GIFT OF
HORACE W. CARPENTER
TNI:
TEXTILE MANUFACTURES
AND TJII-:
COSTUMES
OF
THE PEOPLE OF INDIA.
BY
J. FORBES WATSON, M.A., M.D., F.R.A.S., &c.
REPORTER ON THE PRODUCTS OF INDIA TO THE SECRETARY
OF STATE FOR INDIA IN COUNCIL.
PRINTED FOR TIIK INDIA OFFICE,
BY GEORGE EDWARD EYRE AND WILLIAM SPOTTI S WOOD E,
PRINTERS TO THE QUEEN'S MOST EXCELLENT MAJESTY.
LONDON:
1866.
CONTENTS.
INTRODUCTION:- PAGE
Collection of specimens of Indian Textile Fabrics in 20 sets each of IS volumes,
and each set containing 700 examples - 1
Distribution of this work in Great Britain and India 1
Specimens so prepared as to exhibit working samples 1
The 20 sets constitute 20 Industrial Museums 1
Have for their object the promotion of trade operations between Europe and India 1
Necessity for explanatory remarks to accompany specimens 2
Consumption of Textiles in India - 2
Present demand for British Textiles not great in India - 2
Non-production of fabrics suitable for India one cause of this 2
Information respecting the form of garment and style of ornamentation liked in
India hitherto inaccessible - ... 2
Tliis deficiency supplied by present work - 3
And further supplied by reference to India Museum 3
Necessity for observing native tastes and native wants in producing textiles for
the Indian market ... 3
Importance of a knowledge of the characteristics of Indian costume 3
Failure of attempts hitherto made to produce goods suitable for India 3, noli
Conservatism of Indian taste and fashion - 3, unit'
Large proportion of Indian garments loom-made and untouched by scissors or needle 4
The Loongee, Dhotee, Turban, and Sarce of this class — briefly described • 4
Classification of the 700 specimens — basis of 4
What this classification prominently shows - - .4
Characteristics of form and ornament very marked and important - ~,
Artistic beauty and high character of Indian ornamentation .•;
Commercial importance of the garments which leave the loom read;.' Cor V-TIU 5
The modes of wearing them illustrated by plates - ~>
They have a certain resemblance to our shawls, plaids, and scarfs .',
A smaller proportion of Indian garments made with the aid of scissors and needle <>
Piece goods used for these ------ . g
Extensive use of cotton in all forms of Indian clothing - (i
Dacca muslins, their unequalled fineness of texture (j
Size as a cause of mildew in goods exported to India (j
Indian embroidery - - - - 6
Certain fabrics better and more cheaply made by hand than by machinery 6
Certain Indian fabrics will probably be always made by hand - 6
India has advantages in the production of hand-wrought fabrics r 7
Important feature of trade between Great Britain and India 7
She sells us more than she buys from us - 7
(3428.) A 2
IV CONTENTS.
INTRODUCTION— continued. PAGE
She now sells us raw products, but she was once an exporter of Textiles 8
And may resume that position 8
Meantime labour may be profitably diverted to the development of the natural
resources of the • country - -8
Importance of the collection as illustrating the requirements of the natives of India 8
Objects of the mode of distribution of the 20 sets of Fabric Books 8
Advantages of the deposit of a certain number of sets in India - 8
Will facilitate trade operations 8
Contemplated extension of the scheme by the distribution of specimens of other
manufactures and of raw products 9
Reference to memorandum regarding the distribution in Great Britain and India of
the Collections of Specimens - 9, note.
COSTUME OF THE PEOPLE OP INDIA:-
Indian Textiles divided into two great classes — scarf-like and piece goods - 11
The past and present costume of Hindus and of Mahomedans 11
Sewing not practised before the Mahomedan invasion 11
Assimilation of the costumes of the two great races influenced by political conditions 1 1
Convenience of the made-tip garment a recommendation to its adoption by Hindus 1 1
Antipathy of Hindu women to the petticoat, bodice, and made-up garments 12
Importance, commercially, of the scarf-like form of garment 12
Skill and taste of the native weaver in decoration and manufacture 12
Scarf-like articles of attire to be considered under two heads — those worn by
males, and those by females 12
Object of this work to indicate the mode of wear, the qualities most suitable, the
patterns, &c. most likely to be acceptable to the people of India 12
LOOM-MADE ARTICLES OF MALE ATTIRE:-
I. TURBANS:—
The Turban in universal use in India - 13
Its chief function, protection from heat of sun - 13
Materials of which it is made — muslin, cotton, silk, and wool - 13
Cotton by far the most usual - 13
Silk used to some extent by the higher classes - - 13
Woollen turbans in the form of small shawls - 13
Size and shape of turban often peculiar to tribes or castes 13
Turbans of different forms or materials have different names 13
Varieties of form, &c., names, and description - - 13, note.
Reference to illustrations - - 14
Colours and ornamentation of turbans 14
All colours used - 14
White the most common 14
Dark colours relieved by embroidery - 14
Silk turban pieces of various colours - 14
Cotton turbans often printed - 14
Ornamentation artistic, beautiful, and chaste - 14
This true not of turbans only but of all Indian ornamentation 14
It marks a pure and refined taste - * 14
Dimensions of turban pieces - 14
Mode of wearing the turban - 14
CONTENTS.
LOOM-MADE GARMENTS: TUUHANS — continued. \'\,,\
The free end decorated with gold or coloured thread 4
Division (if turbans into two groups, long and square - '•>
A. TURBAN PIECES ; — Lose.
1. Cotton ; plain, liltm-linl mid inililcitclii'i! 15
Turbans shoulil not bo sized or stiffened - - 15
This also applicable to other fabrics for wear next the skin 1 .">
2. Cotton ; plain, with coloured endx 15
Increased width often made to compensate for shortness - 15
3. Cotton ; plain, with gold thread in i nifs I •"'
Of various degrees of finenc— < - - 16
Turbans of fine iiviterials are generally longer than when of coarse - 16
Good quality of gold thread necessary to stand washing, £c. 16
Combination of gold with coloured thread as ornament - 16
Fine muslin turbans of Chundeyree and Hyderabad 16
(Tall,) 16
4. Cotton ; dyed or printed - 17
Printing by hand stamping 17
Good effect produced, but not an economical mode of ornamentation 17
Use of padding in making up turbans 17
5. Cotton; dyed, coloured, or printed; gold thread in ends 17
Jeypore specimens of admirable style and quality - 17
Peculiar softness of texture in certain specimens from Rajpootana 18
Madura in Madras long celebrated for its manufactures and the
excellence of its dyes - - 18
(Tab/,') 18
6. Cotton ; dyed, coloured, or printed ; gold thread in ends, borders, Sfc. 18
Method of increasing the ornamentation of turbans of large
dimensions - -
7. Cotton ; <ti/i'<l ; (/old printed
Gold printing not applicable to fabrics requiring to be washed, or
liable to exposure to wet ... 19
Description of process - - 19
Gold printed turbans used for wear during certain festivals and
ceremonies -
8. Silk, Sfc. 20
Silk used for turbans, though not so commonly as cotton - 20
Silk and cotton better perhaps for turbans than silk alone 20
European light silks might be used as turbans if suitably
ornamented and of the proper size
B. TURBAN PIECES ; SQUARE.
The Shumla, or Shawl Turban 20
Description of Specimens
Silk and gold used to ornament these Turban pieces • 20
Silver thread, seldom used for decoration, being liable to tarnish 21
Superiority of gold to silver thread for ornament -
CONTENTS.
LOOM-MADE GARMENTS — continued.
II. LOONGEES AND DHOTEES.
Dress of the male Hindu prior to the introduction of the art of sewing
The Dhotee, often the only garment used by poor Hindus and Mahomedans
Mode of wearing it by Hindus and Mahomedans - - - -
Reference to Plates
Piece goods cut up into Loongees and Dhotees
But usually they leave the loom ready for wear - ...
The Loougee, affords great opportunity for decoration
The term Loongee — to what applied
Derivation of the term Dhotee - -
Jore, or the Loongee and Dhotee woven in one piece with a fag
between for separation
Mode of wearing the Loongee, and reference to Plates
Loongees vary in length - -
Principles observed in the decoration of Loongees and Dhotees -
The Ecputta and Doputta, or scarfs of one or two breadths
The Pitambur, or loin cloths of silk, wool, and mixtures
Arrangement of Samples in Fabric Books explained
Specimens cut and arranged so as to constitute leorkiny samples
PAGE
21
21
21
21
21
21
21
21, note.
21, note.
22, note.
22
22
22
22, note.
22, note.
22, note.
23, note.
A. LOONGEES, INCLUDING DHOTEES, WHEN MANUFACTURED TOGETHER.
1. Cotton. — Plain; coloured ends ; no borders
Simplicity of this group - ...
Material worn by the Burghers of Southern India
23
23
23
2. Cotton. — Plain ; coloured borders and ends. - 23
Examples of the Jore, or Loongee and Dhotee woven in one
piece with a fag between 23
Advantage of even a slight amount of ornamentation 23
Samples from Surat, probably of English make 23
Inappropriate embellishment a frequent fault in European goods
made for the Indian market 23
Fabrics of light open texture suitable for ordinary wear in India,
illustrated in this group - 23
(Table) ...... - 24
3. Cotton. — Plain ; silk in borders and ends. 24
Application of the Kutaree edging to the inner side' - of the
ornamental border 24
(Table) - 25
Moonga silk, probably used in imitation of gold thread. (In Table) 25
Borders of different colours, attractive if in harmony. (In Table) 25
4. Cotton. — Plain; coloured borders; gold in ends 25
Pleasing effect produced by small amount of decoration - 25
5. Cotton. — Plain ; gold and coloured cotton in borders ; gold in ends. - 26
Eeference to and description of examples - 26
6. Cotton. — Plain; gold and coloured Silk in borders; gold in end. 26
Description of example excellent in style and texture 26
CONTENTS. V
LOOM-MADE GARMENTS : — LOONC.I.I.S AND DHUTI-.KS — continued. PAGE
Stout Cotton Fabrics : —
Necessity for tliick warm fabrics for wear in India during th.'
cold season - .... 26
Demand for stout warm material of native manufacture - 26
Extract from Report of Sudder Board of Revenue to Govern-
ment of North West Provinces, 1864, on the subject - 26, note.
Suitability of British mixed cotton and woollen stuffs for
Indian consumption, if manufactured of proper lengths and
pro'perly ornamented - ... 27
7. Cotton. — Coloured thread; borders and ends formed by modifications of
pattern. - - .....27
Manufactures of the Lubbays of Madras. ... 27
Check patterns of Indian make — are they imitations or original?- 27, note.
(Table) - . 28
8. Cotton. — Coloured thread ; stripes and checks; special borders and ends. 28
Example of a desirable material ----- 28
(Table) ... 29
9. Cotton. — Coloured thread; checks and stripes; figured diaper bodi/ ;
borders and ends formed generally by modification of pattern - 29
Examples of thick materials ..... 29
The Kass, or Khes — description of, &c. - - - - 29, note.
(Table) - 30
10. Cotton — Dyed ; borders and ends printed. - 31
Description of specimens - - 31
Dark reds popular for dyed goods - - 31, note.
11. Cotton. — Coloured or dyed; silk ends; no borders. 31
Description of samples - - 31
Examples of a garment used in Kohat 31
12. Cotton. — Coloured or dyed; silk borders ; coloured cotton ends. - 31
Description of specimens from Kohat and Surat - 31
13. Cotton — Plain dyed; silk borders and ends. - - 32
Description of Samples 32
Instance in which the border is attached by sewing, and in which
each end is deeply ornamented - 32
Example of a soft material of good pattern - - 32
14. Cotton. — Check; silk borders and ends. - 32
Example of a favourite pattern in the Punjab 32
The Kutar border edge - - - 3'2
15. Cotton. — Plain dye ; cotton and silk borders; gold ends. 32
Introduction of Moonga silk in imitation of gold thread - 32
16. Cotton. — Plain dye ; gold borders and ends. - 33
Kutar edged border, stamped in black - 33
17. Silk and cotton check. - - 33
Borders and ends, a modification of the main pattern • 33
18. Silk and cotton. — Silk borders and ends. - - 33
Examples of a stout silk and cotton material 33
(Table) 33
VU1 .CONTENTS.
LOOM-MADE GARMENTS — LOONGEES AND DHOTEES — continued. PAGE
19. Silk and cotton. — Gold in borders and ends. - - 33
Rich laced pattern of borders and ends - - 33
20. Silk. — Gold borders and ends. - - 33
Examples of elaborate ornamentation in gold thread 34
Effective combination of gold thread and coloured cotton. - 34
(Table) - 34
21. Silk. — Gold and silver figured stripes. - - 35
Pattern, though stated to be suitable for a. Loongee, apparently
better adapted for Trowserings - - - 35
Bhnwulpore specimens not priced, Laving been presented by the
Nawab - - 35, note.
Prices generally given not a fair criterion of present actual value 35, note.
22. Silk. — Silver ends ; silk borders. - - 35
Description of example - - 35
23. Wool. — Variously ornamented. - 35
Striped ends - - 35
Striped borders and ends - 35
Silk borders - - 36
Silk borders and ends - - 36
Silk and silver borders - 36
(Table) . 35-36
B. DHOTEES : — SINGLE AS MANUFACTURED SEPARATELY FROM THE LOONGEE
Lavish ornamentation of the Dhotee unnecessary and unsuitable 37
Santipore specimens worthy of attention 37
Surat sample, showing the kind of article occasionally made in
England for export 37
(Table) ... 37
HI. KUMMERBUNDS.
Definition. — Waistband or Sash - - 38
Used chiefly by Mahomedans, but now forms portion of full dress of both
Hindus and Mahomedans - ... 33
Reference to Plates for mode of wearing them 38
Made of Wool in Northern India ; in other parts of cotton - 38
Ornamentation usually confined to the ends - - - - - 38
The ends afford scope for ornamentation - ... 33
Variation in the spelling of Indian terms . 38, note.
(Table) - - 38
LOOM-MADE ARTICLES OF FEMALE ATTIRE :-
I. SAREES.
The Saree the chief and frequently the only article of Female attire in India 39
The Petticoat occasionally worn in addition by the Hindus of Northern India 39
Character of the Saree varies with the station of wearer - - 39
How it is worn, and reference to Plates - 39
Way in which the Saree is made to take the place of petticoat 39
The Saree as worn by female out-door labourers ... 39
The Boorka, or sheet veil, for the Saree, worn by Mahomedan women in
Northern India - - ... 39
CONTENTS. i X
LOOM-MADE GARMENTS — SAREKS — continued. PAGE
The body garment of Burmese women 39
Materials employed I'm- Smvcs. — Cotton, cotton and silk, and silk - 40
Remarks on the use of wool for Loongees, equally applicable to Sar 40
Advantage of looseness and softness of texture in fabrics for Sarees - 40
Ornamentation of Sarces ^ovenied by the same principles as are observed in
the ornamentation of Loongees - - - 40
Terms by which the Saree is known in different parts of India - 40, noli-
\. Cotton. — Cotton borders and ends. - - 41
Example of an open textured fabric. - - 41
Striped pattern produced by undyed thread - - 41
The Kutar pattern applied to borders of Sarees. (In Table) 41
Saree used by the Burghers. (In Table) - 41
Chtuiderhora Muslin, &c. &c. (In Table) - 41
(Table) 41
2. Cotton. — (Muslin) ; Gold end. - 42
Description of specimens - - 42
Excellence of fabrics manufactured at Chundeyree (see also note) - 42
Sample of fabric for Saree chequered in the loom - 42
3. Cotton. — (Muslin) ; Coloured Cotton borders ; Coloured Cotton and (/old
in ends. - - - -
Description of sample 42
» Stripes of gold thread and red cotton 42
4. Cotton. — Silk borders ; Silk and Gold in end. - 42
Description of specimen from 'Condapore
5. Cotton. — Coloured thread ; Cotton borders. 42
Absence of special end patterns in this group
Instance of borders of different widths
(Table) - - 43
6. Cotton. — Coloured thread ; Cotton borders and ends. - 43
(Table) • 43-44
7. Cotton. — Coloured thread; border of Cotton ; Silk in end.
Deep ornamental ends
Texture of end portion closer than that of the body of the garment -
Check and stripe patterns. (In Table)
White and coloured threads used in imitation of gold and silver lace
(In Table) -
(Table) 45
8. Cotton.— Coloured thread ; Silk borders ; Silk in end. -
(Table) 46
9. Cotton.— Coloured thread; Silk borders ; Silk and gold in end.
Excellence of quality in silk borders of Sarees from Dharwar, Bombay
Desirability of rendering the weft threads in the borders invisible
through the silk warp
Description of pattern
10. Cotton Print ; printed end.
The application of dyeing ami printing to the production of orna-
mental borders and ends
Description of examples
Saree worn by Malay women
Reference to piece goods cut into lengths for use as Sarees - - 47, note
(3428.) B
x CONTEXTS.
LOOM-MADE GARMENTS. — SAEEES — continued. PACK
11. Cotton Print — Printed borders and ends. ... 48
Glazed chintz cloths, worn by Malay women. (In Table) 48
(Table) _ 4g
12. Cotton. — Dyed and printed ; Gold borders and end. - - 48
Description of sample . .43
The Kutar edging - - - ... 43
13. Cotton and Silk. — Cotton borders ; Silk ends. ... 43
Description of sample .... 43
14. Cotton and Silk. — Silk borders; Silk ends. ... 49
Border formed by modification of pattern, No. 163. (In Table) 49
(Table) ---...„ 49
15. Cotton and Silk. — Silk borders ; Silk and Gold in end. - - 49
Description of sample from Trichinopoly ... 49
White silk in border in imitation of silver lace . . 49
16. Cotton and Silk. — Gold in borders and in end. - . . 49
Description of Sarce from Tanjore, No. 162 - - 49
End of gold thread with flowers in coloured silks - - 49
17. Silk and Cotton — Silk borders. - .... 50
Fabrics in which silk predominates - - - 50
Example of fabric and pattern commonly used by the Hindus 50
Absence of ornament - - - - 50
18. Silk and Cotton. — Silk borders ; Silk and Gold in end. - - 50
Description of sample from Nagpore, Berar, No. 206 50
End of coloured silk and cotton relieved by gold thread - - 50
19. Silk and Cotton. — Gold in borders and in end. - - 50
Description of Sarce from Nagpore, Berar - 50
Gauze-like material - 50
20. Silk. — Silk borders and ends. - - 50
Description of samples, 174 and 210 - 50
Wide borders .... 50
Imitation gold and silver lace borders - 50
21. Silk. — Silk ends ; no borders. - 51
Description of specimens from Burmah. (In Table) - - 51
Peculiar angulated patterns - 51
(Table) 51
22. Silk.— Silk borders ,- Gold in end. - - 51
(Table) - 51
23. Silk. — Gold borders; Gold in end. - 52
Gauze material • 52
Partial ornamentation of the Saree - - 52
End of gold thread, with coloured silk flowers - - 52
H. KERCHIEFS FOR HEAD AND SHOULDERS.
Reference to Plates - 53
(Table) - - .... 53
CONTENTS.
PIECE GOODS.
PAGE
Conversion into apparel by the aid ot ile - . 54
Cut lengths used as scarf garments ' - - - - 54
Sewing and embroidery chiefly done by men in India - . - 54 note
MADE-UP GARMENTS.
1 IIliAD-IH.'KSSES.
Diversity of material, form, and ornament 54
The skull-cap; Cap of Bhairulpore Ilrahmins, &c. ; Taj of the
Mahomedaiisj Arak-cliin of the Sind IJrahmins ; The Col;
Sind embroidered caps ; Cashmere and Loodianah caps ; the
Topn' ; the Parser hat ; the Sindee Topee ; the cap of the
Malabar Moplas ; Fur caps (Sumbi'r-topi, ,- &,-.) ; WOol and
felt head gear ; the cap of the Guddees ; andfof the Kunyts - 54-55
Exceptional cases of caps worn by women - - - - 55
1 lead-dress of Kooloo females - - - - 55
2. — BODY GARMENTS FOR MALES.
Reference to Plates ------ 55
Garments of cotton - ..... 55
„ of coarse woollens and skins - - - 55
„ of Kincob or Brocade - - - 55
The short Hindu jacket, mode of wearing and fastening it - 55
The long coat of calico - - - - 56
Terms for Jackets, Coats, and Vests.
The Koorta, the Angurhha, AngraMia, &c., the Mina
and Angga, the Mirzaee, the Ktifcha, the Kuba or
Kaba, the Jama or Jamo, the C/tupkan, the Duglee,
and Duglo, the Ulba-Joobba, the Tubada, and the Jora
or Mahomedan dress suit 56, note
3. — THE PAEJAMA OR TROWSER - - 57
Worn by Mahomedans of both sexes - 57
Occasionally worn by Hindus - - 57
Varieties. The Izar, Turwar, Shalwar, Gurgi, &c. - 57, note
4. — THE PETTICOAT OR SKIRT - . 57
Of Mahomedan introduction into India - - 57
Now often worn by Hindu women, along with the Saree 57
Great amplitude of some skirts worn - 57, note
Varieties. The Lahangga, Luhinga, Ghagra, Peshgeer, &c, - 57, note
5. — THE BODICE.
Now almost universally worn by Hindu as well as Mahomedan
women - 58
Varieties. The Cholec, Kachuree, Kupissa, Koortec, Anggiya,
Ungia, &c. - 58, note
Mode of wearing the Bodice - 58
Reference to Plates - - 58
DACCA MUSLINS.
European Muslins at Exhibitions of 1851 and 1862 - 59
Way of determining relative fineness of different muslins, &c. - 59
Formula for determining fineness of yarn in manufactured goods - 59
B 2
Xll CONTENTS.
PIECE GOODS — continued. PAGE
Starching, its influence on estimate of fineness - - 59
Eemoval of starch, its effect on weight of muslin and estimate of
fineness - - 60
Different estimates of fineness of yarn unwoven and yarn in the
fabric - - 60
Yarns of Dacca and of European muslins ; — Computation of Nos.
made under dissimilar conditions - ... 60
Investigation into the disputed point of fineness in Dacca and
in European yarns ... 60
Adoption of microscopic test 60
Specimens submitted to examination 60
Kesults (Table) - . . 61
Deductions therefrom — in favour of fineness of Dacca muslins - 61
Examination of muslins from which the size had been removed - 62
Results (Table) ... 62
Indian yarn finer than anything yet produced in Europe - 62
Mr. Houldsworth of Manchester on fineness of muslins - - 62, note
Comparative No. of twists in given length of yarns. (Table) - 63
Description of examination - - 63, note
The amount of twist in yarn an element of durability - - 63
Why Dacca and other hand-made fabrics are more durable 63
Sea Island fibre, advantage of length, &c. - - 63, note
MANUFACTURE OF DACCA MUSLIM. QUOTATION FROM Ms.
TAYLOR'S WORK 64
Description of, reference to Plate of, &c. - 64
„ spinning 64
„ winding and preparing the yarn 66
„ warping - 67
„ applying the reed to the warp - 67
„ applying the warp to the end roll of the loom 68
„ preparing the heddles - 68
„ the loom and occupation of weaving - 68
„ bleaching, dressing, and packing - 70 to 73
Sizing. A cause of mildew in goods exported from this country 73
Rice-water usually employed in India for sizing - 73
Method of preparing the size used for the Dacca muslins 73
Per-centage of size in selected samples of native fabrics ( Table) 74
MUSLINS.
1. Fine, plain, white - 75
Excellence of productions of other places in India as well as
Dacca 75
Names given to the finer Dacca muslins 75
Dimensions of Dacca muslin pieces - 75
Arrangement of the threads - - 75
Mode of estimating value of Dacca muslin pieces 75
Demand for Dacca muslins limited of late years 75
Mulmul KJias, or King's muslin 75
Abrawan, or Running Water - - 75
Shabnam, or Evening Dew - 76
Circar Alt 76
Buddun Khas, Alaballee, $c. - - 76
Arnee muslins - 76
(Table) ---- 76
CONTENTS.
I'lKCK GOODS. — .Mrsi.l.NS — eiintinin,!. }'\<,\
2. Doonra, or striped, white.
(TaMe). . . 77
3. Cliiirlniiiii, nr i-Jiiijiiirnl, white - .... 7s
(Tabb)- . . Ts
4. Jinmlitnei', or Jii/iireil - - 7!)
The chef (fceurrc of the Indian weaver 7il
In.-tanees of costly productions of this class - 711
The iiianufacturo formerly a monopoly of the Government - 79
Description of the process of weaving 79
(Table) - - .7;,
5. Won' it with coloured thread.
Striped -~|
Checked - I (In Table) 80
Figured -J
6. Printed in colours.
(Table) - 81
7. Printed in </<ild inn! xilrer.
Reference to description of process - 81
Use of the brush in applying colour to fabrics - - 81
(Table) - 81
CALICOES.
Important position of Cotton Goods in former trade of India 82
Relative aspect of present imports and exports - 82
Increase in exports of manufactured Cottons during last 15 years 82
Fluctuation and general decrease in value of calicoes and yarns
exported to Great Britain - 82
Increased exports to other countries 82
Table, showing value of Cotton Goods exported from Indian porti-
to all parts of the world, from 1850-51 to 1864-5 - 82-3
BLEACHED AND UNBLEACHED.
Large and general consumption in India of common unbleached
fabrics - - - 83
Names by -which known in various localities ... 83
Manufacture of commoner class of calicoes, not likely to be affected
by European competition - - 83
Excellence of example from Rajahmundry, Madras 84
Attempt to determine lengths of filament - - note, 84
Punjtim Cloths and Salempores - "1 { - 84
Isree, Gurrah, Guzzce Cloths, &c. - J '' \ - - 84
(Table) - ... -84
CANVAS— COTTON.
Employed for Tents - - - ' - - 85
Extensive use of Tents in India - - - - 85
Employed for sailcloth 85
Superior qualities of India hand-made cotton sailcloth - 85
Large consumption of cotton in the manufacture of this class of goods - 85
(Table) ....... 85
XIV CONTENTS.
PIECE GOODS — continued. PAGE
COLOURED COTTON GOODS.
Samples grouped according to the intended function of the fabric 85
Purposes for which these goods are usually employed - 85
1 . Woven with coloured thread ; chiefly for trowsers.
Sousees - - 85
Examples of stout goods suitable for wear at certain periods - 86
Fabrics made by Natives to suit European wants in India - 86, note.
(Table) - - - 86
2. Woven with coloured thread; chiefly for shirts - 87
Characteristics of samples from Nepal and Pegu 87
(Table) - ..... 87
3. Woven with coloured thread ; checks and tartans for skirts, fyc.
Excellent imitations of patterns well known in this country - 88
Shepherd tartans for trowserings - 88
(Table) - - .... 88
PRINTED COTTON GOODS.
Subdivision into Prints on white and on coloured grounds - 90
Used for skirts, counterpanes, tent linings, &c., and with ends and 90
borders added, for Sarees - - 90
Good and bad qualities of the specimens of printed goods in the
collection - 90
Popularity of small, neat patterns 90
Native printed Goods, as a rule, indifferently executed - 90
Skill of the native dyer in fixing colours - 90
Importance of permanent colours in printed goods exported to India - 90
The Chetee or Chintz of Madras - - - 90
Reference to the Tables 90
1. Cotton. — Printed; white ground. (Table) - 91
2. Cotton. — Printed; coloured ground. (Table) - 92
3. Cotton — Printed; Palempores, or Bedcovers. (Table) - 94
Excellent specimens from Futtygurh. (In Table) 94
COTTON.— MISCELLANEOUS.
Pocket-handkerchiefs, Table-napkins, Towels, Doyleys and Bed-covers 95
Examples of goods manufactured to meet European requirements in
India - 95
Specimens illustrating the imitative power of the native manufacturer - 95
Example of quilting, and its use in northern districts of India - 95
Considerable quantity of raw-cotton used for quilting in India - 95
Tapes used in making bedsteads - - 95
(Table) - - 95
CONTENTS. x
PIECE GOODS — i-o>iti/in«f. PAQB
SILK.
iiiil'aeturo in Imlia lor home consumption and for export - 97
Table A. showing tin* <iuanlities and value of the M Ik -goods exported
from India to nil parts of tin- world from 1S.",()-1 to lMil-,3 - - <><)-100
Reference to Tallies with cxampl .'>oks ... 117
(1.) Silk and cotton fabric-- used for n ,,1 Choices - 97
(Table \) M)|
(2.) Mushroos. — Fabrics of Silk and Cotton, with Siiiin face and Cotton
back. Used extensively for ilivsM's, cii~h . 97
Variety and beauty of the patterns of Miir-ln • . \t~
y that they should stand washing - - 97, «,»/«.
(Table 2.) . 102
(3.) Silk fabrics — used for trowscrs, &c. - ... 97
I'm tern < noted as favourites with the Hindus and Mahoinedans - 97
(TableS.) 104
(4.) Printing on Silk ... 97
Mode of producing the peculiar spotted patterns used by the
Parsees, and the ditlieulty of imitating them by machinery - 97
(Tablet.) 106
Gauze used for inosijuiio em -i gg
I >i'scription of sample in silk - gg
Cotton net generally used - gg
Net- ••xported from Europe applied to this purpose - - 98
WILD SILKS.
Examples of Fabrics of Moonga, Eria, und Tussur silk ( Table) - - 107
MOONGA. Its superiority for mixed fabrics, and for embroidery - - 106
Mixed fabrics of cotton and Moonga silk - ... 106
Moonga Silk manufactures of Dacca - 106
Mode of preparing the silk for use in the loom - - - 106
Variety, names, character, &c. of Cloths of Cotton and Moonga SUk
made at Dacca, and places to which exported - - - 106
EBIA SILK. Durable, but defective in lustre ... 107
Tussuit SILK. Buchanan's description of its preparation and manufacture in
Bhagulpore - - . - 107
Varieties of patterns in Tussur goods from Bhagulpore - - 108
LOOM EMBROIDERY,— GOLD AND SILVER.
Gold and silver thread employed in the loom to decorate piece-goods 109
(1.) Ornamentation confined to the introduction of borders ... 109
(2.) Gold and silver used in body of silk fabric to produce striped patterns 109
(3.) Gold-figured .Mushroos- . . . 109
(4.) Kincobs- - - - . - 109
Beauty and variety of the patterns produced in India Inadequately indicated
by the examples given in the books - - - - 109
Reference to India Museum for further illustrations ... 109
Description by Capt. Meadows Taylor of the processes employed in the
manufacture and flattening of Gold and Silver wire, &c. - - 109
(Table) - - . - 111
XVI CONTENTS.
PIECE GOODS — continued. PAGE
GOLD AND SILVEE TISSUES.
The Wire in its flattened state used to produce these - 113
Fabrics so made employed for sashes, mantles, for marriage garments, &c. - 113
Examples of Gold and Silver Cloth, &c. (Table) 113
GOLD AND SILVER LACE.
Places of manufacture 113
Quality of the metal used, &c. &c. - - 113
HAND EMBROIDERY.
Native skill and taste displayed in embroidery - 114
Probable future importance of embroidered fabrics as articles of Indian export 114
General application of embroidery to the ornamentation of fabrics - 114
Dacca and Delhi Embroideries - - 114
Introduction of the art into Bengal from the banks of the Euphrates 114
Description of the embroidery frame, &c. - 114
KINDS OF EMBROIDERY.
(1.) With Cotton. (Chikan) '} (Table) 115
(2.) With Moonga Silk, &c. (Kashida) /
(3) With Gold, Silver, Tinsel, and Beetle Wings. (Table) 116
(4.) With Silk on Cloth - 116
Mode of preparing the design for embroidery, &c. 116
Kinds of Silk and of Gold and Silver thread used for embroidering at
Dacca ... . . . U7
LACE.
Capability of India to produce, &c. 117
Reference to specimens from Tinnevelly - - 111, note.
WOOL.
Classification adopted - 118
CASHMERE SHAWLS.
Reference to Plate showing mode of wearing them in India 118
Their importance to India as articles of export - 118
Table showing the quantities and value of the Cashmere shawls
exported from 1850-1 to 1864-5 - - 119, 120
The term "Cashmere" applied to shawls manufactured in India - 121
Report of Lahore Central Committee for the Exhibition of 1862, on shawl
manufacture in the Punjab, and on the wool employed 121
Now the most important manufacture in the Punjab 121
Immigration of Cashmere weavers into the Punjab - 121
Shawls of Punjab make still inferior to those of Cashmere - 121
CONTKNTS. xvii
i.i i \ GOODS — I'liiitiinii'd. I'AGE
Superiority of the wool ami tin- dye-: used in Cashmere - - IL'1
I'niee-s of cleaiiini: llie wool - 121
Division of shawls into ir/iri // and it-m-hnt ,-hawls - 121
Cost in Cashmere of •woven shawls - - 1'Jl
Adulteration of the wool nsed in the Punjab - IL'1
Proposed trade-marks as L'unrai! -t deception - 121
Description of the kinds of wool used in the manufacture of
shawls and other fabrics - - 122
Extract from Report on Cashmere Shawls by Committee for the Kxhi-
bition of 1851 - 122
Description of the principal articles manufactured of >haw 1-wool : —
(1.) ]>iixliiill(ix, i.ir Long Shawls - - - 123
(2.) A'w.s'Wwx, or So nary Shawls - 123
(3.) Jtmii'trtirs, or Striped Shawls - 121
(4.) Ulu-iin, or plain shawl-wool cloth 124
Description by Moorcroft of the shawl manufacture in Cashmere, tin-
chief articles made, their prices, &c., &c. 124
Moorcroft's description of the wool of the domestic and wild ;:<>a-
Ladakh, and of the process of picking the shawl-wool from the fleece - 132
CASHMERE CLOTH AND WOOL FOR SHAWLS.
Reference to the examples of Cashmere shawl cloths in the collection - 134
(Table) 134
Patterns show simply the material and the character of the fabric in
its worked state - - 134
Peculiar pleasant softness of fabric liable to be affected by profuse
decoration - 134
Question of the superiority of the wool of the shawl-goat to that of
other animals considered -
PUTTOO ; CAMELS' HAIR CLOTH, &c.
Material of which Puttoo is made - I-*.")
Chogas of this fabric
Reference to Plate showing Chogas
Their ornamentation by means of the needle — Plate
(Table} ... 135
SULUNG, OR KERSEYMERE-LIKE CLOTHS.
Harsh texture as compared with Put ton -
Occasionally used for Chogas
Puttoo and Sulung cloths probably capable of being produced from the
wool or hair of the same animal
(Table) - - 136
(3428.)
xVlli CONTENTS.
WOOLLEN GOODS — continued. PAGE
CAMEL HAIR . . - 136
Its extensive use in Russia - - . 135
Imports from the Levant for the Bradford and Leicester trade - 136
Remarks by Captain T. Button — the wool of the Bactrian camel - 137
TAE HAIR, its use, &c. - - - - - 138
CUMBLEES OR BLANKETS, &C.
(1.) Thick; of soft texture. (In Table) - - 139
(2.) Thick ; of harsh texture. (In Table) - - - - 139
(3.) Thin ; of harsh, close texture. (In Table) . 139
(4.) Wool and hair mixed. (In Table) - - 139
STRIPED WOOLLENS.
Patterns in vogue in Sikkim, Nepal, and Thibet - - - 139
Mode of wearing ; similarity to Scotch kilt. (Plate) - - - 139
Reference to Plate showing other ways of wearing woollen garments - 139
(Table) 140
FELTS.
Uses for clothing, &c. - - 140
Method of ornamenting with coloured wool - - - 140
Manufacture of felts : description by Major H. B. Lumsden - 140
(Table) - - - •* - . . . . . - 141
CARPETS AND RUGS.
Indian Carpet designs afford examples of taste of the highest order - - 142
Probable future commercial importance to India - 142
General use in eastern countries of mats, rugs, or carpets - - 142
Places of manufacture in India - - - - 142
Attempted introduction of European designs into carpets and rugs of Indian
manufacture, and its result - - 142-143
Description of the five divisions into which, according to their manufacture,
Native carpets and rugs have been divided - ... 143
Examples showing kind of carpet fabric suitable for the European market - 143
Silk carpets, their richness and beauty - - 144
Reference to Plates illustrating patterns of Indian carpets and rugs - 143, 144
(Tablc\ - ... ... 142
CONTENTS. XIX
PAGE
FABRICS FROM ( KNTRAL ASIA AND RUSSIA.
Rrusons for including those in the Collection - 145
Possibility of production in India 145
Source whence specimens wen- nl it. 'lined, &c., £c., £c. - - 145
Table of samples from Hoklutra, Mcs/inf, Ifirrrf, Yc:d, Balk, Kaftan, and
ru. ....... - 146-7-8
APPENDIX.
Memorandum regarding the distribution in Britain and India of the
collections of specimens ... - 149
LIST OF SAMPLES i.\ FABHIC BOOKS.
Contents of Vols. I., II., HI., IV., V., VI., VII., VHL, IX., X., XI.,
XII., XIII., XIV., XV., XVI., XVH., and XVTH. - 153 to 170
TABLE SHOWING PLACES OF .VAXI-FACTURE OR MARTS FROM WHICH
THE SPECIMENS WERE OBTAINED 171
TABLE SHOWING wnzjiE THE DIFFERENT SAMPLES IN THE FABRIC
BOOKS ARE REFERRED TO IN THIS WORK - 172, 173
c 2
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
No. of
Description.
Plate.
Figure.
Turbans.— Plain and Coloured.
•
1
Plain red Turban. From a photograph.
"Pinto
2
Plain red Turban. From a photograph.
1 1, 1 M
T
3
Plain red Turbuu (twisted folds). From a photograph by Shepherd and Robertson.
JL.
"Ffif'i n o* <
4
Group showing white Turbans. The standing figure shows the short Hindu Jacket with the
i ii< i n _ >
T^I (TP
long sleeve, and the Dhotee. From a photograph by Shepherd and Robertson.
page
14
5
Large white turban. (Hindu). From a photograph by Dr. Simpson.
6
Plain white turban. (Sikh). From a photograph by Dr. Simpson.
-
7
Large yellow turban. (Jat). From a photograph by J. C. A. Dannenberg.
Turbans. — Ornamented, &c.
8
Large purple Turban. (Hindu). From a photograph.
Plato
9
Turban (printed). Ends pendulous, and with gold thread introduced. (Mussulman).
II.
10
Red Turban. Folds exposed to view ; gold-embroidered in loom. (Brahmin). From photograph.
facin0* <?
11
Group showing white Turbans, ornamented with gold. (Mahometans). From a photograph by
x£*vl"e ^
riflCTp
Shepherd and Robertson.
J^aev
18
12
Small Cashmere shawl Turban. From a photograph by J. C. A. Danuenberg.
13
Parsee Turban or Topee. From a photograph by Dr. Simpson.
L
J4
Embroidered Skull-cap. (Rajput). From a photograph by Dr. Simpson.
Male Attire. — Cotton.
15
Dhotee or loin-cloth. From a photograph by R. H. De Montgomery.
16
Demand at its minimum. From a photograph by Shepherd and Robertson.
17
Shows Loongee or shoulder-scarf, and the Paejama or trowser. (Brahmin). Photograph by
Plate
W. Griggs, from water-colour drawing
III.
18
Group showing the Hindu mode of wearing the Dhotee. The figure to the right shows the
facing <
short quilted Jacket with long sleeve (Hindu). From a photograph by Shepherd and Robertson.
O
page
19
Dhotee with small Loougee or shoulder-scarf. Photograph by W. Griggs, from water-colour
22
drawing by E. Bergerhaus.
20
Mussulman Coat of medium length with wide trowsers. (Afghan group). From a photograph by
Dr. Simpson.
21
Long Hindu Coat. From a photograph.
Male Attire.— Cotton and Silk.
22
Loongee and Dhotee with ornamental borders and ends. From a coloured photograph.
Plate
~nr
23
Loongee and Dhotee with ornamental borders and ends. From a coloured photograph.
f J
24
Loongee with ornamental borders and ends. Worn over a frock or coat reaching to the knee — in
lacing <
common use amongst Mussulmans. Photograph of water-colour drawing by E. Bergerhaus.
page
25
Loongee worn over a coat of a shape like the last. This and the preceding figure afford good
32
illustrations of a common form of the Trowser. Photograph by W. Griggs from water-colour
drawing by E. Bergerhaus.
Female Attire. — Cotton, &c.
r
26
Head-cloth, Choice or bodice, and Petticoat.
i
|
27
The Saree (Hindu). From a photograph, by Johnson, of women employed on the railway near
Bombay.
28
Head-kerchief, Jacket, and Saree. From a Photograph.
Plate
29
Saree. Jacket and Petticoat.
V.
30
Saree. The two figures to the left show the loose Mahomedan Trowser, and the one to the right the
facing <
narrow form. From a photograph by Lieut. Tanner.
page
31
Saree over Petticoat. (Dancing girl, Sind). From a photograph by Captain Houghton.
40
32
Jacket and Petticoat. (Kaugra). Photograph, by W. Griggs, from water-colour drawing by Lieut.
J. Macdonald.
33
Shows Choice or bodice with short sleeve.
34
Saree with deep ornamental end. Photograph from an imperfect water-colour drawing on talc.
Female Attire. — Muslins, Silk, &c.
,
35
Begum of Bhopal and Shah Jehan in Mahratta costume. From a photograph.
36
Begum of Bhopal in state costume, wearing collar and star of the Order of India.
Plate
37
Brahmin Laiiy, wearing Saree as the entire dress. From a photograph by W. Johnson.
VI.
38
Saree and Petticoat. From a photograph.
facing
39
Jacket with long sleeves, and Petticoat. From a photograph.
Pa^e
40
Saree. From a photograph by J. C. A. Dannenberg.
-*• * Gv
50
41
Saree with Cashmere Shawl. From a photograph by J. C. A. Dannenberg.
42
Saree. (Hindu widow, Saharuiipore). From a photograph by J. C. A. Dannenberg.
\\1
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS— cmt.
No. of
Plate. Figure.
Description.
Plate
VII. ,
lacing •'
page
Plate
viii. !
facing <(
page
lls.
Plate I
IX. |
facing )
page |
136. J
Male Attire. — Woollens and Skins.
43 Rough felt material. (Hoogtee, Sind). From a photograph by Lieut. Tanner.
41 Coat and Kilt attached. (IShootia group). From a photograph by Dr. Simpson.
4.J Large sheep's skin Cloak. (Sindi. From a photograph by Lieut Tannrr.
Si; Rough woollen Plaid. (IJehar). From a photograph by Dr. simp
-t~ Koiiirh woollen I'laid. (liehar). From a photograph by Dr. Simpson.
is Woollen Coat. (Kumaon). From a photograph.
I!) Frit Cloak, worn over brail and >houldrrs. (Nepal). From a photograph by Dr. Simpson.
."() Sheep's skin Coat. (Sind). From a photograph by Lieut. Tanner.
Male Attire. — Cashmere Shawls, Chogas, &c.
51 Cashmere Shawl and purple Cho
ol' Ca>hmere Shawl and Choga of Kincob.
.",:; i ::-hmere Shawl and gold-embroidered Choga.
.U Embroidered Cashmere and Kincob Chogas. From a photograph by Shcplierd and Robertson.
55 Embroidered Choira of 1'nttoo. with Kummerbund or Sash. From a photograph by Lieut. Tanner.
.'if! Embroidered Chogas of 1'uttoo. From a photograph by Lieut. Tanner.
."7 Choga with Kiimmerbund. From a photograph by Lieut. Tanner.
Xon-:. — The foreaoing illustrations have been mainly selected from the extensive scries of photographs of
the " People of India," as reproduced in the Department. The grouping and arrangement of the different
subjects is by the Author. Their photographic reproduction is by W. Griggs, and the colouring of the
copies, designed more perfectly to illustrate the costumes of the people, has been done under the Author's
directions by II. Wills ancIJ. r'olex .
Ornamental Braiding on Choga of Cashmere Cloth.
From a photograph by W. Griggs.
Plate 1
X. |
i'aeing s
—
Cotton Carpet.
page |
144. J
From Wurrungul, Dcccan. Photo, and Chromo-lithograph by W.
Griggs.
Plate "I
XL
Carpets and Rugs.
follows
1
Carpet, from Wurrungul, Dcccan. Photo-lithograph by W. Griggs.
I'l.X. ]>
2
Carpet, from do. do. Photo-lithograph by W. Griggs.
facing
3
Rug, from Multnn. Photo-lithograph by W. Gi
page
144. J
4
I.1 ug, from do. Photo-lithograph by W. Grigg-.
Processes in the Manufacture of Dacca Muslins.
r
1
Spinning fine Yarn.
Plate
2
Warping.
A.
3
Reeling Yarn from Reed.
(XII.),'
4
Applying the Reed to the Warp.
facing J
~>
Weaving.
page
6
Forming the Ileddles.
64
7
Steaming Cloths during the Process of Bleaching.
L
8
Arranging displaced Threads in Cloth.
r
THE
TEXTILE MANUFACTURES AND COSTUMES
OF THE
PEOPLE OE INDIA.
INTRODUCTION.
SPECIMENS of all the important Textile Manufactures of India existing in the
stores of the India Museum have been collected in eighteen large volumes, of which
twenty sets have been prepared, each set being, as nearly as possible, an exact counter-
part of all the others. The eighteen volumes, forming one set, contain 700 specimens,
illustrating, in a complete and convenient manner, this branch of Indian Manufactures.
The twenty sets are to be distributed in Great Britain and India — tliirteen in the-
former and seven in the latter — so that there will be twenty places, each provided
with a collection exactly like all the others, and so arranged as to admit of the
interchange of references when desired.
Each sample has been prepared in such a way as to indicate the character of the
whole piece from which it was cut, and thus enable the manufacturer to reproduce
the article if he wishes to do so. In other words, the eighteen volumes contain
700 working samples or specimens.
The twenty sets of volumes may thus be regarded as Twenty Industrial
Museums, illustrating the Textile Manufactures of India, and promoting trade
operations between the East and West, in so far as these are concerned.
2
TEXTILE MANUFACTURES OP INDIA.
To make this series of Museums, however, accomplish more fully and properly
the end in view, it was felt that something was needed beyond the mere bringing
together of specimens, and this something the present volume is intended to supply.
The interests of the people in India, as well as those of the people at Home, are
concerned in this matter, and loth interests must be considered. Our remarks in
the first instance, however, will apply more particularly to the latter.
About two hundred millions of souls form the population of what we commonly
speak of as India ; and, scant though the garments of the vast majority may be, an
order to clothe them all would try the resources of the greatest manufacturing nation
on earth. It is clear, therefore, that India is in a position to become a magnificent
customer. She may still be this, and yet continue to seek her supplies in part
from herself; for to clothe but a mere per-centage of such a vast population would
double the looms of Lancashire.
1
This is what might and may be ; but that which is, is greatly otherwise, for,
in point of fact, India buys but sparingly of our manufactures.
Many things probably combine to bring about this result, and it is not our
purpose here to inquire into them all. But there are some which are important
and apparent, and to these allusion should be made.
If we attempt to induce an individual or a nation to become a customer, we
endeavour to make the articles which we know to be liked and needed, and these we
offer for sale. We do not make an effort to impose on others our own tastes and
needs, but we produce what will please the customer and what he wants. The British
manufacturer follows this rule generally ; but he seems to have failed to do so in the
case of India, or to have done it with so little success, that it would almost appear
as if he were incapable of appreciating Oriental tastes and habits.
There are probably few things beyond the understanding of our manu-
facturers, but it will be admitted that some education in the matter is necessary,
and that without it the value of certain characteristics of Indian ornament
and form will not be properly realized. This supposes the means of such
education to be readily accessible, which hitherto has not been the case, simply
because manufacturers have not known with any certainty what goods were
1 NTUODUCTION. 3
suitable.* To attain to skill in nuvtinii Kastern tastes and Kastern wants will
require study and much consideration even when the means of study are supplied ;
but up to the present time the manufacturer has had no ready opportunity of
acquiring a full and correct knowledge of what was wanted.
The deficiency here alluded to will, we believe, be supplied by these local
Museums, and the object of the present work is to give further aid to those
who consult them. If the manufacturer should still encounter difficulties, when
exceptional points are in question, these can be got over by reference to the parent
and more elaborate collection in the India Museum ; and there also full informa-
tion on doubtful matters can be obtained. In fact, it is but reasonable to expect
that this will occasionally be necessary.
The 700 specimens (and we again point out that they are all what is called
working samples) show what the people of India affect and deem suitable in the
way of textile fabrics, and if the supply of these is to come from Britain, they
must be imitated there. What is wanted, and what is to be copied to meet
that want, is thus accessible for study in these Museums.
*
It was thought, however, that something more than mere specimens was needed
to enable the manufacturer to do this intelligibly. It was necessary that he
should know* how the garment was worn, by which sex, and for what purpose
— how, in short, the people were clothed, as well as the qualities of the fabrics
they used. It was further necessary that he should know why certain arrange-
ments of ornamentation were adopted, as well as the styles of ornamentation
and the materials employed.f Information on these points, and on many other
similar ones, the present volume is also intended to supply.
* Wo are quite aware of the efforts which of late years have been made, more particularly by Glasgow
and Manchester, to manufacture Sarecs and some similar loom-made articles of clothing ; the result, however,
has been insignificant when we remember the extent of the consumption of such articles.
t The steadiness of Indian taste and fashion is a point to which the manufacturers' attention should be
directed. Among the people of India there is not that constant desire for change in the material and style
of their costume which is so noticeable in Europe. Some patterns which are now favourites, have been so for
centuries, and certain articles of dress were ages ago very much what they now are. It is not, however, • to be
understood from this that new styles of ornamentation have not been occasionally introduced by the native
manufacturer in recent times. What this note is intended to convey is simply that there is a much greater
fixity of fashion in India than in Europe, and it is not necessary to point out that this has a very direct bearing
on the operations of trade.
(3428.) D
TEXTILE MANUFACTURES OF INDIA.
It is shown that a very large proportion of the clothing of the people of
India, whether Hindu or Mahomedan, consists of articles which are untouched by
needle or scissors. . These articles leave the loom in a state ready to be worn, and
have their analogues in our Shawls, Plaids, and Scarfs. The principal of these
are the Turbans, Loongees, and Dhotees worn by men, and the Sarees worn by
women.
The Dhotee is nothing but a scarf folded round the loins and brought up
between the legs, and this constitutes the whole clothing of a large number of
the lower and poorer classes. The Loongee, again, is a similar but larger scarf
or plaid, worn over the shoulders and upper part of the body. The Turban is a
longer and narrower scarf, which is folded round the head to form a head-dress.
The Saree, or woman's plaid, is used to cover both the body and the head.
Loongees, Dhotees, Sarees, and Turbans have each different functions, and the
quality of the fabric must fulfil these ; they have appropriate lengths and breadths,
and these must be considered ; they have suitable modes or styles of ornamen-
tation, and these too must be kept in view.
In order to enable. the manufacturer to do this easily and successfully, the 700
specimens have in the present work been arranged in groups — thus Turbans have
been considered separately, and then Loongees, and so on. These large groups
have been again subdivided, and the basis of this subdivision has been the quality
of the body of the garment, the material of which it is made, the mode of
ornamentation, &c. Thus Loongees made of cotton are not associated with those
made of silk ; nor are those in which gold thread is used for their decoration
conjoined with those in which coloured cotton or silk is so employed.
This work, therefore, may be regarded as an analysis of the contents of
the eighteen volumes, and a classification of them according to function, quality,
material, and decoration.
Many important facts stand saliently out as the result of this analysis ; such,
for instance, as that by far the larger proportion of the clothing of the people of
India is made of cotton ; that there are certain colours or tones of colour which
are favourites ; that gold is largely used in the ornamentation of all sorts of
fabrics — cotton as well as silk ; and that in the decoration of every garment regard
is always had to the special purpose which that garment is intended to fulfil.
INTRODUCTION. 5
Indeed, the modes of ornamentation ;uv so peculiar and so characteristic,
that it Avill often be found that nothing beyond a diH'erence in this respect
separates one group from another. Too much attention cannot be given to this
point. A piece of cloth may be offered for sale Avhose length and breadth and
quality may fit it admirably for a Turban or a Loongee, yet it may prove utterly
unsaleable because its decoration is unsuitable and injures its usefulness; or because
it is not in good taste from the Indian's point of view ; or, farther, because
its colours are not fast and will not admit of the constant and rough washing to
which his clothing is subjected.
It must not be thought that the Taste of India takes delight in what is
gaudy and glaring.
No one will study the contents of these volumes and come to that con-
clusion. On the contrary, there will be found there good evidence that Indian
taste in decoration is, in the highest degree, refined. Such combinations of form
and colour as many of these specimens exhibit everyone will call beautiful ; and
this beauty has one constant feature — a quietness and harmony which never fail
to fascinate. This also can be said of it — there is no waste of ornamentation,
which is present where it should be, and absent where it should not be. The
portions which are concealed when the garment is on the wearer are rarely
decorated ; nor is there any of that lavish expenditure of ornament which
so often purchases show at the expense of comfort. It is in obedience to
this principle that the decoration of these loom-made garments is nearly
always confined to one or both ends, or to one or both borders, according to
circumstances.
We trust that the importance of this class of Indian garments has been
made as clear as it should be. We refer to those garments which leave the
loom ready for wear — the Turbans, Loongees, Dhotees, and Sarees, which bear a
certain resemblance to our Shawls, Plaids, and Scarfs, though they by no means
serve the same purposes. The photographs interspersed throughout the work
illustrate fully the various modes of wearing them. It cannot be too often
repeated that they constitute a large portion of the whole clothing of the people ;
D 2
6
TEXTILE MANUFACTURES OF INDIA.
and it is clear that the nation which desires to supply that clothing can only
be successful in doing so by offering garments of this character for sale.
But while they constitute a large portion they by no means constitute the
whole. In all times — past and present — Mahomedans have worn vestments made
out of Piece-goods by the aid of scissors and needles, and Hindus have been long
and increasingly following them in this respect. Jackets, Coats, and Trousers
are worn by men ; and Bodices, Trousers, and Skirts or Petticoats, by women.
These are not made as they are with us in Europe, but, nevertheless, they may
appropriately enough go by these names.
Many of the photographs are inserted to show the various styles of these
vestments, and the volumes contain numerous specimens of the piece-goods out of
which they are made.
Like the loom-made garments, these also consist chiefly of cotton, and
among them appear the beautiful muslins of Dacca. These are so exquisitely fine
that we have dwelt at considerable length on the mode of their manufacture, and on
the question of comparative fineness as raised between them and the most delicate
muslins hitherto produced in Europe. A careful consideration of all the evidence
which has yet been brought to bear on this question leads clearly to the conclusion,
that the weavers of Dacca can and do produce a fabric which, for fineness, as
well as for all other good qualities, has nowhere been equalled. While on
this subject we have taken occasion to speak of the character and extent of
Sizing used by the native weaver. This is a point of great practical importance,
as it has been thought, and probably correctly so, that the Size used by the
British manufacturer is often the cause of that mildewing which is so destructive
to the cotton goods sent from this country to India.
Among the piece-goods also occur a number of specimens of the loom-made
Brocades and of the Hand-Embroideries of India. There may be little hope of
Europe ever being able to make these cheaper than India herself can ; but, as a
mere lesson in taste, the study of them may prove useful to the Home manufacturer.*
* Those who may wish to acquire an extended knowledge of the variety and beauty of these exquisite pro-
ductions will have to consult the Collection at the India Museum as now attached to the Department of the
Eeporter on the Products of India.
INTRODUCTION. 7
This leads us to remark that there are certain fabrics which will probably always
be best, and most cheaply manufactured by hand. It is found to be so even in
this country, where the powers of machinery have been pushed to their utmost.
The hand-loom weaver still exists amongst us, nor is it likely that lie will ev r
cease to do so. Less likely still is it that machinery will ever be able to drive
him from the field in India. The very fine and the richly decorated fabrics of
that country will probably always require the delicate manipulation of human
fingers for their production.
In such manufactures the foremost place will be taken by that country which
can most cheaply supply labour, intelligence, and refined taste — all three combined.
This being the case, it is not probable that England will ever be able to compete
successfully with the native manufacturer in the production of fabrics of this sort.
The reverse, indeed, is in every sense probable, and the native looms will continue
to yield the Embroideries, the Shawls, and the Carpets, for which they are already
so famous. They will continue to do this for the customer in India, and it is
quite possible, when the beauty of some of their productions is better known and
appreciated, that they will find profitable customers in the far West as well.
Such a hope is not without something to rest on, and it may be the sooner'
realized now that these collections have been made.
In the meantime the British manufacturer must not look for his customers
to the upper ten millions of India, but to the hundreds of millions in the
lower grades. The plainer and cheaper stuff's of cotton, or of cotton and
wool together, are those which he has the best chance of selling, and those which
he would be able to sell largely, if in their manufacture he would keep well in
view the requirements and tastes of the people' to whom he offers them.
This naturally brings us to the more special consideration of the manner
in which the interests of India are concerned in the matter.
We know India now-a-days as a country whose Raw Products we largely
receive. We pay for these partly in kind and partly in money ; but India never
buys from us what will repay our purchases from her, and the consequence is
that we have always to send out the large difference in bullion, which never
comes back to us, disappearing there as if it had been dropped into the ocean.
TEXTILE MANUFACTURES OF INDIA.
We buy her Cotton, Indigo, Coffee, and Spices ; and we sell her what we can in the
shape of Textile and other Manufactures. It must not be forgotten, however, that
there was a time when India supplied us largely with Textiles. It was she who
sent us the famous Longcloths, and the very term Calico is derived from Calicut
where they were made. She may never resume her position as an exporting
manufacturer of goods of this sort, — though what the extension of the mill-system
in India may eventually lead to it is difficult to say, and her friends would
most unwillingly see its development fettered by restrictions of any sort. This
is clear, however, that it will be a benefit to the masses of the people of India to
be supplied with their clothing at the cheapest possible rate — let this be done by
whom it may. If Great Britain can give Loongees, Dhotees, Sarees, and Calicoes
to India which cost less than those made by her own weavers, both countries will be
benefited. In a great productive country like India it is certain that she will gain ;
for if supplies from Britain set labour free there, it will only be to divert it at
once into other and perhaps more profitable channels. It might be otherwise if
India were not a country whose strength in raw products is great and far from
developed ; but as it is, her resources in this direction are known to be capable
of a vast expansion and to be sufficient to occupy the energies of her whole
people.
The machinery and skill of Britain may thus do a present service to India,
by supplying her with material for clothing her people at a cheap rate — an end to
which these collections must certainly lead by showing the home manufacturer
what hV is that the natives require. But they may also show that certain fabrics
can be produced at a lower cost than in Europe, and make India both buy
and sell her textiles. Those which she would offer for sale would in all
probability be her Carpets and Embroideries, which, as already stated, can be
made by hand with a greater perfection and beauty than by any machinery
hitherto invented.
There are other reasons which make it desirable that a few of these twenty
sets should be placed in India. For instance, as each set is a copy of all the
others, they may prove useful vn. facilitating trade operations. They will enable the
agent in India to refer the merchant or the manufacturer at home to a certain
specimen, and ask him to produce an article as like it as possible, or with such
alterations as he may see fit to suggest. And so, in like manner, they may enable
the merchant of one part of India to deal with the merchant of another, when,
INTKODl CTIOX. '•>
through an examination of these volumes, lie learns that an article is made
there which will suit his customers. This aspect of their usefulness gives these
collections a title to be called Trad- M HM-U-IHX in a fuller and broader sense than
belongs to any which have yet been established.
It is not desirable, however, that the xctn'inr should stop with the textile manu-
factures. It is hoped, indeed, that it may yet be greatly extended and in various
directions, to the advantage alike of Britain and of India, whose common interest
it certainly is in every way to cultivate intimate commercial relations. A lar^e
amount of information has been drawn together regarding all classes of Indian
manufactures and -of Indian products, and it is clearly of immense advantage to this
country and to India that this knowledge should be so disseminated as to prove
pi-dftico.Uy useful — in other words, so as to influence directly the interchange of
commodities. No way, we think, could so effectually accomplish this as the one
which, with the sanction and support of the Secretary of State for India in
Council, has been chosen in the case of the Textile Manufactures ; and it is
satisfactory to know that the resources of the Department would enable future
efforts in the same direction, having regard to other manufactures or products, to
be made with less labour and with increased economy.
NOTE. — A Memorandum, submitted to the India Office, regarding the distribution in
Britain and India of the Collections of Specimens, to which this work forms the key, — the
enumeration of the places in this- country where they have been deposited, and the statement
of the conditions attached to the gift by the Secretary of State for India in Council, will be
found in an Appendix at p. 149-
COSTUME OF THE PEOPLE OF INDIA.
IT will be convenient to consider the Textile Manufactures of India as divided into two
classes : — the first comprehending the various scarf or plaid-like articles of dress which leave
the loom ready for wear, and the second consisting of piece goods for the conversion of
which into clothing the scissors and needle are required.
It would appear that before the invasion of India by the Mahomedans, the art of sewing
was not practised there.*
Anterior to that period, therefore, it is probable that nearly the whole clothing of the
people consisted of loom-made articles coming strictly under the first head.
Strict Hindus may yet be found to whom a garment composed of several pieces sewn
together is an abomination and defilement. Throughout India generally, however, they have
now begun to wear various made-up articles of dress such as were formerly used only by
the Mahomedans.
On the other hand, the Mahomedans of our day frequently content themselves with the
simpler covering which is more peculiarly the dress of the Hindu.
This partial assimilation of the costumes of the two great races of India has been brought
about in various ways. For instance, under the old Mahomedan rule, Hindu men of rank
in the employment of the Government were obliged to present themselves on state occasions
dressed in the same fashion as their conquerors. The element of compulsion in this was
at first distasteful. The innovation was accordingly resisted, and on their return to their
homes they discarded the costume they had been forced to assume, and reverted to that to
which they had been accustomed, and which they regarded as belonging to their race. Indeed,
the wearing of the Mahomedan costume would at first be looked on as an emblem of defeat
and vassalage, and a despotic interference with customs almost sacred from their age. It
must be/ remembered, however, that this change of costume was only imposed upon those
who were in office under the new rule — on those, in short, who were placed in some sort
of authoritv ; and hence, in course of time, the change of costume came to be regarded as
an evidence of power in those who adopted it, and to be valued accordingly. It is not
difficult to see how this would bring the matter eventually within the influence of fashion,
which has its rule in India as elsewhere. The new costume, in fact, became an evidence that
its wearer occupied a position of more or less importance, and this reconciled him to a change
which pride of custom and religious feeling would have led him to resist.
* Buchanan, in Montgomery Martin's " Eastern India," Vol. II., p. 699.
(3428.) £
12 COSTUME OP PEOPLE OP INDIA :
Of course this reconciliation was the more readily accomplished, because the made-up
articles of dress were after trial found to be convenient and suitable to the climate. Nor
was there anything in the style of the new costume to make a Hindu desire to discontinue
its use after he had once got accustomed to it, whilst there was much to recommend it.
As regards the Hindu women, however, for a long period they scrupulously adhered on all
occasions to their native costume. Indeed, even yet the petticoat is not regarded as a
legitimate garment ; and in some parts of the country in which it is used, women of rank,
when they eat, cook, or pray, lay it aside and retain only their under wrapper which has been
made without the use of scissors or needle.* In a few districts also, even to the present day,
the bosom is left uncovered by respectable women : — the use of the Choice, or bodice, being
reserved for the impure.
There was thus a tendency, in the first instance, to resist the adoption of those new forms
of costume which necessitated the use of the needle, and this tendency cannot yet be regarded
as altogether extinct. But though the great bulk of the articles of clothing worn by the
native population of India still consists of scarfs, or of simple pieces of cloth of dimensions
suited to the purposes which they are intended to fulfil, a considerable quantity of textile
materials is now made up into various convenient forms of dress, such as coats and jackets
for men, and skirts and bodices for women — alike among Hindus and Mahomedans.
The class of plaid or scarf-like articles of dress, as a speciality of Oriental costume,
assumes a position as regards extent which in Europe we do not easily understand. It
constitutes by far the larger proportion of the textiles used for clothing, and is, therefore,
the most important and the one most worthy of attention, especially from a commercial point
of mew. It is, moreover, the class which has given scope for the introduction of those forms
of decoration, which so admirably display the powers of the native weaver in producing
beautiful combinations of form and colour, and in arranging these in the way best calculated
to set-off and adorn the garment when it is looked at on the person of the wearer.
The articles of dress which come under the first group are naturally divided into those used
by men and those used by women, and we shall accordingly proceed to describe these
separately. The object will be to make the reader understand the manner in which they
are worn, and to indicate the qualities which experience has shown to be suitable, and the
patterns which have proved pleasing to the people : — in short, to illustrate what may be
called the fashions of India.
* The use of the petticoat among Hindu women is confined to Northern India, Rajpootana, &c. South of the
Nerbudda it is almost entirely unknown, the Saree in all its forms being the only garment worn in conjunction
with the Cholee or bodice.
LOOM-MADE GAEMENTS. 13
LOOM -MADE ARTICLES OF MALE ATTIRE.
In describing the various articles of male attire in this group, we shall not start with
those fulfilling the purpose for which clothing was probably first adopted, but rather begin
with those which have to do with the protection and adornment of the head.
After these we shall proceed with the description of those articles in the scarf form which
are employed to envelope the shoulders and upper portions of the body ; next, those which
are used as a covering to the loins and lower extremities ; and, lastly, those which are
employed simply to encircle the waist.
I.— TURBANS.
The Turban is in almost universal use throughout India.
As its chief function is the protection of the head from the heat of the sun, it is usually
of a fine muslin-like texture which, when folded, is at once light, bulky, and porous — thus
admirably fulfilling its main purpose.
Of the materials employed in the manufacture of turbans, cotton occupies the first place.
Besides being the cheapest and most abundant, it has the merit of being a good non-conductor
and of permitting at the same time the free escape of perspiration. It is farther recom-
mended by the fact that it admits of the ready introduction of other materials for the
purposes of adornment.
Silk, however, is used to some extent by the higher classes; — several places (like Seringa-
patam in olden times) being famous for the manufacture of silk turbans.
Wool is not often used in the manufacture of turban pieces ; when it is used, they
are generally in the form of small shawls, those of embroidered Cashmere cloth being
good illustrations.
The tribe or caste to which the wearer belongs frequently determines the size and shape
of the turban, and there are numerous varieties which take special names from their forms
or from the materials of which they are made.*
* The following are some of the names by which the Turban, or Pugri, is known : —
Puttee-dar ptiyri. A compact, neat turban, in very general use t)oth by Hindus and Mahomedans.
Joorc-dar pugri. Similar to the Puttee-dar, but has a knot on the crown. Worn also by Hindus and Muhomedans.
Khirkce-dar pugri. Full-dress turban of Hindu and Mahomedan gentlemen attached to native courts, and with
the Goshwara, or band of brocade, is portion of an honorary dress presented on certain state occasions to
persons of rank by native princes. In the lower provinces this is, however, worn by Hindus only.
Nustalik. A full dress turban of the finest plain muslin, used with the court dress of Mahomedan Durbars, as at
Delhi in olden times, and at Hydrabad, &c., in the present day. This form is very small, and fits closely to the head.
Cltakvccdar. A form of turban used by Mahomedans of Mysore and South of India. The court form of the ancient
Becjapore monarchy, continued by Tippoo Sultaun.
Stthi. Used by bankers, &c. A small form not unlike the Nustalik.
Mundeel. Turban of muslin, with gold stripes, spots, and ends. Usually worn by military officers.
Surbwnd. ->
Siirbutlee. > Derived from Sur the head and Bandhua to bind — Buttcc signifying twisted or coiled round.
Buttcc. J
Morassa. A short turban.
Umanni. A loose turban.
Duslar. A fine muslin turban.
Shwnla. A shawl turban.
E 2
14 LOOM- MADE GARMENTS :
In the mode of folding and wearing the turban an opportunity is often taken for the display
of style and taste.
The Costume illustrations which accompany this work show the multitude of forms which
the turban may be made to assume by a little ingenuity in the mode of folding or making
up. Although the subject in Plate I. — opposite — and Plate II. — facing p. 18 — have been
specially chosen to illustrate this, most of the male figures in Plates III. IV. VII. and VIII.
also afford illustrations.
Among these will be found turbans ranging from the neat compact head-dress which
adorns the Mussulman in figure 2 of Plate I, to the wisp of calico which envelopes the
head of the last figure of Plate VIII.- — facing p. 118; — while in figure 50, Plate VII.—
facing p. 140, — the turban piece not only envelopes the head but leaves enough to pass
across the chest and over the shoulder.
With regard to the colours employed and the principles observed in the ornamentation of
turbans, a few words may be said before proceeding more specifically to indicate their
characteristics.
Turbans are to be found in India presenting every colour and hue in the rainbow, but
white naturally takes by far the most prominent position. Red comes next, then yellow,
and after them green, blue, purple, and, occasionally, even black ; the darker colours being
almost invariably relieved by embroidery.
Among turbans made of silk, we find buffs, shots, and greys ; and in those made of
cotton, printing is frequently employed to produce patterns suited to the tastes of particular
consumers.
As regards what may be called the special ornamentation of fabrics designed for making
up into turbans — its peculiarity— one founded upon true art as well as economy — is that
the decoration is, as much as possible, confined to those portions of the material which
in wear are exposed to view. The introduction of ornamentation, in undue proportion,
would not only involve an unnecessary consumption of comparatively expensive materials,
but would actually interfere with the function which the turban is intended to fulfil.
The native artist thus affords evidence of skill in avoiding an infringement of what may-
be called a first principle in art.
Nor is this confined to native work as it is seen in what we are presently speaking of,
for the same compliment may be broadly paid to the productions of the Indian artisan,
who is always careful to avoid a useless or wasteful ornamentation, and who never allows
himself to forget the purpose which the article he is adorning is designed to fulfil. But it
is not in these respects alone that the excellency of the native artisan is to be seen. He
continually displays an admirable skill in the arrangement of form and colour — producing
those beautiful and harmonious combinations which are to the eye what chords in music
are to the ear. The subdued elegance which characterizes Indian decoration never fails
to please. It marks a pure and refined taste, and whether it be the result of cultivation or
of instinct it certainly exhibits a charming obedience to the great principles of art.
The turban in its unfolded condition ordinarily consists of a strip of cloth varying in
breadth from 9 to 12 inches, and in length from 15 to 25 yards. In some cases, however,
the breadth extends to 36 inches, while the length occasionally reaches to 60 yards.
In the process of making up, the outer end is usually left free to hang down a little, or
is turned up over the folds at the back when the tying is finished. In the simpler and
more common forms, coloured thread is introduced into this free end as an ornament,
TURBANS. 15
•while in others gold in stripes, varying in breadth from one-eighth of an inch to several
inches, is introduced.
Sometimes the gold, or other decorative medium, in addition to running across the rnd
is made to extend longitudinally a little way up from the end, so as to be seen on tin-
side of one or two of the last folds of the turban. In some instances, again, the embellishment
is carried so far up that all the outer folds of the turban present it to view. In PI. II.
the standing figure in the group represents the first of these styles ; the sitting figure to
the left in the same group the second ; while the turban on figure 10 shows the more
copious ornamentation last alluded to.
For the assistance of those who may wish more precise information regarding this class
of manufacture, we shall now refer in detail to the in»-khi!>' xntnjtlcx shown in the volumes
to which allusion has been made.
The turbans are divisible into two groups, consisting of long and square turban pieces. In
describing these, a classification founded upon the quality of the material and the style of
ornamentation will be adopted.
A.— TURBAN-PIECES ;— LONG.
1. TURBAN PIECES. — COTTON; PLAIN, BLEACHED AND UNBLEACHED.
Nos. 1 and 7, Vol. 1, are examples of a plain material, the only difference between them
and ordinary piece goods being that they are specially manufactured of the requisite length
and width.
