Through jungle and desert : travels in Eastern Africa

RowLanp WaRD & Co.
LIMITED
“THE JUNGLE”
366 PiccADILLY, LONDON

iiROUGH JUNGLE AND: -DESERT

)

ROUGH JUNGLE AND
DESERT.

Fay

“BY.

oe WILLIAM ASTOR CHANLER
OS or NE. (Harv), ERGS: :

HONORARY MEMEER Or THE, IMPERIAL AND. ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL
; fie aA Ty Society OF VIENNA

thcdineawinee xxxiv. 1X)

“MACMILLAN | AND CO. Lp.

(NEW YORK: MACMIDLAM: AML GP,
)
1806

Bd Wiggs: Feernens

ay sia

a PAO pce eh nc ee SL NALIESAND Ra Came eer erences
ena ee

enki nem

ii OwuGh JUNGLE AND
DES ERD

ied eS INGE AS TERN. APRICA

BY

WiLDEVAM ASTOR CHANLER

A.M. (Harv.), F.R.G.S.

HONORARY MEMBER OF THE IMPERIAL AND ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL
SOCIETY OF VIENNA

WITH ILLUSTRATIONS FROM PHOTOGRAPHS TAKEN BY THE AUTHOR

AND MAPS

“When I travelled I saw many things; and I understand

more than I can express”’
EcCLESIASTICUS Xxxiv. I

London
VACWIEEAN AND ‘CO: Lrp.

NEW YORK: MACMILLAN AND CO.
1896

All rights reserved

CopyRIGHT, 1896, |

By MACMILLAN AND CO.

Norwood ress
J. §. Cushing & Co. — Berwick & Smith
Norwood Mass. U.S.A.

TO

JUDGE (CHARLES: P.. DALY.

PRESIDENT OF THE AMERICAN GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY
IN RECOGNITION OF MUCH KINDLY ADVICE AND ENCOURAGEMENT
THIS NARRATIVE OF TWO YEARS’ WORK IN AFRICA

IS DEDICATED BY THE AUTHOR

le Reh eA Cale:

In giving this book to the press I gratefully acknowl-
edge the help I have received in preparing it from
numerous friends, and especially from the Hon. Theo-
dore Roosevelt, to whose encouragement and advice its
present appearance is largely due.

THE AUTHOR.

CONTENTS

PAGE
CHAPTER: I: ; : ; ; : , : : : I
CHAPTER II : ‘ 3 ‘ ‘ : : - 40
CHAPTER III ; : ; : i g : , = | 46
CHAPTER IV : : ‘ : : : ; : an EL,
CHAPTER |v. : ; ; 5 : : : : oe SA
CHAPTER VI : ; 3 : : : : é 54203
CHAPTER VII : ; ‘ ‘ : : . : 200
CHAPTER VII): : : : j : 5 ; eg27
CHAPTER IX : : : : : : : : - 378
CHAPTER X . : : ; : : , : : - 448
CHAPTER XI : : : ‘ : 3 ; : . 482

INDEX . 6 ‘ : ‘ 3 : : ‘ : 52

EIS OF Ter ustRATIONS

William Astor Chanler : : : : : Frontispiece
Lieutenant Ludwig von Hohnel . : : : : . Face
Borassus Palm

Outskirts of Lamu

Type of Porter

Whole Force of the Zanzibari

Our Camp at Mkonumbi

Somali Hut

A Village of Mkonumbi

Galla Girl .

Our Pokomo Boatmen

Vignette

Village of Kinekombe

Scene in Camp on the Coast

Pokomo Boat Builders at Work .

Our Canoes

Camels on the March .

Camp at Hameye

My Whole Force drawn up.

Hippopotamus Hunt on the Mackenzie River
Hippopotamus Hunt on the Mackenzie River

Acacia and Thorn Scrub

xi

PAGE

xil LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

Baobab Tree

Dhum Palm and Acacia

Chanler Falls

Canyon above Chanler Falls

Dead Rhinoceros

The Author, with Vanguard of Soudanese
Camp on the Plain near Lorian

Scene near Lorian

Wamsara Elders

Type of Landscape

A Charge of Wamsara

Mode of carrying the Sick .

Porters on the March .

Loading Camels — pile of ammunition in the foreground
Unloading Camels — showing mode of carrying Berthon boat
Scene on the Tana

Native Huts of the Wa-daitcho

Ant Hill

Embe Girl carrying Wood .

Our Camp at Daitcho

Chief Natives of the Embe

Embe Shepherds

Liria, most Influential Man among the Embe
An Embe Donkey

Tent Boys .

Oryx Beisa

Dead Rhinoceros

Unloading of Camels .

Karscho

Mahomet Aman

PAGE

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

Scene in Camp .

Guaso Nyiro River, near where we found Rendile
Type of Landscape

Native Bridge— a chasm in the Guaso Nyiro River
Men playing Cards in Camp

Scene on the Guaso Nyiro River

Some of my Men with Ivory

Donkeys crossing Dry River-bed

In Trouble with our Donkeys

At the Head-waters of the Mackenzie .

Native Village — wall and gateway

Camp Scene at Daitcho

Soudanese Guard at Gate

Daitcho Dancing

Daitcho Dancing

The Leader of the Dance

Daitcho Ladies in Full Ball Costume .

Beri-Beri, Medicine-man and Poisoner of the Daitcho .

Cervicapra Chanleri
Scene on the Tana
Scene on the Tana
Country near Guaso Nyiro River
Large Baobab Tree
Wakamba Warriors
Bridge across the ‘Tana
Vignette

Wakamba Medicine-men
Dick’s Grave at Mwyru
Mgundu

Ramazan and Mgundu

xlv LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

PAGE
Cocoanut-oil Mill : : : : F ; : F ; SOL
Variety of Porters’ Habitations . : : : : ; 2 Sie
Vignette. ; , : ; : ; F : ; . 516

Map of Tana District and Northeastern Kenya Region.

General View of East Africa, showing the Route of the Expedition.

Ds ;
G .
y
rt
i
xy ;
<4
‘
'
o
: / \
" x y
i.
ter
/
: :
(es
x :
\

LIEUTENANT LUDWIG VON HOHNEL

THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT

—-0 594, 0-0-——_.

CHAPTER 1

Tue journey the description of which will be found
in the following pages was one planned and undertaken
by me in codperation with Lieutenant von Hodhnel,
for the purpose of adding something to the world’s
knowledge of that portion of East Africa hitherto
unexplored, lying between the Tana and Juba rivers.

Lieutenant von Héhnel, my companion upon this
journey, is an officer in the Imperial and Royal Austro-
Hungarian Navy. In the year 1888 he accompanied
Count Teleki, an Hungarian nobleman, upon an expe-
dition into East Africa, which lasted nearly two years,
as a result of which much was added to the scientific
knowledge of this portion of that continent, especially
by the discovery of the great lakes Rudolph and
Stephanie. The wonderfully exact map made by Lieu-
tenant von Hohnel attracted the attention of all geog-
raphers to his work; and the book descriptive of
that journey added greatly to his fame, and conveyed
a vast amount of new and interesting information.

My journey was undertaken purely in the interest
of science, and, such being the case, I esteemed myself

B au

NS

THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

most fortunate in securing the codperation of Lieu-
tenant von Hodhnel. What he accomplished for geog-
raphy will be seen from an inspection of the maps
accompanying this volume.

But one other white man accompanied us; this was
my servant, George Galvin, an American boy nineteen

‘1 sy Vy

EN AlZ

WS VF
say
ik IN

NSS i "es AWW SOAP y
LSS SNE VAG /
ERK WS XN i
WS WQS

BORASSUS PALM

years of age. He had accompanied me upon my first
expedition to Africa, at which time he was but sixteen
years of age, and had not only proved himself capable,
in an astonishing degree, of withstanding the hardships
incident to African travel, but had also developed
marked capability in the work connected with the

I TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 3

caravan. Throughout the narrative, I shall speak of
him as George; and as the story progresses, the reader
will be able to judge of his behaviour.

The expedition of Count Teleki and Lieutenant von
Hohnel determined the northern limit of the Masai
race, and penetrated almost to the regions inhabited
by the Galla. Between Lakes Rudolph and Stephanie
and the Indian Ocean there lies a large area of country,
which until our journey had resisted attempts at explo-
ration. The natives inhabiting that portion of the

OUTSKIRTS OF LAMU

coast are Somali, and they proved in every way hostile
to Europeans. Baron Vanderdecken had met_ his
death at Bardera, a few miles from the coast, in the
year 1867. Since that time few efforts had been
made, and they were attended with anything but
success.

Both Lieutenant von Héhnel and I had had some
experience in African travel, and we decided that an
exploration of this part of the country was feasible,
provided entrance was made south of the region over
which the Somali held sway. The River Tana, which
flows from Mount Kenya to the Indian. Ocean, had
been proved by the journeys of Denhardt, Peters, and

4 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT * CHAP.

Dundas to be navigable for more than 200 miles from
the sea; and, in consequence, it seemed to us a suitable
point at which to commence our journey. It was our
intention to ascend the river, and, upon reaching the
limits of navigation, to strike to the north, and penetrate
as far as possible into the interior.

From information received, we had come to the con-
clusion that the Somali tribes did not extend their
wanderings many miles from the coast lying between
Kismayu and Lamoo, at the mouth of the Tana River,
and that the Juba River formed the southern boundary
of the wanderings of the Somali inhabiting the country
immediately south of Berbera; so that, by taking the
Tana route, we should effect an entrance into the
country without coming into contact with the Somali.
Of the tribes inhabiting the country between the
Juba and the Tana rivers we had no definite knowl-
edge. Lieutenant von Hohnel and Count Teleki, on
their former journey along the eastern shore of Lake
Rudolph, saw signs and gathered intelligence of a large
tribe called Rendile. The exact habitat of this tribe
was unknown, but they were supposed to range from
Lake Stephanie, in the north, to some point near Mount
Kenya, in the south. They were said to be possessed
of vast herds of camels, horses, donkeys, sheep, goats,
and cattle. This wealth had made them the object
of attacks from the Somali on the coast, and from the
Masai and other tribes lying to the south and west of
them. Owing to this fact, it was said, they were con-
tinually on the move — stopping but long enough in
one place to exhaust the pasturage, and then moving
on again in search of food and water for their flocks.

I TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 5

The presence of this tribe in the part of the country to
which I have referred we took for granted; and the fact
that they were possessed of beasts of burden, suitable
for the purposes of a caravan, entered largely into our
calculations.

In the make-up and personnel of our caravan we had
so arranged matters that, upon meeting this tribe, we
might renew our means of porterage (sure to be weak-
ened and reduced by the journey); we hoped that our
caravan, strengthened by this means, would be enabled
to proceed without difficulty for a great distance and
length of time in search of fresh fields for exploration.

Both Lieutenant von Hohnel and I had come to the
conclusion, that the use of men as a means of porterage
was not only troublesome and costly, but, from the very
exigencies of African travel, cruel in the extreme. Our
ideas then turned in the direction of obviating, as far as
possible, the necessity of using men; but not knowing
whether the climatic conditions of the country lying be-
tween the coast and the Rendile (from whom we hoped
to purchase cattle, etc.) were suited for beasts of burden,
we were forced to employ, at least for the outset of our
expedition, men for the transportation of our goods.
To these we added fifteen camels, fifty donkeys, and
ten oxen. The porters used in East Africa are the
people called “Zanzibari,” and made famous by Stanley
and other travellers. Few of these people are natives of
Zanzibar — being mostly slaves bought by the Arabs
from the numerous tribes in the interior, and leased out
by their masters as porters to any European making up
a caravan. As is to be expected, their intelligence is
not of a high order, and they are accustomed to but one

6 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

sort of work; namely, bearing burdens upon their heads
and shoulders. We hoped, however, should we be fort-
unate enough to reach the Rendile, and purchase
camels from them, to instruct our porters in the care of
these beasts, and, further, to use them, should necessity
arise, as an armed force.

For the management and care of the beasts of burden
I engaged seven Somali. These people possess camels,
flocks, and horses of their own at home, and conse-
quently are well fitted for such work. Owing to the
warlike nature of the tribes through which we expected
to pass, we engaged twelve Soudanese soldiers from Mas-
sowah. Thus my caravan was composed of three dis-
tinct peoples. These we hoped to weld into one efficient
whole, notwithstanding the fact that we had been
warned that their cohesion was not to be expected in an
African expedition, particularly when it is borne in mind
that their customs as well as characters differ in a great
degree. As the narrative of our journey progresses, it
will be found which view was the correct one.

The Tana River enters the Indian Ocean near the
town of Lamoo, and we, pitched upon this place as the
starting-point of our journey. The preparations for a
journey of exploration in the interior of Africa cannot
possess great attraction to the general reader, and, there-
fore, little stress will be laid upon the detail.

All the material which it was possible to procure in
Europe had been purchased and packed either in Lon-
don or in Vienna; and from these points we shipped
them directly to Lamoo. There yet remained, however,
the enlistment of men, the purchase of beasts of burden,
with their pack-saddles, etce.. and a thousand and one

I TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA a

little things which are procurable only on the coast of
Africa. Through the kindness of the Italian authorities
at Massowah, we were enabled to procure the Soudanese ;
and it is not the fault of our kind friends there that the
quality of these men was not better than it later proved.
The Somali were engaged at Aden; there, likewise, we
purchased the saddles for our camels and two horses.
This portion of the work was attended to by Lieutenant
von Hohnel —I going to Zanzibar to engage porters.

I could not have chosen a more inopportune time for
the enlistment of porters at Zanzibar. The British East
Africa Company, bent upon the retention of Uganda,
had practically exhausted the supply of porters, and a
missionary Caravan was on the point of starting to the
interior. Apparently, a porter was worth his weight in
gold, and almost as difficult to procure as is that precious
metal. However, I brought excellent letters to the au-
thorities at Zanzibar, and my friend, Sir Gerald Portal
(since deceased), was at that time the British Agent and
Consul-General at this place. This gentleman offered
me every assistance in his power, and instructed General
Sir Lloyd Matthews, the efficient Prime Minister to the
Sultan of Zanzibar, to throw the great weight of his
local influence into the scales in my behalf. Moreover,
the American Consul, Mr. Jones, procured me an audi-
ence with His Highness the Sultan, Seyd Al, who
kindly permitted me to enlist porters in my service.

Although permission had been granted me, yet, in
order not to excite the jealousy of others in search of por-
ters, the enlistment of the men was carried on in a more
or less secret manner. Runners were sent out to the
neighbouring plantations with the news that an expedi-

8 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

tion having the sanction of the Government was about
to be formed; and soon, by twos and threes, men came
to my agents, received three months’ wages in advance,
and signed on as porters. Each man brought with him,

Wl as sponsor, some responsible
person, who was held answer-
able for his appearance on the
day set for our departure from
Zanzibar.

SS SSS

=
——~

It may have interest
for some to state the
wages paid these por-
ters — each man re-

SSS

ceived twelve rupees
per month. At. this
time the rupee was low,

and the equivalent
of twelve rupees

was somewhat
less than $4.00, a

sum which 1s there
considered very
good pay. If the
porter is a free-

TYPE OF PORTER

man, he _ retains
the entire amount received; if a slave, he must give
one-half to his master.

In the course of one month I secured 136 men—-
though “man” is a term which could be properly ap-
plied to but few; for, owing to the scarcity of material,
in many instances I was compelled to accept mere
youths and men of inferior physique.

I TRAVELS [NV EASTERN AFRICA 9

As all readers of African travel are aware, the most
important of the porters of a caravan is the headman. I
had hoped to engage the headman of my former jour-
ney, who had also accompanied Royal Phelps Carroll
upon his shooting expedition to Masai Land. Unfortu-
nately, he, being a slave, was at that time away upon a
trading journey up-country in the service of his master.
I deemed myself fortunate, however, in being able to se-
cure the man who had performed the duties of second
headman on my former journey—by name, Hamidi.
He was a young and intelligent native of the Comoro
Islands; he had served in many up-country expeditions,
and had behaved, as far as my experience and the testi-
mony of others went, in an efficient and trustworthy
manner upon all occasions. To him I left the choice of
three under-headmen.

As his first lieutenant he chose one Mohamadi, who
had been second headman on the unfortunate expedition
which resulted in the death of Captain Stairs. The
other two headmen were unknown to me, but I was
assured by Hamidi that they were capable and trust-
worthy.

I succeeded in getting but one porter who had accom-
panied me on my former journey, but was more fortu-
nate in the matter of tent-boys, employed as body
servants. Two of these are worthy of some mention —
I refer to those attached to my own person, Sururu and
Baraka. Sururu had served with Mr. Stanley three
years on the Congo, and had been engaged in any num-
ber of missionary caravans. He had on one occasion
seen his master shot before his eyes during an Arab up-
rising, had travelled more miles on foot than I care to

10 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

state, and carried with him testimonials of good conduct
from every one he had served. In temperament he
showed but few negro traits —he appeared to be actu-
ally fond of work, and, until his allotted task was com-
pleted, never allowed himself to rest. He was silent
and attentive; somewhat stern with his fellow-servants
during work time, but when work was over, and he was
stretched at ease among his companions, he was one of
the most garrulous talkers it has been my lot to hear.
He had a round bullet-head, supported on the slightest
possible frame; round, but intelligent, eyes; scarcely any
nose; and lips full, to be sure, but firmly pressed _to-
gether.

The other boy, Baraka, was an absolute contrast to
his companion, being strong and sturdily built. His ex-
perience in caravan work was nearly as great as that of
Sururu, but of a very different sort, for Baraka had been
employed in every capacity, from that of donkey-boy to
porter. His disposition was cheerful and even, and re-
sembled in greater degree that of an American negro
than any other native African I have met. For Lieu-
tenant von Hohnel I was able to procure one of the ser-
vants whom he had employed on his former journey.

Lieutenant von Hohnel and I sailed from Europe on
the 12th of June, 1892. On August 14 we reached
Lamoo with all of the men and some of the beasts of
burden. There we met George, who had arrived some
days before with the goods from Europe.

Town-life in Africa is not well suited to the native
members of a caravan. Temptations, small to the
civilized European, surround the native at every turn;
so that it was with all speed that we shipped our men

I TRAVELS [IN EASTERN AFRICA II

and goods upon small native dhows, and transported
them to a village called Mkonumbi, twenty-three miles
from Lamoo and its dangerous allurements. Here we
pitched our first camp.

We had already ascertained that it was possible to
buy camels at Kismayu, a little over 100 miles north
of Lamoo. Shortly after our arrival at Mkonumbi,
Lieutenant von Hohnel, attended by four of our Somali,
set out by steamer for Kismayu in order to procure the
camels. During his absence I devoted my time to put-
ting the camp in order, and arranging everything for -
our departure into the interior.

Mkonumbi, till within a few years of our arrival, had
been a portion of the Sultanate of Witu. The Sultan-
ate of Witu consisted of the territory lying between the
Tana River and the town of Lamoo. Its autonomy
was not recognized by the Sultan of Zanzibar, who had
at many different times sent expeditions thither for its
subjugation; none of which, however, proved successful.
In 1886 the Germans established a protectorate over
this sultanate; and, following upon the protectorate, a
number of Germans settled in the neighbourhood of
Witu as colonists. In 1889, eleven of these settlers
were murdered at the instigation of the Sultan, Fumo
Omari by name.

By treaty, dated 1890, Witu was transferred by the
Germans to the British, who at once sent an expedition
for the punishment of the natives who had murdered the
eleven Europeans. This expedition was crowned with
the usual success of such undertakings. The town of
Witu was totally destroyed, and the Sultan, Fumo
Omari, together with most of his followers, fled to the

12 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP. I

forests of Pumwani, in the immediate neighbourhood,
where he made a stand.

At the time of my arrival he was said to have 1000
guns at his command. His followers, thus armed, he
employed for the most part in ravaging the neighbour-
ing Arab plantations and native villages. What plunder,
such as slaves, etc., he managed to acquire by these
raids, he exchanged with the Somali for ivory, guns,
caps, powder, and lead.

The Somali with whom he traded came from points
as far north as Kismayu. One of their number, Bar-
falatta by name, finding the business engaged in by the
Sultan of Witu profitable, attracted to himself a number
of runaway slaves and renegade Arabs. With these he
established himself at a point not far from Pumwani,
called Jongeni. Both of these places, Pumwani and
Jongeni, were in the neighbourhood of Mkonumbi,
where I pitched my first camp. The British East
Africa Company, as a check upon these raids, had
established upon the site of the old town of Witu a
garrison consisting of 150 Indian soldiers, under the
command of two officers. This force had had several
engagements with the raiders established at Pumwani
and Jongen1; but had been unable, owing to their small
number and the difficult nature of the country, to drive
the raiders from the territory.

My arrival at Mkonumbi, with a respectable force at
my command (160 men), was construed by the rival
chiefs (Fumo Omari and Barfalatta) as a demonstra-
tion of increased hostility on the part of the Europeans;
and, perhaps in consequence, the raids during my stay
at Mkonumbi became fewer and upon a smaller scale.

INVEIZNVZ AHL AO AONOY AIOHM

ae See
- eee =

CHAP. I TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA i

The town of Lamoo is situated about twenty-three
miles from Mkonumbi, on an island bearing the same
name. It is inhabited by a people very different from
the Arabs of Zanzibar. While it is true there are some
pure-blooded Arabs among them, yet most of the people
are the product of union between Arabs and natives of
the islands of Lamoo, Manda, Patta, and Siu. It is un-
certain whence the natives of these islands originally
came. They are lighter in colour than the inhabitants
of the coast, more intelligent, and, in a degree, their life
is more civilized. In the native manufactures they ex-
cel; and the caps and sandals of better manufacture
worn in Zanzibar all come from these islands. They
are a light-hearted and treacherous race. They carry
to a much higher point than the natives of any other
portion of the coast of East Africa ideas of organized
amusement. As far as it went, they had a keen idea of
sport. On certain days of the year they had boat races,
foot races, and matches of all sorts, in which both sexes
took part. It is needless to add that their morals were
of the lowest possible order.

The governor of the town of Lamoo was a cousin
of the Sultan of Zanzibar, by name Abdullah Ben
Hamed. The British East Africa Company had
leased the trading rights of the coast from the Sultan of
Zanzibar. At the town of Lamoo this company was
represented by two officials, who, through the influence
of the Arab governor, and by his assistance, managed to
preserve some sort of discipline and order there. Be-
side these two representatives of the British East
Africa Company, two other Europeans resided there,
Germans, named Teide and Denhardt, engaged in trade

16 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

with the natives, and in the management of several
plantations.

Gustave Denhardt, in company with his brother and
the late Dr. Fischer, had been the first to ascend the
Tana River. At this time he had been a resident of
that portion of the country about twelve years; during
which period he had endeared himself to the natives,
and had acquired a considerable influence over them.
Both Messrs. Denhardt and Teide proved of the great-
est assistance to our expedition, and we are much
indebted to them for their kind offices.

Having decided to make use of the Tana River as a
means of transporting a portion of our goods a distance
of 200 miles into the interior, it became necessary for
me to engage canoes and boatmen for the purpose.
Shortly after my arrival at Mkonumbi, Mr. Denhardt
and I set out for Kau, on the banks of the Tana River,
to arrange our little river column. We engaged eight
large dug-outs; and, through Mr. Denhardt’s relations
with the natives inhabiting this portion of the banks
of the Tana, I was enabled to engage twenty boatmen.

These people are called Pokomo. They are here
small cultivators, and derive most of the means for
their subsistence from their canoes, which are much in
demand to convey the produce (such as rice, corn, etc.)
grown near the banks of the Tana at inland points to
the coast, whence it is shipped to Lamoo. Living, as
they do, in small, ill-protected villages, they are an
easy mark for the raiders from Pumwani and Jongeni;
who, when the crops are ripe, swarm down upon the
Pokomo, and force them to cut their crops and carry
them away to these two towns. In physique, as a

I TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 17

result of their canoe labour, these people are wonder-
fully developed.

I placed in charge of the Pokomo, as captain of the
fleet, a native of Kau, Zanzibari in race, named Sadi.
He was a suave, good-mannered, and at the same time
trustworthy negro, who had accompanied Messrs. Den-
hardt and Fischer upon their first trip up the Tana,
and had since then been engaged in many trading
expeditions. He spoke the language of the Pokomo,
and was loved and respected by them. He was par-
ticularly proud of his birth, and with great satisfaction
did he mention the fact that his sister had at one time
been a concubine of the former Sultan of Zanzibar.
Having arranged for the presence of the canoes and
their crews at Kau upon a date in the near future, we
returned to Mkonumbi.

Surrounding Mkonumbi is an undulating plain,
covered, for the most part, with high grass, the conti-
nuity of which is at a few points broken by small
groups of dhum palms. Here and there, bordering
upon swamps and small streams, were found forests
composed of tall sycamores and other trees, whose
branches, burdened with trailing vines and creepers,
were filled with hordes of small monkeys and birds of
gayly coloured plumage. The appearance of the country
as a whole would not be called tropical, at least at the
time of the year when I visited it; namely, the middle
of the dry ‘season. |

Owing to the raids of the Pumwani and Jongeni
people, cultivation of the soil was carried on but in a
meagre manner. In former days, when the Sultan of
Witu held sway, the whole country was covered with

Cc

18 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP. I

plantations devoted to the cultivation of Indian corn,
millet, and tobacco; and before the herds of the people
were destroyed by the cattle plague, which occurred in
1889, many thousands of cattle, sheep, and goats were
raised. At that time this country was one of the richest
on the east coast of Africa. In the midst of this vast
plain, now covered with tall grass, may yet be found
stalks of wild millet and stunted Indian corn, which
lend their testimony to the fact that what is now but
a prairie had once been the scene of considerable agri-
cultural industry. Along the banks of the Tana, and
for some distance to the eastward, dense forests are
to be found, where the rubber plant is plentiful.

Our camp at Mkonumbi was 200 to 300 yards from
the shore, along which were scattered fifty or sixty
palm-thatched huts. These comprised the village of
Mkonumbi. In the centre of our camp rose two large
mango trees, whose thick branches afforded a grateful
shade from the tropical sun. Under these trees we
pitched our three tents. A space of three acres in
extent was cleared of grass and brush, and fenced in
by a strong thorn hedge. Around the inner side of
this enclosure we placed the huts, thatched with straw
or palm leaves, for the use of the porters. Two gates,
one on the side toward the river, and the other on
the opposite side of the camp, were guarded by my
Soudanese. In front of our tents, in a space left open
for that purpose, were placed the tents in which were
stored the ammunition, trading-goods, and provisions.
In one corner of our camp was placed a square, box-
like edifice, constructed from camel saddles. This was
the habitation of the Somali.

IGWANOMJN LY dWVD Ano

aff pie

| | ne ee ALY
ying Na Zul Mi Ml Sizer
poh mg fe ah ng
is MMU LIS Tih

rae

6, AES Wihyilxecrrr '
age his

=: “. 5 re a

ee 3 .

CHAP. I TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 21

Upon arriving at Mkonumbi, I had the roll called
and arranged the men in alphabetical order, giving to
each a number. This number I had stamped upon the
outfit given to each man. The outfit consisted of a
Werndl carbine, a belt, cartridge-box, bayonet, and
water-bottle. The Soudanese I armed with Mannlicher
repeating rifles of the latest pattern. Moreover, they
were clad in a species of uniform, which, though it may
sound ridiculous in civilization, was the pride of the
Soudanese, and the envy and admiration of all behold-
ers. This uniform consisted first of baggy trousers of
Turkish pattern made of white cotton drill; putties,
such as are worn by the Indian army, encasing their
calves; a long, blue, butcher’s jumper, reaching nearly to
the knees, and a bright red fez placed on their heads.

They were particularly pleased with the fez, which
was identical with the headgear of the Egyptian army.
Wearing it once more made them forget that they had
ever revolted against His Highness, the Khedive, and
consider that in some way I was connected with his
government. Most of my twelve Soudanese, as I after-
wards discovered, were ex-Mahdists, some of whom had
taken part in the battle against General Hicks, while
others boasted of having slain British soldiers at Abu-
klea, and in the fights about Suakim.

The Soudanese were tall, martial-looking men, wild-
eyed and savage, to be sure, but in appearance, at least,
accustomed to the discipline of a soldier. In a short
time, however, I learned that their martial bearing was
more the result of a defiant spirit than of any concep-
tion of soldierly obedience. The chief of the Soudanese
gloried in the title, Balook Bashi. He had seen service

N
wN

THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

with the Italians, and, as I afterwards learned, had been
dismissed for continued drunkenness and chronic ineff-
ciency. His name was Mahomet el Hussein. He had
been placed in command of the men at the time of
their engagement in compliance with their expressed
wish; and they had sworn to obey him and, through
him, the Europeans connected with the expedition.

It was soon made manifest why he had been the
choice of the men as their officer. He disclosed won-
derful capabilities for incessant importuning, never, as
he persistently declared, in his own behalf, but in the
interest of his devoted followers. Day after day, when
I left my tent in the morning, I would find him seated
near its valance with an expression of modest depreca-
tion upon his face. Upon seeing me, he would rise,
salute in the most approved military fashion, and then,
in a low, whining voice, he would proceed to unburden
himself of a long list of complaints. His part of the
conversation was carried on in the only language with
which he was familiar— Arabic. At that time I was
totally unacquainted with this tongue; so it became
necessary at these recitals to call in the assistance of an
interpreter. The interpreter to whom we had recourse
was another of the Soudanese, named Ramazan, who,
having seen service in German East Africa, spoke Swa-
hili fluently —a language with which I was well con-
versant.

The difference between the Balook Bashi and his
interpreter was very marked. Ramazan stood six feet
two, without his sandals, was as black as coal, possessed
fierce eyes and a smooth, round face. The Balook Bashi
was the shortest of my Soudanese. His complexion was

I TRAVELS [IN EASTERN AFRICA 23

of a chocolate colour; he carried his head forward, as
though in the act of avoiding a blow; his eyes were
furtive in expression, and the slightest movement of his
hands seemed to lead to a deprecating shrug of his
shoulders. He alone, of all my Soudanese, lacked the
martial bearing of a soldier.

During these interviews, Ramazan translated fluently
and, as far as possible, with dignity the ridiculous com-
plaints of his superior. After a short experience I
came to the conclusion that, although it would be impol-
itic to check these complaints, it was a prodigal waste
of time to listen to them. So, at the end of a long
harangue, I would dismiss Mahomet el Hussein with as
pleasant a smile as I could conjure up, and an assur-
ance that I would look into the matter. This method
of dealing with the complaints achieved the result antici-
pated and intended. The men, discovering that their
choice of Balook Bashi was an unsatisfactory one, treated
this officer with all the contempt he deserved, and paved
a way toward a change of my relations with them. Find-
ing the complaints made through their chief officer were
unheeded, the Soudanese began to come individually to
make their statements, and by this means I was able
to gather a more or less clear knowledge of the indi-
vidual character of each.

One among the Soudanese, Juma Moussa by name,
I soon discovered was at the bottom of every complaint
made, no matter by which of the men it was presented.
This man was a native of Wadai,a kingdom situated
in the very centre of Africa, and lying between the
province of Bahr el Ghazal and the kingdom of Bornu.
In early youth he had wandered with a caravan to

24 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

Suakim, where he had been promptly sold as a slave,
and sent to Jiddah. There he spent many years as a
soldier in the body-guard of one of the chief Arabs,
acquiring, as may be supposed, all the habits and man-
ners of a soldier of fortune.

