sweet  sake  called  mirin;  and  Arimatsvrshibori,  a  varie- 
gated cotton  cloth  exported  in  large  quantities  to  China  and 
Malaysia. 

The  Higashi  Hongwanji,  a  huge  Buddhist  temple  (of  the 
E.  branch  of  the  Shin-shu)  in  the  S.  quarter  of  the  city 
(PI.  B,  3),  occupies  the  site  of  an  earlier  fane  built  in  1573  on 
the  site  of  the  first  Nagoya  Castle.  The  present  structiu^ 
dates  from  early  in  the  19th  cent.,  and  the  wide  inclosing  walls 
behind  a  small  moat  impart  the  aspect  rather  of  a  fortress  tbaxi 
of  a  temple.  Entering  through  the  E.  gate,  one  coTit\ii\ie»\ife- 
neat^  some  Gne  old  cherry  trees  that  idealize  t\ie  \ivc\owMfe 


382    BotOe  U.    '  NAGOYA  Higashi  Hongwar^. 

with  their  pinkish-white  blossoms  in  early  April.  The  row  of 
low  buildiugs  at  the  left  are  lodging-houses  for  the  pil^^ims, 
who  cook  meii  rice  in  the  great  kitchen  of  the  apartment 
adjoining  the.  temple.  The  Main  Gate  (sammon),  with  triple 
portals  and  great  swinging  doors  finished  in  natural  keycuciF- 
wood,  though  badly  weather-beaten  and  defiled  by  the  many 
jHgeons  that  nest  in  its  sculptured  niches,  is  still  an  attractive 
example  of  early  Buddhist  architecture.  The  usual  dragons, 
waves,  flowers,  arabesques,  and  what-not  form  the  motives  of 
the  maze  of  carvings,  while  some  of  the  numerous  sculptured, 
pierced  wood  panels  have  superimposed  peonies  in  high  reUef 
upon  them.  The  huge  upright  columns  are  set  in  elaborate 
bronze  sockets  that  rest  on  granite  bases.  Minor  bronze 
enrichments  almost  cover  the  structure,  which  admits  one  to 
a  large  yard  that  serves  as  the  playground  for  the  children 
of  the  neighborhood. 

The  immense  double-roofed  temple,  consecrated  to  Amida 
and  flanked  by  handsome  bronze  lanterns,  has  a  noteworthy 
portico  almost  covered  with  sometime  excellent  wood  carvings 
of  elephant-heads,  turtles,  and  the  like.  The  commanding 
antefixes  of  the  main  roof  resemble  triple  cannon  and  impart  a 
militant  air  to  the  structure.  The  extraordinarily  massive 
keyaki-vfood  pillars  of  the  drafty  interior  (108  by  120  ft.)  are 
in  some  cases  3  ft.  in  diameter,  with  ponderous  cross-beams 
deeply  and  elaborately  carved  with  conventional  lions  and 
dragons.  All  the  brilliant  decoration  of  the  interior  is  centered 
in  tibe  naijin,  beyond  the  chancel  rail,  and  when  the  slanting 
rays  of  the  setting  sun  search  out  its  charms,  the  effect  is 
dazzlingly  rich.  The  superbly  carved  and  gilded  ramma  (three 
in  the  center  and  three  at  each  side)  of  the  architrave  are  un- 
usually excellent  examples  of  this  style  of  work.  The  central 
panels  each  carry  two  splendidly  sculptured  tennin  moving 
with  flowing  and  recurved  draperies  amidst  clouds,  with  smaller 
groups  of  phoenixes  and  peacocks  above,  the  motives  being 
extended  to  the  upper  and  lateral  panels.  The  richly  carved 
and  gilded  central  altar  (shumidan)  contains  a  supple  and 
graceful  image  of  Amida  that  looks  placidlv  down  upon  the 
customary  altar  fitments.  The  reliquary  at  the  right  enshrines 
a  portrait  of  the  founder  of  the  sect.  The  kakemono  at  the  left 
portrays  Rennyo-Shonin  (or.  Eto  Daishi),  reformer  of  the 
Shinshu,  and  founder  (1415-99)  of  numerous  Hongwan  tem- 
ples. The  unusually  plain  ceiling  is  coffered. 

The  Tavmenjo^  a  spacious  Assembly  Room  at  the  right  of 
the  main  temple  and  connected  thereto  by  a  short  corridor, 
has  a  coffered  ceiling  with  panels  decorated  in  blue,  and  some 
pierced  ramma  with  some  skillfully  disposed  groups  of  excel- 
lently sculptured  and  highly  decorated  tigers,  birds,  and 
Sowers.  The  noteworthy  fusuma  here,  with  landscape  views  on 
a  ^old  ground,  and  the  big  cedai  dooia  decorated  with  iridea- 


Kakud-den.  NAGOYA  £4.  BouU.    883 

c&at  peacocks,  are  by  some  unknown  artist.  It  is  worth  while 
oontinning  through  this  room  to  the  great  kitchen  (daidokoro) 
with  its  ponderous,  rough-hewn  beams,  and  big  cauldrons 
where  visiting  pilgrims  Boil  their  rice.  On  the  return,  the 
bonze  conducts  one  to  the  end  of  a  long  corridor  and  to  a  suite 
once  occupied  by  the  late  Emperor  and  overlooking  a  pretty 
landscape  garden.  The  tiny  ckaseki  in  the  severe  chcHio-yu 
style  resembles  a  dolPs  house  and  is  shown  only  to  special 
visitors.  The  adjoining  suite  contains  some  rather  indifferent 
fttsuma  embeUished  with  Chinese  figiu^s. 

The  traveler  with  time  to  spare  and  a  taste  for  bizarre 
rather  than  meritorious  sculpture,  may  Uke  to  look  into  the 
Buddhist  temple  of  KakuO-den,  at  Higashv-yama  (PL  D,  2), 
in  the  E.  suburb.  The  collection  of  small  figiu'es  here,  known 
as  the  Gb-Hyaku  Rakan,  or  *Five  Hundred  Disciples  of 
Buddha,'  was  formerly  housed  in  the  old  Dairyu-ji.  With  the 
exception  of  18  strongly  carved  figures  in  the  natural  wood, 
ascribed  to  Tametaka  (a  modem  artist),  all  are  about  21  ft. 
high,  are  painted  in  painfully  lurid  colors,  and  are  said  to  be 
upward  of  250  jrrs.  old.  The  16  statuettes  called  JUrroku  zenji, 
or  the  'Sixteen  Buddhist  Priests,'  are  considerably  older  than 
the  rest  and  are  attributed  to  some  unknown  sculptor  of  the 
12th  cent.  The  Gods  of  the  Four  Directions  were  given  to  the 
temple  by  the  3d  Tohugawa  shogun.  The  500  shabby,  unwashed 
figures  are  ranged  about  the  temple  on  several  tiers;  the  variety 
of  features  and  expressions  is  remarkable.  The  Japanese  say 
that  'a  little  careful  searching  will  enable  any  man  to  find  the 
likeness  of  his  father.'  The  traveler  with  any  pride  of  race  will 
accept  this  dictum  with  mental  reserve,  for  a  coarser,  more 
degraded  lot  of  ugly  faces  could  scarcely  be  found  in  any  rogues' 
gaUeiy.  All  Eastern  nationalities  appear  to  be  represented, 
and  there  are  not  two  faces  or  attitudes  alike.  Some  are  por- 
trayed laughing;  others  weeping;  some  leer  and  look  unutter- 
ably stupid;  one  figure  has  deeply  set  eyes,  an  aquiline  nose, 
ana  thin  lips;  anotner  a  pug  nose,  squintmg  eyes,  and  a  broad, 
grinning  mouth.  Some  ride  astride  animals  and  birds;  others 
have  halos,  one  eye,  a  hook  nose,  or  three  eyes.  Idiots  with 
drooping  heads  and  hanging  lower  lips  look  out  with  fishy  eyes, 
and  maniacs  glint  hatred  at  one,  from  cunning  eyes  that  make 
one  shiver.  Nearly  all  the  figures  look  the  worse  for  drink,  and 
the  admission  fee  of  10  sen  fixes  correctly  their  artistic  value. 
—  The  chief  treasure  of  the  temple  is  what  purports  to  be  one 
of  Buddha's  bones,  presented  in  1902  by  the  King  of  Siam  to 
the  Emperor  of  Japan. 

The  Potteries  of  Seto,  in  Seto  town,  Kasugai  district,  prov- 
ince of  Owari,  lie  about  12  M.  N.E.  of  Nagoya^  and  are  reached 
by  the  tram-cars  which  run  at  frequent  intervals  ftoTft.  \)aft 
Honmachi  gomon  (or  Seto)  Station  near  the  castle.  T\ifc  \.TbiN- 
eier  'mterested  in  Ceramics  may  inspect  the  proceaa  ol  xaawxi- 


384    J2fe.  25.        FROM  NAGOYA  TO  TOKYO 

facture  throughout,  but  if  he  be  pressed  for  time  he  may  see 

?ractically  the  same  work  in  certain  of  the  KySto  potteries, 
'he  wares  now  made  at  Seto  (5000  men  employed)  are  Imown 
to  the  trade  as  Seto  mono,  a  name  that  has  gradually  come  to 
mean  earthenware  or  porcelain.  The  first  pottery  was  estab- 
lished by  Kaio  Shirozaemon  (comp.  p.  ccUi),  one  of  the  first 
masters  of  Japanese  Ceramic  art,  in  the  13th  cent.  The  district 
is  one  of  the  most  important  in  Japan,  with  a  School  of  Cer- 
amics and  a  Pottery  Museum,  the  latter  of  interest  to  por- 
celainists.  The  Seto  porcelain,  which  is  of  a  more  glassy 
nature  than  Arita  ware,  less  tough  and  more  easily  broken, 
covers  a  wide  range  and  includes  almost  every  variety  of  article 
for  household  use.  There  is  a  charming  variety  of  glazes,  and 
the  best  pieces,  usually  much  prized  by  the  natives,  are  bought 
for  the  home  markets.  Fine  Seto  mono  is  made  of  practically  the 
same  ingredients  (kaolin,  gray-white  feldspar  of  granite,  blue- 
white  quartz,  etc.)  as  the  Kiyomizuryaki  (see  p.  cclvi),  and 
they  can  scarcely  be  distinguished  one  from  the  other. 

25.  From  Nagoya  viH  Shiojlri  (Matsumoto,  Shinonoi, 
Niigata)  and  Kofu  to  Tdkyd. 

Central  (ChBo)  Main  Line  of  the  Imperial  Government  Railways. 

To  Tdkyd,  253  M.  Several  trains  daily  in  about  15  hrs.;  fare,  ¥7.28, 
Ist  d. ;  ¥4.37.  2d  cl.  DininK-cara  and  station  refreshment-rooms.  For  refer- 
ence to  sleeping-cars  see  p.  Ixxxiii.  The  run  from  Nagoya  vi&  Shiojiri  (109  M. ; 
fare,  ¥3.93,  1st  cl.;  ¥2.36,  2d)  to  Shinonoi  (150  M.;  fare,  ¥4.98,  lat  d.; 
¥2.99,  2d)  —  where  connections  are  made  with  trains  of  the  Shinr^u  Line 
for  Nagano,  and  Niigata,  at  the  N.,  and  Karuizawa  at  the  S.E.  —  is  made 
in  about  10  hrs.  The  rly.  parallels  the  historic  Nakasendd  ('Road  between 
the  mountains  ';  280  M.  from  Kyoto  to  T6ky5)  over  the  lofty  mt.  ranges  of 
Central  Japan,  and  traverses  a  little-known  region  celebrated  for  its  wild 
beauty.  The  charming  scenery  comprises  a  succession  of  stupendous  mts. 
(known  as  the  Japanese  Alps),  deep  gorges  down  which  dash  roaring,  foam- 
ing rivers,  dense  forests,  and  sequestered  valleys,  flecked  here  and  there  with 
primitive  villages  whose  simple  inhabitants  still  dream  the  dreams  of  C3ld 
Japan.  The  ghmpses  of  rural  Ufe  are  delightful.  From  Nagoya,  in  Otoari 
Province,  the  rails  cross  Mino,  Shinano,  and  Kai,  before  entering  Sagami, 
then  Musashi,  on  T5ky6  Bay.  Fifteen  yrs.  were  required  to  build  the  road, 
which  presented  the  most  serious  engineering  difficulties  of  any  in  Japan. 
When  completed  it  was  found  to  have  cost  43,319,629  yen,  exclusive  of 
rolHng-stock,  or  upward  of  171,000  yen  a  mile  (against  approx.  40,000  yen 
for  a  line  built  on  a  level  plain).  For  224  M.  it  traverses  a  rocky,  mountain- 
ous region  in  which  there  are  194  tunnels  and  350  bridges.  Sixty-five 
important  rivers  are  crossed  on  wide  bridges,  conspicuous  among  them  that 
over  the  Kiso-gaioa.  Some  of  the  tunnels  are  built  on  a  tremendous  slant, 
and  are  marvels  of  engineering  skill;  the  Sasago,  15,275  ft.,  is  the  longest  in 
Japan.  The  Kobotoke,  8350  ft.,  has  one  end  135  ft,  lower  than  the  other.  The 
Torii  Tvnnel,  besides  being  5428  ft.  long,  represents  the  highest  point  (3189 
ft.  above  sea-level)  reached  by  any  rly.  in  the  Empire.  Several  of  the  minor 
tunnels  are  unusually  long  —  The  Uto,  5429  ft. ;  Ohikoge,  4489  ft. ;  Fuka- 
tawa,  3627  ft.;  Makigane,  2359  ft.,  etc.  The  rly.  is  of  great  strate^c  as  well 
as  commercial  value,  forming  as  it  does  a  short  cut  between  the  big  trading 
ports  of  the  Inland  Sea  and  the  Pacific  Ocean,  and  the  wealthy  prefectures 
of  Niigata,  Nagano,  and  Yamanashi  —  the  former  known  for  its  vast  pro- 
duction of  oil  and  rice,  and  the  others  for  raw  silk  and  various  things. 

Nagoya  (see  p.  375).  The  rly.  half-circles  the  city,  crosses 
the  Hankawa  to  the  Chifcusa  Slotiou,  VJcieii  xxxjoa  \iQrthwaid 


SetoPotiery.  ENA-SAN  2^.  Route.    385 

over  an  ascending,  well-watered  country,  past  Ozone  and 
Kachigawa  to  15  M.  Kdzqji  (264  ft.)>  where  it  penetrates 
the  hills,  enters  Mino  Province,  and  follows  the  Tamana-' 
gatoa  upward  between  high  green  mts.  Fourteen  tunnels  are 
threaded  before  the  plain  (415  ft.),  on  which  M.  22  Tajimi 
stands,  is  reached.  The  r^on  roundabout  (often  referred  to 
collectively  as  Hokeizan)  is  known  for  its  many  potteries, 
scattered  over  a  radius  of  several  miles,  where  the  celebrated 
Seto  mono  or  Seto  yaki  is  made.  Specimens  of  this  fragile  ware 
are  sold  at  the  stations  hereabout,  in  the  form  of  dainty, 
cream-colored  tea-pots  {dohin)  decorated  with  black  ideo- 
graphs and  accompanied  by  handleless  cups,  hot  water,  and 
a  tiny  cambric  bag  of  native  tea  —  the  complete  eauipment 
costing  4  sen.  Hard  by  the  station  (1  M.)  is  the  well-known 
Buddhist  temple  (said  to  have  been  founded  in  the  14th  cent.) 
of  Eihdji,  on  Hokeizan,  Japanese  are  fond  of  boating  on  the 
adjacent  Toki  River,  whose  banks  are  covered  with  lovely  wild 
azalias  in  eariy  May.  —  Beyond  a  series  of  tunnels  (chief 
among  them,  the  Makigane)  are  the  unimportant  stations  of 
Tokitsu  (picturesque  foot-bridge  at  the  right,  between  high 
bluffs) ;  Mizunami  (a  shipping-point  for  the  fine  gray  speckled 
granite  quarried  in  the  adjacent  hills) ;  Kamado^  and  Oi  (985 
ft.)*  From  50  M.  Nakatsu,  on  the  river  of  the  same  name, 
comes  much  of  the  firewood  used  in  Nagoya;  the  small  town 
stands  near  the  N.W.  base  of  Enasan  (7466  ft.),  a  bulky  mt. 
on  the  border-line  between  Mino  and  Shinano  Provinces. 
Climbers  customarily  make  the  easy  ascent  (one  day  up  and 
back;  guide,  ^)  from  here,  for  the  sake  of  the  magmficent 
views.  The  silk-mills  in  the  town  give  employment  to  the 
majority  of  the  population. 

The  scenery  now  becomes  wild  and  picturesque;  the  rly. 
runs  through  deep,  somber  valleys  between  lofty  hills;  into 
tunnels  cut  through  the  heart  of  towering  mts.,  ana  over  titanic 
granite  culverts  spanning  confluents  of  the  Kiso  River.  This 
stream  (135  M.  long),  one  of  the  San-dai-kai,  or  'Three  Great 
Rivers,'  of  Japan  (the  others  being  the  Tone  —  and  the 
Shinano-gatoa),  dominates  the  land  like  a  tempestuous  spirit 
and  tears  down  through  the  gorges  like  a  wild  thing,  bear- 
ing on  its  tortured  bosom  (in  autumn  and  winter)  thousands 
of  peeled  logs  that  batter  the  cafion  wall  and  the  rounded 
boulders  in  midstream  on  their  swirling  voyage  to  the  sea.  For 
many  miles,  the  rly.  keeps  in  sight  of  the  river,  as  if  mistrust- 
ing it;  now  rushing  beside  it  on  some  spider-like  bridge  sus- 
pended between  shoulders  of  the  solid  hills,  now  creeping  high 
above  it,  along  some  ticklish  terrace  just  wide  enough  for  the 
rails  and  for  the  splendid  old  Nakasendo.  which  winds  hke 
a  bnmd  white  ribbon  over  the  mts.  Tucked  away  in  green 
aaehea  in  the  hills  are  picturesque  dwellings)  theix  ieeX.  ^«^%dL 
j^the  river^  their  roots  covered  with  thin  shini^^  Yk!c\<dL  df^inx 


386    BauUSd,  AZUMI-BASHI  The  Kiao-ffowa. 

by  scores  of  cobblestones.  Croups  of  them  stand  far  up  the 
broad  slopes  as  they  do  in  Switzerland  and  the  Austrian  Tyrol, 
while  still  higher  are  the  isolated  huts  of  charcoal  burners, 
advertised  by  the  blue-black  smoke  cm-ling  above  them.  Tus- 
socks of  sword-like  bamboo  grass  dot  the  slopes,  which  here 
and  there  sparkle  with  Alpine  flowers.  Interesting  features 
of  the  river  are  the  immense  piles  of  logs  which,  wedged  in  be- 
tween stones  and  rocky  walls,  form  booms  that  scores  of  agile 
men  with  long  poles  work  desperately  to  dislodge.  Some- 
times, too,  one  has  the  fugitive  chance  to  see  one  of  these 
booms  break  suddenly,  and  rush  violently  downstream  while 
the  men  scamper  to  safety  across  the  treacherous,  churning 
mass.  The  Japanese  lack  of  nerves  is  often  exemplified  here 
on  the  long,  dizzy,  slender  foot-bridges  of  piano  wire,  strung 
high  above  the  river,  with  shingles  as  cross-pieces,  but  which 
the  men  and  women  traverse  with  the  swaying  agiUty  of  tight- 
rope walkers.  From  hidden  timber-camps  on  the  higher  slopes 
of  the  mts.  wooden  troughs  or  chutes  lead  through  lateral 

f gorges  to  the  river,  and  down  them  slide  endless  Unes  of  bark- 
ess  trees. 

Beyond  55  M.  Sakashitaj  the  Azuminbashi,  a  spider-like 
bridge  suspended  80  ft.  above  the  river,  is  seen  at  the  right. 
Between  high  granitic  hills  at  the  left  a  fine  view  is  had  of 
the  stream  as  it  sweeps  in  magnificently,  from  a  broad  bend. 
The  train  edges  along  a  meager  terrace  cut  bodily  from  the  mt. 
side,  far  above  the  old  pike.  Certain  of  the  slopes  which  here- 
about have  shown  signs  of  erosion,  have  been  sheathed  with 
broad  stone  revetments  that  would  do  credit  to  a  knight's 
castle.  Far  below  them  are  superb  retaining  walls  finished  like 
jeweler's  work  and  protected  from  the  ravenous  river  by 
gabions  in  the  form  of  long  cylindrical  baskets  (called  jakagoy 
or  *  serpent-baskets')  of  wickerwork,  filled  with  cobblestones, 
tied  with  tough  withes,  and  laid  in  sinuous  rows  along  the 
bank  of  the  stream.  Beyond  61  M.  Midono  (1443  ft.),  a  poor 
town  in  Shinano  Province  (sometimes  made  the  starting-point 
for  the  Tenryu  River  rapids;  see  p.  391),  the  rly. passes  through 
the  Hanamaki  Tunnel^  then  runs  along  the  top  of  a  huge  wall 
built  at  enormous  expense;  the  river  plunges  along  far  below, 
bearing  its  ever-present  burden  of  logs.  Upward  of  50,000 
trees  (pine  and  fir  forming  the  bulk  of  them)  are  said  to  be 
started  downstream  every  fall  and  winter,  and  the  numerous 
sawmills  visible  from  the  train  now  use  steam  as  an  aid  to  the 
rapid  deforestation  of  the  mts.  Vast  quantities  of  timber  of 
exceptional  size  and  quality  is  produced;  chiefly  the  beech, 
borse-chestmxti  maple,  walnut,  and  Spanish-chestnut  —  re- 
ferred  to  frequently  as  tlie  *  YWe  Tt^^  cii  K\so/  The  house- 
r€}ofa  hereabout  have  wide,  pto)eclVsi^e«vea,\^^L^>i)ftfe^^^iMisgi 
of  the  Swiss  peasants,  and  axe  V7e\^\^  ^o^  ^^  ^sa^ 
stoncB  to  protect  them  agaaBst  tYie  \ji\fiD^  >N*m^.   '^'oa*.  \s^ 


Kcmagatake.  KOMAGATAEE  iSS,  Rauie.    387 

beneath  these  eaves  haiig  curious  fanning  implements, 
v^etables,  and  the  miscellaneous  articles  usually  seen  in  a 
store-room.  The  birds  in  wicker  cages  are  thrush-4ike  ousels 
(tsugumi),  which  are  used,  as  decoys  for  others,  and  are  men- 
tioned at  p.  ciii. 

71  M.  Svhara,  Many  mt.  streams  plunge  down  the  slopes 
hereabout  and  some  are  made  to  turn  big  overshot  or  under- 
shot water-wheels  that  furnish  power  for  hulling  grain. 
Patches  of  pollarded  mulberry  trees  dot  the  fields,  and  most  of 
the  house  lofts  are  given  over  to  the  rearing  of  silk-worms. 
During  the  short  winter,  the  snow  lies  deep  over  this  region, 
which  is  rugged  and  strangely  imhke  the  soft,  effeminate 
Japan  of  the  Inland  Sea.  At  the  left  of  the  line  is  a  locally 
celebrated  feature,  a  primitive  aerial  ferry,  Tsurir^oski  (\\%,t 
'Suspended  chair'),  in  the  form  of  a  series  of  stout  piano- 
wires  swung  high  above  the  stream,  and  over  which,  by  means 
of  another  drag-wire,  cool-headed  travders  draw  a  cage  Uke 
the  body  of  an  open  palanquin  (a  contrivance  in  which  only 
a  steeple-jack  would  care  to  travel).  The  small  waterfall  of 
Ono-no-taki  is  soon  seen  at  the  right,  sliding  gracefully  over 
a  stone  ledge  to  a  quiet  pool  below.  Near  by,  at  the  left,  is 
the  locally  famous  Bed  of  Awakening  (^  Nezame-fio^oko') 
amid  a  bit  of  river  scenery  which  some  writers  enthusiastically 
rank  with  the  finest  in  Japan. 

At  a  bend  in  the  river,  where  some  picturesque  rocks  confine  the  stream 
to  a  narrow  channel,  stands  an  old  Bikldhist  temple,  the  Rimenyi,  while 
below  it  is  a  stone  platform  whence  one  commands  a  sweeping  view  of  a 
really  charming  bit  of  scenery  emphasiised  by  the  furiously  swu-Ung  river. 
According  to  one  tradition,  UrashimaTaro,  the  fisher-boy  (see  p.  cclix),  awoke 
here  from  his  fantfistic  dream,  and  the  credulous  country  folk  will,  provided 
they  can  get  a  listener,  point  out  the  very  spot  where  the  unfortunate  lover 
of  the  Sea  God's  daughter  opened  his  precious  casket.  They  will  strongly 
combat  the  more  reasonable  theory  that  the  '  awakening  '  implies  that  the 
casual  traveler  will '  sit  up  and  take  notice  '  when  he  sees  the  beauty  of  the 
place. 

75  M.  Agematsu  (Inn:  Hakuchiy  ¥  2.50),  a  sequestered  town 
in  the  midst  of  a  labyrinth  of  hills  (many  pretty  excursions), 
has  numerous  sawmills  and  quaint  water-wheels  and  is  usually 
made  the  point  of  departure  for  the  (10  M.;  6-7  hrs.)  ascent 
of  Komagatake  (Foal  Mt. ;  a  name  applied  to  numerous  peaks 
in  Japan).  The  bulky  granitic  mass  (9500  ft.)  rises  grandly 
at  the  N.E.,  and  besicies  forming  the  culminating  point  of  the 
Kiso  Rangcy  separates  the  Kiso  Valley  from  that  of  the 
neighboring  Tenryu  River. 

Guides  (necessary,  comp.  p.  xxvi)  can  be  found  in  the  village  (consult  the 
innkeeper)  for  ¥6  for  the  round  trip.    A  number  of  poor  rest-houses  provide 
shelter  by  the  wayside.  Travelers  boimd  for  the  rapids  of  the   TerwvfCL-QaMWJ. 
sometimes  cross  the  summit  and  descend  to  the  viWagiea  oi  lua  ox  A.Vao« 
near  the  E.  base,  in  the  Inakaidd  District.  Forests  oi  hoTse-c>a«eX.^'vv\.,>oefc^* 
£r,  and  other  evergreen  and  deciduous  trees  belt  the  VoNvet  B\ap«s,  wAN»^«^ 
merge  into  pme  grovea.    Higher  up  one  fixkls  the  creepttittrpme*  viViViy  «» 
SlS^f^^ '^w"'^ ^^ *^5  *?P«  of  many  Japan^ m^.  ^^e\>toi[xw. vav^^ 
m  one  of  the  ndgea  patted  in  the  asc^t  cSimSDOtatftB  SKimm*^  Kew^w, 


388    Route  25.       EISO-FUKUSHIMA  OnUike. 

the  first  pUgrim-mountaineer  to  climb  to  the  sumnut.  The  Shinto  shiine  at 
the  top  is'dedicated  to  the  Si>irit  of  the  Mt.  The  highest  point,  Shakt^d-gor 
iaJce^  is  so  called  from  its  fancied  resemblance  to  the  staff  or  croaer  carried  by 
wandering  Buddhists.  The  view  from  the  simmiit  is  grand;  embracing  a 
score  or  more  lofty  peaks,  some  of  them  smoking  volcanoes. 

Many  queer-looking  peasants  plod  along  the  broad  high- 
way beyond  Agemalsu.  The  lofty,  bare,  sacrosanct  ChUcUce, 
astride  the  border-line  between  Shinano  and  Hida  Provinces, 
is  seen  at  the  far  left.  For  the  time  being,  the  scenery  loses 
much  of  its  grandiose  character.  —  82  M.  Kiso-Fukushima 
(2647  ft.),  end  of  a  rly.  district  and  the  most  important  town 
(pop.  5000)  in  the  district,  stretches  along  both  banks  of  the 
Kiso  River f  which  here  (a  few  miles  from  its  source  near  the 
Torii-tdge)  is  a  shallow,  nondescript  stream  flowing  placidly 
between  bald  and  monotonous  hills.  The  bare  slopes  here- 
about advertise  the  evils  of  deforestation.  —  An  up-grade  and 
4  tunnels  are  features  of  the  line  to  the  poor  town  of  YabtLhara, 
where  wood  combs  (said  to  have  been  invented  by  the  wife  of 
IzanagiHno-Mikoto)  are  made.  Beyond  it,  the  inmiense 
stone  walls  built  by  the  rly.  to  protect  its  track  from  land- 
slips seem  to  cover  the  entire  country.  A  stiffish  uphill  pull 
brings  the  train  to  the  Torii-tdge  and  tunnel  mentioned 
above.  The  conspicuous  pass  (toge)  —  the  watershed  of  the 
Kiso-^awa  (which  empties  into  Owari  Bay)  and  the  Shinano- 
gawa  (which  flows  into  the  Japan  Sea  near  Niigata)  —  de- 
rives its  name  from  the  huge  granite  lorii  (p.  clxxxii)  which  is 
supposed  to  mark  the  *  front  entrance'  to  the  holy  ML 
Ontake  —  whose  dark,  serrated  cone  rises  a  score  or  more 
miles  to  the  left. 

Ontake  ('August  Mt/),  or  Mitake,  one  of  the  loftiest  (10.400  ft.)  and 
most  sacred  (2d  to  Fuji-aan)  of  the  Japanese  peaks,  and  to  which  many 
thousands  of  pilgrims  go  each  year,  is  usually  approached  from  Kiso- 
Ftikuahima,  23  M.  from  the  summit,  at  the  S.E.  —  whence  it  can  be  reached 
in  10-12  hrs.  on  foot.  -Guides  are  plentiful  (¥4),  as  about  every  person  in 
the  neighborhood  has  made  the  ascent.  Throughout  the  summer  months, 
an  almost  continuous  stream  of  ant-like  pilgrims  toil  up  the  mt.  side  to  pray 
before  the  picturesque  shrine  on  its  summit.  An  alternate  way  (often  used 
in  the  descent)  is  by  the  so-called  *back  entrance,'  vi&  Odaki  —  a  3  hrs.  walk 
from  Agematsu  through  lovely  scenery.  The  customary  trail  from  Kiao- 
Fukuahima  ia  through  the  (7  M.)  village  of  Kurosawa  (whence  a  road 
branches  off  to  Agematsu).  The  Jwo-haiden  shrine  marks  the  actual  base  of 
the  mt.  Here  pilgrims  may  buy  staffs  and  have  their  garments  stamped  with 
the  seal  certifying  that  they  have  made  the  ascent  of  the  holy  peak.  There 
are  several  rest-houses  on  the  slope,  each  marking  the  successive  stages  to  the 
top.  Six  large  and  2  small  craters  are  features  of  the  summit,  one  contain- 
ing a  lake  in  which  pilgrims  soak  cloth  or  paper  to  take  home  with  them. 
The  shrine,  from  which  a  magnificent  panorama  is  obtainable,  is  surrounded 
by  stone  and  bronze  images,  ideographic  tablets,  and  what-not,  laboriously 
dragged  up  the  steep  incline. 

From  Torii-tdge  —  the  highest  point  on  the  Kisokaido  — 
the  train  descends  through  several  tunnels  and  past  unim- 
portant stations  in  surroundings  which  recall  vistas  in  the 
liocky  Mta.  of  the  U.S.A.    The  views  of  the  towering  mt. 
range  at  the  left  are  spleiK^d.  A.  bio«A\r^\^M  \^aSxi  stretches 


8kimo9uwa,  SHIOJIIU  SS.  Route.    389 

away  at  the  left  of  the  small  station  of  106  M.  Sfba^  beyond 
whidiis 

108  M.  Shiojiri  (2451  ft.  Inn:  Kawakami,  ^.50),  on  the 
great  watershed  between  the  N.  and  S.  half  of  Centiul  Japan, 
144  M.  from  Tokyd  at  the  E.,  and  42  frOm  Skinonoi  at  the  N. 

T5kyo  passengers  who  find  themselves  in  the  through  ear  for  Shinonoi  or 
Nagano  must  change  here  into  a  T5kyd  ear  or  train,  while  those  bound  for 
either  of  the  two  above-named  places  should  make  sure  that  they  are  in  the 
light  car.    The  bento  sold  on  the  station  platform  usually  eontains  good  fish. 

The  train  of  the  Shinonoi  Line  to  Shinonoi  Jet.  (on  the  Shin^etsu  Line, 
Rte.  6,  p.  65)  makes  the  run  in  about  3  hrs.  and  traverses  a  mountainous 
country  dotted  with  upland  plains  devoted  to  the  cultivation  of  the  great 
stifle,  rice.  The  chief  town  on  the  line  is  (8  M.)  Matsumoto  (Inn:  Marumo, 
¥2.50),  an  important  conunercial  center  on  a  broad  plain  (in  Shinano  Prov- 
ince) surrounded  by  magnificent  mts.  Its  eftrly  history  is  associated  with 
the  exploits  of  the  redoubtable  Takeda  Shingen^  who  in  1549  besieged  the 
castle  (erected  in  1504  by  Shimadate  Sadanaga)  and  made  himself  master  of 
the  re^on.  Oda  Nchunaga  took  it  later,  and  during  the  Tokuoatoa  regime 
the  original  name,  Fukaahi,  was  changed  to.  Matsumoto.  Toda,  with  an 
ftTipxiftl  income  of  60,000  koku  of  rice,  ruled  as  daimyo  at  the  time  of  the 
RestcMration.  Raw  edlk  is  now  (Hie.  of  the  chief  products.  The  river  which 
flows  through  the  city  is  the  Sai-gawa,  a  tributary  of  the  Chikumargatoat 
which  later  becomes  the  broad  Shinano-gaiva.  The  inclosed.  pa4dle^wheel 
boats  one  sees  anchored  in  mid-stream  are  primitive  riceHmllB  which  get 
power  from  the  current.  The  Atama  Hot  Sffringe,  in  the  N.E.  suburbs,  hAve 
good  baths  and  are  popular  resorts. 

From  Shiojiri  the  Tdkyd  line  diverges  to  the  right  (E.) 
and  follows  the  Nakctsendd  on  an  up-grade  through  3  tun- 
nels; the  last,  the  Utd^  5429  ft.  long,  on  a  sharp  incline. 
Sweeping  views  at  the  left  as  we  emerge.  Beyond  OnOy 
with  its  silk-mills,  the  valley  narrows  and  becomes  very  pic- 
turesque. The  houses  of  the  peasantry  are  nearly  all  a(iapted 
to  silk-worm  culture  and  the  product  is  worked  up  at  the 
numerous  mills  at  Okayay  which  we  soon  pass.  Many  of  these 
filiature  mills  stand  on  the  banks  of  the  TenryUrgawaf  ht)m 
which  a  certain  amount  of  power  is  obtained  through  lines  of 
large  undershot  water-wheels  that  present  an  odd  sight  and 
look  like  the  discarded  paddle-wheels  of  old  steamboats. 
Upwards  of  500  girls  are  employed  in  the  millff,  which  are 
usually  two-  or  three-storied,  white,  with  slender  steel  chim- 
neys and  many  windows.  Among  the  choice  fruits  (which 
the  Japanese  usually  pick  green)  raised  in  the  neighborhood 
are  excellent  quinces  (marumero)  -^  which  are  preserved 
and  made  into  jelly.  The  broad  lake  in  the  horseshoe-shaped 
pocket  of  the  hills  at  the  right  is  Suioa,  The  exquisite  mt. 
peak  vignetted  in  the  V-shaped  saddle  between  two  of  the 
hills  (one  of  the  most  charmmg  little  vistas  in  Japan)  is  the 
matchless  Fuji. 

126  M.  Shimosuwa  (Inn:  Kameya;  natural  hot  baths; 
¥3),  2616  ft.,  near  the  base  of  (5300  ft.)  Wadchtoge,  on  the 
N.  shore  of  Lake  Suwa^  in  Shinano  Province,  was  formerly 
the  castle  town  of  the  Sv^wa  daimy da  axid  was  called  Tofcor 
gliima.   After  Takeda  Shingen  vacated  tl^  GaSt\^  Vxi  \1qI&^  \^ 


390    Route  26,  EAMISUWA  Lake  Suwa. 

passed  to  other  hands,  to  be  burned  by  Nobunaga's  soldiery 
in  1582,  and  reconstructed  by  Hineno  Takayoahi  in  1590. 
Toku^wa  leyasu  reinstated  Sutoa  YorUada  in  his  family 
domain  in  1601,  and  thenceforward  his.  descendants  occupied 
the  old  keep  until  the  Restoration.  Many  of  the  kinsmen  of 
the  aforetime  feudal  barons  are  now  engaged  in  sericulture, 
and  the  silk  produced  in  the  neighborhood  and  spun  in  the  local 
mills  ranks  with  the  finest  in  «lapan.  Legend  intimately  asiso- 
ciates  the  town  with  Kami  (upper)  Swwa  at  the  opposite  end 
of  the  lake.  An  improbable  narrative  (translated  from  the 
Kojihi)  relates  that  the  forebears  of  the  Japanese  anciently 
made  their  winter  home  at  Shimosutva,  and  their  smnmer 
residence  at  Kamiauwa;  erecting  a  spring  shrine  {Hcarurno- 
miya)  at  the  latter  place,  and  an  autunm  shrine  (Aki-no' 
miya)  at  the  former.  Thenceforward  elaborate  festivals 
marked  the  days  on  which  the  august  deities  are  supposed 
to  have  shifted  their  abode.  Time  was  when  the  symbolical 
transfer  was  made  in  a  gayly  decorated  boat  which,  laden 
with  the  paraphernalia  of  the  twin  shrines,  was  conducted 
across  the  lake  amid  pomp  and  gorgeous  display.  Later  the 
upper  shrine  was  transferred  bodfly  to  Shimosutoa.  One 
of  the  pair  now  stands  near  the  inn,  the  other  about }  M.  away, 
and  both  at  the  respective  ends  of  a  triangle  each  of  whose 
sides  is  8  cho  long.  A  clumsy,  bulky  car  weighing  several  tons, 
constructed  of  massive  timbers  in  imitation  of  the  sacred 
ship  of  former  days,  and  drawn  at  a  snail's  pace  by  hundreds 
of  men  clad  in  queer  costumes,  starts  over  the  road  between 
the  shrines  Feb.  19  and  Aug.  1  of  each  year,  and  several  davs 
of  jollity  are  usually  required  to  bring  it  safely  to  port.  The 
curious  mediseval  procession,  a  bizarre  survival  of  feudal 
times,  attracts  thousands  of  country  folks,  and  the  inns  are 
always  crowded.  The  governor  presides,  and  there  is  general 
rejoicing.  —  The  region  roundabout  is  volcanic  and  there  are 
several  not  mineral  springs  (sulphur,  alum,  etc.)  in  the  neigh- 
borhood, with  temperatures  ranging  from  113**  to  150**  F.  —  A 
few  min.  run  along  the  left  shore  of  the  lake  brings  the  train  to 
130  M.  Kamisuwa  (Inn:  Botan-ya,  Suwa  Hotel,  etc.,  ¥2.50 
and  upward)  on  the  8.E.  shore,  also  with  hot  springs  whose 
waters  are  piped  into  the  inns.  Sericulture  is  also  the  special 
occupation  of  most  of  the  people  here,  and  in  many  of  the 
houses  one  sees  the  womenkind  sitting  before  pans  of  warm 
water  in  which  cocoons  are  immersed,  winding  the  sericeous 
product  of  the  worms  on  to  primitive  reels. 

Lake  Suwa,  or  Suwa-ko  (3|  M.  east  and  west;  2  M.  wide;  about  30  ft. 
deep,  and  2598  ft.  above  sea-level),  sometimes  called  Oa-ko,  or  Goose  Lake, 
one  of  the  best  known  skating-resoria  in  Japan,  often  freeees,  in  Jan.-Feb., 
1  to  2  ft.  thick,  and  hither  many  T5kyO  (9  hrs.  by  rail)  and  Yokohama 
people  repair  to  enjoy  >tiie  short  season.  The  rly.  company  sells  round-trip 
tickete  from  T0ky5  at  reduced  rates  (usually  ¥5, 2d  cl.),  and  certain  of  the 
touriBt  agendes  {T.  Minami  A  Sons,  3,  Rogetsucho,  Shiba  T5ky&;  Thos, 
Cook  ^  Son,  Yokohama,  ete.)  plan  tnpa  ^dM<d^x^L  xoomt  and  meals  at  Um 


TenryU  River,  KAMISUWA  Sd.  BouU.    391 

inn)  for  an  inclusive  charge  of  about  ¥5  a  day.  The  best  skating  is  near 
8himo8wva  —  out  of  reach  of  the  biting  winds  which  tear  over  the  saddle  of 
the  pass  (at  the  S.  end)  and  ruflSe  tne  water  so  that  it  does  not  freeie 
smoothhr.  Here,  too,  hot  water  and  gases  often  spurt  up  &om  the  lake4)ed 
and  make  dangerous  air-holes.  When  warm  weather  prevents  the  ice  from 
fonning,  skaters  repair  to  Yatnanaka  Pond,  about  1^  M.  from  Shiwtoautpa. 
Suvoorho  lies  in  a  beautiful  inclosed  valley  between  bulky  mts.  and  receives 
its  waters  from  Wadc^dget  Tateahimat  and  other  heights.  Carp  (aiui 
shrimps)  abound  and  the  natives  catch  them  in  winter  through  holes  in  the 
ice.  In  simmier,  the  shallow  reaches  of  the  shore  are  flecked  with  pondweed 
aad  other  water-plants.  Formerly  its  waters  covered  the  fine  rice-plain 
which  stretches  away  westward,  but  owin^  to  the  deepening  of  its  natural 
outlet,  the  Tenryu  River^  it  is  eradually  diminishing. 

The  Tenryil  River,  which  rises  in  Lake  Suvm  and  flows  out  of  its  W.  rade 
later  to  pour  its  waters  into  the  TOtdmi  Nada  near  Hamamatsu  (on  the 
T6kaid5),  135  M.  distant  and  2598  ft.  below,  is  one  of  the  best-known  of  the 
Japanese  rivers  and  is  celebrated  for  its  fine  rapids.  Though  somewhat 
difficult  of  access,  the  stream  is  popular  with  persons  fond  of  rapid-shooting. 
The  usual  custom,  for  travelers  coming  to  Shimosutoa  from  Tdky5  or  Yoko- 
hama, is  to  proceed  on  foot  or  by  jinrild  (in  2  days,  with  2  men,  at  an  approz. 
cost  of  ¥10-1^  to  (47  M.)  Tokimata  (inn:  Ume-no^a,  ¥2.50),  where  the 
rapids  b»|in.  The  intervening  towns  are  22  M.  Ina  (Inn:  Tomiya),  and  28 
M.  lida  (Inn:  Shogodd).  At  Tokimata  the  innkeeper  will  (if  advised  before- 
huid)  arrange  for  a  boat. —  An  alternate  way,  the  best  for  travelers  ascending 
the  Nakasendd  from  Nagoya,  is  to  alight  at  Midono  Station  (Inn :  Inm-ya,  ¥2 ; 
see  p.  386)  and  do  the  25  M.  to  Tokimata  on  foot  (in  about  12  hrs.)  or  in  a 
Jinnld  (2^men  necessary;  ¥9,  in  about  11  hrs.)  —  which  the  station-master . 
will  have  ready  if  the  traveler  will  advise  him  in  advance.  The  road  is 
mountainouB  (guide  necessary  if  the  trip  is  made  alone)  and  there  are  some 
8t^£sh  climbs.  The  inclusive  cost  of  the  journey  from  Yokoham|i  and 
return,  for  3-4  pers.  (3  days*  steady  going)  is  approz.  ¥50  each.  The  cost 
of  a  boat  for  a  similar  party  for  the  90  M.  trip  (10-12  hrs.)  down  the  river  is 
¥50-60.  [A  fortnight  is  sometimes  required  to  haul  the  craft  back  upstream .] 
Four  boatmen  {sendd)  generally  accompany  each  craft  (June),  but  when  the 
river  is  high  (dangerous)  they  often  refuse  to  go.  The  boats  (usually  45  ft. 
l(Mig,  3i  wide,  and  2i  deep)  resemble  ezaggerated  canoes  made  of  flezible 
eiyptomeria  boards,  dovetailed  and  further  secured  with  wooden  pegs. 
Elasticity  rather  than  rigidity  is  aimed  at,  since  the  craft  often  scrapes  over 
the  river-bed  or  bumps  into  rocks.  Three  of  the  eendd  employ  oars  of  ever- 
green oak  9  ft.  long,  and  the  steersman  one  12-15  ft.  long.  The  traveler 
with  time  to  spare  may,  by  waiting  a  day  or  so  at  Tokimata  (good  trout- 
fishing  in  the  nver) ,  ^et  passage  down  the  rapids  in  an  ordinary  passenger 
boat  (infrequent  service)  for  ¥4-5.^  Where  a  special  boat  is  hirea,  a  clear 
understanding  should  be  retched  with  the  boatman  before  embarking,  and 
the  ezact  point  of  disembarkation  be  agreed  upon.  Otherwise  an  attempt 
may  be  made  to  put  one  ashore  at  a  point  where  the  ramds  end,  miles  from 
a  station,  where  rildshas  may  not  easily  be  obtained.  The  traveler  should 
insist  upon  being  landed  at  Kaahima  (12  M.  from  Hamamatau,  3  hrs.  by 
iinriki,  ¥2;  or  2  hrs.  by  basha  or  tramway,  50  ten),  or  at  Nakano  (4^  M. 
from  Hamamatsu,  ¥1  by  jinriki  in  1 J  hrs.,  or  by  tramway).  —  A  start  from 
Tokimata  should  be  made  about  7-8  a.m.  so  that  a  short  halt  may  be  made 
at  Nishimoto  (11  a.m.)  for  luncheon,  and  Kaahima  reached  about  6  p.m. 
Vaseline  or  some  similar  substance,  as  a  protection  for  the  face  against 
wind-  or  sun-bum,  will  be  found  useful;  likewise  goggles.  There  are  30  or 
more  rapids,  and  the  vertiginous  downward  course  is  through  magnificent 
scenery.  The  river  fiows  first  through  Shinano,  then  crosses  T6t6mi 
Province.  About  3  M.  below  Tokimata  it  enters  a  rocky  cafion,  then  for 
5-6  hrs.  it  races  seaward  over  a  long  series  of  rapids  between  scarped  ravines 
and  perpendicular  walls  that  rise  sometimes  a  thousand  or  more  feet  above 
it.  The  boatmen  are  skillful  and  accidents  to  foreigners  axe  rare;  60  or  60 
natives  are  drowned  in  the  river  each  year.  The  last  portion  of  the  trip  is 
uninteresting,  with  a  sluggish  current. 

From  Kamisuwa  the  rly.  continues  acroae  the  veSVe^  Vsl  «b 
8JE2.  direction  to  135  M.  CMno,  a  poor  town  whexe  coi^^cx- 


392    Route  25.  KOFU 

able  isinglass  is  made;  acfes  of  the  small  wood  frames  contun-> 
ing  the  product  cover  the  ground  roundabout.  The  rly.  now 
climbs  into  the  hills  and  affords  magnificent  views  (ri^t)  of 
Fuji^sanAhe  Kai  Komagatakef  HdozaUf  and  other  bulky  mts. 
142  M.  F'ujimi  (3224  ft.)  stands  on  the  elevated  watershed 
between  the  Evji-kawa  and  the  Tenryu-gawa.  From  the  Hara- 
no-chayGy  or  *  Tea-house  of  the  Plain/  which  stands  here,  one 
gets  entrancing  views  of  Fuji  and  of  the  great  range  of  bulky 
giants  that  rise  in  pointed  grandeur  against  the  horizon.  The 
region  is  like  a  vast  park,  with  glorious  views  and  inspiriting 
mt.  air.  Four  tunnels  are  threaded  on  the  downward  gUde  to 
148  M.  Kobuckizaway  beyond  which  the  line  skirts  the  lower 
(S.)  flank  of  Yatsttgatake;  passes  156  M.  HinokarUf  and  tra- 
verses the  Anayama  Tunnel  (1591  ft.  long)  at  an  elevation  of 
1881  ft.,  to  163  M.  Nirasakij  in  the  valley  of  the  Kamanashi- 
gawa  —  whose  wide  bed  glistens  with  the  white  granitic  parti- 
clds  washed  down  from  the  rocky  giants  above.  Superb  views 
of  the  N.  side  of  Fujirsan  (the  opposite  of  those  from  Gotemba^ 
on  the  Tokaido)  are  had  at  the  right. 

172  M.Kdfu  (1001  ft.),  the  present  capital  of  Yamanaski 
Prefecture  and  of  Kai  Province,  with  50,000  inhabs.,  was  for- 
merly called  Fuchu  (Chinese;  *  Chief  town'),  and  during  the 
Kamtikura  shogunate  was  the  residence  of  the  Ickijo  Daimyd. 
Inns:  Sadokd  Hotel;  BosenkakUf  etc.,  native;  from  ¥3  and 
upward.  The  clean  and  attractive  city  stands  on  a  broad  and 
productive  plain  dotted  with  mulberry  plantations  and  vine- 
yards —  the  grapes  (budo)  enjoying  a  national  reputation  for 
excellence.  The  beautiful  rock-crystals  (p.  cxxii)  for  which 
Kai  Province  is  noted  are  found  in  the  near-by  mts.,  and  are 
sold  in  the  local  shops  (best  specimens  in  the  T5ky6  or  Yoko- 
hama curio-establishments).  Kqfu  is  known  for  its  silken 
fabrics  and  for  its  excellent  dried  persimmons  (Kofu-kaki) 
which  come  into  the  market  in  Nov.  The  big  stone  monument 
at  the  rly.  station  commemorates  the  completion  of  the  Sasago 
Tunnel,  A  matsurif  of  considerable  local  importance,  is  held 
yearly  on  April  15,  when  the  townspeople  pray  that  the 
Fuefuki-gawa  may  not  overflow  its  banks  and  inundate  the 
plain.  The  foothills  of  the  surrounding  mts.  afford  many 
delightful  excursions;  Mt.  Mitakcy  at  the  N.,  once  had  ma^gnifi- 
cent  temples,  but  these  are  now  decayed  and  are  of  scant  inter- 
est. The  entire  country  roundabout  is  intimately  associated 
in  history  with  the  exploits  of  the  celebrated  Takeda  Shingen 
(1521-73)  who  made  Kqfu  his  chief  stronghold. 

Takeda  Hanmobu,  the  eldest  son  of  Nobutora,  who  afterwards  took  the 

name  of  Shingen,  stands  out  prominently  as  one  of  the  most  picturesque 

figures  of  his  time.  Dominating,  fierce,  and  of  piratical  instincts,  he  rebeUed 

against  his  father  (who  built  the  castle  at  Kdfu  in  1519  and  ruled  the  prov- 

woe  therefrom),  ^nd  after  deposing  and  imprisoning  him,  «»»n">*^  the 

government  of  Kai  Province  and  embarked  on  a  war  witii  neighboring 

aa%my98  which  endured  for  20  vi«-  "^cia^L  ^^  &\^^^^  ^^oii  «.  ddilfulBtrate- 


THE  FUJI-KAWA  RAPIDS    .  25.  Rte.    393 

girtt  he  erelong  beoame  the  master  of  that  extensive  territory  embraced 
within  the  provinces  of  Shinano,  Kai,  Htdot  a  part  of  Kdzuke,  and  Suruga. 
He  waned  against  the  powerful  leyam,  aided  the  warrior-priests  of  Hiei- 
aan  in  their  frantic  but  ineffectual  efforts  to  rid  themselves  of  the  implac- 
able Oda  Nobtmoffa,  and  was  finally  killed  in  Mikawa  Province  while 
besieging  the  castle  of  Noda.  Apprehensive  lest  his  death  interfere  \idth 
Uie  realization  of  his  plans,  he  oidered  that  it  be  concealed  and  that  his 
body  be  placed  ia  a  stone  coffin  and  simk  to  the  bottom  of  Lake  Suwa. 
The  former  command  was  obeyed,  but  instead  of  being  buried  in  the  lake 
he  was  interred  in  the  Eirinji  Temple,  near  Kofu,  where  his  tomb  may 
Blill  be  seen.  The  Japanese  regard  hun  as  a  splendid  type  of  the  impetuous 
feudatory  princes  of  the  Middle  Ages  —  those  turbulent  times  which  pre- 
ceded the  lasting  peace  established  by  the  great  Ieya9u  and  maintained  by 
his  long  line  of  Tokugawa  Bhdguna. 

Kdfu  is  sometimes  made  the  starting-point  for  the  descent 
of  the  Rapids  of  the  Fuji  River,  vi§L  Minobu  to  Iwabuchiy  on 
the  Tokaidd. 

The  Fu ji-kawa,  one  of  the  most  important  of  the  Japanese  rivers,  is  formed 
by  the  union  of  the  Fu^uki-gawa  toad  the  Kamanashi-gauta,  whose  waters 
flow  down  from  the  high  mts.  which  form  the  boimdary  of  Kai  Province. 
After  draining  the  plain  on  which  Kofu  stands,  and  stirtmg  the  N.,  then  the 
W.,  base  of  Fujirian,  it  disoharses  into  Suruga  Bay,  75  M.  distant  and  1000 
ft.  below.  Travelers  who  intendi  to  shoot  the  rapids  proceed  customarily  (by 
tramway,  in  2  hrs.;  fare,  80  «en).to  (12  M.)  Kajikazawa  (Inn:  Yorozuya, 
¥2),  a  town  Just  beyond  the  S.W.  limit  of  the  plain,  where  a  boat  with  4  men 
is  hired  (¥11-12)  for  the  (7-8  hrs.)  trip  to  (45  M.)  Iwabuehi.  Regular  mail- 
boats  (  YvJbin-bune)  which  carry  passengers  0^1.50)  leave  daily  and  may  be 
availed  of.  In  flood-time  all  boats  (Jcohune)  are  prohibited  from  starting  until 
the  waters  recede  to  a  certain  level.  Scores  of  boats  carry  merchandise  hence 
to  the  rl^.  and  the  sea,  and  on  the  downward  journey  one  is  scarcely  ever 
out  of  sight  of  lithe  craft  speeding  down  the  rapids  or  being  laboriously 
hauled  up  by  chantint^  boatmen.  At  certain  points  the  scenery  is  wild  and 
picturesque,  with  inspiring  views  of  Fuji  and  other  lofty  mts.  At  one  place 
a  locally  famous  Tmri-ba^i,  or  Suspension  Bridge,  is  passed  Qeft)-  It  is  165 
ft.  longj  constructed  of  stout  piano-wire,  and  is  suspended  30  ft.  above  a 
swift  tributary  of  the  river  nfhich  here  forms  an  islet  near  the  bank.  The 
cool-headed  peasants  navigate  it  speedily  and  with  unconcern,  but  foreigners 
find  the  passage  a  trying  one,  since  near  the  center  the  bridge  sways  in  a 
sickening  way. 

Leisurely  travelers  interested  in  Buddhist  temples  may  like  to  land  at 
Hakii  village  (midway  of  the  journey;  the  boatmen  will  stop  for  the  night 
for ¥3-4  extra)  and  visit  (2  M.;  }  hr.  walk)  the  Ktumji,  founded  by  Nichiren 
(p.  cci)  in  1273.  The  dreary  town  of  Minobu  (Inn:  Matauya,  ¥2)  stands  in 
a  valley  between  lofty  mts.  and  has  a  few  poor  shops  dedicated  to  the  sale  of 
rosaries  and  pseudo-relics  of  the  famous  bonze.  The  temple  is  the  head- 
quarters of  Ihe  Hokkeshu  and  has  repeatedly  been  scourged  by  fire.  That  of 
1875  'dratroyed  all  the  old  buildings.  Some  of  the  newer  ones  erected  in 
1880  were  burned  in  1911.  Those  that  remain  are  decorated  in  exuberant 
colors  and  differ  so  little  from  other  fanes  of  the  Empire  that  they  are  scarcely 
worth  a  special  visit.  A  picturesque  and  representative  type  of  the  temples 
of  this  sect  is  mentioned  at  p.  108.  Nichiren* a  ashes  are  preserved  in  a  crys- 
tal reUquary  (shown  for  a  small  fee),  and  on  the  chief  festival  in  May,  they 
are  revered  by  the  many  pilgrims  who  foregather  here. 

Beyond  Kofu  the  rly.  dips  into  a  small  valley  dotted  with 
vineyards,  then  ascends  past  Isawa  and  Kusakabe  Stations  to 
183  M.  Eman,  beyond  which  the  4th  tunnel  is  Ohikagey  4489 
ft.  long;  the  5th.  FvJcdzawaj  3627  ft.  long;  the  6th,  YokobuH, 
1403  ft.,  and  7th,  Tsukuse,  1135  ft.  —  Beyond  192  M.  Hajir 
kano  the  train  crosses  the  Nitsukawa  an(l  enters  t\i<&  iBuXKiowA 
8ampo  Turmel,  which  ia  nearly  3  M.  long,  215S  il.  aboN^XJaft 


394    Route  t5.  EOGANAI  The  Tamagawa. 

sea,  and  pierces  the  heart  of  Sasago  ML  (3500  ft.),  at  the  junc- 
tion of  Kaif  SagamL  and  Musashi  Provinces  —  which  latter 
we  soon  enter.  196  M.  Sasago,  The  train  now  descends  into 
the  valley  of  the  Sasago  River,  past  several  villages  where  silk- 
worms are  reared. 

202  M.  Otsuhi,  A  tramway  runs  hence  through  the  valley 
of  the  Katsura-^awa  to  (12  M.)  Yoskida  (about  2  hrs.;  48  sen), 
at  the  N.  foot  of  Fvjisan,  and  the  point  of  departure  for  Shoji; 
Rte.  3,  p.  40.  The  scenery  is  now  attractive.  The  train  crosses 
several  narrow  ravines,  at  the  left  of  one  of  which  is  seen  the 
locally  celebrated  Santrhashi,  or  Monkey  Bridge  (112  ft.  long, 
and  150  ft.  above  the  river),  a  spider-like  affair  which  only  an 
educated  monkey  would  be  willing  to  cross  without  inwwl 
trepidation.  A  series  of  long  tunnels  and  several  rivers  mark 
the  Une  hence  to  211  M.  Uenohara,  216  M.  Yose  is  the  usual 
starting-point  for  the  descent  of  the  rapids  of  the  Katsura- 
gawa.  The  6th  tunnel  beyond  is  the  Kobotoke,  8350  ft.  long, 
and  981  ft.  above  the  sea.  From  this  point  the  line  descendua 
ediaiply  to  222  M.  Asakawa,  a  favorite  {>lace  with  Tdky5 
holiday-makers,  who  go  hence  (J  hr.  by  linriki,  20  sen)  te 
Taka^zan,  a  lofty  hill  (1600  ft.)  where  tnere  is  a  Buddhist 
temple  (1  nr.  walk  from  the  foot)  in  a  fine  grove  of  crjrptome- 
rias  and  maple  trees.  During  the  annual  festival  in  April^  the 
place  is  usually  crowded.  The  old  highway,  visible  at  tunes 
from  the  train,  is  the  Koshu-kaidOj  which  links  Tokyo  with 
KoshU  ( Kai)  Province,  and  over  which,  in  feudal  times,  many 
a  picturesque  daimyo  procession  wound  its  way. 

225  M.  Hachioji  Jet.  (460  ft.),  28  M.  from  T6ky6,  is  an 
important  silk-manufacturing  center.  A  branch  rly.  runs 
hence  in  a  S.E.  direction  to  26  M.  Higashi' Kanagatoa, 
across  the  bay  from  Yokohama.  230  M.  Hino,  near  the  Tama- 
gawa,  is  a  popular  resort  of  Tdkyo  people;  cormorant-fishing 
(see  p.  396)  is  practiced  here  between  May  and  Sept.  A  cov- 
ered boat  (yane-imne)  can  be  hired  for  ¥2-3;  the  fishermen 
wade  out  into  the  stream,  and  the  small  trout  (ayu)  which  the 
cormorants  catch  may  be  cooked  in  a  near-by  inn.  Prom  231 
M.  Tachikawa  Jet,  a  branch  rly.  runs  to  (and  beyond)  11  M. 
Ome,  where  considerable  cotton  is  manufactured.  From  235 
M.  Kokubunji  Jet.  a  rly.  branches  N.  to  18  M.  Kawagoe,  a 
sometime  important  town  with  a  daimyo' s  castle  built  in  1457 
by  Ota  Mochisuke.  —  239  M.  Sakai,  is  also  a  favorite  resort  of 
T6kyo  merry-makers,  who  congregate  at  (1  M.)  Koganai, 
where  a  fine  avenue  of  cherry  trees  extends  for  nearly  3  M. 
along  the  Tamagawa-josui  (the  upper  stream  of  the  Tama^ 
gawa,  whence  T6ky5  gets  a  part  of  its  waternsupply)  and  pre- 
sents a  charming  sight  in  early  April.  In  1735  the  skogun, 
Yoshimune,  had  10,000  cherry  trees  brought  hither  mm 
Voahino,  in  Yamato,  and  from  the  flowery  banks  of  the 
Sakurorgawa  (Cherry  Kiver)  in  HW^aftYi^,  «cA  ^^vastX^^  here; 


FROM  NAGOYA  TO  KYOTO    £6.  RU.    805 

muUdtcides  of  people  come  to  see  them  in  season  and  to  stroll 
beneath  the  lovely  pink-and-white  canopv. 

241  M.  Kichijoji  is  near  a  lakelet  called  I-no-koahmiy  whence, 
in  (^den  times,  the  Yedo  Castle  drew  its  waternsupply;  leuasu 
is  said  to  have  visited  the  place  in  1600  and  to  have  founa  the 
water  so  excellent  for  malang  tea  that  he  ever  afterward  used 
if  for  that  purpose.  Picnickers  come  here  in  April  to  see  the 
chary  blooms,  and  in  May  the  azaleas.  At  Horinouchi,  1  M. 
to  the  S.  of  245  M.  Nakano,  there  is  an  old  Buddhist  temple 
(the  MyohSji,  of  the  Nichiren  sect)  with  some  good  sculp- 
tures and  an  effigy  of  Nichiren  said  to  have  been  carved  in 
1261.  247  M.  OhSbo  has  azalea  gardens  which  are  worth  seeing 
in  the  season.  248  M.  Skinjttku  is  also  a  station  on  the  TOkyd 
Belt  Lme.  252  M.  Tdkyd.   (See  p.  109.) 

26.  From  (Tokdiama)  Nagoya  to  Kydto  (Osaka  and  Kobe). 

T8ki|id5  BCain  line  of  the  Imperial  Government  lUilwajB. 

Yokohama-Kobe  Rte.  (24)  continued  from  p.  375.  From 
Nagoya  the  train  runs  N.W.  over  a  broad  rice-plain  in  the 
province  of  Owari.  The  rly.  leading  S.W.  runs  ultimately 
along  the  shore  of  Ise  Bay  to  Yamada-Ise  and  is  referred  to 
in  Rte.  35.  In  the  inmiediate  environs  of  the  city  are  many  fine 
lotus-ponds  which  produce  lovely  flowers  in  Aug.  and  edible 
roots  later.  The  splendid  old  castle  is  seen  to  fine  advantage 
at  the  right.  The  land  is  excellently  watered  and  very  prolific; 
certain  of  the  streams  are  choked  with  blue  water-lilies  (CaS' 
tcdia  sciUifolia),  and  in  late  autumn,  after  the  rice  is  harvested, 
the  submerged  fields  are  almost  covered  with  the  familiar 
starwort,  the  minute  SalviniOf  and  its  ally  the  OzdUa  pinnata. 
The  barley,  wheat,  and  rape  which  are  sown  in  rows  at  the  end 
of  Oct.,  often  cover  the  unsubmerged  portions  with  a  lovely 
ffreen  in  winter,  and  when  the  rape  begins  to  show  its  first 
blooms  (in  early  April)  the  region  takes  on  a  beautiful  golden- 
yellow  tinge.  —  The  Bisai  Rly.  LinCf  which  diverges  left  from 
227  M.  Ichinomiyaj  goes  to  (16  M.,  fare,  64  sen)  Yatomi  on  the 
Kansai  Rly.  —  The  many  pollarded  mulberry  trees  one  sees 
hereabout  advertise  the  fact  that  the  inhabitants  of  the  mt. 
valleys  of  the  province  support  themselves  by  rearing  silk- 
worms. Considerable  broom-corn  and  bamboo  are  also  raised, 
and  some  pottery  is  made  in  the  neighborhood.  Beyond  234  M. 
Kisogavxi  the  line  crosses  the  broad  Kiso  River  on  an  1874  ft. 
bridge  that  cost  302,000  yen.  The  boats  that  glance  up  and 
down  its  blue  surface  look  very  pretty  with  their  white, 
crinkly  sails  —  some  shaped  like  dragon-wings,  others  with 
black  ideographs  in  the  center  or  a  black  triangle  at  one  comer. 
mie  oddly  shaped  cr^t  moored  in  midstream  are  not  Kovoftr 
boats,  as  one  might  deduce,  but  are  primitive  nce-im!l[\&  qv^t- 
9taA  automaticsdly  by  power  obtained  from  t\i«   cMit«CiX> 


396    Route  26.  GIFU  Cormorant  Fishing, 

through  the  crude  paddle-wheels  at  the  side.  The  smooth  i^ke 
(exceUent  for  motor-cars)  visible  from  the  train  is  the  old  Nil' 
hasendo.  Many  a  glinting  bicycle  glides  along  it,  and  one  notes 
that  most  of  them  are  of  English  manufacture  —  the  American 
article  (once  imported  in  quantities)  having  worn  out  its 
welcome  by  repeated  cheapening  of  quality. 

235  M.  Gifu  (Inn:  Taunokunv-ya;  Tamai-yay  both  near  the 
station;  #3),  the  chief  city  of  Mino  Province  (capital  of  Gi/u- 
ken}f  with  42,000  inhabs.,  produces  quantities  of  paper  lanterns, 
fans,  and  parasols;  a  silk-crape  made  of  an  admixture  of  silk 
from  domestic  and  wild  silk-worms;  and  a  remarkably  tough 
paper  called  Mina-gami  (Mino  paper),  —  much  used  for  sliding- 
doors,  etc.  Foreigners  usually  associate  Gifu  with  the  great 
earthquake  of  1891,  and  with  Cormorant  Fishing. 

Cormorant  Fishing  (  Ukai)  has  been  practiced  in  China  from  time  imme- 
morial and  was  introduced  hence  to  Japan  perhaps  in  the  8th  cent.  Mature 
birds  {Phalacrocorax  carbo;  Jap.  U)  are  usually  about  3  ft.  long  and  5  ft.  in 
extent,  with  a  heavy  body,  long,  sinuous  neck,  a  stout,  hooked  bill  about  as 
long  as  the  head,  a  naked  gular  pouch,  stout,  strong  wings,  and  14  stiff  tail- 
feathers  denuded  to  the  bases.  The  plumage  is  a  daric  gray  ver^^ixig  into 
black.  The  birds  are  dextrous  divers  and  fishers  and  are  trained  and 
employed  in  catching  fish  in  various  parts  of  Japan.  Their  unclean  habits 
produce  evil  consequences  and  an  odor  particularly  offensive  to  sensitive 
noses.  After  the  shy  birds  are  caught  (in  winter,  on  the  coasts  of  the  neigh- 
boring Owari.Gulf,  with  decoys  and  bird-lime),  they  are  easily  trained  and 
they  soon  develop  surprising  intelligence.  They  lay  eggs  (which  are  often 
hatched  under  barnyanl  hens)  when  3  yrs.  old  and  work  well  until  they  are 
16  or  20.  A  single  master-boatman  (Ushd)  can  easily  oversee  a  gang  of  12 
birds  (the  customary  number  employed),  and  although  hundreds  may  be 
out  upon  the  water  each  knows  its  own  master.  Each  seems  also  to  know  its 
number  and  rank,  particularly  the  latter  —  for  which  it  will  wrangle 
shrewdly  and  which  it  maintains  with  a  comic  dignity.  Ichi,  or  No.  1,  the 
dean  of  the  corps,  is  the  last  to  be  put  into  the  water,  the  first  to  be  taken 
out,  the  first  to  be  fed  and  coddled,  and  the  petted  member  to  whom  the 
most  fish  is  customarily  given.  The  others  stand  beside  him  on  the  gunwale 
of  the  boat,  according  to  their  rank,  experience,  and  ability.  Whatsoever 
bird  gets  into  the  wrong  place  is  promptly  and  unceremoniously  pecked  out, 
and  roundly  scolded  by  the  birds  en  masse.  Each  wears  a  ring  around  its 
neck  to  prevent  its  swallowing  large  fish.  Round  the  body  is  a  cord  attached 
to  a  short  strip  of  stout  bamboo  by  which  it  is  lowered  into,  or  taken  from, 
the  water.  A  thin  fiber  rein,  about  12  ft.  long  and  not  easily  tangled,  com- 
pletes the  harness  Inr  which  the  awkward  but  efficient  bird  is  guided  and 
kept  in  hand.  The  nshing-boats  are  picturesque.  Each  carries  a  large  iron 
basket  filled  with  blazing  pitch-pine,  hung  out  on  an  iron  rod  from  the  bow, 
to  light  the  work  and  attract  the  fish  {ayut  a  species  of  trout)  —  which  gather 
about  it  as  moths  about  a  lamp.  Pleasure-boats  (yusen)  can  be  hired  from 
¥1.50  to  ¥7,  according  to  the  number  in  the  party  and  the  sise  of  the  boat. 
Trips  are  often  arranged  from,  and  by  the  management  of,  the  Nagoya 
Hotel.  Fishing  (to  fish  with  cormorants  is  C/  no  mane  wo  suru  karasvk^  takes 
place  on  the  Nagara  River  (a  stream  where  cormorants  fish  is  usually  called 
tl-gavja),  near  Oifu,  every  night  (except  on  moonlit  nights  or  when  the 
river  is  too  hi^)  between  6  and  12  o  clock,  from  mid-May  to  mid-C)ot. 
The  fishing  begins  about  3  M.  above  the  town  (which  marks  the  lower  end  of 
the  course)  and  the  boats  drift  down  to  it.  A  well-trained  bird  will  catch 
from  100  to  200  fish  in  an  hr. ;  when  its  pouch  contains  6  or  8  fish  it  is  dntwn 
aA>oard,  relieved  of  them,  and  sent  back  for  more. 

*When  the  fishing-ground  is   reached'  (writes    Major-Qeneral  Palmer, 

R,  E),*  the  master  lowers  his  12  birds  one  by  one  into  the  stream  and  gathers 

^Mir  reiDB  in  his  left  hand,  mampu\&\uuL  ^^e  latter  thereafter  with  his  right 

a*  oooaaion  lequirei.  The  kaho  &ai\of)  B\Ax\a  \n.  ^nVtiCL  V\&  nOXq^^  q1  noise  (to 


TkB  Pernmmon,  GIF17  fff.  Rauie.    397 

keep  the  birds  up  to  their  work),  and  forthwith  the  eormorants  eet  to  in  the 

heaJrtieBt  and  joUiest  way,  diving  and  ducking  with  wonderful  sw^neas  as 

ihe  astonished  fish  come  flocking  toward  the  blase  of  light.  The  master  is 

now  the  busiest  of  men.  He  must  handle  his  12  sti^nss  so  deftly  that,  let  the 

faibds  dash  hither  and  thither  as  they  will,  there  shauU  be  no  inipediment  or 

fouling.  He  must  have  his  eyes  everywhere  and  his  hands  f dilowing  his  eves. 

Specially  must  be  watch  for  Uie  moment  when  any  of  his  flock  is  gorged,  — 

a  fact  generally  made  known  by  the  bird  itself,  which  then  swims  about  in  a 

foolish,  helpless  way,  with  its  head  and  swollen  neck  erect.  Thereupon  the 

master,  shortening  in  on  that  bird,  lifts  it  aboard,  forces  its  bill  open  with 

his  left  hand,  which  still  holds  the  rest  of  the  linos,  squeeses  out  the  fish 

with  his  right,  and  starts  the  creature  ofiF  on  a  fresh  foray,  —  ail  tlds  with 

such  admirable  dexterity  and  quickness  that  the  eleven  birds  still  bustling 

about  have  scarce  time  to  get  things  into  a  tangle,  —  and  in  another  moment 

the  whole  team  is  again  perfectly  in  hand.    All  this  while  we  have  been 

drifting  down,  with  the  boats  about  us,  to  the  lower  end  of  the  course,  and 

are  again  abreast  of  (rt/u,  where  the  whole  squadron  is  beached.  As  each  \ 

connorant  ia-jiow  taken  out  of  the  water,  the  master  can  tell  by  its  wei^t 

whether  it  has  secured  enough  supper  wlule  engaged  in  the  hunt;  failmg 

which,  he  makes  the  deficiency  good  by  feeding  it  with  the  inferior  fish  of 

the'^catch.  At  /length  all  are  raided  in  their  due  order,  facing  outwards,  on 

the  gunwale  of  each  boat.   And  the  nght  of  that  array  of  great  ungaml^ 

searbirds  —  shaking  themselves,  flapping  their  wings,  gawing,  making  their 

t<^et8,  clearing  their  throats,  looking  about  them  with  a  stare  of  stupid 

oolemnity,  and  now  and  then  indulging  in  oldHnaidish  tififs  with  their  neigh" 

bors  —  is  quite  the  strangest  of  its  class  I  have  ever  seen,  except  perhaps  the 

^wonderful  i>enguinry  of  the  Falkland  Islands,  whereat  a  certain  french 

j>failosopher  is  said  to  have  even  wept.    Finally  the  cormorants  are  sent  oflf 

"4o  bed  in  their  individual  baskets.*  —  live  specimens  are  exhibited  in  the 

.ZKyOto  Zodlogical  Garden. 

Lovers  of  the  delicious  Japanese  persimmon^  will  find  the 

^dried  product  produced  near  Oifu  (and  shipped  hence  all  over 

•^apan)  of  exceptional  flavor.   Few,  indeed,  are  the  homes  in 

^Gifu  Prefecture  that  do  not  possess  one  or  more  whirring  little 

^silk-reels,  and  many  youngsters  of  the  town  itself  spend  their 

jpare  time  decorating  the  Daper  lanterns  which  are  shipped 

lence  to  all  parts  of  the  world.  The  traveler  who  by  chance  is 

Forced  to  remain  in  Gifu  for  any  length  of  time,  can  spend  some 

this  to  advantage  visiting  the  beautiful  (20  M.  to  the  S.W.) 


1  The  Japanese  Persimmon  ikaki)  ranges  in  sixe  from  a  plum  to  a  big 
^ipple,^  and  foreigners  often  become  as  inordinately  fond  of  it  as  they  do 
sometimes  df  the  evil-smelling,  equatorial  Durian.   Some  specimens  of  the 
iuxki  are  nearly  spherical,  others  are  oblong,  others  heart-shaped.  In  color 
4of  the  outer  skin  they  range  from  light  orange-yellow  to  deep  orange-red. 
Some  arc  eaten  in  a  soft,    doughy  condition  (like  the  well-frosted  persim- 
mon [Algonkian  putcfiamin]  of  the  S.  of  the  United  States),  while  others  are 
gatheredf  when  still  hard,  to  ripen  afterward.  Though  the  former  appeal  more 
strongly  to  the  American  tciste,  the  latter  are  more  highly  esteemed  by  the 
Japanese,  who  call  them  tarugaJei  because  they  are  converted  from  astringent 
into  sweet  fruit  by  beine  ripened  in  an  old  sake  tub.   When  over-ripe  and 
dried  in  the  sun,  pressed  flat,  and  then  put  away  in  boxes,  the  sweet  haJU 
assumes  the  status  of  a  dried  fig  and  is  used  like  it.   The  white  powder  which 
covers  the  dried  fruit  is  natural  sugar  that  has  exuded  from    it.  —  The 
Persimmon  Tree  (JDiospyroa  Kaki)  is  one  of  the  most  important,  beautiful, 
and  widely  distributed  trees  of  Japan.  It  is  a  stately  product,  something 
like  a  pear  tree,  with  handsome  bright  green  leaves  aknost  as  large  as  those 
of  the  magnolia.   These  come  in  May,  to  be  followed  by  the  blossoms  in 
Jane,  and  the  fruit  in  Sept.  and  Oct.   The  wood  is  somewhat  8imllBi.t  \a 
Indian  ebony,  and  is  used  largely  in  joiner-work,  for  veneei,  and  \ti  >Xv*b 
;  of  boxes,  cabinets,  eto. 


I 


398    Route  S0.       YORO  WATERFALL 

YdTSWaterfail  (IQOtt.  high)  near  the  village  of  these.  _____ 
The  Empress  GenshS  is  said  lo  have  visited  the  Boot  in  £s^ 
717  and  to  have  been  so  chsTmed  with  it  that  abe  cnanKed  Ui^ 
name  of  the  era  (717-34)  to  i'drd  —  a  Cliinese  word  §ignl- 
fyin^  'one  who  supports  the  aged,'  Cherry  bloasoma,  majuaa,  I 
hunting,  fishing,  and  fine  views  are  among  the  allurementB, 
BB  well  aa  a  lake  {Shimo-tke,  3  M.  to  the  S.E.)  which  ia  a 
breeding-ground  for  duelta  and  wild  geese.  These  aasemble 
here  in  such  numbers  that  the  natives  capture  them  in  oete- 
Tbe  shallow  reaches  of  the  water  are  sometimea  ccuapletclf 
covered  with  the  lovely  lavender  blosaoms  of  the  Pontofitria, 
From  Gi^-a  the  rly.  turns  due  W.  and  traverBes  a  reeon  u 
level  ae  a  Kansas  prairie:  th«  blue  mts.  which  out  the  w^line 
-  ■  the  left  divide  Mino  Province  from  lae  and  OmL  The  fine 

XrOf^wa  Bridge  (1515  ft.  long),  which  we  now  onw, 
!ed  the  one  crumpled  and  wreoked  by  the  great  earth- 
quake of  1891;  at  the  first  shock  the  three  central  spoiu  were 
tumbled  into  the  river,  the  muBsive  concrete  and  stone  su^ 
ports  snapping  like  pipe-stems  under  them.   243  M.  Ogaki,iB 


order  of  the  12th  AshikagashSgun,  Yoshkharu.  ThelongTUge 
of  bulky  mts.  which  wall  in  the  horizon  at  the  right  asm 
^oceed  westward  are  referred  to  as  the  Japanese  Alps. 
The  line  now  slopes  upward  to  (501  ft.)  262  M.  Sekigahan 
('Barrier  of  the  plain  ),  celebrated  as  the  scene  of  a  titanic 
_.  and  decisive  battle  (in  1600)  for  political  supremacy  be- 

1^^^  tween  the  forces  of  Ishida  Milsunari  and  Tokugawa  leyasv. 
^^H  The  view  narrows  aa  the  train  enters  a  valley  clothed  with 
^^H  bamboo,  mulberry,  evergreen,  and   deciduous  trees.    Manj 


peaaantry  follow  the  custom  of  stacking  straw  between  con- 


f 


venient  trees.  The  Iiaasu  Tunnel  (990  ft.)  ia  traversed  before 
Kaakiwabara  is  reached,  beyond  which  the  valley  broadens  and 
the  grade  descends  to  256  M.  Nagaoka^  a  Bhipping-potnt  for 
the  fine  gray  granite  quarried  in  the  neighborhood.  The  h^ 
toric  Hiei-zan  and  the  lofty  bills  that  almost  auirouud  Lake 
Biwa  are  now  seen  ahead. 

268  M.  Maibara  (Inn:  IzuUu-ya,  near  the  station,  ¥3  — 
email  refreshment  room  on  the  station  platform),  383  ft.  above 
the  sea,  in  Omi  Province,  is  the  startmg-point  of  the  Hokii- 
Toku  Line  to  Tcuruga,  Fiikm^  Karuuawa,  Naoetsu,  and  the 
intermediate  places  deacribed  m  Rte.  32.  Travelers  to  Japan 
from  Europe,  over  the  Trans-Siberian  Rly.  to  Vladivostok, 
join  the  Tskaidd  Rly,  here,  ^The  aedgy  reaches  of  the  upper 
shore  of  the  pictureaque  Lake  Biwa  aoon  come  into  view  at 
the  right,  and  in  summer  are  \dea.l\jM  b^  many  pond-lilies; 
the  mts.  which  wall  in  the  AiB\,an\.'fetnvion.\wf«.\CiisS\Tti'dB>ft 
wrmlba.  The  rly.  runs  tor  BOme  iiat&ace  tAoT»t,  "i!D»  d^!9t«,^^»s[L 


Bridge  of  Seia.  HIKONE  B6.  Route.    399 

tdiBS  inland,  traverses  the  Buihiyama  Tunnel^  and  emerges 
on  tibe  lake  at 

270  M.  Hikone  (Inn:  Rakurakvrteiy  ¥3).  The  quaint  town 
^p.  20,000)  is  of  interest  to  foreigners  chiefly  for  the  old 
castle  (pmnit  from  the  innkeeper;  small  fee  to  the  caretaker) 
which  stands  on  a  hill  (now  a  public  garden),  conmiands  an 
extensive  view,  and  was  the  one-time  home  of  the  patriotic 
It  Kamon-^no  Kami  (see  p.  22).  —  The  rly.  which  branches 
S.  from  Hikone  goes  to  27  M.  (fare  ¥1.26)  Kibukawa.  — 
fVom  295  M.  Kvsatsu  a  short  rly.  runs  through  Kibukawa 
to  Tsuge,  a  station  on  the  NarorNagoyorlse  Line.  —  Soon 
after  leaving  Kvsatsu  our  train  threads  two  tunnels,  crosses 
a  rich  alluvial  plain,  and  comes  within  sight  (left)  of  the  Long 
Bridge  of  Seta  {Seta  no  Kara-haaki). 

This  somewhat  commonplsoe,  iron-etudded,  wood  bridge  derives  its  name 
from  the  near-by  village  of  Seta.  The  longest  span  (oall^  O-fuuhi),  which 
reaches  from  the  shore  to  the  island  in  the  river,  is  576  ft. ;  the  other  (  Ko- 
ba^i)  is  215  ft.  The  original  structure  dated  from  very  early  times  and  was 
the  scene  of  many  stirring  episodes.  In  the  great  struggle  for  supremacy  in 
▲.D.  672,  the  Emperor  Temmu*8  general,  Murakuni  Oyori,  defeated  Chiaon, 
the  partisan  of  KSburit  here;  and  in  736  Ktuakabe  burned  the  bridge  in  order 
to  cut  off  the  retreat  of  Oahikattu,  who  was  defeated  and  slain.  Kiao  Yoahi' 
naga  was  beaten  here  in  a  hotly  contested  fight  in  1184,  and  here  the  indom- 
itable Oda  N(^mnapa  pitched  his  camp  after  ordering  the  destruction  of  the 
Hid-aan  Monaateriea  m  1571.  After  the  traitor  Akechi  Mitsuhide  cowardly 
assassinated  NobutMffa  in  1582,  he  fled  hither,  but  the  castellan  of  Seta 
burned  the  bridge,  seised  all  the  boats,  and  prevented  his  escape.  —  The 
small  ShirUd  shiine  on  the  river  bank  is  dedicated  to  Fv^iwara  HideacUOt  a 
lOth-oent.  military  hero. 

300  M.  Otew  is  an  extension  of  the  lake-shore  town  of  ^TaTwa- 
OtsUf  mentioned  in  Rte.  27.  Travelers  bound  for  the  Miyako 
Hotel  at  Kyoto  can  take  a  short  cut  here  and  reach  it  quicker 
and  cheaper  than  by  continuing  on  to  the  (10  M.  in  30  min,; 
fare,  45  sen)  Ky5to  Station,  whence  the  jinriki  fare  (in  35 
min.), is  40  sen.  Tram-cars  of  the  Kei-shin  electric  line  leave 
the  Otsu  Station  at  freauent  intervals  and  go  to  the  Ke-a-ge 
(2  min.  walk  from  the  notel)  in  about  30  min.;  fare,  25  sen, 
1st  cl.  The  rly.  is  roundabout;  the  tram-way  goes  directly 
over  the  hills  (good  views).  Checks  for  heavy  luggage  can 
be  delivered  to  the  hotel  manager,  who  will  attend  to  them. 

The  train  now  enters  the  Osakayama  Tunnel f  emerges  in 
the  historic  Yamashiro  Province,  and  descends  between  hills 
clothed  with  thick  growths  of  pine  and  bamboo,  and  heavy 
with  the  bones  of  long  dead  emperors  and  other  imperial  per- 
sonages. 306  M.  Yamashina  is  the  point  of  departure  for 
the  historic  old  temple  of  Daigo-ji  (Rte.  27).  The  slopes  round- 
about are  covered  with  the  knob-like  bushes  of  Camellia 
theifera.  Many  picturesque  palmettoes  (Cham^Brops  humilis) 
bear  witness  to  the  benignity  of  the  winter  climate.  The  old 
Tdkaidd  still  flanlos  the  rly.  and  hereabout  is  much  used  b^ 
0yelist8.  At  309  M.  Inariy  with  its  bie  shrine  sacred  \jo\i)afeftfi^ 
goddess,  the  traveler  is  again  in  touch  with  Ky5lob^  ^•^cXri.^ 


400    Route  27.  KYOTO  PracHda  Notmt. 

cars.  The  train  hurries  through  the  downward  slopii^  subnibs 
to  the  Kanuh-gaioa  Bridge  (39N5  ft.);  then  draws  in  to  the  (311 
M.)  KTdTO  Station  (good  restaurant  upstairs,  Ekwlish 
spoken),  with  its  motley  throng  of  priests  and  pilgrims  fit>m 
almost  ever^y  corner  of  the  Empire.  For  a  continuation  of  the 
journey  to  Osaka  and  Kobe,  see  Rte.  36. 

27.  Kyoto  and  its  Environs. 

Railway  Stations.  The  Kyoto  Station  (also  called  Shichijd  Station,  from 
its  proximity  to  that  street)  at  the  S.  edge  of  the  city  (see  the  accompamring 
plan,  C,  5)  IS  the  point  of  departure  for  trains  to  Nora  and  all  those  <u  the 
Tokaido.  Tram-cars  go  past  the  entrance;  the  eastbound  cars  pass  the  (15 
min.)  Kyoto  Hotel  (fare,  5  sen)  and  proceed  to  Hiromichi,  whence  the 
Miyako  Hotel  (25  mm.  from  the  station;  fare,  7  sen;  jinriki  in  36  min.,  40 
sen)  is  5  min.  walk  to  the  right.  The  latter  hotel  operates  the  restaurant 
upstairs  in  the  station  (breakfast,  75  sen;  tiffin,  ¥1.25;  dinner,  ¥1.25). 
Tnere  are  a  number  of  Japanese  hotels  and  restaurants  in  the  immediate 
neighborhood,  and  a  dearth  of  foreign  ones.  Runners  (no  omnibuses)  meet 
trams.  —  The  Nijd  Station  (so-called  from  its  proximity  to  Nijd  CasUe, 
PL  B,  3),  the  usual  starting-point  for  trains  on  the  Sonobe  Rly.t  is  at  the 
West-Central  edge  of  the  city  (jinriki-stand  and  tram-cars),  15  and  25  min. 
respectively  from  the  Kyoto  and  Miyako  HoteU.  —  Luggage-checks  had 
better  be  given  to  the  hotel  manager  or  the  runner.  Customary  charge  for 
a  trunk  to  the  hotel,  50  sen.  The  hotel  provides  carts,  on  which  3-4  trunks 
and  as  many  hand-bags  can  be  loaded,  for  60  sen,  and  ¥1.20.  The  RIy.  Co. 
delivers  baggage  within  the  hotel  radius  at  5  sen  a  packa^. 

Hotels  (comp.  p.  xxix).  *Miyako  Hotel  (Tel.  add.:  'Miyako,  Kyftto*), 
a  celebrated  and  popular  hostelry,  (English  spoken)  in  an  attractive  gardeii 
on  the  slope  of  Higashi-yama  in  the  N.  E.quarter  of  the  city  (PI.  E,  3),  high 
above  tne  city  and  out  of  reach  of  the  disastrous  fires  which  sometimes 
sweep  the  business  section,  has  the  advantage  of  pure  air,  wide  views, 
proximity  to  the  chief  temples,  a  charming  situation,  and  many  home  com- 
forts (steam  heat;  open  fireplaces,  glassed-in  reading-  and  dining-rooms, 
foreign  newspapers  and  magazines,  etc.).  Good  food.  Rates  from  ¥6  to ¥10 
a  day.  Am.  pi.,  according  to  location  of  room.  Baths  and  cotd  free.  Guests 
sightp«eeing  in  the  S.  quarter  of  the  city  can  tiffin  at  the  station  restaurant 
or  at  the  Daihuisu  Hotel,  without  extra  charge.  —  The  Miyako  Toutm 
Bureau,  operated  in  connection  with  the  hotel,  cashes  letters  of  credit;  stores 
and  forwards  luggage  and  curios;  conducts  a  local  express  service;  secures 
accommodations  on  rlys.  and  in  theaters,  and  buys  tickets  therefor;  chaxters 
yachts;  hires  servants,  and  provides  guides  and  interpreters  at  moderate 
rates.  The  traveler  pressed  for  time  will  find  a  local  guide  (¥4  a  day)  usef id. 
An  English-speaking  coolie  will  serve  for  the  trip  over  Hiei-zan,  but  for  that 
to  Kdya-san  the  traveler  should  try  to  secure  the  services  of  Mr.  R.  Fujino, 
of  the  Miyako  Hotel,  who  knows  Koya-san  well,  and  besides  being  an  intel- 
ligent and  helpful  companion,  is  also  a  sturdy  and  tireless  walker.  — 
Laundry  in  the  hotel  at  5  sen  a  piece.  —  Kyoto  Hotel,  Kawara-machi  (PI. 
D,  3) ;  ¥6  and  upward.  English  spoken.  —  Daibutsu  Hotel,  near  the 
Shichijd  Station  (PI.  D,  5),  English  spoken.  Popular  with  commercial  men. 
Rooms  only,  ¥1.50  a  day;  with  board,  from  ¥3.50  and  upward. 

Banks  (comp.  p.  xxiii) .  Nippon  Qinko,  Sanjo  Higashi-no-toin.  —  MiUui 
Oinkd,  Shijd-d5ri. 

Churches.   Numerous  foreign  missions  are  represented.    For  information 

relating  to  them,  and  for  time  of  services,  etc.,  in  St.  Mary's,  the  Methodist, 

Baptist,  Evangelical  Protestant,  Congregational,  Presbyterian.  United  Bre- 

thren,  and  other  churches,  consult  the  hotel  manager,  or  the  bulletins  posted 

ja  the  hotel  lobby.  Religious  Books  at  the  Christian  Bookstore,  Sanjo  Goko- 

macbi. 

GeBeral  lof ormation.    Special  pennits  (.obV.a\iv«.\Ae  \i\«oM\^  omT  %\l&i&i*Mt 
or  Ainbas8stdoT  at  TSkyo  —  sevctal  days  \ift\i8\\>r  xec^mx^A^  «tc^<j;«wi 

fo  Becure  admittance  to  the  Mikado'a  ^^^'.^\^f^''*^-3^^J^^^ 
■K^ateura  no  RikyQ.  and  the  Shugaku-m.  On  amv^Ci  ^\.  Y.>jo\i(>  \X»  vm&K 


ffewral  Information.  KYOTO  97.  BauU.    401 

should  be  handed  to  the  hotel  manacter,  who  in  tum  deliven  it  to  the  Palace 
Intendant  (at  the  TonomtHryd  —  or  Palace  Office  —  a  brandi  of  the 
Imperial  Household  Department,  near  the  Palace)  for  his  inspection.  On 
receipt  of  confirmative  advices  from  the  officials  at  TdkyO  the  Intendant 
(provided  the  Imperial  Family  is  not  occupying  any  of  Uie  buildmgs)  will 
issue  a  local  pass  to  accompany  the  original.  In  certain  cases,  this  can  be 
amplified  or  extended,  but  gentlemen  accompanied  by  ladies  should  be 
careful  to  see  that  the  name  of  each  is  specified  in  the  orij^nal  permit,  else 
they  may  be  refused  admittance.  The  rules  are  strict  and  passes  are  sup- 
posed to  admit  only  the  person  (accompanied  by  a  guide  or  interpreter) 
whose  name  appears  thereon.  The  privilege  is  accorded  only  to  foreign 
visitors  and  to  Japanese  of  high  rank;  proletarians  rarely  or  never  see  the 
inside  of  the  Palace  or  Nijd  Castle.  The  ezdusiveness  of  the  Japanese  Sov- 
ereign, the  sanctity  with  which  the  natives  regard  his  exalted  person  and  all 
his  belongings,  and  the  inflexible  punctiliousness  of  the  Court  etiquette 
are  but  imperfectly  understood  by  many  foreigners.  To  whatever  height 
his  sense  of  humor  may  have  been  developed,  the  Japanese  is  intolerant  of 
levity  when  this  is  associated  with  the  Imperial  Family  —  a  fact  which 
tactful  travelers  will  remember.  The  Palace  and  Nijd  are  open  between 
April  and  Sept.  from  8  a.m.  to  4  p.m.;  and  between  C>ot.  and  March  from 
9  to  3.  Admission  cards  must  be  shown  to  the  guard  at  the  outer  gate,  and 
after  writing  their  names  in  the  Imperial  Register,  travelers  must  follow  the 
directions  of  the  guides  allotted  to  them.  Fees  are  not  accepted  and  should 
not  be  proffered.  Cameras  are  excluded,  and  photographing  or  the  making 
of  sketches  or  drawings  is  strictly  forbidden.  Hats,  outer  wraps,  umbrellas, 
and  canes  must  be  left  at  the  inner  threshold,  where  socks  or  slippers  for 
one's  shoes  or  stockinged  feet  are  usually  provided.  Relic-mongers  with  '  im- 
pulses '  should  stay  outside,  as  detection  is  ^most  certain  —  with  unhappy 
consequences. 

The  wide  overhang  of  certain  of  the  temple-roofs  has  a  tendency  to 
darken  the  interiors,  which  can  be  seen  alwasrs  to  the  best  advantage  on  a 
sunny  day  between  10  and  3.  It  is  needful  to  remember  that  temples,  pal- 
aces, etc.,  close  at  4  p.m.,  and  that  preparations  for  this  event  begin  about 
3.30.  Travelers  who  linger  beyond  closing  time  vex  the  bouses  in  charge. 
If  certain  of  the  temples  can  be  visited  in  Nov.  when  the  maples  have  just 
donned  their  autumnal  dress,  there  will  be  added  to  them  a  chiEtrm  which  no 
other  season  duplicates.  The  admittance  fee  charged  in  certain  temples  is 
usually  smaller  than  the  average  tip  would  be,  and  the  visitor  is  relieved  of 
the  necessity  of  thinking  of  the  latter.  Though  not  obligatory,  tips  are 
customary  in  places  where  no  fees  are  charged.  The  temples  are  supported 
by  pilgrims  and  parishioners,  and  visitors  from  abroad  are  usually  classed 
with  the  former.  The  locations  of  kakemonoa  are  subject  to  constant  change, 
and  at  certain  times  the  best  are  withdrawn  for  temporary  exhibition  in  the 
museums  of  the  Empire.  The  amateur  can  usually  complete  his  inspection 
of  native  ecclesiastical  art  by  first  seeing  the  palaces  and  temples,  then  the 
museums.  Pictures  of  great  value  are  often  protected  from  climatic  changes 
by  being  stored  in  moisture-proof  godowns.  To  see  them,  one  has  to  give 
notice  several  days  in  advance  and  often  pay  a  substantial  fee  (¥5  or 
more),  since  two.  or  three  trustees  must  be  present  at  the  withdrawal,  and 
their  time  or  traveling  expenses  are  considered.  Delays  must  be  expected. 
Nature  collaborates  with  art  in  Kyoto  on  a  scale  almost  as  grandiose  as 
in  Nikko.  Certain  of  the  temples  stand  on  terraces  amid  groves  of  noble 
trees  or  gardens  that  arc  a  delight  to  the  senses.  Nowhere  more  than  in 
Kyoto  is  care  devoted  to  the  artistic  environment  of  the  most  celebrated 
Buddhist  fanes;  the  landscape  gardens,  the  stone  bridges,  la  vers,  lanterns, 
and  what-not  are  usually  placed  with  scrupulous  attention  to  their  proper 
relation  to  the  main  structure,  and  because  of  this  they  please  the  artistic 
souls  of  the  natives  more  than  do  those  of  other  places.  Wide  avenues 
flanked  by  stone  and  bronse  lanterns,  and  lofty  torii  overshadowed  by  «asi\> 
trees,  form  triumphal  approaches  to  many  temples,  and  the  sviixoxmnAx^n 
alone  often  repay  the  traveler  for  a  visit  to  them.  While  t\ie  NiiKi  ttU.^^A)A 
I/iffaaAt  Ifonffwanj'i are  in  the  populous  heart  of  the  city,  oeTteoxi  oi  ^*  ^^ 
but  equally  aatiafying,  monaaterial  retreats  are  in  the  Bubuxba,  BlA  ^^. 
-^if^*  ^-J'^^  ^  *^*^  fhouid  see  one  or  more  of  them.  TYx«  Mij5aK\ti-l^ 
and  the  GmJta^.jt  are  perhaps  the  most  repreaentaUve.  .  It  \a  a  inMrt»Si»  ^ 


402    RaiOe  S7.  KYOTO  Shapt. 

glan  to  see  KyOto  in  one  or  two  da^^s.  It  is  one  of  the  most  intmesting  spots 
I  the  Empire,  and  however  long  one  remains  there,  one  usually  wimes  to 
extend  the  time.  For  the  conTenienoe  of  the  hurried  traveler  the  ohief 
*  sights '  have  been  grouped  so  that  as  much  as  possible  can  be  crowded  into 
a  day.  The  excursion  over  Hiei-zan  to  Lake  Biwa;  and  the  fascinating  trip 
vi&  Nara  to  Kdya-aan  should  not  be  omitted. 

Means  of  Transportation.  Kydto  is  a  city  of  distances,  which  can't  be 
evaded.  Economictuly  disposed  travelers  can  save  time  and  money  by  using 
the  tram-cars  in  preference  to  the  slow  and  expensive 

Jinrikis  (p.  Ixxxviii)  which  i^  for  hire,  and  which  are  to  be  found  at 
stands  in  various  parts  of  the  city.  Fares  are  approximated  the  same  as  in 
Tdkyot  with  a  steady  upward  tendency.  The  rubber-tired  vehicles  are  a 
bit  more  expensive  than  the  others;  the  rates  for  the  former,  as  posted  in 
the  Miyako  Hotd,  are:  Per  hr.,  50  sen  (at  night,  60) ;  2  hrs.,  70;  3  hrs.  (or  \ 
day);  90;  all  day  in  the  city,  ¥1.50;  to  the  Kydto  or  Nijo  SUUion,  40  sen. 
Special  rates  apply  to  country  trips,  where  2  men  are  usually  necessary. 
Where  there  are  3  or  4  in  a  party,  it  is  cheaper  and  more  satisfactory  to 
employ  one  of  the  hotel  carriages:  Landau  per  day  in  the  city,  ¥10;  ^  day, 
¥7.  Victoria,  ¥8  and  ¥6  respectively. 

The  Electric  Tram-Cars  (denaha)  which  traverse  the  metropolis  in  all 
directions,  and  which  were  the  first  of  their  kind  installed  in  Japan,  are  dean, 
comfortable,  speedy,  and  cheap.  Foreigners  who  know  their  way  s^bout  the 
city  generally  use  them.  Fares  vary  according  to  distance,  and  range  from 
2  sen  upwMxl.  There  is  an  interurban  to  Otsu,  and  the  Keihan-denki^etsudO 
(runs  in  1}  hrs.)  to  Osaka  (41  Mn),  thence  (in  1  hr.  more,  21  sen)  to  Kobe. 

Shofis  (comp.  p.  cxii).  The  Kydto  shops  are  known  for  their  multiplicity, 
attractiveness,  and  for  the  diversity  of  their  wares.  In  the  business  section, 
which  may  truthfully  be  said  to  embrace  practically  the  entire  city,  most 
of  the  houses  have  some  sort  of  a  shop  on  the  street  floor.  The  fact  ibat 
many  of  these  resemble  dwellinei  more  than  mercantile  establishments, 
and  adhere  to  the  Buddhist  principle  of  a  modest  exterior  with  a  rich  and 
glowing  interior,  does  not  detract  from  their  charm.  Certain  representative 
firms  have  established  a  precedent  (rapidly  being  followed)  by  erecting 
structures  that  vie  in  size  and  commodiousness  with  the  best  Tdkyd  and 
Yokohama  shops,  and  by  adopting  European  and  Western  ways  that  save 
travelers  time  and  inconvenience.  They  di£fer  somewhat  from  the  sea- 
port shops,  in  that  the  stocks  displayed  are  chiefly  of  local  production  — 
the  near-by  port  of  Kobe  being  the  mart  for  imported  goods.  As  headquar- 
ters whence  many  of  the  shopkeepers  throughout  the  Empire  draw  their 
inspiration,  and  their  supplies  of  silks,  embroideries,  brocades,  velvets, 
porcelains,  bronzes,  damascene  wares,  curios,  and  what-not,  KyOto  is 
peculiarly  satisfying  to  the  lover  of  beautiful  things.  A  great  variety  of 
Chinese  curios  and  furniture  can  usually  be  found  here.  The  best  ivories, 
silver  objects,  fine  cl(Hsonnd,  and  carved  native  furniture,  are  generally 
manufactured  in  the  workshops  of  Yokohama  and  Tokyo.  While  the  special- 
ties for  which  Ky6to  is  famed  are  to  be  found  in  almost  every  byway  of  the 
metropolis,  travelers  will  find  it  more  satisfactory  and  convenient  to  make 
purchases  of  reputable  dealers,  in  whose  shops  prices  are  fixed,  English  is 
spoken,  the  quality  of  the  goods  is  guaranteed,  and  comprehensive  stocks 
are  carried.  In  such  places,  orders  can  be  left  with  the  assurance  that  they 
will  receive  proper  attention,  or  recompense  be  made.  The  following  brief 
Ust  has  been  compiled  with  special  reference  to  the  character  of  the  dealer 
and  the  quality  of  his  goods.  The  tourist  with  the  time  to  spare  will  be 
amply  repaid  for  an  inspection  of  the  processes  of  manufacture  of  certain  of 
Kyoto's  most  celebrated  products.  Some  of  the  workshops  are  ranked 
among  the  city's  most  interesting  *  sights.'  At  the  silk-weaving  mills  of 
lida  a  Co.t  and  S.  Nishimura,  the  finest  silk  brocades  produced  in  the  East 
are  woven  (highly  interesting  process).  The  intricate  and  beautiful  gold 
damascene-work,  in  the  making,  can  be  seen  at  the  workshop  of  S.  Komai; 
Inlaid  gold  bronze,  etc.,  at  Kuroda's;  attractive  Kinkozan  Satsutna  at  the 
Kinkoaan  Pottery,  gold-lacquer  at  HayosKi'*,  ft\c.  ¥lxL«,\iah  is  spoken; 
riaitora  are  welcome;  and  no  one  is  expected  to  i%a  ox  o>o\\5ted\o^>\'s . 

shintaifa  '),  Karasumaru  Takatsuii  ^?\.  C,  ^V  —  S.  N^a>vvmuTa,%«D\^^^ia»r 
Buxnsaru  (PI  C.  3). 


FetiwaU.  KYOTO  g7.  Route,    403 

CuRXOfl  AND  Am  OBJlon:  —  Yamanaka,  opposite  the  Awsta  Palace 
(PI.  E.  3).  —  a.  Haif/tM,  3Q,  Fammonsen  (PI.  D-E.  4)  —  both  with  fuperb 
coUections  of  andent  and  modem  work. 

Bronsbb  (plain:  and  mixed  with  gold  and  tilver) :  —  K.  I.  KurodOt  19, 
Teramaohi,  Shii6  Minami  (PL  D,  4). 

DAMA8CKNS-WAWB:  — 18.  iComoft,  Shinmonien  (PI.  E,  4).  Gold-  and 
Silversmiths. 

Gold-Lacqusb:  —  8.  Hayotfti,  39,  Furumonsen  (PI.  D-E,  4).  Fine-Art 
Curios. 

PoBCBLAiN  AND  PoTTBRT:  — 8.  Kinkotan  (Satsuma-  or  Awata-ware) ,  near 
the  Awata  Palace  (Pi.  £,  3).  —  Ito  T&aan  (porcelain,  Shirakawa-bashi.  — 
Seifu  Yohei  (Kiyomiiu-sraki),  GojO-saka.  —  RcUnUoichi  (Raku-yaki),  NijA 
Abura-no-kdji.  There  are  a  host  of  small  shops  in  the  dty  where  one  may 
pick  up  attractive  bits  of  porcelain,  etc. 

CloibonnII: — Namikawa,  SanjO  Kitaura,  Shirakawa-bashi.  —  Dollb 
AND  Fans:  —  Namikauxtt  OtabiohO.  —  Bamboo  Abticlbb:  — lahii  Shoteut 
Gion-machi.  —  Lacqueb-wabb  in  general.  Nishitnura,  Teramachi  Aya-no- 
k6ji.  —  Imported  articles  of  various  kinds  are  usually  displayed  in  the  shops 
on  Shijd  Gtabichd.  A  host  of  unlisted  things  are  inoluded  in  the  i>ermanent 
displays  at  the  Commercial  Museum. 

Festivals  {mcUauri).  Kydto  is  a  city  of  festivals,  most  of  which  are  highly 
picturesque  and  attractive.  Some  are  associated  with  seasonal  flower  dis- 
plays of  rare  beauty,  while  others  are  marked  by  gorgeous  pageantry  and 
mediffival  features  which  the  traveler  should  try  not  to  miss.  The  ceremon- 
ials of  the  Miyako  Odori,  the  Aoi  fit$,  and  the  Qion  MeUmri,  are  peculiar 
to  the  city,  where  the  people  make  i^reat  preparations  months  in  advance 
and  enter  into  the  spirit  of  the  occasions  with  unbridled  enthunasm.  The 
Bon  Festival  is  the  local  egression  of  a  national  commemorative  celebra- 
tion, but  it  embodies  creations  not  seen  elsewhere.  —  When  assisting  at 
these  unique  occasions  the  liberal-minded  tourist  will  make  due  allowances 
for  the  dmerenoes  of  custom,  inheritance,  temperament,  and  locality;  and 
will  be  mindful  that  he  is  in  quaint  Japan,  not  Europe  or  the  West.  He  will 
slso  perchance  wuh  to  remember  tihat  the  features  which  strike  him  as  gro> 
tesque  and  mayhap  incompatible  with  the  mental  and  material  progress  of  a 
remarkable  race,  are  merely  20tili  century  expressions  of  ancient  and  historio 
spectacles  dating  from  a  time  when  the  peoiMe  were  not  as  advanced  as  they 
are  now.  During  the  festive  davs  a  variety  of  interesting  entertainments  are 
organised  (detafls  in  the  hotels),  and  the  city  streets  are  profusely  and 
quaintly  decorated.  Thousands  of  happy  pilgrims  (usually  clean)  come  into 
the  capital  on  these  occasions  and  add  materially  to  the  animation  and 
pictui%squeness  of  its  thoroughfares.  The  management  of  the  Miyako  Hoid 
erects  temporary  stands  along  the  route  of  the  processions  for  the  conveni- 
ence of  foreign  guests.  The  most  prominent  festivals  are  listed  below;  others 
are  celebrated  at  various  times  and  places. 

Januabt:  New  Year  Festivities  from  the  Ist  to  the  7th.  Comp.  TdkyO. 

Febbuabt:  Snow-scenes  on  Hif^hi-wi'ma,  and  Aratki-yama.  About  the 
middle  of  the  month,  and  thence  into  we  finit  week  in 

Mabch,  the  plum  blossoms  are  at  their  best.  Conspicuous  among  the 
many  places  where  they  can  be  seen  to  advantage  are:  The  Mikado' b  Palace 
Garden  (PI.  D,  2) ;  Kitano  Tenjin  (Pi.  B.  1) ;  Kiyomizurdera  (PI.  E,  5) ;  Momo' 
yama  (Environs  PI.  C,  3),  a,ud  Nagaoka  (E.  PI.  A~B,  3).  Late  in  March  the 
peach  blossoms  begin  to  blow.  The  Festival  of  Dolls  for  ^rls  (  Hina-atobi) 
IS  celebrated  in  this  month,  and  a  msrriad  fine  d<^  for  which  Kydto  is  cele- 
brated are  displayed  in  the  shop-windows. 

Apbil  is  cherry-blossom  month,  and  the  most  beautiful  season  of  the 
year.  Magnificent  displays  at  Maruyama  Park  (Pi.  E,  4);  Omuro  Qo»ho 
(PI.  A,  2);  Araahi-^ama  (E.  PI.  A,  2);  Chionr^n  (PI.  E,  4);  Kiyomizu-dera, 
and  at  various  other  points  (for  about  8  weeks)  in  the  city  and  suburbs. 
The  Miyako  Odori  ('  Capital  Dance')  in  whioh  richly  clad  maidena  v^^tXa^v- 
TOtte,  is  performed  (adsoission,  ¥1)  every  night  dming  t\ie  nionX\i«  «X.  \Xv« 
Kaburenjd  Theater  (10  min.  from   the  AftyoJbo   Hald)^  neax  Gion-machi. 
Bpedal  aerviceB  in  the  Chionnin  and  other  temples  oommemoTeAiuML  ^^ 
Spring  Equinox.    On  the  21at  falls  the  cnriouB  Tayilk  D«cK<i  (.'  loMttvev  ^^ 

/2^aS™  ^'f^'-^ '  *  ^«'««roiM;  procsMion  of  hailoU  in  ooe\.MDae»  \>opv 
uw  la  oygone  oentunes. 


Ktx  ii  odebnMd  for  it<  ntpeib  Auteu.  Peoniea.  WiaiuU.    Svria 


^^gnfoo,  u>d,&  hon  of  othei  flDwen  induoBd  by  tlie  April 

pj^to--.  .--.  -,  -, . ,  ,  _,.    , 

Tanao-uttu,  or  Fcativnl  ol  Anuot  uid  Flags  Ifor  boya.  May  B), 


I  psrUi  of  tbe  city:  ooUeotive^  aC  the  Auqtt 
ita  tiid-     "  '"'    ■    "'     "     ■- -  — - 


M  OrmliTt  (PI.  E.  3)  and  the  lii/dUi  fJuriry  (Fl,  A,  3).    Duriu  tl 

- — 11..  „.  i7.^.,„.i.i  i ...iTi —  ■'—'•— a.  May  B),  Uisatro 

rnied  oightly  (M  the 

(PL  D.  6}  (O  movablB  dalea.  The  Am  f«iiRi^  on  tti?  15th,  utiraoU  nuny 
icveignara  by  itt  eoisbchu  proocenbD  (front  thi^  Mikiirlii'd  Palace  to  thv 
aWiM  Oamt,  tbenoe  to  Itaa.  SaM<  Oi>u  ^AHna;  E.  FL  C.  ».  in  iridoh 


.  .„  _„ »  the  godi  ioi 

or  thneaMmia-leiivea  aieat,  m  a  aymb^  of  tbe  n 

Juira  bdnn  the  fireSiea  to  Vji  (E.  PI.  C,  i) ;  the  Z.ii;b>  Biuu  Canal  (PI.  E. 
Xt,»adATaM-vama(E.Pi.A,S).  Fine  inaes  at  Uie  finan  Jin«fl  (PI.  E,  3), 
•lid  other  plscea.  The  popidai  triok'ridiaa  nulwi  ot  the  Imri  fiAriiu 
oeoun  on  the  Sth. 

Jolt.  The  Oiim  Fixiiaal  i»  the  nuMt  popular  of  Uu  ■uminct  Bttnc- 
tinru.   The  Intiu  flnwera  of  July  aod 

A  tbe  bat  advantaae  at  tbe  Imptrial  PaUut  Oordm, 


psM  between  them  only  with  dlfflonlty.  < 


■mporary 
iHunc  ga 


bamboo bridMa.  Deukturwlmu«<i,iiantamiiiuo<ra<iJia,ft 
.-Ddlfls.  throa^vfflcfld  itisy-teUeEa,  aod  wbHt-twt,  eonbibuH  to 
jink*  performed  here  until  a  iMe  hour.  Thia  popular  diverrion  ii 

_  1.1..... ..  __.^__ii na'a  self  at  Si<jV  The  thouMulaof 

apot  add  to  its  pictureaque  Mpeet. 

Dsnoe  of  tbe  FeatJval  of  tbe  Deed,'  la  held  about  tlia 

. ^-   , ,  when  eeremoniouB  daDc«a  are  performed  in  nutny 

placee.  Toward  tbe  tenniuation  of  the  f«le  many  villaeeia  climb  to  the  killa 
bade  of  the  city.  BJid  on  huoe  Boara,  which  the  traveler  will  note,  build  oreaA 
bonGtet  of  wood  wluob  uey  have  carried  up  aud  on  which  tiwy  have 

with  ihe  diasppearaacs  of  the  oamea  in  the  holy  fire,  Cferuiin  ol  these 
Ideographio  aoara  (laid  to  have  ori^iiLeted  wiUi  K^s-Dauhi  io  an  effort  to 

know  ^em  h  Dai  Mtmji,  end  aa  Hidan  Dai-nvmii  (the  Chiaeae  ebarAetere 
foi  'Qieat  Word  ') ,  Of  the  former  25  or  more,  there  now  remain  but  4  or  6; 
OM  ia  viatble  beyond  the  Giakaka-ji  <E.  PI.  C,  2).  another  over  tbe  Xi'niahi- 
/i  (fi.  PL  B.  3.) 

SBrTuiBBH.    Feetivala  of  the  Full  Moon,  in  varioua  templca.   Curioul 
midnicht  featival  at  Hachiman-qH  (E,  PI.  B,  4)  oa  the  ISth. 

OcToaaa.  ChryaaDthemum  dlapiayaatthe  KySio  Nursery  (PI.  A.3)  and 
Mber  places  in  tbe  city.  Muabroom-hunling  (A^n«tt>-|ian')  on  the  hilla  round 
•bout.  Didmya  ProoeaBian  (Jidovwilrilau)  oo  the  22d 
annual  testival  (ot  the  HtioMinai').  in  which  B5  section 
Ttpresentad,  and  hundreds  of  fantasticall}'  acooutcre<i 


_„^, ^-—f    , red  people   (archere, 

vunan,  oourt-envoya.  dt»nit»ri«s,  mountajneera.  etc.)  take  part. 

KovEMBSR,  withiM  wonderful  dieptay  of  nrimaoninKinaplEa,  is  one  of  the 

JneotJi*  most  popular  with  forrtviKi.  The  iWb.  Tun  euecial  eicuraiou  to 

untr-iirplaoM  (Takao,  E,  H.  B,  Vl  ArMKi-mma,>,V\.  t.,f.  «^K.^..  Qood 

''•n>iaya  on   Biffaihi-yama.  from  ia  iinkaU-iv  eX  ««  ^  •  «j  K«»i™j. 


T^opoffrctpky.  .KYOTO  S7.  BatOe.    405 

DscBMBKB  k  a  biMsr  monkb  with  the  ahopkeepen,  and  the  'December 
sales '  (toahi-mthichi)  bring  out  tlgrongs  of  people. 

Topography  of  Kydto.  Kyoto,  ^  the  ancient  capital  of.  and 
at  present  the  4th  largest  city  in,  Japan,  with  443,000  inhabs. 
Gess.  than  100  foreigners)  and  82,000  houses,  stands  tfear  the 
head  of  the  wide  and  well-watered  Yamashiro  Plain,  in  lat. 
35°  1'  7"  N.,  and  lone.  135**  46' 7"  E.  of  Greenwich  (4°  2' 
W.  of  Tokyo),  162  ft.  aBove  the  sea,  in  the  Kyoto  Prefecture, 
near  the  geographical  center  of  Yamashiro  —  one  of  the  his- 
torical Five-Home  Provinces.  It  is  the  capital  of  Kyoto  fu, 
and  is  27  M.  N.E.  of  Osaka,  its  natural  seaport,  and  327  W. 
of  T5ky6  —  which  since  1868  has  been  its  political  mentor. 
Its  beautiful  situation  in  an  amphitheater  of  perennially  green 
mts.,  whose  gracefully  sweeping  skirts  are  flecked  witli  medi- 
eval pagodas  and  teniples,  mrt  m  turn  with  flower-embowered 
landscape  gardens;  its  palaces,  musetuns,  parks^  and  uni- 
versities, and  its  multiplicity  of  fascinating  shops,  endow  it 
with  charms  which  have  a  potent  attraction  for  Occidental 
travelers.  For  more  than  a  Uiousand  years,  or  from  a.  d.  794 
to  1868,  it  was  the  poUtical,  intellectual,  ecclesiastical,  and 
artistic  center  of  Japan,  and  altlK)ugh  its  poUtical  supremacy 
was  wrested  from  it  at  the  time  of  the  Restoration,  when  the 
Imperial  Court  moved  to  Yedo,  it  is  still  supreme  in  the  fine 
arts;  in  the  variety  and  barbaric  splendor  of  its  Buddhist 
fanes  (of  which  there  are  878,  with  82  Shinto  shrines) ;  in  the 
beguilement  of  its  colorful  and  kaleidoscopic  streets  with 
their  surging  throngs;  and  in  its  historical  associations  —  for 
the  entire  region  round  about  is  classic  ground  where  for  nearly 
two  thousand  years  Japanese  history  nas  run  its  variegated 
course.  From  the  summits  of  the  bulky  hills  which  rise  im- 
mediately to  the  north,  east,  and  west  of  the  city,  one  may 
command  magnificent  views  of  the  plain  and  the  more  distant 
mts.,  and  particularly  of  the  fine  old  monasteries  tucked 
away  in  incomparable  positions  in  the  umbrageous  folds  of 
the  valleys  which  gash  the  mt.  sides,  surrounded  by  ancient 
parks  and  splendid  trees.  Dreaming  amid  extensive,  sunny, 
nower-Hdecked  gardens  and  orchards,  they  remind  one  of  cer- 
tain of  the  fine  old  conventual  estates  of  Southern  Spain  — 
peaceful  retreats  in  which  hosts  of  merry,  well-fed  brothers  of 
the  tonsure  lead  calm  monastic  lives. 

To  many  travelers,  Kyoto  is  by  far  the  most  picturesque 
and  satisfying  of  the  interior  cities  of  Nippon.  To  all  it  is  a 
wholly  charming  survival  of  feudal  times,  and  it  is  the  Mecca 

>  The  word  Kv5to  is  the  Chinese  equivalent  for  the  otig$xi»i  Miudko 

('Ipiperial  Capital ')f  in  turn  a  contraction  of  Afiya,  ImitenaX  'PaXsAQ  VySm^ 

a  Shintd  ahiiae),  aad  Tokoro,  plaoe  or  abode..  Before  the BfiStoraAioTXt  Kci« 

or  £euAi  ('Coital'),  waa  applied  exolujsively  to  it;   aad  ai\«t  tY^aX  MMi- 

S^^%£?^f'^^-^J^'^\-^^  ^^  frequently  referred  to  aa  8<»^^»^^<? 

—  wjuuier  the  Junperor  had  gone  permanently  to  lealde. 


406    Route  er.  KYOTO  Desaiplm. 

.of  almost  every  traveler  to  the  opulent  East.  Enthusiastic 
writers  refer  to  it  lovingly  as  the  Rome  of  Japan,  the  City  of 
Temples,  of  Artists,  and  what-not.  Its  people  are  intensely, 
fahatic^bUy  Japanese;  and  they  are  as  proud  of  the  city  as  the 
Parisians  are  of  the  splendid  metropolis  by  the  Seine.  To  them 
it  is  all  that  is  beautiful  and  worthy.  To  remain  there  while 
they  live,  and  to  be  buried  in  one  of  the  temple  gravj^ards 
when  they  die,  is  the  ambition  of  most  of  the  people.  To  the 
absorbed  and  extraordinarily  skilled  artists  of  this  relic  of 
Imperial  dominance,  crushing  feudalism,  and  monkish  sway, 
the  inhabitants  of  bustling  Osaka  are  mere  puttering  moilers 
after  fugitive  and  illusory  wealth;  the  bumptious  Edokko  (or 
T5ky5ites),  pleasurers  and  politicasters;  and  others  of  the 
Empire  so  unfortunate  as  not  to  be  able  to  live  in  K^5to, 
more  or  less  boorish  folk  out  of  touch  with  the  finer  ethics  of 
Old  Japan.  The  indefinable  but  insinuating  and  convincing 
charm  of  Kydto  is  as  unmistakable  as  it  is  subtle.  Essentially 
a  city  of  art,  Ky6to  loves  the  refined  pleasures  which  a  love 
of  art  awakens,  and  this  sentiment  often  finds  e^mression  in 
spectacular  processions  marked  by  such  wonderful  costumes 
and  gorgeousness  of  color  that  they  attract  visitors  from  fdl 
parts  of  the  globe.  In  the  motley  throngs  that  pulse  gayly, 
and  apparently  in  an  idle  way,  through  the  narrow  streets 
festooned  with  lanterns  and  blazing  with  Oriental  color,  there 
is  a  strong  medisevalism,  for  many  of  the  people  still  adhere 
rigidly  to  the  fast-vanishing  customs  of  early  days.  This 
pleasing  flavor  of  antiquity  is  accentuated  by  the  temple-like 
appearance  of  many  of  the  houses  (which  aim  to  illustrate 
Buddhist  precepts  by  being  plainer  without  than  within), 
and  by  the  deep,  booming  notes  of  colossal  temple  bells  heard 
at  frequent  intervals  throughout  the  city.  The  temples  them- 
selves, many  of  them  miniature  art  museums,  represent  the 
architecture  of  almost  every  age,  and  in  this  they  are  of  un- 
failing interest  to  the  ecclesiologist. 

In  the  manufacture  of  art  metal-work,  ceramics,  fans,  dolls, 
silks,  and  other  stuffs,  Kyoto  holds  first  place  among  the  busy 
cities  of  Nippon.  Fashions  in  art  may  be  said  to  originate  here, 
for  the  amazing  energy  of  the  purposeful  people  expresses 
itself  in  constructive  ways  that  appeal  strongly  to  the  fancy 
of  others.  Here  the  best  traditions  of  Japanese  art  are  fos- 
tered, and  the  stranger  who  treads  the  winding  halls  of  the 
Imp^al  palaces,  or  the  vast  aisles  of  certain  of  the  Buddhist 
fanes,  is  often  amazed  and  filled  with  a  quiet  joy  before  the 
marvelous  productions  of  artists  who  lived  and  loved  and 
wrought  here  before  the  Plantagenets  ruled  England  or  Colum- 
bus (&eamed  of  re-discovering  America.  From  the  primitive 
o/d  potteries  which  for  centuries  have  produced  porcelains  to 
adorn  ptdacea  in  almost  every  laad,  and  from  the  crude  but 
wonderful  hand-looms  whence  \iave  oom.^  ^^  >at^^<adefi  and 


^uy  OwiHons.  KYOTO  f7.  BmOe.    407 

tapestikB  equal  in  qualily  and  beauty  to  any  that  Europe  has 
produoedi  there  are  still  turned  out  beautiful  art-treasures 
which  scores  of  eagor  tourists  bear  away  each  year  to  their 
Weston  homes.  The  work/  rather  than  the  workshops, 
improves  with  the  years,  and  in  the  stuffy  cubby-holes  which 
diner  so  little  from  their  prototypes  of  the  Middle  Ages,  one 
watches  fabrics  grow  under  the  d^t  touch  of  craftsmen  whose 
forebears  mayhap  worked  on  the  same  spot  more  than  half 
a  thousand  years  ago.  The  city  is  a  fascinating  mine  of  interest 
for  the  art-lover;  nere  upwiurd  of  107,000  men  and  women 
are  engaged  in  some  sort  of  industry,  annually  producing 
goods  worth  45  million  ifen. 

.  The  city  proper  is  in  the  form  of  an  ellipse  with  several 
diff^^nt  quarters,  and  is  divided  into  unequal  halves  bv  the 
Kanuhgawa  CDuck  River'),  which  enters  it  from  the  N.,  is 
idned  at  the  Demadd  Bridge  by  the  Takanthgawa  ('Falcon 
K.')}  and  flows  S.  to  its  junction  with  the  Y&ioifatua.  The 
Katswra  Rivera  a  prolongation  of  the  HQzvrgawa,  flows  past 
it  on  the  W.,  and  between  this  and  the  Kcmuhgawa  (parallel- 
ing the  latter),  is  the  narrow  and  shallow  but  swift  Takaae" 
gawa,  much  uised  by  small  boats.  Canals  intersect  them  and 
connect  with  the  Bitoa  Canal  which  flows  in  at  the  N.E.  The 
area  of  approximately  18  sq.  M.  is  being  added  to  steadily, 
as  the  city  is  rapidly  expanding  toward  the  N.E.  For  admin- 
istrative purposes,  it  is  divided  into  two  large  districts,  Kamir- 
kyo  kUf  or  that  section  lying  N.  of  Saimd-dSri;  and  Shimokyo  ku, 
to  the  S.  of  it.  The  East  Quarter,  or  Transpontine  Ky5to,  rises 
gradually  from  the  Kamo  River  to  the  oeautif ully  wooded 
slopes  of  a  range  of  uneven  hills  running  N.  and  S.  called 
Higaahi  Yama  C Eastern  Mountain^}  and  along  whose  crest, 
from  Shdgun-zvJca  (behind  the  Miyako  Hotel)  to  Kiyomizvr 
dera  (PI.  E,  5),  run  footpaths  which  remind  the  traveller  of  the 
Carlsbad  roads.  From  the  shaded  terraces  hereabout,  the 
views  over  the  city  and  valley  are  extraordinarily  fine.  Far- 
ther toward  the  N.E.,  at  the  extreme  limit  of  the  valley,  rises 
the  stately  and  historic  Hiep-zarif  and  beyond  it,  silhouetted 
against  the  sky-line,  the  mts.  of  Kuramaj  Hirane,  and  Mikuni. 
Atago-yama  (3000  ft.)  and  the  graceful,  flower-garlanded 
Arashi-^ama  rise  at  the  W.,  and  are  seen  to  fine  advantage 
when  the  sun  ^des  behind  them.  The  historic  Momo-yama 
and  Fushimi  lie  toward  the  S.W.  Midway  between  the  Kamo- 
gawa  and  the  summit  of  Higashv^yamaf  trending  S.  from  a  point 
near  the  Miyako  Hotel  to  Maruyama  Park  (PI.  E,  4),  is  the  wide, 
primitive,  beautifully  shaded,  and  attractive  avenue  known  to 
foreigners  as  Temple  Street,  up  from  which  are  some  of  the 
finest  of  the  city  temples.  Its  northernmost  point  lies  in  the 
district  called  Awata  (near  the  Awata  Palace)  y  the  seat  ol  \Seia 
earth^iware  industry,  and  where  the  exquisite  Avxita  WareVa 
made.  BeyondAfaru^ama  Park  the  avenue  loeea  \\a  ^XaXA'v 


408    BoiUe^.  KYOTO  .     ThefUrefftL 

charact^,  and  its  restdctod  prolongation  is  dominated  by  the 
celebrated  KiyomiziA-zaka  (the  Tea-iV>t  Lane  of  foreigners), 
which  leads  E.  to  the  Kiyomdzu  Temple*  This  region  is  also 
famed  for  its  porcelain  (p.  ccliii),  and  attractive  specimens 
of  the  widely  known  Kyoto  Ware  are  for  sale  in  many  ol  the 
shops.  The  Qojd  district,  farther  S.,  produces  pottery  of  vari- 
ous kinds,  and  the  region  beyond  it,  nearer  to  Fiiahiini,  ia  noted 
for  its  manufacture  of  dolls  —  one  of  Kyoto's  many  specialties. 
Shimabcara,  at  the  S;.W.,  beyond  the  Nishi^Hangwavji,  is  the 
courtezan  quarter. 

T%e  Metal  Industry  (gold-bronze,  damascene,  and  oth^ 
wares)  is  concentrated  on  the  W.  side  of  the  Kama  Biver,  in 
the  commercial  heart  of  the  dty.  A  long  way  N.Ww,  beyond 
Nijo  Castle,  in  the  Nishijvnf  or  'Western  Camp'  district 
(so-called  for  a  daimyd  named  Yonuma,  who  encamped  here 
during  the  troublous  period  in  1467),  are  the  looms  on  which 
the  finest  of  all  the  fine  brocades  in  Japan  are  woven.  The 
weavers  (o7%a)  are  known  as  Nishijin  oriya,  and  formerly 
were  under  Imperial  jurisdiction;  the  products  (Nishijinrori) 
turned  out  of  the  small  and  lar^e  factories  are  legion  and  are 
usually  very  beautiful.  The  silk-weaving  industry  (which 
originated  in  Arabia)  is  older  than  history,  md  is  believed  to 
have  been  practiced  in  Japan  before  the  Cluistian  era.  Korean 
and  Chinese  experts  gave  an  impetus  to  it  in  the  4th  cent.,  and 
it  became  firmly  established  in  Kvoto  in  a.d.  794.  The  finest 
of  the  hand  embroideries  are  done  oy  men,  who  excel  as  needle- 
workers. 

The  Streets  are  chw^cterized  by  cleanliness  and  regularity. 
Many  are  as  straight  as  arrows  and  cross  others  at  right  angles. 
Some  are  being  widened,  while  Others  are  flanked  by  seeming  v 
interminable  rows  of  little  houses  that  look  as  if  they  were  all 
hewn  out  of  the  same  forest  and  fashioned  by  the  same  hand; 
When  the  Emperor  Kwammu  laid  out  the  original  city,  he 
planned  it  after  the  Chinese  city  of  Si-ngan  (or  Chang-an  — 
Continuous  Peace')  in  Shensi  Province,  miaking  it  in  the  form 
of  a  rectangle  of  5  kilometers  in  length  and  4}  in  breadth, 
surrounded  by  moats  and  palisades,  and  with  the  Imp^al 

Palace  occupying  the  center  of  the  N.  part.  A  great  thorough : 

fare  called  JShujaku-dji,  or  the  'Main  Road  of  the  Grentry' 
(the  busy  Sembon  St.  of  the  present  day),  ran  from  the  S.  gat 
of  the  castle  inclosure  (at  the  time  N.  W.  of  the  present  sit^  t 
the  S.  gate  of  the  city,  and  divided  this  into  halves — Choan,  oi 
the  'Ri^t  (or  W.)  Capital,'  &nd  Rakuyo,  'Left  (or  E.)  Caj 
ital.'   Each  half  was  subdivided  into  jo  or  divisions  allottc 
tb   persons   according  to  their  rank;   thus,  in  the  first  oi      _ 
Ickijd  —  the  one  nearest   the  palace  —  dwelt  upper-gradtf^^ 
folks;  those  of  the  next  rank  lived  in  Nijo  (2d  st.) ;  third-  '      ^"^ 

pie  dwelt  in  Sanjd  (3d  st.V*  and  so  on  through  Shiid,  i 

lifd,  and  Shichijd  (4tti,  5ui,  ^Yl,  aiAIVlti^Xa^v^bero 


KYOTO  27.  Boule,    409 

fringe  of  society  lived  th^i,  and  the  rly.  station  stands  now. 
The  broadest  of  these  streets  (ddri)  were  170  ft.  wide,  and 
these  were  paralleled  by  others  40  ft.  wide.  As  simUar  sets  of 
streets  ran  N.  and  S.,  the  old  capital  was  divided  into  squares 
like  those  on  a  checker-board.  There  were  1216  of  these,  each 
called  a  cho,  and  each  400  ft.  square.  A  low  wall  and  a  double 
moat  girdled  the  city,  and  gatcfl  stood  at  the  ends  of  the  main 
avenues.  The  busy  ManUd-machi  (*  log-street')  now  flanks 
the  S.  side  of  the  ralace  grounds.  The  small  street  called 
Kyogoku,  which  extends  from  San^o  to  Shijo,  is  lined  with 
theaters  and  is  very  gay  in  the  evemng.  The  Buddhist  temple 
near  the  upper  end,  at  the  right,  back  in  a  small  yard,  is  the 
Segaiv-ji,  and  It  has  a  black  Amida  on  the  main  altar. 

Bridgbs  (bashif  or  hashi)  cross  the  Kamo  River  in  corre- 
spondence with  certain  of  these  streets.  Many  of  them  are 
adorned  with  big  bronze  giboshu,  and  are  shrouded  in  historical 
memories.  Among  the  oldest  and  most  celebrated  is  the  Sanjo- 
ruhOhashi  ('Great  3d  Ave.  BridgeOi  a  stately  structure  corre- 
sponding in  a  way  to  the  nationally  famous  Nippon  Bridge 
at  T5ky5.  Distances  are  measured  from  it,  ana  it  was  for 
many  years  the  starting-point  for  daimyd  and  other  processions 
bound  for  the  Shogunat  Court  at  Yedo.  The  river  which  flows 
broadly  beneath,  and  which  completely  fills  its  vast  stony 
bed  only  during  the  rainy  season,  receives  the  waters  of  the 
Lake  Biwa  Canal  and  other  streams,  and  forms  numerous 
islets  on  which  dyed  stuffs  are  often  spread  to  dry  in  the  sim. 
The  unusually  clear Jand  pure  water  possesses  the  ciuious  prop- 
erty of  'setting'  dyes,  and  at  nearly  all  seasons  one  may  see 
men  and  women  standing  knee-deep  in  the  stream  swishing 
to  and  fro  long  strips  of  cloth  freshly  dyed  or  being  made  ready 
for  bleaching  or  dyeing.  Market-gardeners  come  here  to  rinse 
their  huge  white  daikons  in  the  stream,  and  at  times  long 
streaks  of  coloring  matter  tinge  the  water  like  pennants. 
Many  houses  of  entertainment  flank  the  river,  which  in  Aug. 
is  tlu*onged  by  persons  who  come  hither  for  coolness  and 
diversion. 

Unlike  many  Japanese  cities  Kyoto  possesses  pleasins 
Suburbs  which  afford  charming  walks  enriched  by  delightful 
views.  The  palace-dotted  environs  of  the  "N.  quarter,  and 
the  beautiful  wooded  slopes  of  the  hills  at  the  E.,  are  the  most 
readily  accessible  on  foot.  Whichever  way  one  turns  there  are 
historic  or  flower-decked  spots.  In  addition  to  the  excellently 
kept  Imperial  landscape  gardens,  there  are  a  nimiber  of  smaller 
ones  privately  maintained  and  well  worth  seeing.  Those  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  Miyako  Hotel  can  usually  be  seen  through  the 
good  offices. of  Mr.  M,  Hamaguchiy  the  hotel  manager.  Some 
of  the  wealthier  temples  sit  in  gardens  that  in  point  of  beauty 
are  equal  to  many  of  the  finest  in  Japan.  A  quiet  etroW  V^DSoraqecL 
some  of  them  will  take  the  nerve  strain  out  of  tihe  moe^  \)ist- 


410    Route  S7.  KYOTO  History. 

plexed  individual,  the  while  deepening  the  impression  that 
Kyoto  is  essentiaUy  a  city  of  relaxation.  It  is  a  city  of  great 
memories,  a  felicitous  blend  of  the  North  and  the  South,  of 
Moscow  and  Seville,  celebrated  alike  for  the  erudition  and 
gallantry  of  its  men,  and  for  the  beauty  and  chann  of  its 
women.  Few  of  the  big  cities  of  the  Empire  afford  the  traveler 
the  same  opportimities  of  studying  Japanese  Ufe  and  customs 
in  their  best  aspect. 

ffi8tDi7*  Prior  to  the  8Ui  cent.  Kydto  was  an  insignificant  village  (called 
Uda),  with  only  its  splendid  site  to  recommend  it.  It  remained  unknown  to 
fame  until  the  (50th)  Emperor  Ktoammut  believing  that  the  monkish  hier- 
archy which  at  that  time  practically  ruled  Nora  (the  first  permanent  capital 
of  the  Japanese  Empire)  was  endangering  the  best  interests  of  the  State, 
mov^  the  Imperial  residence  thither  —  first  to  Nagaoka  in  784,  thence 
(in  794)  to  Kydto.  *  Everything'  (sasrs  Murdoch,  vol.  1,  p.  207)  'was  done 
in  strict  accordance  with  the  requirements  of  the  science  of  geomanoy;  the 
new  Temvle  of  Enryaku-ji  on  Mount  Hiei-xan  on  the  N.E.,  —  the  quarter 
whence  ill  luck  and  evil  influences  came  —  was  to  serve  as  the  indispensable 
outpost  to  deal  with  malignant  demons.  The  site  was  found  to  be  under  the 
protecting  influence  of  the  four  genii  who  preside  over  the  cardinal  points, 
—  the  Afure  Dragon  on  the  East,  the  White  Tiger  on  the  West,  the  Red 
Bird  on  the  Soutli,  and  tlie  Dark  Warrior  on  the  North.  A  clay  statue  8  ft. 
high,  with  casque  and  cuirass  of  iron,  and  bow  and  arrows  in  hand,  was 
erected  on  a  hiUook  to  the  E.  of  the  city,  (on  Shogun-^mJcat  near  the  Miyako 
Hotd)t  to  serve  as  a  special  tutelary  deity  —  a  Japanese  version  in  clay  of 
the  P^iUaa  Athene  on  the  AcropoUs.  It  was  believed  that  when  changes  in 
the  Empire  were  impending  this  image  gave  timely  warning  by  bursting  into 
song  and  moving  itself.' 

Kwammu  named  his  new  capital  Heian-kyd  ('  capital  of  peace  and  tran- 
quillity'), and  his  castle  H  eian-j  6  {*  caatle  of  peace).  The  cultur^  classes 
oifferentiated  it  from  Nara  by  calling  it  Hokuto  ('  northern  capital,  or  con- 
stellation ').  Barring  a  brief  interval  in  1180,  when  Taira  Kxyomori  took 
his  Court  to  his  Palace  of  Fvkkxihara,  it  remained  the  capital  of  Japan  for 
875  years.  Seventy-seven  Emperors  held  their  courts  here  and  almost 
as  many  wars  marked  their  advent  and  disappearance.  During  the  long  in- 
terval it  underwent  many  changes,  but  its  general  plan  remains  on  the  lines 
of  its  earliest  projection..  At  first  its  growth  was  rapid.  The  gradual  advent 
of  a  social  state,  in  which  one  section  of  the  people  ministered  to  the  luxu- 
rious proclivities  of  the  other,  was  accompanied  by  the  rise  of  three  great 
families,  the  Minamoto,  the  Taira,  and  the  Fuiitoaro,  whose  feuds  devastated 
the  country  for  five  centuries.^  As  the  active,  administrative  heart  of  the 
Empire,  Kyoto  was  for  centuries  the  chief  objective  point  of  every  swash- 
buckling, piratical  picaroon  who  essayed  to  overthrow  the  Imperial  or 
the  military  authority,  and  few  cities  of  the  East  have  suffered  more  heart- 
breaking trials  or  horrid  ordeals.  It  has  been  repeatedly  sacked  and  burned 
by  militant  monks  and  predatory  samurai,  would-be  shdguns  and  feudal 
usurpers,  and  razed  bv  terrible  earthquakes,  scourged  by  epidemics,  and 
buffeted  and  wrecked  by  elemental  forces  or  internecine  strife.  Its  history 
is  substantially  thaf  of  Japan  from  the  8th  to  the  12th  century^  when  the 
redoubtable  ifinamolo  Yoritomo  established  his  military  oligarchy  at 
Kamakura  and  ruled  the  land  from  that  sh5gunal  seat.  Time  and  again 
the  Emperor-loving  people  of  Kydto  saw  the  fierce  Ktoanto  horse-bowmen 
defiling  through  their  streets  in  all  the  stem  panoply  of  war,  in  seemingly 
intenmnable  troops  and  squadrons;  or  the  magnificent  trains  of  armored 
courtiers  from  the  militarv  stronghold  at  Kamakura,  where  pomp  and 
splendid  pageantry  replaced  the  poverty  and  misery  which  all  too  frequently 
overtook  ^e  old  Imperial  dty.  During  the  violent  earthquake  and  storm 
of  Aug.,  797,  whole  rows  of  streets,  hundreds  of  temples,  and  thousands  oT 
houses  fell  into  ruins,  and  the  city  was  almost  annihilated.  Tragedy  stalked, 
abroad,  and  the  suffering  was  ai^alling.  Earthquakes  in  850,  857,  864,  ami' 
^8  deetroyed  portions  of  the  capital,  while  the  historical  fire,  which  brok9 
out  while  a  t^hoon  was  blowing  in  1177,  burned  the  Palace  and  one  thinS. 
of  the  citijeiui  houses,  along  wiih  mv«t«\  \\iQ\3fiasA  o\  M}tv%  vsv>aJA.tiQa. 


History.  KYOTO  f^.  /2oiite.    411 

Two  numths  before  the  removal  of  the  Couit  in  1180,  *  there  was  a  very 
wretched  state  of  things  caused  by  famine.  Misfortunes  succeeded  each 
other.  Either  there  was  drou|^t  in  spring  and  summer,  or  there  were  storms 
and  floods  in  autumn  and  winter,  so  that  no  grain  came  to  maturity.  The 
spring  ploughing  was  in  vain,  and  the  labor  of  planting  out  the  rice  in  sum- 
mer came  to  naught.  There  was  no  bustle  of  reaping  in  autumn,  or  of 
ingathering  in  winter.  In  all  provinces  people  left  their  lands  and  sought 
ower  parts,  or,  forgetting  tiieir  h(Hnes,  went  to  live  among  the  hills.  All 
kinds  of  praj^ers  were  begun,  and  even  religious  practices  which  were  imusual 
in  ordinary  times  revived,  but  to  no  purpose  whatever.  The  capital,  depend- 
ent as  it  is  on  the  country  for  everything,  could  not  remain  un<$oncemed 
when  nothing  was  produced.  The  mhabitants  in  their  distress  offered  to 
saorifioe  their  valuables  of  all  kinds,  but  nobody  cared  to  look  at  them. 
Even  if  buyers  came  forward,  they^made  Uttle  account  of  gold,  and  much  of 
grain.  Beggars  swarmed  by  the  roadside,  and  our  ears  were  filled  with  the 
sound  of  their  lamentations.  Amid  such  misery,  we  with  difficulty  reached 
the  close  of  the  first  srear.  With  the  New  Year,  men's  hopes  revived.  But 
that  nothing  might  be  left  to  complete  our  misfortunes,  a  pestilence  broke 
out  and  continued  without  ceasing.  Everybody  was  dying  of  hunger,  and 
as  time  went  on,  our  state  became  as  desperate  as  that  of  the  fish 
in  the  small  pool  of  the  story.  At  last  even  respectable-looking  people 
wearing  hats,  and  not  unshodj  might  be  seen  beg^ng  importunately  from 
door  to  door.  Sometimes  while  you  wondered  how  such  utterly  wretched 
creatures  could  walk  at  all,  they  fell  down  before  your  eyes.  By  garden 
walls  or  on  the  roadsides  countless  i>er8ons  died  of  famine,  and  as  their 
bodies  were  not  removed,  the  air  was  filled  with  evil  odours.  As  the  ccnpses 
changed,  there  were  many  sights  which  the  eye  could  not  endure  to  see.  It 
was  worse  on  the  river  banks,  where  there  was  not  even  room  for  horses  and 
vehicles  to  pass.  Porters  and  woodcutters  too  .became  so  feeble  that  fire- 
wood got  scarcer  and  scarcer,  and  people  who  had  no  means  pulled  down 
their  houses,  and  sold  the  timber  in  the  market.  .  .  .  The  number  of  those 
who  died  in  central  Kydto  during  the  fourth  and  fifth  months  alone  were 
42,300.*  {Chomei,  HdJdki.)  —  The  series  of  great  earthquakes  of  11S5  did 
immense  damage,  and  the  surface  of  the  ground  shook  and  quivered  for 
weeks.  At  anouier  time  more  than  80,000  persons  perished  of  plague  and 
famine  in  Kydto  alone. 

Kyoto  was  a  sort  of  political  barometer  of  conditions 
throughout  the  Empire,  and  when  the  capital  was  at  its  high- 
est point  of  ;nagnificence  and  splendor,  a  revolution  could 
always  be  predicted.  Trobably  its  zenith  of  glor^  was  in  the 
diays  of  Ashikaga  Yoshimitsu  (1368-74),  when  it  had  more 
than  500,000  inhabs.  He  undertook  the  building  of  temples 
and  palaces  on  a  scale  suggesting  that  the  resources  of  the 
nation  had  only  one  fitting  purpose,  the  embellishment  of  the 
capital.  A  pagoda  360  ft.  nigh,  and  a  ''golden  pavilion''  wer^ 
among  his  most  celebrated  constructions.  The  former  disap- 
pearea  altogether  in  the  "eleven  years'  war"  half  a  century 
later,  and  of  the  latter  only  a  portion  remains,  —  a  three- 
storied  pavilion,  the  ceiling  of  the  second  story  decorated  with 
paintings  by  a  celebrated  artist,  and  the  whole  interior  of  the 
third  story,  ceiling,  walls,  floor,  balcony-railing,  and  pro- 
jecting rafters,  covered  witn  gilding  which  was  thickly  applied 
over  varnish  composed  of  lacquer  and  hone-powder.  Traces 
alone  of  the  gold  can  now  be  seen,  but  the  effect  when  the  edi- 
fice was  in  full  preservation  must  have  been  dazzling.  Yoahf 
imasa,  who  succeeded  to  the  shoguncUe  in  1449  imd  is  remeoor 
bered  as  Japan's  foremost  dilettante,  erected  a  Silver  Pa'T^iv 
in  imitation  of  his  predeeesaofB  foihie,  but  never  earned  V\i  \a 


412    Route  27.  KYOTO  HUM9. 

completion.'  Of  Ky5to  as  it  was  in  his  days,  at  the  middle  of 
the  15th  cent.,  before  long  years  of  war  reduced  it  once  more 
to  ruins,  a  faint  conception  can  be  formed  from  the  descrip- 
tion of  subsequent  writers.    Says  one:  — 

'The  finest  edifices  were  of  course  the  Imperial  Palaces.  Their  rocrfs 
seemed  to  inerce  the  sky  and  their  balconies  to  touch  the  clouds.  A  lofty 
hall  revealed  itself  at  every  fifth  step  and  another  at  every  tenth.  No  poet 
or  man  of  letters  could  view  these  beauties  unmoved.  In  the  park,  weeping 
willows,  plum-trees,  peach-trees,  and  pin^  were  cleverly  planted  so  as  to 
enhance  the  charm  of  the  artificial  hills.  Rocks  shaped  like  whales,  sleeping 
tigers,  dragons  or  phoenixes,  were  placed  around  the  lake,  where  Mandarin 
ducks  looked  at  their  own  images  in  the  clear  water.  Beautiful  women 
wearing  perfumed  garments  of  exquisite  colors  played  heavenly  miudo.  As 
for  the  Flower  Palace  of  the  Shdgun,  it  cost  six  hundred  thousand  pieces  of 

f;old  (about  5  million  American  dollars).  The  tiles  of  its  roof  were  like 
ewels  or  precious  metals.  It  defies  description.  In  the  Takakwra  Palate 
resided  the  mother  of  the  ehogun  and  his  wife.  A  single  door  cost  as  much 
as  20,000  pieces  of  gold  ($160,000).  In  the  eastern  part  of  the  city,  stood  the 
Kc^aMt-moTu  Palaee^  biult  by  Yoahimtiea  during  his  youth.  It  was  scarcely 
less  magnificent.  Then  there  was  the  Fujiwara  PaUice  of  the  Sanjo,  where 
the  mouier  of  the  late  shdgun  was  bom.  All  the  resources  of  human  intellect 
had  been  employed  to  adorn  it.  At  Hino  and  Hirohashi  were  mansions  out 
of  which  the  mother  of  the  present  shdgun  came.  They  were  full  of  Jewels 
and  precious  objects  (as  were  many  of  the  other  27  palaces  of  the  noble 
famines).  Even  men  that  made  medicine  and  fortune-telling  their  pro- 
fession, and  petty  officials  ^  like  secretaries,  had  stately  residences.  There 
were  some  200  of  such  buildine^,  constructed  entirely  of  white  pine  and 
having  four-post  gates  (gates  with  flank  entrances  for  persons  of  inferior 
rank).  Then  there  were  a  hundred  provincial  nobles,  great  and  small,  each 
of  whom  had  a  stately  residence,  so  that  there  were  altogether  from  6  to 
70O0  houses  of ^  a  fine  type  in  the  capital.  The  great  temples  that  stood 
in  the  city  and  its  suburbs  were  legion.  The  Sho-kaku-ji,  which  Yoshimitsu 
built,  cost  a  hundred  times  as  much  as  13  pagodas  of  a  century  later.  Alasl 
The  city  of  flowers  which  was  expected  to  last  for  ten  thousand  years,  be- 
came a  scene  of  desolation;^  the  home  of  the  fox  and  the  wolf.  Peace  suc- 
ceeds war,  rise  follows  fall  in  all  ages,  but  the  catastrophe  of  the  Onin  era 
(1467)  obliterated  the  ways  of  Emperor  and  Buddha  at  once.    All  the 

?;lories  of  Imperialism  and  all  the  grandeur  of  the  temples  were  destroyed 
orever.  Well  did  the  poet  write:     The  capital  is  like  an  evening  lark.   It 
rises  with  song  and  descends  among  tears."  ' 

It  was  not  until  the  16th  cent,  that  Kyoto  regained  some  of 
its  old-time  magnificence.  St.  Francis  Xavier  visited  it  in 
1551,  when  it  was  at  its  lowest  ebb,  and  remembering  Marco 
Polo's  reference  to  its  golden  palaces,  he  left  it  sadly  disillu- 
iionized.  Under  Nohunaga's  vigorous  rule,  order  and  pros- 
perity returned,  so  that  the  year  1585  finds  it  again  a  city  of 
palaces  and  wealth.  The  great  earthquake  of  15%  leveled 
it  to  the  ground,  wrecked  the  Daihutsu  and  HideyoshVs 
magnificent  Peace  Palace  at  Fiishimij  &nd  practically  ruined 
it,  but  by  1612  the  Daibutsu  was  again  in  place  and  the  capital 
rose  once  more  to  prominence.  Engelhert  KaempfeTy  writings 
in  1690  says:  — 

*  Miako  is  the  great  magazine  of  all  Japanese  manufacturers  and  com--^ 
modities,  and  the  chief  mercantile  town  in  the  Empire.   There  is  scarce  a»^ 
house  in  this  large  capital  where  there  is  not  something  made  or  sold.   Here^ 
they  refine  copper,  eoin  money,  print  books,  weave  the  richRst  stuffs  witl^ 
fiola  and  olver  flowers.  The  best  and  scarcest  dyes,  the  most  artful  carv-^ 
ing&,  all  sorts  of  musical  iDBtruments,  pictures,  japanned  cabinets,  all  sort^ 
of  thuigs  wrought  in  gold  and  othex  me\A\a>  ^«cVi<i^\]JLarly  in  steel  (as  it/^ 


Awata  Palace.  KYOTO  t7.  Bank.    413 

best  tempered  bladee  and  other  anus)  are  made  here  in  the  utmoat  perfec- 
tion, as  are  also  the  richest  dresses.  And  after  the  best  fashion,  all  sorts  of 
toys,  puppets  moving  their  heads  of  themselves,  and  numberless  o^er 
thmgs  too  many  to  be  here  menticmed.  In  sh(xt  there  is  nothinff  can  be 
thought  of  but  what  may  be  found  at  Afiofco,  and  nothing,  though  never  so 
neatly  wrought,  can  be  imported  from  abroad  but  what  some  artist  or 
other  in  this  capital  will  undertake  to  imitate  it.  Considering  this  it  is  no 
wonder  that  the  manufactures  of  MicJco  are  become  so  famous  throuijphout 
the  Empire  as  to  be  easily  preferred  to  all  others,  though  perhaps  inferior  in 
some  particulars,  only  because  they  have  the  name  of  oeing  made  here. 
There  are  but  few  houses  in  all  the  chief  streets  where  there  is  not  some- 
thing to  be  sold,  and  for  my  part  I  could  not  help  wondering  whence  they 
can  have  customers  enough  for  such  an  immense  quantity  of  goods.' 

The  present  city  is  undergoing  reconstruction  and  is  being 
greatly  improved.  The  increasing  demand  abroad  for  manu- 
factured products  is  enriching  many,  and  the  spirit  of  progress 
and  money-making  has  so  touched  certain  sections,  that  they 
fairly  hum  with  industry.  The  standard  of  creature-comforts 
grows  higher  each  day,  and  many  edifices  of  brick  and  stone 
are  replacing  the  modest  houses  of  feudal  times. 

The  Central  and  Southeastern  Quarters. 

♦AWATA    P^LACTE.    *ChION-IN.    MaBXTTAMA    PaBK.    GiON    NO    XaSHIBO. 

gxGASHi  Otani.   KOdai-ji.  Yasaka  Pagoda.  *KiTOinzu-DEitA.  Nibhi 
rANi.  DAiBiTTsn.   Big  Bell.   H5kaku-jinja.  Amida-oa-minb.  Eab 
Mound.    *Impebial  Abt  Mubbum.    Chishaku-in.    MitOho-in.    Sav- 

J17-8AN-GEN-DO.    TOFUKU-JI.    InaBI  ShBINB.    SpaBBOW-HoUBB. 

The  *  Awata  Palace  (Atoata  no  Goten)^  to  all  intents  and  pur-r 
poses  a  temple  with  the  customary  priestly  apartments  (5  sen 
fee),  faces  a  narrow,  picturesque  thorou^fare,  Awata  Goten 
Maye  (called  Temple  Avenue  by  foreigners),  10  min.  walk 
from  the  Miyako  Hotel,  in  the  Awata  District  (PI.  E,  3).  Though 
shorn  of  much  of  its  former  gloiy  it  still  retains  some  au- 
thentic art-treasures,  and  a  charming,  landscape  garden  worth 
seeing.  The  present  Shishin-den  was  erected  in  1895  on  the 
site  of  a  structure  (burned  in  1893)  which  is  said  to  have  dated 
from  876  and  to  have  served  as  a  place  of  retirejnent  for  the 
Emperor  Seiwa  (859-76)  —  who  ascended  the  throne  when 
9  yrs.  old  and  is  the  first  recorded  child  Emperor  of  Japan. 
During  the  time  of  the  Emperor  Go-Toba  (1184-98)  the  Palace 
groimds  included  all  the  land  southward  to  Maruyama  Park, 
An  immense  camphor  tree  with  wide-spreading  branches  and 
exposed  roots  is  a  conspicuous  feature  near  the  entrance,  from 
which  the  bonze  conducts  one  to  a  small  room  containing  some 
old  cryptomeria  doors  (stigv^)  embellished  with  tigers  and 
bamboos,  and  some  dim  old-gold  fvsuma  with  landscapes  by 
Tosa  Mitsunohu.  The  square  central  screen  adorned  with 
crests  and  bamboos  by  Karid  Sanraku.  was  brought  from  the 
Palace  built  by  Toyotomi  Hideyoshi  at  Momo-yarm  in  1593, 
The  adjoining  room  has  a  screen  and  fusuma  painted  with 
landscapes  on  a  gold  ground  by  Kano  Eitoku,  and  the  oae 
following  it,  a  big  gold  screen  with  a  Tnatsuri  ^v^ex-casXi  otl 
one  side  and  a  sacred  horse  (by  Hokyo  Tdahu)  oi^^^i^^liossL. 


414    RaiOe  S7.  EYGTO  AvkUd  fitdace. 

In  the  suite  formerly  occupied  by  the  family  of  the  late  Em^ 
perqr  are  some  more  swgCdo  by  Sumiyoshi  Gukei  (who  also 
painted  the  pine  trees  by  the  seashore,  in  the  Hamamat8Urw>- 
ma),  showing  the  style  of  cart  used  in  the  Gion  McUauri,  The 
kakemonos  (which  are  subject  to  removal)  depicting  episodes 
in  the  life  of  Kenshin-Daisni  are  by  Sumiyoshi  Kokm, 

The  Sea-bibd  Room  has  some  rather  good  old-gold  fiLsuma 
of  various  aquatic  birds  by  Shimada  Kazue-^o-  Kamif  and  a 
number  of  musical  instruments  used  in  the  temple  festivals; 
the  two  small  bronze  hand-bells  are  reputed  to  have  been 
brought  from  China  by  Jikaku-Daishi  m  847.  The  roll  of 
manuscript  of  certain  doctrines  of  the  Hokke  sect  (of  Bud- 
dhists), written  by  Kobd-Daiski  upward  of  a  thousand  years 
ago,  is  perhaps  authentic.  The  adjoining  room  —  which  con-  ■ 
t^ns  the  mortuary  tablets  of  many  long-dead  Emperors;  some 
screens  of  Chinese  subjects  by  Kand  Motonobu  (Ko^Hdgen); 
a  shrine  with  a  figure  of  Amida  carved  by  Eshin  Sdzu,  and  a 
mctiu%  (by  a  one-time  abbot  of  the  Nishi  Hongwanji)  of 
Kenshin-Daishi  when  he  was  90  yrs.  old  —  is  too  sacred  for 
the  traveler  to  enter,  and  must  be  viewed  from  the  threshold, 
since  the  sainted  bonze  was  baptized  on  this  spot  more  than 
700  jrrs.  ago!  The  Chinese  scenes  on  the  fusuma  in  the  suc- 
ceeding room  are  by  Kand  Eitoku,  The  specimen  of  hand- 
writing is  of  the  Emperor  Shomu,  who  constructed  the  Nara 
Daibutsu.  Here  and  at  the  end  of  the  corridor  are  more  cedar 
doors  adorned  with  Gion  Matsuri  carts.  The  adjacent  throne- 
room  (of  the  late  Mikado)  has  some  fusuma  by  Kano  KyUseki, 
and  a  mascot  (a  gift  to  the  temple  from  the  late  Emperor's 
father)  in  the  form  of  Jurojin,  a  little  man  with  an  abnormally 
long  head  (one  of  the  7  gods  of  good  luck) .  Conspicuous  among 
the  relics  (chiefly  imperial  gifts)  displayed  in  one  of  the  suc- 
ceeding suites  is  an  image  of  Amida^  said  to  be  more  than  2000 
3rrs.  old;  a  small  figure  of  Jizo  sculptured  by  Shotoku-taishi  in 
686;  a  curious  statue  of  Bishamonten  ascribed  to  Jikaku- 
Daishi;  and  two  old  Korean  candles  presented  to  the  temple  in 
the  16th  cent,  by  Katd  Kiyomasa.  The  old  screens  by  Kand 
Yasunobu  are  beneath  notice.  In  one  of  the  corridors  here  is  a 
bizarre  old  panel-screen  showing  the  genealogical  tree  of  the 
great  fighting  clans  of  the  Fujiwara^  Taira,  and  Minamoto, 

The  long  and  narrow  water^basin  in  the  garden,  which  we 

pass  on  the  way  to  the  Ko-gosho,  where  the  Mikado  sometimes 

lodges  when  he  is  in  Kyoto,  is  said  to  have  been  presented  to  the 

institution  by  Toyotomi  Hideyoshi.    The  somewhat  striking 

fusuma  in  the  first  room  of  the  suite,  depicting  pine  trees, 

waterfalls,  and  what-not,  aie  by  Kand  Morinobu,  and  are 

ireJfi-preserved  specimenB  oi  tYie  st^V^  oi  ^otY  ^-^xAaa:  in  the 

ITtii  cent.    The  pretty  mex  aceiTiea  (daMva^  It^xo.  \3ckfc  ^»safc 

period)  in  China,  are  by  Kan5  DosKuu  .^^^^  «t^  \»\«t^!Gsn% 

portrayals  of  the  method,  \6nftpxact\ced\xie\i\mMv^^^^^5i^^ 


Afoaia  Palace.  KYOTO  S7.  HovUe.    415 

of  fishing  with  oormcffanta.  Kand  TanyU  and  Kand  EUoku 
did  some  of  the  decorative  work  herej  the  monkey  and  pheas- 
ants on  the  (nyptomeria  doors  bdng  m  TanyiVB  poorest  man- 
ner. This  versatile  man  (p.  ccxxviii),  who  so  often  lapsed  from 
artistic  virtue;  had  a  passion  for  painting  these  quachnmanons 
mammals,  and  the  four  laiige/u«tima  in  the  next  room  show  some 
of  his  more  normal  work.  This  is,  however,  decidedly  inferior 
by  contrast  with  the  two  large  folding  silk  screens  by  Cho 
Shaku  Ran  J  a  well-known  artist  of  the  Ming  period;  they  are 
among  the  best  things  here  and  were  gifts  from  the  Emperor 
Reigen  (1663-86).  The  graceful  figures  in  the  groups  are 
drawn  with  consummate  SKill  and  with  the  light,  sure  touch  of 
a  master  hand;  the  tones,  though  faded,  are  still  lovely;  and 
the  princely  forms  of  coiu*tiers,  court  dames,  and  other  high 
digmtaries,  who  seem  to  float  suavely  and  graciously  through 
the  delightful  perspective,  lin^r  in  the  mind  as  one  passes  to 
other  suites  and  to  less  charmmg  compositions.  Kan6  TanyU 
is  seen  ^ain,  this  time  in  one  of  his  best  moods,  in  the  room 
where  Ko-Hogen  Motonobu  has  some  Chinese  scenes,  and 
Kand  Eitoku  some  still  better  ones  (at  the  back).  The  panels 
by  Eitoku.  in  an  adjacent  room;  showing  the  primitive  pro- 
cesses of  silk-making,  from  the  unwinding  of  the  cocoons  to  the 
weaving  of  the  cloth,  are  interesting.  The  always  satisfying 
Kand  Ddshunhssioui  noteworthy  panels  at  the  back,  s3nnbol- 
izing  a  celebrated  Chinese  poem  in  which  Oriental  fancy  pro- 
trays  dainty  wine-cups  filled  to  the  brims  and  placed  m  the 
center  of  upturned  leaves  that  float  languidly  downward  on 
the  bosom  of  a  placid  stream,  to  a  point  where  eager  and 
laughing  youths  await  impatiently  their  safe  arrival. 

The  Garden,  which  indubitably  is  one  of  the  most  charm- 
ingly dainty  conceptions  in  the  old  capital,  was  laid  out  by 
two  of  the  most  celebrated  artists  of  the  times  (15th  cent.): 
the  S.  half  by  Maruyama  Soami,  the  tea-drinking  poet,  painter 
and  crony  of  the  shogun,  Yosnimasaf  and  who  planned  the 

rden  of  the  Kinkakuji  for  that  harebrained  roysterer;  the 
half,  where  cluster  the  azaleas  which  so  glorify  it  in  the 
spring,  by  the  no  less  renowned  Kobori  Enshu  (or  K.  Maaa" 
hazuj  1579-1647),  one  of  leyasu^s  favorites  who  won  fame  as 
an  artist,  a  poet,  a  designer  of  flowers  and  of  landscapes,  and 
who  founded  a  school  (called  EnshU-ryu)  to  teach  the  solemn 
punctilio  of  the  chorno-^yu  ceremony.    The  fact  that  a  long 
dynasty  of  emperors  and  their  beautiful  and  imperious  consorts 
have  paced  its  serpentine  paths  and  gazed. at  the  moon  from 
its  quaint  bridges  enhances  its  interest.    In  May  when.  ^iVl^ 
rosaceous  Kerria  japonica  (Jap.  yamabuki)  ttaoBioTinA  VK^  « 
spot  into  a  golden  bower  and  vies  with  the  asaloaa  axidi  ViBr 
/Jara  £a  beautifying  it;  or  in  early  Nov.,  when  a  bcotc  oi  «Aot- 
able  little  maple  trees  Bush  to  the  first  boisterouA  caie»B  ol  AJtefe 
aortiiwiDd  and  mark  the  hiU-dopea  with  mantlea  oi  ftaiftft*  ^^Soft 


416    Bouie  fS7,  KYOTO  Chian^in  Tmr^. 

garden  is  seen  at;  its  best.  Then  the  quaint  little  p0nd  supposed 
to  be  shaped  like  a  dragon's  heart,  and  the  stone  bridge  tym- 
f^pig  two  dragons  abreast;  the  cameUias  and  their  cousins  the 
pink-and-white  mzanJcwas,  and  all  the  host  of  other  flowers  aiui 
distinctive  features  of  the  place  impart  to  it  a  new  aspect  and 
make  of  it  a  .delightful  retreat  which  to  see  is  not  to  for^t. 
There  are  a  number  of  mazy  walks  up  miniature  mountains 
and  throu^  tiny  bosky  dingles,  ana  in  particular  a  little 
knoll  and  a  sequestered  resting-place  called  'Sorrow-forgetting- 
terrace/  admirably  well  named,  for  here  one  enjoys  a  vista 
over  the  N.  and  W.  portions  of  Kyoto  so  beguiling  in  its  com- 
pleteness that  it  gives  one  scant  time  to  think  of  anything  cdse. 
The  historic  Hiei-zan  starts  up  at  the  right,  while  Ataga-yama 
and  his  satellites  stand  out  boldly  and  challengingly  at  the  left; 
scores  of  glistening  temple-roofs  and  not  a  few  pomted  pa^^as 
thrust  their  great  bulk  upward  through  the  sacred  groves 
slashed  in  the  mt.  sides,  and  prove  that  Ky5to,  like  Rome,  is 
a  city  of  temples.  The  small  ^reen  hump  straight  out  ahead, 
with  its.  pinnacled  pagoda  amid  trees,  is  Kurodani^yanyiy  the 
spot  where  the  glorious  old  temple  of  the  same  name  dreams 
of  past  splendor  in  its  sequestered  ^ve.  The  smaller  hill  at 
the  left,  scattered  over  with  houses,  is  Yoshidoryama, 
^  At  the  back  of  the  yard  near  the  base  of  the  great  verdant 
ridge  which  rises  steeply  behind  it  is  a  small  structure  called 
the  tea-serving  room,  where  the  immortal  Nobunaga  (who 
rebuilt  a  portion  of  the  palace)  used  to  retire  from  the  cares 
of  State;  and  where  the  Empress  (from  1763  to  1770)  GoSaku- 
ramachif  who  used  to  call  it  her  palace,  lived  for  three  years. 
The  decorations  of  the  narrow  panels  which  form  the  inner 
walls  are  by  the  peerless  Maruyama  OkyOy  and  Shimada  Kazue- 
no- Kami.  Time  has  dealt  harshly  with  them,  but  their  his- 
torical associations  retrieve  their  faded  splendor.  There  is  a 
piece  of  queer  iron-stone  in  the  yard  hereabout,  which  belies 
its  stony  aspect,  and  gives  out  the  ring  of  true  metaJ  when 
struck.  —  Almost  facing  the  exit  is  Yamanaka^s  exhibition  of 
bewilderingly  beautiful  Japanese,  Chinese,  and  Korean  art 
works;  and  farther  along  at  the  S.,  some  attractive  little  native 
shops,  among  them  one  where  water-worn  stones  for  the  deco- 
ration of  landscape  gardens  are  sold.  Still  farther  S.  (5  min.)  is 
the  CMon-dUj  described  below. 

The  *Temple  of  Chion-in  (pron.  chee-wo-neen'),  a  splendid 
old  monastenal  institution,  at  present  the  principal  seat  of  the 
Chinzei  branch  of  the  powerful  Jodo  sect(  of  Buddhists),  occu- 
pies a  commanding  and  romantically  beautiful  site  on  a  suc- 
« cession  of  terraces  cut  from  the  green  and  rugged  slope  of 
Higashiryama  (PL  E,  4).  The  main  temple,  one  of  the  foremost 
in  Kyoto,  and  a  typical  bit  of  uncompromisingly  pure  old 
Buddhist  architecture,  faces  8.,  and  the  lofty  cryptomerias,  the 
sfdendidfy  graceful  pines,  aiA  ^^^^  ^onovaa  mB.v^«^'«^<iVl  dom* 


ChiorUn  Temple.  KYOTO  iB7.  BtnOB.    417 

inate  it  (an  unforgettable  sight  in  Nov.)>  as  well  as  the  suo- 
cessive  flights  of  stone  steps  which  lead  up  to  it,  foreshadow 
the  splendor  beyond  and  remind  one  of  the  superbly  situated 
mausolea  of  incomparable  Nikkd.  The  immense  stone  walls 
which  hold  the  terraces  in  place,  and  the  chmming  perspective 
through  the  leafy  bowers  acc^ituate  the  comparison,  not- 
withstanding the  fact  that  the  plain  but  stately  old  gateway 
below,  while  equally  imposing  in  its  way,  is  much  less  eiiowy 
than  the  glittering  relics  of  the  opulent  Tokugawa  era.  This 
samman,  a  huge  two-storied  weather-beaten  structure  80  ft. 
high  (one  of  the  largest  in  Kyoto),  rises  from  a  granite  plinth 
65  ft.  wide,  165  long,  and  23  steps  up  from  the  roadway.  Its 
immense  bulk,  which  is  added  to  by  the  flights  of  lateral  stairs 
that  lead  up  to  the  (iminteresting)  second  story,  is  not  without 
pictiu-esqueness  —  particularly  when  the  crimsoning  maples 
are  in  their  prime.  Then  the  perspective  from  the  park-like 
stretch  without  is  one  of  the  most  beguiling  things  in  the  city, 
and  no  traveler  should  miss  it.  In  the  pretty  little  pond  at  the 
right  is  a  stone  shaft  surmounted  by  a  graceful  statue  of  Kvxin- 
non.  The  49  stone  steps  which  lead  to  the  first  terrace  are  less 
commonly  used  than  the  easier  and  wider  asc^it  over  the 
Woman's  Road  (onna^zdka)  at  the  right.  At  the  top  of  either 
flight,  the  traveler  finds  himself  on  a  broad  esplanade  from  the 
extreme  right  of  which  another  series  of  steps  lead  up  to  a  still 
loftier,  but  smaller  terrace,  where  the  great  bell  hangs  qtdetly 
in  its  massive  belfry. 

The  original  temple  was  founded  in  1211  by  GenkHf  a 
learned  priest  (b.  1133;  d.  121i2),  who  abandoned  the  observ- 
ances of  the  Tendai  sect  and  became  famous  by  professing 
that  spiritual  salvation  and  entrance  into  the  'pure  lan<r 
(jodo)  could  be  obtained  only  through  prayer;  to  this  end  he 
repeated  the  name  of  Amida  as  many  as  60,000  times  a  day. 
The  militant,  non-conforming  bonzes  (under  whom  he  had 
studied)  of  the  Enryaku-ji  (on  HieC-zan)  succeeded  in  having 
him  exiled  to  Sanuki,  whither  he  returned  to  Ky6to  (in  1210) 
to  die  at  the  age  of  76.  Known  as  Honen  ShoniUy  he  was  later 
canonized  imder  the  posthumous  title  of  Enko-Daishi;  when 
his  temple  was  burned  in  1633  it  was  promptly  rebuilt  in  its 
present  form  by  the  order  of  the  Tokugawa  eftdgurtj  lemitsUf 
and  solemnly  dedicated  (in  1639)  to  his  memory.  A  great  cel- 
ebration was  enacted  here  in  1911,  at  which  time  the  struc- 
ture was  practically  renovated.  The  same  date  saw  the  com- 
pletion of 

The  Amida-d6  (Buddha's  Hall),  which  stands  at  the  left 
of  the  main  temple  and  is  connected  thereto  by  a  covered  «pis 
ridor.  It  is  a  huge  two-storied  structure  of  distinctively  gratt* 
diose  proportions,  with  a  fine  porch  almost  covered  with  crisp 
woo(}-carvings  of  flowers,  storks,  elephant  head&/BXi<dL  iiDL)}^Q&6- 
'k^icaJ  animals.   The  twa  handsome  biroiiiie  l?ai^£9^-^>8dBAI^'^ 


418    Route  27.  KYOTO  v- 

the  form  of  lotus  leaves  at  the  right  and  left  of  the  steps,  and 
the  bronze  incense-burner  under  the  portico,  are  all  worth 
noting.  A  superbly  gilded  figure  of  Amida  sitting  on  a  big 
lotus  oloom  beneath  a  veritable  shower  of  glittering  mettu 
enrichments^  is  the  most  striking  feature  of  the  main  altar  in 
the  surprisingly  tidy  interior.  Supporting  this  reliquary  is  an 
elaborate  red-  and  black-lacquered  stand  of  admirable  work- 
manship. Pending  from  the  ceiling  are  numerous  sexagonal 
metal  ddbaUf  with  a  clawing,  crimson-throated  dragon  at  each 
of  the  angles;  the  special  one  (tengai)  above  the  archbishop's 
seat  being  very  elaborate.  Rows  of  attractively  lacquered 
sti^OHstandSy  enriched  with  yellow  metal  and  provided  with 
gold-flecked,  crystal-knobbed  rolls  of  the  Buddhist  scriptures 
adorned  with  Tokugawa  crests,  are  ranged  round  three  sides 
of  the  altar,  where,  at  nearly  all  hoiws  of  the  day,  a  priest  sits 
and  methodically  taps  a  little  drum,  perchance  to  orown  the 
voices  of  devotees  who  bow  their  heads  to  the  vei^y  floor  and 
implore  the  'Enlightened  One'  to  hearken  to  their  plaint  of 
Namu  Andda. 

The  Main  Temple  (167  ft.  long,  138  deep,  and  95  ft.  high) 
displays  a  few  mediocre  wood-carvings  along  the  cross-beams 
of  the  vast  portico,  while  in  the  yard  facing  it  are  some  large 
and  beautiful  bronze  lotus-bloom  fountains  over  whose  dim- 
pled edges  limpid  water  plashes  unceasingly  into  stone  troughs 
oelow.  The  g^t  tile  antefixes  at  the  angles  of  the  roof,  in  the 
form  of  homed  demons  of  frightful  mien,  are  supplemented  at 
each  comer  of  the  porch  by  dainty  Buddhas,  which  look  as  if 
they  enjoyed  their  exalted  positions.  Bronze  wind-bells  pend 
from  the  comers,  and  the  white  beam-ends  of  the  compound 
brackets  form  a  striking  contrast  with  the  natural  color  of  the 
wood.  A  feature  of  this  porch,  with  which  every  Japanese  is 
familiar  and  which  the  sharp  eye  of  the  traveler  may  detect, 
is  a  small  wire  screen  high  up  under  the  eaves  at  the  right  of  the 
entrance,  covering  what  looks  to  the  naked  eye  like  a  hose- 
nozzle.  To  the  credulous  natives  it  is  a  miraculous  object 
known  far  and  wide  as  the  Wasure'-gaaay  or  'forgotten  um- 
brella.' According  to  the  temple  records  (which  none  disbe- 
lieve), while  the  abbot  was  one  day  performing  an  important 
dedication  ceremony  before  the  final  touches  had  been  given 
to  tiie  roof,  rain  began  to  fall,  whereupon  a  fox  god  appeared 
and  held  an  umbrella  over  his  reverend  head  till  the  function 
was  completed!  When  the  abbot  looked  for  his  protector  he 
had  disappeared,  but  the  umbrella  remained  as  proof  that  a 
miracle  had  been  performed.  The  anachronistic  proletariat, 
obUvious  oi  the  fact  tihat  Hidari  Jingoro,  the  great  sculptor, 
died  in  1634,  five  yrs.  beiore  tiie  temple  was  completed,  relate 
that  be  left  the  umbrella  there  wYieiiYv^  feiS^^^W.,  w\d  they 
'       '—  ojill  it  Hidari  JingorS  no  \»a8UTe-gaAa,  Ka^Vxcrac^N. 


.^.•/ne.  KYOTO  n.  BauU.    419 

on  wliich  the  t^nple  standB),  appears  on  all  the  oompressed 
rice-oakes  which  the  priests  dispense  to  pilgrims  and  othera. 
Before  entering  the  temple,  it  is  worth  while  noting  the  mas- 
sive carving  beneath  the  great  ridge-pole,  in  the  angle  formed 
by  the  slopmg  roof. 

The  spacious  Intbbiob  happily  is  devoid  of  trumpery  and 
strained  elaboration,  and  in  consequence  is  singularly  satisfy- 
ing —  as  elegant  in  its  decorations  as  the  exterior  is  austere. 
An  the  rich  ornamentation  is  centered  at  the  main  altar,  where 
stands  the  splendidly  gilded,  templenahaped  shrine.  A  picture 
of  Honen  Shonin  occupies  tne  place  of  honor  in  the  rehquary, 
and  facing  it,  beneath  a  swinging  metal  baldachin,  is  a  sump- 
tuous cathedra,  for  the  archbishop.  Very  striking  is  the  effect 
produced  by  the  real  (dwarfed)  pine  trees  which  grow  from 
vases  placed  at  the  comers  of  the  altar  dais,  and  by  the  gilded 
metal  lotuses  20  ft.  or  more  high.  The  superb  keuakir-wowl  pil- 
lars, heavily  sheathed  with  gold,  which  support  the  superstruo- 
ture,  are  upward  of  30  in.  in  diameter  and  are  majgnificent 
examples  of  the  great  girth  attained  by  some  of  these  forest 
^ants.  In  lieu  of  capitals,  they  carry  nch  polychome  decora- 
tions, and  in  the  case  of  the  outer  ones  this  enrichment  —  of 
gold  foil  laid  on  so  heavily  that  it  resembles  drapery  —  flows 
upward  to  the  compound  brackets  supporting  the  immense 
tie-beams.  A  number  of  the  regal  fitments  were  presented  by 
enthusiastic  devotees  when  the  700th  anniversary  of  the 
founding  of  the  temple  was  celebrated  (in  1911)  with  great 
splendor.  Outside  the  chancel  rail  is  a  line  of  the  peculiar 
sleigh-bell  type  of  gong,  used  in  many  of  the  Japanese  temples^ 
and  which  the  priests  pound  lustily  while  chanting  the  Bud- 
dhist formula.  At  the  end  of  a  covered  passage  leading  hence 
is  the  ShueirdOf  a  lai]ge  plain  room  where  scores  of  snaven- 
pated  young  acolytes  in  flowing  robes  and  with  downcast  eyes 
may  be  seen  at  times  kneeling  on  padded  mats  beside  lao- 
][uered  stUra-hoxeaj  intoning  the  sacred  scriptures  to  the  sound 
(f  tapping  drums,  amidst  the  curling  smoke  of  incense.  The 
lain  altar  enthrones  a  gilded  figure  (by  Eshin  Sozu)  of  Amidob' 
itsu,  who  is  especially  reverenced  by  the  Jodo^hu;  on  his 

ft  is  an  image  of  Seiahi-bosatsu,  and  on  his  right  a  Kwanrum' 

satsUf  both  members  of  his  retinue.  The  side  altar  contains 

other  Amida  and  (left)  a  Manjvrboaatsu  in  priestly  robes. 

le  black-and-gold  mortuary  tablets  are  of  emperors  and 

ler  notables. 

The  most  prized  treasures  of  the  temple  are  in  the  O-HlHO 
\  Ko-Hojo  of  the  GoteUy  a  structure  at  the  right  of  the 
•ei-doj  erected   by    the  Toktigawa  shogun^  /enviUu,  «aA 
)rated  by  some  of  the  most  celebrated  17t]b.*ceTi\>.  «x\a&\a  ^ 
Kano  school.   To  the  patriotic  Japaneee  asid  oexV^a^  ^i^' 
wtic  foreign  writers,  some  of  these  wan  reftectaoiia  o\  «  "^ 
veBs  recessive  beauties  which  the  casual  eye  ^<a» 


420    BouJtefSr.  KTOTO  Ckum^n  TrniiiU. 

cuhy  in  perceiving.  The  sliding  fusuma  on  which  a  majority 
of  the  pictures  ase  painted  are  woefully  dingy,  and  sometimes 
sadly  defaced,  the  one-time  brilliant  gold  backgrounds  showing 
dully  across  the  centuries,  with  figures  and  landscapes  that 
have  faded  almost  to  the  vanishing  point.  The  bonze  conducts 
the  visitor  along  a  wide  corridor  with  (p.  clxxx)  'nightingale' 
floors  (of  which  there  are  said  to  be  upward  of  1800  ft.  in  the 
temple)  to  a  spacious  apartment  used  for  ceremonious  recep- 
tions; at  times  more  fusuma  are  introduced  and  it  is  converted 
into  a  number  of  smaller  rooms  each  named  for  the  decorative 
motives  on  the  panels.  The  large  faded  screen  at  the  left  of  the 
threshold,  depicting  two  playful  Korean  lions  on  a  field  of 
gold,  are  by  Kand  TanyU,  Equally  unattractive  is  a  very  old 
folding  screen  showing  an  Imperial  procession  at  Nara  in  the 
8th  cent.  —  the  work  of  the  renowned  Domo  no  Matahei 
(p.  ocxxiv).  The  Plxtm  Room  has  sliding  screens  of  blossoming 
plum  trees  by  Kand  Sadanohu,  and  the  Stork  Room,  otJiers 
with  graceful  white  storks  in  various  attitudes,  by  Kano 
Naonohu  —  whose  work  also  shows  in  the  Pine-Tree  Room. 
The  three  following  rooms,  en  suite,  —  greatly  reverenced  be- 
cause the  late  Mikado,  whose  throne  is  seen  in  one  of  them, 
once  occupied  them,  —  are  embellished  with  poor  conven- 
tional drawings  by  Nobumasa  and  Naonobu,  In  the  succeed- 
ing suite  are  some  panels  with  strangely  unattractive  snow- 
scenes  by  Kand  Eitoku;  some  landscapes  also  by  him;  some 
birds  and  flowers  of  no  merit,  and  a  set  of  the  SixteenRakan,  by 
Ndbwnmsa.  An  Imperial  Prince  is  said  to  have  become  a  priest 
and  had  his  head  shaved  in  the  room  where  there  are  pictures 
of  bamboo  and  plum  trees.  The  pink  and  white  chrysanthe- 
mums in  the  succeeding  room  are  by  Nobumasa,  to  whom  is 
also  ascribed  the  excellent  panel  showing  a  white  heron  {inruiorv- 
no-sagi)  in  the  act  of  taking  wing.  A  specimen  of  his  work, 
upon  which  the  natives  look  with  awe,  is  shown  in  one  of  the 
contiguous  rooms  —  the  ghostly  outlines  of  a  tiny  sparrow 
(nuke-suzums)  which  was  painted  so  true  to  the  life  that 
it  flew  away  and  left  only  its  shadow!  An  equally  grave  accu- 
sation—  one  in  which  the  priests  believe  unreservedly  —  is 
made  regarding  one  of  his  doors  in  the  corridor ;  here  he  painted 
a  pine  tree  with  such  fidelity  to  nature  that  resin  exuded  from 
its  trunk!  Hard  by,  on  another  panel  by  him.  is  sji  angular 
and  shadowy  grimalkin  which  real  cats  oonsiaer  so  uncanny 
that  they  put  up  their  backs  and  spit  at  it  when  they  see  it! 
The  Willow-Tree  Room  has  uninteresting  decorations  by 
Sddanobu,  —  At  the  base  of  the  Kax:hd  HiU,  visible  from  the 
side  door  of  the  temple,  is  a  pretty  landscape  garden  laid  out 
by  Kchofi  Enshu, 
The  Revolving  Libraut  Oc^iQzo^  «A.  >^^^.  ^^V>)  «5»1  tke 
honden,  contains  perhaps  a  comp\e;\.e  «>eV,  oi  \Xi^^M^^\^\:««^ 
tim»;  tlie  three  seated  figotea  lacm^  XX^^  ^Ti\.xwi^  «t^  ?Mr 


Maruyama  Park.  KYOTO  tS7,  Route,    421 

Daishi  and  his  sons  Fuken  and  Fujd.  The  stone  steps  near 
here  lead  up  to  a  higher  terrace  on  which  is  the  Seishinid  (with 
a  statue  of  Seishi^MsaUu),  the  oldest  building  of  the  Chwnrin 
group.  In  the  3rard  is  a  deep-toned  bell,  and  behind  the 
shrine  is  a  spot  regarded  by  the  priests  as  the  most  charming 
in  the  temple  inciosure;  a  break  occurs  in  the  trees,  and 
through  the  gap  one  gets  a  winsome  view  of  the  broad  plain 
and  the  city  spread  languorously  athwart  it,  while  beyond 
the  bulky  mts.  —  the  highest  of  which  is  Atago^an  —  girdle 
it  like  a  wall.  On  a  still  Mgher  terrace  cut  from  a  rocky  ledge 
and  idealized  by  some  lovely  mai)les,  is  one  of  the  Tombs  of 
Honen  Shonin.  The  structure  is  richly  embellished  and  is  the 
scene  of  considerable  pomp  between  the  19th  and  24th  of 
April,  when  the  anniversary  of  the  great  priest  is  celebrated.  — 
The  Big  Bell  (t8urigane)y  2d  largest  in  Japan  (comp.  Osaka) 
and  one  of  the  great  bells  of  the  world,  weighs  74  tons,  is 
about  10  ft.  10  in.  high,  9  ft.  in  diameter,  11  in.  thick  at  the 
lip,  and  was  cast  in  1633.  The  inmiensely  strong  old  bell- 
tower  was  completed  just  before  the  bell  was  cast,  but  it  was 
partly  restored  in  1911. 

Maruyama  Park  (PI.  E,  4),  a  pretty,  tree-embowered  spot 
on  the  slope  of  Higashir-yama  between  the  Chion4n  and  the 
Kodai'jif  is  a  favorite  resort  of  Kyoto  people  and  is  celebrated 
locally  for  its  cherry  and  maple  trees.  The  splendid  (200  yrs. 
old)  cherry  tree  near  the  entrance,  tottering  with  age  and 
propped  up  with  crutches,  is  called  the  Gion-no-yo-zaJcuray 
or ' Night-blooming  Cherry,'  from  the  local  custom  of  decorat- 
ing it  with  a  host  of  lanterns  during  the  cherry-blossom  season 
—  at  which  time  crowds  of  people  come  to  see  it.  Near  the 
lower  end  (W.)  of  the  Park  stands  the  Gion  no  Yashiro  (often 
referred  to  as  the  Fosafca-jiwja),  a  popular  (and  very  holy) 
Ryobu'Shintd  shrine  said  to  have  been  founded  in  656.  Its 
origin  is  a  subject  of  much  controversy;  the  rites  of  the  original 
native  religion  in  their  pristine  purity  were  perhaps  celebrated 
here  a  millennium  ago,  when  the  shrine  was  dedicated  to 
Susano-o  no  Mikoto,  With  the  amalgamation  of  Buddhism 
it  lost  its  primitive  intention,  and  took  the  name  of  an  adjacent 
Buddhist  temple  called  Gion-ji.  At  one  period  of  its  existence 
it  was  a  dependency  of  the  Buddhist  temple  of  Kofuku-ji, 
and  later  of  the  Enryaku-jL  With  the  disestablishment  of 
Buddhism  it  again  became  Shinto,  It  is  an  attractive  old 
structure  (erected  in  1654  on  the  site  of  a  much  earlier  one) 
with  a  beautiful  hinoki  roof  stained  by  time  to  a  fine  moss- 
green  above,  and  a  rich  wine^red  below;  architects  will  note 
the  neat  way  in  which  the  thin  strips  forming  the  lower  part 
of  the  nether  roof  (at  least  10  in.  thick)  are  pVa^i^d.  k  tqp«  ^ 
Quaint  iron  Ian  terns  girdle  the  shrine  and  lian^  itoixi  ^btw^  e«N^». 
Tlie,  ornate  brass  lantema  of  the  front  porc^  and  >;Xi'ei«!^^^ 
liojves  in  the  yard  are'  relics  of  earlier  day B.   TYifc  aaW\w5o» 


422    RmUe  $7.  KYOTO  .     Higaaki  (kanL 

flanking  the  portico  impart  the  appearance  of  a  wine-oellar. 
The  huge  vermilion  gateway  adorned  with  gilded  crests  is  a 
striking  object  amidst  the  ^reen  trees.  The  edifice  between 
it  and  the  shrine  contains  pictures  of  the  36  most  celebrated 
poets  (san-ju-rokurkasen)  who  lived  before  the  11th  cent.  — 
each  in  his,  or  her,  favorite  attitude.  Both  the  shrine  and  the 
gateway  are  seen  to  the  best  advantage  when  approached 
through  the  great  gray  granite  torii  (one  of  the  largest  in 
Japan)  which  stands  before  the  S.E.  entrance.  On  the  night 
of  the  1st  and  15th  of  each  month  the  adjacent  groimds  are 
converted  into  a  flower-market.  The  nationally  celebrated 
Gion  Festival^  which  lasts  for  a  week  from  July  17,  attracts 
thousands  of  people  and  is  one  of  the  most  popular  of  its  kind 
in  Japan.  The  week  bears  somewhat  the  same  relation  to 
Ky5to  that  the  Semana  Santa  does  to  Seville,  and  it  is  marked 
by  impressive  pageantry  which  most  travelers  will  not  wish 
to  miss. 

The  Gion  Festival,  one  of  the  three  great  annual  processions,  is  said  to 
have  come  into  prominence  during  the  reign  of  the  Emperor  Seitoa,  at  a 
time  when  the  country  was  scour^^ed  by  a  pestilence  which  raged  with 
particular  fury  in  Kydto.  To  eliminate  it,  ihp  Imperial  astrologers 
assembled  a  multitude  of  people  to  participate  in  a  'driving  Away*  cere- 
mony.  Each  carried  a  lon^  curved  halberd  {naginatat  or  nagtncUcMu^)  of 
a  type  fashioned  by  Kokajx  Munechika  (a  famous  swordsmitib)  in  gratitude 
for  the  life  of  his  daughter  —  who  had  been  attacked  by  the  plague.  Dupli- 
cates of  these  primitive  instrimients,  along  with  many  othw  cunous  objects 
symbolic  of  the  occasion,  are  carried  in  the  solemn  procession,  which  is  often 
a  mile  or  more  long  and  includes  gorgeously  decorated  cars,  floats  drawn 
by  oxen,  drums,  and  a  boat  (J^ne-hoko)  supposed  to  be  an  exact  model  of  the 
one  used  by  the  Emvreaa  Jingd  in  her  invasion  of  Korea.  Many  youths  take 
part  in  the  musical  entertainment,  and  at  night  the  festival  district  is 
illuminated  by  thousands  of  lanterns.  The  hotel  management  reserves  seats 
for  guests  in  the  several  grand  stands  erected  along  the  route. 

At  midnight  on  the  last  day  of  the  year,  when  Christians 
hold  their  watchnight  services,  Japanese  repair  in  numbers  to 
the  revered  Gion  Shrine  for  coals  from  the  holy  fire  which  they 
take  home  with  them  to  cook  the  rice-cakes  (mochi)  popular 
on  New  Year's  Day.  —  The  Geisha  Training  School  is  near 
the  Gion-rhachi  —  a  eay  street  where  the  Cherry  Dance  is  held 
in  April.  —  The  wide,  gently  sloping,  stone-flagged  avenue 
(i  M.  long)  which  stretches  away  at  the  right  of  the  t€rii  facing 
the  Gion  Shrine,  and  which  is  flanked  by  stone  lanterns  and 
overhung  by  graceful  pine  trees,  leads  to  the  entrance  of 

The  Higashi  Otani  (PI.  E,  4),  a  greatly  revered  burjdng- 

Elace  of  the  abbots  of  the  Higashi  Hongwanji,  Some  of  the 
ones  of  Shinran  Shonin  are  said  to  be  interred  here.    The 
elaborately  carved  gateway  at  the  top  of  the  avenue  is  en- 
riched witn  many  bronze  fitments.  Beyond  it  the  stone  steps 
trend  to  the  right,  then  sweep  to  a  higher  level  where  a  number 
of  quaint  buildings  are  g;rouped  m  a^«iX^m\k  ^ovsv^  handsome 
bronze  lanterns  and  a  not«woTt\x^^iTOTi^^\o^^var^«^^T\wxsi^^ 
Burmounted  by  a  Bqiurming  dia;e,OTi. — tVi^  wsax^^asa&  ftfSa. 


Kddairji  TempU.  KYOTO  B7.  BotOe.    423 

and  flashilv  ornamented  Main  Tbmple,  on  a  Mquestered  ter- 
race amid  lovely  trees  and  a  restful  environment,  is  now  sadly 
dimmed  by  age;  the  beam-ends  are  all  sheathed  in  heavily 
chased  brass,  and  the  old  wood  sculptures,  like  those  of  many 
other  temples,  are  protected  by  wire  screens  from  the  defile- 
ment of  ihe  numerous  pigeons  which  make  the  place  their 
home.  The  restricted  interior  still  gleams  with  a  golden  after- 
glow of  its  once  exalted  estate;  even  the  many  compound 
brackets  are  covered  with  the  precious  gold  foil,  as  are  the 
deeply  carved,  pierced  panels  forming  the  frieze  above  the 
altiu*.  The  two  end  panels  carry  finely  sculptured  lotus  flow- 
ers in  shimmering  gold,  and  the  three  central  ones  S3rmbolical 
Wheels  of  the  Law  in  triplicate.  A  proud  little  figure  of  Amida, 
darkened  by  age  but  still  stately  amid  a  shower  of  glittering 
tinsel,  stands  on  the  main  altar,  as  a  record  of  the  excellent 
work  of  Kwaikeif  an  llth-cent.  sculptor,  and  pupil  of  Jokaku, 
At  the  right  and  left  are  other  shrines,  one  with  a  revered 
picture  oi  Shinran  Shonin.  The /u«iima  of  the  inner  sanctum  . 
show  various  designs  of  birds  and  flowers  painted  by  artists 
whose  very  names  are  forgotten.  On  a  terrace  reached  by  42 
stone  steps  is 

The  Tomb  of  Skmran  Shonin;  a  simple  affair  of  plain  gray 
granite  surmounted  by  a  shapdess  stone  called  tora-ishif  or 
tiger-stone,  for  its  fancied  resemblance  to  a  tiger.  One's  inter- 
est in  it  is  of  shorter  life  than  in  the  scupltured  wood  gateway 
(attributed  to  Hidari  Jingoro)  which  gives  ingress  to  the  in- 
closure.  Above  the  twin  doors  are  boldly  carved  phoenixes 
and  dragons.  Other  conventional  carvings  appear  on  the  sev- 
eral panels,  conspicuous  among  them,  one  (right)  displaying 
a  sculptured  lioness  peering  over  a  precipice  at  her  cub  below, 
whither  she  has  cuffed  it  in  order  to  harden  it;  and  another 
(left)  with  two  carp  trying  to  leap  upward  over  a  waterfall  — 
symbolic,  to  the  Japanese  (with  whom  both  are  favorite  sub- 

i'ects),  of  fixity  of  puipose  and  a  determination  to  succeed  in 
ife.  On  certain  occasions  —  usually  the  offering  of  rice-cakes 
and  other  food  to  Shdnin*8  spirit  —  one  may  witness  a  pretty 
spectacle  here.  Scores  of  devotees  assemble  in  the  open  Duild- 
ing  opposite  the  entrance  to  the  tomb  inclosure  and  there, 
attended  by  priests  in  gorgeous  robes,  who  intone  a  solemn 
ritual  before  opening  the  gates,  they  kneel,  with  heads  bowed, 
in  silent  reverence.  —  The  exit  at  the  end  of  the  lowest  terrace 
leads  to  a  big  graveyard  behind.  The  traveler  who  elects  to  fol- 
low this  well-traveled  path  down  the  slope,  soon  emerges  near 

The  Kodai-ji  (PI.  E,  4),  a  temple  (admittance,  6  sen)  belong- 
ing to  the  Rinzai  branch  of  the  Zen  sect  (of  B\3Ld^SKM&\2^> 
founded  in  838  and  rebuiJt  in  1601  by  the  "widoT?  (Kita  Mauio- 
ikffro)  of  To^otomi  Hideyoahi,    It  was  bum^  agBAXL  m  Y^^^-* 
from  which  period  the  present  structure  datOB.     KWilbswfitv 
greatly  revered  by  the  nativea  because  of  the  reUcs  oi  tbfc  «^«»*' 


m 


424    «(wtof7.  KYOTO 

Taiko  enshrmed  therein,  fordgnera  are  apt  to  find  the  ri 

with  their  faded  old  screens  and  gaudily  weak  decorations  dull 
and  uniDtereating.  Few  of  them  merit  description.  The 
screens  by  Kano  Koi,  Hasegawa  Tohaku,  and  Dtmm  no 
Matakei  awaken  only  a  languid  interest.  Certain  of  the  relies 
are  more  satiBfactory,  The  lacc|uere<i  lunch-box  carried  by 
Hideyoshi  in  his  military  campaigns  has  many  tiny  compart- 
meotB,  and  is  a  companion  piece  to  the  medicine-cheat,  marked 
by  hia  crest.  TJie  bronze  hand-bell  (of  Indian  origin)  was  used 
by  him  in  camp  as  a  reveille,  and  its  hiatoriu  interest  is  un- 
doubted, for  with  it  the  miCitant  general  has  perchance  called 
many  thoueands  of  his  devoted  followers  from  slumber,  later 
to  see  them  plunged  into  the  deep  sleep  of  eternity.  The  auri-' 
ously  ehapod  stone  on  a  tray  was  brought  to  Huieyoahi  from 
Korea  and  was  used  by  him  as  a  decoration  for  a  minintun 
landscape  garden.  Hia  madreperl  writing-box  ia  perhaps 
authentic.  Hard  by  it  is  the  frame  on  which  his  widow  is  re- 
.  puted  to  have  hung  her  bridal  robes.  The  srdrariolla  embody- 
mg  the  doetrinea  of  the  Hakke  sect,  though  said  to  be  in  the  I 
handwriting  of  Kobo-Daiaki,  are  only  copies  {gilt  characters 
on  a  black  ground}- 

The  garden,  behind  which  rises  a  thickly  wooded  hill,  ia 
pretty  and  is  said  to  have  been  designed  by  Kobori  En^i. 
Spanning  the  lotus-pond  is  an  arched  corridor,  midway  of  which 
is  a  small  platform  (alleged  to  have  been  a  part  of  Hidcyif- 
yoaki's  palace  at  Fiiehimi)  where  the  Taiko  used  to  sit.  aiid 
gaze  at  the  moon.  The  httle  pond  at  the  left,  because  turtle- 
shaped,  is  called  Kamc-no-iAe;  and  the  one  at  the  right, 
shaped  like  a  stork,  Tsum-no-ike,  whence  the  name  of  the 
pair:  Tewru-Kame-no-ike.  The  Kauan-do,  or  Founder's  Hall, 
to  which  the  bonze  now  conducts  one,  is  very  old  and  hideously 
lurid,  with  decorations  embodying  all  the  colors  of  a  craiy- 
quilt  or  a  chrysanthemum  show.  The  ceiling  of  the  outerroom 
is  thought  to  be  a  part  of  the  ancient  war-junk  buUt  to  convey 
Hideyoski  to  Korea;  and  that  of  the  inner  one  (with  four 
Dondeacript  panels  by   Kaiio  Molonobu),  part  of  his  wife's 

Ealanquin.  The  involved  dragon  on  the  smallest  ceilii^  is 
y  Kano  EilnkM.  The  u^ly  old  rusted  iron  incense-burner, 
standing  near,  waa  unskillfully  fashioned  af1«r  a.  repulsive 
octopus,  and  tradition  has  it  that  it  was  brought  from  Korea 
by  Hideyoshi'a  barbaric  general,  Kal5  Kiyomaaa  (known  to 
foreigners  as  a  relentless  enemy  of  Christianity,  and  to  Jap- 
anese as  Kisha-kwan,  or  Dovil  General,  because  of  his  pw- 
sonal  bravery  and  niilitary  victories),  who  ia  worshjpea  in 
certain  temples  of  the  Nidiiren  aect  as  SeUha-hthSeishS  (the 
Chinese  equivalent  of  the  Japanese  Kiyomaaa).  The  figure 
on  tiealtar  13  thatof  tlicab\»t'w\»\>*^\.vKA4ie,Ta.ifea's  wife. 
Tie  visitor  is  now  led  aionft  l.^\e  w-iftiei ' Cwrsiot  o\  >>or. 
Beeumbent  Dragon,' .B^5^n%  s^  poi^i  "^^^^  QMnw^o-n&Akt, 


Yasaka  Pagoda.  EYOTO  i7.  RmOe,    425 

thence  up  a  flight  of  stone  steps  interspersed  with  short  tiled 
landings.  Looking  upward  from  below  the  quick  eye  notes 
that  stones  only  are  seen,  and  down  from  above,  that  the  stair 
looks  as  if  made  solely  of  tiles.  At  the  top  is  the  Mortuary 
Chapel  (O  Tamaya)  with  a  smaU  shrine  containing  a  hosatsu 
to  which  Hideyoshi  used  to  pray;  his  sculptured  and  seated 
image  when  he  was  62  (the  year  of  his  death)  is  seen  at  the 
right;  and  at  the  left  one  of  his  wife  (when  she  was  42)  in  the 
garb  of  a  nun.  Formerly  36  small  panels  of  the  36  most  cele- 
brated poets  who  lived  before  the  11th  cent.  —  the  work  of 
the  famous  Tosa  Mitsunohu  —  adorned  the  upper  part  of  this 
room,  but  they  were  stolen  in  Dec,  1911.  The  steps  which 
lead  up  to  the  reliquary,  and  which  depict  (in  gold  tracery) 
rafts  and  cherry  blossoms  floating  down  a  stream,  are  said 
to  rank  among  the  earliest  specimens  of  lacquer  made  in  Japan. 
—  Higher  up  at  the  right  of  the  O  Tamaya  is  a  little  house, 
constructed  by  one  of  Hideyoshi's  teachers,  containing  a  dainty 
little  chortuMna  (tea-room)  wherein  elaborate  cha^no-yu 
parties  were  held  formerly. — ^The  small  red,  two-storied  pagoda^ 
which  one  passes  on  emerging  from  the  temple  inclosure,  com- 
memorates the  soldiers  who  died  in  the  Japan-Russia  War. 
The  stone  monument  girdled  by  an  iron  fence  at  the  left  stands 
to  the  memory  of  those  who  fell  in  the  Japan-China  War.  The 
original  Kodai-ji  stood  here,  and  Uie  circular  atones  half  em- 
bedfded  in  the  earth  formea  part  of  the  foundation.  —  The 
noonday  gun  is  fired  from  the  Kodai-ji  compound.  —  The 
small  shops  which  face  the  roadway  hereabout  specialize  in 
the  cheap  pottery  called  Kodai-jv-yaki.  —  A  few  minutes' 
walk  to  the  S.  brings  one  to 

The  Yasaka  Pagoda  (PI.  E,  4),  a  tawdry,  5-storied  structure 
dating  from  1618  and  occup3ring  the  site  of  one  erected  in  1440 
and  said  to  have  been  the  first  of  its  kind  in  Japan.  Formerly 
it  served  as  a  watch-tower  whence  the  movements  of  troops 
were  observed.  A  wide  panorama  is  possible  from  the  upper 
story,  for  whosoever  is  willing  to  climb  to  it  through  the  cob- 
webs and  dust. '  It  has  been  so  mauled  by  the  hand  of  time  that 
the  four  Nyoraij  to  whom  it  is  dedicated,  are  not  worth  looking 
at.  Of  much  greater  interest  is  the  near-by  temple  described 
below. 

The  *Kiyomizu-dera  (PL,  E,  6)  a  nationally  celebrated  and 
greatly  venerated  Buddhist  temple  on  the  slope  of  Kiyomizu 
Hill  (or  Otowa'yama)j  in  the  S.E.  quarter  of  the  city,  oesides 
being  one  of  the  most  popular  of  the  metropolitan  fanes  (and 
in  point  of  picturesqueness  a  unique  ecclesiological  gem), 
raJQKs  as  one  of  the  25  places  sacred  to  Honen  Shonin^  «Av\\& 
16th  on  the  list  of  the  San-Ju-san  sho,  or  Thirty-tree  Te«i]^«& 
(p.  ccvi)  sacred  to  the  Goddess  Kwanwm,    Wb\Ve  t\ie  vwrm 
from  its  exalted  situation  are  beguiline  at  all  timea,  t3a»V.T«iiV^«c 
aaou/d  try  to  visit  it  in  Nov.  when  the  maples  axe  *m  VJiwea 


426    RojtU  27.  KYOTO      Kiyrnnitv-dera  Tflnjb. 


branch  of  the  Tendai  sect,  which  he  proceeded  to  teach  here. 
The  inatitution  has  ever  been  noted   for  ita  eclectidHm,  foe, 
in  addition  to  the  above,  the  tenets  of  both  the  Hosaa  and  tbe 
Shingon  sects  are  taught,  alon^  with  a  thin  veneer  of  certain 
of  the  more  modem  philosophical  systema  that  have  filtend 
Id  from  India,  China,  and  tbe  Weat.  The  narrow  and  irindins 
Kij/omisu-eoKa  that  leads  eastward  from  the  Kanwgamt  to  i 
it  (often  referred  to  by  foreigners  aa  'Tea-pot    L^e')i  li 
flanked  by  a  acore  or  more  small  shone  dedicated  to  tbe  aJt 
of  various  kickshaws  and  to  a  host  of  little  porcelain  and  pOV 
tery  objeota  classed  aa  Kiyomizu-yaki  (see  p.  cclvi).    Pilgritv 
buy  these  as  mementoes  of  the  place,  and  the  bargaia-huntin; 
toutiHt  will  often  find  pretty  Utile  souvenirs  among  the  multi- 
plicity of  things  expinedfoTsale.  The  brightly  colored  eartheo- 
ware  doUa  and  tea-pots,  the  blue-and-white  Kyoto-ware,  anJ 
the  Kiyomizu  faience  are  specialties  of  the  place  and  are  maik 
iu  the  neight)orhood.  —  At  the  top  of  the  incline,  beyond  tbe 
great  Bingle-storied  vermilion  gateway,  the  temple  bujldi^ 
are  seen  to  cluster  on  terraces  of  varying  heights,  near  t& 
tiriok  of  a  dee;}  ravine  filled  in  plaees  with  rank  vegetation  anit 
marked  here  and  there  by  sequestered  paths  and  pretty  te* 
houses.  To  defend  the  facade  of  the  temple  against  the  obnipt 
slope,  a  complicated  system  of  massive  piles  and  scaffoldioj 
has  been  employed  as  props,  with  numerous  great  tree-trunb 
that  serve  to  keep  it  level.  Though  dating  from  early  in  tbt  , 
I7th  cent,  the  structure  is  still  immensely  soUd  and  is  in  unco- 
lar  harmony  with  its  environment.  From  the  colossal  i^alcoDT  i 
which  seems  to  overhang  the  gorge  the  traveler  eojoys  one  of 
the  finest  prospects  imaginable.  The  rare  beauty  of  the  exteo-  I 
sive  view  so  affects  sentimental  natures  possessed  of  a  suicidil  i 
mania,  that  anciently  the  terrace  was  the  favorite  resort  ol  1 
those  an-vioua  to  exchanf^  a  mutable  and  fugitive  mundaiH  i 
existence  for  the  changeleas  serenity  of  death.    In  the  InU  ' 
autumn,  the  great  rift  in  the  scarred  side  of  Higaghi-yaMt  ( 
fairly  blaees  with  reddening  maples,  and  this  woDderful  wave  | 
of  color  is  augmented  artificially  by  violently  crimson  bkidwH  I 
which  the  proprietors  of  the  many  small  refreshment  stud) 
spread  out  on  their  rettt-platforma. 

Tbe  approach  to  the  temple  proper  is  part  and  parcel  of  its 
bizarre  attributes.  Two  big  bronze  Korean  lions,  of  a  pattern 
different  from  those  one  usually  sees  in  front  of  sbrinee,  ouid 
the  entrance  to  t\\e  (^onipovai4,"«tilp,t'KQ  immenBeand  fiaee- 
looidng  ^to  atandmt,\iwiiea?eot'Wft\awBBa\wssEi^iiS!aawJe- 
way.  PaasinK  between  t^iese  aagaa  ami  'Oquki^  'fca  ^^K<n4> 
we  come  tfalt)  ^  *  pVctwesq^e  o\i  camTjB.MAa-ikMj^K^ 


Kiyamizurdera  Temple.      KYOTO  iM^.  Route.    427 

bronze  bell  cast  in  1630.  Successive  flights  of  stone  steps  lead 
to  a  higher  level  where  a*  wheezy  old  three-storied  pagoda 
stands  mourning  for  its  past  grandeur.  There  are  several  non- 
descript buildings  here,  one  with  an  altar  containing  a  seated 
figure  of  Amida  with  his  faithful  Monju  and  Fugen,  and  a 
varied  assortment  of  old  relics,  too  much  like  junk  to  be  worth 
the  time  spent  in  looking  at  them.  The  terrace  is  flanked  bv  a 
stone  balustrade;  a  small  gate  at  the  left,  near  which  is  a  fine 
bronze  dragon  that  spouts  water  into  a  stone  trough,  admits 
one  to  a  dilapidated  colonnade  which  terminates  at 

The  Main  Temple  (53  ft.  high,  88  deep,  and  190  long). 
The  dingy  and  oppressively  overcrowded  hall  is  divided 
into  three  lateral  compartments,  the  two  inner  ones  called 
the  Naijiiij  and  Nai-naijin  (Holy  of  Holies).  Through  the 
screens  which  bar  the  latter  from  the  profaning  touch  of 
the  uitlander,  one  sees  three  tawdry  shrines  covered  with  the 
dust  of  years,  and  presided  over  by  scowling  Gods  of  the 
Four  Directions,  aided  by  a  whole  rogues'  gallery  of  ruffian 
deities.  These  fierce-loolang  but  inoffensive  gentry  form  the 
retinue  of  an  Eleven-faced,  Thousand-handed  Kwannon  con- 
cealed in  the  central  reliquarv  and  shown  once  only  in  33  3nps. 
Much  gayer  and  brighter  than  her  darksome  retreat,  and 
equally  untidy,  is  the  demonized  outer  room,  littered  up  with 
temple  furniture  and  adorned  with  faded  pictures  of  war 
scenes  on  land  and  sea,  famous  personages  and  no  less  famous 
horses.  The  wide,  sunlit  platform  called  hutai  ('stage')  is 
usually  the  most  thronged,  and  here  the  traveler  will  wish 
to  remain  to  drink  in  the  charm  of  the  fine  view  across  the 
gorge  to  the  city  spread  out  on  the  plain  below.  The  distant 
mountains  are  those  of  Kawachi  Province.  Should  the  visitor 
inspect  the  temple  on  Aug.  17,  he  may  witness  on  this  plat- 
form a  lively  festival  and  classical  concert  called  Rokusai 
NembutsUj  during  which  considerable  diubious  music  is  pro- 
duced by  persons  dressed  in  antique  costumes. 

By  continuing  along  the  platform  to  the  head  of  the  gorge 
one  passes,  at  the  left,  an  uninteresting  11-storied  stone  pagoda, 
and  a  near-by  shrine  called  Jishu-jinja,  or 'shrine  of  the  origi- 
nal owners  of  the  soil,'  i.e.,  the  primitive  Shinto  gods.   The 
first  structure  of  the  tier  beyond  is  the  tasteless  Skaka-do^  fol- 
lowed by  the  Amida-dd  with  a  big  gilt  image  of  this  divinity 
and  hundreds  of  tiny  ones  perched  on  the  mandorla  behina. 
The  interior  is  profusely  decorated,  the  most  conspicuous 
object  being  a  black  dragon  on  the  gilded  central  panel  of  the 
coffered  ceiling.    The  seated  wood  image  at  the  right  of  the 
entrance  is  the  unfortunate BiTizt^ru  (p.  ccviii)  whob^\:i«eii«K^ 
persistently  rubbed  by  credulous  persona  wilYibodWy  ocC^xsveoLVs^ 
that  It  has  been  necessary  to  glue  a  new  face  on  \jo  \i)wfe  "^Bowt 
?/d  bead.   Even  this  new  front  has  a  badly  fLat^jenedi  Ttf»»t 
od  a  repulsive,  leprous  expression.    Between  tVie  AvMord.o 


I 


428    Route  S7.  KYOTO 

and  the  adjacent  Oku-no-in  Ls  a  dilapidated  shed  beneath  « 

are  hucdrala  of  monkey-like,  Baddening  little  stone  images  6i 
the  benevolent  JUo  (p.  coiv);  women  with  aick  babies  pray 
fervently  to  them,  and  mothers  of  children  supposed  to  M 


» 


and  bits  have  ahpped  out  of  [jace,  and  the  former,  worn  over 
one  eye,  impart  a.  whimsical  look  to  the  idols. 

From  the  platform  in  front  of  the  uninteresting  Oku-^no-in 
one  looks  far  down  the  gojge  to  a  magnificent  pageant  of 
earth  and  sky.    A  comprohenaive  view  is  also  pmsiole  here 
of  the  splendid  old  roof  of  the  main  temple  with  its  graceful 
curves  and  harmonious  coloring.   Time  and  the  elements  have 
stained  the  closely  packed  shiaglt^  (of  hinohi  bark  in  the 
Shinto  style)  to  a  soft  velvety  purple  shading  to  dreKS-of- 
wine,  and  these  tones  melt  into  iheir  surroundings  as  if  nibbed 
there  by  some  titunici  hand.    The  two  partici>e!!  and  the  maze 
of  underpinning  are  also  seen  to  odvajitage  here,  though  a  bet- 
ter study  can  be  made  of  them  from  the  sloping  walk  to  the 
little  pool  under  the  brow  of  the  hill.    Admirers  of  the  human 
form  may  also  studj^  this  in  its  perfect  nudity  on  the  praying- 
atones  under  the  triple  streams  of  water  which  leap  out  of 
the  hillside  and  plash  to  the  shallow  basin.   Men  japanned  in 
the  buff  sometimes  stand  here  tor  30  min.  or  more,  with  the 
cold  water  pouring  over  their  uncovered  noddles,  supplicating 
[  the  deity  to  safeguard  some  loved  one,  or  to  favor  some  pet 
I  seheiae  in  which  they  are  involved.    The  stream  is  called 
V  Oiowa^no-iaM,  and  Is  supposed  to  be  surcharged  with  miiacu- 
I  lous  powers.  —    Many  stands  for  the  sale  ol  insipid  tea  and 
I  tasteless  cakes  are  scattered  through  the  ravine.   The  natives, 
I  who  sit  on  the  tiny  platforms  and  imbibe  the  national  bever- 
I  age,  or  saunter  through  the  avenues  of  crimsoned  maples, 
I  make  a  scene  at  once  typical  and  picturesque.  —  By  contin- 
1  uing  along  the  narrow  path  which  elopes  sharply  downward 
I  toward  the  W.  and  traveraea  an  extensive  graveyard,  one  will 
soon  pass  the  side  entrance  to 
The  Nishi  (East)  Otani  (PI,  E,  6),  a  somewhat  nondescript 
I  temple  scarcely  worth  devoting  much  time  to.    It  sharea  the 
I  distinction  of  possessing  a  kit   of  the  widely  distributed  re- 
I  mains  of  the  immortal  Skinran  Skonin.    His  tomb  has  been 
I  adroitly  commercialized,  and  a  believer,  on  the  eve  of  diasolu- 
upon  payment  of  a  suitable  ff«,  arrange  to  have  his 

beside  those  of  the  saint,  or  hjs  ashes  mixed  with 

I  them.  The  main  entrance  to  the  grounds  is  from  the  thorough- 
fare flanking  them  on  the  W.  TTie  pretty  lotus-pond  here  is 
spanned  by  an  arched  stone  bridge  called  megane-bashi,  from 
its  faaeiM  rfsomblance  to  Cbincae  ¥Wy^^-  *>*^  *  W^t 
moonlit  night,  when  the  aBmidtcuVw  o^iitQ'^  aic  t^uA^ 
Ja  the  water,  they  eeen  to  t««»  i»m.p\aWL  wt Aea,  ^\>-  b-^ 


The  Daibutsu.  KYOTO  ^7.  Rauie.    429 

sarre  effect.  —  The  main  gate,  an  elaborate  structure  blazing 
with  ydlow  metal  enrichments,  is  one  of  the  best  proportioned 
and  most  striking  in  Kydto.  The  sculptured  Patdawnia  im- 
perialis  affixed  to  the  slatted  panels  of  the  huge^  iron-embossed 
doors,  and  the  five  white  lines  on  the  encirclmg  wall,  attest 
the  Imperial  favor.  The  great  uprights  are  set  in  handsome 
chased  bronze  sockets,  and  many  metal  adornments  add  to 
the  appearance  of  the  sunken  panels  of  the  coffered  ceiling. 
The  doublenaized  carved  wood  panel  over  the  center  be^m, 
showing  cranes  in  the  act  of  rising  from  the  water,  is  excellently 
done.  The  bizarre  edifice  inside  the  gate  at  the  left  (the 
Taiko-dd)j  with  a  superstructure  displaying  boldly  chiseled 
chrysanthemums  in  low  relief,  is  a  sort  of  prison  (it  looks  more 
like  a  daintily  sculptured  boudoir)  where  fractious  priests  are 
incarcerated  and  made  to  do  penance  by  beating  a  drum 
(taiko).  The  lower  floor  is  used  as  an  office. 

At  the  right  of  the  main  temple,  which  stands  just  beyond 
the  gateway,  is  a  bronze  lotus-and-dragon  fountain  of  good 
design;  the  two  tall  bronze  lanterns  near  by  are  also  worth 
looking  at.  The  numerous  brass  embellishments  of  the  temple, 
and  the  brass  sockets  in  which  the  beam-ends  are  sheathed, 
impart  a  lively  look  to  it.  The  interior  is  chaste  though  rich: 
the  most  striking  objects  are  five  excellently  carved  and  gildea 
wood  panels,  in  open-work  design,  showing  foliated  lotus  in 
high  relief.  They  serve  as  a  frieze  to  the  opulent  altar,  a  maze 
of  gold  foil  and  polychrome  decorations  amidst  which  is  an 
old  gold  statue  of  Amida.  The  kakemonos  against  the  gleam- 
ing yellow  background  of  the  sanctum  commemorate  various 
notables.  —  At  the  rear  of  the  temple,  at  the  top  of  a  spacious 
gravelled  yard,  is  another  fane,  with  an  equally  rich  interior. 
Skinran  Shonin^s  tomb  at  the  rear  is  not  shown. 

The  Daibutsu,  or  Great  Buddha  (PI.  E,  5),  a  gilded  mon- 
strosity^ not  worth  looking  at,  occupies  a  tawdiy  shed  N.  of  the 
Impenal  Museum,  near  the  Daibutsumae  Station  of  the  Osaka 
electric  trolley  (S.E.  of  the  Gojo  Bridge),  on  the  site  of  the 
original  bronze  Buddha  erected  by  Toyotomi  Hideyoshi  in 
1588y  and  wrecked  by  a  great  earthquake  in  1596.   It  is  made 
of  lumber  covered  with  gold  foil  and  liu*id  paint,  and  is  in  the 
form  of  a  colossal  head  and  shoulders  58  ft.  high  with  an  ugly 
face  30  ft.  long.    History  records  that  the  ambitious  Taiko 
planned  to  erect  a  daibutsu  that  would  exceed  in  grandeur  the 
justly  celebrated  one  at  Kamakura,  but  a  malevolent  fate 
thwarted  the  enterprise.   After  the  destruction  of  the  original 
image,  a  second  huge  figure  was  completed  up  to  the  neck,  but 
as  the  hundred  or  more  artisans  were  at  work  ca&tm^^XvbtkfiA^ 
(in  Jan.,  1603)  the  scaffoldiDg  accidentally  took.  £ttft  mv\  'waa 
ieatroyed,  along  with  the  splendid  temple  w\ttc\i  va^doefidt  \V 
7irorts  were  made  in  1608  to  repair  the  ftgore,  on^  Vn  \^» 
w  work  was  completed  only  to  be  later  deBtxoAj^i.  " 


Route  S7.  KYOTO 


E 

^Hlie  present  ungainly  error  dates  from  1801;  the  adi__ 

^Hee  01  5  sen  admita  one  also  to  the  little  museum  at  the 

H&here  one  fluds  aasembled  a  fen  worthless  relics,  amnng  them 

^b  black  statuette  of  Fudo  whJch  Huleyoski  ia  said  to  have 

Veatried  about  with  bim  as  a  mascot-  The  ISOhan^ng  pictuiei 

of  Ktwjnnon  are  without  merit. 


daSm 
-The     J 


about  i  the  size)  of  the  big  bell  of  Osaka  and  was  caat 
1614  by  the  order  of  Uideuoski.    Ita  splendidly  deep  and 

Doroua  voice  can  be  heard  all  over  the  neighborhood.  — ' 

Hokoji  Temfie  at  the  right  contains  a  striking  pit  6gure  of 
Amida  with  a  fine  mandorla  embellished  with  figunDos.  The 
email  Hdkohu  shrine  (or  Toi/okuni-jinska)  in  the  yard  at  the  left 
is  dedicated  to  Hideyoahi,  who  is  worshiped  as  a  divinity.  The 
Armstrong  machine-gtic  and  the  larger  one  near  it  are  relics  of 
the  China-Japan  War.  High  up  the  hill  behind  the  shrine,  at 
the  top  of  an  almost  interminable  flight  of  steps,  on  a  spot 
called  Ainida-ga-mine,  is  Hidejfoski^t  grave,  siuinounted  by  a 
sranite  monument  (37  ft.  high)  erected  in  1898.  Opposite  tlie 
front  entrance  bo  the  shrine  inclosure,  is  a  low  mound  sur- 
mounted by  a  six-piece  granite  monument  shaped  like  a 
tMoba.  Within  this  Ear  Hound  {mimi-xuka),  or  Nose  Mound 
\haiia-ruka)  repose  (so  it  is  said)  the  forty  or  more  thousand 
piakled  ears  and  noses  of  Koreans  and  Chinese  alaughl«red  in 
Korea,  during  Hideyoski's  campaign  of  1592-9S. 

The  'Kyoto  Imperial  Art  Museum  ( Hakubuti't-kioan) ,  open 
daily  from  8  to  5  in  summer  and  from  9  to  4  in  wint«r  (ticket- 
office,  at  the  rear,  closes  J  hr.  earlier;  admissioa,  3  sen,'  no 
additional  fees  necessary) :  with  nearly  a  score  of  rooms  in  an 
attractive  new  building  (opened  in  1897  and  maintained  by 
ike  Imperial  Household  Department]  well  back  from  the  street 
(PI.  D,  5)  amid  spacious  grounds,  houses  a  collection  of  an- 
tiques, rather  than  modem  art  works,  and  though  less  extenave 
than  the  superb  museum  at  TskyO  (to  which  it  ranks  2d)  it  is 
well  worth  a  visit.  It  is  doubtful  if  any  other  Japanese  museum 
(excepting  perhaps  that  of  Nara)  contains  so  uniquely  valuable 
and  important  a  collection  of  authentic  sculptured  wood  statu- 
ary of  the  fruitful  8th  and  12tli  centuries.  These  now  price- 
less relics  of  an  early  art  which  the  Japanese  carried  to  such 
a  noteworthy  degree  of  excellence  are  of  sustained  inteKat 
to  admirers  of  this  special  craft,  as  well  as  to  lovers  of  the  ouri- 
OUB  in  history.  The  museum  ia  divided  into  three  general 
departments:  History,  Fine  Arts,  and  Art  Industry.  As  mai^ 
of  the  exhibits  (most  of  which  are  helpfully  classified  '•"  " — 
lish  and  Japanese)  are  loaned  temporarily  by 
viduals,  and  as  those  owned  by  tbe  nation 
national  treasures  are  transferred  from  time  to  time  to 
jDUseumB  or  rdiquariea  bo  th&t  the  greater  number  mas 


AH  Museum.  KYOTO  £7.  Bouie,    431 

tiiem,  no  attempt  will  be  made  here  to  classify  them  in  their 
existing  order  of  location,  nor  yet  to  overcome  the  -manifest 
iifficulty  of  singling  out  a  long  list  of  objects  which  may  or 
nay  not  prove  of  great  value  or  interest  to  me  average  stranger. 
Amateurs  desiring  photographs  of  present  and  past  exhibits  ' 
nay  be  interested  in  the  collot3rpe  pictures  sold  by  the  manage- 
nent  at  5  sen  each. 

In  the  yard  flanking  the  main  path  are  a  number  of  minor 
relics,  among  them  three  huge  bronze  figures  (from  China) 
)f  the  Chinese  gods  Ten-kwarif  Chv-^^wan.  and  Sui^Kwan 
(and  ten  other  gUded  bronze  images  of  similar  origin  and  im- 
port). In  the  Middle  Room  will  be  found  a  wonderful  array 
3f  admirable  wood  sculptures  dating  from  the  Nara  epoch 
(708-81);  others  of  the  Fujiwara  epoch  (888-1155).  and  some 
3xcellent  work  of  the  early  Tokugavxi  period  —  wnich  lasted 
From  1612  to  1867.  Some  of  the  best  of  the  earliest  work  — 
Etn  epitome  as  well  as  a  highly  interesting  record  of  those 
long  dead  days  —  is  attributed  (no  doubt  unwarrantedly) 
bo  Koho-Daishi  (p.  cxxvi);  other  pieces,  dating  from  the,  11th 
sent.,  to  Eahin  Sozu;  and  not  a  few  of  the  13th-cent.  sculptures 
bo  the  renowned  Jokei.  Especially  interesting  to  the  amateur 
^ho  has  steeped  himself  in  the  history  of  this  fascinating  art 
are  certain  of  the  productions  to  be  found  in  an  adjoining 
room,  where  there  are  some  special  values  handed  down  to 
posterity  by  the  inimitable  Unkei  working  in  his  best  mood. 
Here  one  is  often  amazed  at  the  rare  excellence  attained  in  this 
subtle  handicraft  during  the  period  in  which  this  master  lived. 
Some  of  the  figures,  15  or  more  feet  high,  are  of  an  astounding 
vigor  and  crispness,  and  are  worthy  to  rank  with  contemporary 
art  in  any  land.  His  giant  Jikoku-ten,  owned  by  the  Tofuku-ji. 
and  its  companion  KwomokvAeny  are  extraordinarily  well 
executed,  and  they  rank,  in  point  of  worth,  with  the  equally 
large  and  expressive  figures  of  Kongo^Rikishi,  Unkei  has  a 
number  of  masterpieces  here,  sprinkled  among  which  are  seve- 
ral copies  of  his  originals,  cunningly  fashion^  by  the  modern 
sculptors  of  the  Nara  workshop  mentioned  under  Nara. 
It  is  very  likely  that  he  never  touched  many  of  the  pieces 
ascribed  to  him  here  and  in  other  places  throughout  the  Em- 
pire, for  to  this  practical,  skillful,  and  diligent  iElsthete  more 
sculptures  are  attributed  in  Japan  alone  than  he  could  have 
carved  in  ten  ordinary  lifetimes.  Conmionplace  wood-carv- 
ings are  ignorantly  saddled  upon  him  with  the  same  careless- 
ness that  shady  jokes  are  ascribed  to  the  immortal  Abraham 
Lincoln^  and  almost  every  bedeviled  little  one-horse  temple  in 
Japan  has  some  piece  of  iunk  forged  with  his  name.  ^ 

Admirers  of  Unkei  and  his  masterly  work  will  return  time 
and  time  again  to  a  certain  big  glass  case  here  containing 
a  marvelously  executed  inoage  of  the  sculptor  himself,  oaxv^ 
by  his  own  hands.  The  skirted  h^ir^  is  seated  and  al^o^i^  UoTfiL 


432    Route  27.  KYOTO  Art  AfiMetim. 

the  waist  up;  the  drapery  is  vermiculated  and  blackened  with 
the  smoke  and  incense  of  near  a  thousand  years.    The  old 
head  is  as  bald  as  an  egg,  with  a  ridge  along  the  top,  and  in  his 
wrinkled  hands  he  holds  not  a  chisel  but  a  rosary.   Even  the 
glass  eyes  fail  to  mar  the  naturalness  of  his  homely  face  or  to 
destroy  its  good-natiu^d  expression.   The  figure  at  his  left  is 
one  wnich  Tankei  (a  13th-cent.  sculptor)  carved  of  himself; 
the  Seiso-Monju  bosatsu  at  the  rear  is  ascribed  to  Kobo- 
Daishi,  and  is  supposed  to  have  been  carved  shortly  before 
his  death.    Back  of  this  case  is  a  smaller  one  containing  a 
squatting  figure  of  the  priest  SaigyOj  carved  by  himself  in 
1198;  and  at  the  left  a  rather  striking  image  of  Minamoto- 
no-YorimcLsa,  in  priestly  robes.   The  great   Taira  chieftain 
Kiyomori  is  also  preserved  here  in  apparently  imperishable 
wood,  and  hard  by  is  a  collection  of  colored  masks  which  run 
the  gamut  of  human  emotions  in  their  bizarre  facial  expres- 
sions.   Many  of  the  other  statues  are  of  unquestioned  anti- 
quity, and  nearly  all  of  them  are  lively  illustrations  of  a  fine 
art  for  which  the  Japanese  have  a  true  passion.  The  image  of 
Raisin,  the  Thunder-God,  owned  by  the    Kennin-ji  and 
carved  by  Tawaraya  Sotatsu  (17th  cent.),  is  a  terrif3dng  com- 
position; quite  in  contrast  to  the  huge  Amidor- Nyorai  (in  the 
middle  room),  whose  fine  calm  face  is  a  picture  of  detached 
composure.   The  latter  is  the  work  of  Eshin-Sozut  and  dates 
from  the  11th  cent. 

The  Imperial  Treasures  comprise  some  wonderful  bits 
of  old  gold-laccjuer,  bronzes,  swords,  embroideries,  kakemonoSf 
some  caligraphic  relics  of  celebrated  men,  and  a  collection  of 
exquisite  ceramics,  certain  of  them  so  old  and  dating  from  a 
period  so  remote  that  the  influence  of  mayhap  the  first  Korean 
potters  who  came  to  Japan  in  the  7th  cent,  are  discernible 
on  them.  There  is  an  almost  interminable  array  of  old  armor 
and  weapons,  along  with  a  model  of  a  metal-  and  bamboo- 
sheathed  sailing-craft  built  in  1855,  historical  documents  re- 
ferring to  the  assault  on  the  British  Minister  at  Ky6to  in 
1867,  a  nimiber  of  odd  relics  from  Turkestan,  a  host  of  old 
Chinese  and  native  embroideries,  a  collection  of  musical  instru- 
ments, one  of  coins  with  some  Confederate  bills,  a  number  of 
great   festival   drums,    some   palanquins,    inlaid   madreperl 
work,  and  so  on.  The  elaborate  palanquin  used  in  the  funeral 
procession  of  the  Emperor  Mutsuhito  is  modem.  Of  interest  to 
the  Japanologist,  but  even  more  to  the  Japanese^  is  the  collec- 
tion of  classic^  kakemonos  J  makemonos,  and  illununated  screens 
and  manuscripts,  each  of  which  has  its  special  historical  value 
from  the  native  point  of  view.  The  very  handsome  iUuminated 
BuddMatsutrdsrecsXi  siimiai'WOTkm^fia  UbTaxy  of  Uie  British 
Museum.  The  gorgeous  mandatos  «c^  'SRQT^iJcLVi'^Ti|^,%s^^^ 
as  the  wall-pictures  o!  SKaka  mA  >i3aa  Ra\wm.  ^^o^  ««nr 
panion  kakemonos  of  Shaica,  Monja,  aM  F^^^  ^\ft\x«ai.^ 


AH  Museum.  KYOTO  S7:^  Bouie,    438 

Ashikaga  period  (1334-^1578).  A  gray  monotone  kcikemono 
(loaned  by  the  Ryoarirji  of  Kyoto)  painted  in  1559  by  iJie  re* 
nowned  Kand  MoUmdbu,  and  entitled  'A  Religious  Discussion 
about  a  Waterpot/  is  quite  curious.  The  Ashikaga  work  is 
superbly  done  in  rich  brownish  green  and  gold:  the  middle 
panel  shows  the  divine  Shaka  radiating  a  halo  of  glorious  light- 
beams  from  a  heaven  of  sunshiny  luminosity,  with  Monju 
below  at  his  left,  also  in  gold,  seated  on  a  Uon,  and  Fttgen  also 
below,  at  his  right,  in  white,  seated  on  a  white  elephant  re- 
gally caparisoned.  The  twin  kakemonos  at  the  siae  (owned 
by  the  Kaijiisan-ji  of  Kyoto),  conspicuous  for  their  exquisite 
tones,  are  the  16  RaJcan,  Shaka  and  his  faithful  adherents 
are  represented  again  in  another  wall-case,  in  a  startlingly  real- 
istic and  inspiring  way;  the  colors  of  this  conception  are  har- 
monious browns,  and  the  work  is  also  of  the  Ashikaga  period. 
The  three  kakemonos  are  owned  by  the  Sokerwin,  of  Kyoto,  and 
they  may  easily  be  classed  among  the  finest  in  the  museum.  In 
one  case  there  is  a  superb  Jizo  bosatsu  (the  property  of  the 
Shoho-ji  of  Kyoto),  so  admirably  done  as  to  recall  certain  of 
Rembrandt^ s  work.  Near  it  is  a  beautiful  and  graceful  composi- 
tion loaned  by  the  Kosho-ji,  showing  lotus  flowers  in  the  wind. 
In  the  same  case  with  this  is  a  kakenwno  (by  Ganseki,  a  Chinese 
artist  of  the  Ming  period  — 1368  -1616,  and  owned  by  the 
Shoden-ji)  of  a  bizarre  tiger  licking  his  paw  —  considered  by 
the  Japanese  an  adorable  masterpiece.  Near  the  two  ugly 
screens  (by  Kano  Tsunenobu,  m  1713),  showing  water- 
buffalo,  is  a  strikingly  artistic  kakemono  of  Miroku  bosatsu, 
painted  by  the  Princess  Mitsuki  (about  1727),  and  loaned 
the  Rinkyu-ji,  of  Kyoto.  So  fascinating  is  much  of  this 
ancient  work  to  the  Japanese  that  eager  copyists  may  nearly 
always  be  seen  busily  tracing  off  the  scenes  —  perchance  later 
to  reproduce  them  and  unload  them  (as  originals)  at  a  big 
figure  on  trustful  antiquaries! 

There  is  little  worth  seeing  in  the  inmiediate  vicinity  of  the 
museum,  save,  perhaps,  the  San-ju^san-gen-do,  and  this  can 
easily  be  eliminated  if  the  traveler  is  pressed  for  time.  The 
Diabutsu  is  too  contemptible  to  waste  time  on  unless  this 
hangs  heavily  on  one's  hands.  At  the  S.E.  comer  of  the 
museum  grounds,  standing  far  back  in  its  own  yard,  is  the 
ChishakU'iUy  a  small  Buddhist  temple  built  in  1601  of  the 
ruins  of  a  celebrated  fane  known  as  the  Negoro-ji,  in  Negoro 
village,  Kii  Province.  The  original  temple  was  founded  by 
the  bonze  Kakuhan  in  1130;  it  belonged  to  the  Shingi  branch 
of  the  Shingon  sect,  and  under  the  Ashikaga  shoguns,  it  became 
so  prosperous  that  at  one  time  it  had  as  many  as  ZlQf^  \skssst 
dependencies,  each  of  which  supported  a  Bmaji  axni^  ol  %oh«i» 
or  mercenajiea  maintained  by  the  priests  to  pTO\jecAi  >utkssa  xfer 
eipective  domains  and  to  fight  rival  Becta.  T\ifififc  s^^Av*^ 
Imcklers  caused  so  much  trouble  in  the  proviace  toait  Tatt«*fl««''^ 


I 


'  434    Route  27.  KYOTO 

Hukyoiki  besieged,  aad  pra-ctically  destroyed,  the  n 

pie  (in  1585},  wbovupon  bhe  defeated  bontes  migrated  ft 
Kyoto  with  what  remaned  of  their  splendid  hea(U]uartera. 
The  present  building  belongs  to  the  Teruiai  sect  and  contains 
a  number  of  traahy  relics  (admiasion.  5  sen)  of  little  interest 
to  foreignere.  The  dim  old  acreena  visible  from  the  entrancfl 
are  indicative  of  what  lies  beyond.  The  one-time  pretty  gardeo 
has  been  so  neglected  that  it  is  no  lonecr  attractive.  — ^K- 
agonally  opposite  the  rear  entrance  to  tne  muaeum,  on  a  tet- 
race  reached  by  a  abort  flight  of  steps,  stands 
The  UyOhft-in,  a  small  Buddhist  temple  dating  from  1158 


SiKika  with  diamond  eyes.  Anciently  of  considerable  import- 
ance the  institution  has  degeaerated  into  a  sort  of  tawdr; 
ecclesiastical  museum  adorned  with  strong  colors,  with  a  regu- 
lation box-office  (admission,  5  sen),  and  a  faded  old  lacquered 
palanquin  (used  by  the  Bm-peror  Kokakti,  who  died  in  1S40) 
ingenuously  set  out  in  view  as  a  teaser.  Among  the  eithibila 
of  more  or  less  doubtful  paternity  are  a  number  of  relics  oT 
Toyotomi  Hideyoahi.  Cor»pjcuoua  among  them  is  an  old 
Korean  hat,  amulet,  and  jar  brought  by  his  soldiers  on  thoir 
return  from  the  momentous  invasion  of  Korea  —  the  jar  oo 
doubt  filled  with  pickled  Korean  ears  and  noses.  Curioiu 
among  the  sculptured  wood  images  is  that  of  the  erratic  priest 
Kiya  Skmin  (b.  903;  d.  972),  who  is  customarily  pictured 
with  a  staff  in  one  hand,  a  hammer  in  the  other,  a  bronze  gong 
at  his  girdle,  and  twin  wirca  (on  which  ux  tiny  Buddhas  n^ 

Erotrudiac  from  his  mouth.  He  resembles  a  wild-eyed,  dis- 
Bveled  faldr,  but  his  memory  is  revered  as  that  of  a  great  and 
miraculous  healer,  for  in  951,  when  a  great  epidemic  ravaged 
the  district,  KHya  (or  KoshS  as  he  is  sometimes  called)  carved 
a  large  statue  of  Kivannon  with  eleven  faces,  placed  it  on  a 
chair,  carried  it  about  the  city,  and  exhorted  tfae  scourge  to 
disappear  —  which  according  to  tradition  it  didi    KUya  was 


^H  d „„,_ 

^^^1  something  of  a  utilitarian  as  weil  as  a  religious  enUiugiast, 
^^^1  for  in  his  wanderinpi  and  teachings  of  the  doctrines  of  Buddha, 
^^^B  he  built  bridges,  dug  wells,  opejied  up  roads,  and  did  much 
^^^1  work  of  a  similar  nature.  —  Few  of  the  weather-beaten  sculp- 
^^^M  tured  images,  screens,  or  ancestral  tablets,  are  worth  looking 
^^H  at;  the  old  panels  of  bamboos,  chrysanthemums,  and  other 
^^H  Bowers  are  ascribed  to  Kano  Eiloku.  The  two  black-and- 
^^m  whi1«  dragon-and-tiger  kakemonos  are  (perhaps)  by  SesehH. 
^H  Many  illuminated  sutraa  and  smaller  objects  are  displayed  in 
^V  the  wall-cases  or  hung  on  the  walls.  The  floors  of  the  corri- 
dors  are  of  the   'nightingsJe'  type.  —  The  Hiyoshi^nja,  a 

Shinto  flhrine  at  the  end  ot  die  ^&\\i.  «\i  sS-  "iXie  ■ri^'s.  lA  \iift 

AfyBke-in,  19  unintereating. 