It will be observed that, like the vast majority of the India fabrics, they are undressed ; the
employment of size to the extent of stiffening the material being objectionable from its
interfering with the lightness and openness of the article. This is a remark which applies
with equal force both to scarf-like and to other fabrics designed for wear next the skin in
hot climates. The use of size interferes with the pleasant feel of the fabric, and impedes
free transpiration from the body.
No. 1 (bleached) is 15 yards long, 12 inches wide, and weighs 6 ounces. No. 7 is 24 yards
long, 12 inches wide, and weighs 84 ounces.
The only other example coming under this head is No. 9, in the same volume, which affords
a specimen of a thick unbleached material from Arracan. Its length is only 3 yds. 18 in.,
its width 9 inches, and its weight 11 ounces. Being a thicker and bulkier material, it does
not require to be so long.
2. TURBAN PIECES. — COTTON ; PLAIN, WITH COLOURED ENDS.
Of these Nos. 3 and 4, from Lahore, are examples. In both of these the ornamental effect
is produced by the introduction across their ends of a yellow stripe, about an inch wide, with
double pink stripes on each side.
No. 3 is 6^ yards long, 1 yard wide, and 15 ounces in weight. No. 4 is 8^ yards long,
1 yard wide, and of weight proportional to No. 3, both being about the same in quality. These
two, it will be observed, are much shorter than Nos. 1 and 7 in the former group, but here
increased breadth is made to supply the necessary bulk.
3. TURBAN PIECES. — COTTON ; PLAIN, WITH GOLD THREAD IN ENDS.
The subjoined table embraces the examples of the class of ornamentation in this important
group.
16
LOOM-MADE GARMENTS :
The pieces shown are of various degrees of fineness, and some (Nos. 13, 14, and 18, for
instance) are excellent examples of muslins from both bleached and unbleached thread. As
already indicated, the finer qualities (such as Nos. 7 and 9) require a greater length in
the piece and a greater number of folds round the head, to give the necessary protection
against the effect of the sun's rays.
Besides being examples of the material used for turbans, these specimens exhibit the extent
to which gold thread is used for decorating the principal or free end of the turban-piece. A
stripe of gold thread nearly 4 inches wide, as in No. 15, is of course very effective, but the
turban with merely a ^ or a TL-inch stripe of the same material, as in No. 16, when seen
on the head, is felt to be far from destitute of ornament.
It is of importance that the metal thus introduced should be of a quality which will stand
the process of washing. Nos. 2, 8, and 12 are instances in which inferior gold thread has
been used, while No. 15 shows a better quality.
A marginal stripe of red cotton thread (as in No. 6) constitutes a favourite combination,
and adds considerably to the ornamental character of the plain gold stripe.
Nos. 15 and 18 are beautiful examples of fine muslin-like materials used for turbans,
and in these the gold thread is seen to be of excellent quality. The first of these comes from
Chundeyree, long celebrated for its muslins, and the last from Hyderabad in the Deccan,
having been probably manufactured at Dhanwarum or Nandair, places famous for fabrics of
this kind.
Vol.
No.
Description.
Measurement of piece.
Weight of
of piece.
Place of manufacture
or v.here obtained.
Length.
Width.
yds. ins.
yds. ins.
Ibs. oz.
I.
2
Cotton, bleached. Common material, with two narrow
23 0
0 12
0 12
Bhurtpore.
gold stripes in end.
„
0
Cotton, bleached. Thin texture ; narrow (J-inch)
16 0
1 3
0 14
Kangra.
stripe of gold thread in end.
))
6
Cotton, bleached. Fine texture. Two-inch stripe of
20 0
0 11
0 8
Cashmere.
gold thread in end, with small double lines of red on
each side.
„
8 Cotton, bleached. Medium texture. In common use
23 18
0 13 12
Sind.
among the higher classes. Wide (2j inches) stripe
of gold thread, with two smaller ones nearer to end.
„
10
Cotton, bleached. Made in India, of English thread.
22 0
0 131
0 9
Benares.
One-inch gold stripe in end.
„
11
Cotton, bleached. Made at the same time as the last
22 0
0 13i
0 12
Benares.
sample, but of Indian thread. 2-inch stripe of
gold thread in end.
„
12
Cotton, bleached. Fine, light texture. £-inch stripe of
17 0
0 12
0 7
Hoshiarpore.
gold thread in end.
„
13
Cotton, bleached. Fine texture, f -inch stripe of gold
33 0
0 10
0 9
Hyderabad, Deccan.
thread in end.
„
14
Cotton, bleached. Fine texture, ^-inch stripe of gold
20 0
0 9
0 9
Hyderabad, Deccan.
thread in end.
„
15
Cotton, unbleached. Fine texture. Broad (2| inches)
29 0
0 121
0 71
Chundeyree.
stripe of gold thread, and three narrow stripes of
same closer to end.
'„
16
Cotton, unbleached. Gauze, of good texture. Very
21 0
09,06
Madras.
narrow (y^-inch) stripe of gold thread in end.
Price 4*. 8rf.
„
17
Cotton, unbleached. Favourite texture. 1^-iuch stripe
21 0
0 101
0 10
Hyderabad, Deccau.
of gold thread, with three narrow stripes nearer to
end, and one narrow stripe on inner margin. A nar-
row stripe (^-inch) of gold thread is also introduced
into the other end of this turban-piece.
„
18
Cotton, unbleached. Gauze-like texture. |-inch stripe
33 0
0 13
0 9
Hyderabad, Deccan.
of gold thread across end.
•ITIll'.ANs. 17
4. Truiux PIECES. — COTTON ; DYED on PRINTED.
Nos. -20, 30, 31, 32, and 34 arc the examples given.
Of these No. 34 is the one which, in point of material and colour, is the most worthy
of attention.
No. 20 is interesting as a specimen of what, next to colouring by hand, may be considered
the simplest way of producing an ornamental effect, — namely, that of using a stamp to lay a
body color on the surface of the material. In the specimen in question a star pattern, in white
and black, has been thus stamped on a dull red ground. This mode of ornamentation is not
uncommon, but it is not an economical one, as the material cannot be cleaned or washed.
In the specimen referred to (No. 20) it will be observed that the white stands out from the
dull red ground on which it is placed in a way which has a good effect.
It is said that in the making up of this turban padding is employed, a mode of construc-
tion which is not uncommon in some parts of the country. The turban piece in question
(No. 20) is 14 yards long, 10 inches wide, and weighs 7 ounces. It was manufactured at
Bhurtpore.
No. 30 is a rather coarse material with a small close pattern in dark-red and black on a
pinkish-white ground. About 3 inches of the end is dark-red with a pattern in black printed
on it. Length 15 yards, width 9 inches, and weight 9-V ounces. Manufactured at Sydapet,
and stated to be worn by the Lubbays, an industrious class of Mahomedan fishermen and
merchants on the Madras coast.
No. 31, an ordinary calico material. Pattern, a small zig-zag stripe of red on a white
ground. Six inches of the principal end are dark-red, with an ornamental pattern in black
printed on it. Length, 12 yards; width, 11 inches; weight, lib. Manufactured at Pomady
but bought in Madras bazaar. Price in 1854, 2s. 7\d*
No. 32, quality similar to last example. Pattern a small black and white check. Six inches
of principal end dark red, with pattern in black and white. Length, l6i yards ; width, 9 inches ;
weight, 154 ounces. From Pomady, in Madras, price 3s. In this, and in No. 31, the
fabric is sized or stiffened in an unusual degree, but this would probably be removed before
making up the piece for use.
No. 34 shows a favourite style of pattern, and although very inferior in texture, is otherwise
not unlike the specimens from Jeypore — Nos. 23 to 28 included under group 6. The pattern
may be described as a double zig-zag. Three inches of the principal end is of the main colour
of the piece, viz. purple. When made up, the whole would form a turban similar in appearance
to that shown in figure 8, PI. II. Length, 16.V yards; width 10 inches; weight, 15i ounces.
Obtained in Madras. Price 3s.
5. TrRBAN-PlECES. — CoTTON ; DYED, COLOURED, OR PRINTED ; GoLD THREAD IN ENDS.
The subjoined table contains the examples coming under this head.
Nos. 23 to 29 inclusive are admirable specimens both of material and of style. They
are from Jeypore, a native state, which in other branches of art shows evidence of skill in
manipulation and in management of colour.
* The prices given here and elsewhere throughout this work, and which are the same as those on the
labels in the Fabric Books, must not be taken as a correct guide to present values. They simply represent the
sums paid in 1854 by the various Committees appointed by the Government in India to collect specimens for
the Paris Universal Exhibition of the following year. Although on the main reliable for the period named,
the prices attached to some of the articles are clearly inaccurate.
18
LOOM-MADE GARMENTS :
The turban in fig. 9, of Plate II. shows the peculiar zig-zag pattern, which is a
favourite in many parts of Rajpootana, and is employed in other garment pieces besides
turbans. Some of the examples are so soft and fine to the touch, that it is at first
difficult to believe that they are composed of cotton unmixed with silk.
No. 33, made at Madura in Madras, a place long celebrated for its manufactures and for
its excellent dyes, is a good example of a useful material and of a favourite dark-red
colour which shows the gold thread to much advantage.
In this piece it will also be observed that a little gold thread is worked into the end of the
turban which is usually next the head. In the folding and tying up of such turbans the
wearer manages to show both ends.
Vol.
No.
Description.
Measurement of piece.
Weight of
of piece.
Place of manufacture
or where obtained.
Length.
Width.
yds. ins.
yds. ins.
Ibs. oz.
I.
23
Cotton, printed. Fine texture. Red and white zig-zag
18 18
0 9
0 4
Jeypore,
pattern. 1^-inch stripe of gold thread in principal
Rajpootana.
end.
•)>
24
Cotton, printed. Fine texture. Zig-zag striped
17 18
0 9
0 3£
Ditto
pattern, in variegated colours. If -inch gold stripe
in end.
J»
25
Cotton, printed. Fine texture. Pattern, small zig-zag
18 18
0 8i
0 4
Ditto
stripes, of crimson and yellow. About 3 inches
of end plain red, with If -inch stripe of gold
thread.
?)
26
Cotton, printed. Fine texture. Pattern, zig-zag
18 18
0 9
0 4
Ditto
stripes, £ inch wide, in variegated colours. Prin-
cipal end, plain red with 3j-inch stripe of gold
thread.
J>
27
Cotton, printed. Fine texture. Zig-zag stripes,
24 0
0 11
0 8
Ditto
of a dotted pattern, in variegated colours, on a
scarlet ground. Principal end, plain scarlet, with
2§ inch stripe of gold thread.
JJ
28
Cotton, printed. Fine texture. Zig-zag stripes
17 0 i 0 9
0 3i
Ditto
in red and white. Principal end, plain red, with
gold thread stripe 1^- inches wide.
J5
29
Cotton, printed. Fine texture. Figured pattern dotted
21 0
0 10
0 51
Ditto
in colours. 2 inch stripe of gold thread in principal
end. Favourite pattern in Eajpootana.
>•
33
Cotton, printed. Useful material. Pattern, a small
23 0
0 12
0 13
Madura, Madras.
white spot on a deep chocolate red ground. Prin-
cipal end ornamented with 1-inch stripe, and three
smaller ones of gold thread. The other end has
also four gold threads introduced into the fabric.
Price 105.
6. TuRBAN-PlECES. COTTON ; DYED, COLOURED, OR PRINTED ; GOLD THREAD
IN ENDS, BORDERS, &c.
In these we have examples of the more profuse application of the gold thread for
ornamental purposes. Nos. 19, 22, 36 and 37, are illustrations of the method by which, in
addition to the stripe across the principal end, the external folds become an ornamental portion
of the turban when in wear. To accomplish this, one or more stripes of gold thread are carried
to a considerable distance down the piece from the free end ; in one case indeed it extends
throughout the whole length of the piece.
, &c.
TURBANS. 19
The extent to which this method is adopted varies considerably. A bulky turban, like that
which No. 36 would make up, requires a larger amount of this kind of ornamentation to
produce the effect shown in figure 10, PI., II. than would be needed by one of smaller
dimensions.
Nos. 36 and 37, like No. 33 referred to under the last head, are from Madura in Madras,
and afford additional examples of that dark red which is so favourite and so suitable a colour
for this class of turbans.
The following details apply to each of the four examples in this group :
No. 19. Length, IQi yards; width, 13 inches. A light red colour. Cross stripes and figures
in gold thread of a poor quality occupy 20 inches of the principal end, and two stripes, each
of about half an inch in breadth, extend four yards down centre of piece. From Oodeypoor
in Rajpootana.
No. 22. Length, 13 yards ; width, 17 inches, weight 12 ounces. Red. Three |-inch wide
stripes of gold with black margins run throughout the whole length of the borders and
centre of piece. Four and a half yards of the principal 'end are ornamented with gold spots
somewhat of a pine shape, and it is finished off with a figured and striped pattern also in
gold thread. From Hoshiarpore, Punjab.
No. 36. Length, 261 yards ; width, 15 inches ; weight, 1 Ib. 3| oz. Price £4. Favourite red
colour. Stripes of gold thread extend for 10 yards down the centre from the principal end,
and for 4jj- yards from the other end. About 20 inches of the principal end are enriched with
cross stripes and figures in gold From Madura, Madras.
No. 37- Length, 23 yards; width, 12 inches; weight, 13 oz. Price £2. Favourite colour,
like the last, and from the same place of manufacture. In addition to an inch-wide stripe of
gold in centre, this specimen has a narrow stripe of the same extending 6 yards down from the
principal or free end, and a 3-inch wide cross stripe, with 10 smaller ones in three rows,
completes the ornamentation.
/. TuRBAN-PlECES. — COTTON ; DYED ; GoLD PRINTED.
The specimen No. 21, although imperfect in execution, affords an illustration of a kind
of ornamentation which is not uncommon, and which can be adopted with considerable
advantage in the embellishment of fabrics not requiring to be washed nor likely to be
exposed to wet.
The process by which this mode of decoration is accomplished is by stamping the desired
pattern on the cloth with glue. The gold or silver leaf, as the case may be, is then laid on,
and adheres to the glue. When dry, what has not rested on the glue is rubbed off.
The turban piece No. 21 is 14i yards long and 7 inches wide. The ground is crimson.
A gold printed figured stripe, 3^ inches wide, extends the whole length of the centre of the
piece. Padding is used in making up this turban, and, in this case, there is no special
ornamentation across either end. From Bhurtpore.
Such gold printed turbans are used for marriage ceremonies and other household or
family festivals, and not for ordinary wear.
(3428.)
20 LOOM-MADE GARMENTS :
8. TuRBAN-PlECES. SlLK, &C.
As before indicated, silk, although not nearly so common as cotton, is nevertheless frequently
employed in the manufacture of turbans.
The example given (No. 38) is of silk and cotton, and affords an illustration of a fabric fairly
suited for its purpose, such mixtures of the two materials being, in some respects, better
calculated to fulfil the functions of the turban than silk alone.
It is probable that some of the beautiful silk materials, of the mousseline de sole or gauze
class, would, if manufactured into proper turban-pieces, form an attractive article with the
richer natives, always supposing that suitable colours and styles of end ornamentation were
adopted.
The example given (No. 38) is 2(^ yards long, 10 inches wide, and weighs 8| ounces.
Price 11*.
The warp is a dark purplish red silk, and the weft is a dark cotton. The end is decorated
with a f-inch stripe, with two smaller ones on each side.
B.— TUKBAN-PIECES ;— SQUAKE.
The class of turbans, or roomals, to which we have now to refer, are those composed of large
squares, or pieces nearly square. When made up they present an appearance somewhat like
that shown in fig. 12, PI. II., and fig. 24, PI. IV., which illustrate the Shumla, or shawl
turban.
These squares vary in size from one and a half to four yards per side — three, and three and
a half yards constituting a useful size. Yarns of the quality of English 60s (warp) and 808
(weft) would produce articles of suitable texture.
These squares are sometimes worn over the shoulders as well as used for head-dresses.
No. 43, Vol. II. is said to be used both ways. It is a tolerably fine plain book-muslin,
with a gold stripe in the borders. Length, 2 yards ; width, 2 yards ; weight, 6 ounces. Price
11*. Manufactured at Arnee, Madras.
No. 35, Vol. I., is 96 inches square, and its weight is 12 ounces. It is a moderately fine
muslin of the favourite deep-red colour before alluded to. On two sides it has a black
border, 1^ inches wide, with a figured gold pattern in it of If inches. The other two
sides have each a stripe consisting of a few black and gold threads. Manufactured at Madura,
Madras. Price 13*.
No. 40, Vol. I., is a fine muslin, scarlet, with deep (3f inches) gold borders set off with
black. It is not quite square, the length one way being 1 yard 22 inches, and the other
1 yard 16 inches. Its weight — 6^ ounces — appears heavy, when its fineness is considered,
but this is due to the amount of gold thread which it contains. Manufactured at Bhurtpore,
near Agra.
No. 39 Vol. I., affords an example in which silk and gold together are employed for the
decoration of a cotton fabric, a combination of which we shall find many illustrations in the
other classes of wearing apparel. Form nearly square, the length one way being 3| yards,
and the other 3^ yards; weight 1 Ib. 11 oz. Price £2 15*. 3d. Colour, a deep blue. Has
a figured border, 1^ inch wide, of gold and silk on two borders, and of silk alone on the
other two.
LOONGEES AND DHOTEES. 21
In the foregoing descriptions of the modes of ornamenting turbans, it will be observed
that silver thread has not been mentioned as in use for that purpose. In some parts of the
country, however, it is employed, as for instance in the Dharwar district, where a kind of
turban called the Mondasa is manufactured, and is said to be worn by the poorer classes on
festival days. The use of silver thread is not common, on account of its liability to tarnish ;
and perhaps also because the difference between the cost of the small quantity of gold and
of silver thread, which proves sufficient for the embellishment of a turban, is too small
to render it an important element in the calculation, whilst the greater beauty of the
former secures for it the preference.
II.— LOONGEES AND DHOTEES.
Before the introduction of the art of sewing, the dress of the male Hindu, in addition to
the head-cloth, consisted of two scarf-formed pieces, one of which was worn over the
shoulders and upper part of the body, and the other was used as covering for the loins
and legs. The first of these is called a Loongee* and the second a Dhotee.f
At the present time the usual dress of the poorer classes of Mahomedans and Hindus,
whilst at home or at work, consists simply of the piece of cloth called a Dhotee wrapped
round the loins. The end of this, after a couple of turns round the waist, is passed by
the Hindu between the legs, and thrust under the folds which cross behind. Occasionally,
however, the end is passed from behind and fastened in front. Amongst the Mahomedans
again, the loin-cloth, after being folded two or three times round the waist, is usually
allowed to hang down : — that is, it is not tucked up between the legs as with the Hindus.
The standing figure in group 4, PI. L, and other figures in Plates III. and IV., afford
illustrations of the manner in which this article of dress is worn. The simpler form consists
of a small piece of calico, J with its ends turned over a string tied round the haunches, while
the more elaborate forms are nearly as copious as a woman's petticoat. Figures 22 and 23,
PI. IV., show this.
Although piece-goods of a suitable breadth are largely cut up into dhotees, as well as into
shoulder-scarfs, it is to the Loongee and Dhotee manufactured of the proper length and
width, that is, in separate pieces, that we have here more particularly to refer.
The first class of articles, viz. the Loongees, or scarfs, for wearing over the body and
shoulders, are of the more importance, because they afford greater scope for the introduction
of those decorations which we have seen to be so successfully employed in turbans.
* This term has come to be generally applied to the shoulder or upper cloth worn by males. The majority of the
specimens forwarded from India, and inserted in the Fabric Books, were so designated, and although not precisely
correct, this name (Loongee) is here adopted as affording, for trade purposes, a convenient distinction between
shoulder and loin cloths. Strictly speaking, the Loongee is worn by Mahomedans, and has the same function as
the Dhotee of the Hindu.
•f Dhotee; derived from dhona, to wash, and so named from being washed daily at the time of bathing.
Every Dhotee, however, has not this daily washing, for in its more elaborate form it is embellished with ornamental
borders, and, by the rich as well as the poor, on festival occasions, is doffed after the ablutions for the day have
been finished.
J Langgoti is the name used when the Dholee is very small. (Buchanan, in Martin's "Eastern India,"
Vol. HI., p. 103.)
F 2
22 LOOK -MADE GARMENTS :
As we proceed it will be observed that these scarfs are frequently manufactured in
pairs,* with a fag between for convenience of separation ; the longer portion being used to
wrap round the upper part of the body, and the shorter piece round the loins, as already
described.
The Loongee is worn over the shoulder in a variety of ways. Plates III. and IV., and more
particularly the latter, show some of these.
It will be observed, also, that most of the male figures represented in Plates I and III.
have a cloth of some sort thrown over the shoulder, ready to be adjusted as circumstances
may require. The same cloth, when of plain material, acts not only as a plaid during the
day, but as a sheet at night, f
These scarfs vary in length from 3 to 6 yards, and in breadth from 1 or 1^ to 3
yards ; two breadths being often joined to form a wider garment.J
The materials (cotton, silk, and sometimes wool, or combinations of these) of which the
Loongees and Dhotees are made, are fully illustrated by the examples, upwards of ninety
in number, to be seen in the Textile Work itself. §
The remark made under the head of Turbans, as to the character of the special
ornamentation adopted, applies equally to the loom-made garment pieces presently to be
described ; the principle, as already stated, being to employ the decoration in the manner best
calculated to set off the articles ivhen in wear. For this purpose, not only are the ends
ornamented, but the borders also, as may be seen in the scarfs over the shoulders of the figures
in PI. IV. In the case of these men's scarfs, the two ends as well as the borders receive the
same amount of ornamentation because both are seen when in use. As in the case of
turbans, however, we find that the scarfs worn by women have only one ornamented end,
the opposite one being usually concealed in the process of folding round the person.
The introduction of special borders and ends into the parts not seen would not only be
wasteful, and therefore objectionable, but from the character of the materials employed, it
would increase the thickness of the fabric in a way which would interfere with the comfort
of the wearer.
"We now proceed to afford specific information regarding this class of native manufacture.
An arrangement similar to that adopted in the case of turbans will be followed; that is,
we shall speak of them according to quality and character of ornamentation, beginning with
the inferior and proceeding upwards to the more elaborate specimens.^"
» A cloth of this sort, of which two pieces form a dress, is called Jore, from Jora, a pair.
•f The calico sheet called Dakar is in the cold weather doubled and worn over the shoulders. (Buchanan, in
Martin's " Eastern India.")
J A scarf consisting of two such pieces or breadths stitched together, is called Doputta (literally two breadths) ;
the single piece, or width, Ecputta (one breadth) is also used without being joined ; but those who can afford
it prefer the more ample garment supplied by the Doputta.
§ Silk and wool loin cloths, or combinations of both, are called Pitambur, and are worn by Brahmins and other
high class Hindus exclusively at meal times, when cotton garments of any kind are impure. At meals the
Brahmin or other strict Hindu ought to wear no other garment than a Pitambur, the head and body to the •
waist being uncovered.
f The only inconvenience which may be experienced from this arrangement is that the reader who wishes
to refer to the samples themselves will have occasionally to turn from one volume to another. This arises
from three causes. As originally grouped the examples most worthy of attention were inserted first : in other
instances an effort was made to keep together the manufactures of a particular district ; and, lastly, in order
to render the work as complete as possible, two or three of the volumes were prepared after the others were
finished.
C OSXTT M Z - 1 X.JL.U ST
COOTTO1T.
LOOXGEES AND DHOTJ:i l':¥,
A. LOONGEES, INCLUDING DHOTEES WHEN MANUFACTURED TOGETHER.
1. COTTON. — PLAIN; COLOURED ENDS; NO BORDI:I;>.
This group, in its simplicity, approaches the class of piece goods which have merely to be
cut across to form scarfs of suitable dimensions.*
Nos. 79 and 80 (Vol. II.) afford illustrations of the commonest material of which this
garment is made.
No. 79 is a rag for a boy, and is 1 yard 3 inches in length, 19 inches in width, :ind weighs
2 ounces. It has a few chocolate-coloured threads across each end close to the edge.
From Biekul (now Carwar) N. Canara.
No. 80. A coarse, thick, unbleached cotton, having two red stripes and one blue at each
end. Worn by the Burghers, an aboriginal Hill-tribe in Southern India. Length, 5 yards
9 inches ; width, 1 yard ; weight, 3 Ibs. 1 oz. From Coirnbatore, Madras.
2. COTTON. — PLAIN ; COLOURED BORDERS AND ENDS.
Nos. 46, 47, 50, and 54, Vol. II., in the subjoined Table afford examples of the Jore
or complete dress of two pieces, the longer forming the Loongee for wear round the
shoulders and upper part of the body, and the shorter, which is of the same pattern, being the
loin cloth or Dhotee. These are woven with a fag, to allow of their being readily
separated.
No. 75 is an instance of an unusually wide border.
Nos. 76, 77, and 78 are illustrations of what may be called the minimum of ornamentation
under this head — slight, however, as it is, it adds materially to the attractiveness of the piece.
No. 52 is a plain muslin material with simple borders and ends. Although entered as
a mans garment, it would be much more frequently used as a woman's Saree.
Nos. 109 and 110, Vol. III., although received from Bombay, and stated to have been
made at Surat, are probably of English manufacture. The borders are good, but the
few stripes which form the end pattern are too poor, in proportion, to be effective. So far as
we have observed, this is a remark which applies to almost all the attempts hitherto made
in this country to manufacture this class of goods for the Indian market.
The light, open texture of the fabric, required for ordinary wear in India, is well shown in
this group ; but further on we shall find illustrations of the thicker cotton materials which
It will be observed that the numbers on the right-hand corner of the labels run through the different volumes
consecutively- from 1 upwards— an arrangement which affords facility of reference. In each example the utm«,-t
care has been taken to give a sufficient number of portions to show the whole pattern, and so to constitute what,
is called a working sample.
In cases which show only one specimen of a border or end pattern, it is to be understood that the two ends
borders are alike.
* The greater proportion of the grey, and the inferior qualities of the bleached piece-goods exported from thin
country to India, are employed in this manner.
LOOM-MADE GARMENTS
are employed during the cold season of the year, and the manufacture of which has as yet,
we believe, been entirely confined to India itself.
Vol.
No.
Description.
Measurement.
Weight.
Cost.*
Place of
manufacture,
or where
obtained.
Length.
Width.
yds. ins.
yds. ins.
Ibs. oz.
£ s. d.
II.
46
Cotton, plain. One-inch border. Coloured stripes,
Loongee
"1
§ inch wide, in each end, in yellow and choco-
late.
5 20
Dh'otee
r 2
1 4
026
Ganjam,
Madras.
2 27
j
II.
47
Cotton, plain. Gauze-like texture. Green and
yellow striped border, f inch wide. At each
end, one 1£ inch, red and green stripe, and one
Loongee
5 4
Dhotee
L
0 14
023
c Nagang,
J bought in
l_ Madras.
|-inch red stripe, !•£ inch apart.
2 27
j
II.
50
Cotton, plain. A blue and yellow stripe, ^ inch
Loongee
1
wide in border, and two similar stripes across
each end.
3 9
Dhotee
2 18
1 not
f given
J
}l 6
039
Nellore,
Madras.
II.
54
Cotton, plain, unbleached. One-inch border of
Loongee
"I
reddish brown, striped with two blue lines.
At each end, two red and yellow cross stripes,
4 18
Dhotee
16
1 21
0 2 11
Congeveram,
iVIadras.
one 1| inches, and one ^ inch wide.
2 27
J
II.
75
Cotton, plain, unbleached. Seven-inch border
5 28
1 4
1 7
033
Ganjam,
(unusually wide), red, yellow, and white stripes.
Stripes of same colours in 6^ inches of the prin-
-
Madras.
cipal end. At opposite end ^-inch stripe of red
and white.
II.
76
Cotton, plain. ^-inch brown stripe in border
3 0
1 3
0 81
0 1 3
Candapoor,
(badly marked). Two -^ inch, and one ^-inch
N. Canara.
red stripes across each end.
n.
77
Cotton, plain, unbleached, £ inch chocolate colour
8 9
1 5
1 10
0 2 41
Vencata-
stripe in border, and two similar ones across
gorry,
each end.
Madras.
ii.
78
Cotton, plain, unbleached. TVinch chocolate
colour line in border. At each end, one ^ inch,
and, at 2 inches distance, two T\j-inch stripes
of red.
in.
109
Cotton, plain. A 2£-inch border, figured in red,
2 9
1 3
0 61
0 1 0
Surat, Bom-
green, and yellow thread. Three lines of red
bay.
thread across each end.
in.
110
Cotton, plain. Two-inch chequered border, in
4 8
1 5
0 121
0 1 7£
Surat, Bom-
red, green, and yellow. -J-inch stripe of five
bay.
red lines across each end.
n.
52
Coarse muslin. Yellow stripe (-[-% inch wide) in
7 27
1 9
0 131
030
Nagang,
border. One fa inch, and one small double
bought in
stripe of yellow across principal end.
Madras.
See note, page 17.
3. COTTON. — PLAIN ; SILK IN BORDERS AND ENDS.
In this class the ornamentation is accomplished by the use of silk.
In No. 45 the silk is inserted in the border only, and in 'No. 48 in the end only; but
in the other examples given in the table below, both ends and borders are of silk.
Nos. 44, 45, 48, afford examples of the pleasing effect produced by making the pointings
(called Kutaree, from Kutar, a dagger) seemingly unite the inner side of the border to
the body of the garment.
LOONGEES AND DHOTEES.
25
It will be observed that the whole of the examples under this head, with the exception
of the boy's garment (No. 48), are woven in two pieces to form a Jore, or dress.
Vol.
No.
I V"* c r i pt 1 on
Measu
rement
Pswt
PUceof
maim
Length.
Width.
Weight.
l/Offu
or n i
obtained.
jd". ins.
yds. ins.
Ibs. n/.
£ i. d.
n.
u
Cotton, plain. Common texture : figured border,
Loongee
ieh wide, of coloured cotton, with a little
Moonga silk used in imitation of gold
5 18
Dhoteo
}1 10
1 9
030
GnnjaiM.
thread. The Knt«r puttern introduced in
3 4
Madras.
the inner edge of border. Two coloured stripes
(yellow and chocolate) at each end, one ,7. inch
and one £ inch wide, and 3^- inch apart. \Voven
in two pii-ee.-. \vith a fag lictv
about
ii.
48
Cotton, plain. Hoy's garment. Borders 2j inches
1 34
0 27
0 2£
0 1 4
Congeveram,
wide, of variegated stripe.-. In ends, two co-
Madras
loured stripes of cotton and silk ; one '2\ in<
and one •£ inch wide, and 1-J ii'/lics apa.-t. In
this instance the borders a: • of different
colours. This variation adds to the attractive-
ness of the piece, so long as both colours arc
kept in harmony.
ii.
44
Cotton, plain. Figured border, with Kular
Loongee
"I
edge of coloured silk 1-J inches wide ; one 3-
inch silk and cotton, and one 1-inch cotton
5 9
Dhotee
1, .
1 8
080
Salem, Ma-
coloured stripe in end. Woven in two pieces,
3 9
J
dras.
with a fag between.*
n.
49
Cotton, plain, unbleached. .Narrow stripe of deep
Loongee
"I
plum-coloured silk, -Js inch wide, along bonier.
Cross stripes of same colour at each end, viz.,
3 0
Dhotee
ll 18
1 11
086
Woozzoor,
one § inch wide, and narrow double stripe, 1|
2 27
J
Madras.
inch wide nearer to end. Woven in two pi>
with a fag between.*
ii.
53
Cotton, plain, unbleached. Good texture. Figured
Loongee
I
silk border (with Kutar edge), H inch wide,
5 9
ll 9
111
OR ( i
^ 'lip 111 AT'l-
white silk being used in it in imitation
Dhotee
1
o v/
k i«llt_JHj jTj tl"
of silver thread At each end one 3-inch
3 0
J
dras.
and one ^-inch coloured stripe of silk and cot-
ton. Woven in two pieces, with a fag between.*
n.
55
Cotton, plain, unbleached. Good texture, i inch
Loongee
"I
reddish brown silk stripe in border. Two
similar stripes, one 2^ inches and one f inch
wide, at each end. Woven in two pieces, with
4 27
Dhotee
2 27
}"
1 6
056
Congeveram,
Madras.
a fag between.*
* The fay here alluded to as dividing the piece into two portions, that is, into the Loongee, or body garment, and the Dhotee, or loin
cloth, is introduced in order to allow of the two garments being easily separated.
4. COTTON. — PLAIN ; COLOURED BORDERS ; GOLD IN ENDS.
Example No. 51, Vol. II. A plain muslin with narrow deep purple-coloured borders, and
at each end a half-inch cross stripe of crimson and gold thread. This sample is another
illustration of the manner in which, by a judicious use of a small amount of material, a
pleasant effect is produced. Length, 3 yards ; width, 1 yard 9 inches ; weight, 1 Ib. 3 oz.
Price 10*. 6d. From Arnee, Madras.
26 LOOM-MADE GARMENTS :
5. COTTON. — PLAIN ; GOLD AND COLOURED COTTON IN BORDERS ; GOLD IN ENDS.
No. 42, Vol. II. Bleached. Figured borders of gold and of black cotton thread. Has two
stripes of gold at each end. Two pieces in one length with fag between. Length of
Loongee 5 yards 27 inches, and of Dhotee 3 yards 4 inches ; width, 1 yard 13 inches ;
weight, 1 Ib. 3 oz. Price \l. 10s. From Woopparaddy, Madras.
6. COTTON. — PLAIN ; GOLD AND COLOURED SILK IN BORDERS ; GOLD IN ENDS.
No. 41, Vol. II., is an excellent example both of texture and style. Material, unbleached
cotton. Flowered borders of black silk and gold 1^ inches wide. Gold stripe (2£ inches
wide) at each end. Length, 8 yards 21 inches ; width, 1 yard 19 inches; weight, 1 Ib. Price
31. 12s. From Madura, Madras.
Having shown the manner in which a plain white cotton fabric is rendered attractive, by
the ornamentation of its ends and borders, we come next to the instances in which colour
is employed in the body of the piece, as well as in the ends and borders.
In the three groups which follow, the classification has not, as in the previous groups, been
strictly founded upon the character of the border and end patterns, since the quality or
thickness of the material has been also taken into consideration.
In group 7, the texture, although a little closer, will be found to be not unlike that of
examples already dealt with. In No. 8 group, however, we find a stouter and softer material ;
whilst in group 9 the fabric is as thick as many of the slighter woollen cloths made in
England.
It is an error to suppose that thick and warm fabrics are not required in India. Throughout
a great portion of that country the suffering of the poor from cold during certain seasons,
particularly at night, is as great as with us in Europe. The temperature in many parts of
India falls occasionally during the cold season to the freezing point or below it. But even
when the temperature does not go down so low as 32°, a fall from 90° during the day to 60°
at night- — a by no means uncommon occurrence at certain seasons — produces a very decided
sensation of cold and a consequent demand for warm clothing.
The thicker materials now under consideration are durable as well as warm, and of their
commercial importance as a class, evidence is afforded by the fact that during the recent
cotton famine in England and the consequent rise in price of the raw material in India, the
native goods retained their position in the market more firmly than the English ones did,
though the price of the native-made goods rose to a much greater extent than did that
of the European. The report of the Sudder Board of Revenue to the Government of the
North- Western Provinces " regarding the slackness of demand for European cotton goods "
(dated Allahabad, 16th March 1864) so well illustrates this point that we give in a foot-note
the portions which specially refer to the subject.*
" The extraordinary rise of price " (of the raw material) " has affected, though unequally, the demand both for
native and for European stuffs. The same money only buys half, and often less than half, the quantity of cloth it
used to." " The enhanced prices have diminished the consumption both of English and of native
pieces ; but, at least in the western districts, they have affected the English more than the native. This is remarkable,
seeing that the native goods have advanced in price in a higher ratio than the European — the increase in the former
LOOXGKKS AM) JHIOTEES. 27
The man who could afford to purchase only one garment piece in the year found it true
economy to buy one which would both last long, and give him a proper protection against
cold.*
We may here remark that many of the mixed cotton and woollen fabrics now manufactured
in tliis country would probably be suitable substitutes in the Indian market for the thick
and warm cotton stuffs which the native makes ; all that is wanted being skill in turning
out goods of the proper lengths and breadths, and with a style of ornamentation like that
which the native adopts and likes; an important necessity, however, being that they
should be of good washing material, both as to quality and dye : without this qualification
they would be useless.
It would be well if a thicker class of cotton goods could be supplied at a price which
would suit the ordinary Indian consumer ; but there is no doubt that mixtures of cotton and
wool of a fine soft description, would suit a large class of the people. Indeed, we actually
find that in India, where the supply of the finer kinds of wool is as yet but limited, the high
price of cotton during the past three years considerably increased the use of woollen
manufactures, which in some districts were more than doubled in price.f
1 . COTTON. — COLOURED THREAD ; BORDERS AND ENDS FORMED BY MODIFICATIONS OF PATTERN.
The subjoined table indicates the examples which come under this head.
It will be observed that with the exception of Nos. 117, Vol. III., and 129, Vol. IV., the
whole of the illustrations given have been manufactured by the Lubbays of Madras, to
whom reference has already been made. Some of the specimens show expertness in the
imitation of foreign $ patterns, and their skill in suiting these to the requirements of the
being cent, per cent., and i:i some cases rising even to near 200 per cent., while the latter have risen only from 50 to
100 per cent."
"One chief reason for this difference is no doubt, that the native fabrics are heavier and contain more cotton ; the
COBl of production remaining the same, the rise in the price is of course greater in the heavier than in the lighter
stuft's." . . " What is strange is, that while they have increased in price so much more than
English goods, they should still maintain themselves in the market better than English goods can do. Yet the tenor
of the evidence contained in the returns leaves no doubt on this head."
" The consumption of the native goods has diminished in consequence of the increased price, but the consumption
of English goods has diminished in Car greater measure. In this view the native goods have, to some extent and
in a certain sense, taken the place of the English ; yet this has been, not in consequence of increased, but in spite
of very considerably diminished production. The reasons assigned are various. It is alleged that, notwithstanding
the relatively greater increase of its price, the cost of the coarse native article is still considerably less than that
of any English stuffs that would answer the same object. It is held that the native article is more durable,
thicker, warmer, and better suited to the wants of the people in these provinces ; and that Lancashire inuM
produce a coarser, thicker, and cheaper article than it does at present before it can compete in this department of
manufacture with the native weaver."
In the appendix to the same report, Mr. W. A. Forbes states that the Mar/troi, a stout warm kind of English
cloth, somewhat like the stout native variety, became doubled in price, whereas the ordinary light English gooils
increased in price to the extent of only one-third.
0 The inconvenience which would arise from wearing the thicker material during the hot period of the year
is simply avoided by not putting it on.
•f Mr. H. D. Robertson (in Appendix to the Report already quoted) states this with reference to the Saharun-
pore districts , and the remark applies to other places as well.
f Is it certain that the checks and other patterns here alluded to are foreign to India ? Our knowledge of the fact
that these Lubbays are reputed to have devoted themselves very much to the manufacture of such imitations seems to
indicate the probability that the patterns in question are of exotic origin, and we are inclined to believe that some of
the more Tartan-looking ones must be so. On the other hand we have, from parts of India with which our
communications have been of recent date, patterns clearly of Indian origin, yet very similar to our Tartans.
(3423.) G
28
LOOM-MADE GARMENTS
Indian market. It will be observed that in the checks which have been imitated, the ends
and borders, which constitute the article a separate and special garment, have been produced
simply by a modification of the body pattern.
Vol.
No.
Description.
Measurement.
Weight.
Cost.
Place of
Manufacture,
or where
obtained.
Length.
Width.
yds. ins.
yds. ins.
Ibs. oz.
£ s. d.
n.
63
Cotton. Pattern, green, red, white, and yellow
3 27
1 3
0 10i
036
Conathoor,
cheek. Borders 1 inch, and ends 7 inches,
Madras.
formed by modification of pattern.
n.
65
Cotton. Pattern, black and white check, on
3 18
1 2
1 1
030
Pulicat, Ma-
crimson ground. Borders 1 inch wide,
dras.
and ends 8 inches, formed by modification of
pattern.
n.
66
Cotton. Pattern, large blue and white check,
3 27
1 6
0 12
029
Mylapore,
Borders and ends formed by modification of
Madras.
pattern.
ii.
67
Cotton. Pattern, blue and white (J inch) check
4 9
1 2
0 14
080
Pulicat, Ma-
on scarlet ground. Borders and ends formed
dras.
by modification of pattern.
n.
68
Cotton. Pattern, large (2^ inch) blue and white
3 27
1 2
1 3
053
Pulicat, Ma-
check. Blue ground. No special border. Yel-
dras.
low cross stripes in each end.
n.
69
Cotton. Pattern, green, yellow, and white (f inch)
7 12
1 2
1 6
070
Mylapore,
check on a red ground. Border and ends
Madras.
formed by modification of pattern
ii.
71
Cotton. Pattern, a small blue (£ inch) check
2 9
1 4
o 71
020
Coonathoor,
on crimson ground. Border 1^ inch wide,
Madras.
formed by modification of pattern. Cross
stripes of red and white introduced into each
end.
n.
72
Cotton. Pattern, email crimson check (9 lines to
6 27
1 3
1 6
080
Coonathoor.
an inch) on a black ground. The weft stripe
Madras.
withdrawn in 40 inches of each end, and cross
stripes of red and white are introduced.
ii.
73
Cotton. Pattern, blue, crimson, and white check.
3 18
0 34
0 9
o 2 n
Coonathoor,
1 inch border and 6 inch ends, formed by mo-
Madras.
dification of pattern.
in.
117
Cotton. Pattern, small blue and white check to
4 18
1 22
1 4
046
Loodiana,
within 12 inches of each end. 2^-inch blue
Punjab.
stripe border. Cross stripes of blue at each
end.
IV.
129
Cotton. Pattern, red and white check. 3J-inch
4 30
1 8
1 0
060
Shikarpore,
border and 7 inches of each end marked by
Sind.
modification of pattern.
8. COTTON. — COLOURED THREAD ; STRIPES AND CHECKS ; SPECIAL BORDERS AND ENDS.
In this group it will be observed that although some of the patterns are similar to those in
the last one, the borders have a more special character.
As regards thickness of material some of the examples in it are intermediate between
the last group and that which is to follow. No. Ill, Vol. III., shows a soft material,
pleasant to wear, and is worthy of careful examination.
LOOXGEES ANT) DHOTEES.
Vol.
No.
Description.
Mi'usurvnu-nt.
Weight.
C061.
I'la.
Manuftctuiv,
or whence
obtained.
Length.
Width.
yds. ins.
. ins.
Ills.
t 1. ./.
11.
09
u. Drop rose colour, with Mack stripes. 1 1
"l !»
"I 0
0 I.'! 0 \ 0£
.M\ lap.ire.
to the inch. Borders (^-inr ;iml lilack
Madras.
hes. At each end two yellow and
ipea, one $ inch ami one .', inch wide.
II.
60
Cotton. Dull yellow and choc . red check.
2 !)
1 <)
o 10.;.
0 2 3
Karikal, Ma-
(12 to the inch), 6 inches of each end Iieinjr
dras.
darker in pattern than liodv ot' piece, liorders
inch) dark chocolate colour stripes. Made
and worn by the Lubh:
II.
68
Cotton. Small black line check (10 to an inch)
6 0
1 4
I ^ 0 7 9
Coonathoor,
on dark lilne ground. Coloured stripes in
Madras.
borders 3J inches wide. In about a yard of
each end of the piece the check pattern is dis-
continued an • i-ipc-. of various colour-
and widths introduced. Worn liy theLubbays.*
II.
64
Cotton. Deep rose colour ground, with -.arrow
•2 !)
1 1
04 0 2 (i
Karikal, Ma-
black stripe, 10 to the inch. Same as No.
dras.
oil, but without the border. Worn by the
Lubbuys.
III.
100
Cotton. Red. Borders. 2-inch stripes, chiefly
.-, 2S
0 32
12040
Shikar] )0re,
green. A green, red, and white 3£-inch stripe
Sind.
across each end.
in.
10.:
Cotton. Check of narrow blue lines ^l-inch apart.
6 12
1 4
1 14 060
Shikarpore,
One inch border striped in colours. Cross
0. , L
bind.
stripes (.> inches) at each end, in orange, green,
and crimson. A common pattern.
m.
Ill Cotton. Plain twilled. I -inch borders, red stripe,
2 30
1 18
17 0 7 3£
Nurrapore,
and dotted margin. Across each end a 3 -inch
Sind.
stripe in yellow, blue and red, and £-inch stripe,
in red and blue.
in.
113
Cotton. Twilled, chrome yellow colour. Bordriv-,
2 27
1 14
1 7
040
Shikarpore,
^-inch stripe of green with white line edges.
Sind.
At each end cross stripe 1^ inches wide, same
pattern as borders ; and near the extreme end
a £-inch stripe of green and white.
9- COTTON. — COLOURED THREAD ; CHECKS AND STRIPES ; FIGURED DIAPER BODY ; BORDERS
AND ENDS FORMED GENERALLY BY MODIFICATION OF PATTERN.
The subjoined table includes the first examples given of the thick material* to which
reference has been made, and to which the remarks regarding the probable advantages of
employing a mixture of wool and cotton apply.
Nos. 119, Vol. III., and 126 and 127, Vol. IV., are good examples of intermediate qualities.
Nos. 479 and 480, Vol. XII., given under the head of Cloths for Domestic Purposes, afford
illustrations of a still stouter and warmer fabric, which would prove saleable at certain times
and places.f
* Called Kass or, more properly, Khes. Loodiana Khes is said to be the best kind of cotton fabric "
made in the Punjab. It is exported in some quantity to Leh and Chanthan in Chinese Tartary.
Buchanan in " Martin's Eastern India," Vol. I. p. 353, defines Khes to be a cotton diaper used by natives as a
dress, but in demand by Europeans for table-linen purposes. The prices of the specimens from Sind, although
representing what they actually cost, can scarcely be regarded as representing their real value in the market.
f So also do some of the thicker materials used for trouserings shown amongst the piece-goods.
G 2
30
LOOM-MADE GARMENTS
Vol.
No.
Description.
Measurement.
Weight
of
Piece.
Cost.
Place of
Manufacture,
or where
obtained.
Length.
Width.
yds. ins.
yds ins.
Ibs. oz.
£ x. il.
III.
102
Cotton. Figured, diaper pattern. Two-inch bor-
5 4
1 20
3 6
047
Nurrapore,
ders, dark umber and green stripes ; main stripe
Sind.
of light umber. 2f-inch green stripe across
each end. A soft and thick fabric, much used.
III.
112
Cotton. Figured, diaper pattern in red and white.
2 32
1 10
1 6
080?
Nurrapore,
Two-inch borders formed by variation in colour,
Sind.
and absence of the white stripe of the check
pattern. Each end for 6 inches marked in
similar way. Not so soft and thick as No. 102.
III.
114
Cotton. Figured pattern in blue and white.
2 27
1 14
1 14
099?
Nurrapore,
Borders 4£ inches, and ends 10£ inches, formed
Sind.
by adaptation of body pattern.
III.
H5
Cotton. Figured pattern in blue and white,
2 33
1 22
2 1
0 15 41?
Nurrapore,
checked with crimson. Border and ends formed
Sind.
by adaptation of main pattern.
III.
116
Cotton. Blue and white, ^ inch, checkered
2 34
0 26
2 1
099?
Nurrapore,
pattern. Borders 1£ inch, of blue stripes.
Sind.
Stripe If inch wide, and of same pattern as
border across each end.
m.
118
Cotton. Figured pattern, blue and white. Border 2 13
1 1
1 12
050
Euneeporeim,
1-jy inch, and ends 5 inches, formed by modifica-
Sind.
tion of body pattern.
in.
119
Cotton. Small blue and red checkered pattern,
2 27
1 20
1 5
0 12 0?
Runeeporeim,
on a white ground. An inch border of similar
Sind.
pattern, but still smaller. Blue and white
cross stripes at each end, in keeping with general
design.
in.
120
Cotton. Dark blue, with broad white stripes.
3 12
1 10
2 21
036
Shikarpore,
Special modification of pattern to form borders
Sind.
and ends. Used as a covering for the body, and
also as horse cloths.
IV.
121
Cotton. Dark blue. Large blue and white check.
3 111
1 10
1 131
020
Shikarpore,
Striped 1^-inch borders, and one 2|-inch stripe
Sind.
across each end in accordance with pattern of
piece.
IV.
122
Cotton. Blue and white stripe. 1 inch coloured
2 27
1 4
1 4
0 1 H
Shikarpore,
stripe in border, l^-inch red stripe across
Sind.
each end.
IV.
125
Cotton. Somewhat like a small diaper pattern.
3 0
1 18
1 5
—
Sylhet.
The only attempt at ornamentation is in the
narrow fringe at the end of the piece, in
which red cotton is introduced at intervals
of 1 inch.
IV.
126
Cotton. Bleached. Somewhat like the " duck "
2 18 , 1 9
1 3
—
Cachar.
used for military summer trowsers. No special
borders or ends. Good example of a favourite
plain warm material.
IV.
127
Cotton. Bleached, coarse. Borders 3£ inch
8 0
1 2
1 14 ! 0 2 0 ?
Shikarpore,
stripe of pink. Similar stripes across each end.
Sind.
Soft and thick material.
XII.
479
Cotton. Soojney. A thick material of un-
2 9
1 4
2 0
046
Kurnool,
bleached cotton, with large diaper pattern in
Madras.
bleached cotton woven in the unbleached mate-
rial. Used as a counterpane.
xn
480
Cotton. Soojney. A thick material of dark ! 2 9
1 4
2 0
046
Kurnool,
red cotton, with large diaper pattern in bleached
Madras.
cotton woven in the coloured material. Used
as a counterpane. In this and the previous
example, the design towards the end is varied
from the diamond shape or diaper pattern into
zig-zag cross stripes, also in bleached cotton
on the red ground, and an inch and a half of
the extreme end is plain white, with a slight
fringe.
LOONGEES AND DHOTI 31
10. COTTON. — DYED; BORDERS AND ENDS IHUMID.
No. 58, Vol. II. and No. 130, Vol. IV., afford illustrations of printing brought to bear upon
the production of garment pieces of the class now under notice. No. 58, 8 yards 9 inches
long, 1 yard 10 inches wide, weighing 1 Ib. 11 oz. and costing 7*., is a badly dyed pale
pink with narrow (i inch) figured borders in chocolate and black. At each end there are
two cross stripes, one similar to the border, the other narrower and entirely chocolate
colour. From Masulipatam, Madras.
No. 130, though poor in execution, shows tolerably well how printing may accomplish
a desired effect.
The body is the dull but favourite red,* with squares of white spots. The borders
(1^ inch wide) are black with white dotted pattern. There are two cross stripes at each
end (one 3i and the other lj> inches) of the same pattern as the border, but separated to
the extent of 6 inches by a pattern of flowered pines. Length, 2 yards 3 inches ; width,
1 yard 6 inches, weight 4i ounces, price 1*. From Surat, Bombay.
We come now to the coloured cotton Loongees and Dhotees in which silk is introduced
into the ends and borders in order to add to their attractiveness. In manufacturing this
class of goods it is important that the borders should be stiff and thick, and that the weft
should not appear through the silk.
11. COTTON. — COLOURED OR DYED; SILK ENDS; NO BORDERS.
Nos. 97 and 99, Vol III., are from Kohat, an important wool-producing district.
The first is dark blue without a border, but plain and figured stripes, in coloured silk
and cotton, are woven across each end to a depth of 9 inches. This piece is 10 yards long-
by 37 inches wide, and weighs lib. 12 oz.
No. 99 is of a similar character, except that across each end the stripes are of red and
yellow silk and 2i inches wide. The dimensions of this sample are ; length 3 yards, width
1 yard 2 inches, and weight 1 Ib. 1 oz.
These are examples of a garment which is extensively used by both sexes in the valleys
west of Kohat.
12. COTTON. — COLOURED OR DYED; SILK BORDERS; COLOURED COTTON ENDS.
No. 103, is also from Kohat, and is of dark blue cotton, with a plain 1-inch stripe of
red along the border. Each end is marked by a weft of white thread for a depth of 9 inches.
The length is 4 yards 17 inches, width 1 yard 6 inches, weight 1 Ib. 15 oz. Commonly worn
by the men of the Ayrore valley in the Kohat district.
The body pattern of No. 108 is a small check of red and white on a green ground.
It has a 2;|-inch stripe of crimson silk in the border, and the ends are varied by a narrow
stripe pattern crossed by faint stripes of green. This piece, which is 2 yards 3 inches long
by 1 yard 6 inches wide, and weighs 8 ounces, is from Surat in Bombay. The price in 1854
was 4*.
» The favourite reds, as a rule, arc dark ones. The Turkey reds and other variations of pure madder dye
colours are extremely popular, not merely on account of the colour, but because that colour is a fast one— a most
important consideration with the native customer, owing to the very frequent washing of a rough character.
32 LOOM-MADE GARMENTS :
13. COTTON. — PLAIN DYED; SILK BORDERS AND ENDS.
Nos. 95 and 98, Vol. III., are the examples under this head. No. 95 is dark blue
(a favourite colour) with l)2-inch border of dark crimson silk. About 42 inches of each
end is decorated with plain and figured cross stripes, in silk and cotton, of various colours.
This specimen is interesting, not merely because so considerable a portion of each end is
ornamented, but also because the border is sewn on.*
Length of piece, 5 yards 24 inches ; width, 1 yard 8 inches ; weight, 3 Ib. 4 oz. From
Kohat. ,
No. 98 is a soft material worthy of notice. The pattern, which is a kind of diaper,
in crimson, deserves attention. The border in this instance is a stripe of yellow silk
(probably in imitation of gold lace) with margins of coloured cotton thread. Across each
end is a coloured and figured stripe of silk and cotton 3^ inches wide.
Length 3 yards, width 1 yard 8 inches, weight, lib. 8oz. It cost 11s. 6d. From
Nurrapore, Sind.
14. COTTON. — CHECK; SILK BORDERS AND ENDS.
No. 96 is an example of a favourite pattern in the Punjab. The body pattern is a very
small dark blue check, with a border formed by a 1\ inch stripe of red silk. In each end,
for 15 inches, cross stripes of yellow, green, and crimson silks are introduced. Length
4 yards, width 1 yard 17 inches, and weight 1 Ib. b\ oz. Price 12s. From Leiah, in the
Punjab.
The pattern of No. 101, Vol. III. is a wide open check of narrow crimson lines, 1 inch
apart, on a white ground. Border, a 2-inch stripe of crimson silk, with f-inch edging on
the inner side of the Kutar pattern. Across each end, a 3f-inch stripe of crimson silk
and white cotton. Length 3 yards 7 inches. Width 1 yard 8 inches. Weight llJ> ounces.
Price in 1854, 4*. Wd. From Pind Dadun Khan.
No. 104, Vol. III. This is a check pattern, formed by faint crimson lines T|ths of an
inch apart on white ground. The border consists of a plain 2-inch crimson silk stripe, and
across each end are a 4^-iuch stripe of crimson, green, and yellow silks, and four supple-
mentary stripes of crimson and yellow silks J inch wide. Length 3 yards 22 inches, width
1 yard 16 inches, weight lib. 3oz. Price lls.Qd. From Lahore in the Punjab.
15. COTTON. — PLAIN DYE; COTTON AND SILK BORDERS; GOLD ENDS.
No. 56, Vol. II., is a further illustration of the method in which the two garment pieces,
viz., the Loongee and Dhotee, are woven in one piece with a fag at the point of sepa-
ration. The material is a rose-coloured muslin with a 1^-inch border, "Kutar" pattern.
Moonga silk is introduced, apparently in imitation of gold thread. At each end is a f-inch
cross stripe of gold and black thread.
The length of the longer piece, or Loongee, is 5 yards 27 inches, and of the shorter, or
Dhotee. 2 yards 18 inches, the width 1 yard 11 inches, and the weight lib. 2 ozs. From
Rajahmundry, Madras, where, in 1854, the piece cost 14s. 6d.
* This is occasionally done ; and borders made for the purpose might be so employed to a greater extent than
they are.
2.-J
COTTOOST
SILIC.
LOOXGEES AND D1IOTEES.
33
16. COTTON. — PLAIN DrE; GOLD BOEDI.KS AND ENDS.
No. 57, Vol. II., is a pink coarse muslin or light cotton fabric. The special border in this
instance is of the Kutnr pattern already described. It is stamped in black on the piece,
and is figured with gold thread. At each end are a f-inch and a ^Vinch stripe of dark
brown, relieved by lines of gold thread.
Length 8 yards 18 inches. Width 1 yard 11 inches. Weight 1 Ib. 3 oz. Price I/. 4*. 6d.
From Madura, but purchased in Madras.
17- SILK AND COTTON CHECK.
No. 61. Vol. II., is of a deep rose-coloured ground, in which is woven a faint check
of yellow silk thread. The borders and ends are a modification of the main pattern.
Manufactured by the Lubbays, and obtained from Mylapore, Madras. Length 3 yards
27 inches, width 1 yard 2 inches, weight 10 ounces. Price 4s. 6f/.
18. SILK AND COTTON. — SILK BORDERS AND ENDS.
Nos. 92 and 93, Vol. III., in this group, are worthy of attention as affording examples
of a thickish material formed by a combination of silk and cotton.
Vol.
No.
Description.
UjBUDTCBMBti
Weight
Cost.
Place of
Manufacture,
or where
obtained.
Length.
Width.
ins.
yds. ins.
Ibs. oz.
£ 3. I/.
III.
92
Light blue cotton weft, and silk warp, with i-incli 4 7.!
1 18
1 14
—
Hyderabad,
coloured and figured stripes, £ inch apart.
Sind.
Border 2;j indies wide, laced pattern, in yellow
and other coloured silks. At each end a broad
(4f inches) cross silk stripe, one crimson and
the other yellow. Edged with two 1^-inch
figured stripes.
m.
93
Coloured stripes, alternately ^ inch and ^ inch
4 0
1 20
2 0
—
Hyderabad,
wide. 2J-inch border of blue and coloured
Sind.
silks, laced pattern. At each end a broad silk
cross stri]>e of yellow on one side, and crimson
on the other, edged with two 1^-inch figured
stripes in coloured silks. Total width of cross
stripes in ends, 8 inches.
in.
94
Green, with .£ inch check of crimson silk. 4 inch
6 20
1 6
1 1
0 16 0
Runecpore,
stripe of yellow silk at each end, and a faint
Sind.
stripe of the same colour in the border.
19. SILK AND COTTON. — GOLD IN BORDERS AND ENDS.
No. 86, Vol. III., Cotton weft and silk warp. Pattern, a white ground checked with
crimson silk lines I inch apart. Rich laced border (l£ inch wide) in gold and blue and white
thread.
Deep (9J inch) cross stripes of gold and crimson at each end. Length 7 yards 15 inches.
Width 1 yard 18 inches, weight 1 Ib. 1 oz. Price ll. 12s. From Jhelum, in the Punjab.
LOOM-MADE GARMENTS :
No. 218, Vol. VI., is a gauze-like fabric of green cotton warp and crimson silk weft.
Border (jj inch wide) of crimson silk figured with gold lace. At each end a laced pattern
of gold thread l£ inches wide. Length 3 yards 4| inches. Width, 1 yard 15 inches,
weight, 9 ounces. Price 18s. From Bombay.
20. SILK. — GOLD BORDERS AND ENDS.
The specimens described in the following table afford some excellent examples of the
extent to which ornamentation of the class of garments under notice is carried. These rich
Loongees are only manufactured in a few places in India, and all of them display a remarkable
similarity in the patterns of their borders and ends.
Vol.
Description.
Measurement.
Length. Width,
Weight
of
Piece.
Cost.
Place of
Manufacture,
or where
obtained.
III.
in.
82
III.
84
Yellow corded silk. Rich laced border 2£ inches
wide, of gold and crimson and black silk.
71-inch cross stripes at each end of gold and
crimson silk. Woven in half widths, each
having the border on one side only. Two of
such widths being sewn together, a complete
garment with two borders is formed.
Deep crimson ground, checked with narrow green
lines ^ of an inch apart. Eich laced borders
If inches wide in gold and coloured silks.
Cross stripes at each end of green and crimson
silk and gold. This example, unlike No. 81,
is woven in one piece, with a border on each
side.
Plain, light cinnamon-coloured silk. Rich laced
border (2 inches wide) of gold and coloured
silks. Each end has also a 3-inch cross
stripe of gold lace in the same colours, but of
different pattern. Woven in half widths, two
pieces sewn together forming one garment.
yds. ins.
3 25
3 10
yds. ins.
0 29
Ibs. oz. £ s. d.
0 14
Bhawulpore.
1 16
4 3
0 2
0 94-
Jhelum, Pun-
jab.
Bhawulpore.
111.
80
ueep crimson grounu, wiiii ii ciieciv 01 narrow
white lines J-inch apart. Richly laced border
O O~t J. 1O
i i*y
( iy ly \ -LKMiure, JT un-
jab.
(2 inches wide) of gold and silver threads and
coloured silks. Cross stripe 4| inches wide in
gold and colours at each end.
III.
87
Crimson ground. Border (If inches wide) of
3 18 1 14
1 H 400 Goodaspore,
gold and blue. At each end a cross stripe, j
Punjab.
2f inches wide, of gold and coloured cotton
threads.*
III.
89
Figured stripes alternately yellow and green, and
48 1 18
1 84
Bhawulpore.
crimson and white. Richly laced 2-inch border
of gold and coloured silks. At each end a
34-inch cross stripe, in design and material
similar to border.
III.
90
Deep red silk with small yellow check (6 lines to
7 0
1 14
1 13£
260
Buttala,
an inch). 2^-inch border of crimson silk,
Goodaspore.
crossed by ^-inch stripes of gold thread, 1-^inch
apart. In 19 inches of each end cross stripes of
crimson and green silks with gold.
III.
91
Yellow silk, with small crimson check (six lines
7 5
1 20
' 1 H£
400
Buttala,
to an inch). 2^-inch border of crimson silk,
Goodaspore.
crossed by ^-inch stripes of gold thread, ] % inches
apart. Ends (20 inches) cross stripes of crimson,
green, and yellow silk, and gold.
* This peculiar use of gold and coloured cotton thread for the ornamentation of silk fabrics is very effective.
LOOXGEES AND D1IOTEES,
35
21. SILK. — GOLD AND SILVER FIGURED STRIPES.
No. 88, Vol. III., is an example of a piece said to be suitable for a Loongee.
The pattern, however, is more like that employed for trowser pieces. The specimen in
question has neither borders nor ends, and to make it into a loongee, these would have to be
added. From Bhawulpore.* Length, 5yds. 15 in.; width, 31 inches ; weight, 1 Ib. 3|oz.
22. SILK. — SILVER ENDS ; SILK BORDERS.
No. 83, Vol. III. Crimson checked by narrow green lines ; borders green with the Kutar
pattern ; ends, for 18 inches, ornamented with cross stripes of green, yellow, black and
silver. Length, 6yds. 24 ins. ; width, 1 yd. 14 ins. ; weight, 1 Ib. 1 oz. From Rawul Pindee,
Punjab.
23. WOOL. — VARIOUSLY ORNAMENTED.
In the Table below will be found a description of the examples in which WOOL is the material
employed. It will be observed that these have in the Table been grouped according to the
mode in which their borders and ends are decorated.
No. of
Description.
Measurement.
Weight
of piece.
Cost.
Place of
Manufacture,
or where
obtained.
Vol.
Sample.
Length.
Width.
yds. ins.
yds. ins.
Ibs. oz.
& s. tl.
XVI.
628
'"Deep end (16 inches) formed by cross
6 12
0 30
1 11
—
Hyderabad,
«
stripes of various colours and widths.
Sind.
XVI.
636
a
i
Large double line check of blue on plain
3 13
0 28
4 0
—
Kooloo,
fa
uncoloured ground. 3 inches of end
obtained
3} dark crimson, with blue and white
from
cross stripes.
Kangra.
XVI.
642
£ | Plain, uncoloured. Close to end aT4ffinch
3 19
1 16
3 4
053
Beejapoor.
[_ coloured stripe.
XVII.
644
^Plain, uncoloured, coarse texture. J-inch
3 0
1 14
2 5
0 3 7£
Bangalore,
00
stripe of yellow in border. Fringed
sent from
s
y.
end, with narrow cross line of yellow.
Madras.
W
Sewn together in centre to form com-
g
™
plete loongee.
XVIII
677
Red ground, with small yellow check ;
5 9
1 34
2 0
540
Cashmere.
00
border (^-inch wide) is a long stripe of
0
a flowered pattern, woven in coloured
0
wools and silk, sewn on to the garment
p
piece. A similar stripe is inserted
3
across the end of the loongee.
XVI.
637
3
Crimson, with 1-inch stripe in border of
3 0
1 14
2 4
030
Bangalore,
H
£
uncoloured cotton. Two sewn together
sent from
form one garment piece.
Madras.
* The specimens from Bhawulpore were presented by the Nawab, and their cost is consequently unknown.
As already stated, it would not be safe in any instance to regard the prices attached to the articles as the present
value. They merely represent the amount known to have been paid for them when they were bought in 1854.
(3428.) H
36
LOOM-MADE GARMENTS:
No. of
Description.
Measurement.
Weight
of piece.
Cost.
Place of
Manufacture,
or where
obtained.
Vol.
Sample
Length.
Width.
yds. ins.
yds. ins.
Ibs. oz.
& s. d.
XVIII
687
Tlain uncoloured material. Border (1^
3 6
1 9
1 2
1 14 0
Lahore.
inch wide) consisting of a 1^-inch stripe
of green silk, and an inner f-inch silk
stripe of crimson, with yellow centre.
Also called a " Dhoosa," or wrapper.
Single piece.
XVIII
688
Plain, dark, uncoloured material. Border
3 4
1 17
1 121
1 14 0
Lahore.
(2 inches wide) consisting of a 1^-inch
stripe of crimson silk, and a T*j-inch
inner silk stripe of white with green
centre. Woven in two lengths with
M
H
fag between.
Single piece.
xvin.
689
Q
n
Plain, light drab, uncoloured material.
3 14
1 9
i H
1 6 0
Lahore.
«<
Border, 1J inches wide, of crimson
X
silk, plain. Woven in two lengths with
3
fag between.
XVIH.
690
QQ
Plain, uncoloured, brown material.
2 30
1 6
0 141
1 6 0
Lahore.
Border, If inches wide, consisting of
an inch stripe of crimson silk, and an
inner f-inch silk stripe of white and
green.
xvm.
691
Plain, uncoloured, white material.
3 5
1 12
1 5i
1 15 0
Lahore.
Border (1^ inches wide), consisting of
lg inch stripe of green silk, and a
^•-inch strips of crimson and yellow silk
"
in the inner side.
Ahout
XVII.
652
g ("Plain, dark grey body. Border, 1 J-inch
5 12
0 25
3 14
040
Hyderabad
K stripe in crimson, green and yellow
Sind.
silks. Across end a 3-inch stripe with
« , figured centre in crimson, yellow and
3 '
«
green coloured silks. Used for body
0
2q
clothing in cold weather, also for bed
M
covers and saddle-cloths. Sewn to-
3
&
gether in centre to form one garment.
No. 676, Vol. XVIII., from Cashmere, is an example of a woollen Loongee with silk and
silver borders. The colour is orange yellow, and the pattern a small diaper. The borders,
which are of the same pattern, have a silver thread warp. They are upwards of 5 inches
in width, and have green silk and woollen stripes on either side, with an additional stripe of
green silk between them and the extreme edge of the piece.*
This concludes what we have to say of the important class of Loongees and Pitamburs, and
of Loongees and Dhotees manufactured in one piece.
* The dimensions, weight, &c., of this garment piece are unknown, as it came to hand in an uncomplete state.
For this reason also, in cutting it up for insertion in the collection under description, it was found possible to show
the border in a certain number only of the examples, and even these are arranged across the page, instead of
vertically, as usual.
LOOXGEES A>'D DHOTEES.
37
B.— DHOTEES ;— SINGLE.
Of the Dhotccs or loin-cloths manufactured separately a brief notice will suffice, the general
character of this garment having already been pointed out.
In these there is not so much room for variety as in the case of the articles employed
for the protection or adornment of the upper portions of the person. In a garment, indeed,
so much of which is concealed in consequence of the mode of wearing it, the opportunity
for ornamentation is limited. The use of such a material as metal would be apt to
interfere with the comfort of the wearer. The necessity for its being frequently washed is,
perhaps, the principal reason for avoiding much decoration.
The following table comprehends the whole of the examples of Dhotees uncombined
with Loongees which we have considered it necessary to give. The examples from Santipore,
Nos. 289, 290, and 291, Vol. VIIL, are perhaps the most worthy of attention.
Nos. 106 and 107, Vol. III., are similar to many of the loongees in having silk borders, the
chief difference being, that the end pattern in the dhotee is reduced to a few cross stripes.
No. 124, Vol. IV., received from Surat, shows the kind of article which is occasionally
manufactured in England for export, and No. 123 illustrates a yellowish colour which would,
in some districts, prove an attraction if adopted for grey shirtings.
Vol.
No.
Description.
Measurement.
Weight
of piece.
Cost.
Place of
Manufacture,
or where
obtained.
Length.
Width.
yds. ins.
yds. ins.
Ibs. oz.
£ s. d.
IIL
106
Cotton, plain. Border, 4-inch figured crimson
3 22
1 8
0 11$
050
Surat,
silk stripe. Three faint red cotton stripes
Bombay.
across each end.
IIL
107
Cotton, plain. Border, 2^-inch stripe, chiefly
4 6
1 2
o i;;i
040
Surat,
of crimson silk. Faintly marked 1 inch
Bombay.
stripe of red across each end.
IV.
124
Cotton, plain, with ^-inch coloured stripe woven
3 30
0 34
0 12$
0 1 5
Surat,
in border. Three narrow red lines across
Bombay.
each end.
IV.
123
Cotton, plain. 1-inch red border, figured
421
1 1
0 12$
026
Calcutta.
pattern, printed. 2-inch figured stripe
across principal end, and an inch stripe
across the opposite end ; both of same cha-
racter as the border.
rv.
128
Muslin, bleached. Blue flowered pattern.
3 0
1 0
0 6^
Kathaman-
Border marked merely by two slight lines
doo, Nepal.
of blue. At each end broad cross stripes
and adaptation of body pattern, with pine
pattern added.*
VIII.
289
Santipore Dhotee. Light texture. f-inch
5 32
1 9
0 5±
056
Santipore,
border, figured iu red cotton and Tussah
Calcutta.
silk, with two inner stripes woven in the
plain material. Red stripes across end.
vni.
290
Santipore Dhotee. Light texture, f-inch
4 18
0 32
0 5£
056
Santipore,
figured border, woven in red and blue thread,
Calcutta.
with small inner stripe woven in the plain
material. 2$-inch figured stripe in yellow,
red, and blue thread across one end, and
across the other a §-inch blue stripe.
vm.
291
Santipore Dhotee. Light texture. One border
5 20
1 10
0 6£
056
Santipore,
orange and blue, and the other crimson and
Calcutta.
blue. Figured, $ inch wide.
* It has not been possible to cut the original piece so as to show the pine pattern in every sample.
H 2
38
LOOM- MADE GARMENTS :— KTJMMERBTJNDS.
III.— KUMMERBUNDS.
The Kummerbund* — literally, waist-band — or sash, as a loom-made article of male attire, has
next to be considered.
It is chiefly used by the Mahomedans, — the manner in which the dhotee is worn by the
Hindus rendering it less necessary in their case. Both Hindus and Mahomedans, of the
richer classes, however, when in full dress almost invariably use it.
When used, as it often is, for effect, it is narrow ; sometimes, however, it is of considerable
width and bulk. Figures 55 and 57, PL VIII., illustrate the manner in which it is worn.