He eventually made his escape from Jiddah, going to
and settling in Massowah, over which place the Italians
exercised a protectorate. He there learned the trade
of a stone-mason, at which, it was reported, he was an
adept; but his lawlessness and drunkenness were such
that he spent much of his time in prison, and was finally
dismissed from the town by the authorities. He, how-
ever, made himself useful to them by stealing guns from
the Mahdists, who at that time were stationed in the
immediate neighbourhood of Massowah. As can well
be imagined, this was an occupation which required the
utmost daring and address; for, had he been captured,
his life would have been forfeited. When engaged by
Lieutenant von Hohnel, he had just completed a term
in prison.

He had enlisted with us only for the purpose of get-
ting the advance money and promptly deserting. This
resolution on his part, I am sorry to say, he was pre-
vented from carrying into execution. He now longed
to return to Massowah, and spared no pains to cause all
the trouble and discontent possible among the Soudan-
ese, with such end in view. In appearance, he was
about forty years of age, tail and powerfully built, with
small, ferocious eyes, a straight nose, a fierce moustache
which would have brought pride and credit to any
dragoon, and a sharply pointed beard. His voice was
harsh, and his manner of speech that of a braggart.

I TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 25

Being voluble in conversation and cheery in manner
towards his companions, he soon established an ascen-
dency over them.

Among the other Soudanese but two seem worthy of
mention. Herella, a native of Darfertit, a country to
the southward of Wadai, was about twenty-four years of
age. He had served as a Mahdist, and was present at
the defeat and death of Wad el Nejumi, who was one of
Mahdi’s most trusted Ameers. Unlike the rest of the
Soudanese, he made no pretence of being a Mohamme-
dan, but frankly admitted that the people of his country
ate pig (which means death to the followers of Islam);
and added, with cheerful insistence, that a hungry stom-
ach knew no law. He was one of the most perfect sav-
ages I had then met. His bearing was at all times that
of a wild animal, and his hatred of discipline was made
manifest at every turn.

Hussein Mahomet was the other; and he, perhaps,
was the most serviceable type of any of my Soudanese.
Born a Hadendowa (a tribe found near Suakim), he had
from the first followed the fortunes of Osman Digna, his
chief, in the wars of the Mahdi. Until the continued
defeats which Osman Digna suffered at the hands of the
English, and the death of the Mahdi, he had been thor-
oughly convinced of the divine mission of the Mahdi,
and the wickedness of all Europeans. When, however,
his tribe was almost destroyed by incessant war, and his
chief a fugitive, he decided to give up his allegiance, and
trust himself to whatever treatment the Italians would
accord. I found him stupid in the extreme; a fanatical
Mohammedan, never so happy as when at prayer, but
obedient and trustworthy to the last degree.

26 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

The men who proved the most useful in my caravan
were the seven Somali. Two of these had served with
Count Teleki and Lieutenant von Hohnel in the years
1888 and 1889; their names were Mohamet Aman and
Karscho, The former of these I placed in command of
his compatriots, and the latter I made my gun-bearer.
Mohamet Aman was a very black fellow, some thirty
years of age, with the well-developed head of his race,
and very large, intelligent eyes. As a worker he was
practically untiring. He was able to read the numerals

SOMALI HuT

on my boxes and loads, and capable of carrying in his
head many details which a European would find it nec-
essary to transmit to paper. His special province was
the charge of all the goods. Karscho was tall, light
in colour, possessed of really beautiful features of abso-
lutely Caucasian type, and active and lithe as a panther.
He was devotion itself, but lacked the qualities of pa-
tience and self-control, which are so necessary for a
leader. Another of the Somali was Achmet Dualla.
He had been employed as a soldier with Dr. Peters’
expedition. He was very stupid, but willing and un-
tiring in his work. The other four Somali lacked

I TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 27

distinctive characteristics, and need have no special
mention.

On August 24, 1892, Lieutenant von Hohnel arrived
by steamer from Kismayu, bringing with him 15 camels
and 10 fine oxen capable of bearing burdens. He had
found Kismayu and the natives thereof in an excited
state, and the reception accorded him was anything but
friendly. The cause of this was soon made manifest.
A Somali named Jama Yusuf, who had formerly served
Count Teleki and Lieutenant von Hodhnel, but who was
at this time employed as court interpreter at Mombasa,
had sent a letter to the chiefs at Kismayu, warning them
against us, and advising them to hinder our entrance
into the country as far as lay in their power. Lieuten-
ant von Hohnel, however, allayed their fears, and besides
the purchase of the animals above mentioned, acquired
some interesting information in regard to the country
lying to the westward of Kismayu.

Before the return of Lieutenant von Hohnel, life in
camp at Mkonumbi had begun to assume a busy as-
pect. I divided my porters into three companies, and,
in order to render them accustomed to the word of com-
mand, put them through simple drills daily. After a
few days of this work I set about giving them instruc-
tion in the use of their rifles, as but few had the slightest
conception of the nature and purposes of the weapons.
It took days before I could teach most of them the use
of the sights. At the beginning many were actually
unable to close but one eye; for, after closing one, the
eyelid of the other invariably drooped until that eye too
was shut; and to the very end of the expedition some
two or three were forced to do their shooting with both

28 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

eyes open. Day after day I took them to a level spot
near camp, and instructed them to load and raise their
rifles to their shoulders, and aim at the word of com-
mand.

After two weeks of this sort of work I put up targets,
and gave each of the men three shots. By this I learned
that but a small number of them had derived any profit
from the hours of toil which I had spent daily in their
instruction. I discovered, nevertheless, that some thirty
of them could hit a large packing-case at a distance of
eighty yards, if given sufficient time to take aim. After
the expenditure of 2000 rounds of ammunition I was
compelled to satisfy myself with this result.

The Soudanese, needless to say, were soon all excel-
lent shots, and took a certain pride in their weapons.
The Somali likewise readily acquired a good knowledge
of shooting.

I will outline a day of our life while in camp at Mko-
numbi. At 5.30 A.M. the tomtom beat, and the porters
fell in, drawn up in two companies. The roll was called
by George, and he examined the rifles, pouches, water-
bottles, and bayonets. Each man had a number, and all
his outfit bore the same; so inspection was quickly
made. Then I summoned the Soudanese, inspected
their rifles, and told them the hour they were to drill.
At 6 a.m. we had breakfast, consisting of eggs, bacon,
coffee or tea,and jam. At 7 the Soudanese were drilled
for two hours, and then one of the companies of porters
was taken out and exercised until noon, when we had
luncheon. This consisted of chicken and curried rice,
with a bottle of mild beer, followed by a small cup of
strong coffee and a cigarette. After luncheon we took

I TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 29

a short siesta, and then again to the drill-ground, where
I gave the men a little target practice. In this work I
was assisted by Lieutenant von Hohnel, and sometimes
by George, when he was not engaged in arranging the
boxes and loads.

At 2 p.m. the tomtom was sounded, and the men again
fell in for their rations. They were then mustered in
companies by George, and each man was given a quart
measure of millet and a bit of fish, or a measure of rice;
and once a week I gave them tobacco. The Somali
and Soudanese received a little better food than the
porters. At pocho (ration) time the punishment due
the men was meted out. For the first few days many
cases of insubordination occurred, but promptness and
severity soon taught the men that it was better to avoid
giving offence.

At 5 p.m. the cry of “ Watu wa gonjwa” (sick men)
was heard throughout the camp. At this cry all the
lame, the halt, and the blind assembled round the tent of
Lieutenant von Hohnel, and received treatment for their
several ailments. Many had ulcers, and a number of
them had pulmonary complaints. We had a wonderful
medicine chest, and. Lieutenant von Hohnel proved a
really good physician.

One of the greatest dangers incident to African travel
is an outbreak of small-pox in one’s caravan. To ob-
viate this dreaded disease, we had taken with us a large
quantity of vaccine. With this we vaccinated one and
all of our men; but without producing the slightest
result. During our stay at Mkonumbi one of our por-
ters died of some loathsome skin disease. His friends
refused to have anything to do with him, saying that he

30 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP. I

had small-pox. Although we Europeans feared such
was the case, we were forced, in order to restore con-
fidence to our people, to treat this man ourselves ; and,
happily, with no ill result.

If there is one thing a native African likes more than
any other, that thing is sympathy, be its form of expres-
sion what it may; and in order to excite it, he will
adopt any means, and go to any length. When our
men first caught sight of the medicine chest, and the
different-coloured medicines, the list of sick and ailing
was enormous. A few doses of the most nauseous
drugs, however, soon reduced the list of applicants to
reasonable proportions, which saved our stock of medi-
cine from premature exhaustion.

As the day set for our departure from Mkonumbi
drew near, I sent sixty loads of millet and forty-one
loads of my trading-goods to Kau, the point at which it
had been arranged the canoes should be in readiness. I
placed in charge of these Mohamet Aman and four
Zanzibari. These men I instructed to convey the ©
canoes to Kinakombe, distant up the Tana some eighty
miles. At specified points along the route they were to
deposit with the natives stores of food for my caravan ;
and upon reaching Kinakombe they were to await my
arrival.

Reports had reached me that the inhabitants of the
Tana district were starving, and would therefore be
unable to sell food; for, owing to the repeated raids
of the Pumwani and Jongeni people, they had not
been permitted to devote the usual time to the culti-
vation of crops. To obviate this we sent these canoe-
loads of food.

TAWONOMIW AO AOVITIA V

CHAP. I TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 33

All the goods purchased in London or Vienna had
been packed in serviceable and easily opened wooden
boxes. The material purchased in Zanzibar was sewn in
strong canvas, the average weight of a load being sixty-
five pounds. On the march, a porter beside this load
carried his rifle, whatever clothing he had for the
journey, and rations for from three to six days, as
occasion demanded. This brought the total weight of
the burden borne by each man to about eighty pounds.
To the European it may seem beyond the power of
the ordinary man to bear this any length of time;
but these porters, having been from earliest youth
accustomed to bear burdens upon their heads and
shoulders, were capable of bearing in this manner a
much greater weight and for a much longer time than
would at first be supposed.

The day preceding my departure, the Arab goy-
ernor visited my camp. I took advantage of his pres-
ence to ask him to give an address to my men, warning
them against desertion, and threatening them with direst
punishment, should they neglect his warning, or refuse
to accept his advice. He made a speech which the
porters received with impertinent grins, much to the
chagrin of the Arab governor, and upon its conclusion
they gave three loud and boisterous hurrahs. Abdul-
lah Hamed, the governor, was much irritated, and the
return of his accustomed good humour was delayed
until after he had quaffed several glasses of sherbet
and uncounted but numerous cups of coffee.

At Lamoo I purchased a number of goats and
sheep. These, added to my donkeys, horses, and
camels, gave the camp a quite pastoral appearance.

D

34 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

We had brought with us from Europe two long-haired
retrievers, and at Aden Lieutenant von Hohnel had
bought a little, bright-eyed fox-terrier.

For the two weeks immediately preceding we had
been drilling our men in loading and unloading the
camels and donkeys. The camel saddles consisted of
two heavy mats; the one placed next the animal’s
back being made of long, soft grass, and the other,
placed over this and next the load, of coarser text-
ure. Over these mats four poles were placed, tied
together at the upper end, each of which was six feet
in length. The fastening at the upper ends of the
poles was about one foot from their tips. The poles
were then paired, one pair being taken forward, and
securely tied to the rear of the fore-legs, and the other
pair being carried back, and tied just in front of the
hind legs, thus forming a skeleton pyramid. Upon
these sticks the loads were bound. A camel can
easily carry from 300 to 400 pounds; so we fastened
from four to five loads upon each animal.

The donkey saddles consisted of two bags made of
untanned ox-hide joined together, and falling like pan-
niers on each side of the beast’s back. In order to
prevent friction and the consequent soreness of the
animal, a pad of soft grass was placed between the
donkey and the saddle. A breast strap and a breech-
ing retained the saddle in proper position; and equal
weights being placed in each pocket of the saddle,
and the gait of the donkey being even, equilibrium
was maintained, and their positions rarely had to be
rearranged while on the march.

I placed in charge of the donkeys three men well

I TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 35

accustomed to the care of such animals. These men
had been, from earliest youth, traders of ivory and
slaves in- Masai Land, and were one and all thor-
oughly conversant with the Masai language. We
expected to fall in with tribes familiar with this tongue
during our journey, and their acquaintance with it was
considered an advantage by us when we engaged them.

At 5 o'clock, on the morning of September 18,
the resounding tomtom broke the stillness of our
camp. Soon the air was filled with cries; some of
the porters shouting joyfully to one another, “Safari!
Safari!” (Journey! Journey!); others, “Haya! Haya!
Tuta fuata bwana baranai.” (Hasten! Hasten! We
will follow master to the desert.) Even the laziest of
the porters seemed glad we were to make a start, for
to them a life on the coast without the pleasures of
towns, coupled with the hard work incident to the
preparation of a caravan for the march, had been te-
dious in the extreme. Others feigned joy; for they
but looked forward to the departure from Mkonumbi,
and the march through the tall grass and_ thick
coverts, as a means of happy deliverance from an
expedition of whose outcome they were in total igno-
rance. All the loads and pack-saddles had been
laid out in orderly arrangement the night before; so
that in little more than an hour all was ready for
marching.

The governor of Lamoo came to bid me God-speed,
but in the hurry and bustle I fear he failed to have the
courtesies offered him which his official dignity seemed
to demand. He eyed the loads, however, with a longing
expression. To him it seemed very ludicrous that any

36 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

to him to be vast wealth. He had, before this time,
questioned me as to the contents of my boxes; and,
despite the fact that I assured him they contained either
food or supplies, he exchanged sly glances with his staff,
and doubtless was fully convinced that they contained
gold and precious stones. Having bade him farewell, I
ordered the tomtom to sound again; and with one long
resounding cheer my men seized their loads, and the
expedition was under way.

The order of marching was as follows: I in the lead
with six Soudanese; then the second headman, Mo-
hamadi, and the long single line of porters — some sing-
ing cheerily, others stolidly silent, while yet others, even
at the start, groaning and shrinking beneath their bur-
dens. Lieutenant von Hohnel and George brought
up the rear with six Soudanese, while immediately in
front of them were placed the camels, donkeys, sheep,
and goats. All the animals gave much trouble the first
day, and necessitated many delays. Lieutenant von
Hohnel had a bad foot and slight dysentery, and so
he rode one*of. the horses.

The camels were wonderful animals, fourteen of them
carrying fifty loads and doing it well; and thirty of the
donkeys were carefully loaded, each with two full loads.

We reached our camping-place at 1 p.M., and gradu-
ally, by threes and fours, the men straggled in; for it is
not until several weeks have elapsed, and the men have
become hardened to their labour, that anything resem-
bling order can be maintained in a caravan composed of
porters. Just before reaching camp we forded a small
stream, which the camels had much difficulty in doing.

I TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 37

It is three days’ march from Mkonumbi to the Tana
River, and the country passed through is similar in

topography to that surrounding Mkonumbi.

At a point one day’s journey from the river we

reached a small Galla village.

insignificant and impov-
erished race, far differ-
ent from their brethren
who inhabit the country
lying to the west of Ab-
yssinia. It is estimated
that throughout the en-
tire length of the Tana
River there are not more
than 1000 Galla. These
people have had a sad
history, and their story
is as follows:

Many years ago, two
brothers reigned over a
large Galla tribe, located
at a point several hun-
dred miles to the north
of the Tana — presuma-
bly the Aroussa. These
brothers quarrelled, and

The Galla here are an

Gay
Mi

Ns

GALLA GIRL C

concluded they could not inhabit the same country.

The younger set out with half the tribe, and, after

wandering many years, arrived at the upper regions of

the Tana River. At that time they possessed cattle,

camels, sheep, and goats.

They had with them, so the

legend runs, a sacred book, which they called “ kitab,”

38 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

an Arabic word for book. What this book was, it is,
of course, impossible to say; but it is not altogether
improbable that it was a Bible; for, since we know the
Abyssinians had accepted Christianity many years ago,
it is not unlikely that they had communicated some
knowledge of it to the Galla, who inhabited the country
adjacent to Abyssinia.

Whatever this book was, they guarded it with most
jealous care; but one day, while repelling an attack of
some hostile and marauding natives, the book disap-
peared. It was thought by the Galla that it had been
eaten by one of their cattle. From the disappearance of
the book evil fortune has followed them till now, and to
this day they continue search for it, as their talisman.
Whenever a cow is killed, they search within its stomach
in the hope of finding it. From this habit of searching
the intestines of a cow, they have adopted the old Roman
custom of foretelling the future by the appearance of the
entrails. At present there is not the least indication
displayed by these people that they possess Christianity.
On the neck of one, however, I saw a white shell, with a
cross rudely carved upon it.

On September 23, we reached the Tana River at a
place called Merifano. At this point the Tana is quite
a respectable stream, being about 150 yards in width,
and flowing with rapidity between steep clay banks,
which are surmounted with tall sycamores, heavily laden
with festooning creepers.

Here we fell in with the Pokomo. These people we
found to be a simple and kindly race, eager to please,
and delighted beyond expression when they discovered
that our intentions were peaceable. The day we

I TRAVELS [VN EASTERN AFRICA 39

reached the Tana one of our camels died, and was
greedily eaten by our men, who considered meat in any
form a luxury.

From our arrival at the Tana dates the real beginning
of our journey, for at this point we left behind all thought

OuR POKOMO BOATMEN

of even the partial civilization of the coast. It was with
more than curiosity that Lieutenant von Hohnel and I
gazed at the swirling, muddy stream at our feet, wonder-
ing whence it came, and seeking to interpret its loud
murmur into words of cheer and welcome to the new-
comers upon its banks.

CHAPTER. di

On the morning of the 24th many Pokomo came into
camp, bringing small presents, consisting of Indian corn,
a few fowls, and a bushel or two of millet. They prayed
for my protection against the raiders. I told them I
would drive the raiders back if they made an attack dur-
ing my stay along the river, and that they could rest
assured that in a short time the English would drive
these people forever from their neighbourhood. At the
time of writing (1895) this result has been happily ac-
complished, and peace reigns once more along the banks
of the Tana.

The Pokomo are undoubtedly of Bantu origin, and
their language is very similar to that of the Zanzibari.
They clothe themselves in waist-bands of cheap cotton,
and the men, one and all, carry long spears, which con-
vey a warlike impression, but which are used more as
paddles, or as poles for their canoes, than as implements
of war. The length of these spears is about eight feet,
and the blades are short and trowel-shaped.

Our camp was pitched among the ruins of a village
recently destroyed by the raiders. As the natives be-
came more accustomed to our presence, they swarmed
into camp, bringing small parcels of grain for sale.
The trading-goods taken by the Pokomo in exchange
for their products are rods of soft lead, having a thick-

40

CHAP. II TRAVELS IM EASTERN AFRICA 4!

ness of one-fourth of an inch and a length of fourteen
inches. These are used as ornaments — either as brace-
lets or anklets. The cheapest of cotton goods finds a
ready demand, and salt, ghee, and spearheads are much

asked for.

Upon the day of our arrival at the Tana it was ascer-
tained that one load of ammunition was missing; and
upon calling the roll of the men we found that one of
our porters had disappeared. I sent runners back to
Witu to report the matter to Captain Rogers, who had
charge of the station. I succeeded in getting the load,
but heard nothing more of the man.

The march from Marefano to Kinekombe was un-
eventful; we journeyed along, at times close to the river
bank, and at times prevented from so doing by the thick

42 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

undergrowth, and forced to take a line some distance
from the river, where the country was more open. We
usually broke camp about 7 a.m., that is, an hour
after dawn, and took up the march. As it was our
invariable custom to camp near the river, our path at
first led through very tall grass and over plantations.

While on the march, from my horse’s back I could
just see the heads of the tall spears carried by the
Pokomo guides, which danced and gleamed in the light
of the rising sun. Presently we emerged from the grass
and were confronted by a tangled and impassable grove,
which called for the use of axes and machettes. These
came at a call, and soon the forest rang with the re-
sounding blows of the axes, the cracking of broken
boughs, and the shouts of the workmen. In three-
quarters of an hour a path was made; and where but
a short time before all was noise and disorder, the cara-
van wended silently and smoothly on its way.

There was something imposing in the picture pre-
sented by the caravan, when viewed from a short dis-
tance. The camels swayed gracefully and majestically
onward beneath their high-piled burdens, followed by a
winding line of men, made tall and imposing by the
massive loads borne upon their heads. Following the
men, were the cattle and donkeys, which added solidity
to the column; and, bringing up the rear, as a fitting
finish to the whole, rode tall Lieutenant von Hoéhnel on
his white pony. Asa rule, not a sound was to be heard.
Occasionally, however, some porter, bursting with vitality
unsuppressed by the eighty-pound burden he bore, car-
olled forth some simple lay, such as: “Vily vily, sawa

tee

sawa, pocho!”—the burden of the song being of food

II TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 43

just partaken of, or looked forward to with expectation.
Occasionally an obstacle was encountered by the cara-
van, and then the even, and I might say almost solemn,
movement was at once broken. The camels were
forced to kneel, bellowing forth the while their displeas-
ure at such an indignity; the donkeys ran hither and
thither among the loads thrown down by the men;
shouts, curses, and blows from the ever-ready stick filled
the air, and the pandemonium continued until the diff-
culty—whether river, hill, thicket, or forest—had been
surmounted and passed, when the caravan again swung
into its accustomed smooth and_ noiseless movement
toward its goal.

At times the guides proved very poorly informed as to
the route, and led us through tangled masses of mimosa,
aloes, and creeping vines. In such cases the axes were
in constant requisition; and in consequence, often for
hours at a time, our progress was dismally slow.

During the afternoon of this day we encamped on the
banks of the river. As it was customary to pitch our
tents under tall trees in the cool of the evening, with the
knowledge that a certain portion of the distance had
been covered, our minds were filled with pleasant
thoughts (despite the fact that Lieutenant von Hohnel
was suffering greatly from his feet), when turned to the
distance yet to be accomplished before reaching Kine-
kombe—the point at which we were to find the canoes.
One of the canoes contained what we regarded as pre-
cious freight,—ninety-six bottles of Tennent’s Pilsner
beer, —the thought of which acted as a tonic to our
spirits, and lent energy to our tired feet while on the
march,

44 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

As a rule, the Pokomo were friendly and easily con-
vinced of our good intentions; but at times we met with
difficulty in procuring guides. Along the banks of the
Tana, except at points where the natives had made
clearings, the forest growth was really picturesque and
imposing. The Pokomo have a slight knowledge of
irrigation, and in their little openings in the forest an
idea can be had of the productiveness of the soil, and
what might be accomplished by cultivation of the soil, if
European methods were in vogue. This, however, is
only in the immediate neighbourhood of the river; for at
distances varying from too yards to one mile from the
banks of the river, the aspect changes into that of a
sandy desert, gleaming here and there with mica. Such
trees as are found on this desert are stunted mimosa
and aloes.

Continued march brought us on September 30 to a
point on the river bank opposite the village of Kine-
kombe, which is the largest Pokomo village on the
Tana. The village contains about 500 conical-shaped
huts, covering a space of not less than forty acres.
It is surrounded by a strong hedge on the landward
sides, as a protection from attacking parties; while the
steep clay banks of the river afford protection on the
water side. This is the only town of the Pokomo
which is able to repel the attacks of the raiding tribes;
in consequence, cultivation of the surrounding planta-
tions is carried on extensively, and food is cheap and
plentiful.

Here I found Mohamet Aman with my river column,
which had arrived in safety a few days before. Think-
ing we would follow the right bank, he had built a nice

II TRAVELS [NV EASTERN AFRICA 45

camp. I crossed to the camp and at once opened a
bottle of beer. What nectar it seemed! Seven hours
in an arid desert turns water into wine, and beer into a
drink for the gods. The Pokomo employed in my canoes,
after greeting me pleasantly upon my arrival, expressed
an ardent desire to return to the coast. A few words
and a small present changed their purpose, and _ they
were eager with protestations of devotion, and expressed
a willingness to follow me to the ends of the earth.

VILLAGE OF KINEKOMBE

The chief of the village was named Kula; he brought
me a present of unshelled rice and a lot of Indian corn.
Up to this point the route had been a good one, as
regards supplies. The deposits of millet left by my
canoes at points along the route proved unnecessary, for
the natives even in the poorest districts had sufficient
to supply the wants of my people. With modern means
of agriculture and intelligent irrigation, the banks of the
Tana should yield abundant rice and corn. This is by
far the richest country I had yet seen.

At Kinekombe I remained several days, for the pur-
pose of allowing the backs of the donkeys, which had

46 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

become sore, to heal; and to give the camels a much-
needed rest. On the road to Kinekombe I had four
deserters, only one of whom I succeeded in capturing
with his load. On the day after my arrival there some
of my men took their rifles and went to the village;
whereupon, all the natives fled. It was only after pro-
longed effort that I was able to reassure them and bring
them back. I placed one of my headmen on duty to
prevent outrage, and limited the number of my men
permitted in the village at one time to thirty.

One day during my stay at this place the Soudanese
appeared in front of my tent, and expressed themselves
as dissatisfied with everything connected with the expe-
dition. They asserted, among other things, that their
food was insufficient and of poor quality. As these men
had before boasted to me of the fact, that during the
campaigns of the Mahdi they had for weeks lived upon
grass, I gave little heed to their complaint; but in-
formed them that if they were dissatisfied with the
quantity of food, the only change possible would be a
reduction in it. They, thereupon, wished to depose the
Balook Bashi. As they had sworn to obey this man,
and as I had not yet pitched upon one of their num-
ber suitable to succeed him, I told them they must
keep their oath. They then returned sullenly to their
quarters.

Lieutenant von Hohnel’s feet became worse, instead of
better, so that we decided it would be advisable for him
to travel, at least a portion of the distance up the river,
in a canoe; and on October 2, he, in charge of the river
column, left Kinekombe. As soon as the canoes dis-
appeared around a bend in the river, I began to feel

u TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 47

badly and took to bed. In the afternoon fever set in,
and my temperature rose to 103. I took phenacetine,
and it fell to 101. At 9 P.M. my temperature again rose,
and reached 104; phenacetine and castor oil brought it
down to 101, and oft-repeated doses of quinine kept it
there.

On the following day I attempted to resume my jour-
ney, but found myself too weak (I suffered from slight
dysentery); so that I spent the day in bed.

SCENE IN CAMP ON THE COAST

The next day, October 4, I felt slightly better, and
with effort was able to sit my horse; so we set out
upon our way. We lost another deserter that day.

On October 6, the road on the left bank of the river
was so full of thick growths as to be almost impassable ;
so, upon reaching a village called Subaki, we crossed to
the other bank. In this crossing we were greatly assisted
by the natives, who provided ten canoes, and in a few
hours all my loads were transported across the river.
The cattle gave no trouble, and swam across almost of
their own accord; but the crossing of the camels, don-
keys, and horses was a more serious matter, and required

48 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

nearly twenty-four hours for its completion. It was
effected in the following manner. One of my men sat
in the stern of a canoe, and held the head of an animal
(camel, horse, or donkey) above water; two natives in
the bow propelled the canoe across the stream. By this
means all my animals were transported in safety. The
exercise incident to the superintendence of this cross-
ing did not improve my dysentery; nevertheless, I was
forced to push on. Another deserter that day.

The following day I reached Massa, opposite which
Lieutenant von Hohnel and the canoes were stationed.
Again one man deserted. This time the runaway took
with him a valuable load consisting of flannel and
blankets, which made a serious loss. Lieutenant von
Hohnel seemed to improve and do well in the canoes,
and reported that the natives were thoroughly friendly.
I sent two Somali and twenty-four men under Hamidi
back to our last camp to search on both sides of the
road for the lost load of flannel and blankets, which I
thought might have been thrown into the bush. I sent
this force, as rumours had reached me that a large war-
party was in the neighbourhood.

The Pokomo at Massa are different from their breth-
ren inhabiting the lower portion of the Tana; they are
smaller in stature, and speak a different dialect. From
all I could observe and learn, they have few character-
istic customs. Their fear of tempting Galla or Somali
raiders forces them to make it a rule never to keep live-
stock: if by chance they get a sheep or goat in trade,
they at once slay it. They cultivate their plantations
sufficiently to provide for their wants, and have, more-
over, stores of grain hidden away to avert famine, in

II TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 49

case of a bad crop. Their method of dividing labour is
as follows. The inhabitants of the village, at least those
that are able-bodied, are divided into two parts, each
taking its turn on alternate days at the cultivation of
the plantations. This keeps them employed but one-
half of the time — the other half they spend in sleep and
idleness. The canoes here are smaller than those used
lower down the river.

At Massa my men took it upon themselves to raid a
plantation of the Pokomo. I promptly punished the
raiders and restored the stolen property. This action
filled the natives with surprise and pleasure, and it
appeared to be the first time that such an event had
happened to them.

Upon leaving, owing to the non-appearance of the
guides, we were compelled to make a late start. When
they at length arrived, I arranged with them to guide us
to a point called Dukulh, said to be about twelve miles
up the river. The sun was very hot, and my retrievers
appeared to suffer intensely; I gave them all the water
I could spare from my bottle, but it seemed to afford
them no relief. We marched on and on until 2.30
p.M., and my guides seemed either knaves or fools.
They insisted that the camp lay still farther to the front,
although I was confident that had it been the distance
they stated we must long since have passed the place.
But I was too weak and ill to initiate a search for the
camp, which might after all prove fruitless, and so I
struggled on. My men, with their usual thoughtless-
ness, had neglected to put water into their bottles, and
in consequence they all suffered from thirst. Owing
to my dysentery I still suffered from weakness; and,

E

50 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

finally, at four o'clock, I fell from my horse, and was
compelled to lie under a tree for some time before |
could recover sufficient strength to move on. I sent the
camels on in front, and the donkeys followed. The
porters were not in sight, and my poor retrievers had
long since fallen to the rear. At 5.30 I started after
my camels, and found them lying in a thick under-
growth, surrounded by the donkeys and their drivers.

Where were the guides? It seemed, one of my
Soudanese (Herella) felt thirsty, and upon asking the
guides for water, and being told by them that it was
still some distance in front, flew into a passion and
began beating them; whereupon these gentle creatures
fled. This had not been reported to me, or perhaps I
might have caught them and brought them back. The
question now presented was: Where were we to get
water? and its early, if not immediate solution was fast
becoming an important necessity. I sent a Somali to
look for it, and he soon returned with the welcome
intelligence that it was not far distant.