San^H^sanrffenrdd.  EYOTO  i^.  RmiU.    435 

formerly  as  the  Renge^-o4n,  and  now  as  the  Temple  of  the 
33,333  images,  is  2  min.  walk  S.  of  the  ImperisJ  Museum 
(PL  D,  5) ;  18  celebrated  for  its  Thousand  and  One  Statues  of 
the  Goddess  Kwanrum,  and  derives  its  name  from  the  two  mas- 
sive interior  roof-beams  each  33  ken  long.  The  weather-beaten, 
bam-like  structure  (property  of  the  Tmdai  sect  of  Buddhists) 
is  53  ft.  wide  by  nearly  400  ft.  long;  has  a  6-ft.  platform  run- 
ning quite  around  it,  and  is  divided  into  35  spaces  delimned 
by  36  upright  columns  sheathed  in  rusted  iron,  with  5  spaces 
at  each  end.  It  stands  on  a  slightly  elevated  terrace  in  the 
center  of  a  wide  open  space,  on  the  site  of  a  structure  founded 
in  ll32  by  the  Emperor  Toha  —  whose  extravagances  helped 
to  precipitate  the  great  war  for  political  supremacy  between 
the  Taira  and  the  Minamoto  clans.  When  the  old  building 
burned  in  1249,  the  2002  images  it  is  said  to  have  contained, 

Cerished  with  it,  but  in  1266  the  Emperor  Kameyama  assem- 
led  1001  new  figures  and  housed  them  in  the  present  building 
—  which  was  practically  reconstructed  by  the  4th  TokugauHi 
shoffuut  letsuna,  in  1662.  The  numerous  pits  and  slits  in  the 
beams  of  the  back  platform  are  relics  of  a  time  when  the 

Eriests  in  charge  were  fond  of  archery  and  used  to  practice 
ere  —  the  aim  being  to  shoot  an  arrow  from  one  end  of  the 
structure  to  the  other. 

The  visitor  pays  5  sen  at  the  ticket-office  at  the  main  door 
(E.,  center),  turns  to  the  right,  makes  the  complete  inner  cir- 
cuit, and  comes  out  by  the  same  door.  The  huge  central  %ure 
in  tiie  vast  room  is  a  noteworthy  seated  image  (carved  by 
Kokei)  of  the  Senju  ('thousand  hands')  Kwannon  (8  ft.  high), 
backed  by  an  immense  pierced  and  gilded  mandorla,  studded 
with  figurines  of  the  same  divinity  and  forming  a  sort  of  glit- 
tering canopy.  A  number  of  smaller  heads  surmount  the  big 
one;  guardian  demons  stand  at  the  right  and  left;  numerous 
altar  fitments  cluster  in  front,  and  here  a  shaven-pated  priest 
sits  and  drones  the  sacred  ritual.  Up  and  down  the  inclosure, 
at  the  right  and  left  of  this  altar,  are  ten  tiers  with  50  figures 
each  of  the  same  Eleven-faced,  Thousand-handed  Kwannon^ 
in  phalanxes  which  rise  one  behind  the  other.  They  form  a 
tawdry,  dusty,  senseless  throng,  do  these  slim  divinities  in 
gilded  armor,  each  5  ft.  high,  some  maimed  and  tottering,  and 
all  silent  relics  of  a  curious  past.  A  third  or  more  are  attributed 
to  Kokei  (father  to  the  greater  Unkei),  200  to  Unkei  himself 
(undoubtedly  a  gross  exaggeration),  and  the  remainder  to  less 
famous  sculptors.  All  are  surmoimted  by  scores  of  tiny  ones, 
like  fruit  on  a  tree,  and  these,  counted  with  the  larger  ones, 
total  (it  is  said)  33,333.  Some  stand  with  hands  c\a&^ii\  \^Ksbk 
to  palm,  and  over  the  upright  thumbs  small  iOBan«B>aaN^r>Q««DL 
£un^.  Others  hold  in  their  multitude  oi  xmcroacopvi  YMNcAa 
Buddhist  symbols  —  the  Wheel  of  the  Law,  a  \o\WkB  ^QW«t>  m. 
cbamond,  and  the  Uke.  Each  is  said  to  differ  di^XX"^  IxciEa^^ 


436     Route  27.  KYOTO 

neJKhbor,  and  each  is  eo  old  and  decrepit,  with  so  many  h 
and  arniH  to  faU  o5,  that  the  weaKened  old  carpenter  wh( 
On  hie  little  work-bench  at  the  rear  of  the  gallery  is  kept  bus; 
repairing  them.  Near  his  dusty  little  cubby-hole  are  a  few 
indifferent  statues  of  various  deities  ignorantly  ascribed  to 
Vnkei,  and  a  sharp-eyed  priest  who  begs  sturdily  for  contri- 
butions toward  the  upkeep  of  the  establishment. 

The  T6fuku-ji,  a  Buddhist  temple  (PI.  E,  6)  of  the  Zen 
sect,  in  the  S.E.  quarter  not  far  from  the  museum  (descend 
from  the  trsm-ear  at  T5faku-ji  Siaiion),  on  the  site  of  a  tflmple 
erected  between  1246  and  1256  by  KvJH  Machiie  and  iiele- 
brated  then  as  the  most  beautiful  temple  in  Kyoto,  is  now  but 
a  faded  remnant  of  former  grandeur.  The  great  liaibuisu  (50 
ft.  high),  whii;h  onue  was  a  featiu^  of  it,  was  destroyed  by  the 
fire  which  burned  the  temple  and  most  of  ite  outbuildings  in 
1881,  and  only  the  big  gateway  at  the  S.E.  side  and  the  few 
detached  edinces  cluetering  near  it  remain  of  the  original 
structures.  Many  minor  gates  and  a  lab3Tinth  of  paths  mark 
the  extensive  grounds,  the  chief  charm  of  which  is  a  small 
ravine  choked  with  maples  that  are  a  flamboyant  glory  in  ths 
late  autumn.  The  neighborhood  through  which  one  must  pass 
to  reach  the  temple  ia  not  celebrated  for  the  pulchritude  of  its 
inhabitants,  who  seem  to  rely  upon  miracles  for  doing  the 
work  of  soap,  A  number  of  porcet^n  factories  flank  the  river, 
in  the  shallow  bed  of  which  men  and  women  wash  newly  dyed 
cloths  which  they  later  spread  out  on  the  sand-spits  to  dry; 
or  sift  fine  sand  into  barrels  for  use  in  the  earthenware  manu- 
factories. 

Spanning  the  ravine  (through  which  a  laughing  broolc 
meanders]  is  a  long  covered  portico  with  the  grandilouuent 
name  'Bridge  of  Heaven  '  (isS-few-tyo),  where acorea  of  ICy5to 

Kople  rally  in  the  fall  to  enjoy  the  reddening  maple  leaves. 
cnickers  descend  to  the  sinsdl  platforms  below,  where  tea 
and  other  goodies  are  served  to  the  eound  of  tinkling  water  and 
thrummed  samisen.    A  specialty  of  the  spot  is  tue  grafting 
t  of  maples  upon  other  trees  —  chiefly  those  whose  rich  tints 
I  enhance  the  momiji's  charm.   At  the  left  of  the  ravine  (which 
I  ia  on  the  N.  side  of  the  inuloeure)  is  a  branching  corridor  that 
I  leads  to  the  quaint  Kaisan-dS,  a  unique  structure  with  an  ex- 
I  traordinary  roof,  an  environing  garden  containing  a  lotus- 
}  pool  flanked  by  fantastic  pines,  and  a  stretch  of  smooth  sand 
on  whose  surface  geometrical  designs  are  drawn  with  o.  sharp 
[  *tick  —  a,  practice  common  in  the  temple  gardens  in  Kyoto, 
The  new  temple  beyond  the  gorge  is  an  odd  blend  of  BuddluHt 
And  ShintS  architecture,  wilh  a  shingled  porch  and  a  tiled 
I    foof.    In  the  adjacent  pretty  etirine  are  some  ^lea^ne  kakr- 
I  mono  of  the  Five  Hundred  Rnloan,  \i^  CKu  Db-hsu.  ra  Mi-nAa 
Hia  (me  name),  who  lived  bis  Voivft  W*  V\Wa-\'aV'W  ^ 


InmShnne.  KYOTO  f7.  BauiB.    437 

temple,  is  an  imm^iBe  (24  by  48  ft.)  i»oture  (painted  in  1408) 
depicting  Buddha's  Entry  into  Nirvana  (Neh/cuv-zo).  It  is 
shown  only  on  the  14th,  15th,  and  16th  of  March,  in  one  of 
the  wide  halls,  where  it  is  hoisted  against  the  wall  and  viewed 
by  the  hundreds  of  pilgrims  who  foregather  from  distant  parts 
to  see  it.  A  work  of  equal  merit,  which  the  traveler  who  in- 
gratiates himself  with  the  priest  in  charge  may  see,  is  an  im- 
mense painted  Kwannon  seated  on  a  rock  against  which  waves 
are  breaking,  in  the  midst  of  surging  clouds.  The  drawing 
shows  Densu  in  one  of  his  best  moods  (that  of  the  skillful  artist 
who  knows  himself  and  accomplishes  his  work  with  simplicity 
and  speed)  and  the  white  body-color  contrasted  with  the 
background  gives  it  the  decorative  beauty  of  a  fine  tapestry. 
—  The  older  Duildings  of  the  compound  —  which  reminds  one 
of  a  great  tree-dotted  campus  —  contain  neglected  images  of 
divinities  not  worth  looking  at. 

A  15  min.  walk  N.E.  of  the  temple  (take  the  road  at  the 
N,  or  S.  of  the  inclosure)  brings  one  to  the  dilapidated  Sen>^ 
yu-ji,  said  to  have  been  founded  by  Koho-Daishi  in  the  9th 
cent.  It  became  the  burying-ground  of  the  Mikados  in  1242. 
and  many  mouldering  tombs  surround  it.  In  the  depleted 
reliquary  is  a  tooth  said  to  have  been  brought  from  China 
in  the  7th  cent,  by  the  famous  Fujiwara  Fuhito,  and  to  have 
formed  a  segment  of  Buddha's  masticatory  apparatus  when 
he  was  on  earth.  About  i  M.  S.  of  Tofuku-ji  stands  the  Inari 
Shrine  described  below. 

The  Shinto  Shrine  of  Inari  (Chinese:  *  rice-bearing'),  or 
Inari  no  Yashiro  (PI.  D,  6),  one  of  the  most  important  and 
popular  of  the  Kyoto  shrmes  (in  the  S.E.  suburb  4  M.  from  the 
Miyako  Hotel;  tram-car  in  1  hr. ;  fare,  10  sen;  or  by  rly .  from 
the  Kyoto  Station  in  6  min.),  is  the  prototype  of  hundreds  of 
similar  shrines  scattered  throughout  Japan.  It  stands  on  the 
slope  of  a  hill  (Inari-yama)  where  Uga  no  mitama,^  the  God- 
dess of  Cereals  (to  whom  it  is  dedicated),  first  appeared  to  the 
Japanese.  In  the  minds  of  many  covetous  and  credulous  folks, 
the  shrine  is  a  dispenser  of  wealth  (since  rice  has  at  all  times 
represented  wealth  in  Japan),  and  hither  repair  throngs  of 
impecunious  bumpkins  who  toss  coins  valued  at  ^  of  one  sen 
into  the  capacious  contribution-box,  thenprfy  lustily  for  the 
fattest  prize  in  the  goddess's  exchequer.  As  In/ari  is  also  the 
tutelar  of  cutlers  and  swordsmiths  (having  once  assisted  the 
celebrated  Kokaji  to  forge  certain  of  his  famous  blades),  hither 
also  come  an  army  of  metalmen,  all  eager  to  invest  a  sen 
and  learn  the  secret  of  transmuting  pot-metal  into  hair-split- 
ting cutlery.    Pilgrims,  who  foregather  here  from  all  i^dx^a^ 

1  The  Goddess  of  Cereals,  the  supposed  daughter  oi  t^e  TIi-v>i^Ck!(A!OS&nB^ 


488    Jiiiii^  n.  SFOTO  InmiSkMi. 

imMOy' cany  borne  iritfa  them  db  talismaaic  aide  to  boimteoiai 
harvests^  ooeor  mora  iA  the  earthenware  figurines  (oi^ed 
Futkiimi  nif^6  — ^  lit.,  dcdlsy  or  puppets  made  at  FuMtd) 
in  the  form  of  soldiers,  foxes,  fowls,  and  what-not  (-mih  which 
all  tiie  tiny^  sbops  are  packed),  as  weU  as  a  «nall  vennilicm 
tarii  —  distinguishing  enanbote  of  the  shrine.  The  dai^iing 
of  hands,  the  jingling  oi  holy  beDs,  the  rasping  of  ffeta  on  the 
iMre  stones,  and  the  loud-v^oed  pleading  tor  me  cajntal  priie 
are  incessant  and  almost  deafemng.  •  Men  often  stroll  round 
tibe  compound  far  hours  on  end  with  ears  cocked  for  some 
wireless  nuneh  from  a  benevoleiit  deity,  or  a  fragmentair 
bit  of  conversation  between  successful  business  men  that  wiU 
give  tiiem  an  idea  of  how  to  get  rich.  At  midnight,  too,  they 
prowl  round  the  shrine  in  tiie  hoi^e  that  a  'still  small  voice ' 
may  whisper  the  coveted  word  which  will  serve  as  a  k^j^stone 
to  their  financial  arch.  The  courtyard  is  the  haunt  of  toy- 
seHers,  mendicants,  fortune-tellers,  women  who  liberate  small 
iHids  nrom  a  cage  for  b-sen,  or  who  sell  rice  as  offeringps  to  the 
gods  and  which  the  pigeons  eat  as  soon  as  it  is  sprinkled  on  the 
altars.  On  a  bright  day  when  throngs  of  ga^ly  dressed  wom^i 
and  children  pass  to  and  fro  through  tSe  indosure  crowded 
wiih  snappv  upstart  images  of  foxes^  the  place  is  as  lively  as 
DonnybrooK  Fair.  The  most  attractive  time  for  l^e  foreigner 
Is  in  Nov.  when  the  maples  are  turning,  and  in  May  and  June 
when  the  local  festivals  are  in  full  blast.  Most  important 
among  these  is  the  Inari^matsuri  which  usually  falls  on  June 
6;  at  this  time  trick-riders  come  on  horseback  from  an  old 
temple  (Fvjp^no-mori)  off  the  Nara  road;  the  sacred  cars  kept 
in  the  white  godown  are  drawn  out  and  placed  in  the  proces- 
sion, and  the  day  is  devoted  to  general  jollity  —  and  pocket- 
piclong.  On  this  occasion  the  people  eat  Inari-zuahi,  or  fried 
tSfu  stuffed  with  boiled  rice,  since  tdfu  is  the  favorite  food  of 
the  fox  popularly  believed  to  be  the  messenger  of  Inari  (and 
by  extension,  the  God  of  Rice). 

The  two  entrances  at  the  left  of  the  rly.  station  are  marked 

by  colossal  flamboyant  tarii  that  are  like  lurid  ^irieks  in  thdr 

green  environment.  Just  within  the  upper,  or  main,  entrance, 

are  two  well-carved  Korean  lions  on  pedestals,  then  a  wide 

flagged  walk  flanked  by  pines,  maples,  and  numerous  stone 

lanterns  near  a  spirited  oronze  horse.  Two  lifelike  stone  foxes 

guard  the  entrance  to  the  big,  glowing  gateway,  in  the  loggias 

of  which  the  customary   VaaiQin  &ad  Sadaijin  replace  the 

Buddhist  Nid,  The  view  hence  is  animated  and  pretty;  the 

yard  is  crowded  with  sculptured  foxes  of  all  grades  and  sises; 

with  stooe  lantern  and  lofty  pipe  trees.   Those  foxes  with  a 

rolled  book  in  thdr  moutibB  am  a  %\ATi<&  k^^  (,tKe  book  which 

tetts  otne  bow  to  succeed,  and.tiie\L!S>j  TR\)i<^\v!c^»Os&Vki^\snNb- 

uiB*godowii)  receive  the  most  altCQWon  Ixom  \5aa  ^sws^^aSx^ 

hiOmed.    The  hi^y  tiated  owAot^  QoeXw^eo.  \5afc  «w\fc  «sd 


^e  shrine  proper)  has  a  fine  old  roof  in  the  ShirUd  style,  and 
id  pictures  of  famous  poets.  The  ex-ifoto  hall  near  oy  also 
las  pictures  executed  by  persons  who  were  not  artists.  The 
pretty  roof  of  the  dancingnstage  at  the  right  has  its  beam-ends 
ill  sheathed  in  metal  covered  with  gold  foil.  Inside  the  build- 
ng  is  a  circular  mirror  and  a  drum. 

Many  smaller  shrines  stand  about  in  the  broad,  stone- 
lagged  courtyard,  each  seeming  to  compete  in  luridity  with 
he  central  one  —  which  occupies  the  site  of  the  original  shrine 
srected  in  711,  and  is  guarded  by  the  original  pair  of  foxes 
nto  which  the  goddess  entered  when  she  came  to  earth  I  Its 
■ainbow  colors  clash  like  cymbals,  and  the  cluttering  mass  of 
yeUs  and  mirrors,  brass  and  bronze  fitments  are  tawdry  and 
nartistic.  The  high-colored  dogs  with  curled  manes  and  tails, 
sardine  the  shrine  from  the  outer  balcony,  are  the  customary 
imor-  and  komorinu.  The  temple  office  {8hamti8h6)j  at  the  left, 
s  in  better  taste.  On  the  terraces  which  rise  behind  the  shrine 
ire  other  brilliant  structures,  and  long  lines  of  vermilion  wood 
orii  with  black  legs  and  the  names  of  their  donors  inscribed 
yhereon.  A  host  of  whining,  frowsy  beggars  flank  them  to  the 
x>int  where  they  converge  at  the  tiny  hillside  shrine  called 
JkvHrKMm,,  where  there  is  a  scrap-heap  for  the  deposition  of 
>roken  torii  and  household  deities  that  have  served  their  pur- 
pose. The  path  at  the  left,  called '  Circuit  of  the  Mountain 
follows  '  {HorcHmegurif  or  cave-going-round),  leads  up  and 
iroimd  the  hillside  for  about  2  M.  and  is  supposed  to  be  flanked 
>y  fox-burrows.  From  the  summits  of  the  hills  —  some  <rf 
¥hich  are  sprinkled  with  Imperial  tombs  —  good  views  of  the 
unrounding  country  may  be  enjoyed.  An  excellent  mushroom 
;alled  matstUake  is  found  in  the  neighborhood.  The  lively 
itreet  in  front  of  the  shrine  inclosure  is  known  as  Inarirgozeur 
nachi,  with  many  small  restaurants  and  shops. 

While  the  traveler  is  in  this  neighborhood  he  may   wish 
»  continue  along  the  Fushimir-kaido  (cross  the  rly.  track  be- 
yond the  Inari  Station^  and  continue  up  the  highway  6  min.) 
/o  the  (left)  Sparrow-House  (Suzume  no  Oyado),  a  simple 
iwelling  (no  distinguishing  marks)  regarded  by  the  towns- 
olk  as  a  local  curiosity  (fees  not  obligatory).    For  some  un- 
mown  reason  this  house  has  been  selected  as  a  nestine-place 
'or  the  sparrows  (suzume)  of  the  neighborhood,  and  under  the 
X)rch  of  the  open  court,  and  from  the  beams  and  rafters  of 
ihe  interior,  pend  scores  of  gourds,  willow  baskets,  metal 
anterns,  and  what-not  in  which  the  birds  have  built  their 
lests  and  to  which  they  come  through  a  barred  window  in  the 
lide  wall.  Tradition  has  it  that  at  some  period  in  the  dim  ^^aa^ 
he  owner  of  the  house  (a  scrupulously  dean  p\aA€^  Yi^lTVfexAA 
he  forebears  of  the  present  birds,  from  wbicn  thne  ^«rs  V3!Sl% 
^oj  they  took  up  their  abode  under  hiB  rool.  Bftxe  Vtos  «^ 
refuJJy  guarded  against  the  snakes  and  xaU  ^\3M^  «^ 


440    Route  f^.  KYOTO  Kurodani  Temple. 

them,  and  to  this  haven  they  come  in  confusing  swarms  at 
eventide  —  to  depart  early  in  the  morning  to  seek  their  food 
in  the  city's  streets.  During  the  mating  season  the  house  is  in 
a  turmoil;  the  amorous  birds  bring  'friends'  with  them  and 
make  nests  in  every  nook  and  cranny  of  the  place;  not  over- 
looking the  cooking-utensils,  old  hats,  coat-pockets,  shoes,  and 
so  forth.  Children  love  the  place  and  they  bring  eourds,  etc., 
with  their  names  inscribed  upon  them,  and  are  delighted  to 
find  a  featheiy  little  family  oeing  reared  in  them.  Visitors 
are  welcomed  by  the  courteous  old  lady  of  the  house,  who  ekes 
out  a  living  by  selling  pretty  post-cards  showing  the  nests.  — 
The  traveler  fond  of  Shinto  shrines  and  their  oftentimes  pic- 
turesque surroundings  will  be  well  repaid  if  he  decides  to 
contiaue  beyond  the  Inari  Shrine  to  the  far  handsomer  and 
more  spihtiially  satisf  jdng  Hachiman-gu  described  hereinaf t». 

Northeast  Quarter. 

•  KuBODANi.  Shinnyo-dS.  Yobhida-jinja.  Ginkaku-ji.  Honbn-in. 
.    Anraku-ji.  Ntakuo-ji.  Eikwan-do.  Nanzen-jz.  Kb-agb. 

^Kurodani  CDark  Valley')  a  charmingly  situated  Buddhist 
temple  on  a  hill  in  the  N.E.  quarter  (PL  E,  2),  20  min.  walk 
from  the  Miyako  Hotel,  was  foimded  early  in  the  13th  cent. 
by  Honen  Shonin,  on  the  site  of  the  cabin  built  by  him  for 
his  long  meditation  upon  the  doctrine  of  the  Jddo-^hu  as 
expounded  by  him  after  he  had  severed  his  connection  with 
the  Tendai  sect.  The  present  structure,  the  headquarters  of 
the  Seizan-ha  branch  of  the  Jodo  sect,  dates  from  about  1775 
and  owes  its  spick-and-span  appearance  to  the  various  reno- 
vations and  improvements  made  in  1911  when  Shonin^ 8  700th 
anniversary  was  celebrated  with  great  pomp  and  brilliancy. 
The  double  line  of  wooden  tablets  which  the  traveler  notes 
at  the  right  and  left  as  he  enters  the  temple  groimds  bear 
the  names  of  the  most  generous  contributors  te  these  improve- 
ments; some  of  the  standards  stuck  in  the  ^ound  at  the  left 
record  sums  ranging  from  50  to  700  yen.  The  outer  gate  is 
less  imposing  th^  me  Main  Gate,  which  is  a  severely  simple 
but  imusually  sturdy  and  attractive  example  of  18th-cent. 
Buddhist  architecture.  The  custodian  (office  at  the  left  of  the 
stone  steps  leading  to  the  upper  terrace)  keeps  the  key  to  the 

.    superstructure,  which  is  reached  by  46  steep  wooden  steps. 

The  handsome  gilded  images  of  Shaka,  Monju,  and  Fugen  are 

cheapened  by  contact  with  the  16  luridly  decorated  Rakan 

wluch  flank  them.    The  sinister  sepia  dragon  on  the  ceiling 

is  by  some  imknown  artist  of  the  Kano  school.    The  view 

from  the  encircling  balcony  is  magnificent  and  far-reaching  — 

extending  over  the  entire  city  and  to  XJaa  ^^an  hilla  which  hold 

It  guietiy  in  a  loving  embrace. 

The  temple  enviromneat,  onfe  ol  «cea\.  i^\a^  WaJcsi  ,;^ 

unuBUtdly  satisfying.  The  immeoae,  i^aXTkax^^^  crr&tCTaKs:«ia^ 


KumagauaNaozane,  KYOTO  f7.  Rouk.    4A1 

which  must  be  very  old.  tower  high  above  the  grotesque  pines, 
flaming  maples,  magnolias,  plums,  cherry,  and  other  flowering 
trees  that  overshadow  the  cool,  sequestered  paths.  Along 
these,  pensive  bonzes  and  humble  acolytes  with  downcast  look 
pace  tranquilly  to  the  rhythm  of  clicking  rosaries,  deep- 
voiced  bells,  tapping  drums,  and  chanted  htanies;  their  rich 
and  brilliant  silken  robes  of  rose,  plum,  dregs-of-wine,  cream- 
white,  and  iridescent  green  striking  a  curiously  tender  note, 
and  evoking  dreams  of  imperial  gardens,  of  princesses,  ladies- 
in-waiting,  and  memories  of  other  lands  and  times.  Nestling 
deeply  and  contentedly  in  its  ancient  and  sacred  groves,  the 
fine,  dignified  old  temple  seems  very  far  from  the  noise  and 
commotion  of  the  moaem  city.  A  great  and  all-pervasive 
calm  seems  to  brood  above  it^  soothing  the  tired  nerves  like 
a  childhood  lullaby.  At  the  nght  of  the  sammon  is  the  usual 
easy  ascent  for  the  women,  and  straight  ahead  are  the  21 
stone  steps  which  sweep  upward  to  the  terrace  on  which  the 
temple  stands.  Here,  at  the  left,  is  the  old  campanario  with 
its  melodious  bell,  and  farther  along,  almost  hidden  amons 
the  trees,  are  two  big,  seated  bronze  figures  of  the  merciful 
Amida,  The  artistic  bronze  water-buckets  near  the  entrance 
receive  rain-water  from  the  temple-roof  and  serve  as  a  part 
of  its  fire  equipment.  Conspicuous  objects  on  this  esplanade 
are  3  curious  pine  trees,  two  of  them  locally  celebrated.  One, 
called  Oai-^iKMnatsu  Cpine  of  the  folding-fan'),  has  been 
trained  skillfully  to  grow  along  a  trellis,  in  the  shape  of  an 
open  fan;  the  other,  some  distance  to  the  right,  is  called 
Yoroi-kake-matsu  (* broken-armor  pine*),  from  the  tradition 
that  Kumagaya  Naozane  hung  his  sword  and  coat-of-mail 
upon  it  when  he  renounced  his  calling  and  as  a  monk  entered 
upon  a  lifelong  penance. 

History  makes  of  Naozane  a  12th-cent.  hero  of  the  Taira  Clan,  who  later 
joined  the  Minamoto  and  fought  against  his  erstwhile  friends.  At  the  celebrated 
battle  of  Sumormo-ura  (in  1184),  he  overtook  and  seised  an  enemy  in 
armor  and  prepared  to  dispatch  him.  As  the  etiquette  of  war  required  that 
in  such  cases  no  blood  should  be  spilled  unless  the  vanquished  proved  to  be 
of  equal  rank  and  ability  with  his  captor,  the  great  soldier  demanded  the 
stranger's  name.  This  was  refused,  and,  in  growing  anger,  Naozane  ruth- 
lessly tore  off  his  helmet  only  to  find  that  the  fair,  beardless  face  before  him 
was  that  of  a  beloved  comrade,  Taira  Ataumori,  son  and  heir  of  his  former 
master.  The  astonished  warrior  relaxed  his  hold,  and,  helping  the  youth 
to  his  feet,  the  while  swearing  that  his  sword  should  never  be  tarnished  by 
a  drop  of  his  blood,  bade  him  go  to  his  mother's  side.  Ateumori  refused,  and 
begged  Naozane,  for  the  honor  of  both,  to  kill  him  on  the  spot.  Visions  of 
his  own  dear  son  who  had  fallen  in  battle  earlier  in  the  day  flashed  across 
his  mind,  and  with  breaking  voice  he  again  begged  AUumori  to  fly  for  his 
life.  Finding  bis  entreaties  vain  and  hearing  the  steps  of  approaching 
comrades  he  exclaimed:,  *If  thou  art  overtaken,  thou  mayest  fall  by  a  more 
ignoble  hand  than  mine.  O,  thou  Infinite  One,  receive  his  soult '  AUumoK 
received  the  blow  without  flinching,  and  Kumagaya^  cnishod  mX^  t«nMA«A, 
restored  the  severed  bead  to  Aisumori'a  father,  and  at  the  erA  oi  ^^  ^wk. 
retimd  to  the  Kurodani  Temple,  took  the  name  o!  Renftk5,  YiMmXAs  \^w^ 
^aeU  under  the  direction  of  the  famous  Oenka,  and  died  va  V»».  ^^»* 
toijrJuu  beea  dramatued  under  the  title  *  Ateumiri,' 


The  main  temple  has  »  beautiful  reliquary  of  metal  alid 
flolcKlaoquer  eomtaining  a  seulptured  wood  figure  of  Hdnsn 
ahihdn  carved  bjr  his  owb  hand  in  1207.  The  lateral  shrines 
of  Boipber  black-lacquer  picked  out  with  ydlow  gcdd  fitmrnits 
are  marked  by  oonmderable  dignity  and  restraint,  and  they 
form  the  most  striking  objects  of  the  interior.  In  them  are 
mortuary  tablets  of  the  hallowed  dead,  among  them  devotees 
who  have  subscribed  appreciable  sums  for  the  improvanent 
and  nkaintenanee  of  the  temple.  The  great  metal  baldachin, 


and  other  iecclesiastical  symbols ;-  and  (hanging  from  tiie 
beams)  numerous  fannshaped  metal  heman  —  an  ^nbellieli* 
ment  often  placed  on  the  heads  of  idols.  At  the  rear  of  the 
main  altar,  whidi  is  done  in  brilliant  and  noisy  colors,  is  a 
{Minting  oi  Seifhi-bosaltsu  called  hajtpd  shdmen  Ceight-direo- 
tions  front')  fixmi  the  (suppo(Nled)  peculiarity  that  the  eyes 
appear  to  follow  the  observer  and  to  look  at  him  from  all 
angles.  The  bonaes  insist  that  the  work  is  that  of  the  cele- 
br£bed  Kand  Hdgen  (Masanobu),  founder  of  the  Kan6  school 
of  painting  (p.  ccxxvii),  and  that  it  was  painted  shortiy 
before  his  death.  The  spacious  corridors  which  surround  ti^e 
priestly  apartments  are  laid  with  'nightingale'  floors.  Among 
the  cherished  temple  treasures  are  many  sliding  screens, 
kakemono,  embroideries,  and  relics  of  Kumayaga;  some  are 
to  be  seen  in  the  above  apartments,  while  others  are  stored 
in  the  adjacent  ^odowns  and  are  shown  only  during  the  annual 
festivals  in  April  (about  the  18th)  and  Sept.  (20th).  *  Photo- 
graphs of  the  best-known  objects  are  shown  to  those  inter- 
ested. A  beautiful  tapestry  (never  shown  during  the  rainy  • 
season),  in  the  form  of  a  lotus-thread  embroidery  representing 
the  Buddhist  Paradise,  is  said  to  date  from  the  8th  cent,  and 
to  be  the  work  of  a  celebrated  woman,  Chuid-hime  (b.  753; 
d.  781),  the  daughter  of  Fv^wara  Toyonari  (and,  if  legend  is 
to  be  credited,  an  incarnation  of  the  Goddess  Kvxmnon),  It 
is  very  old  and  timenstained  and  is  perhaps,  in  sober  truth, 
either  a  copy  of  the  original  or  the  work  of  some  16th-  or  17th- 
cent.  craftsman. 

In  the  suite  which  looks  out  upon  the  lovelv  little  landscape 

garden  (one  of  the  daintiest  and  most  gem-like  in  Ey5to,  and 

which  is  called  Foroi-«ii(e-no-^,  because  Kumagaya  Naotane 

threw  his  armor  into  it)  are  some  nondescript  sliding  screens 

decorated  in  black  and  white  by  modern  artists;  the  big, 

iinZuuidsome  one  which  displays  a  figure' of  Hotei,  mik  i£e 

coBtom&ry  wHmx  abdomen  \a  ^e  mos^  «>tnkin^  among  them. 

The  WujLOW  Room  (wloAcib.  dww\d\i^  «fi«CL^  c.QxAaas»^»28naw 

hMndaome  gold  panfib  by  modcnm  «x\!^\a.  ^^V^^  «^Ysa^m% 

TtoMB Room  (wM^wiiki ^e x«maMadL« \aiw» v\a\«5i»\iMBi 


Amidordd.  KYOTO  £7.  BmOe.    443 

liie  subjeets  portrayed  on  the  dividingsereeiiB)  is  noteworthy 
For  several  masterpieces  by  Kvbota  Beisen,  The  elon^ted 
tigers  that  stretch  over  several  panels  were  manifestly  pamted 
From  an  inspiration  awakened  by  some  traveler's  tale  of 
what  a  foreign  tiger  ought  to  look  like.  The  screens  of  the 
next  room  are  mediocre,  with  mytholo^cal  phoenixes  and 
malformed,  playful  Dogs  of  Fo.  The  gilded  Amida  in  the 
reliquary  is  excellent.  Still  better  are  two  other  figurines  of 
the  same  divinity,  concealed  within  secret  shrines  regarded 
as  too  sacred  to  show  to  ordinary  folks.  The  gigantic  sepia 
dragon  on  an  old-gold  ground  in  the  adjacent  apartment,  as 
weliBs  the  folding  screens  portrayine  an  Imperial  procession 
in  olden  times,  are  ascribed  to  Tosa  Mitsiioki  (1617-91).  The 
chokushv-fUMna  (where  Imperial  messengers  were  formerly 
received)  contains  a  set  of  striking  screens  (by  Beisen)  let 
into  the  rear  wall  and  exhibiting  bamboos,  pine  and  plum 
trees  in  combination  with  gold-lacquer  and  metal  enrichments. 
The  kakemono  with  a  specimen  of  the  handwriting  of  Go- 
Kashiwabara  (Emperor  from  1501  to  1527)  is  said  to  be  gen- 
uine. The  quaint  carved  wood  image  (erroneously  ascribed  to 
Hidari  Jingoro)  is  of  Jurojin, 

In  the  small  room  shut  off  from  the  corridor  by  a  glass  door 
is  the  heavy  wood  rice-pestle  with  which  Kumagaya  Naozane  is 
said  to  have  pounded  nee  for  60  consecutive  days  before  beinar 
admitted  to  the  monastic  life;  a  picture  of  that  worthy  and 
some  minor  relics  are  also  preserved  here  —  among  them  the 
sword  he  hung  on  the  pine  tree  near  the  temple  entrance.  The 
attractively  enshrined  kakemono  in  the  adjoining  room  por- 
trays Honen  Shonin;  Monju  and  Fugen  are  shown  at  the  nght 
and  left.  In  an  adjacent  room,  inclosed  in  a  lovely  reliquary, 
is  a  script  copy  (original  in  the  Imperial  Museum)  of  Shonin^ s 
handwriting.  The  large  pictures  at  the  right  and  left  depict 
historical  episodes  in  Ins  Life  and  in  those  of  his  disciples.  The 
minor  relics  of  the  great  bonze  —  musical  instruments,  pieces 
of  porcelain,  lacquered  objects,  etc.,  are  of  interest  chiefly  to 
Buddhists.  —  The  weather-beaten  Amida-dO  at  the  right  of 
the  belfry  and  the  stairs  leading  up  to  the  terrace,  has  on  its 
main  altar  a  well-carved  gilt  figure  of  Amida  ascribed  to 
Eshin  Sozu.  The  sepia  dragon  on  the  ceiling  jiist  above  it  is 
by  Senyo  Denko,  a  bonze  who  at  one  time  served  in  the  temple. 
The  small  structure  at  the  right,  on  a  lower  terrace,  has  for 
the  central  figure  of  the  altar  a  Senju  Kwannon;  at  the  right 
is  a  smaller  Kwannonj  and  at  the  left  an  image  of  Kibidaijin 
(Makibi).  Facing  this  building  is  the  Kto-d5  with  a  time- 
stained  image  of  Shaka  surroimded  by  a  number  of  »saX^ 
figures;  many  paper  prayers  are  tied  to  tihe  wte  "aft\XicB%  ^ 
ibe  door. 

We  now  leave  the  compound  and  proceed  \ip  ^;\i^  VaOa^ft^*^ 
te  nght  (of  the  big  g&te),  pass  over  an  axdxed  EWaft^oTWl^^ 


444    BauUn.  KYOTO  QinkakitriL 

Bpanning  a  lotus^pool,  and  come  (right)  to  a  small  flhiine 
dedicated  to  Naozane,  The  scores  of  small  and  lurid  ex-vaio 
tablets  showing  angelic  children  having  their  heads  shaved, 
were  placed  there  by  the  simple  and  credulous  parents  of 
youngsters  who  stood  the  operation  without  squirming  only 
after  they  had  been  anointed  with  the  soporific  water  lx>u^t 
at  the  Uttle well  near  by!  From  this  point  hundreds  of  chisded 
gravestones  spread  up  and  over  the  hill-slope;  among  them 
the  tombs  of  Naozanej  of  Honen  Shonin  (who  is  also  supposed 
to  be  biuied  at  the  Ckion-in  Temple)  and  other  celebrities  of 
the  Jodo  sect.  Continuing  up  successive  flights  of  stone  steps, 
between  long  lines  of  mouldering  tombs  before  many  of 
which  incense  smoulders  incessantly,  we  reach  a  tawdiy  uttle 
three-storied  pagoda,  with  some  wheezy  old  wooden  figures 
in  the  lower  part.  The  path  which  leads  off  at  the  left,  be- 
tween the  lines  of  graves,  goes  to  (5  min.) 

The  Shinnyo-dd,  a  massive  old  temple  of  the  Tendai  sect, 
surrounded  by  an  unusual  number  of  fine  trees.  Save  for  the 
gilded  statue  of  Amida  (attributed  to  Jikaku-Daishi)  on  the 
main  altar,  the  crowded  interior  contains  nothing  worth 
seeing.  The  approach  from  the  main  gate  up  through  the  green 
tunnel  formed  by  arching  trees  is  lovely  in  Nov.  when  the 
scor^  of  maples  blush  to  the  first  rude  touch  of  winter.  The 
Shintd  shrine  at  the  top  of  the  ascending  slope  directly  in 
front  of  the  temple  gate  is  the  Yoshidor-jinja. 

The  Ginkaku-ji,  or  so-called  *  Silver  Pavilion,'  a  time-worn 
and  somewhat  tawdry  structure  in  a  sequestered  spot  in  the 
N.E.  outskirts  of.  the  city  (PI.  F,  2),  is,  despite  the  extrava- 
gant praise  bestowed  upon  it  by  certain  writers,  of  historical 
rather  than  present  interest,  and  is  worth  seeing  only  if  the 
traveler  has  the  time  at  his  disposal  and  has  not  seen  the 
superior  Kinkaku-ji  (p.  483).   The  walk  thither  (an  easy  50 
min.  from  the  Miyako  Hotel)  is  one  of  the  prettiest  in  the 
environs  provided  onie  goes  round  by  the  Kurodani  and  the 
Shinnyo-do  temples  on  the  outward  trip,  crosses  the  flat  (good 
walking)  at  the  upper  end  of  the  valley,  and  returns  along  the 
shaded  hillside  road  which  flanks  the  gardens  of  the  Honen-in. 
Anrahu'jif  Nyakuo-ji  Eikwan-do,  and  the  Nanzen-ji  —  all 
of  which  can  be  included  in  the  tour.    A  host  of  reddening 
maples  glorify  this  stretch  of  highway  in  early  Nov.,  and  the 
tall  thickets  of  bamboo,  the  groves  of  pine,  cr3rptomeria,  and 
other  evergreen  trees  impart  an  ineradicable  charm.    Rick- 
shas are  in  waiting  at  the  hotel  for  the  constitutionally  tired 
or  for  the  persons  pressed  for  time,  and  2  men  can  make  the 
round  trip  (¥1.90)  in  about  2  hrs.  For  the  carriage  rate  see 
p.  402,    The  excursion  makes  «k  dft\\^\,lM\.  iorenoon  outing  on 
foot.    The  route  indicated  aYio\i\d  \i^  IcJ^o^^,  \«t  ^  <5k\«. 
crosses  the  lowland  beyond  t\iei  SKiuu^jo-do  A^^^^^  ^\^^Ns^r 
clad  hillB  loom  etraight  ahead,  aad  t\ife  \au\a  qJI  VJofc  Tasw^J^^ 


^Siher  PtMion.  KYOTO  B7.  Boide.    445 

against  the  green  background,  broken  here  and  there  by 
splendid  old  temple  roofs,  show  grandly.  This  aspect  £b 
missed  if  the  journey  be  taken  in  the  reverse  order  —  unless 
one  turns  continually  to  drink  in  the  beauty  of  the  scene. 

Immediately  after  the  Onin  war,  when  the  financial  position  of  the  shO- 
Sunal  exchequer  was  as  desperate  as  the  poverty  of  the  wretched  people, 
the  thoughtless  and  incompetent  shopuiit  Aahikaga  Yoshimaaa,  abdicated 
^in  1474)  the  shdgunate  in  favor  of  his  son  Yoshihisa  (then  9  yrs.  old),  and 
in  order  still  to  conduct  the  a£Pairs  of  the  Empire  (and,  incidentfdly,  to  ape 
his  grandfather's  erase  for  extravagance)  he  built  for  himself  (in  1477)  a 
palace  on  the  slope  of  HtgashtFifaina  (whence  his  nickname,  *  Higaahi- 

fama  Shogun').  Within  its  precincts  he  constructed  a  so-called  'Silver 
^avilion '  (ginkaku)  to  serve  as  a  companion  edifice  to  the  Gcdden  Pavilion 
{kinkaku)  which  his  forebear  AMhikaga  Yoahimitau  had  built  Qn  1395)  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  city.  The  most  celebrated  artists  of  the  time  worked  at 
the  ornamentation  of  the  apartments,  and  the  classical  garden  was  laid  out 
by  Soami,  a  painter,  poet,  professor  of  the  tea-ceremony,  and  a  prime  favor- 
ite of  Yoakimtua.  Here  the  latter  dwelt  until  his  death  (in  1490),  surrounded 
bv  bonses,  court  dames,  bepowdered  poetasters,  actors,  and  libertines,  who 
abetted  him  in  his  caprices  and  efforts  to  immortalise  himself  while  impoverish- 
ing the  nation  bv  his  own  prodigality.  While  battles  were  being  fought  by  his 
exasperated  and  riotous  subjects,  this  arid  and  frivolous  pedant  gave  cAo-no* 
yu  parties,  incense-comparing  parties,  and  poem-comparing  parties  ad  natt- 
team^  and  sipent  his  time  in  sensuous  and  unlicensed  revelry.  He  died  before 
he  could  carry  out  his  intention  of  plating  the  pavilion  entirely  with  silver. 
Later  the  structure  was  converted  mto  a  temple  (ji)  under  the  name  Ji»h5^ 
ji,  but  it  is  better  known  as  the  Ginkaku-ji. 

The  admission  fee  of  20  8en  per  pers.  pays  f on  the  bonzes 
(usually  two  —  one  perhaps  as  a  check  on  the  other)  who  con- 
duct the  visitor  through  the  premises  and  call  out  in  a  sing- 
song monotone  the  customary  stereotyped  phrases  before 
each  object.  Covers  for  shoes  are  provided  by  them.  No 
photographing  or  sketching  is  allowed  without  special  per- 
mission. The  first  room  into  which  the  traveler  is  shown 
is  inclosed  by  white  (paper)  fusuma  bearing  on  their  other- 
wise undefiled  surfaces  black  palmettoes  and  crows  drawn 
without  grace  or  skill  by  Taniguchi  Buson — an  early  Chinese 
painter  (and  poet).  The  old  kakemono  with  100  monkeys  in  va- 
rious awkward  attitudes  is  curious  rather  than  attractive;  as 
are  likewise  the  3  kakemono  of  Daruma  and  the  2  landscapes 
by  Kano  Tanyu.  The  gilded  and  seated  image  of  Shaka,  on 
the  altar  of  the  adjoining  room,  is  one  of  the  prettiest  objects 
in  the  place.  The  gold  crown,  and  the  smooth,  dead-gold 
surface  of  the  plate-shaped  mandorla,  with  its  blue  line  fol- 
lowing the  contour  of  the  head  and  shoulders  of  the  saintly 
symbol  of  immutable  eternity,  is  very  striking.  The  stiffly 
carved  figure  at  the  right  is  the  unattractive  Daruma;  that 
at  the  left  is  one  of  the  Rakan,  All  three  are  attributed  to 
j5cho  (the  llth-cent.  ancestor  of  a  long  line  of  famous  sculp- 
tors, the  most  celebrated  among  whom  is  the  master  Unkei), 
but  the  two  side  figures  are  manifestly  by  a  hand  less  mas- 
terly. The  fusuma  in  this  and  the  next  room,  depicting 
erudelv  drawn,  clumsy  Chinese  men  carrying  otbet^  py^b^r 
\,  lack  both  grace  and  refinement,  and  va»  aaccvpXioii  C&. 


446    BauieS?.  EYOTO  Silver  PavOUmi 

them  to  Buaon  is  indubitably  correct.  The  pink-breasted 
Kwannon  (perhaps  by  Kano  Sanraku)  is  charming,  the  wo- 
manlv  lines  being  half  concealed  by  soft  draperies.  —  The 
fadea  old  sliding  screens  of  the  sometime  throne-room  are 
uninteresting;  the  old  iron,  porcelain,  lacquer,  and  madre- 
perl  articles  in  the  outer  room  belonged  to  Yoshimaaa,  as 
did  also  the  attractive  lacquered  trays  covered  with  gold 
tracery  so  deftly  applied  that  it  resembles  fine  damascene- 
work.  Passing  through  several  small  apartments  with  unin- 
teresting fitments  we  come  to  the  Shrine  Room,  where  there 
is  a  seated,  sculptured  wood  effigy  of  Yoshimasaf  strikingly 
realistic  with  its  nard,  staring  ivory  eyes.  The  carved  Amida 
does  n't  amount  to  much;  nor  do  the  olack-and-white/u9Tima 
displaying  land-  and  searscapes  by  Kvbota  Beisen.  Just  out- 
side is  a  pond  with  many  big  brown  and  gold  carp  which 
respond  to  a  hand-clap,  and  protect  the  home  industry  by 
greedily  gobbling  down  the  bread  which  the  bonze  sells  at  4 
pieces  for  one  sen.  The  indifferent  fuauma  in  the  next  apart- 
ment are  also  by  Beisen, 

Further  along,  around  the  comer  of  the  corridor,  is  a  small 
but  historic  room  with  a  surface  area  of  but  4}  mats;  in  the 
center  of  the  floor  is  a  sunken  fire-box  and  in  this  an  old  iron 
tea-pot  for  "boiling  watey  for  tea.  This  quaint  cubby-hole, 
more  like  a  toy  room  than  the  sometime  habitat  of  a  power- 
ful sovereign,  is  as  bare  as  a  monk's  cell,  is  ascribed  to  Sdami, 
and  is  believed  to  be  the  first  chaaeki  constructed  in  Japan  in 
accordance  with  the  restrictions  of  the  rigid  code  governing 
the  chorno-yu.  Beyond  is  another  formal  little  pond,  then  a 
pretty,  sunlit  room  overlooking  a  lotus-pool;  the  panel 
screens  displaying  marsh-grasses  swaying  in  the  wind  are  the 
work  of  the  versatile  Soami.  As  a  termination  to  the  inspec- 
tion of  the  suites  the  visitor  is  finally  conducted  to  a  poor  room 
hung  with  some  kakemono  (showing  the  omnipresent  Daruma) 
executed  in  a  hard  and  dry  manner,  where  tea  is  sometimes 
served  in  the  (supposed)  diorno-yu  style.  —  Out  in  the  ably 
planned  garden  are  two  huge  piles  of  sand  stiffened  by  expo- 
sure to  the  elements;  one  is  shaped  like  a  big  dipper  or  a 
tobacco-pipe,  and  is  called  Gin  shadan  (lit.,  the  silver  front 
steps  of  a  Shinto  shrine),  where  the  erratic  Yoshimasa  used 
to  sit  and  hold  communion  with  his  friends;  the  smaller, 
conical  one,  about  6  ft.  high  and  10  or  more  ft.  in  diameter,  is 
the  Kogetsvrdai  (Chinese :  *  Bright  Moon  Terrace')  where  he 
was  wont  to  soliloquize  and  gaze  at  the  moon.  The  winsome 
little  pond  with  its  background  of  hills  belted  with  lofty  trees 
and  iaealized  in  season  by  the  white  and  pink  sazanktva  (mt. 
tea-flower)  which  overshadow  it,  is  charming,  and  means 
much  more  to  the  traveler  than  the  maudlin  vaporings  of  the 
effete  high-revelers  who  dubbed  the  whimpering  streamlet 
the  'Moon-washing  FountsAn,^  a  ^Um^^  vol  the  water   the 


The  Eikwan-dd.  KYOTO  g7.  Boide.    447 

'Stone  of  Ecstatic  Contemplatioii,'  and   the  dowdy  little 
bridge,  the  'Bridge  of  the  Pillar  of  the  Immortals M 

The  SiLVBB  PAvnjoN,  a  two-storied^  time-stained,  rickety 
and  vermiculated  frame  structure  which  to-day  shows  but 
faint  traces  (merely  a  fleck  here  and  there)  of  silver  about  it, 
overlooks  the  pond  from  the  S.  side.  An  awkward,  crudely 
made,  bronze  phoenix  with  outspread  wings  and  a  strong 
resemblance  to  a  turkey-bustard  stands  on  the  apex  of  the  roof 
as  if  ready  to  flop  down  after  garbage.  The  building  creaks 
ominously  as  one  steps  on  to  the  lower  floor,  where  visitors 
are  shown  a  group  of  a  thousand  tiny  images  of  Jizo,  In  the 
upper  room,  reached  by  steep  stairs,  is  a  shrine  made  from 
tiae  twisted,  weather-beaten  trunk  of  a  sandalwood  tree,  with 
a  not  imattractive  carved  and  gilded  image  of  Kwannon 
(falsely  attributed  to  C7nA^').crowned  and]  backed  by  a  round 
mandorla.  Tea  in  a  cup  on  a  pr^serdoir  in  the  char^nihyu  style 
stands  before  it.  A  grove  of  tall  and  slim  bamboos  flanks 
the  pavilion  in  the  rear;  the  view  from  the  balcony,  over  the 
garden,  is  pretty.  —  The  return  road  from  the  Ginkaku-ji  is 
the  first  narrow  one  at  the  left  after  leaving  the  inclosure. 
A  10  min.  walk  along  this  brings  one  to  the  sometime  fine  old 

Honen-in  (PI.  F,  2),  delightfully  sequestered  in  a  bower  of 
lofty  trees  and  bamboos  on  a  hillside.  Its  clean  and  model 
garden^  the  sands  of  which  are  stamped  with  crests  and 
Buddhist  svmbols,  ranks  high  with  Japanese  fond  of  archaic 
things,  and  it  is  quite  different,  in  mmor  wa^s,  from  other 
temple-gardens  of  the  city.  The  wild  wood  which  slopes  back 
from  it  on  the  E.  feeds  a  number  of  tinkling  rills  that  leap 
down  through  the  deep  shadows  and  over  the  roots  of  the 
forest  giants  before  plimging  with  an  incessant  musical  note 
into  a  shallow  pool  at  one  comer  of  the  dingle.  At  times  the 
solemn  old  bronze  bell  in  the  ^aunt  belfiy  adds  its  querulous 
voice  to  the  monotone,  to  remind  one  of  its  happier  and  more 
prosperous  past.  —  A  further  15  min.  stroll  along  the  high- 
way brings  one  to  the  decaying  Anraku-ji,  also  on  the  hill- 
side and  in  a  tangled  garden  which  flames  with  azaleas  in  the 
spring.  Another  i  hr.  walk  and  we  come  to  the  equally  old 
(and  uninteresting)  Nyakuo-ji,  the  one-time  hereditary  seat 
of  the  Fujiwara  Uona  family,  and  locally  celebrated  for  its 
many  maples,  which  here  turn  crimson  earlier  than  those  in 
other  quarters.  Five  min.  beyond  it  is 

The  £ikwan-dd  (PL  F,  3),  a  Buddhist  temple  of  the  Seisan 
branch  of  the  Jodo  sect,  erected  in  855  by  the  bonze  Shinaho, 
and  rebuilt  on  a  larger  scale  in  983  by  the  bonze  Eikwan  — 
whence  its  name.  The  new  temple,  on  a  lower  terrace  than 
that  occupied  by  the  old  one,  dates  from  1912;  the  approadi 
to  both  is  imusually  picturesque.  A  little  lotus-pond,  <¥V«fr- 
hung  by  weeping  willows,  nestles  in  a  deprea^on  a\>  Mm  looVi 
of  the  2lope,  and  in  autumn  the  display  of  reddeiaiifi^iBas^^*^^ 


I 


448    BmOeSr.  KYOTO  Namm^t 

so  gorgeous  that  thousands  of  people  foregather  here  from  all 
parts  of  the  city  to  enjoy  the  sight  and  drink  tea  served  on  the 
platforms  ranged  along  the  edge  of  the  pond.   Pilgrims  and 
credulous  foll^  also  come  hither  to  see  a  locally  celebrated 
carved  wood  image  of  Amidaf  called  Mi-kaeri  no  Amida,  or 
'Amida  Looking  Sidewise,*  about  which  a  silly  story  is  in 
circulation.    Tradition  has  it  that  the  profoundly  religious 
Eikwan  was  in  the  habit  of  walking  roimd  the  figure,  con- 
stantly repeating  the  Buddhistic  formula  of  Namu  Amida, 
One  day,  while  thus  employed,  he  heard  his  name  called,  and, 
looking  toward  the  statue,  he  saw  that  its  head  was  turned 
(towara  the  left)  and  that  it  was  gazing  at  him.  It  has  since 
retained  this  pose,   despite  the  fact  that  an  incredulous 
daimydf  in  an  effort  to  draw  its  attention  in  another  direction, 
stuck  a  sword  in  its  breast  —  whereupon  it  bled  profusely! 
It  is  about  30  in.  high  and  is  as  crudely  and  stiffly  carved  as 
some  of  the  similar  miracle-working  images  of  Latin  America. 
The  inclosing  'shrine  is  screened  from  the  public,  but  for  a 
small  fee  the  priest  in  charge  conducts  one  to  the  right  side  of 
the  altar,  moimts  a  platform,  lights  tapers,  and  in  a  loud 
voice  reads  the  alleged  history  of  the  figure;  then  slowly  and 
dramatically  he  rolls  up  a  curtain  until  the  image  is  seen 
looking  out  and  down  upon  the  beholder.  One  then  passes 
along  the  front  and  is  shown  the  blood-stains  produced  by 
the  daimyd*8  sword!    At  the  right  of  the  reliquary  (which 
is  painted  in  appalling  colors)  is  another  one  containing  a 
sculptured  wood  figure  of  Eikwan  —  in  whose  direction  the 
miraculous  Amida  gazes  steadily.  The  old  and  faded  mandara 
at  the  left  of  the  main  altar  portrays  the  numerous  shining 
temples  of  the  Buddhist  heaven.    The  old  campanario  stand^s 
up  at  the  right  of  the  temple,  near  the  graveyard.  —  A  further 
10  min.  along  the  main  road  toward  the  hotel  brings  the 
traveler  to  the  huge  temple  of 

Nanzen-ji  (PI.  F,  3),  the  central  seat  of  the  Rinzai  branch 
of  the  Zen  sect.  The  Emperor  Kameyama  erected  a  palace 
here  to  which  he  retired  after  his  abdication  in  1274,  and  this 
was  converted  into  a  temple  (by  the  bonze  Busshin-Zenji)  in 
1290.  The  original  structure  endured  until  leyasu's  time, 
when  it  was  burned.  This  shdgun  caused  it  to  be  rebuilt  in 
1606,  but  the  structure  was  destroyed  by  fire  in  1895;  the  pres- 
ent temple  dates  from  1907.  The  colossal  two-storied,  weather- 
beaten  gate  is  a  relic  of  the  17th  cent,  and  is  of  sinister  repute 
among  the  Japanese,  who  know  it  as  the  place  where  an  in- 
famous robber,  Ishikaioa  Goemon,  was  captured  in  1632  and 
condemned  with  his  unfortimate  son  Ichiro  to  be  boiled  to 
death  in  a  cauldron  of  oil.  This  horrid  sentence  was  carried 
out  in  the  dry  bed  of  the  Kamo-gatuay  before  a  multitude  of 
speotatora,  —  The  grounds  are  spacious  and  park-like,  and 
ATO  appfoaohed  along  an  avenui^  ol  Tio\:\^  ^r^Xnni^sEia  trees. 


Nanem-jL  KYOTO  27.  Anife.    449 

The  new  temple  is  a  dean^  handsome,  dignified  structure,  on 
a  broad  granite  plinth,  and  with  a  blackened  concrete  floor. 
Huge  keyaki  columns  finished  in  the  natural  wood  support  the 
massive  roof,  the  ceiling  of  which  is  almost  covered  with  a 
minatory  dragon  (by  Keinen)  painted  on  a  white  background. 
The  chief  altar  stands  high  at  the  back  of  the  main  h^,  on  a 
huge  raised  framework  of  black-  and  red-lacquered  wood. 
The  central  figure  is  Sliaka,  who  is  flanked  by  his  faithful 
Mohju  and  Fugen;  the  broad,  somber  backgroimd  against 
which  the  gilded  figures  show  serves  to  produce  a  striking 
contrast.  A  covered  passageway  connects  the  building  with 
the  old  apartments  (Hojo)  at  the  rear:  the  office  entrance  is  at 
the  right.  The  5  horizontal  lines  on  the  inclosing  wall  testify 
to  the  Imperial  patronage. 

Entering  through  the  office  (5  sen  fee)  the  visitor  is  con- 
ducted to  Uie  first  room,  which  contains  a  series  of  badly  faded 
ftisuma  (by  Kand  MoUmobu)  displaying  landscapes  and  geese. 
The  next  room  is  called  Jako-nrio-^may  from  the  civet-cats 
painted  (along  with  cranes  and  landscapes)  on  the  fusuma. 
The  Chinese  scenes  in  the  next  room,  by  Kand  EUoku,  are  not 
beautiful;  the  coffered  ceilings  of  all  these  rooms  ciury  tiny 
sunken  panels.  The  adjacent  room  was  also  decorated  by 
Eitoku;  the  old  palanouin,  the  sometime  State  vehicle  of  the 
ill-fated  Emperor  Go-lkdgoy  is  regarded  as  one  of  the  most 

Srecious  of  the  temple  treasures.  The  Crane  Room  carries 
ecorations  by  Motonobu,  and  the /tist^ma  which  shows  a  crane 
standing  on  a  tree-truuK  is  in  his  best  manner.  The  three 
rooms  of  the  next  suite,  or  Sho  Hojo,  are  called  the  Tiger 
Rooms,  from  the  decorations  (by  Kand  Tanyu)  on  the  big 
fusuma  inclosing  them.  Great  tigers  *  fearfully  and  wonder- 
fully made '  stalk  all  over  the  screens,  some  of  them  almost 
as  big  as  horses,  with  bleary,  saucer-like  eyes.  One  in  particu- 
lar, shown  in  the  act  of  lapping  up  water  from  a  brook,  is 
considered  a  masterpiece  of  action  and  skill  in  drawing.  Trav- 
elers who  have  seen  real  tigers  will  form  their  own  opinions 
without  violating  any  of  the  accepted  canons  of  cnticism. 
The  pair  of  old-gold  folding  screens  decorated  with  fans  are 
by  Kand  Eitokuy  and  there  are  others  of  the  same  kind  by  him 
in  another  room.  His  best  work  is  seen  in  an  adjacent  room 
which  was  once  the  chosen  retreat  of  the  Emperor  Go-Yovnei 
(1587-1611).  The  big  panel  in  a  recess  at  the  left,  with  a 
landscape  and  a  waterfall  on  it,  is  decidedly  inferior  to  the 
extraordinarily  handsome  and  striking  gold  screen  represent- 
ing a  Chinese  palace  with  an  Imperial  garden  where  a  number 
of  graceful  Chmese  grandes  damss  are  strolling.  The  composi- 
tion is  unusually  felicitous;  the  fine,  supple  figures  are  drawn 
in  harmonious  colors,  the  pliant  folds  of  the  rich  draperies 
are  close  and  clinging,  and  the  aristocratic  faces  axe  €^<(^^<qsgl^^ 
oiodeled.  All  the  breadth  and  freshness  oi  a  iotiCkBX.  C%sai<(»ft 


450    Route  27.  KYOTO  Mikado' 9  PirioOB. 

gardoi  wiih  its  dwarf  trees  and  lotus-pools,  its  fantastic  rock- 
eries and  willow-pattern  bridges  smothei^ed  in  flowers  and 
plashed  with  sunlight,  show  in  the  picture,  and  are  enhanced 
by  a  cloud  effect  which  recalls'  certain  of  those  employed  by 
MuriUo  as  a  background  for  his  madonnas.  Few  better  exam- 
ples of  Eitoku  in  his  best  manner  will  be  found  in  Ky5to,  and 
few  pictures  as  old  as  this  one  (painted  between  1543  and  1590) 
are  always  as  well  preserved. 

Certain  of  the  most  precious  of  the  temple  paintings  are 
kept  in  the  storeroom  and  are  brought  out  only  on  special 
occasions.  Prominent  among  them  are  some  good  kakemonOf 
treated  in  harmonious  grays  and  pinks  by  Chinee  masters; 
and  a  superb  Kwannon  by  Mokkei;  the  fine  ecclesiastical  face 
of  this  is  drawn  with  a  high  degree  of  skill;  the  red  robe  is 

Eattemed  with  golden  disks,  anof  the  effect  is  one  of  engaging 
armony.  The  Death  of  Buddha  and  his  Elntrance  into  Nir- 
vana (a  favorite  theme  of  Chinese  and  Japanese  artists) 
is  time-stained  but  still  pleasing,  and  is  ascribed  to  Choshikyo. 
A  magnificent  Shaka  flanked  by  Monju  and  FugeUf  the  work 
of  Cho  DensUf  is  well  worth  looking  at;  though  lacking  some- 
what in  softness,  the  central  figure  is  amazinj^^  virile,  and  the 
composition  is  marked  by  character  and  originality.  Among 
the  several  pictures  by  Kano  Tanyu  the  most  noteworthy  is 
a  striking  piece  of  portraiture  representing  a  kindly  old  pnest 
with  a  fine,  genial  face  and  eyes  remarkably  instinct  with  life 
and  character.  He  is  clad  in  a  pale  yellow  robe  with  a  black 
border,  and  seated  in  a  Chinese  ironwood  chair,  with  his  Chi- 
nese shoes  on  a  stool  in  front  of  him.  Tanyu  also  painted 
the  three  portraits  of  the  Emperor  Kameyama  and  the  two 
abbots  who  founded  the  tetnple,  seated  in  great  armchairs, 
in  the  Chinese  manner.  The  most  satisfying  among  the  many 
kakemono  are  those  drawn  in  a  delicate  scsde  of  silver  grays. 
A  graceful  Kwannon  by  Kano  Yasunobu  (18th  cent.)  may 
also  be  seen  here. — The  temple  garden  is  a  small,  bare,  sanded 
space  laid  out  in  the  severe  chahjw-yu  style  ana  ornamented 
with  a  few  scrawny  shrubs.  The  daybreak  and  sundown  bell 
is  rung  from  a  compound  in  this  temple  (and  alternately 
from  the  Kurodani),  —  Between  the  outer  entrance  to  the 
park  and  the  (15  min.)  Miyako  Hotel,  one  passes  the  Ke-age, 
where  the  Lake  Biwa  Canal  enters  the  city. 

Central  and  Southwest  Quarters. 

*MlKADO'8     PaLACB.      *NuO    CaSTLB.     *HiGA8HI    HonGWANJI.      *NI8HI 

HoNOWANJi.   TGji.    Katbuba  Summer  Palacb. 

The  *Mikado's  Palace  (Gosho),  a  group  of  modestly  fur- 
nished edifices  (PI.  C-D,  2)  in  striking  contrast  to  the  splendid 
Nijo  Castle,  stands  near  the  center  of  a  wide  park-like  space  (1 
M.  long  bv  }  M.  wide)  a  short  way  E.  of  the  original  palace 
built  by  me  Emperor  Kwammh  ixv  ^.d.  794.  Successive  fires 


Mikado* 8  Palace.  KYOTO  S7.  Route.    461 

have  long  smce  burned  every  vestige  of  the  first  structures,  and 
tune  and  circumstances  have  removed  the  detached  houses  of 
the  court  nobles  ( Kuge)  and  other  functionaries  which  at  one 
time  occupied  the  space  between  the  present  palace  group  and 
the  girdling  outer  walls.  Oda  Nobunaga  and  Toyotami  aide- 
yoshi  repaired  and  embellished  the  royal  residence  during  the 
16th  cent.,  and  after  the  devastating  conflagration  of  1788, 
Matsudaira  Sadanohu  (or  Matsvdaira  Etchu  no  kamif  writer, 
and  one  of  the  great  ministers  of  the  Yedo  shoaunate)  rebuilt  it 
on  the  model  of  the  present  one.  In  1854  this  suffered  the 
fate  of  its  predecessors,  and  the  modem  structure  rose  from 
its  ashes.  Four  iron-embossed  but  otherwise  plain  gates  admit 
to  the  palace  grounds,  which  are  inclosed  by  a  plastered  wall 
distinguished  oy  upright  beams  and  five  horizontal  Unes, 
known  as  Mi  Tsuiji  or  Suji-bei.  It  is  ornamental  rather  than 
defensive,  and  the  chrysanthemum  crests  on  the  antefixes 
of  the  coping  proclaim  its  royal  character.  For  permits  (no 
fees)  see  p.  4W.  The  N.  gate  is  called  Sakuhei-mon. 

The  traveler  -will  be  disapp<nnted  if  he  looks  for  anything  princely  or 
palatial  in  this  sometime  home  of  the  late  Mikado  —  and  that  of  the 
present  one  when  he  visits  Kydto.  Most  of  the  Emperors  of  Old  Japan 
observed  a  simj^le  and  almost  monastic  mode  of  life,  and  many  generations 
of  the  august  ancestors  of  the  reigning  sovereign  lived  here  in  a  simplicity 
which  oftentimes  bore  a  grim  likeness  to  penury.  The  choice  woods  used 
in  the  construction  of  the  palace  (flawless  hinokx  and  keyaki)  impart  a  cer- 
tain richness  and  an  austere  stateliness  which  somewhat  moderates  its 
manifest  sobriety,  but  there  is  a  total  absence  of  the  heavy,  overwhekning 
gqri^eousness  and  glitter  that  characterises  Nijo  CcuUe,  the  abode  of  the 
mihtant  ahoguns.  It  is  a  significant  expression  of  the  old  Yamato  or  Shinto 
spirit,  which  enjoined  punty  of  life  as  well  as  of  heart.  The  old  smoky 
browned  roof  (called  Hiwadahuki  because  thatched  with  the  bark  of  the 
hinoki  tree) ,  in  the  pure  Shinto  style,  has  rows  of  tiles  along  the  ridges.  The 
general  ecclesiastical  aspect  of  the  structure  is  widdy  at  variance  with  the 
accepted  Western  notion  of  a  palace.  The  fact  that  it  dates  back  no  farther 
than  the  middle  of  the  19th  cent.,  coupled  with  the  instinct  of  restraint,  the 
repression  of  all  fancy,  and  the  manifest  striving  for  the  attainment  of  a 
Spartan  simplicitsr,  accounts  for  the  absence  of  the  usual  portable  decora- 
tions by  the  eariier  masters  of  the  Kano  and  Tosa  schools  of  painting. 
Chinese  influence  (an  ancient  inheritance)  manifests  itself  in  the  (unusual) 
double  doors  swinging  from  hinges.  The  palace  interior  is  most  inviting 
in  the  summer,  when  the  wide,  wind-swept  halls  are  shaded  and  cool.  But 
on  a  gray  day  in  autumn,  when  the  north  wind  sighs  and  moans  through 
the  sepulchral  pines,  and  the  falling  leaves  shiver  and  flee  from  its  chill 
caress,  the  structure  takes  on  a  somber,  cheerless  air  that  is  doubly  accentu- 
ated by  these  same  cloister-like  labyrinthine  passageways,  and  long  chilly 
corridors.  The  real  luxury  of  the  palace  inclosure  is  ma^ested  in  the  ex- 
quisitely beautiful  garden  on  the  spot  where  the  old  gosh^t  stood;  the 
traveler  will  miss  one  of  the  finest  things  in  Kydto  if  he  fails  to  see  it.  A 
more  fidorious  stretch  of  real  forest  and  deep  tangled  wild-wood'  captured 
from  the  mt.  fastnesses,  transferred  to  the  heart  of  a  city,  and  confined 
there  within  four  walls,  does  not  exist  in  S.  Japan.  Its  serene  and  stately 
beauty  is  marked  by  a  feminine  charm  and  winsomeness  that  haunt  one. 
To  the  nature-lover  it  makes  up  many  times  over  for  the  lack  of  omateness 
and  glitter  in  the  palace  itself. 

Entering  the  park  by  the  E.  gate,  we  follow  the  wall  to  its 
angle,  bear  to  the  right,  and  present  credentials  to  the  g^a£d 
(an  officer  of  rank)  at  the  first  gateway.  The  vm\AX  \a  ttiSlu^ 


4S2    R&uie  B7.  KYGTO  Omiya  GoAo. 

to  sign  his  name  in  the  Palace  Register  (morocco-boond  and 
stamped  with  a  golden  16-petal  kiku),  and  is  then  conducted 
across  the  wide  graveled  walk  to 

The  Omiya  Gosho  ('Emperor's  Imperial   Palace'),  where 
formerly  dwelt  those  emperors  who  retired  in  favor  of  a  suc- 
cessor. The  rooms  are  carpeted  and  shoes  need  not  be  removed. 
The  movable  partitions  and  cedar  doors  of  the  first  suite  are 
decorated  with  landscape  views,  pine  trees,  and  plum  blossoms, 
by  modem  artists  of  meager  attainments.    The  gold  screens 
which  inclose  the  living-rooms  of  the  ex-Empress  (who  was  a 
patron  of  husbandry)  depict  in  various  forms  the  progress  of 
growing  rice  from  the  time  of  planting  it  until  the  grain  is  har- 
vested.  The  panels  of  flowers  and  bu-ds,  done  in  a  masterful 
way  on  stippled  gold,  are  by   Kishi  Gantai,    The  Brussels 
carpets  suggest  the  interior  of  a  three-decker  tenement  rather 
than  a  palace.  The  cedar  door  at  the  end  of  the  first  corridor, 
showing  a  tiger  on  one  side  and  a  bear  in  a  snow-covered  forest 
on  the  other,  scarcely  deserves  its  exalted  position.    In  lie 
corridor  at  right  andes  to  this  one  is  a  door  embelUshed  with 
a  winter  scene  and  Chinese  sages  on  one  side,  and  on  the  re- 
verse a  Chinese  student  poring  over  a  book  by  the  light  of  8 
proup  of  glow-worms  which  he  has  caught  and  imprisoned 
m  a  traiislucent  bag!   The  screens  of  the  rooms  immediately 
succeeding  are  decorated  with  birds,  deer,  iris,  peonies,  and 
wistaria,  as  well  as  river-scenes,  seascapes,  and  a  fine  distant 
view  of  Arashiyama;  the  cedar  doors  exhibit  playful  Dogs  of 
Fo,  and  a  warrior  on  horseback.    The  uninteresting  roomfl 
near  the  kitchen  are  as  plain  as  poverty  and  seem  fittle  re- 
moved from  it.  —  The  visitor  is  now  conducted  back  to  the 
entrance,  thence  along  the  side  wall  to  a  small  door  opening 
on  to 

The  SEjrro-GosHo  Garden,  a  regal  retreat  with  its  lofty  fo^ 

est  giants,  its  beautiful  deep  lakes,  quaint  bridges,  sequestered 

walks,  and  dales  and  dingles  that  one  usually  associates  in  the 

mind  with  dryad  oracles  and  sylvan  deities.   No  wood  nymph 

ever  flitted  through  daintier  and  more  umbrageous  dells  and 

embowered  ravines  than  those  which  lead  away  from  the  pebbly 

beaches  that  follow  the  sinuous  shores  of  the  silent  lakes. 

The  garden  is  as  noble  in  size  as  the  scores  of  models  of  it  scat^ 

tered  throughout  Japan  are  artistic  in  their  diminutiveness. 

It  is  seen  at  its  best  in  the  spring  when  the  wistaria  bowers 

are  a  glory  of  grace  and  color,  and  in  Nov.  when  the  reddening 

maples  and  the  lofty  icho  trees  cover  the  winding  paths  with 

a  rustling  carpet  of  royal  crimson  and  golden  leav^.   BWf  a 

buDdred  varieties  of  rare  trees  and  a  host  of  beautiful,  semi- 

tropical  plants  and  flowera  ftanie  with  color  and  add  chann 

to  the  garden,  across  which lauge  ^.lees,  ol  m^  ^^mwRJcLsgwater      _ 

than  the  present  palace,  send  th^Vr  \^l-ex^^^^  "^^^^^^  \^ 

Penidne  lengths.  --  FfiLCing  the  ^aXft  \:faIoM^^^^^O^^^^^^»  \ 


SkMin-den.  KYOTO  87.  BmUe.    453 

passes  out  of  the  gardeii  is  a  wide  road  flanked  by  a  wall 
(riKht),  which  one  follows  to  its  angle,  then  turns  up  at  t^e 
ri^t  to  the  Mi  Daidokoro  Go-moUy  or  'Gate  of  the  August 
Kitchen.'  The  office  of  the  custodian  is  just  withm,  at  the 
right.  Here  one  enters  one's  name  in  another  regist^  and  is 
provided  anew  with  a  guide  to  conduct  him  throi^ 

The  Main  Palace.   The  antechamber,  the  sometime  wait- 
ing-room for  nobles,  is  inclosed  by  sliding  screens  displaying 
(modem)  sepia  drawings  (of  doubtful  merit)  of  cherry  trees 
by  Hara  Zaishdy  cranes  by  Kand  Eigaku,  and  frowsy,  loose- 
jointed  tigers  by  Kishi  Gantai.  One  proceeds  thence  over  the 
nightingale'  floors  of  a  breezy  hall,  and  through  the  Denjd 
(a  dining-room  bare  as  a  monk's  cell,  where  courtiers  used 
to  dine)  to  the  Seiryo-den,  or '  Pure  Cool  Hall,'  so  named  for 
the  small  rill  which  tinkles  down  a  walled  sluiceway  near 
the  outer  steps.   The  visitor  is  expected  to  be  satisfied  with 
merely  a  peep  into  this  sacrosanct  room  —  a  part  of  the  suite 
forming  the  one-time  living-rooms  of  the  late  Emperor,  and 
latterly  used  only  for  specif  festivals  and  receptions.   In  one 
comer  of  the  polished  black-wood  floor  is  a  cemented  s£>ace 
about  8  ft.  sq.,  upon  which,  in  rainy  weather,  fresh  earth  was 
strewn  so  that  the  Mikado  might  worship  the  spirits  of  his 
forebears  without  descending  to  earth  on  the  sanded  floor 
of  the  courtyard.  The  copper  disk  let  into  the  cement  covers 
a  sunken  opening  where  a  charcoal  fire  heats  the  room  in 
winter.    The  decorations  in  blues,  browns,  and  greens,  on 
the  sliding  screens,  are  by  Tosa  Mitsukiyo,  In  the  center  of  the 
raftered  apartments  (63  ft.  long  by  46  wide)  stands  the  mi 
chodai,  or  throne  of  the  Mikado,  in  the  form  of  a  species  of 
baldachin,  of  Chamcecyparis  (as  used  in  constructing  Shintd 
shrines)  inclosed  by  filmy  silken  curtains  and  guarded  by  two 
Korean  lions;  the  Chinese  chair  inlaid  with  madreperl,  used 
by  the  Emperor  at  receptions,  is  a  counterpart  of  the  one  in 
the  Shishin-den.    The  wide  court  on  which  the  room  fronts  is 
sanded  and  combed  as  with  a  harrow;  at  the  right  and  left 
of  the  steps  leading  down  to  it  are  two  fenced-in  clumps  of 
bamboos  {chiku)  called  respectively  Kan-chiku  and  Go-chikuy 
from  Kan  and  Go,  two  ancient  kingdoms  of  China. 

Passing   underneath   a   comer  section  of  the  attractive 
ShirUd-^ty\Q  roof  one  enters  the  Shishirirden  ('secret  purple 
hall,'  or  *  purple  hall  of  the  N.  star  '),  a  vast  room  (44  by  120 
ft.)  similar  in  construction  to  the  Seiryo-den^  bare  save  for  the 
throne  in  the  center,  and  dedicated  to  the  Mikado  —  who  held 
special  audiences  here  or  officiated  at  important  functions. 
The  simple  throne-chair  is  finely  inlaid  witjh  nacr^  «cA  ^xor 
bellished  with  brass  ornaments;  the  chaste  and  da\ii\>^  ^ttVi^Ya 
silk  Bgured  draperies  are  renewed  twice  each  -yeai .  TVift  wAcswA. 
^^.f^p^^s  ^^  stamped  with  designa  of  BparroiVB  axA  o'^^aflc 
Moml/  birdB.  The  squat  lacquered  stands  on  eithec  AAft  <*  ^** 


454    Rouie  27.  KYOTO  Mifwr  Palaee. 

throne  are-  for  the  sword  and  jewel  —  the  Imperial  insigma. 
Conspicuous  objects  at  the  back  of  the  hall  are  the  nine  large 
rectilmear  screens  (called  Seiken  Shojij  or  *  Screens  of  the 
Sages  0  which  form  the  inclosure.  Eight  are  adorned  dlich  with 
four  large  figures  of  Chinese  sages  —  solemn-looking,  slant- 
eyed  worthies  clad  in  red,  white,  and  black  robes,  and  who 
form  a  long  procession  across  the  wide  room.  The  ideographic 
squares  at  the  top  of  the  panels  relate  the  history  of  the  sa^es 
(subjects  of  the  Tung  Dynasty) j  and  the  central  panel  cames 
decorations  of  turtles,  wave-patterns  and  Dogs  of  Fo.  The 
originals  of  all  the  screens  (which  are  copies  by  some  deft 
pupil  of  the  Kano  school,  perhaps  Norinobu,  1692-1731)  are 
ascribed  to  the  master  Kose-^no-Kanaoka,  who  (according  to 
the  legend)  once  painted  a  horse  for  the  Ninna-ji  so  true 
to  life  that  every  night  it  escaped  from  its  frame  and  gal- 
loped about  the  neighborhood  —  wherefore  its  eyes  had  to  be 
minted  out  so  it  could  not  see!  The  inner  sides  of  the  paneb 
ack  delicacy  of  touch  and  are  covered  with  painted  birds  of 
>rilliant  plumage. 

The  spacious  hall  with  its  huge  mediaeval  roof-beams  and 
highly  polished  floor,  its  memories  of  Imperial  presences  and 
its  silent  procession  of  wily  Celestials  trailing  stealthily  across 
it,  is  not  wholly  devoid  of  charm.  The  rows  of  rusted  iron 
hooks  that  pend  from  the  ceiling  hold  up  the  slatted  doors 
opening  on  to  the  sanded  court.  The  18  steps  leading  down 
to  this  are  called  Ju-hakai,  and  they  symbolize  the  different 
grades  into  which  government  officials  were  formerly  divided. 
Anciently  those  received  in  audience  by  the  Mikado  stood  on 
the  step  corresponding  to  their  grade;  those  entitled  to  ascend 
to  the  nail  were  known  as  Den-jo-bito;  and  those  without  rank, 
forced  to  stand  at  the  tail  of  the  procession,  were  called  Jv-ge^ 
because  they  had  to  stand  'down  on  the  earth.'  The  small 
cherry  tree  at  the  left  of  the  foot  of  the  stairs,  the  Sakon  no 
sakwra  (lit.,  *  Body-guard  of  the  Left'),  is  prominent  in  Jap- 
anese heraldry,  and  equally  so  is  the  wild-orange  tree  (heavy 
with  tiny  fruit  in  Nov.)  called  Ukon  no  Tachibana  (*  Body- 
guard of  the  Right').  Both  are  planted  in  obedience  to  an 
ancient  custom.  The  gate  at  the  left  is  the  Sunflower  Gate; 
that  at  the  right,  the  Moon-flower  Gate;  and  the  main  one, 
with  three  doors,  the  Shomev-mon^  or  *  Gate  of  Great  Bright- 
ness.' The  ideographs  in  the  newly  gilded  panel  above  the 
entrance  of  the  hall  spell  Shishinnienf  and  are  by  the  hand 
of  a  celebrated  calligraphist.  To  complete  the  inspection  of 
the  Palace  group  the  visitor  is  now  conducted  to 
The  jKo-Gosho  (Minor  Palace),  the  apartments  in  which 
date  from  1854  and  are  decorated  by  modern  artists.  The  in- 
aer  sides  of  the  sliding  /ttsuma  d\sp\a>f  <iowNecsM\Q\i?\  ^^aacajjes, 
aome  delicate  landscapes  in  llie  Tosa  «>\.n\^,  ^xoQ.«s5ssam,-^v!w^ 
ofFvjv^n,  and  what-not.  Tto  outex  ^A^^V^n^n^tvws&^rrs^. 


Minor  Palace.  KYOTO  fS7.  R»ute.    455 

representing  the  four  seasons,  the  first  showing  a  group  of 
daimyos  and  other  notables  making  New  Year  calls  upon  the 
Emperor.  The  decorations  conmiand  attention  by  the  pre- 
ponderance of  an  intense  cobalt  blue  color,  which  takes  tiie 
form  of  broad  bands  of  unequal  lengths  representing  cloud 
efifects.  Many  of  the  screens  are  adorned  with  heavy  silken 
cords,  while  the  corridor  doors,  embellished  with  polished 
metal  enrichments,  are  double  and  hinged  after  the  Chinese 
fashion.  The  rooms  are  shown  en  suite  and  the  visitor  looks 
through  two  thrown  into  one  to  a  third,  the  Audience  Cham- 
ber, in  which  a  low  dais  served  as  the  Imperial  Throne,  where 
the  Emperor  received  shoguns  and  daimyos.  Beyond  the  first 
suite  is  a  corridor  with  big  cedar  doors  finely  decorated  with 
plum  blossoms  and  Chinese  figures.  The  fusuma  are  compan- 
ion pieces  to  those  of  the  first  suite,  and  they  symbolize  spring, 
summer,  autumn,  and  winter  by  pictures  of  the  Palace  interior 
in  process  of  alteration  necessitated  by  the  changing  seasons. 

The  O  GakuSIonjo  (August  Imperial  Study)  contains  sev- 
eral rooms,  the  finest  of  which  is  the  Gan-no-ma  (' WUd  Goose 
Room')  with  its  lovely  old-gold  fusuma  covered  with 
beautifully  painted  wild  geese  in  harmonious  colors  and  many 
attitudes  —  the  work  of  Renzan  Kishi.  The  second  suite  of 
three  small  rooms  called  respectively  Gedan  (for  persons  of 
lesser  rank),  Chudan  (for  those  of  higher  rank),  and  Jodan, 
or  the  innermost  room  (a  sort  of  tribune  where  the  Mikado  sat 
and  received  visitors),  are  charmingly  decorated  with  ani- 
mated scenes  from  Chinese  life  —  castles,  land-views,  sea- 
scapes, and  what-not  —  the  1st  by  Hara  ZaishOy  the  2d  by 
Tsuruzawa  Tanshin,  and  the  3d  by  Kano  Eigaku.  The  sim- 
ilarity and  progressive  continuity  of  the  work  suggests  that  it 
might  have  been  executed  by  one,  rather  than  three  different 
artists.  The  flower-car  painted  on  the  cedar  door  at  the  end 
of  the  corridor  is  attractive. 

The  Chrysanthemum  Room  (Kiku-no-ma)  carries  con- 
ventional decorations  by  Okamoto  Sukehiko.  The  Corchorus 
Room  {Yamabuki-no-ma)  displays  graceful  branches  of  yel- 
low yamabukiy  the  work  of  Maruyama  Okyo.    The  herons, 
water-grasses,  and  snow-scenes  on  certain  of  the  cedar  doors 
of  the  corridors  are  worth  looking  at.  One  door  is  ornamented 
with  a  turtle ;  another  with  some  wild  geese  in  flight,  in  white, 
subdued  browns  and  gold ;  another  with  a  big  bear  in  a  forest 
buried  deep  in  snow ;  and  still  another  with  a  superb  peacock 
whose  gorgeous,  outspread  tail  extends  over  the  adjacent 
panels.  The  scene  depicting  Chinese  boys  at  play  is  not  with- 
out merit.  The  visitor  is  turned  back  from  here,  a&\.\\a  ^e^ca. 
remaining  apartments  (caiied  Tsune  Goteu)  ax^  oCiCv\\^fi^  Vs 
the  Mikado  when  he  visits  Kyoto  and  are  not  open\,o  pviJc^^ 
scrutiny.  In  this  retired  place  many  generations  ol  ftOV««\«|^ 
jsve  lived  and  died;  not  a  few  of  them  knomiift.  px^^i^AR^'^ 


456    Route  27.  KYOTO  Nijd  CasOe. 

nothing  of  their  empire  and  its  people,  and  unknown  of  them. 
The  decorations  of  the  apartments  are  similar  to  those  we 
have  seen,  the  most  conspicuous  among  them,  from  an 
artistic  viewpoint,  being  the  three  fusuma  by  Raisho  NcUca- 
shimaf  exhibiting  scenes  from  the  Wakanoura  coast,  in  mono- 
chrome. —  The  Meteorological  Observatory  stands  in 
the  Palace  grounds,  and  at  the  W.  end  of  the  park  is  the  little 
Go-o-JiNJA,  which  figures  on  the  10-yen  banknote  issued  by 
the  Nippon  Ginko, 

The  *Nij6  Castle  (Nijo-jo,  or  Nijo-no-shiro)  known  also 
as  the  Nijo-no-rikyu,  or  *  Detached  Palace  of  Nijd  *  (a  name 
gven  to  it  when  it  became  Imperial  property  after  the 
Restoration),  stands  in  the  West-Central  quarter  (PI.  B-C^  3) 
hard  by  the  Nijd  Rly.  Station  (i  hr.  from  the  hotel;  jinriki, 
40  sen;  tramway,  7  sen).  Special  permit  (comp.  p.  400)  neces- 
sary. It  is  incomparably  tJie  finest  relic  in  Ky5to  of  the 
Tokugawa  shdgunal  epoch  and  it  ranks  as  one  of  the  most 
important  monuments  of  this  dynasty  in  Japan.  Fees  are  not 
accepted  and  should  not  be  proffered. 

Despite  the  appearance  of  solidity  imparted  by  the  massive,  fortress- 
like  wall  surmounted  by  white  turrets  at  the  angles;  and  suggested  also  by 
the  encircling  moat,  the  structure  within  is  not  a  castle  in  the  accepted 
sense,  but  is  a  frail,  temple-like,  tile-roofed  frame  building,  gray^  with  a«e, 
but  happily  in  good  preservation,  with  an  interior  gleaming  with  golden 
ornament  —  a  queen's  boudoir  rather  than  a  warrior's  fortified  residence. 
Oda  Nobunaga  built  the  original  castle  in  1569  for  his  prot4g4  Aahikoffa 
Yoahiaki  (15th  and  last  ahogun  of  the  line,  who  later  tried  to  kill  his  bene- 
factor), as  a  sort  of  opulent  token  of  his  almost  unexampled  power,  and  as 
an  immistakable  indication  that  the  might  and  wealth  of  Japan  were  repre- 
sented here  and  not  in  the  Go8ho  —  where  the  Emperor  dwelt.    In  1600, 
Tokugawa  leyasu  renovated  it  and  converted  it  into  a  residence  for  the 
shogun  when  he  might  visit   Kydto;  he  resided  here  in  1611;  the  ahogun 
Hidetada  did  likewise  in  1617  and  1626;  and  the  shogun  lemitsu  in  1634. 
Henc«eforward  for  2  centuries  no  shogun  came  to  Ky5to,  and  the  Palace 
remained  practically  deserted.  In  the  18th  cent,  a  destructive  fire  destroyed 
a  number  of  the  buildings,  prominent  among  them  the  Hom-maru,  or  Chief 
Keep.    In  1863  the  ToUcugawa  ahdgun  lemochi  repaired  hither  at  the  call  of 
the  Emperor  Komei,  and  received  orders  from  him  to  expel  the  foreign 
barbarians   (the  Americans  under  Commodore  Perry)  from  Japan.  Here, 
too,  on  a  fateful  day  late  in  1867,  the  last  of  the  shoguna,    Yoahinobu  (or 
Reiki),  handed  his  resignation  to  the  Emperor,  and  here  on  April  6,  1868, 
the  latter  (the  late  Mikado),  once  more  in  possession  of  his  ancient  herit- 
age and  ancestral  right,  met  the  Council  of  State  and  pledged  himself  to 
establish  a  deliberative  assembly  and  to  decide  measures  of  national  import 
by  a  majority  of  public  opinion!  Subsequently  the  Palace  was  used  as  the 
Kydto  Prefectural  Office,  and  during  this  occupation  certain  iconoclastic 
officials  committed  acts  of  vandalism  which  wrought  destruction  to  many 
of  the  works  of  art  preserved  in  it.    Those  which  remain,  in  the  form  of 
decorations,  are  highly  instructive,  since  they  show  the  extraordinary  in- 
equality of  the  work  of  the  greatest  masters  of  the  17th  cent.,  as  well  as  the 
naive  taste  ^or  lack  of  it)  displayed  by  the  splendor-loving  ahoguna  of  that 
eventful  period.  They  are  also  tvpicaf  of  the  diametrically  opposed  tenden- 
ciea  of  the  Mikado  —  who  lived  the  simple  life  in  the  broadest  sense. 

The  critical  traveler  is  apt  to  Tegaid  QeT\A\ti  ol  \.Vi«  decorations  as  over- 
wrougbt  and  oppressive,  and  to  detect  un  «AmvxXAxte  ol  ^o'a.T«e&s«&vci'U3Air 
barbaric  glitter.    The  motives  are  laiRex,  aud  on  «.  mot^i jij w^vwayss^^ 
tbuQ  one  usually  sees  in  Japan,  and  ate  matVedAay  «•  l^^^JgS^i^gL 
fancy  very  popiidar  in  the  17  tb  cent.  TYiete  *»  con%\dw«to\^  ^n««J«i  NaL^ih* 


East  Gateway.  KYOTO  rr.  RoaOe.    457 

decoration  of  the  different  aportq^enta,  whioh  are  ocustantiy  beins  reftored. 
Some  of  the  beat  work  of  Hidoari  Jingord  and  other  of  we  eany  master 
cjraftamen  may  be  seen  here,  and  the  traveler  with  the  time  at  hie  dis- 
poeal  should  not  miss  it.  The  woods  used  in  the  construction  of  the  Palace 
are  hinoki  and  keyaki.  Tough  na^ve  paper  overlaid  with  gold  foil,  and  regal 
silks  are  much  in  evidence,  while  kakemono  are  conspicuous  by  their  absence. 
Mural-  and  panel-painting  has  been  frequently  resorted  to,  and  no  structure 
in  Kydto  contains  finer  work  in  metal.  Certain  of  the  bird  ornaments  are 
modeled  with  chalk,  then  painted  over  to  give  the  impression  of  thick  gold- 
lacquer.  The  floors  are  of  polished  wood  covered  with  the  special  kind  of 
soft  straw  mats  customarily  used  at  the  Imperial  Court.  The  gorgeous 
interior  with  its  exhausUess  legacy  of  beauty  is  verv  suggestive  of  the  bril- 
liant life  of  earlier  dasrs,  as  well  as  indicative  of  the  mutability  of  human 
affairs. 

The  splendidly  medieval  old  East  Gateway  (Higashi 
O'Temon)  near  the  S.E.  angle  of  the  girdling  wall,  and  through 
which  we  enter  the  castle  grounds  (a  finer  and  more  artistic 
structure  than  the  Kita  O-Temon  at  the  N.  end),  is  approached 
by  a  flat,  pebble-strewn  bridge  spanning  the  Hirv-kawa  —  a 
foul  stream  which  races  madly  along  as  if  anxious  to  hide  its 
soiled  waters  in  those  of  the  sea.  The  gate  itself  is  an  unusu- 
ally ponderous  relic,  iron-strapped  and  practically  covered 
with  huge  iron  bosses  employed  as  constructional  expedients 
to  conceal  the  big  bolt-heads.  The  massive  iron  hinges  and 
the  great  bolts  which  secure  the  gate  resemble  those  of  a 
giant's  keep.  The  upright  timbers  are  set  in  handsome  green 
bronze  sockets;  the  sloping  wall  of  unjointed  but  excellently 
matched  stones  is  less  cyclopean  than  those  of  the  Osaka, 
Nagoya,  or  Toky5  castles,  and  is  surmounted  at  the  angles 
by  graceful  white  turrets,  or  yagurai  with  jaunty,  uptilted 
roofs,  and  overshadowed  by  a  line  of  fantastic  pine  trees 
whose  images  are  reflected  with  startling  clearness  in  the  still 
waters  of  the  moat  (O-hori).  A  symmetrical  line  of  greensward 
runs  along  the  crest  of  the  wall,  above  which  the  tip  of  the 
palace  roof  is  seen.  Unlike  other  Japanese  castles,  which 
usually  stand  on  high  places,  the  Nijo  occupies  a  restricted 
compound  even  with  the  city  floor  and  on  a  level  lower  than 
that  of  the  wall.  The  oflficer  stationed  at  the  postern  chal- 
lenges the  visitor,  who  must  show  his  pass.  If  tms  is  in  order, 
he  is  conducted  to  the  oflfice  just  within,  at  the  right,  where  he 
signs  his  name  in  the  Palace  Register  and  is  assigned  a  guide. 
The  old-gold  screen  in  the  office,  showing  a  fine  black  eagle  in 
a  whirl  of  energy  and  fury,  is  modern. 

The  visitor  is  first  conducted  round  the  comer  of  the  wall 
to  the  regal  Kara-mon  (called  also  Yotsu-ashi-monj  from  the 
4  supporting   pillars),  a  gate  believed  to  have  come  from 
Hideyo8hi*s  palace  at  Momo-yama.    It  is  conspicuous  for  a 
maze  of  gilded  metal-work  and  polychrome  wood-eaW«k%^ 
with  beam-ends  sheathed  in  brass  coveted  m>uii  vB\xvR»Xfc 
tracery  picked  out  in  black,  and  ImpefiaY  l^pe\,«\  <^t3^«»^ 
tbemums.   The  outer  panels  carry  sculptuted  waives,  ^^^«^ 
(cbieffypeomea),  and  butterflies  executed  m  a^pVcvXje^  xa»».- 


468    Route  27,  KYOTO  Nijo  CasOe, 

ner;  the  inner  ones  depict  a  striped  tiger  emerging  from  a 
jungle  to  an  encounter  with  a  glaring-eyed  dragon;  and  a 
shishi  in  the  unusual  attitude  of  scratching  his  ear  with  his 
hind  paw.  The  gray  walls  with  vertical  beams  set  at  intervals 
in  the  plaster,  and  topped  by  a  narrow  tiled  coping,  are  excel- 
lent specimens  of  the  style  called  Suji-bei  (or  hei)  —  lit.,  'lin- 
eage wall ' ;  the  5  stripes  denoting  that  it  is  reserved  to  the 
special  use  of  the  Imperial  Family.  After  passing  through  the 
postern  at  the  right,  one  notes  that  the  inner  side  of  the  gate- 
way is  quite  as  elaborate  as  the  reverse,  with  a  multiplicity 
of  carved  and  multi-colored  phoenixes,  butterflies,  and  folia- 
ted peonies  surrounding  a  Chinese  figure  astride  a  dragon-like 
tortoise.  Its  splendid  character  is  enhanced  by  a  gracefully 
curved  roof  in  the  pure  Shinto  style  of  architecture.  Pea- 
cock-blues, bronze-greens,  and  white  are  the  predominating 
colors. 

The  Palace  Entrance  has  a  porte  cochh-e  called  0  Kuruma- 
yose  and  an  unusually  attractive  double  roof.  The  big  carved 
wood  panel  carrying  five  polychromatic  peacocks  in  high  re- 
lief, standing  or  flying  amid  foliage,  with  the  iridescent  sheen 
of  every  feather  glinting  in  the  sunlight,  is  almost  as  good  as 
the  best  work  of  Hidari  Jingoro.  Shoes  must  be  removed 
(foot  coverings  are  provided)  in  the  spacious  flagged  vesti- 
bule. The  decorative  richness  of  the  apartments  visible  be- 
yond this  is  marred  by  the  clashing  colors  of  the  (modern) 
coffered  ceiling  of  the  corridor  —  which  has  medallion-like 
sculptured  panels  set  into  a  wood  ventilating  grill,  and  floors 
of  polished  Iceyaki. 

The  Imperial  Suite,  called  Yanagi-no-ma  (Willow  Tree 
Rooms),  from  the  yanagi  with  which  it  is  embellished,  has 
some  exceptionally  wide  fiisuma  adorned  with  willows 
(painter  unknown)  on  a  dead-gold  ground;  at  the  left  are 
numerous  friezes  carved  with  peonies.  The  16-petaled  chrys- 
anthemum crests  so  much  in  evidence  were  added  to  those  of 
the  Tokugawa  in  1885.  Each  of  the  sunken  panels  of  the  cof- 
fered ceiling  carries  5  flower  circles  painted  in  brilliant  colors, 
less  handsome  than  those  of  the  adjoining  room,  with  its  clus- 
ters of  grapevines  on  a  gold  ground.  The  pine  trees  here  give 
the  name  Wakamatsu-no-ma  ('young  pine  tree')  to  the  room. 
The  adjoining  apartment  calls  for  no  special  mention. 

The  three  Bamboo  and  Tiger  Rooms  (Takeni  Tora'rKMna)^ 

conspicuous  for  their  grandiose  effect  rather  than  for  artistic 

worth  or  beauty,  are  inclosed  by  a  number  of  huge  sliding 

panels  with  a  background  of  dead  gold;  against  this  an 

effective  bamboo  grove  is  pamled,  Wvtom^Vv  tVie^  ^Um  trees  of 

which  winds  a  succession  oi  biiarte,  Towiv^-erg^^  \a%«^  V^o>> 

in  the  various  attitudes  o!  repose,  V\^\\^xvce,  ^qtc^^X.,  «cA 

^ight.   Between  the  first  CiormerVv  a.  waAXKtv?,-^^^  \^^  «i.tr^ 


NUikCaMle.  KY0TO  fT^.iiM^    4S9 

zarai)  and  second  roonig  mner  larfB^^  bedaeoed  oedar-^jFOoddfijopi 
painted  with  tigere  in  a  baniboo  jungle  on  one  ride,  and  mmei 
Btrange  ^oats  on  the  other.  On  one  of  :the  doors  is  a  bisarre 
Korean  ken  execrably  done  by  Kand  TanyH,  and  pcHnted  out 
with  pride  because  the  eyes  seem  to  regard  one  from  •different 
angles.  The  adjoining  room,  the  Shikidai^nQ'maf  where. the 
Council  of  State  formerly  aaseinbled,  has  a  handsome  oc^ered 
ceiling  on  each  sunken  panel  of  which  are  two  gjold  phoenixes 
with  outspread  wings.  The  painting  of  the  big  pine  la^ee  is  not 
a  masterpiece,  but  the  dainty  little  panels  cusplaying  wild 
geese  flying  against  a  gold  background  are  noteworthy.  In  the 
adjacent  comdor  are  other  cedar  doors  decorated  with  storks 
on  one  side  and  goats,  manifestly  painted  from  memory,  on 
the  reverse;  the  rich  coffered  ceiling  shows  conventional  dec 
signs  on  a  dregs-of-wine  ground,  and  the  metal  cUu^  of  tiie 
joinery  carry  embossed  Tokugawa  crests. 

The  0-HiROBfA,  a  suite  of  8  rooms,  the  3d  of  "which  we  enter 
first,  contains  an  extraordinary  pierced  and  sculptured  ramma 
(above  the  sliding  Wall  screens)  4  by  10  ft.,  clasped  with  rieh^ 
chiseled  .metal  oom^-pieces,  said  to  be  of  one  piete  of  wood, 
and  ascribed  to  Hidari  Jingord;  on  one  side  are  splendid  pea* 
cocks  surrounded  by  pine  twigs  and  f oliage^  and  on  the 
reverse,  groups  of  gorgeous  fSl-blown  peomes  and  other 
flowers,  all  in  hi^h  rdid  and  marvels  of  grace  and  beauty. 
The  skill  with  which  the  artist  has  utilised  the  two  planes  for 
an  entirely  different  composition,  and  the  striking  attitudes  of 
the  birds  —  which  seem  almost  alive  and  ready  for  instant 
flight  —  make  the  object  one  of  the  most  masterly  in  the 
Palace,  and  accounts,  in  a  way,  for  the  reverence  which  Japan* 
ese  attach  to  Jingord^s  memory.  This  panel  alone  will  preserve 
his  name  from  oblivion.  The  room  is  further  emb^lisned  with 
a  number  of  flat,  oblong  kuffikakushi  (employed  as  artistic 
expedients  to  hide  the  bolt  heads)  wrought  m  the  style  of  the 
folded  paper  (used  for  wrapping  up  gifts)  caUed  noshi  (long, 
thin  strip  of  dried  sea-ear  attached  to  a  present  or  served  upon 
a  table  on  ceremonious  occasions)  t  The  surfaces  are  skillfully 
chased  with  phoenixes,  crests,  and  what-not.  On  one  of  the 
fusuma  is  a  virile  and  resplendent  peacock  standing  on  the 
mottled,  moss-flecked  trunk  of  a  pine  tree^  the  persomflcation 
of  grace  and  elegance,  with  its  glorious  tail  blending  with  the 
spots  on  the  trunk,  and  its  iridescent  head,  neck,  and  breast 
shading  into  the  j^een  foliage  above.  The  ramma  between 
this  and  the  adjoining  room,  with  its  seductive  polychrome 
phoenixes  and  full-blown  peonies  in  high  reUef ,  all  splendidly 
executed  and  embellished  with  gold  and  color,  can  be  oefiSL^a 
better  advantage  from  the  other  side. 

The  two  rooms,  called  the  Go  Tahibkjo  (,j^tidV&Ti<cAlSiS^> 
are  In  reality  one;  the  lower  op  outer  paxt  'waa  \^Dfc.O•to^T 
wbere  the  daimyos  or  the  commonalty  WBited\  \Saft  '^ascMr '« 


460    BmOem.  KYOTO  Nijd  CtuBe, 

upper  half  (on  a  slightly  higher  plane),  the  jddan,  where  the 
8hdgun  sat.  The  lovely  old-gold  panel  in  the  upper  left-hsmd 
comer  of  the  gedan,  showing  a  superb  peacock  flying  through 
space  (an  unusual  conception),  is  extraordinarily  chfloming. 
The  rich  panels  adorned  with  monstrous  pine  trees  di^wn 
with  an  aamirable  fidelity  to  nature  by  Kano  TanyUj  shows 
that  artist  at  his  best.  They  should  be  viewed  from  the  lower 
end  of  the  suite.  That  section  which  almost  covers  the  recessed 
waW  of  the  tokonoma  (alcove)  at  the  upper  end  of  the  jodan^ 
and  which  seems  to  stand  out  bodily  from  the  magnificent 
gold  background,  is  bewildering  in  its  effect.  This  has  been 
shrewdly  enhanced  by  the  placmg,  at  the  foot  of  the  tree,  of 
a  finely  sculptured  black  and  white  crane  painted  in  a  start- 
lingly  realistic  manner.  The  ceiling  of  the  jodaUy  with  its 
graceful  central  upsweep,  is  a  s3rmphony  of  red  and  white  and 
blue  and  gold.  The  Damascene  metal  clasps  recall  certain 
of  the  fine  Moslem  work  in  the  Omaiyade  Mosque  at  Damas- 
cus, and  demonstrate  with  what  skill  the  art  of  the  enchaser 
can  be  combined  with  that  of  the  enameler.  At  the  right  of 
the  recess  is  the  customary,  but  in  this  instance  unusually 
graceful,  chigai  dana  (uneven  shelf)  enhanced  by  some  good 
chased  metal  enrichments.  At  its  right  is  the  quasinsecret 
apartment  called  the  mi  chodaiy  where  the  samurai  guards  of 
the  shogun  formerly  stood  unseen  by  those  in  the  audience 
hall;  the  birds  on  the  door  panels  are  the  kinkei  (golden  pheas- 
ant). The  huge  crimson  silk  cords  and  tassels,  Qie  black-lac- 
quered framework  embellished  with  massive  and  richly  chased 
metal  ornaments  showing  phcenixes,  fine  tracery,  and  Tokun 
gawa  crests,  besides  being  effective  and  opulent,  indicate  their 
Imperial  character.  The  gold  panels  of  the  interior,  with  fig- 
ures and  landscapes,  are  mediocre.  Before  leaving  the  tol^ 
noma  note  the  splenaid  floor-beam  of  the  alcove,  a  delight  to 
the  eye  of  an  architect.  It  is  a  beautiful  piece  of  oiled  and 
polished  keyaki,  6  in.  thick,  3  ft.  wide,  18  ft.  long,  and  prac- 
tically indestructible.  The  corridor  which  leads  from  the  O-hU' 
roma  flanks 

The  Landscape  Garden^  designed  by  Kobori  EnshH.  The 
cherry  trees  are  beguiling  m  April,  and  the  maples  in  Nov. 
The  pond,  which  formerly  received  water  from  the  Kamo- 

fawa,  is  now  filled  3  ft.  deep  with  fine  sand  —  a  style  known  as 
Zare-sansui,   The  fantastic  rocks  which  line  the  serpentine 
banks  are  as  curious  as  they  are  costly.  —  The  cedar  doors  at 
the  end  of  the  corridor  are  adorned  with  flowers,  leafage,  and 
bamboos  of  no  merit;  those  opening  on  the  Sotetsurno-maf  or 
8ago  Palm  Koom,  are  ornamented  with  specimens  of  these 
palms.    Formerly  all  the  /usuma  ^et^  ^o  Aftc,QT«Aftd^  but  they 
have  perished  and  have  been  x^pXaCieid  ^VOa.  ^\^^  ^^xi^ 
covered  with  gleaming  gold  io\\.  ^  . 

The  BoTAN-NO-MA,  OT  Peony  ^oom,  \^  p^xUWati^  ^«»- 


Nijd  CasOe.  KYOTO  ST.  RaiOe,    461 

rated  with  full-blown  peonies  badly  done  by  Mr.  Kand^ 
Naonohu,  To  this  artist  (1607-50)  is  also  ascnbed  a  famous 
wooden  door  located  at  the  end  of  the  corridor:  here  the 
visitor  is  solemnly  and  reverently  halted  before  the  crudelv 
drawn  outline  of  a  rude  fishing-boat,  on  the  stem  of  whicn 
stands  a  dejected  white  heron  known  far  and  wide  as  Naonobu 
NO  NURB-BAGi  (NooTiobu's  *  Wet  Heron*).  So  many  writers 
who  have  passed  in  review  before  this  sorry  and  bedraggled 
bird  have  classed  it  as  a  'precious  work  of  art/  and  a  'pnce- 
less  masterpiece/  that  the  traveler  deprived  of  an  artistic 
education,  and  devoid  of  that  special  intelligence  which 
enables  one  to  discern  non-existing  beauty,  stands  before  it 
confused  and  dumb.  According  to  the  Palace  records  the 
original  door  (of  which  the  present  daub  must  be  a  wretched 
copy)  pictured  the  heron  in  a  rainstorm.  When  the  Palace 
was  used  as  the  Kyoto  Prefectural  Office,  the  employees 
thought  so  little  of  Mr,  Naonobu^s  supreme  effort  that  the 
door  was  used  as  a  bulletin-board  ana  was  for  a  long  time 
covered  with  paste  and  announcements^  —  We  now  enter  the 
3d  room  of  the  Kuro-shoin :  the  pine  trees  of  the  upper  pan- 
els of  this  are  the  only  objects  worthy  of  attention.  The  2d 
room  opens  into  the  first  and  forms  the  customary  jodan  and 
gedan.  The  sometime  charming /t^^uma  of  the  latter  are  deco- 
rated with  clouds  of  double  cherry  blossoms  (yaye-zc^ura) 
which  an  unskilled  artist  has  attempted  to  preserve  by  paint- 
ing new  petals  over  the  old  ones.  The  panels  adorned  with 
pheasants,  parrots,  and  other  birds  are  effective,  but  the  land- 
scapes in  the  upper  ones  are  better.  The  finely  coffered  ceiling 
of  the  jodan  displays  phcenixes  with  outspread  wings  whose 
points  touch  and  produce  a  sumptuous  effect  evidently  in- 
spired by  the  ceilings  of  the  Ming  Palaces  at  Pekin.  The 
doves  which  sit  contentedly  on  the  lichen-splashed  trunk  of 
the  great  pine  tree  in  the  alcove  of  the  toko,  show  Naonobu 
in  one  of  his  best  moods.  The  metal-work  on  the  panels  open- 
ing into  the  mi  chodai  ranks  among  the  best  in  the  Palace. 
It  is  indubitably  the  oldest,  for  the  knobs  covering  the  bolt 
heads  are  embellished  with  what  is  reputed  to  be  the  first 
cloisonne  made  in  Japan.  Some  of  the  fitments  are  so  deeply 
incised  (with  Tokugawa  crests  and  what-not),  and  are  maxked 
by  such  grace  and  refinement  that  they  resemble  delicate 
jewelers'  work.  The  crimson  silk  cords  and  tassels  are  unques- 
tionably ancient,  but  the  pheasants  and  double  cherry  blos- 
soms on  the  panels  look  a  bit  too  fresh  to  have  been  painted 
300  yrs.  ago.  There  are  two  chigai-dana  here,  both  charniing 
si>ecimens  of  Japanese  craftsmanship  and  both  embeUi&VkSA. 
with  dainty  metal  fastenings;  those  at  tiie  rigYit  ax^  cwioxa^^ 
chiseled  and  differ  from  the  old  blue  cloiBonn^  aaea  «A»  ^^ 

l^i,    which  carry  small  medallions  with  tke  Bbi5©ra»\  ct««X». 

The  landscapes  on  the  upper  left  paaels  axe  wortti  xioXifla*-  — 


462    Route  ^.  KYOTO  Nijd  Ca^. 

On  the  way  to  the  next  suite  we  pass  a  pair  of  cedar  doors 
handsomely  adorned  with  luxuriant  white  hydrangeas;  and 
still  others  with  camellias  and  peonies,  all  by  Naonohu,  The 
long  narrow  passageway  leads  to 

The  8hiro-sE[oin;  the  gedan,  chudan^  and  jodan  of  which 
are  decorated  in  a  manner  quite  different  from  the  preceding 
rooms;  here  the  fitsuma  are  badly  oxydized  and  subdued  to  a 
patina  of  wan  gold  embellished  with  landscapes  and  Chinese 
scenes  in  sepia;  spiritless  things  by  Kano  Koi.  The  painted 
ceiling  is  old  but  is  still  rich-looking.  One  notes  here  that  the 
Tokugawa  crest  of  the  metal-work  has  been  replaced  by  that 
of  the  16-petaled  chrysanthemum,  in  token  of  the  Imperial 
occupation  of  the  rooms  after  the  fall  of  the  shogunate.  'the 
mi  chodai  is  small  and  dark.  Behind  the  chudan  (or  3d  room 
of  the  suite)  is  a  small  waiting-room  celebrated  for  another 
one  of  those  alleged  masterpieces  about  which  art  critics 
rave,  but  which  remain  a  puzzle  to  the  average  traveler:  the 
panels  are  covered  witji  snow  scenes  effective  enough  in  them- 
selves, while  on  a  snow-laden  branch  of  a  tree  two  faded  little 
tree-sparrows  (called  Nemuri  suzume)  sit  fast  asleep.  The 
sentiment  is  tender^  and  the  picture  is  —  by  Kano  Naonobu. 
The  lover  of  bird  life  will  find  more  to  look  at  in  the  heron 
panel,  hard  by,  —  particularly  in  the  skillful  way  in  which 
one  of  the  three  birds  is  half  hidden  by  the  grass. 

As  a  termination  of  the  inspectiop  of  the  Palace  the  traveler 
is  now  conducted  back  to  the  entrance,  along  an  interior  cor- 
ridor flanking  the  rear  of  the  rooms  already  described;  some 
of  the  cedar  doors  are  elaborately  ornamented  with  paintings 
of  geese,  ducks,  and  other  birds.  The  Chrysanthemum  Room 
(kikyrno-ma)  has  a  number  of  panels  embellished  with  this 
Imperial  flower;  and  a  rich  coffered  ceiling.  The  Palm  Room 
is  recrossed  to  reach  the  Eagle  Room  (washi-ruMna)j  which 
has  some  regal  pictures  of  eagles  and  pine  trees  —  excellent 
work  by  Kano  Tanya.  The  ceiling  should  be  noticed,  as  it  is 
a  beautiful  combination  of  nature  and  art,  and  is  one  of  the 
loveliest  things  in  the  Palace.  Each  of  the  78  sunken  panels 
carries  a  gola  j^eacock  on  a  copper-green  ground;  each  bird 
forms  an  exauisite  picture  by  itself;  and  each,  painted  in  an  at- 
titude slightly  different  from  the  others,  is  an  integral  part  in 
an  ensemble  of  extraordinary  richness.  The  R6ju-no-B£a,  or 
room  for  Ministers  of  State  (Gordju),  has  some  superb  wild- 
geese  panels  by  Naonohu,  and  opposite  them  some  cedar  doors 
painted  almost  as  skillfully.  The  motives  extend  to  the  ad- 
joining Gan-no-ma  (Goose  Room),  where  the  panels  are  all 
covered  with  gold  foil  and  figures  of  wild  geese  flying,  feeding, 
or  in  watchful  attitudes.  The  White  Heron  Room  (Sagi-no' 
ma)  18  respJendent  with  go\d  pwQft\a  ^o^R\si^^\:i!iXfc\!«5tatsa  and 
trecB.  —  A  corridor  leads  bebind  VXi^  ^kasa^  %j.^  '^qie^ 
RooMB    to  the  CHOKuam-NO-^ix,  ot  \cd.^«\s\  \li5»«a%«s^ 


Higaahi  Hotigimnji.  KYOTO  £7.  Rotde.    463 

Room,  a  vast  chamber  repaired  in  1912.  The  big  gold  panels 
depict  a  forest  of  hinohi  and  other  trees,  whose  great  branches 
spread  almost  round  the  room.  On  the  wall  of  the  recess  is  a 
splendid  maple  tree  whose  green  leaves  are  just  tmning  to 
crimson  —  with  a  beguiling  effect.  The  maple  design  is 
repeated  on  the  sliding  panels  of  the  mi  chodaij  tjie  wood- 
work of  which  is  oiled  keyaki  instead  of  lacquer,  enriched  by 
some  very  attractive  metal-work.  The  finely  polished  wood 
base  of  the  alcove  consists  of  a  solid  piece  of  faultless  keyaki, 
—  The  traveler  leaves  the  Palace  inclosure  by  the  gate 
through  which  he  entered. 

The  *Higashi  Hongwanji  (PI.  C,  5),  or  Eastern  Temple  of 
the  Hongwanji  or  Otani  branch  of  the  Monto  sect  of  Buddhists 
(p.  cxcix),  a  splendid  new  structure  230  ft.  long,  195  deep,  and 
126  high,  dates  from  1895,  cost  (perhaps)  7  miuion  yen,  and  is 
one  of  the  largest  temple  buildings  in  Japan.  Ninety-six  huge, 
time-defying  keyaki  pillars  support  the  great  upsweeping  tiled 
roof,  which  is  a  conspicuous  object  in  the  S.  quarter  of  the 
city,  where  it  stands  within  5  min.  walk  (E.)  of  the  Nishi 
Hongwanjij  of  which  it  is  a  sturdy  offshoot. 

When  the  forceful  and  vindictive  Oda  Nobunaga  was  busily  engaged  in 
routing  the  militant,  pederastic  priests  out  of  their  fortified  nests  in  and 
about  Kydto,    Kennio    Kosa,  the  then   (11th)   head  of  the    Hongwanji 
Temple^  togetjier  with  his  son  Kdju,  incurred  his  displeasure  and  they  were 
obliged  to  flee  and  defend  themselves  in  a  strongly  fortified  monastery  at 
Osaka ;  where  they  successfully  withstood  a  5  years'  siege  directed  against 
them  by  Sakuma  Nobumori,  at  that  time  —  1580  —  in  the  great  Shdgun*8 
service.  Because  of  his  failure  to  extirpate  Kosa,  Nobumori  was  disgraced 
and  exiled  to  Koya-san,  where  he  died.   Toyotomi  Hideyoshi  (who  succeeded 
Nobunaga)  was  so  vexed  at  Kdsa*s  vainglorious  obstinacy  that  he  selected 
another  of  his  sons,  Kocho,  as  the  ruling  head  of  the  sect,  but  when  the 
invincible  leyasu  (who  succeeded  Hideyoshi)  came  into  unexampled  power 
as  the  first  Tokugawa  shogun,  he   recalled   Kdju  and  erected  for  him  (in 
1602)  another  temple  a  short  distance  E.  of  the  main  one,  and  called  it  the 
Higaahi,  or  East  Hongwanji.   The  division  of  the  great  and  powerful  sect 
dates  from  that  period;  the  East  became  the  new  branch,  and  the  West  the 
old  trunk.   The  former  was  burned  four  times  between  1602  and  1874.  The 
present  structure  was  begun  in  1879  and  was  completed  and  dedicated  in 
1895.  When  the  call  went  out  for  contributions  the  devotees  responded  with 
true  Japanese  enthusiasm.    Those  who  had  no  money  to  give  gave  stone 
and  lumber  (to  the  value  of  over  a  million  yen),  or  their  time;  and  the  hum- 
blest peasant  made  some  personal  sacrifice  to  aid  the  great  cause.  The  ever 
devoted  and  self-sacrificing  women  sheared  off  their  raven  tresses  and  from 
them  were  made  29  immense    hawsers  (called  kezuna,  or  '  human-hair 
ropes')  with  which  the  ponderous   pillars   and   beams  were  hoisted  into 
place!   The  longest  of  these  unique  cables  is  said  to  have  measured  200  ft., 
and  to  have  been  16  in.  in  circumference.   Smaller  ones  (90  ft.  long  and  9 
in.  in  circumf.)  are  preserved  and  shown  as  faded  but  significant  symbols 
of  how  deeply  rooted  in  the  Japanese  heart  are  the  gentle  teachings  of 
Siddartha.  — The  temple  contains  but  few  genuinely  old  art  treasures,  as  its 
former  rich  possessions  have  been  destroyed  in  the  fires  which  seemingly 
have  scourged  it  with  sinister  persistence.    Its  chief  interest  Uqa  m  V\a 
splendid    and  satisfying  proportions.^    The   main   temiitVe,  Da\ftK\-d5,  «t 
Founder's  HaJJ,  is  somewhat  unusual  in  that  it  has  a  do\Mj\e  xool — N«\a^N* 
maid  to  cover  45, 000  sq.  ft.   The  vast  auditory  containB  &^  wA\.  "nx^  ■a»\A 
^aoli  3  by  6  ft.,  and  the  great  chancel  extendB  aVous  its  erAarc^  \c«m^3eu     '^ 
noteworthy  and  pleasing  feature  is  the  comparative  abaeiwse  ol  VXve  vd^b^^" 


464    Rauie  27.  -    _  KYOTO  Higaahi  Hongwamji, 

roiu  tinsel  which  violates  the  sobriety  of  so  many  of  the  Japanese  temples. 
Unlike  tiiat  of  the  Niahi  Hongtoanji,  the  Amida^d  (about  t  the  siae  of  Uie 
tutndd)  here  stands  at  the  left  of  the  main  temple  and  is  linked  thereto  by  a 
covered  corridor.  Both  structures  follow  the  accepted  model  of  the  fanes  of 
the  extensive  Hongwanji  sect,  and  are  extremely  good  architectural  ex- 
pressions of  modem  Buddhism,  as  well  as  of  the  conspicuous  skill  of  tiie 
native  crt^tsmen.  Some  of  the  modem  wood  sculptures  are  almost  the 
equals  of  the  best  achievements  of  Jingord  and  other  early  masters. 

Travelers  bearing  special  permits  should  present  these  at  the  office 
abutting  on  the  abbot's  apartments  at  the  right,  where  a  special  giiide  will 
be  assigned  them  and  permits  issued  for  an  inspection  of  the  villa  and 
garden  —  both  outside  the  temple  compound  and  customarily  not  shown. 
The  bonxe  conducts  the  visitor  first  through  the  abbot's  suite,  —  chastely 
beautiful  rooms  adorned  with  modem  pictures  and  statues,  —  thence  to  the 
special  reception  room  set  apart  for  the  Emperor  or  other  Imperial  visitors. 
It  faces  the  Chokuahimon,  referred  to  hereinafter,  and  is  decorated  in  exqui- 
site taste;  purely  Japanese,  extraordinarily  rich  but  refined,  and  char- 
acterised by  a  notable  i>ropriety.  The  splendid  fuauma  are  hand-painted, 
embellished,  with  Imperial  crimson  silk  tassels,  and  further  enriched  with 
hammered  metal-work  almost  covered  with  heavy  gold  foil.  The  wood 
employed  in  its  construction  is  the  quasi-reli^ous  Ohamacyparia  obtusa,  of 
which  all  Shinto  shrines  are  built.  At  one  side  of  the  suite  is  a  delicately 
beautiful  and  charming  landscape  garden  in  the  formal  Japanese  style, 
redolent  of  flowers  and  filled  with  maples  which  seem  to  glow  more  deeply 
than  usual  at  being  the  objects  of  Imperial  criticism. 

Ordinarily  visitors  cross  the  stone  bridge  spanning  the  little 
moat  and  penetrate  the  vast  atrium  (inclosed  by  a  nigh  wall) 
through  the  central  or  Great  Gate,  a  noble,  two-stori^  struc- 
ture finished  in  the  natural  (keyaki)  wood  and  enriched  by  a 
wealth  of  carvings  and  metal-work  covered  with  mediseval 
tracery.  Twelve  immense  and  beautifullv  grained  keyaki  pil- 
lars set  in  splendidly  embossed  copper-bronze  sockets  rest- 
ing on  granite  bases,  and  each  2  ft.  or  more  in  diameter,  — 
mighty  beams  that  suggest  herculean  strength  and  solidity,  — 
support  the  bulky  superstructure,  which  is  a  maze  of  carved 
and  pierced  panels  and  white-eyed,  glowering  dragons  in  high 
relief.  The  sturdy  tie-beams  are  covered  with  arabesques  and 
conventional  designs,  carved  with  a  delicacy  unlooked  for  in 
BO  gross  a  medium,  while  the  brass  enrichments  of  the  pands 
resemble  lace  or  similar  work.  Sculptured  groups  of  Chinese 
sages  sit  in  airy  security  along  the  beams;  only  the  newness 
of  which,  and  the  fresh  tinge  of  the  unweathered  wood,  en- 
abling the  casual  eye  to  distinguish  the  carvings  from  some  of 
the  best  work  of  the  old  school.  Huge  brass  lanterns  swing 
before  the  passageway,  which  is  defended  by  three  pairs  of 
great  doors,  each  strikiiigly  embellished  with  black  metal  fit- 
ments. The  grandiose  proportions  of  the  structure  are  en- 
hanced by  the  two  subsidiary  buildings  at  the  right  and  left, 
where  the  stairs  conducting  to  the  upper  story  (with  an  altar 
and  a  statue  of  Amida-biUsu  and  his  disciples)  begin.  The 
inner  side  of  the  gate  is  a  replica  of  the  outer,  excepting  that 
the  involved  dragon  which  glares  down  from  its  wire  cage 
baa  gilded  anteimae,  and  b\\ie  e>jeB  -^Ytfisa  ^t.^x^»&vs&.  ^c^Ciens 
hia  minatory  mien.  All  tYie  conipo\3Ji^  \st«*^^\a  «»  v^^^ 
out  in  white;  the  great  equate  bewoa  ^\aRV  >o«t  >(Saa  i^\fi^ 


Higaahi  Hangtoanji.  EYOTO  i7.  Bauk.    465 

sxe  those  of  a  giant's  keep.  The  brilliant  but  restless  little 
sate  (a  gift  to  the  temple  from  two  Nagoya  millionaires), 
a  few  hundred  ft.  at  the  right,  is  the  Chokuahimon  (called 
^so  KikvriKMnon,  from  the  16-petal  chrysanthemums  on  the 
lower  panels),  and  is,  as  its  name  implies,  reserved  for  Im- 
perial use.  The  heavily  shingled  {hinoki  bark)  roof,  in  the 
pure  Shinto  style,  is  its  handsomest  feature.  This  is  repeated 
in  the  surpassingly  rich  and  attractive  gate  at  the  left,  fac- 
ing the  Amida-dd,  and  called  Amidordd-^monf  or  Gate  to  the 
XIaJl  of  Buddha.  It  is  almost  covered  with  brass  enrich- 
ments, conspicuous  among  which  (on  the  panels)  is  the  Im- 
perial kiku  crest  of  the  Emperor,  and  the  Patdownia  imperialia 
of  his  consort.  The  fine  peahen  over  the  middle  beam,  the 
lotus  flowers,  and  the  Buddhist  angels  are  all  excellently 
carved. 

The  colossal  proportions  of  the  temple  are  seen  to  good 
advantage  from   the  main   gateway,  a  curiously  medueval 
effect  being  imparted  by  the  bizarre  turtles  with  dragon  heads 
which  serve  as  antefixes  at  the  ends  of  the  porch  roof.   The 
several  big  bronze  lanterns,  and  the  handsome  water-basin  of 
lotus-leaf  design  in  the  yard,  are  worth  looking  at;  likewise 
the  immense  sculptured  Korean  lion,  high  up  under  the  ridge- 
pole of  the  temple,  covered  with  a  metal  network  to  protect  it 
from  the  pigeons.   The  belfry  looks  too  diminutive  to  be  an 
adjunct  of  the  big  fane.   Sculptured  groups  of  fat  and. jolly 
Cmnese  sa^es  sit  astride  the  cross-beams  of  the  wide  porch 
with  its  polished  black-lacquer  floor,  the  beam  terminals  being 
formed  of  expertly  carved  elephant  heads  distinctively  East 
Indian  in  their  suggestiveness.    The  immense  central  beam, 
a  marvel  of  length  and  girth,  indicates  the  size  attained  by 
the  great  keyaki  trees  of  Japanese  forests.  The  mighty  beams 
of  the  exterior  carry  other  groups  of  excellent  sculptures  — ■ 
tigers,  unicorns,  Dogs  of  Fo,  dragons,  cranes,  andv  what-not  — 
which  extend  quite  around  the  structure.   Bronze  wind-bells 
that  tinkle  in  the  slightest  breeze  pend  from  the  eaves,  and 
a  pale  light  sifts  into  the  interior  through  the  paper  shoji  serv- 
ing as  the  movable  outer  wall. 

The  Interior  (42  ft.  wide  by  66  deep),  is  divided  into  a 
wide  central  nave  flanked  by  four  lateral  ones  27  by  66  ft. 
Sixteen  immense  keyaki  pillars  and  numerous  pilasters  of  the 
same  wood  support  the  great  roof  with  its  coffered  ceiling. 
More  than  a  thousand  worshipers  a  day  are  said  to  pass 
through  this  vast  interior,  the  most  noteworthy  features  of 
which  are  the  finely  chiseled  and  gilded  panels  of  the  archi- 
trave, each  displaying  mythological  howo  and  a.u%<^  o1  >3sis^ 
Buddhist  heaven.    The  reliquaxy  is  a  sYilinnienii^  tdsx^^  ^'^ 
|p/c/-  and  black-lacquer,  enshrining  a  carved  Nvood  ^©axei  ^^ 
^KensAtn-Daishi  said  to  have   been  made  by  Yas  o^mx  >aa»^» 
The  great  Bupporting  piUars  are  heavily  coaled  ^YtVxVAaJ^- 


466    Route  27,  KYOTO  Niahi  Hmgwanji. 

lacquer  and  superimposed  gilded  metal  emichments;  the  lotus 
wall-panels  in  gold  are  by  modern  artists,  as  are  also  the  groups 
of  well-carved  flowers,  waves,  and  other  designs  above  them. 
The  gilded  ramma  above  the  altar  —  4  carrying  phoenixes 
arid  7  sculptured  angels  in  high  relief  —  are  extraordinarily 
rich  specimens  of  the  sculptor's  art. 

The  Amida-d6  is  less  brilliant  than  the  konddy  but  the  carved 
panels  of  phoenixes  are  worth  seeing.  A  pile  of  the  hair-ropes, 
referred  to  above,  may  be  seen  in  the  connecting  corridor. 
The  figure  on  the  altar  is  Amida-butsu,  —  Leaving  the  Amida- 
do  one  is  conducted  (5  min.  walk)  to  the  Kikokutei  (abbot's 
villa)  a  handsome  formal  Japanese  garden  E.  of  the  temple, 
where  the  abbot  takes  his  recreation.  Among  the  minor  at- 
tractions is  a  Moon  Lake,  some  picturesque  arched  bridges, 
and  a  meandering  brook,  some  summer  houses  with  cha-no-yu 
apartments,  a  miniature  tea  plantation^  and  many  plum, 
cherry,  pine,  and  maple  trees.  Overlookmg  the  pond  where 
tame  fish  come  up  to  be  fed,  one  is  regaled  with  tea  in  a  room 
which  the  Emperor  has  graced  with  his  presence. 

The  *Nishi  (West)  Hongwanji  (comp.  p.  cxcix)  a  widely 
celebrated  Buddhist  temple  (one  of  the  finest  in  Kyoto)  in 
the  S.W.  quarter  (PI.  C,  5),  10  min.  walk  from  the  Kyoto 
Station  (jinriki,  15  sen)  and  40  min.  (fare,  40  sen)  from  the 
Miyako  Hotely  is  within  2  min.  walk  of  the  tramway  and  5  min. 
W.  of  its  rich  and  powerful  offshoot,  the  Higashi  Hongwanji 
described  above.  It  is  often  referred  to  by  art  critics  as  the 
most  perfect  existing  example  of  Buddhist  art  in  Japan,  and 
the  traveler  with  but  little  time  at  his  disposal  will  do  welJ 
to  forego  some  of  the  minor  temples  and  to  devote  more  time 
to  this  one.  It  is  a  superb  reliquary  of  Japanese  applied  art, 
and  in  the  way  of  varied  adornment  occupies  the  first  rank 
among  the  temples  of  the  Empire. 

While  the  m&in  temple  is  open  free  (fees  unnecessary)  to  visitors  at  all 
times,  the  Apartments  of  the  Abbot  (who  is  of  high  lineage),  wherein  are 
grouped  the  art  treasures  for  which  the  institution  is  renowned,  and  which 
most  travelers  to  Kydto  will  wish  to  see,  are  shown  by  the  courtesy  of  the 
priests  —  certain  of  whom  speak  a  little  English.  If  ecclesiastical  ceremon- 
ies are  in  progress,  or  prominent  visitors  are  being  entertained  in  the  apart- 
ments, casual  visitors  may  have  to  wait  their  turn  or  postpone  visits.  Later 
appointments  can  be  made  by  telephone.  The  association  is  powerful  and 
respected,  and  the  priests  resent  being  commanded  to  conduct  travelers 
through  the  buildings  at  unpropitious  times.    The  temple-office  (and 
official  entrance  to  the  apartments)  is  at  the  extreme  S.W.  comer  of  the 
wide  inclosure  and  is  reached  through  a  narrow  walled-in  lane  leading  from 
the  S.E.  comer.  No  entrance  fee  is  exacted,  but  a  small  gratuity  (50  ten  or 
¥1  for  a  person  or  a  party  is  ample)  will  not  be  refused  by  the  attendant 
who  conducts  one  about.   Financial  difficulties  which  arose  in  1913  forced 
the  governors  of  the  vast  organization  to  auction  ofiF  heirlooms  and  other 
treasures  to  the  value  of  several  hundred  thousand  yen.  But  as  these  were 
cbieAy  autographs  oi  notables,  aT^ic\«A  oi  v^t«ohsa.V  >xBe  of  ehdgutu  and 
emperors,  and  a  few  rare  screena  andlcdkemouoaXs^  c^^-^5^QK\vl!^a^]&«hon.t 
whom  the  average  traveler  is  not  aVway^  ^ioxvcfct\i^A,^iJs»  \.<s«^^"^>«A 
the  estabUahment  may  be  said  to  <«>ii^J»ie  ^^^:»«»^-  ^wS:^J^. 
^iect  to  aee  the  admirable  apaitmenta  tofc,  ^Xx^TivMs»«^N.^^^MaiSKM«sa^ 


Nishi  HmQwanji.  KYOTO  £7.  fiotite.    467 

if  time  allows.  Several  of  the  greatest  artists  of  the  famous  Kan6  school 
Cp.  ccxxvii)  took  part  in  the  decoration  of  both  groups,  and  perhaps  no- 
-v^here  can  the  peculiar  style  and  the  artistic  impress  of  these  early  masters 
l>e  studied  to  greater  advantage.  While  at  the  superb  Nikkd  and  Shiba  Mau- 
solea  the  finest  achievements  are  expressed  in  glyptic  ornamentation  and 
In  gold-lacquer  and  gold  foil  laid  on  pillars  and  walls,  here  the  painter's  art 
lias  been  given  greater  prominence.  The  decorative  splendor  of  the  rooms 
culminates  on  sliding  panels  and  screens  enhanced  by  magnificent  gold 
backgrounds  so  wonderfully  subordinated  to  the  scenes  traced  upon  their 
surfaces  that  the  glittering  gold  always  seems  to  remain  light  and  discreet 

a  prodigy  which  a  celebrated  art  critic  {M.  Qaaton  Migeon,  Conservator 

of  the  Louvre  Museum)  believes  'no  other  people  could  have  accomplished 
m.n  compositions  of  such  size.'  The  singular  charm  of  some  of  this  finest 
-^vork  is  subtly  recessive  and  thus  characteristically  Japanese,  and  to  the 
casual  eye  it  is  not  always  apparent  at  the  first  glance;  but  a  careful  and 
<letailed  study  of  the  motives  brings  out  their  suggestive  Oriental  charm 
and  reveals  beauty,  grace,  and  poetic  conception.  The  pierced  ramma  of 
-the  apartments  are  among  the  finest  in  Japan.  Scarcely  less  interesting,  in 
WL  way,  are  the  massive  sUding  doors  of  cedar  wood,  usually  made  of  one 
piece,  richly  painted,  and  embellished  with  metal  adornments.  They  are 
supposed  to  have  come  from  Hideyoahi's  famous  Peace  Palace,  and  the  beat 
-workmen  of  that  remote  era  devoted  their  talent  to  the  fashioning  of  them. 
The  fane  expresses  the  highest  taste  in  Buddhist  temple  construction. 

Approaching  the  temple  office  from  the  S.  one  passes,  at 
the  left,  the  Seminary  (a  rambling  white  building  back  in  a 
yard)  for  young  priests,  and  enters  the  sacred  inclosure  through  • 
the  plain  Daidokor(Mnonf  or  Kitchen  Gate,  so  called  from  the 
proximity  of  the  temple  kitchen.  The  closed  gate  at  the  right 
IS  the  Chokvshi-monf  used  formerly  by  Imperial  personages 
or  their  couriers.  The  Japanese  like  to  call  this  tottering 
relic  the  Hp-guraski-no-mony  or  *  Sunrise  till  Dark  Gate,'  because 
they  think  an  entire  day  may  be  spent  profitably  in  the  study 
of  its  amazing  detail.  The  sometime  superb  wood-carving 
of  Chinese  on  prancing  horses,  of  dragons,  mythological  ani- 
mals, flowers,  and  foliage,  are  (perhaps  unwarrantedly)  attri- 
buted to  Hidari  Jingoro,  —  The  sacerdotal  apartments  are 
divided  into  small  groups  opening  into  one  another  or  con- 
nected by  polished  *  nightingale'  floors  (p.  clxxx)  which  emit 
plaintive  squeaks  at  every  footfall.  Nearly  all  the  rooms  bear 
the  names  of  the  principal  decorative  motive  employed  in 
them.  The  best  are  not,  as  one  might  think,  inhabited  by  the 
priests  or  the  abbot,  but  are  sumptuously  adorned  reception- 
rooms  convertible  into  sleeping-chambers,  which  were  used 
by  the  sovereign,  the  shoguriy  or  other  notables. 

The  visitor  is  conducted  first  to  the  Sparrow  Room,  which 
(beside  the  temple  register)  contains  some  old-gold  screens 
and  wall-panels  decorated  with  sparrows,  chrysanthemums, 
and  bamboos  by  Maruyama  Ozui  (18th  cent.).  The  numerous 
sunken  panels  of  the  coffered  ceiling  marked  by  metal  enrich- 
ments at  the  joints  and  corners  carry  each  a  gilded  diat 
on  which  various  flowers  are  painted  in  a  p\efiia\ii\e,  xaajMsfcX^ 
The  well-preserved  old  sliding  cedar  doors  ol  ampVe  ^xofc^- 
aions  In  the  near-by  corridor  are  painted  by  YosYiimuTa  KV 
>fo«,  and  on  one  side  show  eagles  and  on  the  ot\iet  a  «»aR»^^' 


» 


46S    Bovle  ST.  KYOTO 

Those  at  the  end  of  the  hallway,  displaying  a  t 

face  and  a  flower-cart  and  badtet  of  flowers  o_ , 

are  about  260  yra,  old  and  were  decorated  by  Kand  Eyoisei. 
The  first  room  at  the  right,  the  Wild  Goobe  Cbambbr,  bae 
fine  but  somewhat  dimmed  gold  Bcreena  with  briUiantly 
painted  and  ekillfully  grouped  wild  geese  in  various  attitudes 
—  flying,  feeding,  nesting,  watching,  etc,;  above  (at  the  left) 
is  a  Huperb  pierced  and  sculptured  ventilating  panel  (a  master- 
piece by  Ryokei,  who  also  painted  the  dainty  ulematis  on  the 
handsome  coffered  ceiliugl  showing  the  same  splendid  biids 
flying  through  gold-tipped,  drifting  clouds.  The  rising  mooD 
in  the  adjoining  chamber  id  so  placed  that,  by  viewing  the 
Tamma  from  a  certain  angle,  an  effect  of  geese  winging  thdr 
swift  flight  across  the  face  of  this  distant  orb  is  produced  — 
B  favorite  theme  with  native  artists.  The  vistals  one  of  singu- 
lar charm  and  should  not  be  mlBsed. 

The  Chrtbanthbmum  Room  has  screens  adorned  with  the 
Imperial  kiku  and  other  Japanese  flowers  (painted  by  Kaihoku 
Yueetsu  about  1690),  and  a  group  of  fans  on  each  muiken  panel 
of  the  ceiling.  The  cedar  doors  at  the  end  of  the  short  passage- 
way are  embellished  with  civet-cats  and  sago  palms  on  one 
aide,  and  horses  and  pine  trees  by  KanB  /fwfc/Krftu  (17th  cent.) 
on  the  reverse.  In  the  anteroom  of  the  following  suite  the 
upper  panels  are  painted  (by  KanS  K6i,  and  Yuselau)  with 
Boraewnat  exaggerated  Chinese  fans.  On  the  face  of  the  cedar 
doors  are  full-blown  peonies  under  which  a  cat  sits  doKing; 
and  on  the  reverse,  some  willow  trees  and  snowy  herons  by 
KanO  Rymaku  (17th  cent.). 

The  Peacock  Room,  one  of  the  most  attractive  of  thv 
group,  is  noteworthy  for  its  panels  adorned  with  superb  pea- 
fowls inuU  thegloryof  outspread  tails  painted  with  extraordin- 
ary realism  and  harmony;  the  white  peahen  standing  beneath 
ttie  grand  old  double-blossom  cherrv  tree  is  the  acme  of  grace 
and  beauty.  The  two  pieroed  and  gilded  ramma  in  colors, 
with  foliated  peonies  and  mythological  phceoixes,  are  by 
KanO  K6i.  The  handsome  coffered  ceiling  is  decorated  in  con- 
ventional designs.  The  upper  panels  (by  Yu»elsu)  of  the  ad- 
jacent corridor,  representing  an  autumnal  field  covered  with 
tall  graaa  in  Musanhi  Proinvicc,  remind  the  Japanese  that  in 
that  locality  the  moon  always  sets  behind  a  gray  moor.  — 
There  are  many  figures,  a  cart,  some  mt.  goats,  ducks,  and 
what-not  represented  on  the  screens  of  the  2d  room  of  the  pea- 
cock suite,  conspicuous  among  them  a  Chinese  Court  scene, 
with  many  notables  in  the  foreground.  A  superb  screen  shows 
three  graceful  white  cranes  standing  on  a  rock  rising  out  of 
the  water,  and  two  wild  A\icV,ft  ft^^^ft  down  tothem.  The 
carved  wistaria  on  the  openwork  ramma  tamieft'OE^'CQatwaa 
witb  the  adjoining  one  is  Buds  ^^  4di'ai.\^^  tWst&,!ia^ 
Gan  be  seen  to  better  advaaUa?  liQ^a  \,\ie  "-C^^  ««ife.  ^^ 


Niaki  Hongvoanji.  KYOTO  27.  BouU.    469 

zoom,  a  large  and  resplendent  one,  has  some  good  screens 
X)ortra3dng  assemblies  at  the  Mongol  Court,  with  brilliant 
processions  of  courtiers,  court  dames,  and  Hie  like,  extending 
in  progressive  continuity  quite  round  it.  At  the  extreme  left, 
in  the  recess,  is  a  series  of  4  small  sliding  panels,  richly  adorned 
with  purple  silk  tassels  and  chased  metal  fastenings  with  lions, 
I)eonies,  and  similar  designs  intricately  interwoven  on  their 
surfaces.  The  larger  upper  panel  carries  a  dainty  landscape 
desi^  by  Kano  Koi;  the  others  show  the  gate  to,  and  the 
interior  of,  a  palace  of  an  early  Chinese  emperor.  The  suite 
is  often  called  the  Shiro-join  and  manv  royal  personages  have 
been  lodged  here;  at  present  it  is  used  by  the  abbot  in  which 
to  receive  persons  of  distinction.  The  stones  of  the  small  court 
here  are  seen  to  be  arranged  with  a  curious  regularity;  the 
stage  facing  the  corridor  is  used  for  Nd  dances.  Proceeding 
along  the  corridor,  we  come  to  a  pair  of  cedar  doors  with  a  dog 
and  a  chair  on  one  side  and  dnuns  (by  Kand  Ryotaku)  on  the 
other,  then  enter  a  small  room  called 

The  CouKT  Dressing-Room  {ahdzoku-no-md)';  all  the 
spirited  panels  were  painted  by  Yuaetsu  and  depict  ancient 
hunting  scenes,  on  a  gold  background.  The  cedar  doors  are 
also  by  him;  the  basket  is  of  the  special  type  used  for  carry-  * 
ing  burdens  on  the  shoulders;  the  painting  on  the  reverse 
describes  the  historic  struggle  between  Taira  Atsumori  and 
Kumagaya  Naozane  (p.  441.).  A  pretty  little  garden  with 
a  sotetsu  palm  in  the  center  is  visible  from  the  left  of  the  cor- 
ridor. It  is  ascribed  to  Asagiri  Shimanosuke  and  is  said  to  be 
a  copy  of  a  famous  Chinese  garden  in  the  Middle  Kingdom. 
Provisional  stages  were  anciently  erected  here,  and  the  classic 
No  dance  rehearsed  in  view  of  visiting  notables.  The  books 
and  scrolls  on  the  ceiling  and  the  wistaria  on  the  corridor  panels 
are  by  Yusetsu.  The  sliding  doors  at  the  end,  with  maple  trees, 
deer,  and  dragons,  are  attributed  to  Yoshimura  RanahU 
(18th  cent.). 

The  Stork  Chamber  (fco-no-wia),  the  finest  and  largest  of 
the  apartments,  and  where  the  decorative  splendor  culminates, 
is  of  noble  proportions  and  exceptional  merit.    Double  lines 
of  severely  plain  keyaki  columns  divide  it  into  three  wide 
aisles,  at  the  top  of  the  central  one  of  which  is  a  dais,  on  which 
Toyotomi  Hideyoshi  used  to  sit  and  hold  his  famous  councils 
(from  which  circumstance  the  room  is  often  called  the  Coun- 
cil Room)  guarded  by  silent  samurai  crouching  in  the  stuflfy 
closet  with  handsome  metal-clasped  doors,  at  the  left.  The  five 
Bculptured  polychrome  ramma  of  cranes  and  reeds,  above  the 
dais/  rank  among  the  finest  of  Hidari  Jingor6^%  iii8A\i€d\i\\iK^ 
ductions.   ThepaiDting  (about  10  by  20  it.")  on  VJaaAaw^'^^ 
€}£  the  recess  or  tokonomaf  one  of  Kanb  TaTi]/<l'aiiiae\i^MidafiR» 
works  (executed  about  1650)  and  indubitably  on.^  oi  ^<b>ow^ 
tilings  jn  Kyoto,  Bbows  the  Chinese  Minister  ot  ^\*^Ve,  CWum^* 


470    Route  27.  KYOTO  Niahi  Hongvimii. 

presenting  the  four  sages  to  Keiteiy  an  emperor  of  the  Han 
Dynasty.  The  terrace  overlooks  a  stately  park,  through  the 
groves  of  which  picturesque  mediaeval  figures,  in  quaint  cos- 
tumes and  full  of  subduied  action  and  Oriental  splendor,  paas 
to  and  fro.  In  few  of  his  pictures  has  Tanyu  shown  his  ad- 
mirable talent  to  finer  effect;  the  colors  harmonize  excellently 
well  witii  the  tonic  value  of  the  background;  the  composition 
and  arrangement  are  characteristically  Sino-Japanese,  and  the 
whole  is  *  developed  with  a  breadth  and  facility  which  recall 
Veronese.'  Other  scenes  of  similar  import,  also  by  TanyUy  en- 
rich this  remarkable  room,  the  fine  coffered  ceiling  of  which 
(by  Rydkei)  has  161  sunken  panels,  each  adorned  with  a 
painted  phcenix  differing  slightly  from  its  neighbor.  The 
cranes  and  pine  and  plum  trees  on  the  sliding  panels  of  the 
two  sides  of  the  room  are  also  Ryok&Cs  work,  excepting  the  six 
new  ones  which  replaced  the  old  faded  ones  in  the  left  comer. 
Facing  the  entrance  is  another  dancing-stage  so  arranged  that 
on  the  occasion  of  some  unusually  splendid  gathering  the 
shoji  could  be  pushed  aside  and  the  peif  ormance  could  be  wit- 
nessed by  the  company  in  the  hall. 

Visitors  are  customarily  turned  back  here,  as  the  succeeding 

'  apartments  are  of  little  interest.  The  most  prominent  among 
them  is  the  Taiko  Kubi-jikken-no-ma,  or  room  where  Hide- 
yoshi  received  the  faithful  servitors  who  brought  in  the  heads 
of  slain  enemies  for  verification;  the  wave  patterns  on  the 
sliding  panels,  and  the  war-drums  on  the  ceiling  are  by  Kand 
Eitoku.  The  Tiger  Room  has  some  badly  faded  old  wood 
panels  (by  Eitoku)  adorned  with  tigers  that  stalk  stealthily 
through  bamboo  jungles.  The  pierced  ramma  in  the  Wave 
Room  (nami-no-ma)  showing  grapes  and  squirrels,  have  been 
too  hastily  attributed  to  Hviari  Jingoro.  Note  that  the  out- 
lines of  the  waves  on  the  72  sunken  panels  of  the  ceiling  all 
differ.  There  are  two  other  tiger  rooms  and  a  number  of 
smaller  ones  of  no  interest.  —  Unless  the  visitor  asks  the  bonze 
to  accompany  him  on  through  the  main  temple,  he  will  prob- 
ably be  reconducted  hence  to  the  entrance  of  the  apartments 
and  expected  to  enter  the  temple  compound  through  the  E. 
gate. 

Whosoever  approaches  the  structure  from  this  direction 
finds  himself  facing  a  high  wall  marked  by  the  conventional 
five  thin  white  lines  as  tokens  of  royal  favor,  and  pierced  by 
two  sumptuous  gates,  each  connected  with  the  main  thorough- 
fare by  low  stone  bridges.  The  latter  span  a  narrow  and  un- 
commonly foul  stream  of  water  which  is  supposed  to  represent 
a  moat,   and,  by  imparting  to  the  bridges  the  appearance  of 

drawbridges,  to    ^ve   tVie  \ftmp\^  \.Vife  aspect  of  a  forlress. 

The  upper  or  N.  gate,  in  line  mlYi  ^i^^^  poTt\v  oJl  >i)afe  Km\d«rd(J^ 
is  usually  closed  to  all  but  t\t\ed  vMB^\ot^^\\a^^^«^^^^^^ 
gied  roof  of  hinoki  bark  laid  ou  alooX.  ox  m^x^  ^\>^^V m ^^ 


KYOTO  27.  Route.    471 

8tri<H  Shintd  style,  and  its  mass  of  glittering  metal  enrichments 
arranged  after  the  most  approved  Buddhist  architectural 
taste  (symbolic  of  the  sometime  felicitous  union  of  the  two 
creeds),  coupled  with  the  pierced  and  sculptured  chrysanthe- 
mum panels  and  doors,  make  it  an  extraordinarily  rich-looking 
and  striking  object  in  the  landscape. 

The  Main  Gate  G^ft).  which  is  considerably  smaller  and 
less  ornate  than  that  of  tne  Higashi  Hongwanjiy  and  which  is 
not  in  keeping,  architecturally,  with  the  grandiose  temple  to 
which  it  gives  in^ess,  is  embellished  by  a  few  small  groups 
of  carved  and  foliated  chrysanthemums  covered  with  a  wire 
network,  to  protect  them  from  the  many  pigeons  which  make 
their  home  within.  From  its  ample  portal  the  temple  roof 
only  is  visible,  as  the  compound  is  defended  by  a  short  inner 
wall  built  after  the  Chinese  idea  (as  a  protection  against  de- 
moniac spirits,  which  are  believed  to  be  unable  to  travel  in 
aught  but  straight  lines).  The  chief  objects  of  interest  in  the 
wide  gravelled  inclosure  are  two  strikingly  graceful  square 
bronze  lanterns,  placed  at  the  right  and  left  of  the  temple  steps. 
Two  others,  of  less  pleasing  desigp,  face  the  Amida-do  (right), 
while  at  the  far  left,  in  a  granite  depression,  is  a  beautiful 
green-bronze  lotus-leaf  fountain  over  whose  dimpled  edges 
well  several  streams  of  crystal  water.  Note  the  facial  contor- 
tions of  the  squatting  demonlets  which  support  the  comers  of 
the  water-basins  at  the  foot  of  the  steps.  —  A  conspicuous  ob- 
ject in  the  compound  is  a  wide-spreading  Jchd  tree,  which 
the  credulous  believe  protects  the  temple  by  discharging 
showers  of  water  when  a  fire  threatens  it. 

The  Ich5  Tree  {Salishuria  adiantifolia;  Jap:  Gingko  or  Qingko  hilaba), 
a  unique  coniferous  tree  of  the  GinkgoaoecB,  kno^n  also  as  the  'Maiden- 
hair Tree'  of  Japan,  called  Salisburia  after  R.  A.  ScUiabury,  an  English 
botanist  of  the  18th  cent.,  resembles  somewhat  a  linden,  and  is  cultivated  in 
Japan  chiefly  for  ornamental  purposes.  It  is  the  only  living  genus  of  other- 
wise extinct  genera  which  flourished  in  Paleozoic  times,  and  is  perhaps  an 
importation  from  China,  where  it  is  grown  for  its  edible  fruit  (Jap.,  Qinnan; 
Chinese,  Pa-Kwa)  —  which  in  size,  shape,  and  color  resembles  lar^e  mira- 
belles,  with  thin,  disagreeable  flesh,  and  seed-kernels  with  a  taste  like  that 
of  peach-seed  kernels.  The  tree  (known  in  China  as  the  yin-hing,  or  'silver 
apricot')  grows  rapidly  to  a  great  size  and  height;  the  wood  is  somewhat 
similar  to  that  of  the  maple,  of  a  bright  yellowish  color,  fine-grained,  easily 
polished,  and  as  easily  broken.  It  sheas  its  yellow  leaves  in  the  autumn 
along  with  the  crimson  ones  of  the  maples,  and  is  most  often  found  in 
temple  yards  and  burying-grounds.  The  Japanese  idea  of  its  fire-quenching 
qualities  is  perhaps  an  adaptation  of  the  phenomena  of  guttation  peculiar 
to  the  Tamia  caspi.  or  'rain  tree*  of  the  eastern  Peruvian  Andes.  "The 
adherents  of  the  Nishi  Hongwanji  believe  in  its  efficacy  and  they  point 
with  triumph  to  the  fact  that  its  rival  temple,  the  Higcuhi  Hongwanji, 
has  been  burned  to  the  ground  four  times  since  it  was  established. 

The  plain  but  chaste  and  classic  exterior  of  the  («bTife  — 

which  is  constructed  of  rare  and  carefully  8e\ec\«d^oo^'&Vtaav 

the  sacred  forests  of  Koya-aan  —  is  redeemed  by  V^i'fc  "nrifcL  wA 

glowing  interior,  particularly  that  part  where  tYie  T^^3^>»51 

staads  and  where  moat  of  the  omaEnentaUoxi  \b  c«aDX«st«»' 


472    Routes?.  EYOTO  Nishi  Hmgfwaniji. 

The  vast  and  impressive  nave  (gejin)  of  the  hondd,  with  its 
four  lateral  aisles,  is  138  ft.  long  by  93  deep,  and  477  mats 
each  3  by  6  ft.  are  required  to  cover  it.  The  contrast  is 
striking  between  the  glitter  of  the  sanctuary  with  its  wondei^ 
ful  equipment  and  t£e  auditory  with  its  plain  keyaki  finish. 
Many  handsome  brass  lanterns  hang  from  the  ceiling  or  its 
supporting  pillars,  and  an  almost  constant  stream  of  worship- 
ers pass  in  and  out  beneath  them.  With  the  exception  of  the 
brassHstudded  ones  at  each  end  of  the  porch,  the  doors  are 
nondescript  in  character.  Seated  along  the  cross-beams  above 
the  plain  wooden  chancel-rail  —  which  can  be  moved  inward 
or  outward  as  occasion  requires  —  are  various  groups  of  poly- 
chrome Chinese  figures  serving  both  as  ornaments  and  as  con- 
structional expedients.  BeUnd  this  rail  the  entire  rear  of  the 
vast  room  is  a  maze  of  dazzling  gold  foil  and  beautiful  vari- 
colored decorations,  manifold  in  design  but  chiefly  of  religious 
import.  The  huge  pillars  and  pilasters  are  heavily  armored 
with  dazzling  burnished  gold  and  when  the  morning  sunbeams 
draw  sheets  of  yellow  flame  from  their  resplendent  surfaces  the 
effect  is  one  of  ravishing  opulence.  In  the  absence  of  capitals, 
the  columns  merge  at  the  top  into  a  flowing  maze  of  richly 
painted  flowers,  arabesques,  diapering,  and  geometrical  de- 
signs, so  complicated  and  involved  that  the  eye  wearies  in 
tracing  them  out;  the  colors  are  harmonious  and  amazingly 
effective,  and  the  whole  resembles  rich  brocade  silk.  The  series 
of  lower  pierced  and  sculptured  ramma  carry  great  gilded  peon- 
ies, foliated  and  in  high  relief  —  a  bit  too  large  to  be  artisti- 
cally satisfying,  but  withal  very  showy  in  their  regal  environ- 
ment. Higher  up  is  a  second  series  of  black-  and  gold-lacquered 
panels,  and  still  above  them  a  maze  of  elaborately  decorated 
compound  brackets  whose  companion  groups  in  the  nave  proper 
are  of  plain  keyakij  made  prominent  by  having  their  terminals 
picked  out  in  white.  At  the  extreme  left  of  the  nave  are  some 
superb  gold  panels  painted  with  mythological  howd  and  flow- 
ers—  designs  that  are  repeated  with  even  greater  beauty 
and  brilliancy  at  the  extreme  right.  Behind  the  latter  panels 
are  spacious  rooms  with  gilded  pillars  and  wall-screens  em- 
bellished with  lotus  flowers  and  leaves.  Below  them  are  gold- 
encased  sliding  screens  displaying  snow-laden  pine  trees,  while 
the  complemental  ones  at  the  left  carry  bamboos  and  cherry 
trees  also  bending  beneath  snowy  burdens. 

Almost  every  detail  of  the  wonderful  gold-lacquered  central 
shrine  bears  the  impress  of  a  perfect  art.  The  gold-lacquered 
table  upon  which  it  rests,  of  a  deep,  beautiful  black  and  a  rich 
Indian  red,  is  finished  with  an  exquisite  fidelity  to  refinement, 
a  quality  also  observable  in  the  superb  lacquered  altar-table 
which  stands  in  front  of  the  shrine  and  holds  up  to  it,  as  it 
irere,  candleSi  vases  of  flowers^  incense-burners,  and  the  usual 
Buddhiat  accessories.    The  XacqvieteA.  svilTa-\iOTs»  >which  sit 


Nishi  Hongwanji.  KYOTO  S7.  Boule.    473 

on  the  highly  polished  blaek-lacquered  floor  are  as  dainty  as 
Indian  jewel-boxes. '  Behind  the  shrine,  which  contains  a  much 
revered  wood  image  of  Shinran  ShOnin,  carved  by  his  own 
hands,  and  at  the  right  and  left  of  it,  are  minor  altars  where 
pictures  of  Skonin  and  other  exalted  personages  are  wor- 
shiped. In  one  of  them  is  a  kakemono  of  Amida  the  all-merci- 
ful, efifectively  painted  on  a  dark-blue  background  and  radiat- 
ing beams  of  golden  light.  The  two  Chinese  ideographs  in 
the  massive  gold  frame  adorned  with  a  16-petal  chrysanthe- 
mum crest  spell  the  name  KenshirinDaishi, 

The  Amida-d6,  or  Hall  sacred  to  Amida  Buddha^  stands 
at  the  right  (N.)  of  the  hondo  and  is  connected  therewith  by 
a  covered  passageway;  its  single  nave  (87  by  96  ft.)  is  even 
richer  and  more  glowing  than  that  of  the  konddy  with  decora- 
tions of  a  similar  order,  but  with  more  gold  and  more  grace. 
Instead  of  the  black-lacquered  panels  above  those  displaying 
carved  gilded  lotuses,  here  we  have  polychrome  groups  ol 
an^ls  of  the  Buddhist  heaven  excjuisitely  sculptur^  in  high 
relief  and  very  felicitously  subordinated  to  their  true  archi- 
tectural positions  above  the  richly  decorated  tie-beams;  the 
pierced  ramma  are  of  carved  and  gilded  tree  peonies.  The  reli- 
quary is  a  marvel  of  intricate  beauty,  with  a  statuette  of 
Amiday  dusky  with  age,  standing  with  his  back  against  a  rich 
gold  screen.  The  black-lacquered  borders  bring  the  gold 
panels  and  doors  into  striking  relief.  The  lar^  and  beautiful 
rooms  at  the  right  and  left  of  the  altar  contam  various  kake- 
mono  of  Honen  Shonin  and  other  Buddhist  priests  of  note. 
The  splendid  gold  sliding  screens  showing  phoenixes  and  pea- 
cocks on  a  blossoming  peach  tree  are  attributed  to  some  artist 
of  the  Kano  school  and  should  not  be  overlooked.  The  gro- 
tesque figurines  of  Chinese  sages  sitting  astride  dragons, 
cranes,  bizarre  horses,  and  in  other  ludicrous  attitudes  high 
amid  the  upper  cross-beams,  are  lurid,  and  fortunately  are 
often  unnoted. 

The  large  bare  adjoining  room  is  one  of  the  (uninteresting) 
apartments  of  the  bonzes.  —  Before  leaving  the  temple  in- 
closure,  one  should  cast  a  glance  at  the  large  carved  phcenix 
in  the  attitude  of  flying  out  of  its  nest  in  the  great  angle  formed 
by  the  ridge-pole  and  the  two  sides  of  the  roof  of  the  Amida- 
do  —  a  bold  and  crisp  design,  repeated  at  the  other  end  of  the 
structure.  The  companion  groups  on  the  kondo  display  Dogs 
of  Fo,  demons  and  flowers,  all  expertly  carved.  There  are  also 
some  passable  sculptured  dragons  under  the  wide  eaves  of  the 
porch  of  Amida^s  shrine,  and  elephant  heads  at-  the  ends. 
The  squat,  two-storied  structure  at  the  N.  limit  of  the  com- 
pound contains  some  chiseled  wood  figures  scarcely  worth 
seeing.  The  tall,  awkward  drum-tower,  between  the  corner 
of  the  fence  and  the  moat,  houses  a  deep-toned  dxMixi  ^Ys^^ 
is  struck  in  hourJj^  unisoa  with  the  temple  gOB%. 


474    Route  27,  KYOTO  TM  T^ 

The  Garden  (not  usually  shown)  contains  a  private  tear 
house  for  the  entertainment  of  distinguished  guests;  a  spring 
of  pure  water  with  a  stone  tablet  setting  forth  its  exception^ 
virtues,  a  pond,  a  number  of  tombs  of  long-dead  Buddhist 
priests,  and  a  three-storied  structure  decorated  (1st  floor) 
by  Kano  Eitoku  (willow  trees),  Kano  Tanyu  (8  views  of 
Chinese  scenery),  and  Kano  Sanraku  (2d  story,  portraits  of  the 
36  celebrated  poets).  On  the  3d  floor  are  pine  trees  ascribed 
to  Hideyoshi,  The  view  from  this  elevation  embraces  a  wide 
area.  —  The  scores  of  small  shops  which  flank  the  approaches 
to  the  temple  deal  almost  exclusively  in  rosaries,  reliquaries, 
gilded  saints  of  the  Buddhist  pantheon,  squares  of  tapestry 
for  antependiums,  and  temple  furniture  in  general. 

The  Tdji,  a  dilapidated  but  much  venerated  old  Buddhist 
temple  in  the  S.  confines  of  the  city  (PI.  B,  6)  beyond  the  rly. 
station  (20  min.  walk  from  the  Niahi  Hongwanji)^  in  a  some- 
what frowsy  neighborhood,  was  founded  as  a  monastery  in  the 
9th  cent,  by  Kdbo-Daishit  and  consequently  is  one  of  the  old- 
est in  Kyoto.  An  ancient  and  respectable  tradition  handed 
down  from  the  ages  relates  that  Mr.  Daishi  lived  here  when  he 
returned  from  his  pursuit  of  knowledge  in  China,  and  that  he 
held  the  abbotship  before  departing  to  found  the  widely  famous 
monastery  of  Koyasan  (Rte.  28),  in  the  wild  and  picturesque 
mt.  tract  between  Kishti  and  Yamato.  The  existing  shrimp- 
pink  structures,  which  are  persistently  and  sadly  neglected 
and  which  contain  a  trashy  lot  of  junk  of  but  little  interest  to 
travelers,  date  from  the  17th  cent,  and  are  the  headquarters 
of  the  Shingon  sect,  whose  seminary  stands  just  outside  the  S. 
gate  of  the  Nishi  Hongwanji.  Time  was  when  the  institution 
possessed  some  rare  treasures  brought  from  China  by  its 
founder,  but  most  of  these  are  now  scattered.  The  old  edifice 
near  the  S.  gate  is  a  curious  17th-cent.  relic,  with  a  porch 
formed  by  an  uplifted  section  of  the  roof  and  resembling  an 
overhanging  lip.  A  few  big  sculptured  figures  stand  about  in 
the  silent,  dusty  halls,  as  mediocre  as  the  minor  objects  stored 
in  the  godowns.  The  massive  and  still  sturdy  pagoda  at  the 
S.E.  corner  of  the  compound,  though  ascribed  to  the  8th  cent., 
dates  perhaps  from  the  17th  cent.  It  long  possessed  a  certain 
local  fame  as  a  sort  of  leaning  tower,  from  its  propensity  to 
stand  out  of  the  perpendicular.  This  habit  vexed  the  priests, 
who  prayed  earnestly  that  it  might  be  restored  to  its  vertical 
position.  At  that  epoch  a  wide  pond  stood  near  by  at  the  N., 
and  a  hard-headed  landscape  artist  conceived  the  idea  that 
this  might  have  something  to  do  with  the  inequality  of  the 

{)agoda^  foundation.    A  corresponding  pond    (the  present 
otus-pond)  was  dug  on  the  N.  side  and  the  pagoda  was  in- 
vited over.  In  due  course  it  straightened  up,  and  the  practical 
artist  18  now  worshiped  as  a  miracle-worker.   The  five  great 
stories  are  upheld  by  imnieiiae  compo\3Jid.Viit^^kftta  on  a  wide 


Katsura  Palace,  KYOTO  87.  RotOe.    475 

granite  plinth.  Note  the  bizarre  demonlets  astride  the  beams 
under  the  eaves  of  the  lower  story,  and  the  good-looking  gilt 
statues  on  the  altar  within. 

The  Katsura  Stimmer  Palace  ( KcU^wrarmo-fikyil),  sometime 
the  home  of  the  powerful  Katsura  family,  but  how  an  Imperial 
country-seat,  stands  (E.  PI.  B,  3)  about  3  M.  to  the  W.  of 
the  Kyoto  Rly.  Station j  on  the  W.  bank  of  the  swift  but  shallow 
Katsura  River.  The  dwelling  itself  is  of  scant  interest,  but 
the  artificial  garden  ranks  as  one  of  the  most  classical  in  the 
Empire. 

Starting  from  the  rly.  station,  pedestrians  may  reach,  the  wide  and  wind- 
ing road  leading  westward  from  the  outskirts  by  proceeding  1  sq.  W.,  then 
two  to  the  right.  A  b(Mha  leaves  from  a  point  near  by  about  every  hour 
(fare,  10  sen;  time.  \  hr.)  and  will  deposit  one  at  the  far  end  of  the  Ions 
KcUsura-gawa  Bridge,  at  the  S.  side  of  the  Palace  indosure,  2  min.  wuk 
from  the  entrance.  Jinriki  from  the  (5  M.)  Miyako  Hotel,  ¥2.40  (for  the 
round  trip  with  two  men).  Discomfort  inevitabl:r  attends  the  ezeurmon; 
the  road  is  the  natural  S.W.  outlet  of  the  old  capital,  and  throughout  the 
entire  day  there  go  and  come  never-ending  processions  of  long,  slender, 
man-propelled  carts  laden  with  rows  of  big  wooden  buckets  filled  to  the 
brim  with  splashing  night-soil,  the  overpowering  stench  from  which  hangs 
in  a  pestiferous  cloud  over  the  countryside.  There  are  scores  of  them  and 
they  cannot  be  avoided,  as  the  river  is  unbridged  at  other  points.  Unless 
fancy  or  a  sense  of  duty  prevails,  the  visitor  can  spend  the  time  to  practi- 
cally as  good  advanti^se  by  visiting  the  Shuigaku-in  mentioned  hereinafter. 
From  the  end  of  the  bridge  a  road  turns  up  sharply  at  t^e  right,  flanked  on 
one  side  by  the  river  and  on  the  other  by  a  dense  and  carefully  fenoed  bam- 
boo grove  that  forms  a  part  of  the  Imperial  estate.  The  massive  ungarnished 
black  gate  is  a  short  distance  beyond,  and  the  custodian's  house  is  just 
within.  The  special  permit  (not  valid  after  4  p.m.)  which  the  visitor  must 
possess  (see  p.  4(X))  is  shown  here,  and  the  name  inscribed  in  the  Palaoe 
Kegister.  A  guide  then  conducts  one  to 

The  Apartments  contained  in  a  low,  rambling  structure 
standing  well  off  the  ground,  showing  the  marks  of  primitive- 
ness  and  age,  and  resembling  more  a  private  dwelling  than  an 
imperial  palace.  The  sliding  screens  which  serve  as  interior 
partitions  are  in  some  cases  new  and  plain;  certain  of  the  older 
ones  carry  stiff  and  conventional  decorations  in  sepia  by  Kano 
TanyUy  to  whom  are  also  ascribed  some  of  the  grotesque  old 
cedar  doors  of  the  passageways,  adorned  with  rabbits  and 
other  animals.  Among  these  doors  is  one  with  a  gold-and- 
black  drum  surmounted  by  cockerel  attributed  to  Kand 
Eitoku  —  perhaps  a  relic  of  HideyoshVs  Peace  Palace  near 
Ftishimi. 

The  YuKi-No-MA  (Snow  Room)  takes  its  name  from  the 
faded  old  panels  (painted  in  a  feeble  way  and  without  novelty 
by  Kano  Yasunobu)  showing  snow-laden  trees,  pheasants, 
and  geese.  The  panels  exhibiting  old  Chinese  scenes,  by  Kand 
Norinobu,  are  poor  specimens  of  a  clumsy  form  of  pictorial 
art  preserved  for  their  historic  associations  rather  than  for 
their  decorative  effect.  The  most  prized  possessions  are  some 
small  sliding  panels  in  one  of  the  chigairdana,  with  tiny  bis^ 
painted  by  Kano  TanyH  in  the  style  nalvdy  d'eact&wi  Vj 


476    RmUS7.  KYOTO  Kataura  Paiaee. 

fulsome  writers  as  'geins'  and  'masterpieces/  but  which  critical 
travelers  find  difficulty  in  appreciating.    The  carefully  wrouig^t 
metal  hikitef  or  sunken  catches  of  certain  of  ^e  frAaumti^ 
including  those  nailed  to  the  upright  beams,  are  worth  looking 
at,  as  they  take  the  somewhat  unusual  form  of  bamboo  baskets 
filled  with  daffodils,  etc.  The  trimmings  of  some  of  the  shelves 
are  made  of  ancient  bits  of  cloisonne.  The  Mikado's  sleeping* 
room  —  a  darksome  apartment  —  is  laid   with  soft   mats 
edged  with  green  silk.    More  attractive  than  the  interior  is 
the  Tsukv^mi-daif  or  'moon-gazing  platform^  on  the  E.  side, 
overlooking  the*^  charming  garden  —  a  delightful  antidote  to 
the  so-called  palace.    Kobori  EnahU  (1579-1647),  indubitably 
the  greatest  of  all  the  old  Japanese  landscape  gardeners, 
designed  this  masterful  plot  for  the  diversion  of  his  Imperial 
master,  and  in  concordance  with  a  well-known  Chinese  poem, 
wherein  the  platform  above  mentioned  represents  a  boat 
floating  capriciously  across  a  serpentine  lake  on  a  moonlit 
night.  The  serenity  and  contentment  suggested  by  such  a 
scene  form  the  theme  of  the  artist's  efforts,  and  the  many 
sequestered  nooks,  the  whimpering  streamlets  which  tinkle 
through  the  fragrant  undergrowth  and  then  sUp  eagerty  but 
noiselessly  into  the  lily-  and  lotus-flecked  pond,  the  miniature 
moimtains  and  dingles,  and  the*  seductive  vistas  which  please 
the  eye  at  many  points,  are  all  in  harmonious  accord  with  his 
poetical  inspiration.    The  long,  flat  stone  bridges,  and  the 
arched  wood  ones,  which  span  the  bights  of  the  tiny  bays  or 
the  inflowing  brooks,  are  all  deftly  and  artistically  placed, 
as  are  the  moss-grown  stone  lanterns,  the  winding  paths  made 
of  flat  stepping-stones,  and  the  several  tsuridonOf  or  summer* 
houses,  poised  above  the  water.  This  is  supplied  by  the  ad- 
jacent Katsurorqawa;  the  yellow  water-lilies  (kohone)  which 
sometimes  idealize  its  surface  are  the    Nwphar  japonicum, 
or  Nymphcea,  The  islets,  bridges,  shaded  walks,  and  the  many 
beautiful  bamboo,  cherry,  pine,  maple,  ichOj  plum,  and  other 
trees  have  their  historical  significance,  some  having  been  pre- 
sented by  daimyds  and  other  exalted  personages.   The  several 
tea-houses  occupying  eminences  overlooking  the  pond,  and 
in  which  they  are  often  charmingly  silhouetted,  are  constructed 
in  the  severe  cka-no-yu  style.    The  visitor  may  perhaps  be 
intei^ted  in  the  one  wherein,  to  reach  the  chasekij  or  general 
meeting-room.  Imperial  visitors  had  to  crawl  on  all  fours 
through  a  sliding  door  not  above  2}  ft.  sq.,  then  close  this 
with  an  audible  click  to  apprise  the  host  of  their  presence. 
Hard  by  this  relic  of  a  singularly  puerile  observance  stands 
a  diminutive,  moss-grown  stone  lantern  overlooking  the  quiet 
pond,  called  the|  *  firefly  cage,*  from  the  circumstance  that 
fireflies  were  confined  herein  to  heighten  the  charm  of  the 
crepuacvdar  view  from  the  opposite  shore.  Farther  along  is  the 
KaUura-m-miifa  (shrine)  w\\ii  &  vVaixx  but  pretty  interior. 


ShdgunrZvka,  EYOTO  f7.  Rouie,    ATI 

Tlie  tearhouse  with  the  locally  celebrated  'six-window  room' 
is  ascribed  to  Kobori  EnahU,  who  deemed  it  proper  to  leave  one 
of  the  tiny  bamboo  windows  unfinished  as  a  sop  to  the  gods  for 
having  excelled  them  in  the  con8t3*uction  of  so  perfect  a  master- 
piece! The  guide  shows  a  tawdry  piece  of  velvet  here  (the 
first  imported  into  Japan)  that  is  supposed  to  have  come  from 
China  many  centuries  ago. 

The  irregular  regularity  of  the  garden  and  its  formal  purity 
of  style  impress  one  pleasantly;  the  contrast  between  the 
wild  and  rugged,  and  the  soft  and  gentle  in  the  restricted  but 
beguiling  landscape,  soothes  the  senses  of  the  modem  just  as 
it  must  have  calmed  the  Imperial  mind  in  the  past,  since  the 
Japanese  find  harmony  in  differentiation,  and  a  quiet  joy 
in  contrasts  sharp  enough  to  disturb  an  Occidental  mind. 

Nortfa-Central  and  Bast  Quarters. 

Shogun-Zuka.  *Zo6LocncAL  Gabdkn.  Hbian  Jing9.  ^Commsbcial 
Museum.  Impbbxal  Untviibsitt.  Doshibha  Unitsbsitt.  Bhimo-Gamo. 
Kami-Qauo.   *Bbxjqaxu-uh. 

Shagun-Zuka,  10  min.  walk  up  the  hill  (Kachd-zan)  be- 
hind the,Miyako  Hotel  is  worth  a  visit  for  the  splendid  view 
visible  from  the  summit.  In  a.d.  794  the  Emperor  Kwammu 
caused  to  be  buried  here  a  clav*  statue  8  ft.  high,  clad  in  armor 
and  equipped  with  a  bow  and  arrows,  to  scare  away  any  evil 
spirits  that  might  be  prowling  round.  According  to  a  popu- 
lar belief  the  ahogun,  Sakanoe  no  Tamvramaro  (d.  811),  is 
buried  here,  and  because  he  anciently  protected  the  city 
from  the  inroads  of  the  barbarous  Ainu^  it  is  believed  that 
when  danger  now  threatens  the  city  a  noise  comes  from  his 
tomb.  The  pine  trees  near  the  spot  were  planted  by  Admiral 
Togo  and  General  Kuroki,  The  slope  of  the  hills  hereabout  is 
thronged  with  mushrooifi-hunters  in  Oct.  Far  down  at  the 
right  one  sees  the  Kyoto  Waterworks  and  a  number  of  reser- 
voirs (one  designed  for  the  special  use  of  the  Palace),  and 
beyond  them  the  long  incUne  up  which  boats  travel  to  the 
level  of  Lake  Biwa.  The  green  ridge  forms  the  watershed 
between  this  lake  and  the  Yamashiro  plain.  The  small 
temple  here  is  dedicated  to  Dainichi-'Nyorai,  The  cool  woods 
road  which  leads  to  the  right  descends  to  the  Chion-4n; 
that  at  the  left  follows  the  crest  of  the  ridge  (splendid  views) 
to  (45  min.)  Kiyomizu-dera.  From  the  sinuous  and  finely 
shaded  path  there  lead  down  at  intervals  pretty  b3rwa3rs  that 
flame  with  maples  in  Nov.  Crumbling  tombs  are  everywhere, 
and  many  neglected  shrines  decay  quietly  in  the  thick  pine 
and  bamboo  groves.  The  lower  slope  of  Hiaashi-yama  is 
crossed  and  recrossed  bv  a  labyrinth  of  shaded  trails,  by 
whimpering  brooks,  and  by  thickets  that  shrill  incessantly  in 
summer  with  the  voice  of  the  mirthless  cicada.  Ki^jomieur 
dera  is  approached  from  the  rear,  over  an  aTc\^)Qind<iB^. 


478    RaiUe  27,  KYOTO  Commercial  Mtiieum. 

The  ^Zodlogical  Garden  {DdbiUau-en),  near  the  Hiromicki 
Bridge  (PI.  E,  3),  was  a  gift  to  the  city  in  commemoration 
of  the  wedding  of  the  present  Mikado,  and  is  of  considerable 
interest  (open  from  9  to  4;  admission,  5  sen)  to  those  desirous 
of  studying  the  fauna  of  Japan  and  contiguous  countries  at 
close  range.  There  is  the  usual  assemblage  of  African  liona 
and  stock  animals,  with  several  fine  Korean  and  Japanese 
heaxB  ikuma)f  a  splendid  Manchurian  tiger  (tora),  indigenous 
monkeys  (saru),  wild  boars  (inoshishi)^  foxes  {]hU8une)y 
seals  (ottosei),  etc.  The  big  eagle  (washi)  is  from  the  Hokkaido. 
Among  the  local  birds  are  pheasants  {kiji)j  falcons  {taka), 
cormorants  (w),  and  egrets  (shirorscigi).  The  curious  honey- 
buzzard  {Pemis  apivorus)  is  from  Yamashiro  Province,  as  is 
also  the  crop-eared  owl  (Strix  Brachyotus).  The  splendid  lot 
of  sacred  cranes  {tsuru  —  Grus  Japonensis)  are  emblems  of 
long  life  and  are  usually  prominent  objects  in  the  applied 
arts.  During  the  quiet  hours  of  the  night  they  make  Uie  welkin 
ring  with  their  shrilling.  When  one  starts,  the  others  break  in, 
in  different  keys,  and  produce  a  wild  and  pleasing  minstrelsy. 
The  Heian  Jingu  (or  Taikyohurden)^  a  group  of  highly  pic- 
turesque structures  near  the  ZoOj  dates  from  1895  and  com- 
memorates the  11th  centenary  of  the  establishment  <rf  the 
Imperial  Capital  at  Kyoto.  The  main  structure  is  supposed 
to  be  a  reproduction  of  the  original  Taikyokvrden  —  an 
edifice  attached  to  the  ancient  palace  erected  by  the  Emperor 
Kwammu  (to  whom  the  present  shrine  is  dedicated)  in  the 
8th  cent.  The  green  tiled  roofs  (after  the  Chinese  fashion) 
with  their  gilded  finials  are  among  the  most  attractive  in  the 
city.  The  finials  in  question  are  significantly  like  certain  of 
the  architectural  expressions  employed  by  the  early  Mexico 
in  Anahvac.  A  fee  of  10  sen  is  charged  to  see  the  nondescript 
garden  at  the  rear.  The  historical  festival  associated  with  the 
shrine  is  mentioned  at  p.  404.  —  The  tall  metal  pillar  at  the 
back  of  the  garden  is  an  evil-averting  Sorinto.  —  The  edi- 
fice at  the  left,  in  a  park-like  space  with  some  cannon  brought 
home  from  the  Russian  War,  is  the  Butokii-deUy  or  Hall  of 
Military  Virtues  (founded  in  1896).  The  fierce  demonlets 
perched  on  the  comers  of  the  tiled  roof  and  the  scowling  ante- 
fixes  emphasize  the  militant  idea.  Judo  exercises  may  often 
be  witnessed  here. 

The  *Ky6to  Commercial  Museum  (Shohin  ChinretsU'kioan)^ 
a  permanent  institution  (open  daily,  no  fees)  housed  in  a 
commodious  structure  (cost  182,000  yen)  near  the  Zoo  (PI.  E, 
3),  in  Okdzaki  Parky  was  opened  in  1909.  Its  trefoil  crest, 
symbolic  of  the  manufacturer,  the  merchant,  and  the  con- 
sumer, indicates  its  aim.  The  varied  and  beautiful  display 
of  products  manufactiu'ed  in  Kyoto  is  worth  seeing.  —  The 

new  brick  structure  oppomte  ifi  the  home  of  the  excellently 

equipped  Public  Library.      "■• 


Shimo-Gamo.  KYOTO  «7.  Rauie,    479 

The  Imperial  Universily,  (Dai  (?aA;A;d) islands  in  a  district 
called  Yoshida  (PI.  E,  2),  was  founded  in  1897j  and  is  a  sister 
institution  to  that  at  TokyO.  There  are  Colleges  of  Law,  Sci- 
ence, Engineering,  Medicine,  etc.,  and  a  growing  library. 

The  Doshisha  University,  founded  by  Dr,  Joseph  Hardy 
Neesima  in  1875,  is  N.  of  the  Imperial  Palace  (PL  C-D,  2),  and 
1ms  for  its  main  object  the  advancement  of  Christianity,  Utera- 
"ture,  and  science.  University  courses  were  opened  in  1912. 
^Missionaries  of  the  American  Board  have  aided  greatly  in  its 
upbuilding,  as  have  also  many  generous  foreigners  and  Japanese. 

The  Shimo-Gamo  (or  Ka'mo)y  a  Shinto  shrine  in  the  N.E. 
quarter  (E,  PI.  C,  2)  in  the  Kamo  District^  where  the  Kamo 
and  the  Takano  rivers  join,  is  one  of  the  oldest  religious 
foundations  in  the  city  and  is  said  to  date  from  a.d.  673  — 
nearly  a  century  before  Kwammu  moved  his  capital  from 
priest-ridden    Nara.    The  original  structure,   which  disap- 
-peaxed  long  ago,  was  built  by  the  order  of  the  Emperor  (from 
673  to  686)  Temmu  and  dedicated  to  Ekazuchi  no  Mikoio  and 
Tama  nori  Hime  —  parents  of  the  tutelar  of  the  Kamv-Gamo 
Shrine  described  hereinafter.   It  ranks  as  one  of  the  22  chief 
shrines  of  the  Empire,  and  is  of  interest  to  foreigners  chiefly 
for  the  beautiful  park  wherein  it  stands.  The  approach  (cross 
the  Aoi  Bridgey  5  min.  walk  beyond  the  tram-car  terminus) 
is  through  a  long  avenue  of  splendid  cryptomerias  and  other 
trees  interspersed  with  superb  maples,  whose  autumnal  tints 
attract  nature-loving  Japanese  by  the  thousands.    It  is  a 
favorite  resort  of  the  Kyoto  people,  to  whom  it  is  known  as  the 
Tadasu-no-rnxm  ('Forest  of  Tadasu').  Several  huge  brilliant 
vermilion  torii  point  the  way  to  the  immense  gateway  of  the 
same  color,  and  form  striking  contrasts  with  the  deep  green 
of  the  lofty  trees.  The  shrine  and  most  of  the  auxiliary  struc- 
tures were  renovated  or  entirely  rebuilt  in  1911;  the  roofs  are 
thatched  in  the  pure  Shinto  style,  and  the  beam-ends  sheathed 
in  richly  chased  brass  sockets.    The  crest  everywhere  in  evi- 
dence is  the  aoi  (alarum).    May  15  of  each  year  the  histori- 
cal Aoi  Festival  procession  repairs  to  this  shrine,  and  at  the 
termination  of  a  solemn  ceremony,  recrosses  the  bridge  and 
proceeds  up  the  broad  embankment  (dote)  which  flanks  the 
Kamo-gawa,  to  the  companion  shrine  mentioned  below. 

The  Kami-Gamo,  or  Upper  Kamo  Shrine  (E,  PL  C,  2),  at 
the  N.E.  edge  of  the  Kamo  District j  about  1  M.  beyond  the 
Daitoku-ji,  is  dedicated  to  Wakase  Ekaztichi  no  Mikoto.  The 
grounds  are  handsomely  laid  -out,  but  are  less  extensive  than 
those  of  the  Shimo-Gamo,  Two  crystal  brooks  rush  and  gurgle 
through  them,  and  the  old  moss-  and  lichen-splashed  trees  in 
the  inner  section  make  an  impressive  background  for  the 
flaring  red  torii  forming  the  gateway.  The  curved  biid^^b  Vv>^ 
its  8  metal  giboshu  is  reiserved  for  the  Imperial  TDfiBa%ii^B^« 


^ 


480    Route  27.  KYOTO  Shagaku^n. 

The  Shugaku-in  (E,  PI.  C,  2),  a.  group  of  fine  gardens  dotted 
over  with  a  number  of  ematl  Hummer-housea  occupyine  on 
admirable  site  (in  the  N.E.  suburbs)  on  the  S.W.  slope  of  the 
Hiei-zan  foothillfl,  about  4  m.  from  the  hotel   (rikiaha  with  2 
men,  ¥1.90  the  round  trip;  tram-car  in  25 min,  Ui  Shimo-gotno,      i 
6  ten,  thence  rikiaha  in  35  luin.,  40  sen,  or  on  foot  in  60  min, 
overa  good  road),  dates. from  the  I7th  cent,  when  the  Brnpenr 
Go-Mino-o  planned  them  f-or  the  enjoyment  of  hia  leiaure 
[  hours  during  a  50  years' retirement.  The  main  garden  ^special 
t  permit  neceasary  for  all,  comp.  p.  400)  is  auperiatively  boaufr     | 
r  ful,  and  beside  being  one  of  the  finest  in  Kyoto,  offers  a  Btrik-     i 
I  ing  example  of  what  can  be  made  of  u  bare  hillaide  with  a     I 
I  southern  exposure  in  a  generous  climate.     Within  its  vast     , 
I   circumference    there  is  almoat  every   variety   of    aspect  — 
I  mountain,  plain,  valley,  distant  views,    Bequesteped  nooke, 
waterscapes,  etc.  Unless  one  is  a  tireleae  walker,  and  can  plan 
to  be  at  the  entrance  of  the  garden  at  8  a.«,   in  summer  or  fl 
in  winter  (opening  time;  closea  4  p.m.)  and  have  a  jinrild  in 
readiness  to  hurry  one  directly  over  to  Shirakaiva  when  the 
inapection  (which  will  take  about  40  min.)  ia  completed,  tme, 
had  beat  not  include  the  Shugaku-^n  in  a  walking  trip  (for 
which  one  should  start  freah)  over  Hiei-zan,   since  the  gar- 
dene  are  extensive,  and  there  is  conaiderable  up  and  down 
hill  tramping  to  be  done. 

After  aroflUDg  tbo  bridge  beyond  ibo  irvuvay  tenniouH,  pcdGflCriauB  wQl 
bear  lo  the  leFC,  caatiniie  along  Ihe  river  banli  oppoalle  Shimo-Gama,  mi 
pnae  the  big  nlU  of  the  Kanaaafiu^hi  CoUon  Spitmiae  Cii.;  30  min.  beyool 
the  bridge  the  road  iorka.  and  15  tnio.  still  fuchar  beyond  the  right  bmub 
[orka  again.  By  turning  up  at  tbs  left  Bnd  tnvsniDg  the  luHia  atreel  u( 
Rhi,nnirii-i«  villnge,  the  plain  eatTBUce  to  tto  ^rdea  is  eoon  deauried.   P«- 

lugh  a  2d  gate,  then  up  (i  M.'>  an  ayenua 

The  panorama  from  the  terrace  on  which  the  house  stands 
is  tine  and  far-reaching.  Down  the  long  atages  marking  the 
deecent  to  tlie  valley  on  which  the  city  aprwds  out  broadly, 
peasants  may  be  seen  busily  engaged  in  a^culture,  or  plod- 
ding along  the  white  highways.  Dense  graves  of  rare  trees 
cloUie  the  sharp  hillalopes  behmd,  while  at  the  foot,  reetrained 
by  the  verdure-covered,  flower-decked  walla  oi  a  sinuous  dike, 
and  fed  by  a  number  of  murmuring,  cascading  mt.  rills,  is  a 
lovely  pond  {pragon  Lake)  overshadowed  by  great  willows 
which  dip  their  long  green  fingers  in  the  quiet  waves.  Near 
the  shore,  and  linked  thereto  by  a  picturesque  wood  and 
granite  bridge  (copied  from  a  famous  one  in  GhiRa  and  pre- 
sented to  the  Mikado  by  the  daimyo  of  Echigo)  is  an  adorable 
fiftle  Jsiand,  tended  like  a  je-wel  and  flecked  with  groups  of 
carefully  disposed  almiViaa»ifto^M»-  t\«i'AicTr^\Wrtna»jw 
ravishing  in  spring,  and  \itca>»e  o^  tVe  AiAveieA  Aasi«\et  v*. 
the  spo^  the  iwlie  leaves  rfteu  tb^blw^  v\««  t^^^'ww* 


Kikmo  Tenjin.  ETOTO  S7.  Route.    481 

until  mid-December.  These  ran|^  from  t^ider  yellowB  to 
violent  reds,  and  the  artistic  envux)nment  greatly  enhances 
their  charm.  A  serpentine  path  descends  from  the  tea-house 
(called  Kami  no  O-chaya^  a  name  frequently  applied  to  the 
gaiden),  behind  which  is  a  pretty  waterfall.  The  square  frail 
structure  beyond  the  arm  of  the  lake,  surmounted  by  the 
imperial  crests,  is  reserved  for  the  use  of  the  Emperor  and 
Empress;  the  beautiful  hedge  beyond  it,  of  pine  and  moun- 
tain tea-flower,  is  20  or  more  ft.  across  the  top. 

A  lateral  avenue  leads  past  a  low,  fantastic  pine  tree  trained 
after  the  fashion  of  the  Karaadhi  Pine  (p.  504),  and  another 
pretty  lakelet,  to  the  Naka  no  O-chaya,  the  Empress's  some- 
time retreat.  The  most  interesting  objects  in  the  interior 
(shoes  must  be  removed)  are  two  old  sliding  cedar  doors  on 
which,  cleverly  painted  by  an  unknown  artist,  is  a  net  with 
two  realistic  rents,  inclosing  some  strikingly  lifelike  carp;  the 
same  design  is  repeated  on  the  reverse.  According  to  the 
tradition,  the  fish  were  painted  with  such  fidelitv  to  nature 
that  imtil  the  nets  were  made  to  inclose  them,  they  used  to 
go  out  each  night  and  revel  with  their  friends  in  the  pool  near 
the  house!  Certain  of  the  small  silk  squares  pasted  on  the  old 
fusuma  are  excellently  done,  as  are  also  the  small  sliding 
panels  bv  Yuaen,  The  little  polychrome  metal  flower-carts 
employea  to  cover  the  bolt  heads  in  the  apartment  are  lacelike 
in  their  delicate  beauty.  The  faded  old  gold-stippled  fusuma 
in  the  adjoining  room  with  their  landscape  views  are  quaint 
memorials  of  bygone  days,  and  the  admirably  painted  cars 
on  the  cedar  doors  are  of  the  sort  used  in  the  Gion  matsuri,  A 
close  inspection  of  these  carts  shows  them  to  be  filled  with 
roysterers  and  flowers  —  first-class  work  by  Sumiyoshi  Gukei. 
—  The  Shimo  no  0-chaya  (Lower  August  Tea-House)  stands 
near  the  ofiSce  and  is  the  last  shown;  the  traveler  will  not  spend 
much  time  over  the  indifferent  old  sepia  Jusuma  of  Chinese 

Xes  by  Ganku  —  founder  of  a  school  whose  adherents 
ired  this  style  of  work;  nor  yet  over  the  wan  old  junks  on 
their  faded  backgrounds.     There  is  another  pretty  little 

garden  hard  by,  with  water  rippling  through  it  and  some 
andsome  trees  and  flowers.  Conspicuous  among  the  shrubs 
are  the  big  Ardisia  crenulata  (inanry6)j  much  cultivated  in 
the  conservatories  of  less  favored  countries  for  their  fine  red 
berries;  and  the  equally  striking  Nandina  domestica  (nanten). 

Northwest  Quarter. 
KiTANo  Tenjin.    *Kinkaku-ji.  Daitoku-ji.  Kbnkun-Jinsha.  TOji-in. 

OmUBO  GoBHO.    TaKAO-SAN.     'I'MlTOflHINOjI.     Kt9T0  NuBSKBT.    SAQArNQi- 

Shaka-do.  Arashi-yama.  Rapidb  of  the  HOku-gawa. 

The  Kitano  Tenjin  (often  called  Tenjin  Sama  and  KiiaTfW>- 
/t^/a),  a  picturesque  Rydbv^Shinto  (p.  ccxvi)  temp\e  iy\.^>^ 
m  the  N.  W.  suburb  (about  8  M.  from  tlie  liftudko  HolA; 


482    RmUe  27,  KYOTO  KiJUmo  Teiym. 

jinriki  with  2  men  in  li  hrs.;  ¥1.50  round  trip;  tram-Hsar  in 
35  min.,  8  %m)y  is  one  of  the  gayest  and  most  popular  of  the 
local  fanes.  The  original  structure  is  said  to  date  from  a.d. 
836,  but  in  all  probability  this  was  razed  and  a  new  one  sub- 
stituted when  the  present  honden  was  constructed  by  Toyotomi 
Hideyori  in  1607.  Its  great  popularity  dates  from  959  when 
the  spirit  of  tthe  loyal  Sugawara  Michizane  (see  Dazaifu)  be- 
gan to  be  worshiped  under  the  title  of  Tennmangu.  Toyotomi 
Hideyoshi  added  considerably  to  the  renown  of  the  shrine 
when  in  1588  he  gave  here  his  tea-festival,  .the  Kitano  dai 
cha-no-yu.  When  the  monthly  (25th  day)  and  annual  (Oct.  4) 
festivals  (procession  of  religious  floats  —  zuiki  matsuri)  are 
held,  the  stranger  may  be  puzzled  to  decide  whether  the 
shrine  is  a  religious  resort  or  a  local  Coney  Island.  A  host 
of  restaurants,  stalls,  peep-shows,  and  catch-penny  devices  are 
rigged  up;  flags  and  streamers  adorn  the  scores  of  stone  lan- 
terns; colored  cravats,  bibs,  and  shoestrings  are  tied  round 
the  necks  of  the  marble  and  bronze  horses,  cows,  and  bulls 
(which  here  supplant  the  customary  Binzuru)^  and  an  air  of 
feverish  joyousness  pervades  the  locality.  Then  the  ailing 
and  the  sinful,  believing  that  a  miracle  will  be  performed  in 
their  favor,  repair  hither  to  rub  the  bulls,  then  the  corre- 
sponding part  of  their  own  anatomy  requiring  medical  atten- 
tion; fill  up  on  peanuts,  melon-seeds,  calamitous  drinks,  and 
native  goodies;  clap  their  hands,  bow  their  heads,  and  make 
their  orisons  before  the  monuments,  the  trees,  and  even  the 
fence-posts;  run  a  hundred  times  round  the  square  formed 
by  the  oratory  and  the  building  abutting  on  it  from  the  rear; 
and  then,  having  thus  propitiated  the  spirits  and  laid  the 
corner-stone  for  the  realization  of  some  cherished  (and  per- 
chance rascally)  wish,  they  go  home  logy,  happy,  and  filled 
to  the  chin  with  irreconcilable  stuff  which  they  ought  never  to 
have  eaten. 

The  entrance  to  the  wide  inclosure  is  marked  by  a  huge 
granite  torii  —  one  of  several  succeeding  ones  to  be  passed 
under  before  the  shrine  is  reached.    The  bronze  horse  at  the 
left  is  manifestly  a  relic  of  the  bronze  age,  before  art  was  devel- 
oped.  The  fine  new  gateway,  finished  in  the  natural  keyakij 
embellished  with  16-petaI  chrysanthemums,  with  its  beam- 
ends  sheathed  in  polished  l)ra88  embossed  with  tracery  and  a 
tiny  raised  crest  of  the  Imperial  flower,  is  unusually  attrac- 
tive —  the  metal    against  the  velvety  brown  of  the  wood 
producing  a  very  harmonious  note.   The  customary  figures  of 
Udaijin  and  Sadaijin  sit  in  the  loggias  at  the  right  and  left, 
and  Ama"  and  Koma-inu  at  the  rear.    The  usual  granite  and 
bronze  lanterns,  as  well  as  the  lurid  pictures  and  carvings 
(many  of  them  bulls)  in  t\ie  ex-voto  WW  ?vX.  \fe\<i\\»,  ^x^  ^fts 
from  devotees.    The  Innei  Gd.\ft  (,Sauko-uo-mou,  ^^  'T^^i^ 
luminaries ')  opens  into  a  smaW  ac\MaTe  loxm^e^X^^  \>c^^\«ai^ 


Kinkakuiii.  KYOTO  £7,  Route.    483 

at  the  back  and  colonnades  at  the  right  and  left.  The  sake' 
tubs  and  other  junk  beHeath  these  )Bure  material  gifts  from 
votaries.  The  maze  of  wood-carvings  which  once  adorned 
the  main  structure  are  now  badly  blurred;  those  beneath  the 
eaves  of  the  picturesque  and  complicated. roof  are  better  pre- 
served —  groups  of  polychromatic  birds,  tenniuy  and  other 
symbols  forming  the  motives.  The  interior  is  a  jumble  of 
lanterns,  pictures  of  tigers,  and  other  offering,  conspicuous 
among  them  scores  of  polished  mirrors  ranging  from  tiny 
ones  to  others  4  ft.  in  diameter.  The  numerous  small  detached 
buildings  in  the  compound  are  of  no  interest.  —  The  shrine 
in  the  pure  Shinto  style  of  architecture  behind  the  big  red 
toriif  down  the  road  (left)  from  the  rear  gate,  is  the  HiranO' 
jinja.  The  plum  trees  hereabout  are  beautiful  in  early  spring. 

The  *Kinkaku-ji,  or  Golden  Pavilion  (PI.  A,  1),  known  also 
as  the  Rokuon-jiy  is  in  the  N.W.  outskirts  (4  M.  from  the 
hotel;  jinriki  with  2  men,  2  hrs.,  for  the  round  trip,  ¥1.90) 
within  a  15  min.  walk  (jinriki,  10  min.,  30  sen  round  trip)  of 
the  Kitano  Tenjin  (see  above).  Where  there  are  several  mem- 
bers in  a  party  it  may  be  found  cheaper  and  more  convenient 
to  employ  one  of  the  hotel  carriages.  The  broad  highway 
leads  from  the  left  of  the  rear  gate  to  the  Kitano  Tenjin^ 
passes  the  red  torii  guarding  the  uninteresting  Hirano-jinja, 
then  turns  abruptly  to  the  right  and  serves  as  the  main  st. 
of  a  small  suburban  settlement.  A  walk  of  10  min.  (bearing 
to  the  left)  brings  one  to  the  big  grove  of  trees  in  which  the 
temple  and  pavilion  are  situated.  Springtime,  when  the  flow- 
ers are  in  bloom,  or  Nov.,  when  the  maples  are  turning,  are  the 
best  seasons,  albeit  the  Japanese  regard  the  pavilion  as  love- 
liest when  the  snow  covers  it.  One  half-hour  is  sufficient  for 
an  inspection  of  the  temple,  garden,  and  pavilion.  The  major 
portion  of  the  paintings  and  other  relics  preserved  in  the 
abbot's  apartment  are  not  worth  much. 

The  Golden  Pavilion  (kinkaku)  and  the  temple  (Ji)  —  the  latter    the 
property  of   the    zen    sect    of  Buadhists  —  owe    their    origin    to    the  3d 
Ashikaga  shogun,    Yoshifnitau,  who,  upon  his  cession  (in    1395)  of  the  sho- 
gunate  to  his  son   Yoshimochi,  retired  to  a  small  estate  belonging  to  Saionji 
(a  court  noble)   and  there  built  for  himself  a  retreat  from  which  he  con- 
tinued, though  nominally  a  Buddhist  monk,  to  direct  the  affairs  of  State. 
After  his  death  in  1408   his  dwelling  was  coverted  into  a  temple   called 
Rokuon-ji;  of  this  group  of  edifices  the  only  remaining  one  is  the  pavilion. 
The  Hojo,  or  abbot's  residence,  was  erected  between  1673  and  1680.^   The 
former,  which  stands  in  the  garden  apart  from  the  temple,    is  considered 
one  of  the  choicest  specimens  extant  of  the  architecture  of  the  early  Aehi- 
k<iga  period.  Though  it  lacks  great  dignity  and  impressiveness,  its  graceful 
diminutiveness  and  its  delicacy  of  design  —  particularly  when  compared 
with  the  ponderous  temples  which  rise  in  other  quarters  of  the  old  capital  — 
are  pleasing.    The  adorable  little  garden  in  which  the   pavilion.  st«AV&&  Ha 
thought  by  some  to  rival  in  beauty  and  charm  the  ^ne  IrcLpeinsX.  %>3Scaoffit 
ffardens  of   Katsura,  and  the  Shuffakiirin,     Both  tbft  8tonw\.\»^  wA  v^s^ 
deJigbtful  en  vironment  are  expreaaive  of  the  unquestiotiftd  taa\»  oi  V>a»  ^t**-^ 
/**/^f^  ^^ojyrougbt  them  into  being.    When  by  ceaaftlB8a\B.\>ot  wAX**** 
Me  bdd  elevated  the  shogun&t^  to  a  hitherto  undreKmedot  p\a.iKX«k  ci  '^rowJWO' 


484    Route  27.  KYOTO  Kinkak»4i. 

and  power  (a  fabric  which  his  grandson  Yoshinuua  succeeded  in  demolidi- 
ing)  and  had  skillfully  secured  tibe  succession  to  the  Aahiktiga,  he  retired 
hither  to  delight  in  the  society  of  poets,  painters,  and  the  learned  homes 
whom  he  had  always  favored  and  who  revered  him  as  their  indulgent 
master. 

^  The  temple-office  is  at  the  right  of  the  big  gate;  the  admis- 
sion-fee is  20  sen  and  the  ticket  must  be  given  up  at  the 
entrance  to  the  garden.  The  acolyte  conducts  the  visitor  first 
through  the  several  small  rooms  of  the  abbot's  apartments 
and  shows  him  a  number  of  mediocre  sliding  screens  and 
kakemono.  The  small  shrine  room  called  the  hondd  has  some 
fusuma  with  drawings  of  Chinese  sages  in  black  on  a  white 
ground,  ascribed  to  Kand  TanyU,  At  each  side  of  the  altar 
are  prized  pictures  by  Cho  DensUy  depicting  the  great  religious 
teachers,  Buddha,  Confucius,  and  Lau-tsz'  (the  founder  of 
Taoism).  The  folding  screen  showing  heads  of  Chinese  boys 
is  not  as  good  as  the  kakemono  of  the  Rakan,  or  the  3  excel- 
lent ones  (by  some  unknown  Chinese  painter  of  the  Ming 
Dynasty)  with  Chinese  sages  playing  games  or  engaged  in 
literary  discussion.  Time-stained  doors  with  Chinese  figures 
shut  oSF  the  corridor,  at  the  end  of  which  we  overlook  a  dainty 
little  garden  with  a  celebrated  pine  tree  (about  200  yrs.  old) 
trained  in  the  form  of  a  native  junk  and  called  Rikushurno^ 
matsu.  In  the  adjoining  room  are  some  old  bronze  and  lacquer 
relics  that  once  belonged  to  Yoshimitsu;  some  sliding  screens 
of  winter  scenes  by  TanyUj  and  some  poor  kakemono  showing 
cocks  and  hens  by  Ito  Jakuchu  (1715-1800)  which  discredit 
him.  AH  the  panels  in  the  following  room  are  by  him,  and 
some  of  those  in  the  next  one  —  where  there  are  also  some  in 
black  and  white  by  Kand  Tsunenohu.  The  landscapes  are 
now  almost  indistinguishable,  and  the  painting  of  the  vapid 
Hotei  does  not  appeal  to  good  taste.  The  7  old  bronze  wind- 
bells  are  said  to  have  long  hung  from  the  eaves  of  Yoshimitsu^s 
dwelling.  The  most  noteworthy  object  here  is  a  folding  gold 
screen  (by  Soami)  displaying  graceful  white  chrysanthemums. 
We  now  enter  the  Sho-in,  or  drawing-room,  which  contains 
some  better  panels  of  cranes  by  Jakuchu;  the  elevated  dais 
was  for  the  use  of  the  Emperor  when  he  visited  the  place.  The 

Eriest  here  points  with  pride  to  a  series  of  small  sliding  cup- 
oard  screens  ornamented  with  a  badly  faded  dog,  cow,  fish, 
bird,  and  peony  by  Sumiyoshi  Hiromichi  (1599-1670).    In 
another  room  are  some  highly  prized  kakemono  by  Shubun. 
The  picture  of  a  sour-faced  monkey  hanging  by  one  arm  from 
a  branch  of  a  tree  is  said  to  have  belonged  to  Yoshimitsu.    • 
Those  at  the  right  are  ranked  by  the  priests  with  the  choicest 
relics  of  the  temple.  The  chrysanthemum-screen  (perhaps)  by 
Ogata  Korin  is  not  in  his  beat  majiivet  ^  ^.ivd  ia  less  effective 
thsoi  the  large  one  (by  an  unknowii  aiXXaV)  ^o^'va%\i^^^\a.\^>3 
white  cranes  on  an  old-gold  gcound.  Beiote  v^^^^^^^^.^^ 
garden  the  visitor  is  BometimeB  coudMcXed  \»  ^  «Mi!Wi(wo. 


Golden  PavUion.  KYOTO  i7.  RouU.    485 

where  choice  unsweetened,  powdered  tea,  made  thick,  and 
whipped  to  a  froth,  is  served  in  the  chtp-no-yu  style.  —  Cross- 
ing the  court  to  an  opening  in  the  fence  one  enters  the  guden 
and  follows  the  path  that  winds  round  the  edge  of  the  tran- 
quil little  lake  encircled  by  fine  trees  and  sometimes  covered 
with  a  flowering  aquatic  plant  called  junsai  (waternshield  — 
Brasenia  peltata).  Many  of  the  surrounding  stones  bear 
fanciful  names  and  aie  placarded;  almost  every  spot  in  the 
delightfully  poetic  ana  sheltered  retreat  is  intimately  associ- 
ated with  the  memory  of  the  great  shogun  who  left  it  as  a 
reminder  of  his  refined  taste.  The  most  conspicuous  object  in 
the  garden  is  the 

Golden  Pavilion,  a  small,  three^toried,  summer-house 
about  30  by  40  ft.,  encircled  by  narrow  galleries,  with  the 
upper  story  considerably  smaller  than  the  lower.  The  piquant 
upward  tilt  of  the  roof  suggests  a  Shintd  shrine.  The  edifice 
stands  on  the  N.  shore  of  the  islet-dotted  lakelet,  whose 
mirror-like  surface,  when  free  from  flowers,  reflects  in  a 
pleasing  way  the  rich  patina  of  the  gold  foil  restored  to  the 
upper  story  in  1906.  The  gleaming  sheets  of  this  metal  which 
once  covered  the  entire  structure  have  disappeared,  leaving 
only  scrappy  and  smudgy  traces  which  detract  from  the  charm. 
Surmounting  the  structure  is  an  awkward  bronze  phcenix, 
with  outspread  wings,  a  counterpart  of  the  one  preserved  in 
the  abbot  8  apartments.  Bronze  wind-bells  pend  from  the  eaves 
and  tinkle  tlunly  but  sweetly  to  the  touch  of  the  soft  breeze. 
The  five  stones  in  the  water  near  the  entrance  were  brought 
from  China.  In  the  lower  room  (shoes  must  be  removed  at  the 
entrance),  at  the  small  altar,  is  a  seated  figure  of  Amida 
carved  by  Jocho  and  presented  to  the  shrine  by  the  Emperor 
Go-Mino-o,  The  standing  figures  are  Seishi-boscUsu  and 
Kwannorij  the  latter  ascribed  to  the  overworked  Unkei.  All 
these,  as  well  as  the  seated  figure  of  YoshimitsUf  in  the 
reliquary  at  the  left,  are  treasures  of  the  nation.  On  a  little 
balcony  which  juts  out  from  this  floor  the  shogun  used  to  sit 
and  watch  the  moonbeams  as  they  traced  argentine  shadows 
on  the  rippling  waters  of  the  lakelet,  and  perchance  dream'  of 
the  instability  of  mundane  affairs.  The  big  gold  and  gray 
carp  come  in  answer  to  the  call  to  be  fed. 

A  short  flight  of  steepish  steps  leads  to  the  2d  floor,  where 
there  is  a  shrine  embedded  in  a  sort  of  rockery  with  a  tiny 
gilded  image  (attributed  to  Eshin^  942-1017)  of  KwameoUf 
flanked  by  large  sculptured  wood  statues  of  the  Shi-tennd 
(ascribed   to    Kobo-Daishi).    The  painting  of  tennin  and 
peonies  on  the  ceiling,    now  so  worn  as  to  be  ac«ixc^^^  ^^sar 
tinguishable,  is  the  work  of  Kano  ilfa«anobu.  TVie\>ax«iToaHi 
has  alow  ceiling  said  to  be  of  a  single  strip  oi  caxaphot-^QKA 
(doubtful  in  view  of  the  fact  that  it  is  20  ft.  BQ.").    Yxom  XS^i 
ts/cony  of  the  upper  story  one  gets  a  begaUixi^  v\e^   fiS.  \2QA 


486    Rouie  $7.  KYOTO  Daitok»'iL 

'pond  and  the  beautiful  foliage  reflected  from  it.  The  lofty  hiU 
visible  at  the  right  is  called  Kinukasoryama  ('silk-hat  mt.') 
from  the  circumstance  that  a  certain  capricious  mikado  once 
ordered  it  covered  with  white  silk  so  that  in  sununer  it  would 
resemble  snow.  —  In  a  small  house  in  the  garden  is  a  carved 
wood  model  of  the  kinkaku-ji;  hard  by  is  a  tiny  spring  where 
the  shogun  obtained  the  water  he  used  to  boil  for  his  tea- 
ceremonies —  for  which  he  had  a  p^ion.  Farther  along, 
gerched  on  an  artificial  craggy  slope,  is  a  quaint  little  tea- 
ouse  (constructed  of  wood  of  the  Nandina  domestica)  where 
these  ceremonies  were  conducted.  The  diminutive  waterfall 
near  by  is  called  the  Dragon  Fall.  From  its  fanciful  resem- 
blance to  a  carp,  the  stone  below  it  is  called  Carp  Stone.  The 
visitor  is  dismissed  near  a  shrine  dedicated  to  Fvdo,  Leaving 
the  garden  through  a  near-by  gate,  one  descends  a  fli^t  of 
stone  steps  to  the  road  below  the  main  entrance. 

The  Daitoku-ji  (PI.  B,  1),  the  seat  of  a  subdivision  of  the 
Rimai  branch  of  the  Zen  sect,  stands  back  in  a  stately  old 
walled  park  in  the  N.W.  quarter,  and  was  founded  in  1323  by 
the  bonze  Daito-Kokuahi  (Myocho)  —  who  afterwards  became 
its  abbot.  Time  was  when  it  possessed  wealth  and  influence 
and  was  of  importance  in  the  religious  life  of  the  inhabitants 
of  the  old  capital,  but  the  remorseless  years  have  shorn  it  of 
its  splendor  and  of  most  of  its  numerous  dependencies  (at  one 
time  upward  of  twenty).  During  the  centuries  of  its  existence, 
some  celebrated  men  were  counted  among  its  bonzes:  IkkyU 
in  the  15th,  Takuan  in  the  17th,  and  others.  Until  quite 
recently  it  possessed  considerable  property  in  mortmain,  and 
a  collection  of  art  treasures  which  made  it  a  pilgrimage  of  all 
lovers  of  the  various  unique  phases  of  early  Japanese  crafts- 
manship. Foreign  and  native  collectors  have,  however,  carried 
off  so  many  of  the  best  pieces  that  what  are  left  will  hardly 
repay  the  traveler  for  the  time  and  trouble  spent  in  seeing 
them.  They  are  kept  in  a  special  godown  opened  *^\w  in  the 
presence  of  two  or  more  caretakers,  while  a  tlurd  needy 
trustee  holds  the  key.  At  least  3  days'  notice  must  be  given 
by  those  who  wish  to  inspect  them,  and  the  expense  incurred 
(never  less  than  5  yen)  must  be  paid  by  the  applicant.  The 
choicest  treasures  consist  chiefly  of  relics  of  Oda  Nobunaga 
(whose  tomb  is  within  the  precincts) ;  calligraphic  records  of 
several  early  emperors;  a  lot  of  somewhat  trashy  kakemonos 
by  early  artists  of  the  Kand  school,  and  a  few  valuable  (to 
the  priests)  bits  of  Korean  and  Chinese  porcelain  as  uncomely 
as  mey  are  old.  The  fusumay  kakemono,  and  what-not  scat- 
tered through  the  various  priestly  apartments  and  adjacent 
buildings  within  the  wide  incVoaxxre  V<coT\^\^^T«Aik  walking) 
make  but  a  weak  appeal  to  tlie  avetajg^e  Oc<i\^^xi\.?iX.  "^V^  \ssna\j3 
huidacapes  by  Soame;  tlie  Obm^e  a^«^e»  Vj  SK^u;  Vk«. 
^wannons  by  Kiaokotd,  and  Godoshi,  ^^^\\^^^«ss«^ 


DaUoku-ji.  EYOTO  S7.  Route.    487 

kakemono  by  Sumiyoaki  Gukei,&Te  none  as  fine  or  as  well  pre- 
served as  the  series  of  12  pictures  of  the  Rakan  —  brilliant 
and  vigorous  examples  of  Chinese  art  of  the  early  Yuen 
Dynasty  —  which  the  late  Mr,  FeneUoaa  bought  and  sent  to 
the  Boston  Museum  of  Fine  Arts.  After  having  seen  the 
residue  of  the  time-worn  collection,  the  critical  traveler  is  not 
unwilling  to  credit  the  whispered  report  that  most  of  the 
really  fine  old  treasures  have  disappeared  and  that  spurious 
ones  have  replaced  them  —  a  common  procedure  in  Japan. 
One  of  the  choicest  gems  of  the  collection,  a  beautiful  Kanaoka 
Kwannon  of  exceptional  refinement,  painted  in  marvelous 
velvety  black  bordered  with  delicate  gold  tracery,  was 
acquired  by  a  French  artist  in  1900.  The  well-executea  sub- 
stitute, in  charming  rose  flecked  with  black  and  gold,  shows 
the  goddess  standing  on  a  lotus  all  swathed  in  diaphanous 
scarves,  while  a  boat  containing  a  man  and  a  child  bunets  the 
angry  flood  at  her  feet.  Though  ascribed  to  the  inunortal 
Kanaoka^  it  shows  little  of  tibe  masterful  quality  of  his  work. 
—  Closely  identified  with  the  life  history  of  the  Daitokurji  is 
the  name  of  Rikyuy  Hideyoshi^s  aristocratic  master  of  the 
tea-ceremonies.  He  designed  one  of  the  chaseki  of  the  apart- 
ments, the  others  being  by  Kobori  EnshUf  and  considered  as 
the  last  word  in  that  subtle  craft.  The  curious  old  sculptured 
wood  image  of  Rikyu,  carved  by  his  own  hand,  is  greatly 
prized  by  the  temple  authorities,  and  is  enshrined  in  a  reli- 
quary in  the  upper  story  of  the  big  sammon. 

The  Hojo,  which  directs  the  group  of  surroimding  temples, 
Eind  to  which  the  visitor  is  now  conducted,  is  nearly  300  yrs. 
old.     The    apartments    (with  *  nightingale*    floors)   contain 
some  sepia  fusuma  with  freely  sketched  landscapes  (by  Kan6 
Tanyu)  showing  mt.  views  in  the  heart  of  China  (one  of  GodoshVa 
favorite  themes),  and  some  folding  screens  depicting  Chinese 
boys  at  play.    The  heavy  black-lacquer  equipment  of  the 
shrine  in  the  first  room  imparts  a  gloomy  look  to  it;  the 
handsome  emV)roidered    brocade    hangings  of  the  entrance 
to  the  recess,  almost  covered  with  white  wistaria  (shiro  fuji)^ 
formed  part  of  the  original  ceremonial  robes  of  Nobunaga, 
The  gilded  image  at  the  altar  is  of  Shaka  Nyorai.   The  small 
reliquary  at  the  right  contains  an  image  of  Daito- Kokv^hiy 
and  the  recessed  one  at  the  left  the  funeral  tablets  of  A^o6im« 
aga  and  Go  Daigo-tenno.    A  prized  possession  is  the  ugly  old 
polychrome  wood  and  iron  incense  koro  (of  Chinese  origin  and 
said  to  be  700  yrs.  old)  called  Devilfish  Incense-Burner  from* 
its  fancied  resemblance  to  one  of  these  repulsive  creatxix*^. 
The  two  old-gold  folding  screens  (by  Kano  Tan^vtC)  ^^s^^ 
the  cherry  blooms  of  Voshino  and  the  maples  oi  ToJteuiUi.*  ^A 
a  side  room  (which  the  visitor  should  see)  is  a  V>\ia.XTft  V^Sk^ 
^$0no  abowing  a  Kwannon  against  a  black  back®»viLxA.vl^^ 
nveiTS  the  lotus  on  which  she  sitp,  tjie  abado^^  wA*  ^^^ 


488    RouU  27.  EYOTO  KenkwrirJinthi. 

nimbus  are  all  made  up  of  minute  ideograph  characters  writ- 
ten in  gold,  setting  forth  the  text  of  the  Buddhist  Bible  — 
hence  the  name,  Kyomon  kinji  Ktvannon,  The  (modem) 
work,  which  must  have  required  years  of  painstaking  toil,  ^ 
and  which  shows  the  caressing  touch  of  a  hand  at  once  tal- 
ented and  fired  with  religious  zeal,  is  a  marvel  of  microscopic 
perfection.  —  The  big  iron  rice-kettle  on  the  porch  formed 
a  part  of  Hideyoshi^s  camp  equipment.  From  a  certain 
point  on  the  side  porch  an  attractive  view  (one  rendered 
locally  celebrated  by  Kobori  Enshu,  who  designed  the  gar- 
den) is  had  of  Hiei-zan,  which  here  bears  a  sUght  resembkmce 
to  Fyji-san.  The  fringe  of  pine  trees  along  the  edge  of  the 
Kamo-gawaf  in  the  near  foreground,  is  supposed  to  recall  the 
classical  shore  of  Mio-no-Matsubara,  The  pretty  front 
garden  with  its  always  freshly  raked  pile  of  sand  in  imitation 
of  the  sacred  Fujif  was  also  designed  by  EnshU,  —  The 
HigurashirnO'Tnon  (gate)  at  the  other  side  is  a  national  treasure, 
and  came  from  Hideyoshi^s  Momo-yama  Palace  (goten); 
though  now  sadly  weather-beaten  and  stained,  it  still  shows 
the  vigorous  touches  of  Hidari  Jingoro's  master  hand.  The 
pair  of  huge  peacocks  which  stand  on  the  central  beam  are 
admirable;  pine  trees,  the  mythological  Hririf  the  dragon,  and 
various  flowers  are  employed  in  the  motive. 

The  traveler  with  time  to  spare  will  wish  to  spend  some  of 
it  strolling  through  the  stately,  park-like  grounds  sprinkled 
with  grandiose  architectural  relics  and  crossed  by  avenues  of 
patriarchal  trees.  They  are  not  unlike  the  beautiful  cir- 
cumvallation  of  the  Miyoshin-ji  (described  hereinafter),  par- 
ticularly when  flaming  with  reddening  maples  or  the  clustered 
red  berries  of  the  prevalent  nanten.  The  temple  bonzes  often 
add  to  the  monasterial  asp>ect  of  the  place  by  wearing  resplen- 
dent old-fashioned  costumes  in  which  queer  shovel  hats  and 
brilliantly  embroidered  Chinese  shoes  are  conspicuous  fea- 
tures. As  they  pace  slowly  along  the  sequestered  walks  be- 
neath the  lofty  trees,  mumbling  their  prayers  and  clicking 
their  rosaries,  they  recall  certain  of  the  conventual  estates 
aroimd  Seville.  —  From  every  salient  point  of  the  great 
temple  roofs,  now  sadly  mauled  by  the  elements,  there  look 
down  demon-tiles,  or  Onigawara.  The  furious  distorted  faces 
remind  one  strongly  of  certain  human  types,  as  they  evidently 
do  the  natives,  since  a  sour-visaged  person  is  frequently 
called  Onigawara!  —  Before  leaving  the  grounds  a  moment 
should  be  devoted  to  the  hoary,  bam-like,  impressively  silent 
Hodo,  with  a  sepia  dragon  on  the  ceiling  by  Kano  TanyH, 
The  nnely  gilded  Shaka  in  the  tile-floored  BiUsurden  is  ^so 
worth  Jooking  at.  The  polyclorom^  Uumu  oii  the  ceiling  are 
oow  faded  beyond  recognition. 

The  Kenkim-Jinsha,  a  Shinto  a\iT«ve,  \^  xi^.jh^*.^:^. 
^  the  Daitohu^%  {V\.  B,  \\  cxo^nivb  t\i^  svxmmxX.  ^\  ^tsnbAiA 


TojUn  Monastery.  KYOTO  S7.  Bouie.    489 

hill  (fine  view)  called  Funaokoryama  from  its  fancied  resem- 
blance to  a  funCf  or  boat.  The  new  granite  steps  date  from 
1912,  when  Kyoto  city  gave  1000  yen  and  the  Emperor  700, 
for  the  rehabilitation  of  ihe  decaying  fane.  The  spirit  of  Oda 
Nohunaga  is  worshiped  here,  and  his  crest  shares  the  place 
of  honor  beside  the  16-petal  chrysanthemum;  the  numerous 
pictures  in  the  ex-^oto  hall  refer  to  his  epoch.  The  old  green 
machine-gun  in  the  yard  at  the  foot  of  the  short  ascent  was 
captured  from  the  Russians  during  the  late  war.  —  The  dis- 
trict which  one  traverses  to  reach  this  shrine,  or  the  Daitokvr^ 
jif  is  the  Nishijin  quarter,  where  much  silk-weaving  is  done. 

The  T6ji-in  an  historic  Buddhist  temple  (PI.  A,  1)  about 
i  M.  S.W.  of  the  Kitcmo  Tenjin  (jinriki  in  10  min.,  15  «cn), 
was  established  about  1360  b^  Ashikaga  Takauji  and  is  known 
for  its  collection  (of  histonc  rather  than  artistic  interest) 
of  sculptured  busts  of  all  the  Ashikaga  shdguns  except  Yoshi- 
kazu  (5th,  1423-25)  and  Yoshihide  (14th,  1564-68 —•  mur- 
dered when  4  yrs.  old  by  his  guardian).  Some  of  the  images 
were  removed  to  the  dry  bed  of  the  Kamo-gawa  (where  the 
heads  of  criminals  were  formerly  exposed),  in  1863  (when 
iconoclasm  was  considered  meritorious  by  certain  pseudo- 
patriots),  and  others  substituted  by  carvers  of  meager  skill. 
Individual  character  is  strongly  depicted  in  a  few  of  the  faces, 
most  of  which  are  adorned  with  tiny  mustachioe  and  small 
black  goatees.  Puffy-cheeked  gourmands,  hatchet-faced 
recluses,  and  square-jawed  dictators  predominate.  Flowers 
and  tea  are  placed  before  the  figures  every  day.  —  The  broad 
road  leads  left  from  the  granite  torii  at  the  entrance  to  Kitano 

'  TenjiUy  and  the  distance  can  be  covered  leisurely  on  foot  in 
15  min.;  the  last  half  is  across  country  past  garden  patches 
where  turnips  almost  as  big  as  watermelons  are  produced. 
The  temple  stands  in  a  pretty  bit  of  woodland  which  flames 
with  maples  in  early  Nov.  The  rounded  summit  of  Kinukasa- 
yama  starts  up  at  the  right;  the  big  gate  sits  quite  across  the 
end  of  the  path  and  is  unmistakable.  Tickets  (10  sen)  must 
be  bought  at  the  wicket  inside  at  the  left.  The  interior  of 
the  edifice  is  like  a  primitive  Anglo-Saxon  grange,  with  big 
hewn  beams  and  tree-trunks  set  into  white  plastered  walls  — 
after  the  Yamato  style.  The  rooms  containing  the  exhibits 
of  screens  and  minor  relics  are  skimpy,  and  their  faded  con- 
tents without  much  merit.  In  the  firat  room  the  bonze  shows 
one  a  kakemono  of  Daruma  in  rosy  flesh  pink,  erroneously 
ascribed  to  Sesshu;  the  next  one  contains  a  fairly  good  land- 
scape in  rich  old  green  on  a  faded  gold  ground  by  Kano 
Sanraku.  In  this  and  the  following  rooms  are  aloo  aYi^TfiksXi 
and  spear  which  belonged  to  Takauji;  Bome  aged  t^V5»  c>\ 
YosMmitsu,  many  kakemonos  and  banners  inBcribed  Vj  ^^ 

mouB  men;  some  old  clocks,  bits  of  lacquer  andbToivLe,  ©M- 
a  few  sliding  screens  of  little  value 


490    Bauie  m.  KYOTO  Toji4,n  Monakert. 

The  visitor  is  now  conducted  across  .a  small  landscape 
garden  whose  withered  and  puckered  appearance  may  be  due 
to  the  astringent  juices  of  the  many  persimmon  trees  which 
grow  therein.  S6ami  is  said  to  have  planned  it,  and  it  was  one 
of  Yo8hima8a*8  favorite  retreats,  whither  he  came  often  to 
hobnob  with  the  scholar  and  to  drink  tea  in  the  quaint  little 
rustic  house  which  overlooks  one  of  the  ponds.  Near  by  is 
the  moss-grown  tomb  of  Takauji,  Connected  with  the  maui 
temple  by  a  corridor,  and  entered  from  the  side  facinff  the 
garden,  is  a  tomb-like  room  with  a  cold  concrete  floor  (foot- 
covering  desirable)  where  the  collection  of  images  is  enshrined. 
Tbe  big  dragon  on  the  ceiling  is  accredited  to  Sozan.  The  first 
figure  at  the  left  is  Yoshimasa,  the  8th  shogurif  and  following 
in  the  order  named,  are:  YoshikcUsu,  7th,  who  succeeded  hia 
father  when  8  yrs.  old,  and  died  2  jrrs.  later  from  a  fall,  from 
his  horse;  —  Yoshinori,  6th,  who  was  assassinated  in  1441 
at  a  feast  to  which  he  was  invited  by  his  friend  AkamcUsu 
MUsusvke!  —  Yoshimochi,  4th;  —  Yoshimitsu  (with  a  sweep- 
ing beard),  3d,  after  Tdkauji,  the  most  remarkable  of  the 
Ashikaga  shoguns;  —  Yoshiakiraf  2d;  —  and  Takaijji, 
founder  of  the  dynasty.  At  the  end  of  the  room  is  a  shrine 
with  a  seated  figure  of  Skaka  accompanied  by  Anan  (a  rela- 
tive and  one  of  his  first  disciples);  and  (left)  Kasho  (also  a 
disciple),  who  is  remembered  because  he  is  said  to  have  swal- 
lowed tne  sun  and  moon  —  after  which  his  body  became 
more  brilliant  than  gold!  His  black-and-white  checkered 
robe  displays  none  of  this  brilliancy.  Nor  do  any  of  the  images 
display  the  masterful  touches  of  the  great  ifnkei  to  whoin 
they  are  airily  attributed.  The  figure  with  black  wood  Chinese  * 
shoes  sitting  before  him,  on  the  opposite  dais,  is  the  renowned 
Toktigawa  leyasu;  his  neighbor  is  Yoshihisa,  9th  {Ashikctga) 
shogun;  the  next  Yoshitaniy  10th;  —  Yoshizumif  11th;  — 
YoshiharUf  12th,  a  small,  dyspeptic  man  apparently  too 
ansemic  to  grow  a  beard,  and  looking  much  like  a  dwarf 
between  the  well-fed,  robust  giants  at  his  right  and  left;  — 
Yoshiteru,  13th,  who  commited  harakiri  (p.  clxx)  when  30  yrs. 
old  (in  1565) ;  —  Yoshiaka,  15th  and  last  of  the  line,  who  was 
succeeded  by  Oda  Nobunaga,  one  of  Japan's  greatest  rulers.* 

In  the  succeeding  rooms  are  various  belongings  of  the  Ashi- 
kaga, In  a  small  glass  globe  enshrined  in  a  pagoda-shaped 
reliquary  are  three  tiny  objects  about  the  size  of  bird-shot  — 

1  The  position  of  Shogun  was  not  conducive  to  longevity.    More  than  one 
was  assassinated  in  early  life,  and  great  trials  must  have  beset  the  others, 
for  the  average  length  of  life  of  the  15  was  38  yrs.     Yoshiaki  died  at  61,  a 
humiliated,  shaven-headed  bonze  who  was  forced  to  beg  an  asylum  from 
hia  friends,     Yoahitane  died  in  exile  at  58.     Yoshimasa  succeeded  in  living 
to  the  age  of  65  by  becoming  a  bonift  and  pasavuvt  his  last  days  in  the 
Quaa-ee^umon  of  the  Ginkaku-ji.  H\b  iace  earned  s^  weexiv^XiXJccL^^^Vach  is 
said  to  have  been  imparted  by  the  great  c\\ia.Ti\,\\\ea  o\  Ktefe^.\&«.dT^^^Vi 
Altt  at  liifl  favorite  c/iW^uoeremomes.    '^^^  *^^f  T^^^^^X^"^^^ 
at  S3.     YoshimUsu  died  at  50,  and  the  temaiudex  ^x.  a«fi^\«.\.^«^^  'W  wA  « . 


Otmtro  Gos^.  KYOTO  £7.  Route.    491 

one  green,  one  white,  and  one  brown;  the  credulous  believe 
they  are  Buddha's  bones.  Hard  by  is  a  folding  screen  and 
some  sliding  panels  (by  Sanrc^)  showing  pictures  of  Chinese 
boys  at  play  and  depicting  episodes  in  the  lives  of  the  Twenty- 
four  Paragons  of  Filial  Piety.  The  three  rather  striking 
kakemono  of  aesthetic  priests  (early  votaries  of  Hie  tenu>le) 
are  by  Kano  Tanyu.  An  autograph  letter  of  the  Taiko  Hide- 
yoshi  is  preserved  in  the  next  room,  along  with  many  other 
relics  of  him.  The  sliding  screens  in  the  shrine  room  carry 
Chinese  scenes  painted  by  SanraJcu,  The  kakemono  of  the 
16  Rakan  is  by  an  unknown  (Chinese)  artist.  The  Jizo  in 
the  shrine  is  ascribed  to  Kobo-Daishi,  In  an  adjoining  room 
is  a  quaint  old  Map  of  the  Buddhist  World^  and  in  another 
one  a  banner  on  wluch  Buddha's  name  is  written  3(XX)  times! 
The  dragon  kakemono  is  attributed  to  Kano  Motonobu  — 
which  should  be  accepted  witli  reserve.  The  faded  old  tablet 
—  a  much  prized  relic  —  bearing  the  name  of*  the  temple 
was  made  by  Yoshimitsu, 

The  Omuro  Gosho  (or  Ninnarji)j  a  sometime  palatial 
Buddhist  temple  (Shingon^hu)  on  a  high  terrace  in  a  splendid 
old  park  with  lofty  cryptomerias  and  pines  about  1  M.  S.W. 
of  the  Tojirin  (PI.  A,  2),  was  foimded  in  866  by  the  Emperor 
KokOf  who  retired  thither  after  his  abdication  in  899,  shaved 
his  head  and  took  the  name  Kongdhd,  The  road  from  the 
TOjvdn  leads  to  the  right,  and  on  reaching  the  inclosing 
wall  (5  white  lines)  bears  to  tJie  left  and  passes  the  E.  gate. 
Thousands  of  Kyotoites  assemble  here  in  early  spring  to 
witness  the  magnificent  display  of  cherry  blooms  (which 
differ  slightly  from  the  ordinary  flowers),  and  they  repeat 
the  excursion  in  Nov.  when  the  turning  maples  exhibit  tiieir 
fugitive  charms.  The  view  from  the  upper  terrace,  past  the 
main  gate  to  the  lowland  beyond,  is  superb.  The  present 
temple,  with  a  gloomy  intenor  showing  traces  of  former 
beauty,  dates  from  the  17th  cent,  and  is  a  contemporary  of 
the  sturdy  old  pagoda.  The  doors  which  defend  the  chancel 
from  the  narrow  ambulatory  are  richly  adorned  with  black 
metal  fitments  covered  with  gilt  tracery.  A  strikingly  hand- 
some image  of  Shaka  covered  with  heavy  gold  foil  sits  on  the 
central  altar  and  is  backed  by  a  fine  mandorla  embdlished  with 
numerous  smaller  medallion-shaped  ones  roimd  the  edge. 
The  various  sculptured  and  gilded  divinities  at  the  right  and 
left  form  Shaka's  silent  suite.  The  big  kakemono  of  Buddha 
and  his  disciples  is  well  painted.  A  bizarre  and  unusual  fea- 
ture of  the  interior  decoration  is  displayed  on  the  upright 
pillars  and  pilasters,  each  of  which  is  almost  covered  'm^K 
small  painted  medallions  of  Shaka,  —  The  bxoeA  ^ji^^K^^S 
which  runs  past  the  massive  gateway  witb  ita  t^o  ©IJNDl- 
t/c  Arid  leads  (right)  to  Takao-san  (E,  PI.  B,  1^  ce\^T«.\»a 
for  Its  annual  maple  display;  and  Qeft)  to  tiie  Mi-yoahitir^^ 


492    Route  27.  KYOTO  Miydshim^ 

described  below.  The  ferny  dingles  of  the  neighboring  hills 
are  favorite  resorts  of  the  Kyoto  folks,  and  their  beauty  is 
celebrated  that  the  railway  runs  special  excursions  during 
the  flower  seasons. 

The  *Miy5shin-ji  (PL  A,  2),  a  fine  old  Buddhist  temple 
amid  an  agglomeration  of  weather-beaten  but  still  stuixly 
dependencies,  attractively  situated  in  a  75-acre  park  lying 
about  }  M.  E.  of  the  Omuro  GoshOy  and  a  2  min.  walk  up  from 
the  Hanazono  ('flower  garden ')  Station  (rly.  from  the  Nijd 
Sta.  at  Kyoto  in  10  min.),  was  originally  a  viUa  which  belonged 
to  Kiyowara  Natsuno  (782-837)  and  which  afterward  (in 
1318)  became  the  favorite  retreat  (for  30  yrs.)  of  the  Emperor 
Hanazono.  He  presented  it  to  the  bonze  Egen  (Kioaman" 
Kohu8hi)t  who  converted  it  (in  1350)  into  a  temple  and  be- 
came its  first  superior.  The  original  buildings  were  burned 
during  the  Onin  war  (1467),  but  soon  thereafter  were  rebuilt 
and  adopted  as  the  headquarters  of  the  Rinzai  branch  of  the 
Zen  sect.  They  are  still  excellent  relics  of  a  period  when 
temples  were  constructed  of  the  largest  timbers  the  forests 
produced,  with  the  object  of  defying  time,  earthquakes,  and 
the  elements.  Certain  of  the  edifices  resemble  big  Swiss 
chAlets  and  are  constructed  after  the  old  Yamato  tjrpe,  with 
huge  beams  that  show  attractively  against  whitewashed 
plaster.  The  centuries  have  stained  others  among  them  a 
rich  smoky  brown,  and  their  tremendously  heavy  roofs 
sheathed  with  gray,  lichen-spotted  tiles,  and  embellished 
with  huge  dragon-faced  antefixes,  blend  harmoniously  with 
the  somber  conifers,  fantastic  pine,  cherry,  and  maple  trees 
of  the  inclosure.  The  primitive  architecture,  as  it  has  been 
preserved,  represents  faithfully  and  interestingly  the  quasi- 
ecclesiastic,  semi-imperial  residences  which  were  ch^o^cteristic 
of  Kyoto  and  its  environs  in  the  early  days.  With  their 
surroundings  they  are  thoroughly  charming.  The  houses  of 
the  priests  sit  back  in  sequestered,  walled  plots  crossed  by 
neatly  swept  flagged  walks  flanked  by  bronze  statuary,  and 
idealized  by  pretty  landscape  gardens  that  commemorate 
poems  or  war  episodes  of  the  dead  past.  Certain  of  the 
bonzes  cultivate  choice  fruits  and  flowers  that  impart  an  air 
of  repose  and  culture  to  their  enviable  retreats.  There  are 
upward  of  two  score  minor  temples,  priestly  dwellings  and 
apartments  within  the  great  park,  and  the  temple  organiza- 
tion is  said  to  have  3000  or  more  dependencies  scattered 
throughout  the  Empire.  The  sumptuous  decorations  which 
were  lavished  on  the  interiors  of  some  of  the  buildings,  and 
the  sfpiendid  art  treasures  formerly  contained  in  them,  sug- 
gest  wealth  and  refinement.  \JiiioTt.\iwately  the  art  collection 
is  now  incomplete,  but  the  ob\eeta  ^\v\Ocv  xeov^m  ^m\.  \ft  the 
extreme  antiquity  of  the  eBtabVka\vnve^w\..  ^Vvci^afc  T^^\xa^, 
etc.,  predominate,  and  as  maav  ^^  ^^^^  ^^^  ^^^  ^"^  ^^"^ 


Miyoahinrji.  KYOTO  £7.  RotiU.    403 

cent,  and  thereabout,  it  is  thought  that  they  were  imported 
at  a  time  when  Japan  was  still  under  the  deadening  thridldom 
of  Chinese  educators. 

