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Full text of "Three years in Constantinople; or, Domestic manners of the Turks in 1844"

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THREE YExVRS 



IN 



CONSTANTINOPLE; 



OR, 



DOMESTIC MANNERS 



OF 



THE TURKS IN 1844. 



BY CHARLES WHITE, ESQ. 



*> III £ 




IN THREE VOLUMES. 

VOL. III. 

LONDON: 
HENRY COLBURN, PUBLISHER, 

GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET. 



1845. 



3>K 



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fir. Mahtik'p L\k«. 



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CONTENTS 

OF 

Til E THIRD VO LIT ME, 



CHAPTER I. 



Sultan's Harem— Precedence of Valida Sultana and HTmiinnn - Water 

Excursions — Household and Revenues of the former — Kadinns, how 
presented or purchased — Their Establishments and Equal Rights — Polj - 

gamy rare in Private Life — Conjugal Rights determined bj Iv .m — 

Sultan exempted — Mode of communicating with Han ins — Kailinn- 
must renounce their Names — Sultan entitled to Seven — Names ol his 
Issue by these Ladies — Origin and Description of reigning Monarch'.-; 
Ivadinns — Ceremonies whilst bathing — Night Toilet — What occurs on 
rising — Severe Etiquette of Harem — Law of Legitimacy — Seraglio Last i 
of Seclusion, Destruction, and Succession — Wholesale Morder of Bro- 
thers by Sultan Mohammed III. — Numbers and Classification of Impe- 
rial Slaves — Their Occupations, Diversions, and Punishments — Sultan'-. 
change of Residence — Astrologer-in-Chief — Imperial Kitchens — Esti 
mated Expenses of Court — Venality and Corruption of Household — 
Vain attempts at Reform — Influence of Sultan's Confidential Attend" 
ants .••..., page I 

CHAPTER II. 

Market for Old Clothes — Unhealthiness of Constantinople — Porcelain 
Shops — Danube Steam Navigation — Results of differential duties granted 
to Russia — Decreased prosperity of English Commercial Houses — 
Mode of presenting Water to Masters or Guests — Drinking Glasses- 
Tent-makers — Wives allowed separate Tents and suites of Apartment* 



iv OONTENTS. 



L'ainj) I'.j : Saltan and Army — Inspector-General ol E 

1 unps at Ramistchiflik and Daood Paaha— Militarj Guards in < 

Detail of Regiment of Infantry — Batraelu Hospitals Statistics of 

Sick— Door Curtains— Greek Berranti Bona Qaar aaadi ej Bakf 
"^r u-liji-, Cambrics, and Torban-vindeni -Byt Mode of 

Iging '......is ud borrowing Hone] Danger of baying oast-otT 

aenti daring timea of Plague D if Banitarj Byetem FilUi 

•>f certain quarters — Poll B r^ and Drain- — Currents, Winds, and 
variations of Temperature— Changes thai have taken place in Cbs 
— Poblk Prajen a: . y— Disbelief in man's free notion de- 

Pethwaa . 

CHAPTER in. f 

Parmak (i ! Gal D den in Antiqnitii — Dh t— Atik 

(ui.i) ah Pasha Mosqw — Inlaid W and Artielei Hafya Psahn — 

(..iii and Locksmiths— -Wax Chandlem 8 I fur 

extinguishing I. _■' ■ and i r cautions at [mperial Palae) 

I tetcry at Bnltan B '' Groat th or ou ghf are from the 

Equipages and 1! ! rich men Arabaa and 

Telekas of Ladies Kal I idjj Mustafa Sherbets, RLhoaheb, 

and Apothecaries 1 Decoctions— Kabibj e Dream of Bnltan Selim II.. 

fatal eonsequei • Favourite Dial P da Dolmas— Dobna 

Baghtahy Palace Cooks— Epicui I Q ail Shooting— Game 

Certificate— Dail) mode of life — Dinnen anil Ev • Familiet 

Wine — Ardent Spirits— Champagne — Mured [V.— Excel tfab- 

inoud IL — Temperance of Ahdoul Mcdjid Pic-nii — Musical fnstru* 

i.i' nta— l'> rriah Flute— P and Turkish Songs — Butchi n — 8he< |i 

Parma ■Anatolian and broad-tailed Sheep — Beef and Veal -Hos- 
['itality of Mr. Conaul-Genera] Cartwright— Lambs— Butchers' Corpo- 
ration — Sultan's Shepherd — Right of Free Pasture — Agricultural 
rd — Agriculture— Reforms required — A B ads— Bakers and 

Bread — Millers — Corn Fact rs — Poultry Market*— Bov/amakera — 
Archer] ...... Pagi <'7 

CHAPTER IV. 

Braziers — Kettles of Janissarii a — Formation, Augmentation, and Dis- 
solution of that Corps — Their Kettles and Food — Rations of Modern 
Troops — Janissary Kettles — Discontent how shown — Their revolt in 
f655 — EwerTand Basins for ablutions— Sultan's Water Purveyor 4 — 



QONTENTS. y 

Metal Trays for Dinners — Balkis (fiuoen of Sheba) and Solomon 
Legend relative to Plate Glass — Braziers for heating Rooms — Char- I 
Trade — Tandoors — Coal Trade — Coal Basin of lleraclea — Mineral 
Riches — Copper Strata behind Buyukdcry — Fatron of Brasiers' guild 
— Locksmiths — Gunpowder — Itinerant Performers near Sultan Bajazefs 
Mosque — Carrier-Pigeons — Caliph Yozid's romantic Death — Spoon- 
Makers — Engravers' Bazar, and Corporation — Signet-Ring of Prophet 
— Seal Bearers — Sultan's Seals — Specimens of other Seals — Ceremony 
of confiding Great Seal to Vizirs — Etiquette as to form of paper, Belling 
and signing Public Documents — Stambol and Persian Seal Engravers — 
Ancient and Modern Talismans — Babylonian Cj linden — < 'uneiform Cha- 
racters—First Talisman ascribed to a Disciple i !' Mohammed — Lapi- 
ilaries — Prices of Seals .... Bage 1 21 

CHAPTER V. 

Ozoon Tcharsshy, (Long Market) — Waist Girths — Turkish Uniforms 
— Ihrams for covering Arabas — Dress of European Ladies visiting' Con- 
stantinople, a cause of wonder to Turks and native Christians — Peniten- 
tiary Ihram (mantles) — Coverlet Market — Divans — Sofas — Place <it 
Honour — Building regulations — Inspector of Private Dwellings — Shah 
Xisham — Wooden skreens before and between houses— Interior of 
Turkish habitations — Furniture — Sultan's Private Apartments — Belvi- 
•leres — Mattresses and Bedding — Sold second-hand — Etiquette when 
Sultans or Pashas who espouse Sultanas, retire to rest — Shah Sultana 
and her husband — Caps worn by Turks at home and abroad — F< z 
Manufacture — Boatmen's Heads — Silk Tassels and Trimmings — Arme- 
nian Kalpak — Firmans relating thereto — Rayas wear distinctive marks 
upon Fez — Ferijee — Articles composing Dress of both sexes — Distinc- 
tion between Veils of Turks' and Armenians — Marriage Ceremonies — 
Shawl-Menders and Shawls .... Page 164 

CHAPTER VI. 

War Office— Ancient distinction between Eski and Yeni S^rai — 
Women and Children of defunct Sultans; how disposed of— Impolicy 
of barbarous Seraglio Laws — Correspondents of Foreign Journals — 
Printing-office— Garden and Graveyard of Sukimanya— Official Resi- 
dence of Sheikh Islam — Courts of Justice — Appeals — Opium-eater's 
Market— Stimulating Electuaries— Charlatans who prepare them — In- 
gredients — Philtres sanctioned by Faculty and Council of State under 



vi CONTENTS. 

Louis XIV. — Barbers— Those of Eyoub— Locch-fish. ri of 

Bleeding— Circumcisers — I>jerrah Pacha— Circumcision an Imitative 
Praetice — Origin of that custom, and of boring Women's Ear-— Impe- 
rial Circumcisions, and Letter of Livitatinn to a Feast — Cer 
that take place in Wealthy Families— JiiCL'lers and Fantocini — Turkish 
Children — Patron of Barbers — Inkstand and Lantrrn-makcr*— Val> n -' 
Aqueduct— Street of Columns— Woodcut Fnjr.iv. rs— Slmi- Market — 
Marcian's Column— Statue of Venus, "the Maiden I'n.v. r"— Column 
cf Theodosius— Ft Maidany — Mansion of Bjpanakjee Zadoh — Saddlers' 
Repository — Imperial Uniform at Mevloot, 184.1 — Bits and Stirrups — 
Sultan's Levees called Rikc'ab (Stirrup) — Divers articles - Bad* 

dlers— The Queen of Shcba, ■ Slattern; . . II I 

CHAPTER VII. 

Harness and Ornaments of Beasts of Burden, Draught Oxen, and 
Pet Sheep — Thick-tailed Caramanian Sheep — At Bazary (11 
— Shoeing-Smiths — Prophet's favourite Mare, Duldul — Ambling 1 1 
Dealers' Stables — Cost of I1<t .— Gearing daring Spring 

Sultan's Stud led to Grass — Precautions agaioal Evil V.y — Baaqv 
formerly" given by Miuister of Interior — Harvest Homi — Bulgarian 
Pipers — Arab or well-bred Horses scarce and d 
Stud: colours and names — Retinue of Sultan an. I Pashas — <'a\.i!ry 
and Artillery Horses — Daily Auction at At Bazary — Remarkable pri- 
vate Studs — Grooming and Feeding in Sultan's Stables — \ eterinary art 
— Utility of Dogs: cruelty of BttaOgeiB to ilu-<- animals — The} <"i 
gate in front of Artillery Barracks — Habits and means "t i 
— Hydrophobia — Superstition and death of Grand Vizit r — Porcelain 
Bath — Ablutions and accompanying Prayers — Description <'i a la 
Bath — Attendants, dresses, ablutions, maceration, toilet, r. lr. ~i.ni. n :-. 
and prices — Private chambers — Depilatory paste — Female bathing, 
toilet, and diversions — Private and public Paths — Those establis 
by the Byzantines — Pcra, Galata, and Stambol Baths — Some r served 
for loose Females — Gronnd'plan of a first-class Bath — Gates of Sen 
aud City in 1843 ..... Pag .'. i 

CHAPTER VIII. 

Bridge connecting opposite shores of Golden Horn — Effect of 
southerly gales on the waters of the Harbour — Porpoise-., gulls, aid 
pigeons — Open spaced at extremities of Bridge, and Sultau'-> Apart- 



CONTENTS. vil 

ment at Azab Kapoossy Mosque — Hamlas (Porters) : their Corpora- 
tion, Customs, and Honesty — Timber-yards — Stone-masons— Fountains 
— Tomb-stones — Funeral Rites, as practised at Stamboul — Wailings 
and lamentations of Turkish and Greek women — Expense of Funerals 
and Charitable Donations — Toorba (Mausoleums) of Sultans and Grand 
Dignitaries— Public Cemeteries; that of the Jews — Rose-market at 
Eyoub — Tombs at that place — Classification of Tomb-stones — Ex-votos 
— Form of Grave-stones — Epitaphs — Turbans on Tombs and in Mau- 
soleums — Names and classification of Turbans — Coloured shawls wound 
round them symbolic of parties — Turkish character — Fable of a Sheikh 
and two Dervishes, a deprecatory conclusion . Page 311* 



DOMESTIC MANNERS 



OF 



THE TURKS. 




TELEKA. 



CHAPTER I. 

IMPERIAL HAREM AXD HOUSEHOLD. 

The ladies holding the first place in the imperial 
harem are the Kadinns, who rank according to the date 
of their elevation. They are then designated Bash 
(chief), or Buyuk (great) Kadinn Effendy— second, third, 



VOL. III. 



B 



2 IMPERIAL HAREM. 

ami so on. The mother of the first-born Prince takes 
precedence of all others, bat does not assume the title of 
"Sultana," until her son QOmei to the throne. She is 
then styled Valida (mother) Sultan, lmhls the Beoond 
rank in the empire, h:i- her separate oonrt and residence, 
enjoys all the honours ami liberties of widowed Sove- 
reignty, and pom m i considerable political influence, 
with immense revenues partly paid by thr civil list as 
an annuity, and partly resulting from real property, the 
fruit of gifts and accumulations. 

The income of the present Valid* is estimated at 
£'110,000. The dowries of Sultanas (aunt-, sisters, ami 

daughters,) are generally derived from the produce of 
Archipelago islands: thus, one enjoys a grant "f the t.-i\ 
on the mastich ofScio, another on the sponges of N 

a third on the olives and oranges of Lesbos, and a fourth 
on the wines of Tenedos. 

I!, sma Allem (ornament of the universe), mother to the 
reigning monarch, was a Georgian .-lave, purchased and 

educated by the late Sultan s sister l\-nia*. She was 
celebrated for her accomplishments and beauty; of which 
latter, as far as it is possible to judge through the folds 
of a thin veil, she retains a greater share than is usual 

" This princess, widow of the Grand Admiral Kutehuk (little) Hoesein, 
still lives. She was celebrated in her day for grace and accomplish* 
ments, and for the beauty and gaiety of her harem, which latter quality 

was carried to such extremes as to bring down frequent admonition from 
her brother, Mahmoud II. Age has tempered these frolicsome dispo- 
sitions in the Sultana and her ladies. She occupies a noble yally (villa) 
at Kouru Tchesma, during summer, and a fine konak (mansion) in the 
city during winter. Her palace at Eyoub is abandoned. 



IMPERIAL HAREM. 3 

with Eastern ladies who have reached their 38th year. 
It has been affirmed by some writers that the Sultana 
mother is privileged to appear unveiled. This privilege, 
according to the best informed Turks, does not exist. 
ISo one can remember such an omission. In fact, to 
judge by her demeanour in public, the mother of tho 
Sultan appears more desirous of giving examples of ad- 
herence to general customs than of exhibiting herself as 
an exception. The only perceptible difference between 
her dress and that of other women is in the texture of 
her yashmak (veil), which is composed of finer and more 
transparent muslin. 

It is a pleasing and most original spectacle to look 
upon this great lady, accompanied by her female suite, 
when she indulges herself and them in a binish (excur- 
sion by water). This pleasure I enjoyed repeatedly: 
once, among other occasions, when, with the galaxy of 
houris in her train, she landed at the imperial Kioshk 
of Therapia. The picturesque and varied landscape that 
extends from Unkiar Skelessy and the bay of Buyukdery 
to the Black Sea, when seen from this spot, is always 
admirable. Upon this occasion, its beauties were en- 
hanced by the animated spectacle displayed upon the 
contiguous waters and at the landing-place, and by the 
more distant courtesy of the worthy commander of her 
Britannic Majesty's corvette Magician, anchored in mid- 
channel. 

Upon the approach of the imperial kayiks, Captain 
Mitchel hoisted the Sultan's standard, dressed out his 
gallant craft in her holiday colours, manned yards, and 

b2 



4 IMPERIAL IIAKI ■ 

fired a salute*. Then, when the roar of tl nnoa 

that had recently aided in restoring to the Vaii 
the provinces that an ambitioi -al would have 

torn from his grasp had passed away, the Magician's 
crew complimented the fair Turks with on of tl 
British hurrahs that are mora melodioQa when uttered ai 
tokens of greeting than when thundered forth .:ials 

of onslaught. 

On another occasion, I ohano •and with M. de 

Martaranof* upon the southern arch of the I that 

connects the two shores of tie n Horn. The 

Valida was at that moment returning down the harbour 
from performing her devotions at Eyoub. A more con- 
venient opportunity could not occur for i I : ining the 
contents of the six kayiks containing the Sultana and 
her suite. 

In the first, a richly ornamented, fourb - im- 

perial boat, was seated the Valida, upon embro 1 

cushions, placed on a purple velvet carp<t. fringed with 
gold. Opposite to her, their hacks turned bo the boatm 
were her Khet Khoda (intendant or first lady), and her 
Ivhasuadar (treasurer and second lady). T\ n- r 

Lalas occupied the after-deck, which was covered with a 
rich Persian carpet. A third Lala sat in the how. and 
the boat was steered by an imperial coxswain. 

As the kayik glided beneath our feet, we uncovered 



" The commanders of Queen's ships always pay this compliment to 
the Valida, which is the more gratifying to her, as Turkish vessels of war 
do not salute or notice the harem. 

■f Neapolitan Charge d' Affaires in 1843. 



IMPERIAL HAREM. 5 

our heads. The Valida, who is well acquainted with 
European forms of respect, instantly raised her eyes and 
returned our intended mark of deference with that fixed 
and penetrating gaze, which is the customary token of 
imperial recognition, and is the only acknowledgment 
ever made by the Sultan in return for the salutations of 
natives or strangers*. 

The remaining five boats, painted black outside, with 
yellow mouldings, were rowed by five pair of oars. In 
the first sat the Harem Aghassy (superintendent). 
Opposite to him was the Oda Lalassy (inspector of 
chambers), and Khasnadar Agha (privy pane), and 
behind were two youthful Lalas, one of whom held a 
crimson umbrella over the broad face and misshapen 
figure of his chief. The contents of the four other boats 
were alike. Seven ladies, a pleiades of youth and beauty, 
sat in each, upon crimson ihramg, fringed with goldf", 
and attended by two black Agha-;, whose duty it was to 
protect the merry groups from wind or sun with large 
umbrellas, although some of the ladies saved them this 
trouble by exhibiting the unusual innovation of parasols^. 
With the exception of two negresses, all the Valida's 
attendants were white slaves, who, according to the 

* Some persons have fallen into an error respecting the mode of pay- 
ing respect to the Sultan. It is well known, however, that he expects all 
Franks to uncover their heads. His Highness always returns the compli- 
ment in the manner described in the text ; more must not be expected. 
Turkish Pashas who may be thus saluted, bow slightly, and raise the 
hand as high as the mouth. 

■f- Ihrams will be described further on. 

X Ladies abstain from the use of the parasol on shore, as it would 
require them to expose their hands. 



C IMPERIAL II.Utr.M. 

assertion of Turkish ladies, form an assemblage of beauty 
and accomplishment not to be surpassed by the far-fan.' 1 
and less scrupulous harem of Esma Sultana. 

When the Valida takes the air by land the same 
etiquette i- o bser ved, with this difference, that all her 
Aghas are mounted. Thus her suite on these occasion! 
comprises some thirty females and from ten to lift 
Aghas. Tin Be arc but a portion «»f her household, wb b 
consists of nearly one hundred and fifty persons. Her 
principal Kihaya [intendant) is the Director General of 
Custom- (Gumruk Naxiry), Tahir Bey, who, with the 
aid of several secretaries and sub-agents, managi i her 
revenues. Her footmen, cooks, grooms, aivaas, and other 
menials, are Lodged outside the walls of her palace, which 
building is situated upon thecrown of the hill of Yeni 
Mahal. nli<i\ e Tcheraghan. 

The Kadinns .-iic ii'i\\ exclusively Circ - s, although, 
in former times, the imperial harem oontained women of 
all countries and creeds. They are without exception 
slaves, presented to the Sultan by his mother, aunts, 
sisters, and favourites, or purchased by his own commis- 
sioners. These Kadinns enjoy equal rights and privili e 
Their establishments are distinct, hut in all resp 
similar. They have separate suites of apartments, baths, 
and offices, and to each is allotted an equal number of 
Aghas and female slaves acting BS ladies of honour, 
readers, dressers, and attendants. Their pin or slipper 
money amounts to about twenty-five thousand piastres 
(240/.) per month; all other expenses are defrayed by the 
Sultan's treasurer. 



IMPERIAL HAREM. 7 

Minute attention is paid to all points of etiquette, and 
the utmost impartiality is observed in the distribution of 
presents or other marks of favour, in order to obviate 
jealousies. For, although the Sultan is never approached 
by these ladies without the humblest demonstrations of 
deference, even, as it is admitted, to their entering the 
imperial couch at the foot, his Majesty is nevertheless 
subject to frequent explosions of ill-humour, during the 
intervals of which the little artifices of tears, pouting*, 
tender reproaches, and hysterics are not spared. Al- 
though slaves, for they are never manumitted, nnl 
they become de jure free, as Validas, their claims upon 
the Sultan's attentions are the same as those of married 
women, in the few private families where there are more 
than one legal wife. I say few — because it is an incon- 
testable fact, that polygamy in the capital dues not 
amount to five per cent. It is rarely met with save 
among the richest and most powerful functionaries; and 
even then plurality of wives is an exception. To argue, 
therefore, that polygamy is one of the main causes of 
stationary population, is to argue upon false data and 
erroneous premises. 

The progressive strength of populations depends upon 
the multiplication of the middling and lower classes, and 
among them polygamy is most unusual. It suits neither 
their inclinations nor their means. No, it is to the deplor- 
able custom of counteracting the generous efforts of nature 
by swallowing deleterious drugs, calculated to destroy 
infant life in the germ — to the over-frequent use of debi- 
litating baths — to unwholesome food — to the ravages of 



8 IMPERIAL HAREM. 

contagious maladies— and above all to tli ni of 

dragging so large a portion of the adult population to 
serve and perish in the ranks* — and not fes the aim-.'. of 
even to the practice of polygamy, that the limited increase 
of Turkish families may chiefly be aseril 

The Kooran, while il sanctions plnrality of wives, 
provides for equal distribution of conjugal right-. In tho 
event of neglect on the part of husbands, wire* arc en- 
titled to complain to magistral -. and to demand div. 
— an application always attended to. and supported by the 
Lady's relatives. The forced on private 

individuals is respected by the Sultan: not because he 
is amenable to law, his kadinns being unmarried ami 
slaves, but because he i- M other men to | 

serve concord in his family, and to avert frown- and ill- 
humour from the brows of his beautiful partners, of whom 
the present sovereign has only four, although entitled to 
possess seven. 

The whole establishment of the harem consists of 
females, of whom a portion ar> sses, principally em- 

ployed in menial offices and in conveying dinner tr 
mangals, and other articles, to and from the wooden pivot- 
boxes, which, like those seen in nunneries, are inserted 

" The whole Moslem population, from the ago of Bixteen to twenty- 
five, is liable to conscription. The evils caused by depriving the country 
of so many thousand sources of fecundity art 1 enhane.d by the conse- 
quent mortality. The average number <.f those who return from mili- 
tary service does not exceed 33 per cent., and these generally enfeebled 
and worn out, not from long service, but from imstal.'ia, rheumatism, 
and gastric affections. It must be remembered that all rasas are free 
from conscription, and consequently the burden of recruiting falls upon 
Moslems. 



IMPERIAL HAREM. 9 

in the walls that separate all harems from external courts 
or chambers. Male servants deposit whatever may bo 
required from without in these boxes, and thus immediate 
communication is maintained, without either party seeing 
each other, or without doors being opened. When it is 
necessary that the latter should be opened, to admit per- 
sonal passage, a wooden skreen, resting on vertical hinges, 
is swung across, so as to conceal objects behind. These 
skreens or gates are generally affixed at the entrance of 
all large houses, in front or behind the doors opening into 
the harem on the basement floor. 

When slaves are raised to the rank of kadinn, they 
renounce their names, and are only recognized by those 
of head, second, third, kc. These ladies not being 
married, the designation commonly given to them, of 
"Sultan's wives,'" is erroneous. Nor are they addressed 
by the title of Sultana, that being reserved for the Im- 
perial children. Kadinns cannot even sit upon divans 
or chairs in the Sultan's presence, although their daugh- 
ters enjoy this privilege; their place is upon cushions, 
spread upon the floor. There is no such person officially 
as the Khasseky (favourite), although former sultans per- 
mitted their first favourites to assume this appellation*. 
Preferences naturally exist; but it is difficult for the 
Sultan to betray them in a marked manner without 
exciting dangerous jealousies and harassing clamours. 
The reigning monarch has the reputation of being much 

* Such, for instance, as Rabia Gulnush, first khasseky to Mohammed 
IV., foundress of the mosque at Galata; and another khasseky of Sulei- 
man, foundress of Arret Bazary Mosque. 

bS 



10 IMPERIAL HAREM. 

beloved by all his family. Tie has hitherto only rtiw 1 
five ladies to the rank of kadinn. ( >nc of these. Xinet or 
Zihem Felik (ornament of heaven), died in 1842. They 

have borne him eight children, of whom live wore alive 
in the spring of I s I !. viz : — 

Sultan Mohammed Murad ( leserving praise and 
having a will) . 

Sultan Abdoul I i amid (servant of the praise- 
worthy). 

Rafya Sultana (the exalted.) 

Alva Sultana, (the elevated). 

Jamila Sultana, (the beautiful)*. 
The Buyuk Kadinn was a presenl from ESsma Sul- 
tana, and is descrihed by those ladies who knew her pre- 
viously to her removal to the palace as an interesting 
and accomplished woman, bul not extraordinary for per- 
sonal charms. The second, who has borne two children, 
the last a son, was purchased by Eliza Pasha, and given 
to Esma Sultana, who educated and then presented her 
to her nephew. She has the reputation of great beauty 
and accomplishments, and of writing tolerable poetry. 
The third was a gift of the Valida, and is cited as re- 
markable for her beauty, and not less so for her haughty 
and wayward disposition. The fourth was educated by 
Riza Pasha's first wife; and, according to the assertions 
of Stambol ladies, bears away the palm of beauty from 

" The Sultan has one brother, Abdoul Haziz, who will succeed if he 
survives the present Fadishah, and two remaining sisters, Atya, married 
to Achmet Fetbi Pacha, and Adlya, unmarried. Atya is a patroness of 
literature, and not without talent as a poetess. 



IMPERIAL HAREM. 11 

all her colleagues, but is not highly accomplished. The 
deceased Zihem Felik is said to have been of most in- 
tractable temper, and most jealous and fretful disposition* 
This eventually led to the pulmonary complaint of which 
she died. 

Kadinns are compelled to renounce all connexion with 
their families, and are cut off from all external commu- 
nication by letter or otherwise. This regulation is 
rigidly observed, not from motives of jealousy, as that 
would be superfluous, but in order to prevent the demands 
and intrigues of needy relatives, who might put forward 
claims, as near akin to different members of the Imperial 
family — a useful precaution, as Circassia may be said to 
be one-fourth peopled with their connexions, the greater 
part of whom are serfs or persons of low condition*. 

No women, unconnected with the Imperial harem, or 
with those of married Sultanas, arc permitted to visit or 
communicate with kadinns, or unmarried sultanas. Am- 
bassadresses have solicited the favour, but it has never been 
granted. The Yalida and married Sultanas may, how- 
ever, exercise their discretion in this respect, and now 
and then receive the wives of envoys and distinguished 
strangers. Even Aghas rarely enter the kadinns"' apart- 
ments, unless commanded so to do, and never see their 
fair mistresses unveiled. 

Seven great female officers preside over the harem. 
These are the Khet Khoda (grand mistress and inten- 

* Children sent for sale generally belong to the class of serfs, as 
shewn by Mr. Longworth, in his graphic and interesting work on 
Circassia. 



12 IMPERIAL 11AKEM. 

dant), Khaanadax Oosta (ti r), Tehama>hccr Oosta 

(mistress of robes and linen), Tchaabaigi • 1 1 toeta (sapor* 
intendent of table-Berries), Ki.-itih Oosta (principal 

secretary), Hammamjee ( tosts (n ■ ol baths), and 

Kilargee Oosta (store-keeper). They hav< ral de- 

puties an<l subordinates, who attend to lighting, olsaaa- 
ing, washing, cooking, coffee-making, pip - bo. The 

seven superior ladies are elderly white slaves, reeotnr 
raendable from probity and long a. Nothing can 

be done without the knowledge and sanction of the Khet 
Khoda, who communicatee with the Grai I Marshal 
and external officers. Each of tl ren has her dis- 

tinct establishment. They may be frequently si i d shop- 
ping in the city, attended by Imperial serrai 

Before the Sultan ent< ra hia harem at night, and it is 
not customary for him to do >o doring the day, he com- 
municates to the agha in waiting the name of the kadinn 
whom he proposes to summon to his couch. The agha 
conveys the message to the Khet Khoda, who annoui 
it to the first lady in waiting on the kadinn. all of whom 
have the honour of receiving the Sultan's visits in 
regular succession. Should indisposition prevent this, 
the next in turn is selected. At the appointed time, 
which is generally after yatsy namazy (night or fifth 
prayer)*, the Sultan proceeds to the door dividing the 
harem from the mabain or salamlyk. Here all his 
attendants save the black agha on duty make their 
obeisance, and the door is opened by the portress inside. 

* This prayer is invariably announced an hour aud a half after Aksham 
(sun-set) namazy. 



IMPERIAL HAREM. 13 

Care is taken that all issues looking upon the inner 
galleries, through which the monarch panes, shall he 
closed. No person is permitted to appear, and perfect 
silence is maintained. 

The Sultan has a suite of apartments within the 
harem, to which the designated lady is generally con- 
ducted, and from which she withdraws at dawn. But 
sometimes he honours the kadinn in her own apartment. 
In the latter case, a signal is given by the agha, who 
precedes the monarch with lights; and, the door being 
opened, the Sultan is received by the lady and her 
slaves with the most abject demonstrations of respect. 
The same silence and mystery are observed in the 



morning. 



Should his Highness bathe within the harem, which 
never occurs unless indisposition should prevent his 
quitting the interior, he is served by women allotted to 
this duty. They consist of gedeklik (chosen), who are 
alone entitled to this honour. This process is conducted 
with rigid attention to etiquette and propriety, under the 
superintendence of two or more elderly oosta. The 
Imperial bather is enveloped in crimson silk cloths 
embroidered in gold, called pestamel, and the attendants 
are attired in light but ample dresses. 

This ceremony is contrary to our ideas of delicacy. 
Nevertheless, it is more decorous than might be sup- 
posed. The old oostas perform the required services 
while the Sultan is within the heated room ; and it is 
not until he returns to the vestiary that the younger 
gedeklik approach, in order to ofier refreshments, and to 



14 IMPERIAL HAREM. 

divert him with songs or stories — and this with most 
severe and rigid respect for decorum. 

"When it is the Sultan's pleasure to take refreshments 
in the apartments of any lady, he is waited upon by that 
lady's slaves. Sweetmeats, cakes, fruits, sherbets, coffee, 
ices, and other delicacies, prepared by their own zealous 
hands, are presented. Each kadinn has a small kitchen, 
and great rivalry is exhibited in seeking to gratify the 
monarch with dainties, for which he is known to 
entertain a predilection. The evening is employed in 
playing with the children, if the kadinn be a mother*, 
in listening to the songs or recitations of the most 
accomplished slaves, in examining jewellery and drea 
— in short, the time is passed much after the manner of 
all other wealthy Turks, when within the privacy of their 
harems. On these occasions, the Sultan withdraw! 
about the usual hour of repose ; for it is a rare occur- 
rence with him to pass the night in any other than his 
own apartment. 

The process of the night toilet is simple and expe- 
ditious. "When within his own private chambers, the 
Sultan generally wears a light caftan and trowsers 
during summer, and a kurk lined with fur.- in winter, 
with warm shalwars and cntary. When the hour of 
repose arrives, these upper garments are laid aside, and 
the under vestments retained. A skull cap, of white 
linen or plain brown felt, confined by a handkerchief, ia 

* The children of each kadinn remain under the mother's care, and 
the utmost vigilance is exercised by them in watching over their charges, 
lest the jealousy of rivals should lead to fatal consequences. 



IMPERIAL HAREM. 15 

substituted for the fez. The use of bedsteads, except in 
barracks and hospitals, is scarcely known. Orientals 
prefer couches placed upon the floor. These consist of 
two or more mattresses filled with wool or cotton. The 
Sultan's couch differs, however, from all others. The 
mattresses are placed upon a bedstead, or frame, of orna- 
mented mahogany, protected by curtains and mosquito- 
nets. 

Upon rising for dawn prayer (sabahh namazy) the 
Sultan passes into a side chamber, where some of the 
gedeklik pour water over his hands for ordinary ablu- 
tion, and offer him embroidered towels. He then per- 
forms his devotions, and, if disposed, is served with a 
cup of coffee and a morsel of light cake. After that, 
w r hen in good health, he generally returns to his ex- 
ternal apartments, where he is waited upon in due time 
by the Berber Bashy, and completes his toilet. This 
being accomplished, he partakes of his first meal, con- 
sisting of various light dishes of meat, confectionary, 
and fruit. Sometimes, especially on Fridays, his High- 
ness proceeds direct from the harem to the bath. 

When the Sultan receives one or more ladies in his 
state apartments, within the harem, he is attended by 
all the great ladies of the palace, and is waited upon by 
gedeklik, and also by the first ladies attached to the 
kadinns or sultanas who may be present. Sometimes 
the whole harem is admitted to his presence, and 
diverted with music, dances, and mimic exhibitions, per- 
formed by slaves constituting what may be termed the 
corps de ballet. The crowd of beauty, the splendour of 



16 IMPERIAL HAREM. 

dresses and jewellery, the richness of furniture, and bril- 
liancy of illimii nation, are then said to rival the fairy 
creations of the Arabian tales; but, with the exception 
of one Frank lady, a Spaniard, residing at Pen, no 
stranger was ever admitted to these dazzling spectacles*. 
The idea of one man ruling uncontrolled over an 

■ 

assemblage of some three hundred and fifty women, two- 
thirds of whom are selected for their personal charms, 

almost bewilders imagination, and leads to strange n- 
flections. But our notions on this subject are for the 
most part erroneous. Tho harem etiquette is observed 
with most minute punctiliousness and SBVH rity. and forma 
a barrier to indulgence. Indeed, if religions and moral 
scruples, combined with court regulations, did not curb 
the will of the master, the jealousies of kadinns and the 
watchful eye of the Kliet Khoda and Oostas would 
restrain indiscriminate indulgence. 

Every movement, every look, of the Sultan within the 
harem or mabain, is regulated by scrupulous attention to 
rules and to the claims and privileges of each individual 
entitled to notice. Infractions of these rules and gratifi- 
cations of caprice doubtless take place; but the tales 
that are recounted at Pera, the pandemonium of igno- 
rance, falsehood, and venality, and the absurdities wc 
read of unbounded profligacy, are fictions founded upon 
malice on one side, and upon excessive credulity on the 
other. The avidity with which foreigners seek for and 

* The lady in question, gifted with great musical talent*, was invitt.l, 
hy the Sultan's command, to pass three or four days with the Kadinns 
and Sultanas. 



IMPERIAL HAREM. \*J 

listen to the inventions of Perote informants encourages 
the latter to amuse themselves at the expense of travellers, 
and thus to mislead Europe. Fifty instances, some of 
which have appeared in print, might be enumerated. 

Now-a-days the Sultan dares not openly overstep the 
bounds of propriety, nor can he indulge his caprices 
secretly without adopting precautions not to offend the 
laws of decorum and the admitted rights of his kadinns. 
Even in former days these rules could not always be in- 
fringed with impunity. One of the causes that led to the 
death of Sultan Ibrahim, in 1648, was his contempt for 
harem regulations and his abuse of power over his nume- 
rous female slaves. Similar disregard to domestic duties 
and morality led to the disgrace and death of Damad 
Zadeh Effendy, Sheikh Islam under Sultan Abdoul 
Hamid, A.D. 1785. This vizir, not less celebrated for 
unbounded profligacy than for talents and learning, long 
fascinated the Sultan and people ; but he carried 
licentiousness to such extremes that the very lowest 
classes were scandalized, and he fell scorned by all men. 

The Turks are by no means patterns of morality; but 
it is indisputable that the vices and defects of their per- 
sonal character and domestic institutions are constantly 
exaggerated. In portraying Turkish character, the 
generality of writers eagerly seize upon the dark side of 
the picture, and support their arguments by examples 
selected at will; while at the same time they studiously 
omit all traits of worth, generosity, and virtuous pro- 
priety, of which abundant instances are publicly acknow- 
ledged. 



18 IMPERIAL HAULM. 

The Sultan has rarely an opportunity of speaking 
women appointed to wait upon him, unless in the pre- 
sence of many others. Tin- strictest watch i- held over 
these women by day and night. Their dormitories arc 
under the charge of superior Onstas, whose duty it U 
maintain silence and order. A lamp placed in a g 
niche in the wall givi 1 Light both to the chamber; and 
externa] corridor, where an agha il on duty at ni_dit*. 

When the Sultan ii in oompany with ■ kadinn, it 
would be as insulting for him t<> notice one of her sis 
as for a crowned head in Christendom to distinguish ■ 
lady in waiting upon his consort. When within his 
own apartments in the harem, it would be equally in- 
decorous for the Sultan to notice <•; • _■ leklik more than 
another. 

If preferences he shown, they are managed w cretlj 
much bo, that a lady is sometimes elevated to the rank 
of kadinn without any person, excepting p< rhaps the 
Khet Khoda, being aware of any previous predilection. 
These secret arrangements are the less difficult, as the 
consent of the slaves is of !-econdary consideration. In 
most cases, indeed, tluy feel flattered and honoured by 
the Sultan's notice. Deprived of all intercourse with 
the other sex, they centre all hopes in their imperial 
master. 

The law which ordains the legitimacy of all offspring 

• The night-watch, within and without the Seraglio, is set about 10 
r. M., and all fires and lights, save those in the nichi •-. RM extinguished. 
The signal for extinguishing lights, and for the whole harem to retire to 
rest, is the explosion of several rockets, fired from the guard-ship at 
anchor near the palace. 



IMPERIAL HAREM. 19 

of free Moslem fathers, no matter what the mother's 
condition, also acts as a check upon indulgence. The 
issue of female slaves being entitled to all privileges of 
inheritance, although the mothers be not kadinns, the 
result would be a most inconvenient multiplication of 
legitimate heirs, or indiscriminate infanticide. Un- 
fortunately, the latter expedient, anterior to birth, is 
often resorted to in the imperial harem and in private 
families; although it is rigidly forbidden by law, and 
perpetrators are liable to the penalties awarded for 
murder*. 

Although cases occur of the above flagitious expedient 
being employed, and of the destruction of full-termed 
male infants, when the Sultan has already two or more 
sons, the utmost care is taken to prevent accidents in the 
event of a slave being declared pregnant, when the 
monarch has only one male infant; for it is considered 
essential that there should be both an heir apparent and 
presumptive, in order that, on the death of the elder 
brother, the second may succeed, and a minority be there- 
by avoided. Thus, should a slave become mother of a 
second or even a third son, she is elevated to the rank 
of kadinn ; and if there be already seven of the latter, one 
is deposed and set aside as a pensioner. 

The law of seclusion and destruction introduced by 
Suleiman the Great has never been abolished, but its 



* It is notorious, that sundry women gain their livelihood by preparing 
drugs calculated to destroy life in the germ, while others enjoy a most 
unholy reputation for their skill in producing still births, even at the 
moment of travail. 



20 IMPERIAL HAIIKM. 

severities have been mitigated. This law originated in 
the intrigues of the mothea of hit tons, the Ki - 
and the celebrated Chora**, by which three ibm eflhe 
former lost their Uvea. This law, contcnty lathe stooran, 

to nature, and to the pn a pit of Islam, nforo <1 by 

many of Suleiman's succc->ors. Under the | of state 
necessity, it was converted into a pretext for immerooi 
execrable murder-. )•< rpetrated 11)11.11 the' junior male 
branches of the imperial ha 

From the founder of the dyna-t_\ to Aehniet I., the 

fourteen first Sultana - led tin ir lather-, but the 

sons of Achilla, who died in hi 1 7. being infants, the 
(i rand Council determined to ch g the order of suc- 
cession. Consequently Mustafa, brother of Aehmi t. was 
taken from his Bechuion in the Seraglio and proclaii 
Snltan*f. The law of secluding and destroying bu] 
fluous male issue' was nevertheless acted npon with in- 
creased rigour. ^\" i tli the exception of Mohammed IV.. 
and the present Sultan, who - Led their fathers, in 

default of collateral issue, the suco ssioo has a! v. 
passed to the* oldest member of the family; and Mich 
would be the ease at present. Supposing th< . ling 
Sultan were to terminate his career before his broth' C 
Abdoul llaziz, the latter, and not the Sultan's eldest 
son, would succeed. Thus the former is heir apparent, 
and the latter heir presumptive. 

* The Roxalana of Europe. 

-f- Mustafa I., sou of Mohammed III., raised to the throne in 1.617, 
dethroned in the following year, and re-instaud after the murder of 
Osman II., in 1G22. He also fell a victim to the Janissaries in 1<J23. 



IMPERIAL HAREM. 21 

Whenever younger sons or brothers have been per- 
mitted to live, they have been immured within the 
.Seraglio, in that part of the third court called "the Cage.' 1 '' 
There, at a certain age, they were provided with small 
harems; but care was taken to select sterile slaves. If, 
however, in spite of this precaution, symptoms of ma- 
ternity appeared, the offspring, or sometimes even the 
mother, was destroyed. This barbarous practice, still in 
force, was adopted to prevent the birth of collateral 
competitors for the succession, which always passes to the 
eldest male, whether brother or cousin*. For instance, 
on the death of Abdoul Hamid in 1789, the crown fell 
to his nephew, Selim III., son of Abdoul Hamid's elder 
brother, Mustafa III. Then, on the murder of Selim, 
the sovereignty reverted to his cousin, Mustafa IV., and 
upon his death, to Mahmoud II., both sons of Abdoul 
Hamid. 

This mode of succession is intended to guard against 
the clangers of minorities, the inconveniences of which are 
sufficiently exemplified in unhappy Spain. History shows 
that some Sultans have carried this seraglio law of extir- 
pation to most execrable lengths. A melancholy example 
of this is exhibited to visitors who enter the precincts of 
Aya Sofia. In the outer southern court are three large 
mausoleums. The centre one of these was constructed by 
Murad III., who died and was entombed there in 1594, 
leaving eighteen sons, whose lives had been spared, con- 

* The present Sultan's brother is in his 16th year. He is treated 
with the utmost affection and kindness by Abdoul Medjid, but never 
appears in public. 



22 IMPERIAL HAREM. 

trary to general practice. The eldest, Mohammed III., 
succeeded, but was scarcely inaugurated ire he gave 
orders for tho strangulation of his seventeen brothers« 

Their shawl-covered biers, headi 1 by white turbans, sur- 
mounted with single Mark aigrettes, denoting their rank 
as prince-, are placed od either side of the immense hicr 
of their father*. Near to these ire the coffins of tlnir 
nephew. Prince Mahmond, and of his mother, whom the 
bloodthirsty Mohammed III., father and partner uf tho 
two latter, also immolated to hu hideous jealousy. 

It is impossible to enter this dimly-lighted and solemn 
receptacle — this imperial repository <>f wholesale fratri- 
cide — without sentiment- of awe, or to gase upon theso 
nineteen records of despotism, without wondering that a 
people so essentially mora] and humane in many resp bi 
should tranquilly permi' i KOI B8I 3, that are in direct vio- 
lation of the sacred writings, and totally opposed to all 
those precepts and practices, to which they generally 
adhere with scrupulous tenacity. 

Although the light of divine grace has hitherto failed 
to soften the hearts of Turkish sovereigns, and, although 
barbarous jealousies and precautionary fear- have been 
more powerful than religious injunctions, the time has 
arrived when their eyes must bo opened to the stigma 
cast upon themselves and people by the perpetration of 
these deeds of blood — deeds that can neither be palliated 
nor excused, and which justly tend to kindle hostile sen- 
timents, equally dangerous to the security of the empire 

* Neither the word bier, nor coffin, is a correct translation of ''san. 
douka ;" as the bodies repose in the earth beneath these empty boxes. 



IMPERIAL HAREM. 23 

and to the maintenance of the dynasty among the circle 
of civilized thrones. Thus, if humanity and religion fail 
to produce effect, self-interest and policy must operate 
beneficially. 

The number of females composing the imperial harem 
is rated at more than three hundred and fifty, of whom 
about one hundred and fifty are negresses employed in 
low menial offices. About thirty slaves are allotted to the 
special service of each kadinn and marriageable Sultana, 
and a few to that of the seven great court ladies. The 
whole are divided into four classes — namely, Gedeklik 
(chosen, or appointed), Oostas (mistresses, or superiors),* 
Shahzyrda (novices), and Djarya (common slaves). 

Of these, the first, limited to twelve, are the most 
distinguished. They are selected for their beauty and 
accomplishments, and, as their names indicate, are exclu- 
sively " appointed" to perform the functions of pages and 
attendants on the Sultan's person. It is from this class that 
the seven great ladies are selected, and that chance often 
elevates one or more to the honour of being kadinns, 
and thence, perhaps, Valida Sultanas. All are, therefore, 
eager to be included in this privileged band*f*. They 
have their distinct oda, bath, and meals, and are waited 
upon by the third and fourth classes. Their dresses and 
jewels are costly and expensive; and they constantly 

* Oosta properly means an expert, or foreman. Thus, in trade, the 
masters of crafts are termed oostas, or oostads. 

+ When the Sultan exhibits preference for one of these ladies, and 
results are likely to ensue, her elevation to the rank of kadinn is certain, 
provided her infant comes to maturity. In the mean time she is much 
courted by her companions, and is styled ikbal, (one favoured.) 



I 



24 IMPERIAL HAREM. 

receive rich presents in money, trinkets, ami materials 
for dresses, and arc occasionally allowed to make excur- 
sions in arabas or in kayiks, • toorted by agfaae, illy 

appointed to attend them. 

Oo.stas are divided into as many odas (companies) as 
there may l»c unmarried sultanas and kadinns. Each 

of these ladies has an oda sttached to her Bpeeia] ser- 
vice, oonsisting of the three inferior (da i - oda 
bears the name or number of the lady, sudi SS Adlya 
sultan odassy, or ikinnjy (seeond) ka linn odassy. The 
seven best oendncted and most acoi mplished women of 
each oda are select* d as superinti adents, and ha\ e ch u e 
of all matters eoneernin_ r the food, dress, and discipline 
of those beneath them. 

Shahzyrda arc young girls under tuition. When their 
education is terminated, they are destined to replenish 
vacancies in the two preceding sections. They are all 
presents or purchases. 

Djarya arc, with IVw exceptions, n caresses of all a_ 9; 
from whom arc selected the nurses of the imperial infants, 
and all the cooks of the harem. 

The last two classes are also divided into odas (literally 
chamber), whence the name of odalik (chamKr-wnruan). 
corrupted into odalisk by Europeans. Each chamber, or 
company, is under the charge of a superior oosta. who is 
responsible for education and good conduct. Tn tbe event 
of misbehaviour, the odaliks are punished by confinement, 
stripes with a slipper on the ears and back, and, as a last 
mark of disgrace, are turned out of the household and 
given away, when they may be sold, if it suits their 



IMPERIAL HAREM. 25 

owner's convenience. The labour of slaves, when not 
restricted to menial duties, consists in making dresses 
and furniture, spinning, embroidery, and needlework of 
all kinds. Their amusements are little varied. They 
are restricted to bathing, making sweetmeats, dressing, 
listening to the songs and stories of their accomplished 
companions, walking in the palace gardens, and now and 
then an excursion in boats or arabas. 

The period when the Sultan changes his residence is 
always a moment of recreation and diversity to the whole 
harem. Unless some extraordinary occurrence should 
intervene, these migrations take place nearly at the same 
period every year. Until lately, the courtquitted the winter 
palace of Beshiktash, about the 1st of May, old style. It 
then removed for a month to the small palace at Khiat 
Khana, during which time the public was forbidden to 
approach within three-quarters of a mile, as the ladies 
were accustomed to stroll and divert themselves in the 
surrounding meadows. A cordon of soldiers bivouacked 
round the limits, and when foreign ministers demanded 
audiences, they were received at a small kioshk on the 
banks of the muddy stream most inappropriately called 
the Sweet Waters*. 

Latterly, this palace has been found inconvenient and 
unhealthy; and, inconsequence, the Sultan has removed 
direct from Beshiktash to the splendid palace of Tche- 
raglmn, or to that of Beglerbey, immediately opposite. 
The return to Beshiktash takes place about a fortnight 
before the autumnal equinox, although the month of 

* See Map. 
VOL. III. C 



2G IMPERIAL HABBM. 

October is the most temperate and agreeable of the whole 
year. These chances do not take place without referring 
to the Munejim Baahy, who iixes the most propitious 
hour. Indeed, few events of iniportanco occur without 
his being consult' I. 

It is erroneous, nevcrth i suppose that the ■ -t r. »_ 

logcr in chief controls coanaeli <>r eausi I, onleai it Ik' in 
his quality as a member of the 0.11. -,• of Oolema, wh< 
he lb entitled to utter hia opinion, not a- a calculator of 
planetary influences, but as a judge of sublunary events. 
He is not even a member of tin- supreme council, or «>f that 
of state. The interposition of judicial astrology does not 
extend further than to the mere recommendation "I" given 
periods for action. U rit< rs on Turkey totally mistake 
the attributes of the Munejim Baahy, wh< n they ascribe 
to him political weight or importance. Thus, supposing 
that it be determined that a fleet shall sail, or a >hip bo 
launched, wind and other oircum - permitting, the 

Munejim in chief i- not consulted a- to the intention, 
but solely as to the most auspicious hour, much in the 
way that gardeners and farmers refer for advice to 
Moore's Almanac. But in all cases the consultation is 
a mere form, and there i- nol a single man of education 
or common sen.-e who does not ridicule the maintenance 
of the practice. 

The meals of the different classes of slaves are furnished 
from the external kitchens, in which vast buildings there 
is a constant display of activity from sunrise to sunset. 
Innumerable stoves, saucepans, ovens, and small spits 
are in action. Piles of vegetables, meat, poultry, fish, 



IMPERIAL HAREM. 27 

and other articles, bestrew the ground; and numerous 
busy hands are engaged in bringing the raw materials 
into a fit state for the palace tables. It is an animated, 
but by no means an orderly or cleanly, scene; and the 
cooks, mostly Armenians, are as dirty in their persons 
as they are slovenly in their mode of cooking. 

Each oda is served apart. The women assemble in 
parties of six or eight, around the low tables, on which 
the trays are placed. Their repasts consist of five or six 
dishes, regulated by the kilarjee (stewardess) of each 
class; to these are added abundant sweetmeats, pickles, 
and coffee, with golden pilaf on Tuesdays and Fridays*. 
All slaves receive materials for making their own gar- 
ments and dresses; these are selected by the grand mis- 
tress, so that a species of uniformity is preserved. On 
Beirams, the birth of children, and other great festivities, 
money and presents are also distributed ; and when the Sul- 
tan visits kadinns in their own apartments, he never fails 
to give proofs of his munificence to their waiting-women. 

It is difficult to obtain a correct account of the number 
of persons of both sexes composing the imperial house- 
hold, or of the attendant expenses. There is no civil 
list, strictly speaking; but a sum of thirty millions of 
piastres (273,000/.) is nominally deducted from the public 
revenues for the Sultanas service. He is, moreover, pos- 
sessor of immense domains, and has at his disposal the 
produce of many wakoofs. These united sums are scarcely 
equal, it is said, to the innumerable claims upon his 

* Pilaf plays the same part in Turkish Friday repasts, as our roast heef 
or plum -pudding on Sundays. 

c 2 



IMPERIAL HAREM. 

purse. According to the assurance of persons connected 
with his, Hichness's treasury, the total of individuals fed, 
paid, and clothed at the imperial expense, amounts to 
more than fourteen hum] red, exclusively of kavass, body 
guard, and watermen, who receive rations, pay, and 
uniforms, but cook for themselves. Each nude, not a 
slave, receives a small monthly salary, a suit of clothes 
annually, and presents :it stated periods. Hut. their pay 

being trifling, and their clothing scanty, they seek to 
make up the deficiency by nnlimited plunder and un- 
scrupulous demands for baksish. 

The venality and malversation that, with rare excep- 
tions, prevail in every department of gov< rnment, are 
carried to extreme lengths in the imperial household. 
Each individual, who lias the power of robbing or pecu- 
lating, pushes this faculty to the utmost limits. The 
marshal of the palace and his subordinates arc required 
to keep a watchful eye upon those beneath them; but, 
in most instances, they set wholesale examples of the 
vices which it is their duty to check. 

The Sultan's annual expenses, including building, fur- 
niture, and the repairs of the palaces of Top Kapou, 
Yeni Serai (the Seraglio), Beshiktash, Tcheraghfin, Beg- 
lerbcy, Khiat Khana, and the numerous kioshks on both 
sides of the Bosphorus, arc estimated at two hundred and 
fifty thousand purses* (about 1.200,000/.), equivalent to 

• A purse consists of five hundred piastre?, equalling an average of 
4/. 12s., but generally taken in round numbers at •">/. The total r. vinue 
of the empire, passing through the finance minister's hands, is calculated 
at nearly six millions sterling. 



IMPERIAL HAREM. 21) 

a fifth of the total revenues of the empire, and exceeding 
the supposed civil list by nearly 900,000/. But there 
are no means of verifying this statement, nor can the 
expense of one year be taken as the criterion of another. 
Much depends upon the caprice of the Monarch, who 
may erect palaces, kioshks, and mosques, or purchase 
jewels and furniture, without other control than the 
impossibility of procuring money or credit. Some idea 
may be formed of these incidental expenses from the 
asserted fact, that the additions, resetting, and loss of 
diamonds, on the dolman worn by Sultan Abdoul Med- 
jid, at the ceremony of Mevlood (Prophet's nativity), 
on the 12th April, 1843, exceeded 40,000/. 

The whole household is under the control of the Khassa 
Mushiry (marshal of palace), and is divided into distinct 
departments. Each of these has its separate budget, and 
vouchers are demanded on all sides. But excuses are 
constantly found for augmenting the prescribed expendi- 
ture. Contractors, purveyors, architects, comptrollers, 
servants, and tradesmen, in a word, every man, high or 
low, is leagued against the treasurer's coffers, and each 
contrives means to abstract greater or less sums for his 
own use. 

A list of the twenty-four great officers placed near the 
Sultan's person was given in the preceding chapter. With 
the exception of the marshal, who is a minister of state, 
and third in rank at present in the empire, none of these 
officers are considered as holding government offices. 
They have no voice in public deliberations, and enjoy no 
privilege or precedence detached from the Monarch's 



30 IMPERIAL IIAREM. 

person. Those, however, termed mabainjee, constitute 1 
camarilla, frequently exercising most prejudicial influence 
over the Sultan, and thence over national counsels. 

These persons, intent alone upon maintaining them- 
selves and friends in favour, acknowledge QO political 
system, no fixed baaifl of action, no patriotism. The 
cycle of their meditation! and exertions revolves around 
themselves. It is this narrow-minded egotism which 
facilitates outward pressure, augments internal weakness, 
and renders steady administration impracticable. The 
sole object of men in power is to retain their places by 
sacrificing public welfare to private gain. Tho solo 
ambition of men out of office Ifl to expel those in posses- 
sion, no matter how great their abilities or how pre-emi- 
nent their administrative qualities. To these influences 
may be traced the fatalities of Turkish mispwernincnt, 
and the predisposing causes of those alternations of pas- 
sionate enemy and humiliating concession, which cha- 
racterise the counsels and actions of the Porte. 



PORCELAIN-DEALERS. 



31 




1. MUJAVVEZA; 2. KHORASSANV; 3. SERDENGUETCHDY-SARIGHY*. 
(turbans OF DIFFERENT KINDS SEEN ON TOMBSTONES.) 



CHAPTER II. 

PORCELAIN -DEALERS. 

On re-entering the bazars by the gate opposite to the 
Noory Osmanya Mosque, a picturesque succession of 
vaulted roofs presents itself. This long and spacious 
street is divided into several distinct markets, designated 
after the trades located on either side. 

The first shops are those of Armenian and Greek fin- 
janjelar (cup or porcelain dealers), principally trafficking 

* Serdenguetchdy (lost heads) elite cohorts of janissaries. 



32 PORCELATN-DEA] I 

in crockery, cutlery, and hardwares. Divers articles of 
this class, considered essential t" European convenience, 
unknown at Constantinople until lately, are gradually 
creeping into use. The business of this esnaf i- therefore 
increasing, and the rapidity of communication with 
Hungary and the Upper Danube, by means <>f steam 
navigation, enables Germany to supply the trade with 
facility and economy. 

It is to the patriotic exertions of Count Zecheny of 
Pesth that Austria and adjacent b1 <■ mainly in- 

debted for the advantages now derived from that great 
artery, over whose tower branches Russia tained 

a quasi sovereignty, and this through the timorous 
policy of the Cabinet, to whom the uncontrolled liberty 
of the mighty Danube must be of vital importance. In 
lieu of stimulating the vigilance of Austria, the British 
government has recently encouraged its supiueness, and 
thus laid the foundation for unavoidable embarrassments 
at no distant period. The pretext advanced in Parlia- 
ment for this dangerous complacency was the superior 
and more contiguous interests of the Vienna Cabinet. 
But the collateral interests of Great Britain in Turkey 
arc equal, if not superior, to the direct interests of 
Austria; and England must eventually seek to recover, by 
negotiation or force, that which might have been retained 
peaceably by more manly and independent diplomacy*. 

* Sir S. Canning is said to have urged hie Government to uphold the 
Porte in its recent discussion with Russia on the Servian question. 
This would, probably, have been proved had the correspondence and 
papers relative to this question been laid before Parliament. 



PORCELAIN-DEALERS. 33 

Austria, pre-occupied with her Italian possessions, lias 
shrunk from stemming the encroachments of Russia on 
the right hank of the Danube, even as she shrunk from 
resisting similar encroachments on the left. The result 
is, that Russia is not only mistress of the sole navigable 
mouth of the Danube, at Sulina, but can command the 
course of the river from the outskirts of Belgrade to the 

CD 

vicinity of Widdin on one side, and from New Orsova to 
the Black Sea upon the other. This may be of little 
import during peace; but who can calculate upon the 
duration of general tranquillity, when the repose of Europe 
solely depends upon the life of one aged and illustrious 
sovereign — nay perhaps upon the ascendency of one 
able and prudent minister in the French Chambers ! 

When statesmen legislate, they are bound to think of 
posterity, although they may be indifferent to the diffi- 
culties bequeathed to immediate successors. Be this as 
it may, Great Britain cannot permit further encroach- 
ments upon the heart of European Turkey without 
causing irreparable injury to her best interests, or without 
sowing the seeds of expensive and hazardous wars*. 

The monopoly of supplying crockery and hardwares 
formerly enjoyed by England has been broken down. 
Germans now undersell us. They appear also to be 
more careful in exporting articles well suited to the tastes 
and usages of the populations. The majority of their 



* Mr. Louis Blanc, an avowed republican, and the most prejudiced 
England-hater that ever attempted to write history, is fain to admit the 
skill of our resolute Eastern policy in 1840 and 1841, by which Egypt 
was rescued from France. See his Histoire de Dix Ans. 

c 3 



34 PORCELAIN-DEALERS. 

merchants likewise consign their goodfl to Greek or 
Armenian houses under Russian protection; hy which 
means consignees can deliver merchandise to retail 
dealers 2 per cent, cheaper than English merchants, or 
indeed than any other commissioners, native or foreign. 
This results from the differential advantage! obtained by 
Russia, in virtue of her treaty or tariff of I BJ '_'. 

This treaty, renewed in 1843] is declared by British 
merchants at Galata to be so prejudicial as to render it 
impossible for them to compete with those enjoying 
Russian protection. In fact, from this and other con- 
tingent causes, there remain no English houses of _'reat 
eminence at Galata, save that of Messrs. Hanson, who 
deal largely with Persia. 

Nevertheless, when the British commercial convention 
was concluded with the Porte in L838, it was universally 
approved of by English mercantile men, and was con- 
sidered so advantageous, compared with ancient tariffs 
and conventions, that it was adopted, nearly textually, 
as a model of treaties subsequently negotiated by France, 
Spain, Naples, Belgium, and the Hanse Towns. But tho 
differential exceptions granted to Russia, which it was 
supposed would not have been renewed by the Porte at 
their expiration in 1842-3; have rendered a revision of our 
tariff indispensable; and the more so since the number of 
merchants trading under Russian protection has aug- 
mented twenty-fold since the ratification of the original 
Russian treaty. 

England is entitled, by the convention of 1 838, to be 
placed upon the footing of the "most favoured nation." 



PORCELAIN-DEALERS. 35 

It remains to be seen, therefore, whether our merchants 
will petition Government to insist upon this clause, and 
thereby obtain modifications equivalent to the 2 per cent, 
granted to Russia; or whether they will resign them- 
selves to the influence of that differential pressure to 
which they mainly ascribe their decreasing prosperity. 
In the mean time it is admitted that British importers 
frequently consign their goods to houses under Russian 
protection, or are compelled to associate with or carry on 
business fro forma under the name of individuals enjoy- 
ing this advantage — a proceeding not only derogatory to 
national dignity and injurious to our commercial interests, 
but tending to expel all bona fide British houses from 
the Bosphorus, whilst it rapidly augments the influence 
of Russia over the Sultan's subjects*. 

The enterprise and energy of the Oriental and Penin- 
sula Steam Navigation Company have recently come in 
aid of our Levant merchants, although her Majesty's 
Government, leaving the post monopoly to France, has 
rejected the propositions of the directors. By rapidity 
and regularity of communication some facilities for com- 
petition, even under the foregoing disadvantages, have 
been obtained. But until our Government shall assist 

* Whilst these pages were in the press, Lord Beaumout brought this 
subject before the Lords. His clear and unanswerable statements, cor- 
roborating those in our text, were admitted to be correct by Lord 
Aberdeen. The latter observed, however, that hopes might be enter- 
tained of Russia ordering her minister to negotiate a convention similar 
to our own ! ! But can it be reasonably expected that Russia or any 
other power would forego advantages or abandon clauses that tend to 
augment her influence and increase her material prosperity ? Such dis- 
interestedness cannot be anticipated. 



3G PORCELAIN-DEALERS. 

the company, by granting to it the regular transport of 
mails at a fair price, freight must continue high and ex- 
penses undiminished*. In the mean time it is impossible 
to speak too highly of the spirited exertions of tho 
directors, or to praise in sufficient terms the skill of 
their commander.';, the good accommodation of their 
vessels, or the obliging attention of their agents, among 
whom Mr. Edmunds, of Malta, is most zealously con- 
spicuous. 

It is from the Finjanjelar that Persian merchants pur- 
chase a variety of goods for exportation. They bring to 
the Bosphorus, pipe-sticks, lamb-skins, carpets, shawls, 
tobacco, S:c, and take back crockery, hardware, cutlery, 
cloths, and cotton good-. These are generally shipped 
for Trebizonde in Austrian or Turkish steamers, and 
thence carried inland by Krzcroum and Tabriz. When 
purchasing large quantities, Persians deal direct with 
commission houses; but, under all circumstances, they 
are compelled to pay, or take to account, the I) per cent, 
ad valorem duty imposed on exports, unless the consignee 
be under Russian protection, when the tax is reduced to 
S per cent. Here again British traders, who pay 2 per 
cent, more on imports and 6 per cent, more on exports 
than Russian subjects, cannot stand competition with the 
latter, who, moreover, are enabled to introduce their 
merchandize into the Shah's dominions at 3 instead of ."> 
per cent. So that in fact Russia enjoys a difference on 

* The want of an English post-office at Galata is much complained 
of. We are now entirely dependent on France, which, as well as 
Russia and Austria, has her distinct post-office. 



PORCELAIN-DEALERS. 37 

imports and exports, in her transit dealings between 
Turkey and Persia, amounting- to 10 per cent*. 

Covered drinking cups and goblets of glass, with 
handles, are most in demand. When water is required, 
attendants present glasses on the palms of their right 
hands, as upon trays, and take off the covers with the 
left. They receive the glasses in the same manner when 
returned. But pasteboard trays are coming into general 
use. Covered glasses are reserved for water and sherbets. 
Khoshabs are served in china bowls and drunk with 
ornamented wooden spoons. Wine glasses are never 
produced, unless when dinner is served in the European 
fashion to Frank guests. When strangers are not pre- 
sent, all Osmanlis adhere to ancient customs; nor are 
exceptions always made when Europeans are invited. 
Students at the military, naval, and medical academies 
are, however, served with knives, forks, napkins, &c; 
and their tables are equal in neatness and order to those 
of the best organized schools in Europe. 

* According to the treaty concluded by Sir John M'Neil in 1841, the 
Persian government consents to admit British imports and exports upon 
the payment of one sole duty, and on the footing of the most favoured 
nation — nominally 5 per cent. But Russia, by means of secret conven- 
tions, is enabled to reduce the duties demanded of her subjects to 3 per 
cent. Sir J. M'Neil could not negotiate more skilfully; and it is not 
his fault if Russia maintains her differential advantages in Persia as she 
does and will do in Turkey. The Porte does not admit the system of 
transit at reduced rates. All goods passing through her territory 
must pay the import duty of 3, the inland or commutation of 2, and 
the export of 9 per cent. ; making altogether 14. If to this the 5 per 
cent, imposed in Persia be added, it will be seen that English bona fide 
goods pay 19 per cent, ad valorem when taken via. Turkey into Persia, 
whilst goods under Russian protection pay only 9. 



38 TENT-MAKERS. 

The next division of this street is tenanted on the 
south side by tchadirjee (tent-makers) ; opposite to them 
are the perdajee (arras or door-curtain makers). The 
former, exclusively Moslems, form a numerous corpora- 
tion. Persians ascriho the introduction of tents to 
Djemshid, and say that his wore of gold cloth, or richly- 
figured silks, lined with embroidered -tuffs; hut Con- 

ntinoplo tchadirjee venerate a cotemporary (>\' the 
Prophet's as their patron. He is said to hare been a 
Mecca Aral), who substituted strong canvas, painted 
green, for the camel-hair blankets that were previously 
employed. Tin- canvas was wove from the flax sold by 
Kadija. ^\'itli these materials Nassir limy Abdullah, 
•• the holy tent-maker."" manufactured tho first canvas 
tent ever seen in Arabia. He divided it into threo 
parts — one at the back for the harem, a second in the 
ccntro for the mabain, and the front for the salamlyk. 
By a convenient arrangement, he encircled these com- 
partments with a passage, serving as a ventilator and 
mode of communication, without the necessity of passing 
through the front division. The poles were ornamented 
with coloured devices, masballas, and p - from the 

Kooran, and the interior was lined with rich draperies, 
carpets, and mats. 

This tent was presented to Mohammed during the 
second year of the Hegira. It obtained for Nas.sir Ibny 
Abdullah the Prophet's favour, and an a.-surance that he 
should be rewarded, by reposing within the green tents 
that are pitched underneath the golden-branched tree of 
Paradise. 



TENT-MAKERS. 39 

It was not the Prophet's custom to lodge all his wives 
under the same tent. Each had her separate establish- 
ment within the general inclosure or screen that en- 
circled his desert dwellings. Ayesha, his favourite, was 
alone privileged to inhabit the same tent with her hus- 
band, and this subsequent to her somewhat equivocal 
adventure between Medina and Mecca. It is to this 
ancient practice of allowing each wife a separate tent 
that we may trace the existing custom of assigning to 
wives, where plurality exists, a separate house, if de- 
manded, or, at all events, a distinct floor and suite of 
apartments. But this law is seldom enforced. 

In the rare instances of polygamy known at Con- 
stantinople, such persons as avail themselves of the legal 
latitude are mostly wealthy men, having vast mansions, 
where there is abundant room for the separate establish- 
ments of two or more wives. Moreover, it generally 
occurs, where there are more than one wife, that these 
ladies live on good terms, and are more disposed to unite 
in establishing joint ascendency over their husband than 
to quarrel, separate, and thus enable him to put in force 
the old maxim of divide et impera. It is impossible, 
however, to reconcile this fraternity or copartnership 
with our notions of domestic concord; indeed those few, 
who may be thus doubly or perhaps trebly provided for, 
are said to be infinitely less happy and less at liberty 
than the majority who have only one helpmate. 

The tents in use for the army are of uniform size, 
bell-shaped, and painted green for soldiers and company 
officers. Marquees are issued to field and superior 



40 TENT-MAKERS. 

officers. Those of Pashas are commodious, and divided 
into three or more apartments, with double linings and 
ventilating corridors, which temper heat, ward off 
moisture, and serve as dormitories for attendant-. Some 
of these marquees arc thirty feet in length, and propor- 
tionately wide. The difficulty of striking and transport- 
ing rach cumbrous equipage, with an army, accounts for 
the .slow progress of the Turkish masses, and f<>r the 
losses they sustain if defeated. 

The imperial camp equipage, the greater portion of 
which was employed upon th<' day of the grand review 
at Fanar B I - . ii upon a most extensive and 

splendid Bcale. Some I e round, and supported by 

one lofty pole: others oblong, and held up l>y three or 
more poles. S >me an a, others stri] ed red and 

white, or blue and white, and surmounted by crimson 
pennons or golden en scent-. The imperial tent is 

always raised upon a platform, ami close to it is a 
crinison marquee of peculiar shape, serving a- a with- 
drawing cabinet. Those of the harem are invariably 
surrounded with a screen ten or twelve feel high. 

A tent of this kind was provided for the Valida Sul- 
tana on the extreme right flank. A portion of the front 
was left open, so that the Sultana and her ladies could 
have a full view of the military spectacle. All these 
tents were lined with rich draperies. The poles were 
fantastically pit and painted; carpets, made expressly to 
fit, covered the floors: divans, sofas, and chairs, were 
placed around ; and tables loaded with haskets of fruit 
and refreshments occupied the corners. The Sultan's 



GARRISON OF CONSTANTINOPLE. 41 

reception chamber^ approached by five or six steps, had, 
however, no other furniture than a canopy, a small 
table covered with embroidered cloth, and a narrow foot 
carpet ; the rest of the floor was concealed by fine 
matting. 

The camp equipage of the Sultan and army forms a 
heavy item of expenditure, both for the civil list and 
war department. The latter is under the direction of 
the store-keeper general (djebkhana naziry), and the tent 
inspector (tchadir emini), whose stores are on the 
western side of the Hippodrome, opposite to Sultan 
Achmet. It being an invariable custom to place troops 
of all arms under canvass during the hot months, the 
camp equipage is constantly kept complete. 

With the exception of about four thousand men dis- 
tributed in the different koulooks (guard-houses), and a 
portion of the artillery and cavalry, the remainder of 
the large garrison quit their barracks about the middle 
of May, and remain in camp until the end of October. 
The battalions and squadrons quartered at Scutari oc- 
cupy a camp on the brow of the hills, on either side of 
the valley of Haidar Pasha, where they find good water, 
some shade, and constant fresh air from the sea. The 
troops at Ramiz Tchiflik, above Eyoub, and those in 
the city barracks, go under canvass on the heights round 
the former; whilst those occupying the great barracks 
of Daoud Pasha are encamped upon the contiguous 
plain. The last two camp grounds are most unhealthy 
and unfit for the purpose. There is no shade. The 
men are exposed alternately to the full heat of the sun. 



42 GARRISON OF CONSTANTINOPLE. 

and to the sharp northern winds ; the dust is intolerable, 
and the water had and distent. The number of rick is 
consequently equal to that when they ere in barracks ; 
except during tho most unhealthy months, February and 
March, when it amounts to twelve per cent, or more, 
especially among the red if (militia). 

On the return of the troops into (routers, the camp 
equipage is delivered by the kol aghast] (majors or 
accountant-) of each battalion to the alai emini (regi- 
mental quarter-master), and he returns the whole of tho 
issued tents to the tdiadir-khana (tent store), where 
they are repaired an laid l>y. Damages arc not paid hy 
the soldiers, hut missing tentfl are charged to tho 
colonel's account. In this, u in every other branch of 
the puhlic service, however, the system of peculation is 
unlimited. The bin bashy (battalion oommandant) 
commences by returning forty men moro than arc ac- 
tually present under arms, and thereby obtains three or 
four extra tents from the alai' emini. The mir alai 
(colonel) doubles this false return, so that between 
colonels and ehiei's of battalions, some fifteen or twenty 
extra tents are obtained per regiment, half of which aro 
not returned. The colonel's account is charged with the 
deficit, which charge he throws upon his subordinates, 
of whom here and there an example may be made; 
but in general, payment and punishment are both 
evaded. 