The tangled mass of undergrowth, in which my
camels and donkeys were found, was so thick that I
found it necessary to cut a road for them. All the
available men were set to work with axes, and by 6.30 a
road was completed. At 7 we managed to reach a pool
of water formed by the back-wash of the Tana dur-
ing the rainy season. There the camels and donkeys,
together with twenty men, formed the only visible por-
tion of my caravan. I sent the twenty men back, laden
with water, to my struggling porters. This done, I
threw myself down to rest, but not to sleep. All
through the night the men straggled in by twos and

II TRAVELS IM EASTERN AFRICA 51

threes; I had the tomtom beaten, and guns fired at
intervais, to inform them of my whereabouts. At 1 a.m.
George reached me, and reported that the dogs had
died at a point far in the rear; also, that Mohamadi,
the second headman, and eight of the men whom |
had sent back with him in search of the flannel and
blankets, were not far away. He also reported a rumour
that one of my men had been drowned in crossing the
river, and that shots had been fired at the Pokomo, re-
sulting in the death of one or two of them. This was
sufficient for one day, so I went to sleep, thoroughly worn
out.

When I awoke in the morning, all the men had
arrived. I called Mohamadi, and questioned him as
to the rumours of trouble with the natives. He said
that he with his eight men had searched along the
road for the lost load, and, not finding it, had crossed
ther tiver to the village: of Sissini, to search there.
During the search his men had been attacked by
the natives; and, as his force had but six cartridges
in all, they were soon driven out, and in crossing the
river one of my men and five rifles had been lost.
Upon cross-questioning him, it appeared to me that his
story was false. Knowing, as I did, the peaceful charac-
ter of the Pokomo, and the lawlessness of the Zanzibari,
I had no doubt that, instead of searching for the cloth,
they had devoted their time to raiding, and had at
length forced the poor natives to resistance. I punished
Mohamadi sufficiently for his breach of discipline.

Lieutenant von Hoéhnel was at Tuni, and I learned
that that point was but a short distance from our
stopping-place. Accordingly, as rain was expected, and

52 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

as my caravan was much fatigued by the long marches
we had lately taken, I decided to rest there for some
time, at least until the rains were over, and our beasts
of burden had put on a little flesh,—they by this time
being mere skeletons. The autumn rains were then
due, and during the rainy season the country on the
banks of the Tana is absolutely impassable, its soft,
loamy soil becoming one vast swamp. Bearing this in
mind, we made preparations for a more or less prolonged
stay at Tuni.

In the course of a few days we had a quite respect-
able camp built. The porters were exceedingly clever
at building huts. Given some poles, plenty of grass,
and an axe or two, in half a day they will erect a cool
and water-proof habitation. Instead of nails, they use
withes and vines, of which they make excellent rope.

In Tuni the weather was excessively hot, and the ther-
mometer never fell below 88° Fahrenheit, even at night;
while in the daytime the rays of the sun were scorch-
ing. We spent three weeks there, waiting patiently
for the rains, while our men distinguished themselves
by attempting on several occasions small raids on the
natives. For this they were invariably punished; but,
notwithstanding all my efforts in their behalf, the
natives persisted in holding aloof from us, so that it
was difficult to purchase food. At length, however, I
managed to lay in a supply sufficient for my wants.
The rains, although due at this time, and expected by
the natives as well as ourselves, amounted to practically
nothing; not more than three showers fell, and they
were very light. Our stay did the beasts a great deal
of good; not such, however, was its effect upon the

tt TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 53

Somali, Soudanese, and Europeans. There was con-
tinuous suffering from fever, and some of the men had
really sharp attacks. The porters seemed proof against
the attacks of fever and climatic influences, and in fact
were greatly benefited by our stay, in appearance at
least.

One evening during our stay at Tuni six elephant-
hunters appeared in our camp. These men were na-

POKOMO BOAtT BUILDERS AT WORK

tives of Giriama, a country lying a little to the north of
Mombasa. They stated that they had been away seven
months hunting ivory, and had managed to get seven
tusks. On their way down the river they had been
attacked by the Somali, who killed two of their number,
and robbed them of their ivory, at a point about two
days’ march above our camp. I questioned them closely
as to the whereabouts of the Somali, and then persuaded
them to act as guides to the point.

Early the next morning I set out with seventy men,
and after crossing the river marched quickly along

54 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

the left bank. At the end of two days’ march the
guides said we were then but a short distance from
the point where they had been attacked.

Upon first telling their story, they had described the
attacking party of Somali as consisting of several hun-
dred men, and stated that these, with large flocks and
herds, were camped near the river. Now, however,
upon being questioned, they changed their story to
the effect that the Somali were few in number, and
like themselves were elephant-hunters. We pushed on
the next day, sending out Somali scouts to reconnoitre.
In a short time they returned with the intelligence that
they had seen Somali tracks leading to the river. It
is easy to distinguish from the appearance of the im-
pression made in the soil by a sandal, whether it is
made by a Somali, or by a member of some of the
other native tribes. The sandals of the Somali are
made with much greater care (often consisting of as
many as four or five thicknesses of leather in the sole),
and have a well-defined shape. Those worn by the other
tribes consist of but a single thickness, and have no defi-
nite shape.

Upon receiving this intelligence from the scouts I
had sent out, I halted the caravan, and sent four Somali
to reconnoitre the neighbourhood, and bring back intel-
ligence as to the force I was likely to encounter. In
less than one hour these men returned, bringing with
them a small, ill-fed negro with a head covered with
a veritable bush of hair, dyed by some means to a yel-
lowish colour. This colour of hair I had noticed among
the Somali I had met at Aden. The man proved to be
a Midgan; that is,a member of a tribe held in subjec-

II TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 55

tion by the Somali, and used by them as hunters, scouts,
and herdsmen.

The account of his capture given to me by my men
was as follows: On taking up the trail leading from
the river they had suddenly come upon a small zeriba.
This, at first, they thought to be empty; but upon
entering it they were startled to see their present cap-
tive spring to his feet with an arrow strung in his bow.
Before he could find time to discharge his weapon,
however, he was knocked down by a blow with the
butt-end of a gun in the hands of one of my men, and
after a scuffle was bound and brought into my presence.
Upon being questioned, he admitted he was one of
the party who had robbed the Giriama. He said the
party consisted of eight men belonging to Hassan
Burgan (a Somali ruling over a portion of the coun-
try between Kismayu and the Tana). He and his party
had been sent out by their master to hunt ivory, but
had secured none; and they were surprised and de-
lighted to find the Giriama, and had taken their ivory
from them. The captive insisted that at present he
was alone, and that his companions had gone to the
coast with their plunder.

I went to the zeriba, and found it full of Somali
utensils. It looked as if it had been occupied by a
larger party than our captive had told me of. All
around were bits of giraffe meat drying in the sun,
and, when surprised by my men, the Midgan had been
engaged in making sandals from a piece of the giraffe
hide. The presence of prayer mats disclosed the fact
that they were Mohammedans. I gave the captive a
good lecture, and told him to inform his master, Hassan

56 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

Burgan, that raiding along the banks of the Tana
must cease. I doubt if he ever delivered my message.

After this little experience I returned to my camp
at Tuni, having acquired but little satisfactory informa-
tion, and a sharp attack of fever.

While at Tuni two of my men deserted. One of the
most difficult phases of African travel is the desire, latent
in nearly every porter, to desert at one time or another
during an expedition. There are but few porters em-
ployed on the east coast of Africa who have not at
some period in their career tasted the sweets of French
leave. I have questioned many of them, but they,
themselves, could give no reason for their desertion.
Generally, if closely pressed, they would laugh, shrug
their shoulders, and say: “ Nimechoka, bwana” (I was
tired, master). Sometimes a porter will work in a cara-
van an entire year, and then, without apparent cause,
when perhaps hundreds of miles from his home, will
desert; not only forfeiting all the pay he has earned,
but running a very considerable risk of not reaching
the coast alive.

During my first journey into Africa I had but four
desertions from my caravan; which I attribute to the
fact that my porters were, for the most part, Wanyan-
wezi, a tribe inhabiting a section of the country about
300 miles south of Victoria Nyanza. Those men made
the best possible porters, and rarely, if ever, deserted.
In this expedition, however, I had succeeded in secur-
ing but one of this tribe, and he proved one of the few
who remained faithful to the end. A traveller explor-
ing an unknown portion of Africa is dependent for the
safety and success of his expedition upon the fidelity

II TRAVELS [NV EASTERN AFRICA 57

of his men. The first instinct, therefore, is to humour
them as much as possible, and thereby firmly bind
their affections to the interests of their master. But
I had found to my extreme disgust, upon questioning
my men after enlistment, that but twenty-three of them
had been on an expedition before. With this rabble
of youths which I had at my command, such was their
lawlessness and wanton abuse of the natives, that I was
forced to adopt more severe measures than [ liked.

In the short period intervening between our start
from Lamoo and our departure from Tuni we had lost
nine men and two valuable loads by desertions. I had
discovered from the behaviour of Mohamadi at Sissini,
when he went back in search of the runaways, that |
could not trust even my headmen to treat the natives
with consideration, when not under my eye. On the
march my Soudanese were required to prevent the
porters from deserting, and my Somali had their time
fully occupied with the camels; so that I had no trust-
worthy means for the apprehension of deserters while
on the march.

We left Tuni on November 7, Lieutenant von
Hohnel again going with the river column. We ar-
ranged to meet at a point three days’ journey up the
river. On this day two men deserted, and three others
made repeated attempts to do likewise. My porters
were all armed, and from this point carried ten rounds
of ammunition per man. In one instance, the would-be
deserter, upon finding himself tracked to his hiding-place
by George and the Soudanese, slipped a cartridge into
his rifle, and aimed it at the chief of the Soudanese.
He was disarmed by a man crawling behind him. That

58 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP. II

night, upon coming to a halt, I called the men of the
caravan together, and explained to them that desertions
must cease. I asked them if they had any complaints
to make, to which they of course, as is customary with
the negro, replied, “No; bwana Ngema” (Master is
good). I then said that all the porters who wished to
return to the coast had my full permission to do so,
provided they took advantage of this permission at
once. No one volunteered. I then told them that
should any further desertions be attempted, the deserter
would do so at the peril of his life. I little thought
that this threat, made for the purpose of strengthening
their fidelity, would have a serious result.

On the third day from Tuni, after a brisk march, I
reached Lieutenant von Hohnel and the canoes shortly
after noon. An hour after I arrived, George and the
last of the caravan appeared. George came direct to
my tent, bringing the Balook Bashi with him; and with
the aid of the interpreter, Ramazan, I gathered the fol-
lowing story. It appeared that one of the porters who
attempted to desert on the day of our departure from
Tuni had, during this day’s march, again made repeated
efforts with the same end in view. He had _ been
deprived of his load, and placed in front of the Balook
Bashi, who had been told to drive the man along in
front of him, and watch him. The man feigned fatigue,
and his pace was very slow; the Balook Bashi endeav-
oured to hasten the man’s movements, whereupon the
porter bolted into the bushes as fast as he could run.
The Balook Bashi chased him for some distance, and
being unable to catch him, fired a shot, with the hope
of frightening the culprit and bringing him to a halt.

SHONVD YAO

i =

CHAP. II TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 61

Unfortunately the rifle was too well aimed, and the man
fell to the ground, shot between the two shoulders.

I was forced to accept the Balook Bashi’s statement,
though unsupported by corroborative testimony of others.
As it happened that this man had not only continually
boasted that he would desert, but also had made repeated
attempts to do so, and was in fact the man who had
loaded his rifle on the previous day, I cannot say that
my pity for the poor wretch was as great as it certainly
would otherwise have been. However, I took this oppor-
tunity to break the Balook Bashi to the ranks, and pun-
ished him severely. I then made Ramazan chief of the
Soudanese, in his stead.

From this time on, Lieutenant von H®ohnel left the
canoes and marched with the caravan. I put four of
my best men with the river column, and arranged to
meet them about four days’ journey up the river, at a
place called Malkakofira — the first village of the Galla.

The Tana River has on its shores three distinct tribes.
At the coast, in the neighbourhood of Kau, there are
some four or five hundred Galla; then for 100 miles
the Pokomo inhabit both banks; then comes a reach
of about sixty miles, uninhabited, with the exception of
small and scattered bands of people, who live by hunt-
ing and fishing. These people are called Wasania,
and are not akin to either the Galla or Pokomo. From
Malkakofira to the district of Korokoro, the country is
inhabited by both Galla and Pokomo. The Galla
inhabiting this portion of the river are a finer type
than those who live near the coast, and much more
numerous. They keep the Pokomo in a state of sub-
jection, forcing them to give them a certain portion of

62 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

their crops, and convey them up and down the river
when they so desire. ‘This state of affairs has evidently
lasted for many years; for at present the Pokomo,
although preserving their racial characteristics, have
not only adopted the language of the Galla, but have
lost all remembrance of their own tongue. The distinc-
tion between the two tribes is, however, clearly main-
tained, and they never intermarry. In return for the
tribute above mentioned, the Galla protect the Pokomo
from the raids of the Somali on the left bank, and the
attacks of the Wakamba on the right.

In this neighbourhood, some miles from the left
bank, Dr. Peters located on his map the Galla moun-
tains and the Friedrich Franz range. These ranges
were invisible to us, and most careful scrutiny failed to
reveal anything with even the proportions of what we
term a hill, in the direction indicated by Dr. Peters.

Owing to cloudy weather for the last two days, Lieu-
tenant von Hodhnel had been unable to take observa-
tions; but by dead reckoning we calculated we were
near the point where the canoes were to meet us,
— Malkakofira. On November 15 we made a late
start, thinking we should find the canoes near by.
We were prevented from following the river by a
dense growth of bush. About noon, fearing lest we
had passed our canoes, we decided to cut our way
through the bush to the river, cost what it might.
From noon until seven o'clock at night every knife
and axe in the caravan was at work; and after a ter-
rible day we succeeded in reaching the river. Fortu-
nately, there was a small open space of about half an
acre at this point; so we camped there.

II TRAVELS [NM EASTERN AFRICA 63

I had taken with me, for the purpose of crossing
rivers, a canvas Berthon boat, capable of holding six
men. On the following day I put this boat together,
and crossed to the other bank, which I found to be,
in this neighbourhood at least, fairly open desert, and
consequently good for marching. We returned about
luncheon time, and, in the hope of discovering a road
on the bank upon which we were encamped, Lieu-
tenant von Hohnel and myself, with ten men armed
with knives, attempted to cut our way to Malkakofira,
which we were convinced must be in the immediate
neighbourhood. At the end of five hours’ hard work
we had proceeded less than half a mile. The growth
through which we cut the path was the most tangled
jungle imaginable, and armed at every point with
sharp thorns. Added to this, there were innumerable
red ants, called by the natives “boiling water”; and
the designation is just and appropriate. Before we had
been in the bush fifteen minutes, we one and all were
covered with them, and bitten from head to foot. It
was dark before we gave up the attempt to cut the
road, and started to wend our way towards camp.
To add to our misery, rain began to fall; so we
took shelter under a large tree in an opening in
the bush. We fired guns, hoping our men could
hear us, and would send out guides. We rejoiced to
hear them answer, and about eleven o’clock at night
we were again in our tents, thoroughly worn out.

The following day Lieutenant von Hohnel and I
took forty-five men, crossed the river, and followed it
for four hours, when thick bush again forced us to
make a detour. We made camp, and sent men to the

64 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

river for water, which we found to be distant more
than a mile. Up to that time there was no sign of
a village. The next day we followed an elephant trail,
which had become overgrown with bushes, and by the
use of our axes, at the end of four hours reached the
river. To our joy, we found an island in the middle
of the stream, which was covered with banana trees.
We sent two men to swim the intervening stream,
who found a storehouse on the island with 3000 ears
of Indian corn, but not a sign of natives. Our food
supply being low, and not knowing when we should
find our canoes which carried the grain for the men,
we built a raft: with our table, a chair, and some
sticks, using the water-bottles of the men for floats;
and by this means succeeded in getting all the food
to our side of the stream.

Late in the afternoon we again tried to force our
way along the river, when we heard the splash of a
paddle. Looking through the intervening branches,
we saw two natives paddling a small canoe. One of
our men understood the language of the Pokomo, and
he shouted greetings to them, and asked them the
whereabouts of the next village. Instead of making
a response, the men threw themselves into the water
on the far side of the canoe, which drifted rapidly
past us, and was carried on down-stream by the cur-
rent. I am afraid they were the owners of the food
on the island. If such was the case, by their timidity
they missed an offer of payment for their store. I
suppose the poor creatures mistook us for Somall.

Next day at noon the sun appeared, and Lieutenant
von Hohnel was able to get an observation, which

II TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 65

showed that we were still more than a day’s march
south of our canoes. We returned to camp, and at
once set to work cutting a road through the bush for
the camels, donkeys, and men.

During our absence from camp two of our camels
died. These beasts seem to have the slightest pos-
sible hold upon life. Upon this occasion, however,
their deaths were not inopportune, as there was no
food in camp, and the men were delighted to get the
meat. With the corn we discovered on the island,
we were able to give the men two days’ rations.

ee: yy Mi | hi

CAMELS ON THE MARCH

The next morning we made an early start, but were
again harassed by the thick undergrowth, and prevented
from reaching the river. This time we could not get
nearer than two miles from it. All the men were then
sent to the river to get water, and some of them did
not reach camp until the following morning.

From the light rains the desert had become positively
beautiful; the vicious thorn-bushes were disguised in
delicate shades of softest green, and their thorns hidden
by blossoms, — veritable wolves in lambs’ clothing. One
of the men deserted here. I am sure he never reached
the coast, and his death in that horrible bush was a
terrible penalty for his stupidity.

F

66 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

Through fear of encountering the thick bush, instead
of pushing ahead the following day, I took two of my
men, and set out for the river, in the hope of finding a
Galla village, and there procuring guides. Four hours’
work brought me to the river; but when I reached it,
there was no sign of habitation to be seen, not even a
path along the bank. The bush was annoyingly thick,
and my clothing was torn in many places by the thorns.
My temper suffered also; and after resting an hour, I
returned to my disconsolate caravan. The men looked
at me with questioning eyes. They seemed to be losing
their confidence in me; and certainly the preceding
three or four days were likely to instil any opinion
rather than that we were good guides. The country is
so covered with swamps here, that without a native
guide it is positively dangerous to travel. A day or
two without water would ruin the most perfectly
equipped caravan; and this is a risk one runs.

Late in the afternoon, after more cutting, we reached
the desert, and at 6 p.m., much to our joy, found a large
swamp filled with drinkable water.

Soon after starting next morning, we came upon old
trails, which indicated to us we were near habitations.
On the road I killed a large and hideous puff adder
about four feet in length, which was lying across my
path. We made camp early, and I took George and
100 men to the river, distant half a mile. From this
point on, we appeared to have left behind us the
impenetrable bush. We divided into two companies;
George went north, and I south.

In my absence, Lieutenant von Hoéhnel went to a vil-
lage which one of the porters had discovered, and there,

II TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 67

greatly to his joy, found one of our canoes with three
days’ food. I joined them in half an hour. The village
proved to be Benayo, inhabited by Pokomo. My canoes
were safe, one day’s march farther up the river. This
was good news; for I had feared that without a Euro-
pean there might be danger for them among the Galla,
as they were insufficiently manned.

After our days of toil and worry in the bush, we
hailed with delight the prospect of a little rest; so we
remained here one day. During the night it rained
continuously, and we congratulated ourselves on the
good fortune which prevented the fall of these rains
while we were in the bush.

The following day we broke camp at 6 a.m., took two
Galla guides, and marched steadily for seven hours,
when we reached Tulu Kuleso, where we found our
canoes safely moored. The sight of our canoes all safe
and sound, and the hearty greetings of our men in them,
rendered our meeting a pure delight; for the separation
of the caravan from the river column for such a long
period had been a point of great weakness in the expe-
dition, freighted as the canoes were with twenty-five
days’ food and many valuable loads. It appears that
when the Galla first saw our boats, they threatened
violence; but the eloquence of Sadi soon persuaded
them of our peaceable intentions.

After our arrival at Tule, we received word from the
Galla chief that he would come to our camp on the
morrow, and pay his respects. Accordingly, early on
the following morning, we were not surprised to see
two tall, good-looking natives appear, who announced
through Sadi, our interpreter, that their father, the chief,

68 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

was on his way to our camp. Soon he appeared, an old
man bowed down with years, with features quite Euro-
pean, a short and ill-trimmed white beard, and a well-
shaped head. While walking he supported himself with
a stick, and he wore, thrown loosely over his shoulders,
a square cloak, made of some rough, white cloth of
native manufacture. He brought with him, as a present,
a goat, two chickens, and some honey.

By means of Sadi, I had a long palaver with him.
We parted good friends, and I gave him notice that I
would return his visit in the afternoon. We established
trade relations, after which trade became very brisk.
The natives were very timorous at the outset, but
through the efforts of Sadi they soon gained confidence,
and as the prices he gave them seemed very good,
they were constantly offering to trade. For ten pounds
of corn about fifteen inches of the cheapest cotton
goods were given.

The canoes were anchored just below our camp,
which was on an open sandy ridge, about ten yards from
the river. Sadi and his boatmen pitched their tents
just on the brink of the stream, under a wide-spreading
tree, which even at noon-time cast a deep shade. By
twos and threes the Pokomo canoes came across the
river, laden with produce, which they took to Sadi’s
tent, where it was measured and its equivalent in cloth
given for it. Soon a great pile of sacks was to be seen
near the market-place, which gave an air of plenty to
the camp.

At 5 p.m. Lieutenant von Hodhnel and I, together
with Sadi, went to the chief’s quarters with a present.
After a little conversation we endeavoured to get some

II TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 69

information concerning the Rendile and Galla tribes to
the north; but these poor river people seemed to know
nothing of their surroundings or neighbours. They
spoke with fear of the Wakamba, and said that it would
be only a matter of a few years ere these dreaded war-
riors wiped the Tana Gallas off the face of the earth.
I never saw a people so convinced of their evil fate.
This hopelessness they attributed to the fact that they
had lost their holy book, of which I spoke in a former
chapter.

The limit of navigation on the Tana is at a place
called Hameye, a short two days’ march up the river.
At this point the British East African Company had at
one time erected a station, built by Commander Dun-
das, who had ascended the river in a _ stern-wheel
steamer. This station was now deserted, and we in-
tended to make it our camp for some time. We sent
our canoes on to Hameye, and two days’ leisurely
marching brought us to a point on the river opposite
the station, which we found to be in capital repair. It
was defended by a strong log fence on three sides, the
fourth being sufficiently protected by the river. Here
a good building made of wattles and clay, and well-
thatched with dry grass, stood ready for the Europeans,
and there were a few huts for the porters.

Hameye Station stands upon dry ground on the left
bank of the Tana. The river at this point is dotted
with many small islands well covered with tropical ver-
dure. Up-stream it widens out into a large lake fringed
with tall poplars, and literally filled with islets, between
which the Tana quietly and pleasantly ripples. I can
imagine few more charming places for a lengthened

70 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP. II

stay. It seemed healthy, food was abundant, but one
day’s journey down-stream, and for those that do not
long for hills it was certainly a most beautiful spot.

On the march to Hameye I shot a. fine specimen of
walleri antelope. While buried in the woods, waiting
until my men finished the road, I was startled by the
crackling of bush; when suddenly a beautiful specimen
of water-buck leaped past me, his horns lying along his
neck, and his head thrown back. In a moment he was
gone. Iam glad I had laid my gun aside, or I should
have been tempted to shoot him. At 8 p.m. all the men
reached the river, and we camped on the shore. The
following day all the loads and beasts were safely ferried
over the stream, and the place began to look as if it had
been inhabited at all times, instead of having been
deserted for more than a year. I gave the guides pres-
ents, and sent them home.

In contrast with the two weeks of work we had just
finished, our life at Hameye seemed a Paradise. Our
cup of happiness seemed filled, when we realized that
we had a cool roof over our heads, a stream of clear
water flowing at our feet, and meals consisting of good
food served with regularity three times daily. Camps
like the one at Hameye are welcome oases in the desert
of African travel; but to yield to the attractions of any
one spot does not subserve the ends for which an
expedition into Africa is promoted. Onward! Onward!
is the cry ever ringing in one’s ears; so after two days
of this delicious idleness we began preparations for the
continuance of our journey. The canoes were returned
to the coast, as we had agreed with Sadi and the Po-
komo to return them as soon as we reached Hameye.

AAAWVH LV dNVO

n

CHAP. II TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 73

We sent back in these canoes five worthless porters, our
letters for Europe, the specimens we had up to that time
collected, photographic plates we had used, and our third
headman with four trustworthy companions. The latter
were sent to endeavour to enlist fresh recruits from the
coast, and procure some things we found to be abso-
lutely necessary for the well-being of the caravan, which
we had neglected to procure at an earlier date. We
calculated that, as these men had the current with them
to the coast, they should be able to transact our busi-
ness and return in five weeks. This period Lieutenant
von Hohnel and I decided to spend in a journey to the
north. We intended to follow the Mackenzie River to
its source, which at that time was supposed to be Lake
Lorian. We also hoped to fall in with the Rendile, as
Lieutenant von Hohnel had heard at Kismayu_ that
they often pastured their flocks and herds in the neigh-
bourhood of this lake. In order that we might cover
ground as quickly as possible, we took with us but
eighty picked men, with food for thirty days, trusting
to find on the road sufficient game to supply us with
provisions, should we be gone for a longer period of
time.

George we left at Hameye. The place seemed healthy
for both man and beast. The camels were sorely in
need of rest, as was also the case with most of the
donkeys. Many of the men, too, seemed suffering from
fatigue, and there was much work to be done, such as
training the oxen to carry loads, and making up in
proper parcels the goods which up to this point had
been transported in the canoes. Food was cheap here,
and we concluded that, if ever there was a place where

74 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

a portion of our caravan could with safety and advan-
tage be left behind, it was Hameye. Many of our men
were sick before our arrival at Hameye. Within a
few days after, three died from dysentery, and one
who had been an opium eater, and had taken with
him but sufficient opium for six weeks, died from the
lack of it soon after the exhaustion of his store.

At Hameye the Soudanese again attempted to assert
their independence. One day some of the natives came
to me, and complained that some of my men were plun-
dering their plantations. Investigation discovered that
the culprits were four of my Soudanese; these four men
I promptly punished. After receiving their punishment
they went to their quarters, but in a few minutes the
whole body of them appeared, drawn up in line in front
of my house. I went out to them, and was immediately
informed by their new Balook Bashi, Ramazan, that he
regretted to state that his brethren wished to return at
once to Massowah. They said they were tired of the
severe work they had been compelled to perform (up to
this point their work had consisted of marching only —
even their mats and extra clothing had been carried by
the donkeys); they said they had signed on with the
expedition in the expectation of fighting and glory, and
they had imagined they would receive the treatment of
soldiers. They also stated (and this I found to be the
real cause of their irritation) that they could not stay
in the same camp with the Somali. Undoubtedly there
was a great deal of jealousy between these two races.
The Somali were rigorous Mohammedans, but the Sou-
danese, although they professed that religion, made no
practice of it. For this laxity they had been twitted by

II TRAVELS [IN EASTERN AFRICA 75

the Somali; and from that small beginning their mutual
feelings had grown to intensest hatred of each other.

I felt the time had come when it was necessary to use
prompt measures to teach these spoiled children of fort-
une their proper position in the caravan; so there was
first administered to each of them a sharp reprimand,
and then a severe punishment. This little scene over,
the spirits of the Soudanese appeared to rise; their faces
were wreathed in smiles, and for the next few days they
appeared the happiest people in the caravan.

CHEAT TER Li

From the coast to Hameye there had been little occa-
sion for using our rifles,—a few water-buck and one
or two small antelope made up our game-bag, — but
from this point onward game was much more plenti-
ful, and our rifles were in constant requisition.

Were it not for the rifle, the difficulty of provisioning
one’s caravan in Africa would be much increased. It
is not for sport alone that one shoots in that country ;
though it is safe to state that the desire to slay is gener-
ally present in every fully developed and vigorous man.

It has been the fashion of late years to draw a
marked distinction between scientific travellers and
sportsmen, and the comparison has not always been
favourable to the latter. Many men who from physi-
cal reasons or inexperience have not been qualified
to use a rifle with success, have taken pains to dis-
close this fact by saying they were no sportsmen;
thereby seeking to imply that their lack of sporting
instinct was more or less to their credit. On _ the
other hand, there have been, unquestionably, many
persons who, in the name of sport, have indulged
in a wanton slaughter of God’s creatures. But, hap-
pily, there is a mean between these two extremes.

Both Lieutenant von Hohnel and I had in our former
African experience indulged to the top of our bent the

76

CHAP. IIL TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA oH)

desire for sport; but even then we had not been guilty
of any unnecessary slaughter of game; for what we shot
had been eaten by our men, so that the brute lives we
sacrificed went to increase the vitality of human beings
who stood much in need of it.

Bearing in mind the necessity of being fully pre-
pared not only to slay game for the pot, but also in
self-defence, to check the rush of dangerous animals,
we had expended much time and forethought on the
formation of our battery. Upon his former journey
Lieutenant von Hohnel had used with great success
an eight-bore express rifle; and although I, on account
of its weight and the poor results I achieved with
large weapons, was prejudiced against the express rifle,
we took with us one of these weapons, made by
Messrs. Holland & Holland, of New Bond Street, Lon-
don. We also had three .577 express rifles and one
.500 from the same makers.

During my former journey George had achieved ex-
cellent results upon antelope and thin-skinned animals
with a .45/90 Winchester, and I had used this weapon,
and found it perfectly satisfactory, upon a shooting-trip
to the Rockies; therefore we took with us three Win-
chesters. Having armed the Soudanese with the Mann-
licher repeating rifles, we decided to equip ourselves with
these also, in the hope that they might prove useful as
sporting rifles; though, because of the size of the bullet,
we had little faith that they would prove successful.

All the bullets for the express rifles were hardened
with a certain proportion of tin, and we took with us
for use with the .577 express rifles 100 or more car-
tridges having a steel core surrounded with soft lead.

78 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

The latter was purely an experiment, and did not prove
a success; for upon impact the lead invariably left the
steel core, the light weight of which prevented a suff-
cient degree of penetration to prove effectual.

On the march, for the first year at least, | invariably
carried a Winchester —if on horseback, across my
saddle-bow; if on foot, across my shoulder. From
continued use, often under trying circumstances, I
came to have the greatest confidence in this weapon.
I had had my Winchesters sighted with the ordinary
express sight by Messrs. Holland & Holland; and it
is to this fact I in great measure attribute their accu-
racy when used on running game. The ordinary Win-
chester sight is very good when one has sufficient time
for taking aim, but with it I found great difficulty in
getting a bead upon an animal moving with rapidity
across the line of vision.

On this trip George invariably carried a Mannlicher,
and from constant use acquired as great confidence in
it as I in my Winchester. It is undoubtedly a fact |
that different rifles suit different men; but it is equally
true that any one can, by constant use, become accus-
tomed to a rifle of almost any pattern; so accustomed,
in fact, that he will think, after a time, that his choice
is the only weapon for him; and not only will he be
satisfied with it, but also, because perhaps of some
weakness in human nature, will become prejudiced
against all others.

It is impossible to lay down a fixed rule, and say
which rifle is the best for general use. There is such
a variety of weapons, that if one takes the slightest
pains, he can, by experiment, pitch upon the rifle which

111 TRAVELS [IN EASTERN AFRICA 79

best suits him; and having found it, my advice is for
him to stick to it, and not be moved from his position
by theorists. A rifle which, on a shooting-ground in
Europe and from a rest, will do marvellous work
against a steel target, may, and most probably will,
under the changed conditions of shooting in the field,
particularly when such field is the tropical climate of
Africa, prove a most treacherous object upon which to
place reliance. At least, this has been my experience.
Some military man has said: “It is not more the
power or accuracy of the gun than the man_ behind
the gun, which achieves satisfactory results.”