The  road  from  l^e  Omuro  Gosho  brings  one  to  the  back 
gate;  that  from  the  Hanazono  Station  to  the  front  or  main 
entrance.  No  admission  fee  is  charged;  tips  are  customary  and 
acceptable,  but  are  not  obligatory.  The  priestly  guide  con- 
ducts the  visitor  first  to  a  room  containing  numerous  relics; 
the  two  strikingly  handsome  madreperl  Chinese  screens  were 
gifts  from  an  early  emperor;  the  pair  of  superb  kakemono 
showing  tigers  and  dragons  —  both  the  quintessence  of  energy 
and  fierceness  —  are  by  some  Chinese  artist  of  the  Ming 
Dynasty.  The  indifferent  picture  of  a  pop-eyed  Daruma  is 
ascribed  to  Kano  Maaanobu.  The  screen  with  nacre  insets 
is  manifestly  Korean  and  is  an  excellent  specimen  of  very  old 
work.  Among  the  other  objects  are  two  big  panels  of  cranes, 
distinctively  well  executed,  and  ascribed  to  a  Chinese  em- 
peror; a  rich  dark  green  kakemono j  velvety  in  its  verdant  soft- 
ness, depicting  a  Chinese  landscape  with  mts.  in  the  back- 
ground and  a  picturesque  temple  m  a  romantic  glen,  also  by 
an  imknown  Chinese  painter;  a  kakemono  in  sepia,  showing 
a  Chinese  river  and  mt.  scene,  by  Toha  Sqjo;  a  repulsive, 
bulbous-bellied  Hotel,  drawn  in  faded  ink,  by  Mokkei  (a  Chi- 
nese painter  of  the  11th  cent.);  two  unequal  tiger  and  dragon 
Eictures  by  Kano  Tanyu;  and  numerous  pictures,  bronzes, 
icquered  objects,  and  what-not,  of  greater  or  less  worth. 
Those  which  the  critic  is  apt  to  consider  too  conventional 
and  too  destitute  of  character  to  belong  in  the  collection 
are  perchance  retained  for  their  historic  associations. 

In  the  Ho  jo  (where  the  prior  dwells)  are  some  effective 
folding  screens  with  painted  Chinese  figures  on  a  gold  ground, 
by  Yuso  Kaikoku,  and  a  very  ordinary,  neutral-tintSi  tiger 
and  dragon  screen  by  the  same  artist.  The  superior  old 
Chinese  madreperl  stand,  and  the  distinctively  handsome 
brown  silk  kakemmw  showing  flower  groups  are  by  an  un- 
known Chinese  artist.  The  next  room  contains  a  number  of 
inferior  fiisuma,  bearing  landscapes  and  river  scenes  in  dead 
white  and  black,  by  Kano  Tanyu,  but  by  no  means  in  lus 
best  manner.  The  adjacent  shrine  room  has  a  handsome  black- 
and  gold-lacquered  reliquary  in  which  a  gleaming  Shaka  sits 
in  golden  dignity  between  his  faithful  Monju  and  Fugen,  and 
numerous  mortuary  tablets  of  dead  notables.  The  floors  are 
the  so-called  'nightingale*  or  singing  floors  referred  to  under 
Architecture  (p.  clxxx). 

The  Ceremonial  Hall,  with  its  cold  stone  floot  ^lA^^ 

wide,  empty  interior  frowned  down  upon  by  a  nan&XtoitN  ^^a^ti 

too  hastily  attributed  to  TanyU,  is  supported  by  A&  tLX^ga '^'^'- 

lars  and  pilasters,  some  of  the  former  2  ft.  or  more  Vn.  dVaxofi^^^. 

The  immensely  tall  pine  tree  which  oveiBhaAoYfa  OM^  cscPCOKt 


I 


4<M    Route  27.  KYOTO  Miyoshinii. 

ot  the  structure  ia  called  Sekko,  from  the  prieet  who  is  said  to 
havQ  planted  it  upward  of  450  yra.  ago.  The  corridor  leads 
to  the  BuUi^kn,  with  a  ponderous  altar  of  heyaki  mwd  in 
the  natural  finish  rising  from  a  black-lacauerad  base;  above  it 
are  8<Hne  crisply  carved  Dogs  of  Fo,  ana  dragons  with  bold, 
provoiiative  ivor^  eyes.  The  central  figure,  seated  beneath  a 
ehowcr  of  tinsel,  is  Shaka,  with  Kaako  at  the  right  and  AJian 
at  the  left.  Both  the  latter  have  variegated  robea  and  all  stand 
out  in  striking  fuahion  from  the  plain  ^old  backgrouad.  The 
floor  of  the  great  haU  la  made  of  blauk  tiles,  and  the  chill  of  the 
winter  (1881)  when  they  were  laid  acoma  to  have  remwn«i 
with  them.  The  figures  in  the  two  amailer  altars,  with  curious 
shovel  hats  and  bizarre  robea,  are  of  early  priests.  The  beau- 
tiful graining  of  the  supporting  keyaki  columns  ia  noteworthy. 
The  Revolving  Library  (Kyoioj  is  hard  by  the  B^Usui-den: 
the  complete  Buddbiat  scriptures  are  said  to  be  archived  in 
the  big  central  reliquary,  which  though  seemingly  immovabiB 
is  BO  pivoted  that  it  can  be  revolved  oy  a  stroi^  shove.  The 
guarihan  demons  around  Iho  base  of  the  revolving  stand  are 
By  Cku-^n.  FiirDaiski  occupies  hia  cuatomary  seat,  and  hia 
cumbersome  Chiueae  shoes  sit  at  hia  feet  awaiting  hie  plea- 
sure; Ijut  hia  two  sons  are  absent.  — A  short  walk  down  » 
flagged  way  between  Unes  of  dwellings  formerly  occupied 
by  priests  stands  the  Kaisando  (Founder's  Hidl)  said  to 
be  550  yra.  old;  the  pilaaters  all  rest  in  bronie  sockets,  and 
the  black  ceiling  imparts  a  dusky  aitd  mournful  look  to  tlifl 
black  room.  The  image  on  the  dingy  altar  is  MTis5-Kakiishi, 
one  of  the  firat  priests  of  the  estabnshment.  Hard  by  is  the 
Nehan-do,  whoso  chief  object  of  interest  ia  a  thidc,  upri^l 
I  bronze  slab  intricately  chiseled  (by  Yoshioka  Buzen)  with 
'  scores  of  tiny  people,  birds,  and  animals;  all  loved  the  Buddlu 
'  and  are  now  aeon  sorrowing  as  be  lies  above,  being  prepared 
for  his  entombment.  The  Kyokuhd-in,  which  is  alsonear  by,  i< 
not  generally  shown  unless  the  visitor  asks  to  aee  it;  the  figurt 
on  the  altar  at  the  back  of  the  main  room  ia  of  the  Emperar 
HanazQTU).  The  four  panels  which  serve  as  doors  \a  the  shrine 
are  excellent  specimens  of  16th-cent.  Korean  madrepeii 
inlay;  the  landscapes  and  houses  are  skillfully  and  carefully 
done.  The  gold  panels  at  the  right  and  left  of  the  passageway 
are  decorated  with  phtEnixes  by  Kan6  Yaxunobv,  who  also 
painted  the  very  ordinary  white  and  black  fuauma  in  the  ad- 
joining rooms.  Another  room,  to  which  visitors  are  not 
admitted  unleas  provided  with  special  letters  of  introduction, 
is  of  peculiar  interest  to  art-lovcra  because  Motonobu,  one  of 
the  most  celebrated  painters  of  the  Kano  school  (p.casvn), 
spent  several  aeasoiiB  hete  atudytnK  the  subtle  teachings  of  the 
Zen  se(it,  and  painting  p\cWtea  ■«\ii:'i\  \qt  TCMv-a  -jtMs  ni«i« 
the  Miu6shin-n  a  Meccvv  Iot  aAnMWB  q\  ■Cdr,  ^e^  ■'™*f  * 
fforJc.    Hi^  sometime  aludVo  B\aais\>afiVxTi^-s»ii«^«^^ 


Miydahin^i.  KYOTO  27.  RmOe.    495 

side  of  the  main  temple,  and  is  noteworthy  for  the  bronze 
statue  (in  the  yard)  of  Kwannon  wearing  an  East  Indian 
head-dress.  The  priest  in  charge  of  the  rooms  may  ask  t^e 
traveler  with  credentials  to  return  another  day.  as  the  best 
pictures  are  generally  stored  in  the  fireproof  godown.  When 
they  are  brought  out  for  inspection  they  are  hung  upon  hooks 
driven  into  a  cross-beam  high  up  from  the  floor,  then  folded 
away.  —  Of  the  49  excellent  Juauma,  forming  one  set  which 
MoUmdbu  painted  and  which  better  to  preserve  the  Emperor 
Reigen  (1663-86)  caused  to  be  mounted  as  kakemono;  and 
of  the  53  of  another  set  of  equal  value,  but  4  specimens  remain, 
the  rest  having  been  distributed  among  the  iV^ara,  Kydto, 
and  Tokyo  museums.  They  show  two  aspects  of  the  genius 
of  this  Far  Eastern  master;  the  first  set,  of  panels  of  large 
dimensions,  displayed  landscapes  in  the  Chinese  style,  with 
persons  walking  in  them  'marked  by  that  somewhat  brusque 
and  angular  drawing  of  rocks  and  trees  which  distinguishes 
one  of  MotonoMs  manners.  Some  of  the  landscapes  were 
continued  in  several  }u8um4i8^  thus  forming  vast  compositions. 
They  were  executed  in  color,  with  very  light  yellows  and 
bistres;  one  a  pure  landscape  without  figures,  representing 
geese  going  to  drink.'  The  second  series  of  49  were  painted  in 
Motonobu^s  more  normal  manner;  more  Kanoesgue,  in  black 
and  white,  and  in  the  genre  in  which  MotonoMs  talent  attains 
its  finest  achievements,  but  with  a  noteworthy  suavity  and 
delicacy  of  touch.  The  'white  of  his  beautiful  paper,  supple, 
rich,  and  generous,  afforded  him  an  ideal  background  for  his 
delicate  grays  and  deep  blacks  —  fit  media  for  the  evocation 
of  those  landscapes  in  which  a  haze  of  dreams  seems  tdways 
to  float!  It  is  impossible  to  forget  the  beautiful  snow-scene, 
the  mountain  background,  with  the  hurricane  sweeping  ob- 
liquely across  it,  stripping  the  willows  in  its  passage,  and  the 
gray,  dead  water,  a  mirror  which  reflects  the  desolate  face  of 
nature.'     (Migneon.) 

The  four  kakemono  which  the  bereft  priest  is  able  to  show 
the  stranger  are  the  most  precious  of  the  temple's  possessions. 
Each  is  about  4  by  6  ft.  painted  on  a  background  of  creamv 
white  wonderfully  preserved;  the  motives  are  mts.  and  wil- 
lows, cranes,  pheasants,  wild  ducks,  and  other  birds,  with 
ponds  and  marshes.    Every  delicate  line  breathes  the  art 
of  which  Motonobu  was  past  master.  The  ftisuma  which  inclose 
the  room  carry  landscapes  in  great  variety — snow-scenes,  mts.. 
and  rivers,  valleys  and  plains.    They  have  been  badly  handled 
and  stained,  and  the  faded  blacks  show  drearily  against  the 
dimmed  white  background.    In  the  shrine  at  the  b«bCkolV5aa 
room  are  two  seated  wood  figures   extxayoxdinanV^  \ji^K^5ft\ 
the  abbot  Kokushi  sita  at  the  left,  and  Yna  Xftaeu'sc  «b\.  ^3s» 
ngbt.  At  the  extreme  left  is  a  small  scuiptared  viood  vem«»^ 
«r  the  Bmperor  Go-Nara.  Motanolm'a  moTtviax^  \aX>\^VvaAiRS»' 


496    Route  27.  KYOTO  Sag<i-n<hShakaM. 

The  Kydto  Nursery  (Kydto  no-^  2  min.  walk  S.  of  the 
Hanazono  Station  (PI.  A,  2),  is  well  worth  visiting  (free,  no 
fees)  if  the  traveler  finds  himself  in  the  locality.  There  is  the 
usual  collection  of  lovely  flowers,  with  (in  season)  a  choice 
exhibit  of  chrysanthemums.  Among  the  varied  specimens  of 
this  flower  may  be  seen  unique  16-petal  ones  amazingly  like 
the  Imperial  crest,  grown  on  collarettes  and  tended  with  the 
care  one  might  give  to  a  baby.  Some  resemble  tousled  poodles; 
each  year  some  sort  of  a  novelty  is  produced  in  chrysanthemum 
culture.  Noteworthy  freaks  sell  for  3-5  yen;  others  range  in 
price  (shipment  possible  by  mail)  from  20  sen  upward.  In 
winter  a  charge  of  5  sen  is  made  to  see  the  orchids. 

The  Saga-no-Shaka-dd,  a  Buddhist  temple  of  the  Jodo 
sect,  2i  M.  west  of  the  Miyoshin-ji  (E,  PL  B,  2)  stands 
about  i  M.  N.W.  of  the  Saga  Station  (frequent  trains  in  about 
7  min.)  in  a  region  dotted  with  many  fine  groves  of  slim  bam- 
boos. Walkers  will  enjoy  the  tramp  over  the  broad  (3  M.) 
highway  —  which  crosses  the  rly.  just  beyond  the  Hanazono 
Skttionj  then  a  lovely,  peaceful  suburban  district  sprinkled 
with  decaying  temples  in  deserted  groves.  The  electric  trolley 
from  Kyoto  to  Arashi-yama  traverses  the  section  and  one  is 
in  constant  touch  with  it.  By  following  the  rails  to  its  station 
af,  Saga,  one  sees  the  rly.  station  just  at  the  right,  and  the 
temple  (12  min.)  at  the  far  left,  embowered  in  evergreen  trees. 
The  (52d)  Emperor  Saga  (810-23),  celebrated  as  one  of  the 
finest  scholars  of  the  age,  and  counted  as  one  of  the  famous 
Sampitsu  ('Three  Pens'),  built  himself  a  palace  here  after 
he  had  abdicated  in  favor  of  his  brother  Junna,  and  for  19 
yrs.  lived  in  retirement.  The  temple  is  said  to  have  been 
founded  at  that  time,  albeit  the  present  structure  dates  from 
the  latter  yrs.  of  the  18th  cent.  It  stands  in  a  fine  ^ove  of 
ancient  trees,  with  here  and  there  a  lotus-pond.  Two  gigantic, 
prayer-bespattered  Nio  gaaxd  the  big  two-storied  gate.  At 
the  foot  of  the  temple  steps  are  handsome  bronze  water-basins 
in  lotus-leaf  designs  and  near  by  is  a  bronze  bell  in  an  old 
belfry.  If  the  traveler  can  so  plan  it,  the  trip  to  the  temple 
should  be  made  in  early  Nov.,  for  then  the  view  of  the  wooded 
slope  of  Ara^hi-yama,  which  overlooks  it  from  the  S.,  is  beau- 
tiful with  its  deep-green  foliage  lit  up  here  and  there  by  bril- 
liant blotches  of  reddening  maples.  The  Arashi-yama  gorge, 
too,  is  very  near  (tram  to  the  city,  15  sen). 

Time  was  when  this  temple  and  the  still  more  ancient  one 

of   Ukumaza  (which  stands  a  short  way  to  the  E.  of  Saga 

and  is  said  to  date  from  628)  enjoyed  the  Imperial  favor  along 

with  that  of  the  people  of  the  entire  countryside,  but  their 

erstwhile  glory  has  departed,  axid  \\i^  \«AXfcT  la.tve  is  tottering   _ 

to  ita  fall    The  jSogo-no-SKakordo  \^  \)aft  \>^\.  \jt^T>i^  ^ 

the  two,  and  stiU  enjoys  cotmideraU^  TexvWl«t^^^^;^v^^ 


Arashi-uama.  KYOTO  27.  Route.    4ff7 

legend  is  associated.  According  to  the  temple  chronicles 
the  image  was  carved  in  India  by  a  well-known  sculptor, 
while  Skaka  was  absent  from  his  monastery.  So  great  was 
the  mourning  of  the  people  at  the  absence  of  their  lord  that 
the  image  shared  it,  and  so  overjoyed  was  it  when  Shaka 
returned  that  it  descended  the  steps  to  meet  him  and  the  twain 
walked  into  the  monastery  together!  A  spirited  painting, 
on  the  wall  behind  the  main  altar,  depicts  13  almost  life-size 
figures  of  sculptors  (with  strongly  marked  Chinese  figures  and 
characteristics)  engaged  in  measuring,  discussing,  and  chisel- 
ing the  figure  —  which  is  said  to  have  been  brought  hither 
from  China  about  a.d.  987.  An  impressive  ceremony  accom- 
panies its  unveiling:  the  priest  places  candles  and  incense 
before  the  reliquary,  kneels,  claps  two  pieces  of  wood  (higo- 
shige)  together  until  the  neighborhood  nngs  with  the  sound, 
and  strikes  a  sonorous  gong,  the  while  chanting  in  a  loud, 
clear  voice  his  adoration  of  the  saint.  This  endures  for  a  full 
minute;  then  the  curtain  rises  slowly  and  reveals  gradually 
the  sacred  figure  in  all  its  graceful,  womanly  beauty.  The 
chant  and  the  accompanying  music  die  away  by  degrees 
as  the  curtain  closes  sottly  over  it.  The  shrine  itself  is  temple- 
shaped  and  strikingly  handsome,  with  a  profusion  of  gold- 
lacquer  enrichments  and  many  compound  brackets  and  poly- 
chrome decorations.  At  the  right  and  left  are  large  images  of 
Monju  and  FugeUf  and  near  them  two  dainty  repositories. 
The  brocade  curtains  and  temple  hangings  generally  bear  the 
three  asarum  leaves  of  the  Tokugawa  crest.  The  carved  tenniriy 
dragons,  the  mystical  Wheel  of  the  Law,  and  the  other  symbols 
which  adorn  the  interior  recall  those  of  the  Nikko  Mausolea. 
The  Gods  of  the  Four  Directions  which  guard  the  shrine 
are  (with  other  figures  in  the  small  repositories)  ascribed  to 
Kobo-Daishi. 

Arashi-yama,  a  high  hill  in  the  W.  outskirts  (E,  PI.  A,  2) 
near  the  Saga  Staiion,  is  one  of  the  most  popular  suburban 
resorts  (electric  tram-cars),  and  is  romantically  situated  near 
a  gorge  down  which  plunges  the  brawling  Hozu-gawa  (that 
later  flattens  out  on  the  plain  and  becomes  HhieKatsura-gawa). 
The  name,  *  Storm  Mountain,'  was  given  it  because  the  native 
artists  delight  to  picture  it  beneath  showers^of  slanting  rain. 
The  vegetation  on  its  side  is  unusually  varied,  and  in  April 
when  the  cherry  blooms  are  out,  or  in  Nov.  when  the  maples 
are  in  their  prime,  ^ousands  foregather  here  to  witness  the 
lovely  sight.    Many  of  the  cherry  trees  are  very  old  and  are 
descendants  of  others  brought  hither  at  the  instance  of  the 
Emperor  Kameyama  (1260-74),  from  the  celebrated  Yo%\wrvo« 
yama  near  Nara,  the  source  of  supply  for  t\ie  bea\.  \.t«r»  Va. 
ibe  Empire.    Arashi-yama  bears  much  the  Bajne  t^bAaoxl  \o 
Kyo^  that  Mukojima  in  its  prime  did  to  T5Vyo,  estefeV^AM* 
itat  the  Soral  range  ia  wider.    A  number  oi  pT«i\Xv  cwia^^ 


498    RmOe  e7.  KYOTO  Hdzu-gawa  RapHa. 

enliven  the  region,  and  there  are  'Moon-gazing/  'Emperor- 
visiting/  and  other  bridges,  several  famous  restaurants,  and 
what>-not.  Travelers  in  quest  of  mild  adventure  usually  visit 
the  place  in  connection  with  the  shooting  of 

The  Rapids  of  the  H5zu-gawa.  The  narrow,  shallow  river 
(65  M.  long)  rises  in  the  adjoining  province  of  Tamba,  and 
after  meandering  in  a  piu*poseless  way  across  an  upland  plain 
begins  its  precipitous  dash  to  lower  levels  near  the  small 
town  of  Hdzu  —  whence  its  name.  The  usual  custom  is  to 
proceed  to  Kameoka  Station  on  the  Sonohe  Rly.  (11  M.  from 
Nijd  Station  J  in  50  min.;  fare,  48  sen;  Rte.  29),  thence  walk 
(10  min.  at  the  right)  to  the  boat-landing  at  Hdzu.  Boats 
can  be  arranged  for  in  advance  by  telephone  (from  the  hotel) 
and  will  be  in  waiting.  Prices  vary,  but  the  upward  tendency 
is  maintained.  For  a  boat  that  will  seat  (chairs)  4-6  pers. 
¥8  is  ample.  The  downward  glide  to  (13  M.  Arashi-yamd) 
is  made  in  IJ  hrs.  with  a  fair  current.  When  the  water  rises 
above  a  certain  mark  the  boatmen  refuse  to  go.  The  best 
season  is  in  April,  after  the  spring  freshets,  when  the  cherry 
blossoms  are  out,  the  hills  begin  to  flame  with  the  azaleas  that 
glorify  them  in  May,  and  a  good  volume  of  tawny  water 
pounds  against  the  rocks.  —  The  boats  are  strong  and  flexible 
(30  ft.  long,  6  wide,  and  3  deep)  and  draw  about  4  in.  of  water. 
The  pliant  bottom  (a  rigid  one  would  be  crushed)  gives  as  it 
scrapes  over  the  rocky  bed  and  imparts  an  odd  sensation  of 
insecurity.  Four  athletic  men  work  the  sculls  and  yvlo.  At  the 
Fvdo  Cataract .  where  the  open  stretch  is  about  300  ft.  long 
and  25  wide,  the  boat  sweeps  forward  at  disconcerting  speed, 
sometimes  in  a  cloud  of  spray  and  accompanied  by  a  terrific 
roaring.  The  many  dangerous  passes  are  made  with  safety  and 
speed,  as  the  men  are  trustworthy.  It  takes  them  about 
5  hrs.  to  haul  the  boat  back  to  Hdzuj  and  unless  this  can  be 
done  in  the  afternoon  they  expect  an  extra  fee.  By  planning 
the  trip  for  the  forenoon,  one  can  inspect  the  Miyoshin-ji 
and  other  temples  in  its  immediate  neighborhood  in  the  after- 
noon, on  the  trip  back  to  Kyoto,  The  numerous  small  holes 
in  the  rocks  just  above  the  water-line  of  the  river  are  made  by 
the  ends  of  the  bamboo  poles  with  which  the  boatmen  keep 
the  craft  in  midstream.  A  petty  commerce  is  carried  on  in 
the  vicinity  of  the  river  in  the  water-worn  stones  (for  decorat- 
ing landscape  gardens)  found  in  the  river-bed. 

Ar(uhi-yama  is  one  of  the  favorite  haunts  of  the  singular  so-called 
Singing  Frog   (Polypedates  buergeri,  Sclegel,  etc.  —  Jap.  Kajika,  or  'River 
Deer  ';  abo  Kajika-gaeru) ,  a  small,  slender,  darkish  gray  or  brownish  frog 
with  obscure  dark  spots  above  (body-length  of  the  male,  45  mm.;  of  the 
female,  70  mm.),   much  prised  by  the  Japanese,  many  of  whom  will  pay 
hundreda  of  pen  for  a  Bpecimen  with  a  cVeoc^Xax^-ViVLft  wote.  They  are  uau- 
fdly  kept  in  small  cages  contaimna  a  dxmiiiuXaNft  toO&ftx>j  ^\A  vi^%  VWt, 
Btand  OD  the  counters  or  show-caaes  oli^alVvftaloTeft.  YV\^a,«^\^«T%,wA^<^ 
1*B  constitute  their  food.  Wben  ooiiteiit«d  \.\iev  ^^^V>L^  ^w^S: 
piercing  short  whistle,  like  the  touiid  made  ou  ,\f  ^^^^^^^^^^ 
«»eii  frogs  Bold  to  the  unwary  at  50  «en  axe  ol  t\ve  commox^  n w^&vi . 


t^  «    ^^   •  ^ 


Excuraiom.  KYOTO  BT.  Route,    499 

EzcunioiiB  from  Kyoto. 

*HiBi*SAN  AND  Lake  Biwa  (KarabakiPinb.'MiidbbaTbiipijb).  ^Daioo-jt. 

■cYawata  Hachim an  Shbinb. 

Over  ♦ffiei-zan  to  Lake  Biwa  (E,  PL  C-D,  2).  This  is  one 
of  the  best  excursions  in  the  immediate  neighborhood,  as  it 
embraces  numerous  attractive  features  —  a  splendid  pano- 
rama from  the  summit  of  the  mt.,  an  inspection  of  the  EnryakU' 
ji  TempleSy  of  tha  Karasaki  Pine  TreCj  a  ride  on  the  LakCf 
a  visit  to  the  Miidera  TempleSj  and  a  return  vi&  the  under- 
ground canal,  or  overland  by  electric  car. 

A  day  should  be  devoted  to  the  trip  and  a  lunch  taken  from  the  hotel  — 
which  can  be  reached  easily  at  6  p.m.  if  a  7.30  a.m.  start  is  made.  Guide 
0F4)  unnecessary,  as  an  English-speaking  coolie  (¥1.50,  from  the  hotel) 
will  serve  to  point  out  the  way  and  carry  the  luncheon  and  wraps.  The  road 
is  good,  easily  followed,  and  in  most  places  well  traveled.  The  shortest  way 
is  past  the  Kurodani  Temple  (PI.  E,  2)  thence  to  Shirakawa  village  (jinriki 
with  2  men  from  the  hotel,  ¥1.60),  where  one  turns  to  the  right  and  follows 
the  highway  into  the  hills.  The  trip  does  not  necessarily  imply  going  right 
over  the  (2750)  ft.  grassy,  basaltic  hump  of  Hiei-zan,  as  the  popular  road- 
way winds  up  through  a  gulch  on  the  near  (S.)  side,  about  1  M.  below 
iShtmei-ga-4ake,  the  topmost  ridge.  The  shrewd  wind  which  often  blows 
across  the  summit  is  sometimes  uncomfortable;  after  Dec.  1,  it  is  apt  to  be 
decidedly  chilly.  As  the  stiffish  climb  induces  perspiration,  wraps  are  neces- 
sary to  prevent  taking  cold.  Japanese  regard  the  view  as. one  of  the  most 
varied  in  Japan,  since  Biwa,  the  largest  lake,  Ky5to  and  Osaka,  two  of  the 
largest  cities,  and  a  nimiber  of  big  mt.  ranges  are  visible.  The  stone  image 
looking  out  over  Kyoto  is  Dengyd-Daishi.  The  name  Shimei-ga-Uike  means 
(in  Chinese)  '  Blue  Sky  Mountain '  (or  '4-points-of-the-compass  place*) 
in  poetical  allusion  to  the  light  which  pours  into  the  mind  from  aU  eddes 
when  the  Buddhistic  truths  are  clearly  understood.  Htei-zan  is  derived 
from  Hi  (comparison),  ei  (deep  valley),  and  zan  (mt.)  and  is  'compared' 
to  the  sacred  mt.  (of  the  Buddhists)  in  China  called  Ei-zan. 

Shirakawa  Village  (so  named  from  the  small  river  run- 
ning through  it)  is  celebrated  locally  for  stone  lanterns  (for 
temple  grounds)  chiseled  from  the  excellent  gray-and-black 
flecked  granite  (Shirakaworishi)  quarried  from  the  schistous 
flanks  of  Hiei-zan,  Almost  every  male  inhabitant  is  a  stone- 
cutter, and  every  other  house  is  a  workshop  whence  the 
sound  of  chisel  and  hammer  ring  out  almost  ceaselessly.  At 
the  upper  end  (right)  of  the  village  street  the  brawling  river 
turns  a  number  of  big  undershot  or  overshot  water-wheSs  and 
furnishes  power  for  an  equal  number  of  primitive  wire-factories. 
The  deep  ruts  in  the  road  are  caused  by  the  succession  of 
mediaeval  bullock-carts  one  meets,  laden  with  great  buckets 
of  powdered  stone  employed  as  a  glaze  in  the  making  of  toH, 
or  earthenware,  in  the  Kyoto  potteries.  Lines  of  picturesquely 
clad  women  with  great  bundles  of  fagots  on  their  heads  are 
often  met  descending  from  the  higher  slopes.  Pedestrians 
skirt  the  river  for  some  distance;  35  min.  beyond  Shiraho,yDQ» 
a  path  leads  off  from  the  main  road  and  acxoas  (^ei\>^  Ob'^Xi^^ 
brook,  then  beneath  a  torii  with  some  grouped  sUma  vmaJiiM* 
Proceeding  up  this  winding  path  between  big)[i  \n!li\B  ona  c«iisifi» 
(In  50  min.)  to  a  little  terrace  with  a  rest-house  and  a  dfi«ecV«^ 


600    Route  27.  KYOTO  Over 

shrine,  whence  a  magnificent  view  is  had  over  a  wide,  deep, 
silent  valley  to  a  distant  sky-line  of  rugged  mts.  Here  the 
road  bends  round  to  the  right.  Visible  beyond  a  deep  gorge 
into  which  plunges  a  noisy  brook  is  the  giant  bulk  of  Hiei- 
zan;  the  by-path  which  branches  up  at  the  left  20  min.  beyond 
this  point  leads  to  the  summit.  The  main  road  flanks  the  red 
shrine  (left)  and  passes  beneath  the  torii;  15  min.  beyond  this 
one  comes  to  a  fine  gray  granite  toriiy  beyond  which  is  a  narrow 
ledge  called  Nanamagari  ('seven-tumsO  because  at  this  point 
the  road  takes  on  a  decidedly  serpentine  character. 

The  panorama  spread  out  below  is  one  of  the  most  beguiling 
in  the  Empire;  the  eye  embraces  thousands  of  square  miles  of 
mt.  and  valley  land  sentineled  by  snow-crowned  volcanoes 
and  delimned  by  the  jagged  monarchs  of  many  ranges.  Near 
tiie  center,  1500  ft.  below,  lies  the  poetic  and  placid  Lake  of 
Omij  beaded  with  a  half-score  microscopic  towns  and  furrowed 
by  tiny  threads  left  bv  little  steamers  which  at  this  great  height 
look  like  toy  boats  afloat  in  an  azure  pool.  If  it  be  springtime, 
when  the  valley  swoons  beneath  waves  of  sempiternal  sun- 
shine, and  the  wide  and  rich  plains  which  flank  the  lake  flame 
with  a  glory  of  yellow  rape  or  lie  clad  in  soft  robes  of  many 
tints,  the  scene  is  one  of  indescribable  beauty.  At  this  season 
the  sky  which  broods  above  it  is  usually  a  winsome,  dimpling 
blue,  quite  Italian  in  its  charm  and  color.  Between  the  plain 
—  which  from  here  resembles  a  variegated  board  on  a  huge 
easel  tilted  up  on  one  edge  —  and  the  hills  which  hold  the  lake 
fast  locked  in  their  green  embrace,  deep  slashes  mark  the  mt. 
sides,  and  from  their  emerald  depths  rise  dense  groves  of  great 
pines  and  firs  and  cryptomerias  that  look  like  vast  plumes 
when  viewed  from  above.  Flecking  this  wide  expanse  of 
somber  green  are  magnificent  blotches  of  color  formed  by 
flowering  mountain-chwry,  wild  sazankwaj  perennially  crim- 
son maples,  a  veritable  tangle  of  honeysuckle,  and  the  host 
of  flowers  for  which  the  Japanese  hills  are  celebrated.  The 
view  is  stupendous;  the  effect  awe-inspiring,  with  a  charm 
that  will  scarcely  fade  from  the  mind.  From  the  extreme 
summit  of  Hiei-zan  the  vista  is  augmented  by  Kyoto,  Osaka, 
and  the  country  beyond,  including  the  sea,  all  of  which  are 
here  barred  out  by  the  ridge. 

Hence  onward  the  road  winds  to  the  left  along  the  shoulder 
of  the  hill,  now  up,  now  down,  and  always  over  a  terrace  cut 
from  the  green  slope.    From  the  edge  of  this  one  looks  down 
a  thousand  feet  into  impenetrable  forest  depths.    In  the  au- 
tumn scores  of  momiji  add  dashes  of  yellow,  scarlet,  and  nis- 
set  to  the  all-pervading  green.   Later  the  half-bare  spots  are 
alive  with  blue-bloused  peaaaii\a  'wYio  %\\ck  Ivke  mt.  goats  to 
the  steep  declivities  and  garnex  VMfcVt  mivX^et  m^^^  ^Wstv^:^, 
wood.   An  inspiring  walk  oi  \ \xr,\ytvcM^  ^xMt.y^  ^xva'Cwet ^ws^Xa 
<o«»  marking  a  terrace  from  ^\iitVi  \Xi^  v\c^  ^^  ^  ^tX^^yn^ 


to  Lake  Biwa.  EYOTO  «7.  Boufe.    601 

that  it  fatigues  the  mind.  Here  the  road  descends  steeply 
(left)  through  a  fine  forest  of  somber  firs  to  (15  min.)  a  deep, 
silent,  majestic  ^orge  and  a  quaint  and  romantically  situated 
shrine  to  Benten;  the  image  seated  in  a  stonevault  protected 
by  a  wire  mesh  and  guanied  bv  a  granite  t^yrii  is  Fuku  no 
kami  san.  The  stone  kmtems  and  Benten* 8  bronze  biwa  (harp) 
are  pretty.  The  priest's  house  stands  at  the  right  of  the  road; 
herein  one  may  jgurchase  modest  refreshments,  and  while 
lingering  to  enjoy  the  weird  charm  of  the  sequestered  glen 
hearken  to  the  lonely  man's  chatter  and  learn  the  pictm^esque 
history  of  the  spot. 

The  lake  comes  into  view  just  beyond,  and  then  one  sees  at 
the  left,  on  a  walled  terrace  tottering  with  age,  the  old, 
weather-beaten  Fudo  Myo^j  with  fine  views  and  an  uninterest- 
ing interior.  The  road  which  descends  past  the  foot  of  the 
waJl  (and  the  priest's  house  below  at  the  right)  leads  to  (1  hr.) 
SakamotOy  on  the  lake  shore.  Mounting  the  stone  steps  on  the 
near  side  (left)  of  the  temple,  we  soon  emerge  on  a  winding 
mt.  road  which  lays  its  silent,  deserted  length  beneath  won- 
derful old  trees  that  remind  one  of  Kdyorsan.  From  time  to 
time  the  path  leads  past  a  tiny  terrace  whence  a  vast  expanse 
of  land  and  lake  are  visible;  at  a  point  30  min.  beyond  the  Fudd 
Myo-o  a  lateral  path  comes  down  (left)  from  the  summit  of 
Hiei-zan.  Here  the  main  road  goes  off  at  the  right,  beneath 
an  avenue  of  lofty  trees  of  many  varieties,  and  past  a  group  of 
moss-grown  Buddhist  tombs  deserted  in  the  silent  forest  and 
forgotten  of  the  world.  A  walk  of  20  min.  brings  one  to  the 
huge  temples  whose  bronze-covered  roofs  are  discernible 
through  the  trees  beyond  the  deep  gorge  (through  which  the 
path  goes)  at  the  left.  In  the  tiny  settlement  which  clusters 
about  them  is  a  clean  tea-house  provided  with  a  table  where 
one  may  enjoy  one's  luncheon  under  shelter,  and  piece  it  out 
with  hot  tea  or  bottled  goods.  The  largest  of  the  temples. 

The  KoMPON  Chudo,  on  a  terrace  down  at  the  nght,  is  a 
time-stained  but  still  stm*dy  reminder  of  a  period  when  hun- 
dreds of  similar  fanes  are  said  to  have  covered  the  sides  of 
Hiev-zan  and  to  have  been  so  powerful  as  to  constitute  a 
menace  to  the  civil  power  at  Kyoto. 

Historical  Sketch  of  the  Hiei-zan  MonasterieB.    Five  yrs.  before  the 
Emperor  Kwammu  founded  Ky5to  (in  794),  the  bonze  Saichd  (b.  767;  d. 
822;  from  866  known  by  the  posthumous  title  of  DengyS-Daiahi)  erected 
a  small  temple  on  the  summit  of  Hiei-zan  (3  M.  N.E.  of  Ky5to)  and  called 
it  Enryaku-ji,  from  the   era  (of  Enryaku  —  782-806)  in  which   it  was 
founded.  He  had  but  just  returned  from  China  whither  he  had  gone  to  study 
the  doctrines  of  the  Terukii  sect,  which  he  now  proceeded  to  di£Fuse  from 
the  new  headquarters.    In  time  the  temple  became  a  great  monastAry 
which  was  destined  to  bear  '  much  the  same  relatioii  to  moAt  ol  \)qa  'VbXac 
sects  established  in  Japan  that  the  Church  of  Rome  bean  \rO  tXi'^  'VttXvraA 
forms  of  ProtestaDtiam.  It  was  to  be  at  onoe  the  common  moXXieit  voA^diMb 
enemy  of  them  all.   Ita  earlieat  offahoot  was  the  tempVfi  ol  Onift-ji*  '""^'^ 
generally  known  aa  Miidera,  picturesquely  situated  at  the  b«a«  oi  ^awft'taa^ 
on  Biwa  strand,  bemde  the  dty  of  Otsu,    It  was^ot  W  bSoxe  Vt  tox«A 


502    R&ufe  er.  KYOTO  Historical  SkeUh  4 

itself  at  deadly  strife  with  the  parent  fane  —  a  fine  commentary  upon  the 
sincerity  of  the  tonsured  exponents  of  the  religion  whose  central  idea  is  tike 
impermanenoy  of  all  things  and  the  vanity  of  human  wishes.'  After  Ky5to 
was  founded  Saiehd'a  temple  became  of  great  importance  to  the  new  city, 
for  as  Buddhist  superstition  believes  all  evil  comes  from  the  N.E.,  the 
Ki-mon,  or  Devil's  Gate,  the  priests  were  ordered  to  watch  night  ana  day; 
to  pray,  beat  tiie  drums,  ring  the  bells,  and  thus  keep  evil  far  away  from  the 
palace  and  the  capital.  All  this  they  did,  and  more,  for  according  to  the 
records  the  grounds  of  the  many  temples  were  adorned  and  beautified  with 
the  rarest  art  of  the  native  landscape  gardeners.  The  thousands  of  priests 
congregated  here  *  chanted  before  gorgeous  altars,  celebrated  their  splen- 
did ritual,  reveled  in  luxury  and  licentiousness,  drank  their  sake,  ate  the 
forbidden  viands,  and  dalhed  with  their  concubines,  or  hatched  plots  to 
light  or  fan  the  flames  of  feudal  war,  so  as  to  make  the  quarrels  of  the  clans 
and  chiefs  redound  to  their  aggrandizement.  They  trusted  profoundly  to 
their  professedly  sacred  charactw  to  shield  them  from  all  danger.' 

In  the  golden  age  of  Buddhistic  monasticism  there  were  upon  Hxei-zan 
many  thousands  of  priests  and  monks,  who  often  exercised  great  influence 
upon  internal  complications.  They  possessed  great  wealth,  and  landed 
estates  which  extended  irom  the  summit  of  the  mt.  to  the  present  Kiyo- 
mizu-dera.  The  ground  about  the  main  temple  was  as  classic  as  that  about 
Koya-san.  The  powerful  priests  could  make  such  a  show  of  force  that  often 
when  they  went  to  Kydto  to  make  insolent  requests  of  the  hars^sed  Em- 
peror he  sent  out  squads  of  soldiers  to  stop  their  approach  to  the  Palaoe. 
The  exasperated  Emperor  Shirakawa  was  wont  to  say  of  these  truculent 
terrors:  'There  are  three  things  which  I  cannot  bring  under  obedience;  the 
water  of  the  Kamo-gawa,  the  dice  of  the  sugoroku  game  (a  sort  of  back- 
^mmon),  and  the  bonzes  on  the  mt.'  His  predecessors  had,  by  protecting 
the  bonzes,  abetted  their  arrogance,  for  in  961  '  when  Ryogen  (afterwards 
Jie-Daishi),  the  abbot  of  Hxei-zan,  had  a  dispute  with  the  head  of  tiie  Cfion 
Temple  in  Ky5to,  he  settled  it  by  sending  troops  to  drive  out  his  opponent. 
His  Eminence  then  proclaimed  that  it  had  become  apparent  that  in  that 
degenerate  age  the  Law  of  Buddha  had  fallen  into  such  contempt  that  it 
was  hopeless  to  think  of  defending  its  interests  by  ghostly  arms  alone. 
Accordingly  he  mustered  a  number  of  stout  fellows,  had  them  thoroughly 
instructed  in  the  handling  of  such  carnal  weapons  as  swords,  bows,  and 
spears,  and  established  them  as  a  permanent  force  in  the  service  of  the 
monastery.  The  example  was  speedily  followed  by  the  other  great  ecclesi- 
astical foundations;  and  thus  another  cardinal  source  of  unrest  was  added 
to  the  perplexities  of  the  Central  Gov't.  In  989  the  Gov't  sent  a  messenger 
with  a  rescript  appointing  ;a  certain  priest  to  the  abbacy  of  Hiei-zan.  The 
priests  seized  the  document,  tore  it  to  pieces,  and  drove  the  messenger  off 
with  contumely.  The  Gov't  did  nothing  and  the  bonzes  triumphed.  As 
time  went  on  they  waxed  still  more  turbulent  and  audacious.  In  1039, 
when  dissatisfied  with  the  Regent's  distribution  of  ecclesiastical  prefer- 
ment, they  came  down  and  besieged  Fujiwara  Yorimichi's  mansion.  The 
latter  appealed  to  Taira  Naokata,  who  promptly  raised  the  siege,  killed 
many  of  the  priests,  and  lodged  the  ringleader  in  prison.  This  was  the 
beginning  of  the  long  feud  between  the  clergy  and  ih.e  military  —  and 
especially  with  the  house  of  Taira.* 

Oda  Nobunaga  was  the  first  to  strike  a  crippling  blow  at  the  degenerate 
priesthood.   He  had  difficulties  with  the  bonzes  before  1570,  but  it  was  in 
that  year  that  they  began  to  evince  a  determined  and  organized  hostility 
to  him.   Nobunaga  gathered  his  forces,  and  the  priests,  seeing  the  handwrit- 
ing on  the  wall,  made  their  monastery-fortress  as  impregnable  as  possible 
and  awaited  the  onslaught.   Some  of  Nobunaga*s  councilors  remonstrated 
against  his  avowed  intention  to  crush  the  Enryaku-ji,  and  rebelled  against 
the  sacrilege  of  destroying  one  of  the  most  celebrated   seats  of  learning  in 
Japan,  with  an  unbroken  history  of  nearly  700  yrs.   But  he  informed  them 
that  BO  long  as  these  monasteries  existed  his  projects' would  be  continually 
thwarted,  as  they  were  a  prime  souxce  o1  tVie  u&tioaal  disorder  and  anarchy 
be  was  trying  so  hard  to  suppresa.  *  "U 1  do  tio\,  \,«Js.^  \}ftftxa.  ^ni^^y  now,  this 
great  trouble  will  be  everlasting.  MoteoveT, \>Qft«a  ^Tv«&\»N'«^si\fe>iXissvTN^ww.\ 
they  eat  fish  and  stinking  vegetaUeB,lteftT>  coxvmW^,  ''^lS!S^,x'^^^v* 
«»ored  books.  How  can  they  be  vi»\«ii\.  ««aYi^\.  ^vA.  ox  m^\aMv^u\«.T«is>x\ 


HielHsan  Monasteries,         KYOTO  1S7,  Bouts.    503 

Surround  their  dens  and  bum  them,  and  sufiFer  none  within  them  to  live! ' 
In  September  he  adyanced  with  a  strong  army  and  took  the  bonses  by  sur- 
prise. '  Seeing  that  they  were  lost  if  they  could  not  agree  with  the  adver- 
sary at  their  gates,  they  offered  Nobunaga  a  huge  ransom,  but  in  vain. 
Sakamoto^  on  the  lake  shore  at  the  foot  of  the  hill,  was  at  once  fired,  and  the 
assailants  then  stormed  and  burnt  the  monasteries  on  the  lower  slopes  of 
Hxei-zan.  The  bonses  made  a  vigorous  defense  of  some  of  the  strong  posi- 
tions on  the  rocks  and  in  the  domes.  The  final  assault,  delivered  Sept.  29, 
1571,  ended  in  the  extermination  of  every  occupant  of  the  hundreds  of 
monasteries  that  had  studded  the  faces  of  the  mt.  and  its  13  valleys  a  week 
or  so  before.  How  many  priests  actually  perished  in  this  grim  massacre 
cannot  be  stated  with  accuracy;  at  the  lowest  computation  there  must  have 
been  thousands  of  them.'  {Mvrdoch.)  With  the  accession  of  the  Tokttgawa 
shoguna  the  bonzes  were  permitted  to  reestablish  themselves  on  the  heights, 
but  the  glory  of  Enryaku-ji  never  returned. 

The  great  colonnade  of  the  Kompon  Chudo  is  now  but  a 
simulacrum  of  its  former  grandeur,  and  the  wide  inner  court, 
of  Alhambraic  dignity  and  suggestiveness,  is  sadly  neglected. 
The  new  tiled  roof  contrasts  oddly  with  the  weather-beaten 
carvings,  and  with  the  moss-grown  flags  and  vermiculated 
timbers.  —  The  Dai-  KodOf  another  bulky  reminder  of 
Buddhistic  supremacy  in  the  Middle  Ages  of  Japanese  his- 
tory, stands  on  a  higher  terrace  back  of  the  Chudo,  Its  mas- 
sive superimposed  roof  and  vast  proportions  are  strangely 
impressive,  and  they  call  to  mind  the  deserted  palaces  in  the 
dense  forests  of  Yticatan  and  the  Mexican  State  of  Chiapas. 
From  the  darksome,  oppressively  silent  and  melancholy 
interior  a  number  of  sculptured  and  gilded  divinities  gaze 
mournfully  out  to  the  green  glades  which  hem  the  terrace  in. 
The  large  panels  of  carved  polychrome  storks  and  other  birds 
in  high  relief  were  doubtless  beautiful  in  their  prime.  Even 
now  they  are  worth  looking  at,  as  are  also  certain  of  the  minor 
carvings  and  decorations.  The  colossal  bell  in  the  decaying 
campanario  near  the  entrance  to  the  wide  atrium  manifestly 
require  the  united  strength  of  an  army  to  drag  it  up  the  long 
steep  avenue  from  Sakamoto,  Despite  its  years  its  voice  is 
sweet,  and  when  its  mournful  notes  boom  and  echo  through 
the  solemn  forest,  as  if  searching  for  the  grandeur  which  once 
had  its  abode  here,  they  stir  the  blood  and  haunt  the  memory. 
A  wide,  steepish,  beautifully  shaded  road  in  considerable 
disrepair  leads  down  at  the  left  under  lofty  trees  to  (2 J  M.; 
1  hr.)  Kami  (upper)  Sakam^to^  where  a  colossal  granite  torii 
jnsxka  the  lower  entrance.  The  descent  beneath  the  great 
trees  through  which  the  wind  sighs  mournfully,  and  which 
have  looked  down  upon  so  many  thousands'  of  zealous,  plod- 
ding pilgrims,  is  delightful.  Several  crumbling  and  deserted 
wayside  shrines  recall  the  golden  days  of  the  vanished  past. 
One  at  the  left  (10  min.  walk  from  the  temples)  has  ^  cwLYvnwa 
old  green  bronze  slab  rising  in.  Chinese  fasbion  iT0l]Q.^i^aa\>«i«3t 
of  an  alert  tortoise.  The  occasional  vistas  oi  t.\ie\a^^  w^A.  ^"l 
the  villages  on  the  lowlanda  near  it  axe  glotioxia.  Tto  ^aa^ 
stretch  along  the  wide  and  now  fairly  level  avenii^i  ^s  toc^^ 


504    Raide  S7.  KY5T0  Karaaaki  Pine  Tree. 

on  both  sides  by  superb  maple,  cheny,  and  pine  trees,  with  a 
view  past  these  to  the  great  torii  and  the  lake  beyond  that  is 
enchanting.  At  the  village  the  road  bends  abruptly  to  the 
right  and  leads  (30  min.)  to  a  straight  avenue  (left)  lined  with 
long  rows  of  pine  and  cherry  trees  —  the  latter  a  sight  worth 
seeing  in  April  (popular  festival  on  the  12th,  13th,  and  14th). 
A  leisurely  15  min.  stroll  brings  one  to  the  pier  (hatoba)  of 
Shimo  (lower)  Sakamoto  (2  M.  along  the  lake  shore  from  the 
upper  town).  The  traveler  may  now  follow  the  coast  road  on 
foot,  or  in  a  jinriki  or  a  tram-car,  to  (li  M.  —  15  min.)  Karor- 
saki,  for  a  view  of  the  pine  tree  there,  or  he  can  see  this  fn)m 
the  deck  of  the  steamer  (frequent  service)  when  it  stops  there 
(a  few  hundred  feet  from  the  tree)  on  its  way  to  Otsu,  In  this 
case  a  ticket  (8  sen)  should  be  bought  to  Miiderashita  (where 
one  disembarks).  The  view  of  the  green  mts.  at  the  right  as 
the  little  boat  glides  over  the  smooth  surface  of  the  lake  is 
very  pretty. 

The  Karasaki  Pine  Tree  ( Karasakv-no-matsu)  stands  on  a 
walled  esplanade  (in  Karasaki  village,  5  M.  N.  of  Otsu)  near 
the  steamer  landing.  Its  300  or  more  immense  horizontal 
boughs,  upheld  by  wood  crutches  or  stoner  pillars,  curve  awk- 
wardly, and  at  the  top  (25  ft.  or  more  from  the  ground)  tin 
and  wood  copings  have  been  placed  as  a  protection  against 
the  weather.  These  arms,  some  of  which  measure  200-odd  ft. 
from  point  to  point,  reach  out  like  those  of  a  gigantic  and 
repulsive  spider  and  are  almost  bare  of  foliage.  This  weird 
and  unhandsome  specimen  of  a  thousand-year  old  tree  illus- 
trates in  a  curious  way  the  Japanese  love  for  what  is  bizarre 
and  unsymmetrical.  They  delight  in  its  deformed  figure  and 
its  unnatural  and  disproportionately  long  branches.  That  this 
monstrous  growth,  which  has  none  of  the  nobility  of  the  great 
Ta^odium  distichum  of  Santa  Maria  del  Tule  (in  Oaxaca, 
Mexico),  or  the  fine  Banyan  in  the  Botanical  Garden  at  Cal- 
cutta, should  be  considered  one  of  the  notable  sights  in  a 
country  filled  to  overflowing  with  exquisite  things  is  quite 
beyondf  the  understanding  of  foreigners. 

From  Karasaki  a  25  min.  ride  on  the  boat  brings  one  to  the 

Miiderashita  landing  at  Hama-Otsu,  Inn:  Olsu  Hotel  ( Hakkei- 

kwan)y  native  style,  ¥3  a  day.    The  Miidera  Temple  (known 

also  as  Onjo-ji)  stands  in  a  fine  grove  on  the  hill-slope  10  min. 

walk  straight  up  from  the  landing.   The  original  structures, 

erected  in  858  by  the  bonze  Enchin,  were  destroyed  along 

with  their  immediate  successors  by  the  fighting  bonzes  of  the 

EnrydkU'ji  on  Hiei-zanf  who  on  several  occasions  fought  the 

hired  sohei  of  the  Miidera  CtVie  present  seat  of  the  Jimon 

branch  of  the  Tendai^shu) ,  aiidViMni^d\Xv^\x  v^o^xt^j .  A  few 

of  the  present  edifices  (UtK  oti  XXie  \\«X.  ol  \jj^^\^^w^ 

customarily  visit  tiie  tottermfe  o\d  SKa\wi-do  \ft  ^  V\  «;K^ 


Lake  Biwa  Canal.  KYOTO  27.  Bauie.    605 

Bbnkei's  Iron  Pot  (BenkeUruHshiru  habe)f  a  very  old, 
rusted,  and  broken  contraption  (about  5  ft.  wide  and  3  deep) 
resembling  a  soap-boiler,  and  from  which  YoakUsune^s  devoted 
servitor  (and  popular  hero)  is  supposed  to  have  eaten  his 
bean-soup  — ^  which  may  well  be  doubted.  On  a  higher  ter- 
race, housed  in  a  small  shed  (2  sen)  is  Benkei's  Bell  (Behkei 
no  t8urigane)f  a  badly  cracked  affair  which  the  erratic  Benkei 
is  said  to  have  taken  often  to  the  top  of  Hiev-zan  to  ring  dur- 
ing the  night!  The  priests  in  chsurge  of  the  two  doubtful  relics 
will  recount  a  lot  of  balderdash  to  whosoever  will  pause  to 
listen.  More  interesting  is  the  fine  old  Miidera  Bell  (said  to 
have  been  cast  by  Hidesato,  a  lOth-cent.  hero),  about  which 
many  legends  cluster.  Its  strangely  sweet,  penetrating  notes 
form  one  of  the  Eight  (poetic)  Attractions  of  the  Lake  of  Omi, 
and  when  heard  on  a  still  sununer  night  echoing  far  out  over 
the  water  they  make  a  vivid  impression  on  the  mind. 

One  has  the  choice  of  returning  to  Kyoto  by  a  car  of  the 
Kei-shin  Electric  Tramway  (in  30  min.  17  sen)  or  vi&  the  under- 
ground Lake  Biwa  Canal  (sosui)  which  passes  through  the  hill 
on  which  the  Miidera  stands.  Ticket-office  across  the  road 
from  the  canal,  5  min.  from  the  lake.  The  service  depends 
somewhat  upon  the  supply  of  passengers,  but  a  re^lar  boat 
usually  leaves  about  every  half-hour  (fare,  10  sen;  time  about 
1  hr.).  The  unknowing  are  apt  to  be  told  that  the  next 
departure  is  indefinite,  but  that  a  special  boat  (seating  about 
12  pers.)  can  be  hired  for  ¥3.50.  The  boats  are  long,  narrow, 
and  seatless,  with  matting  upon  which  one  squats  on  the  deck, 
beneath  a  low  roof.  A  seat  in  the  triangle  of  the  bow  insures 
one  a  better  view  of  the  canal  and  prevents  crowding.  The 
first  of  the  3  tunnels  (li  M.;  25  min.)  is  entered  immediately 
and  is  followed  by  an  open  strip,  then  the  2d  tunnel  (330  ft.) 
and  (5  min.  later)  the  3d  (2800  ft.).  Dim  electric  lights  point 
the  wav  through  the  dusky  depths  and  many  of  the  craft 
which  loom  out  of  the  blackness  ahead  are  lit  by  flaming 
torches.  Hands  should  not  be  allowed  to  rest  over  the  side, 
as  the  boats  often  scrape  together.  A  man  on  each  halloos 
a  constant  warning  to  approaching  boats.  Vertical  shafts  at 
intervals  admit  air  and  a  feeble  light.  The  landing  is  about 
10  min.  walk  above  the  Miyako  Hold  (near  which  the  tram- 
cars  stop).  The  return  trip  on  the  boat  takes  about  2 J  hrs., 
as  it  must  be  pulled  up  (by  means  of  a  rope  along  the  side  of  the 
canal)  against  the  slight  tide. 

The  primary  object  of  the  canal,  which  cost  1,500,000  ytn  and  was  con- 
structed in  the  5  yrs.  between  1885  and  1890,  was  to  connect  Lake  Biwa 
with  Kyoto  (and  incidentally  to  provide  electric  power  for  that  city)^  tbAnoA 
by  means  of  the  Kamo  River,  with  Osaka  and  the  sea.  1^  vraa  v^aTvTv<^\yi 
Saburo  Tanabe,  is  7^  M.  long,  haa  a  gradient  of  about  1  in  20  and  a  dxQ)\>  <a 
about  J I  ft.  —  until  it  reaches  the  edge  of  the  range  above  liy^to  viV«in»* 
jAe  drop  /s  118  ft.  At  the  latter  point  the  sharp  descent  la  ovexwsmft  Xw  * 

Bteel  trucks  attached  to  a  wire  cable  riumiii*  in  grooved  wYieeAft  ttoA  mWlWr 


506    Boute  27.  EYOTO  Lake  Biwa. 

ated  by  electric  power.  The  KyOto  municipality  is  part  owner  of  the  oanalt 
and  the  traffic  privilege  is  rented  out.  The  canal  which  parallels  the  main 
one  about  60  ft.  to  the  N.  supplies  additional  electrical  energy  for  the  lii^t- 
ing  of  the  city.  Their  open  banks  are  lined  by  cherry  and  mai>le  trees;  in 
June  they  are  the  favorite  resort  of  fireflies,  which  come  here  in  numbers 
almost  as  great  as  at  Uji. 

Lake  Biwa  (Bivxir-ko),  so  named  for  its  fancied  resemblance 
to  a  biwa_(a,  native  4  stringed  lute);  known  also  as  the  Lake 
of  Omi  (Omi  no  Koaui)  because  of  its  location  in  the  heart  of 
Omi  Province,  is  the  largest  (36  M.  from  N.E.  to  S.W.;  12  M. 
wide,  and  approx.  300  ft.  at  its  deepest  point)  of  the  Japanese 
sweet-water  lakes,  and  the  most  interesting.    It  stands  in 
Shiga  Prefecture,  about  328  ft.  above  the  sea  and  is  supposed 
to  have  been  formed  (in  a  single  night)  by  a  depression  left  by 
the  great  earthquake  (b.c.  286)  that  caused  the  lordly  Fyji- 
san  to  rise  to  its  present  height.    The  long  ridge  of  Hiev- 
zan,  Hira-yama,  and  Ko-yama  (the  highest  summits  of  the 
water-shed  between  the  lake  and  the  Kamo^awa)  flank  it  on 
the  W.  (and  form  the  E.  boundary  of  the  Yamashiro  Plain), 
while  toward  the  'E.Ibuki-yama  (4330  ft.)  —  regarded  by  the 
ancient  Japanese  as  the  Devil's  abode  —  rises  grandly.  The 
vast  plain  roundabout  contains  some  of  the  richest  soil  in 
Japan.    Numerous  towns  and  villages  flanked  by  well-culti- 
vated fields  extend  around  the  lake;  the  land  rising  gradu- 
ally in  many  places  into  wooded  mts.  which  reflect  their  ver- 
dure in  the  glassy  waters  and  recall  certain  of  the  lovely 
Swiss  lakes.  Near  Katata,  at  the  S.W.,  it  narrows  preceptibly, 
and  after  reaching  an  arm  beneath  the  Setor-no-KaraJiashi, 
poiuB  its  waters  into  the  Seta-gawa  (which  farther  down  is 
called  the  Uji-gawa,  and  later  the  Yodo^awa).  In  addition  to 
this  outlet  are  the  twin  canals  cut  through  the  ridge  that  hold 
the  waters.back  from  Kyoto.  The  most  important  of  the  shore 
towns  is  Otsu,  capital  of  Omi  Province  and  Shiga  Prefecture, 
with  40,000   inhabs.    Hikone  with  its  white  castle  on  a  hill 
overlooking  the  water  stands  farther  to  the  N.E.  and  is  men- 
tioned at  p.  399.   Beyond  it  is  Nagahama,  on  the  E.  shore, 
noted  for  its  exports  of  the  fine  white  silk  crape  called  Hama- 
chirimen  (made  in  the  rural  districts  of  Sakata).  At  the  village 
of  Ze-ze,  Kobori  Masakuza  erected  a  furnace  in  1640  and  began 
the  manufacture  of  the  well-known  Ze-ze-yaki,  one  of  the 
most  popular  of  the  wares  of  Omi  Province.   From  Shigaraki, 
near  the  lake  shore,  clay  for  the  making  of  faience  is  shipped 
to  many  parts  of  the  Empire.     A  well-known  ware  called 
Seta-yafci  is  made  at  Seta.    Chikuhu-shima,  an  island  not  far 
from  Nagahama,  has  a  temple  30th  in  the  list  of  places  sacred 
to  Kwannon,  and  is  a  breeding-place  for  cormorants  and  other 
fowl.    Small  coasting-boata  alai\.  a\.  iiecxvi^wt  Intervals  from 
Otsu  (and  Seta)  and  make  \.\ie  cVccmX.  oi  \Xv^\?kJ«.^\^\ft\r^m^^t 
the  chief  towns.  ,  , ..   , 

X-AKB  Biwa  is  renowned  lot  \Ubea.xiXAlv^^  ^^^xi^rj,'SR>KJ»i.^\& 


Daigo-ji  Temple.  KYOTO  B7.  RotOe.    607 

classic  shores,  rich  in  history  and  legend,  form  the  themes  of 
majiy  writers.  The  famous  Eight  Views  (Omi  Hakkei,  in 
imitation  of  those  at  Sia(hSiang)  are:  The  Evening  Snow  on 
Hira-yama;  The  Autumn  Moon  seen  from  Ishi-yama;  A 
Bright  Sky  with  a  Breeze  at  Awazu;  The  Sunset  Glow  at 
Seta;  The  fevening  Bell  at  Miidera;  Rain  by  Night  at  Kara- 
saki;  The  Boats  Sailing  back  from  Yabase;  and  The  Wild 
Geese  alighting  at  Katata.  Of  greater  practical  utility  are  the 
fish,  valued  at  2  million  yen,  that  are  taken  each  vear  from  its 
waters.  Crude,  arrow-shaped  traps  made  of  bamboo  and 
reeds  are  used  in  the  shallows  along  the  shore.  Salmon-trout, 
eels,  and  the  large  gengoro-Juna,  a  species  of  carp  with  a  na- 
tional reputation  for  size  and  flavor,  are  caught  in  quantities. 
The  fish  called  Higai  (for  which  the  Japanese  have  no  name, 
and  the  Chinese  ideograph  for  which  means  both  'emperor' 
and  'fish')  are  found  nowhere  else.  —  The  historic  town  of 
Ishi-yama  (E,  PL  D,  3),  with  a  faded  temple  sacred  to 
Kwannon,  is  not  far  from  the  Seta  Bridge^  and  is  of  but  little 
interest.  The  room  where  the  Oenji  Monogatari  is  thought  to 
have  been  composed  is  still  shown  to  visitors.  The  maple 
display  is  no  finer  than  that  of  other  places  near  Kyoto. 

*  Daigo-ji,  or  the  Samhd-dn  (lit.,  *The  three  precious  things, 
or  Buddhist  triad:  Buddhism,  Buddhist  rites,  and  the  priest- 
hood), a  monastery  (of  the  Shingon  sect)  about  4  M.  S.E.  of 
Inari  (E,  PL  C,  3),  may  be  reached  by  train  from  the  Kyoto 
to  the  Yamanashi  Station,  thence  1  M.  on  foot  to  Daigo^i 
village  (whence  the  temple  takes  its  name);  or  by  following 
the  woods-road  (good  walking,  in  about  1}  hrs.)  leading 
behind  the  Miyako  Hotel,  One  forenoon  is  ample  for  the  trip, 
which  in  the  spring  or  fall  is  one  of  the  most  delightful  in  the 
environs  of  the  old  capital.  On  alighting  at  Yamashina 
Station  follow  (right)  the  broad  highway  across  the  lowlands 
to  the  village,  which  is  traversedf  its  entire  length.  High 
bamboo  groves  flank  the  excellent  pike  beyond  to  the  lovely 
hill-encircled  valley  in  which  the  temple  stands.  The  white 
wall  with  its  five  Imperial  stripes  borders  the  road  at  the  left, 
and  from  it  a  broad  and  well-swept  avenue  leads  up  to  the 
weather-beaten  gate  at  the  far  end.  The  two  great  unwashed 
Dewa  kings  in  the  loggias  are  grimy  with  the  dirt  of  centuries; 
the  old  belfry,  the  deserted  pagoda,  and  the  other  structures 
standing  neglected  beneath  the  lofty  trees  are  sad  and  silent 
reminders  of  vanished  glory.  Hideyoshi^s  sometime  famous 
tea  pavilion  stands  far  up  the  hill  beyond  the  main  gate,  but 
access  to  it  is  barred  by  a  fence  across  the  path;  the  main 
temple  with  its  oflSce  is  behind  the  walled  incloauife  tkv^^«^ 
of  the  avenue. 
Daigo-ji  was  founded  in  902  by  the  bonze  Shobo  ^Uigeu- 
Z^Mt),  The  original  Btmcturea,  having  been  paTt\v  deaX^Torj^ 
dunngtbe  Ontn  war,  irere rebuilt  by  roj/otomi  Hide-yosHivo.  >i^^^ 


508    RouUnr.  KYOTO  Daigo-ji  TempU 

16th  cent.,  from  which  period  the  inner  garden  dates.  Some 
of  the  roughly  hewn  beams  of  the  primitive  building  were 
preserved  and  used  in  the  present  one,  and  because  oi  these 
and  of  certain  ancient  structural  features  (the  low-railed  bal- 
cony around  the  main  edifice,  the  style  of  the  priests*  apart- 
ments, and  so  on)  it  is  regarded  as  the  best  specimen  extant  of 
the  fine  old  Buddhist  fanes  of  early  times.  At  the  zenith  of  its 
power  and  fame  its  magnificent  art  treasures,  some  of  which 
now  repose  in  the  Kyoto  and  Tokyo  Museums,  were  richer 
than  those  of  any  of  the  K3r5to  temples.  Those  which  remain 
are  worth  inspection,  and  if  the  traveler  will  write  ahead  so 
that  the  priests  may  have  them  read^  for  displa3dng,  he  will 
save  time  and  be  well  paid  for  the  pilgrimage  hither.  Small 
fee  customary.  The  pnests  are  very  proud  of  the  temple  and 
its  Uneage.  From  the  time  that  Dosei  and  Seiun,  two  sons  of 
the  Emperor  Kameyama  (1260-74)  became  its  chief  bonzes, 
the  heads  of  the  institution  (one  of  the  13  in  the  Empire  hon- 
ored with  the  title  of  momeki)  have  been  princes.  —  The 
situation  of  the  group  of  buildings,  in  the  midst  of  a  stately 
and  impressively  beautiful  old  park  on  the  lower  skirt  of  a 
range  of  noble  hills,  is  admirable.  The  traveler  who  visits  the 
spot  in  spring  when  the  patriarchal  cherry  trees  display  their 
wealth  of  blooms,  or  in  Nov.  when  the  gorgeous  maples  are 
crimson  with  rage  at  the  defiling  touch  of  winter,  will  be 
entranced  by  the  beauty  of  the  scene.  The  great  Hideyoshi 
used  to  grow  rapturous  and  sentimental  over  the  spectacle  of 
the  century-old  sakuras  blooming  as  exquisitely  as  they  did 
when  in  their  teens,  and  the  native  poets  delight  to  picture 
him  leaning  against  the  classically  correct  balustrade  over- 
looking the  fine  fish-pond,  and  striving  to  combine  poetry 
with  statemanship  while  viewing  the  crescent  moon  above  and 
the  floral  wonder  below. 

So  careful  are  the  priests  to  prevent  further  breaches  being 
made  in  their  remaining  treasures,  that  the  acolyte  who  con- 
ducts the  traveler  about  is  usually  dogged  by  one  or  more 
spying  bonzes.    As  one  traverses  the  *  nightingale'  floors  of 
the  outer  corridor  one  geti3  beguiling  views  of  the  adorable 
little  garden  backed  by  lofty  trees.  But  for  the  fact  that  the 
artist  who  laid  it  out  transgressed  the  classical  rule  relating  to 
the  necessity  of  having  the  various  bridges  of  different  form, 
it  would  be  considered  the  most  perfect  of  its  kind  in  the 
Kyoto  neighborhood.  —  The  screens  in  the  first  suite,  show- 
ing landscapes  and  other  views,  are  by  Ishida   Yutei;  those 
which  follow,  by  Kano  SanrakUf  differ  but  little  from  the 
conventional  style  adopted  by  him.    The  curious  old  wood 
screen  and  the  ancient  bronze  beW  a.moug  the  relics  in  the 
Adjacent  rooms  are  of  Korean  on^va.  «.\i^\i^wi^^\a  Ric2e- 

fosAi,    The  palanquin  was  used  by  o\i^  oil  ^^  ^^^  ^^^\a. 
2»e  excellent  old  folding  scteenB,  oina.m^n\.^^^\>3siPQMX«w«^^ 


Hnehunan  Shrim.  KYOTO  S7.  Rouie,    509 

imperidlu  crests  on  a  gold  ground,  are  by  Ikoma  Tqju;  the 
decorated  cedar  doors  (one  with  a  dupUcate  of  the  Wet  Heron 
of  the  Nijo  Palace)  are  from  Hideyoshi^s  Momo-yama  Pcdace, 
The  fusuma  in  an  adjoimng  room,  showmg  huge  polychro- 
matic peacocks  with  tails  so  wide  that  they  spread  to  the  sur- 
rounding panels,  are  by  Kano  Sanraku;  those  displaying 
Chinese  figures  are  by  Ko-Hogen.  Both  YtUei  and  Sanrc^ 
are  represented  by  some  wan  and  faded  work  of  uneven 
quality  in  the  next  suite,  where  there  is  a  very  striking  old- 
gold  folding  screen  (by  Kand  Eitoku  working  in  one  of  his 
best  moods)  with  flights  of  jet-black  crows  across  it  —  coun- 
terparts of  the  glossy  rogues  who  caw  so  loudly  in  the  tall 
cryptomerias  of  the  outer  park.  The  maple  screens  are  by 
Yamaguchi  Seki,  better  examples  of  whose  work  are  the 
folding  screens  showing  a  Torn  cock  and  hen  with  long  tails, 
and  some  fallow  deer.  From  this  suite  one  looks  out  upon 
another  small  garden,  with  a  shallow  pond  that  reaches  under 
one  of  the  buildings,  and  imparts  a  pretty  effect.  An  old  biwa 
and  some  minor  rdics  are  shown  to  the  visitor  before  he  passes 
on  to  the  hondeUf  which  contains  among  other  things  a  fine 
gilded  image  of  Miroku-boaaisu  (to  whom  the  temple  is  dedi- 
cated) ascribed  to  the  versatile  Unkei,  The  seated  wood 
figure  at  the  right  is  Kobo-Daishi;  that  at  the  left  ShobOy 
founder  of  the  institution.  Both  are  among  the  best  examples 
extant  of  the  almost  faultless  work  of  Tankei  —  the  talented 
son  of  Unkei,  In  the  Zenid-krvan  (religious  meditation  room) 
there  is  a  very  curious  black-  and  gold-lacquered  reliquary 
shaped  like  an  old-fashioned  cupboard,  containing  an  image 
of  Jizd.  The  folding  screens  are  adorned  with  the  Ju-ni-ten  — 
Indian  gods  of  bizarre  composition  and  coloring. 

The  *Yawata  Hachiman  Shrine  (called  also  Iwashi  mizu 
Hachiman;  and  Hachiman-gu) ;  on  the  low  (300  ft.)  summit  of 
Otoko'yama  (E,  PL  B,  4),  at  the  Yawata  Station  of  the  KySto- 
Osaka  electric  car  line  (30  min.  S.W.  of  Kyoto;  fare,  28  sen 
round  trip),  is  regarded  as  one  of  the  most  perfect  architec- 
tural expressions  of  a  Rydbu-Shintd  shrine  in  the  Empire,  and 
is  dedicated  to  the  Emperor  Ojin  (God  of  War),  the  tutelar 
deity  of  Kyoto.  It  is  known  locally  for  its  beautiful  and  com- 
manding situation  and  for  a  gutter  of  pure  yellow  gold  (kin  no 
toyu)  which  extends  across  it.   If  possible  one  should  plan  to 
visit  it  early  in  Nov.,  when  the  maples  are  in  their  prime,  as 
these  add  greatly  to  the  peculiar  beauty  of  the  splendid  pano- 
rama visible  roundabout.   Popular  festivals  are  held  (usually 
at  midnight)  from  Jan.  15  to  20,  and  on  Sept.  15,  at  which 
times  devout  pilgrims  climb  the  winding  road  wp  iVift  ^\fc«^ 
hill,  the  many  lighted  lanterns  and  torches  matkm^  a.  cwrvwsa 
apectacle  as  thev glimmer  in  the  darkness.   \1^  ii\a.y  \i^  TCvfit^'S 
a  coincidence  that  the  untutored  Indians  iieax  Amecawfcca, 
Mexico,  have  from  time  immemorial  practiced  t\ie  s^m^  ^^^^sr 


510    RouU  27.  KYOTO  Haehinwn  Shrvm. 

torn  at  the  Sacro  Monte;  consult  Terry- s  Mexico,  p.  462.]  — 
From  the  several  stations  near  the  Kanu^gawa  the  tram-car 
runs  out  through  a  district  not  distinguished  for  deanlinees. 
to  the  tawciry  outskirts,  where  the  Osaka  Canal  is  crossea 
and  recrossed.  Between  the  Inari  and  Yodo  Stations  a  wide 
stretch  of  half-submerged  marsh  is  traversed  to  the  mouth  of 
the  KeAsurorgavxi,  opposite  which  is  the  ruin  of  the  ancient 
Yodo  Cattle  —  a  one-dme  Tokugawa  stronghold.  Many  pear 
orchards  dot  the  landscape.  Yawala  stands  beyond  the  long 
steel  bridge  near  where  the  Uji-gawa  and  ih&KizurgavxL  merge 
their  wat^  and  become  the  Yodo-gawa. 

TheShofu-kerit  a  semi-foreign  hotel,  faces  the  station;  round- 
ing it  one  sees  just  ahead  a  colossal  granite  toriij  the  lowermost 
outpost  of  the  shrine.  The  serpentine  lotus-pond  is  lovely  in 
Aug.  when  it  flames  with  variegated  flowers.  The  main  road 
lays  its  broad  length  upward  a^  around  the  hill,  over  hun- 
dreds of  clean  stone  steps  and  through  charming  stretches 
overshadowed  by  lofty  trees.  The  views  out  over  the  flat 
country  are  beguiling.  A  steady  20  min.  climb  brin^  one  to 
the  lower  end  of  a  long  flagged  lateral  walk  which  terminates  at 
the  shrine.  The  old  machine-gun  here  behind  its  shield  is  a 
relic  of  the  Japan-Russia  War.  Lines  of  magnificent  cryptome- 
rias  and  camj^or  trees  with  moss-grown,  lichen-coverea  stone 
lanterns  beneath  them,  mark  the  approach,  along  which  are 
many  tiny  shops  where  colored  earthenware  pigeons,  and  small 
bows  and  arrows  (the  latter  made  from  a  special  bamboo 
grown  in  the  neighborhood,  and  delicately  feathered),  are  sold 
to  pilgrims  as  souvenirs.  Just  within  the  gate,  at  the  right,  is 
a  bizarre  bronze  horse  half  covered  with  a  bronze  bmnket 
stamped  with  a  gilded  crest,  and  tied  to  a  very  realistic  bam- 
boo. The  main  edifice,  which  dates  from  the  16th  cent,  and  is 
built  after  the  style  of  shrines  of  the  Fujiwara  epoch,  is  strik- 
ingly picturesque,  with  a  weather-beaten  roof  that  is  half  tile, 
hjuf  thatch;  and  a  porch  under  the  eaves  of  which  are  many 
faded  wood-carvings.  The  imperial  kiku  crest  so  much  in 
evidence  denotes  royal  patronage.  Hundreds  of  fluttering, 
preening  pigeons  are  fed  m  the  courtyard  because  pigeons  are 
supposed  to  have  fed  the  young  Hachiman  when  he  was  neg- 
lected by  his  warlike  mother.  Flowers  of  different  colors  are 
seen  to  have  been  grafted  on  the  big  sazankwa  bush  at  the 
right  of  the  entrance. 

The  temple  proper  stands  on  a  wide  plinth  supported  by  a 

massive  stone  wall  whose  outer  edge  is  surmounted  by  a 

vermilion  colonnade  flanked  on  the  inner  side  by  a  partly  open 

square.    The  maze  of  weather-stained,  vari-tinted  sciuptures 

proclaim  Buddhist  associations.  The  famous  golden  gutter, 

about  3  ft.  only  of  which  \b  exposed,  x^\>o^^  m>3Kffli «.  ^tt  of 

protective  shell:  according  to  tue  px\e.«,\s'\\.\^'^  V^.^^^'^va.. 

thick,  and  78  ft.  long.  —  At  tkie  leax  ol  Wie^  vjam^xoi^.wAiiA. 


Mofuuteries.        KYOTO  TO  KOYA-SAN      $8.  RUl    611 

for  its  lofty  Gr3rptomerias  and  camphor  laurels,  is  an  andent 
storeroom  (kura)  that  resembles  Daniel  Boone's  cabin.  —  By 
leaving  the  inclosure  through  the  gate  at  the  right  of  the  shrine, 
one  descends  over  a  zigzag  pam  beautifully  embowered  in 
maple  trees.  From  the  terraces  one  gets  enchanting  views  of 
the  Yodo-gawa  as  it  meanders  across  the  wide  Osaka  plain 
below  —  flaming  with_yellow  rape,  or  green  with  a  gauzv 
mantle  of  young  rice.  Osaka  is  visible  at  the  far  S.  The  path 
strikes  into  the  main  one  at  the  2d  torii.  The  trail  at  the  left 
goes  to  a  pretty  waterfall.  Korv-en.  a  park  (chrysanthemum 
shows)  much  frequented  by  Osaka  folks,  is  a  20  min.  ride  on 
the  tramway. 

28.  From  Kydto  to  the  Koya-san  Monasteries. 

*Koya-san  (or  Takano'yama)y  a  mountain  (2800  ft.)  in  the 
N.E.  part  {Wakayama  Prefecture),  of  Kii  Province,  in  the 
basin  of  the  Yoshino^awa  near  the  Yamato  line;  the  loftiest 
eminence  of  a  bulky  range  that  runs  E.  and  W.  and  holds  in 
its  saucer-shaped  summit  (24  sq.  M.)  the  famous  old  monastic 
town  of  Koya  (comp.  the  accompanying  plan),  should  be  visited 
if  time  permits,  since  a  journey  to  it  forms  one  of  the  most 
delightful  of  all  the  excursions  off  the  beaten  track  of  travel  in 
Japan.  Beside  forming  a  fine  walking-trip  it  gives  the  stranger 
a  glimpse  of  rural  life  ne  would  not  get  elsewhere,  as  well  as  of 
one  of  the  quaijitest  ecclesiastical  communities  in  the  Empire. 

The  sacred  mountain  is  said  to  derive  its  name  from  the  Umbrella  Fir 
known  as  the  Koya-maki,  and  as  the  Podoearpus  of  Kdya  (Scicuiopitya 
verticillaia,  Thunberg),  a  fine  and  lofty  tree  (oftentimes  5CH65  ft.)  with  a 

gay  trunk  (3  ft.  or  more  in  circumference)  and  cones  like  those  of  a  pine  tree, 
ere,  in  its  native  habitat,  it  occurs  sparsely  and  is  carefully  cultivated.  — ' 
The  monastic  settlement  owes  its  origin  to  the  famous  Kukai  (h.  790;  d. 
840  —  better  known  by  the  posthumous  name  of  Kobo-Daiahi),  who  entered 
a  Buddhist  temple  when  quite  young  and  at  19  became  a  priest.  In  China 
he  studied  under  the  abbot  Huikwo,  who  taught  him  many  of  the  finer 
precepts  of  Buddhism  and  who  commissioned  him  to  take  back  to  Japan 
the  mystic  formula  of  the  Shingon-ahu  (p.  cc).  On  his  return  he  engaged 
in  a  discussion  organized  by  the  Emperor  between  the  most  learned  bonzes, 
and  surpassed  them  all  in  eloquence  and  scientific  knowledge.  Soon  there- 
after he  began  to  preach  the  doctrines  of  the  Shingon  sect,  and  after  serving 
as  abbot  of  the  Tdji  at  KvSto,  he  repaired  to  Koya-aan  and  founded  the 
Kongo-buji  which  in  time  became  the  largest  monastery  in  Japan.  He  in- 
vented the  alphabet  mentioned  at  p.  cxxvi,  and  is  said  to  have  possesed 
almost  miraculous  artistic  ability.  Few  if  any  of  his^  works  have  survived, 
notwithstanding  the  hundreds  of  sculptures  and  paintings  attributed  to  him. 
He  lived  a  life  of  such  exemplary  sanctity  that  the  credulous  refuse  to 
believe  him  dead  and  are  persuaded  that  he  is  awaiting,  in  a  lethargic  re- 
pose, the  coming  of  Miroku,  the  Buddhist  Messiah. 

The  summit  of  the  mountain  is  a  magnificently  wooded, 
irregular   plateau   about  2  M.  lon^,  surrounded   by  forest 
scarps  which  terminate  in  eight  points  supposed  by  devovi^ 
Buddhists  to  represent  the  8  petals  of  the  Xotxia  ^JrwuiKv^b 
renge).^  Nestling  in  this  high  and  sequestered  cuapAAsX^^'^sii 

■»  la  this  somewhat  oonfumng  sense  hachiyd  mfioiifiea  a  coat  ol  ggroAcwWP^ 
poaed  of  8  lotua  leaves;  and  rmge  (a  contraction  oi  ChirirenQC  —  a  V>T«^ 


512    Rte.  28,      KYOTO  TO  EOYA-SAN        MoncutoriM. 

far  from  the  'madding  crowd'  and  the  complexities  of  modem 
life,  is  one  of  the  most  ancient  religious  foundations  in  Japan; 
a  strange  aggregation  of  celibate  monks  forming  the  lees  of  a 
city  (a  sort  of  Japanese  Moimt  Athos)  which  in  its  prime  is 
said  to  have  contained  from  2000  to  9900  glittering  temples 
and  90,000  souls.  During  the  turbulent  Middle  Ages  of  Jap- 
anese history  it  had  its  own  soldiers  who  more  than  once  swept 
down  the  mt.  side  like  an  avalanche  and  carried  destruction 
and  death  to  its  over-arrogant  foes.  For  years  it  was  a  place 
of  exile  for  political  prisoners  of  rank,  and  more  than  one 
powerful  but  defeated  warrior  has  been  immured  here  for  life 
in  one  of  the  many  monasteries.  For  centuries  women  were 
not  allowed  to  come  within  shouting  distance  of  its  hallowed 
precincts  and  were  forced  to  turn  back  at  a  point  near  the 
summit. 

To  the  Ignorant,  Koya-aan  is  a  sort  of  miracle-working  place 
and  by  such  it  is  endowed  with  a  sanctity  perhaps  more  pro- 
found than  any  other  Buddhist  community  in  the  Empire. 
Thousands  of  pilgrims  of  both  sexes  make  the  ascent  of  the  mt. 
each  year,  and  the  present  town,  which  consists  entirely  of 
temples  (about  30  in  all,  with  250  priests  and  as  many  aco- 
l3rtes),  monasteries,  monkish-hostelries,  and  shops  which  cater 
to  their  wants,  subsist  upon  the  fruits  of  these  pilgrimages  — 
which  the  entire  community  (pop.  about  2000)  stimulate  by 
every  means  in  their  power.  Many  of  the  shops  are  dedicated 
to  the  sale  of  objects  associated  with  the  worsliip  of  Buddha 
—  rosaries,  images  of  saints,  and  a  host  of  sanctified  things 
similar  to  those  sold  in  Roman  Catholic  places  of  pilgrimage 
in  Europe.  The  priests  sell  indulgences  (O-fuda)  against  sick- 
ness, the  devil,  the  smallpox,  and  other  things,  and  make  not  a 
little  money  by  the  sale  of  sand  (called  dosha)  from  a  sacred 
mt.  (Muroosan)  in  Yamato,  [After  being  consecrated  by  the 
priests  it  is  supposed  to  have  the  power  of  softening  the  rigid 
joints  of  a  corpse  when  sprinkled  over  it,  so  that  the  bodv  can 
be  easily  laid  in  the  coffin.]  Also  from  paper  shrouds  (Kio^ 
katohira)  painted  all  over  with  Sanskrit  (Jap.  Banji)  char- 
acters. 

Of  the  several  routes  to  Koya-aan,  the  easiest,  most  popular,  and  the  one 
affording  the  best  views,  is  by  rail  from  KySto  (vi&  Nara)  to  Koyaguchi 
Station,  thence  by  jinriki  or  on  foot  to  Shide,  a  small  hamlet  at  the  bottom 
of  the  actual  ascent,  —  whence  one  must  either  foot  it  or  be  carried  to  the 
summit  in  a  kago,  as  wheeled  vehicles  are  impracticable.  The  train  custom- 
arily leaves  Kyoto  shortly  before  8  a.m.  and  reaches  Nara  under  2  hrs.  The 
only  advantage  in  starting  from  Nara  is  that  one  can  leave  the  hotel  there  at 
about  9  A.M.,  whereas  at  Kyoto  breakfast  must  be  ordered  for  6  a.m.  and  a 

lain  spoon  made  in  the  shape  of  a  lotus  leaf) ,  the  lotus  itself.  The  base  of 
the  lotuB  flower  on  which  Buddhist  deitiea  ate  xft^jTeaented  as  sitting  or  stand- 
iog,  is  called  Rendai.   The  8  peta\a  ate  «ym\io\a  ol  ^w^^-ssx.  ^Vdloaophy: 
vtrben  closed  they  are  likened  to  tVie  uiitaniL>cvt  xumA  \>^^\.  V\v«^%  x««j^^ 
the  Bunligbt  of  knowledge  wWcYi  ftooda  tJ;i«*m  viYxeu  xXve  «ko^«t  ovjKoa.  VCwniv 
p.  dxxxix.) 


Practical  Notes.    KYOTO  TO  KOYA-SAN      S8.  Rie.    613 

start  made  for  the  station  not  later  than  7.  The  rly.  fare  from  Kyoto  to 
Koyaguchi  is  ¥2.83,  1st  ol.;  ¥1.68,  2d;  time  about  5  hrs.  CSars  must  some- 
times be  changed  in  the  Nora  Station  (other  side  of  platform)  and  at  Oji. 
The  rest-house  opposite  the  Kduapuchi  Station  is  in  the  Japanese  style;  the 
likisha  stand  is  at  the  left.  Shide  is  3i  M.  behind  the  town  (good  road,  easy 
walking),  but  as  there  is  a  slight  incline  the  jinriki-man  ususJly  insists  upon 
having  a  pushman  (necessary  in  bad  weaUier).  Albeit  the  charge  of  the 
former  is  34  8en,  the  municipal  regulations  (posted  Just  outside  the  station) 
stipulate  a  payment  of  1^  fare  to  the  pusher,  making  the  total  for  a  jinriki 
with  2  men  85  sen.  A  good  walker  can  compass  the  trip  easily  in  1  hr.,  and 
can  save  the  cost  of  the  additional  man  by  agreeing  to  walk  up  the  hills. 
If  a  kago  is  wanted  at  Shide  it  should  be  telephoned  for  from  Koyagtichi,  or 
bespoken  from  Kyoto  by  letter.  While  2  men  will  carry  a  slight  person 
(weighing  100  lbs.  or  thereabout),  from  3  to  4  are  needed  for  a  heavier  one. 
For  each  man  75  sen  (90  in  bad  weather)  with  a  small  additional  tip  (about 
20  sen  each)  on  arrival  at  the  top.  The  man  of  ordinary  size  will  find  the 
kagoa  bone-breaking  and  painfully  uncomfortable.  Only  hand-luggage  can 
be  carried  on  the  top;  for  other  luggage  a  coolie  (75  sen  a  load>fmust  be  em- 
ployed. By  leaving  Shide  at  2  p.m.  one  can  be  put  down  at  the  door  of  the  inn 
at  about  6.  The  men  rest  frequently;  good  walkers  can  make  the  trip  in  a  ^ 
hr.  less.  There  are  no  dizzy  climbs,  and  the  clear  trail  is  dotted  with  rest- 
houses  and  hamlets.  The  return  trip  should  be  varied  in  the  manner  de- 
scribed hereinafter.  A  companionabte  guide  (comp.  p.  400)  from  the  hotel 
is  d^irable,  not  only  to  help  the  traveler  cany  his  kit,  but  also  to  serve  as 
courier  and  interpreter  at  the  Kdya-san  temples.  The  season  and  the  wea- 
ther have  a  direct  bearing  upon  one's  enjoyment  of  the  trip;  on  rainy  days 
when  clouds  hang  low  over  the  mts.  the  splendid  views  are  obscured,  and 
the  road,  which  in  some  places  is  vile,  is  apt  to  be  slippery  and  deep  in  mud. 
This  makes  the  going  somewhat  weariscone,  particularly  in  the  narrow, 
steepish  defiles.  The  most  b^tutiful  season  is  perhaps  April  or  May;  then 
the  wild  and  broken  slopes  and  forest  Angles  seem  to  tremble  with  electric 
Joy  at  their  spring  awakening,  and  the  mt.  cherry  blossoms,  the  azaleas  and 
other  wild  flowers  give  the  world  an  inkling  of  what  the  summer  glory  is  to 
be.  The  majority  of  the  hundred  thousand  or  more  pilgrims  who  annually 
seek  the  holy  monastic  retreat  (and  who  earnestly  believe  that  a  pilgrimage 
hither  is  necessary  to  their  spiritual  salvation)  ^  go  at  this  time,  before  the 
rice  is  planted,  and  so  crowd  the  inns  that  lodgings  must  be  arranged  for  in 
advance.  In  the  full  blaze  of  summer  the  languorous  forest  is  exquisitely 
lovely,  all  color  and  brilliancy,  and  vocal  with  the  stiidulous  calling  of  a 
myriad  cicadas.  Stately  ferns  and  a  host  of  flowering  shrubs  decorate  the 
winding  courses  of  the  hurrying,  whimpering  streams;  the  rocky  gorges 
are  fragrant  with  the  perfume  of  coimtless  white  lilies  and  violets;  t}ie  little- 
trodden,  primeval  by-paths  are  the  haunts  of  manv  unhunted  wild  crea- 
tures, and  the  plashing  of  innumerable  waterfalls  and  cascades  ring  through 
the  ^ades.  But  the  June  rains  have  made  the  roads  heavy,  and  the  mt. 
torrents  bring  destruction  to  many  of  the  bridges.  In  the  autumn,  after  the 
crops  are  garnered,  and  white-dad  pilgrims  with  jingling  staffs  are  again  on 
the  move;  when  the  maples,  the  icho  trees,  the  vegetable  wax,  and  a  host 
of  other  turn-coat  picaroons  are  flushing  and  palmg  before  the  advance 
guards  of  winter,  the  forest  is  lovely  beyond  description;  but  it  is  apt  to  be 
cold  at  the  summit.  3now  often  falls  in  late  Nov.  (sometimes  3  ft.  deep  in 
Jan.-Feb.)  and  the  ponds  show  thin  ice  on  their  surfaces.  But  the  traveler 
misses  much  who  does  not  see  the  fine  old  temples  of  Koya-^an  on  a  gray 
winter  morning  beneath  their  thick  coating  of  hoar  frost  or  snow,  or  when 
they  loom  out  of  their  great  shadows  on  a  frosty  winter  night,  beneath  a  steel 
blue  sky  powdered  with  glittering  stars.  The  rapier-like  thrusts  of  Jack 
FVost  are  considerablv  to  the  point  at  this  elevation,  and  travelers  making 
a  winter  pilgrimage  should  bnin^  heavier  wraps  than  those  required  by  the 
temperature  at  Kyoto.  A  special  charm  of  the  early  fall  is  added  by  the 
trustfully  belated  azaleas,  late-blooming  chrysanthemums,  camellias,  aatAt%« 
and  sazavJcwas  that  one  often  sees  flowering  in  the  warm  pockeVa  ol  \}ti«\3^^&£a 
with  a  southern  exposure.  At  Hub  season  seotAoiiB  oi  t3[i«  xaX>.  ^^de^  ^&&i^ 
jjizik  with  thickly  banging,  very  puckery  wild  peraiminoiuij  v\n!\fc\sx>i2&fc  "'*'»*!" 
Jage  gardens  hosts  of  globular  yellow  oranges  pend  {roixi  Uifc  txeea  «ftd  W*"^ 
tnst  sharply  with  the  deep-red  berries  of  the  Nandina  domeelica.  Owrt»» 


614    me,  28.      KYOTO  TO  KOYA-SAN  /mw. 

Bectioiw  poseess  a  decided  Tsnrolean  charm,  and  the  great  elevations,  tiie 
magnificent  views,  and  the  deliciously  calm  and  pure  air  exhilarate  one. 

The  hurried  traveler  can  get  a  cursory  view  of  Koyorsan  with  a  hasty 
look  in  at  several  of  the  temples  and  the  Buddhist  necropolis  in  a  half-day, 
and  by  scrambling  down  to  the^ly.,  reach  Ky5to  before  midnight;  but  by 
so  doing  he  must  necessarily  omit  a  quiet  inspection  of  the  best  features  of 
the  fine  old  ecclesiological  relics  of  the  holy  ^lace,  deny  himself  a  close  ac- 
quaintance with  the  rich  treasures  stored  m  the  temple  godowns,  race 
through  the  wonderful  cemetery  (one  of  the  most  unique  in  the  world)  under 
its  lofty  vault  of  majestic  cryptomerias,  ChamcBcyparist  and  other  huge 
coniferous  trees  flanked  by  its  awe-inspiring  tombs,  and  miss  all  the  soul- 
stirring  views  obtainable  from  the  peaks  which  shut  in  the  place.  Most 
travelers  will  wish  to  remain  at  least  1  whole  day  and  2  nights;  many  enjoy- 
able days  can  be  spent  roaming  over  the  quaint  settlement,  attending  the 
temple  services  or  watching  the  zealous  and  enthusiastic  pilgrims  as  they 
hurry  from  one  temple  to  another  and  make  their  orisons  before  noted 
shrines  or  sacred  tombs.  Some  go  from  one  to  another  like  a  running  street- 
lamplighter, 'and  feel  that  they  have  not  done  their  duty  or  earned  their 
reward  of  merit  until  th^  have  prayed  before  every  sacred  place  on  the 
circuit  to  the  immortal  Kdbd-Daishi's  tomb. 

Whosoever  comes  to  inspect  the  chief  treasures  of  the  older  temples  must 
plan  carefully  in  advance,  as  the  same  difficulties  that  confront  one  else- 
where are  here  in  a  more  pronounced  form.  The  ecclesiastical  junk  exhibited 
before  the  casual  and  unknowing  visitor  does  not  include  the  older  or  finer 
relics,  to  see  which  one  must  obtain  a  special  permit  (through  one's  ambassa- 
dor, or  minister)  from  the  Imperial  Household  Department  (at  T5kyd), 
and  a  promise  that  advices  will  be  sent  direct  bespeaking  special  attention 
and  pnvUeges.  These  advices  go  to  the  abbot's  residence  at  the  Kongo- 
buji,  whence  instructions  are  sent  to  the  M%ei-d6,  a  squat,  ostensibly  incon- 

g sequential  littie  temple  which  travelers  generally  overlook,  and  in  whose 
odowns  some  of  the  finest  treasures  are  stored.  In  due  time  these  will  be 
rought  forth  and  properly  displayed  and  the  traveler  notified  at  his  inn. 
The  prevailing  dampness  (which  at  Koya-aan  is  much  like  that  at  Nikkd) 
so  injures  many  of  the  finer  and  more  delicate  paintings  on  mlk  or  paper 
that  it  is  with  extreme  reluctance  that  the  priests  consent  to  withdraw  them 
in  summer  from  their  moisture-proof  storehouses.  Sometimes  it  is  only  once 
in  years  that  the  priceless  old  kakemonos  are  unrolled,  as  new  creases  are  in- 
evitably made  in  them  and  the  finer  penciling  injured,  and  in  time  oblit- 
erated. Certain  of  the  old  masterpieces,  painted  many  centuries  ago,  are 
10  ft.  or  more  wide  by  201ong,  and  for  inspection  they  must  be  hung  against 
a  smooth  wall  or  spread  out  on  a  broad  floor;  in  the  latter  case, where  several 
are  grouped,  the  temple  must  be  closed  temporarily  to  parishioners,  while 
the  traveler  is  engaged  in  the  inspection.  Fees  though  not  obligatory  are  cus- 
tomary ;  in  special  cases  the  amount  rests  with  the  giver.  Ordinarily  25  or 
50  sen  is  enough  for  the  priest  who  conducts  one  through  one  of  the  temples, 
and  a  yen  is  an  evidence  of  generosity.  Whosoever  gives  more  imposes  a 
moral  burden  on  the  succeeding  visitor  with  a  modest  income.  The  average 
donation  of  pilgrims  to  shrines  visited  by  them  is  i  sen.  Not  over  4  or  5  of 
the  remaining  temples  (all  of  th.e  Shingon  sect  of  Buddhists)  and  their  relics 
are  worthy  of  notice.  These  all  lie  within  the  triangle  formed  by  the  great 
front  gate,  the  so-called  rear  gate,  and  the  settlement  end  of  the  cemetery 
avenue,  and  are  mere  shadows  of  their  ancient  fame  and  splendor.  The  di»- 
establishment  of  Buddhism  and  the  consequent  denationalisation  of  the 
temples,  coupled  with  the  disastrous  fires  which  have  swept  over  the  place, 
have  struck  blows  dX  KohO'Daishi' s  retreat  from  which  it  has  not  recovered. 
Many  prised  possessions  have  been  acquired  by  art-collectors  in  Japan  and 
abroad,  and  others  have  been  removed  to  the  T6ky6,  Kyoto,  or  Nara  Mu- 
seums. The  traveler  will  mayhap  wish  to  be  reminded  that  the  temples  close 
at  4  P.M.,  and  that  in  winter  particularly,  twilight  comes  soon  thereafter.  — 
It  is  worth  while  lingering  at  Koya-san  for  a  bright  day  on  which  to  make 
the  descent  to  the  rly.  The  letuTnioMte  u  laaTked.  by  finer  and  more  exten- 
sive views  than  that  from  Koyaovjchiy  kdA  "w\ios.oev«t  \vaa  xcAfiA  the  ascent 
over  this  road  should  by  all  means  cYxooBe\*\ie\aA,\,e.T  wa.^^  ^crHTsw«.TdL\sv\>. 

The  Inns  (p.  xxadv)  are  monastic  in  c\iatac\ftx\  ^^^  vtssv,  ^«t\.  Xkgn^ 
with  clean  rooms  and  no  female  atienAant*.  T^^  mo^^  ^a^'^^  ^»«.  ^>i«B^ 


Inns.  KYOTO  TO  KOYA-SAN     SS8.  Bfe.    516 

and  thoi:^h  obligins  and  soUcitouB  of  the  traveler's  welfare,  they  do  not 
relish  being  ordered  about  like  menials  in  a  public  hostelry.  Foreifi^ners 
bearing  special  letters  from  the  T5kyd  Gov't  authorities  are  sometimes 
lodged  in  spacious  and  quasi-luxurious  apartments  formerly  reserved  for 
ahdguna  and  other  exalted  personages;  certain  of  these  suites  overlook 
pretty  landscape  gardens  and  have  adjacent  bath-rooms  fitted  with  crude 
wooden  bath-tubs.  Of  material  interest  to  the  traveler  is  the  fact  that  there 
is  also  a  tiny  kitchen,  a  blessed  refuge  wherein,  if  he  is  making  a  prolonged 
stay,  he  may  cook  his  un-Christian  food  without  the  vegetarian  priests 
knowing  (or  caring)  that  such  a  sacrilege  is  being  committed!  Meals  are 
served  in  one's  apartment;  the  food  is  purely  vegetable,  and  after  the  second 
day  distressfully  unpalatable.  Fish,  flesh,  fowl,  butter,  cheese,  eggs,  milk 
bread,  coffee,  and  other  necessaries  of  life  are  absent,  and  are  replaced  by 
seaweed,  greens,  bamboo-shoots,  cabbage,  daikon  in  various  unappetizing 
forms,  and  other  garden-truck  which  one  eats  as  a  novelty  the  first  meal 
and  rejects  with  an  involuntary  tightening  of  the  throat  when  it  is  offered 
at  the  second  and  third.  In  addition  there  are  flabbjr  mushrooms  boiled  in 
very  thin  water  without  seasoning :  the  omnipresent  boiled  rice  without  sugar, 
milk,  or  salt;  a  bean-curd  (tofu)  lor  which  one  acquires  a  liking  only  after 
much  patient  effort;  a  yellow  substance  (known  as  yiiJKi)  made  of  the  skin  of 
bean-curd,  and  looldng  and  tasting  like  thin  sheet  rubber;  and  insipid  sugar- 
less tea.  Hot  soAre  can  be  had  when  called  for.  Usually  there  is  a  nimble- 
witted,  fleet-footed  lad  about  the  place  who  from  long  practice  in  foraging 
can  make  a  swift  sortie  on  the  town  shops  and  return  with  an  egg  or  a  pheas- 
ant or  something  that  will  keep  body  and  soul  together  during  the  sojourn 
in  this  pious  community.  The  traveler  should  bring  a  well-filled  lunch- 
basket  with  him  from  Kydto.  Bread  can  be  toasted  nicely  over  the  charcoal 
h^Mchi,  and  the  monastery  tea  can  be  replaced  by  a  better  brand.  Followers 
of  Epicurust  particularly  those  interested  in  vegetarianism,  who  are  struck 
by  the  bulk  and  heft  of  certain  of  the  oily-faced  priests,  may  wish  to  know 
that  they  do  not  extract  all  their  religious  fervor  from  'garden-sass,'  for 
when  absent  from  Kdt/o^an  they  are  allowed  to  vary  their  diet. 

There  are  no  fixed  prices  for  acconmiodations,  but  travelers  are  expected 
to  pay  (and^  tip)  as  much  as  they  would  in  any  first-class  inn.  The  money 
is  customarily  wrapped  in  white  paper  (fees  m  a  separate  package)  and 
handed  to  the  attendant  in  charge  just  before  leaving.  Among  the  best  inns 
are  the  Shojo  Shin-in  ('Pure-hearted  Temple'),  the  adjacent  Henjo  Ko-iut 
and  the  (4  M.)  Kona6-buj%.  Many  of  the  other  temples  have  a  small  num- 
ber of  rooms  which  they  mre  out  to  pilgrims.  Certain  of  the  monks  in  charge 
speak  a  little  clipped  English.  In  the  late  autumn  and  winter  the  halls  are 
woefully  chilly,  and  foot-covering  in  the  form  of  soft-soled  felt  slippers  is 
very  acceptable.  Kimonos  in  which  to  sleep  are  provided,  but  towels  and 
soap  should  be  taken  along.  Ask  if  the  house  contains  a  special  bath-tub 
made  after  foreign  designs.  As  one  is  usually  drenched  wth  perspiration  on 
reaching  the  siimmit,^  a  change  of  underclothing  is  needful.  Unless  one  has 
an  extra  pair  of  waUingnahoes  in  one's  kit  it  is  highly  advisable  not  to  turn 
wet  or  muddy  shoes  over  to  the  innkeeper  to  clean  or  dry,  as  they  arc  apt 
to  be  ruined  (comp.  p.  Izzvii).  Unleee  the  traveler's  guide  knows  the  settle- 
ment, time  can  be  saved  by  accepting  the  services  of  a  local  guide.  It  is 
customary  for  the  attendant  at  the  inn  to  call  in  some  shopkeeper  friend  who 
cheerfully  devotes  the  day  to  showing  the  stranger  the  sights,  free  of  charge, 
if  purchases  of  souvenirs  (two  or  three  yen's  worth  leaves  him  satisfied),  etc., 
be  made  at  his  shop.  Reputable  dealers  are  supposed  not  to  advance  the 
prices  for  the  occasion.  Many  attractive  little  mementoes  are  on  sale,  chief 
among  them  rosariee*(y«2u)  in  various  designs.  Those  most  in  demand  by 
devout  pilgrims  are  made  of  the  berries  of  the  pippul  tree  {Ficus  religiosa; 
Jap.  bodaiju)  or  the  sacred  ho  tree  of  India,  under  which  Sakya-tnuni,  the 
founder  of  Buddhism  is  said  to  have  become  '  enlightened',  and  which  legend 
declares  was  produced  at  the  moment  of  his  birth.  The  beads  of  the  rosaries 
are  called  juzudamot  which  is  also  the  name  for  rosaries  made  of  Job'artA«x^« 
and  for  the  seeds  themselves.    'Telling  the  rosary  '  is  Juzu  wo  IsumaQura. 

The  rly.  line  from  Kvdto  to  Nara  is  descnbed  a.\.  p.  ^>^« 
-Wwm  JVara  It  runs  southward  through  a  fair  co\m\.r5  doWft^ 
wiiA  rumouB  temples,  delunned  by  wooded  LiWa,  a.Ti^  ^evoNje^ 


516    Rte.  28.       EYOTO  TO  KOYA-SAN         KdyoQwHiL 

to  the  cultivation  of  pears.  3  M.  Koriyama,  and  7  M.  Hdry^i 
are  spoken  of  in  Rte.  34.  9  M.  Oji  is  the  junction  where  trains 
are  changed  for  Osaka  City.  Passengers  for  the  Koyor^an 
region  change  into  a  car  marked  Wakayamashi,  The  environ- 
ing country  is  productive  and  the  climate  mild;  vegetables  are 
often  transplanted  as  late  as  Dec.  and  come  to  fruition  before 
the  cold  and  snow  of  Feb.  13  M.  Shimoda.  From  16  M.  Takada 
a  branch  rly.  leads  to  (6  M.)  Sakurai.  We  pass  the  unimport- 
ant stations  of  ShinjOy  Goscj  Tstibosakaj  (24  M.)  Yoskinogitchi 
(starting-point  for  Yoahino)^  KitaiLchi,  Gojo^  and  FtUami.  The 
line  threads  a  tunnel  and  enters  the  valley  of  the  Kiigawa, 
34  M.  Suda.  37  M.  Hashimoto  (the  station  where  the  train 
is  boarded  for  the  return  trip).  40  M.  Koyaguchi  ('entrance 
ijoKoya^),  From  this  point  the  rly.  continues  on  past  several 
imimportant  stations  to  64  M.  Wakayama. 

At  K6YAGUCHI  (Inns:  Skinonome-kwan;  Katsuragi-kioan; 
¥2-3  a  day)  the  highroad  goes  down  to  the  left  of  the  station, 
forms  the  main  street  of  the«village,  trends  round  to  the  right, 
and  leads  out  across  a  low  flat  region  to  the  wide,  sandy  bed 
of  the  strikingly  transparent  Kino^awa  —  which  higher  up  is 
called  the  Yoshino^awa,  When  the  bridge  is  washed  away, 
which  often  happens  at  flood  tide,  a  flat-bottomed  boat  carries 
travelers  across  (1  sen)  to  the  opposite  village  of  Kiusoyama,  a 
sort  of  shipping-point  for  the  timber  brought  down  on  several 
narrow  streams  from  the  near-by  mts.  —  Traversing  the  main 
street  then  turning  to  the  right  and  following  the  Kanw-gawa 
up  through  its  winding  gorge,  one  soon  comes  to  a  big  steel 
flume  (left)  where  power  is  generated  and  transmitted  to 
Kishivxida.  Some  fine  old  cherry  trees  hang  over  the  river, 
and  when  they  flower  in  spring,  and  the  boatmen  pole  their 
rafts  beneath  them,  they  form  a  pretty  picture.  Groves  of  slim 
young  pines  clothe  some  of  the  hill-slopes,  while  others  show 
outcroppings  of  a  hard,  variegated  greenish  marble.  A  wood 
bridge  spans  the  river  near  the  top  of  the  gorge,  where  a  brawl- 
ing confluent  rushes  down  at  the  right;  crossing  this  one  follows 
the  well-kept  roadway  (maintained  by  a  tax  of  i  sen  levied  on 
every  one  who  crosses  the  bridge)  up  through  a  highly  pictur- 
esque section  where  the  sun-warmed  hillsides  are  dott^  with 
palmettoes,  cherries,  and  maples  (fine  autumn  tints),  and 
flecked  here  and  there  with  tiny  houses  charmingly  situated. 
The  twin  line  of  rails  on  the  opposite  side  of.  the  river  are  for 
logging-cars.  The  lower  part  of  Shide  village  sprawls  on  both 
sic&  of  the  gorge  and  the  river;  instead  of  crossing  the  bridge 
(right)  one  follows  (5  min.)  the  narrow,  winding  street  upward 
to  the  last  rest-house,  facing  it  on  the  left.  Kagos  are  in  wait- 
ing here  for  those  who  have  beapoVexi  \Xveai\  \fia  oacent  is  too 
Bteep  for  jinrikis.  Hence  to  tibe  Ko^a-sau  ^«.\ifc\a\^  ^V  >i5Qa 
local  cAo  [the  ri  in  this  regioii  coB.\«ima  ^^VmX^^^V^  a>L,  jsA 
ia  3i  M.  long],  and  thence  to  t\ie  Vm^*^^  mox^,Tj.sto^^\R.\A 
of  8  fJnglish  miles. 


KYOTO  TO  KOYA-SAN     28.  fife.    517 

The  steepish  ascent  begidii  over  a  well-trodden  road  beneath 
great  conifers  and  by  the  side  of  a  deep,  sflent  gorge  choked 
with  vegetation.  The  majestic  hinokis,  the  extr^rdinarily  tall 
columnarian  crvptomerias,  and  the  splendid  retinosporas 
(some  with  trunks  9  ft.  in  circumference),  rise  grandly  in  their 
search  for  blue  sky  and  free  air.  Farther  on  are  serrated  ranks 
of  beautiful  firs  {Abies  firma),  thick  groves  of  lissome  bamboos, 
paper  trees,  paJmettoes,  persimmons,  cedars,  and  a  host  of 
other  trees  rising  amidst  giant  ferns  and  a  tangle  of  dew- 
drenched,  semi-tropical  vegetation.  Against  the  deep-green 
background  of  the  forest  the  yama-zakura  in  spring,  and  the 
maples  in  autimin,  glow  and  vie  in  color  witn  the  lustrous 
green  leaves  and  the  rich  crimson  berries  of  the  narUen.  If  the 
traveler  happens  along  here  when  the  luxuriant  wild  wistiuia 
climbs  to  the  topmost  branches  of  the  loftiest  trees  and  there 
flaunts  its  ravi^ng  beauty  wantonly  in  the  face  of  the  sun, 
he  will  witness  a  floral  display  which  time  will  not  obliterate 
from  his  mind.  Except  in  midsummer,  when  the  m3rriad  rest- 
less cicadas  call  to  their  responsive  kin,  a  strange  silence  broods 
above  the  dense  and  sometunes  gloomy  forest;  the  only  sounds 
one  hears  are  the  occasional  ringing  strokes  of  a  woodman's  axe; 
the  tinkling  metal  rings  a-swing  from  some  pilgrim's  staff;  the 
muffled  hoof-beats  of  a  pack-horse  picking  his  way  carefully 
down  the  sloping  trail;  Uie  hoarse  cawing  of  distant  rooks  or 
the  sonorous  chant  of  a  wandering  priest.  The  wood-pigeon, 
whose  booming,  melodious  note  on^  loves  to  hear  in  the  Jap- 
anese forest,  seems  not  to  frequent  this  hallowed  precinct,  and 
there  is  a  noticeable  absence  of  birds  and  squirrels.  Wild  boars 
are  said  to  haunt  the  deep  fastnesses  of  the  region  hereabout, 
where  many  of  the  ^orgpsaremero  blind  rifts  —  wedge-shaped 
slashes  in  the  hills  with  no  upper  outlets.  One  is  often  reminded 
of  the  beautiful  woodland  stretches  around  Karlsbad,  and 
others  in  the  Black  Forest;  the  latter  particularly  comes  to  the 
mind  when  one  emerges  from  the  woods  to  round  some  gigantic 
shoulder  where  the  older  trees  have  been  felled  and  saplings 
have  been  planted  (by  the  Forestry  Bureau)  to  replace  them. 
From  the  rest-houses  perched  like  eagles'  nests  on  terraces 
cut  from  the  mt.  sides,  one  enjoys  extensive  and  magnificent 
panoramas. 

About  1  hr.  out  from  Shide  the  stiff  ascent  terminates  in  a 
broad  road  which  winds  in  and  out  and  up  and  down  over  a 
relativeljr  level  stretch,  with  such  superb  views  Oeft)  that  one 
feels  as  if  one  were  walking  across  the  roof  of  the  world.  Far 
below,  looping  gracefully  to  lower  levels,  is  descried  a  primitive 
log-road  made  of  young  trees  held  in  place  by  wood  «iV^^^> 
Heavily  laden  skids,  so  nicely  adjusted  that  t\ieinc\h.oTiS& ^>33\.* 
terbalanced  bv  the  pull  of  gravity  f  aredowly  gCQd«^^o"WCL\\i\s^ 

squads  of  Jumbermen  —for  the  region  hereabout  i»  %oV\.v«^^. 

eri^  And  tfie  cuUmg  down  and  replanting  ol  teeoB  ^BO«ft«X^»- 


^18  JUe.  S8.      £T<yEO'  TO  KOYAHBAN  JSom^o. 

ily  on.  Many  of  the  padk-aniiEXiB  one  meets  are  laden  with 
sawn  lumber  and  have  their  hiUds  held  low  bv  a  taut  mar- 
tingale —  eviilently  a  precaution  against  stumbling.  Squads 
td  straining  coolies  Jare  oiien  seen  coming  or  going  with  sup^es 
for  the  hi^perched  settlemoit.  As  the  road  ascends  one  g^ 
beguiling  views  of  the  Yoshiiruy'gawa  in  its  dbtant  bed. 

At  KAmita  Vhj/AOB  (hm:  Hantpw;;  1}  hrs.  from  ^lide), 
where  the  sapling-road  merges  into  a  De  CattmUe  S3n9tem  which 
carries  it  up  to  KSya  town,  the  road  bends  abruptiv  to  the 
right  and  wmds  through  the  long  single  street;  here  we  alter- 
nate way  to  (7i  M.)  aaakimoto  (whi<£  we  take  (m  Uie  return), 
branches  off  at  the  l^t.  Kdyaguahi  is  said  to-  be  5}  M.  bdow 
this  -point.  The  dark-4>rown  E<nglish  walnuts  (Jugkau  regia; 
Jap.  Ktirumi;  a  iiative  ^  India  and  the  Caucasus)  which  are 
gathered  in  the  vicinity  and  sold  in  the  tiny  village  shops  are 
almost  as  good  as  their  foreign  prototypes.  The  grade  now 
(dopes  downward  to  a  small  shrine  {ShMun^wa,  or  'four-inch 
rock')  with  a  big  black  slab  setting  forth  a  description  of  it. 
Here  the  roads  brandi  and  form  an  ellipse;  the  patii  alone 
the  lower  angle  was  used  before  the  up|>er  one  was  built,  and 
the  huge  footprint  (a  sort  of  worn  place)  in  the  rock  at  t^e  foot 
<A  the  wooden  shrine  is  said  to  nave  been  made  by  Kgbd- 
Daiaha's  feet  on  his  many  trips  up  and  down  the  mt.  It  is  one 
of  the  sanctified  places  and  is  greatly  reverenced  by  ihB  credu- 
lous. A  noisy  stream  rushes  down  the  gorge  at  the  right. 
Hi^er  up  it  is  spanned  by  the  locally  celebrated  OokurScu- 
baakiy  or  ^Bridge  of  the  Buddhist  Paradise'  (25  ft.  long,  8  ft. 
widQ,  with  10  bronze  giboshu).  Several  rest-houses  stand  on 
the  opposite  bank,  which  is  a  2  hrs.  walk  from  Shide.  Anciently, 
when  the  monks  of  Kdytisan  were  more  militant  and  powerful 
than  they  now  are,  the  district  beyond  this  bridge  lay  within 
the  safety-zone  surrounding  the  free  town  of  Kdya;  once 
beyond  the  bridge  criminals  or  political  offenders  were  out- 
side the  reach  of  the  law,  and  to  it  many  of  them  hastened  as 
did  the  early  Spaniards  who  sou^t  a  safe  asylum  in  Spanish 
cathedrals.  The  stone  image  of  Jizo  which  sits  hard  by  gives  the 
name,  Jizd-zakay  to  the  execrable  stretch  of  road  which  zigzags 
upward  just  beyond. 

It  is  also  called  Iroha-ShijC^-ha-zaka,  or  the  *Road  of  the  Forty-eiffht 
ZigiafB*  (notwithntaading  there  are  but  33  winding  stretehes),  measuring 
8  ehd  in  alL  The  Jroha  (a  pontraotioa  of  JrohortUa) ,  or.  l^o-ha,  the  first  three 
of  the  47  syllabic'  sounds  which  form  the  elements  of  the  Kana  alphabet, 
and  wbleh  correspond  to  the  A  B  C  of  the  English  alf^abet,  was  invented 
(oomp.  p.  oxzvi)  by  KSb^-DoMii,  —  wherefore  its  particular  application 
here. 

A  fatiguing  dimb  of  25  min.  lands  one  on  the  crest  of  the 
stiff  and  rocl^  inc^e  and  at  &  nft^^o;^^  shrine  (dedicated  to 
Fud6)  with  a  redrheaded,  ^«cy  i!na%<&  ol  \}cQ&^^TvsaV3  «&RSE&sRfLto 

«Im<,  tiw«  dripping  mOx  iw>W?«evON«  wt^xa^iXsiv^w^Ska^ 


Guiding  Office,      KYOTO  TO  KOYA-SAN     B8,  Rte.    619 

span  ravines,  or  great  tredfuoots  that  simulate  steps.  The  hills 
show  the  scars  of  many  landslides,  and  not  a  few  of  the  huge 
trees  have  been  riven  oy  li^tning.  The  last  bit  of  climbing 
is  over  an  atrocious  road  (ankle-deep  in  yellow  mud  during  the 
rainy  season),  then  a  smooth  stretch  flanked  by  some  amaz- 
ingly tall  and  graceful  cryptomerias.  Ten  min.  of  swift  striding 
along  this  brmgs  one  to  a  plain  black  gate,  the  Fydd-zaka- 
gvxMy  or  'back  entrance'  to  the  temple  inclosure.  From  this 
point  it  is  4  hrs.  walk  from  Koyagvchi,  3  from  Shide,  1^  from 
Kamiya,  and  1  from  Gokurakvrbaahi,  The  time-stained  shrine 
(left)  just  inside  the  gate  is  the  Nyonin-do,  beyond  which, 
prior  to  1873,  women  were  not  allowed  to  go;  those  who 
reached  this  point  had  to  say  their  prayers  here  and  return. 
The  big  bronze  image  of  Jizd  (right)  dates  from  1745;  the 
upstanding  bronze  figure  of  Kwannon  (amid  the  trees  at  the 
left)  was  erected  in  1852.  The  building  at  the  turn  of  the  road 
ahead  is  the  Annai-^hd,  or  'Guiding  Office.' 

In  the  golden  age  of  K&ya'tan  every  Japanese  province  where  the  Shingon 
doctrines  were  taujght  was  repnaented  here  by  one  or  more  temples,  and  the 
people  from  any  given  province,  on  repairing  hither,  lodged  in,  or  worshiped 
at,  the  corresponding  fane.  Albeit  many  of  the  older  structures  have  per- 
ished, the  custom  still  exists,  and  every  visitor  is  asked  by  the  priestly  officer 
of  the  Annairshd  whence  he  eame  and  to  which  temple  he  wisnes  to  go.     If 


the  stranger  at  the  gate  be  a  foreigner,  and  comes,  perchance,  from  Kydto, 
with  no  definite  idea  as  to  where  he  will  lodge,  in  all  likelihood  he  will  be  di- 
rected to  the  8hiSj6  Shin-iiif  the  abbot  of  which  is  also  the  abbot  of  the  Tdji 
at  Kyoto.  An  acolyte  (small  fee  acceptable)  with  a  lantern  leads  the  way, 
and  a  25  min.  walk  thioui^  the  serpentine  streets  brings  one  to  the  gate. 

Two  large  and  strikingly  handsome  bronze  lanterns  and  a 
splendid  bronze  fountain  mark  the  entrance  to  the  Skojo 
Shin-in,  which  stands  at  the  left  side  of  the  road,  flanking  a 
high  hill  on  which  anciently  a  score  or  more  temples  stood,  but 
wUch  noW  is  spread  over  with  a  landscape  garden.  Its  situa- 
tion is  convenient  for  strangers,  in  that  the  town  and  its  tem- 
ples are  on  one  side,  and  the  great  cemetery  on  the  other. 
Before  retiring  the  traveler  should  express  his  wish  to  partici- 
pate in  the  impressive  matinal  service  held  in  one  of  the 
temple  halls.  At  5  a.m.  (yet  2  full  hrs.  before  daylight  in 
winter)  an  acolyte  awakens  him  and  conducts  him  along  some 
very  cold  and  draughty  passages  (an  overcoat  slipped  over 
the  sleeping-A^imono  is  useful)  to  the  Ehai-do  (Ancestral 
Tablet  Hall)  wherein  are  ranged  hundreds  of  mortuary  tablets 
of  Japan's  honored  dead  —  emperors,  s^ogrwns,  daimyosy 
samurai,  governors,  abbots,  and  so  on.  Lighted  tapers  stand 
before  many  of  ttie  enshrined  tablets  and  cast  a  weird,  flicker- 
ing light  over  the  darksome  room.  At  the^center,  before  a  low 
altar  loaded  wilii  ihcense-bumers  and  bronze  fitments,  and 
illuminated  by  tapers  set  in  massive  metal  candies^ivc^iL^,  ^\\&  «s^ 
old  ahhot,  sbaven-pated,  wrinkled,  and  tliougJitl\3\.  ^va  -sirAft 
ch^subJe  Goata  out  hMnd  him,  while  spread  to  \\ie  f\.'^\»  ^Q^- 
left,  like  tenuous  winfff,  are  lines  of  aombex-go^med  abCic\^5^*»^ 


520    Ek.  28.      EYOTO  TO  KOYA-^SAN      The  TempUi. 

Siting  on  their  feet  and  intoning  the  sonorous  cadences  of 
the  sacred  chant.  From  time  to  time  the  abbot  spreads  his 
nervous  sBsthetic  fingers  and  goes  through  the  pantomimic 
motions  of  the  BuddMst  ritual ;  anon  ringing  sweet-toned  bells, 
striking  a  tinkling  c^onbal,  joining  in  the  melodious  rhythm  of 
sound,  and  impressing  the  beholder  by  his  mysticism.  As  the 
stranger  from  some  distant  land  kneels  in  the  crepuscular  light 
of  i\m  vast  incense-fiUed  room  in  one  of  the  most  sacred 
temples  of  the  holiest  of  holy  places  in  Japan,  and,  under  the 
mesmeric  spell  of  his  surroundings,  hearkens  to  the  impassioned 
invocations  to  the  inscrutable  Buddha,  he  involuntanly  likens 
it  to  some  mysterious  central  station  or  power-house  where 
electrical  or  religious  sympathy  is  generated  and  flashed  in  a 
potent  current  to  a  m^ad  of  devotees  scattered  throughout 
the  Empire  sleeping  m  the  stygian  darkness  of  the  plains 
far  below! 

After  the  (1  hr.)  service  an  acolyte  takes  a  lamp  and  con- 
ducts the  visitor  to  an  adjoining  room  where  a  tablet  of  one  of 
the  ancestors  of  the  great  Mitsui  family  is  enshrined.  Thence 
to  another  wilii  an  altar  containing  a  superb  national  treasure 
in  the  shape  of  a  beautifully  sculptured  wood  image  of  Amida, 
now  blackened  by  time,  but  carved  by  the  masterly  hand  of 
Unkei  - —  who  likewise  carved  the  Shvkenno  flanking  it.  The 
ferocious-looking  Fiido  in  the  next  room  is  unjustifiably 
ascribed  to  Kobo-Daishi;  before  the  image  are  the  fagots  and 
a  fire-pot  to  bum  the  demons  which  Ftidd  extracts  from  human 
hearts,  and  the  cords  with  which  he  first  binds  them.  Special 
visitors  are  conducted  hence  to  the  abbot's  apartments  (which 
overlook  a  pretty  landscape  garden),  thence  to  the  O  hiroma, 
a  suite  with  numerous  kakemonos  and  fusurna  decprated  by 
Kand  Tsunenobu,  Conspicuous  among  these  is  a  colossal  pine 
tree  whose  great  branches  extend  over  several  of  the  panels. 
Equally  noteworthy  are  two  big  folding  screens  (by  the 
eccentric  Domo  no  matabei)  completely  covered  with  palaces 
and  houses  and  processions  and  figures,  all  representative  of 
one  of  the  early  Nara  epochs.  The  wide  kakemono  in  the  • 
tokonoma  is  ascnbed  to  Kand  Motonobu.  In  other  apartments 
are  pictures  of  Ainu. 

Of  the  K6YA-SAN  Temples  the  Kongo-buji  and  its  immediate 
dependencies  are  the  most  worth  seemg.  This  old  monasterjr 
and  inn  combined,  a  long,  low,  weather-beaten  but  still  hand- 
some structure,  with  gracefully  curved  roofs  and  some  once 
splendid  wood-carvings  of  tigers,  phoenixes,  and  what-not 
{ascribed  to  a  pupil  of  Hidari  Jingoro)  in  the  pierced  panels 
of  the  main  porch,  is  the  residue  of  the  most  ancient  temple  on 
the  mt   It  was  establislied  by  KSbo-BaxsKi  m  the  0th  cent. 
OD  land  given  him  for  the  purpose  by  ^Itve^^^^.  kRRsst^Ti% 
to  tradition  Kariba  Myojin,  tbe  SMuto  ^od  ^\^^f^^^>^- 
welcomed  KUkai  on  Hs  arrival,  and  ^Tom^^^e^  ^t^\««x.vsiv\^ 


The  Temples,       KYOTO  TO  KOYA-SAN     £8.  Rte.    521 

the  enterprise.  This  deity,  being  fond  of  the  chase,  had  a 
special  liking  for  dogs,  from  which  circumstance  these  animals 
were  the  oiSy  ones  ever  permitted  within  the  sacred  pre- 
cincts of  the  settlement.  For  many  years  the  monastery 
enjoyed  the  Imperial  patronage.  In  1595  the  unnatural 
Taiko  Hideyoshi  exiled  hither  his  adopted  son  Hidetsuga  and 
invited  him  to  perform  harakiri  —  which  he  did  in  one  of  the 
rooms  of  the  original  edifice  (see  below).  In  time  the  Kongo- 
buji  became  the  wealthiest  and  most  powerful  temple  in 
Japan,  but  the  great  fire  of  1843  destroyed  it  and  left  only  the 
main  gate  —  which  dates  from  the  16th  cent.  The  present 
structure,  the  headquarters  of  the  Shingon  sect  in  Japan,  is 
interesting  from  an  architectural  standpoint,  although  its 
charm  is  somewhat  marred  by  the  row  of  water-barrels  in 
frames,  which  straddle  the  ridge-pole  and  constitute  a  seg- 
ment of  the  fire  department.  The  penthouse  roof  of  the  porch 
is  quaint.  Arborists  will  be  interested  in  the  tall  Koya-maki 
trees  in  the  park-like  front  yard  —  evergreens  which  the  more 
vigorous  hinoki  and  cryptomerias  seem  to  crowd  out  of  their 
native  habitat. 

The  visitor  is  ushered  first  into  a  big  hall  where  there  are  a 
dozen  or  more  handsome  one-piece  cedar  doors  decorated 
with  hawks  and  pine  trees  by  Kano  Tansen  (18th  cent.). 
Adjoining  it  (left)  is  the  O  hiromay  a  spacious  suite  with  num- 
erous slidfiug  jumma  covered  with  pine  trees,  bamboos,  and 
life-size  cranes  on  an  old-gold  ground  —  the  work  (perhaps)  of 
Ko-Hogen  Motonobu.  The  shrine  in  this  room  is  dedicated  to 
Kobo-Daishi,  and  the  little  room  at  the  left  is  crowded  with 
ancestral  tablets  of  members  of  the  Imperial  family.  In  the 
Plum  Room  are  some  attractive  movable  screens  with  birds 
and  blossoming  plum  trees  by  Kano  Tanyu.  The  Willow  Room 
(yanagi-no-mc^y  the  decorations  in  which  are  ascribed  to 
Tanseny  stands  on  the  site  of  the  apartment  where  the  unfor^ 
tunate  Hidetsuga  disemboweled  himself  (see  above)  to  satisfy 
the  caprice  of  Hideyoshi  —  whose  wife  had  given  birth  to  a 
•  boy  that  succeeded  Hidetsuga  as  the  heir.  The  gold-splashed 
fusuma  with  flying  cranes  are  new.  The  curious  bronze  monu- 
ment in  the  next  room,  depicting  thedyinc  Buddha  surrounded 
by  his  mourning  friends,  was  a  gift  from  the  Tokugarjoa  shogun, 
letsunay  and  is  a  companion  piece  to  the  one  at  the  Miyoskin-ji, 
at  Kyoto.  The  recess  of  the  jddan  in  the  adjacent  apartment 
has  its  entire  back  wall  covered  by  a  noteworthy  old  Chinese 
painting  by  an  unknown  artist;  the  striking  kakemono  here 
pictures  the  immortal  Kobo-Daishi,  Special  services  are  held 
here  by  the  abbot,  whose  seat  is  seen  at  the  ed^^  oi  \i)Ck&  ^«ja. 
Unkoku  Tosehif  one  of  the  masters  of  tYie  SessKil  ^^o«^\ 
painted  the  Chinese  scenes  in  sepia  oh  the  pait\\»\oiMa  o1  \>aft 
next  room.  One  of  the  suite  is  caJjed  the  Irori-TMHrad  ^  Yksaxw 
jvoujj  from  the  queer  heating  chamber,  axouad  ^\3i^>CL  XJa^ 


622    Rte.  28.       KYOTO  TO  KOYA-SAN  MieiM. 

monks  sit  and  repeat  the  sviras  in  cold  weather.  The  strikiiK 
kakemono  of  Ydkushi-Nyorai  in  a  red  robe  backed  by  a  dark 
ground  is  by  an  unknown  painter.  The  big  kitchen  (dcddohoro), 
where  the  simple  food  of  the  monks  and  visiting  pilerims  is 
prepared,  is  worth  looking  into.  —  The  structure  hardf  by  the 
Kongo-buji  is  the  Theological  Seminary  {gakurin)  where  the 
various  tenets  of  Buddhism  are  taught.  Passing  up  a  short 
avenue  flanked  by  Koyormaki  trees  one  soon  reaches 

The  MiEi-DO  ('Ancestral  HalF),  a  low,  sauare,  single- 
storied  building  with  a  thatched  roof  surmounted  by  a  hdmor 
no-tama.  The  interior  is  restricted  by  a  shrine  within  a  waU 
whose  ten  square  outer  panels  carry  each  a  portrait  of  one  o^ 
KukaVs  disciples.  The  much  venerated  picture  within  the 
shrine  is  of  the  great  apostle  himself.  One  of  the  most  precious 
of  the  temple  treasures,  perhaps  authentic  but  of  little  wortli 
to  foreigners,  is  a  small  terra-cotta  figure  of  Buddha  said  to 
have  been  modeled  by  KdbO'Daiski  (1100  yrs.  ago)  when  7  yrs. 
old.  Of  equal  merit  is  a  brown-lacquered  box  with  the  almost 
obliterated  outline  of  a  lion  on  the  top,  containing  a  plait»i 
straw  sandal  said  to  have  been  given  to  him  by  the  Emperor 
Saga  —  but  whose  authenticity  requires  verification.  A  genu- 
ine curio  is  a  tarred  calabash,  made  of  several  sheets  of  beaten 
and  compressed  paper  covered  with  a  thin  layer  of  exfoliated 
lacquer  decorated  dimly  with  gold  butterflies,  within  which 
is  a  chaplet  given  to  the  great  Buddhist  teacher  by  the  Em- 
peror of  China  who  reigned  during  the  early  years  of  the  9th 
cent.  It  is  considered  so  precious  that  it  is  stored,  along  with 
the  two  aforementioned  articles,  In  a  special  godown,  with 
very  thick,  fireproof  walls,  and  is  taken  out  only  on  the  rarest 
occasions.  Of  greater  interest  to  the  traveler  is  the  superb 
mandara  about  10  by  10  ft.  sq.,  called  Nehanrzdf  or 'Buodha 
Entering  Nirvana,'  an  admirably  executed  work  regarded  by 
Japanese  critics  as  one  of  the  greatest  masterpieces  extant  in 
Japan,  and  on  a  par  with  some  of  Raphael  SanzUi's  best  work. 

The  fact  that  this  magnificent  picture  was  painted  by  an  obscure  Japanese 
bonse  who  was  born  (in  942;  d.  1017)  541  yrs.  before  the  great  Italian  saw  the 
Ught  at  Urbino,  is  significant  of  the  latent  possibilities  of  this  singular  people. 
Bshin  Soxu  (Sdxu  means  an  exalted  dignitary  in  the  Buddhist  heirarony), 
whose  real  name  was  Urabe  Genahin,  who  entered  the  Hiei-xan  Monastery 
at  an  early  age,  studied  under  Jie-Daishi,  became  a  scholar,  painter,  and 
sculptor;  who  built  the  Eahin^n  temple  at  Yokaioa  and  prepared  the  foun- 
dation of  the  Jodo  sect,  is  believed  to  nave  achieved  this  marvel  of  teohnical 
skill  about  the  year  1000.   The  original  canvas  was  three  times  its  present 
sise,  the  two  remaining  segments  having  perished  or  disappeared.   Because 
of  this  certain  critics  deny  its  authenticity,  and  ascribe  it  to  some  clever 
copyist  of  the  Otoku  era  (1084-87).    The  subject  (often  referred  to  as  *The 
Heavenly  Band'^  is  a  favorite  one  with  Indian,  Chinese,  and  Japanese 
painters;  Shaka  is  porttayed  retMndnij^  to  heaven  after  his  brief  sojourn  on 
earth,  and  the  manifest  ioy  of  the  ceYestVaX^oaX.  (^oulx^sfA^AxQasrahly  with  the 
tragic  and  hopeless  grief  depicted  ou  t\ie  iacea  ol  \)a»  ^axVJt^'s  W^wijw^.  ^CV«i 
drawiuK  ia  done  with  great  character  aM^^Vty ,  «^jea^^^ 

ereen  alk  background  makea  a  evLP^V^-^'^x  ^^^"^V^tv^^^^J^ 
olouda,  temples;  aiKi  what-not  akmivto  ^P^av^  ou\\»  wfl^w».  -t^^jMb- 


MieMd.  KYOTO  TO  KOYA-SAN      es.  Rie.    623 

nomenal  mastery  of  detail,  the  perfect  skill  with  which  the  dark  afumato 
shadows  have  been  painted  on  a  ground  glowing  with  soft,  ethereal  light; 
the  epiritual  conception  of  the  whole,  and  the  wonderful  harknony  of  color 
recall  some  of  the  work  of  MuriUo  done  in  his  best  manner.  It  is  extraordin- 
arily well  preserved,  and  in  point  of .  color  and  freshness  is  superior  to  most  of 
the  Japanese  paintings  of  iJl  classes  distributed  throughout  the  Empire. 

The  fine  kakemono  showing /S/iaA»  enthroned  on  a  lotus  medi- 
tating in  the  midst  of  the  eight  ho8(Usu  is  peculiarly  attractive, 
and  is  by  Cho  Shikyo,  The  placid  expression  of  the  great 
teacher  as  he  sits  with  bared  breast  and  hands  held  down  is 
unusually  pleasing;  the  tones  throughout  are  low  and  har- 
monious, in  fine  contrast  to  the  splendid  red  robe  patterned 
with  gold  disks.  Hard  by  is  a  sadly  defaced  but  stnking  pic- 
ture of  the  Rain  God  a  faint  but  commanding  figure  perhaps 
a  thousand  yrs.  old,  with  the  tip  of  a  dragon's  tail  showing  at 
Uie  bottom  of  the  canvas.  The  bizarre,  light-toned  kakemono 
of  Dainichi-Nyoraif  though  apparently  modem,  is  extremely 
old  and  strangely  preserved.  There  is  a  mysterious  something 
about  the  picture  that  impresses  one  queerly;  the  serenely 
beautiful,  radiantly  calm  face,  with  downcast,  womanly  eyes, 
and  pinkish,  bow-shaped  lips,  has  a  subtle  madonna  qusuity 
that  reminds  one  of  the  exquisitely  dainty  Andalusian  santas 
of  MuriUo,  The  comparison  is  heightened  by  the  fine  flesh 
tints,  the  low-toned  reds  and  blues,  and  the  faint  and  harmo- 
niously transparent  shades  that  can  only  be  produced  by  light- 
proof  pigments.  The  charm  of  the  winsome  face  and  the 
puritv  of  the  general  effect  haunts  one.  Numerous  tiny 
Buddhas  with  delicate  little  faces  adorn  the  gold  diadem,  and 
around  the  twin  circles  drawn  in  outhne  on  the  background 
flame  thin  lines  of  divine  fire  such  as  one  sometimes  sees 
enveloping  the  relentless  Fudo.  The  silken  strips  which  form 
the  body  of  the  kaJcemono  are  narrower  than  modem  stuffs  and 
are  of  a  kind  popular  about  a  thousand  yrs.  ago.  The  painter's 
name  is  unknown,  but  the  work  bears  a  strong  resemblance 
to  certain  of  Mokkei^s  best  productions.  The  old  kakemono 
(ascribed  to  Kobo-Daishi),  portraying  Kariba  Myojin  and  his 
mother,  are  ranked  as  masterpieces  and  belong  to  the  National 
Treasury.  A  mandara  of  noteworthy  excellence  and  amazing 
technique,  about  5  by  15  ft.,  of  Korean  origin,  painter  un- 
known, with  a  host  of  figures  in  low-toned  greens  and  reds 
and  gold,  represents  Shaka  and  his  disciples,  and  is  painted  on 
a  thin  coarse  cloth  bordered  with  green  strips  from  the  cos- 
tumes of  a  group  of  dancers  who  once  entertained  Hideyoshi 
and  leyasu  here.  It  is  an  admirable  production,  comparable 
to  certain  of  the  finest  work  of  native  artists,  and  surpassing 
many  of  them  in  execution  and  impressiveness.  Another,  ^  b^i 
8  ft.,  boldly  wrought  in  dark  brown^  ^owb  SKcikar  N'uoTaA.  «a  v^ 
finely  modeled,  bearded  man  with  ear-ringa  —  a  couoxisai^ca^ 
and  masterly  production  by  Toyeki. 
Spread  out  on  a  beautifully  lacquered  table  lot  \Saft  >Qi^^^ 


524    m.  28,      KYOTO  TO  KOYA-SAN        Golden  HiOL 

inspectioii  of  speoial  visitors  are  various  national  treasures  of 
bronze,  lacquer,  etc;  the  goko,  aanko,  kukoj  and  toko  (p.  Qcxii), 
and  the  bronze  nand-bells  (called  goko^eif  aanko-reij  etc.)  show- 
ing these  symbols  on  their  handles,  were  brought  from  China 
by  Kdhd-Daishi,  The  little  lacquered  shrine,  now  falling  to 
decay,  is  interesting  chiefly  for  its  great  age  and  for  the  fact 
that  it  was  perhaps  made  anterior  to  the  Fujiwara  epoch.  The 
rosaries  were  given  to  Kukai  by  an  early  Chinese  emperor. 
The  extraordinarily  fine  sq.  wood  blocks  (about  6  by  8  in.  and 
called  taitmehori  no  mcmdara),  shown  as  specimens  of  Kukai's 
amazing  ability  as  a  sculptor  in  wood,  shomd  not  be  overlooked. 
The  myriad  hair-lines  are  almost  incredibly  minute,  and  sug- 
gest marvelous  patience  and  skill.  —  Not  the  least  interesting 
of  the  temple  treasures  are  4000  scrolls  of  the  Buddhist  scrip- 
tures, the  residue  of  the  5000  said  to  have  been  presented  by 
the  Fujiwara  skogun,  Hidehiraf  in  1150;  some  have  cut  ci-ystal 
tips,  while  others  are  silver  or  chased  gold.  All  are  beautifully 
inscribed  on  blue  paper,  one  ideographic  line  being  in  gold  and 
the  alternate  one  in  silver.  Ecclesiologists  will  be  interested 
in  the  28  special  rolls  (presented  in  1590  by  Toyotorni  Hide^ 
yoehi)  written  in  gold  on  blue  parchment-like  paper,  with 
elaborately  chased  silver  tips  and  clasps.  To  those  wno  are 
interested  the  priest  will  show  some  old  flat  Chinese  folding 
books  of  similar  character,  written  in  silver;  and  some  others 
(very  precious)  written  in  black  in  one  of  the  earliest  forms  of 
ideo^aphic  style.  Some  of  the  modem  Korean  scrolls  are 
illuminated,  and  lovely  gold  tracery  illustrates  certain  of  the 
texts.  —  Just  across  the  road  from  the  Mieirdo  is  the  bar- 
barically  splendid 

Kon-dQ,  or  Golden  Hall,  an  aptly  named,  massive,  two- 
storied,  square,  tile-roofed  edifice  dating  from  1852  and  occu- 
pying the  site  of  an  older  structure  burned  a  decade  earlier. 
Its  beautiful  situation  backed  by  green  and  lofty  trees,  and 
the  breadth  and  depth  of  the  bold  wood-sculptures  on   the 
weather-beaten  exterior,  make  a  stronger  appeal  than  the  pro- 
.    fusely  decorated  interior,  which  blazes  with  gold  and  color  and 
is  a  bit  too  gaudy  to  be  in  good  taste.  The  custodian  (whose 
ofiice  is  in  the  squat  building  down  at  the  left)  sometimes  lets 
the  visitor  in  through  the  rear  door  (diagonally  opposite  the 
Mieirdo),  The  first  things  one  sees  on  the  inside  here  are  the 
great  doors  swung  on  huge  pivots  let  into  soffits  above  and 
below,  serving  as  rear  exits  (in  case  of  fire)  for  the  splendid 
Yakuahi- Nyorai  on  the  main  altar.  They  are  made  of  single, 
massive,  lacquered  and  brass-trimmed  keyaki  slabs,  and  are 
4  ft,  wide  and  18  ft.  long.  Extending  round  to  the  right  and 
left  are  some  striking  painted  v^*-^^^^  ^^  ^^^  Sixteen  Rakan, 
strong  in  composition  and  wtYi  exXTa.oT^vcv^T^^  ^w^x^aaskqt^ 
faces.  The  temple  is  conalTUcted  oi^i  \)^^  V^t^xv  ^'^^^^;^:^^ 
squaxea,  one  within  the  otViet,  Viie  >oi\\\i«^^^  «iA^^^T%tes«. 


Kon-dd,  KYOTO  TO  KOYA-SAN      «.  Rie.    626 

increasing  as  one  penetarates  to  the  center,  where  the  main 
shrine  stands  like  a  jewel  in  a  triple  reliquary.  The  keyaki 
pillars  (from  Shinano  Province)  lacquered  a  rich  Indian  red, 
then  completely  covered  with  heavy  gold  foil,  are  superb. 
Between  the  outer  pillars  are  slatted,  black-lacquered  doors 
that  impart  a  wholesome  sobering  effect;  above  them  are  17 
carved  and  gilded  panels  of  flying  tennin  admirably  executed 
in  high  relief  by  NdkcLgawa^  a  modem  artist.  Above  is  a 
wealth  of  arabesques,  gilded  tie-  and  cross-beams,  and  a  con- 
fusing maze  of  diaper-work  in  noisy  colors.  The  central  panel 
with  its  twin  angels  of  the  Buddhist  Paradise  is  a  good  illus- 
tration of  the  skill  displayed  by  present-day  sculptors  in  the 
subtle  art  of  carving  in  wood  —  as  are  likewise  the  small  but 
artistically  chiseled  and  colored  groups  of  birds  on  the  super- 
imposed beams.  The  tiny  sunken  panels  of  the  coffered  ceiling 
each  carry  different  flower-designs. 

The  outer  hall,  or  gejirit  admito  one  to  the  interior,  or  naijin, 
where  the  most  conspicuous  thin^  is  the  wide  lacquered  base 
supporting  a  gold-lacquered  reliquary  containing  a  seated 
image  of  lakushi^  Nyoraiy  unwarrantably  ascribed  to  KobO' 
Daishi,  The  seated  figures  at  the  right  are  Kongo^osaiaUf 
Fugen,  and  Fvdd;  and  at  the  left  Kongo  Satta,  Kokuzd- 
bosatsuj  and  Oozame  Myd-o,  The  mandara  against  the  left 
wall  depicts  Kariha  Myojin  and  his  mother,  with  Kezai 
Myojin  and  Bezaiten  below.  The  figure  on  the  kakemono  at 
the  right,  in  a  realistic  seated  posture,  with  his  Chinese  shoes 
beneath  his  chair,  is  the  omnipresent  Mr.  Daishif  when  he  was 
42  yrs.  old.  The  ceiling  of  the  naijin  is  a  duplicate  of  that  of 
the  gejin  except  that  the  complex  portion  above  the  shrine 
carries  dragons  and  mythological  phoenixes  painted  in  restless 
colors.  Before  the  great  altar,  on  the  highly  polished  black- 
lacquered  floor,  are  many  temple  fitments  —  a  veritable 
jumble  of  native  brass  burnished  to  a  fine  luster.  Four  of  the 
great  gold-covered  upri^t  pillars  are  decorated  with  scowline 
Gods  of  the  Four  Directions,  with  bases  and  capitals  enriched 
with  polychromatic  decorations  made  to  imitate  draperies. 
The  mural  decorations  are  noteworthy;  the  largest  wall- 
panels  are  20  by  25  ft.,  painted  to  represent  the  two  halves  of 
the  Buddhist  universe  and  portraying  a  host  of  figurines 
executed  with  no  mean  skill. 

Certain  of  the  tawdry,  decaying  structures  in  the  vicinity  of 
the  Kon-do  are  used  as  storehouses  and  are  crammed  with 
small  and  large  gilt  images  rescued  from  the  manv  fiires  which 
have  destroyed  the  Older  temples;  one  of  them  (\%ii)  is  upward 
of  700  yrs.  old  and  in  consequence  ranks  as  one  of  the  moat 
ancient  edifices  in  the  settlement.    It  is  gpV\)  ptol^xXiN  ^  S& 
included  in  the  list  of  national  treasures,  and  \a  N^r^  c;dX^\iSi:S 
preserved  from  £re.  The  statue  of  Fudo  YfYii^ih  one  xCkM  '^^^ 
tbrougb  the  cracks  in  the  door  is  erroikeo\i&\v  aA.\itT^i>a^^  ^*^ 


626    BU.  iS8.      KYOTO  TO  KOYA-SAN  Great  Gaie. 

Unkei.  In  the  Daiyenid,  across  the  road,  is  a  group  of  huge 
gilded  figures  of  Amida  and  his  suite.  The  small  building 
called  JurUeirdo,  just  beyond  the  Miei-do^  contains  a  Kwanrum 
said  to  have  been  chiseled  by  KUkaL  Next  to  it  is  an  old  shed 
that  houses  5  huge  and  excellently  preserved  images  of  the 
God  of  Wisdom  (which  occupied  better  quarters  before  the 
old  pagoda  was  burned  in  1888).  On  the  slightly  elevated  ter- 
race at  the  left  stands  the  quaintly  constructed  Saitd,  or 
Western  Pagoda,  also  crowded  with  small  statues.  The  greatly 
revered  Shinto  shrines  across  the  way  are  dedicated  to  Kariba 
Myojin  and  his  consort.  —  The  curious  sexagonal  Revolving 
Library  (kyozo)  is  two-storied  and  is  put  together  like  a  prim- 
itive log  cabin. 

The  broad  road  leading  up  at  the  right  goes  to  the  (i  M.) 
Great  Gate  {dav-mon),  which  dates  from  the  Genroku  era 
(1688-1704).  Before  the  rly.  reached  Koyagiushi  it  was  the 
chief  entrance  to  the  sacred  inclosure.  It  stands  at  the  W.  side 
of  this,  and  is  an  immensely  sturdy  old  structure  with  a  heavy 
superimposed  roof  covered  with  tiles.    Two  huge,    badly 

r'*[itered  Nio  guard  it  from  their  respective  loggias,  and 
e  out  fiercely  at  whosoever  approaches  from  this  angle. 
I'rom  its  commanding  position  on  a  broad  terrace  which 
slopes  abruptly  to  the  d!eep  valley  just  below^  one  enjoys  a 
marvelous  view  of  forest-belted  mts.  and  distant  vales.  The 
one-time  popular  (but  now  unattractive)  road  which  leads 
(right)  to  (12  ri  —  30  M.)  Wakayamaj  is  but  little  used,  and 
after  the  spring  rains  is  apt  to  be  in  bad  repair.  The  seated 
bronze  figure  just  inside  the  entrance  (left)  is  Mirokvrbosatsu. 
The  Shojo  Shin-in  is  a  25  min.  walk  from  here,  and  on  the 
return  one  sees  straight  ahead,  3|  M.  distant,  the  bare,  pointed 
cone  of  Jin-gamine^  from  whose  summit  one  may  look  out 
across  thirty  provinces. 

The  Karukaya-d6,  a  small  shrine  on  the  main  road  to  the 
fain,  is  popular  with  pilgrims  because  of  the  story  associated 
with  it.   The  framed  picture  protected  by  a  wire  screen  near 
the  entrance,  portraying  two  women  in  low  relief  with  real 
hair  and  clothes,  playing  go-han;  their  heads  nearly  touch- 
ing, their  hair  merging  above  in  entwined  serpents  which  glare 
venomously  at  one  another,  explains  the  theme.    They  were 
the  wives  of  Kurakaya-doshin  and  they  lived  together  amicably 
mitil  the  fire  of  jealousy  flamed  out.    Kurakaya  watched  them 
one  day  as  they  played  the  national  game,  and  his  fancy  pic- 
tured the  serpents  and  the  smothered  conflict  in  their  hearts. 
Straightway  ne  renounced  them  and  the  world,  retired  to 
Koyorsan^  shaved  his  head,  founded  the  temple,  and  became 
a  monkifiih  recluse.  Later,  wYiesv  Y»&  bdov^  son  followed  and 
hegaed  him  to  return,  lie  dramaWciaJLVj  ^ecX^^  «k^  >ESL^^\Kdsq^ 
of  Jum!    This  tramc  episode  —  w\^^\v  «^^^^  ^Njks^^  \^ 
Japanese  emotions,  and  ^,if\uc\x\»a\>^^^«^^^^'»«^^^^'^'^ 


The  Cemetery.      KYOTO  TO  KOYA-SAN      28.  Rie.    627 

time  and  again  in  sons  and  story  —  is  pictured  here;  the  rigid 
but  heart-broken  father,  and  the  dazed  and  weeping  son. 
Portraits  of  Karukaya  hang  within  the  temp|le.  The  moral 
of  the  story  is  addressed  to  the  polygamously  inclined. 

The  Ek6-in,  5  min.  from  the  Shqjd  Shin-4n,  is  now  shorn 
of  its  whilom  splendor.  The  pictures  for  which  it  was  once 
celebrated  have  been  transferred  to  museums  and  private 
collections,  and  all  that  remains  —  some  tiger  screens  by 
Kano  TanyUf  and  a  carved  wood  Kioannon  of  the  Fujivxira 
period  —  are  not  worth^going  to  see. 

The.  Kongo  Sammai-in,  15  min.  walk,  is  very  old  and  is 
one  of  the  few  temples  that  has  not  suffered  from  the  fires 
which  have  scourged  the  settlement.  Chief  among  its  interior 
adornments  is  a  screen  by  Oguri  Solan  (1398-1464)  showing 
some  large  trees,  flowers,  and  birds  on  a  faded  gold  back- 
ground, and  some  white  cranes  feeding  among  brown  reeds  — 
all  more  noteworthy  for  rich  coloring  than  for  conception.  A 
series  of  paintings  show  K^d-Daishi  and  his  traditional  Chi- 
nese companions  (a  favorite  theme  of  native  painters).  What 
is  perhaps  a  genuine  bit  of  old  Chinese  lacquer  is  preserved 
in  the  shape  of  a  gong-stand  with  uprights  decorated  in  gold 
hummocks  flecked  with  tiny  trees,  amidst  which  gallop  awk- 
ward horsemen  (typically  Chinese)  shooting  with  bows  and 
arrows,  or  hurling  javelins  at  birds.  Of  greater  historical 
interest  is  the  archaic  twin-storied  pagoda  known  as  the 
TahO'tdy  built  by  the  order  of  MasakOy  mother  of  the  3d 
Minamoto  shogun^  SanetomOj  during  the  Kamakura  epoch 
(1192-1219).  The  inner  shrine  of  this  wonderful  old  relic, 
that  has  slept  here  in  the  ancient  peace  of  great  trees  for  nearly 
a  millennium,  contains  some  good  sculptured  figures  (by  (7n- 
kei)  of  Shakaj  Dainichi-Nyoraif  Amidaj  and  other  divinities, 
all  backed  by  gilded  and  pierced  mandorlas.  The  four  sturdy 
columns  which  support  the  ceiling  are  enriched  with  painted 
medallions.  Special  engineers  came  hither  from  T5ky5  to 
repair  the  structure  in  1908,  and  sustained  efforts  are  being 
made  to  prolong  its  life.  The  group  .of  6  cryptomeria  trees 
in  the  yard  are  almost  as  old  and  as  famous  as  the  aged  shrine 
at  the  left  —  a  national  treasure  (said  to  be  the  oldest  stand- 
ing wood  shrine  in  Japan)  built  by  Minamoto  YorUomo  in  the 
year  of  Our  Lord  a.d.  1190! 

The  Cemetery  {rantoha),  a  vast,  awe-inspiring  City  of 
the  Dead  extending  for  l|  M.  through  a  narrow  grove  of 
stately  cryptomeria  and  hitioki  trees,  and  intersected  by  a 
strikingly  beautiful  avenue    terminating  at  the  (40  min;) 
Manddro,  or  Hall  of  the  Ten  Thousand  Lamps,  is  one  of  tbfc 
most  curious  in  Japan,  and  should  not  be  imeaed.  \ixmi^^c^»X^ 
Yyehind  this  structure  is  the  Okun<Hin  (*lMierm.oei  ^ccoiJ^^^^ 
where  lie  the  bones  of  the  immoT[aX  KCbo-Da-UKv  TV^fcwexsMfe 
beguw  at  the  /chp-no-hashi    (*  First  Bridgife'^  'w\sk!e^  %V*5» 


628    Rie,  28.      KYOTO  TO  KOYA-SAN     The  Cemelgry. 

a  runnel  called  the  Odo^awa  (Chinese:  ^  Imperial  Domain 
River'),  1  min.  beyond  the  Shojo  Shiiv4h.  Several  hundred 
tombs,  miniature  pagodas,  toriif  vaults,  and  the  like  are  scat- 
tered through  the  splendid  grove,  and  range  in  size  from  a 
tiny  chiseled  figure  no  larger  than  one's  hand  to  coloissal 
granite  structures  weighing  several  tons;  some  are  new  and 
are  all  aglitter  with  gilt  and  t)ronze;  others  are  weather-stained, 
and  moss-  and  lichen-covered.  The  handsome  bronze  shafts, 
covered*  with  gilded  characters  in  high  relief  and  surmounted 
by  burnished  capitals  which  customarily  rise  from  broad 
granite  plinths,  are  known  as  'party  monuments,'  the  scores 
of  names  incised  in  the  bronze  sides  being  those  of  devotees 
who  wish  to  be  perpetuated  here  so  that  their  souls  may  enter 
the  cherished  JodOf  or  *Pure  Land  of  Perfect  Bliss,'  and  be 
with  that  of  the  great  founder.  While  some  of  the  tombs  stand 
above  the  actual  remains  of  honored  dead,  others  are  merely 
monuments  inscribed  with  the  names  of  persons  interred  in 
distant  parts  of  the  Empire.  Not  a  few  mark  the  spot  where 
a  wisp  of  hair,  some  ashes,  a  bone,  or  a  tooth  of  a  devotee  is 
buried.  Conspicuous  among  the  tombs  are  the  ponderous  and 

Eicturesque  stupa-shaped  ones,  known  locally  as  gorin-^no^o, 
ecause  they  are  composed  of  five  sculptured  layers  of  stone, 
one  on  the  top  of  another,  and  represent  (in  Hindu  literature) 
the  five  elements  —  earth,  water,  fire,  wind,  and  space.  The 
largest  (which  commemorates  one  of  the  daimyds  of  Suruga 
Province)  is  28  ft.  high  and  has  a  foundation  12  ft.  sq.  The 
oldest  is  of  the  celebrated  Minamoto  shogurtf  Tada  Mitsunaka 
(or  Tada  Manju)j  and  dates  from  997.  All  were  rolled,  or 
dragged,  or  pushed  up  the  mt.  at  an  almost  imthinkable  ex- 
pense of  time,  labor,  and  money;  the  tomb  of  one  of  the  great 
Lords  of  Satsuma  was  so  heavy  that  history  says  it  could  be 
moved  but  3  in.  a  day,  and  that  several  years  were  required 
to  bring  it  to  its  final  resting-place! 

Proceeding  down  the  winding  avenue  —  a  beautiful  and 
impressive  sight  when  the  rising  sun   lays  golden  shafts  of 
light  between  the  lofty  trees  —  one  notes  at  the  left  the  fine 
tombs  of  the  once  powerful  daimyds  of  Kaga,  Satsuma,  Rik- 
uzen,  and  other  provinces;  not  far  from  the  bridge  at  the  right 
are  those  of  Taira  Atsumori  and  Kumagaya  Naozane  (p.  441). 
Farther  on  is  the  tomb  of  Takeda  Harunobu  (Shingen),   Near 
it  is  a  stone  where  Koho-Daishi  used  to  sit,  and  which  in  con- 
sequence is  called  Kobo-Daishi^s  sitting-stone.   Not  far  away 
is  a  curiously  crooked  willow  tree  called  the  'Dragon  Willow.* 
The  big  bronze  statue  is  of  Kobayashi  Saheif  a  rich  man  of 
Osaka.    Japanese  regard  the  tomb  of  Akechi  MUsuhide  (the 
poetaster  and  traitor  wKo  esaoYed^^  kill  Qda  Nobunaga)  witii 
oated  breath,  since  it  is  split  ija^  a^o^\^\xA^x\yA^;^\T^.^^^^^ 
The  small  rly .  which  runs  xmdemeaXk  >.>afe  ^N^xvm  W^  ^ Jv^ 
prolongation  of  the  timber-xoad  paaa^d  ^X.  Kom^a,   K\.  S5wt 


Oomordo.  KYOTO  TO  KOYA-Si^N     f8.  Rie.    529 

left  of  the  bridge  is  KSbd-Daishi's  WeU,  where  the  great  man 
Lb  said  to  have  seen  the  reflection  of  his  face;  the  credulous 
drink  the  polluted  water  in  staggering  doses  and  ascribe 
miraculous  stomachic  virtues  to  it.  The  near-by  tomb  of 
Shimazu  (of  the  great  family  of  daimyos  who  governed  Sat- 
suma  from  the  end  of  the  12th  cent,  onward)  came  from  distant 
Rykjru;  the  group  of  monuments  encircling  it  commemorate 
the  men  who  fell  during  Hideyoshi^s  invasion  of  Korea.  To 
enumerate  all  the  prominent  tombs  would  merely  confuse  the 
reader.  Some  staoid  to  the  memonr  of  emperors,  shoguns, 
to  the  militant  Shinran  Shdnin,  to  Enko-Daishiy  to  the  popu- 
lar actor  Ishikxiwa  DanjurOf  ana  to  many  notable  and  less  note- 
worthy painters,  poets,  scholars,  warriors,  priests,  princes,  etc. 
The  time-stained  Goma-do,  which  stands  at  the  right  of  the 
path  hereabout,  contains  several  shrines,  one  with  a  wooden 
image  of  Koho-Daishi  said  to  have  been  carved  by  him  at  the 
age  of  42  —  a  critical  age  with  Japanese,  who  believe  that  the 
dice,  cards,  and  what-not  shown  on  the  accompanying  picture 
must  Ije  renoimced  at  this  period  else  they  will  become  sym- 
bolic of  an  early  demise.  At  the  right  and  left  of  the  image 
stand  a  thousand  small  images  of  Kwannon  —  carved,  gilded, 
and  worthless.  The  adjacent  shrine  is  dedicated  to  Fudo. 
Behind  it  is  a  very  old  building,  the  Gokusho,  with  a  reliquary 
displa3dng  dim  old  mandaras  of  the  two  halves  of  the  Buddhist 
universe;  offerings  are  made  here  to  Kukai's  spirit.  The 
bronze  figures  just  beyond  are  called  the  Six  Jizd^  or  Midzu 
muke  Jizo,  from  the  circumstance  that  pilgrims  take  water 
from  the  trough  at  their  feet  and  sprinkle  it  over  them  in  the 
belief  that  by  so  doing  merit  accrues  to  their  forebears.  The 
small,  lichen-covered  bridge,  with  its  8  bronze  giboshu  span- 
ning the  Tamo-gawa  at  this  point,  is  called  Go-Byo-bashi 
('Bridge  to  Kobo-Daishi's  Tomb');  those  who  listen  with 
credulity  to  the  whispered  tradition  believe  that  no  one  can 
cross  it  who  is  not  approved  by  the  great  teacher's  spirit! 
The  monument  at  the  nght  dates  from  1912  and  commemorates 
the  brave  and  willing  men  who  died  in  the  titanic  struggle 
between  the  Japanese  Fox  and  the  Kussian  Bear.  A  small 
cage  at  the  left  of  the  avenue  contains  a  curious  stone  (called 
Miroku-ishi  —  *  Buddhist  deity  stone  ')  resembling  a  mass  of 
fused  metal ;  it  is  said  to  have  been  brought  from  China  by  Koho- 
Daishi  over  a  thousand  yrs.  ago.  The  trees  hereabout  are  splen- 
didly straight  and  tall;  the  big  one  near  by  at  the  left,  inclosed 
by  a  wooden  fence  and  girdled  with  a  rope,  is  called  Ryutd  Sugi 
C  Cedar  of  the  Dragon's  Lantern '),  since  in  its  topmost 
boughs  the  heavenly  spirits  have  been  known  to  haA^cA<^Mvs\ 
lights!  Wherefore  a  sign-board  cautipiiB  tYie  «a.C;T&"fc^o>aa  "afiX 
to  touch  it.  The  great  tree  opposite  'measuTea  Til  K.  ^  Va..  Vsv 
cIroumfereDce  4  ft.  above  the  ground.  In  t\i^  leuted  «g«^«\ 
at  the  left  of  the  walk  are  numorouB  tombs  ol  lA\VsA«^  ©.^^ 


530    Rte,  S8.     KYOTO  TO  KOYA-SAN     HaU  of  Banes. 

other  Imperial  i)ersonages.  The  bronze  image  with  thought- 
ful and  contemplative  face  which  sits  at  the  left  of  the  steps 
leading  up  to  the  Manddrd,  is  a  Jizo  which  the  ailing  com- 
monalty have  rubbed  until  one  knee  shows  a  fine  patina. 
Before  inspecting  the  Hall  of  Ten  Thousand  Lamps  (a  grand- 
iloquent misnomer)  we  proceed  (left)  to 

The  Hall  of  Bones  (Kotsu'^d)^  a  grisly  and  repulsive 
circular  edifice  plastered  over  with  ex-^otos  and  visiting-cards, 
and  enriched  with  numerous  bunches  of  hair  resembling  dried 
scalp-locks.  In  the  slatted  door  is  a  hole  through  which  bones 
are  tossed  into  a  common  ossuary  —  a  sort  of  pauper  pit 
for  the  corporeal  bits  of  those  who  could  not  afford  to  com- 
mand a  tomb,  but  who  wished  some  of  their  anatomy  to  rest 
contiguous  to  Koho-Daishi^s  remains.  By  this  ingenious 
method  they  hoped  to  obtain  a  sort  of  blanket  fire  insurance 
and  the  grace  with  which  to  start  a  new  life  in  the  wished-for 
land  of  ideal  purity.  The  path  leading  beyond  the  small  ^te 
at  the  left  goes  to  minor  tombs  that  are  not  worth  inspecting. 

K6b5-Daishi's  Tomb,  the  Ultima  Thule  of  his  devoted  fol- 
lowers, where  the  sainted  prophet  is  supposed  to  sit  uncor- 
rupted,  awaiting  his  next  incarnation,  is  at  the  right,  behind 
a  Darred  fence,  within  a  weather-beaten  shrine  surmounted 
by  a  hosku-no-tama.  It  is  the  most  popular  object  of  veneration 
within  the  holy  precincts  of  Kdya-sarij  if  not  of  Central  and 
Western  Japan,  for  more  than  one  hundred  thousand  persons 
from  all  parts  of  the  Empire  come  here  annually  to  pay  hom- 
age to  the  memory  of  the  man  who  first  propounded  the  Shin- 
gon  doctrines  in  Nippon,  and  who,  in  bringing  Kdya-san  into 
animate  life,  perpetuated  his  name  perhaps  for  all  time. 
Thousands  crowd  hither  on  the  2l8t  of  March,  when  new  vest- 
ments are  laid  upon  the  tomb  and  the  old  ones  retired.  The 
fragrant  smoke  of  incense  blends  eternally  with  that  of  the 
flowers  which  are  always  kept  fresh  before  the  sepuJcher. 
Many  bronze  vases,  lotuses,  lanterns,  and  the  like  embellish 
the  spot.  The  dilapidated  old  structure  at  the  right  is  the 
Revolving  Library,  with  an  uninteresting  Monju-bosatsu. 

The  MandorQ,  a  ramshackle  wooden  building  about  40  by 
100  ft.,  erected  by  Ishida  Kazushige  (or  Mitsunari  —  leader 
of  the  army  of  130,000  men  defeated  by  Tokugawa  leyasu 
at  Sekigaftara,  Oct.  21,  1600),  has  a  darksome  interior  partly 
filled  with  a  hundred  or  more  brass  lanterns  in  which  tiny  wiclcs 
burn  and  flicker  faintly  —  hence  the  high-sounding  title  of 
Hall  op  Ten  Thousand  Lamps.  These  are  the  gifts  of  various 
persons;  the  bright  one  at  the  right  is  said  to  have  burned  with- 
out interruption  for  more  tlaaii  a  Wiow^aaad  yrs.  One,  the  gift 
of  the  Emperor  Skirahiwa  Ho-o,  ^aa>i\.  ^\.\C\^  \<Ka.>iJcL*\si.  U29 
&nd  has  not  been  extinguisYiedX  Yot  ^  sea  \X\fe  Wfi»\.  ^^^ 
tArough  a  brief  ceremony  and  m^^xv^  ^^  S^^X^>^^^ 
DaisKVa  spirit.   An  additional  mcom^  \^  dmN^^\^^^x5^s.^^ 


The  Return.         KYOTO  TO  KOYA-SAN      S8,  Rie.    531 

of  small  images  (10  sen)  of  this  saint,  pressed  into  an  embossed 
tablet  made  from  the  ashes  of  incense  burned  before  his  shrine. 
Tiny  bits  of  the  cloth,  of  which  the  vestments  placed  on  the 
tomb  are  made,  are  ea^rly  bought  by  the  credulous,  who  be- 
lieve that  an  illness  can  be  cured  by  shredding  and  swallowing 
them,  or  by  rubbing  the  ailing  spot  with  them.  The  crystal 
rosary  spread  out  on  the  piece  of  silk  brocade  at  the  right  of 
the  reliquary  belonged  to  Kukai.  Behind  it,  under  a  sort  of 
baldachin,  is  a  gold-lacquered,  stupa-shaped  shrine  (shariio) 
presented  by  the  Emperor  Saga.  —  On  the  way  back  to  the 
inn  note  the  fine  old  carvings  m  the  spandrel  formed  by  the 
two  sides  of  the  roof  and  the  ridge  of  the  Gokusho,  The 
tombs  opposite  the  entrance,  on  a  terrace  at  the  right,  are  of 
Oda  Nobunaga  and  his  family,  and  Toyotomi  Hideyoshi. 

The  Return  to  Nara  or  Kyoto  can  be  pleasantly  varied 
by  following  the  route  described  below.  If  breakfast  be 
ordered  for  6  a.m.,  and  a  start  made  at  7,  the  rear  gate  can 
be  reached  and  the  descent  begun  25  min.  later.  A  swinging 
stride  brings  one  to  the  Gokuraku-baahi  at  7.50,  and  Kamiya 
at  8.10.  At  the  far  end  (35  min.)  of  this  hamlet  stands  a  sign- 
post marking  a  road  which  leads  straight  on  and  another 
(traversed  on  the  upward  climb)  which  turns  sharply  up  at 
the  left.  From  this  angle  Kdyaguchi  is  2  n,  10  chOy  and 
Hashimoto  Station  (farther  up  the  line)  about  3  n.  Continuing 
along  the  smoother  but  narrower  Hashimoto  trail  one  soon 
emerges  on  a  lofty  ridge  between  two  deep  ravines  whence  the 
eye  sweeps  over  a  vast  extent  of  magnificent  mt.  and  plain  — 
the  latter  idealized  by  the  winding,  thread-like  Kino^awa 
and  a  number  of  villages.  The  one  standing  by  the  river  bank 
is  Kudomura,  and  that  beyond,  KoyagiLchi,  The  vista  is 
tremendous,  and  the  knowledge  of  altitude  and  distance 
charms  the  sense.  The  microscopic  towns  stand  exposed  like 
points  on  a  relief  map;  the  tiny  houses  look  like  Japanese 
match-boxes,  and  the  rly.  trains  recall  the  toy  'chu-chu' 
cars  of  childhood.  The  blue  mts.  rise  in  serried  ranks  to  the 
distant  sky-line,  while  between  us  and  the  river  the  vegetation 
which  belts  the  hills  is  seen  to  change  with  the  subtle  grada- 
tions of  climate  —  from  the  cool,  brooding  cypresses  on  the 
mt.  tops,  to  the  flower-decked  siunmer-land  miles  below.  The 
dilated  eye  dominates  a  thousand  square  miles  of  delightful 
landscape,  picked  out  here  and  there  with  flowering  gardens 
or  fruitful  orchards.  The  hills  are  always  green  —  a  perman- 
ent charm  of  the  Japanese  country  —  and  the  lissome,  plume- 
like bamboos  which  rise  with  the  palmettoes  amid  the  decidu- 
ous and  evergreen  trees  impart  a  semitropic  and  i^l«d)i&\\i^ 
aspect.  The  road  to  K&yagttchi  loops  down  acTO«&  ^iSi'fc  %at^ 
at  the  left;  the  main  one  flanks  the  deep  chasm  aX.  \i)afe  fw;^> 
mtA  a  small  river  cbuming  through  it 
The  straggUng  village  of   Koyamura,  wlsacYi  dVu^  >»» 


632    m,  SS.     KYOTO  TO  KOYA-SAN 

group  of  swallows'  nests  to  the  sloping  side  of  the  cliff,  is 

gassed  at  8.50,  along  with  the  several  succeeding  clusters  of 
ouses  beyond  it.  Twenty  min.  later,  one  rounds  the  comer 
of  a  bold  headland  and  descries  far  ahead,  perched  on  a  ridge 
above  the  brawling  Kavmne-gatvaf  th^  strikingly  picturesque 
village  (prettiest  by  far  of  all  the  others  of  the  countryside) 
of  KaneyeH.  The  view  is  bewitching;  the  dashing  river  makes 
a  wide  turn  round  a  triangular  headland  jutting  out  from  a 
tall  range,  then  runs  in  a  contrary  direction  before  losing 
itself  Uke  a  silver  snake  among  the  hills;  the  highroad  which 
links  primitive  Kaneyehi  to  the  modem  railway  follows  it 
along  a  higher  level,  and  recalls  some  of  the  superb  mt.  roads 
of  Switzenand.  The  descent  hither  is  quite  steep  —  a  leg- 
wearying  cUmb  when  approached  from  the  opposite  direction 
—  and  leads  to  the  river,  the  village,  and  a  quaint  old  arched 
bridge  adorned  with  ten  oronze  giboshu.  On  the  opposite  shore 
a  steep,, rocky  street  leads  upward  through  the  town,  the 
inhabitants  of  which  seem  all  engaged  in  making  the  paper 
umbrellas  for  which  it  is.  locally  celebrated,  ^nrikis  are 
obtainable  here;  prices  are  flexible  and  are  usually  graded 
according  to  the  traveler's  fatigue  and  his  anxietv  to  emplo3r 
one.  At  the  head  of  the  street  (reached  at  9.35)  the  jinriki 
road  bears  round  to  the  left;  walkers  can  save  a  half-mile 
by  climbing  up  the  steep  but  broad  road  which  winds  up  at 
the  right,  and  joins  the  main  highway  (25  min.)  on  the  other 
side  of  the  ICane  Pass.  As  we  follow  this  upward  slope  charm- 
ing views  are  obtained  in  retrospect  of  the  quaint  and  attrac- 
tive little  village  sheltered  by  high,  encircling  hills.  In  this 
sequestered,  sun-warmed  winter  station  flowers  flame  imtil 
late  Dec,  and  great  yellow  shaddocks  (jabon)  and  oranges 
of  varying  sizes  ripen  in  the  winter  sun.  The  (15  min.)  hill- 
top is  almost  covered  with  orange  groves  heavy  with  globular 
fruit.  Considerable  thin  copying-paper  (gampishi),  made  from 
the  bast  and  bark  of  the  young  shoots  of  gampi  and  the  kozo, 
or  paper-mulberry  tree  {Papyrus  papyrifera;  often  referred 
to  by  the  untenable  name  of  Brcmssonetia  —  from  Broussonet, 
a  PVench  naturalist,  1761-1807),  is  made  in  the  neighborhood 
and  is  in  demand  because  of  its  excellent  quality.  As  we 
emerge  on  the  national  road  at  10  a.m.,  Koyaguchi  is  visible 
at  the  far  left.  Belated  azaleas,  roses  (prominent  among  them 
the  mullen-pink  —  Lychnis  Coronaria),  asters  of  many 
shades,  and  other  wild  flowers  deck  the  hill-slopes  and  gulches. 
At  10.25  we  enter  the  long,  somnolent  town  of  Kamuro,  with 
a  temple  called  Karukaya^o  (a  tawdry  replica  of  the  one  at 
Koya^san)  ai^d  a  bronze  Jizb  sitting  negligently  on  a  stone 
lotua  in  the  yard.  Pasring  the  iioi  (J^ama^la^  one  bears  to  the 
right  andcontinue»€Jong  tVie  maaxiB\.iftftV,V)Ci^i^NetT>M^^ 
&t  the  left,  and  many  raits  ol  \o%a  awd  xXixcNj.Viwx^^'e^^ 
down  on  the  current.  The  bffis\>e^^^^^^^^^^^^  ^^^^^'^^ 


KYOTO  TO  AMANOHASHIDATB     29.  lUe.    633 

and  planted  to  rice.  In  winter  the  draughty  shops  are  ahnost 
filled  with  the  wild  persimmons  (p.  397)  which  thrive  here- 
about. Scores  of  strings  of  them  hang  from  the  rafters  beneath 
the  eaves  there  to  diy  and  blacken  and  wrinkle  in  the  sun. 
Unless  they  are  peeled  and  so  ripened  before  eating  they  are 
acrid  and  puckery,  and  will  make  the  best  set  of  false  teeth 
a  temporary  misfit! 

Farther  on  the  river  makes  a  wide  detour,  and  to  reach  the 
ferry  one  must  go  out  through  the  upper  end  of  the  town  and 
continue  for  an  appreciable  distance  — first  along  a  good  low- 
land road  covered  with  carefully  tended,  pollarded  mulberry 
trees,  thence  through  two  small  towns  to  Kamuro  no  Shimizu 
village,  on  the  river  bank.  Considerable  silk  is  made  in  the 
vicinity,  and  during  spare  hours  the  people  sit  just  within  the 
doors  ol  their  houses  (or  in  the  local  factory)  reeling  the  tenu- 
ous threads  from  steaming  cocoons.  The  rampageous  river 
often  takes  the  bridge  out  here,  and  a  regular  boat  ferry  has 
been  established  (3  min.,  1  sen).  The  houses  of  Hashimoto 
town  stream  down  to  the  opposite  shore,  which  is  reached  at 
11.15,  just  4i  hrs.  from  the  Kdyorsan  inn.  A  10  min.  walk 
through  the  town  brings  one  to  the  rly.  station,  across  the 
street  from  which  are  several  native  inns  —  Afarwwo^fctmn, 
Hashimoto-kwanf  Mikunv-ktvanf  etc.  Certain  of  the  dwellings 
resemble  temples  because  of  the  local  custom  of  placing  demon 
antefixes  at  tne  salient  points  of  the  roofs.  Dogs  are  pressed 
into  service  in  the  nei^borhood  and  are  made  to  help  the 
farmers  and  pull  jinrikis.  —  If  one  can  board  a  train  passing 
through  Hashimoto  about  noon,  one  can  reach  Kyoto  (fare, 
¥2.70,  1st.  <j1.:  ¥1.60,  2d)  about  6  p.m. 

« 
29.  From  Kyoto  to  Amanohashidate. 

""Amanohashidate  (referred  to  locally  as  Hashidate),  one 
of  the  Sankei,  or  'Three  Famous  Sights  of  Japan,'  on  the 
West  Coast,  facing  the  Japan  Sea,  in  Tango  Province,  Kydto- 
ken,  75  M.  from  Kyoto  (104  from  Osaka),  is  reached  by  the 
Fuktichiyama-Shin'Maizura  section  of  the  San^n  Rly.  Line 
to  (60  M.)  Maizuru  (Kaigan  Statian;  fare,  ¥2.60,  1st.  cl.; 
¥1.54,  2d)  in  about  3  hrs.;  thence  on  foot  (in  about  4  hrs.; 
good  walking;  superb  views),  in  a  jinriki  (see  below)  or  by 
steamer  (in  IJ  hrs.;  fare,  63  sen)  to  Miyazu,  whence  Amano^ 
hashidate  proper  is  a  walk  of  approx.  1  hr. 

The  usual  plan  is  to  start  from  KyOto  (Nijd  Station)  about  8  a.m.,  reach 
Maizuru  (Shin,  or  new,  Maiguru,  the  present  termintu  (tf  the  rly.  is  a  naval 
station  in  which  foreigners  are  euppofled  not  to  be  interested)  and  there 
board  a  stub  train  (in  waiting)  for  xhe  steamer  landing  (5  min.  futher  on) 
at  Kaigan.  If  the  train  is  on  time  the  (goy*t  rly.)  steamer  Caev^t^  dASi^\^T»> 
meals;  do  not  wait  for  trains)  leaves  (fare.SO  aen)  a  iw  m^.  vHXat  \\A«cm«X 
and  docks  at  (16  M.)  Miyazu  early  in  the  afternoon.:  ^y  dvowoXM^VoaiM^* 
in  the  inn  (see  below)  and  Btarting  at  once  for  AmanoluMlMdaie,  on»  cm^V^ 

£^'fJJh'  9/  *i?  /?"™«iy  ^  ™ade  on  foot)  or  leaa.  By  \>oa.\.,  «i  ?««i^^ 
roand  tnp;  byjmnki,  70  sen.  —The  weather  win  make  a  daa«t«n«am«tfi* 


'      SU    Rte,  g9,      KYOTO  TO  AMANOHASHIDATE 

comfort  and  it  should  be  considered  in  one's  plans.  If  on  arrival  at  iCoHian 
one  finds  the  wind  blowing  hard  in  the  bay  (which  means  that  it  is  blowing 
still  harder  at  sea)  and  the  ocean  boisterous  (frequently  the  case  in  winter), 
th6  poky.  Utile  boat  is  likely  to  toss  wUdly  in  the  open,  oeyond  the  shelter  of 
the  hills,  and  the  hour  outside  may  prove  uncomfortable.  In  such  oases 
those  who  dread  the  sea  had  better  employ  one  of  the  rildshas  (¥1.50  in 
winter;  more  in  summer  when  the  crops  need  attention)  in  waiting  at  the 
station  a&d  proceed  overland  (in  3i  hrs.)  to  Miyazu.  A  better  and  cheaper 
way  (usually  adopted  by  the  common-sense  English  and  QOTmans)  is  to 
walk  the  15  M.  and  enJpy  in  a  leisurely  manner  one  of  the  loveliest  bits  of 
coastal  road  in  Japan.  The  charm  of  the  ever-changing  views  of  sea  and  land 
gives  one  no  time  to  think  of  fatigue.  If  Mavntru  is  reached  in  good  weather, 
this  had  better  be  availed  of,  and  one  had  better  start  out  at  once,  on  foot, 
as  the  n^orrow  may  bring  rain.  Whosoever  does  not  care  to  walk  the  entire 
distance  can  engage  a  Jlnriki  to  Yura,  at  about  80  sen.  Vehicles  are  not 
always  to  be  had  were  on  the  return  trip.  By  adopting  this  plan  and  reach- 
ing Miifazu  in  the  afternoon  and  resting  in  the  inn,  one  can  do  the  AmanO' 
haahidiUe  portion  early  the  next  morning,  and  see  it  at  its  best.  By  starting 
(guide  unnecessary)  from  the  inn  at  7  a.m.  one  can  be  back  to  breakfast  at 
10;  board  the  morning  boat  for  Maizuru,  and  reach  Kyoto  early  in  the  even- 
ing. On  a  calm  day  the  sea  trip  is  charming;  certain  sheltered  reaches  of  the 
bay  recall  those  of  the  Inland  Sea.  A  lack  of  knowledge  of  Japanese  need 
deter  no  one,  as  a  letter  from  the  hotel  manager  at  Kydto  to  the  innkeeper  at 
MiyazUt  outlining  one's  wishes,  will  smooth  out  any  difficulties.  The  country 
is  as  safe  as  Bond  St.,  and  the  courtesy  of  the  people  is  marked.  When  a 
foreigner  is  seen  in  the  locality  every  one  guesses  his  destination,  and  he  is 
helped  aJon^  to  it  in  kindly  and  thoughtful  ways. 

'There  is  httle  chcHce  in  the  lif  nb  at  Miyazu ;  all  are  in  native  style,  and 
aU  are  apt  to  be  filled  in  summer  (when  it  is  wise  to  tel^^aph  ahead  from 
Kydtp).  The  Seiki-ro  stands  on  a  spit  of  land  overlooking  the  lovely  bay, 
2  min.  walk  from  the  S.S.  landing;  the  Araki-ya  (a  few  foreign  beds  and  a 
little  En^sh  spoken)  is  8  min.  walk  to  the  right.  The  customary  charge 
for  supper,  room,  and  breakfast  is  ¥3  per  pers.  (for  2  pers.,  ¥5).  The  local 
fish  is  deliciqus,  and  there  are  usually  fresh  milk,  eggs,  toast,  imported  mar- 
malade and  jam,  chicken,  etc.  The  HashidcUe  Hotel  (also  an  inn),  1  min. 
left  of  the  landing,  is  cheaper. 

From  Kyoto  the  train  runs  across  the  valley  floor  toward 
the  N.,  then  bears  round  W.  to  4  M.  Hanazono  with  its  nurs- 
ery and  the  near-i>y  fine  old  Miyoshin-ji.  6  M.  Saga.  The 
Saga-noShaka-do  is  visible  at  the  far  right,  amid  trees.  The 
splendid  groves  of  bamboos  at  the  foot  of  Arashiyama  mark 
the  edge  of  the  plain  on  which  Kyoto  stands.  The  tram-car 
station  is  2  niin.  walk  to  the  left.  The  grade  slopes  gently 
upward  until  the  first  tunnel  (the  outpost  of  many  on  the  line) 
is  traversed.  The  group  of  picturesque  tea-houses  on  the  oppo- 
site bank  of  the  Hozu-gawa  is  verv  Japanesey  in  appearance 
and  is  the  favorite  resort  of  Kyoto  folks  —  who  foregather  here 
in  throngs  during  the  April  cherry-blossom  period  and  when 
the  maples  are  out  in.  the  autumn.  The  river  is  narrow  and 
shallow  in  early  spring,  but  after  the  June  rains  it  looks  for- 
midable enough  as  it  roars  and  plunges  through  the  rocky 
defile.  The  rly.  crosses  it  here  on  a  steel  bridge,  and  beyond 
the  tunnel  it  is  seen  on  the  right  side  of  the  line,  a  graceful, 
sinuoua,  jade-green  shape  f^ovnxi!^  do^n^^d  through  a  maze 
of  high,  rounded  hills.  In  Mft'V  ^^^  ^\o\>e»  ^"mxv^  ^^  ^"jSkRaa 
and  other  wild  flowers,  whic\i  m  ^o^j .  ax^  %>x^^W^^\r^\s| 
scrub  maples  that  for  a  biiel  loxtms^t  ^wa«ia.\fc  >(Jm.\»5^ 


MAIZURU  e9.  RotOe.    535       • 

scape  with  a  mantle  of  crimson.  Enchanting  glimpses  of  the 
stream  are  had  from  the  right  side  of  the  train  as  it  winds  iup 
the  gorge;  conspicuous  features  are  the  long,  flexible  rafts 
fashion^  of  saplings  laid  flat  and  lashed  into  platforms  ten 
trees  wide.  At  times  groups  of  ten  or  more  segments  are  tied 
end  on,  like  freight  cars,  and  they  make  pretty  pictures  as 
thev  glide  down  the  rapios.  Active,  semi-nude  men  stand  fore 
and  ait  J  and  with  long,  supple  poles  guide  them  away  from 
the  deadly  rocks  on  their  downward  rush  through  the  narrow 
defiles.  At  times  the  river  spreads  into  quiet  pools  whose  crys- 
tal  waters  mirror  the  color-blotches  on  the  hill-slopes  until 
they  resemble  rich  silken  brocades. 

13  M.  Kameohiy  in  Tamba  Province,  is  the  starting-point 
for  the  near-by  village  of  HozUf  near  the  head  of  the  rapids 
of  the  same  name.  Considerable  tea  is  cultivated  in  the  neigh- 
borhood, and  in  the  winter  wheat  is  planted  crosswise  on  the  ele- 
vated rows  which  in  summer  form  the  boundaries  of  rice-fields. 
The  river  is  glimpsed  at  the  right  before  we  enter  the  hills  near 
(18  M.)  Ya^giy  a  shipping-point  for  charcoal  and  firewood  des- 
tined for  the  KySto  market.  Many  pollarded  mulberry  trees 
dot  the  landscape,  and  raw  silk  is  manufactured  in  the  farm- 
steads. The  river  is  crossed  and  four  tunnels  threaded  beyond 
(22  M.)  Sonobe  (a  name  often  appHed  locally  to  the  riy.  line). 
27  M.  Tonoda;  the  great  piles  of  fagots  which  sometunes  al- 
most hide  the  station  from  view,  point  to  the  steady  deforesta- 
tion of  the  adjacent  hills.  30  M.  Goma  (629  ft.).  The  scenery 
becomes  wild  and  picturesque,  with  bits  that  recall  the  Aus- 
trian Tyrol ;  the  river  tears  its  impetuous  way  through  a  gorge 
between  bulky  hills,  and  on  the  slopes  of  these  st^d  many 
quaint  and  primitive  farmhouses,  whose  thatched  roofs  narrow 
to  sharp  ridges  which  are  straddled  by  half  a  score  tightly 
bound  frames  of  straw  or  wood  like  the  half  of  a  saw-horse. 
Strings  of  drying  persimmons  and  various  simples  hang  beneath 
the  eaves,  and  in  the  autumn  long  trusses  of  dried  rice-straw 
stretch  across  the  land.  Later  the  tree-trunks  serve  as  cores 
to  primitive  haycocks  and  look  like  fat  gin-bottles  standing  up- 
right in  the  fields.  —  Hills,  timnels,  and  bridges  are  features 
of  the  line  to  37  M.  Wachi.  The  cross-country  hiefaroad  is  ex- 
cellent for  motor-cars.  —  43  M.  Yamaga,  —  48  M.  Ayabe  Jet, 
(for  Osaka  and  way  stations).  The  rly.  leading  W.  is  the  Main 
Line  to  Matsue  and  Izumo-Imaichi  (Rte.  30,  p.  539). — 53  M. 
Umezako.  The  train  now  runs  toward  the  N.W.  and  soon 
enters  the  province  of  Tango. 

^  60  M.  Maizuru,  or  Maizuru  MmaJto.  (Katgan,  the  boat  sta- 
tion, is  at  the  water's  edge  2  M.  farther.)  Inn,  Furukatwe.-'^v 
¥2.50  to  ¥3.50.  The  town  (pop.  8000)  la  the  eteait  ol  ^^Toaaa^vssR 
province  (ch^njufu)  and  is  chj^rmingily  located  oii  XXi'fe  »exp«DSaa» 
shone  of  a  small  bay  locked  fast  in  the  embT8gce  ol  Yaji&i  J™- 
perennially  green  hills.   Certain  of  th^e  ate  «anxio>xa\«^  >^s5 


516    Al  19.      MAIZURU  TO  lOTAZU 

haltfiiw  €f  virked-looirnQg  giniB  employed  Id  the  national  de- 
ioMe.  TIk  entire  region  ronndahom^'inciiiding  the  Aneoal 
»d  Docb  of  Skm  ■mngn  (4  M.  to  the  £.  oo  a  headland 
dosed  to  the  poMic),  is  indoded  in  the  fortified  sme;  and 
akrtfhing.  photographing,  or  the  making  of  notes  is  attoMled 
by  aeriooB  conaequenceB,  Many  quaint  arched  Ixidges  span 
the  moltipGci^  of  eonTerging  canals  and  inipart  a  VenetiaD 
aspect  to  the  place.  The  several  Buddhist  temples  and  Skitiid 
rimnes  cdll  for  no  special  mention.  Before  the  Restoratkn 
MaizMru  was  known  as  TamMbe,  and  it  was  the  seat  of  the  licfa 
daimyd,  Makino-no-kami,  idiose  ndnous  castle  surmounts  the 
crest  of  one  of  the  near-by  hills.  Coasting-steamers  connect 
the  port  (frequent  senrioe)  with  Obama^  rmni^o,  and  other 
towns  on  the  Japan  Sea. 


Tlie  HiOHBOAD  TO  MiTAZU  trends  X.W.  (tora  left  from  tbe  itjr. 
and  go  tknxagh  the  town  to  the  b^y).  flanks  the  sea  for  a  abort  " 
affords  rhargijns  Tievs:  then,  *"!»*«■<[  inland,  it  ctoases  vcO-mhiTated  i 
fidda,  by  native  booses  in  wlucb  the  wbinins  of  primidve  ailk-ieels  it  baid 
frequently.  After  )  br.  tbe  rond  tams  abruptly  to  tbe  ri^t  and  simts  ibe 
base  of  a  bill  before  bending  again  to  tbe  left  to  a  (10  minT)  sanwnft  fna 
which  a  long,  winding  descent  is  made  into  the  lidi  raOey  of  the  ram  jit; 
fine  Tiewa.  At  tbe  bottom  a  wdMbeaten  path  branches  off  ileft>  iraa  ibe 
main  road  and  leads  (2  min.)  to  a  thick  otomp  of  bamboos 
the  broad,  placid,  green  Fara  Riwer.  A  k»d  halloo  brings  a 
boat  from  the  <H>po8ite  diaie;  and  in  5  min..  for  1  ten,  the 
near  a  smooth  ptke  which  flanks  the  river  until  it  merges  into  the 
Fioia  Tillage.  Hence  ooward  the  road  ia  broad  and  unnDStakafalc  IW 
▼alley  is  dsarming  and  very  prodoetiTe:  green  hiHs  flank  the  idet-donndiiiw 
on  both  sides, ^and  flame  with  maples,  roses,  camellias,  sosaiiA— a.  pexn* 
mcma.  mandarin-oranges,  and  the  crimson  leaves  of  the  vegetatih  m%t  vnt. 
Mai^  reed  fish-trafia  stand  in  the  river  (400  yds.  wide),  on  the  W.  mbt  d 
which  Yvro'dake  nses  to  a  height  of  21(13  ft.  and  serves  as  a  »*■■■*"■■■*  io 
sailors.  Boats  aseaid  the  rivo-  as  far  as  Fukueki-ifawta.  —  Fms  xiBa0t 
(Inn:  FasMdo-yo,  ¥2)  on  Ficra  ITaJi  (bay)  isaldsurdy  walkof  23n&.3nB 
Maixuru  and  is  one  of  the  several  birthplaees  of  Ura^imta,  the  ftdiBBhiy 
referred  to  at  p.  cclix.  The  lovely  eoast  makes  a  strong  appeal  to  oneTsjnsaoit 
sense,  but  travdeis  will  act  wisely  in  being  satisfied  with  a  vissoJ  ann^  d 


it,  and  in  beedini|  tbe  refwated  signs  of  warning  posted  by  tbe  Wan-  ^^QPKi- 
ment  —  admonitions  which  amNb^  also  to  AmanohtuhidaU  ani  waniiitf. 
1^  dean  Httle  rest-house,  at  the  li^t  of  the  road  just  as  one  csoen^ip^ 
lage,  is  a  good  place  to  eat  luncheon,  as  this  can  be  pieced  out  vao^  ^m  vt 
and  various  simple  native  dishes. 

Tbe  long  street  foHows  the  contour  of  the  diove.  within  aoond  -df  ^ifsb 
at  the  li^t.  Tlie  best  aooMcy  begsus  at  the  upper  end  of  the  — ^%gr  Soe 
the  road  winds  steadily  upward  round  the  sides  of  a  line  of  bold  prannnuns 
that  oome  qiodte  down  to  the  surging  wstest.  Their  rugged,  iiiaMJin  Ink 
imparts  a  decided  impresaiveness  to  the  region,  and  recalls  tKutain  sqhiA 
stretches  of  the  Itidian  eoast.  In  pfauses  a  granite  balustrade  ^Jmirifc  ^ 
causeway  from  the  sea,  and  from  this  high  vantage-point  the  iwmIimii  ijiiii  hiiiiiii 
down  on  the  rock-strewn  beach  where  the  surf  pounds  and  tiiiiniin  wdiL  « 
reverberating  roar.  Far  out  at  sea  are  ishuids,  aiid  white-sailed  JmilB.  and 
sealMrds  that  whed  and  akiri  and  fish  and  flash  their  broad  wiiW3&'thB&-au^ 
beams.  The  views  hereabout  are  the  best;  farther  along  they  aawmiat,  tat 
the  restless  ocean  and  the  high  mts.  (acmie  of  them  2000  n. 
none  of  their  grandiose  character.  At  each  turn  of  the  wim 
a(XDe  new  charm  or  pretty  opot  coiuea  vdXa  ^XMi^i3^  c€  "vvaion.^  siv 
ment  of  beauty  is  sodded  by  the  gracft^^JJ^  «»^^  \MiX«*Afc  \r — 
fleck  the  slopes  and  f orah  a  ttanAucesiX.  c\it\aMi  Y^^n^ 


the  water,   ftey  ktow  in  stonost  w«ry  w>u^v  ^,^^^ 
toward  cveiy  ansle,  but  thai  snaAeA  »»^  ^^^^^^  ^>aQii«. 


AMANOHASHroATT:         1^.  Bk.    537 

era,  incline  nearly  always  toward  the  calling  Bes.  At  oertain  places  on  the 
sanded  beach  they  stretch  wild  arms  out  over  delightful  little  coves  where 
men  land  from  boats,  build  camp-fires,  cook  fresUy  caught  fish,  and  uncon- 
sciously form  piratical  pictures  that  appeal  to  the  imaffunation.  The  granitic 
hills  produce  quantities  of  fine  felsite-porphyry  and  enliceous  red  sandstone, 
which  are  quarried  in  big  blocks,  moved  across  the  roadway  on  stout  skids, 
then  slid  down  to  waiting  junks  that  carry  them  to  distant  places. 

The  small  fishing-village  of  Kunda-mura,  with  a  stra^E^ng  main  st.  a 
half-mile  or  so  long,  is  entered  1  hr.  out  from  Yvra.  A  brisk  16  min.  ^ntelk, 
past  clean  little  yards  embowered  in  pomegranates,  mandarin-oranges,  and 
flowers,  brings  one  to  a  fork  in  the  road;  where,  instead  of  continuing  along 
the  shore,  one  tutus  up  at  the  left,  and  in  20  min.  reaches  a  long,  stone-lined, 
tubular  tunnel  piercing  the  simimit  of  the  ridge.  Soon  after  emerging  from 
this  a  glorious  picture  bursts  upon  the  sight;  a  vast  circle  of  high  and  splen- 
didly wooded  hills  cuts  the  sky-line  on  every  side  and  enfolds  in  its  green 
embrace  a  wide,  tree-dotted  valley  and  a  broad  idyllic  bay  flecked  with 
fishing-boats  and  mirroring  in  its  glassy  surface  all  the  color  of  the  hills  and 
sky.  Straight  ahead,  at  the  west,  on  a  narrow  little  plain  sloping  to  the 
water's  edge,  lies  a  string  of  sequestered  hamlets,  prominent  among  them 
Miyazu,  with  a  waterfront  almost  hidden  behind  a  forest  of  tall  ma^.  At 
the  far  right,  stretching  quite  across  the  bay  (Miycuu-^wan),  covered  with  a 
dark  mantle  of  evergreen  pines,  is  the  yellow  sand-spit  of  AmanohaBhidate. 
In  few  places  is  there  so  much  of  beauty,  tranquillity,  and  ostensible  con- 
tentment combined.  A  30  min.  leisurely  and  unforgettable  walk  down 
the  slope,  then  to  the  right,  brings  one  to  the  Seiki-ro,  at  the  water's 
edge,  and  another  10  min.  to  the  Araki-va  (called  also  Araki'a  Villa). 

Miyazu  (pop.  9000),  a  pretty  and  strikingly  picturesque 
fishing-village  m  a  crescent  of  the  shore  backed  by  lofty  hills, 
came  into  a  sort  of  prominence  in  1584  when  Hosokawa  Ta^ 
daoki  built  his  castle  here  and  dominated  the  region.  The  re- 
mains of  this  feudal  retreat  are  still  to  be  seen.  Under  the 
Tokugawas  it  was  successively  the  residence  of  the  Daimyo 
Kyogoku  (1600);  Nagai  (1669);  Abe  (1681);  Okudaira  (1697); 
Aoyama  (1717) ;  and  the  Honjo  (from  1758  to  1868) .  Its  temples 
and  shrines  are  mere  shadows  of  former  greatnes?  and  are  not 
worth  visiting.  The  open-air  fish-markets  held  daily  in  certain 
of  the  streets  are  of  unfailing  interest  in  their  displays  of  scores 
of  bizarre  forms  of  marine  hf e,  from  blanched,  repulsive  squid 
to  tiny,  jewel-like  piscine  forms.  Whales  are  caught  in  con- 
siderable numbers  off  the  outer  coast  and  are  sometimes  towed 
into  the  bay  to  be  dismembered.  Fishermen,  who  look  like 
Oriental  Robinson  Crusoes,  with  their  rice-straw  skirts  and 
otherwise  queer  costumes,  often  spread  very  long  and  narrow 
nets  near  the  shore  for  the  catching  of  a  myriad  tiny  minnows. 
The  great  quadrangular  sails  of  certain  of  the  fishing-boats 
are  made  of  finely  woven  matting,  and  they  form  beguiling  pic- 
tures as  they  drift  across  the  placid  waters  of  the  bay,  or  work 
out  to  sea  before  a  gentle  land  breeze. 

Amanohashidate,  a  tongue  of  land  varying  from  150  to 
250  ft.  wide,  about  If  M.  long,  and  covered  with  magnificent 
old  pine  trees  under  whose  giant  branches  extends  a  fine  salndy 
causeway,  cuts  the  Gvlf  of  Miyazu  lon^tudincJUl^  wcA  ^y'oS^ra 
it  into  halves;  the  sea  aide  retaining  the  name,  \\ie\XiTi«t  ^yuc^assn 
calJed  fwaiaki  no  MimUo,    This  tranquil  \«to,  ^^  '^ito^wt 
rendezvous  for  a  boat  of  sleek  wild  ducks,  la  c&K>ut  1\  ^.  ^^^^^ 


538    fife.  «9.         AMANOHASHIDATE 

E.  to  W.,  and  3  M.  from  N.  to  S.  with  a  depth  varying  from 
6  to  8  fathoms,  and  a  shallow  channefl  60  yds.  wide  connecting 
it  with  the  outer,  and  sometimes  rougher,  bay.  A  short  ferry 
plies  (in  3  min.;  fare,  1  sen)  to  and  fro  across  this  break  (near 
the  S.W.  end).  The  bay  proper  is  about  5  M.  long  and  from 
1600  to  2600  yds.  wide,  slightly  open  to  the  N.E.  The  entrance 
is  between  the  points  known  locally  as  Kuro  Sahi  (a  conical 
peak  670  ft.  high)  and  Hioki  ScSd.  The  encircling  range 
of  mts.,  some  upward  of  a  thousand  ft.  high,  protect  it  from 
all  winds  and  make  of  it  an  ideal  harbor  with  from  10  to  12 
fathoms  of  water.  The  river  which  runs  through  Miyazu 
town  and  empties  into  the  bay  is  the  Hachimaivrgaioa. 

To  reach  Amanohashidate  we  proceed  through  the  town 
and  follow  the  trend  of  the  beach  to  the  entrance  of  the  Momu 
Temple  f  in  Monju  village  near  the  ferry  (toatashi);  here  the 
road  branches  to  the  right  and  leads  down  to  the  water.  At 
the  far  end  of  the  pine-clad  strip  the  trees  thin  out;  bv  follow- 
ing the  left  branch  of  the  road  leading  past  Ejiri  village,  one 
soon  reaches  a  small  shrine  with  a  new  monument  commemo- 
rating the  soldiers  from  this  district  who  died  in  the  Russo- 
Japan  War.  Two  min.  Qeft)  beyond  this  a  broad  lane  leads 
to  the  right  to  another  (3  min.)  shrine,  from  the  rear  of  which 
the  road  goes  up  the  hill  (10  min.)  to  Kasamatsu,  where 
there  is  a  platform  whence  a  comprehensive  view  can  be  had 
of  the  surrounding  country.  The  Japanese,  who  from  time 
immemorial  have  greatly  admired  this  place,  and  who  ascribe 
to  it  a  refinement  of  beauty  which  Westerners  sometimes  fail 
to  detect,  love  to  view  it  hence  by  bending  down,  with  head 
inverted  an^  eyes  looking  out  from  between  their  outspread 
legs.  This  crazy  and  undignified  position  gives  to  the  scene 
the  appearance  of  an  unstable  inferior  and  superior  mirage, 
and  for  Occidentals  robs  it  of  its  charm.  The  full  beauty  of 
the  place  will  be  revealed  to  whosoever  proceeds  30  min. 
farther  up  the  hill  to  the  old  temple  near  the  summit  of 
Nariai-yamaj  near  the  Ochihi  Pass,  This  once  formed  the 
nucleus  of  a  cluster  of  temples  that  bore  a  reputation  for 
sacredness  something  like  that  of  Koya-san.  The  view  hence 
is  fine  and  far-reaching;  the  Japan  Sea,  the  distant  islands  of 
Oshima  and  Kojimay  many  smaller  ones  and  scores  of  mts. 
are  visible.  From  this  exalted  place,  the  distance  which  is 
supposed  to  lend  enchantment  enwraps  Amanohashidatej 
and  clothes  it  with  added  grace.  Its  name,  Amct-no-JiaskidcUef 
is  said  to  be  derived  from  the  original  Chinese  Ten-kyOf  or 
'Celestial  Bridge,'  poeticallv  applied  to  it  because  of  ite  fan- 
cied similarity  to  the  legendary  Arrusrno--Uhi^hashi,  or  'Float- 
ing  Biidf^  of  Heaven/  on  Whidi  the  mythological  Izanagi 
and  Izanami  stood  when  tlaey  \^\.  ^«^  Vcoo^  ^^  "Cy^  ^1  tiieir 
jeweled  spears  the  drops  ol  OceaJX  >DTvaft  VXsa-X.  «FJa^^^\xi\R 
^e  Japanese  islands. 


KYOTO  TO  KIZUKI     50.  RouU.    539 

30.  From  Kyoto  vit  Yonago  (Sakai  and  The  Old  Islands), 
Matsue,  and  Izumo-Imaichi  to  Kizuki  (Shrines  of  Izumo). 

San-in  Main  Line  of  the  Imperial  Goyenunent  Railways. 

234  M.  Izumo'lmaichi  (several  trains  daily  in  about  12  hrs. ;  faie.  ¥6.98, 
1st  cl.,  ¥4.19,  2d),  the  station  whence  trains  run  over  the  branch  (Opashiro^ 
or  Great  Shint5  Shrine  Line)  to  4  M.  Kizuki  (with  its  Izumo  shnnes),  is 
usually  the  objective  point  of  foreign  travelers  to  this  region.   The  line  in 

§>art  is  the  S. W.  prolongation  of  the  West  Coast  Route  described  in  Rte. 
2,  and  is  an  important  fink  in  the  extensive  coastal  system  that  eventually 
will  connect  Akita  at  the  N.  to  Shimonoaeki  at  the  S.  It  is  slill  in  process  of 
building,  the  railhead  being  near  247  M.  Oda;  it  is  expected  to  reach  264  M. 
Omori.ia  1916;  282  M.  Gonotsu  in  1917;  and  hence  to  294  M.  Hamada  in 
1918.  According  to  the  Railway  Budget  two  or  more  additiontU  years  must 
elapse  before  it  Mrill  be  completed  to  Shimonoseki.   Between  Kydto  and  the 

f)re8ent  terminus  the  line  traverses  the  provinces  of  Settsu,  Tajima,  and  the 
ittle  traveled  fby  tourists)  West  Coast  regions  of  Inaba,  Hdki,  and  Isimio. 
The  remote  and  mountainous  provinces  of  Iwami  and  Nagato  will  be  crossed 
en  route  to  Shimonoseki  Strait.  The  present  extension  was  begun  in  1900, 
and  13  yrs.  and  nearly  30  million  yen  have  thus  far  been  expended.  The 
Kinoaaki-  Hamasaka  section  was  exceptionally  difficult  and  was  not  opened 
to  traffic  until  1912.  There  are  upward  of  70  tunnels,  and  230  large  and  352 
small  bridges,  with  numerous  costly  embankments  and  outs.  The  region 
traversed  is  far  from  the  beaten  track  of  travel  and  is  one  of  the  most  interest- 
ing and  beautiful  in  Japan.  Many  of  the  people  five  in  a  state  of  unblem- 
ished, patriarchal  simpkcity,  in  a  re^on  where  Old  Japan  is  still  supreme  and 
the  nervous  hand  of  progress  has  failed  to  blight  or  tarnish  it.  The  scenery 
along  the  line  (best  views  from  the  right  side  of  the  train)  after  passing  Kin- 
osaki  is  charming,  with  ravishing  views  of  mts.  and  plains  and  the  silent 
Japan  Sea.  The  deep  winter  snows  which  prevail  in  Izumo  have  necessitated 
many  snow-sheds  —  which  remind  one  of  travel  on  the  picturesque  Cana- 
dian Pacific  Railway.  Good  bento  is  sold  (25  sen)  at  the  j^rincipal  stations. 
Southbound  travelers  who  may  have  completed  their  inspection  of  the 
Kyoto  and  Kobe  neighborhood  can  vary  the  return  trip,  and  save  time  and 
money,  by  leaving  the  main  line  at  Wadayama  and  proceeding  E.  over  the 
Wadayama- Himeji  section  (described  hereinafter)  of  the  Bantan  Line  to 
Himeji,  a  station  on  the  main  line  between  Kobe  and  Shimonoseki  (Rte. 
38).  Sakai  is  the  point  of  departure  for  the  historic  and  primitive  Oki  7»- 
lands.  By  boarding  an  early  morning  train  at  Kydto<  Nijo  StcUum)  one  may 
descend  at  the  attractive  old  Isumo  city  of  McUsue,  pass  the  night  there  in 
an  excellent  inn,  inspect  the  quaint  old  castle,  and  proceed  leisurely  to 
Izumo-Imaichi  and  Kizuki  the  following  morning. 

The  rly.  line  from  Kyoto  to  48  M.  Ayabe  Jet,  (starting-point 
for  Shin-Maizuru)  is  described  in  Rte,  29,  p.  536.  Beyond,  the 
train  runs  through  a  pretty,  mountainovis  ooimtry  to  56  M. 
Fukuchiyama  Jet,  (for  Osaka  City),  thence  on  throudi  the  hills 
and  past  a  number  of  uninteresting  villages  to  75  M.  Wada- 
yama Jet. y  where  the  San-yo  Line  comes  in  from  Himeji,  at  the 
E.  Here  our  line  turns  abruptly  to  the  N-  and  goes  through  a 
thinly  settled,  unresponsive  region,  ifi  the  Japan  Sea,  25  M. 
distant.  The  traversing  pike  would  be  excellent  for  automobiles 
were  it  not  that  the  bridges  are  deceptively  frail  and  are  sub- 
ject to  the  violent  and  sudden  caprices  of  tjie  shallow  but  often- 
times treacherous  rivers  which  first  irrigate,  then  drain,  the  coun- 
try. Bulky  mts.  that  are  snow-streaked  until  laAjfc  s^tva%j^\^ 
and  deep  valleys  indiSerently  cultivated  by  tbe  poat\iM\.  \TA>aar 
tn'ous  peasantry,  and  occasional  pretty  viatias  axe  >)t^ft  «aJaKoX» 
features  of  tberegion.   The  numeroiia  traii^  'wYuciYxeXaxi'^^xi^^ 


540    R&iOe  30.      KYOTO  TO  KIZUEI  KimsakL 

fltdings  are  usually  crammed  to  bursting  with  happy,  ensign- 
bearing  pilgrims  bound  to  or  from  the  Izumo  shrines.  At  99  M. 
the  sea  ana  Kinosaki  with  its  hot  springs  and  locally  celebrated 
shrines  are  reached.  Here  the  line  tiuns  sharply  to  the  left  and 
runs  its  ultimate  course  N.  along  the  coast  through  the  maritime 
provinces  of  Tajimay  Inaba^  Hokij  and  Izumo;  the  scenery 
soon  becomes  wild  and  strikingly  picturesque.   Many  tunnek 

Eierce  the  hills  that  come  down  to  the  sea  to  be  rent  and  torn 
y  the  restless  surf;  in  the  ^een  valleys  that  gash  them  nestle 
tiny  fishing-hamlets  as  primitive  as  though  they  were  ten 
thousand,  instead  of  one  hundred,  miles  from  civilization. 
Beyond  115  M.  Yoroi  the  train  emei^es  from  a  long  tunnel  and 
runs  out  on  the  spider-like  Amarube  Bridge  (1015  ft.  long; 
cost  330,000  yen)  flung  boldly  across  a  deep  gorge  in  the  cleft 
of  which,  125  ft.  directly  below,  lies  the  village  of  the  same 
name;  the  sea  view  over  and  beyond  it  is  entrancing,  and  the 
bit  of  scenery  is  regarded  as  one  of  the  finest  on  the  line.  For 
miles  the  train  traverses  an  uneven  country  of  mts.,  plains, 
and  tree-dotted  cliffs  flecked  with  hamlets  overloolang  the 
isea.  When  the  water  is  calm  and  reflects  the  lapis-lazuU  sky, 
the  white-sailed  junks,  the  skirling  sea-gulls,  and  the  fantastic 
pines  that  seem  to  exchange  tra^c  conferences  with  their 
distorted  images  on  the  mirror-Uke  surface,  the  views  are 
adorable,  and  they  recall  certain  matchless  stretches  of  t^e 
Inland  Sea  on  the  Pacific  side  of  the  island.  Miles  of  the 
shingly  beach  are  fringed  with  grotesque  pines  around  the 
feet  of  which  the  restless  sand  plays  ceaselessly,  and  toward 
which  the  ground-swell  reaches  vainly  before  breaking  into 
foam  and  into  long,  bubbling,. glass-like  sheets.  The  stones 
which  hold  the  roofs  of  many  of  the  tiny  dwellings  in  place 
advertise  the  prevalence  in  winter  of  strong  north  winds. 

138  M.  Tottori  (Inn :  Kozeniyay  ¥  2) ,  capital  of  Inaba  Province 
and  of  Tottori-ken,  with  32,600  inhabs.,  and  6400  houses, 
possesses  the  ruins  of  a  castle  built  by  Yamana  Masamichi 
about  the  middle  of  the  16th  cent.    Beyond  the  town  the 
Chiyo  River  runs  down  to  the  sea  across  a  plain  marked  by 
sand-dunes  and  low  hills  at  the  E.  The  small  lake  at  the  right 
is  Koyama-4ke,  Eighteen  tunnels  pierce  the  hills  which  inter- 
vene before  159  M.  Matsuzaki.   The  big  lagoon  at  the  right, 
called  Tdgo^kcj  is  girdled  with  picturesquely  situated  bath- 
ing resorts.  Curious  features  of  the  lake  (which  is  drained  by 
the  Hashizur-gawa)  are  the  numerous  (iron)  mineral  springs 
that  spout  up  from  the  bed  and  supply  the  hot  water  pip^ 
into  the  bathrooms  of  the  numerous  inns.  The  resulting  hy- 
droxid  coloring  matter  is  employed  to  dye  clothing,  etc.   The 
Ssb  which  swarm  in  the  lake  and  which  are  caught  in  big 
Bcoop-heta  appear  to  enjoy  boVKt^ieYieaX.  aiAVJcv^TDMkKwl  «alt8. 
Beyond  163  M.  Kurayoshi  (J.im;T<yyo-tefi;^^>)\5ftfc  ^^"^ 
fattens  6ut  and   the  volcanic  peak  ol  Baxseu.^x  O-Xoxwi. 


Ohil stands.  KYOTO  TO  EIZUKI     SO.  RouU.    541 

C  Great  Mt.'),  the  local  Fuji  (6000  f  t.)i  is  descried  peering  above 
the  horizon  at  the  far  left. 

Daisen  (Called  the  Fujioflzumo  despite  the  fact  that  it  is  in  Hdki  and  not 
Imimo  Province)  is  regarded  by  the  credulous  as  the  dwelling  of  the  primeval 
Skint  6  god  Okuninttahi,  and  because  of  this  it  is  the  most  revered  of  all  the 
West  Coast  mts.  Usually  snow-covered  and  enshrouded  in  clinging  mists, 
it  is  a  sublime  spectacle  viewed  at  certain  times  and  from  certain  angles,-  but 
good  views  of  it  are  obtainable  only  when  the  air  is  unusually  pure.  Many 
marvelous  legends  concerning  the  hobgoblins  who  are  beheved  to  dwell 
thereon  are  related  by  the  country  yokels,  and  supernatural  events  are 
associated  with  it.  Formerly  it  was  a  sort  of  western  K6ya-aan,  with  many 
temples  clustering  about  the  opginid  one  founded  in  718  by  Jikaku-Daisht, 
Though  it  never  reached  the  high  religious  position  occupied  by  the  former 
place,  it  was  popular  and  nationally  famous  about  the  14th  cent.,  siter  which 
its  power  began  to  decline.  To-day  there  remain  but  one  or  two  dilapidated 
temples  that  are  a  negligible  quantity  in  the  Buddhistic  world.  A  few  seal- 
ous  pilgrims  climb  the  mt.  each  year,  but  foreigners  will  not  feel  repaid  for  so 
doing.  A  much  better  view  is  had  of  the  peak  from  Daiaen  Statton^  where 
it  is  relatively  as  near  as  Fuji  is  to  Ootemba,  with  similar  views. 

195  M.  Yonago  (Inn:  KomegOj  ¥2-3),  an  important  town 
in  Hold  Province,  with  16,000  inhabs.,  is  finely  situated  on 
the  Naka-umi  Lagoon  and  is  the  starting-point  for  (11  M.) 
Sctkaif  the  odoriferous  old  port  at  the  N. W .  extremity  of  the 
Yomigahcmia  Peninsvla,  and  the  end  of  the  line  of  the  YonagO' 
Sakai  branch  of  the  rly.  Forty-four  miles  N.,  in  the  Sea  of 
Japan,  lie  the  1  large  and  3  small  Old  ('open  sea')  Islands. 

The  Oki  Islands  (pop.  35,000)  are  administered  as  a  part  of  Shimane-ken, 
and  lie  in  lat.  36*  l(r  N.  and  in  long.  133**  20'  E.  of  Greenwich.  They  were 
long  known  to  the  Chinese  as  Inshtt.  Physically  they  are  divided  into  two 
groups.  Oki,  the  big  island  (often  referred  to  as  Dooo),  where  stands  SaigOt 
the  capital,  and  (6  M.  toward  the  S.W.)  Dozen,  which  comprises  the  small 
islands  of  Chiburi-ahima  (1058  ft.  above  the  sea);  Niahinoahima  (1463  ft.), 
and  Nakanaahima  (755  ft.).  The  highest  point,  Daimanji  (2030  ft.),  is  on 
the  E.  side  of  Oki.  The  coast  is  wild  and  beautiful,  but  the  islands  are  rocky 
and  cultivation  is  not  easy.  The  Isumo  dialect  is  used  by  the  people.  The 
Emperor  Go-Toba  was  exiled  to  Nakanoahima  by  H6j6  YoahUoki,  the  mili- 
tary usurper,  in  1221,  and  Go-Daigo  was  sent  to  Chiburi-ahima  by  H6j6 
TakcUoki  in  1332.  The  archipelago  is  rarely  visited  by  foreigners.  Poky 
little  local  steamers  make  the  (44  M.)  passage  daily  (in  about  5  hrs.)  from 
Scikai  to  Saigo,  stopping  at  ports  in  the  several  islands.  The  trip  in  stormy 
weather  is  dangerous  in  a  small  boat.  Tourists  will  find  nothing  of  interest 
in  Saigd,  which  stands  on  the  W.  side  of  Saigd  Harbor,  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Yahi  River.  The  bay  is  landlocked,  with  an  entrance  250  yds.  wide  and  a 
depth  of  12-25  fathoms.  Fishing  is  the  chief  industry,  and  the  local  specialty 
imeibutau)  is  dried  cuttle-fish  {ika)  or  sepia,  which  is  netted  here  in  great 
numbers.  Thousands  of  tons  are  caught  each  year  and  exported  to  Korea 
and  China.  ()n  the  N.  E.  coast  of  Saigd  fishermen  sometimes  capture  upward 
of  2000  cuttle-fish  (12  in.  or  more  lon^)  in  a  single  night.  Many  hundreds 
of  .acres  of  island  land  are  fertilized  with  the  offal.  Another  specialty  is  a 
species  of  obsidian  or  jet  called  bateiaeki  ('horse-hoof  stone*),  of  which  many 
small  objects  —  jewelry,  ink-stones,  wine-cups,  and  what-not  —  are  made. 
A  black  coral  or  antipathes  (umimcUau)  or  sea-pine  is  f  oimd  in  the  sea  near 
the  coast  and  made  into  expensive  souvenirs.  Maiiy  of  the  stores  in  Saigi 
carry  extensive  collections  of  articles  made  of  nacre  obtained  from  the  shelU 
of  the  sea-ear  (awabi). 

The  sea,  which  makes  in  round  the  FomigaKama  Pemusuln.^ 
forms  the  Nakami  Lagoon^  and  the  narrow  Motouie  Rwer  -^Xasax 
connects  it  with  the  Shinji-ko  Qake)  on  wYAc^  Mail»uA\a  w^ 
uated,  adds  a  striking  element  of  beauty  to  tibftxe©©^  \3bacD\»«^ 


542    Route  SO.     KYOTO  TO  KIZTJEI  Motsm. 

which  the  rly .  goes  beyond  Yonago.  The  sheltered  wateis  teem 
with  fish,  and  usually  are  dotted  with  many  picturesque  boats, 
which  after  nightfall  carry  flaming  torches  to  aid  the  men  at 
their  work.  The  country  soon  takes  on  a  more  fruitful  aspect, 
many  fluvid  thoroughfares  cross  the  rly.,  and  crude  dugK)uts, 
such  as  one  sees  in  and  about  the  Chinamvas  in  the  V^ey  of 
Mexico,  follow  their  tortuous  courses  inland.  Not  a  few  of  the 
rly.  stations  are  embowered  in  plum,  peach,  and  cherry  trees, 
and  magnolias,  camellias  and  other  flowers,  while  in  season  the 
creamy  olooms  of  many  pear  orchards  add  charm  to  the  land- 
scape. The  well-watered  country  is  as  intensively  cultivated  as 
a  small  garden,  aad  excellent  macadam  highways  cross  and  re- 
cross  it.  The  shore  is  much  like  that  of  the  Inland  Sea,  with 
pine-clad  promontories  and  hazy  bays  that  are  at  once  beauti- 
ful and  suggestive  of  a  pleasing  tranquillity.  The  strikin^y 
picturesque  old  Matsue  Castle  is  visible  above  the  tree-tops  at 
the  far  n^ht  as  we  near  the  city,  and  the  swift  waters  of  the 
Matsue  River  flow  by  nearer  to  the  rly. 

213  M.  Matsue,  the  clean,  handsome  capital  of  Shimane 
Prefecture,  with  36,000  inhabs.  and  8333  houses,  occupies  a 
commanding  position  on  the  N.E,  shore  of  the  extensive 
Shinji  Lake  (4  M.  broad,  11  long,  and  20  ft.  deep),  near  the 
point  where  two  rivers  lead  into  it  —  the  northernmost,  the 
Matsue,  or  Chaahigawa;  iiie  southernmost,  the  Tenjin-gawa, 

Arrival.  Of  the  several  inns  (comp.  p.  xxxiv)  the  traveler  will  perhaps  select 
the  plain  but  clean  Minami-kwan,  across  the  Tenjin-gawa,  10  min.  from  the 
station  by  jinriki  (15  sen),  near  the  center  of  the  city.  He  will  also  perhaps 
select  an  apartment  overlooking  the  river  (to  which  the  inn  backs  up),  as 
the  many  bizarre  craft  which  ply  to  and  fro  add  appreciably  to  its  charm 
and  afford  sustained  entertainment.  For  ¥3  or  thereabout,  according  to 
location  of  room,  one  is  served  excellent  food  cooked  unusually  well  and 
appetinngly  (in  the  native  style),  and  set  out  in  blue-and- white  porcelain 
(from  Kaga  Province)  of  such  dainty  and  charming  designs  that  one  ia 
tempted  to  start  out  at  once  and  ransack  (in  vain)  the  city  shops  to  find 
dupucates. 

Formerly  Matsue  was  a  feudal  stronghold,  the  military  center  of  the  most 
ancient  province  in  Japan,  and  such  a  large  percentage  of  the  men  were 
aamurai  that  certain  blasts  from  a  bugle  were  said  to  be  sufficient  to  bring 
nearly  15,000  men  in  fighting  trim  out  of  the  houses  and  into  the  streets.  At 
present  the  busiest  quarter  is  near  the  inn,  between  the  Tenjin  and  Ohaahi 
Kivers,  in  the  vicinity  of  the  wide  street  called  Tenjinmaehi.  Here  will  be 
found  the  best  shops,  theaters,  pleasure  resorts,  etc.  A  pleasing  feature  of 
the  wide,  clean  streets  is  the  vista  of  green,  wooded  hills  at  the  ends  of  most 
of  them.  A  multiplicity  of  canals  intersect  them  and  one  may  go  by  boat  to 
almost  any  quarter.  Many  of  the  temples  face  Teramachi,  or  Temple  St 
"5th( 


Ae^a  rule  thes6  differ  but  little  from  those  of  other  cities,  and  the  casual  trav- 
eler ibay  not  feel  repaid  for  visiting  them.  The  huge  Toko-ji  belongs  to  the 
Zen  sect,  and  the  booming  notes  of  its  great  bell  shake  the  entire  city.  The 


eler  ibay  not  feel  repaid  for  visiting  them.  The  huge  Toko-ji  belongs  to^he 

"  g  notes  of  1 
Inari  shrine  is  in  the  castle  grounds.   The  lofty  mt.  which  looms  up  at  the 


N.W.  is  YaJeuno-san.  Daiaen  is  seen  at  the  S.E.  The  fussy-  little  boats  which 
start  from  the  pier  at  the  N.  end  of  the  bridge  ply  to  various  near-by  ports. 

The  Castle  (0-Sfciro),  anVtoor^aiY  structure  surmounting 
a  oyciopean  foundation  oi  alotie  \rQ\i^\^\>^  x^WjecvB^,  ^\ns3GLtr 
leaa,  moss-grown  waUs  that  to^  ^^  ^  V^-yja-Oo.^^  \bs«wV 
occupies  a  commandmg  site  on  tJoie.  «vimmv^  c.1  0.^\cwt««mwl 


Izumo  Shfinea.        EYOTO  TO  EIZUKI     SO.  ^Rotde.    543 

('castle  hinO  in  the  W.  quarter  of  the  city,  5  min.  (jinrild 
10  sen)  from  the  inn,  and  15  min.  from  the  station.  While  not 
so  imposing  or  well  preserved  as  the  Nagoya  Castle,  its  en- 
vironment and  the  many* pine,  plum,  and  cherry  trees  which 
adorn  the  sloping  terraces  add  materially  to  its  appearance. 
It  is  a  grim  old  structure,  and  it  dates  from  1601,  when  Horio 
Yoshiharu  built  it  as  a  fortress  and  a  home  for  the  long  dy- 
nasty of  feudal  barons  that  were  to  follow  him.  The  summit 
is  crested  like  a  war  helmet,  and  there  are  many  gables  and 
angles  and  antefixes  and  squat  windows.  From  the  upper 
terrace,  which  is  embowered  in  cherry  trees,  or  still  better 
from  the  topmost  of  the  six  stories,  one  may  conmiand  a  superb 
view  over  the  city,  the  lake,  and  the  surrounding  hills  and 
plain.  The  winding  road  which  leads  up  to  the  relic  is  lovely  in 
spring,  and  the  numerous  crows  that  wrangle  and  roost  in 
the  near-by  pines  make  one  think  of  towns  in  British  India. 
A  number  of  gov't  buildings  cluster  near  the  foot  of  the  hill, 
among  them  the  prefectural  office  and  the  Middle  School 
(Jinjo-^hugakko),  where  Lafcadio  Heam  came  to  teach  Eng- 
lish in  Aug.,  1890. 

Westward  from  Matsue  the  rly.  follows  the  lake  shore 
and  traverses  a  pretty  countrv  where  a  number  of  ancient 
dolmens  or  sepulchers  have  been  unearthed  from  time  to 
time.  234  M.  Izwno-Imaichi  is  the  point  of  departure  for  a 
branch  line  that  runs  N.W.  to  4  M.  Kitvkiy  with  its  greatly 
reverenced  shrines.  Buddhists  and  ShintOists  alike  regard 
it  as  one  of  the  holiest  cities  in  the  Land  of  the  Gods,  but 
foreigners  are  apt  to  find  but  little  of  absorbing  interest. 
There  are  a  number  of  native  inns,  most  of  them  catering 
to  the  hordes  of  pilgrims  which  come  here  to  make  their  peace 
with  the  deities. 

The  Great  Shrine,  or  Izumo  no  O'yashiro^  the  most  virile  existing  center 
of  the  national  religion,  with  a  reputation  for  sanctity  equalled  only  by  the 
Shrinesjof  lae  (Rte.  35),  is  dedicated  to  the  mjrthologfeal  god  Oktminuahi  no 
kami  {Onamuji),  the  reputed  son  of  *  Suaano-o-Mikoto^  and  dates  from  an 
antiquity  so  great  that  it  is  regarded  by  the  natives  as  the  oldest  living 
shrine  of  the  ancestral  cult.  Many  believe  that  it  was  built  by  the  lesser 
gods  at  the  instigation  of  the  Sun  Goddess;  that  the  original  structure  was 
320  ft.  high,  of  beams  and  pillars  larger  than  any  existing  trees  could  furnish; 
and  that  the  framework  was  bound  together  with  fibers  of  the  paper-mul- 
berry tree.  The  priests  believe  that  it  was  rebuilt  in  B.C.  70,  dunng  the  life 
of  the  Emperor  Suirnin^  and  that  it  was  called  the  'Structure  of  the  Iron 
Rings'  because  the  pieces  of  tiie  pillars  —  composed  of  the  wood  of  many 
great  trees  —  had  been  bound  fast  together  with  huge  rings  of  iron.  The 
configuration  of  the  present  temple  (which  dates  from  1881  and  is  about 
80  ft.  high)  is  supposed  to  be  estactly  like  that  of  the  3d  one  oonstruoted 
about  A.D.  655,  and  to  represent  the  29th  of  the  dynasty.  .Fashioned  in  the 
severely  plain  and  pure  Shintd  style,  it  occupies  a  commanding  position  at 
the  foot  of  the  finely  wooded  Mt.  YaJmmo,  in  a  park-like  inolosure  of  19  SAtesu 
The  approach  is  through  a  b^tutiful  and  impTetaivd  «v«iiVA-  «Xmal\.\'^^ 
long,  flanked  by  grand  patriaroiud  trees  a  thouBand  or  moxe  -yt^*  c\^,  «3D&\a(9- 
aaored  groves  at  the  light  and  left.    There  is  the  ususCL  sAOQiGa'Doxcaiicsn^,^ 


m^eaUc  iorii,  Jantema,  and  the  like,  with  a  lofty  gat©  i^«tcasi&  «.  — -r    ^:w- 
mU/.  Beneath  thia  gateway,  at  the  end  of  the  avo.,  ihor©  v«^to<»  »^  ^»«i 


546    RaideSS.  TSURUGA  VladimMi. 

gorges  into  the  province  of  Echizen,  crossing  an-  uncomdy 
country  watered  by  several  mt.  streams  before  it  readies 
30  M.  Tsuruga  {sofHroong^-ah),  a  growing  town  (pop.  18,000) 
at  the  sea-level. 

Tsuruga  town  stands  about  |  M.  to  the  left  of  the  station 
(jinriki,  10  sen;  to  the  steamer  landing,  20  sen;  25  min.  walk) 
at  the  E.  head  of  a  wide  bay  into  which  two  shallow  streams 
empty.  The  Kvmagae  Hotel  (near  the  center  of  the  town) 
has  foreign  beds;  rates  from  ¥4  and  upward,  Am.  pi.;  meals, 
¥1  each;  native  style  from  ¥2  per  day.  Tsuruga  Hotels  same 
rates.  Runners  meet  trains.  —  The  narbor  (about  6  M.  N. 
and  S.  with  an  average  breadth  of  about  2  M.,  tapering 
toward  the  head)  is  one  of  the  best  on  the  West  Coast,  from 
which  circumstance  it  is  much  frequented  by  trading-junks 
and  other  craft.  It  is  unprotected  from  the  N.  winds,  which 
blow  strongly  and  almost  ceaselessly  during  the  winter,  and 
render  the  town  cold  and  disagreeable.  Ships  find  it  difficult 
to  approach  the  shore  in  rough  weather,  and  when  they  stop 
outside,  launches  or  sampans  must  be  employed.  Extensive 
harbor  works,  which  include  docks  and  breakwaters,  are  under 
way.  Several  pretty  temples  and  shrines  occupy  commanding 
positions  on  tne  mils  at  the  right,  conspicuous  among  them 
the  Kanagasakirjinskaf  hard  by  the  attractive  Kamomegctsaki 
Park  (5  min.  walk  from  the  landing).  Within  f  M.  at  the  Irft, 
near  the  base  of  a  well-wooded  mt.,  is  the  handsome  Maisu- 
hara  ('pine  forest')  Park,  Both  shores  of  the  bay  rise  abruptly 
from  the  sea  {Nosaka-yamay  at  the  S.  is  2786  ft.  high),  and 
a  number  of  popular  and  sheltered  bathing-resorts  snuggle  in 
the  coves.  Joguy  with  a  small  shrine,  is  2  M.  to  the  N.W. 
The  region  roundabout  is  historic.  Legend  says  that  the 
first  Koreans  to  land  in  Japan  came  here  during  the  reign  of 
the  Emperor  Sujm  (b.c.  97-33),  and  because  they  wore 
head-dresses  of  horns  the  place  was  called  Tsunoga,  Many 
of  the  nursery  lullabies  and  tales  popular  throughout  Japan 
had  their  oriein  hereabout.  The  old  castle  that  once  occupied 
the  summit  (150  ft.)  of  Kanagasahi  was  erected  in  the  14th 
cent,  and  was  the  scene  (in  1337)  of  a  furious  battle  between 
Nitta  Yqshisada  and  the  minions  of  Ashikaga  Takavji,  Oda 
Nobunaga  sacked  and  destroyed  the  place  in  1573.  At  the 
time  of  the  Restoration  it  was  the  home  of  the  Tokugawa 
daimyo,  Sakai, 


Steamships  of  the  Osaka  Shoaen  Kaxaha  (Agency:  Owada  ShoUn,  the 
Bund)  ply  regularly  (popular  with  all  classes;  English  spoken)  to  (492  M. 


*32._  ,-,__ _, .         , 

cubic  feet.  Per  package  from  eihip  to  &\iOT^  Vt«^-cA.^^^  porters  wearing  the 
oompany's  badge),  15  sen.  Launch  and  «^ftanx«t-«Ei«a:^  Vwfc  \*i  v««MiQ«arB. 
4t    Vladivo9iok  (guidebook  in  Ena^Yi  ix^  on  ^.w^v^^J^ao;^  ^ft  *»=i  ^  -^ 
Osaka  Sham  Kaiaha  agmU)  ibe  ateMaexa  ^o  ^^^^^^^^SSST^SS^ 
Bib-siany  (wharf)  and  wbder  a  tTanalw  uMi^^e«»^tv . — -^^^^  Uu%«««.  N  <9mk. 


Fukm.  HAKUSAN  32.  Route.    547 

teer  Fleet,  bi-weekly  steamers;  Ist  d..  ¥40;  2d  cl.  ¥20.  Meager  food.  The 
traveler  should  be  on  his  guaid  constantly  afl;ain8t  extras  and  impoflitions, 
and  should  take  nothuig  for  granted.  Even  *  invitations'  from  the  captain 
are  apt  to  be  inserted  in  ihe  bilL  Meals  taken  on  board  b^ore  ihe  ship  starts 
are  charged  for.  As  a  rule  tips  must  be  forthcoming  before  the  seamen  will 
touch  baggage  in  the  hcdd,  uid  if  this  is  not  looked  after  sharply  it  may  be 
left.  Unattended  ladies  traveling  with  children  will  find  the  ships  of  the 
OecUca  Shoaen  Kaiaha  preferable  in  many  ways. 

From  Tsuruga  the  train  climbs  at  once  into  the  hills  and 
threads  a  number  of  tunnels  before  reaching  the  (3919  ft. 
long)  Yamanaka  Tunnel^  1005  ft.  above  the  sea.  The  stations 
are  small  and  uninteresting.  At  47  M.  Imaj6  (617  ft.)  the 
plain  broadens  and  slopes  to  68  M.  Fukui  (131  ft.),  a  thriv- 
ing city  (Inn:  Nawaya,  ¥2-3.60)  with  60,4()0  inhabs.  in  the 
prefecture  of  the  same  name.  Tliough  of  but  scant  interest 
to  foreigners  Fvkui  is  of  historic  moment  to  the  Japanese;  the 
ruinous  old  castle  dates  from  the  16th  cent,  and  was  for  many 
years  the  home  of  the  powerful  Echizen-ket  or  Matsudaira 
family  (an  offshoot  of  the  Maeda).  The  Tokugawa  shogurif 
leyasuy  established  his  son  YtLhi  Hideyasu  here  in  1601,  and 
his  son  Tadanao  changed  the  name  of  the  town  from  Kiia-no- 
sko  to  the  present  Fukui.  The  fine  silk  called  habutae,  and 
the  handkerchiefs  made  from  it,  rank  high  among  the  manu- 
factured products.  Broad  fruit  orchards  stud  the  environs. 
The  river  is  the  Asuvxi.  —  87  M.  Daishqji  (Inn:  Yatayaf 
¥2-3),  an  ancient  castle  town  (pop.  11,000)  in  Kaga  Province 
near  the  Echizen  line,  produces  considerable  tea  and  is  one  of 
the  points  of  departure  for  the  (3}  M.  by  tram  to  the  S.E.) 
Yamashiro  Hot  Springs,  in  a  region  where  there  are  many 
porcelain  kilns  and  where  much  of  the  famous  Kutani  porce- 
lain-ware (comp.  p.  cclvii)  is  made.  There  are  a  number  of  inns 
(Ara-ya,  etc.  from  ¥2.50)  in  the  native  style.  Some  3.M. 
distant,  reached  also  by  tram,  is  the  much-frequented  Yama- 
naka Spa  (several  native  inns)  in  the  •  midst  of  a  group  of 
saline  and  other  springs  (promiscuous  bathing)  and  picturesque 
mt.  scenery.  The  decadent  town  of  KtUani  lies  6  M.  toward  the 
S.  in  a  hilly  region.  A  kind  of  earthenware  called  Yamanaka-  • 
ware  is  produced  in  the  neighborhood.  The  internal  fires  which 
rage  over  a  large  section  hereabout  advertise  their  presence 
by  a  multiplicity  of  springs  of  various  chemical  properties,  to 
which  the  ailing  natives  ascribe  wonderful  healing  powers. 

Occasional  gUmpses  of  the  sea  relieve  the  monotony  of  the 
land  views  as  the  train  runs  N.;  numerous  rivers  race  down 
from  the  great  mt.  range  at  the  right,  the  most  conspicuous 
feature  of  which  is  the  c^ehT&ted  Hakusan,  or  White  Mountain 
(often  called  Ka^a  no  Hakusan),  a  graceful,  snow-flecked  cone 
(8700  ft.)  which  16th-cent.  historians  refer  to  as  an  active 
volcano. 

Hakasan  is  to  mariners  on  the  Japan  Sea  mueh  what  Or\ta)t>a  \&  Na  ^t^'^'^*^ 
of  the  Mexican  Gulf,  a  beautiful  and  shining  Undmaxk;  lit  TMStt  •*  *^!1S; 
toeJugbestandAtestoftbeJapaneaemtM.  AoooidinaViI>r.  Kewa"" 


548    Route  3$,       NOTO  PENINSULA  Mtm. 


upon  JurasBio  sandstones  and  traohytio  conglomerates  of  magnlfioHit ' 

blende  andesite,  and  because  of  its  wealth  of  v^etable  forms  is  one  of  tiM 
most  interesting  mts.  in  Japan.  None  of  the  numerous  lofty  summits  of  the 
country  offer  so  varied  a  field  for  botamcal  geography,  and  few  if  any  esbfbii 
an  eqiudly  rich  and  remarkable  collection  of  plants  belonging  to  differant 
floras  of  the  world.  A  number  of  temples  adorn  the  three  peaks  (B«Mai«» 
7733  ft.;  Chatn-mine,  9000  ft.;  and  the  lower  Onanji)  of  HakrMon.  and  in 
July  and  Aug.  are  much  visited  by  pilgiims.  At  its  foot,  near  Ichit%o»et  a 
strong  chalybeate  bath  offers  to  many  invalids  a  prospect  of  recovery. 