Having mentioned the koulooks, it must be observed 
that guards are not relieved daily. Whole regiments or 
battalions are employed for these duties, and are scat- 



GARRISON OF CONSTANTINOPLE. 43 

tered through the different guard-houses of the quarter, 
where they remain six, nine, or twelve months, at the 
will of the serasker. Each koulook is provided with 
two chambers, one for the men and another for the 
officer, or sergeant. They have their mattresses, blankets, 
a few pitchers for ablution and drinking, two or three 
copper kettles for dressing food and washing linen, and a 
portable iron stove. The latter, placed outside, is used 
for boiling coffee and soup. The buildings are generally 
of wood, neatly ornamented. Those outside the city are 
adorned with small gardens, or, at all events, with a few 
shrubs and flowers in pots. The culture of these 
appears to be the principal solace of men and officers, 
during their tedious hours of repose. The arms are 
placed in a rack outside, and are kept bright and ser- 
viceable. A few axes, water-buckets, and long poles 
armed with iron hooks, are affixed to the walls in 
readiness for fires. 

There are generally two sentry-boxes near the door, 
as it is the practice to put on double sentinels ; the one 
a nefir (private) the other an on bashy (corporal). The 
sentries are never detached from the guard-house. They 
stand or sit close to the door in listless attitudes, slip- 
shod, and enjoying the most unlimited freedom of po- 
sition, and generally of dress. It sometimes occurs, how- 
ever, that a smart tchaoosh will fall upon a slovenly 
soldier, and punish him severely for neglect. In that 
case, blows and gross language are not spared. It is 
much more common, however, to see officers as negligent 
and apathetic as their men, and to hear the former 



44 GARRISON OF CONSTANTINOPLE. 

address the latter with the sympathetic terms of djanum 
(my soul), or koozum (my lamb). 

The garrison being concentrated in four or five Great 
barracks, tho above-mentioned distribution of whole 
battalions or regiments in koulooks is found more con- 
venient, and saves shoe-leather — a desideratum in a 
service where the issues of shoes arc irregular, and tin 
when issued, arc forthwith converted into slippers; ai 
no soldier can enter the guard-house without Leaving his 
Bhoes under the porch. It results, however, from this 
Bystem that the men are scarcely ever drilled, even to 
company work, and that, with the exception of tho 
common manual exi at which they arc all ex] 

they know nothing of a Boldier's duty, and have nothing 
of a soldier".- carriage or manly bearing. This r< mark is 
applicable both to guards, line, and militia, which latter 
arc only to be distinguished by their wearing beards and 
black cross-belt^, and being poorly and coarsely clothed. 

It may not be irrelevant at this moment to introduce 
returns of the garrison of ' l the well guarded city,* 1 as it 
existed in lM-i'; showing the barracks occupied by the 
different corps, and the number of men in each*. 

* Strength of a Regiment of Infantry, of four Battalions, 
( TaboorJ. 

Regimental Staff. 

1 Colonel (niir alai). 

1 Lieutenant-Colonel (kaimakan). 

1 Quarter Master (alai eminy). 

Each battalion consists of eight companies, having 

1 Bin Bashy (commandant). 

2 Kol Aghassy (wing aghas, or majors, not mounted). 



GARRISON OF CONSTANTINOPLE. 45 

Garrison of Stambol in 1842. . 
Imperial Guard* under Riza Pasha, {Field Marshal, Khassa Mitshiry.) 

Harracks. Men. Horses. 

! ,. . a . . r 2,500 c. and a. 1.900 

Sehmya, at Scutari . J. ' ' 

J ' 1 2,500 i. 

Toptash (cannon stone) idem . . 1,000 c. . . 900 

Geumish Souy, (silver water), at 

Dolma Baghtshy . . . 1,000 i. 

Gul Khana, (rose chamber), inside 

Seraglio walls .... 1,600 c. . . 1,500 
Serai Bournou, behind Seraglio Point, 

within the palace gardens . . 1,200 u 
In different Koulooks on the Bos- 

phorus 1,500 

In other guard houses . . . 1,800 







13,100 




Each compam 


(beuluk) has 


1 


Yooz Bashy (captain). 




2 


Mulazem (subalterns). 




1 


Tchaoosh Bashy (sergeant- 


major). 


4 


Tchaoosh (sergeants). , 




8 


On Bashy (corporals). 




1 


Beuluk Emmy (clerk, or fourier). 


1 


Saka (water-carrier). 




1 


Drummer. 




1 


Fifer. 




80 


Nefer (privates). 




100 







4,300 









There are no regimental or battalion adjutants. The kaimakan per- 
forms the duties of the first, and the kol aghassy of the second. Each 
regiment has a numerous and tolerable band. 

* The Imperial Guard consists of three regiments of infantry, three 
battalions each; one regiment redif, of three battalions; four regiments 
of cavalry, lancers, and hussars; one battalion (eight companies), sixty- 
four pieces of artillery, of which only half are horsed. The initials I. C. 
and A. indicate Infantry, Cavalry, and Artillery. 






Men. 




linnet. 


3,000 


• » 


1. 








60Q 






100 







46 GARRISON OF CONSTANTINOPLE. 

Artillery and Engineers under Mohammed AH J'aiha, Field Mar il,*l, 
and Director of Artillery (Topthy Bftuhirp), 

Barnrk*. 
Bey Oglou, (Pera) 
Topliana and Guard-bouses . 
Koombcrkliana, near aJMnsJj 1.. ,m- 

bardiexB, artificers, and engu 
Bosphoras batfe t . 

1. 100 1,000 

Z-i/j/- and lifdif ( Mi Ufa j umitr Sirafkcr. 

Serasker Kapoossy, Of Wag ' 

the ancient . . 4.000 

Dmond Pasha .... 3,033 

Etamii Tefaiflik .... 3,800 

At Mai'l.uiy. old JaStflarf barracks 1,003 
Koulooks in city .... 2,600 

Do. in Galata and Pan . BOO 

B q thorns KuulcuL.-> . . . 7"" 
Detached ordcii . . . 600 



11,000 

.i/'/ri/j ( \>- tmdtr Tiihir Pasha, Orand Admiral*. 

Tenhana 1,800 

Guard-hooai tin E Pi iba and 

the small cemetery, &«. . . 800 

Sailor^ afloat in liarbour, or in bar- 
racks at srnmsl . . . .*■ 





7,600 


npitulat, 






■f Imperial Guar 


. 13,100 


X Artillery and Engineers 


. 


Line and Militia 


. •_' l.OIKI 


Marines . 


. 3,000 


§ ^Sailors 


. 5,500 



}lor«n. 

I 

1,000 



Total Garrison ashore and afloat . 40,000 6^300 

" The present Grand Admiral is Ilalil Pasha. 

7 Two regiments of the Guard were detached in Syria, these com- 



GARRISON OF CONSTANTINOPLE. 47 

It will be seen from the above that Constantinople 
possesses eleven large barracks, of which those of Daoud 
Pasha and Ramiz Tchiflik, west of the city walls, Pera 
and Scutari, are the most extensive, and in fact far surpass 
in magnitude almost all buildings of the kind to bo met 
with in Europe. That of the latter, called Selimya after 
its founder Selim III, is the most remarkable, and forms 
one of the most important features in the surrounding 
gorgeous landscape. It is situated immediately opposite 
to the mosque of its founder, and crowns the heights con- 
tiguous to the sea. It consists of a vast oblong square of 
three stories, flanked with four lofty towers. It is pierced 
with upwards of two thousand windows, and could con- 
veniently quarter twelve thousand men and four thousand 
horses. These barracks are kept in excellent order, and 
the dormitories are remarkable for cleanliness. Iron bed- 
steads have been introduced, and a severe internal police 
is maintained. 

Having so far deviated from my course I will venture 
to move a step farther, in order to point out the resources 
provided for the sick belonging to this large garrison. 
This can be done by giving a list of the different military 
hospitals, with the total beds in each, and the number 
of sick at two recent periods. 



prised three thousand men, so that the whole Guard may be taken at 
fifteen thousand men, of which three thousand nine hundred are cavalry, 
and one thousand two hundred artillery. 

% Of these, four batteries (thirty-two pieces), fully horsed, and four 
half batteries, (sixteen pieces) also horsed. 

§ The total number of sailors amounted to eight thousand, of whom 
two thousand five hundred were at sea. 






43 (.ARRISON OF CONSTANTINOPLE 



HOSFn . 






Imperial Guard. 








. 




Top Kapon, fronl i. to tlio south- 






ward of Seraglio Point .... 




. . Ill 


Top Tash, Scutari 


1 


. . 23S 


Therapia ....-•• 


100 


. . '■>! 




lot 


' 






ma ...... 


MM 


. . 1 64 


. 




building. 



r00 164 



' 'ilia. 



Mall • Pacha and Bamia 

Tchil 1 1,218" 

Sera&l ..... 400 

Iplik Kh.ina Eyoub . 180 under r 









1,850 








Marine find .Y»/r»/. 






' 


Bt 1 nnitri and Piali P 


'i . 


. 2M 






ipiliitah 






1 


• 


. . • . • 


; i . 


. 404 


Artilli ry 


. 


• . • . . 


TOO . 


. 154 


J. . &C. 


. 


. 


1,580 . 


. 1,484 


Marine and Navy 





1 . 


. 258 



tal 2,450 206 

It results from this tliat tlio rick, actually in hospital] 

did not exceed o per cent. But this must not be taken 

* The sickness was so great among tlio young troops, that two hun- 
dred beds were added, and placed on the floor. At the period in quefl 
tun this hospital presented a deplorable spectacle, but it has much 
improved under the inspection of J' ci rs Bernhard, Spitzer, and H<r- 
man, who have been appointed inspectors, and are aided by other Au^triau 
or German physicians in the service of the Forte. 



GARRISON OF CONSTANTINOPLE. 49 

as an index of the general state of health. Turkish 
soldiers entertain an insuperable repugnance to enter an 
hospital; therefore, so long as they are not absolutely 
prostrated by disease, they rarely complain. Indeed, 
when unable to do duty, two-thirds are allowed to hang 
about the barracks or guard-houses. There is no rigid 
medical inspection, and, as the greater number of sick 
suffer from gastric maladies, thev continue to linger, until 
they are in most cases carried to hospital to be taken out 
corpses. 

The hospitals of the Guards, under the superintendence 
of a ka'imakan (Ekhia Bey), are remarkable for their clean- 
liness and systematic arrangements; but the remainder 
are deficient in many essential respects, especially that of 
Maltape. Some improvement has, however, been made 
by its director, Emin Bey, and the German physicians 
under his orders. Yet, notwithstanding the neglect of 
the higher authorities, the malversation of subordinates, 
and the ignorance of Turkish medical practitioners, the 
mortality is less than might be supposed. The two fol- 
lowing returns of the three hospitals of the Guards, and 
of that of Maltape, will afford an example. 

Sick return of Imperial Guard for the month of Moharrem, 1258. 
C between 10th of January, and \Qth of February, 1842,). 



it •. i lAemain irom t?..»«» 
Hospitals. ,. Enter. 
r previous month. 


Cured. Died- 


Remain. 


Top-Kapou ... 69 . . 108 


. . 12 . . 12 . 


. . 119 


Top-Tash .... 179 . . 233 


. . 189 . . 20 , 


. . 203 


Therapia .... 40 . . 127 


. : 116 . . 7 ', 


> . 44 



288 468 317 39* 306 

* This gives 4f th per cent, deaths on seven hundred and fifty-six sick. 
VOL. III. D 



Remain. 


Enter. 


I'm 




1st July, 805 . 


. 45 . 


. M . . 


1 


2nd July, 785 . 


. 30 . 


• Ml • • 


5 



50 GARRISON OF CONSTANTINOPLE. 

Militia Hospital ut Maltapi M 14 md M ./»/«/, II 

l!rm»in. 

. 786 
. 7W 

This gives the average deaths at three, and consequently 

at scarcely }, per cent.. but this was in the healthi 
month. Whereas, when 1 visited Maltape. in the month 
of Muharrcm of the nme year, the number in hospital 
exceeded twelve hundred, and the deaths averaged thirty 

per day; so that the Imam and his attendant, wh 
duty it was to wash the dead, itated that he must apply 
to the Serasker for additional aid, in order to enable him 

to perforin his sorrowfnl office. During the month in 
question the Imam buried nearly nine hundred men. 
It lias hecn omitted to mention, that the whole- me- 
dical department is under the superintendence of the 
Hekim Bashy, who is profoundly ignorant of the 
therapeutic art, and nearly so of the principles of □ 
dical administration. But we have been carried far 
away from our course, so let us return to less painful 
subjects. 

Tent-makers also manufacture the cloth hangings, 
(kapoossy perda), generally suspended before the doors 
of apartments, communicating with corridors and ante- 
chambers. These perda are held in their position by 
wooden rods, which stretch and prevent them from being 
blown aside. They are made of coloured cloths, orna- 
mented with other pieces of cloth, cut in imitation of 
flowers and arabesques, and stitched with gold thread or 
coloured silks, Common perda have merely a border, or 



GARRISON OF CONSTANTINOPLE. 51 

scroll, and do not cost more than eighty or one hundred 
piastres; but those of finer quality are sometimes ex- 
tremely rich. Those used in the imperial harem are of 
the finest broad cloth, silk, or velvet, admirably embroi- 
dered and worked with dust pearls. There is no limit 
to their price. 

When guests arrive, the perdajee bashy, whose busi- 
ness it is to take care of and open these hangings, quickly 
lifts up and holds aside the perda. When visitors enter 
he allows it to fall into its usual position. In a country 
where there are no bells, and no other means of summon- 
ing domestics than by striking the hands, these curtains 
are convenient, and the more so as it is considered un- 
becoming to raise the voice for that purpose. 

The use of these heavy and expensive perda is gradually 
declining. They are no longer seen in the Sultan's public 
rooms, nor in those inhabited by him during the day. 
When curtains are required, they are generally made of 
silk, printed cottons, or other stuffs, and are attached to 
the inside of the door in the same manner as window or 
door curtains in Europe. 

Next to the tent and curtain-makers are rows of shops 
occupied by Moutafjee, who manufacture horse-hair girths, 
rugs, halters, picket-cords, sacks, saddle and nose-bags, 
and other coarse articles for beasts of burden. They form 
a branch of the grand saddlers' guild, but are considered 
in the same relation to the latter as cobblers to shoe- 
makers. 

Passing onward we come to shops tenanted by Arme- 
nians and Greeks, dealers in muslins, cambrics, plain and 

d2 



52 DULBEND TCIIARSHY, 

printed cotton?, merinos, ribbons, threads, buttons, and 
divers similar articles of European manufacture, the 
greater part of which are German. This market is called 
Dnlhend Tenantry, from its having been the principal 
place for selling the muslin, wherewith dulbend (turbans) 
were, and are still made by those who retain the ancient 
costume. Collectively speaking, this handsome and 
typical head-gear may be looked upon as exploded among 
the higher classes. It- use is now limited to individuals 
connected with law and church. All civil functional 
both military and civil, are required to wear th«' plain 
regulation fes. 

The turbans now worn by the superior Oolema coi 
of a Barik, or long strip of line white muslin neatly rolled, 
or rather plaited, round the red skull cap. and crossing 
in front, with one end hanging :t few inches down the 

back, in imitation of that of the Prophet, Called K.iook. 

The Sheikh Islam, and fir- g Oolema, wear ;t small 

strip of gold fringe placed diagonally in front; but tin* 
turbans of Sheikhs and all other Oolema are plain. 
Inferior priests, lawyers, and students wear a similarly 
formed sarik of coarse muslin, cambric, or cotton, gene- 
rally the latter. Great personages have a sarikjee (turban- 
dresser) in their household, who arranges the muslin, bo 
that the turban may he put on at once, and each Ins 
many changes. Hut inferior persons generally employ 
their barber, or the office is performed by women 
slaves. 

Before the destruction of the Janissaries, the various 
turbans that distinguished each grade of society were 



TURBAN-MARKET. 53 

strictly defined and adhered to. The sarikjee then 
formed a numerous and influential company, and, from 
their direct access to the privacy of the great, were 
powerful rivals of the barbers, of whose trade they formed 
a branch. Their patron was Joseph, son of Jacob. He 
is supposed to have invented the globe-shaped turban, 
called Youseffy, when he was appointed Vizir over Egypt. 
Turbans worn by shopkeepers consist of several coils of 
mixed cotton and woollen stuff, in white and brown 
shades, with one end hanging over the ear, or down the 
back. Those used by the common people are of coarse 
linen, or cheap imitation shawl. 

Much variety is displayed by the latter in the mode of 
adjusting their sarik, which are generally twisted several 
times round the head in loose and broad coils, so as to 
form a cone. In the Asiatic provinces, some of these 
turbans are of ponderous width and height. Generally 
speaking, the working classes set aside the sarik for 
Fridays and holydays, and merely twist a coloured hand- 
kerchief round the fez, in order to distinguish them from 
the Kayas, who are restricted to the use of black or dark 
blue wrappers. Green sarik are the exclusive privilege 
of the Prophet's kin, whether descending in the paternal 
or maternal line. Hundreds of the meanest and poorest 
heads may be seen enveloped with these green sjmbols 
of "nobility." 

Turbans are the exclusive head-dress of the male sex; 
therefore, when our ladies wind white muslin or figured 
stuffs round their fair brows, under the impression of 
imitating Sultanas and beauteous Odaliks, let them know 



54 BTT-BAZAJLY, 

that they are merely copying the head-dress of toothless 
mollahs or tattered students*. 

The only records now remaining of the did turbans, 
worn by Sultans, grand dignitaries, and other individuals, 
military or civil, are to be nut. with in cemeteries. Of 
these our vignette represents ton Bat we 

shall defer this subject till wo treat of tombston 

Leaving the gate called Kalpakjelar (cap-makers), on 
the left, we find the next portion occupied by Kawaf 
(shoe-makers), who tell the O of the trade 

to the frequenters of the contiguous "Loose" l">axar. 
At th'' mity of the Bhoesnakers 1 limits, Kalpakjelar 

Tcharshy is into I :it right angles by a branch of 

Ozoon (Ion::) market, which latter terminates at Byt 
Baaary ( 'ate. This gate conducts to an open space, which, 
as well as the covered market to the right, derives its 
unpleasant name from being the place for sale of cast-off 
garments and second-hand articles of every denomination. 
On the death of individuals and consequent division of 
property among heirs, or upon seizure and legal sale, their 
arms, clothes, saddlery, and furniture arc here disposed of 
by auction. 

The Byt Bazary company, mostly ex-janissaries and 
bostanjees, have their kihaya, inspectors, and criers. 
Notwithstanding the nature of their dealings, they aro 
generally wealth}-, and frequently expose for sale, dresses, 
shawls, girdles, and pelisses, of great beauty and freshness. 

" Hadji, or men who have performed the pilgrimage, are not dis- 
tinguished by any peculiar turban. They are entitled, however, to wear 
the beard under all circumstances, except in the SulUin's household. 



MARKET FOR SECOND-HAND CLOTHES. 55 

As pawnbrokers* shops and monts de piete do not exist, 
people, hard pressed for ready money, frequently pledge 
their goods to obtain it, without infringing as they sup- 
pose the laws against usury. For instance, they say, 
"Here is a pelisse, worth one thousand piastres — I will 
sell it to you for five hundred, on condition that I may re- 
purchase it for the same sum within a given period." The 
merchant says, "I agree," and delivers a receipt. If the 
seller can afford to repurchase within the stated period, 
he refunds the money, adding perhaps ten or twenty per 
cent, as a present. If, on the other hand, the repurchase 
is not effected within the time specified, the merchant 
retains the article, and generally sells it at fair profit. 
This enables customers to make good bargains in this 
bazar. 

This is not the only way in which the usury laws are 
evaded. The Government itself shows the example of 
infringing the precepts, by which usury is declared to be 
an unpardonable sin. The mode adopted upon this occa- 
sion is as follows: — Supposing an individual to possess a 
sum which he does not care to leave unfructifying in his 
coffers. There being no public funds or banks, of which 
he can obtain interest, he carries this sum to the Treasury, 
and proposes to lend it to Government, on the payment 
of certain interest, varying from 'ten to twelve per cent, 
according to amount, age of lender, and nature of the 
contract. 

The principal and invariable stipulation of the latter 
is a renouncement of all right to withdraw the capital; 
the sum lent thus becomes the absolute property of the 



56 BYT-BAZARY, 

State, which merely engages to pay interest during one or 
more lives. Contractors may, however, sell or transfer 
their life tenancy, but this must lie done by hand to hand 
deed, and not by will. This often occurs, and in most 
cases rich Armenian hankers become the purchasers. 
In that case, the buyer's name is registered, aa entitled 
to receive the interest for his life, and he can dispose of 
it in a similar manner. Thil8, by means of hereditary 
succession and transfer, the capita] often continues to pay 
exorbitant interest during a century or more. 

It more frequently occurs, however, that conscientious 
Turks retain their right of interest until the last moment, 
and consider transfer as an act of dishorn sty. The 
system, if properly regulated, might be turned to good 
account, but, in this instance, as in mosl others, the Turk- 
ish Government shows a deplorable ignorance of financial 
operations, and whilst it infringes the most sacred laws 
and precepts for mercenary and even unholy purposes, 
obstinately refuses to adopt innovations that tend to 
financial and moral advantage. It will be remarked, 
however, that these transactions do not constitute a debt, 
and that the vicissitudes of human life represent a favour- 
able sinking fund. The contracts are, in fact, mere races 
between lenders who are mortal, and the Government 
which is comparatively imperishable. The balance on 
the whole may therefore be in favour of the latter. 

The outer portion of the Bvt Bazary is surrounded 
with small shops, and vaults underneath, tenanted by the 
poorest class of sergetjee, who deal in cast-oft* odds and 
ends, too numerous to admit of description. Poor people 



MARKET FOR SECOND-HAND CLOTHES. 57 

here pick up divers articles suited to their wants. Here 
brokers sell by auction old clothes, arms, linens, and bed 
furniture — all breathing pestilence and covered with filth 
and vermin. The space is always thronged by soldiers, 
porters, ass-drivers, workmen, and poor old women, and 
is more frequented than the inner or covered Byt Bazary, 
which consists of a narrow alley, having stalls on either 
side, surmounted with poles, on which the goods are 
suspended. Here every article of wearing apparel, that 
eastern luxury or fancy can invent, may be met with 
second-hand. Purification, in the event of purchase, is 
essential, and in time of pestilence the vicinity of the 
Byt-Bazary ought to be avoided by all those who do not 
belong to the hazardous sect of non-contagionists. 

It is now affirmed that, in the event of Constantinople 
being visited by the plague, Byt-Bazary will be closed, 
and all second-hand articles, susceptible of conveying 
disease, seized and burned*. • This regulation, if adhered 
to, cannot fail to prove beneficial. External quarantine 
restrictions contribute, no doubt, to ward off the scourge ; 
but, so long as the Byt-Bazary and other channels of 
propagation are permitted to exist, its duration and 
intensity, when once imported, must daily receive fresh 
aliment. 

Unfortunately, the most essential point connected 
with quarantine regulations appears to be neglected. 

* Articles held to be most susceptible of communicating contagion 
are animal substances, coins, hot bread, silks, woollens, cottons, and 
furs, especially those of cats. Water is held to be a neutralizer of the 
evil, and wood a nonconductor. Intense heat is likewise an indubitable 
purifier, as proved by recent interesting experiments at Alexandria. 

d3 



58 POSITION AND CLIMATE 

Measures are taken to prevent the introduction of the 
dreaded malady; but nothing is done to purify the city, 
or to render the most populous parti less susceptible of 
inoculation, propagation, or self-generation. The filth 
accumulated in the most frequented q u ar ter s, at oertain 
points near tho harbour, are of themselves sufficient to 
produce spontaneous pestilence. This evil might 1"' 
remedied, 1st, by enforcing external cleanliness, and espe- 
cially in the Christian and Jewish quarters, the most 
filthy of the whole ; 2ndly, by the establishment of re- 
gular scavengers, whose duty is now principally | 
formed by dogs; and 3rdly, by widening the approach* 1 
to the water, and by laying down iron for carry- 

ing off the abominable accumulations to a distance of 
some twenty or thirty feet into the current. 

It must not be understood from this that tho city is 
unprovided with drains. All great streets and public 
places are undermined with 'vaulted sewers, connected 
with the houses by subsidiary drains. In no city is 
greater attention paid to certain internal and indispensable 
conveniences. But there is no public inspector of 
sewers or public ways in Stambol. The repairs of sub- 
sidiary conduits depend upon private individuals, and 
the great Bewers, which traverse the property of various 
wakoofs, are under the charge of these institutions. 

Some of these sewers were constructed by the 
Byzantines, and are of equal solidity and of the same 
materials as their cisterns. Others were established 
under successive Sultans by the administrations of 
mosques. Repairs are seldom required, or at all events 



OF CONSTANTINOPLE. 59 

enforced. When absolutely necessary, as recently oc- 
curred in the long street which we have just quitted, its 
proprietor, the wakoof of Sultan Bajazet, was reluct- 
antly induced to undertake the operation. The con- 
struction of the city is such, however, that little obstruc- 
tion takes place, and repairs are not often required, save 
when the conduits traverse horizontal quarters. Having 
almost daily visited divers portions of the city, I am 
able to affirm that the quarters inhabited by the Moslem 
population are far superior in cleanliness to those 
peopled by the Christians and Jews; and, taking one 
part with another, that the whole is less filthy than the 
finest towns in Sicily or Portugal. 

Nature has done more for the salubrity of Stambol 
than for any other great city. It is erected upon a 
succession of gentle eminences, the culminating points of 
which occupy a long ridge, intersecting the whole from 
east to west; while their flanks dip into the sea and 
the harbour, or descend into the Lykus rivulet, which 
divides the fifth and the sixth from the seventh hill. A 
constant current, fed by the waters of Ali Bey and 
Kihat Khana rivers, which unite in one stream about 
a mile above Eyoub, sets out of the tideless harbour at a 
moderate rate, and produces little backwater, unless 
when a continuation of southerly winds checks the flow 
from the Bosphorus, and, causing a shock between the 
waters of the channel and those of the Propontis, drives 
back a portion of the downward stream into the har- 
bour. 

On the other hand the current, running from the 



GO POSITION AND CLIMATE 

Black Sea, at an average of five miles aa hour, bears 
forcibly against Seraglio Point] and, sweeping by 

Tophana and the mouth of the Golden Horn, carries off 
any deposits that might otherwise accumulate, so that 
the outside waters are of crystal clearness at all 
season-. 

Upon an average, the north wind prevails at least 
three hundred out of three hundred and sixty-five 'lays, 
unless perhaps during an hour or two after dawn in 
summer, when the southerly breeze conies tempered 
from Olympus. The quantity of water that GUIs an- 
nually is fully adequate for all purposes of vegetation, 
as well as for the supply of the springs and rilK, which 
feed the Bends, and thence furnish the requisite nourish- 
ment to the taksim. Although the rains fall more 
abundantly in autumn and early spring than at any 
other season, they are not periodical. Sometimes, in- 
deed, they come down heavily, and during many days in 
summer, as occurred in August, 1843. At the same 
time there is a deficiency of night dew; thus vegetation 
upon the slopes soon becomes parched, and fruits and 
Vegetables, excepting those grown during the cold 
months, are insipid and ephemeral. 

The divisions of the year are seasonable. The winter, 
which commences about the end of December, is not 
severe. Snow falls, but it rarely rests upon the ground. 
Summer, when once set in, is steady and not over 
warm, and autumn admirably temperate and invigo- 
rating. Spring is, however, tardy, and the most un- 
pleasant of the four seasons. During this period and the 



OF CONSTANTINOPLE. 61 

end of winter, the piercing nortb, north- east, and 
north-west winds, appropriately called kara yell (black 
wind), sweep down from the Balkan, or across the Black 
Sea, iced by their passage over the Caucasus. But, as 
already shown, the medium temperature is moderate, 
and the vicinity not exposed to extremes of heat or 
cold. 

With all this, Constantinople is not a healthy place. 
Fevers, gastric affections, inflammatory complaints, and 
derangements of the digestive system, are prevalent. 
But this may be attributed to unwholesome and unsub- 
stantial food, and likewise to the sudden variations of 
temperature, which frequently mark a difference of 
thirty degrees, Fahrenheit, between mid-day and sun- 
set. 

The temperature of the Bosphorus climate appears 
of late years to have undergone considerable modifica- 
tions. Old inhabitants affirm that the cold is less 
intense, and the summer heat less violent. Several 
historians of the Lower Empire assert that, during the 
reigns of Arcadius, Constantine Copronymus, Ducas, 
&c, the Propontis was on some occasions beset with 
ice, so as to impede navigation; on others, the Bos- 
phorus was so completely frozen over, that men and 
beasts were enabled to cross from shore to shore, 
during many days. The last occurred during the years 
of our Lord 601 and 934, and the others in 753, 764, 
928, and 1232. It is likewise recorded, that the sum- 
mer heats were now and then so intense, and the 
drought so prolonged, that the fruits of the earth were 



G2 POSITION AND CLIMATE 

burned; the leaves fell scorched from the trees; the 
cattle perished by thousand! for want of nourishment; 
and the rills nnd springs that fed the aqueducts, being 
dried up, water became more precious than wine, and 
recourse was had to distant places for a supply. This 
happened under Justinian and Theodosrae, and likewise 
under Sultan Murad 111. and the fratricide Mohammed 

III. 

Frosts at present are never severe, nor even percep- 
tible during the middle of the day, except in the shaded 
and narrow valleys. Extraordinary droughts are like- 
wise unknown. Many years have therefore elapsed since 
a fethwa from the Sheikh [slam summoned the people 
to three days' 1 fasting and penitence at home, and to 
three dayB 1 congregation and public prayer in the open 
fields, in order to implore Almighty Providence to avert 
the scourge of famine and pestilence, produced or aug- 
mented by overlong duration of intense In at*. 

These solemnities must have been equally imposing 
and affecting. On the appointed day of congregation, 
the Sheikh of Aya Sofia, as chief imam of the city-f-, 
escorted by other imperial sheikhs, and a numerous 
retinue of priests, proceeded to the Ok Maidany. There 
he ascended the marble pulpit near the Sultan's kioshk, 
whence the eye commands a glorious prospect, bounded 

* The extremes of heat and cold are said to be inimical to plague, but 
during the terrible pestilence that ravaged Constantinople in lf>12, the 
malady attained its greatest intensity in September, the hottest mouth of 
the year. 

+ This sheikh, or dean, takes immediate precedence after the Sheikh 
Islam, in all religious ceremonies, and is one of the principal Oolema. 



OF CONSTANTINOPLE. 63 

on one side by the far Propontis and snow-capped 
Bythinian range, and on the other by Alem Dagh and 
the nearer hills of Asia, whose shadows rest upon the 
crystal bosom of the Bosphorus. In the presence of the 
Sultan, his court and ministers, and of all the grand 
dignitaries and oolema, surrounded by a mighty con- 
course of people, the venerable Sheikh awaited the pro- 
pitious moment. Then, as the first red streaks of the 
rising sun were perceptible above the Asiatic hills, he 
turned his face towards the Kehbla, raised his arms to 
heaven, and invited the vast multitude to prayer in the 
following words : — 

" Implore the mercy of thy God — of that great and 
most merciful Lord, who is the water of life, the 
quickener of the living and the dead — the fountain of 
hope, and the spring of eternal bounty. Praise be to 
God ! — To Him the immortal ! He can cause clouds to 
descend, and pour forth regenerating rain: praise Him— 
glorify Him — supplicate Him. Amen ! amen P 

Thereupon, three hundred thousand foreheads bent 
to the earth, breasts were smitten, garments rent, and 
tears shed, in token of contrition and supplication; 
and the voices of young and old, great and small, rich 
and poor, half stifled with sobs and groans, responded, 
" Allah hou Ackbar ! Allah, Allah Ackbar ! Araan ! 
Aman ! (mercy)." Such a spectacle, at moments of 
public calamity, resulting from the sword, pestilence, or 
famine, must be eminently calculated to excite profound 
emotions. The cause, the place, the presence of the 
Sultan, the mighty concourse, the beauty of the ex- 



G4 POSITION AND CLIMATE 

quisite prospect, contrasting gaily with the mournful 
motives for assembly — all can bo better comprehended 
than described. But to be well understood, the people 
must be known, the place visited, and perhaps, the 
terrible calamity felt or witn. m d — from which infliction 
may Almighty Providence henceforth shield the noble 
city! 

Pnbb'c prayers, that is, in the open air, wire first 
appointed during the reign of Mnrad III. (a.i>. L592). 
The city was then ravaged by a plague, which daily 
carried oft' some fifteen hundred .souls. The provini 
were desolated by civil war, and continued drought 
scorched the earth and exhausted the springs; bo that 
those who escaped Bword and pestilence risked death 
from thirst and hunger. The city was plunged into 
mourning. Night alter night, during four months, the 
warning groans of the terrible camel announced the 
departure of many victims*. 

Men thought the last day was at hand. In order to 
deprecate Almighty wrath, Mnrad, by advice of his 
vizirs and oolema, ordered three days 1 fast and public 
prayer. 

The Ok Maidany, from its elevated position, free 
space, and vicinity, was selected for this purpose. The 
minber (pulpit) of marble, which attracts the notice of 

* It is supposed that a black camel invisibly perambulates the city 
during plague, and kneels groaning before the doors of the foredoomed. 
One of the hallucinations of those who arc seized with plague, is the 
appearance of a black dog. I have spoken to more than one person who 

had been attacked with bad symptoms, and they have declared their 
belief in this delusion. 



OF CONSTANTINOPLE. 65 

travellers at the present day, was erected for the pur- 
pose, and upon the 11th of September, the Sultan 
ascended to this spot, attended by his court and by the 
whole population. Upwards of four hundred and fifty 
thousand souls of all a^es and sexes are said to have 
been assembled upon this solemn occasion. For three 
days the city was deserted, and the parched herbage of 
the Ok Maidany was watered with contrite tears. Of 
this multitude, hundreds never returned. Those who 
carried plague in their bosoms died, and were forthwith 
buried in the adjacent cemetery. Others that might 
have escaped, caught the fell disease by contact with the 
infected. But none repined. 

" The hand of destiny, immutable and unavoidable, 
was there! — the hand that has enchained man to the 
commission of good or evil, without reserve or free will.' 11 
Such at least is the error of the vulgar and ignorant, 
who misinterpret the sense of the Kooran and sacred 
writings, and, mistaking God's indubitable foreknow- 
ledge for immutable judgments, hold themselves to 
be foredoomed, and incapable of free action. This 
doctrine is, however, repudiated by all well-educated 
persons, as contrary to the letter of the Kooran, and of 
repeated fethwas, issued by the most esteemed and 
learned men : in proof of which, let us terminate this 
chapter with the first soura of the Kooran and a 
fethwa, the latter written by Bekhja Abdullah Effendy, 
Sheikh Islam under Mahmoud I. in 1729. 

Fataha or Fatahat. (1st. Chapter of the Kooran). 
" Praise be to God, the Lord of all creatures ! The 



66 POSITION AND CLIMATE OF CONSTANTINOPLE. 

most merciful, the King of the day of judgment ! Thee 
do \vc worship, and of Thee do wo beseech assistance! 
Direct us in the right path, in the way of those to whom 
thou hast been gracious — not of those against whom 
thou art incensed, nor of those who have gone astray!" 

Ftthica, relative to free-will in Man. 

Question. " .Should Aclnnct, a Musselman, deny tho 
free-will of man, by declaring God the Creator to be tho 
cause of all his creatures" actions, to what punishment is 
he condemned by the religious co«! Answer. ''To 

renew his profession of faith, and the ceremony of his 
marriage; and if be still persist in his error, he merits 

DEATH/' 

Thus, according to the religious code, any man be- 
lieving in immutable predestination is regarded as an 

incorrigible traducer of divine beneficence, and a dis- 
believer in the free will of thought and action bestowed 
by the Almighty on all his creatures. 



PARMAK (FINGER) GATE. 



67 




BESHIK (CRADLE.) 



CHAPTER III. 



FINGER GATE; 1NLAYERS; WAX -CHANDLERS; COOK- 
SHOPS AND COOKERY; DOMESTIC HABITS; IN- 
TEMPERANCE; BUTCHER'S MEAT; BAKERS AND 
BREAD; MILLERS AND MEALMEN. 

It is now requisite to mention some three or four 
trades, not exercised within the bazars, but essentially 
illustrative of domestic manners. Let us then ascend 
to Divan Yolly; a great thoroughfare, intersecting the 
city from east to west. For this purpose it is necessary 
to pass through Parmak (finger) Kapoossy, which 



68 PASMAX (finger) gate. 

divides the external Byt Bazary from the adjacent 
streets*. 

This gate owes its designation to the following event. 
In the days of Bajaset II., a shop, immediately conti- 
guons, was occupied by a BOrgetjee, named Majiary All 
Agha. lie was an Hungarian renegade, and retired 
janissary, who enjoyed a pension from the Sultan, ag 
compensation for his left arm, and lor the thumb and 
three lingers of the right hand, lost in lighting against 
the Christian army at the celebrated battle of Mohatz. 

-Ali Agha was, to all appearance, a man of mosl anstere 
habits, inflexible temperance, rigid honesty, and fanatical 
devotion; so that he was regarded aa a model of piety 
and probity by his aeighbours. It was his custom to 
open his stall at dawn, to remain there till the gates were 
half closed, and then to withdraw, no one knew whither. 
It was frequently observed, however, that he possessed 
valuable articles, better fitting one of the rich bezestanly, 
than a mutilated retailer of cracked crockery and rusty 
weapons. A jewcl-hilted poniard was remarked at one 
time beneath the folds of his dirty red waist girdle; on 
another, a splendid diamond sparkled upon his remaining 
linger; and, on a third, a precious pearl rosary was ob- 
served protruding from the faded money bag carried in 
his bosom. 

This gave rise to some gossip among the old sergetjee; 

but as fortune distinguishes neither the halt from the 

lame, nor the blind from the quick-sighted, and as no man 

at Stambol troubles himself with his neighbour's affairs, 

" Marked F iu the plan of bazars. 



PARMAK (FINGER) GATE. C9 

unless he becomes troublesome to the quarter (mahal) in 
which he resides, the possession of these and other costly 
articles was attributed to one of those chances, which 
occur to men whose star is in the ascendant. 

It chanced, however, during winter, that the lieutenant 
of the bash tchokadar of a remote and desolate quarter 
near Narly Kapou, went his night rounds, accompanied 
by half-a-dozen yamaks*. Upon turning the corner of a 
deserted alley, near the sea-side, they suddenly encoun- 
tered a man carrying a large sack, apparently filled with 
old raiment. Although midnight was past, and honest 
citizens were not usually met with at this hour, the naib 
returned the man's " salute of peace," and walked on- 
ward. But the last yamak, on passing by, raised his 
lantern in the stranger's face, and called out, " Mashallah! 
What brings Majiary Ali Agha into this quarter of the 
city, and at this time of night? 11 

" What are you braying about, you long-ear?" ex- 
claimed the naib. " Whose dog are you, that you think 
proper to howl as if your tail was on fire? How shall we 
catch thieves, if you do not keep silence?" 

" By the naib's head, I think we have caught one 
already," replied the yamak ; "unless this man be much 
changed, since he ate the Sultan's bread in the fifty-fifth 
oda. Come, Majiary Ali Agha," continued he, address- 
ing the carrier of the sack, " let me lighten your back of 
that load and examine its contents." 



* The bash tchokadar was the chief police officer attached to the 
Grand Vizir. He had a naib (deputy) in each quarter. The yamak 
were sergeants of police, whose duty it was to patrole at night. 



70 PARMAK (FINGER) GATE. 

"Go jour way, Sclim Tchaoosh," replied Ali Agha, 
for he it was; "go your way! (iive me no dirt to cat, 
or I will complain to the bash tchokadar. It is time 
that he should know how his people arrest and insult 
honest citizens; poor, maimed janissaries. Begone! he- 
gone! Let me carry this sack to a friend's house, to 
harter for other goods." 

"Goods!" echoed another yamak. w Waiy! waiy! 
fine goods, indeed! Come quick, O naih. See, com- 
rade-! !>y my heard and soul, here is a man's foot peep- 
in b out from the sack." 

To be brief, the patrolc immediately surrounded Ali 
Agha, tore open the sack, and there discovered the naked 
and still palpitating body of a man — dead, but without 
apparent marks of violence. Thereupon they compelled 
Ali Agha to resume his load, and proceeded with him to 
the nearest guard-house; where he and his burden were 
locked up together. The following morning, the bash 
tchokadar and grand vi/ir were informed of the event. 
Ali Agha was put on his trial, and the following facts 
were brought to light. 

Ali Agha, it appeared, possessed a house in a thinly- 
inhabited quarter near Narly Kapou. Here he lived in 
good style, and passed his nights in feasting and drinking. 
But he took care to enter after dusk, and to depart before 
sunrise, so that his face was scarcely known to the few 
householders who dwelt in this secluded quarter. Many 
dissolute characters resorted, however, to his house, but 
never saw him; for he purchased females, whom he com- 
pelled to lure young men to his abode, where they were 



PARMAK (FINGER) GATE. 7l 

tdmitted by a garden-gate, and there abandoned them- 
ielves to vice and debauchery with these unfortunate 
yrens. Of these revellers, some, who possessed rich 
Iresses, jewels, or arms, never recrossed the threshold, 
tnd few departed without being robbed. 

Those disposed of could tell no secrets, whilst those 
)lundered were ashamed to complain to the police, lest 
;hey should suffer in person and honour. Ali Agha 
;rusted to his young females to perform the part of pick- 
)Ockets, and, with the aid of an old negress, took upon 
limself the task of assassin. The mode which he adopted 
vas as ingenious as it was effective. 

Having administered powerful narcotics in the wines 
served to his intended victims, Ali Agha waited until 
the potion had taken effect; then, upon a signal given by 
Dne of the young women, he entered the sleeper's cham- 
ber, and with the aid of the old negress, perforated the 
victim's brain, by means of a sharp bodkin firmly attached 
to the remaining finger and stump of his right hand. 
Instant death always ensuing, he and his abominable 
assistant stripped the corpse, and either buried it in the 
garden, or, placing it in a sack, conveyed it to the sea 
wall, whence it was cast into the Propontis. The negress, 
and two or three of the unhappy accessories to these 
tragedies, confessed that many persons had thus been 
deprived of life. 

The trial being ended, and the guilt of all parties 
proved, the negress and culpable females were strangled, 
and, the murderer's house having been razed, his punish- 
ment ensued. This was commensurate with his crimes. 



72 DIVAN YOLLY. 



/ - 



lie was first conducted to the corner where he trafficked in 
the fruits of his atrocity. Here the finder with which he 
perpetrated the murders was crashed between the adja- 
cent pates. Then, being conveyed back to the spot 
where his den of iniquity previously stood, he was im- 
paled alive. This terrible sentence was carried into 
effect to the satisfaction of the whole city, and the pate 
received and retained its designation, in commemoration 
of the monster's infamy. 

On the outside of Parmak Kapoossy is a narrow alley, 
principally tenanted by a better class of sergetjee. Old 
enamels, talismans. Persian kaleoons (pipes), ivory and 
ebony spoons, ami an endless variety of antique objects, 
are strewed or piled around their narrow shops. Here 
also may be purchased finely inscribed sentences from the 
Kooran, Mashallahs, and Sultan's toughra; but T endea- 
voured in vain to procure a specimen of the fine Persian 
tiles that ornament the mosques. 

At the termination of this alley is the animated and 
crowded thoroughfare called Divan Yollv. This long 

o v CI 

street commences at the Bab-y Houmayoom (imperial 
gate of the Seraglio), near the south-cast angle of Aya 
Sofia: skirting the north end of the At Ma'i'dany. it passes 
between Bin bir Direk cistern and the beautiful mauso- 
leum of Sultan Mahmond II*. It then traverses the 
ancient Forum Constantini. now reduced to a small 
space called Yanmish Tash Ma'i'dany, behind which the 
smoke-disfigured and shattered shaft of the celebrated 

" The length of the At M&idany from north to south is as nearly as 
possible 2G4 varus; its breadth from east to west, 153. 



INLAYERS. 73 

porphyry column, erected a.d. 330, by Constantine, 
rises above the guard-house and baker's shop, by which 
its base is concealed*. 

Divan Yolly then continues in a western direction to 
the south of Sultan Bajazet and the Serasker Square. 
After forming the street called Direk Yolly (the colon- 
nade), it passes at the back of the Shahzadeh mosque, 
and thence by the Saddle and Shoe Markets to the 
mosque of Mohammed II., the court of which it inter- 
sects. Thence prolonging its tortuous course along the 
ridge of the fourth, fifth, and sixth hills, it terminates 
at the Adrianople Gate. 

A few yards westward of the " Burned Column" is the 
mosque, called Atik (old) Ali Pacha, to distinguish it 
from four other mosques more recently erected by pashas 
of the same name. This mosque is admired for the 
beauty of its facade, and especially for the elegance of the 
marble entrance, the entablature of which is adorned 
with gilded inscriptions of the finest epoch of calligraphy. 
The door of the court is contiguous to the college, hospi- 
tal, and mausoleum of the renowned grand vizer Sinan 
Pasha, conqueror of Yemen. Opposite to these edifices 
reside the sedefjelar (workers in inlaid articles), one of 
the neatest and most ancient trades in the city. The 
early Arabs learned the art of inlaying ebony and other 
woods from the Hindoos, and, although neither the for- 
mer nor the Turks ever attained the same perfection as 
their masters, some highly finished specimens are to be 

* The pedestal and a portion of the shaft are within the back shop of 

a baker. 
m 

VOL. III. K 



74 INLAYERS. 

met with at Constantinople. Among other relics of the 
kind are the doors of Erivan kioshk, in the Seraglio, and 
the old state galley mentioned in a preceding chapter. 
The principal artioiei now manufactured arc — 

1. Skemla, low eight-legged octangular tahles, of dif- 
ferent diameters, used for meals or other domestic pur- 
pos< -. 

2. Sandook (boxes), of various sizes, for looking op 
jewels, gold and papers. 

3. Aim (small hand mirrors), like the toilet-glaaws 
used by English Ladies. These articles arc made of cedar 
or chestnut wood, and arc inlaid with triangular or dia- 
aaond-shaped pieces of mother-of-pearl and tortoiseshell, 
forming a bright and regular mosaic. 

4. Beshik (oradles), the extremities of which arc 
carved with open patterns, inlaid in the same manner*. 
Those employed in the imperial harem are extremely 
rich, and some of considerable :mti< juitv. They arc 
carved in graceful open patterns, inlaid on both sides 
with the finest materials, and studded with silver bos- 
in^the centre of which are precious stones. 

5. Farash (dust shovels): these articles have been 
described when treating of mats, in the first volume. 
But the most beautiful and original articles made by the 
trade are rakhla (Kooran rests), seen in the toorbas, and 
parmaklyk (balustrades, or railings-f-.) 

Koorans, enveloped in embroidered coverings, repose 
upon rakhla, when not in the hands of toorbadars (guar- 
dians), or Kooran readers, who are divided into three 

* See vignette at commencement of this chapter, 
f See vignette, vol. ii. c. v. 



INLAYEKS. 75 

classes — viz. 1, Adsha, whose duty it is to relieve each 
other, between dawn and sunset, in reading certain por- 
tions; so that the task of hurrying through the whole 
volume is thus completed within the required period. 
2, Devr, who read or recite the whole book from be<nn- 
ning to end, within two, three, or more days. And 3, 
Naat, who either chant or recite from memory at prayer 
hours. When men learn the whole Kooran by heart, 
and are able to repeat any given chapter or verse 
when called upon, they are termed Hafizy (of happy 
memory.) 

The learned but unskilful commander of Nejib owed 
his name and advancement to this talent. He was a 
Circassian by birth, came to seek his fortune at Con- 
stantinople, was placed among the imperial pages, and, 
from his powers of memory and the melody of his voice, 
was appointed Kooran reciter to the Sultan. Facility of 
memory and harmony of voice were singular recom- 
mendations for a soldier. But the bane of Turkey is 
the employment and advancement of men through the 
caprice of sovereign will, or through pernicious court 
intrigues*. 

Parmaklyk are the inlaid balustrades that inclose the 
gigantic sandooka (biers) of Sultans and Sultana Validas, 
and sometimes of married Sultanas. These railings are 
rich and elegant: witness that of Sultan Mahmoud II. 

* Deplorable proofs of this system have been more notorious within 
the last twelve months than at any period within the last twenty years. 
Blind to results, deaf to advice, and regardless of warnings, Riza Pacha 
and his camarilla are fast hurrying Turkey to a crisis fatal to herself, 
and most injurious to the interests of Great Britain, her only sincere ally. 

E 2 



7G WAX CHANDLERS. 

and that recently placed round the tomb of his unfor- 
tunate daughter, Sal ilia. The former is carved in fan- 
tastic devices, representing Mowers and foliage, and is 
inlaid with Large flakes of mother of pearl with ebony 
tracery. The biers of princes and unmarried princesses 
are not inclosed, and are of smaller dimensions than 
those of Sultans. Parmaklyk, being regarded as symbols 

* 

of royalty, are not placed round the biers of individuals 
unconnected with the imperial family. 

The next trade of importance in this street is that of 
the tufenkjee (gunsmiths), who also exercise that of 
locksmiths. Having spoken at length on the subject of 
arms. T will pass the gunsmiths, and proceed by the 
Valida Sultana Bath to the broader portion of Divan 
Volly. upon the northern Bide of which are a range of 
shops tenanted by bakal (grocers) and balmoomjee (waz- 
chandl- 

The latter Bell tapers of all colours and dimensions, 
from the common twist used by us for Bealing letters, 
and called "rats' 1 by the French, to the gigantic candles 
placed at the head of biers in Bilver shemdan (candle- 
sticks) of corresponding magnitude*. These, generally 
limited to imperial mausoleums, are sometimes met with 
in the tombs of saints or dervish sheikhs. The prin- 
cipal market for these articles is at the extremity of 
Ozoon Tcharshy, near the dried fruit bazar, and in the 
immediate vicinity of Bal Kapan (honey magazine). 
Supplies of wax are drawn from Trebizonde, Wallachia, 
Moldavia, and the Archipelago islands; especially from 
Syra, celebrated for its excellent honey. 
* See vignette in vol. i. c. vii. 



WAX CHANDLERS. 77 

In imperial palaces and houses of the great it is cus- 
tomary to place wax-lights of different colours in the 
chandeliers; green, pink, and light blue are preferred. 
Sometimes they are entirely gilt and festooned with 
waxen flowers. But wax-lights are luxuries used only 
by the higher classes. Brilliant light is not required. 
Parties or convivial meetings after dark are rare. Few 
seople read, fewer work; and in most cases lights are 
3ut out, and families retire to rest, about ten o'clock in 
ill seasons. 

The wax-chandlers 1 guild venerate Shem, son of Noah, 
is their patron. He it was that invented wax tapers. 
When the ark was already afloat, a swarm of bees settled 
ipon the roof. Shem, seeing this, removed them care- 
ully to a warm corner, where they hived and multiplied. 
When the ark rested upon Mount Ararat, near the spot 
vhere the convent of Etchmiazin now stands, Shem took 
he wax, melted it in an earthen pot, and dipped therein 
trips of wool. These, when cool, he rolled in his hands, 
,nd thus made the first twisted taper, or "rat de cave." 
?rom this cause Shem is also venerated as the patron of 
piaries. 

The next portion of Divan Yolly is tenanted by 
ealers of all possible denominations, except upon the 
orthern side, where, for a space of some fifty yards, the 
emetery of Sultan Bajazet is separated from the street 
y a wall perforated with iron gratings. Through these 
lay be seen a confused assemblage of tombstones, over- 
badowed by lofty cypresses, entwined with vines and 
liant parasites. This cemetery is regarded as exceeding 



78 CARRIAGES. 

holy, on account of its fbander 1 i .sanctity*. It contains 
the tombs of many eminent personages; among others 
that of Abdullah Effendy, restorer of the adjacent 
library. An Arabic inscription, on the wall over one of 
the gratings, informs the faithful that "the last sigh of 
the virtuous is more fragrant than the odour of roses." 
This cemetery is a favourite resting-place of imperial 
kadinns and wealthy ladies. 

This portion of the city is interesting to Strang 
towards the hour of sunset prayer. It is the principal 
passage through which grand dignitaries and public func- 
tionaries return to their residences after transacting 
business at the Porte. Some few, such as the Grand 
Vizir, Serasker, Capudan Pasha, Reis EfFendy, Grand 
Marshal, Director-General of Artillery, Hekini Hashy, 
and other!) employ carriages, but the greater part ride. 
Until lately the use of carriages was restricted to tho 
Sultan's family and the Grand Vi/ir. Indeed the Sultan 
himself rarely avails himself of this privilege; and, unless 
upon extraordinary occasions. such, for instance, as tho 
grand review already spoken of, never adopts a mode of 
conveyance which is considered unmanly and unorthodox. 
Thus it is that the Sheikh Islam invariably rid< . 

The carriages usually employed are old-fashioned and 
heavy caleches imported from Vienna. Halil, Riza, 

* A curious instance of Bajazet's superstition is disclosed in the fol- 
lowing fact. During his latter years he ordered the dust from his 
slippers and clothes to be carefully preserved in a box, for the purpose 
of being placed under his body when interred, in virtue of these words 
of the Prophet: "He whose feet shall have been covered with dust of 
the path of God shall thereby be preserved from hell fire." 



CARRIAGES. 79 

Rifat, and Achmet Fethy Pashas, have however intro- 
duced chariots; and Mehemet Ali of Tophana drives in 
a low modern phaeton. The horses, bred in the Mace- 
donian and Thessalian districts, and well adapted for 
draught, are covered with heavy and tawdry harness, 
and driven by a Bulgarian saiss, in the common peasant's 
dress. A second saiss stands up behind, accompanied 
sometimes by a footman, and now and then replaced by 
an inferior officer of the Pasha's household, with a sword 
girt to his loins. In most cases the vehicles move at a 
slow pace, a useful precaution in narrow, crowded, and 
deplorably paved streets. 

The carriages of the Vizir and Serasker are followed 
by secretaries and aides-de-camp on horseback, and by 
several cavass on foot. One of the former, the divitdar 
(inkstand-bearer), carries his chiefs portfolio slung across 
his shoulders; another bears the pipe in its cloth case; 
but, generally speaking, all attendants are on foot. 
Ladies, even those of the Sultan, are restricted to the use 
of arabas drawn by oxen, or to the incommodious 
vehicles called telekas*. 

When public functionaries ride, they are followed by 
one or more mounted officers and attendants; but on all 
occasions their cavass and menial servants follow on foot 
Let the master's condition be what it may, his saiss in- 
variably walks by his left side, with his right hand rest- 
ing upon the crupper. He carries over his shoulder the 

* See vignette, vol. iii. c. i. Frank coachmakers have recently esta- 
blished themselves. One of these from Vienna has set up his workshops 
in the "little burying ground." 



50 KABABJT, 

cloth used for covering raddle and horse when his master 
dismounts, and is prepared to hold both bridle and 
stirrup. Saiss are with few exception! stout and active 
Bulgarians ; not because Turks are averse to perform 
such functions — witness ass and mule drivers, all Mos- 
lems — but because fashion or custom sanctions the prac- 
tice, in the same manner that we may prefer Scotch 
gardeners or Norfolk gamekeepers. 

Having made our way through tbc throng of passengers 
and itinerant dealers in fruit, cheese, sweetmeats, fish, 
and vegetables, and pushed aside many asses laden with 
bread, sent hither by distant bakers about sunset prayer, 
let us seek a convenient place for refreshment. None 
can he more appropriate than the shop of Hadjy Mustafa 
Effendy, one of the most celebrated kababjy in the city. 
It is necessary to premise by observing that all cook- 
shops are thus designated; and although the term kabab 
is, par excellence, ascribed to slices of lamb or mutton, 
it means anything roasted. Thus we have chestnut, 
Indian corn, fowl, lamb, kid, and game kababs; nay, 
even dilsooz (roasted human heart-), a figurative term 
indicating the extreme effects of Cupid's burning in- 
roads on the mortal coil. 

Few strangers visit Stambol without essaying the 
merits of kababs; and, provided that they be not too 
civilized to eat with their fingers, without which it is 
impossible to appreciate the merits of this succulent 
dish, none will depart without desiring to carry Hadjy 
Mustafa in their train. The immortal Careme, whose 
noblest boast was his mode of instantly serving Napo- 



AND COOKING. 81 

lean's uncertain appetite, and still more uncertain leisure, 
with hot roast fowls and cresses, could not have been 
more prompt with his succession of crisply-roasted pullets 
than is the worthy Hadjy with his relays of smoking 
kababs. 

The shop of this worthy man is situated on the south 
side of Divan Yolly. The open front is ornamented 
with a clean marble counter, upon which are deposited 
fine lettuces, bowls of yaoort and keimak (clotted milk 
and cream), from Eyoub and the Sweet Waters, skewers 
of mutton ready to be converted into kababs, giblets for 
making soup and ragouts, rice for pilafs, sheep's heads 
and trotters for various dishes, fat fowls for stewing 
and roasting, pumpkin and vine-leaf dohnas, toorshan 
(pickles), and a variety of other articles agreeable to 
eastern palates. The walls are furnished with shelves, 
supporting handsome china bowls, cups, and glasses. 
From the roof are suspended quarters or halves of sweet, 
but not overfat, mutton; whilst one or two of their live 
and innocent relatives may be seen in the back garden 
chewing the cud of philosophy, unconscious of or re- 
signed to their doom. 

Mustafa's shop is divided into two portions. At one 
end is the owner's throne. There he rules over the vases 
of syrup and preserved fruits, intended for concocting 
khoshab, or the fresh fruits and lemons, whose juices are 
converted into sherbet; while glasses of crystal water 
from Kara Koulak and Mir Akhor springs await de- 
mand. At the opposite extremity are the stoves, on 
which burn slow charcoal fires. Here the skewers for 

e3 



82 KAIURJY, 

roasts and the saucepans for stews and dolmas are in 
readiness. At the back is a raised platform, furnished 
with low stools, where M the general 11 enjoy themselves. 
Above this is a gallery to which persons of higher degree 
are conducted, being cleaner and more airy. In tho 
corner is a small fountain. Thcro ablutions are per- 
formed; or, if required, I waiter attends with metal 
ewer and basin, and aids in this important termination 
to all repasts. 

One of the dainties on the happy mixture of which 
Hadjy Mustafa prides himself is khoshflb. Thu bever- 
age, though nearly related to, must not be confounded 
with, sherbet. The latter is slightly acidulated, and in 
general made of fresh lemon, ipiince, orange, or cherry 
juice, or of candied grapes, mulberries, and Damascus 
plums, squeezed or diluted in cold water, and thus drunk 
at all hours. Hut the khoshab (agreeable water) forms 
the termination of all orthodox dinners, and is eomposi d 
of preserved fruits or syrups, such M Aidin pom< _ianates, 
Mardin plums, Damascus and Bokhara apricots. ELedostQ 
peaches, Scala Nuova cherries, Heybek strawberries, 
Adrianople roses, tamarinds, and so forth. 

The art of concoct in<j khoehdb is considered difficult. 
The young black aghas and pages of the imperial palace 
are said to be adepts in this and other culinary prac- 
tices. A proficient in the art of making khoshab, who 
had been educated among the imperial pages, gave me a 
receipt which will be found below*. 

* " Take refined sugar, pour upon it a sufficient quantity of rose- 
\vatcr, boil it, cast off the scum, and let it repose. When cool, add 



AND COOKING. 83 

Although khoshab and sherbet are distinct beverages, 
the manufacturers belong to the guild of cooks. They 
are thus honourably connected with that noble art, to 
which the most illustrious men of all nations have paid, 
and will continue to pay, constant homage. There are 
various kinds of sherbets and khoshabs. The most dis- 
tinguished are Khasseky, so termed because it was 
invented by the Khasseky Kadinn of Sultan Selim L, 
when an odalik; teriaky (drunkards), because it was the 
favourite beverage of opium-eaters; Serai Mushiry (Palace 
Marshal), dedicated to the present fortunate and all- 
powerful Riza Pacha. 

But the most esteemed is the imamy, so called in 
honour of Imam Hossein, son of Ali, who learned the 
art of making the mixture from his aunt, daughter of 
the Prophet, and wife of Osman, who had herself learned 
it from her husband. For this reason the Soonite dealers 
revere Kaliph Osman as the inventor of khoshab and 
sherbet, while the Persians pronounce a blessing on the 
name of the martyr Hossein, and spit upon that of 
Osman, when they indulge in either of these most praise- 
worthy beverages. Refreshing drinks, called "tisanes' 1 
by the French, and "teas 1 ' by the English, whether 

plain spring water, and place in it the required preserved fruit. Boil 
slowly, throw off impurities, strain the liquid through a fine sieve, pour 
it into a china howl, add the fruit that has remained in the sieve, cool or 
ice it, and drink with sandal wood, aloes, or pear-wood spoons. A drop 
of musk, sandal, rose, ambergris, or aloes wood oil, may be added, to give a 
high flavour." The ladies of the imperial family are said by the misk- 
jees to countenance the latter— a somewhat new invention. Khoshab 
in truth merits its pleasant name, and is worthy of cooling the ruby lips 
of the houris who people "the abode of felicity." 



84 KABABJY, 

concocted of camomile, mallow, or other herbs ami lea*. 
are called sherbet, and sold by apothecari- b. 

The honourable and recreative profession to which 
kab$bjys appertain is divided into two nlnimcm, BMfa form- 
ing a distinct corporation, but both centering their 
veneration in one patron — the father of men — but looking 
lip, nevertheless, with reverence, to divers remarkable 
protectors or professors of gastronomy. Thus the makers 
of mutton kababs worship Ishmael as their patron, in 
commemoration of Abraham's sacrifice. Thus also the 
Tidauii} peous of common cooks, consisting of what the 
French call "gargotiers," and who principally deal in 
sheep's heads Btewed with garlic, or trotters smothered in 
onions, look back with infinite reverence to the memory 
of Sheikh Saifuddinn, who washead-ooojk to the Prophet, 
and invented the fragrant haggis so much esteemed by 
his master. 

Others of the fraternity, whose stoves scud forth greasy 
pilafs and dolmas, cinder-like kababs, iron-coloured 
muscles, stewed in their shells, and stalled with rice and 
garlic, boiled fish, baba tehorba (papa, or common sheep's 
head porridge) and other fearful-looking condiments, 
record with respect the name of Shah Ismacl, founder of 
the Suflite dynasty. 

Kababjy and cooks, who extend their knowledge into 
the higher branches of the estimable science, form part 
of the twelfth grand guild, and consider themselves as 
far superior to the eleventh as do the chief artists at 
Windsor Castle to the turnspits of the subjacent College; 
modern Ixions, the cycle of whose culinary life revolves 



AND COOKING. 85 

eternally round roasted mutton. There is no record in 
Turkey of any cook having followed the example of tho 
too-susceptible Wattel — not because Turkish cooks are 
deficient in pride and point of honour; but because the 
tideless Bosphorus never fails to supply its finny treasures. 
Turkish cooks, moreover, stand in just awe of the retri- 
butive hand of God, who, according to their belief, has 
declared suicide to be more sinful than manslaughter. It 
is recorded, however, that although they do not spit 
themselves upon their own daggers, others sometimes 
spare them this transgression by a summary process. 
One example will suffice. 

It chanced that Selim II., one of the most cruel and 
superstitious monarchs of the Ottoman dynasty, fell 
asleep towards mid-day, in the year 1575, and, no one 
daring to awake him, he thereby omitted his noon namaz. 
During this time he dreamed that Ishmael, son of Abra- 
ham, appeared to him, and rebuking him in wrathful 
language for his somnolency, said: "Sacrifice forthwith 
a seven days'" old lamb, and eat a part thereof for thy 
evening repast, or thou thyself shalt fall a sacrifice to thy 
transgression. " 

Upon this Selim awoke in great trepidation, and, 
sending for the ashjee bashy (head cook) commanded 
him to procure a seven days' 1 lamb, that he (the Sultan) 
might sacrifice it with his own hand, and, when roasted 
and stuffed with currants and almonds, eat it for his 
supper. The head cook, upon hearing this, had well- 
nigh dropped clown dead with terror; for it was October, 
many months after the ewes had ceased lambing. To 



86 KAIUBJY, 

procure a youncr lamb was against nature, to deceive the 
Sultan against art. Ho, nevertheless, replied, "Ob my 
bead be it," and went his way. 

In vain the ashjee bashy and his i'riend, the ehief 
purveyor, dispatched me--engBrs on all sides, offering rich 
rewards to him wlio could procure I young lamb; in vain 
violent hands were laid upon scores of innocent animals, 
frisking and pasturing upon tho surrounding hi ightfc 
"He who tempers the wind to the -horn lamb"' denied a 
miracle. AnilDftlfl live or -i\ months old were found in 
abundance; but not a single ewe had waned lines tho 
vernal equinox. Nothing remained tin it lore lor the 
cook but to select the smallest, to deck it out with 
ribbons, gilt paper, and painty and to | resent it to the 

Sultan"- knife, with hi- own bead, it" rcmiin 1. 

\Yhil-t tin- wa- naming in his mind, he stood in hi 
office near a large manga! of lighted charcoal, and, the 
hem of his caftan chancing to oome in contact with the 
embers, his whole dress was soon in a blaze. In hii 
trepidation, he cast oil' hi- burning garment. Thus the 
fire communicated to the light draperies of the divan and 
windows, and ere many seconds the whole chamber was 
in flames. Tho alarm was soon given and assistance 
procured, but the fury of the flames was so intense as to 
baffle every effort. In less than half an hour, the whole 
range of kitchens and offices near the second Seraglio 
Court were reduced to ashes, and the conflagration was 
with difficulty prevented from communicating to the 
harem. 

The Sultan, who sat in one of his kio.-hks anxiously 



AND COOKING. 87 

awaiting the arrival of the sacrifice, was immediately 
apprized of this misfortune, and forthwith hastened to 
the spot. The sight of the burning edifice seemed to 
affect him deeply, and he stood for a while motionless 
and silent. His ominous dream appeared half accom- 
plished. Rousing himself suddenly, however, he looked 
anxiously around, and then in a loud voice exclaimed, 
"Where is the ashjee bashy?" 

In a few seconds the trembling cook appeared and 
cast himself at the Sultan's feet. The latter then placed 
his foot on his neck and roared out — "Kaffir dog! where 
is my lambf To this the prostrate wretch replied, "By 
the Sultan's beard, it is not my fault. God has willed 
that it should be consumed, like the sacrifice made by 
Abraham." Upon this Selim gnashed his teeth, and 
trembled with fear and choler. Seeing the Agha of 
Janissaries standing by, the despot pointed first to the 
cook, then to the burning edifices. In an instant more, 
the miserable offender was cast headlong into the flames. 
This being done Selim retired, shut himself up in his 
harem, and endeavoured, by many prayers of supereroga- 
tion, to make amends for the omission of the after- 
noon. 

These circumstances, recounted by the Turkish 
historian Raschid, may be exaggerated. But there can 
be no doubt that this event produced such effect upon 
SelinVs superstitious and cowardly mind, that he fell into 
a state of profound melancholy and languor. Ere many- 
months, he was seized with violent colics and fever, of 
which he died in great agony; attributing his death to 



88 KAIUBJY, 

the destruction of the intended sacrifice and the burnincr 
of his kitchens. 

Turkish culinary productions are numerous and diver- 
sified. Among these kabfibs, and orman kab&by 
(lamhs roasted whole), pilafs, and dolmas are perhaps the 
most distinguished. Kabftbs are of two kinds — sadd 
(plain) and yaoortly (with clotted milk). The first 
consist of small slices of mutton or kid, spitted on iron 
skewers, roasted over wood embers, and served upon the 
flat ami tough bread called pida, cither with or without 
a garnish of chopped onions and parsley. The second 
derive their name from the addition of yaoort. poured over 
the meat. Both are generally served on pewter dishes. 
The correct mode of roasting lamb entire is to place it 
in a hole in the ground, in a deep earthen dish, and 
then to cover the whole with burning embers. When 
this operation is performed by an expert artist, and your 
amiable lamb is well stuffed with currants, almonds, and 
pistaccio nuts, orman kab&by is not to be surpassed in 
flavour by the most succulent roasts, for which our 
islands stand pre-eminent. The mighty conqueror \adir 
Shah appears to have entertained the same opinion ; for 
it is recorded of him that he always devoured a whole 
roast lamb thus prepared for his supper. 

Pilafs are various. There is 1, The plain, merely con- 
sisting of rice, slowly boiled in substantial mutton suet, 
butter, oil, or stock, so that each grain, duly impreg- 
nated with the unctuous matter, should swell, and appear 
distinct, as when rice is prepared for curries. 

2. Zerdeh (the golden), so called from being tinged 



AND COOKTNG. 89 

with saffron. The reddish hue produced by this is 
intended to commemorate the blood of Hamsa, the hero 
of the Omiad family, and favourite of the Prophet, who 
was slain in defending Mohammed's person at the battle 
of Bedr. To him is ascribed the invention of pilafs. 

3. Ajem (Persian), in which slices of mutton, quails, 
muscles, fowls, oysters, or other flesh or fish are mixed; 
but this is less esteemed than the golden, and is not often 
served. Pilaf is upon all occasions the culminating point 
of dinner. 

Dolmas are of fifty kinds. They consist of minced or 
forced meat, rice, vegetables, or other well-seasoned sub- 
stances, stuffed into young pumpkins or melons, or enve- 
loped with lettuce, vine, or cabbage leaves. The most 
popular are those made of young green pumpkins. Their 
frequent use for this purpose has caused them to be called 
dolma, whereas the true meaning of this word signifies 
any substance cut into minute particles, as well as earth 
employed to fill up excavations. Thus the palace of 
Dolma Baghtshy, as justly remarked by the learned Dr. 
Reumont, derives its name from a portion of the valley 
being filled up with earth for garden ground*. 

The culinary art in Turkey varies, as it does elsewhere, 
according to the fortune and taste of its patrons. Men 
cooks, principally Armenians or Greeks, are employed 
by the wealthy; negresses invariably by those who can- 
not afford, or do not think proper to engage, male artists. 
"Where men are employed, the kitchens are outside the 
harem; where females are substituted, and this occurs 
* Reiseschilderungen von Alfred Reumont. Stuttgart. 1 vol. 



90 COOKERY. 

nine times out of ten, they are upon the ground floor, 
within the women's apartment-. In both cases tho 
wooden turn-box serves t<> convey articl I or 

undressed, to and fro. 

Men cooks learn their trade, as they do in other 
countries, under professor! of the art, and are well paid, 
earning from two to three pounds per month, N< - 
are instructed in the same manner 1>\ bottsskeepeis in 
families, and arc brought up to the profession from their 
first purchase. 

It would he easy to cite many Turkish pashas and 
eflendya, whose nanus deserve to he rescued fromobli* 
vion. as patrons of the noble and generous art. It will 
suffice to mention Kifat, Namik. U< -chid, and Mooza, 
paahas; Sarim, Chekil), and Fouad, effciidys, with tho 
lively brother-in-law of the Utter, Khiamil Bey. It is 
worthy of observation, that the sympathetic tendencies 
which excite European diplomatists to carry their re- 
searches into the loftiest regions of gastronomy, produce 
similar influences upon the same meritorious class of epi- 
cureans in Turkey* The latter certainly possess most 
enlightened models in Count Stunner, Austrian Inter- 
nuncio; in M. dc Bourquenay, French Ambassador; and 
in the hospitable representative of Russia, M. dc Titof. 

During Lord l'onsonby's long residence, the British 
Embassy table held the same paramount influence over 
men's palates, as did its diplomacy over public affairs. 
At present, a variety of unfavourable conjunctions have 
produced a decrease in both. But the unaffected kind- 
ness and obliging hospitality of Lady Canning causes 



BILL OF FARE. 91 

guests to forget the equivocations of a questionable artist; 
and the indefatigable zeal aud undoubted abilities of our 
ambassador, if properly supported, will doubtless restore 
our political preponderance to the same undisputed pre- 
eminence to which it had been elevated by his prede- 
cessor. 

No British diplomatist ever laboured more ardently to 
promote the interests of his country than Sir S. Canning; 
but the most able combinations and forethought have 
been neutralized, by causes independent of his will. 
Thus we now see Russia triumphant, and the influence 
of Great Britain reduced to the level of second-rate 
powers. 

The following specimen of a bill of fare may be taken 
as a criterion of the dinners given, and the order in which 
they are served, to six or eight guests, in families of 
superior station. The dishes therein specified are also 
met with in the houses of the most wealthy, whose 
repasts merely differ in the quantity contained in each 
dish, with some additions tedious to enumerate: — 

Bill of Fare of Turkish Dinner for eight or ten persons. 

Chehrya tchorbassy (town soup), mutton, vermicelli, eggs, and vinegar. 
* Orman kababy (lamb roasted whole). 