Lieutenant von Hohnel, in the early part of his
shooting experiences during this journey, used only
his express rifle. It was not until he almost by acci-
dent discovered the accuracy and power of the Mann-
licher rifle, that he came to have confidence in that
weapon. However, when once he had tried it, the
express rifle was laid aside.

During my stay in Africa I wrote a letter to the
London Freld, stating what satisfactory results we had
achieved with both Winchester and Mannlicher, and
expressing our preference for these weapons over the
express. This letter provoked a vigorous, and, in some
cases, highly amusing correspondence. One would
almost think that I had assailed the British Consti-
tution, so bitter were some writers against me; but
it was matter of extreme gratification to me, upon my
return to Europe, to learn that the very gun-makers
most ardent in their condemnation of my views, were
turning out as many small-bore rifles as their work-

shops could produce.

80 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

But one more word upon the subject of rifles and I
have done. There has always been a vast deal of talk
about ‘‘shock,” and not only of its value in stopping
the rush of large animals, such as elephants and rhi-
noceroses, but also of the means to adopt in order to
ensure this quality ina rifle. I am afraid that I must
frankly state that I am not an ardent believer in shock,
at least as produced by a weapon which one is capable
of carrying in one’s hands. Even the smallest bullet,
provided it is possessed of sufficient penetration when
directed against a nerve centre such as the brain or
spine, will produce the same shock as a cannon-ball.
But if the bullet does not strike a nerve centre, even
though a four-bore and propelled by fifteen drams_ of
powder, it will not give sufficient shock to either the
rhinoceros, which weighs about two tons, or the ele-
phant, which weighs in many cases five tons, to stun
or disable it.

To my mind, “shock” is a gun-maker’s phrase. A
man of average weight, at a shooting ground, upon
the discharge of an eight-bore, or even a .577 express,
having felt against his shoulder the recoil of one of
these heavily charged weapons, is in a fit frame of
mind to absorb with facility and credulity the theory
of shock, as expounded by the merchants desirous of
selling him an expensive express rifle.

In one word: As speed is the most necessary qual-
ity in a race-horse, so is accuracy the first requisite of
a rifle; provided that, when used against big game it
is possessed of sufficient penetrative quality. This
quality cannot be measured at a shooting ground by
a comparison of the size or depth of holes made in a

1 TRAVELS [VM EASTERN AFRICA

steel target by the impact of a bullet.
Happily, even the mightiest pachyderm
is not possessed of a steel hide; and if
the bullet of a .45/90 Winchester is suffi-
cient to break the leg of a rhinoceros, it
possesses sufficient penetration, at least
to my mind, for all practical purposes.

On December 5, Lieutenant von Hoéhnel
and I, with eighty men and ten donkeys,
left Hameye. We took all the Soudan-
ese and four Somali, and, in order that we
might travel as quickly as possible, we
took only a few loads of trading-goods
and ammunition. It is astonishing how
even a slight rest from the fatigues of
marching will throw one out of condition ;
and so for the first day we made but little
progress.

The rains had changed the appearance
of the desert so much, that it then ap-
peared almost a Paradise. What before
had been a desert, with a scant sprink-
ling of dried acacias, looking like the
skeletons of giant umbrellas, had now
become vividly green parachutes, every
leaf and twig of which gave forth a deli-
cious odour. Many little flowers peeped
up out of the sand,—one like a small
tiger lily, and others coloured white, blue,
and red. Butterflies were everywhere, and
from tree to tree stretched great spider-
webs. The desert was a desert no longer.

S
G

dQ NMVUd AOYOY AIOHM AI

82 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

Shortly after leaving Hameye, the topography of
the country underwent a distinct change. From the
coast thus far the road had been almost level; but
from this point onward it was marked with dried
watercourses and ridges covered with broken quartz
and gneiss. Although our feet suffered somewhat
from the change, it was a great relief to encounter
hills, however disagreeable their ascent, after having
marched for weeks over a monotonous plain.

Two days from Hameye we saw our first herd of
game. Ina small valley, I saw at one time zebra, oryx
beisa, walleri, and rhinoceros. They got our scent, how-
ever, and made off at top speed; so I did not halt the
caravan to give chase. Some of the hills of this portion
of the country are from 400 to 500 feet high, and it was
impossible to ride, as the acacias became too thick, and
stones in too great plenty. At this point the Tana
loses its almost majestic appearance, and becomes a
brawling trout stream. It is but 125 yards wide, and
its course is broken with many stones and rocks.

On the plain, one day, we passed an old native zeriba.
There must at one time have been 400 or 500 people in
it, and that less than a year before the time we saw it.
On the same day, Mohamadi, whom I had taken with
me, as I felt I could not trust him at Hameye, reported
that he saw ten elephants on a hill half a mile away;
but as he neglected to make this report until after we
reached camp in the evening, I did not go in search of
them.

Every few miles the Tana changed in appearance.
Now the rapids were at an end, and the river flowed
sedately through narrow valleys and rocky hills. The

III TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 83

hills on the right bank were bold and precipitous, of red
sandstone, flecked here and there with green vegetation.
The largest of these hills is called Saleh’s Hill, because
a few years before a Somali of that name was slain
there while raiding the natives. The country is now
deserted, and but for a few unoccupied kraals gives no
evidence of ever having been inhabited.

On December 9, four days from Hameye, upon rising
at camp just at sunrise, we saw from a small hill a long,
blue range of high hills stretching in the far distance
to the north. What could these be? Perhaps they
were the southern parts of the General Matthews range.
While I was gazing my fill, Karscho, my gun-bearer,
cried out: “Look, master; down there is a large moun-
tain. 1 think it is the Kenya.” -He-had seen this
mountain on the former journey with Lieutenant von
Hohnel. I seized my glasses, and unmistakably there
stood forth, free from clouds, the snow-peaked rival of
Kilimanjiro. I looked and looked; but while gazing, as
if jealous of my eye, clouds gathered one by one, and
piled themselves around the crest, until it was hidden
from sight. At last we were in sight of new country;
and my feelings were almost as joyous as those of
Moses, when he viewed the Promised Land. We knew
our route lay in the direction of that long range of
blue hills stretched far to the north of Kenya; and
beyond those we knew there lay a country as yet
untrodden by any white man. On the following day
we expected to reach the Mackenzie River; and
the thought that from that point onward our work
would be wholly original filled us with pleasurable
excitement.

84 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

I marched, as was my custom, at the head of the
caravan, and behind me came six of the Soudanese. I
had noticed, in the few experiences we had had with
game up to this time, that these people made the
worst possible shikaris. At the sight of meat in any
form, their eagerness to possess it deprived them of
all self-control; and they would burst into such loud
shouts of pleasure that the animal became alarmed,
and made off with all haste. Continued disappoint-
ments, instead of teaching them a little wisdom .and
the advantages of silence, only added to their enthusi-
asm upon the sight of game. On one occasion, when
we were very much in need of meat, the sight of a
water-buck within easy shooting range wrung from
them such a chorus of enthusiastic yells that I not
only missed the opportunity of getting meat, but finally
lost my temper, and taught them, one and all, that
at least one personal advantage would accrue from
their silence. Shortly after that little incident I saw
another water-buck, and the lesson they had _ just
received gave me an opportunity of shooting it. It
was standing too yards distant, broadside on, and I
shot it behind the shoulder. It started off at full
speed, and in a moment Karscho, my gun-bearer, was
after it like a sleuth-hound. When I came up to hin,
I found he had already gralloched a fine male. On
searching for my bullet, I found it had penetrated
the heart; but, notwithstanding this, the animal had
been able to run a distance of 100 yards. This will
convey an idea of the vitality of these antelopes.

We had now reached a part of the country where
the hills were steep, and difficult for the donkey to

Ill TRAVELS [N EASTERN AFRICA 85

climb. Consequently our progress was very slow. In
the thick bush we lost our donkey on this day. That
night we camped at a sandy stretch on the river bank.
The men were actually afraid to go for water, owing to
the number of hippopotamuses heard snorting near the
camp; yet we were unable to get a shot. During the
night rain fell, and the next day it poured in torrents.
Late in the afternoon of this day we reached the Mac-
kenzie River, about 500 yards from its junction with the
Tana. At this point the Mackenzie River is forty yards
wide, and not more than three and one-half feet deep.
Fortunately, the rain ceased before sunset, and we made
our camp on a pebble-covered rise.

On African expeditions the porters usually have but
little protection against the weather, unless the country
is sufficiently grassy to permit them to make their huts.
If camp is pitched in a desert, on sandy or stony soil,
they cover themselves with about four yards of Amer-
ican sheeting, rigged in the shape of a little A tent.
This affords some protection against the weather, and
in fact seems sufficient for these hardy people.

The next day, Sunday, December 11, I recalled that
it was six months since I left London, and I was filled
with satisfaction by the thought that at last, after some
trouble and difficulty, we were on the border of a hith-
erto unexplored country.

While encamped on the banks of the Mackenzie we
had some excellent hippopotamus shooting. At one
point along the bank of the river the bank rose to the
height of forty feet above the stream, and formed a pre-
cipitous cliff. On looking over into the stream from
the top of this cliff, I discovered a pool formed by a

86 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP. III

bend in the river, in which I descried the heads of four
hippopotamuses. I shot one. He struggled to where
the stream was shallower, and stood there snorting;
another shot finished him. Lieutenant von Hohnel
and I then set to work to kill the remainder; and
after half an hour we had six stretched on the bank.
The men were set to work cutting up the meat. Mean-
while, one of the animals which I had shot, but which
was not yet dead, rushed along the shore, and stood not
more than twenty paces from my terrified men. Blood
was streaming from his wounds, and he snorted with
fury. My men seemed terribly frightened, and made
off in every direction. Another shot, in the region of
the heart, finished him.

After considerable experience with hippopotamuses I
have come to the conclusion that almost the smallest
weapon is sufficient to reach the brain; this, however,
being very small, accurate shooting is necessary. The
best shot is in the ear. On many occasions I found the
cartridge of the carbine carried by the porters, the cali-
bre of which is .38, was amply sufficient to kill these ani-
mals. A hippopotamus, if unaccustomed to being shot
at, will expose his head for an indefinite period of time,
and even permit one to take several shots at him; so
it is not a difficult matter to kill him. But should the
river in which they are be deep, as is often the case
in the Tana, and the current strong, it is very diff-
cult to get them after they are killed. In fact, I am
sorry to state, we lost a great many by the force of
the stream. On other occasions the slain hippopotamus
was undoubtedly held down beneath the surface by
his companions; for what reason, I am ignorant.

YFIATY AIZNAMOVIN AHL NO INNH SANVLOdOdd1H

ig
\'
(,

N

CHAP. III TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 89

All the members of my present caravan with the ex-
ception of the Somali ate hippopotamus meat. Accord-
ing to the Mohammedan religion, at least as interpreted
by the Arabs at Zanzibar and the Somali, there are cer-
tain beasts which it is unlawful for good Mohammedans
to eat. I am not sure whether they are the same as
those mentioned in the Mosaic Law, but, as far as I
could learn, they are as follows: elephant, hippopota-
mus, rhinoceros, horse, donkey, zebra, monkey, hawk,
vulture, and any beast of prey, such as the hyena, jackal,
or hon. The more devout of the followers of the faith
conform to this command; but under the stress of hun-
ger religion is often lost sight of, and all the men of a
trading caravan, composed of Arabs and their slaves,
have been known to subsist upon their own donkeys for
weeks at a time. Although the Soudanese were pro-
fessed Mahometans, I have yet to see them hesitate
for a moment between religious scruples and the attrac-
tions of a hearty meal; for they love fat, and the meat
of a hippopotamus is as much covered in adipose tissue
as that of a hog.

We set all our men to work cutting the meat off into
long strips. We then built platforms of small sticks,
about three feet in height, upon which we placed the
strips and then beneath them started a roaring fire. As
the sticks were green, the platforms did not burn; and
after the meat had been scorched and smoked for three
hours it was thoroughly dried, and even in that hot
climate would keep in good condition for several days.

The quantity of this meat a porter is able to consume
seems incredible. On the road, these men ordinarily
eat but once a day, their hunger being satisfied only at

go THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

night at the end of the march. They are divided into
groups of from four to eight men. When camp is made,
these groups throw together their store into a common
stock, and appoint one of their number as cook; the
others gather twigs to make the fire. After all prepara-
tions have been made, they surround the pot, and take
turns at dipping their hands into its contents until all is
finished. But in a game country each man will carry
with him as much meat as is allowed him. While on
the march, from morning until night, they were busy
devouring the flesh they had with them. At home, in
Zanzibar, these people are accustomed to a fish and
grain diet. Consequently, upon their entering into a
game country and eating an unlimited quantity of meat,
dysentery soon breaks out among them. We found
great difficulty in checking the ravages of this ailment,
but at length managed to devise a cure which proved
effectual in almost every case. I very much doubt
whether this cure would meet with the approbation
of the medical profession; but, nevertheless, for the
porters it proved of great service. When one of the
men complained of pains in the abdomen, we at once
gave him a strong purgative of castor oil, if we had it

”
’

in stock; if not, three or four “ Livingston rousers,” or
several vegetable laxatives. Two hours later, we gave
him twenty-five grains of ipecac and five grains of
opium, pulverized and mixed with five drams of water.
This dose we repeated every two hours, and I know
of no case in which it proved ineffectual. However, it
was not until after months of experiment that we
discovered this cure; and in the meantime we had the

misfortune to lose many of our best men from dysentery.

III TRAVELS [IN EASTERN AFRICA gl

We had decided to follow the Mackenzie, in the hope
that it would lead us to Lake Lorian and the Rendile;

therefore, after waiting one day for the drying of the
meat, we set out, and pushed our way along the left
bank of this river. The route lay over rough, rocky
soil, covered to an irritating degree with acacias. In
order that we might be able to march as lightly as
possible, we had taken for private consumption only
a few luxuries. We depended upon two loads for the
sustenance of the Europeans. These contained dried
beans and rice. On coming into camp after our first
day’s march along the Mackenzie, what was our dis-
gust to find that the two men carrying these loads
had disappeared! We searched for them in vain; for,
owing to the rocky soil, tracking them was impossible.
From that time on we had to face the journey with
the prospect of living upon the same food as the
porters; namely, dried beans of the previous year’s
growth and Indian corn of the same age. Thankful,
indeed, were we that we had with us salt, pepper,
and one bottle of Worcestershire sauce. When the
latter would get low, we refilled the bottle with water;
and by lively play of the imagination taught ourselves
that the pungency of its flavour rather increased than
diminished, as time went by, and water went in.

As we ascended the Mackenzie, the stream became
smaller and smaller, and after two days’ march one could
almost leap across it. The water was clear as crystal,
and deliciously cool. Owing to the dense bush through
which we marched we could get but few shots at
game, although at this point the country was undoubt-
edly filled with animals of all sorts. Now, for the first

92 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP. III

time since the expedition started, we came upon amor-
phous, volcanic rocks; and as the sun was setting we
got a magnificent view of the range of mountains we
had seen some days before. These mountains were
now but fifteen miles to the westward, and upon their
slopes we could clearly distinguish the smoke of many
fires. What people inhabited them we had no infor-
mation upon which to base a guess. It was at this
time evident to our minds that, unless Lake Lorian
lay between us and these mountains, the Mackenzie
River. could. not derive its source from “t.. - The
country was much more open, and upon the march
our eyes were continually greeted with herds of game,
—walleri, grantii, zebra, water-buck, and rhinoceros.

On this day’s march I killed a fine rhinoceros. He
was standing in the open, apparently asleep, and per-
mitted me to approach him within too yards. One
shot in the region of the heart caused him to spin
around rapidly, as on a pivot, and then drop dead in
his tracks. My men were delighted with this their
first rhinoceros of the journey. The Soudanese im-
mediately indulged in a violent discussion respecting
the relative merits of rhinoceros and hippopotamus
meats. Several of their number had determined to
secure the heart, which they considered a tid-bit. This
oneness of desire soon led to a difference of opinion,
and in a few moments they were hard at it, fighting
like hungry hyenas. They were soon quieted, how-
ever, and the innocent cause of all this trouble was
removed by my presentation of the heart to Hamidi,
the headman of the Zanzibar.

While the men were engaged in cutting up the rhi-

YAATY AIZNAMOVIY AHL NO LNOH SAWVLOdOdd!1H

7 oh

y >

CHAP. II TRAVELS [N EASTERN AFRICA 95

noceros I took my field-glasses and swept the surround-
ing country. Ata point about 600 yards distant I saw
what I supposed to be a black-and-white ox, standing
behind some rocks. After examination, Lieutenant
von Hohnel concluded that what we saw was two
native women. We both came to the conclusion that,
whether cattle or women, it was a happy sign that
natives were in the vicinity. I moved off silently
in that direction; when my ox and Lieutenant von
Hohnel’s native women, upon close inspection, proved
to be four marabout storks. These stately birds were
nearly four feet in height, and on the plain (oddly
enough) the greater the distance from which they
were viewed, the larger they seemed to be.

After the rhinoceros meat was cut up and divided
among the men, we set out on our journey. Soon the
bush closed around us again, and we were forced labo-
riously to cut our way through it. At length, about
3 p.M., the aspect of the country changed as though by
magic. Before us, stretching to the foot of the moun-
tains, lay a beautiful grassy plain, thousands of acres in
extent, and marked here and there by strips of green
foliage, outlining the course of streams tributary to the
Mackenzie. Scattered over the plain were groves of
tall and graceful dhum palms, and clumps of a well-
rounded, close-growing bush, with glazed leaves similar
in appearance to the holly. It resembled a vast park.
My men gave forth a cheer upon realizing that the hard
work incident to forcing passage through the thick bush
was at an end, at least for a time, and that easy march-
ing lay before them. However, the way was not so
smooth as it at first appeared to the eye, for beneath

96 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

the tall grass the soil was strewn with large and irregu-
larly shaped blocks of lava, which tripped the feet at
nearly every step. At many places on this plain herds
of game were quietly feeding, and within view I counted
six rhinoceroses. We pressed onward and made camp
by the side of a little stream filled with clear water.
After pitching camp I went for a stroll, and shot a
rhinoceros and a grantiil.

The flesh of the East African antelope is, with the
exception of the water-buck, excellent food The sad-
dle of an oryx beisa or grantii and the brisket of the
eland form, to my mind at least, as tempting morsels
as any procurable in civilization.

Another day’s march over this plain, and we reached
a cone about 300 feet high, within two miles of the foot-
hills of the mountain range. On this day’s march the
caravan was twice charged by rhinoceroses. The first
adventure occurred in the early morning, just after sun-
rise. I was mounted upon my horse, and Karscho, my
gun-bearer, was walking at my side, carrying my .577;
across my saddle-bow lay my Winchester. Suddenly,
from the grass on our right, which was about three feet
in height, and at a distance of not more than fifteen
yards, rose a rhinoceros, with an angry snort. After a
moment’s hesitation he rushed straight at us; I raised
my Winchester, cocked, and pulled the trigger; it was
empty. I threw it aside, seized the .577 from Karscho,
cocked, and pulled both triggers, only to find, much to
my disgust and, I may admit, alarm, that it also was
unloaded. All this took time, and the rhinoceros was
almost upon us, before I was able to get my pony into
a canter and make off in a direction at right angles to

oul TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 97

the line of charge of the beast. Karscho, unarmed and
motionless, now became the goal of the rhinoceros. 1
was unable to assist him, and looking over my shoulder
I every moment expected to see him gored. My cara-
van was 300 yards in the rear, and behind the crest of
a small hill. As the rhinoceros approached Karscho,
he prepared for a spring, and, just as it was upon him,
he leaped with great agility to one side; and just in
time, for the nose of the animal (luckily not his horn)
struck him a sharp blow on the elbow and knocked him
to the ground. Satisfied with this little diversion, the
rhinoceros passed on. I felt very thankful for this
escape, and its teachings were very useful; for from
that time I always examined my rifles before I left camp
in the morning, to see whether or not they were loaded.
The carelessness of even the best of these natives is
proverbial; so in East Africa it is necessary to keep
a supervising eye on the smallest detail entrusted to
native hands.

The other charge was less exciting. My caravan was
drawn out into a long, straggling line, marching through
the open, when a female rhinoceros with a young one at
her heels dashed toward the caravan at right angles to
our line of march. The men in the forward part of the
caravan rushed forward, and those in the rear dropped
behind; thus making an opening, through which the
mother and her interesting child dashed harmlessly.

As before stated, our camp was pitched in the neigh-
bourhood of a small hill, which Lieutenant von Hohnel
and I climbed, and from its top surveyed the surround-
ing country. To the westward rose mountains, their
tops covered here and there with thick forests. Between

H

98 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

these forests were large open spaces, upon which I
counted fifty fires. To the northward there stretched
what appeared to be an endless plain, broken in one or
two places by cone-shaped hills. This plain gleamed
white and barren as the Sahara, and shimmered in the
light of the setting sun. We were puzzled to conclude
what natives inhabited these mountains. Dr. Peters,
writing of his journey up the Tana, had spoken of a
range of mountains lying to the north; but he had not
reached them. With our minds filled with thoughts
of the Rendile, we hoped, as we could distinguish no
plantations, though using our glasses, that the natives
might prove to be the tribe of which we were in search.
That night we made our first zeriba, which we con-
structed in circular form. Asa rule, a zeriba is built of
thorns, and forms a very good means of defence, either
against wild beasts or savage men; but as at this place
there were no thorns, we were forced to satisfy ourselves
with a hedge, which, though formidable in appearance,
would prove of little service in case of an attack.
The following morning, December 17, Lieutenant
von Hodhnel and I, with forty-eight men, set out to
ascend the mountain, for the purpose of reconnoitring.
For three hours we marched through grass tall as a
man and thick as one’s little finger. The sharp edges
of the lava blocks under foot made walking painful,
and we were not displeased when at length we reached
a thick forest, which crossed our path. I halted the
party, sent four men ahead to reconnoitre, and awaited
their return near the edge of the forest. We were
all bathed in perspiration from the exertions of the
climb, for the rise from the plain had been quite steep.

ina TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 99

A cool breeze was blowing, and soon to my intense
disgust I felt a chill creeping over me.

In Africa a chill invariably foretells fever, and I knew
that ere the sun set I should be prostrated; but it would
not have done to turn back. My men, unaccustomed to

"P)

| alle os ; if ps
cae :
i ee

‘\ \N SN a

: < \ NY \\ WN ~~
\ < yy AW \
\

\ \\

| WY
We a
Ian “ ( \\

ey Sy

ACACIA AND THORN SCRUB

travel in unknown countries with so small a command
as we had (forty-eight men), appeared to be anything but
comfortable at the prospect of meeting natives; and had
I at this juncture turned back, their superstitious minds
would have interpreted it as an ill omen.

In half an hour my scouts returned and reported that
they had found plantations near by in the forest; and

100 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

that they had heard the voices of men, and sounds as of
people at work. We set out at once, and shortly after
entering the forest came upon a narrow foot-path. The
forest was extremely thick, and consisted of baobab and
other mighty trunked trees, from whose branches de-
pended myriad vines and creepers. The morning sun
had difficulty in penetrating the canopy overhead, and
extreme caution was necessary to pick one’s way noise-
lessly. In less than an hour I heard voices, and in a
moment, through the intervening growth, I descried a
little clearing in the forest, where some natives were
at work. There were four men and five women; the
women appeared to be young—the men, one and all,
had the shrunken appearance of age.

The women were quite naked, with the exception
of a string about the waist, from which hung a short
skirt composed of green banana leaves. The men
were absolutely unclothed. They were of medium
stature, black in colour, and their heads were shaven.
For some time I watched them at their work. They
were using axes with iron heads not broader than the
blade of a carving-knife. This head was run through
a hole cut in a stick, in appearance far too heavy to
serve as a handle for such small implements. These
they used in cutting away the undergrowth. Here
and there in the clearing lay prostrate the trunks of
tall trees, and I marvelled at the patience of these
people; for the cutting down of such trees with the
small axes they used must have been the work of weeks.

From my experience with the natives I knew that as
soon as my presence became known to these people, they
would flee and alarm their tribe; our progress into the

UI TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA IOI

country would probably be interrupted by their warriors,
and perhaps it would be necessary to fight. This, above
all things, I desired to avoid, and so took the only steps
possible to such an end. With four of my men I crept
noiselessly forward, and then with a sudden rush we
dashed upon the natives, and in a trice we had two of
the old men bound. The women, as appears to be
the custom in Africa (and, I may add, elsewhere) looked
on with more interest than surprise at our approach.
I suppose this is to be accounted for by the fact that
from infancy they are brought up with the expectation
of being, at one time or another during their lives,
captured by some neighbouring tribe; and as they are
possessed of no very strong love of home, they look
forward, certainly with indifference, and perhaps with
pleasurable expectation, to a change of life and scene.
The men, however, acted in a different manner. The
two we had seized were struck dumb, while the three
we had left untouched made off with incredible speed,
making the forests ring with their wild shouts.

Our purpose in seizing the two men was to hold
them as hostages for the good behaviour of the tribe;
knowing it was unlikely we should be attacked as long
as they were bound and walking at the front of our
caravan. In a few moments the rest of my men came
up, and calling one of my Masai interpreters, I set him
to questioning our captives. They understood but a
few words of Masai, but when my interpreter (Mwinyi
Hadji) began speaking to them in Kikuyu, their faces
showed signs of intelligence, and they replied in a
dialect of that tongue. Kikuyu is the generic name
of the tribes inhabiting the slopes of Mount Kenya.

102 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

Not wishing to be surprised by the natives while in
the forest, I told my hostages to lead us at once to the
villages, and assured them that we would do them no
harm, and that we had seized them simply for the pur-
pose of having them to guide us to their people; for
which service, if satisfactorily performed, they would
receive a reward. They received these words with dull
indifference, and it required considerable persuasion on
our part to induce them to lead us onward. Hardly
had we gotten under way ere loud cries were heard,
and some fifty warriors, armed with spears, bows, and
arrows, appeared. Those who carried spears bore large,
painted oval shields on their arms, and many of them
had headdresses of monkey skins, or ostrich feathers
stuck in their hair. They approached until they reached
a point about fifty yards from us; then halted, and eyed
us with curiosity and apprehension. They ceased their
shouting, and I took advantage of the silence (well
knowing it would be of short duration) to advance
toward them with a branch in my hand,—a sign of
peace throughout all East Africa,—and through my
interpreter endeavoured to persuade them of our peace-
able intentions, and induce them to lead us to their
villages. My efforts met with no success; and begin-
ning to feel feverish from the effects of the chill I had
received a short time before, I decided there was no
time for useless parley; so by a quick flank movement
we managed to seize four of the burliest warriors.
These we disarmed and promptly bound; the rest fled
hastily in every direction. I placed these four hostages
in the rear of the caravan, and then instructed the old
men I had bound in front to lead the way.

11 TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 103

Throughout my parley with the warriors the old men
had shouted continuously to their younger brethren not
to make an attack, and that we were dashoméa (traders).
After we had seized and bound the four warriors, the
former assured us of their willingness to lead the way
to their village. On the march hundreds of natives
appeared and threatened us at every turn; but see-
ing their friends both in the front and rear of our
party, they did not dare let fly their poisoned arrows,
through fear of hitting one of them.

After an hour’s march we reached the edge of the
forest. Following our guides, we pressed westward
across a grassy valley dotted with small huts similar in
appearance to those built by the Pokomo, to a knoll
about three miles away. Upon reaching this I was
quite prostrated by fever, and was forced to lie down.
My fever was so strong that I had but dim conscious-
ness of what was going on around me. Lieutenant von
Hohnel thereupon took charge of affairs, and, having
had experience with the Kikuyu on his former journey,
endeavoured to induce the natives to bring a sheep and
make friends.

Friendship among these tribes is always sealed by the
slaughter of a sheep or goat. Owing to the fact that
these people spoke a language similar, it is true, to the
Kikuyu, but yet differing from it in many ways, my
interpreter had much difficulty in making himself under-
stood, and this difficulty was increased by the presence
of about 400 warriors, who surrounded us on all sides,
and continued to shout defiance and shake their spears
in a threatening manner. They were apparently en-
deavouring to work themselves up to such a degree of

104 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

frenzy, that, throwing caution to the winds, they would
have courage or recklessness sufficient to attack us.

Upon setting out in the morning I had served out
twenty-five rounds of ammunition to each man; so that
even with my small force, should my men have profited
in the least by the gun practice I had given them at the
coast, we felt quite able to hold our own against even
the vastly superior force of the natives. But the behay-
iour of my men did not inspire me with great confidence.
We had passed several herds of goats on the way from
the forest, and this had excited the cupidity of the Sou-
danese to such an extent that they appeared warlike
enough, and only too desirous of a scrimmage. On the
other hand, the Zanzibari stood around in a lethargic
manner, their faces wearing expressions of dull appre-
hension and helpless terror—seemingly stunned by
the presence of so many warriors and their threaten-
ing shouts.

In the midst of this excitement there appeared a man
about thirty-six years old, wearing a short cloak of goat’s
skin over his shoulders, and bearing a long staff in his
right hand. He spoke contemptuously to the natives
about him, and then addressed Lieutenant von Hohnel
in excellent Swahili. There was no time for parley;
natives were gathering from all sides, and Lieutenant
von Hohnel knew that soon, gathering courage from
overwhelming numbers, the natives would attack us.
So without hesitation he persuaded the new-comer to
accompany us to our camp, which he somewhat unwill-
ingly agreed to do. We thereupon released the hos-
tages, and gave each a small present. This reward filled
them with surprise, but they evinced little gratitude.

II TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 105

On the contrary, they immediately joined their brethren,
and contributed their quota to the chorus of deafening
shouts and yells.

Making a hammock of a pole and the cotton sheet of
one of the men, I was placed in it (by this time almost
unconscious), and we started back toward our camp.
The savages followed in our rear, hurling defiance, but
left us upon our entrance into the forest. After five
hours’ marching we reached camp, and I was at once
put to bed.

The people upon the mountains we learned were
called Embe. Judging from the appearance of their
clearings in the forest and their plantations, they are
industrious and have a fair knowledge of agriculture.
They grow beans, cassava, bananas, a little millet, and
Indian corn. We saw no large cattle, but many flocks
of sheep and goats. The portion of the range to which
we paid this brief visit seemed very thickly inhabited.

For the following three days I suffered continually
from fever—much of the time being unconscious. Dur-
ing these three days Lieutenant von Hohnel was not
idle. Accompanied by our newly found guide, he paid
a visit to an extinct crater called Kora, distant ten miles
to the north of our camp, from the summit of which he
got a good view of the country along which our route
for a few succeeding days would lie.