In Northern India these sashes are almost always made of wool and are of different degrees
of fineness. Muslin textures, however, are used elsewhere. Ornamentation, when adopted,
is confined to the ends, into which coloured threads of various kinds, and occasionally
gold, are introduced.
The examples given of this class of manufactures are all woollen. They show the quality
of material used, the length of the sash, &c., but afford no remarkable illustrations of pattern ;
it is, however, thought that there is scope for the advantageous introduction of ornament
into the ends of such articles.
No. of
Measurement.
Place of
Description.
Weight
of piece.
Cost.
Manufacture,
or where
Vol.
Sample.
Length.
• Width.
obtained.
yds. ins.
yds. ins.
Ibs. oz.
£ s. d.
XVI.
629
Waistbaml of a male Beloochee. Red. Coarse
5 0
0 10
1 71
—
Beloochistan.
and narrow. Plain.
XVI.
630
Plain, uncoloured. Coarse, but strong texture.
6 33
0 12
1 7
—
Nepal.
XVI.
632
Plain, uncoloured. -
5 18
0 9i
1 0
—
Thibet.
XVI.
633
Fair quality, indifferent colour. A red stripe,
3 3
0 12"
2 9
—
Darjeeling.
1 inch wide, across end.
XVI.
635
Plain, coarse material, with, at 9 inches from
5 18
0 15
2 2
—
Kangra.
end, a double line stripe of red.
* Like most Indian terms, which have passed into use as English, this word is spelt in a variety of ways, as
Kumerbund, Kamarband, Cummerbund, &c.
39
LOOM-MADE ARTICLES OF FEMALE ATTIRE.
I.— SAREES.
The chief article of female attire in India consists of a long scarf, called a Saree, which
both envelopes the body and acts as a covering to the head. It is the common dress of the
Hindu women of all ranks, as well as that of a large proportion of Mahomedans. By the Hindus
of the northern provinces of India it is occasionally worn along with the petticoat of the
Mahomedan. This combination, however, is rare, and, indeed, amongst the poorer classes,
especially during the hot weather, the Saree is the only article of dress employed.
The mode of wearing the Saree is very much the same all over India, although, of
course, the amplitude of its folds, and the quality of the material used, vary with the social
position of the women.
As usually worn, one end is passed twice round the waist, the upper border tied in a
strong knot, and allowed to fall in graceful folds to the ankle, thus forming a sort of
petticoat or skirt — a portion of one leg being only partially concealed by the Hindu.
The other end is passed in front across the left arm and shoulder, one edge being brought
over the top of the head. It is then allowed to fall behind and over the right shoulder and
arm. In PL V. and VI. will be found several illustrations of the manner of wearing the
Saree. The Brahmin lady, No. 37, PI. VI., shows its application when it forms almost the
complete Hindu clothing ; fig. 34, PI. V., a photograph from an imperfect painting on
talc,* shows an instance in which the Saree has been employed to produce the full effect of
a petticoat of moderate dimensions. The Mahratta costume of the well-known and celebrated
lady — the Begum of Bhopal — as represented to the left in No. 35, PI. VI. (and in three
other groups in the same Plate) is likewise worthy of attention.
The sitting figures in groupf 27, PI. V., represent the mode of adjusting a Saree of less
ample dimensions when used by women employed in out-door labour — the end, which falls
in front, being passed between the legs, and tucked in behind, forming as it were drawers
reaching to the knee. In addition to the petticoat or trowser the Mahomedan women in many
parts of Northern India use, instead of the Saree, the Boorka or sheet veil, which consists of a
covering thrown over the head, with a networked space opposite the eyes, and which is
voluminous enough to conceal almost the whole person.
In Burmah the principal article of female dress consists of a square piece of cloth worn
over the back and across the breast, one end being secured by thrusting it under the fold which
comes over the bosom.
* Introduced principally for the purpose of showing the long ornamental end of the Saree, which, however, is
represented as having been brought over the right instead of the left shoulder and side of head.
f Reproduced from a photograph (by Johnson) of women employed in the construction of the railway, near Bombay.
40 LOOM-MADE GARMENTS :
With respect to the materials of which the Saree is made, and the character of its texture,
a few general remarks may here be made.
As to material, cotton naturally occupies the first place, then mixtures of cotton and silk,
and lastly, silk itself. There are no examples given in which wool has been employed, but
some of the remarks already made, respecting the introduction of that fibre into fabrics suited
for wear in India during the cold season, should be kept in view by the manufacturer, being
as applicable to Sarees as to Loongees.
Just as in the case of the Loongees and Dhotees, attention must be paid to the texture
of the fabric employed. This requires to be loose and soft, in order to be agreeable to the
wearer, and to allow the garment to fall more gracefully into shape.
Indeed, during the hot season, it would be almost impossible to wear a cloth of cotton or
silk in the manner the native women of India do, unless it were of open texture and soft and
pliable.
With respect to the way in which these long scarfs are embellished by the introduction of
borders, &c., we shall find the same variety in the character of the decoration, and the same
subordination of ornament to function as in the case of Loongees.
Sarees, made in separate pieces of the proper length, have, almost invariably, ornamental
borders of some sort or other ; and one end, that exposed to view, has care devoted to its
adornment, as in the case of the turban-pieces. The opposite end, being worn next to the body
and out of sight, is left nearly plain.
The number of ways in which effect is produced, by the variety of materials and patterns
employed to form the borders and ends, will be seen by referring to the descriptions of the
groups which follow.
In the note below will be found some terms which have been applied in different parts of
India to the Saree or to modifications of it, but the name of Saree is that which is now most
commonly employed.*
We now come to the consideration of the special illustrations of this class of loom-made
garments.
* Boonnee. From Boonna — to weave. This cloth is made either with a red or black border. The former is
worn by Hindu and the latter by Mahomedan women. Dimensions 10 yards by 1 yard. — (Cotton manufacture
of Dacca, p. 62.)
Kilnya. So called when the piece of cloth is woven so that " two breadths must be stitched together to make one
wrapper." — {Buchanan in Martin's " Eastern India," Vol. II., p. 93.)
Dhoti. In Buchanan's time, in Goruckpore, the wrapper worn by women, when of full size, was called dhoti
— a term which in Behar and Bengal is confined to the male dress, where also the appellation Sari for the female
wrapper was used. — {Buchanan in Martin's " Eastern India," Vol. II., p. 93.)
Chadur, Choddur, Chudder. Literally a sheet used as a covering by Mahomedan women, but it is also applied to
the plain woollen shawls manufactured at Umritsur and Eampore.
Sadhie is a name used for the Saree in the Mahratta country.
Chundur Kala, when the Saree is of one colour only, black or red.
Putta. A kind of holiday cloth of the Saree class, worn in Dharwar by children at weddings, &c. It is of plain
cotton or of silk embroidered according to the station of the wearer.
Sulleedar. A silk saree worn by women at festivals in Dharwar.
Karchori. A Parsee lady's dress, gold embroidered, of the Saree class.
Tamieng. A saree worn by Burmese women.
COST1J M E-
•.'.•••: ••::•••:••
••• -.•••
•Sfv
SAKEES.
41
1. COTTON. — COTTON BORDERS AND ENDS.
Of the specimens dealt with in the subjoined table, No. 188, Vol. V. is a good example of
an open-textured material, of a common quality, and Nos. 221 and 228, Vol. VI., afford
instances in which, although the thread is undyed, its arrangement is made to produce a
striped appearance.
Nos. 193, 194, 193) Vol. V., are of almost the coarsest kind of fabric made, and show
that the special ornamentation even of these is a matter which receives attention.
No. of
Description.
Measurement.
Weight
of piece.
Cost
Place of
Manufacture,
or where
obtained.
Vol.
Sample
Length.
Width.
yds. ins.
yds. ins.
Ibs. oz.
£ s. ,1.
•
V.
188
Cotton. Open texture. H-inch border in
8 27
1 7
1 62
030
Ooppaddy.
red and yellow thread, with slight Ivuttir
Bought in
pattern on inner edge. /. • principal end,
Madras.
one 2^-inch and one ^-inea cross stripe in
deep red with yellow lines. The opposite
end marked only by a ^-inch cross stripe
in red thread. Good example of a common
texture.
V.
193
Cotton, coarse, unbleached. Border, a faint
3 0
1 0
1 3
0 1 0
Coimbatore.
red line (! inch wide) near edge. The
Bought in
principal end ornamented with a 2-inch
Madras.
crimson cross stripe, two narrower stripes
of same colour, and nearer end a J-inch
cross stripe of blue. Opposite end also
marked by two cross stripes of crimson,
and one of blue. Used by the Burghers.
V.
194
Cotton, coarse, unbleached. Border, a faint
3 0
1 0
0 13
0 1 6
Bekul in
brown stripe near edge. Principal end
Canara.
marked by two narrow cross stripes of
reddish brownthreads. A stripe of similar
character in opposite end.
V.
195
Cotton, common material, unbleached. Bor-
6 0
1 0
1 7
0 1 9
Congeveram.
der, £-inch chocolate coloured stripe along
Bought in
edge. One 1\ inch and one \ inch red
Madras.
and yellow stripe across the principal end.
At opposite end a narrow stripe of red.
VI.
221
Cotton. Light texture, bleached. 1-inch
4 22
1 22
0 11
030
Calcutta.
stripes woven in the material. Border,
a 1^-inch stripe of crimson cotton
thread. In principal end a 1^-incb cross
stripe of crimson thread in the weft.
Opposite end marked by a -^-inch cross
stripe of blue thread. Borders of different
colours ; one red, and the other blue.
VI.
227
Cotton. Light texture. White and yellow
4 27
1 3
0 11
030
Calcutta.
stripes (1£ inch wide) woven in body of
garment. 11-inch border of red cotton, with
pattern figured in white thread. In each
end a ^-inch cross stripe of crimson thread
near the edge.
VI.
228
Cotton. Light texture. White, with coloured
4 32
1 2
0 12
030
Calcutta.
stripes woven in the body of the garment
\ inch wide and ^ inch apart. 1^-inch
border, red centre, dark blue and red
striped edges. Principal end, for about 17
inches, is of red thread in the weft. At
the opposite end a 1-inch faint cross stripe
in blue and red thread.
vni.
287
Plain white bleached Muslin called Chunder-
4 18
1 4*
0 6
0 2 7J
Calcutta.
kora. Slight border.
vni.
288
Ditto, ditto, ditto, ditto.
2 33
1 10
0 3£
020
Calcutta.
42 LOOM-MADE GARMENTS:
2. COTTON (MUSLIN). — GOLD END.
The specimens of Sarees, Nos. 283, 284, 285, Vol. VIII., form a remarkable contrast to
the preceding ones. They have no borders, and have been dealt with as a class on account
of the special ornamentation of their ends, into each of which a stripe of gold about an
inch wide had been inserted.*
They are from Chundeyree, and afford excellent examples of the beautiful fabrics for which
that old seat of native manufacture has been so long and so justly celebrated.f
The specimens are unbleached ; No. 284 is a plain material ; No. 283 is striped ; and No. 285
is chequered in the loom. Each has a stripe of gold, about an inch wide, at one end.
The lengths and widths of Nos. 283 and 284 are the same, viz., 14 yards and 30g inches
respectively, but 285 is an inch more each way. No. 283 weighs lOf ounces, and the other
two each 10^ ounces. The cost of each, in 1854, was the same, viz., ll. 13s. Qd.
Although silk is occasionally used to form borders and ends to plain cotton materials, no
examples occur in the series.
3. COTTON (MUSLIN). — COLOURED COTTON BORDERS ; COLOURED COTTON AND GOLD IN ENDS.
No. 189, Vol. V. A plain and rather coarse muslin. Border (2| inches) of red and yellow
cotton stripes, with a narrow line of same, ^ inch from inner edge. In principal end
a 2^-inch cross stripe of red cotton with -| inch centre of gold thread. Between this main
cross stripe and narrower ones of the same colour, the material is dotted with spots in
black thread. Secondary end marked merely by a few threads of red cotton. Length of piece,
8 yards 18 inches; width, 1 yard 9 inches; weight, 1 Ib. 4 oz. ; cost 6*. Qd. Woven at
Gangam; bought in Madras.
4. COTTON. — SILK BORDERS ; SILK AND GOLD IN END.
Example No. 173, Vol. V. A plain, light material; warp of unbleached thread, weft tinged
with blue. Border, 1J inch wide, of coloured cotton and crimson and yellow silk. 8i- inches of
principal end decorated with 2^-inch cross stripe of gold thread, and several figured stripes of
coloured thread and crimson silk. Opposite end marked only by a narrow cross stripe of
coloured thread. From Condapore, S. Canara, Madras. Length of piece, 7 yards ; width,
1 yard ; weight, 1 Ib. 3 oz. ; cost 10*.
5. COTTON. — COLOURED THREAD ; COTTON BORDERS.
In this group there are no special end patterns, the character of the border stripes rendering
these, perhaps, as a matter of taste less necessary.
* Although grouped with the Sarees these specimens more strictly speaking come under the denomination of
piece-goods — it being a by no means uncommon custom to ornament the ends of the finer kinds with the flattened
gold and silver wire called badla. The wire in such cases is not woven into the fabric, but is put in with the needle
— a special class of workmen being employed for the purpose.
f As in the case of Dacca, the manufacture of these prized cloths at Chuudeyree has of late been restricted to
the fulfilment of occasional orders.
The weavers are described as working in underground workshops, to secure a greater uniformity of moisture in the
air, which in the North-Western provinces is usually very dry. The cotton anciently used in the manufacture of the
Chundeyree muslins is stated to have been brought from Oomrawuttee, in Berar ; and the thread, when of fine quality,
was sold for its weight in silver.
We are informed by Captain Meadows Taylor that a similar class of yarn is spun in rooms or cellars carefully closed
and with the floors kept constantly watered, at Nandair, Dhunwarum, Narainpett, and other places near Hydrabad in
the Deccan.
SAREES.
43
No. 226, Vol. VI., is an example of one border — that allowed to come most prominently
into sight — being made considerably wider than the other.
No. of
Description.
MeasuremcMil.
Weight
of piece.
Cost.
Place of
Manufacture,
or where
obtained.
Vol.
Sample
Length.
Width.
yds. ins.
\ ds. ins.
Ibs. ox.
£ .v. </.
VI.
822
Open, gauze-like texture. Blue, with stripes
3 0
0 23
0 3
020
Calcutta.
(^ inch wide, and 1 inch apart) of red,
with white edges. Border (1 iuch) of red
striped with white, yellow, and blue.
Has merely a narrow (£ inch) stripe in
principal end.
VI.
'223
Open, gauze-like texture. Blue, with yellow
2 32
0 26
0
020
Calcutta-
stripes edged with white and red (f; inch
wide, and r;. inch apart). An inch border
of red, edged with green at the outer,
and with white, blue, and red lines at the
inner margins. A few threads of white in
both ends.
VI.
224
Open, gauze-like texture. A"arp of blue and
3 22 0 29
0 61
020
Calcutta.
yellow in stripes, ^ inch wide, and ^ inch
apart. Weft of crimson. Border, 1^ inch,
stripes of blue, orange, red, and green.
Narrow white stripe in each cud.
VI.
225
Open, gauze-like texture. Red, with J-inch
3 18 0 30
0 6
020
Calcutta.
stripes of green, with ^-inch centre of
yellow. Woven the full width. On each
side a striped border, 1^ inches wide, of
dark blue, with pink and white on outer,
and orange and white on inner, margin. A
^-inch stripe of yellow across each end.
VI.
226
Open, gauze-like texture. Dark blue warp,
3 18
0 29
0 6i
0 1 9
Calcutta.
crimson weft. Two borders of different
widths. One 11 inches wide with red
centre, and blue stripe on outer edge.
The other red, but only about 1 inch in
width.
VI.
229
Open, gauze-like texture. Light green we- ft
2 21
0 25
0 3
020
Calcutta.
and warp. 1-inch border of red, with
white lines. Narrow red stripe in principal
end.
6. COTTON. — COLOURED THREAD ; COTTON BORDERS AND END.
The examples in this group are described in the following table :—
No. of
Measurement.
Place of
Description.
Weight
of piece.
Cost
Manufacture
or •where
Vol.
Sample.
Length.
Width.
obtained.
yds. ins.
yds. ins.
Ibs. oz.
£ s. d.
V.
180
Cotton, yellow, striped with black lines £ inch
8 9
1 6
2 0
Coimbatore,
apart. Border (5 inches wide), red, with
Madras.
figured stripes of white in imitation of silver
lace. The principal end marked only bv
double cross lines of black similar to and
checking the general pattern stripe.
V.
181
Cotton, small blue and green check. Blue
7 9
1 4
1 8
053
Pondicherry.
thread weft, green thread warp. 2-inch
Bought in
yellow border. Principal end (11 inches)
Madras. ?
yellow, with narrow cross stripes of blue
and green. Opposite end (9^ inches) blue,
with T7jT-inch cross stripe of yellow. The
borders of different colours.
(3428.)
44
LOOM-MADE GARMENTS
No. of
Description.
Measurement.
Weight
of piece.
Cost.
Place of
Manufacture,
or where
obtained.
Vol.
Sample.
Length.
Width.
yds. ins.
yds. ins.
Ibs. oz.
£ s. d.
V.
182
Cotton, dark chocolate brown. White stripe
8 27
1 6
1 3
Arnee.
(^ inch) in border. One 2-inch and ten
Bought in
narrow cross stripes of white in principal end.
Madras.
One (^-inch) white stripe in opposite end.
V.
185
Cotton, yellow, striped with dark blue (jt-inch)
7 0
1 0
2 1
043
Poree Arnee.
lines £ inch apart. Yellow (3-inch) border,
Bought in
with inch stripe of purple and sundry black
Madras.
lines. Principal end for 15 inches marked
by dark blue cross stripes. Strong and
durable. Common pattern.
V.
186
Cotton, dark blue, striped with yellow. 1-inrh
3 18
0 27
0 10
0 1 3
Congeveram.
yellow border, with blue lines. Principal
Bought in
end, a 4-inch cross stripe of yellow, with
Madras.
^ inch centre of pinkish red thread. Com-
mon material and favourite colour.
V.
187
Cotton, dark blue, with ^-inch stripe of dull
7 0
1 0
1 10
023
Bellary.
red. Border (2-^-inch) formed by yellow
Bought in
and white stripes. The principal end for
Madras.
13 in. consists of yellow and blue cross stripes.
Opposite end marked by a small triple lined
cross stripe of yellow near the edge.
V.
190
Cotton, white, with dull red stripes £ inch
7 28
1 4
1 3
0 4 1
Arnee.
wide and 5 inch apart. Border (1-i-inch),
Bought in
red thread centre, with yellow edges. Princi-
Madras
pal end, a check pattern in red and white,
with cross stripe (2^-inch) in deep red and
yellow, and nearer end a ^-inch stripe, same
colours. Opposite end marked only by a
cross line consisting of a few red threads.
V.
191
Cotton, unbleached, with stripes of reddish tinted
5 27
1 0
1 6
039
Ventapollam.
threads ^ inch wide and ^ inch apart. Bor-
Bought in
der (|-iuch) chocolate colour, with yellow
Madras.
edge. In principal end a chocolate coloured
check, with a 3|-inch cross stripe in same
colour, and 3rellow thread lines. A small
chocolate coloured stripe across opposite end.
V.
192
A rather coarse muslin. A small check
9 0
1 9
2 0
056
Gangam.
formed by lines of a chocolate red colour.
Bought in
Border (J inch wide) a red and yellow stripe.
«
Madras.
Principal end marked by suspension of the
chocolate weft line of the pattern, and the
introduction of a number of narrow cross
stripes and one broad cross stripe of yellow.
In opposite end also the check pattern is
suspended for about 16 inches, and a single
cross stripe of a chocolate red colour woven
close to the end.
VI.
220
Cotton. Warp and weft red checked, with
5 16
1 2
1 2
-
Gya.
^ inch white stripes -^ inch apart in the warp,
and § inch apart in the weft. 6-inch
border of blue, striped at inner edge with
yellow. Twelve inches of each end marked
by absence of the cross stripes of the check
,
pattern, and occasional substitution of yellow
for the red in the weft.
7. COTTON. — COLOURED THREAD ; BORDER OF COTTON ; SILK IN END.
This group affords the first examples we have as yet seen of Sarees with deep ornamental
ends.
It will be observed that the end portion being only required for show, its texture is much
closer than that of the body of the garment. By this means the colours employed in the
ends are brought out more clearly, while the comfort of the wearer is not interfered with.
SMtlvES.
45
In one case (No. 179, Vol. V.) in order to form the end piece, the original warp threads
are entirely discontinued and a new warp is adroitly inserted.
No. of
Description.
Measurement
Weight
of piece'.
Cost.
Place of
Manufacture,
or where
obtained.
Vol.
Sample.
Length.
Width.
\ds. ins. yds. ins.
Ibs. ox.
£ s. d.
V.
165
lli'ddish chocolate ground, checked with white 7 27
1 2
1 2
0 12 6
Madras.
lines at intervals of half an inch. Border
(Scinches), figured pattern, woven in coloured
cotton thread. At' principal end, for 24
inches, a series of yellow silk cross stripes on
crimson cotton ground. The opposite end
plain chocolate colour, with one narrow cross
stripe of yellow.
V.
166
( liven, checked with orange yellow. Border
6 18
1 0
1 6
050
Sydapet,
(1$ inch wide), yellow, with green and white
Madras.
striped edges. At principal end, for about
19 inches, one 4-inch and several smaller
cross stripes of yellow and dark red silk. In
the opposite end the check disappears,
the warp stripe of yellow only being con-
tinued.
V.
167
Green, checked with orange yellow, same as
6 27
1 2
1 5£
049
Madras.
last. Border (1 -fa inch wide), yellow, edged
with blue. Principal end consists of cross
stripes in red and white, with 1-inch centre
stripe of white silk. Opposite end same as
No. 266.
V.
169
Red, checked with white. Striped borders
7 9
1 2
1 13
046
Mylapore,
(2 inches wide) of two different colours. At
bought in
principal end, several narrow stripes and one
Madras.
3£ inch cross stripe, all of yellow silk. Op-
posite end marked by a simple white cross
line close to the edge. As in No. 160, the
check pattern of the piece is changed near
the principal end into a stripe.*
V.
170
Crimson, with j'j-inch stripes, figured in white
7 27
1 2
1 7
0 12 0
Cuddalore,
thread, running from principal end for about
bought in
4^ yards only up the piece. Border (3 inch)
Madras.
of blue, striped with white and yellow warp
threads. About 10 inches of principal end
ornamented with one wide and a number of
narrow cross stripes of yellow silk. Opposite
end marked by a simple white cross line near
the edge.
V.
176
Dark red, striped with narrow double lines of
7 0
1 0
0 11
060
Madras.
white ^ of an inch apart. Border (l|-ineh)
yellow, faintly striped with green. At
19 inches from principal end, white stripes
cease, and the plain dark red ground is orna-
mented with a series of cross stripes of
various breadths in yellow silk.
V.
177
Chocolate red, checked by narrow lines of white
7 27
1 3
1 7
050
Ventapollam,
(^ inch apart). Border (1-inch) of yellow
bought in
cotton. Principal end has two cross stripes
Madras.
(one If and one f inch) of yellow silk with
green cotton. Opposite end marked by a
^-inch stripe of white.
V.
178
Warp, blue, with white stripes. Weft of red-
70 0 31 0 15
0 13 0
Combaco-
dish chocolate. Border (§ inch wide") of
num,
white thread. Principal end (17 inches),
bought in
consists of cross stripes of dark blue and
Madras.
white cotton, with two 1-inch stripes of white
silk, set off with blue and white cotton. Op-
posite end has merely a double cross line of
white.
* It will be observed that in some of the specimens it is the small portion of the material attached to the principal end sample •which shows
the pattern of the body of the piece. In the end which is worn out of sight, the weft colour, which produces the cheek, is stopped, thus leaving
the warp stripes uncrossed.
I 2
46
LOOM-MADE GARMENTS:
No. of
Description.
Measurement.
Weight
of piece.
Cost.
Place of
Manufacture,
or •where
obtained.
Vol.
Sample.
Length.
Width.
1
yds. ins.
yds. ins.
Ihe. oz.
£ *. d.
V.
179
Green, with /j-inch stripes, figured in white
7 27
1 2
1 7
0 12 0
Cuddalore,
thread, running up the piece for about
bought in
4f yards only. Border (3^ inch) in white
Madras.
and orange threads of gold and silver lace
pattern, of which the stripes in the body of
the piece are probably also an imitation.
About 32 inches of the principal end consists
of crimson cotton, ornamented with a series
of plain and figured cross stripes in yellow
silk. To form this end, the green, white, and
orange warp threads are discontinued, and a
new warp of crimson thread inserted. Oppo-
site end of plain green, marked only by a
narrow yellow stripe.
|
V.
183
Rose red, checked with dark blue. 1| inch
8 0
1 4
1 8
0 5 6
Sydapet,
yellow border. In principal end cross stripes
bought in
of yellow silk. Opposite end marked only by
Madras.
a narrow black and yellow cross stripe close
to edge.
V.
184
Dark blue. Large check, formed by narrow
8 0
1 3
1 12
039
Ventapollam
double-line stripes of yellow, with a flashed
bought in
white spot in centre of each check. Border
Madras.
(1| inch), yellow stripe. At principal end
two stripes of deep crimson silk with white
cotton. Close to edge a f-inch stripe of
yellow. At opposite end a few stripes of
yellow.
8. COTTON. — COLOURED THREAD ; SILK BORDERS ; SILK IN END.
No. of
Description.
Measurement.
Weight
of piece.
Cost.
Place of
Manufacture,
or where
obtained.
Vol.
Sample.
Length,
Width.
yds. ins.
yds. ins.
Ibs. oz.
£ s. d.
V.
171
Blue, striped with narrow line of white. Border
8 0
1 9
1 9
0 13 0
Man galore,
(2£ inch) of dark crimson silk, with two
bought in
white stripes in cotton. At principal end
Madras.
three broad cross stripes of dark crimson silk,
with two intervening stripes of blue and
white cotton. At opposite end a cross stripe
(1^ inch wide) of crimson.
VL
213
Plain chocolate colour. Border (4^ inches wide)
8 17
1 8
2 3
100
Belgaum,
of yellow and crimson silk. Principal end,
Bombay.
for 19 inches, of yellow silk, striped with the
chocolate cotton of the warp. At the oppo-
VI.
215
site end a 4^-inch cross stripe of yellow silk.
Dark blue. Border (3£ inch wide) in crimson
4 16
1 3
0 11
040
Surat, Bom-
silk, figured with white, blue, and yellow.
bay.
Yellow and crimson silk in principal end.
Yellow and white cotton cross stripes in
opposite end.
VI.
217
Chocolate, formed by dark crimson weft and
8 18
1 10
2 5
0 16 0
Belgaum,
blue warp. Border (5% inch) of yellow and
Bombay.
crimson silk, striped with black and white.
Sixteen inches of principal end marked by a
weft of yellow silk, with a few narrow cross
lines of black. 1-^-inch stripe of yellow silk
in opposite end.
SAKI 47
9. COTTON. — COLOURED THREAD ; SILK BORDERS ; SILK AND GOLD IN END.
In Nos. 168, Vol. V., and 216, Vol. VI., gold thread is introduced into the principal end.
The silk border of No. 216 affords, like many others from the Dharwar district, an excellent
example of quality.
As already stated, it is desirable that in the manufacture of these borders the weft
should not be seen through the silk.
No. 168, from Gangam, Madras, a dark red and blue check. Border (5 inch) dark crimson
silk, striped with white and yellow and orange silk. Principal end (14 inches) dark crimson
silk with four cross stripes of gold thread. Secondary end marked simply by cross stripes of
white thread. Length 8 yards, width 1 yard 8 inches, weight 1 Ib. 11 oz. ; cost I/. 6*. Od.
No. 216. Dark blue ; border (4^-inch) of crimson silk with figured stripes of green, white,
and yellow silk. Principal end (24 inches) of crimson silk with eight narrow cross stripes of
gold thread and white silk. Opposite end, for about 16 inches, of crimson silk, with two
1^-inch cross stripes in white silk.
Length, 8-2 yards ; width, 1 yard 10 inches; weight, 2 Ibs. 2 oz. ; cost, 21. 16*. Od.
From Belgaum, Bombay.
10. COTTON PRINT. — PRTNTED END.
Under this and the following head (11) are included the examples showing the application
of dyeing to the production of end or border patterns.*
No. 367-, Vol. X., from Arcot, Madras. Blue ground, with flowered pattern in dark brown,
red and white. A cross stripe at one end with flowered design on a chocolate ground.
Printed and glazed. Worn by Malay women over the head and shoulders only. Length,
3 yards ; width, 1 yard ; weight, 12 oz. ; price, 1*. 6d.
No. 371, Vol. X., from Madras, is bleached. Red flowered design enclosing a black sprig
of similar pattern. At one end a flowered and scroll pattern printed in red and black.
Length, 4i yards; width, 1 yard; weight, 15 ounces ; cost, 4s.
* Amongst the piece goods hereafter described we shall find numerous instances of prints which are cut
into the requisite lengths to form Sarees, but which are either worn without border and end ornaments, or
have these added.
48
LOOM-MADE GARMENTS
11. COTTON PRINT. — PRINTED BORDERS AND END.
Vol.
Sample.
Description.
Measurement.
Weight
of piece.
Cost.
Place of
Manufacture,
or where
obtained.
Length.
Width.
yds. ins.
yds. ins.
Ibs. oz.
£ s. d.
V.
196
Pink ground, with diagonal rows of small red
8 9
1 8
1 6
033
Arcot,
flower within dotted red lines ; 1^-inch
bought in
border in black and red. Principal end (21
Madras.
inches) ornamented with red and black
figured and flowered stripes, among which a
deep pine pattern is printed on a plain pink
ground.
V.
198
Coarse. Scarlet ground, with diagonal rows of
6 30
0 29
1 6
0 2 11
Cuddapah,
white spots (^ inch apart). Of principal end
bought in
(24 inches) the greater portion is of a bluish
Madras
black ground, dotted with red and white spots.
A flowered pine pattern is also introduced in
a 6-inch crimson cross stripe at both ends.
V.
199
Glazed chintz, flowered pattern, in colours.
2 9
1 14
0 12
—
Poonary,
Border (6 inches) flowered design in colours.
bought in
Twenty inches of end, chocolate colour, with
Madras.
(12 inch) flowered figures extending from
main design towards end of piece. Worn by
Malay women for covering shoulders and head.
Y.
200
Glazed chintz. A sexagonal pattern, white
2 9
1 14
0 12
—
Poonary,
and chocolate colour, enclosing a red flower
bought in
on a light brown ground. Border (6 inches)
Madras.
foliage and flower pattern in colours on
a black ground. Twenty inches of end,
chocolate colour ground, with (12-inch)
flowered figures, extending from main design
towards end of piece. Worn by Malay
women for covering the shoulders and head.
12. COTTON. DYED AND PRINTED ; GOLD BORDERS AND END.
Example No. 197, Vol. V., from Madras. Dark red ; diagonal rows of white spots,
with red tick in centre. Border of gold thread with Kutar pattern on inner edge. Across
principal end, three stripes of gold, of which the widest is an inch. Length, 6^ yards ;
•width, 27 inches ; weight, 8 ounces ; cost 6s.
13. COTTON AND SILK. — COTTON BORDERS ; SILK ENDS.
No. 208, Vol. VI., from Benares, is of crimson cotton with a figure in yellow silk, carried
obliquely across the piece. Border 3£ inches wide, with the body pattern repeated in it, but
with blue cotton occupying the place of the yellow silk. Principal end (13 inches) of blue
cotton with zigzag stripes in yellow silk, and at extreme end a ^-inch stripe of crimson.
About 38 inches of opposite end is also blue and of the same pattern, with an inch stripe of
red at the end. Length, 4 yds. 28 ins. ; width, 34 inches ; weight, 8£ ozs.
SAKKES.
49
14. COTTON AND SILK.— SILK BORDERS; SILK ENDS.
No. of
Description.
Measurement.
Weight
of ]>i
Cost.
Place of
Manufacture,
or where
obtained.
Vol.
Sample.
Length.
Width.
yds. ins.
yds. ins.
Ibs. oz. £ s. d.
V.
163
Chock of dark blue cotton and yellow silk.
70 10
1 5 046
.Madras.
Border (3£ inch) formed l>y modification of
body pattern. At each end cross stripes of
silk, same as that in check.
VI.
211
Dark blue cotton striped with lines of fine
7 32
1 .->
1 l:U
0 11 0
Belgaum,
yellow silk (9 to the inch) border (2 inch)
Bombay.
of yellow and crimson silk. Principal end
(12^ inches) yellow silk, with two stripes of
white silk, each f-inch wide. Opposite cud
marked only by a cross stripe of yellow silk
^-inch wide. A favourite style of pattern.
VI.
214
Dark blue cotton, checked by lines of gold-
8 0
1 6 1 14
1 0 0
Bolgaum,
coloured silk (8 to the inch in warp, 6 to the
Bombay.
inch in weft.) Border (44-inch) of crimson
with yellow silk at margin. Principal end
(18 inches) of rich orange-coloured silk, with
two cross stripes of white silk(l inch wide.)
Opposite end marked by a 2-inch cross stripe
of yellow silk.
VI.
219
Yellow silk and dark blue cotton stripe. Borders
7 27
1 9
2 4
1 8 0
Belgaum,
(2^-inches wide) of crimson silk, with figured
Bombay.
lines in white and yellow silk. The principal
end (26 inches) consists entirely of crimson
silk, with two 1^-inch cross stripes in white
silk ; the blue cotton and yellow silk of the
warp being discontinued to make room for the
new warp threads of crimson silk. Opposite
end marked by a §-inch stripe of crimson
across the main pattern.
15. COTTON AND SILK. — SILK BORDERS; SILK AND GOLD IN END.
Example No. 172, Vol. V., manufactured at Trichinopoly, but bought in Madras. Dark
crimson warp of silk ; blue cotton weft ; figured with small white flower. Border white silk
in imitation of silver lace. At principal end a stripe of gold thread with yellow and red silk
stripes at intervals. The secondary end has two stripes of yellow silk. Length of piece,
7| yards ; width, 1 yd. 5 ins. ; weight, 1 Ib. 7» oz. ; cost, ll. Is. Qd.
16. COTTON AND SILK. — GOLD IN BORDERS AND IN END.
Example No. 162, Vol. V., made at Tanjore, bought in Madras. Dark crimson ; striped
with silk of a golden-coloured yellow. Gold border extends for 2 yards from the end, the
rest being silk. Principal end (4£ inches) gold, flowered with coloured silks.
Length, 9 yards ; width, 1 yd. 2 ins. ; weight, 1 Ib. 3 oz. ; cost, ll. 5s. Qd.
50 LOOM-MADE GARMENTS
17- SILK AND COTTON, SILK BORDERS.
In this and the three following groups, the silk predominates over the cotton, so that
the fabric has the appearance of being almost entirely silk.
No. 209, Vol. VI., from Benares, warp of crimson and yellow silk in stripes. Weft of dark
blue cotton. Striped border of coloured silks.
This fabric and pattern is in common use among the Hindus. The sample has no end
ornament as is usual, but one in keeping with the piece itself might be added'with advantage.
Length, 9 yards 26 inches ; width, 30 inches ; weight, 1 Ib. 9i 6z.
18. SILK AND COTTON. — SILK BORDERS; SILK AND GOLD IN END.
No. 206, Vol. VI., from Nagpore, Berar, is of bright yellow silk, checked with blue and white
cotton. Border of crimson silk, with three figured stripes in green, white and yellow silks.
Principal end of coloured silk and cotton thread, with two 1^-inch and two ^-inch stripes of
gold thread.
Length of^iece, 8 yards 32 inches ; width, 1 yard 9 i inches ; weight, 1 Ib. 7oz. ; cost, 21. 2s.
19. SILK AND COTTON. — GOLD IN BORDERS ; GOLD IN END.
No. 207, Vol. VI., from Nagpore, Berar, is a gauze-like material, and the warp consists
of yellow and dark crimson silk. Weft, yellow silk and dark crimson coloured cotton.
The borders, crimson silk with gold flowered pattern. In principal end two stripes of gold
thread. In opposite end two stripes of white cotton thread.
Length, 9 yards 8 inches ; width, 1 yard 9 inches; weight, 1 Ib. 3^oz. ; cost, 21. 18s.
20. SILK. — SILK BORDERS AND END.
This group is represented by No. 174, Vol. V., and No. 210, Volv VI.
The former comes from Tanjore, Madras, and is of a deep crimson silk checked with white silk.
The borders are 7|- inches wide, 3 inches being woven in silk in imitation of gold and silver
lace, the rest consisting of coloured and figured stripes. The figured stripes at the principal
end in this instance extend only to the inner edge of the border which runs through the whole
length of the piece. These stripes are green and white, and orange and white alternately, with
two rows of small pines in white floss silk. Rather more than a yard of the secondary end
consists of coarse yellow silk, with stripes of crimson and white. Length of piece, 8 yards ;
width, 1 yard 3 inches ; weight, 1 Ib. 6 oz. ; and cost \l. 5s.
No. 210, Vol. VI., from Belgaum, in Bombay, is of yellow silk, striped with crimson.
The border is of crimson silk, figured with stripes of yellow, white and crimson. One green
'
*s
I^TJSLHsTS, SXLIC, &c.
\
SAIIKES.
51
line in the border is of cotton. Principal end marked by two li-inch cross stripes of white
silk.
Length, 7 yards 30 inches; width, 1 yard 6 inches; weight, 1 Ib. 15 oz. ; cost, \l. Qs.
21. SILK. — SILK ENDS ; NO BORDERS.
The examples of this description of garment are included in the following table and all
come from Burnmh. The patterns and character of the manufacture arc peculiar and differ
from most of the productions of India proper. The silk used appears to be of fair quality
and to be well dyed.
Vol.
Sample.
Description.
Measurement.
Weight
of piece.
Cost.
Place of
Manufacture,
or where
obtained.
Length.
Width.
yds. ins.
yds. ins.
Ibs. oz.
£ s. il.
XIV.
543
Silk, with angulated stripes figured in orange,
8 28
0 24!,-
1 1}
—
Pegu.
white, yellow, green, and crimson. Woven
in plain stripes at centre and ends, the
piece being cut in two and sewn together
at sides to form garment.
XIV.
544
Silk. Pattern (somewhat similar to, but less
8 28
0 251
1 2i
—
Pegu.
elaborate than last-named example) in
orange, yellow, white, green, and red, on a
dark green ground. About 22 inches of
principal end and 11 inches of opposite
end, woven in plain stripes of colours same
as in body pattern, last example.
XIV. 545
Silk. Pattern, angulated stripes figured in
8 30
0 25
1 4
—
Pegu.
green, yellow, and crimson, on a white
ground, very similar in character to the
figure of 543, 544. About 20 inches of
the principal end, and 15 of opposite end
woven in plain coloured stripes.
XIV.
547
Silk. Plain white, green, and crimson
9 0
0 24
1 131
—
Pegu.
stripes. In about 19 inches of end broad
cross stripes of white and green 2£ inches
wide.
22. SILK. — SILK BORDERS ; GOLD IN END.
Measurement.
Place of
Vol.
Sample.
Description.
Weight
of piece.
Cost.
Manufacture,
or where
Length.
Width.
obtained.
yds. ins.
yds. ins.
Ibs. oz.
£ a. d.
V.
164
White, figured check towards principal end but
8 18
1 12
1 15
3 10 4
Berhampore,
plain at opposite one. Border (2| inches) of
Gangam,
red and yellow silks with " Kutar " pattern in
Madras.
the inner edge. In principal end (23 inches)
cross stripes of crimson figured silk with
yellow silk and gold thread ; terminating with
one gold laced stripe 2£ inches wide, and one
2^-inch stripe of crimson figured silk and
gold. At opposite end a 1^-inch cross stripe
of crimson silk and a double line of same
.
colour nearer end.
(3428.)
52
LOOM-MADE GARMENTS
Vol.
Sample.
Description.
Measurement.
Weight
of piece.
Cost.
Place of
Manufacture,
or where
obtained.
Length.
Breadth.
yds. ins.
yds. ins.
Ibs. oz.
£ s. d.
V.
175
Deep crimson silk. Large check pattern
8 0
1 7
1 4
1 10 0
Combaconum,
formed by small white silk flashed spots in
Madras.
diagonal rows 1-| inch apart. The borders
(2f inches) are woven in coloured silks of a
-
gold and silver lace pattern. In the principal
end (29 inches) is a series of figured cross
stripes in white, green, and yellow silk with
two rows of white silk flashed spots of an
arrow-headed shape. There are also two
stripes of gold on crimson within 4 inches of
end. The opposite end is plain deep crimson
silk of inferior quality with a single ^-inch
cross stripe of yellow.
VI.
205
Yellow and green silk check small. Border
8 29
1 12|
1 41
3 10 0
Nagpore,
(6^ inches) of crimson silk, with yellow,
Berar.
green, and white figured stripes. In principal
end (28 inches) the weft stripes of the check
are discontinued, and narrow cross stripes of
green introduced at intervals of !•£ inches,
except in extreme end which consists of a
9-inch stripe of gold thread with flowered
edges of coloured silks. Opposite end marked
for 5 inches by crimson cross stripes and
by modification of check pattern.
VI.
212.
Green, striped with crimson. Border (3 inches)
9 16
1 6
2 0
380
Belgaum,
of crimson silk figured with white silk stripes.
Bombay.
Principal end (19 inches) plain crimson silk,
«/
with two 2^-inch cross stripes of gold thread,
and, nearer end, a ^-inch gold stripe. To
form this end, crimson is substituted for the
green of the warp as well as for the weft.
Opposite end (15 inches) marked by modifica-
tion of main pattern.
XXIII. — SILK. GOLD BORDERS; GOLD IN END.
No. 161, Vol. V., from Tanjore, Madras, is a gauze material, checked in yellow and
crimson. A laced border (5f inches wide) of gold thread and coloured silks, extends
only seven feet down the piece, the rest of the saree being plain silk.
At the principal end there is a broad stripe of gold thread, with four large flowered figures
(pine shaped) in coloured silks in it, and there are six smaller but similar figures in an inner
stripe.
Length, 8 yards 32 inches ; width, 1 yard 7 inches ; weight, 1 Ib. 8f oz. ; piice 41. 10s.
KERCHIEFS.
53
II. KERCHIEFS FOR HEAD AND SHOULDERS.
Although, as already described, the end of the saree is made to act as a covering for
the head, we find in many instances that kerchiefs are specially used for this purpose.
Fig. 28, PI. V., affords an illustration of the manner in which these are occasionally worn,
fastened like a turban with one end falling loose behind. Sometimes they are worn shawl
fashion, falling over the shoulders as shown on the female No. 26, PI. V.
The details given in the table below indicate the character of some of the articles thus
employed.
Vol.
Sample.
Description.
Measurement.
W eight
of piece.
Cost.
Place of
Manufacture,
or where
obtained.
Length.
Breadth.
yds. ins.
yds. ins.
Ibs. oz.
£ *. <l.
X.
361
Cotton. Crimson ground, check ^ inch dark
0 35
0 33
0 2$
0 O 8
Coonathoor,
blue stripe ^ inch apart. Border on each
Madras.
side formed by modification of pattern. A
piece comprises eight kerchiefs.
X.
362
Cotton. Bright green and crimson Tartan-
0 30
0 28
0 3f
0 0 7!
Coonathoor,
looking pattern. Fast colours. Eight
Madras.
woven in a piece, similarly to the last
example.
X.
363
Cotton. Check pattern. Main check stripe
1 0
1 0
0 3f
0 0 71
->
dark brown, with supplemental check of
red. Border on each side formed by modi-
fication of pattern. Eight woven in :i
piece. The glaze obtained by rubbing the
surface of the fabric with a chank shelL
X.
364
Cotton. White and black check. Borders
1 0
1 0
0 3J
0 0 7£
\Trtntn
formed by modification of pattern. Eight
woven in a piece. Like last sample, glazed
by means of a chank shell.
v enta-
>• pollam,
Mildru.-.
X.
365
Cotton. Check pattern in red, white, and
1 0
1 0
0 31
0 0 7£
blue. Borders formed by modification of
main pattern. G-lazed by rubbing with a
chank shell, as in two previous samples.
X.
366
Cotton. Check pattern, white ground with
1 0
1 0
0 3£
0 1 1|
dark blue shaded stripes. Borders formed
by modification of main pattern. Glazed
by rubbing with a chank shell
1st size.
Large size
XII.
461
Cotton. Plain with J-inch stripe of red
0 27 0 27
0 1 6
Cundapore,
thread in border. Made in two sizes.
2d size.
Cauara,
0 23 0 23
of eight
of eight
xn.
462
Cotton. (Plain bleached Calico) with a
0 29
0 29
1 1
046
Miisulipatum,
f-inch flowered border printed in red and
Madras.
black.
K 2
54 PIECE GOODS.
PIECE-GOODS.
We have now to consider the varieties of piece-goods employed in the manufacture of
made-up articles of dress. The needle is required for the conversion into clothing of a
large proportion of the fabrics now to be described; but it must be kept in mind that a
proportion by no means insignificant is used for Loongees, Dhotees, and Sarees — that is for
the scarf-like garments already described — by being simply cut to the proper lengths, in a
few instances ornamental borders and ends being sewed on.*
MADE-UP GARMENTS.
The articles of attire which we have now to notice are those in which the material has
been made to assume various shapes, more in accordance with our European notions of
clothing.
We shall in the first instance refer to made-up head-dresses. Commercially speaking,
however, these are not important, the quantity of material required for their manufacture
being but small. Although the loom-made turban already described forms an important piece
of native dress, it does not constitute the only head-dress of the people. On the contrary,
among a population comprising innumerable tribes and castes, it may naturally be expected
that coverings for the head will be found of every variety of material, form, and ornamentation,
— some elegant and some perhaps almost grotesque.
1. MADE-UP HEAD-DRESSES.
The skull-cap, made up from various materials, is a common form of head-dress, and
is often worn temporarily as a substitute for the more elaborate turban.
Many of the Brahmins in Bhagulpore and also in the South of India, wear a cap of
dyed cotton cloth, which sits close to the head and descends with two flaps over the ears ;
an ugly looking affair, which however, is stated to be the original head-dress of the sacred
order.f
Mahomedans sometimes wear the Taj, a small conical cap of muslin ; and the Brahmins
of Sind use the Arak-cliin, an article of the smoking-cap style, made of white or coloured
cotton, and also the Col, a cap lined with cotton, with a knob on the top. In the de-
coration of the skull-cap and smoking-cap forms of head-dress, the Sind Embroiderers produce
very effective and tasteful designs, worked in gold, silver, or coloured floss silks, on cloth
or velvet ; while in Cashmere and Loodianah the shawl pattern and shawl material are often
employed. The most gorgeous form of head-dress known in India is probably the bulky
Topee, formed entirely of gold and silver cloth, and adorned with precious stones. These
are made by the Embroiderers of Lucknow, Delhi, and Benares, and are worn only by
natives of the highest rank, forming a portion of the Dress of Honour which is sometimes
presented to persons of distinction by the princes of native courts.
* Sewing and embroidering in India is chiefly practised by men, and these in the Northern provinces are mostly
Mahomedans, the larger demand on the part of the people of that persuasion for this class of articles having
naturally led to their greater expertness as workmen. In the Central and Southern provinces, however, they are
nearly exclusively Hindus.
t Buchanan in Martin's " Eastern India." Vol. II. p. 93.
MADE-VP (iAUMEXTS.
Among the examples of piece goods in this work are classed certain specimens of chintzc--.
with a peculiar dotted pattern. These are used in making up the mitre-shaped hat of
the Parsee, a form of turban frequently recognisable in the busy quarters of London.
This peculiar head-dress is made of pasteboard, or other similar stiff and light material, upon
which the chintz is stretched and fastened.
The Si/i(tt< Topee is a cylinder, like an inverted hat, with the brim at the top, and is
produced in a variety of colours.
The Moplas of Malabar wear a stiff cap made of twisted silk thread, or of pasteboard,
and around this a Rumal (or shawl kerchief) is sometimes wound.
Fur caps are also occasionally worn in cold weather, in lieu of the turban or other
lighter head-dress — Mahomedan gentlemen using embroidered otter skin (Sumber-topi), and
Persians the soft black lambskin of Bokhara.
Wool and felt are used in the North and North \V The Guddees, in the
Transutlej Division, wear a peculiar conical cap of wool, with long flaps to protect the ears,
the front being often decorated with dried flowers, gay feathers, or red seeds threaded like
strings of beads. At Simla, the Kunyts wear felt hats and caps, which are sometimes
rendered more attractive by the addition of coloured cloth.*
As we have already stated, as a rule, there is no special or made-up head-dress in use
among the women of Hindustan, — the end of the Saree or a kerchief being ordinarily
employed as a covering for the head. To this, however, there are exceptions, the embroidered
skull-cap being occasionally used ; whilst in some less civilised parts of the country, as in
Kooloo for instance, we find the ladies wearing a small quilted cap of gay chintz, which is
adorned with broad chains of berries, beads, and coarse turquoises, and amulets of enamel
or china work. This elaborate combination, like the European bonnet of the present day, helps
to keep in its place the back hair which the owner intertwines with a roll of wool.
2. MADE-UP BODY CLOTHING.
Of articles coming under this head a good general notion will be acquired by examining
the illustrations contained in this work.
In Plates I., II., III., IV. the made-up articles shown are (with one exception, No.
PI. IV.), almost entirely of cotton.
In Plate VII. (facing p. 140) coarser woollen fabrics and skins are the materials cm-
ployed ; -whilst in PI. VIII. (facing p. 118) we find garments made of the finer woollen cloths,
and of Kincobl or gold brocade. To the Cashmere shawls which are worn with these
brocades, special reference will elsewhere be made.
The standing figure to the left of the centre group No. 4, PI. I. (facing p. 14),
and that to the right, No. IS, PI. III. (facing p. 22), afford examples of the short Hindu
jacket with long, loose sleeves — the material of both is ordinary calico, the second being
quilted for use during the cold season.
It will be observed that in the instance in which the front of the jacket is in view
the fastening is on the right side. The Hindu fastens his jacket on the right side, while
the Mahomedan fastens his on the left, and the two nationalities may almost invariably
* The chief of the Kirghiz tribes at Semipalatinsk. is said to wear a brown conical Lat, turned up at the -
the description indicating a form somewhat like that of the felt icidc-airake in use in this county.
f As previously stated on the authority of Buchanan (Martin's "Eastern India," Vol. II., p. 699), the needle
seems to have been, before the Mahomedan invasion of India, "totally unknown to the Hindu?."
1 Kinkhaub is the more correct spelling, but Kincob is the term now commonly used.
56 PIECE GOODS.
be thus known the one from the other, even when the dress, as often happens, is of the
same shape and material.*
Fig. 21, PI. III., shows the ordinary long calico coat now worn by the great majority of
well-to-do Hindus. In form this differs but little from the long but somewhat more ample
garment which Mahomedans wear.
The standing figure to the left of the group in the centre of PI. II., and the figures
No. 20, PI. III., and 24, 25, PL IV. (facing p. 32), afford additional examples of this article
of dress. In the note below will be found the names and descriptions of other garments
of the same class either used as upper or as under clothing.f
* That in these Jays, however, there are exceptions to this rule evidence is afforded by the standing figure in the
group of Mahomedans — so called in the description which accompanied the original photograph — engaged in the
favourite game of chess, in the centre of PI. II., in which the coat is tied on the right instead of on the left side.
•(• Koorta. This is a loose shirt or under gown worn both by Hindus and Mahomedans. A kind of muslin,
called Kumecs (from the Arabic word Gumecs, a shirt), manufactured at Dacca, is used for making the finer
qualities of this garment. (" Cotton Manufactures of Dacca.")
Angarkha, Ungurhha, Angrakha, &jc. These names, undoubtedly identical, have been assigned to garments
of different characters. Thus one writer states the Angarkha to be a sort of shirt worn under the Jama and
tied in two places on each side of the body ; and a close observer of details — Buchanan — says that the Angrakha
is a short calico vest with sleeves resembling the Anyga which descends only to the haunches ; he states also
that the garment, instead of being fastened on both sides, is tied on one side only, viz., on the right by the
Hindu, and on the left by the Mahpmcclan.
Another writer informs us that the Ungurkha is a long-skirted gown with long sleeves and closed or covered
breasts.
Minah and Angga. The Minah is made of muslin, has' sleeves, and is tied across the breast. It descends to
below the calf of the leg, and is worn by male Mahomedans in hot weather. The Angga is not so long,
teaching only to the haunches, and is worn in place of the Minah.
Mirzaee. An under jacket with long loose sleeves and open cuffs, woni under the Kuba by respectable
Mahomedans and by upper servants in European employ.
Kufcha. An open jacket, differing from the Mirzaee in having tight sleeves.
Kuba. A long close sort of gown worn by Mahomedans and Hindus. It differs from the Ungurkha in being
open-breasted, and is worn over the Mirzaee or Koorta.
Kaba. Probably same as the Kuba. Described as having very wide sleeves and reaching to the knees.
Worn by Mahomedans in place of the Jama.
Jama or Jamo. These names would appear to be given to the outer or dress gown in general wear, in the
same manner as the term Ungurkha is applied to the under-gown or shirt in its different forms. Buchanan
calls the Jamah an outer coat of same fashion and material as the Minah, but descending to the feet, and
states that it forms part of the Mahomedan costume in hot weather. Another writer describes it as having a
double-breasted body with loose skirts gathered in close plaits at the waist, and says that it is worn by the
higher classes at native courts. In this form it was the ancient court dress of Delhi, where the original Persian
(Moghul) pattern was never altered.
Jaguli. Mr. Batten, in his report on Kumaon and Gurwhul, describes this as a Jama reaching to the knees.
Chupkan. A long-skirted gown resembling the Ungurkha and the usual dress of respectable male domestics,
both Hindu and Mahomedan.
Duglce, Dvglo. Coats worn by Hindu, Parsee, and Mahomedan males of Western India. The Duglo is of cloth.
Ulba-Jooblia. The Arabian and Persian cloak worn over all other garments. Open in front, and much
resembling the English boat-cloak.
T^lbada. A wide great coat worn by male Hindus.
Jora. The Mahomedan dress suit, — comprising,
1. The Dustar or Turban.
2. The Nimah.
3. The Jamah.
4. The Kummerbund.
5. The Izar.
MADE-UP GARMENTS. 57
After the jacket or long coat, the article next in importance is the PAKJAMA or TROWSER.
It is worn by both sexes, and although its use is as yet greatly confined to the Mahomcdan
part of the population, the younger members of the Hindu community in the larger
towns are beginning to adopt it. In most parts of the country the Dhotee is invariably
worn under it. As a riding dress the Hindus wear trowsers, but always with the Dho/rc
underneath.
Some Rajput women are said to wear long drawers like the Mahomedans ; their use
amongst Hindu ladies however, is extremely limited.
The Paejama * is variously made, sometimes wide and free and sometimes tight at the
leg and ankle.
The male figures 24 and 25, PI. IV., and the standing figure to left of the centre group
30 in PI. V. (facing p. 40) illustrate the first ; whilst the figure to the right in same group,
and the stalwart devotee, No. 17, PI. III., show the latter form; the last-named figure also
shows a mode of fastening by means of a string tied round the waist.f
Although amongst the female r>.irt of the community the use of the trowser is almost
entirely confined to those of the ..loslem persuasion, we find that the petticoat or skirt,
though also of Mahomedan origin, is frequently worn by Hindu women along with the
Saree.%
Fig. 26, PI. V. illustrates what may be termed the simplest form of petticoat. As
a rule, it is a garment which is kept within more moderate dimensions than in European
countries, but there are instances in which it consumes as many as 60 yards§ of material
in the making. It is allowed however to hang in thick dense folds, without, any attempt
at expansion by mechanical means. The skirt or petticoat shown on the prim-looking dancing
girl, No. 31, PI. V,, is of this class. ||
* Although this term (Paejama), literally leg-clothes, has come to be of pretty general application, strictly
speaking it applies only to the loose variety. In the north and cast of India the Paejama is for the most part loose.
In the central and southern provinces the Paejama is generally tight. By the Mahomedans of Arcot and Southern
India generally, a peculiar form of Paejama is used which bulges out at the sides like the European " peg-top " trowsers.
Izar is in some districts the distinctive name of the kind used by men, and Turwar that used to indicate the
tight-fitting female trowser, of which the standing figure to right of group 30, in the centre of PI. V. (facin°- p. 40)
affords an illustration. Shalwar and Gurgi are two names likewise in use ; the former referring to Ion1* and
the latter to short trowsers or drawers tight at the knee and full above.
f The strings used for this purpose are frequently of a very ornamental character, made of silk net-work like
our military sashes, with gold tassels, &c.
| Buchanan states (Op. Cit., Vol. II., p. 417) that widows of pure birth are not allowed to use the petticoat,
but that those of low caste may.
§ In the India Museum there are two dress-skirts, the one of red and the other of white muslin, which measure
respectively 103 and 180 feet in circumference.
|| Lahangga, Luhinga, Ghagra, and Peshgecr are terms used to designate the skirt or petticoat.
Peshwaz is the name of a Mahomedan dress reaching to the ankle, and is usually of coloured muslin. The upper
portion to the waist is similar to the full dress Jama, the lower portion being as much frilled as the waistband will
carry. The lower part of the skirt is trimmed with bands and flounces of gold lace, and silver and gold tissue ; the
upper portion being also richly ornamented. This dress is worn by Mahomedan brides, and by Mahomedan ladies
on occasions of household festivals ; and it forms the invariable costume of Mahomedan dancing women, or of Hiudun
who dance in the Mahomedan style.
Peswaj, however, is given by Buchanan as the name of a gown with sleeves, which reaches to the heels worn
by Mahomedan ladies.
58 PIECE GOODS.
A kind of bodice or close-fitting jacket, of varying dimensions, is now almost universally
used by Hindu women. There are, however, one or two districts in which, as before
stated, no special needle-made covering for the bosom is worn by respectable Hindu
women.
The most common form of the bodice worn by Hindu and Mahomedan women, con-
sists of a closely-fitting jacket with short sleeves*, either merely covering the breast or
having a back attached to it as well. In the first case the bodice ties behind and the front
does not open. In the second, with a back, the ends of the bodice tie in front under the
breasts. Another variety of the jacket termed Koortee reaches nearly to the waist and some-
times lower, and has very short sleeves. It is worn by Mahomedan women and is frequently
used over the former.
Fig. 33, PL V., gives a fair idea of the Choice or first variety of bodice, but the sleeves, as
there shown, are shorter than is usual among Hindus.
Of the Koortee or Mahomedan jacket, with its characteristic short sleeve, no illustration
is given.
The figures 34, PI. V., and those in 35, PI. VI. (facing p. 50), show the Choice sleeve
as most commonly worn by Hindu ladies. As a general rule the sleeve of the Mahomedan
cholee reaches less than half-way from the shoulder to the elbow, whereas the Hindu sleeve
usually extends just below the elbow.
Our general remarks on the costumes of the people of India may now be considered to be
nearly completed — a few observations regarding the application of made-up woollen materials
only remaining to be made.
Accordingly, we shall now proceed to describe the cotton, silk, and other piece goods
employed in the manufacture of the class of garments to which reference has just been
made, and in dealing with this part of our subject we shall commence with the finer before
proceeding to the coarser materials, though many of the last are, commercially, of most
importance.
* Called Kachuree in some dialects of Western India ; the term Cholee, although strictly applicable to that
which has a back, is the one commonly used.
Kupissa or Kupassa is the name given to the bodice in Mysore, &c.
Buchanan describes the Anggiya as a bodice with very short sleeves, which reaches to the waist, is made
of muslin, and is worn under the Peswaj. The Koortee, by the same authority, is also referred to as having been
introduced into Behar from the west.
The Ungia, as worn with the petticoat, is closed in front and ties behind. The Cholee, worn with the Saree, 011 the
contrary, is tied in front and closed behind.
Captain Meadows Taylor, to whom we are indebted for some valuable notes under this head of our subject, endorses
Buchanan's statement, that before the Mahomedan conquests, the bodice, and other needle-made articles were unknown
in India.
DACCA MUSLINS. 59
DACCA MISLIXS.
As under this head we shall have occasion to notice the famed and still valued productions
of the Dacca loom, we shall here take the opportunity of making some general remarks
regarding their Jincness.
It has long been a subject of interest and doubt whether the finest Dacca muslins have
ever been equalled or surpassed by the machine-made muslins of Europe.
An answer has been given to the question by the British manufacturer, who alleges that
the hand-spinner of Dacca has produced nothing so fine as some of the examples produced
by his machinery. It was asserted, and it has been generally accepted as true, that in the
Exhibitions of 1851 and 1862 there were muslins of European make which were finer than
anything shown there from India.
Whatever be the state of the case, however, as regards the contest between Dacca and
European muslins, quoad actual fineness, this at least seems clear — and it is admitted, we
believe, by all — that as regards ajiparciif fineness India bears the palm. It is said that
this is explained by a greater compression of the thread, depending on the peculiar mode
of spinning, and by a consequent lessening of its diameter.
We do not think that this fact should be lost sight of. Apparent fineness, of course, is
not actual fineness ; but actual fineness loses much of its value by seeming coarse. Whether
the muslins which disputed with Dacca for the prize were or were not really the finer, it was
admitted by our best judges in such matters that they seemed not to be so.
In dealing with a vexed question of this kind the first thing to be done is to examine the
way in which the relative fineness of the different muslins is practically determined and stated.
We cannot show this better than by quoting from a letter which we received from Mr. H.
Houldsworth, in February 1864 : —
" It may be useful to repeat here the formula for ascertaining the fineness of yarn
when woven. In England it is designated bij the number of liankx in one pound weight of
7,000 grs. A hank is 840 yards, or 30,240 inches. The first step is to count the number of
threads of warp and weft in one square inch. This is usually done by the weaver's magni-
fying glass, which, through an opening of i inch, brings the threads in that space distinctly
into view. Thus the specimen A B (muslin from Arnee, Madras) counts 40 threads each
way in i inch, or 80 threads in 1 inch of warp, and 80 of weft, showing that each square
inch contains 160 inches of yarn.
Thus the sq. ins. in the piece X 160
30 240 " = "anks in tne piece ;
and, as the wt. of the piece in grains : the hanks : : 7,000 : No. of the yarn.
Then for A B (the length of which is 15 yds. 18 inches, the width 1 yd. 16 inches,
Sq. ins. piece. Thds. p. inch. inch.
and the weight 6891 grs.), 29016 Xj_60^X7000_ ^ , ,fts „
y0240~X 6891grs. :
Nothing can be more clear or simple than the process here described, but it is, at the
same time, very evidently one into which error may easily creep. For instance, if we take
two specimens of the same muslin — halving a piece, for example — and if we starch and
dress the one half, and leave the other unstarched, by following the manufacturer's method
of determining fineness, we shall arrive at the startling conclusion that it is two things at
(3428.) L
60 PIECE GOODS.
once — that the yarn of which it is all made is of two distinct qualities. It will be seen
that the whole process depends on the determination of the length of yarn in a given weight
of cloth ; but it is clear that this length will be the same before starching as after, while
the weight, on the other hand, will be very different ; and this will, of course, affect the
estimate of the fineness, and it may do so to a very serious extent.
In the case of the Arnee muslin, which formed the subject of the above calculation, we
found the loss in weight, after careful washing, to be 23 per cent., and it would in con-
sequence have the No. of its yarn raised from 156 before washing to 203 after washing.
In ascertaining the comparative fineness, therefore, of different woven yarns, this process
cannot be safely employed, unless the sizing or starching has been carefully removed from
all the specimens examined and compared.
So also it will almost certainly lead to erroneous conclusions if in one muslin the fineness
is estimated before, and in another after the yarn is woven. In the first case we find how
many hanks or lengths of 840 yards there are in 7,000 grains of yarn, and in the other how
many like lengths there are in 7)000 grains of the fabric. But this last will not, or may not,
represent 7>000 grains of yarn, but that weight of a mixture of yarn and size.
Now it so happens that in assigning those numbers to European muslins which represent
their fineness, they have been computed from the yarns before weaving, but the numbers
for the Dacca muslins, on the other hand, have always been computed from the fabrics.
These last are not nearly so heavily starched as fine European muslins generally are, but
still a certain proportion of their weight does consist of size. And this fact has only to be
stated to show that the two sets of estimates, when used for purposes of comparison, cannot
tell the truth of the matter. If the numbers assigned to Dacca muslins be computed from
the examination of the finished fabric, so ought also those for the European — and even then
we must take the further and absolutely necessary precaution of having both sets of specimens
carefully washed.
Feeling that this dispute as to superiority was really an unsettled thing, we resolved to
try to throw some light on it by another mode of inquiry. It was thought this might be
done l>y a series of determinations of the diameter of the thread, the number of filaments
in it, and the diameter of the Jilaments themselves. Such measurements could only be
ascertained by the aid of the microscope in the hands of persons accustomed to its use, and
such assistance was accordingly sought.
Four muslins were selected — two of European and two of Dacca make. Of the European,
one was the best exhibited in 1851,* and the other the best exhibited in 1862.f Of
those from Dacca, one was the best exhibited in 1862, and the other a still finer one from
the India Museum.^
Each specimen was divided into several portions — and these were given to two skilled
observers, who were not told that among the samples sent for examination there were any
duplicates. This course was adopted in order to have a thorough test of accuracy in a
large comparison of results. Ten sets of measurements for each portion of each specimen
were made. In only one case was the discrepancy such as to lead us to conclude that the
* Numbered in the Catalogue of the Exhibition as 540s. Of the accuracy of this No., however, there is good
reason for doubt.
f Numbered in Catalogue of the Exhibition, 44.0s. Muslia, manufactured by M. Thivel Michon, of Tavare,
from yarn made by II. Houldsworth and Co., of Manchester.
J As calculated from the piece these gave 380 and 406 as the Nos. of their yarn.
DACCA MUSI/ l.Ns.
61
observer had made a mistake, probably by an accidental change of sample at one stage of
the measurements. The general results bear intrinsic evidence of substantial accuracy — a
conclusion which we think a careful examination of the following table will bear out : —
Description
Diameter of Threads.
(Part* of an inch.)
Number of Filaments
in Thread.
Diameter of Filaments in
Thread in part* of an im h.+
Minimum.
Maximum.
Mean.
Mini-
mum.
Maxi-
mum.
Mean.
Minimum.
Maximum
Mean.
•'rench muslin, manufactured by M.
1st sample
•1)02(1
•(KI40
•008000*
5
12
8'5*
•00036
•00100
•00068*
Mirhou.of l.avare.from thread
•-'ml ditto
•0015
•003
• 002200
8
21
12-7
•oooso
•00075
•000618
of 44d's, spun by Thomas Houlds-
3rd ditto
•110125
•ooa
•002025
7
18
11-7
•oooffo
•00087
•000887
worth & Co. Shown at the Inter-
4th ditto
•001S
•008
•008350
10
20
15-5
•00037
•00087
•000625
national Exhibition of 1SU2.
."ith ditto
•0015
•003
•002225
y
M
15-8
• )-,()
• is 7
•in 10687
Mean -
—
—
•OO2Z2O
—
—
13-8
—
—
0006427
;ngIMi Muslin, staled to be of run's
1 st sample
•0032
•0025*
7
14
in-:,*
• 00030
• 00084
•00057*
yarn. Exhibited in International
2nd ditto
•00175
•008
•003 IS
9
n
n;-7
•00050
•00075
•ooo.'.:..
Exhibition of is.">i.
:ird ditto
•OOUJ
•00215
7
22
«•«
• 00037
•00075
•OOO'iOii
Mean -
—
—
•OO21C7
—
—
14-9
—
—
•OOO539
^Dacca muslin, Mulmul Khas from
1st sample
•0014
• 0032
•0023*
o
12
8-5*
•00030
•00102
• 00066*
India Museum.
2nd ditto
•001
•0025
•001636
5
14
9-2
•00062
•00125
•00080
!. 4 yards.* \Viilih, 1 yard.
3rd ditto
•00075
•002
•00135
4
18
8-9
•00062
•00112
•00082
iWarp threads per square inch, 100.
Weft threads in square inch, 92.
Mean •
—
—
•001526
—
—
0-0
—
•000803
Weight of piece, 566-8grs.
^ComputedNo. of yarn in piece, 406's.
"Dacca muslin, Mitlmnl Khas. V.\-
1 st sample
•0015
•0035
•0025*
4
10
7*
•00038
• 00098
•00068*
hibited in Indian section of the In-
2nd ditto -00125 -00375
•002175
5
15
9
•00050
• 00075
•000681
ternational Exhibition of 1862.
3rd ditto
•00125 -00225
•001825
4
12
8-1
•00062
•00087
•00095
Length, 10 yds. 12 ins. Width, 1 yard
4th ditto
•1)01
•0025
•0017
5
16
8-9
•00062
•00100
•000725
Warp threads in square inch, 104.
5th ditto
.001
•0025
•001825
4
17
8-8
•000375
•00100
• 000725
Weft threads in square inch, 100. :
Weight of piece, 1565 grains.
Mean - —
C01396 —
—
8-0
__
•OOO719
Computed No. of yarn in piece, 380's. j
* Those marked thus are the means of the highest and lowest of all the measurements made. The means without the asterisk are calcu-
lated from the sum of ten separate measurements. The general means are calculated by using the means marked by the asterisks as one
observation, the others being multiplied by ten, and so giving the sum of all the observations from which they are drawn.
f To ascertain this, the size was in each case removed before the separation into filaments was attempted.
j This applies to the portion used for experiment ; the original length of the piece was 10 yards.
These measurements, so far as they go, lead to the following conclusions : —
1. That the diameter of the Dacca yam is less than that of the finest European. The
two finest specimens of the last ever known to have been exhibited, gave '00222
and -002167 of an inch, while the two specimens from India gave '001526 and
•001896 respectively. At first sight this does not appear a great difference, but
it is in reality a very appreciable one, and so far as it goes it is distinctly in favour
of the Indian fabrics.
2. That the number of filaments in each thread is considerably smaller in the Dacca than
in the European yarns. The two latter gave 13'8 and 14'9, and the two former
9'0 and 8'6. We were scarcely prepared to find this point of difference so
decidedly marked, but no result of the investigation may be more safely accepted
as correct.
3. That the diameter of the ultimate filaments or fibres, of which the cotton of the
Dacca yarn consists, is larger than that of the European. The two last gave
•0006427 inch and '000539 inch; and the two former '000803 inch and .000719
inch. Here again the difference is quite decided, and is only in accordance with the
results of other investigations into the comparative size of the filaments of Indian and
American cotton.
L 2
62
PIECE GOODS.
4. That it appears from the investigation that the superior fineness of Dacca yarn
depends chiefly on the fact that it contains a smaller number of filaments. The
mode of spinning — as we shall afterwards find — makes it more compressed, but it
is not probable that this greatly affects the result. Even after taking into account
the greater thickness of the filaments of the cotton used in Dacca, it is clear, however,
that their number, which is so much smaller, must give a finer thread. In other words
the eight to nine (8'9 & 9'0) filaments of a diameter of -000803 and -000719 as in
the best of the two Dacca muslins, must give a thread smaller in size or finer,
than the 14 or 15 (13'8 and 14 -9) filaments of a diameter of -0006427 and '000539
as in the best of the two muslins from Europe.
The measurements of the diameter of the thread were taken from specimens of muslin
which were sized, that is in the condition in which they are offered for sale as finished
goods. But as it was possible that the sizing might influence these, it was carefully removed
from all of them and the measurements repeated.
The results of this part of the investigation are given in the following table : —
Description.
Diameter of threads. (Parts of an inch.)
Minimum.
Maximum.