The  customary  starting-point  for  the  ascent  of  naJeusan  is  Kanaxawa 
whence  /cAinMe  is  34  M.  From  here  the  trail  is  steepish  to  the  (7  M.)  ifu- 
rodo  rest-house,  and  steeper  yet  to  the  sxmunit,  ^  mile  higher^  ExceUant 
advice  regarding  outfits,  etc.,  will  be  found  in  Rev.  Walter  Weston* a  Japan- 
ese Alps.  Guides  are  necessary.  The  region  is  wild  and  uncultivated;  the 
people  hardworking  and  honest.  The  views  f  rcHn  the  summit  are  fine,  but  are 
not  superior  to  those  obtainable  from  the  crest  of  Fujit  which  is  more  easily 
approached,  less  difficult,  and  is  marked  by  fewer  discomforts.   The  Teton' 

frau)a,  the  most  important  river  of  Kaga  Province,  and  which  the  rly.  croeaee 
ust  before  reaching  105  M.  Mikatoa^  has  its  rise  on  the  flank  otHakusan, 

116  M.  Kanazawa  (Inns: Ouraya^  Asadaya^  etc.:  from  ¥2.50 
and  upward),  capital  of  Kaga  rtovince  and  of  Ishikawa  Pre- 
fecture, a  thriving  city  with  111,000  inhabs.,  is  5  M.  from  the 
sea,  133  ft.  above  it,  and  was  foimded  in  the  15th  cent.  Many 
bronze  objects  are  made  here,  and  the  city  is  a  great  shipping- 
point  for  the  handsomely  decorated  KtUani-yaJdj  or  Kaga 
porcelain.  The  old  castle  (now  a  military  post)  dates  from 
1683,  at  which  time  it  was  built  by  Maeda  Toshiie,  to  whom 
Hideyoshi  gave  the  province  as  a  fief.  The  Kenroku-'enj  or 
*  Six-fold  Garden'  (with  islets,  quaint  bridges,  fish-  and  lotus- 
ponds),  on  the  opposite  hill,  was  laid  out  by  one  of  the  Maedas 
in  the  17th  cent.,  and  ranks  as  one  of  the  finest  in  the  Empire. 
Visitors  with  time  to  spare  should  inspect  it  and  enjoy  the 
view  over  the  city  from  the  miniature  mt.  (called  Fukujusan) 
within  it.  —  The  Industrial  Museum  differs  but  little  from 
those  in  other  cities.  —  Soon  after  leaving  Kanazawa  the  rly. 
Crosses  the  Asano-gawa  to 

123  M.  Tsubata  (LdA:  Kitaniya,  ¥2.50),  the  starting  point  for 
the  Nanao  Line  to  34  M.  Yatashin,  on  the  Nolo  Peninsula  at 
^  theN.W.  Time,  about  2  hrs.;  fare,  ¥1.43, 1st  cl.;  86  aen,  2d  cL 

Nanao  (pop.  12,000;  Inn:  Nozakiya,  ¥2),  the  capital  and  chief  town, 
stands  (near  tne  center  of  the  E.  coast)  on  Nanao  Bay  —  which  indents  the 
peninsula  in  a  W.  direction  for  about  10  M.  The  old  castle  was  erected  hy 
Hatakeyatna  Mitsunori,  governor  of  the  province  in  139S.  The  harbor  is  one 
of  the  best  on  the  Japan  Sea,  and  as  the  water  makes  in  from  Toyama  Bay 
it  forms  an  anchorage  almost  as  sheltered  and  as  safe  as  that  of  the  justly 
famous  harbor  of  l^dney,  New  South  Wales.  There  is  splendid  fishing  and 
fine  scenery.  The  Hot  Mineral  Springs  of  Wakura  (}  hr.  by  jinriki)  are  pbi>« 
ular.  IFcyimi,  on  the  N.  coast  (pop.  8000),  is  the  next  largest  town.  So  few 
f orttgn  travelers  penetrate  to  Noto  that  many  of  the  quaint  native  customs 
are  untainted  by  contact  with  the  West,  and  are  practiced  in  their  original 
simplicity. 

From  Tsubata  the  grade  slopes  upward  through  the  Tattdzuror 
ori  Tunnel  to  the  longer  {^\xfl  i\!^  Kurifcara  Tunnel,  whence 
it  descends  again  and  pasaea  Bev«eX\voc«i^^cyc^,«ci\,\si^rc>&^^ 
pl^n.    141  M.  rdkoofca  (pop.  *i5,^*»i^  mw^xyl^^Xj^^Xa^^i^ 
And  lacquer-wares.  ThebranclitV^.^^^^'^^^^'^^^^"^'^ 


KYOTO  TO  NARA       SS.  Rouie.    549 

sea  goes  to  4  M.  FusMki  (7  M.  from  Nanao,  and  63  from  Nor 
oetsu  —  daily  steamers).  Three  rivers  are  crossed  before  the 
line  reaches  153  M.  Toyama  (Inn:  Tahamatsu^ya;  Toyama 
Hotel,  both  native  style,  ¥2.50-3.50),  the  capital  of  EtchU 
Province  and  of  Toyamorkeny  with  58,000  inhabs.  and  13,000 
houses.  The  handsome  old  city  with  its  castle  erected  in  1572 
was  long  the  railhead  of  the  Ime.  Its  situation  on  the  JimU- 
gawa  formerly  added  to  its  strategic  value,  and  for  many  yrs. 
prior  to  the  Restoration  it  was  one  of  the  headquarters  of  Uie 
powerful  Matsudaira  daimyds.  The  fine  volcanic  mt.  visible 
on  the  sky-line  at  the  E.  is  Tateyama  (9,600  ft.).  —  Hence 
to  the  end  of  the  line  the  rly.  follows  the  contour  of  the  sea 
over  a  fairly  level  country  nanked.on  the  right  by  imposing 
mts.  Conspicuous  among  these  is  Orenge-^yama  ('Great  Lotus 
Mt.O  the  highest  point  (9974  ft.)  in  the  N.  part  of  the  Japanese 
Alps.  Many  ^ants  of  this  rugged  range  nse  in  pointed  gran- 
deur, and  besides  adding  awe-inspiring  adjuncts  to  the  land- 
scape they  influence  it  materially  by  their  hei^t.  The  trav- 
eler who  comes  this  way  in  winter  will  not  fail  to  be  surprised 
at  the  heavy  snow-fall  —  a  phenomenon  attributable  to  the 
cold,  dry  air  of  Siberia  crossing  the  Japan  Sea  and  impinging 
on  the  W.  face  of  this  warmer,  volcanic  range.  For  months 
the  country  is  sometimes  buried  under  such  masses  of  snow 
that  the  inhabitants  are  forced  to  make  use  of  the  tunnels  re- 
ferred to  at  p.  Iviii.  —  Eleven  shallow  but  wide  and  swift  rivers 
cross  the  rly.  track  between  Toyama  and  184  M.  Tomari, 
near  which  is  a  magnificent  stretch  of  seashore  familiar  to 
most  Japanese  because  of  the  two  high,  rocky  clifiFs  known 
as  Koshirazu,  and  Oyaahirazu  —  'Not-knowmg  children,' 
and  'Not-knowing  parents.'  AncienUy  the  highway  lay  along 
the  beach,  and  during  the  strong  N.  W.  gales,  the  sea  oeat  in 
with  such  fury  that  those  who  passed  by  did  so  at  great  peril 
to  their  lives.  Hence,  no  man  was  supposed  to  have  a  care 
for  aught  but  himself.  These  granite  cliffs  are  supposed  to  be 
the  starting-point  of  the  range  of  the  Alps  that  stretch  to  the 
Plains  of  Mino,  nearly  a  hundred  miles  distant  at  the  S. 
The  waters  hereabout  are  renowned  for  a  species  of  sole  (karei) 
and  a  sea-bream  (tot),  the  latter  good  eating  but  with  an  odor 
like  animated  cheese  (whence  the  expression:  KitsaUe  mo  taiy 
'although  it  is  putrid  it  is  better  than  other  fish!').  —  228 
M.  Naoetsu.    See  Rte.  6,  p.  65. 

33.  From  Kyoto  vift  Fushimi,  Momo-yama,  and  Uji,  to  Nairn. 

Ky5to-Nara-Takada  Section  of  tiie  Kansd  Line;  Imperial  Oor't  Riihnij. 

26  M.  Frequent  trains  (from  the  Ky6to  Station,  PV.  C,  S)  m\\\aA. ^\A^« 
let  cl.;  68  sen,  2d  oh). 

The  train  rum  southward  through  the  tawdry  bv^ms^  ^^"^^ 
a  OAttiBh  country  diapered  with  truck-g^deiyi  aJad  ^^i%X«w»- 


650    Route  S3.  MOMO-YAM A  Meyi  Tennd. 

by  the  Kamo^atva,  The  Toji  Pagoda  is  passed  (right),  then 
0eft)  the  big  Kenshirboaehi  (spinning-mill).  2  M.  Fuskimi^ 
a  low-lying  suburban  town  (pop.  25,000)  on  the  right  bank  of 
the  Uji  River  (the  Setorpawa  at  Lake  Biwa,  and  the  Yodo' 
gawa  at  Osaka),  was  an  important  place  during  the  early  life 
of  Kyoto  —  the  scene  of  much  Imperial  pomp  and  glitter,  and 
the  theater  of  numerous  decisive  battles.  No  vestige  remainn 
of  its  former  greatness,  but  the  ruins  of  an  early  Tokugawa 
castle  can  still  be  traced.  Tea  plantations  extend  beyond  the 
town  and  up  the  gentle  slope  to  the  yet  more  historic 

(4  M.)  Momo-yama,  or  'Peach  Hill,'  so  called  for  the  many 
peach  trees  which  grow  on  its  slopes.  It  is  a  favorite  haunt 
of  Kyoto  folks,  thousands  of  whom  foregather  here  (tramway) 
in  spring  to  witness  the  beautiful  display  of  blossoms,  and  in 
the  autmnn  to  see  the  turning  maple  leaves.  A  half-mile 
from  the  station,  at  the  crest  of  the  hill  on  the  site  of  Toyotomi 
Hideyoshi^a  'Peace  Palace'  (erected  in  1594  at  a  cost  of 
6  million  yen)^  commanding  a  superb  view  across  the  historic 
Yamato  Plmriy  ov^  the  winding  Uji  River  to  the  distant 
Otoko^ama  and  its  picturesque  Hachiman  Skrine,  is  the  mas- 
sive mausoleum  (Momo-yama  goryo)  of  the  late  Meiji  Tenn6. 

Peach  Hill  was  known  anciently  as  Fu^imi-yama,  and  for  more  than  a 
thousand  yeanf  it  has  reflected  Ky5to's  greatness.  Already  heavy  with  the 
bones  of  long-dead  Mikados,  it  was  the  scene,  at  11  o'clock  on  the  night  of 
Sept.  14,  1912,  of  one  of  the  most  gorgeous  and  singularly  impressive  cere- 
monies ever  witnessed  in  New  Japan.  To  the  distant  crashing  and  the  rever- 
berating roar  of  minute-guns;  the  wailing  of  bugles  and  the  booming  of  gi- 
gantic temple  bells;  to  the  sound  of  the  wud  minstrelsy  of  priests  and  bonses, 
the  pattering  of  a  weeping,  drenching  rain  and  the  sighing  of  a  vast  eon- 
course  of  mourning  people,  —  Japanese  and  foreigners  alike,  —  ihe  mortal 
remains  of  MtUauhito,  the  123d  Mikado,  of  the  QSth  generation  from  Jt'mmu 
Tenndt  were  laid  tenderly  in  their  last  resting-place.  Squads  of  soldiers  and 
civilians,  priests  and  laymen,  foreign  diplomats  and  servants  of  the  Imperial 
Household,  —  many  holding  sputtering  pine  torches  on  high  to  light  the 
strange  cortege,  —  awaited  the  arrival  from  T6lar6  of  the  funeral  train  — 
the  first  steam  railway  train  ever  to  bear  a  Mikaao  to  his  gravel  From  the 
station  a  hundred  picked  men  carried  the  wonderful  catafalque  to  the  sepul- 
oher,  into  which  the  coffin  was  lowered  over  an  inclined  track. 

The  Impebial  Casket  reposes  in  a  splendid  sarcophagus  of  polished  gran- 
ite from  Sanuki  Province  (Shikoku),  20  ft.  below  the  surface  of  the  ground, 
walled  about  by  several  feet  of  specially  prepared  charcoal  to  exclude  mois- 
ture.  Covering  this  is  a  thick  shell,  like  an  inverted  bowl,  of  concrete,  and 
300,000  pebbles  and  boulders.  The  indosure  (140  by  170  yds.)  is  encircled 
by  a  granite  wall  5  ft.  high  pierced  by  a  gate  bearing  the  16-petal  chrysan- 
themimi  crest.   Within  are  torii  and  a  pair  of  stone  lanterns  inscribed  (in 
the  handwriting  of  Prince  Kan^iit)  with  the  words  'Fuahimi  Momoyama 
Gory 6.*   In  obedience  to  a  very  old  funeral  custom,  4  clay  images  2  ft.  5  in. 
high,  clad  in  ancient  armor  and  called  haniwa,  stand  at  the  comers  of  the 
coffin,  and  represent  the  samurai  or  other  retainers  who  anciently  were 
buried  alive  with  the  Emperor  whom  in  life  they  had  served.  Near  them  are 
deposited  branches  of  the  quasi-sacred   Cleyera  japonica,  spears,  shields, 
boWs,  arrows,  and  the  like.  Shintd  ceremonials  accompanied  the  interment, 
which,  coupled  with  the  elaborate  functions  at  T5ky0  and  the  cost  of  the 
tomb,  represented  an  outlay  ol  neatVy  Into  tdjJXxoti  ^wvf 
The  spectacle  at  the  nationaV  capiteA.  ^«j&  m^AjfevVafeVvj  ^^  mt«^.  ^vodidly         I 
mpreaave  one  ever  witnessed  in  mvi»0Ti.  ^^:L^\%^^^^^^^i^^^^  \ 

KabJe  to  forget  it.  Spckaid  cewmomw'w«j.^^\\^«^^  ^ 

*«iou»  ahrine  erected  for  ibe  ocoanon  ifcAiA  kov«n«'*^^^«**^  ,%»tt.^\«a»^ 


Tea.  UJI  3S,  Route.    551 

vanguard  of  the  proceasifm  reached  this  point  the  rear  end  was  still  at  the 


assembly,  along  with  chests  for  bows  and  arrows,  and^many  curious  relics 
of  feudal  days.  The  magnificent  and  resplendent  funeral-car  was  drawn 
by  two  cream-white  oxen,  while  3  others  were  held  in  reserve.  A  special 
funeral-train,  preceded  by  another  to  clear  the  way,  carried  the  remains  to 
the  ancient  capital,  and  from  11  p.m.  to  12.40  a.m.  the  guns  from  15  warships 
Hi  •  '  ...         -  .  -  «- 


in  Yokohama*H  arbor  bo<ttned  a  mournful  requiem.  For  several  days  preced- 
ing  the  sepulture  upward  of  100,000  persons  visited  Momo-j/ama,  and  the 
monetary  offerings  (saisen)  to  the  tomb  amounted  to  about  8000  yen  a  day. 
Absolute  silence  was  enjcnned  on  the  workmen  while  constructing  the 
mausoleum,  the  stones  of  which  are  polished  on  both  sides.  The  elalx>rate 
funeral-car  (Jusha)  is  preserved  in  the  Imperial  Museum  at  T5ky0.  A  splen- 
did palanqmn  carried  on  the  shoulders  of  picked  young  men  (  Yase  I)oji) 
from  Y(ue-Ohara  village  (about  5  M.  to  the  N.  of  TOkyO),  is  now  kept  in 
the  Ky6to  Imperial  Museiun,  and  is  called  iSoika-A:en  or 'Onion-flower  Cart,' 
from  the  resemblance  of  the  hdshu-no-tama  on  the  top  to  the  onion  flower. 
The  mausoleum  is  guarded  day  and  night,  and  relio-maniacs  who  do  not 
repress  acquisitive  tendencies  are  subjected  to  harsh  treatment.  The  group 
of  ancient  pines  near  the  tomb  have  stood  there  since  time  immemorial. 
The  tomb  on  the  N.  side  of  the  hill  is  that  of  the  Emperor  Ktoammu,  the 
founder  of  Kv5to.  —  On  the  day  of  the  State  funeral  three  huge  tortoises, 
on  whose  backs  a  record  of  the  event  had  been  written  in  black  lacquer,  were 
released  and  placed  in  the  ocean  off  Ogataivara  Island. 

Beyond  Momo^yama  the  rolling  countr^r  is  flecked  with 
groves  of  the  fine  bamboo  for  which  the  resion  is  known,  and 
with  thousands  of  knob-like  tea-bushes.  Plantations  of  these 
flank  the  meandering  streams  and  bead  the  rly.  while  groups 
fill  the  back  yards  of  the  houses.  The  Uji  River  is  crossed 
after  leaving  the  unimportant  station  of  Kohata, 

9  M.  Uji  (pop.  3000),  a  pretty  town  (Kikuya  Hotel,  small, 
¥3)  in  Yamashiro  Province,  Ky6to  Municipality,  stands  on 
the  left  bank  of  the  river  and  has  been  celebrated  for  centuries 
for  its  fine  tea.  Some  very  choice  varieties  are  grown  here,  and 
an  irregular  stone  monument  (erected  in  1887)  in  the  grounds 
of  the  local  temple  refers  to  its  introduction  (comp.  p.  cvi). 
In  April  the  wealth-producing  bushes  are  sheltered  from  the 
ardent  sun  by  straw  mats  and  the}r  then  present  a  curious 
spectacle.  In  Mav,  when  the  picking  of  the  leaves  is  in 
progress,  the  hillnslopes  flame  with  bri|^tly  colored  costumes 
of  the  maids  and  matrons  engaged  in  the  task.  Late  in 
autumn  the  same  women  thresh  out  the  mature  rice-straw 
with  primitive  flails  and  add  picturesqueness  to  the  land- 
scape. 

17 ji  came  into  prominence  in  the  7th  cent,  when  the  bonze 
Daichd  constructed  tJie  historic   Uji-bashif  the  protot3rpe  of 
the  present  bridge  spanning  the  river  at  the  left  of  that  of  the 
rly.   Its  situation  on  the  S.,  or  Nara,  side  of  the  stream,  gave 
it  considerable  strategic  value  and  made  it  the  center  of  inasi'^ 
hard-fought  battles  between  political  aspiraxitB.    T\k&\>  ol 
A,i>.  1180,  between  Taira  Tomonwri  at  the  lM»d  ol  Tftf**^ 
nen,  and  the  valiant  Minamoto    Yarimasa  (then  75  yra.  ^ 
^J,  IS  stj'JJ  commemorated.    The  v^ilanl    YoritaoMi  \»A. 


552    Bmde  33.  tTJI  Firefly  BatiU. 

•taken  advanta^  of  a  heavy  fog  to  remove  the  planking  from 
the  bridge,  and  when  200  or  more  of  the  Taira  horsemen  gal- 
loped on  to  it  they  plunged  through  and  were  drowned.  This 
so  enraged  the  Taira  that  in  a  desperate  attempt  to  capture 
the  wily  old  warrior  they  shot  him  through  with  an  arrow. 
Dragging  himself  to  the  -oyo-do-iw,  Yorimasa  stripped  himself 
of  his  armor,  seated  himself  upon  his  iron  fan,  and  calmly 
disemboweled  himself  (the  2d  instance  of  harakiri  on  record). 
His  two  sons  and  most  of  his  devoted  followers  perished  with 
him.  Relics  of  the  tragedy  are  enshrined  in  the  temple.  This 
historic  structiM-e,  ascribed  to  Fujiwara  Yorimichi  when  he 
turned  bonze  in  1052,  is  the  property  of  the  Tendai  sect  and  is 
one  of  Uji*8  chief  *  sights.*  The  Howd-den  (Phoenix  Hall), 
a  duplicate  of  which  was  exhibited  at  the  World's  Fair  in 
Chicago  in  1893,  is  now  too  badly  decayed  to  be  of  great  inter- 
est. Several  quaint  monuments  stand  in  the  town  and  point 
to  its  past  greatness.  *  « 

Uji  is  perhaps  best  known  to  foreigners  for  the  curious 
HotarurKasseUf  or  Battle  of  the  Fireflies,  a  spectacular  event 
occurring  usually  about  June  10  of  each  year,  near  midnight. 
Special  trains  are  run  on  the  rly.,  and  thousands  of  persons 
come  hither  from  Kyoto  (tram-cars),  Osaka,  Kobe,  and  near- 
by cities  to  witness  the  brilliant  struggle.  By  bespeaking  a 
boat  (scarce  at  this  time)  from  the  hotel  one  can  make  the 
trip  as  a  short  excursion  from  Kyoto.  The  battle  (one  of 
the  strangest  sights  in  a  strange  country)  occurs  on  the  river 
between  Uji  and  Fushimi,  about  IJ  hrs.  boat  ride  from  the 
former  place,  at  a  point  where  the  stream  winds  between  hills. 
The  uncounted  millions  of  sparkling  insects  produce  a  scene 
of  bewildering  beauty  as  they  wheel  and  circle  against  the 
velvety  background  of  night,  and  the  scores  of  illuminated 
boats  on  which  there  are  dancing  and  singing,  geisha,  music, 
and  jollity,  add  to  the  charm.  When  the  fireflies  have  assem- 
bled in  force  myriads  dart  from  either  bank  and  meet  and 
cling  above  the  water.  At  moments  they  so  swarm  together 
as  to  form  what  appears  to  the  eye  like  a  luminous  cloud,  or 
like  a  great  ball  of  sparks.  The  cloud  soon  scatters,  or  the 
ball  drops  and  breaks  upon  the  surface  of  the  current,  and  the 
fallen  fireflies  drift  glittering  away;  but  another  swarm  quickly 
collects  in  the  same  locality.  People  wait  all  night  in  boats 
upon  the  river  to  watch  the  phenomenon.  After  the  Hotaru- 
Kassen  is  done,  the  river  is  covered  with  the  still  sparkling 
bodies  of  the  drifting  insects.  Then  the  natives  refer  po- 
etically to  the  stream  as  the  'Milky  Way,'  the  'River  of 
jHeaven,'  etc. 

Two  species  of  fireflieB  or  luciola  (flom«>\.\mftft  <i^>\«^V«ig^\s^-bu«)  hAve 
8  wide  distribution  in  Japan,  ^Yiew  t\iey  ^V''^??  JXS?vv^^w'^^^ 

i€««nd  to  the  effect  that  ihey  .are  Oie  ?^^^^^^^J*X^SS«^^  ^3S^ 
^•rrioTB.   It  18  said  that  even  in  tbeVt  vnaect  tStia-pw^  xbkv  « 


Fireflies,  UJI   .  SS,  RmUs.    653 

dan-Btruggles  of  the  12th  cent.,  and  that  because  of  this,  once  every  year 
they  fight  the  great  battle  on  the  Uji  River.  From  this  the  natives  beueve 
that  on  that  night  ail  caged  fireflies  should  be  set  free,  in  order  that  tfa^mi^ 
be  able  to  take  part  in  the  contest.  The  Oenji-botaru,  the  largest  q>eeies  in 
Japan  proper,  is  found  in  almost  every  part  of  the  country  from  KyUahi 
to  Mutsu;  the  Heike-botaru,  which  is  smaller  and  which  emits  a  feebler  Ught, 
ranges  farther  N.,  being  specially  common  in  the  colder  i&Jand  of  Yeso;  out 
it  is  found  also  in  the  central  and  southern  provinces.  Both  have  been  cele- 
brated in  Japanese  poetiy  from  ancient  times;  and  frequent  mention  of  them 
is  made  in  early  prose.  There  is  an  old  bdief  that  the  soul  of  a  person  still 
alive  may  sometimes  assume  the  shape  of  a  firefly,  from  which  circumstance 
they  are  objects  of  special  reverence.  Firefly-hunting,  as  a  diversion,  is  a 
very  old  custom;  anciently  it  was  an  aristocratic  amusement,  and  great 
nobles  used  to  give  firefly-hunting  parties  —  hotaru-ffari.  Firefly-hunting 
at  Uji  reminds  every  cultured  Japanese  of  the  nationally  celebrated  love- 
stonr  of  Aaagao  and  Aaojiro  —  that  plaintive  tale  which  the  pidayii  singer 
renders  with  such  pathos.  All  over  Japan  the  children  have  their  firefly  hunts 
every  siunmer,  moonless  nights  being  chosen  for  such  expeditions.  Girls 
foUow  the  chase  with  paper  fans;  boys,  with  long  light  poles  to  the  ends  of 
which  wisps  of  fresh  bamboo  grass  are  tied.  While  hunting  the  children  sing 
little  songs  supposed  to  attract  the  shining  prey  (which  exists  in  almost  every 
locality  under  special  folk-names). 

Many  persons  earn  their  living  during  the  summer  months  by  catching 
and  selling  the  larger  species  of  fireflies.  The  chief  center  of  the  industry 
is  in  the  region  about  lahiyama,  near  the  Lake  of  Omi,  where  a  number  of 
houses,  each  of  which  employs  three-  or  fourscore  catchers  during  the  busy 
season,  supply  fireflies  to  losny  parts  of  the  country,  and  especially  to  the 
great  cities  of  KyOto  and  Osaka.  Some  training  and  a  knowledge  of  the 
habits  of  the  insects  are  required  for  the  occupation.  Fireflies  dislike  certain 
trees  and  are  attracted  hy  others.  They  avoid  pine  trees,  and  they  will  not 
light  upon  rosebushes.  Upon  weeping  willow  trees  they  gather  in  swarms, 
and  occasionally,  on  a  sultry  night  in  summer,  one  may  see  a  drooping  wil- 
low so  covered  and  illuminated  with  fireflies  that  all  its  branches  appear  to 
be  '  budding  fire.'  A  tyro  might  find  it  no  easy  matter  to  catch  a  hundred 
fireflies  in  a  single  night;  but  an  expert  has  been  known  to  catch  3000.  The 
methods  of  capture,  while  simple  enough,  are  effective  -;—  and  interesting. 
'Immediately  after  sunset  the  firefly-hunter  goes  forth  with  a  long  bamboo 
pole  upon  his  shoulder,  and  a  long  bag  of  brown  mosquito-netting  wound, 
like  a  girdle,  about  his  waist.  When  he  reaches  a  wooded  i^ce  frequented 
by  fireflies,  —  usually  some  spot  where  willows  are  planted,  on  the  bank  of 
a  river  or  lake,  —  he  halts  and  watches  the  trees.  As  soon  as  these  be^in  to 
twinkle  satisfactorily,  he  gets  his  net  ready,  approaches  the  most  lummous 
tree,  and  with  his  pole  strikes  the  branches.  The  fireflies,  dislodged  by  the 
shock,  do  not  immediately  take  flight,  as  more  active  insects  woidd  do  un- 
der like  circumstances,  but  drop  helplessly  to  the  ground,  beetle-wise,  where 
their  light  —  always  more  brilliant  in  moments  of  fear  or  pain  —  renders 
them  conspicuous.  If  suffered  to  remain  upon  the  ground  for  a  few  moments 
they  will  fly  awav.  But  the  catcher,  picking  them  up  with  astonishing  quick- 
ness, using  both  hands  at  once,  deftly  tosses  them,  into  his  mouth, — because 
be  cannot  lose  the  time  required  to  put  them,  one  by  one,  into  the  bag.  Only 
when  his  mouth  can  hold  no  more,  does  he  drop  the  fireflies,  unharmed,  into 
the  netting.  Thus  the  firefly-catcher  works  until  about  2  o'clock  in  the  a.m., 
—  the  old  Japanese  hour  of  ghosts,  —  at  which  time  the  insects  begin  to 
leave  the  trees  and  seek  the  dewy  soil.  There  th^  are  said  to  bury  their 
tails,  so  as  to  remain  viewless.  But  now  the  hunter  changes  his  tactics. 
Taking  a  bamboo  broom  he  brushes  the  surface  of  the  turf,  lightly  and 
quickly.  Whenever  touched  or  alarmed  by  the  broom,  the  fireflies  display 
tneir  lanterns,  and  are  immediately  nipped  and  bagged.  A  little  before  oiAwn 
the  hunters  return  to  town.' 

At  the  firefly-shops  the  captured  insects  are  sorted  as  soon  as  posaLbte 
according  to  the  brilliancy  of  their  light  (hotarvJbi)  —  i7\a.<ji[i  3«.p«Xk»eib  cJa- 
servers  have  described  aa  cha-iro  (tea-coloied),  becauae  ol  \\A^ak«naa»\o,J»» 
clear,  greenish-yellow  tint  of  the  infusion  of  Japanese  tea  ol  tLOoA.  qjaaw;*!  • 
CThe  Ugbt  of  the  Genji  Aiedy  is  ao  brilliant  that  only  ak«eti  eye  <i«»  ^*^**\ 
5Ae  greenish  color;  at  Grat  mgbt  the  flash  appeals  as  y«Jft«xw  «3  ^^*  ^■»»  ** 


554    Bte.  Si.      NARA  AND  ITS  ENVIRONS 

a  wood-fire.)  They  are  then  put  into  gau^e-oovered  boxes  or  cages  (Aotem- 
kago)  of  one  or  two  hundred  each  (according  to  grade)  along  with  a  <;|uantitj 
of  moistened  grass.  Great  numbers  are  ordered  for  display  at  evening  par* 
ties  in  the  summer  season.  The  wholesale  price  ranges  from  3  to  16  Ben  a 
hundred,  and  the  retail  price  from  5  sen  (for  a  modest  cage  containing  3  or 
4  insects)  to  several  yen  (for  the  tasteful  bamboo  cages  made  in  the  form 
of  junks,  temple-lant^ns,  and  what-not).  Restaurant-keepers  purchase 
largely.  A  large  guest-room  in  a  native  house  usually  overlooks  a  garden; 
and  duiing  a  banquet  or  other  evening  entertainment,  given  in  the  sultry 
season,  it  is  customary  to  set  fireflies  at  liberty  in  the  garden  after  sunset, 
BO  that  the  visitors  may  enjoy  the  sparkling.  In  certain  of  the  well-known 
tea-houses  of  Kydto,  Osaka,  and  Tdkyd,  a  myriad  of  the  delicate  insects 
are  kept  in  garden  plots  inclosed  by  mosquito-netting;  customers  of  the 
houses  are  permitted  to  enter  the  indosure  and  capture  a  certain  number 
of  fireflies  to  take  home  with  them.  Curious  medicaments  are  obtained  from 
the  dead  insects:  one,  called  Hotaru-no-abura^  or  'Firefly-fiorease,'  is  used 
by  wood-workers  for  the  purpose  of  imparting  rigidity  to  objects  made  of 
bent  bamboo. 

According  to  Mr.  Lafcadio  Heam,  and  Mr.  Shozabitro  Wataaet  —  both 
authorities  and  both  sometime  lecturers  in  the  Tdkyd  Imperial  University, — 
the  morphology  of  fireflies  discloses  the  fact  that  the  number  of  light-pulsar- 
tions  produced  by  one  species  of  Japanese  firefly  averages  26  per  minute; 
and  the  rate  suddenly  rises  to  63  per  minute  if  the  insect  be  frightened  by 
seisure.  A  smaller  kind  will  increase  the  number  of  light-puLsations  to  up- 
ward of  200  per  minute.  The  light  mechanism  is  one  of  amasing  intricacy 
and  beauty.  'Frogs  fill  their  cold  bellies  with  fireflies  till  the  light  shJbies 
through  them,  much  as  the  light  of  a  candle-flame  will  glow  through  a  porce- 
lain jar.'  The  firefly  uses  96.6  per  cent  of  its  energy  for  light.  '  The  lighting 
apparatus  consists  of  the  three  lower  segments  of  the  abdomen.  Dissection  m. 
the  luminous  part  showed  that  there  was  a  layer  of  Ught-producinf  material, 
a  reflecting  transparent  layer  and  another  layer  of  coloring  material.  These 
layers  are  penetrated  by  innumerable  tiny  trachess  or  windpipes.  The  air 
is  drawn  m  throu^  the  ordinary  breathing  passages,  and  then  forced 
through  the  tiny  windpipes  on  the  light-producing  tissue.  There  the  oxy- 
gen of  the  air  is  consumed  in  a  biologic  oxidation.' 

From  Uji  the  rly.  continues  S.  over  a  pretty  country 
flecked  with  bamboo  groves  and  paddy-fields.  The  highway 
is  good  for  automobiles.  11  M.  Shinden.  13  M.  Nagaike. 
In  season  the  hill-slopes  flame  with  ripening  oranges,  wl]dch 
here  and  there  grow  from  the  dikes  separating  the  rice-plots. 
Many  of  the  tasteless  native  pears  are  produced  in  the  region. 
Several  timnels  and  the  drab  little  stations  of  Tanakura  and 
Kamikome  mark  the  line  beyond  17  M.  Tamamizu,  The  rly. 
cross€»  the  Kizvrgawa  to  21  M.  Kizuy  the  junction  for  Ise 
and  OsakQy  then  traverses  the  flat  country  extending  to  26 
M.  Nara  (see  below). 

34.  Nara  and  its  Environs. 

Nara  (pop.  33,000,  with  6843  houses),  one  of  the  most  pic- 
turesque, restful,  and  thoroughly  Japanese  of  all  the  cities 
of  Japan,  stands  on  a  wide  and  beautiful  plain  (consult  Uie 
accompan3dn^  plan)  delimned  by  fine  mts.,  26  M.  S.E.  of 
Kyoto,  and  m  practically  the  same  latitude  (3°  56'  W.  of 
Tokyo)  in  Nara  Prefecture,  neai  the  extreme  N.  border  of  Old 
Yam&to  —  one  of  the  0T\guia\  ¥Vv^  ^ooifc^wSsMiRa  Ca  re- 
production in  Japan  of  apTOiBmea\.l^8A.\a^*mVXifc^tosa^^ 
tion  of  the  Middle  Kingdom  oi  Cb^aa:) . 


0      100 


0    so  40  ( 


Dn 
TERRY'S 


History.  NARA  $4.  Route,    555 

Travelers  from  Kyoto  and  tlie.N.  arrive  at  the  Nora  Station^  near  the  W. 
edge  of  the  city  (PI.  A,  3),  at  the  foot  of  the  chief  at.,  10  min.  walk  from  the 
hotel.  Jinriki,  25  sen.  The  Kyobate  Station  (PL  B,  4)  is  about  1  M.  to  the 
S.  The  hotel  courier  will  take  charge  of  luggage  and  deliver  a  steamer  trunk 
for  15  sen.  A  cart  that  will  accommodate  2  mediumHsised  trunks  can  be  hired 
for  40  sen,  and  a  larger  one  (2  men;  3-4  trunks)  for  70  sen.  Laundry  at  the 
hotel,  ¥6  per  100  pieces,  irrespective  of  si«e.  —  Jinrikis  (comp.  p.  faczxviii), 
per  day,  ¥1.50;  ^  day,  80  sen. 

The  Nara  HoUH  (Tel  add.:  'Hold  Nora*),  with  70  large,  airy  comfortable 
rooms,  numerous  private  baths  and  ;delightful  views,  stands  near  the  Park 
(PI.  C,  3)  and  is  under  the  management  of  the  Imperml  Czov't  Rlys.  English 
spoken.  Good  food.    Rooms,  with  3  meals,  from  ¥6  and  upward  a  day.  Re- 


duction for  two  pers.  in  a  room,  and  tor  a  long  stay.  Crowded  during  the 
Christmas  holidays. 

Founded  in  a.d.  710  as  the  capital  of  Japan  (which  with  the 
exception  of  an  interval  of  2  yrs.  it  continued  to  be  until  784), 
Nara  stood  anciently  somewhat  to  the  W.  of  the  present  city 
and  was  laid  out  on  the  lines  of  Si-ngan  the  historic  capital  of 
N.W.  China.  Japanese  art,  literature,  and  history  may  be 
said  to  have  begun  here,  for  the  first  written  histories  (see  p. 
cclxiv)  were  compiled  here  in  the  8th  cent,  (referred  to  as  the 
Nara  Epoch)  y  and  here  the  Buddhist  priest  Gyogi  ^ave  (at  the 
same  period)  the  first  impetus  to  the  clay-ware  industry  — 
many  of  the  products  of  that  date  being  still  known  collectively 
as  Gyogi-yaki.  The  sustained  turbulence  of  the  militant  monks 
attached  to  the  great  monasteries  caused  the  capital  to  be 
transferred  to  Nagaoka,  in  784,  after  which  the  city  was  called 
NantOy  or  Southern  Capital.  Its  numerous  and  ancient  tem- 
ples, its  superbly  endowed  museum,  splendid  walks,  magnifi- 
cent park,  excellent  hotel,  and  its  well-mannered  people  are 
peculiarly  pleasing  to  the  average  tourist,  for  whom  its  quaint 
customs  and  manifold  charm  hold  unfading  attractions.  While 
a  cursory  view  of  Nara* 8  main  'sights'  can  be  had  within  one 
or  two  days,  weeks,  and  even  months  can  be  spent  pleasantly 
in  its  charmed  atmosphere.  To  the  student  of  ancient  Japan- 
ese history  amost  every  foot  of  Yamato  is  classic  ground,  heavy 
with  memories  and  the  bones  of  long-dead  emperors  and  their 
glittering  trains.  In  addition  to  the  excursions  noted  herein- 
after, the  Kdyorsan  trip  described  at  p.  511,  and  many  minor 
jaunts  can  be  planned  with  iVoraas  the  center,  or  headquarters. 
Those  outlined  have  been  grouped  with  the  aim  of  saving  the 
busy  traveler  as  much  time  as  possible.  All  are  subject  to 
variations  in  route;  if  Hdryu-ji  and  Hasedara  are  eUmmated, 
then  one  morning  can  be  devoted  to  the  city  temples  and  th6 
museum,  and  the  afternoon  to  the  Temples  of  the  Plain.  If  the 
latter  are  rejected,  HdryU-ji  can  be  visited  in  one  naorning  and 
Hasedera  in  the  afternoon.  Yoshino  loses  much  of  its  interest  and 
beauty  with  the  fading  of  its  wonderful  cherry  blossoms,  while 
Horyu-ji  acquires  chs^  in  Nov.  by  its  maples,  and  ffaacdera 
in  May  by  its  peonies.  Many  foreigners  make  'i^^axa  aT£v^^>M\%- 
point  during  the  Chnstmaa  holidays,  at  w\^cYi  Wrae  >i>Ckei>MA^ 
management  plana  daacea,  etc.,  and  roomB  B\ia\]\d  \ie  s'e^^'^ 


556    Route  S4.  NARA  The  P^uk. 

for  well  in  advance.  —  A  specialty  of  the  Nara  region  is  a 
grass-cloth  of  superfine  quality  called  Nara  Jofu,  a  sort  of 
hemp  linen  (asanuno)  of  which  many  fabrics  are  made.  (Hemp 
is  the  oldest  cultivated  textile  plant  in  Japan,  and  the  clothing 
of  many  of  the  coimtrv  folks  is  made  of  a  coarse  hemp  fabric 
dyed  with  indigo.)  The  main  street  of  the  city,  SanjdHidri, 
leads  from  the  Nara  Rly,  Station^  at  the  W.  end,  to  the  en- 
trance to  the  Park  at  the  E.  At  right  angles  to  it,  near  the 
center,  is  the  Mochii'donOy  the  chief  shopping-street  oS.  the 
natives.  The  pond  at  the  N.  of  its  junction  with  Sango-ddri 
is  the  Sarusawa .  (Monkey  Swamp)  Pond,  associated  with  the 
ancient  history  of  the  region.  That  just  below  the  hotel  is 
the  Arordke, 

The  Kasuga  no  Miya,  or  Kasvgarjmja  (PL  D^  3),  a  historic 
Shinto  shrine  founded  in  a.d.  710  by  Fujiwara  Fuhito,  stands 
in  the  famous  Nara  Deer  Park,  on  the  slope  of  Kasnga-yama 
at  the  E.,  and  is  dedicated  to  Ame-no-koyane  no-mikoto  (or 
Kasugordaimydjin)  —  a  retainer  of  AmaterasUf  and  the  ori- 
ginal ancestor  of  the  Fujiwara  family.  After  Ise  and  Izumo 
it  is  one  of  the  most  ancient  and  venerated  sanctuaries  in 
Japan.  Like  all  purely  Shintd  temples,  it  has  been  repeatedly 
rebuilt  and  is  noteworthy  for  architectural  simplicity,  aJbeit 
in  the  matter  of  exterior  decoration  the  customary  decorum 
has  been  deviated  from:  painted  a  glowing  vermilion,  it  flames 
out  of  its  green  environment  like  one  of  the  gaudy  shrines  to 
Inari.  In  parts  it  retains  the  decorative  richness  acauired 
during  its  association  with  Buddhism  before  its  disestaJolish- 
ment,  and  recalls  certain  of  the  hybrid  shrine-temples  of 
Kyoto.  The  approach  to  it  is  charmingly  picturesque;  the 
great  red  wood  toriif  or  front  gate  (Ichi-no-torii),  marks  the 
outer  entrance  to  the  park  }  M.  from  it. 

The  *  Nan  Park  (PI.  C-D,  2-3),  a  magnifioent  stretch  of  woodland  com- 
prising some  1250  acres,  on  a  gentle  hill-slope,  crossed  and  re-crossed  by 
noble  avenues  overhung  with  lofty  evergreens  and  deciduous  trees  of  many 
varieties  (cryptomerias,  pines,  oaks,  plimis,  Salisburiaa,  etc.),  is  perhaps  the 
finest  cultivated  park  in  the  Empire,  and  it  strongly  recalls  the  splendid 
groves  which  stretch  away  from  the  rear  of  ChapuUepec,  in  the  Valley  of 
Mexico.  These  superb  trees  (60  or  more  of  which  were  imfortunatelv 
wrecked  by  the  devastating  typhoon  of  Sept.,  1912),  are  interspersed  with 
fine  old  cherry  trees  which  are  a  glory  in  April,  and  maples  which  are  of 
such  unexampled  beauty  in  Nov.  that  thousand's  of  pilgrims  repair  hither 
to  drink  in  the  beguiling  beauty  of  the  sight.  The  underbrush  beneath  the 
forest  monarchs  has  been  cleared  so  that  the  rich  greensward  comes  up  to 
the  very  trunks  and  makes  one  think  of  a  well-kept  English  park  or  a  stretch 
of  cultivated  woodland  in  the  Blue-grass  region  of  Kentucky.  Through  thia 
EUysian  xone  there  wander  at  will  hundreds  of  quasi-sacred,  dappled  fallow- 
deer  iCervus  aika  — Jap.  Shika)  so  tame  that  with  their  adorable  little  fawns 
they  eat  from  one's  hand  and  do  not  shrink  from  inserting  their  velvety  but 
cold  and  moiflt  noses  into  the  stranger's  pocket  in  search  of  goodies.  From 
tbia  protected  reservaUon  tbey  vfandet  «\\  ovcst  t\xe  town  and  the  adjacent 
biUa;  usually  returning  at  mgntiaW.  asiA  TOm^\:\m«?^\st«i^Tv^Hr^^daet  with 
them.  One  of  the  most  famous  l^aialeaX^vi\%  V.Ot\..  Vb  at  >^i«.wiiwi>^>^v^ 


Festivals,  NARA  34.  Route.    557 

taste  that  about  the  time  for  it  many  of  them  flee  to  the  distant  hills  and 
there  remain  until  they  deem  it  safe  to  return.  The  occasion  is  treated  as  a 
sort  of  round-up;  skillful  natives  take  the  place  of  cowboys  and  lasso  the 
leaping  and  doajging  deer  with  commendable  skill.  One  hundred  or  more 
of  the  (approz.)  700  animals  are  dehorned  each  year,  amid  considerable  ex- 
citement. The  horns  (jlsuno)  are  made  up  into  a  host  of  curios  and  sold  at 
the  local  shops.  Prior  to  1868  to  kill  one  of  the  Nara  deer  was  considered  a 
capital  offense.  —  Scattered  through  the  spacious  park  are  museums,  tem- 
ples, shrines,  shops,  etc.  Flanking  the  wide  central  avenue  are  said  to  be 
3000  stone  and  metal  lanterns  (tdro),  many  moss-covered  or  displaying  the 
fine  patina  which  centuries  only  can  give.  On  or  about  Feb.  2  of  each  year. 
at  the  period  (aetmbun)  when  winter  merges  into  spring,  the  lanterns  are  all 
lighted  and  the  park  presents  a  fairy-like  a8i>ect.  The  illumination  is  re- 
peated on  special  occasions,  and  tourists  desirous  of  witnessing  the  sight 
can  (through  the  hotel  management)  arrange  for  it  on  payment  of  a  certain 
sum. 

It  is  through  this  pleasing  avenue  that  the  traveler  ap- 
"       '  the 


proaches  the  Kasuga  Shrine;  the  attractive  building  at  tl 
left,  not  far  from  the  tonij  is  the  Nara  Mvseum^  and  the  one 
beyond  it  is  the  Nara  Froducts  Bazaar  (Buppin  Chin- 
retsu'jo:  open  free,  from  9  to  4)  with  a  permanent  and  varied 
exhibit  of  local  products  for  sale  and  marked  with  fixed  prices. 
The  surroundings  are  beautiful  when  the  wistaria  for  which 
the  park  is  not^  festoons  the  great  trees.  As  one  advances 
the  upward-sloping  avenue  narrows  and  the  lanterns  become 
more  numerous.  At  the  foot  of  the  stone  steps  to  the  terrace 
on  which  the  shrine  stands  is  a  big  bronze  deer,  couchant, 
serving  as  a  fountain  {izumi).  The  path  which  branches  on 
toward  the  right  leads  to  the  small  Shirorivji^ruhUild  (white 
wistaria  fall) ;  the  structure  at  the  left  is  where  Imperial  mes- 
sengers to  the  shrine  register  their  names.  A  huge  vermilion 
gateway  (left),  flanked  by  long  corridors  which  form  an  interior 
square  and  are  hung  with  hundreds  of  metal  lanterns,  marks 
the  entrance  to  the  inclosure.  The  ramshackle  old  building 
at  the  left  (inside)  is  the  HaideUy  remembered  by  the  country 
yokels  for  the  rusty  old  iron  lantern  suspendea  at  the  near 
comer.  The  hook,  of  rusted  iron  about  IJ  in.  long,  is  locust- 
shaped,  and  when  the  lantern  swings  and  creaks,  the  locust  or 
semi  (whence  the  name,  Semi''nO'tor6)y  is  supposed  to  be  sing- 
ing! The  open  oratory  at  the  right  is  very  animated  on  the 
night  of  setsvbunf  when  many  of  the  townspeople  foregather 
bere  and  scatter  beans  about  to  expel  the  evil  spirits.  In  June 
when  the  wistaria  on  the  near-by  arbor  is  in  bloom  the  sight 
is  a  lovely  one.  An  attraction  which  draws  the  clodhoppers 
hither  is  the  flight  of  15  covered  steps  at  the  left  of  the  main 
shrine;  the  gallery  formed  by  them,  called  Negiriro  or  Svjikai- 
no-ma^  is  set  at  an  angle  instead  of  being  straight,  and  is  attri- 
buted (a  crude  and  manifest  deception)  to  Hvdari  Jingord. 
At  the  left  is  a  much-grafted  tree  (a  species  of  banyaa")  ta^wass^fc 
decaying  trunk  have  been  added  slips  oi  mB»\AX\&,  TWi.'nAvrwk^ 
camellm,  elder,  cherry,  and  maple. 

The  Kasuffa-no-Miya  Festival  attracts  many  viatoTE  tJbovLV.  "^^-T^-wS^*. 
but  u  not  as  intereaUne  to  foreigners  as  the  spectaculai  On  MaUuT\,  ^i»R^ 


558    R(nae  34,  NARA  Wakormiya. 

falls  on  Dec.  17,  and  is  a  sort  of  thanksgiving  procession  oommemorating 
an  episode  in  the  life  of  the  Tokupatoa  ahdgun,  leyasu.  Great  preparations 
are  made  far  in  advance,  and  foreign  visitors  (special  seats  reserved,  50  «en) 
endeavor  to  be  present.  Hundreds  of  men  in  queer  habiliments,  playing 
mediseval  musical  instruments,  and  carrying  bisarre  accoutermenta  form 
the  long  procession,  which  winds  up  through  the  park.  Later  there  is  wrest- 
ling and  horse-racing.  The  latter  appeals  strongly  to  countrymen,  who 
tram  their  fleetest  nags  with  the  hope  of  wresting  prizes  from  the  'city  fel- 
lows.' For  several  nights  after  the  festival  the  park  is  ga^ly  illuminated,  and 
scores  of  fakirs,  peddlers,  and  other  artful  dodgers  assist  the  'movies'  and 
others  to  annex  the  farmers'  cash.  —  The  annual  festival  commemorating 
Skomu-tenndt  founder  of  the  Daibutsu^  is  celebrated  May  8. 

The  Waka-miya,  a  smaller  shrine  2  min.  walk  to  the  right, 
faces  a  low,  darksome  hall  adorned  with  pictures  of  the  36 
famous  poets,  and  enlivened  by  several  dancing-girls  who  for 
one  yen  will  go  through  the  tedious  motions  of  a  so-called 
sacr^  dance  (Axigfwra),  accompanied  by  chanting  and  deplor- 
able music.  A  longer  dance  (a  kind  of  attenuated  monotony) 
costs  more  in  proportion,  as  the  priests  join  in  and  add  to  tne 
discord.  Beyond  the  shrine  the  forest  thickens  and  many  great 
twining  and  climbing  wistaria  may  be  seen  crushing  the  life 
out  of  the  big  forest  trees.  The  maples  hereabout  are  specially 
charmine  in  Nov.  The  tawdry  shrine  at  the  right  Contains 
thousands  of  small  rice-paddles  which  credulous  folks  place 
here  in  the  belief  that  their  names  will  be  taken  note  of  by 
the  gods.  By  continuing  along  the  path  and  climbing  the  hill 
one  may  enjoy  superb  views  over  the  city  and  the  wide  Nara 
Plain  which  spreads  out  beyond  it. 

Travelers  interested  in  seeing  the  old  Buddhist  temples 
scattered  through  the  park  usually  leave  the  Kasuga-no-Miya 
by  the  door  at  tne  left  and  continue  down  at  the  ri^t  through 
the  pretty,  tree-embowered  lane  with  its  numerous  small  shops 
devoted  to  the  sale  of  spotted  deer  made  of  paper-pulp,  and 
many  objects  made  from  deer-horns.  The  well-known  Nara 
ningyo  (Nara  puppets)  in  the  form  of  roughly  chiseled  wooden 
figures,  2  or  3  in.  high,  representing  various  familiar  motives, 
are  relics  of  a  time  when  wood-carving  was  one  of  the  most 
flourishing  industries  of  Nara,  and  toy-making  was  in  its 
infancy.  The  women  shopkeepers  are  as  insistent  as  Bowery 
barkers,  and  prices  are  flexible.  —  Crossing  a  small  bridge 
and  mounting  the  picturesque  steps  beyond  it  one  passes 
(right)  a  rounded  grassy  hill  (1126  ft.)  called  Wakaky^sor-yama 
(*  Young  Grass  Mt.O  from  whose  summit  (seek  the  path  that 
leads  up  under  the  pine  trees  near  the  Tamuke-yama  no 
Hachiman-gu  Shrine)  one  may  command  a  splendid  and 
sweeping  panorama  of  the  surrounding  countiy.  The  annual 
ceremony  of  burning  the  grass  from  this  hill  (occasioned  an- 
ciently by  a  dispute  over  tlaa  boMudary  line  between  the 
Todaiji  and  Kofykuji  Temples^  \,«ke^a  ^\^<i.^  ^JowyX.  ¥ssh.  15 
and  18  ranked  as  one  of  t\ie '  a\\^\i\»'  —  "^V^  ^^^  ^^^.  ^-^^ 
Aung  with  conifers  soon  bnn^B  ou^  \.o  ^  x^  lom  Tasa>BM«|,S5Qs^ 


Safirgwatsu-dd.  NARA  S4.  Rovle.    559 

entrance  to  the  Tamyke-ytma  no  Hachimaiv^t  a  dilapidated 
old  shrine,  with  many  pigeons,  erected  to  the  memory  of 
Emperor  Ojirif  who  is  remarkable  for  having  been  carried 
to  the  throne  on  the  day  of  his  birth  (a.d.  201)  and  carried 
from  it  on  the  day  of  his  death  (in  310),  after  having  ruled 
109  yrs. !  The  beautiful  old  maple  trees  which  surroimd  the 
ehrine  have  caused  it  to  be  perpetuated  in  Japanese  poetry. 
The  lurid  picture  in  the  small  edifice  at  the  left  synibolizes 
a  classical  tale  called  the  *  Ogre's  Arm.'  —  Continuing  through 
the  yard  one  soon  comes  to 

The  *San-gwatsu-do  (* Third  Moon  Temple'),  a  weather- 
beaten  but  still  sturdy  old  structure  (PI.  D.  2,)  celebrated  for 
its  fine  wood  sculptiu*es  (regarded  as  national  treasures).  If 
the  traveler  with  credentials  will  present  them  to  the  bonze  in 
the  near-by  office  the  (usually  closed)  doors  will  be  opened. 
Like  most  of  the  early  temples  of  the  Nara  PlaiUj  this  one  is 
devoid  of  the  glitter  characteristic  of  manv  Buddhist  fanes, 
and  is  plain  to  homeliness.  The  central  shrine  stands  on  a 
broad  plinth  round  which  runs  a  sort  of  ambulatory  with  a 
dirt  floor;  the  great  beams  look  as  if  they  were  hewn  out  during 
the  Stone  Age,  and  but  for  its  collection  of  statuary,  poorness 
like  unto  that  of  Joh^s  lean  but  historical  turkey  could  be  the 
name  for  the  temple.  In  the  center  of  the  wiae  platform  is 
a  grandiose  Kwannon  made  of  cloth  and  lacquer  ascribed  to 
Gyogi-bosatsu ;  at  the  right  and  left  are  Nikkdy  a  Buddhist 
divinity  that  resides  in  the  sun;  and  Gwakkd,  a  resident  of  the 
moon.  The  other  two  large,  calm,  pure  figures  are  Bonten  (the 
Japanese  equivalent  of  Brahma)  and  Taishahurten  (the  Indra 
of  the  Vedic  pantheon).  The  image  at  the  left  is  Jizo;  that 
at  the  right  the  vindictive  Fvdo.  He  is  specially  noteworthy, 
sitting  with  one  leg  doubled  tmder  him,  orandishing  a  sword 
in  his  right  hand,  and  his  mouth  contorted  with  violent  voci- 
feration as  if  the  fire  which  flames  about  him  were  scorching 
him  beyond  endiwance.  The  two  small  figures  in  front  of  him 
are  said  to  be  his  children.  Those  at  the  front  of  the  platform 
are  (right)  Kongo^kishit  and  (left)  MUsujiyaku-rikishi.  The 
guardian  gods  in  armor  and  helmets,  who  assert  authority  and 
divine  power  at  the  four  comers  of  the  plinth,  are  the  Shi- 
tenno  —  masterpieces  in  their  way,  and  by  a  hand  but  little 
less  skillful  than  that  of  the  great  Unkei.  —  On  a  terrace 
reached  by  a  flight  of  stone  steps,  one  side  high-perched,  the 
other  clinging  precariously  to  the  edge  of  the  hillside,  is  the 
bizarre 

Ni-gwatsu-do  (neeng-aht-sue-doh'),  or  'Second  Moon  Tem- 
ple' (or  hall),  almost  filed  by  the  hundreds  of  metal  VasiX^rcA 
which  swing  from  the  overhead  beams.  Etom  ^Sba  %«SiKrg  ^;dl 
the  far  side  one  gets  a  superb  view  of  tlie  mda  i^\3a.  %\x«iV2bf« 
Ing  below  and  beyond  to  the  distaat  mtB.   Cot«p\cwlO\»  'Ov 
tlie  near  foreground  is  the  coloesal  Doibutsu-deu,  axA  \ir»2k^ 


560    Route  S4.  NARA  The  DaibuitfL 

still,  at  the  foot  of  the  hill,  is  the  towering  cryptomeria  in  whose 
long,  horizontal  branches  an  eagle  (so  the  story  runs)  deposited 
the  celebrated  bonze  Ryoben  (b.  689;  d.  773)  — a  writer,  a 
painter,  the  sometime  head  of  the  Todaiji,  and  a  prominent 
figure  in  the  RyobvrShintd  creed.  —  Founded  in  752  but  re- 
peatedly destroyed,  the  temple  is  now  about  200  yrs.  old. 
and  is  dedicated  to  a  well-known  image  oiKwannon,  enshrined 
somewhere  in  the  darksome  interior  and  said  to  possess  the 
peculiar  property  of  curing  anybody  of  anything,  and  of  being 
always  warm  to  the  touch!  ^  that  one's  faith  in  it  may  re- 
main warm  it  is  never  shown.  The  special  services  held  at 
certain  limar  periods  in  its  honor  give  the  temple  its  name. 
Most  conspicuous  of  these  festivals  is  the  TainuUBvre  C  Torch- 
light Assembly '),  a  curious  and  picturesque  affair  held  cus- 
tomarily about  March  12.  A  torchlight  i^rocession  of  men, 
carrying  buckets  of  water  brought  from  Wakasa  Province, 
wends  its  way  to  the  shrine,  and  enters  the  sloping  gallery  or 
appentice  (with  86  steps)  called  Taimatsuno  Roka  ('flam- 
beau Gallery')  behind  the  temple.  The  procession  is  of  very 
ancient  origm  and  the  water  is  supposed  to  guard  the  structure 
against  fire.  Many  devotees  come  from  distant  places  and 
whosoever  can,  takes  home  a  little  of  the  water  to  sprinkle 
over  the  farm  or  garden  as  a  talisman  against  insect  pests. 
Near  the  foot  of  the  steps,  in  a  small  house  at  the  left,  is  a  sa- 
cred well  that  is  opened  only  on  the  night  of  March  12,  and 
is  called  Wakasa  I  because  the  water  is  supposed  to  come  from 
Wakasa  Province.  To  substantiate  this  the  credulous  throw 
rice-husks  in  the  original  spring  in  Wakasa  and  later  find  them 
here! 

The  *Big  Bell  (9  ft.  2  in.  in  diameter,  13i  ft.  high,  and  10  in. 
thick  at  the  rim),  a  colossal  mass  of  metal  (PL  D,  2)  weighing 
48  tons,  was  cast  in  a.d.  732  and  is  the  3d  largest  in  Japan 
(Osaka  1st;  Chion-in  2d).  For  more  than  a  millennium  this 
melodious-voiced  monster  has  stood  here  as  a  companion 
to  the  great  bronze  DaibiUsu,  both  of  which  once  were  con- 
spicuous adjuncts  to  the  Tddaiji  ('Great  Eastern*)  Temple 
which  bum»d  years  ago.  The  time-worn  belfry  dates  from 
the  Kamakura  epoch.  On  payment  of  1-scn  the  traveler  may 
strike  the  bell  with  the  great  beam  which  swings  before  it.  TTie 
tiny  models  in  bronze  cost  10-35  sen. 

The  *Nara-no-Daibutsu  (PI.  C,  1),  a  great  bronze  image 

representing  Roshana  Bvddha  (Birushana-butsu),  the  God 

of  Light,  sitting  on  an  open  lotus  bloom  in  an  attitude  of  calm 

rejection,  is  the  largest  of  its  kind  in  Japan  and  is  perhaps 

one  of  the  greatest  in  the  world.  As  a  work  of  art  it  is  inferior 

to  the  companion  image  at  Kamakura  mA  «<5!^rior  to  that 

of  Kt/dto,  ft  was  erected  in  7^^  at  tV^  *\mtm^^^^  V^SiOBN 

16,827  of  tin;  1954  of  mercuty-,  ^^^^  ^^  ^^ws^ ,  v»5i >Ma«r 


The  KaidcMn,  NARA  Si.  Rauie.    661 

corded  quantity  of  lead;  and  is  said  to  weigh  approx.  500  tons. 
The  gold  and  mercury  were  used  solely  for  gilding.  It  is  53i 
ft.  high;  18  ft.  across  the  breast,  with  a  face  16  by  9i  ft.; 
mouth  and  nose,  each  3  ft.  9  in.  wide;  eye,  3  ft.  11  in.;  and  ear, 
8  ft.  6  in.  The  features  are  Negroid  and  suggest  Hindu  inspir- 
ation. Two  years  were  required  to  cast  it ;  the  Emperor  carried 
earth  with  his  own  hands  to  help  make  the  platform,  and  after 
7  unsuccessful  attempts  the  idol  was  at  last  completed.  The 
head  and  neck  were  cast  in  a  single  shell.  The  body  was  formed 
of  plates  10  by  12  in.  and  6  in.  thick,  built  up  in  the  form  of 
walls  and  cooled  a  foot  at  a  time.  The  temple  erected  the  fol- 
lowing year  to  shelter  it  was  soon  burned.  The  present  colossal 
structure  (one  of  a  long  dynasty)  dates  from  1913  —  at  which 
time  the  image  was  cleaned  and  renovated.  TTie  head  was  so 
badly  damaged  by  one  of  the  early  fires  that  it  was  replaced 
in  1183  by  a  new  one.  The  fine  old  octagonal  bronze  lantern 
of  pierced  and  chiseled  work  dates  from  this  period  and  is 
strongly  suggestive  of  Assyrio-Byzantine  art.  Note  the  curious 
bronze  slab  (called  Hokhe-mandara^f  with  its  sometime  thou- 
sand figurines  of  Buddha  now  badly  disfigured  b^  time.  — 
The  golden  halo  which  backs  the  idol  is  enriched  with  numer- 
ous divinities  of  the  Buddhist  pantheon.  —  The  two  immense 
Nio  in  the  loggia  of  the  great  gateway  are  marvels  of  anatomi- 
cal fidelity  and  are  instinct  with  martial  vitality.  They  are 
often  referred  to  as  the  best  examples  extant  of  the  splendid 
sculpture  of  the  early  Nara  school.  They  differ  slightly  from 
those  one  sees  in  other  parts  of  Japan,  and.  are  perhaps  authen- 
tic specimens  of  the  work  of  Unhei  and  his  master  Kwaikei. 
The  absurd  stone  lions  at  the  back  of  the  loggias  are  (perhaps) 
12th-cent.  Chinese  work.  The  whimsical  Bimuruy  who  is  here 
shown  laughing  Uke  a  toothless  grandmamma,  dates  from  the 
same  remote  era. 

The  Kaidai-in  (PI.  C,  2),  an  ancient  Buddhist  temple  in  the 
old  Nara  style  of  architecture,  with  beams  embedded  in  the 
plastered  walls,  and  a  superimposed  roof  bristling  with  scowl- 
ing demon  antefixes,  stands  on  a  hill  a  short  distance  at  the 
left  of  the  Daihvisu  (temple  oflSce  at  the  right  near  the  Dai- 
btUsu  gate,  where  application  for  admission  must  be  made), 
and  was  founded  about  a.d.  740  by  the  bonze  Rydben,   It  un- 
derwent extensive  reparation  in  1912  but  much  of  its  primitive 
charm  remains.  The  interior  differs  from  all  others  in  Nara  in 
that  from  a  narrow  ambulatory  which  runs  quite  round  it 
there  rises  a  little  terrace  reached  by  numerous  flights  of  steps, 
and  above  this  a  wide  plinth  or  platform  approached  by  other 
steps.  The  whole  forms  a  curious  ensemble  and  reminda  oii^^  q& 
the  teocalli  of  the  ancient  Aztecs.  In  the  cent^  ol  ^^J!afe\^^^«seD^ 
Js  a  large  and  handsome  mahogtuiy-coVor^,  «X.\r^«r^iDAi^^^ 
double-roofed  shrine  (eaho^d)ncYAy  embe\^adAlo3Lm^^x«aR^Q^ 
jng  and  descending  sculptured  dragons,  and  oaa\«flMai%TJv  v» 


562    Rmde  S4,  NARA  The  ShdaO-in. 

gilded  recess  two  small  seated  figures  of  Skaka  and  Miroku  — 
now  dark  with  age  and  said  to  have  belonged  to  Rydben  him- 
self. Guarding  the  comers  of  this  platform  are  curious  Shi- 
tennd  modeled  in  clay  by  Tori  Busshi.  Formerly  on  receiving 
the  appointment  of  chief  priest  to  the  Todaiji^  it  was  custom- 
ary to  ascend  to  this  platform  and  fast  in  silence  for  21  da3rsl 

The  *Shdsd-in  (PL  C,  1),  a  unique  depository  of  ancient  and 
valued  relics  belonging  to  the  Japanese  Imperial  Household, 
stands  in  an  isolated  position  \  M.  N.W.  of  the  DaibtUsu,  in 
the  Tddaiji  grounds,  guarded  by  military  and  unapproachable 
even  by  the  medium  of  weighty  tips.  Unfortunately  it  is 
closed  to  all  except  persons  of  the  hi^est  rank,  and  then  only 
in  Oct.  when  the  treasury  is  opened  for  the  piurpose  of  airine 
the  contents.  Though  tawdry  and  humble  in  appearance,  and 
bearing  a  strong  resemblance  to  a  rambling  old  bam,  it  is  one 
of  the  oldest  and  most  remarkable  museums  of  the  world.  It 
is,  as  the  name  implies  {Shosd  —  solitary;  in  —  building),  the 
single,  or  Chief  Depository,  albeit  at  first  it  consisted  of  two 
separate  buildings,  called  the  Two  Depositories.  Subsequently 
a  connecting  ap^ment  was  made  to  join  them,  and  the  three, 
before  they  were  thrown  into  a  single  structiu^,  were  called 
Mitsugura,  or  the  Three  Depositories.  The  critical  eye  of  the 
architect  will  not  fail  to  note  the  somewhat  curious  inner  con- 
struction, and  the  absence  of  the  triangular  timbers  of  the 
middle  section.  The  date  of  the  erection  of  the  first  building 
is  not  known,  but  it  is  believed  to  have  been  completed  as 
a  temple  storehouse  coincidently  with  the  original  structure 
which  housed  the  gr^&t  DaibiUsu  (see  above).  The  northern 
and  middle  apartments  originally  contained  the  treasures  do- 
nated to  the  Buddha  of  the  Tddaiji  by  the  Imperial  House- 
hold (to  which  it  belonged),  and  from  which  permission  had  to 
be  obtained  before  the  treasiwes  could  be  inspected  or  removed. 
The  doors  were  sealed  with  slips  of  paper  on  which  the  Imperial 
name  was  written,  as  a  sort  of  sign  manual  in  the  handwriting 
of  His  Majesty  the  Mikado,  and  when  an  examination  was 
made,  or  the  relics  aired.  Imperial  messengers  or  ambassadors 
were  dispatched  for  the  purpose  (a  custom  which  still  obtains). 
The  S.  department  was  used  by  the  ecclesiastics  for  other  and 
less  valuable  temple  treasures  and  ornaments,  and  the  door 
thereto  was  sealed  by  slips  of  paper  signed  by  the  chief  priests. 
Many  years  sometimes  passed  without  the  Imperial  seals  being 
disturbed,  and  the  Imperial  records  contain  minute  details 
concerning  the  function  or  ceremony  of  opening  the  buildine. 
When  the  Imperial  Household  terminated  its  relations  wiUi 
the  Tddaiji  officers,  the  structure  and  its  contents  passed 

under  the  sole  care  of  that  depaitcoeviX.  q>1  \Xifc  Qisi^i't. 
Although  repeated  fires  laave  acovvt^^  >.V^  W^ecs^i^\\i.>i5afc 

Tddaiji  compound,  and  sanwnT^ai^  \i?wU\«^  \i^v^^^jpr«aN& 


TheShd^in.  KARA  S^.  Rouk.    563 

the  ShdB^n  incloBure,  the  inviolability  of  the  sacred  seals  has 
never  been  broken.  In  this  it  is  perhaps  unparalleled  in  the 
annals  of  the  world.  The  fact  that  this  flimsy  wooden  build- 
ing, in  a  relatively  isolated  position,  could  pass  through  the 
vicissitudes  of  more  than  1160  vrs.  and  be  protected  solely  by  a 
few  soldiers  and  a  paper  seal  bearing  the  signatures  of  a  long 
dynasty  of  emperors,  is  unique.  Equally  significant  is  the 
fact  that  after  so  great  a  lapse  of  time  the  precious  relics  of 
^  the  early  life-history  of  the  nation  should  be  preserved  intact, 
and  agree  in  the  minutest  detail  with  the  list  that  was  made  of 
them  more  than  a  millenniiun  ago.  The  thought  suggests  a 
special  sort  of  phenomenon  peculiarly  applicable  to  Japan  — 
but  one  indubitably  aided  by  the  fact  that  no  iconoclastic 
aliens  have  ever  successfully  invaded  and  overrun  the  coimtry. 
The  date  of  the  most  ancient  airing  and  examination  of  the 
relics  occurred  in  a.d.  787  and  is  confirmed  by  documentary 
proof.  The  building  was  opened  again  in  793,  811,  and  856, 
and  then  no  record  is  had  of  any  opening  until  1090.  It  was 
repaired  in  1193,  and  opened  again  for  inspection  in  1230-37- 
39,  and  in  1242.  Lightning  struck  the  N.  end  in  1254  and  some 
of  the  imderpinning  was  scorched;  according  to  the  records 
kept  by  the  Todaiji,  a  dragon-god  appeared  and  extinguished 
the  fire,  and  in  appreciation  thereof  the  dragon-shrine  called 
Sugimoto  was  erected  within  the  compound.  In  1258  the 
exhibit  again  saw  the  fight  of  day,  and  in  1261  the  Ex-Em" 
peror  Go-Saga  inspected  the  lot  and  took  out  a  priestly  robe. 
Tradition  avers  tibat  he  was  severely  reprimanded  in  a  dream 
and  that,  conscience-smitten,  he  returned  it.  It  was  not  imtil 
the  15th  year  of  Meiji  that  tne  articles  were  arranged  system- 
atically, on  shelves  and  in  cases.  Certain  damaged  ones  were 
repaired  about  this  time,  and  facsimiles  of  some  of  the  oldest 
and  best  objects  made. 

The  wooden,  tile-roofed  structure  faces  E.,  is  9  ft.  above  the 
ground,  30  ft.  high,  measures  108  ft.  lOi  in.  from  N.  to  S., 
and  is  31  ft.  2i  in.  wide.  The  interior  is  divided  into  three  so- 
called  departments  (with  an  attic),  the  North,  Middle,  and 
South;  each  has  its  own  entrance,  with  double  swinging  doors 
that  open  inward  or  outward.  The  N.  and  S.  sections  are 
constructed  in  the  style  of  an  azekvxa  (granaiv)  with  triangu- 
lar timbers  (squared  balks  cut  diagonally)  laid,  lengthwise  and 
crossed  at  the  comers.  When  the  building  is  opened  for  the 
purpose  of  airing  the  contents,  a  temporary  portable  balcony 
is  erected  alongside  the  three  rooms,  and  a  short  flight  of  steps 
made  to  reach  it ;  both  are  removed  when  it  is  closed  and  sealed. 
The  roof  is  visible  above  the  low  fence  which  girdles  the  in- 
closure.  The  ancient  document  {Kemmoixyjj^Kh^^si.  "^^\asst«DL- 
dum  of  Things  Donated)  recording  tihe  esta^EAi^caxi^QX.  q\.  H^ 
reliquary  and  containing  other  importaat  "maXXjet^  oil  ^^  "'tfc- 
mote  epoch,  is  supplemented  by  numeroYia  aAi^aXto^SL  ^fi«2g««^ 


664    Route  S4.  NARA  The8hiiei^4n. 

in  the  possession  of  the  Household  Department  of  the  Imperial 
Gov't.  Here  also  may  be  seen  the  official  catalogue  (T^yei 
Shukd).  published  by  the  Shimbi  Shoin,  of  T5ky5.  A  few 
facsimile  specimens  of  the  articles  preserved  in  the  Shdaa- 
in  are  on  exhibition  at  the  Imperial  Museum  iaUj^eno Park, 
T6ky6. 

The  Relics  cover  a  wide  range  of  artistic  endeavor.  Time 
has  not  dealt  kindly  with  many  of  them,  and  few  are  as  beau- 
tiful as  the  objects  i^roduced  by  present-day  craftsmen.  The 
most  highly  prized  are  those  left  by  the  Emperor  ShomUf  col- 
lected by  the  Empress  Komyd  at  his  death  and  presented  to 
the  Tomiji  Buddha.  The  prayer  and  the  Ust  which  accom- 
panied the  gift  are  curious  documents,  with  the  date  26th  day, 
6th  month,  and  8th  year  of  the  Tempyo-^hdhd,  signed  by  the 
Empress  and  bearing  489  impressions  of  the  Emperor's  Seal, 
beside  a  long  list  of  signatures  of  temple  officials.  Interesting 
among  the  objects  are  the  round,  hexagonal,  octagonal,  and 
12-sided  mirrors  in  white  bronze,  silver,  and  iron;  decorated 
with  birds,  dragons,  and  other  mythological  beasts,  flowers, 
landscapes,  human  figures,  and  the  like.  Some  have  madre- 
perl  inlaid  in  the  polished  backs  (Korean  work);  others  cloi- 
sonne and  lacquered  figures.  Certain  of  those  which  have  been 
excluded  from  the  light  and  moisture  during  a  thousand  years 
are  as  sharp  and  clear  in  outline  as  when  they  came  from  the 
mould!  Some  are  of  Chinese  origin  and  date  from  the  Sui 
(589  to  618)  and  Tang  (618  to  908)  Dynasties,  Those  with  the 
grape  designs  are  almost  exact  copies  of  the  mirrors  of  the 
Han  Dynasty  (b.c.  202  to  a.d.  221),  but  date  probably  from 
the  time  of  the  Tang  Princes.  Those  with  the  gold  and  silver 
designs  on  the  backs  are  heidatsu-workf  and  those  with  the 
hsLCKs  covered  with  thin  plates  of  silver  on  which  delicate 
images  are  traced,  gin-hai.  The  cloisonne  backs  are  not  to  be 
found  now,  and  undoubtedly  are  exclusive  producta  of  one  of 
the  most  ancient  of  the  Japanese  arts. 

The  Musical  Instruments  are  chiefly  of  Chinese  origin, 
excepting  the  few  Korean  harps  {koto,  or  Skinra-kin,  from 
Shinra,  one  of  the  four  contemporary  kingdoms  of  ancient 
Korea)  made  of  Pauhvmia  wood  with  decorative  figures  done 
in  cut-leaf  of  gold  —  but  now  so  badly  worn  and  time-stained 
that  only  a  faint  trace  of  their  former  beauty  is  visible.  Among 
the  Chinese  instruments  are  some  seven-stringed  koto,  4-  (or 
5-)  stringed  biwaf  4-stringed  genkan  (or  Gekkin,  from  the  name 
of  its  originator),  several  kinds  of  flutes  (the  ones  with  a  clus- 
ter of  re^  are  called  Sho,  those  made  of  a  single  piece  of  bam- 
boo  and  blown  at  the  end  are  Skakuhachi),  harps,  drums  with 
porcelain  bodies,  plectruma  lot  Wie  Uowa  Q»Aft^,  and  so  on. 
Certain  of  the  latter  are  made  ol  aaxiA&X^wAMAwfc^^^^XRA. 
with  figures  of  nacre  inlaid',  olYiew  ate  ^^^"^'^^^^^^ 
with  8apan-wood  and  decorated  Nnt\i  maAte^x\xs«M..^\^^ 


The  Shd8d4.n.  NARA  34.  RatOe.    565 

still  others  are  of  mulberry.  Those  which  cany  ornaments  of 
tortoise-shell  glued  to  the  body  are  skillfuUy  made  and  attrac- 
tive. One  of  the  plectnims  is  made  of  ivory  dyed  crimson  and 
engraved  so  as  to  produce  effective  figures  in  white  (termed 
Bachiru  engraving),  while  another  is  of  sandalwood  carrying 
figurines  formed  of  gold  and  silver  paint.  The  flutes  are  usu- 
ally of  Chinese  and  spotted  bamboo,  covered  with  black  lac- 
quer and  not  unfrequently  decorated  with  heidatsu  figures  in 
gold  and  silver;  the  long  mouthpieces  are  rehcs  of  early  times 
and  are  now  not  employed.  Quite  unusual  are  the  decorations 
on  the  stone,  ivonr,  and  bamboo  flutes  of  curious  models,  with 
floral  designs  skillfully  and  painstakingly  engraved.  It  is  be- 
lieved that  certain  of  these  instruments  are  unique  survivors, 
since  they  are  not  to  be  found  in  any  other  part  of  the  world. 
Even  the  models  seem  to  have  been  destroyed. 

The  old  Masks,  of  which  there  are  upward  of  160,  date 
from  the  Nara  epoch  and  many  were  perhaps  used  at  the  cere- 
monial inauguration  of  the  Great  Bronze  Buddha;  on  the  in- 
side of  certain  of  them  are  the  names  of  the  artisans  who  made 
them,  the  date,  the  uses  to  which  they  were  put,  etc.  Some 
are  made  of  carved  wood,  others  of  hemp  fiber  compressed 
and  dyed;  both  styles  are  decorated  with  polychrome  designs, 
and  some  have  hair,  eyebrows,  and  beard  inserted.  A  wonder- 
ful fidelity  to  nature  and  an  extraordinary  variety  of  expres- 
sion characterize  the  collection,  which  was  manifestly  made 
by  half  a  score  or  more  different  artisans,  since  as  many  names 
are  inscribed  on  them  and  as  many  differences  in  skill  are  ap* 
parent.  Side  by  side  with  demon  masks,  with  long  noses,  impos- 
sible ears,  and  ferocious,  glowering  faces,  are  others  of  amiable 
priests,  laughing  boys  and  girls,  garrulous  crones,  whistlers, 
puling  infants,  and  angry  gods  the  veins  of  whose  suffused  faces 
stand  out  like  whipcords,  and  from  whose  lifelike  eyes  dart 
beams  of  withering  wrath.  Many  of  them  bear  some  allusion 
to  Buddhism,  and  not  a  few  picture  Hindu  divinities  with  Jap* 
anese  attributes. 

The  Games  played  in  the  early  Nara  period  are  illustrated 
by  various  boards  and  accessories.   At  that  time  sugoroku  (a 
kind  of  backgammon)  was  more  popular  than  the  present  0). 
and  certain  of  the  boards  are  beautiful  examples  of  madreperl 
inlay;  the  disks  are  of  ivory.    The  ^o-boards,  of  mulberrv 
sandalwood,  are  marked  out  with  ivoiy  and  decorated  witii 
ivory,  tortoise-shell,  nacre,  etc.   Conspicuous  among  the  cos- 
tumes are  the  ceremonial  robes  and  moleskin  belt  of  the  Em^ 
peror  Shomuj  with  numerous  theatrical  robes  of  the  period. 
iTie  Imperial  shoes  were  of  the  Chinese  style  decot^Xj^  -^iiSJObl 
gold,  pearls,  and  precious  jewels.  In  one  8ect\OTL\)b!et€i\^%iTEMr 
eellaneous  collection  of  brushes,  India-ink,  iTkk.-«\A»ttfia,  ^cwc'^RSw* 
carpets,  pillows,  some  sword-canes,  an  aasoTtnieiiV.  o"^  «Oi«^ 
words  and  sbeath'kmveB  and  a  familiar  set  compTisto%«w««* 


£66    Route  S4.  NARA  The  Shdad^n. 

blades,  a  file,  a  gimlet,  and  a  chisel.  The  assortments  of  inoense- 
bumers  and  fire-rbowls  differ  but  little  in  shape  and  materials 
from  those  of  modem  times,  but  the  folding  screens  embellished 
with  the  feathers  of  birds  bear  a  singular  likeness  to  Hawaiian 
and  Aztec  work.  The  laces  and  hands  of  the  human  figures 
are  painted  in  colors,  the  feathers  being  used  to  depict  the 
clothing.  The  art  came  to  Japan  from  China  in  the  7th  cent., 
and  Heman  CorUz  found  it  developed  to  a  high  degree  of  per- 
fection by  the  Purapecka  Indians  of  Michoacan  SUUe^  when  he 
invaded  Mexico  in  1519-20.  One  of  the  screens  dates  from  the 
8th  year  of  the  Tempyosheho  (a.d.  757).  Among  other  prized 
relics  of  this  era  are  two  bronze  statuettes  of  Buddha;  a  curious 
boaatsu  painted  in  monochrome  on  hemp  cloth;  some  lotus 
flowers  of  leather  each  with  32  petals  painted  with  resplendent 
human  figures,  flowers,  and  birds;  and  numerous  articles  of 
gold,  silver,  white  bronze,  copper,  brass,  sahari  (a  bell-metal 
compounded  of  copper,  lead,  and  tin),  iron,  tin,  etc.  Some  are 
hammered,  some  cast,  and  not  a  few  skillfully  and  attractively 
finished.  Certain  of  the  bowls,  plates,  drinking-cups,  incense- 
burners,  flagons,  etc.,  are  decorated  with  precious  jewels  set  in, 
and  a  tracery  so  fine  and  delicate  that  they  equal  modem  work. 
Among  the  Weapons  of  quaint  designs  are  many  antique 
bows  (yumi)  with  quivers  of  feathered  arrows,  the  feathers 
being  tipped  with  the  wings  of  iridescent  beetles.  Some  of  the 
bows  are  made  of  catalpa  (the  American  Indian  term  for  the 
species  cultivated  in  Japan  under  the  name  azusa)^  and  are 
called  Azusa-yumi  (a  word  often  used  in  connection  with  the 
fidelity  and  fortitude  of  samurai).  The  arrows  with  ball  heads 
are  called  kabura  (turnip)  from  their  resemblance  to  this  vege- 
table. Among  the  many  swords  are  straight  ones,  of  a  Chinese 
type,  beautifully  inlaid  with  gold,  silver,  and  copper.  The 
scarcity  of  iron  in  Old  Japan  caused  it  to  be  ranked  with  the 
semi-precious  metals,  and  it  is  seen  here  superimposed  on 
many  brilliant  surfaces.  Rhinoceros-horn,  aloe-  and  sandal- 
wood, and  shark-skin  form  the  covering  of  many  of  the  sword- 
hilts,  the  sheaths  being  coated  chiefly  with  lacquer  with  lith- 
arge paintings  of  birds,  flowers,  etc.  The  collection  comprises 
many  javelins. (te6ofco)  with  straight  heads  and  staffs  wound 
with  cord.  Those  with  the  oddly  curved  heads  were  peculiar 
to  the  time,  and  are  not  seen  now.  Among  the  host  of  boxes 
of  all  sizes  are  many  of  Korean  workmanship  differing  but 
little  from  that  of  the  present.  As  a  rule  they  are  stiff  and 
awkward  and  not  unlike  certain  12th-  and  13th-cent.  reliquaries 
of  European  make,  except  that  the  tops  are  flat  instead  of  being 
arched,  and  the  madreperl  and  other  embellishments  are  set 
In  instead  of  showing  in  low  lelid.  T^^ift  ^oVd  axid  silver  designs 
stanaped  on  the  leatner-work  on  cct\.a!m  ol  ^Oci^Xiwi.^  ta^  ^sxav- 
oualy  like  the  early  Spanish-MooraYi^oTVAV^  ^^W  W58^ 
accentuating  the  resemblajice.    ^o\,e  \\ie  ^^  ^<^  ^.^^\fc 


TheShdsd-in.  NARA  Si.  RouU.    567 

mirror-box  made  of  lacquered  leather  adorned  with  tortoise- 
shell  and  further  embellished  with  heidatsu  figures  in  gold  and 
silver.  A  box  made  of  aloe-wood  is  inlaid  with  wood  figures; 
another  shows  such  a  skillful  manipulation  of  litharge  that  a 
millennium  has  not  dimmed  it.  A  bizarre  specimen  of  early 
Hindu  work  is  a  box  of  aloe-wood  painted  and  covered  with  a 
thin  sheet  of  crystal,  on  an  ivory  stand  with  incised  floral  de- 
signs. Near  this  is  one  ornamented  with  the  carapace  of  a  tor- 
toise with  outlines  of  gold  and  silver,  and  with  tiny  lozenge- 
shaped  wood  plates,  resting  on  an  engraved  ivory  stand.  One 
of  the  most  striking  in  the  collection  is  a  small  box  of  petrifi^ 
wood  with  gold-dust  painting,  the  grain  of  the  wood  being  out- 
lined with  fine  gold  pencilings.  Many  of  the  boxes  have  gold 
or  silver  locks,  and  rich  brocade  linings,  and  were  made  man- 
ifestly to  hold  articles  of  priestly  craft  —  the  peculiar  baton 
(often  of  jadeite)  carried  by  Buddhist  priests  and  called  n^ot; 
the  shvbij  or  ceremonial  brush,  the  trident  symbolical  of  con- 
dign punishment,  etc.  Curious  among  these  are  some  of  sharp 
and  wonderfully  preserved  iron,  larger  than  those  used  at  pres- 
ent, made  at  a  period  when  they  were  used  as  material  as  well 
as  spiritual  weapons. 

The  Buddhist  Sutras  are  inferior  to  other  collections  in 
the  Empire,  and  are  much  less  attractive  than  those  preserved 
at  Koyasan.  The  Buddhist  images  carved  of  wood  or  cast 
in  bronze  differ  from  modem  work  only  in  the  Hindu  or  Chi- 
nese features  —  indicative  of  their  foreign  origin.  The  many 
bells  of  an  alloy  of  copper  and  gold  are  said  to  have  formed 
part  of  the  decoration  of  the  DaibvJtsu  at  the  time  of  the  in- 
augural ceremony.  Noteworthy  among  the  numerous  altar 
fitments  is  an  unusually  fine  silver  bowl  (one  of  the  choicest 
pieces  in  the  museum)  portraying  a  himting  scene,  the  delicate 
engraving  of  which  is  carried  all  over  the  outer  sinf ace.  The 
constant  recurrence  of  rhinoceros-horn  as  the  medium  out  of 
which  so  many  of  these  ancient  articles  were  fashioned  points 
as  much  to  the  taste  of  the  epoch  as  to  their  Indian  origin. 
Agate,  crystal,  and  plain  glass  figure  largely  in  the  materials 
composing  the  cups,  jugs,  flasks,  safce-cups,  and  what-not  dis- 
played in  one  case,  where  there  are  also  a  number  of  bizarre 
flagons  with  big  bodies  and  small  mouths,  and  foreign  bottles 
in  braided  cases,  lacquered  or  decorated  with  birds,  beasts,  or 
flowers.  Among  the  archaic  jugs  and  pitdiers  are  some  of  dark 
bronze  covered  with  the  fine  patina  of  a  thousand  years.  The 
lifeless  conventionalism  in  the  antique  style  of  decoration  of 
certain  of  these  objects  is  very  striking;  the  mouth  of  one  of 
the  pitchers  is  that  of  the  human  face,  with  a  further  T«««cEe 
blance  worked  out  in  a  crude  way.  AnotVieT  ^<K79^  \)^<fe\i»wr3 
heak  of  some  bird  of  prey,  and  still  anotbeT  t\ifc  Vss^petl^RX.  e«or 

ception  and  the  unskilled  handling  Of  bot\i  IkxAa  wad  TOfidoNnft. 

in  snort  far  from  its  preaent  development. 


568    RouU  Si.  NARA  The  ShM^in. 

The  collection  of  Ancient  Pottbst  embraces  more  unique 
imd  uncopied  specimens  than  any  other  in  Japan.  Age  and 
ugliness  are  their  most  striking  characteristics.  Here  one  may 
see  genuine  specimens  of  very  earlv  Korean  and  Chinese 
wares,  certain  of  the  latter  covered  with  a  green  spotted 
enamel  popular  in  the  opening  years  of  the  Christian  era.  The 
specimens  of  unpolished  cloisonne  (nagashi-jippo)  date  from 
the  8th  cent,  and  are  among  the  earliest  known  pieces  of  cloi- 
sonne enamel  preserved  in  Japan.  Those  with  floral  designs 
in  colors  separated  by  cloison  outlines  in  fine  gold  wire,  with 
brilliant  green,  reddish-brown,  and  indigo  enamels,  date  from 
a  later  period.  —  The  assortment  of  embroideries  and  woven 
stuffs  has  not  improved  with  age.  The  brocades  are  chiefly 
Chinese,  and  are  badly  faded.  The  rarest  among  them  is  a 
tapestry  (perhaps  of  Persian  origin)  depicting  foreigners  on 
horseback  huntmg  lions.  There  are  numerous  fragments  of 
priestlv  robes,  Indian  carpets,  etc.  The  old  horse-trappings 
Dear  all  the  ear-marks  of  Chinese  influence,  and  the  saddle  is 
indisputably  Mongolian.  The  latter  is  decorated  with  cloud 
shapes  painted  in  gold  and  silver  dust,  the  seat  is  covered  with 
a  silk  brocade  cusmon,  and  the  queer  old  stirrups,  of  black  iron 
with  silver  inlf^s  of  birds  and  flowers,  are  shaped  to  fit  Chi- 
nese shoes.  —  In  one  apartment  is  a  collection  of  crude  agri- 
cultural implements,  and  tools  used  in  various  industries.  The 
plough  was  evidently  made  for  a  museum,  since  it  is  of  wood 
and  iron,  with  crimson  handles  and  floral  adornments  amid  gold 
and  silver  clouds.  The  specimens  of  calligraphy  near  by,  as 
well  as  the  old  flags  and  other  articles,  are  preserved  purely 
for  their  historic  associations.  The  lacquer  pieces  are  of  in- 
terest chiefly  because  the  keidatsu  method  employed  in  their 
decoration  is  much  superior  to  present-day  work.  It  consisted 
of  laying  pieces  of  gold  or  silver  foil  upon  the  surface  of  the 
lacquer,  coating  them,  then  rubbing  the  lacquer  until  the  metal 
reappeared  near  the  surface.  The  thin  sheets  were  often  em- 
bellished with  hair-line  drawings  executed  with  astonishing 
skill.  The  many  relics  showing  this  form  of  art-work  are  highly 
prized. 

The  articles  at  once  best  preserved  and  of  the  greatest  in- 
trinsic beauty  are  those  fashioned  of  Semi-precious  Stones 
(gyoku),  many  of  cryptocrystalline  quartz,  and  all  perhaps  of 
Chinese  origin.   Chalcedony  flutes,  tall  chalice-shaped  diink- 
ing-cups,  many  beautiful  trays,  sard  cups,  and  objects  engraved 
with  refinement  and  skill,  characterize  the  collection,  which, 
because  of  the  beauty  of  the  medium  and  the  archaic  designs, 
appeals  strongly  to  the  lover  of  glyptics.  Accompanying  the 
exhibit  IB  a  lot  of  early  European  ^aa«w^^—  dnnking-cups, 
bottles,  dishes,  etc.,  white  and  coXoi^d.  e«t\.^mQ.V^'^\swji\& 

oany  incised  figures  Uke  t\ie  Pa-^^^I^J^^^^?^^;'^^^^ 
the  cups  are  adorned  wilYi  leaves,  ^\i^^>  «^^  ^'^'^  ^^-  ^^^ 


Nanenrdo.  NARA  S4.  Baut$.    560 

thought  that  this  rare  and  perhaps  unique  7th-  and  8th-oent. 
Roman  work  was  brought  to  Chma  by  JPersian  trading-ships, 
or  from  Central  Asia  by  caravan.  The  white  agate  articles  are 
Chinese,  as  are  also  the  amber  objects  and  the  fish-shaped 
toys.  The  Japanese  crystal  balls,  several  of  which  are  unfin- 
ished, are  not  noteworthy.  Beside  the  above  there  are  hosts  of 
minor  articles  too  numerous  to  catalogue. 

The  K6fuku-ji  (PI.  B,  2),  a  Buddhist  temple  (Ho88d  sect), 
long  known  as  one  of  the  richest  reliquaries  of  wood  sculpture 
in  Japan,  is  now  but  a  melancholy  simulacrum  of  a  one-time 
powerful  and  perhaps  splendid  institution.  It  was  founded 
originally  (by  Nakatomi  Kamatari  in  710)  as  the  Yamashina- 
dera,  at  Yamashinay  near  Ky5to.  Fujiioara  FvhUo  caused  it 
to  be  transported  bodily  to  Nara,  where  in  due  time  it  ac- 
quired fame  and  wealth.  In  the  Middle  Ages  it  possessed  a 
small  army  of  hired  mercenaries  who  on  more  than  one  occasion 
carried  disorder  and  confusion  as  far  as  the  Palace  gates  at 
Kyoto.  The  original  structure  was  burned  along  with  many 
of  its  art  treasures  in  1717,  some  of  the  statues  that  were  saved 
being  taken  at  the  time  to  Kyoto,  Tokyo,  and  to  other  places 
in  Nara.  While  those  which  remain  are  masterpieces,  time  has 
dealt  no  less  leniently  with  them  than  with  the  militant  bro- 
therhood that  once  prayed  to  them.  The  Ktmdd,  a  dumpy, 
ugly  building  with  a  superimposed  roof  smaller  than  the  under 
one,  has  an  interior  so  humble  that  the  ambulatory  is  of  plahi 
dirt,  and  the  beams  are  merely  rough-hewn.  The  images  oc- 
cupy a  sort  of  granite  plinth  3  ft.  or  more  above  the  floor,  and 
are  so  large  that  they  leave  scant  room  for  aught  else.  The 
immense  gilded  and  seated  image  of  Shaka  is  flanked  by  the 
customary  group  of  inexorable  demon-quelling  guardians,  con- 
spicuous among  them  (right)  a  Senju-Kwannon  in  the  act  of 
benediction,  and  at  the  ripht  of  this  a  YakufhbosaUu.  The 
smaller  Amida  at  the  left  is  flanked  by  Yakujd,  a  companion 
figure  to  that  at  the  right.  The  gayly  deoorat^,  ensnrined 
figure  is  Benten.  The  extraordinarily  eroressive  martial  stat- 
ues of  the  Shi'tenno  at  the  4  corners  of  the  platform  are  as- 
cribed to  Unkei,  The  two  colossal  sculptured  heads  in  the 
natural  wood,  representing  Indra  and  Bnuna,  though  accred- 
ited by  the  priests  to  an  unknown  7th-oent.  Korean  carver, 
are  unmistakably  Japanese,  and  are  more  likely  the  work  of 
Unkei^s  adept  pupil  Jokahu.  The  smaller  images  of  Jizo,  Hd- 
nen  Shoniriy  etc.,  are  mediocre. 

The  Nanen-dd  (PI.  B,  2),  an  octagonal  shrine  (0th  in  the  list 
of  the  33  holy  places  sacred  to  Kwarmon)  with  a  tiled  roof, 
demon  antefixes,  and  a  hdshuHMhiamaj  contains  som^  \iQ<»!c\& 
statuary,  conspicuous  among  which  is  a  b\ig.e  aesA/e^  KMXiiivMya 
(attributed  to  Kokei,  a  contemporary  oi  Unkei^  on  ^^  ''^ft^. 
form  said  (erroDeouBly)  to  have  been  erected  \>N  KcfevDox*^^- 
Tlie  Gods  of  the  Four  Directions  are  won\i  vooVva^  «X^>oiN^^ 


570    RmOe  34,  NARA  TokonrdS, 

tliey  are  less  noteworthy  than  the  six  images  (perhaps  by 
KiDoikei)  of  seated  prieste  who  '  in  ample  robes,  which  spread 
about  them  in  supple  folds,  holding  censers  in  their  h^uids, 
carry  on  their  meditations  and  their  prayers  in  the  shadow  of 
this  retreat.  Their  faces  have  a  very  individual  force  of  ex- 
pression, their  glass  eyes  all  the  intensity  of  life.  The  lines 
of  the  mouth  show  such  a  resigned  bitterness,  the  veins  of  the 
forehead  tso  much  knowledge,  that  it  makes  one  uneasy  to  feel 
all  these  keen  looks  encountering  one's  own,  penetrating  one 
with  all  the  mute  interrogation  which  the  meditation  of  cen- 
turies has  enriched  with  such  profound  thought.  One  of  them 
has  a  proud,  energetic  countenance,  calm  and  steadfast,  en- 
visaging life  with  a  direct  gaze;  another,  with  clasped  hiuids,  is 
a  sublime  representation  of  fervent  prayer  in  his  intense  con- 
centration of  all  the  powers  of  thought;  yet  another,  with  pain- 
fully contracted  features,  is  pathetic,  a  poor,  distracted  soul, 
seeking  some  moral  standpoint  earnestly  desired  and  fervently 
implored.  All  these  statues  are  haunting  in  their  expressive 
beauty  and  plastic  nobility.  They  are  among  the  purest  and 
most  beautiful  sculptures  in  the  world,  the  most  grandiose  in 
their  breadth  and  simplicity,  the  most  touching  in  their  inti- 
mate sincerity.  They  show  us  that  prior  to  the  Kamakura 
period  an  admirable  art  flourished  in  Japan  under  the  Fuji- 
wara  of  the  11th  and  12th  centuries.*  {Gaston  Migeon,)  —  Fac- 
ing the  Nanen-dOf  across  the  park,  is  the  weather-beaten  old 

T0KON-D6,  dedicated  to  Yakushi-Nyorai  and  containing  a 
figure  of  this  divinity  backed  by  a  strikingly  handsome  gilded 
mandorla  enriched  with  a  host  of  figurines  sculptured  in  low 
relief.  The  flanking  images  are  the  Indian  goddess,  BemaUen, 
and  TaishakUf  the  Brahman  Indra.  The  excellently  carved 
Shi'tennOj  and  the  two  huge  figures  of  Amida-butsu  against  the 
wall,  are  too  good  for  their  tawdry  environment.  Facing  this 
edifice  is  a  curious  old  pine  tree  (called  the  HancMio-matsUy 
or  flowering  pine)  said  to  have  been  planted  by  Kobo-Daishi 
nearly  1100  yrs.  ago!  The  wide-spreading  branches,  nearly  100 
ft.  long,  are  upheld  by  stout  poles,  and  the  tree  is  a  worthy 
rival  of  the  Karasaki  Pine  which  overlooks  Lake  Biwa. 

The  big  neutral-tinted,  5-storied  Pagoda,  165  ft.  high, 
which  rises  near  by  from  a  granite  plinth  54  ft.  sq.  and  which 
is  surmounted  by  a  bronze  demon-arrester,  dates  from  1462 
(30  yrs.  before  Columbus  discovered  America)  and  occupies 
the  site  of  an  ancient  one  erected  sometime  during  the  8th 
cent.  The  peculiar  architectural  features  of  its  prototype 
have  been  followed  in  this  one,  which,  with  its  rakish  uptilted 
roof  corners,  its  double  demon  antefixes,  bronze  wind-bells, 

and  the  like,  possesses  a  jaunl^  aii  ^\i\ck\ife\\sa  its  great  age. 

The  smaller,  3-8toried  pagoda,  ueai  \i>f ,  ^«&  et^^Xe^  ^x.  ^  txsjm&l 

/ater  period.  ,    .  ^     v.^  -  -a 

The  traveler  with  time  to  Bt>ate  ma>j  e\^\.  ^  ^^^^»»^^  ^«^ 


The  Museum,  NARA  34.  Route.    571 

of  admission  from  the  hotel  manager  and  visit  Mr.  T.  Sekki'b 
attractive  little  Landscape  Garden,  not  far  from  the  museum. 
There  is  an  upper  and  lower  pond,  quaint  bridges,  a  tea-house 
in  the  sedate  chorno-yu  style,  a  lotus-pool,  iris-bed,  banks  of 
azaleas,  a  host  of  lovely  cherry  blooms  in  April,  and  scarlet- 
coated  maples  in  Nov.,  and  a  near-by  rose-garden  which  is  a 
delight  to  lovers  of  such.  It  is  a  deligntful  retreat,  with  taste- 
ful walks  and  vistas,  and  a  charm  in  harmony  with  every 
season.  •  The  genial  owner  dwells  on  the  premises  in  an  ador- 
able little  house  to  which  foreign  visitors  are  welcome,  pro- 
viding they  will  sip  a  cup  of  tea  in  a  pretty  little  room  in  the 
formal  Japanese  style,  the  while  enjoying  from  the  balcony 
a  view  which  the  average  Occidental  would  not  deem  possible 
in  so  restricted  a  space. 

The  *Nara  Museum  {Hakubutsu-kwan)  is  housed  (PI.  C,  2) 
in  a  new  building  (open  from  9  to  4;  fee,  3  sen)  erected  spe- 
cially for  the  purpose  in  the  park  (10  min.  walk  from  the 
hotel)  and  contains  a  small  but  choice  collection  of  genuine 
antiquities  which  the  traveler  —  particularly  if  he  be  inter- 
ested in  glyptic  art  —  will  not  wish  to  miss.  It  has  been  re- 
ferred to  by  art  critics  as  one  of  the  richest  treasuries  of  wood 
sculptm^e  in  the  world,  and  albeit  some  of  the  wonderful  old 
masterpieces  of  Kobo-Daishi,  An-mmnij  Kobeny  the  ^reat 
Unkei  and  his  talented  son  Tdkei,  etc.,  and  of  certain  Chinese 
and  Indian  sculptors  who  died  more  than  a  millennium  ago, 
are  badly  vermiculated  and  are  falling  into  decay,  they  have 
not  lost  all  their  extraordinary  charm. 

Nara  stands  in  the  front  rank  as  the  shrine  of  sculpture  in  Japan,  for  it 
was  in  and  near  the  old  capital  that  the  first  workshops  of  the  great  wood- 
carvers  and  bronze-founders  were  set  up,  not  a  few  of  them  in  the  shadow  of 
temples  and  monasteries,  or  under  Imperial  protection.  As  the  treasures 
turned  out  of  them  were  mostly  hieratic,  they  gravitated  naturally  into  the 
hands  of  priests  or  emperors,  which  accounts  for  the  fact  that  those  which 
have  come  down  to  us  to  fotm  the  nucleus  of  the  present  collection  have 
been  obtained  from,  or  loaned  .by,  some  temple^  or  form  part  of  some  royal 
collection  or  group  regarded  as  national  treasures.  Many  of  them  are  superb 
and  satisfying  examples  of  a  unique  art  in  which  the  Japanese  have  ever 
been  preeminent,  and  in  which  the  earl^  masters  endeavored  to  give  form 
to  the  noble  visions  which  the  new  religion  of  Buddha  opened  to  them.  So 
perfect  was  the  skill  of  these  old  masters,  so  subtle  their  imagination,  and  so 
speedy  their  execution,  that  the  museum  (one  of  the  three  greatest  in  Japan) 
possesses  in  its  storerooms  ten  times  as  many  sculptured  wood  images  as 
they  have  room  to  display,  and  30  times  as  many  kakemonos  as  are  shown 
in  the  space  devoted  to  them.  While  the  display  of  statuary  ia  practically 
permanent,  the  kakemonos  and  other  paintings  are  changed  about  every 
60  days  —  not  only  to  present  a  more  varied  assortment,  but  also  to  prevent 
their  ruin  by  strong  sunlight,  and  other  atmospheric  agencies. 

At  rare  intervals  certain  of  the  statues  or  other  relics  are  sent  to  the  Kydto 
or  Tokyo  Museums,  thus  to  give  them  a  wider  circulation;  and  sometimes 
special  ones  are  returned  to  the  temples  to  which  they  belong.  Again,  certtdn 
public-spirited  men  place  private  coUectioDS  of  dinetent  kinidA  m  ^^^tgcot 
seum  for  a  time,  so  that  the  public  may  enioy  them.  T\i%  Qc:fi\«^c(&.5A  V>i^<V 
Jaga,  in  kakemono  and  makemono  form,  by  aitlBts  of  ^e  vsASi^A  OYaxASA  VDA> 

-'    -    '  iATUtejjtkWl — 


Japaaese  aoboola,  is  leas  vaJuable  than  those  in  the  KyftYA  s^a^'^'*^*^  J*¥ScL 
uma,  Some  of  the  bronzea  date  from  times  as  eatAy  as  tJie  Su\ko  '^«m^VS«w 


572    Route  $4.  NARA  FirU  Boom. 


646),  and  are  ezcenent  and  well-preaenred  specimens  of  an  art  that  evidently 

3>rang  up  sc^on  after  Japu&'s  definite  establishment  as  a  nation.  The  coUec- 
on  is  practically  free  from  forgeries,  and  where  there  is  uncertainty  about 


the  authentidty  of  an  exhibit  it  is  carefully  noted.  The  classification  in 
both  Japanese  and  English  is  of  particular  benefit  to  the  bi-lingual  scholsur, 
for  purposes  of  comparison,  etc.  In  rooms  set  apart  for  it  is  a  small  but 
excellent  collection  of  early  porcelains,  and  some  beautiful  little  gem-Uke 
shrines  well  worth  looking  at.  At  present  the  first  three  of  the  13  ground- 
floor  rooms  are  devDted  to  wood,  bronse,  lacquer,  and  aUied  sculptures,  and 
they  are  by  far  the  most  interesting.  A  number  of  skilled  wood-carvers 
(some  of  them  the  direct  descendants  of  the  old-time  workers)  still  pursue 
their  profession  at  Nara,  and  they  are  referred  to  at  the  end  of  this  article.  — 
The  museum  officials  are  usually  willing  to  show  special  k(ikemono»t  etc., 
to  .interested  persons  with  credentials. 

The  First  Room  contains  a  number  of  glass  cases  in  which 
the  ancient  sculptural  art  of  Yamato  is  seen  at  its  best;  the  most 
striking  figures  (among  the  best  in  the  museum)  are  those  in 
the  hu^e  central  case,  as  they  command  and  hold  the  attention 
by  their  oddity.  Certain  of  them  are  frankly  Hindu  in  chaj*- 
acter,  with  long,  strai^t  bodies,  flattish  faces,  pointed  ears, 
blunt  features,  thick  lips,  and  with  torsos  girded  with  strik- 
ingly graceful  draperv  that  falls  in  straight  folds  to  the  feet. 
Some  hold  vases  witn  lotus  flowers  in  tneir  hands,  and  the 
imagination  easily  pictures  them  the  prototypes  of  the  original 
teachers  who  came  to  Japan  from  India  to  implant  more 
firmly  the  teachings  of  Buddha;  their  names  indicate  that  they 
were  sain^  (bosatsus)  and  the  taJl,  oddly  shaped  pierced  man- 
dorlas  which  rise  at  the  back  of  their  heads  confirm  this.  The 
most  singular  figure  in  the  motley  group  is  the  Kwameon-bo- 
satsu  (a  Buddhist  saint)  loaned  by  the  Horyu-ji;  a  tall,  willowy, 
sylph-like  figure  resembling  an  Egyptian  goddess,  of  carved 
wood  (sculptor  unknown)  with  excellently  chiseled  drapery 
that  falls  below  the  feet.  Of  almost  equal  merit  is  the  Kdkuzd- 
hosatsu  (a  Buddhist  deity  that  resides  in  space;  one  of  the  per- 
sonifications of  wisdom)  at  the  left,  manifestly  by  the  same 
artist  and,  like  its  companion,  more  than  1200  yrs.  old.  The 
splendidly  vigorous  and  imposing  images  at  the  comers,  Kd- 
mokur'tenj  Jikoku^eUj  Tamon-teny  and  Zoch^terit  the  four  great 
kings  that  protect  the  world  at  the  cardinal  points,  are  in- 
stinct with  fierce  energy  and  implacable  purpose,  and.  along 
with  the  tall  figure  of  Fukuken  saku  are  the  sole  survivors  of  a 
bizarre  style  of  sculpture  popular  during  the  8th  cent.  The 
full-length  statues,  m  the  flat  wall-cases,  of  the  disciples  of 
Shaka,  are  manifestly  Hindu  and  are  ascribed  to  Mondoshi,  an 
8th-cent.  sculptor  of  Indian  origin.  They  are  noteworthy  ex- 
amples of  a  style  commonly  employed  prior  to  the  12th  cent. 
After  carving  a  figure  in  wood,  or  building  it  up  on  a  skeleton 
framewoik  (one  of  which  is  shown  in  the  case)  it  was  covered 
with  strong  canvas,  then  lacqvieied)  the  resulting  image  being 
light  and  practically  imperiBhab\e.  'T^i^  «»\.^\m^  Kt^^tn^  qC  the 
cases  wear  helmets  and  armoi,  and  e.om^\iBN^  ^^«r5«^  ^\^ 
their  loim.    Some  are  painted  andVa^qvi^x^d  \xl\i^3w3«.^^^^ 


PirBt  Boom.  NARA  S4.  RtnOe.    573 

gold  in  low,  rich  tones,  to  which  time  has  added  a  harmonious 
patina.  AshurorOf  wiUi  3  faces  and  6  slender  arms,  is  verv 
striking,  while  Kakura-o  (the  Indian  bird-pod,  Ganida)^  with 
a  beak  like  a  vulture,  is  strangely  like  certam  of  the  old  Aztec 
gods.  Kinaroro  has  Mongoloid  features,  and  Htba-Karoro  is 
distinctivelv  15th-cent.  Spanish.  All  the  figures  are  curious 
survivals  of  a  period  when  the  virile  martial  spirit  found  fre- 
quent expression  in  these  guardians  of  the  cherished  doctrines 
of  Buddha. 

The  figures  in  the  opposite  case  are  much  less  warlike; 
'  Rakora,  a  gentle  and  ingenuous  figure,  with  closed  eyes  and 
folded  arms,  is  draped  in  an  ample  cloak  with  black  stripes, 
falling  in  supple  folds  over  a  red  skirt;  he  wears  wooden  shoes 
turned  up  at  the  toes.  Furona  is  a  figure  in  which  the  antique 
sentiment  of  the  finest  Greek  statues  appears:  the  mouth  is 
somewhat  full,  the  eves  widely  opened,  the  naked  feet  display 
their  admirable  modeling  in  plaited  wood  sandals,  the  breast 
is  bare,  the  ribs  well  indicated  and  also  cunningly  modeled; 
a  mantle  passes  over  the  left  arm  in  superb  transversal  folds. 
Svbodaif  with  a  round  head,  chubby  face,  and  bare  feet  in  san- 
dals, is  draped  in  a  full  striped  mantle,  from  which  the  supple 
left  hand  emerees.  Kaseiv-en  is  the  most  expressive  of  alt:  he 
is  speaking  with  a  very  mournful  air;  the  teeth  are  visible  be- 
tween the  parted  lips;  his  mantle  has  slipped  from  his  bare 
shoulders,  and,  passmg  from  the  hip  over  the  left  wrist,  falls 
in  folds  no  sculptor  has  surpassed  in  nobility.  These  statues 
are  strangely  moving  in  their  grand  simplicity,  achieving  as 
they  do  the  expression  of  spiritual  life,  beauty  of  drapery  and 
attitude,  and  a  general  verity  so  absolute  that  no  ethnic  bar- 
riers interpose  between  our  emotion  and  theirs.'  (GasUm 
Migeon.)  —  Mokkeuren,  in  the  same  case,  is  sadly  mutilated, 
but  is  expressive.  The  curious  bronze  slab  {Hokke-mandara) 
in  one  of  the  cases  (a  precious  relic  which  dates  from  the  7th 
cent,  and  belongs  to  the  Hase-dera  Temple),  is  one  of  the  ear- 
liest examples  of  religious  bronze  worK,  displaying  in  bas- 
relief  a  Buddhist  temple,  figures  of  the  Shi4ennd.  and  (for- 
merly) a  thousand  tiny  Buddhas  —  some  of  whicn  are  now 
effaced.  The  lower  right-hand  comer  has  been  broken  and 
replaced  bv  a  strip  of  wood  quite  like  the  main  body.  The  old 
wood  masks  in  this  room  are  8th-cent.  work  and  are  worth 
looking  at.  The  model  of  the  5-story  pagoda  shows  the  early 
Nara  style  of  architecture,  with  beams  sunk  in  the  plaster. 
The  clay  figures  in  one  of  the  cases  belong  to  the  set  in  the 
pagoda  at  HdryU^ji  and  are  by  Tori  Busshi  (7th  cent.).  One 
of  the  bronze  statuettes  of  Kwameonrbosateu  in  a  caai^  ^aXm^ 
from  the  Suiko  period.  Another  bronze  consvdet^  ^  ^Qt^aX 
worth  18  the  small  Ggure  of  Buddha  when  boni  ^xcASciet  ^^'^'^^^J' 


looJdDg  inf&nt)  atanding  by  a  big  bowl  in  l\ie  ceuXxsX  eaafc.  J\s^ 
feated  figure  of  the  pnest  Gir^  made  ol  Vaceoafc-^Q^  ^**^ 


574    Route  S4,  NARA  SecandJRoom. 

quered,  carved  by  his  own  hand  in  728^  and  occupying  a  seat  in 
a  wall-casQ,  is  an  excellent  example  of  Tempyd  work;  as  is  aJso 
the  seated  figure  (in  the  same  case)  of  Yuima,  which  came  from 
China  and  belongs  to  the  Kokke-ji,  There  are  many  other 
statues,  etc.,  in  this  room  but  they  are  surpassed  by  those  of 

The  Second  Room,  which  contains  some  of  the  great  priest 
Kdbo-Daishi^s  best  work  in  the  form  of  10  pierced  wood  slabs 
(the  remaining  2  of  the  set  are  in  the  Imperial  Museum  at 
Tokyo)  of  guardian  deities  in  low  relief  so  arranged  as  to  be 
adjusted  to  a  background;  they  are  demoniac  figures,  con- 
vulsed in  their  movement,  but  so  charged  with  virility  and 
emphasis  that  their  very  hideousness  attracts.  Chief  among 
the  other  statues  here  is  a  terrifying  one  of  Jikokwtenno  (by 
Kobo-Daishi)  in  armor,  brandishing  a  sword  and  with  threat- 
ening eyes  that  seem  to  eject  malignity  like  forked  lightning. 
Noteworthy  also  are  the  two  Deva  Kings  in  gilded  and  lac- 
quered wood,  trampling  on  demons  that  squirm  mightily  be- 
neath their  huge  feet.  One  can  scarcely  imagine  how  a  sculp- 
tor could  make  wood  images  expressive  of  more  irresistible 
strength  and  latent  force  than  these  short,  massive,  and  amaz- 
ingly muscular  giants  seem  to  possess.  Their  powerful  out- 
stretched arms,  swelling  muscles,  and  clenched,  sledge-ham- 
mer fists  make  the  timid  recoil  involuntarily  at  sight  of  them. 
They  date  from  the  Jogwan  period  (794-887)  and  are  perhaps 
by  Kohd-Daishi.  The  always  benevolent  Buddha,  in  a  glass 
case  here,  is  ascribed  (perhaps  too  hastily)  to  the  master 
Jochd  (son  of  Kdshd)^  whose  genius  made  the  beginning  of  the 
11th  cent,  one  of  the  most  notable  epochs  of  Japanese  sculp- 
ture. The  greatest  of  his  works  (the  efforts  of  a  life-time)  per- 
ishoi  with  the  destruction  of  the  Hojo-ji  built  by  the  Fujiwara 
Regent  Michinaga.  The  figure  is  shown  with  the  right  hand 
upraised  in  benediction,  the  breast  bare  under  a  robe  that  falls 
in  harmonious  curves,  and  with  that  admirable  expression  of 
abstraction  and  neutrality  which  every  sculptor  of  Buddha's 
images  has  always  striven  to  produce.  In  the  same  case  is  a 
strikingly  archaic  Monju-bosatsu  seated  on  a  lion;  an  old  image 
dating  from  the  Jogwan  period.  A  Fugen-hosatsUf  seated  on 
an  elephant,  in  another  case,  is  very  old  and  dates  from  the 
early  Fujiwara  times.  Of  considerable  historic  interest  (in  that 
they  show  the  costumes  of  their  era)  are  the  small  carved  wood 
images  of  the  Fujiwara  Empress  Jingo-  Kogd,  and  of  Nakatsu- 
Hime  (a  companion  figure),  belonging  to  the  Yakushi-ji.  The 
Negroid  figure  at  the  right,  of  Monjuy  once  belonged  to  the 
bonze  Rydben.  The  immense  seated  figure  of  Dainichi- Nyorai 
(Jogtoan  period)  has  been  unskillfuUy  repaired,  and  it  shows 
the  method  of  making  Buch  Vma^eatil  do\Xi  ?>.M  lacquer.  The 
Aandaome  Eleven-faced  Ktoannon  ol  ^caA^\.\«^^  wA,  ^t^  ^ 
gilded  base,  belongs  to  the  YakusHi-ii,  ^^^^Vt^^J^^^^*-!^^ 
epoch,  and  ia  unx^uaUy  gracdu\  and  ^^W  ^^^^^^^'^^ 


Third  Room,  NARA  S4.  Route.    675 

The  Third  Room  contains  some  of  the  finest  carved  statu- 
ary that  the  immortal  Unkei  has  left  to  a  wondering  posterity. 
Nowhere  can  the  extraordinary  work  of  this  master  be  studied 
to  better  advantage,  for  the  pieces  here  are  unrivaled  in  their 
impressiveness  and  seductive  charm.  The  student  who  has 
laboriously  traced  the  handiwork  of  this  12th-cent.  master  in 
the  maze  of  temples  and  mausolea  throughout  the  length  and 
breadth  of  Japan,  and  has  more  than  once  with  difficulty  re- 
pressed his  indignation  at  the  tawdry  carpenter-work  fatu- 
ously ascribed  to  him  by  ignorant  priests  and  bonzes,  realizes 
with  a  quiet,  vindicated  joy  that  nere,  at  last,  he  stands  in 
the  presence  of  indisputable  masterpieces  —  grandiose  works 
fashioned  with  infinite  patience  and  loving  care  by  one  whose 
soul  belonged  to  Buddha,  his  master,  and  whose  whole  life  was 
spent  in  giving  tangible  expression  to  his  images  or  to  those 
of  his  guardians  and  teachers.  Some  of  the  figures  are  marvels 
of  animated  expression,  marred  neither  by  carelessness,  insi- 
pidity, nor  exaggeration  in  form;  there  are  no  defects,  no  con- 
ventional stiffness,  no  cunningly  contrived  subterfuges.  Had 
time  dealt  as  gently  with  tnem  as  did  Unkei^s  marvelous 
chisel,  they  would  be  to  the  Nara  Musevm  what  the  Venu9 
de  Mile  is  to  the  Louvrey  or  the  Apollo  Belvedere  to  the  Vatican 
—  imperishable  records  of  an  art  that  faded  with  the  master 
whose  shadow  only  has  since  been  thrown  across  the  Land  of 
Yamato. 

Of  the  several  figiires  from  Unkei'a  chisel,  extraordinarily 
expressive  ones  (attributed  by  some  authorities  to  Kdkei)f 
are  Antexra-tai'Sho,  of  colored  wood,  with  a  tiny  horse's  head 
peering  out  of  the  backward-flowing  masses  of  his  red  hair; 
and  the  companion  image,  Santevra-tai-shdi  in  the  act  of  sight- 
ing an  arrow,  with  a  tiny  monkey  peering  from  amid  his 
equally  fiery  hair.  The  remaining  eight  of  the  original  ten 
figures  are  now-  scattered.  Two  of  Unkei's  most  admirable 
pieces  are  unmarked  because  no  records  exist  to  prove  they 
were  his.  One,  Muchaku-bosaisu,  is  distinctively  Unkeiesque 
and  shows  the  marks  of  genius  in  every  line  of  his  magnificent 
head  and  wise  old  face;  the  thick  but  fine  features,  the  prom- 
inent forehead  lined  with  profound  thought,  and  the  toga- 
draped  robe  with  the  ancient  colors  showing  dimly,  might  well 
allow  him  to  pass  for  a  Roman  centurion  in  priestly  garb.  Ti^ 
other,  one  of  the  most  splendidly  realistic  bits  in  the  museum, 
shows  VimalarKirH  (sometimes  called  Yuimaj  a  Chinese  doc- 
tor, and  ascribed  by  some  to  Tokeiy  Unkei* s  son)  seated  tailor- 
fashion  on  a  fine  old  temple  chair,  in  an  attitude  oi  amiable 
argument,  the  right  hand  outstretched  with  two  fin^<&T^  csil- 
tended,  as  if  emphasizing  something  tViat.  \i<e  >&»&  «asA\  Vhaif^ 
left  holding  up  a  comer  of  his  flowing  robe.  Tte  ^^og^ft  isgy^>y^% 
genial  Sgure  radiates  intense  vitality  and  to\€CftXL\>  ooxmR^aisa, 
tlie  one  marring  feature  being  the  giaas  eyea,  N?\n!t\i  «c»  f*^«^ 


576    Route  34.  NARA  UnkeL 

dosely  together  that  they  give  rise  to  the  suspicion  that  the 
original  was  cross-eyed.  The  polychrome  statues  in  the  same 
case,  the  embodiment  of  imrestrained  anger  and  power,  are  of 
Karigd'rikiahif&ad  are  perhaps  authentic  specimens  of  Tokei's 
best  work.    The  near-by  life-size  image  of  GigeP4en,  with  a 

Saceful  body  (Tempyo  period  work  of  lacquer  and  incense) 
aped  in  clinging  polychrome  stuff,  marked  by  an  amused, 
incredulous  expression,  is  curious  in  that  the  torso  was  carved 
by  linkei  to  fit  the  head.  The  companion  statue  of  Bonten 
(carved  by  ArtrNami  during  the  Xama^tfra  epoch)  is  decidedly 
feminine  m  suggestiveness.  The  wine-red  face  with  which  this 
Hindu  divinity  (with  Vishnu  and  Swa  comprising  the  Hindu 
Trimurti)-is  customarily  shown,  surmounts  a  graceful  body 
adorned  with  anklets  and  enveloped  in  rich  polychromatic 
drapery  held  in  place  by  a  knotted  scarf  and  girdle.  like  its 
companion  it  stands  on  an  upturned  lotus,  and  it  looks  more 
like  a  well-fed,  finery-loving  princess  than  the  personified 
Brahma,  —  Other  admirable  specimens  of  Unkei^a  work  in  this 
room  are  the  warlike  figures  of  Ktoomokurteu'df  Ta7non4eiv^, 
Zoochd-ten-dy  and  Jiko1ni-ten-d,  Very  early  Yamato  work  (8th 
cent.)  are  the  sculptured,  weather-beaten  images  (by  Qydgi)  of 
Haira-TaishOf  axiaMeishira^Taiahd  (of  the  12  warrior  deities). 
The  wonderful  old  carved  head  with  glass  eyes  in  this  case 
is  by  Tokei.  The  bizarre,  life-size  wood  figure  of  Shvbodai  is 
attributed  to  An- N ami  (who  died  in  1253).  Note  the  fleeing 
figure  of  Zenzai  Dqji,  also  by  him.  The  celebrated  demon 
lantern-bearers  (by  Koheny  Kamakura  period)  upholding 
lamps  in  the  central  glass  case,  are  Tento-hi  and  Hyuto-ki; 
both  are  owned  by  the  Kofuku-jif  and  in  the  throat  of  each 
(detachable  heads)  are  rolls  of  paper  giving  their  history. 
Note  the  savage  perplexity  of  one  of  the  imps,  and  the  vacuous 
stolidity  of  the  other.  The  dumpy  image  of  the  immortal 
Gyogi'hosatsu  was  perhaps  carved  by  his  own  hand  and  is  one 
of  the  few  of  this  really  great  man  that  the  traveler  will  see  in 
Japan;  it  is  owned  by  the  Tosho-dai-ji,  The  awe-inspiring 
seated  figure  of  Emma-dy  the  King  of  Hell,  with  an  enormous 
body,  vociferating  terrible  words  from  a  mouth  twitching  with 
vindictiveness  and  emphasized  by  terrifying  glass  eyes,  chills 
the  marrow  in  one's  bones  and  haunts  the  vision;  it  dates  from 
the  Kamakura  period  and  is  by  some  unknown  but  masterly 
hand  (perhaps  Kdun),  There  are  many  other  distorted  de- 
mons and  divinities  in  this  room,  some  of  them  badly  mauled 
by  the  hand  of  time,  but  all  representative  of  the  greatest 
artistic  epochs  in  Japan's  history.  One  can  scarcely  over- 
look  the  two  prodigious  Nid  (12th-cent.  work)  of  carved  and 
painted  wood  —  hwf-naked  ftigaieB  m\Xi  ^aXktvt  muscles  and 
breast-bones,  magnificent  exampX^  ol  V»r^  «a».\«ifiN^\3BA 
feces  and  hands  —  the  ioTmet  T«eeiii>o\\Tv^x^^  ^^  ^^^^^ 
—  marked  by  unu8ua\  vivwiitv  oi  ««ex^^^^«    ^^^^  ^ 


The  Workshop.  NARA  34.  Route.    577 

striking  are  the  chiseled  wood  images  (by  An'Nami,  whose 
name  is  carved  on  the  bottom  of  the  feet  <^  the  figures)  of 
ShinjorDaid^  Jizd-hoeatsu^  and  Shi- Kongd^in, 

The  Succeeding  Rooms  contain  collections  of  mdkemono 
and  kakemono  by  various  artists,  chiefly  of  the  Toea  school 
(Mitsunobuy  YoshimUeUf  Mutsuhige,  and  others) ;  some  are  note- 
worthy, but  they  are  always  liable  to  change  in  position  or  to 
be  withdrawn  and  sent  to  other  museums.  The  several  paint- 
ings of  the  Sixteen  Rakan  are  executed  in  rich,  low  tones  in 
pleasing  contrast  to  certain  others  here.  Conspicuous  among 
the  historical  obiects  (and  by  which  the  people  set  great  store) 
are  some  examples  of  the  chirography  of  famous  emperors  and 
bonzes,  and  some  excellent  pieces  of  llth-cent.  armor,  eques- 
trian trappings,  and  the  like.  Choice  bits  are  the  little  religious 
symbols,  veritable  gems  of  earlv  craftsmanship,  in  the  form  of 
pagoda-like  shrines  (of  the  style  called  Shart-4d)  dating  from 
the  13th  cent,  and  bedecked  with  jewels  and  gold  foil;  the  inner 
surface  of  the  tiny  doors  is  enriched  by  a  host  of  delicate  fig- 
urines like  the  painted  graces  on  an  ivorv  fan.  Some  are  of  wood, 
wonderfully  carved;  others  of  brass,  bronze,  or  lacquer.  The 
one  of  glass  with  the  tiny  pebbles  inside  has  some  legendarv  as- 
sociation with  Buddha's  early  life.  The  bronze  shutter  of  a  lamp 
which  anciently  adorned  the  Naneiv-dd  is  said  to  be  more  than  a 
thousand  yrs.  old.  The  diminutive  wood  towers  in  the  glass  case 
are  a  part  of  the  lot  preserved  in  the  reliquary  at  the  H dry H-ji. 

PoRCELAiNiSTS  wiU  be  interested  in  the  miscellaneous  col- 
lection of  pieces  exhumed  in  different  parts  of  Yamato  —  the 
cradle  of  the  Japanese  race.  Noteworthy  among  the  bronze 
pieces  is  a  much-copied  group  called  Kwagen-hsif  from  the 
Kofukurjif  formed  by  a  lion  supporting  a  stem  composed  of 
squirming  dragons  which  terminate  in  a  circle  that  girdles 
a  shapely  gong.  Critics  disagree  as  to  its  origin — some  pro- 
clainung  it  Chinese,  others  Japanese  work  of  the  Temvyd 
period.  Certain  curio-dealers  make  a  business  of  selling  what 
purports  to  be  the  ori^nal  (worth  15,000  yen)  to  credulous 
foreigners.  Among  the  Imperial  treasures  are  some  fragments 
of  stuff  worn  by  Prince  Shdtoku  (in  the  7th  cent.),  and  3 
handsome  black-lacquered  shutters  embellished  with  gold  and 
silver  characters,  and  gold  lotus  leaves  and  stems  —  a  gift 
to  one  of  the  temples  by  Minamoto  YoritomOf  In  1199.  Note- 
worthy among  the  other  bronze  objects  is  a  strange  piece  of 
13th-cent.  woric  (by  Kdben)  in  the  form  of  a  demon  with  a  lan- 
tern on  his  head,  and  about  whom  a  serpent  is  coiled. 

In  a  detached  building  not  far  from  the  museum  is  a  Woc%l> 
shop  (Sugimura'Tekkd)  where  expert  acu\p\;ot%  xaa.'^  \ifc  ^iwa. 
dujuicatin^  Bome  of  the  most  famous  wood  ttta\xie&  c^^c^^X^ 
in  the  muaeum.  Visiton,  particularly  cui\oAov«%,  ^o\!\^  *»^ 
the  diBplay  in  the  Bhownom  here  if  for  no  o\2b«t  -w^aoxv  ^^^^ 
to  eoBvmce  tbeamelves  of  the  astonlikmift  ^d^Wl  ^  ^Vsi^;^ 


578    RouU  34^  KARA  Eiccursiom. 

.  with  which  old  Japanese  statuary  can  be  duplicated  by  modem 
workmen.  Various  reasons  are  given  for  these  authoiiied 
reproductions;  one  being  that  they  diminish  the  number  of 
spurious  antiques  sold  by  Nara  dealers  as  originals  'removed 
from  such  and' such  a  temple.'  Another,  that  art-lovers  can 
thus  enjoy  by  purchase  duplicates  of  pieces  that  no  money 
could  buy.  Certain  figures  are  carved  out  of  well-seasoned  san- 
dalwood (fyyakvdan)y  or  camphor-wood  {kusu^no-ki)\  or  made 
lightly,  strongly,  and  in  an  almost  imperishable  manner  of  a 
compound  of  cloth  and  lacquer.  Great  skill  and^considerable 
time  are  required  for  sculptured  wood  figiures.  Prices  range 
from  25  to  1000  yen.  according  to  size,  etc.  A  complete  pair  of 
Shi-tenndf  made  with  such  embarrassing  fidelity  to  the  originals 
that  experts  only  could  detect  the  fraud,  require  the  attention 
of  10  or  15  workmen  for  6  months  or  more,  and  sell  for  about 
¥1000.  Reproductions  in  cement  of  the  clay  figures  in  the 
Horyu-ji  pagoda  are  also  made. 

Excursions.  The  admirer  of  ancient  Buddhist  temples,  or 
the  treasures  which  they  often  enshrine,  will  feel  amply  repaid 
by  a  visit  to  the  Hokkev-jiy  the  *T6shddai'jif  Saidai-ji^  and 
*  Yakttshi'jif  a-  chain  of  tottering  old  relics  scattered  over  the 
Nara  Plain f  and  celebrated  for  their  fine  statuary.  (CJomp. 
the  plan  of  the  Environs  of  Nara.)  By  making  an  all-day  ex- 
cursion of  it  one  may  continue  past  the  Yakushi-ji  to  iCOri^ 
yama,  inspect  the  goldfish  hatchery  (about  noon)  and  the  ruins 
of  a  sometime  famous  castle  there;  proceed  thence  (by  rly.) 
to  *HdryU'ji  smd  return  to  the  hotel  late  in  the  aftOTioon. 
Jinrikis  are  available  (at  about  ¥1.25)  as  far  as  K&riyama 
Station,  but  on  a  bright  day  the  walk  is  so  delightful  that  few 
will  wish  to  resort  to  this  infantile  mode  of  locomotion.  If  one 
does  the  first  part  of  the  journey  on  foot  it  will  be  a  good  plan 
to  take  one  of  the  hotel-boys  along  to  act  as  guide  (as  the  foot- 
path across  the  rice-fields  between  Hokkei-ji  and  Tdshddai-ji 
is  a  bit  twisty).  He  will  be  useful  to  carry  the  lunch-basket, 
and  to  act  as  interpreter  at  the  temples.  This  is  almost  a  neces- 
sity at  the  Hokkei-ji,  which  is  a  nimnery  where  men  are  sup- 
posed to  be  conspicuous  by  their  absence.  Grandiose  is  the 
fitting  word  in  the  description  of  the  colossal  statues  of  bronze, 
gilded  wood  and  lacquer  that  one  finds  in  these  sometime  rich 
and  powerful  old  fanes,  and  they  are  strongly  suggestive  of  a 
period  when  Buddhism  had  a  hard-and-fast  grip  on  the  native 
imagination  and  great  wealth  was  lavished  on  the  graven  im- 
ages of  the  ^Enlightened  One'  and  his  saintly  retinue. 

The  road  to  the  Hokkei-ji  (E,  PI.  B,  2)  leads  past  the  red 
torii  at  the  entrance  to  tlie  Nara  Parfc,  thence  on  to  the  Kage* 
kiyo-mmy  or  gate  to  tixe  Daibutau  Compcm-nA  ^,^\.C  ^  ^  wheite 
it  iuxm  abruptly  to  tJae  leit  aad  lo\io^^  ^^  ^\iVW.o ,  ^^  ^^ 
Imperial  hi^way  to  Kyo\x>.  Kh  ^^^^^^^^^'^SS 


The  Hokkeirji.  NARA  34-  Rmde.    579 

fully  kept  gravelled  walk  leading  up  to  the  (right)  inclosed 
tomb  of  the  Emperor  ShSfnu.  Beyond  this  (35  min.  from  the 
hotel)  one  passes  (right)  the  Gov't  Agricultiu*al  Experiment 
Station,  and  after  crossing  (10  min.)  the  rly.,  soon  reaches  the 
temple.  According  to  tradition  it  was  constructed  (about 
A.D.  735)  by  the  order  of  Shdmu^s  consort,  as  a  retreat  for 
women,  inasmuch  as  when  this  emperor  caused  the  Tddai-ji 
to  be  erected  no  women  were  allowed  in  it.  Having  thus  been 
constructed  by  an  Imperial  edict,  the  dynasty  of  abbesses  has 
been  of  the  royal  blood.  The  Imperial  crest  is  in  evidence  on 
the  tiles  of  the  surrounding  wall  and  the  buildings,  but  every- 
thing about  the  place  excepting  the  rosy-cheeked  nuns  is  fast 
falling  to  decay.  A  buxom  lass  radiating  good  health  and  shy- 
ness opens  the  creaking  doors  of  the  old  honden  and  points  out 
the  modest  treasures.  Inside  the  queer  old  black-lacquered 
shrine  on  the  main  altar  is  an  unusually  graceful  Eleven-faced 
Kwannon  of  carved  wood  —  a  voluptuous  figure,  somewhat 
Hindu  in  type,  with  attractive  flesh  folds  that  seem  to  rebel 
against  the  restraint  of  the  draperies  and  the  airy  banderolas 
that  scarcely  hide  them.  The  slender  right  hand  holds  up  the 
salient  curves  of  this  daintily  sculptured  drapery,  while  the 
left  holds  a  vase  from  which  springs  a  lotus  in  bloom.  The  biz- 
arre mandorla  is  composed  of  chiseled  lotus  leaves  suspended 
from  the  ends  of  graduated  wires.  According  to  the  tradi- 
tion referring  to  this  figure,  Komyo^kdgdj  wife  of  the  Emperor 
Shomuy  was  such  a  beautiful  and  saintly  character  that  she 
was  regarded  by  some  aS  a  material  incarnation  of  the  Goddess 
Kwannon.  A  celebrated  Hindu  sculptor  sojourning  in  Japan 
■  fell  madly  in  love  with  her  and  wanted  to  carve  her  image,  out 
as  her  Imperial  person  was  too  sacred  to  be  touched  he  was 
obliged  to  content  himself,  for  his  model,  with  her  image  as 
reflected  from  the  surface  of  the  adjacent  lotus-pool  —  whence 
the  background  of  lotus  leaves.  More  than  one  of  the  temple 
relics  hint  at  the  forbidden  subject  of  love.  The  next  most 
precious  possession  belongs  to  this  class  and  is  represented  by 
a  pathetic  kneeling  figure  of  a  shaven-headed  nun  with  delicate 
hands  emerging  from  ample  sleeves.  The  body  is  of  pounded 
and  amalgamated  paper  riddled  witli  tiny  insect  holes  —  true 
vermiculated  work.  According  to  the  story  it  is  the  image  of 
the  unfortunate  Yokkobvyej  a  dashing  Court  beauty  of  the 
12th  cent.,  who  was  loved  by  a  gallant  «omwroi  whom  she  loved 
madly  in  return.  As  his  parents  refused  to  permit  him  to 
marry  her,  he  retired  to  a  monastery  at  Saga  and  became  a 
bonze.  Hearing  of  this  the  distracted  maiden  followed  him  and 
sought  to  have  him  withdraw,  but  the  disappointed  lowest  V^a^ 
already  taken  the  oath  and  in  obedience  thereV^^^ac^^^^^^^ 
disavow  ber.  Broken-beaxted,  she  retuiiied  \o  NaTa,«Q»J^^^ 
her  head,  and  entered  the  Hokkeirji  nuxmery-  Mkcl-^  ^^?f*^?S 
ste.  letters  were  exckanged  during  the  yewi^  ^3m»^  lo^to««»^» 


580    Reniie  34.  NARA  Tds/MUd-ji. 

and  before  she  died  she  took  these,  pounded  them  to  a  pulp, 
moulded  them  mto  a  statue  of  herself,  and  sent  it  to  her  lover 
as  a  proof  of  imdying  fidelity  I 

Hard  by  this  image,  which  is  tenderly  enshrined  in  a  glass 
case,  is  a  seated  and  very  lifeUke  figure  of  Kobo-Daishi,  said 
to  have  been  carved  by  the  hand  of  the  great  master  himself. 
At  the  right  of  the  room,  in  a  recess,  is  a  strildng  statue  of 
Monju  seated  on  a  big  Hon.  In  the  same  reliquary  is  a  cu- 
rious Eleven-fiiced  Kwannon  (of  Indian  origin)  noteworthy  for 
technic,  truth,  and  vigor;  surrounding  the  figure  are  11  white 
disks  on  each  of  which  is  a  gold  letter  in  Sanscrit.  In  an  ad- 
joining room  is  a  Fvdo  with  both  legs  doubled  imder  him, 
and  with  imitation  jewels  on  his  breast.  —  As  one  leaves  the 
compound  with  its  group  of  low  buildings  behind  its  defensive 
wall,  one  is  impressed  by  the  oalnmess  and  serenity  of  the 
place;  some  fine  old  cherry  trees  and  a  few  languid  bananas 
show  their  heads  above  the  garden  wall  as  if  startled  at  the 
temeritv  of  the  visitor.  Far  across  the  plain  the  spires  of  Nara 
glisten  brightly  at  the  foot  of  the  mts. 

The  road  to  the  Saidai-ji  (E,  PI.  B,  2)  follows  a  devious 
course  across  the  paddy-fields,  with  a  S.E.  trend;  the  main 
road  to  the  Toshddai-ji  is  reached  in  about  i  hr.,  where  the 
Yakuahirji  pagoda  is  seen  at  the  far  left,  and  the  Saidairji 
among  the  trees  about  1  M.  to  the  right.  As  the  images  in  this 
temple  difiFer  but  little  from  those  to  be  seen  in  the  temples  yet 
to  be  visited,  the  traveler  will  not  lose  much  by  omitting  it. 
Conspicuous  among  the  treasures  is  a  huge  gilt  Kwannon  of  a 
plump  Hindu  woman  type,  with  the  slight  curling  mustachio 
one  often  notes  on  similar  images;  a  Monju  mounted  on  the 
customary  lion  led  by  an  arm^  guard;  a  big  SkaJca  carved 
in  the  natural  wood  and  backed  by  a  huge  pierced  mandorla 
covered  with  figurines;  and  a  number  of  minor  idols.  The 
bronze  images  of  the  Shi-tenno  are  celebrated,  but  not  so  much 
so  as  those  in  the  Yakuahi-ji.  Returning  to  the  main  road 
(the  one-time  populous  highway  from  Koriyama  to  Kyoto,  and 
along  which  the  powerful  daimyos  went  on  their  annual  pil- 
grimage to  the  Yedo  Court)  we  follow  it  for  15  min.,  then  turn 
up  at  the  right  to  a  neglected  park  crowded  with  old  temples, 
said  to  date  from  the  Tempyo  era. 

The  *T(5sh(5dai-ji  (E,  PI.  B,  2)  was  established  by  Ganjin, 
a  Chinese  bonze  who  on  his  voyage  from  China  was  ship- 
wrecked and  blinded  by  the  salt  water.  The  admirably  carved 
wood  image  of  him  is  considered  so  valuable  that  it  is  kept  in 
a  sealed  godown  forbidden  even  to  the  head  priest,  who  can- 
not show  it  without  written  instructions  from  the  chief  of  the 
Nara  Prefecture.    One  weW-knovm  cn\Kc  ^^mV^  t«.pturou8lv 
of  the  image,  which  thougli  ftne  Vb  ^eMc.d^  ^^j^m^  \ft  \iiOR«e^ 
beat  work.    '  This  supreme  maB^iei^Jift^^  *^\?^^^^^JS^^i^^ 


The  K(mdd.  NARA  34.  BmOe.    581 

the  spectator  is  face  to  face  with  a  startling  apparition.  He  is 
seat^  with  clasped  hands,  his  thumbs  pressed  together;  his 
robe  is  crossed  m  two  large  black  ana  red  folds  upon  his 
breast;  his  shaven  forehead  is  deeply  wrinkled,  and  under  the 
closed  eyelids  the  pupils  are  suggested  with  extraordinary 
vivacity  and  sensibility.  He  was  blind,  and  the  veiled  eyes  are 
evidently  those  of  a  being  whose  whole  life  was  internal,  and 
who,  in  the  obscurity  of  this  mysterious  retreat,  placidly  pro- 
longed the  unfathomable  dream,  the  intoxications  of  which 
he  had  been'spared.  There  is  a  strange  calm  on  the  face,  which 
no  earthly  emotion  seems  ever  to  have  ruffled.  One  has  a 
sense  of  uneasy  shame  at  having  laid  a  profane  hand  upon 
the  curtains  of  the  shrine,  disturbing  by  an  indiscreet  curiosity 
the  touching  and  eternal  dream  of  the  sage.'  —  The  old  go- 
downs  (8th-cent.  work)  in  log-cabin  style,  with  overlapping 
beam-ends  and  resting  above  the  ground  on  sturdy  posts,  look 
as  primitive  as  the  ark,  —  recalling  in  fact  the  lacustral  abode 
of  some  prehistoric  patriarch.  The  fine  lotus-bloom  bronze 
fountain,  over  whose  dimpled  edges  tiny  streams  of  crystal 
water  well  and  fall  with  a  musical  tinkle,  is  the  only  animate 

.  thing  in  the  great,  solenm,  deserted  court.  When  the  old  bonze 
ambles  into  view  carrying  his  bunch  of  dangling,  rusted,  prison- 
like keys,  he  seems  Ime  some  queer,  wrinkled  old  sprite  from 
the  dim  past,  returning  to  a  home  deserted  by  him  a  thousand 
yrs.  agone.  The  robust  wood  columns  which  support  the  mas- 
sive buildings  are  bound  with  rusted  iron  bands,  and  the  beams 
and  joists  are  embedded  in  the  plaster,  in  the  old  Yamato 
style.  The  great  draughty  Kodo  with  its  frigid  cement  floor 
and  the  musty  odor  which  time  gives  would  resemble  a  prison 
were  it  not  for  the  huge  and  splendid  old  gilded  image  of 
Miroku-bosatsuy  backed  by  a  superb  mandorla  covered  with 
carved  and  gilded  figures  that  recall  the  florid  exuberance  and 
the  wanton  capriciousness  of  Borromenisco  work.  At  the  top- 
most point  is  a  small  gold  Buddha  carved  in  low  relief,  and 
trailing  down  the  sides  in  beautiful,  sinuous  curves  are  lines 
of  flying  tennin  that  express  in  every  attitude  the  rich  flower- 
ing of  an  unrestrained  art.  So  much  is  the  work  like  the  best 
efforts  of  Churriguera  that,  were  it  not  for  the  Japanese  en- 
vironment, one  could  readily  imagine  one's  self  in  some  vast, 
forgotten  cathedral  of  Southern  Spain:  nothing  of  the  kind  in 
Nara  is  finer  in  composition  and  execution.  Two  guardian  fig- 
ures with  martial  air  stand  at  the  right  and  left,  but  they  pale 
into  insignificance  before  the  striking  and  unusually  tall  hon  at 
the  end  of  the  room,  polychrome  in  color,  and  datmg  from  the 
Kamakura  period.  It  is  decidedly  Persi^i  in  charactAT^  mA 
when  surmounted  by  the  Monju  which  was  8UAieiiltOTXi\\»\w*2it 
some  300 yrs.  ago  it  must  have  been  a  resplendeiit  "wotV  cH  m^»- 
Tbe  KoNDo,  ^across  the  court  froin  the   K5d5,  cooXaana  ^ 

large  and  curious  Hoahana,  or  BiruBhaTWrhyOx^u  tfiod  ol\aW»i» 


582    B(nde  S4.  NARA  Yakuakv-ji. 

as  typified  by  the  Nara  Daibvisu),  referred  to  locally  as  the 
16-foot  Budaha.  It  is  made  of  bamboo  lacquered  and  gilded 
over  and  is  backed  bv  an  immense  mandorla  embellished  by 
3000  tiny  Buddhas.  At  the  right  is  a  huge  standing  Yakushi- 
Nyorai,  and  at  the  left  a  Thovsandrhxinded  Kwannon  of  over- 
whelming proportions;  scores  of  the  larger  hands  hold  scepters, 
lotus  flowers,  and  various  Buddhist  symbols,  while  others 
maJke  the  gesture  of  benediction  with  golden  fingers.  On  and 
about  the  platform  are  various  masterly  figures:  four  Shi- 
tenno  in  armor  and  helmets,  watching  with  menacing  gestures 
and  contracted  faces;  statues  of  Indra  and  of  Brahnuiy  both 
with  heavy,  voluptuous  features  that  betray  their  Hindu 
origin,  and  both  enveloped  in  revealing  robes  that  fall  in 
straignt  folds  from  the  waist,  festoon  over  the  feet  in  front,  and 
curve  out  in  trains  behind.  The  old  cofiFered  ceiling  with  its 
polychrome  decorations  shows  traces  of  former  beauty,  and 
the  great  bronze  bell  in  the  outer  yard  has  a  voice  strangely 
sweet  to  be  so  old  —  more  than  1200  yrs.  I  The  graceful  Drum- 
Tower  near  by,  which  is  opened  only  on  special  occasions, 
enshrines  a  delicate  Monju  on  a  lion  —  a  national  treasure, 
with  a  gilded  crown  and  sword  dating  from  the  Tempyo  period. 
—  Leaving  the  extraordinarily,  attractive  old  court  with  its 
masterpieces  and  its  saddening  memories,  and  passing  through 
the  E.  gate,  first  to  the  right,  then  to  the  left,  we  come,  in 
about  10  min.  to 

The  *Yakushi-ji,  (E,  PI.  B-C,  2)  founded  by  the  (40th) 
Emperor  Temmu  sometime  between  673  and  686,  removed 
hither  between  708  and  715,  and  at  present  one  of  the  oldest 
temple  structures  in  the  Nara  region.  Formerly  one  of  the 
richest  and  most  brilliant  of  the  Yamato  fanes,  it  long  since 
fell  from  its  high  estate,  and  is  now  a  crumbling  and  melan- 
choly reminder  of  a  golden  past.  It  stands  in  what  was  once 
a  magnificent  park  where  the  remaining  trees  are  centuries  old, 
and  though  sadly  neglected  it  is  celebrated  far  and  wide  for 
its  unique  art-treasures  in  the  form  of  gigantic  bronze  images 
that  date  from  the  early  years  of  the  7th  cent.  The  custodian 
dwells  at  the  left  of  the  entrance  to  the  unkempt  yard.  We 
enter  first  the  KodOj  where,  sitting  on  a  wide  quartzite  plat- 
form (called  white  agate  and  said  to  be  from  China)  is  one  of 
the  most  extraordinary  examples  of  early  bronze  statuary  in 
Japan  —  a  superb  green  bronze  Yakushi^Nyoraij  of  majestic 
and  noble  proportions,  9  ft.  high,  fashioned  with  original  vigor 
and  grace,  and  shown  in  the  attitude  of  making  the  gesture 
of  benediction.  The  flight  of  steps  which  leads  up  to  the  pedes- 
tal is  adorned  with  delicate  bas-reliefs,  while  behind  is  a  (new) 
richly  gilded  mandorla  embellished  with  Sanscrit  chfu'acters 
in  gold.  Flanking  this  central  figure  are  colossal  bronze  up- 
right Statues  13  ft.  hig)i  oi  (,n^\.^  Qwakko-bosatsui  and  Nikkd- 
bosatau  —  all  reputed  to  \iave  \>efexi  c^\.  ^v.  0\wwwA»  Ms^wanl 


The  Pagoda.  KARA  S4,  BtfiOet    S8Z 

of  1300  yrs.  ago!  Theheado{theGt0afcfcdwasmdted<^l^the 
fire  which  scarred  his  skirts  200  yiB.  ago,  and  was  ri^laoed. 
According  to  one  art  critic  'there  is  an  elef^oe  in  their  grand- 
eur and  a  character  in  their  beauty  wMch  have  he&k  attained 
onlv  in  the  great  epochs  of  bronse  statuary  in  ancient  Graece 
and  in  the  Italy  of  the  Renaissance.  Around  these  majestic 
divinities  of  somber  bronse,  the  rich  patina  of  which  en^^ops 
them  in  soft  reflections,  the  four  Shi4ennd  of  peen-lacquered 
and  gilded  wood,  in  their  rich  armor,  add  a  picturesoue  note 
of  the  happiest  harmony.'  The  sculptured  wood  ngure  of 
Yaktishi  at  the  left  of  the  bronze  figure  dates  from  the  Fvju 
wara  period  and  is  noteworthy  for  fine  carving.  A  jarring  note 
is  imparted  by  a  stack  of  disabled  wood  demons  near  by  and 
which  remind  one  strongly  of  modem  cigar-store  Indians.  — 
Crossing  the  yard  between  the  twin  lotu&-ponds  we  come  to 

The  KondG,  mifioiamed  the  Golden  Hall,  where  there  are 
reproductions  in  a  highly  polished  black  copper  alloy  of  tibe 
images  in  the  Kddd;  here  the  benevolent  zakuMy  God  of 
Medicine,  and  mitigator  of  man's  sufferings,  is  seated  on  a 
great  square  bronze  base  of  unique  design  and  Indian  work- 
manship —  one  of  the  most  striking  examples  of  its  kind  in 
Japan.  Traces  of  gold  foil  shme  out  in  certain  spots,  and  the 
intricate  bas-reliefs  and  tracery  are  relics  of  a  skillnil  hand. 
Beneath  a  shallow  arcade  divided  by  a  caryatid  crouch  two 
naked  figures  with  loin-cloths,  in  the  midst  <rf  serpents;  their 
strangely  dressed  hair  and  their  gnome4ike  udmess  suggest 
alien  origin.  They  are  unlike  anyOiing  else  in  Japan  andare 
representative  of  an  art  (perhaps  Draoid^n)  which  hapiHly 
has  not  been  extensively  copied.  The  ShUUnn6  in  tibeir  grem 
robes  and  gilded  armor  are  handsome  examples  of  the  best 
work  of  Jodid. 

The  Pagoda  (p.  dxxxiii)  is  extraordinariljy  well  presonred 
for  its  age  -^  about  1200  yn.  The  3  stories  nse  one  above  the 
other  in  pairs,  the  6th  bemg  surmounted  by  a  bronze  demon- 
arrester  115  ft.  above  the  ground.  Tl»  stj^le  of  architecture 
is  distinctively  that  of  the  ¥«note  Nam  period  —  emphasized 
in  the  curious  manner  m  Which  the  compound  brackets  are 
supported  by  the  beam-ez^dgl' and  in  the  host  of  intercommuni- 
cating beams  themselves.  Tbe  demon  aptefixes  are  the  proto- 
types of  those  which  one  seee  in  many  parts  of  Old  Yamato. 

The  To-iN-i>d,  hard  by,  contains  a  curiously  decorated 
shrine  with  a  veiy  graceful  and  womanly  bronze  Kwannon,  7 
ft.  tall;  the  carefully  modeled  dttpefy,  and  the  barbaric  girdle 
with  pendants  that  falls  over  ana  dings  round  her  thighs,  the 
high  chignon  with  tendrils,  th^^  wide  scarves  wtAch  undulate 
from  her  arms  to  her  shapely  tegiy  and  h^  ggcml  foreign  at- 
tributes place  the  image  in  a  claal  i^iart.  Tmdition  avers  tQifcf& 
came  from  Korea  over  a  millensfiaa  a^o.  *  nfVsft  ufa^TL^SfiA^VsK^ 
head  is  B^d  to  be  A  diamonjI^Jj^e^dMisMiw 


684    Route  34.     NARA  TO  HORYU-JI  Excursions, 

stifangely  out  of  keeping  with  the  excellence  of  the  figure.  The 
odd  rudo  near  by,  with  the  heads  of  birds  showing  in  his  flam- 
ing aureola,  is  ascribed  to  Kohd-Daishi,  —  Crossing  an  arched 
stone  bridge  spanning  a  neglected  lotus-pool  one  enters 

The  Bu8oku-ddf  a  small  building  (usually  locked)  enshrin- 
ing a  much  venerated  and  oddly  chiseled  stone  on  whose  upper 
surface,  elaborately  incised  in  geometrical  fashion,  are  the 
outlines  of  two  human  feet  19  in.  long  and  9  in.  wide  —  said  to 
be  the  impress  of  the  feet  of  Buddha!  According  to  the  unc- 
tuous old  bonze  who  unlocks  the  sacred  inclosure,  this  stone 
came  from  India,  and  is  the  original  one  on  which  Buddha 
stood  —  the  spurious  copy  having  been  retained  at  the  point 
of  origin!  The  inscription  on  the  upright  stone  behind  it  was 
made  by  the  Emperor  Shdmu. 

Leaving  the  temple  grounds  through  the  near-by  gatewav, 
one  turns  first  to  the  right,  then  to  the  left;  a  30  min.  leisurely 
walk  brings  one  to  the  entrance  to  Courd  Yanagisawa^a  Gold- 
fish Garden,  where  the  custodian  (fees  unnecessary)  conducts 
the  visitor  to  a  pretty  summer-house  in  the  midst  of  a  dozen 
or  more  small  intercommunicating  ponds.  These  form  a  thriv- 
ing hatchery  where  thousands  of  goldfish  (p.  civ)  from  very  tiny 
ones  to  big  fellows  6  or  more  yrs.  old  are  reared  and  sold. 
While  one  eats  one's  luncheon  in  the  rest-house  (table  and 
chairs  provided)  bowlsful  of  wriggling  little  golden  sprites  are 
captured  and  placed  near  for  one's  enjoyment;  the  fish  with 
broad,  bulbous  heads  are  called  shishi^a-ahiraf  or  lion-heads. 
—  On  the  way  to  (20  min.)  the  Koriyama  rly.  station,  one 
traverses  the  old  castle  grounds  and  sees  the  vast  moat  and 
massive,  crumbling  walls  of  the  fortress  erected  by  Odagiri 
Harutauga  in  1565.  Hideyoahi  wrested  it  from  him  in  1585 
and  ^ave  it  to  his  brother  Hidenaga  along  with  the  provinces 
of  Kii,  Yamato,  and  Izumi.  At  the  time  of  the  Restoration  (in 
1868)  it  belonged  to  the  Yanagisawa  family.  The  upper  ter- 
race is  now  crowned  by  the  Middle  School,  where  excellent 
English  is  taught  by  native  professors.  Many  boys  from  Nara 
come  hither  daily  to  attend  the  school.  A  short  walk  through 
the  town  of  Koriyama  (pop.  15,000)  brings  one  to  the  station, 
linked  by  rly.  to  (4  M.  distant)  Horyu-ji  (E,  PI.  B,  2),  at  the  S. 
Consult  the  rly.  time-table.  A  good  walker  can  easily  com- 
pass the  distance  (follow  the  track)  in  an  hour.  Jinrikis  are 
available. 

The  *H6ryfl-ji  Temple  (called  also  Ikaruga-dera),  a  Budd- 
hist fane  (oldest  extant  in  Japan)  founded  in  a.d.  607  by 
Prince  Shotoku  (or  Shotoku-taiahi),  the  2d  son  of  the  (31st) 
Emperor  Yomei  (586-87),  now  hoary  with  age  and  tottering 
beneath  the  weight  of  centuries,  is  a  celebrated  Mecca  for 
those  interested  in  the  dawn  of  Buddhism  in  the  Japanese  Em- 
pirCf  as  well  as  the  higbiy  m\Ai^\>m%  architecture  which  came 
with  it.  Nowhere  in  3 apau  caa  ou^  ^\m^'^  \ft\i^\XKt  advantage 


The  Pagoda.  HORYO-JI  34.  Route.    585 

the  masterful  influences  —  artistic,  ecclesiastical,  and  archi- 
tectural— which,  imported  along  with  this  pleasing  cult,  were 
destined  to  run  like  a  red  thread  through  the  course  of  Japan- 
ese history;  and  nowhere  can  be  seen  a  Buddhist  temple  con- 
structed in  a  purer  Buddhist  style  imenriched  by  later  ideas, 
expedients,  or  decorations,  and  unaffected  by  Shintdiam  and 
its  attributes.  The  student  concerned  in  the  virtual  starting- 
point  of  Japanese  art  while  still  intimately  associated  with  the 
inspirational  Hindu  and  Korean  sources,  will  find  the  HdryU-' 
ji  a  mine  of  revelation.  So  close  to  the  veritable  fountain  head 
is  this  bizarre  old  relic  that  the  white-haired  priests  who  totter 
about  the  park-like  grounds,  and  unconsciously  harmonize 
with  the  ancient  character  of  the  buildings,  will  even  recount 
to  the  visitor  how  the  very  temples  themselves  are  built  after 
the  lines  of  Buddha's  face  —  the  great  Dai-Kddd  and  the  two 
flanking  structures  forming  his  head;  the  Pagoda  and  the 
Kondd  his  eyes,  and  the  huge  Nio-mon  his  mouth  1 

The  temples  and  their  subsidiary  structures  stand  within  and  without  a 
walled  inclosiire,  on  the  slope  of  a  hill  behind  Horyu-ji  village  (Inn:  Dai' 
koku-ya,  ¥2  to  ¥3  a  day),  about  f  M.  S.W.  of  the  station  (20  min.  walk: 
Jinriki,  40  sen  for  the  round  trip,  with  a  wait  of  about  1  hr.),  at  the  end  of 
a  wide  highway.  The  gate  here  is  the  Nandai-mon  (S.  gate),  and  the  one 
beyond  —  the  main  gateway  —  the  Nid-mon,  or  Gate  of  the  Two  Deva 
Kings  (one  painted  black,  the  other  red).  One  can  scarcely  avoid  emplojdng 
one  of  the  several  local  guides  who  loiter  about  the  Nio-mon  (25  sen  for  one 
person  or  a  small  party  is  ample),  since  they  sometimes  carry  the  quaint 
keys  which  unlock  the  mediseval  Chinese  and  Korean  locks,  and  the  long, 
slender  hook  with  which  to  shoot  the  massive  bars.  An  entraiooe  fee  of  2  sen 
is  exacted  at  the  gate,  another  of  20  sen  to  see  the  Kondd,  and  20  more  for 
the  godown  where  the  chief  treasiires  are  kept.  If  possible  the  interiors 
should  be  inspected  on  a  bright  day,  as  some  of  them  are  so  stained  and 
blackened  by  the  incense  smoke  of  centuries  that  they  look  gloomy  even  at 
midday.  Twilight  comes  early  in  the  winter,  and  at  all  seasons  the  doors 
clank  and  grind  to  at  4  p.m.  The  wide  corridors  of  posts  and  palings  which 
flank  the  ancient  structures  also  inclose  them.  The  method  of  viewing  the 
several  buildings  varies  according  to  whether  visitors  come  in  the  ordinary 
way  or  bring  special  letters  of  admission  to  rooms  dosed  oustomMily  and 
opened  only  to  them.  We  begin  our  inspection  of  the  group  with 

The  Pagoda,  an  antique  5-storied  structure  which  stands 
at  the  left  in  the  compound,  a  harmony  of  reds  and  yellows 
surmounted  by  a  spiral,  bronze  demon-arrester.  Barring  the 
tiles  of  the  roof  the  construction  is  in  the  old  Nara  style,  with 
the  beams  sunk  in  the  whitewashed  plaster.  The  placement  of 
these,  illustrative  of  a  period  when  the  effects  of  thrust  and 
strain  were  imperfectly  understood,  strikes  the  critical  eye  of 
the  architect  as  very  pecuhar.  Equally  so  are  the  squat  de- 
monlets  (Oriental  Atlases)  which  support  the  beams  of  the 
lower  story,  and  the  larger,  sculptured  wood  images  which  up- 
hold those  above;  the  structure  is  low  for  the  number  of  its 
stories  (between  which  the  customary  spaces  have  been  les- 
sened), and  its  general  massiveness  and  its  air  of  snu^^sUng 
closely  to  the  ground  suggest  that  it  was  constructed  «A.«b^sa&!& 
when  earthquakes  were  more  violent  than  at  pteeeat^  Asi^^ 


586    Roiiie  34.  HORYU-JI  The  Kondd. 

chapel  on  the  lower  floor  are  four  curious  grottoes  (sometimes 
called  Buddha's  Grottoes)  which  the  traveler  will  often  see 
duplicated  in  other  parts  of  the  Empire.  By  means  of  groups 
of  figurines  made  of  white  and  polychrome  terra-cotta  mixed 
with  vegetable  fiber,  and  stalactites  and  stalagmites  of  the 
same  materials,  coupled  with  stucco,  various  scenes  are  de- 
picted; one  being  Shumisen^  a  sort  of  fabled  Hindu  Olympus; 
Buddha's  Death  and  Entombment;  the  Guarding  of  his  mortal 
remains  by  his  faithful  adherents;  His  Entry  into  Nirvana;  and 
Amida  with  Kwarmon  and  Daiseishi.  The  attitudes  of  the  small 
figures  are  surprisingly  realistic,  and  they  seem  to  possess  a 
strong  attraction  for  Japanese  (perhaps  oecause  the  work  is 
that  of  ToriBu^shif  or  Kuratsukuribe  no  Toriy  a  famous  painter 
and  sculptor  who  lived  during  the  reign  of  the  Empress  Suiko, 
593-628).  Some  are  shown  plunged  in  the  deepest  despair; 
others  in  the  attitude  of  prater  or  adoration;  others  on  guard, 
like  soldiers;  and  still  others  indulging  in  vociferous  lamenta- 
tion. 

The  KoNDo.  which  stands  at  the  right  of  the  pagoda,  is 
a  bizarre,  double  (or  triple)  roofed  structure  with  wide  over- 
hanging eaves,  and  roofs  with  a  decidedly  lower  pitch  than 
those  of  present-day  Buddhist  temples.  It  looks  its  great  age 
and  seems  almost  ready  to  fall  by  its  own  weight;  the  roof- 
tiles,  and  the  scowling  demons,  with  minatory  tusks  and  great 
hooked  noses  that  form  the  antefixes,  are  not  as  aged  as  the 
building  itself.  Note  the  well-carved  ascending  and  descend- 
ing dragons  of  wood  which  are  entwined  about  the  four  sup- 
porting posts  of  the  upper  roof,  and  the  mythological  animals 
which  have  the  appearance  of  being  crushed  beneath  the 
brackets  of  the  porch-like  extension  of  the  ground  floor.  The 
supporting  beams  rest  on  great  flat  undressed  stones,  and  the 
general  appearance  of  the  structure  is  of  great  strength  coupled 
with  mediseval  simplicity.  The  time-blackened  interior,  with 
its  rough-hewn  beams,  is  a  surprise  to  one  accustomed  to  the 
blazing  gold  and  the  sprightly  decorations  of  other  Buddhist 
fanes,  but  the  treasures  enshrined  offset  the  impression  and 
gladden  the  eye  of  the  antiquary.  Among  the  score  or  more 
figures  on  the  central  platform,  the  most  conspicuous  is  the 
strange  central  group  beneath  the  smudgy  baldachin.  Sitting 
on  a  square  pedestal  and  backed  each  by  an  aureola  of  the  form 
called  vesica  pisdSy  is  an  inspiring  image  of  SakycMnuni  flanked 
by  (left)  Nikkoi)osatsu,  and  (right)  Gwakko-bosalsu  —  all 
strangely  archaic  and  with  a  hieratic  charm  that  differentiates 
them  from  any  similar  group  in  Japan.  It  is  attributed  to  Tori 
Busshij  dates  from  a.d.  625,  and  is  beUeved  to  be  the  most  an- 
cient copper-bronze  sculpture  in  Japan.  The  voluminous  folds 
of  the  drapery  are  characteristic  of  the  most  primitive  Japan- 
ese art  under  /Sino-Korean  influences,  while  the  unmists^ble 
Hindu  features  point  to  tYie  ao\«efc  ol  XJofc  vaa^^iration.    The 


The  DairKodd,  HORYU-JI  3^.  Route.    587 

sculptured  wood  image  at  the  right  is  Bishamonten,  and  the 
statuesque  one  at  the  left,  Kichijd'tennd  (his  sister).  On  a 
square  pedestal  at  the  left  is  a  seated  figure  of  Yakushi-Nyorai 
siUTOunded  by  4  minor  figures.  Among  the  host  of  bizarre 
sculptured  wood  images  are  4  noteworthy  Shi-tenno  standing 
-on  venomous  gnomes;  they  date  from  the  Suiko  period  and 
axe  of  Indian  origin.  Certain  of  the  statues  have  thin  faces 
^with  pointed,  bat-like  ears;  others  have  ideally  calm  faces, 
^while  still  others  seem,  by  their  fierce  looks  and  angry  gestures, 
to  resent  their  smoke-begrimed  surroundings. 

Behind  the  central  shrine  is  a  portable  one  containing  a  re- 
Tnarkably  faithful  reproduction,  on  a  much  smaller  scale,  and 
in  gilded  bronze,  of  the  prominent  group  mentioned  above  — 
.SakycHmunij  with  Nikko-  and  Gwakko-boscUsu;  the  common 
belief  is  that  it  is  very  early  Japanese  work  or  a  Korean  copy 
of  the  original.  It  is  greatly  revered  because  it  was  the  chosen 
shrine  of  the  Empress  Komyd,  Among  the  most  noteworthy 
of  the  treasures,  one  which  the  traveler  should  not  omit  to  see, 
is  a  square  shrine  or  reliquary  of  red-  and  black-lacquered  wood 
and  bronze,  delicately  and  intricately  chiseled,  and  mounted 
on  a  pedestal,  like  a  missal-stand.  It  enshrines  a  sm^l  gilded 
KwannoTiy  is  of  Hindu  origin,  and  is  perhaps  the  most  ancient 
object  of  its  class  in  Japan.  The  interior  is  enriched  with  slips 
of  gilded  bronze  on  which  are  hundreds  of  exquisitely  painted 
little  Buddhas  seated  on  lotus  flowers;  while  the  small  paneled 
doors  are  adorned  with  refined  paintings  of  tiny  birds  and 
landscapes.  Time  was  when  the  entire  outer  skin  was  formed 
of  the  iridescent  golden-green  wings  of  the  tiny  ChrysochLora 
{Tamamitshi)y  whence  the  name  Tamamiishi-^nO'Zushi.  It  was 
the  personal  property  of  the  Empress  Suiko y  who  died  a.d.  628! 

The  great  frescoes  which  cover  the  walls,  mayhap  the  most 
splendid  mural  paintings  that  ever  adorned  a  Japanese  temple, 
are  ascribed  to  the  Korean  bonze  Donchd,  who  came  to  Japan 
in  A.D.  610  and  brought  with  him  many  Buddhist  images  and 
books.  Inexorable  time  and  the  elements  have  united  to  de- 
stroy these  grandiose  specimens  of  antique  art,  and  only  the 
most  salient  details  can  now  be  decipher^!.  They  are  strongly 
Byzantine  in  suggestion,  and  possess  an  aflGinity  with  Assyrio- 
Byzantine  art.  —  The  Dai-K6d5,  or  Great  Lecture  Hall,  at  the 
back  of  the  inclosure,  is  less  interesting  than  the  Kanddy  and  the 
immense  gilded  and  seated  ima^e  of  Yakushi-Nyorai^  flanked  by 
Nikko-  and  Gwakko-bosatsuy  differ  but  little  from  those  in  tne 
other  rooms.  —  The  Taishi-den,  or  Shoryo-den  (Room  of  the 
holy  spirit  of  the  Prince),  dedicated  to  the  memory  of  Sho- 
toku-taishiy  is  reached  through  a  gate  in  the  wall  at  the  'right 
of  the  KondOy  but  it  is  rarely  shown  to  visitors. 

ShStoku-taishi  (b.  572;  d.  621),  the  2d  son  of  the  Emperor  Yonmi,  Ici  one 
t>f  the  greatest  figures  in  the  history  of  Buddhism  in  Jfti^n..  TbA  -nailan^Ri 
aistuUly  refer  to  bun  by  his  suraame  oi  C/matfodo,  gLveii  tA  Yaai>QMK»iK^\fiA 


588    Route  34.  HORYtJ-JI  SI^UiikuntoiM. 

mother,  whilst  walking  in  the  palace  srounds,  was  suddenly  seised  with  the 
pangs  of  child-birth  and  was  obliged  to  take  refuge  in  the  palace  stables 
Xumaya)  where  her  child  was  bom.  At  the  accession  of  his  aunt,  8uiko  (in 
593),  he  was  named  heir  to  the  throne,  and  thereafter  he  gave  material  sup- 
port to  the  Buddhist  cause;  selecting  three  tutras  oi-  the  Mahdydna  doctrine 
(p.  cxcO  he  ordered  them  to  be  taught  everywhere.  He  favored  the  tcuush- 
ing  of  Eji,  a  Korean  bonze,  and  among  other  temples  constructed  the  HdrjfH^ 
ji.  At  the  time  of  his  death  (aged  49]  there  were  46  temples,  820  fatonses,  and 
560  nuns  in  the  Empire.  It  was  during  his  reign  that  the  first  embassy  was 
sent  to  China.  Sftored  literature  was  one  of  his  specialties,  and  he  had  pub- 
lished two  works  of  historical  value:  the  Tennd-H,  and  the  Koku-ki,  He  pro- 
mulgated a  code  of  laws  in  17  chapters,  and  adopted  the  Chinese  calender 
(in  604).  He  is  usually  pictured  standing  between  his  two  little  sons  —  Ua 
favorites  among  the  8  sons  and  6  daughters  left  by  him. 

Obvious  features  of  the  interior  are  3  reliquaries  in  a  long, 
black»lacquered,  metal-adorned  case  (always  kept  locked)  whidi 
extends  along  the  back  wall;  the  metal  locks  of  this  are  quite 
curious,  being  boat-shaped  and  called  iVori-no-/wne — from  the 
fancied  shape  of  the  boat  in  which  departed  souls  are  borne 
across  the  river  of  death  to  the  Buddhist  Paradise.  The  inner 
decorations  of  all  the  reliquaries  are  of  the  same  design  — 
painted  panels  showing  lotus  flowers  and  leaves  on  a  gold 
ground.  The  central  one  contains  a  seated  wood  image  of  the 
Prince  a.t  35  yrs.  of  age;  the  right  one  a  standing  Jizo  of  sculp- 
tured wood,  an  image  of  one  of  the  Prince's  children  and  of 
his  Buddhist  teacher;  and  that  at  the  left  an  unusually  hand- 
some gilded  and  seated  Kwannon  (the  personal  property  of  tiie 
Prince)  in  an  attitude  of  deep  reflection;  the  nght  hand  held 
against  the  rounded  cheek,  and  the  right  leg  crossed  over  the 
lap.  The  two  kneeling  figures  with  soft,  sweet,  cherubic  faces, 
are  the  Taishi*s  favorite  children.  The  position  of  the  three 
figures  is  singularly  like  that  of  the  two  cherubs  and  the  Ma- 
donna of  San  Sisto.  The  gilded  wall  panels  at  the  right  and 
left  of  the  apartment  display  flying  phoenixes  and  are  said  to 
have  been  copied  from  the  decorations  of  the  Imperial  Palace 
erected  at  Nara  in  the  8th  cent.  From  this  room  a  series  of 
ancient  corridors  adorned  with  swinging  bronze  lanterns  lead 
to  the  astonishingly  old 

Hozo,  or  storehouse,  which  stands  about  6  ft.  above  the 
ground,  on  superannuated  uprights  whose  cross-beams  are 
piled  high  with  pebbles  placed  there  by  the  credulous  as 
prayers  to  the  spirits  associated  in  life  with  the  relics  inside. 
The  (uncatalogued)  exhibits  are  displayed  in  glass  cases  backed 
up  against  the  walls,  or  in  the  center  of  the  several  rooms. 
There  are  many  scores  of  curious  old  things:  wonderful  shrines 
and  images,  still  beautiful  kakemonos  of  celebrities  who  died 
a  thousand  or  more  yrs.  ago,  musical  instruments,  antique 
bronzes,  and  many  miscellaneous  things.  Duplicates  of  objects 
which  the  traveler  will  have  observed  in  many  other  collec- 
tions of  antiquities  in  Japan  are  the  small  cylindrical  pagoda- 
like  towers  of  turned  wood,  &bout  10  in.  high;  the  residue  of 
100,000  which  the  H5ryu-ji  oncfe  TpaaBeesBR&,  ^^4iQ«xt  of  the 


Treamre  Roam.  HORYtl-JI  '    S4.  Bauie.    589 

million  which  the  Empress  Kdken  (46th  sovereign  from  759 
to  764)  ordered  made  (with  a  primitive  turning-lathe)  and  dis- 
tributed to  ten  of  the  chief  temples  in  the  Nara  region.  They 
are  generally  referred  to  as  Hyakuman-td  (Million  Pagodas), 
and,  as  will  be  seen  by  the  relics  here,  each  carries  within  its 
hollow  interior  a  written  Buddhist  text.  History  often  refers 
to  this  early  suffragette,  for  she  it  was  who  ordered  5000  bonzes 
from  all  parts  of  the  Empire  to  foregather  at  the  Nara  Todai-jij 
and  hearken  as  she  read  to  them  from  the  sacred  books.  She 
was  instrumental  in  carrying  forward  the  plans  for  the  Nara 
Daibutsu,  and  when  she  assumed  office  she  passed  a  law  for- 
bidding under  severe  penalty  the  killing  of  any  living  thing. 

Among  the  strange  old  carved  wood  masks  are  some  of 
admirable  workmanship,  and  these  are  accompanied  by  the 
dnmis  and  swords  used  along  with  them  in  the  ancient  dances. 
Of  more  interest  than  the  specimen  of  Kdbd-Daishi'a  chiro- 
graphy  is  the  exquisite  little  gold-leaf  (paper)  prayer-book 
(calied  Hokkekyo  because  it  contains  a  secret  scripture  of  Bud- 
dhism read  specially  by  the  Buddhists  of  the  Hokke  denomina- 
tion), roll-shaped  and  written  in  a  charmingly  delicate  and 
graceful  hand  by  Sugawara  Michizane  (one  of  the  three  most 
famous  penmen  in  the  Empire;  oomp.  p.  496)  in  the  9th  cent.! 
Some  of  the  old  painted  kakemonos  are  marvels  of  composition 
expressed  in  light-proof  colors;  a  beautiful  one,  slightly  torn 
but  with  its  color-tones  still  low,  Imninous,  and  nch,  shows 
Shaka-Nyorai  seated  on  an  upturned  lotus  bloom  with  his  ever- 
faithful  Monju  and  Fugen  —  both  with  sweet,  pensive,  wom- 
anly faces  —  snuggling  at  his  feet.  The  same  elegance  marks  a 
very  interesting  Buddhist  Heaven,  wherein  are  a  score  of  deli- 
cately painted  figurines,  temples,  and  other  heavenly  attributes 
of  peculiar  hieratic  beauty.  Equally  charming  is  a  precious 
treasure  in  the  form  of  a  kakemono  showing  a  standing  figure 
of  Shotoku'taishi  at  the  age  of  16,  in  a  red  robe  covered  with  a 
black  mantle.  It  is  one  of  the  most  attractive  in  the  collection ; 
the  chubby,  boyish  face  has  frank,  innocent  eyes  that  look 
straight  out  with  engaging  friendliness;  the  sloe-black  hair  is 
bound  up  at  the  sides  after  a  very  antique  style ;  a  censer  is  held 
in  one  hand,  and  a  mauve  curtain  is  draped  behind  the  figure. 
When  one  reflects  that  this  picture  was  painted  by  the  loving 
hands  of  an  artist  who  has  been  dust  for  a  thousand  yrs.,  one  is 
apt  to  return  to  it  and  eagerly  to  search  the  bright,  youthful 
face  with  the  hope  of  surprising  therein  some  secret  of  the  lon^- 
dead  past.  The  antiquarian  will  wish  to  spend  hours  in  this 
wonderful  old  reliquary —  next  to  the  Shosd-in  the  most  fascin- 
ating in  Japan  —  for  the  relics  themselves  betoken  their  au- 
thenticity, and  their  historical  associations  are  as  interesting 
as  they  are  manifold.  —  The  bronze  fountains  and  other  ob- 
jects in  the  temple  yard  are  worth  glancing  at  as  one  proceeds 
to  the  main  gate  before  quitting  the  inclosiice.  Oxl<(:^  o\]^r 


590    Route  34.    '  HORYC-JI  HaU  of  Dreams. 

mde,  we  turn  to  the  right  and  approach,  by  a  succession  o^ 
stepfl, 

The  Mine  no  Yakushi,  an  octagonal  shrine  on  a  terrace 
where  there  is  a  handsome  bronze  dragon  and  a  laver  of  the 
same  metal  (left).  Here  Ya^ciishi  is  deified  as  the  God  of  Medi* 
cine,  and  the  structure  which  houses  his  finely  gilded  image 
(ascribed  to  Gyogi-bosatsu)  is  as  cluttered  up  with  tawdry 
offerings  as  the  shrine  of  some  alleged  miracle-working  Span- 
ish virgin.  Outside  and  inside  almost  every  inch  is  covered 
with  ex-votos  and  gifts  of  some  kind;  the  swords  represent  the 
heart  of  man,  the  mirrors  that  of  woman.  The  hundreds  of  bun- 
dles of  little  wood  drills  (used  by  the  Medicine  God  to  punc- 
ture the  unhearing  ear)  are  acknowledgments  of  persons  cured 
of  deafness.  The  most  casual  eye  cannot  overlook  the  scores 
of  lurid  little  pictures  portraying  semi-nude,  gratified  mothers, 
in  many  attitudes,  but  chiefly  sitting  before  pans,  buckets, 
and  even  tubs  of  foaming  milk  that  has  spurted  from  abnormaUy 
developed  fountains  of  youth  —  the  results  of  prayers  put  up 
for  a  sufficiency  of  the  lacteal  fluid  to  keep  young  Japan  aUve! 
The  interior  of  the  shrine  bears  a  striking  resemblance  to  a 
junk-shop,  and  will  detain  the  traveler  only  long  enough  to 
inspect  some  of  the  quaint  sword-guards  tacked  against  the 
walls,  and  the  12  Signs  of  the  Zodiac  (by  Tori  Busshi)  which 
flank  the  figure  of  Yakushi. — At  the  opposite  end  of  the  temple 
compound  is 

The  YuME-DONO,  or  Hall  of  Dreams  (so-called  because  Sho' 
toku-taishi  used  to  sit  here  and  ponder  over  the  truths  of  the 
Buddhist  faith),  an  octagonal  structure  which  stands  on  a 
raised  granite  platform  and  is  surmounted  by  a  hoshu-no-tatna. 
The  few  images  it  contains  are  not  of  much  interest;  the  big 
gilt  one  is  Amidat  the  standing  figure  is  Shdtokvrtaishi  at  16; 
the  Kwannon  in  the  central  reUquary  was  the  Prince's  special 
favorite.  The  seated  figures  of  priests  are  well-carved  —  as  is 
almost  everything  of  this  nature  in  Japan.  The  building  at  the 
right  is  the  Worshiping  Hall  and  is  of  no  interest;  that  at  the 
left  is  divided  into  iheShari-^n  (at  the  right  of  the  short  hall) 
and  the  Eden.  The  former  is  celebrated  locally  for  a  small  crys- 
tal reliquary  swathed  in  numerous  silk  wrappings  and  exposed 
each  day  at  noon  so  that  the  credulous  may  see  (for  10  sen)  the 
pupil  of  Buddha's  left  eye!  —  a  small,  whitish  bit  of  rubbish 
that  bears  a  strong  resemblance  to  a  quartz  pebble.  The  Eden 
contains  a  series  of  wall-panels  painted  in  noisy  and  inharmon- 
ious colors  portraying  scenes  in  the  life  of  Shotoku-taishi  — 
the  site  of  whose  palace  the  present  structure  is  said  to  occupy. 
Just  behind  the  Shari-den  and  Eden  is  the  old  (erected  by 
Emperor  Shdmu  in  740)  Demho-ddj  which  contains  a  number  of 
statues,  chief  among  them  Jizo  and  9  figures  illustrative  of  epi- 
sodea  in  the  life  of  Amida.  Still  farther  back  in  the  compound 
is  the  Chugu-jif  &i^oriw^Vi\^^A\s^^iiS!L^^^ 


Ezcursiom.        NARA  TO  HASE-DERA      S4,  me.    591 

here  are  kept  some  bits  of  embroidery  nearly  1300  yrs.  old;  some 
faded  kakemonos j  and,  in  the  main  shrine,  a  fine  and  rare,  time- 
blackened  wood  image  of  a  Nyorin  Kwannon^  said  to  have 
been  carved  by  Shdtokwtaishi.  The  gateway  at  this  end  of  the 
compound  is  nearer  to  the  riy.  station  than  the  main  gate. 

The  Temples  of  Miwa  and  '^Hase-dera,  thence  vi&  Sakwai 
to  Unehi  and  the  Tumulus  and  Mausoleum  of  Jimm|i  Tenn5 
(E.  PI.  C,  3),  maybe  included  in  a  popular,  all-dav  excursion; 
a  luncheon  should  be  taken,  and  a  guide  is  useful.  An  early 
start  is  advisable  unless  one  elects  to  visit  the  temples  only. 
There  are  frequent  trains,  and  the  short  trip  through  ancient 
Yamato,  the  very  heart  of  old  Japan,  is  replete  with  charm. 
Hase-dera,  8th  on  the  list  of  the  Thirty-three  Holy  Places  Sacred 
to  Kwannon,  is  one  of  the  most  famous  temples  in  Japan  and 
is  of  a  picturesqueness  which  must  be  seen  to  be  appreciated. 
The  li  M.  walk  (jinriki,  25  sen)  from  Mivm  Station  to  Jionji, 
where  one  boards  the  tram  for  Hose  village,  can  be  made  in  30 
min.;  the  road  is  excellent.  If  the  traveler  does  not  concern 
himself  about  Jimmu  Tenno^  the  m3rthical  founder  of  the  Japan- 
ese Empire,  he  may  vary  the  excmision  by  going  first  to  Hose, 
thence  to  Sakuraij  and  on  to  Tonominey  but  this  will  involve 
an  8  M.  walk  (going  and  returning)  over  a  roughish  road.  In 
springtime,  when  the  farmers  are  busy  with  their  fields,  jin- 
rikis  are  apt  to  be  scarce,  and  those  who  want  them  should 
have  the  hotel  manager  telephone  ahead  to  the  station  master 
at  Sakurai  to  have  them  in  readiness.  The  train  leaves  from 
(a  fast  20  min.  walk)  Kyohate  Station  (PI.  B,  4),  15  min.  by  rik- 
isha  (25  sen).  The  town  of  Miwa  (fare,  1st  cl.  48  sen ;  2d  cl.  29 
sen),  where  one  leaves  the  train  is  11  M.  distant  (a  40  min. 
run).  The  rly.  (a  branch  line  between  Nara  and  Oji  Jet.)  tra- 
verses a  level  country  delimned  by  high  hills  clothed  in  decidu- 
ous, evergreen,  and  maple  trees  and  dotted  with  farmsteads. 
The  fine  Yamato  Plain  —  the  earliest  historic  center  of  Japan- 
ese culture  —  is  very  fertile,  and  the  farmhouses,  many  with 
plastered  walls  newly  whitewashed,  look  comfortable  and 
thrifty.  The  roofs  embody  various  architectural  differences, 
and  are  unusually  picturesque.  Conspicuous  among  them  are 
the  small  square  roof-sections,  like  miniature  temple-roofs, 
which  sit  astride  the  ridges  a  foot  or  so  above  them  and  serve 
as  exits  for  smoke  and  as  ventilating  holes.  Not  a  few  of  the 
pan-tiled  roofs  are  embellished  wifli  scowling  demon  faces, 
sprightly  little  Dogs  of  Fo  standing  on  their  fore  legs  and  with 
their  hindquarters  upraised,  fishes  standing  on  their  tails,  gods 
of  good  luck,  and  what-not.  Again  some  are  of  golden  brown 
straw  with  ridges  held  down  by  lines  of  tightly  corded  sheaves; 
others  have  tile  ridges,  and  certain  ones  have  adopted  the  style 
of  roof  used  on  Shintd  shrines  excepting  that  the  ridges  and 
borders  are  of  tiles. 

The  Miwa  Jinbha  is  5  min.  wa&  N.E.  ot  \h<&  Mi'uxx  StoXvm 


592    RU.  34.     NARA  TO  HASE-DERA         EzcuniaM. 

(cross  the  rly.  line  by  the  stone  bridge  at  the  right),  at  the  up- 
per end  of  a  long  avenue  flanked  on  both  sides  by  lanterns;  it 
is  picturesquely  situated  on  the  side  of  a  conifer-  and  cr3rpto- 
meria-covered  hill  (which  serves  as  the  inner  shrine  and  is  wor- 
shiped in  lieu  thereof),  and  is  dedicated  to  the  Shinto  god, 
Omononushi  no  kami.  The  entrance  is  guarded  by  two  big 
gray  granite  Dogs  of  Fo.  The  glistening  16-petal  chrysan- 
themum crests  which  adorn  the  roof  of  the  Haiden  proclaim 
the  royal  patronage.  Many  bronze  lanterns  swing  beneath  tiie 
eaves;  according  to  the  Shinto  custom  the  interior  is  plain  to 
austeritv  and  contains  nothing  to  interest  the  traveler.  —  In- 
stead of  returning  to  (and  beyond)  the  station,  walkers  may 
strike  the  highway  from  Miioa  to  Jionji  (starting-point  for 
Ha^e  village)  by  following  the  path  at  the  right  as  it  winds 
across  the  fields.  The  broad  road  runs  N.E.  and  parallels 
(right)  the  narrow  but  swift  and  sparkling  Hose  River,  Jionji 
is  soon  descried  nestling  in  a  pocket  of  the  hills,  with  a  pretty, 
well-cultivated  little  valley  as  its  front  yard.  The  tram-cars 
which  run  from  Sakurai  to  Hose  (over  the  Hose  Kidd  Line) 
stop  frequently  at  Jionji  (time  to  Hose,  10  min.;  fare,  9  sen). 
At  the  village  we  turn  up  at  the  left  and  follow  the  main  street 
— the  old  highway  between 0«afca  and  (about  75  M.)  Yamadch 
laCf  with  its  renowned  shrine.  Scattered  among  the  pretty 
little  shops  which  flank  the  street  are  numerous  inns  (Itani^ya, 
and  others)  which  cater  to  the  wants  of  the  hundreds  of  pilgrims 
who  come  each  year  to  the  temple.  This  stands  near  the  top  of 
the  town  (left  of  the  main  street,  15  min.  from  the  station; 
jinriki,  20  sen)  on  a  commanding  site  on  the  upper  slope  of 
a  thickly  wooded  hill,  whence  one  may  enjoy  a  superb  view 
over  the  house-tops  to  other  hills  across  the  valley.  The  situa- 
tion is  strikingly  picturesque,  and  in  its  apparent  effort  to 
maintain  its  equilibrium  the  old  temple  and  its  satellites  rest 
on  scores  of  huge  beams,  and  sections  of  scaffolding  that  re- 
mind one  of  the  Kiyomizu-dera  at  Kyoto. 

Successive  flights  of  stone  steps  lead  up  from  the  end  of 
the  street  to  the  lower  gate  —  which  is  finished  in  the  natu- 
ral wood  and  has  a  graceful  roof  and  balcony  with  many  spir- 
ited carvings  (phoenixes,  birds,  monkeys,  etc.)  harmoniously 
blended  with  the  background.  The  kiku  crests  so  much  in 
evidence  are  those  of  the  reigning  Mikado.  From  this  gate 
(note  the  rich  carvings  on  the  inner  side,  and  the  loggias  with 
their  great  Deva  Kings)  there  slopes  upward  a  long,  tile-cov- 
ered gallery  (236  steps)  with  a  host  of  carved  keyaki  beams 
from  which  swing  scores  of  bronze  lanterns.  The  peony-beds 
at  the  right  and  left  are  at  their  best  about  mid-May.  After 
inspecting  the  fine  bm  '  '°^on-fountain  at  the  first  landing 
(left),  one  crosses  rched  stone  bridge  and  mounts 

(72  Btepa)  a  la  ^un**  wxetal  lanterns  and 

flanked  by  stoo  sdsns  (adorable 


Main  Temple.  HASE-DERA  34.  EauJte.    5d3 

Sn  spring,  when  the  azaleas  flame  out  in  a  burst  of  color  that 
rivals  the  exquisite  cherry  blooms  for  which  the  temple  is  fam- 
ous) are  held  in  place  on  the  hillside  by  massive  stone  retain- 
ing-walls.  A  third  corridor  leads  up  at  an  angle  from  the  2d 
landing)  and  90  steepish  steps  bring  one  to  the  final  terrace, 
blown  but  triimiphant,  and  amazed  at  the  beauty  of  the  pan- 
orama spread  out  below.  The  eye  of  the  architect  will  not  fail 
to  note  the  curious  old  bell-tower  which  sits  astride  the  top  of 
the  gallery  here,  as  if  to  hold  it  down  and  prevent  it  from  slid- 
ing down  upon  the  town  far  below. 

Before  beginning  the  inspection  of  the  temple  one  may  elect 
to  step  to  the  Jizo  Shrine^  at  the  extreme  right  of  the  terrace 
and  from  the  platform  there  (seats  on  which  to  rest)  enjoy  the 
sweeping  view  of  the  town,  the  Hdse-^awaj  and  the  verdurous 
hills  which  rise  beyond  them.  The  lordly  hill  at  the  left,  with 
its  trees  of  many  shades  of  green,  is  Yokisan.  The  brilliant 
sunshine  which  pours  into  this  sheltered  pocket  of  the  hills 
keeps  the  roses  blooming  in  the  temple  garden  until  January. 
3Porever  basking  in  the  genial  beams  of  the  sun,  within  the 
doorway  of  the  Jizo  Shrine^  is  an  old  fortune-telling  priest,  who 
ekes  out  a  scanty  livelihood  by  selling  printed  slips  to  credu- 
lous pilgrims  —  all  of  whom  draw  the  lucky  number,  and  each 
of  whom  fervently  thanks  his  stars  that  his  fate  is  not  as  pic- 
tured on  the  lurid  painting  in  the  corridor.  Here  a  Buddhist 
Heaven  —  a  doleful-looking  place  —  has  been  planned  out  by 
some  one  with  an  eye  for  color  and  a  vivid  imagination:  at  the 
bottom  of  the  picture  a  host  of  gleeful  demons  are  seen  blud- 
geoning a  squad  of  unhappy  wights  tied  to  posts,  pitchforking 
others  into  cauldrons  of  boiling  oil,  or  turning  them  over  to  ex- 
X>ose  the  uncooked  side  to  the  sizzling  gridiron.  At  another 
point  a  half-score  of  sinful  beings  stand  waist-deep  in  a  lake  of 
blue  fire  or  suffer  being  pushed  back  as  they  essay  to  scramble 
out! 

The  *Main  Temple,  or  Kwannon-dd  (Hall  of  Kwannon  — 
known  also  as  Hase-dera^  and  as  the  Chdkoku-ji)j  dates  from 
1650  and  stands  on  the  site  of  the  original  temple  founded  in 
the  8th  cent.  It  is  known  throughout  Japan  for  a  colossal 
gilded  figure  (26  ft.  high)  of  the  J u-dchi-^men,  or  Eleven-faced 
KwannoUy  said  to  have  been  carved  (presumably  in  1191)  from 
a  single  piece  of  camphor-wood,  by  a  Chinese  sculptor,  fit  is 
believed  that  originally  there  were  two  pieces  of  this  wood  and 
that  the  2d  half  was  used  in  the  carving  of  the  gigantic  Kwan- 
non at  the  Hase-no-Kwannon  Temple  at  Kamakura.l  If  the 
main  (rear)  doors  are  closed  the  priestly  custodian  will  be  found 
in  the  temple-oflfice  behind  the  side  door  at  the  right.  On  pay- 
ment of  3  sen  one  is  conducted  down  through  a  darksome  cor- 
ridor, then  into  a  lofty  but  crowded  room  where  the  great  im- 
age stands.  It  looks  30  ft.  tall,  and  is  heavily  tslded,  ItoislV^^ 
minor  heads  which  surmount  the  small  Kwannom,  on  >i}b&  txviii^tw 


1  down  to  the  huge,  highly  polished  feet,  iu  i»«^ 
>he  idol  is  a  vase  with  a  lotus  flower,  and  in  the  right  a  pi 
m's  staff  (ahakujo)  with  its  top  armed  with  metal  rings* 
le  great  gilt  mandorla  is  adorned  with  gold  Sanscrit  charac— 
rs.  As  the  figure  stands  it  brings  the  broad  face  level  witbft 
le  aperture  formed  by  the  tall  swinging  doors  opening  on  to 
le  Naijin  (where  it  is  seen  as  a  great  framed  picture),  and  the 
ffect,  as  it  gazes  out  through  the  ex-voto  hall  to  the  distant 
nts.,  is  peculiarly  striking.  —  The  four  large  paintings  on  the 
«^all  at  the  right  and  left  represent  the  gaudy  and  piratical- 
appearing  ruffians  known  as  the  Shv-tenno;  beneath,  extending 
quite  round  the  room,  are  painted  wood  panels  portraying 
the  Thirty-three  Terrestrial  Manifestations  of  Kwannon — as 
curious  in  conception  as  The  Revelation  in  the  New  Te3ta- 
ment.  Passing  round  the  flanking  corridor  we  come  to  the 
handsome  gilded  shrine  commemorating  the  soldiers  who  died 
in  the  Japan-Russia  War;  the  huge  banner  with  its  hundreds  of 
written  names  is  a  sort  of  register  of  those  who  have  contri- 
buted appreciable  sums  to  the  improvement  of  the  temple. 
In  a  side  room  at  the  left  is  a  big  carved  and  seated  wood  figure 
of  Jizo,  surrounded  by  hundreds  of  offerings.  Returning  to  the 
corridor  at  the  rear  we  come  to  a  standing  gilt  figure  of  Ktoan^ 
rum  before  a  large  mural  painting,  in  harmonious  colors,  of 
Jizb-  and  25  other  bosatsus.  Just  outside  the  doors  here  are 
two  small  metal  wheels  hung  loosely  on  pivots,  and  tied  around 
with  paper  prayers.  The  pilgrims  set  these  to  whirling  and  if 
the  wheel  stops  when  the  prayer  is  at  the  bottom,  the  wish 
written  on  it  will  be  fulfilled.  The  man^  thin  bamboo  strips 
in  a  box  are  used  as  tallies  by  the  pilgnms,  who  wash  them- 
selves clean  of  all  their  sins  by  circling  the  building  1000  times! 
Among  the  well-carved  wood  figures  of  saints  in  the  last  cor- 
ridor is  one  of  Kobo-Daishi,  A  time-blackened  statue  of  Dai- 
nichi'  Nyorai  sits  before  a  large  mandorla  showing  a  duplicate 
bust  of  him.  The  glass-eyed  figure  at  the  left,  also  badly  black- 
ened by  the  smoke  of  incense  during  centuries,  is  of  Tokudo- 
ShoniUy  founder  of  the  temple.  The  face  of  the  great  Kwannon 
is  very  attractive  when  seen  from  the  Naijin.    The  decora- 
tions of  the  frame  must  have  been  admirable  when  new;  those 
on  the  tall  swinging  door  panels  portray  the  Ju-nv-ten  and  are 
still  barbarically  opulent.  The  space  in  front  is  crowded  with 
metal  lanterns,  lotus  leaves,  artificial  flowers,  and  the  usual 
temple  altar  fitments;  the  panels  of  the  altar-base  carry  de- 
signs of  lotus  flowers  and  leaves.    A  host  of  little  bowls  before 
the  shrine  are  filled  with  daikoUy  rice-cakes,  and  other  vege- 
table offerings  to  the  deity.  —  The  Ex-voto  Hall  in  front, 
from  the  balcony  of  which  a  splendid  view  is  had  over  the 
"*»11ev,  is  filled  with  strange  offerings  —  lurid  paintings  and 
*^«  huge  circular  box  inclosed  in  a  wire  net  and 
• » -'NrrraDYxa  \a  8b  totcii^^jes.    The  seated  red 


TUMULUS  OF  JIMMU  TENNO    54-  Bte,    596 

figure  at  the  right  is  the  ostracized  Bimuru,  The  tcnrtoise^ 
pond  beneath  a  wistaria  arbor,  near  the  entrance  to  the  tem- 
ple, contains  many  tortoises  which  here  live  a  long  and  easy 
life.  From  the  yard  one  gets  a  good  view  of  the  fine  old  tem- 

Ele-roofs  (of  which  there  are  8,  counting  the  gables)  supported 
y  96  immense  keyaki  pillars,  some  of  which  are  nearly  3  ft. 
in  diameter.  The  two  big  mandaras  showing  each  a  half  of  the 
Buddhist  universe,  which  formerly  hun^  in  the  temple,  are 
now  boxed,  and  may  be  seen  on  application  at  the  temple  of- 
fice. A  celebrated  building  known  as  the  Sen-jo-jikif  which 
contains  a  thousand  mats,  and  which  was  formerly  the  abbot's 
residence,  was  recently  burned. 

There  are  a  number  of  pretty  Walks  over  the  hills  beyond 
the  temple,  as  well  as  along  the  crest  of  those  which  face  it. 
The  town  differs  so  little  from  the  ordinary  native  settlement 
that  it  need  not  detain  one.  —  Returning,  therefore,  to  the 
tram-station  we  proceed  (10  min.,  13  sen)  to  Sakurai.  a  nonde- 
script town  in  the  fertile  valley  of  the  Hckse-gaway  thence  (by 
Bteam  rly.,  3  M.,  10  sen)  to  fJnebi,  known  as  the  spot  near 
wMch  (at  the  foot  of  Unebiryamaf  visible  1  M.  at  the  left  — 
N.E.  —  of  the  station)  stands  the  (uninteresting)  Tumulus  of 
Jixnmu  Tenno  (a  15  min.  walk),  and  the  locally  extolled  (10 
min.  beyond)  Kashiwabara  JingU  —  a  Shintd  shrine  on  the  site 
of  his  ancient  palace.  Jinrikis  will  make  trip  from  the  station 
and  back  for  40  sen.    A  local  specialty  is  the  making  of  cotton 
yam  and  the  weaving  of  cloth;  almost  every  dwelling  is  an  em- 
bryonic factory,  and  not  only  does  one  stumble  over  the  yams 
stretched  through  the  streets,  but  the  waters  of  every  neav-by 
stream  are  stained  with  their  dyes.  —  Turning  left  from  the 
station  we  traverse  the  main  street,  which,  after  bending  far- 
ther to  the  left  and  passing  beneath  the  rly.  track,  broadens 
into  a  good  macadam  road.  The  (uninteresting)  Commercial 
Museum  is  passed  (right)  and  then  (left)  the  Tumulus  (a  low 
mound  in  the  center  of  a  tree-dotted  inclosure  to  which  en- 
trance is  forbidden)  of  the  (2d)  Emperor  Suisei  (b.c.  581-49), 
the  3d  son  of  Jimmu  TennOy  who  succeeded  his  (legendary) 
father  at  51.  The  stone  monument  beyond,  at  the  right,  com- 
memorates the  Japan-Russia  War.   There  are  several  Imperial 
tumuli  (misdsagi)  in  the  neighborhood,  surrounded  by  the 
granite  fences  which  characterize  them.  A  long,  low,  neatly 
trimmed  hedge  flanks  the  street  side  of  the  plot  containing  the 
supposed  grave  of  Jimmu.  Beyond  the  first  torii  is  a  well-cared- 
for  gravelly  inclosure  where  the  traveler  may  go,  provided  no 
repairs  are  imder  way;  the  grave  or  mound  is  imperfectly  seen 
at  the  right,  beyond  an  iron  gate  amidst  the  trees.  A  lively 
imagination  is  necessary  to  make  it  appear  interesting,  particu- 
larly in  view  of  the  fact  that  until  a  few  yrs.  ago  the  Japan- 
ese themselves  were  undecided  regarding  the  exaAt  lo<2a^Kcsc^ 
of  the  burial-place  of  this  shadowy  emperoT  oi  ^^otcltvonrt^Xi- 


I 


jemiael  No  inscription  marked  the  spot,  but  Jimmu'i  capita] 
is  thought  to  have  been  hereabout,  and  the  gold  and  silver 
ornaments,  pottery,  Bwords,  and  what-not  dug  up  (y>nvincal 
the  people  tiat  some  important  pereonage  waa  interred  here. 
The  indoaure  with  its  Imperial  ineignia  lies  within  the  Ln- 
perial  domain  and  dates  from  I8Ci3. 

Continuing  along  the  main  road  we  come  (10  min.)  to  the 
Kashiwabara  Jingu,  in  the  tonn  of  the  sacie  name;  there  art 
Bome  unusual  stone  lanterns  and  aome  madune-jiniiis  and  iron 
baskets  for  fagots  near  the  ehrine  inclosiire,  which  is  the  sup- 
posed site  of  Jimmu's  palace;  at  the  left  is  a  pretty  lotua-pond 
with  a  stone  bridge  adorned  with  S  bronze  gibashu.  The  main 
shrine  (no  admittance],  ct^Xed  Shir^'den,  is  supplemented  iiy 
an  interior  iVuMt-iioAoro,  halt-encircling  which  is  an  open  gat- 
lery  that  terminates  in  a  central  gat«  L'alled  Norito-ya.  The 
edifices  are  in  the  customary  SAinfO  stylo  with  b^iutiful  seal- 
brown  roofs  of  hinoki  bark,  and  handsome  cojjper-bronae  gut- 
ters. They  were  removed  hither  from  Kyoto  in  1890,  and  an 
planned  somewhat  after  the  Imperial  Palace  there.  The  lav 
rear  wall  with  its  5  horizontal  lines  betokens  ibt  Imperial  cW' 
acter.  The  inner  structure  is  divided  into  two  departmental 
one  (riftht)  where  the  custodian  (a  lady_  of  royal  lineage)  dwdll^ 
and  (left)  the  Kaahiki-dokoro,  or  'Awe-inspiring  Place,'  who^ 
is  a  copy  (original  at  Ise)  of  the  sacred  muror  given  to  Jimmit 
renno,  by  the  Sun  Goddess.   According  to  tradition  the  In>- 

"  il  PalaC) 


perial  Palace  here  was  burned  in  a.d.  090,  and  the  sacred  mir- 
ror flew  out  and  alighted  upon  a  cherry  tree,  where  it  waa  dis- 
covered by  one  of  the  Emperor's  female  attendants  {nai»hi)  — 
whence  the  name  of  the  rightrhand  apartment,  NaiskiHi^coro, 
or  'Imperial  .Court  apartment  where  the  Imperial  insignia  il 
kept.'  Henceforth  only  a  woman  of  royal  linea^  waa  pa- 
mitted  to  guard  the  treasure.  The  edifices  at  the  right  aie  the 


I    are  prepared.  —  The  annual  festival  of  the  shrine  falls 
'    April  3.   Many  of  the  alleged  relics  claimed  to  have  been  dug 


I 

^^f    up  in  the  neighborhood  are  spurious. 

^V  T6-no-mine,  or  Tamu-^io-Mine  (or  Ton-zan),  a  mt.,  in  Ya- 

^m  muf.o  (E,  PI.  C,  3),  distinguished  for  the  temple  erected  there 
V  in  the  7th  cent,  by  Fiaimara  Joi  in  honor  of  his  father  Ka- 
W  matari,  is  rarely  visited  by  the  hurried  traveler,  becauae  of  the 

W  minor  difficul  ties  of  rcachmg  it.  Japanese  sometimes  refer  to  il 

I  aa  the  Nikka  of  the  Kansai  region,  because  of  the  fine  forests 

in  the  neighborhood,  and  also'  because  the  decorations  of  the 
NikkB  maUBolea  are  thought  to  have  been  insinred  by  those 
of  this  structure.  TlieiQBaiTC)mSo:fciu.To.i<,thepoint  of  depar- 
ture) is  rocky,  and  iiniiViB  areo^^'i.'OLBiiaB-,&%cwA.-wiatiet™ii 
make  the  outward  tiip  ^4^.  V>l.\*aV'^^;i>^\;^^>^ 


Sxewrsiona.  YQSmNO-YAMA        S4.  Route,    697 

for  the  exertion.  The  25  superb  sculptured  and  gilded  figures 
which  composed  the  so-called  Heavenly  Band,  and  which  long 
made  the  temple  worth  going  to  see,  are  now  at  Mr,  Okura^a 
private  museum  in  Tokyd.  The  old,  weather-beaten  structure 
is  a  good  example  of  RydhuShinto  architecture,  and  the  13- 
roof ed  pagoda  is  unique.  Tradition  has  it  that  Jo4  brought 
12  stories  of  the  structure  with  him  from  China  and  that  there 
was  not  enough  room  in  the  junk  for  the  13th,  but  that  this, 
refusing  to  be  separated  from  its  companions,  flew  after  the 
craft  and  rejoined  them  here!  The  decorations  of  all  the  now 
decaying  structures  are  faded,  and  with  the  sculptures  differ 
but  little  from  those  of  other  temples.  Some  fine  maples  sur- 
round the  buildings,  and  the  cherry-blossom  display  in  April 
is  pretty.  On  the  return  down  the  mt.  one  gets  good  views  of 
distant  hills  and  valleys. 

7*o-mMnin«,  or  Conference  Peak,  is  often  referred  to  in  history  in  con- 
nection with  the  (35th)  Empreaa  Kdgyoku  (642-45),  whom  a  bold  nobleman, 
SogormO'Iruka,  wished  to  replace,  and  whom  Pujiwara  Kamatari  (614-69) 
planned  with  friends  to  assassinate.  At  one  time  the  temple  was  prosperous 
and  powerful  and  it  bore  an  unpleasant  reputation  for  the  political  intrigues 
hatched  there.  '  The  years  1081  and  1082  (says  Mr.  Murdoch)  were  con- 
vulsed  with  armed  stnfe  between  the  Nara  Kofuku-ji  and  the  monastery  of 
Tamurno-mine.  When  about  970  the  abbot  of  Hiei-zan  formed  a  corps  of 
mercenaries  to  protect  the  monastery  and  its  possessions,  and  to  prosecute 
its  quarrels  with  its  rivals  and  foes,  the  example  was  promptly  followed  by 
other  great  religious  foundations,  among  whicn  the  Kofuku-ji  of  Nara  came 
to  be  notorious.  By  the  end  of  the  1 1th  cent,  a  number  of  great  fanes  could 
readily  place  several  thousand  men  in  the  field  at  a  very  short  notice.  Each 
of  them  had  become  a  huge  Cave  of  Adullam,  —  a  refuge  for  every  sturdy 
knave  with  a  soul  above  earning  a  livelihood  by  the  commonplace  drudgery 
of  work.  Each  of  them  had  in  truth  assimied  the  aspect  of  a  great  fortress 
garrisoned  by  a  turbulent  rabble  of  armed  ruffians.  And  each  of  them  had 
degenerated  into  a  hotbed  of  vice,  where  the  most  important  precepts  of  the 
moral  code  were  openly  and  wantonly  flouted.  In  truth,  at  this  date,  11(X) 
A.D.,  Buddhism  in  Japan  from  a  moral  point  of  view  was  in  not  a  whit  better 
case  than  was  the  Church  of  Rome  between  the  death  of  Sylvester  II  and  the 
election  of  Leo  IX* 

Yoshino-yama  (E,  PI.  C,  4),  a  hill  9  M.  to  the  S.E.  of  Td^no- 
mine  (in  Nara  Prefecture,  Yamato  Province) .  praised  through- 
out Japan  for  its  attractive  cherry  trees  (blossoms  in  April), 
and  for  its  many  historical  associations,  is  best  reached  by  rly. 
from  Nara  to  (24  M.)  Yoshinoguchif  thence  on  foot  (in  4  hrs.) 
or  by  jinriki  (in  3  hra;  fare  ¥3.  60;  lower  in  the  off  season) 
vid  the  Miuia  Bridge  to  Yoshino  town  (pop.  1500).  The  place 
is  composed  almost  solely  of  inns  {Kado-yaj  Tatsumi-ya,  etc., 
¥2-3)  erected  to  accommodate  the  hordes  of  pilgrims  and 
sightseers  who  come  hither  in  the  spring  to  view  the  most 
superb  exhibition  of  cherry  blossoms  to  be  seen  in  Japan,  and 
to  pray  in  the  numerous  temples  which  dot  the  environs.  One 
of  the  numerous  hills  which  shut  in  the  town  is  entirely  cov- 
ered with  patriarchal  trees,  the  sons  of  earlier  ones  planted 
here  ages  ago.  They  are  grouped  in  masses  supposed  to  con- 
tain a  thousand  trees  each,  which,  because  of  Querent  expoft- 
iires,  bloom  successively.  From  a  point  called  Hilome  Stfmwwv^ 


598    Rie,35,     NARA' TO  YAMADA-ISE         Kameuam 

or  '  Survey  of  a  Thousand  Trees  at  a  Glance/  the  vision 
sweeps  a  vast  extent  and  enjoys  a  floral  display  perhaps  un- 
equaJed.  Trees  to  adorn  palaces  gardens  and  parks  through- 
out the  Empire  are  usually  drawn  from  this  source,  while  far- 
ther down  the  valley  of  the  Yoahino  River  (one  of  the  longest 
in  the  country)  is  obtained  the  fire-garnet  sand,  or  pyrope 
(which  belongs  to  the  magnesia-alumina  variety  of  the  species), 
used  in  the  poUshing  of  rock-crystals.  The  region  is  moun- 
tainous, the  highest  peaks  averaging  6000  ft.  The  Emperor 
Go-Daigo  established  his  Court  here  in  1336  (after  his  expul- 
sion from  Ky5to)  and  died  2  yrs.  later.  The  brave  Yoshitsune 
and  his  faithful  Benkei  sought  refuge  here  in  1185  from  the 
unnatural  YorUomo,  and  the  scenery  roundabout  has  inspired 
Japanese  poets  for  centuries.  Chief  among  the  temples  is  the 
Zo-o-do  with  a  26-ft.  image  (ascribed  to  Gyogi-hosaJtsu)  of  Za-d 
Gongeru  A  specialty  of  the  town  is  a  starchy  sweet  called 
Kiizudamarij  with  which  cherry  blossoms  are  covered  and  sold 
in  pretty  boxes.  The  Yoshino^amiy  or  paper,  used  throughout 
the  country  in  the  lacquer  manufacture,  is  made  in  the  vicinity. 
The  lac  of  the  trees  grown  here  is  greatly  valued  in  the  prepa- 
ration of  lacquer-wares. 

There  are  a  number  of  other  attractive  places  in  the  vicin- 
ity of  Nara,  to  which  excursions  can  be  made.  For  data  re- 
ferring to  them  consult  the  hotel  manager.  Taukigase  is  ra- 
diant with  plum  blossoms  in  March,  and  there  is  excellent 
trout-fishing  in  the  Kizu  River  near  (12 J  M.)  Kasagi-yama. 

35.  From  Nara  to  Yamada  and  the  Shrines  of  Ise. 

Kansai  and  Sangu  Lines  of  the  Imperial  Government  Railways. 

79  M.  Several  trains  daily  in  about  5  hrs.;  fare,  Ist  cL,  ¥3.03;  2d  cl., 
¥1.82.)  Unless  one  boards  a  car  marked  Toba  (the  station  at  the  end  of  the 
line),  a  change  may  be  necessary  (in  same  station)  at  Kameyama.  When 
pilgrims  to  the  shrines  are  on  the  move  (usually  in  springtime),  the  2d.  cl. 
cars  are  apt  to  be  uncomfortably  crowded.  From  YanuUo  Province  the  train 
goes  through  the  lower  end  of  Yamashiro,  then  crosses  Iga  before  entering 
Ise  (Chinese,  Seishu)  —  whence  the  shrines  derive  their  name.  The  two 
first  provinces  belong  to  the  Five-Home  group;  the  others  to  the  15  provinces 
or  states  comprising  the  Eastern  Sea  Road.  Because  the  shrines  are  at  the 
town  of  Yamadat  in  the  province  of  Ise  (E'say),  the  place  is  often  referred 
to  as  Yamada-Ise.  Southbound  travelers  who  find  themselves  at  Nagoya 
can  reverse  Rte.  26,  visit  Yamada^  and  travel  thence  to  Nara.  There  is  a 
platform  restaurant  &t  Kameyama  and  warm  bent  6  is  offered  for  sale. 

From  iVara  the  train  runs  back  toward  Kyoto  to  4  M.  Kizu, 
then  branches  to  the  right  (E.)  and  enters  a  hilly  region  drained 
by  the  flanking  Kizu-gawa.  [If  one's  motor-car  is  not  too  heavy 
to  negotiate  the  rather  flimsy  bridges,  the  auto  road  seen  from 
the  train  will  afford  a  pleasant  highway  between  Nara  and 
Yamada.]  The  region  roundabout  is  carefully  cultivated,  and 
in  Nov.  it  flames  with  turning  maples.  8  M.  KamOf  in  a  hilly 
diatnct  through  which  winds  the  Kizu  River ^  is  a  shipping- 
point  for  the  tea  winch  gro^s  Va  tihe  nei^borhood,  Tne  ily. 


to  Nagoya.  NARA  TO  YAMADA-ISE     S5.  Rte.    699 

compasses  the  hills  on  terraces  cut  from  them  and  held  in  place 
by  huge  and  costly  stone  embankments.  12  M.  Kasagif  a  poor 
but  picturesque  town  on  the  banks  of  the  Shirumo-^way  sprawls 
up  the  flank  of  Kasagv-yamay  and  is  the  place  where  the  Em' 
peror  Go-Daigo  took  refuge  to  escape  Hojo  Takatoki  (in  1331). 
Soon  afterward  he  was  besieged  on  the  mt.,  made  prisoner,  and 
banished  to  Oki  Island.  —  Immense  rocks  fleck  the  mt.  side 
and  seem  ready  to  fall  upon  the  train  as  it  edges  gingerly  along 
below.  Many  bamboo  articles  are  made  from  this  arbores- 
cent grass,  which  grows  in  groves  on  the  slopes  hereabout.  As 
the  train  enters  a  wild  gorge,  great  rocks  are  descried  in  the 
bed  of  the  dashing  river,  to  which  the  steel  flumes  that  come 
down  the  hillsides  add  their  quota  of  spume.  The  line  follows 
the  sinuosities  of  the  stream,  then  crosses  it  and  runs  over  a 
steadily  ascending  grade  to  Okawara,  beyond  which  a  big  tunnel 
(1266  ft.  long),  then  a  smaller  one,  both  of  the  same  name,  are 
threaded  before  the  rly.  descends  through  the  Shimagawara 
Tunnel  to  the  nondescript  Shimagavoara  Station,  Fine  gray 
granite  is  quarried  hereabout,  and  a  yellow  clay  employ^  in 
the  manufacture  of  earthenware  is  shipped  hence  to  the  Kyoto 
potteries.  Tsukigasey  a  small  town  6  M.  to  the  S.  W.  in  YamcUo 
Province,  is  a  popular  resort  for  Nara  folks  who  come  hither 
in  March  to  see  the  display  of  flamboyant  plum  blossoms  on 
the  trees  which  flank  the  Kisu  River.  25  M.  Ueno.  30  M. 
Tsuge  Jct.y  in  Iga  Province.  A  branch  line  of  the  Kansai  Line 
runs  hence  (sev^al  trains  daily)  to  22  M.  Kusatsuy  a  station 
near  the  Lake  of  Omi,  on  the  Tokaido  (Rte.  26).  Between  Tsvge 
and  39  M.  Seki  the  rly.  ascends  over  a  gradient  of  1  in  40  to 
the  KabvJto  Tunnel  (3044  ft.  long  and  1062  ft.  above  the  sea), 
then  descends  through  two  more  tunnels  and  across  three 
bridges  to  43  M.  Kameyama  (273  ft.),  where  it  turns  and  runs 
toward  the  S.E.  along  the  W.  shore  of  Ise  Bay. 

From  Kameyama  to  Nagoya,  over  the  Kansai  Main  Line,  is  37  M.,  and 
the  several  daily  trains  compass  the  trip  in  about  2  hrs.  Fare,  Ist  cl.,  ¥1.55; 
2d  cl.,  93  sen.  The  first  part  is  over  a  broken  country  marked  by  dense  pine 
groves  and  tea  plantations.  Beyond  10  M.  Kawarada  the  country  flattens 
out  and  the  rly.  crosses  a  wide  prairie-like  region  drained  by  the  Uchibe  River. 
It  is'subject  to  overflows  in  spring,  and  the  numerous  transversal  dikes  are 
aimed  to  keep  the  water  where  it  belongs.  14  M.  Yokkaichi,  an  important 
port  on  Ise  Bay,  in  Ise  Province,  with  31,000  inhabs.,  is  known  locally  for  its 
manufactures  of  paper  and  for  the  Banko  faience  sold  at  Ise.  In  ancient 
times  it  was  a  well-known  point  on  the  Tokaido,  which  still  runs  through  it; 
at  present  its  many  factory  chimneys  cause  it  to  look  like  a  miniature  Osaka. 
For  some  distance  the  rly.  flanks  the  Tokaido,  which  is  still  bordered  by 
ancient  pine  trees.  The  bulky  mt.  range  at  the  left  is  the  dividing  line  be^ 
tween  the  provinces  of  Ise  and  Omi.  The  country  is  thickly  settled  and  in- 
tensively  cultivated ;  dogs  help  the  farmers  in  their  work,  and  immense  quaor 
tities  of  vegetables  are  produced  on  the  level,  rich  land.  23  M.  Kwoana, 
with  22,000  inhabs.  (Inn:  Funatsu-ya)  is  an  old  castle  town  which  during 
the  16th  cent. was  the  home  of  the  Ise  family.  Its  several  temples  are  of  no 
interest  to  the  casual  traveler.  Traversing  a  level  country  ana  then  sweep- 
ing broadly  to  the  right,  the  rly.  crosses  the  Horima-gawa,  then  the  wide 
Ebi-gawa,  spanned  by  a  16-arch  steel  bridge  3255  ft.  lon^.  The  country  b«r 
tween  this  point  and  Nagoya  is  flat  and  is  furrowed  by  8  TW«r«,taQielt  (c&Vta^^ 


they  oild  to  tbo  richaeBa  oi  their  londd  by  diipoaitinir  quanbitica  of  dit  tiu_ 
matoriidly  augDiQDt  the  pToduoCicm.  Muiy  of  the  vegetahLea  BaldiDtho 
A'lvi'ifli  msrkeU  hie  isleeJ  hereabout,  37  M.  !faiioi/a,  see  p.  37S. 

50  M.  Ishinden,  the  £rst  station  of  importvice  on  the  Saiigi 
(lit.,  'Piigrimiwe  to  the  Grand  Imperial  Shrine  in  lae')  Lint, 
is  known  for  a  big  temple  (2  min.  walk  from  the  Htatioo,  left) 
cidled  the  SenahH-Ji  (or  Takaia-no-Gob6),  the  principal  seat  <H 
the  Takaia  branch  of  the  Joilo-nhin  eect  of  Buddhists. 

B2  M.  Tbo  (Inn:  Chocho-kwan,  ¥2.50  to  ¥3),  capital  d 
Miye  R^fecture,  with  41,230  inhabe.,  was  formerly  e^led 
Anolsu  and  waa  the  residence  of  a  branch  of  the  Taira  family. 
The  two  templea  near  the  center  of  the  city,  the  K^Danttonii 
and  Ko-no-Amida,  though  of  considerable  importance  to  the 
natives  are  of  but  little  interest  to  foreigners.  Near  by,  on  the 
W.  shore  of  Ise  Bay,  stands  the  nondescript  town  of  Skindia, 
known  to  artistio  designers  of  many  oountrtea  for  its  uniqi» 
industry.  The  designs  and  patterns  for  many  of  the  bM 
woven  stuffs  {towels,  clothing,  etc.)  in  general  use  throughout 
Japan  originate  here  and  have  done  so  for  centuries.  The  iD- 
ilustry  ia  said  to  owe  its  origin  to  a  bonze  of  the  local  temple, 
who  about  a  thousand  yrs,  ago  cut  the  first  figures  from  thldi 
paper  and  ^ave  them  to  the  temple  devotees.  To  this  reptsi- 
torv  of  ancient  designs  come  oopyists  from  many  places  to  tW 
ana  to  buy,  —  The  train  passes  the  unimportant  towns  of 
Akiigi,  Takackaya,  Rokken,  and  Mtdnufdia,  the  birthplace  dJ 
MalooriNminaga,  a  famous  man  of  letters  (b.  1730;  d.  1801), 

79  M.  (36  from  Kmneyama  Jet.)  Yamada  (Yamada-lae,  or 
Uji-Yamada),  a  clean  and  handsome  town  (pop.  39,000)  near 
the  sea  in  Ise  Province,  is  celebrated  for  its  sacred  shrines. 
According  to  the  local  guidebook  the  occupation  of  the  peo- 
ple '  is  to  feed  peacefully  upon  tourists,'  upwards  of  700,000  of 
I  whom,  chiefly  Japanese,  come  hither  each  year.  Like  Nara, 
Ymnaaa  nestJes  coziiy  at  the  base  of  a  range  of  wooded  hills 
I  which  rise  behind  it,  prominent  among  them  the  lofty  Agatiia- 

.  Moat  fomgD  trsvelent  go  to  UiB  popular  (foreian  Wyle)  Oimiiai 
I  a  dor  nod  upward,  according  to  room},  oa  a  soinirandiiw  slojic 
("IWp-THil  Hill'J,wbep<!e  tbsie  sre  Ran  views.  EoKluh  ^lolus. 
3ni  the  atatioD,  IS  Hfn,  in  15  min.  ^  The  wide  Etrect  whleb  h»k 
riy.  BtatioD  to  tbe  entrsace  la  the  Qdca  Shrim  b  Banked  by  numn^ 

I  upward  ForlodiduBand2mealA),1>iit  they  cater  chiefly  to  pilgrimff. 
tbe  Dld-faaiuDaed  lannin  the  town  arenlmoat  smotherHT  in  heu 

ftTB  brought  by  pUgriom  from  different  porta  of  the  Empire,  And  ofied 

by  the  inakeapero  ai  toMiiaoniala  and  iidvertioenienta. 

Electric  tram-cars  run  at,  ttequmu,  Inwrvote  between  the  two  bis  ahiiBM 
LflrminuB  near  the  etatSonl   t'tawneB  Itaai  'il»  N  aiW".  Rtuvm.  bx  U»  ta  Ibe 


The  Shrines  of  Ise.  YAM  ADA  S5.  BotOe.    601 

spare  should  devote  more  to  them.  The  views  from  the  hilltops  behind  Toba 
are  superb,  and  the  walk  back  through  Futami  is  delightful.  By  boarding  a 
riy.  train  at  Yamada,  for  Toba,  climbing  the  hill  behind  it,  then  walking 
back  to  Futami  and  boarding  a  tram-car  there  for  NaikUt  one  can  get  a  com* 
prehensive  view  of  the  surrounding  country.  Atama-pama  may  be  ascended 
from  Naih&t  but  the  trip  should  be  undertaken  early  in  the  morning.  The 
Muaeum  and  the  old  Furuichi  quarter  lie  between  Naik&  and  the  hotel,  and 
mAyr  conveniently  be  inspectecf  on  the  way  back. 

Jinriki  —  fares  39  sen  an  hour;  to  Tn^  and  back  vift  Futami  and  the 
Naiku  Shrine,  with  2  men,  ¥3.20. 

The  Tamada  Shops  contain  but  littieof  real  worth.  The  chief  specialties 
are  pills,  chop-sticks  made  from  the  wood  of  demolished  shrines,  and  the 
rather  coarse  earthenware  called  Banko-yaki. 

The  Shrines  of  Ise,  or  Ise  Daijingu^he  *  Two  Great  Divine  Palaces '  of  the 
primitive  ShirUd  cult  (comp.  p.  ccziv) ;  archaic  and  greatly  venerated  struc- 
tures erected  on  the  site  of  originals  dating  from  the  5th  cent,  are  consecrated 
to  the  Sun-Goddess  Amaterasu  and  other  tutelar  saints,  and  while  not  as 
ancient  as  those  of  Kizuki,  in  Izumo  (p.  543),  in  point  of  sanctity  they  rank 
highest  of  all  the  Shintd  temples  in  Japan.  Here  the  ancient  ceremonials 
are  conducted  in  their  pristine  simplicity,  without  innovations  of  any  kind, 
and  here  also  what  is  claimed  to  be  the  pure  Shintd  style  of  architecture  can 
be  studied  to  the  best  advantage.  So  imwavering  is  the  belief  of  the  prole- 
tariat that  they  are  the  specially  chosen  terrestrial  abode  of  the  Kami  or 
gods  which  watch  over  the  Japanese,  that  a  horde  of  pilgrims,  devout  and 
otherwise,  foregather  here  during  each  year  and  worship  in  their  own  behalf, 
or  that  of  the  scores  of  hamlets  and  villa^,  individuals  and  associations, 
that  deputise  them  to  make  the  holy  pilgruaage  in  their  names.  To  count- 
less millions  of  the  Nipponese  the  sanctified  spot  is  what  Mecca  is  to  the 
Mahometans,  Jerusalem  to  the  Christians,  and  Guadalupe  to  the  Mezioans. 
According  to  an  accepted  authority  (Sir  Ernest  Satow),  no  artisan  in  TdkyO 
who  is  a  devotee  of  the  creed  'considers  it  possible  to  gain  a  livelihood  unless 
he  has  invoked  the  protection  of  Daijingu  Sama,  as  the  common  people  are 
accustomed  to  call  the  gods  of  Ise,  by  performing  the  Journey  thither  once 
at  least,  and  the  p^usants  are  even  more  devout  believers.  In  former  years 
it  was  a  common  thing  for  the  little  shop-boys  of  Yedo  to  abscond  for  a  while 
from  their  master's  houses  and  to  wander  along  the  Tdkaidd  as  far  as  /«e, 
subsisting  on  the  alms  which  they  b^sged  from  travelers;  and  having  ob- 
tained the  bundle  of  charms,  consisting  of  pieces  of  the  wood  of  which  the 
temi>le  is  built,  they  made  their  way  back  home  in  the  same  manner.  The  Ise 
pilgrims  are  distinguished  on  their  return  by  large  bundles  of  charms,  wrapped 
in  oiled  paper,  wmch  they  carry  suspended  from  their  necks  by  a  string.' 

Photographing  or  sketching,  and  nnoking,  are  forbidden  in  the  grounds, 
and  the  rehc-maniac  should  refrain  from  detaching  souvenirs  of  his  visit. 
So  sacred  are  the  structures  in  the  eves  of  tiie  Japanese  that  the  carpenters 
who  work  on  them  must  not  only  bathe  frequently,  but  are  required  also 
to  wear  spotless  white  clothes  and  to  discard  them  at  the  first  appearance 
of  any  stam.  If  a  workman  cuts  his  finger  and  permits  a  drop  of  the  blood  to 
fall  on  a  piece  of  wood,  this  is  instantly  r^ected.  The  wood  itself  is  specially 
selected  hinoki  and  cryptomeria  of  the  finest  grain,  cut  from  the  Imperial 
Forests  on  the  Kiso  Mts.,  on  the  border-Une  between  Mino  and  Shinano 
Provinces.  Ceremonies  almost  as  elaborate  as  when  a  new  shrine  is  built 
mark  the  felling  of  the  trees  —  proper^  to  consecrate  them.  Branches  of 
the  Ise  Shrines  are  located  at  various  points  in  the  Empire,  and  all  the  island 
roads  are  supposed  to  center  at  Ise. 

The  Gekii,  or  Outer  Shrine  (or  Palace),  dedicated  to  Toyo^ke  Daijin  (or 
Toyo^uke-bime  no  kami),  Godaess  of  Cereab  and  daughter  of  Itanaqi  and 
Izanami,  is  said  to  have  been  founded  in  a.d.  478.  It  stands  in  the  midst  of 
a  magnificent  grove  of  aged  and  lofty  cryptomerias  near  the  rly.  station,  at 
the  S.  side  of  the  town,  about  4  M.  from  its  companion,  the  Naik&,  or  Inner 
Shrine,  which  is  similarly  situated  near  Uji  village,  at  the  £.   A  splendid, 
boulevieud,  the  Miyuki-dorit  oonstructcxL  as  its  name  impUea,  specaaS^i^  V^ 
the  use  of  the  Imperial  Family,  lays  its  length  through  ine  oon'Vaxvx&o'OA  Nn\* 
lagea  of  MioAen-macht,  Furuichi,  Ushidani,  and  Vii,  andianoNv  \u«A\siV  «SL. 
Eleetnc  tram-ears  (10  sen,  in  25  rain.)  and  automobUea  (12  aen)  pVy  tuSBtowar 
oualy  between  the  two  Bbrinee,  which  are  8o  much  alike  Ktobi\Aot>ax^^  ^^«** 


I 


602    Route  3S.  YAMADA  The  SAHflU 

weinEoneiaBlmoateqiiiviilentloAmneboth.  Tho  ATnktll  ii  the  lajsn  Ud 
buLier  oF  the  tiro,  and  has  the  moot  pleuinB  enviromnflDt. 

Ths  pretty  lottu^ioad  Juit  withjn  the  eatrsnce  of  the  p&rk  eiialuiBiBlite 
Gek&  in  DiUlfld  Maoaiama-ike,  from  Ita  fmicded  rbseoiblfiiLDe  to  one  of  UUB 
uwient  omamenti.  An  unhad  wood  bridge  with  S  metal  gibotha  nm 
■ooBsa  to  the  inolosiuQ.  where  the  fint  objecca  to  attmot  the  aUeatian  m 
bumeroua  war-trQphleA  in  the  form  of  oannaa  and  what-not  oaptund  in  tte 
Chineoe  and  RusaiBO  wars,  Tbeaaiue  number  oltorii,  gatewayi.fendei,*iid 
ediBeee  to  be  lound  in  the  SaiM  SAWnc  are  grouped  bdeids  tt»  nipcrb 
avenue  □(  fpant  trevs  which  [eada  up  to  them,  Theaploadido]dauai>hortriN 


called  Ki 


the  right  of  thii.  upheld  by  many  aupportja^  bsami,  ■»! 

Kiuomivi  no  JtiuunoH,  is  Baid  to  have  been  planted  by  ^le  vvlaot 

-.  Taira  Kiynmiiri,  in  the  12th  dent.   PaMina  beneaeh  t>         '  <    -  " 

'      ■ '  ip8  oTwhllH 


no  tnrii.  whieb  baa  fneh  aakaki  twLgs  and  wiepe  of  noite  paper  nailed  lo  tiW 
upriRbta,  one  oontinuea  tioneath  the  lofty  treea  to  a  feneed  InoloBitrv  (rilbl) 
-  -  '  ■-'--  tho  building  where  royally  ei = ' ■— ' '— 

fie.  The  Katnira-deni'^-  -  " "" 

rii,  Lfl  the  Jvj/osha,  wl 

._ie  tight  ia  the  Ooji-dm 

held.  The  little  pond  at  the  left ----,, _.,  - 

The  GehA  iUelF.  Monda  wit^  the  iiompound  at  Che  left  and  in  unappniaDb- 
aMe  by  the  oaaual  visitor.  The  open  apaoe  awaits  the  neirt  new  temple  In  be 
encted.  Many  of  the  ^at  tF^es  bave  soctlooB  of  their  truuks  wrapped  la 
matting  or  are  fenced  in  to  preveot  the  bark  being  stripped  from  tbem  by 
■ealous  devoteea.  The  email  inelomire  at  the  left,  piled  ffith  pebbles  awl 
fenced  with  stalies  tied  with  ahimeaawa,  or  straw  ropes  fleolcod  with  wisps 


the  adiftcent  hill  to  the  sbrinea  there,   A  better  and  clcaor  view  of  Chi 

shrine  eon  be  had  from  the  rear.    Softttered  amid  '    '  "  

and  eryptomeria  trees  in  the  park  are  maples,  cht 


The  RalkQ  Shrine  aCands  withia  a  beautifitl  lQ4-aciv  pork:  at  the  fool  rf 
the  tall  Annu-vitma,  and  is  dedicated  lo  all  the  divine  anoeatora  at  te 
Mikado,    A  handsome,  pictunaque,  ami  so-oalled  eaersd  Ijridge  y'ify' 

fnwH  tnthpinplnfliipR.  nnrl  in  flniLkprl  at  both  Ouds  by  huEe  WOOd  Urn.    InAs 

halding  grim  reliea  of  Japan's  litan^ 


r 


outer  park  are  several  ahut-in  spaoea  haldlng  gnm  reliea  of  Japan's  Utan^ 
etrugnles  with  the  Musooviles  and  Chiorao,  The  tall  gray  shaft  in  the  tpm 


laaka  Arsenal)  whieh  played 


a  ^ft  from  Admirai  Toso.   Cona[neiiDua  Bmong  the  i 


IcireBttBble  Battle  of  the  Japan  Sea; 
inAdmi-'  "-        -  -     ■-       

the  jmtyeled  and  bmutJfillly  shaded  aToinit 


- —  — ^ ,- jtoutly  defended  fortrsB, 

Fridge  with  ID  ^bosAu,  one  entera  '^ .  ,    -  , ,     . 


hard  by  was  a  pft  from  HiJmtroJ  Toga. 
the  right  ii  a  Ng  Krupp  gun  captured 
and  ahuga  black  one  (made  at  the  Osaka 

t  and  capture 

with  ID  trSmth 

d  of  the  ATavc  .  .  _ ---    - 

overhung  with  lofty  trees  —  the  home  of  many  oawins  rooks 

f»  (or  Brstl  larii,  the  silent  symbol  of  all  Shvtti  ahrinaa.    At  the  n^l 

Sliaien  the  limpid  waters  of  the  J  tutu  ffVeer,  where  pilgrims  go  topunfj 
lemnelvcs  before  penetrating  farther  into  the  aacred  preoinct,  TheedifiM 

The  adlocent  structure  with  the  lovely  brown,  time-stained  roof,  is  when 
bonses  are  to  Buddhism),  sell  wntppod  bits  of  the  wood  used  Id  the  cos- 
gods:  paper  obarme.  and  other  ofTeringi,  Following  it  is  Uie  Katyr^i*, 
where  the  aacjed  ddUcea  are  perf  orfiied,  a  graoef  ul  atruoture  with  many  bivi 
enrichments  incised  with  the  Imperial  li^-petal  chryeanthemum ,  aqd  other 
eymbula.  Spleodidb-  atnught  and  lojty  cryploinerias  canturiea  old  liss  hr 
Itieaideof  the  avenue  here,  aod  but  (or  the  protectJog  teaeee,  the  coounon 
folk,  who  regard  them  ae  qiissi-^ViM).  ■mnii  aWi*  «S  ttss  bmk.  (rom  Ibsis 


fuaevm,  YAMADA  36.  RaiOe.    603 

Itagake)  of  cryiytomeria  measuringlOd  ft.  long  in  front,  369  at  the  ride,  and 
202  at  the  rear;  the  innermost  one  (Midzuoaki),  149  ft.  in  front,  160  back, 
and  144  at  each  side.  The  principal  deity  worshiped  in  the  veiled  sacrosanct 
interior  is  AnuUerasu,  who  is  believed  to  be  represented  by  the  sacred  mirror 
bequeathed  to  the  progenitors  of  the  race.  It  is  kept  in  a  special  casket  of 
flawless  hinoki,  wrapped  in  silk,  and  never  shown.  As  all  save  the  priests 
and  notables  are  excluded  from  the  sacred  compound,  travelers  must  view 
the  buildings  from  without.  These  are  constructed  of  white  hinoki,  roofed 
over  with  hinoki  bark,  and  are  supposed  to  represent  the  purest  style  of 
Shintd  architecture  —  notwithstanding  the  primitive  structures  admitted 
of  no  ornamentation.  The  glittering  brass  enrichments  incised  with  crests 
and  mystic  symbols  replace  the  elaborate  wood  carvings  of  Buddhist  fanes. 
White  silken  curtains  that  sway  in  the  breeze,  and  new  branches  of  Cleyera 
japoniea  attached  to  the  posts  and  doors  complete  the  outer  adornments. 
The  Shoden,  or  shrine  of  the  gods,  contains  the  usual  Shintd  equipment.  In 
the  Hdden,  or  treasury,  are  preserved  silken  stuffs,  saddlery  for  the  sacred 
horses,  and  what-not.  The  numerous  barnyard  fowls  about  the  premises 
are  gifts  of  devotees,  and  they  symbolize  the  supposed  origin  of  the  torii. 
Custom  requires  that  all  the  buildings  be  razed  every  20  yrs.  and  new  ones 
erected  on  the  adjacent  plots  reserved  for  the  purpose.  Elaborate  and  costly 
ceremonies  attend  the  dedication  of  new  shrines.  The  present  buildings  date 
from  1909.  The  Jewel  Pond  in  the  park  at  the  left  is  called  Magatama-ike. 

Most  of  the  things  for  sale  in  the  Uji  shops  have  a  bearing  on  the  shrines 
or  the  Shintd  cult.  The  microscopic  rice-grains  carved  to  imitate  one  of  the 
7  Gods  of  Good  Luck  are  curious.  More  senrible  remembrances  are  the  bits 
Df  gray,  brown,  and  green  Banko-ware,  with  raised  enamel  decorations  (a 
;>roduct  of  Ise  Province). 

About  midway  of  the  fine  boulevard  which  stretches  from  the  bridge  at 
Uji  to  the  Geku  Shrine,  on  a  hill  commanding  a  broad  prospect,  is  the  mu- 
jeum  described  below.  Automobile  in  10  min.,  8  sen.  The  walk  is  attractive 
ind  takes  but  little  longer. 