Our guide’s name was Motio. His was one of the
most original and curious characters I have ever met
with among the natives. Although he remained with
us nearly a year, we could never get a clear story of
his past. His teeth were filed to a point, and this fact,
together with some of his statements, led us to believe

106 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

he had been born a Mkamba, a people inhabiting the
country stretching from the Tana almost to Mombasa.
He said he had visited the coast upon two occasions,
where he had acquired his knowledge of Swahili. Most
of his life, however, had been spent on the mountains,
where he cultivated a small plantation. At one time
he had been married, but for some reason or other his
wife had left him, and he seemed to have no particular
attachment to his home.

During his stay with us he associated but little with
the porters, whom he appeared to look down upon as
a lower order of beings.- The porters returned this feel-
ing with interest, their feeling being caused not only
by his treatment of them, but also by the fact that
he was afflicted with a curious skin disease. His black
body was covered here and there with large yellow
spots, and the skin of his hands and feet was cracked
in many places. Our men said he was a leper, and
this may have been the case; but, leper or not (cer-
tainly none of our men, as far as I know, suffered
any ill effects from his close contact with them), he
proved of the greatest assistance to us on many occa-
sions. Throughout his stay with our caravan he showed
that he had cast his lot with ours, and was ever ready
to place at our disposal whatever knowledge he pos-
sessed concerning the countries and peoples through
which we passed.

From him we learned that the highest peak of the
mountain range was called Jombeni; so we gave this
name to the entire range. He said that it was inhabited
by many tribes, which, although they remained distinct
from one another, spoke very much the same dialect.

Ill TRAVELS [VN EASTERN AFRICA 107

He also told us that a river, called Guaso Nyiro, was
distant from our camp three days’ journey. This river
has its source on the western slopes of Mount Kenya,
and flows thence in an easterly direction. It was re-
ported by him to empty into Lake Lorian. He had
never visited this lake, but had followed the river for
some distance in a direction toward it.

Motio told us that he had seen the Rendile on several
occasions, when they had come to trade with the natives
on the mountains, and that he understood they were
to be found somewhere in the neighbourhood of this
lake. This was good news to us, and our hopes rose
high; we really were on the right trail to find these
people.

It is astonishing how suddenly the African fever
strikes one down; but it is equally surprising how
quickly a fairly vigorous constitution will throw it off,
and recover from its ill effects. On the fourth day after
my visit to the mountain I was on my feet again.

During my illness Lieutenant von Hohnel had shot
three rhinoceroses and several antelopes. It was while
shooting the rhinoceroses that he discovered the won-
derful efficiency of the Mannlicher rifle upon this species
of game. On this occasion, expecting to find only ante-
lope, he had taken with him his .500 express, and had
exhausted all his ammunition in killing three of these
animals. While returning to camp, he came suddenly
upon a rhinoceros standing broadside on, at a distance
of 150 yards. He took the Mannlicher from his gun-
bearer, and fired at the animal’s body. It at once
dropped; and what was his surprise at that instant to
see another rhinoceros, which had apparently been

108 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

standing exactly behind the one he had first seen, and
hence was invisible to him, run forward a few paces,
and then fall to the ground dead. Incredible though
it may seem, one Mannlicher bullet passed through the
body of one animal, and penetrated sufficiently into the
body of the other to kill it also.

Owing to our ignorance of the duration of our journey,
it became necessary for us to hoard our little store of
grain food; so that at such times as the camp was
plentifully supplied with meat we fed the men on that
alone. Although the Soudanese had upon first tasting
meat expressed their love of it, and their preference for
that form of diet above all others, a week of nothing but
animal food forced them to turn from it in disgust, and
longingly to eye our sacks of beans and corn. On the
day of my recovery they came to me in a body, and
frankly told me that they could no longer eat meat, but
wished to indulge, for a short time at least, in a purely
grain diet. I did not yield to their solicitations, how-
ever, and they, like the children they had on many pre-
vious occasions proved themselves to be, refused to eat
anything. They swore they would starve themselves
to death; but the next day they were found cheerfully
accepting with evident pleasure large hunks of rhinoc-
eros meat.

Motio told us that the journey from this point to the
Guaso Nyiro led through an almost waterless desert;
that perhaps we should find one small water-hole, and
that he also knew of one pool of alkali water, which
at some periods of the year was drinkable. While in
Europe we had purchased a tin water-bottle, capable of
holding three litres, for every member of our caravan;

Ill TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 109

and as an extra precaution had procured, while at Aden,
thirty goat-skin water-bags, each capable of holding two
gallons. We had on the present trip but twelve of
these goat-skin water-bags, as our means of transport
would not permit taking a greater number. These
water-bags do very well if carefully handled, but after
being carried for a few days the water they contain
assumes a most disagreeable flavour.

PF lh
i / ae 239
4 yay Dis)

Vee

IF).

Rss

tj j WY
LEE ee Mg NYY YY

BAOBAB TREE

We filled these water-bags, and on December 22
set out upon our journey. We made our camp two
miles to the northwest of Kora crater, beneath a giant
baobab, the girth of which was forty-eight feet. We
were fortunate enough to find near this a little pool of
stagnant water left by the rains. The mountain range
proper ends at Kora, but for some miles to the north
there are a number of craters of different sizes, mostly

110 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

irregular in outline and broken down on the southerly
side. After the rains they were, one and all, covered
with green vegetation. Due north, as far as I could
see, stretched a trackless desert, very arid and forbid-
ding in aspect.

Upon our arrival at this camp Lieutenant von
Hohnel shot a male rhinoceros. While Karscho was
engaged in getting out the liver for our table, he looked
up and saw a female rhinoceros with a young one stand-
ing within ten feet of him, and looking as if they were
about to charge him and revenge the death of their rela-
tive. He had barely time to make off in safety (with
the liver), when the rhinoceroses appeared to alter their
minds, and went off at a slow canter, soon disappearing.

The nights at this time were deliciously cool, but
the heat of the day was terrific. The following morn-
ing we attempted to start s:- ly after five, but upon
awakening we found the camp enshrouded in a thick,
cold mist. This prevented our getting under way until
some minutes after six. A few moments’ march, and
the fog had shut out all trace of our camp, as if Nature
sought in this way to warn us to make up our minds that
we were not to see this place again. After a few hours’
marching we crossed a trail running to the eastward
from the mountain range. Motio said it was the trail
of a large band of Rendile, who visited the Embea
few years ago. At noon we crossed the highest point
in our route over the slopes, about 3500 feet above sea-
level. We were then shut in on all sides by steep,
grass-dressed hills of volcanic origin; no sight of the
desert gave variety to the view; all was forbidding,
confining, threatening.

III TRAVELS [IN EASTERN AFRICA III

Marching on, we came to a small water-hole, and while
the men filled their water-bottles, I went forward alone
into a great opening between many hills. There I saw
about 400 yards away, what I took to be a small herd of
oryx beisa. I raised my rifle to my shoulder, and fired
into the midst of the herd; one sprang into the air, and
then fell. Upon reaching it, I found I had shot a beau-
tifully horned female. The herd made off, I after it.
Mounting a slight rise, I saw them standing about 350
paces distant, all but one facing me. This one immedi-
ately fell to my Winchester. Upon examination, I found
the bullet had broken the animal’s shoulder and gone
through its body diagonally, until checked by the thick
skin on the animal’s further loin. The skin of the
oryx beisa is very thick; so thick, in fact, that it is
preferred by the Somali above all others for the pur-
pose of making shields.

We rested here for three hours, while the men cut
up the meat and we had luncheon. After luncheon
Lieutenant von Hdéhnel climbed a hill to take bear-
ings, and I was sitting in a camp-chair, smoking a
pipe, when my men shouted, “Nyama” (game). I
called for my Winchester, and, just as I got it, a herd
of grantii ran past in single file, about 150 yards away.
Without leaving my chair, I took aim at a point three
feet in front of the shoulder of the leading animal, and
had the good fortune to bring it down, shooting it
through both hips.

The scenery at this camping-place was grand. There
were but two openings between the high hills, and these
permitted a view, far away across the desert, of the south-
ern peaks of the General Matthews range, blue in the

112 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

distance. We knew that at some point this side
of the range the Guaso Nyiro flowed. The spot where
we lunched brought to my mind the following lines
from Browning’s poem, Childe Roland:

¢
The hills like giants at a hunting lay,
Chin upon hand, to see the game at bay.

From this point our route lay downhill and desert-
wards. We found an excellent and well-beaten trail.
This trail was made by the mountain people, who use
it on their way to a crater distant six miles. It is
called Ngombe (ox), from a fancied resemblance
between its outline and that animal. In this crater
there is a large deposit of sulphate of magnesium,
which is used by the natives in lieu of salt; and it is
much prized by them as a delicacy. Along the trail
I picked up a native bag made of leather, which
Motio said had been carried by a friend of his, who
had gone in search of salt two weeks before. On his
return journey he had been attacked by a lion, left by
his friends, and, in consequence, eaten. I was glad
the king of beasts was not a vegetarian, for in the bag
were two yams, which proved a welcome addition to
our beans and meat.

We reached Ngome at five o’clock, and pitched camp
half-way up the side of the crater. Near our camp
I noticed that the side of the mountain was rent apart.
Entering this opening, I pursued my way for some
distance between high and jagged walls, when I found
the gulch narrowed until it resembled the gateway of
some ruined medizval castle. Beyond the gateway it
again widened, and my eyes were resting upon a vast

III TRAVELS [N EASTERN AFRICA 113

amphitheatre at my feet. It is about 500 feet deep,
and about its top runs a rim of rugged rocks, from
which steep, grass-covered sides descend to the bottom
far below. In the centre of this hollow, cup-like bot-
tom there was what appeared to be a large rectangular
slab of marble broken at one end. From a distance it
bore a striking resemblance to such a stone as is placed
on the top of a vault, suggesting the idea that it was
the last resting-place of some giant king. This, upon
closer examination, proved to be a deposit of sulphate of
magnesium, and is what the natives prized as salt. Near
this deposit were found pools of water, but their contents
were undrinkable, and so my men went to bed thirsty.

The following day we served out the water we had
carried in the water-bags. It was sufficient to give
each man about one quart; and this, I was careful to
tell them, must suffice until the Guaso Nyiro was
reached. Motio assured us that we should undoubt-
edly reach the river before dark, but a careful examina-
tion of the desert before us discovered not the slightest
sign of tree or bush. When these are absent from the
landscape in Africa, one has a right to be sceptical of
the presence of water. The following day was Christ-
mas, and the only gift we one and all prayed for on
that occasion was the sight of a rushing river.

Upon leaving the crater, although the native path
had come to an end, the ground under foot was not
very bad. The hilly region was now behind us, and
we faced a plain covered with stunted, sun-dried grass.
Here and there were scattered awkward bits of lava,
which tripped unwary feet. We met several herds of
antelope and zebra.

I

114 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

The severe marching of the preceding two days had
told upon my caravan, and I was often forced to halt
in order to allow the stragglers to catch up. On the
march I saw five rhinoceroses, two of which were very
white in colour, and at first both Lieutenant von Hoéhnel
and I took them for a new species; but closer inspec-
tion disclosed the fact that they had wallowed in white

4p
% a

ian My yall AN “
Jos: dl (i ae an ane \

DHUM PALM AND ACACIA

\ NY vs

ES

ay

clay; hence their odd appearance. I knocked over a
fine young male oryx, and we stopped for a few mo-
ments to cut up the meat. The men, who by this time
had finished every drop of their water, attempted to
quench their thirst by chewing bits of the raw meat.

From nov on, the piain descended visibly to the
northward, and keen eyes might detect the tops of
palm trees. At sight of these the men seemed to

IIL TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA IIs

become imbued with fresh vigour, and even the lame
and the halt stepped forward briskly to where they
knew they would find water. The ground here was
absolutely white with sulphate of magnesium, so bright
in the sunlight, indeed, that the eyes were pained by
the glare.

On our right there rose a cone to a height of 1500
feet, and to the southwest, in the far distance, we caught
a glimpse of the sloping sides of Mount Kenya. In the
rear towered the Jombeni Mountains; in front, and not
far to the west, rose high hills. We were on the border
of volcanic and aqueous formations, between which the
Guaso Nyiro flowed. At this point the river had
worn its bed deep below the level, so that our camp,
pitched upon the river bank, was sheltered from the hot
winds which blew across the desert. The river here
is 100 feet wide and not more than six feet deep, but
this depth is attained only in few places. Its current
is swift, and the course is frequently interrupted by
gneiss rocks, which in some spots are so large and
numerous as to almost dam the river’s flow. My de-
light upon reaching this river was truly great, but it
was surpassed by the joy of Lieutenant von Hdohnel.
He, on his former journey, had been the first to dis-
cover the source of the Guaso Nyiro, and had followed
it to within about seventy-five miles of our present
camp.

Up to the time of our journey it had been asserted
that the Guaso Nyiro emptied into the Tana. This
we discovered not to be the case. So it appears there
are at least three separate river systems having their
sources at Mount Kenya, viz.: the Sabaki, the Tana,

116 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP. III

and the Guaso Nyiro. These, with their affluents, are
sufficient to drain the water of the melting snow at the
top of this mountain.

We celebrated our arrival at the river by opening
one of our two remaining pints of champagne. Our
dinner on that day consisted of the German army soup,
fish from the river, the liver of an oryx, steaks from the
same animal, beans, biscuit, and jam, followed by a cup
ot coffee.

CHAPTER IV

We honoured Christmas Day by making it a day of
rest; and although our surroundings were not such as
are usually associated with this day, we at least were
perfectly satisfied with them, and received what Provi-
dence had given us with a thankful spirit. The rushing
river assisted our minds in reverting to home and our
people; and both Lieutenant von Hohnel and I uttered
the hope that they were as contented and joyful on this
day as we.

Lieutenant von Hohnel spent a portion of the day in
working upon his map; while I passed an hour or two
in questioning Motio about the neighbouring countries
and peoples. He said that, at one time, the upper
reaches of the Tana and the banks of the Guaso Nyiro
had both been inhabited by a people called Mumoniot.
Those on the Tana had been destroyed by the raids of
the Wakamba, and those on the Guaso Nyiro had been
so harried by the inhabitants of the mountains on one
hand, and the Masai on the other, that all but a small
remnant had been destroyed; and not many years ago
this remnant had joined the people on the mountains,
and became amalgamated with them.

While strolling along the river in the afternoon, I
came across a small native bridge spanning the stream,
which at that point was not more than thirty feet wide,

I17

118 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

as it forced its way between rocky banks. This bridge
was made of withes and looked frail, but it was suff-
ciently strong, and afforded room for the passage of a
lightly laden native.

We had exhausted our store of meat at dinner the
night before, so that our Christmas feast consisted of
soup, fish, and beans.

The next day we made an early start, and pursued our
way along the bank of the river, which at this point ran
nearly due east. From what Motio told us, we hoped to
reach Lake Lorian in three days. As we advanced, the
current of the Guaso Nyiro became swifter, and flowed
so deeply below the surface of the surrounding country
as to form a cahon more than too feet deep and about
300 feet wide. The soil on our side of the stream
was composed of lava dust, strewn with innumerable
blocks of the same material. The other bank, however,
gleamed with mica, showing that the formation there
was gneiss.

Toward noon, just as I began to think of halting for
our mid-day meal, a dull, roaring sound reached my ears.
After going a half-mile further, the noise increasing all
the while, we reached a point where the plain fell to the
level of the river. There we found explanation of the
roaring sound. The Guaso Nyiro, meeting a wall of
black lava in its course, flows over it, and has a drop of
sixty feet. Even at the season of the year when we
visited it, and when the autumn rains had been very
slight, the falls presented an imposing appearance. The
wall of lava, being higher in the middle than at the sides,
divided the river into two streams. Below the falls these
two streams again met, and forced their way between

IV TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 119

two precipitous walls of black lava; foam was churned
and thrown high into the air, and the leaping, tumbling,
frothing stream had a really wild and savage aspect. This
place we named Chanler Falls. We pitched our camp
five miles below the falls, at which point the river again
peacefully wended its way between rows of tall palms.

Ky
i

We

WSN \ \;{i Nate emerge
(SEGRE RB
x < \ Mikes SS
SES,

ZENS
THAN

Ws

CHANLER FALLS

While the men were building a camp, I went in search
of meat. We were sorely in need of it; and as Lieu-
tenant von Hohnel had fallen and injured his knee so
badly as to incapacitate him for hunting, all prospect
of satisfying my hungry men centred in the presence
of game and the accuracy of my single rifle. I found
game plentiful, but the country was too open to get

within range of it. I walked three miles, led along by

120 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

a herd of oryx beisa, which would in the most tanta-
lizing manner remain standing until I could get within
500 yards from them, and then wheel in their tracks like
a regiment of cavalry, and charge briskly on. However,
they proved good guides, for they led me to a mass of
thick bush, where they disappeared; but shortly after
entering the bush, from a small rise, I saw at a distance
of 300 yards, two rhinoceroses. The soil at this point
was of a reddish colour, and from rolling in this the
rhinoceroses had assumed its tint. As I descended
from the rise, I lost sight of them, but proceeded cau-
tiously in the direction in which I had seen them. At
length I caught a glimpse of a reddish body in the bush,
not more than forty yards in front of me. I took careful
aim and fired at what I supposed to be a shoulder (I saw
but a portion of the beast’s body), and the animal fell.
The smoke of my shot had scarcely cleared away, before
crashing through the bush came another, and I had but
time to fire a snap-shot, owing to the close quarters.
The animal changed its gait and direction at once,
coming down from a gallop into a trot; and I followed
after it. In my eagerness I almost stumbled over the
rhinoceros I had first shot. He was far from dead,
having been hit not in the shoulder, but in the quarter.
Upon seeing me, he staggered to his feet, and with a
savage snort rushed at me. A lucky shot brought him
to the ground, dead. ‘This was a most fortunate circum-
stance, for my gun-bearer had allowed me to leave camp
with but three cartridges in my magazine, all of which by
this time I had fired; so that, had I failed to bring the
animal down, I should have been placed in a most
unpleasant predicament.

IV TRAVELS [N EASTERN AFRICA 121

I returned to camp, tired out with my day’s work, and
sent Karscho with some porters back to bring in the
meat. On the way they came across the second rhinoc-
eros, which Karscho found limping slowly along on
three legs, my snap-shot having broken one shoulder.
I had given Karscho my .577, for use in case he fell in
with dangerous game; and two shots from the rifle
despatched this my second rhinoceros of the day. The
meat of these two animals was sufficient for three days’
food for my men.

After passing Chanler Falls all mountains seemed to
be left in our rear, and the river flowed between dry
and arid deserts.

While in camp, Lieutenant von Hohnel and I spent
most of our time in conjecture as to the whereabouts
and size of Lake Lorian. When Lieutenant von Hohnel
was at Kismayu to purchase camels, he met a Somali,
who said he had visited this lake. This man told him
it was many days’ journey in length, but that in parts it
was so shallow that it was possible to drive cattle and
camels across it. He also said that the Rendile had
their home upon its shores. Motio added his assurance,
that from what he had heard the lake must be very
large; and that he had no doubt that the Rendile lived
in its neighbourhood. He said that none of the people
on the mountain ever had the courage to visit the Ren-
dile, but that in former times, when they had raided the
Mumoniot (who had inhabited the banks of the Guaso
Nyiro), they had often fallen in with small bands of
them. He said that they were a very warlike people,
and that invariably upon meeting them conflict had
ensued, in which the mountain people were generally

122 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

worsted. The Rendile, however, at least once a year,
sent trading parties to the Jombeni range. These
always consisted of aged men and women; for, had
young men been sent, they would have met with a hos-
tile reception from the mountain people. He also said
that the articles taken for barter by the Rendile con-
sisted of goats, sheep, and the partly tanned skins of
these animals. Motio’s wanderings along the Guaso
Nyiro had taken him but little farther than the point
we had by that time reached. He assured us, however,
that after one long day’s march to the eastward we
should reach a high plateau, and said he had been told
by his fellow-tribesmen that from the top of this plateau
the vast expanse of Lake Lorian could be seen. With
all this information at our disposal, the hopes of both
Lieutenant von Hohnel and myself rose to a high pitch,
and we felt that we were about to make a great geograph-
ical discovery.

As we advanced, the going seemed to become worse
and worse. The surface of the soil was almost paved
with sharp, jagged lava blocks, and our feet were fast
becoming swollen and: painful from continued march-
ing over such material. The desert on our side of the
river gleamed to such a degree that the eyes suffered in
consequence; and the only redeeming feature to be
found in the landscape was the narrow strip of verdure,
from which sprang palm trees and acacias, stretching
along and following the river.

The course of the Guaso Nyiro is ever-changing, and
the character of the soil through which it flows pre-
sents a great variety. At times the stream forces its
way between impeding rocks, while at others it winds

IV TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 123

smoothly and broadly over a shallow bed. Game was
fairly plentiful; yet, as we were pressing on in the hope
of reaching the lake, we rarely stopped while on the
march, but contented ourselves with supplying our
men with what game we could procure after camp
was reached.

For a few days the fish of the Guaso Nyiro proved a
welcome addition to our diet, but at last we were forced
to give them up. We had usually eaten them after
dark, from a table illumined by the flame of a single
candle; so that in judging of their quality we employed
but taste. One morning, however, a large and _ fine-
looking fish was put before us. Upon cutting it open,
we found, to our disgust, that its flesh was filled with
small worms. Needless to add, we discontinued eating
fish from that time.

All along the Guaso Nyiro, not only were the mos-
quitoes troublesome, but we suffered great annoyance
from flies. These were black in colour, shaped like the
ordinary house fly, but with heads of a bright carmine
colour. A bite from one of these insects was a disagree-
able matter; for they inserted the proboscis not so
much for the sake of securing food as to deposit and
hatch their offspring. A few days after the bite was
inflicted the flesh swelled considerably, and a little
later the part bitten would open, and disclose a well-
developed larva, with a black head, about the size of
its progenitor.

Up to this time we had lost but few of our donkeys;
and none of these, so far as we knew, had died on
account of fly-bites. Our horses, however, appeared to
be ailing, particularly Lieutenant von Hohnel’s, which,

124 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP. IV

being unable to bear any burden, was driven listlessly
along behind the caravan.

On the 29th we had reached a point where the coun-
try through which the Guaso Nyiro flowed was park-
like in appearance; groves of tall dhum palms were seen
extending 500 yards from the river bank, and here and
there were groups of magnificent acacias. The going
became delightfully smooth and easy. We seemed to
have reached the end of the lava flow from the Jomben1
range. In the branches of these trees innumerable
birds had their nests. Some of these birds have sweet
voices, the notes of one or two sounding purely liquid
to the ear. In shaded places, flowers like our morning-
glories peeped up from the soil, mostly of a pale purple
with red centres. Small herds of zebra and antelope
wandered about, or fed placidly beneath the trees. The
soil appeared to be extraordinarily rich, and with irri-
gation this portion of the country should yield large
crops of rice and millet. On this day I shot a beautiful
lesser koodoo, the only one we saw upon this journey.

On the following day’s march we came to a point
where the river made a sharp bend to the north. It
flowed eight miles in that direction, and then abruptly
turned to the east upon reaching the foot of a high
plateau. Motio told us that this plateau was called
Marisi Alugwa Zombo; and from its top we expected
to see Lake Lorian.

We cut across the plain to the eastern end of the
plateau, and reached it about half an hour before sun-
set. Near camp I shot a fine female oryx beisa and two
pallah. I also killed a fine female antelope, of what I
considered a previously unknown species. We took a

CANYON ABOVE CHANLER FALLS

CHAP. IV TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 127

photograph of its head and neck, which will convey an
idea of its peculiar appearance.

Just before sunset Lieutenant von Hohnel and I
crossed the river, and climbed the plateau. It rises to
a height of nearly 500 feet above the plain, with sides as
steep as the glacis of a fort, and covered with large
blocks of lava. After a difficult climb, we reached the
top, which we also found to be covered with these
jagged blocks of larva, between which, at intervals,
could be seen a stunted euphorbia, aloe, or cactus forc-
ing its way. The top of the plateau is almost level,
but there is a perceptible rise to the westward. The
sun was just setting as we reached the top, so that we
were not permitted to gaze for any time at the panorama
spread out before us. However, we could trace the
course of the Guaso Nyiro for twenty miles further,
between the plateau and the desert, which stretched
indefinitely to the westward. Fortunately, there was a
full moon shining as we descended, so that we were
able to reach camp without much difficulty. In this
portion of Africa, as is well known, there is no twilight,
and within half an hour after sunset the darkness of
night has covered all.

During this night we had a curious adventure.
About midnight Lieutenant von Hohnel woke me up
with a vigorous shake. I leaped to my feet and found
the whole camp in an uproar—the men all rushing to
and fro and shouting: “Zayart! Tayari!” (“Make
ready! Make ready!”)in terrified tones. In the moon-
light the trees cast weird shadows, and it was difficult
to make out at once what was going on in camp. Sud-
denly a loud laugh was heard, and then the men imme-

128 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

diately burst into mirthful shouts. We learned that the
Soudanese night-watch had been suddenly startled at
what they took to be a large body of men crawling
towards the camp for the purpose of making an attack.
They shouted to the men, and at once every one sprang
to his feet, loaded his rifle, and screamed with excite-
ment and fright. When all hands were fully aroused,
it was then seen that the attacking party of savages
consisted of a horde of monstrous apes, which had
probably been attracted by our fires, but, terrified almost
as much as my men, made off at once upon hearing the
uproar. Some of these creatures weigh more than sixty
pounds.

We crossed the Guaso Nyiro the following morning,
and marched four miles along the foot of the plateau.
Upon reaching its end we made camp, and Lieutenant
von Hohnel and I at once ascended it, this time climb-
ing its northern face. We were rewarded by getting
a view of the boundless desert, stretched on all sides
to the horizon. Across this desert flowed the Guaso
Nyiro, enshrouded in dhum palms and acacias.

In the northeast our eyes were greeted by the sight
of what appeared to be an enormous sheet of water, dis-
tant about thirty miles. Lieutenant von Héhnel and I
turned silently to one another, and with deep feeling
clasped hands, delighted to think that the stories of the
size of the lake had not been exaggerated. I at once
set about guessing the number of days required to reach
it, and Lieutenant von Hohnel, taking its bearings with
his compass, decided and announced that it must be
nearly sixty miles in length.

On both sides of the green strip which marked the

IV TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 129

course of the Guaso Nyiro stretched the desert, dazzling
white, and level as the sea. At the point on which we
stood the face of the plateau made a sharp turn west-
ward, and in that direction continued as far as the eye
could see.

After three days’ march over the desert in a direction
parallel to the river we came to a spot where on all
sides roamed herds of zebra, oryx beisa, ostrich, and
grantii, and standing here and there was the huge black
body of a rhinoceros. One marvelled how these ani-
mals could sustain life on such a desert; for with the
exception of a few low, parched bushes there was
scarcely any vegetation. Here and there a few strag-
gling blades of grass forced their way through the soil;
but at no place was there apparent a growth sufficient,
in one’s opinion, for the sustenance of such vast herds
of game.

On one occasion while in this part of the country I
had a narrow escape from a rhinoceros. It was toward
evening, and we intended to soon make camp; when,
at a point about 400 yards in advance of the column,
I saw a small herd of zebra and two giraffes. I halted
the caravan, and unaccompanied set out to stalk the
game. While so engaged I noticed to my right, at
a distance of about 200 yards, a solitary rhinoceros
placidly feeding. We had sufficient rhinoceros meat,
so I did not disturb him. The wind was blowing from
where I stood toward him, in short and irregular puffs.
I had approached to within 200 yards of my quarry and
was about to take aim, when a shrill whistle from my
men reached my ears. I turned around, and just in

time, for the rhinoceros upon scenting me at once made
K

130 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

for me. The soft soil had deadened the sound of his
approach, and as I was at the time thoroughly engrossed
in the stalk, I had not heard him. The whistle from
my men, warning me of my danger, gave me just a mo-
ment in which to leap to one side and avoid the rush
of the animal.

As a rule the rhinoceros snorts when it charges; but
this one had not made a sound. Needless to say, I
failed to get a shot at either the zebras or giraffes.
However, while the men were pitching camp, they were
charged by another rhinoceros, which paid the death

AAR

\\\

i ”) ) ql i, Na

\

DEAD RHINOCEROS

penalty for its temerity. We did not cut this animal
up at once, and during the night it was visited by a
hyena. One may form a conception of the thickness
and toughness of the hide of a rhinoceros from the
fact that, although the jaws of the hyena are very
powerful, the beast had to satisfy itself with the ends
of the ears and the tip of the tail, being unable to
make any impression upon the other parts of the
body.

Near this portion of the river we saw several large
zeribas. In these were unmistakable signs that they
once held camels, sheep, donkeys, and goats. Judging

IV TRAVELS [NV EASTERN AFRICA 131

from appearances at that time, they had been unoccu-
pied for more than a year.

On the third day after leaving the plateau we entered
a thick forest of acacias. This forest was literally alive
with rhinoceroses, which charged the caravan at almost
every turn. We also saw many giraffes at this point.
There one of our porters died of dysentery, and was
buried by his companions. They made a shallow grave
with their axes and machettes, and wrapping him in
about four yards of sheeting, left him as silent evidence
of our visit to this part of the world.

After another day’s journey we emerged from the
forest, and entered upon a treeless plain covered with
coarse grass, which grew to a height of eight feet.
The river at this point was much narrower — not more
than forty feet wide — and flowed between steep banks.
At intervals along its shores were little sandy strips,
on each of which we would find a monstrous crocodile
lying. Upon our approach, these saurians would noise-
lessly slip off and disappear in the water. Along both
banks of the river elephant trails were to be found,
but for which it would have been impossible to trav-
erse the jungle. These trails did not afford the very
best paths for travel, having been worn in the rainy
season, and in consequence filled with deep holes made
by the ponderous feet of these animals.

At noon we reached a small, solitary group of poplars.
My men climbed some of these trees and reported that
across the river in the jungle, at a distance of 1000
yards, there was a herd of twenty-two elephants. The
grass was so tall we knew it would be impossible to

get them, so we contented ourselves with gazing at

132 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

them. At that time they were not feeding, but ap-
peared to be enjoying a sun-bath. As the wind was
then blowing from them toward us, we hoped they
would come to the river to drink, thereby giving us
an opportunity for a shot. In this we were disap-
pointed. All that day and the next succeeding we
plodded over this elephant trail, always but a short
distance from the river bank.

Shortly after we left camp a hippopotamus, disturbed
by our approach, suddenly emerged from the tall grass
and plunged into the river, crossing our path not more
than four feet in front of where I stood. Although my
men wished me to shoot him, I refrained from so doing,
and amused myself in watching his furious antics in
the water, which at this point was so shallow that he
could not conceal his body beneath the surface.. Like
the ostrich, he endeavoured to conceal his head, but the
shouts of the porters so terrified him that he raised it
again, and splashed along by the side of the caravan,
every now and then opening his cavernous mouth and
then bringing his jaws together with a vicious snap.
At length he reached a deeper portion of the river,
into which he plunged and disappeared.