Poof-beurigby (cheese puffs). 

Nohoot yanissy (fricassee) of fowl and young peas. 

Yernik halvassy, a sweet mixture, made of semolina, butter, and 
fresh honey. 

Yaprak or lany dohnassy (dolmas), rolled in cabbage leaves, or 
stuffed into other vegetable substances. 

Elmassya (the diamond), calves' foot jelly sweetened. 

Katavif (the velvety), a sort of pancake made of flour, eggs, and 
butter, having cream or sweet vermicelli inside. 



92 GAME. 

Assyda, a paste of semolina, garnished with hahniias, and stewed in 
rich sauce. 

Gulatch (the rose dish), a kind of cream, thickened with fine starch, 
and scented with rose-water. 

Zerdeh pilaf (the golden pilaf ). 

Khosh-ab (the agreeable water). 

Upon the table or metal tray serving for that purpose, 
are generally placed a bowl or two of yaoort, one or two 
salads dressed with oil and vinegar, two or three small 
saucers of toorshan (pickles), olives, and caviar, with 
slices of lemon and bread. The table is never covered 
with a cloth, but each individual has n napkin. Water 
is served when demanded, but few drink any liquid 
during dinner. A few Bpoonfulfl of khosh&b suffice at 
the end. "When water is drunk during dinner, it is usual 
to wish health in these words, " Afyethlar ola" (much 
good may it do you), a mosl ancient custom, and the 
origin of our health-drinking during meals. 

Game is rarely met with. The principal cause for 
this is the law which declares inquire all animals that 
are not killed by the first stroke of spears or arrows; and 
which forbids cooking game destroyed by infidel hands. 
With the exception of hawking, common in Asia Minor 
and the provinces bordering the south-eastern shores of 
the Black Sea, sporting is unknown, as an amusement, 
to the Constantinopolitans. The markets of Pera and 
Galata are, nevertheless, abundantly supplied with hares, 
pheasants, woodcocks, quails, partridges, and roe-deer, 
with an infinity of small birds of every denomination. 
These are brought by Bulgarian poachers or licensed 
sportsmen, who generally beat for game in the valleys 



GAME. 93 

upon the Asiatic coast, where pheasants are met with, 
and where woodcock, snipe, and quail abound. 

In spring, and at other migratory seasons, quails 
arrive in great numbers. It is then the custom for 
Perotes and Frank residents to make shooting parties to 
the vicinity of St. Stefano, south of the city, and to the 
neighbourhood of Kila, on the Black Sea. A govern- 
ment permit, or game certificate, is required upon these 
occasions; otherwise the local authorities and military 
patroles are empowered to seize persons carrying arms, 
and to confiscate their weapons. These teskereh (licenses) 
are readily granted to foreigners, upon proper application 
to their respective legations *. 

The daily mode of life of respectable inhabitants of 
Stambol may here be appropriately described. 

In summer and winter, the whole family rise at 
earliest dawn, and, after performing abdest (partial ablu- 
tion), say first prayer, which is speedily accomplished. 

* Game Certificate, or Teskereh for Shooting. 

As proof of being permitted to shoot, with his own hand, in Roomelia 
and Anatolia, this license is granted to A. B., a suhject of Great Britain, 
the same having been notified and demanded by the Ambassador of the 
said kingdom, resident at the Porte of Felicity. It is understood, how- 
ever, that the said A. B. is not to discharge his gun in the vicinity of the 
royal palaces, kioshks, or barracks, or near places where men assemble 
(for pleasure or business) ; he is also forbidden to pass barriers or fences 
(on private property). This our license is granted for the year , 

from the 1st of September to the end of February (Greek calendar). In 
virtue of this present hunting and shooting certificate, all imperial troops 
and authorities are enjoined not to cause let or hindrance to the bearer. 

This license is given by the deputy of his Excellency the Serasker at 
the Porte. 

1st Shaban, 1258 (1842). 



94 REPASTs. 

In summer, masters and ladies, but not servants, return 
for two hours to bed. In winter, the former also con- 
tinue on foot. Upon rifling definitively, men quit their 
harems, and are served with I pipe and a cup of coffee. 
The ladies also take ooflee, make a alight toilet, and 
commence household duties. About two hours last 
breakfast appears. This consists of bread. ■TrtwtiinmtB t 
yaoort, fruit, caviar, water, and afterwards ooflee. This 
being terminated, the nun proceed to their daily avoca- 
tions. The ladies dr< as, and occupy themselves with 
their children's education and domestic concerns. 

After mid-day prayer, a light luncheon is served to 
those who arc at home. This npnfifffr of four or five 
dishes of meal tables, and pastry, with coffee. The 

ladies then visit, shop, go to the bath, or amuse themselves. 
A little before Bnnset, the whole family returns home, 
and dinner is served, at all seasons, immediately after 
ak.-ham (sunset) prayers. Masters and their BOOS some- 
times dine in the harem; but more frequently in the 
Balamlyk, at few days occur without their receiving two 
or three friends. 

Dinner is a rapid process, rarely lasting more than half 
an hour. When this repa-t i» announced, or served in 
the same apartment where the master is sitting, a servant 
brings a metal ewer and basin (ibrik and layan*), and, 
placing himself in a crouching attitude, first pours water 
over guests 1 hands, and then over those of the host. 
Another servant presents the narrow embroidered nap- 
kin. This is generally done before entering the dining 
* See vignette, vol. i. c. viii. 



REPASTS. 95 

apartment, when separate, and on one side of the room 
when in the same chamber*. A low sofra or skemla 
(table) is then brought in, and deposited in the angle of 
the divan. Upon this is placed a tabla or siny (metal 
tray), sometimes elevated in the centre. Upon this 
raised centre is a flattened circle, large enough for one dish 
(sahn.) 

Plates, knives, forks, and glasses are used only when 
Europeans are present, and even then are not considered 
indispensable. A piece of bread, and a prettily carved 
wooden spoon, for soups, pilaf, and other dishes, mark 
the place of each guest, and other spoons are presented 
for khoshab. On taking his place, each person re- 
ceives a napkin (peshkyr), more or less embroidered, to 
spread over his knees. The person highest in rank sits 
upon the host's left hand. The dishes are brought in 
one by one, commencing with soup; and each person, 
having said the grace called Besmela-f-, helps himself as 
fast as decency will permit, and the dish is then removed 
at a signal from the master, or by his saying " kalder" 
(take away.) 

The pilaf and khoshab being disposed of, all present 
repeat or ought to repeat the Hamdalla, or second grace, 
which runs thus, " Ilhamd-'ul-illah ir-rebb , -ul-aleminn , ' , 
(thanks be to God, Sovereign Lord of the universe). 
Thereupon all rise, the servants approach with ewers and 

* "When the host is of decidedly superior rank, he takes precedence 
in ablutions and place. 

•f It consists of these words, B'izm 'illah ir-rahman ir-rahmin (in the 
name of God the clement and merciful). 



9G REPASTS. 

basins, offering them in succession to the quests. The 
table is then removed, or the party retires to some other 
apartment, where coffee and pipes arc served. The 
remainder of the evening is passed in conversation, not 
forgetting the fifth prayer. About nine, guests, who do 
not remain to sleep in the house, retire, and the master 
withdraws to his harem, where the same ceremonies have 
been coins on anions: the ladies. About ten, mattresses 
and coverlets are taken from the closets; the beds arc 
made on the floors, and ere long the whole family is 
asleep. Now and then, during the long winter evenio 
coffee or sherbets are served, but it is not a general 
practice to take any food or liquid, except water, after 
the sunset meal. 

When Europeans dine at the houses of some Turkish 
gentlemen, wine is presented, and this in profusion. 
But the generality of Turks, however much they may 
indulge in private or when among intimates, abstain from 
this enjoyment before Btrangers. Many nun of rank, 
whom we do not care to mention, are, nevertheless, 
known to drink freely, and this also of strong spirituous 
liquids; but the majority of the population rigidly ad- 
here to the prescribed laws. 

It is admitted, however, that indulgence in wine and 
ardent spirits is becoming more common, that many per- 
sons professing severe external austerity are guilty of 
intemperance at home, and that ardent spirits have sup- 
plied the place of opium. 

On certain occasions the highest Turkish functionaries 
will set aside all scruples and indulge in a manner that 



INDULGENCE IN WINE. 97 

would draw tears from the worthy Irish "Apostle of 
Temperance.'" For instance, at the dinners and fetes 
given by embassies, they may be seen pouring down glass 
after glass of champagne, with a faculty of resistance 
that indicates stout stomachs and practised heads. Those 
who indulge at home drink wine and spirits before and 
after, but not during, dinner. Some are known to swal- 
low a pint, or even a bottle, of the strongest raki (a 
spurious rum), as a foundation for the evening meal. 
The wines most prized by them are Cyprus, Tenedos, 
Samos, and champagne. Claret, Madeira, and Sherry, 
are not suited to their palates; and port is to them, as 
we hope it was not to Mr. Methuen, a burning foretaste 
of yehanum. 

It is evident from this, that the interpretations of the 
Kooran and Hadiss, enforced by anathemas of the Pro- 
phet and the most celebrated Mouftys, and by sanguinary 
edicts of divers Sultans, have not proved successful bar- 
riers against the inroads of indulgences, for the most part 
carried to excess*. Orientals cannot comprehend the 
enjoyment of what is termed " a social glass." When 
they drink, it is generally without moderation, and appa- 
rently for the sole purpose of procuring extreme excite- 
ment. They care not for the nausea and pains that 
accompany a return to sobriety; or, if they do heed these 

* The Kooran does not specifically interdict wine. Mohammed, being 
reminded of this omission by Abou Bekr, who found that many disciples 
indulged to excess, anathematized drinking in these words: "He who 
drinks wine is like unto him that worships idols. AVine is the mother 
of abominations. The moment a man raises a cup to his lips, the curses 
of all God's angels fall upon his head." 

VOL. III. ' F 



98 INDULGENCE IN WINE. 

consequences, the remedy i.s not a hair, but the whole 
skin of the biting dog. 

It has been observed to Turks, even by their own 
countrymen, desirous to introduce reforms and innova- 
tions, " Tf you, the great of the land, and even dervishes 
themselves, tram the Prop] injunctions, for this 

and other purposes still more abominable, why affect 
scrupulousness in infringing other laws, tin- result of 
which could be eminently moral and beneficial to your 
country!' 1 

To this their casuists reply, "The infraction of one 
law by godless men is no excuse for the violation of 
others. Wine-bibbers are exceptions — nun despised of 
the people, and doomed to merciless retribution.* 

They then point out camples some of their own 

Sultans, and say. "The misfortune that betel Bajaset I. 
evidently resulted from his drunkenness and dissolute 
habits. Timour carried in his hand the avenging Bword 
of the Almighty, and visited upon the monarch and bis 
subjects the foul sins engendered by the former, and 
matured by the latter. Bajaset II.. regardless of this 
warning, followed, for a time, in his steps, and would 
have terminated his career in a similar manner, had not 
the Prophet, taking pity upon him and his people, con- 
verted him from an unblushing drunkard into a most 
contrite and sainted penitent*. 1 



•a 



* It was this Sultan who first established the sherah emini (inspector 
of wines) — an office attached to the court, and continued with slight in- 
terruption from 1490 to the present day, though the title has heen re- 
cently changed to that of zedjria emini. The duties of this officer aud 



INDULGENCE IN WINE. 99 

Selim II., whose adventure with the unfortunate chief 
cook has been narrated, is pointed out as another instance 
of excess and of divine retribution. His name lives in 
the memory of the people, coupled with the degrading 
epithet of Bekry (the drunkard.) Mustafa I. and Osman 
II. are also cited as free drinkers. The one was de- 
throned and the other murdered. After the strangula- 
tion of the second in 1622, and the death of the first in 
1623, rigid Moslems were not shocked by similar excesses 
in those who, in all countries, ought to be the model, 
and as it were the religion, of the people*. 

Following the example of sobriety and deference to 
holy precepts, given by Mohammed II., by Selim I., by 
Suleiman the Great, by Bajazet II. in his latter years, by 
Mohammed III., and by Achmet I., Murad IV. perse- 
secuted all transgressors with relentless severity. He 
burned all ships laden with wine, abolished the office of 
sherab emini, and tore down all shops where fermented 
liquors, coffee, and tobacco were sold. He hung up 
opium-eaters, beheaded smokers, bastinadoed coffee-house 
keepers, and impaled wine-drinkers. To as great a de- 
gree as Selim II. was lax and besotted, was Murad IV. 
austere and sober. His severity extended even to Chris- 
tians. They, however, were enabled to purchase licences 
from the agha of janissaries, who, being charged with 
this branch of police, derived large profits from the sale 

his deputies are not only to provide wine for the imperial cellars, but to 
issue licences to tavern-keepers who sell wines and spirits. 

* A pious Turkish historian, Sad'uddinu, has said, " The religion of 
the people is always that of the prince who governs them" — meaning 
thereby that the examples of monarchs influence the morals of subjects, 

F 2 



100 



INDULGENCE IN WINE. 



of permits. From Murad's decease in 1640 until the 
latter years of the late Sultan Mahmoud II., only one 
instance of imperial intemperance occurred. That was 
in Ibrahim, a weak and depraved monarch, who mot 
with a violent death in 1648. He did not permit wine- 
drinking publicly, but indulged himself to a brutal exc 
in private. It has been related in a former chapter that 
his son, afterwards Mohammed IV.. had nearly fallen 
a victim to the fury of his drunken father. 

Mahmoud II., unfortunately for his country, was 
more disposed to follow the pernicious example of Ibra- 
him than the austerity of Murad. During the last ten 
years of his life, bis passion for indulgence gradually 
increased, until within the last two years, when, finding 
all ordinary mediums of excitement ineffectual, he had 
recourse to pure alcohol. If we are to give credit to 
the assertions of well informed persons, the delirium 
tremens, which prematurely terminated the <;rcat re- 
former's career, on the 1st of duly. 1839, must bo 
mainly attributed to this fatal indulgena ■ 

On the demise of Mahmoud, his cellar contained 
many hundred bottles of the choicest wines and most 
powerful Bpirits. The Valida Sultana, eager to inspire 
her son with detestation for the bevera&e that had led to 

• A post mortom discussion took place as to the causes of Mahmoud'g 
death. In this the ablest physicians of Pera took part ; but the argu- 
ments of those who sought to remove the general opinion were com- 
pletely unsuccessful. It is probable that, lnd Dr. Millingen and others 
been called in earlier, Mahmoud would still be alive. The imperial 
wine-merchant was a Belgian, 51. Le Moine, established at Galata. 
Ho stated that lie was compelled to falsify all wines by adding brandies. 
The strongest unadulterated wines were found too insipid. 



INDULGENCE IN WINE. 101 

his father's death, induced the young Sultan to order 
every bottle to be broken and cast into the Bosphorus, 
and with them all the decanters and glasses that served 
as accessories. Abdoul Medjid Khan has shown himself 
a full participator in his mother's sentiments. Up to 
the present time, he has abstained from wine and 
smoking, and is known, as regards diet, to be extremely 
temperate and abstemious. 

It is not uncommon for those who indulge in wine to 
arrange parties upon the shores of the Bosphorus; there 
they gladden their eyes with lovely prospects, whilst 
they regale their throats with forbidden juices. On 
these occasions, a supply of provisions is carried by each ; 
a fire is made beneath some gigantic plane or cypress; 
and then the servants re-warm the evening repast, 
previously cooked at home. Carpets and cushions are 
spread upon a spot commanding the most favourable 
views, and here the party seat themselves and wait until 
sun-down to commence their revelry. 

So long as it is light, they content themselves with 
smoking, conversing, fingering their beads, eating 
melons, and drinking coffee or water. But when night 
throws its veil around them, and intrusive eyes can no 
longer watch their actions, then comes the flow of wine, 
if not the feast of soul. Musicians are sometimes hired 
to enliven the party with strange sounds, produced by 
stranger instruments, accompanying most discordant 
voices. The performers in this case are generally gipsies 
or Greeks, five or six of whom compose an orchestra. 
Their instruments are the tamboor (eight-corded Persian 



102 MUSIC. 

lute), the keman (violin), the kcmcnsha (violoncello), 
the kanoon (dulcimer), the lavoot (common guitar), and 
sometimes thu clarionet ia. or nay (Hute) of the .Mevlevy 
Dervishes. 

It occurs, now and then, that one or more of tho 
party arc performers on the tamboor, and accompany 
their own voices. I once went with Mr. I. ; gworth to a 
party of this kind, c< \ bm Tnrks and Penrians. 

\Ve were promised the pleasure of hearing a celebrated 
amateur performer on the above instrument, and a Per- 
sian equally renowned for the melody of his Tho 
spot selected Mas the sheltered extremity of Fsnat 
Boornou, southward of Scutari, near the lightdioi 
whose stunted shaft now occupies the site whereon stood 
the graceful marble columns of a temple, dedicated to 
Venus Marina. 

The ruined walls of the once beautiful Kioahk, where 
Sultan Murad IV. was wont to relax with his kadinns, 
served as our kitchen, while the gnarled branches of tho 
once luxuriant cypresses and planes threw their shade 
over our carpets. Constantinople, from Seraglio Point 
to the Seven Towers, rose in amphitheatrical splendour 
before us. To the right, appeared the Virgins Tower, 
Tophana, and the dark cypresses of the Pera cemetery. 
To our left, the Propmuis stretched its mirror-liko 
bosom to the foot of the Princes 1 Islands, which presented 
their blue flanks and sparkling summits, as a foreground 
to the snow-tinged Olympus. Hundreds of light vessels 
skimmed to and fro upon the adjacent waters, and 
flocks of milk-white gulls soared round the remnants of 



MUSIC. 103 

Venus Aphrodite's watch-tower, now separated from 
the main land, and having more the appearance of 
natural fragments than architectural remains*. 

The time between landing and dinner was passed as 
usual in smoking and conversation, now and then 
animated by a discussion as to the merits of Turks and 
Persians, neither party being scrupulous of their sar- 
casms on the other. At length the sun descended; the 
muezinn mounted the minarets; our friends went rapidly 
through their devotions, and, ere that indescribable and 
inimitable violet haze, which tinges the landscape for a 
brief space, had melted into less vivid colours, dinner 
was served and fingers and mouths were busily em- 
ployed. When the pilaf was removed, it was replaced 
by champagne; the whole party were soon in full train 
for merriment, and the moon had scarcely risen from be- 
hind the Boulgarlou hills, before music was loudly called 
for. This was readily acceded to, and silence obtained. 

The first performer was a Persian, a young merchant 
from Shiraz. His instrument was the eight-stringed 
lute. He gave us a gazel of Hafiz, of which the words 
were superior to the melody. He was followed by a 
Turkish Effendy, a secretary in a public office. His 
instrument was the lavoot, and here the accompaniment 

* According to Raschid, cited by Von Hammer, the Virgin's Tower, 
the ancient DamaHs, was rebuilt as it now appears, in 1763, by Sultan 
Mustafa III. The fragments now seen at the distance of about one 
hundred yards from the point of Fanar Boornou, are ascribed by different 
writers to different temples. It is probable that the ruin was formerly 
connected with the main laud, and that the masses of stone formed part; 
of a li^ht and watch-tower. 



104 MUSIC. 

far surpassed both voice and poetry. It would lie im- 
possible to convey any idea of the sounds produced by 
the guttural voice of the Shirazy, or to describe the nasal 
tones and prolonged " counter-alto-sostenuto' , of the 
Stamboly. To European ears, neither bore an approach 
to music, but to those of both Persians and Turks, they 
appeared to be harmonious as the notes of larafil. 
Several other songs followed. Mr. Longworth selected 
two of these, and turned them into English verse. 

The Turkish couplets arc by Hashmet Effendy, a 
protege* of the celebrated Rhagib Pasha, and a mystic 
poet, well known to Turkish scholars. The Persian 
verses arc by the immortal Haliz. Both are faithful to 
the original in letter ami spirit. 

(,'nzcl qf Hashmet Effendf. 

Than him who knows the world aright, ' 

There's none can jn-i/.c the false world less; 
To him who is content to slight, 
The world is bnt a wilderness. 

Its genial cap is dash'd to earth — 
The world no more to joy shall waken. 

Where is the wine that caused its mirth? 
Shed — and its festive halls forsaken. 

The world, whose glare the good dismays, 

Fierce as a meteor of the night, 
Itself is but a moth that plays 

Round some ignoble orgie's light. 

Oh, Hashmet ! teach thy heart to soar 

To'realms of heavenly solitude — 
Far from the world's tumultuous roar — 

Degraded nest of folly's broodf. 

" The word gazel means an ode or sonnet. 

■f In the original, instead of "To realms," is Huma, the fabulous 
eagle of the Mystics. 



MUSIC. 105 

Gazel of Hafiz, 

Look not, ye saints, with churlish eye 

On what pool* lovers do amiss. 
For us the voice of destiny 

Ordained no other cup than this. 

This cup, whate'er my love may think 

Is meet to mingle there, I'll drain — 
Be it the wine, the blessed drink, 

Or that which fires a mortal's brain. 

Lured by a flask of ruby wine, 

Or by a lock of beauty's hair, 
Hafiz ! how many vows like thine 

Have quickly melted into air ! 

Trades intimately connected with that of cooks are 
those of butchers, bakers, and poulterers. Meat, prin- 
cipally mutton, is supplied by the neighbouring districts 
of Roomelia and Anatolia, except about the time of 
Beiram, when numerous flocks are driven towards the 
capital from distant provinces*. The sheep are of 
various kinds. Those of the European districts are 
small, long-horned, long-woolled, and resembling the 
coarse breeds of England. The most esteemed are fed 
upon the downs and pastures at the foot of the Balkan. 
No pains are taken to improve or cross the breeds, and 
no amendment, consequently, takes place in fleece or 
carcase. The one is coarse and wiry, the other meagre 
and bony. 

Sheep brought to market rarely exceed forty-four and 
generally average thirty-six pounds. Being fed upon 
mountain herbage, abounding with aromatic plants, 

* It is needless to observe that swine are forbidden. They are, how- 
ever, slaughtered for the use of Christians, and pork is sold at Pera. 

F 3 



106 SHEEP. 

their flesh is sweet, and lamb is superexcellent. With 
(-•are. the Roomelian and BalgariaD breeds might bo 
rendered equal in fleece I m uf the Crimea; and 

Turkey might thereby obtain an important export. 
But, unfortunately, the band to mouth I I of 

government and proprietors pre all thoughts of 

amendment, either administrative or agricultural. The 
proverb, "ghami ferd&ii feramoosh aila" (lot the cares of 
to-morrow bo forgotten), is the prevalent maxim and 
guide of all classes. 

Mr. Hanson, of Galata, Yavar Pasha (Captain Sir 
B. Walker, R.N.) and Col. Williams, K.A.. have pur- 
chased hvnd near Broussa and Rodosto, where they have 
established model farms, and introduced improved sys- 
tems of agriculture. The profits which, it is to be 
Imped, they will derive from these speculations, may 
induce Turkish proprietors to follow their laudable 
example, and Turkey may thus be indebted to them 
for the development of some of those valuable resources 
which abound on all Bides. Other foreigners or wealthy 
Rayas may also tread in the steps of our honourable 
countrymen; but this cannot happen until laws aro 
firmly established, granting security to property, and 
placing landholders beyond the capricious vexations of 
fiscal agents and provincial 0] 'pressors. But, in lieu of 
offering facilities to the employment of foreign capital 
in these and other improvements, the Porte, at the 
instigation of Riza Pasha, has recently issued a decree 
rendering such speculations more hazardous than in 
former times. It has forbidden the acquisition of pro- 



butcher's meat. 107 

perty by all persons not actually subjects of the Porte 
by means of fictitious sales; that is, through the medium 
of nominal purchases, in the names of Rayas. 

The Anatolian breeds of sheep are larger and coarser 
than those of Roomelia. Their heads are heavy and 
strongly arched, their legs long and bony, and their fleeces 
extremely coarse. Their weight averages from fifty to 
sixty pounds, but they are not preferred for the kitchen. 
The broad-tailed doomba is not uncommon. It is a 
large, unwieldy animal, with superabundant offal. Its 
tail-fat, sometimes weighing twelve or fourteen pounds, 
is esteemed for culinary purposes. 

Beef is rarely employed by Turks ; but calves, oxen, 
and young buffaloes, are slaughtered for the Christian po- 
pulation. Thus the hospitable tables of our Ambassador 
and Consul-General are often furnished with most 
respectable sirloins and fillets, which cause those invited 
to imagine themselves re-transported to our generous 
native land. 

The average price of mutton per oka (2f lb.), as fixed 
by government, is ninety paras ; but it is rarely retailed 
under three piastres per oka, or about 2|c7. per pound. 
Beef is somewhat cheaper. During the first weeks 
after lambing season, which commences early in March, 
these immaculate quadrupeds cannot be purchased under 
twenty-five or thirty piastres, and then only by stealth, 
as the law ordains that the murderous knife shall not 
interrupt their innocent gambols until St. George's day, 
old style. 

Shepherds or butchers infringing this law are liable to 



108 DITCHERS. 

fine and punishment. This is enforced with a view of 
not destroying the race, or injuring the ewes by de- 
priving them too early of their young — a useless pre- 
caution, as hrccders and shepherds are the hest judges of 
their own interests. After St. George's day, at which 
time vast flocks of lambs and kids arc driven into the 
city, and purchased with avidity by persons of all creeds, 
Iambs weighing from fifteen to twenty pounds are dis- 
posed of for ahout twenty piastres each. Small sheep, 
without defect of horn, hoof, or fleece, are sold at Beirara 
for thirty or thirty-five piastres. At other sc:i-"ii«. fine 
two-year olds average forty piastres, including fleece. 

The kassab (butchers) corporation, formerly all Janis- 
saries, is now composed of Moslems and Christians. 
They are forbidden to kill meat within the walls. This 
ought to be done outside the city by licensed slaughterers. 
But the law is comparatively a dead letter; and thus tho 
vicinities of butchers' stalls at Pera, Galata. and some 
parts of the Fanar, reek with villanous odour?:. It is 
legal to kill animals for individual sacrifice at private 
residences; on all other occasions it is ordained that they 
shall be deprived of life at two great abattoirs constructed 
for the purpose; the one beyond the Seven Towers, the 
other facing the sea at Tchatlada Kapoossy, underneath 
Kutchuk Ava Sofia. 

The sheep and cattle markets arc on the plains outside 
the land wall. Here butchers purchase the required 
number, and thence drive them to the slaughter-houses, 
where curriers assemble to purchase skins, which are 
cured at the tanneries near the Seven Towers and at 



BUTCHERS. 109 

Eyoub. Butchers also purchase sheep and goats from 
shepherds feeding their flocks on the neighbouring emi- 
nences, but folding them within the city and suburbs at 
night. The animals thus purchased are slaughtered 
outside, and brought into town at sunset on asses. 

The mode of slaughtering animals for Musselman 
consumption is strictly defined by religious law. Three 
essentials must be observed: 1st, it is requisite, on 
applying the knife to the animal's throat, to invoke the 
name of the Almighty, by uttering the bismella. If this 
be omitted, the flesh is considered impure. 2ndly, the 
throat must be cut transversely with the edge and not 
stabbed with the point, so as to separate the trachea and 
the great arteries as far back as the vertebrae, and 
thereby to cause immediate death. Srdly, the slaughterer 
ought to be a Musselman; but the meat is not impure, 
if killed by a Christian or Jew, provided he fulfils the 
two previous conditions. 

Butchers and slaughterers venerate Abraham as their 
patron, in commemoration of the sacrifice, which being 
supposed to have taken place on the 10th of Zilhidge, or 
eve of Coorban Beiram, this day is regarded with extra- 
ordinary reverence by both trades. On this occasion 
they offer up many sacrifices, and distribute the flesh 
among the poor. Moses is held to be the patron of shep- 
herds and drovers, in memory of his watering the flocks 
of Zipporah's father, in the valley of Midian. 

The Sultan possesses several large farms and sheep- 
walks, in the valley of Ali Bey Kouy, and adjacent parts. 
His shepherds, who wear a peculiar fez and dress, are 



110 AGRICULTURAL TRODUCE. 

Bulgarians, enjoying sundry privileges. They pay no 
haratch, and are permitted to feed their flocks, even heforo 
harvest is housed, round the cultivated lands; they have 
a tithe on corn, olives, poultry, lambs, calves, and milk, 
within their districts, as their perquisites and wages. 
They are a hardy and independent race of men, and their 
noble doss are as remarkable as their own dress aud stal- 

O 

wart persons. 

The law called bozook, which permits owners of cattle, 
camels, and sheep to pasture wherever they list, so soon 
as harvest is removed, causes grievous damage to fanners, 
especially where there are plantations of olive, mulberry, 
and fruit trees. This is severely felt around Smyrna, 
where the long-necked camels tear off branches, nip 
young shoots, and destroy or mutilate half the trees, on 
which depend the resources of silk and oil cultivators. 

The admitted necessity for amending the system and 
condition of agricultural labourers recently led to tho 
establishment of a Board of Agriculture in the capital. 
This board may render service, if it be not deterred by 
obstacles invariably thrown in the way of reform, and if 
it be prevented from creating advantages and privileges for 
particular classes. In no country arc the gifts of nature 
more varied and abundant. No where has Almighty 
Providence stretched forth its fostering hand with moro 
generous prodigality. Earth, air, and water alike unite 
to favour cultivation, aud invite men to profit by God's 
munificence. 

AH that the surface or bowels of the earth can produce 
is met with in virgin and diversified profusion. Corn, 



AGRICULTURAL PRODUCE. Ill 

fruit, oil, wine, and salt, iron, coal, and copper, spring as 
it -were spontaneously from the soil. A temperate cli- 
mate permits uninterrupted labour. Abundant streams 
favour irrigation. Facilities of material and position 
encourage the formation of roads and canals. Intermi- 
nable pasturages offer means for improving the growth of 
wools. Mulberries, of luxuriant foliage, are adapted for 
the finest silks. Forests of noble timber clothe the 
mountain flanks. In short nothing is required but a 
well-regulated system of cultivation, and above all that 
protection and encouragement for the agricultural popu- 
lation, the want of which is now so fatal to general and 
individual welfare. 

Turkey even now produces infinitely more than it can 
consume. Were the Porte to reduce its impolitic export 
duties, to encourage the introduction and employment of 
foreign capital and industry, to protect landholders from 
the monstrous exactions of local governors and subordi- 
nate agents, and to establish premiums for superior culti- 
vation, in the shape of exemption from haratch and 
taxation — were the Porte to do this frankly and firmly, 
there is reason to assert that the Ottoman provinces 
might grow sufficient corn, oil, cotton, silk, and wool, to 
supply all Europe, or, at all events, to turn the balanco 
of imports and exports in its favour. 

The agricultural board must not attempt too much or 
act abruptly. Innovations, political and practical, must 
be gradual. The tree of corruption and routine must be 
plucked of its rank foliage, leaf by leaf. The over-ardour 
of Reschid Pasha led to the re-action that has recently 



112 AGRICULTURAL BOARD. 

taken place under the retrograde hypocrisy of Riza Pasha 
and his confederates. Gul Khana, created wuth feeble 
chances of vitality, has thus been treated as though il 
had been still-born; and the constant meddling and 
interference of foreign legations in the internal affairs ol 
the empire, in lieu of tending to improvement, have lee 
to opposite results. 

Constantly harassed by all, confiding in none, deceived 
by some, and tyrannized over by others, the Porte appeal! 
to have assumed a sullen determination to insulate itself 
as far as possible, from the contact of European govern- 
ments, and to revive its anti-progressive dogmas. Tc 
France, who alone waits for a plausible excuse for seizing 
upon Tunis — to Russia, who is already undisputed mis- 
tress of Wallachia, Moldavia, and Servia, and will, ere 
long, most probably revolutionize Bulgaria — to them, and 
even to Austria, these results may be satisfactory, since 
they tend to hasten the catastrophe, from which thej 
cannot fail to reap advantage. Put to England the pros- 
pect is replete with perils and embarrassments. She 
alone must lose by the gradual enfeeblement and abridg- 
ment of the Sultan's power and territory. 

The first exertions of the Constantinople Agricultural 
Board should be directed to the progressive removal oi 
abuses and vexations: then let it attempt practical im- 
provements. Let the peasant be relieved from the into- 
lerable burdens imposed upon him by venal local autho- 
rities. Let him feel that he has an interest in his 
labours. Inspire him with confidence in the government, 
and do not force him to till the soil for the sole purpose 



BAKERS. 113 

of enabling him to support immense taxation. Let the 
conscription laws, now administered with fatal partiality, 
be amended, and thereby one of the evils which coun- 
teract increase of Moslem population in the rural districts 
will be diminished. 

Let the government improve its roads and establish 
neans of communication. The price of powder annually 
expended in salutes at Beiram and at the births of impe- 
•ial offspring would almost suffice for the former purpose. 
3f what use is it to produce, when there are no means of 
ransport, or when those means are so expensive as to 
louble prime cost? Take, for instance, wheat, which, 
it the distance of one hundred miles from Smyrna, costs 
sight piastres (Is. 4J.) the cwt. To" £ transport three cwt., 
he ordinary load of a camel, eighteen piastres, including 
various extra expenses, .are demanded. Thus, before 
[rain reaches the coast, the price is augmented 75 per 
:ent. 

Let us now proceed and examine the shop of a baker> 
vdio lives hard by. 

The etmekjee form a numerous corporation, divided 
nto various subdivisions. They and their syndics are 
inder more rigid control than any other trade. Prices 
nd weights are strictly regulated by government; and 
,n inspector of police, charged with verifying both, 
epeatedly visits the different shops to examine and 
veigh bread, at the moment that it is taken from the 
iven. The days are gone by when roguish bakers were 
tailed by the ear to their own door-posts. Now, when 
iiscovered selling short weight or deleterious mixtures, 



314 BAKERS. 

they arc punished by confiscation, imprisonment, and tine, 
equal to the value of the whole batch proved to havo 
been baked. The bread eaten by Turks is of different 
kinds, all more or less adulterated, heavy, and indiges- 
tible. It is to the bad quality of this essential article of 
food, not counteracted by the use of farinaceous vegetables 
and solid meat, that medical men mainly attribute the 
prevalence of those gastric ailments, which carry off so 
large a portion of the infant population, and influcnco 
the duration of life at maturer age. 

Bread, according to police regulations, is divided into 
five qualities — 1st, that called franjelas, (a kind of roll), 
containing more purr dour than any other, and sold at 
ten paras the roll, or sixty the oka. 2. Loaves of less 
pure quality averaging lilt;. the oka. o. Tho samo 

mixed with rye, costing forty paras. 4. Square, heavy 
rolls, called somoom, consisting of a mixture of barley, 
wheat, and beans, costing twenty-four paras. 5. Pide 
or fodola, ilat, tough cakes, in which there is little 
wheat or good flour ; these indigestible compositions are 
the universal food of the lower orders, and cost twenty 
paras. The latter were issued to the Janissaries ; tho 
somoon are now given as rations to the troops and navy 
in port. Bakers also sell a kind of rusk, of pleasant 
flavour, preferable to and more wholesome than bread, 
costing four piastres the oka. 

The average price of common bread, eaten by the 
lower orders, may be taken at one penny for forty-four 
ounces; that of the better quality, generally met with at 
Turkish houses, two pence for the same quantity. The 



BAKERS. 115 

adulteration is so great, the flour so impure, and the pro- 
cess of baking so defective, that Constantinople, with 
every possible advantage of supply, produces the worst 
bread in Europe. This is found to be so inconvenient 
that Embassies generally import flour from Tanganroc 
and bake their own bread. 

Among other privileges granted to foreign legations is 
that of establishing bakehouses, which are let to Rayas, 
who thereby not only escape haratch, as pretended 
servants of these Legations, but are enabled to evade the 
law restricting prices and weights. If the one be raised 
above the tariff, or the other discovered to be short, the 
culprits boldly declare that the bread is baked for the 
protecting embassy, and that they merely sell a portion, 
as a favour, to the public. They moreover obtain their 
corn cheaper, by avoiding import duties — in short, many 
schemes are practised by which they derive great profits, 
and are thus enabled to pay high rents to the dragomans, 
who, in some instances, it appears, are allowed to dispose 
of their employer's protection. 

Thus it was said, at the commencement of 1842, that 
the Prussian Legation permitted its dragoman to estab- 
lish agents in four or five bakehouses at Pera, where 
high prices and short weights became so notorious, that 
the Turkish governor of Tophana forbade the sale of 
franjelas, during several days. At length, the dragoman 
or his agents found it necessary to offer guarantees for 
more honourable dealings. It is a melancholy fact, that 
at Constantinople, in most cases where Legations inter- 
fere, or extend their protection, the results are, on the 



116 MILLERS. 

one hand, abuses and infractions of beneficial laws, 
or, on the other, complete failure of wholesome pur- 
poses. 

This evil of interference is carried to extreme lengths 
in the provinces, where Consuls frequently arrogate to 
themselves rights and advance pretensions inconsistent 
with their attributes, inimical to the interests of their 
country, producing irritating discussions with the local 
authorities, and thence causing incessant trouble to their 
Chiefs at Pera. and to their Governments at home. 
Tin- system was found to be so inconvenient, that Sir 
Stratford Canning recently addressed a monitory circular 
upon the subject to the whole consular department 
within his jurisdiction. This letter, couched in forcible 
terms, was amply called tor. and highly approved of both 
by the Porte and the public. 

Degucrminjee (millers) and oonjee (mcalmen) closo 
leagued with bakers, are principally concerned in tho 
adulteration of flour and in keeping op prices, which 
rarely decrease, no matter how abundant the harvest, but 
are often raised upon the slightest pretext. The meal- 
men and corn-factors have their warehouses near tho 
gate which derives its name, Oon Kapan, from their 
vicinity. Their consignments are imported from tho 
interior, from Galatz, and from Odessa. In proportion 
as they receive orders from bakers, they send their corn 
to the neighbouring mills, after it has been sifted by their 
workmen, who perform this operation dexterously with 
large sieves. As there is a difference of twenty-four and 
fifty paras the oka, between the grain before grinding 



MILLERS. 117 

and the meal retailed by bakers — the profits are one 
hundred per cent. 

From the absence of running water, the mills of Con- 
stantinople are exclusively turned by horses. Workmen, 
with few exceptions Moslems and Armenians from the 
province of Van, are brought up to the trade from gene- 
ration to generation. The heights around the city are 
favourable for the construction of windmills; but not 
above half a dozen are to be met with on either side of 
the Bosphorus. Horse-mills abound in various quarters, 
but the principal establishments are in the street leading 
from Oon Kapan Kapoossy, through the valley between 
the third and fourth hills, to the Shahzadeh Mosque and 
Valens 1 Aqueduct. 

Mills are upon the simplest construction and moved 
by one horse. The animals work for one hour at a spell, 
and appear in good condition. Those that carry the 
grain or meal to and fro are among the most active of 
the country breeds. 

A fine steam-mill of thirty horse power was erected in 
1839 by a Belgian speculator, M. Le Moine, who sold 
his interest to Halil Pasha, the richest and most wealthy 
proprietor in the city. Halil subsequently disposed of 
the whole establishment to the government, who farmed 
it to an Armenian. 

The guild of bakers, corn-factors, and millers, are con- 
strained to admit that Adam was the first of their craft. 
He is supposed to have been taught by the archangel 
Gabriel to bruise wheat between two stones, and, having 
made dough therewith, to bake it in a hole in the ground. 



118 SERASKEll'S SQUARE. 

Nevertheless, as- there is a tendency on the part of th 
people to limit their antecedents to the times of Moham- 
med, many of the trade ascribe the building of the first 
oven to Omer Be r be ri, a disciple and attendant on the 
Prophet. Xo trade often greater facilities for amaaring 
money than that of bakers. This is proved by the mosques 
erected at* various periods by members of the craft. 
Two of tl t Constantinople and a third at 

Galata are distil: I by the name of etmekjec (bread* 

men). But many more bakers have lost heads or ears on 
earth for rogueries than have gained paradise throuji 
virtues. 

One of the finest and most spacious konaks (mansions) 
of the city belongs to a retired etmekjee baahy. 
numerous apartments, lofty walls, and verdant gardens, 
form a conspicuous object, near the library of Aalif 
Eftendy, west of the Suleimanya. 

On quitting Divan Yolly, the second turning on tho 
right conducts to the Serasker's Square, the ancient 
Forum Tauri. This space, now partly occupied by the 
War Department, and by the appurtenances of Sultan 
Bajazet, was converted into a forum, a.d. 393, hy 
Theodosius T, who erected a column in the centre, sur- 
mounted with his own statue in silver. This was 
destroyed by an earthquake in 170, and was replaced by 
another statue of Anastasius I., the reigning Emperor. 
All vestiges of its ancient architectural adornments have 
long disappeared. It is, however, the largest open space 
within the walls, and during Ramazan is the fashionable, 
rendezvous of all great ladies, who parade here, between 



POULTRY MARKET. 119 

nid-day and sunset prayer, in arabas and telekas. It 
nay then be compared to Hyde Park on Sundays. 

The Sultan on these occasions places himself at an 
tpartment in Divan Yolly, fronting the Stationers'' 
narket, and there diverts the tedium of the fast by 
nspecting the multitude that pass to and fro. If his 
[mperial Majesty descry any lady, who may depart 
rom the strict regulations touching veils or mantles, an 
)fficer is despatched to "warn the lax fair one, that "our 
EfFendyV brow has been clouded at the exposure of her 
'air forehead. When men transgress, either by assuming 
i coat not suited to their rank, or by allowing their hair 
;o fall in shining curls over their shoulders, as is some- 
times practised by young fashionables, a regulation tailor 
is suggested as a cure for the former, and a barber, being: 
sent for, immediately places bounds on the meanderings 
H the latter. It must be observed, at the same time, 
that the Sultan merely objects to effeminate excess, as 
the whole of the army and navy, and almost all the 
rising generation, now wear their hair more or less in 
the Frank fashion*. 

In the short street connecting Divan Yolly with the 
above-mentioned square, is Taook (poultry) Bazary, the 
name generally given to the square itself. The poulter- 
ers have also markets near the Custom-House and in 
other quarters. The supply is abundant. It is imported 
in a lean state from the interior, and is not remarkable 
either for size or flavour. The Turks have no idea of 
roasting poultry according to our rules of art. They pay 
The army is not permitted to shave the head. 



120 POULTRY. 

little attention to quality or fat, and are apparently 
indifferent to age. When roasted, the animals are 
burned to a cinder, and when prepared in other ways are 
so much over-dressed as to fall to pieces on being sepa- 
rated with the fingers. The Bulgarian peasantry some- 
times bring in tolerably fat fowls. These are trussed in 
a most unseemly fashion, by tearing aside the hinder skin, 
ami exposing the yellow fat collected round the abdomen- 
The sight suffices to produce nausea. 

Fancy pigeons of inferior breeds, ducks, geese, and 
many turkeys, are also exposed for sale; but the latter arc 
generally driven from door to door in flocks, and house- 
holders sally forth and select their victims. Some 
•wealthy Turks arc great poultry fanciers — among others, 
Halil Pasha, who is celebrated for a breed of un-Pashalike 
fowls without tails. Poultry is cheap — fowls are sold 
for three to four piastres each; turkeys, eight to ten; 
geese, five to seven; ducks, four to six; and pigeons, 
seven the couple. 

The taookjee (poulterers), for the most part Bulgarians, 
were formcrlv exclusively Moslems, and venerated as 
their patron Korah, whom earth swallowed up for his 
rebellion. This was certainly not their motive for this 
selection; but he is supposed to have been a great 
breeder of poultry, and to have invented the mode of 
hatching chickens in ovens, which process increased the 
belief in his powers as a magician and alchymist. 
Poulterers, bird-catchers, pigeon-fanciers, makers of bows 
and arrows, and some other analogous trades, formed the 
twenty-fifth grand guild. The last-mentioned craft had 



BOW MAKERS. 121 

their shops at the south-east angle of Taook Bazary. 
No remnant of this trade now remains, and no vestige 
of this innocent and graceful sport is to be met with, 
save in the Nishan Tashy, on the different Ok Maidans, 
that bear testimony to the skill and strength of Sultans*. 
Bows and arrows are now and then met with in the 
Bezestan. They are of the ancient Tartar model, painted 
and neatly gilt. The late Sultan was pre-eminent for 
his powers as an archer. If we are to believe the marble 
records of his prowess, the general flight of his arrows 
exceeded one thousand yards; but during the last six 
years his sinews relaxed, and he abandoned the exer- 
cise, being unwilling to expose his decreasing strength. 
Though the present Sultan rides well, and sits his noble 
Arabs with grace and firmness, he is not skilful in manly 
exercises. He therefore rarely patronizes archery. 
During the last three years, his Imperial Majesty only 
twice diverted himself in this manner, and he then shot 
for height, not distance. The arrows were discharged 
perpendicularly, and fell within ten yards of his feet. 
The process appeared to be tame and uninteresting, nor 
could its object be clearly explained"}-. 

* Nishan Tashy, (see vignette, vol. ii., c. viii.) are seen on various 
eminences round the town. The most remarkable are upon the Ok 
Maidan. They are of marble, ornamented with inscriptions. One of 
these commences by saying : " The lord of the world, Sultan Mahmoud 
Khan, being himself the goal of universal attraction, did shoot an arrow 
from his own imperial bow to this spot, from a distance of 12274 havet, 
(paces)." A second column, hard by, records a shot fired at the distance 
of 1215 havet. 

-f- Sometimes Sultans were wont to shoot at marks. A Nishan Tashy, 
on the Ok Maidan, records that Sultan Mahmoud, standing at 115} 
paces distant, broke with his arrow a strong stone-pitcher, in lti33. 
VOL. III. G 



122 



Nil VZI F.RS. 




U , (llKA/lKH. ) I'll I kti WTTB r.ritNINT, CHARCOAL 
FOR IIKAT1M, .UAKIMK 



CHAPTER IV. 



BRAZIERS; MINERAL RICHES OF TIREEY: ENGRA- 
VERS; KINGS, SEALS, AND TALISMANS. 

A line of wooden sheds, facing the eastern wall of 
Eski Serai, now called Serasker Kapoossy, is tenanted 
by the corporation of kassanjylar (braziers), who vene- 
rate David as their patron. 

From manufacturing Janissaries 1 kettles, braziers were 
specially protected by that corps, and many of their 
stalls and workshops were surmounted by the emblems 
of their patrons' odas. Of these emblems, universal in 
former times, only one relic remains in the city. This 
consists of a wooden last or boot, nailed over the door of 



BRAZIERS. 123 

the alms-house kitchen, opposite to the eastern entrance 
to the Shahzadeh-mosque Court. This kitchen was 
under the protection of an oda, principally composed of 
shoe and boot-last makers. 

Various motives have been assigned for the origin of 
the reverence displayed by Janissaries for their kettles, 
which, as we shall show presently, did not commence 
with the early institution of the corps. It is pardonable 
to entertain difference of opinion as to the former, when 
grave authorities are at variance as to the latter. For 
instance, we find Robertson and others asserting that 
the Janissaries were established in 1362, that is, in the 
second year of Murad (Amurath) I.* ; whilst others, 
and among them the accurate d'Ohsson, affirm that they 
were first formed by Orkan, thirty-one years previously. 
According to the best Turkish authorities, Hadjy Bek- 
tash, founder of the Dervish sect bearing his name, died 
in 1357. If this be correct, it is evident that the Janis- 
saries must have been instituted by Orkan, and not by 
Murad; as it is universally admitted that the corps, 
when first enrolled, received their benediction from the 
pious Hadjy. 

During the first two hundred years of their existence, 
the Janissaries did not exceed from ten to fourteen 
thousand men. Successive Sultans, from Orkan to 
Selim I., were enabled to restrain them within the 
bounds of discipline; but their numbers, doubled by 
Suleiman the Great, were progressively tripled and 
quadrupled, until at length, in latter times, they 
averaged more than eighty thousand regular combatants. 
-In order to flatter the vanity of the corps, Sultans them- 

* Robertson, Charles V., vol. i,, and Mill's History of Mohani- 
medism. 

G 2 



1l4 janissaries. 

selves were inscribed on the rolls as privates of one of 
the cohorts in garrisons at Stambol, and invariably 
appeared in person at the Et Maidany barracks on the 
last day of each quarter. Mere they answered at evening 
roll-call to their simple names of Mohammed, Mustafa, 
&c, and received their three months 1 pay and allowance 
of cloth and candles ; which were forthwith distributed 
among the children of the oda, whose nickname among 
the people was "the bread-eaters*." 

It is difficult to ascertain the number of men that 
actuallv lost their lives in the capital and provinces, 
when the corps was overwhelmed and abolished. Con- 
temporaries, both Turks and Christians, are at variance 
on the subject. Some affirm that nine thousand men 
perished on the 25th and l?(>th of June and following 
days, by shot and sword, within the city, by decapita- 
tion and strangulation in the Uosphorus forts and on 
board the fleet, and by being burned to death in the 
conflagration of the barrack-, where some hundreds de- 
fended themselves with desperate valour. But the above 
number, according to other eye-witnesses, is much ex- 
aggerated, and they reduce the total of the victims to five 
thousand. This, with fifteen thousand banished after 
surrender, brines the garrison to twentv thousand, which 
is affirmed to have been its maximum in June, 1826. 
This calculation is the more worthy of credit, as Mah- 
moud had long discouraged recruiting, and, having in 
view the abolition of the corps by a coup cFciat, had 
adopted various precautions for diminishing the strength 
of the Stambol odas. 

According to tradition, the first kettles issued to the 

* The words Oda and Orta were synonymous, though strictly speak- 
ing, the first means a chamber, and the second a place or hearth. 



JANISSARY KETTLES. 125 

Janissaries were similar in form to those used by the 
Bektashy dervishes, and were presented to the different 
odas by Mohammed II., when he marched to attack 
Constantinople. Before that period, neither officers nor 
men received rations. They lived at free quarters, and 
fed themselves as they could. Wherever they went, at 
home or abroad, they regarded the land and all upon it 
as their own. Like the Delys, who pretended to trace 
their origin to Kaliph Omar, they entered towns and 
villages with the hostile shouts of " teressdur 11 (felon 
soil), and, suiting the action to the word, ravaged and 
plundered with impunity. 

Mohammed II., desirous to relieve the people from 
these intolerable vexations, established a kind of com- 
missariat. He appointed an officer of each oda to pro- 
cure supplies of bread, salt, rice and suet, and to dis- 
tribute daily rations. Thence the custom of swearing 
fidelity with the words, "etmek va fooz^ (bread and salt.) 

Kettles, in the proportion of one to twenty Janissaries, 
were furnished both in camp and quarters. These served 
for culinary purposes and washing linen. The lids formed 
a large dish, whence the whole mess helped themselves 
with the wooden spoons, carried in brass sockets, in 
front of their caps. 

* The daily ration issued to each man was two pounds of bread or 
flour, half an ounce of salt, three ounces of rice, and half an ounce of 
suet. These proportions have, in some measure, been adhered to in 
modern regulations. The daily allowance at present for each non-com- 
missioned and private is — bread, thirty-three ounces; meat, nine; suet, 
one; rice, three; salt, three-quarters; onions, one; other vegetables, 
one ounce. Thus the whole ration amounts to nearly three pounds' 
weight — a superabundant quantity. On Tuesdays and Fridays an 
extra allowance of niue ounces rice, and two ounces suet, is issued for 
pilaf. In addition to this, each private receives twenty piastres per 
month, clear of all deductions. 



126 JANISSARY KETTLE-'. 

Tn camp, the kettles were piled, :i> th.' tlrmns of 
infantry are now piled, in front of the SghaS Of tehor- 
hajv"s tent*. On the march they uviv earned by the 

recruits, who relieved each other every halt-hour. Hy 
degrees kettles, issued as essentia] articles of camp- 
equipage, were converted into symbols of military pride, 

in tin- satUS manner that the kettle-drums of cavalry 
ivjiitM tits are now held -acre 1 in Christian arm 

Indeed, it remains to be shown whether European de- 
votion to drums originated in Moslem kettl [nfidi 1 

ipeet Rmp kettles in Christian drums. Be this as it 
may, the 1"-- of kettles during or after battle, was 
regarded as a disgrace to the very hearth of the oda, and 
therefore the Janissaries fought in their defence, as it 
wave, pro arit ti f\ **. This was the more stringent, 
because the Bektaahy dervishes m ?cr tailed to bless and 
consecrate tho kettles ••!' odas previously t<> a campaign, 
in honour of the first modeL Thence mainly arose tho 
attachment of the cohorts to these ntessils. 

In addition to the small nies- kettles, each oda was 
furnished with a lanre regimental copper. This Mas 
carried on the march by four old soldiers, who were re- 
lieved in turn by all the veterans. In front marched tho 
tchaoosh bashy (sergeant-major), holding in his hand a 
long wooden ladle, the symbol of his office as kettle 
superintendent. To loss this kettle was considered the 
maximum of disgrace and misfortune; nor could it bo 
replaced until the stain was effaced by some most daring 
and exemplary exploit^. 

• Some odas were commanded by aghas, but the greater part by 
tchorbajy (literally soup-meu), the present title of the heads of Christian 
villages. 

•f One of our most favoured regiments of cavalry, unless I much err, 



JANISSARY KETTLES. 127 

In quarters this kettle was not moved, unless upon 
solemn occasions or in cases of premeditated revolt. 
To meet these kettles, and to neglect paying them and 
their bearers due respect, was dangerous for strangers. 
An example of this occurred during the embassy of 
Count Sebastiani. 

The 52nd oda being on its return from the Seraglio, 
preceded by its great kettle, filled with Friday pilaf, was 
encountered by a French officer in the temporary service 
of the Porte. This officer, seeing the tchaoosh bashy 
strutting in front, and brandishing his long wooden ladle, 
as continental drum-majors flourish their sticks, could 
not refrain from laughter. This cachinnation cost him 
dear, however, for the kettle-major first uttered a variety 
of unpleasant insinuations against the chastity of the 
Frenchman's mother and female relatives, and then dip- 
ping his spoon into the smoking pilaf, bedaubed the 
mirthful stranger from head to foot. Satisfied with this 
taste of Janissary liberality, the officer wisely retreated; 
but it was less easy for him to efface the stain than he 
had imagined. His name was Bouquier, which, being 
known to the wits of Stambol, was quickly converted 
into Bokya (the dirt-man). 

Janissaries did not limit their devotion to valorous 
defence of kettles in time of war. During peace these 
implements served for less patriotic purposes. After 
mid-day prayer on Fridays, Sultans invariably placed 
themselves in the kioshk, on the northern side of the 
second Seraglio court. The Janissaries on duty then 
ranged themselves under the opposite colonnade, and 

lost its kettle-drums, at or about the period of Dettingen, and remained 
without them until they were replaced, early in this century, at the 
expense of His Majesty George III. 



128 JANISSARY KETTLES. 

awaited their allowance of pilaff from tho contiguous 
kitchens in the hack court. 

The great kettles, brightly polished and carried by 
the oldest soldiers, then served as symbols of satisfaction 
or discontent. If, at the wonted signal for receiving the 
rice, the bearers remained in the ranks and turned their 
kettles upside down, it was an indubitable declaration of 
dissatisfaction. If, on the contrary, they hastened to 
the kitchens and returned with alacrity, it was indi- 
cative that all were well pleased. The commencement 
of this ceremony was always awaited with more or less 
anxiety by Sultan-, whose repose and perhaps existence 
depended upon the waywardness of these legions. 

In the first case, the azha-in-chief was forthwith com- 
manded to inspect the ranks, to inquire into complaints, 
and. if within moderation, to grant all demands. Most 
Sultan-, well aware of th<' dangerous implements they 
had to deal with, were disposed to adopt the maxim 
recommended by our great philosopher — namely, that 
"the surest way to prevent seditions, if the times do 
bear it, is to take away the matter of them. For, if 
there be fuel prepared, 'tis hard to tell whence the spark 
may come that shall set it on fire." 

When Sultans felt themselves equal to check insub- 
ordination by severe means, immediate and terrible 
chastisement fell upon malcontents. In most cases of 
sedition the pretexts were arrears of pay, short measure, 
or withholding of cloth distributed for uniforms, or, as- 
occurred frequently, a mixture of false coin in the aspers 
issued from the Mint. If these complaints were ex- 
aggerated, or if the Sultan were sufficiently powerful, a 
short silence ensued, and the agha and other chiefs re- 
mained stationary. Presently, however, the djellat 



JANISSARY KETTLES. 129 

bashy (chief headsman), whose official tower flanked 
Orta Kapoossy, made his appearance, and advanced in 
front of the Sultan's kioshk, escorted by his subordinates 
and a trusty body of bostanjys and baltajys. A signal 
was then given by the Sultan; the ringleaders and 
kettle-bearers were seized, and before many minutes 
their heads were piled in the niches outside the middle 
gate, and their bodies cast into the sea. 

The mode of inverting kettles as a signal of discon- 
tent was so significant, that no other notice was required 
to produce concession or punishment. Thus, when the 
sedition of 1826 broke out, Sultan Mahmoud was first 
apprised of the danger by hearing that several odas had 
assembled upon the At Mai'dany with their great kettles 
turned upside down. 

A history of the revolts of the Janissaries might fill 
more than one interesting volume, replete with exciting 
and romantic incidents. Osman III. in 1622, Mustafa 
I. in 1623, Ibrahim in 1 648, Achmet III. in 1730, 
Selim III. in 1807, Mustafa IV. in 1808, and other 
Sultans, were either murdered or dethroned through the 
agency of these troops, and Mohammed IV. only secured 
his head, in 1655, by making concessions, which filled 
his palace with mourning, covered him with humiliation, 
but did not save him from subsequent dethronement 
after thirty-eight years' reign. An outline of the sedition 
of 1655 may furnish a general idea of the proceedings of 
the Janissaries on these occasions. 

In the month of March of that year, nearly the whole 
garrison of Janissaries, then exceeding 18,000 men, 
showed daily symptoms of discontent. At length, having 
gained over artillery, bombardiers, and sipahis, they 
broke into open mutiny, refused to do duty, and de- 

g3 



130 REVOLT OF JANISSARIES. 

mantled the payment of all arrears*. Xot content with 
this, they insisted that the Sultan should grant them a 
public audience at Al.ii Kiodik, whilst they, fearing 
treachery, remained outside the Seraglio walls. 

These demands having been treated with contempt, 
even by their principal officer, the odaa assembled in 

front of Et Maidany barracks, and. haying inverted and 

piled their large kettles, they placed a sabre, a Loaf of 

bread, and a few ounces of salt, upon the uppermost of 
these utensils. The ringleaders then stepped forward, 
and, after invoking the name of the Almighty, swore by 
the Kooran that, if the Sultan should attempt to lay 
bands upon a ringle beard, they would cut off a head for 
every hair. One of the Bektashy dervishes, affilia 
with their corps, then advana d. and. spreading his 
hands over the kettle-, recited a prayer in which they all 
joined, and terminated with a g e ner a l "•Amen."" This 
being said, the mutine< re "union ami fraternity" 

by the Kooran; and a list of prescripts having been 
drawn np and read aloud, they simultaneously uttered 
the word Allah! three times, formed in close column, 
and marched to At Maidany. preceded by their inverted 
kettles. 

Having waited some time at this spot, and not finding 
the Grand Vizir or other state officers in readiness to 
meet them, they shouldered their kettles, and, with loud 
shouts of anger and defiance, hastened through the nar- 
row street leading from Aya Sofia to Alai Kioshk"f*. 
\V hen the heads of the column reached this spot, the 

* The three corps last mentioned were unconnected with and always 
jealous of the privileges granted to the Janissaries. They were looked 
upon as a counterpoise to the odas. 

•f Procession Kioshk is immediately opposite to "the Porte." 



REVOLT OF JANISSARIES. 131 

Grand Vizir and Bostanjy Bashy, with their immediate 
subordinates, appeared at one of the side windows 
of the kioskh, and the former attempted to pacify the 
malcontents. His efforts were useless. In reply to 
his words the whole body exclaimed, " We will not eat 
your dirt! Who are you, that we should be your laugh- 
ing-stock! Awa} r , you dog — son of a dog! We defile 
your mother ! We must see your master, our lord the 
Sultan, or it will be the worse for him. 11 

At length, the blinds of the centre window were 
thrown back, and the Sultan appeared, seated upon an 
elevated chair, surrounded by his ministers and court. 
Thereupon the delegates of the different odas advanced 
to the front of their comrades, and, still maintaining some 
respect for ordinary rules, drew up in line, bowed, and 
remained silent. Upon this the vizir again advanced, 
and demanded the cause of this disloyal assembly. 

In an instant, one of the delegates, a private soldier, 
son of a tanner, stepped forward, and having rapidly 
made his obeisance, exclaimed, " May the Sultan live! 
may his sorrows be ours and his joys his own! may 
God's benediction be his lamp! 11 

The surrounding multitude having bowed their heads 
at these words, and uttered a loud "Amen! 11 the soldier 
continued thus: — "Our lord is ignorant of facts. Let 
him hear the truth! His provinces are ruined. The 
city is at the mercy of vile eunuchs, and the suburbs 
overrun by robbers. We soldiers receive neither cloth 
nor just pay. We are defrauded of half our dues by 
means of false coin. The citizens are plundered. Good 
men are banished or put to death, and bad men are 
favoured and raised to power. 11 

In short, the delegate set forth so many grievances 



132 REVOLT OF JANISSARIES. 

that the Sultan was utterly confounded and unable to 
reply. Presently, however, he turned to the Sheikh 
Islam, who stood at his elbow, and was told by him that 
the delegates not only uttered falsehoods and calumn 

but that it was contrary to all precedent for Sultans to 
listen to the vociferations of mutineers Whereupon 

Mohammed raised hi^ voice, and indignantly declar- 
ed that the deputies wire •• liars, calumniators, and 
rebels. 11 

The whole body of malcontents, who saw that the 
Sultan was prompted by the head of the law, instantly 
replied by Bhouts of, "Away with tin- Mufty ! He who 
made can unmake and chastise*! Let him be dis- 
missed and then suffer! He lies! lie crams the 
Sultan's ears with lilth !"" The air then resounded with 
echoes of "bravo !"' and " well spoken." 

Silence having at length been obtained, the delegate 
above mentioned took from his bosom a long scroll, 
read aloud the names of some twenty public function- 
aries, whom he declared to be traitors to the Sultan and 
the land, and added that nothing would satisfy the odas 
but the death of these men. This bold and unexpected 
announcement produced such effect upon Mohammed 
that he shed tears, and humbly implored the Janissaries 
to spare his friends and favourites. The reply was a 

* The persons of Muftis were held sacred — so that, in the event of 
capital punishment, it was customary to deprive them of office previously 
to execution. But Sultans evinced extreme repugnance to these acts, 
and examples of violence were rare. A large stone mortar or receiver 
is shown in the second or middle court of the Seraglio, in which it is said 
by travellers, on the faith of ignorant or roguish guides, that Oolemas 
were pounded to death. It appears, however, that this mortar was used 
by the cooks and soldiers for no other purpose than to bruise grain, a 
practice frequently witnessed in other parts of the city. 



REVOLT OF JANISSARIES. 133 

deafening " No ! by our beards and souls. No ! it shall 
be as we say." 

Fearful lest resistance should entail upon his own 
head the fate of his immediate predecessor, Sultan 
Mohammed now rose and exclaimed, " Children ! the 
Sultan's heart and thoughts are alone occupied with the 
welfare and happiness of all. He will not protect bad 
men, who wrong his subjects and oppress his faithful 
odas. Withdraw quietly, therefore, and I swear by the 
Kooran, by my beard, and by the grave of my father, 
that the designated culprits shall be delivered into your 
hands, dead or alive." This address was received with 
shouts of " Tchok yasha ! bin yasha L" (many years ! a 
thousand years to you !") — a shout with which the 
modern army now greets the monarch, when he inspects 
or passes their ranks on days of ceremony. 

As an earnest of his sincerity, Mohammed whispered 
a few words to the Bostanjy Bashy, who stood at his 
back, and in less than ten minutes the strangled bodies 
of the Kizlar and Kapou Aghassy (chiefs of black and 
white Aghas) were cast headlong into the street, from 
the window south of the centre apartment. This ter- 
rible proof of the Sultan's " good faith" was received 
with deafening marks of approbation by the mutineers, 
who, after consulting awhile, declared that they were 
ready to obey the Padishah's commands and to retire ; 
but swearing that they would return next day and set 
fire to the city unless the remaining proscripts were 
delivered to them. Then, seizing the two bodies, thev 
dragged them to the At Maidany, and hung them to one 
of the trees that formerly stood before the outer wall 
of the Ahmedya Mosque. 

Mohammed IV. was true to his promise. Within 



1 3 I BRAZIERS. 

twenty-four hours the Mufty. Grand Vizir, and Captain 
Pasha, were disgraced and banished. The Master, of 
the Horse, Sword- Bearer. Mini.-ter of Finance, Grand 
Master of Ceremonies, Agha of Janissaries, Director- 
General of Customs, and many other eminent persona} 
were seized, strangled, and their bodies delivered to tho 
odas. When the corpses were cast into the street, the 
Janissaries rushed forward and wreaked their fury upon 
them, until night closed over the fearful tragedy, and 
they retired to their barraeks. 

Among other victims was the wife of the Director- 
General of Customs, daughter of the Sheikh Islam, a 
lady of eminent beauty and talents, and possessing great 
political inlluence. Sha was known to be an inveterate 
enemy of the Janissaries, and to have drawn up a plan for 
their destruction. Her body, for decency's Bake, was thrust 
into a sack, and dragged to the At Maidany, where it 
was kung between the corpses of the white and black 
Aghas. 

Having received their arrears and satisfied their 
vengeance, the whole of the odas marched in grand 
uniform and procession on tho following Friday to tho 
Seraglio, and, to the extreme joy of Mohammed, eagerly 
outstretched their large kettles to receive the proffered 
pilaf. This they devoured at once, uttering a thousand 
benedictions upon the Sultan's head. Thus terminated 
the sedition of 1655. 

Among the most remarkable articles sold by braziers 
are ibriks (ewers) and layean (basins), either of brass or 
block tin. The former are of graceful form, holding two 
or more quarts*. They are principally employed for 
purposes of ordinary ablution, especially before and after 

• See vignette, vol. i., c. viii. 



BRAZIERS. 135 

meals. A small ewer of glazed or painted potter's earth, 
with a long and straight spout, is generally employed 
for devotional purposes by the middling classes. But 
almost all persons, who have slaves and servants at hand, 
prefer metal ewers and basins. 

Some of these, made of brass gilt, engraved with sen- 
tences from the Kooran or arabesques, are met with in 
the Jewel Bezestan, and when perfect, are sold for three 
or four hundred piastres. They are mostly antique, at 
all events, of the last century. These articles of luxury 
are now rarely manufactured. The mode of performing 
ordinary ablution has been already explained. We 
shall treat the subject in its different classifications, 
when we reach a bath. 

In the Sultan's household, and in those of great 
pashas, the ibriktar aghassy is an officer of distinction, 
or a superior attendant. He is not only charged with 
the department of ablutions, not including the bath, but 
when water is required for drinking, he and the servants 
under his orders present the cup or glass, and are 
responsible that there shall be no lack of the pure 
element, drawn from the peculiar spring preferred by his 
master. The tubs or jars containing water for the 
Sultan are sealed at the spring with the ibriktar 
aghassy's signet, which is removed by him as occasion 
may require. 

It has been stated that the tables upon which Turkish 
dinners are served are not covered with cloths. The 
siny (tray), which serves in lieu of cloth, is of block tin 
or sheet-brass, nailed upon a circular frame of wood, 
raised in the centre like a shield, and extending over 
the edge of the table. These trays are of different sizes, 
so that the number of guests may be increased by 



136" BRAZIERS. 

means of a larger circumference. Siny are kept clean 
and bright-polished, and as Turks, though eating with 
their fingers, rarely spill gravy or drop crumbs, the trays 
remain as bright at the end as at the commencement of 
repasts. 

The manufacturers of siny venerate the Queen of 
Sheba as their patroness. Tradition has it that this 
celebrated beauty, when upon her road to meet Solomon, 
was accustomed to employ for this purpose a large 
inverted salver of gold on which the dishes were placed 
in succession. This invention served also for another 
object. Being brilliantly burnished they produced the 
reflective effects of mirrors, and thus the fair Queen was 
enabled to gratify simultaneously her vanity and her 
hunger. Although glass mirrors appear from this to 
have been unknown to Balkis, who according to Pocoeke 
was twenty-second Queen of Yemen, plate-glass Mas 
already in use at the court of Solomon. As a proof of 
this I will here introduce a note which I annexed to 
another work*, whereby it is shown upon the authority 
of the Arabian author JallaTuddin, that transparent 
glass was employed in profusion at the period in question. 

Balkis, having accepted an invitation to Solomon's 
Court, was received by the monarch, seated upon a 
throne entirely composed of precious stones, elevated at 
the extremity of a vast hall, built of gold and silver 
bricks. The floor of this gorgeous apartment was made 
of transparent glass, placed over a stream of running 
water, filled with living fish. The object of this singular 
flooring was to impress Balkis with an idea that she was 
about to step into real water, and thus to induce her to 
exhibit her ankles; for Solomon, who was curious in 

" Cashmere Shawl, vol. i., p. 288. 



BRAZIERS. 137 

these matters, had heard that her majesty*^ nether limbs 

were covered with hair, "like unto those of a she-ass."" 

The stratagem succeeded. Balkis, not aware of the 

existence of glass, no sooner approached the entrance, 

than, supposing she must plunge into water, she lifted up 

her robe. This natural precaution proved that the 

report was libellous only from being true. Solomon, 

though mightily struck with the beauty of her face, was 

grievously disgusted at the disclosure of her shaggy heels, 

and could not be brought to marry her. However, some 

of the senii in his suite forthwith came to his assist- 
ed 

ance, and literally smoothed all difficulties; they forth- 
with composed a powerful depilatory paste, which, having 
been applied without loss of time, relieved the lovely 
Queen from this unsightly appendage, "so that her feet 
became fair and downy as the cheeks of a new-born 
infant. 11 

Mangals, the only substitute for fire-places, are the 
next articles which vie in utility with siny. They are 
of copper or brass, brightly polished, and generally of 
the shape delineated in our vignette. Others are of 
oblong form, with rings at the extremities, and elevated 
on four claws. The latter are usually placed upon a 
plateau of the same metal, as a protection against fire. 
An earthen or metal receiver occupies the hollow in the 
centre. This is filled with kumer (charcoal), from 
which the gas has been extracted by previous ignition in 
the open air; so that when the mangal is brought into 
the apartment, all deleterious vapours are expended, and 
no risk ensues from closed doors or windows. 

In ordinary houses, the pan holding the charcoal is 
placed at the street door, and the wind quickly reduces 
the charcoal to a proper state of ignition; but in great 



[38 CIIAIU'OAL. 

mansions an arched recess or oven is constructed in tho 
court-yard, where a large quantity of charcoal is con- 
stantly kc)>t in b burning state, n m to be ready when 
demanded. One or more aiva-s (Armenian or Greek 
servants) have charge of this department. 

The foe] is prepared in the woods upon the COSSt of 
the Black Sea, and in those of Silivria near the' l'ropontis. 
It is brought to town in .-mall Graft, Of upon camel's 

hacks, and eoatfl about tenpence the e\\t. wholesale. 

Strings of camels, each animal laden with tour 0Wt., may 
be constantly seen in the outer court of Sultan Moham- 
med's Mosque, and in the streets of Pera. These 
patient animals, whose ninanj movements orei the 

slippery pavement in wet weather indicate pain and 
embarrassment, convey charcoal from the woods of 
Belgrade, outside the water districts, and from those of 
Roomelis within a range of twenty to thirty miles. 

kumurjee are fain to admit that Adam was the first 
to employ lire, and that he is conseojBjently entitled to 
great r e sp e ct, hut they, nevertheless, worship as their 
patron a certain Arab of Shaeer, named liaroon, who 
was purveyor of charcoal to the Prophet. 

The trade ha- it- magazines at Tophaua and in the 
vicinity of Odoon Tchar-hy. Firewood stores are upon 
the beach at the former place, behind Yally* Kioahk, at 
JVarly KapoossY, and within the harbour near the Fanar. 
Wood is exclusively used for culinary purposes and for 
heating baths, so that charcoal mangals are the only 
medium for warming apartments. Sometimes they are 
placed uncovered in the centre of rooms, but more 
frequently beneath tandoor. 

* Von Hammer derives this word from 7re piakos. The store at Yally 
Kioshk is reserved for the Seraglio. 