Mean.*
(" 1st sample
French muslin (International Exhibition of 1862). - < 2nd ditto
•001
•00125
•00325
•00325
.001875
•001925
L nEean
—
—
•OO19
I" 1st sample
English muslin (International Exhibition of 1851). - J 2nd ditto
•001
•00125
•00275
•0025
•00180
•00180
I Mean
—
—
•OO18
{1st sample
2nd ditto
mean
•00075
•001
•002
•0025
•00130
•001375
•OO13375
{1st sample
2nd ditto
Mean
•001
•001
•00225
•00225
•00155
•001575
•0015625
* Calculated from ten separate measurements.
This table shows that it was proper to extend and complete the investigation, and that
sizing does really affect the diameter of the thread ; but it also shows that the Indian maker
is still able to claim the palm — his yarn being-finer than anything yet knoicn to have been
produced in Europe*
* In the International Exhibition of 1862, a few yards of muslin, stated to be of No. 700s yarn, spun by
Thomas Houldsworth & Co., of Manchester, were shown. Regarding this specimen, Mr. Hotildsworth himself
remarked that it was too imperfect for any purpose, except to fix the limits of fineness at which cotton yarn can
be woven at all. Eegarding the specimens of muslin of 440s yarn, exhibited on the same occasion, and a
portion from which formed one of the subjects of the investigation here detailed, Mr. Houldsworth states that he
considers these a great advance on any muslin exhibited in 1851. chiefly, he adds, " Owing to the introduction
" since then of Neilman's combing machine for cotton, by which the quality of fine yarn has been vastly improved,
" and made nearly as perfect as the fibre will admit." (Catalogue of the Indian Department of the International
Exhibition of 1862, p. 206.) Mr. Houldsworth's further remarks, on this subject, have such an immediate
bearing on what has preceded, that we repeat them here. Eeferring to the muslin (440s) before named, he
continues, " A comparison, however, of this muslin with the Dacca piece, as tested by the eye and feel, would lead
" to the opinion that the Indian piece was the Jiner. This arises from the difference in the finishing or getting
DACCA MUSLINS.
63
The condition of the fibre with reference to the amount of twisting which it receives in
the process of spinning, constitutes another element of advantage in iavour of the Dacca
muslins. The subjoined Table* shows the diHerence between the two in this respect : —
Description.
IKT nl' twists in thr.-ui! per inch.
Minimum.
Maximum.
Mean.*
French muslin (International Exhibition, 1862).
.(
1-1 >ample
2nd ditto
32
in
172
166
7:! • 2
111- 1
I
Mean
—
—
68-0
English muslin (International Exhibition, 1
'I
1 st sample
2nd ditto
Mean
26
20
114
146
65-6
56-6
Dacca muslin (India Museum).
.(
Nt .-ample
2nd ditto
64
46
260
190
121 -s
98-4
I
Mean
—
—
110-1
Dacca muslin ( International Exhibition, 1862).
. r
L
1st sample
2nd diito
Mean
48
38
196
144
B2-8
78.6
8O-7
* Calculated from the sum of ten separate determinations.
In the case of the two first — the European — we find that the number of twists or turns
which each inch of the yarn has received in the process of spinning amounts on the average
to only 68'8 and 56'6 as compared with HO'l and 80'7 in the Indian. This is a most
important difference, and one which in all probability affords the key to the very superior
dt&rability of the hand-made over the machine-made fabric — it being well known that for wear
these very fine machine-made muslins of Europe are practically useless, whereas the very
finest of the hand-made ones from India are proverbially lasting, and bear frequent washing,
which the finest English or European muslins do not.f
'; up ot' the two muslins — the French pieces being got up hard and wiry by means of starch, which coats the threads
'• and makes them appear courser than they are ; while the Dacca muslin is soft, and appears perfectly free from nil
" starch or other dressing. It may also be that the India threads, spun by hand, are more condensed in their
" substance by the compression of the fingers in the act of spinning than the machine-spun 440s of the Manchester
•• yarn."
f These calculations were made by .Mr. W. T. Suffolk, to whose care and skill I am indebted for the results in
the last Table, as well as for the majority of those in the one preceding it. The determination of the
number of twists per inch was effected without taking the fabric to pieces, in order to avoid the chance of
untwisting. The muslin was placed in a compressorium, gently drawn straight, and then fixed. The twists
were counted in a length of half-an-inch, determined by means of a carefully cut aperture, the figures being, of
course, doubled to give the twists per inch. Power used a -jj-yds. binocular = x GO diameters.
f It might be thought that the greater length of the fibre of the Sea-island cotton, of which these European muslins
are made, would neutralize the advantage arising from the superior twisting of the shorter Indian staple ; the
difference in favour of the Indian njiinniny is, however, too great for this to hold good. The shorter staple of ib-
Indian cotton may, however, to some extent, account for /iiiic/iinc-inudc fabrics of it being less durable than those
composed of the longer staple cottons, — although the difference in the length between India cotton and that of the
" Middling Orleans," which before the American civil war constituted the bulk of the cotton used in this country.
only amounts on the average to ,'gth of an inch. Another fact must be kept in mind — the filaments of the Indian
cotton being thicker than that of the American (Sea Island) are perhaps inilii-idm/lli/ stronger ; and, therefore,
although called upon to attribute the greater durability of the Dacca muslins, to their better spinning, it is possible
that the thickness of the ultimate fibre may have something to do with the matter.
64 PIECE GOODS.
However viewed, therefore, our manufacturers have something xtill to do. WitJt all our
machinery and wondrous appliances, we have hitherto been unable to produce a fabric which
for fineness or utility can equal the "woven air" of Dacca — (he product of arrangements
which appear rude and primitive, but which in reality are admirably adapted for their
purpose.
These arrangements appear to us of such interest that we shall introduce here a short
account of the processes of the Dacca manufactures, and for this purpose shall fully avail
ourselves of the information contained in an admirable work on the Cotton Manufactures
of Dacca,* which we are able to say was written by James Taylor, Esq. This gentleman
sent to the Exhibition of 1851 a series of specimens of the Dacca fabrics, with valuable
drawings, and other objects, illustrative of the process of manufacture. Soon after the
Exhibition, Mr. Taylor wrote the book referred to as the one from which the following
extracts are taken. Those who desire a knowledge of the subject more full and minute
than the quotations afford, should consult the work itself. In order to make the descrip-
tion as clear as possible, we have had prepared from the drawings in the India Museum,
a lithographic representation — opposite — of the chief processes on a larger scale than those
which Mr. Taylor used in illustration of his excellent work.
The passages which we have selected and which we here reproduce, are those which
describe the processes of spinning, weaving, bleaching, and dressing.
SPINNING.
" The cotton in the state oikdp&s (i. e. seeds and wool unseparated) is cleaned and prepared
by the women who spin the yarn. Fragments of the leaves, stalks, and capsules of the plant
are carefully picked out with the fingers, and the wool adhering to the seeds is then carded with
the jaw-bone of the boalee fish (Siluris boaiis), the teeth of which, being small, recurved, and
closely set, act as a fine comb in removing the loose and coarser fibres of the cotton, and all
extraneous matter, such as minute particles of earthy and vegetable matter, from it. The Hindoo
spinner, with that unwearied patience that characterizes her race, sits down to the laborious task
of cleaning with this instrument each separate seed of cotton. Having accomplished this, she
proceeds to detach the fibres from the seeds. This is done by placing a small quantity of the
combed cotton upon a smooth flat board, made of the wood of the Chalta tree (Dillenia specwsa),
and then rolling an iron pin backwards and forwards upon it with the hands, in such a manner as
to separate the fibres without crushing the seeds. The cotton is next teased with a small hand-
bow, formed of a piece of bamboo with two elastic slips of the same material inserted into it, and
strung with a cord made of catgut, muga silk, or of plantain or rattan fibres, twisted together.
The bamboo slips are moveable within the centre piece, and in proportion to the extent they are
drawn out, or pushed back, the tension of the cord is increased or diminished. The cotton
having been reduced by the operation of bowing to a state of light downy fleece, is spread out
and lapped round a thick wooden roller ; and, on the removal of the latter instrument, it is pressed
between two flat boards. It is next rolled round a piece of lacquered reed of the size of a quill ;
and, lastly, is enveloped in the smooth and soft skin of -the cuchia fish, which serves as a cover-
to preserve it from dust and from being soiled, whilst it is held in the hand, during the process
of spinning."
" The finest thread is spun by women generally under thirty years of age. The spinning ap-
paratus, which is usually contained in a small flat work-basket, not unlike the calathus of the
* A Descriptive and Historical Account of the Cotton Manufactures of Dacca in Bengal, by a. former Resident of
Dacca. Publisher, John Mortimer, 1851.
' . ' •
''. •• • '.'
N°2 . WARPING.
N°l. SPINNING FINE YARN.
N»3. REELING YARN FROMAREEID.
M94 APPLYING THE REED TO THE WARP
NP 6. FORMING THE HEDDLES.
N.<?5. WEAVING .
"
N?.7 STEAMING CLOTHS DURING THE PROCESS OF BLEACHING
N?8. ARRANGING DISPLACED THREADS IN CLOTH .
IUT THE
OF
• *• ..
DACCA Ml si. INS. 65
ancients, comprises the cylindrical roll of cotton (]>~(tn), a, delicate iron spindle,* a piece of shell
embedded in clay, and a little hollow stone containing chalk-powder, to which the spinner occa-
sionally applies her fingers. The spindle (/«/<• /?'«) is not much thicker than a stout needle. It
is from ten to fourteen inches in length ; and attached to it, near its lower point, is a small ball of
unbaked clay, to give it suHicient weight in turning. The spinner (fig. 1, pi. A.) holds it in an
inclined position, with its point resting in the hollow of the piece of shell, and turns it between
the thumb and forefinger of one hand, while she, at the same time, draws out the single filaments
from the roll of cotton held in the other hand, and twists them into yarn upon the spindle.
When a certain quantity of the yarn has been spun and collected on this instrument it is wound
from it upon a reed. Dryness of the air prevents the filaments of cotton from being sufficiently
attenuated or elongated, and is, therefore, unfavourable to the spinning of fine yarn. A certain
degree of moisture, combined with a temperature of about 82 degrees, is the condition of the atmos-
phere best suited to the carrying on of this operation. The Dacca spinners generally work from
soon after early dawn to nine or 10 o'clock, A.M., and from three or four in the afternoon till half
an hour before sunset. The finest yarn is spun early in the morning before the rising sun dissi-
pates the dew on the grass ; or, when this is wanting and the air is unusually dry, it is not unfre-
quently made over a shallow vessel of water, the evaporation from which imparts the necessary
degree of moisture to the filaments of cotton, and enables the spinner to form them into thread.
" The native weavers commonly judge of the fineness of yarn by sight alone. They have no
rule or standard for the length of the reels, or instrument by which they can form an estimate of
any given weight of thread. The only mode, therefore, of ascertaining the quality of the fine
yarn is to weigh the skeins and then measure them on sticks placed in the ground, as in warping
—an operation which requires delicate manipulation, and which few except the spinners or
weavers themselves can do. Yarn is measured by the hdtli (cubit), the length of which is stated
by the Commercial Resident to be 19;,{ inches ; and is weighed by iheruttee, which is equal to
about two grains troy. The standard quality of the yarn used in the manufacture of the
muslins formerly sent to the Court of Delhi is said to have been 150 hdths in length to one ruttee
in weight ; but was commonly used varied from 140 to 160 hdtlts in length to the above weight
— the yarn of 140 hdths being employed for the warp, and that of 160 for the weft, of these
fabrics. The finest yarn used in the Dacca looms, in the year 1800, did not exceed 140 cubits
in length to one ruttee in weight. Some, however, is mentioned as having been spun at
Sunargong at this time, of the quality of 175 cubits to one ruttee. Yarn much finer than this is
made at Dacca in the present day. A skein, which a native weaver measured in my presence in
1846, and which was afterwards carefully weighed, proved to be in the proportion of upwards of
250 miles to the pound of cotton. The short fibres of the Dacca cotton, of which the fine thread
is made, are not well adapted to spinning by machinery; while, on the other hand, the long,
cylindrico-spiral, and more elastic fibres of the American cotton which are best suited to this
process, cannot be made into fine yarn with the primitive spindle of the Hindoo. In 1811, a
quantity of Sea Island cotton was sent by the Commercial Resident to the different manufactur-
ing stations connected with the Dacca factory for trial, but the spinners were unable to work it
into thread, and it was pronounced to be an article unfit for the manufactures of the native looms.
The Dacca yarn is said to be softer than mule twist ; and I believe it is generally admitted
that the fabrics made of it are more durable than muslins manufactured by machinery. The
tendency of the fibres to expand from moisture is the criterion by which the native weavers judge
of the quality of cotton ; and it is mentioned by Mr. Bebb, the Commercial Resident in 1 789, as
the test which then determined the value of this article as raised in different parts of the district.
The cotton which swells the least on bleaching is considered by the weavers as the best, or at
least, as the material best suited to the manufacture of fine thread. A common remark among
them is, that English yarn swells on bleaching, while Dacca spun thread shrinks and becomes
stronger the more frequently it is subjected to that process."
• In some of the eastern districts of Bengal, and in Assam, the spindle is frequently made of a slender piece of
bamboo instead of iron.
60 PIECE GOODS.
" A spinner devoting the whole morning to the spindle can make about a half-sicca or tola weight
(ninety grains troy) of fine thread in a month. This is considered the maximum quantity. But
as spinning is now more a leisure occupation than a professed trade, it is calculated that the
average quantity produced in that time, by each of the persons employed in the business, does
not much exceed 45 grains weight. Fine thread is weighed either by a small rude balance
(tula), on the principle of the Roman steel-yard, or in jewellers' scales — the substances used as
weights in the latter case being four barleycorns, or a seed of the Abrus precatorius (lal hunch),
either of which constitutes a rut fee. The price of the finest yarn used in the Dacca looms is
eight rupees (16s.) per tola weight (180 grains). This is at the rate of about 3 1/. 2s. per
pound (7,000 grains) avoirdupois."
The steps in the process of weaving " may be described according to the order in which they
occur, under the following head*, viz. : — winding and preparing the yarn; warping; applying
the reed to the warp ; beaming, or applying the warp to the end roll of the loom ; preparing the
heddles ; and lastly, weaving."
WINDING AND PREPARING THE YARN.
" The yarn when delivered to the weaver is wound on small pieces of reed, or made up in the form
of small skeins. The first thing that is done is to steep it in this state in water. It is then reeled
in the manner shown in figure 3, PI. A. A piece of stick is passed through the hollow reed
and fixed in the cleft end of a piece of bamboo. The weaver, holding the latter between his toes,
draws off the yarn from the reed, which revolves upon the stick through it, and winds it upon the
reel, which he holds in the other hand, and whirls round in a small cup of smooth cocoa-nut
shell. When the yarn is in the form of a skein, it is put upon a small wheel made oi fine splints
of bamboo and thread. This is mounted on the end of a stick upon which it is made to
revolve, and as the yarn is thus draVvn off, it is wound upon the reel."
'• The yarn is divided into two portions — viz., a sufficient quantity of the finest of it for the
woof (burna), and the rest for the warp (tuna)''
" The warp thread is steeped for three days in water, which is twice changed daily. On the
fourth day it is, after being rinsed, put upon a small wheel, made of splits of reed and thread,
and is then reeled — the stick upon which the wheel is mounted being held between the toes, and
the reel turned in the manner represented. Skeins of a convenient size having been wound
off, are steeped in water, and tightly twisted between two sticks ; they are then left upon the
sticks and exposed to the sun to dry. They are next untwisted and put into water mixed with
fine charcoal-powder, lampblack, or soot scraped from the surface of an earthen cooking vessel.
They are kept in tins mixture for two days, then rinsed in clear water, wrung out, and hung upon
pieces of stick placed in the shade to dry. Each skein having been again reeled, is steeped in
water for one night, and is next day opened up and spread over a flat board, upon which it is
smoothed with the hand, and rubbed over with a paste or size made of koie (paddy or rice, from
which the husk has been removed by heated sand), and a small quantity of fine lime mixed with
water. Rice, it may be remarked, has formed the basis of the starched used in weaving in India,
from remote antiquity. ' Let a weaver,' says Menu, ' who has received ten palas of cotton
thread, give them back increased to eleven by the rice water, and the like used in weaving,
&c., (Menu's 'Institutes,' No. 397.')"
" The skeins after being sized are wound upon large reels, and exposed to the sun — the turns of
the thread being widely spread over the surface of the reels in order that they may dry quickly.
All the thread is again reeled and sorted preparatory to warping. It is generally divided into
three shades of quality — viz., the finest for the right-hand side, the next finest for the left-hand
side, and tjie coarsest for the centre, of the warp. Such is the mode of preparing the yarn for the
warp of plain muslins. The yarn for the warp of striped or chequered fabrics, is prepared by
twisting a certain number of threads together, namely, two for each stripe of the dourcect,
DACCA MUSLIW 07
and four for that of the cltnrkunn, muslin, and then sizing and reeling it in the manner above
mentioned."
" The yarn for the woof is not prepared till two days previous to the commencement of weaving.
A quantity sufficient for one day's work is steeped in water for twenty-four hours. Next day
it is rinsed and wound on large reels, and then lightly sized with paste of the same kind as that
applied to the warp. From small reels it is wound upon larger ones, and left upon these to dry
in the shade. This process of preparing the yarn for the woof is continued daily until the cloth
H finished."
WAUPING.
" This operation is usually performed in a field or any open spot convenient for the work near
the weaver's house. For this purpose, four short bamboo posts are fixed in the ground, at
measured distances (varying according to the intended length of the cloth), and several pairs of
rods placed between them, the whole forming two parallel rows of rods about four feet apart. The
weaver holding a small wheel of warp-yarn in each hand (Fig. 2, pi. A.), passes the latter over
one of the posts and then walks along the rows, laying down two threads, and crossing them
(by crossing his hands between each pair of rods) until he arrives at the post at the opposite
extremity. He retraces his steps from this point, and thus continues to traverse backwards
and forwards as many times as there are threads of the warp to be laid down. The small wheels
or bobbins on which the warp yarn is wound are made of fine splits of bamboo and thread,
and are each attached at a right angle to a short handle, at the end of which there is a kangch*
ring, through which the yarn runs. Two pairs of hand-wheels, one with single, and another
with twisted yarn, are used alternately for the warps of striped and chequered muslins."
APPLYING THE REED TO THE WARP.
" The reed is generally applied to the warp after the preceding1 operation ; but sometimes it
is not attached until the warp has been fastened to the end roll of the loom. It is made of fine
splits of bamboo firmly fixed between ribs of split cane. The finest reed used in the Dacca
looms contains only 2,800 dents in a space of 40 inches in length. In order to apply it to the
warp, the latter is folded up in the form of a roll or bundle, and suspended from the roof of the
weaver's hut, with one end of it unfolded, spread out, and hanging down to within a foot or two
from the ground. The reed is then fastened with two slight cords to the bundle and lease rods,
and hangs in front of the unfolded portion of the warp. Two workmen seat themselves (Fig. 4,
PI. A), one on each side of the warp. Having cut with a knife a portion of its end loops,
the man in front passes an iron wire or sley hook through the first division of the reed to
the other workman ; and the ends of the two outermost threads being twisted upon it by him, it
is drawn back, and the thread thus brought through. In this manner the wire is intro-
duced through all the divisions of the reed in succession, and two threads are drawn through
each of them at a time. The ends of the threads are gathered in bunches of five or six,
and knotted ; and through the loops formed by these knots a small bamboo rod is passed."
^ _^___ _^^ __ .
* A kind of coarse glass.
M
PIECE GOODS.
APPLYING THE WARP TO THE END ROLL OF THE LOOM.
" This is done out of doors and generally in the place where the operation of warping is
performed. The warp is folded upon the reed in the form of a bundle, and is held by a work-
man. The end of it is then unfolded, and a thin slip of bamboo having been passed through it,
it is received into a longitudinal groove in the end roll (yarn beam), and fastened to it with
pieces of string. The end roll rests in two loops of cord attached to two posts, and is turned
round with a winch. The warp threads are next arranged. The outermost ones are brought to
a distance commensurate with the intended breadth of the cloth, and a portion of the warp being
unfolded and put upon the stretch by the person who holds the bundle, two workmen proceed
to arrange the threads in its middle. They use a small piece of cane, softened and beaten out
at one end into the form of a brush, in order to separate the threads from each other, and then
gently tap them with an elastic cane, held in the form of a bow, to bring them into a state
of parallelism. The portion of the warp which is thus arranged being carefully wound upon
the end roll, another portion is then unrolled and similarly prepared."
PREPARING THE HEDDLES.
" In order to form the heddles, a portion of the warp behind the reed is unfolded and
stretched out horizontally in the same manner as it is in the loom. A broad piece of bamboo
is then placed edgewise between the threads of the warp, in order that the weaver may have
sufficient room to form the loop of the heddles. The reddish coloured twine of which they are
made is unwound from a wheel fixed to a post near the weaver, and being passed between the
separated threads of the warp to the opposite side, it is fastened to a cane to which is attached
an oval piece of wood about eight inches in length. The weaver (fig. 6, PI. A.) then dips
two fingers between the outermost thread of the warp and the one next to it, and brings up a
fold or loop of the coloured string which passes upon the inside of the oval piece of wood and
is crossed round the cane above. The same process is repeated between every two threads
of the warp — the cane and oval piece of wood being gradually moved across the warp as the
work proceeds. As two sets of loops are made on each side of the warp, two workmen are
generally employed at the same time in forming them. When the loops of one side are finished,
the warp is removed from the posts, reversed, and stretched out as before, and then those of the
other side are made. By this process the loops of the one side are interlinked with those of the
other — the threads of the warp inclosed within them being thereby so placed as either to rise or
fall, according as the force applied by the toe of the weaver acts upon the upper or lower loops of
the heddles. The canes on which the loops are crossed are fastened by strings to four small
bamboo rods — the two upper ones being attached, when placed in the loom, to the slings of the
heddles, and the two lower ones to the weights of the treadles."
THE LOOM AND OPERATION OF WEAVING.
" The Indian loom (fig. 5, PI. A.) is horizontal, and is said by Heeren to resemble that of the
ancient Egyptians. At Dacca it is always erected under a roof — either that of the weaver's
house, or the cover of a shed built for the purpose. Its lateral standards are four bamboo posts
firmly fixed in the ground. They are connected above by side-pieces which support the trans-
verse rods, to which the slings of the lay or batten, and the balances of the heddles, are attached.
The warp wound on the end roll (or yarn beam), and having the reed and heddles attached to
DACCA MUM. INN. G9
it, is brought to the loom and fixed to the breast roll (or cloth beam) by a small slip of bamboo,
which is passed through the loops of the warp, and received into a longitudinal groove in the
beam. Both the end and breast rolls rest either in scooped shoulder-posts, or in strong looped
cords attached to the four lateral standards. They are turned round with a winch, and
prevented from moving in the opposite direction by a piece of stick, one end of which is inserted
into a mortice in the end of the roll, and the other fixed in the ground. The lay or batten
consists of two broad flat pieces of wood, grooved on their inner edges for the reception of the
reed, which is fixed in its place by iron or wooden pins passed through the ends of the lay. It
is suspended from the transverse rod (the counterpart of the cape) above by slings passing
through several pieces of sawn shell. By altering the distance between these segments of shell,
which is done by lengthening or shortening the intermediate slings, the range of motion of the
lay is increased or diminished. The extent of this range of motion regulates, in a great measure,
the degree of force which is applied to the weft in weaving ; and, as it is necessary to adapt this
to the particular texture of the fabric which is to be made, the proper adjustment of this part of
the apparatus requires considerable care, and is considered by the weavers as one of the nicest
operations connected with the loom. The balances of the heddles, having the slings of the
latter attached to their extremities, are equally poised and suspended from the transverse rod
above. The treadles are made of pieces of bamboo, and are contained in a pit dug in the
ground, of about three feet in length, by two in breadth, and one and a half in depth. The
shuttle is made of the light wood of the betel-nut tree (Areca catechu), and has spear-shaped
iron points. It is from 10 to 14 inches in length, and three quarters of an inch in breadth, and
weighs about two ounces. It has a long open space in its centre, in which is longitudinally placed
a moveablc iron wire, upon which the reed of the weft revolves — the thread passing, as it is
thrown off from the latter, through an eye in the side of the shuttle. The temple, or instru-
ment for keeping the cloth on the stretch during the process of weaving, is formed of two rods
connected together with cord, and armed at their outer ends with two brass, hooks or pins, which
are inserted into the edges of the cloth on its under surface."
" The apparatus of the loom being all adjusted, the weaver proceeds to work in the manner
shown in the figure. He sits with his right leg bent under him, upon a board or mat placed
close to the edge of the pit, and depressing one of the treadles with the great toe of the left foot,
and thus forming the shed in the warp above, he passes the shuttle with a slight jerk from one
hand to the other, and then strikes home each shot of the weft with the lay. In performing
these operations the Hindoo possesses unrivalled skill. Like most of the native artisans of
Bengal, the Dacca weaver is of a slender and somewhat delicate form of bod}r. Deficient in
physical strength and energy, he is, on the other hand, endowed with fine sensibility of touch,
and a nice perception of weight; while he possesses that singular command of muscular action
which enables him to use his toes with almost as great effect as his fingers in the exercise of his
art. ' The rigid, clumsy fingers of a European,' says Orme, ' would scarcely be able to make a
piece of canvass with the instruments which are all that an Indian employs in making a piece of
cambric.'* The stretch of the warp in the loom seldom exceeds one yard in length ; and the
depth of the shed is generally about seven-eighths of an inch. To lessen friction on the threads
of the warp during the process of weaving, the shuttle, reed, and lay are all oiled ; and to prevent
the desiccation of the former in very dry hot weather, a brush made of a tuft of fibres of the nut
plant (Arundo karka) and smeared with mustard oil, is occasionally drawn lightly along their
extended surface. When a portion of the cloth, to the extent of 10 or 12 inches, is finished, it
is, in order to preserve it from being injured by insects, sprinkled with lime-water, and then
rolled upon the cloth-beam, and a portion of the warp unwound from the yarn-beam at the
opposite end of the loom. The condition of the atmosphere most favourable to the manufacture
* Fine muslin is meant.
M 2
70 PIECE GOODS.
of fine muslins, is that of a temperature of about 82 degrees combined with moisture. The heat
and dazzling glare of the sun's rays at mid-day are generally too powerful to admit of the process
being carried on at that time, and hence it is a practice among the weavers to work only in the
morning and afternoon. The best season for weaving fine muslins is during the months of
Assar, Sawan, and Bhadun (from the 13th of May to the 14th of August.) In very dry hot
weather it is sometimes necessary, during the operation of weaving, to place beneath the
extended yarns of the warp in the loom a few shallow vessels of water, the evaporation from
which keeps the threads moist and prevents them from breaking. Doubtless, it is this practice
which has given rise to the erroneous notion that Dacca muslins are sometimes woven under
water. The time required for the manufacture of a piece of muslin of the usual dimensions
(20 yards in length by 1 in breadth) necessarily depends on the quality of the fabric, and the
expertness of the weaver employed in making it. In this latter respect there exists great
diversity — natural aptitude, hereditary instruction, and constant practice enabling individual?,
as they possess these several advantages to a greater or less extent, to attain to different degrees
of excellence in the art. In general, the weavers of the different manufacturing stations of the
district confine their industry to the weaving of certain kinds of fabrics ; but, notwithstanding
the degree of tact and manual dexterity suited to their particular work, which they thus acquire
from this subdivision of the business, there is yet a considerable difference displayed by the
workmen in each department, both in regard to the quantity of work of a certain quality which
they are individually capable of producing, and the length of time which they require for doing
it. On the subject of the time usually occupied in weaving different fabrics, the Commercial
Resident states : — •' The preparation of the land or warp thread of a full piece of plain or striped
cloth of the Dacca station employs two men, according to the quality of the thread, from 10 to
30 days. The weaving of such cloth employs two persons, one to weave, the other to prepare
thread and attend the loom — if of the ordinary or middling plain assortments, from 10 to 15
days — if of the fine, 20 — the superfine, 30 — the fine superfine, from 40 to 45 — and if the cloth be
of the fine superfine dooreas or charkana assortments, 60 days. At other stations, where cloths
of higher or less value are made, the time requisite for manufacturing them is proportionally
increased or diminished. A half piece of mulmul khas or of Circar All of the finest kind,
costing from 70 to 80 rupees, cannot be manufactured in less than five or six months. A whole
piece of Narainpore jehazy muslin, costing two rupees, can be made in the course of eight
days.' '
BLEACHING. — DRESSING. — PACKING.
" The process of bleaching is carried on in the suburbs of the town of Dacca. Abul Fazul
mentions a place called Catarashoonda, in Sunargong, that was celebrated in his time for its
water, which gave a peculiar whiteness to the cloths that were washed in it. A similar property
is ascribed at the present day to the water found in the vicinity of Dacca, extending from
Naraindeah, the place where bleaching is now principally practised, to Tezgong, about four
miles distant from it. At the latter station the English, Dutch, and French had extensive
bleaching grounds during the time they had factories here, but on the extinction of the foreign
trade of the place Tezgong was soon deserted, and is now, to a great extent, overrun with
jungle."
" The water used in washing cloths at Naraindeah, is taken from wells on the bleaching-
ground. In the rainy season, when the rivers are high or full, it percolates through the inter-
vening fine strata of sand, and rises in the wells to within 4 or 5 feet from the surface of the
ground ; but in the dry season, when the former are low, it sinks to a depth of about 18 feet,
and is frequently thick and muddy and unfit for washing. Cloths are first steeped in large
DACCA Ml'SLIXS. . 71
semicircular earthen vessels (»v/w/<?.v), answering the purpose of tubs in this country, and arc
then beaten, in their wet state, upon a board, the surface of which is generally cut into transverse
parallel furrows. This mode of washing has been practised in India from remote antiquity, as
appears from an institute of Menu, where it is stated : — ' Let a washerman wash the cloths of his
employer, little and little, or piece by piece, and not hastily, upon a smooth board of salmali wood.'
(Inst. 398.) Fine muslins, however, are not subjected to this rough process, but are merely
steeped in water. All sorts of cloths, of whatever texture they may be, are next immersed
for some hours in an alkaline ley, composed of soap* and sajce matue (impure carbonate of soda).
They arc then spread over the grass and occasionally sprinkled with water, and when half dried
are removed to the boiling-house in order to be steamed. The boiler used for this purpose is
an earthen vessel, having a very wide mouth, and of a size capable of containing about 8 or 10
gallons of water. It is placed over a small excavation in the ground, and built up with clay, so as
to form a broad flat surface around its neck (fig. 7, PL A, facing p. 64), having at one part a
slanting opening or passage leading to the excavation below. A hollow bamboo, or reed, fitted
with a cup or funnel made of cocoa-nut shell, serves as a tube through which the water is poured
into the vessel. The cloths are twisted into the form of loose bundles, and placed upon the
broad clay platform, on a level with the neck of the boiler. They are arranged in circular layers,
one above the other, around the bamboo tube, which is kept in an upright position by means of
the transverse supporters projecting from it, the whole forming a conical pile that rises to a height
of 5 or 6 feet above the boiler. The fire is kindled in the excavation below, and as the
ebullition of the water proceeds the steam rises through the wide mouth of the vessel, and
diffuses itself through the mass of cloths above, swelling by its high temperature the threads of
the latter, and allowing the alkali still adhering to them to penetrate more completely into their
fibres, and seize on the colouring matter of the cotton. f The operation of steaming is com-
menced in the evening, and continued all night till the following morning. The cloths are then
removed from the boiler, steeped in alkaline ley, and spread over the grass as on the preceding-
day, and again steamed at night. These alternate processes of bucking and crofting, as they
are technically called, during the day, and of steaming at night, are repeated for 10 or 12 days
until the cloths are perfectly bleached. After the last steaming, they are steeped in clear
filtered water, acidulated with lime juice in the proportion generally of one large lime to each
piece of cloth. Lime juice has long been used in bleaching in all parts of India. Tavernier
states that Baroach was celebrated in his time as a bleaching station, on account of its extensive
meadows, and the large quantities of lemons raised there ; and he further remarks that,
' Throughout the territory of the Great Mogul they make use of the juice of citrons to whiten
their calicuts, whereby they make them sometimes so white that they dazzle the sight." Mixed
fabrics of cotton and muga silk are steeped in water mixed with lime-juice and coarse sugar,
which latter article is said to have the effect of brightening the natural colour of the silk. The
best season for bleaching is from July to November. At this time the water is clear and pure,
and gales, or gusts of wind carrying dust seldom occur to interfere with the drying of the cloths
* " Soap appears to Lave been introduced into India by the Mahomedans, who are still the principal, if not the sole
manufacturers of it in Bengal, The Hindoos formerly used, as they still do, a lixivium formed from the ashes of
different plants, particularly the plantain tree, in washing clothes. The Indian name of soap — saloon — is an Arabic
word, and appears to be the origin of sabun, which, according to Dr. Clarke, is the name given to soap in the Crimea ;
and ofsavi/n, which the same writer also states is applied to it at Genoa. — (See Dr. Clarke's "Travels in Russia and on
the Don.") The soap manufactured at Dacca is considered the best in Bengal, and was formerly an article of export
to different parts of India, Bassora, Jidda, &c. It is composed of the. following materials, viz. : — Shell lime, 10
maunds ; sajee matee, 16 maunds ; common salt, 15 maunds ; sesamum oil, 12 maunds ; goat's suet, 15 seers."
t " The process of bleaching linen by steam is said to be practised with great success in France. It was brought
from the Levant, and was first made known to the public by C'haptal." — (See Webster and Parkes's " Encyclopedia of
Domestic Economy.")
72 PIECE GOODS.
on the grass. Fine thin fabrics exposed to a strong sun at this season of the year are dried in
three-quarters of an hour ; cloths of a medium texture, in an hour and and a half; and stout
fabrics, in three hours."
" The bleachers are all Hindoos of the caste of DJiobee (washermen.) The more wealthy
individuals of the class are generally either the proprietors or the renters of the bleach-grounds,
and employ a considerable number of washermen, chiefly from Junglebaree, during the bleaching
season. The boilers are erected under thatched sheds on the bleaching-field, and there are
commonly five or six of them under one roof. Spreading the cloths over the grass or upon
bamboo rails was formerly done by a set of workmen called contadars, whose business it
also was to keep the bleach ground clean, and free of weeds, prickly grass, and whatever tended
to injure the cloths. Since the abolition, however, of the Company's factory this has ceased to
be a separate business, and is now performed by the other workmen employed on the field. The
cost of bleaching depends upon the number of times the cloths are steamed. Including the
expense of dressing them, it varies from 30 to 160 rupees (3/. to 16/.) per 100 pieces."
DRESSING.
" The cloths having been bleached are dressed by workmen, who practise the several arts
included under that head as distinct trades.
" Nurdeeahs arrange the threads of cloths that happen to be displaced during bleaching.
They work in the manner shown in fig. 8, PI. A. The cloth wound upon a roller (nurd) is placed
between two posts on the bleaching-ground, and is unrolled and carefully examined. The
damaged portion of it is then stretched out, and being wetted with water, an instrument like a
comb, formed of the spines of the Nagphunee plant ( Cactus indicus} is drawn lightly along the
surface of the displaced threads in order to bring them into their proper places.
" Rafu-gars are darners, who repair cloths that have been damaged during bleaching. They
join broken threads, remove knots from threads, &c.
" Rafu-gari (darning) is a branch of needlework in which Mahomedans display a degree of
manual dexterity almost equal to that exhibited by the Hindoos in weaving. An expert
Rafugar can extract a thread 20 yards long from a piece of the finest muslin of the same
dimensions, and replace it with one of the finest quality. This operation, which is called
choonae, or ' picking out a thread," is generally done when a coarse thread is discovered in a
web of muslin after bleaching. The Rafugars are principally employed in repairing cloths that
have been injured during bleaching, in removing weavers' knots from threads, joining broken
threads, forming the gold and silver headings on cloths, and sewing the private marks of manu-
facturers upon cloths before they are sent to be bleached. Most of them are addicted to the
use of opium, and generally execute the finest work whilst they are under the influence of this
drug. They constitute a distinct class of workmen or Mahomedan guild, and are governed in
all matters relating to their business by two elders or chiefs, elected to the office for life, and
who preside at their deliberations. They admit none but their descendants in the male line as
apprentices into their fraternity. The number of their houses or families at Dacca is estimated
at 150.
" Dagh-dhobees are washermen who remove spots and stains from muslins. They use the
juice of the amroola plant (Oxalis corniculata), which is described as yielding an acid like that
of sorrel, to take out iron marks ; and a composition of ghee, lime, and mineral alkali to efface
stains and discolorations, such as are produced by decayed leaves and the plants called
Neelbundee and Cuchu.
" Koondegurs are workmen who beetle cloths. Muslins are beaten with smooth chank shells
SIZING. 73
( Volnfn »w;r/.v, Linn.) ; and cloths of a stout texture with a mallet, upon a block of tamarind
wood, rice-water being sprinkled over them during the operation.
' IstreewaUahi are cloth-ironers. The very fine plain and flowered assortments of fabrics are
ironed between sheets of paper. This work is done only by Mahomedans, and appears to have
been introduced into India by them.
" The cloths are folded by the Niirdeeahs, and then piled up and formed into bales, which are
compressed by workmen called Buxtnlmmlx. This is done by placing them between flat boards,
tied together by strong ropes, and tightly twisting the latter with pieces of stick. The ancient
mode of packing fine muslins was to inclose them in the hollow joints of bamboo, one of which,
forming a tube about 18 inches in length and 1 inch in diameter, was sufficiently large to contain
a piece of muslin 22 English yards long and 1 broad. The cylindrical cases of this kind in
which the mullmos klutx muslins were sent to Delhi were lacquered and gilded ; and when
brought into Dacca from the Government weaving establishments at the fiun(/tg\; were paraded
in great state (as was the case with all articles intended as offerings to the Emperor) through
the streets of the town to the residence of the Nawaub prior to their despatch to Court. This
mode of presenting muslins to persons of distinction is somewhat similar to that mentioned by
Tavernier, who states that Mahomed AH Beg, on returning to Persia from India, where he had
been an ambassador, presented to the King a cocoa-nut shell, about the size of an ostrich egg,
studded with pearls ; and that on opening it it was found to contain a turban of Indian muslin
60 cubits long."
This concludes our quotation from Mr. Taylor's interesting work. Before proceeding to
describe the specimens themselves, we would here offer some observations on the subject of
SIZING.
Of the cotton goods sent from this country to India a considerable quantity is found
to be iii'dili'iccd either on arrival there or soon after. It need scarcely be said that this is a
fact of importance, and one which seriously interferes with the success of trade operations.
Efforts have been made to account for it, and the general opinion arrived at is, that it
depends on the presence of certain salts in the size used by the British manufacturer.
It is not our purpose, however, to enter into any examination of the matter here, and
we make these general remarks simply as an introduction to some others regarding the mode
of sizing as practised by the native manufacturers of India, in the expectation that what
we say may prove suggestive, and in that way, perhaps, of practical utility.
Nothing can be simpler or purer than the size used by the native manufacturer, which
may be described as usually consisting of rice-water, or, in other words, of starch.
In the case of the Dacca muslins, we know that the rice is treated in a peculiar manner,
being parched in hot sand before the removal of its husk, and by that process having its
starch probably converted into dextrine. Nothing is added to it except a small quantity of fine
lime. It will be observed that it contains neither soaps, nor oleaginous matters, nor other
drugs, as is generally the case with the sizing used by the British manufacturer.
No native-made goods are sold by weight, so that there is no inducement to size heavily,
and thu-s sell starch at the price of manufactured cotton.
PIECE GOODS.
It is a point of interest, however, and may be one of value, to ascertain what amount of
sizing native goods actually contain, and accordingly we submitted a number of samples to
examination. The results of this investigation will be found in the following table :—
Samples in
Fabric Books.
Description.
Per-centage
of weight of
fabric which
consisted
of size.
Vol.
No.
II. 78
COTTON LOONGEE.* -
2-75
70
Ditto
7-67
59
Ditto
9-3
)J
62
Ditto
9-66
J>
50
Ditto
9-72
JJ
80
Ditto
12-7
>J
75
Ditto - - ...
13-5
J?
74
Ditto
13-52
J)
52
Ditto
15-3
V.
167
COTTON S.UJKI:.*
6-65
194
Ditto
6-94
)5
170
Ditto ...
9-9
J)
168
Ditto
9-28
198
Ditto
9-56
197
Ditto
10-37
„ 186
Ditto
11-88
171
Ditto
12-89
»
187
Ditto
13-4
IX.
331
MUSLIN, loom-embroidered -
3-8
JJ
330
Ditto ditto
4-6
)>
328
Ditto Charkliaua
7-8
))
325
Ditto ditto
7-14
VIII.
284
Ditto Chundaree (unbleached)
9-42
IX.
322
Ditto Arnee. Fine quality.
13-1
J)
345
Ditto ditto
17-71
)J
329
Ditto Charkhana
18-46
))
347
Ditto ditto .....
20-9
—
Ditto Arnee. Superfine quality. - -
23-78
XII.
464
CALICO. Watered Isrce. - -
2-19
»
468
Ditto, coarse
2-99
))
471
Ditto Dungary cloth.
7-02
)5
463
Ditto, fine, from Raj ahmundry
9-2
))
473
Ditto Dungaree - -
13-8
* Size determined in portion cut from centre of piece, i.e., excluding borders and ends.
It will be seen from the foregoing table that the quantity of size used by the native
manufacturer varies considerably, and that not in one class of goods only but in all classes.
Some of the Loongees and Sarees gave as much as 12 to 15 per cent, of their weight as
starch, while others yielded only 3 to 6 per cent. The details tabulated above are the
results of a series of careful observations, and to persons interested in the subject will
probably prove worthy of study.
Our plan leads us now to the detailed account of the various piece goods, specimens of
which are contained in the 18 volumes to which this work forms a key, and, undoubtedlv the
first in point of interest are the muslins.
MUSLINS. 75
MUSLINS.
These are of various qualities, and go under different designations. We shall arrange
them in groups, and begin with
1. MUSLINS. — FINK ; PLAIN ; WHITE.
A large proportion of these, and certainly the most famous of them, are manufactured
at Dacca, and thus it happens that we are in the habit of speaking of all the very fine muslins
of India as Dacca muslins. But we shall see from the table which follows, that other places in
India produce fabrics of extreme delicacy and beauty, though the Dacca weaver has unques-
tionably the first place, having never as yet been beaten either in India or out of it.
Xo one will examine them, and marvel that they should have received such poetic names
as " The Evening Dew, " The Running Water," and " The Woven Air."*
" The common dimensions of a piece of Dacca muslin," says Mr. Taylor,f " are 20 yards
in length by one in breadth. The number of threads in the warp is reckoned by the number
of dents in the reed used in weaving the fabric; but as two threads pass through each division
of this instrument, the actual number is twice that expressed by the weavers. There
arc more threads in the warp than in the woof — the latter being to the former, in a piece of
muslin weighing 20 tolas or siccas (3500 grs.), in the proportion of 9 to 11. One end of
the warp is generally fringed, four or five threads being twisted together and knotted ; and
in this respect it may be remarked the Dacca muslins resemble the mummy-cloths of Egypt,
both ends of which have frequently fringed borders, not unlike those of a shawl. The
value of a piece of plain muslin is estimated by its length, and the number of threads in the
warp, compared with its weight. The greater the length and number of threads, and the
less the weight of the piece, the higher is its price. It is seldom, however, that a web of the
finest muslin consists wholly of the finest thread which it is possible to spin. It is often
difficult to procure a sufficient quantity of this article for the loom ; and hence it is a
common practice among the weavers to manufacture a piece of what is called the finest
muslin of thread of three or more degrees or shades of quality. The very fine muslins of
Dacca have always been made to order, and chiefly for persons of rank and wealth in
India ; and though the demand for them of late years has been extremely limited, compared
with what it was in the time of the Mogul court, it has yet proved sufficient to preserve the
art of making them from falling into disuse."
The finest of the Dacca muslins go under the name of Mulmul Khas, or King's Muslin,
and this is the one which has been used in the comparison we have instituted between the
finest Indian and the finest European fabrics. It is generally made in half pieces, each
measuring 10 yards by 1, and there are usually 1000 to 1800 threads in the warp. As stated
in the Table p. 61, the weight of a piece 1 yard wide and 4 yards long was found to be 566
grains, and the weight of another piece, of the same width, but 10 yards 12 inches long,
was found to be 1565 grains. The prices of these were at the rate of I/, per yard.
The Abrawan, or Running Water, is considered the second quality, and a specimen of
it will be found in Vol. VII., No. 241.
The specimen in question was cut from a piece which measured 20 yards by one, and
weighed 7i ounces. The price paid for the piece was 6/. 4s., or about 6*. 2d. per yard.
* Though a specimen of the finest quality is not given in the Books, yet there are several examples which
are certain to excite admiration.
t " Dacca Cotton Manufactures," pp. 42 and 58.
(3428.) N
76
PIECE GOODS.
"The Hindoos," says Mr. Bolts, "amuse us with two stories, as instances of the fineness
of this muslin. One, that the Emperor Aurungzebe was angry with his daughter for
showing her skin through her clothes ; whereupon the young princess remonstrated in her
justification, that she had seven jamahs or suits on; and another, that in the Nabob
Allaverdy Khawn's time, a weaver was chastised and turned out of the city of Dacca for
his neglect in not preventing his cow from eating up a piece of Abrooan, which he had spread
and carelessly left on the grass."*
That which is commonly regarded as third in quality is the Shabnam, or Evening
Dew, of which a good specimen will be found in Vol. VII., No. 243. When spread on the
ground they say it can scarcely be distinguished from dew on the grass, and hence its fanciful
name. The facts regarding this muslin are as follows : — A piece, 19 yards and 14 inches
long and 34 inches wide, weighed 6| ounces. The price paid for it was 646-., or about
3*. 3^d. per yard.
The Circar All comes next, and of it also a good specimen is given — No. 242, Vol. VII.
It is said to have been formerly manufactured for the Nawaubs of the province, A whole
piece of this measured 20 yards, and was 1 yard in width. The weight of this piece was
6f ounces, but in this case the price has not been given.
After the Circar Ali, in respect of fineness, comes the Tunzeb, so far at least as
concerns the specimens given in the books ; but the Jungle Khassa and Nyansook are also
muslins of considerable beauty. The weight and price of these will be found in the Table.
Other muslins from the Dacca looms are known by the following names : — Buddun
Khas, Kumees, Jhuna (much worn by dancing women), Rang, Alaballee, and Turudam
(a muslin once imported into this country under the name of Tarendam).
The other examples given in the table are the productions of other parts of India. Of
these the most celebrated and the best known, after those of Dacca, are the muslins of
Arnee in Madras. Nos. 322, Vol. IX., and 459, Vol. XII., are beautiful specimens. The piece
from which the former was cut measured 15 yards and 18 inches in length, and 52 inches
in width, weighed 13 ounces ; and cost no less than 12/. 5s., or about 15s. 9|^- per yard.f
No. of
Description.
Measurement.
Weight
of piece.
Cost.
Place of
Manufacture,
or where
obtained.
Vol.
Sample.
Length.
Width.
yds. ins.
yds. ins.
fbs. oz.
£ s. d.
VII.
241
Abrawan, or Running Water
20 0
1 0
0 1\
640
Dacca.
VII.
242
Circar Ali. Fine quality
20 0
1 0
0 6|
—
,,
VII.
243
Shubnam, or Evening Dew
19 14
0 34
o e|
340
»?
VII.
244
Tunzeb. Fine quality
21 5
1 0
o 12!
500
»
VII.
245
Nyansook. Good quality, used for
19 18
1 7
1 2j
400
>!
neckerchiefs, &c.
VII.
246
Jungle Kharssa. Good quality
21 6
1 5
1 9i
520
»
vm.
286
......
15 30
1 2
1 2|
043
Shahabad, Patna.
IX.
321
Sullah. Fine quality -
13 0
1 0
0 9
440
Cuddapah,
Madras.
IX.
322
Sullah. Superfine quality
15 18
1 16
0 13
12 5 0
Arnee, Madras.
XII.
459
Chunderhana. Second quality, for
8 0
1 2
0 12
0 18 0
«
handkerchiefs.
XII.
460
Similar to Dacca muslin in softness of
12 0
1 3
0 111
0 12 0
Hyderabad, Dec-
texture.
can. Bought in
•
Madras.
* Bolts' " Considerations on the Affairs of India," page 206. From " Cotton Manufactures of Dacca," pp. 44, 45.
•f This, ho-wever, is probably one of those instances in which the "Committee" had paid an unnaturally high
price to the native manufacturers.
MUSLINS
77
2. MUSLINS. — DOOREEA, OR STRIPED ; WHITE.
The Dooreea, or Striped Muslin, is stated to derive its name from each thread in the stripes
being composed of two threads twisted together.
No. 249, Vol. VII., is from Dacca. The length of the piece from which it was cut was
10 yards, the width 1 yard, and it weighed 13| oz. Its cost was ll. 4s., or about 2*. 4|rf.
per yard.
The five other examples given in the books and referred to in the Table, are from as many
different places, and four of them are admirable examples of their kind.
No. of
Description.
Measurement.
Weight
of piece.
Cost.
Place of
Manufacture,
or where
obtained.
Vol.
Sample.
Length.
Width.
y\~. ins.
yds. ins.
Ibs. oz.
£ s. d.
VII.
247
Bleached. Striped in the loom (eight
13 14
0 28
0 10£
Gwalior.
stripes to the inch).
VII.
248
Bleached. Striped in the loom (triple
stripes £ inch wide aiid £ inch apart.)
10 6
1 0
0 12£
—
Radnagore.
VII.
249
Bleached. Very fine. Striped in the
10 0
1 0
0 13|
1 4 0
Dacca.
loom. Stripes very fine, 14 to the
inch.
vm.
281
Coarse, unbleached. Small |-inch warp
14 18
0 301
2 2
036
Nagpore, Berar.
stripes, £ inch apart. A piece com-
prises four lengths of 3 yds. 22 ins.
There is a fag between each piece.
IX.
323
Dorreea Sullah, bleached. Stripe
£ inch wide, and £ in. apart, formed
by six narrow lines in the warp,
10 18
0 27
0 15
060
Hyderabad, Dec-
can. Bought in
Madras.
IX.
324
Good quality, bleached. 1-^-inch stripe,
14 0
1 4
1 4
0 15 0
Arnee, Madras.
formed by 12 thread lines in the
warp.
N2
78
PIECE GOODS.
3. MUSLINS. — CHARKANA, OR CHEQUERED ; WHITE.
The Charkana, or chequered muslins, is, as regards manufacture, very similar to the
Dooreea. They differ in the breadth of the stripes, their closeness to each other, and the
size of the squares.
These muslins, according to Taylor, are thought to have been " included among the
Indian cloths called diakrossia in the ' Periplus of the Erythrian Sea ' — a term which is
rendered striped by Apollonius."
Nos. 250 and 251, Vol. VII., from Dacca, and Nos. 327 and 329, Vol. IX., from Arnee,
Madras, are admirable examples of their kind. The subjoined table affords the requisite
particulars regarding this class of muslins.
No. of
Description.
Measurement.
Weight
of piece.
Cost.
Place of
Manufacture,
or where
obtained.
Vol.
Sample.
Length.
Width.
yds. ins.
yds. ins.
Ibs. oz.
£ s. d.
VET.
250
Good quality. Check. A fine lined stripe
9 26
0 351
0 15
1 0 0
Dacca.
^ inch wide, and ^ inch apart in weft
and warp.
VII.
251
Check. A f-inch lined stripe, 2| in.
9 29
I 0
0 10£
1 0 0
SJ
apart, in weft and warp.
VIII.
282
Coarse, unbleached. Small check of eight
14 18
0 241
2 Of
036
Nagpore, Berar.
lines to an inch. A piece comprises
four lengths of 3 yds. 22^ inches each,
woven with a fag between.
IX.
325
Charkana Sullah. Small check
7 0
0 33
1 4
0 5 10
Arnee, Madras.
IX.
326
Charkana Sullah. Ditto
7 0
0 34
1 1
0 5 10
„
IX.
327
Charkana Sullah. Fine quality. Check.
10 0
1 4
0 9
1 4 6
„
Double line at ^ inch distances.
IX.
328
Charkana Sullah. Coarse. Check.
13 0
1 2
1 14
080
Nellore, Madras.
Double line at £ inch distances.
IX.
329
Charhana Sullah. Finest quality.
15 18
1 4
1 2
4 11 0
Arnee, Madras.
Check, ^-inch cross stripe 1^ inch
apart.
MUSLINS.
79
!. MCSLINS. — JAMDANEE OR FIGURED.
The Jamdanee or loom-figured muslins, from the exquisite delicacy of manipulation which
many of them display, may be considered the chef-<l\cuvre of the Indian weaver. From
their complicated designs they have always constituted the most expensive productions of
the Dacca loom. Those manufactured for the Emperor Aurungzebe are stated to have cost
311. ; whilst some manufactured in 1776 reached the extravagant price of 56/. per piece.
The manufacture of the finer Jamdanee muslin was long retained as a monopoly in the
hands of Government — the weavers, as stated by Raynal, being forbidden, under pecuniary
and corporeal penalties, to sell to any person a piece exceeding the value of 72 livres, or about
three guineas. The native and the European merchants were obliged to purchase these
muslins through brokers specially appointed by Government. These agents paid a considerable
sum annually for the privilege they enjoyed, and in return they charged a per-centage on
all the sales made by them.
The following is Taylor's account of the mode of weaving this class of Muslins :—
" In manufacturing figured (Jamdanee) fabrics, two weavers sit at the loom. They
" place the pattern, drawn upon paper, below the warp, and range along the track of the
" woof a number of cut threads equal to the flowers or parts of the design intended to
" be made ; and then, with two small fine-pointed bamboo sticks, they draw each of these
" threads between as many threads of the warp as may be equal to the width of the
" figure which is to be formed. When all the threads have been brought between the
" warp they are drawn close by a stroke of the lay. The shuttle is then passed by one
" of the weavers through the shed, and the weft having been driven home, it is returned
" by the other weaver. The weavers resume their work with their pointed bamboo sticks,
" and repeat the operations with the lay and shuttle in the manner above described, observing
" each time to pass the flower threads between a greater or less number of the threads of
" the warp, in proportion to the size of the design to be formed."
No. of
Measurement.
Place of
Description.
Weight
of piece.
£ost Manufacture,
or where
Vol.
Sample.
Length.
Width.
obtained.
yds. ins.
yds. ins.
Ibs. oz.
£ s. d.
VII.
253
Figured pattern, in 1 inch squares
11 20
1 0
0 13|
3 18 0
Dacca.
closely arranged in diagonal order.
VII.
254
Figured diamond shaped pattern inter-
10 0
0 31
0 11
3 18 0
)5
sected by diagonal lines.
VII.
259
Vertical stripes, 1£ inch wide. Flowered
9 14
0 33
0 Ill-
3 18 0
»»
diamond pattern with open margins.
usually
In space between stripes, flowered
10yds.
diamond-shape spots, at intervals of
l£ ins., pass in a diagonal direction
through the whole piece.
80
PIECE GOODS.
5. MUSLINS. — WOVEN WITH COLOURED THREAD ; STRIPED, CHECKED, AND FIGURED.
No. of
Description.
Measurement.
Weight
of piece.
Cost.
Place of
Manufacture,
or where
obtained.
Vol.
Sample.
Length.
Width.
yds. ins.
yds. ins.
Iba. oz.
& s. d.
IX.
330
"Fine quality. A double stripe, green
15 0
0 32
1 0
180
Chicacole,
cotton figure. Angulated.
Madras.
IX.
337
t
Medium quality. A -| inch stripe
7 0
0 32
0 9
030
Arnee, Madras.
I
formed by 8 pink lines in warp.
aa
IX.
343
Stripes of black thread alternately
13 0
1 2
1 41
0 11 0
Nellore, Madras.
-jTf inch and £ inch in width.
IX.
332
"Check formed by J-inch stripes, 1^
15 0
0 39
1 01
0 6 11
Arnee, Madras.
inch apart, alternately pink and
green.
IX.
333
Check formed by |-inch stripes,
10 0
0 32
0 12^
0 10 0
?? ??
2 ins. apart, alternately pink and
green in warp and weft.
IX.
334
Check formed by §-inch pink stripes,
15 0
1 2
1 31
0 15 0
)> 39
2| ins. apart.
IX.
335
Check formed by a -|-inch stripe of
7 0
0 30
1 0
040
Chicacole,
4 pink lines 1^ inch apart.
Madras.
a
IX.
336
H
14 ,'
Check formed by £-inch blue stripes,
7 0
0 32
1 0
040
SJ
0 1
•
1^ ins. apart.
a
IX.
338
Check formed by narrow red lines,
7 18
1 1
0 10
030
Arnee, Madras.
J-inch apart.
\
IX.
339
Check formed by narrow red stripes,
7 0
0 32
0 15
040
Chicacole,
§-inch apart.
Madras.
IX.
340
Similar to the last, except that the
7 0
0 32
0 151
040
»
colour is green.
IX.
341
Check formed by narrow dark blue
15 0
1 2
1 5
0 15 0
Arnee, Madras.
stripes, J inch apart.
IX.
342
_ Similar to 341, but in red.
15 0
0 30
1 3
060
Chicacole, Madras.
vni.
308
"Pattern, an outline check of blue,
7 25
0 29
1 01
_
Benares.
every other row of squares being
dotted with spots alternately red
and blue.
a
VIII.
309
p}
A small dark blue figure, with crim-
8 0
1 1
1 H
—
Benares.
o *\ son centre in diagonal order, and
£
at Tr-inch distances.
IX.
331
Figure. Green and crimson flower
16 0
0 31
1 3
0 14 0
Chicacole,
in diagonal order, at 2 inch dis-
Madras.
tances.
MUSLINS.
6. MUSLINS. — PRINTED.
81
No. of
Description.
Measurement.
Weight
of Piece.
Cost.
Place of
Manufacture,
or where
obtained.
Vol.
Sample.
Length.
Width.
yds. ins.
yds. ins.
Ibs. oz.
& s. d.
IX.
344
Black ground, square red spots, with
4 9
1 0
0 7
040
Trichinopoly,
yellow centres, alternating with triple
Madras.
spots of white.
IX.
345
Crimson ground, 2-inch squares formed
4 18
1 0
0 7
040
Ditto.
by cross diagonal rows of square green
spots, with central dotted circular
figure.
IX.
346
Black ground, squares formed by white
4 18
1 0
o 71
040
Ditto.
spots, cucli square enclosing four
square red spots, with yellow centiv.
IX.
347
Crimson ground, irregular squares of
4 18
1 0
0 6i
040
Madras.
yellow spots, each square enclosing
four green spots and a circular centre
of yellow spots.
IX.
348
Black ground, 1^ inch square, formed
4 18
1 0
0 71
050
Ditto.
by diagonal rows of alternately square
spots (.red), and triple spot (yellow),
with a circular centre figure of white
spots.
rx.
349
Crimson ground, angulated cross stripes
4 27
0 38
0 6
040
Ditto.
of white spots, with square green
spots in similar order intervening.
IX.
350
Crimson ground, curved scroll and
4 18
1 2
0 6|
040
Cuddapah,
straight lines of white spots, inter-
Madras.
spersed with square green spots, with
yellow centres.
7. MUSLINS. — GOLD AND SILVER PRINTED.
For a description of the process by which this kind of ornamentation is effected, see p. 19.
It will be observed that in two of the examples referred to in the table the paint-brush has
been employed in order to produce effect.
\ No. of
Description.
Measurement.
Weight
of Piece.
Cost.
Place of
Manufacture,
or where
obtained.
Vol.
Sample.
Length.
Width.
yds. ins.
yds. ins.
Ibs. oz.
£ s. d.
vn.
271
Plain white muslin, flower printed in gold
in diagonal order, at 1^-inch distances.
9 27
1 25
1 0
Jeypore, Rajpoo-
tana.
vn.
272'
Dyed muslin. Dotted diagonal lines in
silver, forming squares, each enclo-
0 33
1 5
0 3
046
Hyderabad,
Deccan.
sing a spot of silver, the centre of
each spot being dotted (by hand) with
a small scarlet spot, ticked with black.
vn.
273
Piece incomplete. Dyed muslin. A star
0 33
1 7
0 3
046
Hyderabad,
pattern in silver, in diagonal order at
Deccan.
1^-inch distances, encircled by dotted
wreath-shaped pattern. In centre of
each flower a dark green and black
spot, painted by hand. Border* (11 in.)
a scroll flower pattern, with " Kutar "
pattern in inner edge, printed in
silver, and striped by hand with green
and black.
* Only some of the examples in the books show this.
82
PIECE GOODS.
CALICOES, &c.
We have now to speak of the Calicoes and other cotton fabrics, which at one time occupied
such an important place in the list of exports from India to this and other European
countries.* It is not our purpose to enter here into the question of the value of the trade
in textiles now existing between India and other parts of the world, but the facts shown in
the following Table are so suggestive that we have been induced to include it in the present
work.
As contrasted with the value of the cotton goods imported into India, the value of those
exported from it to other countries is comparatively small. It is interesting to observe,
however, that during the 15 years comprehended in the Table, the total value of the
exports of cotton manufactures from India, so far from declining, has actually increased.
It will be observed that the value of the calicoes and yarns she sends to Great Britain
varies considerably from year to year, and has, on the whole, diminished. This diminution
during the two years 1863-4 and 1864-5 has, however, been much more than balanced by
increased exports to China, Arabia, Persia, and other parts.
TABLE showing the VALUE of COTTON GOODS (including TWIST and YAKN) exported from India and each
Presidency to all parts of the World from 1850-51 to 1864-5.
COUNTRIES TO WHICH EXPORTED.
Years.
Whence
Exported.
United
Kingdom.
France.
Other
parts of
Europe.
America.
China.
Arabian
and Persian
Gulfs.
Other
parts.
Value of
Total
Exported
to all parts.
Value.
Value.
Value.
Value.
Value.
Value.
Value.
£
£
£
£
£
£
&
Bengal -
917
4
—
942
1,289
17,364
93,403
113,919
1 850-5 !<
Madras -
Bombay -
46,054
1,830
246
—
54
12
1,442
3,261
267,992
125,106
77,735
174,733
348,999
I
ALL INDIA
48,801
250
—
996
2,743
288,617
296,244
637,651
r
Bengal -
794
—
—
861
929
11,908
103,046
117,538
1851-52^
Madras -
Bombay -
70,163
11
1
2
774
3,087
305,862
132,562
118,493
205,814
425,141
L
ALL INDIA
70,968
—
—
862
!>705
320,857
354,101
748,493
r
Bengal -
461
—
40
1,572
8,310
13,990
99,948
124,321
1852-53 J
Madras -
Bombay -
136,095
66
113
112
1
56
1,749
1,521
411,663
123,981
130,379
261,767
543,969
I
ALL INDIA
136,622
225
40
J-573
10,115
427,174
354,308
930,057
r
Bengal
4,681
35
—
2,775
474
16,246
16,125
40,336
j
Madras -
102,607
- —
—
1
—
2,077
105,262
209,946
K53-54<
Bombay -
818
—
—
—
353
363,460
154,226
518,857
L
ALL INDIA
108,106
35
—
2,776
827
381,783
275,6i3
769,139
r
Bengal -
15,018
—
—
270
758
20,125
16,722
52,893
1854-55^
Madras -
Bombay -
68,050
512
3,592
700
392,965
114,405
183,986
1 S3, 155
581,055
L
ALL INDIA
83,580
—
—
270
4,350
413,790
3'5,H3
817,103
r
Bengal -
1,440
814
423
89
1,006
11,288
16,124
31,184
1855-56^
Madras -
Bombay - - -
35,410
288
39
, ,
253
553
648
431,386
97,532
181,944
133,882
614,171
L
ALL INDIA
37,'38
853
423
342
',559
443,322
295,600
779>237
f
Bengal -
5,352
224
185
104
328
33,117
13,226
52,536
J
Madras -
39,952
42
—
40
• 2
1.086
84,599
125,721
1856-57^
Bombay -
30
—
—
—
878
493,443
208,216
702,567
L
ALL INDIA
45,334
266
'85
144
1,208
527,646
306,041
880,824
f
Bengal -
1,504
10
350
345
29,210
24,939
25,315
81,673
1 K^7 f P J
Madras - - -
33,515
98
—
—
—
1,246
94,197
129,056
1OO i—tjC s
Bombay -
78
—
—
—
2,425
428,534
167,417
598,454
L
ALL INDIA
35-097
1 08
350
345
31,635
454,719
286,929
809,183
* Muslins were also exported to a considerable extent.
CALICOES.
83
TABLE showing the YM.I i »f COTTON: (»OODS, &c. exported I'roin Iixliji tVuni IH.jO-.jl t<> 18(54-65 — continued.
COUNTIIIES TO WHICH KxrouTED.
Years.
Whence
Exported.
United
Kingdom.
France.
Other
parts of
Europe.
America.
China.
Arabian
and Persian
Gulfs.
Other
parti.
Value of
Total
Kxported
to all parts.
Value.
Value.
Value.
Value.
Value.
Value.
Value.
£
£,
£
£ £
£
£
Bengal
3,686
338
—
339 22'J
15,077
13,661
33,820
Madras -
83,594
78
—
—
987
89,460
113,119
Bombay -
17
1,198
504,836
160,614
r,r,<;,665
ALL INDIA
26,297
3,6
—
339
1,427
52I>5°°
263,725
813,604
Bengal -
1,510
167
35
518
4,816
10,128
9,112
26,286
Madras -
27,284
41 1 11
1
—
801
83,609
111,747
Bombay -
310
—
—
—
7,558
387,813
229,872
625,553
Ai.i, INDIA
29,104
208
46
5'9
'2,374
398,742
322,593
763,586
{Bengal -
293
5
246
1,185
3,885
16,762
22,376
Madras -
39,617
822
—
—
5
224
82,419
123,087
Bombay -
17
—
—
—
9,944
433,095
190,596
633,652
ALL INDIA
39,927
827
—
246
",I34
437,204
289,777
779,"S
r
Bengal -
740
156
—
779
8,476
10,259
20,410
1861-G2-|
Madras -
Bombay -
52,070
4.'ir>
1,162
— •
r
12
6,560
1,080
359,583
91,471
213,019
145,795
579,597
[
ALL INDIA
53,245
I,3l8
—
—
7,35' 369,'39
314,749
745,802
r
Bengal -
678
33
—
179 1,345
4,935
16,708
23,878
1862-63-j
Madras -
Bombay -
51,193
1,496
—
z
454
259
331,781
79,687
296,356
132,635
628,591
[
ALL INDIA
5'>8?i
'.529
—
179
',799
336,975
392,751
785,104
r
Bengal -
904
958
—
14
6,469
13,934
97,297
119,576
1863-64^
Madras -
Bombay -
23,070
513
802
z
—
25,158
16
582,910
103,300
307,768
127,188
916,349
I
ALL INDIA
24,487
1,760
—
14
31,627
596,860
508,365
1,163,113
r
B engal -
3,769
71
__
153
5,773
2,118
66,992
78,876
icr< r- J Madras -
5,573
315
—
—
—
218
90,713
96,819
18G4-H Bombay-
259
—
—
—
29,558
542,522
295,558
867,897
[ Ai.i. INDIA
9,601
386
—
153
35,331
544,858
453,263
1,043,592
CALICOES. — BLEACHED AND UNBLEACHED.
The next Table will be found to give the necessary details connected with the calicoes
and other plain cotton fabrics, of which examples are given in the books. The first group
in the Table will be found to refer to the common unbleached fabrics which, under names
varying in different localities, constitute a large proportion of the clothing of the poor.
They are also used for packing goods, and as a covering for the dead, for which last purpose
a large quantity is employed both by Hindoos and Mahomedans. These fabrics in Bengal
pass under the names of Garrha and Guzee. In Western and Southern India they are known
under the more general term of Khadi,* which includes a greater variety in quality of
material. The manufacture in India of the commoner of these fabrics is not likely to be
affected by competition with European fabrics, for the native-made thread of which they
consist can be sold at a less price than any similar yarn as yet exported from this country.
(3428.)
* Dungaree is the common Bombay designation.
O
84
PIECE GOODS.
The second group in the Table includes bleached goods. The first example given,
No. 463, Vol. XII., is perhaps as beautiful a specimen of calico as it is possible to produce.*
In this division, likewise, will be found some specimens like the ordinary Punjum cloths,
which during the last century occupied such a prominent place in the exports from Madras.
The usual lengths of such cloths were 38 cubits, or 18 yards, and they varied in width
from 38 to 44 inches, 14 Ibs. being the common weight. Pieces of half the above-named
length were exported under the name of Salempores.
No. of
Description.
Measurement.
Weight
of Piece.
Cost.
Place of
Manufacture,
or where
obtained.
Vol.
Sample.
Length.
Width.
yds. ins.
yds. ins.
Ibs. oz.
£ s. d.
vm.
305
'Coarse gauze-like fabric, used for
Sarees, &c. (piece incomplete).
2 12
1 1
0 6f
—
Benares.
vm.
vm.
302
303
•aanov:
Coarse (piece incomplete) -
Gurrah cloth (ditto)
2 111
9 19
0 28
0 21
0 8^
1 5f
—
Ditto.
Ditto.
vm.
304
•
3
S3
2
Coarse
2 14
1 0
0 12
—
Ditto.
VIII.
306
Gurrah cloth, coarse
2 12
0 27
0 3f
—
Ditto.
xn.
470
^Punjum cloth
35 0
1 0
—
096
Vizagapatam,
Madras.
xn.
463
Tine quality, made to order
33 0
1 0
4 14
900
Eajamundry,
Madras.
xn.
464
Watered Isree, longcloth, good quality
11 24
1 0
2 4
1 6 0
Nellore, Madras.
XII.
465
Isree, plain, longcloth. mediumquality
6 18
0 31
1 12
040
Vizagapatam,
Madras.
xn.
466
i
Punjum cloth (22's), coarse quality -
10 9
1 4
2 5
070
Nellore, Madras.
XII.
467
9
Ditto (20>s), (ditto)
18 18
1 2
4 14
0 18 0
Vizagapatam,
vm.
297
«
Gurrah cloth, 1st quality
12 18
0 28
2 12
040
Agra, N.W.
Provinces.
VIII.
299
Ditto ditto
16 18
0 31
3 12
030
Patna.
vm.
300
Ditto -
12 0
0 34
3 0
040
Agra.
VIII.
301
JDhootee cloth
4 12
1 0
1 4
—
Bhurtpore.
vm.
298
"Guzzy cloth, 2d quality
17 18
0 18
1 13-
020
Agra.
IV.
142
•f.
Bleached cotton material. An imi-
tation of English moleskin.
9 20
0 26
5 5
0 12 10£
Loodiana,
Punjab.
XII.
469
MlSCELl
Unbleached figured dimity for sheet-
ing, called soojney.
3 0
1 17
1 14
063
Madras.
XII.
468
Canvas bleached (kind of Duck)
12 0
0 30
5 0
070
Nellore, Madras.
* An attempt was made to determine the length of the filaments or staple of which this and other specimens
are made. The discrepancies in the results obtained led to the rejection of the great majority of the measure-
ments. In the present instance it would appear that the mean length of the staple would not exceed six-tenths
of an inch.
COLOURED COTTON GOODS.
85
CANVAS.— COTTON.
The next group is one which will be regarded with interest. It embraces specimens of the
fabrics used in the construction of the tents,* which for mouths of every year constitute the
home of a considerable portion of the European community in India. It also embraces
specimens of the canvas employed for the sails of the numerous vessels which ply between
the different Eastern ports. The strength, lightness, and other good qualities of the cotton
sailcloth manufactured in India recommend it to more attention than it has hitherto received
in this country. The quantity of cotton annually consumed in India in the manufacture of
sail and tent cloth is very large.
No. of
Description.
Measurement
Weight
of Piece.
Cost
Place of
Manufacture,
or wlitn
obtained.