Many times during the morning we heard the snort
of rhinoceroses in the tall grass on our left, and at
length, toward noon, we heard a violent snort not more
than forty feet distant. In a moment we heard the dull
thud of his feet, but the grass was so high and thick
that we could catch no glimpse of the animal, yet all
the time knew he was coming in our direction. Soon
he reached the trail at a point about twenty feet behind
where I stood. I had my rifle ready, but could not

IV TRAVELS [NV EASTERN AFRICA 133

shoot, as my boy, Sururu, was between me and the
onrushing animal. In an instant he caught Sururu,
and with horror I saw the boy’s body. flying through
the air, and had just sufficient time to throw myself to
one side into the bush, ere the animal thundered past
me and disappeared in the long grass.

When I reached Sururu I found him lying on his
side, groaning. At the time of this adventure Sururu
was wearing an old canvas coat of mine, much too large
for him. In a lower pocket of this coat he kept my
compass and a heavy silver watch. The horn of the
rhinoceros, after passing between his legs from the rear,
broke the compass to bits, dented the thick case of the
watch, and glancing off, inflicted a dangerous-looking
wound in the groin. Had it not been for the thick
canvas coat, the compass, and the watch, I think the
blow would have been attended with fatal results.
After a few minutes Sururu recovered sufficiently from
the shock to be placed upon my horse, when we started
on our way with any but pleasant thoughts and feelings.

As before stated, the grass was so thick that it was
impossible to see a rhinoceros until the animal was
actually upon one, so that avoiding the rush of one
of these animals in this thicket was more a matter of
good luck than good judgment.

Fifteen minutes after the accident to Sururu we
reached a small open space in the tall grass. At this
point there was lying across our path the trunk of a
small, dead tree. Here my attention was arrested by
a disagreeable sight only ten feet away, but on the
other side of the fallen tree. There stood a _ rhinoc-
eros facing me. It was impossible for us to turn back,

134 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP. IV

and, as the fallen tree hid the animal’s shoulder, I could
see no vital spot exposed at which to aim. I gazed at
it—fascinated. Its small eyes appeared to look into
my very heart, and I could distinctly hear the grinding
of its teeth as it fed. The wind was blowing in my
direction.

For some moments we stood facing one another.
Almost unconsciously I raised my rifle to my shoulder
and ranged my eye along the sights. Still no move-
ment on the part of the animal. After remaining in
this position for, say, thirty seconds, the animal appeared
to become restless and swung its horned snout to one
side, thereby giving me an opportunity for a good shot
at its neck. In an instant my rifle was discharged;
then through the smoke rushed the rhinoceros. In-
stinctively I leaped to one side, and, as it passed me, I
gave it a second shot, almost without taking any aim.
It fell—dead. Beyond doubt this was the same rhi-
noceros which had tossed Sururu, for upon the tip of
its forward horn blood was plainly to be seen. I partly
account for its utter unconsciousness of our approach
from the fact that in the bright sunlight a rhinoceros
is quite blind; but how to explain why it had not heard
us forcing our way through the tall grass I am unable
to say. It could not smell us, for the wind blew in our
direction, so that I am forced to the conclusion that
the rhinoceros depends more upon its sense of smell
than upon either its sight or hearing.

By this time the faces of my men wore solemn and
frightened expressions, and many of them muttered that
I must be bewitched to follow such a path, and through
such a dangerous country. But had not Lieutenant

ASANVGNOS AO GUYVNONVA HILIM ‘YOHLAY FHL

CHAP. IV TRAVELS [IN EASTERN AFRICA 137

von Hohnel and I seen from the top of Marisi Alugwa
Zombo plateau the wide expanse of the waters of Lake
Lorian? That was sufficient, and no thought of turning
back could enter our minds until we had reached this
lake. We then thought we must be near it, and we
expected that an early hour would find us encamped
upon its shores.

That night we were forced to cut a small opening in
the tall grass so that our men could sleep. Knowing
that it was unlikely that we should fall in with more
trees, upon leaving our last camp we took with us a few
dry twigs. These sufficed to make a fire upon which
fomroast a little meat. After sunset the air became
dank, and noisome vapours rose from the sluggish
stream. We welcomed the coming of the following
day with joy, and in order to hearten my men [I as-
sured them that a few hours’ more marching would
certainly find us in the open country. This proved
to be the case; the grass was lower, and occasionally
a stunted acacia could be seen above it.

On this day the members of my caravan presented a
most doleful appearance. Lieutenant von Hoéhnel and
I were both stricken with fever; Sururu groaned from
the back of my horse; one porter, borne in a hammock
by two of his comrades, was dying of dysentery, and one
of the Soudanese staggered along with the aid of a stick,
his eyes wildly staring, and his lps muttering senseless
phrases: he was unconscious from fever. Onward we
silently and doggedly pressed. About noon we passed
close to a herd of seven elephants, but looked at them
with absolute indifference. Our minds were bent upon
the single purpose of getting out of this dreadful coun-

138 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

try, and resting from our labours upon the shores of the
lake. The soil was becoming moist under foot, and the
grass wore a greener appearance. Where can the lake
be? was our thought.

At one o'clock, seeing a tall sycamore tree across the
river (at this point not ten yards wide), we stopped the
caravan, crossed the stream, and climbed as high as pos-
sible up the tree. From this vantage point we took one
long look, and then with half-suppressed curses de-
scended to the ground. There is no Lake Lorian! It
is but a vast swamp, overgrown with papyrus and water-
grass. The narrowness and shallowness of the river at
this point (it was but a foot deep) proved to us that it
could not continue beyond the swamp —at least, in the
dry season. Here, then, was the end of high hopes and
incessant effort —no lake, no Rendile. The vast sheet
of water we had seen from the top of the plateau had
been a mirage. We felt that we had been tricked and
duped by Nature at every turn. Our feelings of dejec-
tion were shared by every member of the caravan.
They, too, had lived in glad hopes of reaching the lake.
Time and again [ had promised them that upon reach-
ing it they should have their fill of camels’ milk and
goats’ flesh. The burden of their muttered and _ in-
cessant refrain was: “Wapi?” (“Where?”) “ Wapi
bahari? Wapi ngamia? Wapi mbuzi? Wapi maziwa?
Hapana kitu hapa! Gehennam tu!” (“ Where is the
lake? Where are the camels? Where are the goats?
Where is the milk? There is not a thing here! It is
simply hell!”’)

Our sympathies were with them, but it was unwise to
allow them to remain long in this state; so they were at

IV TRAVELS [IN EASTERN AFRICA 139

once set to work getting grass to strew upon the damp
ground, while some were sent off in parties to collect
what few dried sticks they could find. This work was
soon accomplished. Each group of porters had a tiny
fire, over which they were able to warm slightly their
strips of meat. Lieutenant von Hohnel and I retired
to bed, ill with fever. Our spirits were still further
depressed by the night’s experience; mosquitoes in
myriads swarmed about us. Even the thick skins of
the negroes were not proof against the attacks of the
tiny denizens of the swamp. No one was able to sleep.
Curses and impotent yells echoed throughout the camp.
Lieutenant von Hohnel and I each had mosquito cur-
tains ; which, however, proved of no service as barriers
from the pests. Throughout the long night we turned
over in our minds but one project — how to get out as
quickly as possible from this abode of pestilence and
death.

From the tree we had seen that the swamp stretched
for several miles to the eastward. On both sides of the
small stream the grass rose to a great height, and we
knew that we had to march close to the river, in order
to be able to procure water; so that there was nothing
now to do but to return over the route by which we had
reached the place. Our food supply was well-nigh ex-
hausted, but we calculated that by making vigorous
marches we should be able to reach the Jombeni Moun-
tains before it gave out.

On the following day, ere the break of dawn, all was in
readiness for our departure, and at sunrise the wearied
caravan started on its march. It is highly probable that
during the rainy season Lorian Swamp may have the

140 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

appearance of a lake; and it is possible that after con-
tinued and heavy rains there is an outflow in an easterly
direction. The altitude of the bed of the swamp is
about 500 feet above sea-level; but for all intents and
purposes Lorian Swamp can be called the end and limit
of the Guaso Nyiro River.

Nine days of severe marching brought us once more
to the Christmas camping-place. Shortly after we left
the environment of Lorian Swamp, the Soudanese who
was ill with fever, and the porter who had been suffering
from dysentery, died and were buried by the banks of
the muddy stream.

It was with feelings of the greatest relief that we
found ourselves once more in open country. Those six
days spent in that tall grass were, indeed, terrible. The
river, dark, muddy, and listlessly flowing between clay
banks, was filled with large crocodiles; and occasionally
from its waters there would rise some hideously shaped
water-bird. These lent a gloomy air to what we were
permitted by the tall grass to see. The charging rhi-
noceroses and fierce hippopotamuses added an element
of danger. All this, with the atmosphere heavily laden
with malaria, increased our feelings of bitter disappoint-
ment at our failure to discover either a great lake or the
Rendile.

Upon reaching the open desert Lieutenant von
Hohnel and I recovered our spirits once more; and, de-
spite the fact that for more than a month our diet had
consisted of beans, corn, and what game we had been
able to shoot (not the best food for a convalescent), we
were able to march eight or nine hours each day with-
out excessive fatigue.

IV TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 141

On this march game seemed to be in greater plenty
than it had been for the two preceding weeks. We
killed many zebras, of a variety called grevii. The
Guaso Nyiro seemed to be the dividing line between the
country abounding with that species of animal and that
roamed by the chapmani and burcheli. We found the
two latter species very plentiful in the neighbourhood of
the Jombeni range, but as soon as we had crossed the
Guaso Nyiro, only the grevii were met. The latter
make capital food; their flesh is tender, and they seem
to carry much more fat than the other species. This,
when boiled down and allowed to cool, does not congeal,
and so makes excellent cooking material. The flesh of
the chapmani and burcheli, however, is tough and taste-
less, and possesses very much of what I imagine to be
the flavour of horse-flesh.

One day, while passing the foot of the Marisi Alugwa
Zombo plateau, I came across a herd of twelve buffalo.
They appeared to be much smaller than the buffaloes I
had shot on my former journey in Masai Land. [ think
I am right in stating they were not the Bos Kaffr, as
those found in Southern Africa and Masai Land are
called, but the Bos Orientalis, which roam the upper
regions of the Nile.

I had a curious adventure with these buffaloes. Upon
reaching them I had but four cartridges in my Winches-
ter; and, the cover being good, and the wind blowing in
the right direction, I was able to knock down four, ere
they broke into a run. Seeing the bodies lying upon
the ground, I sent my gun-bearer back to hurry forward
the men, in order that they might cut up the meat with
as little delay as possible. He had scarcely left me,

142 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

when, much to my astonishment, I saw them, one after
the other, stagger to their feet, and, slowly at first, but
quickly enough in a moment or two, set out after the
rest of the herd. I can account for this only upon the
supposition that each one of my four bullets had just
grazed the spine, and simply stunned the animals, which
upon recovering from the effects of the shock were able
to get up and run away. We searched for them several

a %
Hea Mtn Rola
Yl fi Hy i) PHA ay cs iy

Leal i all
YUP Yn

eri

CAMP ON THE PLAIN NEAR LORIAN

hours, but were unable to find them. In the spot where
each animal had lain there was blood in plenty, but that
was the only evidence that the sighting and shooting of
these animals had been other than a dream.

On several occasions, both Lieutenant von Hohnel
and I killed zebra at distances varying from 600 to 800
paces. This only happened where the country was so
open that we were unable to get closer to the game.
The weapon used in these cases was, of course, a Mann-
licher, the far-carrying properties of which, during our

IV TRAVELS [IN EASTERN AFRICA 143

entire journey, never seemed tested to their utmost.
The trajectory of a bullet fired from one of these rifles
seemed to be perfectly flat for any distance at which the
eye could see the object.

After we had crossed the Guaso Nyiro I had an inter-
esting adventure with a lion. It had rained during the
morning, and in consequence the soil had become a sea
of clinging mud. I was some distance in front of my
caravan, and had just shot a grantii, when my gun-bearer
and I heard some curious, whining noises in the bushes
to our left. He (Karscho) said he thought there was a
hyena about; so we approached cautiously in the direc-
tion from which we had heard the noise. Suddenly
Karscho seized my arm, pointed to the right, and whis-
pered in an excited manner, “‘.Szméa” (“lion”); and there
I saw, standing and gazing calmly at us, a full-grown
animal, maneless, hence probably a female. I had fool-
ishly entrusted my gun to Karscho, and before I could
take it from his hands the lon wheeled and was off
through the bushes. We were after it at once. Its
great paws left prints in the mud as large as saucers,
so that pursuit was easy. It would run 100 yards or so,
and then hide in a bush, waiting our nearer approach,
when it would again break cover and be off once more,
but always on the opposite side of the bush from where
we stood, so that we never got a sight of the animal.
In this way we chased the lion for nearly half a mile,
until at length we came to a circular clump of bush,
some sixty feet in diameter and very dense. We circled
this clump, and found that the tracks of the animal led
into, but not out of it; so I stationed myself down-wind,
and sent Karscho back to bring on my porters, with the

144 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

intention of having them beat the bush, alarm the lion,
and drive it down in the open toward me. In half an
hour he returned with the porters. While he was away,
I fired two shots into the bush in the hope of dislodging
the animal, but without this result. Upon the arrival of
the porters I instructed them to advance slowly into the
bush ina line, keeping close together; and each one was
to shout as vigorously as possible, and beat his tin water-
bottle. The porters entered into the spirit of the game,
but the Soudanese refused to risk their lives. They
said that in their country the lion was feared as the
very devil, and no one with the slightest intelligence
thought of venturing to close quarters with one. As
they seemed so fearful, I allowed them to become spec-
tators of the beat.

The din made by my porters could have been heard
for a great distance; their advance into the bush was
slow, but steady. For nearly five minutes no result
attended their efforts; but when they had almost got
quite through the bush, a loud, short roar was heard,
and like a flash of yellow light the hon darted from its
hiding-place, and once more disappeared behind a neigh-
bouring bush. During its flight I had but time for the
quickest of snap-shots, and must have missed the animal
by many feet. For more than half an hour we followed
its trail, but finally were forced to give up the chase.
Thus ended the hon adventure.

On another occasion we had just made camp, and
were resting in our chairs before our tent, when one
of the men came up and told us a rhinoceros was ap-
proaching at full speed in our direction. Lieutenant
von Hohnel seized his Mannlicher, and shot the animal

IV TRAVELS [NM EASTERN AFRICA 145

when at a distance of eighty yards from him. The
bullet entered the chest of the rhinoceros and raked
the entire length of his body, passing out through his
quarter. As soon as it received the shot, the rhinoceros
fell dead. Many ostriches were seen, but they were so
wary, and kept at such great distances from us, that we
had not the good fortune to shoot one.

Along the banks of the river we found several small
zeribas which had been inhabited by the Wanderobbo.

i, i a
Mi it i Maar Ge)

Sta Ae fh gees
an fs ihe ne

A) fell Nea

Sa i NN

\\\ ThQ SS
WHOS

SCENE NEAR LORIAN

These people I shall hereinafter speak of at greater
length. Let it suffice here to say that they are a tribe
living entirely upon game and wild honey. Wherever
we found signs of a camp which had been inhabited by
these people, we also discovered in its vicinity many
small, carefully erected blinds, in which it was evidently
the custom of these people to lie in wait for game.

Late on the evening of January 18, we reached our
Christmas camping-place on the Guaso Nyiro. The

then most pressing question was, how to make our store
G

146 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

of food last until we could reach the Jombeni range.
The long marches of the last nine days had told
severely upon the strength of my men, and they one
and all presented a wofully emaciated appearance.
Moreover, Lieutenant von Hoéhnel and I, not more
from the excessive marching than from the coarseness
of our fare, seemed in great need of rest and better diet,
but to stop where we were was out of the question. ,in
camp we had food for two days. Motio, our guide, told
us that owing to the drought it would be impossible for
us to take the route via the Ngombe and Kora craters to
the mountains, but he assured us that there was a tribe
inhabiting the western portion of the range. These
people, he said, were called Wamsara. They were pos-
sessed of food in plenty, and as they were rarely visited
by traders, he felt sure they would give us a good recep-
tion, and gladly exchange their products for what trad-
ing-goods we had with us. We rested at our Christmas
camping-place one day, and on Friday, January 20, set
out for the Jombeni Mountains and food.

The whole of the western side of this range, with the
exception of the portion inhabited by the Wamsara, is
bare of trees and wears a most forbidding aspect. From
the eastern slopes many small streams flow either into
the Mackenzie or Tana. From the western slopes,
however, no streams flow into the Guaso Nyiro, but
the water shed by these mountains silts through the
soil, and rises to the surface again in the form of
springs (for the most part strongly impregnated with
sulphate of magnesium) only in the immediate neigh-
bourhood of the Guaso Nyiro.

Motio told us that from this point it would take

IV TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 147

four days’ marching to reach the Wamsara. We were
delighted to find that in the neighbourhood of these
springs game was fairly plentiful, as this enabled us to
save our small store of grain-food for emergencies. On
the evening of the 22d we camped at the foot of
a high gneiss hill, called by Motio Chabba. At the
foot of this hill we found a spring of cool and delicious
water flowing, and near by sported large herds of zebra,
oryx beisa, and grantii. They stood within roo yards of
of our camp, looking with curiosity at us, who prevented
them from getting to their accustomed watering-place.
The cry of a zebra much resembles the short, sharp
bark of a dog; and when excited, these animals invari-
ably give vent to this cry ere making off at top speed.
We always felt uncomfortable at having to shoot a
zebra, but when hungry men are to be fed, too nice
feelings have to be sacrificed. Zebras are so numerous
upon both banks of the Guaso Nyiro, that I feel sure,
should a party go there well equipped for the purpose,
it might in a few months succeed in capturing a large
number of these animals. They seem to be entirely
proof against the ill effects of fly-bite; and the plague,
which had lately ravaged the country from Lake
Rudolph on the north to Kilimanjiro on the south,
although it had exterminated vast herds of buffalo,
and had even destroyed a large number of antelope,
had apparently left the zebra untouched. aa
The greatest difficulty in connection with beasts of
burden in this portion of East Africa is, that they are
much too susceptible to the ill effects of the climate
and flies. Should zebras be substituted in the stead
of the animals at present used, these difficulties would

148 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

not be encountered, and travel in this country would
thereby be much facilitated. I have heard it stated,
that in South Africa zebras have been tamed _ suff-
ciently to be harnessed to a coach. If such is the
case, I see no reasons why, with proper methods and
patience, they could not be broken to become excel-
lent pack animals. I hope the British government,
which appears to have at length decided to open up
East Africa, will, ere it is too late, and sportsmen have
exterminated the zebra, give this matter the attention
which it deserves; for I feel convinced that intelligent
efforts made with this end in view will be amply re-
paid. In my opinion, the sum of $5000 would be suf-
ficient for such an experiment. The zebras could be
captured, either by building stockades near their drink-
ing-places, into which they could be driven and secured;
or, perhaps still better, by horsemen provided with
lassos. The zebras in this part of the world are so
tame, that I think there would be little difficulty ex-
perienced in their capture.

Near Mount Chabba, I saw for the first time what I
might correctly term a herd of rhinoceroses. I counted
six feeding close together. Usually these animals are
met with singly, or at most in pairs; and when two
are found together, they are usually a mother and
offspring.

At this camp I examined the rifles carried by my men,
and found them in a very unsatisfactory condition. I
served out a bit of rag and some melted zebra fat to
each man, and informed the men that in three hours I
would inspect the rifles, and I expected then to find them
thoroughly cleaned. The result gives a fair idea of one

IV TRAVELS IV EASTERN AFRICA 149

phase of the character of the Zanzibari — carelessness.
My Soudanese and Somali set to work, and soon had
their weapons in very good condition. But at least
half of the porters ate the melted fat given them, and
threw away the rags, yet were much surprised and
pained upon learning my displeasure.

On leaving Chabba the next day, we ascended a small
ridge, from which we got a beautiful view of the contour
of the northern side of Mount Kenya. Viewed from the
north, this mountain presents the appearance of a vast
pyramid, whose sides slope gradually to the plain. On
the eastern slope, near the apex, the regularity of outline
is interrupted by a rounded, knob-like projection. The
snow-capped peak gleams white against the blue sky.
Extending to a distance of twenty miles from the base
on the northern side, there runs a range of hills which
form a narrow ridge. This ridge gradually slopes away
until it ends in the plain near the Guaso Nyiro. From
its supposed resemblance to a queue, in which fashion
the Masai warriors wear their hair, these people have
called the range Donyo Loldeikan (Queue Mountains).

Motio assured us that between Mount Chabba and
the country of the Wamsara we should find a river,
which, having its source in the Jombeni range, flowed
into the Guaso Nyiro. He told us we should reach
this river early in the afternoon; so we carried no
water on this march.

In the neighbourhood of Chabba the formation of
the soil was gneiss, but a few miles beyond, our way
was once more over lava-strewn plains. We marched
steadily from seven o’clock in the morning until after
sunset, but found no water. I then pitched camp, and

150 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

sent men out in search of water. They returned about
nine in the evening, with the news that they had found

a small hole containing liquid mud in sufficient quantity
to suffice for the needs of our caravan. Mohamadi, the
headman of the porters, did not reach camp until nine
o'clock. The illness of one of the porters on the march
had delayed him. This porter seemed to have lost the
use of his limbs; he was wofully thin, and, owing to
the fact that he had suffered from dysentery, had been
unable to subsist upon a meat diet. The meagre rations
we were compelled to allow him seemed insufficient for
the recovery of his strength.

The following day, within one hour’s march from our
camp, we found a pool filled with excellent water. Had
we known the night before of the existence of this pool,
we should have been saved a deal of trouble and worry.
We then had three men suffering from dysentery, and
Sururu, although his wound was healing nicely, was
unable to walk. Two of the sick men rode donkeys, but
Sururu and the porter suffering from exhaustion were
carried in hammocks. This number of sick greatly
retarded our progress, and we made but five miles on
that day. At every point of our route Mount Kenya
could be seen. The beauty and grandeur of this
mountain seemed to grow upon us. From our view-
point, the greatest apparent width of the mountain
extended from the northwest to the southeast. Its
irregular, snow-capped peak seemed to be many miles
away. Its sides declined to the northwest in a_ well-
defined ridge, until the mountain at length blended
and was lost in the Donyo Loldeikan. In a north-
easterly direction from the summit, and about half-way

IV TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 151

down the side of the mountain, there was a series of
extinct craters and cone-shaped hills, which extended
to the plain below.

The northern side of Mount Kenya is very barren-
looking, until an altitude of g000 or 10,000 feet is
reached, at which height one may see a narrow belt
of forest crossing the northwestern slope, gradually
widening until it reaches the southwestern side, which
appears to be covered with a dense, forest-like growth.

January 29, at 10 A.M., we arrived at the river prom-
ised by Motio the preceding day. At the point where
we reached the stream it was a mere brook; but
Motio said that another stream, coming from Mount
Kenya, flowed into it, and that jointly they made a good
addition to the Guaso Nyiro. Rhinoceroses were plen-
tiful here, and we saw further signs of elephant. At
noon we reached a dense growth of acacias and other
bushes, where we rested for a moment by the side
of a deep ditch formed by the rains. Here, with the
aid of our glasses, we could see on the slopes of the
Jombeni range, about five miles distant, the huts of
the Wamsara. The soil is a bright red.

A few hours after we crossed the ditch and
resumed the march, the occasional cries of men were
heard. At length we emerged from the bush, and
entered a beautiful forest glade about thirty acres in
extent. In the centre of this glade bubbled a clear
mountain spring fringed with reeds, near which an
unsuspecting and naked savage was pasturing some
cattle. I was riding on my white pony in front of my
men, and when I appeared on the edge of the glade,
the terrified negro left his cattle and fled. He had

152 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

never in his life seen even a horse or a white man
separately, and when the two appeared simultaneously,
the sight proved too much for his nerves.

In an incredibly short time a large band of fully
armed warriors arrived, and endeavoured to persuade
me to fall in with their ideas of a suitable camping-
place. I waved them off, and pitched my tent under
a tall palm tree. Through Motio we told them we
wanted food, and were friends. They seemed incredu-
lous, but after much talk we succeeded in purchasing
a few potatoes, which Lieutenant von Hodhnel and I
had cooked, and later ate with avidity. These were
the first fresh vegetables we had partaken of since
leaving Hameye.

Immediately after my arrival the able-bodied men
were set to work, and in less than half an hour the
camp was fortified by a strong thorn zeriba. As this
work proceeded, the natives eyed us with suspicion;
and once or twice several elderly men actually ventured
to seize some of the thorn bushes, and break down a
portion of the zeriba already made. They sullenly with-
drew, upon being told by Motio that the white man
objected to their interference. We were one and all
rejoiced at having reached people, and the prospect of
food in plenty. The countenances of my men soon lost
the appearance of fatigue and anxiety they had worn
during the previous month, and even the sick and ailing
raised their heads, and showed signs of interest in what
was going on about them.

It is characteristic of the sick African to give up all
hope of recovery; and this, together with the hardships
they were forced to undergo while on the march, and the

IV TRAVELS [VM EASTERN AFRICA 153

meagreness of their diet, made it a really difficult matter
to restore one of them to health after being taken ill.

On this day we served out the last of our supply of
beans and corn. By the use of our rifles, we had been
enabled to make the thirty days’ supply of food which
we had taken with us when leaving Hameye last exactly
fifty days. Had we gone unprepared, to take advantage
of the presence of game, we should long before have
been forced to turn back. For the preceding ten days
both Lieutenant von Hohnel and I had suffered all the
tortures of indigestion resulting from our coarse diet.
With eagerness we questioned Motio as to the products
of the country of Wamsara. He said the natives grew
two kinds of millet, Indian corn, tobacco, squash, pump-
kins, and three varieties of beans. The thought of this
variety watered our mouths; and we went to sleep
soothed with the thought that on the morrow market
would open, and we should revel in the luxury of fresh
vegetables.

Clive hE RAN,

WE were up with the dawn of the following day, and
made haste to display our supply of trading-goods in
the most tempting manner. These consisted of two
loads of heavy American sheeting, several bolts of bright
scarlet cotton goods, coils of iron, copper, and brass wire
of varying thicknesses, and a great variety of beads —
red, white, pink, and blue—of all sizes and shapes.
We felt confident that our wares would arouse the mer-
cantile instincts of the Wamsara; for had not Motio
assured us that they were rarely visited by traders?
We knew that what traders had reached these people
had brought with them as articles of barter only the
-most inexpensive materials, and a limited variety of
even such.

The night just passed had been very cold. Our ther-
mometer at sunrise registered 54 Fahrenheit. When
one bears in mind that the temperature at midday was
120 F., the severity of this cold may be imagined. Our
poor men, although they had built great fires, shivered
so that they had scarcely been able to sleep, covered as
they were with but a thin cotton sheet. It is surprising
what a degree of cold negroes can bear, provided they
are well nourished. Their thick, oily skins seem to
retain the natural heat of the body, when exposed to
variations of temperature which would prostrate a

154

CHAP. V TRAVELS [N EASTERN AFRICA 155

white man. When cold, the negro invariably covers
his head and ears, and often sleeps with his head to the
fire; while between him and the ground, no matter
how cold and damp, is spread but a single thickness
of straw matting, though most of the porters preferred
the skin of an animal, when procurable. This custom
of covering the head and exposing the nether extrem-
ities is practised by all inhabitants of hot countries
I have ever met. The Arabs have a saying, “If you
cover your head warmly and expose your feet, health
will ever remain with you.” Of course, a European
is forced to wear shoes and_ stockings, which, while
they protect his feet, are very uncomfortable in hot
countries, and often cause the feet to swell. It has
been my experience that the thicker and warmer one’s
head covering in the tropics, the cooler one’s head
seems to be. For the first six months of this journey
I had worn a white turban, similar to those worn by
the Arabs, but had been forced to discard it, as its
conspicuousness rendered it difficult for me to stalk
game with success. Upon laying aside the turban,
I made use of a double-felt Terai hat, and had _in-
creased its weight and thickness by adding a band
consisting of many folds of cotton sheeting. I found
that the top of my head did not need nearly as much
protection as the temples and nape of the neck. Many
travellers prefer the cork helmet; but both Lieutenant
von Hohnel and I found them not only very cumber-
some and awkward (particularly when forcing our way
through bush), but also not nearly so great a protec-
tion against the rays of the sun as thick felt.

Motio had told us that owing to the cold the natives

156 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

of the mountains rarely ventured from their huts until
the sun was well up in the sky; so we were not surprised,
even at eight o’clock, at not seeing the natives we ex-
pected; but when ten and eleven had passed, and noon
arrived, finding the neighbourhood of our zeriba still
deserted, we began to feel anxious and to think that evil
was brewing.

We called Motio and questioned him. He said:
“Have patience; the Wamsara will surely come and

he Ue ae
MS

WAMSARA ELDERS

bring food.” While Lieutenant von Héhnel was mak-
ing his midday observation, we heard shouts from the
forest, and there soon appeared a motley band of na-
tives, numbering some hundreds. There were about
fitty old men among them; the rest were warriors. All
were armed. The old men carried long spears with
short, trowel-shaped heads, short bows, and arrows whose
tips we could see were covered with a black substance,
which we knew to be poison. They were clad in long

Vv TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 157

half-tanned cowhide, fastened with a loop over one
shoulder. Their heads were shaven.

The young men presented a much more warlike ap-
pearance. In their right hands they carried spears
nearly seven feet in length, in shape similar to those
carried by the Masai. These spears had a blade three
feet long, about five inches wide at its base, from which
it tapered to a sharp point. Fitted into a socket at-
tached to the blade was a short piece of wood, which was
grasped by the hand. Joined to this latter was a heavy
iron rod, of sufficient weight to give impetus to a blow.
This, likewise, was sharpened to a point. While en-
gaged in conversation the warriors drove their spears
into the ground. Around the waist they wore a belt,
between which and the body was stuck a short sword in
a sheath, and a war-club. The latter are three feet in
length, very slender where grasped by the hand, but end-
ing in a round knob as large as a baseball. On their
left arms they bore large oval shields, upon which,
painted in three different colours (red, white, and black),
were curious decorative designs.

The warriors were clad in short cloaks of untanned
goatskin, looped over the right shoulder by a strip of
hide, thus leaving the right arm free. These cloaks do
not fall lower than the stomach of the wearer.

The Wamsara wear their hair dressed in the Masai
fashion. From their foreheads and down almost to the
eyes falls a thick mass of hair cut square like a bang.
This is trained in small cordlike ringlets, dyed with red
clay, and covered with grease. The hair at the back of
the head is twisted into a queue, which is bound about
by a strip of sheepskin. Many of the warriors painted

158 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

both their upper and lower eyelids red, and several had
adorned their cheek-bones with round red spots. In
appearance they were very warlike, and their bearing
was graceful and fearless.