TANDOORS. 139 

The latter are frames of wood, like a table without its 
horizontal planks. The manga!, with the charcoal 
reduced to ashes, is deposited underneath. The frame is 
then covered with one or more blankets, or quilted 
coverlets, and sometimes with costly shawls or rich 
embroidered cloths. The family, seated on the floor, 
supported by cushions, or upon divans, assemble round 
this frame, and thrusting half their persons underneath, 
draw up the coverlets over their chests and chins. 
Turkish, Armenian, Greek, and Perote ladies will thus 
sit in listless idleness during many hours. 

In Turkish houses and in those of the so-called 
"heretic " Armenians, where there is no admixture of 
the sexes, and where ancient purity of morals is retained, 
these tandoors have no other disadvantage than those of 
encouraging drowsy waste of time, and perhaps causing 
maladies, resulting from impure and concentrated heat. 
But with Greeks, Perotes, and many "Latin" Arme- 
nians*, who are "progressing in civilization, 1 '' the case is 
different. The dissoluteness of the majority of these 
three races is proverbial. Scandalous stories of the im- 
proper use to which tandoors are converted are current 
in every direction. Some no doubt are the offspring of 
malevolence, but enough are founded on fact to confirm 
the appositeness of the old Italian proverb. 

Chi vuol fare sua rovina, 
Prende moglie Levantina. 

Lest, however, I should be accused of unjustly and 
wilfully detracting from the innocence of tandoors and 
the virtues of Perote ladies, I will quote a passage from 

* The Catholic, or as they style themselves Latin Armenians, now 
designate the Schismatic Armenians as heretics. 



140 TANDOORS. 

Von Hammer; and certainly no man is better qualified, 
from experience, to judge of these and other similar sub- 
jects, than the erudite and laborious author of " Constan- 
tinopolis and der Bosporus/ 1 After describing the 
deleterious effects of tandoors upon the health and com- 
plexion of Perote ladies, the learned Austrian proceeds 
thus: 

" But, if they employed fire-places or stoves, how could 
they repose in heavenly slothfnlness, recumbent as in 
their beds? How could they converse with bands and 
feet, and conveniently exchange love-letters, which, 
through the medium of a skilful Perote invention, they 
hide in their dippers Of Bhoea, and then, stretching out 
their feet, convey these tinder missives into the eager 
bands of those seated opposite! According to Eastern 
tradition, grounded on the Kooran, the deluge gushed 
from a tannoor (fire-pot), near the spot where Kufa 
now stands, and streamed irresistibly forth until the 
universe was submerged. There is a remarkable coinci- 
dence between this and the Perote tandoors, whence 
stream forth many shameless and immoral practices that 
inundate the society of Pera." 

( cal is employed by Turks solely for steam and manu- 
facturing purposes. Large consignments arc imported 
from England, at an average of twenty-four shillings the 
ton. Coal from Turkish mines is inferior to the English 
mineral, and that from the Danube is rarely employed 
unless by steam vessels plying upon that river. Turkey, 
nevertheless, possesses abundant coal-fields. Of these, the 
most valuable are at Heraclea, in the vicinity of Trebi- 
zonde. These beds, if judiciously worked, might be con- 
verted into sources of great wealth aud utility. 

An effort was made, in 1841, by agents of an English 



COAL AND COLLIERIES. 141 

company, to obtain a grant of these mines, which they 
proposed to work advantageously for the Porte, and, of 
course, favourably for themselves. With a view of 
ascertaining the capabilities and extent of the coal-fields, 
the vicinity of Heraclea was visited by Mr. Anderson, 
one of the enterprising directors of the O. & P. S. N. 
Company; by Mr. Granville Withers, an eminent prac- 
tical engineer and forge proprietor in Belgium*; by 
Colonel Williams, R.A.; Dr. Davy, and Mr. E. Pisani, 
second dragoman to the embassy. It resulted from this 
investigation, carried out under Lord Ponsonby's aus- 
pices, — 1, That the coal beds were of vast extent and 
diversified qualities. 2, That the produce of existing 
mines might be quadrupled, if properly worked. And 
S, That if a grant could be obtained for a fixed period, 
say thirty years, Turkey would thereby establish a con- 
stant source of revenue and prosperity. By a pro rata 
duty on production, and by the gradual formation of a 
good school of practical engineers and miners, she might 
eventually liberate herself from all dependence in these 
matters upon other states. 

The incontestible advantages set forth in the reports of 
the commission were carefully translated and communi- 
cated to the Porte. But all attempts to carry out the ne- 
gotiation failed. On the one hand, Austria, always jealous 
of establishments calculated to compete with her Danu- 
bian productions, and to deprive her of the monopoly of 
the mining departments in Turkey, exerted occult means 
to counteract the proposal. Russia, on the other hand, 
fearful that an abundant supply of good coal would 

* Mr. G. Withers's examination before a committee of the House of 
Commons on subjects of practical industry rendered his name remark- 
able at the period. 



142 MINERAL RICHES. 

increase Turkish strain facilities in the Black Sea and 
Archipelago, united bar efforts with those of Austria, and 
soon succeeded in persuading Kiza Pasha, and oilier 
influential Turks shaaug the monopoly, that the sole 
object of the Englishmen was to ruin the shareholders, 
to impoverish tin- government, and to enrieh themselves. 
These fine ooal-fieWa continue, therefore, to be worked 
in the mosi oegligent manner, and are comparatively 
unproductive. Other coal strata of an inferior quality, 

equally ill-managed, are met with near RedostO. Bedl 
of this mineral c\Ut DO doubt in many other parts; but, 
under existing eiroumstanees, there appears uo prospect 
of their being discovered, or. if discovered, of their being 
advantageously worked. 

The mineral riches of the Ottoman empire may he 
trded as inexhaustible. Capital, ancounagement, and 
a cessation of foreign intrigues, are alone wanting to ren- 
der them eminently useful. At present, the only well 
worked mines are those of the Tokat districts, under the 
direction of Austrian miners, employed in virtue of a 
contract with the Vienna cabinet. The quantity of cop- 
per, iron, calamine, fcee, there and elsewhere, is unbounded, 
and of the finest quality. Copper is used with lavish 
profusion in all directions. The puns and ornaments of 
the fleet are all of fine brass, and copper utensils aro 
extraordinarily cheap. Loads of this metal are found in 
many directions near the city, among others on the 
declivities north of the Valley of Roses*. But the 
workmen content themselves with turning up the surface 
strata, and make no attempt to push their researches 
lower down. 

* A specimen submitted to Dr. Buckland was pronounced by him to 
be "sulphuret of copper blended with sulphuret of iron." 



MANGALS. 143 

Considerable dissidence of opinion exists as to the ori- 
ginal invention of mangals. Some pious braziers, who 
are supported by a few sectarian charcoal-burners, affirm 
that Nimrod is entitled to this honour, inasmuch as it 
was he who caused an enormous vessel of molten brass 
to be made, and then filled with burning charcoal, in 
order that he and his court might warm themselves 
during the building of Babel. Through the aid of a 
trifling anachronism, they likewise add that Nimrod, 
thwarted in his intentions, determined to revenge him- 
self upon Abraham, who was bound and about to be cast 
upon the burning pile, when the Lord caused the brass 
to melt. The flaming metal, streaming towards the spot 
where sat the mighty hunter, chased him and his at- 
tendants from the spot, and Abraham, being thus rescued, 
departed into Egypt. 

Other mangal-makers treat this tradition as fabulous, 
and declare that the first employer of these articles was 
the old woman of Kufa, from whose oven the deluge is 
said to have issued. But, not being disposed to allow 
merit to an old woman whose name is coupled with 
such terrible evidence of Almighty wrath, they ascribe 
the first use to Noah, who, when the rains had ceased, 
and the waters were dried up from the earth, went forth 
and made a pilgrimage to Kufa, where he found the 
mangal or tannoor whence the deluge proceeded, and, 
preserving it carefully, handed it down as a model to 
posterity*. 

* It need scarcely be observed that these are popular traditions, and, 
if we look into those of Germany and other parts of Europe among simi- 
lar classes, they will be found ecpually trivial. The only difference is that 
Mohammedans found theirs on holy writ, whilst Christians in most cases 
connect theirs with pagan mythology. 



1 i i LOCKSMITHS. 

Behind the shops occupied by the brasiers, and imme- 
diately lacing the north-western entrance to Sultan 
Bajazet'fl mosque, is a mage of wooden sheds, princi- 
pally tenanted by kilitjee (locksmiths, or rather look- 

sellers). These venerable worthies, for the most part 
ex-Janissaries or Bostanjys, deal in ironmongery and 
cutlery. Their small shops are stored with pistol ram- 
rods of painted wood, with ivory hammers, heart-shaped 
cases, ornamented with coloured glass, for bullet rags, 
powder flasks of bom and leather, flints, coarse scissors, 
knives, padlocks, buekles, small fire-tongs, and many 
other articles required for domestic purposes, and for 
completing tire-arms. 

They are not permitted, however, to sell gunpowder. 
By a prudent regulation, this article, BO dangerous in a 
city constructed of wood, and filled as it were with lighted 
pipes, is forbidden to be sold within the walls. The 
dealers are restricted to certain Boots in the Buburbs of 
Kvoub and its vicinity. Private powder manufactories 
are likewise forbidden. That of the Government is mid- 
way between the Silivry gate and St. Stefano, at a 
village called < teoonlar (long), contiguous to the sea. 
It is under the direction of a Pasha, styled Barut Khana 
Eminy, and was established by Selim III. The produce 
is coarse and principally for military purposes; but a 
somewhat finer quality is made for private consumption. 
It was not until four or five manufactories, successively 
erected in the city, had blown up, that the Porte found 
it prudent to remove all magazines from within the 
walls. Of these magazines several are now seen in the 
vicinity, well-guarded and bomb-proof. One of the 
most spacious is in the sheltered valley contiguous to 
the picturesque mosque of Piali Pasha. 



PIGEONS. 145 

The space between the shops of the kilitjee and the 
Mosque is partly occupied by itinerant miskjees (per- 
fumers), who expose their wares on low tables. These 
consist of cornelian amulets, gum-mastic, tooth-roots 
from Yemen, musk, inferior rose-oil, and other articles 
of the trade, among which are rosaries, made from the 
venerated earth collected by pilgrims in the valleys of 
Mina and Mecca. Some dealers, principally Arabs, 
pay a trifle to the guardians of the Mosque for per- 
mission to expose their wares within the court. 

This beautifid portion of the edifice loses nothing of 
its picturesque originality by the addition of these 
crabbed-looking perfumers, or by the cooing and agita- 
tion of the innumerable pigeons, that press down the 
cypress and vine branches, or perch upon every salient 
beam and cornice. These birds, nevertheless, inundate 
the colonnades with filth, and detract, in some measure, 
from the repose and solemnity of the building. They 
are under the care of a porter, who is allowed a small 
sum by the wakoof for their maintenance. When he 
opens the chest containing millet-seed, they press around 
in countless numbers, and literally walk on each others" 
backs to attain their food. They are supposed to be 
sacred ; but, in order to diminish excessive increase, the 
porter is permitted to dispose of young birds, and the 
priests, when in want of a kabab or stew, make no 
scruple to invade their nests. Certainly the court of 
Sultan Bajazet's Mosque is the noblest pigeon-house in 
the universe. 

The art of training carrier-pigeons* is not unknown to 

* It is mentioned in the "Arabian Nights" that Haroon Al Raschid 
made known his severe orders against the family of Ganem by means 
of carrier-pigeons. 

VOL. III. H 



14G PIGBONS. 

Orientals. Tlic practice, which may he traced to the 
Ark of Noah, bo beautifully described in Genesis, is 
continued at Constantinople. Persona going upon pil- 
grimage, or making journeys inland, sometimes employ 
these birds to carry hack accounts of their health or 
process during the first days. The practice was for- 
merly much in vogue with the Arahs and Saracens for 
political and warlike purposes*. 

The first inventor of communications by means of 
these airy travellers is said to have been a native of 
Bagdad, who trained pigeons for the Abaaside Kaliph, 
Yezid III., in order that he might swiftly corre- 
spond, when absent, with a favourite slave, named 
Djebada, of whom he was tenderly enamoured. Tlio 
devotion of this prince to his lovely captive was carried 
to most romantic and fatal extremes. Tho plagne 
chancing to break out in Bagdad, this lady was among 
its victims. No sooner did the dread apparition of the 
black don arise before the unfortunate rirL and no 
sooner did the fatal tumours, indicative of the malady, 
appear upon her person, than the devoted Yezid clasped 
her to his heart. Then, waiting upon her as a watchful 
nurse, he remained at her side until the Angel of Death 
struck the last blow. After closing her eyes with his 
own hands, he cast himself beside the body, and con- 
tinued three days in this state, refusing food and con- 
solation. At length his vizirs and courtiers, employing 

* An extraordinary instance of the sagacity and powers of these inter- 
esting birds was exhibited in Belgium, in August, 1843. A certain 
number of pigeons were dispatched from Herve, a town half-way between 
Liege and Aix la Chapelle, to Turin, where they were let loose. Two of 
these birds returned to Herve, as certified legally, in fifty-three hours, 
and five others made their appearance in the course of two more days, 
having, as it is needless to add, traversed the Alpine barriers on their 
route. 






SEAL ENGRAVERS. 147 

respectful force, tore him from the miserable remains, 
which were committed to earth with regal pomp. 

Being an advocate for the maintenance of quarantines, 
upon a modified and judicious system, and thence a 
participator in the doctrines of contagionists, I am not 
loth to express satisfaction at the corroborative results of 
the Kaliplis violent tenderness. From the bed of his 
favourite's rest, Yezid was removed to his own, where 
he died, as the poets of Arabia affirm, of a broken 
heart; but, in fact, he had taken the infection, and 
followed Djebada to the tomb on the ninth day. 

The contiguous space, fronting the north-eastern gate 
of Sultan Bajazet, is tenanted by spoon and comb-sellers, 
a branch of trade already described. Their shops, stored 
with every possible production of the craft, are neatly 
and symmetrically arranged; and the dealers, tranquilly 
seated beneath the curtained opening that connects the 
front with the back apartment, have the appearance of 
automata, encompassed by fantastically carved frames. 
Their stalls cluster round the principal entrance to 
Hakaklar tcharsshy, occupied on one side, as the name 
indicates, by engravers*. 

This trade is among the most respectable and interest- 
ing in the city. Its bazar is visited by all strangers, 
and few depart without purchasing some specimen of the 
modern or ancient skill of oriental engravers, either in 
the shape of moohur (seals) or telissm (talismans). All 
members of this guild are Moslems, and men of 
respectability and tolerable education. They are for 
the most part conversant with the "three languages^." 

* This bazar is marked on the plan, and the gate leading 
to it, E. 

+ Arabic, Persian, and Turkish. 

n 2 



148 SEAL ENGRAVERS. 

One or two arc able to decipher the Kufic character, the 
mystical sentences often found upon old seals, and tho 
engraved bosses affixed to Dervishes 1 girdles*. 

Youths destined for this trade generally receive a pre- 
paratory education at the mckteb (elementary schools) 
and dar ul kirajet (reeding houses), at which latter 
they are taught to read the Kooran in its original purity. 
They take lessons also from the beet calligmphers of the 
day, and arc apprenticed fox seven years to master- 
engravers. At the expiration of their apprenticeship, 
they work at fixed wages, until the}' arc enabled to pur- 
chase the good-will of a simp, and are admitted master 
members of the corporation, whiefa is limited to fifty. 

Tchirak (apprentices) to this and other trades are 
not bound by written contract to one person for the 
whole seven years. They may serve under different 
masters, provided they obtain certificates of good con- 
duct, and eventually completo the required period of 
noviciate. In order to advance from apprentice to com- 
panion and master, certificates of capability and morality 
arc also required. These are issued, after examination, 
bv the kihava and syndics. 

The engravers' corporation consists of oosta (masters), 
kalfa (journeymen), and tchirak (apprentices), which 
latter are paid from thirty paras to four or more piastres 
per day. according to their progress, but are neither fed 
nor lodged. The affairs of the guild arc regulated by a 

* One of these engravings of ancient date, in my possession, is done upon 
purple glass, and so romantically enthusiastic, as to resemble the lament 
of a lover to his mistress, rather than a pious invocation to the Prophet. 
It runs thus: " Day and night my soul thirsts for thee, O lamp of exist- 
ence. My eyes are dimmed with tears for thy departure, my heart pants 
to behold thee. Oh, when will my darkness be converted into splendour, 
when, when shall I rejoin thee ! " 



SEAL ENGRAVERS. 149 

kihaya and his vekil, and by the ait bashy (foremen). 
Shops are liable to be minutely searched by the iktisab 
naziry (police- inspector's) agents, who see that pro- 
prietors do not engrave copper-plates for forged notes, 
moulds for false coin, or other forbidden articles — such 
for example as the Sultan's touhra (cipher), which 
cannot be imitated on stone or metal, lest it should be 
used for fraudulent purposes. Indeed, so much severity 
is exercised in respect to signet-rings of all classes, that 
the trade are forbidden to engrave two seals exactly 
similar for the same person. 

Until the introduction of this regulation in the time 
of Selim I., it often occurred that seals were given by 
Pashas to favourites, who employed them for extortional 
purposes in the provinces. Moreover, when a seal is 
lost, the owner by altering the inscription is enabled to 
detect forgeries, a precaution necessary, as the inked 
impressions of seals constantly stand in lieu of signature. 
The alterations consist in the addition of a flower; in 
the change of the ornament encircling the inscription; 
or in the date; which latter, as is the case with all 
numerals, runs from left to right, and not inversely, as 
occurs with all other characters. 

Although the use of signet rings is coeval with the 
earliest epochs, and recorded in various Arabic authors, 
and although Moslems ascribe divers inventions to ante- 
diluvian patriarchs and prophets, the Stambol engravers 
do not carry the history of their art further back than 
the time of the Prophet. Thus, the engravers of signet 
rings on stone attribute the first invention to Kaliph 
Osman, and venerate Mohammed ul Hidjazy, an Arab 
of Yemen, as the first master. He it was, they affirm, 
who engraved signets for Osman and Ali, which merely 



150 SIGNET RINGS. 

bore their names encircled by the words ''Render A1P 
(servant of God). These rinirs were of blood-stone set 
in silver. 

The signet ring of the Prophet, worn upon the little 
finger of the right hand, was of massive silver, and con- 
tained merely the word.s ,- Mohammed Kassool T'llah." 1 
It descended with the Kaliphat to Abou Bekr, Omar, 
and Osman, but was lost by the latter, as some say, in the 
well of Zemzem, at Mecca, and. according to others, as 
he was pawing the Tigris, at Mossoul, prior to the con- 
quest of Mesopotamia and Armenia. This accident, no 
matter where it occurred, was declared by astrologers to 
be the forerunner of great misfortunes to Osman and to 
Islam. In fact, he was assassinated within three years 
(a. n. 654), and the already mighty empire of the Kaliphs 
became a prey to the most Bangninary civil wars. 

The stones commonly employed by orthodox Mussel- 
mans for signet rings are bloodstone, agate, white and red 
cornelian, and chalcedony. Silver is almost invariably 
used for setting. All other metals, whether base or pure, 
are condemned by the Prophet's oral precepts and the 
Hadiss. Mohammed, happening one day to meet a man 
with a brass ring upon his finger, exclaimed, " That ring 
smells of idolatry." Upon another occasion, perceiving 
one of his followers with an iron ring, he cried out, 
" That is emblematic of souls condemned to eternal 
flames/ 1 On a third occasion, "seeing a person approach 
with a gold ring, he cast upon him a terrible frown, and, 
turning upon his heel, spat as if he had encountered a dog 
or an infidel* 11 . 

It is not customary for persons of distinction to wear 
seal-rings upon their fingers. Grand dignitaries employ 

• D'Ohssou, Tableau General. 



SIGNET RINGS. 



151 



a confidential moohurdar (seal-bearer), who carries the 
signet in a small bag, placed in a breast pocket. When 
required, he presents the signet, ready inked for the 
stamp, or clean for impressing the soft wax commonly 
employed for sealing. Those who have no seal-bearers 
carry their signet in their own breast pocket, or suspended 
from the neck by a cord. The signet, when lightly 
rubbed with unctuous Turkish ink, and pressed upon the 
paper slightly moistened, makes an impression which 
often stands in lieu of signature. But, for documents of 
importance, both stamp and signature are requisite. 
This custom does not differ from our own practice of 
affixing our " hands and seals 11 to deeds. It is needless, 
perhaps, to add that coats of arms and heraldic dis- 
tinctions are unknown. The name on the signet stands 
in lieu of armorial bearings. 




152 SIGNET RINGS. 

Sometimes these seals merely contain the name, either 
preceded or encircled by the worda ,c Abd"uilah." or 
"Bender Ali"~ (samuit of (iod), or by the "Bcsin 'illah" 
(in (iod's name). Sometimes, as is the case with dervish 
sheikhs oi' great sanctity, the name is OOW ptonaod into a 
touhra (monogram), somewhat similar to that of the 
Sultan, of which latter the preceding ifl I -pecimen. 

At other times, the pv died sbjed is employed, 

whereby the letters of the name are represented by 
figures. Thus, 1 — 7 — M) — t, stand For Ahmed, or Ach- 
met. of which the numeral letters are Alif or A, 1 — 11a 
or H, 7— Mim or M, 40— and Dal or D, 1*. 

" Various writers, among others, Von Hammer, fc»T8 repea ted a 
popular tradition, aeroHing to which < in.-li.-m tow< ra were so 

oooatrud at the name of their found r, Mohai 

II. One English author rta that she clearly distinguished the 

forms aiul eurrea of the requin d I tbout questioning tin- 

fair traveller's know! Lrabic or Turkish, I am bound that 

I examined thi • from twenty different points with eminent 

Turkish scholars, native and foreign, and the resulf plete impoa- 

sibility to d( fine the requisite letters. The space within these picturesque 
walls forms an irregular pentagon, guarded by two double circular, three 
circular, four square, and five aetanguhv towers, connected by scarps 
twenty-eight feet high, and fourteen thick, surmounted by a terrepleine 
and crenellated battlements. According to the above tradition, some of 
these tow n and intervening walls repn tent the letters mim (m), ha (h), 
mim (m), and ilal (d), farming the word mhmd, or Mohammed. But 
supposing the three first letters to be represented by the northern, north- 
eastern, and < astern towers, the f'oiirtli is wanting, and cannot be figured 
by the southern and Booth- w es tern Banks, since the curve or tail, as 
necessary to dais as to Pashas, is suppn as 1. 

The Turkish historian, Kvlia, supplies a key to the mystery, and proves 
that it is impossible to distinguish the letters according to the common 
tradition. Evlia's version, for which I am indebted since quitting the 
East, to Messrs. Layard and Longworth, is the more curious, as it is 
founded upon a stratagem similar to that recorded in English history. 

•• The spot," (Roomely Hissar,) says Evlia, " was inhabited by a Greek 
Pappas, who had there a monastery coutaining three hundred monks. 



SIGNET RINGS. 153 

Occasionally great ingenuity, and even grace, is exhi- 
bited, by interweaving the names in pious or mystic sen- 
tences. For instance, the seal of Rifat Mohammed 
Pasha*, whose names signify " prosperity " and " praised," 
contains the following sentence, " My name has found its 
Rifat in being Mohammed.'" 

The signet of another Pasha, descended of a princely 
Crimean family, and named Mohammed Kaaya (the 
rock), runs thus: — " The love of thy glory, O Prince of 
men (Mohammed), is engraved upon my breast as upon 
a rock-f-."" Sometimes the name is encircled by a philo- 
sophical and appropriate sentence. Thus a seal belonging 
to Ahmet Wefyk Effendy, confidential secretary and 
interpreter to the foreign minister, has these words: 
Men samta neja" (There is safety in silence). A seal of 



:. 



These men were, nevertheless, good Mussulmans at heart; so, when 
Mohammed II. projected the conquest, the priest sought him secretly and 
said, ' It is foretold in my books, Sultan, that you are the predestined 
conqueror of our empire. Demand then of the Greek Emperor the 
grant of as much land, on the western side of the Bosphorus, as can be 
compassed with one bull's hide. This being granted, cut the hide into 
narrow strips, and you will thereby obtain sufficient space whereon to 
build a strong fortress.' The Padishah, having followed this advice, 
obtained the grant, and erected the towers so as to form his own name. 
This may be discerned from the opposite hill above Anatoly Hissar. The 
name is written after the manner called Ebjed, according to which the 
word Mohammed corresponds with the number 92, and there are 92 
towers, corners, and angles, (?) and the word Khan corresponds with 
651, and there are 651 battlements. Therefore with the numbers 92 and 
651, you have the words Mohammed Khan." Bianchi (French and 
Turkish Dictionary,) mentions this process of writing names with figures 
under the word Tarickh. 

* Reis Effendy in 1841 and 1843, and Ambassador to the Court of 
Vienna in 1842. 

•f A seal in my possession, once belonging to a Persian prince, Murad 
Hossein, bears these words beautifully engraved in verse : " Oh Lord 
grant my desires (Murad) for the love of Hossein, (the martyr)." 



H 3 



154 SIGNET RINGS. 

the mooncjim bashy (chief astrologer) contains the fol- 
lowing apposite words: — " Knlly shaeen bekader"" (Fate 
regulates all things). 

After the death of All and the murder of his children, 
the Oniiad Kaliphs adhered to tho example of Moham- 
med, ami wore plain seals of silver. Those of almost all 
sovereigns of this dynasty bore, in addition to the name, 
the motto, il Men's sets have all their recompense. ,, The 
Abbasside Kaliphs also restricted themselves to the nso 
of plain silver seals. Some, for instance th.it of 1 laroon al 
Rasehid, were engraved with the additional words, " Ser- 
vant of God, reposes entire confidence in Him, the ono 
and inseparable, with sincere and apright heart.'" Others 
added to their names some moral or philosophical sen- 
tence indicative of their feelings or actions, such us " Tho 
flash of the sabre is the lamp of the brave;" " The wel- 
fare of subjects is the rose-bed of princes;" l " The justice 
of monarch- i- the poor man's buckler. 11 

Others merely bore their touhra, fancifully designed 
in the manner above exemplified. This custom was 
adopted and maintained by tho house of Osman, with 
this difference, that the imperial seal was and is of pure 
gold, and contained no other addition than a small mono- 
gram in the upper corner, designating the title assumed by 
the Sovereign, such as t% The conqueror," " The saintly, 11 
" The just," kt The victorious, 11 in the manner seen over 
mosques or public edifices erected by divers sultans. 
When these titles were not added, a flower was substi- 
tuted, as is the case with the present Sultan Abdoul Med- 
jid (servitor of the church*). 

The reigning monarch has three seals of different sizes, 

• The title given to British Sovereigns, Defender of the Faith, (Hamii- 
dinn), has been borne by several Kaliphs. 






SIGNET KINGS. 155 

all of emerald set in gold, with the same inscription or 
monogram. The first is a small seal, which his Imperial 
Majesty always carries about his person, and hands to his 
secretary when required. The second is somewhat larger, 
and is intrusted to the khasnadar oosta (grand treasurer) 
of the harem, who employs it for all matters that concern 
her department. The third, or great seal of state — 
"imperial seal"" — is confided to the Sadry azem (grand 
vizir), who is also termed the vekily mootlak, absolute 
representative, or alter ego, of the Sultan*. 

This seal bears some analogy to the great signet of 
England, confided to our Chancellor, and is the symbol 
of the highest authority. When a grand vizir is dis- 
missed, the edict generally informs him and the world 
that he is " graciously permitted to proceed to his yally, 
or konak, there to repose from the fatigues of over-arduous 
labours." An officer of the Sultan's cabinet, having 
received this edict from the Sovereign, hastens to the 
private residence of the person dismissed, and, after 
exhibiting the firman which contains the nomination of a 
successor, demands from him the imperial seal. This 
usually occurs in the afternoon, when business at the 
Porte is completed. 

On the following morning, the same functionary, ac- 
companied by the grand master of the ceremonies, proceeds 
to the abode of the successor, who, being aware of the 
honour conferred upon him, advances to the door of his 
apartment, and, having heard the contents of the firman, 
and received the seal with the same deference that he 
would show to the Sultan's person, places the signet in 

* Sadry azem means literally a "seat of elevation." The word Vizir 
is from the Arabic Vezr, a load, and thus indicates one loaded with 
public affairs. Sadry azem is usually pronounced Sadrazan. 



15G OFFICIAL SE.VLS. 

his bosom, where it is supposed to remain night and day, 
so loner as he holds office. Those ceremonies being ter- 
minated, the new vizir proceeds in state to the Porte. 
There he finds the numerous heads of departments and 
subordinates prepared to compliment him, and receives 
his predecessor's portfolio of office carefully scaled. The 
different ministers being assembled, the new \izir 
breaks tho seal in their presence, extracts the con- 
tents, and forthwith commences business. An early and 
appropriate day is then fixed upon for his proceeding to 
return thanks to tho Sultan, or, as we should term it, to 
kiss hands. 

Tho chiefs of all departments of state have their 
respective seal- of office, J kved with their official 
titles. That of the Grand Vizir, which is distinct 
from the Imperial seal, run- thus: — An Ajeneby Hab-y- 
Alyeo Devlet Alva (from the Sublime Porto of the 
Ottoman Empire). That of the Reis Bffendy is thus 
worded: Xazarcty Omoorcc Kharijyco Devlet Alva 
(from the Minister of Foreign Affairs of the Ottoman 
Empire.) 

The form and quality of paper to which seals or signa- 
tures are officially applied, are strictly defined. Tiny are 
of four kinds. Of these, the seals and signatures differ, 
or aro omitted, according to circumstances. Thus, — 
1. Private or common notes, written upon half a sheet 
of paper, arc neither doubled nor signed. When finished, 
they are rolled up and pinched at the extremities. The 
flat, pliant wax, in general use, is then coiled round, and 
the ends of this wax being pressed firmly together, the 
small personal signet is applied upon it. 

2. Letters of more important character, from heads of 
departments to colleagues or subordinates, are written 



OFFICIAL SEALS. 157 

upon a long sheet of paper, doubled vertically. When 
completed, they are signed with the writer's name, and, 
being folded laterally, are placed in a long envelope, 
shaped like the English official cover, and sealed with 
three seals. But generally the latter are inscribed with 
a motto, and not with the signature or name seal, one or 
both of these being within. 

S. Diplomatic notes, written by, or in the names of, 
chiefs of departments, are not usually signed. But the 
minister adds the date, and the official seal is upon the 
envelope, whether of paper or gauze. A foreign diplo- 
matist, probably ignorant of this custom, recently re- 
turned a note of this kind to the Porte; stating that, 
there being no signature, he knew not whence it came. 
This was a sturdy imitation of a scene that had occurred 
between Tahir Pasha and the Grand Vizir. But the 
Reis Effendy showed himself more complaisant than the 
latter. He returned a satisfactory explanation, saying 
the while, " This man would find dirt in Paradise." 

4. Ministerial notes, or vizirial letters, are written 
upon a long sheet of strong, glazed paper, with a broad 
margin, and a space of two or more inches between the 
lines. These are stamped with the minister's name, and 
sometimes signed also at the conclusion. They are folded 
in envelopes of gauze or paper, and sealed with the official 
signet, on hot or cold wax. 

The skill of Stambol engravers has fallen off con- 
siderably within the present century. The most cele- 
brated artists of the day are Yumnee and Izzy Ef- 
fendys. The former, a young man, promises to attain 
great perfection in his art, unless he loses ground by the 
time employed on the pilgrimage to Mecca, which he 
undertook in 1843. A young engraver named Mustafa 



158 SEAL ENGRAVERS. 

is likewise skilful, and is among the most remarkable for 
obliging manners and reasonable prices. But none of their 
performances are to be compared to those of the profes- 
sion in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, or even 
to those of Uhamy and Fence Efiendys, the first of whom 
was a Mevlevy dervish, whoso exercises turned both body 
and brain, so that he died insane in 1S06; the second, 
less devout, died in 1834. 

The Stambol engravers were, however, far inferior in 
their best days to those of [spahan. Seals and talismans 
cut by the latter, whether ancient or modern, bear a 
much higher price, and are infinitely superior in delicacy 
of execution to those of Constantinople. This superiority 
of the Persian over the Turkish engravers is observable 
in stones and seals set in silver, or in stones not mounted, 
and commonly called talismans. The latter are of various 
sizes, but generally cornelians and agates of oval form. 
The inscriptions consist of passages from the Kooran, or 
moral sentences, in the finest and most erudite characters. 

Prices differ according to size, length of engraving, and 
antiquity. Sometimes a thousand or twelve hundred 
piastres arc demanded, but fine specimens are now and 
then found for three hundred and fifty to five hundred. 
Common specimens are still cheaper. The value of a 
talisman, in the opinion of the Turks, depends much upon 
the efficacy and sanctity attached to the inscription, or to 
the stone having, perhaps, belonged to some sainted 
sheikh, or to its having been carried to Mecca and 
rubbed against the black stone of the Keaba. The prin- 
cipal merit in the eyes of Frank collectors is antiquity 
and fineness of engraving, and the more so, since antique 
talismans are rarely met with in the bazars. In fact, 
Turkish engravers would rarely waste their time in pre- 



SEAL ENGRAVERS. 159 

paring talismans, for which there is little demand among 
their co-religionists, were they not enabled to sell them, 
now and then, to Frank travellers. 

Modern talismans may be easily recognised by the 
coarseness of execution, and their being for the most part 
in colloquial Turkish, engraved upon pale red, white, or 
greenish cornelian. 

Arabic talismans, or those in Kufic characters, are rare ; 
but still more rare are the cylindrical or barrel-shaped 
seals of Babylon. The latter seldom find their way to 
Constantinople, where, from ignorance of, and indifference 
to, all subjects of antiquity, not immediately connected 
with their own faith, these interesting relics of ancient art 
are neither prized nor sought for by Turks. Some speci- 
mens may nevertheless be met with, but not in the 
engravers' bazar. 

The dealers in such articles are Arabs, or Armenian 
merchants from the interior of Asia; and retailers are 
generally Greeks and Armenians, belonging to that class 
to whose rogueries there are only one or two exceptions 
named elsewhere. But strangers, visiting Constantinople, 
have little chance of purchasing additions to their collec- 
tions of gems, intaglios, or antiques of any kind, save 
through the agency of these men, and even then they 
incur risk of being deceived with spurious specimens. It 
is well known that manufactories for such articles are 
established in Italy, and that their productions are for- 
warded for sale to the Levant. The Pera dealers have, 
moreover, their regular customers, who gladly purchase all 
rare or valuable articles, and leave the refuse to travellers. 

Even these collectors find difficulty in procuring Baby- 
lonian or ante-Alexandrian specimens, which are found 
among ruins of those periods. These antiquities consist 



1G0 SEAL ENGRAVERS. 

of cylinders and seal rings, either of baked clay or sonic 
hard natural substance. The first arc from four to six 
inches long, conical or barrel-shaped, and covered with 
cuneiform letters. The inscriptions, in all cases, appear 
to have been impressed beforo the clay was hardened by 
exposure to heat, and arc written in the most complicated 
Babylonian character. 

They arc met with among the ruins of Babylon, 
Nineveh, lv' sen, and other cities of the same remote 
period. Cylinders of harder material aro rarely found 
but at Babylon. Mr. H. A. Layard, who minutely 
explored these parts during the year 1842, was unable to 
discover them elsewhere*. 

These cylinders are usually from an inch to an inch 
and a half long, and one third of an inch m diameter at 
the base, of pure cylindrical, or, as it now and then occurs, 
of barrel shape. 

They arc frequently of cornelian, onyx, common agate, 
and blood -stone, or of more precious substances; but 
more commonly of a black composition, the exact nature 
of which has not, I believe, been decided. Symbolical 
or fantastic animals, such as are seen among the sculp- 
tures of Pcrscpolis and elsewhere, and human figures 
representing divinities and priests of the Magian religion, 
arc engraved upon these cylinders, and generally accom- 
panied by two or more perpendicular cuneiform lines. 
Sometimes the whole cylinder is occupied with figures, 

" M. Botta, French Consul at Mossoul, a gentleman of extensive 
Oriental erudition, lias commenced excavations and researches at 
Nineveh, which may prove beneficial to antiquarian lore. Whilst Mr. 
Fellowes is engaged in Syria, other Englishmen have not been idle 
elsewhere. Lord Eastnor has, with praiseworthy zeal, devoted time 
to exploring the ruins of the ancient Cyzicus, hitherto little known. 



SEAL ENGRAVERS. 161 

and has no inscriptions. The smaller articles of this 
class are invariably drilled vertically, so as to admit a 
string. They were probably worn as charms. 

Seal rings of the same material as the smaller cylinders, 
roughly executed and without metal setting, are more 
common. They bear the figures of animals, generally 
goats or lions, and sometimes human busts or birds. 
Babylonian bricks, with arrow-head inscriptions, are well 
known to antiquarians. They are found in various parts 
of Mesopotamia, Assyria, Babylonia, and Susiana, and 
among all ruins designated as Babylonian. 

Square tablets of baked clay are also frequently dis- 
covered among these ruins, having cuneiform inscriptions, 
to which are added impressions of seals. These appear 
to have been legal documents testified by witnesses. 

Greco-Babylonian antiquities form a higher and dis- 
tinct class. They consist of cameos, intaglios, coins, 
medals, and sometimes also of small figures of men and 
animals, delicately executed in silver or brass. The 
coins are those of Alexander or the Seleucidse. But 
there is the less excuse for my wandering so far from the 
subject immediately before us, as specimens of these rare 
and beautiful antiquities seldom find their way to Con- 
stantinople, and are never met with in the Hakaklar 
tcharsshy. 

It would be superfluous to dilate upon the antiquity 
or general belief in charms and amulets, which, even at 
the present day, is not confined to Orientals. Implicit 
confidence in the efficacy of talismans, charms, and relics, 
is, perhaps, more deeply rooted in some Christian lands 
than in the East. Indeed, the religious exaltation and 
superstition of some Christian populations equal, if they 
do not surpass, those of Moslems. 



162 SEAL ENGRAVERS. 

Turkish talisman engraven, feigning ignorance of the 
antiquity of the art, affirm that the first specimen was 
engraved upon a piece of white agate by one of the 
Prophet's disciples, named Aksha Beny Hashcm. Having 
seen Mohammed performing his ablutions, and perceiving 
the large mole, or stigma, that was imprinted between 
his shoulders, as it was supposed by the hand of the 
Almighty, the disciple engraved a likeness of this upon 
a small fragment of agate, encircled it with verses from 
the Kooran, and wore it himself as a talisman. 

Having constantly enjoyed good health, aud escaped 
unscathed from various desperate encounters, in which 
the Prophet and his followers were engaged with the 
Koureish, Aksha Beny Hashem attributed this good 
fortune to his talisman, which had been approved of and 
sanctified by his patron. This being known, many 
persons employed him to engrave similar amulets; so 
that he thereby obtained wealth and immortality. It is 
said that one of these talismans was found at Cairo when 
Selim I. conquered Egypt, and that it now exists among 
the relics preserved in the Holy Chamber of the .Seraglio. 

Engravers' 1 shops are open at the sides and above, but 
have a small recess or back chamber for work, prayers, 
or receiving visitors. The different specimens, consisting 
of agates, cornelians, porphyry, blood-stones, chalcedony, 
&c, are kept in saucers, placed in small glass cases, rest- 
ing upon a portable locker. The master generally sits 
in the front shop, and pursues his delicate avocation, 
aided by one or more workmen, undisturbed by the 
passing crowds. Most of them, however, shake off their 
wonted apathy, and, keeping a watchful eye on Frank 
visitors, seek to attract their notice with the fascinating 
words, "Telesm! Telesm! Capitan." 



SEAL ENGRAVERS. 163 

These engravers must not be confounded with 
lapidaries, who are principally Jews, and have their 
workshops in one of the lateral streets, contiguous to the 
Mahmoud Pacha gate of the bazars. The latter pur- 
chase stones, by wholesale, from Arab or Persian dealers, 
who, upon their arrival at the Khans, send round to 
invite customers. The Hebrews then retail the stones, 
cut and polished, to engravers. 

It is difficult to assign prices for engraved stones. 
The value depends upon quantity and beauty of execu- 
tion, the merits of which can be appreciated by those 
only who are intimately versed in the intricacies of fine 
calligraphy. Agate or cornelian talismans, about one 
inch long, and of ordinary character, vary from two 
hundred to three hundred piastres; nor is this price 
excessive, when it is considered that from ten to twenty 
days' labour are required. Small blood-stones, agates, 
and cornelians suitable for rings, cost about eight piastres, 
and the engraving of two or three words, neatly orna- 
mented, from twenty-five to forty; but it is only by 
experience and comparison that engravings can be justly 
valued. 



1G4 



OZOON TCHARSSHY. 




NAELIN (r.VTTBNs); KOORNA, (FOUNTAIN IN BATHS.) 



CHAPTER V. 

OZOON TCHARSSHY, LONG MARKET; HOUSEHOLD 
FURNITURE; WEARING AITAREL; MARRIAGE 
CEREMONIES. 



Massive wooden urates divide the en gravers' street and 
two Byt Bazars from Ozoon Tcharsshy. The latter, 
being occupied by a variety of trades intimately con- 
nected with domestic and familiar usages, deserves de- 
tailed notice. 

The first portion is crowded with dealers in coarse 



WAIST GIRDLES. 165 

muslin and cotton handkerchiefs, embroidered in gold 
and coloured silks by the Christian and Jewish women 
of the Fanar, Vlanga Bostan, and Balat. These are 
generally employed for carrying fruit and other articles, 
as hand-baskets are considered infra dignitatem. Even 
female slaves accompanying mistresses to market carry 
purchases in handkerchiefs or cloths, held under their 
ferijee. 

The most remarkable articles seen on both sides of 
this crowded thoroughfare are, sarik (turban winders) 
of divers colours and materials ; ootchkoor (long stripes 
of linen embroidered at the extremities), for running 
through and supporting the broad hems of trowsers or 
drawers, which latter are worn by all classes and at all 
seasons by day and night ; kooshak and mushtim 
(girdles of red woollen or other stuffs) worn outside the 
waistcoat by the peasantry and lower orders. In these 
are deposited knives, poniards, pocket-handkerchiefs, 
ink-stands, &c. 

The common people are so much attached to girdles, 
that even soldiers generally wear them under their 
uniforms. This custom, however disagreeable to the 
eye, is permitted upon hygeic principles. Habituated 
as these poor men are from infancy to wear girdles, and 
to preserve the abdomen as warm as possible, and 
subject as all are to inflammatory and gastric com- 
plaints, these girdles are considered by them as neces- 
sary to health and comfort. The result is a complete 
disarray of the figure, and thence a most mis-shapen 
soldier*. 

* With the exception of the lancers of the guard, who wear scarlet 
hussar dolmans, neatly embroidered, and the marines, who also wear scar- 
let round jackets, the uniform of all troops consists of blue trousers and 



1GG OZOOX TCHARSSHY. 

Accustomed from childhood to case of limbs, and to 
be clothed in a manner suitable to local tastes, faith, and 
climate ; having no good models before them, and no 
esprit de corps — this latter virtue having perished with 
the Janissaries — Turkish soldiers always appear stiff 
and suffering when strictly accoutred, and deplorably 
slovenly when abandoned to themselves, which is ge. 
nerally the case. For, provided the regulation uniform 
appear outside, no trouble is taken to ascertain tho 
quantity of clothing underneath. Thus they commonly 
wear two or more waistcoats, and often a quilted coatee, 
with wide drawers, thick waist-girdles, and various 
other portions of ordinary attire, under the jacket and 
trowsers. Lieutenant-General Jochmus, a ferik in tho 
service of the Porte, proposed to modify the regulation- 
dress by introducing uniforms somewhat similar to those 
worn by the Egyptian troops, which are well suited to 
the habits, religion, and climate, and to military pur- 
poses. But the jealousy always exhibited towards 
Christians in the Ottoman service, combined with other 
ill-founded notions, induced the Serasker to reject this 
useful modification. 

The next articles that attract notice in Long Market 
are ihrams. These are of two kinds. The first consist 
of oblong, elastic blankets, principally manufactured at 
Philippopoli. Those in common use are scarlet and blue. 

single-breasted round jacket of coarse cloth. The only relief to this is a 
red front to the collar, with the regimental number on a small brass 
plate, and red edging to cuffs. White cress-belts and red fez, with blue 
tassel, an ill-packed knapsack, and slip-shod shoes, complete the dress. 
Foot-straps have been unwisely added. These articles, always embarras- 
sing to soldiers, are utterly inappropriate for men who are compelled to 
take off shoes five times daily for prayer, and can only enter their guard 
and barrack-rooms barefoot. 



IIIRAMS AND ARABAS. 167 

Purple is reserved for Sultans and Validas, and green for 
Prophet's kin. The ends are ornamented with gold 
Tinge, and the price varies from ninety to two hundred 
piastres. These ihrams are sometimes spread over divans, 
md placed in kayiks. They are invariably employed 
ilso to cover the tilts of arabas, the fringed ends beinc 

'CD CD 

suspended over the extremities. 

The appearance of many of these arabas, covered with 
3right-coloured, gold-fringed ihrams, drawn by sleek 
md stately oxen, fantastically adorned and harnessed, 
*ives to places of public resort an air of brilliancy 
md originality that defies description, and cannot be 
Faithfully rendered by the most vivid colourist. 

The snow-white yashmaks and many-coloured ferijees 
3f the fair Turks harmonize pleasingly with the vehicles 
in which they are seated, while the sober pace and mild 
expression of the white oxen attached to these cars are 
in accordance with the grave deportment of the people. 
Were Turkish ladies, dressed as they are at present, to 
be seated in London equipages, they would appear as 
much out of place and character, as Christian ladies in 
European dress, when reclining upon the cushions of 
arabas. 

A witty contributor to the Quarterly Review fell 
bitterly upon a French scavant, some years ago, because 
the learned antiquarian declared that his classic medita- 
tions had been disturbed by the apparition of a smiling 
English handmaid, with green veil and pink spencer, at 
the foot of the great Pyramid. Now, at the risk of 
encountering similar shafts from the same or from other 
congenial quivers, I will venture to assert that nothing 
can be more out of keeping, nothing more calculated to 
disenchant and materialize, than the small flaunty hats, 



16S OZOON TCIIARSSIIY. 

unveiled faces, and oftentimes half-veiled persons of 
European ladies, when mingling with close-veiled and 
picturesquely-clad natives upon the banks of the Bos- 
phorus. 

With the one, imagination enjoys full scope, and 
poetry acquires increased fervour ; with the other, ideal- 
ity is dispelled, and prose doubly materialized. One 
lady, and she of high degree and mature age, visited the 
Bosphorus within the last five years, and carried this 
ingenuous frankness of attire, this open game of mil- 
linery, to wondrous extremes; so that Turks and 
Christians turned aside, and sought by averted looks to 
supply that negative covering, whieh the fair wanderer 
had apparently cast to the Danube nymphs on her 
passage through the Iron Gates. Saving the traditions 
of Eve, so much nakedness had never been heard of in 
the land. 

An unpleasant adventure recently occurred to an 
English gentleman and his wife travelling from Jeru- 
salem to Damascus. They were encountered by a band of 
Arab robbers, who, not content with plundering the good 
couple of all raiment, compelled them to walk many 
miles, arm in arm, attired as our first parents were 
attired before the fall, until they approached Damascus. 
There the lady took refuge from inquisitive eyes in a 
tank, till her husband met with two passengers willing to 
lend their camel-hair cloaks, which enabled the denuded 
pair to enter the city, and to conceal all and more than 
the lady of high degree had taken pains to exhibit. 

The name of ihram is also given to the penitentiary 
mantle, worn by pilgrims during the ceremonies and 
sacrifices at Mecca. It formerly consisted of two square 
and seamless pieces; one being rolled round the head, 



IHRAM. 169 

and the other serving as a wrapper to the body. But 
the fashion has changed, and ihrams, made at Constan- 
tinople, consist of one piece, twenty-six feet long and six 
wide, which is rolled and draped round head, shoulders, 
and body. 

The adoption of this garment, and the laying aside of 
every other article of dress, are imperative upon all male 
pilgrims, at the moment they approach the first limits 
of the holy territory, which is invariably arranged by 
the director-in-chief of the caravan, so as to take place 
on the 9th of the month Zilliidja ; that is, on the day 
preceding the eve of Courban Beiram. Females are 
likewise bound to adopt the ihram, but are excused 
from setting aside other garments. Men may also 
retain the girdle containing their money and jewels, a 
sabre, a signet-ring on their finger, and a Kooran sus- 
pended in a bag from their necks. 

The ihram must be worn until all practices of the 
pilgrimage are fulfilled. Many ultra-devout persons 
assume this emblem of contrition as early as it is per- 
mitted by law, that is, forty days before Courban Beiram, 
and consequently on the 1st of Zilcada*. When the cere- 
monies are completed, and the ordinary dress is resumed, 
the generality of pilgrims carefully fold up and preserve 
their ihram, that they may be converted into winding 
sheets, when they are called away to those regions of 
forgiveness and enjoyment, which the common people 
suppose to be the indubitable award of all those who 
have accomplished the duties of pilgrimage. 

Ihramjee compose a numerous company, and are busily 
employed throughout the year in preparing these wrap- 

* This restriction is enforced, in order that the mantle may not lie- 
come worn by common exposure, and also as a protection to health. 

VOL. III. I 



170 DIVANS. 

pers for the departure of the caravan from Constanti- 
nople. The trade venerate Khadija. the Prophet's first 
wife, as their patroness, she having woven the first peni- 
tentiary garment assumed by her husband, whilst her 
hand-maids performed the same service for his favourite 
disciples. 

West of Ozoon Tcharsshy are numerous alleys tra- 
versing each other in such confusion and intricacy as to 
render correct delineation of their position extremely 
difficult. These comprise Yorganjylar Market (see m, 
m, m, in plan), and are tenanted by dealers in yorgan 
(coverlets), yasdik (cushions), carpets of all kinds, and 
mattresses for divan-', called minder by Arabs and Turks. 
The European designation divan was probably given to 
minder, because persons holding divans or councils arc 
usually seated upon cushions. Thus the destination was 
mistaken for the article itself. Tn modern times minder 
have been made up on wooden frames; hut formerly they 
consisted of two or three narrow mattresses, stuffed with 
straw, hay, or wool, more or less like our Chancellor's 
woolsack, which is, in fact, a true Oriental minder. 

Divans are sometimes called sofa by the Armenians. 
This word is derived from saffeh, an elevated platform. 
Our "sofa" is evidently taken from this. But the word 
sofa is exclusively applied by Turks to a large ante-room, 
generally to be found in their houses, and which in earlier 
times was constructed upon an open platform in the courts 
of mansions and villas. 

In Turkish habitations, the framework of divans gene- 
rally consists of rough wooden planks, over which is 
placed a long narrow mattress, filled with wool or straw. 
This is covered with printed cotton, chintz, or cloth, 
bordered with fringe, and frequently festooned. In 



DIVANS. 171 

wealthy houses, these covers are of costly materials, such 
as silk or velvet, embroidered with gold or silver, the 
frames of carved wood. At the back and extremities 
are thick cushions of the same materials, and a long strip 
of white linen is stretched over the seat and cushions from 
end to end to preserve them from being soiled. These 
strips of linen, which can be removed and replaced in an 
instant, are kept carefully stretched, clean and free from 
creases. 

The left hand is the place of honour upon all occasions, 
and nice etiquette is observed in ceding or retaining this 
position, upon the entrance of superiors, equals, and 
inferiors. One Turkish gentleman stated that, in order 
to avoid embarrassments, he always placed a pile of 
books in the left corner of his divan. The minder or 
sofa occupies the whole front of apartments nearest to the 
street. They are straight when there are no side win- 
dows, and angular when the apartment is provided with 
a shah nishan — a Persian term, meaning a royal seat. 
These shah nishan are projections, like glazed balconies, 
and are seen in almost all habitations. They have 
several front and one or two lateral windows, so that 
they command views on three sides. 

Great ingenuity and equal caution are displayed in the 
construction of shah nishan. Care must be taken that 
the lateral windows do not look into, or obstruct the 
view from, houses on each side. The schemes employed 
to avoid these difficulties, and yet to obtain the desired 
prospect, give rise to that extreme irregularity and variety 
of architectural design observable in all Turkish houses. 

Although police regulations relative to the cleansing 
and good keeping of public thoroughfares are much 
neglected, the laws concerning the construction of houses 

1 2 



\~2 ARCHITECTURAL REGULATIONS. 

are imperative and nicely defined. In order to insure 
direct compliance, and to preserve some degree of regu- 
larity in the construction of houses, and the laying out 
of new streets, Bajazet II. established :i council of archi- 
tecture, and placed at its head a mimar agfaa (master 
builder), or President of the Board of Works. No pri- 
vate abode can, therefore, be erected or rebuilt, without 
this officer's sanction, and according to the plan laid 
down or approved of by him — that is, as far a^ regards 
height, frontage, aspects, and disposition of shah nishans 
or other chambers liable to interfere with the privacy of 
neighbours. 

Restrictions are also placed on the projection of roofs, 
and on that of water-pipes and gutters, so that passengers 
may not be incommoded by drippings; but these rules 
are little attended to, and the stoutest umbrella is an 
insecure protection against the torrents that descend at 
certain seasons from the roofs of houses. Strictly speak- 
ing, houses ought not to exceed thirty feet in height, or to 
be composed of more than two stories; nor should they 
encroach upon the straight line of public way. But 
these regulations are constantlv evaded, and the mimar 
agha and his subordinates derive increased emoluments 
from bribes and hush-money, given in exchange for per- 
mits of departure from rub-. 

The only clause rigidly adhered to is that respecting 
windows overlooking gardens and apartments of neigh- 
bours. The jealousy which exists in all countries, as to 
perforations in walls of separation, is carried to extreme 
lengths in Stambol. No man dares to contravene the 
laws on this subject; or, if he be powerful enough to do 
so, nothing can prevent his neighbour from erecting, at 
the expense of the former, a wooden screen, which serves 



ARCHITECTURAL REGULATIONS. 1/3 

to shut out intrusive eyes. By this means the person 
contravening obtains light, but does not gain prospect. 

In proceeding up the Bosphorus or through the city 
multitudes of these screens present themselves. They 
are constructed like Venetian blinds, fixed to upright 
poles from fifteen to twenty feet high, and act as substi- 
tutes for the lofty Avails which inclose the courts and 
gardens of all imperial palaces and first-class mansions. 
Privacy is the paramount object of all proprietors, and 
the laws that guarantee this privacy and inviolability are 
so rigidly observed, that the expression " his house his 
castle ,1 can nowhere be more aptly applied. It is only in 
extreme cases that the police can enter private dwellings, 
and then the utmost delicacy must be observed in ob- 
truding upon harems. 

The internal distribution of Turkish houses is as varied 
as their exterior. The general purposes are, however, 
similar. The entrance is, with few exceptions, through 
a double door, furnished with a brass knocker. This 
door, guarded by a respectable grey-bearded porter, is 
large enough to admit horses and vehicles. Behind this 
is a swing-screen, suspended like a gate, which, when 
the front door is opened, prevents passers-by from seeing 
into the vestibule or court. On one side is the staircase 
leading to the salamlyk, mabain, sofa, and other apart- 
ments appropriated to males; and on the other is a door 
conducting to the harem stairs. On the same side as the 
women's door is the swivel-box, intended for communi- 
cating with the harem kitchen, which is always on the 
ground floor. 

Cellars not being required, their places are occupied 
by cisterns for rain water. Upon ascending the staircase, 
at the bottom of which is an elevated marble or stone 



i;i INTERNAL ARRANGEMENTS 

slab, for mounting hones or carriage s, a door opens from 
the first landing-place into the rooms oi' the men-servants 
or slaves — a kind of entresol, where several arc Lodged 
together. These rooms, railed kogash, may be likened 
to onr pantries and servants 1 hall*-. At this point the 
staircase is frequently divided by a doer, which keeps tho 
upper stories warm, and separates menials i'rom mast 
at night. The Landing-plaoe of the first story consists of 
a spacious, unfurnished gallery, called Bom, or divan 
khana. This serves as m antechamber to apartments 
eomprising the salamlyk, whence there are commnnicsr 
tions with the harem. In the abode- of g t men one 
of these antechambers is called the mabain, in which 
sec: and superior attendants await orders during 

day and sometimes deep at night. 

Some i)f these apartments are of Large dimensions, and 
so thickly set with windows on two or more sides as to 
resemble green-houses. The ceilings are invariably of 
wood, carved and divided into square or lo -shaped 

compartments, sometimes painted with flowers or ara- 
besques. The intervening mouldings arc painted or gilt. 
The height is rarely proportioned to the extent. Some- 
times, as for instance in the mansions of Ilalil, Khosref, 
Reschid, lliza, Tahir, Kaonf, and other eminent Pashas, 
the walls, ordinarily of plain stucco, are wainscoted, and 
painted in imitation of flowers, fruit, and landscapes. 
Taper or other covering to walls, even in the imperial 
palaces, is unknown. 

In proportion as intercourse with Europeans extends, 
fashions and customs vary, so that an important change 
is rapidly taking place in the furniture of houses. Thus, 
in those of wealthy persons, chairs, sofas, tables, consoles, 
mirrors, wardrobes, chandeliers, and a, variety of western 



OF HABITATIONS. 175 

essentials may be seen, Indeed, the Sultan's private 
day-apartments, at Tcheraghan and Beshiktash, are fur- 
nished more in the European than Oriental style. Fire- 
places or stoves are alone wanting to give them the 
appearance of the most commodious French or German 
saloons*. The middling classes are also making some 
progress, but in general they retain their ancient simpli- 
city. Their furniture is limited to divans, mats, carpets, 
and a few pieces of glass or porcelain placed in wooden 
niches. 

Although the wooden galleries (tchardak) generally 
raised upon the roofs of Christian houses at Pera and 
Galata, are forbidden at Constantinople, many houses are 
provided with a chamber raised above the upper storyf . 
This chamber, having windows on all sides, corresponds 
with the Belvideres of the continent, and is termed 
Jehan Numa (world displaying), as extensive views are 
obtained from it. Splendid specimens of these elevated 
apartments may be seen above the salamlyk and harem 
at the palaces of Tcheraghan. But their construction 
gives rise to repeated discussions and law-suits, from their 
looking into other people's premises. He who possesses 
the greatest power or most extensive means of bribing 
the mimar agha, generally triumphs. 

The Turks are fastidiously careful in the distribution 
and arrangement of certain portions of their houses 
essential to health and comfort; and in this respect their 
habitations are infinitely superior to those of Italians, 

* The Sultan's cabinet, in which is a piano-forte, contains a large fire- 
place after the Oriental fashion. This consists of an aperture in the 
wall, protected by a brass guard. 

•J- Tchardak are forbidden at Constantinople, because they would 
enable persons to look into their neighbours' premises. 



i;g internal ARRANGEMENT, 

Spaniards, Portuguese, and other more civilized people. 
These apartments are politely designated edeb khana 
(abodes of decency). They are spacious, airy, walled 
and floored with marble, most abundantly supplied with 
water, and generally provided with a small antechamber, 
in which a semi-circular koorna (fountain), such as are 
used in baths, is affixed to the wall, and communicates 
with the inner compartment. A pair of wooden aaelin 
(pattens), with an earthen or metal ewer, form part of 
the accessories. Each story and suite of apartments is 
provided with one or more "abodes of decency;"" and in 
families, where there are more than one wife, each lady 
is specially entitled to one of these retreats. In the 
Sultan's palaces they are richly ornamented with sculp- 
tured marbles, and aro in keeping with the admirable 
cleanliness that distinguishes the interior of higher class 
dwellings in Constantinople. 

In almost all large Turkish houses, one or more baths 
are erected and attached to harems; so that the ladies or 
masters can enjoy this luxury at home. These baths aro 
small, but neatly fitted up, and similar in their arrange- 
ments to the large public bammams. In short, it may be 
affirmed that, in all matters concerning health and per- 
sonal cleanliness, the distribution of Turkish houses is 
equal to that of the most luxurious Western cities, and 
far superior to those of many which boast of more 
refined civilization. The principal architects, at the 
present day, are Armenians, who for the most part 
employ workmen of their own faith. In these opera- 
tions, however, carpenters are more necessary than 
bricklayers or masons, whose duties are limited to founda- 
tions and roofs — all intervening parts, excepting the 
edeb khana, kitchen chimney, and bath, being of wood. 



AND FURNITURE OF HOUSES. 1/7 

Yorganjee also make shilty, (thin mattresses) stuffed 
with cotton. These are placed upon the ground on the 
side of the room, with the back leaning against the 
divan, and are the favourite seats of masters and mis- 
tresses in their private apartments. Those who read or 
write much prefer this position to sitting upon their 
divans, unless it be at their yallys, whence they may 
enjoy lovely prospects and refreshing air. Shilty are 
made of coarse linen filled with cotton, and covered with 
chintz or richer materials. The cotton is beaten and 
cleansed by the halladjee, whose shops are frequently 
met with. These men hold a long bow, with a wire 
cord, in the left hand, and in the right a box-wood 
mallet. They strike the cord with the latter, and thus 
cause the vibration to sift and separate the cotton scat- 
tered beneath. When duly prepared by this method, 
the cotton is laid between two pieces of coarse linen, and 
lightly sewed at intervals. A piece of figured chintz 
or other stuff is then laid over one side, and neatly 
wadded. A calico sheet is added to the reverse side, 
and the edges, being folded over about four inches, are 
sewed down. One or more of these coverlets serve as 
quilts and blankets, and are both light and warm. 
Quilts somewhat similar are common at Frankfort and 
in the Rhenish provinces. 

Mattresses (minder or dooshek) are made in the same 
manner but generally of wool. Two are usually em- 
ployed. In this case, the lower mattress is merely a 
thick sack, filled with Indian-corn straw, and the upper 
of cotton, wool, or hair. The sheet is sewed to the 
upper surface of the latter, and is removed only when 
washing is required. It is generally of coarse calico, or 
of the material, part silk, [part cotton (birunjuk), em- 

i 3 



178 INTERNAL ARRANGEMENT, 

ployed for shirting. Sometimes these sheets are of 
extraordinarily tine texture, and are interwoven with 
strips of silk, resembling bands of satin ribbon. A 
bolster, stuffed with cotton and covered with a <.-a.se of 
hirnnjnk, embroidered with silken flowers, and a .small 
square pillow of the same materials, support the head. 

The outer coverlet is sometimes made of merino or 
Angora "chaly,* 1 beautifully embroidered and tastefully 
quilted. This operation is generally performed by the 
ladies and slaves of the family, who are as proud of their 
embroidery as the good housewives of England or 
Germany. At first, Turkish beds placed on the ground 
and destitute of elasticity, appear hard and inconvenient, 
hut short practice familiarises Btrangers to their use. and 
renders them as agrt Bable as those of Europe. They 
are always preferable to the stilling feather-beds of 

rmany. Tn winter, however, the draughts of air 
entering beneath badly-closing doors, and through ill- 
fitting windows, expose sleepers to colds that might be 
avoided if the mattresses were elevated upon frames. 
On the other hand, the practice is convenient, for tho 
whole of the bedding is removed at sunrise, and de- 
posited in one of the large closets (youk) which arc 
constructed in all rooms destined for repose. In tho 
mean time, bedsteads of iron are introduced in all 
government hospitals, barracks, and academies, and are 
considered essential to the health and comfort of soldiers 
and students. 

In imperial palaces and those of sultanas and great 
personages, the various articles of bedding are extremely 
rich. The coverlets, for instance, of Merino, Angora, 
Chaly, or Lahore stuffs, admirably embroidered with 
coloured silks, representing foliage, flowers, and ara- 



AND FURNITURE OF HOUSES. 179 

besques, are of silk encrusted with gold and silver 
embroidery, interwoven with small pearls and turquoises. 
The pillows and bolsters are similarly ornamented, with 
the addition of large tassels of gold, and silk or seed 
pearls at the extremities, and the sheets of birunjuk as 
fine as the most delicate cambric. During summer, 
djebinlik (mosquito-nets), of Tripoli gauze, sprigged 
with gold, are suspended by hoops over the sleeper. On 
the death of exalted personages, many of these rich and. 
beautiful articles, nearly as bright and untarnished as 
when first made, are sold to the bazar yorganjee, who 
have their stores in the small contiguous khans. There 
they may be found in abundance, as the dealers do 
not expose their most valuable articles in open market. 

The yorganjee form a numerous corporation. A por- 
tion of them have a bazar at Galata, but they deal only 
in inferior articles. The price of common bed-quilts, 
covered with chintz, varies from forty to sixty piastres, 
that of mattresses from twenty to thirty, and bolsters 
from eight to twelve, so that a Turkish housekeeper can 
procure an excellent bed for less than one hundred 
piastres. 

According to tradition, quilted coverlets were not in- 
troduced until the marriage of the Prophet's daughter 
Fatmeh with Ali. Prior to that event, bed-coverings 
consisted of rugs of camel-hair or some other coarse ma- 
terial. The marriage being announced to Mohammed's 
disciples, one of them, a native of the Punjab, set. to 
work and converted a noble Cashmere shawl into a 
coverlet and presented it to the Prophet, to be added to 
his daughter's marriage presents. The fashion spread 
rapidly. Osman, who first introduced rich furniture and 
extreme luxury into the hitherto simple abodes of the 



180 SIIAII SULTANA. 

Kaliphs, ordered 'quilts of unrivalled magnificence, em- 
broidered with pearls and precious stones, and present* d 
three or four to his daughter, the beautiful Umm (iul- 
sum, upon her marriage with Emir Ben Rakiya, bod of 
Omer. Osman is, consequently, respected as patron of 
all yorganjee*. 

It is affirmed, and this upon authority not to he 
doubted, that, when kadinns cuter the Sultan's deeping 
chamber, which does not occur until His Highness has 
retired to his conch, tiny approach the foot, lilt up the 
coverlet, and raise it to their forehead and lips. After 
this mark of obeisance, they make their way into their 
resting place by gliding upwards. The same mark of 
deference is paid to Sultanas by those who arc honoured 
with the hands of those illustrious ladies. The husband 
in this case waits until he is summoned, and. having 
reached the foot of the couch, performs the ceremony of 
bowing and raising the quilt to bi- forehead, alter which 
he is permitted to attain the bower of felicity by the 
same " sliding scale." 

When Shah Sultana, sister to Selira III., was married 
to Kara Mustafa Pasha, her Highness established the 
superiority of her rank over her husband in a summary 
manner; and this upon their marriage night. The im- 
patient Pasha, not aware of the fiery and capricious 
character of his imperial bride, vainly waited until 
within an hour of dawn for the wonted summons to the 
nuptial chamber. At length, fearing that the muezinn 
would announce morning prayer before he could enter 
his wife's apartment, and that he should consequently 
be accused of neglect, he set aside his twentieth pipe, 
and boldly proceeded to the harem. Here he opened 

Von Hammer. 



SHAH SULTANA. 1S1 

the Sultana's door, said his prayer, and approached the 
foot of the couch. Better had he disturbed a sleeping 
lioness. As he was in the act of stooping to kiss the 
hem of the coverlet, the recumbent Sultana cast him 
prostrate with a blow of her foot. Then, springing from 
her couch, she flew at his face, and, in spite of his sup- 
plications of " My Sultana ! my soul ! my lamb ! corner 
of my liver! Aman ! anian !" (mercy!) she lacerated 
his cheeks and nose so piteously, that blood streamed on 
the floor. Then, clapping her hands for her female 
attendants, she bade them drive the insolent intruder 
from her presence, and retired to bed to compose herself. 

Not satisfied with this explosion of choler, the irri- 
tated princess proceeded next morning to the Seraglio, 
and throwing herself upon her knees, at her Imperial 
brother's feet, demanded the immediate disgrace of the 
" infringer of etiquette," and her divorce from " the in- 
sulter of her dignity. 11 Sultan Selim listened attentively, 
and, when she had finished speaking, highly applauded 
her spirit and promised to admonish and chastise the 
husband. He then dismissed his sister, with an earnest 
recommendation to pardon the offender, and burst into 
a fit of laughter. 

This merriment increased twofold when Kara Mustafa 
entered the presence, humbly craving pardon for the fault 
he had committed, and exhibiting his face miserably 
furrowed and scarified by the virago's nails. It never- 
theless required many days 1 negotiation before the haughty 
princess could be induced to look upon the offender; 
with whom she continued to live upon the most distant 
terms. 

Shah Sultana was justified in her dislike to Kutchuk 
Mustafa. It was this depraved and venal Pasha who, 



182 CAPS AND FEZ. 

in order to obtain the Grand Viziriat, leagued himself 
with Sultan Mustafa and the Janizaries against .Slim 
III. By frustrating the attempts of the celebrated 
Uairactar Pasha to save Sclim's life, the husband of 
Shah Sultana brought about the death of Selim, of 
Bairaetar, and of the imbecile Mustafa. The Princi 
aware of his intrignes and convinced of his guilt, 
banished him eventually from her presence, and, as 
some affirm, hastened his death*. 

Although this Sultana was proverbial for her impetu- 
osity and relentless character, of which man}- anecdotes 
are narrated, she was ly no means the only instance of 
imperious deportment of Sultanas towards individuals 
to whom they were married, frequently against their own 
desire, and invariably without previous communication 
or foreknowledge. With a view, however, of softening 
the aversion of Sultanas to these individuals, young and 
handsome Pashas are selected. Examples of this 
occurred in Said, Achmct Fethi, and llalil Pashas, who 
married Sultan Mahmoud's daughters Mihr ou Mali, 
Atya, and Salyha Sultanas. At the period of their 
respective marriages these three Pashas, all of obscure 
origin, and the last mentioned an emancipated slave to 
Khosref Pasha, were amongst the handsomest men of 
rank in the empire. 

The first alleys branching eastward from Ozoon 
Tcharsshy are tenanted by a variety of trades, of which 
cap-makers, dealers in fez, fez tassels, silk twist, buttons, 
and braiding, are the most conspicuous. Since the aboli- 
tion of the old costume, the number and variety of skull- 

* The site of the once beautiful palace of Shah Sultana, one of the 
few relics of florid Saracenic architecture (in wood), is now occupied by the 
fez manufactory at Eyoub. • 



CAPS AND FEZ. 183" 

caps, worn under the sarik (linen head- winder), have much 
diminished. But there still remains a bewildering 
variety, of which the following are the most striking, and 
are sold in the street called Tarpushjelar market. 

1 . Tarpush are stiffeners of wadded linen, serving as 
linings and supports to the fez, from which they are dis- 
tinct. These tarpush are constantly renewed, whilst the 
fez can be worn many months. 

2. Gidjilik (nightcaps). These are convex, ribbed, 
wadded, and of light felt, chaly, or merino, pink, yellow, 
brown, or green. Though generally reserved for night 
use, they are sometimes worn in privacy as a relief from 
the fez, and are the favourite house-cap of Armenians. 
Turks prefer a light wadded cap, called takka, around 
which they fasten a coloured handkerchief. Sleeping 
caps are generally of light brown felt for men, and the 
ladies, to whom hair papers aud curling irons are un- 
known, content themselves with enveloping their heads 
in a kalemker. 

3. Takka are of various kinds. Those used by the 
women of Asia Minor and the European provinces are 
generally of scarlet, amaranth, or white shalloon, lined 
and lightly wadded. The flat round tops are ornamented 
with spangles and circles of coloured thread. A hand- 
kerchief wound round this forms their ordinary head- 
dress, both at home and abroad. But the Stambol 
ladies wear a low broad fez, with thick blue silk tassels 
falling over the shoulders. This supports the yashmak, 
and gives to it that elevated appearance, which some 
suppose to result from a profusion of hair. 

4. Kaook. These are the red skull-caps, of soft felt 
or wadded serge, round which those who still wear turbans 
wind the sarik. They are of various forms. Those worn 



1S4 CAPS AND FEZ. 

by the Oolema arc round, flat-topped, and stitched in dia- 
mond figures or perpendicular lines, much resembling 
the black caps worn by French presidents of tribunals. 
Those used by other persons arc mere oval skull-caps, of 
which little appears above the linen winder, except the 
blue tassel. 