Vol.
Sample.
Length.
Width.
XII.
471a
"Canvas of large Indian tent, exhi-
bited in 1851.
yds. ins.
yds. ins.
Ibs. oz.
£ s. d.
Jubbulpore.
xn.
471
sj
5 <
H
Dungaree, for tents (piece incomplete)
—
0 15£
—
Salem, Madras.
XII.
474
I
Dungaree. Quality occasionally used
for tents.
11 0
0 23
2 6
020
vm.
307
ta
H
O
Thick and stout, 1st quality, bleached.
Orange, green, and red stripes at
about a yard from end of piece.
5 0
0 22J
4 12£
026
Cutch, Bombay.
XII.
472
5
DO
Country canvas
19 0
0 23
10 11
096
Rajahmundry,
Madras.
xn.
473
^Dungaree, unbleached
16 0
0 23
6 10
060
Salem, Madras.
COLOURED COTTON GOODS.
We come now to the coloured cotton piece goods in which the yarn itself has been first dyed.
In the arrangement of this group we have as far as possible paid attention to the function
which the articles are intended to fulfil. For instance, in the Table which follows, the fabrics
designed for trouserings will be found, whilst in the next are inserted those used for skirts
or petticoats.
It must not, however, be supposed that some of the examples so classified may not be
equally suitable for both purposes or for more purposes than one ; indeed, we know that
they very often are so employed — what is used for skirts by the women being frequently
employed as trousering by men.
1. COTTON. — WOVEN WITH COLOURED THREAD ; CHIEFLY USED FOR TROUSERS.
In the first division in the following Table we have included specimens showing a
material and pattern called Sousee, which is chiefly employed for trousering, and which
very frequently, as we afterwards shall have occasion to show, is composed of a mixture
* Kathee and Salembaree are names given to the fabrics of which tents are made.
o 2
86
PIECE GOODS.
of cotton and silk. The patterns of these Sousee-cloths are very similar, although the
product of places very distant from each other.
The second group in the Table comprehends a class of goods of a considerably stouter
description, and affords examples of the thick, warm stuffs which we have already stated
to be so acceptable at certain periods of the year in India.*
No. of
Description.
Measurement.
Weight
of Piece.
Cost.
Place of
Manufacture,
or where
obtained.
Vol.
Sample.
Length.
Width.
yds. ins.
yds. ins.
Ibs. oz.
£ s. d.
II.
70
'Green ground, brown stripes (4 to the
8 9
1 0
1 9
076
Mylapore, or St.
inch), speckled with white, made
Thomas's,
by Lubbays, and extensively used.
Madras.
II.
74
Coarse. Stripes of blue thread,
6 18
1 0
1 11
0 2 71
Kurnool, Madras,
dotted with white on a chocolate
coloured ground. Worn by the
Lubbays.
IV.
132
Blue, narrow ^ inch figured stripes,
2 32
0 18
0 61
030
Shikarpore.
alternately white and crimson, and
dark blue and yellow.
IV.
133
Black, £ inch plain red stripes, | inch
2 35
0 17
0 4
023
Surat, Bombay.
apart.
IV.
135
ri
Blue. White and crimson stripe,
2 30
0 18
0 4
020
Shikarpore, Sinde.
-
Ul
g- inch wide, 1^ inch apart.
IV.
136
p
O
Blue weft, blue and crimson warp,
7 31
0 21
0 14
020
Surat, Bombay.
CG
_. J
with very narrow stripes of white
0^
and blue, 14 to the inch.
IV.
137
\
O
Red, striped, with very narrow white
7 0
0 22
0 14
020
Surat, Bombay.
O
lines, ^ inch apart.
IV.
138
*-'
Red warp, blue weft, £ inch stripes,
15 29
0 20
1 5
050
Surat, Bombay.
y inch apart, of pale blue.
IV.
139
Yellow, ^ inch stripes, white and
2 34
0 18
0 51
020
Shikarpore, Sind.
black, £ inch apart.
IV.
140
Pale blue, with ^ inch stripes of
3 3
0 18
0 5i
020
Surat, Bombay.
white, § inch apart, with inter-
vening lines in dark blue, yellow,
and crimson.
XI.
418
Small, £ inch, dark blue stripe
10 0
0 20
2 2
030
Palamcottah.
(warp) on a ground of white thread
in the warp, and blue in the weft.
XII.
453
Blue ground, with narrow stripes of
6 0
0 29
0 15
0 2 41
Coonatoor,
yellow.
Madras.
IX.
357
Red warp, blue weft
6 9
0 25
0 101
030
Coonatoor,
Madras.
XII.
450
Red warp, blue weft, used for trouserings
6 0
0 26
0 10
030
Syempettah,
and petticoats by Mahomedans.
Madras.
IV.
143
'Black and white striped pattern, ^ inch
3 0
0 28
1 5
0 1 6
Loodiana,
black stripe, ^ inch apart.
Punjab.
IV.
144
Black and white striped pattern, blue
2 24
0 25
1 31
0 1 6
Ditto.
threads running through stripe,
•
K
£ inch black stripe, $ inch apart.
IV.
145
1
Dark blue, angulated striped pattern
3 0
0 25
1 8
0 1 6
Ditto.
IV.
146
3
H
Grey check
7 0
0 27
1 101
050 Ditto.
IV.
147
1
Dark grey, black and blue cross
3 0
0 26
1 2"
0 1 6
Ditto.
f~:
stripes f inch apart.
IV.
148
I*
Black corded material with a dark
3 2
0 27
i 7*
030
Ditto.
fe
blue weft.
IV.
149
i
Small dark blue, check or plaid pattern. 3 0
0 25
0 111
020
Ditto.
IV.
150
H
O
Black ground, with check of dark
6 4
0 25
1 51
050
Ditto.
O
blue, g inch lines, ^ inch apart.
XII.
455
<N
Stout twill, a figured pattern in dark
5 11
0 25
1 10
0 4 11
Cuddalore.
I red, blue, and white.
XII.
456
Stout twill, figured pattern, blue and
5 12
0 22
1 10
026
Ditto.
(__ white.
* Some of the specimens shown here and elsewhere have been manufactured by the native weaver to suit
European wants in India.
COTTON' CIIIXKS, &C.
87
'2. COTTON. — WOVK.N WITH COLOURED TIIKEAD ; CUIKKI.Y i OK SKIKTS.
Of the two groups contained in this Table, the first comes from Nepal and the second
from Pegu. Both are interesting as showing characteristics in manufacture of places widely
separated. Of the peculiar skirt materials employed by the women of Pegu, other examples
will be found under the head of silk piece goods.
N,,. of
Description.
Measurement.
Weight
of piece.
Cost.
Place of
Manufacture,
or where
obtained.
Vol.
Sample.
Length.
Width.
yds. ins.
yds. ins.
Ibs. oz.
£ s. ,1.
VI.
236
Dark blue, with stripes of yellow,
5 11
0 29
—
—
Kathamandoo,
brown, and white. Coarse.
Nepal.
VI.
237
Brown stripes, dotted alternately
6 0
0 30
2 9
Katliamandoo.
with yellow mid white spotted
Nepal.
figure, which is, however, omitted
in the last 9 inches of the piece.
VI.
238
Dark blue, with a j-inch stripe (blue
5 0
0 31 19
Kathamandoo,
and white chequered pattern),
Nepal.
1 <
£ inch apart.
VI.
239
Blue, with, in some portion of piece,
4 25
0 28
1 11
—
Kathaman*!
crimson thread in the weft. Stripes
Nepal.
£ inch wide and \ inch apart, dark
blue, with flashed white spots at
intervals, and edges of red and
yellow.
VI.
240
Plain, chocolate colour. £-inch stripes
5 0
0 28 1 10
Kathamandoo,
£ inch apart, alternately blue and
Nepal.
yellow and blue and white.
VI.
230
Blue warp and red weft throughout,
2 16
0 23 0 6i
Pegu.
with triple rows of cross stripes in
yellow (weft threads) to 14 inches
from the upper part of the skirt
piece, which is white cotton, in
the weft. The piece is the i length.
the other portion being similar to
the sample. Worn by Burmese
women.
VI.
231
Blue warp, pink weft throughout, 2 12
0 23i 0 6£
^_
Pegu.
with triple rows of green stripes
(weft thread) in the lower part
of the skirt, and closer stripes of
green divided by 3 blue stripes
nearer the upper part, 1 3 inches
of which is of the, plain material.
The sample shows one-half tin-
whole length of the piece, the
other half being similar to thf
pattern. Worn byBurmese women
VI.
232
Blue warp, white weft throughout,
2 8
0 22 0 6£
Pegu.
2<
with triple rows of yellow stripes
(weft) in the lower part of the
skirt, and closer stripes of yellow
divided by 3 dark blue cross stripes
nearer the upper part, 13 inches
of which is of the plain material.
The sample shows one-half the
whole length of the piece, the
other half being similarto pattern.
Worn by Burmese women.
88
PIECE GOODS.
No. of
Measurement.
Place of
Description.
Weight
of Piece.
Cost.
Manufacture,
or where
Vol.
Sample.
Length.
Width.
obtained.
yds. ins.
yds. ins.
Ibs. oz.
£ s. d.
VI.
233
The lower part of skirt piece has
20
0
0 24
0 61
—
Pegu.
quadruple rows of dark blue cross
stripes, on a green ground of blue
(warp) and yellow (weft), with a
group of narrower stripes near
the upper part, which, for 13 ins.,
is of blue (warp) and pink (weft).
Sample shows one-half the full
length of piece, the other half
being similar to pattern. Worn
by Burmese women.
3. COTTON. — WOVEN WITH COLOURED THREAD ; CHECKS AND TAIITAN PATTERNS.
In the following Table will be found various checks and tartans, many of which are
admirable imitations of well-known patterns in this country. They are chiefly used for
skirts, petticoats, &c. Some of the shepherd tartans are also used for making up into
trousers.
No. of
Description.
Measurement.
Weight
of piece.
Cost.
Place of
Manufacture,
or where
obtained.
Vol.
Sample.
Length.
Width.
yds. ins.
yds. ins.
Ibs. oz.
£ s. d.
VIII.
313
Stripes, |-inch, alternately yellow and
6 18
0 23
1 51
030
Broach, Bombay.
blue in the warp, and green, crimson,
and blue in the weft.
vm.
314
Large tartan pattern
12 0
0 221
2 111
060
Broach, Bombay.
VIII.
316
Large tartan pattern. Blue, white, black,
8 15
0 25
1 12
060
Loodiana,
and pink twill.
Punjab.
VIII.
317
Small check of yellow ^-inch stripe in
5 26
0 25
0 121
030
Loodiana,
weft and warp, alternately with £ inch
Punjab.
of unbleached cotton,
VIII.
318
Large blue check on a plain ground,
8 33
0 26
1 1
030
Loodiana,
intersected by quadruple lines of pink
Punjab.
in weft and warp.
IX.
359
Tartan pattern -
6 0
0 21
0 14
040
Pulicat, Madras.
IX.
360
Tartan pattern -
6 0
0 22
0 14
040
Mylapore,
Madras.
XI.
401
Tartan pattern -
6 0
0 21
0 13
0 3 101
Ditto.
XL
402
Tartan pattern -
5 27
0 21
0 13
030
Coonatoor,
Madras.
XI.
403
Small black and white check on a red
11 21
0 22
1 3
056
Tanjore, Madras.
ground.
COTTON CHECKS, A:c.
89
No. of
Description.
Measurement
Weight
of J
Cost.
Place of
Manufacture,
or wlu'tv
obtained.
Vol.
Sample
Length.
Width.
XI.
404
Small ilurk green check on a ground of
a lighter green shade.
yds. ins.
6 0
yds. ins.
0 31
Ibs. oz.
0 12
£ •. d.
050
Cuddaloiv,
Madras.
XI.
405
Small dark blue check on a dark crim-
son ground.
6 0
0 31
0 14
046
Cuddalorc,
Madras.
XL
406
An open check of blue, with a red lino
in centre of main stripes, on an un-
coloured ground.
:> 20
0 26
0 11
020
Pulicat, Madras.
XL
407
Check, £-inch stripes of blue in weft and
warp, £ inch apart, with crimson line
margins, on a green ground.
5 23
0 22
0 14
040
Mylapore,
Madras.
XL
408
Uncoloured ground. An open check of
^-inch stripes of light green, J-inch
apart, with 4 intervening lines in the
same colour.
6 13
0 25
0 12
6drs.
026
Coonatoor,
Madras.
XI.
409
A light green check, £-inch stripes one
way, £-inch the other, on an un-
coloured ground.
6 8
0 25
0 121
026
Coonatoor,
Madras.
XI.
410
An open check of green stripes, 1 inch
apart, with double lined check of
scarlet thread intervening, on an nn-
coloured ground.
7 6
0 26
0 12
026
Coonatoor,
Madras.
i
XI.
411
An open check of red stripes with blue
margins, and subordinate check of
two blue lines intervening, on an un-
coloured ground.
6 30
0 26
0 11
026
Coonatoor,
Madras.
XL
412
An open check of alternate blue and
crimson stripes on an uncoloured
ground.
6 0
0 28
0 14
030
Pulicat, Madrai.
XI.
413
Check. A ^-inch stripe of green and
scarlet in weft and warp, with a
slender green line intervening, on an
uncoloured ground.
6 26
0 26
0 15
046
Teroomaly,
Madras.
XI.
414
Check, a blue and red stripe, f-inch in
warp, rather narrower in the weft,
and •£ inch apart, with a fine white
line in centre of each stripe, on an
uncoloured ground.
7 0
0 26
0 1.5
039
Coonatoor,
Madras.
XL
41
Tartan pattern -
6 9
0 18
1 0
036
Matmlipatam,
Madras.
XI.
416
Small blue and white check
10 27
0 20
1 10
036
Cuddalore,
Madras.
XL
417
Ditto ditto
6 0
0 27
I 10
060
Ditto.
XII.
454
Small black and white check
8 0
0 32
2 5
053
Masulipatam,
Madras.
90 PIECE GOODS.
PRINTED COTTON GOODS.
The next group of cotton fabrics which we have to consider consists of those in which
printing is employed. It naturally sub-divides itself into two, first those in which the pattern
is printed on a white ground, and second those in which it is printed on a coloured ground.
Fabrics of this character are used chiefly for women's skirts or petticoats, but they are
also used for Sarees — a portion of the piece, of a proper length, being cut off, and borders
and ends being occasionally added. In addition to these uses they are also pretty largely
employed to make counterpanes, linings for tents, &c.
Among the specimens in the books there are some good and some bad, — that is as regards
the character and execution of the printing. They exhibit, however, in a very satisfactory
manner, the style of pattern which pleases the Indian taste and which proves saleable.
One characteristic of this style is that the pattern is small. Large, staring, gaudy patterns
are evidently not popular. The native taste condemns and rejects them. Indeed it is clear
that the principles of art are more likely to be violated when the pattern is large than when
it is small.
As regards execution, it will be found that Native work is not equal to European. Our
machinery and appliances are more perfect, and our printing is consequently better. But
while this is true, as the rule, there are marked exceptions ; and among the specimens in
the Books will be found some which are as beautiful and as well finished as anything the
British manufacturer can produce.
The native dyer and printer has attained great skill in fixing his colours, and this point
is one which deserves serious consideration. It must always be remembered that the body-
clothing of the Hindu is frequently washed, and by a process which is extremely rough.
It is essential, therefore, that the colours should be thoroughly fast. A failure in this
entirely destroys the value of the fabric, and hence many of the prints sent from this
country have fallen into disrepute, — our manufacturers not having fully recognized the
necessity of sending no printed goods to India but those in which all the colours are fast.
Dyed and printed cotton fabrics are produced in many parts of India, or perhaps more
properly speaking here and there over the whole country. Masulipatam, Arnee, and Sydapet,
in the Madras Presidency, are famous for their Chefee or Chintzes.* Those of Masulipatam
are known under the name of kalam-kouree (which literally means "firm colour") and
exhibit great variety in style and quality.
As already indicated these printed goods have been divided into two groups — those in which
the printing is on a white, and those in which it is on a coloured ground. These are given
in the three following tables. The second of the Tables contains one specimen (Vol. VIII.
320), which is simply dyed and not printed. The third contains nothing but Palempores
or bed-covers, some of which are admirable illustrations of Indian printing (151, 152, 153,
154, and 155, Vol. IV.), while others (156 and 157, Vol. IV.) can scarcely be praised.
* This word (from Chhint, Hind : — variegated), as well as Calico, is of Indian origin, and in that fact we have
another indication of the position which India once occupied as an exporter of Cotton manufactures.
COTTON Pill VI v
TABLE 1. COTTON. — PRINTED ; WHITE GROUND.
No. of
ption.
Measurement,
\v,
(>!']•
Cost
niuiiiifiicture,
or win-re
obtaimil.
Vol.
Sample.
Length.
Width.
\I!K. ills.
yds. ins.
1))S. OZS.
£ .1. (1.
VIII.
310
1 ';it 1 1 TII, i-inch diagonal * tripes of flow TS,
& -2*!,
1 1
1 4?
—
Futtygurh,
of two diflvivnt patterns. H-inch apart :
N.V.I'.
in intervening space, sprigs of flowers
at ^-inch distances, also in diu
nrdtT. Colours, red, greon, and
black.
VIII.
311
Pattern, a §-inch circular flower and
5 30|
1 H
1 41
Futtygni-h.
foliage in close diagonal order.
Colours, green and red.
VIII.
312
A we'll filled inch check pattern of small
5 3H
l 1H
1 .-,\
Futtygurh.
foliage and flowers in green, red, and
black.
X.
368
Small, close, figured pattern in red, on a
3 24
l 5
0 15£
020
Masulipatam,
white ground.
Madras.
X.
369
Rather coarse texture. Neat pattern, in
5 26
l l
1 5
039
Masulipatani,
led and black, of flowers arranged in
Madras.
diagonal rows.
X.
370
Good pattern and material. Pattern, a
3 27
1 2
080
Masulipatam,
small neat bouquet, in red, blue, and
Madras.
black, in diagonal order, on a white
ground of bleached cotton.
X.
376
Pattern, a small red circle, in diagonal
3 18
1 6
0 14
0 2 H
Pommy,
.
rowa at £-inch distances. On this piece
Madras.
is a slight border of three printed red
lines.
X.
377
Pattern, a red flower with black stalk,
3 18
1 8
0 14
020
Arcot, Madras.
arranged, diagonally, in rows, on a white
ground dotted throughout with small
black spots.
X.
378
Pattern, a small red foliage and flower
3 18
1 8
0 14
020
Ditto.
figure running throughout the piece.
X.
379
Pattern (imperfectly printed), a small
3 18
1 2
0 12
020
Ditto.
dotted figure in red.
X.
381
Pattern, flowered figure in red and black,
3 18
1 5
1 0
020
Ditto.
intersected by cross diagonal lines and
curves of the same character.
X.
382
Pattern, a large red flower, with black
3 18
1 0
0 12
020
Ditto.
stems and foliage, in diagonal rows.
X.
383
Pattern, a red stripe edged and figured
9 18
1 0
2 12
0 4 11
Ponnary,
with black, and on the intervening
Madras.
white space or stripe, a small red
flower with black foliage running
throughout.
X.
388
Pattern (good), a small flower in dark blue
6 0
1 0
1 5
046
Masulipatam,
and red, arranged in diagonal rows.
Madras.
(3428.)
92
PIECE GOODS.
TABLE 1. COTTON. — PRINTED, &c. — cont.
No. of
Description.
Measurement,
Weight
of Piece.
Cost.
Place of
Manufacture,
or where
obtained.
Vol.
Sample
Length.
Width.
X.
387
Pattern, a small flower sprig in black and
brown, arranged in diagonal rows.
yds. ins.
5 0
yds. ins.
1 0
Ibs. oz.
0 15
& s. d.
020
Sydapat,
Madras.
X.
390
Coarse cotton. Pattern, a flowered pine,
of good design, 3^ ins. in length and in
close order. Colours, yellow, red, and
black.
5 27
1 0
1 12
0 3 11
Ditto.
X.
391
Coarse cotton. Pattern, a large flowered
pine, 6^ ins. long, in black and brown,
on a plain ground.
6 0
1 0
1 12
0 3 11
Ditto.
X.
398
White ground. Print. A large flower
and foliage pattern, in black and dark.
5 0
1 4
0 9
0 2 7i
Arcot, Madras.
X.
399
Print. A large leaf and scroll pattern in
green and black.
5 0
1 4
1 3
0 2 11
Ditto.
X.
400
Print. Well designed scroll and foliage
pattern, in black and green on a white
ground.
•
5 0
1 4
1 7
0 2 71
Ditto.
TABLE 2. COTTON. — PRINTED ; COLOURED GROUND.
No. of
Description.
Measurement.
Weight
of piece.
Cost.
Place of
manufacture,
or where
obtained.
Vol.
Sample.
Length.
Width.
yds. ins.
yds. ins.
Ibs. ozs.
& s. d.
VIII.
315
Peshgcer. A material of English thread,
5 0
0 32
1 21
040
Shikarpore,
woven and. printed in India. Used
Sind.
for petticoats of poorer classes. A deep
crimson cotton, surface coloured, with
flowered pattern in black with white
spots, in diagonal order.
VIII.
319
Yellow cotton, surface coloured. Print,
5 26
1 1*
'l 51
Futtygurh,
a small rose in red and green, in
N.W.P.
diagonal order.
X.
372
A large pine pattern in black and white,
7 18
1 0
1 12
0 3 11
Bellary, Madras.
printed on a deep red or scarlet (sur-
face coloured) ground. Used for petti-
coats.
'
X.
373
Red ground. Pattern, a figured stripe in
4 0
1 6
1 1
0 2 71
Ponnary, Madras.
black and white alternately with a
small scrolled pattern of foliage and
1
flowers.
X.
374
Coarse Fabric. Red ground. Pattern,
7 0
0 30
1 7
020
Arcot, Madras.
a flower in white, black, and badly
printed green, and arranged in diagonal
rows.
COTTON FEINTS.
TABLE 2. COTTON. — PRINTED, &c.—
93
No. of
Description.
Measurement.
Weight
of 1'iiw.
Cost.
Place of
Manufacture,
or when-
obtained.
Vol.
Sample
Length.
Width.
yds. ins.
yds. ins.
Ibs. oz.
& S. (/.
X.
375
Coarse fabric. Red ground, with 1-inch
9 0
1 0
•2 10
0 4 11
Ponnary, Madras.
figured stripes in black and white, f
inch apart. In intervening spaces,
rows of small pines in black and white,
with patches of green apparently
added by hand.
X.
380
Imperfectly printed. Black ground,
4 18
1 4
1 3
0 3 11
Ponnary, Madras.
with a small white star-shaped flower
in the centre of a circle, formed by a
small flowered pattern in red and
white.
X.
384
A chocolate red ground. Pattern, small
6 18
1 7
1 12
0 3 101
Ponnary, Madras.
white dots forming zigzag strip. -
running across the piece.
X.
385
Dark brown ground. Pattern, a small
7 0
0 19
1 9
033
Bellary, Madras.
" creeper " - like figure in white
throughout, with a red flower at inter-
vals, and in diagonal rows.
X.
386
Deep red ground. Pattern, smallf-inch
4 0
1 6
1 1
0 2 7£
Ponnary, Madras.
squares, formed by black and white
dotted lines ; in centre of each square
a small star-shaped figure, also in
black and white.
X.
389
Deep red ground. Pattern, a small
5 18
1 6
1 8
0 3 41
Ditto.
white pine in the centre of a square
formed by faint diagonal lines of
white spots.
X.
392
Deep red ground, ^-inch stripes of dark
7 0
0 29
I 9
020
Arcot, Madras.
red, not quite close together, to give
the effect of a narrow white stripe on a
red ground. Badly printed.
X.
393
Black ground. Pattern, rows of small
9 0
1 2
2 8
0 4 11
Ponnary, Madras.
white spots in diagonal order. A
pattern and colour much used by the
Parsees.
X.
394
Eed ground. Pattern, horizontal stripes
7 0
0 31
1 12
023
Ponnary, Madras.
of white spots, somewhat similar
to the "flashed"' stripe in a pattern
produced in silk in Benares and
Hyderabad.
X.
395
Coarse. A dark purple ground. Pattern,
9 0
1 0
2 10
0 4 11
Ponnary, Madras.
horizontal zigzag stripe in white.
Similar to patterns in silks from
Benares and Hyderabad.
X.
396
Black ground, with the small horizontal
7 9
0 32
1 10
023
Arcot, Madras.
zigzag stripes which form a feature in
some of the Mushroos from Hydera-
bad, &c.
X.
397
Called Gud-ka-cheet. A blue ground with
4 18
0 31
—
020
Agra.
flower or pine, in black, brown and
white, printed in diagonal rows. Used
for petticoats by Malays of the poorer
classes.
vm.
320
Coarse cotton, dyed with indigo.
8 6
0 34
3 li
036
Beejapore.
94
PIECE GOODS.
TARLE 3. COTTON. — PRINTED ; PALEMPORES, OR BED-COVERS.
No. of
Description.
Measurement.
Weight
of Piece.
Cost.
Place of
Manufacture,
or where
obtained.
Vol.
Sample.
Length.
Width.
yds. ins.
yds. ins.
Ibs. oz.
£ s. rl.
IV.
151
Flowered pine pattern on green ground,
3 13
1 24
1 3.i
—
Futtygurh,
with 3^ inch border.
Bengal.
IV.
152
Flowered stripes, alternately pink, white,
3 12
1 21
1 O.|
—
Ditto.
and green, with flowered border.
IV.
153
White ground, centre small flowered
3 12
1 26
0 151
—
Ditto.
pattern, 3^ inch border.
IV.
154
Green ground, yellow circular spots, with
6 0
1 7
1 li
—
Ditto.
flowered centres.
IV.
155
Red ground, flowered circular pattern,
3 9
1 24
1 1
—
Ditto.
with special borders.
IV.
156
White ground, with large flowered pat-
4 21
1 18
1 4
040
Shikarpore,
tern in centre, special borders and
Sinde.
ends. Poor example.
rv.
157
Large-flowered pattern. Better print
5 0
1 18
1 15
060
Ditto.
than No. 156, but not nearly so good
as the Futtygurh specimens. Special
pattern in end.
IV.
160
Yellow ground, small flowers in crimson
3 8
1 22
1 8
026
Hazara, Punjab.
and dark green, arranged in oblique
stripes.
Of four.
XII.
475
Glazed chintz ; centre pattern a large
1 12
1 12
1 7
036
Masulipatam,
flowered design in colours on a white
Madras.
ground, with a deep 11 -inch border of
elaborately designed stripes of pines,
flowers, and foliage in white and red
coloured ground. Four woven in one
piece.
XII.
476
Unglazed chintz, large flowered pattern,
2 9
1 23
0 13
0 1 5
Paumodee,
centre in red, green, &c., with 4£ inch
Madras.
border. A deep (20 inch) end, with
special stripes of similar design, en-
closing a row of flowered pines in
colours. Printed on uncoloured cotton.
Two pieces sewn together, form com-
plete " Palampore," or bed cover.
XII.
477
Unglazed chintz, pattern a largo figure
2 0
1 0
0 8
0 1 3
Masulipatam,
4 inches in diameter, printed in black
Madras.
within a square formed by brown
foliage pattern. At the end, a row
of 6-inch figures of armed Sepoys,
printed in black, and enclosed by two
scrolls of foliage and flowers of good
design, and printed in brown.
XII.
478
Unglazed chintz, large radiated circular
2 14
1 14
0 13
020
Masulipatam,
figure, 3 inches in diameter, in brown,
Madras.
within a square formed by another
figure printed in black ; lOf inch bor-
der, formed by foliage and flowers,
with figures of birds printed in black,
and enclosed by two scrolls of foliage
and flowers printed in brown.
COTTOX. — TOWELS, BEDCOVERS, &C.
95
COTTON.— MISCELLANEOUS.
A number of articles have been brought together under this heading, which it was
difficult otherwise to group. As they had special functions, it was thought that it might
serve a useful purpose to keep them together, using function rather than quality or pattern
as the basis of the grouping.
They are all cotton fabrics, but some are white and others coloured.
Not a few of them, such as the Table Napkins, Doyley's, and Pocket-handkerchiefs, are
manufactured to suit European wants, and these illustrate the imitative power of the native
manufacturer. One of the bed-covers — ruzzai — (433) is a specimen of Indian quilting. A
considerable quantity of raw cotton is used for this purpose, as quilting is often resorted to in
the northern districts in order to produce garments which will give a proper protection against
the cold.
Tapes form a considerable article of native manufacture, being extensively used in the
making of bedsteads. The purpose to which they are applied shows that they must be
strong. A width of two to three inches is common.
No. of
Description.
Measurement.
Weight
of piece.
Cost
Place of
Manufacture,
or where
obtained.
Vol.
Sample.
Length.
Width.
yds. ins.
yds. ins.
Ibs. oz.
£ s. (I.
XII.
457
1 f-Cotton (muslin), deep border,
0 20
0 20
—
046
Nellore, Madras.
H 1 1 (3| inches), plain stripes, woven
per dozen.
in material.
XII.
458
1 ? X
PH Q j Cotton (muslin), deep borders
0 20
0 20
080
Ditto.
(31 inches), plain stripes, woven
per dozen.
M L in material.
XL
419
^Damask pattern, unbleached
0 21
0 21
—
070
Madras.
per dozen.
XL
420
Ditto, ditto -
0 19
0 19
—
080
Cuddalore,
i
per dozen.
Madras.
XI.
421
y
E
Diaper, small pattern, ditto
0 22
0 22
—
086
Ditto.
£<
per dozen.
XL
424
s
CS
Damask pattern, ditto -
0 30
0 29
0 13 0
Masulipatam,
H
per dozen.
Madras.
XL
428
Ditto, ditto -
0 23
0 23
—
030
Broach, Bombay.
per dozen.
XI.
426
Plain diaper, bleached
0 17
0 17
—
023
Masulipatam,
-
per dozen.
Madras.
XL
422
^Huckaback, unbleached
0 35
0 35
—
0 13 0
Cuddaloro,
.
per dozen.
Madras.
XI.
429
Ditto, ditto
0 33
0 33
—
023
Broach, Bombay.
per dozen.
XI.
425
Diaper pattern, ditto
0 36
0 31
—
080
Chingleput,
per dozen.
Madras.
XL
427
|
Khadee cloth, ditto -
0 32
0 31
—
040
Salem, Madras.
0
per dozen.
XL
423
H
Stout plain material, bleached Kha-
0 33
0 22
—
040
Cuddalore,
dee cloth.
per dozen.
Madras.
XL
430
Bleached small diaper pattern. A
0 27
0 25
—
030
From Goa, sent
3-inch border, with a flower and
per dozen.
from Madras.
foliage scroll pattern, printed in
red on plain woven fabric. Made
, to order.
96
PIECE GOODS.
TABLE. COTTON. — MISCELLANEOUS, &c. — cont.
No. of
Description.
Measurement.
Weight
of Piece.
Cost.
Place of
Manufacture,
or where
obtained.
Vol.
Sample.
Length.
Width.
yds. ins.
yds. ins.
Ibs. oz.
& s. d.
XI.
431
8 CA green stripe, checked by a faint
H J blue stripe on a crimson ground.
0 13
0 13
•"•*
090
per dozen.
Madras.
o S
XI.
432
l_ Crimson and blue check
0 13
0 13
—
083
Cuddalore,
per dozen.
Madras.
rv.
158
"Bleached diaper pattern, diaper pat-
4 32
1 18
1 15
0 15 0
Hoshyarpore,
tern woven in pink thread, and
Punjab.
cross stripes at ends.
IV.
159
Bleached. Border, blue stripe, 7 inch
4 7
1 13
2 8
Loodiana, Punjab.
blue stripe across each end.
XI.
433
Cotton, quilted with the needle
2 6
1 10
2 4
.._.
Hyderabad,
3
Deccan.
1
xn.
479
o
Soojney, Counterpane. A large
2 9
1 4
2 0
046
Kurnool, Madras.
1
diaper kind of pattern, pro-
B
duced by weaving the design in
o *
bleached thread in an unbleached
*m
ground. End marked by a modi-
1
fication of the diaper pattern,
9
If inch of extremity quite plain,
with a small fringe.
w
XII.
480
Soojney. A large diaper pattern
2 9
1 4
2 0
046
Kurnool, Madras.
similar to last, but in bleached
cotton on a dark red ground.
End marked by a modification of
this design, and a small portion of
end of plain uncoloured material.
Slight fringe at extremity.
Called also Pulungposh.
SILK. 97
SILK.
We have now to illustrate the silk, or silk and cotton piece goods which form an
extensive article of manufacture in many parts of India, chiefly for home consumption,
but partly also for export, as will be seen by reference to the following Table A., which
shows the quantities and value of the silk goods exported from India and from each
Presidency to all parts of the world from 1850-51 to 1864-65.
In the Tables which follow the examples in the Books, these manufactures have been
grouped under four heads : —
(1.) In the first one are included the plain, striped, and checked fabrics, which consist of
silk and cotton, and are employed for Trowserings, and occasionally also for Skirts and
Choices.
(2.) In the second group we have an important class of fabrics, also consisting of silk
and cotton, and commonly known under the name of Mushroo, which is a satin with a
cotton back. It is a favourite material, and is used in a variety of ways by the well-to-do
classes for dress purposes, covering cushions, &c. Some idea of the variety and beauty
of the patterns produced in this material will be gathered from an inspection of the
specimens in the Books.*
(3.) In the third Table are included the specimens in which silk alone is the textile
material employed. These, like the others, are used for making up trowsers and other
articles of attire, and also for linings. It will be observed that in the description of the
different patterns, some are noted as being favourites with the Hindu, and others with the
Mahomed an portion of the community.!
(4.) In the fourth Table we have a few examples of printing on silk as used for the
production of a class of goods in vogue amongst the Parsees and employed by them for
Sarees, Trowserings, &c. No. 549, Vol. XIV., showing a dark spot in the centre of a
white line, illustrates the material and pattern used for making the peculiar mitre-shaped
Turban worn by the Parsees. The spots, however, on the fabrics most commonly
employed are smaller than those in the specimen referred to. The white margin round
the dark central spot is produced by hitching up, and tying a thread around small
portions of the cloth, which on transference to the dye-trough is not affected by the
* All Mushroo's wash well, especially the finer kinds. As this manufacture is principally used for Choices,
petticoats, and for trousers of both sexes, washing becomes indispensable, and the dyes used are in all cases fast, not
fading with time, or becoming streaky or cloudy after being wetted. In any imitation of these fabrics, the best
dyes would be necessary, and such careful weaving as would enable the gloss to be preserved in the washing as
in the Mushroo fabrics, otherwise they would be of no value. English or French satins are more beautiful both
in colour and texture ; but it is needless to say they will not wash, and therefore would not supply the place
of " Mushroos."
f Stated on the authority of the Lahore Central Committee, which forwarded to the International Exhibition
of 1862 a valuable collection of the patterns prevailing in the Punjab.
98 PIECE GOODS.
colour employed. In many specimens the ties are very fine and close to each other, and,
consequently, involve the expenditure of much time and trouble in their production.
The rapidity with which the successive little portions of silk are hitched up and
ligatured by an experienced hand is, however, very remarkable.
This pattern is extremely difficult to imitate exactly, and, as it is one of those results
in which a certain charm arises from the absence of the perfect regularity usually effected
by machine operations, it is probable that it will still continue to be produced in the
laborious and comparatively expensive manner just described.*
The only other example of a silk material to which we would refer is that presented by
No. 555, Vol. XIV., a red silk gauze, from Bhagulpore, stated to be used for mosquito
curtains.
The original length of the piece was 11 yards, the width 31 inches, the weight
5| ounces, and the price II. 12s. Od., a sum, probably, very considerably beyond its real
value. Although the only example of a mosquito curtain material here given is of silk,
it has to be mentioned that this is a very rare application, light cotton gauze or net being
the article usually employed. The greater portion of the nets exported from this country are
employed in the manufacture of mosquito curtains, which are extensively used in India
both by Europeans and well-to-do natives.
The foregoing concludes the only remarks which we have considered it necessary to
make regarding the fabrics manufactured from true silk, the produce of the Bombyx
mori.
* That it is possible, however, to produce by machinery at least some classes of this kind of goods, was
shown by the "Batiks" manufactured in Holland and shown by Previnaire et Cie., of Haarlem, in the
Exhibition of 1862.
SILK. — EXPORTS.
99
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SILK AX1) COTTON.
101
1. Sir.K AND COTTON. — PLAIN, STRIPED, AND CHECKED.
No of
Description.
Measurement.
Weight
of Piece.
Cost
Place of
manufacture,
or where
obtained.
Vol.
Sample.
Length.
Width.
\'Is. ins.
yds. ins.
Ibs. oz.
£ s. d.
XII.
447
Shot, pink silk warp and blue cotton weft.
"11 15
0 23
0 14i
0 10 0
Tanjore, Madras.
For ]•
IV.
134
"White, with nniTow lines of pale
9 18
0 21
1 2
0 10 0
Lahore.
given silk, 10 to the inch, j inch
border, a plain red silk stripe.
For trowserings.
IV.
141
Green cotton, with small 1 ,Vineh
5 22
0 21
0 12
040
Rutul Mudpore,
yellow stripe dotted with white
Punjab.
thread and crimson silk, ,1- inch
apart. Border (;'; inch) of deep
crimson silk. For trow.-'erii
IX.
355
Green cotton, with ^-inch stripes of
11 27
0 22
1 10
086
Tanjore, Madras.
crimson and white si', in the warp
\ inch apart.
XII.
444
Crimson cotton, with green cotton
0 24
0 19
0 11
0 1 9
Trichinopoly,
and figured yellow silk stripe-. \
per cholee
Madras.
w
piece comprises six of this mea-
piece.
surement, woven with a " fag "
between. For choices.
XII.
446
5
Gauze, blue cotton weft, and red silk
7 0
0 23
0 13
0 14 0
Trichinopoly
B
warp, with flashed cross stripes of
Madras.
o
white, 2 inches apart. Forpetticoats.
xn.
448
H'
Dark blue cotton weft, and a silk
7 0
0 33
0 14
080
Trichinopoly, '
§
warp. Pattern, black ground with
Madras.
2
flashed spots, yellow and white, and
a
1 !; inch figured stripes of crimson,
i
yellow, and white silks, £ inch
H
apart. Used for trowserings by
02
Mahomedans of both sexes. Sooseo,
for trowserings.
XII.
449
Dark blue cotton weft, and crimson
8 0
1 0
0 15
080
Syempettah,
silk warp. Pattern, flashed spotted
Madras.
stripes in white across piece 1 inch
apart. Soosee, for trowserings and
dress skirts.
XII.
451
Dark blue cotton weft, and crimson
7 0
0 33
0 12
080
Trichinopoly,
silk warp. Pattern, a fine line
Madras.
warp stripe in white silk. Soosee,
for trowserings and petticoats.
xn.
452
Dark blue cotton weft, narrow stripes
11 0
0 27
1 9
080
Trichinopoly,
in warp, of red and yellow silk.
Madras.
Soosee, for trowserings.
,rx.
352
'"Crimson silk and black and white
11 27
0 22
1 0
070
Tanjore, Madras.
cotton check.
IX.
353
White cotton, with green and crim-
11 27
0 22
1 0
076
Ditto.
Q
son silk check.
IX.
356
|
Rose colour silk, with small dark blue
12 0
0 22
1 0
096
Ditto.
W <
cotton check.
IX.
358
I
Light texture, dark blue cotton, with
11 27
0 22
1 0
090
Ditto.
check of crimson silk.
XIV.
542
Yellow silk in warp, all cotton weft.
10 18
0 28
1 61
__
Agra, N.W.P.
Pattern, a small faint red check.
102
PIECK GOODS.
2. SILK AND COTTON. — MUSHROO OR SATIN ; PLAIN, STRIPED, AND FIGURED.
1
No. of
Description.
Measurement.
Weight
of Piece.
Cost.
Place of
manufacture,
or where
obtained.
Vol. Sample.
Length.
Width.
yds. ins.
yds. ins.
Ibs. oz.
£ s. d.
XIII.
500
Plain rose pink colour -
5 31
0 31
1 2
1 18 0 Hyderabad,
Deccan.
XIII.
507
Plain dark green
5 37
0 301
1 21
1 16 0
Hyderabad,
Deccan.
XIII.
510
Plain crimson -
6 0
0 32
1 4
1 16 0
Hyderabad,
Deccan.
xi n.
514
Ditto, lighter shade than last example -
4 22
0 31
0 101
1 18 0
Hyderabad,
t
Deccan,
bought in
Madras.
XIII.
515
Plain white
4 16
0 321
0 15
1 9 0
Hyderabad,
Deccau.
XIII.
486
Crimson, with a loom embroidered
5 19
0 32
1 101
200
Hyderabad,
flower (2 inches in length) in green
Deccan,
and yellow silks.
bought in
Madras.
XIII.
487
Deep purple, flowered with crimson,
5 0
0 301
1 7
200
Hyderabad,
white, green, and yellow.
Deccan,
bought in
Madras.
XIII.
492
Deep crimson, with figured white silk
4 24
0 29
0 11
Oil 6 Tanjore, Madras.
stripes.
XIII.
493
Yellow, and deep crimson stripes, with
6 15
1 0
1 10i 0 16 0
Tanjore, Madras.
spots of white.
XIII.
494
A bronze coloured ground, with figured
6 30
1 0
1 2
1 16 0
Hyderabad,
green stripes.
Deccan,
bought in
Madras.
XIII.
495
Deep purple ground, striped with a narrow
6 9
0 33
1 7
0 16 0
Tanjore, Madras.
line of yellow, dotted with crimson.
Across the piece are zigzag stripes of
white silk, tinged with crimson.
XIII.
496
Stripes of plain crimson, yellow, and
5 0
1 0
1 10
0 17 0
Trichinopoly,
green (the last named with a central
Madras.
line of red), divided by figured and
flowered stripes in crimson, yellow,
and white silks.
.
xnr.
497
Dark green ground, with cross stripes of
6 0
0 31
1 41
1 7 0
Hyderabad,
flashed spots in white.
XIII.
498
Figured stripes, separated alternately by
5 0
1 0
1 5
0 17 0
Trichinopoly,
plain green, blue, and yellow stripes,
Madras.
•with central line of crimson and red,
and a plain crimson stripe, with
yellow central line.
SILK AND COTTON.
TABLE 2. — continued.
103
No. of
Description.
Measurement.
Weight
of piece.
Cost.
Place of
Manufacture,
or where
obtained.
Vol.
Sample.
Length.
Width.
yds. ins.
yds. ins.
Ibs. oz.
': ,-•. d.
XIII.
499
Yellow, with figured stripes. Same
5 32
0 301
1 4
1 18 0
Hyderabad,
pattern as No. 494.
Deccan.
XIII.
501
Crimson, with small zigzag cross stripes
6 0
0 32
1 31
1 16 0
Hyderabad,
in white silk.
Deccan,
bought in
Madras.
XIII.
502
A deep purple, with a shaded stripe in
3 20
0 34
0 13
0110
Trichinopoly,
the warp.
Madras.
XIII.
503
Crimson, with small zigzag cross stripes
6 9
0 33
1 9
0 17 0
Trichinopoly,
in white silk.
Madras.
XIII.
504
Crimson, with cross stripes of flashed
5 31
0 26
1 2
1 18 0
Hyderabad,
spots in yellow silk.
Deecan.
XIII.
505
Figured stripes in orange, yellow, and
6 41
0 341
1 Hi
1 0 0
Tanjore, Madras.
crimson ; the intervening spaces alter-
nately green, purple, and crimson,
through which (but intersected by the
figured stripe) run zigzag cross stripes
of yellow on the green, and white on
the purple and crimson ground colour.
XIII.
506
Purple, with a zigzag cross stripe of
4 27
0 35
1 6
0 17 0
Trichinopoly,
white like 501 and 503, but tinged
Madras.
with crimson.
XIII.
508
Dark crimson, with narrow white lines
5 0
1 0
1 5
0 17 0
Trichinopoly,
in warp, 1 inch apart.
Madras.
XIII.
509
Orange, with narrow stripes of white,
6 15
1 0
2 7
0 18 0
Tanjore, Madras.
with dark crimson edges.
XIII.
511
Bright yellow, with narrow figured
stripes in crimson, yellow, white, and
5 27
0 27
1 6
1 16 0
Hyderabad.
purple silks ; the intervening spaces
dotted with rows of flashed spots, alter-
nately crimson and green, arranged
to run in diagonal order throughout
piece.
XIII.
512
Rose pink, with figured stripes, of pat-
5 33
0 30
1 1
1 15 0
Hyderabad,
tern similar to 494 and 499.
Deccan,
bought in
Madras.
XIII.
513
Plain amber colour, with stripes figured
with flashed spots of an arrow-head
6 14
1 0
1 6
0 14 0
Trichinopoly,
Madras.
shape, in green, crimson, and yellow
silk.
104
PIECE GOODS.
3. SILK. — PLAIN, STRIPED, CHECKED, AND FIGURED.
No. of
Description.
Measurement.
Weight
of piece.
Cost.
Place of
Manufacture,
or where
obtained.
Vol.
Sample.
Length.
Width.
yds. ins.
yds. ins.
Ibs. 07.
£ s. d.
xrv.
521
"Red. Stout fabric. Extensively
17 15
0 2H
2 9|
300
Lahore.
used in the Punjab for making up,
mid also for lining garments. Fa-
vourite old Mahomedan colour.
XIV.
522
Shot. Blue warp, crimson weft. Fa-
13 9
0 211
1 81
1 16 0
Lahore.
vourite Hindu colour.
xrv.
523
f:
Light green. Favourite Mahomedan
15 31
0 201
2 1
300
Lahore.
3r
colour.
xrv.
524
fi
Shot. Crimson warp, blue weft.
24 0
0 201
2 8£
390
Lahore.
Favourite Hindu colour.
XIV.
532
Rose-coloured. " Golabee Dur-
6 11
0 13
0 4
0 10 6
Agra, N.W.P.
reeaee."
XIV.
540
Pink. "Yeolah." Thin texture -
11 0
1 5
1 3
573
Ahmednugger,
Bombay.
xrv.
541
^Bright yellow
39 18
0 111
1 01
1 9 81
Agra.
IV.
131
Yellow, with f -inch stripes of deep
6 17
0 28
0 12
0 18 101
Deyra Ishmael
crimson. In 2-inch space between
Khan.
each, eight narrow black and white
stripes. Used for trowserings.
rx.
354
Deep crimson, striped with dark blue
9 0
0 30
0 10
0 18 0
Tanjore, Madras.
fine lines, 15 to the inch. Used
for trowserings.
XIII.
516
Red ground, with figured zigzag
9 4
0 37
0 14
1 10 0
Trichinopoly,
stripes. For trowserings.
Madras.
xni.
517
Red ground, with flowered stripes in
8 27
0 35
1 2
220
Trichinopoly,
white and yellow. In centre of
Madras.
intervening spaces a double line of
yellow with a centre tinged by an
underthread of blue. For trow-
serings.
XIII.
518
Green, with flashed spots faintly
11 0
0 33
0 141
200
Trichinopoly,
marked in yellow running in rows
Madras.
across piece. Used for trow-
serings, &c.
xni.
519
Stripes of orange, yellow, red, and
9 0
0 34
0 12
0 17 0
Trichinopoly,
green crosswise through the piece,
Madras.
and, intersected by the orange and
yellow stripe, a series of flashed
spots in white and yellow. For
trowserings.
XIII.
520
Q
P
P» >
Amber-coloured, with faint longitu-
9 6
0 34
0 111
0 19 0
Tanjore, Madras.
*•* s
dinal lines of white, £ inch apart.
GO
For trowserings.
XIV.
525
Deep crimson, with narrow warp
17 33
0 211
2 7
300
Lahore.
lines of green, f inch apart. Old
Mahomedan pattern.
XIV.
526
Yellow, with narrow warp lines of
15 0
0 22
2 3
460
Lahore.
red, § inch apart. Old Hindu
pattern.
xrv.
527
Deep crimson, with narrow warp
18 0
0 211
2 8
360
Lahore.
lines of white, f inch apart. Fa-
vourite Hindu pattern.
xrv.
528
Green, with narrow warp lines of
16 15
0 21
2 21
300
Lahore.
red, f inch apart. Old Hindu
pattern.
SILK.
TABLE 3. — continued.
105
No. of
Description.
Measurement
Weight
of piece.
Cost.
Place of
Manufacture,
or where
obtained.
Vol.
Sample.
Length.
Width.
yds. ins.
yds. ins.
Ihs. oz.
£ s. d.
XIV.
529
Plum-coloured, with narrow warp
"l,j 2<>
0 21£
2 5
2 16 0
Lahore.
lines of yellow, f inch apart. Old
Hindu pattern.
XIV.
530
Shot. Pink weft. Light blue warp,
16 18
0 21
1 13£
260
Lahore.
with narrow lines of red, f inch
apart. Old Mahomedan pattern.
xrv.
531
Shot. Crimson weft. Blue warp,
8 0
0 19
0 lOf
126 Deyra Ishmael
with narrow lines of yellow, -,'V of
Khan.
an inch apart. Old Hindu pattern.
XIV.
537
White ground, with ^-inch stripes of
5 18
0 31£
0 111
—
Bhawulpore,
yellow and red, alternately with a
Punjab.
•^-inch stripe of purple, •}•$ inch
apart.
XIV.
538
Elaiche. A rose-crimson ground
19 11
0 19
1 5
1 14 0
Agra.
with narrow warp lines of white,
£ inch apart. Old Hindu pattern.
XIV.
539
Durreeaee. Yellow ground, with
14 14
0 11
0 6£
0 10 6
Agra.
cross stripe of red and green alter-
nately with a double line stripe of
a reddish-brown colour.
XIV.
546
Green, pink, yellow, and crimson
8 26
027*
1 U
—
Pegu.
stripes. A peculiar pattern, with a
flashed angulated figure through-
out.
rx.
351
fTartan pattern
9 0
0 22
0 15
1 2 0
Tanjore, Madras.
XIV.
533
Sungee Charhhanah. Check pattern.
4 33
0 27
0 7|
1 10 0
Benares.
The various coloured stripes crossed
by small angulated lines also of
different tints.
Q
XIV.
535
g<
White silk, with faint lavender-colour
15 0
1 0
1 101
—
Bhagulpore.
W
stripes in the warp checked by
5
1-inch stripes of a dark purple
colour in the weft.
XIV.
536
White silk, with open check formed
15 0
1 0
1 10
__
Berhampore.
by a broad and a narrow stripe of
purple.
XJLL1.
485
"Silk brocade. Green ground, with
5 14
0 31
1 8
Hyderabad, Dec-
closely studded pattern of a small
can. Bought in
star-shaped flower in white silk,
Madras.
|
with central spot in crimson silk.
xrv.
534
0
Pink ground, with stripes (^ inch
5 32
0 28£
0 151
__
Bhawulpore,
N
wide and § inch apart), figured
Punjab.
with a circular flower pattern in
crimson silk, and margins formed
by a yellow and black dotted line.
106
PIECE GOODS.
4. SILK. — PRINTED.
No. of
Description.
Measurement.
Weight
of Piece.
Cost.
Place of
Manufacture,
or where
obtained.
Vol.
Sample.
Length.
Width.
yds. ins.
yds. ins.
Ibs. oz.
£ K. d.
XIV.
548
Lake mcenia. Blue. Pattern, a cir-
1 11
1 21
0 5|
060
Surat, Bombay,
cular flower in light green, arranged
diagonally, and interspersed with small
round spot of same colour. Border,
12 inches wide, scroll, with "Kutar"
inner edge ; all in circular red spots.
XIV.
549
" Black Laho," black ground. Pattern,
1 10
0 29
0 If
060
Surat, Bombay.
square dark red spots, with inner circle
of white and central dot of black, ar-
ranged in irregular diagonal order.
Border, 2£ inches wide, of crimson
silk, pattern marked in white spots,
with dotted centre. Whole surface
glazed subsequent to printing.
XIV.
550
Crimson silk. Pattern (arranged in dia-
0 3H
0 30
02030
Surat, Bombay.
gonal rows) a white spot, with crimson
central dot ; larger design than the
foregoing. Border, 3£ inches wide,
black, with figured pattern formed by
white spots with dotted centre, inter-
spersed with red spots, with inner circle
of white and central speck of black.
XIV.
551
Deep purple ground. Pattern, a check
0 32
0 31
0 2
053
Surat, Bombay.
formed by cross diagonal rows (J inch
apart) of dark red circular spots, in
each square of the check four similar
spots. Border, 2 inches wide, a dotted
scroll pattern, with " Kutar " inner
edge.
WILD SILKS.
In the Table which follows are included the examples given in the Books of Textiles
made from what, in contradistinction to the foregoing, or cultivated variety, may be called
Wild Silks. Of these the Tussur, Eria, and Moonga are the most common, and fabrics made
of some of them — and particularly of the Moonga — have probably been known in the East
from time immemorial.
Although Tussur is the variety of wild silk best known in this country, the Moonga,
from its superiority in point of gloss and other qualities, is that most commonly employed,
especially for the manufacture of mixed fabrics, and for some kinds of embroidery.
No. 2Q4, Vol. VIIL, is an example of a fabric consisting of cotton striped with Moonga
silk.
Mixed fabrics of this description are stated by Taylor to form the fourth class of the
Textile manufactures of Dacca, the cotton yarn used in their manufacture ranging from
30s to 80s.
The Silk — Muga or Moonga — is imported into Dacca from Sylhet and Assam. It is
prepared for the loom by being first steeped in water mixed with powdered turmeric, and
afterwards in lime juice. It is next rinsed, dried, and sized with paste made of parched
rice and water, without an admixture of lime, and then reeled and warped in the same
manner as cotton thread. The cloths of this class are of considerable variety both as
WILD SILKS.
107
regards texture and pattern. Some consist chiefly of cotton, with only a silk border or a
silk flower or figure, in each corner ; others are striped, chequered, or figured with silk
throughout the body of the cloth. The different varieties may amount to thirty in number,
but the principal ones are the Kutuwroomec, Noiclittee, Azeezoola, and Lmhuck.
These cloths are made exclusively for the markets of Arabia. Some, indeed, are
occasionally shipped to Rangoon, Penang, and places to the eastward, but the far greater
portion of them is exported to Jidda, whence they are sent into the interior of the
country. A considerable quantity of them is sold at the annual fair held at Meena, in the
vicinity of Mecca. They arc made into turbans, gowns, vests, &c. by the Arabs. They
were formerly transported from Jidda to Egypt, and were at one time the principal articles
of export from Dacca to Bassora, whence they were sent to various parts of Mesopotamia
and to Constantinople.
Of the Eria, two examples of fabrics from which (Nos. 559 and 560, Vol. XIV.) are
given, little need here be said. Although possessed of great durability, the Eria, like the
Tussur, is defective in the gloss which gives such beauty to true silk.
No. of
Measurement.
Place of
Description.
Weight
of Piece.
Cost.
Manufacture,
or where
Vol.
Sample.
Length.
Width.
obtained.
yds. ins.
yds. ins.
Ibs. oz.
£ s. d.
XIV.
556
Tussur silk, plain
10 18
1 1
1 15J
0 15 101
Warungul,
Deccan.
XIV.
557
Tussur silk, dyed. Grey warp and blue
11 0
0 26
1 H
0 13 0
Bhagulpore,
weft. A twilled mute-rial.
XIV.
558
Tussur silk, a large coloured check or
9 18
0 251
1 4
0 13 0
Bhagulpore.
plaid on a blue ground, woven in
coloured Tussur thread.
XIV.
559
Eria silk, " Dooklee," a coarse material
4 0
0 34
1 f>
040
Cachar.
in uncoloiircd thread.
XIV.
560
Eria silk " Endi," a coarse material of
3 2
1 4
1 4
Darjeeling.
dyed Eria silk, dyed chocolate red.
VIII.
294
Cotton, with $ inch stripes of Moonga
4 16
I 0
0 8
Dacca.
silk in the warp, £ inch apart.
-
The following description, by Buchanan, of the preparation of Tussur (or, as he renders it,
Tasar) thread and its manufacture in Bhagulpore, although given with a certain reservation
as to the accuracy of some of the details, will be read with interest,
It has to be premised, however, that the description here given refers to a period long
anterior to the present.
" Of the weavers who work in Tasar silk, a few weave cloth entirely of that material, but the quantity is so
trifling that I shall take no further notice of it, and confine myself to detail the accounts of the mixed cloth
<r.'.led Bhagulpuri, because almost the whole of it is woven in the vicinity of that town ; for out of 3,275 looms,
stated to be in the district, 3,000 of these were said to be in the Kotwali division. The women of the weavers
mostly wind the thread, although the men sometimes assist. These people are so timid, that no great reliance
can be placed on what they say ; but I shall mention what was stated by two men that came to me at
Mungger from Bhagulpoor.
"A woman takes five pans of cocoons (405), and puts them in a large earthen pot with 600 sicca weight of
water, a small mat being placed in the bottom to prevent the cocoons from being burned. A small quantity
of potash, tied in a bit of cloth, is put into the pot, along with the cocoons, which are boiled about an
European hour. They are then cooled, the water is changed, and they are again boiled. The water is
poured off, and the cocoons are put into another pot, where they stand three days in the sun covered with a
cloth to exclude insects. On the fourth day they are again boiled, with 200 sicca weight of water, for rather
less than an hour, and then poured into a basket, where they are allowed to cool, after which they are washed
(34-28.)
108 PIECE GOODS.
in cold water, and placed to dry on a layer of cow-dung ashes, where they remain spread, and covered with a
cloth, for six hours. The woman then picks out such cocoons as are not quite ready for winding, and
exposes them for a day or two to the sun, which completes the operation. The outer filaments of the
cocoon are then picked off, and form a substance called Jhuri, of which the potters make brushes used for
applying a pigment to their vessels. The fibres from 4 to 5 cocoons are then wound off on a miserable conical
reel which is twirled round by one hand, while the thread is twisted on the thigh, the cocoons adjusted, and
the broken fibres joined by the other. The cocoons while winding are not placed in water. This thread is
called Lak, and after the Lak has been removed, there remains another inferior kind of filament, called also
Jhuri, which is wound off, and is purchased by those who knit strings. Even the cocoons, that have been
burst by the moth, are wound off ; but owing to the frequent joinings give a weaker silk. When the Tasar
is neither very high nor very low, that is, when 405 cocoons cost a rupee at Bhagulpoor, a woman boils ami
winds this number in 10 days.
" The kinds of cloths, most usually made, are as follows : —
" 1st. Duriyas, the warp consists of three parts of cotton, and two parts of Tasar of different colours. The
woof is all cotton of one colour, so that the cloth is striped lengthways, and is dyed entirely by the weavers
in the thread. The pieces are most usually from 20 to 22 cubits long by 1^ broad, and on an average sell
at 42 annas. The cotton thread costs 22 annas, the Tasar 101 annas. A man can weave monthly 7£ pieces.
"2nd. Namunahs are pieces from 20 to 22 cubits long and If broad ; the most common price is 44 annas.
The warp contains about 35 parts of cotton thread, and 21 of Tasar, disposed in stripes of a different pattern
from those of the Duriya. The woof is all cotton. The cotton costs 21 annas, the Tasar 14 annas. The
dying done by the weaver, the drugs costing 1 anna. The loom makes seven pieces a month.
"3rd. Chaharkhanahs. The pieces are about 18 cubits long and f of a cubit wide. The average value is
2^ rs. Each loom weaves 6J pieces in the month. The warp requires 10 parts of cotton, and 15 parts of
Tasar ; the woof 10 parts of cotton and 18 parts of Tasar, so that the pieces arc checkered. The cotton thread
is worth 6 annas, the Tasar lr. 6as. The dyeing costs 4 annas.
"4th. Baftahs are pieces of an uniform colour, dyed after being woven. The pieces are of the same size with
the Namunahs. All the warp is Tasar, the woof is cotton. The former costs 18 annas, the latter 20 annas ;
the dyeing and washing cost from 3 to 6 rs. for 20 pieces, or on an average 3 annas. The common price of
the pieces is about 3rs. (from 2£ to 5rs.) In the month a loom weaves 6| pieces. The foregoing kinds are
mostly made for exportation ; the following is mostly made for country use: —
" 5th. Khariasri are pieces 12 cubits long and 2 cubits broad. They differ in size and fineness from the
Duriyas. The Tasar costs 6 annas, the cotton 7£ annas ,- the pieces on an average worth l-J-grs. and a man
weaves eight pieces a month. The weaver dyes this kind.*
* Buchanan in " Martin's Eastern India," Vol. II. pp. 271-4.
LOOM EMBROIDERIES. 109
LOOM-EMBROIDERY.— GOLD AND SILVER.
In the subjoined Table are included the specimens in which gold and silver thread are
employed in the decoration of piece goods.
The first group shows certain specimens in which the ornamentation is confined to the
introduction of a gold border, which is used as a finish to the Choice sleeve, &c.
In the second division, the piece — also for making up into Cholees — is striped with gold
and silver throughout.
The third group shows examples of gold figured Mushroos.
In the fourth and last division, we come to the still more highly ornamental fabric to
which the term Kincob* is applied.
Of the variety and beauty of the patterns produced in India by these combinations in the
loom of silk, gold, and silver, only a faint idea can be obtained from the specimens given
in the books.
Those who may desire to acquire fuller information, may do so by consulting the Col-
lection at the India Museum.
The European manufacturer who may have attempted the introduction of metal into his
fabrics, will all the more readily comprehend and admire the results obtained by the
Indian weaver. The gold or silver thread used in the manufacture of the articles now
under notice, is made by twisting the flattened wire, called Badla, around silk thread. The
workmen who manufacture the gold and silver thread are called Batwaiya or Kaldbatu-~
Nakad being the name applied to those who wind and twist the silk to make it fit for
the operations of the former, whilst the weaver of the cloth itself is called Taslibaf.
The following description, by Captain Meadows Taylor, of the process by which gold and
silver thread, called Kullabutoon, is manufactured in India will be read with interest.
" For gold thread, a piece of silver about the length and thickness of a man's forefinger is
gilded at least three times heavily with the purest gold, all alloy being previously most care-
fully discharged from the silver. This piece of gilt silver is beaten out to the size of a stout
wire, and is then drawn through successive holes in a steel plate until the wire is literally ' as
fine as a hair.' The gilding is not disturbed by this process, and the wire finally appears as if of
fine gold. It is then flattened in an extremely delicate and skilful manner. The workman, seated
before a small and highly polished steel anvil, about two inches broad, with a steel plate in which
there are two or three holes, set opposite to him and perpendicular to the anvil, and draws through
these holes as many wires — two, or three as it may be — by a motion of the finger and thumb of
his left hand, striking them rapidly but firmly with a steel hammer, the face of which is also
polished like that of the anvil. This flattens the wire perfectly ; and such is the skill of
* The name of this material is rendered in a variety of ways — Kincob, Kuncob, Kincaub, Kumkhwab,
Kecmkab, and lastly, Kinkhap. The fourth — kumkhwab — is the most correct rendering of the original Persian word ;
although Kincob, as being best known, is that which we have chosen.
R 2
110 PIECE GOODS.
manipulation, that no portion of the wires escapes the blow of the hammer, the action of
drawing the wire, rapid as it is, being adjusted to the length which will be covered by the
face of the hammer in its descent. No system of rollers or other machinery, could probably
ensure the same effect, whether of extreme thinness of the flattened wire, or its softness and
ductility.
" The method of winding the wire upon silk thread is also peculiar, and is effected as
follows :
" The silk is very slightly twisted, and is rolled upon a winder. The end is then passed over
a polished steel hook, fixed to a beam in the ceiling of the workshop, and to it is suspended
a spindle with a long thin bamboo shank, slightly weighted to keep it steady, which nearly
touches the floor. The workman gives the shank of the spindle a sharp turn upon his thigh,
which sets it spinning with great rapidity. The gold wire, which has been wound on a reel as
it passes behind the maker, is then applied to the bottom of the silk thread near the spindle
and twists itself upwards, being guided by the workman as high as he can conveniently reach,
or nearly his own height, upon the thread : but it is impossible to describe in exact terms, the
curiously dexterous and rapid process of this manipulation. The spindle is then stopped ;
the thread now covered with wire is wound upon the spindle and fastened in a notch of the
shank, when the silk thread is drawn down and the spindle is again set spinning with the same
result as before. Certain lengths of the gold thread — ' kullabutoon ' — are made into skeins, and
so sold or used by weavers.
" On examination of ' kullabutoon,' the extreme thinnesss and flexibility of the flattened wire
and its delicacy and beauty will at once be apparent, in comparison with attempts at a similar
result, which are observable in Irish poplins or other brocades of Europe, which are made by
rolling machinery. It is remarkable also, that the Indian brocades, gold and silver alike, never
tarnish, but retain their lustre and colour even though washed. This is the result of the absolute
purity both of the silver and gold employed, a point which, in Europe, is probably very little
considered. There is no doubt that in India ' kullabutoon ' with considerable alloy in the wire,
is also made and used ; but never enters into the higher classes of manufactures."*
* A proof of the superiority of the Indian, over the European gold and silver wire as usually manufactured, was
afforded at the late Dublin Exhibition ; during the progress of which, the chief exhibitors of the Irish Poplins in
which gold and silver thread was used, had to change their specimens on account of their becoming tarnished :
whereas the metal embroidered fabrics from India, shown on the same occasion, retained their colour and lustre
throughout.
LOOM-EMBROIDERIES.
Ill
GOLD AND SILVER LOOM-EMBROIDERIES.
No. of
Description.
Measurement.
Weight
of piece.
Cost.
Place of
Manufacture,
or wheiv
obtained.
Vol.
Sample
Length.
Width.
yds. ins.
yds. ins.
Ibs. oz.
£ s. d.
VI.
201
"Blue silk, with J-inch stripes of
4 27
1 ]1
1 1
2 16 0
Sattara, Deccan.
darker blue, £ inch apart, this
stripe being flowered at ^-incli
distances with white silk spots.
Border, 2£ inches wide, of rich
tf
gold lace pattern in crimson silk,
O
with green silk lines. For choices.
VI.
202
I
Green silk, with ^-incli stripes of
4 0
0 351
0 11 2 16 0
Sattara, Deccau.
9
crimson, with black and white
-X
line. Border (21 inches wide)
0
of rich gold lace pattern in crim-
son silk, with green silk lines. For
O
choices.
VI.
203
KCKEI),
>.
Green silk. In the warp, narrow
i (|-inch) stripes of white with a
4 23
1 1
1 0
400
Sattara, Deccan.
O
crimson centre line, £ inch apart,
a
checked by a similar but faint
stripe in the weft. 3-inch border
3
of rich flowered gold lace pattern
I
in crimson silk, with green silk
H
marginal lines. For choices.
CO
VI.
204
1
Crimson silk. Narrow dotted white
and black stripes (£ inch apart) in
4 21
1 0
0 14i
400
Sattara, Deccan.
QQ
the warp, checked by similar lines
in the weft, but in white only
£ inch apart. 3-inch border of
gold flowered lace pattern in crim-
son silk, with green silk marginal
.
. lines. For choices.
xn.
441
a
rDeep crimson silk, with (^ inch
apart) small stripes of green silk
0 17
0 29
0 11
0 1 9
Tanjore, Madras.
d
into which two threads of gold are
co
introduced in the warp. Six of
9
these for six choices, woven with a
a
fag between, constitute one piece.
0
XII.
442
0
a
H
Pattern, small crimson silk stripes
($ inch apart), into which two
0 17
0 29
o H
0 1 9
Tanjore, Madras.
j-
silver threads are introduced. The
a
ground is of blue silk warp and
—
B
red silk weft, with a dotted angular
Tf\
figure in the blue silk of the warp.
(
A piece comprises six of this
measurement, woven with a con-
fj
necting fag.
xn.
443
Pattern, small crimson silk stripes,
^ inch apart, into which two
0 17
0 29
0 11
0 1 9
Taajore, Madras.
silver threads are introduced. The
ground of green silk warp and
crimson weft, woven with a small
green dotted figure. Six of these
form a piece.
112
LOOM-EMBROIDERIES.
No. of
Description.
Measurement
Weight
of piece.
Cost.
Place of
Manufacture,
or where
obtained.
Vol.
Sample.
Length.
Width.
yds. ins.
yds. ins.
Ibs. oz.
£ s. d.
XIII.
488
"Green ground, deep crimson stripe,
4 18
0 35
1 12
220
Trichinopoly,
2|- inches wide, with lace pattern
Madras.
edges in yellow silks, and scroll
and flower pattern centre in gold
thread. In the intervening spaces
a 1 :,'-inch flower in yellow silk and
q
gold thread alternating with a
1
«
small circular flower in gold
a
3
thread.
q
XIII.
489
a
Deep purple ground, and figured
4 27
0 24
0 14
240
Trichinopoly,
0
stripe (f inch wide) in yellow and
Madras.
9 -^ crimson silk. In the intervening
i
0
space a flower sprig in gold thread
p
i
alternating with two small circular
i
3
flowers, also in gold thread.
E|
XIII.
490
Green ground,with small ^-inch stripes
of gold thread and crimson silk.
6 0
0 28
1 5
Hyderabad,
Deccan.
XIII.
491
Deep purple ground, striped with
4 18
0 24
0 14
240
Tanjore, Madras.
lines of white silk. In the interven-
ing spaces a series of i-inch circular
spots in gold thread, arranged in
diagonal order across piece.
VII.
275
'Lavender-coloured silk gauze, with
4 20
0 34
2 4i
_
Benares, N.W.P.
f-inch flowered stripes (1£ inch
apart) in diagonal order. The
flower in the stripe repeated be-
tween the stripes in three rows,
closely woven in similar diagonal
order, viz., left to right. The
whole of the pattern in gold thread.
XIII.
481
A
O
Deep crimson silk (satin), with rows
5 0
0 26
0 11
2 16 0
Trichinopoly,
o
2
of flower sprigs in gold thread,
Madias.
2.
intersected by a double row of
Q
smaller circular flowers, also in
gold thread. Made up into all kinds
2
of garments for both sexes of the
fi
richer classes.
XIII.
482
s
o
Deep purple silk, with longitudinal
5 9
0 34
0 15
1 11 0
Tanjore, Madras.
O.
1
figured stripes in crimson silk and
i
gold thread. In the intervening
•
£
spaces a row of small pines in gold
thread alternating with a small
figured spot in silver.
XIII.
483
Deep crimson silk (satin). A richly
4 27
0 24
0 14
300
Trichinopoly,
figured pattern in gold thread, en-
Madras.
closing a flowered design, of which
the upper portion is in gold thread
and the lower part or base of the
figure is in bright green and
yellow floss silks.
XIII
484
Deep purple silk. A flowered pine-
5 0
0 27
0 11
2 10 0
Trichinopoly,
shaped figure in gold thread, in
Madras.
rows 4 inches apart, with two
rows of a circular (^-inch) flower,
and three rows of smaller spots,
all worked in gold thread in the
intervening spaces. Used for
dress skirts.
GOLD AND SILVER TISSUES.
J13
GOLD AND SILVER TISSUES.
In these Tissues the flattened wire — called Taash — instead of being twisted round
silk thread, is itself used — the warp or the weft, as the case may be, being of very fine
silk thread, so as to interfere as little as possible with the continuity of the surface
presented by the metal. It is thus that the cloths of gold and silver, of which we hear
in Eastern countries, are made. These are employed in India by the rich as sashes, for
mantles to throw round their children's shoulders, for marriage garments, &c. An examina-
tion of the examples given in the books and described in the Table below will afford a
good idea of this class of fabrics.
No. of
Description.
Measurement.
Weight
Of Pil'cr.
Cost.
Place of
Manufacture,
or whence
procured.
Vol.
Sample.
Length.
Width.
yds. ins.
yds. ins.
Ibs. oz.
£ s. d.
vn.