Upon nearing our zeriba, the crowd of natives grew
silent. They passed without deigning to favour our
camp with so much as a glance, but continued their
march to a point about 200 yards beyond us, where they
halted, and having seated themselves, engaged in excited
parley. The speakers were always old men, and but
one spoke at a time, while the others, gathered about
him in a circle, sat on their heels. In his right hand
the speaker invariably held a war-club, by wildly bran-
dishing which he added emphasis to his harangue.
Motio listened attentively to what they said, and his
face fell. He told us that he was afraid that the Wam-
sara would behave badly, and explained that they did
not seem to recognize any difference between our cara-
van and those of the Zanzibari, which occasionally vis-
ited them. He added, moreover, that no Zanzibari
caravan would dream of venturing into the Wamsara
country, unless several hundred in number; and _ that
the last caravan (numbering 200) which had _ visited
these people had all their goods stolen, and were cut
to pieces to aman. We asked why he had delayed in
telling us this; to which question he made an evasive
reply. We told him to explain to the Wamsara that
our intentions in visiting them were of the most peace-
ful nature; that we had journeyed a long time in the
desert, had exhausted our food supply, and had come
to them for the simple purpose of purchasing from them
a sufficient quantity of grain to enable us to return to

Vv TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 159

our camp at Hameye. He told this to the old men,
and presently returned with a request from them for a
present. As it is customary to begin one’s acquaint-
ance with a strange tribe with gifts, we sent a quantity
of beads and wire to them by Motio. He returned with
the intelligence that they were dissatisfied with the
present. This I had expected; so I told him to inform
them that the present I had given them was but a
small beginning of what would be theirs, should they
behave properly toward us; and to assure them that
not only would we give liberal prices for food, but that,
as soon as we had bought all we needed, we would dis-
tribute the remainder of our goods among the tribe, as
a proof of our friendship and liberality.

Motio said that they refused to bring food on that
day, but that on the following day their chief medicine-
man would come, and make blood brothers with the
white man; and then trade would begin. We were
much disgusted at this turn of affairs, but decided to
make the best of it; and so sent word to the Wamsara
that we would expect their medicine-man early the next
morning. Thereupon, the natives marched away, shout-
ing what Motio told us was a war-chant, and during the
afternoon no natives appeared.

That night there was a good moon, and about mid-
night my gun-bearer, Karscho, awoke me with the
intelligence that there was a rhinoceros drinking at a
spring not more than sixty feet away. I leaped from
my bed, and seized a rifle; knowing that if I succeeded
in bringing down the rhinoceros, the question of food
supply would be solved for a period of at least two days.
But I was destined to disappointment; for ere I was

160 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

able to get a sight at him, he had quenched his thirst
and disappeared in the bushes. That night my poor
men went supperless to bed, and during the night the
porter, who had been suffering from exhaustion and the
effects of dysentery, died. We were careful to bury him
in such a manner that his grave would not be noticed
by the natives; as these people do not bury their dead,
but throw them to the hyenas, being much averse to the
interment of a corpse in their territory, as they consider
it will have an evil effect upon their crops.

The next day Lieutenant von Hohnel and I went to
a neighbouring hill and surveyed the Wamsara territory.
We found that we were encamped near the edge of a
forest. From the forest to the highest peak of the
Jombeni range, quite ten miles away, all was cultivation.
Between us and the peak there stretched a wide valley,
surrounded by low, red-clay hills. The available surface
of the valley seemed to be covered with half-grown
millet. On the hillsides we counted a large number of
beehive-shaped straw huts. On this morning we had
been awakened by the cries of men, instead of the
barking of zebra or the howl of the hungry hyena.
Warriors and old men came in parties of twenty and
thirty, until at length about 300 were in sight. No
women came. This we knew to be a bad sign, as
the natives invariably show their peaceful intentions to
a caravan by permitting their women to visit it. Then,
too, almost all trading is done by the women; so from
their absence we apprehended another day of no market.

After a great deal of talk, Motio succeeded in pur-
chasing three yams and a package of tobacco. We
found the tobacco of the Wamsara to be very strong,

v TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 161

but of fair flavour. Their preparation of it was curious.
When dried, they tear it into small pieces and soak it
in water. They next knead it into a ball, and wrap it
up tightly, covering it with a banana leaf; then they
hang it up in their huts for several months, until it has
become quite dry. Its flavour is not disagreeable, but
owing to this method of treatment it is very strong.
One and all of the natives chewed tobacco, most took
snuff, and a few smoked pipes. Their pipes have
small stone or clay bowls, with long reed stems.

After assembling, the natives took themselves off to
a shady spot, and again indulged in a long harangue.
Accompanied by Motio, I went to them, and said that
our patience had become exhausted; that my men and
myself were actuated by the kindest impulses towards
the Wamsara, but that unless food was at once brought,
and the market opened, we should be forced to take
strong measures to supply ourselves with the neces-
saries for existence. While I was speaking, Lieutenant
von Hoéhnel was making his noon observation; and
I took pains to explain to the people that Lieutenant
von Hodhnel was a very great medicine-man; that he
was then engaged in making a medicine which would
frustrate any evil intentions which the Wamsara might
have formed in regard to their treatment of us, and
that at the same time it would imbue my caravan with
such enormous strength that we should be absolutely
irresistible. I told them to think over the matter,
and come to a quick decision to bring food and open
market.

They received these words with incredulity; so after
reiterating my statement I returned to camp; whereupon

M

162 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

the natives rose in a body, grasped their arms, and in-
dulged in a war-dance. Motio explained that it was use-
less to expect any good behaviour from the Wamsara;
and added that his advice was for us to return at once
to the desert, and endeavour to find some other road
back to our camp at Hameye.

The shortest route to Hameye lay across the Jombeni
range, and Motio assured us that our march across this
range in our present condition would consume at least
three days. He added that, as the mountains were
densely populated, it would be absolutely impossible
to push across them with our small force, should the
natives prove hostile, and that they would so prove he
declared himself fully convinced.

Up to the time of our arrival at Wamsara the
behaviour of Motio was all we could desire, hence we
were loath to suspect him of treachery; but the fact
that he did not warn us of the possibility of a hostile
reception at the hands of the people on the mountains
forced us to think that whatever were his intentions,
his judgment, at least, was not the best in the world.
Our first duty was to our caravan and ourselves; so
Lieutenant von Hohnel and I both came to the con-
clusion that but one road was open to us, and that it
led across the mountains, and through the territory of
the Wamsara. With the caravan in its then weakened
state, it would be impossible to make a long detour in
the desert, and trust to our rifles alone for our supply
of food. We weighed the matter carefully, and went
to rest that night with our minds fully made up.

At two o'clock in the morning I had my men
awakened, and all preparations were silently made for

Vv TRAVELS [NV EASTERN AFRICA 163

our departure. I served out twenty rounds of ammu-
nition to each of the porters, and provided each of
the Soudanese and Somali with fifty. This well-nigh
exhausted the store of cartridges we had taken with us.
Owing to the amount of shooting I had done while on
this journey, I had at that time but fifty-five rounds left

vi) és TEN WAT,
NIRA \
\\ » Ss

| \ MW
\ \ Y

,
\
\\\ aie

‘ ! Wa

&

i Te Wh n Saree

f 4 Ni \ Nina m ur’s fe
ie

i h
iy

i

TYPE OF LANDSCAPE

for my Winchester, and Lieutenant von Hodhnel had
sixty-four left for his Mannlicher. After serving out
the ammunition to the men, we discovered that we had
300 rounds as a reserve supply in case of emergencies.

It was a bright moonlight night, and strict watch
was kept, lest the natives should attack us; for Motio
had told us that the Zanzibari caravan, which had been

164 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

destroyed by the Wamsara a few years before, had been
attacked in the night; but no sign of natives could be
seen. The Somali spent the night in prayer and sing-
ing of religious songs, as is their custom upon the eve
of a dangerous enterprise.

By five o'clock in the morning all was ready in camp,
and we started on the march which we hoped would
lead to food, but feared would in all probability be
attended with many difficulties and no little danger.
My men, to stay the pangs of hunger, one and all
tightened their belts around their bodies. Lieutenant
von Hohnel and I fortified ourselves with a cup of
coffee, and placed in our pockets a few handfuls of
corn. These handfuls of corn were the only food in
the caravan.

Our order of marching was as follows: I was in the
front accompanied by five Soudanese, Karscho my gun-
bearer, my tent-boy Baraka, and Motio our guide. To
guard against treachery on the part of Motio, he was
securely bound about the waist with a rope, the end
of which was held by a stalwart porter, who bore in
his other hand a small American flag. Behind the
little advance guard came half of the able-bodied
porters, bearing on their heads loads of trading-goods
and trophies of the chase. Following these porters
(some eighteen in number) came the sick; two were
carried in hammocks, and one rode a donkey. Then
came the donkeys which had been used to carry our
food while it lasted. Their empty panniers rattled
against their sides, and gave noisy but unassailable
evidence of the desperate straits to which we were
then reduced for supplies. Following the donkeys

Vv TRAVELS IM EASTERN AFRICA 165

came the remainder of the porters. The rear of the
caravan was brought up by Lieutenant von Hdhnel,
his tent-boys, five Soudanese, the remainder of the
Somali, and Hamidi, the headman of the porters.

Through the forest there lay a well-beaten path,
and the rays of the setting moon enabled us to make
our way over it without difficulty. Half an hour’s
march, and we began to enter the bordering planta-
tions of the Wamsara. The path then became better.
On both sides millet rose to the height of two feet,
and the plantations were dotted here and there with
what in the weird moonlight looked like watch-towers.
Such they proved to be. The natives had raised
wooden platforms to the height of fifteen feet, on
which fires were burning, and around these fires we
could just descry the forms of warriors. Our advance
was made as silently as possible; but we had not
entered the cultivated portion of the Wamsara terri-
tory a quarter of a mile, ere from tower to tower were
exchanged fierce cries, and the brightening dawn
enabled us to distinguish large bodies of natives
hurrying on to some point in front of us.

Soon it was daybreak, and, as our approach had
already become known to the natives, I gave the
order for the tomtom to sound. The first rays of
the rising sun illumined the stars and stripes carried
at the head of my little force, as with flying colours
and sounding tomtom we advanced briskly into a
country which we felt convinced was inhabited by
people in every way hostile to us.

When Lieutenant von Hoéhnel and I had ascended
the hill near the camp which we had just left for the

166 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

purpose of getting information as to the contour of
the territory of the Wamsara, we had noticed that
the valley inhabited by these people was wider at its
centre; hence our endeavour was to reach this portion
of the country, if possible, ere we were attacked by
the natives. At 6.30 we crossed a little stream, and
by seven had halted upon a small knoll commanding
a good view of the surrounding country, and _inter-
sected by many broad paths. Near us (in fact, not
more than 200 yards distant) in several places were
scattered groups of native huts. These appeared to
be deserted by the male inhabitants, but were thronged
with women and children, who eyed us curiously for
a short time and then made off.

Upon reaching the knoll, I placed at its centre our
sick, with the loads of trading-goods and donkeys,
and with my men formed a circle around the stores.
We had scarcely taken our position ere I noticed at
one of the villages near by a man past middle age,
who was clad somewhat more luxuriously than any
of the Wamsara I had seen before. About his head
was bound a wide strip of red cotton, and from his
shoulders depended a cloak made from the skins of
monkeys. Through Motio I entered into conversa-
tion with this man, but could learn nothing from him;
so by a quick movement I succeeded in seizing and °
binding him. I then brought him to our little knoll,
and explained to him that even then our intentions
were purely friendly. We had waited long enough
for the Wamsara to bring us food and open trade
with us. Under the circumstances we felt justified
in seizing food, but in order to prove our good inten-

Vv TRAVELS [IN EASTERN AFRICA 167

tions I was willing to wait until the sun reached a

certain point (which I indicated — about nine o’clock),
to afford the Wamsara ample time in which to bring
us food and open trade.- Should they not avail them-
selves of this opportunity, but one course remained
for us—to seize sufficient food to supply the imme-
diate needs of our caravan at all hazards. If they
wished to attack us, well and good; but let them
first get our trading-goods by barter; then, if they
considered themselves sufficiently strong, they could
attack us and deprive us of all the food they had
sold us.

The old man listened to my remarks with stolid
countenance, and at their conclusion a shadowy smile
lit up his features. Motio shook his head and said:
“Master, there is no use in waiting any longer; the
Wamsara will attack us in a moment.” With these
words he waved his hands to the surrounding hills,
then black with warriors, and ringing with their savage
shouts.

The eyes of my men were all centred upon me.
They seemed to lose sight of the danger in which they
were placed, as if their minds were imbued with but
one idea—food. They murmured: “In these villages
near at hand there is food in plenty; we must fight

soon, but before fighting let us eat.”

Some one has said that Scotchmen fight better when
they are hungry; but my small experience has con-
vinced me this is not the case with negroes.

The numbers of the natives upon the surrounding
hills momentarily increased, and I felt the necessity of

striking an immediate blow, before the courage of my

168 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP. V

men should be dampened by the onrush of hordes of
shouting savages. I made four divisions of my force:
one consisted of Lieutenant von Hohnel and myself,
the sick, and six able-bodied men —this party remained
on the knoll; the other-three parties I sent to the
neighbouring villages with instructions to bring such
food as they could find, sufficient for the day’s needs.
They cheerfully set out upon their errand, and in a few
moments had driven a few head of cattle, some goats,
and a few sheep to our knoll, and brought with them
a few loads of beans and millet. They had scarcely
reached the knoll, ere with loud shouts a body of
warriors, at least 200 in number, sprang from the
plantations where they had been in hiding, and dashed
toward the knoll by a road. Advancing in column,
they presented a front of but five or six men. I placed
six men across this road to repel their attack, and
when the attacking force had reached a point about 100
paces distant they received the first volley. The aim of
this volley was bad, and had no deterring effect upon
the advance of the savages. The command, “Aim
lower!” was given, and when the second volley rang
out, the advancing column was seen to waver. At
the third and fourth volleys the natives in the front
of the column scattered and broke; but those in the
rear came pluckily on.

This was the opening of the ball. Soon we were
engaged upon all sides, and for two hours our atten-
tion was directed to stemming the onrush of hundreds
of natives. Upon seeing them weaken, we would
charge the retreating column with a small force, and
endeavour by excessive punishment to prevent their

‘ )
NTA
\ AY
ALN
SRNR
ANAT S

Waa

A

i;

4

li:

Ze

iz

I

A CHARGE OF WAMSARA

CHAP. V TRAVELS IM EASTERN AFRICA I7I

return. For the first hour of the engagement our fire
seemed to daze the natives, and they would retreat to
a point beyond range. They would there reassemble,
and after being harangued by their chiefs would again
charge us, only to be beaten back again.

We, however, did not get off scot free. There were
many hand-to-hand combats between my men and the
natives. Three of the porters were stretched upon
the ground. By 11 A.m., when the natives left us in
peace, we discovered that twelve more of our band
were wounded, some so seriously as to be unable to
walk, and all seemed to suffer acutely from pain.
Two of my men had been shot through the leg by
poisoned arrows, which throughout the combat had
rained over our little knoll; but in most cases the aim
was so bad, that the natives overshot their mark.
Fortunately the poison placed upon the arrows with
which my men were wounded had not been freshly
applied, and did not dissolve in passing through the
flesh. In each of these two cases the arrow-head
passed through the leg, leaving the shaft transfixed ;
so we had to break off the feathers and pull out the
arrow-stems. However, we then had but little time
to devote to the treatment of the wounded, as we
knew not when the natives would return in greater
numbers, and resume the attack. So we gathered
such supplies of food as we could, with the intention
of continuing our march. By noon we had secured a
number of goats and cattle, and cereals sufficient for
eight days’ rations for our men. At the start we had
great difficulty in driving the cattle and goats— they
were as wild as hawks; but I soon discovered, to

172 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

my great satisfaction, that the Somali and Soudanese
appeared to be accustomed to the cattle-punching
business, and were able to drive the wildest cow
along with comparative ease.

Before setting out on the march I released the old
native I had captured, and sent him to a large band of
warriors I had noticed upon one of the surrounding
hills, with the following message: ‘Tell your people
that they have now learned the futility of harassing the
white man and his caravan upon the march; that they
must be convinced of our power and strength, and of
the further fact, that our medicine was better than theirs.
That we felt we had inflicted sufficient punishment upon
them for their ill-treatment of us, and for the dastardly
manner in which they had massacred the Zanzibari cara-
van some years before. That we were unwilling to de-
stroy any more of their tribe; and, as we had already
supplied ourselves with sufficient food for the journey,
they could rest content that we would no longer remove
even a single grain from their plantations, or one head
of cattle from their kraals. That it was our intention
to march peacefully through their territory, and so it
would be wise for their warriors not to harass us upon
the march. However, should they prove deaf to this
warning, and repeat their attacks upon us, we would
again make use of our mighty medicine, lay waste their
country, and wipe the tribe of Wamsara off the face of
thesearth.”

The old man was delighted to escape, and set off
in the direction indicated. From subsequent events I
doubt very much whether he delivered the message.

Our condition at the time of sending this message

Vv TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 173

could not have struck the casual observer as sufficiently
satisfactory to warrant its confident tone. The caravan
did not number sixty men, all told. Of this number
twelve were wounded, and all but twelve of the able-
bodied were heavily laden. Moreover, we were ham-
pered with the flocks and herds we had captured.

From the little knoll on which we had taken our
stand Motio had pointed out to us, winding up the
side of the range and passing near the summit of the
highest peak, the road over which our route must lie.
This path was bright red in colour, and was distinctly
outlined by the verdure bordering thereon. Motio
assured us that between our position and the peak
the way was intersected by many deep ravines; and
that shortly after leaving the knoll it would lie between
masses of dense undergrowth, well suited for ambush
and surprise.

There was no time to be lost, as the peak which
was the limit of the Wamsara territory was more than
ten miles distant, and noon had already passed. Beyond
the peak lived the Embe; would they receive us in
a friendly manner? It seemed unlikely, but Motio
assured us such would be the case. However, our
hopes were not high, as he had failed to give us the
best information regarding the treatment we should
receive at the hands of the Wamsara. To remain
where we were was impossible. So, reflecting that suff-
cient unto the day is the evil thereof, we hardened
our hearts; I gave the command to fall in, and our
little force moved slowly toward the peak.

On both sides of our line of march great numbers of
natives followed, at distances varying from 100 to 300

174 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

yards. Occasionally an arrow, discharged by some one
in ambush near our flank, would whiz over our heads,
or fall harmlessly on the path in front of us. Then
again, stones as big as Dutch cheeses would come hur-
tling in our direction. These stones were discharged
with great force, and with the slings with which they
were thrown the natives were capable of sending them
a distance of 100 yards. The arrows came with greater
velocity, and had a flight of 150 yards.

The forces of the Wamsara appeared to be divided
into three parts: first the old and middle-aged, who
confined themselves exclusively to the use of the
bow; then the young men, armed with spears, swords,
and war-clubs; then lads of sixteen years and under,
who employed themselves with slings. At one time
and another during this day’s fighting the Wamsara
had from 2000 to 3000 men in the field sufficiently
brave and active to have annihilated a force four times
as great as mine, though armed with rifles; but their
lack of organization and their ignorance of the first
principles of warfare enabled us, as the event proved,
to be more than a match for them.

Our progress was necessarily slow. Upon reaching
the ravines in our path the caravan had to be halted,
scouts sent across them to discover whether or not
natives were lying beyond them in ambush, and then,
having seized that point with toil and difficulty, our
heavily hampered caravan was led across it. On sev-
eral occasions the natives crept up in the bush to
close quarters with us, and then made quick flank
attacks. These attacks were made by small numbers,
however, and we invariably managed to beat them off.

V TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 175

Had they attacked us in these places with large par-
ties, we would have been unable to use our rifles to
advantage, and undoubtedly should have been cut to
pieces to a man. These attacks occurred only dur-
ing the first two hours of our march. The Wamsara
then appeared to change their tactics, and having
convinced themselves of the direction in which our
route lay, they took advantage of the formation of the
country, and attempted to block our way by ambush
and surprise at the ravines. In one of the ambushes
I had a very narrow escape. The path ascended to
a narrow gully, which crossed it at right angles, and
beyond the gully the path changed direction and ran
parallel with it. Before entering the opening in the
neighbourhood of this gully, I halted the caravan. In
company with Motio and two men I advanced to its
edge, and examined the nature of the surface beyond,
to ascertain the feasibility of crossing.

We had just reached the bank, when my attention
was arrested by an old man standing alone on the
other side of the gully, and waving a war-club while
he shouted to us. Motio listened attentively to what
he said, and translated it as follows: ‘“ The Wamsara
recognize the might of the white man and his people.
They wish for no more war. From now on the road
will be free from attack. I am a friend of the white
man and his people, and I tell him this. Let him
have no more fear.”

I instinctively distrusted the words of this prophet,
and raised my rifle to my shoulder. Hardly had
I done so when thud! thud! upon the hard path
around me fell a dozen arrows, with such force that

176 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

after striking they remained fixed upright in the soil.
I had just time to leap behind a neighbouring rock
with my two men, when a volley of arrows struck close
by us. Upon raising my head I distinguished about 100
men at work with their bows, discharging arrows with
such rapidity as they could in my direction. At the
same time, under cover of this thick fire, 200 warriors
were approaching us as silently and rapidly as possible.

A few well-directed shots dispersed the bowmen, but
the spearmen were almost upon us ere I could devote
attention to them. They came on very pluckily, but
were unable to resist the effects of my Winchester
and Karscho’s Mannlicher.

Throughout the marching, owing to the looseness
of our formation caused by the attention we had
to give the flocks, Lieutenant von Hohnel and I
rarely caught sight of one another. His presence at
the rear of the caravan was made known to me,
however, by the familiar sound of his Mannlicher,
which rang out every now and then, and convinced
me that he, likewise, was very busy curbing the
impetuosity of the natives in our rear. Throughout
the engagement I found my Winchester most service-
able, but Lieutenant von Hohnel was convinced of
the superiority of the Mannlicher. Its accuracy of
fire, with its extremely long range, enabled him not
only to disperse those parties immediately upon him,
but also to break up bands of warriors forming at
a distance of 500 yards, for the purpose of making
concerted attack. Had it not been for him and_ his
Mannlicher, I am convinced that this story would
never have been written.

Vv TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 177

On one occasion he was able to save one of our men
by a hair’s breadth. Through some means this man
had become separated from our column, when suddenly
he appeared, running at full speed after us. Behind
and close to him chased four natives with their gleam-
ing spears almost in contact with his back. When
he sighted the caravan, he pluckily stopped, dropped
to a kneeling position, and fired at the nearest native;
but he missed him. He at once sprang to his feet and
away, but with only a few inches separating his back
from the pursuer’s spear. Lieutenant von Hohnel had
just time to kill two of the enemy, whereupon the
others abandoned the chase, ere the man’s foot caught
in some obstacle and he was thrown to the ground.

At four in the afternoon the peak appeared to be
within easy reach, but between it and us stretched a
ravine 100 feet in depth, the sides of which were very
steep. Here the natives made a determined stand, and
it was only by sharp fighting that we were able to force
our way across. At six o'clock we had crossed the
ravine, and camped in the shadow of the peak. There
was no thorn with which to make a zeriba, and we
were compelled temporarily to neglect the wounded,
in order to construct a compound for our cattle, sheep,
and goats. As Lieutenant von Hohnel with a small
force was engaged in guarding the ravine over which
we had just crossed, the duty of attending the wounded
devolved upon me. My treatment, however unskil-
ful, proved satisfactory; for, though many of the
wounds took a long time to heal, none had fatal results.

An impression of the warlike nature of my men will
be conveyed, when I state that all the wounds received

N

178 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

had been inflicted upon the rear. Only one Somali
had been wounded from the front, and he had been
literally covered with stabs from swords and _ spears,
both in front and behind; but the Zanzibari, owing to
their lack of nerve and their bad shooting, had been
unable to face the enemy, and so received no wounds
in front. Had it not been for the good shooting of the
Soudanese and Somali and one or two of the Zanzibari,
we should undoubtedly have been annihilated.

Shortly after dark Lieutenant von Hohnel and the
men with him reached camp. Twenty of the goats
were at once slaughtered, and milk from the cows
filled every available vessel in camp; so that night my
men revelled in plenty. The cold was intense, but
the negroes heeded it not; all night long the camp
rang with laughter and song. They ate, and ate, and
ate until the hour of dawn. Throughout the entire
day Lieutenant von Hohnel and I had had no food
but the few handfuls of parched corn we took with us.
Fortunately we carried two boxes of cola tabloids, a
small number of which proved sufficient to sustain us
throughout the long day of fatigue and anxiety. We
also found them of greatest use in keeping up the
spirits and fortitude of the wounded. Owing to the
wakefulness of our men that night, we were not
attacked by the natives; and at six o'clock in the
morning, Friday, January 27, we were again under
way.

Motio told us that we had reached the country of
the Embe, where we hoped to find a peaceful reception
and friendly treatment. Before setting out on the
march we served out the remaining ammunition, and

Vv TRAVELS [NM EASTERN AFRICA 179

I found, much to my disgust, that the porters were
reduced to six cartridges per man; that the Soudanese
and Somali had but twenty rounds each; while Lieu-
tenant von Hohnel and I had, respectively, twenty-five
and seventeen. With such a small supply of ammu-
nition on hand, it can well be imagined that we did
not look forward with confidence to the issue of any
attack by the natives.

The road led us under the peak, and in many places
was cut by deep ravines and small streams. After two
hours’ marching we crossed one of these ravines, and
on the opposite side were met by a large band of Embe.
They greeted us with smiling faces, and had tufts of
grass and small branches tucked in their greasy locks
as signs of peace. We gladly accepted their overtures,
clapped them heartily upon the back, and cheerfully
followed them as they preceded us upon the road. In
crossing the ravine the donkeys and cattle caused some
delay, and upon reaching an open space I halted the
caravan, in order to give Lieutenant von Hoéhnel and
the rear-guard an opportunity to close up.

Motio was still bound and guarded by our standard-
bearer. His behaviour throughout the preceding day
had been gallant in the extreme. He exhibited no
sign of fear, and when the battle raged hottest, shouted
defiantly to the Wamsara, and clapped his hands with
savage glee upon seeing them beaten off. After the
first few hours of sharp fighting he could not under-
stand our moderation at taking only what we needed;
but eagerly urged upon us the advantage of marching
behind a small hill on our right, where, he said, the
country teemed with flocks and herds. He said the

180 THROUGH JUNGLE. AND DESERT CHAP.

small number we had taken was not nearly enough
even to reward him for his services, and that people
like ourselves should not be satisfied with anything
less than all we could possibly take. Upon entering
the territory of the Embe, he had asked to be released
from his bonds. I told him this would be very danger-
ous for him, as his home was some distance over the
Embe country, and should we be forced to fight the
Embe, they would take revenge upon him after our

I
Y
wh fA ME dW egy

MODE OF CARRYING THE SICK

departure; but that, as they could see he was our pris-
oner, bound, and unable to make his escape from us,
he would be absolved from our actions. This struck
him as an excellent argument, and throughout our stay
with the Embe (a period of five days) he never un-
fastened the rope from his body, but walked about
camp with the end trailing on the ground, seemingly
proud of his appendage, and looking for all the world
like one of his arboreal ancestors.

Upon reaching an open glade, we had a palaver with
the Embe and assured them of our peaceful intentions.

Vv TRAVELS IM EASTERN AFRICA 181

I told them that the fame of their good actions and
sterling worth had reached us in far-distant Europe,
and that it was my hope that throughout my stay
among them they would treat me in such a manner
that I should be able to take to the white people whom
I represented a favourable account of them; whereupon,
trade would be opened with them, and they would grow
opulent, and amass great flocks and herds. They
listened to my words with evident pleasure, and seemed
only too anxious to assist me on my way; but they
did not appear overjoyed at the news that I intended
to remain a few days in their country.

This, however, was absolutely necessary. Even the
short distance we had marched this day had been most
painful to the wounded, and they had continually cried
to me ina most pitiable manner on the march, either
to stop, or go on and leave them behind. Either course
was not to be considered: I could not camp in the
neighbourhood of the Wamsara, and I knew that, as
soon as I reached the heart of the Embe country, I
should be forced to remain until my wounded could
recover strength.

By ten o'clock Lieutenant von Hohnel had caught
up with the caravan, and we again set out. From
this point the road was downhill. We had crossed
the saddle of the range, and had an easy descent to
the Mackenzie River, where we expected to find our
old camp. At noon I crossed a fair-sized stream, and
halted to give the men and cattle time to drink, as
Motio assured me it would be four hours before we
reached other water. This done, we again took up
the march, which lay across what might almost be

182 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

termed a plain. It was the eastern slope of the Jom-
beni range, which is very gradual. High to our right
and left towered green hills, dotted with men, goats,
and cattle. Here and there beside the path grew
clumps of deciduous trees covered with flowers. It
seemed to be a country in every way suitable for
Europeans.

The Embe who accompanied us had most cheerfully
assisted us upon the march; but had appeared, to me
at least, somewhat nervous, whenever we made the
slightest halt. If I stopped for a moment, to enable
the caravan to close up, they danced with impatience,
and beckoned me to hurry on. I soon discovered the
cause of their anxiety. We had just finished watering
our cattle at the stream, when from a high hill on
our right (one of the northern spurs of the peak) came
a wild cry. Looking up, I saw 300 warriors, decked
in their most terrifying war costume, dashing fiercely
down the hill toward us. Motio shouted to me:
“They are Wamsara! Kill them! Kill them!” The
elders of the Embe clung to me, and urged me not
to fire. I had no intention of shedding blood in this
country, but the case seemed difficult to meet without
such action.

I drew my men up in a circle, in the centre of
which I placed my cattle; and then I ran back to
Lieutenant von Hohnel, who was accompanied by only
two men. With me went Motio and six of the elders
of the Embe. Through Motio I explained to them
that unless they checked the charge of these warriors,
I should be compelled to open fire; and told them
that I was as anxious as they to avoid all trouble in

Vv TRAVELS [N EASTERN AFRICA 1383

a friendly territory. I had just reached Lieutenant
von Hohnel (the warriors in the meantime having
advanced rapidly), when the Embe elders shouted to
them to halt. The young men listened to them, and
stopped at a point about 150 yards distant from where
we stood, panting with excitement, and their eyes flash-
ing fire.

I was glad to hear the old men insist that we were
the friends of the Embe, and that they would not per-
mit the Wamsara to attack us in their territory. At
the end of the harangue of these elders, the warriors
suddenly wheeled to the right and started off, not back
toward their own country, but in a direction parallel
to the route which we were to pursue. Motio said
that we had missed an opportunity, and that these
men would now attack us at night, when we would
not be half so able to cope with them as in an
open, during daylight.

By four in the afternoon we reached a small native
compound formed of a low, wattle fence, in which we
gladly made our camp, tired out with the events of
the past two days. About us the country was open,
so that we could guard against attack, and we were
told that water was not far distant; so the place
seemed as suitable as any for the stay we intended
making in the Embe territory. Hundreds of natives
gathered about our camp and eyed us curiously. In
contrast with their number our party looked pitiably
small. We counted on the moral effect of our victory
over the Wamsara to deter the Embe from attacking
us; and we also hoped to arouse their mercantile in-
stincts by a display of our trading-goods.

184 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

After reaching camp I took thirty armed men, and
went in search of firewood and water. Water we
found within half a mile, but the firewood we were
able to secure was of a most miserable quality; and
as throughout the night the temperature was but
53° F., we suffered very much from lack of good
fires. In the early morning we awoke, eager to ascer-
tain whether the feelings of the Embe, as evinced on
the previous day, had undergone a change during
the night.