The Prophet's Barikjee, an Aral) of the Kureish tribe, 
named Abdullah Ben Saoud, one of his earliest converts 
and warriors, has the merit of having invented kaooks. 
Prior to the Hcgira, the cap was of brown felt, without 
other addition than a broad strip of linen thrown over 
it. and attached with a camel-hair cord. Being desirous 
to institute a head-dress different from that of the pagan 
Arabs, Mohammed gave a hint to Abdullah, who 
forthwith made a wadded, sword-proof kaook of black 

silk. This he strengthened by winding the cloth round 
in coils, so that it formed an excellent defence against 
"the fiery edge of the scimitar and the sunV ardent 
rays." 1 Such was the origin of the turbans now gene- 
rally seen upon the heads of the middling and lower 
orders. 

But the most important branch of these trades is 
that of fez-sellers. These fez are of different forms and 
sizes. I. The stiff shako-formed, worn by all civil and 
military functionaries and by the marines. The best, as 
to texture and colour, arc imported from the province of 
Morocco whence they derive their name. They are of 
strong, but soft and elastic felt, and invariably dark 
scarlet. The flat top is ornamented with a large blue 
puyskul (tassel) of silk; of this two-thirds are left 
pendent behind, and the remainder is carefully combed 
over the top and sides, leaving a small space vacant in 
front. It is the custom to pass the upper extremity of 



CAPS AND FEZ. 185 

the tassel, affixed to the centre of the fez, through a piece 
of paper, neatly stamped, or cut by the hand, like old- 
fashioned watch-papers. The artists who sell them are 
Armenians, and form a distinct trade. 

African fez, which cost from forty to fifty piastres, are 
preferred. Those served out to the army are made at 
Eyoub. Those in general use are imported from France 
and Leghorn, and are sold, with tassel, for thirty-five 
piastres. The Government manufactory employs three 
hundred hands, under an Armenian sub-director, and 
produces a sufficient supply for the army. The surplus 
are'sold in the bazars without tassels for thirty piastres; 
but they are stiff, heavy, and do not retain their colour. 
Marines wear the military fez, but sailors find it more 
convenient to use those without the tarpush or stiffener 
inside. In lieu of this, they wear a white linen skull- 
cap, neatly stitched, and made by the Turkish and Greek 
women in imitation of those of Egypt. The loose fez, 
the common head dress of the Greek Rayas, is orna- 
mented with a long pendent blue tassel. 

A third kind of fez is the small skull-cap worn by 
boatmen, and by many private individuals when at 
home, and thence called itch-fezy (home or private fez). 
It barely covers the crown of the head, and is orna- 
mented with a blue tassel spread equally round its cir- 
cumference. It is the fashion for the boatmen of The- 
rapia, mostly Greeks, to shave the head entirely, and to 
wear nothing when on the water but this skull-cap, 
which gives them a daring look, not out of character 
with their calling and habits. 

Habit, from early childhood, gives to these men's bare 
skulls a power of resisting degrees of heat that would 
be fatal to unpractised brains. During seven or eight 



186 CAPS AND FEZ. 

months, the sun's rays dart upon the Bosphorus with 
scorching ardour, insupportable almost to those provided 

with hats and umbrellas. But boatmen never flinch, 
and work from sunrise to twilight with unabated vigour, 
and without the slightest evil result. This power of 
resistance is the more remarkable as boatmen are careful, 
when not towing, to cover their heads with a large 
kaook, encircled with an immense black, white, or blue 
linen winder. 

The kaaasslar, or dealers in puyskul (fez tassels) and 
silk twist, form a numerous and wealthy company. 
They are almost all Armenians, Greeks, ami Hebrews. 
The change of head-dress has added to their profits, as 
every individual, high or low. of both sexes, i:-. B at least 
one fez tassel yearly. These are sold by weight at one 
piastre per drachm. Near to their shops are the manu- 
facturers of the ornamental silk lace or braiding (arj), 
employed for trimming gowns and i'erijees. They are 
of various colours and patterns, neatly woven, ami are 
considered as an essential finish to ladies' 1 dresses. Some- 
times they are of plain black, when worn with geranium- 
coloured silks; sometimes of many colours mixed, when 
added to silk plaids, now much in fashion in the harems; 
sometimes they are of gold, or gold and silk (klaptanly 
or ussain arj), when the entary consists of crimson or 
green brocade*. These braidings are of all prices and 
patterns, and are made exclusively by Armenians, whose 
small and delicate hands are well adapted for this workf. 

One of the first objects that strike travellers upon 

* Arj, strictly speaking, means a costly article, a superfluity. 

f It is somewhat remarkable that, whilst the hands and feet of male 
Armenians are comparatively delicate, those of the women are prover- 
bially coarse. 



ARMENIAN KALPAKS. 187 

reaching Constantinople is the unsightly kettle-shaped 
kalpak worn by Armenians. A head-dress more grace- 
less and apparently inconvenient could not have been 
invented; and its ugliness is increased by the wearers' 
heads being shaved, except on the crown, upon which 
the kalpak is perched. The Jewel Bazar, entirely 
tenanted by Armenians, derives a most formidable and 
dismal appearance from these caps. It is difficult to 
comprehend the object of those who imposed kalpaks 
upon the Armenians, unless it was to add inconvenience 
to ridicule, and to destroy, as far as possible, every trace 
of the comeliness with which nature has lavishly en- 
dowed this handsome race. 

Having one day asked an old Armenian what was the 
origin of the kalpak, and why this unseemly head-dress 
had been selected, he replied, "Are we not Rayas? Do 
not the Turks desire to blacken our heads as well as our 
faces?" Now it appears that the patriarchs of the Ar- 
menians, and not the Turks, were the first inventors of 
this lugubrious bonnet. Their object was to adopt and 
perpetuate a head-dress that might distinguish them 
from the Greeks, between whom and the Armenians; 
there exists greater jealousy than between Papists and 
Protestants. 

These caps are composed of fine black lamb-skin, 
stretched upon pasteboard forms. They are made by 
Armenians in Kalpakjylar Tcharsshyssy. The skins 
are for the most part imported from Ourlak, in Russian 
Tartary, but the finest are brought from Khiva and 
Bokhara. A good kalpak costs from 150 to 200 piastres. 
The elderly schismatics and a portion of their families 
rigidly adhere to these caps, but fez are gradually sub- 
stituted among the Catholics and young schismatics; and 



18S ARMENIAN KALPAKS. 

ere long all their faces will be whitened, in so far as 
depends upon the abolition of kalpaks. 

These changes have not taken place without causing 
dissatisfaction and disquietude to the Porte. Tiny have 
been considered as attempts on the part of Kayas to 
abolish the distinctions of dress, which at once point 
them out as dependents on the dominant race. It was 
in consequence of this that Izet Mohammed, Grand 
Vizir in 1842, issued a firman, forbidding all Turkish 
subjects not authorized by civil or military rank, and 
especially Kayas, to wear coats ornamented with frogs 
or braiding, and commanding those Itayas who had 
adopted the fez to resume the kalpak. 

This firman, read in the Turkish mosques and in 
Christian churches, produced so much discontent among 
Kayas, that petitions were addressed by the syndics of 
the different esnafs to the Sultan, praying his Imperial 
Majesty to rescind the edict. The result was concession 
as regarded the kalpak, but it was enjoined that all 
Kayas should attach a strip of black ribbon to the side 
of the fez, or affix to it a brass gilt ornament denoting 
their trade or profession. 

Thus, for instance, the fez of Armenian or Greek watch- 
makers are sometimes ornamented with a watch-plate, 
encircled by a gilt scroll, indicative of their craft. The 
council of twelve Armenian bankers, who form the Mint 
or Finance Committee, under the direction of the Mailya 
Naziry (Finance Minister), are permitted to wear the 
Sultan's cipher in gold on their fez. This symbol of 
bondage sits lightly upon their heads, being amply 
counterbalanced by enormous profits. 

The cross-alleys contiguous to the cap-makers' stalls 
are occupied by venders of ferijees worn by all classes. 



FERIJEES. 189 

This portion of female attire, without which no woman, 
unless a newly-purchased slave, can appear abroad, is of 
the same form for high and low. It is made of fine 
broad cloth for winter, and of light merino, chaly, or 
serge, for summer. The prevalent colours are dark bine 
and olive, but lilac, light brown, and even dark red, are 
not uncommon. Green is reserved for Prophet's kin*. 

The shape of the ferijee is that of a large cloak, with 
the addition of a square cape falling from the neck to the 
ground. They are sometimes lined with white or black 
satin, and ornamented with tassels and an edging of velvet, 
ribbon, or braiding (arj). Women of the higher classes 
generally avoid glaring colours or additional ornaments. 
This is observable in the harems of sultanas and grand 
dignitaries. The ferijees worn by Armenians are of the 
same form, but they are limited to dark colours. The price 
of a ferijee of fine cloth varies from four hundred to five 
hundred piastres, and when lined and trimmed reaches 
one thousand. Those of merino and chaly do not 
exceed three hundred piastres. 

Among kazasslar and iprikjee (silk braid and twist 
dealers), are shops of saltajee, whose wares cannot fail 
to attract notice. They deal in women's and children's 
dolmans and jackets, called saltamarca, an evident cor- 
ruption of Santo Marco, and a relic of the old juste-au- 
corps, worn by the Venetians when they disputed pos- 
session of Galata with the Genoese. These jackets are 
of light cloth, velvet, or merino, of bright colours, richly 

* Strange as it may appear, there is always a preponderance of green 
ferijee among that class of women who are seen loitering around the 
:emeteries, and whose profession in no wise tends to reflect honour upon 
their noble and saintly lineage. It denotes, however, the extreme 
poverty of the Prophet's kin. 



190 DKESS AND FASHIONS. 

embroidered in gold and coloured silks without button?, 
and with short half sleeves. They are worn over the 
entary in winter, and form a picturesque addition to tho 
rich and original costume of the fair sex. They are, 
however, more in vogue in the provinces than in the 
capital. Ladies of fashion look upon them a> gaudy and 
in bad taste. The latter, however, purchase them for 
their lovely children and female slaves, upon whose 
attire they lavish the richest resources of the toilet. This 
custom is what is termed the grax \ by the French; 

it 1 common for ladies of the greatest wealth and 

highest estate to limit then - to printed cottons or 

figured muslins, while their children and slaves arc 
dressed in rich silks, velvets, and brocades. 

Upon quitting the labyrinth of shops on the eastern 
side of Oaoon Tchareshy, many intricate alleys arc 
seen in the opposite direction. These arc tenanted 
by Armenian kapamajec (ready-made clothes men), 
clamorous to attract customers. They deal in entary 
(robes or gowns) for both sexes ; shalwars (trowsers) of 
silk, printed cotton, and figured muslin, for women ; 
tchasgur (men's wide trowsers) of crimson, amaranth, or 
violet cloth, or merino ; yelck (waistcoats) of silk, em- 
broidered with black braiding, and many other articles. 

This portion of the bazar is one of the first points of 
attraction, as the kapamajec deal in the ready-made 
articles which arc eagerly purchased for dressing gowns, 
though inconvenient in form and width for the destined 
object. These gowns are the common robe worn by 
those who retain the ancient costume, and are of Broussa 
or Selimya silks. The price of an entary of good quality 
is about ninety piastres; of shalwars , forty-five, and of 
yelek thirty. Tchasgur cost from seventy to eighty, and 



DRESS AND FASHIONS. 



191 



are better fitted for dressing gown trowsers, than the 
short shalwar*, 

* The following is a list of all articles composing the attire of both 
sexes : — 

Female Dress. 
Gown. 
Trowsers. 
Chemise. 
Linen drawers. 
Waist girdle passed through hem of 

shalwar. 
Shawl waist girdle. 
Head dress, comprising fez and kalem- 

ker, handkerchief, or yeminy. 
House slippers (embroidered). 
Yellow walking boots. 
Slippers. 
Cloak. 
Veil. 

Wadded jacket, for winter. 
Fur pelisse, do. 



Entary , 
Shalwar 

Giumlik . . 
Dyslik '. 
Outchkoor . 

Kooshak . 
Fotazy . . 

Tchipship . 

Tirlik, or tchedik 

Papoosh 

Ferijee . . 

Yashmak . . 

Seimen 

Kurk 



Men 



Giumlik 

Entary 

Djubba 

Tchasgur 

Don 

Yelek 

Kooshak 

Outchkoor 

Papoosh 

Mest 

Fez 

Benish 

Kurk 



These articles are worn also by Armenian women. 



s Attire, Old Costume. 

Shirt. 

Gown. 

Cloth or camlet robe. 

Trowsers. 

Linen drawers. 

Waistcoat. 

Waist shawl. 

Trouser girdle. 

Slippers. 

Yellow boots. 



Upper robe of cloth. 
Pelisse, or caftan. 

The Armenian dress of males is similar in all respects to that of 
Turks, save in the kalpak, in the slippers and boots being of dark crimson, 
and in the restriction to sombre colours. The Armenians also wear 
clumsy Tartar boots (djiemy), shod with iron cramps, in winter. 



192 DRESS AND FASHIONS. 

Little being known in Europe of the materials and 
component parts of Turkish ladies 1 dress, I will seek to 
describe tlicm as briefly and clearly as possible, and this 
in the order which custom indicates their adaptation to 

the person. 

1st. Giumlik, (shirts) are invariably made of the mixed 
cotton and woollen stuff called binmjnk. Formerly, the 
front was left open as far as the waist, and thus exposed 
more of nature's secrets than is accordant with European 
notions of propriety, notwithstanding the open-hearted 
candour of the lady of mature age and high degree, pre- 
viously mentioned. Uut the fashion has been modified, 
and the giumlik is now fastened at the throat by a 
diamond, pearl, or coral button, and closed over the chest 
with two or three similar ornaments. The sleeves are 
loose, and the whole is edged with satin. The lovely 
Balkis has the merit of having introduced this essential 
article of raiment. 

2. Dyslik are of calico, very wide, drawn close round 
the loins with an Outchkoor, and tied at the knee, whence 
their literal name (knee things). The use of cotton 
stockings is gradually spreading, but they are not com- 
mon, though the lower orders wear coarse worsted socks 
during winter. The vanity of some fair stocking- 
wearers having led them, when descending from arabas, 
to expose more of their ancles and superposed strata, 
than was considered correct, complaints on this score 
were made by sundry of the orthodox to the Sheikh 
Islam. This functionary, whose special duty it is to 
keep a watchful eye over Satan and his temptations, and 
to inculcate modestv and adherence to rules, issued a 
monitory firman in the spring of 1841. 

It was thereby notified to those of the fair sex who 



DRESS AND FASHIONS. 193 

might adopt superfluous innovations (stockings), that 
they were intended as additional coverings to the person, 
and not as pretexts for attracting impure eyes to forbidden 
regions. This firman was not more ridiculous than the 
police order of his Majesty the King of the Two Sicilies, 
enjoining all female opera dancers to clothe the upper 
portion of their nether persons in azure blue " knee- 
things." 

3rd. Shalwars are loose trowsers, nearly three yards 
wide at the waist, and diminishing to about eighteen 
inches at the extremity of the leg. They are drawn 
together and supported by an outchkoor, run through a 
broad hem, and richly embroidered at the ends. The 
extremities are fastened by loops below the knees, whence 
they fall in large folds over the ancles. Shalwars are 
made of various materials according to seasons, tastes, 
and fortunes. 

First-class Odaliks of the palace are celebrated for the 
splendour of their shalwars and indeed of their whole 
attire. The pieces of silk or brocade, called caftan, 
required for their shalwars and gown, and measuring 
eight yards, commonly cost from one thousand to one 
thousand five hundred piastres. Shalwars render the 
same service to Turkish and Armenian ladies as petticoats 
and slips to those of Europe. Flannel is never used, and 
thus there is no danger of the eye being incommoded by 
those prosaic, anti-rheumatic additions to English ladies' 
attire, the sickly extremities of which are too often 
observed to emerge from well-merited obscurity. 

4th. Entary (gowns) are most difficult to describe; 
the form, especially that of the skirt, being unlike any- 
thing within the range of European fancy. The back is 
closed and adheres tightly to the figure. The front is 

VOL. III. k 



19-1 DRESS AND FASHION , 

open, much cut away, and merely dosed by three <t four 
buttons at the waist ; the slee\ « - are tight from the shoul- 
der to below the elbow, and. being much longer than the 
arm, hang down and exhibit the sleeve of the ginmlik. 
The skirt is at Leatt two feet longer than the person, and 
is divided below the waist into three breadths, the end- 
of whieh are tucked up when walking and secured 
beneath the waist shawl. 

1'jitarys are made of the same materials as shalwars. 
and are lined with calico or silk, and trimmed with arj. 
They are worn at home and abroad, and, in spite of 
their singular conformation, have a graceful and earn? 
appearance. It is remarked by the bazar dealer-, that, 
whilst the dress of Turkish ladies becomes every day 
more simple, that of Armenian women improves in rich- 
ness. The most costly stuffs, native and foreign, ane 
purchased by the latter, while the former content them- 
selves with chintzes and cottons. This is partly ascribed 
to fashion; but the truth is, that a vast portion of the 
wealth of the capital has passed into the coffers of the 
Armenians; and Rayas, being new comparatively secure 
from confiscation and persecution, do not scruple to adorn 
their persons in a manner commensurate with their riches. 
The splendour of the Armenian ladies 1 toilet, at their 
marriage feasts and other ceremonies of rejoicing, cau- 
not be surpassed, albeit their taste is very questionable, 
and they are laughed at by Turkish women for their 
absence of art and fashion, as much as provincial women 
are criticised by the lionesses of Paris*. 

* Some of the dresses are exceedingly expensive; a piece (kaftan) of 
the article called kiamliadji, manufactured in the vicinity of Eyoub and 
Balat, costs as much as 40/. The Imperial Odaliks do not appear twice 
in the same dress before the Sultan, and, as their toilet is paid for by the 
civil list, the expense is heavy. The manufacture of kiamliadji is a 
monopoly reserved for the palace. 



DRESS AND FASHIONS. 195 

5. The kooshak is invariably of narrow shawl. It is 
fastened twice round the loins, and the ends are turned 
in, and rolled flat in front. The kooshak is a receptacle 
for pocket handkerchiefs, and sometimes for embroidered 
money bags. Few ladies wear watches, and none carry 
poniards. Fans are unknown and parasols rare. Both 
are replaced by yelpazy (hand-screens of feathers). The 
custom of tingeing the nails with henna has been aban- 
doned by ladies of quality, who have for the most part 
adopted thread-gloves. 

6. Tchipship are worn at home only. Yellow boots 
and slippers are reserved for going abroad. The customs 
attendant upon the use of these articles have been described 
when we visited the shoe market. 

7. Fotaza. The head-dress consists of two parts — the 
fez and yeminy (handkerchief). The former are of the 
finest felt, broad at top, and ornamented with a rich blue 
tassel, spread over the crown and falling a few inches 
down the back. The fez is set back on the head, and 
the crown is frequently ornamented with rays of dia- 
monds, rich embroidery, or coils of pearls. Yeminy are 
the coloured muslin handkerchiefs, called kalemkery, 
described elsewhere. They are doubled across the front 
of the fez, so that the double is attached over one ear, 
and the ends, fastened above the other, hang down a few 
inches. It is upon these yeminy that ladies affix dia- 
monds and other jewellery, worn in the hair by Europeans. 

Such are the principal portions of the female in-door 
attire, which is completed in winter by a kurk. 

Ferijees have been described. Yashmaks consist of 
two pieces of fine muslin. One of these is placed across 
the lower part of the face, so as to cover the chest, chin, 
mouth, and bridge of the nose, and is tied or pinned at 

k 2 



19o* DRESS. 

the back of the head. The other is drawn across the 
forehead, so as to conceal the eyebrows and the whole 
of the head, and, being pinned behind the ears, fella down 
the hack, beneath the ferijee. The yashmaks of Arme- 
nians are distinguished from those of Turks, by the for- 
mer being so put on as to show the whole nose but not 
the mouth. This distinction is imperative. U'ero 
Armenians to wear yashmaks over the nose, they would 
be subject to reprimand as dc»irous to pass tor Turkish 
ladies; and, were the latter to uncover this member, they 
would be mistaken for Armenians or something infinitely 
worse. In fact, none but the most unblushing portion 
of the sex ever infringe this custom*. 

Some trifling laxity upon these points had, however, 
been observed towards the commencement of 1841 i A 
firman was therefore iftsued and read in all mosijues, call- 
ing the attention of masters of families to this back- 
sliding. This firman, while it pointed out the sin of 
departing from those rules of propriety which form an 
integral portion of the religious code, also condemned the 
practice of shopping in Pera, where, as it was insinuated, 
the ladies were as much attracted by handsome infidel 
shopmen and others frequenting these magazines as by 
the goods exposed for sale. 

As female dress is intimately connected with marriage 
ceremonies, and forms a necessary adjunct to that impor- 
tant formality, I will offer some details respecting the 
latter. These will have the advantage of fidelity and 
perhaps of novelty. 

* Sir James Porter, in his observations on Turkish manners, says, 
seriatim, p. 283, " Some carry that custom (veiling the face), to such 
an extreme of delicacy, that, when they feed their poultry, if there be 
cocks among them, they will not appear without veils." 



MARRIAGE. 197 

The legal marriage (akd) may be considered rather as 
a civil than religious ceremony. Herein it resembles 
similar formalities in France and Belgium, where the 
nuptial benediction is regarded as a matter of conscience 
and not of legality. The ceremony at Constantinople 
consists in the reciprocal consent of both parties, strength- 
ened by certain written stipulations, rendered necessary 
by the facility of divorce, which is more easy to be 
obtained, if possible, than in Poland. The preliminaries 
of marriage, according to the strict letter of the code, are 
simple; but individual fancies, converted by custom into 
law, have rendered these simple practices extremely 
complicated and expensive. 

The middling and lower classes still adhere to ancient 
customs, less perhaps from inclination than from impos- 
sibility to afford the expense of more sumptuous solem- 
nities. But persons of higher quality are accustomed to 
give full scope to their vanity and love of display, and to 
signalise this eventful epoch of their children's existence, 
by all possible splendour and outlay. Parents and rela- 
tions on both sides take the greatest interest in all 
previous preparations, and, after repeated interchange of 
costly presents, the wedding (zitaf ) is celebrated by a 
grand dinner, given to male friends and connexions on 
the Thursday in the salamlyk, and on the Friday to the 
other sex in the harem, while open tables are kept 
below during the whole week for the poor of the quar- 
ter in which the bridegroom resides. Fortune, taste, or 
liberality, augment or restrain profusion and expense. 

The majority of Osmanlis attach so much importance 
to the early marriage of their children, that they some- 
times discuss and arrange these matters before the birth 
of the destined spouses. Mothers, whose sons have 



198 MARRIAGE CEREMONIES. 

scarcely attained their fifteenth year, can neither .sleep 
nor eat, until the latter are suitably disposed of; and 
the same anxiety is felt hv those who have marriageable 
daughters. This is the natural result of the retired life 
led by Turkish women, and is farther stimulated by a 
dread that their sons should be tempted to fall into flagi- 
tious habits, deplorably prevalent among the highest 
classes. 

Supposing that arrangements have not been previously 
made between friends or connexions for the union of 
their children, and that no suitable person has been 
pointed out as a wife, the mother of a marriageable 
vouth concerts with her husband, and sallies forth in 
search of a partner for her son, accompanied by some 
female friend or adroit slave. In order to attain her 
object, she attends public baths, wdicrc she cautiously 
examines the persons of young girls, and inquires into 
their fortunes, position, and expectations. If she fails 
there, she makes crafty inquiries among the gossips of 
different quarters, and causes her slaves to form ac- 
quaintance with those of houses where eligible matches 
may be found. In short, she spares no pains to obtain 
indirect information or personal knowledge of those 
young women whose position justifies further proceed- 
ings. 

Sometimes, indeed, mothers carry their artifices so 
far, that they avail themselves of sundry pretexts to 
obtain access into houses. Thus, at one time, they feign 
sudden illness, and, rapping at doors, earnestly request 
permission to repose. At other times they beg leave 
to enter a house in order to say their prayers, their own 
abode or a mosque being too distant for them to arrive 
for this duty within the canonical period. It is by 



MARRIAGE CEREMONIES. 199 

these and other artifices that they are enabled to obtain 
a sight of young ladies, and to examine appearances, 
whilst their slaves or companions are busily engaged in 
obtaining information from servants. 

An eligible person having been discovered, the young 
mans mother attires herself in her holyday garments, 
and, accompanied by the grandmother, if alive, proceeds 
in grand ceremony, called geureddjy, to see and propose 
in form for the girl's hand. Being admitted with due 
respect, she forthwith announces her object, and supports 
it with a detailed enumeration of her son's personal 
merits, fortune, and prospects. To this the girl's mother 
makes no immediate reply, but dismisses the applicant 
with many compliments, and a request for time that she 
may consult with her husband and relatives. In the 
course of eight or ten days a yengueh (confidential go- 
between) is despatched to receive the reply, and inter- 
mediate messengers are also employed to keep up the 
laudatory fire, and to prevent jealousies of neighbours or 
officious persons from spoiling the match. 

When the two parties agree, and the damsel's mother 
replies affirmatively, two male relatives are appointed on 
each side to discuss and fix the dowry (aghirlik), and 
furniture, including linen (djihaz), for the house of the 
future spouses. They likewise fix the day of betrothal 
(nishan), and also that of the civil marriage (nikyat). 
When the bride is destined to inhabit the house of the 
bridegroom, the betrothal takes place at the abode of the 
former, and the wedding at that of the latter ; but when 
the young man has no father or mother, all the ceremonies 
are performed at the bride's residence. As the first case 
offers more variety than the second we will follow its 
attendant ceremonies. 



200 MARRIAGE CEREMONIES. 

On the appointed day of betrothal, the father or 
guardian of the young man invites his nearest relations, 
most intimate friends, and the mayor (monkhtar) of the 
quarter, and regalea them with a succulent luncheon. 
This being despatched, one of the most respectable per- 
sons present, assisted by two friends, invites the young 
man to adjourn to a private apartment and exclaims, 
"Do you accept me as your vekil (proxy) in the forth- 
coming betrothal! 11 To this the youth replies " Please 
God! I do accept/"' — Thereupon the proxy turns to his 
two assistants and says, " Thou B and thou C be my 
shahid (witnesses).* 1 Woe betide the youth who selects 
his witnesses from the wags or young roisterers of the 
quarter, as these persons invariably exert all their 
ingenuity to disconcert the bridegroom, to fill his imagina- 
tion with stories of witchcraft and charms, employed to 
frustrate marriage vows and consummations, and to play 
sundry tricks calculated to alarm inexperienced persons. 
This preliminary settled, the whole party proceed to 
the future bride's house, in greater or less ceremony 
and number, according to the rank, fortune, or love of 
ostentation of the youth's parents. On arriving there 
they are met by the damsel's male substitute, witnesses, 
near relatives, and the imam of her quarter, who is pro- 
vided with a deed, containing the names of the parties, 
which has been already registered at the office of the 
municipal authorities. All being seated according to 
rank, pipes and coffee are presented, and soon afterwards 
cassolets filled with burning perfumes are brought in, 
the doors are closed, and the ceremony of betrothal 
commences. 

In the mean time, the bridegroom's mother, attended 
by numerous troops of female friends and gossips, has 



MARRIAGE CEREMONIES. 201 

arrived at the house, where she steps from her carriage 
upon rich stuffs (yaighy), laid down from the house door 
to the harem. These stuffs or carpets are forthwith 
picked up by her attendants, and appropriated by them 
as perquisites. Having taken her place, carpets or 
stuffs of equal richness are spread by her directions from 
the door to the divan where she is seated, in order that 
her future daughter-in-law may walk over them and 
approach to kiss her hand and receive the ring of 
betrothal. The second yaighy becomes the perquisite of 
the damsel's nurse, who supports her charge upon this 
occasion, and encourages her to advance with firmness, 
and to dry up her tears. It is considered highly decorous 
and in perfect good taste for the affianced girl to weep, 
lament, and feign extreme repugnance to a ceremony 
tending- to separate her from her family. 

Whilst this is passing in the harem, and the mother- 
in-law is seeking to comfort her future daughter with 
brilliant descriptions of domestic joys and worldly 
pleasures, the ceremony of betrothal is carried on in the 
salamlyk. The door being closed, the imam lays aside 
his pipe, rises, turns towards Mecca, and recites a short 
prayer. This being ended, he addresses the bridegroom's 
vekil, saying, " Do you, acting by proxy, and assisted by 
two witnesses, acknowledge A, son of B, as husband of 
C, daughter of DV To which the vekil replies, "I do 
acknowledge. 1 ' 

The imam then addresses a similar question inversely 
to the girl's proxy, and, having received an affirmative 
reply, the question and answer are repeated three times. 
This process may be considered as a condensation of our 
triple publication of marriage bans. At the end of the 
third response, which is uttered simultaneously by both 

k 3 



L'0'2 MARRIAGE CEREMONIES. 

vekils, the imam exclaims " Let C, daughter of D, there- 
fore be given, by proxy, as wife to A, son of B ; and A, 
son of B, be given as husband to 0, daughter of D. 11 

Both vekils then reply. ''We give." I'pon this, 
after a short pause, the imam takes up a pen. places his 
hand on tho contract and exclaims: — '* I hereby unite 
them in marriage (akd), and pray Almighty God that 
their union may be prosperous and happy as that of 
Adam and Eve; of Abraham and Sarah; of Joseph and 
Zuleikha; of onr holy Prophet and Khadija; and of Ali 
and Zebra* (Fatmeh). May the benediction of all- 
merciful and omnipotent God be upon them! Amen!" 
To this the bystanders echo, "Amen.!" and the parties 
are affianced. 

The last word is scarcely uttered ere one or more 
messengers mount their hones, and hapten to the houso 
of the bridegroom, who has remained at home, and has 
consequently taken no share in the ceremonies. He is 
prepared, however, with a well-filled purse, for the first 
messenger that arrives, as a mujda (good news gift) in 
return for the tidings of the completion of the betrothal. 

"When the imam ha- signed the marriage contract, of 
which the original is deposited at tho mayoralty of the 
quarter, the bride's father claps his hands, and his 
servants enter and distribute various presents (verguy) 
to all persons who have assisted at the ceremony, to 
their attendants, and to his own menials. These consist 
of shawls, pieces of cloth, yeminy or kalemker, and 
tchevra (painted or embroidered handkerchiefs). These 
presents, distributed, according to the rank of those 
receiving them, have, however, been forestalled by the 
bridegroom^ father, who, on the evening preceding the 

* The Venus, or incomparable beauty of Musselmans. 



MARRIAGE CEREMONIES. 203 

nikyah, sends to the bride's house the present in money 
called aghirlyk (baggage-money), varying from five to 
twenty thousand piastres in gold. This is offered in the 
name of the son-in-law to the damsel's father, who is 
supposed to procure his daughter's furniture and linen 
out of this sum; so, in fact, the husband's and not the 
wife's family purchase furniture and accessories. 

About two hours after the betrothal, some elderly lady 
connected with the bride, or perhaps her nurse, arrives 
at the bridegroom's house in quality of yengueh (bride's 
woman or commissioner) and presents to him the offer- 
ing, called nishan bokdjassy, containing a fine shawl, 
a chemise, two handkerchiefs embroidered with pearls, a 
pair of braces similarly embroidered, and an inlaid box 
of mother-of-pearl and tortoise-shell filled with sugar- 
candy — all enveloped in a napkin (havloo) embroidered 
with silk and gold. The yengueh receives a proportion- 
ate present in return, and, on the third morning of the 
betrothal, the bridegroom never fails to send to his bride 
a present called yanik, consisting of sweetmeats, flowers, 
and fruit. In return for this he also in general receives 
on the following morning a yanik, composed of cold 
meats, pastry, preserves, and highly seasoned dishes of 
poultry. 

On the same day, the bridegroom, whom for form's sake 
we will name Bulbul, sends to his bride, whom we will 
intitle Gul, a present called nishan takimy, consisting of 
five trays, each carried upon a man servant's head, under 
the guidance of the yengueh kadinn (envoy or commis- 
sioner). 

The first tray contains a pair of tchipship (house 
slippers) of crimson, blue, purple, or black velvet, em- 
broidered in pearls, and costing from three hundred to 



204 MARRIAGE CEREMONIES. 

four thousand piastres, for Gul — as many pair of cloth 
dippers, embroidered in gold, as Gul has relatives, each 
costing from two hundred to three hundred piastres, and 
if GuTg mother be aged, or her grandmother alive, her 
tchipship ought to cost at least five hundred; as many 
pair of terlik (yellow hoots) as there are female servants 
in the bride's house; a band-mirror in silver ease, some- 
times studded with brilliants, and a silver filagree box 
for bon bons or pastilles. The second tray is loaded with 
\.;-es of rare flower-; the third with the dearest fruits in 
season; tin- fourth with bottles of the most esteemed 
syrups, boxes of sugar-plums, coffee, several pounds of 
coloured wax candles, and three or four little leather 
bags of the finest Mecca henna. The fifth tray is spread 
with various rich stuffs for l'hwiis and shalwars; a pair 
of naelin, inlaid with mother-of-pearl, the straps embroi- 
dered with pearls; a small silver basin; and some fine 
tortoise-shell, or ivory combs*. Each tray is carefully 
folded in an embroidered napkin, and is received with 
great curiosity and respect at the harem entrance by 
the slaves of the family, and the envoy invariably 
receives a handsome present of money. 

On the same day. the bride's djihaz (wedding furni- 
ture) is transported in several arabas to BulbuTs abode, 
accompanied by her askidjys, who forthwith begin to 
decorate the nuptial chamber. In the first arabas are 
placed carpets, mats, divans, cushions, chandeliers, &c. 
The rest are loaded with mattresses, quilts, wearing 
apparel, in baskets or boxes, and a complete dinner 
service, with kitchen apparatus and utensils required for 

* The heart of hippopotamus tooth, imported from upper Egypt, is now 
mueh prized as a substitute for ivory, especially for pipe mouth-pieces; 
but it has the disadvantage of quickly losing colour. 



MARRIAGE CEREMONIES. 205 

abdest (ablution), that is to say, twelve covered dishes, 
and two soup terrines of copper gilt, or fine pewter, 
several copper kettles and saucepans; plates, cups, 
bottles, and other articles of glass and crockery; spoons, 
candelabra, snuffers, fire-tongs or pincers, lamps, warming 
pans, ibriks and layan (metal ewers and basins); to 
which are added abundance of towels, napkins, and 
bathing cloths, footas (silk aprons) such as are worn by 
bathing attendants and servants, and so on ad infini- 
tum. 

These articles compose what is termed in France the 
trousseau. Should Beiram or other solemnities intervene 
between the ceremony of nikyah (betrothal) and that of 
zifat (marriage), presents of linen, silks, and other stuffs 
are exchanged between Bulbul and Gul; and, on the 
Tuesday morning preceding the marriage, generally con- 
summated on a Thursday, the former is expected to 
crown his liberality by sending to the latter two or three 
trays or baskets containing a supply of sweetmeats, 
wax-candles, fruits, sherbet, and henna, and one or more 
embroidered bags filled with gold coins. 

On the same day (Tuesday) Gul is subjected to the 
severe process of a bath toilet. When parents have baths 
at their own houses, they and the bride are spared ex- 
pense and publicity; but, as private baths are exceptions, 
and many families prefer the ostentatious process of the 
public hammam, the latter are generally selected. On the 
arrival of Gul and her friends in the vestiary (djama- 
keean) of the bath, where she has probably performed 
entire ablutions from childhood, and the oosta (head 
bathing woman) of which has been her weekly hair- 
dresser for fourteen or fifteen years, this important per- 
sonage seizes her victim, divests her of her garments, and 



LUG MARRIAGE CEREMONIES. 

replaces them by the rich silken bathing-cloths, forming 
part of the nuptial presents*. 

When all is ready, and the ladies attending are pro- 
perly attired, Gul slips her feet into ornamented naelin, 
and is supported into the heated chambers, where she is 
subjected to a threefold process of maceration, shampoo- 
ing, soaping, rubbing with depilatory paste, perfuming* 
and scaldiiiLT, which to uninitiated persons appear to bo 
painful and almost insupportable, but are regarded as 
most pleasurable sensations by Turkish and Armenian 
ladies. 

Seated beside one of the small marble fountains that 
ornament the Malls of the innermost and hottest bath- 
intr-room, Gul remains between two and three hours 
under the oosta's hands, until, her hair having been care- 
fully prepared, and her person declared to exceed in 
purity those of the virgins of Paradise, she is enveloped 
in richly-embroidered cloths, and carried back into the 
second or cool chamber. Here she is offered refresh- 
ments, and begins to recover. After half an hour's 
repose, during which her hair is entwined with strings 
of pearls and gold beads or coins, fresh warm cloths are 
wound around her, and she is assisted to return to the 
vestiary, where a band of gipsy musicians hail her en- 
trance. Here the oosta and bathing attendants conduct 
her to a sort of throne adorned with coloured gauze, 
satin ribbons, and gilt paper, placed within the railed 
and elevated gallery, where the hammamjee (directress of 
the bath) is always seated, in order that she may keep a 

• The generality of Turkish women do not untie, or comh out their 
hair more than once a week, that is, on Thursdays. One of the great 
merits of the oosta is to unravel and eomh out the hair, without injury 
or annoyance — sometimes a long process. 



MARRIAGE CEREMONIES. 20 7 

watchful eye upon bathers and maintain order. In the 
mean time, all persons invited place themselves upon the 
couches of the surrounding galleries, and their slaves 
wait in the area beneath. 

If Gul be not too exhausted to support the fatigue, 
she is regaled with a sort of dramatic representation, 
generally that called Koorsan Kizy (the Knight's 
Daughter*), during which refreshments are abundantly 
supplied to all present, and handfuls of money are distri- 
buted among the bathing attendants. During the acts 
of the play, the principal tchingany (gipsy) actress, who 
performs the part of the knight of Malta, presents her 
shield (the lid of an old kettle) to Gul, who throws into 
it a few pieces of gold and handfuls of sugar-plums, ad- 
miring the while the knight's costume, which generally 
consists of a Frank hat without crown, a wooden sabre, 
a pair of Kurdish yellow boots, shalwars tucked up to 
the knees, and an old Salto Marco, with red worsted 
waist-girdle, in which are thrust a ladle and wooden 
spoons to represent arms. 

Towards sunset-prayer, the oosta puts the last stroke 
to GuFs toilet. This consists in tingeing her finger-nails 
with henna, in smoothing down her eyebrows with per- 
fumed collyrium, and in arranging the long tresses des- 
tined to hang down her shoulders for the last time in 
virginal profusion. This part of the ceremony or rather 
period of time is called henna guedjessy (henna even- 
ing). Although the use of henna is generally exploded, 

* A knight of Malta is supposed to be passing from terra firma to the 
island with his wife (!) and daughter. They are attacked by a Turkish 
corsair, which of course captures the Christian ship. The knight joyfully 
embraces Islam, while his daughter embraces their conqueror, of whom 
she becomes enamoured at first sight. 



208 MARRIAGE CEREMONIES. 

bathing women and nurses insist upon adhering to the 
ceremony of smearing the bride's lingers on the bath- 
day, as it is customary for the patient and for all persons 
invited to distribute pieces of gold, called " henna gifl 
among the attendants. Night being at hand, and the 
ceremonies and pleasures being exhausted, the whole 
party withdraws to the bride's house, where they are re- 
galed with supper and music, and do not retire to rest 
until a late hour. 

Wednesday is a day of repose, but day has scarcely 
dawned on Thursday, and (Jul has barely had time to 
Bay morning prayer, before her mother, nurse, and ser- 
vants, seize upon her, and commence what is termed 
yooz yn/.y^y (face-writing) or toilet. Her person is 
attired in costly brocades, silks, velvets, and shawls; 
pearl-embroidered slippers adorn her feet ; her head 
handkerchief and fes are studded with brilliants, set in 
various devices; heavy diamond pendants glitter in her 
cars; strings of pearls are coiled round her neck, from 
which more than one amulet is suspended; and her 
wrists and lingers are decorated with bracelets and 
jewelled rings. 

Nothing then remains but to affix two feather-aigrettes 
to the front of the head-dress, to fasten a ribbon or thin 
silken cravat round her neck, and to touch her cheeks 
with the requisite quantity of white and rouge, as an 
accompaniment to the black dye with which the bath 
women had tinged her eyebrows. This "face-writing' 1 
being completed, Gul receives the compliments of her 
female friends, and regales herself and them with sweet- 
meats, until the rattling of small kettle-drums in the 
street announces the arrival of the bridal party, sent to 
convey her to her future abode. Let us leave her while 
we return to Bulbul. 



MARRIAGE CEREMONIES. 209 

Lost in speculation as to the personal charms and cha- 
racter of the unknown personage to whom his parents 
have thought proper to unite his destinies, Bulbul pro- 
ceeds incognito on the Tuesday to some public bath. 
There, without disclosing the important event about to 
occur, he directs the bath waiters to be more than usually 
attentive to their duties. Having submitted to razors, 
depilatory paste, and tweezers, and being sufficiently 
shampooed, perfumed, and reposed, he returns slowly to 
his own house, where he proceeds to examine the nuptial 
chamber, and to confer the expected present upon the 
askidjees, who by this time have finished their duties. 
These consist in covering the walls with draperies of 
brocade and silk ; in ornamenting the windows and 
panels with verdant branches, festooned with shawls, 
coloured gauze, and muslin; in fastening to the ceiling 
shawls, garlands of artificial flowers, and double glass 
vases, the inner portion containing stuffed tropical birds, 
and the outer gold and silver fish in water. 

In addition to these decorations, a kind of throne or 
dais is arranged at the upper end of the room, with 
shawls and various rich stuffs, as a seat of honour for 
the bride, and care is taken not to omit an efficacious 
charm against the evil eye. This consists of a large 
piece of alum placed in a scarlet or crimson handker- 
chief. This charm is often suspended immediately over 
the entrance, and is left for several years, until the 
husband, tired perhaps of his wife's charms, becomes 
reckless of those that may guard her from the bad 
eye*. 

We, Christians, scoff at these superstitions, but do we not see daily 
instances of similar fancies among ourselves ? Look, for instance, at those 
who dress up their children from head to foot in white, and call it 



J 10 MARRIAGE CEREMONIES. 

On the day following ( Wednesday), Bulbul's father 
gives a dinner of ceremony to his friends and imobI 
ance of highest decree. ( )n Thursday he r all 

the quarter with a public breakfast, and on the eveni 
of the same day he invites to supper all near relation* 
and intimates. These :• .-- are invariably pi by 

sacrifices of sheep, lambs, and kids, a portion of which 
is eaten at home, and the n -tributed anion? the 

poor. From twenty to fifty animals are An frequently 
slaughtered and grren away in charity. 

The eventful Thursday having at length arrive 1. and 
all preliminaries being accomplished on both - 
Bulbul's mother leaves her son and husband at home, 
embarks in a cotchy or araba fur G - . . . prece 
by her son's relatives and friends on h .. and 

followed by several veh. ntaininc one or 

more female relations. The procession, sometimes con- 
- -:m? of fifty carr: _ - many horsemen, with 

their grooms on foot, has no sooner reached Gul's house 
than the ladies - ad into the harem, and the men into 
the salamlyk, where they are immediately sen I with 
refreshmer 

This collation being terminated, the whole party 
return to their vehicles and horses, and an empty oetcfay 
is driven to the foot of the vestibule - -.In the 
meantime. Gul bids adieu to her mother and sisters, and, 
tearing h from their embraces, gives her hand to 

her father, who leads his weeping child to the foot of 
the stairs, where he folds round her waist the nuptial 
shawl or girdle, and each of her relatives scatters hand- 

"' devoting them to the Virgin,"' a^ if outward colour could affect their 
inward existence. Let them read the words of our Saviour, recorded by 
St. Mark, c. vii. 



MARRIAGE CEREMONIES. 211 

fuls of money, (twenty para pieces.) symbols of abun- 
dance, over her head. These coins are the perquisites of 
the poor women of the quarter, who crowd around and 
scramble desperately for them. Deviating from the 
custom observed on all other occasions, the bride has 
neither yashmak nor ferijee; their places are supplied by 
a loose gold-embroidered veil, which conceals her whole 
person*. 

The scramble being Terminated, Gul is assisted into 
the carriage, where she takes her seat accompanied by 
her yengueh (brides woman), whilst her mother enters 
another carriage with BulbuFs mother. The signal for 
departure is given, and the procession slowly rolls over 
the disjointed pavement. The front of each vehicle is 
now ornamented with a piece of cloth or embroidered 
stuff, the perquisite of the arabajee. The vekils and 
witnesses, who ride in front, also wear silk-scarfs, which 
play the same part in wedding ceremonies as u favours*'' 
in England. The only music permitted is that of one 
or more gipsies, who carry small mushroom-shaped 
drums, suspended from their necks, wear conical caps 
with bells and feathers on their heads, and, half-dancing, 
half- walking, importune passers-by for money. 

Upon reaching the bridal house, the first carriage, 
containing Gul and her attendant, enters the vestibule, 
already crowded by the women of the quarter. Bulbul is 
no sooner apprized of its approach than he hastens to the 
foot of the stairs, and assists the bride to alight. This 
he does, by placing his left hand under her right arm, 
and supporting her in this manner until she reaches the 
nuptial chamber, while he scatters handfuls of small 

* When Armenian women are married, their veil consists of strings or 
strips of gold, covering or thatching the person from head to foot. 



212 MARRIAGE CEREMONIES. 

coin with his right hand among the women who crow 1 
the harem stairs. Orthodoxly speaking, Bulbnl ought 
to press the right hand of his bride, as a gentle hint that 
he intends to exercise supreme authority ; but cases 
have occurred where Gul, taking the initiative, has 
thereby given precocious evidence of a determination not 
to submit without a struggle. Where such inversion of 
lordly symbols is exhibited, Bulbul generally resigns 
himself to indispensable rule, or, as we might call it, the 
rule of indispensables. 

Bulbul having thus conducted his submissive or im- 
perative Gul to the scat of honour, forthwith retires, and 
in a moment all the women of the quarter pour into the 
room, to visit and compliment the guelin (bride) ; never 
for the purpose of ill-natured go-sip and jealous criti- 
cism, as they declare; albeit they could not avoid re- 
marking that, " the young khanum's hair was of a pale 
colour, her eyebrows narrow*, her lashes scanty, her 
forehead broad and colourless, her check-bones pro- 
minent," and, oh ! the greatest defect in universal 
woman's eye, "her dress gaudy, and yet tasteless and 
ill-fashioned." To this ordeal the unfortunate Gul must 
submit during many hours, filling her visitors 1 mouths 
and her own ever and anon with sugar-plums; but not 
venturing to lift up her eyes, lest that should be con- 
strued into boldness and lack of modesty. 

About the hour that female visitors take their leave 
of the guelin and her mother-in-law, the men invited 
to the wedding-feast commence assembling in the sa- 
lamlyk ; and no sooner is sunset-prayer announced 

* What are called finely pencilled eyebrows are looked upon as 
defects. To their taste, the brows cannot be too broad or strongly 
furnished. 



MARRIAGE CEREMONIES. 213 

than tables and trays are brought in, ablutions are per- 
formed, and the soup is served. The repast, consisting 
of an infinite variety of dishes, is prolonged for more 
than an hour, when the time for the fifth prayer ap- 
proaches. This prayer, which includes that employed 
as a nuptial benediction, is not said without many pre- 
fatory gibes and witticisms on the part of the young 
men, at the expense of the bridegroom. Bulbul is com- 
pelled to endure patiently all that may be said, and to 
restrain his impatience to join his Gul until this duty is 
performed, under the direction of the imam of the 
quarter, who is invited less as a necessary appendage 
than as a compliment to an old friend and magistrate. 
The namaz, which naturally appears of extraordinary 
length to the bridegroom, being ended, Bulbul rises, and, 
having kissed the hand of his father, tutor, and all 
elderly persons present, makes his escape through the 
antechamber to the harem-door, where, having paused 
awhile to collect courage, he hastens to the apartment 
of his young bride, and finds her seated upon her throne, 
attended by her yengueh kadinn. 

But ere the anxious Bulbul can join them, and for the 
first time raise the envious veil, which still conceals his 
destiny, he has an important duty to perform. He must 
repeat a prayer, consisting of two rikatts of eight changes 
of position each, and this slowly withal. Through the 
care of his mother, a praying carpet has been placed near 
the door, and in the proper direction. Upon this he 
steps barefooted, and, without having looked upon his 
wife, slowly and orthodoxly terminates this namaz, which 
is regarded as one of the most acceptable that can be 
addressed to the Almighty upon this solemn occasion. 

Having at length finished, he advances towards the 



214 MARRIAGE CEREMONIES. 

upper end of the chamber. On this the yengueh kadinu 
rises, and, holding the hand of Gal, conducts her a few 
paces towards the husband. Then, having placed the 
hand of the former in that of the latter, the yengueh 
utters a benediction and withdraws. Now commences 
a most embarrassing and anxious moment for Bulbul ; far, 
in spite of the words of the Prophet*, he has never been 
allowed a glimpse of his veiled partner, and is as ignorant 
of her outward person as of her mural qualities. 

It is his first duty to lead her back to her scat, and to 
raise her veil with his kit hand, whilst he retains her 
trembling fingers with his right. He is then required to 
commence conversation, and to endeavour to place his 
bride as much at her ease as if they had been old 
acquaintances. In order, however, to assist him in his 
exertions, and to dive rsify this formidable dialogue, Gul 
gives a signal with her hands, and her slaves appear with 
a pipe, coffee, and light collation. Both partake of the 
latter, and it is the essential duty of Bulbul to select the 
choicest morsels, and to present them, with his own 
fingers, to his fair partner. This supper is no sooner 
removed than Gul retires to prepare her night toilet. But 
we have already exceeded all limits, so let us wish her 
and Bulbul good night, and many years of enjoyment. 

Such are the principal marriage ceremonies, as prac- 
tised at the present day by those who pride themselves 
upon the observance of zarafat (fashion or bon ton). 

Before taking leave of the subject, the following cir- 
cumstance may be mentioned in proof of the rigid seve- 

" On being asked by one of his disciples whether it was lawful for 
those about to be married to look at their future partners, Mohammed 
replied, "Look at her, in order that you may enjoy a foretaste of the 
satisfaction you will enjoy from living together in peace and unity. " 



MARRIAGE CEREMONIES. 215 

rity of the law, which forbids men to look upon the 
unveiled faces of women, or even to enter the harem of 
their nearest connexions. 

Emin Bey, colonel of engineers, and Dervish Effendi, 
professor of natural philosophy at Galata Serai, both 
studied in Europe and principally in England, where 
they laid the foundation for those acquirements that will 
probably raise them to high distinction in their respective 
departments. These two young men married two sisters, 
both girls of good education, daughters of the Hekim 
Bashy. The two husbands not being over rich, and their 
young wives not having any immediate dowry, the bro- 
thers-in-law determined to inhabit the same house and 
to share expenses. 

This proposition being agreed to by the families, a good 
house was selected, containing two commodious suites of 
apartments. Here the two couple settled themselves, 
and placed their establishment under the superintendence 
of the Professor's widowed mother. Now it might be 
supposed that two such near connexions, living under the 
same roof, uniting purses, and having almost all interests 
in common, would join together in domestic sociality, 
and form as it were one family. But this is not the case. 
The two sisters inhabit the same sitting-room in the 
harem, and the two men divide the same apartment in 
the salamlyk; but each wife has her distinct chambers, 
into which the husband of the other never enters, so 
that Dervish Effendy has never set eyes on the unveiled 
face of his sister-in-law, and Emin Bey has never looked 
upon the uncovered features of his brother-in-law's wife. 
Thus the two ladies are as complete strangers to their 
respective brothers-in-law as if they were living under 
distinct roofs. 



21 G SHAWL MENDERS. 

After quitting the dealers in shalwars and entarys, the 
street widens, and the roof is supported hy twelve stone 
pillars, under which is stationed an officer's guard of infan- 
try. From this spot, called Dooa Maidany (Prayer 
Place), because it served for a mosque in former days, a 
multitude of crowded alleys diverge towards the Bezes- 
tan of Arms and Goldsmiths' 1 Market. These streets 
are tenanted by an infinity of trades, branches of those 
already enumerated. 

Continuing our progress through Ozoon Tcharsshy, the 
most frequented and busy thoroughfare of the city, we 
pass a variety of shops tenanted by dealers in embroi- 
deries, printed cottons, linens, waist-girdles, and tobacco 
bags. This street is more calculated to surprise and 
gratify strangers than any other within the range of the 
Bazars. From 8 a.m., when the shopkeepers commence 
lifting up the boards of their stalls, and spreading out their 
glittering wares, until near sun-down prayer, when they 
withdraw to their private abodes, this market is crowded 
with busy passengers and purchasers of all nations. Its 
sides are draped and festooned with the choicest pro- 
ductions of eastern and western industry, and its shop- 
boards are occupied with dealers, for the most part Ar- 
menians, who clamorously attempt to attract notice to 
their merchandize. The long arched vista on either side 
is not less brilliant than animated and original. Its 
principal defect is want of light — a deficiency that the 
dealers are not over-anxious to supply, as it seems 
in some measure to veil the defects of goods and 
colours. 

Among the most prominent articles for sale are the 
cheap imitation shawl goods of Europe, both cotton and 
woollen, which find ready purchasers, and are now in 



SHAWL MENDERS. 217 

general use among the middling and lower classes for 
turban-binders, girdles, and entary. 

The last forty yards of this Long Market near Meijian 
Yolly is also interesting, from its being tenanted by urged- 
jee (shawl-menders), whose business it is to repair and 
clean old shawls, and to unite or add borders to new ones. 
By selecting threads or small patches from the numerous 
rags and strips of Persian, Cashmere, or Indian shawls, 
of which remnants they have always a large store, these 
ingenious workmen darn, unite, border, and renovate 
shawls of all kinds, so as to render them apparently of 
one piece, or comparatively new. The dexterity of the 
Cashmere and Lahore workmen in uniting the different 
portions of shawls, when they first come from the loom, 
and thus giving to them the appearance of having been 
woven entire, is well imitated by the Turkish urgedjee. 
They will darn, adjust morsels, and add borders so 
dexterously, that the defects are scarcely perceptible; and 
they have, moreover, a mode of washing and cleaning 
shawls with vegetable soap and rice paste which far 
exceeds the skill of European scourers. 

Lahore, Cashmere, and India shawls of all kinds, the 
prices of which are a third higher than in London or 
Paris, with infinitely less variety, are always imported 
entire. This is also the case with Kerman or other 
Persian shawls of first quality; but secondary articles are 
brought from Persia in two pieces, and are either sold 
disjointed by the Persian dealers, or given to the shawl- 
menders to unite. Persons desirous to purchase the 
common long Persian shawls, without borders or termi- 
nating palms, may procure them at Constantinople at 
from five hundred to twelve hundred piastres. They are 
worn by all Greek women in the European fashion, and 

VOL. III. L 



218 SHAWL MENDERS. 

by Armenians and Turks as waist-girdles, or to throw 
over the head in cold weather. 

It is not at Constantinople, however, that handsomo 
India shawls are met with, or, if found, purchased 
cheaply. The stock of one of our eminent dealers in 
London is more varied, and more accessible to moderate 
purses, than those of all Stambol united. The disuse of 
the old costume has diminished demand and importation; 
and the greater part of those which now reach the city 
are cither the refuse of the Persian markets, or arrive in 
the Bosphorus from the Russian frontier, where the 
greater part have been refused by Moscovitc dealers*. 

* It is contrary to all established rules for authors to allude to their 
own productions. I will nevertheless venture to recommend those curi- 
ous in shawls to read some portion of a fiction entitled " The Cashim to 
Shawl," in which the history and manufacture of sua wis is treated, some- 
what too diffusely, perhaps, but with great fidelity; unless, indeed, the 
testimony of all travellers, merchants, and manufacturers, be untrue. 



ESKY SERAI. 



219 




K1Z-TASHY (COLUMN OF MARCIAN, CALLED VIRGIN'S STONE). 



CHAPTER VI. 

OLD SERAGLIO; SULEIMANYA; DEALERS IN OPIUM 
AND PHILTRES; BARBERS, CIRCUMCISERS, AND 
CEREMONIES OF CIRCUMCISION; AQUEDUCT OF 
VALENS; STREET OF COLUMNS; ET MAID ANY; 
SADDLERS AND SADDLERY. 

We have now terminated our description of the most 
conspicuous trades carried on within the internal precincts 
of the bazars ; but others of equal interest remain to be 
noticed. To reach these we must quit Ozoon Tcharsshy 

Li — 



220 ESKY SERAI. 

by the gate marked C in the plan, and, ascending Coral- 
street, pass underneath the lofty walls of Esky Serai, 
until we reach the square in which is the grand entrance 
to the war-office (Serasker Kapoossy). 

It would be interesting to trace the mutations of the 
vast inclosure contained within the massive walls, during 
the two great epochs of its history, that is, first from 
the period of its consecration as a forum by Theodosius 
(a.d. 393) to the Moslem conquest, in 1453, when Mo- 
hammed II. directed the open space to be encircled with 
walls, and therein founded the palace and gardens, 
where he took up his residence : 2nd, from the latter 
period to the year 1826, when, upon the extirpation of the 
Janissaries, and the re-modelling of the Imperial Court 
and Ministry, Mahmoud II. pulled down the greater 
part of the buildings, and converted them into an official 
residence for the Serasker (commander-in-chief). 

The appellation of Esky (old) Serai, which it retained 
during nearly four centuries, was given to it soon after 
its first construction, in contradistinction to Yeny (new) 
Serai, the great Seraglio, which Mohammed II. com- 
menced building, a.d. 1467, upon the site of the ancient 
palace, or assemblage of palaces, erected by various 
Byzantine monarchs, and inhabited by them until the 
fall of the Lower Empire. At present, the inclosure 
within the walls, which latter retain their original form, 
contains the official residence and offices of the Serasker 
and general staff; a fine parade ground, whereon three 
battalions can manoeuvre ; a barrack for five thousand 
men; a new military hospital, containing four hundred 
beds ; a barrack for the Cavass, attached to the Serasker, 
in his quality of military governor and police director 
inter micros ; a prison for delinquents summarily arrested 



ESKY SERAI. 221 

or condemned to hard labour in tin's vicinity ; a covered 
shed for a battery of eight pieces, employed for firing 
salutes ; and, finally, the lofty tower, in the upper cham- 
ber of which watchmen are placed, for the same purpose 
as those stationed in Galata Tower*. 

The tedium of the fire-watchers 1 lives must be much 
diminished, if they possess the taste for picturesque and 
noble prospects, that characterises the generality of 
Osmanlis. Admirable as may be the views seen from 
Galata Tower, they are far surpassed in splendour by those 
that extend far and wide beneath the spectator, when 
standing in the watchman's chamber of the Serasker's 
Tower, which crowns the plateau of the third hill, the 
loftiest of the whole ridge. 

From the period that the imperial court removed 
from Yeny Serai, down to the accession of Mahmoud II., 
Esky Serai was reserved as a residence for the kadinns 
and principal female slaves of defunct sultans. Here 
also were immured many of the imperial children, who, 
with the exception of a few females given in marriage, 
never quitted its precincts. The multitude of small 
coffins, marking the burial-place of young princes and 
princesses in the imperial toorbas, furnish sufficient 
evidence of the fate attendant upon the offspring of de- 
ceased monarchs. These proofs of mortality would be 
decupled most probably, were it customary to bury new- 
born infants in these repositories. Holding in just horror 

* When fires occur during the day, a large red ball is hoisted outside 
the gallery of the tower; when discovered at night, lanterns are exposed 
as conventional signals to the various guard-houses and firemen. The 
quarter in which the fire takes place being thus known, the batteries 
forthwith discharge a regulated number of guns; and the whole city and 
suburbs being thus apprized, watchmen, firemen, and guards, repair to 
the spot. 



222 ESKY SERAI. 

the murders of his cousin Selim III. and of his brother, 
committed in the Seraglio, Mahmoud II. abandoned that 
residence, and appointed it as a place of abode for the 
kadinns and slaves of his last two predecessors, who died 
without issue. Some of these women, who were sup- 
posed to have aided in the death of Selim, were, it is 
said, summarily disposed of; the rest died a natural 
death, or are still living within these mysterious and ex- 
tensive precincts. Upon the deatli of Mahmoud, his 
young unmarried family were removed by their elder 
brother, Sultan Abdoul Med j id, to his palace, and were 
there carefully and tenderly educated. At the same time, 
the four surviving kadinns of Mahmoud were established 
in palaces on the Bosphorus, two near Beglerbey, and 
two near Tehcraghan, where they enjoy full liberty. 

It lias been already said, that the murderous Seraglio 
law, which condemns collateral issue to death, has lately 
been enforced, in spite of the humane character of the 
young Sultan The press of Europe, moved by just 
sentiments of indignation, has fulminated against this 
inhuman practice. The echo of its powerful and warn- 
ing voice has reached the ears of the Porte, and found 
sympathy in the breasts of numerous enlightened Os- 
manlis. The Sultan's ministers are aware that they can 
no longer brave with impunity the sacred laws of 
humanity. If Turkey be admitted into the common 
bond of European nations, its sovereign must abstain 
from acts, as injurious to his own political welfare 
as they are contrary to divine and human legisla- 
tion. If he continue to offend civilization, he cannot 
expect to participate in its benefits; and the outcries of 
insulted humanity will prove more powerful than the 
appeals of that political necessity, which may be said to 



SULEIMANYA. 223 

constitute the sole guarantee of Turkish existence, its 
sole safeguard against the dangerous projects of France 
and Russia. 

Leaving the stationers 1 and ink-venders 1 shops to the 
left, and passing under the southern wall of the Seras- 
keriat, a long street, occupied on one side by commo- 
dious mansions, leads to the mosque of Suleiman. In the 
centre of this street are the imperial printing offices, a 
portion of which are devoted to the production of the 
official Turkish Journal, and its feeble reflection, the 
Moniteur Ottoman. 

On entering the outer court of the Suleimanya by the 
south-eastern gate, a green wicket is perceived in front. 
This wicket leads into a paved alley, overshadowed with 
vines, cypresses, and clematis. This alley intersects the 
garden and principal burying ground of the mosque, 
from south to north. In this garden, now well stocked 
with vegetables, redolent of flowery perfumes, and 
enlivened by the carols of many birds, three toorbas are 
erected. 

The first is the noble mausoleum of the founder, an 
octangular building of various-coloured marbles, in the 
florid Saracenic style. Here repose the great Suleiman 
and two of his successors, Suleiman II. and Achmet II., 
whose huge sandooka are ornamented with rich embroi- 
deries, and distinguished by the Mujavezza turban, 
introduced by " the Magnificent*. 11 

Southward of this, amidst a grove of cypresses, is the 
less brilliantmausoleumof Suleiman's celebrated favourite, 
the ambitious Churem (Roxalana), mother of Selim II. 

North of the grand mausoleum is the third toorba, a 

* An explanation of these and all other turhans will be found in our 
last chapter. 



224 . SULEIMAN Y A. 

mean and gloomy edifice, unworthy of its neighbourhood. 
It contains the neglected biers of Prince Mohammed, a 
younger son of Suleiman, and two of his daughters. 
The grave-yard contiguous to these toorbas is crowded 
with tombs, recording the demise of many illustrious 
vizirs, Oolema and learned men of the sixteenth and 
seventeenth centuries. By a singular coincidence, a 
stately bay tree, bursting through the stone fetters of 
one of these tombs, shoots upward from the very breast 
of a mufty, alike distinguished for his piety and love of 
letters; thus forming an evergreen crown more durable 
than the laudatory epitaph now nearly effaced from the 
fractured marble*. 

At the north-east angle of the vast outer court of the 
Suleimanva is a small postern, facing the grand entrance 
to Sheikh Islam Kapoossy, the official residence of that 
grand dignitary. This building, which forms a promi- 
nent object from the harbour and suburbs, also contains 
the Arz Odassy (hall of revision), the tribunal of the 
Sheikh Islam, and those of the Cazi Askers of Koomelia 
and Anatolia. It may, therefore, be assimilated to the 
Parisian Palace of Justice. This palace, painted green, 
exceptionally, is of vast extent, and is divided into an 
infinity of halls of justice, all open to the public, and all 
dependent upon the supreme council, which holds its 
sittings in one of these halls. It is asserted by d'Ohsson 
and other authors that there is no appeal from first 
judgments in Turkey. This is badly explained, or 
erroneous. There is certainly no appeal, where suits, as 



* An oval space is always left open in the horizontal slab placed over 
tombs. In this space shrubs or flowers are planted. The bay tree in 
question owes its existence to this pleasing custom. 



COURT OF APPEAL. 225 

it sometimes occurs, are instituted ab initio in the high- 
est tribunals — that, for instance, of the supreme council 
— unless it be to the legalizing opinion of the Sheikh 
Islam, who herein embodies the power of our twelve 
judges, and issues opinions in the form of fethwas, con- 
firming or invalidating sentences. But appeal from 
inferior to superior courts is always admissible. In- 
stances of this occur daily. 

In the examples of sentences noticed in a previous 
chapter, it has been shown that original judgments 
uttered in the provinces had been referred to the higher 
tribunals of the capital. Lastly, there is appeal in all 
cases, civil or criminal, to the Sultan, who in these mat- 
ters can not only exercise his right of grace, but com- 
mand revision. The act of appeal is consecrated in the 
Turkish language by the expression "basheka mahke- 
meia mooradjeat itmek, 11 — (to have recourse to a superior 
court). 

The southern wall of the Suleimanya court is flanked 
externally by a broad street, shaded by trees, and occu- 
pied on the southern side by a line of coffee-shops, once 
celebrated as the resort of teriaky (drunkards), a name 
given to those who indulged in the baneful use of opium. 
The shops where these besotted men might formerly be 
seen assembled, with haggard looks, blood-shot eyes, 
and drivelling lips, awaiting the temporary fever result- 
ing from the pernicious drug, and the trees that over- 
shadowed them, as they laughed and gesticulated in 
their drunken ecstasy, still exist ; but the race of public 
opium-eaters is extinct. Good sense or caprice has 
effected that which defied the persecutions of sultans and 
the anathemas of the church. 

Nevertheless, although opium is no longer indulged in 

l 3 



22G OPIUM MARKET, 

publicly, its use is not altogether exploded. Many 
persons are still known to employ it privately ; but they 
qualify it with raki or some other ardent spirit. I say 
qualify; for, although the qualification appears to be the 
mere addition of quick fire to slow poison, the Turks 
declare that spirits serve to increase temporary excite- 
ment, whilst they diminish the subsequent evils of the 
drug. 

If the use of opium has decreased, that of swallowing 
exciting electuaries has in no respect diminished, espe- 
cially among persons of high rank, who are much ad- 
dicted to those stimulants, or philtres, called madjoon. 
The late Sultan, Mahmoud II., whose death was accele- 
rated, if not exclusively caused, by indulgence in ardent 
spirits, is known to have had constant recourse to mad- 
joon. It is even pretended that the present Hekim Ba- 
sliy owed his favour and elevation to the concoction of 
electuaries, to which Sultan Mahmoud attributed the 
temporary renovation of his exhausted constitution and 
flagging powers. 

Among the first qualifications required of a family 
apothecary, or self-called physician, is a knowledge of the 
art of preparing madjoon. Thus it often happens that 
the reputation of Turkish, Jewish, and Armenian practi- 
tioners, nay, even of Europeans, is more dependent upon 
their supposed skill in concocting restoratives and phil- 
tres than in their knowledge of the therapeutic art. Re- 
spectable Frank or Perote physicians, several of whom 
are established at Pera and Galata, do not, of course, 
condescend to employ these treacherous means of obtain- 
ing favour ; but others, less scrupulous, avail themselves 
largely of these charlataneries. 

Madjoon are composed of divers ingredients, supposed 






EXCITING ELECTUARIES. 22? 

to possess exciting qualities, mixed with aloes, musk, 
opium, ambergris, cinnamon, cochineal, cinnabar, aniseed, 
cantharides, Sec. To these are sometimes added precious 
substances which render them expensive, such as pow- 
dered pearls, rubies, coral, gold, and silver. They are 
then called djevahir madjoony (jewel electuaries). The 
preparers of these nostrums derive profit proportionate to 
the influence they exeixise over the credulity or hypochon- 
dria of their employers, and hold themselves fortunate 
when they can persuade the latter that pure gold must 
be advanced, or jewels provided, in order to concoct 
these potions. In such cases they generally purloin the 
precious substances, and substitute gold-leaf and mother 
of pearl. This system of roguery, combined with many 
others, calls to mind a saying of Bernini, who drew plans 
for building the Louvre, afterwards erected by Perrault: 
" Kings," said he, "rob subjects — ministers rob kings — 
— tailors rob ministers — soldiers rob tailors — priests ab- 
solve all, and the devil spares none." 

But we are not entitled to scoff at the Turks for their 
faith in the efficacy of electuaries and stimulants. Re- 
liance is still placed in similar nostrums by many persons 
in France and other countries; and at no very remote 
period, this faith was universal in the most enlightened 
classes, as is proved by a book of receipts published in 
Paris in 1686, under the sanction of the most celebrated 
physicians and the Council of State*. 

* One or two extracts from this collection of niadjoon, entitled, 
"Secret and Sovereign Remedies," will suffice as examples: — 

Admirable Orvietan. 
Honey one pound, lemon juice four drachms, fine sugar half a pound, 
auua theriacalis* one pound, angelica roots one ounce; coralina moss, 

* In this theriacal water, supposed to have been invented by Vene- 



22S ELECTUARIES. 

But if European quacks had recourse to " orvietans," 
tberiaks, and philtres, to restore or excite the drowsy 
faculties of premature old age, they also concocted potions 
intended to neutralize the exuberant ardour of youthful 
passions, above all when inflamed rather than tempered by 
monastic seclusion. Eastern dervishes, a species of monks, 
not being subjected to the ordeal of continence, do not 
require these sedatives, and, although their use might be 
beneficial in great harems, no instance is recorded of their 
application. In so far, then, the quackeries of Christen- 
dom are more meritorious than those of the East, for 
monks and nuns employ, to this hour, what are called 
" electuaries of chastity." 1 Certain herbs, also, powdered 
and placed in bags, are worn upon the bosom in nunne- 

seorsoncra, rophanum, white fraxinclla, pyrethrum, and tormentilla, ol 
each one ounce. These roots being pounded, Bifted, and added to 
twenty-one other roots, superfluous to mention, the whole must be well 
pounded again, but not sifted. Tu these add twelve dilfereiit kinds nl 

seeds; then one ounce of one year old stag's horn, taken from the right 
side; one drachm of pounded stag's heart: one ounce of fine pearl--, 
reduced to powder; one hare's heart, dried in an oven; the hearts and 
livers of two vipers; half an ounce of fine white coral, and half an 
ounce of the raspings of a human skull. 

Infallible Remedy against I'jiilcpsy. 
Take of common polypody dried and powdered, of moss growing 
from the skull of a man who died by violent means (criminals preferred), 

of nail-filings from human hands and feet, two drachms each; piony 
root half an ounce, and of fresh misletoe half an ounce. Boil them 
together as the moon wanes; cool, strain, and administer in small 
doses. 

Such were the nostrums, called" philtres," in common use during the 
reign of Louis XIV. and his successor. 



tian quacks, is mixed a certain quantity of opium. It is prohahle that 
the word has the same root as the teriak of the East. Orvie'tans arc a 
kind of paste: they are still sold by continental apothecaries; and 
theriaks, in general use within the last fifty years, are also kept for 
sale. 



BARBERS. 2'29 

ries, in order to remove or diminish those natural beau- 
ties which mundane women often endeavour to replace or 
augment by artificial stratagems*. 

Although Teriaky Tcharsshy has lost merit as the re- 
sort of opium-eaters, it retains its reputation as the resi- 
dence of most expert barbers. This profession, now 
principally exercised by Armenians, is generally united 
with that of coffee-house keeper. Although the fashion 
of wearing hair is becoming universal, the barber's trade 
is still lucrative, and the corporation extensive. This 
may be observed on passing the coffee-houses, of which 
more than 27 00 are said to exist in the city and sub- 
urbs. Their frequenters are numerous; two-thirds are 
elderly men, still retaining old dresses and habits. The 
barbers of Eyoub, however, are regarded as the most ex- 
pert of the whole craft. The inhabitants of this most 
devout suburb adhere more rigidly than all others to an- 
cient customs, and the barbers, almost all Moslems, have 
been as much celebrated since the conquest for their 
excellent lather and sharp razors as are the makers of 
yaoort and kaimak (sour milk and clotted cream) for 
their superior productions. 