261
Q
Fine crimson silk weft, warp of flat-
2 31
0 24
0 5
about.
Hyderabad,
5
tened gold wire.
1 16 0
Deccan.
&
(No. 270 illustrates the use of this
K
kind of cloth as a basis for hand
g Q
% w
embroidery.)
vn.
263
cc a
.,- P1
Fine crimson silk weft, waip of gold,
2 33
0 261
0 5|
—
Hyderabad,
K o
5iC
and striped with crimson silk cord.
about.
Deccan.
vn.
265
^
P-i
Fine crimson silk weft, warp of gold
2 0
0 25
0 4
1 16 0
Hyderabad,
I
striped with green silk cord.
Deccan.
vn.
268
1
Wnrp of crimson silk, weft of gold
1 9
0 28
0 51
—
Moorshedabad,
O
a
k (figured).
Bengal.
VII.
262
§
Fine white silk weft, warp of flattened
2 32
0 231
0 5±
Hyderabad,
silver wire.
Dec can.
vn.
264
3
H 0
Fine white silk weft, warp of silver -
1 0
0 22i
0 If
Hyderabad,
CO 2
•
Deccan.
vn.
267
5 § .
Warp of white silk, weft of silver -
1 4
0 331
0 41
Moorshedabad,
££
Bengal.
vu.
266
1 §
Fine white silk weft, warp of silver,
2 33
0 24
0 51
—
Hyderabad,
g"
striped with crimson silk cord.
Deccan.
vn.
269
Warp of white silk, weft of silver,
1 8
0 31
o 51
—
Moorshedabad,
1
square figured pattern.
Bengal.
In addition to these tissues, gold and silver lace is made in some quantity at Benares,
Aurungabad, Boorhampore, Moorshedabad, Patna, Surat, and other places. It is of two
kinds. That called Kenari is from one to three inches in width, whilst the Gota is only
from \ to -| of an inch in breadth.
The gold and silver wire is usually of a superior quality. Occasionally, however, an
inferior article of gilt or silvered copper wire is employed. Of the importance of using
only the very best materials in the manufacture of articles likely to be subjected to the
operation of washing, we have already spoken.
In the India Museum Collection is a loom-embroidered fabric from Thibet, to which
some allusion may here be made. It has been received under the name of Tachu, and its
ornamentation has been effected by using a weft of gilt paper, which has been cut into
very narrow strips for the purpose.
114 PIECE GOODS.
HAND-EMBROIDERY.
We have now to speak of Hand or Needle Embroidery, a kind of work in which the
Native shows admirable skill, and one which, in all probability, is destined yet to occupy
a somewhat important place amongst the list of manufactured articles exported from India
to this and to other European countries.
A few examples of this sort of embroidery have been inserted in the books, and are
classed in the two following Tables, but, just as in the case of the fabrics last con-
sidered, these are not calculated to afford an adequate notion of the immense number of
ways in which not merely the professional embroiderer, but many of the native ladies of
Hindustan, produce patterns of exquisite taste and skill.
Every kind of fabric, from the coarsest muslin to the richest cashmere cloth, is thus
decorated ; and though Dacca and Delhi are the places best known for their embroideries,
there are numerous other places in India in which the workers are equally skilful.
Dacca, however, has for a very long time been celebrated for its Zar-do-zi or embroidery.
"From Dacca," says the Abbe de Guyon, writing in 1774, "come the best and finest
Indian embroideries in gold, silver, or silk, and those embroidered neckcloths and fine muslins
which are seen in France."
The art is considered to have been first introduced into Bengal from the banks of the
Euphrates. On this subject, Taylor remarks that, " In the ninth century the merchants
of Bussora carried on a direct trade with Eastern India and China. Many Mahomedans
settled at this time in the principal ports of these countries, and, doubtless, they intro-
duced from the West such arts, and, among others, that of embroidery, as were required
to prepare the goods suited to the markets of Arabia. This conjecture," he adds, " regard-
ing the origin of embroidery in Bengal, is, in addition to the fact of this art being only
practised by Mahomedans, further strengthened by the tradition at Dacca that the needles
formerly used there were procured from Bussora ; and likewise by the circumstance of
Bussora and Jidda having been, from time immemorial, the great marts for the embroidered
goods of Bengal."*
The following is the description given by Taylor of the embroidery frame, the manner
of working, &c. : —
" The cloth is stretched out in a horizontal bamboo frame of rude construction, raised
about a couple of feet from the ground, and the figures intended to be worked or
embroidered are drawn upon it by designers, who are generally Hindoo painters (nuqash)
On woollen cloths the outlines are traced with chalk, and on muslin with pencil, and the
body of the design copied from coloured drawings. The embroiderers, seated upon the
floor around the frame, ply the needle, which, it may be remarked, they do not draw
towards, but, on the contrary, push from them, as is the case with all native sewers in
India. In place of scissors they commonly use a piece of glass or Chinaware to cut the
threads. The zar-doz, or embroiderers, constitute a distinct society or Mahomedan guild
of artisans."
* Taylor's " Cotton Manufactures of Dacca," p. 102.
HAND-EMBROIDERIES.
115
The examples given in the Books, and grouped in the subjoined Tables 1 and 2,
embrace representatives from three of the four principal varieties into which Indian hand
embroideries may be divided.
1. HAND EMBROIDERY. — COTTON AND SILK.
No. of
Description.
Measurement.
Weight
of Piece.
Cost.
Place of
Manufacture,
or where
obtained.
Vol.
Sample.
Length.
Width.
yds. ins.
yds. ins. Ibs. ozs.
£ s. ,/.
Y!I.
252
'Phool Kari/. A striped muslin cm- 13 13
0 28 0 141
—
Gwalior.
broidered with sprigs of flowers.
VII.
255
Diagonal stripes of flowers in white
10 0
0 34
1 Of
400
Dacca.
X
cotton, with intervening smaller
M
sprigs.
VII.
256
1
Plain muslin embroidered with large
10 0
0 35
0 13^
3 18 0
Ditto.
I
flower sprig.
VII.
257
o
Vine leaf and grape pattern, with
10 0
1 0
1 5
400
Ditto.
M
intervening double rows of flower
H
sprigs.
VII.
258
Flower sprigs in diagonal order,
10 0 10
0 91
3 18 0
Ditto.
I
VII.
260
Bootee. Plain muslin with needle-
10 0 10
0 13|
1 10 0
Ditto.
|^ worked spots in crimson.
VIII.
293
"Embroidered with Moonga silk. Pat-
4 24
1 11
0 12|
Ditto.
tern, a check formed by cross lines
of small leaf pattern, -i-inch apart
and in diagonal order.
VIII.
292
Piece of Moonga silk and cotton, in
4 9
0 331
0 lOf
Ditto.
alternate stripes. Cotton stripes
embroidered with foliage pattern
a
0
in Moonga silk.
VIII.
295
\
Cotton and Moonga silk check, em-
4 17
0 33
0' 13^
,_,_
Ditto.
X
broidered with circular and star-
•J,
shaped flowers in Moouga silk.
VIII.
296
£
Cotton and Moonga silk in alternate
4 121
0 331
0 11£
Ditto.
*>" J
stripes. The cotton stripes em-
3
broidered with blue, red, and
oo
yellow flowers.
d
VI.
234
I
.Red twill cotton material, with nar-
1 29
0 26
1 1
Sylhet.
s
row black cross stripes : 21-inch
p
border embroidered with coloured
silks. The full piece is cut across
at centre and joined at sides to
form a dress-skirt.
VI.
235
Light blue cotton with cross stripes
1 29
0 25
1 1
_
Ditto.
of dark blue : 2^-in. border, em-
broidered with coloured silk and
cotton. The full piece is cut across
the centre and joined at sides to
form a dress-skirt.
(3428.)
116
PIECE GOODS.
2. HAND-EMBROIDERY. — GOLD, SILVER, TINSEL, "AND BEETLE WINGS.
No. of
Description.
Measurement.
Weight
of Piece.
Cost.
Place of
Manufacture,
or whence
obtained.
Vol.
Sample,
Length.
Width.
yds. ins.
yds. ins.
Ibs. oz.
£ s. d.
VII.
274
White muslin, with gold flowers
1 4
1 0
0 3
—
Madras.
VII.
276
Red muslin, scroll and foliage pattern,
9 22
1 3
1 111
—
Madras.
worked in flattened gold wire, with
flower sprigs in gold and beetle wing.
VII.
277
White muslin, tlu'ckly embroidered with
1 29
1 13
0 12
—
Madras.
gold and tinsel.
VII.
278
White muslin, embroidered with gold ;md
2 2
1 8
0 61
—
Madras.
tinsel.
VII.
279
White muslin, embroidered with gold and
3 7
1 12
0 81
7 10 0
Madras.
tinsel.
VII.
280
White muslin, embroidered with gold and
3 3
1 8
o 91
—
Madras.
tinsel.
XII.
445
Green silk gauze, embroidered with gold
0 22
1 7
—
0 13 0
Hyderabad,
flowers. An inch wide border of gold
Deccan,
lace, with figured edges of crimson silk.
bought in
For choices.
Madras.
XIV.
552
Silk gauze, crimson weft, blue warp ;
8 0
1 0
0 61
0 19 0
Trichinopoly,
embroidered with gold flowers.
Madras.
XIV.
553
Green silk gauze, embroidered with gold
8 0
0 34
0 61
0 19 0
Trichinopoly,
flowers.
Madras.
XIV.
554
Crimson silk gauze, embroidered with
8 0
1 0
o 51
0 19 0
Trichinopoly,
gold flowers.
Madras.
vn.
270
Gold cloth, embroidered with gold thread,
2 22
0 20
0 61
—
Madras.
beetle wing, and silver tinsel.
In the first part of Table 1 we have specimens of cotton embroidery on muslin, known
under the name of Chikan work, termed also Ckikan-Kari or Chiknn dozee. It includes '
a great variety of figured or flowered work on muslin for gowns, scarfs, &c. It also
comprises a variety of net-work, which is formed by breaking down the texture of the
cloth with the needle, and converting it into open meshes. According to Taylor, Ma-
homedan dresses are frequently ornamented in this manner ; and he adds that there are
about thirty varieties of this kind of work, of which the Tarter and Sumoonderlah are
considered the principal. It is said that the business of Chikan-Kari embroidery affords
employment to a considerable number of men and women in the town of Dacca.
In the second division of the first table we have a class of embroideries which, although
of a comparatively coarse description, occupy a position of some importance, on account
of the extent to which they are still exported to Arabia. These consist of fabrics of
Moonga silk, or of Moonga silk and cotton, embroidered either with cotton or Moonga
silk, but generally the latter.
The following is Taylor's description of this class of goods :—
" Some of these cloths are embroidered in the cotton portion of the warp with the
needle, and are then called Kashida. They vary in size from one and a quarter to six
yards in length, and from one to one and a quarter yards in breadth. Their price ranges
from 2 to 20 rupees (4*. to 40*.) per piece.
" Cloth printers (chipigurs) are employed to stamp the figures for embroidering on the
khasida cloths. The stamps which they use for this purpose are small blocks of the wood
of the khutul tree, having the figures carved in relief. The dye is a red earth, which
is brought from Bombay, and is apparently what is called " Indian earth" imported into
LACK. 117
that place from the Persian Gulf. It is mixed with gum mucilage when applied to the
cloth, and is easily effaced by washing.
" This kind of embroidery forms the leisure 'occupation of the majority of the females of
poor Mahomedan families in the town. The cloths having the figures stamped upon them
are distributed among the embroiderers of this class, and arc worked by them when not
engaged in their domestic duties. The merchants who carry on this business employ
male and female agents to distribute the cloths and silk and cotton thread among the
embroiderers, and through them they make occasional advances of wages to the latter, as
the work proceeds. The amount earned by each embroiderer is a small pittance, not
exceeding on an average ten or twelve shillings iti the year. These cloths are prepared
solely for the markets of Bussora and Jidda, but chiefly for the latter, to which a con-
siderable quantity of them is exported annually."
In the next, or third division (Table 2) are included the examples in which gold,
silver, tinsel, and beetle (Sfernocera orientalis) wings are employed in the decoration of
muslin, silk and gold cloth. -
Of the beautiful (silk on cloth) embroidery of Sind, and the still better known embroideries
in silk and gold on scarfs and shawls of Cashmere cloth, for which Delhi and other places
in the north of India are famous, no examples are given in the Books. To form an
opinion of the beauty and extent of these the India Museum Collection must be con-
sulted.*
The following is a statement of the kinds of silk and of gold wire employed in needle
embroidery at Dacca. The silk is of two sorts, first common, formerly exported under
the name of Dacca silk; and, second, floss silk.
Of the gold and silver thread and wire, the varieties are : —
1. Gonlabatoon, for embroidering muslins.
2. Goshoo, for embroidering caps.
3. Sulmah, for embroidering caps, slippers, Hookah snakes, &c.
4. Boohin, for the manufacture of gold lace and brocade.
LACE.
Of the ornamental net-work, wrought of threads of silk, flax, cotton, or of gold or silver
interwoven, to which the term lace is usually applied, no examples have been given in the
Books. The making of lace of this kind is of only recent introduction, and hitherto has been
confined to Nagercoil and a few other places in Southern India. Some of the specimens
shown at the Exhibition of 1851 and of 1 862f attracted attention, and the subject is alluded
to here chiefly on account of lace being one of the hand-fabrics which India may yet supply
to this and other countries.
* Some of the shop-windows in London frequently display beautiful examples of the class of articles here
alluded to.
j Regarding the specimens of lace made under Mrs. Caldwell's directions at the Edaiyangudi Missionary School in
Tinnevelly, to which a certificate of Honourable Mention was awarded in 1862, the Jury remarks, "White and black
lace from Tinnevelly, showing considerable aptitude for this class of manufacture, and that with perseverance great
progress would likely be made."
Some good specimens of India-made lace are to be seen in the India Museum Collection.
s 2
1 18 PIECE GOODS.
WOOL.
We have now to place before the reader such information as we possess regarding fabrics
made of wool.
In treating of these we shall reverse the order hitherto adopted, and speak first of the
more elaborate productions of the native loom, particularly of those known as Cashmere
shawls, leaving the commoner fabrics for after consideration.
CASHMERE SHAWLS.
Some of the ways in which the Cashmere shawl is worn by Native gentlemen will be
seen in PI. VIII.* — opposite— the persons of the three first figures being adorned with this
costly production.
The importance of the Cashmere shawl manufacture as an article of export, will be gathered
from the subjoined Table, which shows the value of the Cashmere shawls exported from
India to various countries during the past fifteen years.
* This Plate, on account of our having after its execution chosen, under the head of Woollen-goods, to deal first
with Cashmere Shawls, is made to precede instead of follow PI. VII.
COSTXTMIE-ILLXJSTK,
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C\MI.MI:I;I: SHAWLS. 121
It has to be noted that, although the name of ('tix/iHiw attaches to all the shawls of
the description under notice, a very considerable proportion of them are now manufactured
within our own territory. The following extract from the Report of the Lahore Central
Committee for the last International Exhibition (1862) affording, as it does, the latest
information on the subject, is here inserted ; and this, although involving some repetition
of details, will be followed by an extract from the Report of the Sub-Committee appointed
in connexion with the Exhibition of 1851, and also by Moorcroft's still more elaborate, but
much less recent, account of the manufacture as practised in Cashmere at the period of his
travels through Ladak and Cashmere between the years 1819 and 1825.
Referring to shawls, the manufacture of the Punjab, the Lahore Committee (1862) state:—
" This is now by far the most important manufacture in the Punjaub ; but thirty years
ago it was almost entirely confined to Kashmere. At the period alluded to, a terrible famine
visited Kashmere ; and, in consequence, numbers of the shawl-weavers emigrated to the
Punjaub, and settled in Umritsur, Nurpur, Dinangar, Tilaknath, Jelalpur, and Loodianah,
in all of which places the manufacture continues to flourish. The best shawls of Punjaub
manufacture are manufactured at Umritsur, which is also an emporium of the shawl trade.
But none of the shawls made in the Punjaub can compete with the best shawls made in
Kashmere itself; first, because the Punjaub manufacturers are unable to obtain the finest
species of wool ; and secondly, by reason of the inferiority of the dyeing, the excellence of
which in Kashmere is attributed to some chemical peculiarity in the water there. On receipt
of the raw pashutn or shawl wool, the first operation is that of cleaning it; this is done
generally by women ; the best kind is cleaned with lime and water, but ordinarily the wool
is cleaned by being shaken up with flour. The next operation is that of separating the hair
from the pushum ; this is a tedious operation, and the value of the cloth subsequently
manufactured varies with the amount of care bestowed upon it. The wool thus cleaned and
sorted is spun into thread with the common ' churka ' or native spinning-machine. I This is
also an operation requiring great care. White pashumeea thread of the finest quality will
sometimes cost as much as 21. 10s. a Ib. f The thread is next dyed, and is then ready for
the loom. The shawls are divided into two great classes — 1. Woven shawls, called Teliwalah ;
2. Worked shawls.
' Shawls of the former class are woven into separate pieces, which are, when required,
sewn together with such precision that the sewing is imperceptible. These are the most
highly prized of the two. In worked shawls, the pattern is worked with the needle upon
a piece of plain pashumeea or shawl cloth.
' A woven shawl made at Kashmere of the best materials, and weighing 7 Ibs., will cost
in Kashmere as much as 300/. ; of this amount the cost of the material, including thread,
is 30/., the wages of labour 100/., miscellaneous expenses 50/., duty 701.
" Besides shawls, various other articles of dress, such as chogas, or outer robes, ladies'
opera-cloaks, smoking-caps, gloves, &c., are made of pashutneea.
' Latterly great complaints have been made by European firms of the adulteration of the
texture of Kashmere shawls ; and there is no doubt that such adulteration is practised,
especially by mixing up Kirmanee wool with real pashum. In order to provide some guarantee
against this, it has been proposed that a guild or company of respectable traders should
be formed, who should be empowered to affix on all genuine shawls a trade mark, which
should be a guarantee to the public that the material of the shawl is genuine pashum,
especially as the Indian Penal Code provides a punishment for those who counterfeit or
falsify trade marks, or knowingly sell goods marked with false or counterfeit trade-marks.
122 WOOLLEN GOODS.
" At Delhi shawls are made up of pushumeea, worked with silk and embroidered with
gold lace. A very delicate shawl is made of the wool of a sheep found in the neighbourhood
of Ladak and Kulu ; the best wool is procurable in a village near llampur, on the Sutlej ;
hence the fabric is called ' Rampur chudder.' Other woollen manufactures in the Punjaub
are Peshawur chogas, made of the wool of the Dumba sheep, and of camel's hair, and chogas
made of Patti, or the hair of the Cabul goat."
Of the raw woollen substances used in the Punjaub for the manufacture of shawls, and for
some of the fabrics which will afterwards be referred to, the Committee give the following
description : —
" 1. Pushum, or shawl wool, properly so called, being a downy substance, found next
the skin and below the thick hair of the Thibetan goat. It is of three colours : white, drab,
and dark lavender (Tusha).
" The best kind is produced in the semi-Chinese Provinces of Turfan Kichar, and exported
via Yarkand to Kashmere. All the finest shawls are made of this wool, but as the Maharajah
of Kashmere keeps a strict monopoly of the article, the Punjab shawl-weavers cannot procure
it, and have to be content with an inferior kind of Pashum produced at Chathan and exported
via Leh to Umritsur, Nurpur, Loodianah, Jelapur, and other shawl-weaving towns of the
Punjab. The price of white pashum in Kashmere is for uncleaned, 3s. to 4s. per Ib. ; ditto,
cleaned, 6s. to 7s. per Ib. Of Tusha ditto, uncleaned, 2s. to 3s. per Ib. ; cleaned, from
5s. to 7*.
" 2. The fleece of the Dumba sheep of Cabul and Peshawur. — This is sometimes called
Kaltuli Pashum. It is used in the manufacture of the finer sorts of chogas, an outer robe
or cloak with sleeves, worn by Affghans and other Mfihomedans of the Western frontier.
" 3. Wahab Shahi, or Kirmani Wool.- — The wool of a sheep found in Kirman, a tract of
country in tl)e south of Persia, by the Persian Gulf. It is used for the manufacture of a
spurious kind of shawl-cloth, and for adulterating the texture of Kashmere shawls.
" 4. The hair of a goal common in Kabul and Peshawur, called Pat, from which a texture
called Patlu is made.
" 5. The woolly hair of the camel. — From this a coarser kind of choga is made.
" 6. The wool of the country sheep of the Plains. — Regarding the production of wool in
the Himalayan or Sub-Himalayan portion of the Punjab, the last year's Revenue Report
states that ' there can be no doubt that the valleys of the Sutlej, Ravee, Chandrabaga (or
Chenab), Namisukh, and other tributaries of the Indus, supply grazing grounds not to be
surpassed in richness and suitableness in any part of the world. The population inhabiting
them are chiefly pastoral ; but owing to sloth and ignorance, the wool they produce is but
small in quantity, full of dirt and ill-cared for in every way.' The government of the Punjab
have made efforts to improve the breed by the importation of Merino rams, but hitherto
v.'ith little success. However, a truss of Merino wool produced at Huzara, a hill district
to the north-west of the Punjab, and sent to England in I860, was there valued at Is. 6d.
per Ib."
The following is an extract from the Report on Cashmere shawls by the Committee for
the Exhibition of 1861, to which reference has already been made.*
* Extracted from the Official Illustrated Catalogue of the Exhibition of 1851. Members of the Committee,
Dr. II. Falconer, Joseph Agaberg, and Jorykissen Moakerjee.
C \silMERE SHAWLS. 123
" The principal articles of pushmina, or shawl-wool, manufacture may be classiiicd under
the following heads : —
I. DOSHALLA, or long shawls, 3i by H guz.
II. KUSSABA, or square shawls, U or '2.', guz. square.
III. JAMKWARS, or striped shawl pieces, 15^ by l.\ guz.
IV. ULWAN, or plain white shawl cloth.
V. Miscellaneous, such as carpets, canopies, saddle-cloths, and various articles of dress,
stockings, gloves, turbans, &c.
I. DoSHALLAS, Or LoNG SHAWLS.
" Doshallfis, or long shawls, invariably manufactured and sold in pairs, are the most esteemed
production of the looms of Cashmere. They vary greatly according to the richness of the
patterns, all of which are distinctly named, and according to the colours of which the dyers
profess to make upwards of fifty tints,) but the Sub-Committee will confine themselves to the
leading colours, viz., black, white, crimsons, purple, blue, green, and yellow.
" Of the finest doxhal/nx, the principal varieties in pattern depend upon the amount of
decoration of mitton, or centre piece, the pulla, or border pieces, being always richly flowered.
The following are the leading kinds : —
1. Khale mitton, or plain field shawls ;
2. Poor mitton, or full flowered field ;
3. Chand-dar, chantahi-dar, alifda fcoonj boothadar ;
according to ornament, being a moon or circle in the centre, four half-moons, green sprigs on
a plain ground, a group of flowers at the corners, or any combination of these.
" The Sub-Committee would restrict their consideration of the colours to eight kinds,
viz., 1. White, sada or sqfaed. 2. Black, mooshkee. 3. Crimson, goolanar. 4. Scarlet, kermisi.
5. Purple, ooda. 6. Blue, ferozee. 7- Green, zingare. 3. Yellow, zurd.
" Fine long shawls with plain fields of handsome patterns (khalli mitton) are procurable
at about 1,200 rupees per pair, and full flowered (poor mitton) at about 1,500 rupees.
Taking the average of these 1,350 rupees, as representing the price of the third class,
including chand-dar, chantahi-dar, &c., and as the average price of the whole ; and supposing
a pair of each of the above eight colours were ordered of the three several classes of pattern
we should have twenty -four pairs of shawls, at 1,350 rupees, making 32,400 rupees in all.
II. KUSSABAS, OR SQUARE SHAWLS.
" Knssabas, or square shawls, called also Roomals, are of two classes, viz., Kanee Roomal,
or loom-manufactured, and Umlee Roomal, or needle-embroidered shawls. In form they are
more suited to the taste of the Europeans than the long shawls, and are made and sold singly.
They run through the same range of colour and pattern as the long shawls. The needle-worked
kinds are much cheaper than the loom-manufactured, and the embroidery is far superior
in pattern and execution to the scarfs and shawls embroidered at Delhi. ^ Assuming eight
colours and three patterns of each of the Kanee Roomal, at an average of 400, 300, and 500
rupees each, twenty-four square shawls would cost 9,600 rupees, and the same number of
needle- worked of Umlee Roomals, at an average of 225, 150, to 300 rupees, would cost
5,400 rupees.
(3428.) T
124 WOOLLEN GOODS.
III. JAMEWARS.
" Jamewars form the third great class : they are handsome striped loom-wrought fabrics
of rich patterns, of which the French striped coloured muslins are printed imitations. They
are manufactured of an infinity of patterns, but the principal kinds are the Rega-lootha, or
small flowered ; the Kirkha-bootha, or large flowered ; and the Jhaldar, or netted patterns. \
The most elaborately worked cost as much as 2,000 rupees each.
IV. ULWAN.
" Ulwan, or plain shawl wool-cloth, is woven like plain muslin, without flower or ornament,
and is made in pieces of various lengths. It forms the centre portion or mitton of shawls,
and is used for turbans and cummurbunds. | It is well adapted for ladies' dresses. Eight
pieces of twenty yards each of the different colours above-named, at six rupees per yard,
would cost 960 rupees.
Another fabric is made which may be included under the same head as Ulwan, called
Muleedah-pushmina, being intended to imitate European broad-cloths. It is formed of Ulwan
manipulated in a peculiar manner in water, so as by rubbing to teaze out the wool of the
thread and raise it into a nap. A piece of twenty yards, at six rupees, would cost 120 rupees.
" A coarser fabric of the same class is manufactured in the Hill State, to the north-west
of Simla, called Putfoo-peshmina, which possesses great softness and warmth — in many
respects rivalling fine broadcloth."
The following is Moorcroft's * account of the shawl manufacture in Kashmir :
" The first task of the spinner is to separate the different materials of which the fleece
consists, usually in about the following proportions :
Coarse hair - - 1| seersf
Seconds or Phiri - - f ,,
Dust and foreign substances 2§ „
Fine wool - - - 2
6 „ or 1 tarak.
" Much attention is requisite to free the wool from the hair, and the process is a tedious
one.
" The next step is cleaning and separating the wool. A quantity of husked rice is steeped
in clean cold water, for a day and a night, or longer, until it becomes soft, when it is
ground, or bruised upon a stone slab, to fine flour. Thin layers of this and of the picked
wool are laid alternately, and squeezed with the hand until they are completely inter-
mixed. A little water may occasionally be sprinkled over the heap, if the weather is hot
and dry, else it is not necessary. Soap is never used, as it makes the wool harsh ; and
its employment in Hindustan being communicated to the Kashmirians, induced them to
boast that in this matter, at least, they were more knowing than the Europeans. After
being thus treated for about an hour, the flour is shaken out, the wool opened and torn
to pieces, chiefly by the nails, and made into somewhat square, thin, elastic pads called
Tumbu. In this process the Phiri, or seconds wool, is extricated. Though too coarse
* Moorcroft's Travels in Kashmir, &c., pp. 168 to 194. Vol. II. Murray : London, 1841.
j- The ordinary Indian seer is a little over 2 Ibs., and may be that to which Moorcroft here alludes.
CASHMERE SHAWl.s. 125
for fine shawls it is used in the manufacture of those of inferior quality, and of a strong
shawl cloth called " Pat//.'' The tumbu is then worked out into a thin, flat roving, about
half a yard long, which is called a Mala. The mala is folded up to the size of the
tumbu, and deposited in a deep pot of red earthenware, called a Tuskas, to be out of
the way of dust or accident, till required for the spinning wheel.
" The wheel is constructed on the same principle as that used in Hindustan, but varying
in neatness of form and finish, according to its price ; the rudest, the Tafchf'u/m; or
Paclibmlar, costs a half rupee; the Katzker, which is the most serviceable, three or four
rupees ; and Pakhchedar, which is used by those who spin for amusement only, costs
from six to 16 rupees. The iron spindle is enclosed in a cylindrical tube of straw or
reed grass, and runs through two elastic twists of grass ; and instead of one line of radii,
or spokes, supporting a continued circular wooden rim, there are two circular parallel walls
of flat spokes in contact at their edges, leaving between them, at their outer circum-
ference, an empty space. A hair cord, fastened to the loose end of one of the spokes, is
carried across the space or trough to the end of the next spoke but one on the oppo-
site side, and having been passed round, it returns to a spoke on the side from which
it began. By a continuation of this process a rim is formed of a surface of hair cord,
over which runs a small band that is said to be seldom cut by the friction to which it is
exposed. The principle kept in view by this arrangement of spindle and rim, is to pro-
duce a continuance of soft elastic movements without jerk or stiffness, to prevent the yarn
breaking on the occurrence of any slight interruption in drawing it out.
' Women begin to work at daybreak, continue with little interruption the whole day, if
not taken off by other domestic affairs ; and extend their labour until very late in the
night, spinning by moonlight, when available, and when they cannot afford to purchase
011 for a lamp. The fine wool is commonly spun into about 700 gaz,* each gaz consist-
ing of 16 girahs, about equal to nails. This yarn is doubled and formed into twist, which
is cut into 200 lengths, each length of 3| gaz, this measure being . suited to the length
of the warp for a shawl. From the phiri, or seconds wool, about 100 gaz of yarn are
also produced.
" The yarn of the fine wool is sold sometimes by measure and sometimes by weight.
A hundred lengths of yarn of fine wool doubled, and each 3£ gaz, bring ordinarily
seven tangas, or about seven pence. But if the same kind of yarn be sold without being
doubled or twisted, the price is regulated by weight — a pal bringing from 12 annas to one
rupee four annas, according to the demands of the market. The yarn from phiri, or
seconds wool, is sold only by measure, but the gaz employed consists of no more than
12 girahs, or nails, that is, of four girah less than the gaz in ordinary use. 100 yards
of phiri twist, and each of two short gaz, or of 24 girah, sell for one and a half tangaf,
three pice, or about three half-pence. Although calculations upon this matter can be little
more than approximations, yet 3d. or 3\d. per day, or from 3 rupees to 3 rupees 8 annas,
or from 6s. to 7«. a month, may be taken as the general earnings of an industrious and
expert spinner in Kashmir : out of which, however, must be subtracted the price of the
wool, leaving only 1 rupee 8 annas (or about 3s.) for her labour.
" If shawl wool be furnished to a spinner to clean and to spin, 8 annas are paid for spinning
one pal, or 3£ rupees weight of yarn of the requisite quality for shawls. Sheep's wool,
* The Gaz or Guz is about 1 yard. The Girah is given as 2£ inches.
t Thirty-two tangas or annas equal two rupees.
T 2
126 WOOLLEN GOODS.
spun by contract, is paid for by the pao, or ^ seer, at the rate of from 2 tangas, or 4
pice, to 12 annas per pao, according to the fineness of the yarn; and the spinning of this
quantity into yarn suited for shawls will occupy a woman for eight days. There are
several varieties of thread, distinguished by different degrees of fineness. From one pal of
clean, fine, shawl wool a spinner will draw from 100 to 1,000 threads of 3.V gaz each. There
is not such a difference between the price of coarse and of fine yarn as might be expected,
owing to the greater expenditure on the former of a material that is dear, and on the
latter, of labour that is cheap. Shawl wool is sometimes spun by men with a loose
spindle like that used in Ladakh. These men are called Trakhans, and the yarn thus
spun is the finest ; but very little of it is now made. Girls begin to spin at the age of
10, and 100,000 females are employed in this occupation in Kashmir. About one- tenth of
this number are supposed to spin for the purpose of obtaining shawls for themselves, or
for other members of their families, and nine-tenths to earn a livelihood.
" The Puimangu keeps a shop for the purchase of yarn, but also sends people to collect
it from the houses of the spinners, who give notice of their approach by ringing a bell.
The yarn is sold to the weavers at a profit of from one pice to a tanga in the rupee.
As a large stamp duty is levied on shawl goods when finished, the exportation of the
yarn is forbidden, and the prohibition is enforced by heavy fines and imprisonment. Much
of it is, nevertheless, exported to those places in the Punjab where the expatriated weavers
have settled.
" Having ascertained the kind of pattern most likely to suit the market, the weaver
applies to persons whose business it is to apportion the yarn according to the colours
required ; and when this is settled, he takes it to another, whose function it is to divide
the yarn into skeins accordingly, and each skein is delivered to the Rangrez, or dyer.
When the body of the cloth is to be left plain, the phiri, or seconds yarn, is alone
given to be dyed. This is generally about the thickness of common cotton sewing thread,
is loosely twisted, of a coarser quality than the yarn used for the cloth, and is prepared
for employment in flowers, or other ornaments, from its standing higher, and being, as it
were, embossed upon the ground.
" The dyer prepares the yarn by steeping in cold water. He professes to be able to
give it 64 tints, most of which are permanent. Each has a separate denomination ; as
for instance, the crimson is termed Gulanar (pomegranate flower) ; the best kind is derived
from cochineal imported from Hindustan ; inferior tints are from Lac and Kirmis
(Chermes}, distinguished as Kirmisi, Kirmdana, and Kirmisi lac, or cochineal, and lac
chermes ; logwood is used for other red dyes ; blues and greens are dyed with indigo, or
colouring matter extracted by boiling from European broad cloth. Logwood is imported
from Mooltan, and indigo from India. Carthamus and saffron, growing in the province,
furnish means of various tints of orange, yellow, &c. The occupation of a dyer is
invariably hereditary. The whiter and finer the fibre of the wool, and the finer the yarn
into which it is made, the more capable it is said to be of receiving a brilliant dye ; and
this is one reason why the fine white wool of the goat is preferred to that of sheep.
" The Nakatu adjusts the yarn for the warp and for the weft. That intended for the
former is double, and is cut into lengths of 3^ gaz, anything short of that measure being
considered fraudulent. The number of these lengths varies from 2,000 to 3,000, accord-
ing to the closeness, or openness of texture proposed, and the fineness or coarseness of the
yarn.
(As I LMERE SKAAVLS. 127
" The weft is made of yarn which is single, but a little thicker than the double yarn
or twist of the w;irp. The weight of the weft is estimated at half more than that of the
\varp. The Xnkntu receives the yarn in hanks, but returns it in balls : he can prepare
in one day the warp and weft for two shawls.
"The Pennakamguru, or warp dresser, takes from the weaver the yarn \vhich has been
cut and reeled and stretching the lengths by means of sticks into a band, of which the
threads are slightly separate, dresses the whole by dipping it into thick boiled rice water.
After this the skein is slightly squeezed, and again stretched into a band, which is
brushed and suffered to dry ; by this process each length becomes stiffened and set apart
from the rest.
" Silk is generally used for the warp on the border of the shawl, and has the advantage
of showing the darker colours of the dyed wool more prominently than a warp of yarn
as well as hardening and strengthening, and giving more body to the edge of the cloth.
When the border is very narrow it is woven with the body of the shawl ; but when
broader, it is worked on a different loom, and afterwards sewn on the edge of the Shawl
by the Rufiignr, or fine drawer, with such nicety, that the union can scarcely be
detected. The silk is twisted for the border warp by the Tabgar. The warp differs in
breadth, the narrowest consisting of 20, and the broadest of 100 threads. From the Tabgar
the silk is handed to the Alakaband, who reels it and cuts it into the proper lengths.
The operation of drawing, or of passing the yarns of the warp through the heddles, is
performed precisely in the same -way as in Europe, and the warp is then taken by the
Shctl-baf, or weaver, to the loom. The weavers are all males, commencing to learn the
art at the age of 10 years. In all transactions there are two parties, the master, or
Ustdd, and the scholar, or Shahgird, the former being the capitalist, the latter the
mechanic. Work is executed under four different conditions : first, for wages, when it
almost always happens that a system of advances has occurred, by which the workman
is so deeply indebted to his employer that he may, in some sort, be considered as his
bondslave. Secondly, upon contract, of which the common term is, that one pice is paid
for every hundred needles carrying coloured yarn that shall have been each once passed
round as many yarns of the warp. Third, a sort of partnership, in which the Ustdd
finds all the materials, and the workmen give their labour. When a shawl is sold, the
outlay of the Ustdd is deducted from the price, and the remainder is divided into five
shares, of which one goes to the master, and the other four to the workmen. The fourth
mode is an equal division of the proceeds ; in which case the master not only finds the
materials, but feeds the workmen. Three men are employed upon an embroidered shawl of
an ordinary pattern for three months, but a very rich pair will occupy a shop for 18 months.
" The loom differs not in principle from that of Europe, but is of inferior workmanship.
An Ustdd has from three to 300 in his establishment, and they are generally crowded
together in long, low apartments. When the warp is fixed in the loom, the Nakash, or
pattern drawer, and the Tarah-guru and Talim-guru, or persons who determine the propor-
tion of yarn of different colours to be employed, are again consulted. The first brings
the drawing of the pattern in black and white. The Tarah-guru, having well considered it,
points out the disposition of the colours, beginning at the foot of the pattern, and calling
out the colour, the number of threads to which it is to extend, that by which it is to be
followed, and so on in succession, until the whole pattern has been described. From his
dictation the Talim-guru writes down the particulars in a kind of character or shorthand,
and delivers a copy of the document to the weavers.
1 28 WOOLLEN GOODS
" The workmen prepare the tujis, or needles, by arming each with coloured yarn of
about four grains weight. These needles, without eyes, are made of light smooth wood
and have both their sharp ends slightly charred, to prevent their becoming rough or
jagged through working. Under the superintendence of the Tarah-guru, the weavers knot
the yarn of the tuji to the warp. The face, or right side of the cloth, is placed next
to the ground, the work being carried on at the back or reverse, on which hang the
needles in a row, and differing in number from 400 to 1,500, according to the lightness
or heaviness of the embroidery. As soon as the Ustud is satisfied that the work of
one line or woof is completed, the comb is brought down upon it with a vigour and
repetition, apparently very disproportionate to the delicacy of the materials.
" The cloth of shawls is generally of two kinds, one plain, or of two threads, one twilled,
or of four threads. The former was, in past times, wrought to a great degree of fineness, but
it has been, of late, less in demand. The various twilled cloths are usually from five to
12 girahs, or nails, wide. Shawls are twilled, and are commonly about 24 nails broad, and
differ in their extent of field. Two persons are employed in weaving a cloth of this
breadth. One throws the shuttle from the edge as far as he can across the warp, which
is usually about half way. It is there seized by the second weaver, who throws it
onwards to the opposite edge, and then returns it to his companion, who, in his turn,
introducing his fingers into the warp, forwards the shuttle to the edge whence it started,
and then recommences the operation. The cloth thus made is frequently irregular, the
threads of some parts of the woof being driven up tightly, and in others left open, from
which results a succession of bands, sufficiently distinguishable whilst without colour, but
still more obvious when dyed. The open texture is, in a degree, remediable by the
introduction of fresh threads; but there is no sufficient cure for that which has been
much compacted. One might be led to suspect that there existed some radical defective-
ness in the principle of this mode of weaving not readily mastered, were not pieces of
cloth found occasionally of an almost perfect regularity of texture. But the greatest
irregularity is discoverable in those shawls which have the deepest and heaviest borders,
and a further examination compels me to retract an observation somewhere made of the
artist being so much engrossed by attention to the work of the pattern as to neglect the
structure of the field. The edge of the warp in the loom is filled with the heavy thread
of the phiri, or seconds yarn, charged also with colour, so that in a few lines the front
of the worked part advances beyond that of the plain part or field, and an endeavour
to equalize this betrays the weaver into a work which proves fruitless ; and, in general,
the heavier the embroidery on the border, and, of course, the higher the price of the
shawl, the less regular is the structure of the cloth. Such indeed, in some instances, is
the degradation of the cloth in the field, as to induce some foreign merchants to cause
it to be removed, and another piece to be engrafted within the edge of the border. But
in this case there is no other remedy than in a judicious selection of a sheet of the same
breadth and fineness; for, although two breadths of the narrow cloth might fit the
vacant space, yet these must be joined by the rafugar in the middle; and, although this
can be so done that the band differs not in thickness from the rest of the cloth, yet the
joint is discernible when held between the eye and the light, from the threads in the
joined breadth not being continuous in the same line; whereas any irregularity of this
nature is drowned in the edge of the border. The best practice to ensure a good field
seems to consist in weaving the border, in every case, separately, and inserting the
field by the Rafugar.
129
" When finished, the shawls are submitted to the Purusgar, or cleaner, whose business it
is to free the shawl from discoloured hairs or yarn and from ends or knots : he either
pulls them out severally with a pair of tweezers, or shaves the reverse face of the cloth
with a sharp knife ; any defects arising- from cither operation are immediately repaired by
the rafuffdi: At this stage of the manufacture the shawls are sent to the Collector
of the Stamp Duties, by whom an ail i-nlwm duty of 26 per cent, is levied, and each
piece is then stamped and registered. The goods are now handed over to the Wafurosh,
or person who has advanced money on them to the manufacturer, and to the Mohk'un, or
broker, and these two settle the price and effect the sale to the merchant; the former
charges interest on his advances, the latter a commission, varying from 2 to 5 per cent.
The purchaser takes the goods unwashed, and often in pieces, and the fine-drawer and
washerman have still to do their part.
" When partly washed, the Dholi — or washerman — brings the shawls to the merchant,
that they may be examined for any holes or imperfections ; should such occur, they
are remedied at the expense of the seller; if there are none, the washing is completed.
This is done with clear cold w:itcr, using soap very cautiously to white parts alone, and
never to embroidery. Coloured shawls are dried in the shade ; white ones are bleached in the
open air, and their colour is improved by exposure to fumes of sulphur. After being washed,
the shawls are stretched in a manner which answers, in some degree, to calendering. A
wooden cylinder in two parts is employed for this purpose, round which the shawl, folded
so as not to be quite so broad as the cylinder is long, is carefully wrapped, being occasion-
ally damped to make it fold tighter; the end is sewn down, two wedges are then
gradually driven between the two parts of the cylinder at the open extremities, so as to
force them asunder, and the surrounding folds of the shawl are thus stretched to as great
an extent as is consistent with its texture. The piece remains in this state for two
days, when it is removed to be packed. The packages are of various dimensions, but
they are formed on one principle : the shawls are separated by sheets of smooth, glazed,
and coloured paper, and they are placed between two smooth planks of wood, with
exterior transverse bars, which, projecting beyond the planks, offer a purchase for cords to
tie them together : the whole is then placed in a press, or under heavy weights, for some
days, when the planks are withdrawn, and the bale is sewed up in strong cloth : over
this a cover of tus, or of birch bark, is laid, and an envelope of wax cloth is added, and
the whole is sewed up as smoothly and lightly as possible in a raw hide, which, con-
tracting in drying, gives to the contents of the package a remarkable degree of compact-
ness and protection.
" An immense variety of articles of shawl stuff are manufactured in Kashmir, besides
the shawls themselves. Of them, also, there are two chief varieties, those made in
the manner described, and the worked shawl (doshali amli), in which the whole of the
embroidery is worked on the cloth, with needles having eyes, and with a particular
kind of woollen thread, instead of the silk employed in the usual embroidered work. In
the amli shawl, the pattern which is in every case delineated, but which at the loom is
read off in certain technical terms from a book, is covered with transparent paper,
upon which the outlines of the composition are slightly traced with a charcoal twig,
and the traced lines are permanently defined by being pricked through with a small
needle. The cloth intended to receive the pattern is rubbed strongly upon a smooth plank,
with a piece of highly polished agate or cornelian, until it is perfectly even and regular.
The pricked pattern is then stretched upon the cloth, and some fine coloured powder,
130 WOOLLEN GOODS.
charcoal or chalk, is passed slightly over the paper, which, penetrating through the holes,
transfers the outline to the cloth underneath. This is next more accurately delineated
•with some coloured powder, rendered tenacious by mucilage of gum arabic, which, when
the work is completed, is readily detached in dust by the hand.
" The use of patterns by the chain stitch embroiderer, and the carpet weaver of
Kashmir, is more restricted to a confined number of forms, by being transferred from a
wooden block to the cloth, in regard to the former, and to paper in respect to the latter.
" The following are the chief articles of this manufacture, with their usual prices.
" Shawls in pairs form the principal article of this manufacture, and have different names,
according to their nature and quality, as plain white, coloured, embroidered in the loom,
or by the hand with the needle, viz. : —
Patu Pashmini, sometimes made of Aaal-tus, but more frequently of the coarse kinds of shawl wool, is
in length 4 gaz and in breadth l£ gaz. This is thick, and used as a blanket or for outer clothing.
Price from five to six rupees per gaz.
Shala Phiri, as its name denotes, is made of phiri, or seconds wool. Its length is from 3£ to 4
gaz; breadth, H gaz. Price from 20 to 30 rupees per piece.
Ilahcan, or plain white cloth, of fine shawl wool, without flower, border, or other ornament, differs in
length, but is 12 girahs in breadth, and is used for turbans and for dyeing.
Price from 3 to 6 rupees per gaz.
Jowhar Shala Sadu, or shawl with a narrow edging of coloured yarn, is from 3^ to 3| gaz in length
and H in breadth. Price from SO to 60 rupees per piece.
" As all the following shawls are of the same dimensions, viz., 3^ gaz in length, and
1^ gaz in breadth, it is unnecessary to affix the measures to their several names.
Shala Hashiadar, edged by a single border. Price from 60 to 70 rupees.
Shala Dohashiadar, has a double border. Price from 40 to 70 rupees.
Shala Chahar Hashiadar has four borders. Price from 60 to 70 rupees.
Hashiadar Khosar, or Khalil Khani, has two borders and two tanga, sometimes with, at others
without a flower in the corners. 40 to 50 rupees.
Hashiadar Kiungridar. This has a border of the usual form with another within side, or nearer to
the middle, resembling the crest of the wall of Asiatic forts, furnished with narrow niches or embrasures
for wall pieces, or matchlocks, whence its name. 100 to 150 rupees.
Dhourdar has an ornament running all round the shawl, between the border and the field.
200 to 2,200 rupees per pair.
Mathandar, has flowers or decorations in the middle of the field. 300 to 1,800 rupees per pair.
Chand'dar has a circular ornament or moon in the centre of the field. 500 to 1,500 rupees per pair.
Choutahidar has four half-moons. 300 to 1,500 rupees per pair.
Kunjbuthadar has a group of flowers at each corner. 200 to 900 rupees per pair.
Alifdar has green sprigs, without any other colour, on a white ground or field.
120 to 1,150 rupees per pair.
Kaddar has large groups of flowers, somewhat in the form of the cone of a pine, with the ends or
points straight, or curved downwards.
Dohaddar has two heights of such groups, and
Sekaddar has three rows, and so on to five and upwards ; in the latter case, however, the cones are
somewhat small. 100 to 800 rupees per pair.
" The ornaments of shawls are distinguished by different names, as Pala, Hashia,
Zanjir, Dhour, &c., and these are divided into different parts. By the term Pala, is
meant the whole of the embroidery at the two ends, or, as they are technically called,
the heads of the shawl.
The Hashia, or border, is disposed commonly one at each side in the whole length, and if double or
triple, gives particular denomination to the shawl.
The Zanjir, or chain, runs above and also below the principal mass of the Pala, and, as it were, confines it.
CASHMERE SHAWLS. 131
Tin- Dlnmr, or running ornament, i- situated to the inside in regard to the //n.i/iin and I lie Znnjir,
loping iinniediately the whole of the field.
The Kinijli/il/in is a corner ornament, or clustering of flowers.
The Mniiiin is the decorated part of the field or ground.
liutha is the generic term for flowers, but is specifically applied when used alone t:> the large coue-like
ornament which forms the innsl prominent feature of the Pala. Sometimes there is only tine line of tin -c
ornaments, extending from the lowest Zniijir to the upper one. When there is a double row, one above
the other, the liiitJin is called Dokad, Schkad, up to five, after which it takes the name of Tuliitddnr.
Kadi liiitlui consists of three parts ; vi/., the Pat or foot or pediment of leaves generally ; the Slii/unn,
or belly, and the Sir, or head. The head is either erect, straight, curved, or inclined. If the Dutlia slope
uerally it is named Butha-kaj. The That, or net, is the work which separates the different But tins,
but sometimes the interstice is without ornament.
Jamaicar signifies, literally, a gown piece. The length of this cloth is 3| gaz, and the breadth !•£ gaz.
This article branches into many varieties, as Khirkhabutha, large compound flowers, consisting of groups
of smaller ones. This is used by the Persians and Afghans.
Kupees per piece.
RezabuAa (small flowers thickly set) 200 to 700
Thulditr (network) - 500 to 1,700
I si i mi 250 to 400
Mehramat 150 to 300
Khatherast 150 to 750
Murpech 200 to 350
Kalmkar 300 to 1,000
Zakhe Augur . 300 to 500
Chaporast 300 to 7,000
Dogul, Seh-fful, Chahar-gul, 8/c. 500 to 1,000
Barghe Bed 250 to 400
Gulisant 200 to 900
Duazdeh Khat - 700 to 1,500
Duazdch rang - 800 to 1,400
Gule parwanc - . 300 to 450
Kaddhar 300 to 2,000
Kayhamu, Sabzkar, Sajed 120 to 130
' These are made by the shawl weaver alone, and go largely into Hindustan, where they
are dyed, the small green flowers being previously tied up in hard small knots, so as to
be protected from the action of the dye, and are, of course, when untied, each surrounded
by a small white field. Small eyes of spots of yellow, red, and of other colours, are sup-
posed to harmonize with the green flowers and the new ground, and these are added by
embroiderers of Chikkandoz.
Kasabeh or Rumal, women's veils, square shawls. These are from one-and-a-half to two-and-a-half gaz
square, and are called
Khathdnr 300 to 500 rupees.
Mehramat 150 to 300 „
Islimi, with the 13 other patterns of the Jama wars ; and in addition there are —
Chaharbagh - 300 to 350 rupees.
Hashia 100 to 175 „
Chand . 50 to 200 „
Shash Manta/ii 250 to 200 „
Feringi, exported chiefly to Russia - - - 100 to 500
Chantahi - 150 to 400 „
Tara Armeni, exported chiefly to Armenia and Persia - 100 to 250
Tara Rumi, exported chiefly to Turkey - 120 to 300
Sada for domestic use - 12 to 15 „
(3428.)
132 WOOLLEN GOODS.
Sliamlrts, or girdles for the waist, worn by the Asiatics, are 8 gaz in length, and 1^ gaz broad, of
various colors and patterns, and vary from 50 to 2,000 rupees a piece, according to the richness of the
work.
Dosliala or shawls, which contain three palas instead of two, go only to Thibet, and sell for 100 to 150
rupees.
Goshpcch or Patha, or turbans, are in length from 8 to 10 gaz, breadth 1 gaz, and of all colours. One
variety has two palas, two zanjirs, and two hashias. 150 to 800 rupees.
Mandila, another variety, sometimes has a zanjir, and sometimes is without this ornament. This latter
is from 8 to 10 gaz in length, and about 12 giras broad. 45 to 70 rupees.
Khalln Paskmiita, shawl carpets. This is sold at 20 to 40 rupees the square gaz of only three-quarters,
and is made of any size in a single piece.
Nakash. Trousers. Some are with, others without, seams. The former are made of two pieces, which
are sewn together by the rafugar, the latter by the jarab saz, or stocking maker. 200 to 500 rupees per
pair.
Chaharkhana, netted cloth. Length indefinite ; breadth, 1^ gaz; used by women. 5 to 10 rupees per gaz.
Gulbadan. Length indefinite, breadth from 14 girahs to one gaz. 5 to 6 rupees per gaz.
Lungi, girdles. Length 3-^ gaz ; breadth, 1^ gaz. These differ from Shamlas by being in narrow check,
and bordered by lines of different colours. 50 to 70 rupees.
Takhin, caps, 8 annas to 4 rupees.
Jarab, short stockings. Guldar and Mehramat, flowered and striped. 1 to 5 rupees.
Maze Pashmina, long stockings. 5 to 25 rupees.
Sakkab Posh, canopies. 300 to 1,500 rupees.
Darparda, curtains for doors and windows. Same price as Jamawar, by measure.
Kajjari Asp, saddle cloths, by measure.
Kajjari Fil, elephant's housing, by measure.
Balaposh or P along Posh, quilt or coverlet. 300 to 1,000 rupees.
Galaband, cravat. 12 to 300 rupees.
Pistanband, neckerchief. 5 to 15 rupees.
Langota, waist-belts. 15 to 30 rupees.
Postin, cloths left long in the nap to line pelisses. 500 to 1,000 rupees.
Paipech, leggings. Length, 2 gaz ; breadth, 1 gira, of all colors. From 2 to 10, rupees.
Yezar, or Izarband, waist-strings. 1 to 15 rupees.
Takkia, pillow bier. Same price as Jamawar.
Khalita, bags or purses. 8 annas to 2 rupees.
Kubbur Posh, shrouds or covers for tombstones. Same price as Jamawar.
Takposh, covers or hangings in front of recesses or cupboards ; and
Khwanposh, dish covers or napkins, of various qualities and patterns. From 30 to 500 rupees a piece."
The following remarks on the shawl-wool of the domestic goat of Ladakh, and on that
of the wool of the Wild Goat, including a notice of the manner in which the shawl- wool
is picked from the fleece are also from Moorcroft : —
" One of the most important articles of the trade of Ladakh is shawl-wool, of which
it forms in some degree the source, but in a still greater the entrepot between the
countries whence the wool is chiefly supplied, Rodokh and Chan-than, and that in which
it is consumed, Kashmir. The wool is that of a domestic goat, and consists of the under
fleece or that next the skin beneath the outer coat of hair ; the breed is the same
in Ladakh as in Lassa, Great Tibet and Chinese Turkistan, but the wool is not so fine
as in the breeds of the districts on its eastern and northern frontier. The fleece is cut
once a year, and the wool, coarsely picked either in the place from whence it comes or at
Le, is sold by the importer to the merchants at that city, by whom it is sent on to
Kashmir. The Raja and Khalun deal extensively in this trade, but it is also shared by
merchants both from Kashmir and Turan. About 800 loads are annually exported to
s ii UVIMVOOL. i:j;j
Kashmir, to which country, by ancient custom and engagements, the export is exclusively
confined, and all attempts to convey it to other countries are punished by confiscation. In
like manner it is considered in Rodokh and Chan-than as illegal to allow a trade in shawl-
wool except through Ladakh, and in the latter country considerable impediments arc
opposed to the traffic in wool from Yarkand, although it is of superior quality and
cheapness. The hair of the goat after it is separated from the wool is made into ropes,
blankets, and bags for home use, and as wrappers for bales of merchandise.
" Besides the fleece of the domesticated goat, that of the wild goat, under ,the deno-
mination of Asnl! Tux, is exported in smaller quantities to Kashmir. It is of a light
brown colour and exceeding fineness, and is worked into shawls, a kind of soft cloth
called Tusi, and linings for shawl-wool stockings ; very few shawls, however, are made
from this materal.
" In general the pickers of shawl-wool are paid by the hair, but in this case the hair is
considered unfit for making into ropes, &c. Shawls made of this material would be much
softer, lighter, and warmer than those of ordinary fabric. When, without being picked,
the Asali Tus is worked into Tusi it forms a warm, soft cloth of a drab or gray colour
which is much worn in the hills. This article must be always high priced from the
difficulty of procuring the animal that produces it, the wild goat rarely venturing within
gun-shot during the day, and being obtained only by snares at night, when they come
down from the mountains to browse in the valleys."*
' On my way to Digar I had an opportunity of witnessing the manner in which the
shawl wool was extracted from the fleece. After the hair of the goat had been cut short
with a knife in the direction of its growth, or from the head towards the tail, a sort of
comb was passed in the reversed direction, and brought away the finer wool almost
unmixed with the coarse hair. The comb consisted of seven pegs of willow tied side by
side and secured by cross bars ; the pegs were cut away at the points to the thickness
of quills and were made slightly to diverge from each other. The operation was roughly
performed, and brought away scales of the cuticle along with the wool. The wool, however,
was at this season easily detached, for it is a curious provision of nature that with the setting
in of warmer weather the delicate woolly clothing nearest the skin of the mountain animals
being no longer needed, becomes loosened in its attachment, and is removed, if not by man,
by the animals themselves. I noticed the yaks at the end of April very busy rubbing
themselves with their horns and bringing off the finer hairs in considerable quantities. In
sheep and dogs the wool rose to the end of the hair, and either fell off or was got rid of
by the animals rolling on the ground or rubbing themselves against trees, &c., and I was
told that the wild goats and sheep relieve themselves in the same manner of a vesture
indispensable to their comfort in winter, but unnecessary and inconvenient in the heat of
summer."t
* Moorcroft's "Travels in Kashmir," &c., vol. L, p. 346. f Op. cit., vol. I., p. 410.
U 2
134
WOOLLEN GOODS.
CASHMERE CLOTH AND WOOL FOR SHAWLS, &c.
In the following Table are inserted the particulars regarding the specimens of Cashmere
cloths and of the portions of the Shawls which are shown in the books.
No. of
Description.
Measurement.
Weight
of Piece.
Cost.
Place of
Manufacture,
or where
obtained.
Vol.
Sample.
Length.
Width.
yds. ins.
yds. ins.
Ibs. oz.
£ x. d.
XVIII.
667
["Bright crimson, fine quality -
7 0
1 10
2 4
300
Loodiana,Punjab.
XVIII.
668
Black, first quality. Chiefly used for
4 10
0 19
0 12
—
Cashmere.
Chogas.
xvin.
669
White, fine quality -
7 0
1 19
2 12
400
Loodiana,
GO
a
Punjab.
XVIII.
670
H
O
Magenta, first quality
5 0
0 28
1 ]i
2 15 0
Cashmere.
XVIII.
671
o<
Black, second quality
5 0
0 26
1 0
—
Cashmere.
XVIII.
672
£
Grey, second quality
0 26
0 14|
300
Cashmere.
XVIII.
673
5
-1
Green, fine texture - - - 6 20
1 6
0 15
3 10 0
Cashmere.
XVIII.
674
fi
Purple, fine texture -,50
0 26
0 14
—
Cashmere.
XVIII.
675
Crimson, second quality
5 10
0 25
0 15
—
Cashmere.
XVIII.
678
Crimson, coarse shawl cloth, inferior
6 21
0 27
1 7
—
Lahore.
^ in quality.
XVIII.
664
fjamewar, striped and figured, fine
3 14
1 19
2 8
700
Kangra.
3 quality.
XVIII.
66.5
5 < Red ground, pine pattern throughout
3 9
1 15
2 2
—
Cashmere.
XVIII.
666
(jj Green ground, pine and flowered
3 0
16:27
—
Cashmere.
L pattern.
No attempt could, of course, be made to illustrate, in this way, the patterns of the Shawls.
The three examples (Nos. 664, 665, and 666, Vol. xviii) have merely been inserted to show
the material in its worked, or loom-embroidered condition.
The ten specimens of the cloth are, however, calculated to give a good idea of the
beauty of the dye, and the delicious softness of the fabric which forms, so to speak, the base
of the Cashmere Shawl — the comfort of which in wear, however, perhaps is diminished
by the quantity and weight of the material with which it is so profusely but charmingly
decorated.
In the preceding description of the wool employed in the manufacture of the true Cashmere
shawl, it will be observed that considerable importance is attached to the fact that it should,
in all cases, consist of the down called pushum, which is found upon goats pastured in Ladak
and other elevated regions to the north of the Himalayas. There are no doubt very excellent
reasons for this distinction ; but on this point we would remark that whatever these may
be, the preference given to the Goat Wool cannot be ascribed merely to its superior
fineness. These downs act as a protection from the intense cold, and it is probable that all
the hair-bearing animals in these regions possess them to some extent. The Yak and
Camel, and even the Shepherd's Dog,* we know to do so, and the down of the two former
is often found to be quite as fine as that of the Shawl-Goat itself. Again the beautifully
fine sheep's wool of which the Rampore Chuddar is said to be manufactured, frequently equals,
in softness, that from the goat : it would appear, however, not to admit, equally with the
latter, of the attachment of dyes, and it is probably in this respect that the chief difference
is to be found.
* Vigne, "Travels in Kashmir," vol. II. p. 124.
CAMia's II AIR CLOTH, ETC.
135
On the subject of the sources of the different wools employed in the manufacture of
various fabrics found in Northern India, considerable obscurity prevails. The group to which
we have next to allude affords an illustration of this.
PUTTOO ; CAMEL'S HAIR CLOTH, &o.
The material called Puttim, of which the examples given in the books are embraced in
the next Table, is usually considered to be manufactured from the inferior qualities of
shawl-wool, and such may often be the case ; but the fine down of other animals as, for
instance, the camel, is, we believe, capable of making a fabric equally good in respect of
softness. Two Itonn Ji<l;' examples of Camel Hair Cloth are given in the end of the Table,
and the latter of the two (No. 686) is found to contain a wool or down quite as fine as
that in some of the true shawl-cloth fabrics.
The Puttoo is generally employed by the natives for making up into long coats called
Chogas, of the form of which the figures 55, 56, and 57 at bottom of PI. VIII., afford
illustrations.
The Choga is ornamented in a variety of ways, generally by means of silk braiding.
Those made of the fine Cashmere cloth are often gold embroidered (See two sitting
figures to left in group 54, PI. VIII., facing p. 118).
Plate IX. — opposite next page — gives a very good illustration of ornamental braiding of
the back, collar, and sleeves of a Choga of Cashmere cloth of the Puttoo variety, in which
the material has been thickened, and a pile raised by some mechanical process.
This is a class of work in which the Native excels, and it is probable that were shapes
suited to European taste supplied, he would find a steady market in the West for articles
made of the fine woollen cloths which he has at command.
Xo. of
Description.
Measurement.
Weight
of piece.
Cost.
Place of
Manufacture,
or where
obtained.
Vol.
Sample.
Length.
Width.
yds. ins.
yds. ins.
Ibs. oz.
£ «. d.
XVII.
648
" Foorook " or " Puttoo." Dark chocolate
11 0
0 15
9 11 0 12 0
Lassa. Obtained
brown. Superior quality. Thick
j
from Kangra.
material.
XVII.
649
" Puttoo." Thick, uncoloured material -
6 29
0 12
3 7
0 18 0
Lassa. Obtained
from Kangra.
XVIII.
680
" Puttoo " Kid cloth. Wrapper ; fine
4 29
0 3H
4 1
340
Lahore.
quality. Plain white. Sewn together,
two pieces form the complete cloak or
covering.
XVIII.
681
" Puttoo." Kid cloth. Dark grey. Fine
3 24
1 10
2 9
1 3 3
Lahore.
quality.
XVIII.
682
" Puttoo." Kid cloth. Plain -
9 22
0 27
3 15
Thibet.
XVIII.
683
" Toosee," or " Tose " Cloth. Grey 12 27
0 13 2 15
300
Baltistan.
mixture.
Obtained at
Kangra.
XVIII.
684
Plain dark grey. Used as a wrapper.
2 18
1 20
1 12
—
Lahore.
Narrow line of green silk in selvage.
XVIII.
(592
Plain, nmrsr brown woollen, uncoloured.
4 18
2 12
3 7i
1 6 0
Lahore.
Inferior quality. Two pieces sewn
together form a garment.
XVIII.
685
" Burruch." Camel's hair cloth. Used
—
—
Hyderabad,
for " Chogas,'' or dressing gowns, &c. ;
Scind.
XVIII.
686
" Burruch" or Camel's Hair Cloth.
8 13
0 13
1 14
090
Meshed.
Much worn by Europeans as well as
natives.
136
WOOLLEN GOODS.
SULUNG OR KERSEYMERE-LIKE CLOTHS.
In the next Table we have grouped certain fabrics which, unlike the Pultoo, are of a rather
harsh description, like our Kerseymere cloths. These are occasionally used for Chogas,
although not in such favour for that purpose as the soft, pleasant, Puttoo.
It would seem, however, that both are produced from the wool or hair of the same
animals. This arises partly from the process of manufacture, and partly from the quality
of the hair which varies according to the age as well as the part of the animal from which it
is taken.
Although, therefore, these Kerseymere-like cloths are probably chiefly produced from the
hair of the Shawl Goat, we are of opinion that just as the down of the Camel and Yak may be
used for the manufacture of the finest Puttoo, so may the less fine hair of the same animals
be employed to make the class of goods of which we are now speaking.*
No. of
Description.
Measurement.
Weight
of piece.
Cost.
Place of
Manufacture,
or where
obtained.
Vol.
Sample.
Length.
Width.
1
yds. ins.
yds. ins.
Ibs. oz.
& .?. ,!.
XVI.
624
" Kooroon"f or "Suiting" cloth. Light 20 0
0 161
3 2
* about
Sulung, between
grey colour, plain. Fine quality.
023
La.^a and China.
per yard.
XVI.
625
" Kooroon " or Sulung cloth. Reddish 20 0
0 16i
3 2
* about
Ditto.
chocolate colour. Fine quality.
023
per yard.
XVI.
626
" Kooroon " or " Sulung " cloth. Light
20 0
0 17
3 2
* u'uout
Ditto.
drab colour. Fine quality.
023
per yard.
XVI.
627
" Kooroon " or " Sulung " cloth. Dark-
20 0
0 161
3 2
* about
Ditto.
brown colour. Fine quality.
023
per yard.
XVIII.
679
Kerseymere material. Plain purple.
—
—
—
—
Cabool.
Used for cloaks or Chogas.
XVIII.
693
Kerseymere material ; plain uncoloured,
6 28
1 23
4 6
_
Bickaneer.
white. Good quality. Used for
making Loee or wrap.
XVI.
631
Woollen. Plain, uncoloured. The two
7 18 1 22
70 0 18 6
Dharwar. Sent
widths sewn together form one gar-
from Madras.
ment piece. Rather softer than 693,
but rough.
* This price was the cost per yard in Cashmere.
f These Kooroon cloths — called also Sulung — are stated to be made at a place called " Sulung, between Lassa and China," the exact
locality of which, however, we have been unable to determine. — Thousands of pieces of these cloths are said to be used in Turkistan. — Some
colours are not-fast ; -others are permanent.
Camel hair is very extensively used in Russia for the manufacture of various thick, coarse
fabrics, and is becoming known in the Bradford and Leicester trade for working up in a
variety of ways. That imported into this country is from the Levant, but the fine soft down
which is the produce of higher and colder latitudes is still comparatively unknown.
* An attempt made to distinguish, by means of the microscope, the hair employed in the manufacture of the
different fabrics referred to in this and the two following tables, has not been productive of results sufficiently
distinctive to permit of their being made use of for the purpose of detecting the " adulterations " alluded to in
the Punjab Report. The subject is one, however, to which we shall probably take occasion to recur.
CAMEL-WOOL. 137
The following remarks,* by Captain T. Hutton, on the wool of the Bactrian Camel will
be read with interest :
" The animal is so thickly clothed during winter with this wool, and its quality appears
to me so much superior to most of those specimens of wools obtained in Armenia and Koordistan
by Captain Conolly, that I should expect the article, if imported, to form a valuable commodity
in the European markets. The wool of this animal is as yet but little used, a small quantity
only being exported from Bokhara to Cabul, and I believe to Umritsur in the Punjab. The
great bulk of it is said to be sent at present to Russia, and manufactured into a kind of
broadcloth, called Salafixku, which is worn by soldiers."
Referring to certain specimens of the hair or wool of the Camel accompanying his note,
Captain Huttou continues :
" No. 1 is a sample of the wool taken from the sides and back of a full-grown male
Bactrian camel, in the winter clothing. It is so thickly disposed, that the skin of the animal
can with difficulty be discerned beneath it, even when the wool is turned back for that
purpose. In the spring, as the temperature grows milder, the whole of this wool detaches
itself from the skin, being pushed off in masses and flakes by the hair which springs up
beneath it, and which forms the summer clothing of the animal. It is at this season pulled
or cut off, and after being cleaned, is either manufactured into woollens of different texture
for home consumption, or exported in a raw state to Russia ; a small quantity also finds
its way to Cabul and the Punjab. It is produced abundantly both in Bokhara and Balk,
and the Steppes of Tartary. This wool is called " koork" or down. It appears to be
little inferior in fineness to that procured from some breeds of Shawl Goats, while it possesses
a decided advantage over them all, in being both of a much longer fibre, and far more easily
freed from the hair.
" No. 2 is a specimen of coarse thread spun from this wool by the hand, i.e., without
the aid of the wheel ; the wool is gathered into a mass, a small portion twisted into a thread
by the fingers, and then attached to a cross stick with a weight ; or to a stone which is kept
twirling round, while small portions of the wool are continually added. The threads thus
made are coarse, and liable to break from being too loosely twisted. This method is, however,
very generally practised, more especially in these districts ; the same also prevails in most
parts of the Himalaya, and is in use even in the provinces of India in the spinning of cotton
threads for common purposes.
" Woollens made from threads thus twisted are far more difficult to weave than those
manufactured from threads spun by the hand-wheel, as the looseness of the twist often causes
them to catch and break as the shuttle passes to and fro.
" No. 3 is a sample of the wool and hair taken from the fore-arm.
" No. 4 is taken from the under part of the neck and throat.
" The hairs in these samples are so long, that the trouble of cleaning the wool, would,
I should imagine, be much lessened, and probably the hair itself might prove an useful article
for making pencils and other brushes. These wools are all taken from an animal which
wintered at Candahar, so that the probability is that the staple was not so long as it would
have been had the camel remained in the more northern districts. There is also another
thing to be observed, which is, that the beast was not worked during the winter season, and
consequently the wool was uninjured by the friction of a load. It is both shorter and coarser
» Journal of the Asiatic Society of Bengal ;— 1842 ; Vol. IX., p. 1185.
138 WOOLLEN GOODS.
when the animal has been laden. No doubt, too, there may be as much difference between
the wools of different camels as between sheep ; but the samples sent may be deemed upon
the whole a fair selection, considering the limited range of my observation on the subject.
" No. 5 is a sample of wool taken from the humps of a male Bactrian camel that
had been much worked during winter.
" No. 6 is from the sides of the same animal.
" No. 7 from the neck and forearm.
" These are natural ringlets or bunches. The colour of these wools is generally that of
the specimens sent, but the long hair of the neck and forearm sometimes has a reddish or
ferruginous tinge.
" That which I have termed ' hair,' appears to be not very much, if at all, inferior to
some of the coarser wools of Europe, while it possesses a decided advantage in being more
than double the length of any sheep wool.
" In addition to the above I enclose a sample of a woollen cloth made from the soft wool
procurable from the young dromedary.
" This is called ' Buruk Shootur-i.' It is made by the Huzareehs of the Cabul neigh-
bourhood. It is manufactured in pieces of 15 to 18 inches wide, by 6 to 8 yards long,
and the price varies with the size from 8 to 30 rupees per piece. There are other
woollens, which are called ' hart ' and ' oormuk.'
" Oormuk forms part of the dress of the Turcoman people. It comes also from
Bokhara. This is chiefly purchased by the wealthy, and sells from fifty to one hundred
rupees per piece,
" Kart is somewhat similar to this. It comes from Bokhara and Turkistan, and is
made from the wool of the yearling dromedary."
Of the hair of the Yak, to which reference has been made, the chief manufacture, in
point of bulk, is a cloth used for making the black tents which constitute the only habita-
tion of the people of Ladakh and other districts in the centre of Asin. The same material
is also employed in making the bags which are used in the conveyance of goods of all
kinds.
CUMBLEES, OR BLANKETS, &c.
In the subjoined Table are included the particulars connected with the examples of the
fabrics made of sheep's wool, or of mixtures of sheep's wool with camel and horse-hair.
In grouping these, reference has been had to the quality of the different examples.
Most of these fabrics are from wool produced either in the south, or in the plains of
India, and they accordingly exhibit characteristics of the harsh hairy covering which suffices
for the protection of the animal in these warm latitudes.
WOOL.— STRIPED GOODS.
139
No. of
iptton.
Measurement.