The  ChokQ-kwan,  or  Museum  of  Ancient  Things  (open  daily  from  9  to 
[j  admission,  6  sen,  which  also  includes  the  entrance  fee  to  the  Agricultural 
iiall;  English  spoken)  is  housed  in  a  handsome  new  structure  built  specially 
or  it  in  1909  at  a  cost  of  200,000  yen.  The  exhibits,  though  differing  but  little 
rom  those  of  other  high-class  museums,  are  of  conriderable  interest.  A  num- 
>er  of  the  paintings  are  duplicates  of  originals  in  the  Kyoto,  Tdkyd,  and 
*fara  Museums;  as  are  also  some  of  the  coins  in  the  extensive  collection. 
The  life-size  wax  figures  of  ancient  men  and  women  clad  in  the  strikingly 
ich  and  voluminous  costiimes  of  the  Nara,  FujitDora,  Aahikaga,  and  Toku- 
'OVTO  periods,  are  startlingly  lifelike;  the  beautiful  longhair  of  certain  of  the 
eomen  is  characteristic  of  the  remote  Fujivoara  epoch.  Noteworthy  among 
he  many  curious  old  weapons  are  the  Moqari  employed  anciently  by  the 
>olice  to  hook  into  the  clothing  of  fleeing  criminals.  The  daimy6  procession 
elates  to  the  Tokuqawa  regime  and  contains  scores  of  elaborately  dressed 
igurines  fashioned  with  exquisite  care  and  wonderful  fidelity  to  details. 
7he  two  old  Portuguese  maps  are  very  odd,  and  are  thought  to  have  been 
wrought  hither  by  the  first  Portingalls  (maybe  Mendea  Pinto  himself)  who 
ame  jauntily  a-trading  in  1542.  The  several  specimens  of  prehistoric  pot- 
ery  from  Kyushu  are  interesting  solely  for  their  decorations,  which  are  the 
•rototypes  of  those  employed  by  present-day  artists.  Equally  significant 
re  the  several  originally  gilded  bronze  objects  of  native  manufacture,  but 
isplaying  unmistakable  Grecian  influence.  The  vermiculated  camphor- 
rood  dragon  which  formed  the  figure  head  of  the  Nihon  Maru,  built  to  con- 
ey the  fighting  Hideyoahi  to  Korea  in  1692,  is  a  genuine  curio,  and  for  cen- 
uries  was  preserved  as  an  heirloom  in  the  Toba  Castle,  by  the  descendants 
f  Admiral /fwAi  Yoahitaka  (who  built  the  Taha  Castle:  was  commander  of 
lideyoahi'a  fleet;  governor  of  Shima  Province,  and  was  killed,  in  16(K),  when 
e  sided  against  leyasu).  The  old  palanquin  near  by  belonged  to  one  of  the 
fficers  of  the  lae  Shrines  in  the  17th  cent.  The  numerous  relics  of  the  Stone 
ige  in  Japan  are  not  devoid  of  interest  to  antiquarians.  —  In  the  museum 
ard  are  several  omnipresent  relics  of  the  Russian  and  Chinese  wars  —  cai^ 
lon,  battered  funnels  from  war-ships,  submarine  mines,  torpedoes,  and 
/hat-not.  In  a  smaller  edifice  hard  by  are  collections  of  relics  from  x  cfo« 
be  Loochos  Islands,  Formosa,  and  Korea,  —  Across  the  Toad  \A 


604    R(mie  35,  7AMADA  lae  Ondo. 

The  No^o-kwan,  or  Agricultural  Hall,  with  a  numb^  of  exhibits  wdl 
worth  looking  at.  With  the  infinite  patience  and  care  which  are  characteris- 
tics of  the  Japanese,  there  have  been  assembled  here,  and  arranged  in  highly 
interesting  groups,  many  of  the  products  for  which  Japan  is  specially  noted. 
The  processes  of  growing  and  preparing  tea,  seaweed,  rice,  camphor,  pmper- 
mint,  silk,  and  a  host  of  native  products,  are  portrayed  in  wax  and  the  uke, 
the  eolk  process  being  extremely  interesting,  as  every  stage  from  the  silk 
cocoon  to  the  woven  habiUae  is  mgeniously  demonstrated.  There  is  a  lai|^ 
collection  of  marine  and  land  products,  fish-traps,  models  of  boats,  a  life-his- 
tory of  the  oyster,  with  specimens  of  this  bivalve  in  various  stages  of  devel- 
opment, cases  of  stuffed  birds,  butterflies,  and  what-not.  The  department  for 
the  instruction  of  farmers  and  fishermen  is  the  best  equipped  in  Japan  and 
corresponds  in  a  smaller  way  to  the  Bureau  of  Agriculture  at  Washington, 
D.C.  Housewives  will  be  interested  in  the  process  of  converting  seaweed 
into  gelatine,  while  Western  farmers  may  learn  here  of  a  score  of  uses  to 
which  the  straw,  regarded  in  the  United  States  as  of  little  economical  im« 
portance,  can  be  put.  Not  the  least  interesting  in  this  regard  are  the  beau- 
tifully soft  mats  (tcUami)  which  serve  in  Japan  as  carpets  and  are  made  of 
the  reed  known  as  Juncus  communis  (Jap.  J).  Included  in  the  exhibit^ 
natine  woods  are  many  from  the  fertile  and  productive  forests  of  Formosa. 

The  traveler  with  time  to  spare  should,  on  leaving  the  museum  grounds, 
stroll  back  toward  Yamada  through  the  older  settlement  of  FurutcAi,  there 
to  note  the  peculiar  style  of  architecture  of  the  more  ancient  of  the  houses, 
many  of  which  have  gables,  and  stand  with  the  wrong  end  to  the  street. 
Under  certain  of  the  oiaarre  tiled  roofs  with  a  pronounced  overhang  are 
quaint  windows  opening  on  to  tiny  balconies  that  suggest  Venice  rather 
than  Japan.  The  principal  street,  formerly  the  chief  thoroughfare  between 
the  two  great  lae  Shrines,  lacks  the  odor  of  sanctity  which  these  hallowed 
structures  might  be  supposed  to  impart,  but  it  makes  up  for  this,  in  a  mea- 
sure, by  its  picturesqueness.  Not  a  few  of  the  more  sumptuous  houses 
which  face  it  are  of  questionable  repute,  and  are  known  far  and  wide  fw  a 
nationally  (in)  famous  dance,  the  Ise  Ondo»  which  has  obtained  here  since 
time  immemorial.  With  that  sinjgular  inconsistency  which  sometimes  per- 
mits certain  Japanese  to  mix  spiritual  with  material  affairs,  pilgrims  deput- 
ised by  distant  communities  to  represent  them  at  the  Ise  Shrines  have  been 
known  first  to  purify  themselves  at  those  superlatively  sacred  institutions, 
then  repair  hither  to  engage  in  a  little  debauchery  as  an  indulgence  for  too 
much  praying.  Those  uninitiated  foreigners  who  with  one  or  more  friends 
have  chipped  in  ¥3.50  in  order  to  witness  an  Ise  Ondo  arranged  for  their  spe- 
cial entertainment,  and  who  perchance  have  been  pussled  at  the  decorum 
and  brevity  of  the  exhibition  (which  consists  of  not  ungraceful  posturing 
set  to  music,  and  which  lasts  for  about  5  min.),  may  be  interested  in  the  fol- 
lowing: The  room  is  providc^d  with  a  miniature  sta^e  with  flanking  wings  on 
the  order  of  the  hanamichi,  or  '  flowery  path,'  lefiding  to  the  stage  of  ordin- 
ary native  theaters.  A  niimber  of  women  samisen-players  seat  themselves 
on  mats  below  these  passageways,  and  the  several  spectators  squat  on  the 
floor  directly  facing  the  proscenium.  At  a  given  moment  the  floor  of  Uus 
rises  to  the  stage  level  and  brings  up  with  it  perhaps  a  dosen  gayly  but 
modestly  clad  women,  with  statuesque  figures,  crimson  lips,  flashing  eyes, 
and  bepowdered,  smiling  faces.  They  present  a  curious  spectacle  as  they 
blink  at  the  sudden  light  and  sweep  the  room  with  inquiring  glances.  Their 
costumes  are  more  significant  to  Japanese  than  to  the  unknowing  stranger. 
The  music  strikes  up,  each  woman  executes  a  brief  pas  seul,  the  floor  sinks 
with  its  glittering,  musky  burden,  and  closes  with  a  snap,  and  the  exhibition 
is  over  —  for  the  foreigner!  But  the  industrious  Japanese,  if  there  be  any 
present,  has  been  more  interested  in  the  women  than  in  the  celebrated 
dance,  and  he  now  proceeds  forthwith  to  the  proprietor  of  the  establishment, 
demands  the  courtezan  whose  salient  characteristics  he  has  made  a  mental 
note  of,  and  receives  her  to  work  his  will  with  her  I 

At  similar  questionable  places  in  this  district  other  trashy  dances  are  per* 

formed  before  those  willing  to  pay  for  them.  One  not  without  a  certain  mv- 

olous  interest  is  the  sprightly  O  Sitgi  O  Tama,  conducted  by  aged  girla  who 

are  such  artful  dodgers  that  they  arc  rarely  if  ever  struck  by  the  coins  which 

the  men  among  the  spectators  fim^  at  their  faces.  One  of  the  shops  on  the 

main  street  is  noted  among  JapanoA^  «3  ^^  YkAaA.^V'sastAcs  of  a  nationally 


known  medicine  called  Mankin-4an  —  small  anodyne  pills  made  on  Awama- 
yama  and  sold  as  cure-alls  to  ailing  pilgrims. 

Excursions  from  Tamada. 

To  Toba  and  Fntami.  Trains  leave  the  Yamada  Station  at  frequent  inter- 
vals, cross  the  wide  estuary  of  the  Jauzu  River  and  parallel  the  tramway  to 
4  M.  (fare,  18  »en)  FtUctini-ntMtra.  Here,  if  the  traveler  so  wishes,  he  may 
(in  spring  or  summeiO  board  a  small  steamer  which  plies  hence  to  Toba  and 
crosses  an  island-studded  sea  similar  to  that  about  Maiatishima.  The  shel- 
tered bay,  seen  from  the  left  of  the  train,  is  charmingly  tranquil,  and  the 
sinuous  coast  is  one  of  great  natural  beauty.  The  train  soon  crosses  a  long 
bridge  over  an  arm  of  the  bay  that  makes  in  between  pine-clad  promontories 
and  comes  to  8  M.  (fare,  35  sen)  Toba  (in  Shima  Province),  at  the  foot  of  a 
high  hill  surmounted  by  a  steel  lighthouse.  Behind  it,  a  public  garden  called 
Koraku-en  spreads  over  the  summits  of  several  hills,  whence  magnificent 
views  are  had  of  land  and  sea.  Proceeding;  past  the  boat-landing  (for  the 
Pearl  Fisheries  mentioned  hereinafter)  to  midway  of  the  village,  one  aescries 
a  sigsag  path  leading  up  the  hill  at  the  right.  The  small  island  at  the  left, 
now  given  over  to  a  little  shipyard,  was  once  the  garden  surroimding  the 
castle  of  a  daimyo.  From  the  summit  of  Fujino-dai,  which  we  now  cumb, 
one  gets  a  far-reaching  view,  but  a  more  extensive  and  satisfying  one  is  had 
from  the  higher  crest  of 

HiTORi-TAMA,  or  Weather-Hill,  surmounted  by  a  picturesque  tea-hoiise 
ftnd  belted  with  fantastic  pine  trees.  The  panorama  which  spreads  before 
one  here  easily  takes  rank  amon^  the  finest  in  the  Empire,  as  it  is  marked  by 
ravishing  beauty  and  a  penetrating  charm.  Far  below,  stretching  to  indefin- 
ite pine-clad  shores  or  merging  into  the  ghostly  mist  which  enshrouds  them, 
lie  a  thousand  square  miles  of  placid.  Junk-flecked,  island-dotted  sea  as  ten- 
derly blue  as  the  wonderful  sky  arching  like  an  inverted  porcelain  bowl 
above  it.  Far  to  the  N.E.,  in  the  distant  province  of  Kai,  with  a  portion  of 
its  bulk  hidden  by  the  sky-line,  the  lordly  Fuji  rises  in  faultless  grandeur,  — 
p  :dorable,  dreamy  shape,  glistening  with  snow  and  blending  into  the  haze 
^me  colossal  pearl,  or  the  embodied  spirit  of  the  ooimtless  thousands 

^xese  which  lie  yet  undisturbed  in  their  nacreous  beds  beneath  the  sea 
off  Sugeshima  Island.  In  the  foreground  are  the  mts.  of  Otoari  and  MinOt 
while  still  nearer,  at  the  left,  stands  the  lofty  Aaama-yama,  namesake  of, 
but  no  kin  to,  the  restless  giant  of  the  Karuizavxi  Plain.  The  W.  shore  of 
Ise  Bay  stretches  away  at  the  left,  and  with  a  single  sweep  of  the  vision  one 
may  count  a  hundred  flashing  sails,  of  junk  and  fishing-craft,  bending  before, 
or  beating  against,  the  wind,  and  forming  a  picture  which  one  may  see  in 
no  waters  of  the  world  save  those  of  Nippon.  Because  of  its  proximity  to  the 
sea,  the  vista  here  is  finer  and  sharper  than  that  from  the  summit  of  Aaama, 
despite  the  fact  that  from  that  vantage-point  one  can  see  more  and  farther. 

Following  the  shaded  woods-road  leading  down  at  the  rear  of  Hiyorx- 
yama,  and  passing  the  small  Shinto  shrine  tucked  away  in  a  ferny  dell,  we 
proceed  through  Toba  town  (tri- weekly  steamers  to  Qamagori,  on  the  T6- 
kaido;  3  hrs. ;  ¥2)  and  continue  (right)  along  the  excellent  road  which  winds 
between  verdure-covered  hills.  The  cherry  blooms  in  spring  and  the  turning 
maple  leaves  in  autumn  attract  many  pedestrians  hither,  among  them 
scores  of  women  who  with  skirts  tucked  under  their  girdles  stroll  quietly 
along  and  drink  in  the  tranquil  beauty  of  the  scene.  The  highway  soon 
emerges  on  a  level  stretch  and  affords  fascinating  glimpses  of  the  sea  where 
it  swishes  in  and  out  between  woodsy  promontories.  Many,  varieties  of 
flowers  and  ferns  grow  hereabout,  and  where  the  fine  pines  spring  up  in  dense 
groves  a  balsamic  fragrance  broods  above  the  countryside.  A  leisurely 
tramp  of  li  hrs.  brings  one  to  the  outskirts  of  Yemura  village,  where' a  long 
foot-bridge  spans  an  arm  of  the  sea.  Continuing  over  the  crest  of  the  hill, 
along  a  shad^  road,  one  comes  in  20  min.  to  the  wide  ocean  and  a  local  ouxi- 
osity  (as  well  as  a  favorite  theme  with  poets)  in  the  form  of  twin  rocks 
(c^led  Myoto^wa,  or  'Wife  and  Husband  Rock')  near  the  shore.  A  straw 
rope  (shimenawa)  18  ft.  long,  of  the  kind  hung  before  Shint6  shrinea,  is 
looped  over  the  stones  (one  of  which  is  12,  the  other  30,  ft.  high,  and  both 
of  which  are  often  pictured  in  the  native  art),  and  because  the  sentiment 
pleases  the  Japanese,  and  the  sunset  effect  is  particularly  fine,  many  come 


«»».   Tiw  iDisna  aea  tferriee  (frequeat  saiHnga  to  «m'«Ii\c&  paEM|'«»«ni 


606    RoiOe  36.       KYOTO  TO  OSAKA 

hither  to  pray  in  the  little  Sominthozai  no  yashiro  oa  a  ledge  of  rookattbe 
shore.  The  broad  shingly  beach  of  FiUami  begins  just  beyond  here,  and 
pedestrians  will  find  it  worth  while  to  leave  the  highroad  and  follow  the  sea 
to  the  town.  The  beach  is  deservedly  popular  with  Yamada  folks,  and  thwe 
is  good  fishing.  The  conspicuous  stone  slab  overlooking  the  water  com- 
memorates a  visit  of  the  present  Emperor  when  he  was  Crown  Prince.  The 
clean  little  shops  which  flank  the  shore  sell  awabi  shells  and  other  marine 
products,  along  with  a  host  of  tinselly  kickshaws  attractive  to  country  peo- 
ple. The  breezy  little  Taiyo-kwan  Inn  makes  a  specialty  of  buckwheat 
macaroni  (soba).  The  tram-cars  which  leave  from  the  upper  end  ci  the 
village  go  to  (25  min.,  15  sen)  Uji  village  and  stop  near  the  NaikA  S?irine. 

Asama-yama  (1700  ft.)  is  a  popular  resort  with  the  townspeople,  since 
from  the  tea-house  and  the  temple  near  the  summit  (much  cooler  tnan  at 
Yamada)  magnificent  views  are  obtainable  over  land  and  sea.  The  cUmb 
to  the  top  (about  5  M.  from  the  entrance  to  the  Naiku  Shrine)  presents  no 
difficulties.  Coolie  to  act  as  guide  and  carry  the  lunch-basket,  ¥2. 

The  Mikimoto  Pearl  Fisheries  of  Shimei-ura  (referred  to  in  detail  at  p. 
oxix),  may  be  reached  (about  16  M.  in  2i  hrs.)  by  sailboat  from  Toba,  but 
unk^s  the  day  is  fine  and  the  sea  fairly  smooth  the  trip  had  better  be  post- 
poned.  The  prices  demanded  by  the  boatmen  (who  accost  all  strangers  pass- 
ing the  boat-landing)  are  flexible,  and  a  bai^ain  should  be  struck  before  war 
barking;  ¥5  for  one  person,  for  the  round  trip  (in  about  6  hrs.)  is  amjde, 
and  50  sen  for  each  additional  person  in  a  small  party  is  enough.  —  The 
WoMBN  Divers  iama)  of  Toba  can  be  seen  at  work  m  the  summer  in  the  sea 
off  Sugeahima,  near  Sakate,  visible  from  Toba  and  about  one  hour's  ride  in 
a  sailboat.  Several  score  women  are  employed  here  to  dive  for  shell-fii^  and 
other  marine  products,  chiefly  sea-ears  (atocibi)  and  agar-agar,  a  seaweed  of 
which  a  gelatinous  substance  called  kanten  is  made  (and  exported).  Their 
costumes  are  scantier  even  than  those  of  ballet-dancers;  the  saline  water 
soon  turns  their  hair  a  repulsive  reddish-brown  (like  that  of  the  Somali  boys 
who  dive  at  Aden)  and  their  skins  coarse  and  raspy.  Like  the  Burmese 
women,  they  work  while  their  men-folks  loaf.  They  balk  at  cold  water,  and 
prefer  not  to  work  in  winter,  but  the  traveler  intent  upon  seeing  the  opera- 
tion can  arrange  (in  Toba)  for  it  at  a  cost  of  about  five  yen. 

36.  From  (Yokohama,  Nagoya)  Kyoto  to  Osaka  and  Kobe. 

Yokohama-Kobe  Rte.  (24-26),  continued  from  p.  400.  South- 
westward  from  Kyoto  the  rly.  crosses  the  fertile  Yamashiro 
PlaiUf  with  fine  mts.  at  the  right,  and  bluer,  more  distant 
ones,  at  the  left.  The  Toji  Pagoda  is  soon  passed  at  the  left. 
At  the  right  of  the  far  end  of  the  (1196  ft.)  Katsura  Rim 
bridge  stands  the  Katsura  Summer  Palacey  hidden  by  trees. 
The  thick  groves  of  the  lissome  Bamhusa  which  grows  here  in 
such  wanton  profusion  would  furnish  a  fishing-pole  for  nearly 
every  piscatorially  inclined  youngster  in  the  Midakb's  Empire. 
Plodding  oxen  aid  the  simple  husbandmen  in  their  lowly  tasks 
in  the  paddy-fields,  and  sometimes  have  gaudy  scarves  wound 
round  the  base  of  their  horns,  or  are  sheltered  from  the  search- 
ing rays  of  the  sun  by  swaying  canopies  that  cover  them  from 
head  to  tail.  Conspicuous  objects  in  the  fields  are  the  crude 
irrigating  devices  —  species  of  breast-wheels  (perchance  of 
Persian  origin)  with  radial  steps  in  Ueu  of  buckets,  up  which 
men  and  women  climb  and  fill  the  sluices  with  water  raised  by 
their  dead  weight.  The  omnipresent  Tokaido  winds  like  a 
white  ribbon  across  the  ©:een  fields,  whfch  seem  never  without 
^lieir  laborers.  Beyond  %\^  M. .  Y  amotaki  ^^'ccnre  or  more  smok- 


Arrival.  OSAKA  S6,  Rouie.    607 

ing  factory  chimneys  .start  up  at  the  left  to  advertise  the  in- 
dustries of  hustling  Osaka.  The  progress  developed  in  this 
moilful  manufacturing  center  seems  to  have  communicated 
itself,  like  an  insidious  poison,  to  the  people  roundabout,  for 
occasionally  one  sees  a  greedy  fisherman  on  the  bank  of  a 
stream  fishing  with  six  or  more  poles  at  a  time! — The  AkiUa- 
and  the  Yodo-gawa  are  crossed  between  Takatsuki  and  Ibarakij 
beyond  which,  at  333  M.  Suita,  is  the  immense  brewery  of  the 
Dai  Nippon  Brewery  Co.  The  rly.  now  curves  to  the  left, 
crosses  the  Kami- Kanzaki-gawa,  then  the  Kami-Yodo^awa^ 
and  enters  the  Umeda  Station  (restaurant  upstairs)  of  338  M. 
Osaka  (see  below) .  For  a  continuation  of  the  journey  see  p.  618. 

Arrival.  The  4  principal  rly.  stations  are:  Umeda,  in  the  N.  quarter  (PI. 
D,  2),  where  north-  and  south-bound  trains  of  the  Tokaidd  Rly.  arrive  and 
depart;  Minatomtichi,  in  the  8.  Central  quarter  (PI.  D,  3),  starting-point 
for  Tennoji,  Oji,  Kdyaguchi  (Koya-san),  Wakayama,  Nara,  Yamada,  and 
Nagoya; Nctmba  Station,  hard  by  the  Minatomachi; Nan-kai  Rly.  Co.' a  trains 
to  Sumiyoahi,  Sakai,  and  Wakayama;  and  the  Shio-baahi,  W.  of  the  last- 
named  (PI.  D,  3) ;  also  for  Koya-san.  Foreign  visitors  are  usually  concerned 
only  with  the  Umeda  Station.  So  many  disapprove  of  the  hotel  accommo- 
dations at  Osaka  that  visitors  to  the  city  make  it  usually  the  objective 
point  of  an  all-day  excursion  up  from  Kobe  (20  M.,  frequent  trains  and 
electric  tram-cars  in  about  1  hr.)  or  down  from  (27  M.)  Kyoto  (with  similar 
transportation  facilities).  Osaka  does  not  enjoy  a  reputation  for  healthful- 
ness,  and  prudent  travelers  will  beware  of  the  drinking-water  unless  it  is 
boiled.  Tansan  from  the  near-by  Takaradzuka  Spring  should  be  demanded 
rather  than  drink  the  stuff  bottled  locally,  as  it  is  apt  to  be  river- water 
charged  with  additional  microbio  matter.  The  Asahi  beer  brewed  by  the 
Dai  Nippon  Brewery  Co.  is  well  spoken  of. 

Hotels  and  Inns  ^comp.  p.  xxiz).  Osaka  Hotel,  on  Naka-no-shima  Island 
(PI.  D,  2),  overlooking  the  river;  English  spoken;  rates  from  ¥5  a  day  and 
upward;  leaves  much  to  be  desired.  The  inn  next  door  (native  food)  is  the 
Ginsui-ro,  rates  from  ¥3.50  and  upward.  The  Hana-ya  Inn  (same  rates) 
is  between  the  Nippon  Ginko  and  the  (Central  Post-Office. 

Jinrikis  (p.  Ixxxviii);  35  sen  for  the  Ist  hr.;  25  the  2d;  and  25  for  each 
succeeding  hr.  From  the  Umeda  Station  to  the  castle  and  return,  with  §  hr. 
wait,  40  sen;  to  any  of  the  hotels  on  Naka-no-shima,  15  sen;  by  the  day, 
¥1.50;  i  day,  80  sen;  a  jinriki  full  of  luggage  at  the  same  prices.  Trunks 
from  the  station  to  the  hotel,  25  sen;  15  sen  each  where  there  are  several. 

Tram-cars  (densha)  run  to  all  parts  of  the  city  and  are  speedy,  safe,  and 
cheap.  The  conductors  do  not  always  speak  English,  but  a  key-word  usually 
suffices  for  them,  and  the  traveler  seldom  has  any  difficulty  in  getting  about, 
if  he  knows  how  to  pronounce  the  name  of  his  destination.  A  Belt  Line 
half-circles  the  city,  stopping  at  many  stations  and  linking  up  the  several  rly. 
stations.  Cars  on  the  Takaradzuka  Line  (comp.  p.  629)  leave  every  5  min. 
(from  the  terminus  near  the  Umeda  Station)  between  5  a.m.  and  12.30 
A.M.  making  the  trip  (single  fare,  20  sen;  round  trip,  38)  in  40  min. 

Banks  (comp.  p.  xxiii) :  Yokohama  Specie  Bank;  Awaji-machi  Shichome, 
Higashi-ku.  —  Nippon  Ginko;  Naka-no-shima  Itchome,  Kita-ku.  —  Mitr- 
8ui  Ginko;  Korai-bashi  Nichome,  Higashi-ku.  —  Bank  of  Taiwan  (Taiwan 
Ginko) ;  Korai-bashi  Itchome.  There  are  in  addition  15  or  more  native  banks. 

Steamships.  The  head  office  of  the  Osaka  Shosen  BUiisha  (Osaka  Mer- 
cantile Steamship  Co.;  tel.  add.:  'Shosen,  Osaka')  is  in  the  former  Settle- 
ment, at  64,  Tomijima-oh5,  Kita-ku  (PI.  C,  3).  English  is  spoken  in  all  the 
departments.  The  excellent  ships  of  the  company  (comp.  p.  139)  sail  from 
the  near-by  dock  and  ply  weekly  (or  oftener)  to  many  of  the  Japan  coast 
ports;  to  ports  on  the  E.  and  W.  coasts  of  Korea,  and  to  (1090  M.  in  5  days) 
Tientsin  (N.  China);  fare, ¥66.  1st  cl.;¥36,  2d  cl.  The  Guidebooks  tfree) 
to  'Dairen,'  'Chosen/  and  'Manchuria  and  Beyond'  (all  in  Engliah)  are' 
filled  with  information  (steamer  rates,  sailing  dates,  etc.)  of  v«A.mq  \a  >2tw- 
elen.   The  Inland  Sea  Senriee  (frequent  sainnga  to  the  o\dei  poctii^  «:)Xi«v% 


608    BouieSe.  OSAKA  DesenptiK. 

ddightful  exeurnons,  and  enableB  one  to  get  a  much  better  idea  of  tbeohaim- 
ing  towns  and  coast  of  this  sea  than  is  possible  from  a  big  throui^  Imer. 
Among  the  ports  touched  at|  are  Sakate,  TakamcUaUt  Tadotau,  Itoeaki,  Tada- 
noutni,  Takehatat  Kure,  Vjina,  Miyajitnat  Yanai,  Shimonoadkit  M«ii, 
Tahcihama,  Oitat  and  the  picturesque  Beppu.  The  company's  folder,  *  Our 
Inland  Sea  Service/  is  replete  with  information  (in  English)  and  charming 
views  of  the  places  called  at.  Foreign  food  is  served  on  most  of  the  ships, 
and  English  is  spoken.  Trips  can  be  planned  to  the  best  advantage  with  the 
nuuiagement  or  one  of  the  agents  of  the  company.  A  number  otpcata  are 
visited  in  a  day,  and  at  those  like  Be^pu  the  ships  of  the  huge  and  steadily 
increasing  fleet  (about  125  ships)  call  in  six  or  seven  times  a  day. 

Shops  (comp.  p.  czii).  Few  of  the  native  shops  cater  to  foreign  trade,  and 
travelers  may  find  it  more  advantageous  to  make  purchases  in  EjrOto, 
Kobe,  Yokohama,  or  Tokyo.  For  a  classified  list  of  native  and  foreign  firmib 
religious  organizations,  and  the  like,  consult  the  Directory. 

Osaka,  or  Ozaka  (from  O-e,  great  river,  or  bay;  and  zakOf 
hill),  a  huge  manufacturing  city  (2d  in  size  in  the  Empire,  with 
1,273,658  inhabs.  and  266,494  nouses)  covering  9  sq.  M.  of  the 
wide  Osaka  Plain  at  the  N.E.  end  of  the  bay  of  the  same  name; 
capital  and  chief  city  of  Osaka  Prefecture  (and  /u),  in  Settsu 
Province,  lies  in  lat.  34°  41'  N.,  and  long.  135''  45'  E.  of  Green- 
wich (4'*  16'  W.  from  Tokyo),  and  is  at  once  the  busiest,  mdet 
productive,  and  least  picturesque  of  the  Japanese  cities.  It 
stretches  along  the  low  delta  at  the  mouths  of  several  rivers, 
chief  among  them  the  Yodo-gawa  (a  prolongation  of  the  Kair 
sura  and  the  Uji  rivers),  with  the  bulk  of  the  city  on  the 
S.  bank  of  this  polluted  stream.  Both  the  city  and  its  rapidly 
expanding  suburbs  are  intersected  by  such  a  multiplicity  of 
canals,  rivulets,  and  arms  of  the  near-by  sea  that  the  former, 
with  its  800  odd  bridges,  has  earned  the  title  of  the  Japanese 
Venice.  Other  critics,  cognizant  of  its  host  of  factories  and 
of  the  vast  output  of  manufactured  goods,  call  it  the  Man- 
chester (and  the  Chicago)  of  Japan.  Despite  the  water  to  be 
found  on  every  hand,  the  city  is  not  unfrequently  the  the- 
ater of  vast  and  terrifying  conflagrations.  The  great  fire  of 
1910  burned  11,500  houses  and  other  property  valued  at  mil- 
lions of  yen,  while  that  of  Jan.,  1912  (which  ourned  steadily 
for  24  hrs.),  devastated  an  area  of  1  sq.  M.  (in  the  S.  quarter 
of  the  city),  obliterated  18  streets,  destroyed  4830  houses, 
temples,  and  shrines,  and  caused  a  loss  of  10  million  yen. 

For  administrative  purposes  the  city  is  divided  into  4  wards 
or  ku:  Kita,  at  the  N.;  Higashi  to  the  S.  of  it;  Minami  still 
farther  S.,  and  Nishi  at  the  W.  Its  greatest  extension  is  from 
N.E.  to  S.W.,  and  across  this  wide  area  run  miles  upon  miles 
of  apparently  interminable  streets,  many  of  them  not  above 
15  ft.  wide,  and  all  flanked  by  endless  rows  of  dumpy,  unhand- 
some brown  houses  as  much  alike  as  dried  beans.  In  summer 
certain  of  these  blistering  lanes  are  covered  with  awnings,  like 
the  streets  of  old  Canton,  and  throngs  of  carts,  jinrikis,  and 
grunting,  perspiring,  half-naked  people  pulse  through  them 
Eke  gasping  ferrets  in  a  superheated  runway.  Towering  maa- 
Bively  above  these  small  iracae  a\xw.cX\a^  ^s^  <:«ctain  modeni 


JotamhoH.  OSAKA  86.  BatUe.    609 

ones,  symbolic  of  New  Japan  and  its  growing  wealth  and  im- 
portance. The  best  known  and  busiest  of  the  city  streets  is  the 
long  but   narrow  Shmsairbashi-sugi  which  nms  N.  and  S. 

through  the  Sevba  district  (PI.  D,  2-3), marked  near  its  8. 

terminus  by  the  equally  well-known  iSAinsai  Bridge,  The  great 
castle  stands  at  the  E.  edge  of  the  metropolis  in  a  district 
called  Uyemachi,  flanked  on  the  N.  by  the  OkawOj  or  Big 
River.  A  short  distance  N.W.,  at  the  extreme  E.  end  of 
Kita-kuj  in  a  bend  made  by  the  Yodo-gawa,  is  the  Mint,  where 
the  gold,  silver,  and  copper  coins  of  the  realm  are  made.  The 
Umeda  Station  of  the  Tokaido  Rly.  stands  near  the  center  of 
this  rhomboidal  island,  and  midway,  slightly  toward  the  N., 
is  the  big  Osaka  Prison.  Flanking  the  S.  side,  and  between  it 
and  the  city  proper,  lies  the  crescent-shaped  N(Uea-no-8hiTna 
(Middle  Island),  with  the  Dojimorgawa  on  its  N.  side  and  the 
narrow,  canal-like  Tosabori^awa  at  the  S.  On  this  strip  are 
the  NakcMto-shima  Park,  with  its  P*ublic  Library  and  bronze 
statue  of  Toyotomi  Hideyoshi,  —  regarded  as  the  founder  of 
the  modem  city;  the  Central  Pobt-Ofpice,  and  the  Oaakce, 
and  several  native  hotels.  The  big  and  much-traveled  Yodoya 
Bridge  is  one  of  the  several  which  connect  it  with  the  main 
city  at  the  S.  Farther  down  the  stream  is  a  second,  smaller, 
boat-shaped  island  often  called  Kawaguchi  (River's  Mouth), 
the  site  of  the  Foreign  Quarter,  the  KenchO,  or  Municipal 
Office;  many  docks,  and  the  headquarters  of  the  great  Osaka 
Shasen  Kaisha  (the  second  largest  steamship  company  in  Ja- 
pan), whose  flag  is  familiar  to  the  civilized  world  and  whose 
well-appointed  ships  ply  across  the  Pacific  Ocean  and  to  many 
distant  ports. 

DoTOMBORi,  or  Theater  Street,  a  well-known  thoroughfare 
S.  of  the  Senba  district,  in  a  busy  section  beyond  the  narrow 
Ddtombori-gatoa,  in  Minami-ku,  is  very  gay  after  niehtfall,  and 
is  to  Osaka  what  Isezakich5  is  to  Yokohama.  In  the  yards  of 
some  of  its  tea-houses  are  huge  cages  filled  in  summer  with 
fireflies  (  p.  554),  which  are  liberate  for  the  pleasure  of  the 
guests,  or  put  into  tiny  bamboo  ca^es  for  them  to  take  home. 
The  river  on  summer  nights  is  strikingly  Venetian  in  aspect, 
with  its  pleasure-boats  thronged  with  joyous  merry-makers 
and  illuminated  by  swinging  lanterns.  Prominent  among  the 
city  bridges  is  the  Korai  Bashij  or  Bridge  of  the  Koreans,  an 
ancient  structure  commemorating  the  early  immigrants  from 
that  peninsula,  and  bearing  the  same  relation  to  Osaka  that 
the  Nihon-bashi  does  to  Tokyo,  and  the  Sanjd-bashi  to  KySto; 
anciently  all  distances  were  measured  therefrom,  and  thither 
all  roads  were  supposed  to  center.  Two  of  the  most  important 
vernacular  newspapers  in  Japan,  the  Osaka  Mainichi  and  the 
Asahi,  are  published  in  the  city.  The  resources  and  business 
knowledge  of  the  Osaka  merchants,,  and  the  strong  banks  u^ 
great  warehouses  crammed  with  home  maxmiaAlxis^  ion 


610    Route  36.  OSAKA  HiOory. 

port  and  imports  for  home  consumption,  influence  materially 
the  commerce  of  the  Empire.   Several  of  the  big  foreign  im- 

Sorting  houses  of  Yokohama  and  Kobe  have  branch  offices 
ere,  for  the  pulse  of  commercial  Osaka  is  more  important  than 
that  of  more  artistic  Kyoto.  In  the  6000  or  more  industrial 
establishments  all  manner  of  goods  (including  fake  curios)  are 
manufactured  and  exported  to  Korea,  China,  Formosa,  and  the 
southern  countries.  Merchants  from  the  most  distant  parts  of 
the  Empire  draw  their  supplies  hence,  and  a  feverish  activity 
is  manifest  in  the  ever-extending  line  of  smoking  factories  that 
now  almost  girdle  the  broad  bay.  Nearly  60  million  yen  worth 
of  cotton  yam  is  produced  each  year  by  the  27  huge  cotton- 
spinning  companies  operating  in  the  Osaka  Prefecture.  The 
Osaka  Clearing  House,  founded  in  1879,  is  said  to  have  been 
the  first  of  its  class  in  New  Japan.  The  fine  new  Bank  of  Japan, 
a  handsome  gray  granite  structure  of  the  composite  order,  fac- 
ing the  Naka-no-shima  Parky  is  one  of  the  most  imposing  in 
the  Empire. 

TempO-zan,  an  artificial  hill  near  the  mouth  of  the  AjxkawOy 
at  the  extreme  E.  edge  of  the  city,  overlooks  Osaka  Bay  and  is 
a  favorite  bathing-resort.  The  N.  breakwater  near  by  is  9124 
ft.  long;  the  S.  one  (14,631  ft.)  extends  from  the  N.  side  of  the 
Kizu-gaway  and  leaves  a  channel  between  the  two  bresdcwaters 
220  yds.  wide.  The  harbor  is  to  be  dredged  to  28  ft.,  and  22 
million  yen  are  to  be  spent  in  harbor  improvements.  The  rise 
of  the  tide  is  3-6  ft.  The  white  fixed  light  which  shines  from  a 
white  hexagonal  tower  30  ft.  high  on  the  summit  of  Tempd-zarij 
on  the  S.  side  of  the  Aji-kawa-guchij  52  ft.  above  high  water, 
is  visible  12  M.  over  an  arc  of  246°.  A  fixed  red  light,  visible 
about  7  M.  is  shown  from  a  red  iron  tower  25  ft.  high  on  the 
head  of  the  S.  breakwater;  and  a  fixed  white  light,  visible  9  M. 
from  a  white  iron  tower  25  ft.  high  on  the  head  of  the  N.  breiJc- 
water;  both  lights  are  45  ft.  above  high  water.  Frequent  trains 
of  the  Nishinari  Line  nm  from  Umeda  Station  to  the  main 
Custom-House,  near  the  E.  end  of  the  N.  breakwater,  at  Sor  \ 
kurajima. 

The  Local  Products  Museum,  or  HakubtUsu-jo  (PI.  E,  2), 
contains  exhibits  of  local  products  for  sale. 

BQstofy.   Until  the  end  of  the  15th  cent,  the  spot  where  the  modem  Osaka 
stands  was  called  Naniioa,  a  name  (thought  to  be  a  corruption  of  Nami-haya, 
or  'swift  waves')  said  to  have  been  applied  to  it  by  the  mythical  Jimmu 
Tennd  when  he  landed  here  from  KyQshQ  in  B.C.  660.  It  was  the  residence 
of  the  (16th)  Emperor  Nintoku,  in  the 4th  cent.;  of  Kotoku  (the  36th),  in  the 
7th  cent.,  and  of  Shomu  (45th)  from  744  to  748.   From  the  establishment  of 
Kyoto,  in  794,  it  became  an  important  mart  for  trade,  and  a  seaport  for  war- 
junks  and  commercial  craft.  It  came  prominently  into  history  in  1532  when 
Kennid  Kdsa,  the  head  bonze  of  the  Niahi  Hongwanji  at  Ky5to,  incurred 
the  enmity  of  Oda  Nobunaga,  and  built  for  himself  a  huge  castle  which  he  suo> 
cessfully  defended  for  5  yrs. .  Toyotomi  Hideyoshi  chose  the  city  for  his  ren- 
doDce  in  1583,  enlarged  the  castle,  and  drew  hither  a  number  of  titled  families. 
Its  greatest  prosperity  dates  {Tom  thAt  period.  In  the  17th  cent.,  when  Ky^ 
Oto  nad  upward  of  a  miUioxi  inhabe.*  mQ%\i  oV  \Xa  fsav^\ia«  oame  thiougli 


Nishi  Hongtoanji,  OSAKA  36.  Route.    611 

Osaka  port,  and  this  was  the  greatest  emporium  of  trade  in  Japan.  Its  castle 
was  the  strongest  fortress,  and  its  merchants  the  wealthiest.  The  junk  traffic 
was  immense.  Miles  of  these  clumsy  but  picturesque  craft  floated  on  the 
bosom  of  the  bay  or  lay  moored  to  its  shores  —  many  of  them  in  fact  swing- 
ing at  andior  above  what  at  present  is  a  part  of  the  populous  city,  for  nat- 
ural and  artificial  alterations  have  greatly  changed  the  topographical  features 
of  the  district,  and  the  sea  was  then  much  nearer  the  castle  than  it  is  to^ay. 
The  city  really  owes  its  prominence  to  the^  near-by  and  now  decadent  port  of 
Sakai,  in  the  17th  cent,  the  great  distributing  center  for  thb  section  of  Japan. 

Travelers  familiar  with  the  finer  and  more  elaborate  temples 
of  Kyoto  may  not  find  those  of  Osaka  of  any  great  interest,  and 
may  perhaps  consider  the  Castle,  the  Mint,  and  the  Bip  Bell 
the  only  sights  worth  devoting  time  to.  These  can  easily  be 
inspected  in  one  forenoon,  and  a  fair  idea  secured  of  the  city 
on  the  journey  to  and  from  them.  The  temples  other  than 
those  hereinafter  described  are  not  worth  much.  —  The  Hokoku 
Jinshaj  a  Shinto  shrine  h^d  by  the  OsaJca  Hotels  was  erected 
to  the  memory  of  Toyotomi  Hideyoshi;  it  need  detain  no  one, 
as  the  handsome  granite  ^orii  can  be  seen  from  the  street  while 
passing  it. 

The  Nishi  Hongwanji  (PI.  D,  2)  differs  but  little  from  similar 
fanes  of  the  same  sect  in  other  cities.  A  high,  massive  wall 
with  mediaeval  turrets  at  the  comers  incloses  the  vast  com- 
pound, to  which  a  penthouse  gateway,  with  some  noteworthy 
carvings  in  the  natural  keyaki,  gives  ingress.  Conspicuous 
among  these  are  enfoliated  chrysanthemums,  the  customary 
Dogs  of  Fo  (with  gilded  eyes),  squirming  dragons,  and  what- 
not. The  supporting  pillars  are  sheathed  in  copper-bronze,  and 
broad  sheets  of  this  enrich  the  big  doors,  swung  on  stout  pivots 
and  let  into  the  beams  above  and  below.  Of  the  several  build- 
ings in  the  inclosure  the  main  temple  is  the  only  one  worth 
looking  at.  Its  clean  and  spacious  interior  contains  some 
richly  gilded,  pierced  and  sculptured  panels  carrying  kiku  de- 
signs, and  some  heavily  gilded  keyaki  pillars  whose  capitids, 
cross-beams,  and  compound  brackets  are  decorated  in  unusu- 
ally harmonious  colors.  The  skillfully  carved  polychromatic 
figures  of  flying  teanin  in  the  upper  panels  are  worth  looking  at, 
as  well  as  the  elaborately  gilded  altar  with  an  enshrined  figure 
of  Amida.  Architects  will  be  interested  in  the  decorative  ex- 
pedients grouped  along  the  huge  cross-beams  above  the  vast 
nave,  in  the  form  of  carved  and  painted  figimnes  of  ancient 
sages  and  the  like.  Many  huge  brass  lanterns  swing  from  the 
coffered  ceiling  in  the  natural  wood.  This  differs  from  that  of 
the  adjoining  temple  at  the  right  (connected  to  the  main  fane  by 
a  covered  passageway)  where  each  of  the  192  panels  carries  a 
group  of  painted  flowers,  no  two  of  which  are  alike.  This  con- 
ceit is  further  elaborated  in  the  side  aisles,  with  144  panels. 
The  six  carved  and  painted  panels  above  the  chancel,  snowing 
storks  in  various  attitudes,  are  excellent  examples  of  this  class 
of  work.  There  is  some  very  passable  metal-work  and  fK^mft 
good  wood  sculptures  in  the  spandrels  (at  both  ensdA  dL.\^^ 


612    B(yute  36.  OSAKA  The  OtOk. 

building)  formed  by  the  struts  and  the  joggle-post  at  the  apex 
of  the  great  slanting  roof.  Note  that  the  sembeij  or  brittle 
cracknds,  sold  at  the  temple  are  stamped  with  a  Billikin  — 
evidently  regarded  by  some  devout  Japanese  as  an  Occiden- 
tal goddikin!  Fivemin.  walk  along  the  same  street  (S.)t  behind 
the  same  kind  of  a  wall  perforated  by  a  gate  less  strilang  than 
that  of  the  Nishi  Hongwanjif  is 

The  Higashi  Hongwanji.  similar  in  many  ways  to  its  sister 
edifice.  The  heavily  gildea  sculptured  panels  above  the  altar 
here  display  well-executed  phoenixes  and  chrysanthemums  in 
high  relief,  while  above  them  are  smaller  and  less  effective 
groups  of  angels  of  the  Buddhist  Heaven.  The  magnificent 
supporting  columns  of  the  huge  nave  are  heavily  sheathed  in 
gold  foil  and  are  unusually  splendid  specimens  of  the  long- 
Bved  keyaki;  some  of  them  are  24  in.  in  diameter  and  the  great 
room  seems  filled  with  broad  waves  of  flashing  yellow  Hght 
when  the  early  morning  sim  slants  in.  The  standing  figure  in 
the  central  shrine  is  Antiday  and  the  seated  figure  in  the  shrine 
at  the  right,  Kenshin-Daishi.  The  groups  of  figures  carved  in 
the  natural  wood  and  seated  high  up  on  the  cross-beams  are 
Chinese  sages. 

The  Osaka  Castle  {08hiro)y  in  the  N.E.  quarter  of  the  city 
(PI.  E,  2) J  is  of  historic  rather  than  present  interest,  since  only 
the  foundation  and  a  portion  of  the  old  walls  and  moat  remain 
as  evidences  of  its  once  splendid  estate.  A  special  permit,  ob- 
tainable atjthe  KenchoiKawaguchi  tram-car  from  the  Post-Office 
comer),  where  one  must  sign  one's  name  in  a  register,  is  neces- 
sary, and  should  be  applied  for  in'person  (English  spoken).  The 
Tenjin-baahic&Tj  leaving  from  the  Nippon  Ginko  comer,  passes 
(5  min.  walk)  quite  near  the  castle.  The  building  at  the  left  of 
the  approach  is  the  Military  Club;  the  tall  iron  shaft  in  front 
of  it,  surmoimted  by  a  globe  radiating  light,  stands  to  the  mem- 
ory of  the  soldiers  who  fell  in  the  various  civil  wars_consequent 
to  the  Restoration.  We  enter  the  castle  by  the  Ote-guchiy  or 
old  front  gate;  the  permit  (read  the  instructions  on  the  back) 
must  be  shown  to  the  sentry  on  entering,  and  delivered  to  him 
on  passing  out.  The  inner  moat  is  dry;  the  immense  stones  in 
the  girdling  wall  and  the  huge  iron-sheathed  doors  are  worth 
noting.  S<xne  of  the  stones  of  the  wall  beyond  the  3d  gate  are 
18  ft.  high  and  35  ft.  long.  An  arsenal  stands  to  the  E.  of  the 
wall,  and  within  are  a  number  of  storehouses  for  ammunition, 
and  other  military  structures,  all  guarded  by  soldiery  (of  the 
Fourth  Army  Division).  The  best  views  are  obtainable  from 
the  walls  of  the  inner  keep,  where  there  are  some  antique  ma- 
chine-guns and  a  covered  well  which  formerly  supplied  the  im- 
mense garrison  with  drinking-water.  Even  in  ruins,  the  once 
colossal  structure,  with  its  mighty  encircling  walls  of  ^eat 
square  granite  blocks,  presents  an  imposing  appearance.  Fho- 
tQgraphing  or  sketching  ib  iorbvddecL. 


The  Castle.  OSAKA  86.  RoiUe.    613 

Historical  Sketch.  The  original  structure,  referred  to  by  historians  as 
Ishiyama-J6,  or  '3tony  Mountain  Fortress/  stood  on  the  site  of  a  huke,  for- 
tified monastery  erected  about  1575  by  the  Shinahu  monks  as  a  defense 
against  the  repeated  assaults  of  the  arch-^nemy  of  their  order,  Oda  Nobun- 
ciga.  The  lofty  i>lateau  on  which  it  stood,  high  above  the  Yodo  River,  was  of 
spleodid  strate^o  value,  since  it  commanded  not  only  the  river  but  also  the 
entire  city  and  country  roundabout.  Appreciating  this,  Toyotomi  Hide- 
yoshi  ( Nobunaoa^B  ward)  set  to  work  in  1583  to  build  the  greatest  and  - 
strongest  fortress  ever  seen  in  Japan,  one  that  would  be  the  impregnable|key 
to  Osaka,  Fushimi,  and  Kyoto  itself.  Between  30,000  and  60,000  laborers 
toiled  day  and  night  for  3  yrs.  constructing  the  hu^e  building  and  the  wide 
encircling  moats.  Louis  Froez,  the  Portuguese  Jesuit,  writing  in  1586,  says: 
*  The  walls  are  of  great  amplitude  and  height,  —  all  of  stone.  In  order  that 
the  nrultitade  of  workers  should  not  cause  confusion,  it  was  ordained  that 
each  liaater  should  have  his  determined  place,  where  he  should  work,  a  great 
number  of  people  being  employed  during  the  night  in  emptying  the  water 
which  contmuiJly  kept  rising  in  the  fosses.  What  is  the  cause  of  such  marvel 
in  this  matter  is  to  see  whence  such  a  great  number  of  stones  of  all  kinds  of 
sises  have  been  taken;  there  being  a  great  lack  of  them  there.  For  this  rea- 
son he  commanded  the  neighboring  lords  for  20  or  30  leagues  around  to  send 
boats  loaded  with  them.  In  this  way  the  citj'  of  Sakai  alone  had  been 
charged  to  dispatch  200  vessels  every  day.  So  that  from  our  house  we  some- 
times saw  as  mltny  as  1000  entering  under  full  sail  and  in  good  order  together. 
On  discharging,  the  stones  are  placed  with  such  care  and  heed  that  none 
(without  leaving  his  head  there)  might  take  a  single  one  of  them  to  place  it 
elsewhere.  And  in  order  that  the  work  might  go  forward  with  greater  heat, 
it  happening  that  a  lord  who  supervised  fell  short  either  in  men  or  industry, 
he  was  at  oome  sent  into  exile,  and  stripped  of  his  states  and  revenues.  Be- 
sides the  towers  and  the  bulwarks  around  the  fortresses,  which  are  visible 
from  afar  by  reason  of  their  height,  and  the  splendor  of  the  tiles  which  are 
all  Akled.  he  is  rearing  many  other  remarkable  edifices  there.' 

*  The  plan  of  the  fortress, '  says  Brinkley, '  showed  three  surrounding  moats 
and  escarpments,  an  arrangement  which  has  always  been  adopted  whenever 

Sossible  by  the  architects  of  Japanese  castles.  These  moats  were  about  150 
;.  wide  and  20  ft.  deep,  and  they  not  only  contained  from  6  to  10  ft.  of 
watar,  but  had  numbers  of  wooden  stakes  &sed  in  the  bottom  to  prevent 
an  enemy  from  wading  across.  The  revetment  of  the  escarp  was  built  with 
polygonal  granite  blocks,  put  together  in  the  fashion  of  Japanese  masonry, 
the  blocks  being  pyramidal  and  having  the  small  end  of  the  pyramid  turned 
inward  and  ^e  broad  base  outward.  No  mortar  was  used,  and  thus  the 
revetment  presented  a  shghtly  irregular  rubble  face.  The  corners  and  angles 
were  strengthened  with  large  quoins  of  carefully  squared  ashler,  usually 
bound  together  by  strong  cramps  of  iron  or  copper.  Each  escarpment  was 
crowned  by  a  series  of  loopholed  curtain-walls,  li  ft.  thick,  10  in  the  outer- 
most indosure,  and  5  in  each  of  the  inner;  and  between  these  walls,  or  para- 
pets, there  were  trenches,  12  ft.  wide  and  18  ft.  deep,  covered  with  Iraunboos 
and  earth  so  as  to  constitute  pitfalls.  The  parapets  were  8  ft.  high  on  the 
face,  but  had  on  the  inner  side  a  banquette  approached  by  stone  steps.  In 
building  these  walls  clay  mixed  with  salt  was  used,  an  old  recipe  which  gave 
a  hard  and  durable  composition.  The  general  trace  was  irregular,  having 
salient  and  reentering  angles  for  purposes  of  flank  defense,  and  the  salient 
angles  were  crowned  with  pagoda-shaped  turrets  from  20  to  30  ft.  high.  The 
outermost  moat  inclosed  100  acres,  and  the  innermost,  the  hommaru,  or  keep, 
12{  acres.' 

Iiideifoshi*8  residence,  surrounded  by  extensive  barracks,  and  two  score 
or  more  godowns  for  provisions,  ammunition,  fuel,  and  what-not,  stood  in 
the  ixmer  belt,  near  the  great  donjon,  which  in  turn  was  tiled  with  copper, 
had  a  base  of  about  100  ft.  sq.,  and  rose  40  ft.  from  a  battering  stone  base- 
naent  48  ft.  high.  Many  of  the  huge  granite  blocks  used  in  the  construction 
of  this  formidable  defense  remain  to  astonish  the  beholder  by  their  sise.   A 
peculisx  feature  of  the  main  wooden  bridge  spanning  the  moat  was  that,  by 
the  removal  of  a  single  pin,  the  whole  structure  would  taW  \iO  \A!Mna — 
whence  its  name,  the  Ab&cua  (Soroban)  Bridge .  *  Bach  Bate  open^  xxv^u  vn 
iaaer  court  aurrounded  by  a  lofty  parapet,  from  which  acToaa-^T©  co>iL<SL\» 
Toujvd  upon  the  enemy  after  be  had  forced  the  gate,  as  wAV  «*  vwwa^  ^^ 


614    RoiUe  36,  OSAKA  The  MinL 

bricU[e  leading  to  the  ^ate.  An  assailant,  who,  having  broken  thioufdi  the 
massive,  iron-bound  timbers  of  an  oAter  gate,  with  the  expectation  en  find- 
ing himself  within  the  enceinte,  found  himself  instead,  perhaps  to  his 


ment,  in  a  kind  of  ctU-de-sae,  and  the  target  for  bullets,  arrows,  and  other 
mia<9iles  rained  upon  him  from  all  sides  by  nidden  foes;  in  the  face  of  such  a 
fire  he  had  to  turn  and  face  another  gate  at  right  angles  to  the  original  en- 
trance.' 

The  dismantled  old  building  revives  many  stirring  memories.  Here,  in 
1586,  Hideyoahi  received  in  audience  Froez,  Coelho,  7  other  Jesuits,  and  15 
Catechists,  with  their  i>etition  to  be  allowed  further  to  spread  the  Christian 
faith,  and  here  in  1614  leyasu.  vrith  180,000  men,  besieged  the  castle  and  its 
90,000  fighting  ronin  under  Tokugawa  Hideyori.  In  Jan.,  1615,  after  the 
signing  of  the  peace  conditions,  the  inner  and  outer  moats  were  filled  in  and 
the  outer  ramparts  demolished.  Upward  of  270,000  Tokugawa  troopq  were 
employed  in  the  second  siege  of  the  castle  during  the  summer  of  1616,  which 
resulted  (June  4)  in  the  burnini^  of  the  citadel  and  the  lulling  of  thousands  of 
its  defenders.  Hideyori  committed  suicide  in  his  shot-proof  refuge  in  the 
donjon;  his  consort  was  killed  b^  one  of  his  retainers;  and  while  30  men  and 
women  who  had  accompanied  him  set  fire  to  the  building  and  disemboweled 
themselves,  the  Osaka  Castle  fell,  and  with  it  perished  the  House  of  Toyo' 
tomi. 

The  *Mint,  or  Zoheikyoku  ('Money-making  office ')  is  a  short 
walk  N.  of  tne  castle,  on  the  other  side  of  the  Okawa  (river). 
Cross  the  bridge  and  turn  to  the  right.  Permits  obtainable 
(no  fees)  from  the  hotel  management.  The  main  building,  in 
the  Roman  style  of  architecture,  which  was  constructed  in 
1871,  has  a  clock-tower  over  the  porch  and  carries  Imperial 
chrysanthemum  enrichments.  Here  one  is  conducted  (Eng- 
lish spoken)  through  the  barred,  prison-like  rooms  guarded  by 
sentries,  and  is  shown  all  the  processes,  from  refining  gold,  silver, 
and  copper  to  the  stamping  and  finishing  of  them  into  glisten- 
ing coins  of  the  realm.  Great  precautions  are  taken  against 
theft,  and  visitors  are  supposed  to  abide  by  the  rules  of  the  es- 
tablishment. On  leaving,  one  is  requested  to  scrape  one's  feet 
thoroughly  on  the  door-mat,  to  remove  any  particles  of  metal 
that  may  have  adhered  to  them.  The  region  roimdabout  is 
noted  for  its  cherry  blossoms  (in  April). 

The  Tenno-ji  (more  properly  Shi-Tenno-ji),  an  ancient 
Buddhist  temple  (PI.  E,  4)  in  the  S.  E.  quarter  of  the  city  (tram- 
car  from  the  Nippon  Ginko  to  the  Post-Office,  where  change  to 
a  Namha  Station  car,  then  into  a  Tenno-ji  car),  is  of  consider- 
able historic  interest  to  ecclesiologists  in  that  it  is  intimately 
associated  with  the  introduction  of  Buddhism  in  Japan;  mater- 
ially it  is  not  worth  visiting,  save  for  the  big  bell,  which  is  re- 
puted the  largest  in  the  Empire.  The  original  fane  is  said  to 
have  been 'founded  in  a.d.  600  by  Shotoku-taishi,  History  does 
not  record  how  long  the  primitive  structure  stood,  but  the 
present  one,  now  tottering  with  age,  replaced  one  burned  in 
1802.  It  is  dedicated,  as  its  name  implies,  to  the  martial  Shi- 
tennOj  or  guardian  gods  of  the  four  sides  of  the  universe.  A 
big  stone  torii  marks  the  entrance  to  the  extensive  grounds,  in 
which  are  a  number  of  dilapidated  shrines  and  a  decrepid  old 
pagoda,f  5  stories  high,  showing  traces  of  former  beauty.  The 
omy  thing  of  interest  in  tVie  ea^^  <M«Aed  and  misnamed 


The  Brome  Bell,  OSAKA  36,  Rofde.    615 

Kondd  or  Golden  Hall,  is  a  gilded  copper  Buddha  said  to  have 
been  presented  to  the  temple  by  the  King  of  Kudara  (Korea) 
more  than  a  thousand  jrrs.  ago,  and  to  have  been  the  first  of 
its  kind  to  reach  Japan.  There  are  a  number  of  rubbishy 
relics  in  the  darksome  interior  of  no  interest  to  foreigners.  In 
one  of  the  adjoining  coiui»  a  man  keeps  a  stock  of  turtles  for 
sale,  each  unfortunate  reptile  centered  on  a  low  bamboo  stick 
stuck  in  the  ground,  waving  its  feet  as  in  the  act  of  swimming, 
and  waiting  for  some  charitable  person  to  come  along  ana 
liberate  it.  In  passing  through  this  court  note  the  remarkable 
bronze  horse  tethered  to  a  bamboo,  with  a  blanket  embossed 
with  a  gilded  16-petal  kiku  crest  on  his  rump.  In  other  courts 
are  other  turtle-sellers  with  water-buckets  filled  with  the 
wrig^ing  chelonians.  One  crafty  wight  has  his  stand  near  a 
pond,  and  when  his  stock  in  trade  is  bought  and  liberated 
therein,  he  replenishes  it  by  a  single  swoop  of  a  capacious  net. 
Scores  iof  happy  turtles  swim  about  and  scramble  for  the 
little  pink  balls  of  sweets  fed  to  them;  sun  themselves  on  a 
wooden  platform  near  the  center,  and  perchance  wonder  when 
their  next  expatriation  will  occur.  The  small  bell  which  over- 
looks this  pond  is  not  to  be  confounded  with  the  one  men- 
tioned below.  —  At  the  left  of  the  grounds  stands  a  roofed 
structure  inclosing  a  sunken  well  about  10  by  12  ft.,  walled  in 
with  granite  blocks.  The  oblong  stone  basin  at  the  bottom  is 
filled  with  water  on  which  float  hundreds  of  thin  wood  strips 
bearing  the  names  of  persons  recently  deceased.  The  cr«du- 
lous  believe  that  if  these  strips  are  placed  in  a  tiny  cup,  held 
under  the  trickle  falling  from  the  mouth  of  the  huge  stone  tor- 
toise, then  immersed  in  the  water  of  the  well,  the  flowing  stream 
will  carry  their  petitions  to  the  spirit  of  tne  deified  Shotohvr 
taishi,  —  The  great  pine  tree  in  the  temple  yard  (63  ft.  high 
with  a  trunk  14  ft.  in  circumference)  is  the  oldest  in  the  city 
and  is  said  to  have  been  planted  850  yrs.  ago. 

The  *Bronze  Bell  for  which  the  temple  is  noted,  and  which 
the  Osaka  people  believe  is  the  biggest  in  the  world,  hangs  10 
ft.  from  the  floor,  in  an  immense  belfry  that  rises  from  ia  wide 
granite  plinth  at  one  end  of  the  compound.  Admission,  5  sen. 
The  dragon  on  the  ceiling  is  by  a  local  painter.  The  leviathan 
is  26  ft.  high,  34  in  circumference,  16  across  the  mouth,  1 J  ft. 
thick  at  the  rim,  weighs  upward  of  155  tons,  and  is  struck  by  a 
heavy  beam  swung  on  the  outside.  The  upper  part  is  covered 
with  umbones,  and  nearly  all  the  remaining  greenish  surface  is 
inscribed  with  extracts  from  the  Buddhist  classics  and  with  the 
names  of  persons  who  subscribed  to  the  casting  of  it  in  1902. 

It  is  undoubtedly  the  greatest  hanging  bell  in  the  world.  The  'Giar 
Kolokol,'  the  great  Moscow  bell  (which  is  in  the  yard  of  the  Kremlin,  is  Ij^jF]!.- 
in  diameter,  the  same  in  height,  was  cast  in  1733,  and  is  computed  .to  n^eiii^ 
440,000  lbs.,)  is  supposed  never  to  have  been  hung.  It  is  now  used  as  ac3uKQ<^ 
the  great  piece  broken  out  of  its  side  by  a  fire  serving  «a  a  bot\>  ol  ^oorawsr 
There  is  another  bell  in  Moecow  which  weighs  128  tons.  '^ocYAiQA  ^Om 


616    Bmde  36,  OSAKA  Excunions. 

in  size  is  that  near  a  ruined  temple  at  Mingunt  about  9  M.  above  Mandalaar* 
in  Burma:  the  diameter  at  the  Up  is  18  ft.,  the  height  to  the  top  of  the  shacUe, 
31  ft.,  and  the  weight  about  80  tons.  The  belfry  in  which  it  once  stood  was 
long  since  shaken  down  by  an  earthquake  and  the  bell  is  now  shored  up,  but 
does  not  swing  free  of  the  ground.  The  great  bell  of  the  Chion-in  Temjde 
at  Ky5to  weighs  74  tons;  that  of  the  Tddaiji,  at  Nara,  48  tons.  The  bell  in 
the  Tar-chung-8z\  or  Bell-Tower,  near  Peking,  is  14  ft.  high,  34  ft.  in  droum- 
ference  at  the  rim,  9  in.  thick,  was  cast  about  1406,  and  weighs  120,000 
lbs.  The  so-called  big  bells  of  Europe  seem  pygmies  compared  to  these 
mants,  for  the  bourdon  of  Notre  Dame  weighs  but  17  tons;  that  of  the  Sens 
Qathedral,  16;  and  that  of  the  Amiens  Cathedral,  11  tons.  The  new '  Kaiser- 
glocke'  of  the  Cologne  Cathedral  weighs  25  tons,  but  the '  Big  Ben'  of  West- 
minster weighs  only  13  tons.  The  *  Great  Peter,'  at  York  is  of  10  tons  weight, 
aiid  the  *  Great  Tom '  at  Oxford,  7  tons.  The  largest  bell  on  the  American 
continent  is  perhaps  the  Santa  Maria  de  Ouadalupe,  in  the  W.  tower  of  the 
Mexico  City  Cathedral.  It  was  cast  in  Tacubaya  (a  suburb  of  Mexico  City) 
in  1792,  is  10  ft.  across  at  the  rim,  16^  ft.  high,  weighs  27,000  lbs.,  and  cost 
10,400  pesos.  Its  voice  is  grave,  melodious,  and  i>enetrating,  while  that  of 
the  Os(Dea  monster  shatters  the  atmosphere  for  miles  around  and  sounds 
something  like  the  crack  of  doom  accompanied  by  a  million  angry  bees  heard 
through  a  megaphone! 

At  the  rear  of  the  belfry,  housed  in  a  dilapidated  structure, 
is  a  sortof  ecclesiological  museum  called  Tenndji  HobiUsuhwan 
(no  fees),  where  among  other  tawdry  relics  one  may  see  two 
huge  polychromatic  festival  drums,  an  old  illuminated  kake- 
mono of  the  Buddhist  Heaven,  some  curious  masks,  figures,  and 
what-not.  — The  neax-hy  Irruimiya  Park  is  the  most  popular 
of  the  city's  pleasure-grounds,  and  is  usually  filled  with  peep- 
shows,  hucksters,  wrestlers,  '  movies,'  and  the  like.  —  The  re- 
turning tram-car  (9  sen)  goes  direct  to  the  Post-Office  comer, 
where  one  changes  into  one  for  the  Japan  Bank,  if  the  hotel 'be 
one's  destination. 

Excursions  to  Sumiyoshi,  Sakai,  and  Wakayama  ( Nan-  Kai 
lUy,),  Trains  leave  at  frequent  intervals  from  the  Naniba 
Station  (PL  D.  3)  and  follow  the  contour  of  Osaka  Bay.  The 
best  of  the  attractive  views  are  seen  from  the  right  side  of  the 
car.  The  big  island  visible  across  the  bay  is  Awaji  (p.  632) .  By 
starting  early  in  the  a.m.  one  may  inspect  the  three  places  in  a 
leisurely  fashion  and  return^to  Osaka  in  the  afternoon. 

Sumiyoshi,  a  suburb  of  Osaka  (3  M.,  18  sen),  contains  a  lo- 
cally celebrated  temple  revered  by  fishermen  because  they  are 
under  the  special  protection  of  its  deity.  The  three  gods  whom 
legend  avers  assisted  the  Empress  Jingo  on  her  invasion  of 
Korea  are  worshiped  here.  Tne  grounds  contain  almost  as 
many  tanks  as  an  aquarium.  Conspicuous  among  the  marine 
specimens  are  goldfish  and  tortoises,  the  latter  with  backs  usu- 
ally covered  with  seaweed  and  called  minogame  (minoy  a  straw 
or  hempen  rain-coat;  kame^  a  tortoise),  from  their  resemblance 
to  the  sta'aw  coats  worn  by  peasants.  The  region  roundabout  is 
known  for  its  splendid  old  trees,  prominent  among  which  are 
caniphor  laurels,  Chinese  Pagoda  trees  (Sophora  japonica), 
Pride-of-India  {Melia  Azedarach,  or  false  sycamore),  Salis- 
burias.  tree-lotuses  {CeUi%  siv/^nsia;  Jap.  enoki),  and  magnifi- 
cent  old  pines. 


Wakayama,  OSAKA  36.  Route.    617 

Sakai  (7  M.,  30  sen),  chief  city  of  Izumi  Province,  with  61,000 
inhabs.,  on  the  E.  shore  of  the  Izumi  Nada,  was^  during  the 
Middle  Ages,  the  greatest  seaport  of  Japan.  Originally  called 
Sakadr^nO'TsUf  the  *  boundary  seaport,'  it  derives  its  name  from 
its  position  on  the  boundary  of  Settsu,  Kavxichiy  and  Izumi. 
Its  early  life  was  similar  to  that  of  a  self-reliant  medieval  Ital- 
ian republic,  a  sort  of  Japanese  Venice,  with  an  administra- 
tion unique  in  the  Empire,  and  with  vast  fleets  of  ships  and 
many  rich  merchants.  Its  prosperity  declined  when  Hideyoahi 
undertook  the  development  of  Osakaj  and  it  is  now  merely  a 
manufacturing  center  for  cutlery  and  for  the  cotton  rugs  or 
carpets  known  as  Sakai  dantsu.  The  locally  renowned  temples 
are  of  no  interest  to  foreigners.  Sakai* s  early  history  is  inti- 
mately associated  with  the  introduction  of  Jesuitism  in  Japan, 
and  the  hatred  which  certain  of  the  samurai  entertained  for  all 
foreigners  culminated  in  1868  in  the  murder  of  an  officer  and 
10  sailors  of  a  French  man-of-war  —  a  crime  expiated  by  11  of 
the  participants,  who  committed  harakiri  in  oile  of  the  local 
temples,  in  the  presence  of  Japanese  and  Frenchmen. 

Wakayama  (40  M.  from  Osaka;  fare,  ¥1.65;  time,  2  hrs.), 
the  chief  city  (pop.  77,300)  of  Wakayama  Prefecture,  Kit 
Province,  stands  near  the  mouth  of  the  Kino  River ^  and  is  the 
junction  of  the  Wakayam^i  Section  of  the  Kanaai  Line  of  the  . 
Imperial  Government  Railways.  The  region  roundabout  forms 
the  southernmost  part  or  the  rounded  peninsula  of  YamatOf 
belongs  to  the  Nankai-dOf  or  Southern  Sea  Road,  and  is  re- 
garded by  the  Japanese  as  one  of  the  loveliest  in  the  Empire. 
The  province  combines  most  of  the  natural  beauties  of  Japan- 
ese scenery,  and  produces  many  valuable  products.  The  warm 
waters  of  the  Kii  Channel  (or  Linschoten  Strait)  wash  the  W. 
shores,  the  indented  bays  of  which  are  extolled  for  their  ex- 
quisite views.  Carefully  cultivated  fields  stretch  southward 
and  bring  forth  bountiful  crops  of  rice,  cotton,  and  grain.  The 
valleys  between  the  hills  flame  with  orange  plantations,  the 
hills  themselves  are  studded  all  over  with  rounded  tea-bushes 
that  look  like  the  umbones  on  a  big  bell.  Noble  conifers,  paper 
mulberries,  cryptomerias,  retinosporas,  and  tallow-trees  adorn 
the  mt.  slopes,  and  eauaUy  splendid  camphor  laurels  the  tem- 
ple yards.  The  mandarin-oranges  (Chinese  chu-sha  kih;  Jap. 
mikan)  of  this  district  are  in  the  truest  sense  the  Citrus  nobUiSj 
for  they  are  delicious  and  deservedly  famous.  Quantities  of 
them  are  produced  in  the  Arida  district,  S.E.  of  Wakayamaj 
and  are  sent  throughout  N.  Japan.  When  ripe,  the  skin  of  the 
fruit  is  of  a  cinnabar  red  color,  and  adheres  to  the  pulp  by  a 
few  loose  fibers. 

The  Wakayama  Castle,  erected  (in  1850)  just  prior  to  the 
Restoration,  is  excellently  preserved,  and  is  considered  a  good 
example  of  this  style  of  architecture.  A  fine  view  \^  ob\as!^Bic\^ 
from  the  upper  (3d>  story,  over  the  wooded  \nW  on  '^iVasStL  NX. 


f 


618    Route  S7.         OSAKA  TO  KOBE  ArrivaL 

stands,  to  the  sea  oh  one  side,  and  to  mts.  on  the  other.  The 
old  castie,  built  in  1586  by  Hideyoshi's  brother  Hidenaga, 
has  perished.  —  Kimii^-dera,  a  Buddhist  temple  2d  in  the  list 
of  the  33  sacred  to  Ktoannorif  finely  situated  on  the  slope  of 
Nakusa-yama  (754  ft.)  3  M.  S»E.  of  the  city,  is  the  vantage- 
point  whence  Japanese  usually  view  the  charming  stretch  of 
sandy  beach  known  as  Waka-^no-tara,  which  extends  westward 
along  Waka^ruHurorVxm.  —  Koya-sanj  the  holy  mt.  described 
at  p.  511,  lies  30  M.  to  the  E.  of  Wakayama,  and  is  often  ap- 
proached by  pilgrims  from  this  region.  Foreigners  will  perhaps 
find  it  easier  and  more  convenient  to  make  the  excursion  from 
KyStOi  The  nearest  point  by  rly.  (several  trains  daily  in 
about  1  hr.)  is  (24  M.)  Koyorgychi,  Coasting-steamers  leave 
Wakayama  almost  daily  for  various  small  ports  near  by. 

Tokohama-Kobe  Rte.  (24-25-36),  continued  from  p.  607. 
Westwurd  from  Osaka  Station  the  train  runs  through  vast, 
busy  freight-yards  that  recall  those  of  Kiansas  CJity.  Miles 
of  narrow  streets  dodge  away  at  the  left,  and  scores  of  factory 
chimneys  rise  high  above  the  roofs  of  the  diminutive  houses. 
From  342  M.  Kanzaki  Jet.,  a  branch  line  runs  N.W.  to  the 
Takaradzuka  Mineral  Springs  (p.  629);  the  Hot  Springs  of 
Arima,  and  Maizuru,  which  with  the  near-by  Amanohashidaie 
are  described  in  Rte.  29. — The  extensive  godowns  that  flank 
tie  rly.  between  Kamaki  and  347  M.  Nishinomiya  are  usually 
filled  with  ripening  sake  —  the  region  roundabout  being  cele- 
brated for  the  production  of  the  best  brands  of  this  tipple. 
Beyond  Shiba,  with  its  Eta  Settlement  (right  of  the  track),  a 
bulky  ridge  of  seared  hills  protects  the  district  from  the  keen 
winter  blasts  and  aids  the  farmers  to  produce  bumper  crops 
on  their  land.  The  extensive  system  of  dikes  hereabout  often 
fails  to  keep  the  turbulent  streams  in  check,  and  the  land  is  not 
unfrequently  submerged.  The  electric  trolley  at  the  left  links 
Kobe  with  Ky5to.  The  sea  now  comes  into  view  and  adds  a 
charming  quality  to  the  landscape.  The  two  short  tunnels 
through  which  the  train  runs  are  beneath  the  sandy  beds  of 
small  rivers.  Bismarck  Hill  stands  out  boldly  at  the  N.W.; 
the  many  attractive  homes  perched  on  the  hill-slopes  beyond 
Sumiyoshi  are  of  Kobe  residents.  The  views  at  the  left  of  the 
splendid  Kobe  Harbor  with  hundreds  of  ships  riding  at  anchor 
are  enchanting.  Far  beyond  are  the  beautiful  reaches  of  the 
Inland  Sea,  one  of  the  loveliest  sheets  of  water  in  the  world. 
The  Kobe  Steel  Works  are  passed  at  the  left.  358  M.  Kobe 
(Sannomiya  Station),  See  below. 

37.  Kobe  and  Neighborhood. 

Arrival  and  Departure.  Railway  Stations,  Steamship-Landings,  Hotels. 

JUUway  Stations.   1.  Sannomiva  CPl.  D,  2),  on  Motomachi,  in  the  N.E. 
quarter,  (near  the  N.  Umit  of  the  fonaet  ^oTeVsn  Co\i««»s^\iS«Ui  which  * 


iotela.  KOBE  37.  Route,    619 

sage  should  be  checked,  and  where  travelen  bound  for  either  of  the  foreign 
hotels  should  alight.— 2.  Kobe  Station  (PI.  C,  2) ,  i  M.  to  the  8.W.,  on  Aioi-oho, 
near  the  center  of  Japanese  Kobe.  —  3.  Hyogo  Station  (PI.  B,  3),  on  Hama- 
zaki-dori,  1  M.  from  Sannomiya,  in  the  center  of  HySgo.  Electric  tram- 
cars  run  near  the  Sannomiya  Station  and  past  the  others.  Hotel  omnibuaea 
do  not  always  meet  trains.  Jinriki  from  the  Sannomiya  StcUion  to  the  (} 
M.)  Oriental  Hotel,  15  «en;  to  the  Tor  Hotel,  20;  from  the  Kobe  Station, 
25-30  sen ;  from  the  Hyogo  Station,  36-40  sen  respectively.  TIm  customary 
hotel  charge  for  trunks  from  Sannomiya  is  15  sen  each  (20-25  sen  from  the 
others).  Give  checks  to  the  hotel  manager  or  runner.  If  there  are  a  number 
of  trunks  a  special  price  will  be  made.  When  sending  luggage  to  the  San- 
nomiya Station,  say  whether  it  is  bound  E.  or  W.,  as  there  are  two  baggage- 
rooms,  the  west-bound  on  the  S.  side  of  the  track.  —  Commercial  and  other 
houses  in  Kobe  are  usually  known  by  their  numbers  (rather  than  names), 
as  in  Yokohama. 

Steamship-Landing  (PI.  D,  2).  The  Hatoba,  or  American  Pier,  is  at  the 
W.  end  of  the  Bund,  2  min.  walk  from  the  Oriental  Hotel  and  15  min.  from 
the  Tor.  Ships'  launches  usually  land  passengers  (no  charge)  on  the  pier. 
Hotel  launches  meet  incoming  ships,  and  English-speaking  runners  conduct 
passengersa  shore  (free) ,  take  charge  of  luggage  at  25c.  per  package  and  pass 
it  through  the  Custom-House  (left  of  the  landing).    The  examination  is 

Erompt,  courteous,  and  lenient.  Passengers  are  asked  if  the^^  have  any  to- 
acco,  cigars,  or  dgarettes  (see  p.  rxiv).  Sampans  (bargaining  necessary) 
are  numerous;  from  ship  to  shore,  or  vice-versa,  25-30  sen.  —  The  Eastern, 
Nippon  Yusen  Kaisha,  and  other  piers,  to  which  some  ships  go,  are  at  the 
E.  edge  of  the  Settlement  and  the  Bund,  practically  the  same  distance  from 
the  hotels. 

Hotels  (comp.  p.  xxix).  *Tot  Hotel,  Ltd.  (Tel.  add.:  *Tor,  Kobe'),  a  new, 
modem  hotel  with  70  rooms  (each  with  a  bath-room)  and  accommodations 
for  100  guests,  stands  in  the  midst  of  fine  grounds  backed  by  pine  woods 
at  the  foot  of  Suwayama  (PI.  D,  1),  on  Yamamoto-d5ri,  at  the  top  of  Naka- 
yamate-ddri.  Good  air;  magnificent  views.  English  and  German  spoken. 
Rates  from  ¥7  a  da^  and  upward,  Am.  pi.  Good  food.  Naval  and  Army 
men  and  their  famihes  from  ¥6  and  upward.  Reduction  for  a  long  stay. 
Garage;  motor-cars. 

*Oriental  Hotel,  Ltd.  (Tel.  add.:  *  Oriental,  Kobe'),  a  huge,  up-to-date 
fireproof  structure  (cost  1  million  yen)  on  the  Bund,  in  the  Foreign  Settle- 
ment (PI.  D,  2)  overlooking  the  sea  (fine  views),  close  to  the  banks  and  busi- 
ness houses.  English  management;  good  food.  Elevators,  roof-gaitien,  hot 
and  cold  running  water  in  rooms;  set  bowls.  PoiJular  with  all  classes.  Read- 
ing room  with  many  foreign  periodicals.  Music.  Excellent  Grill  Room. 
Rates  from  ¥7.50  and  upward;  Am.  pi.;  less  for  2  in  a  room,  and  for  a  long 
stay.  —  Minor  hotels  m  less  desirable  situations  are :  The  Mikado,  62 
Higashi  Kawasaki-cho;  native  management;  from  ¥5  and  upward.  —  Cen- 
tral//o/eZ,  Shimoyamate-d5ri,  Nichome;  ¥3.50  to  ¥5.  —  Pleasanton  Hotel, 
86  Nakayamate-ddri,  Sanchome,  ¥5. 

Means  of  Transportation. 

In  the  absence  of  cabs,  Jinrikis  (p.  Ixxxviii)  are  the  popular  means  of  con- 
veyance ;  fares  have  a  steadily  rising  tendency,  and  oertam  of  the  men  do  not 
hesitate  to  fleece  tourists  who  may  not  know  the  correct  price.  Travelers 
on  shore  for  the  day  from  ships  in  the  harbor  should  arrive  at  an  under- 
standing with  jinriki-men  before  engaging  them,  else  there  may  be  a  dis- 
cussion when  payment  is  proffered.  Hydgo  is  oftentimes  considered  by  the 
men  as  out  of  the  Kobe  limit,  and  extra  money  is  demanded.  In  case  of 
dispute,  consult  a  policeman,  or  the  hotel  manager.  An  agreement  must 
always  be  arrived  at  for  out-of-town  trips.  A  pushman  usually  expects  about 
50%  of  the  sum  paid  to  the  puller.  The  traveler  may  wish  to  bear  in  mind 
that  he  can  always  employ  a  jinriki  at  a  lower  rate  a  block  or  two  distant 
from  the  hotel  or  rljr.  station.  Men  with  rubber-tired  jinrikis  expect  about 
\  more  than  those  with  the  old-style  vehicles.  One  of  the  latter  can  most 
always  be  hired  on  the  street  at  20-23  «en  the  hr.  (50%  more  after  10  p.m.), 
but  the  runner  will  expect  more  if  he  is  kept  constantly  on  the  move  at  a 
brisk  pace.  The  rate  per  dajf  in  the  city  is  ¥1.70;  \  day,  ¥1.  The  uaual 
rate  demanded  by  a  hotel  jinnki-man  is  40  sen  for  the  iBt  ue.\^^  Iqs  \2bA^^v 


620    RoiUe  87.  KOBE  Practical  N0U9. 

and  15  for  each  succeeding  hr.  Sight-seeing  can  usually  be  done  to  better  ad- 
vantage on  foot. 

An  Electric  Strebt-Car  Line  operates  a  cheap,  speedy,  and  eflScient 
service  to  nearly  all  points  in  the  amalgamated  city,  and  is  rapicHy  reachioi; 
out  to  suburban  places.  An  Interurban  line  connects  Kobe  with  Osaka  (anS 
Takaradzuka) ,  thence  to  (47  M.)  Kydto,  and  maintains  a  frequent  and  reli- 
able service.  This  does  not,  however,  compare  in  speed  and  comfort  with 
the  rly.  line. 

Railway  and  Steamship  Offices.   Express,  Post-  and  Telegraph-Offices. 
Consulates.  Banks.  Money-changers.  Clubs.  Newspapers  and  Directories. 

Churches.    Shops.    Guides. 

Railway  Offices  are  scattered  throughout  the  city,  but  the  traveler  will 
find  those  at  the  rly.  stations  the  most  convenient.  The  hotel  manager  wUI 
always  attend  to  the  buying  of  tickets,  checking  of  luggage,  and  the  engaging 
of  sleeping-berths. 

The  Steamship  Offices  are  nearly  all  in  the  Foreign  Settlement  (see  the 
plan  of  this),  within  a  few  min.  walk  of  the  hotel.  Toyo  Kiaen  Kaiaha  (TeL 
add.:  'Toyo  Asano')i  81  Kyo-machi.  Nippon  Yuaen  Kaiaha  (Tel,  add.: 
•  Yusen'),  10  Kaigan-ddri  Itchome.  —  Canadian  Pacific  Railway  CompanM 
(Royal  MailS.S.  Line;  Tel.  add.:  '  Citamprag ') ,  14  Maye-machi. — Nam 
German  Lloyd  (H.  Ahrens  &  Co.,  Nachf.  Tel.  add.:  '  Am^ns,'  and  'Nofd- 
1103rd'),  10  Kaigan-ddri.  —  0«aA;a  Shoaen  Kaiaha  (Tel.  add.:  'Shosen).  3 
Kaigan-ddri  (the  native  Bund,  a  prolongation  of  that  of  the  Foreign  Settle* 
ment,  W.  of  the  American  Pier).  Peninaular  &  Oriental  Steam  NamgaUam 
Co.  (Tel.  add.:  '  Peninsular '),  109  Ito-machi.  —  Pacific  Mail  S.S.  Co.  &fl 
add.:  'Solano'),  83  Kyp-machi. —  Cie  Dea  Meaaageriea  Maritimea  CTeL 
add.: '  Messagerie '),  8-B  Maye-machi.  —  Cornea  &  Co.^  7  Kaigan-ddri,  an 
agents  for  the  Eastern  &  Australian  S.S.  Line;  South  African  Line,  and 
others.  —  DodweU  SeCo.,  Ltd.,  82  lyo-machi,  for  the  Northern  Pacific  Rly. 
Co.;  Bank  Line;  Asiatic  Steam  Navigation  Co.,  and  others.  —  TheAm^ricaoi 
Trading  Co.,  99  Kita-machi,  for  the  American  &  Oriental  Transport  Line 
Steamers;  Indian-African  Line,  etc.  For  other  addresses  consult  the  diree- 
tories  mentioned  below.  —  Kobe  is  a  port  of  call  for  all  the  big  passengw 
steamers  plying  to  Europe  and  the  Weat,  and  some  of  the  lines  make  it  their 
terminal.  Ships  of  the  Nippon  Yuaen  Kaiaha  (p.  139)  sail  hence  at  frequent 
intervals  to  the  Philippines,  Australia,  Europe,  India,  China,  Korea,  and 
the  Siberian  littoral,  and  to  many  coastal  ports  of  Japan.  Illustrated  book- 
lets quoting  rates,  sailing-dates,  etc.,  free  on  application  to  any  of  the  com- 
pany's agents.  Many  of  the  Oaaka  Shoaen  Kaiaha  shii>s  touch  here  on  voy- 
ages to  the  Inland  Sea,  Korea,  and  North  China.  Information  relating  to 
boats  for  ports  in  the  near-by  Awaji  and  Shikoku  lalanda  can  always  behad 
of  the  hotel  management. 

Express  Offices.  Helm  Broa.,  Ltd.  (Tel,  add:  'Helm'),  14-B  Naniwa- 
tnachi;  Landing,  Shipping,  Forwarding  Agents,  and  Customs  Brokers;  agents 
for  Pitt  &  Scott  and  other  foreign  express  companies;  travelers'  luggage, 
curios,  etc.,  packed  stored  and  shipped;  English  spoken. 

Post-  and  Telegraph-Offices  (see  p.  xcii)  are  usually  in  the  same  building; 
there  is  one  in  the  Foreign  Settlement,  and  several  others  in  various  parte 
of  the  city. 

Consulates.  The  American  Consulate  is  on  the  Bund,  next  to  the  Oriental 
Hotel;  the  English  at  9  Naniwa-machi;  the  German  at  115  Iligaahi-raachL 
Austria-Hungary,  The  Argentine  Republic,  Belgium,  Brazil,  Chili,  China, 
Denmark,  France,  Italy,  The  Netherlands,  Norway,  Peru,  Portugal,  Rou- 
mania,  Russia,  Spain,  Sweden,  and  Switzerland  have  consuls  here,  but  ae 
locations  are  apt  to  change,  the  traveler  is  referred  to  the  directories  on  file 
at  the  hotels,  etc. 

Banks  (comp.  p.  xxiii)  where  travelers*  checks,  money-orders,  letters  of 
credit,  etc.,  may  be  cashed :  Yokohama  Specie  Bank,  Ltd.  (PI.  D,  2) ,  27  Sakaye- 
machi,  Sanchome  (English  spoken).  —  Chartered  Bank  of  Jridia,  Aua^wiat 
and  China,  26  Naniwa-machi.  —  International  Banking  Corporation,  38 
Naka-machi.  —  DeiUach-AaicUiache  Bank,  25  Ky6-iuaohi.  —  Hongkong  ^ 
Shanghai  Banking  Co.,  2  Bund.  M ouey  c&u  be  exchanged  at  any  of  the  above, 
aa  well  as  at  the  shops  of  the  eeveiaV 


6.  Ani«rtoaa 

a,  Amerlaiw  TrKlingCu, 

t.  DtlUlh  ConaulBle 

«.  Cuinllui  PsDifls  OBllvmr  Co- 

Bojal  M>U  8^.  Line 
IS.  Chulareil  Butk 
«.  Chliu  «  Japui  TiBdiog  Co 

Ltd. 


3,  tXtdirallACii.,  Ltd. 

T.  Eutern  &  AaMraUui  S.S.CO. 

i  FrsDcb  ContaUce 

S.  French  Mall  S.S.  Co> 

E.  Oetmui  Cou^uIaM 


>■  !>.  J,  HculJng  JB  Co..  I,M. 

I.  Oelm  Bids..  LI<1. 

I.  HoDgkoDg  &  aiiuigbu  UiLiili 

:.  InlsnutlDDJtl  Banking  Uo, 
AS,  Japan  OlironlFlu 
SS.  Jaritiue.  Hatb»ou  &  Co.,  Ltd . 
^.  Koba  Harald 
SB.  Luie,  Crairfonl  A  Oo.,  LVI. 
10.  NorlU  Oemuia  Uuf-I  ».S.  Cu. 
e.  DrianUl  Hotsl 
KB.  PeDinsular  &  Itrieutal  BMani 

NaTlnatlon  Ci>. 
».  Pneifle  Midi  8.8.  Co. 
S.  I^t  Offiee 
37.  Bomui  CathuKc  Cliurob 
St  TofD  KiiSD  K»lsba  d.3-  Co. 
iS-  Union  Cburob 


i 


HisUyry.  KOBE  S7,  Route.    621 

Money-Changers  (usually  Chinese)  on  Nishi-maohL  Consult  the  rate 
quotations  in  the  newspapers  before  putting  through  important  transactions. 

Clubs.  The  Kobe  Club^  an  international  organization  housed  in  fine 
quarters  at  14  Konoch5  Rokuchome  (at  the  S.  end  of  the  Recreation  Ground* 
PL.  D,  2),  is  the  most  popular  of  the  city  clubs  and  is  one  of  the  best  in  Japan. 
Card  from  some  resident  member.  The  Club-House  and  Links  of  the  Kobe 
Golf  Club  are  at  Rokkoean.  Kobe  Masonic  Club,  48  Nakayamate-ddri  Ni- 
chome. 

Newspapers  (comp.  p.  dvii)  and  Directories.  The  Japan  Chronicle  (Rob- 
ert Young,  editor  and  proprietor)  '65  Naniwa-machi  (PI.  D,  2).  Daily,  morn- 
ing, in  English;  10  sen  a  copy.  The  Chronicle  Folder  Directory  (¥3)  con- 
tains the  names  of  residents  in  Kobe,  Osaka,  Kydto,  Moji,  Shimonoseki,  Na- 
gasaki, Korea,  and  Dairen.  —  The  Kobe  Herald  (A.  W.  Curtis,  editor  and 
proprietor),  23  Naniwa-machi  (PI.  D,  2).  Daily,  afternoon,  in  English,  10  sen. 
The  Herald  Directory  (¥3)  includes  Kobe,  Ky6to,  Osaka,  Moji,  and  Shi- 
monoseki, besides  a  list  of  the  foreign  missionaries  residing  in  Japan.  Both 
the  above  papers  are  newsy,  and  well  written,  and  contain  foreign  telegrams 
and  other  matters  of  interest  and  value  to  travelers. 

Churches.  Kobe  Union  Church,  48  Akashi-machi.  —  Roman  Catholic 
Church,  37  Naka-machi.  —  AU  Saints'  Church,  53  Nakajramate-dori,  San- 
chome.  The  F.Af.CA.  is  in  the  same  neighborhood.  For  information  relat- 
ing to  the  different  Church  Missions  and  Associations,  the  Bible  Society,  Sal- 
vation Army,  etc.,  consult  the  local  directories. 

Shops  (comp.  p.  cxii).  Fobeign  Department  Store:  Lane,  Crawford  A 
Co.  (a  branch  of  the  Yokohama  house),  36  Naka-machi;  English  spoken; 
Tourists'  requisites;  Delicatessen  goods;  Imported  Cigars  and  Tobaccos; 
Wines  and  Liquors;  Provisions,  etc.  Many  of  the  most  attractive  native 
shops  are  in  Moto-machi;  bargaining  is  usually  necessary.  Harishin,  138 
Moto-machi,  Sanchdme,  has  a  good  collection  of  curios.  Attractive  specimens 
of  Loochoo  Lacquered  Ware  may  be  seen  at  C.  Nakamura's,  311  Moto- 
machi  dori,  Sanchome;  prices  fixed  and  reasonable.  The  traveler  may  like  to 
be  reminded  that  Ky5to  is  headquarters  for  silks,  fans,  dolls,  embroidered 
screens,  daiiiasccno-ware,  gold-bronze,  fine  porcelain,  and  the  like;  that  the 
best  ivory  and  silver  is  produced  in  TokyO,  and  that  the  big  shops  of  these 
two  cities  and  Yokohama  usually  have  the  assortments  most  liked  by  for- 
eigners. There  are  9  native  bazaars  scattered  throughout  the  city.  The  lus- 
trous blue  and  purple  f^lazod  faience  displayed  in  certain  of  the  porcelain  shops 
is  made  locally  and  is  known  as  Kobe-yaki;  the  delicate  turquoise-blue  pieces 
with  a  fine,  uniform  crackled  surface  are  considered  the  most  desirable. 

Bookstores:  J.  L.  Thompson  A  Co.,  3  Kaigan-dori  Itchome  (Agents  for 
Kelly  &  Walsh,  of  Yokohama).  — Kawase  Bookstore,  Moto-machi  Itchome. 

Drug  Store,  at  the  above  address  (American  specialties).  —  A.  C.  Sim 
&  Co.,  18  Maye-machi  (English  and  Continental  specialties). 

Guides  (comp.  p.  zxvi)  can  be  secured  at  any  of  the  hotels  at  ¥4  a  day,  for 
one  or  2  persons,  and  50  sen  additional  for  others  in  a  party.  Traveling  ex- 
penses must  be  paid  by  the  employer. 

Kobe,  or  Kohe-Hyogo  (as  it  is  sometimes  miscalled),  a  busy, 
beautiful,  bustling  city  of  brains  and  energy  at  the  head  of 
Osaka  Bay,  in  Settsu  Province,  Hyogo-kerif  is  5th  in  point  of 
size  in  the  Empire,  and  indubitably  is  one  of  the  cleanest  and 
most  attractive  ports  in  Japan.  It  is  finely  situated  on  the 
N.W.  shore  of  its  broad  harbor  in  lat.  34°  41'  N.  and  in  long. 
135°  11'  E.  of  Greenwich,  and  albeit  it  has  100,000  houses  and 
436,(X)0  inhabs.  (700  of  whom  are  British  and  4000  of  various 
nationalities  —  chiefly  Chinese),  and  covers,  an  area  of  ap- 
proximately 14  sq.  M.,  it  is  growing  at  a  rate  that  threatens 
to  absorb  all  the  country  immediately^  surrounding  it.  It  is 
the  best  and  most  significant  example  in  Japan  of  what  a  few 
hundred  intelligent  foreigners  and  Japanese,  imbued  withcvyv^ 
ideals  and  a  spirit  of  helpfulness,  can  make  ol  a  iioii<di<e»cxv^\>^ 


622    Rauie  S7.  KOBE  De8cnpti9e. 

decadent  port  with  only  a  good  climate  and  a  superb  situation 
to  recommend  it.  Prior  to  1868,  when  the  old  native  town  of 
Hy6go  was  opened  to  foreign  trade  and  residence,  the  E. 
quarter,  where  the  handsome,  Europeanized  city  of  Kobe  now 
stands,  was  the  site  of  three  rambling  suburban  villages  — 
HashudOf  FvUUsuchayaf  and  Kobe.  Hyogo  was  decrepit  and 
was  hoanr  with  age  when  the  Portuguese  landed  in  Japan  in 
1542,  and  history  mentions  it  in  a.d.  743  (under  the  name 
Oioada-Tomari)  as  a  fishing-port.  Tairor^no'Kiyomori  brought 
it  prominently  into  the  foreground  when  he  made  it  the  royal 
residence  for  a  few  months  in  1181,  but  it  attained  no  real 
commercial  importance  until  1868,  when  the  first  sAert  British 
merchants  settled  there.  From  that  period  its  growth  was 
rapid.  Fortunately  for  the  new  colony,  British  influence  and 
the  Britain's  genius  for  Colonizing  and  organization  were  para- 
mount, and  to  this  fact  is  unquestionably  due  the  city's  per- 
manent advancement  and  its  present  status. 

Kobe  and  Hy5go  are  separated  by  a  dusty  trickle  referred 
to  as  the  Minato  River  and  spanned  by  short  bridges,  but  they 
were  united  politically  in  1878.  In  1889  the  astonished  Hydgo, 
which  had  obtained  for  centuries,  capitulated  to  necessitv, 
swallowed  its  cha^n,  delivered  up  its  identity,  and  was  ao- 
sorbed  by  Koheshi  (city).  The  early  English,  German,  and 
American  settlers  cooperated  and  worked  for  its  enhancement 
to  such  purpose  that  erelong  it  bore  the  proud  title,  the  *  Model 
Settlement'  —  one  which  it  has  never  relinquished.  Its  clean, 
tree-shaded  streets,  its  handsome  buildings;  its  phenomenal 
commercial  activity^  and  its  magnificent  environment  all  con- 
firm its  title  as  the  finest  'foreign'  city  in  Japan.  Conspicuous 
among  its  most  valuable  assets,  and  important  factors  in  its 
upbuuding,  are  its  two  daily  newspapers,  printed  in  English  — 
the  wholly  admirable  Japan  Chronicle^  and  the  Kche  Herald. 
Both  are  known  for  their  militancy;  and  one,  in  particular, 
for  such  an  embarrassing  aptitude  for  defending  the  city's 
menaced  interests  that  poachers  often  find  themselves  in  the 
unhappy  position  of  a  man  riding  a  tiger  —  very  willing  to  get 
off  but  uncertain  as  to  the  best  method! 

The  amalgamated  city  occupies  a  long,  narrow  strip  of  land 
flanked  on  the  S.  by  the  sea  and  on  the  N.  by  a  densely  wooded 
range  of  lofty  and  splendidly  uneven  hills  (referred  to  locally 
as  the  *Kobe  Alps'),  down  whose  ravines  plunge  lovely  water- 
falls, and  from  whose  summits  are  obtainable  views  so  grand 
and  so  extensive  that  one  is  held  spellbound  by  their  beauty. 
The  far-famed  hiland  Sea  —  most  beautiful  of  marine  pros- 
pects in  Japan  —  stretches  away  southwestward,  and  when  the 
wide  bay  is  flecked  with  white-sailed  junks  standing  in  the  of- 
Bng  and  making  for,  or  emerging  from,  the  entrance,  the  sight 
is  singularly  beguiling.  Tba  Tofcaido  RLy.y  from  (376  M.) 
Tdky^,  (357  M.)  Yokohasna,  «JV!\  V^l  W:S^i^Vi  enters  the 


Descnptive,  KOBE  37.  Raide.    623 

city  from  the  east,  and  after  passing  through  both  settlements 
goes  westward  (as  the  Sanyd  Line)  to  (329  M.)  Shimonaseki, 
Sien  to (567  M.)  Kagoahimaj  and  (493  M.)  NagascJcif  on  KyUskU 
Island,  As  the  commercial  head  of  all  the  Japanese  ports, 
Kobe's  statistical  returns  numb  the  senses  by  theu-magmtude. 
The  total  annual  trade  is  something  like  195  million  American 
dollars,  or  about  40%  of  the  total  trade  of  the  Empire.  The 
imports,  of  approximately  305  million  yen,  and  the  151  million 
of  exports,  represent  about  25%  and  60%  respectively  of  the 
total  trade.  Imports  are  increasing  at  the  rate  of  about  45 
millions  a  year,  and  exports  30  millions.  Raw  cotton  from  the 
United  States  and  British  India  represents  about  45%  of  the 
imports,  which  are  brought  in  2500  steamships  (1600  Japanese) 
of  various  countries.  The  number  of  ships  which  anchor  each 
year  in  the  broad  and  placid  harbor  (which  will  permit  ships 
of  20,000  tons  to  moor  inside)  is  increasing  so  steadily  tJiat 
harbor  improvements  involving  foreshore  reclamation,  the 
deepening  of  the  bav,  the  increasing  of  the  area  (of  1715  acres), 
and  the  addition  of  three  detached  breakwaters  with  a  com- 
bined length  of  nearly  3  miles  and  to  cost  9  million  yen,  are 
under  construction.  In  the  1500  manufacturing  plants  scat- 
tered throughout  the  city  (many  small  home  workshops) 
25,000  industrious  people  make  articles  that  are  exported  to  the. 
uttermost  ends  of  the  earth.  In  the  32  match-factories  em- 
ploying 5334  workmen,  safety-matches  worth  10  miUion  yen 
are  made  each  year  and  shipped  to  the  Asiatic  littoral.  Whale- 
Oil,  Tea,  SakCy  Vegetable  Wax,  Refined  Camphor  (see  Rte.  82), 
Peppermint-Oil,  Agaivagar,  or  isinglass  {kanten)  made  from 
seaweed  (and  exported  to  China),  Pearl  Buttons  (made  from 
sea-shells  brought  from  the  Loochoo,  and  the  South  Sea 
Islands),  Straw-Matting,  Toothbrushes,  and  Porcelain  and 
Earthenwares  of  various  provinces,  figure  largely  among  the 
picturesque  exports.  Tucked  away  somewhere  in  the  city 
is  an  obscure  printing-office  where  'old'  postage-stamps  are 
made  with  such  fidelity  to  the  originals  that  the  shrewdest 
traveler  is  apt  to  be  deceived  into  buying  them.  Among  the 
important  manufacturing  interests  is  the  huge  Kawasaki 
Dockyard  Company,  on  the  W*  shore  of  the  bay,  one  of  the 
largest  in  Japan,  with  3000  workmen.  A  varied  assortment  of 
machinery,  and  ships  up  to  20,000  tons  burden,  are  made 
here,  as  well  as  in  the  almost  equally  large  Mitsubishi  Dock- 
yard &  Engine  Works.  TheKanegafuchi  Spinning-Mill  is  con- 
sidered a  model  of  its  kind.  From  the  first-named  dockyard 
(says  the  Japan  Chronicle)  'battleshipNS  as  massive  and  mur- 
derous as  any  floated  by  the  most  Christian  and  civilized  jaar 
tions  in  the  West,  are  builded  and  launched.  Where  40  yrs. 
ago  wooden  junks  and  sampans  were  being  built,  tiiere  are  now 
dockyards  where  steamships  of  all  classes  and  sizes  axe  qicscl- 
structed,  from  tub-like  tramps  to  tuibiBed  XAXve^sAio&Ki^* 


624    Bouie  37.  KOBE  Descriptwe. 

This  transformation  is  typical  of  what  is  going  on  right  round 
the  coast  of  Osaka  Bay.  The  dawn  is  no  longer  poetically  her- 
alded by  the  deep  booming  of  the  temple  bell,  but  by  the  shrill 
blasts  of  steam  hooters  and  sirens  whose  strident  notes  fall 
discordantly  upon  the  ears  of  those  whom  they  awaken,  and  re- 
morselessly upon  the  ears  of  those  whom  they  summon  to  Hie 
daily  task  in  factory  or  workshop.  ...  On  every  side  there 
are  mdications  of  a  steady  development  of  industrial  and  com- 
mercial activity,  and  though  lovers  of  the  picturesque  may  be- 
moan the  fact  that  one-time  moss-grown  shrines  and  torii  are 
now  soot-begrimed  from  the  surrounding  factories,  it  remains 
an  incontrovertible  fact  that  smoking  factory  chimneys  are 
much  more  valuable  as  a  national  asset  in  these  prosaic  dajrs 
than  the  most  mossy  of  temples  or  the  most  mystic  of  shrines.' 
Despite  its  commercialism,  none  more  than  the  Kobe  people 
strive  to  retain  the  picturesqueness  which  characterizes  the 
port.  Though  its  41  banks  are  indications  of  modernism,  its 
90  Buddhist  temples  and  74  Shintd  shrines  remain  to  impajt  a 
.  pleasing  ecclesiastical  flavor  to  the  city.  The  booming  temple 
bells  still  compete  with  the  ear-splitting  steam  whistles  of  the 
'foreign  devils,'  and  the  satisfying  tenets  of  Buddhism  are 
preached  side  by  side  with  those  of  the  Occidental  Christians. 
There  are  several  foreign  churches,  6  comfortable  clubs,  ^ 
public  and  private  hospitals,  numerous  libraries,  a  Chamber  of 
Commerce  (established  in  1887),  and  a  host  of  Common,  Tech- 
nical, Commercial,  and  other  schools  in  which  3300  Chinese 
students  are  learning  what  it  means  to  live  and  grow  up  in  • 
a  civilized  community.  Kobe's  excellent  foreign  hotels,  the 
beauty  of  its  smrounding  hills,  the  never-fading  charm  of  its 
sea  views,  its  balmy  climate,  and  the  purity  and  dryness  of  its 
air  are  fast  converting  it  into  a  sort  of  open-air  sanatorium 
for  the  sun-baked,  wilted  residents  of  Manila,  Hongkong,  and 
the  Chinese  littoral.  Few  Japanese  ports  have  so  many  places 
of  beauty  and  interest  near  by,  and  few  offer  more  creature 
comforts  to  the  tourist  seeking  such.  Days  or  even  weeks  may 
be  spent  contentedly,  according  to  one's  temperament.  The 
social  life  among  the  foreigners  (who  are  hospitable  to  a  fault) 
is  delightful,  and  the  recollections  one  carries  away  of  the  city 
and  its  people  are  not  soon  forgotten.  Many  of  the  streets  of 
the  Settlement  are  shaded  by  fine  old  acacias,  maples,  pines, 
willows,  and  flowering  specimens  of  the  Pavlownia  impeirialis. 
A  massive  sea-wall  runs  along  the  attractive  foreign  Bund,  and 
the  luxurious  houses  which  stand  back  from  it  impart  an  air 
of  prosperity  and  solidity  not  always  features  of  Japanese  ports. 
Many  of  the  foreigners  dwell  in  flower-embowered  houses  high 
poised  on  the  wooded  ridge  behind  the  city,  and  the  seascapes 
visible  from  the  glassed-m  balconies  are  replete  with  charm. 
— ^^The  promontory  at  t\ie  ^.  ed^'B  of  the  city  and  bay,  where 
the  lighthouse  standB,i8ttieWa4x\M\aQkl.  ToaKoMiasaAw  spit 


Bronze  Daibutsu,  KOBE  37,  Route,    625 

divides  the  two  harbors.  —  The  gray  granite  monument  in  the 
Recreation  Ground  commemorates  Alexander  Cameron  Sim 
(b.  1840;  d.  1900),  a  publicHspirited  Scotchman  who  was  a 
prominent  figure  in  the  upbuil(&ng  of  the  port. 

The  temples  and  shrines  in  Kobe  are  inferior  to  those  of 
Kyoto,  but  are  worth  seeing  by  the  traveler  who  may  not  have 
seen  those  of  the  latter  place.  —  The  Nanko  Jinja  (or  Navr 
kosha),  a  Shinto  shrine  (PI.  C,  2)  near  the  center  of  the  city, 
founded  in  1871  and  dedicated  to  Kusunohi  Masashige,  stands 
in  spacious  grounds  where  there  are  usually  a  host  of  peep- 
shows,  itinerant  peddlers,  etc.  Two  spirited  bronze  horses  re- 
pose in  front  of  the  shrine,  where  at  certain  times  one  may 
witness  impressive  Shinto  ceremonies  conducted  by  priests  in 
mediaeval  robes.  The  big  machine-gun  in  the  yard  is  a  relic  of 
the  Japan-Russia  War.  On  May  25,  when  the  anniversary  of 
Masashige^s  death  (b.  1294;  d.  1336)  is  celebrated,  the  place  is 
thronged,  and  special  festivities  are  conducted. 

The  Bronze  Daibutsu,  a  huge  seated  figure  of  Buddha  48  ft. 
high  and  85  ft.  in  circumference,  erected  .by  Nanjo  Shobei  (a 
paper  manufacturer  of  Hyogo)  in  1891,  in  the  Ndfvkuji  Tem- 
ple grounds  at  Kita-Sakasekawa-machi  (PL  B,  3),  near  the 
Hyogo  rly.  station  (li  M.  from  the  Oriental  Hotel) ,  is  without 
artistic  merit  and  is  decidedly  inferior  to  the  fine  Daibutsu 
at  Kamakura,  The  facial  expression  lacks  spirituality.  The 
caretaker  dwells  in  a  cubby-nole  at  the  rear  where  swinging 
bronze  doors  admit  one  (  fee,  3  sen)  to  the  interior  of  the  sta- 
'  tue.  The  gilded  figurine  of  Amida  at  one  of  the  interior  shrines 
is  said  to  be  over  300  yrs.  old.  The  small  bronze  figure  ( Tanjo 
Shaka)  of  a  nude  infant,  supposed  to  represent  Buddha  at 
birth,  is  greatly  reverenced;  the  right  hand  pointing  upward, 
and  the  left  downward,  symbolize  his  power  over  heaven  and 
earth.  The  trashy  wood  figures  attributed  to  Unkei  are  pjer- 
haps  by  some  local  carpenter.  The  Engli^-speaking  suide 
who  sometimes  gratuitously  attaches  himself  to  foreigners  nere- 
abouts  conducts  a  ciuio-store  near  by,  and  is  out  for  business. 
A  5  min.  walk  farther  along  the  street  brings  one  to 

The  Shinkdji  (PI.  B,  3),  in  the  yard  of  which  is  an  attractive 
seated  bronze  figiu'e  of  Buddha  with  a  Hebraic  cast  of  features. 
Buddhists  throughout  Japan  know  the  temple  for  its  associa- 
tion with  the  bonze  Ochi  Michihide  (or  Ippen-Sh5nin;  b.  1239; 
d.  1289),  who  in  his  youth  successively  studied  under  priests 
of  the  Tendaif  JodOy  and  NemhtUsu  sects,  and  who  afterwards 
traveled  through  the  provinces  trying  to  gain  adherents  for  a 
new  doctrine  which  he  named  the  Ji^shH.  On  account  of  his 
peregrinations  the  people  dubbed  him  YugyS-Shonin,  or  the 
Traveling  Bonze;  he  died  herie,  and  in  1886  received  the  pos- 
thumous title  Enshd-Daishi,  A  little  farther  along,  diagonally 
across  the  street,  and  standing  a  bit  back  tbexeiioiii^  \&  «» 
ruinous  13-story  Faqoda,  the  JilsansS-sekitlAML,  *2ft  \X..  \a9^> 


626    Route  37,  KOBE  Nunobiki  WaierfdL 

and  ierected  to  the.  memory  of  one  of  the  ears  of  TcnrdHMh 
Kiyomori! 

The  Ikuta  Jinja  (PL  D,  2)  a  small  Shintd  shrine  near  the 
Sannomiya  rly.  station,  dedicated  to  the  Goddess  Wakorhime' 
no-MikotOi  and  said  to  have  been  founded  in  the  3d  cent,  by 
the  Empress  Jingo,  is  embowered  in  camphor  and  cryptome- 
ria  trees. 

Suwavama  Park  (PI.  D,  1),  an  elevated  spot  behind  the 
port  (foUow  the  street  to  the  Tor  Hotel,  then  turn  to  the  left), 
commands  a  splendid  panorama  of  the  city,  the  bay,  and  the 
distant  mts.  of  Kii  Province  and  Awaji  Island.  The  stone 
monument  commemorates  certain  French  astronomers  who 
from  this  point  once  observed  the  transit  of  Venus.  By  fol- 
lowing the  zigzag  road  leading  along  the  ridge  one  soon  comes 
to  OkUrayama  (rl.  C,  1),  with  a  still  wider  view  and  a  bronze 
statue  (unveiled  Oct.  26, 1911)  to  the  late  Prince  I  to. 

Ezcursionsf.  Many  pleasant  short  excursions  are  possible 
from  Kobe,  and  a  host  of  attractive  spots  lie  within  easy  walk- 
ing distance  of  it.  The  paths  to  many  of  them  lead  over  hills 
from  whose  summits  wonderful  and  inspiring  views  of  land 
and  sea  are  obtainable.  Gorgeous  wild  flowers  in  spring  and 
summer,  more  flowers  and  glorious  autumn  tints  later  in  the 
year,  and  graceful  waterfalls  which  plunge  into,  and  flow  out 
of,  ferny  dells  and  picturesque  gorges  at  all  times  are  some  of 
the  accompaniments.  The  excellent  state  of  the  mt.  paths 
is  due  in  great  part  to  the  Kobe  Walking  Society,  a  popular 
organization  to  which  many  of  the  foreign  residents  belong, 
and  from  the  members  of  which  the  pedestrian  can  get  helpfS 
information.  Good  sketch  maps  of  the  Kobe  hinterland  are  on 
sale  at  reasonable  prices  at  the  office  of  the  Japan  Chronicle. 
The  numerous  sign-boards  which  the  progressive  Walking 
Society  (badge  useful)  has  placed  along  the  highways  render 
a  guide  unnecessary  in  the  Kobe  neighborhood.  Certain  mem- 
bers of  this  organization  are  alive  to  the  ethereal  beauty  of  the 
hill-paths  on  moonlit  nights,  and  if  the  traveler  can  secure  an 
invitation  to  be  one  of  a  partv  on  a  nocturnal  tramp  to  one  of 
the  many  vantage-points  back  of  the  port,  whence  the  magni- 
ficent bay  with  its  ghostly  junks  and  flitting  gray  shapes  with 
glistening  eyes  can  be  seen,  or  Kobe  illuminated  like  some 
splendid  stadium,  he  will  not  soon  forget  the  impression  re- 
ceived. 

The  ♦Nunobikii  Waterfall  (PI.  E,  1)  which  plunges  down 
from  the  hills  (li  M.  from  the  Oriental  Hotel;  30  min.  walk; 
tram-car)  at  the  N.E.  limit  of  the  city,  is  one  of  the  most  de- 
lightful spots  in  the  yicinity.  The  road  (Nonosiki-chd)  leads 

'  The  many  waterfalls  (jtaki)  of  this  name  in  Japan  is  accounted  for  by  the 

fact  that  NwuJbiki  means  *  epTeading  cotton  cloth  on  the  ground  for  bl^h- 

iDgf  *  and  suggests  falling  watet.  It  Va  o\\«n^s»wi«.%  a  '^ow-word* — a  mean- 

iniJeaB  ezpresaion  prefixed  m3«p8Aeae  \Aol^«c^Q^%^»t>;Xi%  «r2kaq1  Quphony. 


Mayornan  Temple.  KOBE  37.  Roui^,    627 

left  from  the  N.  end  of  the  Recreation  Ground,  and  continues 
through  the  native  quarter,  passing  on  its  way  a  number  of 
small  Kibis  where  porcelain  may  be  seen  in  the  process  of  mak- 
ing. At  the  foot  of  the  hill  the  path  bends  to  the  left,  then 
zigzags  up  the  cliff.  Signs  point  the  way,  and  splendid  views 
unfold  themselves  in  retrospect  as  one  ascends.  The  lower 
(me-dakif  or  female  fall)  is  43  ft.  high;  the  upper  (o-dake,  or 
male  fall)  is  80  ft.  and  it  tumbles  over  a  perpendicular  granite 
wall  into  a  green  swirling  pool  in  a  fine  gorge.  The  customary 
tea-house  sits  astride  the  point  whence  the  best  views  are  olJ- 
tainable,  but  one  can  get  fairly  good  ones  by  climbing  a  trifle 
higher  up.  The  trail  which  follows  the  stream  round  to  the  left 
beyond  the  upper  fall  leads  (10  min.)  to  the  gigantic  retaining- 
waJl  that  forms  one  side  of  the  reservoir  holding  Kobe's  water- 
supply.  A  still  higher  road  rounds  the  profile  of  the  hill  to  (li 
M.)  Futatabi-sanf  with  an  old  Buddhist  temple,  the  Tairyu-ji, 
said  to  date  from  the  8th  cent,  and  dedicated  to  Kohd-Daishi 
(the  founder  of  Koyorsan),  A  somewhat  roughish  trail  goes 
(right)  over  the  shoulder  of  Mayorsan  (see  below)  to  Rokkosan. 

The  *Maya-san  Temple  can  be  included  with  Nunohiki  in 
a  forenoon  walk  by  following  the  forest  path  down  at  the  right 
of  the  point  immediately  above  the  tea-house  at  the  upper  fall, 
then  through  Kumochi  village  to  the  main  road.  In  summer 
the  small  sequestered  gardens  hereabout  flame  with  bright 
flowers,  and  the  dewy  dingles  down  which  the  numerous  whim- 
pering streamlets  shther  are  beautiful  with  reddening  maples. 
Good  walkers  will  choose  the  upper  road,  near  the  crest  of  the 
ridge,  as  the  views  for  about  a  mile  along  the  terrace  following 
the  contour  of  the  hills  are  superb.  —  From  the  hotel  one  may 
take  a  jinriki  (60  sen  to  the  foot  of  Mayasan;  round  trip,  ¥1. 
20)  or  proceed  in  a  tram-car  to  Htgure-dorij  then  turn  left  and 
walk  to  the  foot  of  the  hill.  Hence  to  the  terrace  on  which  the 
temple  stands  is  a  1  hr.  walk.  The  first  half  is  up  through  a 
picturesque  gorge  where  an  excellent  gray  granite  flecked  with 
black  spots  is  quarried.  The  highroad  is  usually  thronged  on 
Sundays  with  people  decked  in  their  best,  going  to  or  coming 
from  the  temple.  The  scores  of  tiny  paper  prayers  stuck  in  the 
earth  are  petitions  to  the  tutelar  deity.  Several  small  shrines, 
numerous  tea-houses,  and  not  a  few  whining  beggars  mark 
the  upward  course,  tne  last  half  of  which  (i  hr.)  is  throu^  a 
lovely  forest  of  maples,  pines,  and  unusually  lofty  crypto- 
merias.  Stones  and  tree-roots  take  the  place  of  steps  in  many 
places.  The  temple  belongs  to  the  Shingon  sect  of  Buddlust^ 
is  called  Tenjoji  (but  is  better  known  locally  as  the  Moon  Tem- 
ple), and  occupies  the  site  of  an  original  fane  erected  in  645 
A.D.  by  Hodo-Sennin,  It  stands  on  an  artificial  terrace  at  the 
top  of  several  long  flights  of  (341)  steps,  at  a  point  several  hun- 
di^  feet  below  the  summit  (2450  ft.)  of  the  hill.  The  thsssr^ 
from  Uie  flagged  atrium  are  entrancing,  asid  ds^  ^ost^^  ^vd% 


628    Route  37.  KOBE  Rokkoatm. 

many  miles  to  see.  From  this  great  elevation  the  wide  Osaka 
Bay  seems  tipped  on  one  edge,  and  the  jmiks  and  steam- 
sldps  that  furrow  its  blue  surface  resemble  flies  creeping  along 
a  cerulean  curtain  hung  against  the  distant  mts.  Few  of  the 
panoramas  in  this  spectacular  country  are  finer  or  more  fas- 
cinating. Several  refreshment  stands,  a  big  stone  laver  half-en- 
circled by  a  bronze  dragon,  and  numerous  fine  bronze  figures 
dispute  the  restricted  space  with  the  fane.  Upward  of  300,000 
persons  come  hither  each  year  to  worship  a  small  carved  wood 
figure  (not  shown)  of  Maya  Bunin  (Buddha's  mother),  said  to 
have  been  brought  from  China  (in  the  9th  cent.)  by  Kobd- 
Daishi,  Pictures  purporting  to  be  like  the  image  are  sold  at 
the  temple  for  1  sen.  At  the  great  annual  festival  (movable 
feast,  usually  Aug.)  many  thousands  of  devotees  visit  the  tem- 
ple, chiefly  at  night.  Each  carries  a  lighted  paper  lantern,  and 
the  procession  as  it  climbs  the  hill  is  strikingly  picturesque. 
Whosoever  ascends  at  this  time  is  supposed  to  acquire  merit 
that  lasts  through  life.  The  return  to  the  hotel  can  be  made 
in  1}  hr.  by  walking  to  the  tram  station  and  boarding  the  car 
there.  The  rikisha  fare  from  the  foot  of  the  hill  to  the  hotel  is 
'60  sen.  A  tramway  similar  to  the  incline  at  Hongkong  is  under 
discussion. 

*Rokkosan  (3050  ft.),  a  popular  hill-station  with  a  good  club, 
golf  links,  a  number  of  besso  (country  villas),  and  sea  views 
perhaps  unrivaled  in  their  beauty  and  extensiveness,  was  es- 
tablished in  1890  by  Mr.  Arthur  H.  Groom  (monument  un- 
veiled in  1912),  and  is  about  6  M.  N.  of  Kobe  (4  M.  beyond 
Mayorsan).  It  is  reached  by  jinriki  to  Gomo  village  (ihr.;  2 
men,  80  sen),  thence  by  ka^o  or  chair  (li  hrs.;  70  sen  for  each 
man)  or  on  foot  (stiflSsh  climb)  in  about  2  hrs.  Horse,  ¥1.30; 
cooUe  for  carrying  luncheon,  etc.,  65  sen.  The  trip  can  be 
planned  to  better  advantage  with  the  assistance  of  the  hotel 
manager,  who  will  arrange  for  a  conveyance.  The  air  is  de- 
lightfully pure  and  the  views  are  inspiring.  Furnished  cot- 
tages can  often  be  rented  for  the  summer  season;  consult  the 
Kobe  newspapers  for  advertisements. 

*Arima  (1400  ft.),  a  popular  resort  4  M.  N.  oiRokkosan  (9  M. 
over  the  hills  from  Kobe),  is  beautifully  situated  amid  pictur- 
esque mts.  and  is  known  for  its  good  hotel  (Arima  Hotel,  ¥5 
a  day  and  upward;  English  spoken;  open  all  the  year);  its 
iron-impregnated  springs  (warm,  steel-blue,  chalybeate  waters; 
odorless,  strongly  saline  and  astringent  to  the  taste) ;  its  good 
baths  (cold  springs  of  colorless  water  impregnated  with  free 
carbonic  acid  and  sulphuretted  hydrogen) ;  its  fine  maples  (in 
autumn),  and  its  Arima  baskets.  The  latter  are  made  (in  nu- 
merous small  home  work-shops)  of  several  varieties  of  bamboo 
groym  in  the  neighborhood  —  chiefly  the  matake  ('real  bam- 
bdo)  and  the  black  variety  known  as  hachiku.  After  being 
carefully  polished  with  a  ai^c\a\  ^\i<ilwr[A\\i\3afcNVi\nity  the 


Kobe  Excursions.       TAKARADZUKA         S7.  Rouie.    629 

finished  product  (of  many  shapes)  is  stained  a  rich  maroon  and 
sold  (many  exported)  at  reasonable  prices.  The  usual  method 
of  reaching  Arima  is  by  train  {Tdkaido  Rly.)  to  (15  M.)  Kcm- 
zahi  Station  (f  hr.;  65  sen),  thence  (over  the  Fukuchiyama 
Line  of  the  Gov't  Rlys.)  to  (12  M.  in  i  hr. ;  53  sen)  Namase  (with 
hot  springs),  whence  it  is  a  beautiful  6  M.  walk  (uphill,  good 
going,  li  hrs.)  through  scenery  which  is  more  European  than 
Japanese.  If  the  traveler  will  write  ahead  or  telephone,  the 
hotel  manager  will  have  a  motor-car  or  a  jinriki  waiting  at  the 
station.  From  Sanda  Station  (10  M.  farther  up  the  rly.  line 
where  travelers  returning  from  Amanofiashidate  Bhould  ^ght), 
the  (6  M.)  road  to  the  hotel  is  flat,  but  is  not  so  wild  or  pic- 
turesque as  that  from  Namase.  There  are  a  number  of  pretty 
waterfalls  and  scores  of  attractive  walks  in  the  neighborhood. 
The  summer  climate  is  cool,  and  the  several  mineral  springs 
are  reputed  to  be  efficacious  in  rheumatic  and  other  ailments. 
—  The  excursion  described  below  can  be  included  in  the  Arima 
trip. 

The  *Takaradzuka  Mineral  Springs  at  Takaradzvkaf  in 
Hyogo-ken,  Settsu  Province,  11  M.  N.  of  Kanzaki  Jet.  (fre- 
quent trains  over  the  Fukuchiyama  Line  of  the  Gov't  Rlys.  in 
}  hr. ;  fare,  48  sen)  and  26  M.  from  Kobe  (total  rly.  fare  ¥1. 13), 
perhaps  rank  highest  of  all  the  important  mineral  springs  of 
Japan.  They  are  possibly  the  best  and  most  favorably  known 
of  any  carbonated  springs  in  the  Far  East,  since  the  exceUent 
Takaradzuka  Tansan  table-water  bottled  there  is  of  world- 
wide repute.  The  charmingly  pictiu*esque  environment  (250 
ft.  above  the  sea),  the  many  bathing-resorts,  and  the  hunting, 
fishing,  and  walking  possible  in  the  immediate  neighborhood, 
combine  to  make  it  an  almost  ideal  resort  •:—  particularly  with 
persons  of  'nerves'  seeking  tranquillity  amid  pleasant  sur- 
roundings. West-bound  travelers  on  the  Tdkaido  Rly.  may, 
by  alighting  at  the  Umeda  Station  at  Osaka  (p.  607),  board  an 
electric  car  (station  near  by)  of  the  OsakorTakaradzuka  (or  the 
Mino-Arima)  line  (cars  every  5  min.  between  5  and  12.30  a.m.) 
and  go  direct  (J  hr.  fare,  20  sen)  to  Takaradzuka  town.  The 
highways  from  Osaka  and  Kobe  are  suitable  for  motor-cars. 
The  picturesque  and  rapidly  growing  town,  with  its  numerous 
inns  and  bath-houses  overlooking  the  brawling  MuJco  River,  is 
a  popular  resort  with  Japanese.  It  is  celebrated  locally  for  its 
palatable  mushrooms,  which  are  gathiered  (in  Oct.)  on  the 
conical  hill  behind  the  Tansan  Springs,  and  shipped  as  far  E. 
as  Yokohama  and  TokyS.  The  pretty  basket-work  in  almost 
endless  variety  on  sale  in  the  local  shops  comes  from  Arima. 
The  big  new  bath-house  (baths  from  5  to  50  sen)  at  the  left  of 
the  rly.  station,  is  operated  by  the  electric  traction  company. 

From  Kanzaki  the  rly.  runs  N.  across  a  rich  and  higmV  cul- 
tivated region  to  3  M.  liami  (known  for  its  fine  safeeV^^^iv^^ 
through  a  smiling  vaUey  where  many  grapcB  ^P«X\i<«tMb  >c^ 


TANSAN  SPRINGS     Kobe  E 

I- Man.  and  peacboB  are  grofro.  The  peach  tiBflai»= — 
««  ■»  ofiw>ert«Je  in  aumrner,  as  each  peaoh  la  uauaUy  done 
una  Bttle  bag  to  protect  if  from  ihe  aun  and  prevent  it  ao- 
wnME  Ike  ooBatiafactory  (to  tlie  native}  ruddy  color.  —  7  M. 
AJak^AB car-afaope, a  power-station  {for the  electnc  line),  and 
onn^Krovca.  At  9  M.iVaiMj/ojno,  there  ia  a  famoua  Buddhist 
C^Me:,  the  Kakayama~deTa,  hoary  with  age,  rich  in  traditions, 
Wkd  31th  on  the  list  of  the  33  holy  placea  sacred  to  Kaxmnort. 
(BeyoDdll  M.  TaJtiira/izuia,  t^eriy.  climbs  into  the  hills  and 
liBveraes  a  fruitful  region  marked  by  extensive  views  and  aweet 
with  wild  flowera.  Namaae,  the  Btation  for  Arima,  la  a  mile 
beyond -1 

The  TAsaAtf  Hotel  (EnKlish  manaRement  and  cooWngj  is 

""      ■   .  up  the  hill  (go  pant  the  bath-houae,  crosa  the  foot- 

and  turn  up  right)  from  the  Takwadzuha  Station,  inn 

me,  flower-emlwwered  garden  whence  there  are  aweep- 

ws  over  the  valley  and  river  to  the  diatant  mta.    Raws 

u.n  ¥5  a  day  and  upward.  Am.  pi.    Rooma  may  be  engaged 

•,   tint  office   of  the  J.  CliSord-Wilkimon   Tanaan  Mineral 

Water  Co.,  Ltd.,  at  S2  Kyo-machi,  Kobe.  The  milk  ia  from 

B  hotel  dairy.   The  atrawberriea  and  other  ground  fruits 

i  v^etablca,  which  grow  ueeirty  all  the  time  in  this  favored 

,  )t,  areenrichedwithbean~cakc  only  (as  a  precaution  against 

typhoid).   The  mineral  water  ia  from  the  Tansan  Springs. 


tftDce  along  the  river-road  from  the  hotel)  on  Uie  farbank  of 
the  turbulent  Mako-gawa  (good  trout^-Sahing  in  May  aod 
Sept.)  —  which  Howe  to  the  sea  between  the  TOkaidO  stalions 
o(  ffishinomiya  and  Kanzaki.  The  water  bubblea  up  in  an  ud- 
varyinB  flow  of  about  700  gallons  an  hr.,  from  the  volcanic 
roek  furming  the  heart  of  the  lofty  hill  which  overlooks  the 
nvcr.  The  deep  well  ia  protected  by  a  granite  lining  and  a 
locked  cover  to  prevent  contamination.  From  this  well  lit 
water  ia  conducted  through  sealed  pipes  to  spotleas  filtas 
(where  the  iron  aalta  are  eliminated)  of  vitiifiei  white  tjlw, 
thenc«  it  flows  by  gravity,  in  a  state  of  crystalline  purity  and 
wlh  a  temperature  of  52^  F.,  to  the  Iwttling  department.  The 
plant  covers  i  acrea,  and  automaUc  machinery  made  upon  » 
ayatem  with  a  scrupulous  regard  for  cleanlinesa,  charges  th( 
— undeflled  water. 
I  TwisAN  Water  as  marketed  (often  called  the  Apolliiiaris  of 
wpan,  and  freely  imitated)  is  of  unusual  purity  and  belongs 
to  the  categury  of  chalybeate  and  carbonated  mineral  watefs. 
■t  eonlains  in  piopeT\ij  ai\MsAjfi^TOViTUaQa,  sodium  and  po- 


Kche  Excursiom.  MINO  PARK  37.  Rotde.    631 

entire  absence  of  nitrites,  organic  matter,  or  bacterial  life. 
—  The  Niwo  Water  is  aperitive,  comes  cold  from  the  hills, 
is  impregnated  with  salt  and  iron,  and  is  taken  internally  for 
rhemnatism  and  allied  disorders.  Baths  of  the  heated  water 
are  to  be  had  in  the  several  establishments  at  Tdkaradzuha> 

Mino  Park,  in  the  picturesque  Minamo  VaUepf  with  its 
magnificent  waterfall  (80  ft.  high),  its  wonderful  maples  (an 
extraordinary  sight  in  Nov.),  and  its  pleasing  environs,  com- 
bine to  form  a  delightful  excursion  (i  hr.  by  tram;  20  sen) 
from  Takaradzvkay  and  should  not  be  missed  —  particularly 
between  Nov.  10  and  20,  when  the  maples  are  in  their  prime. 
[Mino  is  relatively _the  same  distance  from  Osakay  and  it  can 
be  reached  by  the  Osaka-Mino  tramway  in  ^  hr. ;  fare,  15  sen,] 
From  both  places  the  line  traverses  a  productive  country  to 
Ishibaski  Statiqny  where  it  goes  up  the  valley  to  the  park. 
Thousands  of  Osaka  and  K^  people  foregather  here  in  April 
to  see  the  splendid  cherry  blossoms;  in  the  summer  for  the 
coolness  and  beauty  which  the  cascade  imparts;  and  in  autumn 
to  see  the  maples.  Few  spots  in  Japan  present  a  more  wonder- 
ful array  of  color;  there  are  hundreds  of  trees,  many  of  them 
very  old,  and  the  hillsides  fairly  blaze  before  the  leaves  begin 
to  wither.  The  cascade  at  the  top  of  the  valley  and  park  is  the 
objective  point  for  all  visitors.  It  is  somewhat  like  the  splendid 
Yu-no-4akij  in  the  Nikko  highlands,  just  below  Yumoto  Lake. 
The  temple  a  short  distance  beyond  is  uninteresting. 

Suma,  or  Suma-no-Ura  (4  M.),  Shio^  (6  M.),  and  Maiko 
(9  M.),  all  popular  and  attractive  bathing-resorts  W.  of  Kobe 
(main  line  of  the  Sanyo  Rly.f  and  the  electric  trolley),  on  the 
beautiful  shore  of  the  Inland  Sea,  possess  fine  shingly  beaches 
(the  delight  of  children),  lovely  sea  views  and  a  charm  which 
has  been  the  theme  of  native  poets  for  ages.  A  day  can  be  spent 
very  pleasantly  visiting  the  three  places.  _Awaji  Island  is  visi- 
ble across  the  narrow  strait;  the  Bay  of  Osaka  lies  at  the  feft, 
and  the  blue  Harima  Nada  at  the  right.  Many  fishing-boats 
dot  the  placid  waters,  and  long  nets  filled  with  silvery  fish  are 
often  hauled  up  on  the  sandy  shore.  The  sea-bathing  is  excel- 
lent and  safe,  with  no  heavy  ground-swell  or  treacherous  un- 
dertow. Many  Kobe  residents  own  summer  villas  in  Shioya. 
Shioya  Hotels  from  ¥6  a  day.  Am.  pi. ;  for  2  persons  in  the  same 
room,  ¥10;  per  week,  ¥50,  and  ¥60;  per  month,  ¥130,  and 
¥225  respectively;  children  under  8  yra.  of  age,  half  rates. 
There  are  boating,  bathing,  fishing,  tennis,  cool  breezes,  and  a 
permanent  charm.  Maiko^  with  its  fantasticpine  trees  knee- 
deep  in  the  sand,  is  exceptionally  enticing.  The  name  Maiko- 
no-Hama,  or  'Beach  of  the  Dancing  Girl/  is  apnUsd  \x^  '^ 
because  of  a  curious  optical  allusion  created  xiiAet  eecXsas^ 

'  The  word  Tanaan  naeoDB  carbooio  add.  SefciCanmn  iB  cvxboViA  mdk^^^a^ 
Tansan-ffosu  ia  carbonic  Bcid  gaa,    roAaradcuJba,  or  TafcarorSulM/m  «>».  V^ 
meaa  precioua  plaee,  bmee,  by  induotion.  city  oi  lkea\t;b. 


632    Rte.38.    KOBE  TO  SHIMONOSEKI  NanOo. 

atmospheric  conditions:  at  such  times  the  flying  veil  of  sand 
makes  the  bizarre  old  trees  with  their  wide  outstretched  arms 
look  like  whirling  dervishes.  Delicious  peaches  are. grown  in 
the  vicinity  of  Sunuij  near  which  (in  a  valley  called  Ichx-no- 
tanij  occurred  the  historic  incident  in  the  life  of  Kumagaya 
Naozanef  referred  to  at  p.  441. 

Awaji  Shima  (sometimes  called  by  its  Chinese  name, 
Tan8hu)y  the  largest  island  of  the  Inland  Sea  (30  M.  N.  and 
S.;  14  M.  broad  at  its  S.  part;  area,  217  sq.  M.))  is  a  mountain- 
ous region  (highest  point  1955  ft.)  E.  df  Harima  Nada  and  W. 
of  Osaka  Bay^  rarely  visited  by  tourists.  The  scenery  differs 
in  no  way  from  that  of  the  main  island,  and  the  towns  offer 
no  attractions.  Awaji  is  of  historic  interest  to  Japanese, 
whose  mythology  designates  it  as  the  first  land  created  by  their 
supposed  divine  ancestors,  Izanagi  and  Izanami.  Mail  steam- 
ers leave  Kobe  daily  (transit  about  2  hrs.)  and  touch  at  the 
uninteresting  ports  of  Kariyay  Shizuhi^  SumotOy  etc.  Sumoto, 
the  chief  town  (and  capital)  on  the  E.  coast,  with  8000  inhabs. 
(Inn:  N(d)etd,  ¥2),  stands  amid  mildly  picturesque  surround- 
ings. Iwaya,  at  the  N.  end  of  the  island,  is  about  2  M.  (ferry 
across  the  Akaahi  no  Seto)  from  Akashi  Statioriy  on  the  Sanyo 
Ely.  The  mts.  on  the  island  are  composed  of  diorite,  gneiss, 
granite,  and  old  schists,  and  are  wooded  to  their  summits.  Well- 
tilled  farms  stretch  away  from  their  lower  flanks.  Between  the 
outermost  rocks  on  the  S.W.  coast  of  the  island  and  the  adja- 
cent Shikoku  is  the  celebrated  Naruto  Whirlpool  (NariUoSuido), 
a  sort  of  Japanese  Charybdis  invested  with  all  manner  of  ter- 
rors. When  the  tide  from  the  Pacific  Ocean  rushes  in  through 
the  Kii  Channel  and  into  the  (600  yds.  wide)  NariUo  Channel 
(which  links  it  to  the  Inland  Sea),  the  resistance  offered  by 
the  outflowing  water  (48  fathoms  deep),  is  such  that  a  rather 
formidable  whirlpool  (about  60  ft.  in  diameter)  is  created,  with 
a  g|eat  roaring  and  churning  of  the  opposing  forces.  During 
the  spring  tides,  when  the  stream  is  running  at  maximum 
strength,  the  average  speed  is  9-11  knots.  When  the  waters 
of  the  Inland  Sea  prevail,  the  race  sets  back  into  the  Pacific. 
Travelers  may  wish  to  remember  that  both  the  Naruto  Chan- 
nel and  the  straits  about  Tomogashima  Island  (Yura  Strait^  on 
the  S.E.  side  of  Awaji)  lie  within  the  fortified  zone,  and  that 
photographing  and  sketching  are  prohibited  by  the  War  De- 
partment. ' 

38.  From  Kobe  vift  Himeji,  Okayama  (Shikoku  Island), 
Hiroshima,  and  Miyajima  to  ShimonoseM. 

Sanyo  Main  Line  of  the  Imperial  Government  Railways. 

To  Shimonoaeki,  329  M.  Th6  (extra  fare)  express  trains  (comp.  p.  Ixxxii) 

make  the  run  in  about  10  hrs.;;the  local  trains  (fare,  ¥8.73,  Ist  el.;  ¥5.24, 

2d  cL)  in  about  14.   After  \eayiii%  Settsu,  the  line  traverses  the  provinces 

of  Harima,  Bizen,  Biichu,  Bingo,  Aki,  Suwo,  «lxv^  w«a  ^o  the  extreme  W. 


The  Castle.  HIMEJI  $8.  Route    633 

• 

point  of  Nagato,  through  a  beautiful  country  contiguous  to  the  Inland  Sea 
(entrancing  views  from  the  left  aide  of  the  cars) .  There  is  an  excellent  rly. 
hotel  at  the  Shimonoaekt  Station.  Connections  are  made  here  with  swift  aind 
commodious  gov't  steamships  for  Korean  ports,  and  points  (ferry  service)  in 
Kyushu.  The  docks  are  extensions  of  the  rly.  platform,  and  luggage-porters 
are  in  readiness  to  assist  passengers  and  to  see  them  safely  on  their  way 
without  friction,  confusion,  or  delay.  For  the  convenience  of  travelers  cer- 
tain of  the  express  trains  (consult  the  rly.  folder)  stop  at  the  small  station  of 
Miyajima,  where  ferry-boats  are  in  waiting  to  conduct  them  across  the  nar- 
row (15  min.)  strait  to  Mitajima  Island.  A  flying  visit  of  2-3  hrs.  between 
trains  is  ample  for  this  lesser  of  the  'Three  Great  Sights  '  —  the  attrac- 
tions of  which  are  imaginative  rather  than  material. 

From  Kobe  the  train  nms  toward  the  W.  along  the  shore  of 
the  Inland  Sea,  passing  through  the  attractive  seaside  resorts 
of  Sumaj  Shioyaj  and  Maiko.  The  giant  pine  trees  which 
fringe  the  shore,  the  calm  sea  flecked  with  white-sailed  junks, 
and  the  distant  views  of  Awaji  Island  are  alluring.  12  M. 
Akashi,  opposite  Akashi  Strait^  with  a  Shinto  temple  to  the 
memory  of  Kahinomoto-no-HitomarUf  a  7th-cent.  poet,  is  the 
meridian  from  which  time  is  reckoned  in  Japan.  Storm-signaJs 
are  shown  to  mariners  entering  the  E.  end  of  the  Inland  Sea, 
which  terminates  here  and  is  separated  from  Osaka  Bay,  the 
Kii  Channel,  and  the  Pacific  Ocean  by  the  pear-shaped  island 
of  Awaji.  An  excellent  automobile  road  flanks  the  sea  and 
affords  motorists  views  of  unexampled  beauty.  The  train  runs 
at  good  speed  over  the  broad  plain  to  24  M.  Kakogawa,  near 
the  river  of  the  same  name.  The  numerous  well-sweeps  which 
dot  the  country  indicate  an  abundance  of  water  below  the 
surface.  Many  of  the  humble  dwellings  have  the  ridges  of  the 
thatched  roof  held  down  by  bundles  of  straw  which  straddle 
them  and  impart  a  decorative  effect.  In  the  yard  of  the  (2  M.) 
Takasago  Shrine  is  a  giant  tree  celebrated  locally  as  the  Aioi- 
no-matsu,  or  *  Companion  Pine,'  which  is  said  to  ambiparous, 
wherefore  the  leaves  are  used  at  weddings  as  emblems  of  mari- 
tal felicity.  The  motive  is  frequently  portrayed  in  art,  in  the 
forms  of  an  aged  man  and  woman  raJdng  up  pine  needles  on  a 
seashore  fringed  with  pine  trees.  The  region  roundabout  is 
classic  ground  to  Japanese,  and  constitutes  what  is  termed  the 
Ilarinia  Meguri,  or  '  Circuit  of  Harima'  Province.  It  has  been 
sung  and  written  of  since  time  out  of  mind,  and  the  charms  of 
the  pine-clad  coast  are  favorite  themes  of  writers  of  poetry  and 
historical  romances.  —  26  M.  Hoden  is  known  for  its  (2  M.) 
small  caves  (Ishi-no-Hdden)  cut  (23  by  26  ft.)  from  the  soft 
rock  and  believed  to  date  from  remote  times. 

34  M.  Himeji  (Inn:  AkamaJtsu,  ¥3)^  capital  of  Harima  Pro- 
vince with  42,000  inhabs.;  a  thrivmg  place  on  the  right 
bank  of  the  lower  Ichv-kawa,  is  noted  for  its  production  of 
stamped  leather  and  cotton  goods,  and  for  its  fine  old  dnsto* 
ried  antique  donjon,  called  Rojd,  or  *  Snowy  Heron  Castle' 
—  a  gleaming  white  fortress  (7  min.  walk  from  the  statioa) 
erect^  in  1340  by  Akamaisu  Sadanori.   Ftobi  \)^  lus^^  '^ 


634    RfnOe  S8.  OKATAMA  Crow  CasOe. 

passed  to  the  hands  of  Toyoiomi  Hideyoshi,  who  rebuilt  and 
enlarged  the  keep  in  1577  and  added  30  turrets.  After  the 
decisive  battle  of  Sekigahara,  Tokugawa  leyasu  established 
Ikeda  Temmaaa  here,  and  he  changed  the  name  of  Himeyama 
to  Himeji,  A  long  line  of  daimyds  occupied  the'  castle  blefore 
the  Restoration,  when  it  passed  to  the  Gov't  to  be  used  as 
headq[uarters  for  one  of  the  divisions  of  the  main  army.  The 
beautiful  park  which  surrounds  it,  and  which  is  known  as 
Himeyama f  is  noted  for  its  display  of  wistaria  (in  May).  Per- 
mits easilv  obtainable  through  one's  consul.  Photographing 
and  sketching  forbidden.  The  structure  is  an  excellently  pre- 
served relic  of  feudal  days,  but  is  not  as  attractive  as  t£at  at 
Na>goya,  Shoshorzan,  a  thickly  wooded  hill  (1300  ft.)  4i  M. 
to  the  N.,  is  revered  by  the  natives  because  of  its  Buddhist 
temple,  the  Enkyd-jij  founded  in  966  by  the  bonze  ShdkUf  and 
consecrated  to  Kvxmnon.  Several  of  the  early  emperors  made 
pilgrimages  to  it,  and  the  forces  under  Ashikaga  Takavji  and 
1  skidd  Yorifusa  fought  a  battle  near  it  in  1351.  Shihimaf  2  M. 
to  the  S.,  the  seaside  terminus  of  the  Bantan  Rly.,  is  a  popu- 
lar bathing-resort. 

The  Himsji-Wadataha  section  of  the  Bantan  Rlt.  leads  hence  N.  to  (40 
M.)  Wadayama  (several  trains  daily;  fare,  ¥1.68)  and  forms  a  link  between 
the  Tokaidd  and  the  Japan  Sea.   (See  Rte.  31.) 

The  white  castle  towering  above  its  surroundings  makes  a 
fine  picture  in  the  landscape  at  the  right  as  the  train  contin- 
ues W.  from  Himeji.  The  closed  boats  anchored  in  the  Hayor 
shid/Or-gawa  beyond  Aboshi  Station  are  primitive  automatic 
rice-hulling  mills.  47  M.  Naba  is  the  point  of  departure  for 
thejiistoric  seacoast  town  (8  M.  S.)  of  Akoy  known  as  the  home 
of  Oishi  Kuranosukcj  chief  of  the  Forty-Seven  Ronin  retainers 
of  Asano  Takumi,  whose  tragic  history  is  referred  to  at  p.  186. 
—  The  hills  through  which  the  rly.  leads  are  terraced  far  up 
their  sides  and  they  recall  certain  vistas  in  Korea.  Many  of 
the  little  dwellings  tucked  away  in  the  sheltered  valleys  have 
picturesque  roofs  that  are  covered  half  with  tiles  and  half  with 
thatch. 

89  M.  Okayama  (Inn:  Miyoshv-kadaUy  5  min.  left  of  the  sta- 
tion; jinriki,  10  sen;  pretentious;  meals  from  ¥1.50,  and  lodg- 
ing from  ¥2  and  upward;  several  cheaper  inns  opposite,  and 
a  restaurant  in  the  station),  capital  of  Bizen  Province  and  of 
Okayamorkenj  with  94,000  inhabs.,  was  formerly  the  castle 
town  of  Ikedaj  a  rich  and  powerful  daimyo  whose  well-pre- 
served fortress  (bmlt  by  Bizen-no-Kami  Hunetaka  in  the  16th 
cent.)  still  stands  and  is  called  *Crow  Castle'  because  of  its 
somber  color.  Convinced  of  the  logic  of  Bvlwer^s  dictum  re- 
ferring to  the  pen  and  the  sword,  tne  local  authorities  have 
boua^  the  Fifth  Higher  School  in  the  massive  structure,  and 
have  converted  the  park  at  its  base  (1  M.  from  the  station, 
20  min.;  jinriki,  20  sen)  Vnlo  s^ \wkiiAawcv& \^^^^^^  garden 


Kotohira,  SHIKOKU  ISLAND       38,  Rauie.    636   . 

(Korakven)  with  22  acresi  tea-houses,  views,  etc.  The  Astihi- 
gawa  flanks  it  on  one  side  and  adds  considerably  to  its  pictur- 
esqueness.  One  of  the  many  tame  cranes  which  wander  at  will 
beneath  the  fine  wistaria  arbors  and  the  splendid  old  cherry 
and  maple  trees,  is  said  to  be  more  than  200  yrs.  old.  Figured 
straw  matting  (hanamiLshiro)  is  one  of  the  specialties  of  the 
place;  others  are  delicious  peaches  sold  in  fanc^  baskets,  and 
native  sweetmeats  packed  in  abnormally  thick  boxes  and 
hawked  about  the  rly.  station  platform.  The  bento  sold  here 
is  better  than  that  at  certain  other  stations  on  the  line. 

The  Chugoku  Rly.  Cg.'s  line  runs  N.  from  Okayama 
through  several  unimportant  towns  to  35  M.  (¥1.07)  Tsuyama 
(pop.  15,000),  an  ancient  castle  town  in  Mimisaka  Province. 
Another  line  trends  N.W.  to  8J  M.  Inariyamaf  and  13  M. 
TcUaif  in  Bitchu  Province. 

Okatama  is  one  of  the  best  points  from  which  to  visit  the 
near-by  Island  of  Shikoku,  ynth.  Kotohira  and  its  much  vener- 
ated Kompira  Shrine.  The  island  as  a  whole  is  off  the  beaten 
track  of  travel,  and  it  differs  so  little  from  other  and  more 
accessible  places  that  foreigners  seldom  feel  repaid  for  a  trip 
through  it.  Hurried  travelers  concerned  with  the  Kompira 
Shrine  can  leave  luggage  in  the  inn  at  Okayama^  board  an  early 
morning  train,  and  be  back  in  the  evening. 

Trains  leave  the  main  line  station  in  Okayama  at  frequent  intervals  and 
arrive  at  20  M.  Uno  (fare,  88  sen)  in  about  1  hr.  The  boat-landing  is  at  the 
station.  Commodious  steamers  (Imp.  Gov't  BXy.)  make  the  trip  (ffu-e,  85 
sen)  across  the  narrow  arm  of  the  Inland  Sea  in  about  1  hr.,  passing  the  pic- 
turesque Shodo  Island  (12  M.  long,  7  wide;  highest  peak,  2697  ft.)  and  land- 
ing at  Takamatsu,  an  old  castle  town  (pop.  43,000)  m  Sanuki  Province  (Kof 
gawa-ken).  The  traveler  is  reminded  that,  although  the  landlocked  water 
may  be  smooth  in  the  morning,  a  stiffish  wind  loses  no  time  in  kicking  up  a 
coarse  sea  which  may  prove  imsettlin^  by  afternoon.  The  Kompira  Shrine 
contains  no  works  of  art,  but  its  magnificent  situation  recommends  it.  Two 
hrs.  are  sufficient  to  view  it  and  its  environment  after  reaching  Kotohira. 

The  Takamatsu  Castle,  the  most  conspicuous  object  at 
the  left  of  the  dock,  was  erected  in  1335  by  Yorishige,  a  some- 
time governor  of  the  province;  it  is  now  in  a  ruinous  state,  but 
the  aforetime  castle  park  is  perhaps  finer  than  it  was  originally, 
for  it  has  been  deftly  converted  into  a  landscape  garden  (called 
Kuri-bayashi  Koen)  of  such  imusual  charm  that  the  traveler 
with  time  to  spare  will  feel  repaid  for  seeing  it.  The  town  is 
prettily  situated  on  the  sea.  Yashimaj  the  flat-topped  hill  at  the 
E.,  has  been  laid  out  as  a  popular  resort. 

The  rly.  (several  trains  daily)  runs  S.W.  along  the  shore  through  a  num- 
ber of  charmingly  situated  but  monotonously  similar  little  towns  whose 
chief  industry  is  the  extraction  (in  a  crude  way)  of  salt  from  the  ocean's  brine. 
Miles  of  salt-pits  line  the  beach,  while  pine-clad  hills  and  rice-fields  stretch 
away  inland.  The  numerous  palmettoes,  persimmon  trees,  vineyardB  (no 
wine) ,  and  omnipresent  flowers  su|Egeet  a  benign  climate.  The  excellent  mar 
cadam  pike  which  flanks  the  rly.  is  suitable  for  motorcars.  20  M.  Todoteu 
(Inn:  Hanabishi,  ¥2.50)  is  in  almost  hourly  touch  (steamers  oi  ^bib  OmImi 
Shosen  Kaisha)  with  several  of  the  mainland  towiia  (,to  ^\  'ML.OnMWM^^ 


636    Route  38.        8HIE0EU  ISLAND     Kompira  Shrine. 

¥1.60).  From  this  point  the  rly.  turna  S.E.and  runs  along  the  skirt  of  a 
range  of  bulky  and  densely  wooded  hills  to  its  terminus  at  28  M.  Kotohinu 

A  number  of  inns  cluster  about  the  station  and  cater  to  the 
hordes  of  native  visitors  to  the  town  and  its  sacred  fanes. 
To  reach  the  latter  one  turns  up  at  the  right  and  proceeds 
(5  min.)  along  the  picturesque  and  cheerful  main  st.  to  a  con- 
verging St.  which  ascends  (right)  between  lines  of  balconied 
inns  (Tororya,  Bizen-ya,  etc.),  and  beneath  (in  the  summer) 
awnings  which  impart  an  Oriental  aspect  to  it.   Here  cluster 
scores  of  tiny  shops  with  raucous  barkers  who  essay  to  sell  one 
all  manner  of  gewgaws  relating  to  the  temples  and  their  cult. 
Among  the  rubbishy  souvenirs  foreigners  are  pleadinely  re- 
quested to  take  home  with  them  are  trumpet-shells  and  other 
^onbols  of  Triton^  chop-sticks   made   of   the  quasi-sacred 
Chyera  japonicaj  pilgrims'  staffs,  gourds,  rosaries,  lacquered 
trays  adorned  with  the  temple  crests,  and  potent'  charms 
{0*Jvda)  consisting  of  Certain  mt.  herbs  gathered  and  blessed 
by  the  priests.   Nmety  steps  lead  up  from  the  street  to  the 
first  ^ate,  which  is  in  the  form  of  a  rusted  iron  torii  covered 
with  ideographic  texts.  Hence  a  number  of  long,  sloping  land- 
ings and  238  steps  conduct  one  to  the  Daimony  or  Great 
Gate  (great  in  name  only) ;  252  more  to  the  Asahi  no  Yashiro 
(the  one-time  Kondo,  or  Golden  Hall  of  the  Buddhists) ;  and 
159  thence  to  the  main  temple.   Handsome  bronze  and  stone 
lanterns  flank  the  granite-flagged  ascent,  and  lofty  trees  over- 
shadow it;  the  wood  and  stone  tablets  bear  names  of  generous 
givers  to  the  temple  organization.  The  Asahi  no  Yashiro  has 
some  fairly  good  wood-carvings  in  conventional  Buddhist  de- 
signs, with  some  sculptured  wood  doors  portraying  Chinese 
sages  and  Imperial  chrysanthemums.  The  last  44  steps  leading 
to  the  upper  terrace  are  steepest  of  all.   Here  one  may  often 
see  poor  deluded  old  men  and  women,  half  naked  and  gasping 
for  breath,  running  up  and  down  the  flight  and  performing 
(for  the  alleged  merit  secured)  the  rite  called  Hyaku-do.   The 
wooden  tickets,  strung  on  the  wires  attached  to  the  stone  monu- 
ment (with  a  turtle  base)  at  the  left  of  one  of  the  landings,  are 
used  as  markers  in  this  laborious  exercise.  Formerly  when  hot 
rice-dumplings  were  offered  as  food  to  the  bizarre  bronze  horse 
near  the  Ex-voto  Hall,  devotees  were  wont  to  scramble  for  the 
grains  scattered  about  and  gulp  them  down  in  the  beUef  that 
O'Shaka-sama  noted  it  and  praised  them  therefor. 

The  Main  Temple  (no  fees)  stands  on  an  elevated  terrace 
cut  from  the  beautifully  wooded  side  of  Zozusanf  and  is 
flanked  by  some  splendid  old  trees  and  several  auxiliary 
shrines.  It  is  the  holiest  shrine  in  Shikokuj  and  is  said  to  have 
been  founded  in  the  9th  cent,  by  the  illustrious  Kobo-Daishi 
(oi  Koyorsan  fame)  soon  after  his  return  from  China;  and 
later  to  have  served  aB  the  model  for  many  other  fanes  in 
di^erent    parts    of   3apwi.  ^\\3tv  >i)aa  ^SaR&tAblishment  <rf 


The  Museum.  SHIKOKU  ISLAND      38.  Route,    637 

Buddhism,  the  coarse  idolatry  practiced  here  by  certain  of  the 
zealous  and  fanatical  bonzes  was  replaced  by  the  Shinto  tenets. 
That  these  have  not  completely  effaced  the  Buddhist  influence 
is  manifested  in  the  structure  itself  —  a  feUcitous  blend  of 
both  styles  of  architecture,  with  the  interior  fitments  pertain- 
ing to  the  Shinto f  and  the  architectural  enrichments  inseparably 
associated  with  Buddhism.  The  prettily  paneled  ceiling  done 
in  gold  lacquer  and  cherry  blooms  is  worth  looking  at.  To  this 
shrine  come  upward  of  800,000  pilgrims  each  year,  most  of 
them,  be  it  said  in  passing,  to  worship  the  tutelar  Kompira 
(Sanskrit f  Kumhhira)^  a  redoubtable  Buddhist  divinity  who  is 
supposed  to  protect  seamen  and  travelers,  associated  in  the 
native  mind  with  Neptune,  and  about  whose  antecedents  little 
seems  to  be  known. 

The  panorama  from  the  terrace  is  superb,  embracing  as  it 
does  a  score  of  villages,  hundreds  of  square  miles  of  the  lovely 
Inland  Sea,  range  after  range  of  blue  mts.  and  league  upon 
league  of  cultivated  valley  and  plain.  The  conical  (and  vol- 
canic) mt.  in  the  near  foreground,  looking  very  much  like  an 
exaggerated  sombrero^  is  Shirane-^mine,  often  referred  to  as 
the  Sanuhi  Fuji.  Beside  the  main  temple  there  is  little  to  see. 
The  Ex-voto  Hall,  a  Buddhist  institution,  contains  a  lot  of  ma- 
rine trumpery,  some  models  of  boats,  many  archaistic  symbols 
of  Poseidon,  some  distressing  pictiu-es,  and  a  faded  old  Htho- 
graph  of  the  Brooklyn  Bridge!  The  bronze  horse  which  stands 
near,  and  has  a  tail  like  a  pleated  skirt,  has  been  so  rubbed  by 
the  credulous  and  ailing  that  its  nose  is  half  gone.  —  On  the 
descent  it  is  worth  while  to  inspect  (left  of  the  path,  in  a  pretty 
park  with  a  live  bear) 

The  Museum,  or  Homotsu-kwan  ('Treasiu-e  House'),  which 
contains  (admission,  5  sen)  a  collection  of  canonical  books, 
some  pictures,  a  landscape  painting  by  Kano  TanyU,  a  harp 
upward  of  a  thousand  yrs.  old,  some  silks,  swords,  lacquered 
boxes,  fine  screens,  sculptures,  and  what-not.  —  The  most 
important  of  the  temple  festivals  falls  upon  Sept.  8-10,  and 
Oct.  10-11.  Lesser  ones  occur  on  the  10th  of  each  month. 

Shikoku  Island,  or  Four  Lands,  —  so-called  because  it  comprises  the  4  old 
provinces  (of  the  Nankaido^  or  South  Sea  Road)  of  Sanvki,  Atoa^  Tosa,  and 
lyo,  and  the  4  newer  prefectures  of  Kagawa,  Tokushima,  Kochi,  and  Ehime 
—  has  4  million  inhabs.,  and  with  its  outlying  islets  is  one  of  the  largest 
(6854  sq.  M.)  of  the  Japanese  group.  It  is  bounded  on  the  N.  by  the  Inland 
Sea;  on  the  E.  by  the  Kii  Channel;  on  the  W.  by  the  Bungo  Channel;  and  on 
the  S.  by  the  Pacific  Ocean.  The  warm  Kuro-shiwo  tempers  the  climate  and 
gives  it  sub-tropical  vegetation.  Though  moimtainous,  the  island  is  densely 
populated,  with  5  cities,  745  villages,  and  66  hamlets.  Magnificent  forest* 
of  beech,  oak,  horse-chestnut,  maple,  ash,  camphor,  magnolia,  and  other  de- 
ciduous aiid  evergreen  trees  deck  the  mt.  slopes,  from  which  numerous 
streams  run  down  to  irrigate  the  rice-plains.  The  longest  river,  the  Yoahino 
(100  M.),  is  often  called  the  ShikokurSaburd  in  the  belief  that  it  is  the  3d 
longest  in  the  Empire.  The  paper-mulberry  and  the  vegetable-wax  treM  are 
culuvated  on  a  large  scale;  the  inner  bark  of  the  former  liot  oid\v  vctrndSouL 
for  the  considerabte  paper  industry  (^  Toaa^  but  also  ioT  tViQ  AqnvMiA%  Ssx 


638    Kte.SS.  SHIKOKU  ISLAND 


lApuii,  Tbera  are  wu-blDBcbing  n 

Ld  Ttna.  vliich  ia  aim  Dated  (oritsfiuBiiaiiiphor.  .    . 
"-  •  -  ^  -     '    -"iB  ^a1Da^kab^^  JoiijE-taii«l  ic 


,   IndigD  ai 


It  tobacco  iu«  pinduged  in 


TheBfflWHiCopPES  MiNU,  nsar  the  aummil  of  a  iiit. -1000  ft.  aboven 

th>  neb  and  poiroiful  Samilamo  famiiy.  bas  an  anDual  output  ot  200.0 
toEBi  of  otB  and  0500  toD3  o[  rofiood  copper,  and  ia  one  of  the  most  importu 
in  Japan-  Tbe  gooLoffica]  fonnation  of  tbe  miae  (wbonun  2300  iiieu  bta  st 
pli^BdJ  Ifl  Dip'&talline  Hhiat,  oodhu^uik  of  EjuBTti-«Hriidtes  aad  ehlor-ite  roc 

'^-—'nasn  average  011%  ocppoi.   The  nutpuCii  lent  1^  private  rly.  lov 
■hymihama,  Ihence  by  Sghter  la  (Si  M.)  Shiiaia)ima.  whore  the  meti 


uear-br  JVti'iama,  IheaEe  by  Iightet 
lurgloJ  worlu  (with  1*00  em^oyw 


lo  CopPHB  WoHiu  at  Owfaj.  —  ADlimooy  (ArM- 


mi  —  A  Domipbl(ui  of  the  Eugliah  woni)  ia  mined  in  Saiid,  Jyo 

TalauhSna  (Inn:  Hirasama^S.Va).  the  ohiet  oily  (pop.  eS, 

■"  ■     ■ "     1-*™.  fMM  tha  Kii  CHannil  at  the  S£^ 

;SI  M.l  Kobe  Hare,  ¥1.  SO),  and  ia  ItoW 


ilh  (SI  M.l  Kobe  (tan.  ¥1.  S 
,e  M.)  /Wa.  wbU  tiDOWD  for 


— JBj.the  ohiefoilyC„r 

Previnoo.and  mpitaiof  Toku^ima^im.fc^m^theKiiCHaniMlttibeSS^ 

by  rly.  (opened  in  iei4}wi 

KScHi  (Inn;  Jem-kaim,  ¥3).  (be  osintal  (pop.  39,000)  of  Torn  Provisn 
and  KS^t-ken,  has  the  mini  of  a  eaitie  buiit  by  Yamanoitchi  Karutovtr  in 
IHOO.  Icia  an  attraclivq  port  on  the  3,  aide  of  the  island  (110  M.  from  Eebc. 
daily  etaainar  in  14  hni.;¥5,  iKt  el.}-,  and  be«deA  ji 
auaJity  Ifl  a  mart  fur  the  coral  Eokeci  from  the  eea 

T*«AB*lU(lnQ;Kii«Ai>l.*a,¥3), —  " 

land,  in /bo  I'l — '""  '"" '""  '   " 

rlya.  diverge, ..  _  .  . 
the  mainlaad.  It  1b  the  point  oF  dupurture  far  5  M.  Maituaama  {laa:  Ki- 
doBO.  ¥2.fiO).  eajiitol  (pop.  44,0001  of  /b»  Province  and  BA.nit  Pnleoton. 
The  old  iHBCle.  built  in  in03  by  Kala  ?aihiaii.  is  aim  in  good  repair,  a^ 
during  the  Japan-Ruasia  War  it  furniBbed  quarters  for  several  thouniiJ 
... — .- : Tk ..: 1 ....._  .1, -T  story  i«  one  ot  ih» 


ir-by  suburb  of  flStfo  [Inn:  Furia-ya,  »2.5D). 
boots  gf  Japan  ae  'a  very  notorious  plra,'  ii 
r  apnnga  and  batha,  daid  to  be  effioaoioul  in 


From  Okatama  westward  the  main  line  of  tho  rly.  follom      I 
the  contour  of  the  aeathrougb  Btb'Afi  Province  to  93  M.^tuiON 
(with  a,  shriiiu  founded  by  the  Emim-or  Nintoku,  in  tJie  4th 
L   cent.),  whereitcrossesthe  Kafie-ffauTQ.  TheweU-wnl^redpliuns 
[  liereaboutH  are  carefully  cultivated;  the  peasants  who  work  in 
I  the  fields  discard  all  but  a  loin-cloth  in  Hummer,  and  their 
J  brown  bodioB  —  much  the  color  of  the  soil  —  and  crude  in- 
I  Btrumcnts  of  husbandry  give  them  the  appearance  ot  prehis- 
!  tone  folks.  Considerable  cotton  cloth  is  manufactured  od 
crude  looms,  and  long  strips  are  spread  out  to  bleach  in  the 
Sim.   During  spare  momenta  the  fanners  tread  watci^wheeli 
to  lift  tlie  fluid  on  to  their  fields.   125  M.  Fvkuyanta  (Inn: 
Kiirisadn,  ¥3),  capital  of  Bingo  Province,  with  20,000  inhabs., 
was  formerly  the  seat  of  the  ruling  daimyd.   The  donjon  of  the 
fine  old  bitronial  castle,  upheld  by  massive  atone  wails,  can  still 
iJeseen  (right  ottrBin.1\»^QiaAyiMisto.ViQn.  The  park  now  con- 
stitutes a  public  garden.  TVese\^;\i*\.U^-vBB&oa^^wji| 
/or  native  honae-mata '^a o.  e^Bwoto  o\^^e^t™^,Ba^.^aTOl.J« 


Thte  Senko^ji.  ONOMIGHI  S8.  RoiOb.    699 

from  the  l^t  side  of  the  train  are  beguiling;  scores  of  iHCtur- 
esque  boats  glance  up  and  down  the  blue  waters,  or  careen  lazily 
on  shore.  At  some  of  the  towns  long  arms  of  the  sea  reach  in 
between  lines  of  houses  and  form  fluvial  thoroughfares  along 
which  ply  ancient  craft  loaded  to  the  gunw^e  with  sea- 
weed, fish,  or  other  marine  products.  Crude  salt-pits  for  the 
evaporation  of  sea-water  are  conspicuous  features  along  the 
shore.  The  little  seaport  of  Tomotiu,  at  the  end  of  a  peninsula 
which  juts  seaward,  has  a  daily  steamer  service  to  (20  M.) 
Tadotsu  (Island  of  Shikoku),  fare,  ¥1.50,  and  is  dear  to  the 
internal  econoniy  of  Japanese  because  of  a  celebrated  liquor 
(HOmeishUf  or  'Life-preserving  sake*)  brewed  there. 

138  M.  Onomichi  (Inn:  Hamakiehif  ¥4),  one  of  the  best 
ports  (pop.  31,000)  on  the  Island  Sea,  is  also  one  of  the  most 
picturesque,  (opposite  the  town,  which  stretches  for  a  mile  or 
more  along  the  shore,  is  Muko  Isletj  and  between  them  comes  an 
arm  of  the  sea  which  serves  as  a  thoroughfare  and  an  anchoring- 
ground  for  hundreds  of  queer  craft  engaged  in  the  fishing  or 
canning  trade  of  the  Inland  Sea.  Behind  the  town  and  station 
rise  thickly  wooded  hills  amid  whose  ancient  groves  stand  tem- 
ples from  the  atriums  of  which  ma^iificent  and  far-reaching 
views  are  obtainable.  Of  the  3  most  important  ones,  Senko^, 
dating  from  the  12th  cent.,  is  perhaps  the  best  worth  seeing.  The 
Saikokvrji  is  a  dependency  of  the  Koyasan  Monastery ,  and  is 
a  neglected  reUc  of  the  time  when  all  Buddhist  fanes  drew  fat 
revenues  from  the  State  and  could  afford  to  bedeck  themselves 
with  jewel-studded  idols  and  other  graven  images.  If  the 
traveler  should  happen  to  pass  through  Onomichi  on  a  day 
when  the  sun  shines  brilliantly  and  suggests  the  lower  tropics, 
he  will  be  reminded  strongly  of  Constantinople  and  the  Golden 
Horn.  The  thousands  of  tiled  roofs  glistening  in  the  sun,  the 
calm  blue  water  flecked  with  big  white-sailed  junks,  the  scores 
and  scores  of  lesser  craft,  the  snowy  gulls  that  wheel  and  scream 
and  fish,  and  the  deep,  booming  notes  of  the  temple  bells  ring- 
ing their  muezzin-like  calls  to  the  faithful,  all  combine  to  form 
an  enrapturing  picture.  —  Steamships  leave  daily  for  numer- 
ous Inland  Sea  ports. 

The  Kurihara  River  runs  through  the  town,  and  after  cross- 
ing it  the  train  goes  out  through  the  suburbs  past  many  pic- 
turesque bridges  thrown  across  arms  of  the  sea  which  reach  in 
and  impart  a  Venetian-like  aspect  to  the  place.  When  the  tide 
goes  out  it  strands  many  big  junks,  and  leaves  them  sitting  in 
the  mud  like  helpless  leviathans.  The  rly.  now  follows  the 
sinuosities  of  the  D^ich,  which  hereabout  is  studded  with  salt- 
pits  (shiogama).  Naked  boys  race  along  the  shore  in  the  jovous 
abandon  of  health  and  vouth;  scores  of  clam-dig^ers  of  both 
sexes  search  diligentljr  for  that  modest  and  retiring  bivalve; 
and  the  sails  of  Tnajog  lunks  and  luggers  flash  agoins^.  t\i^  Ytfm- 
zon.  The  mts.  of  Skucoku  rise  through  tVie  \SdaA  a\.  V3Ki^\c&\>« 


640    Route  38.  HIROSHIMA         Miyajima  StaHon. 

liie  salt-pits  continue  beyond  143  M.  Itozaki,  where  there  is    , 
good  berUd  with  fish.  The  Une  now  leaves  the  sea  and  strikes^ 
into  the  hills.  Beyond  Mihara  it  crosses  the  NumaJta  Rioe^^ 
and  enters  the  province  of  Aid,    Many  of  the  houses  hav^^ 
whitewashed  walls,  wood  trimmings  painted  black,  and  brow-:i3 
tiled  roofs.  Beyond  Hongo  the  landscape  becomes  jejune,  aad 
the  stiffish  up-grade,  marked  by  several  tunnels  and  streams, 
rises  to  a  point  943  ft.  (at  Hdchihonmatsu  Station)  before  It 
descends  again  through  several  picturesque  hamlets  to  180  M. 
Kataichi.    Here  a  branch  line  diverges  (left)  to  12  M.  Kvre, 
with  its  big  arsenal  (in  the  war-zone,  no  photographing  or 
sketching)  and  Gov't  Naval  Station.  The  Imperial  Naval  Col-      ■ 
lege  stands  on  the  nearby  (3  M.)  Etajima,  The  sea  hereabout 
is  charming,  with  lovely  views  and  adorable  little  bays. 

190  M.  EQroshima  (Inns:  Mizoguchij  ¥3;  foreign  food,  ¥4; 
Naganumay  semi-foreign,  near  the  station,  ¥4),  capital  of  Hiro- 
shima Prefecture  and  of  Aki  Province,  an  important  metropolis 
(pop.  143,000)  in  lat.  34**  23'  N.  and  long.  132**  27'  E.  of  Green- 
wich, stands  at  the  delta  of  the  multiple-armed  Ota  River  (called 
also  Kabir-  andFafci-flrawa),  and  is  the  largest  city  between  Kobe 
and  Shimonoseki.  The  historic  castle  (tenshu)  visible  from  the 
train  (left;  closed  to  the  public),  was  built  in  1594  by  Mori  Terw 
ntoto.  In  1619  it  passed  into  the  hands  of  Asano  NogaaJdra^ 
whose  descendants  (often  referred  to  as  the  Princes  of  GeishOy 
the  Chinese  name  for  Aki)  ruled  here  as  daimyos  until  the  Re- 
storation. The  late  Mikado  made  the  castle  (now  occupicxi 
by  the  Fifth  Army  Division)  his  headquarters  and  that  of  the 
General  Staff  during  the  Russian  War,  at  which  time  the  city 
was  the  scene  of  continuous  military  activity.  The  Sentai 
Landscape  Garden  (f  M.  from  the  station),  with  10  acres  of 
ground,  a  big  pond,  bridges,  and  handsome  flowering  trees,  is 
one  of  the  '  sights.'  The  view  from  the  house,  known  as  Sei- 
fUteif  is  considered  the  best.  At  Nigitsu  Park  (j  M.,  on  a  hill) 
there  are  fiiie  cherry  and  maple  trees,  tea-houses,  good  views, 
and  a  shrine  called  Nigitsu-jinjay  consecrated  to  the  ances- 
tors of  the  Asano  family  —  whose  crest  of  two  hawks'  feathers 
crossed  show  on  the  enrichments.  Miyajima  and  other  islands 
are  visible  across  the  strait.  Hiroshima  oysters  (kaki)  enjoy 
much  favor;  likewise  the  lacquer,  bronze,  and  other  articles 
made  there. 

A  branch  riy.  runs  hence  (frequent  trains  in  about  20  min.)  to  4  M.  Ujina 
(in  the  war-zone),  with  a-  pretty  harbor  (completed  in  1889;  cost  ¥340,000) 
much  frequented  by  coasting-vessels.  Steamers  of  the  Osaka  Shosen  Kaisha 
run  hence  (several  trips  daily)  to  (7  M.)  Etajima,  (9  M.)  Kure,  thence  to  (4 
hrs.)  Takahama  (¥1 .40)  on  Shikoku  Island. 

191  M.  Yokogawa,  just  across  the  river  from  Hiroshima^  is 
practically  a  suburb.  The  train  continues  over  a  broad  plain 
devoted  to  the  g?reat  ataple^rice;  pretty  views  of  the  sea  at 
the  left.  An  excellent  Ya^vist^  T^"^  ^wi^  tke  sea-wall  for 


\ 


"empU.  MIYAJIMA  ISLAND     S8.  RotOe.    641 

distance  beyond  193  M.  Koi,  Many  paper  umbrellas  are 
hereabout,  and  the  scores  of  them  drying  in  the  house* 
looks  like  big  whirligigs.  Some  fine  old  pine  trees  flank  the 
ay  beyond  197  M.  Itsukaichi,  199  M.  Hatsukaichi^  is  a 
lingly  situated  village  on  the  shore,  with  tiny  harbors 
isty  junks  standing  on  the  sands.  The  old  Sanyodo  runs 
the  beach  and  affords  automobilists  entrancing  views  of 
landnstudded  sea.  The  big  vermilion  torii  visible  across 
looth  water  is  the  outpost  of 

M.  Ifiyajima  (miya,  a  shrine;  jima,  island;  pron.  me" 
ef-mah). 

Fear  (toatashi)  is  2  min.  walk  down  the  wide  st.  G^ft)  from  the  sta- 
[ana-IugaKage  by  station  porter,  10  sen.  Whatever  baggage  the  trav- 
y  not  wish  to  take  with  him  can  be  checked  in  the  station  baggage- 
Praquent  boats  (of  the  Gov't  Rlys.)  make  the  (li  M.)  trip  across 'Uie 
Ono  Seto)  in  15  min.  A  number  of  native  inns  cluster  near  the  oppo- 
idixig.  The  small  Miyajima  Hotel  (formerly  the  Mikado)  ^  with  the 
)f  an  inn  and  the  rates  (usually  from  ¥7  and  upward,  a  day.  Am.  pi.) 
ad  London  hotel,  is  20  min.  walk  (throiigh  the  town  and  the  temple 
i)  at  the  ri^t.  No  rikishas.  A  push-cart  from  the  hotel  for  hand-lug- 

7  ten.  While  the  local  guide  (unnecessary)  will  la^  out  plans  covering 
days,  the  real  sights  of  the  iisland  need  not  detain  the  traveler  more 
I  hour  at  so.  Trips  round  the  island  (in  2  hrs.)  by  the  hotel  laimch 
.2  pers.),  ¥7. 

MnuLf  or  Itaukushima,  an  island  5  M.  long  by  2^  wide  (highest  point, 
.;  at  the  W.  side  of  Hiroshima  Bay,  in  Aki  Province,  owes  its  name 
»MMma-A»m«,  one  of  the  daughters  of  the  mythological  Susano^.  To 
I  her  two  sisters,  Tagori-hime  andTagUsu-hime,  the  island  shrines  are 
<ed.  It  is  also  called  Ongashima  ('Gentle  Island').  The  climate  is 
and  the  hills  profusely  wooded  in  consequence.  Of  the  4000  or  more 
.,  many  are  priests,  fiiBhermen,  innkeepers,  and  image-carvers.  For- 
tiirtiui  and  deaths  on  the  island  were  forbidden,  but  the  exigencies  of 
stances,  and  perchance  20th-cent.  materialism,  have  altered  the  in- 
anotxty  of  the  place,  and  introduced  reasonable  flexibility  in  this  rul- 
'ogs  are  still  forbidden  entrance;  the  many  tame  deer  are  like  those 
&,  and  the  glossy  and  saucy  crows,  at  once  raucous  and  mischievous, 
I  tiiose  of  British  India.  There  are  several  pleasant  walks  in  the  neigh- 
d  of  Miyajima  town,  but  they  differ  in  only  minor  details  from  those 
r  idaoes  in  Japan.  A  host  of  Uttle  shops  with  varying  and  flexible 
ire  features  of  the  settlement;  much  of  tne  woodwork  offered  for  sale 
uoned,  and  is  made  in  small  work-shops  on  the  island.  Steamers  of 
ka  Shosen  Kaisha  leave  Miyajima  daily  for  Kobe,  Beppu,  and  inter- 
3  points. 

Temide  (or  cluster  of  temples^ ,  is  in  the  usual  Shintd  style  with  meager 
lents.  It  stands  partly  on  spiles  driven  into  the  sand  of  the  shore,  and 
le  tide  makes  in  and  submerges  the  underpinning,  it  has  the  appear- 
a  lacustrine  dwelUng  half  afloat.  When  the  tide  runs  out  and  exposes 

8  and  the  vermiculated,  barnacle-covered  legs  of  the  structure,  the 
painfully  unpicturesque.  The  main  temple  dates  perhaps  from  the 

nt.  and  occupies  the  site  of  a  primitive  one  said  to  have  been  erected 
587  by  the  order  of  the  Emperor  Suinin.  The  888  ft.  of  dilapidated 
ns,  14  ft.  wide,  differentiate  it  from  other  Japanese  fanes.  In  one  of 
rtments  is  a  Museum  (5  sen)  with  a  collection  of  trumpery  relics  not 
vasting  time  over.  The  war-pictures  are  manifestlv  from  the  brush 
)cal  house-painter.  The  contribution  box  is  7  ft.  wide  and  15  ft.  long, 
m  a  dime  is  dropped  into  it  gives  back  an  embarrassingly  stin^  echo. 
^Torii  (0-4orii)  in  the  water,  528  ft.  from  the  main  temple,  is  44  ft. 
)  n.  across  at  the  top,  and  was  built  in  1875.  The  tablet  is  in  iihA 
itjng  ol  the  late  Prince  Arisugatoa  Taruhito.  The  ude  BupvotXA  ^oSsk- 
it  from  toe  ouBtomaiy  U>n't  (comp.  p.  clxxxii). 


642    Route  38.  IWAEUNI  Brocade  Bridge. 

The  Hall  ov  a  Thousand  Mats  (Sen^'5-j%ki)  on  an  eminence  near  by»a 
hugC;  quadrangular,  time-stained  structure  open  to  all  the  winds  that  blow, 
is  said  to  have  been  erected  in  1582  by  the  order  of  Toyotomi  Hideyoahi. 
While  certain  of  the  soldiers  destined  for  China  in  1804  were  quartered 
here,  thesr  inscribed  thdr  names  on  their  rice-paddles  and  prayed  to  their 
tutelar  saints  for  victory ;  the  fashion  spread,  and  there  are  now  thousands  of 
them  in  the  big  hall.  Aspirants  for  the  publicity  pay  anywhere  from  10  ten 
to  1  yeiit  according  to  the  size  of  the  paddle,  to  have  their  names  inseribed 
and  exposed  on  one  of  the  pillars. 

From  MiTA jiMA  Station  the  rly.  follows  the  shore  of  the  bay 
through  charming  scenery.  White  sails  dot  the  water,  which 
flashes  and  dimples  in  the  face  of  the  sun,  and  here  and  th^re 
one  sees  fishermen  equipped  with  glass-bottomed  boxes  search- 
ing the  floor  of  the  sea  for  marine  life.  The  old  highway  which 
follows  the  shore  is  like  a  sand-papered  boulevara.  Tiny  bays 
with  crescent  beaches  occur  at  mtervals,  and  when  one  sees  & 
great  junk  beached  on  one  of  them  for  caulking,  and  busy  men 
swarming  about  it,  one  thinks  of  piratical  forays  and  corsairs' 
buried  treasure.  Three  timnels  are  threaded  before  209  M. 
Kuba  is  reached.  Here  the  tea-houses  perched  on  hills  over- 
looking the  sea  recall  Italian  prospects.  The  long  sea-wall  be- 
yond is  significant  of  the  capriciousness  of  the  waters,  which 
roll  in  here  in  an  iminterrupted  sweep  from  the  California  coast. 
212  M.  Otake  is  but  one  of  many  picturesque  villages  that  dot 
the  shore,  and  the  fleet  of  big  junks  witn  bellying  sails  de- 
scried far  out  at  sea  denotes  the  occupation  of  the  people. 
The  region  is  thickly  settled,  and  long  lines  of  houses  make  the 
seashore  their  principal  street.  Cyclopean  stone  walls,  a  tunnel, 
and  many  salt-pits  are  features  of  the  run  to 

215  M.  Iwaktmi  (Inn:  Komeheij  ¥2),  just  over  the  border 
in  Suwo  Province.  The  (3  M.  at  the  ri^t)  town  (pop.  12,000), 
formerly  the  seat  of  a  daimyOf  is  known  for  its  silk,  paper,  mat- 
ting, cotton  cloth,  oranges,  and  excellent  figs,  and  also  for  a 
curious  and  ancient  arched  bridge  known  variously  as  the 
Kintai-kydy  the  Brocade  Bridge  (or  Bridge  of  the  Damask 
Girdle),  and  the  Soroban-bashi  (Abacus-Bridge),  from  its  fan- 
cied resemblance  to  this  reckoning-board. 

The  traveler  can  easily  inspect  the  bridge  between  trains.  An  electric 
trolley  car  leaves  from  the  (right)  station  at  frequent  intervals  and  goes 
(round  trip,  18  sen)  to  the  (15  min.)  center  of  the  town.  Jinrikis  are  in  wait- 
ing at  the  terminal;  to  the  bridge  (5  min.  walk  to  the  right)  and  back,  15  sen. 
The  huge  old  wood,  copper-bronse,  and  rusted  iron  structure  (750  ft.  long), 
said  to  have  been  built  in  1673  by  the  ruling  daimyo,  Kikkawa  Motonobu  (of 
the  Itoakuni  Clan),  has  5  arches  which  rest  upon  4  massive,  knife-edged 

f granite  buttresses  bound  with  lead  bands  and  secured  by  lead  dowels.  The 
ongest  arch  is  133  ft. ;  the  shortest,  108  ft.  The  3  central  spans  are  higher 
than  the  2  end  ones,  which  have  approaches  10  ft.  long.  Anciently  the  cus- 
tom was  to  repair  one  of  these  arches  every  5  yrs.,  so  that  the  bridge  was 
practically  mwie  over  every  quarter  of  a  century.  The  bold  curvature  of 
the  spans  (78  ft.  above  the  river)  makes  their  surfaces  slippery  in  bad  weather, 
and  to  counteract  this  the  cross-boards  form  tiny  steps  or  ridges.  It  is  worth 
while  removing  one's  shoes  and  wading  out  into  the  shallow  river  in  order  to 
inspect  the  curious  architectural  exp^ents  employed  on  the  underside  of 
the  structure.  It  is  a  maze  oi  pesia  and  exude  Joints,  and  looks  very  medi»- 
yaL  The  river  has  its  source  in  N .  Su\d5  ,  wid  «.l\«t  wjswnvb^l several  tribute- 


YAMAGUCHI  88.  Route.    643 

ries  and  paasiiis  through  Itoakunit  it  separates  into  two  branches,  the  InuU8u 
fmd  the  Momenrgatoat  both  of  which  empty  into  Hiroshima  Bay.  At  and 
above  Iwakuni,  it  flows  between  lovely  green  hills,  and  its  mirror-like  sur- 
face reflects  all  the  tints  of  the  rich  foliage  on  their  slopes.  The  name,  iVt- 
thikirgawa  ('Brocade  River ')t  is  also  that  of  a  fine  leather  with  white  figures 
on  a  purple  ground,  used  formerly  by  court  nobles.*  The  bed  of  the  river  be- 
neath the  bridge  has  been  laid  evenly  with  stones,  and  the  remarkably  clear 
and  transparent  water  makes  a  pretty  picture  as  it  ripples  over  them.  The 
bridge  itself  looks  like  a  huge  caterpillar  arcUng  above  the  stream.  The 
shrine  at  the  top  of  the  incline  midway  between  the  car-station  and  the  river 
is  of  no  interest.  The  mt.  visible  toward  the  S.W.  is  Iwakuni-^ama. 

Beyond  Iwdkuni  the  rly.  crosses  first  the  Imaisu-gawaf  then 
the  Momen-gawaf  and  traverses  a  region  marked  by  numerous 
tunnels  and  small  rivers.  The  sea  and  its  fine  flanking  high- 
way remain  in  view  imtil  we  reach  240  M.  Tahuse;  when  the 
line  enters  a  broken  country  with  hills  at  the  right  and  left. 
The  sea  is  glimpsed  again  beyond  246  M.  Shimadaf  where 
crude  water-wheels  on  the  baiui:  of  the  Shimada-gaioa  lift  the 
precious  fluid  and  pour  it  over  the  thirsty  paddy-fields.  Fan- 
tastic pine  trees  fringe  the  shore,  fairy-like  islands  lie  beyond, 
and  an  occasional  white  sail  merges  ghost-like  in  the  haze  of  the 
horizon.  258  M.  Tokuyama,  an  important  port  for  coasting- 
steam^^,  is  a  sort  of  snug  harbor  for  junks  in  the  carr}dng 
trade,  and  between  1634  and  1868  was  the  seat  of  different 
daimyos  of  the  powerful  Mdri  family.  A  big  sea-wall  keeps  the 
ocean  in  check,  and  numerous  salt-pits  supply  the  neighbor- 
hood with  a  very  poor  quality  of  salt.  These  are  dupRcated 
farther  down  the  line,  where  there  are  a  number  of  tunnels. 
Beyond  270  M.  Tonomi  some  highly  fantastic  rocks  are  seen 
near  the  shore.  The  rly.  runs  along  a  terrace  built  up  boldly 
between  the  hills  and  tne  sea,  and  exquisite  seascapes  succeed 
one  another  with  such  unvanring  regularity  that  they  become 
commonplace  by  their  very  frequency. 

275  M.  Mitajiri  (Inn:  Ibcaraf  near  the  station,  ¥2),  with 
many  salt  pans,  is  1  M.  from  the  port  of  the  same  name,  and 
IB  a  shipping-point  for  the  cheap  earthenware  made  in  the 
neighborhood. 

289  M.  Ogori,  is  the  nearest  station  to  (8  M.)  Yamaguchi 
(Inn:  Fujimuraj  ¥3),  capital  of  Yamaguchi  Prefecture  and  one 
of  the  largest  (pop.  22,000)  towns  m  Suwo  Province., The 
castle  at  the  foot  of  Mt.  Konomine  was  built  in  1350  by  Ouchi 
Hiroyo,  governor  of  the  province,  whose  powerful  descend- 
Eints  resided  here  for  two  centuries,  and  in  one  period  of  his- 
tory held  almost  absolute  power  over  seven  provinces.  In  the 
14th  cent,  it  was  a  notorious  rendezvous  for  political  malcon- 
tents from  Kyoto,  and  these  instructed  the  samurai  in  so  many 
forms  of  the  dissipation  then  in  vogue  at  the  capital,  that  ths&v 
ultimately  proved  the  daimyd^s  ruin.    yamagiu:Ki  \b  oi  ''pwsa- 
liar  interest  to  CbnstianB  because  St.  Francis  Xavier  iorasA^ 
7ne  of  bis  Grat  nuBmona  here  in  1551.    EqueatnfiJi  »V;aX»»ft  «*• 
ywe  of  the  early  rulera  adorn  the  pubUo  g,axd«D.  ouKofm*- 


644    Route  38.  SHIMONOSEKI  Practical  Notes. 


yama.  The  hot  spring  of  the  near-by  Ytuia  is  a  favorite 
sort." — Beyond  Ogori  the  riy.  enters  the  province  of  Nagaio 
and  traverses  a  hilly  country  to  307  M.  Asa^  whither  a  branch 
line  runs  N.  to  (13  M.)  Ominef  where  there  is  a  mine  of  smoke- 
less coal  belonging  to  the  Japanese  Navy.  We  now  get  beauti- 
ful glimpses  of  the  sea  (left)  as  the  rly.  approaches  329  M. 
Shimonoseki  (see  below). 

Shimonoseki  ('Lower  Barrier^,  or  Akamagasekiy  an  impor- 
tant port  at  the  W.  entrance  of  the  Inland  Sea,  the  western- 
most point  of  the  main  island  of  Hondo,  in  Nagato  Province, 
Vama^uchi  Prefecture,  with  60,000  inhabs.,  stretches  for  up- 
ward of  2  M.  along  the  base  of  low  but  steepish  fortified  hifls 
in  lat.  33**  58'  N.  and  long.  130°  56'  E.  of  Greenwich.  It  is 
4  M.  from  the  W.  entrance  of  Shimonoseki  Strait;  is  the  W. 
terminus  of  the  Sanyd  Rly.;  the  point  of  embarkation  for  Ko- 
rean ports;  and  it  bears  practically  the  same  relation  to  the 
opposite  port  of  Moji  (pop.  55,000;  in  Buzen  Province;  Ky- 
ushu Island)  that  New  York  does  to  Jersey  City,  or  Aomoriy 
the  nbrtheastemmost  point  of  the  island  (1174  M.  distant) 
does  to  the  adjacent  island  of  Yezo.  Tokyo  is  704  M.  at  the  E.; 
Fusariy  in  Korea,  120  M.  N.W.;  Nagasaki  164  M.  at  the  W., 
and  Kagoshima,  the  terminus  of  the  Kyushu  Rly,  239  M. 
toward  the  S.  It  was  here  that  Mori  Motonori,  the  over- 
zealous  daimyo  of  ChoshU  (Nagato),  ordered  his  people  (in 
1863)  to  fire  on  foreign  vessels  passing  through  the  Shimono- 
seki Strait,  and  this  treatment,  accorded  to  ships  of  the  United 
States,  Holland,  and  France,  resulted  in  the  historical  *  Shi- 
monoseki Expedition,'  —  in  which,  as  a  remonstrance  against 
such  actions,  ships  of  the  three  Powers,  together  with  England, 
sent  a  joint  squadron  which  bombarded  the  forts  and  scat- 
tered their  defenders.  Peace  negotiations  for  the  termination 
of  the  Japan-China  War  were  concluded  here  (in  the  Shunpen- 
rd  Inn)  in  1895  by  Li  Hung  Chang,  on  the  one  side,  and  Count 
lie  Hirobumi  and  ViscourU  Mutsu  Munemitsu  on  the  other. 

The  *Sanyo  Hotel,  at  the  station  and  under  the  rly.  management,  is  clean, 
comfortable,  and  cheap;  good  food;  English  spoken.  Porters  meet  all  trains, 
and  launches  convey  guests  from  ship  to  shore  free.  Telegrams  reserAang 
rooms  will  be  forwarded  free  from  incoming  trains  if  handed  to  the  Train 
Boy.  Laundry  in  the  hotel.  Rooms  only,  from  ¥1  to  ¥7  for  the  night,  and 
from  ¥1.50  to  ¥10  for  24  hrs.,  according  to  location,  etc.  Reduction  for  2 
pers.  in  1  room.  Breakfast,  ¥1;  Tiffin, ¥1.20;  Dinner,  ¥1.50.  On  the  Am. 
pi.,  from  ¥4  a  day  and  upward.  Tea,  20  sen;  sandwiches,  20-40  sen;  baths, 
20  sen. 

Steamships  for  Korea  are  mentioned  in  Rte.  44 ;  for  Formosa  in  Rte.  50. 
Engli^E^>eaking  station  porters  are  always  on  hand  to  take  charge  of  pas- 
sengers and  their  luggage,  and  transfers  are  made  promptly  and  with  a  pleas- 
ing lack  of  friction.  The  big  European  and  American  liners  usually  stop  in 
mid-channel,  where  they  are  met  by  company  launches  and  porters.  The 
ferry-boat  for  Moji  leaves  (20  sen,  1st  cl.:  16  sen,  2d  cl.)  at  frequent  intervals 
from  one  end  of  the  station  platform.  On  the  other  shore  the  Kytlshfi  R^. 
Station  is  5  min.  walk  (luggage  by  porter,^  10  sen).  A  bridge  to  span  the 
strait,  and  to  cost  18  mlmoii  yen, is  under  discussion.  A  useful  time-table  of 
the  Korea  aM  Moji  f erriea,  and  ol  \.t«i»a  oii  \2^^  KyfishU  22^.,  can  be  had 
free  of  the  hotel  manager. 


Dan-fUhura.       SHIMONOSEKI  STRAIT       S8.  RU.    645 

Shimoooaeki  Strait  (or  Nngato  Kaikyd,  the  Van  der  CapeUen  Strait  of 
Europeans),  which  8emu*ates  Hondo  from  KyuahU,  is  the  W.  outlet  of  the 
Inland  Sea,  and  though  but  7  M.  long  between  the  two  islands  it  is  in  reality 
15  M.  long  between  Ainoshima  at  its  W.  and  He-aaki  at  its  E.  entrance. 
The  navi«tble  channel  varies  from  600  to  1400  yds.  in  breadth  with  about 
26  ft.  in  the  fairway  at  low  tide  —  the  average  velocity  of  i^luch  (at  full 
strength  for  3  hrs.  at  each  tide)  is  7i  knots  at  springs  and  4  at  neaps.  Both 
entrances  are  encumbered  with  sand-banks  aiKl  are  mined  in  time  o(  war. 
The  hills  roundabout  are  fortified,  and  the  entire  region,  with  its  signal- 
stations,  beacons,  and  the  like,  is  included  in  the  war-sone  (photographing 
and  sketching  interdicted) . 

A  comprehensive  view  of  the  town,  of  its  flanking  hills,  and 
of  the  W.  entrance  of  the  Inland  Sea  can  be  had  by  proceeding 
along  the  main  st.  (left,  then  right  from  the  station)  and  follow- 
ing the  trend  of  the  shore  (past  the  i  M.  Main  Post-Ofl5ce  and 
the  British  Consulate)  to  (1  M.)  the  Kameyama  Jinja,  a  Shinto 
shrine  on  a  hill  overlooking  the  sea.  Near  the  latter  part  of 
the  stroll  one  passes  through  a  picturesque  arcade  occupied  by 
a  fish- and  fruit-market.  The  shrine  (marked  by  a  wooden 
horse  in  a  cage  near  the  entrance)  is  tinselly,  but  the  view  is 
pleasing. 

Oga's  Villa  (6csso),  1  M.  left  of  the  station,  in  the  E.  quar- 
ter, though  classed  as  one  of  the  'sights,'  will  not  repay  a 
serious  visit.  The  small  house  sits  on  a  hill  commanding  a 
good  view;  labyrinthine  paths  lead  up  from  the  st.  (where 
there  are  some  old  guns  and  ammunition-boxes)  through  flank- 
ing lines  of  a  miscellaneous  and  nonsensical  array  of  junk  of 
almost  every  conceivable  description  —  ship's  paraphernalia 
and  war  materials  predominating.  No  fees  are  exacted,  but 
visitors  are  supposed  to  buy  some  trifling  thing  at  the  little 
refreshment-stand  at  the  summit,  near  the  pagoda.  —  Con- 
spicuous objects  in  some  of  the  local  shops  are  the  curious 
dried  and  polished  crabs  (kani)  of  peculiar  significance  to  one 
versed  in  Japanese  history.  They  are  caught  along  the  neigh- 
boring (1 J  M.  to  the  E.)  Dan-no-wa  (coast)  where  the  great 
Taira  (or  Heike)  Clan  was  exterminated  (April  25, 1185)  by  the 
rival  Minamoto  (or  Gengi)  Clan  led  by  the  mtrepid  Yoshitsune. 
The  larger  variety  of  these  grotesque  creatures  is  called  Taishd- 
gani  ('chieftain-crab'),  or  Tataugashira  C dragon's-head '  or 
*  helmet ') ;  the  smaller  ones,  Heike-gani.  A  legend  is  current 
to  the  effect  that  the  spirits  of  the  drowned  and  slaughtered 
men  of  the  Heike  Clan  assumed  such  shapes,  and  that  '  the 
fury  or  the  agony  of  the  death-struggle  can  still  be  discerned 
in  the  faces  and  upon  the  backs  of  the  crabs.'  Each  is  also 
supposed  to  be  animated  by  the  spirit  of  the  Heike  warrior, 
or Tby  '  ghosts  of  those  great  captains  who  bore  upon  their  hel- 
mets monsters  unknown  to  Western  heraldry,  and  glittering 
horns,  and  dragons  of  gold.' 

Few  incidents  in  Japanese  history  are  more  tragic.  At  the  moment  when 
the  outnumbered  Taira  were  fightmg  with  the  reokleis  ferocity  of  de^Mdr, 
they  were  betrayed  by  one  of  their  c^tains  (Taguehi  Shigeyoahi),  who  sud- 
denjy  hauled  down  the  red  flag  and  went  over  to  the  enemy.  '  This  dfliMAMn. 


(546    IUe.S8.    BATTLE  OF  THE  CIANS      Dan-mhura. 

was  fatal  to  tiie  Taira;  in  leas  than  half  an  hour  thoy  were  overpowciecL 
ro^fdiiwaseagertoimDarttheinteUigeaGeto  Yoahitstme  tiiattheV^E^ 
peror,  Antoku  (7  3m.  old),  his  mother  and  grandmother,  and  many  Tmra 
Court  ladies  were  on  board  one  of  the  vessels,  which  he  now  pointed  out. 
Where  tiie  Emperor  was,  the  Regalia  would  be  sure  to  be;  and  it  was  at  onoe 
ToahUftme'afimei  comnusaion  and  great  anxiety  to  recover  tiie  Regalia  for 
the  Clcnstered  ESmperor  and  the  Sovereign  of  his  choice.  Acooxdingly  the 
main  object  now  became  to  scatter  the  craft  that  surrounded  and  defended 
what  was  practically  the  queen-bee  ship,  and  to  capture  it  and  the  invalu- 
able frdght  it  carried.  Presently  the  Admiral,  Tomomorit  went  on  board 
this  Chinese-rigged  vessel  to  msJke  report  that  the  battle  was  lost  and  that 
if  they  continued  to  live  it  would  only  be  as  the  serfs  and  serving-maids  of 
the  Elastem  boors;  together  with  his  imde  Noriyori  he  threw  himself  ovw- 
board  and  perished.  His  mother,  the  NO-no-amat  or  **  Noble  nun  of  the  M 
rank,"  iCtyomori's  widow,  seised  the  Sacred  Sword  and  plimged  into  the  sea 
with  it,  while  the  Lcuiv  Azwhi  caught  up  the  young  limperor  in  her  anna 
and  fdUowed  her.  The  Emperor's  mother  also  went  overboard,  but  both 
she  and  the  Lady  Azeehi  were  rescued  with  boat-hooks  by  the  Minamoto, 
who  had  meanwhile  completed  the  rout  of  the  Taira.*  The  Taira  had  500 
war-vessels,  the  Afinamoto,  840.  On  a  ledge  of  rocks  in  the  channel  ia  a 
moniunent  commemorating  Antoku  and  the  nun  in'  whose  arms  he  perished. 


V.  KYtSHU  AND  THE  LOOCHOO  AND  GOTO  ISUNDS 

(rvxc^tje  Page 

"^  39.  From  Shimonoseki  (Moji)  vi&  Hakata,  Fukuoka, 

Tosu,  Arita,  and  Sasebo  to  Nagasaki 650 

Imperial  Steel  Works,651;  Fukuoka,  651:  The  Mongol  In- 
vasion, 652 ;  Suga wara  Michisane,  654 ;  Karatsu,  655 ;  Arita 
Porcelain,  656;  Eggshell  Porcelain,  658;  Sasebo,  658. 

40.  Nagasaki  and  its  Environs 659 

History,  662;  Deshima  Island,  663;  Temples,  665;  Osuwa 
Park,  667;  The  Bay,  667;  Walks  to  Urakami,  Mogi,  and 
the  Kwannon  Waterfall,  668.  Excursion  to  Unsen,  669; 
Shimabara,  670. 

41.  From  Moji  (Shimonoseki)  vid  Tosu  and  Kumamoto 
(Aso  Volcano)  to  Kagoshima 671 

Kimiamoto,  672;  Hommy5-jii  673;  Suisenji  Landscape  Gar- 
den, 673;  Ascent  of  Mt.  Kirishima,  675;  Kagoshima,  676; 
Nishi  Hongwanji,  676;  Sakurajima,  678. 

42.  From.  Kumamoto  vid,  Toshita,  AsoHsan,   Takeda, 
and  Oita  to  Beppu 679 

Toshita  and  the  Suganiga  Waterfall,  681 ;  Ascent  of  the  Aso 
Volcano,  681;  B6f%  686;  Takeda.  686;  Oita,  687;  Beppu, 
687;  Hot  Springs  and  Baths,  680. 

43.  From  Beppu  viA  Kokura  to  Moji  (Shimonoseki)  .  692 


Kyushu,  or  Kiushiu  (Nine  Provinces),  the  most  southerly 
of  the  four  large  islands  of  the  main  Empire  of  Japan,  on  the 
Saikaiddy  or  Western  Sea  Road,  with  a  population  of  8  millions 
and  an  area  of  13,770  sq.  M.,  is  one  of  the  richest  of  the  Japan- 
ese possessions.  Known  anciently  as  TsvJctishif  it  has  had  an 
important  bearing  on  the  history  of  Japan.  It  was  on  the 
shore  of  this  island  that  the  forebears  of  the  Japanese  race 
first  set  foot,  thence  proceeded  to  the  main  island  to  dispossess 
the  Ainu  of  their  aboriginal  territory.  Here  the  great  wave  of 
the  Mongol  invasion  broke  in  the  13th  cent.;  here  Mendes 
Pinto  and  his  Portuguese  traders  and  psalm-singing  Jesuits 
first  landed;  to  be  followed  by  the  Dutch  with  many  things 
hitherto  unknown  to  the  Japanese.  It  was  to  KyUshU  that  the 
divine  Ninigi  no  Mikoto  is  supposed  to  have  descended  from 
heaven;  and  from  Kyushu  that  the  emially  improbable  Em- 
press Jingo  is  said  to  have  sailed  to  tne  conquest  of  Korea. 
As  the  first  Europeans  landed  here  in  1542,  it  was  significant 
and  perhaps  natural  that  the  ScUsuma  Rebellion  should  be  the 
last  of  the  attempts  to  prevent  the  We6temization  of  Japan. 

Not  a  little  of  the  exceptionally  rich  flora  of  Hondd  is  trace- 
able to  Kyushu,  where  a  nUinber  of  Chinese  and  other  spedee 
evidently  landed  to  spread  thence  over  the  main  island.  Con* 
,)icuous  among  these  ia  the  VibiirnumpUcatnm  (Jap.  Soimr 
Qrdemari),  an  ornamental  shrab  from  N.  China*)  t\2A  %<0QS^ 


648  LOOCHOO  ISLANDS  Okinam. 

Laurel,  or  Daphne  laiaredla  (Sataumchfuji);  the  Chid&Xsten 
or  CaUiatephus  chinensis  {Saisuma-giku) ;  the  fragrant  S>f  <t  / 
or  mock-orange   (PhUadelphus  coronarius;  Sa&umor^daiSP^^ 
hedgerows  of  which  will  be  met  with  around  Beppu  and  otli«r  * 
places;  the  red-flowered  Azalea  (Rhododendron  indicum);  the 
white-flowered  Deutzia;  the  Anemone;  the  Osmunda  reqali8f 
and  many  others.  Tobacco  came  first  to  Japan  through  KyU- 
shUf  and  it  is  thought  that  the  sweet  potato  (Bcttataa  tdtdia) 
traveled  over  the  same  road,  since  the  Japanese  know  it  as 
Satauma-dmOf  or  Satsuma  potato.  —  Of  the  host  of  small  is- 
lands which  lie  o£f  its  shores,  KyushU  claims  150.  It  has  in 
addition  9  provinces,  8  departments,  85  districts,  11  cities,  127 
towns,  1457  villages,  and  several  active  volcanoes.  Whales  in 
considerable  numbers  are  caught  in  the  environing  sea  — 
which  teems  with  fish  of  many  varieties.  Forty  million  bushels 
of  choice  rice  are  produced  annually,  ^ong  with  10  million  lbs. 
of  tobacco  and  some  camphor.  The  12  million  tons  of  coal 
mined  each  year  are  worth  $20,000,000  in  gold;  the  copper, 
$500,000;  and  the  silver,  $50,000. 

The  Loochoo  Islands,  known  variously  as  RyUkyU,  as  Okinor 
wa,  and  as  the  Nansei  (male)  Group,  an  archipelago  consisting  of 
3  large  islands  (Oshima  at  the  N.E. ;  Tokuno-^himaiaihe  center; 
and  Okinawa,  or  Greater  Loochoo,  at  the  S.  W.)  and  52  smaller 
ones  (in  Ohinaworken),  are  between  the  parallels  of  26**  and  28® 
50'  N.  and  the  meridians  of  126°  42'  and  130°  03'  E.,  and  have 
an  area  of  808  sq.  M.  and  a  population  of  502,000.  They  were 
conquered  by  the  Japanese  under  the  Satsimia  Prince  Shima- 
dzu  lyehisa  about  1609  (prior  to  which  time  they  had  paid 
tribute  both  to  China  and  Japan)  and  were  formally  annexed 
to  the  Empire  in  1876.  From  the  17th  cent.  Japan  has  carried 
on  an  active  trade  with  the  islands,  which  are  in  daily  touch 
with  Kagoshima  by  the  excellent  ships  of  the  Osaka  Shosen 
Kaisha,  The  islands  form  a  series  of  huge  stepping-stones  be- 
tween Tanegashima,  at  the  S.  of  KyUshu,  and  Yonagunishima 
N.E.  of  Formosa,  and  practically  connect  Japan  with  her  most 
southerly  possession.  The  inhabitants  are  honest,  courteous, 
industrious,  and  peaceable,  and  in  these  ways,  as  well  as  in 
dress,  customs,  speech  and  race  are  akin  to  the  Japanese.  The 
language  differs  from  the  Japanese  about  as  much  as  Portu- 
guese does  from  Spanish,  a  connecting  link  between  Lvchuan 
and  Japanese  being  found  in  the  dialect  of  Satsuma.  Oshima, 
1  day's  steam  from  Kagoshima,  the  largest  of  the  islands  be- 
tween Japan  and  Okinawa,  is  30  M.  long  from  N.E.  to  S.W., 
produces  quantities  of  sugar,  wheat^  potatoes,  bananas,  sago, 
etc.,  and  has  a  mt.  peak  on  its  W.  side  2300  ft.  above  the  sea- 
level.  The  climate  is  mild,  with  moderate  temperature  further 
softened  by  steady  sea-breezes.  The  mean  annual  temperature 
is  TO'*,  Aug.  is  the  hottest  mouthy  with  a  mean  temperature  of 
81 ".  Jan.  and  Feb.  are  tlie  OioXd^t^'wvJCci^adDL^Taftwi  of  50**. 


Himdo.  GOTO  ISLANDS  049 

Okinawa,  1  day  S.W.  of  Oahima,  372  M.  from  Kagoshima 
and  364  from  Keelung  (in  Formosa),  the  largest  of  the  Nansei 
GrouVy  is  60  M.  long  from  N.E.  to  S.W.  with  a  varying 
breadth  of  from  2  to  14  M.  Naha,  on  the  S.W.  side,  facing  the 
bay  of  the  same  name,  capital  of  the  group,  with  48,000  inhabs., 
is  the  chief  city  and  is  built  after  the  style  of  a  modem  Japan- 
ese town,  with  the  customary  canals,  bridges,  shrines,  temples, 
and  what-not.  It  contains  nothing  to  interest  foreign  travel- 
ers. Chief  among  the  inns  is  the  Ikehata  (¥2  and  upward),  in 
pure  native  style.  Some  of  the  attractive  Loochoo  lacquer  made 
here  is  exported  to  Kobe.  The  fine  grass-cloth  woven  (of  hemp 
— jofu)  in  the  neighborhood,  and  known  in  Japan  proper  as 
ScUsumorjofu,  may  be  seen  in  the  shops  of  Kagoshima,  —  The 
MiYAKO  and  Yaeyama  Groups,  S.W.  of  Okinawa,  between  the 
parallels  of  24*»  00'  and  25**  06'  N.  and  the  meridians  of  122° 
55'  and  125°  30'  E.,  comprise  10  islands  of  coral  and  volcanic 
construction,  and  are  of  interest  to  seamen  because  of  the  mag- 
nificent and  spectacular-volcanic  displays  to  be  seen  there  at 
times. 

Conspicuous  among  the  network  of  islands  that  dot  the  sea 
W.  of  Kyushu  is  the  Got6  (Five  Islands)  Group  (50  M.  from 
Nagasaki;  coasting  steamers  at  frequent  intervals),  a  mountain- 
ous chain  of  many  islets  lying  between  the  parallels  of  32°  33' 
and  33°  19'  N.  Their  longest  extension  (N.E.  to  S.W.)  is  50 
M.  FuJcue,  the  southernmost,  about  14  by  14  M.,  is  the  largest, 
and  Nakadorif  a  cruciform  islaiid  20  M.  in  length  is  the  longest. 
FukuCf  the  chief  town,  contains  the  massive  ruins  of  a  castle 
built  in  1614  and  reconstructed  in  1849  by  the  Goto  daimyos. 
Tomie  is  the  headquarters  of  the  Coral  Industry  in  Japan, 
the  value  of  the  catch  (much  of  which  is  bought  by  Italians) 
amounting  to  more  than  i  million  yen,  — Hirado-shima,  an 
island  (17  M.  long  N.E.  and  S.W.)  a  short  distance  N.E.  of 
the  Goto  GrouVf  is  separated  from  the  province  of  Hizen  by 
the  narrow  (i  M.)  Hirado-kaikyo  {ih.Q  Specx  Strait  of  the  Euro- 
peans). The  highest  point  is  Yasuman-dakef  1778  ft.  Hirado 
Port,  the  capital,  on  the  E.  side  of  the  idiand,  on  the  N.  shore 
of  the  bay  of  the  same  name,  was  the  chief  trading-place  of  the 
Portuguese  from  the  middle  of  the  16th  cent.  tUT  their  expul- 
sion from  Japan;  and  of  the  Dutch  from  1609  until  their  fac- 
tory was  transferred  to  Nagasaki,  in  1641.  The  English  had  a 
commercial  base  here  from  1613  to  1624.  The  town  is  known 
to  porcelainists  for  its  beautiful  blue-and-white  porcelain  of  *  a 
fine  close  biscuit,  pure  white  glaze,  and  blue,  which,  if  not  so 
deep  or  strong  as  the  most  esteemed  Chinese  color,  is  of  un- 
surpassed delicacy  and  sesthetic  beauty.' 


650    RU.S9.     SHIMONOSEEI  TO  NAGASAKI      Map. 

39.  From  Shimonoseki  (Moji)  vift  Hakata,  Fukuoka,  Tosu, 

Arita,  and  Sasebo  to  NagasaM* 

Nagasaki  Main  Line  of  the  Imperial  6ovenunent*8  Kjrfishtt  Railway!. 

164  M.  Several  trains  daily  in  about  5  hrs.;  fare,  Ist  ol.  ¥5.33;  2d  oL. 
¥3.20.  Not  all  of  the  trains  carry  dining-  and  sleeping-oars,  for  reference 
to  which  consult  the  rly.  folders  and  p.  Ixxxiii.  From  Moji,  on  the  S.  aide  of 
the  Shimonoseki  Strait,  the  train  traverses  Btuum  and  CMkiuen  before  enter- 
ing Hizen  Province.  Unless  one  boards  a  Nagwaki  car  one  may  have  to 
cmtnge  at  Toau,  where  the  Kagoahima  Line  branches  southward. 

Moji  (Inn:  Moji  Hotel,  ¥4),  a  sort  of  Japanese  Pittsburg  at 
the  no]:themmost  point  of  Buzen  Province,  is  not  unattractive 
just  after  the  rains  from  heaven  have  washed  its  smudgy  face. 
As  the  N.  terminus  of  the  extensive  KyUshu  rlys.,  and  as  a  big 
shipping-point  for  the  vast  quantities  of  coal  mined  in  Bvzen 
and  Chikmen  Provinces,  it  enjoys  considerable  prosperity. 
There  is  an  air  of  suppressed  restlessness  and  energy  about  tne 
place  strangely  out  of  keeping  with  its  Japanese  aspect.  Im- 
mense power-plants,  scores  of  factory  chimneys,  clouds  of  sooty 
smoke,  and  all  the  unhandsome  attnbutes  of  a  manufacturing 
Occidental  city  are  features  of  it,  and  the  inhabitants  seem 
determined  to  level  all  the  surrounding  hills  and  make  of  l^e 
spot  a  Kyushu  metropolis.  The  finely  laid  out  public  garden 
or  Kiyotafd-kden,  on  one  of  the  hills  back  of  it,  commands  the 
sea,  while  equally  wide  views  are  obtained  from  the  grounds 
of  the  Mekari-jinshaf  a  Shinto  temple  dedicated  to  Jimmu 
Tenno's  father. 

The  train  seems  glad  to  get  away  from  the  dingy  port,  and 
it  hurries  out  through  the  noisy  suburbs  to  the  shore  of  the 
undefiled  sea  where  one  may  breathe  pure  air  and  feast  the 
eyes  on  the  inspiriting  sight  of  hundreds  of  ships  of  all  classes 
—  steamers,  fore-and-aft  and  square-rigged  sailors,  mediaeval 
junks  with  bellying  sails  like  the  dorsal  fins  of  huge  sea-crea- 
tures, sampans,  luggers,  and  what-not,  standing  in  or  out  of 
the  narrow  strait  and  betimes  courtesying  to  the  strong  tide- 
rip  that  ruffles  its  surface.  Beyond  the  suburban  town  of 
Dairi  there  is  a  long  sea-wall  of  fine  granite  and  a  fleet  of  tea- 
houses standing  on  spindly  legs  half  in  the  water.  Majestic 
old  pine  trees  fringe  the  idyllic  shore,  and  the  silvery  tentacles 
which  the  sea  reaches  in  through  the  little  towns  are  crowded 
with  junks,  lighters,  and  sampans.  After  passing  7  M.  Ko- 
kura  Jet.  (pop.  32,000),  the  starting-point  for  Beppu  and  the 
towns  described  in  Rte.  41,  the  train  flashes  through  severed 
small  towns  embowered  in  fruit  trees  and  overtoppcKi  by 
high-pitched  temple-roofs.  Many  crude  ship-building  yards, 
where  leaking  old  junks  are  being  caulked  and  otherwise  doc- 
tored, bead  the  shore,  while  a  fairly  good  turnpike  fl^mks  the 
rly.  Beyond  11  M.  Tohata^  acres  of  coal-pUes  are  seen  with 
sooty  gnomes  running  acroea  \\ve;m  ^iMVck^d^^the  compressed 


Yedafkitm,  HAKATA  39.  Route.    651 

energy  into  junks  whose  masts  are  as  many  as  trees  in  a  forest. 
Coke-ovens  are  features  of  the  neighborhood. 

12  M.  Y^damitsu,  13  M.  Yaioata.  The  huge  plant  at  the 
right  is  the  Imperial  Steel  Works  (Seitetsu-jo)  established  in 
1897  after  the  model  of  the  Krupp  Works.  A  dozen  or  more 
tall  chimneys  pour  out  clouds  of  choking  gray-black  smoke 
that  rest  like  a  pall  above  the  landscape.  Within  the  245  acres 
are  numerous  factories,  26  M.  of  rly.,  many  ore-piles,  fire-brick 
kilns,  and  what-not,  with  10,000  workmen.  Bessemer  and 
open-hearth  steel  products  of  many  kinds  are  made  here  of 
magnetite,  hematite,  and  limonite  ores.  Signs  posted  by  the 
War  Department  warn  travelers  to  refrain  from  taking  photo- 
graphs in  the  neighborhood.  —  From  16  M.  KurosaH  a 
branch  line  runs  to  7  M.  Okvra  and  later  joins  the  main  line  at 
Kokvxa  Jet.  The  rly.  now  deserts  the  sea  and  crosses  paddy- 
fields  dotted  here  and  there  with  lotus-ponds.  19  M.  (hio  Jet. 
The  branch  line  which  turns  off  at  the  right  goes  to  6  M.  Wa- 
kamatsu  (pop.  28,000)  a  seaport  whence  much  of  the  coal  from 
Chikuzen  and  Buzen  Provinces  is  exported.  Another  line,  the 
Chikuho  branch,  runs  S.  vid  several  coal-producing  stations  to 
(26  M.)  Kami^Yamaday  in  the  center  of  a  region  of  a  hundred 
or  more  producing  mines.  Coal  is  the  shibboleth  of  the  region, 
and  scores  of  laden  barges  move  slowly  along  the  canals  to- 
ward the  sea. 

The  main  line  now  climbs  over  a  narrow  ridge  and  con- 
tinues across  a  rolling  country  where  considerable  rice  is*  pro- 
duced and  where  lotuses  are  cultivated* for  their  edible  roots. 
Vegetable-wax  and  persimmon  trees  fleck  the  hillsides.  At  44 
M.  Kasha  a  branch  line  goes  off  to  the  right  to  7  M.  Saitozakif 
on  Hakata  Bayj  renowned  as  the  place  where  the  Empress 
Jingo  started  on  her  expedition  to  Korea  200  years  aifter 
Christ  was  born!  The  sea  hereabout,  the  Genkai  Nada^  is 
noted  for  its  beauty.  47  M.  Hakozaki  has  a  Shinto  temple, 
the  Haehiman-ifil,  said  to  have  been  founded  in  759,  and  dedi- 
cated to  Ojinj  the  Grod  of  War.  The  grove  of  stalwart  pines 
which  surround  it  is  marked  by  a  great  granite  torii  overlooking 
the  sea.  The  lovely  beach  hence  to  Hakata  is  known  as  the 
Chiyo-no-Matsuharaf  or  'Pine  Grove  of  a  Thousand  Genera- 
tions,'from  the  ancient  pines  which  flank  it.  48  M.  Yoshizuka. 
A  few  hundred  yds.  at  the  right,  on  a  tall  granite  base,  stands 
a  splendid  monument  in  bronze  (33  ft.  high;  by  Okazaki 
Sessei)  of  the  Buddhist  monk  Nichiren  (p.  cci).  The  smaller 
(but  taller)  one  at  the  left  is  of  the  (90th)  Emperor  Kameyama, 
clad  in  the  quaint  costume  of  his  time.  Botn  were  erected  in 
1904  and  both  commemorate  the  great  Mongol  Invaaion  which 
was  predicted  by  Nichiren  3  years  before  it  occurred. 

49  M.  Hakata  (Inn:  Matsushima-yaf  ¥3,  opposite  the  sta- 
tion), a  clean  and  attractive  port,  though  uieoretically  A  cits 
by  itself  is  joined  materially  and  politically  lo  "S^iliKMS^kA.  ^^3^usl\ 


652    Route  39.      MONGOL  INVASION  PvkfwiktL 

Sakae-ya,  ¥2.50  to  4.50)  a  growing  commercial  port  (capital 
of  CkUcvzen  Province  with  83,000  inhabs.)  on  the  far  side 
of  the  Naka  River  facing  Hakala  Bay,  in  lat.  33^  35'  N.  and 
long.  130^  25'  E.  of  Greenwich.  Formally  the  castle  town  of 
the  Daimyd  Kwroda,  Fukuoka  was  the  abode  of  many  ^amurat, 
while  HcScata  plsiyea  to  a  certain  extent  the  part  of  a  suburb, 
where  the  tradesmen  and  artisans  dwelt.  The  twin  cities  have 
long  been  renowned  for  various  woven  silken  stuffs  known  as 
Hakatorori;  for  striped  silk  and  cotton  cloth  called  Uakatar 
jima;  and  for  the  well-known  TahUori-yaki,  a  lustrous  faience 
the  art  of  making  which  is  believed  to  have  been  taught  here 
by  Korean  experts  in  ]bhe  16th  cent.  The  sashes  {cbi)  made 
locally  are  greatly  prizea  for  their  quality.  A  lively  intercourse 
was  maintained  with  China  in  the  early  years  of  the  Japanese 
Empire,  and  to  the  coast  hereabout  we  redoubtable  KvJblai 
Khan,  (Jap.  KopiUurretau)  sent  his  Mongol  hordes  in  the  13th 
cent,  to  ignominious  defeat  and  death  at  the  hands  of  iheSkU^ 
ken  Hojo  Tokimune,  the  chief  official  in  the  Kamakura  shdgunaU 
at  the  time.  The  ruins  of  the  stone  barrier  erected  on  the  fiAiore 
to  protect  the  town  from  the  Mongol  attacks,  as  weU  as  the 
tomb  marking  the  place  where  hundreds  of  the  slain  corsairs 
were  interred,  are  still  shown. 

The  Mongol  In^asioii  was  precipitated  by  a  Korean  named  Cho  I,  who 
found  his  way  to  Pekin,  and  having  gained  the  ear  of  the  piratical  Kubltri 
Khan  hinted  that  the  Mongol  Power  ought  to  demand  the  vassalage  of  Ja- 
pan. The  predatory  Tartars  had  already  overthrown  the  Sung  (Jap.  So) 
Dsmasty,  and  nomad  bands  had  spread  as  far  as  the  Euphrates  and  Tigris, 
carndng  death  and  devastation  to  what  had  once  been  the  great  Babylon- 
ian Empire.  Kublai  at  once  sent  two  ambassadors  to  Japan,  but  the  mi»- 
sion  was  driven  back  by  a  tempest  and  accomplished  nothing.  In  1268,  he 
sent  another  envoy,  but  Hdjd  Toktmune  (the  6th  Kanuikura  Shtkken)  was 
so  displeased  with  the  arrogant  tenor  of  the  note  that  he  ignored  it  by  a 
studied  system  of  procrastination.  In  1271,  another  embassy  was  sent  with 
the  same  result,  whereupon  the  enraged  Khan  (an  Arabic  word  used  by  Ma- 
hometans in  the  same  sense  as  *  Elsquire')  ordered  one  of  the  provincial 
kings  of  Korea  to  build  a  thousand  junks  and  to  assemble  40,000  troops  for 
the  proposed  invasion  of  the  Island  Empire. — In  Nov.,  1274  (at  which 
period  Marco  Polo  was  residing  at  the  court  of  Kublai  Khan),  the  great 
Mongol  Armada  put  to  sea.  The  island  of  Tauahima  was  first  reduced,  and 
later  Jki  was  attacked:  the  garrison  sold  their  lives  dearly,  but  they,  as  well 
as  the  people  of  Tauahima,  experienced  to  the  full  the  barbarities  that  in 
those  tunes  attended  a  Mongol  victory.  From  Iki  the  adventurers  pro- 
ceeded directly  to  Hakotaki,  which  they  promptly  attacked.  The  dis- 
charges from  the  great  slings  and  huge  cross-bows  employed  by  the  Mongols 
made  fearful  havoc  among  the  Japanese,  armed  only  with  their  lighter  bows 
and  arrows.  According  to  Yule^a  Marco  Polo  (vol.  ii,  pp.  143-50) ;  *  The 
trebuchets  discharged  stones,  and  were  used  to  throw  pots  and  barrels  oi 
combustible  material,  destined  to  set  fire  to  the  brattices  or  roofs  of  towers 
or  to  start  a  conflagration  in  the  town  which  they  were  employed  to  bom- 
bard. Each  Tartar  had  a  bow  and  60  arrows;  of  these  30  were  light,  with 
small  sharp  points,  whilst  the  other  30  were  heavy,  with  large  broad  heads, 
which  they  shot  at  close  quarters,  and  with  which  they  inflicted  great  gaslies 
on  faces  and  arms,  cut  the  enemy's  bowstrings,  and  committed  great  havoc 
When  they  had  shot  away  their  arrows  they  took  to  their  swords,  maces  and 
lances,  wmoh  they  plied  stoutly.  But  the  great  Kwantd  bows  of  the  Japanese 
were  not  idle;  Bhowera  of  hurtling,  whistling,  death-dealing  arrows  from 
fltoewy  anna  fell  upon  the  Mobilc^a  "wVioofiraot  \\v«  Japanese  could  get  within 


Marco  Polo,  KUBLAI  KHAN  39.  RoiOe.    653 

strikiiig  distance  of  their  foes;  some  of  them  swam  out  to  the  fleet  of  Junks, 
boarded  them  in  a  whirlwind  of  frenzy,  and  cut  off  the  heads  of  the  crews. 
To  foil  these  cutting-out  parties,  the  fleet  ranged  itself  in  a  cordon  and  linked 
each  vessel  to  the  other  with  an  iron  chain;  catapults,  immense  bow-guns 
shooting  ponderous  darts,  and  other  bisarre  engines  of  medisval  warfare 
were  mounted  on  their  decks  to  sink  attacking  boats.  But  before  the  new 
weapons  were  in  operation  the  daring  Japanese  had  secured  upward  of  2000 
Mongol  heads,  which  they  deposited:  on  shore.  Late  in  the  afternoon  they 
retired  behind  the  rude  fortification  which  had  been  erected  on  shore,  to 
which  they  hung  until  new  levies  poured  in  from  the  surrounding  country. 

According  to  native  annalists  the  Japanese  were  aided  in  their  efforts  to 
repel  the  Mongols  by  the  direct  intervention  of  the  gods.  The  Emperor 
went  in  state  to  the  high  priest  of  the  Shinid  cult  and  bade  him  carry  a  peti- 
tion to  the  Imperial  shrine  at  Ise.  No  sooner  were  the  Imperial  wishes  made 
known  than  the  gods  set  immediately  to  work.  A  dregful  typhoon  was 
loosened  and  it  swept  the  Japanese  coast  with  resistless  force.  The  Mongols, 
somewhat  versed  in  weather  indications  as  well  as  in  warfare,  foresaw  its 
approach  and  hurriedly  embarked  on  board  of  their  Junks.  To  facilitate 
their  temporary  retreat  they  set  fire  to  the  great  shrine  at  Hakozaki,  and  to 
several  of  the  viUages  which  fringed  the  bay.  '  Soon  the  Japanese  behind  the 
Mvtuki  embankment  saw  the  evening  sky  ruddy  with  the  lurid  glow  of  wildly 
leading  and  rapidly  spreading  flames,  announcing  the  ruin  of  the  altars  of 
their  gods,  and  of  their  own  hearths  and  homes.  All  through  the  darkness  of 
the  night  they  cowered  shelterless  behind  the  dyke,  drenched  with  the  terrible 
deluge  of  rain  which  preceded  the  "  Great  Wind,"  but  when  morning  at  last 
dawned  they  saw  the  vessels  of  the  invaders'  fleet  running  out  through  the 
mouth  of  Hakozaki  Bay.'  Here  the  typhoon  hit  them  with  irresistible  force; 
one  ship  with  about  a  hundred  men  on  board  ran  aground  on  Shiga  Spit^ 
which  forms  the  N.  horn  of  the  haven ;  and  these  unfortunates  were  promptly 
captured,  carried  to  Mizuki,  and  there  put  to  the  sword.  Many  of  the  helpless 
vessels  foimdered  in  the  open  sea.  '  They  were  butted  together  like  mad 
bulls,  impaled  on  the  rocks,  dashed  against  the  cliffs,  or  tossed  on  land  like 
corks  from  the  spray.  Many  were  blown  over  till  they  careened  and  filled. 
Heavily  freighted  with  human  beings,  they  sunk  by  hundreds.  The  corpses 
were  piled  on  shore,  or  floating  on  the  water  so  thickly  that  it  seemed  almost 
possible  to  walk  thereon.  Some  of  the  vessels  of  the  survivors  drifted  to  or 
were  wrecked  on  Takaahima,  where  they  established  themselves,  and,  cut- 
ting down  trees,  began  building  boats  to  reach  Korea.  Here  thev  were  at- 
tacked by  the  Japanese,  and  after  a  bloody  struggle,  were  slain  or  driven  into 
the  sea  to  be  drowned.  When  the  remnants  of  the  expedition  reunited,  it  was 
found  that  its  operations,  so  far,  had  cost  the  lives  of  13,200  men.' 

In  1275,  the  irrepressible  Khan  sent  another  mission  to  order  the  Japanese 
Emperor  to  repair  to  Pekin  and  to  do  obeisance,  as  the  K6ryu  King  had 
done.  The  men  comprising  this  mission  were  sent  to  Kamakurat  executed 
there  on  the  beach,  and  their  heads  exposed  on  the  public  pillories.  In  1280, 

}mt  another  group  of  envosrs  met  the  same  fate,  and  this  so  enraged  the  be- 
igerent  Kublai  that  he  followed  them  up  by  another  huge  Armada  com- 
posed of  3500  Junks  and  100,000  men.  The  elements  again  proved  their  un- 
doing. '  A  storm  arose  from  the  west,  and  all  the  vessels  made  for  the  en- 
trance of  the  harbor  togjather.  The  tide  was  running  in  very  strong  and  the 
ships  were  carried  along  irresistibly  in  its  grip.  As  they  converged  to  a  focus 
at  the  mouth  of  the  harbor  a  terrible  catastrophe  occurred.  The  vessels 
were  Jammed  together  in  the  offing,  and  the  bodies  of  men  and  broken  tim- 
bers of  the  ships  were  heaped  together  in  a  solid  mass  so  that  a  person  could 
walk  across  from  one  point  of  land  to  anotiier  on  the  mass  of  wreckage.  Ac- 
cording to  some  accounts  3000  prisoners  were  massacred,  only  three  being 
spared  for  the  purpose  of  carrying  an  account  of  the  fate  of  the  expedition 
back  to  China.  The  Chinese  annals  say  from  10,000  to  12,000  were  made 
slaves.  Great  as  had  been  the  failure  of  this  second  attempt  on  Japan,  Ku' 
blai  at  once  began  to  concert  measures  for  a  third  great  armament,  but  the 
Mongols  refused;  they  were  tired  of  that  sort  of  service.'   (Murdoch.) 

The  entire  neighborhood  is  studded  with  ancient  temples 
and  monuments.  Japanese  remember  it  for  the  battle  of  133& 
in  which  Kikuche  Taketoki,  a  loyal  suppoitex  ol  >iXi<&  UTtol^^a3^^ 


654    Route  39.     SUGAWARA  MICHIZANE  Dazaifu. 

ate  Emperor  Go-DaigOj  was  killed  by  the  soldiers  of  Ashikaga 
Takauji.  The  traveler  with  time  to  spare  may  like  to  visit 
the  (13  M.)  Genhtuid  Ca/oem,  a  big  cave  which  the  sea  has  eaten 
out  of  a  basaltic  cliff  and  in  which  a  heavy  surf  pounds  with  a 
reverberating  roar.  Small  steamers  ply  across  the  lovely  sea 
to  the  village  of  KeyorruhOto  (by  which  name  the  cavern  is 
sometimes  called).  Near  (3  M.)  Najima,  on  the  shore,  are  bits 
of  a  petrified  tree  which  the  ignorant  believe  once  formed  the 
masts  of  the  junk  which  earned  the  mythical  Empress  Jingo 
to  Korea.  An  electric  tramway  connects  HdkatorFiihuoka  with 
several  surrounding  towns.  The  Medical  College  is  a  branch  of 
the  Kyoto  Imperial  University.  —  The  towns  touched  at  by 
the  short  line  of  the  Hakatawan  Rly.  Co,  are  of  no  interest  to 
foreigners. 

From  Fvkuoka  the  rly.  curves  and  runs  southward  through 
a  sparsely  settled,  indifferently  cultivated  region;  the  wHd 
pampas-grass  and  the  densely  wooded  hills  impart  a  primeval 
aspect.  A  little  cheap  pottery  is  made  in  the  monotonous  vil- 
lages. —  58  M.  FvJLsvkaichi  is  the  point  of  departure  for  the 
(2  M.,  tram-car)  historic  Dazaifu  (Inn:  Izumiya,  ¥2.50), 
known  throughout  Japan  for  its  association  with  Sugawara- 
Michizane,  the  statesman  and  scholar  who  died  there  in  exile. 

Sttgawara  Michizane  (b.  &\5;  d.  903),  a  deeply  learned,  noble-minded 
man,  rose  to  prominence  during  the  brief  reign  of  the  (59th)  Mikado  Uda 
(88S-97) ,  over  whom  he  exerted  a  strong  influence.  Because  of  this  the  Fu" 
jiwara  Ulan  planned  his  downfall.  He  was  acciised  of  conspiring  to  de- 
throne the  sovereign,  and  was  banished  to  Dazaifu,  where  he  soon  died  a 
miserable  death  —  presumably  by^  starvation.  Soon  after  Michizane**  de- 
portation his  enemies  began  to  die  one  by  one,  and  in  these  premature 
deaths  the  superstition  of  the  time  saw  the  intervention  of  a  retributive  and 
avenging  Providence.  The  Emperor  repented  bitterly  his  conduct  in  sanc- 
tioning the  decree  of  banishment,  burnt  all  the  documents  in  connection  with 
the  case  —  to  the  great  inconvenience  of  subsequent  historians  —  and  re- 
stored Michizane  posthumously  to  his  former  position.  When  a  few  years 
later  the  young  Prince  Imperial  died,  his  early  demise  was  ascribed  to  the 
curse  of  Michizane* a  angry  shade,  so  to  prevent  his  ghost  from  inflicting  ad- 
ditional harm  on  the  people  a  number  of  temples  were  erected  to  his  memory 
and  he  was  deified  under  the  titles  of  Tenjin  (Heaven  man);  Temmangu 
(Heavenly  spirit,  etc.).  One  of  these  temples  (the  Kitano  Tenjin)  stands  in 
KySto;  another  at  Kameido,  in  Tdkyd,  where  he  is  revered  as  the  (jiod  of  Cal- 
ligraphy. (IShildren  offer  to  his  shrine  the  first  examples  of  their  handwriting, 
and  deposit  in  receptacles  made  for  them  their  worn-out  writing-brushes. 
Michizane' 8  portrait  appears  on  one  of  the  bills  of  the  Bank  of  Japan.  His 
shrine  at  Dazaifu  (the  Temmangu)  stands  amid  some  fine  old  camphor 
trees  and  was  renovated  in  1902,  at  the  time  of  the  millenaiy  observance 
of  his  death.  The  preponderance  of  bronze  bulls  noted  at  this  and  similar 
shrines  throiighout  .the  Empire  symbolizes  Michizane*  a  humility.  He  is  often 
pictured  riding  on  one  of  these  lowly  beasts. 

From  the  6th  cent,  onward,  Do^ai/u  (lit., '  the  military  goverzmient')  was 
the  seat  of  the  KyfLshQ  administration.  One  of  the  first  mints  erected 
in  Japan  was  established  here  in  760,  and  here,  in  1182,  the  boy  Emperor 
Antoku  took  refuge,  but  the  revolt  of  Ogata  Koreyoahi  compelled  him  to 
pass  into  Nagato,  where  he  met  his  death  in  the  manner  described  at 
p.  646.  The  big  hill  called  Tempai-zan,  at  the  far  right  of  the  FtUzukaichi 
SkUion,  is  crowned  by  a  shrine  consecrated  to  Michizane,  who  is  aaid  to 
have  repaired  hither  often  to  turn  his  face  toward  Kydto  and  venerate  the 
Emperor  who  exiled  bim.  —  't^ot  Im  qS  axe  the  Hot  Springe  of  Mu^aihi, 
Wk^re  pilgrjmp  to  Oazaifu  foTHatYvex, 


Tosu,  KARATSU  39.  Route,    656 

At  67  M.  Tosu,  the  main  line  of  the  riy.  turns  and  runs  due 
S.  to  Kumamoto  and  Kagoshima  (Rte.  41),  while  ours  continues 
across  a  green  and  partly  cultivated  country  whose  meager, 
volcanic  soil  is  peculiarly  suitable  to  the  growth  of  luscious 
water-melons  (suika).  The  land  is  dotted  with  thousands  of 
vegetable-wax  trees  (Rhus  stuxedanea;  Jap.  Haze-mo-ki;  an  im- 
portation from  the  Loochoo  Island8)f  which  bear  a  close  resem- 
blance to  big  peach  trees.  [From  the  small  clustered  berries 
an  excellent  white  candle-wax  (ro)  is  expressed,  which  adds 
materially  to  the  wealth  of  the  island.  In  the  autumn  the 
leaves  turn  yellow,  then  red,  and  flame  like  those  of  the  maple.] 
—  Most  of  the  ponds  along  the  rly.  are  choked  with  lotuses, 
which  present  a  magnificent  spectacle  in  late  summer.  The 
country  pikes  are  not  as  good  as  those  of  the  main  island,  but 
are  passable  for  motor-cars.  Most  of  the  jinrikishas  which 
travel  them  are  equipped  with  buff-colored  tops  —  a  conces- 
sion to  the  southern  sun  which  shines  here  with  blinding  in- 
tensity. 81  M.  Saga. (lim:  Eitokuya.  opposite  the  station; 
¥2.50),  in  Saga  ken,  with  36,000  inhaos.,  was  until  1553  the 
castled  seat  of  the  Ryuzoji  daimyos;  thenceforward  to  1868 
it  was  the  headquarters  of  the  powerful  Nabeshima  family. 
In  1874,  it  acquired  an  unenviable  fame  for  the  reactionary 
spirit  of  certain  of  its  rulers,  but  the  civil  war  provoked  by 
Eto  Shimpei  (aforetime  Minister  of  Justice  under  the  restored 
Imperial  Gov't)  was  promptly  checked^  the  leader  with  10 
others  being  executed  and  their  heads  pilloried. 

86  M.  Kubotaj  is  the  junction  for  a  branch  Hne  which  runs 
(out  of  the  same  station)  to  (25  M.)  Karatsu  (Inn:  Hakataya, 
¥2.50),  a  bustling  port  on  Karatsu  Bay,  in  Hizen  Province, 
where  coal  and  the  well-known  Karatsu  porcelain  are  exported; 
there  are  extensive  kilns  in  the  neighborhood,  and  the  coal  is 
brought  from  the  mines  on  the  left  bank  of  the  picturesoue 
Mdtsuura  River  (which  runs  through  the  town)  about  6  M. 
from  its  mouth.  Steamships  leave  at  frequent  intervals  for 
Korean  towns  and  ports  on  the  Japan  Sea.  The  bold,  square- 
topped  peak  which  rises  (2638  ft.)  above  the  bay  (12  M.  long; 
entrance  7  M.  wide)  is  Ukirdake,  Near  the  mouth  of  the  river 
is  a  lovely  beach  (tram-car,  1  M.)  called  Niji-no-Matsuhara 
from  the  splendid  old  pine  trees  which  fringe  it.  The  most  pop- 
ular of  the  bathing-resorts  is  Kaihinrin.  At  (6  M.,  boats)  No- 
natsu-gama  (* Seven  Kettles')  there  are  caverns  hollowed  out 
by  the  action  of  the  sea-water,  and  some  striking  basaltic  cliffs 
with  curious  hexagonal  rocks.  The  ruinous  old  castle  in  the 
town  was  built  by  Hideyoshi  diuing  the  Korean  War  (1592- 
98),  and  was  occupied  by  the  ruling  daimyos  down  to  1868. 