* The principal ingredient of these is the root of the white nenufar 
(nyrnphtea alba), that graceful lily, whose broad green foliage and snowy 
blossoms, emblematic as it were of youth and purity, adorn our lakes 
and reservoirs. But the repressive virtues of this plant are highly 
questionable ; for it appears that its roots are used in large quantities, 
mixed with flour, for bread in Sweden. Now it is evident, as a witty 
French author has observed when alluding to this subject*, that Swedes 
multiply and increase as do other people. He might have added, more- 
over, that the land of the great Gustavus and warlike Charles is not 
that wherein Vesta, and the chaste Goddess of the Crescont are most 
assiduously worshipped. 



* Alphonsc Kar. 



230 BARBERS. 

The address of the Constantinopolitan barbers is as 
remarkable as their implements are apparently clumsy. 
Razor blades, made in England and Germany, expressly 
for the Turkey market, are imported wholesale by com- 
mission houses, and retailed in packets to the razor- 
makers, whose principal abodes are inside the western 
wall of the Shahzadeh-Mosque court. The business of 
the latter is merely to fit the short, broad blade to its 
long, round handle of ivory, bone, or stained wood, orna- 
mented at the end with coral or amber, so that the closed 
razor appears thus: — 



/" • — — - — 77~ 

— — L__ L • : : : 




The art of self-shaving being unknown in the East, 
oostoorajees 1 (razor-makers") customers are limited to 
barbers, who also purchase at the same shops the depila- 
tory tweezers with which they extract superfluous hair 
from the cheeks, and thus give to the beard that regular 
form which is the characteristic of well-dressed Stambol 
faces. With the above tools, a small Mambrino basin 
for lather, a strip of leather hanging to the waist for 
strop, and a coloured rag for razor-cloth, the barber pre- 
pares for duty. The customer, having drunk his coffee 
and smoked his pipe, leans against the angle of the ele- 
vated wooden seat that runs round all coffee-houses ; the 
barber, wearing a coloured handkerchief as apron, throws 
a towel over the patient's shoulder, and, having sufficiently 
humected the head or face with soap-water, proceeds to 
business with extraordinary neatness and rapidity. 



BARBERS. 231 

If the customer wear a beard the head is alone shaved, 
and the tweezers regulate the cheeks. If the beard is 
not worn, as is the case with all officers under the rank of 
Pasha, and all persons attached to the Imperial house- 
hold, the razor is applied, and the moustache is alone 
spared. When the operation is completed, the patient is 
offered a small looking-glass, and he sees with satisfaction 
that his beard, moustache, and eye-brows are trimmed 
with mathematical precision ; that not a single hair tres- 
passes upon the line of demarcation, and that his head is 
devoid of all superfluities, save the small tuft at the sum- 
mit, by which the common people suppose that their 
guardian angei will, please God, gently raise them into 
Paradise, when Izrafil shall summon the blessed with the 
echoes of his melodious trumpet. 

The barbers 1 trade is not limited to the process of 
shaving. They are pedicurists, and sometimes tooth- 
drawers, which latter art is announced by a triangular 
mosaic of teeth and glass beads suspended over their 
doors. The teeth are trophies indicative of their skill : 
the glass is intended as a charm against the evil eye. 
Barbers are all phlebotomists with lancet or leech. 
The former mode of depletion is less common than the 
latter. Leeches are sovereign specifics with the faculty, 
both native and foreign, and are perhaps essential in a 
country where the prevalent maladies are of an inflam- 
matory character. 

The leech fisherv forms an item of government mono- 
poly, and is farmed yearly by an Armenian company, 
under the direction of the sooluk eminy (leech inspec- 
tor), whose business it is to estimate the value of the 
fisheries, to fix the amount of contract, and to account for 
proceeds. The exportation to Germany and Russia is 



232 BARBER-SURGEONS. 

immense. Many commercial houses arc engaged in tlii> 
trade. The leeches of Anatolia are larger than those of 
Roomelia, and are more esteemed by the faculty, as they 
are said to be more eager to perform their duty, and 
more capable of extracting larger quantities than those 
of Roomelia. 

The price paid to a barber for each leech in 1813 was 
one piastre (two pence), with a small fee for attendance. 
The latter is given with great care and address, and the 
operation is less troublesome than in Europe. In order 
to stop the hemorrhage, a coating of pounded coffee i> 
applied. This produces the effect of a strong styptic 
without inflammation. This process, if employed at 
night, is, however, exceedingly unpleasant The patient 
sleeps ; the crust of coffee dries and falls off, the bed be- 
comes sprinkled with the sharp grits, and the suffering 
of the pilgrim who forgot to boil the peas in his shoes on 
his journey to Loretto, must have been less intense than 
those of the patient who rolls upon this macadamised 
coffee-bed . 

One of the most important functions of the barber's 
trade remains to be noticed. It is that of the sunnetjee 
(circumciscrs). The performance of this operation so 
intimately connected with the essence of Mussulman 
faith, raises this class of men in the estimation of the peo- 
ple, and has, in more than one instance, elevated the 
operator to distinguished honours. 

An example of this is recorded in Djcrrah Mohammed 
Pasha, founder of the beautiful mosque near the remnant 
of the column of Arcadius, in Avret Bazary. This person, 
son of a porter at Scutari, was apprenticed to a Stambol bar- 
ber, by whose lessons he so well profited, that he obtained 
the custom and notice of many distinguished functionaries. 



BAEBER -SURGEONS. 233 

Through their recommendations to the kizlar aghassy, 
young Mohammed was appointed aid-barber, and even- 
tually berber-bashy to Murad III.; an office of conside- 
rable emolument and confidence in those days, bein^, as 
it is at present, one of the principal twenty-four court 
charges, with colonel's rank. Upon Murad's eldest son, 
Mohammed, being of age to undergo circumcision, the 
berber-bashy was entitled to perform this office, and did 
so, apparently to the infinite satisfaction of both parent 
and patient, for the former forthwith appointed him 
pasha of two tails and djerrah-bashy (surgeon in chief), 
and, upon the accession of Mohammed III. in 1595, 
that wholesale fratricide further raised Djerrah Moham- 
med to the rank of three-tailed Pasha*. 

Thinking also that a man who could handle the razor 
of circumcision with such dexterity must be equally skil- 
ful in wielding the scymetar, Mohammed III. conferred 
upon Djerrah the post of Agha in Chief of the Janissa- 
ries. Nor did the Sultan judge erroneously. Djerrah 
Mohammed commanded these unruly troops with firm- 
ness and distinction during the remainder of his life, 
which, according to the date on his tomb, was cut short 
in 1598. The mosque of " Surgeon Mohammed Pasha" 1 
is amono- the most remarkable for external neatness and 
quaint ornament in the city. It is richly painted and 
sculptured in the painted, florid Saracenic style, intro- 
duced by the celebrated Grand Vizir Kuprouly Pasha. 

• Turkish barbers practise surgery to this day, and in so doing they 
find imitators in various countries of Europe. Surgery in the most 
civilised states was of humble origin. As late as the commencement of 
the last century, the barber-surgeons of France were at the head of the 
College of Surgeons; and under Louis XIV. these surgeons were not 
only wig-makers, but petitioned the king to grant them the monopoly 
of these articles. 



234 CIRCUMCISION. 

The ceremony of sunnett (circumcision) may be re- 
garded as the only remarkable festival in the life of Mos- 
lems, save that of marriage. It is anticipated with 
devotional anxiety by the whole family, and is always 
recurred to in after-life with sentiments of emotion. Bovs 
look forward to it with eagerness, as an approach to 
manhood, and final initiation into the mysteries of their 
faith; and above all, as a period of extraordinary indul- 
gence and congratulation, sanctified by religion and hal- 
lowed by those hereditary practices of which Moslems 
are rigid observers. It is remembered at a later period 
as an epoch of singular felicity. 

It brings to mind the blessed days of childhood. It 
recalls the endearments of tender parents, the soft caresses 
of affectionate sisters, and the fond outpourings of bro- 
therly love, at that age when the generous sentiments 
implanted in our bosoms by the Almighty have not been 
deadened by worldly contact, or perverted by those mer- 
cenary or jealous impulses, which too often convert the 
honey of our hearts into the most bitter and deadliest gall. 

There is no country where these, too frequent, poisons 
of family intercourse have less influence over natural in- 
timacies than in Turkey : no where are the ties of blood 
and reciprocal affection between parents and children, 
brothers and sisters, more intensely felt, or more faithfully 
maintained. Amidst the many contradictions and ca- 
prices that mark the Turkish character, those of defying 
the precepts of nature and bursting the bonds of filial or 
fraternal attachment are not included. Devotion of chil- 
dren to parents, and mutual solicitude for the welfare of 
brothers and sisters, are not to be surpassed. No people 
are therefore enabled to recur to early days with more 
unalloyed or more disinterested sentiments. 



CIRCUMCISION. 235 

Although it does not appear that the Prophet under- 
went circumcision, nature, according to tradition, having 
obviated this necessity, and although the operation is not 
ordained by the Kooran, it is held to be obligatory upon 
all Moslems, in imitation of the early disciples, that is, 
unless some physical defect should render the operation 
dangerous, either at the required age, or at a later period. 
Moslems trace the origin of this practice to Abraham, 
■who, though he had nearly attained his hundredth year, 
submitted to the operation by command of the archangel 
Gabriel*. 

Other theologians assert that Sarah, jealous of Hagar, 
swore that she would not rest until she had cut a piece of 
flesh from her body. This coming to Abraham's ears, 
he succeeded in pacifying his wife, and at the same time 
suggested a plan by which he enabled her to keep her 
oath. This was by compelling her handmaid to sub- 
mit to circumcision. The example having been thus 
given upon Hagar, she subjected Ishmael to a similar 
process, and thus the custom was consecrated ; so that 
Abraham and Hagar divide between them the patronage 
of the sunnetjee corporation. 

The second portion of the above tradition is repu- 
diated by other authorities. They admit that Sarah, 
grievously vexed at the preference shown by her hus- 
band for Ishmael over his more legitimate son, Isaac, 
fell into violent ebullitions of choler, and swore by the 
holy Keaba that she would cut the bondmaid's face to 
shreds, and thus destroy those charms which had fasci- 
nated the patriarch. But reason and more gentle sen- 
timents, backed by a lusty admonition from Abraham, 

* It will be observed that Musselman practices and traditions are 
principally founded upon Genesis xvi. and xvii. 



23G CIRCUMCISION. 

brought the aged wife to more humane conclusions. 
She had, however, sworn a solemn oath, and it was 
essential that it should be fulfilled. 

After meditating many hours, she fell upon her face, 
and prayed to the Almighty for advice. Whereupon, 
an inward voice spake to her, and inspired her with the 
means of fulfilling her oath, without proceeding to 
extremes. She therefore took a sharp instrument, and 
after explaining her dilemma and innocent intentions to 
Hagar, the latter patiently submitted to have her cars 
bored, and, as a natural consequence, to wear ear-rings. 
To this innocent subterfuge of Sarah's Moslems trace 
the origin of ear-boring, which is never omitted by 
women. The incision in the ear is consequently de- 
clared to be essential, as an imitative practice, and is 
generally performed when girls attain their seventh or 
eighth year. In Sale's Notes to the Kooran the prac- 
tice of circumcision is traced to Adam by a Spanish 
commentator ; whose description I do not care to quote, 
even in its Castilian disguise*. 

The act of circumcision, practised within eight days 
by the Jews, does not take place at Constantinople until 
towards the eighth or ninth year, and is oftentimes 
delayed until the twelfth or fourteenth, as was the case 
with the present Sultan and his brother Abdoul Haziz. 
The ceremony, described in other works, took place with 
extraordinary pomp at the imperial kioshk of Kihat 
Khana. Five thousand pounds sterling were expended 
in alms, and upwards of five hundred sheep were sacri- 
ficed as holocausts, and distributed among the poor. 
The whole expense, including presents in money and 

* See notes to Sale's Kooran. 






CIRCUMCISION. 237 

dresses to the kadinns and women of the harem, to the 
munedjim bashy, officiating surgeons, &c., exceeded 
forty thousand pounds. 

In former days, the magnificence of these ceremonies 
far surpassed the display of modern times. The whole 
imperial household, male and female, comprising five 
thousand souls residing within the Seraglio walls, was 
newly and splendidly clothed. Presents were made to 
the sheikhs and imams of all imperial mosques. Pre- 
cious stones and gold were distributed in every direction, 
and alms were liberally given to the poor. It is worthy 
of observation that no solemnity, public or private, takes 
place in Turkey without the practice of that charity 
which so eminently distinguishes the people. On the 
other hand, all pashas and great personages who re- 
ceived letters of notification, made it a point to return 
presents of money, jewels, horses, arms, and other valu> 
able articles, as accompaniments to their congratulations. 
D'Ohsson gives the translation of a circular, addressed 
in 1582 by Sultan Murad III. to various grand dig-- 
nitaries, announcing the approaching circumcision of his 
son Mohammed, to whom the surgeon pasha was ope- 
rator. This letter affords a curious specimen of the 
florid and metaphorical style adopted by court writers 
in former days. As d , Ohsson , s excellent work is not 
generally read, I will give an English version of his 
French translation. 

" To the most illustrious His Excellency A. B. Pasha. 

" Our faithful Pasha : — We make known to you by 
these imperial presents adorned with our own most 
noble and august touhra (cipher), that it being an 
indispensable and sacred duty for the people elect, the 



238 CIRCUMCISION. 

blessed people, the Mohammedan people, and more 
especially for sultans, monarchs, sovereigns, as well as 
all princes of their august dynasty, to follow in all 
things the laws and precepts of our holy Prophet — the 
model of all patriarchs and celestial envoys — and to 
observe religiously all things prescribed in our holy 
book, where it is said, ' Follow the trace of Abraham 
thy father, from whom thou hast derived the illustrious 
name of Musselman 1 * — we have therefore resolved to I 
fulfil the precept relative to circumcision in the person 
of our well beloved son, Prince Mohammed ; of this 
prince who, shadowed by the wings of celestial grace 
and divine aid, waxes in felicity and fragrant odour in 
the glorious path of the imperial throne ; of this prince 
in whom breathe nobility, grandeur, and magnificence; 
of this prince who, being honoured with the same name 
as the Prophet, is an object of just admiration to our 
high and sublime court ; of this prince, who is the 
most beautiful blossom in the flower-bed of equity and 
sovereign power — the most precious shoot in the garden 
of grandeur and magnificence — the most refined pearl of 
the monarchy and of supreme felicity — in short, the most 
luminous star in the firmament of serenity, peace, and 
public happinesst. 

" Thus the august person of this prince, and the 
young plant of his existence having already exhibited 

* Mooslim, the dual of which is Moosulman. D'Ohsson, and, after him 3 i 
others affirm the true meaning of this word to be "one abandoned or re- 
signed to God." But learned Turks declare this to be an erroneous' 
interpretation, and that Mooslim means " one having faith," or " trul} 
believing;" the word being the participle of Islam. 

•f This prince, it will be remembered, is the same who put to death 
his seventeen brothers, his eldest son, and the mother of the Jattcr, or 
the day of his accession. 



k r 



'H 



CIRCUMCISION. 239 

the most felicitous progress in the orchard of virility and 
strength, and the tender shoot of his essence having 
already become a superb ornament to the vineyard of 
prosperity and splendour, it is necessary that the vine- 
dresser of circumcision should apply the sharp pruning- 
knife to this new plant, to this charming rose-tree, and 
that he should guide the sap towards the vegetating 
blossom, in which are concentrated the principles of 
reproduction, the germs of precious fruits, and the for- 
tunate sprouts of the grand orchard of the khaliphat 
and of supreme power. 

" This august ceremony will therefore take place, 
under the auspices of Providence, during the coming 
spring — upon the return of that season when nature, 
regenerated and re-imbellished, offers to human eyes a 
semblance of paradise, and causes us to admire the 
marvellous works of the Almighty. Following the 
example of our glorious ancestors, who were always 
accustomed to publish the approach of these solemnities 
throughout the whole extent of their empire, and to 
invite thereto all the grand dignitaries, and generally all 
officers holding high offices, we transmit to you the 
present supreme command, that it may serve as a noti- 
fication and invitation for you to come and participate 
in the honour and joy of this festival, which will be 
celebrated in the midst of public rejoicings. 

" May the Supreme Being deign to bless the com- 
mencement and the end*! 1 ' 

With the middling and lower classes this ceremony is 
always an epoch of rejoicing and feasting, each according 

* Letters of a similar tenor were forwarded to some European courts, 
and to all Mussulman sovereigns and princes. 



240 CIRCUMCISION. 

to his means. During the preceding week, the hoys arc 
dressed in new clothes ; their fez are decked with gold 
talismans, coins and trinkets; they are indulged to 
satiety with sweetmeats and playthings ; and arc taken 
out to walk, ride, hathe, and visit. On the day of cele- 
bration and two subsequent days the children, male and 
female, of friends are invited to join the women in the 
harem, where the latter indulge themselves, whilst the 
men assemble in the salami vk. 

In great families this period is observed with unusual 
solemnity. When the epoch appointed by imitative 
practice approaches, the munedjim bashy, or some other 
astrologer, is consulted. He then fixes a propitious 
season, generally in spring or the commencement of 
summer, and determines the day and precise hour when 
the razor is to be applied. This being settled, due 
notice is given to intimate friends, especially to those 
who, having children of the same age, may be disposed 
to participate in the pains and pleasures of the festival. 
Similar notices are given to such inferior persons as the 
great man may please to honour, and, in some instances, 
from forty to fifty boys of this class are circumcised and 
made partakers of their patron's bounty at the same 
period. The merit of the feast and the sanctity of the 
operation are always enhanced in proportion to the extent 
of charity exhibited by the feast-giver. 

Children destined to perform the principal characters 
in the festival are indulged, as I have said, during the 
previous ten days, to the utmost of their wishes. New 
coats, embroidered in imitation of the court uniforms of 
their parents, are put on for the first time ; a richly 
mounted sword, the distinguishing mark of a bey-zadeli 
(pasha's or grandee's son), is hung by a gold belt to 



CIRCUMCISION. 241 

their tiny waists ; a strip of gold lace adorns their 
browsers ; the front of the coat is left open to display a 
pair of braces of blue velvet, embroidered with gold and 
seed pearls, resting upon a waistcoat of Cashmere shawl. 
Their hair, hanging down their backs in twenty or 
more plaits, is interwoven with pearls, and their fez are 
adorned with one or more diamond mashallahs and 
touhras, and looped with five or six rows of handsome 
pearls. 

Thus accoutred, they are conducted from the harem 
into the salamlyk ; whence, after exhibiting their finery 
to their male relatives and friends, they are led down 
stairs, where attendants stand prepared with ponies, the 
sleekness of whose coats rivals in lustre the gold embroi- 
dered housings and embossed bridles, with which these 
pretty animals are generally caparisoned. 

The hall gates being thrown open, the young beys ride 
forth to visit, or to show themselves at the baths ; taking 
care not to pass the shekergee's and halwagee's shops with- 
out laying in a store of wherewithal to ruin both teeth 
and stomachs. On these occasions, they are not accom- 
panied by their fathers or hodjias (tutors), as that would 
detract from their dignity; but grooms walk by their 
sides, and numerous servants follow at their heels. In 
this fashion they slowly wind through the streets, with a 
degree of gravity and self-possession remarkable for 
children of their age, but characteristic of their educa- 
tion from earliest infancy. 

Sons of pachas not more than five years old, younger 
even, may be seen riding through the public thorough- 
fares, and managing their miniature chargers with the 
solemnity of mature age and the skill of experienced 
horsemen. It is observed generally that all Turkish 

VOL. III. m 



242 CIRCUMCISION. 

youths, accustomed from infancy to ride, sit their horses 
with arace and skill. When they attain manhood, how- 
ever, their figures gradually lose their elastic and graceful 
forms ; their shoulders become round, and their persons 
exhibit a tendency to obesity. Well proportioned, light- 
figured Turkish gentlemen of middle age are excep- 
tions. 

These and other diversions are continued until the 
forenoon of the appointed day, when the parents of 
those to be circumcised, with their male relatives and 
friends, assemble in one of the apartments of the 
salamlyk. All things being prepared, the sunettgee is 
introduced, and the boys are led in from the harem. 
Everything is then done by fathers and attendants, to 
soothe and sustain their courage, whilst a noisy band 
of music, placed in a corner, renders their sobs and 
subsequent lamentations inaudible. The precise instant 
having arrived, the sunettgee and assistant perform their 
duty in a few seconds, whilst the imam, standing by, sanc- 
tifies the operation with prayers and benedictions. 

The presence of the priest is not obligatory, the cere- 
mony bei-ng of imitative and not of divine precept. This 
attendance is nevertheless considered orthodox, and is 
rarely omitted by respectable persons; even as the nup- 
tial benediction, though declared superfluous in France 
and Belgium, is invariably demanded by all who respect 
themselves, or attach sanctity to the marriage ceremony*. 

The operation, rapidly performed by the aid of a 
razor, tweezers, and small box-wood stick, being termi- 
nated, a cataplasm of coral powder is applied to the 

* "When renegades undergo circumcision, imams always attend. Their 
presence is regarded as requisite to sanctify the initiation of these 
apostates, for whom all honest men entertain sovereign contempt. / 



CIRCUMCISION. 243 

wound, and the patient is removed to a chamber gaiJy 
decorated. Here he is placed upon a couch, ornamented 
with shawls and embroidered coverlets. Golden talis- 
mans and amulets are attached to the pillows. The walls 
are adorned with draperies, silken banners, artificial 
flowers, festoons of coloured ribbons, and gilt paper. 
The divans are strewed with presents, playthings, and 
sweetmeats. Small sabres, richly mounted, are also 
placed on the pillows, or suspended above. 

In the mean time, the children of dependents or poor, 
who are made partakers in the act, are placed in tents in 
the garden or in the lower apartments, where similar 
ceremonies are performed at the expense of the host. 

Previously and. subsequently to the operation, sheep, 
lambs, and goats are sacrificed. The giver of the feast 
sets the example of sacrifice, by slaying one or more 
animals with his own hand. The remainder, sometimes 
amounting to three or four score, are put to death by the 
family and guests. The flesh not consumed at the feast is 
distributed among the poor of the quarter. The animals 
destined for sacrifice are ornamented as during: Beiram. 
They must be free from defect of horn, eye, and hoof*. 
Their fleeces, cleanly washed, are streaked and dotted 
with henna and saffron. Their horns are gilt, blue glass 
talismans are suspended to their necks and tails, and gilt 
paper banners and coloured ribbons are affixed to their 
fleeces. 

Whilst inferior guests are diverted down stairs with 
rude music, swings, pipes, coffee, and a profusion of 
pastry and other sweet condiments, the personages above 

* In this Mohammed copied the Jewish legislator. See Leviticus 
xix. 19, 20, and 21, wherein it is forbidden to sacrifice "blemished" 
animals; and also Numbers xiv. 2. 

M2 



244 CIRCUMCISION. 

are feasted in a more sumptuous manner. Cakes, pre- 
serves, and confectionary are handed round in uninter- 
rupted variety and succession. Some Pashas carry their 
expense so far as to import most of these articles from 
Naples or Marseilles. To these are added ices, fruits, 
sherbets, and, at sun-down, a dinner consisting of a long 
succession of savourv dishes, terminating with delicate 
pilafs and fragrant bowls of khoshab. Mean while 
divers amusements are introduced to divert the guests 
and children. Among these are — 

1. Jewish or gipsy jugglers, whose clumsy tricks of 
legerdemain are always seasoned by coarse and ribald 
jokes. 

2. A company of actors of the same class, whose per- 
formances consist in pantomime of the grossest kind, 
interlarded with dialogue of the same alloy, but not 
unseasoned with wit and humorous situations. 

3. Orchestras of gipsy musicians, whose songs, harsh 
and grating to European ears, produce the effect of most 
harmonious cadences and symphonies on those of natives. 
But the most disgusting of all these exhibitions is that of 
Kara Geuz (black eve), whose indecent performances 
have been mentioned in a former chapter. It is said by 
some well-educated Turks that these foul exhibitions 
are tolerated, not encouraged ; and that the excess of 
grossness serves as an antidote. But it may always be 
observed that the effect produced upon spectators of all 
ages by these performances is unqualified pleasure and 
hilarity. Nine out of ten depart highly gratified, and 
repeat the most filthy witticisms of Kara Geuz and his 
confederate Hadji A'ivat, as persons who quit operas 
seek to retain the most melodious airs. 

The feast does not terminate with dinner. At night- 



CIRCUMCISION. 245 

fall, houses and gardens are illuminated, guns are fired, 
rockets are discharged at intervals, and a display of 
fireworks takes place after fifth prayer, when the children 
retire and guests depart. The festival is thus kept up 
during the whole week, each sex having its distinct 
days of rejoicing. The first three days, generally com- 
mencing on Saturday, are allotted to the men ; the three 
following to the women. The young patients are always 
removed from the salamlyk to the harem at the expira- 
tion of the third day, and are perfectly cured in the 
course of the week. These ceremonies being terminated, 
the parents 1 next thought is to look out for a suitable 
marriage; and it often occurs that betrothal follows im- 
mediately after circumcision. 

The most pleasing spectacles at rich circumcisions are 
the picturesque groups of children of both sexes that 
cluster upon the divans, or occupy the recesses of apart- 
ments. These little creatures, for the most part as beautiful 
in face and graceful in person as they are resplendent and 
varied in attire, present what may be termed a natural 
masquerade, inimitable by poet or painter. Issue or 
descendants of the fairest and most symmetrically formed 
women of Circassia and Georgia, their features rarely 
exhibit any trace of the old Turkoman characteristics. 

These traces have been effaced by constant inter- 
crossings of gentle blood. The high cheek-bone, low 
forehead, upturned nose, and small restless eye, typical 
of the Tartar race, are rarely met with, even among the 
lowest classes at Stambol ; although, as already remarked, 
the number of Russian prisoners now scattered over the 
Circassian districts have produced a taint perceptible in 
the features of children latterly imported. 

The figures of children of both sexes, with the excep- 



246 TURKISH CHILDREN. 

tion of the legs being somewhat bowed, are remarkable 
for their symmetry. Those of young girls cannot be 
surpassed in flexibility and classic curve. Nature is 
allowed full scope to develop itself. The tight shackles, 
so often fatal to the health of European girls, are un- 
known. This freedom, combined with their flowing 
robes, gives to them an air of ease, roundness, and self- 
possession that cannot be attained by aid of stays, back- 
boards, and dancing-masters. A Turkish woman's move- 
ments may be considered as displaying too much languor 
and indifference ; but they are utterly free from those 
stiff' and angular attitudes, so common in Europe among 
our most tutored, or rather tortured, young ladies. 

Strangers who visit Constantinople are invariably 
struck with the dress of children of both sexes. They 
marvel at the originality of fashions, and the brilliancy of 
colours, which present the perfect harmony seen in the 
many-tinted tulip or variegated carnation, in whose pen- 
cilling nature admirablv exhibits the utmost freedom and 
contradiction, but blends the whole with exquisite soft- 
ness, so that the eye is not offended by opposing shades. 
The spectator's admiration is not limited to the dress and 
attitudes of these glittering butterflies. He cannot fail to 
remark the reserve and modesty of their demeanour, and, 
above all, the tender fondness which they exhibit towards 
their parents — a tenderness reciprocated in the most 
touching manner by fathers, who, with rosaries in hand 
and glistening eyes, watch the gambols of their little 
treasures. 

These mutual sentiments are not limited to infancy or 
early youth. They do not wear out with manhood. 
The fondness of children ripens into devout reverence at 
a more advanced period, and at no time during life do 



TURKISH CHILDREN. 24/ 

these admirable sentiments diminish. Yet their inter- 
course does not descend to extreme familiarity. When 
sons and daughters attain adolescence, their behaviour to 
parents is profoundly respectful. The forms of etiquette 
due to the precedence of rank or age are always adhered 
to, at least before strangers ; and yet this is unaccompa- 
nied by stiffness or restraint. This shows that the senti- 
ment springs from the heart and not from fear. 

On the other hand, parents maintain the same forms 
towards their grown-up children; they salute them in the 
mode due to their position, and address them with the title 
affixed to their rank. For instance, they do not say, 
" Ahmed or Fatmeh, do this or go there, 11 but add Bey, 
Effendy, or Pasha, to men's names, andKhanum (Madam), 
to those of women, interspersed now and then with the 
more endearing terms of djanum (my soul), or koozum (my 
lamb). Those who are admitted to intimacy in Turkish 
houses rarely discover any departure from these pleasing 
forms. Such, at least, was the case in the families where 
I was admitted as a friend, without familiarity, but with 
a hearty yet high-bred cordiality that cannot be forgotten. 

Before taking leave of the barbers'' corporation, I 
must observe, that they pay special reverence to the me- 
mory of an Arab named Selmen, first cousin, favourite, 
and barber to the Prophet. Indeed, so great was Mo- 
hammed's esteem for the skill and piety of his relation, 
that he was wont to say, " Our cousin SelmeiVs wisdom 
extends not only to perfect knowledge of the past but to 
the future. His piety can only be surpassed by his mo- 
desty. Five times each day, when he prostrates himself 
for prayer, the angels of Paradise stretch forth their 
.arms to anoint him. 11 Selmen continued in favour until his 
last hour, and was one of the twelve to whom Mohammed, 



24S INKSTANDS AND 

in imitation of the holy Apostles, promised salvation. It 
has been shewn that barbers held prominent positions in 
the households of Sultans and wealthy persons. This 
may be accounted for by the necessity existing in the 
East for employing confidential individuals, who combine 
mechanical skill with agreeable conversation and perfect 
discretion. 

The opposite side of the street occupied by barbers 
and coffee-shops, is tenanted by dyvitjee (ink-stand ma- 
kers), and by fenarjee (makers of paper lanterns). The 
first of these trades derives its origin from the earliest 
periods. The use of dyvits is traced up to the prophet 
Enoch, who is supposed to have been the inventor of 
writing as well as weaving. He it was, who, being in- 
structed by the archangel Gabriel, made the first reed 
pen, much as they are used in the present day, and also 
the first distaff*. lie is consequently the patron of all 
scribes and calligraphers, although some rigid Moslems 
are disposed to ascribe the invention of inkstands to a 
disciple of the Prophet's, named Abou Hafeear. It is 
affirmed by them that he invented the model of the ar- 
ticle now in use, which he made of brass, and presented to 
Mohammed, who wore it constantly in his girdle, and be- 
queathed it to Ali. This relic passed into the possession of 
the Ommiads, and thence into the hands of the Abassides. 
It was destroyed when the treasures of the latter Kaliphs 
were plundered by the Tartar invaders of Bagdad. 

Dyvits, not unlike short pistols in form, are made of 
brass and sometimes of silver. That of the Sultan's 

* According to modern belief, Enoch was the son of Berd, and the 
most learned and studious of all the sons of men. Thence the epithet 
Idriss added to his name. Moslems believe in his translation at the 
period mentioned in holy writ. 



PAPER LANTERNS. 249 

secretary is of gold, ornamented with a single large ruby. 
The ink is contained in the butt, or projecting part, and 
the reeds, knife, and ivory for nibbing and splitting the 
reed, in the barrel, which opens at the muzzle. They 
are worn with the elongated part thrust into the girdle or 
bosom pocket. Inkstand -bearers of Pashas always carry 
the dyvit in this manner, and are ready at a moment's 
notice with paper and ready-made pen, but not with wax, 
which is in the seal-bearer's department. Some ancient 
dyvitjee were renowned for their productions, which are 
as much esteemed among Turks as those of Cellini with 
us. Anions; these were Roomee EfFendy, who lived under 
Murad IV. His inkstands were o;enerallv of brass, in- 
crusted with gold or silver, and are eagerly purchased for 
seven or eight thousand piastres. Eski Mohammed was 
also celebrated under Achmet III. He made the large, 
bossed inkstands carried by ministers'' attendants. These 
are now valued at five thousand piastres, without jewels. 

The manufacture of paper lanterns forms an important 
branch of trade in a city where the streets are not lighted, 
and where, after sunset, all persons not carrying lanterns 
are liable to be arrested and locked up for the night in one 
of the central police offices. If the captive be a Frank, 
he must cause himself to be claimed by his legation 
as early as possible, or he may have to pay a fine, or 
perhaps to remain two or three days in durance. A 
patriotic Englishman may find some consolation, however, 
when he observes that three-fourths of the vagabonds 
whom he may encounter in these prisons are subjects of 
Great Britain, that is, either Maltese or Ionians — the 
scourge of Pera and Galata. 

The round paper lanterns in general use are about 
fourteen inches long, with pasteboard bottoms, in which 

m 3 



250 AQUEDUCT OF VALZNS. 

the candle is placed. They are elastic, and fold up in 
the space of half an inch, so that they are easily carried 
in the pocket. The finer lanterns are of gauze, with tin or 
copper extremities. Complaints are made by foreigners 
of the inconvenience of carrying lanterns. It is a much 
greater inconvenience, methinks, to fall into quagmires, 
or to be assailed by dogs, consequences that must be 
regarded as inevitable, so long as the police declares that it 
could not see to catch thieves, if the streets were lighted 
with lamps : a curious application of " darkness visible*." 

Leaving Teriaky Tcharsshy at its southern extremity, 
and following a narrow street running south-west, the 
valley which separates the third and fourth hills will 
soon be reached. Here the aqueduct of Valens .stretches 
from point to point and conveys to the great Seraglio 
Taksim the waters oozing from the marshy heights 
westward of Kihat Khana. Gvllius, correct in almost all 
topographical and statistical details, affirms that the 
waters which traverse this aqueduct are drawn from Bel- 
grade. This assertion is contradicted by Andreossy and 
by the declarations of the guardians of At Bazary and 
Egri Kapou reservoirs. 

According to the best authorities, Bozdoghan Kemary 
w r as first erected upon a single line of arches by Adrian, 
before the final constitution of the city by Constantine. 
Its construction being defective, and its arches having 
received many injuries from earthquakes, it gradually fell 
into ruin, and w r as choked up with rubbish until the reign 
of Valens. He commanded it to be pulled down and 
rebuilt from the foundation upon a double tier of arches; 

* Such were the motives seriously alleged by the Governor of Top- 
liana, in 1843, for refusing permission to the inhabitants of Perato light 
the streets with lamps. 



AQUEDUCT OF VALENS. 251 

that is, in all those parts crossing the dips of the valleys 
between the walls and the vicinity of the Forum Theo- 
dosii (now Serasker's Square), where it terminated in 
a simple channel of masonry. 

This reconstruction is supposed to have taken place 
a.d. 36*7, but it was not built sufficiently strong to resist 
the earthquake which shook down the great dome of Aya 
Sofia during the reign of Justinian, in 558. The dila- 
pidated aqueduct was neglected by the latter emperor, 
whose revenues were devoted to other purposes. Indeed, 
he is said to have robbed all the water conduits of their 
leaden pipes, and to have substituted others of earth ; a 
change by no means detrimental to the health of the 
city. 

Justinius II., Justinian's immediate successor, at length 
bethought himself of the aqueduct, and repaired the 
whole, a.d. 570 ; but, when the city was besieged by the 
Avarians in 617> the external conduits were destroyed, 
and the besiegers having penetrated within the walls, 
demolished all the western portion of the aqueduct itself. 
Nor was any attempt made to rebuild this noble work, 
until the year 7^6, when Constantine Iconomakos and 
Copronymos, the iconoclast and filthy, as he was nick- 
named by the people, commanded the restoration of the 
whole in the most solid manner. This act ought to have 
washed out both epithets attached to this emperor's name, 
but the vox populi bids defiance to time and reason. 

The work of Copronymos continued to supply the 
quarter of Aya Sofia and the imperial residences grouped 
round the Akropolis, during three centuries, when symp- 
toms of decay were perceptible, and, the channels being 
partly broken down or obstructed with weeds, the whole 
was repaired by the emperor Basil (a. d. 1020) . Thirteen 



252 AQUEDUCT OF VALEXS. 

years later, a succession of terrible earthquakes, whose 
effects were felt during many days throughout Egypt, 
Syria, Palestine, and various parts of Europe, shook the 
whole city to its foundations*. 

Among other public monuments that suffered was the 
centre dome of Aya Sofia, and the Valens Aqueduct. A 
third of the cupola of the former fell in, and was never 
correctly rebuilt. Its walls were rent also in many 
places, and were only prevented from falling by the 
addition of those massive buttresses which have de- 
stroyed the symmetry of its outward appearance, and 
given to it a heavy and incongruous form, utterly op- 
posed to the sublimity and airy elevation of the interior. 

Although the damage received by Bozdoghan Kemarv 
was less serious, many of the upper tier of arches were 
shaken down, and the whole required repairs. These 
were effected in 1035. No record exists of the aque- 
duct having materially suffered during the following 
five centuries, notwithstanding the frequent recurrence 
of earthquakes ; but, during the reign of Sultan Sulei- 
man, the whole mass was found to require complete 
renovation, and therefore in the year 1540 it was entirely 
rebuilt. 

Notwithstanding the convulsion of 1551, when the 
earth was agitated by the most appalling throes for 
more than ten minutes, whereby many public buildings, 
mosques, and some hundred private dwellings were cast 
down, and the city walls between the Silivry Gate and 
the Seven Towers were hurled in huge fragments into 

* Earthquakes, which lasted from the 18th of April to the 6th of 31 ay 
last year (1843), destroyed the Persian frontier town of Khoy, and 
other places in the province of Tabreez, and caused the death of more 
than oue thousand persons. 



AQUEDUCT OF VALENS. 253 

the ditches, where portions still remain ; notwithstand- 
ing these and other shocks, the Valens Aqueduct, such 
as it was rebuilt by the great architect Sinan, would 
have remained intact, had not Suleiman resolved to 
destroy a portion of his own noble construction. 

Finding that the supply of water flowing from the 
crown of the fourth hill to the terminus on the third, 
near Sultan Bajazet, would suffer no diminution by 
pulling down a part of the upper range of arches tra- 
versing the intervening valley, Suleiman ordered their 
demolition. The object of this was to open a view of 
the Shahzadeh mosque, from the north bank of the 
harbour and Galata. But Suleiman is said to have 
repented himself of this resolution before the entire 
demolition of the upper tier. It was discovered, as 
the process of destruction proceeded, that the purpose 
would not be fulfilled ; half the upper range was 
therefore allowed to remain. Such was the cause of the 
abruption frequently attributed to less reasonable mo- 
tives. 

This truncated aqueduct, rising above the neck of 
the valley and subjacent edifices, forms a most pic- 
turesque and noble object, when seen towards sunset. 
At this moment the gorgeous luminary pours forth his 
departing light through the remaining arches, and tinges 
surrounding objects with that inimitable haze of gilded 
purple peculiar to the Bosphorus. It is towards the 
middle of autumn, the finest and most agreeable of all 
seasons in these regions, that the sunsets are most splendid, 
and that these unrivalled, glowing tints are most admi- 
rable in their effects. It is then that the Bosphorus, the 
Propontis, the Princes'' islands, the distant Olympus, and 
the nearer mountains, offer a succession of prospects 



254 AQUEDUCT OF VALENS. 

unrivalled in variety, unequalled for their majestic repose 
and aerial softness. 

Many persons, drawing comparisons between the 
beauties of the bay of Naples and the Bosphorus, accord 
the palm to the former. In my humble judgment, this 
opinion is erroneous. There is greater majesty, epic 
poetry, and space in the first, but the latter is superior 
in fairy and flowery ideality, in softness and magic 
variety. Besides, the extent of the Neapolitan semi- 
circle is so vast, that the eye can only seize one or 
two portions at the same glance, and the parts when 
disunited are comparatively inferior ; whereas the spec- 
tator, placed on the heights above Pera or Scutari, can 
obtain a view of the whole scene before him, stretching 
in most harmonious succession from the foreground of 
dark expresses or blue waters, to the distant and misty 
veil of hills. 

The remnants of Bozdaghan Kemary pass over many 
streets, and intersect some of the most densely inhabited 
portions of the Suleimanya and At Bazary quarters. 
Some houses have doors opening upon the aqueduct; 
but, as the summit commands a sight into neighbouring 
gardens and courts, rules of decorum and good fellow- 
ship prevent their being made use of for other purposes 
than fire-escapes*. 

* Among these mansions is that of Rouhuddin Effendy, a retired colonel 
of Engineers, recently Charge' d' Affaires at Paris. This benevolent and 
enlightened officer, to whose instructive kindness and hospitality I am 
indebted for the most agreeable and useful days passed at Constantinople, 
is the father of the accomplished Ahmet Wefyk Effendy. On one occa- 
sion he permitted me to pass through the sofa (upper vestibule) of his 
house, which communicates with the aqueduct. I was thus enabled to 
enjoy a moonlight walk thereon. During the day no one is ever seen 
upon the summit save the sou yoljee, who have care of the pipes. 






SHOE AND SADDLE KHANA. 255 

The road from the " Drunkards 1 Market " to Divan 
Yolly passes through the second thoroughfare under 
the aqueduct, and opens into that portion called Direk 
Maidany (column place), from its being ornamented on 
either side by rows of columns, taken from ancient 
buildings. These pillars, some inverted, and all placed 
without regard to symmetry, form a low and narrow 
colonnade, backed by mean wooden houses, principally 
tenanted by inferior shoemakers. From this spot Divan 
Yolly runs westward, passing the beautiful tomb, foun- 
tain and college of Mohammed Ali Pasha; thence it 
runs between the southern wall of the Shahzadeh 
mosque, and a range of wooden sheds, partly tenanted 
by dealers in second-rate perfumery and mercery, and 
partly by Armenian basmajee. This trade carve wood- 
cuts for printing cottons or muslins, in readiness for 
embroidery or painting. The moulds are of box-wood, 
and the designs represent flowers or arabesques. 

After passing the south-west entrance to the Shah- 
zadeh court, within which the razor-sellers have their 
shops, Divan Yolly ascends by a tortuous course to 
Kavvaf and Sarradjlar Khana, two of the most ancient 
and important markets of the city. Both, as stated in 
our opening chapter, were erected by the conqueror, and 
were the first trades regularly licensed and established as 
corporations. The street now occupied by the Kav- 
vaflar was formerly enclosed with gates, and roofed with 
vaulted arches. It was repeatedly destroyed by fire 
and rebuilt ; but the great conflagration of 1715 having 

The altitude varies according to the dip and undulation of the ground 
from a maximum of seventy-eight feet. Its length, from the vicinity of 
Sultan Mohammed to the terminus near Esky Serai, is about twelve 
hundred and fifty feet, and its breadth in masonry eleven feet. 



256 MARCIAVS COLUMK, 

completely destroyed the roofs and gates, they have not 
been restored. The market is now a thoroughfare, open 
at all hours, and the pith of the trade is removed to the 
central bazars. 

Although it is not immediately within our purpose 
to notice objects unconnected with the main topic, we 
must turn aside a few yards to visit the column of 
Marcian, one of the few relics of antiquity that have 
escaped the ravages of fires, earthquakes, and successive 
iconoclasts. This monument, more interesting from its 
having escaped destruction than from intrinsic or his- 
torical merit, is so completely enclosed and hidden by 
habitations, that it may be passed within ten yards 
without being discovered, unless the antiquarian be con- 
ducted to its base. It is situated a few score yards 
south of the eastern gate of the shoe-market, within a 
small garden belonging to a respectable Turk, who, 
albeit he attaches no value to the pillar itself, and cannot 
comprehend the talismanic virtues that attract strangers 
to visit its half calcined shaft, most carefully watches 
over its safety as a source of annual revenue. 

The column and the quarter in which it stands are 
called by the Turks Kiz Tashy (the maiden's stone). 
This chaste denomination originates from a confusion 
made in earlier days between this column of granite and 
that of marble, erected near the Fanar, and in the centre 
of the quarter to which Constantine granted privileges 
similar to those enjoyed by the French Palais Royal, 
until purified of its unchaste inhabitants. On this 
column stood the celebrated statue of Venus, " the 
maiden -prover; 11 endowed, as affirmed by old historians, 
■with most singular powers ; for, whenever females whose 
morality was in any way questionable passed by, the 



MARCIAN'S COLUMN. 257 

statue produced the effect of a whirlwind upon their 
nether garments. In despite of all precautions, the tell 
tale robes flew over their shoulders, and, no matter how 
clumsy their ankles or cunning their artifices, pitilessly 
betrayed both. 

The dread of exposing themselves to the irresistible 
4 lever of this treacherous statue caused the fair sex to 
avoid the quarter where it smiled triumphant. No 
female, however confident in her own rectitude, cared to 
subject herself to this ordeal, unless compelled by ne- 
cessity. Eventually, the vicinity was entirely aban- 
doned by all, save those who had already abandoned 
themselves; and women passing to and from the city 
and suburbs preferred to brave the waters, or to con- 
front the winds upon the harbour shore, rather than to 
take the direct path, which led beneath the statue of this 
indiscreet Venus. The ill-natured pranks of this god- 
dess, however-, were suddenly and effectually checked by 
the Empress Sophia, wife to Justinian II. 

This princess, whose reputation for virtue and piety 
was unblemished, had occasion to proceed from her 
palace near the Hippodrome to that of the Blachern. 
Yielding to the wishes of her ladies and maids of 
honour, who had little fancy to essay the test of the 
" maiden-prover,"" Sophia directed her attendants to 
follow the lower road, so as to avoid passing the trea- 
cherous statue. But on reaching the water-side, near 
the present bridge, there arose a violent tempest, so that 
no alternative remained but to retrace their steps, or to 
submit to the ordeal of the upper road. Sophia, confi- 
dent in her own virtue, and perhaps maliciously desirous 
to test that of her attendants, readily adopted the latter, 
in spite of violent remonstrances on the part of the most 
austere and prudish ladies. 



25S m.yrcian's column. 

The imperial party soon paid dearly for this temerity. 
Scarcely had they reached the vicinity of the column, 
ere the Empress was seen to sit uneasily upon her 
embroidered saddle. As they proceeded, this uneaein 
increased, and her robes fluttered violently. Undaunted 
by this warning, the confident princess urged on her 
noble palfrey. Presently, however, matters assumed a 
most serious aspect. On entering the small forum dedi- 
cated to Venus, "the cha.-ditv-prover,"' the imperial gar- 
ments, as well as those of many most respected dames, 
flew upwards, and could neither be retained nor coax 
into their proper places, until the procession had passed 
beyond the influence of the malicious deity. 

Blushing with virtuous indignation at this barefaced 
calumny, Sophia no sooner reached the Blachern, than 
she commanded her officers to proceed with ladders, ropes 
and hammers, and to terminate at onee the libeller's 
career. This order, received with shouts of 7ro\v%po- 
Vl^etv (long live the Empress) from all the court ladies, 
was, it is said, obeyed with some reluctance by the men. 
Be this as it may, the statue was torn from its pedestal, 
broken, and cast into the sea; but the column was per- 
mitted to remain standing, and continued so until the 
year 155.3, when it was removed to embellish the interior 
of the Suleimanya*. 

Marcian's Column, erected about a.d. 455, consists of 
a plain shaft of red-grey Egyptian granite, which at first 
has the appearance of a monolith, but upon nearer inspec- 
tion proves to be composed of two pieces. It stands 
upon a base, formed of five quadrilateral slabs of white 

c * According to one tradition, women who passed this statue were in- 
strumental to their own exposure. Moved by irresistible impulse, they 
seized their own garments, and exposed thereby their own frailty. 



MARCIAN'S COLUMN. 259 

Marmora marble, each of different dimensions. The 
central block is about seven feet square. This block is 
ornamented on three sides with Greek crosses in circular 
medallions; on the western face are the calcined remnants 
of two genii, in alto relievo, supporting a globe. The 
inscription — 

Principis hanc statuam Marciani 

Cerne torumque ter vovit quod Tatianus opus — 

is engraved upon the western face of this block, and bears 
evidence of having been inserted with metal letters. The 
summit is surmounted by a Corinthian capital of white 
marble, the southern volutes of which are still nearly per- 
fect. Upon this rests a square block, and not a globe, 
as stated by Von Hammer, disproportionately large in 
appearance, sculptured at the angles with eagles. This 
probably served as a pedestal for Marcian's statue*. 
Von Hammer falls into error, when he contradicts Che- 
valier, who truly describes the shaft to be of granite. Of 
this there can be as little question as that the base and 
capital are of marble. 

The fires that repeatedly ravaged this populous quar- 
ter have severely injured the latter, but the shaft is 
intact. Although partially discoloured, it has escaped 
the process of whitewashing, to which all ancient monu- 
ments are subjected, among others, the Corinthian column, 
inside the harem ground of the old Seraglio, ascribed 
to Theodora, wife of Justinian, but more probably erected 
by Theodosius II., a.d. 440, and bearing the inscription, 
" Ob Devictos Gothos Fortune Reduci." When I 

* Marcian, a man of low origin, owed his elevation to his own merits. 
It was this Emperor who, when pressed by Attila for tribute, made the 
noble reply, " I reserve gold for my friends, steel for my foes." A 



260 ET MAIDANY. 

first visited the latter in 1841, the inscription was partly 
legible, though covered with many coats of whitewash; 
but a few months later all had disappeared under a thick 
plaster. 

Having inquired of our attendant, an officer of the 
Porte, the motives for this whitewashing mania, he at 
first replied "BUmem" (I know not); but thinking, 
presently, that he had wherewithal to confound us, he 
exclaimed, " Is not white a colour acceptable in God's 
eye? Is not this pillar of marble, and is not marble 
white? Is not outward cleanliness a symbol of inward 
purity? When your linen is dirty, do you not wash it? 
Oof! so it is with these things. 11 

In truth, however much Moslems may adhere to old 
customs and venerate old men, they find no charms in 
the rust of antiquity, or in preserving the picturesque 
moss of by-gone days. It is with difficulty that the 
directors of some Mosque Wakoofs have been prevented 
from whitewashing all the marble, porphyry, or verd- 
antique columns within these edifices. Some, indeed, 
have not escaped this fate. This contempt for antiques, 
or objects of vertu, is admirably illustrated by the Afri- 
can magician, who offers new for old lamps to Aladdin's 
bride. 

The neighbourhood of Marcian's Column tempts to 
further deviation from the direct course. By proceeding 
a few yards southward, and then turning to the left, the 
site of the once celebrated Et Maidany (meat place) will 
be reached. This spot, renowned in the annals of the 
Ottoman Empire, received its name from the distribution 
of food made to the troops. It was noted as the focus of 
military conspiracies and sanguinary revolts, and occu- 
pied a large portion of the reverse side of the fourth hill, 



ET MAID ANY. 261 

immediately beneath the southern colleges and courts of 
Sultan Mohammed II., by whom the vast janissary bar- 
racks were first erected. 

Not a vestige of these buildings or their extensive 
courts now remains, save one stone gate-pillar, and the 
ruins of the once splendid fountain erected by Suleiman 
the Great, repaired by Achmet I., and splendidly re- 
embellished by Mahmoud II. On ascending the throne, 
the latter cajoled and flattered the Janissaries, that he 
might lull all suspicion as to those intentions which he 
carried into effect eighteen years afterwards. When the 
order for destroying these unruly legions was proclaimed, 
the vast barracks, capable of lodging eighteen thou- 
sand men, together with all adjoining monuments or 
buildings that could record their existence, were included 
in the proscription. All that escaped the cannonade was 
devoured by fire, or abandoned to pillage. Never was 
destruction more complete, or extirpation more effectual. 
The immense space occupied, from the year 1453 to 
.1826, by these buildings, courts, fountains, and maga- 
zines, is now a wilderness; intersected by narrow, walled 
lanes, inclosing small tenements or gardens, the latter 
celebrated for artichokes. 

The solitude and desolate tranquillity of this spot, 
teeming with interesting historical recollections, now form 
a singular contrast to the bustle and warlike animation 
of ancient times. Then, in lieu of the earth sending 
forth verdant foliage, flowers, and fruits, it displayed the 
productive powers ascribed to the teeth of Cadmus. At 
a word, or a blow of the Janissary Agha's mace on the 
iron doors, thousands of armed men, ripe for war or 
revolt, poured forth, like hornets, from the adjacent 
corridors ; and the echo of their shouts carried terror 



262 ET MAIDANY. 

into the hearts, not only of their own sovereigns, but of 
distant potentates. 

All that remains at present is the fair prospect, which 
these tyrants of Sultans and people enjoyed from their 
southern windows. On ascending the mound of rubbish 
contiguous to the ruined fountain, a portion of these 
noble prospects meet the eve. Eastward may be seen the 
blue Propontis and the far distant Bithynian range ; west- 
ward appear the embattled towers and city walls, peering 
above the fruitful gardens of Yeni Baghtshy, through 
which the Lyons winds its muddy course. In front 
rises the northern flank of the seventh hill, crowned by 
the mosques of Djerrah Pasha and the celebrated 
Khasseky, near to which latter stand the calcined rem- 
nants of the Arcadian column, encircled by a multitude 
of fine mansions, embosomed in smiling groves and 
gardens. 

Anion fj these buildings is that called Tasli Konak 
(stone-house), belonging to the ancient family of Spanak- 
jee Zadeh (son of spinach-seller), whose founder, a re- 
nowned Mufty and jurisconsult, in the reign of Achmet I., 
■was, as his name indicates, the son of a poor spinach- 
grower, residing upon this spot. The first Eff'endy of 
this family raised himself to eminence by his own merits, 
and modestly retained the name of his father's trade. 
His descendants have more or less supported their ances- 
tor's reputation, by attaining distinguished offices in the 
corps of Oolema, and have also retained their original 
designation. 

The "stone-house, 11 a vast building, painted red, de- 
rived its name from the material with which it is con- 
structed. This is a rare exception at Constantinople, 
but a proof that stone is eventually more secure, and 



saddlers' magazine. 263 

thence more economical, than wood; for, whilst the sur- 
rounding houses and the whole quarter have been re- 
peatedly burned to the ground, the " stone-house, 1 ' 
emblem of the durability of the family, has remained 
intact. The quarter of Avret Bazary and Ak Serai, in 
the midst of which this mansion stands, is the favourite 
residence of Oolema and men appertaining to law and 
church. Thus it is that many of the most spacious and 
handsomest houses are to be found in this neighbour- 
hood. 

Eastward of the archway which surmounted the lower 
gate of the Shoemakers' Magazine, is a street occupied 
bv the second-rate saddlers attached to Sarradj Khana, 
into which there are three entrances on the southern and 
one upon the northern side. 

This bazar covers the site of the ancient cisterns, 
called Modestiaca by the Byzantines. It consists of a 
double line of shops, under colonnades supported by 
wooden pillars. Two sides are occupied by dealers in 
leather work of all kinds connected with saddlery and 
harness; a third is devoted to carpenters, who make 
saddle-trees and sanduk (baskets or paniers). The fourth 
is tenanted by those who cover these paniers with leather. 
The saddlers 1 repository is coeval with that of the shoe- 
makers 1 , and its members were endowed with similar 
privileges by the conqueror. The original building 
suffered the same fate as its neighbour. But, if it has 
lost in solidity, it has gained in picturesque disorder. 
Vine-covered trellises, clustering with fruit and verdant 
foliage, are agreeable substitutes for the vaulted roofs and 
lead-covered domes that formerly surmounted the four 
streets. 

The multitude and variety of articles produced by 



264 SADDLERS. 

the saddlers are peculiarly striking to those accustomed 
to the sober horse-furniture of Europe. Each of these, 
whether for the use of rich or poor, bears the type of 
orio-inalitv, and is more or less ornamented with coloured 
leather, cut and stitched in fantastic patterns, with cotton 
or silk tassels, metal bosses, rosettes, shell-work, glass 
beads, or gold and silver embroidery. All common 
articles, whether for saddle-horses or beasts of burden, 
are equally picturesque, and in harmony with the dress 
of riders and drivers, while the bridles, cruppers, martin- 
gals, and shabraques of the wealthy, are resplendent with 
embroidery and fanciful ornaments. 

As the Sultan invariably rides when he appears in public, 
the splendour of his charger's housings, and tho e of the 
led horses that precede him, surpasses all similar exhibi- 
tions in Europe*. The imperial shabraques, on ordi- 
nary occasions, are of scarlet or blue cloth, embroidered 
with gold; but on grand festivals they are of various 
colours, thickly studded with pearls, turquoises, and 
other precious stones, embedded in a crust of gold or 
silver embroidery. One of these shabraques, presented 
by the Emperor of Russia, was valued at twenty thousand 
silver rubles. 

The bridles, cruppers, and breast-plates are equally 
rich, and perfectly harmonize with the imperial rider's 
uniform. At Mevlood, 1843, the brilliants and precious 
stones ornamenting the Sultan's appointments, uniform, 
and mantle collar, were estimated at twenty-four thou- 
sand purses (about £110,000), exclusively of the dia- 
monds composing his nishan, the centre stone of which 



* Led horses only appear upon the great festivals of the two Beirams 
and Mevlood. 



SADDLERS. 265 

is a brilliant of rare size and lustre. The bits of all 
classes are clumsy, and of common plated or tinned 
metal, badly cleaned. Stirrups are generally of brass. 

The horse-furniture of all ranks, especially of grand 
dignitaries, is the only external remnant of ancient 
splendour. To this display the latter set no bounds, 
nor is there any apparent regulation limiting embroidery. 
Even the little children, who parade the streets on their 
ponies, are remarkable for their rich trappings. The 
saddlers are among the most numerous and wealthy 
corporations, and are connected with a variety of crafts, 
Avhose labour is necessary to the productions of the head 
branch. Within the memory of many Turkish gentle- 
men, the trade was so flourishing, and their repository so 
abundantly stored, that they could equip thirty thousand 
cavalry horses within twenty-four hours. At the present 
period it would be difficult for them to muster furniture 
for two thousand. As fashions are daily changing, and 
modifications are constantly made in military equipments, 
the saddlers now work only to order, keeping scarcely 
any stock but of common articles required for Tatars, 
postilions, and country people. 

The shops of bit, buckle, chain, and stirrup (oozenguy 
or rikeab) manufacturers, and of all other similar trades, 
are outside the repository, upon the summit of the adjoin- 
ing eminence. Stirrups are an important feature in 
oriental customs. The Sultan's levees at Beiram and 
Mevlood, at which period all privileged persons are 
permitted to kiss the imperial slipper, are called Rikeab, 

from its having been the custom in former days for war- 
es j 

like Sultans to hold public audiences, and even courts 
of justice, on horseback. Courtiers or appellants then 
dismounted and touched the imperial stirrup with their 

VOL. ill. N 



266 SADDLERS. 

lips. In more recent times, when Sultans appeared in 
public, vizirs, ministers, and others, not of the house- 
hold, waited on foot, outside the gate of the inner court, 
where they saluted the monarch as he sallied forth, and 
when he had passed mounted their horses. All, how- 
ever, are now admitted to the presence before or after 
the ceremony, and wait ready mounted in their proper 
places to precede the Sultan in the procession, whilst all 
officers actually attached to the palace follow the im- 
perial person. 

Some officers of the imperial household, whose province 
it was to attend immediately upon the monarch, were, 
and are still, called Rikeab Aghas, (stirrup lords), a 
title somewhat corresponding with our equerries. Among 
these are the officers of the master of the horse and 
grand chamberlain. The stirrup was, and is, considered 
a place of refuge. Should a man, flying from persecu- 
tion or even from justice, throw himself at the feet of 
a great person and seize his stirrup, this is held to be a 
sanctuary for the time being, and the individual thus 
solicited generally endeavours to intercede for the appli- 
cant. Injured persons have been known to fly for 
succour to the imperial stirrup, and to have thereby 
escaped from oppressors. 

It would be superfluous to describe the multifarious 
articles forming the staple of the trade; some few pro- 
ductions must however be enumerated. 

1. Eyer (saddles) of all shapes and denominations, 
from the elevated Tartar cushion to the plain European 
or English. The latter are imported ready made, or are 
finished by Greek and Armenian workmen, it being 
found difficult to induce Turks to handle any articles 
made from the hide of the unclean beast, which alone 



SADDLERS. 267 

remains nedgess (impure), in spite of tanning*. The 
form of the English saddle is generally introduced, but 
they are frequently covered with velvet or cloth neatly 
stitched. This covering is, however, of little import- 
ance, as the saddles of all functionaries, military and 
civil, are concealed by cloth shabraques, edged with 
broad lace. 

When masters dismount, their saiss (grooms), who 
walk by their side and carry a plain saddle or horse- 
cloth on their shoulder, throw the latter over the animal 
and thus preserve both horse and housings from wind 
and rain. The old-fashioned Turkoman saddle is prin- 
cipally confined to what are called "old Osmanlis, v> or 
to those who wear the ancient dress. In these cases a 
richly embroidered crupper cloth is used by the rich. 
Plainer cloths of coarse materials, but gaudy colours, 
are employed by inferior persons. Some old men ride 
upon the common pack-saddles, with ornamented quarter- 
cloths, and worsted cruppers of many colours. 

2. Diguin (bridles), used by those who have adopted 
the new dress, are generally of varnished leather, studded 
with a profusion of metal rosettes. The typical Asi- 
atic, or as we call them Mameluke bridles (deguin 
sheriffy), made of silk or worsted, and ornamented 
with many tassels, are principally limited to old Osmanlis 
or provincial people. They are, however, more grace- 
ful, and better suited to Eastern horses and riders, 
than the formal bridles of Europe recently imported. 
A handsome deguin sheriffy costs from fifty to sixty 
piastres without bit. 

S. Yoola (head-stalls) are sometimes of russia leather, 

* All other skins are rendered pure by this process. 

N 2 



268 SADDLERY. 

studded with small brass bosses. But the generality are 
made of strong untanned white leather. As horses are 
always tethered in stable, their heads are fastened short 
to the rack ; but more with a view of preventing their 
biting each other, than to obstruct their lying down. 

4. At Mooskassy (horse-amulets) are of various kinds 
and forms, but generally triangular. They are in uni- 
versal use. Scarcely a horse or beast of any kind is 
unprovided with one of these preventives against the 
evil eye. The common amulets consist of triangular 
pieces of ornamented leather, with small glass circles 
attached. They contain a charm, written upon a piece 
of paper, are suspended round the animal's neck by a 
thong, and hang between the fore-legs. One is useful, 
but three united are regarded as infallible. Some of a 
finer kind are circular, embroidered with a gold mashal- 
lah upon morocco leather. They are strapped round 
the neck, a little behind the ears. Those upon the 
Sultan's horses are worked with pearls and turquoises, 
and affixed with gold-embroidered thongs. 

5. Oortek (saddle-bags) for carrying wearing apparel, 
when travelling. They are of different sizes and ma- 
terials. Those placed under the rider's person are ge- 
nerally of strong carpet or black leather, ornamented 
with tassels and fanciful devices. Some are of russia 
leather (yooktan), large enough to form a load for a 
horse, or if necessary, for a camel. They are in universal 
use, and are more convenient for travelling than paniers 
or trunks, as they can be thrown across animals' backs 
and removed without difficulty. 

6. Matara (solid bottles of russia leather), for carry- 
ing water or other liquid, are sometimes plain and some- 
times ornamented with gold embroidery, tassels, and 



SADDLERY. 269 

glass beads. They form an essential article of travelling 
and camp equipment, both for drinking and ablutions. 
They require the addition of leather cups (tass), of 
which there are numerous varieties. 

7- Eynam kessy (pouches similar in form to those 
worn by hussars), are used for carrying Koorans, car- 
tridges, or letters. They are sometimes of red or blue 
velvet, richly embroidered, and cost as much as three 
hundred piastres. A large eynam kessy of rich materials 
is used for the conveyance of letters from one public 
office to another. This is suspended round the mes- 
senger's neck and hangs upon his chest. The bearer 
then has his arms and hands at liberty ; and the sight of 
these pouches serves as a warning for passengers to clear 
the way, especially if the bearer belong to the grand 
vizir or to any other great dignitary. In the time of the 
Janissaries, men were expected to salam these pouches. 

8. Sylahglyk (waist-belts), to which are attached two 
receptacles for pistols and straps for sabres. These, 
exclusively worn by Cavass, are more or less richly em- 
broidered. This finery, of which the cavass are as 
proud as they are of their sabres and pistols, does not 
well accord with their coarse red -grey uniforms, or the 
black worsted with which the latter are braided. Foreign 
legations generally attire their cavass in finer cloth, and 
dress them up with considerable display. Those of the 
British, French, Russian, and Austrian legations are 
most conspicuous ; but the most original of all these men 
is the worthy Mustafa, cavass to Mr. Cartwright. 

9. Hamayilla consist of four embroidered triangles, 
thence the name, surrounding a circular ornament taste- 
fully spangled. A written charm is placed in each 
compartment, and they are then sewed upon the top of 



270 SADDLERY. 

children's fez and worn as amulets. Their use is prin- 
cipally restricted to Albania, or to the Arnoot families 
of the capital. 

10. Shamdan Sofrassy (candle-tables) are circular 
pieces of leather, neatly stitched and embroidered, or 
studded with brass bosses. They are generally placed 
upon the floor, or upon divans or tables, as a rest for 
candlesticks, and to catch the wax or tallow that might 
otherwise fall on carpets or furniture. 

To the above we might add an endless variety of 
whips, straps, and ornamental articles for horses, mules, 
araba oxen, and other purposes, but we must hasten 
onward. 

The south-eastern side of the saddlers'* repository is 
exclusively occupied by seped sanduk manufacturers. 
These baskets are of various sizes and prices, but of 
uniform oval shape. They consist of strong wicker, 
tightly covered with brown leather, and made water- 
proof by strong varnish. They are ornamented with 
strips of red or yellow leather, and are furnished with 
locks. They are much used by travellers, and supply 
the place of wardrobes when at home. 

Panier-makers venerate Solomon as their patron. He 
it was, they say, who amused his leisure hours in the 
useful and innocent manufacture of baskets. But the 
art of covering these baskets with leather is supposed 
to have been invented at a much later period by an 
Afghan, named Seid Dabbaghy, who first introduced an 
improved system of curing skins — whence his name. 
This man, a disciple of the Prophet's, is patron of the 
tanners' company. 

Solomon, we are told, having discovered that Queen 
Balkis was untidy, and accustomed to cast her raiment 



SADDLERY. 271 

into corners, made for her several baskets, which he 
presented with a suitable admonition. This, it is to be 
hoped, cured her of habits not less unseemly in a palace 
than objectionable in a cottage. Balkis, if we were to 
trust eastern tradition, was a sad slattern in many re- 
spects — loose in morals and attire. 



272 



HORSE MARKET 




-cr*-. 

HORSE AT GRASS, (tCHAIR.) 



CHAPTER VII. 

HORSE-MARKET; HORSES; DOGS; BATHS; GATES OF 
THE SERAGLIO AND OF THE CITY. 



The western gate of Saradj Khana conducts into a 
street tenanted by dealers in harness and saddlery, 
required for beasts of burden. Some of these, such as 
cruppers, headstalls, and breastgirths, are neatly orna- 
mented with shells, coloured worsted, glass, and beads, 
and the shops are festooned with an infinite variety of 
amulets, to the virtues of which mule, ass, camel, and 
ox-drivers attach extraordinary faith. 

Among numerous original articles are the fronts, orna- 



tro 



HORSE MARKET. 27 

men ted with pieces of glass and tinsel, strapped over the 
faces of araba oxen, and the elastic poles adorned with 
pendent tassels, to which their tails are attached. These 
poles, fixed in the yoke, curve horizontally towards the 
hind quarters, and the tails being fastened thereto, per- 
sons sitting in the vehicle are not incommoded; much to 
the distress, however, of the fly-bitten beasts, deprived 
of the use of their natural flappers. 

These saddlers also sell small ornamented head-stalls 
for sheep and goats. The fondness of Orientals for pet 
lambs, sheep, and kids is demonstrated in various ways. 
These animals participate in their owners 1 love of finery, 
and are generally led by leather head-stalls, lined with 
coloured cloth, and ornamented with small pieces of 
glass. 

It is in this vicinity that some of the finest specimens 
of broad-tailed Caramanian sheep, purchased when lambs 
from Anatolian shepherds, may be seen. Some of these 
unsightly animals rise nearly three feet at the shoulder, 
and weigh from 100 to 120 pounds. Their fleeces are 
abundant, producing five or more pounds of coarse wool. 
The tails, giving upwards of twenty pounds of fat, are 
highly prized for cooking. 

The main street occupied by the above-mentioned 
trade leads into At Bazary (horse market), the southern 
side of which is bounded by the western extremity of 
Bozdoghan Kemary, which here disappears beneath the 
crest of the fourth hill. At Bazary consists of two small, 
irregular quadrangles, occupying a portion of the eastern 
face of the above hill, and connected by a narrow street, 
"which, as well as all other contiguous thoroughfares, is 
tenanted by horse-dealers. By a useful regulation of 
Mohammed II., the original founder of At Bazary, all 

n3 



274 IIORSrc MARKET. 

trades in any way connected with horses or beasts of 
draught and burden are grouped round this spot. Thus 
if a person purchase one or more horses, and should 
stand in need of equipment for war, travelling, or plea- 
sure, he has but to move a few yards, and he will rind all 
that is required. Besides saddlers, harness-makers, bit, 
chain, currycomb (kashgoo), stirrup, tether and padlock 
manufacturers, the adjoining streets are occupied by naal- 
bendjee (shoeing-smiths), naaljee, and mikhjee (horse- 
shoe and nail makers.)* 

The form of the Turkish horseshoe is totally opposed 
to our veterinary principles. It is nearly round, with 
an aperture in the centre, and the heelpart curves upward 
instead of downward, as with us. The projecting heads 
of the nails serve to prevent the animal from slipping, 
and are apparently effectual, as horses are more sure- 
footed than with us. The ends of the nails are turned 
over, beaten down, and slightly rasped. The shoes are 
thin, but last a fair time, and are less liable to be cast, 
as the extremities of the nails are not short filed. 

The mode of shoeing is nearly similar to that practised 
in Germany. The animal's head being well secured, one 
man supports the foot with a cord passed under the fet- 
lock, whilst the other pares the hoof, and affixes the shoe, 
always put on cold. When horses are unruly, the com- 
mon stable tether, drawn tight, is employed, to prevent 
kicking and plunging, and sometimes recourse is had to 
the nose-twitch. The cost of shoeing a horse all round is 
eight piastres. Smiths of all kinds venerate David as 

* The coincidence of the word naal with our nail might lead an ety- 
mologist to derive the latter from that word; but naal, or na-alin, strictly 
means a clog or horse-hoof. The Perso-Turkish word pai comes near 
the French word pied and its Latin root. 



HORSE MARKET. 275 

their saint. But the direct patron of the naal-bendjee is 
a disciple and contemporary of the Prophet's, named 
Khisr, nearly as much renowned for his strength and 
valour as was Keaby, the celebrated blacksmith of 
Ispahan, whose apron was converted into a banner, and 
served as a rallying point to the Persian patriots, when 
they defeated and dethroned the tyrant Dahhak. 

Khisr never aspired, however, to higher honours 
than those of glorifying the Kooran to all who fre- 
quented his smithy, and of carefully shoeing Duldul, 
the Prophet's favourite mare*. This animal, supposed 
to be descended from the steeds of Solomon and David, 
was so patient in temper, so gentle in its paces, and yet 
so swift withal, that when it ambled by the different 
praying stations at Mecca, all these chapels appeared as 
one to the rider. This merit is also said to have been 
possessed, in a similar degree, by Ghazal, the favourite 
charger of the great Shah Abbas, which ambled so fast, 
that his imperial rider, in passing the " Forty column" 
palace of Ispahan, was always tempted to imagine that 
thirty-nine had been removed. 

This ambling pace, called tchavkin, is highly esteemed, 
especially during long journeys, notwithstanding its want 
of grace and elasticity. The pace is partly artificial, 
and is taught by Arnoot jockies. It is not often met 
with among well-bred horses. Mehemet Ali Pasha, of 
Tophana, frequently mounts a Bosnian galloway, gifted 
to an extraordinary degree with this pace. It can amble 
at the rate of ten miles an hour, and maintain its speed 
during that time. It is matter of surprise, that Duldul, 
whose perfections and good services to the Prophet are 

* Some authorities affirm that Duldul was a mule. 



276 HORSE DEALERS. 

recorded bv various traditions, should not have been 
allowed a place among beatified animals, especially as 
Kytmr, the dog of the seven sleepers, and Jonah's 
whale, both unclean, are said to enjoy this privilege. 