Weight
of piece.
Cost.
of
Manufui'ture,
or W]UTC
obtaint'il.
Vol.
Sample.
Length.
Width.
yds. ins.
yds. ins.
Ibs. oz.
=e s. -i.
XVII.
651
Coai - end, three roughly
7 18
0 12
3 8
Thibet.
marked stripes in red and
Big
brown, 3\ indies apart.
XVII.
653
; z * i Coarse; plain, oncoloured
7 9
0 14
5 10
Ditto.
XVII.
= Sn
Coarse ; plain, uncoloured
2 25
1 26
5 0
—
( >odeypore.
XVII.
663
HtJF
Ss -
Coarse ; plain, uncoloured
3 16
2 9
9 14
—
Jeypore.
XVII.
659
Large coloured check, English
£H
pattern.
4 0
2 21
15 15
1 0 0
Delhi.
XVI.
634
Thick, coarse, uncoloured, used
—
—
—
Kangra.
" '-i
^ a
for trowseriugs.
XVII.
650
-^ L.
U H
Thick, coarse, uncoloured. Used
—
—
—
#
Kohat.
i- X
< ~
for coats and cloaks by the
-:
peasants of Kohat.
XVII.
654
g|
Thick, coarse, uncoloitred ; dark
'2 27
1 2
2 10
0 1 0
Bangalore. Sent
- -r
£ -
~
brown sheep's wool. Fringed
from Madras.
ends.
XVI.
638
Plain, uncoloured ; strong and
7 0
2 3
7 15
0113
Sattara.
H
•
M
rough.
XVI.
639
<
Plain, dark chocolate colour.
14 0
0 9
2 0
-
Thibet.
.. £
Used for making shawls for
_: -
- -
the Lamas or priests.
XVI.
640
K *
£ -
Black and white check pattern -
5 5
1 29
5 2
0 18 0
Delhi.
XVI.
641
HH .
^ a
Plain black, strong. Ends
3 14 1 13
2 15
060
Beejapoor.
^s
fringed.
XVI.
643
gs
Plain black. Fringed ends
7 22
2 6
8 8
Beckaneer, N.W.
B
i
India.
XVII. G45
Plain black. Fringed ends
3 6
1 8
3 4
0 10 0
Bellary. Sent
from Madras.
XVII. 655 a f Wool mixed with camels' hair
2 20
1 18
5 0
0 1 6
Bangalore.
^ Very stout and thick, similar
Obtained in
to No. 654 in texture.
Madras.
XVII.
657
Z -^ Wool and horsehair. Black, with
18 14
0 10
10 13
Kangra.
j a chequered stripe. Coarse
o and harsh texture. Used for
* (__ rugs.
Sufficient material for trowsers for about 2s. Grf.
WOOLLENS.— STRIPED.
The three specimens (Nos. 646, 647, and 656) included in the next Table afford
examples of patterns in vogue at Sikkim, as well as in Nepal and Thibet.
The group (44) at top of Plate VII.,* facing next page, shows the manner in which
the fabric is made up for wear in Sikkim — the similarity to the Scotch kilt is very obvious.
Figures 46 and 47 in the same Plate illustrate the way in which the Cumllee is
worn in the cold weather for the protection of the head and shoulders. Fig. 48 shows
a scanty woollen garment in the made-up form, and No. 43, with standing figure in group 49,
illustrate the wearing of a large wrapper and thick hooded cloak of felt, a material in
common use in many parts .of High Asia, to which reference has now to be made.
« This Plate, on account of our having, after its execution, chosen to deal first with the Cashmere Shawls,
is made to follow, instead of precede, PL VIII.
(3428.; x
140
WOOLLEN GOODS.
No. of
Description.
Measurement.
Weight
of Piece.
Cost.
Place of
Manufacture,
or where
obtained.
Vol.
Sample.
Length.
Width.
yds. ins.
yds. ins.
Ibs. oz.
£ s. d.
XVII.
646
Woollen. Green, with cross stripes in
—
—
—
Sikim. Obtained
blue, crimson, white, &c. Colours good.
from Thibet.
Pattern similar to Darjeeling produc-
tions.
XVII.
647
Woollen. Very strong. Green, with
19 0
0 91
6 14
—
Thibet.
1£ inch cross stripes in crimson, yel-
low, blue, and white, f inch apart.
Good colours. Worn by both sexes.
Darjeeling figure.
XVII.
656
Woollen. Coarse quality. Black, with
2 9
0 15
2 0
—
Kathmandoo.
f inch crimson, yellow, and white
stripes. Made and used by the Hill
tribes. Sewn together to form any
desired width.
FELTS.
Nos. 660, 661, and 662 in the books, the particulars of which are included in the next
and last Table in this division, are three specimens of Felt; the first being from Ladak,
and the other two from Jeypore and Rajpootana.
These felts are used for blankets and cloaks, and for making into leggings, &c.
Coloured wool is often used with great effect in the production of patterns upon the
surface of the material.
The following is the description of the manufacture of felts, or Namads, given by Major
H. B. Lumsden in his "Mission to Kandahar, I860."
" The mode of manufacture is apparently very simple, and the beauty and accuracy
of the patterns in the finer kinds is astonishing. A large mat, called chappar, formed
of the stems of the Guinea grass, bound together with thin cords and crushed, is the
principal instrument used in their production, and for the finer kinds a large knife is used
for mowing down the surface to an equal level and developing the clearness of the pattern.
The Un, which is the best sort of felt, consists entirely of sheep's wool, is usually a
mixture of wool with goat's and camel's hair picked and cleaned.* This is spread out
evenly on the ' chappar ' which is then rolled up with firm pressure with the feet (the
Peshwaries employ the back of the forearm in this process) unrolled and re-rolled from
the opposite end. This process of rolling backwards and forwards, which occupies a
considerable time, owing to the slow and continued to-and-fro action that accompanies the
rolling and unrolling and revolving is continued for four or five hours, by which time the
fibres have become firmly and intimately interwoven.f The felt is now taken up, washed
* He tells us in another part of the work that great attention has to be paid to having the wool thoroughly
carded and cleaned first.
•f In order to assist the felting-process we believe that hot water is employed in connexion with the operation
here described.
>
WOOLLENS A3STX) SICXITS.
FELTS.
141
with soap and water, dried, and again stretched on the c/tujtjt/tr, when coloured patches
of wool are arranged according to pattern on its surface, and the whole is then again
submitted to the rolling process for four or five hours, after which the felt is completed
and fit for use. The finer kinds are trimmed with a mowing-knife, which greatly
improves the appearance and brings out the distinctness of the colours. These felts are
commonly used as carpets, cushions, bedding, horse- clothing, &c., and by nomadcs as a
warm lining for their hair tents. They vary in price from one to two rupees to fifty or
sixty rupees per piece, according to pattern, size, and quality."
No. of
Measurement.
Place of
Description.
\\YiKht
of Piece.
Cost.
Manufacture,
or whence
Vol.
Sample.
Length.
Width.
procured.
yds. ins.
yds. ins.
Ibs. oz.
£ s. d.
XVII. 660 Felted material. Plain uncoloured body.
0 31
0 18
0 9
0 1 0
Ludak.
Kinl 1'or 6i indies ornamented with
coloured silks in diamond pattern.
formed by the needle. Used for leg-
gings, &c.
xvn.
661 Felted material, for cloak to cover the
head and body. Large circular figure in
1 21
2 21
3 13
—
Jeypore, Rajpoo-
tana.
coloured wool pressed into the surface
of the piece.*
XVII.
662
Felted material. Large circular figure
3 0
1 20
4 8
^__
Ditto.
formed by fragments of bright coloured
cloth pre.ssed into the surface of the
felt.*
* Not shown in all the samples.
This concludes our remarks on woollen fabrics used as articles of body clothing. But
the wool on the skin is also occasionally employed for that purpose. Figures 45 and 50,
PI. VII. , facing p. 140 — opposite — afford illustrations of sheep's skin used for this purpose
in Sind and elsewhere in North-western India.
x 2
142
CARPETS AND RTIGS.
CARPETS AND HUGS.
The class of manufactures to which we have now to refer are of interest not merely as
frequently affording examples of taste of the highest order, but likewise on account of the
probable commercial importance of some of them to India at a future period.
In India, as in all other countries where it is the custom of the inhabitants to sit on
the floor or ground, rugs or carpets, varying in size from less than a yard to many feet
square, are in common use amongst all classes, except, perhaps, the very poorest.
The manufacture is, therefore, one of very considerable extent ; but although the common
kinds are made in almost every district throughout the country, the production of those
of a superior description is confined to a comparatively small number of places. Amongst
these some, such as Ellore and Masulipatam (in Madras), Warungul (near Hydrabad
in the Deccan), Benares, Mirzapore, and Goruckpore, have long been favourably known,
and appear calculated to retain their position, whilst in other localities the attempt to
imitate European patterns is producing a degradation in the character of the productions
which, if persisted in, will prove fatal to the trade.
In place of the beauty and truthfulness of the native design, some of the carpets and
rugs lately imported into this country are simply hideous — pale colours in contrast with raw
yellows and blues — common European chintz patterns intermixed with the distorted remains
of fine native designs.
No. of
Description.
Measurement.
Weight
of Piece.
Cost.
Place of
Manufacture,
or whence
procured.
Vol.
Sample.
Length.
Width.
yds. ins.
yds. ins.
Ibs. oz.
£ s. d.
XI.
435
r Suttringee, Rug, blue stripes
1 32
0 32
2 4
030
Mangalore,
Madras.
XT.
436
Suttringee, Rug, blue stripes
5 13
2 20
15 3
020 Mangalore,
en
W
Madras.
XI.
437
a
o
Suttringee, Rug, blue and white. This
2 14
1 4
2 5
020 Palamcottah,
m
NH
is an example of the Sepoy regu-
Madras.
H ,
lation rug.
XL
438
& ^
03
Suttringee, blue and white -
2 16
'l 6i
2 14
020
Palamcottah,
fc
Madras.
XL
439
O
E
Suttringee, figured stripes in blue
2 30
1 24
8 11
—
Agra, N.W.P.
a
and red.
XI.
440
Suttringee, figured stripes in blue,
2 30
1 19
8 13
—
Agra, N.W.P.
red, and white.
XVIII.
699
{^Suttringee, coloured stripes -
2 30
1 24
—
—
Agra, N.W.P.
XI.
434
Sleeping rug, with looped pile,* of
2 8
1 24
6 2
—
Upper Assam.
bleached cotton. The rug from which
the samples have been cut was formed
by two pieces sewn together.
XVIII.
698
COTTON CAKPET ; short pile -
3 12
1 24
—
—
Wurrungul,
Deccan.
XVIII.
695
£ fDeep pile ... -
—
—
Ellore, Madras.
XVIII.
696
3 J Short pile - ---
2 16
1 18
—
—
Wurrungul,
11
Deccan.
XVIII.
697
Q 1
^ l_ Short close pile
—
—
—
—
Bokhara.
XVIII.
700
SILK, short pile
2 20
1 18
r
__
Wurrungul,
1
1
Deccan.
* There is also a woollen fatric called Pureepuz the pile of which is formed of loops.
CAB.PETS \N.> i;i < M;',
These errors are not those into which the native artist will fall, //' left /</
They are, in the majority of instances, forced upon him by his Kuropean emplover, who,
believing in the rose and daffodil patterns of his youth, has yet to acquire the power of
appreciating the higher and more refined art of the people amongst whom, for a time, his
lot has been cast.*
The carpets and rugs manufactured in India are of five kinds. The first is made
entirely of cotton, and is of a close, stiff texture, and smooth surface. The ordinary
name for these is Snf/ringi'c, and they may be said to be made here and there over the
whole country, their use being almost universal. Several examples of the material of
which these are made are given in the Books and referred to in the Table. They are
extremely durable. No great variety is attempted in the patterns, which are usually
modifications of blue and white stripes, with, occasionally, as in No. 1 Id, the introduction
of a figure.
In the second kind, the warp, like the last, is of cotton, but the woof is of wool. These
are striped and woven in the same way as the ordinary Suttringee, which is by far the
most common variety.
The Loom employed in weaving both these is horizontal, without either treadles or reed,
and the warp is stretched out the whole length and breadth of the piece intended to be
wrought. The woof is not thrown across with a shuttle, but is passed through by several
workmen, who bring the threads together with wooden combs in place of a reed. The
narrowest piece requires two men, and eight or ten are employed when the breadth is
great.
The third kind is made of cotton, like the first, but instead of presenting the plain
surface of the two last, a short thick-set pile of cotton is worked into it. This pile the
workmen introduce with great dexterity, and, after a time, produce the pattern, which is
frequently very handsome as well as intricate, without even looking at it.
The warp is placed vertically, and the various colours employed to form the pattern
hang down from bobbins between the warp and the workmen. The woof is passed by the
hand, and then driven home by the comb.
No. 698, Vol. XVIII, the last of the series, affords a specimen of the kind of carpet
here alluded to, while the chromo-lithograph on PI. X.— facing next page— attempts to
exhibit the pattern and colouring of a very beautiful carpet, manufactured at Warungul,
near Hyderabad, Deccau, and now in the India Museum.
In the fourth group we place carpets and rugs in which the pile is of wool. Three
examples of these are given in the books with the object of showing the fabric, it being,
of course, beyond our power to exhibit the pattern in this way.
These three examples have, moreover, been selected for us by Mr. Vincent Robinson for
the purpose of showing the kind of material most suited for this market, the pattern
according to his recommendation being left to the best native skill in Textiles of this sort
that can be found on the spot.
* A striking instance of this was afforded by a large carpet made in one of our Indian gaols of Berlin wool,
and sent to the International Exhibition of 1862. The pattern consisted of big roses and other flowers,
grotesquely distorted, and was, we believe, considered quite a chef tfieuvre by the gentleman who directed and
superintended its execution. At the termination of the Exhibition it sold for less than the original cost of
the wool.
144 CARPETS AND RUGS.
No. 695> Vol. XVIII., is an example of a pile which is too long, or, as it is called,
deep, to be recommended.
No. 696, from Warungul, a place which in point of quality of texture and of beauty of
pattern has furnished some of the best examples of this class of goods ever sent to this
country from India, is that which is considered suitable for imitation, and that which
probably could be practically obtained ; although No. 697, from Bokhara, is the example
nearest to perfection in the way of a carpet texture of the kind in question.
In the fifth and last division we place silk carpets, or those in which the pile is of
that expensive material.
No. 700, the last example given in the Books, affords a specimen of this beautiful, but
for all ordinary purposes, too costly production.
These silk carpets, however, frequently display a richness and beauty which it would be
difficult, if not impossible, to obtain from the use of any other textile substance, and may
possibly come into occasional use in the houses of the rich in this and other European
countries. In India they are often used by the great on State occasions.
In Plate XI. — following PL X. opposite— are given four illustrations of carpets and rugs
in the India Museum Collection, which we have considered it expedient to present simply
in outline, it being extremely difficult by any method short of the most careful hand-work
to do justice to the colouring.
The foregoing concludes our remarks on the Textile Manufactures of India proper.
N° 2.
l^t^^Aj^^^kLib,
N2 3.
N94-.
itfitJMu ijffl >jq i iv I? lOjukit'ti v ij
• •. < f TfT'\ '-'I
' < I.1" •.,!- I'l 'i.-j- , (. .i L ''i.rV.v 1 Mk'.A A
CARPETS & RUO-S.
COTTOIT
FABRICS i'KOM (KNTKAI, ASIA AND RUSSIA. 145
FABRICS VKOM CENTRAL ASIA AM) HUSSIA.
In Vol. XV. of the series of sample books we have included a number (67) of specimens
of fabrics which are stated to have been manufactured in various parts of what is
usually known as Central Asia, and also in Russia.
These are of very considerable interest as affording a key to some of the kinds of Textile
materials suited to the wants and tastes of the vast population inhabiting the countries to
the north and northwest of the Himalayas ; and these along with many other productions
are, probably, capable of being supplied from the Indian side by the exercise of British and
Native enterprise.
The specimens alluded to were originally purchased in the Shikarpore Bazaar, in Upper
Sind, and forwarded to Sir Henry Willock, when chairman of the Court of Directors
of the East India Company.
The samples, so far as we have been able to ascertain, were unaccompanied by any special
memorandum giving the particulars of the collection, so that we are unable to say to
whom we are indebted for the selection of the specimens.
The information furnished with the labels attached to the samples, giving the place of
manufacture, the name of the material, and the price at which it was bought in Shikarpore
has been transferred to the subjoined Table in which the various examples have been
grouped geographically and in the following order, viz., from Bokhara, Meshed, Herat,
Yezd, Balk, Kokan, and lastly Russia.
Although the information as given would imply that the samples were, in each case,
manufactured at the place mentioned, the statement must be taken with a certain amount
of reservation, as we believe that at least some of them are from China, while a few
others not inserted under the head of Russia are probably from that country.*
* The cotton twilled material called Naukrr, also Naka, in white, and also in blue, green, &c., is a favourite
throughout all parts of Turkistan. Eegarding this class of goods, Mookhtar Shah, of Cashmere, who, in 1852,
sent to Major George Macgregor, Deputy Commissioner of Lahore, certain samples brought by merchants from
Turkistan, writes, " Of the Naka cloths from Russia, and all parts of Turkistan, and through the country of
Khorassan, thousands of camel-loads are annually brought into Bokhara, and from thence they are taken to
other countries.
" They are named in the Turkish language, but it is unknown by what name they are called in Russia, but
in Khorassan and Cashmere they are called by the Turkish names. They are universally used, and are of
various colours. Ten or fifteen thousand pieces are brought to Cabool alone. They are made up at
Bokhara in dresses called Chogha,
"All the middling clashes and the, poor make use of them. Each piece makes not less than three Choghas.
The merchants make their purchases at Bokhara, and carry them to other countries, pricing their goods
according to the distance they have to travel."
The Book containing the samples, and the Report from which the above is au extract is in our possession.
A few of the examples differ from those referred to in the Tables, and may, together with the information
attached to them, prove of use for reference.
146
.FABRICS FROM CENTRAL ASIA AND RUSSIA.
Vol.
No.
Description.
Measurement.
Weight
of
Piece.
Cost.
Length.
Width.
FROM BOKHARA.
yds. ins. yds. ins.
Ibs. oz.
£ .v. d.
XV.
561
Uddrussa. Silk and cotton. Cotton weft. Striped, with
70 0 111
—
080
coloured silk in the warp. Dark and light green, crimson,
pink, and blue. Watered surface.
XV.
562 Silk. Light texture. Weft of blue, warp of crimson. A
0 25
—
—
2-inches wide border with 1 inch yellow centre, with
edges of blue, white, and crimson lines. Principal end
consists of a broad cross stripe of gold-coloured yellow
silk with central and marginal lines in purple and
crimson.
XV.
563
Known as Uddrussa in Bokhara, and E'ac/in in Sind.
7 9
0 12
—
0 11 0
Twilled material. Cotton weft, coloured silks in warp.
Large irregular pattern in crimson, yellow, white, and
green, with watered surface. Used for linings for coats.
XV.
564
Called Uddrussa in Bokhara, and Elacha in Sind. Silk
3 16
0 19£
—
0 13 0
and cotton. Twilled material. Cotton weft. Coloured
silks in warp. Large pattern, blue, white, crimson, yellow,
and green on a black ground. Surface watered. " Much
prized and sought after."
XV.
565
Vlukh. Silk and cotton. Cotton weft, coloured silks in
36 0 20i
—
0 !0 0
warp. Peculiar pattern in flashed colours, viz. white,
crimson, yellow, green, and purple on a blue ground.
Watered surface.
XV.
566
Goolbuddan. Silk, for trowserings. Purple, with narrow
0 32
0 29
0 2 10
stripe of white and crimson.
XV.
567
Silk. Light texture. A flashed pattern in yellow, white,
—
0 26
— —
purple, green, &c. on a crimson ground. Border (2 inches
wide), with 1 inch yellow centre stripe, with purple,
crimson, and white lined edges. Principal end (65 inches)
of crimson silk, with a broad weft stripe of yellow.
XV.
568 Bakisum and Elacha. Silk and cotton striped. Weft of
5 0
0 121
i 0 12 0
cotton, warp of silks in crimson, light blue, green, and
yellow stripes of various widths. Twilled material, with
watered surface. Obtainable at most of the marts of
North Western India.
XV.
569 Kootnee. A glazed cotton chintz. Stripes of various
3 18
0 2H
080
colours and widths. In pretty general use.
XV.
570 Glazed cotton. Stripes of various widths and colours, prin-
—
0 11 —
—
cipally crimson, green, and yellow.
XV.
571 Khoodbauf. A. Silk. Light texture. Small pattern of
10 0 29
046
angulated stripes in white silk on a figured green ground.
A. B. B. Similar material and pattern, the figured ground being
brown instead of green.
XV.
572 Cotton or chintz. Glazed. Stripes of a chequered pattern
— 0 20
—
—
A. in green, yellow, and red, with plain central stripe of
green in a yellow ground ; and a flashed red figure in
rows between the stripes.
572 Ditto. Glazed. Red ground, with an inch stripe eon-
B. sisting of a small figured centre enclosed within blue
i
stripes.
XV.
573 Nauker. Cotton. Plain green twilled material -
- 0 14
— —
XV.
574 Goolbuddan. Striped silk in various colours, blue, green,
0 32 0 25 — 0 3 11
yellow, purple, &c. Border a green stripe with white
and crimson line edges.
XV.
575
Kunawey. Plain yellow silk
0 30 0 27Jr —
027
XV.
576
Ditto. Shot silk. Crimson warp. Yellow weft
0 30
0 tf± 027
XV.
577
Ditto. Shot silk. Light blue weft. Crimson warp -
0 30
0 27i 027
XV.
578
Ditto. Plain green silk
0 30
0 27i — 027
XV.
579
Ditto. Shot silk. Pink warp. White weft -
0 30 0 27^ 027
XV.
580
Ditto. Shot silk. Green warp. Crimson weft
0 30 0 27^ : — 027
XV.
581 Ditto. Shot silk. Light blue warp. Yellow weft
0 30 0 27i 027
XV.
582 Ditto. Shot silk. Dark blue warp. Crimson weft -
0 30 0 27| ! 027
lAIMMCS FROM CENTRAL ASIA AND RUSSIA.
147
Vol.
No.
Description.
.Measurement.
Weight
at
I'irci'.
Cost
Length.
Width.
FROM MKSIIKD.
yds. ins.
yds. ins.
Ibs. oz.
£ .«. </.
XV.
583
Boolbool Clirsltinn. Silk gauze. Small figure. Crimson
—
0 28
—
—
weft, yellow warp.
XV.
584
Boolbool Chrsliiun. Silk gauze. White, with small
—
0 21
—
—
diamond-ahaped liirmv.
XV.
585
Boolbool Clirshum. Silk. Dark crimson weft. Green
0 16
056
warp. Green diamond-shaped figure, similar to that of
per yard
No. 584.
XV.
586
Bool/Mm/ Chmli it in. Silk. 1'ink warp. White weft,
—
0 24
—
056
forming diamond pattern similar to last example.
per yard
XV.
587
Flowered silk damask. Crimson ground, with blue flower
—
0 16
—
—
XV.
588
Silk. Figured stripes (small damask pattern) in blue,
—
0 20
—
—
green, orange, yellow, white, &c.
XV.
589
Flowered silk damask. Pink warp, flowered in weft with
—
0 18
—
—
yellow silk.
XV.
590
Flowered yellow silk damask. Shaded figure
—
0 18
—
—
XV.
591
Flowered crimson silk damask. Shaded ligure
—
0 18
—
—
XV.
592
Silk, with figured stripes. Bright yellow ground with
_
0 24
—
— _
stripes of crimson flowers, enclosed within faint lines of
blue.
XV.
593
Silk. Same pattern as last sample, but on a white ground
—
0 24
—
—
FROM HERAT.
XV.
594
Ubra or Xluilwal. Figured silk cloth. Pine and flower
__
0 25i
0 10 0
pattern in colours on green ground (Shawl pattern).
per yard
Used for Choyas and other garments.
XV.
595
Ditto, ditto, ditto. Pattern; flower and foliage
—
0 25£
_
0 10 0
scrolls on a dark blue ground.
per yard
XV.
596
Ditto, ditto, ditto. Scroll and flower striped pattern ;
0 25£
_
0 10 0
prevailing ground colour crimson.
per yard
XV.
597
Ditto, ditto, ditto. Angnlated stripes of pine and
0 25^
__
0 10 0
flower pattern in colours ; prevailing ground colours
per yard
green and crimson.
XV.
598
Ditto, ditto, ditto. A flowered pine pattern in
—
o 251
—
0 10 0
colours on crimson ground.
per yard
XV.
599
Alias. Satin sin-face, plain. Crimson silk warp, and red
0 29
__
—
cotton weft.
XV.
600
Atlas. Satin surface, plain. Black silk warp, and black
__
0 17£
_
_
cotton weft.
XV.
602
Atlas. Satin surface, plain. Yellow silk warp, and yellow
— —
0 28
—
—
cotton weft.
XV.
601
Naukrr. Brown cotton cloth - -
—
0 17
—
—
FROM YEZD.
XV.
603
Goolbuddaii. Silk piece goods, used for trowserings. A
_
0 18
_ _
___
small speckled yellow and blue stripe in a crimson ground.
FROM BALK.
XV.
604
Silk brocade. Bright yellow satin surface, with small
___
0 29
about
flowered crimson stripes in diagonal order.
040
per yard
XV.
605
Silk brocade. Yellow silk warp. Crimson weft. Satin
0 291
about
surface.
040
per yard
XV.
606
Boodul. Figured silk : a brilliant amber colour -
__
from
—
about
0 9
020
to
per yard
0 17
XV.
607
Boodul. Silk. Rich crimson, figure somewhat similar to
^_
from
,
about
last example.
0 9
020
to
per yard
0 17
XV.
608
Boodul. Flimsy silk. Deep blue, with small rectangular
—
0 17
— -
about
spots.
020
per yard
(3428.)
148
FABRICS FROM CENTRAL ASIA AND RUSSIA.
No. of
Description.
Measurement.
Weight
of Piece.
Cost.
Vol.
Sample.
Length.
Width.
yds. ins.
yds. ins.
Ibs. oz.
£. s. d.
XV.
609
Boodul. Silk. Blue, damask pattern
—
0 19
—
—
XV.
610
Silk. Large pattern in flashed colours, purple, yellow,
6 0
0 25
—
0 13 0
•white, crimson, &c. Similar in pattern to the Uddrussa
of Bokhara, and Elacha of Sind.
FKOM KOKAN.
XV.
611
Silk and cotton. A silk gauze with a little cotton. Striped
—
0 28
—
—
pattern.
XV.
612
Silk gauze. Crimson, striped pattern
—
0 28
—
—
XV.
613
Dasija. Silk gauze, yellow, with faint stripes of an
0 30
0 26
—
o i H
angulated pattern in white silk.
XV.
614
Dasija. Silk gauze, striped similarly to last example
0 30
0 26
—
0 1 li
FEOM EUSSIA ; OBTAINED IN BOKHARA.
XV.
615
Saujoo Gool Goshen. Blue figured silk, large flowered
—
0 30
—
—
damask pattern.
XV.
616
Satin damask. Large figure in yellow overrunning broad
0 31
0 20
—
070
stripes of purple, crimson, and green.
XV.
617
Satin damask. Large figure in yellow overrunning broad
0 31
0 20
—
070
stripes of light blue, crimson, and green.
XV.
618
Satin damask. Broad stripes of crimson and green, with
0 31
0 20
—
070
a large figure in yellow, alternating with narrow figured
stripes of various patterns and colours.
XV.
619
Satin damask. Broad stripes of green and crimson, with 031
0 20
—
070
figured designs in yellow silk.
XV.
620
Satin damask. Broad stripes of purple, orange, green, 0 31
0 20
—
070
crimson, and light blue, with large flowered figure in j
yellow running throughout.
XV.
621
Satin damask. Broad stripes of light blue, green, and
0 31
0 20
—
070
crimson, alternating with large figured and flowered
patterns in yellow silk.
XV.
622
Woollen. Printed in bright colours. Pattern, figured
—
0 33
—
—
stripes.
XV.
623
Naukrr. Cotton. A kind of twilled material, light blue
—
0 13
—
—
and white stripes. Stated to have been manufactured at
Ooroos.
APPENDIX.
Memorandum on the Distribution in Britain and India of the
Collections of Specimens of the Textile Manufactures of India.
(See Note to Introduction, p. 9.)
1. The Collections in question consist of twenty sets of eighteen volumes. Each
set contains seven hundred working samples of cotton, silk, and woollen textiles of
native manufacture, obtained from various places in India. The corresponding specimens
in the different sets bear the same number, and all are accompanied by details respecting
the length, breadth, and weight, &c., of the pieces of which they originally formed
a part.
2. This collection of samples affords a guide to a large class of manufactures suited to
the Indian market which has as yet received but little attention in this country ; and it
illustrates the principles which must be observed in the attempt to introduce designs
which will please the tastes of a people whose appreciation of art, as applied to Textile
decoration, is of a high order.
t
3. With reference to the disposal of the work, the following remarks are submitted : —
The original intention was that the whole of the twenty sets should be distributed in
this country. Further consideration, however, points to the expediency of placing a
certain number of them in India : 1st, because this course will facilitate those trade
operations between the two countries which it is the object of the work to promote and
encourage ; and 2ndly, because it is possible that the collection may be of direct use
to the Indian manufacturer. Whatever opinions may be entertained regarding the
expediency of fostering the mill-system in India, there can be no doubt as to the right
which the Indian manufacturer has to participate in a measure like the present, so
that he may at least be placed on an equal footing with the manufacturers of this
country.
4. It seems to be clearly for the advantage of India that every facility should
be given to the introduction, from this country, of such manufactures as can be
supplied to the people there more cheaply than by hand labour on the spot.
The many will thus be benefited, and the hardship which may possibly fall upon the
few will not be serious or long felt, since their labour will soon be diverted into new
and, in all probability, more profitable channels.
T 2
150 TEXTILE MANUFACTURES OP INDIA.
5. The chief advantage, however, which is likely to attend the distribution in India
of a certain number of the sets of Textile specimens will, it is believed, arise from
the opportunity which will thereby be afforded to the agent in India of directing the
attention of his correspondent here to the articles suited to the requirements of his
constituents. It will facilitate the giving of orders in a manner which will constitute
a safer trade operation than if the manufacturer were of his own accord to imitate
certain examples, and then send the goods to India on speculation. For instance,
the agent in India may call his Home Correspondent's attention to a certain number in
a certain volume, and ask him to send out something as like it as possible, or with
such alterations as he may see fit to suggest.
6. So also by the aid of this collection an agent in this country may easily order
from India such goods as he may think would suit this market. Still further, the
collection will show the manufacturer or merchant in one part of India the classes
of goods produced elsewhere in India, and in the way just described give him facilities
for making purchases.
7. Another advantage likely to accrue from the work in question and other similar
efforts to impart a practical knowledge of our Indian manufactures, is that we shall
be able to determine what productions can and what cannot be made most cheaply
by machinery. This is a point which it is important to decide. It will probably be
found that many of the more elaborate India patterns will have still to be produced
by hand.
S. It is, therefore, recommended that of the twenty sets of volumes, thirteen remain
in this country and that seven be sent to India.
9. In deciding what places in this country should be chosen, those seats of commerce
more immediately interested in Textile Manufactures naturally come first, and after
these come such places as possess Industrial Museums or other institutions calculated
to afford the necessary protection, facilities of access, &c.
10. The proposed distribution, as will be observed from the following list, will still leave
some important places unsupplied. These are, however, in almost every instance situated
near to one or other of the selected localities, and as the conditions attached to the gift
should secure free access to the work to all persons practically interested, the disadvan-
tage here alluded to will not prove serious.
11. The places referred to are Belfast; Bradford*; Dublin; Edinburgh*; Glasgow;
Halifax*; Huddersfield* ; Liverpool; Macclesfield* ; Manchester; Preston*; and Salford*
— making, with the one retained in this Department for permanent reference, thirteen
in all.
* The places marked with an asterisk are those for presentation to which sanction has already been
obtained through the application of their authorities.
MKMOKANDUM. 151
12. In India I have to recommend that a set be placed in each of the following places,
viz. : Calcutta, Madras, Bombay, Kurrachee, the North-western Provinces, the Punjab,
and lastly in Benir.
13. With respect to the three last-named divisions either Allahabad, Mirzapore, or
Agra in the North-western Provinces, Umritsur or Lahore in the Punjab, and Oomra-
wutte or Nagpore in Berar, will probably be found the most suitable, but it may be
left to the respective Governments of the divisions in question to decide on the exact
locality.
11. Regarding the conditions on which the gift should be presented, — the first should
be that due provision be made for its permanent protection, and that freedom of access
be afforded to all properly recommended and practically interested persons.
15. The sets should be assigned in trust to the chief commercial authorities in the
selected places, for the use not only of those connected with the district in which they
are deposited, but of non-residents also, who can show a practical interest in Textile
manufactures. The proposed plan of sending seven of the sets to India, diminishes the
number of commercial centres in this country which will receive a copy, and it therefore
becomes the more necessary that those which do get one should be required to make
it easy of access to agents, merchants, and manufacturers who reside in those which
do not.
16. This should apply also to the foreign manufacturer or agent who may wish to
consult the collection. The interests of India require that nothing should be done
to prevent her from receiving the benefits which may arise from competition between
different sources of supply, or to interfere with the extension to other countries of the
knowledge of the manufactures and products she is prepared to sell.
17. It is admitted to be for the mutual advantage of India and of this kingdom
that the most intimate commercial relations should exist between them. Nothing
will conduce to this more certainly than a full and correct knowledge of what
India can produce and what her people want. The means of acquiring this knowledge
these volumes furnish, so far at least as Textile Manufactures are concerned. The twenty
sets may be regarded as twenty Industrial or Trade Museums, placed here and there in the
two countries, and it is but a reasonable expectation that they will be extensively studied
and consulted by the manufacturers of both. The result of this will assuredly be an
increased interchange of commodities. The British manufacturer will learn what goods
are likely to prove saleable in India, and what he can produce more cheaply than the
native can ; while the British merchant may find among some of the delicate fabrics of
India, or of those which are elaborately decorated, articles which it will be profitable to
import, because they can be made more cheaply in the East. In addition to this, in
consequence of each set being as much as possible an exact counterpart of all the others,
these Museums will facilitate trade operations in the way already described, and will
enable merchants to give, and manufacturers to execute, orders more readily and
more accurately than they otherwise could.
152 TEXTILE MANUFACTURES OF INDIA.
18. In conclusion, I have now to suggest that the authorities in the selected
districts should, previously to the actual presentation of the work, undertake as
follows : —
1st. To provide for the permanent protection of the work by placing it in
the charge of a proper and responsible person, or persons, in a suitable
building.
2nd. To afford the requisite facilities for consulting the work ; subject, however,
to the condition that under no circumstances shall any of the volumes
be removed for purposes of exhibition or reference.
3rd. That access to the work be given to any person bearing an order to
that effect signed by the President, Vice- President, or Secretary of the
Society of Arts ; the Presidents, Vice-Presidents, or Secretaries of the
Chambers of Commerce ; the Chairman or Secretary of the Association of
Chambers of Commerce ; the President, Vice-President,or Secretary of the
Cotton Supply Association ; the Chairman, Vice-Chairman, or Secretary
of the Cotton Brokers Association ; the Chairman, Vice-Chairman, or
Secretary of the Liverpool East India and China Association ; by the
Presidents, Vice-Presidents, Chairmen, Vice-Chairmen, or Secretaries of
such other Associations for the promotion of Commerce as now exist, or
may hereafter be formed ; and by the Reporter on the Products of India.
(Signed) J. FORBES WATSON,
Reporter on the Products of India to the
Secretary of State for India in Council.
INDIA MUSEUM, July 1866.
NOTE. — The foregoing conditions having been agreed to by the Chambers of
Commerce of Belfast, Bradford, Glasgow, Halifax, Liverpool, and Manchester ; by the
Industrial Museum of Scotland in Edinburgh ; by the Industrial Museum of Ireland
in Dublin ; by the Huddersfield Mechanics' Institution ; by the Towns of Macclesfield
and Preston ; and by the Borough of Salford for the Royal Peel Park Museum, —
a . Set of the Volumes in question has been presented to each of these places, making,
in addition to the India Museum, attached to the Department of the Reporter on the
Products of India, thirteen places in this country where the Work can be consulted by
persons practically interested in the matter. With respect to the seven Sets for India :
These, under the instructions of the Secretary of State for India in Council, have been
forwarded for deposition in Calcutta, Madras, Bombay, and Kurrachee, and in such
places in the North- Western Provinces, in the Punjab, and in Berar, as the respective
Governments of the Divisions in question may decide upon. As soon as the exact
localities have been determined by the authorities in India, intimation thereof will be
made both in this country and in India.
153
LIST OF SAMPLES IN TVORK SHOWING THE TEXTILE MANUFACTURES OF INDIA.
VOL. 1.— TURBANS.
DESI
•
T onirtli
Wiiltli.
]>..;,.,, 4-
Whence pri"
BfOi
Name anil t'sf.
Material.
Quality, to.
1 rn t'.T
Place of Manufacture, &c.
yds. ins.
Mis. ms.
e *. a.
l
Turban
Cotton
Bleached. Common material
15 0
0 12
0 0
-
QdooMh
2
Ditto
TVf+n
,
ditto
6 18
0 12
1 0
0 12
0 15
" • •
Bhurtpore, 31 mill's from
Agra.
3
4
UlttO
Ditto
Ditto " *
Ditto
8 18
1 0
- - .
Ditto
5
Ditto
Ditto
Bleached. Thin texture
1G 0
1 3
0 1-1
•
Kanicra, Punjab.
6
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto. I'HM- texture
20 0
0 11
0 8
. . .
Cashmere.
7
Ditto -
Ditto
Ditto. Plain ends - -
24 0
0 12
n s;
.
Gya, 289 miles north-west
from Calcutta.
1
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto
23 18
0 13
1 2
- . .
Sind.
9
Ditto
Ditto
rlied. Coarse thick material -
3 18
0 9
0 11
-
Arraean.
10
Ditto
Ditto
1 !ish thread
22 0
0 13i
0 9
. . .
Benares.
11
Ditto
Ditto
Of Indian thrcnd; made same time as
No. lu.
22 0
0 135
0 13
.
Ditto.
12
Ditto
Ditto
iL Fine light texture
17 0
0 12
0 7
• - -
Hoshiarpore, Punjab.
13
Ditto
Ditto
Fine ....
33 0
0 10
0 9
. . .
Hyderabad, Deccan.
11
Ditto
Ditto
-
20 0
0 9
0 9
• • v
Ditto.
15
Ditto
Ditto
Unbleached
29 0
0 12}
0 7}
- - -
Chunderee.
16
Ditto
Ditto
Gauze. Good texture ...
21 0
0 9
0 6
048
Madras.
17
Ditto
Ditto -
Unbleached - - - -
21 0
0 101
0 10
. . .
Hyderabad, Deccan.
18
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto
33 0
0 13
0 9
. . .
Ditto.
19
Ditto
Ditto
Dyi-il. Two jrolil strijir-s extend down
in«l>al end for four yards.
19 18
0 13
-
•
Oodeypore, Eajpootana.
20
Ditto
Ditto
Colours laid on •
U 0
0 10
0 7
.
Bhurtpore, 34 miles west
of Agra.
21
Ditto
Ditto
Scarlet. Printed gold centre
14 18
0 7
0 7
-
Ditto.
22
Ditto
Ditto
Red dye. (inM strini's in centre and
rito throughout whole icnirth. Gold
spots on 4i yards of principal end.
13 0
0 17
0 12
• « «
Uoshiarpore, Punjab.
23
Ditto
Ditto
.
18 18
0 9
0 4
. .-
24
Ditto
Ditto
"Fine texture - ...
17 18
0 9
0 31
. . .
25
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto
18 18
0 Si
0 4
. . .
26
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto
18 18
0 9
0 4
. . .
Jeypoor, Eajpootana.
27
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto
24 0
0 11
0 8
. . .
28
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto
17 0
0 9
0 35
. . .
29
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto -
21 0
0 10
0 54
• - -.
30
Ditto
Ditto
Coarse ....
15 0
0 9
0 94
. - -
Sydapct, Madras.
31
Ditto
Ditto
Common material and pattern -
12 0
0 11
1 0
0 2 74
Pomady, Bought in Ba-
zaar, Madras.
32
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto - ...
16 18
0 9
0 ISi
030
Pomady, Madras.
33
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto
23 0
0 12
0-13
010 0
Madura, Madras.
34
Ditto
Ditto
.
16 18
0 10
0 154
0 3 14
Madras.
35
Ditto
Ditto
Square head covering. Gold thread
borders.
a 24
2 24
0 12
0 13 0
Madura, Madras.
36
Ditto
Cotton, with gold
thread.
The dye used is said to be remarkable
for its excellence. The gold thread
stripes extend 12 yards down centre of
principal end, ana 44 yards of opposite
end. 10 yards are entirely plain.
26 18
0 15
1 34
400
Ditto.
37
Ditto
Ditto
Gold stripes down principal end for 6
yards, the remainder plain.
23 0
0 12
0 13
100
Ditto.
38
Ditto
Silk and Cotton
.
20 IS
0 10
0 8}
Oil 0
Berhampore, Gangam,
Madras.
39
Ditto
Ditto
Cotton, with crimson silk ends. Head
covering, nearly square. Gold border
on each side.
3 18
1 9
1 11
2 15 3
Coimbatore, Madras.
40
Ditto
Cotton
Deep gold borders. Head covering,
nearly square.
1 22
1 16
0 64
...
Bhurtpore, near Agra.
• The description given in this and the following Tables is that which originally accompanied the samples, and it is in some instances imperfect. For correct
classification and details see text,
t The prices given in this and the following Tables represent the cost of the articles hi 1854. For farther remarks on this head see foot-note, p. 17.
154
VOL. 2.
GARMENTS FOR MEN.
DESCRIPTION.
Xo.
Length.
Width.
Weight.
Price.
Whence procuivil,
Place of Manufacture, &c.
Name and Use.
Material.
Quality, &c.
yds. ins.
yds. ins.
Ibs. ozs.
£ s. d.
u
Man's garment
Cotton ...
Gold flowered border and end. Favourite
8 21
1 19
1 0
3 12 0
Madura. Bought in Ma-
texture.
dras.
a
Ditto
Ditto -
Fine light texture. Two pieces woven, (
as usual, in one length, with a " fag " )
between to permit of their being rcaO
Long piece,
.» -n
Short piece,
> 1 13
1 3
1 10 0
Woopparaddy, Madras.
dily separated. v
3 4
)
18
Ditto
Muslin - -
.
2 0
2 0
0 6
Oil 0
Amee, Madras.
41
Ditto ...
Cotton
Silk in principal ends and borders. Two C
Long piece,
-\
pieces woven in one length, with a)
"fag" between to permit of their j
5 9
Short piece,
( l 9
1 8
080
Salem, Madras.
being readily separated.
3 9
)
1 •>
Ditto
Ditto -
Common texture. Two pieces woven in (
Long piece,
~\
one length, with "fag" between toj
permit of then- being readily scpa-y
5 18
Short piece,
£ 1 10
1 9
030
Gangam, Madras.
rated. V
3 4
J
'.out; piece.
^
46
Ditto
Ditto . - -
Two pieces woven in one length, with f
"fag" between to permit of their be--<
ing readily separated. (^
5 20
Short piece,
2 27
jl 2
1 4
026
Gangam. Bought in Ma-
dras.
r
Long piece,
X
-17
Ditto
Ditto -
Gauze texture. Ditto • ditto -<
5 4
Short piece,
2 27
r 6
0 14
023
Nagang. Bought in Ma-
dras.
48
Boy's garment
Ditto -
Borders of different colours, silk in end
1 34
0 27
0 2-fa
014
Congevcram, Madras.
Bought in Madras.
49
Han's garment
Ditto -
Two pieces woven in one length, with (
" fag " between to permit of their be- -s
ing readily separated. (^
Long piece,
3 I)
Short piece,
2 27
V 1 18
1 11
088
Woozzoor, Madras.
f
Long piece,
N
50
Ditto
3 !l
Short piece,
2 18
1
1 6
039
Nellore, Madras.
51
Ditto ...
Muslin ...
.
3 0
1 9
1 3
0 10 6
Arnee, Madras.
52
Ditto
Cotton ...
Coarse muslin •
7 27
1 9
0 13}
030
Nagang. Bought in Ma-
dras.
f
[.on™ piece
»
53
Ditto
Ditto - - -
Good texture. Two pieces woven in one I
length, with " fag " between to permit <
of their being readily separated. (
5 9
Short piece,
3 0
1
<• 1 9
1 11
080
Salem, Madras.
"
Ditto
Ditto •
Two pieces woven in one length, with (
" fai< " between to permit of their be- •<
ing readily separated. /
Long piece,
4 18
Short piece,
2 27
jl 0
1 2J
0 2 14
Congeveram. Bought in
Madras.
f
Long piece,
-\
55
Ditto
Ditto -
Ditto \
4 27
Short piece,
2 27
r *
1 6
056
Ditto.
f
Lous pipce,
•\
56
Ditto
Ditto -
Ditto \
5 27
Shortpiece,
2 18
r u
1 2
0 14 6
Rnjnlimundry. Bought in
Madras.
57
Ditto - - •
Ditto -
•
8 18
1 11
1 3
146
Madura. Bought in Ma-
dras.
5S
Ditto ...
Ditto '-
Badly dyed - ...
8 9
1 10
1 11
070
Masidipatam, Madras.
59
Ditto -
Ditto -
.
4 9
1 0
0 13
040}
Mylapore, Madras.
60
Ditto ...
Ditto -
.
2 9
1 9
0 10}
023
Karikal, Madras.
01
Ditto
Cotton and Silk
With yellow silk check
3 27
1 2
0 10
046
Mylapore, Madras.
02
Ditto
Cotton ...
.
6 0
1 4
1 5}
079
Coonathoor, Madras.
63
Ditto -
Ditto
....
3 27
1 3
0 10}
036
Ditto.
01
Pour woven together, with "fags" be-
tween.
single piece,
2 9
single piece
1 4
0 4
026
Karikal. Bought in Ma-
dras.
05
Ditto
Ditto - - -
.
3 18
1 2
1 1
030
Pulicat, Madras.
06
Ditto
Ditto -
.
3 £7
1 6
0 12
029
Mylapore. Bought in
Madras.
67
Ditto
Ditto - - -
.
4 9
1 2
0 14
080
Pulicat. Bought in Ma-
dras.
08
Ditto ...
Ditto -
.
3 27
1 2
1 3
053
Pulicat, Madras.
09
Ditto ...
Ditto
.
7 12
1 2
1 6
070
Mylapore, Madras.
70
Ditto
Ditto - - -
. .
S 9
1 0
1 9
076
Mylapore or St. Thomas,
Madras.
71
Ditto - •
Ditto -
. •
2 9
1 4
0 7}
020
Coonathoor, Madras.
72
Ditto
Ditto -
.
6 27
1 3
1 6
080
Ditto.
73
Ditto -
Ditto -
.
3 18
0 34
0 9
027}
Ditto.
74
Ditto
Ditto -
.
6 18
1 0
1 11
0 2 7i
Kurnool, Madras.
75
Ditto
Ditto -
.....
5 28
1 4
1 7
033
Gangam, Madras.
73
Ditto
Ditto - - -
.
3 0
1 3
0 8}
013
Cundapoora, N. Canara.
77
Ditto
Ditto -
Unbleached thread -
8 9
1 6
1 10
024}
Vencatagorry, Madras.
73
Ditto
Ditto -
.
2 18
0 27
0 7
010
Mangalore S. Canara.
79
Boy's garment
Ditto -
Very common ....
1 3
0 19
0 2
. . .
Biekul, N. Canara.
80
Man's garment
Ditto -
.
5 9
1 0
3 1
-
Coimbatore, Madras.
155
VOL. 3.
GAUM K NTS FOR MEN, fto.
No.
DESi inn lux.
Width.
Weight.
Pita
Whence procured,
Place of Manufacture \. .
•rial.
Quali
-1
•arment or " Loongec *
.
ill half widths with pjld lace
boril> .iili.'; l\vo of these
widths b." ; her form the
conn
vils. ins.
yds. ins.
Ills. o/s.
0 141
£ s. a.
Hhawulporc.
82
Ditto
Dilto - - -
This, unlike the previous one, U woven
in one piivc, with a border on each
side, same as in pattern.
3 10
1 16
1 4J
.
.Ihehmi, Punjab.
83
Ditto
Ditto -
With silver thread introduced iu ends -
6 21
1 14
1 1
.
Kawul Piiidec.
M
, - .
Ditto
Woven in half widths with pold laee :unl
coloured silk border on one tide; the
two widths sown together form the
Complete scarf.
i ;i
9ini:l<! J'ieot
u IN;
0 9$
•
Bhawulpore.
85
Ditto
Ditto
Gold Loco border and ends ...
3 34
1 18
1 12J
719 71
Lahore, Punjab.
88
Ditto
Cotton and silk -
Gold lace border and gold and silk ends
7 15
1 18
1 1
1 12 0
Jheluni, Punjab.
87
Ditto ....
Silk
Gold lace border and ends ...
3 18
1 14
i n
400
Goodaspore, Punjub.
S8
I'ieef to form a scarf or
" Loongee."
Ditto - - -
Gold thread in pattern, but no special
end or border.
5 15
0 31
1 3!
. . .
llhawulpore.
80
Man'sgannent or"Loongee"
Ditto
Gold border and ends
4 8
1 18
1 81
- - -
Ditto.
M
91
92
Ditto ....
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto
Silk and Cotton
Gold thread in ends - - . .
7 0
7 5
4 71
1 14
1 20
1 18
1 13}
1 14i
1 14
260
400
Buttala, Goodaspore.
Ditto.
Hyderabad, Sind.
Yellow silk border ....
93
Ditto
Ditto
Silk border and ends ....
4 0
1 20
2 0
. . .
Ditto.
94
Ditto ....
Ditto -
Silk in ends ....
6 20
1 6
1 1
0 16 0
Eaneepore, Sind.
95
Ditto
Cotton
Silk borders, and silk in ends
5 24
1 8
3 4
. . .
Kobat.
93
Ditto - - -
Ditto
Ditto - ...
4 0
1 17
1 5i
0 12 0
Leiah, Punjab.
97
Ditto
Ditto
With silk in ends -
10 0
1 1
1 12
. . .
Kohat.
98
Ditto ....
Ditto ...
With silk in borders and ends
3 0
1 8
1 8
0 11 6
Nurrapore, Sind.
99
Ditto
Ditto -
With silk in ends
3 0
1 2
1 1
. . .
Kohat, Punjab.
100
Tlitto - - - -
Ditto
With coloured border and ends
6 28
0 32
1 2
040
Shikarpore, Sind.
101
Ditto ....
Ditto -
Silk borders and silk in cuds
3 7
1 8
0 111
0 410
PindDadun Khan, Punjab.
102
Ditto
Ditto
Figured coloured borders and ends
3 4
1 20
3 C
047
Nurrapore, Sind.
103
Ditto
Ditto -
Coloured border and ends ...
4 17
1 0
1 15
. . .
Kohat.
104
Ditto
Ditto
Silk borders and silk in ends
3 22
1 16
1 3
0 11 0
Lahore, Punjab.
105
Ditto
Ditto -
Common pattern, coloured border, and
ends.
6 12
1 4
1 14
060
Shikarpore, Sind.
106
Man's garment or " Dhotee "
Ditto
Silk figured border ...
3 22
1 8
0 11J
050
Surat, Bombay.
107
Ditto
Ditto -
Silk border
4 6
1 2
0 131
040
Ditto.
108
Man's garment or " Loongee "
Ditto
Silk borders .....
2 3
1 6
0 8
040
Ditto.
1C9
110
111
Ditto ....
Ditto
Ditto ....
Ditto -
Ditto
Ditto -
Coloured borders - ...
2 9
4 8
2 30
1 3
1 5
1 18
0 01
0 121
1 7
010
0 1 71
0 7 31
Ditto.
Ditto.
Xurrapore, Sind.
Coloured borders and ends ...
112
Ditto
Ditto -
Ditto ....
2 32
1 10
1 0
080
Ditto.
115
Ditto - -
Ditto -
Ditto
2 27
1 14
1 7
040
Shikarpore, Sind.
114
Ditto ....
Ditto -
-
2 27
1 14
1 14
099
Nurrapore, Sind .
115
Ditto ....
Ditto -
.
2 33
1 22
2 1
015 41
Ditto.
116
Ditto ....
Ditto -
.
2 34
0 26
2 1
099
Ditto.
117
Ditto
Ditto - - -
-
4 18
1 22
1 4
046
Loodiana, Punjab.
113
Ditto ....
Ditto
.
2 13
1 4
1 12
050
Ranecpore, Sind.
119
Ditto ....
Ditto
Coloured ends - -
2 27
1 20
1 5
012 0
Ditto.
120
Ditto •
Ditto - -
-
3 12
1 10
2 21
036
Shikarpore, Sinn.
(3428.)
156
VOL. 4.
GARMENTS FOE MEN, &c.
No.
DESCBIPTION.
Length.
Width.
Weight.
Price.
Whence prcn
Place of Manufacture, &c.
Name and Use.
Material.
Quality, &c.
yds. ins.
yds. ins.
Ibs. ozs.
£ t. d.
121
Man's garment ...
Cotton
-
8 lli
1 10
1 131
020
Shikarpore, Sind.
122
Ditto
Ditto
Coloured borders and ends
2 27
1 4
1 4
0 1 14
Ditto.
123
Man's garment, " Dhotee,"
Ditto - - -
Ditto
4 21
1 1
0 12S
026
Calcutta.
124,
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto
3 30
0 34
0 125
016
Surat, Bombay.
125
" Kass " or scarf, man's gar-
ment.
Ditto -
-
3 0
1 18
1 5
- - -
Sylhet.
126
Ditto
Ditto
.
2 18
1 9
1 3
. . .
Cachar.
127
Ditto
Ditto - - -
Pink striped borders and ends
8 0
1 2
1 14
020
Shikarpore, Sind.
128
Used as a waist cloth,
"Dhotee."
Muslin -
Pine pattern across each end
3 0
1 0
0 61
. . .
Kathamandoo, Nepal.
129
" Kass " or scarf, man's gar-
ment.
Cotton
-
4 30
1 8
1 0
060
Shikarpore, Bind.
130
Ditto - - - -
Ditto
Pattern printed on red ground
2 3
1 C
0 44
010
Surat, Bombay.
131
" Soosee," material used for
for trousers for both sexes.
Silk
.
6 17
0 28
0 12
0 13 10J
Deyra Tshmail Khan,
Punjab.
132
Ditto
Cotton -
-
2 32
0 18
0 6}
030
Shikarpore, Sind.
133
Ditto
Cotton
.
2 35
0 17
0 4
023
Surat, Bombay.
134
Ditto
Ditto
With silk border
9 18
0 21
1 2
0 10 0
Lahore, Punjab.
135
Ditto
Ditto -
-
2 30
0 18
0 4
020
Shikarpore, Sind.
136
Ditto
Ditto
•
7 31
0 21
0 14
020
Surat, Bombay.
137
Ditto
Ditto
Narrow coloured border
7 0
0 22
0 14
020
Ditto.
138
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto
16 29
0 20
1 5
050
Ditto.
139
Ditto
Ditto - -
.
2 34
0 18
0 54
020
Shikarpore, Sind.
140
Ditto
Ditto
•
3 3
0 18
0 6|
020
Surat, Bombay.
141
Ditto
Cotton and Silk
With border
5 22
0 21
0 12
040
Eutul Mudpore, Punjab.
142
Piece goods
Cotton
In imitation of English moleskin
9 20
0 26
5 6
0 12 104
Loodiana, Punjab.
143
Ditto, for pantaloons -
• Ditto
-
3 0
0 28
1 5
016
Ditto.
144
Ditto
Ditto
-
2 24
0 25
1 34
016
Ditto.
145
Ditto
Ditto
-
3 0
0 25
1 8
016
Ditto.
146
Ditto
Ditto - - -
-
7 0
0 27
1 10$
050
Ditto.
147
Ditto
Ditto
.
a o
0 26
1 2
016
Ditto.
148
Ditto
Ditto - - -
.
3 2
0 27
1 7i
030
Ditto.
149
Ditto
Ditto
.
3 0
0 25
o iii
020
Ditto.
150
Ditto
Ditto - - -
.
6 4
0 25
i 54
060
Ditto.
151
"Palempore" or bed corer
Ditto
Printed pattern
8 13
1 24
1 3}
. . .
Futtygurh, Bengal.
152
Ditto
Ditto - - -
Ditto
3 12
1 21
1 01
. . .
Ditto.
153
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto
3 12
1 26
0 154
. . .
Ditto.
154
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto
6 0
1 7
i 14
- - -
Ditto.
155
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto
3 9
1 24
1 1
. . .
Ditto.
156
Ditto
Ditto - - -
Ditto
4 21
1 18
1 4
040
Shikarpore, Sind.
157
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto
5 0
1 18
1 15
060
Ditto.
158
Ditto
Ditto -
Diaper pattern with pink borders and
ends.
4 32
1 18
1 15
0 15 0
Hoshyarpore, Punjab.
159
Ditto
Ditto
Blue borders and ends ...
4 7
1 13
2 8
- . .
Loodiana, Punjab.
160
Ditto
Ditto ...
- -
3 8
1 22
1 8
026
Hazara, Punjab.
157
VOL. 5.
GARMENTS FOR WOMKN.
No.
DEsciuri
Width.
Whani
Place of Manufactui
Name and Use.
Material.
Quality, Ac.
yds. ins.
ds. ins.
His. nns.
s: ... ,1.
181
Woman's Garment -
Silk and gold thread -
at Hi
below. Gold lllr.
for <
r iH'ink-
D silk.
8 32
1 7
4 10 0
bought ill
Iras.
L<g
Ditto
Cotton and silk
<>»>lil i i 'r 2 yards, the
i plain silk.
0 0
1 2
1 I!
150
IlilM.
1C3
.
Ditto
.
7 0
1 0
i r,
046
Madras.
1M
Ditto
Silk - - -
i >al end worked with gold •
8 18
1 12
1 15
3 10 4
ii pore iu Ganpun,
Madras.
105
Ditto
rottoii
ilk in principal end •
7 '-'7
1 2
i a
0120
Madras.
166
Ditto -
-
Ditto
6 18
1 0
1 0
n r, o
Sydapat, Madras.
167
Ditto
Ditto
little silk in principal end
0 27
1 2
i 5;
049
.Madras.
ua
Ditto
Ditto
\Vit II Ml'iv in Uini.TS ...
S I)
1 8
i 11
160
Gangam, Madras.
1G9
Ditto
Dilto
Silk in principal end. Borders two
7 9
1 2
1 13
076
Mylaporc. limiu'lit in
.Madras l!a/,aar.
170
Ditto
Ditto
Ditt<>. Wliiti- -triiii's in body of
i; yards in ]•
7 27
1 2
1 7
0 12 0
Nought in
Madras li:i/.;uir.
171
Ditto
Ditto -,
Silk in borders and end -
8 0
1 9
1 9
0 IS 0
Hangaloro. Bought iu
M:ulnis l!:i/.a:ir.
172
Ditto
Ditto
•s and ends. Gold in prin-
cipal cud.
7 27
1 5
1 71
1 1
Trichinopoly. Bought in
Madnis l!;i/;i:ir.
17.'!
Ditto
Ditto
With silk and gold in end
7 0
1 0
1 3
0 10 0
Condapore, S. Canara.
174
Ditto
Silk
With deep borders and ends
8 0
1 3
1 «
160
Tanjore, Madras.
175
Ditto
Ditto
1. Ornamental border and end -
S II
1 7
1 4
1 10 0
Combaconum, Madras.
176
Ditto -
Cotton
Silk in end .....
7 0
1 0
0 11
0 11 0
Madras.
177
Ditto
Ditto
Common material
7 27
1 3
1 7
050
Ventapollam. Bought in
-Madras.
178
Ditto
Ditto
Silk stripes in principal end
7 0
0 31
0 15
0 13 0
Combaconum. Bought in
Madras.
179
Ditto
Ditto
Silk in principal end. Stripes in body
of piece run about 4} yards, and then
•u*.
7 27
1 2
1 7
0 12 0
lure. Bought in
Madras.
180
Ditto
Ditto
-
8 9
1 6
2 0
. . .
Coimbatore, Madras.
1S1
Ditto
Ditto
Borders of different colours
7 9
1 4,
1 8
053
1'oiidii'lierry. Bought in
Madras.
182
Ditto
Ditto
Favourite teiture -
8 27
1 6
1 3
. . .
Arncc. Bought in Madras.
183
Ditto -
Ditto
Silk in principal end
8 0
1 4
1 8
056
Sydapat. Bought in
Madras.
18
Ditto
Ditto
Common material -
3 0
1 3
1 12
039
Ventapollam. Bought iu
Madras.
185
Ditto -
Ditto
Strong and durable; common pattern -
7 0
1 0
2 1
043
Force Arnce. Bought in
Madras.
186
Girl's Garment
Ditto
Common material ; favourite colour
S 18
0 27
0 10
013
Congevcram. Bought in
Madras.
187
Woman's Garment
Ditto
.
7 0
1 0
1 10
023
Bellary. Bought in
188
Ditto
Ditto
.
8 27
1 7
1 6}
030
Ooppaddy. Bought in
Madras.
189
Ditto
Muslin -
Narrow stripe of gold worked in end -
8 18
1 9
1 4
069
Ganioim. Bought in
Madras.
190
Ditto
Cotton
Light texture ....
7 M
1 4
1 3
041
Arnce. Bought in Madras.
191
Ditto -
Ditto
Common material
5 n
1 0
1 6
030
Vcuiapollam. Bought in
Madras.
192
Ditto
Muslin
.
a o
1 9
2 0
0 5 C
Ganiram. Bougho in
Madras.
193
Ditto -
Cotton -
Common material - ...
S 0
1 0
1 3
010
Coimbatore. Bought in
Madras.
191
Ditto
Ditto
Coarse --....
3 «
1 0
0 IS
016
Biekul, N. Canara.
195
Ditto
Ditto
Common material ...
6 0
1 0
1 7
019
Oniircvoram. Bought in
Madras.
196
Ditto
Ditto
Deep pine pattern in end - -
3 9
1 8
1 6
033
Arcot. Bought in Madras.
197
Ditto
Muslin -
Narrow stripes of gold in principal end
6 18
0 27
0 8
060
Madras.
198
Ditto
Cotton
Coarse
6 30
0 29
1 6
0 2 11
Cuddapah. Bought in
Madras.
199
Ditto
Ditto. Covering for
head and shoulders.
Glazed chintz -
2 9
1 14
0 12
.
Poonary. Bought in
Madras.
200
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto ...
2 9
1 14
0 IS
. . .
Ditto.
z 2
158
VOL. 6.
GAEMENTS FOR WOMEN.
No.
DESCRIPTION.
Lcnu'Ui.
Width.
Weight.
Price.
Whence procure],
Place of Manufacture, &e.
Name and Use.
Material.
Quality, &c.
yds. ins.
yds. ins.
Ibs. n/s.
£ s. d.
201
Employed for making up
into bodices or jackets
callrd "choices," woman's
garment.
Silk
With gold border
4 27
1 11
1 1
2 16 0
Sattara, Deccan.
202
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto
4 0
0 351
0 11
2 16 0
Ditto.
203
204
205
Ditto
Ditto
Woman's garment
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto
4 23
4 21
8 29
I 1
1 0
i 121
1 0
0 14i
1 41
400
400
3 10 0
Ditto.
Ditto.
Nagpore, Berar.
With wide borders and deep gold
flowered end.
206
Ditto
Silk and a little cotton
.
8 32
1 01
1 7
220
Ditto.
207
Ditto
Silk and cotton gauze
.
9 8
1 9
1 31
2 18 0
Ditto.
208
Ditto
Cotton and silk
.
4 28
0 34
0 8}
. . .
Benares.
209
Ditto
Silk and cotton
This sample, unlike the majority of such
articles of apparel, is without any
special ornament in the ends.
9 26
0 30
1 91
...
Ditto.
210
Ditto ...
Ditto
-
7 30
1 G
1 15
160
Belgaum, 42 miles N.W.
of Dharwar.
211
Ditto
Cotton with silk
.
7 32
1 5
1 131
0 11 0
Ditto.
212
Ditto
Silk
A little gold thread in principal end
9 16
1 6
2 0
380
Ditto.
213
Ditto
Cotton
Silk in borders and ends
8 17
1 8
2 3
100
Ditto.
214
Ditto
Cotton and silk
.
8 0
1 6
1 14
100
Ditto.
215
Ditto
Ditto
.
4 16
1 3
0 11
040
Surat, Bombay.
216
Ditto -
Cotton ...
Deep silk borders and ends
8 18
1 10
2 2
2 16 0
Eelgaum, 42 miles N. V.
of Dharwar.
217
Ditto
Ditto
Deep silk borders and silk in ends
8 18
1 10
2 5
0 16 0
Ditto.
218
Ditto
Silk
Gold thread in borders and ends
3 4i
1 15
0 9
018 0
Bombay.
219
Ditto
Silk and cotton
-
7 27
1 9
2 4
180
Belgaum, 42 miles N.W.
of Dharwar.
220
Ditto ...
Cotton
•
5 16
1 2
1 2
. . .
Gya, 289 miles N.W. of
Calcutta.
221
Ditto
Ditto
Borders of different colours, one side
being red, the other blue.
4 22
1 22
0 11
030
Calcutta.
222
Ditto
Ditto
Narrow stripe in principal end, pattern
inserted " crossways."
3 0
0 23
0 3
020
Ditto.
223
Ditto
Ditto
Narrow white stripe in both ends
2 32
0 26
0 51
020
Ditto.
224
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto
3 -22
0 29
0 6i
020
Ditto.
225
Ditto
Ditto
Pattern inserted "crossways," showing
full width and borders.
S 18
0 30
0 6
020
Ditto.
226
Ditto
Ditto
Pattern sample inserted crossways,
showing one border narrow and the
other broad.
3 IS
0 29
0 61
019
Ditto.
227
Ditto ...
Ditto
Narrow stripe in each end
4 27
1 3
0 11
030
Ditto.
228
Ditto
Ditto
.
4 32
1 2
0 12
030
Ditto.
229
Ditto
Ditto
Pattern sample inserted crossways. Nar-
row red stripe in principal end.
2 27
0 25
0
020
Ditto.
230
Ditto, for petticoat skirts
Ditto
The sample extended shows one half of
the whole length of piece, which when
complete is cut in two at the centre,
and joined at the sides toform a skirt.
The other half is similar to the one
shown.
2 16
• 0 23
0 61
Pegu.
231
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto
2 12
0 231
0 65
.
Ditto.
232
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto
2 8
0 22
0 61
. . .
Ditto.
233
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto
2 8
0 21
0 61
. . .
Ditto.
234
Ditto
Ditto
With embroidered silk borders. The
piece is cut at the half length, and
joined at sides to form skirt.
1 29
0 26
1 1
-
Sylhet.
235
Ditto
Ditto
One border embroidered with yellow,
the other with white silk. The piece
is cut across at centre and joined at
sides to form a skirt.
1 29
0 25
1 1
Ditto.
230
Ditto
Ditto
.
5 11
0 29
-
. . .
Kathamandoo, Nepal.
237
Ditto
Ditto
.
6 0
0 30
2 9
. . .
Ditto.
238
Ditto
Ditto
.
5 0
0 31
1 9
.
Ditto.
239
Ditto
Ditto
.
4 25
0 28
1 11
. . .
Ditto.
2tO
Ditto - .
Ditto
-
5 0
0 28
1 10
- - -
Ditto.
VOL. 7.
M I SLINS, PLAIN AND EMBROIDERED.
159
Ho,
DKSCBIFTIOX.
Width.
Weight.
Whence procured,
Place of Manufacture, &c.
Name anil I
rial.
Quality, ,vr.
MI
" \br.nvnn " or " ({tinning
yd*, ins.
M M
,M!S. ins.
1 0
Ibs. ozs
0 75
£ t. <!.
040
Dacca, Bengal.
242
"Circar All," for dresses, &c.
Ditto
Ditto. Fine quality
20 0
1 0
0 CJ
. . .
Ditto.
Ml
" Shiilinam" or "Evening
Dew," for dresses.
Ditto
Ditto. Fine material
19 14
0 34
0 GJ
340
Ditto.
ill
" Tanzeb," for dresses
Ditto
Ditto. Fine quality
21 6
1 0
0 121
500
Ditto.
" Xyansook," for necker-
eoleft
Ditto
Ditto. Good quality
19 18
1 7
1 2J
400
Ditto.
Ml
" Jnnele Khassa," for
dmses, &c.
Ditto
Ditto. Ditto -..
21 0
1 5
1 9}
520
Ditto.
M7
" Dooreea," for children's
dresses, 4c.
Ditto
Striped ....
13 14
0 28
0 10i
- . .
Gwalior.
US
" Dooreea," chiefly for
children's I!P
Ditto
Ditto
10 0
1 0
0 12S
. . .
Knduagore.
249
" Dooreali," ehiefly for
children's di
Ditto
Ditto. Fine ....
10 0
1 0
0 13j
1 4 0
Dacca, Bengal.
850
251
n
" Charkanu," for dri -
Ditto
" Phoolkary," for dresses, &c.
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto
Check. Good quality ...
9 26
9 29
13 13
0 35J
1 0
0 28
0 15
0 lOi
0 14}
100
100
Ditto.
Ditto.
Gwalior.
Stripes and Flowers - - -
253
254
2".
" Jaradanee," for dresses, &c.
" Jamdanee," for dresses, &c.
" Chikan work," for dresses
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto
Figured in the loom. Very fine quality
11 20
10 0
10 0
1 0
0 SI
0 34
0 13|
0 11
1 0}
3 18 0
318 0
400
Dacca, Bengal.
Ditto.
Ditto.
Embroidered in diagonal stripes of
flowers.
256
Ditto
Ditto
Embroidered flower pattern. Good
quality.
10 0
0 35
0 13J
318 0
Ditto.
H7
Ditto -
Ditto
Embroidered. Diagonal stripes and
flowers. A flnc example.
10 0
1 0
1 5
4 « 0
Ditto
258
Ditto
Ditto
Embroidered. Of fine quality
10 0
1 0
0 9i
3 18 0
Ditto.
259
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto. ditto
9 14
0 S3
0 11J
3 18 0
Ditto.
HI
" Bootee," for dresses
Ditto
Ditto, witli crimson spots
10 0
1 0
0 18}
1 10 0
Ditto.
tn
-
Gold cloth
Plain -...
2 31
0 24
0 5
1 16 0
Hyderabad, Deccan
M
.
Silver cloth
Ditto ....
2 32
0 23}
0 5}
- . .
Ditto.
263
-
Gold cloth
With red silk stripes
2 33
0 26}
0 5|
. . .
Ditto.
264
.
Silver cloth
Plain * ....
1 0
0 22}
0 1}
. . .
Ditto.
M
.
Gold cloth
With green silk stripes
2 0
0 25
0 4
A IK tut
1 16 0
Ditto.
266
207
M
269
• * » •
Silver cloth
Ditto
Gold cloth
Silver cloth
With crimson silk stripes
Plain ...
2 33
1 4
1 9
1 8
0 24
0 33}
0 28
0 31
0 5}
0 4J
0 5}
0 5J
. . .
Ditto.
Moorshedabad, Bengal.
Ditto.
Ditto.
Ditto
270
.
Gold cloth
With gold and beetle wing embroidery -
2 22
0 20
0 6J
. . .
Ibdm.
271
-
Muslin
Printed with gold flowers -
9 27
1 25
1 0
. . .
Jeypore.Eajpootanc states.