Beyond  88  M.  Ushizu  the  country  is  green  and  is  well  wa- 
tered by  numerous  small  rivers;  the  wide  plains  produce  such 
abimdant  crops  of  rice  that  it  is  said  the  yield  of  one  yt.  v& 
sufficient  to  support  the  sparse  populaUon  lot  ^v^  y».  "^Sss^a 


656    Route  39.       ARITA  PORCELAIN  Imari  Wart. 

clumps  of  evergreens  dot  the  plains,  and  the  hills  which  always 
rise  somewhere  near  are  covered  to  their  summits  with  dense 
groves  of  a  score  or  more  varieties  of  trees,  and  huge  but  grace- 
ful ferns.  The  hills  b^ond  96  M.  Kitagata  contain  coal.  — 
99  M.  Takeo  (Inn:  Tokyo-ya  Hotel,  etc.,  ¥3)  nestles  amid 
green  hills  from  whose  fiery  bosom  spurt  hot  ferruginous  waters 
much  resorted  to  by  the  ailing  of  both  sexes  —  who  min^e 
indiscriminately  in  the  baths.  These  are  at  the  foot  of  the  hill, 
at  the  lower  end  of  the  town,  i  M.  to  the  right  of  the  station, 
near  some  pointed  fantastic  rocks  among  which  sit  several 
fatuous  stone  Buddhas.  The  quaint  Uttle  town  is  embower^ 
in  tallow  trees  (Sapium  sehif erum;  Ja,p,  Ro-no'hi;  a  Chinese 
importation),  a  small  smooth  tree  with  fruit-clusters  like  green 
olives  and  triple  seeds  inclosed  in  a  fatty  substance  of  which 
candles  are  made.  The  tall  hill  at  the  left  of  the  station,  with 
perpendicular  rocks  like  cathedral  spires,  is  Shiro-yama 
(Castle  Mt.).  —  The  train  climbs  into  a  labyrinth  of  green 
hills  on  whose  densely  wooded  sides  grow  in  inextricable  con- 
fusion, hundreds  of  the  semi-tropical  trees  and  flowers  for 
which  Kyushu  is  noted  —  ferns  and  bamboos,  oaks  and  cam- 
phor laiu^ls,  maples  and  cherries,  and  flowers  innumerable. 

109  M.  Aiita,  a  small  town  in  a  valley  between  hills  aptly 
exemplifies  the  phrase.  Hie  natus  ufnque  notus,  for  the  name 
is  known  wherever  porcelainists  foregather.  Here,  and  at 
(8  M.  by  rly.  to  the  N.W.)  Imari,  the  widely  popular  Arita- 
yaki  is  made  in  crude  potteries  small  in  comparison  with  their 
output  and  their  fame.  The  station  platform  is  usually  piled 
high  with  cylindrical,  straw-wrapped  bundles  awaiting  ship- 
ment to  the  curio  centers  of  Japan  and  abroad. 

According  to  Dr.  Rein  the  manufacture  of  Porcelam  at  Arita  is  eeneraliy 
traced  to  Gorodayu  Shonaui,  a  potter  of  Ise  Province,  who  lived  at  the  begin- 
ning of  the  16th  cent,  and  waa  the  first  in  Japan  to  manufacture  porcelain 
proper  as  distinguished  from  pottery.  Moved  by  the  beauty  and  value  of 
Chinese  porcelain,  which  began  to  reach  Japan  at  this  time,  he  undertook  a 
Journey  to  King-te48chin  vi&  Fuchow,  and  remained  there  5  yrs.  to  learn  the 
trade.  Returning  in  1514  he  settled  in  the  then  insignificant  town  of  Arita 
and  prepared  from  the  materials  he  had  brought  from  China  a  number  of 
coarse  porcelain  wares  decorated  under  glase  with  blue  cobalt.  When  his 
stock  of  Chinese  porcelain  material  was  exhausted,  and^  he  found  himself 
obliged  to  depend  on  domestic  clay,  he  could  make  nothing  but  faience,  as 
did  his  successors  to  the  end  of  the  century,  with  cobalt  decoration  under 
glaze.  Ceramics  received  a  new  impulse  here  (and  in  many  other  parts  of 
Japan)  with  the  return  of  Hideyoahi's  army  from  Korea  (in  1598).  Nabe- 
ahima  Naoahige,  the  daimyd  of  Hizen  Province,  and  one  of  the  commanders 
of  the  Japanese  troops  in  Korea,  brought  back  wit^  him  several  Korean  pot- 
ters, who  settled  firat  in  the  bathing-resort  of  Ureahimo,  but  later  in  ArUa. 
One  of  them,  Riaampei,  discovered,  m  1599,  porcelain  stone  on  the  Idsumi' 
yama  £.  of  Arita^  and  at  once  began  the  manufacture  of  porcelain  in  Japan. 
The  use  of  red  oxide  of  iron  followed  some  yrs.  after  that  of  cobalt  decoration 
under  glase* (thought  by  some  to  have  been  brought  out  by  the  Dutch),  and 
2  yrs.  later  decoration  on  glaze  was  introduced  by  Higaahijima  Tohtemon 
and  Sakaida  Kc^nemon,  potters,  of  Arita,  who  learned  the  process  from  the 
captain  of  a  Chinese  Junk,  &tNagaaaki.  The  Dutch,  as  early  as  1680,  im- 
ported 'Old  Hisen'  from  NaooMOKi,  and  all  the  porcelain  brought  into  Eo- 
ivpe  previous  to  1864  by  them  wVlhovjiha  Anto,  ItmkK,  or  Higen  ware  — 


Hizen  Ware.  ARITA  PORCELAIN     89»  Rouie.    657 

the  first  name  denoting  the  place  of  manufacture;  the  2d,  the  neighboring 
■hipping-i>ort;  the  3d,  the  province  in  which  the  two,  together  with  Naoor 
9akit  are  situated.  —  For  many  yrs.  the  Arita  industry  was  the  most  hij^ly 
developed  and  the  most  conspicuous  of  all  the  Jap&neae  potteries,  ^he 
range  of  hills  bring  to  the  £.  furnished  inexhaustible  quantities  of  porcelain 
stone  of  incomparable  quality  —  a  peculiar  material  from  which  pottery  of 
the  most  vaiying  forms  is  made,  from  the  light  and  finest  eggshell  porcelain 
to  the  imposing  vases  6  or  more  ft.  high.  It  is  a  product  of  the  transforma- 
tion of  the  old  volcanic  rock  which  is  fotmd  close  by  in  an  unchanged  state 
as  perlite  breccia  and  trachyte  (a  compact  rock  with  2.5-2.7  spec&c  grav- 
ity). Its  color  is  a  grajosh  white  or  soft  yellow,  resembling  trachyte  or  f el- 
site  clay-stone.  The  best  kind  is  almost  pure  kaolin,  while  in  other  places  the 
rock  is  conglomerate,  and  is  intersected  by  numerous  small  quarts  veins, 
partly  filled  with  very  small  quarts  crystals,  and  in  other  portions  with  crys- 
tals of  iron  pyrites,  which  under  the  microscope  appear  distinctly  in  the  form 
of  dice  and  pyritohedrons.  There  are  3  kinds  of  this  quarried  porcelain 
stone:  one  white  and  entirely  kaolinised,  which  also  possesses  the  earthy 
character  of  Kaolin;  one  blue  and  rich  in  quarts;  and  a  third  yellow,  and 
containing  iron. 

For  centuries  Arita  furnished  the  most  highly  valued  wares  of  Japan;  its 
porcelain  was  perfectly  uniform,  and  besides  adding  considerable  translu- 
cence  to  pure  white,  was  hard  enough  for  all  the  purposes  of  ordinary  life.  It 
bums  so  easily  that  decorative  art  has  in  its  surface,  as  in  that  of  faience,  a 
fine  field,  and  is  aided  also  by  the  plastic  character  of  the  excellent  material. 
The  earlier  pieces  were  chiefly  large,  urn-shaped,  covered  jars,  or  tattbo  (a 
contraction  of  tmhogane),  called  tea-urns  because  they  served  originally  for 
preserving  tea;  also  of  hemispherical  dishes  or  deep  bowls  {dombur%)t  and 
round,  flat  plates  («ara).  They  were  decorated  with  peonies  and  cluysanthe- 
mums,  small  landscapes,  human  figures  in  red  and  gold,  with  sometimes  a 
little  green.  The  use  of  blue,  violet,  yellow,  and  black  muflle  colors  belongs 
to  a  later  period.  Certain  of  Kaktemon^s  early  masterpieces  were  of  milk- 
white  porcelain,  generally  with  scanty  designs  in  vitrifiable  enamels.  These 
delicate  designs  were  too  tame  for  the  Dutch  traders,  who  suggest^  that  the 
potters  should  add  enamel  decoration  over  the  glaze  to  pieces  alreadly  deco- 
rated with  blue  under  the  glase.  *  There  thus  came  into  existence'  (says  Brink- 
ley)  'the  familiar  Imari-yaki;  the  "  Old  Japan"  of  Western  amateurs;  the 
Ifishiki-de  or  "Brocade  Pattern"  of  the  Japanese  themselves.  It  was  a  bril- 
liant ware,  depending  chiefly  upon  wealth  of  decoration  and  richness  of  color- 
ing. Now  nothing  is  rarer  in  enamel  Imari  porcelain  than  a  good  blue,  and 
nothing  is  commoner  than  a  specimen  in  which  the  decoration  over  the  glase 
gives  evidence  of  great  care  and  skill,  while  the  blue  designs  under  the  glase 
are  blurred  or  of  impure  tone.  In  brilliancy,  purity,  variety,  and  accuracy  of 
application,  the  enamels  of  the  choice  Imari  specimens  have  never  been  sur- 
passed. They  were  always  painted  with  extreme  care,  their  blue  under  glase 
rich  and  clear,  their  red  soft,  uniform,  and  solid.  Ranking  first  amon^  the 
enamels  found  on  the  finest  pieces  is  purple,  a  peculiar  amethystine  tinge, 
verging  upon  lilac.  Then  comes  opaque  yet  lustrous  green,  the  color  of  young 
onion  sprouts,  —  beautiful  enamel,  much  prised  by  the  Japanese,  who  call 
it  tampan  (sulphate  of  copper).  Then  foOows  turquoise  blue,  and  finally 
black,  the  first,  howevra,  being  exceptional.  Add  to  these  red,  grass-green, 
gold  and  blue  ji'oua  couverte),  and  the  palette  alike  of  the  Arita  and  Na- 
beahima  ceramists  is  exhausted.  In  old  pieces  of  Imari  both  enameled  and 
blue-and-white  cracgueU  is  sometimes  found.  The  cracqueli  celadon,  of  which 
quantities  now  appear  in  the  market  under  the  name  of  Hizen-yaki,  is  a 
recent  manxifacture.' 

The  same  authority  wains  ooUeotors  against  elaborately  modeled  and 
highly  decorated  specimens  of  Imari  porcelain  which  are  placed  upon  the 
market  by  unprincipled  dealers  as  examples  of  Kakiemon*s  work.  There 
were  several  generations  of  Kakiemona,  and  the  mere  fact  of  ascribing  a  speoi- 
men  to  Kakiemon  is  sufficient  to  proclaim  the  ignorance  or  dishones^  of 
the  description.  As  for  the  figures  of  ikhly  robed  females  that  have  reoeived 
this  title  in  recent  works  on  Japanese  art,  they  are  manifest  forgeries.  *Ez- 

auisite  specimens  of  enameled  ware  were  produced  at  the  Arita  factories,  but 
lie  workmen  generally  adhered  to  a  eustom  handed  down  from  tho  days  of 
Tokuemon  ama  Kakiemont  —  instead  <rf  making  theli  vaaeb  ^l&i  \kifi^  ^^^ro. 


658    me.S9.    EGG-SHELL  PORCELAIN      Usurde-uakL 

names  or  those  of  the  3rear  periods,  they  either  copied  Chinese  seals  and 
dates,  or  used  a  conventional  ideograph  or  group  of  ideographs,  quite  use- 
less for  purposes  of  identification.  The  amateur  is,  therefore,  without  any 
easy  guide  to  determine  the  a^e  or  maker  of  a  piece.  He  must  look  only  to 
the  quality  of  the  pAte,  the  brilliancy  of  the  enamels,  and  the  purity  ai^  in- 
tensity of  the  blue  under  the  glase.  Any  appearance  of  chiJkiness  in  the 
clay  indicates  youth,  and,  as  a  general  rule,  the  clearer  and  more  metallic  the 
ring  of  the  biscuit,  the  greater  the  age  of  the  piece.  The  color  of  the  blue 
under  the  glase  is  also  a  help.  The  tone  is  richest  and  most  pleasing  in  speci- 
mens manxif actured  during  the  18th  cent. ;  in  vases  of  earlier  date  it  is  often 
impure  and  blurred.  To  very  choice,  elaborate,  and  carefully  finished  exam- 
ples of  enameling  it  will  generally  be  unsafe  to  assign  a  greater  age  than  150 
yrs.,  and  from  what  has  been  stated  above,  the  amateur  will  see  that  the 
c^ors  of  the  enamels  afford  some  slight  assistance:  the  red  should  be  deep 
and  even,  with  a  dull,  rather  than  a  glossy  suriace;  while  lemon-yellow,  pur- 
ple, and  black  in  combination  are  evidences  at  once  of  choice  ware  and  of 
middle-period  (1700-1830)  manufacture.  In  the  wares  of  the  Kakiemon  school 
there  is  found  a  cream-white  surface  sometimes  almost  equal  to  the  ivory- 
white  of  Korea  and  China,  and  this  color  of  the  biscuit  is  another  easily  de- 
tected point.  But  specimens  of  this  sort  belong  to  the  Nabeahima-yakit 
rather  uian  to  genuine  Imari-yaki.  The  biscuit  of  the  latter,  alsoj  ought  to 
be  white,  —  the  whiter  the  better,  —  but  a  perfectly  pure  white  is  seldom, 
if  ever,  found.  This,  however,  may  be  said :  that  a  surface  showing  a  nxarked 
tinge  of  blue  is  not  of  fine  quality,  and  that  the  more  pronounced  the  tinge 
the  less  valuable  the  specimen.  Examined  attentively,  the  glase  of  Jmari" 
yaki  presents  the  appearance  of  very  fine  muslin.  It  is  pitted  all  over  with 
microscopic  p(unts,  which  become  more  and  more  distinct  as  a  later  and  less 
careful  period  of  manufacture  is  approached.  Spur-marks,  3  or  5  in  num- 
ber, the  remains  of  little  clay  pillars  upon  which  the  specimen  was  supported 
in  the  furnace,  are  frequently  found  on  the  bottom  of  plates  and  o&er  flat 
objects,  something  never  seen  on  Chinese  porcelain.'  (Consult  the  Oriental 
8erie»,  vol.  8.) 

Westward  from  Arita  the  rly.  traverses  a  semi-tropical 
region  to  114  M.  Mikawachi^  known  likewise  for  its  potteries. 

Few  Japanese  wares  are  better  known  to  foreign  collectors  than  the  Eg|^- 
shell  Porcelain  (Uait-de-yaki,  or '  thin-burned '  ware)  made  here,  but  attri- 
buted to  the  Arita  factories  and  called  Hizen-^ware.  The  best,  most  finely 
pulverized  and  purified  material  is  used  in  its  manufacture.  The  dishes  and 
cups  are  turned  quite  thin  on  a  sharpened  wooden  gauging-rod,  then  left 
upon  it  several  days  to  dry  in  the  open  air,  when,  like  the  pieces  of  vases, 
they  are  further  turned  on  the  wheel,  though  much  more  thoroughly,  and 
again  burned  in  cases.  There  are  two  chief  varieties,  both  of  great  fineness 
and  purity,  and  both  of  gossamer-like  consistency.  One  is  decorated  with 
blue  under  the  glase;  the  other  with  red,  gold,  and  sometimes  light  blue 
above  the  glase.  Figure  subjects  —  warriors  in  armor  or  courtesans  in 
elaborate  drapery  —  constitute  the  general  decoration,  which  is  seldom  ex- 
ecuted with  any  conspicuoiis  skill.  The  date  of  its  first  production  cannot 
be  fixed  with  absolute  accuracy,  but  authorities  believe  that  it  was  not 
manxifactured  before  the  latter  part  of  the  18th  cent.  A  pretty  conception 
in  the  ware  made  for  export  was  to  protect  the  more  fragile  wine-cups  by 
envelopes  of  extraordinarily  fine  plaited  basket-work  (ajiro-ifwni)  made  in 
Nagasaki  —  whither  the  cups  were  sent  for  sale,  usually  in  nests  of  3,  5,  or  7. 

115  M.  HaiJci  is  the  point  of  departure  for  (5  M.)  Sasebo 
(pop.  93,000),  an  important  naval  station  (Inn:  Ahitrayaf 
¥3.50)  in  Nagasaki-ken  with  a  fine  land-locked  harbor  IJ  M. 
long  by  1  M.  wide.  —  The  rly.  now  curves  broadly  to  the  left 
and  runs  S.E,  along  the  coast  of  the  Gulf  of  Omura.  Nonde- 
script towns,  salt-pits,  and  a  good  automobile  road  are  con- 
apiououa  features.  Beyond  130  M.  Sonogi  the  shore  is  dotted 
with  picturesque  fishing-village^*)  on  \>Vi^  ^vm-warmed  slopes 


Practical  Notes,  NAGASAKI  40.  Route.    659 

of  the  hills  pomegranates  (zakuro)  flaunt  their  flowers  or  their 
reddish-yellow  fruit,  and  the  deep  scarlet  leaves  of  the  vege- 
table-wax trees  form  pleasing  color-notes  against  the  vivid 
green.  — 137  M.  Omttra,  a  garrison  town,  was  from  the  12th 
cent,  onward  the  family  seat  of  the  powerful  Omura  dainty  da; 
the  walls  of  their  old  feudal  castle,  in  a  fine  garden  overlook- 
ing the  bay,  still  stand  to  their  memory,  while  the  thousands 
of  picturesque  tombstones  on  the  sloping  hillsides  mark  the 
graves  of  their  retainers.  The  rly.  now  climbs  up  through  a 
narrow  valley  splendidly  terraced  and  sown  to  rice;  an  occa- 
sional banana  tree  (basho)  advertises  the  semi-tropical  char- 
acter of  the  region.  Beyond  144  M.  Isahaya  (starting-point 
for  Unzeriy  p.  669),  a  wasted  river,  the  Hommyo-gatva,  runs 
down  through  the  ravine,  to  the  sea,  which  soon  comes  into 
view.  The  Ime  is  now  marked  by  many  curves,  timnels,  ter- 
raced hills,  and  massive  retaining-walls.  In  many  of  the  yards 
of  the  tiny  houses  splendid  lotuses  bloom  riotously.  Beyond 
159  M.  MichifUM)  (with  hot  springs),  the  line  leads  down 
through  a  gradually  widening  valley,  with  a  good  auto  road 
and  many  picturesque  water-wheels.  162  M.  Urdkami  is  a 
suburb  of  164  M.  Nagasaki,  which,  with  its  lovely,  hUl-en- 
circled  bay  crowded  with  ships  and  sampans,  is  now  reached. 

40.  Nagasaki  and  its  Environs. 

Arrival.  The  rly.  station  is  in  the  N.  quarter  of  the  city  TPl.  B,  2)  about  1 
M .  from  the  chief  hotels.  No  cabs.  A  tramway  is  under  construction. 
Fare  by  jinriki,  25  sen;  3  or  4  pieces  of  hand-luggage  can  be  piled  into  another 
kuruma  at  the  same  price.  The  hotel  manager  will  have  heavy  luggage 
brought  up  on  a  push-cart  at  an  inclusive  chaige  of  40-50  sen  for  3-4  trunks. 
Rikishas  (p.  Izxxviii)  in  the  town,  15-20  »en  an  hr.  Foreigners  are  charged 
more  than  residents,  and  bargaining  is  always  advisable.  Some  of  the  men 
are  talky,  pert,  and  troublesome;  attaching  themselves  to  travelers  who  wish 
to  stroll  about  the  port,  dogging  their  footsteps,  proffering  information  and 
advice,  and  making  themselves  obnoxious  generally.  Usually  they  can  be 
got  rid  of  by  a  threat  to  appeal  to  the  police.  A  flexible  and  steadily  advanc- 
ing scale  of  prices  applies  to  long  runs  or  out-of-town  trips,  and  a  bargain 
should  be  struck  before  starting  out. 

Hotels  (comp.  p.  xxix).  The  transient  trade  of  Nagasaki  is  too  limited 
to  support  big  hotels  like  those  of  Kobe  or  Yokohama.  The  small  but  com- 
fortable Cliff  House  Hotd  (PI.  B,  4)  is  on  the  hill-slope  £.  of  the  landing,  in 
Saffarimaisu;  English  management  and  cooking;  ¥3.50  a  day  and  upward, 
Am.  pi.  —  Hdtd  Belle  Vue,  near- by;  native  management;  ¥4.50  and  up- 
ward. The  Hdtel  de  Japan;  H,  de  France,  and  others  in  the  aide  sts.  quote 
lower  rates.  Baths  free.  In  summer  the  most  comfortable  rooms  are  those 
which  get  the  S.W.  breeze  —  which  prevails  nearly  every  day  until  the  end 
of  August. 

Climate.  The  winter  climate  is  fine  and  equable.  The  siimmer  months  are 
hot,  but  are  usually  tempered  by  sea-breeses.  In  Aug.-Sept.  these  some- 
times develop  into  typhoons  (p.  Izviii)  which  whip  the  coast  with  unl«- 
strained  fury.  The  re^on  is  OQmparativdy  free  from  earthquakes. 

Banks  (comp.  p.  xxiii)  where  drafts,  etc.,  can  be  cashed  and  money  ex- 
changed: Yokohama  Specie  Bank,  Ltd.,  4  Megakad  (PI.  B,  3);  EngUth 
spoken.  —  Intematiomu  Banking  Co.  — Chartered  Bank  of  India,  Aus/bralia 
and  China.  —  Hongkong  and  Shanghai  Banking  Co.,  aU  on  the  Bund.  The 
MoNXT  Cbanqbbs  have  their  officeii  in  the  aide  its.  .(Comp.  Bi^lmnge, 
p.  xxi.) 


660    Route  Jft.  NAGASAKI  iSftopt. 

Pliotograpliy.  The  travelw  is  cautioned  against  bringiiig  oameraa  ashore 
or  canying  them  through  the  sts.  Nagaaakt  is  a  fortified  port,  and  |>hoto- 
sraphinff ,  sketching,  or  the  making  of  notes  of  topographical  features  is  pro- 
hibited  By  the  War  Department.  The  Military  Sione  extends  for  some  dis* 
tance  roundabout.  Arrest  and  poaaibly  lon^  detention  will  inevitably  result 
if  the  admonition  is  disobeyed.  Professed  isporance  of  the  restrictions  will 
not  av^  one,  as  signs  in  JBnglish  acquaintmg  the  traveler  with  the  ruling 
are  placed  at  many  conspicuous  points  throughout  the  city. 

Ships  of  nearlv  all  the  lines  make  NcigaacM  a  port  of  call  (see  below)  and 
usually  anchor  about  i  M.  from  the  Custom-House  Landing.  In  cases  where 
passengers  are  not  put  ashore  in  the  company's  launch,  a  sampan  can  be 
nired  for  25  sen,  with  an  added  charge  of  5  sen  for  each  extra  person.  Hand- 
luggage,  5  sen  per  package;  trunks,  25  «e»..  The  hotel  hquse-boats  (covered 
sampans)  will  land  travelers  (or  put  thezp  aboard  the  ship)  for  an  inclusive 
charge  of  50  sen  for  2  persons  and  3-4  trunks.  The  offices  of  the  principal 
steamship  lines  are  on  the  Bund  (consult  the  PL  B-C,  3).  The  Osaka  Shosen 
Kaisha  is  near  the  Obata  Landing  (PI.  B,  2).  Ships  of  this  Une  ply  hence  to 
the  chief  ports  of  Korea,  North  China,  Formosa,  etc. 

Cttiio-Snops  (comp.  p.  cxii)  are  many,  with  flexible  prices.  Foreigners  are 
usuidly  asked  much  more  than  the  goods  are  worth  or  the  dealer  expects  to 
receive.  Good  curios  can  be  bought  to  better  advantage  at  Yokohama,  Td- 
Iiyd,  or  Kyoto.  The  manxifacture  of  tortoisenshell  articles  (JbekkS)  is  a  local 
specialtpr.  The  carets,  or  hawk's-bill  sea-turtles,  which  furnish  the  shell  are 
caught  m  limited  numbers  in  the  sea  S.  of  KyQshtL,  and  are  more  plraitiful  in 
the  tropical  water  farther  S.  The  carving  and  shaping  of  the  shell  is  usually 
done  in  small  shops  (several  in  Motokapo-tnachi  and  Punadaiku-maehi)  in  full 
view  of  passers-by.  The  finished  articles  cover  a  wide  range,  from  minia- 
ture war-ships  to  Jinrikis  and  toilet-sets.  The  quality  of  tortoisenshell  de- 
pends mainly  on  the  thickness  and  sise  of  the  scales,  and  in  a  smaller  degree 
upon  the  clearness  and  brilliancy  of  the  colors.  The  traveler  should  assure 
hunself  that  he  is  not  purchasing  skillfully  manipulated  celluloid  or  horn; 
green  shell  that  will  crack  and  split  under  the  influence  of  brusque  climatic 
changes;  small  shells  cunningljr  glued  together  (welded  under  the  pressure  of 
hot  irons)  and  made  to  look  like  large  single  pieces;  very  thin  shell  which 
warps,  or  low-grade  stuff  generally.  —  The  olue-and-white  porcelain  seen  in 
so  many  of  the  shops  comes  from  Hirado. 

Consuls  are  accrc^iited  to  Nagasaki  from  America,  Austria-Hungary,  Bel- 
gium, China,  Denmark,  Germany,  Great  Britain,  France,  Italy,  The  Neth- 
erlands, Norway,  Portugal,  Russia,  Sweden,  and  Switierland;  for  their  ad- 
dresses (apt  to  change)  consult  the  local  Directory. 

Newspapers  (comp.  p.  clvii) .  The  Nagasaki  Press,  published  daily  in  Eng- 
lish (10  sen  a  copy),  contains  foreign  and  local  news  of  interest  to  travelers. 

Nagasaki  (pron.  nahng-ah-^ah'-key),  a  busy  commercial  port 
(pop.  179,000;  of  which  968  are  foreigners)  at  the  S.W.  end 
of  Kyushu  Island,  868  M.  from  Tokyo,  in  Hizen  Province,  is 
the  W.  terminus  of  the  Imperial  Grov't  Rlys.  and  stands  in  lat. 
32°  44'  N.,  and  long.  129°  52'  E.  of  Greenwich.  Its  position  at 
the  N.  extremity  of  the  beautiful  land-locked  Nagasaki  Bay, 
at  the  foot  of  perennially  green  hills  which  rise  in  picturesque 
confusion  behind  it,  is  very  attractive.  It  is  often  made  the 
port  of  entry  for  travelers  from  China,  Manila,  the  East  In- 
dies, and  from  Europe  Vik  the  Suez  Canal,  and  the  stepping- 
off  place  for  tourists  bound  from  Japan  to  those  coun- 
tries. Formerly  it  was  the  chief  point  of  departure  for  Korean, 
Manchurian,  and  North  China  ports,  but  the  fast  express 
service  of  the  Gov't  Rly.  steamers  which  now  ply  between 
ShimonoseH  and  Fusan  have  made  that  port  the  choice  of 
most  travelers.  Its  prestige  declined  materially  after  the  Japan- 
Aussia  War;  prior  thereto  \t  ^«a  \ika  rendezvous  for  many  of 


DeacnpHve.  NAGASAKI  40.  Rouie.    661 

the  ships  of  the  Czar's  Asiatic  Squadron,  and  in  none  of  the 
Nipponese  cities  was  Muscovite  influence  so  marked.  The 
hotels  reaped  a  shining  harvest  from  the  families  of  the  fleet's 
officers  who  wintered  here  to  escape  tiie  rigors  of  the  Siberian 
climate,  and  as  the  Russians  were  high  livers  and  liberal  spend- 
ers, the  tradesmen  were  glad.  Relics  of  this  prosperous  era 
are  the  many  Russian  sign-boards  which  the  traveler  will  note 
above  the  shop-doors;  a  smattering  of  the  language  is  spoken 
by  many  residents  of  the  port.  Formerly,  too,  most  of  the  big 
European  liners  made  Nagasaki  a  regularly  weekly  or  fort- 
nightly port  of  call;  some  of  these  stop  now  out  once  a  month 
—  a  fact  the  traveler  may  wish  to  bear  in  mind  when  making 
his  plans.  He  may  also  want  to  remember  that  the  Nippon 
YtisenKaisha  ships  for  Shanghai  have  their  best  cabins  be- 
spoken well  in  advance  of  the  Aug.-Sept.  season.  At  this  time 
many  foreign  residents  along  the  Chinese  littoral  return  from 
holiaays  spent  at  the  cool  hill-stations  behind  Nagasaki,  and 
the  excellence  of  the  N.Y,K,  ships^  and  the  lower  fares  ^30 
against  ¥37  on  the  less  commodious  ships  of  the  Russian 
Volunteer  Fleet;  and  ¥38.50  on  the  Pacific  Mail  boats)  oper- 
ate in  their  favor. 

The  crescent-shaped  Bund  extends  along  the  water-front 
from  Deshima  (PL  B,  3)  at  the  N.  to  Sagarimatsu  (PL  B,  4)  at 
the  S.,  and  is  flanked  by  the  S.S.  Offices,  Consulates,  Banks, 
and  Business  houses.  The  Custom-House,  the  S.S.  Landing, 
and  the  Post-Office  are  near  the  S.  end  of  Deshima,  The  town 
is  packed  solidly  in  the  narrow  ravines  which  gash  the  hills 
at  the  E.  and  N.E.  of  the  bay.  and  of  the  24,000  houses  many 
have  been  forced  far  up  the  hillsides,  where  they  dispute  the 
land  with  the  temples,  chiurches,  and  graveyards  that  rise  tier 
upon  tier  above  them.  At  the  summit  of  the  hills  are  gov't 
signal-stations  and  adjimcts  of  the  port  fortifications.  The 
attractive  and  delightfully  situated  bungalows  of  the  foreign 
residents  stand  on  flower-decked  terraces  held  in  place  by  mas- 
sive revetments  extending  up  the  slope  from  the  Bund  at  Sor 
garimatsu.  Scores  of  giant  camphor  laurels,  cherry,  vegetable- 
wax,  magnolia,  orange,  conifers,  and  other  trees  overshadow 
the  houses  ana  impart  a  pleasing  coolness.  The  rising  char- 
acter of  the  town  —  the  bulk  of  which  slopes  back  into  a  vast 
amphitheater  formed  by  the  hills  —  gives  a  charming  ap- 
pearance to  it  at  night.  When  the  myriad  stars  which  twinkle 
with  southern  softness  are  reflected  in  the  clear  water  of  the 
bay,  and  challenge  the  blinking  harbor-lights  and  the  thou- 
sands of  electric  Lamps  on  shore,  countless  tiny  eyes  seem  to 
gleam  from  every  point.  When  the  city  lights  are  further 
augmented  by  the  soft  yellow  beams  of  many  Bon  Matsuri 
lanterns,  the  effect  is  b^uiling.  A  number  of  canals  which  at 
eventide  are  thronged  with  house-boats,  sampans,  and  fishing- 
craft  reach  back  into  the  town,  and  are  epasmed  «^\>\n^ia:^^ 


662    Boide  40.  NAGASAKI  flntory. 

by  picturesque,  humped  bridges.  The  several  fi/^-niarkets 
are  of  unfaihng  interest.  The  warm  waters  of  the  coast  pro- 
duce many  curious  piscine  forms,  and  the  democratic  fisher- 
men tackle  eversrthing  that  swims.  —  The  excellent  building- 
stone  employed  in  the  construction  of  many  of  the  houses  in 
the  port  comes  from  Yagami4ake,  whose  trachytic  cone  rises 
(2000  ft.)  a  few  miles  E.  of  the  town. 

The  populous  Chinese  quarter  is  scarcely  worth  visiting, 
but  the  pretentious  and  imposing  Yoshitoara  (see  p.  221)  on 
Maruyama  (PL  C,  3)  presents  a  curious  and  instructive  spec- 
tacle after  nightfall.  .  The  utmost  order  prevails,  and  the  dis- 
trict is  as  safe  as  any  other  part  of  the  port.  In  line  with  the 
custom  prevailing  in  certain  other  cities,  the  sloe-eyed,  statu- 
esque hburis  of  Nagasaki  do  not  always  sit  in  slatted  cages 
facing  the  thoroughfare,  but  at  the  side,  flanking  the  entrance 
to  the  establishment;  to  see  them  one  must  be  sufficiently 
interested  to  advance  a  few  paces  inward  from  the  street. 
Many  of  the  houses  are  threenstoried,  with  quaint  balconies 
and  species  of  hanging  loggias.  When  these  are  decorated  with 
paper  lanterns,  when  throaty^voiced  geisha  sing  the  native 
contralto  songs,  and  the  plaintive  twanging  of  samisen,  the 
swish  of  silken  kimonos  and  the  soft  pit-pat  of  to5t-shod  feet 
are  wafted  out  through  the  fragrant  twilight,  the  effect  is 
strikingly  Oriental  —  and,  to  the  native  mind,  alluring. 

Nagasaki  lacks  the  rich  hinterland  of  Kobe  and  Yokohama, 
and  exports  are  fewer.  They  include  tortoise-shell  wares,  Arita 
porcelains,  vegetable-wax,  coal,  rice,  paper,  dried  lobsters 
and  other  crustaceans,  mushrooms,  sharks'  fins,  biche  de  mer, 
ouxi6i-shell,  tea,  lacquered  wares,  paper-umbrellas,  etc.  A 
cheap  lacquered  ware  inlaid  with  madreperl,  a  coarse  earth- 
enware, jelly  made  from  seaweed  and  called  kin-^yoku-to,  and 
some  of  the  most  luscious  watermelons  in  Japan  are  among  the 
local  specialties.  —  One  of  the  greatest  of  the  port  festivals  is 
the  Bon  Matsuri  or  'Festival  of  the  Dead,'  which  falls  on  July 
13, 14,  and  15,  and  is  here  observed  more  elaborately  and  with 
greater  solemnity  than  at  many  other  places  in  Japan.  During 
the  nights  in  question  thousands  of  the  people  carry  lanterns 
and  decorate  the  ^aves  of  their  dead  with  them,  while  many 
picturesque  and  illuminated  boats  fleck  the  harbor. 

History.    Nagasaki  came  prominently  into  history  in  the  early  years  of  the 

12th  cent,  when  the  district — then  a  nondescript  fishing-village  called  Fttkae 

no  ura  —  formed  a  part  of  the  domain  of  Taira  Norimori,  a  petty  daimyo  of 

that  period.  When  the  powerful  Taira  Clan  was  destroyed  by  Minamoto 

Yoshitaune  in  11^,  Minamoto  Yoritomo  gave  the  feudal  holdings  to  Noffa- 

aaki  Kotaro  (upon  condition  of  military  service)  and  it  remained  in  possession 

of  that  familv  (which  gave  it  its  present  name;  until  the  16th  cent.   In  1550, 

it  passed  under  the  jurisdiction  of  Omura  Sumitada  who,  jealous  of  the  then 

growing  trade  of  the  Dutch  factory  at  Hirado,  opened  it  to  foreign  trade  in 

1568.  After  the JKyHahu  campaign  of  1587,  Toyotomi  Hideyoahi,  obflerving 

the  increased  prosperity  of  the  port,  detached  it  from  the  ddmain  of  the 

Iktimyd  Omura  and  made  it  asi  Imperial  city  under  the  direct  control  of 

the  sndgun.  In  1603^  Tofeugauoa  le^^asu  \^«x!m«i.\yuQ-y)o  (governor)  there  in 

the  name  of  the  shogun  —  the  &ret  ol  «L\ovia>Mift  -wYA^l^^or^^du 


Deshima  Island,  NAGASAKI  40,  Rtnde.    608 

From  1641  to  1858,  Naocaaki  was  the  only  town  in  Japan  where  the  Dutch 
and  the  Chinese  (to  the  exclusion  of  all  other  foreigners)  were  allowed  to 
trade.  It  was  one  of  the  5  ports  opened  to  Europeans  by  the  treaty  (forced 
by  Commodore  Perry  of  the  American  squadron)  of  1857.  From  the  mem- 
orable day  in  1543  when  Fern&o  Mendea  Pinto  and  his  Portuguese  free-lances 
arrived  at  Ntigaaaki  it  has  been  a  sort  of  Far-Eastern  clearing-house  for 
Asia,  Europe,  and  the  Occident;  a  meeting-point  of  nations.  In  the  time  of 
Kaempfer  it  was  one  of  the  richest  and  most  important  seaport  towns  (rf  Ja- 
pan —  made  so  by  trafSc  with  foreigners.  It  is  a  reliquary  of  the  history  of 
foreign  intercourse  with  Japan,  and  the  annals  of  the  place  are  red  with  the 
slaughter  of  the  Christian  martyrs  who  braved  the  ahdgunal  edicts  and  prac- 
ticed the  Jesuit  faith  during  the  Middle  Ages.  Here  a  long  and  saddening 
list  of  unfortunates  were  burned  at  the  stake,  subjected  to  the  water-torture 
or  to  that  of  the  pit,  buried  alive,  beheaded,  tortured,  and  crucified,  between 
the  ^ears  1597  and  1700.  Significant  of  Japan's  attitude  at  that  time  toward 
foreigners  and  the  foreign  faith  was  the  death  of  Luis  Paez  Pctcheeo,  who 
came  here  about  1630  as  chief  of  an  embassy  from  Macao,  to  the  shogun, 
lemitau.  He  was  promptly  beheaded  with  nearly  all  his  companions  — 12 
Portuguese,  4  Spaniards,  17  Chinese,  4  Bengalese,  and  18  Malays;  13  sail- 
ors were  spared  and  sent  back  to  Macao  with  the  information  that 'hence- 
forth any  one  who  would  put  his  foot  on  Japanese  soil,  were  he  the  King  of 
Portugal,  were  he  even  the  God  of  the  Christians,  would  be  put  to  death  '1 
Prior  thereto  (in  1610)  Andrew  Pesaoa  came  to  Nagasaki  in  a  oarack  called 
Madre  de  Dio8,  and  for  3  days  1200  Japanese  endeavored  to  set  the  ship  on 
fire.    Finally  Peeaoa,  deroairing  of  saving  himself,  set  fire  to  the  caslu  of 

gowder  and  blew  up  his  udp,  sending  all  on  board  into  eternity,  along  with 
undreds  of  natives  and  their  junks.  In  1808,  Captain  FUetvoood  Pmew,  oi 
the  English  ship-of-war  Phaeton,  entered  the  bay  to  take  on  a  supply  ojf 
water.  Tl^e  bupyd  of  the  port,  Mataudaira  Yaauhide,  made  strenuous  efforts 
to  bum  the  ship,  and  so  chagtined  was  he  at  his  failure  to  do  so  that  he  and 
5  of  his  military  commanders  committed  harakiri. 

Of  special  interest  to  foreigners  is  the  tiny  island  of  Deshimt  (PI.  B,  3), 
the  restricted  home  of  the  Dutch  representatives  of  the  East  India  Company 
during  more  than  two  centuries  (bcrtween  1641  and  1858),  and  the  most  hi»- 
toric  spot  in  the  early  foreign  history  of  Japan.  Here  Western  civilisation 
first  impinged  on  the  Island  Empire,  later  to  spread  eastward  and  north- 
ward ;  and  here  stood  the  gateway  through  which  came  the  foreign  ideas  and 
articles  later  so  indispensable  to  the  Japanese.  Tobacco  was  first  brought 
here  by  the  Portuguese  in  the  17th  cent.,  and  later  came  cake,  bread  (comp. 
p.  xliii),  soap,  machinery,  firearms,  ardent  spirits,  and  a  host  of  articles  now 
in  daily  use.  From  here  there  went  (in  1662)  the  first  specimens  of  Hizen  por- 
celain that  Europe  ever  saw,  along  with  many  other  curious  Japanese  trink- 
ets and  things  of  worth. — Jamee  Specx,  a  Dutch  envoy,  who  came  to  Japan  in 
1609,  obtained  the  first  commercial  charter  from  Tokugawa  leyaau,  opened  a 
factory  at  HiradOt  and  became  its  first  director.  In  1641,  a  governmental 
decree  caused  the  factory  to  be  transferred  to  Deehima  ('fore  island '),  which 
had  been  formerly  assigned  to  the  Portuguese  (and  from  which  they  were  ex- 
pelled in  1637) .  It  was  then  only  about  600  ft.  long  by  240  broad,  a  piece  of 
land  but  6  ft.  above  high  tide,  reclaimed  from  the  bay,  separated  by  a  narrow 
channel  from  the  town  and  connected  therewith  by  a  little  stone  bridge,  at 
the  end  of  which  was  a  gate,  to  enable  the  communication  to  be  strictly 
watched.  On  this  restricted  bit '  of  territory,  guarded  and  ^  confined  like 
prisoners  or  thieves,  constantly  subjected  to  the. most  humiliating  official 
arrogance  and  restrictions,  from  16  to  20  Dutchmen  were  allowed  to  live  and 
carry  on  their  trade  with  Japan.  On  the  islet  were  the  dwellings  of  the  offi- 
cials, —  the  chief  of  whom  Dore  the  title  of  Resident,  —  the  storerooms,  a 
small  botanical  garden,  and  a  tin^  open  square  upon  which  the  Dutch  flag 
was  hoisted.  At  first  only  one  ship  came  yearly  from  Batavia,  but  later  8 
were  allowed  entrance.  European  goods  of  various  kinds  were  exchanged  ipt 
gold,  silver,  copper,  silk,  camphor,  porcelain,  and  other  native  produotioni, 
with  fat  profits  to  the  wily  Hollanders.  The  average  yeady  turnover  In  esti- 
mated at  £660,000.  The  natives  were  not  as  shrewd  at  barter  then  as  way 
are  now,  but  what  the  Dutchmen  wrung  from  them  in  profits  the  Nippoibflie 
took  out  of  their  pride.  Referring  to  the  degrading  position  of  impriMininttrit 
in^rased  upon  them  at  DssAtma,  Kaemji^er  writes:  !in  thisaervicft'w^  Vvt^NA 


664    Route  40.  NAGASAKI  Dutch  Tradm. 

put  up  with  many  iniulting  regulatioiu  at  the  hands  of  these  proud  beatheni. 
We  may  not  keep  Sundays  or  feast-days,  or  allow  our  spirituaThymxis  or  pny- 
ers  to  be  heard;  never  mention  the  name  of  Christ;  nor  carry  with  us  any  le- 
presentation  of  the  cross  or  any  external  signs  of  Christianity.  Besides  these 
things  we  have  to  submit  to  many  other  insulting  imputations,  which  are 
always  painful  to  a  noble  heart.  The  only  reason  which  impels  the  Dutch  to 
IxMur  all  these  sufferings  so  patiently  is  simply  the  love  of  gain  and  of  the 
precious  marrow  of  the  Japanese  mountains/ 

In  addition  to  the  Japanese  guard  at  the  entranoe|i;ate  to  Deahitnat  there 
was  exhibited  upon  a  great  notice-board  the  regulations  (ibin«ateu)  with  re- 
l^tfd  to  the  Deakimormachi  ('Deshima  Street ').  No  women,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  prostitutes,  might  set  foot  upon  the  soil;  few  priests  and  bonses,  and 
no  b^E^ars.  No  one  was  permitted,  upon  any  pretext  whatever,  to  come  in  a 
boat  within  the  palisades  or  under  the  bridge;  finally,  no  Dutchman  was  to 
leave  De»hima  without  proper  reasons  or  except  within  the  prescribed  time. 
The  Resident  had  to  journey  once  a  year  to  Yedo,  to  dRet  the  ahooun  his  re- 
spects and  presents.  The  day  fixed  for  his  departure  was  the  4th  or  5th  of 
March;  on  these  occasions  he  traveled  as  a  daimyo,  and,  like  the  governor 
who  accompanied  him,  in  a  palanquin  {norimono)^  the  other  higher  officials  in 
basket-litters  {Jc<ioo)  or  on  horseback.   He  was  usually  accompanied  by  his 
Dutch  secretary  and  the  physician  of  the  little  colony.  The  procession  con- 
sisted of  fr(Hn  100  to  200  persons,  principally  bearers,  and  included  various 
Japanese  offidals,  among  them  interpreters  and  spies.  The  rooms  of  the  hos* 
telries  at  which  they  halted  on  the  way  were  locked  and  guarded. 

During  their  stay  in  Yedo  they  were  allowed  no  freedom  of  movement 
On  the  day  of  audience,  the  presents  for  the  Court  had  to  be  set  out  in  the 
room  of  tiie  palace  appointed  for  the  purpose,  and  invitations  were  issued  to 
view  them.  Among  them  were  Spanish  wines,  Edam  cheese,  linens,  silki, 
and  other  European  productions.  At  the  audience,  which  took  place  in  the 
Hall  of  a  Hundred  Mats,  the  Dutch  Resident  was  summoned  to  oner  his  rev- 
erence to  the  ihogun^  who  usually  sat  behind  a  curtain;  the  Resident  crept 
forward  on  his  hands  and  feet,  and  falling  on  his  knees  bowed  his  head  to  toe 
ground,  and  retired  again  in  absolute  silence,  crawling  exactly  like  a  crab. 
When  this  exhibition  was  over,  the  envoys  were  led  farther  into  the  pdaoe, 
to  give  the  women  and  the  rest  of  the  Court  the  pleasure  of  beholding  tJ^sm, 
in  which  amusement  the  ah6gun  also  shared.  The  Resident  then  remained 

Eassive,  and  the  rdle  of  Kaempfer  and  the  secretary  began.  It  was  a  monkeys 
ke  comedy  which  the  ahogun  called  for.  'Now '  (writes  Kaempfer)  *  we  had 
to  rise  and  walk  to  and  fro,  now  to  exchange  compliments  with  each  other, 
then  to  dance,  jump,  represent  a  drunken  man,  speak  broken  Japanese^ 
paint,  read  Dutch  and  German,  sing,  put  on  our  cloaks  and  throw  them  off 
again,  etc.;  I  for  my  share  singing  a  Grerman  love  ditty.'  *K<umpfer '  (sayi 
Dr.  Rein)  *  appears  to  have  had  the  reputation  of  a  good  singer,  for  upon 
other  occasions  also  he  was  invited  to  sing  a  song,  to  take  part  with  the  Seo* 
retary  in  representing  various  modes  of  behavior  in  Holland,  and  to  do  such 
other  things  as  might  serve  for  entertainment  and  for  the  gratification  of 
curiosity.  When  the  representative  of  the  Dutch  Company  (contemptu- 
ously called  a  red-haued  barbarian)  took  his  leave  of  the  Court,  he  had  to 
bind  himself  not  to  enter  into  any  connection  with  the  Kirishitan-»hu  (Chris- 
tian sect,  i.e..  Catholics),  not  to  bring  any  missionaries  into  the  country, 
and  every  year  to  give  the  Court  such  information  as  to  the  Christian  sect  as 
should  be  of  interest  to  the  ahdgun.  *  For  nearly  150  years  the  entire  intel- 
lectual 'Stimulus  which  Japan  received  through  the  Dutch  was  limited  to 
what  was  offered  here  and  there  by  Dutch  industrial  productions,  such  as 
barometers  and  thermometers,  docks  and  other  objects.  Then  began  the 
studsr  of  the  Dutch  language  and  the  distribution  of  Dutch  books,  but  it  wtf 
only  in  the  19th  cent.,  when  the  old  edicts  against  foreigners  were  less  stiin- 

Sintly  enf orcedf  that  more  Uf e  was  infused  into  the  study.  Dutch  books  and 
ustrations,  chiefly  of  a  medical  and  technical  character,  were  here  and  there 
roaringly  introduced,  and  conveyed  new  ideas  to  the  thinking  and  energetie 
Japanese,  especially  to  several  physioians.  They  diligently  studied  ana- 
tomy, learnt  venesection  from  the  Dutch,  the  Ltnrusan  and  other  botaniosl 
gyatems  from  Von  Siebold,  and  much  else.  In  the  first  half  of  the  19th  cent, 
blast-furnaces  and  milla  were  etectied  after  Dutch  plans,  and  many  oth^  indor 
trial  inventions  were  introduoed.  Ytwi\an*\aVftAfifetftd  to  Dutoh  '-" 


KAEMPFER,  THUNBERG,  AND  VON  SIEBOLD    6ft5 

for  many  improvements,  and  even  steam-ensines,  the  telegraph,  and  other 
pvtxiuots  of  modem  d^nUisation,  first  became  known  to  Japan  in  this  way.* 
Among  the  real  benefits  to  Japan  and  the  world  at  large  derived  from  the 
Dutch  East  India  Company  was  the  sending  by  this  company  to  Japan  of 
such  men  as  Kaempfer,  Thunbergt  and  Von  SiebM,  all  of  whom,  it  seems, 
came  out  as  surgeons  to  the  Deahima  colony. 

Engelbrecht  Saemirfer  (a  German  physician,  b.  1651 ;  d.  1716)  came  to 
Japan  in  Sept.,  1690,iand  remained  a  little  over  2  years.  'Though  he  did  not 
neglect  the  natural  sciences,  and  particularly  botany,  ^t  his  greater  merit 
lies  in  his  contributions  to  history^  and  the  history  of  civilisation.  There  can 
be  no  higher  testimony  to  his  chief  works  (the  Atnatnitatea  ExoHob  and  H\»- 
toria  imperii  japonici  gennanice  «cr«pto),  than  that  now,  after  more  than  200 
years,  and  when  so  much  has  been  written  about  Japan  since  it  has  been 
opened  to  foreigners,  every  one  who  knows  Japan  is  still  glad  to  read  them, 
and  is  convinced  of  the  trustworthiness  of  their  author.* 

Karl  Peter  Thunberg  (a  Swedish  botanist,  b.  1743;  d.  1828),  Director  of 
the  Dutch  factory  at  Deshima  in  1775,  was  the  first  naturalist  of  importance 
who  opened  to  the  world  the  magnificent  Japanese  flora.  His  name  is  in- 
timately associated  with  many  of  the  loveliest  ornamental  plants  now  found 
in  Europe  and  America.  He  was  a  minute  and  erudite  -observer,  and  a  pupil 
of  LinruBus.  Chief  among  his  numerous  works  are  his  Flora  JaponieOt  Flora 
Capenai8,  and  Iconea  plantarum  Japonicarum. 

Philipp  Franz  von  Siebold  (a  G^man,  b.  1796;  d.  1866),  came  to  Naga' 
»aki  in  Aug.,  1823,  and  in  1826  went  to  Y'edo  to  obtain  permis8i<m  to  stay 
in  order  to  give  lessons  in  medicine  and  surgery.  He  was  later  permitted  to 
travel  in  the  interior  on  condition  that  he  womd  make  neither  sk^ches  nor 
maps.  He  was,  however,  able  to  get  a  map  of  Japan  drawn  by  a  native  art- 
ist, but  was  imprisoned  for  it.  He  was  released  in  1830,  and  was  forbidden 
ever  again  to  set  foot  on  Japanese  soil;  30  jrears  later  he  returned,  sent  by 
his  gov't  on  a  semi-official  mission  which  failed.  Rarelv  has  an  individtial 
been  so  successful  in  gathering  so  much  and  such  varied  information  worth 
knowing  about  a  foreign  country,  and  in  bringing  it  to  the  knowledge  of 
Europe,  as  he  has  in  idaNippon,Archiv  tur  BMchreibung  von  Japan,  his  Florar- 
and  Fauna-Japonica;  Bildiotheca  Japonica,  and  Calalogtta  liororum  Japoni- 
eorum.  —  Commemorative  monuments  to  all  of  the  above  scholars  stand  in 
the  grounds  of  OautoaPark. 

The  Buddhist  Temples  (tera)  and  ShintO  Shbines  (miya) 
of  Nagasahiy  though  characteristic  of  the  two  cults  in  archi- 
tecture and  fitments,  are  less  ornate  than  similar  structures  in 
Kyoto  and  other  cities  of  E.  Japan.  A  number  of  the  former 
occupy  commanding  sites  on  the  hill-slopes  overlooking  the  E. 
quarter  of  the  port;  those  mentioned  below  are  perhaps  the 
most  interesting. 

The  Dai-on-ji  (PI.  C,  2)  is  the  most  elaborately  decorated; 
the  polychromatic  wood  panels  of  the  architrave  carry  designs 
of  Buddhist  angels,  drisigons,  waves,  and  the  Gods  of  the  Four 
Directions,  done  in  a  modest  way  by  local  workmen.  The 
carved,  gilded,  and  seated  wood  figure  of  the  richly  gilt  central 
shrine  is  Shaka,  The  usual  Buddhist  insignia  —  candelabra, 
incense-burners,  and  lotus  flowers,  all  of  metal  —  stand  be- 
fore the  central  altar;  the  TokugawacreBt  is  in  evidence  on  the 
drapery  and  screens.  The  gilded  mortuary  tablets  are  of  dead 
notables.  The  most  striking  objects  of  the  interior  are  the  ma»* 
sive  uprights  and  cross-beams  of  splendid  keyaki^woody  stained 
a  deep  Indian  red  and  sculptured  in  intricate  designs:  above 
the  latter  are  some  crisply  carved  panels,  in  the  natural  wood, 
with  dragon  designs.  At  the  right  of  the  temple  BtA&dii 


666    Route  40.     NAGASAKI  TEMPLES         (huwa-jir^ 

The  Daiko-ji,  a  new,  spotless  fane  popular  with  the  Chinese; 
some  fine  old  camphor  trees  grow  in  the  yard,  hard  by  a  bel- 
fry with  a  bronze  oell.  The  crest  chiseled  on  the  door  is  the 
ktrirno-monf  of  the  Pavlownia  impericdis.  The  view  over  the 
city  and  bay,  from  the  terrace,  is  attractive.  Inside  the  tem- 
ple are  some  skillfully  carved  wood-panels  with  foliated  lo- 
tuses; some  gilded  screens  showing  bamboos  and  pine  trees; 
and  a  plain  coffered  ceiling  from  which  i)end  a  number  of  metal 
.  lanterns.  —  Farther  along  the  terrace  is  a  group  of  decaying 
Chinese  temples  known  collectively  as 

The  S6fuku-ji,  approached  through  a  lofty  gateway  show- 
ing traces  of  former  beauty.  The  immense  rusted  iron  caul- 
dron in  the  yard  was  used  to  boil  rice  in  during  a  great  famine 
in  the  17th  cent.  The  interiors  of  the  buildings  are  so  faded  as 
to  be  uninteresting.  The  Kiyomizu-dera,  the  Nakamiya^  Inarif 
and  other  temples  on  the  same  hillside  are  not  worth  visiting. 
Behind  and  roimdabout  them  spread  extensive  graveyard 
with  upright,  moss-grown  granite  tombs  that  resemble  a  stone 
fence  when  viewed  from  far  below.  During  certain  festival 
times,  lighted  lanterns  are  suspended  near  them,  and  their 
number  produces  a  weird  effect. 

The  Osuwa-jinja,  in  the  O-Suwa  Kden^  in  the  N.E.  quar- 
ter (PI.  C,  1),  is  better  known  to  foreigners  as  the  Bronze 
Horse  Temple,  for  a  bizarre  bronze  horse  (evidently  designed 
by  a  blind  artist)  in  the  temple  yard,  presented  by  the  towns- 
folk in  1871 ;  the  elaborate  bronze  scroll  near  by  bears  the 
names  of  those  who  aided  and  abetted  in  bringing  the  travesty 
into  existence.  Near  the  foot  of  the  (196)  stone  steps  which 
lead  from  the  street  up  beneath  stone  torii  to  the  final  terrace, 
on  which  the  shrine  stands,  is  a  magnificent  bronze  tcyrii  (33  ft. 
high,  38  across  the  top,  13  in  circumference,  and  16  between 
the  two  bases)  which  ranks  as  one  of  the  largest  in  Japan  (made 
at  iheMUsu  Bishi  Dockyard  and  presented  to  the  shrine  in  the 
27th  year  of  Meiji).  Its  splendid  proportions  are  so  hemmed  in 
by  the  flanking  houses  that  they  cannot  be  seen  to  the  best 
advantage.  Two  handsome  gray  granite  lanterns  stand  below, 
and  3  smaller  stone  torii  beyond.   The  seated  carved  wood  fig- 
ures at  the  right  and  left,  are  Udaijin  and  Sadaijin,  The  two 
bronze  Dogs  of  Fo  which  guard  the  entrance  are  worth  looldng 
at.  The  august  deities  worshiped  here  are  supposed  to  inhabit 
the  holier  shrines  which  stand  behind  the  outer  structures.  The 
two  polychromatic  paintings  on  wood  which  hang  at  the  right 
and  left  of  the  altar  refer  to  a  curious  festival,  the  Suwa-mo- 
Matsuri  (or  Ku-nichi)  which  customarily  falls  on  Oct.  7,  8,  and 
9,  of  each  year.  Great  preparations  are  made  beforehand,  and 
not  a  little  excitement  prevails. 

At  the  appointed  time  the  spirits  of  the  tutelar  deities  are  invited  to  enter 
^rgfi,  heavy,  ornately  laoquer^  palanquins,  or  portable  shrines  (Irept  in 
locked  godomiB  until  wanted) ,  '«\i\c\\,  on  \2tA  7\.\x,  «xe  c€irried  at  heaiuoi« 


Osuwa  Park,  NAGASAKI  BAY         40.  Bouie.    667 

speed,  by  a  hundred  or  more  lusty  men,  down  the  196  steps,  thence  through 
the  narrow  streets  (route  yariable)  to  the  Ohato  wharf,  where  a  temporary 
shrine  has  been  erected  for  their  reception.  There  they  remain  for  two  days 
and  nights,  to  be  worshiped  by  the  populace.  On  the  9th  they  are  returned 
in  a  like  manner,  on  a  dead  run  up  the  steps  to  the  shrine,  amidst  a  wild 
uproar  not  always  free  from  personal  encoimters.  If  the  bearers  neiUier 
stumble  nor  fall  in  their  mad  rush  down,  and  their  risky  dash  up  the  steps,  good 
luck  will  mark  the  ensuing  year;  earthquakes  and  similar  disasters  wiUremain 
away;  and  bountiful  crops  will  be  the  order  of  the  day.  The  gorgeous  cere- 


monial robes  of  the  priests  (who  ride  on  white  horses),  the  costumes  of  the 

dng-girls,  and  otlw 
esque  and  worth  see 
and  Juggling,  theatricals,  and  different  sports  are  indulged  in.  Travelers  for- 


dandng-girls,  and  other  features  combine  to  make  the  festival  highly  piotur- 
me  and  worth  seeing.  Stands  are  erected  at  various  points  along  the  route. 


tunate  enough  to  secure  an  invitation  (through  one's  consul)  from  the  gov- 
ernor of  the  ken,  can  not  only  witness  the  performances  from  a  specially  pre- 
pared coign  of  vantage,  and  thus  be  spared  the  crush  of  the  crowd,  but  also 
participate  in  the  elaborate  luncheon  prepared  for  the  occasion. 

Osuwa  Park  is  a  restful  spot  embowered  in  fine  cherry,  pine, 
maple,  camphor,  vepetable-wax,  and  flowering  trees.  Of  spe- 
cial interest  to  Amencans  are  the  two  trees  hard  by  a  stone  sUb 
bearing  Uie  following  inscriptio]>  (dated  June  22,  1879) :  — 

At  the  request  of  Governor  UUumi  TadakaUu,  Mrs.  Qrant  and  I  each 
plant^  a  tree  in  the  Nagasaki  Park.    I  hope  that  both  trees  may  prosper, 

grow  larger,  Uve  long,  and  in  their  growth,  prosperity  and  long  Ufe  be  em- 
lematic  of  the  future  ef  Japan.    U.  8,  Grant. 

At  the  left  is  a  bronze  statue  and  a  bust  of  local  celebrities; 
farther  along  is  a  large  school  where  one  may  often  see  young 
men  and  women  practicing  fencing  and  more  intricate  passes 
of  jvdo.  On  a  terrace  below  are  stone  slabs  to  the  memory  of 
Kaempferf  Thunberg,  and  Baron  von  Siebold,  The  Commer- 
cial Museum,  at  the  left,  is  of  scant  interest.  By  turning  to 
the  left  and  following  the  narrow  thoroughfare  leading  N.E. 
from  the  main  steps  to  the  Osuworjinja  one  reaches,  aiter  a  20 
min.  walk  (1  M.)i 

The  Waterworks,  at  the  N.E.  limit  of  the  town,  high  in 
the  green  hills.  The  street  soon  merges  into  the  country  road 
whicn  winds  past  the  reservoirs  — a  series  of  repressed  lakes 
hemmed  in  by  massive  stone  walls  that  stretch  across  a  nar- 
row ravine.  Thef  townspeople  consider  the  water  (which  comes 
from  springs  higher  in  tne  hills)  of  unimpeachable  quaJity,  but 
the  observant  traveler  will  not  fail  to  note  that  the  dwellings, 
paddy-fields^  and  adjacent  gardens  rest  on  a  slope  which  drains 
into  the  ravme  where  the  reservoirs  lie. 
.  The  Bay  (wan)  or  harbor,  one  of  the  best  and  deepest  (15 
fathoms)  in  Japan,  is  a  large  and  conunodious  inlet  completely 
sheltered  and  siUTounded  by  green  hills  (from  ICXK)  to  1500  ft. 
high),  fortified  with  batteries  of  gims.  Some  of  these  heights 
have  an  unfortimate  reputation  among  Christians,  for  on 
them,  in  times  gone  by,  many  adherents  of  the  faith  were 
crucified,  burned  at  the  stake,  or  otherwise  martyred.  On 
Feb.  5,  1597,  three  t^ortuguese  Jesuits,  17  Japanese  converts, 
and  6  Spanish  Franciscans,  among  them  San  Felipe  de  Jesus^ 
Meuco's  protomartyr,  were  crucified  and  bxitike^  V5W1  H^^^tv- 


668    Route  40.  NAGASAKI  ExcwrsioM. 

Uama,  the  'Saint  Hill '  of  foreigners),  and  on  Sept.  10, 1622,  30 
more  were  beheaded,  and  25  burned  amid  such  physical  an- 
guish that  the  occurrence  is  known  as  the  Great  Majrtyrdom.^ 
At  the  W.  side  of  the  harbor,  at  the  left  of  the  entrance  is 
the  historical  Taka-hoko  Island,  an  imperishable  memorial  of 
Christian  steadfastness  in  a  time  of  great  tribulation.  From 
this  point,  during  the  period  when  the  fickle  Hideyoshi  was 
employing  all  his  great  power  to  extirpate  Christianity  in 
Japan,  may  hundreds  of  tortiured  and  faithful  Christians  were 
once  cast  into  the  sea.  The  Dutch  accordingly  called  it 
Papenberg.  Many  of  the  hills  are  now  laid  out  in  carefully 
cultivated  terraces,  whose  edges  are  planted  with  vegetable- 
wax  trees.  From  the  narrow,  winding,  picturesque  entrance 
to  the  bay,  which  here  is  about  }  M.  wide,  the  harbor  trends 
N.E.  for  2  M.  At  certain  times  the  bav  resembles  one  vast 
coaling-station,  as  steamships  usually  fill  their  bunkers  here 
with  uie  excellent  KyushU  coal  mined  in  the  neighborhood. 
The  port  has  the  reputation  of  being  one  of  the  (^[uickest  coaling- 
places  in  Japan.  The  work  is  done  in  a  primitive  but  extraor- 
dinarily speedy  manner  by  hundreds  of  men  and  women  who 
stand  on  lines  of  temporary  platforms  or  steps  swung  ladder- 
wise  over  the  ship's  side.  Helpers  in  the  lighters  below  fill 
small  round  baskets  with  the  fine  coal  and  screenings  and  pass 
them  up  the  line  like  buckets  of  water  at  a  fire.  The  capacious 
bunkers  of  a  big  ship  can  be  filled  in  this  way  in  a  few  hours. 
The  record  is  said  to  be  held  by  one  of  the  Empress  ships  of  the 
Canadian  Pacific  Railway  CoJs  Royal  Mail  Line,  which  took 
in  the  extraordinary  amount  of  2100  tons  in  6i  hrs.  —  which 
is  at  the  rate  of  309  tons  per  hour,  or  over  5  tons  a  minute! 
Across  the  harbor  from  Nagasaki  are  the  Akuno-ura  Enr 

S'ne  Works,  and  the  Mitsubishi  Dockyards,  the  latter  one  of  the 
rgest  of  its  kind  in  Nippon.  It  was  estabUshed  in  1856  by 
the  Tokugawa  shogunate,  under  the  tutelage  of  Dutch  engi- 
neers, but  was  transferred  to  the  Mitsubishi  Co,  in  1877;  since 
then  its  growth  has  been  rapid.  Battleships 'and  ocean-going 
steamers  of  large  tonnage  are  built  here  (ships  like  the  Tenyo 
Maru  and  the  Chiyo  Maru  of  the  Toyo  Risen  Kaisha)  and 
upward  of  5000  men  are  employed.  There  are  3  dry-docks,  sal- 
vage steamers,  etc. 

Walks.  Many  delightful  walks  are  possible  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the 
port.   A  short  and  popular  one,  whence  sweeping  views  are  obtainable,  leads 

1  San  Felipe  de  las  Casaa  was  but  22  years  old  when  he  died  for  his  belief. 
It  is  said  that  he  endured  his  sufferings  with  such  saintly  fortitude  that  on 
Sept.  14, 1627,  he  was  canonised  by  a  Papal  Bull  of  Pope  Urban  VIII.  Pa- 
pal  delegates  from  all  parts  of  the  civilized  world  assembled  at  Rome  on  the 
occasion,  and  splendid  processions  were  held  in  the  martyr's  honor.  In  1629, 
he  was  declared  the  Patron  Saint  of  Mexico  and  .New  Spain.  A  splendid 
church  stands  to  his  memory  on  the  Avenida  de  San  Francisco^  at  the  Mezi- 
can  capital  (where  he  is  known  as  El  Glorioainmo  Mdrtir  del  Japan),  and  one 
of  the  finest  altars  of  the  Mexico  Cit:^  C&thedral  is  dedicated  to  mm.  The 
remainder  ol  the  martjrrs  wete  casiomiod  Va\^'i\i^  P«^  Piua  IX, 


NAGASAKI  TO  UNSEN     40.  Route,    669 

up  past  the  Cliff  Hotue  Hotel  to  the  Catholic  church  (Noire  Dame  du  Japan), 
where  turn  to  the  right  and  proceed  along  the  well-kept  terrace-walk  (Mina* 
mtyamcUe)  overlooking  the  bay.  Many  foreign  residences  fiUtnk  the  hillsides 
at  the  left.  A  multiplicity  of  footoatns  lead  up  and  over  the  various  hiUs, 
and  weeks  would  be  required  to  explore  them  all.  A  stroll  up  thrcMigh  the  na- 
tive town,  at  the  left  of  the  hotels,  brings  one  to  a  quarter  which  recalls  Na- 
ples and  other  Mediteranean  ports.  The  continuous  rise  has  necessitated 
steps,,  and  long  and  constantly  recurring  flights  of  these  piece  out  the  street 
and  impart  an  Oriental  picturesqueness  to  them.  Scores  of  quaint  lanes  and 
by-paths  branch  off  from  the  mam  thoroughfares  to  tiny  terraces  held  up  by 
stone  retaining-walls  enveloped  in  ferns  and  vines,  and  upon  which  stand 
small  native  dwellings  with  superb  views  to  recommend  them.  Each  house 
seems  ready  to  topple  over  on  its  neighbor  below,  or  be  crushed  by  those 
higher  up. 

The  road  to  the  suburban  town  of  (2  M.)  Urakami  leads  past  the  rly.  sta- 
tion. The  Catholic  community  is  of  historic  interest  in  that  the  seeds  of  Chris- 
tianity planted  here  centuries  ago  flourished  in  secret  during  all  the  troublous 
years  when  those  who  openly  professed  the  faith  were  martyred.  The  knowl- 
edge of  its  existence  did  not  come  to  light  until  about  the  middle  of  the  19th 
cent.;  then  the  Christians  were  ferreted  out  and  subjected  to  considerable 
suffering.  The  erudite  Baron  von  Siebold  lived  near  Urakami  for  a  time. 

MogCa  small  port  overlookinjs  the  Gtdf  of  Omura,  5  M.  S.E.  of  Naoaeaki, 
is  a  popular  resort  and  is  oftentimes  made  the  point  of  departure  for  Uneen 
(see  oelow).  Steamer  across  Chijima  Bay  to  Obama  in  about  3  his.  (¥1, 1st 
cl.) .  The  road  to  Mogi  leads  out  through  the  £.  quarter  of  the  port  (PI.  C,  3), 
thence  over  the  hills  and  across  a  wide  valley  dotted  with  rice^fields,  bamboo 
groves,  and  farmsteads  with  busy  water-wheels;  Jinriki  (2  men)  for  the  round 
trip,  ¥2.40.  ;  time,  about  3  hrs.  A  tramway  is  in  process  of  building.  Mogi 
Hotel,  ¥2.50LAm.  pi. 

Kwannon  Waterfall,  10  M.  N.E.  of  Nagaeaki,  near  Yagami  village;  Jinriki 
with  2  men,  ¥4.  The  road  leads  past  the  Waterworks  and  over  the  crest 
(good  views)  of  Hitne  Paea,  thence  downward  through  a  long  valley  to  Uie 
village,  where  it  turns  left.  The  waterfall  and  the  temple  near  it  are  not 
worth  a  special  trip  (which  occupies  a  iMig  day). 

Unzen  (or  Unsen),  a  hill-fitation  on  the  slope  of  Unzen-dake, 
on  the  ShimabaraPeninsvlaf  E.  of  Nagasakif  is  a  popular  sum- 
mer resort  for  foreign  residents  of  Shanghai  and  omer  China 
ports,  who  begin  to  fore^ther  here  (usually  about  300  each 
season)  in  June  and  remain  till  Oct.  During  this  period  hotel 
accommodations  are  apt  to  be  scarce  and  they  should  be 
arranged  for  in  advance.  IVavelers  from  the  N.  customarily 
alight  at  Isahaya Station  on  the  Tokaidd  Rly.,  and  proceed  over 
the  Shimabara  Rly,  to  (40  min.)  Aitau,  whence  jmrikis  carry 
one  (2  men  at  ¥1.20  each,  in  2  hrs. — hashay  25  sen)  to  Chijitva 
( Chijiwa  Hotel,  ¥3.50  a  day  and  up,  Am.  pi.),  where  chairs  are 
in  waiting  (4  coolies  at  76  sen  each)  for  the  7  M.  trip  (uphill) 
to  (2  hrs.)  Unzen  village.  Good  walkers  can  make  tne  trip  in 
less  time.  The  going  is  good,  and  the  scenery  attractive.  An 
alternate  way  is  to  proceed  irom  Nagasaki  to  Obama  (Obama 
Hotel,  Ikkakuro  Hotel,  ¥3  and  up.  Am.  pi.),  thence  (in  a  chair, 
4  men  at  75  sen  each  —  pack-horse  for  luggage,  75  sen)  to  the 
(7  M.  in  2i  hrs.)  village.  The  route  is  better  than  that  from 
Chijiwa,  Obama  itself  is  a  favorite  resort ;  the  chalybeate  waters 
(106°  to  lOO**  F.)  of  its  springs  being  considered  efficadouB  in 
rheumatic  ailments.  There  are  several  good  native  inns  (from 
¥2  and  up  a  day)  and  from  the  slope  on  which  the  town  stands 
fine  views  are  had  of  Omara  Bay, 


670    fife.  4a.     SHIMABARA  PENINSULA 

Umen  is  the  name  of  the  district  wherein  lie  the  small  ham- 
lets of  FuruyUj  Shinyuj  and  Kojigoku  ('Little  Hell').  Shinyu 
is  generally  the  objective  point  of  foreign  visitors.  The  Un- 
zerty  Tdkahiy  Yumeif  and  Shinyu  HotelSj  all  under  native 
management  (English  spoken),  supply  foreign  food  at  from 
¥2.50  and  upward  a  day.  Am.  pi.  Special  rates  for  a  long  stay. 
The  Midori-ya  Inn  at  Kojigoku  is  well  spoken  of.  The  entire 
region  abounds  in  fine  walks,  most  of  which  lead  to  hot  springs. 
The  air  is  cool  and  bracing.  Umen-dakej  on  the  slope  of 
which  the  hamlets  (2550  ft.)  cluster,  is  4380  ft.  high  and  was 
an  active  volcano  in  1792.  Many  solfataras  bubble  and  hiss 
from  its  flanks,  and  the  rotten  ground  about  them  (guide  nec- 
essary) and  the  numerous  fumaroles  must  be  trodden  with 
caution.  Superheated  steam  and  sulphurous  gases  rise  from 
them  constantly.  Chief  among  the  small  geysers  is  the '  Loud 
Wailing.'  The  Chuto  JigokUf  or  *  Second-class  Hell '  maintains 
its  title  by  ejecting  water  at  a  temperature  of  204®  F. 

Shimabara,  chief  town  (E.  side)  of  the  Shimabara  Pernnsidaf 
with  20,000  inhabs.  (Inn :  Chikugoyaf^f2.50) ,  lies  a  short  distance 
E.  of  Unzen,  SmaU  steamers  ply  from  Nagasaki  at  frequent 
intervals,  and  proceed  12  M.  across  the  Shimabara  Gvlf  to 
Hyakkanishi,  in  Higo  Province,  where  one  is  in  touch  with  the 
rly .  (Rte.  41 ) .  Shimabara  is  a  fateful  word  in  the  annals  of  Chris- 
tianity in  Japan,  for  the  most  sanguinary  persecution  of  Chris- 
tians to  be  met  with  in  its  history  took  place  in  1637,  at  Arima, 
in  the  S.  of  the  peninsula. 

The  RisiNQ  (or  Massacre)  of  Shimabara  was  a  desperate  revolt  against  the 
inhuman  tortures  to  which  Christians  had  for  20  years  or  more  been  sub- 
jected by  cruel  dairtiyoa.  'The  persecutors  were  not  content  with  the  ordi- 
nary modes,  of  hanging,  crucifjdng,  drowning,  beheading,  but  flung  the  vio- 
tims  down  from  high  precipices,  buried  them  alive,  had  them  torn  asunder  by 
oxen,  tied  them  up  in  rice-sacks  of  plaited  straw,  which  were  then  heaped  up 
and  set  on  fire,  or  put  them  in  cages  with  provisions  before  their  eyes,  where 
they  were  allowed  to  perish  of  hunger.'  About  the  year  1636  the  old  aban- 
doned castle  of  Arima  and  the  neighboring  islands  became  the  place  of  re- 
fuge and  rendezvous  of  some  30,000  or  40,000  Christians  (the  major  portion 
Japanese)  who  came  from  all  parts  of  the  Island  of  Kyushu,  and  here  put 
themselves  into  a  position  of  defense  against  their  persecutors.  Their  princi- 
pal leader  appears  to  have  been  a  man  of  the  name  of  Nirado  Shiro,  from 
the  Island  of  AmaJeusa.  In  1637,  Itakura  Shigemasa  was  commissioned  by 
the  ahdgun  to  march  against  the  rebels,  which  he  did  with  30,000  men.  He 
was  killed  whilst  leading  the  attack  upon  the  fortress,  but  was  succeeded  by 
Matsudaira  Nobutauna,  who  at  the  head  of  100,000  men  besieged  the  castle 
for  two  months  before  he  could  take  it.  On  April  14,  1638,  he  stormed  and 
captured  the  Citadel,  and  the  massacre  which  ensued  baffles  description. 
Three  thousand  men  were  slain  and  buried  at  Tomioka  in  the  Island  of  Ama^ 
kuaa.  Of  all  the  37,000  whom  sword  and  famine  had  spared,  not  one  was  al- 
lowed to  survive.  Many  were  led  to  the  entrance  of  Nagaaaki  Harbor  and 
from  the  steep  cli£fs  of  Papenberg  Island,  were  hurled  into  the  sea. 

Kvchinotauy  a  small  port  on  the  S.W.  side  of  the  peninsula, 
15  M.  from  Unzen^  is  called  at  daily  by  steamers  from  Mofgi 
(3  hra,;  fare,  ¥1)  and  is  a  shipping-point  for  the  coal  from  toe 
Afuke  Mines.  The  Bteamei  iai^  \«  SKimafeara  is  35  sen. 


MOJI  TO  EAGOSHIMA    41-  Route.    671 

41.  From  Moji  (Shimonoseld)  vid  Tosu    and  Ktunamoto 

(Aso  Volcano)  to  Kagoshlma. 

Kagoshima  Main  Line  of  the  Imperial  Government's  Kyfishti  Railways. 

239  M.  Several  trains  daily  in  about  8  hie. ;  fare,  ¥7,  Ist  cl. ;  ¥4.20,  2d  el. 
Dininff-  and  sleeping-cars  Of  3  extra)  are  attached  to  the  express  trains. 
Consult  the  rly.  folders.  The  ferry  service  between  Shimonoidci  and  Moji 
is  mentioned  at  p.  644.  The  line  traverses  one  of  the  most  beautiful  r^ons 
of  the  Enmire,  and  after  leaving  the  province  of  Buzen^  crosses  Chikuten, 
Chikuoo,  nigo,  and  u*umx,  before  entering  the  semi-tropical,  historic  pro- 
vince of  Satsuma.  The  scenery  of  certain  sections  is  wild  and  picturesque, 
with  smoking  volcanoes  in  the  background.  The  active  volcano  of  A«o,  one 
of  the  safest,  most  interesting,  and  accessible  in  Japan,  rises  not  far  from 
Kumamoto,  and  a  trip  to  it  is  a  unique  and  imf  orgettable  experience.  The 
Journey  over  its  summit  and  across  the  fine  provinces  of  Hxgo  and  Bungo 
beyond,  to  the  singularly  interesting  volcanic  region  around  Beppu,  is  en- 
tirely off  the  regular  beaten  track  of  travel,  and  it  should  not  be  omitted  by 
those  who  wish  to  obtain  first-hand  impressions  of  rural  and  volcanic  Japan. 
It  entails  no  real  hardship.  Women  who  arc  only  moderately  inured  to 
walking  can  climb  Aao-aan  and  make  the  complete  Journey  without  undue 
fatigue.  There  are  no  dissy  heights  to  scale,  and  no  objectionable  preci- 
pices to  cross.  In  places  the  roads  are  excellent;  the  going  over  most  of  the 
trails  is  good;  the  wayside  inns  are  clean  and  comfortable;  and  the  scenery  is 
a  perpetual  delight.  Autumn,  winter,  or  spring  are  the  best  seasons,  as  the 
semi-tropical  summers  of  Kj/uahu  are  not. 

The  rly.  line  from  Moji  to  67  M.  Tosu  is  described  in  Rte. 
39.  Prom  Tosu  the  trend  of  the  rails  is  S.W.  The  region  is 
attractive  and  carefully  cultivated,  the  broad-leaved  taro  Jily, 
bamboos,  flaming  vegetable-wax,  camphor,  and  pollarded  mul- 
berry trees  being  the  most  conspicuous  features  in  the  land- 
scape. The  ChUose-^awa  is  crossed  on  a  Qnspan  steel  bridge 
(1243  ft.  long)  just  before  reaching  70  M.  Kwrume  (Inn: 
Shioyay  ¥2),  capital  (pop.  36,000)  of  Chikugo  Province,  &nd 
a  producing  center  for  a  cotton  cloth  with  minute  patterns 
(kasuri)  known  to  the  trade  as  Satsuma-gasuri.  Prior  to  the 
Restoration  the  region  roundabout  was  held  in  feudal  tenure 
by  a  long  dynasty  of  daimyds  of  the  Arima  Toyouji  family.  — 
A  tram- way  runs  hence  to  the  locally  celebrated  (5  M.)  Sui" 
tengu  Shrine  (Shinto;  manv  pilgrims)  which  has  the  spirit  of 
the  unfortunate  Em'peror  ArUoku  for  its  tutelar  deity.  The 
surrounding  country  is  rich  and  productive.  Beyond  the  Yabe 
River  is  (81  M.)  Yabekawa^  with  the  Nakayama  AgricvUural 
Experimental  Station.  FiVe  M.  to  the  W.  is  Yanagatua  (Inn: 
Hiranoya,  ¥2),  where  lie  the  ruins  of  a  castle  built  by  the 
f  edual  baron  Kamachi  Shigenari  in  1560. 

90  M.  Omuta  (Inn:  Jugoan,  ¥2.50),  is  the  station  for  the  ex- 
tensive Miike  Colliery ,  near  by  at  the  E.  We  soon  glimpse  the 
sea  at  the  right  and  ere  long  the  train  runs  alone  the  shore 
where  the  primitive  huts  of  the  fishermen  recall  moae  of  the 
Ainu  neax  Shir aoi  (p9853).  Many  Buddhist  graveyards  dot  the 
country,  and  Umen  Mt.  is  visible  at  the  right,  on  the  SMmth 
bara  Peninsula,  The  oranges  and  grape-fruit  grown  in  the 
neighborhood  enjoy  a  reputation  for  excellence.  At  oertain 
seasons  the  vegetable-wax  trees-are  seen  to  be  i\3i!iV  ol  iD8k>aN«i&\ 


672    Rouie  4I,  EUMAMOTO  Kimbdam, 

who  gather  the  berries  and  place  them  carefuDy  xd  baskets 
bulging  on  adjacent  limbs.  The  country  is  hilly  on  to  109  M. 
Konoha,  1}  M.  from  which  is  Tawarazaka  with  a  granite  monu- 
ment commemorating  the  4000  soldiers  who  died  in  defense  of 
the  place  at  the  time  of  the  SaUuma  Rebellion,  llie  fanners 
hereabout  stack  straw  in  the  form  of  wigwams,  and  in  a  cre- 
puscular light  the  fields  resemble  sleeping  encampments. 
Strong,  stodgy  bulls  aid  in  the  laborious  work  in  the  paddy- 
fields.  The  thousands  of  mulberry  trees  planted  on  the  hm- 
slope  terraces  advertise  the  extent  of  the  silk  industry. 

114.  M.  Uehi  is  the  starting-point  for  the  (10  M.)  Yamaaa 
Hot  Springs,  The  region  hereabout  is  agricultiurally  one  of  the 
richest  in  Japan;  the  bold  mt.  which  rises  at  the  right  is  Kim- 
bosan  (2100  ft.).  119  M.  Kami  (upper)  Kumamoto, 

Kami  Kumunoto  is  the  station  where  south-bound  passengers  whose  des- 
tination is  Kumamoto  proper  (2  M.  farther  on)  usually  alight  from  the  train, 
as  it  is  nearer  to  the  chief  mns ;  time  can  also  be  saved  by  one  bent  on  temple- 
se^ng,  as  the  well-known  Hommyd-ji  is  not  far  from  the  station  (5  min.  to 
the  right,  cross  the  rly.  track  and  proceed  ^  M.  up  the  broad  road),  and  can 
be  inspected  on  the  way  to  the  town  (20  mm.  by  jinriki,  20  aen).  The  tram- 
cars  which  leave  the  station  go  near  the  inns,  and  after  connecting  with  the 
oroBS-counti^  line  to  Otau  proceed  to  the  Suizenji  Landscape  Garden.  The 
usual  Jinriki  fare  from  the  station  to  the  center  of  the  town  viA  the  Horn- 
myd-ji  (about  1  hr.),  ia  40  «en.  The  country  trip,  vi&  Aso  Volcano  to  Beppu, 
a  described  herdnaf ter. 

123  M.  Kumamoto,  capital  of  Higo  Province  and  Kuma- 
moto ken,  in  lat.  32**  49'  N.,  and  long.  130°  42'  E.  of  Greenwich 
(9°  5J'  W.  of  Tokyo),  an  attractive  city  with  62,000  inhabs., 
stands  on  a  broad  plain  encircled  by  mts.,  in  the  midst  of  so 
many  fine  trees  that  it  has  the  appearance  of  a  vast  park. 
The  Shirakawa  (White  River)  winds  through  it  and  is  spanned 
at  intervals  by  broad  foot-bridges  of  mediseval  aspect.  The 
smoking  cone  of  Aso^an  is  outlined  against  the  N.E.  horizon, 
27  M.  distant.  The  main  street,  with  some  small  but  attrac- 
tive shops,  is  Togin^machi, 

Inns  (oomp.  p.  zxxiv} ;  all  in  the  native  style.  The  Togiya  is  in  Semba- 
machi,  25  min.  by  jinriki  from  either  station,  the  Togipa  Shiten  (a  branch  of 
the  former)  is  in  Tetori-honcho,  20  min.  from  the  station.  The  narukomaya 
is  in  Funabaahita-machi,  and  is  a  resort  for  wrestlers  and  such.  Should  toe 
traveler  be  obliged  to  lodge  there  a  clear  understanding  should  be  reached 
before  the  room  is  engaged,  as  an  extra  charge  is  usually  made  for  to  web, 
bread,  butter,  and  other  requisites.  The  customary  rate  jot  all  the  inns  is 
from  ¥2.50  to  ¥3.50  a  day  according  to  room  and  food.  Higher  if  so-called 
foreign  food  (eggs,  bread,  meat,  fried  potatoes,  or  the  like)  are  ordered.  Cer- 
tain of  the  Jinriki-men  have  a  private  understanding  with  the  innkeepers,  and 
if  the  traveler  expresses  a  wish  to  go  to  a  certain  inn  he  is  apt  to  be  told  that 
it  is  not  as  good  as  such  and  such  a  place.  There  is  a  refreshment-«tand  in 
the  Kumamoto  StcUion. 

The  Castle  (permit  from  the  Kencho;  no  photographing), 
at  i}resent  occupied  by  the  Sixth  Armjf  Division,  was  built 
originally  in  the  15th  cent,  by  Ideta  Hidenobu,  and  recon- 
structed on  a  larger  scale  in  1599  by  Kato  Kiyomasay  who  in 
A  fiduciary  capacity  received  it  from  Toyotomi  HideyoM, 
From  1632  until  the  BjesloiaWoii  \\.  >Nwa  \ikfc  feudatory  seat  of 


The  Hammyo-ji,  KUMAMOTO  4^-  Bouie.    673 

the  Hosokawa  daimyos,  A  mutiny  broke  out  here  in  1876, 
among  the  samurai  dissatisfied  with  the  new  Imperial  Grov't,  but 
was  promptly  quelled.  In  1877,  however,  during  the  Satsuma 
TVaVy  the  3000  defenders  under  Colonel  Tani  Tateki  were  be- 
sieged for  50  days  by  the  Saigd  rebels,  but  were  finally  rescued 
by  General  Kuroda,  The  cyclopean  walls  are  all  that  remain 
of  the  former  massive  keep:  the  deep  moats  have  been  filled  in, 
but  Uie  fine  old  camphor  trees  of  the  park  remain.  Lafcadio 
Heam  taught  school  m  Kvmamoto  in  1894. 

The  KuMAMOTO  Leper  HoBPrrAL,  a  highly  deserving 
(charitable)  institution  founded  in  1895  by  Miss  Helen  Rid- 
deU  (who  still  maintains  it),  stands  on  the  outskirts  of  the  city, 
amid  pleasing  surroimdings.  The  New  Year  postagenstamps 
issued  and  sold  during  the  Christmas  hoUdays  are  in  demand 
by  foreigners. 

The  Hommy5-ji,  a  Buddhist  temple  dedicated  to  Koto  Kiyo- 
masaj^  —  from  which  circumstance  it  is  often  called  Seiahoko 
Sama  (the  Chinese  rendering  of  the  name),  —  dates  from  the 
16th  cent,  and  has  a  very  picturesque  approach.  Successive 
flights  of  stone  steps  lead  up  from  the  terminus  of  a  broad 
fl^ged  walk  flanked  by  cherry  trees  (fine  blossoms  in  early 
spring)  to  a  number  of  terraces,  each  with  its  tottering  shrine. 
Long  lines  of  picturesque  stone  lanterns  overshadowed  by  lofty 
trees  cut  the  ascending  avenue  into  one  central  and  two  par- 
alleling aisles,  at  the  end  of  which  one  gets  a  comprehensive 
vista  of  the  main  shrine  with  its  fine  roof  and  glistening  crests. 
The  dingy  structure  at  the  right  of  the  first  landing  is  the 
NichirenrshOf  and  that  opposite,  the  Shakardo.  Just  inside  the 
upper  gate  is  a  curious  old  bronze  monkey  surmounting  a 
bronze  cylinder  adorned  with  ideographs  in  low  relief.  Ac- 
cording to  the  temple  records  it  was  ^ven  by  Kiyomasa  when 
his  favorite  monkey  (of  which  this  is  a  graven  image)  died. 
The  striking  wood-carvings  of  the  porch  are  worth  noticing. 
The  elaborately  decorated  honden  at  the  rear  is  closed  to  the 
public.  Among  the  stone  tombs  is  one  of  Kiyomasa  and  several 
of  the  Koreans  who  followed  him  to  Japan  after  his  invasion 
of  their  country.  [Because  of  his  success  and  bravery  there, 
Kiyomasa  received  from  Hideyoshi  the  Kumamoto  fief  with 
an  annual  income  of  250,000  koku  of  rice.] 

The  Suizenji  Landscape  Garden  (the  sometime  private 
park  of  the  Hosokawa  family),  2  M.  S.E.  from  the  center  of  the 
city  (30  sen  by  jinriki  in  J  hr.^  12  sen  by  the  tram  in  15  rain.), 
is  worth  seeing  if  one  has  the  time  to  spare  and  is  unacquainted 

1  Kiyonuua*8  memory  is  revered  ia  all  the  temples  of  the  Nichiren  sect 
because  of  his  generous  protection  of  them  (and  mayhap  because  of  his  relent- 
less enmity  against  Cnri^ianity).  This  particular  temple  is  the  chosen 
shiine  of  credulous  folks  who  beuevB  themselyes  possessed  of  the  fox,  and 
special  exorcisms  are  praotked  on  them  by  the  Nichiren  priests,  who  are 
reputed  the  most  succoEnful  expellers  of  these  tricksy  smTltB.  l\>\a  «^»(>  «b\.v7> 
onte  resort  of  lepen  -^  •  pout  whidh  prudent  txavtleiB  ina:y  "ms^  V>>KfiA'^ 
inmixKL 


► 


674    BmOe  41.  KUMAMOTO  Suizen^  Garden. 

with  the  usual  type  of  formal  landscape  garden  in  Japan. 
The  car  stops  in  front  of  the  entrance,  near  the  big  granite 
torii.  The  hill  in  the  center  of  the  garden  (no  fees)  is  supposed 
to  be  a  miniature  Fujisan;  the  bronze  equestrian  statue  com- 
memorates Nagaoka  Shoe,  an  officer  who  died  in  the  Russian 
War.  The  near-by  shrine  is  called  the  '  Water  Shrine/  from 
the  numerous  si)rihgs  which  bubble  up  in  the  pond.  The  cred- 
ulous ascribe  miraculous  healing  qusoities  to  the  water.  The 
port  of  Kumamoto  laHyakkanishij  5  M .  to  the  W.  on  the  Skima- 
bora  Gulf.  Communication  daily  with  towns  on  the  Skima- 
hara  Peninstda. 

Southward  from   Kumamoto  the  rly.  traverses  a  rolling 
country  and  crosses  3  rivers  before  reaching  128  M.  Uto,  where 
a  branch  line  diverges  (right)  to  16  M.  Miaumi,  whence 
steamers  leave  daily  for  Nagasaki  (about  7  hrs.),  and  Kago- 
skima.  —  145  M.  Yatsushiro  (Inn:  Obiya,  ¥2.50),  a  busy  town 
(pop.  15,000)  on  the  right  baiik  of  the  swift  Yatsuskiro  River 
(known  for  its  rapids),  produces  a  crackled  faience  which  has 
been  manufactured  here  for  centuries  and  was  first  introduced 
by  Koreans.  For  a  long  time  the  hill-encircled  place  was  the 
temporary  terminus  of  the  rly.,  the  section  hence  to  Kago- 
skima  having  presented  engineering  difficulties  that  required 
great  patience  to  overcome.  Severaf  among  the  57  timneb  are 
more  than  2000  ft.  long,  the  greatest  bein^  the  Yaiake  (just 
beyond  Yatake  Station) j  which  is  6877  ft.  m  length,  and  is 
built  on  a  sharp  slope  1861  ft.  above  the  sea.    There  are  20 
steel  and  stbne  bridges,  and  a  host  of  culverts.  —  The  rly. 
plunges  at  once  into  the  hills  and  begins  to  climb  through  wild 
and  picturesque  scenery.  The  river  flanks  it  on  the  right,  and 
from  the  car  window  one  sees  lithe  bamboo  rafts  careering 
down  the  rapid  current,  or  long-nosed  boats  being  poled  or 
hauled  up  by  perspiring  coolies.   There  is  barely  room  on  the 
mt.  side  for  the  rly.  and  for  the  few  farmsteads  which  stand 
near  it  high  above  the  stream;  the  people  live  by  fishing  and 
raising  a  few  necessities  on  their  checker-board-like  farms. 
Beyond  152  M.  Sakamoto  ^  the  cafLon  becomes  deeper  and  the 
rapids  steeper  and  more  impetuous;  the  region  is*  wild  and 
primitive,  but  soft,  flower-decked,  and  pleasing.    The  mild 
climate  favors  the  flowers,  which  flame  from  every  hillside,  and 
the  blue-green  river  that  swirls  down  through  the  sunshine  pre- 
sents a  charming  picture  of  motion  and  semi-tropical  life. 
Tiny  hamlets  looking  like  swallows'  nests  cling  to  the  bank  at 
certain  points  in  the  gorge^  and  roundabout  them  happy 
naked  boys  shoot  the  rapids  in  frail,  rakish  crafts,  fish  for  mt. 
trout  in  cool  eddies  of  the  stream,  and  remain  blissfully  ignor- 
ant of  the  outer  world  and  its  myriad  complexities.  Tne  train 
crosses  and  re-crosses  the  river,  now  darting  through  a  dark- 
some tuuiiel;  ik)W  Bdg^g  along  thje  precipice  on  some  daring 
^en^ce,  or  sUcUAg.  tlcUiQU^  oioiia^  ^<^^di  .wooded  forest  or 


Takachiho.  KIRISHIMA  41,  Route.    675 

valley.  The  small  stations  of  Setoishiy  Shiroisij  Isshdchiy  and 
Walari  are  all  in  the  ravine.  Beyond  the  latter  place  the  hUls 
flatten,  the  river  loses  its  impetuous  character,  and  the  views 
broaden. 

177  M.  Hitoyoahi  stands  on  a  broad  upland  plain  delimned 
by  bulky  hills;  from  it  along,  stiflSsh  grade  pierced  by  many 
tunnels  leads  to  182  M.  Okoba  (1065  ft.),  on  a  spiu:  track, 
where,  before  the  train  has  time  to  back  out,  one  gets  a  superb 
view  over  the  ridge  (left)  to  the  deep  valley  hundreds  of  feet 
below.  The  stone  monument  in  the  triangle  here  stands  to  the 
memory  of  the  valiant  ones  who  left  this  region  to  die  for  the 
fatherland  on  the  Manchiuian  plains.  As  the  train  proceeds 
along  another  track  around  the  shoulder  of  the  hill,  the  de- 
lighted eye  gazes  over  a  thousand  square  miles  of  deep,  peace- 
ful valley-land  walled  in  by  tumbled  mts.  Another  stiff  up- 
grade marked  by  tunnels  and  a  series  of  inspiring  views  carries 
the  train  to  189  M.  YatakCy  whence  it  descends  through  the 
Ions  Yatake  Tunnel  and  several  shorter  ones,  to  a  beautiful 
valley  sentineled  at  the  left  by  the  sacrosanct  ML  Kirishimay 
a  smoking  volcano  astride  the  border  of  Hyuga  and  Osumi 
Provinces.  It  is  greatly  revered  by  the  Japanese,  who  believe 
that  Ninigi  no  Mikoto,  grandson  of  Amaterasu^  and  great- 
grandfather of  Jimmu  TennOy  set  his  foot  here  first  when  he 
descended  (see  below)  from  heaven  to  Japan. 

Higashi  (E.)  Kirishima,  the  only  active  vent  of  the  twin  peaks!  is  the 
highest  (5570  ft.)  and  is  often  called  Takachiho.  Niahi  (W.)  Kiriahima,  a 
less  sharply  pointed  mass  about  8  M.  distant  on  the  sky-line,  is  usually  re- 
ferred to  as  Shiraiori-tdki.  Since  the  great  eruption  of  1895,  Takachiho  has 
been  classed  as  one  of  the  most  active  volcanoes  in  Japan.  Steam  and  sul- 
phurous gases  rise  from  it  constantly,  and  its'  huge  crater  presents  an  awe- 
inspiring  manifestation  of  volcanic  energy.  Colossal  fumaroles  character- 
ise it,  and  numierous  hot  springs  burst  from  its  lower  flanks.  It  is  the 
terror  of  the  surrounding  villages,  and  particularly  of  Kvriahima  village, 
1500  ft.  above  the  sea,  on  its  slope.  Many  parts  of  the  environing  country 
are  undergoing  a  steady  sinking  process,  particularly  in  the  neighborhood  of 
Yatake  Station.  —  On  a  pile  of  stones  on  the  E.  siae  of  the  summit  stands 
the  famous  'Heavenly  Spear'  (Atnof^no-nuhoko)  whieh  tradition  associates 
with  the  descending  to  earth  of  the  divine  Ninigi.  Its  extraordinarily  clumsy 
form  points  to  a  great  antiquity.  In  shape  it  is  a  cylindrical  shaft  of  forged 
copper-bronze,  with  severu  blunt  projections,  and  toward  the  top  is  sharp- 
ened on  one  side.  Its  entire  length  is  about  50  in.:  the  length  from  point 
to  hilt,  about  40  in.;  the  circumference,  8-10  in.,  and  the  thickness  of  the 
handle,  22  in.  It  is  fixed  in  the  blunt  cone  hilt  upward.  —  The  mt.  slopes 
spared  by  the  fire  which  rained  from  TaJeachiho  inAu^.,  1903,  are  covered 
in  places  with  chestnuts,  oaks,  mt.  cherry,  and  splendid  evergreen  and  de- 
ciduous trees  intermingled  with  various  conifers.  The  ascent  of  the  mt.  is 
usually  made  from  Kolnibu  Station  (Inn:  Bnrikan,  ¥2),  12  M.  h-om  its  foot, 
though  a  trip  (2  days)  can  be  arranged  to  better  advantage  from  Kftgoahima, 
where  a  g\iide  (¥10),  etc.,  can  be  obtained  through  the  good  offices  of  the  inn- 
Iceeper.  —  The  way  from  Kirishima  village  leads  through  a  fine  semi-tropi- 
cal forest,  thence  over  an  old  lava-field  covered  with  stunted  firs  and  alders 
to  a  fork  in  the  path,  the  right  branch  of  which  leads  to  Takachiho,  Fronv 
this  point  the  ascent  CI  hr.)  1b  over  aahee  and  scoria  to  the  lo^euX  xcvKCigji  oV 
the  crater.  The  vie w  from  the  summit  ia  very  extennve . 

More  tunnels  mark  the  wild  but  beautHui  i^oii  VSosn^osi^ 
rli/ch  the  train  tudb  aftsF  leaving  184  M.  Mosdki;  iox  «b;«i^^^ 


676    Route  U.  KAGOSHIMA  •     Satauma  Proomee. 

• 

the  smoking  crater  sentinels  us,  then  it  dips  and  disaiqiiean 
behind  the  horizon.  198  M.  YoshimcUsu  is  a  shipping-point 
for  the  timber  cut  from  the  surrounding  hills. 

From  YoshinuUsu  the  Miyataki  branch  line  runs  N.E.  to  32  M.  Koba- 
t/a«A»-madift„ where  it  turns  S.E.  to  21  M.  Miyakonojd^  thence  runs  N.E.  again 
to  29  M.  Miyaaaki,  a  small  port  on  the  Bungo  Channel.  Eventually  it  will 
form  a  Unk  in  the  system  now  under  construction  down  the  E.  coast  of  KyU^ 
ahiu  from  Oita.  —  A  pike  excellent  for  motor-oars  runs  through  the  valley 
hereabout.  —  222  M.  Kokubu,  known  throughout  the  Empire  for  its  fine 
tobacco,  \b  sometimes  the  starting-point  for  the  ascent  of  Kiriahima.  The 
views  become  more  extensive  and  are  full  of  romantic  charm.  The  rly.  slopes 
downward  on  an  artificial  stone  terrace  high  above  the  placid  Kagaahima  Bay^ 
and  the  views  of  this,  thence  over  and  beyond  to  the  holy  Kiriahima  at  tixe 
far  left,  flanked  by  a  score  or  more  lesser  peaks  and  ranges,  and  the  fine  So- 
kurajima  rising  from  the  harbor  of  Kagoahima  just  ahead,  combine  to  form 
a  picture  as  charming  as  any  one  will  see  in  Japan.  The  benignity  of  the 
chmate,  which  brings  a  myriad  flowers  and  flowering  trees  into  glorious  life,  is 
of  a  genial  '  simny  south '  character,  and  a  pervasive  joyousness  seems  to 
brood  above  the  landscape.  The  tii^  villages  which  dot  the  lovely  shore,  and 
the  children  who  splash  and  gambol  in  the  tepid  water  look  happy,  olpan,  and 
inviting,  while  the  white-sailed  junks  that  drift  languidly  over  the  unruffled 
surface  of  the  lapis-lazuli  bay  impart  a  dreamy  magic  that  recalls  Ionian 
scenes.  There  are  4  tunnels  between  Shigetomi  and  Kagoahima^  and  Just  be- 
fore reaching  the  last  one  the  pretty  Shimitu  Landacape  Qcurd^n  is  seen  at 
the  right. 

239  M.  Kagoshima  (pop.  64,000;  11,500  houses),  the  most 
important  southern  city  of  Japan,  capital  of  Satauma  Province 
and  of  Kagoshima  Prefecture,  is  clean,  attractive,  and  stands 
amid  delightful  surroundings.  At  the  lower  edge  of  Kf/HshU,  in 
lat.  SV  35'  N.,  and  long.  130°  33'  E.  of  Greenwich,  it  is  943  M. 
from  TokyOf  and  16 17  from  Wakkanaij  the  topmost  point  of 
Yezo.  No  figures  could  give  a  better  idea  of  the  length  of 
densely  populated  Japan  —  a  country  which  a  one-time  great 
European  Power  formerly  regarded  as  too  insignificant  to  be 
considered  seriously  from  a  military  standpoint! 

The  Hotels  or  Inns  (comp.  p.  xxxiv)  are  all  in  the  native  style.  A  limited 
number  of  foreign-style  dishes  can  usually  be  had  at  a  price  slightly  above 
the  customary  rate;  the  fish  is  excellent  and  plentiful.  The  ramaahiroya 
Hotdt  near  the  steamer  landing,  in  Aaahitori-machi  (10  min.  from  the  station 
by  jinriki;  10  aen) ,  is  clean  and!  comfortable;  rates  vary  according  to  the  ac- 
commodation, from  ¥2  to  ¥3.50  a  day.  Am.  pi.  Other  inns  near  by  are 
the  Ikehatat  the  Okabe,  etc. 

Stbamships  ply  frequently  to  162  M.  Nagaaaki,  411  M.  Kobe,  to  various 
coast  ports,  to  Tanegaahitna  and  Amaktua  laland,  and  to  the  largest  of  the 
Loochoo  lalanda. 

A  branch  rly.,  the  Sendai  Line,  runs  N.W.  from  Kagoahima  to  32  M. 
Sendai,  whither  it  will  proceed  eventually  farther  N.  along  the  island-dotted 
coast  flanking  Amakuaajima. 

The  Nishi  Hongwanji,  an  immense  Buddhist  temple  (MorUd 
sect)  inclosed  by  a  high  stone  wall  near  the  Prefectural  Office, 
besides  being  the  bulkiest  structure  in  the  port  is  the  finest 
fane  in  KyushU,  It  is  marked  by  all  the  splendor  and  luxury 
which  usually  characterize  the  temples  of  this  sect,  and  is  sur- 
rounded by  the  customary  bronze  and  stone  lanterns,  lavere, 
fountains,  etc.  The  wide  porch,  with  some  passable  carvings 
in  the  natural  wood,  iaBUpported  by  four  handsome  square 
keyaki  (Alumna  set  in  &aQ  Wxa^  ^^^\ft  x^tin^  on  ^pranite 


The  Castle,  KAGOSHIMA  4^-  RmOe.    677 

bases.  The  splendid  old  gray  tiled  roof  with  its  imposing  ante- 
fixes  is  one  of  the  most  satisfying  things  in  the  town.  The  six 
immense  supporting  pillars  of  the  interior  are  supplemented 
by  numerous  pilasters  of  beautifully  grained  keyaki,  sculptured 
in  low  relief,  with  decorations  that  extend  over  on  to  the  mas- 
sive cross-beams.  On  these,  at  intervals  are  chiseled  groups 
of  foUated  chrysanthemums,  and  alert  Dogs  of  Fo  with  ivory 
eyes.  Eighty  mats  are  recjuired  to  cover  the  vast  central  nave, 
48  for  each  of  the  side  aisles,  12  for  the  ambulatory,  and  20 
for  the  chancel.  The  outer  doors  are  finished  in  the  natural 
wood,  heavily  studded  with  iron  bosses,  and  carved  with 
Paidownia  imperialis  crests.  The  panels  of  the  coffered  ceiling 
are  finished  in  dull  gold  lacquer.  The  high  altar,  a  marvel  of 
rich  brocade,  gold,  and  shining  metal,  is  decorated  after  the 
style  of  the  Nikk5  mausolea,  with  a  maze  of  polychromatic 
diaper-work,  cloisonne,  and  intricate  arabesques.  The  seven 
superbly  sculptinred  and  gilded  tennin  in  aUo-reUevo  work  are 
noteworthy  expressions  of  Buddhist  art.  The  central  one, 
above  the  middle  door  facing  the  shrine,  holds  in  her  hand  an 
exquisite  little  golden  Amida  backed  by  a  tiny  mandorla,  a 
copy  of  that  in  the  reliquarv,  and  which,  by  its  excellence,  re- 
calls certain  of  Churiguerra! a  finest  work.  Some  of  the  figures 
are  portra;^ed  in  the  characteristic  attitude  of  evoking  celestial 
music,  while  others  appear  enraptured  by  the  Buddhistic  sym- 
bols which  they  hold  before  them.  Below,  but  still  above  the 
doors,  are  7  other  excellently  carved  and  gilded  ramma  show- 
ing lotus  flowers  and  leaves  in  high  relief,  along  with  graceful 
pjeacocks,  mythological  phoenixes,  waves,  etc.  The  numerous 
rich  and  historic  kakemono  differ  but  little  from  those  in  other 
temples. 

Kagoshima  is  mentioned  in  history  as  far  back  as  a.d.  764. 
The  ruins  of  the  present  castle  —  the  feudal  keep  of  the  pow- 
erful Shimazu  daimyos  imtil  the  Restoration  —  occupy  the 
site  of  an  earlier  structure  razed  by  Shimazu  lehiaa  in  the 
16th  cent.  St  Francis  Xavier  landed  here  in  1549,  and  in 
Aug.,  1863,  the  Engfish  Admiral  Kuper  bombarded  the  port 
and  practically  destroyed  it  in  retaliation  for  the  refusal  of 
the  reigning  Lord  of  Satsvma  to  make  redress  for  the  murder 
of  C.  L.  Richardaorif  an  Englishman^  killed  by  one  of  his  vas- 
sals at  Nam>amugi  (near  Yokohama)  m  1862.  The  city  was  the 
center  of  the  historic  Satsuma  Rebellion  of  1877,  at  which  time 
—  after  8  months  of  desultory  fighting  —  it  and  its  castle  were 
again  reduced  to  ruins.  Here  the  hapless  Saigo  Takamori 
(monument  in  Uyeno  Park,  Tdkyo)  the  leader  of  the  insurrec- 
tion, committed  seppuku  when  he  saw  t^t  the  uprising  had 
failed  of  its  purpose.  —  A  multiplicity  of  canals  cross  and  re- 
cross  the  town,  and  many  quaint  stone  bridges  are  features 
of  tJxem.  It  knows  little  or  nothing  of  the  winters  which  bury 
N.  Japan  under  10  ft.  of  snow,  for  here  fruit  Vk^^^e^^'Q^'Vs^ 


678    Rtnde  4L       KAGOSHIMA  GULF  Sakurajma. 

Oct.  alongside  ripening  grape-fruit,  oranges,  and  other  semi- 
tropical  products.  The  fine  crackled  porcelain  known  as 
SalsumaryaM  (which  has  carried  the  name  ScUsuma  to  all 
parts  of  the  artistic  world),  though  still  made  here  is  now  sur- 
passed in  beauty  and  excellence  by  Ky6to  products  (comp.  p. 
cdiv).  Dainty  sets  in  which  tea  is  served  by  yet  daintier  <So- 
tswna  maidens  are  among  the  alluring  features  of  the  inns,  and 
many  of  the  shops  are  dedicated  to  the  sale  of  the  local 

eroductions.  The  superior  grass-cloth  (called  Satsumorjdfuj 
ecause  it  was  first  imported  through  ScUsuma  Province)  sold 
in  some  of  the  stores  is  woven  (from  hemp  bark)  and  dyed 
in  the  Loochoo  Islands.  ScUsymorrdsoku,  a  superior  kind  of 
wax-candle  is  made  here. 

A  host  of  delightful  walks  are  possible  in  the  n^ghborhood, 
and  weeks  would  be  needed  to  trace  them  all  out.  The  big 
wooded  hill  at  the  right  of  the  town  (W.),  called  Shirayama 
C  Castle  HillO,  and  Tsurumaruyamaj  is  the  site  of  the  old 
castle  and  Shiroyama  Parky  the  most  pnopular  of  the  near-by 
resorts.  From  the  ruins  of  the  sometime  fortress  rises  the 
new  Kagoshima  Middle  SckooL  Lotus-choked  moats  flank  the 
lower  edge  of  the  inclosure  and  from  them  rise  cyclopean  old 
walls  almost  covered  with  the  myriad  tin^r  flora  of  a  semi- 
tropic  region.  In  the  early  morning  the  twisty,  upward-slop- 
ing avenue  is  thronged  with  bright-eyed,  neatly  clad,  chatter- 
ing school-girls,  equipped  with  books  and  slates,  and  with 
squat  bottles  of  ink  swinging  from  strings  tied  to  their  little 
fingers.  —  Following  the  zigzag  path  leading  past  the  school 
one  soon  comes  to  a  shaded  woods-road  which  bears  up  the 
slope  to  the  left  and  affords  charming  views  over  the  town 
to  Sakurajima  and  the  sea  beyond.  The  many  monuments 
and  graves  commemorate  the  misguided  men  who  perished 
in  the  Satsuma  Rebellion.  By-paths  conduct  one  to  other  and 
higher  eminences  whence  the  views  are  yet  more  extensive, 
and  embrace  the  twin  peaks  of  Kirishimaj  and  other  lofty 
ranges. 

Kagoshima  Gulp,  about  40  M.  long  from  N.  to  S.,  and  5- 
10  M.  wide,  is  very  deep  (127  fathoms  near  the  midcUe),  and 
has  practically  no  anchorage  for  large  vessels  except  near  the 
city.  Blocking  the  channel  10  M.  from  its  head,  with  deep 
water  passages  on  either  side,  abreast  of  the  city,  and  but  a 
short  (Ustance  from  the  steamer-landing,  is  the  bulky  and  lofty 
Sakurajima  (Cherry  Tree  Island),  the  highest  peak  of  which, 
Mitaka  (3000  ft.),  in  the  center  of  the  island,  is  an  active  vol- 
cano (great  eruption  in  Jan.,  1914).  The  terraces  on  its  lower 
slope  are  planted  with  vegetable-wax  and  orange  trees,  while 
the  carefully  tilled  fields,  warmed  below  by  subterranean 
fires,  and  above  by  a  tropical  sun,  produce  the  fine  vegetables 
(chiej3y  radishes  and  big  daikons),  the  sugar-cane,  and  what- 
not for  which  the  region  \a  c^X^t^X^^.  liv  early  spring  the 


Ozu,  KUMAMOTO  TO  BEPPU    4^.  RatOe.    679 

foot-paths  which  zigzag  up  the  mt.  (extensive  views  from  the 
summit)  are  adorned  with  a  host  of  azaleas,  deutzias,  lilies, 
beautiful  ferns,  and  other  plants.  Small  st^imers  leave  the 
landing  several  times  each  day  for  5}  M.  Zokoyamaj  and  other 
of  the  island  ports.  The  Arimura  Hot  Springs,  at  the  southern 
foot  of  the  island,  3  hrs.  from  Kagoahimaf  is  a  popular  resort. 

42.  From  Kumamoto  vid  Toshita,  Aso-san,  Takeda,  and  Oita 

to  Beppu. 

This  trip,  one  of  the  finest  cross-country  jaunts  in  Japan,  should  be  taken 
for  the  unusual  opportunity  afTorded  of  standing  on  the  rim  of  an  active  vol- 
cano and  gazing  into  one  of  Nature's  awe-inspiring  work-shops,  as  well  as  for 
the  delightful  glimpses  one  gets  of  thoroughly  rural  Japan  in  one  of  its  best 
aspects.  The  traveler  who  prefers  to  proceed  from  one  of  the  Kyu»h^  ports 
to  Nagasaki  by  sea,  rather  tnan  return  to  Shimonoaeki,  can  reverse  this  route 
and  Route  43,  without  mismng  anything  worth  seeing.  The  most  satisfactory 
way  is,  however,  to  start  from  Kumamoto.  With  this  Handbook  a  guide  is 
unnecessary;  a  local  one  must  perforce  be  picked  up  at  T^osAito,  for  the  round- 
about walk  over  ii«o-«an,  as  described  hereinafter.  Money  can  be  saved  by 
limiting  one's  hand-luggage,  and  having  the  (strong  and  willing)  guide  from 
Toshila  carry  it  over  Aao-8an  to Boju,  where  the  b<uha  is  rejoined.  The  obser- 
vations below  are  detailed  with  the  aim  of  saving  the  traveler  time  and  an 
unpleasant  experience  —  nothing  in  itself,  but  vexatious  if  there  be  a  tired 
woman  in  the  party.  English  is  spoken  by  the  obliging  matron  at  the  To- 
8hiia  Jnnt  and  the  scholarly  proprietor  of  the  Beppu  Hotel.  The  country  is 
as  safe  as  Broadway  or  the  Strand. 

The  KxTMAMOTO  Inns  are  mentioned  at  p.  672.  The  tram-fare  from  Ku- 
mamoto to  Ozu  (or  Oteu;  often  pronounced  oats)  is  33  sen;  the  junction  where 
the  car  is  usually  boarded  is  in  the  N.E.  quarter  of  the  town,  near  the  Ken- 
cho  —  which  is  passed  (right)  as  the  car  (usually  crowded)  goes  out  toward 
the  N.W.  suburb.  The  12  M.  ride  to  Ozu  takes  about  If  hrs.,  and  if  one's 
time  is  limited  and  one  wishes  to  make  an  early  start  from  the  inn,  the  Sui- 
zenji  Garden  can  be  visited,  the  tram  taken  to  the  Ozu  Jct.^  and  the  Ozu  car 
boarded  there.  It  is  a  little  over  2  hrs.  by  basha  (p.  xci)  from  Ozu  to  (9  M.) 
Toshita,  where  one  must  spend  the  night,  but  as  there  are  several  fine  water- 
falls in  the  immediate  vicinity,  it  is  worth  while  tryingto  reach  there  early 
in  the  afternoon  in  order  to  see  them  before  dark.  From  Kumamoto  the 
line  crosses  a  cultivated,  pleasing  country  withA«o-«an  smoking  vigorously 
on  the  left  horizon  and  ever^  now  and  then  puffing  up  huge  bmck  rings  of 
smoke.  Other  odd  features  in  the  landscape  are  the  Chinese  juniper  trees 
(/&uA;i),  the  foliage  of  which  springs  out  a  few  feet  above  the  grouna  and  en- 
velops the  trunk  like  a  cloak  to  a  point  near  the  top,  where  the  limbs  branch 
like  those  of  an  ordinary  conifer,  but  sometimes  form  cones  that  resemble 
the  trimmed  trees  in  a  graveyard.  Majoy  groves  of  bamboos,  pines,  and 
vegetable-wax  trees  dot  the  v^eys,  and  dispute  the  land  with  pollarded  mul- 
berries; the  dwellers  in  the  cottages  devote  their  spare  moments  to  reeling 
silk  on  primitive  reels,  from  steaming  cocoons.  Tne  road  to  ToehUa  is  ma- 
cadamized and  is  practicable  for  motor-cars. 

The  Basha  Office  (baaha-Qvoaisha)  at  Ozu  is  opposite  the  tram  terminus: 
no  English  spoken.  Henceforward  the  road  is  broad,  unmistakable,  and 
much  traveled,  and  a  good  pedestrian  can  easily  walk  to  Toshita  in  2\  hrs. 
The  ha^hae  used  by  the  natives  are  small,  seatless,  and  singularly  uncom- 
fortable. As  many  as  can  be  packed  into  them  squat  on  the  restricted  and 
bumpy  floor,  and  sleep  with  heads  resting  on  their  neighbor's  shoulder  as 
occasion  ofifers.  Fare  to  Toahita,  40  aen.  Foreigners  are  usually  expected  to 
hire  a  special  hasha  (cost,  ¥1.55)  with  seats  and  room  for  4  pers.,  and  this  . 
vehicle  is  usually  brought  up  imasked.  It  is  so  superior  to  the  other,  and  is 
drawn  by  such  a  strong  and  willing-looking  horse  (a  decoy  used  for  the  ooea- 
sion),  that  it  is  engaged  forthwith.  The  tjraveler  is  now  told  that  &a«Aa*  are 
difficult  to  find  en  route^  and  he  is  besought  to  arrange  for  a  continuoiu  trip 
to  Takeda  (20  M.  beyond  Bdju  at  the  far  side  of  Aao-aan,  where  ^ub  hwikia 
is  rejoined)  at  an  acreed-upon  price  (baaharchin)  61  ¥^.^  VP^<(i«&  vi»  ^aak 


eSO    BauiA  Ji2,     KUMAMOTO  TO  BEPPU  Toskata. 

and  flexible),  thence  to  (29  M.  over  a  much  better  road)  OUa^  at  a  final 
charge  of  ¥5.  The  same  horse,  honest-appearing  driver,  and  comfortable 
ha^ha  are  unctuously  promised  for  the  through  trip.  The  money  is  de- 
manded in  advance.  When  the  early  morning  tramp  is  begun  at  ToshUa, 
one's  luggage  is  piled  into  the  hcisha,  which  is  supposed  to  follow  the  highway 
round  the  base  of  the  volcano  and  to  be  in  waiting  at  Boju  in  the  afternoon. 
Here  one  usually  arrives  about  4  or  4.30,  tired  enough  after  the  long  mt. 
dimb^  dusty,  and  anxious  to  proceed  to  TaJceda  and  the  inn,  with  its  supper 
and  bed.  He  finds,  however,  that  he  has  been  tricked;  hunting  out  the  bait- 
ing-station (bcLskaku),  he  is  able  to  rout  out  naught  but  a  wretched,  dilapi- 
dated vehicle,  a  strange  driver  (baaJia  no  &e^fd),  ana  a  bony  horse  (baaha-uma) 
that  has  seen  better  days.  After  much  grumbling  about  its  being  too  late  in 
the  day,  the  driver  grudgingly  hitches  up  and  starts.  But  at  the  end  of  an 
hour,  when  Sakanaihi  (Inn:  Sakana-ya,  ¥2.50)  is  reached,  the  bcuha-driyer 
stubbornly  refuses  to  proceed  farther,  and  if  the  traveler  wishes  to  save 
time  and  go  on  to  Takeda,  a  firm  attitude  and  an  appeal  to  the  police  are 
necessary  to  move  him.  Just  beyond  this  wretched  village  is  the  barrier 
ridge  (the  old  crater  wall)  which  hems  in  the  vast  valley  (once  the  crater 
floor).  The  road  upward  to  Takimuro^zaka  (hill)  zigzags  at  such  an  ana^e 
that  the  poor  horse  pulls  the  empty  basha  with  the  greatest  difficulty,  the 
while  breathing  laboriously.  The  traveler,  man  or  woman,  must  walk,  stum- 
blingty,  and  sometimes  in  pitchy  darkness,  and  is  lucky  if  not  asked  to  push. 
The  tune  lost  in  expostulating  with  the  driver  serves  merely  to  delav  one, 
and  invites  the  risk  of  being  refused  admission  to  the  Tcikeda  Inn  (reached  at 
about  11  P.M.)  because  of  the  lateness  of  the  hour.  Hence  to  Oita  there  is  no 
difficulty,  as  there  are  frequent  and  competing  baafuis  and  jinrikis.  The 
above  annojrance  can  be  avoided  by  refusing  to  pay  in  advance  for  the 
haaha;  by  having  the  guide  from  Toshita  carry  one  s  luggage  along;  and  by 
making  a  bargain  for  a  fresh  horse  and  bosAa  at  Bdju,  for  the  trip  to  Takeda. 
At  that  town  the  baaha  starts  from  a  point  near  the  inn,  and  the  obliging  inn- 
keepHer  will  see  that  his  guest  is  not  overcharged.  Unless  the  traveler  carries 
special  credentials,  a  letter  from  the  matron  at  Toahita  to  the  innkeeper 
at  Takeda  will  be  found  useful.  Amateur  photographers  who  plan  to  take 
views  of  the  crater  are  recommended  to  read  the  2d  paragraph  at  p.  ei. 

From  Ozu,  a  primitive  town  with  streams  of  clear  water 
running  through  its  main  street,  the  excellent  road  slopes 
gently  upward  through  a  region  where  much  good  tobacco  is 
raised;  the  hillsides  are  usually  scarlet  with  the  leaves  of  the 
vegetable-wax  trees,  and  in  autumn  they  flame  with  many 
gorgeous  tints.  The  valley  lands  are  sown  to  grain.  About 
1  hr.  out  the  road  approaches  a  stupendous  gorge  (right)  cov- 
ered with  dense  forests  of  tall  cedars  that  rise  like  exaggerated 
funeral  plumes;  lofty  mts.  stand  behind,  while  far  down  at  the 
S,  the  laiid  falls  away  in  a  magnificent  perspective;  the  mightv 
roar  of  a  surging  river  comes  up  from  the  depths.  The  road- 
way winds  down  over  terraces  cut  from  the  canon  wall  to  the 
quaint  stone  Megane  Bridge  thrown  across  the  river  at  a  point 
where  two  streams  converge.  The  Kurogawa  (Black  River) 
comes  in  at  the  right,  the  Shirakawa  (White  River)  at  the 
left.  In  the  triangle  formed  by  the  streams  and  the  lofty  hills 
nestles  the  picturesque  hamlet  of  Toshita^  or  Aao  village,  not 
unfrequently  confounded  with  Tochinoki-shinyu  (Inn:  Oyama, 
¥2),  a  duster  of  houses  round  a  hot  spring  in  the  canon  a  short 
distance  farther  up  the  Shirakawa^  and  a  popular  resort  of  Ja^ 
panese.  Here  the  two  rivers,  whicn  in  early  spring  tear  through 
the  ravine  with  a  deafening  roar,  mer^e  their  waters,  and  after 
flowing  through  a  m\d;ttaoL\oNd^  f&X.  vcLt^bs  mts.  emerge  on  tiie 


A8(h9an,  KUMAMOTO  TO  BEPPU     4^.  Rmde,    681 

plain  and  wind  placidly  through  Kumamoto  as  the  Skirakawa. 
The  thin  waterfall  which  plunges  down  the  slope  on  the  near 
side  of  the  road  and  town,  close  to  the  bridge,  is  the  Kigwrashi' 
no-taki.  In  April  the  hills,  which  tower  on  all  sides  and  close 
in  the  hamlet  like  a  pebble  at  the  bottom  of  a  bowl,  are  flecked 
with  splendid  yama-zakura  blooms.  So  vigorous  are  the  trees, 
and  so  mild  the  climate,  that  one  may  frequently  witness  the 
curious  spectacle  of  fruit  blooms  in  Oct.,  when  the  slopes  are 
crimson  with  maples  blushing  at  the  defiling  caress  of  the  so- 
called  winter.  At  both  seasons  the  place  is  pleasant,  with  a 
purity  of  air  one  would  not  expect  in  so  deep  a  depression.  To 
this  secluded  spot  come  occasional  foreigners  from  the  Chinese 
littoral,  and  native  school-boys  (under  the  leadership  of  a  be- 
goggled  professor)  on  their  way  to  or  from  Aso-san.  The  hot 
sulphur  and  the  gypsum  (sekko)  springs  which  abound  are 
supposed  to  spiut  direct  from  the  glowing  heart  of  the  volcano; 
those  in  the  inunediate  neighborhood  are  called  Toshita,  To- 
chinokif  Yunotaniy  TanUama,  and  Jigoku,  The  numerous  baths 
are  as  primitive  as  the  habits  and  ideas  of  the  people  —  the 
steaming  sulphur  water  running  through  bamboo  pipes  into 
pools  under  flimsy  sheds  which  afford  no  privacy  and  where 
men  and  women  bathe  together  in  natiure's  way.  —  Foreign 
food  cooked  in  a  savory  manner  is  served  at  the  HotelChdyo- 
ktoauy  the  primitive  little  Toshita  Inn  (supper,  bed,  and  early 
breakfast,  ¥2.60;  hot  sulphur  baths  in  a  special  inclosure, 
15  sen)y  and  the  matron  is  helpful  in  seeming  a  guide  (Ichihara 
Takeshides  is  recommended)  for  the  trip  to  the  volcano;  from 
Toshita  to  Aso-san  and  return,  one  yen;  50  sen  more  if  he  goes 
on  to  (6  M.)  BojUf  and  ¥2  if  to  Miyaji  (Inn:  Somonkwcm, 
¥2.50).  This  is  the  only  stretch  where  a  guide  is  necessary, 
as  the  trail  is  easily  lost. 

If  the  traveler  lias  a  little  time  to  spare  at  Toshita,  he  will 
be  repaid  for  the  40  min.  walk  along  the  Bdju  road  (local 
guide,  25  sen)  to  the  Sugaruga  Watbbpall  (50  ft.  high).  A 
quick  way  (not  liked  by  ladies)  is  to  scale  the  face  of  the 
high  hill  at  the  far  end  of. the  bridge  and  climb  past  the  Kir 
gurashi  Cascade  to  where  the  water  flows  through  a  weir,  then 
follow  the  narrow  path  along  the  crest  of  the  steep  ridge  at  the 
edge  of  the  upland  rice-fields.  This  trail  soon  leads  into  the 
highway,  a  short  walk  (right)  along  which  brings  one  to  a  di- 
verging path,  also  at  the  right,  terminating  at  a  ledge  where 
one  gets  a  thrilling  view  over  a  deep  valley  to  the  Sugarxt/gorUiki 
at  the  left,  and  the  almost  equally  high  Shiraito  FaU  at  the 
right.  The  two  sheets  of  wat^  plimging  into  the  ravine  with  a 
thunderous  roar,  the  foaming  river  tearing  through  the  broken 
country  below,  and  the  smoking  cone  of  Aschsan  above,  com- 
bine to  form  an  extraordinarily  striking  vista. 

The  start  for  the  ascent  of  the  Aso  Vc^cano  should  beioa^^ 
Crom  Toshita  not  later  than  5  A.M.  in  suimxieCiOt  ^  m^W£^u^\ 


682    Route  4^.     KUMAMOTO  TO  BEPPU     Aso  Vokano. 

the  hostess  will  serve  a  hot  breakfast  in  oner's  room  at  any  de- 
sired hour,  and  prepare  the  luncheon  which  the  guide  carries. 
A  bottJe  of  water  will  be  found  useful  before  the  crater  is  reached. 
Hot  tea,  cold  beer,  and  other  refreshments  can  be  had  at  tea- 
houses along  the  way,  but  the  water  should  be  avoided.  It 
should  be  remembered,  too,  that  water  used  in  making  tea  in 
Japan  is  not  brought  to  a  boil.  The  earlier  the  start  the  earlier 
one  reaches  the  inn  at  Takeda,  Furthermore,  if  one  can  man- 
age to  be  weU  on  the  way  before  the  sun  rises  over  the  sur- 
rounding mts.  one  of  the  finest  prospects  in  nature  may  be 
enjoyed  from  the  high  elevations.  —  Toshita  looks  very  pretty 
in  its  rocky  nest  beside  the  rushing  rivers  as  one  looks  down 
upon  it  from  the  broad  macadam  road  that  winds  up  out  of 
the  gorge.  A  30  min.  walk  brings  one  to  a  point  far  below 
whi(m  Tochinokirahinyu  is  descried  perched  like  a  swallow's 
nest  in  a  gorge  from  which  many  wisps  of  steam  drift  upward. 
The  view  of  the  roaring,  angry  river  as  it  rushes  downward  is 
inspiriting.  The  curious  rock  formation  at  the  left  of  the  road 
is  worth  looking  at.  The  ravine  soon  widens  and  affords  a  vista 
(at  the  far  ri^t)  of  the  (30  ft.  high)  Aigaerurtaki  C  barrier/ 
or  'trout-return'),  so  called  because  the  mt.  trout  bound  up- 
stream must  turn  back  here.  Here,  too,  one  passes  out  of  ear- 
shot of  the  resounding  river.  The  tall  mt.  at  the  right  is  jTo- 
waroryama.  —  A  steady  45  min.  ascent  from  Toshita  brings  one 
to  a  steeple  rocky  trail  which  leads  up  (left)  at  a  sharp  angle 
from  the  main  road  to  (10  min.)  a  wide,  rolling  upland  plain, 
on  the  far  side  of  which  a  thin  column  of  steam  can  be  seen 
rising  from  the  (3 J  M.)  Yunotani  Hot  SpringSf  on  the  dope  of 
what  once  formed  the  outer  wall  of  the  Aso^an  crater. 

The  view  from  this  elevated  plane  is  singularly  vivid  and 
beautiful.  The  eye  ranges  over  scores  of  peaks  and  gorges, 
and  thousands  of  square  miles  of  tumbled  valley  land  senti- 
neled by  the  ominous  volcano  pouring  out  clouds  of  black 
wrath,  and  they  all  make  a  lively  impression  upon  the  mind. 
If  one  can  reach  this  spot  when  tJie  sun's  disk  is  just  climbing 
above  the  surrounding  mts.,  and  broad  fingers  of  yellow  light 
are  ripping  aside  the  somber  curtains  of  night  and  chasing  the 
shadows  out  of  the  yawning  chasms,  one  will  experience  a  stir- 
ring of  the  blood  such  as  one  feels  at  the  summit  of  the  Matter- 
horn,  on  Tiger  HzU  in  the  Himalayas,  with  Mt,  Everest  in  the 
foreground,  or  on  the  deathly  silent  uppermost  rim  of  Popo- 
catepetl. Another  10  min.  walk  brings  one  to  a  small  cluster  of 
trees  girdling  a  deserted  shrine  on  a  summit  of  a  roimded  hill 
whence  the  view  is  even  finer.  Here  perhaps  better  than  at  any 
othier  point  one  is  able  to  appreciate  the  claim  made  for  Aso- 
san  thjEit  with  its  ancient  crater  40  M.  in  circumference  it  is 
one  of  the  most  remarkable  of  terrestrial  volcanoes.  The  pre- 
sent crater.  14  M.  by  \0^mt.h  the  longest  diameter  running 
N.  and  S.,  w  still  of  Btnkm^  ma^fiDSAx^^^  Tw^vi^ed  girdle  of 


Aso  Volcano.     KUMAMOTO  TO  BEPPU     4B.  Route.    683 

cliff  and  escarpment  which  cuts  the  horizon  at  the  right  and 
left  anciently  formed  the  outer  rim  of  the  volcano.  The  only 
gap  in  this  vast  circuit  is  seen  straight  ahead  and  was  made 
by  the  Shirakawa  perhaps  seons  ago  when  it  burst  its  way 
through  the  wall  in  its  strenuous  efforts  to  reach  the  sea.  On 
the  wide  crater  floor,  now  jumbled  into  a  confused  mass  of  hills, 
ravines,  and  smiling  meadows,  twenty  or  more  populous  vil- 
lages stand  in  fancied  security.  All  are  far  below  the  huge 
central  cone,  which  rises  bulkily  to  terminate  in  five  squat 
peaks,  the  highest  {Takordake)  5220  ft.  above  the  sea.  Each 
so-called  peak  —  merely  an  unpricked  mud-bubble  on  the  lip 
of  a  gigantic  vent  —  is  separated  from  its  mate  by  mud  and 
ash  walls,  and  but  two  are  active.  A  series  of  gentle  grassy 
slopes  lead  upward  from  the  plain  to  the  rim  of  the  newer,  yet 
unthinkably  old,  crater  wall,  over  which  one  passes  to  the 
wide  oval  pit  where  the  glowing  heart  of  this  KyUshU  monarch 
still  harbors  some  of  its  original  fire. 

Seen  from  our  vantage-point  the  inclosed  region  reminds 
one  of  a  titanic,  sunlit  amphitheater  at  the  top  of  the  world. 
Barring  the  ringing  call  of  field-larks  and  the  answering  notes 
of  other  birds,  the  peace  of  a  great  silence  broods  above  it.  The 
tiny,  blurred  cluster  of  white  houses  glinting  mUes  away  through 
the  great  gash  in  the  crater  wall  is  Ozu.  The  blue  mts.  beyond 
the  azure,  satin-Uke  sea  rise  in  pointed  grandeur  from  the  Shimor 
hara  Peninsvla,  A  myriad  wild  flowers  deck  the  grassy  slopes, 
prominent  among  them  a  dainty  little  stellate  white  flower 
like  the  Star-of-Bethlehem,  and  a  singularly  handsome  purple 
thistle  which  the  mountaineers  call  (perhaps  too  loosely)  the 
Goboj  or  burdock  (Arctium  Lappa)  and  which  they  sometimes 
cultivate  as  a  vegetable. — The  roar  of  a  distant  waterfall  rides 
down  on  the  wind  as  we  follow  the  trail  in  its  windings  up 
and  down  and  across  the  plateau  to  the  bulky,  smoking  mt. 
At  7.30  we  reach  a  commanding  eminence  whence  a  mag- 
nificent view  is  had  of  the  vast  sweep  of  land  at  our  feet,  and 
of  the  semi-circular  crater  wall  with  the  ragged  gash  torn 
through  its  ribs  countless  ages  ago  by  the  impetuous  Shira- 
kawa, The  impelling  harmony  of  the  scene  causes  one  to  turn 
again  and  again  as  one  ascends.  A  sequestered  hamlet  with  a 
cobble-paved  street  sloping  upward  beneath  shade-trees  is 
passed  at  8  o'clock,  and  40  min.  later  a  lovely,  shadow,  idyl- 
lic road  leads  through  somber  pines  to  (25  min.)  Yunotani 
village,  where  there  are  many  persimmon  trees  and  a  little  tea- 
house, from  the  terrace  of  which  a  wonderful  panorama  is 
spread  out  below.  While  one  is  enjoying  the  view  from  a  seat 
beneath  flowering  plum,  peach,  or  cherry  trees,  or  reddening 
maples,  the  nesana  scurry  around  and  brew  the  inevitable 
green  tea,  assemble  yokan  and  sweet  cakes,  and  tie  on  the  new 
waraji  (3  sen)  with  which  the  traveler  will  be  wise  to  equip 
himself  before  tightening  his  belt,  taking  ofL  \^  ^oaXi  ^^ 


684    Bmde  4£.     EUMAMOTO  TO  BEPPU     Aw  VoUano. 

starting  for  the  real  climb  in  a  whirl  of  renewed  energy.  BefOTe 
leaving  the  town  one  should  pass  into  the  yard  at  the  left  of  the 
road  (a  minute's  walk  beyond  the  c^a^^<>)>  and  inspect  the  huge 
steaming,  boiling  pool  of  mud  there  in  the  midst  of  sulphur 
fumes,  and  rocks  that  have  been  burned  a  dusky  red  bv  in- 
ternal fires.  The  region,  perhaps  an  old  volcanic  vent,  looks 
ver^  Plutonian  and  forbidding;  the  ground  in  the  immediate 
vicinity  is  treacherous,  and  the  water  is  led  away  in  pipes  to  a 
primitive  bath-house. 

The  trail  is  now  uphill  along  a  shaded  wood&-path,  then  for 
an  hour  or  more  over  the  shoulders  of  steepish,  rounded  hills 
where  much  pampas-grass  grows,  and  whence  the  views  are 
of  a  majesty  which  words  fail  to  describe.  Farmers  from  the 
microscopic  towns  far  below  come  up  to  this  point  with  pack- 
animals  and  cut  the  fine  grass  and  take  it  down  to  the  plains. 
Occasional  subterranean  grumbles  beneath  one's  feet  remind 
one  of  the  hot  fires  that  glow  not  far  below,  and  these  sounds 
are  punctuated  at  intervals  by  thunderous  explosions  that 
shake  the  ground  and  start  pebbles  rattling  down  the  mt. 
side.  A  leisurely  ascent  of  1}  hrs.  from  Yunotani  brings  one 
(at  11.15)  to  the  rim  of  another  old  crater  overlooldng  the 
wide,  grass-grown  crater  floor.  The  gray,  tortured  rocks  of  the 
massive  walls  are  pictures  of  desolation,  and  they  look  as  if 
they  had  passed  through  infernal  fires.  Before  descending  to 
the  floor  of  Aso^s  deserted  workshop,  one  gets  a  last  look  in  re- 
trospect over  the  land  which  seems  to  slope  like  a  toboggan- 
slide  into  infinity.  A  50  min.  walk  down  to  a  small  gorge 
where  the  Bdju  trail  strikes  off  at  the  left,  then  up  a  stiffish 
winding  trail,  brings  one  to  the  rest-house  just  at  the  foot  of 
Aso's  frowning  crest.  Clouds  of  smoke  ascend  amid  deafening 
noises.  Light  refreshments  are  obtainable  here,  and  for  20 
sen  one  buys  a  cane  stamped  with  the  assurance  that  one  has 
reached  the  top. 

The  Active  Crater  is  reached  by  passing  behind  the  inn, 
then  alongside  the  melancholy  little  Aso-san  Shrine,  and  up 
(20  min.)  a  desolate,  sloping  path  strewn  with  scoria  and  vol- 
canic detritus.  Great  waves  of  molten  lava  are  seen  to  have 
washed  down  the  slag-encumbered  side  of  the  cone,  and  they 
have  formed  a  fearsome  atrium,  like  that  of  an  expiring  world, 
where  deadly  peril  seems  to  stalk  abroad,  and  where  no  flowers 
bloom,  or  birds  sing.  Scrambling  over  the  parched  and  dread- 
ixiWy  distorted  lip,  one  finds  one^  self  within  the  gaunt  ribs  of 
a  still  living  skeleton  of  a  volcano  nearly  i  M .  long,  fire-scorched, 
streaked  and  smeared  with  all  the  colors  of  death's  spectrum, 
and  appalling  in  its  dying  a^ony.  These  scarified  walls  are 
among  the  most  impressive  things  in  the  interior,  since  they  tell 
all  too  pl^nly  the  terrible  tortures  to  which  they  have  been 
subjected;  they  beax  a  c\mo\ia  resemblance  to  the  walls  of  an 
old  paint-shop  whose  aWpBYvo^  owaet  >Baa  Iq\  ^^«w  tried  out 


Aso  Volcano,  BOJO  TO  TAKEDA      4^.  Route.    686 

colors  on  them.  Lateral  walls  of  crumbly  mud  and  ashes 
(dangerous)  separate  the  several  vents  (apt  to  change  wi4h 
each  eruption)  and  from  these  vast  sloping  ridges  avalanches 
slip  down  from  time  to  time.  Near  the  center  is  a  fear-inspir- 
ing hole  200  or  more  ft.  deep  and  |  M.  in  diameter  at  the  top, 
with  a  wall  that  dips  sharply  and  narrows  to  a  boiling,  roaring 
pool  of  mud  and  fire  and  sulphur  out  of  which  shoot  up  streaJcs 
of  snow-white  steam  or  billowy  eddies  of  dense  black  smoke. 
The  roar  is  like  that  from  a  titanic  blast-furnace,  and  the  heat 
as  great;  the  guide  keeps  the  stench  of  brimstone  out  of  his 
nostrils  by  t3ring  a  handkerchief  over  his  face,  but  the  turmoil 
in  one's  ears  is  ^most  deafening.  This  pit  has  a  deadly  attrac- 
tion for  persons  afflicted  with  the  suicidal  mania,  and  many 
have  jumped  into  it.  Like  Asama-yama  in  Shinano  Province, 
Aso^an  is  a  deceptive  volcano  —  smoking  quietly  to-day  and 
mayhap  screeching  hysterically  and  sending  out  temfying 
volumes  of  smoke,  hot  stones,  and  ashes,  to-morrow.  There 
are  several  active  vents  inside  the  crater,  one  a  wide  pool  of 
boilinp  mud  which  ejects  jets  of  spit^ul  steam  hi^  in  the  air. 
Occasionally  one  gets  a  furtive  reflection  of  the  mcandescent 
throat  beneath,  glowing  with  unthinkable  heat. 

The  scramble  down  from  the  cone  to  the  rest-house  takes 
25  min.,  and  10  min.  afterward  one  enters  the  Bsjii  path. 
Thence  it  is  downhill  through  a  narrow  valley,  with  the  smok- 
ing crater  at  the  right  and  high  hills  at  the  left.  At  times  the 
trail  is  blind,  and  at  others  it  loses  itself  entirely  in  the  rocky 
ravines  that  serve  as  water-courses  in  the  rainv  season.  The 
hillsides  flame  with  wild  azaleas  in  March  and  April  (30-60 
days  earlier  than  in  Central  Japan),  and  in  Oct.  small  magenta 
ones  come  out  to  herald  the  mild  winter.  Wild  white  hydran- 
geas are  common,  and  goldenrod  blooms  in  season  as  luxur- 
iantly as  in  distant  America.  After  1  hr.  BdjU  is  descried  far 
down  on  the  plain,  embowered  in  trees.  The  gigantic  semi- 
circular wall  cutting  the  sky-line  beyond  once  formed  a  segment 
in  the  outer  wall  of  the  crater.  The  app€»,rance  of  this  at  the 
right  as  we  descend  is  strangely  fantastic.  Gigantic  escarp- 
ments rise  sheer  from  the  plain  like  the  turrets  of  a  great  castle, 
and  are  supported  near  the  base  bv  stupendous  green  buttresses 
that  extena  far  out  over  the  valley  floor.  Streaked  with  the 
effects  of  the  awful  fires  through  which  they  have  passed,  and 
seemingly  ready  to  topple  over,  they  look  miles  high  when 
viewed  from  below.  Bdbind  this  forbidding  rampart  rise  the 
five  cones  which  comprise  the  present  mt.  —  jTafco-,  Kijimi-j 
Eboshi'f  Neko-,  and  Nctka-dake,  Seen  by  moonlight  from  Bdju 
or  any  of  the  towns  on  the  plain,  thev  constitute  one  of  uie 
most  impressive  sights  in  the  Midako  s  Empire. 

The  last  part  of  thedescent  is  over  a  grassy  slope  at  the  far 
right  of  which  Miyaji  village  is  seen  clustering  amid  the  tx^^s^. 
At  the  end  of  a  leisurely  walk  of  2  hrs.  ot  moi^lTQ\ix  VXi^i^V 


686    Route  ^.        TAKEDA  TO  OlTA  BSjH, 

ikouae  one  comes  to  an  old  graveyard  where  the  trail  forks;  the 
moss-grown  road  at  the  left  takes  one  (10  min.)  into  the  miun 
street  of  Bdjfl.  The  hasha^s  baiting-stable  is  just  up  at  the  left. 
—  The  broad  pike  leading  to  the  right  (£.)  crosses  the  one- 
time floor  of  the  crater,  between  this  and  the  outer  wall.  The 
road  which  turns  left  from  the  main  highway  20  min.  (by 
baaha)  from  B^u  goes  to  Miyaji  (Inn :  Yoshinoya^  ¥2) .  Sakama- 
shi  is  reached  in  ZO  min.,  and  in  a  half -hour  more  Takimuro,  on 
the  summit  of  the  E.  waJl  of  the  crater.  The  4  hrs.  ride  hence 
to  (about  13  M.)  Takeda  is  over  a  rolling  country  with  no  dis- 
tinctive features. 

Takeda  (Inn:  Masydaya,  clean,  comfortable;  ¥2  a  day),  a 
deli^tfuUy  situated  little  town  (pop.  7000)  in  a  highly  volcanic 
region  in  Bungo  Province,  occupies  what  perhaps  was  an- 
ciently the  crater  of  an  extinct  volcano.  Hills  surround  it,  and 
to  reach  it  one  must  go  through  one  of  the  score  or  more  tun- 
nels which  pierce  these  hills  and  give  access  to  it.  Brawling 
brooks  from  the  near-by  mts.  stream  through  the  town.  A 
half-mile  to  the  E.  is  a  miniature  Niagara  in  the  form  of  the 
splendid  Uozumi  Waterfall  (36  ft.  high),  which  plunges  over 
upright  basaltic  columns  at  the  E.  base  of  Aso^an,  Ten  M. 
towMd  the  S.E.  is  the  magnificent  (60  ft.  high,  300  ft.  wide) 
Chinda  FaU,  into  which  prisoners  were  formerly  cast  and  par- 
doned if  they  came  out  alive.  The  entire  region  roundabout 
abounds  in  charming  spots.  The  big  hill  near  the  town,  Oka- 
yamUj  is  the  site  of  a  one-time  castle,  the  Oka-jo,  from  1593  to 
1868  the  home  of  the  powerful  Nakagawa  family.  The  adja- 
cent country  is  covered  with  decomposed  lava,  and  ranks  as 
one  of  the  most  productive  in  Japan.  Besides  the  ordinary 
agricultural  products  it  yields  tea,  tobacco,  vegetable-wax, 
fine  shaddocks,  and  other  citrus  fruits,  prominent  among  them 
delicious  mandarin  oranges  which  sell  for  J  sen  each.  The 
surrounding  mts.  contain  alum,  copper,  iron,  antimony,  and 
lead.  The  people  are  beginning  to  appreciate  tJie  vjJue  of 
milk  as  a  food,  and  this  fluid  can  be  had  at  the  local  inns.  The 
ba^sha  baiting-stable  is  near  the  Masvdaya  Inn;  the  correct 
charge  for  a  special  hasha  (for  4  pers.)  to  (20  M.)  QUa  is  ¥4, 
although  ¥6  will  be  asked.  Jinriki  with  2  men,  about  the  same 
for  one  person. 

From  Takeda  the  road  crosses  the  rushing  and  sparkling 
Onogatva,  then  threads  a  cool  tunnel  cut  tl]^ough  tufa  and 
fined  with  moss  and  tiny  vegetable  life.  The  entire  journey 
is  over  a  charming  country  of  hills  and  dales  and  dashing 
rivers,  with  mts.  on  the  sky-line  and  picturesque  farmsteads 
on  the  hill-slopes.  A  myriad  wild  flowers  deck  the  country  in 
spring  and  summer,  and  give  place  to  glorious  woodland  tmts 
in  autumn.  Certain  reaones  remind  one  strongly  of  the  Aus- 
trian Tyrol,  others  oi  icr\iV\ft  stx^tches  in  Devonshire  or  Ken- 
tucky.  Beyond  10  M.  Niikumi  ij\a^.  VtooiToJRftdia^^  a  hoH' 


OUa,  BEPPU  iB,  Rauie,    687 

descript  village  where  the  haaha  horses  are  fed,  there  is  a  wild 
and  picturesque  goi^e  in  a  region  of  singular  beauty.  The 
road  hence  to  6  M.  (2  hrs.)  Imaichi  is  manked  by  the  orange- 
groves  and  millet-fields  for  which  Kyushu  is  renowned.  The 
views  hereabout,  as  the  road  winds  down  amid  the  hills,  and 
flanks  deep  ravines  with  thundering  rivers,  are  grand.  Swift 
runners  carrying  the  gov't  inail  done  up  in  packages  tied  to 
shoulder-pMes  speed  by  from  time  to  time,  and  impart  a  sug- 

?;estion  of  the  rapid  transit  of  Old  Japan.  Notsvharay  18}  M. 
rom  Takeda,  is  reached  7  hrs.  out,  and  Oita,  the  end  of  the 
line,  li  hrs.  later.  The  hasha  stops  near  the  rly.  station,  a 
short  distance  from  the  terminus  of  the  Beppu  electric  car-line 
(caJB  at  frequent  intervals,  13  sen). 

Oita  (sometimes  called  by  its  old  name,  Funai),  capital  of 
OUa  Prefecture,  with  30,000  inhabs.  (Inn:  Ycuyya,  ¥2)  7i  M. 
S.E.  of  BeppUi  an  important  port  on  the  Bungo  Channelf  in 
Bungo  Province,  is  of  historic  rather  than  local  interest,  and 
it  need  not  detain  the  traveler.  From  the  13th  cent,  onward  it 
was  the  home  of  the  Otomo  daimyds^  the  most  powerful  among 
ihe  Kyushu  lords.  In  the  latter  half- of  the  16th  cent,  the  do- 
mains of  the  Prince  of  Bungo  extended  from  the  StraU  of  Shir 
monoseki  southward  to  the  realm  of  the  Lord  of  Saisuma,  It 
was  at  Funai  that  the  Portuguese  adventurer  Mendes  PintOj 
kmded  in  1543,  and  gave  the  astonished  Japanese  their  first 
glimpse  of  firearms.  The  daimyo  was  frienoly  both  to  them 
and  the  Jesuit  missionaries  (who  called  him  King  Frandscus), 
and  in  accepting  their  religion  he  came  into  history  as  the  first 
daimyo  of  Japan  to  go  over  to  the  Christian  faith.  He  was 
represented  in  the  memorable  embassy  to  Rome,  Portugal,  and 
Spain,  in  1585,  by  his  nephew,  the  ruler  oi  HyUga^  whom  the 
Jesuits  called  Jerome,  A  specialty  of  Oita  is  the  cotton  yarn 
which  one  sees  in  almost  every  shop.  —  The  rly,  runs  frequent 
trains  to  Beppu,  the  present  startmg-point  (for  Shimonoseki) 
of  Rte.  43  (see  below). 

Beppu,  a  sort  of  Japanese  Karlsbad  in  a  hi^y  volcanic  re- 
gion on  the  beautiful  Beppu  Bay  (an  inlet  of  Bungo  Channel) , 
in  Bungo  Province,  at  the  W.  end  of  the  Inland  Sea,  though  but 
little  known  to  foreign  tourists,  is  one  of  the  most  interesting 

E laces  in  the  Empire  —  a  natural  masterpiece  left  unfinished 
y  Nature  in  a  region  which  Europeans  often  refer  to  as  the 
Japanese  Riviera.  The  entire  country  roundabout  reminds 
one  strongly  of  Italy  or  Sicily.  The  compact  town  (pop. 
10,000)  stands  on  the  sea-ed^  of  a  small  scorified  plain  which 
reaches  back  to,  and  up  the  sides  of,  three  extinct  volcanoes  — 
Yufuy  or  Tsukushi  Fuji  (often  called  the  Bungo  Fuji)j  4850 
ft.  high,  and  said  to  be  the  loftiest  peak  in  Bungo;  Tsyrumi 
(3619  ft.),  a  bare  mt.  at  the  right  of  it;  and  Takaacm  (2067  ft.), 
at  the  S.  end  of  the  town,  often  called  ShiMoku-^an^  and  raofira^ 
bered  by  the  natives  for  the  splmdid  castllje  (^defi^xo>}^^^xn&% 


688    Route  42.  BEPPU 

the  war  for  the  Restoration)  which  occupied  a  terraoe  on  its 
side  hi^  above  the  sea.  The  last  outburst  from  Tmirumi  was 
in  the  17th  cent,  when  it  filled  the  valley  with  the  clinker-like 
scoria  of  numerous  lava  streams.  In  due  course  much  of  this 
cindery  stuff  decomposed  and  gave  rise  to  the  rank  vegetation 
which  now  clothes  the  skirts  of  the  mts.  in  perennial  green. 
But  in  places  the  old  volcanic  wounds  failed  to  heal,  and  tiiey 
now  advertise  their  presence  by  suppurating  sorest  the  form 
of  furiously  boiling  chemical  pools  flush  with  the  surface,  or 
mineral  springs  that  spurt  out  steam  and  water  blistering  to 
the  touch.  The  district  seems  all  underlaid  with  infernal  fires, 
some  of  which  are  so  close  to  the  surface  that  the  people  cook 
their  daily  food  over  holes  punched  in  the  earth.  In  places  the 
crust  is  so  thin  that  to  sink  in  means  to  have  a  foot  parboiled 
or  burned  to  a  cinder,  while  at  others  there  are  agitated  ulcers 
which  spit  out  scarifjdng  blobs  of  Uquid  mud  accompanied  by 
menacing  sounds  and  noisome  stench^.  Streams  of  steam- 
ing water  showing  all  the  colors  of  the  rainbow  rush  down  from 
the  hills  through  the  gutters  of  the  town,  and  impart  a  most 
infernal  look  to  the  place.  Many  of  the  adjuncts  of  the  region 
are  in  strange  keeping  with  its  mediaeval  appearance. 

Hotels  (comp.  p.  zzix).  While  there  are  upward  of  190  inna  and  lodging- 
houses  that  cater  to  the  horde  of  people  who  repair  hither  each  year,  most 
foreigners  will  perhaps  prefer  to  lodge  at  the  clean,  new,  semi-forei^  Beppu 
Hotel  (Tel.  add.:  'BepteV)  at  the  W.  edge  of  the  town,  on  the  hillside,  1  M. 
(20  min.  at  the  W.)  from  the  rly.  station  (25  min.  from  the  pier;  Jinriki  from 
both  places;  20  sen),  with  the  advantage  of  pure  air,  numerous  foreign-style 
comforts  (English  spoken),  and  superb  views  (from  the  E.  side  of  the  house). 
Rates,  ¥4.50  to  ¥5  for  1  pers.;  ¥7.50  to  8  for  2  in  the  same  room;  special 
suites,  from  ¥20  to  ¥30,  Am.  pi.  —  Rooms  only,  ¥2-2.50  for  1  pers. ;  ¥3- 


Rates,  ¥4.50  to  ¥5  for  1  pers.;  ¥7.50  to  8  for  2  in  the  same  room;  special 
suites,  from  ¥20  to  ¥30,  Am.  pi.  —  Rooms  only,  ¥2-2.50  for  1  pers. ;  ¥3- 
3.50  for  2;  suites,  from  ¥15  to  ¥25.  Baths  free.  Trunks  from  the  station,  10 


sen  each.  Breakfast  only,  60  sen;  Tiffin,  ¥1 ;  Dinner,  ¥1.20.  Tea  or  coffee  with 
cakes,  20  sen.  Milk  extra.  English^peaking  guides  supplied  at  reasonable 
rates.  One  of  the  hotel-boys  will  pilot  the  stranger  about  for  a  small  fee  (¥1 
a  day  is  enough),  and  the  hotel  manager  (a  Japanese  educated  in  the  United 
States)  will  help  the  traveler  to  form  his  plans.  —  The  Hinago-ya,  an  inn 
in  Naka-machi,  near  the  chief  bath-houses  0F2  and  upward)  is  popular  with 
natives;  as  is  also  the  Koyoktoan,  and  the  Mdji,  both  5  min.  from  the  sta- 
tion. It  is  the  custom  for  the  inns  to  aid  the  municipality  in  their  main- 
tenance, and  to  provide  bath-tickets  free  to  guests. 

Steamships  of  the  Osaka  Shosen  Kaisha  leave  every  day  for  (8  hrs.;  fare, 
¥3.60,  Ist  cl.)  Miyajimat  (20  hrs.,  ¥6.51)  Kobe,  and  other  points  on  the  In- 
land Sea. 

A  magnificent  panorama  of  the  plain  on  which  Beppu 
stands  and  of  the  lovely  sea  beyond  can  be  had  from  the  ele- 
vated Kankaiji  (a  hill  and  hamlet  of  the  same  name  i  M. 
back  of  the  Beppu  Hotel)  j  poised  like  an  eaglets  nest  high 
above  a  gorge.  The  path  is  easily  followed  as  it  ascends  be- 
tween hedges  of  orange  blooms.  Tinkling  mt.  streams  ^ther 
down  over  the  stones,  and  the  bald  cone  of  Yufu-yama  rises 
brown  and  sere  at  the  right.  A  flagged  road  leads  into  the 
(J  hr.)  hamlet,  where  tiiere  are  several  hot  baths.  The  view  of 
tike  sea  is  beautiful,  mth  its  flashing  sails,  and  its  vast,  asure 
suiface  rippled  by  the  Yimd  *mVo  a*  ^ea^  ^i  ^^\kly  silk  cisjgi^ — 


BEPPU  HOT  SPRINGS    4^.  Rauie.    689 

The  Landscape  Garden  near  the  hotel^  with  waterfalls,  ravines, 
and  many  flowers,  is  called  Sansuikai,  —  The  Sanatorium 
near  by  belongs  to  the  Military  Department  of  the  Gov't. 

The  Hot  Springs  and  Baths,  with  saline,  alkaline,  and  chaly- 
beate waters  (temperature  from  100°  F.  and  upward)  charged 
with  carbonic-acid  ^as,  are  sustainedly  interesting  and  have 
been  known  (it  is  said)  from  the  6th  cent.  Of  the  many  thou- 
sands of  persons  who  foregather  here  each  year  between  Feb. 
and  Sept.  some  remain  throughout  the  winter,  as  the  peasant 
farmer  who  subsists  on  a  meaner  diet  of  grain  or  fish  is  said 
to  find  it  cheaper  to  soak  here  m  the  warm  water  than  to  pay 
for  fuel  at  home.  The  sands  of  the  shore  are  heated  by  subter- 
raneous fires  and  a  sempiternal  sun,  and  in  them  the  indigent 
make  beds  in  which  they  lie  from  morning  till  night,  like  pid- 
docks,  with  only  their  heads  and  feet  exposed.  Through  the 
sands  numerous  hot  springs  of  sanatory  water  bubble  up,  and 
scores  of  nude  men  and  women  with  ailments  scoop  out  hol- 
lows near  them,  and  half  bury  themselves  by  heaping  piles 
of  the  sand  over  an  ailing  part.  At  times  they  sit  up,  squat 
about  in  semi-circles,  chat  with  friends,  and  form  bizarre  pic- 
tures that  are  reproduced  on  the  post-cards  for  sale  in  the  shops. 
Aged  persons  of  sluggish  circulation  frequent  the  bath-houses, 
and  sometimes  lie  submerged  for  weeks  at  a  stretch,  their 
heads  pillowed  on  a  support,  a  heavy  stone  on  their  stomachs 
to  keep  them  from  floating.  Here  they  eat,  sleep,  and  have 
their  being  in  a  manner  as  primitive  as  that  of  a  Maoris  don- 
ning their  scant  clothing  (often  but  a  breech-clout  or  a  snood) 
only  when  necessity  ur^es.  The  fact  that  prolonged  inmiersion 
in  sulphurous  or  ferruginous  water  imparts  a  rusty  tinge  to  the 
hair,  and  a  general  pieoald  look,  does  not  deter  them,  and  some- 
times when  they  emerge  they  are  as  wrinkled  as  a  choice  piece 
of  old  crackled  Saiauma  faience  and  as  spotted  as  a  leper! 

Chief  among  the  30  or  more  public  bsiths  (Furoya)  are  the 
Furo-sen  (Longevity  Bath),  the  Reicho-sen  (so-called  because 
the  tubs  are  fill^  onlywhen  the  tide  makes  in  to  cool  the  water) , 
the  Higashv-onsen  (B,  Hot  springs),  Nishi  (W.)  onsen^  etc. 
The  latter  are  at  the  8.  end  of  the  town,  near  one  another,  in 
the  Hamawake  district,  beyond  the  river.  A  well-known  bath 
is  the  Kusunokir^,  or  Camphor  Tree  Bath,  so-named  for  the 
big  camphor  tree  which  grows  up  through  the  roof  and  has  a 
tiny  shrine  in  its  branches.  The  open-air  beach  baths  are 
called  Suna-yu,  or. Gravel  Baths.  In  all  of  them  rosy,  fat- 
paunched  babies,  roimded  youth,  buxom  maturity,  and  shriv- 
eled age  bathe  promiscuously  in  all  the  abandon  of  perfect 
nudity,  apparently  as  innocent  as  Eve  was  before  the  apple 
episode!  Discreet  travelers  are  not  debarred  from  inspecting 
the  baths  and  bathos  at  will^  but  the  latter  do  not  like  to  be 
photographed  when*  nude.  One  of  the  most  curious  oC  tii^ 
baths  is  at  the  adjacent  village  of  Kannaway  vssss^^MsA^ossesa^ 


690    R&uie  i2,  BEPPU  BATHS 

i^ter,  where  a  cavern  has  been  dug  in  the  side  of  a  vcdcamc 
hill,  and  where  one  enters  a  natural  steam-chamber  but  a 
foot  or  two  removed  from  Pluto's  domain. 

While  a  day  will  suffice  for  a  cursory  view  of  the  chief  points 
of  interest  aroimd  BeppUf  it  is  a  place  in  which  one  usually 
wi^es  to  linger  and  loaf,  to  luxuriate  in  the  hot  baths,  enjoy 
the  many  mt.  walks,  and  the  never-fading  charm  of  tl^  sea 
views.  No  one  with  a  little  time  to  spare  should  omit  visiting 
the  near-hy  KannawajBozu  Jigoku  (Priest's  Hell),  Umi  Jigoku 
(Suppuratmg  Hell),  Chi-no-ike  Jigoku  (Blood-lcdke  Hell),  and 
Shibaishif  afl  of  which  can  be  seen  in  the. order  namc^  in 
about  6  hrs.  (preferably  on  foot).  A  jinriki  0^1.50  for  1  man: 
^.50  for  2)  can  be  used  part  way  only,  as  the  steepness  of 
the  yils  renders  some  walking  necessary. 

Leaving  the  hotel  one  descends  to  the  town,  passes  the  rly. 
station  (left),  and  follows  (N.)  the  contour  of  the  bay,  which 
customarily  is  a  beautiful  blue.  A  walk  of  1  hr.  brmgs  one 
to  the  wide  and  partly  shaded  Kannawa  road,  which  turns  up 
left  and  goes  to  the  (1  M.)  village  of  the  same  name.  Midway 
is  a  big  rock  (right)  crowned  by  a  shrine  whence  an  entrancing 
view  of  the  sea  is  had.    Streams  of  poisonous  mineral  water 
rush  down  the  slope,  which  here  is  steep  and  rocky  enough  to 
require  two  men  for  one's  rikisha.  On  the  outskirts  of  the  vil- 
lage the  road  becomes  rougher  and  narrower;  at  frequent 
intervals  along  the  stony,  tortuous  streets,  on  the  edge  of  the     ?  | 
curbing,  rise  cement  pots  15  or  more  in.  high,  like  sections  of     i 
drain-pipe,  provided  with  wood  or  straw-mat  covers.    Steam     : 
pours  up  through  the  open  ones,  while  on  others  sit  kettles     I 
of  boiling  rice,  vegetables,  or  iron  tea-pots.    The  bath-house     ; 
is  near  the  center  of  the  village;  the  hot  cave  is  entered  from 
the  side  of  a  big  swimming-pool.    It  holds  a  dozen  or  more 
persons,  the  charge  for  each  of  which  for  the  day  is  10  sen;  one 
waits  his  turn  in  an  ante-room  until  some  one  comes  out  and 
relieves  the  crush  inside.  Foreigners  will  like  neither  the  con- 
fined air,  which  reeks  of  all  manner  of  smells,  nor  the  hot  mud 
which  drops  from  the  ceiling  and  feels  like  molten  lead  on  one's 
skin.   Persons  with  weak  hearts  and  those  unaccustomed  to 
infernal  heat  should  stay  out.  The  bathers  of  both  sexes  wear 
only  a  clean  skin,  reddened  like  that  of  a  cooked  lobster. 

Ascending  a  hill  behind  the  town,  and  following  a  path  along- 
side a  cliff  streaked  with  white,  brown,  and  yellow,  one  comes 
soon  to  a  small  factory  where  white  clay  {Shirotatichi)  is  mined 
and  used  for  various  purposes,  chiefly  as  a  base  for  tooth-pow- 
der. The  hills  which  supply  it  furnish  also  heat  and  motive- 
power  —  an  unusual  and  felicitous  combination  for  a  factory. 
Steam  hisses  from  numerous  holes  in  the  ground  and  the  air 
carries  the  odor  of  cooked  chemicals.  Beyond  are  a  number  of 
boiling-mud-holea  g^died  by  miniature  cones  out  of  which 
noxious  gaaee  and  blobs  d  b.o\.  loa^  ^^sik^.  '<q^.  The  prudent 


SHIBAISm  HOT  SPRINGS    42.  Rie.    691 

will  keep  well  in  the  path  hereabout  as  the  earth  crust  is  as 
thin  as  it  is  treacherous.  At  the  foot  of  a  small  tea-house  (no 
fees,  but  one  is  expected  to  buy  something)  extends  a  wicked- 
looking  slough  40  ft.  or  more  in  diameter,  called  Bdzu  JigokUf 
and  containing  boiling  mouse-gray,  viscous  mud  which  bubbles 
incessantly  (stronger  on  cloudy  days)  with  a  menacing  sound. 
The  keeper  of  the  tea-house  produces  a  small  bundle  of  straw, 
lights  it  on  the  bank  so  that  the  heat  and  smoke  will  blow  over 
the  siirf ace  of  the  pool,  and  by  so  doing  sets  the  whole  thing 
to  boiling  more  furiously  than  ever.  Wlien  a  bamboo  pole  is 
plunged  into  the  seething  mass,  the  latter  grunts  and  gurgles 
angrily  and  spurts  up  in  scores  of  places  —  splashing  the  over- 
hanging bushes  with  white  flakes.  Souvenir  towels  dfyed  in  the 
liquid  are  on  sale  in  the  tea-house  at  14-18  sen  each.  The  re- 
gion is  the  chosen  home  of  many  harmless  snakes  who  like  the 
warmth  and  the  hideous  toads  which  here  are  of  a  fatness 
unusual,  weighing  1  lb.  or  more  and  measuring  6-8  in.  across 
the  back! 

On  the  way  back  to  the  clay-factory  one  crosses  a  stream 
with  stones  stained  a  deep  red  by  the  iron-charged  waters. 
At  the  factory  one  should  diverge  5  min.  to  the  left  to  a  curi- 
ous pond,  the  Umi  Jigoku,  of  boiling  water  shot  with  blue  and 
green,  and  in  places  the  color  of  a  robin's  egg.  Clouds  of  steam 
drift  from  its  surface  (60  ft.  in  diameter  at  the  widest  part)  and 
the  rocks  roundabout  are  streaked  with  sulphur.  The  lethal 
but  attractive  place  has  a  fascination  for  unfortunates  with 
suicidal  intentions.  —  The  path  now  leads-  along  a  terrace 
high  above  the  village,  thence  down  a  steepish  hill  to  a  gorge 
and  a  cluster  of  houses  on  the  edge  of  a  (40  min.)  stesuming 
pool  (60  ft.  in  diameter)  known  as  Chv-no-ike  JigokUf^  with 
iron-stained  shores.  About  3  cho  (15  min.  walk)  back  in  the 
hills  lie  the  Shib  aishi  Hot  Springs,  in  a  ravine  where  a  min- 
eral-stained brook  rushes  down  to  the  sea.  One  of  the  streams 
is  a  light  crimson,  like  thin  carmine  ink.  A  feature  of  the  place 
is  a  waterfall  diverted  into  bamboo  pipes  which  carry  the 
fluid  outward  and  pour  it  over  naked  men  and  women  stand- 
ing below.  There  is  another  cave  bath-house  here  which  the 
foreigner  won't  want  to  go  into,  as  one  must  crawl  in  through 
an  approach  like  that  to  an  igloo,  then  squat  on  a  rush  mat 
thrown  over  the  stone  floor.  The  water  which  runs  beneath 
is  prune-colored.  Above  the  bath  is  another  pool  of  dark 
maroon  water,  very  poisonous-looking.  Many  of  the  rocks 
hereabout  are  of  a  tint  known  as  ox-blood.  Tne  stone  in  the 
cage  shows  fossil  leaves.  —  Returning  over  a  different  path 
across  the  hills  one  soon  reaches  the  terrace  overlooking  the 
sea.  Passing  again  through  (30  min.)  Kannawa  village,  one 
continues  along  the  highroad  (inspiring  views)  which  follows 
the  contour  of  the  mt.  to  the  (1  hr.)  hotel. 


692    Rie.  4S.     BEPPU  TO  SHIMONOSEKI 

43.  From  Beppu  vid  Kokuia  to  Moji  (Shimonoseki), 

HSshii  Main  ^ine,  Imperial  Govenunent's  KyOahfi  Railways. 

S2  M.  Several  trains  daily  in  5  hrs.;  fare,  ¥3.15,  let  cl.;  ¥1.89,  2d  d. 
South  from  Oita  the  riy.  is  under  construction  and  will  eventually  connect 
at  Miyazaki  with  the  cross-country  line  from  YoahinuUau. 

• 

From  Beppu  the  rly.  runs  N.  along  the  shore  of  the  fine  bay 
with  its  flanking  hills.  Yufvryama  rises  at  the  left.  Many 
fishing-hamlets  dot  the  beach;  at  the  vill^e  of  Kashiranari  the 
line  makes  a  wide  detour  (right)  and  affords  a  distant  view 
across  the  bav  to  Oita,  Beyond  Hiji  the  rly.  leaves  the  sea 
and  crosses  a  luxuriant  country  with  mMiy  mulberry  and  vege- 
table-wax trees.  28  M.  I7sa,  a  nondescript  town  on  the  edge  of 
a  wide  plain,  is  known  for  a  group  of  shrines  (3  M.;  jinriki, 
35  8en)y  the  Usa  HachirrmngUy  all  painted  a  bright  vermilion 
arid  dedicated  to  the  God  of  War,  to  Hime-Ogamif  and  to  the 
Empress  Jingo,  The  sea  is  visible  at  the  right.  43  M.  Nakatsu 
(Inn:  Shofuktoarif  ¥2),  a  t"hriving  town  (pop.  15,000)  in  Buzen 
Province,  produces  good  oranees,  persimmons,  and  palatable 
yokan  put  up  in  attractive  ^unders  and  sold  ^t  15  sen  the 
package.  It  stands  on  the  E.  bank  of  the  Yamakuni  RiveTf 
whose  upper  reaches  are  celebrated  for  their  beauty  xmder  the 
name  of  the  Yabakei.  —  60  M.  Yukuhashi  is  the  point  of 
departure  for  a  branch  line  to  (23  M.)  Soeda,  at  the  S.W.,  near 
Mt.  Ehiko  (3657  ft.)  which  is  much  revered  by  Shintoists  for 
its  shrines.  Hence  to  75  M.  Kokura  the  rly.  crosses  a  well- 
cultivated,  pleasing,  and  productive  region  which  calls  for 
no  particular  mention.  Electric  trolleys  hnk  the  surrounding 
country  with  82  M.  Moji;  (see  p.  650). 


r 


VI.    KOREA,  MANCHURIA,  AND  THE 
TRANS-SIBERIAN  RAILWAY 


■€ 


Route  Page 

44.  From  Shimonoseki  (Japan)  to  Fusan  (Korea)  .     .  693 

Geographical  Sketch,  695;  Ginseng,  699;  Provinces,  701; 
River  System,  704;  Climate,  705;  Health,  706;  Money. 
706;  Hunting  and  Fishing,  707;  Mines  and  Mining,  708; 
Historical  Sketch,  708;  Korean  Characteristics,  718; 
Language,  725;  Literature,  726;  The  Flag,  726;  The 
Railway  System,  727.  . 

45.  From  Fusan  vid  Sanroshin  (Masanpo),  Taikya, 
ShGfurei,  Taiden  (Kunsan,  Mokpo),  Seikwan,  and 
Eitoho  (Jinsen,  Chemulpo)  to  Seoul  (Keijo) .     .     .  728 

Masanpo,  729;  Kunsan,  730;  Mokpo,  731. 

46.  Seoul  and  its  Environs 731 

The  Korean  Pony.  737;  The  Legation  Quarter,  738:  Walls 
and  Gates,  738;  The  North  Palace,  740;  The  Big  Bell, 
742;  Marble  Pagoda.  742;  East  Palace,  743,  Art  Mu- 
seum. 745;  Botanical  and  Zodlogical  Gardens,  745; 
Queen's  Tomb,  746;  New  Imperial  Palace,  747;  Walks 
and  Excursions,  747;  To  the  Independence  Arch,  and 
The  White  Buddha,  747;  To  the  Pook  Han  Monastery. 
749;  The  Diamond  Mt.  Monasteries,  750. 

47.  From  Seoul  vi&  Ryuzan  and  Eitoho  to  Jinsen(Che- 
mulpo) 750 

48.  From  Seoul  vi&  Kaijd,  K5sha  (Kenjiho),  HeijS 
(Chinnampo)  to  Shingisha  (Antung) 752 

Kaijo,  753 ;  Heij6  (Ping  Yang) ,  754;  Chinnampo,  755 ;  The 
Yalu  River  Bridge,  756. 

49.  Manchuria  and  The  Trans-Siberian  Railway  .     .  756 


44.  From  Shimonoseki  (Japan)  to  Fusan  (Korea). 

The  Imperial  Japanese  Gov't  Rlys.  maintain  an  excellent 
and  speedy  express  service  (day  and  night),  and  the  commodi- 
ous steamers  O^nglish  spoken)  make  the  122  M.  run  in  about 
8  hrs.  The  1st  cl.  fare  of  ¥10  includes  a  2-berth  cabin  (alone 
if  the  ship  is  not  crowded)  and  meals.  The  passage  is  usually 
smooth,  but  it  can  be  rough.  For  this  reason  the  night  boats 
are  popular,  as  one  can  sleep.  Upper-deck  cabins  (portholes 
can  be  left  open)  are  preferable  and  can  be  reserved  (no  extra 
cost)  by  telegraphing  ahead  to  the  station  agent  at  either  port. 
Red-capped  porters  meet  trains,  and  for  a  small  fee  will  see 
the  traveler  to  his  cabin.  Transfers  are  made  without  friction 
and  in  a  quiet,  svstematic  wav  that  appeals  to  one.  At  Fusan 
ships  tie  up  at  the  pier  near  the  rly.  station.  Customs-officers 
insect  luggage  on  the  boat.  Foreigners  are  taken  but  little 
notice  of,  as  they  are  supposed  hot  to  be  en^a%ed\\iB»T£lSl2;gg^ss%« 


694    Rie.  44-    SHIMONOSEKI  TO  KOREA  Puaan. 

These  entering  Japan  are  asked  if  they  have  tobacco  in  any 
form.  Opium  la  exoluded  and  is  a  risky  thine  to  have  in  one  s 
possession.  After  leaving  Skimonoseki  Slrait  die  ahip  enters  the 
Genkai  Nada  and  follows  a  N.W.  com-se  along  Tsushima 
Island  (in  the  war  zone;  no  photographing)  visible  at  the  S, 
and  celebrated  aa  the  base  for  Admiral  Togo's  aquadron  during 
the  Russian  War,  Iki  Island  is  farther  8.  —  Bare  and  precipi- 
tous hillB  mark  the  sea  approach  to  Fuaon  (68  M.  from  Tsw 
ehima),  which  lies  at  the  upper  end  of  a  crescent-shaped  bay 
half-encircled  by  hills  that  rise  to  a  height  of  800-2000  ft. 
The  big  bare  island  at  the  left  ia  Deer  Island  (.letsueilO)  and 
beyond  it  ia  Chinhai  Bay  (in  the  war  zone).  Some  fantastic 
rocks  atart  up  near  the  entrance  to  the  harbor  (right)  ajid  pro- 
duce a  curious  mirage  effect.  The  white-clad  Koreans  alwaya 
seen  sitting  in  fatuous  vacuity  on  the  rocks  at  the  head  of  the 
bay  have  been  aptly  likened  to  pelicans  or  penguina.  —  Pass- 
ports are  unnecessary.  —  The  first-class  ships  of  the  Nippon 
Yusen  Kaisha  and  of  the  Osaka  Shosen  Kcnsha  also  ply  be- 
tween the  two  ports.  Their  offices  are  near  the  rly.  station 
(an  imposing  red-brick  and  granite  structure  recogniiable  by  ita 
clock-tower). 


BcmduoUdonUieEuropeiuiPluioiiLy.  Itoomror  Ihouighl.  for  1  pen.fram 
¥1.50  to  ¥2.S0:  tor  24  bra..  ¥2.50  to  ¥3.50.  Breakfast,  ¥1;  Tiffin,  ¥1.30; 
Diaoer,  ¥1.50,  LuncbeoD,  ¥l;  Ten,  20  sea:  Bath.  15  lea.  Hoof-gardes;  fine 
views.  Snsliah  apoken.  RoomB  aa  be  engageil  by  Mlegrapb  (bond  nies- 
ugn  to  tbe  Train  Boy)  free.  A  larger  tioul  ia  plauoed  for  tho  ■ummil  of 
RgutS  Hill,  near  tbe  sWtion,  —  1  i,i,»  in  the  native  stylet  Oitt,  ilotiua. 
ifarulo.  etc.,  from  ¥2.60  and  upward. 

Fusan  (Korean,  Pusan,  or  '  Pot  Mt.'),  an  important  and 
growing  port  at  the  southeasteramost  point  of  the  Korean 
PetdTisnia,  374  M.  from  Seoul,  in  South  Kyong-Syang  Pro- 
vince and  lat.  35°  06'  N.,  now  celebrated  as  the  Far-Eastern 
terminus  of  the  great  transcontinental  rly.  which  linka  Eu- 
rope to  Japan,  is  the  landing-ptace  for  most  travelers  from 
Japan,  and  the  stepping-off  place  for  those  who  leave  the  con- 
tinent for  Shimonoseki.  It  ia  picturesquely  situated  at  the 
foot  of  the  VoTi-sen  Mt.,  which  rises  bulkily  behind  the  docks 
and  rly.  station,  but  a  few  hundred  yards  from  the  aea.  It  has 
been  held  and  claimed  by  the  Japanese  from  time  immemorial, 
and  as  the  nearest  port  to  Japan,  it  has  been  the  landing-place 
for  their  Hrmies  since  the  days  of  the  mythical  Empress  Jingo. 
For  centuries  Fusan.  was  the  strongest  town  in  Korea,  and  tor 
many  years  the  Nipponese  maintamed  a  trading  factory  here 
under  conditions  very  similar  to  those  imposed  upon  the  Dutch 
at  Hirado  and  Nagasaki.  Once  a,  foothold  was  secured  they 
clung  to  the  place  with  a  gri[)  which  tbe  Koreans  could  never 
loosen.  The  lofty  cryptomerias  wluch  adorn  the  aummit  of 
SyMo-aan  are  said  tohs.ve^Kftti'e^t^d  by  them  in  1592,  aod 


Geography,  KOREA  U-  Route.    695 

every  sign  of  progress  one  notes  in  the  place  is  due  to  these  piir^ 
poseful  and  tenacious  islanders.  The  port  was  formally  openc  ' 
to  them  by  the  treaty  of  1876,  and  since  then  its  trade  has 
creased  so  that  now  it  amounts  to  upward  of  16  million  yd 
year.  It  is  being  so  rapidly  Japanned  out  of  its  decadence  &d 
msularism  that  now  one  third  of  the  exports  and  two  thirds  of 
the  imports  of  the  entire  country  pass  tnrough  it.  The  domin- 
ating note  is  Japanese,  and  those  familiar  with  it  two  decades 
a^go  would  scarcely  recognize  it  now  with  its  pretentious  sta- 
tion and  big  commercial  buildings.  Of  the  50,000  inhabs.  29,000 
are  Japanese,  and  each  one  is  busy  doing  something.  Wide 
areas  are  being  reclaimed  from  the  sea;  solid  retaining-walls 
are  being  built;  new  docks  are  under  way;  the  harbor  is  being 
dredged  to  permit  the  entrance  of  ships  of  deep  draught;  a  mil- 
lion tons  of  rock  have  been  drilled  from  the  granitic  sides  of  the 
forbidding  Yon-saHf  and  7  million  yen  are  being  spent  to  make 
Fu8an  the  biggest  entry  port  of  the  peninsula.  The  entire 
place  resembles  a  transplanted  bit  of  the  hustling  Island  Em- 

Eire.  Waterworks,  industrial  schools,  postal  facilities,  a  good 
otel,  and  a  host  of  modem  conveniences  are  among  t^e  im- 
provements introduced,  and  more  are  to  come. 

Only  a  small  section  of  the  town  can  be  seen  from  the  bay,  as 
it  is  packed  snugly  between  the  hills  that  rise  abruptly  around 
it.  The  old  Korean  town  of  Pitsan  stands  at  the  other  extre- 
mity of  the  narrow  pass  through  which  the  main  street  leads, 
facing  an  arm  of  the  bay  that  makes  in  there.  The  streets 
are  narrow  and  unsavory,  and  the  shops  small  and  poor.  The 
wares  of  many  of  these  are  displayed  on  mats  stretched  on  the 
street,  and  over  the  tawdry  collections  the  Koreans  haggle 
amid  considerable  screeching.  The  traveler  with  time  to  spare 
can  get  a  comprehensive  view  of  the  twin  settlements  by  climb- 
ing the  low  Ryutosan  (*  Dragon-Lantern  Hill  0  which  faces 
the  landing.  Several  paths  lead  up  beneath  grateful  shade. 
Just  below  the  small  park  at  the  summit  is  a  Buddhist  temple 
dedicated  to  the  spirit  of  Koto  Kiyomasa,  The  stone  slab 
commemorates  the  soldiers  who  died  in  the  Japan-China  War. 
The  surrounding  hills  are  said  to  contain  gold.  —  About  50  M. 
N.  of  Fusan  is  the  old  town  of  KyonjUf  anciently  the  capital 
of  the  Kingdom  of  Silla,  and  the  home  of  everything  that  was 
greatest  and  best  in  Korean  art  and  literature.  From  here 
many  of  the  artistic  inspirations  of  the  early  Japanese  were 
drawn. 

Geographical  Sketch.  —  The  Peninsula  of  Korea  (between 
33**  12' and  43°  02' of  N.  lat..and  124°  18' and  130°  54' of  long. 
E.  of  Greenwich)  is  bounded  on  the  N.  by  Manchuria  and  the 
Russian- Asiatic  maritime  province  of  Primorskaya  (upon  which 
it  abuts  for  11  M.  inward  from  the  Japan  Sea) ;  on  the  E.  bv  the 
Japan  Sea;  on  the  S.  by  the  Eastern  Sea  {Ttmg-haiy'aDa  thA 
Korea  Channel,  and  on  the  W.  by  the  YeWow  ^ea  i^H>D«iM^^^' 


J 


696    Rotde  44-  KOREA  Geography. 

Its  northernmost  part  is  delinmed  by  the  Tumen  (which  flows 
into  the  Japan  Se^  at  the  E.)  and  the  Ycdu  River  (which  emp- 
ties into  the  Yellow  Sea),  and  between  them  by  the  Shan  Yan 
CEver-White')  Mts.  —  the  source  of  both  strejams.  Its  total 
length  (fromN.  to  S.)  is  about  600  M.;  its  coast-line  is  1700 
(50OO  including  the  islands).  Its  widest  part  (between  the 
mouths  of  the  Tumen  and  Yalu)  is  350  M.;  its  narrowest  (in 
the  vicinity  of  Seoul)  about  120  M.  The  total  area  (much 
smaller  than  formerly)  is  estimated  at  85,000  sq.  M.  (practically 
that  of  Utah,  Kansas,  or  the  British  Isles) .  About  one  tenth  is 
under  cultivation.  It  is  more  than  half  as  large  as  all  Japan, 
including  Formosa,  the  14  million  or  more  inhabitants  being 
augmented  by  300,000  Japanese  (rapidly  increasing  in  num- 
bers), 14,000  Chinese,  500  Americans,  200  English,  and  200  of 
other  nationalities.  In  general  shape  and  relative  position  to 
the  continent  of  Asia,  Korea  resembles  Florida,  but  is  unlike 
it  in  that  it  is  a  land  of  rugged  mts.  Those  at  the  N.  are  densely 
wooded,  but  the  S.  is  sobare  and  drear  that  the  Japanese 
often  refer  to  the  entire  peninsula  as  'the  land  of  treeless  mts.' 
The  sinuous  ridge  of  lofty,  towering  peaks  starts  up  like  a 
great  buttressed  wall  at  the  N.  boundary,  as  if  striving  to  hold 
back  the  flowing  Siberian  steppes.  Its  trend  S.  is  from  the 
celebrated  Paikhtu  San  (White-Head  Peak;  7800  ft.)  —  the 
monarch  of  the  Ever- White  Range  —  and  passing  throu^  the 
center  of  the  N.E.  province  of  Ham  Gyong  it  reaches  the  E.  coast 
at  about  the  40th  parallel  of  latitude.  Thence  it  extends  in  a 
continuous  line  to  the  extreme  S.,  here  and  there  on  its  way 
throwing  out  lateral  spurs  that  wind  toward  the  W.  coast. 
Among  the  arms  of  this  great  axial  range,  nearly  midway  be- 
tween the  extreme  N.  and  S.,  rises  the  (5856  ft.)  Diamond 
Mountain  {Keum-Kang  San)y  so  called  for  a  fancied  resemblance 
of  its  (greatly  exaggerated)  *  Twelve  Thousand  Serrated  Peaks  * 
to  rough  diamonds.  Perched  high  among  them  stand  the 
great  historic  Buddhist  monasteries  of  Korea,  celebrated  alike 
for  their  antiquity  and  the  grandeur  of  their  environment. 
According  to  the  natives  this  range  winds  in  and  out  99  times 
in  its  progress  down  the  peninsula,  and  in  addition  to  this 
maze  there  is  a  complicated  pass  called  *  Pass  of  the  Ninety- 
nine  Turns.'  The  E.  section  of  this  rugged  spine  which  divides 
the  country  into  two  parts  is  merety  a  narrow  strip,  fertile 
but  comparatively  inaccessible,  sloping  sharply  to  the  Sea 
of  Japan;  the  W.  section  comprises  the  main  body  of  the  in- 
habited Korean  territory  —  well  watered,  poorly  cultivated 
but  phenomenally  rich  and  admirably  suited  for  agriculture. 
Craters  of  long  extinct  volcanoes,  of  time-eroded  lava  streams 
and  other  signs  of  volcanic  action  are  constantly  met  with,  and 
t^ey  as  constantly  remind  old  travel^^  of  the  Transvaal  and 
IQmber ly  r^ons,  with  all  their  suggestive  possibilities.  ThaJt 
the  mts.  are  streaked  w\t^x  g»o\^  \ar&sy9r[i  Vi  U\&  mineral  out- 


.Geography.  KOREA  U-  Rfnde,    697 

put;  it  remains  for  some  skilled  prospector  to  find  the  dia- 
monds, and  thus  confirm  the  name  unwittindy  given  by  the 
Koreans  to  the  peaks.  History  records  that  during  the  terri- 
ble days  of  the  Middle  Ages,  when  the  country  was  ruled  by 
cruel  and  half-demented  emperors,  the  peasants  were  forced  to 
flee  for  their  hves  to  the  mts.,  and  once  there,  to  bum  the  trees 
thereon  to  keep  from  freezing.  Each  year  sees  more  and  more 
of  the  denuded  slopes  covered  with  young  trees,  and  the  For- 
estry Bureau  of  the  Imperial  Japanese  Gov't,  is  imtiring  in  its 
efforts  to  make  physical  Korea  match  its  almost  perfect  cumate. 

Korea's  nearest  over-sea  neighbor  on  the  S.  is  Japan,  from 
which  it  is  separated  by  122  M.  of  island-dotted  strait.  Mid- 
way, between  the  Tsushima  Channel  of  Japan  and  the  Korea 
Channel  of  Korea,  is  the  celebrated  Tsushima  (*  Twin-Island ') 
the  sentinel  of  the  S.  entrance  to  the  Sea  of  Japan,  and  Nip- 
pon's naval  base  during  her  titanic  struggle  with  the  Musco- 
vites. Not  far  to  the  E.,  the  Russian  Armada  of  38  modem 
fighting  ships  imder  Admiral  Rozhdestvensky  were  *by  the 
grace  of  Heaven  and  the  help  of  the  gods'  annihilated  by 
Togo's  fleet  during  the  battle  of  the  Sea  of  Japan,  March  27- 
28,  1905.  Between  Tsushima  and  the  Korean  promontories 
of  the  S.  coast  is  one  of  the  most  remarkable  archipela^s  of 
the  world,  unknown  to  Europe  until  Captains  Maxwell  and 
Basil  Holly  in  the  Alceste  and  the  Lyra,  navigated  it  in  1816; 
here  200  or  more  islets  of  many  shapes  and  sizes,  from  bold 
masses  of  wild  and  arid  rock  a  thousand  or  more  ft.  high,  to 
low,  cultivated  islands  barely  awash  at  high  tide,  dot  the  sea, 
shelter  a  m3rriad  sea-fowl,  and  form  a  shoal  that  completely 
screens  the  mainland  from  approachmg  ships.  Some  are 
thickly  wooded;  others  bare  and  of  forbidding  aspect.  Those 
that  are  submerged  by  the  spring  tides  help  to  render  the  coast 
one  of  the  most  dangerous  known  "to  navigators.  Sponges, 
pearls,  beautiful  corm-beds,  and  a  host  of  bizarre  marine 
creatures  dwell  in  the  waters  roundabout  them.  The  largest, 
most  important,  and  the  most  fertile  of  the  islands  (some- 
time noted  for  its  fine  pearls)  is  Chyoi-ju  or  Quelpart  (40 
M.  long  by  17  broad),  distant  60  m.  from  the  S.W.  corner  of 
the  peninsula;  with  a  population  of  100,000,  chiefly  fisher- 
men, and  an  infamous  reputation  for  shipwrecks.  It  is  an 
elliptical,  rock-bound  island  almost  covered  with  conical  mts. 
(many  of  them  extinct  craters)  culminating  in  the  lofty  Hal4a 
San  or  Mt.  Auckland  (6588  ft.),  on  the  top  of  which  are  triple 
extinct  craters  each  holding  a  lake  in  its  burned-out  cone. 
Cultivation  rises  to  the  2000  ft.  level.  The  towns  are  of  no 
special  interest  to  foreigners. 

Travelers  know  this  region  as  one  of  the  most  beautiful 
of  the  world,  particularly  during  certain  seasons.  A  etui 
through  the  cluster  on  a  fine  summer  da^,  when  atmospheric 
conditions  are  propitious  for  the  formatioa  of  th&  ^csiiii^ssA?^ 


698    Route  44-  KOREA  Geography. 

Inferior  Mirages  for  which  the  locality  is  celebrated,  is  an  ex- 
perience one  does  not  forget.  Then  the  whole  Korean  world 
looks  ghostly,  and  the  islands  loom  upside  down  in  a  way 

.  that  amazes  the  beholders.  At  times  the  sea  is  almost  ripple- 
less;  at  others  tremendous  tides  scour  through  the  channels, 
and  dense  fog-banks  add  to  the  treachery  of  the  tides.  The 
Korean  port  of  Fuaan  —  the  landing-place  for  many  travelers 
from  Japan  —  faces  Tsushima  (which  belongs  to  Japan),  and 
from  tins  point  round  the  E.  coast  of  the  mainland  (where 
there  are  no  islands),  the  rise  and  fall  of  the  tides  is  1  to  2  ft. 
In  singular  contrast  are  the  conditions  on  the  W.  coast;  at 
Chemulpo  the  stream  rushes  in  with  startling  rapidity  and 
violence  to  a  depth  of  37  ft.  The  tidal  range  is  greater  in  sum- 
mer and  autumn  than  in  winter  and  spring.  A  winding  chan- 
nel leads  up  the  bay,  and  tmless  big  ships  moor  head  and  stem 
in  the  constantly  altering  fairway,  they  will  be  left  sticking  in 
the  black  mud  when  the  tide  swirls  out.  The  flat-bottomed 
native  junks  are  fashioned  to  meet  this  contingency,  and  one 
may  often  see  a  dozen  or  more  resting  on  the  black  mud  of  the 
harbor  bottom,  looking  like  fat  geese  or  beached  scows.  The 
tidal  stream  is  so  strong  that  it  runs  for  56  M.  up  the  Han 
River f  to  the  rapid  near  Morpu,  There  are  several  fine  harbors 
and  sheltered  ports  on  this  deeply  indented  coast.  The  richest 
section  of  Uie  peninsula  flanks  the  Han  Rit^er  from  its  mouth 
to  its  source  in  the  Kevm-kang  San.  Much  of  the  soil  is  rich 
alluvium,  from  5  to  10  ft.  deep,  capable  of  bearing  two  bumper 
crops  a  year  with  little  or  no  enriching.  Few  of  the  hills  are 
terraced  as  in  Japan.  Many  wild  flowers  deck  them  after  the 
rains,  and  fine  purple  thistles  grow  in  profusion.  —  Outside 
the  capital,  which  is  practically  the  only  city  worth  seeing, 
there  are  few  places  of  importance.  The  small  towns  are  mere 
clusters  of  hovels  with  naxrow,  dirty  streets,  and  a  preponder- 
ance of  listless  men  and  frowsy  women.  Abominable  stenches 
abound,  and  open  drains  are  common.  The  most  important 
of  the  ports  are  mentioned  in  their  proper  places  in  the  Guide- 
book. 

The  merciful  hand  of  Providence  has  bestowed  on  the  Kore- 
ans a  magnificent  land  abounding  in  resources  of  all  kinds  — 
one  where  none  ought  to  be  poor,  and  where  misery  ought  to 
be  unknown  —  a  land  whose  products  and  riches  of  many 
kinds  are  abundant,  and  as  varied  as  they  are  rich.  With  a 
superb  climate,  an  abundant  rainfall,  a  productive  soil,  and  a 
hardy  people;  with  mts.  sprinkled  with  gold,  coal,  iron,  silver, 
copper,  and  lead;  with  an  extensive  coast-line  laved  by  a  sea 
teeming  with  fine  fish  from  whales  to  sardines,  and  dotted  with 
islands  noted  for  their  pearls,  Korea  has  lacked  only  a  good 
gov't  to  make  it  one  of  the  most  opulent  countries  of  the  gor- 

^eouB  East.  Earthquakes  are  unknown;  typhoons  are  rare; 

its  wonderful  climate  maksB  ol  \}[i<&  onMo^x^  &  sort  of  open-air 


AgricuUure.  KOREA  ^.  BtnOe.    669 

sanatorium,  and  its  bright,  beautiful,  strangely  calm  and  per- 
fect mornings  —  clear  as  the  tones  of  a  chapel  bell,  and  musi- 
cal with  the  call  of  many  birds  —  fill  the  spirit  with  the  electric 
joy  of  youth,  and  with  a  tranquillity  all  too  rare  in  this  work-a- 
day  world.  It  is  fast  becoming  a  health  resort  for  the  steamed 
colonials  of  the  China  and  India  littoral^  and  in  the  summer  the 
attractive  hotel  at  Seoul*  \b  full  to  overflowing  with  limp  and 
enervated  Europeans  from  the  torrid  south. 

AoRicuLTURE  is  the  national  industry  and  it  ^ves  occupation 
to  six  or  seven  millions  of  the  people.  The  native  methods  are 
so  primitive  that  ere  long  the  production  will  be  trebled  by  the 
modem  system  introduced  by  the  Japanese.  Tliree  men  at 
least  are  required  to  use  a  spade — one  to  guide  it  by  the  handle, 
two  others  to  raise  it  from  the  ground  by  ropes  attached  to  a 
long  blade,  and  the  latter  are  sometimes  increased  to  six  or 
eight.  Oxen  are  employed  to  drag  ploughs  (wooden  with  a 
removable  iron  shoe)  as  crude  as  those  of  early  Mexico  or 
Egypt.  Rice  and  barley  are  threshed  on  a  board,  or  with  a 
flail,  and  winnowed  by  throwing  the  grains  into  the  air;  then 
they  are  nulled  by  pestles  in  a  wooden  mortar.  Tlie  chief 
crops  are  rice,  beans,  pease,  millet,  wheat,  barley,  tobacco, 
cotton,  castor-oil,  potatoes,  melons,  and  peppers.  The  people 
are  inordinately  fond  of  lettuce,  and  nearly  every  yard  has  a 
plot  of  it.  Besides  teaching  the  Koreans  methods  for  the  de- 
velopment of  the  land  on  scientific  lines,  the  Japanese  have 
established  model  farms,  miniature  cotton  and  tobacco  plan- 
tations; horticultural,  forestry,  and  seedling  stations,  and 
besides  stocking  the  country  with  fresh  seeds  and  new  agri- 
cultural tools,  tney  have  taught  the  people  how  to  breed  and 
care  for  live-stock,  and  have  quadrupled  the  yearly  output  of 
Korean  silk.  The  country  has  been  referred  to  as  a  'natural 
orchard,'  and  experts  are  supplanting  certain  of  the  poorly 
developed  fruits  with  American  pears,  grapes,  apples,  etc.  The 
appearance  of  the  Korean  peasantry  often  tempts  one  to  para- 
phrase Artemtts  Ward^s  remark  about  Spain,  ana  agree  with  him 
that  there  would  be  more  arable  land  if  the  people  did  not 
carry  so  much  of  it  around  on  their  persons  I 

Ginseng  (Panax  Schinseng)^  originally  a  wild  Manchurian 
product^  is  one  of  the  most  valuable  economic  plants.  Credu- 
lous Chmese  ascribe  almost  miraculous  curative  powers  to  it, 
and  ailing  persons  wUl  sometimes  pay  $200  for  a  special  root 
3  or  4  in.  long  and  weighing  but  a  few  ounces.  The  Chinese 
name  jin-tsan  (or  jin^shen)  is  said  to  allude  to  the  resemblance 
of  the  forked,  carrot-like  root  to  the  le^  of  a  man  (jvh),  Panax 
(Greek,  'all-healing^)  expresses  the  Asiatic  belief  in  its  c^cacy. 
The  Japanese  name,  ninjinj  is  the  word  for  carrot,  and  its  hi^ 
price  is  referred  to  in  the  proverb.  Ninjin  hide  hubi  hukwru 
('after  ginseng,  death  by  hanging*)  meaning,  'you  will  prob- 
ably get  well  if  you  eat  ginseng,  but  you  will  £.eol  Yi>XD%S!9C  «SLNflR^ 


7D0    Route  U-  KOREA  The  Flora, 

ward,  for  it  will  make  you  poor.'  The  manufactured  product, 
red  ^ins^ig,  whose  only  medicinal  effect  is  that  of  a  mild  aro- 
matic stimulant,  is  known  to  Chinese  and  Koreans  as  Hona- 
sam.  The  cultivated  root  is  esteemed  less  highly  than  the  wild 
(which  grows  in  N.  Korea  and  Manchuria),  one  kin  of  the 
former  bringing  only  45  tads  in  the  Shanghai  market,  against 
30  tads  of  the  American  product  (Panax  quinquefoliuSy  we  in- 
troduction of  which  broke  the  market  and  brought  down  the 
price),  and  3  taeh  for  the  Japanese  plant  (which  is  cultivated 
in  many  of  the  provinces  of  Japan).  Korean  ginseng  has  al- 
ways b^n  highly  esteemed  at  the  Peking  Court,  and  anciently 
it  was  included  m  the  annual  tribute.  Its  cultivation  has  long 
been  a  goVt  monopoly,  and  is  at  present  in  charge  of  the 
Monopoly  Bureau  of  the  Chosen  Gov't.  The  annus!  produc- 
tion is  about  6000  lbs.,  the  best  quaUty  bringing  ¥80  per  lb. 
The  plant  is  cultivated  in  ^und  which  has  not  oeen  used  for 
ginseng  culture  for  7  yrs.  The  carefully  fenced  beds  (of  sand, 
leaf-mould,  etc.)  are  about  18  in.  wide  and  24  high.  When  2 
yrs.  old,  the  plant  puts  forth  2  leaves,  and  2  yrs.*lat^  it  has  4 
leaves  and  is  6  in.  high.  It  reaches  maturity  in  the  6th-7th 
yr.,  up  to  which  time  it  is  tended  with  extreme  care  and  is  shel- 
tered from  the  sun  and  wind  by  reed  bhnds  stretched  above  or 
slanting  at  the  side  of  the  plots,  and  inclining  slightly  to  the  S. 
Hong^am  can  be  made  only  out  of  the  roots  of  plajits  5  yrs. 
old  and  upward.  After  being  steamed  and  dried,  the  *  he&rda  * 
and  *  tails '  are  cut  off,  the  trunks  are  classified  according  to  size 
and  quality  and  packed  in  neat  baskets  of  5  catties  each. 

Southern  Korea  is  practically  bare  of  trees,  but  the  mts.  of 
the  N.  and  E.  provinces  contain  splendid  forests  which  cover 
wide  areas;  chief  among  the  indigenous  trees  are  silver-fiLrs, 
many  species  of  pine,  oak,  and  maple;  birch,  juniper,  mt.  ash, 
hazel,  lime,  willow,  alder,  larch,  chestnut,  poplar,  walnut,  etc. 
Vast  quantities  of  timber  (chiefly  larch,  red-pine,  and  walnut) 
are  felled  annually  in  the  Hyoisanrchin  Mt.  (the  center  of  the 
forest  on  the  upper  reaches  of  the  Yalu)  and  rafted  down  to 
Shvnr-wiju  —  the  huge  rafts  constituting  picturesque  features 
of  the  Yalu  River.  BVom  the  several  species  of  hornbeam  found 
in  the  peninsula,  the  Koreans  make  mtJlets,  handles,  and  agri- 
cultural implements.  The  Forestry  Bureau  is  busily  engaged 
in  afforestation  throughout  the  country  (many  stations),  and 
among  the  thousands  of  trees  planted  yearly  the  splendid  I 
Cryptomeria  japonica  figures  largely,  along  with  the  quick- 
growing  acacias.  Splendid  groves  ot  Spanish  chestnuts  are 
features  of  the  upper  reaches  of  the  Han  River.  The  Umbrella 
Pines  are  called  Parasol  Pines,  because  they  resemble  in  shape 
the  parasols  carried  over  the  Kin^.  Many  of  the  gnarled,  weird 
Japanese  pines  are  seen,  but  not  m  such  profusion  as  in  Japan. 

The  Floba  is  extensive  and  interesting,  but  not  so  varied  or 
prolific  as  th&t  oi  3apasi.  'l^  ^\\mA  dsi4  ^^Ibjsnies  bloom  just 


Provinces.  KOREA  U.  Rmde,    701 


as  beautifully,  and  wild  azaleas  flame  from  the  hillnslop^  just 
as  they  do  around  Karuizatua  and  other  places  in  the  island 
Empire.  The  several  varieties  of  clematis  warm  the  hearts  of  * 
travelers  from  New  England,  and  the  splendid  rhododendrons 
impart  a  semi-tropic  aspect  to  the  land.  In  some  places  frag- 
rant honeysuckle  is  as  plentiful  as  aXNikkd.  Travelers  will  not 
fail  to  note  the  omnipresent  climbing  ivy  classified  as  Ampel- 
opsis  (of  the  family  VitacecB  —  a  near  relation  to  the  JapjEm- 
ese  ivy)  and  the  many-flowered  rose  (a  Japanese  species,  Rosa 
mvUiflora)j  which  climb  to  the  topmost  points  of  the  loftiest 
trees  to  flaunt  their  beauties  wantonly  in  the  face  of  the  sun. 
Tiger-liUes,  weigelas,  gentians,  peonies,  marigolds,  butter- 
cups, violets,  white  aconite,  dandelions,  asters,  syringa,  spirsa, 
pink  iris,  and  many  other  old-fashioned  flowers  and  flowerinjg 
shrubs  grow  in  profusion.  In  S.  Korea  plums  put  forth  their 
pinkish-white  blooms  in  late  Jan.,  and  peaches  and  cherries 
follow  soon  thereafter,  albeit  the  displays  are  not  so  extensive 
as  in  Japan. 

For  purposes  of  civil  administration  Korea  is  divided  into 
13  Province^:  (^d),  all  maritime,  all  based  mainly  on  the  river 
basins;  andplkmed  (the  8  originals  ones)  by  uniting  the  initial 
syllables  oPfiie  largest  cities  within  their  borders;  for  example, 
Hoang-chiu  and  Hairchiu,  when  thus  separated  form  the  pro- 
vince of  Hoang-hai.  They  are  subdivided  into  eleven  prefec- 
tures (pw)  and  333  districts  (fctZw)*  The  present  excellent  sys- 
tem of  gov't  is  modeled  on  that  of  Japan.  Japanese  names  are 
being  given  gradually  to  the  provinces  and  cities.  The  annual 
income  is  about  30  million  yen,  and  is  equaled  by  the  expendi- 
tures. About  8000  steamers,  sailing-ships  and  junks  touch  at 
Korean  ports  each  year.  The  largest  of  the  provinces.  North 
AND  South  Ham-Gyong  (Complete  View),  with  1,388,611  in- 
habitants, border  Manchuria  and  Asiatic  Russia,  from  which 
they  are  separated  by  the  Tumen  River  and  the  Ever-White 
Mts.  The  region  (called  Kankyo  by  the  Japanese)  is  one  of 
lofty,  forest-clad  mts.  —  the  home  of  the  tiger,  leopard,  the 
huge  Korean  bear,  and  of  much  small  game.  Within  the  boun- 
daries is  Paik-Tu  Mt.f  a  limestone  formation  prominent  in 
Korean  folk-lore  as  the  abode  of  a  benevolent  goddess  who 
presides  over  the  entire  country.  Chinese  writers  have  com- 
pared the  peak  to  a  'white  porcelain  vase  with  a  scalloped 
rim,'  and  it  is  believed  ( by  the  credulous)  that  the  white- 
haired  fauna  of  the  district  never  injures  man.  Snow  covers 
Paik-Tu  for  10  months  of  the  year.  The  chief  port,  Wonr^an,  on 
the  S.  shore  of  Broughton  Bay,  contains  little  to  interest  trav- 
elers. Ships  of  the  Osaka  Shosen  Kaisha  ply  weekly  to  Fusan 
(297  M.;  fare,  ¥15),  Osaka  (618  M.  ¥30),  and  to  minor  porta 

North  and  South  Phyong-An  (Tranquil  Peace)  or  Pfatf 
YanQy  or  Heian,  lie  to  the  W;  of  the  above  provinces  aiid 
flank  Manchuria  and  the  Yalu  River  at  the  ^ .,  «Xi!^\XM^X^finn 


» 

b 


702    Roule  I',.  KOREA 

Sea  at  the  W.  They  belie  their  peaceful  name,  (or  S.  PA 
An  had  been  the  great  battlefield  o!  Korea  for  ages.  Fot 
turies  it  was  the  gate  of  ingress  (or,  and  outlet  to,  China,  laA 
on  its  wide  pliuns  (which  support  a  pop,  of  1,934,340)  hoatsof 
Mongols  and  Koreans,  JapauBBB  ana  Chinese  have  fought  anii 
died.  The  region  is  rich  in  minerals;  the  Japanese  Navy  makes 
its  briquettes  from  the  anthracite  product  of  the  extensive 
Pinff  Yang  Ci/al  Miiita  {veins  32  M.  long  by  7i  M.  wide) 
owned  by  Gov't.  Many  ruins  of  early  Chinese  occupation  are 
to  be  found,  and  fortified  castles,  quaint  old  gates  and  walk 
dot  the  hiils.  Heyd,  the  capital,  is  mentioned  at  p.  754. 

Hoano-Hai  (Yellow  Sea,  or  Uwang-hai,  or  Kdkai),  with 
1,015,867  inhabs.,  borders  this  sea,  and  its  extreme  point  \a  the 
neatest  in  Korea  to  the  (SO  M.)  Shantung  Pr<mumtary  of 
Chiila.  It  was  long  the  camping-^und  for  the  hordes  uf 
Chinese  pirates  (from  Chefoo  amd  Teng  Chow)  who  formerly 
made  periodical  raids  in  the  peninsula.  On  their  arrival  it  wai 
customary  for  the  Korean  lookouts  to  light  great  signal-fires 
(pong-'Wa)  by  night  and  to  send  up  dense  colunms  of  smoke  by 
day  to  warn  the  inland  people  of  the  approach  of  the  bucca- 
neers; other  fires  were  soon  lit  on  other  tulle  until  a  lununona 
chain  of  them  flamed  lo  the  sky  clear  to  NamSan  at  Seod, 
and  the  King  was  apprised  of  the  on-coming  peril.  This  pio- 
turesque  arrangement  (one  now  superseded  by  the  telegraph 
of  the  '  foreign  devil ')  was.  until  quite  recently,  employed  ex- 
tensively, and  by  means  of  it  the  King  received  intelligenee 
from  the  uttermost  end  of  his  realm.  Hoang-hai  was  also  the 
objective  point  of  the  early  niisaionaries  who  tried  to  enter  tk 
forbidden  land  —  there  to  suffer  martyrdom  and  a  cruel  death. 
The  adjacent  sea  teems  with  fine  fish,  and  it  was  long  the 
chosen  fishing-ground  for  Chinese  from  the  munland.  The 
most  important  islands  off  the  coast  are  the  Hall  Growp,  au- 
called  (in  1S16)  by  Brwil  Hail  (captain  of  the  ship  Lwa)  in 
memory  of  his  father  Sir  Jamea  Hail,  sometime  pre^aent  of 


tons.  Modem  machinery  is  used.  There  are  two  smaller 
mines,  the  Atiak,  and  the  ffuni/ul, 

Kang-Won  (River  Moor),  or  KBgen,  with  833,000  inhala., 
ia  unique  among  the  provinces  in  that  its  (150  M.)  coast  is  un- 
sheltered by  ismnds,  and  is  without  harbors.  It  is  the  moat 
mountainouB  of  all  the  provinces.  The  Twelve  Thousand 
Peaks  of  the  Cfiamond'^Jy.,  Me'»ii.\3iao.\\aV»«4;«B,BH  ia  also  the 
„„» of  theme,  H»Jeg*.jg^*;^»^''g^ 


Provinces,  KOREA  U-  Route.    703 

it  in  1787).  From  the  high  rampart  of  bare  rock  which  sur- 
rounds it  a  central  peak  rises  4000  ft.  above  the  sea.  The  few 
Koreans  and  Japanese  who  dwell  in  this  lonely  spot  subeist  by 
fishing  for  the  whales  which  abound  in  the  waters  roundabout. 
The  coast  of  the  province  is  noted  among  Koreans  for  its 
Eight  Views  (P^al-kyong),  which  are  of  no  interest  to  foreigners. 

Kyong-Kwi  (Capital  Boundaries),  of  Keiki  (pop.  1,513,- 
966)  though  smallest  in  area,  is  one  of  the  richest  of  all  the 
Korean  possessions.  It  flanks  Kang-Won  on  the  W.,  the  Yel- 
low Sea  on  the  E.,  is  crossed  by  the  Han  River  (largest  of  the 
native  rivers  flanked  on  both  sides  by  Korean  territorv),  and 
beside  Seoul,  the  modem  capital,  it  contains  within  its  Dorders 
the  important  port  of  Chemrdpo,  and  the  one-time  prospelbu^ 
town  of  Kang-hoa. 

North  and  South  Chyung-Chyonq  (Pure  Loyalty),  or 
Chusei,  a  rich  and  fertile  province  (pop.  1,519,309)  sometimes 
referred  to  as  the  Granary  of  the  Kingdom,  is  celebrated  among 
Christians  as  the  'nursery  of  the  faith,'  for  its  soil  has  been  re- 
peatedly soaked  with  the  blood  of  native  believers.  Along  its 
coast  are  niunerous  bays  and  islands  marked  on  European 
charts  with  the  names  of  the  foreign  navigators  who  visited 
them  in  the  early  days.  Jerome  Bay  and  the  Prince  Imperial 
Archipelago  recall  the  ill-fated  wrecks  (in  1846)  of  the  ships 
Glory  and  Victory.  Fogs  are  frequent  off  the  coast,  and  these, 
with  the  many  shoals  and  strong  high  tides,  render  navigation 
extremely  hazardous.  The  Keum,  a  river  of  minor  importance, 
drains  both  provinces  and  empties  into  the  Yellow  Sea  near 
KuU'San, 

North  and  South  Chyolla  (Complete  Network),  or 
Zenra,  the  most  fertile  and  warmest  of  the  provinces  (pop. 
2,632,849),  occupy  the  site  of  the  ancient  Kingdom  of  Pakch^; 
are  the  nearest  to  Shanghai,  and  produce  cattle  for  the  meat- 
eating  Koreans,  and  cotton  for  the  Japanese  mills.  The  island- 
dotted  shores  have  been  the  scene  of  many  shipwrecks. 

North  and  South  Kyong-Syang  (Joyful  Honor)  oiKeisho, 
occupy  the  site  of  the  sometime  kingdoms  of  SiUaj  Kaya,  ana 
Karak,  in  the  southeastemmost  region  of  the  peninsiua,  and 
are  at  once  the  richest  and  most  populous  (3,174,985  inhabs.)  of 
the  provinces.  The  plains  and  valleys  are  watered  and  drained 
by  the  Nak-tong,  and  the  equable  climate  is  free  from  the 
rigors  of  the  northern  winters.  From  time  immemorial  the  in- 
vading Japanese  have  landed  their  troops  here,  and  here  the 
earliest  Korean  civilization  and  art  reached  their  highest  de- 
velopment before  being  expatriated  to  the  island  of  KyUahu, 
Fusan,  one  of  the  most  important  of  the  ports,  is  mentioned 
at  p.  694.  The  Japanese  are  developing  the  region,  and  Chinar 
haif  on  the  bay  of  the  same  name,  is  perhaps  destined  to  be' a 
great  naval  port. 


704    Rauie  U-  KOREA  The  River  System, 

The  KoBEAN  HioHWATS  are  no<j  yet  suitable  for  automo- 
bUes.  What  the  natives  grandiloquently  term  *  Great  Roads' 
are  oftentimes  infamous  foot-paths  with  scarcely  room  for  two 
laden  buUs  to  pass  each  other.  Many  of  the  bridges  (usually 
sod-covered)  are  so  rotten  that  even  the  native  horses  refuse  to 
cross  them  until  the  mapu  (driver)  crosses  them  first  and  tests 
them.  The  Japanese  Grov't  is  rapidly  extending  the  peninsular 
highways,  widening  and  strengthening  them  as  they  go.  At 
present  the  difficulties  of  automobile  travel  in  Korea  would 
be  too  great  to  be  lightly  undertaken. 

The  River  System  is  extensive,  and  the  country  is  well 
watered,  but  with  few  exceptions  the  streams,  because  of  their 
sluJlowness,  are  practically  valueless  for  navigation^  The 
largest  of  the  rivers,  the  Yaluj  called  by  the  Koreans  Am  Noky 
or  Green  Duck  (from  its  bluish-green  color  after  the  melting 
of  the  snow  and  ice  near  its  mt.  source),  forms  a  part  of  the  N. 
boundary  and  separates  Korea  from  Manchuria.  It  is  naviga- 
ble for  60  M.  from  its  triple  mouth  (at  the  Yellow  Sea),  and  is 
much  used  for  raftbig  down  (to  Antung)  the  logs  cut  niear  its 
upper  reaches.  The  cold  Tumenf  which  rises  in  the  Ever- 
White  Mts.  and  separates  N.E.  Korea  from  Ajsiatic  Russia, 
though  about  200  M.  long  is  of  little  benefit  to  Koreans.  It  is 
frozen  over  during  several  months  of  the  intense  Siberian 
winter,  and  in  the  spring,  when  the  snows  melt,  it  becomes  a 
ragpg  torrent  difficult  to  navigate.  The  Tai-dong  (Daidd)^ 
wWch  drains  SoiUh  Phyong-An  and  is  often  called  tJie  Ping 
Yang  (after  it  passes  the  old  capital  of  that  name),  empties 
into  the  Yellow  Sea  near  Chinnampo  and  is  one  of  the  impor- 
tant rivers  of  the  peninsula.  At  Ping  Yang  it  is  about  1200  ft. 
wide,  and  during  the  season  its  surface  is  often  quite  covered 
with  the  timber-rafts  that  come  down  from  the  mts.  to  the  sea. 
The  upper  reaches  are  noted  for  fine  scenery.  The  stately 
ffaw,  the  finest  of  the  Korean  rivers,  referred  to  by  mariners 
as  the  Seoul  River  and  by  others  as  the  River  of  Golden  Sand 
(because  of  the  auriferous  deposits  in  its  bed),  rises  in  the  Dia- 
mond Mt.,  serves  as  the  great  fluvial  artery  between  that  re- 
gion and  Seoul  (where  it  is  900  ft.  wide),  thence  flows  45  M.  to 
the  Yellow  Sea.  It  is  navigable  for  small  flat-bottomed  craft 
for  nearly  170  M.  from  its  mouth,  and  up  and  down  its  sinuous 
course,  through  gorges  that  remind  one  of  those  of  the  Yangtze- 
kiangy  go  many  picturesque,  mediaeval  junks.  There  are  50  or 
more  rapids  along  its  upper  reaches,  and  some  of  them  glis- 
sade down  amid  the  most  beautiful  and  inspiring  scenery  in 
the  country.  It  is  the  favorite  river  with  foreigners  for  house- 
boating,  and  a  journey  to  its  mt.  source  leads  one  through  the 
very  heart  of  Korea,  where  many  of  the  old  beliefs  and  cus- 
toms prevail.  Trips  can  always  be  planned  with  the  assist- 
ance of  the  hotel  mana^eT  a\.^\A.  The  high  tides  of  the  Yel- 
low  Sea  affect  the  river  5fe  ^.  Irom  \\»  xassvi^.  TWrty  zniles 


Climate.  KOREA  U-  Route,    705 

below  the  capital  it  divides,  the  main  stream  flowing  W.,  and  a 
branch,  the  SaUe,  turning  S.  At  the  mouth  stands  Kanghoa 
Island  (Tlower  of  the  River ');  long  regarded  as  one  of  the 
invincible  fortified  outposts  of  the  capital,  and  oftentimes  the 
retreat  of  kings  forced  out  by  foreign  invasion  or  domestic  up- 
risings. DupUcates  of  the  national  archives  were  formerly 
preserved  here,  and  the  library  was  anciently  rich  in  Chinese 
MSS.  The  fortress  was  bombarded  and  destroyed  so  many 
times  after  the  foreigners  forced  their  way  into  the  country, 
that  its  one-time  prestige  has  vanished. — The  Nak-4ongj  the 
most  prominent  of  the  southern  rivers,  drains  the  greater  part 
of  North  Kyong-Syang  before  emptying  into  the  Korea  Channel 
near  Ftisan,  The  Keum  River  rises  in  Chyung-Chyong  and 
merges  its  shallow  waters  with  those  of  the  Yellow  Sea  near 
Kun-aan, 

Climate.  The  physical  configuration  of  Korea  gives  it  a 
climate  of  almost  unsiupassed  excellence.  The  winter  quality 
is  superb;  the  summer  is  supportable.  It  is  without  asperity, 
and  there  are  no  extremes  of  heat  or  cold  to  ^uard  against. 
Foreigners  are  not  affected  .by  climatic  maladies,  and  Euro- 
pean children  thrive.  Because  of  the  length  of  the  peninsula, 
the  winter  at  the  N.  is  considerably  colder  than  at  the  S.  At 
Shingishu  it  opens  earlier,  and  the  spring  30  days  later,  than 
at  FiLsan.  Persons  accustomed  to  life  in  the  Temperate  Zone 
find  the  Korean  climate  exhilarating;  particularly  the  cold, 
dry,  bracing  winter.  It  is  much  superior  and  more  agreeable 
than  that  of  Japan.  The  summer  heat,  though  strong,  is  tem- 
pered by  sea-breezes,  and  is  without  the  disintegrating  quality 
of  the  heat  in  Japan  or  the  savage  torridity  of  that  of  Hong- 
kong. Januarv  is  the  coldest  month,  the  mean  temperature 
being  16**  at  the  N.  and  35**  at  the  S.  The  northland  is  some- 
times covered  with  deep  snows  from  Sept.  to  March,  but  with 
bright,  beautiful  clear  dajns,  and  still,  frosty,  moonlit  nights 
that  suggest  packs  of  running  wolves,  and  '  frosty  but  kindly ' 
tonic  effects.  The  gold^i  qimlity  of  the  simshine  is  so  appar- 
ent, and  the  early  mornings  are  of  such  rare  beautv,  that  the 
name  of  the  countnr,  'Land  of  the  Morning  Calm,'  is  derived 
from  them.  The  iciu  and  the  Tumen  Rivers  are  frozen  over 
for  3-4  months,  and  the  Han  for  2-3.  The  ice  is  usually  thick 
enough  to  permit  the  passage  of  any  army  with  impedimenta. 
For  9  months  of  each  year  one  can  customarily  count  upon 
bright  blue,  unclouded  ddes  from  the  Yalu  to  the  Korea 
Channel.  The  winter  at  the  S.  is  bright  and  mild,  with  a  crisp 
tang  like  that  of  the  climate  of  the  Mexican  tableland. 

The  hottest  month  is  Aug^with  a  mean  temperature  of  72"  at 
the  N.  and  77**  at  the  S.  Tiie  mean  summer  temperature  at 
Seoul  is  about  75**  F.  and,  that  of  winter  about  33**.  The  mean 
of  the  E.  coaat  is  from  2**  to  4"  higher  than  that  of  the  W «  <!jc^^ 
in  the  same  latitude,  during  Feb.  and  Maxell*,  \\i<eiT%N^t«fe\^\s^L 


706    Rmde  44-  KOBEA  Healih, 

the  case  during  April-July.  From  Oct.  to  March  northeriy 
winds  prevail;  in  April  and  Sept.  they  are  variable,  and  from 
May  to  Aug.  they  are  usually  southerly.  The  rains  are  well 
distributed  during  the  year;  the  average  rainfall  is  36  in.  a 
year,  and  during  the  summer  rainy  season  22  in.  Irrigation  is 
necessary  only  for  the  rice  crop.  —  The  Rainy  Season  occurs 
in  July-Aug.  on  the  N.E.  and  W.  coasts,  and  April-July  on 
the  S.  coast;  the  annual  rainfall  in  those  locaUties  being  about 
35,  42,  and  30  in.  respectively.  It  is  dry  on  the  W.  coast  from 
Sept.  to  Jan.,  on  the  S.  in  Feb.  (where  the  rainfall  is  more 
evenly  distributed  throughout  the  year  than  elsewhere)  a^ 
on  the  N.E.  coast  from  April  to  Aug.  Europeans  fuid  the 
fiercely  hot  summer  (mid-July  to  mid-Sept.)  trying  but  not 
unhealthy.  Fogs  frequently  occur  on  the  N.E.  coast  in  sunmaer, 

d  occasionally  at  the  beginning  and  end  of  winter;  on  the  W. 

ast  from  March  to  July,  and  on  the  S.  from  April  to  August. 

Health.  Korean  ideas  of  hygiene  are  almost  as  negligible  as 
those  of  a  Hottentot.  Travelers  should  always  be  on  their 
guard  against  sampling  native  dishes  and  beverages,  and  on 
no  account  shoula  water  or  milk  be  drunk  unless  recently 
boiled.  The  average  Korean  well  is  little  short  of  a  pest-hole, 
and  is  often  the  cause  of  epidemics.  While  the  progressive 
Japanese  have  installed  modem  waterworks  in  certain  of  the 
lai^e  cities,  it  is  difficult  to  prevent  an  ignorant  populace  from 
defiling  the  sources.  Boiled  milk  is  always  to  be  had  in  the 
foreign  hotels,  and  the  excellent  Takaradzuka  Tansan  Mineral 
Water  (p.  629)  is  imported  from  Japan.  For  the  traveler  who 
takes  ordinary  precautions  Korea  is  healthier  than  most  coun- 
tries in  the  East. 

Money.  The  old  Korean  system  was  so  cumbersome  that 
when  the  invading  Japanese  army  once  bought  10,000  yen 
worth  of  timber  in  the  interior,  and  was  obhged  to  pay  in 
copper  cash,  it  was  found  necessary  to  charter  a  small  steamer 
and  fill  it  with  the  old  coins.  These,  along  with  the  debased 
nickles,  the  silver  20  ckon  (sen)  pieces  and  the  dollars  (won) 
are  being  withdrawn  and  replaced  by  new  coins  and  bank- 
notes of  equal  value  with  those  of  Japan.  The  new  metallic 
money  is  sunilar  in  quality  and  appearance  to  that  of  Japan 
except  that  the  Korean  national  emblems  (a  white  cock  like 
the  mythological  phcenix,  and  a  5-petal  plum  blossom  replac- 
ing the  16-petal  chrysanthemum)  appear  upon  them  in  jux- 
taposition to  various  Japanese  symbols.  The  so-called  gold 
standard  is  represented  by  5,  10,  and  20  yen  pieces  (rarely 
seen) ;  subsidiary  copper  coins  of  J  and  1  sen  (or  chon):  nickels 
(5  ckon) ;  10  ana  20  sen  (chon)  silver  pieces;  and  a  half  yen  (50 
sen)  called  half  won,  Japanese  money  passes  interchangeably 
wim  the  Korean,  but  upon  leavins  the  country  the  traveler 
fijbould  change  his  mcme^  Vi  v»o\a  *\\a  Vi^m^  discounted  Qn 


Hunting  and  Fishing.        KOREA  44.  Route.    707 

Japan  or  elsewhere).  This  also  applies  to  the  different  bank- 
notes issued  by  the  (governmental)  Bank  of  Chosen. 

Hunting  and  Fishing.  The  extensive  fauna  includes  splendid 
striped  tigers  (Ben^l  variety)  whose  magnificent  pelts  (be- 
cause of  the  cold  winters)  have  much  longer  and  thicker  fur 
than  their  southern  brothers.  The  great  size  and  beautiful 
markings  of  the  skins  make  them  hi^y  prized  by  foreigners, 
who  often  come  from  a  distance  to  seek  them.  The  chief  range 
is  in  the  N.,  among  the  forest-clad  mts.  of  Ham-Oyong,  but  the 
animals  harass  the  villages  throughout  the  peninsula,  and  dur- 
ing the  year  kill  numbers  of  Koreans.  Not  long  ago  they  came 
up  to,  and  over,  the  walb  of  Seonly  and  in  some  districts  they 
are  still  such  a  pest  that  they  are  exterminated  when  possible. 
The  dread  of  the  beast  is  so  widespread  that  when  the  natives 
are  obliged  to  travel  at  night,  they  often  associate  themselves 
in  bands  and  yell,  beat  gongs,  and  swing  lanterns  and  torches. 
Tiger-hunters  fona  a  class  by  themselves,  and  customarily 
seek  the  animal  in  the  winter,  when  the  snow  Ues  deep  and  it 
can  be  tracked  easily.  In  the  smnmer,  when  the  people  are 
busy  with  other  things  and  the  underbrush  affords  shelter, 
'stripes*  remembers  the  compliment  of  the  preceding  season 
and  returns  it  with  great  diligence  and  singleness  of  purpose. 
The  hunters  are  usually  so  inept  that  good  tiger-skins  are 
harder  for  the  tourist  to  get  than  Korean  skins  are  for  the 
tiger.  The  latter  is  sometimes  trapped  and  poisoned  by  bait- 
ing a  pit  with  a  dog  or  a  pig.  The  Chinese  pay  high  prices  for 
the  tiger's  bones,  as  they  consider  them  a  specific  for  strength 
and  courage!  A  winged  tiger  anciently  formed  one  of  the  sym- 
bols on  the  Korean  flag,  and  typified  power  and  fierceness. 
The  animal  occupies  as  prominent  a  place  in  the  history,  lan- 
guage, and  minds  of  the  people  as  the  peasants  do  in  the  in- 
ternal economy  of  the  tiger. 

Tiger-cats,  sleek  and  handsomely  spotted  leopards,  big  black 
Korean  bears,  several  species  of  deer,  wild  boars,  foxes,  beav- 
ers, otters,  sables,  badgers,  squirrels,  and  other  minor  game 
are  common  features  of  this  hunters'  paradise.  The  horns,  in 
the  velvet,  of  the  large  Manchurian  deer  {Cervits  manchuri- 
cus)  are  much  valued  by  the  Chinese,  who  use  them  for  medi- 
cine. Prominent  among  the  feathered  game  are  several  varie- 
ties of  silver  and  copper  pheasants  (very  common),  geese, 
swans,  teal,  mallard  and  mandarin  ducks,  turkey-buzsards, 
eagles,  herons,  imperial  cranes,  storks,  harriers,  peroerines 
(employed  by  the  Koreans  as  hunting-falcons),  white  ana  pink 
ibises,  hawks,  kestrels,  pigeons,  doves,  snipes,  and  so  on.  Among 
the  numerous  birds  are  cuckoos,  halcyon  and  bright  blue 
kingfishers,  clanking  blue  jays,  wood-larks,  thrushes,  redstarts, 
wa^ails,  orioles,  nulrhatches,  rooks,  many  warblers,  and  thus 
omnipresent  Korean  crow,  a  species  of  magpie  {Kcua-aagi). 
One  sees  these  almost  everywhere  in  the  yqwrxwwW^  VSiiss^  «e% 


708    Route  U-  KOBEA  Mtties. 

easily  distinguished  by  their  black  head,  black-and-white 
breast,  and  long,  nervous  tail;  the  tips  of  the  outstretched 
wings  are  white,  and  in  certain  lights  tiie  back  shows  a  green- 
ish ^een.  They  are  .the  size  of  a  small  crow,  bright-eyed,  saucy 
and  noisy,  and  the  markings  are  very  pretty  when  the  bird 
is  on  the  wing.  Game  is  not  persecuted  as  in  certain  other 
countries,  as  for  some  of  the  birds  there  is  a  close  season  (May 
to  Sept.)  and  a  special  Ucense  (obtainable  from  the  authorities 
for  ¥7  for  the  season)  is  required  to  hunt  them.  Big-game 
hunters  should  always  plan  tneir  excursions  with  the  Knowl- 
edge and  advice  of  the  authorities.  The  hotel  manager  can 
always  be  of  assistance  in  the  matter  of  guides,  etc. 

The  seas  which  wash  the  Korean  shores  abound  in  fine  fish. 
Upward  of  500  whales  are  captured  each  year  off  the  E.  coast, 
where  they  feed  on  the  immense  shoals  of  sardines  and  her- 
rings. Owing  to  the  unseaworthiness  of  the  picturesque  Kor- 
ean jimks,  most  of  the  fishing  is  done  by  Japanese. 

Mines  and  Mining.  Gold,  silver,  copper,  iron,  coal,  mica, 
graphite,  and  minor- minerals  are  found  in  aunost  all  the  prov- 
inces, and  alluvial  gold  exists  in  many  places.  About  500  min- 
ing concessions  are  granted  by  the  Cxov't  each  year;  the  tax  is 
1  %  of  the  gross  output,  and  50  sen  for  each  1000  tsvho  of  land. 
The  new  mining  law  of  1906  opened  the  coimtry  to  foreigners. 
Among  the  best  known  of  the  gold  properties  are  the  six  mines 
of  the  Wun-san  group,  in  Norffi^Phyong-Auy  worked  (by  Amer- 
icans) wider  a  concession  granted  to  the  OnentoZCcmso^ic/o^ 
Mining  Co.  in  1896.  The  veins  run  chiefly  from  N.  to  S.  and 
are  worked  at  deep  levels  by  75  Americans,  600  Chinese,  60 
Japanese,  and  2300  Koreans  (who  make  excellent  miners). 
The  annual  yield  is  about  £250,000.  The  gold  placers  of  the 
Chiksan  Mining  Co.  (American)  are  about  50  M.  S.  of  Seoul, 
in  South  Chyung-Chyong.  The  Sv/in  Mine  (English)  i^  in 
Hwang-Hai.  Several  hundred  mines  are  being  developed  by 
foreigners  of  various  nationalities,  and  others  bv  Japanese. 
The  country  is  believed  to  be  as  highly  mineralized  as  Mexico. 

Historical  Sketch.  When  Korea,  or  Chosen  (Ch'ao  Hsien — 
*  Morning  Calm '  or  *  Fresh  Morning  0,  became  known  to  the 
Chinese  (who  called  it  Tung-kwo,  or  '  Eastern  Kingdom  *)  dur- 
ing the  reign  of  Wuti,  of  the  Han  Dynasty  (b.c.  206  to  a.d. 
221),  it  was  peopled  by  numerous  groups  of  semi-savage  tribes 
(perhaps  nomadic  Turanians)  of  different  stock,  langua^, 
and  institutions,  who  are  supposed  to  have  entered  the  penin- 
sula overland  from  that  great  hive  of  nations,  Manchuria,  at 
the  north.  The  flimsy  legends  and  tribal  beliefs  of  these  rude 
and  unlettered  peoples,  though  supposed  to  reach  back  to 
B.C.  2300,  throw  but  little  true  light  on  their  origin  or  pro- 
venience. After  the  lapse  of  an  unrecorded  period,  history 
finds  their  descendantiB  cemented  into  a  number  of  fairlv 
ationg  kingdoms  ruled  ovcc  \s^  ^«a  wni  kings  and  afi 


History,  KOBEA  U-  BoM'    709 

apparently  animated  by  the  wish  to  suppress  or  absorb  their 
w^er  neighbors*  For  the  first  600  yrs.  of  the  Christian  era 
the  histoiy  of  the  peninsula  is  practically  ^hat  of  three  king- 
doms, and  for  400  yrs.  thereafter  that  of  Silla  (Jap.  Shiragi), 
which  rose  to  such  prominence  that  before  its  decay  and  down- 
fall in  A.D.  935  its  sovereign  unified  the  country  and  ruled  it 
under  one  crown.  The  word  Korea  is  derived  from  Korai,  the 
name  of  the  most  northern  of  the  three  old  kingdoms  which 
originally  shared  the  peninsula  between  them.  *  Each  king- 
dom had  a  long  line  of  kings  of  varying  characters  and  for- 
tunes, who  worked  weal  or  woe  to  then*  coimtries,  some  of 
whom  fell  beneath  assassins'  knives,  while  others,  deposed  or  de- 
feated, died  by  their  own  hands;  some  leaving  behind  them  the 
memories  of  strong  and  efficient  government,  which  brought 
nothing  but  good  to  their  subjects;  others  those  of  merciless 
tyrants,  sunk  in  debauchery  and  cruelty,  whose  memories  are 
aJdn  to  those  of  Nero  and  Caligula.  Each  had  its  episodes  of 
national  triumph  and  reverse,  its  incidents  of  heroic  fortitude 
and  craven  submission,  amiost  which  all  steadily  progressed 
on  the  paths  of  learning,  art,  and  industry;  each  received  its 
teachers  and  missionaries  from  China;  each  preserved  throu^- 
out  its  history  the  characteristics  that  had  marked  its  origm. 
Each  contributed  in  its  turn  to  the  stream  of  emigrants  that 
poured  from  the  peninsula  into  Japan,  bringing  with  them  all 
that  they  themselves  had  learned  from  China,  and  assisting  in 
laying  the  foundations  of  the  systems  of  religion,  statecraft  and 
literature,  science  and  social  life  which  formed  the  civilization 
of  Japan  for  more  than  12^  years,  and  was  only  replaced  in 
the  latter  half  of  the  19th  cent,  by  the  higher  civilization  of 
Europe.'   (Longford.) 