The two squares called At Bazary, sometimes mis- 
taken for At Maidany, have nothing to recommend them 
in point of architecture or position. They consist of 
two oblong quadrangles, about eighty yards long and 
fifty broad, almost impassable during winter, from the 
mass of stagnant filth accumulated in the centre, and 
from the broken causeways by which they are surrounded. 
The middle of the upper square is ornamented by a heavy 
fountain, and a few trees are planted in the other. The 
dealers' 1 stables, interspersed with sheds of arabajees, 
who let out arabas and kotchys, occupy the sides. The 
whole is inappropriate for trying or showing horses : con- 
sequently, the animals are generally conducted for this 
purpose to an open space, south of the shoemakers' 
repository, to the At Maidany, or to the road outside the 
Adrianople gate. 

Turkish horse-dealers' 1 stables display neither order nor 
neatness. The inside consists of a spacious low shed, 
with racks and mangers, without intervening stalls, bails, 
or pavement. The entrance is by a large door, fenced 
with a coarse -woollen curtain, stretched upon horizontal 
laths. The door is left open in summer, but the curtain 
always remains, serving as a protection against flies. The 
animals stand back to back, at a fair distance from each 
others heels. They are not allowed other litter than the 
scrapings from the floor, dried in the sun, and scattered 
beneath them at night; but this is nearly superfluous, as 
horses rarely lie down. Their four legs are invariably 
secured by horse-hair tethers, attached to a cord affixed 



HORSE DEALERS. 277 

to an iron pin driven into the mud floor, about four feet 
from their heels, and the head-stall is chained to the 
manger. They are warmly clothed at all seasons, and 
fed with barley and trodden straw : hay, scarce and bad, 
is rarely given*. 

Contiguous to the door is a raised platform. After 
inspecting horses within the stable, and having seen them 
run through the mud outside, purchasers seat themselves 
upon these platforms, where they are served with coffee 
and pipes and discuss bargains. Opposite to this plat- 
form is another of the same kind, where the stablemen 
spread their beds. 

The At Bazargany (horse-dealers) are mostly Alba- 
nians, and their stable-men gipsies. They conjointly 
sustain the reputation for roguery so pre-eminently en- 
joyed by their craft in Europe. Hay and corn dealers 
have their magazines at Tophana, the Fanar, Oon Kapou, 
and near the Imperial stables. Hay is brought in coasting 
craft from the meadows clothing the valleys that open into 
the Bosphorus, and from the plains south of the city. But 
the supply and demand are limited. The universal practice 
of turning out horses to graze (tchaira geundermek) dur- 
ing spring, cuts off the first crop. Violent heats, want of 
dew, and neglect of irrigation, would prevent the growth 
of second crops, even if the right of free pasturage did 

* The daily ration allowed by dealers, and in private stables, is nearly 
similar to that of the cavalry ; it consists of three and a half okas (ten 
pounds) of barley, and six okas (sixteen pounds) of trodden straw. The 
former is sold retail at seven piastres the kilo or half hundred weight, and 
the latter at twenty paras the oka, so that the daily cost for feeding a 
horse may be set down at sixpence. The wages of a saiss and contingent 
expenses may be rated at two hundred piastres per month, so that, sup- 
posing a man to keep two horses, the daily expense does not exceed 
fourteenpence each, including groom. 



278 sultan's horses at grass. 

not exist over uninclosed lands, after the first is cleared or 
grazed off. The period for sending out horses to the 
meadows or grazing camp (tchair), is about the 1st of 
May, old style. But this period may be anticipated or 
delayed bv the calculations of the niunedjim bashy, 
■whose duty it is to select a propitious day, when the in- 
fluence of Nazr (the evil eye) is least pernicious. 

The ceremony of conducting the Sultan's stud to pas- 
ture in the valley of the European Sweet Waters (Kihat 
Khana) constitutes an important court ceremony, re- 
stricted, however, to the Imperial household. The pre- 
sence of strangers, or of old women, is looked upon with 
little satisfaction, from fear lest misfortune might befal 
the animals, through the evil that is supposed to lurk 
beneath the eye-lids of "hatwearers" and toothless 
dames. On the day appointed for the ceremony, the officers 
of the Buyuk Imrakhor's department, many black Aghas 
who are great admirers of horse-flesh, and other privi- 
leged persons, assemble at the imperial stables, where the 
Master of the Horse, or his deputy, selects such horses 
as are to be reserved for the Sultan's summer riding, and 
directs the remainder to be prepared for pasture. 

This is done forthwith, and without any preparatory 
dosing. Each animal is provided with tethers, picket- 
cords, picket and coarse cloths, which completely cover 
chest, body, and tail. Their heads and necks are then 
adorned with several mooskas (amulets), to secure them 
from nazr*. 

* The dread entertained for the evil eye is by no means monopolized by 
Orientals. The cattivo occhio of Italy is as much feared as nazr in 
Turkey, and the j3a<TKavia of the ancient Greeks finds most unlimited 
imitation in the ^aa-Koiaafia of the modern Hellenes. Indeed, the latter are 
infinitely more superstitious and fearful of its effects, both upon their 
children, horses, and cattle, than the most ignorant Osmanlis. The 



SULTAN'S HORSES AT GRASS. 279 

All things being ready, the Buyuk Imrakhor, his offi- 
cers and attendants, mount their horses and proceed 
towards the kioshk, where the Sultan, seated behind the 
trellice-work blind, awaits their passage. The animals 
are then taken forth, each led by its own groom. The 
string, consisting of from seventy to eighty horses, the 
greater part "• pure-veined" Arabs, or of the choicest 
Turcoman breeds, first passes slowly before the Sultan, 
preceded by a military band and escort, and followed by 
a troop of Bulgarians, playing upon bagpipes, and beat- 
ins; small kettle-drums. The latter have charge of the 
meadows, and on this occasion are entitled to the privi- 
lege of singing and capering before the Sultan, who libe- 
rally requites their bearlike exertions. 

During the time that the animals are at grass, they 
are tethered and picketed by the near fore-leg in circles, 
with their heads inwards, at a distance of some twenty 
yards from each other. The grazing period lasts about 
six weeks, during which time they are watched by the 
Bulgarian meadow -keepers, their own grooms, and a 
guard of soldiers, all encamped under green tents. The 
grass being consumed, the Master of the Horse arrives, 
and the stud is led home in processional pomp. 

It was formerly customary for the Minister of the In- 
terior (Kihaya Bey), to give a splendid entertainment to 
the Grand Vizir, Kizlar Aghassy, Master of the Horse, 
and some other official persons upon this day ; but that 
expensive ceremony fell into disuse with the abolition of 

Romans entertained the same superstition, as shown hy Plutarch, 
Pliny, and by the well-known line in Virgil's third eclogue. 
" Nescio quis teneros oculus mihi fascinat agnos." 
Nazr corresponds exactly with the jettatore, and mooskas with the 
coral hands of Italy. One superstition is as respectable as the other. 



280 HARVEST HOME 

the office of the Kihaya Bey, now consolidated with that 
of the Grand Vizir. During the grazing season, the 
Bosphorus valleys present an animated spectacle. All 
are filled with horses, and dotted with green tents — the 
former revelling in luxuriant herbage, and the inmates 
of the latter enjoying uninterrupted kief, amid the fra- 
grance of the flower-clad meadows, their ears regaled 
with the harmony of nightingales, and their eyes rejoiced 
with enchanting prospects. 

Notwithstanding the limited crops resulting from 
causes already assigned, hay-harvest is a season of rejoi- 
cing, and the " harvest-home" a festival for the Bulgarian 
peasants, who are the principal cultivators on both shores 
of the Bosphorus*. The process of hay-making is rapid. 
It is spread as soon as mowed ; then tossed, turned, 
raked up, and housed, or embarked for sale, within 
twenty-four hours. The last cart or horse loads are 
decorated with green boughs, fragrant wild flowers, 
coloured handkerchiefs, and other finery. The Bulgarian 
harvest-men, with their wives and children, follow or 
precede in groups, grotesquely capering and thumping 
their sheep-skin caps on the ground, so that they rebound 
like bladders, to the drones of most discordant bagpipes. 

A feast is then given by the farmer. This consists of 
mutton-broth, roasted sheep's heads, a good pilaf, curds, 
cheese, abundance of sour wine, fiery raki, or besotting 
booza, of which two latter fluids these bearlike men will 
engulph startling quantities'!" . The feast is interspersed 
with songs, music, and dancing, in which the women 
play a conspicuous part, and this not ungracefully. The 

* Hay is sold by the oka (two and one-third pounds), for twenty paras, 
on an average. 

f Booza is a pulpy decoction of fermented grain* 



AND GRAZING SEASON. 28 L 

dance is somewhat similar to the Romaika, though less 
vivacious. It is performed in a circle, holding each 
other's hands. It principally consists in balancing the 
person first on one leg and then on the other ; now 
advancing, now retreating, and then striking each other's 
uplifted hands with considerable force. 

During the week preceding the pasture season and 
Greek Easter, the streets of Constantinople and its suburbs 
are thronged with small parties of these Bulgarians, dressed 
in the sheep-skin caps and coarse cloth vests which form 
their constant attire. They come from the valleys, within 
a radius of forty miles, to bring lambs and kids for the 
Christian Easter, and to offer their services to guard 
horses at grass. In the mean time, they wander in groups 
through the streets, performing uncouth gambols to the 
noise of their own harsh voices and discordant bagpipes. 
These pleasing melodies are interlarded with pressing 
solicitations for money. On these occasions, the Bulga- 
rians leave their wives at home ; whereas the female 
tchinganny are alone sent to beg, while the men remain 
at the camp, where they pursue their usual avocations of 
shoeing- smiths and tinkers. Sometimes, however, they 
follow the less laborious avocations of musicians and jug- 
glers, at the coffee-houses and places of public kief. 

Gipsies in Turkey (tsinganny or tchinganny), as in 
England, busy themselves with horse-dealing — a toler- 
ably lucrative trade, as they are notorious for stealing 
half the animals they offer for sale, and escape detection 
by removing to great distances, or by disfiguring and 
changing the animal's appearance — an art which they 
possess in high perfection. They are consequently called 
djanbaz, which, among other significations, means a 
"horse-charmer." 



282 THE SULTAN'S STUD, 

"These djanbaz are so expert," said a horse-dealer, 
"that, were Borak to fall into their hands, they would 
disfigure him so that Allah himself would not recognise 
his face or his tail*." 

There is no portion of the East, perhaps, where fewer 
high-bred horses are to be met with for sale than at Con- 
stantinople, or where prices for all tolerable horses are 
more extravagant. There are no studs, no breeders, at 
all events, no improvers of horses, among Pashas or rich 
proprietors. When Arabs or first class Turkomans are 
met with for sale, they are generally disposed of for 
some vice or defect, by those who have brought them 
from Syria or the interior of Asia. Dealers do not im- 
port valuable animals on speculation, being unwilling to 
incur the risks of land or sea journeys and the expense 
of first outlay. The Sultan's private stud, that is, the 
saddle horses reserved for his own special use, consists, 
however, of some sixty high-bred Arabs and Turkomans, 
named, as customary in the imperial stables, after the 
persons who have presented or purchased them, prefixed 
to the colour; as for example, the Grand Vizir's grey, 
the Capudan Pasha's chestnut, &c. 

These animals are, for the most part, presents from the 
Syrian, Bagdad, Erzeroum, and Diarbekir Pashas, or 
from grand dignitaries of state. Some, and these perhaps 
the most valuable, are from Mehemet Ali of Egypt, and 
from the Druse, Maronite and Arab Sheikhs or Emirs, 
of the Lebanons. Of these, some twenty are kept apart, 
and are not easily accessible to strangers. They are 
those for which the Sultan entertains special predilection, 

* Borak is supposed to have the face of a woman and the tail of a 
peacock, with the body of a blood-horse. It carried Mohammed during 
his miraculous journey. 






THE SULTAN'S STUD. 283 

either on account of their figure, paces, or fortunate 
marks and colours. 

Among them are a milk-white Arab, called Mohammed 
Ali Pasha Kyrry, presented, as its name indicates, by 
the Vizir of Egypt — a beautiful animal, whose noble 
forms are well set off by the crimson and gold hangings 
with which he is caparisoned, when mounted by the Sultan; 
a light bay, with three white legs, nearly sixteen hands 
high, named Izet Mohammed Kizil-Yaghus, an offering 
from that Pasha when Grand Vizir ; a coal black, named 
Omer Pasha Etthemy, given by the late governor of the 
Lebanon; a bright chestnut, named Emir HanjiarKoyoiral, 
given by the celebrated chief of the Arabs of Balbec ; 
a cream-colour, with black mane and tail, called Nejib 
Pasha Koolassy, presented by that notorious and incor- 
rigible satrap, whilst Governor of Damascus ; a dappled 
grey, with brown spots, named Ali Reza Bakla-Kirry, 
given by the ex-Pasha of Bagdad. Horses of this last 
colour are thus called from the supposed resemblance of 
their coats to the bean-flower. 

The custom of giving names to horses is general. 
Sometimes these names are merely indicative of breeds 
or tribes, such as Nedgid Kooyalan, Hoorneyer, Turco- 
man, or Myssry (Arabs reared in Egypt). Sometimes 
they are named after heroes of eastern romance, such 
as Antar, Duldul (the Prophet's famous mare), Pervyz 
Roostam (the battle-horse of Pervyz was so called), 
Gulguioon or Gulshah — sometimes they bear the names 
of animals, such as Arslan (Lion), Ghazal (Gazelle), or 
Gueyk (Stag) — sometimes, and this most frequently, 
they are designated, as aforesaid, after their colours or 
peculiar marks, such as Kumayt (chestnut), Koolah 
(roan), Kuloos (ball or silver face), Bady saba (with white 
star on forehead), Demir Kirry (iron grey). 



284 HORSES. 

The favourite colours are grey, bay, and chestnut; and 
the animal's value is enhanced when its legs, mane, and 
tail are dark. Pure black horses are not esteemed, as 
they are said to be hot and hard-mouthed. Superstition 
attaches importance to peculiar marks and spots. These 
marks augment or diminish the value of the finest-shaped 
and most thorough-bred animals. The most un propi- 
tious marks are the kabrymeftooh (spoil beauty), caused 
by the hair rising in a cross direction, or feather, on the 
forehead, and forming two vertical stars. The tchifta 
(pair), the same spots appearing horizontally. The 
letama (the slap or box on the ear) is a spot either on the 
cheek or shoulder, denuded of hair, and the kara goosh 
(vulture), a black or white mark on the round bone of 
the thigh. On the other hand, when horses have large 
white marks on the fetlock of the off fore leg, or upon 
either of the hind legs, or a smooth star on the forehead, 
their value increases, these being auspicious marks. 
Stocking horses are also much esteemed. An ancient 
Turkish proverb thus defines their value : one white 
leg, one purse ; two, two purses ; three, four purses ; but 
four white legs, a para: the fourth white leg destroys the 
charm. 

Thick tails and coarse manes are regarded as great 
blemishes and indications of impure blood ; but wall 
eyes, especially those of duns, creams, and roans are 
esteemed as fortunate beauties. The tails and manes of 
some grey horses are tinged orange with henna; but the 
fashion is abandoned by the higher orders. On the 
other hand, the tails are now frequently cut square with 
the bone, a small tuft being left pendent in the centre. 
Mares are seldom purchased for riding. They are found 
inconvenient in the stable ; and, moreover, the Arabs 






HORSES. 285 

rarely sell those of superior blood. Geldings (beguir) 
are often seen. They are common at present in the 
cavalry and artillery. 

When the Sultan rides out privately, a constant prac- 
tice during fine weather, his retinue consists of half a dozen 
household officers and one of the chief black Aghas. A 
piquet of ten or twelve lancers follow on horseback, and 
two or three picked men of the body guard, armed with 
muskets, attend on foot. The pace is rarely beyond a 
walk or amble. Strangers are much surprised at this 
simplicity, so discordant with European ideas of Oriental 
splendour. But no monarch is probably more completely 
secure from those atrocious attempts so common in 
France, and from those dastardly assaults, which, under 
the plea of monomania, find quasi impunity and encou- 
ragement before English law. 

When Vizirs or other great men ride for business or 
to pay visits, they are generally followed by some 
three or four attendants on horseback ,• one of these in- 
variably carries the pipe in a cloth cover, and another his 
portfolio. A saiss always walks at their side, and perhaps 
a couple of cavass follow on foot. Persons of inferior 
rank are followed by a pipe-bearer, and perhaps a second 
servant, as well as a saiss. Riding for mere pleasure is 
unknown; and, since the noble game of the djerid has 
fallen into disuse, there are no places of assembly, where 
men meet to exhibit their horses'' speed or their own skill in 
equitation. When the Osmanlis of Stambol adopted the 
bastard Frank attire, they cast aside half their energy 
and all their picturesque and poetical appearance. It 
remains to be proved whether they have obtained other 
equivalents. 

The dealers of At Bazary draw their principal sup- 



286 horses. 

plies from Bosnia, Bulgaria, Servia, and from various 
parts of Roomelia, Moldavia, and YVallachia, which pro- 
vinces also furnish the cavalry and artillery remounts. 
The average price allowed for the former is about 8/., 
and for the latter 10/. Horses for the Guards, some- 
what larger and better-bred, are purchased in Thessaly 
and Albania, where more attention is paid to improving 
the breed ; 12/. is allowed for them. Some superior 
animals may here and there be seen, especially in the 
squadron of negroes attached to the First Lancers. On 
the whole, both cavalry and artillery are under-horsed: 
nevertheless, these weak and ill-conditioned animals 
endure extreme fatigue, and perform marches that would 
destroy the finest European cavalry. Kits and arms 
are light, however, and the men small and spare ; thus 
Turkish troopers rarely ride above fifteen stone. 

Dealers' 1 stables are open at all hours, and auctions 
are held every morning from eight to mid-dav. The 
horses are then led out by suredjee, and the delal (crier) 
calls out prices, and performs the functions of auctioneer. 
The average price for sound country-bred hacks is about 
one thousand piastres; but this depends upon numerous 
contingencies. All that can be said is, that Constanti- 
nople is the last place in the Sultan's dominions where 
strangers can expect to procure good horses for less than 
35/. to 40/., whilst 80/. to 120/. are asked for those of 
superior quality. 

Among the most remarkable studs of Stambol in 1843 
were those of Mustafy Noory, ex -General-in -chief ; 
Tahir, ex-Capudan Pasha; Halil, brother-in-law to 
the Sultan; Riza, Grand Marshal, Commander-in-chief, 
and Colonel-general of the household troops*; Moham- 

* This adroit and fortunate Pasha, after inducing the Sultan to abolish 



HORSES. 287 

med AH of Tophana, Master-general of Artillery; Hafiz, 
the unsuccessful commander of Nejib; Moosa, Minister 
of Finance; Omer, ex-Governor of the Lebanon; Diar- 
bekir Reschid, and the well-known Rescind Pashas. 
The family of Duz Oglou, the wealthy Armenian 
banker, and some others of the same nation, are cele- 
brated for their stables. The Duz Oglou have no ob- 
jection to sell, but their prices are exorbitant. 

Country-bred horses, though small, and possessing no 
external recommendation, are remarkable for their en- 
durance and surefootedness. In the long post stations, 
frequently met with in the interior, they will continue a 
hand-gallop for nine or ten hours, without stopping more 
than once to breathe and refresh. They will gallop 
over the most broken ground, and clamber or descend 
mountain paths that appear impracticable. If the earth 
should give way, or other accident cause them to roll 
over subjacent slopes or declivities, they generally con- 
trive to alight at the bottom without material injury, and 
this in places menacing utter destruction. 

Horses are employed for drawing the vehicles called 
cotchys or telekas, and for European carriages, but white 
or grey oxen (eukooz) are exclusively used for arabas, 
and red oxen, or buffaloes (djumbat), for carts and agri- 
cultural purposes. The Sultan has a numerous stud of 
carriage horses, some of them Transylvanian and German, 
but all wanting figure and action. Some Pashas have 
also three or more pair of coach-horses, and one or two 
are driven four in hand. Mounted drivers, though 
common in Wallachia and Moldavia, are unknown on 

the office of Serasker, in the winter of 1842, persuaded his Highness to 
re-establish it in the autumn following, and to appoint him to that influ- 
ential post. 



288 HORSES AND STABLES. 

the right bank of the Danube. Thus Lady Canning's 
well-appointed equipage, drawn by four greys, with two 
trim-leathered postilions, excited many exclamations of 
surprise and admiration among the Turkish population. 
In return, strangers cannot fail to admire the beautiful 
ponies mounted by the youthful sons of Turkish gentle- 
men. These little animals, active, spirited, and richly 
caparisoned, are in general use. They are for the most 
part imported from Mytelene, and are designated by the 
name of that island. 

In addition to the horses reserved for the Sultan's ex- 
clusive use, the imperial stables contain some two hun- 
dred for the service of the household, especially for that 
of the black aghas — all great horse-fanciers, and for the 
most part good and bold riders, until excessive obesity 
spoils their figures and seats. There is nothing in the 
management of the Sultan's stables to distinguish 
them from those of ordinary individuals. The clothing 
is of common rug, ornamented with coloured worsted 
knots. The animals are tethered in the usual manner, 
and the grooming, feeding, and exercising, are iden- 
tical. 

The general system is to curry the animals lightly 
with a rough kashgoo (currycomb), and afterwards to 
rub them with a horse-hair cloth, soon after dawn. They 
are then watered and exercised for half an hour. After 
this they receive their feed of barley and chopped straw, 
and are again rubbed and left to repose. The feeds are 
repeated four times daily, under the inspection of an 
officer of the horse department — the last time about the 
hour of fifth prayer, when they are secured for the night. 
Water is allowed twice in winter and thrice in summer; 
and they are freely exercised in the afternoon, and then 



VETERINARY PRACTICE. 289 

curried and rubbed*. Feet are little attended to, never 
washed, rarely picked, but sometimes oiled. The com- 
plete bar-shoe is supposed to obviate all necessity for 
care. Mashes and spices are not used as in India. 

The art of farriery practised by Bulgarians and gipsies 
is in its infancy. Bleeding is, however, freely resorted 
to in inflammatory cases, and external fomentations are 
applied in cases of bruises or luxations; but medicine is 
rarely administered inwardly, and perhaps horses are the 
better for the negative system. A veterinary school has 
been recently established at the Scutari cavalry barracks, 
under the direction of a Prussian practitioner; and a class 
for this branch has been introduced at Galata Serai 
Academy. 

The prevalent diseases in cavalry and artillery stables 
are glanders and farcy, which formerly committed great 
ravages ; for it was but lately that officers could be in- 
duced to allow glandered horses to be separated from 
others in a healthy state, or removed when in the last 
stage. They were left to die in their places, or were 
merely dragged forth at the last gasp to the adjacent 
cemetery or rubbish ground, where they were torn to 
pieces and devoured by the countless dogs, sometimes 
before life was completely extinct. At present diseased 
horses are immediately removed to the infirmary, 
where a soldier from each troop attends to learn far- 
riery. 

The vicinity of cavalry, and indeed of all barracks, 
would become intolerable from dead horses and ajr^lome- 
rations of filth, were it not for the multitude of doo-s that 

* The currycomb consists of a piece of thin sheet iron, arched to fit 
the hand. The edges are roughly barbed. This kashgoo is lightly 
used at all seasons. 

VOL. III. O 



290 DOGS. 

congregate and multiply their species beneath the ad- 
jacent walls and hollows. At present nothing escapes 
their voracity. In less than twelve hours after a horse 
has fallen, not a vestige remains of its carcase. 

The number of dogs, and their uninterrupted noise at 
night, have been mentioned by all travellers. In some 
quarters they are certainly most inconvenient; but their 
utility is incontestable. For my own part, I was always 
more disposed to encourage and make friends with the 
impure purifyers haunting the neighbourhood of my own 
abode, than to assail and wantonly beat them, as is the 
constant habit both of strangers and Christian residents. 
The poor brutes, the ugliest perhaps of their species in 
the suburbs, appeared grateful for these advances. They 
looked up thankfully by day, knowing that I should not 
disturb their repose, as they cowered for shelter be- 
neath the adjacent walls or tombstones; and by night 
thev greeted me with good-humoured tokens of recog- 
nition, and escorted me to my door. This was their 
return, not solely for my abstaining from ill usage^ but 
for a few paras 1 worth of black bread, cast to them now 
and then from the window. 

The number of street dogs has much diminished in 
Pera, where, whether innocent or guilty, sleeping or 
waking, they are constantly exposed to the clubs, sword- 
sticks, and lapidations of Christian passengers. I say 
Christians, for Turks never maltreat them, nor proceed 
beyond the repressive exclamation "usht" (away), which 
the animals rarely disobey. In extreme cases, a Turk will 
pick up a stone, of which projectiles the dogs stand in 
more awe than of clubs and sharp weapons. It suffices to 
stoop and search for a stone to put the most obstinate to 
flight; whereas the sight of a stick increases their fury, 



DOGS. 291 

and causes the whole tribe belonging to the street to sally 
forth*. 

The dogs of Pera, finding no mercy, have in some mea- 
sure deserted the streets and lateral alleys for the open 
space beyond the taksim. But some few are invariably 
seen round the doors of all koolooks (guard-houses), where 
they repay protection by devouring refuse cast to them 
after meals, and by aiding the sentries to keep watch. 
The multitude of these animals near the artillery bar- 
racks, for the most part scarred, limping, and torn, from 
the effects of perpetual civil wars, surpasses all belief. 
Two hundred and fifty or more may be seen congregated 
towards sunset upon the brow of the mound fronting the 
grand entrance. 

After evening mess, the soldiers convey all scouring, 
bones, and scrapings, in their kettles, and throwing them 
over the edge of the mound, they are instantly lapped 
up by the different gangs of dogs, amidst most ravenous 
struggles, now and then interrupted by the intrusion of 
the meagre cows that wander around. Although livino» 
in a sort of federal community, or republic — worthy 
emblem of that mode of government — the dogs appear 
to be divided into tribes, and to obey distinct chiefs. 
So tenacious are they of their peculiar territory and feed- 
ing-ground, that none can with impunity intrude upon 
the filth-heaps of others. When females produce youno-, 
they also breed up their whelps within their own dis- 
tricts; so that the puppies soon learn to know their own 
territory, and to distinguish the dogs of their tribe, be- 
fore they are compelled to shift for themselves. In the 

* Two words extremely useful to bear in mind upon landing at Pera 
are " na'ide',' ' or "guit" (go, begone), as a repellent for beggars ; and " usht, " 
as a peremptory warning to dogs. 

2 



292 DOGS. 

mean time multitudes of puppies perish. Were it not 
for this, their numbers would exceed that of the popula- 
tion. 

Friendless, houseless, and maltreated, exposed to all 
the vicissitudes of temperature, feeding upon the foulest 
and most putrescent matter, sometimes starving, some- 
times gorged, constantly fighting and wrangling, bruised 

Oc5 7 - O © OCT* 

and maimed, the natural result, one might imagine, 
would be a tendency to hydrophobia. Yet, although 
cases of this kind have been known, they are extremely 
rare — more rare than in temperate climates, where dogs 
are wholesomely fed and carefully housed. It is difficult 
to account for this phenomenon. It cannot be ascribed 
to the difficulty of procuring water, as instances of hydro- 
phobia constantly occur in Europe, where the supply is 
abundant and animals enjoy the faculty of bathing. 
Melancholy instances of this are constantly seen with us 
among lap-dogs, tended with solicitude equalling that 
bestowed on children. It would appear then as if con- 
stant exposure to cold, heat, rain, and snow, were in 
itself a preventive, and that meagre diet, combined with 
unrestrained liberty and communication of the sexes, are 
more efficient antidotes than regular food and shelter. 
It is possible also that the breed of dogs is more primi- 
tive and less tender or susceptible of organic derange- 
ment than more pure and artificial bred races. 

Be this as it may, a mad dog (koodoormish keupek) 
may be considered as rare in Turkey as a suicide. This 
is a fortunate dispensation. From the aversion of Turks 
to destroy animals, the whole city might otherwise be 
desolated with this terrible malady. It is affirmed, on 
the other hand, by many old Turks, that dogs them- 
selves are endowed with a marvellous instinct of self-pre- 



DOGS. 293 

servation. "They seem to be aware," say they, " when 
animals of their species are about to be afflicted with this 
disease, and, losing no time, they fall upon the doomed 
brute, and in a few seconds tear it to pieces." 

It is not easy to assign any special type to these dogs, 
though, from constant reproduction among themselves, 
they may be said to form a distinct class. Their origin 
may be traced, perhaps, to a mixture of the prick-eared 
shepherd (tchoban keupeky) and common wolf-dog. 
Some of them resemble lynxes and others wolves so 
nearly, in form, gait, and colour, as to lead to a suppo- 
sition that they have been crossed with these animals, 
which abound in the Belgrade forests. The prevailing 
colour of the Constantinople dog is a red grey or red 
brown. In some quarters, the small burying-ground near 
the Hellenic Chancery, for instance, they are exclusively 
black-brown. Each quarter appears to have its peculiar 
tint. 

Although strangers are grievously disturbed by the 
barkings of these animals at night, residents are little 
incommoded. Instead of seeking to destroy them, all 
Turks and many Rayas protect the new-born puppies, by 
placing old baskets, mats, or stones, as a shelter for 
mothers and litters. When it is desired to get rid of a 
young brood in an overdogged quarter, nothing is more 
easy. All that is required is to employ a tchopjee. 
These industrious men, mostly Armenians from the pro- 
vinces, perform the same duties as the Parisian chiffon- 
niers. They are paid a trifle by householders for 
each basket of rubbish removed from their premises. 
These they carry to the harbour or sea side, where, 
after extracting rags, shavings, pieces of paper, broken 
glass, &c, they cast the remainder into the current. 



294 DOGS. 

Upon giving ten paras per head for each puppy, these 
men will carry off' inconvenient litters, and cither deposit 
them in some distant quarter, or dispose of them in the 
Bosphorus. 

Some gentlemen of our embassy at Therapia be- 
thought themselves of an efficacious and humane mode 
of diminishing the number of dogs, whose bowlings and 
barkings upon the narrow quay disturbed their diplo- 
matic slumbers. Instead of directing the animals to be 
destroyed or maltreated, they offered a premium for 
each dog seized alive and brought to the embassy 
kavass, who forthwith embarked and transported thein 
to the opposite coast. It was necessary, however, to 
renounce this plan ; for, so soon as Therapia was cleared 
of its canine inhabitants, the preventive agents earried 
their researches as far as Yenikouy and other adjacent 
villages, and, seizing upon all stray dogs, let them loose 
near the embassy, whereby they levied a continued tax 
upon our worthy countrymen. 

These gentlemen probably took their hint from the 
renowned Nassoun Pasha, grand vizir in 1C09 to Ach- 
met I., whose superstition and blind confidence in judi- 
cial astrology was only surpassed by his unmitigated 
tyranny. Having fallen asleep during a morning sitting 
of the council, this vizir suddenly awoke, and with signs 
of extreme trepidation dismissed his colleagues, and sent 
for the munedjim bashy. After a long consultation with 
this functional-; 7 , Nassoun first ordered a favourite grey 
horse to be slaughtered, and then directed the police to 
collect all the dogs in their respective quarters and to 
transport them to Scutari, where, to the utter dismay of 
the inhabitants, they were set at liberty. Thousands of 
dogs thus perished upon the other side of the Bosphorus, 



DOGS. 295 

while the city streets became choked with filth, so that, 
when this vizir was strangled a few weeks subsequently, 
it was found expedient to offer a reward for re-importa- 
tion, by which means the city was re-dogged and re- 
cleansed. 

No cause was assigned by this capricious vizir for the 
slaughter of his horse or the exile of the dogs ; but the 
following story was current at the period. Nassoun, 
during: his agitated slumber at the council, had dreamed, 
that he was riding from the Porte to his own palace, 
when, being overtaken by darkness, there suddenly ap- 
peared a crowd of grim spectres, howling and reviling 
him on all sides, some brandishing blood-stained scyme- 
tars, others waving deadly bowstrings, and others hold- 
ing poisoned cups. This awe-inspiring band were the 
spirits of those unhappy men whom the sanguinary vizir 
had doomed to unmerited death. Seizing the heavy 
mace that hung at his saddle-bow, Nassoun essayed to 
clear his way through these hideous apparitions, but 
his horse, a snow-white Arab, given to him by the 
Sultan, reared, plunged, and at length hurled its rider 
to the ground: whereupon the ghastly crew, assuming 
the form of dogs, rushed with open mouths to devour 
him. 

At this moment he awoke, and, having demanded an 
explanation of this dream, was advised by the chief 
astrologer to adopt the very course which led to his 
destruction. For Achmet, already desirous to rid him- 
self and the country of this tyrannical minister, no sooner 
heard of Nassoun 1 s having slaughtered the horse, his 
own P-ift, than, declaring this to be an insult and act of 
rebellion, he forthwith dismissed him from office, and 
abandoned his neck to the executioner. 



296 BATHS. 

It is generally asserted that Turks forbid dogs to 
enter their houses, and that they have no canine favour- 
ites. This is correct as regards the multitude ; hut 
there are many exceptions. For instance, more than 
one favourite spaniel was admitted into the private 
apartments of the late Sultan Mahmoud, and a special 
officer was appointed to attend them. Halil, Rescind, 
Achmet, Fethi, and other pashas have also favourite dogs, 
and divers pashas and eff'endys, charged with diplomatic 
missions, have returned bitten with that inconvenient 
lap-dog mania which now kennelizes tiie boudoirs of 
our ladies. Among others, Chekib Effendy, ambassador 
to the court of St. James's, imported two or three of these 
animals from London, together with a most garrulous 
cockatoo, which gave noisy proofs of its having kept 
exceeding bad company, and thus of not being qualified 
to unite in paradise with the parrot of the Queen of 
Sheba. 

But we must leave clean and unclean animals, and 
proceed to purify ourselves at Tchinelly Hammam (porce- 
lain bath). This edifice stands upon the eastern side of 
the street leading directly from the lower end of At 
Bazary, and passing beneath the eastern walls of the 
citadel erected by the Crusaders. This is contiguous to 
the ancient Greek church of navrofeparepos, now Ki- 
lissy Djamessy (mosque of the churches), close to whose 
south-western entrance stands the huge sarcophagus, of 
coarse verd-antique, supposed to have contained the 
ashes of the great Constantine*. 

Repeated ablutions form an essential point in domestic 

* Others assert that the founder's remains were once deposited in the 
porphyry sarcophagus, seen near the mausoleum of the Noory Osmanya 
Moscme. Both assertions are doubtful. 



BATHS. 297 

as well as religious customs. A few details respecting 
these practices are therefore requisite. 

The benefit arising from frequent ablution, less as a 
religious necessity than as an accessory to health, might 
have been sufficient to induce the great Moslem law- 
giver to insist upon its application, even had he not 
found precedents in the practices of the Jews, upon 
whose customs and traditions he founded many of his 
most important ordinances. In climates essentially tend- 
ing to cutaneous affections, and other maladies that 
might be mitigated or perhaps averted by personal 
cleanliness, strict enforcement of corporeal purification 
became the duty of legislators ; and the more so, since 
both Hebrew and Moslem patriarchs were aware that 
the natural indolence of Orientals would lead them to 
neglect these precautions, unless rendered imperative by 
religious decrees*. 

The enforcement of total or partial ablution, and the 
gradation of impurities requiring lustration, may therefore 
be considered as essentially based upon sanatory as well 
as religious principles ; although the latter have super- 
seded the former in popular application. Thus, want of 
cleanliness is fortunately regarded as an offence against 
the Divinity. When Mohammed enacted these laws, he 
took care to inculcate the moral principle, that external 
purification is acceptable in God's sight, as symbolic of 
inward purity. Herein he followed, more or less, the pre- 
cept of our Saviour, who, when he rebuked the Pharisees 
for adhering to outward superstitions, said : " There is 
nothing from without a man that, entering into him can 
defile him; but the things which come from him, those are 

* The ordinances regarding purification are strictly defined by 
Hebrew Law. See Numbers xiv. 

o3 



298 BATHS. 

they that defile the man*,* meaning thereby the unclean* 

ness of heart and impurities of mind, whence arise the 
sins enumerated by the holy Evangelist. 

According to Mohammed's ordinances, there are three 
degrees of personal impurity (nedgiss) requiring corre- 
spondent degrees of purification. 

The first and simplest is termed niootanedjiss. It 
requires ghasl, that is, mere washing of the hands, mouth, 
beard, or other polluted part, as practised before and 
after meals, and upon some other urgent occasions. It 
has no direct religious character, and may therefore be 
applied to the washing of persons, chambers, or utensils, 
even of unbelievers. 

The second is of religious nature, and called mookh- 
diss. It requires partial ablution (abdest), and is only 
practised before prayer. It consists of bathing the 
arms from below the elbows to the finders 1 ends, the feet 
from the ancles to the extremities, the forehead and 
cheeks, the head behind the ears, the beard, and rinsing 
the mouth, each three times successively. Soonites, in 
performing abdest or ghasl, take care to wash from the 
extremities upwards, whereas the practice of Sheahs is 
directly the reverse : a distinction rigidly observed by, 
and typical of, both sects. 

The third is termed djoonoub, and necessitates total 
bathing (ghoosl). This is imperative on Fridays 
before mid -day namaz, although the person be in a 
state of complete purity. Strictly speaking, complete 
ablution is required upon so many occasions, that were 
the law rigidly observed, daily ghoosl would be inevi- 
table. But it is frequently replaced by abdest, save 

* St. Mark vii., 22, 23. 



BATHS. 299 

upon Friday when no man, unless absolutely precluded, 
abstains from this practice. 

All ablutions, whether partial or entire, should be 
preceded by repeating the invocation called Besmela, 
that is, " In the name of God, the merciful and clement. 
Praise be to God, who has vouchsafed to us the Mussel- 
man faith/' The act of washing each part has also its 
appropriate prayer. Such, for instance as the feet, when 
it is required to say, "O Lord, strengthen my feet on 
the bridge Al Siratt, upon that day when all feet will 
totter and tremble during the awful passage*." 

To the above three modes of purification must be 
added that called tayammum, by which those who can- 
not procure water may employ dust or sand. This was 
of course ordained for those travelling in the desert, and 
especially on pilgrimage, or in besieged places. The 
substitute, though merely symbolical, is considered fully 
equivalent, in virtue of the divine words communicated 
by the archangel Gabriel to Mohammed, " If thou 
fmdest no water, purify thyself with such substances as 
may be pure and clean." The Prophet, imitating the old 
patriarchs, who were supposed to have received many 
siiffffestions from the actions of beasts and birds, is said 
to have taken this idea from the habits of the latter. 

The cases of impurity are multifarious, and some of 
them of a nature not to be enumerated, so let us at once 
enter Tchinelly Hammam, observing, by the way, that the 
description of one bath will serve for that of all others ; 

* Belief in the existence of Al Siratt forms the fourteenth article of 
Musselman faith. This bridge is more narrow than a hair and sharper 
than a sword. The blessed will glide across with the speed of wind. 
The doomed will lose their balance, and fall into the burning gulf be- 
neath. Enlightened men regard this article symbolically, the multitude 
believe in it materially. 



300 BATHS. 

as, although they may differ in size, architectural ele- 
gance, and luxury, they are all constructed upon the same 
plan. The system of treatment is also identical, except- 
ing, perhaps, in the number and adroitness of attendant-, 
and the price, which secures some baths from being in- 
vaded by the lower orders. 

All great hammams, whether double or single, that is, 
whether containing one set of rooms open to both sexes 
at different hours, or on different days, or divided into 
two distinct sets, approached by opposite entrances, con- 
tain three apartments. The first, or outer chamber, 
consists of an oblong square, surmounted by a lofty dome, 
which, as well as the upper portion of the side walls, is 
provided with windows, admitting abundant light, but 
secured from outward inspection by a brick screen, and 
thence the chamber is called djamakeeaii (the glazed*). 
The floor is paved with marble, and in the centre is a 
neatly sculptured fisskaya (fountain), or havooz (basin) 
of the same materials, as represented in our sketch of the 
vestiary of Tchinelly llammam, which has been selected 
as one of the neatest and most picturesque in the city. 

Elevated stages (settler) provided with numerous 
couches or camp beds (yatak), occupy the sides of the 
walls. Above these is a gallery supported by wooden 
or marble columns, similarly furnished. The yatak are 
covered with cushions and mattresses, where bathers un- 
dress and leave their garments, and subsequently repose, 
smoke, refresh themselves, and re-dress. The entrance- 
door is screened outside by a cloth curtain. Contiguous 
to this, in the inside, is a raised gallery, occupied by the 
hammamjee (superintendent). This personage is generally 

* This chamber corresponds with the ancient aTroBvrTjpiov (undress- 
ing room). 



BATHS. 301 

a respectable servant or agent of the Wakoofs, to which 
almost all baths are affiliated. He maintains order 
among bathers and attendants, and generally takes under 
his charge watches, purses, and valuables. The hammam- 
jee is assisted by an oosta (head waiter), who receives the 
money, and superintends the general service. 

The djamakeean is also furnished with wooden seats, 
placed in front of the raised platforms. Here those who 
cannot be immediately accommodated with yatak await 
their turn. It also contains a buffet filled with cups, 
glasses, and bowls, a stove for preparing coffee, and seve- 
ral wicker baskets with charcoal heaters, for drvins; linen. 

A khavejee and sherbetjee are added to the establish- 
ment. They supply coffee, pipes, narguillas, lemonade, 
fresh water, fruit, sweetmeats, or any other refreshments 
that may be called for after bathing. The operative 
attendants consist of two or more kulanjee (stove-heaters 
or stokers), three or four soopourgedjee (sweepers), 
whose business it is to clear away impurities, and several 
telak (bath-men). Some of the latter are charged with 
conducting customers into the heated rooms, and with 
there performing all necessary services, while others wait 
upon them when they return to the vestiary. The telak 
are always in sufficient number to insure prompt and 
regular attendance, and relieve each other twice or thrice 
daily. They wear no other garments, while on duty, 
than a small fez, a pair of naelin, and a peshtamel of red 
or blue striped cotton, which latter, being wound round 
the loins, serves as a petticoat or apron. 

When a bather enters, he makes his salutation to the 
hammamjee, and is conducted to one of the yatak, which 
are always covered with clean tcharsal (square sheet). 
Here he undresses, and, if he be not provided with his 
own bathing attire, he receives two coloured peshtamel, 



302 BATHS. 

which are drawn round his waist, and cover the whole of 
the person downwards. He is then presented with a pair 
of naelin, and, descending from the platform, is conducted 
by a telak, into the first vapour-room called saooklook 
(the cool place), the heat of which, nevertheless, appears 
insupportable to a novice. Here he rests some seconds, 
and begins to feel the effect of the temperature, generally 
110° of Fahrenheit. After some ten minutes' preparatory 
perspiration, he rises and follows the telak into the sid- 
jaklik (hot place), where the heat, from 12.j° to 130° of 
Fahrenheit, is extremely oppressive on first entering, and 
the perspiration profuse*. 

This apartment, as well as the " cool place,"" is sur- 
mounted by a dome, studded with convex glass lenses, to 
admit light, and perforated with holes, in which tin 
tubes are adapted, to carry off a portion of the vapour. 
The floors are paved with marble, slightly inclined to- 
wards the centre, so as to allow the water to run off. 
Upon the sides of the walls are several semicircular and 
neatly sculptured koorna (fountains), each provided with 
two brass mooslook (cocks) ; the one supplying cold, and 
the other hot water. The middle of this " hot place,' 1 
is occupied by a broad marble slab (gubek tashy), raised 
about two feet from the floor. Upon this bathers are laid, 
and undergo the process of maceration or shampooing to 
any extent required ; that is, simple friction, or rolling, 
kneading, cracking the joints, in a manner sometimes 
painful, never satisfactory, though perhaps always healthy. 

Having submitted to this process, called oomak, the 
patient rises, and takes possession of a wooden settle 
raised about four inches from the pavement, and placed 
near one of the lateral fountains. Here he finds a small 

* The "hot place" corresponds with the ancient -nvpiaTiipiov or 
sudatorium. 



BATHS. SO 



o 



brass tass (cup), which he repeatedly fills from the semi- 
circular koorna at his elbow, and throws the contents over 
his head and shoulders. These fountains have distinct 
names, being more or less heated, supplied with water, 
agreeably situated, and out of the way of doors. They 
are thence designated the hot, middling, cool, dry, plen- 
tiful, upper, lower, head, &c. Those near the angles 
are preferred. The price of a bath, not including extras, 
is regulated by the choice of those fountains. In large 
baths there is also a marble basin for complete immersion 
called koolatayin, of the same shape as the common 
European baths. But this is seldom used unless in the 
event of particular maladies, where total immersion is 
recommended. It is situated at the upper end of the 
hot chamber, and marked 10 in our annexed ground plan. 
When the bather has reposed awhile, the telak ap- 
proaches, and proceeds to rub him with coarse hammam 
kissessy (bathing gloves or bags). This is done with 
such dexterity that the operator peels off and throws 
upon the pavement long rolls of the epidermis, in such 
quantities as to impress novices with an idea that baker's 
dough has been spread on the gloves. This operation be- 
ing terminated, the telak brings, if required, a basin of 
perfumed soap lather, with which he rubs the body, 
dashing off the suds with hot water from the koorna — a 
pleasing process. He will also supply some of the per- 
fumed kil (paste), used by ladies for cleansing their hair, 
and composed of argillaceous earth, mixed with pounded 
roses and violets. The body being thus sufficiently 
macerated, divested of all extraneous matter, and purified 
by the most profuse perspiration, the patient, for such he 
must be, rises and returns to the saooklook, where he 
seats himself. 

Being here divested of his peshtamel, he is enveloped 



304 BATHS. 

in three linen wrappers. One of these, termed liavloo, 
is coiled round the head; a second, also called havloo, is 
thrown over his chest and shoulders; and a third, siledjik 
(the cleaner), is wound round the loins, and hangs to 
the ground. A considerable difference is now experienced 
in the temperature, and the flow of perspiration dimi- 
nishes. Presently, the attendant warns him that it is time 
to return to the vestiary, where, on first entering, the 
bather feels a sensation of cold. But he has not long 
taken possession of his couch, and been supplied with 
fresh wrappers, and also with makhrama (hand towels), 
before he again breaks out in a profuse but agreeable 
perspiration. This, however, subsides gradually ; and, 
with the aid of coffee, pipe, and sherbet, he sinks into a 
most voluptuous state of dreamy repose and complacent 
kief, which he continues to enjoy so long as it suits his 
inclination. 

After an hour thus passed in pleasing meditation, and 
under impulses of good-will and benevolence towards 
all men, the purified individual dresses and departs. 
This may be done without the necessity of swathing up 
in cloaks or warm clothing, even in severe weather. 
Colds arc rarely caught, unless one has to cross the 
harbour while still under the influence of the bath : then 
the sharp winds and inaction require warm covering. 
Otherwise, the gradual transition from the "hot" to 
the " cool place," and thence to the djamakeeao, acts 
as a safeguard against subsequent exposure to outward 
atmosphere. The whole process occupies about two 
hours ; and the cost, exclusive of refreshments, is about 
five piastres, with a trifle for the oosta. If sherbet, 
coffee, and pipes be supplied, ten piastres, including 
baksish, is ample payment. Baksish, paid by rich 
natives, generally doubles the expense of a bath ; but 



BATHS. , 305 

this is diminished, when families join and occupy the 
same fountain. The tax is then one piastre (two pence) 
for the oosta, and an equal sum, called tass para, for the 
brass cups; thirty paras, 1^(7., called sou parassy (water 
money) to the attending telak ; and twenty paras to 
the stoker : in all b'|e?. each. To this must be added 
refreshments, which may run up the cost to about one 
shilling each person. But this is more applicable to wo- 
men than men, as the latter generally bathe alone. 

Large baths are provided with one or more sets of private 
rooms, each consisting of three chambers. One of these 
opens into the saooklik, and is called saook-halvet; the 
second and third are connected with the " hot place,' 1 and 
are termed orta (middle) and sidjak (hot) halvettler. 
Their prices are somewhat higher than the public rooms. 
Turks and Armenians of the better classes are always 
liberal in their fees, and on certain occasions the baksish is 
doubled; for instance, at Beiram,upon marriage, and when 
ladies bathe after confinement. Christians also double 
their donations at Easter, New Year, and Christmas. 
Attendants take care to remind them of these festivals, 
by presenting them with an orange or a plate of sugar- 
plums. 

In addition to the operations performed upon Euro- 
pean bathers, Turks demand other services. Those who 
only wear the long tuft of hair at the summit of the 
crown, require this to be unplaited, cleansed, and re-ad- 
justed. It is necessary for them to epilate the person 
with tweezers or by the application of corrosive paste. 
The latter process, being more speedy and less painful, is 
preferred. For this purpose they are supplied with a 
yellow paste, called ott. This is composed of astringent 
herbs, mixed with quick lime and perfumed wood ashes, 



306 BATHS. 

which before many minutes produces the effect of sharp 
razors. Then come the pedicurists, who pare and 
arrange hands and feet, and this so cleverly, that they 
might enable a cripple to rival in speed Atalanta the 
swift-footed daughter of Schocneus. 

The principal drawback on Turkish baths is the neces- 
sity of submitting to the various operations in such nume- 
rous and mixed company. Hut this inconvenience is 
mostly ideal, as each individual occupies himself exclu- 
sively with his own ablutions, and would consider himself 
culpable of extreme indecorum were he to observe others. 
The utmost order and decency is maintained at all times, 
and, unless some noisy young Greeks be present, not a 
voice is heard. When ladies bathe, the case is different. 
The sounds of their merriment may often be heard in 
the streets. 

To Europeans, accustomed to complete immersion, 
vapour is less agreeable than hot water, and many find 
the former insupportable. It is needless, perhaps, to 
mention that the moisture or vapour is produced by the 
steam arising from the water passing over the floors, 
which are heated by flues underneath to such a degree 
as to render nac'lin necessary, in order to prevent the feet 
from being blistered. 

The process of female bathing differs from that of 
men only in the attendants being all women. The 
directress is then called hammamjee khatun,the first waiter 
oosta kadinn, and the bathing women telek. They are 
generally free women, slaves being employed only as 
sweepers. The naelin, peshtamel, and linen of female 
bathers are of the same shape and materials, though 
longer and more richly embroidered. In lieu of a fez, 
they wind a yeminy (handkerchief) round their heads, 



BATHS. 307 

and leave the hair pendent over the shoulders. The 
mode of bathing, friction, and epilation, are likewise simi- 
lar; but when ladies return to thedjamakeean, they remain 
much longer, having an excuse in the various minutiae of 
the toilet. 

The most tedious portion of this operation is the 
arrangement of the hair, which is seldom disturbed from 
one bath day to another, as ladies prefer to be dressed by 
oosta, who are as celebrated for their skill in unravelling, 
cleansing, dyeing, braiding, and ornamenting hair, as the 
most adroit hairdressers of Paris. This is exemplified 
in the multitudinous tresses of children and unmarried 
girls. They are also renowned for their knowledge of 
cosmetics, much resorted to by elderly ladies and Arme- 
nians, and for the art and grace with which they tinge 
eyelashes with soorma, and, after regulating the eye- 
brows with tweezers, colour them with perfumed henna 
paste. Some also are good musicians and expert dancers, 
and, on extraordinary occasions, entertain their fair cus- 
tomers with songs and music. 

It is an original and diverting spectacle for a male 
stranger to observe, through the corner of his eye, the 
various costume and practices of his own sex, when, for 
the first time, he enters one of the great public baths. 
But this scene must be a hundredfold more interesting, 
when the surrounding galleries are crowded with females 
of all ages; some most sumptuously attired, their heads 
glittering with diamonds and precious stones, and their 
jewel-covered fingers busied in adorning themselves and 
their beautiful children; while others crowd the space 
beneath, as they pass to and from the heated rooms, 
elevated upon silver-studded naelin, and wearing no other 
raiment than their long, flowing raven hair, and the gold- 



308 BATHS. 

embroidered peshtamel, that but slightly veil their swan- 
like forms. 

But these are spectacles that can only be described 
graphically by those of the same sex. Man's eye never 
penetrated within these forbidden sanctuaries; and, if 
man's pencil has essayed to delineate these scenes, as 
may be observed in various continental picture-galleries, 
the artists have drawn largely upon their own imagi- 
nation and upon the credulity of spectators. Thence 
arise numerous anachronisms and errors of detail, ap- 
parent to those conversant with Eastern customs. 

Many persons of quality possess baths at their own 
houses. They are fitted up on the same principle as the 
public establishments, but with the adoption of every 
possible luxury that Eastern voluptuousness can desire. 
There may be seen, walls, floors, roofs, and fountains of 
Marmora marble, alabaster, or Saxon aventurine, richly 
gilt, and admirably clean ; lofty domes, admitting soft 
light through lenses of coloured glass; cornices, gar- 
lands, and arabesques, of well-executed sculpture ; cur- 
tains of crimson cloth, velvet, or silk, fringed with gold; 
soft couches covered with costly stuffs; brass or silver 
cassolets for burning aloes- wood; inlaid naelin, studded 
with silver bosses; peshtamel of crimson Aleppo silk, 
interwoven with gold thread ; wrappers of fine Salonica 
linen, embroidered with silken flowers. In short, nothing 
is wanting that can gratify the eye or soothe the senses. 

Baths in imperial palaces surpass all others, as it may 
be supposed, in luxury and splendour. Some of these 
at Tcheraghan appear to be the work and, as it were, 
the abode, of fairies. 

Bathing, to an excess that soon betrays its laxative 
effects upon the figures of Turkish and Bay a women, 



BATHS. 309 

is so universal that few villages are unprovided with 
hammams. The number of public establishments in the 
capita], some of which are gratuitous foundations for the 
poor, amount to about three hundred and eighty. Many 
of these are tchifta (double), that is, divided into two 
distinct parts, one for men and the other for women. 
But the majority contain only one set of rooms, and are 
called mahalla (quarter or parish) hammams. Some of 
these single baths are reserved exclusively for the female 
sex on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Thursdays, and are 
accessible to men on the four remaining days. Others 
are open from dawn to mid-day for women, and from 
the latter hour until nightfall for men, or vice versa ; so 
that either sex may bathe on any day or at any hour 
that suits their convenience, without incommoding each 
other. 

It is needless perhaps to observe, that the so-called 
Turkish bath is of most ancient origin, and that Mos- 
lems maintained without materially improving upon the 
constructions or practices of the Babylonians, Egyptians, 
and Persians, adopted by the Greeks and Romans. 
This is verified in the most interesting manner by the 
excavations at Pompeii, where baths may be seen nearly 
in their primitive condition. 

When Constantine conquered Byzantium (a.d. 330), 
and to use his own words, recorded by Theodosius, 
"pro commoditate urbis quam eterno nomine, Deo 
jubente, donavit,*''' he found the city already provided 
with several public baths. Some of these were enlarged 
and embellished, and others were erected by him and his 
successors, and adorned with a profusion of columns and 
statues. Among the number were — 

1. The great bath called Zevynnros (the horse- 



310 BATHS. 

binder), which is supposed to have stood between the 
north-east end of the Hippodrome and Aya Sofia. Its 
designation, according to Von Hammer, was derived 
from a colossal alto-relievo over the principal entrance, 
representing the God of Light restraining the ardour 
of four horses attached to his car. 

2. The Z^aipiaTiipLov (fives-court), where the Royal 
Mint is now erected. 

3. The bath of Achilles, near the present Baghtshy 
Kapoossy. 

4. That called BaacXiKa, upon the site now occupied 
by the Imperial Kitchens in the Seraglio. 

5. The Carosian baths, erected by Valens, in honour 
of his daughter Carosia. 

6. The Eudoxian, erected by Arcadius, in honour of 
his wife. 

7- The Arcadian, dedicated to Arcadia by her 
husband, the Emperor Zeno. 

8. The Sophian, founded by the wife of Justinus II., 
in the Forum Constantini, nearly upon the spot where 
now exists the Valida llammam. 

9- The Constantian, or Theodosian, commenced by 
Constantius, and terminated by Theodosius in 427- 

10. The vast baths of the palace of the Blachern, 
erected by Tiberius I. in 581. 

11. The private imperial bath at the Hebdomon (now 
Tefkur Serai), miscalled the Belisarian palace, near the 
Adrianople gate. 

The sites of these baths are pointed out by some 
Byzantine writers, and on their authority by Gyllius, 
Ducange, and Von Hammer. But no vestiges remain, 
save of the first, some remnants of which may be traced 
near the spot above indicated ; and of the last, w T hich 



BATHS. 311 

may be reached by ascending the ruins, and traversing 
a miserable apartment occupied by poor Hebrews. 

The baths of ancient Byzantium and Constantinople, 
some destroyed by fire or earthquakes, others ruined by 
the crusaders, and the remainder by Osmanlis, were 
distinguished for their external splendour as well as for 
their inward luxury. But modern hammams have no 
outward ornament, and with few exceptions can only 
be discovered by large curtained or painted doors, or 
by red-tiled domes, studded with glass lenses and tin 
tubes. The only approach to external embellishment is 
a portico, generally of wood, fantastically painted in 
yellow and red arabesques, and a tablet over the door, 
bearing the name of the founder, with the addition of 
some one of the visual invocations to the Almighty. 
Now and then a moral sentence is inscribed. One of 
the most apposite of these is placed over the entrance to 
Valida Hammam, built by the celebrated Noor Banou 
(lady of light), first kadinn to Selim II., and mother of 
Murad III. It runs thus: — " When thou art unclean, 
purify thyself." 

The baths of Pera and Galata are inferior in every 
requisite to those within the city. The most celebrated 
and fashionable of the latter are, 

1. Tchukur (sunken), erected by Mohammed II. 
upon the ruins of the Arcadian cisterns. The word 
tchukur means, strictly, an excavation, of which there 
were several in Christian Constantinople serving as 
reservoirs. The largest of these is the tchukur bostan 
(sunken garden), the ancient Cisterna Petri, contiguous 
to the southern side of the Selimya mosque, upon the 
summit of the fifth hill. 

2. Valida Hammam above mentioned. This bath. 



812 BATHS. 

much frequented by the middling classes, is nearly 
opposite to "the Burned Column." 

3. Tchinelly (porcelain), one of the most spacious and 
respectable in the city, has been recently rebuilt by the 
wakoof of Sultan Mohammed's mosque, to which the 
ground belongs. It derived its name from the internal 
■walls being lined with porcelain squares. It is the 
special resort of ladies after their confinement, and thus 
brings in a rich harvest to the female attendants. 

4. Djigal Oglou, or, as it is generally called, Yeny 
Hammam, north of St. Sofia. 

5. Gedik (the select) Pasha. 

6. Djerrah Pasha, near the mosque founded by that 
personage in Avret Bazary. 

7. Cazi Asker (the judges), the resort of Oolema, 
and founded by one of that body in the reign of 
Ibrahim. 

The baths called Mahmoud Pasha, in the quarter of 
that name, near the eastern entrance to the bazars, and 
Tahtycala, near the Egyptian market, are among the 
largest ; but they are not in repute with the higher 
classes, being frequented by porters, boatmen, rayas of 
inferior degree, and by Persians, who carry the stain of 
heterodoxy on their persons. The baths of Aya Sofia, 
contiguous to the southern court of that mosque, and 
Khasseky, in Avret Bazary quarter, are also among the 
most spacious establishments. But they are far from 
being held in odour of sanctity, being the principal resorts 
of ladies whose merit does not precisely consist in con- 
cealing their faces from the impure gaze of the other 
sex*. 

* It is not unworthy of remark, that Mohammed, who followed 
Hebrew practices in many points, should have adopted, as a type of 



baths. 313 

A bath, rivalling in size and formerly in fashion the 
most select within the city, is situated at Scutari. It is 
called Valida Hammam, having been erected by Rabia 
Gulnush, mother of Sultans Mustafa II. and Ahmet III. 
But this establishment is now regarded as more objec- 
tionable than either of the two last mentioned, from 
similar or more aggravated causes ; being almost ex- 
clusively frequented by women such as she who saved 
herself and kindred by having harboured the spies sent 
from Shittim, when Joshua destroyed all other living 
things in Jericho. 

To continue the nomenclature of these establishments 
would be wearisome. We will conclude the subject, 
therefore, with an explanatory ground-plan of one of 
the large double baths*, all of which are constructed 
upon the same principle, though perhaps differing in 
size. 

Let us now shape our course northward, beneath the 
walls of the ancient citadel of the Crusaders, and thence, 
passing the light and graceful mosque called Zerek (the 
lively), let us follow the long street principally occupied 
by corn-mills and corn-chandlers, to the new steam 
flour-millf. Having reached the latter, a few paces 
more will bring us to Oon Kapan Kapoossy (Meal Maga- 
zine gate), one of the most crowded parts of the citv, 



modesty, that which the holy Scriptures more than once designate as 
the symbol of impurity. Witness Genesis xxxviii., where, in speaking 
of Tamar, it is said, " And when Judah saw her, he thought her to be 
an harlot, because she had covered her face." 

* See end of chapter. 

■f The steam mill recently sold by Halil Pasha to the Government is 
now let to an Armenian company for sixty-two thousand piastres 
monthly, thus yielding an annual rent of more than 7000/. 

vol. in. r 



314 GATES OF SERAGLIO. 

and the great thoroughfare conducting from the bridge 
to all parts within or beyond the walls. 

The gates of Constantinople being among its most re- 
markable features, they merit enumeration. This shall 
be done in the order in which they are met with, sup- 
posing the stranger to commence the circle, first of 
Seraglio, and then of city, from the harbour entrance, 
and thence by his right southward. 

Gates of Seraglio in 1843. 

1. Top kapoo, cannon gate, at Seraglio Point; so called 
originally from a battery erected at this part. At pre- 
sent, a few field pieces are kept under the contiguous 
guard-house, for the purpose of saluting upon festivals. 
The battery at Tophana is appointed to salute foreign 
flags. 

2. Odoon*, so termed from its being the gate through 
which all the contiguous store of fuel was carried into 
the palace. It was through this gate, now never opened, 
that bodies executed in the Seraglio were taken forth 
and cast into the sea. 

3. Yally kioshk, from the neighbouring "bank-side 11 
pavilion. 

4. Demir (iron), a common name given to gates, or 
natural barriers and passages, of which many instances 
occur. Witness those where the French troops dis- 
tinguished themselves in Algeria, the rapids below Or- 
sova, and those mentioned by the lamented Burnes in 
his work on Affghanistan. 

5. Suleiman, constructed by the great Suleiman. 

* The word kapoo (gate) must be understood as added to all. 



GATES OF CONSTANTINOPLE. 315 

6. Saook tchesma (cool spring), from the freshness of 
the neighbouring fountain, nearly opposite to " the 
Porte." 

7- Bab-y-Homayoom (imperial), the grand entrance 
to the three courts of the upper Seraglio. 

8. Akhor (stable), leading into the imperial mews. 

9- Khastelar (hospital), contiguous to the old infirmary 
of the Bostanjees and Solaks, and now one of the im- 
perial guard hospitals. 

Two or three small posterns are pierced in the sea 
wall, near the garden of the lower Seraglio, for the con- 
venience of throwing rubbish into the sea. 

Gates of the City: Golden Horn Side. 

1. Baghtshy (garden), contiguous to the landing-place 
of that name; the great thoroughfare for all persons 
crossing the harbour in boats and going to the Porte. 

2. Valida, from the mosque of that name. This is 
rather a postern than a regular gate. 

3. Balyk bazary (fish market). 

4. Sindan (prison), from the contiguous place of in- 
carceration now devoted to other purposes. 

5. Odoon kapan, from the adjacent timber yards. 

6. Ooon kapan (meal magazine). 

7. Dschub-Ali, erected by a wealthy glazier named 
Ali. 

8. Ayasma (holy fountain), from the contiguous foun- 
tain, venerated by the Greeks before the conquest, and 
still in odour of sanctity. 

9. Yeny (new). 

10. Petry (Peter's), formerly dedicated to St. Peter. 

11. Fenar (light-house), from the light-house, no 
longer existing, whence the whole Fanar took its name. 

p 2 



31G GATES 

12. Balat (palace), conducting to the ancient Blachern 
palace and its vicinity, now principally inhabited by 
Jews — a filthy and most squalid quarter. 

13. Aeevan (the palace), or, as it is corruptly called, 
Hai'van (beast) Serai*. 

Gates on Land Side. 

1. Egri (crooked or oblique), from its being con- 
structed in an angle of the wall. 

2. Edreny (Adrianople), opening upon the hig road 
to that city. 

3. Top (cannon), from a battery formerly established 
here, and also from its having been battered at the con- 
quest. Here it was that the last Constantine fell, as be- 
came a warrior, upon the breach. 

4. Mevlany Yeay, from its contiguity to the con- 
vent of the Mevlany dervishes in the adjacent cemetery. 
Sometimes it is also called yeny (new), from its being 

* Von Hammer, following the vulgar pronunciation, has adopted the 
latter designation, in contradistinction to the more accurate d'Ohsson, who 
writes it correctly aeevan. This Persian word means palace, and was given 
to it from its vicinity to the ancient Blachern, of which immense building 
nothing remains hut some few internal walls and the holy fountain, 
much frequented as a healing place by the Greeks, whose priests derive 
emolument from distributing water to the devout. All well-educated 
Turks call this gate aeevan, and not hai'van. The superfluous word 
serai has been added by a reduplication, common in Turkey, where 
Arabic or Persian words are employed — as, for instance, Bab-y-Homayoom 
kapoossy, the Arab and Turkish words bab and kapoo, meaning the same 
thing (gate). Von Hammer says that the gate was termed haivan, be- 
cause the old entrance at this point was called tov Kvvrjyiov, from its con- 
tiguity to the amphitheatre for wild beasts; but the Turks admit neither 
his pronunciation nor derivation, however specious; and therefore insist 
upon aeevan. This gate ought not to be included in those of the city 
walls; as, although it conducts from the Fauar to Eyoub, it does not 
give admittance within the city. 



OF CONSTANTINOPLE. 317 

rebuilt by Sultan Achmet from the remains of the old 
Grecian gate, over which, according to Gyllius, was 
placed the following inscription, quoted by Von Ham- 
mer : — 

" Theodosii jussis, gemino nee mense peracto, 
Constantinus ovans htec rncenia firma locavit, 
Tam cito, tam stabilem, Pallas vix conderet arcem." 

5. Silivri, leading to the town of that name. 

6. Yedy Kooly (Seven Towers), contiguous to the 
north-west angle of that celebrated prison. 

Seaside from Seven Towers. 

1. Narly (pomegranate), from a market for this fruit 
being held there. 

2. Psamatia (sand*). 

3. Daoud Pasha, from the celebrated David Pasha, 
who has given his name to the adjoining quarter and 
handsome mosque. 

4. Yeny (new), from its having been constructed since 
the conquest. 

5. Koom (sand). 

6. Tchatladdy (the broken*f-). 

7- Akhor (stable), being contiguous to the outer walls 
of the imperial mews. 

Thus it will be seen, firstly, that the Seraglio is pro- 
vided with nine gates, the last seven of which can be 
entered bv horses and vehicles, whilst the first two com- 
municate exclusively with the sea. Of these two, Top 

* This Greek word, with many others, is retained. 

-f- Von Hammer translates this word " slaughterers," from its vicinity 
to the slaughter-houses; but this, according to the opinion of learned 
Turks, is a forced interpretation or error ; as tchatlimak, whence tchat- 
laddy, is a neuter verb, meaning to crack or burst of itself. They there- 
fore affirm that the gate was named from its splitting or cracking of 
itself immediately after its erection. 



318 



GROUND PLAN OF A BATH. 



Kapoo is reserved for the Sultan and his immediate at- 
tendants. 

Secondly, the city walls are perforated by twenty-six 
o-ates, thirteen of which face the Golden Horn, six give 
access to the base of the triangle formed by the city 
walls on the land side, and the remaining seven front the 
Sea of Marmora, between the southern extremity of the 
Seraglio and the Seven Towers. But of all these thirty- 
five gates there is not one, excepting that at Seraglio 
Point and that called Bab-y-Homayoom, which pos- 
sesses the slightest approach to architectural regularity 
or even common ornament. They are for the most part 
in a half-ruined state, the masonry crumbling, and the 
woodwork worm-eaten and decayed. 

GROUND PLAN OF A TCHIFTA, OR DOUBLE BATH. 



13 



■ V- 



ZuZ 



la 



s 



10 



I 



a_ j T __ a_ 

? 

Li 



[Jrr 



tf 



irimrns Side 
distfibulcd 
OS that of tlu 
Clcn 



as 



No. 

1 . Men's entrance. 

2. Hammamjee's lodge. 

3. Djamakeean (vestiary). 

4. Havooz (basin). 

a, a, a, a. Settler (platforms). 

5. Saooklook (cool chamber). 

6. 6. Water closets. 

7. Servants' room. 

8. 8. Sidjaklik (hot room). 



No. 
9. Guebektashy (shampooing 
stone). 
Halvet (private rooms). 
Koolatayin (open bath). 
Khaznet (reservoir). 
13. Kewlkhana (stoves). 

14, 14. Opening for heating stoves. 

15. Women's entrance. 



10, 
11. 
12, 
13 



BRIDGE. 



319 




ali pacha mezary. (tomb of ali pacha of janina, opposite to 

Silivry Gate.) 



CHAPTER VIII. 

THE GOLDEN HORN AND HARBOUR; PORTERS; STONE- 
CUTTERS; FUNERAL CEREMONIES, MAUSOLEUMS, 
CEMETERIES, AND TOMBS; CONCLUDING REMARKS 
ON THE TURKISH CHARACTER. 

Until the year 1838, the only mode of communica- 
tion between the two shores of the Golden Horn was 
by means of ferry-boats and kayiks. At length, Sultan 
Mahmoud II. determined to construct a bridge, and 
with him to resolve was to accomplish. Orders to this 



320 



BRIDGE 



effect were, therefore, issued to the Grand Admiral, 
■within whose jurisdiction the Golden Horn is placed. 

The plan finally adopted was suggested by a Greek 
named Georgi, master mast-maker in the dock-yard, 
and was executed by his department. It consists of 
several sections of strong rafts, closely connected at the 
extremities*. Each section comprises four tiers of 
timber, upon the uppermost of which rest the road- 
way, platform, and balustrade. In commemoration of 
its utility, this bridge, as shewn by the inscription over 
the contiguous gate of Azab, was called Noossretya (a 
benefaction). 

The following profile represents a section of the 
bridge as seen on either side. 




LtYll 



-. 



It will be observed that the lowest tier (No. ]) con- 
sists of solid timbers, placed at right angles with the 
current, and forming a compact stage. Upon this 
stage a series of strong square beams (No. 2) are fixed 
transversely, at regular intervals of forty inches. These 
form bases for corresponding wooden arches, three feet 
high (No. 3). Upon their crowns rest the joists that 
support the roadway platform (No. 5). Massive balus- 

* Blanqui (Voyage eii Bulgarie), often inexact in regard to details, 
fays that this bridge is built on piles. The depth of water would be 
quite sufficient to render such a system impracticable. He speaks of 
the great arches being moveable ; this is an error. 



OVER GOLDEN HORN. 321 

trades five feet high are affixed to the sides. Each 
section is moored taught to anchors, two upon each 
face. But, as there is no tide and the set of the stream 
does not exceed two miles per hour, there is little strain, 
no double friction. 

The extremities of the roadway being upon a level 
with and made fast to the shore, the raft cannot rise or 
fall considerably with increase or diminution of water. 
But derangement from flushes, produced by inland 
floods or prevalent southerly gales, is obviated by the 
arches (No. 3), through which, in case of accident, the 
waters can flow without obstruction. Inland floods, 
frequent in autumn and winter, produce little visible 
effect on the harbour; but, when violent southerly 
winds prevail, they act upon the current passing from 
the Black Sea into the Propontis, and not only cause an 
inversion of these currents, but produce a rise of waters 
within the Golden Horn. In some cases the shores on 
both sides of the harbour are inundated, though raised 
nearly three feet above the ordinary level*. 

In order to facilitate free intercourse of small craft, 
two passages are left open, each distant three hundred 
feet from the respective shores, and having a water-way 
eighty feet wide. That on the Galata side is reserved 
for boats entering the inner harbour, that upon the city 
side for those passing outwards. These passages are 
surmounted by semicircular arches, which, though 
difficult of ascent and descent for wheeled vehicles, 
break the long horizontal line, and give lightness to the 

* The waters of the harbour are peculiarly favourable for breeding 
muscles. Innumerable masses adhere to the lower range of timbers of 
the bridge, and are fished once a mouth, when in season. They pro- 
duce a rent of five thousand piastres to the bridgemaster. 

p3 



322 BRIDGE 

general appearance. In order to enable vessels of the 
largest class to pass to and fro, the southern central 
section is so constructed as to form a swing-bridge. 
By means of massive iron hinges, affixed to one angle, 
it can be drawn back and replaced in a few minutes. 
The depth of the channel at this part is upwards of 
twelve fathom and the average eight. The extreme 
length of the planked passage is about one thousand 
five hundred, and the exact breadth of carriage-way 
thirty feet. 