272
For small scarfs
Ditto
Printed with silver. Piece incomplete •
0 33
1 5
0 3
046
Hyderabad, Deccan.
273
-
Ditto
Ditto Ditto
0 33
1 7
0 3
046
Ditto.
274
For making women's bodices
Ditto
Worked in gold figures ...
1 4
1 0
0 3
.
Madras.
275
"Kincob"
Silk gauze and gold -
Diagonal stripes and flowers of gold on
a mauve ground.
4 20
0 34
2 4}
. . .
Benares.
.:•;
To make up into scarfs
Muslin ...
Embroidered. Diagonal stripes and
flowers in gold and beetle wing.
9 22
1 3
1 11J
- - -
Madras.
277
.
Ditto
Embroidered in gold, 4c. ...
1 29
1 13
0 12
. . .
Ditto.
27S
For scarfs and head cover-
ings.
Ditto
Embroidered in gold stars and flowers -
2 2
1 8
0 64
500
Ditto.
279
•
Ditto
Embroidered in gold, &c. Pine pattern.
Very rich.
3 7
1 12
0 8}
7 10 0
Ditto.
2SO
.
Ditto
Leaf pattern, embroidered in gold
3 3
1 S
0 »\
. . .
Ditto.
160
VOL. 8.
MUSLINS, CALICOES, AND OTHER PIECE GOODS.
No.
DESCKIPTIOIf.
Length.
Width.
Weight.
Price.
Wlic-nee procured,
Place of Manufacture, 4c.
Name and Use.
Material.
Quality, &c.
yds. ins.
yds. ins.
Ibs. ozs.
£ a. d.
281
" Dooreea "
Striped muslin
Unbleached. Coarse. Four pieces (:i
yards 22 inches each) woven in one
length and connected by a fag I'hthi
(Mills.
14 18
0 305
2 2
036
Nagporc, Berar.
ggj
"Charkana"
Muslin
Check pattern. Unbleached. Coarse.
Four pieces of 3 yards 22 inches each,
woven in one length and connected by
a fag. Plain ends.
14 18
0 241
2 OJ
036
Ditto.
283
"Dooreea
Ditto
Striped. Narrow gold stripe in end
14 0
0 305
0 10}
1 13 0
Chundaree.
281
"Chudder, a covering for
the; body.
Ditto
Plain. Fine quality. Narrow gold
stripe in end.
14 0
0 301
0 101
1 13 0
Ditto.
285
" Charkana " •
Ditto
Check pattern. Superior quality. Gold
stripe in end.
14 1
0 31i
0 lOi
1 13 0
Ditto.
2SC
-
Ditto
Plain
15 30
1 2
1 2J
043
Shahabad, Patna.
287
"Chunderkora"
Ditto
Bordered. Coarse
4 IS
1 4i
0 6
0 2 71
Calcutta.
288
For covering the head and
neck.
Ditto
Bordered
2 33
1 10
0 31
020
Ditto.
289
" Santipore dhootee "
Ditto
Very light. Coloured figured borders
with tussah silk worked therein.
5 32
1 9
0 5i
056
Santipore, Bengal.
290
Ditto
Ditto
Very light. Coloured borders and ends •
4 18
0 32
0 5J
056
Ditto.
291
Ditto
Ditto
Very light. Uncommon pattern. One
border orange and blue, the opposite
border crimson and blue.
5 20
1 10
0 6i
056
Ditto.
292
When ends and borders are
added, used for shawls
and scarfs.
Cotton and silk
Embroidered with silk flowers
4 9
0 331
0 10J
-
Dacca, Bengal.
293
For scarfs and dress
Ditto
"Moonga"silk. Embroidered
4 24
1 11
0 12J
. . .
Ditto.
294
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto and cotton. Striped
pattern.
4 16
1 0
0 8
-
Ditto.
295
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto and cotton, with pat-
tern embroidered in
Moonga silk.
4 17
0 33
0 131
-
Ditto.
296
-
Ditto
"Moonga" silk. Embroidered in co-
loured cotton.
4 121
0 331
0 Hi
-
Ditto.
297
"Gurrah" cloth
Cotton
Calico. 1st quality
12 18
0 28
2 12
040
Agra, N. W. Provinces.
298
" Guzzy " cloth
Ditto
Ditto. 2d
17 18
0 18
1 13
020
Ditto.
299
"Gurrah" cloth
Ditto
Ditto. 1st
16 18
0 31
3 12
030
Patna, Bengal.
300
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto
12 0
0 34
3 0
040
Agra, N. W. Provinces.
301
"Dhootee "cloth
Ditto ' -
Coarse calico - -
4 12
1 ' 0
1 4
-
Bhurtpore, Kajpootana
States.
302
-
Ditto
Coarse brown calico. Piece incomplete -
2 114
0 28
0 81
• - -
Benares.
303
"Gurrah cloth
Ditto
Calico. Unbleached. Cut sample only -
9 19
0 21
1 5}
.
Ditto.
304
.
Ditto
Calico. Coarse. A sample only -
2 14
1 0
0 12
. . .
Ditto.
305
For " sare'es " (women's gar-
ments).
Ditto
Coarse gauze, light fabric. A sample
only.
2 12
1 1
0 61
-
Ditto.
306
' Gurrah " cloth
Ditto
Coarse. A sample only
2 12
0 27
0 8|
-
Ditto.
307
Sailcloth
Ditto
Coloured stripes of orange, green, and
red, about one yard from principal
end. Sample only.
5 0
0 221
4 125
026
Cutch, Bombay.
308
.
Cotton piece goods •
Check, woven in colours. Sample only -
7 25
0 29
1 01
. . .
Benares.
309
.
Ditto
Design, ditto. ditto
8 0
1 1
1 101
.
Ditto.
310
.
Ditto
Print
5 281
1 1
1 4J
-
Futtygurh, N. W. Pro-
vinces.
311
.
Ditto
Ditto
5 30i
1 H
1 41
. . .
Ditto.
312
.
Ditto
Ditto
5 31J
1 111
1 51
. . .
Ditto.
313
.
Ditto
Woven in colours. Imitation of English
6 18
0 23
1 51
030
Broach, Bombay.
314
.
Ditto
Ditto (plaid). Ditto
12 0
0 221
2 lli
060
Ditto.
315
"Pcshgeer," for petticoats
of poorer classes.
Ditto
Print. Fabric of English thread
5 0
0 32
1 21
040
Shikarpore, Sind.
316
.
Ditto
Plaid, woven in colours. Twilled cotton
B 15
0 25
1 12
060
Loodiana, Punjab.
317
.
Ditto
Check. Bed on yellow ground
5 26
0 25
0 121
030
Ditto.
318
-
Ditto
Check or Plaid -
8 S3
0 26
1 1
030
Ditto.
319
-
Ditto
Print
5 26
1 11
1 51
- - -
Futtygurh, N. W. Pro-
vinces.
320
.
Ditto
Plain cloth dyed with indigo
8 6
0 34
3 11
036
Beejapoor, Deccan.
161
VOL. 9.
MUSLIN, SILK, AND OTHER PIECE GOODS.
No.
DESCRIPTION.
Length.
Width.
tt'lieniv procured,
Place of Manufacture, 4c.
Name and Use.
Material.
Quality, 4c.
yds. ins
His. o/s
£ >. d
321
"Sullah"
Muslin -
Plain. Pino quality
13 0
1 0
0 9
440
Cuddapah, Madras.
322
Ditto ....
Ditto
Ditto. Superfine quality
1.-, iv
1 13
0 13
12 5 0
Arnee, Madras.
" Dooroea Sullah " •
Ditto
Striped
1(1 IS
0 27
0 15
0 0 0
llvilcrabad, Dei
ItoiiKht in Madras.
324
.
Ditto
Ditto. Goodqualitv
14 0
1 4
1 4
0 15 0
Amoe, Madras.
325
"('h.irkhana Sullah" for
children's drosses.
Ditto
(•heck-
7 0
0 S3
1 4
0 5 10
Ditto.
tat
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto
7 0
0 34
1 1
0 5 10
Ditto.
H)
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto. Fine quality
10 0
1 4
0 9
146
Ditto.
328
Ditto
,
Ditto
13 0
1 2
1 14
080
Nellore, Madras.
329
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto. Finest quality
15 18
1 4
1 2
4 11 0
Arnee, Madras.
3,10
-
Ditto
lality. Pattern worked in loom -
15 0
1 0
180
Chicacolc, Madras.
331
.
Ditto
quality. Flower pattern loom
wrought.
16 0
0 31
1 3
0 14 0
Ditto.
3.12
-
Ditto
Coloured check ...
15 0
0 39
1 01
0 6 1}
Arnee, Madras.
.T!3
.
Ditto
Ditto
10 0
0 32
0 12J
0 10 0
Ditto.
334
.
Ditto
Ditto
15 0
1 2
1 Si
0 15 0
Ditto.
3.15
.
Ditto
Ditto
7 0
0 30
1 0
040
Chicacolc, Madras.
XV,
.
Ditto
Ditto
7 0
0 32
1 0
040
Ditto.
337
.
Ditto
Ditto
7 0
0 32
0 9
030
Arnee, Madras
338
.
Ditto
Ditto
7 18
0 37
0 10
030
Ditto.
339
.
Ditto
Ditto
7 0
0 32
0 15
040
Chicacole, Madras.
340
.
Ditto
Ditto
7 0
0 32
0 15J
040
Ditto.
341
.
Ditto
Ditto. Fine quality
15 0
1 2
1 5
0 15 0
Arnee, Madras.
Ml
.
Ditto
Ditto
15 0
0 30
1 3
060
Chicacole, Madras.
313
-
Ditto
Coloured stripes. Very light texture •
13 0
1 2
1 4}
.0 11 0
Nellore, Madras.
344
Scarf, worn by Hindoo
women.
Ditto
Printed
4 9
1 0
0 7
n l o
Trichinopoly, Madras.
345
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto - - -
4 18
1 0
0 7
040
Ditto.
346
Ditto -
Ditto
Ditto
4 18
1 0
0 7}
040
Ditto.
347
Ditto - - -
Ditto
Ditto
4 18
1 0
0 fti
040
Madras.
348
Ditto -
Ditto
Ditto
4 18
1 0
0 7i
(i r, n
Ditto.
349
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto
4 27
0 38
0 6
040
Ditto.
350
Ditto -
Ditto
Ditto
4 18
1 2
0 61
040
Cuddapali, Madras.
351
. •
Silk
Tartan
9 0
0 22
0 15
120
Tanjore, Madras.
352
.
Silk and cotton
•heck - ...
11 27
0 22
1 0
070
Ditto.
353
Worn by women and
children.
Ditto
Ditto
11 27
0 22
1 0
076
Ditto.
354
-
Silk - - -
Fine cross stripes
9 0
0 30
0 10
0 18 0
Ditto.
355
.
Silk and cotton
Striped
11 27
0 23
1 10
086
Ditto.
356
.
Ditto
Check
12 0
0 22
1 0
096
Ditto.
357
.
Cotton -
Dyed. Plain
6 9
0 25
0 101
030
Coonatoor, Madras.
358
-
Silk and cotton
Check - - -
11 27
0 22
1 0
090
Tanjore, Madras.
359
.
Cotton
laid. Imitation of English pattern -
6 0
21
0 14
040
*ulicat, Madras.
360
.
Ditto
Ditto
6 0
0 22
0 14
040
Jylapore, Madras.
162
VOL. 10.
COTTON PIECE GOODS, DYED AND PRINTED.
No.
DESCRIPTION.
Length
•Width.
Weight.
Price.
Whence procured,
1'kicr of Manufacture, &c.
Xamc and Use.
Material.
Quality, &c.
yds. ins.
yds. ins.
Ibs. ozs.
£ s. d.
Each,
Each,
Each,
Each,
361
Kerchief, worn on head and
Cotton
Half dye. Eight woven in a piece
0 35
0 33
0 2}
008
Coonathoor, Madras.
shoulders.
Each,
Each,
Each,
Each,
362 : Ditto
Ditto
Fast colours, ditto -
0 30
0 28
0 3J
0 0 71
Ditto.
Each,
Each,
Eacli,
Each,
363
Ditto
Ditto -
The glaze by a chank shell rubbed over
1 0
1 0
0 3
0 0 71
Ycntai>ollum, Madras.
the surface. Eight woven in a piece.
Each,
Each,
Each,
Each,
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto
1 0
1 0
0 3}
0 0 71
Ditto.
Each,
Each,
Each,
Each,
366
Ditto
Ditto -
Ditto
1 0
1 0
0 35
0 0 74
Ditto.
Each,
Each,
Each,
360
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto
1 0
1 0
0 81
0 1 11
Ditto.
367
Chintz, with an end for
Ditto -
Printed and glazed ...
3 0
1 0
0 12
016
Arcot, Madras.
covering the head and
shoulders.
308
Piece goods . - -
Ditto
Print
3 24,
1 5
0 15i
020
Masulipatam, Madras.
369
Ditto
Ditto -
Print ; coarse ....
5 26
1 1
1 5
039
Ditto.
370
Chintz -
Ditto
Printed and glazed; good pattern and
3 27
1 2
.
080
Ditto.
material.
371
•
Ditto
Printed, with end pattern
4 18
1 0
0 15
040
Madras.
372
For petticoats
Ditto
Print ....
7 18
1 0
1 12
0 3 11
Bcllary, Madras.
373
Piece goods
Ditto
Print ; good pattern
4 0
1 6
1 1
0 2 71
Ponnary, Madras.
374
Ditto, " chetee," chintz -
Ditto
Print j coarse fabric ...
7 0
0 30
1 7
020
Arcot, Madras.
375
Ditto ditto -
Ditto
Ditto ....
9 0
1 0
2 10
0 4 Is
Ponnary, Madras.
370
Ditto ditto -
Ditto
Ditto
3 18
1 6
0 14
0 2 li
Ditto.
377
Ditto ditto -
Ditto
Print
3 IS
1 8
0 11
020
Arcot, Madras.
378
Ditto ditto -
Ditto
Ditto
3 18
1 8
0 14
020
Ditto.
379
Piece goods • •
Ditto
Ditto (imperfectly printed)
3 IS
1 2
0 12
020
Ditto.
380
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto
4 18
1 4
1 3
0 3 11
Ponnary, Madras.
381
Ditto, " chetee," chintz -
Ditto
Ditto
3 IS
1 5
1 0
020
Arcot, Madras.
382
Piece goods -
Ditto
Ditto
3 18
1 0
0 12
020
Ditto.
3S3
Ditto, "chetee," chintz -
Ditto
Ditto
9 18
1 0
2 12
0 4 11
Ponnary, Madras.
3S4
Ditto ditto -
Ditto
Ditto
0 18
1 7
1 12
0 3 101
Ditto.
335
Piece goods ...
Ditto
Ditto -
7 0
0 19
1 9
033
Bcllary, Madras.
380
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto
4 0
1 6
1 1
0 2 71
Ponnary, Madras.
387
Ditto, " chetee," chintz -
Ditto -
Ditto
5 0
1 0
0 15
020
Sydapat, Madras.
388
Ditto ditto -
Ditto
Ditto
6 0
1 0
1 5
046
Masulipatam, Madras.
389
Piece goods -
Ditto
Ditto
5 18
1 6
1 8
0 3 41
Ponnary, Madras.
300
Ditto
Ditto
Dittg ; coarse
5 27
1 0
1 12
0 3 11
Masulipatam, Madras.
391
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto
6 0
1 0
1 12
0 3 11
Ditto.
392
Ditto, "chetee," chintz -
Ditto
Ditto
7 0
0 29
1 9
020
Arcot, Madras.
393
Ditto ditto -
Ditto -
Ditto
9 0
1 2
2 8
0 4 11
Ponnary, Madras.
391
Piece Goods
Ditto
Ditto
7 0
0 31
1 12
023
Ditto.
335
Ditto
Ditto -
Ditto ; coarse ....
9 0
1 0
2 10
0 4 11
Ditto.
390
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto
7 9
0 32
1 10
023
Arcot, Madras.
397
Ditto, "gudkacheet" for
Ditto
4 18
0 31
.
020
Agra, j\T.W. Provinces.
petticoats.
393
" Chetee," chintz for lining
Ditto
Print; coarse -
5 0
1 4
0 9
0 2 71
Arcot, Madras.
tents.
309
Ditto
Ditto - -
Ditto
5 0
1 4
1 3
0 2 11
Ditto.
400
Ditto -
Ditto
Ditto - -
5 0
1 4
1 7
0 2 71
Ditto.
103
VOL. 11.
COTTON PIECE GOODS, TOWKLI.IXC8, &c.
tfo
r.
Width.
Wright.
Whom
Xamo anil i
rial.
Quality. Ac.
Phuv i re, &c.
4I>1
Gown-piece •
Cotton
I'laicl pattern, imitation English -
yds. ins.
6 0
yds. ins.
Ibs. ozs.
0 13
£ ». <1.
0 3 10}
Mylaporr, Mudni*.
IM
Ditto
Ditto -
Ditto
5 27
0 21
0 13
030
<1 ulras.
Ml
.
Ditto -
.
11 21
1 3
n :, i;
Tanjore, Madras.
i'H
,
Ditto
.
6 0
0 31
0 12
050
lure, Madras.
405
Ditto -
Ditto
Check pattern ...
G 0
0 31
0 14
046
Ditto.
400
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto
6 20
0 28
0 11
020
Pulicat, Madras.
9
Ditto
Ditto -
Ditto
5 23
0 14
040
Mjlaporo, Madras.
408
Ditto
Ditto
-
G 13
o 2.-,
0 12,1
020
Coonatboor, Madras.
409
Ditto
Ditto -
Small check pattern ...
ti S
0 25
o 125
026
Ditto.
410
Ditto
Ditto -
-
7 G
0 20
0 12
020
Ditto.
HI
Ditto
Ditto
Check pattern
G 30
0 20
0 11
020
Ditto.
<U
413
Ditto -
Ditto ...
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto - .
G 0
6 26
0 28
0 2G
0 14
0 15
030
046
Pulicat, Madras.
Tcroomnlv Madras
ill
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto ....
7 0
0 26
0 16
039
Coonathoor, Madras.
411
Ditto ....
Ditto
Ditto, English pattern ...
6 9
0 18
1 0
030
Masulipatam, Madras.
41fl
.
Ditto -
Small check gingham
10 27
0 20
1 10
036
Cuddalore, Madras.
H7
-
Ditto
Ditto, good quality ....
6 0
0 27
1 10
000
Ditto.
41S
-
Ditto -
Striped gingham - - - -
10 0
0 20
2 2
030
Palamcottah, Madras.
419
Table napkins ...
Ditto -
Unbleached damask
0 21
0 21
.
Per dozen
070
Madras.
420
Ditto . - . -
Ditto -
Ditto ....
0 19
0 19
.
Per dozen
080
Cuddalore, Madras.
421
Ditto
Ditto -
Unbleached diaper
0 22
0 22
.
Per dozen
088
Ditto.
422
Towels - - - -
Ditto -
Unbleached huckaback
o :).-)
0 35
.
Per dozen
0 18 0
Ditto.
423
Ditto
Ditto
Bleached dungary ...
0 33
0 22
.
Per dozen
040
Ditto.
<M
Table napkins ...
Ditto -
Unbleached damask
0 30
0 29
.
Per dozen
0 13 0
Masulipatam, Madras.
42o
Towels -
Ditto -
Unbleached diaper
1 0
0 31
.
Per dozen
080
Chingleput, Madras.
12G
Table napkins ...
Ditto
Bleached diaper ...
0 17
0 17
.
Per dozen
023
Hasulipatam, Madras.
427
Towels -
Ditto
Unbleached dungary .
.0 32
0 31
.
Per dozen
040
Salem, Madras.
423
Table napkins ...
Ditto -
Unbleached damask ...
0 23
0 23
.
Per dozen
030
Broach, Bombay.
429
Towels
Ditto
Coarse unbleached huckaback
0 33
0 S3
.
Per dozen
023
Ditto.
4SO
Ditto (Hand)
Ditto -
(Like diaper) coloured borders
0 27
0 23
.
Per dozen
030
Goa, sent from Madras.
431
D'Oyleys ....
Ditto
In colours ...
0 13
0 13
-
Per dozen
090
Madras.
432
Ditto
Ditto
01 1
On
Per dozen
Cuddalor Mad
433
" Soojnee " or counterpane -
Ditto
Quilted ....
to
2 6
it>
1 10
2 4
083
080
Hyderabad, Deccan.
434
Rug for sleeping on -
Ditto -
Sewn together in centre ...
2 8
1 24
C 2
. . .
Upper Assam.
435
Rug " suttringcc " -
Ditto
-
1 32
0 32
2 4
030
Mangalorc, Madras.
436
Ditto
Ditto
-
5 13
2 20
15 3
020
Ditto.
i 7
Ditto
Ditto -
Sepoy regulation rug ...
2 14
1 4
2 5
020
Palaincottab, Madras.
433
Ditto
Ditto - -
-
2 10
1 fit
2 14
020
Ditto.
439
Ditto
Ditto
Very durable fabric - -
2 30
1 21
8 11
. . .
Agra, N. W. Provinces.
410
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto
2 SO
1 19
8 13
. . .
Ditto.
(3428.)
A A
164
VOL. 12.
SILK AND COTTON PIECE GOODS.
No.
DESCEIPTJOIT.
Length.
Width.
Weight.
Price.
Whence pro'
Place of Manufacture, &c.
Name and Use.
Material.
Quality, &c.
yds. ins.
yds. ins.
Ibs. ozs.
£ s. d.
'.ach piece,
Each piece,
ufich piece,
Per piece,
441
Jieco goods for making up
into "Cholecs" or close
111 t ing bodices for women.
Silk -
With gold stripes. The piece includes
material for six "choices," separated
by a " fag" woven between.
0 17
0 29
0 li
019
Tanjore, Madras.
442
Ditto
Ditto
With silver stripes. Six in a piece
0 17
0 29
0 li
019
Ditto.
443
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto. ditto
0 17
0 29
0 li
019
Ditto.
444
Ditto
Ditto and Cotton -
Coloured stripes. ditto
0 24
0 19
0 11
019
Trichinopoly, Madras.
44S
Ditto
Silk gauze
With gold flowers and borders
0 22
1 7
-
0 13 0
Hyderabad. Bought in
Madras.
410
'or petticoats
Cotton and silk gauze
.
7 0
0 23
0 13
014 0
Trichinopoly, Madras.
447
Ditto
Cotton and silk
-
11 15
0 23
0 14i
0 10 0
Tanjore, Madras.
448
Soosee" for trouserings -
Ditto
.
7 0
0 33
0 14
080
Trichinopoly, Madras
449
Soosee " for trouserings
Ditto
.
S 0
1 0
0 15
080
Syempettah, Madras.
and petticoats.
450
Ditto
Cotton
-
6 0
0 26
0 10
030
Ditto.
451
Ditto
Cotton and silk
.
7 0
0 33
0 12
080
Trichinopoly, Madras.
452
Soosee," used for trouser-
Silk and cotton
.
11 0
0 27
1 9
080
Ditto.
ings.
453
'Soosee," for iron
Cotton •
.
6 0
0 29
0 15
0 2 4i
Coonatoor, Madras.
and petticoats.
454
.
Ditto
Check. English pattern
8 0
0 32
2 5
053
Masulipatam, Madras.
455
456
Twill for trousering
Ditto •
Ditto
Twill
5 11
0 25
0 22
1 10
1 10
0 4 li
026
Cuddalore, Madras.
Ditto.
Ditto
Per dozen,
457
'ocket handkerchief
Ditto
Plain, deep borders
0 20
0 20
•
046
Nellore, Madras.
Per dozen,
458
Ditto
Ditto -
Ditto
0 20
0 20
-
080
Ditto.
459
'Chunderkana," muslin for
handkerchiefs.
Ditto - -{
Without borders ~>
Second sort of good quality - -5
S 0
1 2
0 15
0 18 0
Arnee, Madras.
460
Muslin ...
Ditto
Plain; similar to Dacca muslin in its
12 0
1 3
0 111
0 12 0
Hyderabad, Deccan.
softness of texture.
Bought in Madras.
(
let size.
1st size,
-J
Largest size,
461
Serchiefs - -
Ditto
Coloured. Coarse
0 23
•J.I size,
0 23
2d size,
"(
016
Cundapoor, S. Canara.
(
0 27
0 27
- ~J
Weight of
eight,
Trice of eight
462
Ditto
Ditto
Coloured borders -
0 29
0 29
1 1
046
Masulipatam, Madras.
463
Long cloth
Ditto
Fine quality. Made to order
33 0
1 0
4 14
900
Eajahmundry, Madras.
464
Long cloth. Watered " Is-
Ditto
Calico of good quality
11 24
1 0
2 4
160
Nellore, Madras.
rec."
465
Watered "Isree"
Ditto
Plain. Coarse
6 18
0 31
1 12
040
Tizagapatam, Madras.
466
' Punjum " cloth
Ditto
Calico. Coarse quality. " 22s."
10 9
1 4
2 5
070
Nellore, Madras.
467
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto. ditto " 20*."
18 18
1 2
4 14
0 18 0
Vizagapatam, Madras.
468
Canvas
Ditto
Bleached
12 0
0 30
5 0
070
Nellore, Madras.
469
" Soojney," used for sheeting
Ditto
Figured dimity, unbleached
3 0
1 17
1 14
063
Madras.
470
" Punjum " cloth
Ditto
Coarse. Unbleached (Incomplete piece)
35 0
1 0
-
096
Vizajrapatam, Madras.
471
" Dungary " cloth -
Ditto
Unbleached - - ditto
-
0 155
-
- - -
Salem, Madras.
472
Country canvas
Ditto
Ditto
19 0
0 23
10 11
096
Rajahmundry, Madras.
473
" Dungarv " cloth, used as
Ditto
-
16 0
0 23
6 10
060
Salem, Madras.
sailcloth.
474
Ditto
Ditto
Coarse
11 0
0 23
2 6
020
Ditto.
Of four,
Of four,
475
" Palempores," or bed covers
Ditto
Chintz, glazed. Four woven in one
1 12
1 12
1 7
0 14 0
Masulipatam, Madras.
piece.
476
Ditto
Ditto
Chintz, unglazed. Printed pine pattern
2 9
1 23
0 13
015
Paumodee, Madras.
ends. Sewn together in centre.
477
Ditto
Ditto
Chintzes, unglazed. Printed cotton
2 0
1 0
0 8
013
Masulipatam, Madras.
478
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto. Printed border.
2 14
1 14
0 13
020
Ditto.
Seam 14 inches from the edge.
47'
" Soojney," used as a coun-
Ditto
.
2 9
1 4
2 0
046
Kurnool, Madras.
terpane.
480
Ditto
Ditto
Coloured thread
2 9
1 4
2 0
046
Ditto.
VOL. i:?.
K1XCOBS, SATINS, AND SILKS.
105
No.
Width.
i
Xameand I
rial.
Quali
£ ». d.
i
181
;:ide up into
Silk
With gold tlower, -
r, (I
u 211
0 11
2 ir, it
Iras.
•182
Ditto
Satin
With stripes and l!n\vcrs of gold and
5 9
0 S4
0 IS
1 11 0
481
Ditto
,
With gold (lowers - -
t 27
0 24
II !1
; n n
Trie 1 1 iras.
4M
Ditto. IVed for IK'tti-
coots.
Silk -
Ditto ....
r. 0
ii ::7
0 11
2 10 0
Ditto.
483
Ditto
With flowon of white silk
5 11
0 31
1 8
- . .
Hyde; Dcccaii.
Bought in Madras.
IN
TOO"
silk surface,
cotton kick.
roidend in loom
5 9
1 10J
200
Ditto.
487
-
Ditto
5 0
0 SOi
1 7
200
Ditto,
488
Ditto
Ditto
i gold and silk -
4 18
o as
1 12
2 2 0
Trichinopoly, Madras.
188
•
Ditto
I'd in gold, with silk stripes
4 27
0 24
0 14
240
Ditto.
• i
Ditto
Ditto
-
G 0
0 28
1 5
. . .
bad, Deccan.
491 Ditto
-
Dotted with gold. Striped silk -
4 18
0 24
0 14
240
Taujore, Madras.
492
-
Ditto
Flowered stripe in silk ...
4 24
0 29
0 11
0 11 6
Ditto.
••;
Ditto
Ditto
d stripes -
6 15
1 0
1 101
0 16 0
Ditto.
4M
...
Ditto
!vd stripes -
6 SO
1 0
1 2
1 16 0
Hyderabad, Deccan.
Bought in Madras.
188
,
Ditto
.
6 9
0 33
1 7
0 10 0
Tanjore, Madras.
496
Ditto
Ditto
Coloured stripes and flowers
5 0
1 0
1 10
0 17 0
Trichinopoly, Madras.
497
Ditto
Ditto
-
R 0
0 31
1 4t
170
Hyderabad, Deccan.
498
Ditto
Ditto
Parti-coloured and figured stripes
5 0
1 0
1 5
0 17 0
Trichinopoly, Madras.
489
Ditto
Ditto
Flowered stripes - -
5 32
0 SOi
1 4
1 18 0
Hyderabad, Deccan.
500
Ditto
Ditto
Main. Pink
5 31
0 31
1 2
1 18 0
Ditto.
501
502
Ditto - - -
.
Ditto
Ditto
"ii. with zigzag cross stripes of a
lighter shade.
Plain purple - - •
C 0
3 20
0 32
0 34
1 3*
0 13
1 10 0
0 11 0
Ditto. Bought in
Madras.
Trichinopoly, Madras.
5<>3
Ditto
Ditto
M, white zigzag stripes across;
same pattern as No. 501.
6 9
0 33
1 9
0 17 0
Ditto.
504
Ditto
Ditto
Red, with yellow dotted cross stripe
5 SI
0 26
1 2
1 18 0
Hyderabad, Deccan.
505
Ditto
Ditto
Zigzag cross stripes, intersected by
\ negated stripes lengthwise.
6 14
0 34}
1 Itt
100
Tanjore, Madras.
SOB
Ditto
Ditto
Zigzag stripes in white, with red tinted
edges, on a puce ground.
4 27
0 35
1 0
0 17 0
Trichinopoly, Madras.
507
Ditto
Ditto
Plain green -
6 37
0 30i
i M
1 16 0
Hyderabad, Deccan.
808
Ditto
Ditto
Crimson, with narrow white stripes
one inch apart.
5 0
1 0
1 5
0 17 0
Trichinopoly, Madras.
509
Ditto
Ditto
Orange, with white stripes
6 15
1 0
2 7
0 IS 0
Tanjore, Madras.
510
Ditto
Ditto
Plain crimson ....
6 0
0 32
1 4
116 0
Hyderabad, Deccan.
511
Ditto
Ditto
Bright yellow and coloured stripes and
spots.
5 27
0 27
1 6
1 16 0
Ditto.
512
Ditto
Ditto
Pink flowered stripes -
5 33
0 30
1 1
1 15 0
Ditto. Bought in
Madras.
513
Ditto
Ditto
Broad coloured stripes on dark amber
ground.
6 U
1 0
1 0
0 14 0
Trichinopoly, Madras.
514
Ditto
Ditto
Plain red
4 22
0 31
0 lOt
1 18 0
Hyderabad, Deccan.
Bought in Madras.
515
Ditto
Ditto
Plain white ...
4 13
0 32i
0 15
190
Hyderabad, Deccan.
516
Used for trowserings
Silk
Figured stripes. Thin and light material
9 4
0 37
0 14
1 10 0
I'riehinopoly, Madras.
517
Ditto
Ditto
Plain and flowered (coloured) stripes -
8 27
0 35
1 2
220
Ditto.
S18
Used for bodices, petticoats,
and trowsorings.
Ditto
Gauze-like fabric. Green and yellow
dotted cross stripes.
11 0
0 33
0 141
200
Ditto.
519
Used for trowsering and
under garments.
Ditto
Gauze-like fabric, coloured stripes
9 0
0 34
0 12
0 17 0
Ditto.
520
Used for trowserings
Ditto
Gauze-like fabric. Amber and faint
white stri i>c.
9 6
0 34
0 111
>i 1:1 n
Tanjore, Madras.
A A 2
166
VOL. 14.
SILK PIECE GOODS.
No.
DESCRIPTION.
Length.
Width.
Weight.
Price.
Whence procured,
Place of Manufactui
Name and Use.
Material.
Quality, &e.
yds. ins.
yds. ins.
Ibs. ozs.
£ s. d.
521
Piece goods
Silk - - -
Plain, red ....
17 15
0 21J
2 9}
300
Lahore.
522
Djtto
Ditto -
Plain, purple shot with red
13 9
0 211
1 81
1 16 0
Ditto.
523
Ditto
Ditto
Plain, light green ...
15 31
0 201
2 1
300
Ditto.
521
Ditto
Ditto
Plain, red (shot) ....
24 0
0 201
2 8}
390
Ditto.
525
Ditto
Ditto
Crimson, with small green stripes
17 S3
0 21i
2 7
300
Ditto.
526
Ditto
Ditto -
Yellow, with red stripes - - -
15 0
0 22
2 3
460
Ditto.
527
Ditto
Ditto
Crimson, with white stripes
13 0
0 211
2 8
360
Ditto.
528
Ditto
Ditto -
Green, with red stripes - -
16 15
0 21
2 2i
300
Ditto.
529
Ditto
Ditto -
Crimson, with yellow stripes
15 26
0 21i
2 5
2 16 0
Ditto.
530
Ditto
Ditto
Puce, witli red stripes (shot)
16 IS
0 21
1 13}
260
Ditto.
531
Ditto
Ditto -
Purple, with yellow stripes (shot)
8 0
0 19
0 10i
126
Dera Ishmael Khan.
532
" Golabee Durreeaee "
Ditto
Red
6 11
0 13
0 4
0 10 6
Agra, N.W. Provinces.
533
"Sungee Charkhanah"
Ditto -
Coloured cheek ....
4 33
0 27
0 7}
1 10 0
Benares.
534
.
Ditto
Flowered and striped ...
5 32
0 281
0 151
. . .
Bhawulpore.
535
For dresses - -
Ditto
Purple check ....
15 0
1 0
1 101
. . .
Bhagulpore, Bengal.
536
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto, good quality
15 0
1 0
1 10
.
Berhampore.
537
.
Ditto
Coloured stripes ....
6 18
0 31}
0 111
. . .
Bhawulpore.
538
"Elaiche" - - -
Ditto -
Red, with small white stripes
19 11
0 19
1 5
1 14 0
Agra, N. W. Provinces.
539
" Durreeaee "
Ditto
Coloured stripes ....
14 14
0 11
0 CJ
' 0 10 6
Ditto.
540
"Yeolah" -
Ditto - - -
Plain pink, thin texture, extra wide
11 0
1 5
1 3
573
Ahmednugger, Bombay.
541
"Durreeaee" •
Ditto
Yellow, very narrow
39 18
0 111
1 OJ
1 9 81
Agra, N. W. Provinces.
542
-
Silk and Cotton
Small check -
10 18
0 28
1 6}
-
Ditto.
543
For garments for men and
women.
Silk
A peculiar fabric, woven with stripes
at centre and ends. To be cut in two,
and sewn together at sides to form a
garment.
8 28
0 241
1 H.
•
Pegu, Burmah.
544
Ditto
Ditto
For wear, cut in two and sewn together
at sides.
8 28
0 25J
1 2}
. . .
Ditto.
545
Ditto
Ditto -
Ditto
8 30
0 25
1 4
.
Ditto.
546
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto, with coloured stripes
8 26
0 27i
1 U
. . .
Ditto.
547
Ditto
Ditto -
White and green stripes
9 0
0 24
1 13i
. . .
Ditto.
548
"Laheuieenia" kerchiefs -
Ditto -
Black, with dull yellow figures and
spots, red dotted border.
1 11
1 21
0 5}
060
Surat, Bombay.
549
" Lahe " kerchiefs
Ditto
Black, with red tinted spots, red border
1 10
0 29
0 1}
060
Ditto.
550
Handkerchief
Ditto
Red, white spots. Black border, spotted
pattern.
0 311
0 30
0 2
030
Ditto.
551
Ditto "Printed Lahe"
Ditto - - -
Black, red figured pattern and spotted
border.
0 32
0 31
0 2
053
Ditto.
552
Gauze ...
Ditto -
With gold flowers
8 0
1 0
0 61
0 19 0
Trichinopoly, Madras.
553
Ditto ...
Ditto -
Ditto
8 0
0 34
0 61
0 19 0
Ditto.
554
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto ....
S 0
1 0
0 5}
0 10 0
Ditto.
555
Ditto, for Mosquito
curtains.
Ditto
-
11 0
0 31
0 5}
1 12 0
Bhagulpore, Bengal.
55G
" Tussur " -
Ditto - - -
Plain ....
10 18
1 1
1 15J
0 16 10t
Warungul, Hyderabad,
Deccan.
657
Ditto
Ditto -
Twilled, dyed -
11 0
0 2fl
1 71
0 13 0
Bhagulpore, Bengal.
558
Ditto ...
Ditto
Large check, dyed
9 18
0 251
1 4
0 13 0
Ditto.
559
Eria " Dookloe "
Ditto
Coarse ....
4 0
0 34
1 6
040
Cachar, Bengal.
580
Ditto, " Endi " used for
garments by both sexes.
Ditto -
-
3 2
1 4
1 4
. . .
Darjeeling.
167
VOL. i:>.
KAV.UK'S FROM (T.NTRAL ASIA AND RUSSIA.
No.
DE8Ci;!fT
Length.
Width.
Weight.
Price.
Whence procured,
Manufacture
Name and Use.
Material.
Quuli;
yds. ins.
yds. ins.
Ibs. ozs.
JE s. d.
861
"Uddrussa" ...
Silk and cotton
J stripes -
7 0
0 111
-
080->
Bokhara.
862
. .
^ilk -
Veil-in Imnlers anil ends
.
.
. .)
563
' 1'ddruss.i " and " lilacha,"
nd silk
(Full pattern shown in half piece)
7 9
0 12
-
0 11 0
Ditto,
561
Ditto
Ditto
(Cut cn>ss\\:iys to show full pattern) -
3 16
0 191
-
0 13 0
Ditto.
565
•Vlukh"
Ditto
one third of full width).
3 6
0 20}
.
0 10 0
Ditto.
full pattern.
about -\
BM
" Goolbuddan "
Silk -
Striped
0 32
0 29
•
0 2 10 I
Ditto.
867
For garments
Ditto
Bordcml pi - - -
.
0 20
-
- -J
about
about
56S
.
Silk and cotton
t'ol. Hired stripes. Full pattern in
8 0
0 12}
-
II 12 li
Ditto.
569
"Kootnee" -
Cotton chintz
iile.
<;la/eil. ( 'oliuircil st I'ipes. Full p:it tern
In pretly t-eneral Use.
3 18
0 21}
•
080")
Ditto ?
570
.
Cotton -
(ila/.eil. Coloured stripes. Cut cross-
-
0 11
•
. . .)
571
" Khoodbauf "
Silk - - -
ways.
Same pattern in two colours (A. B.)
1 0
0 29
-
0 4 0
Made at Bokhara. Ob-
tained in Sind.
572
•
Cotton chintz -
L Striped. (Two samples) (A. B.)
-
0 20
•
. . -s
Bokhara.
573
"Xaukcr" •
Cotton
Plain irr ...
-
0 14
-
. ./
674
" Goolbuddan "
Silk - •
Striped with border. Cut crossways to
exhibit full pattern.
0 32
0 25
•
0 3 11
Ditto.
575
876
" Kuuawey "
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto
Plain primrose colour - -) ,..,,.],
Plain cinnamon colour - -j
0 30
0 271
-
027}
Ditto.
m
878
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto
Plain red shot with blue O „„„,,
Plain green - - -j cacn
0 30
0 271
•
(1 2 71
Ditto.
579
980
Ditto
Dim,
Ditto
Ditto
Plain pink "- - -> ,
Plain green shot with red -5
0 SO
0 271
•
o 2 n
Ditto.
581
DU
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto
Plain green shot with yellow -~) ,
Plain 111 ue shot with red -i l
0 30
0 271
-
0 2 71
Ditto.
5S1
"BoolboolChrshum"
Ditto
Figured red and yellow
.
0 28
-
.
Meshed.
581
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto White
-
0 21
•
.
Ditto
.-,S5
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto Green shot with red and green
figure.
-
0 16
•
( about ")
•Josef-
Ditto.
586
Ditto - -
Ditto
Ditto Pink, white figure
.
0 21
-
(. per yard J
537
.
Ditto
Crimson ground, blue figure
.
0 16
-
.
Ditto.
58S
...
Ditto
Coloured and figured stripes
.
0 20
.
.
Ditto.
5S9
.
Ditto
Yellow ground, red liguro
.
0 18
•
.
Ditto.
590
591
" Musjoor " -
Ditto ...
Ditto
Ditto
Yellow, figured - -> h
Crimson, ditto - - -i
-
0 18
•
. . .
Ditto.
692
.
Silk rauze
Flowered stripes on yellow ground
-
0 24
•
. . .,
Ditto.
593
....
Ditto
Ditto on white ground
.
0 24
-
. .)
per yard
591
"Ubra" or "Shalwal," for
Silk cloth
Shawl pattern
.
0 251
-
0 10 0
Herat.
Chogas,&c. Shawl pattern.
per yard
595
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto
.
0 251
. .
0 10 0
Ditto.
per yard
590
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto
.
0 251
-
0 10 0
Ditto.
per yard
597
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto - - -
.
0 25}
.
0 10 0
Ditto.
per yard
59S
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto
.
0 25}
•
0 10 0
Ditto.
599
.
Cotton and silk
Plain red • - • -
-
0 29
-
.»
Ditto.
600
Ditto
Ditto
Plain black ...
-
0 171
•
. -J
601
"Naukrr" - -
Cotton
Plain brown - - -
-
0 17
-
. . ..
Ditto.
602
" Atlas " (Satin)
Silk face, cotton back
Plain yellow ...
•
0 28
•
. .J
603
"Goolbuddun"
Silk -
Narrow stripes on a deep red ground -
.
0 18
-
.
Yezd.
601
....
Ditto
Brocade. Crimson flower on yellow
_
0 29
.
( about ")
•JO 4 0 t
llalk.
ground.
(.'per yard J
605
. - .
Ditto
Ditto -
. .
0 29}
.
( about ")
^0 1 0 \
Ditto.
v, per yard )
606
607
"Boodul"
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto
Shaded figure, yellow \ Each piece ")
IMtto crimson $ varies from .)
-
(-09)
•5 to
I 0 17J
-
( about ^
SO 2 0 f
(. per yard )
Ditto.
( about *)
60S
Ditto
Ditto
Shaded figure. Deep blue. (Flimsy) -
-
0 17
-
•JO 2 0 L
Ditto.
C per yard (
609
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto. Light blue. (Harsh surface)
-
0 19
•
. . .)
610
....
Ditto
Figured. Peculiar design. Pattern
6 0
0 25
.
0 13 0
Ditto.
complete in sample.
611
....
Gauze, silk, and a
little cotton.
White. Striped in material -")
?• cach
.
0 28
m _
. .
Koknn.
612
.
Gauze -, silk only
Crimson, ditto - -)
613
"Dasija"
Silk gauze
White silk stripe on yellow")
ground - - •> cach
0 30
0 26
per picor
011}
Ditto.
611
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto on crimson ground.)
615
" Saujoo gool goshen "
Silk
Deep blue, shaded figure -
-
0 30
-
.
Bokhara.
616
...
Satin
Yellow figure on purple, crimson, and
0 31
0 20
.
070
Obtained in Bokhara.
green stripes.
.Manufactured in Russia.
617
....
Ditto
Yellow liu-mr on light blue, red, and
0 31
0 20
.
0 7 0
Ditto.
619
green stripes.
Oil
ft 7 ft "\
stripes.
ol
0
070|
Ditto.
619
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto on crimson and green stripes
0 31
0 20
-
o 7 o ;
620
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto on variegated stripes
0 31
0 20
-
0 7 0 •>
Ditto.
621
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto - • - -
0 31
0 20
.
010)
022
«2:i
"Naukir" - " - '-
Woollen
Cotton -
Striped and flowered in printed colours
Blue striped -
0 33
0 13
•
Obtained in Bokhara.
Manufactured at Ooroos
in Russia.
168
VOL. 1C.
WOOLLENS.
No.
DESCRIPTION.
Length.
Width.
Weight.
Price.
AVhonce procun'il,
Place of Manufacture, &c.
Name and Use.
Material.
Quality, &c.
624
" Kooroon " or Sulung "
cloth.
Woollen
Fine quality
yds. ins.
20 0
yds. ins.
0 16J
Ibs. ozs.
3 2
S, ». d.
Tcr yard.
023*
Sulung, between Lassa and
China.
C25
Ditto
Ditto -
Ditto
20 0
0 16i
3 2
023*
Ditto.
620
Ditto
Ditto -
Ditto
20 0
0 17
:i 2
023*
Ditto.
627
Ditto
Ditto -
Ditto
20- 0
0 101
2 3
023*
Ditto.
C2S
" Cummerbund " or "Ezar-
bund " (waistband).
Ditto
Deep ends generally -
6 12
0 30
1 11
. - -
Hyderabad, Siud.
629
Ditto
Ditto -
Narrow and coarse
5 0
0 10
1 1\
. . .
Beloochistan.
630
Ditto
Ditto -
Coarse, but strong in texture
6 33
0 12
1 7
. . .
Nepal.
631
"Cumblee" or blanket
Ditto -
Sewn together in centre to form one
7 18
1 22
7 0
0 18 6
Made at nharwar. Sent
from Madras.
632
"Cummerbund" (waistband)
Ditto -
.
5 18
0 91
1 0
- - -
Thibet.
633
Blanket, worn as a scarf by
men.
Ditto -
Fair quality. Indifferent colour -
3 3
0 12
2 9
- - -
Darjeeling.
634
For men*s trouserings
Ditto -
.
-
-
-
0 2 6t
Kangra, Punjab.
633
For clothing •
Ditto -
Coarse cloth
5 18
0 15
2 2
. . .
Ditto.
636
" Kulloo " (blanket) -
Ditto -
•
3 13
0 23
4 0
- - -
MadeatKooloo. Obtained
from Kangra, Punjab.
637
" Cumbleo " (blanket)
Ditto •
Bordered. Two sown together in centre
to form one.
3 0
1 14
2 4
030
Bangalore. Sent from
Madras.
638
" Kumblee " (blanket)
Ditto -
Strong. Coarse material
7 0
2 3
7 15
0 11 3
Sattara, Mahratta country
639
Used principally for making
shawls for the " lamas."
Ditto •
.
11 0
0 9
2 0
. . .
Made at Thibet. From
Darjeeling.
040
" Cumblee " or blanket
Ditto -
.
5 5
1 29
5 9
0 18 0
Delhi.
641
Ditto
Ditto - - -
Coarse, but strong. Ends fringed
3 U
1 13
2 15
060
Made at Beejapoor. Ob-
tained from Sattara.
642
Ditto S .
Ditto -
Coarse --•-.-
3 19
1 16
3 4
053
Ditto.
643
Ditto
Ditto - - -
Black. Fringed ends -
7 22
2 0
8 8
- - -
Beckaneer.
* The value here named is the price in Cashmere.
1 2s. W. is the price for material sufficient for one pair of trowsers.
VOL. 1 7.
169
N
DESCRIPTION.
Width.
Price.
Whence procured,
Place of Manufacture, 4c.
Name and Use.
Material.
Qualii
yds. ins.
£ 1. d.
6
" Cumblco " or blank
Woollen -
Coloured border, 00
S 0
1 14
2 5
il .". 71
M:I.!I ,-it Banenlore. Ob-
in Madras.
«43
,
Ditto •
•il<. White thread
3 6
1 8
3 4
0 10 0
M.ulr in Bcllary. From
run
Mmlnis.
610
T \olformakin loaks
Ditto •
C 1 i
From Sikiui Obtained
617
Ditto
Ditto -
1 >n in, vi TV strong
1'J 0
0 9i
6 14
. . .
Thibet.
ftlS
" Foorook " and " Puttoo " •
Ditto -
Superior quality
11 0
0 15
9 11
0 12 0
Prom Lassa, Thibet. Ob-
tained in Kangra.
C.l'.l
"Puttoo"
Ditto -
.
6 29
0 12
3 7
0 18 0
Ditto.
G50
i- making coats and
Ditto -
Very coarse* ....
.
.
.
. .
Kohat.
cloaks.
IV.l
Ditto -
Coarse material ....
7 18
0 12
.'i S
-
Thibet.
About
652
" Loongee " or scarf, used for
lKxly clothing during cold
Ditto -
Silk borders and ends. Sewn together
in centre to form one.
5 12
0 25
S 14
040
Hyderabad, Sind.
weather, also for bed covers
and saddle cloths.
633
For blankets
Ditto -
.
7 9
0 14
5 10
. . .
Thibet.
654
" Cumblce " or blanket
Ditto -
Coarse quality. Fringed ends -
2 27
1 2
2 10
010
From Bangalore. Obtained
in Madras.
655
Ditto
Ditto -
Mixed with camel hair. Fringed ends.
2 20
1 18
D 0
016
Ditto.
Coarse. Sewn together in centre
when complete.
656
Ditto
Ditto -
Coarse. Sewn together to form any
2 9
0 15
2 0
.
Kathmandoo, Nepal.
iti'Mredwidth.t
657
Used for rugs, 4c.
Wool and Horsehair -
Coarse
18 14
0 10
10 IS
. . .
Kangra, Punjab.
658
For blankets
Woollen
_
2 IS
1 26
5 0
- -
Odypore, Eajpootana
Stati-s.
659
Horsecloth -
Ditto
English pattern. Large dark check -
4 0
2 21
15 15
100
Delhi.
an
Felt material nsed for leg-
Ditto
. . _ •
0 SI
0 18
0 9
010
Ladak.
gings, &c.
661
Felted blanket or cloak to
cover the head and body.
Ditto
-
1 21
2 21
3 13
. . .
Jeypore, Rajpootana States,
662
Felt blanket- -
Ditto
Bough
3 0
1 20
4 8
. . .
Ditto.
663
For blankets
Ditto
Coarse .....
3 16
2 9
9 14
-
Ditto.
* Used by peasants of Kohat.
t Made and used by the Hill Tribes.
170
VOL. 18.
WOOLLENS, CASHMERE SHAWL CLOTHS, &c.
Xo.
DESCRIPTION.
Length.
Width.
Weight.
Price.
\Vlii'iicf jirocuri'd,
Place of Manufacture, ic.
Name and Use.
Material.
Quality, &c.
yds. ins.
yds. ins.
Ibs. ozs.
£ *. d.
604
665
668
"Jamewar/'caabmere sha\vl;
worn by both sexes,
Cashmere wool -
Ditto
Ditto
;.;i;nd pattern. Figured. Fine quality
Vim- pattern throughout
Pine pattern ...
3 14
3 9
3 0
1 19
1 15
1 6
2 8
2 2
2 7
700
Kangra, Punjab.
Cashmere.
Ditto.
Shawl cloth
607
Ditto, worn by both sexes
Ditto
Plain crimson. Very fine. Good colour
7 0
1 10
2 4
300
Loodiana, Punjab.
60S
Shawl cloth, chiefly used for
chogas.
Ditto
Plain black. First quality
4 10
0 19
0 12
. . .
Cashmere.
669
Shawl cloth ...
Ditto
Plain white. Very fine - - -
7 0
1 19
2 12
400
Loodiaua, Punjab.
670
Ditto, worn by both sexes
Ditto
Plain. First quality
5 0
0 28
1 11
2 15 0
Cashmere.
671
Ditto
Ditto - - -
Plain black. Second quality
5 0
0 26
1 0
- - -
Ditto.
672
Ditto ....
Ditto
Plain grey. Second quality
5 8
0 26
0 14J
300
Ditto.
673
Ditto
Ditto - • -
Plain green. Fine texture ...
6 20
1 6
0 15
3 10 0
Ditto.
674
Ditto
Ditto -
Plain purple. Fine texture
5 0
0 26
0 14
. i .
Ditto.
675
676
G77
Ditto
" Dooputtah " or scarf (in-
complete).
" Loongee " or scarf -
Ditto -
Ditto -
Ditto
Plain crimson. Second quality. Fine
colour.
Deep buff. Silver and silk fiirured border
sewn on. Broad figured stripe in gold
thread across end of si'art'.
Small red and yellow check. Figured
narrow border sewn on.
5 10
0 25
0 15
. . .
Ditto.
Ditto.
Ditto.
5 9
1 34
2 0
540
678
Shawl cloth
Woollen -
Plain red. Coarse -
6 21
0 27
1 7
. . .
Lahore, Punjab.
679
Cloth for chogas ...
Ditto
Plain purple
-
-
-
200*
Cabool.
630
681
"Kid cloth" "puttoo," a
wrapper.
Kid cloth " puttoo " or
wrapper.
Ditto -
Ditto
Plain white. Fine quality. Woven in
half width of 31} inches. Two pieces
sewn together in centre forms one
complete.
Plain brown. Fine quality.
4 29
3 2-1
1 27
1 10
4 1
2 9
340
133
Lahore.
Ditto.
682
Ditto
Ditto
Ditto
9 22
0 27
3 15
. . .
Thibet.
683
Kid cloth "toosce"or"tose"
cloth.
Ditto -
Plain grey
12 27
0 13
2 15
300
Baltistan, obtained at
Kangra.
6S4
685
Used as a wrapper
" Biirruch " cloth forchosas,
&c.
Ditto
Camel's hair
Ditto, sewn together in centre forms
a garment.
2 18
1 20
1 12
.
Lahore.
Hyderabad, Sind.
680
Ditto
Ditto ...
Plain brown -
8 13
0 13
1 14
090
Meshed.
687
688
" Dhoosa " or wrapper -
Ditto
Woollen -
Ditto -
Greyish white, with green, crimson, and
yellow striped silk border.
With striped silk borders. Woven in
two lengths with a fag between.
3 6
Single
3 4
1 9
length
1 17
1 2
l I2i
1 14 0
1 14 0
Lahore.
Ditto.
089
Ditto
Ditto
With red silk bnrdor. Woven in two
lengths with a fag between.
3 14
1 9
1 li
160
Ditto.
600
Ditto
Ditto
With red, white, and green silk borders
2 30
1 6
0 144
160
Ditto.
C91
Ditto
Ditto
With green, red, and yellow silk borders
3 5
1 12
1 5J
1 15 0
Ditto.
C92
Used as a wrapper
Ditto
Inferior quality. Two sewn together
form one.
4 18
2 12
3 75
160
Ditto.
693
"Loee " or wrapper
Ditto -
Good quality. White -
6 28
1 23
4 0
- - -
Beckaneer, N.W. India.
695
Carpet
Ditto
Deep pile . - - - -
-
-
-
. . .
Ellore, Madras.
696
Ditto
Ditto
Short pile
2 16
1 18
-
. . .
Wurrungul, Deccan.
C97
Ditto
Ditto
Short, close pile ...
•
-
-
. . .
Bokhara.
098
Suttringee or Rug -
Cotton -
Short pile
3 12
1 24
-
•. - -
Wurrungul, Deccan.
699
Ditto
Ditto
Coloured stripes -
2 30
1 24
-
- -
Agra, N. W. Provinces.
700
Carpet
Silk -
Short pile
2 20
1 18
-
-
Wurrungul, Deccan.
This is the price of a cloak made from this material. Worn by the higher classes of Northern India.
171
!'I.A( KS OK MANTFArrrKK Oil MARTS FROM WHICH Till: Sl'KCI.MKNS WKKK OBTAIXKI).
XAMK OF i
X.l v
Disi
l.\ 1 1-
ll in;.
0 /
O 1
o /
o /
kgn
Agra
X.W. Prou
27 HI
Kathamandoo •
Xepaul
27 12
s.-, 1 S
r,-r
, r
.ay
19 6
71 Hi
Kohat.
-
-
.13 32
71 27
•t
Xorlh \rcot
Madras -
Kolian
—
—
—
—
Arnce
Arracan
Ditto
Arracan - -j
.
r Lieut. •(
l,en-<
(
BrlwMn
Is 0
and
21 33
7:i 2!
'.12 ID
and
Kooloo or Kuhi -
Kurnool
Kurnool
Madras
:Ti "'•!»
15 50
.
and
7s r,
(
90 40
l.:l,lak -
Ladak
Thilxjt
Ass-.v.n
i
Ditto • •%
to
2s 17
to
97 1
I
35 0
.
Turkestan
:lti 4S
67 3
Lahore
Lahore
Punjab
31 36
71 21
l.assa
...
Thibet
'.'1 l!
Baltistan -
...
Thibet - -(
to
75 0
to
I.eiah
I.eiah
Punjab
30 57
71 4
(.
36 0
77 II
Loodiana
-
-
:«> 55
75 51
Bangalore
Mysore
Xative state
12 .-s
77 :;s
Madras
.
Madras
13 5
Ml 21
-
-
Hillo
2S II
7.'! 22
•.ira
Madura
Ditto
9 65
.78 10
i -ipoor
-
:ay
16 50
75 48
Mangalorc •
South Canara
Ditto
74 54
Beltraum
Belgaum -
Ditto -
15 50
74 36
Mpalam
Masulipatam
Ditto
16 10
81 13
liellary
Bellary
Madras
15 8
76 59
Meshed
...
Persia
36 17
Bcloochistan
.(
24 50
to
to
Moorshedabad -
Rajshahye -
Bengal
21 12
88 17
(.
30 20
63 50
Mylapore •
Chinglepnt -
Madras
13 1
80 20
Benares
•1V9 .
X.W. Provinces •
25 17
83 4
XagaiiR
-
Ditto.
—
—
Bcrhnmporc
Berhamporc
Ganjam
iad
,'IS
Bengal
t'.l 211
24 5
84 50
88 17
'
Xac-pore
("Dist. j
17 50
to
23 5
78 S
to
83 10
Bhagulporc
Ipore
•
87 0
(.Town
21 ]o
79 10
Rhawulpore
.
Xative State
71 47
Xellore
Nellorc -
Madras
H 27
80 1
llhurtpore
Bhurtpore -
Ditto -
27 12
77 33
I
2,; 2.-,
.80 15
ul
Xorth Canara
Bombay
Turkc
12 23
75 5
r, i •'.',
Xepal
.
l e^
to
30 17
to
88 15
°
i,
•^
Sind ...
26 0
68 16
Bombay
Broach
Bombay
Breach
-
Ditto
Is :,7
21 42
72 52
7« 2
Oodeypore
Eajpootana States
24 37
73 49
da
•1
Goodaspore
Punjab
-listau
:;i in
75 14
li'.i r,
addy -
1'alamcottah
(SefWoopparoddy)
Tinnevclly -
Madras.
Ditto
8 43
77 Is
(
;i2 51
I'atna
I'atna
'll
25 35
85 15
.r
r
'.'.•; 2s
.
Pegu - •£
BcnKaLGov.Gon. f
A dm ii list. O
15 49
to
19 30
94 11
to
ill 55
iltS
N'uddea
Ditto -
22 :: ^
.k S '2.. >
/
32 17
1'ind Dadun Kha:\
Sind Sagur Doab •
Punjab
32 36
7.". 5
Cashmere
, 're -
X'ativc Stale --]
to
"'to'
1'omody or Pau-
...
KidiM,
—
—
I
:;,; u
71) -111
nioilee.
Chieacole •
(Jan-rain
Madras
is is
83 53
Pondicherry
S. Arcot
Madras, a Frencli
11 56
79 51
set 1 lemout.
Chin:
Chingleput
>r
-
Native State
12 41
21 41
80 2
78 12
Poonary
.
Madras
13 20
80 13
-
Coimbatore -
Madras
11 0
77 1
Pulicat
:r],ul '- .
Ditto
13 25
laconum
Tanjore
Ditto
10 58
Radn:i
—
—
—
—
C.inu-everam
Chinirl'.pnt
Ditto .
12 :,0
79 40
Kajahmundry
Eajahiuundry
^la Iras
17 0
81 50
Coonathoor
Chingleput
Ditto
12 59
80 10
-•pore -
•
Sind -
27 18
Cudilalore
A reot
Ditto
11 43
7'.i .-ii
Rawul Pindec
Rawnl Pindce
Punjab
33 37
73 G
(nddapah
( iiddapah -
Ditto
14 2S
7S 52
Runeeporeira
(Ste Kanoeporc) -
Sind.
—
—
i looora, "}
Cundapoor, or r
South Canara
Ditto -
1.1 .18
74 45
Ilutul Mudporo -
Salem
i
Punjab.
Madras
11 39
7s 12
Condapore •)
•'-' 17
68 ^S
Sa'itipore
Xuddea
d
23 14
88 26
Catch
Cuteh
Xativc State •-'
to
to
Sattara
Sattara
Bombay
17 45
74 4
1
21 40
71 45
(
24 30
83 20
Dacca
-
Beniral
90 25
Shahabad
Patna
Bengal - -\
to
to
Darjeeling •
Delhi
Darjeeling
Delhi
Ditto -
X.W. Provinces -
27 2
23 39
88 19
77 18
Shikarporc - -
Shikarporc -
t,
Sind
25 46
23 0
6S 39
DcyralshmailKhan
Drrajat
Punjab
70 53
Sikkim -
Xative State -\
27 5
to
8S 2
to
Dlianvar
Dharwar •
IV
15 28
75 4
1
23 3
89 0
Futtyirurh
Fnrruekabad
X.\V. Provinces -
27 22
79 41
r
23 37
66 4.1
Gangam
Gangam
Madras
I'.l 2.1
85 7
Sind
•
"(
to
2s ;;2
to
71 :;
Goa
.
Former capital of
15 30
74 0
Sulung
Thibet.
_
_
Portuguese p"s-
st -sions.
Surat
Surat
Bombay
21 10
72 52
Goodaspore
.
Punjab.
_
—
Sydapct
Chingleput
.Madras.
—
—
f
21 8
74 45
Syempettah
.
Ditto.
—
—
Gwalior
...
Xative State - j
to
26 50
to
79 21
Sylhet
Dacca
Bengal
24 54
91 50
Gya
.
Bengal
24 48
85 4
Tanjore
Tanjore
Madras
10 47
79 12
33 50
72 30
Teroomaly
.
Ditto.
—
—
Hazara
-
to
35 0
to
7,1 0
Thibet -
.
. J
28 0
to
7'J u
to
Herat
_
Afghanistan
34 26
62 8
c
36 0
IM n
Hoshiarpore
Hyderabad •
Trans Sutlej States
Sind
Punjab
Bombay
31 33
2'. 22
75 57
OS 2s
Trichinopoly
Vencatagorry
Trichinopoly
X. Arcot
Madras -
Ditto
10 50
13 0
78 46
78 32
Hyderabad
Deccan
The Xizam's terri-
17 22
78 32
Ventapollam
Guntoor
Ditto
15 47
80 22
tory.
Tizagapatam
Vizagapatam
Ditto
17 41
83 21
Jcypoor
Jeypoor
Xative State
26 56
75 55
Warungul -
Hyderabad -
The Deecan, Xi-
17 58
79 -JO
Jhelum -
...
Punjab
32 56
73 47
zam's Territories.
Kangra
Trans Sutlej States
Ditto -
32 5
76 18
"Woopparaddy
.
Madras -
17 5
82 23
Karikal -
Tanjore
Madras. A French
10 55
79 53
Woozzoor or Oosoor
Salem
Ditto
12 46
77 51
settlement.
Vc/d
.
...
31 45
.-,1 50
(3428.)
B B
172
TABLE SHOWING WHERE THE SAMPLES IN THE FABRIC BOOKS ARE REFERRED
TO IN THIS WORK.
No. of
Sample
in Vol.
I.
»de
page
No. of
Sample
In Vol.
II.
Vide
Teit,
page
No. of
Sample
in Vol.
III. '
Vide
Text,
page
No. of
Sample
in Vol.
IV.
\ Mli-
Test,
page
No. of
Sample
iu Vol.
V.
Vide
Text,
page
No. of
Sample
in Vol.
VI.
Vide
Text,
patro
No. of
Sample'
in Vol.
VII.
Vide
Tart,
No. of
Sample
in Vol.
VIII.
Vide
Text,
page
No. of
Sample
in Vol.
IX.
Vide
Text,
page
1
15
41
26
81
34
121
30
161
52
201
111
241
75,76
281
77
321
76
2
16
42
26
82
34
122
30
162
49
202
111
242
76
282
78
322
74,76
S
15
43
20
83
35
123
37
163
49
203
111
243
76
283
42
323
77
4
15
44
24,25
84
3-1
124
37
161
51
20 1
111
244
76
284
42,74
324
77
5
16
45
24,25
85
34
125
30
165
45
205
52
241
76
285
42
325
74,78
6
16
40
23,24
86
33
126
29,30
166
45
206
50
246
70
286
76
326
78
7
15
47
23,24
87
34
127
29,30
167
45,74
207
60
247
77
287
41
327
78
8
16
49
24,25
88
35
128
37
168
47,74
208
48
248
77
288
41
328
74,78
9
15
48
25
89
34
129
27,28
109
45
209
50
249
77
289
37
329
74,78
10
16
50
23, 24, 74
90
34
130
31
170
45,74
210
50
250
78
290
37
330
74,80
11
16
51
25
91
34
131
101
171
46,74
211
49
251
78
291
37
331
74,80
12
16
52
23,24,74
92
33
132
86
173
49
212
52
232
115
292
115
332
SO
13
16
53
25
93
33
133
86
173
42
213
46
253
79
293
115
333
80
14
15
54
23,24
94
33
134
101
171
50
214
49
UU
79
291
106,107
334
80
15
10
55
25
95
32
135
86
175
52
215
46
255
115
295
115
335
80
16
16
56
32
96
32
136
86
176
45
216
47
256
115
296
115
336
80
17
16
57
33
97 •
31
137
86
177
45
217
46
257
115
297
84
337
80
18
16
58
31
98
32
138
86
178
45
218
34
258
115
298
84
333
80
19
19
59
^9,74
99
31
139
86
179
46
219
49
259
79
299
84
339
80
20
17
60
29
100
29
140
86
180
tt
220
44
260
115
300
81
340
80
21
19
61
33
101
32
141
101
181
43
221
41
201
113
301
84
341
80
22
19
62
29,74
102
30
142
84
182
41
222
43
262
113
302
84
342
80
23
18
63
28
103
31
143
86
183
46
223
43
263
113
303
84
343
80
24
18
61
29
104
32
144
86
184
U
221
43
26 1
113
304
84
344
81
25
18
65
28
105
29
145
M
185
•14
225
43
265
113
305
84
345
74,81
26
18
66
28
106
37
146
86
186
44,74
226
43
260
113
306
84
346
81
27
18
67
28
107
37
147
86
187
44,74
227
41
267
113
307
85
347
74,81
28
18
68
28
108
31
148
86
188
41
228
41
268
113
308
80
SIS
81
29
18
69
28
109
23,24
149
86
189
42
229
43
269
113
309
80
349
81
30
17
70
74,86
110
23,24
150
86
190
41
230
87
270
116
310
91
350
81
31
17
71
28
111
28,29
151
90,94
191
41
231
87
271
81
311
91
351
105
32
17
72
28
112
30
152
90,91
192
44
232
87
272
81
312
91
352
101
S3
18
73
28
113
29
153
90,94
193
41
233
88
273
81
313
88
353
101
34
17
74
74,86
114
30
154
90,94
191
41,74
234
115
274
116
314
88
354
104
35
20
75
23, 24, 74
1 115
30
155
90,94
195
41
235
115
275
112
315
92
355
101
36
19
76
23,24
; 116
30
150
90,94
196
43
236
87
276
116
316
88
356
101
37
19
77
23,24
117
27,28
157
90,94
197
43,74
237
87
277
116
317
88
357
86
38
20
78
23,24,74
j 118
30
158
96
198
43,74
238
87
278
116
318
88
358
101
39
20
79
23
119
29,30
159
9G
199
43
239
87
279
116
319
92
359
83
40
20
80
23,74
120
30
160
94
j 200
48
240
87
280
116
320
90,93
360
83
173
TABLE SHOWING
Tin: SAMPLES IN THE FABRIC BOOKS AKI: KI:I-I;I;I;I;I>
TO IN THIS WORK. — continued.
Sample
\ ill,'
Text,
page
No. of
XII.
Text,
No. of
in Vol.
XIII.
page
in Vol.
XIV.
Vide
Text,
No. of
in Vol.
XV.
No. of
in Vol.
XVI.
Vide
Text,
page
JNo.of
Sample
in V..1.
XVII.
Milr
Text,
me
No.of
Sample
in \,il.
XVIII.
\id,-
Text,
I ML-,'
.•;.-,i
n
401
Ill
111
IM
111
521
104
Ml
624
136
6M
H
664
134
:<:i
402
112
111
162
112
522
H8
136
6tf
139
665
134
53
403
ss
413
111
186
112
523
101
en
136
646
139, 140
666
134
565
364
n
80
til
101
484
112
524
101
DM
627
13(!
647
139,140
667
134
365
53
.105
88
116
1S5
105
104
567
568
en
35
618
135
668
134
H6
n
406
89
in;
101
186
102
101
569
en
38
649
135
669
134
867
17
407
Si)
117
101
167
102
527
101
m
671
• 146
en
88
650
139
670
134
408
S',1
101
488
112
528
104
r.72
631
136
651
139
071
134
HI
868
'.H
409
n
•I 1:1
101
168
112
52!l
105
571
632
38
36
672
134
370
n
410
89
IM
86
490
112
530
105
575
076
en
38
653
189
673
134
371
17
411
n
451
101
I'H
112
531
105
677
634
139
654
139
674
134
•.12
U'J
88
«2
101
•192
102
532
104
578
579
635
38
656
139
675
134
873'
n
413
88
453
n
IM
102
533
105
580
636
35
656
139,140
676
36
374
«U
89
154
V.I
491
102
534
105
581
582
637
35
657
139
677
35
375
n
as
89
n
495
102
535
105
583
638
139
658
139
678
134
376
416
89
456
86
M
102
536
105
584
58S
639
139
en
139
679
186
m
417
457
95
•197
102
537
105
586
587
640
139
660
140, 141
680
185
91
US
M
458
95
498
102
538
11)5
588
641
139
v 661
140, 141
681
135
in
419
95
459
76
103
539
105
589
590
642
35
i;*;2
140, 141
682
185
880
m
88
460
76
500
102
540
101
591
643
139
663
139
683
135
592
381
91
121 '.15
461
53
501
103
511
104
593
684
135
832
91
•122
H
462
.-,:;
502
103
542
101
594
595
en
135
383
•.H
423
H
463
74, 84
503
103
543
51
596
' 147
686
135
597
087
384
n
IM
H
464
74, 84
504
103
544
51
598
w*
385
n
95
465
84
505
103
545
51
599
688
n
386
!':;
426
95
466
84
506
103
105
600
601
689
36
:;v7
127
95
467
84
5H7
102
547
51
602
603
690
36
388
'.11
428
95
468
74, 84
508
103
548
106
604
691
36
389
429
95
•169
84
509
103
549
97,106
605
606
692
135
390
n
430
93
470
84
510
102
m
106
607
693
136
391
92
431
96
171
74, 85
511
103
551
106
608
609
694
Cancelled.
610
695
142, 144
471
392
n
W2
96
A
35
512
103
552
116
611
6M
142, 144
393
433
96
472
85
513
103
553
116
612
613
397
142, 144
394
n
4S4
112
473
74, 85
514
102
554
116
614
698
142, 148
395
93
435
142
474
85
515
102
555
98
615
616
699
142
396
93
M
142
475
94
516
104
556
107
617
148
700
112, in
M
n
437
142
476
94
517
104
557
107
618
619
398
92
438
142
477
91
518
104
558
107
620
399
'.12
439
142
478
94
519
104
559
107
621
en
400
92
410
142,143
479
IMOJO
520
104
560
107
623
*
480
29,30,96
THE END.
LONDON :
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Printers to the Queen's most Excellent Majesty.
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