Conspicuous  among  these  petty  states  was  Pakchi  (Jap. 
Kvdara)  which  rose  in  B.C.  17  and  lasted  until  a.d.  660.  It 
is  of  interest,  for  it  is  believed  that  from  it  the  islanders  got 
the  first  tincture  of  continental  civilization.  Japanese  records 
refer  to  various  embassies  that  passed  between  Japan  and  the 
peninsular  kingdoms,  particularly  one  in  a.d.  2S4  when  two 
horses  (said  to  be  the  first  to  enter  Japan)  were  sent  from 
the  mainland.  In  time  this  kingdom  —  which  stretched  along 
the  shores  of  the  Yellow  Sea  from  the  neighborhood  of  the  pre- 
sent Korean  capital  to  the  S.  W.  extremity  of  the  peninsula  — 
served  as  the  bridge  over  which  much  of  the  Chinese  culture 
of  the  times  passed  to  Japan.  Thither  went  Buddhism  along 
with  its  avirasy  idob,  temple  fitments,  and  artisans  to  erect  the 
first  temples  in  Japan  in  a.d.  552,  and  later  the  first  specimens 
of  ceramic  art  (said  to  have  come  to  Korea  from  Persia),  with 
skilled  potters,  who  settled  in  Kyushu  and  there  established 
primitive  potteries,  destined  later  to  send  their  wonderful  pror 
ducts  far  ^e\d  ana  to  make  Satsuma  ware  celebrated  through 
out  the  world.  Thither  also  went  (about  a.d.  17^^  iki^iig^u^ 


710    Route  44'  EOBEA  History: 

scourge  smallpox,  which  i^oon  spread  all  over  the  Island  £m- 
l»re  and  gained  therein  such  a  foothold  that  it  has  never  been 
entirely  dislodged.  Prior  to  this,  in  a.d.  405,  a  celebrated 
teacher  of  writing  named  Wani  went  from  Pakchi  to  Japan 
and  introduced  in  that  ooimtry  a  S3rstem  of  writing  and  of  pre- 
serving written  records,  thus  laying  the  foundation  of  Japai> 
ese  written  language  and  history.  He  was  but  the  forerunner 
of  a  long  list  of  skilled  emigrants  who  went  to  Japan  during 
the  succeeding  centuries,  and  by  their  industrial,  Uterary,  ana 
technical  attainments  founded  most  of  the  fine  arts  for  which 
that  empire  is  famous  to-day.  It  was  not  until  the  7th  cent, 
that  Japanese  students  began  finding  their  way  direct  to  the 
seats  of  learning  in  China,  and  thus  getting  their  information 
at  first  hand.  They  adopted  printing  from  Korea  in  the  12th 
cent.,  at  which  time  a  work  of  the  Buddhist  canon  was  printed 
from  wooden  blocks.  'A  Korean  book  is  known  which  dates 
authentically  from  the  period  between  1317  and  1324,  over  a 
century  before  the  earliest  printed  book  known  in  Europe.'  — 
In  time  the^ldngdom  of  SiUa  was  swallowed  up  in  the  new  king- 
dom of  Koryu,  which,  originating  in  the  N.  in  a.d.  918,  soon 
acquired  such  power  that  it  extended  its  sway  over  tiie  whole 
peninsula,  and  far  beyond  the  Yalu,  in  Manchuria.  Witii  the 
rise  of  the  ^eat  Kvblai  Khan  in  1265,  Koryu  (or  Kdrcdy  or 
Korea  —  Chinese:  Kaoli)  was  forced  to  acknowledge  Mongol 
suzerainty,  and  tJie  people  of  the  peninsula  were  obli^d  to  aid 
Kvblai  in  his  abortive  descents  against  the  Japanese  coast. 
Koryu  came  to  a  political  end  in  1392  when  the  ancestor  (Fi 
Taijo)  of  the  line  of  sovereigns  who  ruled  the  coimtry  down  to 
1910  ascended  the  throne  and  established  what  was  thence- 
forth known  as  Chosen.  History  records  that  Tai  Jong  (1418- 
50),  the  yoimger  son  of  Taijo,  first  conceived  and  carried  out 
the  idea  of  movable  copper  types.^ 

The  Arabs,  who  were  among  the  earliest  races  to  trade  with 
the  Koreans,  knew  of  the  country  in  the  9th  cent. ;  reference  is 
made  to  it  by  an  Arab  geographer,  Khordadbeh,  in  his  Book  of 

»  According  to  Mr.  S.  Wells  Williams  (Middle  Kingdom,  vol.  1,  p.  603): 
'The  honor  of  being  the  first  inventor  of  movable  types  undoubtedly  belongs 
to  a  Chinese  blacksmith  named  Pi  Shing,  who  lived  about  a.d.  1000,  and 
printed  books  with  them  nearly  500  yrs.  before  QtUenberg  cut  his  matrices 
at  Mains.  They  were  made  of  plastic  clay,  hardened  by  fire  after  the  charac- 
ters had  been  cut  on  the  soft  surface  of  a  plate  of  clay  in  which  they  were 
moulded.  The  porcelain  types  were  then  set  up  in  a  frame  of  iron  parti- 
tioned off  by  strips,  and  inserted  in  a  cement  of  wax,  resin,  and  lime  to  utsten 
them  down.  The  printing  was  done  by  rubbing,  and  when  completed  the 
types  were  loosened  by  melting  the  oement,  and  made  clean  for  another  im- 
pression. This  invention  seems  nev^  to  have  been  developed  to  any  practi- 
cal application  in  superseding  block  printing  (adopted  from  the  discovery  of 
Fungtau,  in  the  10th  cent.).  The  Emperor  Kanghi  ordered  (about  1722) 
approximately  250  thousand  copper  types  to  be  engraved  for  printing  publi- 
■oations  of  the  Government,  and  these  works  are  now  highly  prised  for  tbor 
beauty.  The  cupidity  of  his  successors  led  to  melting  these  tsrpes  into  cash, 
hut  hia  grandson  Ktenlung  directed  the  casting  of  a  large  font  of  lead  types 
/or  ^ovemm^nt  use.* 


Hiitonf.  KOREA  U-  Route.    711 

Roads  and  Proviruxt.  Marco  Polo,  carried  the  Dews  of  it  to 
Europe,  and  later  did  also  the  Portuguese  and  Franciscan 
friars.  It  soon  becEune  known  to  Europeans  as  '  lie  Hermit 
'       '  from  the  <»rcumstaiice  that  for  centuriea  Korea 


Buc^safuily  carried  out  the  policy  of  isolation.  Father  Ore- 
Qorio  de  Cespedea,  a  zealous  Jesuit  toiasionBry,  was  the  first 
recorded  foreigner  to  enter  the  forbidden  land,  but  he  waa 
deported  soon  after  he  had  landed  at  Fiisan  in  1594.  It  waa 
nearly  200  yra.  later  before  another  missionary  entered  the 
kingdom,  as  during  that  long  interval  the  Koreans  made  stren- 
uous efforts  to  hermetically  seal  the  country,  la^g  waste  the  . 
seocoaat  and  inhospitable  land  zones,  and  killmg  or  turning 
back  all  aspirants  for  admission.  The  unfortunate  Dutch 
sailors  of  tiie  Spanoehr  (Sparrowhawk)  who  were  wrecked 
oS  Quelpart  in  1653  were  eniilaved  and  were  detuned  as  cap- 
tives for  27  yrs.  —  the  fate  of  a  number  of  them  being  un- 
known. Durmg  its  long  isolation  the  peninsula  was  a  constant 
bone  of  contention  between  the  Chinese  oq  one  side  and  the 
Japanese  on  the  other.  The  latter  laid  claim  to  the  country  in 
the  2d  cent.  A.n.,  and  made  frequent  efforts  to  possess  it.  In 
lieu  of  posecssion  they  exacted  yearly  tribute,  and  it  was  not 
until  Feb.  27,  1876,  that  the  Mikado's  Minister  Plenipoten- 
tiary si^ed  a  treaty  which  recognized  Chosen  as  an  independ- 
ent nation.  For  upward  of  50  yra.  prior  to  this  it  had  been 
the  crux  of  the  international  poucy  of  the  Far  Kast,  while  for 
centuries  it  had  been  the  theater  of  prolonged  internecine  wars, 
and  Japanese,  J^anchu,  and  Mongol  ruds.  Dreadful  perse- 
cutions of  Christians,  and'misrule  and  cruelty  that  shock  the 
sensibilities,  are  among  the  most  salient  episodes  in  the  his- 
tory of  this  tiackward  nation.  In  1592,  Konwhi  Yvkituma  and 
Koto  Kiyomaaa,  Uideyoahi's  most  popular  generals,  invaded 
the  kingdom  at  Fusan,  and  with  more  than  300,000  troops 
(50,000  of  whom  were  lolled)  waged  a  tremendous  war  against 
the  Koreans  and  tlieir  Chini^e  allies ;  nor  did  this  oversea  cam- 
paign {one  of  the  greatest  in  the  history  of  any  country)  cease 
until  Hideyoshi'a  death  in  1508. 


ThuDderboll  '  This  w, 


ladc  of  bell  meUl.  snd  buinae  a  bore  ol  12-14 

[  in,  HistotT-  rccn 

Duld  burl  itself  thrmiiili  the  air  for  40  ptkcn. 

When  tho  ■Fiyi 

nd  wtaD  the  Jw 

thalerrityineno 

joreorTnoremeniMtantly.  'Thalen^ofth 

712    Route  U'  KOREA  HiOonf. 

final  great  battle  of  the  Campaign  fit  Soohon  (near  Puaan),  neaiiy  39,000 
Korean  and  Chinese  heads  were  gathered  up  from  the  field,  the  ears  and 
noses  were  cut  off  and  pickled  in  fime  and  water  and  forwarded  to  Hid&- 
yoshi,  —  later  to  be  buried  in  the  famous  Ear  Mound  {Mimi-euka;  p.  430)  at 
KyUto.  One  authority  says  that  214,762  human  bodies  were  decapitated  to 
furnish  the  ghastly  material  for  this  ear-jmound,  and  he  further  ados:  'Thus 
ended  one  of  the  most  needless,  unprovoked,  cruel,  and  desolating  wars  that 
ever  cursed  Korea,  ahd  from  which  it  has  taken  her  over  two  centuries  to 
recover.'  So  far-reaohin^was  the  suffering  this  stupendous  campaign  entailed 
that  thenceforth  the  Japanese  were  customarily  referred  to  by  the  Korean 
commonalty  as  'the  accursed  nation/ 

In  1797,  Captain  BroughUm,  in  his  voyage  of  discovery  in 
H.M.S.  Providence f  cruised  along  the  E.  coast  of  Korea  and 
gave  his  name  to  the  great  bay  in  the  S.  of  Ham-Gyong  Fto- 
vince.  He-  was  soon  followed  by  others,  and  Korean  cruelty 
toward  those  who  attempted  to  enter  the  country,  and  official 
arrogance  toward  the  foreign  gov't  that  essayed  to  protect  its 
nationals,  involved  the  authorities  in  frequent  disastrous  scrim* 
mages.  A  fleet  of  7  French  ships  conunanded  by  BeUonet  an- 
chored off  the  mouth  of  the  Han  River  in  1866,  and  ihe  city 
of  Rang  hoa,  on  Kanf^g  hoa  Island^  the  military  headquarters  oif 
W.  Korea^  was  bombarded  and  destroyed.  When  the  crew  of 
the  Amencan  schooner  General  Sherman  were  murdered  b^ 
Koreans  at  Pin^-An,  in  1S66,  the  United  States  sent  a  puni- 
tive expedition  (of  750  men)  imder  Rear-Admiral  John  Rod' 
gersy  and  after  a  rapid  shrapnel  demonstration  (sometimes  re- 
ferred to  as  *Our  little  war  with  the  Heathen'),  the  Koreans 
made  amends  and  the  ships  withdrew.  The  repeated  breaches 
made  by  England,  France,  Germany,  Japan,  ^d  the  United 
States,  soon  broke  down  the  wall  of  Choaenese  seclusion,  and 
after  the  signing  of  the  treaty  with  Japan,  the  first  Korean 
embassy  (which  since  the  12th  qent.  had  been  accredited  to 
the  Mikado's  Court)  left  for  Japan,  and  reached  Yokohama 
May  29,  1876.  Other  treaties  were  soon  signed  with  foreign 
powers  (that  of  the  United  States  in  1882),  the  most  important 
being  that  with  Great  Britain  (in  1884),  for,  as  is  customary 
with  that  greatest  of  all  colonizing  powers,  the  intelligent  and 
able  representatives  who  trod  in  the  footsteps  of  Sir  Harry 
Parkes  (prominent  among  them  Dr.  McLea/oy  Brown)  left  their 
indelible  impress  uppn  the  country  and  its  people.  The  first 
American  minister  to  the  Hermit  Kingdom  was  General  Lucius 
H,  Foote.  The  events  which  led  up  to  the  final  annexation  of 
Korea  (Aug.  22,  1910)  by  Japan  were  rapid  and  sanguinary; 
Russian  greed,  haughtiness,  and  duplicity  were  the  underlying 
and  accelerating  motives. 

The  world  knows  how  holy,  ijeace-loving  Russia  unmasked 
her  batteries  after  the  Japan-China  War  of  1895,  and,  aided  by 
other  powers,  compelled  Japan  to  give  up  all  claims  upon  the 
continent  and  to  be  content  with  an  indemnity  from  Chma  and 
the  cession  of  Fonoooa.  Also  how  all  administrative  reforms 
iastituted.  by  Japaiim"K!Ote&^«»  wiSiS£«dL«Qd  rendered  abor? 


Hi^arp.  KOREA  U.  Anife.    713 

live  by  Muscovite  intrigue.  To  remain  in  direst  ignorance,  but 
to  loin  the  Greek  Church,  recognize  the  supremacy  of,  and  pay 
tribute  to,  the  'little  Father,'^  and  later  to  aid  him  in  a  de- 
nationalizing campaign  against  Japan,  oomi»*ised  Russia's  aims 
toward  the  Koreans.  But  more  enlightened  and  progressive 
Japan  had  wider  and  more  humanitarian  ambitions  —  ambi- 
tions similar  to  those  of  the  United  States  in  the  PhiUppines, 
and  Great  Britain  in  India^  For  years  the  Mikado's  unswerv- 
ing policy  has  been  to  correct  Korean  maladministration,  and 
to  open  the  Hermit  Kingdom  to  the  world.  'Twice'  (says 
Mr.  Longford)  '  the  Japanese  attempted  to  secure  their  own 
position  in  Korean  vis-i-^vis  Russia,  first  by  the  convention  ne- 
gotiated at  St.  Petersburg  in  1896,  and  second  by  that  nego- 
tiated at  Tokyo  in  1898,  known  from  the  names  of  their  signa- 
tories, the  first  as  the  YarnctgaiorLobarioff,  and  the  second  as  the 
Niahi-Rosenj  convention.  All  were  in  vain.  Russia  pursued  her 
own  course  regardless  of  all  treaty  obligations,  obtained  and 
held  control  of  the  military  and  financial  systems  of  Korea, 
and,  while  she  had  agreed  to  respect  Korea's  territorial  in- 
tegrity and  not  to  obstruct  the  development  of  commercial 
and  industrial  relations  with  Japan,  she  was  rapidly  securing 
for  herself  concessions  which  placed  th^  most  valuable  re- 
sources of  Korea  at  her  disposaL  Her  Minister  at  Seoul  was 
always  in  the  confidence  of  the  King,  and,  backed  both  by 
gratitude  wjhich  the  King  owed  for  the  protection  given  to  him. 
in  his  time  of  peril  (after  the  murder  of  his  Queen)  and  by  the 
prestige  of  Russia,  was  practically  able  to  obtain  all  that  he 
asked.  It  seemed  only  a  question  of  time  when  Korea  should 
become  in  name,  as  she  already  appeared  to  be  in  fact,  a  Rus- 
sian province,  when  a  series  of  incidents  occurred  that  were 
as  insigi^ficant  in  their  origin  as  they  were  momentous  in  their 
results. 

'Among  the  many  concessions  granted  by  the  Korean  King 
when  a  refugee  In  the  Russian  Legation  (in  1896)  was  one  to 
a  Russian  subject  for  cutting  timber  in  the  valley  of  the  River 
Yalu,  on  the  N.W.  frontier.  It  was  a  valuable  one,  in  view 
of  the  building  of  the  Trans-Siberian  Railway,  the  immense 
number  of  sleepers  that  would  be  required,  and  the  rich  forests 
of  the  Yalu  VaUey,  which  could  furnish  the  material,  while 
the  river  itself  afforded  easy  and  cheap  fadlities  for  transport 
from  the  forests  to  the  borders  of  Manchuria.  Members  of  the 
Imperial  family  of  Russia  and  high  officiab  in  E.  Siberia  took 
large  pecuniary  interests  in  it,  so  that  the  concessiannaire  be- 
came assured  of  strong  political  and  official  support  whenever 
the  time  came  at  which  it  suited  him  to  make  use  of  it.  It  was 
never  made  pubUc,  and  nothing  was  heard  of  it  till  the  summer 
of  1903,  when  Chinese  laborers  from  Manchuria  began  to  fell 
timber  on  an  extensive  scale  un4er  Russian  direction;  and  iubfo 
laborers  were  soon  followed  by  eoldierB,  to  pio\AcX>  ^ckd^  V\^\sv 


714    Route  U'  KOREA  HUbny. 

the  mounted  Chinese  bandits  who  infested  Manchuria  immedi« 
ately  to  the  N.  of  the  Yalu.  The  sale  of  land  to  foreigners  out- 
side the  limits  of  the  recognized  settlements  was  forbidden  by 
Korean  law,  but  a  large  tract  was  purchased  by  the  Russian 
timber  coriceasionnaire  at  Yongamphoj  a  Korean  port  on  the 
Yalu,  about  16  M.  from  its  mouth,  from  the  Korean  owners. 
Substantial  dwelling,  sawmills,  and  other  buildings  were 
erected  on  it,  the  nver  frontage  was  embanked,  and  every 
intention  was  manifested  of  founding  a  large  settl^nent.  A 
little  farther  up  the  river,  on  the  Manchurian  side,  is  the  Chi- 
nese port  of  Antung,  Yongampho  is  said  to  be  one  of  the  ten 
best  harbors  in  Korea.  If  the  possession  of  Yongampho  was 
combined  with  that  of  Aniwngf  which,  like  the  r^  of  Man- 
churia, was  at  the  time  in  Russian  occupation,  the  river  Yalu 
could  be  closed  to  all  approach  from  the  sea,  and  the  Russians, 
with  open  contempt  for  both  Japanese  and  Korean  protests 
gave  every  indication  of  their  intentions.  A  fort  was  erected 
on  the  highest  part  of  the  acquired  land  in  Korea,  guns  were 
mounted,  and  a  garrison  established  in  it.  A  second  fort  was 
commenced  on  the  Manchurian  side,  on  a  cUfiF  commanding  the 
river,  a  few  miles  farther  up.  The  Korean  Gov't  was  awak- 
ened by  these  proceedings  to  the  danger  which  threatened 
their  N.  frontier  and  their  N.W.  province.  An  old  prophecy 
foretold  that  when  the  Tartar  was  in  the  N.  and  a  shrimp  in 
the  S.,  and  white  pines  grew  in  the  valley  of  the  Yalu,  the  end 
of  Korean  independence  would  be  near.  The  configuration 
of  Japan  is  supposed  to  resemble  a  shrimp,  and  Japanese  set- 
tlements were  now  all  over  the  S.  —  at  Fuaariy  Masampo,  and 
Seoul.  The  Russian  Tartar  was  establishing  himself  in  the  N. 
and  lining  the  valleys  of  the  Yalu  with  white  telegraph-posts 
made  of  pine,  and  all  combined  to  signify  the  realization  of  the 
prophecy.  Korea  was  still  under  the  thumb  of  Russia,  the 
King  Qater  the  Emperor),  both  in  gratitude  and  fear,  subser- 
vient in  all  things  to  the  masterful  Russian  Minister  at  Seoul; 
but  both  King  and  Gov't,  pressed  by  the  Japanese  Minister, 
who  was  supported  by  the  diplomatic  representatives  of  the 
other  powers  at  Seoul^  especiafly  by  those  of  England  and  the 
United  States,  plucked  up  courage  to  send  orders  to  the  load 
governor  of  WijUy  the  most  important  frontier  town  of  Korea, 
and  the  capital  of  the  prefecture,  to  stop  the  illegal  sale  of  real 
estate.  The  Grovemor  reported  that  the  Russian  methods  ren- 
dered him  powerless;  that  the  Russians  simplv  took  possession 
of  the  land  in  the  first  instance,  with  or  without  the  consent 
of  the  native  owners,  and  went  through  the  form  of  buying 
it  afterwards.  The  Russian  Minister  in  Seoul,  in  answer  to  the 
feeble  protests  of  the  Gov't,  declared  that  the  "valley  of  thj 
Yalu  "  included  not  only  the  line  of  the  rivor  itself  tim)ughou'. 
its  entire  length,  b\it  »1  \\a  ^.TibvitAries  and  all  the  adjoining 
districts,  ahd  that  a  coTioete\otL\o  cMXNAis^Q«t\sxs^\\fiAthe  priv^ 


History.  KOREA  U-  Route.    715^ 

ilege  of  exercising  every  operation  incidental  to  it,  in  no  matter 
how  remote  a  degree.  He  clamed,  therefore,  the  right  to  con- 
struct rlys.  or  roads,  erect  telegraphs,  acquire  land  for  building 
purposes,  and  to  take  whatever  mihtary  measures  appeared 
to  be  prudent  for  the  protection  of  the  Russian  settlers  en- 
gaged in  all  or  any  of  these  works.  He  claimed,  in  fact,  the 
f  uUest  military  control  and  very  extensive  proprietorial  rights 
over  the  entire  N.W.  frontier. 

*The  Japanese  Gov't  was  profoundly  moved  by  the  Russian 
proceeding  and  claim,  recognizing  that  if  both  were  permitted 
to  pass  without  resistance,  they  would  form  steppmg-stones 
for  further  extension  of  the  Russian  sphere  of  influence  that 
might  end  in  the  absorption  of  the  whole  peninsula.  She  had 
before  her  many  instances  of  Russian  methods  and  of  Rus- 
sia's cjnucal  disregard  of  the  most  solemn  treaty  obUgations 
when  it  suited  her  to  break  them.  Russia  had  already  in  her 
present  action  violated  in  their,  most  essential  items  both  of  the 
conventions  she  had  made  with  Japan  for  the  regulation  of 
their  mutual  interests  in  Korea.  She  had  stationed  troops  in 
Korean  dominions,  though  they  were  not  necessary  for  the 
protection  of  existing  settlements;  and  she  had  acquired  land 
in  places  not  open  to  the  residence  of  foreigners  in  defiance  of 
the  provisions  of  Korean  law;  in  both  respects  outraging  the 
sovereignty  oi  Korea  as  an  independent  kingdom,  which  she 
had  solemnly  bound  herself  to  recognize.  Japan  tried  in  vain 
to  rouse  the  Korean  Gov't  to  take  steps  which  would  throw 
some  moral  obstacles  in  the  way  of  Russia's  encroachment,  but 
neither  the  King  nor  his  Ministers  would  go  beyond  their  first 
feeble  protests,  and  they  blindly  and  fatuously  yielded  to 
the  dictates  of  the  Russian  Minister.  Japan  then  tried  to  safe- 
guard her  own  interests  by  offering  Russia  a  free  hand,  as  far 
as  she  was  concerned,  in  Manchuria,  provided  the  safety  and 
independence  of  Korea  were  adequately  guaranteed;  and  she 
exhausted  every  step  that  was  possible  in  patient  diplomacy  in 
her  endeavor  to  procure  Russia's  assent  to  the  guarantees 
which  she  considered  essential.  Russia  treated  her  well-meant 
and  courteous  efforts  \^th  offensive  indifference  till  her  pa- 
tience was  exhausted,  and.  the  Russo-Japanese  War  of  1904- 
05  began.  Its  results  as  completely  put  an  end  to  Russia's 
further  interference  in  Korea  as  the  China-Japan  War  had 
to  that  of  China  10  yrs.  before. 

^  By  two  great  wars  Japan  had  freed  Korea  from  all  inter- 
ference on  the  part  of  the  two  great  neighboring  empires,  and 
she  was  now  herseK  at  liberty  to  start  on  the  task  of  the  regen- 
eration of  the  unhappy  kingdom  which  had  been  the  ostensible 
object  of  all  her  interference  in  its  affairs  for  thirty  yrs.  Korea 
henceforth  stood  toward  JapaxL  in  the  same  relation  as  that 
of  Egypt  to  Great  Britain  staee  1882,  and  the  task  bcicst^ 
her  was  very  similar  to  that  which  faced  GieaX.  '^YvVaaav  —  Vft 


716    Route  U'  EOBEA 

reform  a  Gov't .  rotten  with  corruption  to  its  very  core,  and  to 
elevate  a  people  reduced  by  ages  of  oppression  and  spoliation 
to  the  lowest  abyssefs  of  unrelieved  misery  and  hopeless  de- 
gradation. All  Korea's  history  in  recent  years  left  no  hope 
that  she  could  ever  reform  herself.'    {The  Story  of  Korea,) 

The  atrocious  murder  of  the  Queen  consort  b}^  nifi^ans  in  the 
service  of  Yi  Haeung  (the  Tai  Won  Kun^  or  ranee  Parent  — 
of  the  King);  aided  by  low  Japanese  assassins,  in  1895,  and  the 
consequent  flight  of  the  King  to  the  Russian  Legation  (where 
he  remained  for  2  yrs.),  convinced  the  well-meaning  Tokyo 
Gov't  of  the  difficulties  attending  the  introduction  of  reforms 
in  a  state  not  entirely  under  its  control,  so  when  by  the  terms 
of  the  Portonouth  Treaty  (of  Sept.,  Id05)  Russia  acknowl- 
edged Japan's  'paramount  political,  militaiy,  and  economical 
interests  in  the  peninsula,  a  Protectorate  with  a  Resident 
General  vested  with  practically  sovereign  authority  was  es- 
tablished by  Japan  (1905-07),  and  the  reformation  of  the 
country  was  begun.  The  administration  of  the  Court,  its 
property  and  revenues,  was  taken  in  charge  by.  Japane&e  offi- 
cials; a  Cabinet  was  formed  on'  the  model  of  that  in  Japan; 
an  elaborate  scheme  of  local  gov't  was  adopted;  the  judiciary 
was  reformed;  taxation  readjusted;  prisons  cleansed  and  am- 
plified torture  abolished;  primary)  technical,  law,  language, 
agricultural,  forestry,  and  other  schools  established;  new 
highways,  streets,  and  parks  opened;  an  elaborate  system  of 
railways  planned;  and  more  abuses  corrected  and  civic  and 
other  reforms  instituted  than  China  and  Korea  combined  had 
perhaps  thought  of  during  the  preceding  two  thousand  yrs. 
When  the  Japanese  imdertook  the  work  of  reform  there  were 
but  two  classes  in  Korea,  'the  robbers  and  the  robbed.' 
Squeezing  and  peculation  were  the  rule  from  the  highest  to 
the  lowest,  and  every  position  was  bought  and  sold.  The 
peasants  had  neither  rights  nor  privileges,  except  that  of  being 
the  'ultimate  sponge.'  'Standards  of  official  rectitude  were 
unknown,  and  traditions  of  honor  and  honesty  if  they  ever 
existed,  had  been  forgotten  for  centuries.'  In  order  to  protect 
the  peasantry,  who  were  powerless  to  protect  themselves,  the 
Japanese  punished  grafters,  and  this  so  incensed  the  Kor- 
ean officials  that  assassination,  Korea's  craven  but  popular 
method  of  political  attack,  was  resorted  to,  and  Prince  Hiro- 
bumi  ItOf  whose  splendid  administration  was  in  a  fair  way  to 
regenerate  the  unhappy  country,  was  shot  (in  the  Hfkrbin 
Station)  Oct.  26,  1909.  Prior  to  this  the  old  Emperor  had  re- 
linquished his  crown  (July  17,  1907),  and  his  'long,  unhappy 
reign  had  come  to  an  end  (the  reign  which  commenced  wiu 
the  extermination  of  the  Christians  within  his  dominions  and 
ended  with  these  dominions  in  the  firm  grasp  of  his  traditional 
enemy)  and  a  new  Empecoi  V^  been  installed;  but  his  reign 
was  destined  to  be  bnel?  'Ei^erj^iltsfis^t^c^^Q^fc^ 


History,  KOBEA  U^  Rouie.    717 

unavoidable  end;  Korean  politics  showed  a  perpetual  repeti- 
tion of  the  same  tale:  plot,  counterplot,  insurrection,  and  foreieh 
complications.  The  prutal  murder  (March  24,  1908)  of  Mr. 
Durham  White  StevenSf  the  American  Councillor  to  the  Koreaii 
Gov't,  and  that  of  the  lamented  Prince  Ito  (one-time  Resident 
General  of  Korea,  and  at  the  time  of  his  death  President  of  the 
Frivy  Council  in  Japan)  were  the  last,  straws,  and  on  Aug.  22, 
1910,  Korea  was  formally  annexed  to  the  Japanese  Empire. 

On  introducing  the  new  regime,  the  Mikado  pardoned  1711 
criminals,  granted  special  gifts  to  12,115  aged  members  of  the 
Korean  aristocracy  and  literati,  and  to  3209  faithful  women  and 
dutiful  sons,  and  distributed  special  bounties  (amounting  to 
17,398,000  yen)  to  317  rural  districts.  In  addition  he  ordered 
to  be  immediately  established  35  sericultural  training  schools,  • 
21  for  weaving,  8  for  paper-making,  3  fishery  training  schools, 
13  industrial  workshops,  37  seedling  nurseries,  4  mulberry 
farms,  and  several  himdred  primary  schools,  etc.  The  scien- 
tific, hygienic,  educational,  and  other  reforms  instituted  by  the 
Japanese  would  require  a  book  to  catalogue.  Nearly  every 
city  now  has  its  industrial  sdiools,  and  model  farms  and  even 
model  villages  have  been  established  throughout  the  country 
to  teach  the  beni^ted  people  how  to  help  memselves.  A  net- 
work of  rlys.  is  being  pushed  in  all  directions;  mines  are  being 
developed;  hospitals  and  waterworks,  telephones  and  tele- 
graphs installed;  the  cities  have  been  cleansed,  beautified,  and 
rendered  safe  for  all;  aliens  are  protected;  the  death-rate 
among  the  people  has  been  matenally  diminished,  and  the 
public  health  has  noticeably  increased.  Small  manufacturing 
plants,  museiuns,  public  libraries,  and  institutes  for  the  aged, 
the  helpless,  and  the  blind  are  now  to  be  found  in  several  of  the 
cities,  along  with  courts  where  justice  is  dispensed  and  from 
which  intrigue  has  been  abolished. 

The  progress  of  the  erstwlnle  Hermit  Kingdom  —  once  a 
'  going  piggery,'  but  now  something  more  than  a  geographical 
nonentity  —  has  been  almost  as  great  in  its  way  as  that  of 
Japan  dfter  its  opening  to  the  world  by  Commodore  Perry. 
That  intelligent  Koreans  will  later  be  as  grateful  to  Japan  as 
the  Japanese  now  are  to  the  United  Stat^,  there  is  but  little 
doubt.  With  customary  astuteness  and  good  willy  Japan  has 
adopted  the  admirable  British  idea  in  colonization  of  giving 
every  man,  British  or  alien,  friend  or  foe,  the  same  chance. 
The  dog-in-the-manger  policy — ^  one  of  the  silliest  ever  prac- 
ticed —  is  conspicuous  by  its  absence.  It  is  to  her  credit  also 
that  she  has  given  practically  a  free  hand  in  Korea  to  the  right 
sort  of  missionaries(of  whom  there  are  600  or  more,  75%  Amer- 
ican) in  their  chosen  but  not  always  amply  rewarded  tasks. 
For  dnoe  the  days  of  Father  Ceapedes,  certain  missionaries 
have,  by  splendid  work  and  continued  self  abasement,  striven 
for  the  upuf t  and  betterment  of  the  down-troddea  Kojcnai^ 


718    RoiUe  44.  KOREA  Korean 

and  not  a  little  of  the  refinement  noticed  among  certain  classea 
to-da^  could  easily  be  traced,  direct  to  their  unremitting 
individual  efforts.  Japan  is  to-day  r^>a^ing  Korea  for  centu- 
ries of  imjust  invasion,  by  the  introduction  of  civilization  and 
enlidiitenment.  The  student  may  consult:  The  Story  qf  Korea^ 
by  Joseph  H.  Longford  (London,  1911).  —  Corea  the  Hermit 
Nation,  by  WiUiam  EUiot  Griffis  (New  York,  1907).  --Korea, 
by  Angtis  Hamilton  (New  York,  1904).  —  Korea  and  Her 
Neighbors,  by  Isabella  BirdrBishoiQ^ew  York,  1897).  —  His- 
tory of  Korea,  by  Rev,  John  Ross  (Paisley,  1880).  —  History  of 
Korea,'  by  Homer  Htdbert  (Seoul,  1904) ;  and  others.  The  actual 
progress  of  Korea  xmder  the  able  administration  of  tJie  Japan- 
ese is  set  forth  annually  in  an  interesting  book  (published  at 
•Seoul,  by  the  Government  General  of  Chosen)  call^  Anniud 
Report  on  R^orms  a/nd  Progress  in  Korea. 

Korean  Characteristics.  The  average  Korean  man  is  5  ft. 
4  in.  tall,  of  good  physique,  weU  formed,  with  not  unhandsome 
Mongoloid  features,  oblique  dark-brown  eyes,  high  cheek- 
bones, and  noncurling  hair  that  shades  from  a  russet  to  a  sloe 
black.  The  olive  bronze  complexions  in  certain  instances  show 
a  tint  as  Ught  as  that  of  a  quadroon  —  a  phenomenon  which 
some  writers  lay  at  the  door  of  the  Dutch  sailors  of  the  Spar^ 
rowhawk  who  were  wrecked  off  the  coast  in  the  17th  cent.,  and 
held  prisoners  for  27  yrs.  To  the  observing  eye  there  is  the 
same  diversity  of  racial  types  among  Koreans  as  one  notes 
among  the  Japanese  and  Chinese.  Straight  and  aquiline 
noses,  as  well  as  others  that  are  broad  and  snubbed,  with  dis- 
tended nostrils  and  Negroid  characteristics  are  common,  and, 
as  is  the  case  with  the  Japanese,  all  do  not  show  the  looped- 
up  eyes.  The  physiognomic  peculiarities  are  sufficiently  dis- 
tinctive easily  to  differentiate  Koreans  from  Chinese  or  Japan- 
ese. The  hands  and  feet  of  both  sexes  and  all  classes  are  small 
and  well  formed;  the  finger  nails  are  almond-shaped.  The  men 
are  widowed  with  considerable  physical  strength  and  they  will 
carry  heavy  weights  on  their  shoulders  with  the  ease  of  Turk- 
ish porters  or  Mexican  cargadores.  They  are  a  sturdy,  non- 
maritime  race,  with  large,  fairly  healthy  famiU^.  Whiskers 
are  at  a  premium,  and  whenever  a  man  can,  he  raises  a  pseudo 
full  beard  of  spiky  hairs  that  refuse  to  grow  close  together  and 
which  can  be  counted  readily.  Those  who  cannot  force  this 
bristly  desideratum  wear  a  lean  black  mustache  turned  upside 
down  like  that  of  the  mandarin  pictured  on  tea-boxes,  and, 
when  possible,  cultivate  a  goatish,  paint-brush-like  imperial, 
similar  to  that  usually  shown  in  cartoons  of  *  Uncle  Samuel' 
of  the  United  States.  This  hirsute  adornment,  attached  to  the 
cheerful  if  vacant  Korean  physiognomy,  is  so  startlingly  like 
that  of  the  average  Cora  Indian,  of  Tepic  Territory,  in  Mexico 
(who  claim  that  their  forebears  came  from  the  Far  East,  and 
who  are  so  much  ASi^e  Hoi^kp'&bs^^^^\]^^  Me^cans  call  them 


Characteristics.  KOREA  U-  B^nde.    719 

ChinoSf  or  ChineBe),  as  to  make  a  singular  impression  upon  one 
acqutunted  with  the  two  peoples.  (Comp.  Terry's  Mexico fp,  95,) 

In  many  respects  the  Korean  is  sui  generis.  Frugal  m  the 
use  of  water  (to  which  he  has  a  determined  hostility),  fond  of 
a  frowsy  smell,  economical  of  the  truth,  as  avid  of  'fire-wat^ ' 
as  the  mi  man  of  the  American  pkdns,  and  with  li^t  prehensile 
fingers  that  readilv  assimilate  the  detachable  impedimenta 
of  the  'foreign  devil/  he  suspects  the  wide  world  and  possesses 
to  a  sordid  degree  the  Oriental  vices  of  dupUcity,  cunning,  and 
general  imtilistworthiness.  He  steals  freely  when  the  oppor- 
tunity offers,  and  lus  capacious  sleeves  and  baUoon-Uke  iiour 
sers  make  ideal  places  of  concealment  for  one's  cherished  be- 
longing. The  spawn  of  a  low  order  of  civilization,  he  is  untidy 
and  swinish  in  his  habits,  and  apathetic  in  the  face  of  work  — 
for  which  he  has  a  fervid  distaste.  He  is  a  bom  dawdler, 
gambler,  and  brawler:  and,  like  the  Chinaman,  he  has,  in  his 
fathomless  conceit  and  besotted  i^orance,  a  sturdy  and  un- 
shakable faith  in  his  own  impeccability  and  the  flagrant  worth- 
lessness  of  everything  foreign.  He  is  lethargic,  purposeless, 
devoid  of  thrift  or  ambition,  and  he  dwells  contentedly  amidst 
incredible  dirt  and  discomfort.  His  specialty  —  the  curse  of 
his  coimtry  —  is  soming  on  his  relatives  or  friends.  He  is  an 
inveterate  smoker  and  he  will  sit  for  hours  in  a  limp  state  of 
fatuous  vacuity,  sucking  a  bowlful  of  tobacco  not  la^er  than 
a  marrowfat  pea,  while  ms  puny  little  wife  (or  one  of  his  several 
concubines)  —  usually  several  hands  shorter  and  of '  much 
smaller  physique  —  may  be  squatting  beside  some  wayside 
pool  washing  the  raiment  which  her  lord  and  master  always 
wears  out  first  in  the  seat.  The  long-stemmed  pipe  with  its 
tiny  bowl  (much  like  the  Japanese  pipe)  of  enameled  base 
metal,  and  its  miniature  pellet  of  home-grown  tobacco  is  to 
him  what  the  cigarette  is  to  the  Spaniard,  —  an  almost  insep- 
arable companion.  Ov^  this  travesty  of  a  smoke,  men  and 
women  will  sit  for  hours  gossiping  and  indulging  in  acrid 
scandal;  for  owing  to  the  insatiable  curiosity  of  the  people  no- 
thing can  be  kept  sacred  or  secret.  They  are  said  to  be  the 
most  irrepressible  scandal-mong^^s  in  the  world,  —  which  in 
truth  is  saying  a  good  deal! 

One  of  the  qusuities  which  prove  Koreans  destitute  of  the 
commonest  sense  is  cruelty ;  in  this  respect  the  sensitive  person 
soon  classes  the  ooimtry  with  southern  Italy.  Few  travelers 
can  pass  throudi  Seoul  without  seeing  unfortunate  and  loudly- 
squawking  poultry  undergoing  the  painful  operation  of  being 
plucked  auve,  ana  there  is  no  dearth  of  mistreated  animals  to 
be  commiserated.  It  would,  indeed,  be  a  greedy  person  who 
would  wish  to  revisit  a  Korean  abattoir,  as  the  method  of  di»* 
patching  the  poor  animals  is  almost  too  revolting  to  be  de- 
scribed. The  throat  of  the  be^  is  first  cut,  then  a  p^  is  inserted 
in  the  opening,  and  the  butcher  takes  a  hatcbftt  qt  ^'^mk^ 


720    RmOe  U-  KOREA  Kenan 

mallet  and  beats  the  martyred  anknal  on  the  rump  until  it 
dies.  The  process  takes  about  an  hour,  and  the  wild-eyed  crea- 
ture suffers  aj^onies  of  terror  and  pain  before  it  loses  conscious- 
ness. By  this  wicked  method  ver^r  little  blood  is  lost  during 
the  operation;  the  meat  is  full  of  it,  and  its  heavier  wei^t  is 
to  the  advantage  of  the  vendor.  The  method  is  so  repug- 
nant to  foreigners  that  they  deal  almost  exclusively  wiUi  the 
Japanese  butchers,  shtmning  the  Korean  product  as  one  does 
pork  at  Shanghai.  Goats  (which  are  sold  for  mutton)  are  kiUed 
by  pulling  them  to  and  fro  in  a  rivulet;  a  method  which  is  said 
to  destroy  the  rank  taste  of  the  flesh.  Dogs  are  dispatched  by 
twirling  them  in  a  noose  until  they  are  unconscious,  after  which 
they  are  bled. 

The  people  are  practically  without  a  national  religion;  an* 
cestor-worship  innuences  their  life  and  character  (chiefly 
throu^  fear  of  what  demons  may  do  to  them  if  they  neglect 
the  spnits  of  those  that  have  gone),  and  Confucianism,  \^ich 
is  ostensibly  the  official  cult,  is  supposed  to  provide  the  guidizig 
rules  of  life.  A  wave  of  Buddhistic  fervor  swept  over  the  land  in 
the  15th  cent.,  but  it  left  but  littie  impress  on  the  Kbrean 
morality.  Sorcerers  and  sorceresses  abound  and  fatten  on  the 
credulity  of  the  unlettered  classes,  and  while  exorcising  al- 
leged evil  spirits,  they  annex  the  victims'  cash.  Demonism 
with  its  host  of  allied  superstitions  gives  rise  to  many  idolatrous 
practices,  and  not  a  few  ridiciilous  customs;  an  uncharitable 
and  characteristic  one  of  these  is  to  stuff  rude  straw  dolls  with 
a  few  C€i8h,  and  on  certain  days  cast  them  into  the  street,  so 
that  the  imwary  who  pick  them  up  may  acquire  all  the  present 
and  future  ills  of  the  persons  who  threw  them  out  I  Christian- 
ity is  making  its  influence  felt,  and  it  is  indubitably  the  reli- 
gion of  the  future. 

Koreans  usually  settle  individual  or  village  disputes  or  feuds 
with  stones;  they  are  said  to  be  the  most  ei^ert  stone-throwers 
in  the  world,  both  in  their  accuracy  of  aim  and  in  the  force 
and  distance  of  the  throw.  They  can  hurl  a  granitic  message 
through  the  air  with  a  dexterity  peculiarly  exnoarrassing  to  an 
opponent,  and  about  every  so  often  the  necessity  seems  to  arise 
for  them  to  let  off  steam  in  this  Biblical  fai^on.  When  there 
is  a  dispute  between  villagers,  instead  of  soiling  their  knives 
on  their  enemies,  each  side  lines  up  its  most  pugnacious  men, 
who  in  turn  scour  the  neighborhood  for  the  hardest  missiles 
they  can  find.  When  these  are  piled  in  convenient  places,  each 
side  draws  off  and  the  battle  begins.  Until  the  projectiles  have 
all  been  thrown  out  of  reach,  the  sight  is  a  peculiar  one.  The 
men  stand  their  ground  gamely  enough  until  downed  by  some 
hurtling  boulder.  For  a  time  the  air  is  thick  with  flying  stones, 
which  oftentimes  clash  in  mid-air  witii  on-coming  ones  and 
Btrike  brilliant  sparks  from  them.  Battered  faces  and  bruised 
beads  are  always  the  outcomie  oi  ti^Me  little  tribal  wan. 


Chqrotderi8tic8.  KOREA  U-  ^2(Hi^.    721 

Swinging  is  a  favorite  pastime;  at  certain  seasons  stout 
swings  are  erected  at  almost  every  village,  for  the  ex^oyment 
of  old  and  yoimg.  Kite-flying  is  the  sport  most  relished  by 
men  and  boys  (Jan.  is  the  great  monui,  on  account  of  the 
light  winds),  since  considerable  discomfiture  can  be  given  an 
opponent  by  cutting  his  kite-string  (and  thus  winning  his 
kite)  by  a  more  skillfully  manipulated  string  coated  with  glue 
and  powdered  glass.  —  The  native  music  is  a«  painful  to  the 
foreign  ear  as  ours  is  to  the  Koreans;  the  musical  instruments 
are  many  and  of  crude  workmanship  and  design.  Drums,  cym- 
bals, gongs  (of. which  the  people  are  passionately  fond),  un- 
keyed  bugles,  trumpets,  flutes,  several  sizes  of  rude  guitars, 
'  and  a  five-stringed  violin  assist  in  the  execution  of  their  wild 
and  melancholy  minstrelsy  —  from  the  dissonancy  of  which 
foreigners  usually  hasten  as  fast  as  possible. 

Of  Korean  grotesqueries  the  national  costume  is  among  the 
most  pronounced.  The  grass-cloth  worn  by  both  sexes  is  made 
from  the  fiber  of  a  white  nettle  {Urtica  nweus)  grown  in  many 
parts  of  the  country  and  woven  on  rude  looms.  When  the 
upper  classes  can  afford  it,  they  wear  thin  silks  of  the  brightest 
colors  obtainable,  usually  blue,  green,  and  purple,  or  white. 
The  voluminous  winter  costume  consists  of  huge  trousers  and 
socks  and  a  sleeved  coat.  The  costume  peculiar  to  the  women 
of  the  capital  is  a  swathed  skirt  (resemblmg  exaggerated  Turk- 
ish trousers)  and  a  (masculine)  green,  blue,  or  lavender  silk 
coat  put  over  the  head  and  clutched  below  the  eyes,  the  long 
wide  sleeves  falling  from  the  ears.  The  effect  is  that  of  a  person 
who  has  hastily  thrown  a  coat  over  the  head  without  putting 
the  arms  through  the  sleeves.  Tradition  has  it  that  the  custom 
arose  at  a  time  when  most  of  the  fighting  men  were  slain,  and 
women  had  to  mount  the  walls  arrayed  in  men's  coats  to  de- 
ceive the  enemy.  It  is  declared  that  no  Korean  woman  ever 
puts  her  arms  through  the  sleeves  of  her  coat. 

The  Korean  Top-Knot,  an  inherited  custom  established 
upward  of  20  centuries  ago,  is  as  much  a  Korean  characteristic 
as  the  queue  has  long  been  in  China.  The  average  Korean  is 
very  much  attached  to  it,  as  it  is  his  badge  of  legal  manhood 
(rather  than  one  of  subjugation,  like  the  pig-taU),  and  until 
he  possesses  it  he  has  the  title  of  'a  half  man  bestowed  upon 
him.  Boys  wear  twin  plaits  or  tails  down  their  baclra  until 
thev  are  old  enough  to  be  invested  with  this  manly  attribute, 
and  the  in  vesture  is  one  of  the  most  important  ceremonies  in 
their  Uves.  To  the  American,  this  hirsute  adornment  bears  a 
'  striking  resemblance  to  a  twist  of  Navy  tobacco;  it  is  protected 
by  a  fine  crinoline  hat  (made  of  horsehair)  which  distmguiahes 
Koreans  from  all  other  nationalities.  It.  weighs  about.!} 
ounces,  and  through  its  fine  meshes  one  can  see  the  cherishea 
knot  coiled  tightly  on  the  top  of  the  wearer's  head.  ThetasvcL- 
cated  conical  crown  (which  la  about  5  in.  m  (^tu^^ibc  ^  ^d(>A 


722    Route  44-  KOREA  Korean 

base,  tapering  to  4  in.  at  the  top),  with  its  circular  brim 
(about  18  in.  across)  gives  it  the  appearance  of  a  new-Ian- 
gled  fly-trap.  When  tied  beneath  the  chin  with  broad  blade 
crinoline  ribbons,  it  imparts  to  a  chubby,  bewhiskered  face 
a  ludicrously  lackadaisical  and  infantile  air  I  It  is  not  un- 
like the  old-style  Welshwoman's  hat^  or  that  of  a  Tipperary 
brawler.  Of  a  uniform  glossy  blacky  it  is  a  source  of  oeaselees 
anxiety  to  the  wearer;  if  it  gets  wet  it  is  ruined,  and  to  i»«vent 
tins  it  is  often  covered  with  an  oiled  paper,  an  arrangement 
both  conical  and  comical.  They  are  the  special  predilection  of 
the  Yang  hems  (officials  and  men  of  leisure),  who  saunter  along 
the  street  with  a  serenity  bom  of  possessing  absolutely  nothing 
and  consequently  having  nothing  to  lose.  This  decayed  gentry, 
who  trv  so  hard  to  impress  the  beholder  with  their  worm,  who 
strut  along  with  a  swinging  gate  befitting  their  supposed  stand- 
ing, and  whose  pockets  are  usually  as  empty  as  their  top- 
knotted  pates,  form  a  striking  class  m  Korea.  Theor  long  bam- 
boo pipes  and  their  wooden  shoes  recall  those  of  the  first 
Dutchmen  who  came  to  Japan,  and  their  haughty  demeanor 
(much  copied  by  the  aspinngjetmesse  dorSe)  oftentimes  accords 
Uly  with  their  general  appearance  of  ambulating  rag-bagg. 
Many  of  the  Koreans  possess  an  alert  mentality,  but  this  is 
usually  so  befogged  by  superstition,  prejudice,  and  conceit, 
that  it  is  of  little  use  to  them. 

The  social  position  of  Korean  Women  is  deplorable.  They 
have  been  rigidly  secluded  for  ages;  they  are  the  slaves  of  their 
masters,  the  men,  and  they  are  kept  down  by  a  tyrannical 
oppression  that  would  scarcely  be  credited  in  the  West.  Silence 
is  regarded  as  a  woman's  first  duty;  her  husband  addresses  her 
by  the  Word  yabuy  signifying  *  Look  here,*  which  is  significant 
01  her  relations  to  him.  From  a  young  girl  she  is  kept  carefully 
shut  up  and  is  not  allowed  to  be  seen  or  spoken  to  by  a  man. 
She  has  no  voice  in  the  matter  of  her  marriage,  as  her  husband 
is  selected  for  her  by  her  father.  She  may  never  have  seen  her 
husband  before  the  wedding-day,  and  even  then  etiquette  does 
not  permit  her,  throughout  ^1  the  festivities,  to  exchange  a 
word  with  him.  If  a  man  speaks  to  a  girl  before  she  is  married, 
she  is  considered  as  disgraced;  if  a  malevolent  ravisher  pene- 
trates to  her  apartment  at  night  undiscovered,  it  is  safer  for 
her  to  permit  him  to  work  his  will  rather  than  to  call  for  help, 
for  thus  the  world  would  know  that  a  man  had  spoken  to 
her,  and  she  would  be  dishonored!  Despite  the  fact  that  the 
Koreans  are  an  intensely  passionate  people,  a  man  is  supposed 
never  to  glance  at  a  woman.  Marriage  at  an  early  age  is  com- 
mon among  them,  and  immorality  is  commoner. 

Korean  women  have  alwayB  borne  the  yoke.   They  accept 
inferiorityras  their  natural  lot,  and  they  do  not  look  for  affec- 
tion in  marriage.  The  wVLe  baa  Teoog^lzed  duties  to  her  hus- 
band,  but  he  has  few,  \i  any,  Vi\«st.  \^Va  ««twA.lac  a  man  to 


Women.  EOKBA  U-  Bouie,    723 

treat  his  wife  with  external  marks  of  respect,  but  he  would  be 
an  object  for  scorn  and  ridicule  if  he  showed  her  affection  or 
treated  her  as  a  companion.  On  her  marriage-day  the  bride 
must  be  as  mute  as  a  graven  image.  This  silence  must  remain 
unbroken  even  in  her  own  room.  From  the  moment  she  enters 
the  nuptial  chamber  with  her  stranger  husband  (who  often- 
times attempts  to  make  her  break  her  silence  by  coaxing, 
taunts,  or  jeers),  she  is  spied  upon  by  all  the  female  servant 
of  the  house,  who  hang  about  the  doors  and  chinks  waiting  for 
such  a  breach  of  etiquette  as  speech.  A  single  utterance  would 
cause  her  to  lose  caste  forever  in  her  circle.  As  it  is,  whatever 
the  newly  wedded  couple  do  is  told  by  the  servants  to  all  the 
neighbornood,  which  evolves  choice  bits  of  scandal  in  order  to 
make  the  pair  a  laughing-stock  among  their  friends.  The  cus- 
tom of  silence  is  observed  with  great  rigidity  among  people  of 
the  so-called  upper  classes.  It  may  be  a  week,  or  many  weeks, 
before  the  husband  knows  the  sound  of  his  wife's  voice:  even 
then  she  speaks  only  when  absolutely  necessary.  The  daugh- 
ter-in-law often  passes  years  without  raising  her  eyes  to  those 
of  her  father-in-law,  or  addressing  him.  Among  the  highest 
class,  a  bridegroom,  after  passing  three  or  four  days  with  his 
wife,  leaves  her  for  a  considerable  time  to  show  his  indifference; 
to  act  otherwise  would  be  bad  form.  —  When  the  girl  becomes 
a  mother  her  position  is  somewhat  improved.  She  rarely  goes 
out  by  daylight  except  in  closed  chairs.  If  she  leaves  the  house 
at  night  it  must  be  with  her  husband's  consent,  and  she  must 
be  accompanied  by  some  one  to  bring  back  proof  of  where  she 
has  been.  Korean  babies  have  no  cradles,  and  are  put  to  sleep 
by  being  tapped  lightly  on  the  stomach.  Widows  are  not  per- 
mitted to  marry  again,  and  the  inevitable  consequence  is  that 
many  become  the  concubines  of  married  men.  Concubinage 
is  very  common.  Phyong  An  is  said  to  have  formerly  produced 
the  most  beautiful  women  in  Korea,  and  from  that  region  came 
the  Gesang  for  the  Royal  Court  at  SeouL 

Somewhat  different  social  regulations  apply  to  the  women 
of  the  lower  class,  who  share  in  the  toil  of  daily  life  and  must  in 
consequence  make  their  appearance  by  day  in  the  streets.  As 
a  rule  they  are  ill-bred  and  unmannerly,  far  removed  from 
the  gracefulness  and  charm  of  the  same  class  in  Japan.  The 
wearing  of  white  clothes  by  the  men  puts  severe  and  almost 
incessant  work  on  the  women's  shoulders,  and  they  are  the  na- 
tional drudges.  They  have  few  if  any  pleasures,  axxd  they  try 
to  get  even  with  fate  by  singeing  their  -compatriots  witn  the 
lash  of  their  pungent  and  scarifying  vocabula^.  The  average 
low-class  women  possess  a  fund  of  mvective  that  usuall^^senaa 
the  men  scattering  to  the  four  points  of  the  compass;  it  is  as 
inelegant  as  it  is  complete,  ana  it  seems  to  be  both  dreaded 
and  effective.  Age  treats  these  poor  creatures  shockingly  ^^  «»^ 
30  they  look  50,  and  at  60  the  stranger ^wii^ea  \i&  \Adi!K\»8«^^ 


724    Route  U-  KOREA  Komm 

them.  Thdr  ytxeoish  dispositions  indubita1;>ly  add  to  thdr 
extraordinaj^  unattractiveness.  One  pities  them  for  the  style 
(4  dress  evidently  forced  upon  them.  As  the  feminine  waist- 
Ikie  is  supposed  to  be  at  the  arm-pits,  and  as  tight  swath- 
ing of  the  bust  does  not  permit  the  mothers  to  respond  readily 
to  baby's  hungry  and  unperious  clamor,  the  twin  maternal 
founts  are  worn,  as  it  were,  on  the  outside.  Thus  the  firm  buds 
of  youth  and  the  flapping  rags  of  age  are  displayed  to  the 
world  —  exposing  to  sil  Korea  what  antipodal  women  strive 
to  conceal.  The  bulging  trousers  of  the  women  are  the  acme 
of  un'picturesqu^iess,  and  they  render  them  devoid  of  all  ^raoe 
and  chann.  One  is  often  astonished  in  Korea  at  the  patncian 
beauty  of  the  girl  children;  some  of  their  faces  are  unusually 
fine,  and  it  is  a  pity  that  age  does  not  in  their  case  fulfill  tbie 
|ux)mises  of  youth.  The  present  humane  government  is  striv- 
mg  to  amddorate,  the  condition  of  Korean  women,  and  the  closer 
observation  by  them  of  Western  ways  and  manners,  aided  by 
the  uplifting  work  of  the  missionaries,  is  having  a  beneficent 
effect. 

Food.   Koreans  are  voracious  meat-eaters,  and  the  cuisine 
is  On  the  whole  more  substantial  than  that  of  the  Japanese. 
OnmivoYousness  is  a  native  characteristic;  do^  meat  is  in  great 
request  at  certain  seasons,  and  dogs  are  extensively  bred  for  the 
table.    Pork,  beef,  fish.  —  raw,    dried,  and  salted,  —  the  in- 
testines of  animals,  all  oirds  and  ^ame,  no  part  being  rejected, 
are  eaten  —  a  baked  fowl,  with  its  head,  claws,  and  interior 
intact  is  considered  a  special  dainty  which  every  one  enjoys. 
Cooking  is  not  always  essential.  ^  In  this  respect  all  classes  are 
alike.    The  great  merit  of  a  meal  is  not  so  much  quality  as 
Quantity,  and  from  infancy  onward,  one  object  in  life  is  to  give 
tne  stomach  as  much  capacity  and  elasticity  as  is  possible,  so 
that  four  pounds  of  rice  daily  may  not  incommode  it.   People 
in  easy  circumstances  drink  wine  and  eat  great  quantities  of 
fruit,  nuts,  and  confectionary  in  the  intervals  between  meals, 
vet  are  as  ready  to  tackle  the  next  food  as  though  they  haa 
been  starving  for  a  week.   In  well-to-do  houses  beef  and  dog 
are  served  on  large  trenchers,  and  as  each  guest  has  his  separ- 
ate tablcj  a  host  can  show  generosity  to  this  or  that  special 
friend  without  helping  others  to  more  than  is  necessary. 
Large  as  a  portion  is,  it  is  not  imusual  to  see  a  Korean  eat  three 
and  even  four,  and  where  people  abstain  from  these  excesses 
it  may  generally  be  assumed  that  they  are  too  poor  to  indulge 
in  them.  It  is  (}uite  common  to  see  from  20  to  25  peaches  or 
small  melons  disappear  at  a  single  sitting,  and  without  being 
pneeled.   There  can  be  no  doubt  that  the  enormous  consumi>- 
tion  of  red  pepper,  which  is  supplied  even  to  infants,  helps  this 
giuttonous  style  of  eating.  It  is  not  surprising  that  (h^spepsia 
and  kindred  evils  are  very  coxmxiQiii  among  Koreans.  They  eai 
not  to  satisfy  hunger,  Ymt  t()  «ci\o^  Vb^  ^T^sA.Mvni  oC  reok^oo. 


V 


Food.       THE  KOREAN  ;LANGUAGE     U-  Rotate.    7^ 

The  training  for  this  enjo}rment  begins  at  a  very  early  age.  A 
mother  feeds  her  young  child  with  rice,  and  when  it  can  eat 
no  more  in  an  upright  position,  lays  it  on  its  back  on  her  lap 
and  feeds  it  again,  tappmg  its  stomach  from  time  to  time  witn 
a  flat  spoon  to  ascertain  if  further  cramming  is  possible.  **  The 
child  is  father  to  the  man,''  and  the  adult  ^orean  ^ows  that 
he  has  reached  the  desirable  stage  of  repletion  bv  eructations, 
splutterings,  slapping  his  stomach,  and  groans  of  satisfaction, 
looking  round  with  a  satisfied  air.  The  very  poor  only  take 
two  meals  a  day,  but  those  who  can  afford  it  take  three  and 
four.'  An:iong  the  dishes  djear  to  the  native  heart  are  pounded 
capsicum,  bean  curd,  various  sauces  of  abominable  odors,  a 
species  of  sour  kraut  (kimshi),  seaweed,  salt  fish,  and  salted 
seaweed  fried  in  batter.  'Hot  dog'  in  the  Uteral  sense  is  the 
pi^  de  resistance  of  the  Korean  menu. 

There  are  no  harder  or  more  constant  drinkers  than  the 
Koreans,  and  the  vice  is  conmion  to  all  classes.  The  greatest 
happiness  that  can  fall  to  the  commoner  is  to  be  able  to  drown 
his  cares  in  the  forgetfulness of  intoxication;  he  is  then  the  envy 
of  all  his  neighbors.  The  fermented  liquors  (for  which  Euro- 
peans have  to  acquire  a  taste)  vary  from  a  smooth  white  drink 
resembUng  buttermilk  in  appearance,  and  very  mild,  to  e  water- 
white  spirit  of  strong  smell,  fiery  taste,  and  great  potentiality. 
Between  these  comes  the  ordinary  rioe  wine,  slightly  yellowish, 
akin  to  Japanese  sake  and  Chinese  samshu,  with  a  famt,  sickly 
smell  and  flavor.  They  £jl  taste  more  or  less  strongly  of  smoke, 
oil,  and  alcohol,  and  the  fusel  oil  remains  even  in  the  best. 
They  are  paanufactured  from  rice,  millet,  and  barley.  The 
peasants  drink  hot  rice-water  (in  which  the  rice  has  been  boiled) 
with  their  meals,  honey-water  as  a  luxury,  and  occasionally  an 
infusion  of  orange  peel  and  ginger.   Tea  is  rarely  drunk. 

Language.  Modern  Korean  is  closely  akin  to  Japanese  in 
structure,  and  there  is  no  lack  of  cmalogues  in  the  terms  of  the 
two  tongues;  both  are  thought  to  be  of  Turanian  origin,  and 
Korean  bears  much  the  same  relation  to  Japanese  that  Italian 
does  to  Spanish.  Japanese  and  Koreans  learn  each  others'  Ian* 
guage  easily,  and  communicate  readily  by  the  written  charac- 
ters —  many  of  which  are  of  Chinese  origin.  As  in  Japan,  spe- 
cially Uterate  classes  introduce  archaic  Chinese  frequently  into 
their  conversation,  and  two  written  languages,  stilted  Chi^«B8 
and  a  derived  demotic,  are  used  side  by  side.  The  Korean 
alphabet,  or  Chv^mun,  said  by  expert  sinologues  to  be  one  of  the 
most  i^erfect  in  the  world,  was  invented  oy  Se  jong  in  1451, 
but  it  is  disdained  by  literates,  whose  education  is  usually  in 
the  Chinese  classics.  The  masses  can  usually  read  their  own 
script.  The  tongjue  is  a  difficult  one  for  foreigners  to  acquire; 
unlike  Japanese  it  is  full  of  ungallant  epithets  which  the  pro- 
letariat use  with  scandalous  indeganoy.  Scalding  invootK^^^ 
tneir  strong  pointy  and  senaitive  perBOOB  who  'V^sn^  \a  V9«s£&e«& 


w 


726    RtnUe  U-    KOHEAN  LITERATURE  The  Fhg, 


them  are  fortunate  in  not  knowing  the  language.  The  vituper- 
ative epithet  of  the  Koreans  is  'son  of  a  rat/  a  somewhat 
meaningless  expression  which  reflects  on  one's  father  —  usu- 
ally an  object  of  veneration  by  the  Korean  son.  Norn  (fool) 
when  apphed  in  a  contemptuous  tone,  is  apt  to  provoke  quick 
physical  retaliation;  emi,  the  root  form  for  'mother/  if  used 
m  a  disparaging  accusation  (referring  to  ancestry  and  moral 
purity),  is  very  offensive  to  Koreans,  and  often  stirs  up  a  fl^t. 
The  name  of  the  Creator  is  never  tak^i  in  vain. 

Korean  Literature  is  said  not  to  repay  one  for  the  time  spent 
in  studying  it.  The  inspiration  is  chiefly  (phinese;  the  natives 
lack  the  ardent  imagination  of  certain  Orientals,  and  literary 
themes  too  often  turn  to  erotic  things.  Love  songs  are  popu- 
lar, and  some  of  them  are  not  lacking  in  g^ace;  the  following 
stanza  (one  of  four)  translated  by  Mr.  Gale,  is  often  quoted:  — 

'SUvery  moon  and  frostjr  air. 
Eve  and  dawn  are  meeting; 
Widowed  wild  goose  flymg  there. 
Hear  my  words  of  greeting! 
On  your  journey  should  you  see 
Him  I  love  so  broken-heartedr 
Kindly  say  this  word  for  me, 
«  That  It 's  death  when  we  are  parted. 

Flapping  off  the  wild  goose  clambers. 
Says  she  will  if  she  remembers.' 

The  Flag  of  the  old  Korean  Kingdom  displayed  symbols 
which  travelers  frequently  gee  repeated  in  the  art,  architec- 
ture, and  decoration  of  the  people.  Though  apparently  totally 
different  from  those  on  the  Japan^e  flag,  the  emblems  are 
nevertheless  founded  on  the  same  order  of  ideas.  The  cabalis- 
tic central  figures  on  the  white  groimd  are  (in  the  philosophy 
of  the  Chinese)  the  Yang  and  Ftn,  or  male  and  female  prin- 
ciples of  nature  —  the  twofold  division  (the  first  strong  or 
hard,  the  second  weak  or  soft)  of  the  one  primordial  ki  (air)  — 
dual  powers  which  first  formed  the  outlines  of  the  universe,  and 
were  themselves  influenced  retroactively  by  their  own  crea- 
tions.   These  coma-shaped  figures  (called  by  the  Japanese 
Futatsvrtomoef  and  by  the  Chinese  Taiku,  the  body)  are  always 
shown  (in  Korea),  one  in  Ught,  one  in  shade,  coiled  within  an 
involved  circle  (called  Yang  and  Y&ng),  and  are  considered  a 
sort  of  distinctive  badge  of  nationality.    (Comp.  Kuro^hiwo, 
p.Vxlvi.)  The  mystic  forms  (siang)  at  the  four  comers  are  sup- 
posed to  express  the  state  and  position,  at  any  given  place  or 
time,  of  the  Yang  and  Yin,  and  they  are  called  Fuh-hi  (from 
FvMd,  the  supposed  foimder  —  in  b.c.  3322  —  of  the  Chinese 
nation).    Thev  represent  but  one  half  of  the  eight  trigrams 
ikwa)  evolved  from  the  two  original  principles,  and  among 
other  things  stand  for  the  four  cardinal  points,  the  earth,  fire, 
sun,  water,  clouds,  rivers,  seasons,  and  what-not.  The  mean- 
ings are  subtle  and  conixiHiii^XA  \>\^ft  \ax  mind;  an  effort  is  made 
to  explain  ihem  in  the  Yih  KiaQ  <^ol^S»^\B3Ma»^^^Gla8Bic8) 


Time,  KOREAN  RAILWAYS     U-  Rouie.    727 

or  Book  of  Changes,  translated  by  James  Legge  (Oxford,  1882). 
Consult  also  The  Middle  Kingdom,  by  S.  WeUs  WiUiams,  vol. 
1,  p.  626. 

THe  Railway  System  (about  1300  M.  of  standard  broad 
gauge)  is  owned  and  ably  managed  by  the  Government  General 
of  Chosen,  and  is  being  extended  rapidly.  The  equipment  is 
modem,  the  road-bed  and  rolling-stock  excellent,  and  trains 
are  run  at  a  safe  speed.  American  practice  is  in  vo^e,  and 
American  and  German  locomotives  are  used.  The  dimng-  and 
Pidlm>an-caxa  are  made  at  Dairen  and  in  Japan  and  mounted 
on  imported  PvRman  trucks.  Both  figure  on  the  fast  express 
trains  between  Fusan  and  ShingishU,  now  an  important  link 
in  the  round-the-world  route.  Fares  are  charged  at  the  rate 
of  5  sen  per  mile,  1st  cl.;  3}  sen,  2d  cl.;  and  2  sen,  3d  cl.,  with  a 
small  transit  tax  extra.  On  express  trains  an  additional  ¥2  is 
charged  for  distances  under  200  M. ;  ¥3  under  500,  and  ¥5  over 
500.  Children  imder  10  yrs.,  J  fare;  under  4  yrs.,  free.  The 
average  charge  for  a  single  berth  (not  wide  enough  for  2  pers.) 
in  a  sleeping-car  is  ¥5  for  12  hrs.,  and  ¥8  for  20-24  (or  from 
Fusan  to  Changchun),  Stop-overs  allowed  at  certain  of  the 
larger  cities.  Liquors,  tobacco,  postage-stamps,  etc.,  on  sale  in 
the  dining-car  (meals  at  fixed  price  and  d  la  carte).  Tlie  differ- 
ence between  the  1st  and  24  cl.  cars  is  so  slight  that  many  for- 
eigners travel  2d.  The  fast  trains  operated  m  connection  with 
those  of  the  Trans-Siberian  Rly.  usuallv  carry  1st  and  2d  cl. 
passengers  only.  Other  trains  have  only  2d  and  3d  cl.  cars. 
Luggage  allowance  133  lbs.,  1st  cl.;  80  lbs.,  2d.;  40  lbs.,  3d. 
Parcel  Check-Rooms  (3-6  sen  per  day  per  pkg.)  at  all  the 
big  stations  (many  of  which  now  have  Japanese  names). 
Luggage-porter  within  any  station,  3  sen  per  trip,  irrespec- 
tive of  the  number  or  size  of  the  pieces  carried.  There  are 
no  news-agents,  but  there  are  news-stands  at  the  stations. 
Train  conductors  wear  red  bands  round  their  arms^  train  boys 
on  1st  and  2d  cl.  cars  only.  Li  many  ways  the  train  service  is 
like  that  in  Japan.  Travelers  who  cannot  make  ticket-agents 
understand  their  wants  will  find  the  Information  Bureau 
(English  spoken)  service  (in  all  the  big  stations)  useful.  Rail- 
way Hotels  are  being  established  at  the  most  important  places. 
The  winter  schedule  of  trains  is  apt  to  differ  from  that  of  sum- 
mer. The  Railway  Bureau  issues  dainty  illustrated  booklets, 
time-cards,  etc.,  in  English  of  genuine  use  to  travelers.  —  Cen- 
tral Standard  Japanese  Time  is  used  in  Korea,  and  it  is  one 
hour  ahead  of  Manchurian  time.  —  The  fares  quoted  through- 
out the  Guidebook  are  approximate  only  and  are  apt  to  change. 

The  Osaka  Shosen  Kaisha  and  the  Nippon  Yusen  KaUha 
run  clean,  comfortable,  and  speedy  ships  between  Korean, 
Japanese,  and  Chinese  ports  (frequent  and  trustworthy  servioe) 
and  are  referred  to  in  various  places  in  the  Guidebook. 


726   JknO^  id,       FUaAN  TO  SEOUL 

15.  From  Fusan  via  Sanrdshin  (Masanpo),  TaikyA,  Shfl- 
fSbrei,  Taiden  (EimBan,  Mokpo),  Seikwan  and  Eitoho  (Jinseii» 

Chemulpo)  to  Seoul  (Keijd). 

Fusan-Seool  Line,  Korean  Railway. 

274  M.  Frequent  daily  trains  in  about  9  hrs.  Fare,  Ist  d.  ¥13.75;  2d  cL. 
¥9.d3;  3d  el.,  ¥5.50.  Extra  fare  on  express  trains.  Dining-cars  with  d  la 
carte  service.  The  placards  on  the  Seoul  cars  are  usually  marked  Seidainum. 
Those.on  the  down  trains  are  marked  Fusan.  None  of  the  intervening  cities 
possess  strong  attractions  for  foreigners.  The  mournful  little  hamlets  are 
devoid  of  vJH  comfort  and  chazra,  arid  oftentimes  they  so  blend  with  tbe  pr»> 
vailing  brown  of  the  landscape  as  to  be  scarcely  distinguishable  from  it. 

For  a  short  distance  the  rly.  skirts  the  shore  of  the  bay,  which 
here  is  usually  so  blue,  and  so  flecked  with  yellow-sailed  junks, 
as  strongly  to  remind  one  of  the  Bay  of  Naples.  Beyond  1  M. 
Soryo  (the  original  starting-point  of  the  FtLsariSeotd  Rly.),  a 
number  of  primitive  huts  <h  Korean  fishermen  flank  the  shore, 
their  thatched  roofs  sometimes  held  down  by  a  tangle  of  growing 
thelon-vines;  the  local  industry  is  the  catching  of  sardines  and 
the  gathering  of  edible  seaweed,  both  of  which  may  be  seen 
drying  in  the  sun  on  the  beach.  The  ruinous  old  castle  on  the 
hill  at  3  M.  Fusanchin  (pop.  13,000)  was  built  by  Toyotomi 
tiideyoshi's  general,  Konishi  Yuhinagd,  in  1592;  it  has  been 
the  scene  of  many  bloody  struggles  between  the  invading  Jap- 
anese and  the  Koreans.  History  records  that  on  one  occasion 
5000  Korean  defenders  were  slaughtered  here,  and  2000  primi- 
tive engines  for  hurling  cartouche  shots  captured.  Formerly 
the  castle  was  surrounded  by  deep  moats  defended  by  hun- 
dreds of  caltrops  on  which  it  was  hoped  the  Japanese  cavalry 
would  impale  itself.  Long  lines  of  white-clad  Koreans  plod  city- 
Ward  down  the  steep  hills  which  now  close  at  the  right  —  the 
slatternly,  uncomely  women  the  burden-carriers.  The  rly. 
winds  in  and  out  between  the  hills,  which  are  bare  and  brown 
in  the  winter,  but  green  and  flecked  with  cosmos  and  asters  in 
spring  and  summer.  The  few  graceful  pine  trees  which  look 
aown  upon  the  rice-fields  (2  crops  a  year)  recall  much  fairer 
scenes  in  Japan.  Many  of  the  hills  are  metal-impregnated  and 
are  marked  by  odd  rocks  fused  in  a  black  mass. 

11  M.  KihOf  on  the  shallow  Rakuto  River,  The  trend  of 
the  line  is  N.W.  through  a  poor  country  lacking  in  charm.  The 
native  villages  are  scarcely  better  than  those  of  Hottentots  — 
pictures  of  filth,  poverty,  and  sloth.  Many  of  the  huts  are 
round  and  in  shape  and  color  Uke  big  mushrooms,  built  of  stone 
and  straw,  and  so  poor  that  20  yen  in  cash  would  buy  a  town. 
The  dead  level  of  poverty  is  everywhere  apparent.  Lines  of 
dirty  men  and  women  with  a  dazed  and  purposeless  air  travd 
between  these  spots  and  the  adjacent  fields,  where  red  cattle 
help  to  dra^  rude  ploughs  inferior  to  those  used  in  Pharaoh's 
time,  and  aid  in  methc^  of  irrigation  (necessary  only  for  the 
nce-nelda),  that  suggest  BiYAVeaXe^^of^.  Qvi^^  occasionally  sees 


Chinhai  Bay.  MASANPO  4S.  Route.    729 

men  making  visible  efforts  to  work  clad  only  in  a  fillet  bomid 
romid  the  nead;  others  waste  the  precious  hours  strutting 
about  smoking  contemptible  little  long-stemmed  pipes  in  an 
effort  to  fill  in  their  monotonous  lives  in  a  monotonous  region. 
The  villages  are  usually  attended  by  a  retinue  of  voluminously 
ciad,  bare-breasted  women  destitute  of  grace  and  pulchritude; 
by  squalid  children,  black  goats,  runty  black  pigs  of  revolting 
habits,  and  noisy  geese,  the  latter  kept  chiefly  as  guards  a^ 
for  presentation  at  weddings  as  emblems  of  fidelity,  —  some- 
thing the  Koreans  do  not  possess^. — We  pass  the  unimport- 
ant stations  of  19  M.  Fukkinj  and  25  M.  Jndo.    At 

30  M.  Sanrdshin  (Korean,  Sam-^ang-jin^f  a  branch  line  runs 
in  a  S.W.  direction  to  25  M.  Masarty  or  Masanpo  (Inn:  Yoshi- 
kawa ;  ¥3)  a  growing  town  (pop.  14,000)  known  for  its  splen- 
did harbor  and  for  the  new  Japanese  city  and  naval  base  of 
Chinhai.  In  the  long  diplomatic  struggle  between  Russia  and 
Japan  for  the  possession  of  Korea,  the  fine  Chinhai  Bay  was 
earnestly  coveted  by  both.  Trains  leave  (several  daily,  in 
about  1  hr.:  Ist  cl.  fare,  ¥1.25;  2d  cl.,  88  sen)  for  Masanpo 
from  the  main  line  station.  —  Beyond  Sanrdshin  the  Nak-Umg 
River  is  seen  at  the  left;  the  train  enters  a  hilly  country,  stony, 
je][une,  and  sparsely  settled.  The  scrub  pines  which  clothe  cer- 
tain of  the  slopes  are  characteristic  features  of  Korean  scenery. 
Tunnels  become  frequent  as  the  line  penetrates  the  higher 
ranges  of  the  hills.  38  M.  Mitsuyo  (pop.  13,000,  on  a  fine 
plain).  The  river  (good  trout-fishing)  is  crossed  and  the  rly. 
curves  broadly  to  avoid  some  of  the  loftiest  hills,  which  are 
riven  by  long,  arid,  sparsely  settled,  uncultivated  valleys.  46 
M.  Ytisen.    52  M.  Sddo.    67  M.  Keizan. 

77  M.  TaikyU  (Inn:  TaikyH-kwan;  Tatsujdkanj  the  latter 
near  the  station;  both  ¥3),  one  of  the  most  flourishing  towns 
in  S.  Chosen,  has  8000  inhabs.  and  stands  on  a  wide  rice-plain 
surrounded  by  hills.  The  Tatsujd  Park  is  about  f  M.  to  the 
S.W.  The  track  now  crosses  a  region  of  wide  cultivated  valleys 
watered  by  thin  streams  and  hemmed  in  by  stately  mts.  Manv 
of  the  house-roofs  flame  in  autumn  with  the  red  peppers  which 
form  piquant  items  in  the  native  cookery.  Occasionally  one 
glimpses  crude  water-pestles  used  for  hulling  rice  —  contriv- 
ances consisting  of  a  heavy  log  centered  on  a  pivot  with  a 
weighty  peistle  at  one  end,  and  a  box  at  the  other.  When  the 
latter  is  tilled  with  the  water  diverted  into  it,  it  tips  and  bean 
down  one  end  of  the  lo^;  the  pestle  then  ascends  with  a  Bolemn, 
crushing  thud  on  the  nee  in  the  tub  or  hollowed  stone  serving 
as  a  mortar.  Like  the  'poor  folks'  of  other  lands  the  poverty- 
pinched  Koreans  maintain  kennels  of  sturdy  but  craven, 
mangy  yellow  dogs,  which  race  with  the  train  as  it  runs  pAst 
their  doors.  Many  black  magpies  enliven  the  fields.  Thetock- 
strewn  hills  remind  travelers  of  Mexico,  and  the  filth  and  leth- 
argy of  the  Mexican  peon  is  reflected  in  the  domestic  oMAisco^ 


730    Route  4S.  TAIKYU  RumlLife. 

of  the  Korean,  —  whoee  mind  is  usually  as  sterile  as  his  coun- 
try, or  as  shallow  as  the  streams  which  cross  it.  88  M.  Skmdd, 
in  a  broken  country  where  purple  asters  and  field  daisies  grow. 
Hie  distant  hills  look  grim  and  forbidding.  Some  of  tli^  cruddy 
fashioned  earthenware  used  in  Korean  homes  is  made  hereabout. 
The  general  aspect  of  the  country  beyond  94  M.  Waikwan  is 
bare  and  monotonous,  and  were  it  nor  for  the  majesty  which 
the  very  baldness  of  the  mts.  suggests,  and  the  glorifying  ^ect 
of  the  matchless  blue  sky,  it  womd  all  be  wearisome  to  the  eye 
and  mind.  The  rly.  soon  describes  a  wide  curve  to  the  idrt, 
enters  a  tunnel,  and  on  emerging  crosses  the  Ndh-Umg  on  a  7- 
span  steel  bridge.  Other  tunneus  are  features  of  the  region, 
wUch  is  marked  by  vegetable  wax-trees  planted  by  the 
thrifty  Japanese.  99  M.  Jakiiboku.  The  pernicious  effects  (tf 
the  wholesale  deforestation  of  the  mts.  is  shown  hereabout  in 
the  deeply  gashed  slopes  and  the  parched  and  barren  valleys 
between.  Some  of  the  hills  are  basaltic  with  huge  blocks  of 
basalt  that  protrude  from  between  the  sparse  scrub  pines. 
Beyond  105  M.  Kin-^usan,  a  wretched  and  melancholy  town, 
the  train  threads  a  tunnel,  then  runs  down  a  narrow  vaDey 
watered  by  several  tributaries  of  the  Nah4ong  which  meander 
like  slim  blue  threads  across  the  region.  In  the  hamlets  whidi 
generally  back  up  to  these  streams,  pottery-maJcing  is  the  chief 
local  inaustry.  115  M.  Kinsen  (pop.  4500).  Persimmon  ot- 
chards  are  now  features  of  the  country,  which  is  dotted  with 
crude  potteries.  Swineherds  and  shepherds,  as  primitively  dad 
as  Pan  himself  and  almost  as  suggestive  of  goats,  lead  thdr 
meager  flocks  across  the  dry  hills,  and  add  me  if  not  color  to 
the  views. 

125  M.  ShafUrei  (812  ft.),  the  highest  point  on  the  line,  marks 
the  watershed  of  the  massive  lateral  spur  which  extends  west- 
ward from  the  great  axial  range  of  the  Paik-tu  Mts.  of  the  E. 
coast,  and  separates  the  province  of  N,  KyongSyang  (which 
we  have  just  left)  from  N,  Chyung-Chyong  (which  the  train 
now  enters).  131  M.  Kokan,  140  M.  Eiddy  the  half-way  sta- 
tion between  Fuaan  and  Seoul.  147  M.  Shinsen.  153  M.  lin. 
The  rly.  now  describes  a  great  horseshoe  curve,  runs  up  a  steep 
slope  opposite  the  station,  rounds  a  high  hill  on  a  stiff  gradient, 
and  offers,  in  retrospect,  some  of  the  most  satisfying  vistas  on 
the  journey.  Beyond  the  tunnel  extensive  views  over  a  wide 
expanse  of  territory  open  out  at  the  right.  160  M.  Yokusen, 
The  up-grade  is  still  stiffish,  and  from  the  terraces  on  which  the 
trains  run^  one  gets  glimpses  of  a  picturesque  town  on  the  bank 
of  a  winding  stream  far  down  at  the  right.  Four  tunnels  are 
passed  through  before  we  reach 

170  M.  Taiden  (Taicftuti),  point  of  departure  for  a  branch 
line  viil  9  nondesciipt  et&iioii^  \a  ^^  ^.  KuivAan^  a  port  (in 
N.  ChyoUa  Province)  on  tlbaX^o^  ^ft»i,\3««t  >i5ofc«toMa^  ^ 
the  Keum  River. 


Practical  Notes.  SEOUL  46,  Bouie.    731 

Trains  (several  daihr  in  about  4  his.)  leave  from  the  main  line  station; 
fare.  1st  cl.,  ¥3.45;  2d  cl.,  ¥2.42.  —  Steamers  of  the  OaakarJvMen  Line  of 
the  Oaaka  Shoaen  Kaiaha  call  at  Kunaan  twice  weekly 'fare  from  uac^,  ¥27: 
Kunaan  to  Chemulpo,  ¥7.50;  to  Mokpo,  ¥7.50.  —  The  objective  point  of 
the  rly.  b  Mokpo  (105  M.  to  the  S.  m  <S.  Chyollt^  a  busy  port  in  a  fine 
affiicultural  region,  near  the  mouth  of  the  Yong-aan  River.  Bi-weekly  ships 
of  the  Oaaka-Shoaen  Kaiaha  make  it  a  port  of  call.  To  (269  M.)  Chemulpo , 
¥9;  to  Oaaka,  ¥27. 

Northward  of  Taiden  the  rly.  traverses  a  region  of  denuded 
hills  drained  by  numerous  puny  rivulets,  then  crosses  the 
Keum  River  to  179  M.  Shinnanshin,  187  M.  FukOf  on  the 
Kinko  River.  193  M.  Chochiin.  202  M.  Zengi.  The  broad 
wagon-road  leading  over  the  hills  goes  to  the  Chiksan  Mining 
CoPs  property.  The  pink  and  white  ibises  which  one  notes  in 
the  fields  beyond  feed  on  a  species  of  large  and  unusually  hand- 
some frog  of  a  vivid  green  color  with  black  velvety  spots,  the 
under  side  of  the  legs  and  body  being  a  rich  red.  —  207  M. 
Shoseiri.  214  M.  Ten-any  starting-point  for  the  near-by  On-yd 
Hot  Springs.  The  region  roundabout  is  the  favorite  haimt  of 
fine  copper  pheasants,  many  of  which  start  up  and  whirr  off  at 
a  rapid  pace  before  the  approach  of  the  train.  221  M.  Seiktoan 
(Song-hoan).  Asan  Bay  and  an  old  battlefield  of  the  China- 
Japan  War  lie  toward  the  N.W.  The  rly.  soon  crosses  the  An- 
jo  River  on  a  steel  bridge  388  ft.  long.  —  227  M.  Heitaku.  232 
M.  Seiseiri.  240  M.  Usan.  224  M.  Beiten,  The  broad  rice- 
fields  backed  by  distant  mts.  are  bright  with  color  imparted  by 
long-tailed  pheasants  of  beautiful  plumage.  The  region  shows 
its  proximity  to  Seoul  and  looks  prosperous.  248  M.  Suigen 
(/Stton),  one-time  capital  of  the  district,  with  13,000  inhabs., 
contains  a  number  of  uninteresting  old  temples,  some  ruinous 
palaces,  an  ancient  astronomical  observatory,  and  an  Agricul- 
tural and  Industrial  Model  Farm,  maintained  by  the  Gov't  for 
the  advancement  of  agriculture.  The  district  is  pleasing,  with 
many  pine  and  willow  trees.  The  big,  sleek  red  bulls  which  help 
the  farmers  in  their  tasks  carry  a  fr&mework  on  their  backs, 
with  capacious  side  pockets  into  which  hay  is  thrust.  Numer- 
ous quamt  arched  stone  bridges  and  tombs,  in  the  form  of  gran- 
ite tortoises  with  shafts  rising  from  their  backs,  are  features  in 
the  landscape.  Broomcom,  rice,  and  various  grains  are  the 
chief  crops.  —  225  M.  Gumpojo.  259  M.  An-^o,  263  M.  Shikd. 
At  268  M.  Eitoho  (  Yonq-dong-po)  Jct.f  north-bound  travelers 
who  do  not  wish  to  continue  on  to  Seoid  change  cars  for  Che- 
mtdpo  (Rte.  47).  Tlie  line  now  cross^  the  broad  and  deep 
Han  River f  over  an  American  steel  bridge  2000  ft.  long  and 
53  ft.  above  the  stream.  272  M.  RyUzan  (Yong^an)  Jet.  is  a 
suburb  of  Seoid  and  the  administrative  center  of  the  Korean 
Rlys.  274  M.  Seoul  (Nandaimon  Station), 

46.  Seoul  and  its  Enyirons 

Am'ral   Travelers  usually  alight  at  the  iVandaimon  StoHon  V^mxo^  Vo« 
the  big  gate  aear  by  and  pronotwoed  i^on-die'^HUxm) ,  m  \w>\»\  itiwaBW  *»»• 


73^    Route  40.  6E0UL  HaUk. 

■ 

Jinrikup  await  them  here.  The  (|  M.  farther)  Seidaimon  (Mq^-^fje'-moon) 
Station  is  uaed  chiefly  by  regidents  of  the  W.  quarter  of  the  dty.  —  Ref  regi- 
ment Room.  InformationBureau  where  En^isb  is  spoken.  The  Rly.  Co.  will 
deliver  trunks  to  any  part  of  the  city  (within  2  hrs.  unless  they  reach  the 
dty  after  10  p.i^.)  for  10  sen  each,  ihrespective  of  sise.  Push-carts  fn»n  the 
hotel,  holding  2-3  or  5-^  trunks  and  several  hand-bags,  cost  50-80  sen.  De- 
liver checks  td  the  runner  or  the  manager.  Jinriki  full  of  grips  to  the  hotel* 
25  sen;  small  trunk  on  the  hotel  cart,  20  sen. 

Hotels  (comp.  p.  xxiz).  *S(miaq  Hotel  (Tel.  add.:  'Sontag,  Sooul '),  one 
of  the  best  known  and  most  popular  in  Korea  ([formerly  a  private  hotel  of 
the  Imperial  Korean  Household),  with  electric  lights,  free  baths,  a  reading- 
room  well  stocked  with  papers  and  maga2dQes  from  many  lands,  stands 
about  1  M.  N.  of  the  Nandaimon  Station  (Pi.  B,  3)  in  a  spadous  garden  with 
many  fine  trees  and  flowers,  in  the  Liegatioo  Quarter  (adjacent  to  the 
sometime  French  legation).  Bnglish,  French,  German,  and  Spanish  spoken. 
French  cooking.  Fresh  milk  from  the  hotel  dairy.  Single  rooms  in  the  main 
building,  ¥8-10  a  day.  Am.  pi.  DouUe  rooms,  ¥14-16.  In  the  annex,  ¥7-8 
and  ¥12  respectively.  The  hotel  is  apt  to  be  crowded  in  the  spring  and 
autimin  seasons  and. rooms  should  be  engag^d  in  advance. —  JAPAmcss  Inns 
(comp.  p.  zxxiv).  Hajd-kwan;  Keijd  Hotel;  Tenshin-^Of  etc.  All  ¥3  a  day 
li,nd  upward.  —  The  foreign  visitor  to  Seou)  who  lodges  with  friends  or  at 
places  other  than  the  regular  hotels  or  inns  piay  wish  to  remember  that 
after  a  sojourn  of  10  d^s  his  or  her  name,  nationality,  occupation,  etc., 
along  with  previous  stopping-place,  and  the  day  and  hour  of  arrival,  must  be 
registered  (by  the  host)  at  police  headquarters.  The  hour  and  date  of  leav- 
ing, and  the  destination,  must  also  be  reported^  within  24  hrs.  Failure  to 
obey^  this  dty  ordinance  is  punishable  by  detention  or  a  fine. 

Jinrikis  (p.  Ikxzviii^  drawn  by  husky  (but  oftentimes  lasy  and  covetous) 
Koreans  ply  for  hire,  with  stands  at  the  stations,  hotels,  and  at  various  points 
throughout  the  dt^.  The  correct  fare  from  the  Nandaimon  Station  to  the 
Sontag  Hotel  (20  min.)  is  25  sen.  As  in  Japan,  the  hotel-keepers  and  others 
are  powerless  to  prevent  imposition  on  travelers,  for  to  side  with  the  stranger 
may  result  in  having  one's  premises  boycotted,  and  the  hotel  belittled.  The 
traveler  should  resent  overcharge,  and  in  cases  of  dispute  should  proceed  to 
the  nearest  police  station.  The  schedule  is  drawn  up  by  the  Police  Depart- 
ment, and  tne  men  are  supposed  to  adhere  to  it.  The  fixed  rate  within  the 
city  walls  is  30  sen  an  hr.;  per  day  ¥1.50  (with  2  coolies,  ¥2);  i  day,  with 
one  man,  ¥1.  For  trips  outside  the  walls  a  special  agreement  must  be 
reached  with  the  man.  The  tendency  is  steadily  upward,  and  the  coolies 
have  learned  that  foreigners  usually  prefer  to  submit  to  an  overcharge 
ralJier  than  make  a  scene.  A  list  of  the  correct  fares  from  the  hotel  to  differ- 
ent points  will  be  found  in  the  hotel  lobby. 

Electric  Tram-Cars  run  to  nearly  all  parts  of  the  city,  and  are  clean, 
^eedy,  and  cheap.  Fares  (usually  3  sen)  are  collected  according  to  distance. 
Horses  are  popular  and  can  be  hired  cheaply  of  the  hotel  manager.  They 
are  more  satisfactory  for  single-day  excursions  than  jinrikis.  Laundry  is 
done  at  the  hotel  at  7  sen  per  piece,  irrespective  of  size. 

Guides  (comp.  p.  xxvl)  for  snort  trips  around  the  city  are  supplied  free  by 
the  manager  of  the  Sontag  Hotd;  on  longer  trips  their  pay  (for  English- 
speaking  men)  is  ¥3  a  day;  they  find  their  own  food  and  will  cook  that  of 
their  employer. 

Shops  and  Curios  (comp.  p.  cxii).  Both  are  inferior  in  nuinber  and  quality 
to  those  of  Japan.  Koreans  carry  on  commerce  in  a  surprisingly  petty  wayt 
and  their  artistic  sense  is  of  a  low  order.  There  are  no  fine  shops  or  big  dis- 
plays. Certain  of  the  wrought  silver  articles  are  quaint  and  in  a  way  attrac- 
tive. Perhaps  the  best  assortment  is  displayed  at  the  small  shop  with  the 
high-sounding  title  of  Korean  Silver  &  Qold  Art  Palace  (English  spoken)  in  Chonr 
no  (PI.  C,  2)near  the  Big  BelL  The  silver  finger-rings  with  ideographs  repre- 
senting Long  Life,  Good  Luck,  etc.,  are  cheap  (30-50  sen  each).  Large  arti- 
clea  are  sold  by  weight,  and  a  big  percentage  added  for  workmanship.  Prices 
are  high  and  are  supposed  to  be  fixed.  The  Korean  Brass- Work  indudes 
cookizig  utendla  in  many  ahayea,  caTid\sa\AQ>5a,^wt-bowls  (good  ones  from 
*5  to¥6.50  per  dozen),  tea-pota,  etc.  \^>av>5flu\tW^a^^^^^.^A» designs 
wanted,  hold  the  articles  aaaAnattVxe\ia\vtloxT>Qa«^^^ 


Ctarioa.  SEOUL  ^.  Route.    733 

liiem  sent  to  the  hotel).  Numerous  brass  shape  duster  near  the  W.  Gate. 
The  best  ware  is  heavy,  is  beaten  up  with  hanimers,  and  is  made  in  the  An 
Sung  district  of  Kyong^ktn  Province.  The  old  heirlooms  are  the  most  desir- 
able. 

The  Brasfr^rimmed  Chests  make  desirable  somvenirs  and  are  much  sought 
by  travelers.  The  best  (usually  old  ones)  are  made  of  hornbeam,  chestnut, 
or  the  wood  of  the  Chinese  Pagoda  tree.  The  cheaper  ones,  of  iHne  veneered 
with  peach  or  maple,  warp  readily,  and  the  bedt  of  the  former  withstand 
but  indifferently  the  steam  heat  of  American  homes.  The  finest  cabinets  are 
sometimes  made  of  rosewood,  handsomely  trimmed;  good  specimens  cost 
from  ¥25  to  ¥50.  Women  use  them  for  their  clothing.  Cash-Boxes  vary  in 
price  (good  ones  come  frozaPyinff-Yang)  according  to  size,  age,  condition, 
and  the  weight  of  the  brass  trimmings.  Small  ones  can  be  bought  for  ¥2-^5; 
large  ones,  ¥25  to  ¥50.  The  Opbn  Cabdtbts  with  drawers,  used  as  medicine- 
chests  and  for  writing-materials,  cost  from  ¥30  to  ¥50.  Pearl  Inlaid  Cabi- 
nets (best  from  Chyolla  Province) ,  made  of  fir  inlaid  with  madreperl  in  var 
rious  designs  (turtles,  phoenixes,  bamboos,  flowers.and  symbols) ,  are  desirable 
(cost  from  ¥15  to  ¥200  according  to  size)  only  when  old  and  well-lacquered, 
as  the-  insets  soon  drop  out  of  newly  made  pieces.  Red-laoquered  Dbbbs* 
iNO-BoxEs  cost  from  ¥5  to  ¥15.  The  fantastic  brass  trimmings  in  numerous 
quaint  designs;  the  broad  butterfly  hinges,  great  hasps,  and  padlocks,  are 
what  make  the  furniture  attractive,  since  the  interior  arrangement  of  some 
of  the  pieces  is  unsuited  to  foreign  needs.  Articles  can  be  bought  cheaper  in 
winter  (when  there  are  but  few  tourists)  than  in  summer,  when  there  is  a 
steady  aemand.  Travelers  may  wish  to  remember  that  there  is  an  export 
duty  of  5%  on  furniture;  an  import  duty  into  the  United  States  of  35%; 
that  eJI  goods  destined  for  the  latter  coimtry  must  be  accompanied  by  a 
Consular  Invoice  and  a  Bill  of  Health  (cost,  ¥5.02) ;  that  packing  (and  in- 
surance) charges  are  to  be  added  to  purchases,  and  that  the  freight  rate  to 
England  or  Aimerica  is  about  $10  (£2)  per  ton  of  40  cubic  ft.  These  addi- 
tions make  the  chests  cost  practically  double  before  they  can  be  delivered  at 
home.  A  good  plan  is  to  make  a'  pencil  drawing  of  any  particular  chest  de* 
sired,  buy  the  brass  trimmings  and  fitments  (easily  removed;  cost,  ¥4  to 
¥6  for  the  largest  cabinet) ;  then  get  a  brass  lock  (the  best  are  about  6  in. 
long,  are  tubiDar;  cost  ¥2,  and  are  of  simple  but  ingenious  construction) 
and  have  a  much  handsomer  chest  of  better  seasoned  wood  made  at  home, 
and  the  fittings  put  on  it. 

On  the  other  hand,  brassware  and  other  stuff  may  be  packed  inside  cabi- 
nets for  shipment.  While  good  spedimens  may  sometimes  be  picked  up  in  the 
numerous  second-hand  shops,  these  are  usuddy  such  filthy  and  squalid  dens, 
cluttered  up  with  all  manner  of  rubbish,  that  they  are  to  be  avoided.  No 
chests  should  be  bought  and  sent  home  without  being  first  fumigated.  Plague, 
smallpox,  scarlet  fever,  cholera,  and  other  dread  visitations  are  sometimes  epi- 
demic among  the  Koreans,  and  when  a  man  dies  his  belongings  are  often  hus- 
tled into  a  junk-shop  and  sold.  English  is  spoken  in  few  if  any  of  the  Bsitive 
shops;  prices  are  flexible,  and  tiie  'boy'  who  accompanies  one  as  interpreter 
is  certam  to  make  a  fat '  squeeze'  on  purchases.  Foreigniars  have  given  the 
name  Cabinet  Street  to  a  thoroughfare  near  the  Legation  Quarter  where 
chests  and  brassware  are  sold.  The  best  and  most  salisf acto^  assortment 
(fixed  prices,  etc.)  will  perhaps  be  found  at  the  Kavanauah  Shoten  (Eng- 
hsh)  in  Taihei-machi.  Here  also  may  be  seen  collections  of 

Matting  asKl  Ceramics.  The  formier  is  sometimes  made  in  artistic  pat- 
terns; the  latter  is  of  a  low  order.  The  paper  fans  (12  sen)  make  cheap  and 
attractive  souvenirs.  The  decorations  are  customarily  the  Ydiig  and  Yin 
(p.  726).  Fans  are  covered  with  oil  and  are  dipped  in  water  to  heighten  the 
cool  effect.  The  buff,  translucent,  vellum-like  Korean  paper  of  which  they 
are  made  is  remarkable  for  durabUity,  toughness  and  impermeability.  The 
best  is  made  from  the  bast  of  the  paper-mulber^  tree.    Strips  make'  good 
substitutes  for  rain-coats  and  are  useful  for'wrapping  cameras  and  other  k>er- 
ishable  c^jects.  In  some  native  iiouses  the  almost  indestructible  paper  is 
used  instead  of  carpet;  it  bears  washing  and  takes  a  high  polish  when  Tubb«d 
dry.  When  sever^  thicknesses  are  beaten  together  it  aerv«a  lot  \.rocc^K&  wA 
strong  boxes.  —  The  Koretat  Types  (60  sen  each) ,  made  ol  ya>d^  «q&t»«^^ 
reaeaiible  Mexican  rag^gune  and  portray  the  oonuoioxiBXty  uvwa.ist^'t^^"''^ 
manaer.  Id  buyiMig  the  pioturesque  but  olumBy  woodau  aqiboU,  Cit  ^X^  d»ax^-~ 


734    Route  46.  SEOUL  Keijd. 

tier  embrcndered  native  women's  shoes,  it  is  well  to  bear  in  mind  that  a  spe> 
cially  thick  sock  must  be  worn  with  them.  Inlaid  Iron'- Work  is  popular  Mid 
sometimes  attractive.  Very  thin  sheets  of  silver  foil  are  hammered  on  an 
iron  surface  until  it  resembles  niello-work.  It  rusts  unless  it  is  kept  oiled. 
Certain  of  the  peddlers  who  frequent  l^e  road  to  the  Sontag  Hold  have  the 
instincts  of  brigands,  and  ask  several  times  as  much  for  thinga  as  they  ex- 
pect  to  receive.  Care  should  be  exercised  in  making  offers.  The  pear-shaped 
chunks  of  amber  which  they  claim  come  from  a. northern  province,  and 
which  in  reality  come  from  Germany,  can  be  bought  for  ¥1-3  if  ¥5-10  ars 
Mked.  The  supp^  is  unlimited. 

Banks  (comp  p.  xxiii),  where  money  can  be  exchanged  and  drafts,  etc.. 
cashed:  Bank  of  Chosen;  English  spoken.  —  Dai-tehi  Qinkd.  The  usual 
exchange  for  American  paper  or  gold  is  2  for  1;  a  little  less  (because  of  dif- 
ference in  value)  for  pounds  sterling,  marks,  francs,  etc.  The  bank  will 
sometimes  nve  100  roubles  for  ¥102  (which  is  better  than  one  can  get  in 
Japan) .  —  Consulates  are  maintained  by  Qrekt  Britain,  the  United  States, 
Germanv,  France,  Belgium,  Russia,  etc.  Most  of  them  are  near  the  W. 
Gate,  within  a  few  min.  walk  of  the  Sontag  Hotel.  —  Post-  and  T^^^nb- 
Offices  in  various  parts  of  the  city  (usually  in  the  same  building).  Mails  for 
Europe  and  America  should  be  marked  *Vi4  Siberia,'  if  time  be  a  eonsidera- 
tion.  Postage  same  as  fr(»n  Japan.  The  hotel  manager  will  take  chaxge  of 
mail-matter  and  telegrams.  Korea  now  belongs  to  the  International  Postal 
Union.  The  Police  Staticni,  the  sometime  P'o^O'chong^  or  Bunlar-oaptur- 
ing  Office,'  is  near  the  Nam-san  PtMic  Garden  (H.  C,  3).  —  Tobacco  and 
Cigars  are  cheaper  than  in  Japan.  The  business  is  largely  in  the  hands  d 
Greeks.  There  are  several  foreign  Churches  in  the  dty.  See  the  notices  in 
the  hotel  lobby. 

Korean  Dances  (insipid  and  wearisome)  can  be  arranged  for  with  the  aid 
of  the  hotel  manager.  The  gesang  (similar  to  the  Japanese  geiaha)  are  not 
always  of  the  highest  class.  —  Newspapers.  The  SeotdPress^  a  daily  (morn- 
ing) newspaper  (edited  and  published  by  Mr.  leoh  Yamagata)  in  the  £n|^ish 
language  (20  sen  a  copy),  contains  Associated  Press  matter  and  local  news, 
etc.,  of  interest  to  travelers.  There  are  a  number  of  Japanese  newspapers 
printed  in  the  capital,  and  20  or  more  in  the  peninsula.  —  Physicians  and 
dentists.  For  the  permanent  addresses  of  these  consult  the  advertisements 
in  the  Seoul  Frees.  The  American  Hospital,  opposite  the  Nandaimon  riy. 
station,  sells  foreign  medicines,  etc.  —  The  Korea  Branch  of  the  Japan 
Tourist  Bureau  is  located  at  Yongsan,  in  the  Railway  Bureau. 

Seoul  (pronounced  sowlj  or  8ov>-o}d)j  an  elliptical  walled  city 
(pop.  300,000)  on  the  N.  side  (2  M.  distant)  of  the  swift  Han 
Rivev  (120  ft.  above  it  and  35  M.  from  its  mouth),  in  the  heart 
( KyonQ'kwi  Province)  of  the  ancient  Kingdom  of  Korea  (lat. 
S?*"  35'  N.,  and  long.  127°  0'  E.  from  Greenwich),  is  one  of  the 
most  picturesque  and  romantically  situated  mediaeval  capitals 
of  Eastern  Asia.  It  was  founded  (in  1392)  by  the  Emperor  Yo 
Taijo  under  the  name  of  Han-yang  C  Fortress  on  the  Han '),  but 
it  is  generally  known  as  Seovl  ('capital '),  the  Japanese  equi- 
valent for  which  is  Keijo.  As  the  political,  intellectual,  educa- 
tional, and  commercial  center  of  the  country,  with  (so-called) 
palaces,,  art,  and  industrial  museums,  libraries,  botanical  and 
zo6logical  gardens,  colleges,  banks,  electric  lights,  street-cars, 
and  telephones,  and  many  additional  adjuncts  of  a  modem  ana 
progressive  metropolis,  it  is  Korea  to  most  foreigners,  since  it 
represents  in  the  large  everything  Korean;  much  as  T6ky5  re- 
presents N.  Japan.  Eot  up^faid  oi%  ^xvtMries  it  was  the  home 
of  the  (XincuhmeAovm\[,YsiVd»si.^^^^ 
seen  more  maladmimsUa^aoTi,  «^^^^^i^^\^h^^2^SSfS^ 
ForalmoBt  that  lengtYi  oi  time\\-^^^^^^^^^^^^«.«^»«*^ 


Sired  Sights.  SEOUL  46.  RtnUe.    736 

that  choked  the  national  ambition  and  sapped  the  lif  e-bkxxl  of 
the  people  —  a  poisonous  blight  on  all  progress  and  civiliza- 
tion. To-day  it  is  the  center  whence  all  benefits  and  reforms 
radiate.  The  Japanese  Governor-General  dwells  here,  and 
from  the  Residency  the  affairs  of  the  nation  are  administered. 
The  situation  of  the  old  capital  (2  by  2  M.),  in  a  broad  valley 
(5  M.  long  by  3  broad)  surrounded  by  rugged  hills  that  tower 
in  somber  grandeur  above  it,  is  very  attractive.  From  the 
highest  of  these  (N.)  hills,  the  San-kak-sanj  or  Three-peaked 
Mountain  (2,270  ft.),  —  which  foreigners  know  as  the  Cock's 
Comb,  —  one  may  enjoy  a  magnificent  panorama  of  the  wide 
city  with  its  mushroom-like  houses  and  the  lordly  Han  flowing 
broadly  to  the  sea.  From  a  military  viewpoint  the  city  is  con- 
sidered strong  both  in  itself  and  in  its  stem  outposts.  Arid  and 
forbidding  as  the  hills  look  in  winter,  spring  and  summer  find 
them  clothed  in  delicate  green  enlivened  here  and  there  by 
great  blotches  of  heliotrope,  azalea,  fragrant  honeysuckle,  and 
(in  season)  the  beautiful  blossoms  of  the  plum,  the  peach,  and 
the  cherry.  Many  poplar  trees,  Chinese  pmes  ( Pima  sinenna), 
and  flowering  shrubs  thrive  in  the  warm  pockets  of  the  lulls  — 
invisible  to  the  eye  until  one  approaches  closely  —  while  at 
their  feet  the  lotus-pools  (in  Aug.)  are  worth  going  far  to  see. 
The  mt.  to  the  S.  of  the  capital,  ikfofc-mie-saw,  long  served  as  a 
signal-station  on  which  bonfire  messages  were  received  from 
the  southern  provinces. . 

For  purposes  of  civic  administration  the  city  is  divided  into 
five  quarters:  Tosho  (East),  Seishd  (West),  Hokushd  (North) 
Nansho  (South),  and  Chusho  (Middle).  The  56,000  or  more 
Japanese  who  add  life,  energy,  and  color,  and  the  2100  Chinese 
who  impart  an  odor  not  strictly  one  of  sanctity,  dwell  in  the 
Honmachi  district  (the  Chinkokai  of  the  Koreans)  in  the  S. 
quarter.  The  Legation  Quarter  (Chong-dong)  with  its  many 
trees,  its  ugly  hybrid  houses,  its  park-like  gardens,  and  elevated 
sites,  stands  at  the  W.  extremity  of  the  city,  inside  tiie  wfdl, 
near  the  W.  Gate  and  the  Seidadmon  Station;  many  of  the  300 
or  more  foreign  residents  dwell  here  and  just  outside  the  wall, 
beyond  which  the  country  drops  away  abruptly  and  affords 
pleasing  and  far-reaching  views  over  tlie  deep  and  wide  inter- 
vening valley.  Around  the  city  proper,  inclosing  intramural 
Seouly  climbing  up  and  down  the  precipitous  slopes  and  laying 
its  brown,  weather-beaten,  and  sinuous  lengths  over  the  hills 
like  some  great  dragon,  is  the  battlemented  wall  described 
hereinafter.  A  long,  wide  (100  ft.)  street,  Choivmo  (pron.Chonp-- 
no)  or  Bia  Bell  St.  (Jap.  Shdro)y  divides  the  city  practically  m 
halves  and  leads  from  the  E.  to  the  W.  Gate,  then  far  into  the 
country,  through  extrarmural  Seoul  at  either  side.  It  i&  cbsrs!^ 
tially  the  main  street  of  Korea,  for  here  one  may  oXiW!^^  VSbftxsAi- 
tJves  and  their  w&ya  to  the  best  advantage.  ScatXAt^  fd^ssD% 
j'ts  length  are  some  of  the  chief  'Bights'  and  t\i<ei >d«&  o*^  ^^ 


736    Baide  46.  SEOUL  Strei^  Sid/Hi. 

Kdroan  shops,  most  of  the  latter  meaA  and  tawdry  and  out  ol 
keeping  with  the  width  of  the  thoroughfare.  The  majority  ol 
the  shops  are  dedicated  to  a  trivial  commerce  in  ironware  as 
crude  as  that  which  Vulcan  forged,  in  junk  of  various  kinds; 
horn  and  tortoise-shell  goggles  much  sUSected  by  the  aU^ged 
literati  and  official  class;  coarse  earthenware;  cheap  native- 
made  knives  and  pipes ;  paper-goods  and  matting ;  tin  lamps  and 
candle-sticks;  cumbersome  saddles  with  green  and  red  leather 
flaps  embossed  with  brass  rosettes;  and  imported  textiles  whose 
colors  maintain  a  perpetual  warfare.  Up  and  down  this  bril- 
liant, sunlit  metropolitan  thoroughfare  flows  a  steady  and 
kaleidoscopic  stream  of  native  life  which  contrasts  strangely 
with  the  modem  electric  street-cars  and  other  evidences  of 
Western  progress.  Tall,  top-knotted  Koreans  with  goatees, 
fly-trap  hats,  baggy  clothes,  and  clogs  like  miniature  dug-outs; 
lazing  Yang-hcma  strolling  or  being  carried  in  pcdanquins 
of  a  type  3  centuries  old;  olive-skinned  and  oftentimes  bare- 
breasted  women  clad  in  t^e  costume  peiculiar  to  the  capital; 
huge  creaking  wooden  carts  filled  with  brushwood  or  produce 
and  as  antiquated  as  those  which  Noah  used,  —  these  and  a 
host  of  queer  things  attract  the  eye  and  make  the  street  highly 
interesting  to  strangers.  The  houses  are  poor  and  monotonous, 
but  the  surging  procession  of  bego^gled  officials  and  sweating 
coolies,  slobbering  bulls  and  squealing  ponies,  wrangling  dogs 
and  dirty  children,  redeem  them  and  impart  to  the  street  a 
strange  blend  of  gayety  and  sobriety,  of  modernity  and  medi- 
evalism, of  the  Orient  and  the  Occident. 

Paralleling  Chon-no  on  the  S.  are  the  ruins  of  a  sometime 
crystal  brook,  now  defiled  in  a  loathsome  manner  and  spanned 
by  a  number  of  archaic  stone  bridges,  one  known  as  the 
Chicken  Bridge,  because  the  chicken-market  is  held  near  it. 
On  the  banks  of  this  fetid  stream  scores  of  the  native  women 
work  out  their  destiny  by  washing  their  lords'  f rowsv  and  vol- 
uminous clothes;  pounding  the  hard  bundles  with  wooden 
rollers  on  stones  until  a  fine  gloss  like  that  of  mercerized  cotton 
is  produced.  They  are  characteristic  features  not  only  of  Seovi 
but  of  all  Korea,  for  wherever  there  is  a  runnel  or  a  festering 
pool  there  women  drudges  foregather,  ladle  up  the  malodorous 
water,  roll  the  yellowish-white  garments  into  sizable  bundles, 
then  batter  them  into  cleanliness.  The  sound  of  their  tapping 
clubs  is  a  familiar  one  in  the  'Land  of  the  Morning  Calm.'  A 
little  farther  to  the  S.  stretches  one  of  the  chief  Japanese  thor- 
oughfares, the  Honcho-dori  (Main  St.;  also  called  Honmachi), 
narrower,  busier,  cleaner,  more  cheerful  and  inviting  than  the 
Korean  street,  but  less  interesting  because  more  modem.  It 
curves  gracefully  Tound  lYieV^aa^  ol «» small  bit  of  transplanted 
TokyQ  called  Nam-san  (Jj^ani^^^,«i^^^^'Jy^^^^^ral  im- 
posing governmental  b\u\dm?,a.  <io^\cv^>aA  waaxv^'O^^^ 


The  Korean  Pony.  SEOUL  46.  Route,    737 

garden^  and  hereabout  Japan  blazes  forth  in  all  its  riot  of  color 
and  picturesqueness.  In  no  quarter  of  Seoul  is  the  stress  of 
Occidental  civilization  and  progress  so  apparent  as  here,  and 
from  daylight  until  dusk  long  lines  of  busy  people,  postmen  on 
bicycles,  delivery  carts  being  pedaled  along  by  bareheaded 
boys,  straining  bulls,  foreigners,  Japanese,  Koreans,  Manchus, 
and  Cantonese  pulse  through  its  restricted  channel.  The  most 
objectionable  and  savagely  noisy  segments  of  the  daily  pro- 
cession are  the  strapped,  muzzled,  and  contumacious  Korean 
ponies,  against  which  the  traveler  should  always  be  on  his  guard. 
They  rarely  lose  a  chance  to  bite  the  unsuspecting  stranger 
and  they  are  equally  diligent  with  their  heels  or  fore  feet. 

The  Korean  Pony  (prototype  of  the  Japanese  pony)  is  one  of  the  most 
salient  features  of  Korea.  'The  breed  is  peculiar  to  it.  The  animals  used  for 
burdens  are  all  stallions,  from  10  to  12  hands  high,  well  formed,  and  singu- 
larly strong,  carrying  from  160  to  200  lbs.  30  M.  a  day,  week  after  week,  on 
sorry  food.  They  are  most  desperate;  squealing  and  trumpeting  on  all  occa^ 
flions,  attacking  every  pony  they  meet  on  the  road,  never  becoming  recon- 
ciled to  each  other  even  on  a  long  Journey,  and  in  their  fury  ignoring  their 
loads,  which  are  often  smashed  to  pieces.  Their  savagery  makes  it  neces- 
sary to  have  a  mapu  for  every  pony.  At  the  inn  stables  they  are  not  only 


finds  vent  in  hyena-like  yells,  abortive  snaps,  apd  attempts  to  swing  their 
hind  legs  round.  They  are  never  allowed  to  lie  down,  and  very  rarely  to 
drink  water,  and  then  only  when  freely  salted.  Their  nostrils  are  all  sht  in 
an  attempt  to  improve  upon  nature  and  give  them  better  wind.  They  are 
fed  three  times  a  day  on  orown  slush  as  hot  as  they  can  drink  it,  composed 
of  beans,  chopped  miUet-stalks,  rice-husks,  and  bran,  with  the  water  in 
which  they  have  been  boiled.  Ever}-  attempt  at  friendliness  is  resented  with 
teeth  and  heels.  When  descending  a  steep  hill  the  mapus  hold  the  ponies  by 
their  tails! ' 

HoNCHO-DORi  is  as  innocent  of  sidewalks  as  a  countrv  lane, 
but  facing  it,  beside  the  many  branch  stores  from  OsckKa  and 
Tokyo,  are  the  subK)fficesof  two  of  the  greatest  corporations  of 
the  world :  The  Standard  Oil  Co.  of  New  York,  and  the  Mitsui 
Bussan  Kaisha  of  T5kyo.  At  its  junction  with  Nandaimon- 
dori  stands  the  costly  (2  million  yen)  and  imposing  Chosen 
Ginko  (Bank  of  Korea),  completed  in  1912  and  fomung,  with 
its  splendidly  massive  gray  granite  walls  and  glistening  copper- 
sheathed  domes,  a  landmai^  in  the  vicinity.  It  is  the  newest 
and  finest  of  all  the  city  banks,  and  once  within  its  spacious 
and  elaborate  interior  the  visitor  finds  it  difficult  to  convince 
himself  that  he  is  not  in  New  York.  The  immediate  neighbor- 
hood is  the  liveliest  in  the  city,  and  the  hucksters  who  trot 
along  the  street  uttering  their  strange  cries  add  to  the  imiversal 
din.  Here  the  Japanese  demonstrate  their  right  to  be  the  rul- 
ing race  by  intelligence  and  progress,  and  man^^  Koreans  clus- 
ter as  near  as  possible  to  them  for  the  protection  they  feel  tfi 
assured  them. 

From  each  of  the  two  great  arteries  mentioned  tYiet^T^i^AXJaiy 
a  labyrmtb  of  narrow ,  tortuous  streets  fLaiik^  Ao^  'Sacj^ndsii 
JapMpese,  aad  CMaeee  ebopB  and  factories.  li(o\,  a  !.«<«  ^\^^- 


738    Rmde  46,  SEOUL  Walls  and  GoUl 

city  byways  are  still  unpavedi  dirty  allevs  whose  emphatic 
quality  during  the  dry  season  is  dust,  and  during  and  after  the 
rainy  season  sticky  mud.  Most  of  tnem  are  concrete  illu8tr&- 
tions  of  the  fact  that  when  left  to  themselves  the  Koreans  be- 
come very  soiled  children  of  the  soil,  and  dwell  in  a  general 
abominableness  repulsive  to  Westerners.  The  slimy  and  fetid 
runlets  which  ooze  past  their  rickety  doors  and  the  microbic 
refuse-heaps  piled  high  beneath  the  low  straw  eaves  sp^k  no 
language  to  them.  —  The  broad,  well-paved  street  which  goes 
past  tiie  Nandaimon  Gate  and  Station^  and  connects  the  city 
with  the  new  Japanese  suburb  of  Ryuzan  Qinked  also  by  rly. 
and  trolley),  is  Furuichircho;  cityward  from  the  gate  to  its  in- 
tersection with  Honcho-dori,  and  later  with  Chorirno,  it  is  called 
NandmmoTirddri,  It  has  been  recently  widened  and  paved,  and 
it  is  significant  of  what  the  chief  thoroughfares  bf  the  metropo- 
lis will  be  a  few  years  hence. 

The  Legation  Quarter  (PI.  B,  3)  is  perhaps  the  healthiest  of 
the  city  —  a  blend  of  town  and  country.  Most  of  the  houses 
stand  back  in  fine  spacious  gardens  reached  through  lanes  be- 
tween high  £md  massive  walls.  In  spring  and  summer  one  ib 
awtUcened  early  by  the  strident  chattering  and  wrangling  of 
magpies;  the  melodious  call  of  the  cuckoo;  the  incessant  twit- 
tering aiud  chirping  of  small  birds  and  insects;  the  hoarse  cidling 
of  geese;  the  crowing  of  a  myriad  cockerels;  and  not  unfre- 
quently  by  the  grunting  or  squealing  of  the  young  bears  of 
which  the  manager  of  the  SorUag  Hotel  is  fond  and  which  he 
captures  and  chams  up  in  the  hotel  yard.  The  entire  section  is 
embowered  in  beautiful  fiowers  and  poplars,  PauLownia  imperi' 
dliSj  pines,  and  other  trees,  and  the  freshness  and  beauty  of  the 
early  mornings  are  inspiring. 

The  Walls  and  Gates.  Few  objects  in  the  Far  East  are  more 
impressive  or  more  distinctively  mediaeval  than  the  crumbling, 
crenelated  wall  (Korean,  song;  Jap.  heki)y  which  is  25-40  ft. 
high  and  which  nms  for  14  M.  like  a  girdle  about  the  inner 
city.   No  less  picturesque  are  the  eight  huge  pavilioned  gate- 
ways which  pierce  it,  and  the  great  arches  that  span  the  streams 
crossed  in  its  course.    The  ISmperor  Yi  Taijo  caus^  it  to  be 
built  soon  after  he  fixed  his  new  capital  here  in  1392,  and  his- 
tory records  that  200,000  men  were  drawn  in  from  the  different 
provinces  to  work  on  it.   Like  the  Great  Wall  of  China  (from 
which  it  manifestly  was  copied)  it  stops  not  at  mts.,  but  climbs 
them  sturdily  (to  a  height  of  1130  ft.  at  the  N.),  coiling  about 
them  like  some  sinuous  and  sinister  dragon;  followmg  the 
irre^arities  of  the  ridges  before  dipping  into  some  deep  valley 
or  disappearing  behind  some  spur  later  to  reappear  on  a  higher, 
projecting  ridge.  Small  bqcUoi^  have  be<^  demolished  to  make 
way  for  the  expanaon  oi  tJcie  modkfeTDL  ^\\.S'i,  ^^<sc%  «se:  Calling 
ihwatd,  and  still  othere  aie  \iafcd  a»  lw>V^^>i5Q&  ^  ^^siw^^if^ 
ilowera  and  vegetables  by  t\i06fiiN?\xci«fc^^^^^si»>^^'«^>^v«»»M^ 


Nam  Tai  Moon,  SEOUL  46.  RauU.    739 

it ;  but  the  remainder  is  preserved  in  its  pristine  crudity.  What 
it  has  lost  in  strength  it  has  gained  in  picturesqueness,  for  long 
stretches  are  almost  covered  with  clinging  ivy,  and  where  the 
accumulated  moss  of  centuries  spots  its  sides  it  makes  a  strik- 
ing feature  in  a  striking  landscape.  From  below  it  looks  like  a 
solid  and  formidable  mass  of  cyclopean  masonry,  for  numerous 
direct  and  oblique  embrasures  pierce  it  and  recall  the  time 
when  bold  archers  trod  its  high  parapets  and  launched  feathered 
shafts  and  javelins  over  the  ramparts  at  advancing  foes. 
Through  these  loopholes  one  gets  entrancing  views  of  distant 
valleys  and  mts.  and  from  the  top  still  wider  ones.  The  wall 
proper  is  12-15  ft.  through  and  consists  of  a  bank  of  earth  faced 
with  masonry,  of  varying  heights.  The  stones  which  form  the 
outer  veneer  are  about  3  ft.  sq.  and  15  in.  thick,  and  are 
crowned  by  cut  granite  blocks  or  copingHstones  grooved  in  the 
center,  set  on  a  slight  incline,  and  measuring  approximately 
5  ft.  wide,  12-15  ft.  long,  and  from  6  to  36  in.  thi^.  The  trav- 
eler with  time  to  spare  will  not  regret  an  early  morning  stroll 
along  the  crest  of  this  ancient  fortification  built  a  hundred  yrs. 
before  Columbus  discovered  America.  That  part  near  the  W. 
Gate,  5  min.  from  the  hotel,  is  easily  accessible.  Ascend  be- 
tween the  gate  and  the  police-box  at  uie  right.  There  are  none 
to  question  or  to  demand  fees. 

The  Gates  (Korean,  moon;  Jap.  m>on)  are  huge,  cumbersome 
affairs,  heavily  bossed  and  strengthened  with  massive  and 
badly  rusted  iron  sheathing,  strips,  and  bolts,  swimg  on  huge 
pivots  let  into  soffits  above  and  below,  —  after  the  manner  of 
old  Spanish-Moorish  seignorial  houses,  —  and  set  in  solid 
arches  of  cut  gray  granite  blocks,  some  of  them  10  ft.  long  and 
almost  as  thick.  They  are  interesting  specimens  of  the  crude 
workmanship  of  the  early  Choseneae  —  more  picturesque  than 
handsome,  and  in  this  progressive  20th  cent,  more  ornamental 
than  usefiil.  Surmounting  the  arches  are  massive,  two-storied, 
quadrilateral,  temple-like  structures,  with  uptilted  tiled  roofs, 
enriched  with  a  maze  of  faded  compoimd  brackets  and  din^y 
polychromatic  decorations  —  conspicuous  among  which  in 
white  and  black,  is  the  Life  Principle  already  refeired  to.  An- 
ciently they  were  used  for  the  barbaric  dramas  enacted  by 
masked  musicians,  sorcerers,  an(^  the  like  whenever  the  Emperor 
went  abroad  or  visited  extra-mural  Seoul,  Certain  of  the  gates 
have  grandiloquent  titles  that  accord  illy  with  their  dilapidated 
appearance;  as,  'Benevolence/ 'Bright  Amiability.'  'Exalted 
Politeness,'  'Gate  of  Elevated  Humanity,'  and  the  like. 

The  Nandaimon  (Korean,  Nam  Tai  Moon),  or  S.  Gate^  niear 
the  rly.  station  of  the  same  name  (PI.  B,  3),is  the  most  attra(>- 
tive  and  the  best  preserved.  Like  certain  others  it  is  reseiyeci 
for  pedestrians  onl)  ,>and  one  will  scarcely  ffee  8^  Tucsce  \A&^9a*^ 
eague  sight  than  the  stream  of  variegated  mimaiutij  V)i[ka£\ra^»0i^ 
tbrougb  it  on  a  bright  day,  —  Korean  men  Vxi  ^)Ea^  «^^ 


740    Route  id.  SEOUL  NorOi  Poioos. 

women  in  green  garments;  Chinese  in  blue  gowns;  Japanese  in 
sundry  vivid  colors  and  conventional  black;  and  native  chil- 
dren m  their  brown  *  birthday'  suits.  —  The  archway  is  im- 
mensely solid  (39  ft.  deep;  16  wide  and  20  high),  iron-studded 
and  with  the  ear-marks  of  great  antiquity.  The  lower  stone 
wall,  the  electric  li^t  shafts,  and  the  parterres  are  modem. 
The  superstructure  is  in  only  tolerable  repair  and  is  inacessible 
to  visitors.  Those  interested  in  seeing  one  of  the  pavilions  are 
recommended  to  the 

Seidaimon  {Su  Tai  Moon)^  or  W.  Gate  (PL  B,  2),  for  cen- 
turies the  entrance  to  the  capital  for  travelers  from  Chemidpo, 
The  huge  swinging  gates  (smaller  and  more  time-stained  than 
the  Nandaimon)  are  good  examples  of  early  Korean  workman- 
ship, and  the  painted,  winged  ti^r  below  the  arch  expresses 
the  native  idea  of  decorative  art.  By  passing  between  the  gate- 
way and  the  policeman's  box  at  the  right,  then  ascending  and 
bearing  round  to  the  left,  one  quickly  reaches  the  ramshackle 
superstructure,  with  its  faded  decorations  and  j^neral  un- 
cleanliness.  The  view  from  the  parapet  of  the  wall  is  extensive. 
Not  very  long  ago,  when  the  Big  Bell  sounded  the  requiem  of  the 
setting  sun,  ^1  the  city  gates  were  closed,  and  the  dilatory  and 
lyckless  wight  who  reached  one  of  them  a  minute  late  might 
beat  on  their  knurled  surfaces  until  his  knuckles  bled  and  the 
tigers  came  and  carried  him  off,  for  nary  a  soul  would  open  them 
as  much  as  an  inch.  At  that  period  the  wall  was  intact,  but  de- 
spite this  tigers  and  leopards  leaped  it  and  frequently  took  a 
nightly  quota  from  among  the  trembling  citizens  of  the  inclosure. 
The  North  Palace  (Kyong-pok  Koong)^  in  the  N.W.  quarter 
(PI.  B,  2)  at  the  foot  of  the  frowning  PooA;  Han  HiUy  comprises 
a  group  of  over-decorated  and  practically  deserted  buildings 
(said  to  date  from  the  15th  cent.)  in  an  immense  neglected 
waUed  inclosure  5  min.  walk  N.  of  Chon-no  St,  (W.  of  the  big 
bell)  and  15  min.  from  the  Sontag  Hotel,  The  entrance  is  at  the 
top  of  the  wide,  unpaved  Kokamonrddriy  \  M.  from  Chon-fio, 
A  Line  of  barracks  flanks  it  on  the  left,  and  several  new  adminis- 
tration buildings  on  the  right.  A  guide  is  unneceeeary  and  no 
fees  are  demanded  beyond  the  ticket  (5  sen),  which  must  be 
purchased  at  the  oflSce  at  the  left  of  the  gate  and  given  up  there 
on  leaving.  The  crude,  inartistic,  crumbling  structures  are  of 
little  interest  to  whosoever  has  seen  architecture  of  a  similar 
but  much  superior  style  in  Japan.   The  badly  mutilated  and 
hideous  Dogs  of  Fo  (gifts  from  a  Chinese  Emperor)  which 
stand  on  pedestals  near  the  outer  gate  were  evidently  fashioned 
with  dull  tools  by  an  unimaginative  workman.    The  wide 
Kokamon  Gate  is  of  grandiose  proportions  and  is  pierced  by 
triple  stone  arches  each  mth  massive,  heavily-studded  docra 
almost  covered  with  iroti  Mid\3itoti'i.^.  TV^a  ^srodi^iron  looks  are 
the  only  things  worth  \oo\dn^  aX..  T^^^m^^^Vi^^i^^issMA 
(funiMian&)  ot  the  wood  ceVSn^  ol  ^Ct»  t««x.xi;^«^V«^1fc«i«w. 


The  Keikaird.  SEOUL  ^.  Rouie,    741 

emblems  of  peace  and  good  government.  —  The  Main  Palace 
stands  at  the  foot  of  a  succession  of  wide,  grass-grown,  flagged 
inclosures  marked  by  faded  gates  and  indifferently  carved 
stone  balustrades.  The  stone  animals  in  the  act  of  peering  into 
the  verdure-choked  runnel  of  the  second  compound  are  curious. 
The  3d  gate  gives  ingress  to  an  inclosure  with  a  two-storied 
ancestrd^ temple  rising  from  a  double  plinth  encircled  by  sculp- 
tured stone  fences  showing  traces  of  art.  The  compound  brack- 
ets of  the  eaves,  the  huge  sloping  roof,  and  the  general  exterior 
decorations  are  mediocre.  A  vacant  shrine  stands  within.  The 
tall  Indian-red  pillars  support  a  ceiling  smudged  by  the  incense 
of  ages  and  covered  with  tawdry  decorations.  Passing  through 
two  more  inclosures,  each  with  its  deserted  shrines,  then 
through  a  low  gateway  at  the  left,  we  cross  a  stone  bridge  flung 
across  a  lily-  and  lotus-flecked  moat  to 

The  Keikair5,  known  variously  as  the  Summer  Pavilion, 
Hall  of  Congratulations,  and  Audience  Hall,  a  draughty,  quad- 
rilateral, dilapidated  structure  supported  by  8  rows  of  6  each 
square  and  round  grav  granite  columns  with  metal  sheaths  in- 
stead of  capitals.  A  oeautiful  lotus-pond  stretches  beyond  to 
a  pine-clad  strip  with  many  flowering  trees  and  shrubs.  Water 
completely  surrounds  the  edifice,  like  certain  of  the  floating 
palaces  of  India,  and  granite  steps  lead  down  to  the  lakelet  on 
which  royal  boats  once  floated.  The  supports  of  the  carefully 
chiseled  stone  balustrade  girdling  the  building  carry  lotus-leai 
designs.  Many  bird  notes  fill  the  air,  and  a  gentle  melancholy 
broods  above  the  place.  Here  the  palace  ladies  formerly  loved 
to  congregate  and  to  enjoy  the  reflection  of  the  myriad  lotuses 
which  waved  and  nodded  above  the  rippleless  pool.  —  A  de- 
serted garden,  now  choked  with  underbrush,  stretches  away  to 
the  rear  of  the  palace  buildings,  and  near  the  back  gate,  on  a 
spot  then'  covered  with  a  small  hut  since  destroyed,  a  cruel 
tragedy  was  enacted  before  dawn  on  Oct.  8,  1895. 

Because  of  her  unusual  intelligence  and  her  skill  in  placing  members  of  her 
own  family  in  nearly  all  the  offices  of  State,  the  Korean  Queen  was  a  thorn 
in  the  side  of  certain  Court  intriguers,  particularly  TaiWon  Kun  (the  King's 
father;  died  1898)  who  ruled  with  excessive  vi^or  for  10  yrs.,  put  2000  Ko- 
rean Catholics  to  death  in  1868,  and  won  the  title  of  a '  man  with  bowels  of 
iron  and  a  heart  of  stone.'  By  unsorui>ulous  ability  and  rapaciousness  he 
gained  the  support  of  certain  unpatriotic  Japanese,  and  on  the  morning  in 

auestion,  at  the  head  of  a  mixed  band  of  miscreants,  he  suddenly  stormed 
le  palace,  intimidated  the  Kin^,  and  by  mistreating  certain  of  the  palace 
ladies,  made  them  disclose  the  hiding-place  of  their  royal  mistress.    'In  the 
upper  story  the  Crown  Princess  was  found  with  several  ladies,  and  she  was 
dragged  by  the  hair,  cut  with  a  sword,  beaten,  and  thrown  downstairs.  The 
Queen,  flying  from  the  assassins,  was  overtaken  and  stabbed,  falling  down  as 
if  dead;  some  one  then  jumped  on  her  breast  and  stabbed  her  through  and 
through  with  a  sword.  She  was  then  carried  to  a  grove  of  pines  in  the  adja- 
cent park,  kerosene  oil  was  poured  over  the  body,  which  was  surrounaad 
by  fagots  and  burned,  only  a  few  amall  bones  escapiof  destructicm..  Tbi»a 
perished,  at  the  age  of  forty-four,  by  the  hands  ofanaBanB,  t\\«  <diiBv«c,^«Ei^V; 
tious,  inttigvmg,  JaadtnattDg,  ana  in  many  respects  Ibv&YAe  Q,\v^ti  ^  >i^^*^ 
Wiat  remained  of  the  poor  striokeA  body  was  gatheied  up  AxA  \iiAKt  VrakTvs^ 
beaeatb  the  tomb  mentioDed  heretaaiter. 


742    Route  46.  SEOUL  Marble  Pagoda, 

The  Big  Bell  (chong  or  chon)  stands  at  the  intersectioa  of  the 
Nandaimorirdori  and  the  Chon-no  (PL  B,  2)  in  a  rude,  slatted, 
and  time-stained  pavilion  called  the  Chong-kdk,  It  is  of  cast 
bronze,  10  ft.  high  by  8  wide  (weight  unknown),  and  is  said  to 
be  the  3d  largest  in  the  world  —  which  is  doubtful.  It  is  easily 
the  largest  in  Korea,  and  it  bears  the  following  inscription: 
^Sye  Cho  the  Great,  12th  year  Man  cha  and  moon,  the  4th  year 
of  the  great  Ming  Emperor  Hman-hiuij  the  head  of  the  bureau 
of  Royal  despatches,  Sye  Ko  Chyeng^  bearing  the  title  Sa  Ka 
Chyeng,  had  this  pavilion  erected  and  this  bell  himg.'  Accord- 
ing to  an  authority  it  was  cast  in  1396  and  hung  in  its  present 
place  in  1468.  The  metal  of  which  it  was  cast  failed  to  fuse 
until  a  living  child  had  been  tossed  into  the  molten  mass,  from 
which  circumstance  the  Koreans  claim  that  the  wailing  (A  a 
child  can  always  be  detected  in  its  notes.  Its  dull,  heavy  boom 
is  heard  in  all  parts  of  the  city,  and*its  warning  tones  have  been 
the  signal  for  the  opening  and  closing  of  the  gates  during  five 
centuries.  Formerly  at  8  or  9  o'clock,  when  darkness  had 
fallen,  this  great  ciirfew  was  rung  as  a  signal  to  all  the  men 
^tk&t  they  must  hurry  home,  seclude  themselves,  and  give  the 
women  a  chance  to  come  out  and  amuse  themselves.  Drastic 
punishment  was  the  reward  for  failure  to  obey;  the  custom  fell 
mto  disuse  when  Europeans  came  to  live  in  the  capital.  The 
spot  on  which  the  bell  kiosk  stands  is  regarded  as  the  center  of 
the  old  city.  The  inclosed  Monument  somewhat  to  the  W.  of 
the  big  bell,  on  the Chon-no  (N.  side),  was  erected  by  Tat  Won 
Kun  in  1866,  after  the  Korean  repulse  of  a  feeble  attempt  made 
by  the  French  to  get  satisfaction  for  the  murder  of  French 
missionaries.  The  inscription  is  significant  of  the  tyrant: 
'Whosoever  pronounces  even  the  name  of  a  European  is  a 
traitor  to  his  country.' 

The  Marble  Pagoda  (PI.  C,  2),  in  Pagoda  Park,  5  min.  walk 
E.  from  the  big  bell,  stands  on  the  N.  side  of  Chon-no  St.  in  a 
pretty  park  with  attractive  iron  gates.  If  these  are  closed,  en- 
trance can  be  gained  through  the  wooden  gate  at  the  left.  The 
custodian's  house  (no  fees)  is  just  within.  The  pagoda,  a  curi- 
ous Buddhist  relic  in  the  Dra vidian  style  modified  by  Chinese 
sculptors,  is  said  to  have  been  presented  to  a  Korean  King  by  a 
Chinese  emperor  in  the  13th  cent.   Origindly  11  stories  high, 
it  is  now  in  a  lamentable  state  of  decay;  the  topmost  sections 
have  fallen  and  lie  near  the  base.  The  sculptures  in  low  relief 
represent  Buddhist  votaries  traveling  toward  nirvana,  sur- 
rounded by  tigers,  dragons,  and  many  figures  of  the  Buddhist 
pantheon.  Time  and  the  elements  have  dealt  less  kindly  with 
una  curious  relic  of  Indian-Chinese  art  thaji  with  the  huge 
stone  tortoise  hard  by,  tke  cVdsftled  lotus  leaf  on  the  back  erf 
which  proclaims  its  BuddbiaXivG  sv^oc&Rasi^^.  \\.S&\<^lt,  lon^  by 
9  ft  broad,  and  it  testa  m  a  BV3j3;teii«^«kJc.^\^V3  \^\\.^T»iss^ 
from  its  b^k  is  a  stone  da&lt  ^».ppe!^>a^  «.^^>^^NNa5i^«i.\»a^ 


East  Palace.  SEOUL  46.  RotUe.    743 

ment  of  writhing  dragons  in  bold  design.  It  is  evidently  a 
tomb,  as  the  tortoise  forms  the  material  for  a  number  of  pleas- 
ing superstitions  peculiarly  acceptable  to  the  Korean  habit  of 
thought. 

The  *East  Palace  (Ckang-tok  Koong)  stands  in  the  N.E. 
quarter  of  the  city,  immediately  S.  of  the  Museum  (PI.  C,  2), 
at  the  top  of  a  short  street  (Xokamon-dori)  which  leads  N. 
from  Chon-no  a  short  distance  beyond  (E.)  the  Marble  Pagoda. 
The  palace  and  grounds  are  closed  to  the  general  public,  but  a 
card  of  admission  can  be  obtained  through  one  s  consul  or 
upon  application  to  the  Resident  General.  One  hour  is  suffi- 
cient for  an  inspection  of  the  buildings  and  grounds  —  which 
are  worth  seeing.  Fees  are  refused  by  the  palace  guide  and 
should  not  be  proffered.  Travelers  usually  indicate  beforehand 
the  hour  of  their  arrival  and  the  (English-speaking)  guide  will 
be  found  in  readiness  just  within  the  gate,  near  the  new  admin- 
istration building  —  the  guards  of  which  challenge  visitors 
unsuppUed  with  the  necessary  permit.  The  main  building 
dates  from  the  17th  cent,  but  has  been  frequently  repaired  and 
recently  re-decorated.  The  exterior  is  profusely  adorned  in 
clashing  colors.  The  tiled  roof  with  deep  eaves  has  elaborately 
painted  carved  beams  carrying  terminal  enrichments  showing 
the  5-petal  plum  blossom  —  the  old  dynastic  emblem.  The 
detached  building  at  the  rear  of  the  main  structure,  an  excel- 
lent example  of  first-class  Korean  workmanship,  has  strikin^y 
decorative  peacock-blue  tiles,  and  formerly  was  the  home  of 
the  Emperor.  When  not  in  the  New  Palace  in  the  Legation 
Quarter,  he  is  supposed  to  abide  in  the  low  house  at  the  right. 
The  prevailing  tones  of  the  interior  decorations  are  red,  gray, 
and  black;  the  structure  is  erected  around  a  hollow  square,  sim- 
ilar to  the  old  imperial  buildings  at  Kvoto.  Save  for  a  stone 
fountain  the  central  patio  is  bare.  The  long  hall  into  which  the 
visitor  is  conducted  first  is  carpeted  with  imported  linoleum; 
from  this  one  usually  enters  a  public  dining-room,  decorated  in 
tawdry  and  doubtful  taste.  The  low  waiting-room  is  a  poly- 
chromatic maze  of  bewildering  colors,  not  very  subdued,  but 
relieved  here  and  there  by  sculptured  phcenixes  and  plum- 
blossom  crests.  From  it  one  proceeds  to  the  vast  and  lofty 
Throne  Room,  60  or  more  ft.  high,  embellished  in  many  colors. 
Fourteen  immense  wood  columns  2  ft.  in  diameter,  and  many 
pilasters,  all  painted  a  rich  Indian  red,  support  the  coffered 
ceiling,  each  panel  of  which  is  adorned  with  a  painted  phoenix: 
the  wide  central  sunken  panel  displays  two  gorgeous  gold 
phoenixes  in  high  relief,  surrounded  by  wave  patterns  in  poly- 
chrome tints.  This  design  is  duplicated  in  a  richer  and  more 
decorous  way  in  the  fine  panel  above  the  throne.  T\ife  csujsnf- 
ordinarily  fiine  hanffngB  are  of  rich  yellow  and  |^o\d  \sc»c»dfe 
woven  on  Kydto  looms.  At  the  back  ate  two  leix^  ^^^gasc^ss^ 
(one  with  apeadock'a  outspread  tail)  painted  mp\MJBai%c^^««* 


744    Route  46.  SEOUL  EaH  Pataa. 

on  a  gold-lacquered  panel  20  by  20  ft.  Beneath  are  four  curiouB 
wood  panels  ornamented  in  colors  with  mythological  phoenixes, 
dragons,  and  tortoises.  The  imperisJ  insignia  worked  in  relief 
on  the  silk  curtains  in  gold  are  striking.  The  beautiful  gold 
peacock  screen  at  the  left  is  worth  noting.  The  massive  and 
graceful  chair  which  forms  the  throne  is  of  rich  yellow  Eolk- 
velvet  and  gold,  with  imperial  plum  blossoms  worked  in  gold 
on  the  arms  and  legs,  and  the  rang  and  Yin  of  the  Chinese. 
The  exquisite  dark-blue  cloisonne  vases  at  the  right  and  left, 
portraying  white  flowers  and  birds,  were  presented  by  the  late 
Prince  Ito.  Singularly  out  of  place  amid  the  luxurious  fit- 
ments of  the  room  are  the  14  brass  gas-heaters  of  foreign  pro- 
venience. The  haxdwood  floor  is  polished  to  a  high  degree  of 
luster  and  slipperiness.  The  medley  of  wall-decoration  is  not 
in  the  best  taste. 

Adjoining  the  Throne  Room  is  the  smaller,  similarly  deco- 
rated Audience  Room,  with  some  rich  and  costly  screens  and 
some  spindly,  upholstered  French  furniture.  The  screen  in 
front  of  the  yellow  silk  hangings  at  the  left  cost  ¥2000  and  is 
a  marvel  of  richness;  the  panel  at  the  right,  with  the  cod^  and 
hen,  plum  blossoms,  and  camellias,  symbolizes  Spring.  That 
with  the  wistaria,  lilies,  and  cranes  is  emblematic  of  Summer. 
Autumn  is  represented  by  autumn  leaves,  chrysanthemums, 
and  pheasants  fashioned  with  marvelous  fidelity  to  nature.  The 
dissolution  of  the  summer  glories  and  the  advent  of  Winter  is 
represented  by  a  panel  displaying  ducks,  winter  berries,  and 
flowers.  The  base  of  the  screen  is  beautifully  inlaid  with  rich 
yellow  gold  and  madreperl,  and  edged  with  chased  gold  fili- 
gree. The  dominant  ground  note  of  all  the  panels  is  a  delicate 
Searl  gray.  The  other  screen,  displaying  strikingly  handsome 
apanese  cranes  on  a  mauve  ground,  cost  ¥1500.  —  Travers- 
ing a  long  hall  in  which  there  are  several  excellent  old  Chinese 
and  Japanese  screens,  we  come  to 

The  Reception  Hall,  with  some  more  costly  screens  and  a 
noteworthy  peacock  panel  suspended  against  the  wall;  the  fas- 
tenings of  the  windows  and  partitions  are  fine  Korean  brass- 
work.  The  bronze  statuette  on  its  pedestal  (said  to  be  over  a 
thousand  yrs.  old)  was  a  gift  from  the  Emperor  of  Italy  to  the 
ex-Emperor  of  Korea  for  his  consideration  toward  certain 
Italian  subjects.  The  long  screen  behind  it,  adorned  with  apri- 
cot blossoms,  is  of  Korean  make.  —  Leaving  the  palace  we  bear 
to  the  left  and  proceed  to  the  Imperial  Summer  House,  in  the 
spacious,  flower-decked  garden.  In  spring  the  place  is  redolent 
of  fragrance  and  beautiful  with  blossoming  cherries;  in  summo' 
L'iies  and  lotuses  impart  their  special  charm,  and  in  autumn  the 
reddening  maples  axe  oi  ^  ^ox\y^>Msafifia  diflScult  to  portray. 
The  ffrounds  are  very  eartensvv^,  ^tA^^^^^\^«A\a  and  fro 
acroiS  them.  In  one  oi  tide  \\\.^\e  \iOv^  ^^iT^^J^^ 


Art  Museum.  SEOUL  46.  Route.    745 

special  summer-house  where  the  Crown  Prince  used  to  receive 
the  ministers  and  nobles.  The  visitor  is  conducted  finally  to  a 
charmingly  reposeful  little  sexagonal  summer-house  overlook- 
ing a  lovely  pond  spanned  by  a  quaint  bridge  —  a  flower- 
decked  retreat  in  strange  contrast  to  the  baldness  of  the  Ko- 
rean streets.  To  this  spot  a  special  aromatic^tea  accompanied 
by  cakes  is  brought  from  an  adjacent  house,  and  served  on 
spotless  linen  spread  upon  a  Western  table.  Far  back  of  the 
tea-house,  at  the  end  of  a  secluded  walk  which  winds  through 
forest  glades  and  maple  groves,  is  a  pretty  dell  with  a  running 
brook  near  it  —  the  special  retiring  place  of  His  Majesty.  If 
the  guide  is  complacent  he  will  lead  the  visitor  through  a  gate- 
way to  the  grounds  of  the  museum  and  the  botanical  garden 
before  conducting  him  to  the  entrance. 

The  *Seoul  Art  Museum  (Hakuhutsukwan)^  the  Botanical 
Garden  (Shokubutsuen),  and  the  Zodlogical  Garden  (DdbvU 
suren)  are  all  in  one  wide  inclosure  just  N.  of  the  East  Palace 
garden  (PI.  C,  2),  and  are  reached  through  a  short  street  (the 
Genkwormon-dori)  which  leads  N.  (tram-cars)  from  Chon-no 
St.  (5  min.  walk)  at  a  point  a  short  way  E.  of  Pagoda  Park 
and  the  E.  Palace  entrance;  they  were  established  in  1908 
and  are  open  daily  (admission,  10  sen)  from  9  to  4.  The  en- 
trance to  the  museum  grounds  is  on  the  left  side  of  the  st., 
and  when  one  stands  within  the  gateway  the  museum  is 
straight  ahead,  the  botanical  garden  is  at  the  right,  and  the 
Zoo  at  the  left;  all  are  in  a  state  of  development  and  change. 
The  museum  exhibits  at  present  displayed  in  the  rather  shabby 
detached  buildings  are  destined  later  to  be  assembled  and 
united  in  one  or  more  larger  and  more  commodious  structures. 
No  effort  is  here  made  to  describe  the  collection  in  detail;  it  is 
decidedly  inferior  to  the  customary  splendid  ancient  and  mod- 
ern art  objects  one  usually  sees  in  the  museums  of  Japan. 
There  are  strangely  few  antiquities  of  artistic  or  intrinsic  worth, 
despite  the  oft-repeated  assertion  that  Korea  was  the  fountain- 
head  whence  the  wonderful  artisans  of  Old  Japan  drew  their 
inspiration.  Few  of  them  are  comparable  to  the  early  achieve- 
ments of  the  Nipponese.  Most  of  the  specimens  of  old  work 
date  from  periods  between  the  9th  and  14th  centuries.  There 
are  some  attractive  bits  of  ^old,  bronze,  brass,  and  lacquer 
inlaid  with  madreperl,  conspicuous  among  the  latter,  several 
chests,  trays,  and  what-not  strikingly  like  certain  of  the  pieces 
in  the  Nara  and  Toky5  museums.  The  bronze  mirrors  are 
chiefly  of  Chinese  origin  and  are  unequivocally  the  prototypes 
of  those  so  prominent  in  Japan  in  the  pre-Meiji  era.  The  hall 
in  which  the  small  but  interesting  collection  of  old  Buddhaa 
(many  of  Indian  origin)  are  kept  is  worth  looking  into,  aa  it 
contains  also  a  display  of  early  jewelry.  CerV».m  ol  >Sm6  ^^ 
monochrome  and  polychrome  pictures,  ok^ily  m  tnoSwcnwaiuo 
and  kakemono  form,  axe  scarcely  distinguiabBYAe,  Vi  \to»  «je®!M^ 


746    Route  40.  SEOUL  Queen's  Tomb, 

eye,  from  the  Japanese  and  Chinese  work.  Certain  of  the  court 
scenes,  landscapes,  portraits  of  Buddhist  priests  and  sages,  and 
the  like,  are  noteworthy  in  conception  and  technic  and  show 
the  work  of  true  artists  on  their  ancient  surfaces.  Tlie  collec- 
tion of  palanquins,  singularly  crude  vehicles,  arms,  and  royal 
trappings  is  more  picturesque  than  artistic.  The  mineral  speci- 
mens and  the  stuffed  birds,  animals,  and  fishes  need  not  detain 
one.  The  numerous  glass  cases  containing  early  pottery,  porce- 
lain, and  stoneware  are  not  without  interest.  Certam  of  tiie 
rare  celadon  pieces  are  grim  relics  of  an  era  when  it  was  cus- 
tomary to  fill  them  with  food  and  water  and  place  them  in 
tombs  or  mounds  where  aged  or  infirm  persons  had  been  left  to 
die  a  lingering  death.  The  gray  Mishimade-ware  is  so  called 
because  the  stripes  resemble  those  of  the  Miskima  Almanac 
published  anciently  by  the  Miehima  Myojin  Temple  (in 
Japan).  All  the  pieces  are  immeasurably  superior  to  present- 
day  productions.  The  fictitious  value  placed  upon  some  of 
these  old  Korean  bits  by  Japanese  enthusiasts  was  exemplified 
at  a  recent  auction  sale  m  Osakaj  when  a  mound-bowl,  once  the 
property  of  a  Korean  emperor,  and  with  an  intrinsic  value  of 
perhaps  15  yen,  sold  for  ¥90,000!  —  The  blue-and-white  porce- 
lain of  the  Ri  Dynasty  is  interesting.  Most  of  the  si)ecimen8 
of  white  grazed  stoneware  were  taken  from  tombs  dating  from 
A.D.  900  to  1400.  —  The  buildings  on  a  low  terrace  at  the  upper 
end  date  from  1911. 

The  Botanical  Garden  is  laid  out  in  the  formal  Japanese 
style,  with  lakelets,  artistic  bridges,  etc.,  and  is  being  stocked 
gradually  with  rare  plants.  The  fine  glassed-in  greenhouse 
contains  a  number  of  beautiful  orchids.  The  cherry  blooms  in 
April  and  the  maple  leaves  in  Nov.  attract  many  persons.  — 
The  Zoo  contains  the  usual  assortment  of  animals  from  rodents 
to  elephants,  besides  some  splendid  Korean  tigers,  leopards,  and 
bears.  —  The  Imperial  Library  in  course  of  construction  will 
contain,  among  other  things,  some  rare  Korean  and  Chinese 
manuscripts  from  the  monasteries  on  Diamond  Mt. 

The  Queen's  Tomb  (Seiry&ri),  about  1  M.  N.E.  of  the  To- 

daimon  {Tong  Tai  Moon)  Gate  (PI.  D,  2)  at  the  E.  outskirt  of 

the  city,  can  be  reached  easily  and  quickly  (tram-car  in  20 

min. ;  fare,  15  sen;  2  hrs.  should  be  allowed  for  the  round  trip)  by 

boarding  a  car  on  Chon-no  and  procee^ling  to  a  point  near  the 

terminus,  outside  the  gate.  It  stands  on  the  terraced  slope  of  a 

high  hill  20  min.  walk  (over  a  straight  road)  to  the  left  of  the 

car-track,  behind  a  group  of  shrines.  Encircling  it  is  a  row 

of  crudely  chiseled  grotesque  figures  of  Chinese  sages,  lions, 

ponies,  sheep,  etc.    A  slab  of  finely  sculptured  granite  2  ft. 

thick,  6  ft.  wide,  and  1^  it.  long  stands  before  the  mound  and 

rests  upon  4  stone  drams.  T\i^  ^eaet^  ^^^t  is  bizarre  and 

puerile.  The  caretaker  eiqpe^i^  a.smaa.1^  ^WiSi  %«fj^  Wfc\, 

—  The  dilapidated  aad  u»MiXfete»\Mi%'^^^^>^s^  ^^^  ^^  ^>sa«fc 


Exeursima,  SEOUL  46.  Route.   747 

God  of  War  just  outside  the  Todaimon  Gate  is  not  worth  wast- 
ing time  over. — The  so-called  Tebiplb  of  Heaven,  a  worthless 
structure  in  the  W.  quarter  of  the  city  (PI.  B,  3),  played  its 
part  during  the  old  regime  and  fell  into  decay  along  with  it. 

The  New  Imperial  Palace  ( Kyong  Kyu)  stands  in  the  Lega- 
tion Quarter  (PI.  B,  3)  in  a  wide  compound  entered  throuph 
several  massive  gateways  which  recall  certain  of  the  Buddhist 
temple  gates  of  Japan.  The  florid  decorations  are  in  atrocious 
taste  and  are  less  interesting  than  the  many  involved  brackets 
whose  salient  members  suggest  exaggerated  calipers  and  attest 
their  Buddhist  origin.  The  left  (side)  gate  has  recently  been 
painted  in  colors  so  flamboyant  that  even  the  brilliant  Korean 
sun  seems  unable  to  tame  them.  The  palace  proper,  a  preten- 
tious gray  granite  lonicized  structure  (dating  from  1906),  two- 
storied,  with  lines  of  fluted  columns  on  three  sides  and  Greek 
vases  on  the  low  roof,  stands  far  back  from  the  street,  behind 
hi^  masonry  walls^  and  is  not  open  to  the  public.  It  occupies 
the  site  of  an  origmal  detached  Korean-style  edifice  erected 
soon  after  the  flight  of  the  Emperor  to  the  Russian  Legation 
(in  1895)  and  burned  in  1904;  the  interior  fitments  were  fur- 
nished by  Maple  &  Co.  of  London,  and  cost  about  3  million 
yen.  In  the  back  yard  is  a  striking  shaft  adorned  with  a  group 
of  bronze  dragons.  The  English  Gonavlate  stands  just  back  of 
the  palace  inclosm-e,  and  the  American  at  the  left  of  it. 

Walks  and  Excursions.  The  environs  of  Seoul  possess  a 
wildness  peculiarly  pleasing  to  the  stranger;  within  an  hour's 
walk  of  the  capital,  one  finds  districts  as  primitive  as  though 
they  were  a  thousand  miles  from  civilization.  The  people  are 
gentle  and  kindly  disposed,  though  usually  ignorant  of  any 
English  word.  Many  of  the  old  customs  prevail,  and  if  the 
foreigner  addresses  a  woman,  in  all  probability  she  will  turn 
and  flee  from  him  as  if  he  were  the  'Old  Scratch '  in  person;  the 
scrawnier  and  more  uncomely  the  woman,  the  shyer  and  more 
timid  she  usually  appears  I  Strangers  who  knock  at  house  doors 
or  cross  land  to  seek  information  from  unattended  females  are . 
apt  to  wound  the  susceptibilities  of  the  people.  Albeit  the 
coimtry  is  safe,  foreign  ladies  who  object  to  rude  curiosity 
should  go  attended  by  some  one  —  if  only  a  coolie  or  a  jinriki- 
man  from  the  hotel.  The  fortresses  which  crown  the  summits 
of  certain  of  the  environing  mts.  are  picturesque  relics  of  the 
old  days,  but  are  scarcely  worth  visiting. 

Independence  Arch,  and  the  White  Buddha.  The  former 
stands  on  the  Peking  Koad  in  extra-mural  Seoul.  15  min.  walk 
beyond  the  W.  Gate  (PI.  A,  2).  The  walk  to  the  latter  is  one  of 
the  most  interesting  in  the  environs,  since  it  affords  a  gpod 
glimpse  of  Korean  ccfuntry  and  (on  the  TeiMni)  z.  ^sssbsgfs&ssiess^ 
view  over  the  city  from  the  heights  b^dud  \t.  —  15x«itt.  ^^ 
gate  the  road  slopea  aharply  into  the  valley  lo  (<5  xc^ssu^  ^i.-^^ft 


748    Route  46.  SEOUL  The  WhUe  Buddha. 

unpaved  street  leading  to  the  right.  Several  of  the  consulates 
are  hereabout,  and  near  them  are  i>retty  flower-embow«:«d 
villas  of  foreign  residents.  The  primitive  houses  which  flank 
the  Peking  Road  are  scarcely  better  than  the  homes  of  the  con- 
temptible little  black  pigs  for  which  Korea  is  known.  The 
curious  establishments  where  the  huge  draft  bulls  are  trussed 
and  shod,  resemble  primitive  bear-traps:  half  a  dozen  men  are 
required  to  manage  the  imwieldy  animals.  The  wares  in  some 
of  the  shops  are  kept  in  pottery  jars  as  big  as  those  in  which  the 
'Forty  Thieves*  were  boiled  in  oil.  Korean  ineptitude  is  curi- 
ously manifest  in  certain  of  the  processes  of  daily  life,  and  the 
leisiu'ely  traveler  finds  much  to  mterest  him  hereabout. 

The  Arch  is  a  somewhat  tawdry  afifair  of  gray  granite  with 
a  commemorative  tablet  and  design  of  the  Korean  flag.  It  was 
erected  in  1895  to  symbolize  the  assumption  of  independence 
by  Korea,  on  the  site  of  an  ancient  structure  called  the  'Gate 
of  Gratitude.'  Near  it  formerly  stood  a  pavilion  in  which  newly 
appointed  sovereigns  received  the  investiture  brought  by  a 
special  envoy  from  Pekine.  Only  the  stone  supports  of  the  old 
gate  remain.  —  The  rambling  structure  near  the  base  of  the 
hill  at  the  left  is  the  Seoul  Prison.  The  region  roundabout  was 
formerly  used  as  an  Execution  Ground,  and  a  decade  or  so  ago 
it  was  not  unusual  to  see  headless  iDodies  stretched  bv  the  rcMia- 
side,  as  reminders  that  the  ferocious  Tong-haks,  or  the  scarcely 
less  cruel  Government,  were  busy.  —  Beyond  the  arch,  the 
road  winds  up  through  a  rocky  defile,  then  leads  countryward 
between  bald  hills.  The  city  wall  high  above  on  the  craggy 
heights  is  picturesque.  The  highway  soon  descends  into  a  i^d 
and  arid  gorge.  About  J  M.  from  the  arch  the  side  trail  to  the 
White  Buddha  turns  off  at  the  right,  and  winds  first  to  the  left, 
then  to  the  right  across  a  lonely  and  forbidding  country.  An 
open  stretch  leads  between  hills  to  a  shallow  river,  a  5  min. 
walk  up  which  brings  one  to  Inouye^s  stone  quarry  (frequent 
blasting).  Opposite  this,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  stream,  near 
the  superintendent's  house,  is  a  temple-like  pavilion  above  a 
monolithic  fragment  of  granite  at  the  foot  of  a  hill. 

The  White  Buddha,  sometimes  called  Miriok  (from  the  Chi- 
nese Mir-le,  or  Buddha),  is  one  of  many  similar  sculptured  fig- 
ures (in  low  relief)  scattered  throughout  Korea,  and  is  supposed 
to  be  an  early  relic  of  Buddhism.  The  setting  of  the  figure  is 
romantic  and  picturesque,  with  the  shallow  stream  prattling 
at  its  feet  and  the  lofty  hills  rising  behind.   The  body  of  the 
seated  image  is  painted  white;  the  heavv,  chiseled  features 
show  little  of  the  calm  Buddhistic  spirit  characteristic  of  cer- 
tain Buddhas  in  Japan,  and  the  bizarre  head-dress  and  gaudy 
enrichments  accentuate  *\\s  eYi^o^we^fa.  There  is  no  custodian, 
and  no  fees  are  demanded.  —  T\i^  x^Xwro.  Xa  ^^wul  ^bould  be 
varied  by  continumgupatTCam\Xvxo>\^^>^^^^^ 
region  to  a  point  wW  t^ie  dt>j  ^i&  ^^^^  ^^^'^^^  ^t««.^ 


Pock  Han.  SEOUL  46,  RmOe,    749 

gorge  and  forms  a  medueval  five-arched  bridge.  At  a  point  5 
min.  beyond  the  gateway  (through  the  wall)  a  lateral  arm  of 
the  stream  comes  in  at  right  angles.  This  should  be  followed 
past  the  small  group  of  native  nuts  flanking  one  side  of  the 
^orge.  In  spring  the  wild  flowers  are  varied  and  beautiful,  and 
m  autunm  the  splendid  tints  are  accentuated  by  numerous 
coppices  of  red  haw  bushes.  In  the  warm  and  sheltered  rift  in 
the  hills,  vegetation  flourishes  with  semi-tropical  luxuriance. 
Lines  of  laden  bulls,  ponies,  and  coolies  descend  the  gorge  and 
add  to  its  picturesqueness.  A  25  min.  walk  from  the  Buddha, 
along  a  well-definea  path,  brings  one  to  the  summit  of  the  ridge 
and  the  antique  Pook  Han  GatCj  formerly  closed  and  reserved 
for  the  King  should  he  attempt  to  escape  to  one  of  the  several 
fortresses  in  the  hills.  A  Japanese  sentry  now  guards  it.  — 
The  road  dips  hence  into  a  second  gorge  choked  with  wiUows, 
poplars,  and  scrub  pines,  then  emerges  on  a  height  whence  a 
fine  panorama  of  the  city  and  the  hills  behind  unfolds  itself. 
Hence  a  30  min.  walk  down  through  the  outskirts  (follow  the 
wide  road  and  turn  up  at  the  left  with  it)  brings  one  to  the  side 
wall  and  gate  of  the  N.  Palace. 

Pook  Han  Monastery.  Pook  Han  is  the  name  of  a  horseshoe- 
shaped  ridge  of  mts.  about  6  M.  north  of  Seoul;  the  highest 
of  the  peaks  is  about  3500  ft.  above  the  sea.  Some  2000  ft.  up 
from  the  valley,  toward  the  summit,  is  a  depression  somewhat 
similar  to  that  of  Koyorsan,  Here  stood  formerly  an  extensive 
group  of  monasterial  edifices  (some  of  which  have  been  burned) 
where  Buddhist  monks  who  had  taken  monastic  vows,  uneasy 
Korean  kings,  and  a  few  literates  lived  the  lives  of  recluses. 
The  structures  are  now  deserted  save  for  a  few  poor  (and  some- 
times greedy)  priests.  Certain  of  the  Christian  missionaries  in 
Seoul  go  there  during  the  hottest  period  of  siunmer,  and  dwell 
in  the  tumble-down  temples.  The  spot  forms  a  locally  popular 
all-day  excursion  from  the  capital  —  of  more  interest  to  the 
antiquarian  and  to  the  lover  of  picturesque  and  tranquil  scen- 
ery than  to  the  ordinary  tourist  in  search  of  thrills.  Ladies 
unused  to  climbing  rocky  roads  may  find  the  trip  fatiguine. 
Four  hrs.  should  be  allowed  for  the  outward  joimiey  (which 
can  be  planned  to  the  best  advantage  with  the  assistance  of  the 
hotel  manager),  and  as  many  for  the  return  —  which  can  be 
varied.  A  guide  (3  yen  for  the  day)  can  be  dispensed  with  if  one 

*  can  get  a  jmriki  coolie  who  speaks  a  little  English.  Rikishas 
(2  yen  for  the  round  trip  with  2  men)  can  go  only  part  way, 
leaving  a  walk  up  to  the  monastery  of  about  1 J  hr.  One  man 
accompanies  the  traveler  and  the  other  goes  round  the  base  of 
the  hill  to  another  point,  whence  the  homeward  start  is  made. 
By  starting  from  the  hotel  at  8  a.m.  and  taking  it  leisurely  ^^Ibi^ 
monastery  can  be  reached  about  noon,-w\ieTe\\iii^^oxLQ^«iX»\K^ 
be  taken  from  the  hotel)  may  be  eaten.   Tlae  b\\>\i»Xjmmi  o1  ^^5j^ 

structures,  locked  in  the  cool  mt.  f aBtneeaeB  oi  a  s'bsqx  o1  ^wi» 


750    Route  47.     SEOUL  TO  CHEMULPO 

great  axial  range,  is  charmingly  romantic;  the  edifices  them- 
selves are  in  a  lamentable  state  of  decay  and  are  melancholy 
reminders  of  better  days.  Compared  to  the  splendid  Buddhis- 
tic fanes  of  Japan,  these  are  crudely  construct^,  and  with 
shabby,  impoverished  interiors.  The  now  faded  frescoes  re- 
present the  customary  mythological  dragons  and  other  Bud- 
ahist  emblems,  and  are  without  artistic  worth.  On  a  clear  day 
the  views  from  the  high  points  of  the  hills  are  magnificent  and 
far-reaching;  ChemtdpOf  25  M.  distant,  and  the  YeUow  Sea 
that  stretches  beyond  it  are  visible,  along  with  many  hundreds 
of  square  miles  of  mt.  and  valley.  The  matchless  blue  of  the 
Korean  sky  lends  a  permanent  charm.  —  It  is  customary  to 
leave  a  small  offering  with  the  priest;  the  traveler  is  fortunate 
if  this  subject  does  not  name  the  fee  and  make  it  a  fat  one. 

The  Diamond  Mountain  Monasteries,  a  celebrated  monkish 
retreat  in  an  isolated  position  on  the  Keunir-kang  ML,  lie  in 
Kang-Won  Province,  on  the  E.  coast  overlooking  the  Sea  of 
Japan  about  100  M.  from  Seoul,  Their  approach  is  guarded  by 
narrow,  rocky  passages  up  which  the  traveler  must  toil  labori- 
ously. The  journey  at  present  is  attended  by  so  many  difficul- 
ties that  few  tourists  are  willing  to  brave  them.  The  Seoul- 
Wonsan  (or  Gensan)  KLy.  Line  (136  M.)  now  under  construc- 
tion will  greatly  minimize  these  when  completed.  There  are 
upward  of  50  or  more  monasteries  and  monastic  shrines,  all  in 
a  ruinous  state  and  all  similar  in  point  of  architecture,  but 
greatly  inferior  in  point  of  beauty,  to  the  alli^  Buddhist 
temples  of  Japan.  Some  of  the  ancient  buildings  are  said  to 
date  from  a.d.  515  —  which  is  doubtful.  Their  interiors  are 
shabby  and  dirty,  and  the  monkish  caretakers  (upon  whom  the 
traveler  must  depend  for  food  and  shelter)  have  the  commer- 
cial instinct  strongly  developed.  Trips  can  be  planned  with 
the  aid  of  the  hotel  manager,  who  will  obtain  gmdes  and  out- 
fits for  the  traveler. 

According  to  the  latest  official  reports  there  are  2000  Buddhist  monaste> 
ries  in  Chosen,  presided  over  by  10,000  priests  (less  than  one  tenth  of  the  total 
number  in  Japan).  Thirty  of  the  institutions  are  recognized  officially.  There 
are  said  to  be  but  two  Buddhist  sects,  the  Zen  and  the  Kyp;  the  latter  an  off- 
shoot of  the  Chinese  creed  and  confined  exclusively  to  Korea.  Many  of  the 
old  monasteries  are  in  a  deplorable  state  of  neglect  and  decay  —  of  greater 
interest  to  the  antiquarian  and  the  student  of  Buddhism  than  to  the  casual 
traveler. 

47.  From  Seoul  vid  Ryiizan  and  Eitdho  to  Jinsen  (Chemulpo). 

Seoul- Jinsen  Line. 

25  M.  Several  trains  daily  (from  the  Nandaimon  Station;  PI.  B,  3,  in 
about  1  hr.) ;  fare  1st  cl.,  ¥1.25;  2d  cl.,  88  sen;  3d  cl.,  50  sen,  Paasengenfrom 
Fusan  may  leave  the  main  \me  north-bound  train  at  Eiidho  (Rte.  45),  7  M. 
8.  of  Seoult  and  awMt  the  tram  tViex^.  Cw%  «x«Tiv8.Tk«d  Jinsen  —  the  Japan- 
ese name  for  the  Cfcemulpo  ol  tYi©  "K^owaxi^.  T:\sfc  1^ .  V.<&^i^ccv»i^ftA.Vsir  Ameri- 
cans in  1899)  was  the  ftrat  one  buvW.  Vn  T&.aK»«  1\»  ^Miwa«»  wa  t«sQBM^ 
from  Eitdho, 


Kyong-Kwi  Province,     CHEMULPO  47.  Rouie.    751 

The  line  passes  out  through  RyUzan^  crosses  the  Han  River 
on  the  main  line  bridge,  then  bears  W.  and  runs  toward  the 
Yellow  Sea.  Cars  must  be  changed  at  EUoho  JcL  unless  one 
has  boarded  a  through  car  marked  Jinsen.  The  big  building  at 
the  right)  i  M.  beyond  Eitoho,  is  a  prison.  The  train  traverses 
a  fairly  fertile  country  where  many  of  the  vegetables  for  the 
city  markets  are  raised.  Low,  semi-denuded  hills  mark  the 
sky-fine;  many  cosmos  flowers  enliven  the  scene  in  summer. 
The  few  stations  (4  M.  GoryHdOf  7  M.  Soshay  11  M.  Fuheij  and 
14  M.  Shtum)  are  uninteresting.  The  sea  is  visible  at  the  left, 
and  near  it  are  vast  salt  basins  operated  by  the  Gov't.  17  M. 
ChukeUf  a  suburban  station,  is  nearer  to  the  E.  end  of  Che- 
mul'po  (and  to  the  business  quarter)  than  the  terminal  station 
a  mile  farther  on.  The  road  from  here  to  the  town  (jinriki,  15 
sen)  leads  up  the  hill  at  the  left  and  passes  beneath  the  big 
stone  arch  near  the  summit;  the  town  is  then  descried  on  the 
slope  beyond.  The  port  is  rapidly  expanding  in  the  direction 
of  Chukenj  and  many  dwellmgs  now  cover  the  hill-slopes; 
those  which  crown  the  summit  of  the  big  hill  behind  which 
Ckemvlpo  lies,  are  the  homes  of  foreigners. 

18  M.  Chemtilpo,  an  important  and  thriving  port  in  Kyong- 
Kwi  Province,  on  an  estuary  of  the  Han  River  overlooking  the 
Yellow  Sea,  on  the  W.  coast  in  lat.  37**  28'  30"  N.  and  long. 
126°  37'  E.  of  Greenwich,  is  known  for  its  fine  climate,  splendid 
situation,  sheltered  harbor,  and  charming  sea  views.  Until  it 
was  opened  to  foreign  trade  (in  1883)  by  the  treaty  with  Japan, 
it  was  an  insignificant  fishing-village;  to-day  upward  of  3000 
steamships  and  sailing-vessels  anchor  in  its  harbor  each  year, 
and  its  annual  trade  amounts  to  25  million  yen  —  two  thirds 
of  which  are  imports.  It  is  often  referred  to  as  the  Yokohama 
of  Korea,  and  the  pro^essiveness  of  its  merchants  (the  largest 
importing  and  exportmg  house  is  that  of  W,  D.  Towneendj  of 
Boston,  U.S.A.)  warrants  the  name.  Of  the  40,000  inhabs.,  a 
third  are  Japanese,  and  but  a  small  percentage*  foreigners.  A 
number  of  Chinese  merchants  have  hangs  here.  The  best  known 
among  these  (Steward  &  Co.)  operate  the  HoUl  Steward^  where 
plain  food  and  lodgings  are  available  at  ¥3  a  day..  English 
spoken. — Jinaen CltS>  Hotel,  same  rate.  Ships  of  the  Osaka  Sho' 
senKaisha  (OsaJcorJinsen  Line)  leave  twice  a  week  for  (731 M.) 
Osaka)  (fare,  ¥27),  and  call  at  other  ports.  Those  of  the  Naga- 
saki-Dairen  Line  (to  Nagasaki,  ¥17;  to  Dairen,  ¥18)  call 
weekly.  Passengers  are  landed  free  in  the  company  launch.  — 
Sept.  and  Oct.  are  the  best  months  for  a  visit.  Bright  frosty 
weather  usually  prevails  in  Jan.,  with  snow  at  intervals  be- 
tween Sept.  and  Mardi.  Fogs  are  frequent  off  the  coast  from 
March  to  July,  but  are  comparatively  rare  from  Oe\..  ^^"^  ^ .  — 
The  town  rises  back  up  the  slope  of  the  iQiiSl  ixom  \Xv<&  «a:^<i  vsA 
from  the  bouses  perched  near  tne  summit  sapetb  ^e^&o^as^^  ^^ 
obtained.    Tbe  BriHsh  Constdate  stands  Oft  ^Jbie  cxobX.  oi  ^»» 


752    Route  48.     SEOUL  TO  SHINGISHO 

ridge,  and  hard  by  is  the  Chemvlpo  Clubf  with  British  and 
American  members.  The  island  one  sees  straight  out  in  tibe 
bay  is  Observation  Island;  between  it  and  the  shore  the  Gov't 
IS  making  harbor  improvements,  to  cost  4  million  yen.  Getsur 
bitd  Islomd  is  i  nautical  mile  to  the  W.  The  Bank  of  Cfiosen 
has  a  branch  here,  and  there  are  a  number  of  small  shops.  The 
j-water  (filtered  throu^  sand)  is  sui>po8ed  to  be  good, 
but  prudent  travelers  will  boil  it  before  imbibing  it.  The  water- 
worios  were  installed  in  1908,  and  water  is  drawn  from  a  point 
on  the  Han  River  3  M.  from  Seoul  (near  Tuhuaon),  There  are 
few  points  of  special  interest  in  or  near  Chemulpo;  the  Intemor 
tional  Park  is  about  i  M.  east  of  the  rW.  station;  the  DaijinqH 
Shrine  (Shinto y  p.  ccxiv)  f  M.  to  the  E.  The  first  shot  in  the 
Japan-Russia  War  was  fired  in  Chemulpo  Harbor  Feb.  8, 1904, 
when  the  Japanese  fleet  of  7  cruisers  appeared  off  the  entrance 
and  discovered  the  Russian  men-of-war  Variag  and  Korietz 
anchored  therein.  The  Korietz  attempted  to  escape  to  Port 
Arthur,  but  was  intercepted.  When  advised  by  the  Japanese 
admiral  that  if  they  did  not  leave  the  harbor  at  once  they  would 
be  attacked  at  their  anchorage,  the  ships  steamed  out,  but 
soon  crept  back  riddled  and  worthless  wrecks. 

48.  From  Seoul  vii,  Eaijd,  Edshil  (Kenjiho),  Heijd  (Chin- 
nampd)  to  Shingishfl  (Antung). 

Seoul-Shingishil  Line. 

309  M.  Several  trains  daily  (from  Nandaimon  Statum)  in  about  10-12  bra. 
Tbe  tendency  is  to  increase  tbe  speed  and  reduce  tbe  time.  Fare,  1st.  d., 
¥15.45;  2d  cl..  ¥10.82;  3d  cl.,  ¥6.18.  witb  an  added  15  sen  toll  for  crossing 
tbe  Yaiu  Bridge  to  ArUung-heien.  Dining-cars  are  carried  on  tbrougb  ex- 
press trains.  Little  or  notbing  to  eat  is  sold  at  wayside  stations.  Tbe  line  is 
a  continuation  of  tbat  from  Fusan.  Elevations  range  from  500  to  2000  ft. 

Seoul,  see  p.  734.  The  train  runs  out  through  the.  Ryazan 
suburb,  then  bears  toward  the  N.W.  and  traverses  a  carefully 
cultivated  countnr  flecked  with  villages  overlooking  vallevs 
sown  to  rice;  fine  hills  delimn  the  plains,  and  the  region  looks 
productive.  The  iron  in  the  soil  imparts  a  brick-red  color  to  it, 
and  contrasts  sharply  with  the  green  herbage.  As  we  go  up  the 
low  valleys  we  get  sweeping  views  of  the  lofty  lateralspurs  of 
the  Paih-tu  Mts.    Despite  their  nearness  to  the  capital  the 
peasantry  live  as  primitively  as  men  of  the  flint  age,  and  but  a 
shade  better  than  cliff-dwellers.  Some  of  the  huls  are  brown 
and  bare,  and  are  seamed  by  watercourses  that  have  uncov- 
ered outcroppings  of  auriferous  rocks.  Beyond  the  unimpor- 
tant station  of  (6  M.)  Suishoku  the  grade  slopes  gentlv  upward 
and  culminates  in  a  tunnel  piercing  some  tumbled  hills  cov- 
ered with  scrub  pines  and  Pa^ilcyumvi  imperialis.  Tall  poplars 
Bank  certain  of  tbe  gram-^dda,  «cA«XaX^l\«sN8QA€ah  in  the 
floLtary  Daddies.  16M.IcK^mu,*2aU.K^mw.,'»^\^.,^^wa^ 
pntheRinshin  Rixer.  T\iea\iafci^c»ol  \fcTSi^>»^^^S«^ 


Songdo.  EAUO  4S,  Route.    753 

the  landscape  attracts  the  attention  of  travelers  from  Japan. 
Before  36  M.  ChdtaUf  we  cross  the  wide  Han  River  on  an  8- 
span  steel  bridge.  Considerable  ginseng  is  cultivated  round- 
aoout  and  plots  of  the  bizarre  plants  protected  from  the  sun 
by  mats  spread  on  framework  dot  the  landscape.  Niunerous 
saucy  black-and-white  magpies  add  voice  and  motion  to  the 
region,  the  trees  on  the  hill-slopes  of  which  are  as  thinly  scat- 
tered as  the  hairs  of  a  Korean's  beard.  The  grEinite  monu- 
ments flanking  the  roads  approaching  big  towns  are  memorials 
supposed  to  have  been  erected  by  fateful  citizens  to  the  mem- 
o^  of  departing  magistrates  (but  m  most  cases  erected  by  the 
officials  themselves  —  lest  the  public  forget!). 

46  M.  Kaijo  ( Kaisongy  or  Songdo)  ^  anciently  the  seat  of  the 
Korai  Dynasty^  and  capital  of  the  peninsula  from  a.d.  960  to 
1392,  has  60,000  inhabs.  and  is  curiously  mediaeval.  Inn: 
KaiworKwany  ¥3.  Much  of  the  coarse  cotton  cloth  which 
forms  the  national  dress  is  made  here,  along  with  a  crude  earth- 
enware called  Korai-yaJd.  The  city  is  a  great  ginseng  mart, 
and  many  of  the  ancient  customs  unafifected  by  modem  prog- 
ress prevail.  Along  the  narrow,  dirty  streets  go  many  curi- 
ously clad  men  and  women,  the  latter  often  wrapped  in  white 
sheets  gathered  round  their  heads  and  reaching  to  their  heels. 
When  the  breeze  Alls  these  ghostly  habiliments  and  makes 
temporary  balloons  of  them,  they  are  almost  as  bizarre  as  the 
pink  garments  and  curious  yellow  hats  of  the  boy  bridegrooms, 
or  the  peaked  and  scalloped  hats  and  sackcloth  coverings  of 
professional  mourners.  The  old  metropolis  is  a  large,  smelly 
place  in  which  the  stranger  will  not  be  prevailed  upon  to  lineer. 
The  piles  of  slender  dri^  fish  (called  Mintai)  which  one  often 
sees  on  the  rly.  station  platform  come  from  the  N.  province, 
and  form  a  staple  article  of  Korean  diet.  The  Bokven  Water' 
faUy  7^  M.  to  the  N.,  thou^  regarded  as  a  local  wonder,  is 
of  no  interest  to  travelers;  likewise  the  ruins  of  an  old  palace 
{Keitokukyd)  li  M.  to  the  S. 

Beyond  the  tunnel  which  is  passed  just  N.  of  Kaijd  the  line 
winds  through  the  hills,  on  the  lower  slopes  of  which  are  some 
quaint  brick-kilns  constructed  in  the  form  of  a  series  of  low 
tomb-like  ovens  with  a  tall  draft  chimney  in  the  center  at  the 
apex  of  two  converging  nests.  The  near-by  hills  are  granitic  in 
structure  and  from  them  comes  some  of  the  splendid  granite 
with  which  the  rly.  tunnels  are  lined.  Great  blotches  of  wild 
iris  deck  the  hill-slopes  in  late  spring.  The  cave-like  mud  ovens 
on  the  hilb  are  used  for  burning  charcoal.  52  M.  Dqjd,  61  M. 
Keiaei.  68  M.  Kinko,  75  M.  Kampo,  The  grade  is  steadiljr 
upward,  between  hills  which  shelter  fair  valleys  and  necessi- 
tate numerous  tunnels.  Good  views.  The  villages  which  dot  Uu& 
valleys  own  the  fields  and  till  them  coTnm\n\\Rt\ca!l\'^ ',  qpfe  ^\«a. 
sees  in  the  men  and  women  of  a  commumty  out  m  KSoib  ^si^^'^ 
working  side  by  side;  ploughing,  sowing,  or  Teap\n%>3b»^a»arq«^» 


754    Route  48.  HEUO  Ping  Yang. 

in  a  crude  Utopian  way.  The  summer  climate  of  the  sheltered 
valleys  is  cool ;  the  winter  wheat  does  not  ripen  until  June.  Thi^ 
rich,  reddish,  alluvial  soil  produces  bountifully.  The  many 
pheasants  are  practically  unhunted,  and  the  hills  often  echo  to 
the  metallic  skurl  of  the  male  bird  and  the  answering  note  of  liis 
dowdy  mate.  Serrated  mt.  ranges  peer  shyly  above  the  distant 
horizon  and  add  beautv  to  a  productive  country  dappled  with 
forlorn  and  melancholy  hainlets.  The  people  are  so  unim- 
pressed by  the  leaven  of  progress  gradually  chan^g  their 
country,  that  to  foreigners  they  look  very  primitive,  ignorant, 
and  shaoby.  And  this  impression  is  accentuated  by  the  mock 
dignity  of  the  grimy,  wretchedly  poor,  but  nevertheless  pom- 
pous, yang-bans  one  occasionally  sees.  The  majority  of  the 
native  huts  are  roofed  with  mouldy  straw,  and  there  are  no 
attractive  granges;  nothing  to  betoken  home  comforts,  per- 
sonal prosperity  or  intellectual  or  moral  advancement.  The 
coimtiy  is  so  big  that  the  few  inhabitants  rattle  round  in  it  like 
a  handful  of  peas  in  a  big  kettle,  and  their  tawdry  possessions 
suggest  nomadic  rather  than  fixed  ways.  Their  wretched  dwell- 
ings are  as  poorly  equipped  to  withstand  the  rigors  of  winter 
as  they  are  to  protect  the  inmates  against  the  attacks  of  Uie 
predatory  tigers  that  infest  the  environing  hills.  —  Beyond 
84  M.  Nanserif  the  unimportant  stations  of  SvkkauShinwakUf 
Zuikdf  Kosuif  Seikeiy  Bado,  (125  M.)  Shariin  in  a  nne  rice  dis- 
trict, and  Chinson.  are  passed.  140  M.Koshu,  in  Hwang- Hai 
Province,  is  linkea  by  a  branch  line  to  9  M.  Kenjihoy  an  unin- 
teresting port  on  the  Tai-dong  Delta.  —  147  M.  Kokkyo.  151 
M.  Chuwa.  156  M.  Rihiho,  The  Tai-dong  is  crossed  on  a  6- 
span  steel  bridge,  then  again  on  one  of  5  spans.  The  many  sail- 
boats which  glance  up  and  down  the  nver  suggest  those  of 
China. 

162  M.  Heij6  {Phyong  Yang,  or  Ping  Yang),  a  sometime 
celebrated  city  (Inns:   Yanagiya;  Mine;  Sakura-ya.  all  from 
¥3  and  upward)  with  41,000  inhabs.  (11,000  of  which  are  Jap- 
anese) in  South' Phyong- An  Province,  on  the  N.  bank  of  the 
Tai-dong  50  M.  from  its  mouth,  is  one  of  the  oldest  cities  in 
Korea;  here  Ki  Tse  the  traditional  founder  of  Korea  is  said  to 
have  established  his  capital  in  b.c.  1122,  and  the  credulous  still 
point  out  traces  of  the  original  walls  as  well  as  the  founder's 
tomb  (3}  M.  to  the  N.E.).   History  records  that  the  old  city 
became  the  capital  of  Korai  in  the  6th  cent.,  and  that  when 
Korai  fell  it  was  the  center  from  which  the  Chinese  prefects 
administered  the  afifairs  of  the  conquered  provinces.  Its  Chi- 
nese characteristics  still  show  in  the  old  walls,  forts,  and  gates; 
the  prosession  of  which  has  been  the  cause  of  many  sanguin- 
ary struggles  between  Mon<gDlB  and  Manchus,  Koreans  and 
Japanese.    HideyosMs  araay  wa^et  Kwii&Vx  YvkinoQa  cap- 
tured the  city  in  1592,  aadeo\>aXXfei«^«£A\«sjjp.^^\\.\« 
the  Japanese  in  the  great  battXe  ol  ^^V>.  \^  A^^^  esflMatSk«. 


Coal  Mines.  CmNNAMPO  48.  R(nde.  756 

ChinarJapan  War,  that  of  its  reputed  80,000  inhabs.,  all  but 
15,000  fled  or  were  killed.  The  fine  monolith  on  one  of  the 
knolls  within  the  walls  commemorates  the  168  Japanese  killed  in 
this  engagement.  For  many  years  Ping  Yang  bore  an  unenvi- 
able reputation  as  a  sort  of  Sodom,  and  it  is  yet  spoken  of  as 
the  wickedest  city  in  the  peninsula.  To  Koreans  its  Very  name 
suggests  beautiful  women,  wealth,  and  licentiousness.  Its 
scorn  for  religion  and  missionaries  was  notorious  prior  to  its 
last  downfall,  but  many  of  the  latter  reside  there  now  and  do 
good  work.  Though  squahd  and  dismal  from  the  foreign  view- 
point, it  is  one  of  the  most  picturesquely  situated  capitals  of 
Korea.  It  spreads  over  a  lofty  bluff  rising  abruptly  from  the 
Tai-dong,  which  here  is  bright,  swift,  clear,  and  1200  ft.  wide. 
The  many  Chinese  junks  and  smaller  craft  which  glance  up  and 
down  its  sparkling  surface,  and  the  scores  of  great  timber  rafts 
which  come  down  from  its  upper  reaches  in  summer^  are  of  un- 
failing interest.  The  old  Chmese  wall  20  ft.  high  climbs  like  a 
sinuous  dragon  from  the  River  Gate  with  its  decorated  pavilion, 
and  winds  over  the  hills  like  that  of  Seovl.  The  views  from 
certain  of  the  old  forts  which  crown  the  loopholed,  battle- 
mented,  decaying  relic  are  magnificent  and  far-reaching.  From 
one  of  these  vantage-points  the  city  below  is  seen  to  be  some- 
what in  shape  like  a  Korean  boat^  and  because  of  this,  the 
credulous  natives  dig  no  wells  within  the  walls,  believing  that 
by  so  doing  the  bottom  will  be  pierced  and  the  boat  wilTsink. 
The  Korean  vices  of  slothfulness  and  filth  are  reflected  in  all 
the  narrow,  tortuous  streets,  and  httle  remains  of  the  wealth, 
decoration,  fine  edifices  and  the  like  to  remind  the  traveler  of 
the  one-time  power  and  charm  of  the  old  metropolis.  The 
decorations  of  the  tottering  temple  of  the  God  of  War,  once 
reputed  the  finest  in  Korea,  are  now  faded  and  neglected.  The 
Japanese  are  striving  to  modernize  the  city,  and  many  of  the 
newer  buildings,  along  with  the  waterworks,  are  due  to  their 
efforts.  The  fertile  region  roundabout  is  now  made  to  produce 
considerable  silk  and  ginseng,  and  the  celebrated  Ping  Ycmg 
Coal  Mines  are  the  largest  in  Korea.  Americans  Isuow  the  city 
in  connection  with  the  atrocious  murder  of  the  crew  of  the 
American  schooner  General  Sherman,  as  it  lay  at  anchor  in 
the  river  in  1866.  Three  years  later,  while  Commander  J.  C. 
FebigeTf  of  the  U.S.  Ship  Shenandoah  was  lying  off  the  mouth 
of  the  river,  he  surveyed  the  inlet  and  named  it  Shenandoah. 
There  are  a  number  of  historical  sites  in  the  immediate  neigh- 
borhood, but  they  are  of  interest  only  to  Japanese  and  Koreans. 

A  branch  riy.  runs  (S.W.)  from  Ping  Yang  through  the  uninteresting 
towns  of  9  M.  Taihei,  17  M.  Kiyd,  and  25  M.  8h%nehido,to  34  M.  ChJimaiiiDO, 
(several  trains  daily  in  li  hrs.;  fare,  Ist  cL,  ¥1.70;  2d  cl.,  ¥1.19),  a  thrivmc 
port  (pop.  12,000)  on  the  Tai-dong  near  where  it  emptvea  vxi\a  V^^X^^^-ti 
Sea.    The  steamers  of  the  Osaka  Shoaen  Kaiaha  make  \t  Oi  ^^tl  <cJl  cr^ 
fweeklK)  on  its  Osaka-Antung  line  (fare  to  dsofca  ¥aO;  V>  AntvmO^^^VJ^ 
CAemiapo,  ¥9).   There  ia  a  good  landing-place  aoid  a  KraxA\»  ifV»3A»  2^2£- 
great  Salt  Basin  at  Koang-'yano  Bay  (near  CMnnampo^  ia  ovrsikSA  ttoo.cjl)**' 


756    Route  49.  MANCHURIA 

sted  by  the  Gov't  Monopoly  Bureau;  evaporation  is  the  method  enoiplogred 
and  the  annual  output  is  about  150  million  lbs.  The  vast  mud  flats  which 
the  receding  tides  leave  bare  impart  an  air  of  desolation  to  the  port.  Tlie 
chief  inns  are  the  Metgetau^  A«aAi-ikiiKin,  and  the  FuBH-kwaUt  all  managed  by 
Japanese  and  all  from  ¥3  a  day  and  upward. 

From  HeijC  the  rly.  continues  its  trend  to  the  N.W.  follow- 
ing the  sea,  but  at  some  distance  from  it;  many  of  the  villages 
are  merely  clusters  of  decaying  huts  in  a  dreary  region.  169  M. 
Seiho,  178  M.  Jun-an.  188  M.  Gyoha.  195  M.  Shukusen,  201 
M.  Banjo.  Beyond  209  M.  Shin-anahU  we  cross  the  Seiseiko 
Rwer  on  a  9-span  steel  bridge,  then  the  Daineiko  on  one  of  7 
spans,  both  upheld  by  splendidly  massive  granite  piers.  Laden 
junkq  come  up  the  rivers  from  the  adjacent  sea,  and  make 

gretty  pictures  when  they  spread  their  broad  sails  to  catch  the 
reezes  blowing  above  the  tree-tops.  Miles  of  rice-fields  are 
now  features  of  the  drenched  lowlands,  and  the  blue  herons 
(aosagi)  which  fish  in  the  shallows  look  bedraggled  and  woe- 
begone. Numerous  tunnels  mark  the  line  hence  to  (100  M.) 
the  Yalu  River,  As  we  approach  this  and  the  frontier,  the  hills 
show  more  trees,  and  the  general  aspect  of  the  country  im- 
proves. The  stations  are  small  and  uninteresting  and  are 
stopped  at  by  local  trains  only. 

309  M.  Shmgishu  (or  New  Wiju),  a  growing  Japanese  fron- 
tier town  on  the  S.  bank  of  the  broad  and  swut  Yalu  River,  in 
North- Phyong- An  Province,  is  the  terminus  of  the  main  line  of 
the  Korean  Rly.  and  is  about  2  M.  from  the  old  Korean  Wiju. 
The  ShingishU  Station  Hotel  (En^ish  spoken)  is  similar  to  that 
in  the  (588  M.)  Fusan  Station  and  is  under  the  rly.  management. 
There  are  8  comfortable  bedrooms  and  the  food  is  better  than 
one  will  ^et  elsewhere  in  the  neighborhood.  Spanning  the  river 
and  linkm^  the  town  to  the  Manchurian  town  oi  Antung-fisien 
(Antoken)  is  the  longest  pivot-bridge  in  the  Far  East.  It  was 
begun  in  1909  from  the  Chinese  side,  cost  ¥l,753j308,  and  was 
completed  and  opened  to  traflSc  in  Oct.,  1911.  It  is  36  ft.  wide, 
with  a  10  ft.  path  for  pedestrians  (toll,  15  sen  per  person),  with  6 
spans  of  200  ft.,  6  of  300,  and  1  of  306.  The  draw  is  opened  twice 
daily  to  allow  vessels  to  pass  up  and  down.  A  picturesque  pro- 
cession of  Koreans,  Chinese,  Russians,  Japanese,  and  mongrels 
cross  the  bridge,  which  is  a  ^aceful  and  permanent  monument 
to  the  skill  of  Japanese  engineers. 

49.  Manchuria  and  the  Trans-Siberian  Railway. 

Manchuria.  Antunff  (Inns:  Oempo-kuxm;  Fukuzumi,  both  ¥3.50)  stands 
on  the  bank  of  the  YcUu  at  the  foot  of  a  low  range  of  hills,  in  a  picturesque 
environment.  Pop.  15,000.  Manchurian  time  is  1  hr.  slower  than  that  of 
£orea,  and  watches  should  be  put  back  an  hr.  The  custom-house  is  oper- 
ated Jointly  by  Chinese  and  3ap«n«ee.  TbL«  luggage  of  travelers  bound  for 


intervals  for  Korean  coast  potUi  wid  Owifca  v.\w^  ^**v   vt«x  hl^imk^. 


Vladwoatok.  MANCHURIA  49.  Route.    757 

Antung  branch  of  the  South  Manchxtbia  Railway  (a  link  in  the  Tran9~Si- 
berian  Rte.  referred  to  hereinafter)  runs  N.  (daily  expresses  in  about  8  hrs.; 
fare,  ¥10.35,  Ist  ol.)  to  (170  M.)  Mukden  (Fengtien),  where  main  line  trains 
come  in  from  (246  M;  time,  about  8  hrs.;  fare,  ¥14.95)  Dairen  (Z>ainy),  the 
S.  terminus  (39  M.,  in  I'i  hrs.  from  Pobt  Abthub).  The  Yamato  Hotel,  at 
Dairen,  is  uiider  the  riy.  management;  rooms  only,  from  ¥2  to  ¥15  a  day. 
Breakfast,  ¥1;  Tiffin,  ¥1.50;  Dinner,  ¥1.75.  Reduction  for  2  pen.  in  one 
room,  and  for  a  long  stay.  The  Rly.  Co.  also  operates  a  regular  steamship  ser- 
vice to  (597  M.)  Shanghai  (fare.  ¥40, 1st  d.;  ¥25,  2d  d.).  MaU  steamers  of 
the  OaaJca  Shosen  Kaiaha  leave  twice  weekly  for  (860  M.)  Kobe  (in  4  days; 
fare,  ¥42).  To  Sh%tnono8eki,^^36.  To  Naffosaki.^fSO.  The  Kobe-Korea-NoHh- 
China  Line  of  the  Nippon  Yusen  Kaiaha  makes  of  Dairen  a  regular  port  of 
call.  —  From  Mukden  (  YanuUo  Hotel;  same  rates  as  at  Dairen)  the  rly. 
runs  N.E.  over  a  rolling  country  to  189  M.  (436  from  Dairen)  Changchun 
(fare,  ¥11.50,  1st  cl.),  the  terminus  of  the  South, Manchuria  Rly.,  and  start- 
ing-point of  the  Chinese  Eaatem  Rly.,  which  proceeds  N.  to  (152  M.;  fare, 
rouhlea  9.60)  Harbin,  where  it  merges  with  the  TranaSiberianRly.  and  goes  £. 
(876  versts)  to  its  supposed  terminus  at  Manchuria  Station.  The  regulations 
on  the  SoiTTH  Manchubia  Rlt.  are  similar  to  those  on  the  Korean  line, 
with  dining-  and  sleeping-cars,  an  extra  fare  on  express  trains,  etc.  Japanese 
money  is  the  best  circulating  medium  in  Manchuria  (so  termed  from  the 
leading  race  which  dwells  there,  the  Mandjura  or  Mantua). 

The  Trans-Siberian  Railway,  which  comes  into  Harbin  (under  the  official 
title  of  (IIhinese  Eastbbn  Railway)  from  Vladivoatok  (729  versts  at  the 
E.  (comp.  p.  546),  stretches  W.  to  (7402  versts,  or  about  4900  M.)  Moacow, 
where  it  extends  through  Poland  and  connects  with  the  rly.  systems  of  Ger- 
many, France,  and  Belgium.  Small  steamers  carry  travelers  from  Ostend 
(and  other  points)  across  the  narrow  channel  to  England,  just  as  do  others 
across  the  Korea  Channel  to  the  Idand  Empire  of  Japan.  Prom  Moscow  to 
London  is  1890  M.,  and  from  London  to  Yokohama.  vi&  Korea  and  Shimo- 
noseki,  is  87(X)  M.  The  following  references  have  been  made  for  the  con- 
venience of  travelers  bound  from  the  Far  East  to  Europe,  who  may  wish  to 
compare  the  expenses  of  both  routes  and  get  as  much  as  possible  for  their 
money  and  out  of  their  journey.  The  rly.  lacks  the  touristic  value  afforded 
by  the  brilliant  and  colorful  Oriental  ports  touched  at  by  steamers  between 
Europe  and  Japan,  and  the  14  days'  journey  by  rail  costs  about  as  much  as 
the  45  days'  steamer  trip  with  its  more  vivid  charm  and  variety.  The  rly. 
(passport  necessary)  is  used  chiefly  as  an  expedient  by  persons  pressed  for 
time,  and  by  those  already  familiar  with  the  ports  (comp.  p.  xv)  in  ques- 
tion. The  vast  silent  plains  of  Manchuria,  crossed  here  and  there  by  tawny 
rivers  and  marked  at  rare  intervals  by  mean  little  Mongolian  towns,  offer 
few  picturesque  features  save  an  occasional  camel-caravan  or  a  dirty  en- 
campment of  nomad  Tartars.  They  recall  certain  characterless  stretches  of 
New  Mexico,  and  though  enlivened  by  wild  flowers  in  summer,  they  are  usu- 
ally sustainedl^  wearisome.  The  lonely  Siberian  taiffa,  with  its  gloomy  for- 
ests studded  with  fire-scorched  trees  that  suggest  the  blasted  hopes  of  politi- 
cal exiles,  is  less  interesting  than  the  wide  undulating  steppes,  which  stretch 
in  sad  monotony  for  a  thousand  miles  to  Chelic^inak.  Even  here  the  solemn 
hills  are  without  majesty,  and  the  unpeopled  plains  soon  become  tiresome  to 
the  eye.  Instead  of  leadiing  straight  across  the  continent,  the  rly.  twists  and 
turns  and  runs  over  dumpy  hiUs,  and  through  scores  of  tunnels  and  unculti- 
vated valleys,  marked  b^  a  tedious  uniformity.  Lake  Baikal  (the  Holy  Sea), 
600  versts  long  by  80  wide,  and  3000  ft.  deep  near  its  S.  point,  though  one  of 
the  largest  fresh-water  lakes  in  the  world,  is  also  one  of  the  loneliest,  and  its 
mountainous  environment  (4500  ft.  hi^h)  is  grim  rather  than  picturesque. 
The  Ural  Mta.,  a  sort  of  natural  bamer  between  the  plains  of  European 
Russia  and  those  of  Western  Siberia,  are  of  an  average  height  of  1500  ft.  — 
mere  foothills  when  compared  with  the  Canadian  Rockies  or  the  snow-olad 
giants  of  Japan.  Barring  magnificent  Moscow,  which  is  in  every  way  wor- 
thy of  the  traveler's  attention,  none  of  the  wayside  dties  possess  vitality, 
sprightUness,  or  color,  and  their  cheerless  aspect  depresses  rather  than  at- 
tracts one.  The  inhosi^itable  towns,  with  their  log  oabina  wui  iMaiiitey^a^ 
are  pictures  of  desolation,  and  are  almost  as  aaddemx^  «a  V^^XAnmi*^)^ 
whiskered,  aodden,  slattenily  people,  who  somehow  xeimxxd  ota  ciiynf^^^ 
/roja  s  land  yet  in  the  Stone  Age.  Poverty-striokeii,  cniib»d,  4«B»"'«n**fc'^»" 


758    Route  49.    TRANS-SIBERIAN  RLY.  Timfw. 

Bpair,  and  with  no  knowledge  of  the  outer  world,  of  a  rasor,  a  handkerchief, 
or  a  toothbrush,  they  drain  one's  sympathies  to  the  dregs;  particularly  the 
poor,  bedraggled  children  clad  in  their  elders'  ragged  clothes;  and  the  over^ 
worked  mothers  with  their  sorrow-lined  faces.  Highly  picturesque  features 
are  the  occasional  squads  of  cavalry  careering  across  the  steppes,  the  agile 
young  men  standing  upright  in  their  saddles  and  singing  in  stentorian  and 
musical  voices.  Except  in  the  brightest  of  bright  weather  the  country  is 
somber.  The  half-famished  dogs  which  skulk  about  the  stations  for  some- 
thing to  eat,  look  suspiciously  like  wolves,  and  the  shaggy  horses  hitched  to 
the  troikas  are  as  unkempt  as  their  hairy  drivers.  The  station  signs,  etc., 
are  all  in  Russian.  Apparently  no  thought  is  taken  for  the  foreign  traveler. 

The  Trains  of  the  International  Sleeping-Car  Co.  (several  expresses  each 
week)  run  easily  and  comfortably,  and  accommodate  1st  and  2d  cl.  passen- 
gers only.  The  steam-heated,  electric-lighted  cars  are  built  well  and  mas- 
sively, and  are  drawn  by  huge  home-built  wood-  or  oil-burning  locomotives 
at  an  average  speed  of  about  25  M.  an  hr.  A  side  corridor  runs  the  length  of 
the  cars,  and  opening  from  it  are  2-berth  compartments  somewhat  similar 
to  the  drawing-room  of  a  PvUman.  The  1st  cl.  are  7  by  7  ft.  inside,  with  a 
lengthwise  couch  3^  ft.  wide  which  makes  ui>  into  a  narrow  bed.  Crosswise 
above  the  windows  is  another  similar  bed  which  folds  agMnst  the  wall  in  the 
daytime.  The  sheets  are  so  skimpy  that  a  restless  sleeper  often  wakes  to  fi[nd 
himself  on  the  mattress  (6  ft.  2  in.  long  by  28  in.  wide).  Between  every  two 
compartments  is  a  restricted  wash-room  used  by  the  occupants  of  both.  The 
soap  is  bad;  the  towels  are  sleazy,  but  a  trifle  larger  than  handkerchiefs,  and 
are  renewed  reluctantly.  At  the  end  of  the  2f  ft.  aisle  of  each  compart- 
ment are  two  windows  (22  by  28  in.),  and  between  them  and  the  end  of  the 
couch  on  one  side,  and  an  auxiliary  seat  opposite,  is  a  collapsible  wall-tablb 
14  in.  wide  by  23  in.  long.  Hand-luggage  can  be  stowed  beneath  this  seat 
and  in  a  space  above  the  door.  The  lavatories  at  the  end  of  the  aisle  are  medi- 
SBval.  The  cars  between  Moscow  and  Warsaw  are  less  commodious,  and 
thence  to  Ostend  are  even  more  restricted,  with  no  room  for  much  hand- 
luggage. — The  2d  cl.  compartments  (same  train)  accommodate  4  pers.  (lim- 
ited number  of  2-berth  rooms)  and  differ  but  little  from  the  1st  cl.,  beyond 
having  smaller  windows  and  no  individual  wash-rooms.  The  fee  of  the  Rus- 
sian-German-French-speaking conductor  superintending  the  car  is  custo- 
marily 3  roubles  between  Changchun  and  Irkoutsk,  5  roubles  thence  to  Mos- 
cow,  and  the  equivalent  of  5  to  Ostend.  Trains  make  long  stops  at  stations 
and  are  started  by  the  triple  ringing  of  a  bell  at  short  intervals.  The  3d 
warning  follows  the  2d  almost  immediately,  and  the  train  pulls  out  forth- 
with. As  to  be  left  at  a  Siberian  station  is  almost  equivalent  'to  falling  over- 
board from  a  steamship  in  mid-ocean,'  travelers  should  not  stray  too  far  from 
the  train. 

Because  of  limited  accommodations  reservations  must  be  made  weeks  in 
advance  (particularly  in  May-June).  Travel  to  Europe  is  heavier  Uian  in 
the  opposite  direction.  Winter  travel  is  light,  and  heavy  furs  are  necessary 
(to  prevent  frost-bite)  when  one  alights  at  stations.  Snow  remains  on  some 
of  the  hills  till  late  June,  and  wraps  are  comfortable.  July  and  Aug.  are 
warm  —  with  many  mosquitoes.  A  few  only  of  the  dining-cars  are  equipped 
with  small  libraries  (in  which  French  novels  predominate) .  The  deposit  of 
3  roubles  is  returned  at  the  end  of  the  journey.  Neither  books  nor  papers 
are  sold  on  trains,  and  travelers  are  advised  to  stock  up  in  Japan  before  leav- 
ing. Books  and  magazines  are  carefully  scrutinized  when  entering  Russia 
from  Europe,  and  are  sometimes  confiscated.  Maps  are  regarded  with  sus- 
picion, as  also  are  playing-cards,  which  are  refiiiaed  admittance  to  State 
trains.  At  the  German  frontier  travelers  are  asked  if  they  have  tea,  tobacco, 
or  chocolate. 

Tickets  are  on  sale  by  the  numerous  agents  of  the  I.S.C.  Co. ;  at  the  largest 
stations  on  the  Japanese  Gov't  Rlys.,  and  by  Thos.  Cook  &  Son.  A  deposit 
of  ¥100  is  usually  exacted  when  reservations  are  made,  and  should  the  trav- 
eler decide  later  to  go  some  other  way  the  money  is  refunded,  provided  3 
weeks'  notice  is  given  and  the  accommodation  resold  for  the  entire  Journey. 
Travelers  for  points  beyond  Moacov  a\io\M'vDsaa\.>4?QQw  the  selling-agent  re- 
serving oompartments  in  the  connBctVmt  V^wmv  \»  ^^sCvoswW.  ^«st  «lu>uld 


Money.         TRANS-SIBERIAN  RLY.       49,  Route.     769 

this  IB  often  crowded,  and  the  transfer  involves  inconveniences,  fees,  and 
difficulties  with  hand-luggage. 

Fares  from  Yokohama  viA  Korea-Manchuria-Moscow-Ostend  to  London, 
including  a  single  berth  (no  room  for  a  child)  in  a  2-berth  compartment  (con- 
siderably more  for  its  exclusive  use)  to  Ostend  are:  ¥518.64, 1st  cl. ;  ¥356.71, 
2d  cl.  (¥521.06  and  ¥336.45  vi&  Tauruga-Vladivoatok) .  A  child  between 
4  and  12  yrs.  of  age,  ¥252.37 and  ¥177.34  (and  ¥253.34  and  ¥166.79).  Fares 
are  higher  in  the  Trains  de  Luxe  from  Moscow.  A  trip  vi&  St.  Petersburg 
costs  about  4%  more  than  the  above  amounts.  To  Berlin  (vi&  Korea) 
¥464.04,  1st  cl,  and  ¥319.46,  2d  cl.  —  To  Paris,  ¥513.08  and  ¥352.92. 
Fares  in  the  Russian  State  Trains,  which  run  daily,  make  good  time,  and  are 
not  uncomfortable  for  men  willing  to  submit  to  minor  inconveniences,  are 
about  35%  less  than  the  above.  The  guards  speak  Russian  only  and  some- 
times are  of  an  almost  inconceivable  mental  density.  The  compartments 
hold  4  persons.  The  food  is  sometimes  good.  There  are  no  individual  lava- 
tories. Ladies  should  travel  with  an  escort  or  in  parties  of  4 — a  compartment 
full. 

In  comparing  the  Cost  of  the  rly.  trip  with  the  steamer  voyage  the  econom- 
ical traveler  will  wish  to  bear  in  mind  that  while  on  shipboard  extras  are 
few  and  are  represented  usually  by  luxuries  which  one  can  forego,  on  the  rly. 
they  are  many  and  are  made  necessary.  By  drinking  the  doubtful  water  on 
the  train  and  being  satisfied  with  the  illusory  food  served  in  the  dining-car 
at  the  fixed  price  of  roubles  3.30  a  day  (in  Russia;  higher  in  Manchuria  and 
beyond  Moscow),  one  can  get  over  the  13  days  from  Fusan  to  Ostend  with 
an  approximate  outlay  (including  the  customary  10%  tip  to  the  waiter)  of 
about  ¥60,  but  the  average  traveler  will  feel  obliged  to  double  this.  The 
difference  in  the  rly.  gauge  (5  ft.  in  Russia;  4  ft.  81  in.  in  Manchuria)  makes 
several  changes  of  cars  (at  Changchun;  Irkoutsk;  Moscow;  Warsaw)  necessary, 
and  the  consequent  porters'  fees  occasioned  by  these,  and  the  frequent  re- 
weighing  and  re-checking  of  luggage,  will  easily  average  ¥10.  If  one  has  much 
excess  baggage  above  the  stingy  allowance  (1st  or  2a  cl.)  of  110  lbs.  (60  lbs. 
only  to  points  in  {Russia),  the  outlay  will  be  heavier.  The  long  tram  ride 
makes  frequent  changes  of  clothing  necessary,  and  as  a  small  steamer-trunk 
packed  snugly  can  weigh  easily  150  lbs.,  and  as  Americans  rarely  travel  with 
less  than  2  or  3  trunks,  the  transportation  of  these  over  the  rly.  becomes  com- 
plex and  costly.  Extra  luggage  from  Yokohama  to  London  is  diarged  for 
{roubles  9.67  for  22  Russian  lbs. » 20  EngUsh  lbs.)  at  approximately  $25 
(U.S.  money)  per  100  lbs.  To  avoid  this,  travelers  usually  deliver  all  excess 
(weeks  in  advance  imless  one  wishes  to  wait  at  the  other  end  for  its  arrival) 
to  a  shipping-agent  to  be  sent  bv  freight  (passenger  steamer  advisable)  viA 
Suez  (time  to  London  about  45  days),  at  an  a];>proximate  cost  ^or  2  medium 
trunks)  of  ¥30  (which  includes  packing,  shipping,  marine  freight,  insurance, 
clearing,  customs,  dock,  and  other  dues  at  deBtmation)  —  the  usual  freight 
charge  being  (minimum  of  one  ^[uinea)  about  50  shillings  per  ton  (weight  or 
measurement,  at  the  ship's  option). 

A  puerile  awkwardness,  and  a  lack  of  systematic  flexibility  is  apparent  in 
the  rly.,  operations.  Constant  vigilance  is  required  to  prevent  luggage  being 
lost  or  left  behind,  and  only  the  daring  will  trust  their  trunks '  in  bond.'  Dis- 
order reigns  in  the  baggage-rooms  where  luggage  is  weighed  and  examined, 
and  besides  pajring  a.  transit  charge  of  2  roublesfoT  each  trunk,  the  traveler 
must  also  pay  the  porter  for  putting  them  back  on  the  train.  When  check- 
ing baggage  to  London,  the  traveler  ediould  indicate  at  which  station  (Char- 
ing Cross  is  nearest  to  the  Hotel  Cecil  and  others  off  Trafalgar  Square)  he 
propod6s  to  alight.  The  Russians'  genius  for  *  squeeses'  usually  enables  them 
to  mulct  the  traveler  (passports,  tips,  etc.)  several  times  before  he  is  released 
at  the  German  frontier.  The  baths  (inconveniently  situated  in  the  baggage- 
car)  cost  2i  roubles!  The  private  cabins  on  the  Channel  boats  cost  14 
francs. 

Money.  About  100  or  150  rottbles  should  be  taken  for  the  Journey  for  'in- 
cidentals.' Travelers  from  Korea  will  do  well  to  dispose  of  (particularly) 
Korean  and  Japanese  money  at  the  Changchun  Station.  For  all  practicM 
purposes  a  rouble  is  equal  to  one  yen,  or  50o.  U.S.  money  (^  ^cSiiosDao>>\  ^ 
marks;  2i  francs).   The  Russian  1,  2,  5,  10, 15, 20,  and  &K^  kopeck  "^nKMi 
are  often  of  a  baae  metal  covered  with  a  tlwi  piati&e  oi  saWei.  1!Va  mv>^^ 
rmMespaaa  current  with  tbe3, 5, 10, 26,  etc.,  rouble  notes,  «ttdt\ift«sMk.xft»««»- 


760    RotUe  49.      TRANS-SIBERIAN  RLY.  FooL 

Rwgliah  gold  is  moTO  readily  oonveitible  than  bank  notes.  A  £5  note  b 
worth  approximately  ¥48.50;  100  roubles,  ¥102-4. 

The  Food  senred  in  the  dining-car  (Speise  Wagen)  is  measer,  with  few 
distinctively  Russian  dishes,  and  a  lack  of  the  generous  elceUence  of  that 
of  Eni^nd  or  Germany.  French  economy  is  practiced.  The  rather  scanty 
Ineakfost  (peHt  dSJeuner;  55  kopeeka,  in  Russia,  1  mark  25  pfennio  beyond 
Moscow)  is  a  fiction  to  an  American;  it  consists  of  1  cup  of  coffee  (or  tea  or 
chocolate)  with  hot  milk  (better  in  Russia  than  bevond  the  frontier)  and  a 
whimsical  portion  of  coarse  white  or  black  bread.  One  may  breakfast  more 
expensively  d  la  carte  by  j^urohasing  the  appetizing  Jams,  fruit,  marmalade, 
honey,  chocolate,  wine,  mineral  water,  etc.,  carefully  placed  on  the  table  at 
one's  elbow,  —  an  operation  duplicated  at  luncheon  (dijeuner)  and  dinner 
(diner).  The  former  (roubles  1.50)  is  generally  represented  (in  a  shadowy 
way)  by  cold  herring,  oeef-stew  (or  veal,  or  omelette),  and  a  compote  of 
fruit  (dried  apples,  evaporated  pears,  or  prunes).  —  The  latter  (roubiea  2.25) 
comprises  soup  (often  cabbage),  osseous  fish,  soose,  or  beef,  or  (rardy) 
chicken,  with  dried  pears,  or  prunes  and  bread.  Vegetarians  fare  illy,  as 
vegetables  (even  potatoes),  salads,  and  'made'  dishes  are  apparently  un- 
known. The  food  improves  beyond  Warsaw,  but  even  then  it  is  marked 
by  a  simpUoity  at  variance  with  its  cost.  Children  are  charged  full  price  for 
eveiything.  As  the  filthy  state  of  the  Russian  towns  suggest  a  polluted 
water-supply,  and  as  the  boiled  water  (by  request;  fees)  obtainable  in  the 
dining-car  is  usually  cloudy,  one  is  generally  forced  to  buy  the  mineral  water 
(40  kopecks  a  bottle)  sold  on  the  train.  The  wines  (vt'no),  at  90  kopecks,  and 
rovhUs  1.75  a  bottle,  are  not  of  the  finest.  Fruit  is  scarce  and  expensive. 
The  economical  traveler  will  do  well  to  CKrry  a  well-filled  lunch-basket  (also 
condiments,  lemons,  towels,  a  tea-pot,  a  big  cup,  a  knife,  fork,  spoon,  etc.) 
and  adopt  the  Russian  custom  of  bujdng  food  at  the  wasrside  stations.  Here 
wwnen  and  girls  sell  milk  (molokd)  from  big  bottles  and  pottery  jars  (th» 
rich  milk  of  camels  and  of  asses  upsets  stomachs  unused  to  it),  and  fresh 
bread  (hyUp)  at  moderate  prices.  Hot  water  for  tea  (chat)  is  to  be  had  at 
all  the  stations.  At  the  large  ones  there  is  usually  an  uninviting  platform- 
stand  (exposed  to  dust  and  flies)  where  sausages,  cheese  (some  of  it  excel- 
lent), caviar  (ikvah,  at  4i  roubles  for  a  1-lb.  tin),  good  chocolate  (chocokU), 
cigarettes  (papirosi),  cold  meats,  nuts,  and  tinned  goods  are  on  sale. 

Stbanqers  are  cautioned  against  the  deception  practiced  at  certain  sta- 
tions between  Petropavlovsk  aixdOufa  (and  elsewhere).  Here  are  displayed, 
for  the  fleecing  of  the  unwary,  glittering  assemblages  of  pseudo-semi-pre- 
cious stones  said  to  come  from  the  Ural  and  Caucasus  Mts.,  but  which  in 
reality  are  manufactured  in  Grermany  of  the  excellent  glass  there.  The  ex- 
perienced eye  will  quickly  detect  the  German  'cut'  of  the  so-called  emeralds, 
rubies,  amethysts,  sapphires,  yellow  and  rose-colored  topases,  tourmalines, 
aquamarines,  chrysoberyls,  etc.  These  are  grouped  generally  in  jewel-boxes 
holding  from  6  to  20  stones  for  which  from  30  to  150  roubles  are  demanded, 
and  I  of  which  will  generally  be  accepted.  Legitimate  stones  are  to  be  had 
by  those  who  know  them,  but  care  must  be  exerdsed  that  glass  copies  are  not 
substituted  for  them  as  the  train  is  movins  out  of  the  station.  Specimens  of 
beautiful  apple-green  chrysoprase  (thttwaro  ftlao  gUn  mibstitut^)  are  sold 
to  the  unknowing  as  fine  jade. 


VII.  FORMOSA  (TAIWAN)  AND  THE  PESCADORES. 


Route  Page 

Steamship  Communication,  761.  —  Praoticai  Information, 
761.  — Climate,  763.  —  Topographical  Sketch,  764.— 
The  Pescadores  and  The  Botel  Tobago  Islands,  765.  — 
Forests,  766.  —  Fauna,  767.  —  Historical  Sketch,  768.  — 
Population,  769.  —  The  Guard-Line,  769.  —  Head- 
hunting, 770.  —  Footbinding,  773.  —  The  Aborigines, 
773.  —  BibUography,  774. 

50.  Keelung  (Kiirun) 774 

51.  From  Keelung  to  Taihoku 775 

52.  Taihoku  and  its  Environs 776 

Formosa  Oolong  Tea,  778.  —  Taihoku  Museum,  779.  — 
Botanical  Garden,  780.  —  The  Monopoly  Bureau;  Cam- 
phor, 781.—  Opium,  782.—  Taipeb  Prison.  783.—  Maru- 
yama  Park,  783.  —  Excursions  to  a  village  of  Savages, 
783. 

53.  From  Taihoku  viA  Hokuto  to  Tamsui    ....  784 

54.  From  Taihoku  viA  Toyen,  Shinchiku,  BySritsu, 
Taichu  (Rokko),  Kagi,  and  Tainan  (Anping)  to 
Takao 784 

PankyS  Landscape  Garden,  786.  —  Lake  Candidius,  787. 

—  Mt.   Morrison,  788.  —  Arisan,    789.  —  Tainan,  789. 

—  Anping,  789.  —  Takao,  791. 


Steamship  Communication.  The  Nippon  Yiuen  Kdisha  and  the  Otaka 
Shosen  Kaiaha  operate  weekly  services  between  Kobe  and  (986  M.)  Kee- 
lung (fare,  ¥36,  Ist  cl.;  ¥24,  2d  cl.;  round  trip,  ¥64.80  and  ¥43.20  respec- 
tively), calling  at  Mojx  (fare  to  Keelung^,  1st  cl.,  ¥30;  2d  cl.,  ¥20).  Steamers 
usually  leave  Afoyi  about  4  p.m.  and  arrive  at  the  Keelung  wharf  early  in  the 
morning  of  the  4th  day.  The  shiM,  food,  and  accommodations  are  good; 
deck-chairs  free.  English  spoken.  The  O.S.K.  runs  ships  bi-weekly  between 
Yokohama  and  (1495  M.  in  10  days)  Takao  (fare,  ¥47,  1st  cl.;  ¥31.60,  2d 
cl.),  calling  at  Kobe,  Ujino,  Moji.  &nd  Nagasaki  (fare  hence,  ¥18  and  ¥12 
respectively) .  Ships  sail  each  week  from  Hongkong  viA  Amoy  and  Svoatow 
to  (633  M.  in  2  days)  Tamaui  (¥35, 1st  cl. ;  ¥23,  2d  cl.) ;  and  between  Shang- 
hai and  Takao  (¥60  and  ¥30).  Local  boats  make  the  circuit  of  the  island 
coast  at  frequent  intervals.  A  regular  Une  also  leads  fron^  Oaoiba  vift  the 
Loochoo  Islands  (9  days;  fare,  ¥47  and  ¥31.50)  to  Keelung.  Special  ar- 
rangements with  the  Taitoan  Railway  management  permits  south-bound 
travelers  to  proceed  by  steamer  to'  Keelung^  traverse  the  island  by  rail,  and 
regain  the  ship  for  Hongkong  at  Takao.  For  detailed  reference  to  this  and 
to  other  features  of  the  service  apply  to  any  of  the  company's  agents. 
The  handy  little  Quide  to  Formosa  (m  English,  free)  issued  by  the  0.8.  K.  is 
valuable  to  travelers.  During  the  tea-shipping  season  (June^^pt.),  the  big 
Transpacific  liners  of  the  Toyo  Kisen  Katsha  stop  at  Keehmg  northward- 
bound  from  Hongkong  and  anchor  outside  (time,  30  hrs.;  fare,  ¥27.60,  Ist 
cl.).   Sampan  to  the  shore,  25  sen. 

Practical  Inf  onnation.    Formomy  or  (Chinese  and  Japanese) 
Taiwan  C  terraced  bay'),  a  semi-tropical,  ovaliform  island 
(greatest  width,  97  M.  from  E.  to  W.;  greatest  length,  244  M. 
from  N.  to  S.)  in  the  torrid  zone  approximately  QO  M..Wisi^^ 
China  coast,  extends  from  21''  45'  to  25**  3S'  olli^  A«X,.  wAVtwca. 
J^"  to  122"  6'  15''  of  long,  E.  of  GreenwicYi,  aadloTa»>>MiaB.Vs^ 


762  FORMOSA  Practical  NtOes. 

the  vast  volcanic  chain  which,  running  from  Papua  northward 
to  the  Kuriles,  constitutes  the  E.  escarpment  of  the  Chinese  con- 
tinent —  to  which  it  is  connected  by  a  plateau  over  which  the 
depth  of  water  is  generally  less  than  50  fathoms.  Immediately 
to  the  E.  of  the  island  deep  water  is  found,  and  the  broad  Pa- 
cific stretches  away  4700  M.  to  Honolulu.  Its  area  of  14,000 
sq.  M.  (coast-line  of  700  M.)  makes  the  island  a  trifle  larger 
than  Holland,  a  bit  smaller  than  Switzerland,  and  more  t^m 
twice  the  size  of  the  Hawaiian  Islands.  There  are  63  outlying 
islands  with  an  area  of  48  sq.  M.  and  a  coast-line  of  132  M. 
The  Tropic  of  Cancer  (which  passes  slightly  to  the  N.  of  Cuba 
and  Honolulu)  cuts  it  near  the  middle  and  defines  the  (sea- 
level)  climate.  The  Time  is  54  min.  behind  that  used  in  Japan, 
to  which  Formosa  is  almost  connected  by  the  huge  steppmg- 
stones  comi)rising  the  Loochoo  Islands  —  the  southernmost  of 
which  is  visible  in  clear  weather  from  the  northernmost  point 
of  the  island.  The  Philippines  lie  225  M.  to  the  S.  of  the  curi- 
ously pointed  GararrM  CapCf  with  Manila  390  M.  still  farther 
away.  Between  the  island  and  the  mainland  flows  the  boister- 
ous Stream  of  the  Formosa  Chxmnely  with  the  Pescadores  (p. 
765)  intervening  25  M.  from  its  W.  edge.  Ships  leaving  For- 
mosa on  the  evening  tide  in  good  weather  find  themselves  the 
next  morning  in  a  port  on  the  Chinese  littoral.  Hon^ong  is 
360  M.  from  Takao,  and  with  a  smooth  sea  steamships  make  it 
in  a  day.  But  during  the  roaring  S.W.  monsoon,  when  the  tear- 
ing winds  howl  like  demons  and  kick  up  a  tremendous  sea,  the 
biggest  liners  are  glad  to  lie  to  or  run  somewhere  for  shelter; 
in  such  cases  the  voyage  may  take  several  days.  Submarine 
cables  link  the  island  to  Fochow  and  Kyushu,  and  wireless  sta- 
tions signal  ships  in  the  channel  and  flash  messages  to  the  main- 
land. 

The  island  is  one  of  rare  beauty  and  charm,  a  bizarre  blend 
of  civilization  and  savagery;  of  snow-clad  mts.  and  the  lush 
vegetation  of  the  semi-tropics;  of  the  16th-cent.  Orient  and  the 
20th-cent.  Occident.  In  one  respect  it  offers  the  hla^6  traveler 
a  combination  rarely  met  with  anywhere,  —  the  possibility  of 
safely  hobnobbing  with  savages  reclaimed  with  the  thinnest 
kind  of  a  veneer,  who  secretly  want  the  visitor's  head,  but  are 
prevented  by  Japanese  law  from  taking  anything  more  portable 
than  his  small  cnange;  and  this  only  m  tne  way  of  legitimate 
barter!  To  sit  on  the  balcony  of  the  luxuriously  appointed 
Taihoku  Hotel  and  know  that  somewhere  in  the  near-by  mts. 
ea^er  eyes  may  be  searching  one  out,  and  nervous  fingers  be 
gnpping  a  razor-like  kris  that  would  quickly  decentralize  one's 
cherished  head-piece,  affords  a  thrill  not  *  included  in  the 
price*  in  Europe  or  Amftmal  The  aim  of  the  Japanese  is  to 
make  of  Formosa  a  tiop\c«X^ai^^Tw>(JckaX,'w^^\.tTe<5t  travelers 
from  everywhere,  and  mwcYi  moxw^^  «sA  ^"&^^  %s^\*saai,^- 

pended  to  this  end. 


Climate.  FORMOSA  763 

As  a  colonial  possession  Taitoan  is  ruled  over  by  a  Governor- 
General  appointed  by  the  Mikado,  and  assisted  by  a  Civil 
Administrative  Dept.,  an  Army  Dept.,  and  a  Naval  StafiF.  For 
purposes  of  local  administration  the  island  is  divided  into  20 
prefectures  and  sub-prefectures,  which  are  increased  and  ex- 
tended as  fast  as  sections  of  the  Savage  Territory  are  reclaimed. 
The  organization  is  patterned  closely  after  that  of  Japan  (p. 
cli).  The  Central  Gov't  (Taiwan  Sotoku-fu)  is  at  Taihoku 
(p.  776).  The  annual  revenue  of  approximately  56  million  yen 
(expenses  about  42  millions)  is  obtained  from  taxation,  the  im- 
position of  customs  duties  on  imported  articles,  and  from  the 
receipts  from  various  governmental  undertakings,  —  the  rlys. 
(1000  M.  of  3  ft.  6  in.  gauge),  forests,  opium,  salt,  tobacco,  and 
camphor  monopolies,  etc.  Gold,  silver,  copper,  sulphur^  coal, 
etc.,  are  mined  in  quantities,  and  considerable  petroleum  is  pro- 
duced. Of  the  20  or  more  gold  mines,  but  3  or  4  are  productive. 
The  total  annual  trade  amounts  to  about  125  million  yen. 
Much  of  the  rattan  made  into  furniture  at  Hongkong  is  shipped 
hence.  Rice  and  sugar  are  the  greatest  staples.  Of  the  223 
public  schools  of  the  island,  17  are  for  the  aborigines.  Among 
other  accomplishments  the  aboriginal  children  (1732  pupils) 
are  taught  embroidery,  the  making  of  artificial  flowers,  etc. 

Climate.  The  climatological  conditions  are  singular;  the 
temperature  at  one  point  may  differ  materially  from  that  at 
another  at  practically  the  same  elevation  and  but  a  few  miles 
distant,  and  while  one  town  is  bathed  in  sempiternal  sunshine 
a  less  fortunate  one  10  miles  or  more  away  may  be  overhung 
with  clouds  and  enveloped  in  weeping  rains!  While  one  region 
is  enjoying  a  delightful  season  with  freedom  from  heavy  rains, 
another  district  on  the  same  level  but  a  hundred  miles  or  more 
distant  may  be  having  its  annual  rainy  season.  While  iiCeeZun^ 
is  dubiously  celebrated  as  the  rainiest  place  in  the  Far  East 
(and  the  4th  wettest  in  the  world),  with  a  yearly  average  of  219 
rainy  days  and  nearly  200  in.  of  rain,  Tainan^  but  218  M.  to 
the  south,  also  at  sea-level,  has  but  104  wet  days  and  54  in. 
of  rain,  and  Tamsuij  20  M.  over  the  hills  from  Keelungy  less 
than  100.  Thick  layers  of  clouds  often  rise  at  the  E.  summits  of 
the  mts.,  but  dissolve  quickly  when  descending  to  the  warmer 
atmosphere  on  their  W.  sides.  The  N.E.  monsoon,  which  ab- 
sorbs an  abundance  of  vapor  when  warmed  by  the  Japan 
Stream  (p.  cxlvi)  condenses  into  heavy  rain  when  it  impinges  on 
the  cool  mts.  of  N.E.  Formosa.  During  the  S.W.  monsoon  the 
S.  portion  receives  more  rain  than  the  N.  The  W.  side  of  the 
island  receives  its  greatest  rainfall  in  summer  —  usually  in 
Aug.  Although  Nov.  is  the  wettest  month  in  Keelung,  it  is 
usually  the  dryest  month  in  Taihoku,  20  M.  distant.  Becaua^ 
of  these  climatic  peculiarities  FormoBa  \&  rv^osss^  VlbASi  tsi&r^» 
T^ons  in  the  variety  of  ita  plant  life.  Vett<e\ia\.\OTi  ^pww^'NtMSS^- 
ous/y  at  all  times;  Sowers  bloom  perennUSVy ,  aaA.  «s«^  tsioos*^ 


764  FORMOSA  Topograpkg. 

is  the  busy  season  of  the  mosquito  —  the  most  industrious 
object  on  the  island.  Mosquito-nets  are  indispensable  through 
out  the  year,  and  are  supplied  at  the  hotels  and  inns.  As  the 
head-hunting  tribes  inhabit  and  hold  the  mts.  in  their  posses- 
sion, —  thus  enjoying  what  must  be  a  fine  and  invigorating 
climate,  —  the  civilized,  and  other,  folks  must  dwell  on  the 
plains  and  at  sea-level. 

Spring  begins  in  March  and  lasts  till  the  end  of  May.  In 
Apnl  the  thermometer  often  registers  90°  F.,  and  this  temp^ 
ature  may  increase  to  97°  in  summer,  which  lasts  from  June  till 
the  middle  of  Sept.  The  warmest  month  is  July,  the  mean  tem- 
perature being  81°.  The  monthly  average  of  humidity  is  over 
80°,  and  it  varies  between  93°  and  73°.  Oct.  and  Nov.  corre- 
spond to  the  Indian  Summer  of  the  N.  of  the  United  States  and 
the  Little  Spring  of  Japan;  they  are  the  healthiest  months  of 
the  year,  and  the  best  for  the  tourist  to  visit  the  island.  From 
Sept.  to  April  northeasterly  winds  prevail,  the  direction  bems 
somewhat  affected  by  topographicsd  conditions;  thus  the  wind 
is  E.  at  Taihoku,  N.  at  Tainan^  and  N.E.  at  the  Pescadores. 
Southerly  winds  prevail  from  May  to  Sept.  The  rainy  season  is 
supposed  to  set  m  in  Dec.  and  for  30  days  or  thereabout  the 
drizzle  continues  almost  uninterruptedly,  revivifying  the  vege- 
tation while  depressing  the  spirits  of  the  people.  The  period  is 
much  like  the  Nynbai  of  Japan,  during  which  metals  rust  and 
other  things  mould  and  decay.  During  this  time  the  visitor 
must  be  on  his  guard  against  the  prevalent  malaria.  The  cold- 
est month  is  Feb.  with  a  minimum  temperature  (at  TaUioku 
and  Tainan)  of  38°  F.  and  a  mean  of  61°.  Tai^few  experiences 
but  little  rain  between  Nov.  and  April,  but  the  traveler  may 
expect  it  practically  every  day  at  Keelung  during  that  time.  — 
The  typhoons  which  visit  the  island  during  Aug.  and  Sept.  are 
much  dreaded,  as  they  bring  the  rivers  up  out  of  their  banks, 
flood  the  plantations,  wash  out  bridges,  and  destroy  rly.  com- 
munication, and  sometimes  blow  at  the  astonishing  rate  of  97 
M.  an  hr.  {Taihoku,  Aug.  5,  1898).  Fogs  often  temper  the 
summer  heat.  Yachtsmen  may  wish  to  remember  that  while 
the  E.  coast  of  Formosa  is  clearest  in  summer,  the  W.  coast  is 
clearest  in  winter.  Earthquakes  are  frequent  but  are  rarely 
severe.    Storms  do  the  most  damage. 

Topographical  Sketch.    Topographically  Formosa  is  like 

Japan  in  that  ridges  of  lofty,  densely-wooaed  mts.  traverse  it 

from  N.  to  S.  and  divide  it.  Westward  of  the  ridge  the  land  falls 

in  a  succession  of  terraces  to  a  wide  plain  covered  with  sugar 

plantations  and  rice-fields  (2  crops  a  year).  Many  of  the  5000 

Bq.  M.  of  the  total  tillable  area  lie  here,  and  from  the  numerous 

bays  and  ports  2215  atftOCMSiVQ^  and  36,000  junks  carry  the 

island  proauctsto  3apaawi^Vii^^>Kffw^s»\s^.^^^  As  dviHzar 

tion  entered  the  island  lTom\K^ft«v^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ 

its  advance  is  marked  by  popxAoxyaN^^^^^^^^-=^^^^^^ 


The  Pescadores.  FORMOSA  765 

fields.  The  E.  coast  is  mountainous,  and  some  of  the  remarka- 
bly beautiful  cliffs  which  rise  a  sheer  3300  ft.  from  the  water  are 
said  to  be  the  highest  in  the  world — reminding  one  of  Norwe- 
gian, New  Zealand,  or  Alaskan  fiords.  The  water  is  deep  close  in, 
and  when  big  ships  steam  along  the  base  of  the  towermg  rocky 
mass  they  seem  no  larger  than  cockle-shells.  The  rocks  are 
chiefly  sandstone,  slate,  graystone,  gneiss,  shale,  and  granite, 
with  others  of  trappean,  coal,  and  coralline  formation.  TaitOf 
PinaUf  KarenkOf  and  So-o  are  the  chief  ports  of  the  E.  coast. 
The  great  axial  range^  which  with  smaller  ridges  traverses  the 
island  from  N.  to  S.,  rises  near  Taihoku  and  tapers  to  the  South 
Cape,  there  to  terminate  in  a  remarkable  limestone  mass  fa- 
mous in  Chinese  legends.  Many  stately  peaks  mark  the  prog- 
ress of  the  range,  the  culminating  point  (highest  in  the  Jap- 
anese Empire)  being  Mt.  Morrison  (p.  788).  Other  fine  peaks 
are  ML  Sylvia  (12,522  ft.;  named  for  a  British  man-of-war,  the 
Sylvia,  in  1867);  Taihasen,  a  few  miles  to  the  N.  (10,797  ft.); 
Taisetsu  (10,800  ft.);  Gokan  (11,209  ft.);  Hakku  (10,539  ft.); 
Tosha  (10,800  ft.);  ArUogun  (10,193  ft.);  Noko  (11,200  ft.); 
Randai-san  (10,100  ft.);  Bokyo  (10,250  ft.);  Gundai  (10,700 
ft.);  Ranzan  (12,100  ft.);  Shokaman  (10,740  ft.);  Pinan 
(10,906  ft.);  and  nearly  a  score  of  giants  from  9000  ft.  down- 
ward. The  splendid  ShUkoran,  near  ML  Morrison,  is  12,650 
ft.,  and  is  next  in  height  to  its  loftier  neighbor.  On  the  slopes 
of  nearly  all  these  huge  peaks  are  the  high-poised  and  almost 
inaccessible  villages  of  the  wild  tribes,  within  the  district  known 
as  the  Savage  Boundary,  now  hemmed  in  in  many  places  by 
electrified  barbed-wire  and  guarded  stations. 

The  principal  plains  are  Hozan,  Tainan,  Kagi,  and  Skoka,  — 
all  known  as  the  Plains  of  the  West  Coast.  The  Giran,  or 
Kapstdan  Plain,  and  the  Karai  Plain  (referred  to  sometimes 
as  the  Taito  Valley)  are  on  the  E.  side  of  the  axial  chain.  — 
All  the  streams  of  the  limited  Riveb  System  are  of  the  nature 
of  mt.  torrents.  —  shallow  and  sluggish  during  the  drv  season, 
but  raging  and  destructive  during  the  season  of  flooos  (July- 
Aug.).  At  such  times  erstwhile  nondescript  trickles  become 
booming  torrents  a  half-mile  or  so  wide,  which  tear  out  the 
strongest  rly.  bridges  and  demolish  the  largest  plantations  in 
their  path.  The  most  important  are  the  Tamsui  River  (87  M. 
long);  the  Dakusukei  (95  M.);  and  the  Daiankei  (48  M.). 

The  Pescadores  (islands  so  called  by  the  Spanish  navigators 
because  most  of  the  inhabs.  are  Pescadores,  or  *  fishermen')  are 
called  Hoko-to  by  the  Japanese,  to  whom  they  belong.  The  un- 
interesting archipelago  (pop.  56,000)  consists  of  about  21  small 
islands  generally  flat  and  in  no  place  more  than  300  ft.  above 
the  sea-level.  The  area  of  the  largest  is  about  24  sq.  M.  Tk<& 
two  most  important  are  Panghu  and  FisKer  laUraa^TL^dx  VX^^ 
center  of  the  cluster.  Makiu,  or  MdkOy  or  MakutiQ^^Soft  ^^l 
taJ,  has  the  remaina  of  an  old  Dutch  fort,  Mid  «i.  "^V*  ^  ^5**5ft< 


766  FORMOSA  The  Fora^ 

The  usual  point  of  departure  for  the  islands  is  Aniung,  Steam- 
ers of  the  Osaka  Sfwaen  Kaisha  make  the  52  M.  in  5-6  hrs. 

The  Betel  Toba|:o  Islands  (Jap.  Koto-^ho),  50  M.  S.E.  of 
PinaUj  consist  of  2  islands,  the  largest  7i  M.  long  from  W.N.W. 
to  E.S.E.,  and  from  2  to  4  broad  (highest  point,  1820  ft.) ;  with 
asmaller  one  3  M.  to  the  S.  The  1200  or  more  b^ghted  inhabs. 
occupy  8  wretched  villages,  and  in  their  manners  and  customs 
recall  the  Pajmans  of  the  Solomon  Islands,  They  are  believed 
to  be  of  Malaysian-Poljmesian  origin. 

The  Forests  cover  about  7  million  acres  (67%  of  the  total 
area  of  the  island)  and  lie  chiefly  within  the  Savage  Territory. 
The  3  million  acres  outside  this  have  been  almost  ruined  by 
the  ruthless  Chinese  in  their  search  for  camphor  and  other 
products.  The  Arisan  Forest^  on  ML  Arly  covers  about  27,000 
acres  between  1800  and  9000  ft.  above  the  sea,  and  is  widely 
known  for  its  large  and  splendidly  tall  evergreen  trees,  some  of 
which  are  thought  to  be  1500  yrs.  old.  The  most  valuable  are 
the  immense  camphor  trees  (p.  781),  and  the  huge  (some  190, 
ft.  high  and  60  ft.  in  girth)  coniferous  Chamcecy^ris  formo- 
sensis  (a  relative  of  the  Thuya;  Jap.  Hinoki)^  of  wWch  there  are 
said  to  be  upward  of  300,000.  Here,  at  an  elevation  of  about 
7000  ft.,  grow  the  few  specimens  of  the  unique  Belts  Lanceolata 
(or  Cunninghamia;  named  for  R,  Cunninghamy  an  En^ish 
physician  in  China),  magnificent  trees  of  a  single  species  but 
allied  closely  to  the  sequoia  of  California,  and  used  by  the 
Chinese  for  tea-chests  and  coffins.  The  Japanese  cedar  is  re- 
presented by  the  immensely  tall,  umbrella-shaped  Cryptomeria 
Taiwaniana;  and  the  Tsuga  (large  forests  of  which  the  traveler 
will  note  on  Fuji-san)  by  equally  splendid  specimens  of  Tsuaa 
formosensis  —  both  to  Japan  and  Formosa  what  the  hemlock- 
spruce  is  to  Canada  and  the  United  States.  Retinosporas, 
spruces,  soap,  tallow,  and  paper-mulberry  trees,  Ldquidambar 
formosana,  magnolias,  and  a  host  of  others  grow  in  riotous  pro- 
fusion, prominent  and  striking  figures  amon^  them  the  Libo- 
cedrus  (the  arbor-vitae,  or  incense-cedar),  which  yields  a  yel- 
lowish wood  capable  of  taking  a  high  polish  and  a  satin-like 
finish.  The  Katang  tree  produces  the  close-grained,  rich-red 
wood  made  up  into  furniture  in  China  and  sold  to  the  unwary 
as  rosewood.  The  East  Indian  palm  (Areca  Cathecu;  Jap. 
binro)  is  common  everywhere  and  furnishes  the  areca-nut  (6tn- 
rdji)  so  highly  esteemed  among  the  natives  as  a  masticatory. 
The  fruit  (often  called  hetel-nvi  because  it  is  chewed  wiUi  the 
leaf  of  the  betel  pepper  —  Piper  Betle)  resembles  a  nutm^  in 
shape  and  color,  but  is  larger,  with  hard  white  albumen.  The 
entire  nut  is  chewed ;  a  slice  is  wrapped  in  the  fresh  leaf  smeared 
with  a  mixture  of  gambler  or  shell-lime  colored  red,  and  the 
whole  masticated  to  a  pulp  before  spitting  it  out.  The  taste  is 
herbaceous  and  aromatic  with  a  little  pungency,  and  those  who 
chew  it  seldom  have  \t  omX.  oi  tVveir  mouths  (usually  lodged 


Fauna.  FORMOSA  767 

between  the  teeth  and  the  lower  lip) .  It  is  supposed  to  sweeten 
the  breath  and  promote  digestion.  — The  lithe  bamboo  (Phyl- 
lostachya)  grows  in  dense  groves  and  produces  culms  40-50  ft. 
long.  The  Gov't  Forestry  Bureau  is  engaged  actively  in  refor- 
estation, and  in  the  museum  at  Taihoku  there  is  an  excellent 
collection  of  forest  timber,  properly  classified,  with  its  uses,  etc. 
The  Pacific  Northwest  system  of  logging  and  lumber-sawing  is 
followed,  and  American  sawing-machinery  is  used. 