In bad weather, when the Pera streets and contiguous 
cemeteries are knee-deep in mud, this lengthy bridge 
forms a valuable substitute. Here a tolerably dry walk, 
fresh air, and animated prospect may be enjoyed until 
sun-set, after which the bridge and all city gates are 
closed, save during Ramazan, when they are left open 
all night, that the faithful may visit the mosques and 
their friends at all hours. 

The interest of the spectacle is heightened by the 
shoals of porpoises that roll and revel amid the number- 
less kayiks, and by the multitude of gulls that scarcely 
trouble themselves to avoid the plashing oars. These 
birds receive uninterrupted protection ; for even as dogs 
are purifiers of streets, so are gulls cleansers of the 
waters. Nothing escapes their quick eye and unerring 
beak. Thus the harbour is in a great measure cleared 
of impurities, which, in spite of the stream, would 
otherwise accumulate. Gulls and cormorants, of which 
latter many take refuge in the Golden Horn during 
winter, are not the only birds that enjoy unmolested 
freedom. The landing-place on the eastern part of the 
bridge, near Oon Kapou Gate, is appointed for unload- 
ing corn-boats. Here flocks of pigeons and ring-doves 



OVER GOLDEN HORN. 323 

perch upon masts, oars, and decks, or fearlessly help 
themselves from the rich cargoes. The corn-dealers 
have the reputation of griping avarice, but none grudge 
these birds their daily food. 

The open spaces at the extremities of the bridge are 
embellished by small mosques. That upon the Stambol 
side derives its name from the adjacent meal magazines ; 
that upon the Galata shore is called Azab, having been 
erected for the Azab (light troops), whose barracks 
were immediately opposite. The Sultan has an apart- 
ment at this mosque, where he sometimes seats himself 
after mid-day prayer on Fridays, to enjoy the busy 
scene beneath and the surrounding prospect. The 
passage of the bridge is free. Such ought to be the 
case with similar constructions in all capitals, and such 
indeed they are except in London and Prague; in 
which latter city nobles are exempt, and poor men alone 
pay toll — a monstrous inversion*. 

The direct road from the bridge to the point whence 
we started in our first chapter would be through Azab 
Kapoossy, and thence through a second gate into 
Kutchuk Mezarlik (small cemetery), but one or two 
interesting trades remain to be mentioned. We will, 
therefore, plunge into the long and narrow street that con- 
nects the southern end of the bridge with the fish market. 
Before entering this street, which may be termed the 
Wapping of Constantinople, we will pause to describe 
the hamals (porters), as some of the finest of these 
stalwart and laborious men are stationed at the corn 
magazine stairs. 

* This anomaly will disappear when the new suspension bridge, at 
Pesth, is opened. 



324 PORTERS. 

Upward of eight thousand five hundred hamals are 
registered in the books of the two hamal bashy, one of 
whom has his office at the custom-house, and the other 
at the ikhtisab konak (chief police office) at Galata. 
Two-thirds are Armenians from the province of Van 
and neighbouring districts ; the remainder are Moslems 
from the pashaliks of Trebizonde, Aidin, and the 
Taurus districts. They supply the place of wheeled 
vehicles, and are indispensable in a city where the pro- 
gress or passage of carts would be impracticable*. 

Both Moslem and Armenian porters consider the 
profession as an heirloom, and generally rear up their 
sons to the same occupation, much in the manner that 
the Bosphorus Greeks monopolize the craft of water- 
men. The whole body is registered, in squads, having 
their appointed stations under a vekil (deputy). The 
whole are divided into two classes. The one called 
yook hamal, work singly and carry loads upon their 
backs, with the aid of a thick leather pad (arkaluk), 
fastened by straps crossing the shoulders. This pad 
hangs low down, and its projection forms a rest for 
the load. When in motion, the body is bent nearly 
horizontal, and thus the weight rests principally upon 
the loins. A stout man will in this manner carry from 
six to eight cwt. 

The second class, called suruk, work in gangs of two, 
four, six, or eight. Each couple is provided with a 
pliant ashen pole (suruk) about twelve feet long, the 
ends of which rest upon the left shoulders. The load is 
suspended to the centre of the pole, when two men are 

* Horses and asses only are used for carrying timber, flour, building 
materials, and rubbish. 



PORTERS. 325 

required ; but when six or eight unite, it is first made 
fast to three pieces of wood exactly imitating the bars 
used for leaders in coaches. The load is slung by cords 
to the longest or centre bar, and each end of the smaller 
bars is affixed to a different pole. The bearers advance 
with a quick short step, four abreast, but somewhat 
obliquely. Each rests the right hand on the shoulder 
of him at his side. By this simple contrivance, and by 
keeping exact time and pace, eight of these sinewy men 
carry nearly a ton weight up the steepest and most 
tortuous alleys. 

The number of porters at each station is determined 
by the vekil, who regulates the employ of hands to the 
demand, so that all may gain a fair livelihood. No hamal 
can ply at any station without the assent of this vekil. 
The usual fare is one piastre and a half each trip, for 
yook hamals. Suruk are paid in the same proportion, 
but are generally hired by the month by merchants and 
consignees. Divisions of men, working at each station, 
generally lodge together in the outskirts of the city and 
suburbs, and pay a fixed sum monthly to their vekil, 
who provides food and lodging. An equal portion of 
their earnings is thrown into a common purse and given 
to their chief, who, after deducting government tax and 
expenses for meals and lodging, divides the remainder 
fairly among them. Average earnings amount to 
eight piastres per day and expenses to four. Thus, at 
the end of ten or twelve years, the greater part retire to 
their native places with a considerable sum, part of 
w r hich they previously convert into merchandize. 

The internal regulations and by-laws of the corpo- 
ration are severe. All infractions are punished by fine 
or ejection from the company ; but their honesty and 



326 TIMBER YARDS. 

peaceable conduct are as proverbial as their strength. 
They are intrusted by merchants with valuable parcels 
or bags of coin, and breaches of faith are unknown. 
The most athletic are those who unship and transport 
ox-hides, filled with Moldavian and Wallaehian tallow. 
Powerful as they may be, they seem to stagger under 
the load. Their loud shouts of " Saool ! saool !" (have 
a care) and their heavy breathing show their desire 
not to be impeded in their course, lest the dead weight 
should be increased by diminished impetus. 

After passing Oon Kapou and the corn-factors' 
sheds, rows of shops tenanted by common shoemakers, 
working braziers, grocers, and cooks, meet the eye, 
deafen the ear, and assail the nose. Then comes Odoon 
Kapan (wood store), where the whole supply of timber 
for builders, carpenters, and boatmen is piled. The 
merchants are exclusively Armenians, who carry on a 
flourishing trade, for which they are mainly indebted 
to the constant recurrence of fires, and to the obstinacy 
with which both government and people resist the 
adoption of masonry for building*. 

The parallel streets within the walls, entered at this 

* An exception, remarkable for its extent, lias been recently made. 
The Sublime Porte (Bab-y-Ali), consumed by fire in 1838, has been 
reconstructed in masonry, under the government architect, a Greek, 
named Hadji Nichola. But this innovation would not, most probably, 
have been permitted, had not Riza, Halil, and other influential Pashas, 
possessed shares in the great brick works established at Buyukdery. 
The new buildings occupy a frontage of some three hundred and fifty 
yards, and form a conspicuous object from the opposite shore and Bos- 
phorus. But they have neither height, beauty of design, nor archi- 
tectural merit ; and the whole is rendered insignificant by a multitude 
of small windows, and by the vapid yellow colour with which the walls 
are bedaubed. The " sublimity" of the Vizir's rank and official resi- 
dence, thus finds no corresponding symbol in outward splendour. 



DRIED FRUIT MARKET. 327 

spot through Odoon Kapoossy, are occupied by divers 
laborious trades, such as braziers, locksmiths, tinmen, 
joiners, and carpenters. The articles produced by 
them having been described elsewhere, "\ve will con- 
tinue our progress outside the walls, through the un- 
savoury market of dealers in garlic, onions, eggs, 
and jerked Wallachian beef; leaving on the left hand 
Touz (salt), Kapan, and Yemish Bazar (dried fruit- 
market). The latter busy and lucrative trade is ex- 
clusively in the hands of Moslems, for the most part 
Emirs. Their shops are stored with dates, almonds, 
figs, chestnuts, pistaccio nuts, currants, walnuts, pome- 
granates, filberts, &c*. Of the latter, there is an im- 
mense consumption, especially when roasted or parched 
(fondouk kabab). 

Another dainty sold in the dried fruit-market at- 
tracts the notice of strangers. It consists of rolls of 
thin calico or muslin, smeared with apricot pulp. 
These are imported from Damascus in large quantities. 
Strips, cut off and diluted in water, form a refreshing 
and sweet syrup. 

After traversing a long covered bazar, tenanted by 
slopsellers and ready-made clothesmen, we come to 
Sindan Kapoossy, and the neatly-arranged shops of the 
wax-chandlers. Further on is the street occupied by 
stonemasons (tashler). 

Architectural ornaments, in stone or marble, being 
comparatively unknown, and the making of sculptured 
images being forbidden by the Moslem code, as it is by 
the Jewish commandments, the sculptor's labour is 

* The ripe fruit-market is contiguous. It is celebrated for the musky 
pears of Angora imported in boxes. 



328 TOMBSTONE HEWERS. 

limited to the production of havooz (marble basins), 
fiskaya (fountains), and the small semicircular basins 
and other conveniences always found in edeb khana*. 

But the principal occupation of the trade is the pre- 
paration of mezarlyk tashy (tombstones), for which 
there is universal demand. Let a man's station be what 
it may, his kindred would hold themselves dishonoured, 
were they not to call attention to his last resting-place, 
by erecting a head and foot-stone, recording his name, 
station, date of death, and beseeching a prayer for his 
sourf. The only exceptions are poor soldiers and 
sailors, torn from their distant homes and families. 
They die no one knows when or where, and are hurried 
to their graves unhonoured and forgotten. 

All stonemasons' sheds in the city and public bury- 
ing-grounds are stored with a variety of common 
tombstones ready for all ages. More finished monu- 
ments are made only to order. They also have their 
books of epitaphs for those unprovided with elegiac 
tributes. But before speaking of epitaphs, tombstones, 
and cemeteries, we will describe the mode of interment, 
as practised at Constantinople, where funeral rites differ 
in many points from the written code. 

When indications of approaching dissolution are ob- 
served, the persons present begin repeating the thirty- 

* When Halil Pacha was appointed Grand Admiral, in KJ43, he 
ordered the porticoes of the Admiralty to he adorned on one side 
with small gilded lions, and on the other with eagles, placed on low 
wooden columns. This gave great offence, and was much ridiculed by 
the boatmen. One of the latter, on being asked what those things 
were intended to represent, replied, " God knows ! We live in a new 
world. The beasts are kiupeks (dogs), and the things with wings, kara 
deniz gutch (black sea birds) sent by the Moscovites." 

+ The deceased's age is not inserted. 



FUNERAL CEREMONIES. 329 

sixth chapter of the Kooran, taking care to finish with 
"the profession of faith/' which, according to the 
Prophet's words, suffice to insure admission into 
Paradise. Whilst this is passing, one of the family 
perfumes the chamber with aromatic substances, a 
ceremony never omitted for the poorest person. When 
life has departed, the next of kin close the eyes, stretch 
the limbs, place the hands by the sides, and bind a 
strip of linen round the forehead and chin. The 
body is then removed to another couch, called rakhat 
yataghy (resting-bed), and stripped of all raiment, 
excepting a sittil bezy (waist-cloth) thrown across the 
loins. 

In the mean time, notice of the event, with the 
names of the defunct, his mother, and next heir, is sent 
to the imam of the quarter, who acts as moukhtar 
(deputy mayor) ; he inscribes the particulars upon a slip 
of paper, and sends it to the chief police office, where 
registers are, or ought to be, kept, in which deaths, 
but not births, are inserted. This done, the imam 
summons the muezinn (caller to prayers), who may be 
likened to our clerk, and the latter sends for the bekjee 
(watchman), who is the parish beadle. All three then 
repair to the abode of the deceased, in order to perform 
the indispensable duty of washing the corpse, if it be 
of the male sex. But, if it be that of a female, the 
operation is entrusted to women appointed by the 
imam, as no male may touch or look upon a female 
after death. 

To enable persons officiating to wash the body con- 
veniently, it is lifted from the rakhat yataghy, and 
generally carried down to the ground-floor vestibule, 
where it is stretched upon a low table (tenessheer), which 



330 FUNERAL CEREMONIES. 

is brought from the mosque, together with a copper 
kettle for warming the requisite water. The latter, 
clean and tepid, with white soap, is universally em- 
ployed for these purifications. The ablutions com- 
mence with the right and then the left side, then the 
lower extremities, and lastly, the upper; after which 
the whole body is carefully dried. The imam next 
takes powdered camphor (kiafoory), and rubs the eight 
parts that come most in contact with the earth during 
prayer, namely, the knees, hands, feet, nose, and fore- 
head. 

The last garments are now brought in, and the body 
is enveloped in them. These generally consist of a 
shirt reaching to the knees, a cloth to cover the head 
and chest, and a winding-sheet without seam (kefen) 
long enough to tie in a knot at the extremities. It is 
lawful to clip nails, shave heads, and trim beards of 
men after death, in imitation of Ali, who cut orf the 
Prophet's beard, and handed it down to posterity as a 
precious relic*; but it is expressly forbidden to cut 
women's hair; this must be divided into two equal 
parts, and spread over the shoulders and chest, under 
the ears. 

These duties being rapidly completed, the corpse is 
removed to the resting-bed up stairs, with the right 
side towards Mecca. After this, the bier (taboot) is 
brought in and fumigated, and ere many minutes the 
body is deposited inside. These biers, as regards the 
poor and some devout persons, are kept at mosques for 
general use; that is, they merely serve to convey the 
body from the death-bed to the place of interment, 

* See vol. i., page 208. 



FUNERAL CEREMONIES. 331 

which ceremony always takes place before sunset on 
the day of demise, or, when that is impracticable, at 
an early hour on the following day. Frequent cases of 
premature burial must thus occur. Indeed, an instance 
is recorded in the person of Osman III., who, according 
to popular belief, fell into a trance, from which he was 
aroused when placed in the grave. But his successor, 
Mustafa III., having already been proclaimed, the 
Grand Vizir, Daoud Pasha, a creature of Mustafa's, 
gave instant orders for filling up the grave. 

Biers made expressly for wealthy persons serve as 
coffins. They are of common deal, hastily put together, 
with an angular top, and without internal or external 
ornament. Four short poles, fixed to the side by 
screws, serve as handles for the bearers, and, when placed 
in the earth, turn lengthwise underneath. Devout 
persons frequently order six or more coffins, and deposit 
them at mosques, where they are given in charity and 
successively replaced. 

The body having been deposited in the bier, the 
imam, or nearest male relative, recites the prayers 
appointed for the dead. The last of these merits trans- 
lation. It runs thus: — 

"O Almighty Lord, vouchsafe thy mercy to the 
quick and to the dead— to those present, to those 
absent, and to all persons of both sexes. O my God! 
cause those to live in Islam to whom thou mayest grant 
life, and let those depart in the true faith to whom thou 
awardest death. Let this our deceased brother be 
blessed with the grace of thy holy tranquillity and 
repose, and sanctified with the grace of thy divine 
excellence and goodness. O Almighty Lord! augment 
his merits, if he be among the good, and pardon his 



332 FUNERAL CEREMONIES. 

offences if he be of those who have gone astray. Grant 
him peace, salvation, access, and repose near thy eternal 
throne. Rescue him from the pangs of never-dying 
fire, and admit him to the company of the blessed. O 
my God! convert his tomb into a bed of enjoyment 
equal to that of Paradise, and not into a pit of anguish, 
such as is endured in hell! Be merciful unto him, O 
most merciful of all merciful beings \" 

These sorrowful ceremonies are not performed with- 
out loud demonstrations of grief on the part of the 
females of the family. In most cases, hired weepers 
join their lamentations to those of relatives and 
friends. But they are not permitted to follow the 
corpse to the grave, or to pass the harem threshold. 
Indeed, when once a person is dead, the wife ought not 
to look at the features, which are considered harem 
(forbidden). 

The waitings of Turkish women on these occasions 
are heart-rending, but, loud as they may be, they can- 
not be compared to the piercing screams and impassioned 
exclamations of the Bosphorus Greeks, when death 
robs them of relatives. Their hvsteric and often 
mechanical yells are of the most frantic nature. The 
moment life departs, they and their female neighbours 
fill the death chamber. There they fall upon their 
knees by the bed-side, and whilst some rend their 
clothes and beat their bosoms, others cast loose their 
long tresses, and with convulsive sobs implore the 
deceased to arise. 

A painful scene of this kind took place most un- 
expectedly, in my presence, at the residence of the 
Belgic Envoy at Buyukdery. On returning from walk- 
ing through the Valley of Roses, it was proposed that 



FUNERAL CEREMONIES. 333 

dinner should be served somewhat earlier than usual. 
An Armenian servant was, therefore, directed to give 
the necessary orders. Presently, however, he re- 
appeared, and, with consternation imprinted on his face, 
exclaimed, "Your Excellency cannot be served sooner!" 
"Why not?" asked Mr. de Behr. "Because," rejoined 
the other, "because poor Stefanaky is dead." 

In fact, upon hurrying down stairs, we found the 
unfortunate young man stretched lifeless in his chamber. 
Apoplexy, or the bursting of some inward vessel, had 
hurried him thus suddenly from the world. 

No sooner was this visitation made known to the 
vicinity, than the female relatives of the deceased, with 
a host of women, rushed into the house and commenced 
the death-wail, kept up with frantic energy and few 
intermissions until the following day, when the body 
was consigned to the neighbouring grave-yard. During 
the brief intervals of these piercing outcries, the 
sisters addressed the lifeless corpse with the most 
endearing expressions, such as, " O my brother — O 
brother of my soul! Why did you go? W 7 hat ails 
you? W T hy did you leave us? We love you tenderly! 
Look up, brother of my heart ! See, I am Mariunka, 
your most beloved sister. There is Katinka, the aunt 
that nursed you. O do not laugh at us ! Do not trifle 
with our anguish! O my soul! Would you kill us 
with grief? Open your eyes, Stefanaky — my lamb! 
Look upon Elinka, your cousin, your betrothed! See! 
see! she faints, she dies! But, O holy Panaya! 
What avails her love? He is gone — gone for ever!" 

To return to our subject. The preparatory prayers 
being terminated, the imam steps forward and asks the 
bystanders whether the defunct was a good Musselman, 



334 FUNERAL CEREMONIES. 

worthy of orthodox burial*. This question being 
satisfactorily answered, the nearest relatives lift up the 
bier, and carry it a few paces, when they are relieved 
in succession by others, who transport the body head 
foremost to the place of interment, without going into 
a mosque, in conformity with the words of Mohammed, 
who said, "Mosques are for the living and not for the 
dead," and again, "prayers offered up over the dead, in 
mosques, will be of no avail." This was wisely 
ordained, in order to avert the prejudical consequences 
of interring bodies within the sacred edifices. 

The hurried and unceremonious manner with which 
corpses are carried to cemeteries forms a remarkable 
contrast to the gravity and measured deportment of 
Osmanlis on all other occasions. But here again 
Moslem lawgivers hold it prudent to enforce this regu- 
lation, as a further precaution against contagious mala- 
dies. This, however, is not the motive assigned by the 
Prophet, who settles the question in the following off- 
hand manner. "If the deceased," said he, "be of the 
elect, it is meet to convey him with speed to the goal. 
If he be of those accursed, it is equally meritorious to 
get rid of him with expedition." 

The presence of women, loud weeping, singing, 
lights, incense, and external signs of mourning are 
forbidden unless it be for Sultans. Then the imperial 
muezinn precede the body chanting hymns in a low 
voice, and cassolets filled with burning aloes-wood are 
earned in front. It is considered meritorious for ail 

* Should no one reply affirmatively, the imam is entitled to refuse his 
ministry, and the police must hury the body without ceremony, as we 
bury a felo de se, or as Catholics often inter those who have died without 
receiving the last sacraments. 



FUNERAL CEREMONIES. 335 

persons to aid in carrying biers a few paces. The 
Prophet sanctified this practice by saying, "He that 
aids in carrying a corpse forty paces towards the grave 
thereby expiates a mortal sin." But, generally speaking, 
this duty is limited to friends and persons of the same 
class as the deceased. 

Bier-heads of men are always distinguished by fez or 
turbans, and the angular lids of both sexes are covered 
with shawls or handkerchiefs, in lieu of palls. If the 
body be conveyed in the common bier, it is taken out, 
on reaching the grave (mezar), and sometimes placed in 
a strip of matting; but more frequently males are 
merely buried in their winding sheets, and with the 
face uncovered. If the bier be made expressly, it 
serves as a coffin ; but the lid is pushed back so as not 
to conceal the features. Women, unless of the poorest 
class, are buried in coffins with the face covered. In 
all cases, the corpse is deposited in the grave the 
moment it arrives, and with the right side turned 
towards Mecca. The mezarjee (grave diggers) then 
place several short planks diagonally over the body, the 
upper end resting against the grave side, so as to keep 
the earth from falling upon the body*. 

This done, the chief mourner casts a handful of 
mould into the pit, and the earth is rapidly thrown in, 
and saturated with water, to give consistency. When 
this operation is finished, the assistants seat themselves, 
and the imam repeats the short funeral prayer called 
telkinn, having first bent over the grave, and thrice 
called aloud the name of the deceased and that of his 

* Armenians and Greeks are buried without coffins, closely sewed up 
in their winding-sheets. 



33G FUNERAL CEREMONIES. 

mother. When the mother's name is not known, that 
of the Virgin Mary is substituted For men, and that of 
Eve for women, thus: "Oh Hassan, son of Mary," or 
"Oh Saliha, daughter of Eve." When the first prayer 
is ended, the imam, followed by all present, recites the 
fat i ha*, after which the service terminates, and the 
assistants disperse. The expenses of ordinary funerals, 
including subsequent charities, average five hundred 
piastres; those of the poor, thirty piastres. 

In wealthy families, the ceremonies do not end with 
interment. It is usual to invite some eight or ten the- 
ological students to read the Kooran entirely through 
at night. This is rapidly accomplished by dividing the 
chapters among them. For this they receive supper 
and a present in money. On the third day also, a 
quantity of small round cakes, called lokma (mouth- 
fuls), are distributed among the poor. It is customary, 
moreover, for heirs to perform various acts of charity 
and piety not mentioned in the will of the deceased. 
Thus some purchase Koorans, and give them to 
orphans or to charity schools. Othe.rs dig wells, or 
erect fountains; whilst others clothe a certain number 
of poor children. 

The funerals of all persons are conducted on foot. 
The only distinction between the biers of rich and poor 
consists in the shawls spread over the lids. Biers of 
Sultans and members of the imperial family are also 
carried on men's shoulders, but arc followed by cour- 
tiers and grand dignitaries on horseback. The pace is 
equally hurried, and the previous and subsequent cere- 
monies similar, except in the splendour of attendants, 
and in that of the last resting-place, called toorba. 
* First chapter of Kooran. 



MAUSOLEUMS. 337 

These mausoleums are anions: the most interesting 



sights in the city, and are erected with few exceptions 
outside the Mecca face of mosques, behind the mikhrab 
(altar niche). The most imposing of these, as a spe- 
cimen of modified Saracenic architecture, is that of 
Suleiman the Great ; the most brilliant, a composite of 
Greek and Italian, that of Mahmoud II., near the 
Burned Column. The generality are lofty, airy, and 
well lighted by several windows, sometimes filled with 
stained glass. The walls are adorned with arabesques, 
inscriptions from the Kooran, or with portions of the 
Boordha (poem of the holy mantle) in gold letters on 
green or blue ground. Glass lustres, lamps, and 
ostrich eggs, with pendent silken tassels, are sus- 
pended from the roofs, and the marble floors, where 
not occupied by sandooka (biers), covered with carpets. 
All toorbas are raised above the level of the sur- 
rounding ground. Some are encircled by a covered 
gallery, supported by columns. In almost all cases 
there is a vestibule before the entrance, over the doors 
of which are chronographs, or inscriptions recording 
the titles and dates of founders. Bodies are laid in the 
earth, and a slab of marble, open in the centre, and 
elevated about eight inches, is placed over the spot. 
The sandooka, consisting of an empty, coffin-shaped 
frame, is superposed. Those of imperial founders are 
of gigantic proportions, and are covered, firstly, with a 
strip of the embroidered veil of the keaba of Mecca, 
brought back for the purpose, and Avith seven shawls. 
Six of the latter are folded lengthwise, and laid sepa- 
rately across the angular lid ; the seventh is wound 
round the short vertical projection that supports the 
fez, or turban. The heads of these biers, which at 

VOL. III. Q 



338 IMPERIAL MAUSOLEUMS. 

Constantinople always point to the south-west, are 
ornamented with inscriptions in gold embroidery, upon 
a crimson ground, recording the name, style, and titles 
of the deceased. 

A parmaklyk (balustrade) of cedar, richly carved and 
inlaid -with mother of pearl, encircles the bier. Gi- 
gantic wax-tapers, in silver or brass candelabra, stand 
in front, and several Koorans are placed upon X- 
shaped rests for the use of the readers, at the head and 
sides*. The biers of sultans and princes are distin- 
guished by fez, or turbans surmounted with aigrettes ; 
those of sultanas are smaller and without turbans, and 
have only one or two shawls spread over the whole 
length. None but sultans, sultana-mothers, and their 
issue, are interred in imperial mausoleums. Kadinns, 
being slaves, are buried in adjacent cemeteries, or in 
spots selected by themselves elsewhere. 

The following is a list of imperial toorbas, with the 
names of sultans buried therein, according to the dates 
of death or foundation, 

Mohammed II. (1481), contiguous to his mosque. 

Here the conqueror reposes alone. But he erected a 

mausoleum to his mother, Acclyma (the learned), within 

the same precincts. This princess was said to have 

been a daughter of Charles VII. of France : being 

on her way to espouse the Greek Emperor, John V., 

she was captured by a Turkish corsair and presented to 

Murad II., father of Mohammed II. Sultan Mahmoud 

II. erected a splendid tomb for his mother within the 

same inclosure. It contains numerous biers belonging 

to his familyf. 

* See vignette, c. v., vol. ii. 

•f- Eighteen of his children preceded him to the grave. 



IMPERIAL MAUSOLEUMS. 339 

Bajazet II. (1512) in the garden of his mosque. 
This mausoleum also contains the ashes of his mother 
Gul Bahar (rose of spring). 

Selim I. (1520) close to his mosque upon the 
fifth hill. Here he rests alone. Two contiguous 
mausoleums contain the remains of his grandsons, 
Princes Mahmoud, Abdullah, and Murad, sons of the 
great Suleiman, and those of Hafisa (the prudent), 
mother of Suleiman. 

Shahzadeh (1544). In the garden of the mosque of 
that name. Here repose Mohammed, eldest and fa- 
vourite son, and Mustafa, second son of Suleiman, by 
the renowned Khasseky, both victims to the jealousy 
of her rival Churrem (the frolicsome). 

Suleiman I. (1566), described in our sixth chapter. 
Here also are the biers of Suleiman II. (d. 1690) and 
Achmet II. (d. 1697). 

Selim II. (1575) in the southern court of Aya Sofia, 
where he is interred by the side of Noor Banou (lady 
of light), Valida to his son Murad III. 

Murad III. adjoining the former (1595). In this 
repose the seventeen murdered brothers and the son of 
Mohammed III., who was laid by the side of his 
victims in 1602. 

Achmet I. (161 7)> at the north-east angle of that 
Sultan's mosque. This building, more solid than 
graceful, is crowded with biers; among others, those 
of Osman II., strangled by the Janissaries (1652), and 
Murad IV. (d. 1640) ; of Princes Mohammed and 
Bajazet, the one murdered by his elder brother Osman 
II., and the other, the hero of Racine's tragedy, put to 
death by his younger brother, Mustafa I. 

Mustafa I. (1623), one of the least remarkable of 

Q 2 



340 IMPERIAL MAUSOLEUMS. 

these constructions. It was erected after his death in 
the court of Aya Sofia, and opens into Divan Yolly. 
It contains the remains of the founder and of Ibrahim, 
both strangled. 

Valida Terkhan Sultana (1G65), foundress of the 
contiguous mosque, near Balyk Bazary. Here also are 
seen the coffins of her son Mohammed IV. (d. 1(187) 
and grandson Mustafa II, (dethroned 1703), and of 
Sultans Achmet III. (d. 1730), Mahmoud I. (d. 1754), 
and Osman III. (d. 1 7 -> 7 ) • 

Mustafa III. 77~>), south-east of the Lalely 
(tulip) mosque; here also is buried Selim III., mur 
dered in 1807. 

Abdoul Hamid (1789), in the street called Vizir 
Yolly, leading from Baghtshy Kapoossy to the Seraglio 
and Porte. This is one of the most interesting and 
airy. It contains the body of the founder and of 
the murdered Sultan Mustafa IV., together with many 
children and sisters of the former. 

Mahmoud II. (1839), surpasses all others in splen- 
dour. It is of white marble, and octangular form, 
lighted by seven large windows, protected by elaborate 
iron gratings, richly gilt. It is furnished with sofas, 
arm-chairs, white siik draperies, glass chandeliers, 
clocks, and carpets. The Sultan's bier, surmounted 
by the plumed fez, is of unusual dimensions. The 
shawls, balustrades, candelabra, and accessories, cor- 
respond in splendour. The folding doors are orna- 
mented with gold mouldings. Five windows open into 
Divan Yolly; the remainder face a beautiful garden, 
redolent of flowers. Contiguous to this is a noble 
sebil khana, to which is annexed a small apartment, 
luxuriously furnished. But the light, elegance, and 



IMPERIAL MAUSOLEUMS. 311 

graceful beauty of this edifice, detract from its solem- 
nity. It has the air of a lofty music-room, not that of 
a depository for the dead. It contains the mortal re- 
mains of Mahmoud II., of his sister Habait Ullah, and 
of his daughters Saliha and Khadija. 

Valida Gulnar Sultana (1804). This beautiful edifice 
■was erected by Selim III., in honour of his mother. 
It forms the principal ornament of the street leading 
from the landing-place of Eyoub to the north-eastern 
entrance of the mosque. Although surpassed in splen- 
dour by others, this toorba excels all in the extent and 
utility of its annexed establishments, which occupy 
three-fourths of the western side of this avenue of 
tombs. At the southern extremity stands the octan- 
gular mausoleum, containing the remains of the Valida 
and two of her daughters. North of this is a pretty 
garden, surrounding the entrance, and filled with illus- 
trious graves. Among the most remarkable is that of 
Kutchuk Hossein Pasha, Grand Admiral, and husband 
of Esma Sultana, who co-operated with our valiant 
Smith in the defence of Acre, and died in 1804. This 
and other tombs, distinguished by vizirial turbans, 
called kalavee, are enclosed with green wire-work, 
ornamented with gilt bars and rosettes, and shaded by 
roses and jessamines. Nothing is wanting but a few 
singing-birds, to give them the appearance of splendid 
aviaries. 

Contiguous to this garden court is a distinct building, 
containing a college for forty students, two gratuitous 
elementary schools for twenty children each, and a 
kitchen for distributing food to forty poor people daily. 
The front is screened by a lofty wall, pierced with 
gratings, and surmounted by tablets, containing golden 



342 PUBLIC CEMETERIES. 

inscriptions upon a green ground. These useful esta- 
blishments are flanked on the left by a picturesque 
sebil khana, of various coloured marbles, in the florid 
Saracenic style. The "whole is carefully cleaned and 
preserved, and presents a most graceful union of piety, 
charity, and public utility. 

The above toorbas are selected as the most remarkable 
among some two hundred, which embellish various 
quarters of the city. The next step is to the open 
cemeteries, which furnish incessant employment to the 
corporation of stone-masons. 

These mighty death-fields have been immortalized by 
Byron, and portrayed with graphic solemnity by the 
author of " Anastasius*." Their vast extent, their sombre 
wildncss, their neglected splendour, their picturesque 
confusion, and their mournful solitude, have furnished 
abundant matter for writers of all nations : I will there- 
fore confine myself to the most holy and interesting — 
that of Eyoub, the vale of golden tombs. 

It must be observed, nevertheless, that cemeteries, of 
greater or less extent, fringe the city from the Seven 
Towers to the acclivities beyond Eyoub, and that they 
crown the eminences and feather the valleys from Kara 
Agatch to Beshiktash. They cluster also in verdant 
patches upon every knoll or sheltered spot from Tchera- 
ghan to Roomely Ilissar, and onward to the Vale of 
Roses ; whilst clumps of dark foliage mark their frequency 
upon the opposite coast, from the foot of Yousha Dagh 

* Mr. Hope, whilst writing a portion of " Anastasius," resided in a 
pavilion now inclosed within the gardens of the Austrian palace at 
Buyukdery. His favourite retreat for meditation and composition was in 
the Vale of Roses, in which is situated a picturesque and sequestered 
cemetery. 



PUBLIC CEMETERIES. 343 

to the heights above Scutari, where they terminate in 
that far- stretching cypress forest, whose roots imbibe 
nourishment, and whose branches extract renewed 
vigour, from the mouldering relics of countless thou- 
sands. Nor are they limited to external quarters. 
They occupy almost every vacant spot within the walls. 
They nestle in corners, obtrude upon highways, and 
intermingle with shops and habitations ; thus rendering 
the contiguity of the dead familiar to the living, and 
strengthening that resignation to the Divine will with 
which all Moslems encounter the last hour. 

Amono; the most remarkable of these tumularv lines 
of circumvallation is the vast cemetery of the Jews upon 
the heights above Khass Kouy, a prolongation of the 
Ok Maidan. This desolate abode of death is distin- 
guished from all others, by being denuded of trees, and 
by the pentagonal form of the solid coffin-shaped 
sarcophagi, placed upon the horizontal grave stones. 
These marble sarcophagi, as well as the subjacent 
slabs, are ornamented with sculptured flowers and 
inscriptions, the Avork of Hebrew artists. 

The aspect of this wilderness produces more solemn 
and imposing effects than the cypress-shaded groves of 
the Bosphorus, or the gilded inclosures of the city. 
The stern repose of these countless blocks of recumbent 
marble, impresses the mind with awe and disposes to 
meditation. Seen from a distance, this wide-spreading 
Golgotha appears like the relics of some noble city laid 
prostrate by Almighty dispensation. Even upon nearer 
approach, it seems as if earth, agitated by convulsive 
throes, had cast forth the biers, and left them and their 
contents blanched and petrified, to await the eternal 
summons. 

But let us to Eyoub, through Aeevan Serai Gate, 



344 CEMETERIES AT EYOUB. 

outside of which the walls incline to the south, and the 
range of cemeteries commence. 

The first portion of the external street forms a striking 
contrast, on spring and summer mornings, with the 
contiguous records of mortality, and above all with the 
unsavoury stores of the curriers further on. It is called 
Gul Bazary (rose market), being the spot where the 
neighbouring flower-gardeners assemble on Fridays, 
and tempt those who visit this venerated quarter with 
the finest roses, carnations, and jessamines. 

The first tomb of importance, after passing the newly 
erected fez manufactory, is that of Shah Sultana, of 
whose imperious character mention has been made. 
The toorba, to which are annexed a charity school and 
fountain, is immediately opposite to the deserted palace 
of Esma Sultana, and contains the ashes of Shah Sul- 
tana, her mother, and of her husband. Further on appear 
a multitude of half-ruined tombs, the resting-places 
of eminent jurisconsults, sheikhs, learned men, and 
functionaries, distinguished by their turbans; but for 
the most part defaced, or choked by rank vegetation. 
Contrasting with these, is a neatly ornamented garden 
at the south-east angle of a short street called Tchaool, 
from its being tenanted by weavers, who work the rich 
furniture silks monopolized by the imperial palaces. 
This garden has been selected by Tahir Pasha, the best 
and bravest seaman in the Turkish navy, as his last 
abode. It is inclosed with high walls, pierced with iron 
gratings, ornamented with anchors, emblematic of the 
functions of Grand Admiral which Tahir has thrice 
held, and must again resume, should Turkey stand in 
need of her fleet*. 

* The deplorable effects of England having aided in driving tins 



CEMETERIES AT EYOUB. 345 

Tchaool (weavers') Yolly terminates immediately 
opposite to Gulnar Sultana's fountain. Here com- 
mences the gala assemblage of tombs, that cluster in 
dense and glittering confusion around the sacred 
edifice, imperatively closed to Christians. It is at the 
north-west angle of the Weavers'-street, that the late 
Saliha Sultana erected a small toorba to the memory of 
her two murdered infants, Abdoul Hamid and Achmet 
Beys. The toorba consists of an airy chamber within 
which are deposited two small biers, covered with richly 
embroidered velvet, adorned with shawls, embroidered 
fez, and coloured kalemkery handkerchiefs. Under- 
neath the fez are affixed the epitaphs, written in gold 
letters upon a black ground, framed and glazed. One 
of these epitaphs will suffice as a specimen. 

a A flower that had scarcely bloomed was prematurely 
torn from its stem. It has been removed to those 
bowers where roses never languish. Its parent's tears 
will supply refreshing moisture. Say a fateha for its 
beatitude. 1259. (1843)." 

Readers are appointed in perpetuo to recite the 
Kooran, and to pray for the innocent babies' souls. 
They would better employ their time, perchance, in 
beseeching the Almighty to soften the hearts of those 
who perpetrate these abominable murders, and to 
enlighten their minds with the merciful spirit of his 
divine grace. 

Opposite to the foregoing mausoleum is a walled 
inclosure, occupying the whole space to the verge of the 
mosque. This is the coveted resting-place of the 

minister from office in 1842 are already perceptible in the ascendency 
of Russia, and the retrograde policy of the Porte. 

Q S 



346 CEMETERIES AT EYOUB. 

highest dignitaries. The tombs within depart widely 
from the simplicity of past times, being fantastically 
sculptured and charged with coloured or gilded devices. 
Some are encircled with wire gratings ; all are vivified 
■with flowering shrubs. 

The most holy and renowned amidst this vast crowd 
of illustrious tombs is that of the Prophet's standard- 
bearer, Eyoub Ben Said Ansarry, who is said to have 
carried Mohammed's banner at the battle of Bedr, 
and to have lost his life, nearly half a century later, 
during the third Arab siege of Constantinople, in 6^2. 
His burial-place, which the Dervishes and Sheikhs 
attached to the court and army of Mohammed II. 
pretended to have discovered during the bombardment 
of 1453, is situated within the western side of the harem, 
and not upon the south-eastern exterior as others as- 
sert. This results from the contiguity of the rocks 
which prevented the mosque from being erected west of 
the grave. The sanctity of this spot is so great, and the 
jealousy of the guardians and people is so excitable, that 
it is impossible for Franks to break through the yassak 
(a forbidden thing), and to enter the mosque or tomb. 
It is possible however to penetrate into the inner court, 
and thus to obtain a hasty view of the sanctuary. 

This I effected under favour of peculiar circumstances, 
and, approaching close to the window of the tomb, saw 
that the sandooka was covered with rich embroidered 
silks, remnants of the coverings of the keaba. The 
head was ornamented with a large felt cap entwined 
with a green handkerchief. The sandooka was fenced 
by a lofty balustrade of wrought silver ; six enormous 
candlesticks of silver, holding gigantic wax -tapers, were 
placed around, interpersed with Kooran rests, support- 



CEMETERIES AT EYOUB. 347 

ing copies transcribed by illustrious hands. A green 
banner, symbolic of that carried by the " holy standard- 
bearer/' was suspended above the bier. The walls were 
adorned with many inscriptions, some on porcelain 
squares, and others on tablets written by Sultans. 
Lamps, chandeliers, and ostrich-eggs hung from the 
domed ceiling. The whole had a gloomy and austere 
aspect, well suited to the object. It is pretended that 
the small fountain, in the contiguous court, is connected 
by subterraneous channels with the famous well of 
Zemzem at Mecca. This belief, general among the 
people, adds to the sanctity of the spot, and augments 
the vigilance with which the approaches are guarded. 

Tomb-stones in open cemeteries are divided into 
three classes. 

1. Those of the poor, consisting of two vertical 
stones, the one about four feet high at the head, and 
the other three at the foot. 

2. Those of middling classes, having, in addition to 
head and foot stones, a flat slab over the grave, pierced 
with a longitudinal aperture in the centre. This aper- 
ture is made in deference to the precept, which forbids 
the entire covering of graves with solid substances. 
An idea exists among common people that this opening 
is left to facilitate the ingress and egress of the two 
angels, Monker and Naker, whose business it is to 
examine and question the dead. At the angles of the 
flat slabs are circular excavations, made, as some pre- 
tend, with a view of preserving water for the birds that 
nestle in the neighbouring cypresses — a useless pre- 
caution, as these excavations are always empty in dry 
weather. They are, in fact, mere ornaments, common 
to Christians and Moslems. 



348 TOMBS. 

The third and higher classes consist of sarcophagi 
without covers, generally similar to the tomb of the 
renegade Bonncval represented in our first vignette, 
though sometimes more richly ornamented. At first, 
these tributes of affection have a light and pleasing 
appearance; but they are soon neglected. Few in- 
stances of repairs or attention occur after the first genera- 
tion, unless they be attached to some pious foundation, 
or contain the ashes of holy men, whose sanctity 
attracts pilgrims or devout persons. But this devotion 
generally leads to the disfigurement of the iron gratings 
or of the branches of overhanging shrubs. Supersti- 
tions, somewhat similar to those seen in Roman Catholic 
churches, prevail among the lower orders, who imagine 
that a strip of linen, torn from the raiment of sick 
persons and attached to the tomb, will produce salutary 
effects upon the bodily and spiritual health of sufferers. 
It is believed that, in proportion as these rags rot and 
disappear, so will maladies decrease in this world, or 
sins be effaced in the next. It is common, therefore, 
to see the gratings of holy men's tombs covered with 
these filthy ex-votos, which, in time of pestilence, serve 
as additional mediums for contagion. 

Although it was, and is, the fashion for some great 
persons to direct that their last resting-places should 
only be made known by a short vertical column, ninety- 
nine out of a hundred monuments bear epitaphs, and 
are more or less ornamented. The head-stones of men 
are invariably surmounted by fez or turbans, cut out of 
the same block. Those of women terminate in a point, 
or in the form of an expanded leaf or cockle-shell. 
Foot-stones are ornamented with sculptured or painted 
flowers. 



EPITAPHS. 349 

Epitaphs are less varied and poetical than might be 
expected from the flowery imagination of Orientals. 
They contain the name, occupation, date of death, and 
a few lines, more anticipatory of future blessings than 
commemorative of past worth. They always com- 
mence with an invocation to the Almighty, such as, 
"He, the immortal," or "God is alone eternal," followed 
by some such words as these: 

"The departed in God and hoping for pardon*, Seyid 
Osman Agha, commander of the 44th Booluk (com- 
pany) of Janissaries. A prayer for his soul. 10 Zil- 
hidja 1211." 

"This world is transitory. Nought is durable but 
God. This day for me. To-morrow for thee. The 
deceased in the Lord, Chekib Halil Effendi, clerk of 
the Imperial Divan. A Fatehaf for his soul. Reby-ul 
Evel 1190." 

Some epitaphs, especially those of women, are more 
elaborate. The following, taken at random in various 
cemeteries, will serve as examples for both sexes. 
Being generally written in verse, they lose much by 
translation. 

Epitaph on the stone which marks the spot where 
rests the head of the once puissant Ali Tebelen of 
Yanina, close to those of his sons Vely, Mooktar, and 
Salif, and of his grandson Mohammed. These five 
stones, represented in our vignette, may be seen in 
front of the Silivry Gate. 

" He alone is eternal. 

" The Governor of the Province of Yanina, who ren- 

* Maghfoor ve Merkhoom : these words are never applied to deceased 
heretics or unbelievers. 

-j- The Fateha, or 1st chapter of the Kooran, is always employed like 
the Ave of Rome. 



350 EPITAPHS. 

dered himself independent during more than thirty 
years — the celebrated xVli Pacha. Here is his head! 
5 Djamezy ul-Evel 1227*. (1812). 

Upon the tomb of a young student in the Pera 
cemeteiy : 

" Unity and eternity are His. 

" Alas ! alas ! the blight of autumn withered the spring 
of my existence. The sentence of fate went forth and 
prematurely claimed my soul. Night and day did I 
diligently labour in the vineyard of science and instruc- 
tion, but I was summoned hence, ere I had tasted of 
life's ripe fruit, and my soul, soaring upwards, winged 
its course to the gardens of eternity. The deceased in 
God and pardoned, Mohammed Seyid Effendy, son of 
Hadjy Ismail Zadeh, Khetkoda (elder) of the Tailors' 
company. A prayer for his soul. 1251." 

Upon the tomb of a lady in the cemetery of the pic- 
turesque and romantically situated mosque of Piaii 
Pasha, near the Ok Maidany : 

" God is imperishable. 

" Pardon me, O Lord, by virtue of thy resplendent 
firmament and the Kooran's light. Approach my tomb, 
O friends ! and grant my soul the favour of a prayer. 
The deceased in God, Hannifa Khanum, wife of Ali 
Agha. May the Almighty be satisfied with her soul. 
Pray for it. 1184." 

Upon the headstone of Bonncval, in the cemetery of 
the Mevlevy Dervishes at Pera : 

" In the name of Almighty God. 

"May He, the most High and Holy, vouchsafe mercy 
to the faithful of both sexes, and pardon to the com- 

* No prayer is requested for his soul, he having been decapitated and 
his body interred elsewhere. 



EPITAPHS. 351 

mander of the bombardiers, Achmet Pasha. Rejib, 
1160 (March, 1747)" 

On the tomb of a young lady in the Pera cemetery : 
" He, the immortal. 

" The chilling blast of fate caused this nightingale to 
wins; its course to heaven. It has there found merited 
enjoyment. Lababa wrote this inscription, and offered 
up an humble prayer for Zeinab. But weep not for 
her j she has become a sojourner in the gardens of 
Paradise. 1223*." 

Upon the tomb of a favourite black Agha of the pre- 
sent Sultan, close to the road-side, leading through the 
great cemetery, from Pera to Dolma Baghtshy: 
" He, the immortal and merciful. 

"Ettem belonged to those nearest and most pre- 
cious to the Sultan's person. Alas ! how quickly he 
departed to another world ! Imperial favour was of 
no avail. Many were the days during which his soul 
was consumed by grief and sorrow. Such was the 
portion allotted to him by divine will. But he is des- 
tined to reap eternal recompense, upon that day when 
favour will be shown to none. He however possessed 
an upright heart, therefore, O Nezef ! inscribe the date 
of his death with a jewelled pen-f-. May Ettem Bey's 
happy bed of rest be like to the garden of Eden. 1253." 

Upon a lady who died in child-birth, Scutari: 
" He is alone eternal. 

" From this perishable to a better world the young 
and excellent Laila Khanum departed, whilst depositing 
her burden. Tree and fruit were both transported to 

* Lababa was a Turkish poet celebrated for his elegies, mostly written 
in Arabic. 

•f- Nezef Effeady is a popular elegiac writer attached to the palace. 



352 EPITAPHS. 

the gardens of Paradise. Rivers of tears cannot efface 
the dear-heart's image from the memory of her hus- 
band, Osman Agha, son of Ismael Reis. A prayer for 
their souls. 1248." 

One of the most remarkable epitaphs in the neigh- 
bourhood, well known and cited by all Turks, is to be 
seen upon a plain stone at no great distance from the 
Rose-market of Eyoub. It runs thus : 
11 He, the Immortal. 

" The hands of a cruel woman caused the death of 
the blessed and pardoned Hadjy Mohammed, the en- 
graver. Pray for him. 1120." 

It is said that the worthy Hadjy, a devout and meek 
man, did not meet his death by poison or dagger, as 
might be supposed. But he had a termagant wife, who 
harassed him night and day, until at length she fairly 
worried him out of the world. Finding death at hand, 
he wrote his own epitaph, which is considered the 
more singular, as allusion to such subjects is never made 
upon monuments. 

That portion of the small Pera burying-ground at 
the back of the Arsenal is renowned for its sanctity, 
and for containing the remains of many of the old Arab 
devotees, who perished in the early sieges. Among 
the most remarkable of its tombs is that of Mayt 
Zadeh (son of the dead), who derived his name from 
the following miracle. It shall be given nearly in the 
words of Evlia. 

"This spot is celebrated for lads and lasses meeting 
there; for peaches and delicious apricots; for Jemsha 
o-rapes and grapes of Shem (Syria) ; for clotted cream, 
milk, and fat mutton. Within and around this quarter 
are the shrines and tombs of many saints, who rest 



EPITAPHS. 353 

with God. Now it chanced that the father of Mayt 
Zadeh, being bound for the holy war against Crete, 
ere the time of his wife's delivery had arrived, lifted up 
his voice and exclaimed, 'May that which is in my 
wife's womb be in God's keeping!' and so he departed. 
His khatun (spouse) being taken ill, died before her 
child's birth, and was buried; but, by the will of God, 
she was delivered in her grave, and her infant clung to 
her bosom and drew life therefrom. Upon that day 
the husband returned from the war and learned what 
had happened. Therefore, being firm in faith, he 
exclaimed, * I committed the fruit of my wife's womb 
to God. Let us see!'" 

"Then inquiring where they had interred his wife, 
he went thither, and, opening the tomb — lo! he found 
the infant sleeping upon its dead mother's breast. 
Whereupon he devoutly returned thanks to the Lord, 
and, clasping his son to his heart, he filled up the grave 
and returned home. Having been carefully reared, 
under the name of Mayt Zadeh, the child grew up in 
strength and wisdom, and became a learned Oolema. 
At length, having attained an advanced age, he was 
summoned from this perishable world during the reign 
of Sultan Achmet, and was again buried by the side of 
his mother, and a dome was erected over their bodies." 

The general abolition of turbans and distinctive head- 
dresses attracts greater notice to the only remaining 
records of these obsolete fashions, which, though 
strictly defined, were as various as they were frequently 
tasteless and grotesque. For, the higher a man's func- 
tions, the more cumbrous and unmeaning was his 
regulation head-gear. The turbans seen in toorbas, or 
sculptured in open cemeteries, include all principal 
classes, save the state caps of Janissaries which, were 



354 TURBANS ON TOMBS. 

never modelled upon tombs*. A brief description of 
imperial, civil, and military turbans, from their rirst 
establishment, may not be out of place, and may serve 
as an historical record. 

Imperial Turbans. 

Usskyuf — the most ancient. No models of these 
exist at Stamboul, but they may be seen in the toorbas 
of Murad I. and his two successors at Broussa. Their 
two predecessors, Osman and Orkan, wore simple 
Tartar caps of red, brown, or black felt, called Tajh 
Khorassany (Khorassan Crowns) without muslin winders 
except on state occasions. Usskyuf consisted of conical 
felt caps, as worn by Mcvlevy Dervishes, covered with 
silver brocade and encircled at the base with a white 
muslin winder, fringed with gold. After the conquest, 
these caps were given by Mohammed II. to the Janis- 
sary Chiefs, who wore them without winders. Models 
may be seen in the cemeteries, having the fjrm of a 
grenadier cap. 

Urf — introduced by Murad II., who gave it to the 
Oolema; but Mohammed II. adopted it for his state 
head-dress after the conquest. It consisted of a bulky, 
barrel-shaped frame of wicker and cotton, eighteen 
inches high, covered with white muslin and ribbed 
verticallv like a large melon. A roll of the same 
material was coiled five times round the frame and 
point of the internal red skull cap, which protruded 
through the crown. The summit was adorned with 
two aigrettes in diamond sockets, as seen in the 

* Although the tombs of Janissaries were generally mutilated by order 
of the Sultan on the destruction of the Odas, numbers still remain intact 
in every direction, as proved by the epitaphs. It is said that Mahmoud 
more than once played the part of iconoclast with his own hands ; but 
this is peremptorily denied by well-informed Turks. 



TURBANS ON TOMBS. 355 

mausoleum of Mohammed II. Urfs similar in shape 
may be found in many directions; they denote the 
tombs of Dervish Sheikhs and first-class Oolemas. 

Moojavezy — introduced by Bajazet II. They were 
cylindrical flat-topped caps of white linen, sixteen 
inches high, gradually increasing in diameter to the 
crown. On the centre of the latter was a red tuft, or 
sometimes a hollow. Thin rolls of white muslin were 
stitched up the four sides and crossed at the top. On 
the death of Bajazet II. moojavezy became the official 
dress of imperial chamberlains, eunuchs, and second- 
class public functionaries. Specimens may be seen on 
the biers of Bajazet and Suleiman, and on various private 
tombs*. 

Selimmy — a cap of nearly the same shape, but 
shorter and broader. It was introduced by Selim I., 
and ornaments his bier. It was also worn by the 
chief eunuchs of the household. 

Yoosufy — introduced by Suleiman the Great as the 
imperial state cap. On ordinary occasions, this Sultan 
and all his successors down to Abdoul Hamid, either 
wore moojavezy, or the common turban called kaook, 
of which anonf. Yoosufy are smaller, but similar in 
form to urf. They ornament the biers of Abdoul 
Hamid and Mustafa IV., and are supposed to represent 
the cap worn by Joseph when made governor of Egypt 
— thence the name. 

Civil Turbans. 

Kalavee, exclusively reserved for Grand Vizirs, Capu- 
dan Pasha, and Kizlar Aghassy. These were pyramidal 
bonnets of white felt, about twenty inches high, and 

* See vignette, chap, ii., vol. ii. 

f When Sultans received Christian ambassadors, they wore the 
kaook, not condescending to put on the state head dress. 



35G TURBANS ON TOM3S. 

consisting of four distinct pieces united vertically, and 
ornamented with a broad strip of gold lace placed 
diagonally on the front. Specimens maybe Been on the 
tombstones of Ali of Yanina and Kutchnk Hosscin 
Pashas. The upper portion of the road side, in the 
Scutari cemetery, is flanked with these ponderous and 
unsightly turbans, many of which mark the spots 
where trunklcss heads are deposited. 

Khorassany. — This was of Tartar origin and intro- 
duced as some assert, after the conquest of Erivan, by 
Murad the Fourth's short-lived favourite, Emir Ghean, 
who betrayed that fortress into the Sultan's hands. This 
turban may be seen in all the cemeteries. It \\a> 
exclusively reserved for the hodjia Ithian (secretaries) 
attached to public offices. The dimensions of this 
fantastic head-dress were augmented <>r diminished at 
the will of sovereigns, but the form was preserved*. 

Kaook. — This was the ordinary turban of Mollas, 
Effendys, and of the highest classes in undress. It 
consisted of a red fez or cap, encircled by a saryk of 
white muslin, as now worn by imams, churchmen, and 
lawyers. Kaook are the turbans commonly seen upon 
tombstones, and are sometimes ornamented with a 
sculptured or painted flower, indicating that the deceased 
is elevated, as it is hoped, to the rose gardens of 
heavenly enjoyment. 

Takya, Barctta, and Kewla, were worn by different 
departments of the imperial household, and are often 
met with in retired parts of cemeteries. 

Military Turbans. 

Kalyfat — lofty caps of white felt, encircled with 
white muslin, fringed with gold lace, worn by Janissaries 

See vignette, vol. iii. c. 2. 



TURBANS ON TOMBS. 357 

of all ranks. They were divided into eleven classes, 
each denoting a different rank. Among the most com- 
mon were — 

Kitsha, worn by subalterns and non-commissioned. It 
was of reversed conical shape, flat-crowned, and about 
eighteen inches high. A strip of felt, about two feet 
long, was suspended from the summit and hung down 
the back, much in the manner common with Croats in 
the time of Frederick the Great. This was intended 
to represent the sleeve of Hadjy Bektash, who, upon the 
first enrolment of the corps at Gallipoli, waved his 
loose sleeve over the heads of the recruits and blessed 
them and their posterity. In front was a small brass 
socket, in which was inserted a wooden spoon, in the 
way that our soldiers wear tufts or feathers. This spoon 
was emblematic of the readiness of the Janissaries to 
eat the Sultan's pilaf, and thence symbolic of obedience. 

It was contrary to etiquette to ornament tombstones 
with these kitsha; no trace of them is consequently 
found in the cemeteries. Wherever Janissaries' tomb- 
stones are seen, they are surmounted with the common 
kaook, unless it be those of Serdengetchdys, which may 
be recognised by the narrow conical top, and elongated 
winder*. Many of the latter may be seen in that 
portion of the " small burying ground," to the right of 
the path leading from Pera to Galata Tower. This spot, 



* See vignette, vol. iii. c. 2. The Serdengetchdys (lost heads, or 
more properly, men who abandoned their heads and lives to their coun- 
try's service,) consisted of several companies selected from the bravest 
Janissaries, in the same manner that French grenadiers are, and English 
grenadiers ought to be, selected from regiments, with increased pay. 
They and the companies called Dal Kilitsch (naked swords) composed 
the elite of the Odas. 



358 FURBANS "N TOMBS. 

esteemed holv in former time-, m much coveted a> a last 
resting-place by the Serdengetchdya and their families. 
K.»oka. — This was a lofty felt bonnet, ornamented 
with gold embroidery, and worn mi state <uvasions by 
the imperial sword-bearer, by commanding officers of 
Janissaries, by the master-genera] of the hoonda and 
grand falconer, and by all raperioT officers of the ho 
hold troops. 

Private Janissaries wore neither shawls nor winders 
round their caps ; but the turbans of their commanders 
were frequently entwined with these articles, « hen upon 
active Bervice, and were sometimes employed as rallying 
signals. For instance, during the conspiracy that led 
to the dethronement of Belim III., his cousin Mustafa 
gained over divers Janissary officers ; among these 
was Pehlivan Agha, who commanded the <>das form- 
ing part of the army encamped at Rutrhuk, under the 
orders of the Grand Vizir, Tcheleby Mustafa. Before 
the departure of Pehlivan for the Danube. Sultai 
Mustafa sent for him. and. exhibiting a rich yellow 
shawl, said, "When you receive this &ha* 1. no mattei 
where your valiant legions may be, let it be a signal thai 
I am victorious. Wind it forthwith round your IeooIbS 
and proclaim me lawful sovereign." 

Some weeks afterwards, in May. 1807, a Tartar arrivec 
at the Janissary head-cpiarters, and presented to Pchli 
van Agha a sealed packet, containing the yellow shawl 
Upon this the Agha instantly wound it round his cap 
assembled the commanders of Ortas, and announced t< 
them the accession of Mustafa, and the downfal o 
Selim. Then, directing them to muster their corps anc 
march to the Grand Vizir's quarters, without divulging 
the news to the men, he proceeded to the tent of Tche 



TURBANS ON TOMBS. 359 

leby Mustafa, and solicited permission to pay his respects. 
Having been admitted and taken his seat, the yellow 
shawl soon attracted the notice of the Sadrazan : — 
"What colours are those, Pehlivan Agha?" exclaimed 
Tcheleby Mustafa, after the first salutations had passed 
between them. " I was not aware that our lord, Sultan 
Selim, upon whom be increase and victory, had per- 
mitted his captains to adopt new colours or uniforms 
without his servant's, the grand vizir's, approbation." 

" If I act without your Highness's permission," re- 
plied Pehlivan, " it is by our master's orders. This 
shawl is my security or death." 

" These are bold words, but we will see whether 
Tcheleby Mustafa or Pehlivan Agha is Grand Vizir," 
rejoined the Sadrazan. Then muttering the Turkish 
proverb, " I am master, you are master: who shall clean 
the horse?" he made a sign to the Tchaoosh Baslry, to 
seize his visitor. Ere this could be effected, the Agha 
sprung to the tent entrance, and exclaimed, " By the 
Sultan's head ! the first man that seeks to lay hands 
on Pehlivan dies ! Hearken, O Vizir Azem," continued 
he, "you live in the shade. You are ignorant of 
events. Sultan Selim, son of Sultan Mustafa Khan, is 
deposed. Sultan Mustafa Khan, son of Sultan Abdoul 
Hamid Khan, is now our master. May he live ! May 
his reign be victorious ! I and my people are prepared 
to shed our blood for him. This yellow shawl is our 
token." 

Then pulling back the tent opening, he added, "Look, 
Vizir Azem ! Let your Highness see that my words are 
not mere chaff. There are the Odas standing ready to 
proclaim our Sovereign." Then uttering a few words 
to his principal subordinates, who stood outside, they 



3G0 TURBANS ON TOMBS. 

hastened to the troops and imparted the new -, whilst the 
astonished Vizir anil his suite remained motionless with 
surprise. Pehlivan, Beeing all prepared, stepped for- 
ward, and in a loud voice exclaimed — 

"Yoldash (comrades) ! whose 1 tread and salt do wc 
eat> " Rejoicing in the downfal of the patron of then 
enemies, the regular army, the whole hodv unanimously, 
replied, '"Sultan Mustafa Khan's, sou of Sultan Abdou] 
Ilamid Khan. May lie live a thousand yean !" Thui 
was the short-lived triumph of this Sultan proclaimed 
upon the banks of the Danube. 

It is now time, however, to bid adieu to these monu- 
mental records, which, like the conquests and glories 
of the Ottoman arms, can never be renewed. Time, un- 
opposed by the fostering care of succeeding generations 
ifl fast destroying all outward vestiges of those eventful 
periods, when the Turkish turban careered triumphant 

over south-eastern Europe : at one time menacing 
Christianity at the threshold of her supremacy ; at ano- 
ther, threatening the downfal of the German empire. 
A frailty of human nature, as observed by Gibbon, res- 
Cued Rome from the tirst evil — a band of heroic Poles 
averted the second*. 

But enemies more dangerous than human frailty or 
Polish valour to Mussehnan records, and to the tenure 
of the Ottoman dynasty over its European provinces, 
are advancing with hasty strides. Civilization and the 
irresistible workings of the true creed of salvation are 
fast undermining possessions inaccessible, perhaps, to 

* After the battle of Nicopolis, Bajazet I. threatened to march upon 
Rome, and to stable his charger in St. Peter's, bat was prevented by 
pout. Three hundred years later, the victorious Janissaries of Mahmoud 
IV. were driven from Vicuna by John Sobieski. (l(Jo'3.) 



CONCLUSION. 361 

the sword. That which may remain unaccomplished 
by these powerful mediums will be effected by Mosco- 
vite diplomacy, and by the force of those jarring political 
necessities of which Russia always avails herself with 
consummate ability. Peremptory and unflinching, she 
invariably induces friendly cabinets to co-operate for her 
advantage. Cov and reluctant, she cautiouslv abstains 
from supporting the demands of others. Thus, al- 
though she is dreaded by the Porte as an uncompromis- 
ing foe, yet she is caressed and treated as a useful friend. 
Thence her power during misunderstandings, and her 
influence at all other periods. 

It requires little astrological skill to draw the horo- 
scope of future Constantinopolitan generations, or to 
divine the fate of Roomelian Turkey, unless a change 
take place in European policy. Yes ! Unless a firm 
and unvielding barrier be raised between the Porte and 
those whose further progress towards the Bosphorus 
would be fatal to British and Austrian interests in the 
Levant, fifty years cannot elapse ere travellers will 
flock to Constantinople to search for relics of Moslem 
institutions with as much eagerness as thev now seek 
for vestiges of Christian or Pagan antiquities*. 

But we promised to avoid politics, and it is meet not 

* Astrologers are not limited to the East. Towards the close of 1843, 
an En"lish sage of this description addressed two letters to the Sultan, 
stating that he had drawn his Highness's horoscope, and ascertained that 
towards the close of the 1260th }\ar of the Hegira (1844), through the 
aid of sideral intervention, and " in spite of the malign influence of the 
great Polar bear," a learned man would find the kt-y of a cavern filled 
■with incalculable riches buried by Suleiman the Great. The London 
astrologer concluded by making this discovery contingent upon secreey 
and a pre.iminary recompense to himself. The letters caused mtK?h 
amusement at the Porte. 

VOL. IIT. R 



NCI.USIi'N. 

to break this engagement at the verge of our labours. 

Let us then hasten to rccross the Golden Horn. 

Our circuit has been long and diveraified — diversified 
aa the objects and customs that are have sought to 
lender familiar to those who may have honoured US 
■with perusal. Much, it is feared, has been passed 
over that might have been introduced with advantage, 
and much inserted, that some may think might have 
been beneficially omitted. But our object has been to 
avoid learned disquisitions, and to limit ourselves to 
points and productions, however frivolous, that best 
illustrate the domestic manners of a people Imperfectly 
known and constantly misrepresented. 

We do not pretend to exclusive knowledge, never- 
theless our information has been drawn from Bources 

not always accessible to Christian strangers; and we 
have, moreover, devoted nearly three years to study 
Turkish customs, and to examine the places and 
objects described in the foregoing pages. Those who 
kindly aided our researches and favoured our investi- 
gations arc not ignorant of the difficulties we encoun- 
tered, or of our anxiety to arrive at truth. 

We have portrayed social organization and manners, 
not as they are generally described in books, but with 
due allowance for the nature of institutions, which, 
having their rise in specific religious precepts, tend to 
foster prejudice, and to render the general diffusion of 
wholesome light nearly impracticable. 

Thus the noblest virtues are found to be allied to the 
most vicious passions, the narrowest prejudices linked 
with the most enlarged views, and the utmost tolerance 
and humanity suddenly replaced by reckless cruelty 
and uncompromising fanaticism. Princely generosity 



CONCLUSION. 3(53 

a»d patriarchal charity will be observed side by side 
with grasping cupidity and egotism ; while the purest 
domestic excellence is often shrouded by foul disregard 
to human and divine morality. Again, stoic valour and 
acute sense of personal dignity will be seen upon a 
level with grovelling servility and contempt both for 
private honour and public welfare. In short, there 
exist so many contradictions, the results of ill-directed 
education, hereditary customs, and personal instability, 
that it is difficult to decide whether good or evil most 
predominate in the Turkish character. 

But these observations are applicable to the higher, 
and not to the middling and inferior classes. Among 
the two latter, the ascendency of good over evil is un- 
questionable. In no city are social or moral ties more 
tenaciously observed than by them. In no city can 
more numerous examples be found of probity, mild 
single-heartedness, and domestic worth. In no city 
is the amount of crime against property or persons 
more limited : a result that must be attributed to in- 
herent honesty, and not to preventive measures. 

The favourable side has therefore been leant to, 
more than is customary with temporary sojourners a 
Constantinople. Should this course be deemed cen- 
surable, we frankly confess that it must be attributed 
partly to conviction, and a tendency to look upon 
human nature with unjaundiced eye, and partly to a 
belief that Almighty and bountiful Providence has 
implanted numerous virtues in the breasts of mankind, 
which though imperceptible to cursory observers, be- 
come apparent on more patient examination. 

Nor do we stand alone in our favourable bias. A 

British ambassador, manv vcars accredited to the 

r 2 



.w;i CONCLUSION. 

Porte, sums up his opinion of Turkish character in 
the following words : — " I cannot help repeating that, 
bad as they may be, they are the best people in the 
empire*." From this judgment there arc few dissenti- 
ents, among those whose experience enables them to 
form opinions upon the relative merits of the Sultan's 
subjects. 

The above-mentioned tendency to discover worth, 
where others sick for and find imperfect inn*., cannot be 
better illustrated than by the following Turkish fable, 
which shall be inserted as a deprecatory conclusion. 

'* In a city of Shem (Syria), there abode a sheikh. 
Having heard of a town at some distance, where tin- 
people neglected their religions duties, and were guilty 
of sundry mal-practices. this holy man summoned to 
his presence a confidential dervish, and thus add 
him — *' O Hadjy Mooteriz ! God has gifted thee with 
perspicuity and love of truth. Reports are current 
that the people of a certain district art bad men — 
heretics — on the brink of destruction. I would fain 
know how these things arc. (iird up thy loins, there- 
fore, and visit these parts. Go in the name of G'od, 
and may his shadow overspread thee!' Thereupon, 
the dervish kissed the hem of the sheikh's robe, and 
departed. 

""When he was gone, the sheikh summoned another 
confidential dervish, named Scyid Affif. He having 
entered, the venerable man addressed him in similar 
terms; so he also tightened his waist-girdle, and mount- 
ing a fleet camel, set out for the appointed place. In 
due course, both dervishes accomplished their chiefs 

* Sir James Porter. Observations on the Religion, Laws, Maimers, 
&.c, of the Turks. London, 1771. 



CONCLUSION. 365 

bidding* and successively presented themselves before 
him. When the salutations of peace and welcome had 
been exchanged, Hadjy Mooteriz, the first comer, spoke 
thus: 

" ( O Sheikh ! it is high time that animadversion and 
correction should visit these people, lest the hand of 
divine wrath overtake them, as it did the dwellers in 
the two doomed cities. They are worse than their bad 
reputation. Faith and truth are to them as treasures 
hidden in the earth's bowels. They neglect prayer, 
turn away the cheek from ablutions, and snap the finger 
of derision upon divine precepts. By my head and by 
yours, they are cheats, liars, and false swearers. There 
is no goodness in them. They deserve the fate of the 
children of Lot. I have spoken.' 

"The sheikh, having pondered awhile, answered 
thus, — c O Hadjy Mooteriz ! thou hast done well ! 
All thy words, proceed from conviction. Thou hast 
faithfully discharged thy duty. God will reward his 
servant. The sins of these people shall be looked to. 
Chastisement and reproof shall not be wanting. Go ! 
thou needest repose/ 

" When Hadjy Mooteriz had withdrawn, Seyid Affif 
was introduced, and, after the customary formalities, 
thus narrated what he had heard and seen. 

" f O Sheikh ! God is great and infinite, and has made 
men both good and vicious. In his immeasurable 
bounty, he has favoured these people, and so balanced 
accounts that the majority are not of those who go 
astray. It is true, there are some grievous offenders, 
but these are as black spots on the white lamb's fleece. 
I have eyes, and opened them to witness their ablutions. 
I have ears, and did not close them to the music of 



MU) conclusion. 

their five daily prayers. They give charity, pay titln l 3 
and conform to divine and imitative practices. These 
people might be much hotter, hut many of higher 
repute are teas deserving. Such did they appear to me. 
I have nothing to add.' 

"After musing a short time, the sheikh .stroked Ins 
beard and Bpojce thus: 'Q Seyid Atlif! thou had 
spoken exceeding well. All thy words llow from the 

pure fountain of conviction* Thou hast well performed 

thv dutv. God is great, and there is no other ! He 
will recompense his servitor. The virtues of these 
people shall not be forgotten or unrewarded. (■ 
thy fare is whitened." 

"Now there chanced to be a mOOSSafeer (guest) in 
the sheikh's company. He. hearing the holy man 
applaud both dervishes, and declare that each had 
rightly done and well spoken, lifted up his voice and 

said, f With permission. How is this, Efiendi? There 

are two sides to all things — a black and a white side— 
.shade and light cannot be upon the same face. But 
lo! one dervish inters, and swears by his head that 
the people of a certain district are all heretics, unclean, 
and sons of devils. Thereat you exclaimed, 'Thou hast 
spoken well,' and bade him depart with blessings. 
Presently a second dervish enters, and behold! he 
declares these same people to be good, pure, like angels. 
Whereat you observed, 'Thou hast spoken rightly' and 
dismiss him likewise with benedictions. Now, this 
contradiction passeth my understanding. I beseech 
you, therefore, to explain how he that speaketh well 
and he that speaketh ill of the same thing can be equally 
worthy of commendation.' 

"Thereupon the sheikh, smiling benignly, answered 



CONCLUSION. 3f>7 

thus: c O Moossafccr ! the words I used to these worthy 
men were just. Knowest thou not that God hath 
not made all men's eyes to see alike? He has granted 
to some a bright eye, which softcneth errors. To 
others he has granted a dark eye, which augmenteth 
defects. So it is with these two dervishes. Yet both 
are honest and conscientious men, and have doubtless 
narrated matters even as they appeared reflected in their 
own eyes/ " 

But we will now take our leave, likening ourselves 
in some measure to Seyid Affif, and earnestly praying 
that readers may eschew the example of Hadjv 
Mooteriz in their judgment of the foregoing volumes. 



THE END. 



I ON . 

IIarrhon a>d Co., l'lawim, 

I | MARTIN* L»NF. 






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