The  Fauna  is  more  closely  allied  to  that  of  Japan,  Malaysia, 
and  British  India  than  the  mainland  of  China,  and  includes 
tiger-cats,  Asiatic  wild-cats,  Tibetan  bears,  3  species  of  deer 
and  civets,  wild  boars,  Swinhoe^s  goat-antelopes,  martens,  the 
S.  China  wild  cow  {Bos  Chinensis)^  apes,  armadillos,  several 
species  of  squirrels,  and  numerous  rodents.  Conspicuous  fea- 
tures are  the  domesticated  water  buffaloes  (Bvbalus  huffelus  — 
Chinese,  Shiu  niu,  or  water-ox;  the  carabao  of  the  Philippines), 
employed  as  beasts  of  burden  and  in  tilline  the  soil.  They  are 
docile  but  unwieldy  creatures,  with  a  hairless  hide  of  a  repul- 
sive, light  datv  black,  and  widespread  black  ribbed  horns  with 
flat  upper  surfaces  that  lie  far  back  on  the  neck  and  resemble 
exaixerated  callipers.  Each  horn  is  nearly  semicircular,  and 
bends  downward;  the  head  seems  to  be  affected  by  their 
weight,  and  is  tuj*ned  back  so  as  to  bring  the  nose  horizontal. 
To  all  appearances  this  adornment  is  useless  to  its  wearer,  but 
such  is  not  the  case,  since  the  clumsy  ruminants  not  only  de- 
fend themselves  against  the  attacks  of  tigers  (particularly  in 
Java),  but  often  kifl  the  aggressors.  Constitutionally  more  deli- 
cate tnan  the  ox,  the  buffaloes  tire  easily,  and  unless  their  driv- 
ers pour  water  over  them  occasionally  they  become  fagged  and 
uaeksB.  One  often  sees  them  standing  in  square  tan£  being 
splashed  with  water.  The  tough  naked  hide  is  a  mark  for  gnats 
and  other  insects,  and  to  guai^d  against  them  the  animals  seek 
muddy  pools,  where  th^  lie  {pr  hrs.  with  only  the  nose  and 
e}re8  above  the  surface.  Saucy  Drongo-shrikes,  handsome  birds 
with  Ions  forked  tails,  black  shot  with  steel-blue,  and  with  a 
tinge  of  Bronze  on  both  wings  and  tails,  are  seen  often  sitting 
on  the  backs  of  buffaloes  devouring  the  insects  which  torment 
them.  Ragged  h^-boys  often  ride  the  animals,  and  the  meta- 
phor of  a  ^d  astride  a  buffsdo's  back^  blowing  the  flute,  fre- 
quently enters  into  Chinese  descriptions  of  rural  life.  The 
snowy  herons  which  stalk  the  animals  eat  the  tiny  lampreys 
found  in  the  pools  in  which  they  wallow.  Buffaloes  often  show 
their  wild  nature  by  dislike  for  Europeans,  and^travelers  should 
tr^  to  avoid  meeting  l^em  in  narrow  lanes  unaccompanied  by 
drivers.  The  island  is  rich  in  venomous  snakes  of  more  interest 
to  herpetologiBts  than  to  timid  tourists.  The  dieBAe^  Cc^Ob 
de  eapMo,  a  repulsive  reptjle  which  attains  a  \eii^\i  ol  VA^  Vv..^ 
MB  oanunoa.  The  avifauna  is  very  varied,  and  ol  VJafc  \^/s^ 
mate  ^jeoiea  of  birds,  A  number  are  pecuUar  to  \Xi^  \oQi«>aX.'^ 


768  FORMOSA  History. 

Among  the  finest  is  the  beautiful  blue  magpie  (Urocissa  caavr 
lea)f  with  deep  black  head  and  neck,  bright  vennilion  bill  and 
legs,  and  vioiet-blue  and  white  body.  The  crows  one  some- 
times sees  are  the  descendants  of  those  which  Admiral  V%9' 
count  Kabayama  (the  first  Governor-General)  set  free  from  his 
warship  at  the  time  of  the  Japanese  occupation  in  1895.    The 

gikko  lizards  so  common  in  Formosan  houses  are  timid  and 
armless.  The  fish  of  the  environing  seas  are  similar  to  those 
of  Japan,  but  perhaps  because  of  the  warmer  water  are  less 
palatable. 

Historical  Sketch.  According  to  the  (not  always  trustworthy)  Chinese 
annals,  Formosa  came  prominently  into  history  in  a.d.  605  (during  the  3ui 
Dynasty)  when  a  Chinese  navigator,  Ho  Man^  visited  the  islana  ax»A  was 
surprised  to  find  it  peopled  by  numerous  savage  tribes  (perhaps  Malays,  but 
called  Inr  some  authorities  Lonkitu)  whose  language  ne  could  not  under- 
stand. The  ynHy  Mongolian  returned  to  China  and  soon'  thereafter  headed  a 
second  (piratical)  expedition,  and  after  demanding  that  the  natives  reoog- 
nise  the 'Son  of  Heaven'  as  their  lord  (which  was  refused),  burnt  their  villages, 
slew  those  who  failed  to  take  refuge  in  the  mts.,  and  then  returned  in  trir 
um];>h  to  the  mainland.  The  Chinese  legend  which  refers  to  the  creation  of 
the  island  is  not  worth  repeating.  Until  the  15th  cent.,  when  the  LooeKoos 
proper  were  distinguished  from  Formosa  and  called  Yakushimat  the  Chi- 
nese persiBted  in  calling  the  island  Looehoo.  Many  still  call  it  Ki^ung-shan 
([Keelung  Mt.).  In  1590,  some  Portuspese  sailing  near  the  W.  coast  of  the 
■island  sighted  it  and  were  so  struck  by  its  beauty  that  they  called  it  Ilha  Fot' 
mora  (Beautiful  Island).  The  name  was  incorporated  in  the  Dutch  charts 
bv  a  Dutch  navigator,  John  Hughes  de  Linschooten  (who  explored  the  coast 
of  Japan  in  1584),  and  eventually  became  the  accepted  (and  appropriate) 
name.  In  1622,  after  the  Dutch  bombardment  of  Portuguese  Macao  by 
the  ships  of  Cornelius  Reyersz,  these  'Red-haired  Barbarians'  settled  in  the 
Pescadores,  and  to  placate  them  the  Chinese  who  already  had  established 
themselves  in  Formosa  in  appreciable  numbers,  and  who  practically  dom- 
inated the  island,  gave  them  permission  (in  1623)  to  trade  there.  A  year 
later  Fort  Zelandia  was  erected  at  Taitoan  (now  Anping),  and  soon  there- 
after a  second  and  smaller  fort,  Proviniia,  was  built.  In  1626,  the  Spaniards 
settled  at  Keelung  and  named  it  La  Santisima  Trinidad  (Holy  Trinity) .  For 
^ears  thereafter  there  was  much  bickering  between  the  sly,  psalm-aing- 
ing,  mercenary  Hollanders,  and  the  equally  sealous  and  intolerant  vadres. 
In  this  the  Japanese  pirates,  who  had  ravaged  the  coast  some  20  yrs.  before, 
and  who  considered  it  as  their  special  domain,  took  an  active  part.  Many 
merchants  of  this  nation  had  already  settled  at  Takao,  and  because  the  scen- 
ery of  the  coast  between  that  port  and  Anping  was  sunilar  to  that  of  7*aika- 
sago,  in  Harima  (or  Banshu)  Province,  they  named  the  island  Takasago  — 
a  pillow-word  for  a  mt.  peak,  and  still  the  poetic  name  for  the  region. 

The  most  picturesque  period  in  the  history  of  Formosa  was  inaugurated 
by  a  swashbuckling  pirate  chief  known  variously  as  CMng  Kung,  Tei-aeikot 
and  as  Koxinga,  the  son  (bom  near  Nagasaki,  Japan,  in  1624)  of  an  equally 
celebrated  corsair,  CMng  Chi-lung  (or  Iqwin),  who  in  time  became  the 
wealthiest  and  most  powerful  man  in  the  Middle  Kingdom,  with  vast  fleets 
of  vessels  and  methods  of  reprisal  so  dreaded  that  even  the  Emp>eror  feared 
to  oppose  him.  In  1657,  he  attacked  the  Dutch  with  such  shrewdness  and 
impetuositv  that  those  who  were  not  slaughtered  surrendered  and  were  per- 
mitted to  dej^art  for  Batavia,  with  their  missionaries  and  their  reduced  pos- 
sessions.  In  1662,  Dutch  authority  in  Formosa  ceased  (after  30  yrs.  continu- 
ance), and  in  1668  the  last  Dutchman  retired  from  Keelung.  Koxinga  mean- 
while established  himself  as  the  sovereign  of  the  island,  over  which  he  ruled 
in  a  barbarically  opuLent  style.  He  died  within  a  year  after  his  invasion  and 
was  ennobled  by  the  C\uLiieae"EinivftxoT,«a  Hai-ching  kung,  or  'Sea-quelling 
Duke', one  of  the  two  petv^XAM^  \a\Xs»  wassQ%>i>aft  Chinese.   His  pule  was 

*''^^^2^i%«X;viav  N»aa^TieV\v  ^ti^^\>^\«A.  \sv  \mN 'Oc.^  v^ 


PopidaHan.  FORMOSA  769 

was  the  misgovemment  that  it  soon  became  a  refraetoi^  r^on,  and  the 
plundered  and  exasperated  natives,  after  killing  and  eating  many  of  their 
conquerors,  retired  to  the  mt.  fastnesses  and  started  a  race-war  which  still 
rages.  For  many  years  the  island  was  notorious  among  sailors  for  its  treach- 
erous coast  and  fierce  peoples  —  the  semi-barbarous  Chinese  being  almost  as 
much  dreaded  as  the  h»ad-huntin^  aboriginals.  EngUsh,  American,  and 
Japanese  vessels  were  from  time  to  tune  wrecked  on  the  coast,  and  the  unfor- 
tunate  passengers  and  crews  that  were  not  massacred  were  enslaved  and  tor^ 
tured.  Several  punitive  expeditions  were  landed  by  the  English  and  Ameri- 
cans (one  of  the  latter  under  Captain  Bdknap  in  the  ships  Hartford,  and 
Wyoming,  in  June,  1867) ,  and  the  Japanese  Gov  t,  exasperated  by  the  murder 
of  54  wrecked  Loochooana  in  1871,  after  futile  attempts  to  obtain  redress  of 
Peking,  took  the  matter  into  its  own  hands  and  war  was  narrowly  averted. 
The  Japanese  invasion  (and  occupation  of  the  southern  part  of  the  idand) 
in  1874  sobered  both  the  Chinese  and  aboriginals,  It  was  followed  in  1884 
by  the  French  campaign,  during  which  France  seised  the  island  as  a  material 
guaranty  for  the  payment  of  an  indemnity  imposed  upon  China  at  the  close 
of  the  Franco-Chinese  War. 

China  attempted  to  make  radical  changes  in  the  administration  of  the 
region  during  the  yrs.  that  followed,  but  when  the  Japanese  stormed  and 
took  Taihoku  (the  capital)  on  June  8,  1895,  and  scattered  the  adherents  of 
the  recently  establishedFormosan  Republic,  the  island  was  but  slightly  more 
advanced  than  it  was  when  ruled  by  Koxinga  in  the  17th  cent.  It  was  a 
red-letter  day  for  Formosa  and  its  inhabitants  when  China  ceded  the  island 
(Shimonosela  Treaty,  April  17,  1895)  to  Japan  at  the  conclusion  of  the 
Japan-China  War,  although  the  campaign  which  followed  cost  the  conauer- 
ors  millions  of  treasure  and  4642  soldiers,  while  21,(X)0  had  to  be  sent  back 
to  Japan  for  treatment.  It  was  also  an  important  day  for  Japan,  for  on  that 
day  it  rose  to  the  rank  of  a  colonial  power,  and  for  the  first  time  in  its  2500 
3rrs.  of  history  the  people  and  territory  of  another  nation  were  transferred  to  its 
protection.  Included  in  the  cession  were  all  the  adjacent  islands  lying  in  the 
sea  from  119°  to  120°  E.  long,  and  from  23°  to  24°  N.  lat.  (which  included 
the  Pescadores).  By  patience,  tact,  and  thb  liberal  expenditure  of  lives, 
time,  and  money,  the  progressive  Japanese  have  civilised  a  large  part  of  the 
island,  and  they  are  still  engaged  in  the  apparently  insurmountable  task  of 
rescuing  a  savage  race  from  moral,  commercial,  and  intellectual  obUvion. 

Population.  Ethnologically  Formosa  is  highly  interesting; 
many  of  the  wild  tribes  (which  still  hold  considerable  of  the 
island  territory)  are  bloodthirsty  head-hunters  who  make  it 
their  business  and  pleasure  to  lie  in  wait,  slay,  and  decapitate 
the  domesticated  savages,  the  Japanese,  and  the  Chineee  who 
work  near  the  Guard-Line.  Many  of  the  semi-barbarous 
Chinese  themselves  are  said  to  be  murderous  as  well  as  hominiv- 
orous;  exhibiting  their  cannibalistic  tendencies  by  eating  por- 
tions of  the  bushmen  they  succeed  in  killing.  To  save  9iem- 
selves  and  their  subjects  from  being  slaughtered  and  beheaded, 
the  Japanese  must  either  civilize  or  destroy  the  wild  tribes,  ana 
the  war  of  regeneration  or  extermination  is  being  conducted 
with  characteristic  Japanese  vigor.  At  present  t£e  extended 
Guard-Line,  maintained  by  a  thousand  or  more  hardjr  Nip- 
ponese fighters,  tightens  and  grows  steadily  smaUer,  wlule  the 
obstinate  natives  within  the  gigantic  mesh  fight,  surrender, 
recede,  or  die  in  defense  of  their  wretched  huts  and  tiheir  sin- 
gular mental  inheritance. 

The  Gtiard-Line  (Aiyu^aen)  is  established  by  cutting  &  ^a^lb.  V>>v^<^^^^)'=scdL 
the  side  of  the  mts.,  then  clearing  the  Jungle  m  trout  lot  waS&c&soft*  oSiMhska 
for  the  guards  to  note  the  approach  of  an  enemy.  T\ie\j«EcteooYtfS'M*^  «»* 
Joophaled,  amrounded  by  barfoed-wire  fences,  and  wipp^ioA.  "«W^  %s««x»'^ 


770  FORMOSA  Head-Huniing. 

grenades,  field-guns,  telephones,  etc.  In  very  risky  districts  the  wire  entan- 
glements are  electrically  charged,  and  sunken  mines  are  laid  for  the  savages. 
When  rivers  are  spanned  bv  the  lines,  a  peculiarly  constructed  bridge  of  n^ 
tan  and  piano-wire  is  made,  sometimes  400  ft.  or  more  long.  Five  or  more 
guard-houses,  with  2-4  men  in  each  house,  are  placed  at  intervala  in  a  nule, 
and  in  localities  where  barter  is  permitted  with  the  savages,  a  barter-house 
is  erected  near  the  superintendent's  cabin,  and  interpreters  are  emploj^ed. 
While  one  guard  sleeps,  the  other  watches,  for  the  duty  of  the  guard  is  not 
only  to  preserve  his  own  life,  but  also  to  protect  the  villages  and  fields  in  his 
district.  The  savages  frequently  attack  the  men,  who  are',  in  constant  dan- 
ger. Sometimes  whole  parties  are  ambushed  and  massacred.  As  the  natives 
are  subdued  or  convinced  of  the  futility  of  resistance,  the  guaitl-line  is  ad- 
vanced, not  always  without  disaster  or  hardships  to  the  workers.  When  the 
line  is  advanced  over  the  tremendous  cliffs  which  are  a  feature  of  tiie  EL 
coast,  steps  must  be  cut  in  them  and  progress  is  much  like  Alpine  climbing. 
Field-guns  are  often  dragged  up  almost  inaccessible  places;  provisions  are 
carried  on  the  backs  of  coolies;  patrol  detachments  guard  the  workmen;  and 
a  regular  army  field  equipment  is  necessJEMT.  ^In  cases  where  the  natives 
make  a  stout  resistance,  to  capture  a  tribe  and  its  few  scattered  villages  re- 
quires a  force  of  a  thousand  or  more  men,  a  hundred  or  more  days'  w(^,  and 
an  expenditure  of  perhaps  125,000  yen.  Two  or  three  hundred  men  are  usu- 
ally killed  in  such  campaigns.  Pimitive  expeditions  are  being  almost  con- 
stantly sent  to  some  district.  The  authorities  hope  to  have  the  entire  sav- 
age district  under  control  in  due  course,  as  upward  of  SJmillion  yen  a  jroar  are 
being  spent  in  the  civilizing  campaign.  Before  this  was  undertaken,  the 
head-hunters  raided  the  lowland  frequently  and  carried  off  from  500  to  600 
heads  annually.  Every  humane  effort  is  made  to  induce  the  savages  to  re- 
nounce their  cruel  ways.  A  thousand  children  are  bedng  taught  at  45  schools 
established  in  the  guiurd  stations,  and,  whenever  possible,  the  authorities  take 
batches  of  natives  on  a  junket  to  Japan,  to  show  thrai  how  intelligent  people 
Uve. 

The  origin  of  the  Formosan  aborigines  is  unknown;  some  au- 
thorities believe  them  to  be  of  the  same  race  with  the  Philippine 
Tagcdogs;  others  think  them  of  Polynesian  origin;  others  that 
they,  in  the  East,  and  the  people  of  Madagascar,  in  the  West, 
are  both  of  the  same  pure  Malayan  stock  that  spread  itself  out 
in  opposite  directions;  and  still  others  that  they  are  descended 
from  the  same  root  as  the  Miaho  hill-tribes,  the  aborigines  of 
Kweichau  in  China.  The  Japanese  judge  from  their  houses  and 
their  physical  characteristics  that  they  were  stragglers  from  the 
wave  of  migration  which,  following  the  warm  Kuro-shiwo, 
eventually  settled  in  Japan.  The  natives  themselves  are  prac- 
tically without  traditions  as  to  their  origin.  They  call  their 
country  Pah-auj  or  Pak-ande.  Those  that  remain  uncon- 
taminated  by  admixture  with  the  Chinese  settlers  are  a  much 
finer-looking  race  than  the  Mongolians,  of  medium  stature, 
with  clear  olive  complexions,  stiff  straight  hair  on  the  head,  pro- 
jecting cheek-bones,  black  eyes,  broad,  flat  noses,  and  scanty 
beards.  They  are  well-built,  bold,  wir^r,  and,  like  wild  people 
the  world  over,  devoted  to  hunting.  With  many  of  them  their 
neighbors'  heads  are  the  objects  most  desired,  and  much  of  the 
spare  time  of  the  inhabitants  is  spent  in  preventing  this  useful 
member  from  being  decentralized. 

Head-hiinling  (a  d\alm^p3as\5Mi^\3T«iL\.^\'^^  race) 

IB  practiced  oixW  by  cet\.aiXi  ol  VXi^  v.Yto^,\ia\5^-3  "^^  *^^«^ 
Puyuma,  and  the  Vonum*  -  ^\iQ>Q».N^^^^^^Vst  ^V  ^a«. 


Head-HurUers.  FORMOSA  771 

former  make  the  acquisition  of  a  number  of  heads  their  first 
aim  in  life,  inasmuch  as  at  least  one  human  head  is  required  on 
ahnost  eveiy  important  occasion,  and  always  in  religious  rites 
or  ceremonies.  When  a  savage  youth  attains  his  majority  he 
is  not  permitted  to  join  a  company  of  adults  until  he  gets  a  hu- 
man head,  and  when  a  dispute  arises  between  members  of  a 
tribe  the  decision  is  given  in  favor  of  the  one  who  first  secures 
a  head.  No  savage  is  esteemed  who  has  not  beheaded  a  Chii^- 
man,  while  the  greater  number  of  heads  brought  home  from  a 
fray,  the  higher  the  position  of  a  brave  in  the  community,  and 
the  easier  it  is  for  him  to  marry  the  woman  of  his  choice.  The 
practice  is  said  to  have  had  its  origin  in  the  display  of  courage, 
it  being  considered  essential  in  order  to  qualify  youths  to  be 
ranked  with  men  of  ripe  age.  Because  of  the  head-hunting 
mania  the  women  are  said  to  outnumber  the  men  3  or  4  to  1. 

Head-hunters  on  the  war-path  usually  travel  in  squads; 
equipping  themselves  with  rifles  and  provisions  they  approach 
as  near  as  convenient  to  the  frontier  or  guard-line,  and  hide 
themselves  in  the  jungle  near  some  frequented  path.  Here, 
whenever  the  opportunity  arises,  they  shoot  unsuspecting 
travelers,  or,  emerging  from  their  lurking-place,  they  make  a 
sudden  and  swift  descent  on  some  field  or  outlying  house,  mur- 
dering whomsoever  they  meet.  The  savage  tracks  lie  only 
through  the  dense  forests,  thick  with  underbrush,  where  hiding 
is  easy.  The  decapitated  heads  are  boiled,  to  separate  the 
flesh;  then  the  skull  is  adorned  with  various  rude  ornaments, 
and  either  hung  up  in  the  warrior's  hut  as  an  evidence  of  his 
skill  (or  treachery),  or  is  placed  in  a  niche  in  the  wall,  as  a  sort 
of  Chinese  curio.  The  bodies  are  left  where  they  fall.  Mon- 
golian heads  are  preferred,  but  those  of  other  tribesmen,  of 
domesticated  natives,  or  of  Japanese,  are  esteemed.  Owing 
to  the  difficulty  attending  the  securing  of  human  heads,  certain 
tribes  content  themselves  with  those  of  monkevs. 

For  purposes  of  racial  distinction  the  inhabitants  of  For- 
mosa (barring  the  Japanese  and  other  foreigners)  are  divided 
into  Mongolians  and  Malayans;  the  former  —  who  have  been 
migrating  into  the  island  during  the  last  400  yrs.  — are  placed, 
according  to  their  original  home  in  China,  in  two  general 
classes,  the  Haklos  and  the  Hakkas,  The  first  are  the  older  im- 
migrants and  are  subdivided  into  four  ^ups:  Amoy^  Taweng- 
choOy  ChangchoOy  and  ChangpoOf  according  to  their  dialects  and 
the  districts  in  Fokien  Province  whence  they  came.  They  num- 
ber about  2,400,000  and  by  some  are  called  the  Min  Caste. 
The  women  bind  their  feet,  while  the  HakkcLs  do  not.  The 
latter,  called  the  Yuen  Caste  (also  *  visitors,'  or  'strangers')/ 
number  upward  of  400,000;  their  ancestors  emigrated  from. 
Canton.  They  are  a  hara-working  race,  co\ir84|<sov\&  «sA  csc\i!^^ 
miAh&nt  toward  their  neigbboTB  and  the  abong^:le&,  asi^Wtfx^^^^ 
to  any  form  of  gov't   Their  women  work  ia  tYkfe  tu^*^*  '^Si6\»' 


772  FORMOSA  {Subm. 

• 

of  these  castes  began  pouring  into  Formosa  toward  tlie  end  of 
the  Ming  Dynasty ^  and  afterward,  when  in  the  T*smg  Dymuiy 
the  Chinese  took  possession  of  the  island  and  allowed  pmuir 
nent  settlement  there,  the  Chinese  came  in  such  numbcffs  that 
they  soon  spread  themselves  over  the  plains  along  the  S.  and 
W.  coasts.  Advancing  northward,  they  occupied  the  entire  W. 
portion  of  the  island,  dominating  the  weaker  native  tribes^  and 
diiving  the  prouder  and  more  independent  ones  Qmown  as 
'hul  barbarians')  to  the  mt.  fastnesses  for  safety.  Perhi^  at 
that  remote  period  was.  engendered  the  ineradicable  hatred 
which  the  aboriginals  feel  toward  the  Mongolians,  and  which 
not  even  blood-requital  seems  to  appease.  The  Chinese  re- 
turned the  compliment  with  true  Mongolian  barbarity.  When 
an  unfortunate  savage  was  captured,  his  head  was  cut  off  and 
displayed  to  all  comers  with  ghoulish  glee;  *  the  body  was  then 
either  divided  among  his  captors  and  eaten,  or  sold  to  wealthy 
Chinese,  and  even  to  hi^  officials,  who  disposed  of  it  in  a  like 
manner.  The  kidneys,  liver,  heart,  and  soles  of  the  feet  were 
considered  the  ibost  desirable  portions,  and  were  ordinarily 
cut  up  into  very  small  pieces,  boiled,  and  eaten  somewhat  in 
the  form  of  soup.  The  flesh  and  bones  were  boiled,  and  the 
former  made  into  a  sort  of  jelly.  The  Chinese  profess  to  believe, 
in  accordance  with  an  old  superstition,  that  the  eating  of  sav- 
age flesh  will  give  them  strength  and  courage.  During  the  out- 
break of  1891  savage  flesh  was  brought  in,  m  baskets,  the  same 
as  pork,  and  sold  Tike  pork  in  the  open  markets  of  Tokoham 
before  the  eyes  of  all,  foreigners  included;  some  of  the  flesh 
was  even  sent  to  Amoy  to  be  placed  on  sale  there.  It  was  fre- 
quently on  sale  in  the  small  Chinese  villages  near  the  border, 
and  often  before  the  eyes  of  peaceful  groups  of  savages  who 
happened  to  be  in  the  place.'  {J,  W.  Davidson,  The  Island  of 
Formosa,  p.  254.) 

Other  customs  among  the  semi-savage  idolatrous  Formosan 
Chinese  are  but  little  less  reprehensible.  One  is  the  living  on 
the  earnings  of  the  wife's  immorality;  in  such  cases  the  house 
is  known  to  the  neighbors  as  the  ^  Half-closed  Gato,'  and  the 
man  who  hires  the  woman  as  the  *  Guest  Husband.'  Concu- 
bines are  kept  by  many,  although  class  distinction  is  strong. 
Prostitutes,  servants,  barbers,  chiropodists,  butchers,  actors, 
and  funeral  musicians  are  regarded  with  contempt  and  as  out- 
casts whom  no  respectable  person  will  marry.  Pigs  are  more 
carefully  tended  than  children.  The  Chinese  are  the  duck- 
breeders  of  the  island;  one  man  usually  attends  to  about  200 
birds;  drakes  lay  no  eggs  and  are  therefore  killed.  To  the  for- 
eigner the  natives  seem  to  spend  most  of  their  time  on  the 
street,  picking  earwigs  OMt  of  the  dirty  ears  of  their  compatri- 
ots, or  engaged  in  aom^  ^q^^«J^^  ^MSB^a^va^  practice.  The 
opium-smiiing  liabil  \b  ideK^\oV«t«ff«&XKt.  ^^Xi^sadasi^^ 

18  practiced. 


Ahangines,  FORMOSA  773 

Footbinding  (tensoku)  was  brought  from  the  Fokien  Province  to  Formosa, 
where  it  is  practiced  by  800,616  Chinese  and  Formosans  (more  than  56%  of 
the  island  inhabs.).  There  seems  to  be  no  authentic  record  of  the  origin  of 
compressing  women's  feet  in  China.  Tradition  says  the  practice  was  started 
by  a  lady  called  Yow,  a  delicate  figure  and  an  expert  dancer  at  the  Court  of 
the  Empress  Li.  The  latter  took  so  much  pleasure  in  seeing  her  dance  that 
she  had  made  for  her  a  golden  lotus  flower  6  ft.  in  diameter  and  decked  with 
iewels.  With  her  feet  bound  in  silk  the  lady  Yow  danced  upon  this,  and  her 
bending,  reeling,  swaying  figure  on  the  gold  lotus  was  so  entrancing  that 
poets  referred  to  it  as  'Lotus  steps  and  tottering  plight;  willowy  figure  and 
captivating  sight.'  From  that  remote  time  coquettish  girls  have  imitated 
her  by  binding  their  feet,  in  the  hope  of  more  quickly  obtaining  a  husband. 
Those  with  unbound  feet  are  looked  upon  as  rustic  and  unrefined.  Crushed 
feet  are  termed  'Golden  Lilies'  ( Kin  lien),  and  as  soon  as  a  girl  reaches  her 
4th  or  5th  yr.  the  four  toes  are  curled  forcibly  toward  the  soles  and  are  kept 
compressed  in  small  pointed  shoes.  By  the  7th  or  8th  yr.  the  metatarsal 
bones  are  crushed  and  the  scaphoids  disjointed,  a  state  preserved  by  firmly 
binding  with  pieces  of  white  cloth,  and  forcing  the  feet  into  yet  smaller 
shoes.  Every  day  they,  are  unbound,  washed,  and  bound  again.  As  the 
skin  and  flesh  becom .  <  putrified  from  stoppage  of  the  circulation,  the 
worst  cases  end  in  the  complete  loss  of  the  toes  from  gangrene.  The  lower 
legs  are  often  paralyzed,  and  physical  development  retarded.  Many  women 
die  of  the  infectious  diseases  contracted.  Young  women  are  often  so  crippled 
that  they  cannot  walk  and  have  to  be  carried  on  men's  shoulders. 

The  Aborigines  are  divided  into  two  general  classes:  the 
'raw'  (or  wild),  and  the  *ripe'  (or  tame),  savages  —  which 
includes  many  well  advanced  in  the  process  of  sinification. 
Not  a  few  of  the  latter  are  cross-breeds,  who  have  adopted  the 
language  and  customs  of  the  Chinese  and  are  known  by  them 
as  'domesticated  barbarians.'  Originally  most  of  these  were 
Pehoans  (or  Peipohuans) ^  or  *  savages  of  the  plain,' —  lees  of  a 
once  powerful  tribe  that  dwelt  in  the  W.  part  of  the  island  and 
rose  to  prominence  before  the  Dutch  occupied  the  island  and 
the  Chinese  began  to  people  it.  The  *raw  savages  are  scat- 
tered over  the  whole  region  of  the  central  mt.  range  and  lateral 
ranges  up  to  a  height  of  5000  ft.,  and  over  a  strip  of  land  in  the 
East.  Classified  by  their  bodily  features,  customs,  language, 
etc.,  there  are  9  groups  or  tribes,  divided  into  671  villages,  with 
an  estimated  pop.  as  follows:  — 


People 

Tribes 

Population 

Ami 

84 

31,576 

Atayal  (or  Taiyal) 

182 

28,242 

Paiwan 

110 

21,093 

Vonum  (or  Bimum) 

144 

15,807 

Tsalisen  (or  Tsarisen) 

105 

13.995 

Puyuma  (or  Piyuma) 

14 

6,522 

Tsou  (or  Tsuou) 

39 

2,322 

Yami 

8 

1,667 

Saisett 

2 

757 

Total, 

688 

121.981 

Each  tribe  differs  from  the  others  in  language,  habits,  and 
physical  characteristics,  and  all  are  hostile  toward  one  another. 
Most  of  them  have  hunting  dogs,  and  carry  spears  of  bamboo 
&-7  ft.  long  with  metal  tips  8-9  in.  long.    MV  Yv'aN^  ^^2^s7i 
krises,  which  they  never  put  aside  for  a  momeiiX.,  «w\  tmksss 
possess  rMes,  Jewels  and  iron  vessels  axe  soni^^iaaRft^M^  ^«^ 


774    RotUe  60.  KEELUNG  Xtthm. 

currency  in  bartering.  Men  and  women  pull  out  the  two  lateral 
incisors  from  the  upper  jaw,  to  improve  their  personal  appear- 
ance. The  women  wear  dresses;  adultery  is  punished  by  death. 
The  Ataycds  tattoo  their  faces,  and  because  of  this  are  known 
as  the  tattooed  savages.  They  are  the  fiercest  of  all  the  head- 
hunters,  and  few  are  the  braves  who  have  not  assembled  10  or 
more  skulls;  some  of  their  villages  possess  several  hundred 
heads.  The  Amis  of  the  N.  are  said  to  boil  the  heads  of  vic- 
tims and  eat  the  flesh,  besides  indulging  in  hoiiid  festivities 
when  a  head  is  brought  into  camp.  —  Of  the  3,400,000  in- 
habs.  of  Formosa,  upward  of  100,000  are  Japanese,  and  (150) 
foreigners  of  different  nationalities.  The  official  language  is 
Japanese,  but  many  of  the  places  and  things  are  known  by 
their  Chinese  names.  The  Formosan  vernacular  includes  Fok- 
ienese  (spoken  by  the  Haklos)^  Cantonese  (the  speech  of  the 
Hakkas),  and  many  Chinese  and  native  dialects.  Fokienese, 
the  language  of  84%  of  the  population,  is  the  most  widely 
used.  One  per  cent  of  the  population  is  deaf  and  dumb. 

Bibliography.  For  additional  data  relating  to  the  island  consult:  The 
Island  of  Formosa,  by  J.  M.  Davidson  (Yokohama,  1903).  —  The  Aborigines 
of  Formosa  and  the  Liu-Kiu  Islands,  by  A.  Wirth  (New  York,  1898).  —  For- 
mosa under  the  Dutch,  by  W.  Campbell  (Edinburgh,  1896).  —  From  Far 
Formosa,  by  G.  L.  Mackay  (London,  1900). . —  Japanese  Rule  in  Formosa, 
by  Yosaburo  Takekoshi  (London,  1907).  —  Report  of  the  Control  of  the  Abo- 
rigines in  Formosa,  printed  by  the  Bureau  of  Aboriginal  Affairs  (JBumum 
Honsho),  Taihoku,  1911. 

50.  Keelimg  (Kiirun). 

Keelung  (Jap.  Kiirun) ^  northernmost  and  best  of  the  island 
ports  (pop.  30,000),  18  M.  from  Taihoku j  the  capital,  is  the 
point  at  which  most  travelers  to  Formosa  disembark,  and  is 
in  lat.  25°  0'  N.  and  long.  121°  47'  E.  of  Greenwich,  on  the 
shore  of  a  strikingly  picturesque  bay  that  is  being  converted 
rapidly  (at  a  cost  of  6  million  yen)  into  a  deep  and  safe  harbor. 
The  quay  is  within  3  min.  walk  of  the  rly.  station.  Trunks 
from  the  Custom-House  to  the  station  or  dock,  25-50  sen; 
hand-bags,  10  sen;  jinriki  10  sen;  the  latter  in  the  town,  50  sen 
the  horn*.  Distances  are  short.  The  traveler  will  do  well  to 
remember  that  the  port  and  the  surrounding  country,  within 
a  6i  M.  radius  (including  Kinpori  and  Suihenkyaku;  comp. 
the  accompanying  map),  are  in  the  strategic  zone,  and  that 
photographing,  sketching,  the  making  of  notes,  etc.,  are  for- 
bidden. Cameras  are  regarded  with  suspicion.  The  bizarre 
sandstone  rock  close  oflf  the  W.  entrance  to  the  harbor  is  Ban- 
jintaibi.  The  bald  conical'  island  is  Keelung-to.  The  tide  rises 
about  4i  ft.  Attractive  knolls,  richly  wooded  and  green. to 
their  serrated  tips,  svitrownd  the  harbor  on  three  sides,  and 
from  their  summits  \oii?»,  \g^\m  «X,^^  ^gMia  Wik.  seaward  with 
Tvicked  intent.  Amon^  t^ie  xvxrKietom  Wv^^^  ^t^  sj^ 
Krharves  are  pictutfeaqud^r  d^  Looc>v^l%^«^^^^^^^^V^ 


Keelung  River.    KEELUNG  TO  TAIHOKU    61.  Rte.    775 

offer  island-made  trinkets,  etc.,  for  sale.  Hundreds  of  baskets 
of  pomelos  (jabon  or  zabon)^  a  variety  of  shaddock,  await  ship- 
ment to  Japan.  Numerous  canals  wind  inward  through  the 
nondescript  town,  and  are  crossed  here  and  there  by  arched 
bridges.  Many  of  the  houses  resemble  Chinese  yamensj  the 
dragons  and  other  mythological  animals  on  their  roofs  being 
supposed  by  the  artful  Chinese  to  keep  out  vagrant  goblins. 
Considerable  coal  and  gold  are  mined  in  the  neighborhood,  the 
Three  Gold  Mines  of  Keelung  (discovered  in  1890  by  a  Chinese 
miner  from  California)  being  the  most  productive  (about  5 
million  yen  a  year)  on  the  island.  Originally  a  Spanish  settle- 
ment, Keelung  was  bombarded  and  captured  by  the  Dutch, 
who  in  turn  were  expelled  by  the  corsair  Koxinga.  It  was  held 
by  the  French  from  Aug.  1884,  to  June,  1885,  and  taken  by  the 
Japanese  June  3,  1895.  To  facilitate  landing,  the  manager  of 
the  Taikoku  Hotel  sends  English-speaking  runners  (small  fee 
customary)  to  meet  incoming  ships.  They  are  useful  in  assist- 
ing strangers  through  the  custom-house  and  in  dealing  with  the 
horde  of  screeching  Chinese  coolies  who  essay  to  carry  the 
traveler's  luggage  to  the  station. 

51.  From  Keelimg  to  Taihoku. 

Taiwan  Government  Railway. 

18  M.  Several  through  trains  daily  in  about  1  hr.  Fare,  ¥1.10,  Ist  cl. 
One  can  get  an  indifferent,  pick-up  luncheon  at  one  of  the  several  small  Jap- 
anese restaurants  near  the  station,  and  a  much  better  one  at  the  hotel  m 
Taihoku.  Fruit-stands  abound.  The  Chinese  eatables  and  beverages  should 
be  avoided.  Few  if  any  of  the  people  speak  English.  Prices  are  higher  than 
in  Japan. 

From  Keelimg  the  rly.  passes  through  the  scrawny  suburbs 
direct  into  the  hills,  threading  first  the  Chikushirei  Tunnel 
(1818  ft.  long),  then  crossing  the  Keelung  River ^  a  broad, 
placid  arm  of  the  Tamsui.  Picturesque  features  are  the  many 
hybrid  junks,  with  dragon-wing  sails  and  pig-tailed,  rat-eyed 
Chinese  crews,  that  bring  merchandise  down  from  Tamsui 
Port.  Lofty  green  hills  that  reflect  their  fine  contours  in  the 
water  rise  here  and  there  along  the  bank,  and  far  up  their  sides 
nimble  natives  are  seen  at  work  on  small  patcnes  of  land 
snatched  from  the  jungle  and  subjected  to  cultivation.  After 
leaving  2  M.  HattOy  taU  bamboos  with  feathery  tops  become 
prominent  features  in  the  landscape,  which  at  all  seasons  is 
flecked  with  countless  flowers.  From  this  point  onward  the 
river  parallels  the  rly.  and  fine  glimpses  are  had  of  it  almost  to 
Taihoku.  4  M.  Shichito.  Many  large  handsome  red  blooms  of 
Hibiscus  Rosa  Sinensis  flank  the  rly.,  and  while  idealizing  the 
poor  stations  impart  a  brighter  aspect  to  the  odd,  semi-savage 
country.  As  the  valley  broadens,  knob-like  tearbuohe^  wc^«R«a. 
to  dot  the  hill-sloj)©8,  and  snow-white  craaeB  to  »\«^  ^sawi^^ 
through,  'andsentmei,  the  paddy-fields.  Dense  \\r[i^e9&i^>3^^«^ 


776    Route  62.  TAIHOKU  PracHeal  Not69. 

here  and  there  with  ripening  bananas,  and  lumbering  water- 
buffaloes,  apprise  the  traveler  that  he  is  in  a  Chinese  commu- 
nity of  the  upper  tropics.  The  straw-thatched  houses  behind 
bamboo  fences  and  embowered  in  bizarre  flowers  are  distinc- 
tively Chinese.  An  occasional  red-brick  structure  is  seen,  like 
a  yamerij  with  plaster  dragons  astride  the  ridge.  The  high- 
pitched  roofs  of  red  tiles  are  like  those  of  old  castles^  and  the 
blue  vitrified  gateways  with  penthouse  roofs  and  uptilted  cor- 
ners are  decidedly  picturesque.  They  are  the  outposts  of  many 
such  houses  scattered  through  the  island,  and  usually  are  the 
homes  of  Mongol  aristocrats.  Along  the  raised  paths  that  de- 
limn  the  rice-fields  trot  CantoneSe  coolies  entirelv  naked  save 
a  restricted  loin-cloth  and  a  wide,  home-made  bamboo  hat, 
carrying  shoulder-poles,  on  each  end  of  which  is  slung  a  bucket 
of  water,  a  shallow  basket  with  an  expostulating  black  pig  in 
it,  a  string  of  fish,  a  bunch  of  bananas,  or  enrichment  for  the 
fields. 

The  Rokuto  Tunnel  (454  ft.  long)  and  the  Goto  (597  ft.)  are 
passed,  and  a  green  but  rough  region  traversed  before  8  M. 
Goto  is  reached.  9  M.  Suihenkyaku  is  a  nondescript  town  sur- 
rounded by  curious  trees,  unusual  flowers,  and  wide  tea  planta- 
tions. Beyond  the  Nanko  Tunnel  (316  ft.  long),  the  rly.  tra- 
verses a  regioi\  of  hills  and  valleys  with  fine  blue  mts.  on  the 
sky-line.  12  M.  Nanko,  in  a  rice-growing  district.  The  driver 
now  bends  broadly  to  the  right.  Beyond  14  M.  Shakko,  we 
enter  the  wide  and  beautiful  Twatutia  Valley,  near  the  center 
of  which,  encircled  by  a  diadem  of  green  mts.,  stands  (18  M.) 
Taihoku  (120  ft.).    See  below. 

52.  Taihoku  and  its  Environs. 

Arrival.  The  Rly.  Station  (completed  in  1901 ;  cost,  72,000  yen)  stands 
near  the  N.E.  end  of  Fugo-gai,  on  the  dividing  line  between  Jonai  and  Dai- 
dotei  (comp.  the  accompanying  plan).  The  Manka  and  Daidotei  Staiiona  are 
used  chiefly  by  residents  in  the  respective  quarters.  The  statue  in  the 
station  yard  stands  to  the  memory  of  Kinsuke  Hasegatoa,  a  Japanese  engi- 
neer who  planned  the  Formosan  Rly.  System. 

Jinrikis  (p.  Ixxxviii)  meet  all  trains.  Rates,  20  sen  an  hr.  with  an  upward 
tendency;  10%  extra  in  bad  weather,  and  20%  at  night.  Similar  rates  apply 
throughout  the  island,  although  foreigners  are  usually  expected  to  pay  a 
trifle  more.  Kagos  from  ¥2  to  ¥2.50  a  day.  Not  a  few  of  the  jinriki-men 
are  reclaimed  savages  {dohi)  who  not  long  since  were  seeking  whom  they 
might  decapitate.  There  are  no  cabs  nor  omnibuses.  Distances  are  relatively 
short.  While  the  city  roads  are  good  for  automobiles,  those  in  the  interior 
of  the  island  are  not. 

Hotels.  The  Taiwan  Gov't  Rly.  Bureau  maintains  at  considerable  ex- 
pense an  excellent,  comfortable,  modern,  foreign-style  ^Railxoay  Hotel  for 
the  convenience  of  foreign  visitors,  and  the  traveler  can  do  no  better  than  to 
make  it  his  headquarters.  There  are  no  others  so  good.  The  equipment  and 
food  are  superior  to  those  of  many  of  the  hotels  on  the  Chinese  mainland. 
There  are  wide  cool  liaWs,  e\ec\.xv<i  \i?,h,ta  and  fans,  broad  balconies  with  ex- 
tensive views  over  the  vaWey  \«  \Jaa  xi^vyt->Qi>j  xq}».,  w^  Information  Bureau, 
free  baths  etc    Rates  iiom  ^^  \«  ^"^^  ^  ?^X^  ^^^^V^^^^"^^  '^  '^^^  "» 1 


Taipeh,  TAIHOKU  S^.  RotOe.    777 

Dinner,  ¥2.  Luggage-checks  can  be  delivered  to  the  hotel  manager.  Truck 
holding  4  or  more  trunks  and  several  hand-bags,  ¥1.  Laundry  in  the  hotel 
from  5  to  15  sen  per  piece.  The  drinking-water  is  from  a  deep  artesian  well, 
and  is  supposed  to  be  good.  In  planning  coimtry  trips  the  traveler  will  save 
time,  money,  and  trouble  by  seeking  the  advice  of  the  hotel  manager  (Eng- 
lish spoken),  who  will  procure  guides,  etc. 

Banks,  where  letters  of  credit,  drafts,  etc.,  may  be  cashed  and  money  ex- 
changed: The  Taiumn  Bank  (B.  of  Formosa),  a  gov't  institution  (founded  in 
1899),  Hokumon-gai  (PI.  C,  2-3).  —  The  34th  Bank  is  near  by.  Japanese 
money  is  current  in  the  island,  and  is  interchangeable  with  the  special  notes 
issuedi  by  the  Taiwan  Gov't  Bank.  —  The  Post-0£9lce  is  va._Hokumon-gai 
(PI.  D,  2)  near  theHokumon  fN.  Gate).  The  OflSce  of  the  Osaka  Shosen 
Kaisha  Steamship  Co.  is  near  the  rly.  station. 

Shops.  The  best  are  poor  and  contain  nothing  to  interest  f  oreigners^.  The 
Japanese  shops  are  generally  branches  of  larger  establishments  in  Osaka, 
with  mixed  stocks.  One  will  search  in  vain  for  desirable  curios.  The  imita- 
tion Chinese  porcelains  are  made  in  Japan  and  are  of  the  trashiest  order. 
Native  weapons  and  the  like  may  sometimes  be  bought  at  the  hotel  —  where 
there  is  a  case  of  foreign  toilet  requisites.  Attractive  wood  souvenirs  of  vari- 
ous kinds  can  be  bought  at  the  local  prison  referred  to  hereinafter.  The  old  < 
Chinese  matchlocks  {jing-gaUs)  to  be  found  occasionally  are  about  9  ft.  long 
and  are  unprepossessing  relics  of  early  days.  The  postage-stamps  of  the  early 
Taiivan Republic  are  apt  to  be  forgeries.  The  so-called  Panama  Hats  (rintO' 
bo)  are  made  in  the  prison  workshops  and  at  various  places  on  the  island. 
The  brown  ones  (¥2-3)  are  called  Taiko-bo  (from  Taiko,  the  region  whence 
they  come) ;  and  the  white  ones  (¥2  to  ¥8)  Shiroi-boshi  ('white  hat').  They 
are  made  from  the  fiber  of  the  Screw  Pine  (Pandamia  odoratissimus  —  the 
bright  orange-colored  fruit  of  which  is  called  breadfruit,  and  the  richly 
scented  male  flowers  of  which  are  the  source  of  the  keora-oil  of  perfiuners) ; 
and  from  the  Taika  Rush  (species  undefined)  from  which  the  fine,  soft,  flex- 
ible Taika  mats  are  made.  Hats  to  the  value  of  ^  million  yen  are  manufac- 
tured yearly. 

Taihoku  (tie-ho'-koo),  the  Japanese  name  for  the  old  Chi- 
nese Taipeh  (tie-peh')  or  North  Capital,  the  present  adminis- 
trative seat  (Sotoku-fu)  of  the  Governor-General  (Sotoku)  of 
the  island,  is  a  picturesque  semi-Asiatic  city  with  clean  wide 
streets,  a  good  hotel,  banks,  museums,  colleges,  a  fine  park  and 
botanical  garden,  and  a  growing  population  of  85,000,  one 
third  of  which  are  Japanese.  It  stands  near  the  northernmost 
edge  of  Formosa  in  lat.  25°  4'  N.  and  long.  121°  28'  E.  of 
Greenwich,  on  a  broad,  level  plain  that  sweeps  up  from  the 
Tamsui  (Chinese,  *  Sweet,  or  Fresh  water')  River  to  tumbled 
masses  of  verdure-covered  mts.  which  from  time  immemorial 
have  been  the  stronghold  of  ferocious  head-hunting  savages. 
By  tact  and  patience  many  of  these  have  been  induced  to  leave 
their  aerie  villages  and  live  among  the  civilized  folks  on  the 
plain,  where  they  serve  as  servants,  jinriki-pullers,  and  general 
utility  men.  So  many  of  them  wear  queues,  and  bear  such  a 
strong  likeness  to  Chinese,  that  although  the  visitor  may  see 
them  often  in  the  streets  he  is  not  always  able  to  distinguish 
them.  The  city  shows  the  refining  and  colonizing  influence  of 
the  Japanese  in  various  ways,  perhaps  most  of  all  in  the 
thoughtful  preparation  for  future  expansion.  Its  mt.  environ- 
ment and  its  broad  streets  and  parks  remind  one  of  the  hand- 
some Yezo  city  of  Sapporo,  Many  of  the  modem  aspects  of  the 
metropolis  are  due  to  the  genius  of  the  first  (1897  to  1906)  civU. 
governor,  Baron  Shimpei  Goto,  a  bronze  statue  to  'wVoxa.^XasAa 


r 


778    Route  62,  DAIDOTEI  OoUmg  Tea. 

in  the  Shinko-en  (PI.  C-D,  2-3).  The  Tamsui  River  flows  past 
the  city  on  the  W.  and  the  Keelung-gawa  (which  intersects  it 
near  by)  on  the  E. 

The  city  is  divided  into  the  districts  of  Jonaif  or  that  quar- 
ter once  encircled  by  the  old  wall;  Manka  (or  Banka),  the 
original  extramural  settlement  at  the  W.;  and  Daidotei  (die- 
doh-tay')  at  the  N.,  where  the  Chinese  now  dwell  along  with  the 
foreigners  in  the  original  Foreign  Concession.  The  ponderous 
walls  which  inclosed  the  inner  city  were  12-15  ft.  high  and 
9-12  ft.  thick,  and  with  the  great  gates  that  gave  ingress  to  this 
fortified  spot  were  constructed  by  the  acting  Chinese  Prefect 
in  1879  —  from  which  time  Jonai  dates.  Though  the  Japanese 
have  destroyed  the  wall,  the  picturesque  old  gateways  still 
stand  as  mute  reminders  of  a  period  when  heavily  armed 
guards  were  needed  to  protect  the  pursy  Chinese  rulers  from 
the  invading  head-hunters  who  swarmed  in  the  near-by  mts. 
The  hotel,  the  administrative  buildings,  and  most  of  the  mod- 
ern structures  are  in  Jonaiy  everything  outside  of  which  is  re- 
ferred to  as  Jogai  (suburbs).  The  district  just  outside  the  S. 
Gate  {Na-mon)  is  called  Na-mon  gai-gai  (pronounced  guy); 
the  W.  Gate  (Seirmon)^  Seinnon  gai-gai;  the  N.  Gate  {Hoku- 
mon)f  Hoku-mon gai-gai;  and  the  E.  Gate  {T(Mrn(m)j  To-mon 
gairgai.  The  main  street,  Hoku-mon  gai,  is  50-60  ft.  wide,  and 
like  many  of  the  others  has  a  deep  cemented  drain  at  its  edge 
to  carry  oflf  the  great  downpours  of  rain.  The  best  streets  run 
N.  and  S.;  those  devoted  to  the  Chinese  have  arcades  or  clois- 
ters to  protect  pedestrians  from  the  elements.  The  city  is  em- 
bowered in  flowering  trees,  chief  among  them  acacias  and  the 
flaming  red  HihisciLs  Rosa  Sinensis.  The  military  air  is  pleas- 
ing to  foreigners;  the  barracks  are  filled  with  soldiers,  and  the 
sound  of  bugles  is  heard  often. 

Daidotei  (or  Taitoteij  or  Twatutia;  lit.,  'a  large  yard  covered 
with  bundles  of  rice  spread  to  dry'),  forms  the  N.E.  suburb 
(see  the  plan)  and  stands  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Tamsui  River 
about  10  M.  from  its  mouth.  Here  a  number  of  British  and 
American  merchants  have  oflfices  and  warerooms,  and  hither 
comes  for  preparation  and  shipment  most  of  the  tea  grown  on 
the  island.  The  greater  part  of  the  district  is  covered  with  two- 
story  brick  houses  in  the  Chinese  style,  with  tile  insets,  iri- 
descent porcelain  ideographs,  dragons,  and  what-not,  and  with 
arcades  beneath  which  many  women  and  girls  sit  and  sort  and 
pack  the  odoriferous  Formosa  tea  {Taiwan  cha)  for  which  the 
island  is  famous.  The  entire  district  is  redolent  of  the  aromatic 
herbs  with  which  much  of  the  tea  is  scented.  Besides  the  tea- 
firing  godowns  there  is  nothing  to  detain  the  traveler.  The 
white  church  at  the  N.  border  is  Roman  Catholic. 

Formosa  Oolong  Tea  was  prcxluced  in  imitation  of  the  Chinese  Oolong  of 
Fokien  to  satisfy  the  taste  oi  tVie  maxiv  Fokicrwae  who  migrated  thence  and 
aettled  in  Taiwan,  It  has  a  pecvjSiaxVs  ^xkfc  ^wot ,  vsA  ^\aa\ft  ckjiite  di£Feren( 


(useum,  TAIHOKU  6^.  Route,    779 

rom  the  Chinese,  which  is  a  black  tea  with  a  green-tea  flavor,  and  which  ac- 
nired  its  name  Oolong  ('black  dragon')  from  the  circumstance  that  a  CMn- 
se  tea-grower  was  once  struck  with  the  delicate  fragrance  of  the  leaf  from  a 
>lant  where  a  black  snake  was  found  coiled.  The  annual  production  in  For^ 
nosa  is  about  20  million  lbs.  (valued  at  about  5  million  yen),  a  limit  said  to 
be  maintained  by  the  growers  to  prevent  a  lowering  of  the  price.  The  Oolong 
is  in  great  demand  in  the  United  States,  whither  about  9  million  lbs.  go  each 
year.  About  6  million  lbs.  of  Potochong  (a  name  which  refers  to  the  mode  of 
packing)  are  also  produced.   Its  best  market  is  in  Java,  Hawaii,  and  coun- 
tries where  Chinese  are  found.   Jasmine,  tuberoses,  and  other  flowers  are 
mixed  with  the  tea  to  impart  an  aromatic  flavor  to  it  —  a  process  popular- 
with  the  Celestials.  It  is  packed  in  boxes  of  about  25  catties  (approz.  30  lbs.), 
and  is  exported  chiefly  through  Keelung. 

One  of  the  prettiest  sights  of  Tvmtvtia  is  the  gay,  laughing  crowd  of  Chi- 
nese girls  who  come  each  morning  during  the  summer  from  Taihoku  to  work 
in  the  big  tea-firing  and  sorting  godowns.  With  their  fresh  voung  faces  be- 
daubed with  white  paint  and  rouge,  their  sloe-black  hair  combed  in  a  shining 
mass  to  one  side  of  the  head  and  adorned  with  a  sprig  of  jasmine  or  a  mag- 
nolia bloom,  and  their  chubby  faces  and  snapping  black  eyes  radiant  with 
provocative  piquancy,  they  step  blithely  along  and  add  a  quaint  and  interest- 
ing note  to  the  town.  The  eyes  are  customarily  the  only  index  of  emotion, 
and  the  brows  are  often  blackened  with  charred  sticks  or  narrowed  to  re- 
semble a  nascent  willow  leaf,  or  the  moon  when  first  seen.  The  following 
ballad  pictures  them  well:  — 

*  Eyebrows  shaped  like  leaves  of  willows 
Drooping  over  "  autumn  billows" ; 
Almond-shaped,  of  liquid  brightness, 
Were  the  eyes'  of  Yang-kuei-fei.' 

Many  *  tottering  lilies '  teeter  with  the  throng,  the  tiny  crippled  feet  en- 
cased in  brilliantly  embroidered  shoes,  and  the  legs  in  light  blue  or  laven- 
der silk  trousers.  If  (says  an  authority)  a  Chinese  lady  ever  breaks  through 
the  prohibition  against  displaying  her  person,  she  presents  her  feet  as  the 
surest  darts  with  which  a  lover's  heart  can  be  assailed!  —  Some  of  these  tea- 
sorters  are  as  much  addicted  to  maternity  as  the  cigarette-makers  of  Seville, 
and  not  a  few  carry  young  bead-eyed  Mongolians  slung  in  wide  black  bands 
over  one  hip.  These  pig-tailed  little  toddlers  do  not  always  heighten  one's 
relish  for  the  finished  tea,  as  the  big  piles  of  leaves  ready  for  sorting  and  per- 
fimiing  are  oftentimes  their  playgrounds,  and  through  and  over  them  they 
tiunble  and  waddle  with  infantile  disregard  for  consequences.  The  white  blos- 
soms which  the  visitor  will  note  scattered  through  the  piles  of  leaves  are  not 
tea  blossoms,  but  are  jasmine  flowers,  orange  blooms,  etc.,  put  in  to  impart 
aroma.  The  women  earn  from  10  to  15  sen  a  day:  5000  or  more  Chinese  are 
brought  over  each  year  from  Amoy  to  assist  in  the  preparation  of  the  vast 
crop.  The  finest  leaves  bring  from  ¥4  to  ¥5  a  lb.  Choice  tea  is  put  up  in 
attractive  1-lb.  packages  and  sold  at  the  hotel  at  ¥1  each. 

The  Taihoku  Museum  ( Hakitbutsukwan)  is  open  daily  from 
9  to 4  (admission,  5  sen),  and  is  housed  in  a  commodious  struc- 
ture 10  min.  walk  from  the  hotel,  in  the  Hokumon-gai  (PI.  C.  2). 
Though  small  it  is  complete,  and  a  visit  to  it  is  in  a  way  lite  a 
trip  through  the  island.  A  big  cannon  and  a  curious  old  For- 
mosanship  stand  in  the  yard.  On  the  Ground  Floor  is  a  collec- 
tion of  segments  of  the  splendid  native  trees  from  the  Arisan 
forest,  many  of  the  flawless  planks  being  3  ft.  wide.  Numerous 
cases  are  devoted  to  specimens  of  native  handiwork,  and  to 
objects  used  by  the  head-hunters.  The  models  of  the  camphor- 
distillery,  sugar-mills^  ore-crushing  mills,  and  salt-pits  show 
the  processes  of  working  up  the  native  products.  The  samples 
of  paper  are  made  from  thepith  of  the  jjaper-mulberry  (Papy- 
rius  papyriferd).  On  the  Upper  Floor  is  an  admirable  colIeG- 


780    Route  62.  TAIHOKU  Boimdcal  Garden. 

tion  of  island  snakes,  wonderful  butterflies,  birds,  tropical 
moths,  and  jewel-like  insects.  Those  which  resort  to  proteo- 
tive  mimicry  for  safety  are  the  most  interesting.  The  marine 
specimens  are  noteworthy  only  for  the  huge  sea-turtles.  One 
of  the  rooms  is  filled  with  boats,  clothing,  ornaments,  knives, 
kriseSy  etc.,  of  the  head-hunters,  along  with  numerous  gruesome 
skulls.  The  bead-work  is  singularly  like  that  of  the  American 
.Indians,  particularly  the  wampum.  The  excellent  collection 
of  minerals  shoiid  not  be  overlooked.  — The  big  building  adja- 
cent to  the  museum  is  the  Bureau  of  Engineering  (Dobokubu- 
kyoku). 

The  Botanical  Garden  (Bydho),  in  the  S.  suburb  (PL  C,  4), 
a  beautiful  spot  well  worth  visiting,  contains  pretty  lakelets, 
summer-houses,  conservatories,  wide  avenues,  and  many  speci- 
mens of  the  trees  and  flowers  for  which  Formosa  is  noted. 
While  it  is  particularly  attractive  during  the  dew-drenched 
hours  of  the  early  morning,  late  twilight  is  perhaps  the  best 
time  for  a  visit,  as  night  brings  out  the  perfume  of  many  of  the 
rarest  flowers,  and  adds  a  charm  which  even  the  tropical  sun 
does  not  give.  Occidentals  will  be  interested  in  the  splendid 
camphor  trees;  the  tallow  tree  (StUlingia  sebifera);  the  Thuya 
Formosana;  the  Murraya  exotica  (valuable  for  its  perfume) ;  the 
sacred  Champak  {Michelia  champaka)  of  India;  the  Indian 
Lilac  {Melia  Azedarach)^  or  the  Pride  of  India,  cultivated  for 
its  fine  wood,  its  flowers  and  medicinal  products;  and  in  other 
bizarre  and  beautiful  specimens.  The  Podocarpus  nageia  is 
grown  for  its  valuable  gum.  The  Liquidambar  exudes  a  gum 
referred  to  as  copal-balsam.  The  fine  acacias  are  representa- 
tives of  a  tree  widely  disseminated  throughout  the  island,  and 
are  beautiful  because  of  their  flowers.  This  also  applies  to  the 
Allamanda  (Apocynaceos),  whose  bright  yellow  blooms  are 
seen  everywhere.  Flower-lovers  will  find  much  to  interest 
them.  The  most  popular  with  the  Chinese  is  the  Saffron 
Flower  (CrociLS  salivas;  the  Korankwa  of  the  Japanese),  and 
the  exquisitely  fragrant  Jasmine,  much  prized  by  the  native 
women,  who  put  a  spray  in  their  hair  every  morning,  and  who 
may  be  detected  some  distance  off  at  night  by  its  penetrating 
odor.  The  Chinese  are  also  passionately  fond  of  tuberoses 
((reA;A;aA;o  =  ^ fragrance  under  the  moonlight'),  and  of  the  omni- 
present Rose  of  Sharon  {Hibiscus  syriacus),  with  its  numerous 
odorless  bluish-pink  blooms.  Many  of  the  150  known  species 
of  hibiscus  grow  wild  in  Formosa,  one  of  the  most  common  be- 
ing the  Rose  Mallow,  which  furnishes  the  okra  or  gumbo. 
Hibiscus  cannaMnus  has  been  introduced  from  India  and  is 
used  as  an  ornamental  plant.  From  H.  TilaceiLS  the  Paiwan 
savages  obtain  a  fiber  from  which  they  make  twine;  and  the 
astringent  petals  of  H.  RosorSinensis  are  used  by  the  Chinese 
women  as  a  black  dye  for  the  hair  and  eyes.  It  is  well  to  remem- 
ber that  the  handsome  \ea\ea  ^\et^\i  qki  to^  and  maroon 


Camphor,  TAIHOKU  5^.  Route .    781 

undemeatii)  of  Exccecaria  Bicolor  exude  a  juice  which  is  said  to 
be  blinding  and  poisonous.  Near  a  hedge  of  these  plants  the 
visitor  will  note  numerous  specimens  of  the  shy  Mimosa  pudica 
with  leaves  so  sensitive  that  whole  rows  close  up  at  the  slight- 
est touch.  The  bizarre  Bou^gainvillcea,  which  travelers  to  Brit- 
ish India,  Mexico,  and  California  know  so  well,  is  represented 
in  various  shades.  Most  conspicuous  among  the  superb  orchi- 
daceous plants  is  the  splendid  Butterfly  Orchid,  so  called  from 
its  resemblance  to  a  butterfly,  and  prized  not  only  for  its 
strange  beauty  but  for  the  lasting  quality  of  the  flower.  —  The 
Taiwan  Gov't  maintains  an  Agricultural  Experiment  Station 
(Noji  Shikenjo)  in  the  outskirts  of  Taihoku  (78  acres),  and  a 
card  of  admission  can  be  obtained  from  the  hotel  manager. 

The  Monopoly  Bureau  (PL  C,  4),  where  the  bulk  of  the 
world's  supply  of  camphor  is  refined,  and  where  all  the  opium 
smoked  on  the  island  is  elaborated,  is  highly  interesting.  A 
card  of  admission  (necessary)  can  be  obtained  from  the  hotel 
manager.  Visitors  are  welcome,  and  English  is  spoken.  Fees 
are  neither  expected  nor  accepted.  The  big,  factory-like  build- 
ings stand  near  the  S.  Gate  (the  Lycee  Mon  of  the  Chinese),  10 
min.  walk  from  the  hotel  (5  min.  by  jinriki,  10  sen).  The  visitor 
is  shown  the  complicated  processes  of  refining  the  camphor 
(attractive  souvenir  packages  on  sale  at  the  hotel  at  40-80  sen, 
according  to  size)  and  of  treating  the  crude  opium.  The  hotel 
manager  will  plan  a  visit  to  one  of  the  camphor  stations  in  the 
Savage  Territory  for  whosoever  is  willing  to  run  the  risk  of 
leaving  his  head  there! 

Camphor  (Henno;  shono)  has  been  manufactured  by  the  Japanese  and 
Chinese  for  centuries,  and  its  introduction  into  Formosa  is  due  to  the  Hak- 
kas.  The  Camphor  Tree,  or  Camphor  Laurel  (Laurua  camphora,  a  represen- 
tative of  the  evergreen  genus  Cinnamomum  of  the  laurel  family;  Jap.  Kusu- 
no-ki),  is  the  giant  among  foliaceous  trees  in  Japan  and  Formosa,  where  it 
grows  chiefly  in  the  Savage  Territory,  or  on  its  borders.  Because  of  its  great 
height  (sometimes  130  fl.)  and  girth  (30-40  ft.),  it  is  called  the  lord  of  the 
forest.  The  trees  which  produce  the  best  camphor  grow  at  an  elevation  not 
exceeding  4000  ft.  (practically  the  altitude  which  suits  coffee  best);  cover 
an  area  of  approximately  1500  sq.  M.,  and  are  said  to  contain  enough  of  the 
drug  to  supply  the  world's  requirements  for  100  yrs.  A  big  tree  will  yield 
camphor  worth  ¥5000  or  more,  while  comparatively  small  ones  are  worth 
from  ¥150  to  ¥300.  A  medium-sized  tree  12  ft.  or  more  in  circumference 
will  yield  about  50  piculs  of  crystaUized  camphor  worth  about  ¥1500.  Ex- 
periments conducted  in  the  South  of  the  United  States  show  that  in  10  yrs. 
seedlings  develop  into  trees  30  or  more  ft.  high  and  30  in.  in  circumference. 
They  mature  and  produce  much  quicker  in  Formosa  than  in  Japan,  where 
from  30  to  40  yrs.  elapse  before  a  tree  is  large  enough  to  net  a  profitable  re- 
turn. The  latter  are  not  so  rich  in  gum  as  the  former.  Trees  which  grow  in 
shaded  valleys  in  a  moist,  heavy  soil  are  not  as  productive  as  those  exposed 
constantly  to  the  sun.  The  volatile  oils  are  developed  in  various  parts  of 
the  tree,  even  in  the  long-stemmed,  quickly-warping,  even-edged,  leathery, 
brilliant,  dark-green  leaves. 

The  young  branches  break  off  easily,  and  after  every  heavy  wind  a  large 
nimiber  of  them  are  usually  found  on  the  ground.  From  this  circumstance 
the  tree  rarely  develops  a  symmetrical  crown.  But  what  it  loses  in  beauty 
it  makes  up  in  its  mighty  form.  Apart  from  the  difference  of  foliage,  and  in 
the  production  of  blossom  and  fruit,  an  old  camphor  tree  resembles  uoIVs^ts^ 
BO  much  as  a  stately  oak,  in  its  thickness  of  tnuuL*  tb,e  vfanl  ol  «:rEQXDA\>vs  v&. 


782    Route  62.  TAIHOKU  Opium. 

its  crown,  its  mighty  gparled  and  twisted  boughs,  and  its  rough,  torn  bark. 
The  wood  is  fragrant,  and  when  old  is  of  a  nch  brown  color,  well  veined, 
with  a  silky  sheen.  Because  of  its  freedom  from  the  attacks  of  insects,  it  is 
very  desirable  where  termites  and  small  red  ants  are  a  plague,  and  is  there- 
fore in  great  demand  with  the  Chinese,  who  make  sea-chests,  cabinets,  moth- 
proof ^xes,  and  what-not  from  it.  Until  ihe  advent  of  the  Japanese  the 
natives  ruthlessly  destroyed  the  trees  without  replacing  them,  but  the  pre- 
sent system  of  afforestation  regulates  this.  Before  the  production  of  ciun- 
Ehor  became  (in  1898)  a  gov't  monopoly,  37  persons  held  manufacturii^ 
censes,  and  in  the  7000  or  more  crude  stoves  in  which  the  drug  was  refined, 
3i  million  lbs.  of  gum  and  2\  million  lbs.  of  oil  were  produced  annually  and 
shipped  abroad  through  Hongkong.  The  present  output  (about  8  nullion 
lbs.  valued  at  3  million  yen)  goes  to  Japan. 

As  the  camphor  forests  lie  chiefly  in  the  territory  of  the  head-hunters,  many 
men  lose  their  lives  in  the  adventurous  undertaking  of  securing  the  camphor 
chips  for  distillation.  These  are  cut  from  the  tree  at  a  certain  point  until  it 
falls,  then  the  entire  tree  is  cut  up  into  small  pieces  and  put  in  crude  distil- 
ling stoves.  Steam  passing  through  a  receptacle  containing  the  chips  and 
leaves  volatilizes  the  camphor  in  the  form  of  vapor,  which  is  condensed  into 
a  semi-solid  gum  and  a  pale  volatile  oil,  both  of  which  float  on  the  water. 
The  oil  is  distilled  repeatedly  until  most  of  the  crystallized  product  is  ex- 
tracted, then  both  are  sent  to  the  gov't  factory  for  further  treatment.  When 
the  coarse  crystals  and  oil  come  into  the  refinery,  the  former  looking  like 
dirty  snow,  and  the  latter  like  yellow  spindle-oil,  both  are  impure,  the  crys- 
tals being  saturated  with  water,  and  the  oil  with  various  organic  stuff.  The 
crystals  are  shoveled  into  a  huge  iron  hopper  leading  to  a  tightly  closed 
retort  imder  which  a  fierce  fire  bums.  To  hasten  evaporation,  air  is  forced 
in,  and  the  camphor  fumes,  cooled  by  running  water,  crystallize  in  a  big 
room  the  sight  of  which  the  traveler  does  not  soon  forget.    It  is  oftentimes 

Eiled  high  with  fluffy  crystals  as  white  as  driven  snow,  which  sparkle  in  the 
ght  and  throw  off  an  almost  overpowering  odor.  This  product  is  called 
Flower  of  Camphor,  and  is  97%  pure  (the  'Improved  Crude'  of  commerce). 
After  being  pressed  into  hard^  firm  bricks,  and  packed  in  zinc-lined  boxes,  it 
is  ready  for  shipment.  Considerable  camphor  is  sent  to  Europe  and  America 
in  a  semi-refined  state,  in  tubs  weighing  250  lbs.  each.  —  The  visitor  is  asked 
to  sign  his  name  in  a  register  before  he  leaves  the  building.  Those  who  wish 
are  C9nducted  through  the  opium  department. 

Opium  (ahen;  afuyo)  is  the  inspissated  juice  of  Papaver  aomniferum,  a 
poppy  cultivated  from  early  antiquity  for  the  sake  of  this  product.  Opium- 
smoking  (called  by  the  Japanese  ahen-en,  or  ahen-tabako)  is  the  favorite  vice 
of  the  Chinese,  who  call  the  plant  afuyung,  a  transliteration  of  the  Arabic 
n&iae  A/yun.  It  was  brought  from  Arabia  in  the  9th  cent.  Other  names  are 
•great  smoke,'  *black  conmiodity,'  'black  earth,'  and  'foreign  medicine'  — 
by  which  term  it  is  known  in  the  tariff.  The  Japanese  call  the  tincture  ahen- 
chinki,  but  they  are  forbidden  to  smoke  it.  The  chief  active  principle  of 
opium  (which  is  a  powerful  narcotic  poison)  is  morphia,  but  it  also  contains 
about  16  other  alkaloids,  some  of  which  have  similar  proi>erties.  The  raw 
materials  are  imported  from  India,  Persia,  Turkey,  and  China.  The  Indian 
product  resembles  black-currant  jam;  the  Persian  is  like  reddish-brown  in- 
cense-sticks. The  process  of  crushing  it,  then  steaming  it  in  huge  vats,  and 
adding  wine  and  other  relishes  to  impart  a  piquant  taste,  is  interesting.  The 
rooms  are  filled  with  the  disagreeable  odor  of  burning  medicine.  None  of  the 
300  or  more  employees  smoke.  The  finished  product  is  packed  in  1-lb. 
tins  in  3  grades;  the  best  quality  retailing  for  about  ¥21,  the  2d  at  ¥17,  and 
the  3d  at  ¥13.  The  Bureau  pays  out  about  5  million  yen  a  year  for  mate- 
rials and  for  expenses,  and  nets  about  1  million  yen  —  a  considerable  item  of 
the  island  revenue. 

There  are_  upward  of  100,000  smokers  in  Formosa,  each  of  whom  uses 
about  37  grains  a  day,  for  which  %  sen  are  paid.  The  death-rate  among  them 
is  high.  The  first  efforts  of  the  Japanese  to  stamp  out  the  evil  by  prohibit- 
ing the  importation  of  opium  (a  ruling  strictly  enforced  in  Japan)  failed 
utterly,  and  it  was  soon  discovered  that  no  amount  of  punishment  would 
stop  devotees  from  smoking  it  or  smugglers  from  importing  it.  To  drive  the 
best  Chinese  from  the  island  was  at  variance  with  the  colonial  policy  of  the 
cosquerors,  who  wer^  ioiced  to  ca^vVAaX^  \Q  T^^waaity .  While  it  is  regarded 


Maruyama  Park,  TAIHOKU  62,  RovAe.    783 

as  impossible  to  lessen  materially  the  number  of  confirmed  smokers,  the 
monopoly  (established  in  1897)  aims  to  restrict  the  consumption,  and,  by 
educating  the  children,  ultimately  to  stamp  out  the  evil.  The  principle  of 
limiting  the  supply  to  smokers  is  adhered  to.  Each  must  have  a  special 
license,  and  any  one  who  imports,  sells,  gives,  or  exchanges  opium  without 
the  consent  of  the  authorities  risks  5  yrs.  in  prison  and  a  5000  yen  fine.  De« 
spite  its  disastrous  aftermath,  the  Chinese  believe  in  the  medicinal  qualities 
of  the  drug,  and  they  blow  smoke  in  the  faces  of  new-bom  children  to  make 
them  utter  the  firat  cry.  Smokers  are  in  misery  until  they  procure  opium, 
and  if  thwarted  will  become  frantic  and  commit  excesses.  Formerly  keepers 
of  opium-dens  offered  the  drug  free  to  young  men  to  induce  them  to  acquire 
the  habit,  and  about  seven  per  cent  of  the  populace  court  an  early  death  by 
its  use. 

The  Taipeh  Prison  (PI.  D,  4)  5  min.  walk  to  the  left  (E.)  of 
the  Monopoly  Bureau,  stands  at  the  back  of  a  large  compound 
entered  through  a  big  gate,  and  is  interesting  chiefly  for  the 
Salesroom  wherein  are  displayed  many  articles  made  by  the 
prisoners.  The  inlaid  wood  trays,  small  pieces  of  furniture 
showing  the  beautiful  grain  of  the  camphor  wood,  soft  mats 
and  chair-cushions  made  from  Taiko  fiber,  Formosan-Panama 
hats  and  other  articles  are  cheap,  and  some  of  them  make 
pretty  and  desirable  souvenirs.  Visitors  are  welcome,  and  Eng- 
lish is  spoken.  Card  of  admission  from  the  hotel  manager. 

Maruyama  Park  (PI.  E,  1),  2  M.  N.E.  of  the  hotel,  with  its 
greatly  revered  shrine  {Taiwan  Jinsha)^  is  one  of  the  prettiest 
spots  m  the  environs.  The  highroad  is  good  (delightful  walk 
in  the  early  morning)  and  frequent  trains  on  the  Tamsui  Line 
stop  at  the  Maruyama  Station,  From  this  we  cross  the  track 
and  bear  to  the  left.  The  temple  at  the  base  of  the  hill,  over- 
looking the  station  and  a  big  lotus-pond,  is  the  property  of 
the  Rinzai-shuy  a  branch  of  the  Zen  sect  of  Buddhists.  On  the 
crest  of  the  first  hill  beyond  the  bridge  over  the  Keelung  River 
is  a  handsome  bronze  shaft  on  a  gray  granite  pedestal,  with 
4  bronze  tablets  3  ft.  sq.  let  into  its  sides,  and  depictinjg  in  a 
spirited  manner  certain  episodes  in  the  Japanese  campaign  on 
the  island.  The  pretty  view  from  the  summit  is  surpassed  by 
the  one  at  the  shrine  farther  on.  The  fine  avenue  which  leads 
up  to  this  is  flanked  by  junipers,  acacias,  and  other  flowering 
trees,  and  (near  the  foot  of  the  steps)  by  big  machine-guns, 
stone  lanterns.  Dogs  of  Fo,  and  a  handsome  big  bronze  torii. 
The  copper-roofed  Shinto  shrines  stand  on  rising  terraces 
reached  by  60  stone  steps,  and  are  dedicated  to  His  Imperial 
Highness  Prince  Kitashirakawaj  Commander-in-Chief  of  the 
Imperial  Japanese  Army  at  the  time  of  the  occupation,  who 
died  of  fever  at  Tainan,  Oct.  28,  1895,  aged  49  yrs.  The  view 
from  the  terrace  over  the  broad  plain  is  magnificent.  The  city 
spreads  away  at  the  left,  and  many  picturesque  junks  float 
languidly  on  the  smooth  waters  of  the  Keelung  and  TamMd 
Rivers  winding  gracefully  round  the  foot  of  the  hill. 

An  Excursion  to  a  Village  of  Reclaimed  Savages  can 
be  made  by  conferring  with  the  hotel  manager  axid  oVAAJicmsi^ 


784    Routes  63-64.     TAIHOKU  TO  TAKAO  HckM, 

a  police  escort.  The  nearest  to  Taihoku  is  Fushakuy  about  5  M. 
distant;  reached  by  hand-car  to  (4  M.)  Shinten,  and  kago  the 
rest  of  the  way.  Car  for  2  pers.,  62  sen;  kdgo,  ¥2  a  day. 
The  road  is  bad,  and  is  apt  to  be  impassable  in  rainy  weather. 
fThe  villagers  call  themselves  Urai.  They  are  a  dirty  lot,  with 
but  little  to  show  the  traveler. 

53.  From  Taihoku  Tift  Hokuto  to  Tamsui. 

Taiwan  Government  Railway. 

14  M.  Several  trains  daily  in  1  hr.  Fare,  60  sen.  From 
Taihoku  the  line  rims  out  through  the  N.  suburb,  passes 
Maruyama  Park  (right),  crosses  the  Tamsui  River y  and  beyond 
4  M.  Shirin,  enters  a  semi-tropical  region  devoted  to  the  culti- 
vation of  sugar-cane.  At  7  M.  Hokuto  (Chinese,  Paktau)  there 
is  a  locally  celebrated  Hot  Spring  often  made  the  objective 
point  of  an  excursion  from  Taihokuy  and  which  the  traveler  so 
mclined  may  see  between  trains. 

Following  the  main  st.  through  the  unkempt  town  one  soon  sees  steam  ris- 
ing from  the  spring  at  the  far  left.  At  5  min.  from  the  station  the  road  forks, 
and  by  continuing  to  the  right  (5  min.)  one  comes  to  the  small  semi-foreign 
Sh6td-en  Inn  (¥3  and  upward,  Am.  pL),  where  a  local  guide  can  be  had  for 
25  sen  to  conduct  one  out  through  the  town  (left)  to  the  edge  of  the  guldi 
(35  min.)  and  to  a  bath-house  overlooking  a  deep  depression  whence  steam 
rises,  and  about  which  there  are  often  naked  bathers.  The  place  is  called 
Yumoto,  and  about  2  M.  beyond  it  (slippery  trail  in  wet  weather),  in  a 
burned-out  cone  in  the  Daiton  Range,  are  insignificant  mud  springs  and  some 


volcanic  activity.   The  Hoktdo  Tansan  mineral  water  (comp.  p.lxriv)  sold  in 

apples. — 
stone  found  in  the  vicinity  and  called  Hokuio-seki  is  said  to  contain  radium. 


Taihoku  comes  from  hereabout,  along  with  many  pineapples.  —  A  peculiar 


From  Hokuto  the  rly.  continues  across  rice-paddies  to  9  M. 
KantaUj  beyond  which  a  tunnel  is  threaded  befofe  the  line 
parallels  the  Tamsui  River,  which  here  is  almost  as  broad  as 
the  Ohio  at  Cincinnati. 

14  M.  Tamsui  (or  Hobe),  a  wretched  Chinese  town  (Inn: 
Kawaguchi-ya,  ¥3)  sprawling  along  the  hillside  overlooking  the 
river  and  the  sea,  contains  the  ruins  of  some  Dutch  and  Span- 
ish fortresses  built  during  the  17th  cent.,  and  is  a  favorite  port 
of  Chinese  junks  from  the  mainland.  The  Spaniards  erected 
a  trading-station  here  in  1629,  and  a  church  dedicated  to 
Nv£stra  Senora  del  Rosario  (Our  Lady  of  the  Rosary),  but 
were  ousted  from  both  by  the  Dutch  in  1642.  Considerable  tea 
is  grown  on  the  adjacent  hills,  and  before  the  Japanese  took 
Tamsui  in  1895  it  was  one  of  the  most  important  shipping- 
points  in  the  island.  It  is  unpicturesque  and  not  over-healthy. 

54.  From  Taihoku  via  Toyen,  Shinchiku,  Byoritsu,  Taicfan 
(Rokko),  Kagi,  and  Tainan  (Anping)  to  Takao. 

Taiwan  Government  Railways. 

229  M.  One  through  tiam  dwly  in  about  12  hrs.    Fare,  1st  el.  ¥11.94- 
In  the  buffet-cai  one  can  ftet\io\i\fc«k%9»wA'««\0Ma,\iuned  (the  canned    "" 


PANKYO  garden      64,  RotUe.    785 

apple  is  delicious)  and  bottled  goods  at  reasonable  prices.  Fruit  in  great 
variety  is  sold  at  the  chief  stations,  along  with  passable  bento  (p.  Ixzxiv),  and 
native  dishes  which  the  non-immune  will  do  well  to  avoid.  The  rly.  equip- 
ment and  most  of  the  train  employees  are  Japanese,  and  the  service  is 
prompt  and  efficient.  Electric  fans  are  installed  in  the  1st  d.  cars.  Many 
of  the  station-men  are  Chinese  or  half-castes  who  wear  their  queues  coiled 
like  black  snakes  round  their  heads  beneath  the  regulation  caps.  Japanese 
are  in  charge  of  the  important  stations  and  they  will  always  direct  the  trav- 
eler to  the  best  inn  in  the  town  or  be  of  service  in  other  ways.  Numerous 
push-car  lines  branch  away  from  the  main  line  of  the  rly.,  and  go  usually  to 
small^  places  of  no  interest  to  foreigners.  The  most  important  branches  are 
mentioned  in  their  proper  places. 

From  Taihoku  the  rly.  half-circles  the  capital,  and  after 
passing  the  Manka  Station  runs  out  through. the  tawdry  sub- 
urbs toward  the  S.W.  The  broad  Tamsui  is  crossed  on  the 
Shintenkei  Bridge  (1280  ft.  long),  and  then  a  region  so  Chinese 
in  all  its  outer  aspects  that  the  occasional  Japanese  house  one 
sees  seems  out  of  place.  Many  blue-bloused  Celestials,  and 
blue-black  water-buffaloes  are  aescried  at  work  in  the  fields  of 
sugar-ctoe  or  rice  or  grain,  for  hereabout  the  land  is  intensively 
cuTtivated  and  almost  every  foot  is  made  to  produce  something. 
Brightly  clad  Chinese  damsels  trip  across  the  country  paths, 
and  the  women  who  wash  the  family  linen  in  pools  and  streams 
add  color  and  picturesqueness.  Not  a  few  of  the  red-brick 
houses  sit  back  in  spacious,  flower-embowered  yards,  and  are 
marked  by  an  air  of  prosperity  and  homely  comfort  curiously 
at  variance  with  the  squalor  prevalent  in  China.  5  M.  Pankyd 
(pank-yo'),  a  Chinese  town  with  many  quaint  peaked-roofed 
houses,  is  celebrated  locally  for  a  handsome  garden,  the  prop- 
erty of  a- Chinese  millionaire,  Mr.  Ling  Hong  Gen. 

The  traveler  unacquainted  with  formal  Chinese  landscape  gardening  in  its 
different  phases  may  feel  repaid  for  a  trip  hither.  Fare  from  Taihoku  (and 
back),  60  sen.  Card  of  admission  can  be  obtained  of  the  hotel  manager  who 
will  send  alon^  one  of  the  hotel-boys  as  interpreter  and  guide.  By  boarding 
an  early  mormng  train  one  can  inspect  the  garden  and  be  back  at  the  hotel 
by  noon.  Visitors  who  api>ly  beforehand  for  pennission  aite  welcome,  and 
fees  are  unnecessary.  Within  the  garden  (a  few  min.  walk  from  the  rly.  sta- 
tion) is  a  pretty  lakelet,  half-moon  bridges,  boats,  flowers,  fantastic  rocks, 
miniature  pagodas,  winding  paths,  beautiful  dwarf  trees,  stunted  shrubs, 
and  the  usual  accompaniments.  Aromatic  tea  is  served  to  favored  guests. 
There  is  nothing  to  see  in  the  town  proper,  beyond  the  single  street  with  its 
native  women,  sometimes  dressed  smartly  in  mauve  silk  jackets,  pale-blue 
ailk  trousers,  and  embroidered  shoes  that  impart  a  pleasing  air  of  cleanliness 
and  comeliness.  The  better  classes  wear  considerable  rich  yellow  gold  fili- 
gree jewelry,  seed  pearls,  and  jade  as  hair  ornaments.  The  slender  jade 
braoelets  worn  by  the  well-to-do  are  put  on  in  youth  and  are  never  re- 
moved. 

From  Pankyo  the  rly.  traverses  a  rich  and  productive  region 
crossed  and  re-crossed  by  numerous  streams.  Considerable 
fruit  is  grown,  with  bananas  and  luscious  pineapples  predom- 
inating. 7M.Jurin.  lOM.  Sanshikyaku.  Beyond  the  C/ia«an 
Tunnd  (1439  ft.  long),  and  13  M.  Okasehi^  the  country  iaidftsi- 
isedbya  wealth  of  naming  Bowera,  prominent  aTnon"SEj\Xi<Kai>i)aa 
Dopular  hibiscus.  The  rougfi  country  beyond  Wie  \BCWJii\iS^ 
t  the  left  was  once  the  resort  of  head-hunters. 


786    Route  6^,  BYORITSU  Taichu, 

17  M.  Toyen,  capital  of  the  prefecture  of  the  same  name, 
stands  on  a  wide,  tree-dotted  plain  flecked  with  lakelets.  8  M. 
to  the  S.E.  is  the  old  town  of  Taikokan  (Tokoham)  amid  pretty 
scenery.  20  M.  Kanshikyaku,  23  M.  Chureki,  28  M.  An- 
peichiUf  with  a  big  tea  factory.  Beyond  43  M.  Komoden^  the 
Hozan  River  is  crossed  on  a  bridge  1130  ft.  long.  The  soil  here- 
about is  a  reddish  brown,  and  impregnated  with  iron  which  is 
thought  to  give  a  certain  flavor  to  the  tea  that  thrives  so  vigor- 
ously. The  sea  is  visible  at  the  far  right.  Many  camphor  trees 
grow  on  the  slopes  of  the  mts.  at  the  far  left.  Stretches  of  the 
country  recall  the  mesa-lands  of  New  Mexico.  45  M.  Shin- 
chiku  (Chinese,  Teck-cham)^  seat  of  the  Shinchiku  pTefectwml 
government,  is  one  of  the  oldest  towns  on  the  island.  A  branch 
rly.  runs  E.  to  the  near-by  town  of  Juhirin,  and  another  W.  to 
KyukOf  a  port  at  the  mouth  of  the  Hozan  River.  —  The  rly. 
now  follows  the  sea  for  some  distance.  In  the  high  mts.  visible 
at  the  left  are  the  strongholds  of  the  head-hunting. Ato^ 
savages.  Beyond  56  M.  Chuko  the  line  crosses  the  Ch^o 
River,  a  mere  trickle  in  the  dry  season,  but  a  dangerous  tor- 
rent after  the  smnmer  rains. 

66  M.  Bydritsu  (Chinese:  Maoli),  a  prefectural  town  and 
the  end  of  a  rly.  division,  is  the  starthig-point  for  (10  M.,  lieht 
rly.)  Shikkoko,  where  there  are  numerous  petroleum  w^. 
Good  bento  is  sold  at  the  station,  along  with  excellent  persim- 
mons packed  in  plaited  baskets.  The  rly.  now  runs  upward 
between  hills  covered  with  acacias,  graceful  bamboos,  pal- 
mettoes,  and  pampas  grass.  72  M.  Dorawan.  Beyond  77  M. 
Sansaho,  in  a  mountainous  region,  we  cross  the  Naisha-gawa 
on  a  bridge  114  ft.  above  the  stream  (the  highest  on  the  line). 
A  Government  Experimental  Farm  for  the  cultivation  of 
camphor  and  tea  is  located  near  here.  Hence  to  92  M.  Koroton 
the  construction  work  was  very  costly;  nine  tunnels  pierce  the 
hills  and  3  rivers  are  crossed,  the  widest,  the  Taian.  on  a 
bridge  1663  ft.  long.  The  highest  point  (1220  ft.)  is  marked  by 
a  signal-station.  Five  yrs.  were  necessary  to  complete  the 
work,  which  was  concluded -in  1907.  As  the  train  emerges 
from  No.  7  Tunnel  (4126  ft.  long)  it  crosses  the  dirty,  slate- 
colored  Taian,  which  flows  past  a  strikingly  picturesque  prom- 
ontory at  the  far  right.  Beyond  87  M.  Korisho,  Tunnel  No. 
9  (4166  ft.  long)  is  threaded,  and  the  gray-black  Taiko  Rim 
is  crossed  on  a  steel  bridge  1245  ft.  long. 

92  M.  Koroton  (811  ft.),  embowered  in  tropical  trees,  pos- 
sesses the  largest  rice-market  in  Formosa.  The  graceful  Areca- 
palms  make  pleasing  figures  in  the  landscape.  A  small  rly.  runs 
hence  to  Toseikaku  at  the  E.,  and  to  Shako  at  the  W.  —  As  the 
train  proceeds  southward  the  great  barrier  range  is  seen  to  fine 
advantage  at  the  left.  Numerous  swift  streams  course  from  it 
to  the  sea.  101  M.  Taiclau  (?14  ft.;  pop.  8000),  a  busy  pre- 
fectural  town  with  a  pioivoMaeed  m^Xai^  ?ks^ct,  was  known 


Shoka,  LAKE  CANDIDIUS       S4.  Route,    787 

formerly  as  Taiwan-fu  and  from  1877  to  1895  was  the  capital 
of  Central  Formosa.  The  two  passable  inns,  the  Haruia-kwan 
(with  a  branch  at  Takao)  and  the  Maruyama-kwan  (i  M. 
from  the  station;  jinriki,  10  sen),  are  in  the  Japanese  style; 
rates  from  ¥3  and  upward.  Lunch€K)n  in  the  station  dimng- 
room,  ¥1.50.  The  bento  at  35  sen  is  only  tolerable.  Broad 
paddy-fields  and  a  lazy  river  flank  the  town,  which  is  a  pleas- 
ing blend  of  Chinese  and  Japanese  architecture  and  the  center 
for  a  considerable  trade  in  camphor,  indigo,  tobacco^  and  China 
grass  (for  making  fine  cloth).  The  Bank  of  Taiwan  has  a 
branch  here,  and  the  governmental  administrative  offices  are 
near  the  station.  The  small  park  at  the  S.E.  edge  of  the  town 
contains  a  pretty  lakelet,  summer-houses,  etc.  Conspicuous 
features  of  the  environs  are  the  silk-cotton  trees  (Bombdx 
ceiba),  the  seeds  of  which  are  covered  with  a  silky  fiber  too 
short  for  textile  uses,  but  which  are  used  by  the  Chinese  for 
stuffing  pillows,  etc.  Here  thrive  also  several  paper-produc- 
ing plants,  and  the  curious  Candleberry  (Aleurites  cordata  — 
Jap.  dburor-giri),  or  Chinese  varnish  tree,  the  oil  from  the 
nuts  of  which  is  used  in  Polynesia  for  candles,  and  in  China  for 
painting. 

A  branch  rly.  runs  due  S.  from  Taichu  through  wild  and 
primitive  country.  By  following  it  the  traveler  with  time,  a 
willingness  to  rough  it,  and  to  risk  his  head,  may  visit  the  most 
imp)ortant  of  the  very  few  Formosan  lakes,  Jitsugetsuian  (or 
Suishako),  referred  to  usually  as  Lake  Candidius,  from  GeoT' 
gitisCandtdiiis,  the  first  missionary  to  visit  the  island  (in  1627). 

A  guide  (necessary)  can  be  obtained  of  the  Japanese  authorities  (who 
should  be  advised  of  one's  plans)  at  about  ¥4  a  day.  Unless  one  can  eat 
Japanese  food  other  provisions  should  be  taken  along.  Fruit  is  plentiful 
everywhere,  and  the  hunter  will  find  game  in  variety.  By  starting  from  Toi- 
chu  early  in  the  morning  (12  M.)  Soaton  can  be  reached  in  the  afternoon. 
The  stopping-place  on  the  2d  evening  is  (25  M.)  Horisha,  a  melancholy  set- 
tlement on  the  edge  of  the  Savage  Territory,  where  considerable  camphor  is 
produced.  The  next  10  M.  is  through  a  hilly  region  with  lofty  mts.  at  the 
left.  The  lake,  which  is  about  10  M.  in  circumference,  and  2400  ft.  above 
sea-level,  near  the  foot  of  Mt.  Suisha,  is  picturesquely  situated  and  recalls 
Yumoto  in  the  Nikko  highlands.  A  few  reclaimed  Peipohan  savages  live  on 
its  border,  and  from  its  unsounded,  pellucid  depths  draw  a  species  of  almost 
transparent  sardine,  and  a  spiny  little  fish  with  dark  meat.  The  native 
boats  are  crude  dug-outs  made  from  forest  trees.  The  pretty  but  lonely  is- 
land in  the  center  of  the  lake  is  Shujiaan.  Unless  one  is  prepared  to  camp,  it 
is  necessary  to  pudh  on  to  (6  M.)  Shushu,  from  which  place  Nihachisui  (12 
M.  distant)  is  reached  (on  the  afternoon  of  the  4th  day).  Northbound  trav- 
elers may  reverse  the  trip  and  join  the  rly.  at  Taichu.  Under  no  considera- 
tion should  the  journey  be  undertaken  without  consulting  the  Japanese 
authorities,  as  head-hunters  not  infrequently  stray  down  from  the  mts.  on 
bloody  forays,  and  foreign  life  is  held  as  cheaply  vby  them  as  Chinese.  Fur- 
thermore, foreign  heads  are  novelties! 

From  Taichu  the  main  line  proceeds  S.W.  toward  the  sea, 
passing  the  unimportant  stations  of  105  M.  UjUsu,  and  108  M. 
DaitOf  before  traversing  the  wide  valley  of  the  Daito  (or  Taito) 
River  to  112  M.  Shoka  (Chinese,  Chang-wha,),  a  dreary  and  de- 
pressing town  of  18,000  inhabs.  founded  in  1723.  M.o&\.  ol  ^3Da 


788    Route  64.  MT.  MORRISON  Kagi, 

original  stenches  remain.  Tolerable  accommodations  can  be 
had  at  the  Shoka  Hotel  (a  small  inn)  at  ¥3  a  day  (Japanese 
style).  The  town  lies  in  a  sort  of  basin  into  which  everything 
from  roundabout  drains,  and  until  quite  recently  was  noted  for 
its  insalubrity.  The  bizajre  and  parlous  inhabitants  are  Amoy 
and  Tswengchoo  Haklos  who  still  practice  many  peculiar  cus- 
toms —  the  most  prominent  being  uncleanliness.  The  narrow 
streets  are  as  odoriferous  as  some  in  old  Shanghai.  Over  many 
of  them  are  stretched  flimsy  temporary  roofs  which  protect 
pedestrians  from  the  sun  and  impart  the  tunnel-like  aspect  of 
Syrian  bazaars.  Head-hunters  have  raided  the  town  on  many 
occasions,  and  the  Japanese  bombarded  and  took  it  (com- 
memorating monument  on  Hakkei  Hill)  Sept.  3,  1895.  The 
only  curios  worth  taking  away  are  the  quaint  fans  made  of 
Areca  leaves.  —  Rokko  (Lokiang),  a  sometime  prominent  ship- 
ping-port 7  M.  to  the  W.  (light  rly.)  was  founded  in  the  10th 
cent,  and  seems  not  to  have  changed  much.  From  TcLkatsur 
kutsu,  83  M.  S.  of  Tamsui,  near  the  mouth  of  the  DaUo  River, 
many  piratical-looking  junks,  laden  with  rattan,  pineapple, 
fiber,  pith-paper,  peanut  oil,  and  other  native  products,  sail 
for  the  mainland  of  China. 

From  Shoka  the  rly.  goes  due  S.  over  a  level,  attractive  re- 
gion flecked  here  and  there  with  cane-  and  paddy-fields,  wild 
lilies  and  plumed  pampas  grass.  The  cloud-piercing  giants  of 
the  Central  Range  rise  grandly  at  the  left.  Poor  stations  and 
an  occasional  Chinese  village  break  the  regularity  of  the  scene. 
Beyond  131  M.  Nihachisui  the  rly.  crosses  the  Dakusu  River 
on  a  14-span  iron  bridge  2917  ft.  long  (longest  on  the  line).  The 
floating  logs  which  come  down  from  (20  M.)  Mt.  Randai  are 
caught  at  various  points  by  Chinese  loggers  and  poled  up  con- 
verging streams  to  primitive  sawmills.  The  water  of  the 
main  stream  is  a  repulsive  slate  color,  with  the  dense,  tragic 
leaden  paJlor  of  death.  — :  137  M.  Rinnai. 

Mt.  Morrison  (13,075  ft.),  in  the  Savage  Territory,  under  the  Tropic  of 
Cancer,  the  highest  point  in  the  Japanese  Empire,  is  now  visible  at  the  left. 
Kagi  is  the  nearest  station  to  it.  It  was  named  by  Mr.  R.  Stoinhoe  for  the 
captain  of  the  British  steamship  Alexander,  the  first  to  enter  the  port  of  An' 
ping.  When  Formosa  was  made  a  coloniad  possession,  the  Mikado  changed 
the  name  to  NiitaJca-yama  (New  High  Mt.).  The  Chinese  call  it  Gyokusan 
(jade;  precious  gem,  etc.).  Some  of  the  finest  camphor-wood  forests  of  the 
island  belt  its  symmetrical  sides.  The  ascent  can  be  made  only  under  a  heavy 
guard,  as  the  region  swarms  with  head-hunters.  Permit  and  armed  escorts 
can  sometimes  be  obtained  from  the  Japanese  authorities. 

162  M.  Kagi  (Inn:  Kagi  Hotel,  facing  the  station;  ¥3  and 
upward;  native  style).  Next  to  Tainan  this  is  the  oldest  settle- 
ment (pop.  21,000)  in  S.  Formosa.  The  Japanese  have  con- 
verted it  into  a  busy  prefectural  town,  and,  despite  the  de- 
structive earthquake  of  1905,  have  erected  several  substantial 
buildings.  Indigo  is  grown  in  the  vicinity,  which  is  known  few 
its  natural-gas  wells  and  petroleum  springs.  Considerable 
6amboo-work  is  madelieie,  a^oxv^VVOci^^T^r  from  the  bamboo 


Inping.  TAINAN  S4,  Route.    789 

ith.  A  Chinese  specialty  is  a  sort  of  jelly  made  from  the  fruit 
f  the  Aigyo  {Ficus  pumila).  Numerous  light  rlys.  branch  out 
rom  Kagi,  the  most  important  one  being  the  ML  Art  Line 
0  42  M.  Aiisan. 

Between  Kagi  and  Mt.  Ari  (or  Nimandaird)  the  rly.  crosses  70  bridges, 
breads  73  tunnels  and  innumerable  cuts,  and  in  order  to  reach  the  7000  ft. 
3vel  at  Ari  Station  zigzags  in  a  sinuous  way  up  stiff  mt.  grades  and  occasion- 
lly  circles  obstructive  peaks  by  means  of  spiral  track.  From  (9  M.)  Chiku- 
oki  the  grade  in  places  is  1  in  20.   From  the  slanting  cars  one  looks  down  at 
imes  into  magnificent  gorges  choked  with  splendid  primeval  forest  trees  hun-> 
Ireds  of  yrs.  old  and  immensely  tall.  The  trunks  of  some  are  60  ft.  in  circum-> 
ference,  and  not  a  few  rise  50  ft.  straight  before  putting  out  a  single  branch. 
The  country  is  too  crude  yet  to  be  comfortable,  and  the  traveler  who  pene- 
trates it  to  the  lumber-camps  (American  machinery)  must  be  prepared  to 
rough  it. 

From  Kagi  southward  the  rly.  runs  through  a  vast  sugar- 
growing  country  watered  by  mt.  streams.  The  numerous  sta- 
tions are  small  and  call  for  no  particular  mention.  As  we 
approach  Tainan  the  sea  is  visible  at  the  far  right,  and  numerous 
vessels  are  descried  anchored  in  Anping  Harbor. 

200  M.  Tainan  (pop.  53, (XX)),  the  one-time  capital  (Tainan- 
fu)  of  S.  Formosa,  now  the  administrative  seat  of  Tainan  Pre- 
fecture, stands  in  lat.  23**  6'  N.  and  long.  129**  5'  E.  of  Green- 
wich, and  is  one  of  the  most  important  ports  of  the  island. 

Of  the  two  Japanese  inns  (the  Hotel  Shiskun-en,  and  the  Asahi-kwan)^  the 
former  (in  the  Kokokoshi-gai,  \  M.  from  the  station;  jinriki,  10  sen)  is  per- 
haps the  best  (¥3  a  day  and  upward),  as  tolerably  good  meat,  eggs,  cray- 
fish, etc.,  can  be  had,  along  with  a  foreign  table  and  knives,  forks,  etc.  Jap- 
anese beds.  Demand  a  mosquito-net,  as  this  light  militia  of  the  air  is  a  pest. 
—  The  Climate  is  moist,  hot,  and  unhealthy  in  summer,  but  cool,  dry,  and 
bracing  in  winter.  Non-immune  travelers  should  be  careful  of  the  drinldng- 
water,  and  should  never  touch  miUc  that  has  not  been  boiled.  A  good  bottled 
mineral  water  (the  Takaradzuka  Tansan,  of  Japan,  is  recommended)  is  the 
safest  beverage. 

To  the  Chinese  (who  form  three  fourths  of  the  population) 
Tainan  (or  Taokien)  is  of  great  historical  interest,  for  the  old 
city  walls  (quadrangular,  20  ft.  high,  5  M.  long)  and  the  medi- 
aeval gates  which  pierce  them  were  built  by  their  progenitors 
(in  1723)  as  defensive  measures  against  head-hunters  from  the 
near-by  mts.,  and  the  no  less  bloodthirsty  pirates  from  the  sea. 
Hither  in  1622  came  the  marauding  Dutch  under  Cornelius 
Reyersz  to  build  their,  twin  forts  which  the  great  Koxinga  and 
his  tailed  corsairs  captured  in  1GQ2.  The  ruins  of  the  first, 
Fort  Zelandia,  erected  in  1630,  stand  at  Anping,  while  the 
more  sturdy  Provintia  still  does  good  service  m  Tainan  as  a 
military  hospital.  For  nearly  2(X)  yrs.  the  town  (kiiown  for- 
merly as  Anting- Chin  J  or  *City  of  Peace')  was  the  capital  of 
Formosa,  and  its  narrow  streets  and  smoke-begrimed  hongs 
bear  all  the  ear-marks  of  a  Chinese  settlement.  A  light  rly.  ex- 
tends from  the  station  to  the  (2i  at  the  W.)  port  of  Anfing. 
now  but  a  simulacrum  of  its  former  self.  Passengers  who  land 
here  should  endeavor  to  come  ashore  in  the  ship's  boat  rather 
than  employ  the  clumsy  catamaran  used  by  the  natives  in  ^tel- 


790    Route  64^  TAINAN  Native  Types, 

erence  to  the  more  comfortable  sampan.  They  are  often  noth- 
ing but  big  rafts  of  bamboo  lashed  together  and  propelled 
either  by  a  sail  of  woven  matting  or  by  a  paddle.  A  light  rail 
runs  clear  round  them,  and  the  passenger  sits  in  a  big  tub  near 
the  center.  —  Harbor  Works  are  in  progress,  but  until  the  dan- 
gerous bar  can  be  removed,  ships  that  anchor  in  the  roadstead 
in  the  typhoon  season  are  kept  in  instant  readiness  to  slip  their 
cables  and  run  for  shelter  to  the  Pescadores.  The  coast  shoals 
rapidly,  and  during  the  S.W.  monsoon  (which  blows  during 
June-Sept.)  there  is  such  a  heavy  swell  that  the  staunchest 
boats  have  difficujty  in  reaching  the  boat-camber  near  the 
lighthouse.  The  Osaka  Shosen  Kaisha  (see  p.  607)  maintains 
a  frequent  service  to  Amoy,  SwatoWj  and  Hongkong,  and  to 
Yokohama. 

The  Tainan  Mtiseum  {Hakubutauktoan),  in  Yoahirin-gai,  contains  a  col- 
lection of  Formosan  products,  etc.,  inferior  to  that  in  the  Taihoku  Museum. 
Hard  by  is  a  shrine  dedicated  to  Prince  Kitashirakawa.  The  Kaizan  Jinsha 
stands  to  the  memorjr  of  Koxinga. 

One  notes  many  racial  diflFerences  between  the  Chinese  of  this  old  S.  strong- 
hold and  the  present  capital  of  Taihoku.  Here,  as  in  S.  China,  the  familiar 
black  Cantonese  turban  is  more  in  evidence  than  the  distinctive  Ningpo, 
Peking,  or  Shanghai  skull-cap.  Beneath  the  wound  turbans  lie  the  shiny, 
snugly  coiled  queues,  often  thrust  through  with  a  long-stemmed  pipe  which 
slants  beside  the  wearer's  face.  The  men  possess  the  true  Cantonese  intoler- 
ance for,  and  hatred  of  the  '  foreign  devil '  {wai-4.'  or  fan-kwei  —  'external 
barbarian'),  and  they  blink  at  them  somewhat  as  an  owl  blinks  at  the  light. 
Many  of  the  native  women  wear  complicated  head-dresses  interwoven  with 
silver  coins,  seed  pearls,  jade  pins,  and  ornaments  of  fine  gold.  Cross-breeds 
are  common,  and  in  their  staring  eyes  one  sees  the  half-wild  look  inseparably 
associated  with  savages  of  low  mentality.  True  Formosans  chew  the  beta- 
nut  as  incessantly  as  their  Malayan  prototypes,  and  some  of  them  could  be 
mistaken  easily  for  Singapore  folks.  —  The  older  streets  of  Tainan  are  cov- 
ered with  matting  awnings,  to  exclude  the  sun.  At  night  they  are  thronged 
with  a  medley  of  Southern  types  plentifully  besprinkled  with  reclaimed 
head-hunters.  All  seem  to  enjoy  the  infernal  din  caused  by  exploding  fire- 
crackers and  musicless  Chinese  music.  The  7000  Japanese  dwell  in  a  section 
with  wider  streets,  where  the  houses  have  porticoes  that  reach  to  the  curb. 
The  Joas-Houses  of  Tainan  compare  unfavorably  with  the  dignified  Bud- 
dhist temples  of  Nippon. 

Southward  from  Tainan  the  rly.  goes  for  miles  through  cane- 
fields  that  recall  the  wide  cornfields  of  Kansas.  Luscious  tropi- 
cal fruits  grow  in  great  profusion,  prominent  among  them 
globular  pumelos  ( Citrus  decumana)  almost  as  big  as  pumpkins. 
Among  the  fruits  best  liked  by  the  natives  is  the  parami,  or 
Breadfruit  of  Asia  {Artocarpus  integrifolia) .  The  delicious 
Manila  mango  of  this  region  has  the  true  turpentine  flavor, 
and  the  small,  sweet  pineapples  are  as  good  as  those  of  Java. 
Pomegranates,  lichis,  guavas,  figs,  oranges,  bananas,  splendid 
persimmons,  and  a  host  of  minor  fruits  thrive  luxuriantly  and 
impart  a  material  interest  to  the  views.  At  certain  of  these 
southern  stations  various  interesting  racial  types  assemble  to 
see  the  '  fire-spitting*  engine  of  the  *  foreign  devil,'  and  here 
the  hybrid  Chinese  seem  to  take  on  a  languorous,  lackadaisical 
air,  as  if  in  tune  witVi  the\wa\v\.TO^\Q>^,  Gay  young  silken-dad 


Jaracen  Head.  TAKAO  64,  Rmde,    791 

Lotharios  with  glossy  black  pig-tails,  in  which  dainty  ribbons 
are  entwined  ahd  at  the  nether  end  of  which  an  adorable  true- 
love  knot  of  baby-blue  ribbon  is  tied,  are  conspicuous  features 
in  the  crowds,  as  are  also  greasy  paterfamilias  who  view  the 
world  through  huge  tortoisenshell  goggles  and  go  laden  with 
baskets  of  fruit,  or  shiny,  well-browned  roasted  ducks  in  split 
bamboo  wickers.  The  men  elbow  the  women  aside  in  the  most 
ruthless  manner,  with  a  keen  eye  for  number  one,  and  a  large 
disdain  for  the  hindermost.  At  all  the  big  stations  one  sees  the 
silent  power  behind  the  throne  in  the  shape  of  spruce,  hel- 
meted,  beleggined,  gloved,  dignified,  ceremonious,  but  un- 
failingly helpful  Japanese  military  men.  Compared  to  the  be- 
nighted islanders  they  seem  like  beings  from  another  and 
brighter  world  —  as  in  truth  they  are.  As  a  rule  they  are  as 
restless  as  a  bug-professor  in  July  —  mapping  the  country, 
classifying  the  plants,  climbing  unexplored  mts.,  building 
waterworks,  railways,  and  school-houses,  and  pushing  their 
drag-nets  closer  and  closer  about  the  murderous  savage  tribes. 
On  one's  travels  through  the  island  one  is  scarcely  ever  out  of 
hearing  of  be-spectacled  and  Panama-hatted  entomologists, 
miner^ogists,  arborealogists,  and  others,  who  to-day  are  doing 
for  Formosa  what  men  like  KaempfeTf  Thunhergj  VonSieboldf 
and  others  did  for  Japan.  They  seem  to  exercise  the  British 
quaUties  of  tact,  patience,  and  firmness  in  their  ded.Ung8  with 
the  natives. 

229  M.  Takao  (Inns:  Haruta-kwaiif  opposite  the  station; 
Takao  Hotels  both  in  Japanese  style,  ¥3  and  upward),  a  great 
shipping-port  for  Formosan  products,  has  a  well-sheltered  har- 
bor with  breakwaters  (cost  5  million  yen)  completed  in  .1913. 
The  administrative  buildings  and  the  Foreign  Concession  are 
on  the  N.  side;  the  native  quarter  and  shops  at  the  foot  of 
the  hill  called  Saracen  Head.  An  old  Chinese  fort  anciently 
crowned  the  summit  of  this,  and  the  town  records  teem  with 
stories  of  the  valor  exhibited  by  the  Chinese  in  its  defense.  A 
curious  (and  highly  improbable)  one  relates  that  once  when 
Japanese  pirates  attacked  the  port,  the  astute  Mongolian  com- 
mander filled  a  host  of  bamboo  tubes  with  live  wasp©  and  set 
them  afloat.  The  credulous  Nipponese  opened  them  in  the  be- 
lief that  they  were  torpedoes,  and  were  so  badly  stung  that  the 
Chinese  captured  them  all!  In  later  times  (1895)  the  Japanese 
returned  this  compliment  by  taking  the  town,  bag  and  baggage! 
—  The  odd  weed  which  grows  on  the  surface  of  the  sea  here- 
about is  called  katanchu.  The  Bank  of  Taiwan  has  a  branch 
here.  The  Osaka  Shosen  Kaisha  maintains  a  frequent  and 
efficient  steamer  service  with  Shanghai  (fare,  ¥75),  Yokohama, 
etc.  —  The  Branch  Rly.  to  14  M.  Ako  is  a  link  in  the  line 
which  eventually  will  connect  all  the  large  towns  of  the  E. 
coast. 


INDEX 


Consult  the  Index  at  pages  vi,  1,  2,  242,  327,  365-66,  647.  693.  and  761. 
Note  in  the  Index  below,  that  the  chief  points  of  interest  in  Tdkyo  come 
under  that  head.  This  system  applies  also  to  the  other  principal  cities, 
and  to  Yezo,  Korea,  and  Formosa. 


Abacus  xxvi. 
Abe  River  373. 
Abiko  Jet.  306. 
Abukuma    River     321, 

322. 
Adams,  Will  38,  135. 
Afuri-jinsha  368. 
Agatsuma  River  96. 
Agematsu  387. 
Agriculture  cxxxviii. 
Aichi  Ken  381. 
Aikawa  85,  313. 
•   Ainoma  169. 
Aioi-no-matsu  633. 
Aizen  Myo-6  220. 
Akagi-san  89. 
Aka8hi633. 
Akiha  374. 
Akita  325. 
Ako  634. 
Amagi-san  370. 
Amanqhashidate   533, 

539.^ 
Amaterasu  cclxii. 
Ame  65. 
Amida  ccii. 
Andon  126. 
Antimony  638. 
Aomori  318. 
Arakawa  81. 
Arayii  320. 
Architecture    clxxii, 

clxxxi. 
Arima  628. 

Arisugawa  (Prince)  159. 
Arita  656. 
Art  cexxii. 
Arzobispo  Is.  105. 
Asakawa  394. 
Asama-yama  71,  73. 
Asamushi  318. 
Ase^ata  Pass  301. 
Ashikaga  cclxviii. 
Ashihoyu  61. 
Ashio  Copper  Mines  300. 
Atami  54,  61,  64. 
Atsuta  375. 
Automobiles  Ixxxvi. 
Awaji  Island  632. 
Awata-yaki  ccliv. 
Ayabe  Jot.  535. 
Azaleas  120. 
Azuma-yama  323. 


BaggagejGuggage)  Ixxxiii 

Baku  172. 

BandSi-san  321. 

Banko-ware  599. 

Banks  xxiii. 

Bantan  Rly.  634. 

Banzai  146. 

Basha  xci. 

Beer  Ixxiv. 

Beggars  clxiii. 

Benkei  315. 

Benten  ccviii. 

Bento  Ixxxiv. 

Beppu  687. 

Besshi  Copper  Mine  638. 

Bessho  Hot  Springs  77. 

Betto  70. 

Bibliography  cclxxxii. 

Binzuru  ccviii. 

Birds  86.  88. 

Biwa  Canal  505. 

Biwa  Lake  506. 

Bodaiju  cciii,  282. 

Boju  686. 

Bonin  Islands  105. 

Bon  Matsuri  662. 

Bosatsu  ccix. 

Boshu  241. 

Bridges     clxxxvi,     146, 

386,  399. 
Bronze-work  ccxlix. 
Buckwheat  97. 
Buddha  clxxxix,  cciii. 
Buddhism  clxxxix. 
Buddhist    architecture 

clxxii. 
-  Divinities  cxcix. 

—  Sects  cxcix. 

—  Temples  ccix. 
Bushido  cexxii. 

Cablegrams  xcvii. 
Camellias  120. 
Camphor  781. 
Canadian  Pacific  Rly.  & 

S.S.  Line  xii. 
Castles  clxxxiv. 
Ceramics  ccU. 
Chadai  system  xli. 
ChamsBcyparis  243. 
Changchun  757. 
Cha-no-yM  cytl,  415. 
\C\iem\i\polb\, 


Cheny  Trees  118. 
Chiba  236. 
Chichibu  Range  95. 
Chigai  dana  460. 
Chigasaki  368. 
Chikuma'-gawa  76. 
Chinda  Fall  686. 
Chinhai  Bay  729. 
Chinnampo  755. 
Chit  xxxi. 
Ch5  Densu  436. 
Chokai-zan  324. 
Choshi  240. 
Chopsticks  cxii. 
Christian  Religion  cczz. 

667,  670. 
Chronological     Table 

cclxxviii. 
Chrysanthemum  120. 
Chudan  455. 
ChudS  Meguri  51. 
ChQgoku  Rly.  635. 
Chusonji  315. 
Chuzenji  298. 
Cicada  civ. 
Climate  Ixvi. 
Cloisonne  Enamel  ccl. 
Coal  cxlix. 
CoIor-P*rints  ccxxxi. 
Colors  117. 
Commercial    Travelers 

xxiv. 
Constitution  cl. 
Copper  cxUx. 
Coral  649. 

Cormorant  Fishing  396. 
Cormorant  Tail  308. 
Cranes  137. 
Cryptomeria  243. 
CunOs  cxiii. 
Custom-House  xxiv. 

Dagelet  Island  702. 
DaUcoku  ccviii. 
Daikon  xliv. 
DaimyS  cclxv. 
Dainichi-Nyorai    ccvi, 

240. 
Daira-botchi  clxxvi. 
Dairen  757. 
Daisen  541. 
Daishoji  547. 
^^^sck.'dSf^mng  ccxlvii. 


INDEX 


793 


Dan-no-ura  645. 
Danima  cxcix,  108. 
Date  Masamune  310. 
Dasaifu  654. 
Dengy5-Daishi  501. 
De8hiina663. 
Doban  442. 
Dogs  377. 
Dog  of  Fo  clxxvii. 
Dogo  638. 
Dragon  clxxix.  177. 
Dwarfing  clxxxviii. 
Dzuahi  37. 

Earthquakes  195. 
Ebisu  ccviii.    • 
Echigo  Province  83. 
Eitoho  731. 
Ejiri372. 
Kmma-5  cciii. 
Ena-san  385. 
En-no-Shokaku  239. 
Enoehima  34,  367. 
Enoura  65. 
Eta  333. 

EtchQ  Province  549. 
Exchange  xxi. 

Fireflies  552. 
Fish  21, 65. 146.507.549. 
Fishing  dv,  358. 
Flowers,  59.  86. 
Food  xxxii,  xlii. 
Formosa  761. 

Aborigines  773. 

Anping  789. 

Arisan  789. 

Bibliography  774. 

Botel  Tobago  Is.  766. 

By6ritsu  7gW. 

Climate  763. 

Daiddtei     (Twatutia) 
778. 

Fauna  767. 

Footbinding  773. 

Guard-Une769. 

Head-hunting  770. 

History  768.' 

Hokutd  784. 

Kagi788. 

Keelung  (Kiirun)  774. 

Lake  Candidius  787. 

Mt.  Morrison  788. 

Oolong  tea  778. 

Panama  hats  777. 

PankyS  785. 

Pescadores  765. 

Population  769. 

Shmchiku  786. 

Shoka  787. 

Taichu  786. 

Taihoku  (Taipeh)  776. 

Tainan  789. 

Takao  791. 

Tamsui  784. 


Fonnosa: 

Topography  764. 

Toyen  786. 
Fu-Daishi  ccix. 
Fud6  ccvi. 
Fugen  cciii,  220. 
Fu^i  River  44,  371.  393. 
Fuji-san  (yama;  mt.)  45. 
Fujisawa  36.  367. 
Fuji  Station  371. 
Fuiiwara  Clan  cclxiv. 
Fukaya  66. 
Fukiage  66. 
Fukuchiyama  539. 
Fukue  (Goto)  649. 
Fukui  547. 
Fukuoka  651. 
Fukushima  322. 
Fukuyama  638. 
Funatsu  42. 
Furniture  ccxlii. 
Furumachi  320. 
Fusan  694. 
Fushimi  550. 
Futagawa  374. 
Futami  605. 

Gampishi  65,  532. 
Garclen  Party  118,  120. 

188. 
Gedan  455. 
Geisha  clxi.  131. 
Genji  Monogatari  cclix. 
Genkai  Nada  651. 
Geography  cxxxvii. 
Geology  cxzxix. 
Geta  216. 
Gifu  396. 
Ginseng  320,  699. 
Goddess  of  Cereals  437. 
Godowns  lii. 
Gods  of  Good  Luck  ccviii 
Goldfish  dv.  584. 
Gongen.  280. 
Gdnki  46. 
Gorin-no-to  528. 
Gotemba  48.  369. 
Gotd  Islands  649. 
Gourds  94. 
Government  di. 
Guides  xxvi. 
Gumbai-uchiwa  60. 
Gwassan  324. 
Gydgi-bosatsu  219. 

Habutae  547. 
Hachiman  30.  510. 
Hachinohe  317. 
Hachioji  394. 
Hachird  Lagoon  326. 
Haiden  169. 
Hakata  651. 
Hakone  54.  62. 
Hakosaki  651. 
Hakuie66. 


Hakusan  547. 
Hamamatsu  374. 
Hamana  Ko  374. 
Hanamaki  315. 
Hanamichi  116. 
Hanare-yama  72. 
Haneda  109. 
Haniwa  550. 
Harakiri  clxx. 
Hara^ama  308. 
Harbin  757. 
Harima  Meguri  633. 
Haruna  85.  91.  92.  95. 
Hase-dera  (Nara)  591. 
Hashimoto  533. 
Hataori  326. 
Hayachine  316. 
Haya-gawa  58.  62. 
Hayama  37. 
Health  Ixxiii. 
Heian  Epoch  cclxiv. 
Hemp  315. 
Hibachi  xlix. 
Hidari  JingorO  259. 
Hiei-zan  499. 
Higashi  Ogawa  306. 
Higoshige  497. 
Hikone  399. 
Himegami-dake  317. 
Himefi  633. 
Hino  394. 
Hinoki  243. 

Hints  to  Travelers  Ixxvii. 
Hirado  649. 
Hiraisumi  315. 
Hirosaki  326. 
Hirose^gawa  308. 
Hiroshima  640. 
Historical  Sketch  cdxii. 
Hisen-ware  657. 
Hdden  633. 
Hodogaya  367. 
Hdei-san  47. 
Hdjd  Era  cclxviii. 
Hokdsan  385. 
HokkaidS  (Yezo)  327. 
Hokke-ShQ  cci. 
Hokkei-ji  (Nara)  578. 
Hokuroku-d6  545. 
Honden  169. 
Honen  Shdnin  417. 
Honolulu  xi. 
Horaiji  375. 
Horses  xc. 

H6ryQ-ji  (Nara)  584. 
Hoshakuji  320. 
Hdshu-no-tama  ccxii. 
Hotd  ccviii. 
Hotels  xxix. 
Houses  xlvii,  129. 
Hdzu-gawa  498.  535. 
Hunting  cii,  358. 

Ibuki-yama  506. 
Ice  Cave  43. 


794 


INDEX 


Ichinohe  317. 
lohinomij^a  395. 
Ichinoseki  314. 
Icho  Tree  471. 
leyasu  ccxxiii,  372,  375. 
Ihai  168. 

li  Naosuke  22,  307. 
Ikao  67,  85. 
Ikegami  108. 
Imaichi  243. 
Imari-ware  656. 
Inari  399,  437. 
Inasa  Bay  544. 
Inawashiro  321. 
Inland  Sea  cxliv. 
Innai  325.  ' 
Inns  xzix. 
Inro  165. 
Irises  120. 
Iriyama  Pass  73. 
IseQPO. 
Ishinden  600. 
Ishi-yama  507. 
Isobe  67. 
.  Ivory  ocxxxvii. 
Iwabuchi  371,  393. 
Iwakiri  311. 
Iwaki-san  326. 
Iwakuni  642. 
Iwanuma  308. 
Iwate-yama  316. 
Izumo-Imaichi  543. 
Izu  Peninsula  370. 

Jade  cxxii. 
Jakotsu-eawa  58. 
Japan  ccTxiii. 
Japanese  civ,  cclxii,  133 
Japan  Sea  81. 
Jie-Daishi  199. 
Jigen-Daishi  198,  287. 
Jikaku-Daishi  cci,  219. 
Jimmu-tenn5  cclxii,  591 
Jindai-boku  309. 
Jinrikisha  ixxxviii. 
Jizo  cciv. 
Jochd  445. 
Jodan  455. 
JQdo-Shinshu  cxcix. 
Joga-shima  40. 
Jujutsu  clxiv,  132. 

Kado  326. 
Kaempfer,  E.  665. 
Kago  xci. 
Kagoshima  676. 
Kaijo  753. 
Kakemono  ccxi. 
Kamakura  28. 
—  Epoch  cclxv. 
Kamata  108. 
Kameoka  535. 
Kameyama  599. 
Kamiide  45. 
Kaminoyama  324. 


Kamisuwa  390. 
Kamiya  518. 
Kami-yama  63. 
Kami  Yoshida  41. 
Kamuro  532. 
Kanagawa  23. 
Kanasawa  (Kaga)  548. 
Kanazawa  (Sagami)  27 
Kaneyeki  532. 
Kang-hoa  705. 
Kan5-san  241. 
Kano  Sohool  of  Painting 

ccxvii. 
Kanuma  243. 
Kanzaki  618. 
Karasaki  504. 
Karatsu  655. 
Kare-sansui  460. 
Karuizawa  65,  68. 
Kashinoki  190. 
Kashiwabara  80,  596. 
Kashiwazaki  82. 
Kasuga  no  miya  (Nara) 

556. 
Kataichi  640. 
Katase  34. 
Katashina-gawa  305. 
Kato  Kiyomasa  424, 673. 
Katsuura  241. 
Kawagoe  394. 
Kawaguchi  Lake  42. 
Kawasaki  107. 
Kechimyaku  79. 
Keicho-zan  320. 
Keman  442. 
Kengamine  45. 
Kema  Japonica  19,  415. 
Kichijoji  395. 
Kiga  57. 
Kinkazan  312. 
Kinkozan  Pottery  ccliv. 
Kinosaki  540. 
Kintoki-zan  58. 
Kirin  clxxviii. 
Kirishima  675. 
Kisarazu  241. 
Kishi-Bojin  ccix. 
Kiso-Fukushima  388. 
Kiso-kaido  388. 
Kiso  River  385,  395. 
Kitakami  River  314. 
Kitaura  306. 
Kites  117. 

Kiyomizu-Ware  cclvi. 
Kizuki  543. 
Kobe  (Hy6go)_.^l&. 
Kobo-Daishi  cxxvi,  511, 
Kobori  Enshu  415,  476. 
Kochi  638. 
Kodzu  Farm  73. 
Koenchi  221. 
Kofu  392. 

K6fuku-ji  (Nara)  569. 
Koganai  394. 
\KoRodaa2\. 


Koizawa  96. 
Kojiki  cclxiv. 
Kokura  Jet.  650. 
Komagatake    (Shinano) 

387. 
Kominato  241,  318. 
Komochi-yama  89. 
Kompira  637. 
Konashi  71. 
Konsel  Pass  304. 
Korea  693,  731. 

Agriculture  699. 

Characteristics  718. 

Climate  705. 

Diamond  Mt.  Monas- 
teries 750. 

Flag  726. 

Flora  700. 

Food  724. 

Geography  695. 

Health  706. 

History  708. 

Hunting  and  Fishing 
707. 

Pony  737. 

Language  725. 

Literature  726. 

Mines  702,  708,  755. 

Money  706. 

Provinces  701. 

Railway  System  727. 

River     System     704, 
755. 

Time  727. 

Women  722. 
Kdriyama     (Yamato) 

584. 
Kdriyama  Qlwashiro)  321. 
Koromo  River  315. 
Kose  Hot  Springs  70. 
Koshirazu  549. 
Kosha-kaido  394. 
Kotatsu  126. 
Kotohira  635. 
Kotsuke  68,  96. 
Koyaguchi  516. 
Koya-san  511. 
Kowakidani  57. 
K5zu  55,  56,  368. 
Kubota  307,  655. 
Kuchinotsu  670. 
Kudatama  209. 
Kugenuma  368. 
Kumagaya  66. 
—  Naozane  441. 
Kumamoto  672. 
Kun5zan  373. 
Kunsan  730. 
Kurakake-yama  63. 
Kure  640. 
Kurihama  39. 
Kurile  Islands  358. 
Kuroiso  321. 
Kurosawajiri  315. 
,Kuro-shiwo  cxlv. 


INDEX 


795 


Kurume  671. 
Kururi  241. 
Kuryu  Pass  305. 
Kusatsu  70,  75,  96,  99. 
Kutani  cclvii,  547. 
Kutsukake  72. 
Kuwana  599. 
Kwannon  ccv. 
Kwansei  cxlviii. 
Kwanto  cxliii,  6S. 
Kyokatabira  79. 
Kyoto  400.  499. 

Anrakuji  447. 

Arashi-yama  497. 

Awata  Palace  413. 

Big  BeU  430. 

Bndges  409. 

Butoku-den  478. 

Chion-in  416. 

Chishaku-in  433. 

Daibutsu  429. 

Daigo-ji  507. 

Daitoku-ji  486. 

Doshisha  479. 

Ear  Mound  430. 

Eikwan-dd  447. 

Festivals  403. 

Ginkaku-ji  444. 

Gion  no  Yashiro  421. 

Hachiman  Shrine  509. 

Heian  JingQ  478. 

Higashi  Hongwanji 
.463.     _ 

Higashi  Otani  422. 

History  410. 

Honen-in  447. 

Hotels  400. 

Imperial   University 
479. 

Kami-Gamo  479. 

Katsura  Palace  475. 

Kenkun-Jinsha  488. 

Kinkaku-ji  483. 

Kitano  Tenjin  481. 

Kiyomizu-dera  425. 

K6dai-ji  423. 

Kurodani  440. 

Maruyama  Park  421. 

Mikado's  Palace  450. 

Miy6shin-ji  492. 

Myoho-in  434. 

Mxiseum,  Art  430. 

— ,  Commercial  478. 

Nanzen-ji  448. 

Nijo  Castle  456. 

Nishi  Hongwanji  466. 

Nishi  Otani  428. 

Nursery  496. 

Nyakuo-ji  447. 

Omuro  Gosho  491. 

Public  Library  478. 

Saga-no-Shaka-dd  496. 

San  -  ju  -  san  -  gen  >-  dd 
434. 

Senyu-jl  437. 


Kyoto: 

Shimo-Gamo  479. 

Shinnyo-d5  444. 

Shogun-suka  477. 

Shops  402. 

Shugaku-in  480. 

Sparrow-House  439. 

Streets  408. 

Takao-san  491. 

T6fuku-ji  436. 

Toii  474. 

Toji-in  489. 

Topography  405. 

Wasure-gasa  418. 

Yasaka  Pagoda  425. 

Yoshida-jinja  444. 

Zoo  478. 
KyQshu  647. 

Lacquer  ccxliii,  164,  165, 

321. 
Landscape  Gardens 

clzxxvii. 
Language  cxziii. 
Laundry  liv. 
Lava  Stream  74. 
Leprosy  369,  370. 
Literature  cclviii. 
Lotus  ccxiii,  120,  511. 
Loochoo  Islands  648. 

Maiko  631. 
Mabechi  River  317. 
Maebashi  67,  87. 
Magatama  209. 
Maibara  398,  545. 
Makemono  cczi. 
Maki  Tree  190. 
Maizuru  533,  535. 
Manchuria  756. 
Maples  120. 
Maru  139. 
Marumero  104. 
Marunouchi  135,  153. 
Masanpo  729. 
Matsue  542. 
Matsuida  67,  94. 
Matsukawa  322. 
Matsumoto  389. 
Matsuri  cxcviii. 
Matsushima  311. 
Mausolea  clxxxi. 
Mayumi  72. 
Measures  xcviii. 
Meibutsu  541. 
Meiji-tenno  550.  ^ 
Messageries  Maritimes 

xvii. 
Metal  Work  ccxlvi. 
Mi  Chodai  460. 
Midono  386. 
Midzuame  xlvii,  316. 
Mihara  236. 
Miidera  504. 
Mikawa  Province  375. 


Mikawaohi  658. 
Milk  Ixxzv,  82. 
Minamoto  cclxiv,  645. 
Mines  cxlviii. 
Minobu  393. 
Mino  Park  631. 
Mio-no-Matsubara  372. 
Misaki  40. 
Mishima  370. 
Misumi  674. 
Mitake  392. 
Mistletoe  121. 
Mito  306. 
Miwa  591. 

Miyaii  (KyOshQ)  686. 
Miyajima  641. 
Miyagino  57. 
Miyako  Islands  649. 
Miyanoshita  54. 
Miyazaki  676. 
Miyazu  533,  637. 
Miyoda  76. 
Mizudokei  259. 
Mizusawa  315. 
Mogami  River  324. 
Mogi  669. 
Moji  650. 
Momo-yama  550. 
Money  xviii. 
Mongol  Invasion  652. 
Monju  cciii. 
Monsoons  Ixvi. 
Morioka  316. 
Motosu  Lake  44. 
Mountains  cxxxix,  398. 
Mugi  89. 
Mugiyu  89. 
Mukden  757. 
Mushiyokan  307. 
Mushroom  439. 
Mutsu  Province  315. 
MyS^-san  67,  94. 
My5jingatake  59. 
Myojin-yama  44. . 
Myokwaku-do  59. 
Mythology  ccxiv,  cclxii, 
375,  675. 

Nagahama  42,  506. 
Nagano  65,  78. 
Nagao  Pass  58. 
Nagaoka  83. 
Nagasaki  659. 
Nagashino  375. 
Nago^a  375. 
Naguidake  317. 
Naha  649. 
Nakamura  308. 
Nakanojd  97. 
Nakasendd  77,  384. 
Nakatsu  385. 
Nakayama  317.  630. 
Nakoso  307. 
Namu  Amida  Butsu 
cxcvi. 


796 


INDEX 


Nanao  548. 
Nanen-do  (Nara)  569 
Nansei  Islands  649. 
Nantai-zan  299. 
Naoetsu  65,  81. 
Nara  554. 

Diabutsu  560. 

Epoch  cclxiv. 

Excursions  578. 

Museum  571. 

Pagoda  570. 

Shosd-in  562. 

Temples  556-9,   569- 
70-78,580-2-4,591 
Nariakd  306. 
Narita  236. 
NarutS  240. 
Naruto  Whirlpool  632. 
Nasu  321. 
Nasuno  320. 
National  Flag  cliv. 
—  Hymn  civ. 
Natsui  River  322. 
Nesan  xxxiv. 
Netsuke  165. 
NQ.W8paper8  dvii. 
Nezame-no-toko  387. 
Nichiren  cci,  241. 
Nightingale  Floors  clxxx, 
Nigori  cxxviii. 
Nigwatsudd  (Nara)  559. 
Nihonbashi  145. 
Nihongi  cclxiv. 
Nihonmatsu  322. 
Niigata  65,  83,  321. 
Niitsu  83. 
Nikko  243. 

Climate  246. 

Daiya-gawa  246-49. 

Excursions  288. 

Flowers  247. 

Futamiya  297. 

Hachi-ishi  244. 

History  245. 

Iri-machi  244. 

Kegon  Fall  298. 

Kinu-gawa  246. 

Kirifuri-taki  289. 

Makkura-daki  289. 

Mausolea  258,  280. 

Mountains  246,  296, 
299. 

Nana  Fall  290. 

Nyoho-zan  244,  296. 

Red  Bridge  248. 

Ryuzu-no-taki  301. 

Senj6-ga-hara  301. 

Shobu-no-hama  301. 

Taro-zan  302. 

Temples  250,  289,  290 

Trout  Hatchery  301. 

Yu-no-taki  302. 
Nio  ccvii. 
Nippon    Yusen  Kaiaha 

xiv,  XV,  xvi,  139. 


Nirvana  437. 

Nishi  Lake  42. 

Nishinomiya  618. 

Niwazaka323.. 

Noheji  318. 

Nojiri  Lake  80. 

Nonai  318. 

North     German    Lloyd 

SS.  Co.  xiii,  XV. 
Noshi  459. 
Noshiro  326. 
Noto  548. 
Numasaki  318. 
Numata  96,  305. 
Numazu  370. 
Numerals  cxzxv. 
Nuttari  83. 

Oami241. 
Oarai  307. 
Obama  536,  669. 
Obu  375. 

Oda  Nobunaga  cclxxi. 
Odate  326. 
Ofuna  367. 
Ogaki  398. 
Ogara  318. 
Ogasawara-jima  105. 
Oginohama  313. 
Ogori  643. 
Ohito  370. 
Oigawa  373. 
on  cxlix,  83. 
Oirase  River  316. 
Oiso  368. 
Oita  687. 
Oiwake  325. 
Ojigoku  (Sagami)  57. 
Gkayama  634. 
Okazaki  375. 
Oki  Islands  541. 
Okinawa  649. 
Okitsu  672. 
Okkai  305. 
Omi  Province  506. 
Omika  307. 
Ominato  318. 
Omine  644. 

Omiya  45,  66,  320,  371. 
Omiyaguchi  371. 
Omori  109. 

Omura  (KyQshu)  659. 
Omuta  671. 
Onigawara  488. 
Onna-zaka  185. 
Onoda  Mines  307. 
Ono  Komachi  325. 
Onoko-yama  89. 
Onomichi  639. 
Ontake  388. 
Opium  782. 
Orenge-yama  549. 
Osaka    Shosen     Kaisha 
\_xiv,  139,  607. 


Oshu-Kaidd  320. 
Ota  307. 
Otodome  45. 
Otoko-zaka  185., 

8tome-tdge  57. 
t8u399. 
Otsuki  394. 
Otsutomo  318. 
Owari  376. 
Oya  77. 

Oyama  67,  320,  369. 
Oyashirazu  549. 
Ozu  679. 

Pacific    Mail    S.S.    Ca 

xiv. 

Pagodas  dxxziii. 
Painters  ccxxiv. 
Painting  ccxxiv. 
Passports  xxiv. 
Peach  118,  368. 
Pear  119. 

Pearls,  Culture,  etc.  cxix. 
Peninsula     &     Oriental 

Steam  Navigation  Co. 

xiii,  XV. 
Peony  119. 
Perry,  M.  C.  cdxxiv,  lOt 

39. 
Persimmon  397,  533. 
Pheasants  86. 
Phcenix  clxxviii. 
Photography  c. 
Phrases  cxxxiv. 
Ping  Yang  754. 
Plains  of  Heaven  27. 
Plan  of  Tour  Iv. 
Plum  Trees  118. 
Political  Divisions  cxli. 
Pook  Han  749. 
Porcelain  cclii,  658. 
Postage     Stamps    xciv, 

232. 

Post-offices  xcii,  132. 
Potato  648. 
Praying-Wheel  216. 
Provinces  cxli. 
Puttees  49. 
Pyrus  Japonica  59. 

Raikdji  82. 
Railways  Ixxix. 
Rakan  ccix. 
Raku-yaki  ccliii. 
Ramma  (panel)  468. 
Religions  clxxxix,  xxdv. 

ccxx. 
Restaurants  xli. 
Retinosporas  243. 
Revolving  Library  cdx. 
Rice  cv,  438. 
Rivef  System  cxUii. 
Rock-crystals  cxxii,  165. 
Rokkakuushi  316. 
Rokkosan  628. 


INDEX 


797 


R5maji  cxxvii. 
Ronin  odxv. 
Roearies  515. 
Ryobu-Shintd  ccxvi. 
RyOxan  731. 

Sado  Island  85. 
Saga  (Kyushu)  655. 
Sagami  Bay  368. 
Saghalien  361. 
Saidai-ji  (Nara)  580. 
Saigo  541. 

Saigo  Takamori  198. 
Saijdji  59. 
S^o  42. 
Sai-no-Kawara  cciv,  52, 

103. 
Saitozaki  651. 
Sakai  541,  617. 
Sakamoto  503. 
Sakata  324. 
Sakawa  River  368. 
Sake  cxi. 

Sakura  (cherry)  118. 
Sakura  Jet.  236. 
Sakurai  595. 
Sakurajima  678. 
Samurai  cclxv. 
Sandwich  Islands  xi. 
San  Francisco  xi. 
Sangwatsudo  (Nara)  559. 
Sanjd  83. 

San-jQ-roku-kasen  422. 
Sannohe  317. 
Sano  370. 
Sanrdshin  729. 
Saru-haahi  394. 
Sasago  393. 
Saaebo658. 
Satsuma  ccliv,  676. 
Sawara  240. 
Saxankwa  446. 
Sculptors  ccxli. 
Seasons  Ixvii. 
Seattle  xiv. 
Seaweed  xliv,  330. 
Sekigahara  398. 
Sekimoto  59,  307. 
3endai30S. 
^ngen  Sama  49. 
3eoul  (Keijo)  731. 

Big  BeU  742. 

Botanical  Garden  745. 

East  Palace  743. 

Imperial  Palace  747. 

Independence    Arch 
747. 

Marble  Pagoda  742. 

Musemn  745. 

North  Palace  740. 

Queen's  Tomb  746. 

White  Buddha  747. 

Zoo  745. 

rants  hi. 

bo-gawara  104. 


Seta  506. 

Seto  Potteries  383. 

Shakudo  272. 

Shakunage  304. 

Shiba  River  45. 

Shibaishi  691. 

Shibuichi  ccxlviii. 

Shibukawa  67,  87. 

Shibu-toge  104. 

Shide  516. 

Shikamachi  297. 

Shikoku  635. 

Shimabara  670. 

Shimekasari  117. 

Shimenawa  117. 

Shimiau  372. 

Shimoda  370. 

Shimonita  67. 

Shimonoseki  644. 

Shimosuwa  391. 

Shimo  Yoshida  42. 

Shinagawa  109,  186. 

Shinano-gawa  77,  83. 

Shinano  Province  68. 

ShingishQ  756.     * 

Shingon-shQ  cc. 

Shinjo  324. 

Shinonoi  78. 

Shinto  ccxiv. 

Shintd      Architecture 
clxxxi. 

Shintd  Shrines  ccxvii. 

Shin-zaka  185. 

Shiobara  320. 

Shiogama  311.  314. 

Shiojiri  389. 

Shioya  631. 

Shiraito  45. 

Shirakawa  321,  499. 

Shirako  600. 

Shirane-San  89. 104, 304. 

Shiriuchi  317. 

Shishimai83. 

Shitamachi  135. 

Shi-Tenn5  ccvii. 

Shiwokawa  321. 

Shizuoka  372. 

Shizuura  370. 

Sh5do  Island  635. 

Shodd-Shonin  248. 

Shogun  cclxv. 

Shsfi  40. 

Shops  cxii. 

Shotoku-taishi  587. 

ShQfQrei  730. 

Shumisen  78. 

Shumondake  82. 

Shuzenji  370. 

Siebold,  P.  F.  von  665. 

Silver  and  Gold-work 
ccxlviii. 

Singing  Frog  498. 
^Sdami  445. 
Soga  Brothers  62. 
Soga  Jot.,  241. 


Sdhei  433. 
Sdjiji  107. 
Sdma-yama  95. 
Sonobe  535. 
Springs  cxlvii. 
Stamps  (postage)  xciv. 
Stupa  ccx. 
Subashiri  51. 
Sudare  168. 

Sue-no-matsuyama  317. 
Suganuma  304. 
Sugaruga  681. 
Sugawara      Michizane 

654. 
Sugi243. 
Suigen  731. 
Suma  631. 
Sumiyoshi  616. 
Sumoto  632. 
Suribachi  199. 
Sushi  368. 
Sutra  (scroll)  cxcvi. 
Suwa  Lake  390. 
Suzukawa45,  371. 

Tachibana-hime  68. 

Tacoma'xiv. 

Tadotsu  635. 

Taga  Fort  333. 

Tagonoura  371. 

Taiden  730. 

Taira  ccbdv,  307,  322, 

645. 
Takada  81. 
Takahama  638. 
Takahara-yama  320. 
Takahira  305. 
Takamatsu  635. 
Takaoka  548. 
Takao-zan  394. 
Takaradzuka  620. 
Takasaki  67,  87.  320. 
Takatori-^aki  652. 
Takeda  (KyOshQ)  686. 
Takeda  Shingen  392. 
Takeo  656. 
Tallow  Tree  656. 
Tamagawa  108, 132, 394. 
Tambara  44. 
Tango  Province  535. 
Tanj6-ji  241. 
Tansan  Water  Ixxiv,  630. 
Tansu  309. 
Tar6b6  50. 
Taro  Plant  320. 
Tatami  xlviii. 
Tateyama  549. 
Tattooing  clxxii,  335. 
Tatsuishi  96.  98. 
Taya-no-ana  367. 
Tea  cvi,  118, 


798 


INDEX 


Temple      itera)      clzxii, 

ccix. 
Tendai-sha  oc. 
TeHgai  418. 
Tengu  59. 
Tenjin  Paaa  92. 
Tennin  clvzxii. 
Ten  Province  Pass  63. 
TenryQ  River  374,  337, 

391. 
Tetori-gawa  548. 
Thieves  clxiii. 
Thlaspi  arvense  60. 
Thunberg,  K.  P.  665. 
Thunder  Qod  ccvii. 
Tiffin  xzxi. 
Time  xcviii,  ozzzv. 
Tips  Uv. 
Toba  605. 
Tobacco  cv. 
Tochigi  243. 
Tochinoki  244. 
TochinokiHahinyu  680. 
Togo-ike  540. 
T6kaid5  367.  374. 
Tokimata  391. 
Toko  174. 

Tokon-do  (Nara)  570. 
Tokonoma  xlix,  460. 
Tokubetsu  69. 
Tokuyama  643. 
Tokugawa  cclxiv,  ccxxiii, 

171. 
TolnrS  109,  120. 

Aioibashi  229. 

Anjin-cho  147. 

Ankoku-den  184. 

Asakusa  215. 

Atago-yama  185. 

Banks  115,  137,  147.  . 

Bay  234. 

BeU  199. 

Benten  shrine  185. 

Canals  124. 

Cemetery,      Aoyama 
188. 

— ,  Z5shigaya  190. 

Churches     114,     140, 
148,  160. 

Climate  115. 

Daibutsu  200. 

DaijingQ  137. 

Dangozaka  197. 

Disposition    of    Time 
121. 

Edobashi  146. 

Eko-in  231. 

Embassies  115. 

Environs  234. 

Festivals  116. 

Rre-Walking  119. 

Fish  Warerooms  146 

Flower  Displays  116, 
230,  231. 

Foreign  Office  159 


T5ky5: 

Fukiage  151. 
Ginza  140. 
Gofukubashi  146. 
Gokakuji  189. 
Gov't  Depts.  136,  140, 

160,  233. 
Hearn,      Lafcadio 

190. 
Hei-jinja  187. 
Higashi    Hongwanji 

214. 
Hon  Kin  231. 
Hotels  110,  185. 
Jujutsu  School  197. 
Kameido  229. 
Koishikawa   Arsenal 

188 
Kudan  Hill  155. 
Legations  115. 
Library,  Hibiya  137. 
— ,  Imperial  201. 
Manseibashi  148. 
Meguro  234. 
Mita  185. 

Mortuary  Temples  21. 
Mukdjima  229. 
Museum,  Arms  157. 
— ,  Commercial  233. 
— ,  Imperial  201. 
— ,  Mineral  232. 
— ,  Naval  233. 
— ,  Okura  160. 
Newspapers  115,  139. 
Observatories  151, 194, 
Palace,  Imperial  149. 
— ,  Aoyama  188. 
— ,  Crown  Prince  154 
Park,  Fukagawa  229. 
— ,  Hibiya  136. 
— ,  Hoshigaoka  187. 
— ,  Shiba  168. 
— ,  Shimizudani  188. 
Pariiament  136. 
Post-Office  112. 
Race  Course  234. 
Railway  Stations  109, 

139,  148. 
Ryogoku  Bridge  228. 
School,  Art  201. 
— ,  Music  201. 
Shiba  Mausolea  169. 
Shinobazu  200. 
Shin-Ohashi  228. 
Shoheibashi  148. 
Shops  113,  147. 
Stock  Exchange   146. 
Streets  135. 
Sumidagawa  227. 
Sukiyabashi  140. 
Sunigadai  148. 
Theaters  116, 137, 232. 
ToshSgQ  200. 
Ttanapontine  228. 


Tol^o: 

University,  Imperial 
191. 

— ,  Keio  185. 

— ,  Waseda  197. 

Uyeno  197. 

Yasukuni-jinja  155. 

Yoshiwara  221. 

Zoo  201.       • 
Tomari  549. 
Tombs  clxxxi. 
Tomobe  306,  320. 
Tomogashima  632. 
Tomotsu  639. 
Tone  River  S9. 
T6-no-mine  596. 
Tonosawa  56. 
Torii  clxxxii. 
Torii*t6ge  388. 
Tortoise  clxxx,  660. 
Tosa  638. 
— ,  Fowls  207. 
— ,  School   of  Painting 

ccxxvi. 
Toshima-gawa  325. 
Toshita  679. 
T6sh6dai-ji  (Nara)  580. 
Tosu  655. 

Totomi  Province  374. 
Tottori  540. 
Tourist  Societies  Ixv. 
Towada  Lake  318. 
Toyama  (Etchu)  549. 
Toyohara  321. 
Toyohashi  374. 
Toyo  Kisen  Kaisha  xi, 

139. 
Toyosawa  315. 
Toyotomi     Hideyoshi 

cclxxii. 
Toys  131. 

Trampling-Boards  209. 
Tramways  Ixxxvii. 
Trans-Siberian  Rly.  757. 
Traveling  Expenses  xviiL 
Traveler's  Checks  xvi. 
Tripitaka  cxcv. 
Tsu  600. 
Tsubata  548. 
Tsuchi-gumo  66. 
Tsuchiura  306. 
Tsuchizaki  325. 
Tsugaru-Strait  319. 
Tsukuba  89. 
Tsunami  195. 
Tsuruga  546. 
Tsunimi  107. 
Tsuyama  635. 
Tuscarora  Deep  313. 
Typhoons  Ixviii. 

Ueki  672. 
Uesugi  323. 
Uji  551. 
lUjina  640. 


INDEX 


799 


Uma-gaeshi  51,  297. 
Unebi  595. 
Unkei  ccxii. 
Uno  635. 
Unzen  659,  669. 
UoBumi  Fall,  688. 
Uraga  39. 
Urakazni  659. 
Uramachi  318. 
Ushibuse  370. 
Usui-toge  67,  72. 
Uteunomiya  243,  320. 
Uyeda  77. 

Vegetable-wax  655. 
Vladivostok  546. 
Vocabulary  cxxx. 
Volcano  Is.  106. 
Vries  Island  235. 

Wada-toge  389. 
Wadayama  539. 
Wakamafsu    (Iwashiro) 

321. 
Wakamatsu     (KyQshu) 

651. 
Waka-no-ura  618. 
Wakayama  617. 
Walnuts  518. 
Waraji  49. 

Wares  of  Kyoto  ccliii. 
Washizuka-gawa  375. 
Water  Ixxiv. 
Weights  xcviii. 
What  to  Wear  Ixxv. 
Wind  God  ccvii. 
Wistaria  119,  230. 
Won-san  701. 
Wood-carving  ccxl. 
Wrestling  clxvii,  231. 

Tabekawa  671. 
Yaeyama  Islands  649. 
Yagasaki-yama  73. 
YagiS3. 

Y^ushi-ji  (Nara)  582. 
Yakushi-Nyorai  cciii. 
Yalu  River  756. 
Yamdda  600. 
Yama-dera  324. 
Yamagata  324. 


Yamaguchi  643. 
Yamakita  368. 
Yamanaka  Lake  42. 
Yamanaka  Spa  547. 
Yama-no-te  135. 
Yamashina  399. 
Yamashiro  547. 
Yamato  Dake  68. 
Yama-zakura  71. 
Yarigatake  92. 
Yashiki  125. 
Yatake  674. 
Yatsugatake  77. 
Yatsushiro  674. 
Yedamitsu  651. 
Yedo's  Flower  126. 
Yezo  (Hokkaido)  327. 

Abashiri  357. 

Ainu  (Aino)  332,  353. 

Asahigawa  357. 

Atosanobori  358. 

Atsunai  358. 

Climate  331. 

Ebisu  327,  332. 

Esan  356. 

Forests  330. 

Fukagawa  357. 

Hakodate  319,  345. 

Horobetsu  356. 

Hunting  328.  331. 

Ikeda  357. 

Ishikari-san  357. 

Iwamizawa  353. 

Kushiro  358. 

Kutsuchian  350. 

Magnolias  330. 

Matsumae  327. 

Meakan  357. 

Muroran  319, 349,356. 

Nemuro  358. 

Noboribetsu  354. 

Oiwake  353. 

Onuma  349. 

Oshima  Fuji  349. 

Oshiyamambe  350. 

Otaru  351. 

Rivers  329. 

Rumoi  357. 

Sahnon  329,  348. 

Sapporo  351. 

Shiraoi  353. 


Yezo  (Hokkaido) : 

Shiribeshi-yama  350. 

Sulphur  Mt.  358. 

Tanimae  354. 

Teshio  357. 

Tokachi-san  329,  357. 

Trappist  Monks  331. 

Volcano  Bay  356. 

Wakkanai  357. 

Yubari  353. 

Zenibako  351. 
Yodo-gawa  510. 
Yokaichiba  44,  240. 
Yokan  236. 
Yokkaichi  599. 
Yokobori  325. 
Yokogawa  67. 
Yokohama  3. 

Bluff,  18,  27. 

Excursions  23. 

History  10. 

Hommoku  23. 

Makuzu  Pottery  6. 

Mississippi  Bay  23. 

Negishi  23. 

Sugita  27. 

Tomioka  27. 
Yokosuka  37. 
Yonago  541. 
Yonezawa  323. 
Y6r6  398. 
Yoroi  540. 
Yose  394. 
Yoshigahira  83. 
Yoshimatsu  676. 
Yoshimimura  66. 
Yoshino  (Nara)  597. 
Yoshitsune  315. 
Yoshizuka  651. 
Yubuki  321. 
Yugashima  370. 
Yumoto  56,  301. 
Yura536.   . 
Yuzawa  325. 

ZenkSji  78. 
2ien-shti  cxciz. 
Ze-ze  506. 
Zojoji  168. 
Zuiganji  313. 
Zuifin  187. 


UNIV.   OF   MiCHlOAN, 


OCT  IV  IWA 


DC 


Advertising 
Section 


THE  ADVERTISEMENTS  on  the  foDowing  pages 
have  been  selected  with  scrupulous  care  from  among 
many,  and  with  a  definite  purpose. 

Elach  in  its  way  is  of  interest  and  value  to  travelers,  since 
none  has  been  accepted  that  does  not  have  a  direct  bearing 
on  the  tourist's  requirements. 

The  number  has  been  limited  intentionally ;  quality  rather 
than  quantity  having  been  the  aim.  World-travelers  will 
recognize  each  advertiser  as  of  high  class  and  unquestioned 
trustworthiness.  Many  advertisements  of  firms  which  we 
felt  could  not  be  recommended  without  reservation,  have 
been  rejected  —  and  will  always  be  excluded  firom  the 
Guidebook. 

We  believe  that  in  granting  to  a  few  of  the  best  Steam- 
ship and  Railway  G>mpanies,  Hotels,  and  Merchants, 
sufficient  space  to  enable  them  to  make  a  somewhat  ex- 
tended reference  to  their  lines,  specialties,  and  wares,  we 
are  doing  the  traveler  a  genuine  service ;  for  to  reach  an 
intelligent  decision  in  a  matter  of  importance,  the  stranger 
in  a  strange  land  often  wants  to  know  more  about  such 
than  the  mere  name,  a  quoted  price,  or  some  similar  stilted 
reference.  Advertising  is  the  naturabre^onse  to  such  a  wish. 

Since  we  have  traveled  more  than  once  over  every 
Steamship  and  Railway  Line  mentioned  herein ;  lodged  at 
every  hotel ;  and  had  dealings  with  every 
merchant  featured,  we  feel  justified  in 
recommending  them. 


oa 


Ql 


Quickest  Route 
Across  The  Pacific 


li  JAFAHBSB  n 

10  DAYS  TO  JAPAN  ISDATSTOOHU 

on  the  new,  fast,  luxurious 

EMPRESS  OF  RUSSIA 

and 
EMPRESS  OF  ASIA  (16,850  tons) 

operated  by 
CANADIAN  PACIFIC  RAILWAY  COMPANY 

Between  Vancouver,  Victoria,  Yokohama,  Kobe, 
Nagasaki,  Shanghai  and  Hong  K<«ig. 

Magnificent  Passenger  Accommodation 

Luxurious  Suites  —  Gynmasium,  Library,  Laundry,  DarkRooa 
for  amateur  photographers,  Music, ^Filipino  Band, — EieriiK 
Heaters,  Smoking  Room,  Verandah  Cafe,  etc. 


Gmtrii**"^''*"  Kl™>"^^'S'T^'«->-^-. 


ROUTES  OF  COMPANY'S  STEAMERS 


THE  SPLENDID  TRIPLE-SCREW.  TURBINJE  STEAMERS  OF  THE 

TOYO  KISEN  KAISHA 

tlie  largest,  finest  and  swiftest  on  the  Pacific  Ocean,  and  are  the 
9t  popular  with  experienced  travelers.  They  are  equipped  with  all 
luxuries  and  improvements  which  have  made  transatlantic  ships  so 
lous,  and  usually  they  are  a  delightful  revelation  to  comfort-loving 
pie.  The  special  appliances  that  reduce  the  motion  at  sea  to  a  min- 
un  are  particularly  appreciated  by  tourists  subject  to  sea-sickness. 
3road  promenade  decks;  large,  roomy,  electrically-cooled  cabins 
b  above  the  water-line  (thus  making  the  ventilation  perfect);  lux- 
>us  libraries  and  lounging-rooms;  magnificent  dining-saloons  in  the 
best  and  steadiest  part  of  the  ship;  excellent  and  bounteous  food 
pared  savorily  and  served  at  all  times;  well-equipped  laundries 
sre  the  passenger's  linen  is  washed  better,  quicker,  and  cheaper  than 
shore;  courteous  and  efficient  service  in  all  departments;  attractive 
srtainments  for  the  tourist's  enjoyment;  orchestra  at  meals,  etc.* 
but  a  few  of  the  comforts  known  to,  and  appreciated  by,  discern- 
and  experienced  travelers. 

BEGIN  YOUR  VOYAGE  TO  JAPAN  ON  A 

TOTO  KISEN  KAISHA 

mer  and  thus  increase  and  prolong  the  charm  of  a  trip  to  the  Land 
bhe  Rising  Sun.     The  ships  are  a  pleasing  blend  of  the  Ori^iil  ^aA 
Occident,  with  all  the  graces  ot  the  one  and  \3ie  cteaVAH^r<»TD&R>YVA 
the  other,  and  are  luxurioua  jfloating  hotels  that  Wk.  ^<&  ^xg^'^a^ 
with  the  wonderful  West, 


Travelers  to  Japan 

Should  include  in  their  itinerary  the  wonderful 
Mountain  and  Canon  Attractions  of  the  Rockies  and 
Sierras  and  compare  this  picture  of  "  Rugged  Grand- 
eur "  with  the  quieter  scenes  of  fair  Japan. 


WESTERM  PBCIHC. 


'*  The  Royal  Gorge*Feather  Uluer  Canon  Route 


»$ 


Between  Denver  and  San  Francisco  passes  through 
the  grandest  scenery  on  the  American  Continent  and 
operates  in  connection  with  the  palatial  steamships  of 

Toyo  Kisen  KaisKct 

{Oriental  Steamship  Company) 


Through  Pullman  Standard  and  Tourist  Sleepers 
daily  between  St.  Louis,  Kansas  City,  Chicago  and 
Omaha  and  San  Francisco  by  way  of  Denver,  Colo- 
rado Springs,  Pueblo  and  Salt  Lake  City  in  connec- 
tion with  Missouri  Pacific,  Burlington  and  Rock 
Island. 


Illustrated,  descriptive  literature  free  on  request  to 
any  Eastern  Representative  or: 

E.  L.  LOMAX  FRANK  A.  WADLEIGH 

AssL  Pass,  Traffic  Mgr,  Passenger  Traffic  Manager 

SAN  FRANCISCO,  Ckl..  \ilLNVER,  COLO. 


faroelous  Attractions 

along  the  line  of 

;en  from  the  Train,  requiring  no  additional  expense 
trips : 
DBNVCK  Ca  RIO  GKANDi: 
Denver  to  Salt  Lake  City  and  Ogden 
Main  Line 

Cafion  o(  the  Grand  River 
lo  Springs  Glenwood  Springs 

Peak  Grand  River  Valley 

Grand  Junction 
Gorge,  Grand  Cafion     Ruby  Canon 
e  Arkansas  Casde  Gate 

s  Canon  Soldier  Summit 

Massive  Utah  Lake 

see  Pass  Salt  Lake  City 

i^ver  Canon  Ogden 

Marshall  Pass  Line 

iD  Pass  Black  Cafion  of  the  Gunni- 

on  River  son 

Uncompahgre  Valley 

WESTERN  PACIFIC 

Salt  Lake  City  to  San  Francisco 

^t  Lake  Marysville 

ing  Salt  Beds  Sacramento 

fountain  Stockton 

Canon  of  the  San  Joaquin  Valley 

her  River  Oakland 

:  San  Francisco  Bay 

)redges  San  Francisco 


FLEET  tl^J  TONNAGE  ' 

icx)  Vessels  g^^Sa     350,000  tons  Gross 

Nippon  Yusen  KaishAj 

{Japan  Mail  Steamship  Co.) 
HEAD  OFFICE: 

T0KYO,  JAPAN 
Telegraphic  Address  :*  "  MORIORA '' 

LONDON  OFFICE: 

4  Lloyds  Avenue » 

LONDON,  E.  C. 

Telegraphic  Address:  <'YUSENKAI" 

Regular  Services  of 
Imperial  Japanese  Mail  Steamship  Lines 

European  Line Fortnightly 

American  Line Fortnightly 

Australian  Line Four- Weekly 

Bombay  Line Fortnightly 

Calcutta  Line Fortnightly 

Yokohama-Shanghai  Line Twice  a  Week 

Kobe-Vladivostock  Line Three- Weekly 

Kobe-North  China  (Direct  Service)  Line  . .  Every  6  Days 
Yokohama-North  China  Line Thrice  Five  Weeks 


Kobe-Keelung  Line Four  Times  a  Monii 

Kobe-Otaru  Line Thrice  a  Week 

Yokohama-Formosa  Line Four  Times  a  Monii 

Yokohama- BoNiN  Islands  (Via  Hachijo  Is.) 

Line Monthly 

Yokohama-Bonin  Islands  Line  (Direct) Six  Times  a  Year 

AWOMORI-MURORAN  LiNE E VERY  DaY 

Hakodate- Karafuto  Line. Five  Times  a  MonH 

Hakodate- Yetorofu  Line Three  Times  a  M(«fl* ; 

Hakodate- Abashiri  Line Three  Times  a  MoW 

Otaru-Wakkai^ai  Line Five  Times  a  Mokm 

Otaru-Abashiri  Line Seven  Times  a  Mob^j 

Branches  and  Agencies  in  PrincttaX  Pot\^  ^i  \\i*N»A< 


The  hundred  or  more  big  ships  of  the  NIPPON  YUSEN  ' 
KAISHA  FLEET  are  speedy,  commodious,  safe,  and 
moderij  to  the  smallest  detail.  The  cabins  are  large  and 
perfectly  appointed.  The  food  is  proverbially  excellent. 
The  special  laundry  facilities  are  of  great  convenience  to 
passengers  who  wish  to  travel  with  a  minimum  of  luggage. 
If  you  will  specify  N.Y.K.  ships  when  you  travel,  or  when 
you  ship  curios  or  other  merchandize^  you  will  be  sure  of 
getting  the  lowest  rates  and  the  most  trustworthy  service. 

The  EUROPEAN  SERVICE  is  justly  famous  and  is 
inmieasurably  superior  to  that  of  many  competing  lines. 
The  splendid  large,  new  ships  that  ply  between  Japan  and 
England  vik  ports  are  equipped  with  every  refinement 
known  to  marine  science,  and  they  rank  among  the  most 
palatial  and  comfortable  afloat.  This  service,  coupled  with 
that  between  Japan  and  Seattle,  and  the  one  mentioned 
below,  is  deservedly  popular  with  foreigners. 

The  AUSTRALIAN  SERVICE  from  Yokohama  vik 
Kobe,  Nagasaki,  Hongkong,  Manila,  Thursday  Is- 
land, Townsville,  Brisbane,  and  Sydney  to  Melbourne 

is  maintained  by  fine  new  ships  built  especially  for  travel 
in  equatorial  latitudes,  with  electrically-cooled  cabins  and 
a  host  of  conveniences  not  to  be  found  on  other  ships, 

ROUND-THE-WORLD-TOURS  at  prices  ranging 
from  $525  (U.  S.  money)  upward,  and  with  tickets  carrying 
stop-over  privileges  and  valid  for  2  years,  are  conducted  on 
our  own  ships  and  in  connection  with  those  of  the  chief  lines  of 
the  world,  and  are  usually  the  choice  of  the  traveling  public. 

HANDBOOKS  OF  INFORMATION  relating  to  all 
our  varied  lines  may  be  had  free  on  appVicaXAOiv  \.o  ^xs^j  A 
the  N.Y.K.  agents  throughout  the  world. 


*  The  North  German  Lloyd's 

Traveler's  Checks 


Are  gcxxl  all  over  the  world,  and  they  are  unequivocally  the  best,  safest, 
and  most  convenient  way  of  carrying  funds  needed  for  a  journey.  Hiey 
are  issued  in  denominations  of  $10,  $20,  $50,  $100  and  $200,  and  when 
properly  countersigned  are  payable  in  the  money  of  whatever  country  tbe 
traveler  finds  himself.  The  exact  equivalent  of  the  face  value  of  eick 
check  is  stamped  in  the  currency  of  Great  Britain,  France,  Getaasxj, 
Belgium,  Switzerland,  Italy,  Norway,  Sweden,  Denmark,  Hoflani 
Austria-Hungary  and  Russia,  and  in  other  countries  payments  are  made 
at  the  current  rate  of  exchange. 

Not  only  are  the  checks  redeemable  on  the  North  Grerman  Lloyd  shipii 
and  at  the  company's  numerous  agencies  throughout  the  world,  they  abo 
are  accepted  by  banks,  hotels,  railways,  shopkeepers,  etc.  They  are  p•^ 
ticularly  useful  in  the  Far  East,  where  numerous  Bank  Holidays  oAea 
interfere  seriously  with  the  traveler's  plans.  By  being  able  to  cash  tk 
checks  at  hotels  and  the  like,  one  is  often  saved  hours,  and  even  dayi. 
waiting  for  banks  to  open.  In  remote  towns  where  the  customary  banb 
for  the  cashing  of  letters  of  credit,  ordinary  drafts,  etc.,  do  not  exist,  the 
Norddeutscher  Lloyd  Checks  will  be  found  to  be  cashable  in  various 
places.  Banks  often  require  identification  when  travelers  present  ordinary 
drafts  or  their  personal  checks,  and  in  ports  where  ships  touch  once  a  week 
or  a  fortnight  the  delay  caused  thereby  may  mean  considerable  in  kit 
time  and  hotel  bills. 

The  North  German  Lloyd  Checks  are  unreservedly  recommended  oa 
the  score  of  safety,  convenience  and  economy.  Special  precautions  haw 
been  taken  against  forgery,  and  the  system  of  cashing  the  checks  is  siiii|ifi> 
fied  by  the  addition  of  thousands  of  names  of  persons  throughout  the 
world  who  will  accept  them  as  ready  money. 

For  additional  information  address 

OELRICHS  &  CO.,  General  Agents  j 

5  Broadway  (Bowling  Green  Offices)  NEW  YOBI 

or  THE  NOBI>\5^\i'^^C5S^^  VLOYD 

No.  W.XoVnAwskA,  ^KSh5\ 


The  North  German  Lloyd's 

Imperial  Mail  Steamers  to  Emx>pe,  Eastern  Asia  and  Australia  are  the 
acme  of  Comfort*  Luxury  and  Safety,  and  are  always  the  choice  of  experi- 
enced travelers. 

AU  of  the  Twin-Screw  Express  and  Passenger  Steamships  of  the  North 
Oerman  U/oyd  are  either  entirely  new  or  of  recent  construction.  They 
embody  the  latest  improvements  and  safeguards  that  the  modem  science 
of  shipbuilding  has  devised,  such  as  watertight  bulkheads,  forming  many 
compartments  in  the  steamers'  hulls;  full  complements  of  lifeboats,  col- 
lapsible boats  and  rafts,  with  the  latest  devices  for  lowering;  bilge  keeb, 
insuring  a  large  degree  of  steadiness  in  a  seaway,  and  a  balance  system 
in  the  construction  of  the  engine  which  greatly  reduces  the  vibration  and 
movement  in  the  body  of  the  vessel.  The  other  general  features  of  these 
i^odem  steamships  are  extensive  promenade  decks,  fine  staterooms  and 
good  ventilation.  All  steamers  are  equipped  with  wireless  telegraphy, 
submarine  signals  and  every  possible  safeguard.  The  extensive  Libraries 
contain  the  best  books  in  the  English,  German,  and  French  languages, 
and  the  food  and  service  are  faultless. 

The  Company's  Steamships  are  unexcelled,  and  for  more  than  half  a 
century  the  services  of  the  North  German  Lloyd  have  been  the  recognized 
and  unapproached  standard  of  the  maritime  world. 


NORTH  GERMAN  LLOYD 
INDEPENDENT  • 

Around  the  World  Tours 

carry  the  traveler  quickly  and  safely  to  any  part  of  the  world  and  back, 
and  range  in  cost  from  $625.85  and  up.  Our  tours  are  subject  to  whatso- 
ever alteration  or  addition  the  tourist  may  suggest,  as  the  Company's 
wesnices  and  connections  encircle  the  globe  and  reach  the  principal  ports 
of  every  country. 

Our  extensive  literature  contains  many  valuable  hints  to  travelers,  and 
is  s«it  free  on  application,  along  with  rate-sheets,  sailing-lists,  and  beauti- 
fully illustrated  descriptive  booklets. 

OELRICHS  &  CO.,  General  Agents 

5  Broadway,  New  York  City 

H.  AHRENS  &  CO.,  NACHF.,  General  Agents  for  Japan 
Yokohama.''No.  29.       Kobe,  No.  10.       Naft»»ak\«\Vi«'&\uv\ 

HEAD  OFFICE:  NORDDEUTSCHEB.  \A-OXJ> 

BREMEN 


Osaka  Shosen  Kaisha,  Lti 


REGULAR  MAIL  AND  PASSENGER   SERVICES 

a-Hongkong-Tacoma  Line,  viS  Japan  and  China  ports.    PartnigAlIy. 


BO,  Milws 


&  Puget  Sound  K-jr 


_..  „    .     _ with  Chici 

Tsutuga-Vladivostock  Line.     tVtii/y 

Connecting  at  Vladivostock  with  the  Trans-Siberian  Rail 
Osaka-Kobe-Moji-Dairen  Line.     Stmi-  Wietly. 

Connecting  at  Dalien  with  the  South  Manchuriau  Rail 
Osaka-Kobe-Moii-Tientsin  Line,    f-timcs  a  month. 
Kobe-Maji-Keelung  Line.    4-time3  a  month. 

CD»necting  at  Keelung  with  Formosan  Cover 
Yohohama-Taliao  Line,  viS  ports.    S-limes  a  month. 
Formosa  Coasting  Lines,    q-limti  a  moHtk, 
^saka-Kobe-Jinsen  Line,  vi3  parts.     &mi-Weekly. 


\%  Rail' 


onth. 


Osaka-Kobe-Seishin  Line,  viS  ports.     Wiekly 
Nagasaki- 1  in  sen-Dairen  Line,  via  ports,    f-times  a  month. 
Otani-Vladivostock  Line,  via  ports,    s-times  a  monli. 
Otaiu-Karafuto  Line,  vil  ports,    j-limes  a  month. 
Canton-Hongkong-Swatow-Amoy-Anping-'l'altao-Line,    Fortn  ightly. 
Hongkong-Swatow-Amoy-Foochow  Line.     Fortnightly. 
Hongkong-Swalow-Anioy-TamsuiLine.     Weekly. 
Daiien-Tienlsin-Shanghai-Foochow-Keelung-Takao  Une.    i-timc^  a  n 


Daily  Services  are  operated  in  o 
reaching  all  important  coast  poi 
world-famed  "  Inland  Sea  of  jaf 

Tliroagli  Rail  and  Steamship  Tickets 

are  sold  at  and  to  the  impoitont  stations  of  the  Imperial  Japanese  GoTemn 
Rai'lirays,  Korea  and  Fotmosati  Ga■^e^\n\en^.^■i\\■H■i•!5., South  Manehuriaa  8 
way,  Chinese  Eastern  RaWwav,  ai\d ^m^'«il 'i.a'^sau'iwAt'ft.-iJ^-Bi.-,^. 

For  particulan  apply  to  Main  umw.  usu'*  a  -^ 


HELM  BROS.,  Limited 


Established  1819 


STEVEDORES 

LANDING,  SHIPPING,  FORWARDING 

AND  EXPRESS  AGENTS 

CUSTOMS  BROKERS 

We  assemble,  store,  pack,  and  ship  curios,  luggage,  etc.,  for  tour- 
ists, attend  to  the  custom-house  formalities,  insuring,  etc. 

We  can  save  you  time,  trouble,  and  money. 

We  employ  only  expert  packers,  and  our   shipping-clerks  know 
the  best,  cheapest,  and  safest  shipping  routes. 

FORWARDING  AGENTS   FOR   THE  NORTH  GERMAN 

LLOYD   STEAMSHIP  CO. 

Turn  your  trunks  or  curios  over  to  us  and  we  will  guard  them  and 
deliver  them  safely  to  you  in  any  part  of  the  world. 

We  have  trustworthy  agents  everywhere. 

Small  shipments  accorded  the  same  intelligent  care  as  big  ones. 

Our  service  is  prompt  and  safe ;  our  charges  reasonable,  and  our 
reputation  of  the  best. 

YOKOHAMA  OFFICE  T5KY0  BRANCH 

No.  43,  Settlement  Nihonbashi,  Koami-cho,  1  Chome 

Cable  Address :  "  Helm,  Yokohama  "  Tel.  No.  258 1,  Naniwa 

Telephone :  Nos.  524,  3159 

KOBE  BRANCH  OSAKA  BRANCH 

No.  14,  Naniwa  Machi  No.  178,  Tomljima-cho,  Kitaku 

Tel.  No.  3489  Tel.  No.  2554,  Nishi 

SHIMONOSEKl  BRANCH  MOJl  BRANCH 

No.  19,  Kwannonzaki-cho  Sotohama-cho 

Tel.  No.  551  Tel.  No.  212 


IMPERIAL  60VERNMENT  RAILWAYS 

OF  JAPAN 


5,000    MILES 
REACHING    EVERY    PART   OF   THE    EMPIRE 

THROUGH    THE 
MOST    BEAUTIFUL    AND     DIVERSIFIED    SCENERY 


FREQUENT  EXPRESS    &  THROUGH  TRAIN 

SERVICES  Shimbashi  (Tokyo) — Kobe — Shimonofidd, 
Ueno  (Tokyo) — Aomori,  Moji — Nagasaki  &  Kagoshima, 
Hakodate — Asahigawa — Kushiro,  etc. 

English  Speaking  Conductors 

Dining  &  Sleeping  Cars 

REDUCED  RATES  FOR  TOURISTS,  dngly  or  in 
parties.    Tourists*  Special  Coupon-Books 

PRIVATE  CARS  for  hire 

SPECIAL  ARRANGEMENTS  with  principal  steamship 
companies 

THROUGH  BOOKINGS  to  &  from  Formosa,  Chosen 
(Korea),  Manchuria,  China  &  Europe 

STEAMER  SERVICES  between  Shimonoseki  &  Fusan, 
Aomori  &  Hakodate,  etc. 

''SANYO  HOTEL^atShimonoseki  under  direct managemeOt 

EFFICIENT  LUGGAGE  &  PARCEL  SERVICE 

STOP-OVERS  allowed  at  tourists'  points  &  principal  cities 

TICKET  AGENTS  International  Sleeping  Car  Co., Thomas 
Cook  &  Son,  etc. 

For  particulars  please  apply  to  the 
TRAFFIC    DEPARTMENT, 

IWlPER\^\.  O^OME^H^eNT   RAILWAYS, 


THE  KOREAN  RAILWAYS 

are  under  the  careful  management  of  the  Railway  Bureau  of 
the  Government-General  of  Chosen  (Korea),  and  connect  all 
the  chief  cities  and  towns  in  the  Peninsula. 

The  Main  Line,  from  Fusan,  on  the  Korea  Channel,  to 
Antung,  on  the  Yalu  River,  in  Manchuria,  is  an  important 
link  in  the ,  round-the-world  route  vi&  Siberia,  and  is  the 
shortest  overland  route  to  Europe. 

Luxurious  Pullman  Trains  carrying  sleeping  and  dining  cars 
(excellent  food  at  moderate  prices),  and  equipped  with  all  the 
refinements  of  the  splendid  fast  trains  of  America,  are  fea- 
tures of  the  line.  Every  known  convenience  compatible  with 
safety  is  offered  to  travelers  over  the  Korean  Government 
Railways. 

The  Company's  magnificent  station  hotels  at  Fusan  and 
Shingishii  are  furnished  commodiously  in  foreign  style  and 
are  under  the  personal  and  vigilant  supervision  of  men  skilled 
in  the  management  of  popular  and  successful  American  and 
European  hotels.  EngUsh  is  spoken  by  railway  and  hotel 
employees. 

Korea  is  one  of  the  quaintest  of  the  yet  unspoiled  countries 
of  the  Far  East,  and  it  should  be  visited  by  every  lover  of  the 
unique  and  pictiuresque.  Its  matchless  climate,  its  two-thou- 
sand-year-old  civilization  (quite  different  from  every  other), 
and  its  unexcelled  hunting  (huge  striped  tigers,  bears,  and  a 
host  of  smaller  fur-bearing  and  feathered  game)  render  it 
peculiarly  attractive  to  foreigners.  Its  unexplored  mineral 
wealth  is  just  now  attracting  the  attention  of  miners  every- 
where. Its  good  hotels  enable  tourists  to  enjoy  Korea  at  a 
moderate  outlay. 

« 

The  Railway  Bureau  issues  free  booklets,  handsomely  il- 
histrated  and  with  maps,  descriptive  of  Korea  and  its  progress 
and  resources,  and  will  gladly  send  them  for  the  asking.    Ad- 
dress: The  Railway  Bureau  of  the  Government-General  of 
:  ChoseUi  Ryuzan,  Seoul,  Korea. 

\.  Ticket  Agents:   The  Imperial  Govetnmeut  'BLaSBwvi^  ^'^ 
A|W0/  2209-  Cook  &  Sons,  etc. 


SOUTH  MANCHURIA  RAILWAY 


Shortest,  QuicKest  and  Cheapest  Route  between 
The  Far  East  and  Europe  viA  Dairen 

THRICE-MTECKI^Y  EXPRX^SS  TRAINS 

Composed  of  excellently  equipped  SLEEPING,  DINING,  and  ist  CLASS 
CARS,  are  operated  between  DAIREN  and  CHANGCHUN  m  connection  frith 
the  TRANS-SIBERIAN  TRAINS  and  SHANGHAI  MAIL  STEAMERS. 

CONNECTIONS  AT  MUKDEN 

These  Express  Trains  connect  at  MUKDEN  with  the  PEKING-MUKDEN 
RAILWAY  running  via  TIENTSIN,  the  MUKDEN-ANTUNG  "LINE,  and 
with  the  CHOSEN  (KOREAN)  RAILWAY,  thus  bringing  London  and  Takyf 
one  and  a  quarter  days  nearer. 

OTHER  STEAMCR  CONNECTIONS 

AT  DAIREN 

Regular  Steamship  Services  are  maintained  between  DAIREN  and  MOJI, 
KOBE,  CHEMULPO,  TIENTSIN,  CHEFOO,  TSINGTAO,  and  other  ports 
in  Japan  and  China. 

RAII^MTAY  HOTEI^S 

YAM  A  TO  HOTELS  at  DAIREN,  PORT  ARTHUR,  MUKDEN,  FU- 
SHUN,  and  CHANGCHUN,  all  managed  by  the  Company  and  furnished  'u 
European  style,  provide  comfortable  accommodation. 

TICKET  AGCNTS  IN  X^UROPB  AND  THE 

FAR  EAST 

The  INTERNATIONAL  SLEEPING  CAR  and  EXPRESS  TRAINS  CO; 
the  NIPPON  YUSEN  KAISHA,  SHANGHAI;  Messrs.  THOS.  COOKffli 
SON ;  and  the  REISEBUREAU  der  HAMBURG  AMERIKA  LINE. 

From  DAIREN  (Time  occnpied) 

To  TOKYO  OR  YOKOHAMA         3*  Days 

"    MOJI  or  SHIMONOSEKI a       *^ 

"    CHANGCHUN       14I  Hoan 

"    HARBIN       97 

"   ST.  PETERSBURG  (viX  VIATKA) 10    Days 

"    BERLIN        II        •' 

••    PARIS  la       " 

"    LONDON IS*      •• 

SOUTH  MANCHURUl  RAILWAY  CO.,  DAIREN,  MANCHDRU 

T«L  Aii. :  "MAKinSU"  OA«»x  K.VC  Sik  Ei.  A  L  ft m^ 


IMPERIAL  TAIWAN  (Formosan)  RAILWAYS 


TRUNK  RAILWAY  LINE  (Trans-FormosanRaUway) 

The  main  thoroughfare  between  the  two  important  open  ports,  Keelung 
in  the  north,  and  Takaw  in  the  south,  reaching  all  the  busiest  cities  and  towns 
in  the  Island,  such  as  Taipeh,  Shinchiku,  Taichu,  Shoka,  Kagi,  Tainan, 
etc    Through  day  and  nif^t  trains.     Butfet  service.    Good  food. 

BRANCH  RAILWAY  LINES:  — 

TAMSUI  LINE  —  ForTamsui,  a  flourishing  open  port  with  charming 

views  in  the  vicinity,  13  m.  from  Taipdi  junction. 

Hokuto,  a  station  on  this  line,  is  noted  for  its  hot  sulphur  springs  and  its 

beautiful  gardens.    Lovely  flowers  throughout  the  year. 
AKO  LINE — For  Ako,  a  local  business  centre  situated  in  the  sugar-cane 

district,  II  m.  from  Takaw  junction. 

REGULAR  STEAMSHIP  SERVICES:— 

Keelung'Kohe  line  via  Moji  ....  Eight  times  a  month 

^akaW'Shangbai  line thrice  a  month 

^akaW'Canton  line Entice  a  month 

^amsui'Hongkpng  line Four  times  a  month 

THE  TAIWAN  RAILWAY  HOTEL     • 

(under  the  control  of  the  Railway  Department)  is  the  only  Brat 
daM  hotel  in  European  style  in  Formosa.     Up-to-date  accommodations. 
^  Eicellent  cuisine.    Charges  moderate.    Rates  from  ¥6.  to  ^15.  per  da^ 
fneluding  meals. 

Cable  Address :  **  Hotel  Taihoku/'  Taipeh.  Code  A.B.  C.  5th  Edition. 

Telephone  Nos.  556-563 

LIGHT  RAILWAYS  owned  and  operated  by  the  Sugar  ReBmng  Cos. 
connect  with  the  Government  lines,  and  afford  local  transportation  facil- 
ities (linking  up  the  refineries  and  smaller  towns  in  the  neighborhood). 

For  Infonnation  pertainins  to  Formosa,  its  people,  and  its  products,  address : 

Department  of  Imperial  Taiwan  R]dSSL\9^% 

Taipeh,  PorttiowL 

CtiA^iX/reu.'  "TETSU*DO  "  TELEPHONE  Nw.  97 -A  32 


Qrand  Sun  Conrl.  P.Uce  Hotel. 
IB    PALAOE    HOTEL   pci^scnia    the    travElrr    Ihc 

lei  in  |]iB"v.orSd.  ThB*°entral''mtHy  is'lSo  greBi"8ur"cQun 
which  la  Bhown  In  the  enErsving  above.  Thli  Fourl  ii 
alEhl7-flTe  feet  wide  by  ona  hiindr«a  and  twenty  feet  long. 
All  public  roami  auch  aa  restaurantB.  grills,  curridora.  d7- 
ricB,  nowB  and  Bower  itandi,  telephone  snd  telegraph  ofricc- 
Inroi-malion    bureau,    banquet   and   reception    rootdB,    ladle 


The  Palace  IlDlel  is  operated  on  the  European  plan  only 

Raoma  wilhnnl  bath,  per  day,  f2.0n,  J2.a0  and  ».00  lal 
1  person;   W.50.  |4,(Hl  fTiMt  (nr  2  people. 

RooiDB  with  bath,  per  day.  $3.00.  f-iM.  fi.m,  fn.OO,  fH.OT. 
tor    1     peTBon,     SfT.OU,    IQ.UO.    tT.OII,     $8.nu.    SD.OO,     flO.OO 


Bedi 


,   parlor  and   bath,   Iwo  p 
.00,  »IB.OO.  I2II.00. 

day.  Irom  flH.OO  upwards 


per  day,,  (10.00, 
'   three    pecaona 


PALACE  HOTEL  COMPANY 


diini|||iiiMi|||iiiiii|||ii<>ii|||MiMi|||ii"ii|||iiHii|||iniii|||iiiiii|||iMiii|||iiHii||||iiiii|||u^ 
^--^^iiililiinnliliiiiiillliiiiiillliiiiiillliiiuilllibiiillhiiiiillliiiiiillliiiiiilm 

□  THE    GRAND    HOTEL  □ 

H                          YOKOHAMA  H 

I  1     Telegraphic  address:                        H.  E.  Manwaring  I  J 

f~%              "Grand**                                        Manager  f^ 

|-4     The  Hotel  with  a  World-Wide  Reputation  N 

[  I        Finest  location  in  Yokohama.    On  the  Bund,  over-  |  J 

r^     looking  Tokyo  Bay.    Ideal  Situation.    Omnibus  meets  rl 

|_J     all  express  trains.    Power  Latmch  and  English-speak-  LJ 

I  J     ^S  porter  meet  all  incoming  ships  and  relieve  the  I  I 

i^     passenger  of  all  trouble  and  delay  at  the  custom-house,  fi 


s    S 


1  Accommodations  for  500  guests.      Spacious  Ball 

^  Rooms.    Beautiful  Dining  Rooms.    Reception  Rooms.  M 

J  Orchestra  at  Meals.    Dances  and  Special  Entertain-  U 

1  ments  for  Guests.    Matchless  views.  f  1 


s    s 


I  1  Notable  for  the  beauty  of  its  location,  the  attractive- 
i-i  ness  of  its  surroundings,  the  perfection  of  its  system,  fi 
LJ  and  for  its  wholesome  and  delicious  food.    The  latter  LJ 

II  is  prepared  with  scrupulous  attention  to  cleanliness.  |  1 
rt  Pure  drinking  water.  Private  Garage.  Livery,  fi 
LJ  Laundry.  kJ 

l-J  Rooms  single  or  en  suite,  with  or  without  baths.  M 

I  j  Moderate  Rates.    American  Plan.  tj 

L  J  Single  Rooms  from  ¥7  to  ¥12  per  day  ($3.50  to  $6  LJ 

I   I  American  money).    Double  Rooms,  ¥14  to  ¥18.    With  fl 

|-^  bath  attached,  ¥18  for  i  person;  ¥22  for  2  persons.  M 

L_J  Suites  comprising  bedroom,  parlor  and^private  bath,  |J 

I   I  ¥18  to  ¥22  per  day  for  i  person,  and  ¥22  to  ¥25  per  |  1 

f~^  day  for  2  persons.     ¥5  per  day  extra  for  each  addi-  1^ 

i  i  tional  person  occup3ring  a  suite.    A  discotmt  of  10  per  Li 

I  I  cent  on  all  the  above  prices  for  a  stay  of  30  days  or  more.  |  J 

I  J  Numerous  desirable  rooms  and  suites  at  modest  M 

F^  rates  for  a  long  stay.                                               *  f  1 

j^  Afternoon  tea  served  free  to  guests.    The  hotel  con-  f  | 

f-i  tains  many  refinements  not   mentioned  above,  but  f4 

k  I  there  are  no  extra  charges.  LJ 

J-ip/Mam|iiiMi|||iiuumuiM\m\\>n\\mi"ii\^liiHii|^lM'Mi|||MMu  |||ii-«ii|||iiHii|i|ii'Mi|||ii"iM|i|ii'Mi|i|iPni|miiMi|niwie^ 

fiiiill;iliiiiillliiiiUllliii.ullliiM\\\\\\\u«\\\Uu\\\\Wn\\\\\v\^^^^^^ 


i«|||H>itl||||MM|||||inii|||4iiin||piiii|||||iM|||||iiii||)||irii|||||iiii|||||iiH|||||iiii||^  |||||ini||||iM||||||iii|||||||ii||||||i.ii|||||itii|||||iiii|||||iMi^- 

•^ItoaillilUillllllliillflllliillltlliilllillliiilllilliillllllliUllllilnillllliiiillllliiiillilliiiillllliiMl^ 

]  THE    GRAND    HOTEL  tj 

4  The  "  Grand  "  is  a  Hotel  of  Distinction  with  all  the 
■i  superlative  excellence  of  American  ideals,  and  much 
of  the  Japanesy  chann  of  the  opulent  East,  yet  with 
moderate  charges.  It  is  as  famous  for  its  hospitality 
as  for  its  perfect  service  and  unrivalled  cuisine.  It  is 
one  of  the  most  inviting  and  homelike  hotels  of  the 
worid,  and  one  of  the  best  liked. 


J 
1 


Though  located  midway  between  the  business  and 
residential  sections  of  the  port,  the  "  Grand "  stands 
in  a  cherry-embowered  garden  of  its  own,  flanked  on 
two  sides  by  the  sea.  From  the  famous  Dining  Room 
and  the  broad,  glassed-in  verandas  one  looks  over 
hundreds  of  square  miles  of  junk-flecked  sea  so  ten- 
,deriy  blue,  so  drowsy  and  so  tranquil  that  the  view 
alone  would  take  the  nerve  strain  out  of  the  most 
overworked  person. 

The  airy,  commodious  rooms  are  lighted  throughout 
by  mellow  sunshine,  and  warmed  in  winter  by  steam 
heat  and  attractive  open  fire-places.  They  are  equipped 
with  evenrthing  necessary  for  the  traveler's  con]iort. 
The  room-boys  speak  English,  and  are  expert  valets — 
waiting  upon  the  tourist  with  the  tireless  care  and 
minuteness  characteristic  o^  the  best  Japanese  ser- 
vants. 


c       •= 


=    -5 


1  To  world-travelers  the  "Grand"  is   as  much  a 

f  feature  of  Japan  as  Fuji-yama  itself,  and  those  who     |-J 

J  would  get  the  most  enjoyment  out  of  their  trip  to 

J  Japan  make  it  their  headquarters  while  there. 

I  Its  gay  and  brilliant  lobby  is  a  celebrated  rendez- 

J  Yous  for  the  surging  tides  of  travel  that  sweep  cease- 

J  lessly  round  the  worid  to  and  from  the  Orient  and  the 

I  Occident,  as  well  as  the  centre  of  the  joyous  social  life 

1  of  Yokohama. 


F     « 


S     r 


E 


I|N*m||Min||||MM||||||im|||lini||||||ll|||||||r|||||||kU||||llM|||||Ml||||||MM|||||IH|||m 
lltiilllbteildUHiuillllliiilllhhiillltliiiilllliiiiillllliMllllliiiilllliiiiillllliiiil^ 


THE 

ORIENTAL  PALACE 

HOTEL 

Mo.  It.  The  Bund,  Yokohama. 

THE  MOST  MODERN  AND  UP  TO  DATE 

HOTEL  IN  THE  FAR  SAST 

Strictly  First  Cl&M 


Cable  Address : 
ORIENTAL 
YOKOEAKA 


Cable  Used : 

A.  B.  C.  5(b  Ed'n 

Western  Union 

Private  Code 


Post  Office  Boi 
no.  167 


The  Oriental  Palace  Hotel  Tias  been  established  for  the  last  eigW 

years,  and  its  reputation  as  the  leading  tirst-class  Hotel  of  this  port 

has  never  been  questioned. 

Accommodation  is  suited  to  all  classes  of  visitors  :  Suites 
de  Luxe,  with  Sitting  and  Bath  Rooms  attached,  are  in 
the  forefront  of  the  Hotel  with  private  Verandah,  over- 
looking the  beautiful  Harbor  of  Yokohama. 

The  Steam-Launch  "  Mascotte  "  meets  all  incoming  and  outgoin{ 


Hotel  Omnibus  meets  all  principal  trains. 
Motor  cars  are  available  for  the  convenience  of  Visitors. 

The  Cuisine  is  unexcelled  pnd  under  the  management   of 

a  French  Chef;  its  reputation  has  not  been  surpassed  by 

any  Hotel  in  the  Far  East. 
Under  the  sole  Proprietorship  and  Management  of 

L.  MVRAOUI 


lOTEL   BELMONT 

,  MAIN  STREET,  YOKOHAMA,  JAPAN 

TELEQRAPH  ADDRESS:  "BELMONT,  YOKOHAMA" 


'^^S 


he  Belmont  is  a  new,  clean,  modem,  comfortable,  and  strictly  firat- 
<  hotel  under  American  management,  with  electric  lights,  sanitary  hot 
cold  baths,  a,  ddightful  summet  garden,  and  a,  cuisine  noted  f<^  its 

you  are  looking  tor  a  moderate  pricral  hotel  where  large,  airy  rooms, 
iliness  and  good  food  are  prominent  feHtm^s,  come  to  the  Belmont. 

the  most  popular  family  hotel  in  Yokohama,  and  is  patronized  by 
[  residents,  army  and  navy  men.  commercml  travelers,  and  tourists 

atet  trom  fi  to  6  yea  a  day  ($2.50  to  83  American  money)  for  room 
board  iDclusive.  No  extras.  Special  reduction  for  a  long  stay,  Table- 
d  by  the  week  or  month,  at  rcasonable  prices, 
ir  Enf^isb-apealdQg  porter  meets  all  incoming  trains  and  ships,  and 
a  charge  (bee)  of  travelers'  luggage. 


i 


>♦♦♦♦###< 


THE  CLUB  HOTEL 

Ltd. 
THE  BUND,  YOKOHAMA 


A  bomelikCy  family  botel,  popular  nvifli 
tonrists  because  of  its  large,  clean,  well-ventilated 
and  well-warmed  rooms;  its  good  food,  excellent 
service,  and  moderate  rates.  It  is  deservedly  liked  by 
Americans,  English  and  Australians,  and  is  much  pat- 
ronized by  Army  and  Navy  officers  and  their  families. 

Its  splendid  locatton  on  tbe  Bond  adiacent 
to  tbe  Yokobama  United  Club»  and  within  a  few 
minutes*  walk  of  the  Post  Office,  the  chief  banks  and 
business  houses,  makes  it  an  ideal  hotel  for  commer- 
cial travelers.  Many  of  its  sunny  rooms  have  open 
fireplaces,  private  baths,  and  verandas,  and  nearly  all 
afford  magnificent  sea  views. 

Thougb  one  ol  tbe  oldest  ol  tbe  Yokobama 
botels*  **THE  CLUB"  is  modern  throughout,  with 
all  the  up-to-date  features  and  conveniences  of  a  fash- 
ionable, high-priced  hotel. 

Rates  from  ¥5  a  day  ($2.50  U.S.  money),  Amer- 
ican plan.  Special  reductions  for  a  long  stay  and 
for  families. 

Our  porters  meet  incoming  trains  and  steamers  and  relieve 
the  traveler  of  all  worry  about  luggage. 

Write  OS  In  advance  and  ive  j/vUl  reserve 
apartments  for  yon. 

Table-board  at  low  prices,  quoted  on  application. 


THE 

KAIHIN-IN 

HOTEL 


KAMAKURA 
JAPAN 


ft  commodioDS  and  excellently  appointed  hotel  under  foreign  super- 
*  vision,  delightfully  situated  in  the  sometime  capital  of  Old  Japan, 
■*■  in  a  vast  park  amid  beautiful  surroundings.  Overlooking  tlie 
,  with  magnificent  views.  Splendid  pine-fringed  beach,  where  the  surf 
ndets  ceaselessly  and  sings  its  diapason  melodies  through  the  long 
ful  days  and  sleepful  nights.  Unexcelled  sea-bathing,  boating,  and 
ing.  Three  mites  from  charming  EN  OS  HIM  A  (tram-cars)  and  within 
w  minute's  walk  of  the  KAMAKURA  DIABUTSU,  one  of  the  most 
lOna  and  unforgettable  sights  in  Japan. 

LAMAKURA  is  only  40  min.  by  rdlway  from  Yokohama  (35  more 
D  Tokyo),  and  there  are  freqnent  trains.  It  is  an  ideally  restful  place 
tbe  tourist,  just  far  enough  from  the  city  (o  give  one  an  entire  change 
ovironment,  yet  near  enough  to  enable  the  business  man  to  go  and 
ic  Idsurely.     The  region  abounds  in  lovely  walks  and  charming  views. 

%«  Bmt  BaAiag  in  Japan.  A  Paradise  for  Children. 

Swttt,  Clean,  and  Healthful 

\e  KAIHIN-IN  HOTEI,  is  a  popular  rendezvous  for  motorists, 
is  the  centre  of  an  attractive  social  life.  The  broad,  wind-swept 
onles,  the  large,  clean,  airy  rooms,  and  the  good  food  and  line  ser- 
,  coupled  with  the  fragrant  gardens  and  pine  groves  in  which  the 
■1  is  embowered,  impart  an  enduring  charm.  No  tourist  should  leave 
in  before  spending  a  few  days  in  beautiful  and  historic  Kamakura. 

Uthongh  the  hotel  caters  to  the  best  patronage,  its  rates  are  very 
reasonable.       For  terms  apply  to  W.  AOYAMA,  Manager. 


EDROFEAN  AUD   AOIERICAK  PLAN 

Leading  Hotel  in  ttie  Capltf 

EVERY   MODERH   CONVENIENCE 
HOTEL   ORCHESTKA   EVERY  EVENIHG 

ROOMS  SINGLE  OR  EH  SUITE,  WITH  OR  WITHOUT  BA.TB 

S.  Kitam 

Fn 

CiMtAddra*:"aEITOKEN."    CaU:  A.B.C.5BiEaiam 


Uyeno  Seiyoben  Hotel 
CaSi  Lion,  Ginza 
Cafe  Shimbashi,  Shimbashi 
Dining  Car  Service 


(Uyeno  Park) 

(Parisian  CaK) 

(American  Bar  and  Quick  Lundi) 

(Main  Line  of  Imperial  GoTemmt 
way.  between  TOkio.  KySt<^ 
K<»)e,  and  Shintonoaeki) 


IMPERIAL  HOTFI, 
TOKYO 

1 

^VHIHf.-                  western 

1 

IS   THE   HOME  FOR   TOURISTS 

AND 

f^riAL  CENTER  OF  THE  CAPITAL 

ROOMS  EN   SUITE  OR  SINGLE 
WITH   OR  WITHOUT  BATH 

AISAKU    HAVASMI 

1 

THE    PARK    HOTEL 


Matsushlma,  Japan 


FUTAKO  JIMA  (TWIN  ISLANDS),  A  VIEW  AT  MATSUSHIMA 


The  Park  Hotel  is  new  and  absolutely  up-to-date,  with  eveil 
comfort   and    luxury   desired    by  foreign   travelers.      Englid 

spolcea. 

Superbly  situated  on  the  shore  of  the  matchless  Matsushinu 
Bay,  the  most  beautiful  and  celebrated  of  the  Sankei,  or  Tbrtc 
Great  Sights  of  Japan. 

No  foreigner  should  leave  Japan  without  seeing  Matsushimi 
and  its  wonderful  island-studded  bay,  noted  alike  for  its  chonii, 
its  restfulness,  and  its  fine  fishing.  Fishing  and  boating  »• 
cursions  planned  by  the  hotel  management. 

The  hotel  is  under  the  management  of  the  ^elUknown  Sd- 
yoken  Hotel.ofTokyO,  and  the  special  supervision  of  the  Hi]r^i 
Prefectural  Government. 

Noted  for  its  excellent  food  and  faultless  service. 

Our  accommodations  are  unsurpassed,  and  our  rates  in 
moderate  enough  to  permit  the  most  economically  dispoM^ 
traveler  to  make  a  long  stay  in  this  Japanese  paradise. 

Rooms  can  be  enS^S^d.  of  the  f  etyoAsn  Hotel,  in  TVtjl 


Kanaya  Hotel 

nikkD,  japan 

Telegraphic  address :  "  Kanaya,  NikktF" 


Favorably  known  to  the  traveling  public  for 
the  beauty  of  its  environment,  the  excellence 
of  its  appointments ;  for  its  attractive  rooms , 
low  rates,  and  perfect  service.  Good  food 
cooked  in  foreign  style  and  served  by  English- 
speaking  servants. 

The  Kanaya  Hotel  is  newly  built,  and  furnished  in  Euro- 
Dean  style,  with  large,  airy,  comfortable  rooms  and  balconies, 
:lean  and  modern  bath-rooms,  and  all  the  up-to-date  re- 
|uirements  of  a  first-class  hotel.  Its  surroundings  are  among 
Jie  most  beautiful  and  classical  in  Japan.  The  Nikko 
remples  and  Mausolea  (a  few  minutes'  walk  from  the  hotel) 
•ank  with  the  most  magnificent  extant,  and  are  to  Japan  what 
:he  Taj  Mahal  and  the  Delhi  Palaces  are  to  British  India. 

No  traveler  thinks  of  leaving  Japan  before  seeing  Nikko, 
md  the  best  classes  patronize  the  Kanaya  Hotel.  Open  the 
^ear  round  for  permanent  and  transient  guests.  The  hotel 
provides  guides  and  horses  at  reasonable  rates.  Garage, 
fapanese  wing  where  tourists  may  enjoy  the  charm  of  a  Jap- 
mese  inn  with  the  comfort  and  good  food  of  a  foreign  hotel. 


Rates  from  6  yen  and  upward  per  day,  American  plan 
Special  reduction  for  a  long  stay 


Don't  fail  to  see  Nikko,  and  when  you  are 
here,  stop  at  the  Kanaya  Hotel. 


MIYAKO<^HOTEL 


Telegraph  address:  irv/Sxn     iat>aim  Telephone 

«  Miyako,  Kyoto  "  ft.  I U 1 U,  JArAIN  ^^^^  421338 


The  Miyako  is  one  of  the  most  unique  and  charming  hotels  in 
Japan,  and  is  situated  in  a  stately,  25-acre  park  on  the  sloping  side 
of  the  classical,  temple-studded  Higashi-yama,  high  above  the  dty 
floor  and  out  of  reach  of  fires.  The  magnificent  views  from  its 
glassed-in  verandas  are  unequalled  in  extent  and  beauty.  Many 
of  the  150  newly  furnished  rooms  have  attractive  open  fireplaces 
and  private  baths.  All  are  furnished  in  foreign  style  and  are  known 
for  their  comfort  and  splendid  vistas. 

The  Miyako  is  close  to  the  most  celebrated  of  the  KySto  tem- 
ples, and  is  within  a  few  minutes  ride  by  jinriki  or  tramway  of  the 
Mikado's  Palace,  the  Museum,  Nijo  Castle,  and  all  the  chief  sights 
of  the  Old  Capital.  The  tramway  to  Lake  Biwa  goes  past  the  foot 
of  the  hill.  Beautiful  walks  radiate  to  groves  of  pine  and  maple 
trees,  and  the  environs  are  restful,  tranquil,  and  soothing. 

The  Miyako  is  the-  most  homelike  hotel  in  Japan,  with  a  cuisine 
admittedly  the  best,  and  with  unexcelled  service.  Our  rates  are 
not  higher  than  those  of  inferior  hotels.  Our  free  Information  Bu- 
reau supplies  guides  at  reasonable  prices  and  is  a  great  convenience 
to  travelers. 

The  Miyako  was  twice  patronized  by  H.  I.  H.  Prince  Arthur 
of  Connaught,  and  is  the  headquarters  in  Kyoto  for  the  best  class 
of  travel  always. 

Miyako  Products  Bureau 

(MIYAKO   HOTEL) 

All  the  products  of  Kyoto  and  other  districts  likely  to  interest  the  trav» 
eller  are  displayed  plainly  marked  at  fixed  prices.  No  imitation  goods,  and  no  baf 
gaining.    Everything  direct  from  producers  and  guaranteed  to  be  as  represented. 

M.  Hamaguchi,  Manager 

THE  DAIBUTSU  HOTEL 

is  run  in  connection  with  the  Miyako,  and  caters  to  the  economically 
disposed.    Every  comfort  and  convenience  at  a  low  price.     Excellent 

food  and  service. 


)RIENTAL  HOTEL,  Limited 

THE  BUND,  KOBE,  JAPAN 

le  mofl  populu  bold  in  ihc  Fu  Eait  (or  Comfort,  Locadon,  Rqmt^oD,  and 

REASONABLE  RATES.      EXCELLENT  CUISINE 

}inelike,    Excliuive,  Refined,  and  with   ideal  BccommodadoDt  lor  bodi  per' 

BEAUTIFULLY  SITUATED  NEAR  THE  SEA 

ith  (ar-reaching  viewa.       Eitnuive  Root  GBiden.       Elevalort.       Fiieplacet. 

All  the  requircEDcnlg  of  comiort  and  luiuiy. 

mned  on  the  lias  o(  the  bat  Londoti  and  New  York  boteli,  with  faultleu 

■ervice  and  lumptDOiu  appcoiitment).    Fine  coonecliis  bath-roomi.    Abio- 

lutely  Giepcooi.    Largett  and  moat  attractive  hotel  in  Japan. 

Engliih-ipeakiiig  ruDDen  meet  all  boinl  and  incoming  ihipi. 

PRIVATE  POWER  LAUNCH  AND  MOTOR  CARS 

Patronized  by  the  Fuit  Clan  TouriA  of  the  World. 

itei  from  ¥7  a  day  and  upward  ($3.30  American  monef)  (or  room  and  board. 

Neat  Sannomiya  Station.  Eog^  Management. 

TELEGRAPHIC  ADDBESSl  "  OKIENTAL"  KOBE 


TOR  HOTEL.  Ltd. 

KOBE.  JAPAN 
THE  FmEST  HOTEL  IN  THE  EMST 

Thoroughly  up-to-date  Under  Swim  Managcmeat 


Gaim^ 


The  Tor  Hotel  stands  in  its  own  beautiful  gar- 1 
dens  overlooking  the  Town  and  Inland  Sea. 

Healthy,  quiet  situation  free  from  dust. 

Rates  from  ¥7  a  day  and  upward,  American  plan. 

Spacious  open  and  enclosed  verandahs. 

The  steam  launch  "TOR  "  and  the  private  auto- 1 
mobile  meet  all  boats  and  trains. 

Caiie  Address  "  Tor;'  KoU.  H  LUTZ,  Maiufa 


)J\r.  Tourist 


Does  it  mean  anything  to  you  to  keep  up  with  the  march 
of  World  events — with  the  happenings  in  your  Home-land, 
while  enjoying  the  sights  of  Japan  ? 

■ 

Are  you  interested  to  know  what  is  transpirmg  in  Japan 
during  your  sojourn  ?  Would  you  appreciate  knowing  that  a 
local  event  of  unusual  interest  was  about  to  take  place,  the 
observance  of  which  would  add  to  the  charm  of  your  visit? 

Would  it  be  worth  your  while  in  a  strange  land  to  know 
the  reliable  firms  to  deal  with  in  obtaining  the  necessary 
comforts  of  travel,  in  making  your  purchases,  etc.  ? 

If  a  knowledge  of  all  or  any  of  these  things  means 
anything  to  you  —  why  not  have  that  knowledge? 

The  Japan  Advertiser 

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missionaries  in  3^P^n. 


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RAYMOND-WHITGOMB 

TOURS 

TO 

JAPAN 


CHINA,   SIBERM,   PHILIPPINES,   INDM 

And  other  fascinating  countries  of  the  Far  East 

Small  groups  with  the  character  and  appearance  of 
private  parties.     Highest  travel  plane. 

OTHER  TOURS 

Round  the  World  and  to   Europe,  Eg)rpt  and  the 

Holy  Land,  South  America,  Panama  and 

Jamaica,  California  and  Florida. 

AUTOMOBILE  TOURS 

In  Europe  and  the  United  States. 


Send  for  booklet  of  tours  that  interest  you. 


RAYMOND  &  WHITCOMB  CO. 

"BoiXm]  New  Toxic;  PliHadeVBtMa.;  QMoago;  SanFranclsoo;  LosAagAlM; 
London;  HamUVm,  Bwrn^^N  '^^3Sk«I^ss^  ^%aut&s»« 


The  Yokohama  Specie  Bank 

(Umlfed) 

Capital  Subscribed Yen  48,000,000 

Capital  Paid  Up '*    30,000,000 

Reserve  Fund "    18,550,000 

President  :  Junnosuke  Inouye,  Esq. 
"'G^^r.^ullZl  \  V"ki  Van^akawa.  Esq. 

Directors 

J.  Inouye,  Esq.  R.  Kimura»  Esq.  M.  Odagiri,  Esq. 

N.  Soma,  Esq.  R.  Hara,  Esq.  T.  Kawashima,  Esq. 

K.  Sonoda,  Esq.  Y.  Yamakawa,  Esq.       Baron  K.  Iwasaki. 

HEAD  OFFICE:  YOKOHAMA 

Manager  :  S.  K.  Suzuki,  Esq. 

BRANCHES  AND  AGENCIES 

Shanghai  Tiehling  Lyons 

Hankow  Changchun  New  York 

Peking  Antung-hsien  San  Francisco 

Tientsin  Harbin  Los  Angeles 

Newchwang  Tokyo  Honolulu 

Dairen  (Dalny)  Osaka  Bombay 

R^ojun  (Port  Arthur)  Kobe  Calcutta 

Liaoyang  Nagasaki  Hongkong 

Fengtien  (Mukden)  London 

Correspondents  at  all  the  chief  commercial  cities  in  the  world. 

LONDON  BANKERS 

Parr's  Bank,  Ltd.  —  Union  of  London  and  Smith's  Bank,  Ltd.  — 

London  Joint  Stock  Bank,  Ltd. 

Interest  allowed  on  Current  Accounts  and  Fixed  Deposits  on 
terms  to  be  ascertained  on  application. 

Every  description  of  Banking  business  transacted. 

For  particulars,  apply  to  the  managers. 

Certified  cheques  on  this  Bank  will  be  taketv  b^  XW  CA>.^Qtft. 
House  at  Yokohama  as  cash  in  payment  oi  duVj. 


Establbhed  Half  a  Century 


LANE.  CRAWFORD  &  CO..  Lh 

^be  Largest  Foreign  Department  Store 

in  Japan 


DEPATVCMEN'CS 

• 

.  Biscuits  and  Cakes 

TOURISTS 

Boots  and  Shoes 

Brushware 

Wn.T.  FIND 

Chinaware 

Cigars  and 

EVERYTHING 

Tobacco 

Corsets 

THEY 

Drapery 

Furnishings 

REQUIRE 

Glassware 

Groceries 

HERE 

Haberdashery 

DEPATt'm^Em 

Hats  andCipi 
Hooeiy  and  Ned 
wear  • 


MilEnefy 

RAinooali 

Ribbons 

Tailoring 

Tapestries 

Trunks  and  Bag 
Wallpapers 

Wines  and  Spirit 


Our  Tailoring  Department  is  under  the  supet 
Vision  of  First  Class  London  Cutters 


Sole  Agents  for 

Messrs.  Burberry's  Waterproof  Garment 


36  N&WnMJto, 

KOBEi 


59  Main  St. 


eo  M-ilN  STBEET.  YOKOnAHLV 

Hbadqttartehs  in  Japan  fob  American,  Englisii,  and 

French  Medicines  and  Toiiet  Specialties 
Everything  m  this  line  of  which  the  traveler  may  stand  in  need 

Tooth-powdiir  and  bruahes.   Dental  Cream.   Lislcrioc.   Absorbent 

Cotton.  Vaseline.  Talc  and  Sachet  Powders.   Cold  Cream. 

Brumo  Seltzer.    Liver  Pills,  etc.,  etc. 

PRESCRIPTIONS  FILLED  BY  EXPERT  CHEMISTS 
WE  MAKE  NO  MISTAKES 


i 


I    ASaORTMENTB    OP    FINE    ENGLISH,    AMERICAN, 
FRENCH    PERJIJMEB    AMD    TOILET   WATERS 

SPECIALTIES 

(rom  Wyeth  (Philndelpliia);  Steams  (Detroit);  Parke  Davis  &  Co.; 

Johnson  &  Juhnfwii;   Colgate  &  Co..  etc. 
American  Soda  Fountain,       Delieiova  American  Sqft  Drinks, 

Aerated  Waters 
We  earry  what  yoii  want,  nnd  do  not  stock  second-grade  or  spurious 
goods.    Our  aiiu  is  to  give  you  whiit  you  wish,  and  not  to  palm  oS 
something"  just  as  i;ood." 

A.  Marsh,  itia 


THE 

YOKOHAMA 
NURSERY 

COMPANY 


BRANCH  OFFICES: 

31  Barclay  St.,  New  York,  ■  xn 

U.S.  A.  *■'"■ 

„  — ^.  21-35,  Nakamura,  Bluff,  Yokohama 

Craven  House,  Klng'swapr,  '              

London,  W.C.  LARGEST   ESTABLISHMENT 

^  ^,  "77.  OF   THE   KIND 

Cable  Address :  

Uyekieumi,  Yokohama. 

Tignnum,  London.  SUvcT  Cups  awurdcd  by  the  Royul  Horti- 

Suzuki,  New  York.  cultural  Socicty  and  Diploma  of  the 

A  «  r^  ^^^\^'^'l        A  Anglo-Japanese  Exhibition,  1910 

A.  B.  C.  4th,  5th  Editions  and  **            '^       ' 

Western  Union. 

—  Landscape  Garden  Architects, 

Telephon^No.  509  p,^^.g^g^  ^^ ^  q^^^^^^, 

P.  0.  Box  72  Horticulturists 


Bouquets,    Baskets,   Wreaths,    and   Other  Artistic    Decorations 

LARGE  STOCK  OF 

Shrubs,  Trees,  Bulbs,  Fern   Balls,  Dwarfed  Trees,   and  Seeds 

ALWAYS  ON  HAND 

Fine  Collection  of  Orchids 


IRIS  AND  PEONY  GARDENS  AT  KAMATA 


Specialty,  LILY-BULBS  AND  NURSERY  STOCKS 


Handsome  illustiated  C^iVaXo^^Vtv^tv^.^VA^^^^^^^'^^^^^'^ 


K.  TAM AMURA  and  soN 

PHOTOGRAPHIC  GARDEN 

NO.  1498,  NAKAMURA,  BLUFF,  YOKOHAMA 


Japans  Most  Celebrated 
Photographer 


TOURIST  TRADE  A  SPECIALTY 

English  Spoken 


Portraits  aud  all  kinds  of  photographic  work  done  skil- 
fully and  in  the  latest  style. 

Varied  assortment  of  costumes  for  travelers  who  wish 
to  be  pictured  in  Japanese  clothing. 

Developing,  printing,  enlarging,  and  coloring  done 
quickly,  cheaply,  and  satisfactorily. 

Beautiful  lantern  slides  made  from  the  traveler's  own 
pictures. 

The  finest  assortment  in  Japan  of  colored  bromide 
pictures,  post  cards,  albums,  hand-colored  lantern-slides, 
picture-frames  in  quaint  and  beautiful  native  woods,  gold 
lacquered  photographs,  etc. 

Hand-colored  views  from  every  part  of  the  Japanese 
Empire  at  very  reasonable  prices. 

We  do  the  best  and  finest  work  at  the  most  moderate 
price. 

We  photograph  patrons  in  garden  or  house,  against 
natural  backgrounds,  amidst  the  foliage  ^xi^  ^cs^^vs*  ^ 
the  season.    Such  pictures  make  umajvie  ^x^^  ^^'Cvc^sSvr. 
souvenirs  of  Japan. 


it 


_,     Special  Appointment       ^*     Mi^<^ 
to  die  Imperial  Household 


^ 


*      IIDA  £^  CO. 

"TAKASHIMAYA" 

(Established  1857) 

SILK  MEHCH^NTS 

Silks,  Crepes,  Scarfs,  Brocades 

Mandarin  Coats.  Wrappers,  Blouses 

^J  Dress-patterns,  Velvet-Pictures 

Art-Embroideries,  Screens 

Emb.  Hanging  Pictures 

Silk  Underwear,  Hosiery,  Etc 


Kyoto      KaTuuinuu  Tikobuji 
Tdcro      NiJiikonyadio  Kyobadu 
Vokohfttnft        61,  Yamauitacbo 


'^  5f  ^  ^ 


ig, 


MAKUZU 
KOZAN 


Miyagawa  Kozan 

Proprietor 


Celebrated  Makuzu  Kozan 
Pottery  and  Porcelain 

The  beautiful  "Maltuiu"  is  famous  among  the  eicquisile 
wares  of  Old  Japan.  Made  in  manj  lovely  shapes  and 
colors,  from  dainty  tea-pots  to  big  vases. 

Travelers  are  welcome  lo  the 
and  are  shown  the 
of  making,  burning, 
and  decorating  ihe  wares.  No 
fees  are  expected,  and  no  one 
is  urged  to  buy  anything.  Eng- 
lish spoken.    The  potter 


potter 


e  of  the  ■ 


iighte"   of 


Yokohama,  .tnd 

hould  not  be 

missed. 

The  showroom 

contain  a  bu- 

perb  colleetion  of  newlv  finished 

wares    ranging   i 

n    price    from 

fifty  ™«  to  one  hu 

ndred  yen. 

.  Purchases  pack 

d   with   great 

care  and  deYwerci  an^-w'W.it. 

^ji&^  S.  I.  YAMATOTA 


Shirt  Manufacturer 

No.  6,   BENTEN-DORI,  YOKOHAMA 


TBADE 


Cable  Address, "  Yamatoya" 
Western  Union  Telegraphic 
Code  used. 
Telephone  No.  183 


BRANCH  STORES 

342,  Motomachi  .Itchome,  Kobe 

3,  Ginza  Sanchome,  Tokyo 

I,  Ogawamachi,  Kanda,  Tokyo 

The  Grand  Hotel,  Yokohama 


The  Leading  Shirt  Manufacturers  of  Japan 

OUR  SPECIALTIES  ARE 

SHIRTS,  COLURS,  PYJAMAS,  TIES,  UNDERWEAR,  ETC. 

In  Silk,  Linen,  and  Cotton  Crape 

MEN'S  AND  WOMEN'S  WEAR 

The  best  Japanese  Cotton  Crape  will  wear  three  times  aslong*as 
other  similar  materials,  and  will  look  well  as  long  as  it  holds  to- 
gether. Our  Special  Silks  and  Crapes  are  made  in  our  own  exten- 
sive mills,  and  are  superior  to  all  others.  Beautiful  color  designs 
that  won't  fade. 

Our  incomparable  Dress  Shirts  and  Collars  are  made  in  the 
latest  London  and  New  York  styles,  of  the  finest  and  strongest 
Irish  Linen  imported  by  us  direct  from  the  mills  in  Ireland.  They 
are  superior  and  considerably  cheaper  than  anything  the  traveler 
can  buy. 

We  make  all  our  shirts,  etc.,  to  measure,  promptly  and  satisfac- 
torily. The  highest  grade  cotton-crape  shirts  cost  but  $1.50 
American  money  each,  made  to  fit  you  according  to  your  own  wishes. 

Our  outing  shirts  of  soft,  fine  Japanese  silks  are  beautiful,  inex- 
pensive, and  durable. 

In  buying  of  us  you  buy  at  headquarters,  for  we  supply  many  of 
the  leading  haberdashers  of  the  world.  Special  attention  to  Tourist 
Trade.  English  spoken  in  all  departments.  Mail  orders  to  any 
parts  of  the  world  a  specialty. 

Head  the  following  Splendid  Endorsements 

''  It  gives  me  pleasure  to  S2Ly  \\\?l\,Mt.  Yamatoya  has  made  a  great  number  of 
shirts  for  me  and  they  a\\  have  \>ee:iv  saWsl-aKX^t^j  :^    ^x-gaftA.,  ^m..  H.  T aft. 

"  I  am  much  pleased  mtU  X\v<j  sUxteJ'    S^v^^^^^^-^^vcw.^^. 


THE  YAMATO 


Wholesale  —  Silk  Store 


Retail 


34-35  Benten-dori,  Tokohaiaa 

JAPAN 


Fmbroidered 

Night-gowns 

Hand-painted 

and 

Chemises 

Novelties: 

Drawn-work: 

Corset  covers 

Jewel  boxes 

Silk  blouses 

Shawls  &  scarfs 

Hat-pin  cases 

Linen    " 

Parasols 

Glove  cases 

Crepe    « 

Linen  handkfs. 

Hdkf.  cases 

Silk  dress  len^lhs 

Silk  stockings 

Needle  books 

Linen  **        " 

Men's  socks 

Picture  frames 

Crepe  **        « 

Emb.  bags 

Opera  bags 

Gauze «        " 

Table-centers 

Pin  boxes 

Dressing  Jackets 

Doilies  &  napkins 

Basket  bags 

Japanese  kimonos 

Tea  &  tray  cloths 

Card  cases 

Mandarin  coats 

Silk  fans 

Pin-cushions 

Evening  coats 

Irish  lace 

Place  cards 

Wadded  gowns 

Bedspreads 

Menu  cards 

Smoking  Jackets 

Gut-velvet 

Writing  papers 

Baby's  Jackets 

pictures 

etc.,  etc. 

Wadded  vests 

etc.,  etc. 

Prices  marked  in  plain  figures 

We  have  been  in  business  since  1899,  and  are  known  the 
world  over  as  Dealers  in  Reliable  Goods  at  Honest  Prices. 
We  have  thousands  of  customers  in  every  country  on  the 
globe.  Each  one  of  these  thousands  of  customers  has  had  a 
square  deal  every  time  they  have  bought  from  us.  Our  Stand- 
ing is  High  and  Our  Credit  Good. 

OUR  MAIL  ORDER  DEPARTMENT  will  attend  to  your 
mail  orders  most  accurately  and  promptly.     English  spoken. 

Write  for  our  illustrated  catalog  in  Englxihy  to-da>^. 


When  you  visit 
the  Land  of  the 
Rising  Sun,  do 
not   fail   to    see 

NOZAWAYA'S  SILK  STORE 
AT  YOKOHAMA 

FOB  IT  CONTAIKS  THE 

Greatest  Variety  of  BeautUul  Silks 
in  the  Empire 

The  Nozawaya  products  are  known  round  the  worid  for 
their  up-to^ate  styles,  splendid  durability,  and  reasonable 
cost. 

We  carry  a  full  line  o£  superb  Mandarin  Coats,  Stylish 
Theatre  Wraps  and  Gowns,  Kimonos,  Dressing  Gowns, 
Smoking  Jackets,  Drawn  Linen,  Underwear,  Infants'  Wear, 
Silk  Novelties,  and  a  wide  selection  of  various  articles  made 
of  fine  Japanese  silk  and  cotton-crape. 

We  make  a  specialty  of  Parisian  Gowns.  Our  skilled  de- 
signers visit  Paris  and  London  each  season,  and  thus  enable 
us  to  offer  our  patrons  advance  styles  in  fashionable  creations 
not  to  be  obtained  elsewhere  in  Japan.  Our  prices  are  con- 
siderably below  those  asked  by  others,  and  our  dress-making 
department  is  patronized  extensively  by  foreign  ladies  read- 
ing in  Yokohama  and  Tokyo. 

English  is  spoken  in  all  our  departments.    The  quality  of 
our  goods  is  unexcelled,  and  our  prices  are  right. 
NOZiWAXA'S  SILK  STOKE 
29-30  BES'i:Ei*-^W>^V^^*-'i'l"^S^*^ 
Stores  to  Wbw  "XoA.  ^-I"""-  ««-^»-  ^aa-'^^'^a™. 


TOYAMA  & 
COMPANY 

IVORISTS 

Cinza  Nichoine,  Ky<d>atluka 
TOKYO,  JAPAN 

Designers  <^  and 

Dealers  in 

FINE  IVORY 

CARVINGS 


THE  GODDESS  KWASKON 


We  employ  the  bert  artuti  in  Jsp*n  and  we  lae  only  die  higheM  grada  d  fine 
Swneie  ood  African  noiy.    We  lue  do  wainu  ludu,  braie,  or  odier  tubititulei. 

We  *upply  Bit  collector!  and  the  great  moieuDU  of  die  wodd,  and  our  pcodudi 
are  known  QVeiywhcRt  at  Ac  GneH  of  ihe  fme.  We  aie  RCOgoized  headquarter! 
[oi  ererrthing  in  the  way  o(  ivory  carvingi,  bom  the  unalletf  anj  daiotieM  astaiket 
to  ■n«gni"lif>fH  groupt  cottbig  ten  ihouuDd  yen. 

A  wperb  collection  of  Gniihed  pecei  u  on  diiplay  in  our  TokyO  rtole,  to  v^ich 
rialon  are  cordially  invited.  We  lake  pleuure  in  having  louriMi  vist  our  aleGen, 
and  in  showing  them  the  lughly  intereriing  pracea  of  carving  the  ivoiy  from  ele- 
phant tuLi. 

Hie  Toyama  rtamp  on  a  piece  of  ivory  ii  a  guarantee  o(  quality  and  work. 
nanihip.  Our  producti  are  leaioaed  and  do  not  warp  or  crack.  Out  pricei 
■le  no  hif^ei  than  thoae  demanded  by  irreqwnMble  dealen  for  cheap  imilationa. 

We  gunrantee  every  piece  we  aell,  md  ikaii4\i»dK.  *A  ft*  «j»»!™»^ 

!m     Whaiyoa  buy  ToyMtnm  ivorie.  you  gel  &t  teA,»6».Qs*.4aJi:^-l~5»A 
"akfl  jvurpurchaia  of  u*  udwevn'&ttctt.lcM'^^^- 


J^ 


YAMANAKA  &  CO. 

AWATA,    KYDTO,    japan 

DEALERS    IN    OBJECTS 

OF   ART 
ANTIQUE  AND  MODERN 

Goods  Purchased  will  be 

packed  and  sent  if  desired 

through  our  American  and 

European  Houses 

YAMANAKA  &  CO. 

254  Fifth  Ave.,  New  York,  N.  Y. 

YAMANAKA  &  CO. 

456  Boylston  St.,  Boston^  Mass. 

YAMANAKA  &  CO. 

127  New  Botv4  %x.,  V«ss.«iss^"^ . 


K.  I.  KUROD A 

19y  Teramachi  Shi  jo  Minami,  Kydto,  Japan 

Telephone,  Shimo  No.  1714 

ARTISTIC  BRONZE  WARES 

Gold^  Silver,  and  Copper  Bronze  Articles 

in  great  variety 

Tourists  are  cordially  invited  to  inspect  our  show- 
rooms (English  spoken)  and  our  superb  collection 
of  fine  bronze  objects.  Also  to  visit  our  workshop 
and  see  the  processes  of  making  and  finishing  gold 
and  silver  bronze. 

Our  bronzes  have  a  world-wide  reputation  for  refined 
beauty  and  excellence.  Much  of  our  gold  bronze 
contains  forty  per  cent  of  pure  gold,  and  articles 
made  from  it  are  marvels  of  beauty  and  real  worth. 

No  metal  is  so  lasting  as  fine  bronze,  and  no  art  wares 
are  so  indestructible  and  so  satisfactory  to  own. 
Good  bronze  increases  in  beauty  and  value  with 
age.  We  use  no  antimony  or  cheap  substitutes  in 
the  preparation  of  our  bronzes,  and  they  are  prac- 
tically imperishable. 

The  finest  and  most  artistic  bronzes  you  will  see  in 
Japan  and  in  museum  collections  abroad  bear  the 
famous  Kuroda  stamp.  Demand  our  products  and 
you  will  always  be  sure  of  getting  the  best. 

Every  piece  with  our  name  is  guaranteed.  Our  ate- 
liers constitute  one  of  the  chief  "sights'*  of  Kyoto, 
and  no  one  should  leave  the  old  capital  without 
visiting  them.  Visitors  welcome  whether  they  buy 
anything  or  not. 

Ask  any  art  connoisseur  who  is  liVve  xxva^ex  cJlX^^'sx. 
bronze  in  Japan,  and  he  will  say  ¥L.\.^\«^^^* 


S.  HAY  A  SHT 

39,  Furomonzen,  EyStOi  Japan 

DEALER  m 

ANCIENT  AND  MODERN 

WORKS  OF  ART 

GOLD  LACQUER  AND  CURZOS 


We  are  headquarters  in  Kyoto  for  the  beautifol 
Art  Antiques  for  which  Japan  is  world  famed. 

Our  Gold  Lacquer  Ware  is  celebrated.  Tourists 
are  specially  invited  to  inspect  our  workshops  and 
see  the  intricate  and  delicate  processes  of  manu- 
facturing one  of  Japan's  most  national  products. 
We  employ  only  the  most  skilled  artists.  English 
spoken. 

Our  Showrooms  contain  a  varied  and  beautiful 
assortment  of  unique  art  objects  from  Japan, 
China  and  Korea,  and  our  motto  is  reliable  goods 
at  moderate  prices.  We  pack  purchases  with  scru- 
pulous care  and  will  deliver  them  anywhere. 

Visitors  to  our  showrooms  and  workshops  are 
not  importuned  to  buy.  Inspect  our  goods  and 
prices,  then  see  those  of  others,  and  you  will  come 
back  to  us. 


Remember  the  name,  S.  KAYASHI,  as  it  is  known  to 
experienced  art  collectoTS  the  \»oAd  wci. 


S.  KOMAI 

Shinmonzen,  Kyoto,  Japan 

Telephone,  Kami  No.  546 

FINE  DAMASCENE  WORK 

We  are  the  originators  of  the  beautiful  Zogan,  or  Inlaid  Metal 
Work,  that  has  made  Japan  as  famous  as  Damascus  for  Damascene 
products. 


WE  LEAD 


OTHERS  IMITATE 


The  latest  and  choicest  designs,  the  finest  material,  and  the  most 
expert  and  trustworthy  workmanship  characterize  our  productions. 
We  do  special  work  quickly  and  satisfactorily.  Suggest  the  design 
you  wish  carried  out  and  our  artists  will  make  the  article  exactly 
as  you  wish  it  at  no  extra  charge  beyond  our  customary  prices — 
which  are  extremely  moderate. 

We  never  duplicate  designs  left  with  us,  and  when  you  have 
special  work  made  no  one  ever  has  anything  just  like  it. 

We  carry  in  stock  a  fine  collection  of  handsome 


Cigtr     Cases 

Jewelry  Boxes 

Napkin-rings 

Toilet-Sets 

Cigarette    " 

Scarf  Pins 

Incense  Burners 

Bangles 

Card 

Hat      « 

Hanging  Plates 

Combs 

Match        " 

Hair     " 

Card  Trays 

Lockets 

Watch        " 

Umbrella  Handles 

Watch  Fobs 

Brooches 

PencU 

Parasol         " 

Tie-Clips 

Studs 

Coin 

Cane 

Necklaces 

Charms 

Cigar      Boxes 

Coat  Buttons 

Bracelets 

Knives 

Cigarette   " 

Cuff  Links 

Cabinets 

Spoons 

Shoe-Buclcies 

Flower  Vases 

Belts  and  Belt  Buckles 

Desk-Sets.i 

Remember  that  our  work  is  intrinsically  finer  than  other  work 
and  that  it  lasts  much  longer.  We  use  the  best  quality  gold  and 
gold-bronze  and  our  product  is  practically  indestructible. 

Visit  our  workshop  and  we  will  not  only  show  you  the  interest- 
ing process  of  makmg  damascene  work,  but  we  will  explain  to  you 
the  difference  between  the  real  and  the  spurious,  so  that  you  may 
not  be  deceived  into  buying  cheap  imitations  of  the  faultless 


EdaUbhd  1 645 

SATSUMA  WARE 
AWATA  WARE 


GnlPKIlio 

1911 

Cnid  Pria  London 

1910 

Grand  Prize  Seattk 

1909 

Gnn  Premio  Milano 

190t 

Grand  Prix  LieKC 

1905 

Grand  Prize  St.  Lonia 

19M 

GoM  Medal  Paria 

1900 

KYOTO.  JAPAN 
Mannlaclnrers  ol  tlie  crinkly  Satsnma  Ware  ivbick 
has  made  Japan  lamons  tlironabaal  tbe  ivorld 

Travelers  are  cordially  invited  to  visit  our  interesting 
showrooms,  and  inspect  one  of  the  finest  collections  of 
Satsuma  Ware  extant.  Also  to  go  through  our  extensive 
potteries  and  see  the  processes  of  making,  firing,  de- 
corating and  finishing  the  various  pieces.  This  is  an  ex- 
perience which  one  will  not  forget. 

Our  exquisite  porcelains  cover  a  wide  variety  of  designs 
and  subjects. 

Our  prices  are  moderate,  and  our  expert  packers  will 

pack  and  ship  purchases  anywhere. 

Remember  that  (he  Kinkosan  Salsuma  Ware  is  the 

/egitimate  and  original  -ware,  and  is  not  to  be  confounded 

7vith  the  host  of  imitations  wade  i«.  manj  places  iia  Ja^wi. 

77/^  rea/  costs  no  more  than  tkc  sf  wnous. 


I  MIYAIVIOTO    SHOKOJj 

[!       NO.  2.    YAZAEMONCH5,  CINZA,  TOKYd,  JAPAN       jl 
I  j       Near  Imperial  Hotel  Telephone,  KyObashi  2097       |  { 


i 


[  j    passed  and  should  be  seen  by  every  art  connoisseur. 


PURVEYORS  OF  FINE  ART  CURIOS  TO 
THE  IMPERIAL  JAPANESE  HOUSEHOLD 

GOLDSMITHS  SILVERSMITHS 

Our  collection  of  Ancient  and  Modern  Curios  is  unsur 


■  i 


Our  specialty  is  beautiful  gold  and  silver  work,  and  in 
these  we  are 


I  THE  LEADERS   IN   JAPAN  | 

I  j       Our  reputation  among  art  collectors  is  of  the  best,  as  our    I J 

I I  motto  is  Quality  at  Moderate  Prices.  We  speak  English  { I 
j  I  and  we  cater  particularly  to  the  discerning  foreign  traveler  j  { 
1 1  who  wants  beautiful  and  trustworthy  art  wares  at  their  right  |  j 
1 1  values..  jl 

1 1       We  make  3 

ij        Silver  Punch  Bowls,  Tea  Sets,  etc.        % 

I  j   to  order  at  short  notice,  and  we  guarantee  satisfaction.    We 

B*    employ  the  most  expert  workmen  in  Japan. 

I I  We  have  a  fine  collection  of 

I         Jade  and  Antique  Cold  Jewelery, 
Ivory  Carvings,  Quaint  Bronzes, 
Cold  Lacquer,  and  Silverware 

of  almost  every  description. 

Tokyo  is  headquarters  in  Japan  for  wrought  silver,  and 
we  are  the  leaders  in  the  art.     Call  and  be  convinced. 

We  know  values  and  we  give  the  stranger  the  benefit  of 
expert  advice  without  price. 


NO  TROUBLE  TO  SHO>N   Q.OO^^ 


L 


"  One  of  the  most  valuable  little  companions  that  any 
tourist  can  possibly  have." — Travel  Magazi?ie^  N,Y. 

A  SATCHEL  GUIDE 

For  the  Vacation  Tourist 
in  Europe 

Covering  the  Portions  of  Europe  Commonly 
Visited  by  Tourists 

By  W.  J.  ROLFE 

**  Itineraries  and  time  schedules,  maps,  diagrams  and 
statistical  tables  give  the  book  an  importance  for  con- 
stant consultation  that  cannot  be  exaggerated,  and  its 
heavy  leather-boarded  covers  make  it  durable  and  ser- 
viceable even  beyond  the  wont  of  books  of  its  kind." 
— Boston  D'anscript, 

"It  has  established  a  reputation  for  accuracy.'* — Nash- 
ville Banner. 

**  This  handy  little  guide-book  retains  its  popularity 
and  increases  it  from  year  to  year  on  account  of  the 
care  in  its  annual  revision;  it  is  always  strictly  UP-TO- 
DATE."— iV^ze/  York  Mail. 

"  The  book  is  *  a  compact  itinerary  of  the  British  Isles, 
Belgium  and  Holland,  Germany  and  the  Rhine,  Switzer- 
land, France,  Austria,  and  Italy,' as  is  announced  in  the 
sub-title,  but  the  fact  should  not  be  overlooked  that 
eighteen  full  pages  of  introduction  are  devoted  to  advice 
to  the  tyro  globe-trotter  which  is  most  valuable  and 
suggestive.  These  pages  deal  with  money,  clothing, 
and  baggage  for  the  trip,  the  convenience  or  necessity 
of  passports,  books  to  read,  languages  to  learn  and 
foreign  customs." — Nnu  York  limes. 

Flexible  Leather  Coz'er,    $1.1^  net^  postpaid. 
At  all  Bookstores 

BoBton        H0U0HT019    MlWETXfSk    CO.        1^«^^««^ 


SELECT  CONDUCTED  PARTIES 
IN  SPRING  AND  FALL 

AROUND  THE  WORLD  TOURS 

TOURS 

ARRANGED.  FOR  INDEPENDENT 

TRAVELERS  AND  PRIVATE 

PARTIES 


Dr.  H.  W.  Dunning  is  the  Director  of  the  Travel 
BureauoFtheJiipan  Society  anil  offers  his  informa- 
tion and  advice  to  aii  interested  in  tliose  countries 


H.W.  DUNNING  &  CO. 

14  BEACON  ST.  BOSTON,  MASS.