The little compound in which we pitched our camp
had formerly contained goats. As it was not par-
ticularly strong or in good repair, we set most of our
men at work building it up, and making it strong in
appearance, at least. The spot where we were camped
was beautiful; it was at the end of a small valley
hemmed in by gently sloping hills covered with velvety
green turf. Behind our camp were thick growths of
banana trees, and small patches given up to the culti-
vation of manioc, cassava, and yams.

At eight o’clock two of the elders, who said they
were the proprietors of our camp, appeared and brought
with them a large gourd containing delicious honey,
also some sugar-cane and a bushel of millet. The
cane of the sugar grown there is not of good size,
and has a very poor flavour; the honey, however, of
the consistency of dough, was delicious. It was nearly
white in colour, and possessed a fine flavour. We loaded
our visitors with presents, after receiving which they
told us that the Embe wished to make blood-brothers
with us. This ceremony is termed by these people
“muma.” We told them we were quite ready when

Vv TRAVELS [NM EASTERN AFRICA 185

they were. They said the ceremony would take place
the following day. ;

We slept comfortably that night. Shortly after rising
the following morning some elders appeared, and told
us they were ready to arrange the preliminaries of the
blood-brotherhood; so I went with Motio to confer
with them. I found about 100 of them gathered in
a circle, at the edge of which I placed my chair.
Silence ensued. Presently an old man with a long
stick in his hands arose, and in loud and_ boisterous
tones harangued for about ten minutes. The bur-
den of his speech was: “Why have you, the La-
shomba (traders), taken cattle from our brothers the
Wamsara?) Why have you killed their young men?”

I told Motio to translate my reply into the most
vigorous language he could command: “ We fought
the Wamsara because they fought us; they fought us
because they are bad people. You, the Embe, know
they are bad. Who, two years ago, slew an entire
caravan of Lashomba and took all their goods and
ivory? Who, but the Wamsara? The punishment
we inflicted upon them in some measure avenged their
murder of the traders. I hoped they would profit by
the lesson, and in future meet all traders, whether
black or white, in a friendly manner. We, as are all
traders, are friends of the Embe; but between us and
the Wamsara there could be no peace until they made
restitution for the Lashomba they slew, and the cattle
and ivory they stole from them.”

This reply seemed to make a great impression upon
them, and “True! True!” was heard on all sides.
After some further talk of a much more friendly and

186 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

peaceable strain, the elders agreed to sell food, after
muma had been made. They then went away.

At 11 a.m. I attended another palaver. This time
I found nearly 400 natives assembled, mostly warriors
and old men. They were seated in a circle, on the
edge of which Lieutenant von Hodhnel and I placed
our chairs. We were accompanied by Motio, a Masai
interpreter, and three Somali. After a preliminary con-
ference I learned that this was not to be the muma;
but that, ere the blood-brotherhood could be made,
a preliminary .ceremony had to be performed for the
purpose of convincing the Embe of our good inten-
tions, and to clean the road over which our feet had
passed. They said we had entered their country prior
to making a treaty with them, and in consequence each
footstep we had taken from the line between their
territory and that of the Wamsara might, for all they
knew, have some dire effect upon their crops. They
said, however, that their suspicions would be allayed,
should a male sheep be slaughtered, and portions of
its body strewn over the path by which we had come.
This was soon done, and the old men-went gayly away,
promising to return in the afternoon of that day, and
perform the impressive and imposing ceremony of blood-
brotherhood.

It is politic to conform, as far as possible, to the
native customs, at least until the natives are fully
convinced of one’s good intentions. They place no
value whatever upon promises; but all I have met in
East Africa seem to attach great importance to any
agieement, which they bind either by the killing of
a goat or sheep, or by drinking milk, exchanging

V TRAVELS [NV EASTERN AFRICA 187

blood, or some one of their many other customs. I
have never found that the natives construed in any
but a favourable manner the white man’s willingness
to adopt their customs in ratifying an oath; and al-
though it is annoying, and often a great waste of
time, to submit to the tedious and often disgusting
ceremonies connected with the making of blood-
brotherhood and the ratification of oaths, still, one’s
time cannot be said to be wholly wasted, for there is
no better opportunity of learning native customs and
studying native character than at these ceremonies.

At 4 P.M. word was brought to us that the natives
wished to go through the ceremony of binding us
together forever in the ties of blood-brotherhood.
This time we found about 600 warriors and old men
assembled; but when we noticed that one and all of
them had come armed, we were disagreeably affected
by the sight. For the gathering more resembled a
hostile demonstration than one for the ratification of
a treaty of unending peace.

On this occasion a young male goat was sacrificed.
Some elders, who seemed to be impressed with a
sense of their importance, together with Lieutenant
von Hodhnel and I, seized and held on to the hind
legs of the goat, and its head was pointed carefully
in the direction of the highest peak of the range.
While the sacrifice was going on, the two elders,
Lieutenant von Hohnel, and I gave vent in the most
solemn manner to the direst curses and most vindic-
tive threats, which, however, were to take effect only
im) the “event of treachery on the part of the other
high contracting party to this treaty. This portion

188 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT ' CHAP.

of the ceremony concluded, a bit of the goat was
roasted over a quickly improvised fire, and the con-
tracting parties partook of this flesh.

The fact that during the sacrifice the head of the
beast was pointed with such accuracy toward the
highest peak was significant. I noticed that through-
out East Africa the natives seemed to attach a cer-
tain religious sanctity and importance to anything of
extraordinary size. In the island of Zanzibar, where
the hills are low, the natives reverence the baobab
tree, which is the largest growing upon the island,
and they consider it haunted by genii and devils.
In all portions of the country where hills are not
found, they worship some great stone or tall tree.
The natives in the neighbourhood of Kilimanjiro call
the mountain “God’s Home,” and direct their prayers
to the deity they suppose to occupy its snow-clad
peak. The Kikuyu, who inhabit the slopes of Mount
Kenya, have the same reverence for their mountain.
We found that the Embe, although from the top-
most range of the Jombeni Mountains Kenya was
visible, preferred to attach importance to their local
peak, rather than the great mountain which almost
overshadowed it.

Both the Wamsara and the Embe, if one may
judge from their appearance, rarely indulge in baths.
In place of ablutions with water, which there is
plentiful, they anoint their skins with as much castor
oil or other grease as they can obtain and smear
upon themselves. The hides with which they are
clothed are continued in unremitting active service
for many years, and in consequence the odour arising

Vv TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 189

from them is not pleasing. Bearing this in mind, it
can easily be imagined that both Lieutenant von
Hohnel and I hastened through the process of blood-
brotherhood with all despatch, and it was with a feel-
ing of absolute relief that we returned toward camp.
Even there we were not destined to breathe the pure
air a long time, for the hedge was soon surrounded by
hundreds of peering natives, who successfully warded
off the evening breeze. To add to this, our new-
found brothers insisted upon entering our compound,
and even endeavoured to seat themselves upon our
beds. Needless to say, from this they were gently
but firmly dissuaded. Their talk was now of trade,
and they were full of promises to supply the wants
of the entire caravan in order to prove their friend-
ship for us. We showed them our trading-goods,
and willingly entered into the spirit of the game;
knowing that, as soon as we had established trade
relations with these people, there would be no dan-
ger of hostility from them. It was sunset ere the
camp was at length free from these disagreeable
visitors.

The natives of these mountains are very fond of
chewing the leaves and tender shoots of a tree here
called “Miraa.” This tree is similar to one found in
Arabia and Abyssinia, which has already been de-
scribed by botanists, and is called in Arabic, “ Kaht.”
The Arabs, Abyssinians, and Somali resident at Aden
chew only the green leaves of this tree; but the natives
of the Jombeni range carefully strip the leaves from
the twig, and then chew only the green bark. The
juice of this plant is highly stimulating to the nervous

Igo THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

system, and, among other effects, it seems to produce
excessive activity of the brain. By constant chewing
of this bark one may go several days without sleep,
and yet feel no great ill effects, as the reaction does
not appear to be violent. The older men among the
inhabitants of the Jombeni range are unable to carry
on any business whatever without the spur derived
from chewing this plant. They carry a small sheaf
of the twigs in a bag, bound together, and covered
with a strip of banana leaf, which, upon entering into
conversation, they at once produce and begin to chew.
I found that a very small quantity of the bark was
sufficient to produce in me a considerable elevation
of spirits, but some hours after eating it I perceived a
distinct feeling of lassitude. The young men among
the natives are not allowed to eat it, the reason as-
signed for this restriction being that if the young men
were allowed freely to indulge in this plant, they would
be apt to remain awake at night, and be tempted, under
cover of the darkness, to gratify desires which the light
of day forces them to curb.

The Embe are not nearly so fine looking as the
Wamsara. I account for this by the fact that among
the Wamsara are settled many Masai. The cross
seems to have added greatly to the vigour of the
tribe, as well as to have much improved their appear-
ance. Then, too, the Wamsara are nearer the plain.
It may be stated as a law in that portion of Africa
which I have visited, that the inhabitants of the plains
are better looking and have finer physical develop-
ment than the natives living on the peaks or moun-
tain tops. The Wamsara possess larger herds than

Vv TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA I9I

the Embe; but, on the other hand, the Embe are
by far the more industrious cultivators. Although
these tribes may be said to be quite distinct from
each other, still the friendliest relations are main-
tained between them. Trading is carried on daily
atma spomnt near the frontier. ihe Embe bring the
products of their plantations and exchange them for
meat and skins produced by the flocks of the Wam-
sara. These, a few years before, possessed many hun-
dred head of cattle; but we found at the time of our
visit that their flocks had been largely reduced by
some plague (I suppose pleuro-pneumonia), and they
were then forced to undertake a little agriculture.

We heard that a tribe called Daitcho inhabited the
eastern slopes of the range lying between the Embe
country and the plain where the Mackenzie River
winds its way. These people are said to be on excel-
lent terms with traders, and were visited several times
a year by parties of Arabs and Zanzibari, who jour-
neyed to them in search of ivory.

On the following day the market was not nearly so
brisk as we had hoped would be the result of the
blood-brotherhood, but sufficient food was brought
to enable my men to revel in a quantity of fresh
vegetables.

Our little herd of cattle and goats, together with
our donkeys, were pastured in a valley adjoining our
camp, and as a precaution. we had it guarded by
thirty of our best men. When these men left camp,
it appeared almost deserted; for the wounded were
concealed in their tents, and the few people remain-
ing presented a ridiculous contrast, as regards number,

192 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT’ CHAP.

with the hundreds of peering natives who hovered
about the compound.

Upon awakening the following morning, the Sou-
danese, who had been on watch the night before,
brought to us six freshly poisoned arrows, which they
said had been discharged at the camp during the
night. We sent word to our blood-brothers to come
to us, ostensibly for a pleasant conversation, but in
reality to question them about the arrows, and to ask
why there was no more trade stirring. Towards
afternoon they came. After presenting them with a
goodly gift, we remonstrated with them on the score
of their deficiencies, and when the climax of our com-
plaints was reached we produced the arrows. Upon
seeing them, our blood-brothers exchanged glances one
with the other, and seemed loath to speak. Upon
being questioned by Motio, they said that doubtless
“the arrows had been left in our camp the day before
by some careless warrior; and they absolutely refused
to admit the possibility of any of their tribe having
discharged them with ill-intent toward their newly
made brothers. We told them this explanation was
quite satisfactory; but should we find any more ar-
rows in the neighbourhood of our camp, we should
be forced to construe the same into an evidence of
hostility, and take necessary measures to prevent its
Recurrence:

They went away full of promises of an increased
market and protestations of warmest friendship. That
night Motio came to us and told us that the blood-
brotherhood we had made with such pains and
patience was purely local in scope, and_ established

Vv TRAVELS IM EASTERN AFRICA 193

friendly relations with only the people in the valley
in which we were encamped. He said that he had
learned during the day that the inhabitants of the
hills, and in fact nearly all the members of the Embe
tribe, regarded us with anything but friendly eyes,
and since our earliest arrival, had been busy with
preparations to gather a sufficient force from the
Wamsara and neighbouring tribes to fall upon and
annihilate us. His advice was to get out of the
country at once; in fact, he thought matters so seri-
ous that we should leave that night. But the state
of our wounded rendered this impossible; moreover,
we had expected to buy many donkeys, for we had
seen large numbers of these animals during our
march through the Embe country.

The next day not a native visited our camp until
late in the evening. All about the surrounding hills,
however, cries were heard, which Motio assured us
boded no good. Towards sundown, about twelve old
men, including in their number those elders with whom
we had entered into blood-brotherhood, approached
camp, leading a female donkey and a ewe. Upon
seeing them, Motio told us that, judging from the
sounds heard during the day, a large gathering must
have taken place just behind one of the neighbouring
hills. The old men entered the camp with many
protestations of friendship, and presented us with a
pot of honey, which emitted so vile an odour that we
at once suspected poison, and so hid it in our tent.

These wily old savages possessed an astonishing
amount of diplomacy; their faces were wreathed in

oily smiles, and they passed among my men endeav-
oO

194. THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

ouring by gestures and pleasant looks to inspire them
with the feeling that they were their best friends.
After they had visited with curiosity every portion of
our camp they returned to our tent; whereupon, Lieu-
tenant von Hohnel and I, bent on showing them what
hospitality we could, offered them some of the honey
they had just brought. They declined in their polit-
est manner to partake of it, and said it was not their
custom in any way to decrease the value of a gift
which they had made to their friends. I cannot say
this action on their part inspired us with greater
faith in them. They then expressed a desire that we
should keep in our camp during the night the female
sheep and donkey they had brought with them, offer-
ing no explanation for their odd request. They also
endeavoured to procure a fez from one of my Sou-
danese. We failed to understand their purpose in
making such a request, until two of our Masai inter-
preters came to us in an excited manner, saying that
this which the Embe wished us to do would abso-
lutely deprive our caravan of all the fighting power
it possessed. They said that should one of the
attacking party wear upon his head a hat worn by
one of our men, they would at once become imbued
with all the courage of our party. Further, that if
for one night they should leave in our camp two
female animals, over which they had doubtless spoken
many words of magic import, these animals upon
being removed from the camp in the morning would
draw with them the vigour and courage of my men.
I was then struck by the marked similarity between
my own followers and the savages with whom we were

Vv TRAVELS [IN EASTERN AFRICA 195

dealing. What little intelligence my men seemed to
possess, and what skill they had acquired from contact
with Arabs and Europeans, had not in any way re-
moved them from the mental condition of the most
primitive native. They were equally superstitious. At
the same time it occurred to me, that if my men
really possessed these superstitious ideas, and were
convinced of the power worked by the medicine-man
of these people, if we should treat the matter lightly,
and permit these elders to do as they wished, our
men might actually lose courage; so we politely but

PORTERS ON THE MARCH

firmly refused to entertain the request of the savages.
But in order to conceal from them our plans, we as-
sured them that we were in every way delighted with
the Embe, and that it was our intention to remain
with them for many days, in the hope of convincing
them of our friendliness, and of profiting not only by
their wise counsels, but also in the way of trade.

Upon learning our professed determination to spend
some days in their country, the faces of the old men
took on a most pleased expression. This satisfied us
that, whatever their purpose, they were not prepared
at that time to carry it to execution.

196 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

As the sun set, our minds were filled with forebod-
ing; would the natives attack us that night? The
moon was just at the full. Should the natives prove
treacherous, we felt confident, even with our small sup-
ply of ammunition, that we should be able to hold our
own as long as the ammunition lasted. But, bearing
in mind the small quantity of ammunition we then had,
the number of wounded, and the inexperience of the
majority of our force, we did not look forward with
high hopes to the outcome of such a conflict.

All that night Lieutenant von Hoéhnel and I took
watch by turns, each watch lasting two hours. While
on watch I sat near the gate of our zeriba in a chair.
Before me stretched a little valley, gleaming in the
moonlight, and surrounded on all sides by hills. In
the immediate neighbourhood of the camp all was
still, save for the tramp of the night-watch outside the
zeriba, and the occasional groan of a wounded man
in his tent; but from behind the hills which sur-
rounded us, every moment there rang out loud cries,
as if the whole country was up in arms, and engaged
in fiercest conflict.

Motio showed no inclination to sleep, and I whiled
away the weary hours of my watch in conversation
with him. He did not think the natives would attack
that night, but he said: “There is no doubt about
it; they are getting ready, and in a day or two they
will be upon us. The cries heard echoing from hill
to hill can be explained in but one way: there are
many strangers, young men, warriors, now gathered
together, and encamped in the immediate neighbour-
hood of our zeriba. These men, attracted by the

Vv TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 197

promise of profitable attack upon your caravan, have
brought with them but few supplies; and in order
to satisfy their hunger they are robbing the planta-
tions in the neighbourhood. The cries are made by
the owners of the plantations, shouting from one to
the other to keep watch against the thieves.”

I asked Motio if he wished to remain with his peo-
plese «said, no; he hiked it much better’ with .us.
With us he had no work, and with the exception
of the time spent on the desert he was well fed.
And then he said that I was a great medicine-man
and could, if I willed it, cure him of his disease.
He said he was not afraid to return to his people;
he was perfectly confident that, if I left him there,
I would give him medicine to thwart all their evil
designs against him.

We had really become fond of this man. His con-
fidence in us was so great, and his willingness to per-
form any service we might require of him was so
remarkable, that we came to look upon him almost
as a friend, and lost sight of the fact that the poor
creature was suffering from some disagreeable com-
plaint. We decided that, should we not be attacked
during the night (in which case our plans would very
much depend upon the outcome of the struggle), we
should set out at early dawn, and endeavour to escape
from the neighbourhood of a people bent upon our
destruction.

At 4.30 the camp was aroused, and all preparations
made for departure. Shortly after five a thick mist,
like a pall, settled down upon the valley, and effect-
ually screened us from prying eyes; so that our prep-

198 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

arations were all made in secret. At six o’clock the
caravan was drawn up in the usual order, and I en-
deavoured to inspire my men with a few words, telling
them that, though doubtless we should meet with
some difficulty in getting out of the country, never-
theless they might rest assured that my efforts would
meet with success, and not one of them be injured.
While I was addressing them, all eyed me eagerly,
and, when I had concluded, one of the porters (Mda-
homa) grinned light-heartedly, and said: “We are not
afraid of the Washenzie (savages). Have we not seen
master make a fog, so that we could get out of the
country in safety; and haven’t we seen him during
the past night walking up and down in the camp
making medicine against the Embe people? Why
should we be afraid? Haya watu; songo mbele!”
(Onward, men; push to the front!)

He spoke these words in a low tone, but they
were heard by every member of the caravan and pro-
duced at least one marked effect: no man wished
to be the last out of the camp. We had just left the
zeriba, and were about to plunge into the banana
plantations, when the fog lifted. A solitary native
spied us, and raised a mighty shout, to warn his
brothers of our departure. Soon from hill to hill
echoed cries, among which we could distinguish the
words: “ Lashomba are going! Warriors, run to the
boma.”

I asked Motio what “boma” meant; and he in-
formed me that it was a word used throughout East
Africa to signify a zeriba or camp. He said that
between us and the desert we so longed to reach

Vv TRAVELS [N EASTERN AFRICA 199

there was a strong camp, always inhabited by a band
of warriors, which was used as an outpost to prevent
attacks from the plains; and that we doubtless should
recelve some opposition at that point, as it lay directly
in our path.

Our route lay between banana plantations, and
along a narrow road overhung with the branches of
trees. Fifty determined boys could have cut our
caravan to pieces at that point without difficulty, for
there was no room to use our rifles, and the number
of beasts we had rendered our formation anything
but regular. We were almost persuaded to leave
behind us the profits of our victory over the Wam-
sara; but we realized that the effect of such action
would have been entirely to obliterate the good ac-
complished by our victory. -It would have had the
moral effect of a victory for them, and the next Euro-
pean who visited the Jombeni range would meet with
a warm reception.

At intervals along our route we came to an open
bit of pasture land, where the caravan was halted and
brought up into as reguiar formation as was possible
under the circumstances. The experience gained by
my porters in the few days immediately preceding,
added to the wholesome fear they had of the natives,
made them march up briskly and keep well together.

We had marched for two hours, and I began to
think that the boma of which Motio had spoken
was a myth, when I saw a large number of older
men and boys gathered in front of us. I told Motio
to wish them a hearty farewell, to tell them that we
should return very soon to their country, and also that

200 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

I had had a dream during the night that some of the
Embe people were inspired with treacherous ideas;
so that I was afraid that the blood-brotherhood just
made would be broken by some of their people; in
which case they knew what would result. Then I
advised them to run and tell the young men _ the
folly of attacking us. The eyes of these people rested
upon Motio while he was speaking; but as soon as
he ceased, they fixed their eyes upon the cattle and
flocks. These were the coveted prize. Had they
taken them, not one would have reached the Wam-
sara. A woman is quoted in the East African mar-
ket at only five goats (in the Embe country), and the
value of a cow is equivalent, in the minds of these
people, to the lives of ten men.

On we pressed, and soon came in sight of the boma
of which Motio had spoken. It was deserted by all
but a few old men, and we hoped our warning had
proved effectual. Not so, however. Just as we had
passed the boma, and entered a path, somewhat wider,
it is true, than the one along which we had just passed,
but edged on both sides with a hedge which made
ambush easy, one of my men behind me_ shouted:
“Washenzie” (savages), and pointed to the hedge on
our left. Through the thick branches I could distin-
guish a large number of painted warriors, peering with
fierce eyes over the rims of their many-coloured shields.
In a moment a number of large stones and arrows flew
over our heads. Crack! went our rifles, and the natives
broke and fled. Not fifty yards beyond where we had
seen these warriors, we were met by a small body of
determined young men, charging down the path toward

Vv TRAVELS [IN EASTERN AFRICA 201

us. After a short but sharp conflict they were dis-
persed. The air was filled with the sound of whizzing
arrows and branches crackling, as they were broken by
the hurtling stones. However, the aim of the natives
was not accurate, and no one of our band was hit.

Just before nine o’clock we emerged from the bush,
and saw stretched at our feet the plain, across which we
could faintly discern the dark-green line showing the
course of the Mackenzie. As we entered upon this
open plain, we gave vent to three hearty cheers. In
the open country we felt capable of dealing with any
number of savages. From the frontier of the Embe
country we could see a small cone near our last camp
on the Mackenzie River; so without delay we headed
in that direction.

The grass on the eastern slopes of the Jombeni range
grows to a great height, and we had the utmost diff-
culty in forcing our way through it. Moreover, the
sides of the mountain were cut up with innumerable
deep and dried watercourses, which so hindered our
march that it was 5 p.m. (eleven hours) from the time
we left our camp until we reached our old zeriba. We
were completely worn out, and went to sleep without
so much as setting a night-watch.

We knew that we had sufficient grain to last us
throughout the march to Hameye, but not sufficient
to permit us to spend much time on the march; so
we set out on the next day.

Our march back to Hameye was uneventful. We
succeeded in killing some zebra and antelope, which
proved a welcome addition to our diet. Upon reach-
ing the mouth of the Mackenzie, we found a large party

202 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP. V

of Pokomo, which had left Hameye for the purpose of
hippopotamus-hunting. As these people possess no
flocks or herds, they are passionately fond of meat, and
make occasional excursions into the interior for the
purpose of gratifying their appetite for flesh.

The Pokomo gave a gloomy account of the state of
affairs at our zeriba at Hameye. From what they said,
we gathered that everybody, with the exception of George
and a few men, had either died or deserted, and that
all the cattle, camels, and donkeys we had left behind
had disappeared. We were not absolutely cast down by
this statement, for we had learned that the natives in
giving accounts of the affairs of others were wont to dwell
at great length upon the gloomy side of the picture.

At 4 p.m. on the i1oth of February we caught a
glimpse of the Stars and Stripes proudly waving in the
breeze over our camp at Hameye. We welcomed this
pleasant sight with a salute of sixty rifles from my
men. Directly, with joyful shouts, the porters who had
remained in camp at Hameye rushed forth to greet
their companions, whom they had given up for lost.
Their appearance was sleek, and in marked contrast
with that of the men who had accompanied me. Soon
George appeared, looking pale but fat, and it was with
the pleasantest feelings that we grasped hands.

“What is the news, George?” I asked.

“Pretty good, sir,” was the reply; “all the oxen are
dead, only three cattle are left, and five camels, and the
donkeys are dying fast.”

One would scarcely term this ‘“ good news,” but it was
not sufficiently bad to dampen the pleasure of again
reaching Hameye.

CHAPTER. Vi

Durinc our absence up-country, the men we had
sent to the coast had returned. They had captured
two runaways and brought with them two Gallas, one
to take our letters back to the coast, and the other
to accompany us as interpreter, should we meet with
Galla farther up-country.

These men reported that they had seen a large
expedition at our camp in Mkonumbi, in charge of
Captain Villiers, of the Guards, and two other officers.
They said they had seen 200 Somali and 150 Abys-
sinians, and that preparations were being made for an
expedition on a gigantic scale. We rejoiced that we
had 200 miles’ start of this expedition; for although
Africa is a large place, there never seems to be room
for two expeditions to work in the same part of it.
It happened, however, that this expedition under Cap-
tain Villiers met with a variety of mishaps, and was
prevented from ever getting more than six days’
march from the coast.

During our absence from Hameye George had em-
ployed the men in improving the zeriba and cultivat-
ing a twenty-acre plantation of corn and millet. The
grain was not then ripe, but we knew it would prove
a boon to our friends the Pokomo. The reduction of
the number of our camels to five was a serious loss;

203

204 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

and this, together with the loss of our load-bearing
oxen and the sickness prevalent among the donkeys,
reduced our means of transport in a marked degree.

The appearance of the country about Hameye had
seemed to us in every way adapted for the pasturing
of cattle and beasts of all sorts; but evidently such is
not the case. George reported that soon after our
departure the animals had done anything but well.
Whether they had been bitten by flies, or made sick
by drinking the waters of the Tana, will never be

LOADING CAMELS

Pile of ammunition in the foreground

known; but I think it is probable that the cattle and
donkeys died from fly-bite. The camels doubtless ate
some plant poisonous to them. The Somali have
often told me that in their country they are partic-
ularly careful to see that the camels eat nothing but
dry grass.

After reaching Hameye I distributed among the
men who had followed me to Lorian many presents;
and allowed each of them, instead of the regular
ration, as much as they could eat: they were also
given a complete holiday from all work. Under these

vI TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 205

conditions they picked up wonderfully, and a few days
after our arrival it was difficult to distinguish between
the men who had remained at Hameye and those
who had undergone the hardships of the up-country
trip.

Our feelings of disappointment at not having found
the Rendile or a lake were not mitigated by the fact
that ten valuable lives had been sacrificed in this
effort at discovery. All but one of the men who had
died or disappeared had been porters, and this meant
a reduction in our facilities for transport, already much
lessened by the death of the animals.

Upon reaching Hameye I was at once prostrated
by sickness. I suffered continually from fever caused
by congestion of the liver, and for two weeks was
confined to my bed. Having discovered that between
the Jombeni range and Hameye there was no food, I
sent George and sixty men shortly after my arrival
to make a food station six days’ march along the
road. “After ten days he returned,-and reported ten
desertions. We hunted high and low for the desert-
ers, and eventually succeeded in capturing six. When
we questioned them as to the cause of their desertion,
they replied that they had heard the country in front
was bad and full of dangers, and they wished to return
to the coast.

Of course the men who had been with us on the
trip, in order to increase their prowess in the eyes of
their brethren, had unstintingly exaggerated the trials
and difficulties through which they had passed. This,
after the life of ease to which the men who had re-
mained behind at Hameye had grown accustomed, did

206 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

not inspire them with a desire to proceed further upon
the journey.

The means of transport being so much reduced by
these causes, I broke some of the cattle captured from
the Wamsara, and soon found them trained to bear
two light loads each. We reduced our stores as much
as possible, as we were unable to carry all we had.
We distributed as gifts among our men such of the
goods as they could carry without reducing their ca-
pacity for burden-bearing. We destroyed our canvas
boat, and gave to the Pokomo and the Galla in the
neighbourhood many loads of wire and beads. But even
then, in order not to weaken the effectiveness of our
caravan by throwing away too much, we were forced
to increase the weight.of the loads to be carried by
the porters. From Hameye we sent back to the coast
our entomological collections to be forwarded home.

Before we left Hameye all but two of the camels
died, and these two were very weak, bidding fair soon
to follow their fellows. When the Pokomo had left
for the coast, Sadi, who had been in charge of them,
left behind a pariah bitch, which, during our absence
at Lorian, gave birth to five puppies. We kept three
of them —two bitches and a dog. Felix, the fox-
terrier bought at Aden, was their sire. As will appear
later, these puppies proved most useful to us. I think
I am safe in saying that a cross between a fox-terrier
and a native dog is best suited for almost all purposes
in Africa. The touch of native blood enables them
to withstand the heat without much difficulty, and
they seem to inherit the qualities of determination
and pluck from the fox-terrier cross.

VI TRAVELS [VN EASTERN AFRICA 207

By March 8 all was ready for departure, and at
eight o'clock on the following morning we set out.
Before starting, I warned my men against attempts
at desertion. A few of them shouted, “ Never fear;
we will follow you,” but the majority looked forward
with no pleasure to the toils of load-carrying after
their long rest at Hameye, and it was with foreboding
that I beheld the looks of discontent upon most. of

Cf

A aie ay)
* al 4 .
BAYAN,

UNLOADING CAMELS

Showing mode of carrying Berthon boat

their faces, and heard a low murmur run through my
caravan. My horse (Lieutenant von Héhnel’s did not
live even to reach Lorian) was so ill that he was
unable to carry me; so I hobbled along at the head
of my men, supported by a stick.

The sun was intensely hot, and as the porters from
their long rest were unfit for the march, they sweated
and groaned beneath the weight of their burdens.
Shortly after noon I camped under some dhum palms
near the river, and by 3.30 all the men were in camp,

208 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

with the exception of one runaway, who could not be
found. George reported that the cattle went badly,
and that about thirty of the men showed a disposition
to throw down their burdens and bolt. It was a hard
day, but I knew the next would be no easier. Here
we left one of our camels, and threw away the loads
it had carried. George worked untiringly at the loads,
lessening some and increasing others. I knew that
we should be able to start on the following day, but
it remained with the men whether we should get our
loads to camp or not.

That night, Hamidi, the headman of the porters,
who had remained behind with George at Hameye,
and who seemed somewhat jealous of the prowess of
Mohamadi upon the Lorian journey, desiring to prove
his efficiency, gave the men a long and almost elo-
quent address, in which he urged them not to run
away and desert the expedition. At the close of his
speech the camp rang with cheers and cries of “ Eh
wallahs ” (Swahili words, indicating hearty assent). But,
alas, although I knew that these poor creatures had
no premeditated purpose to desert, yet experience had
taught me that, if during the heat of the day, while
marching, they found their burdens heavy, they would
throw them down and run off.

The following morning we made an early start, and
marched briskly for three and one-half hours, when
we reached a swamp where camp was made. Hours
after I arrived at this spot, the men straggled in by
twos and threes. George reported four more run-
aways, two of whom were caught.

The next day’s march was again an easy one of

VI TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 209 j

three hours, during which we covered but four miles.
Hamidi and another headman did not reach camp at
all; they were searching for deserters. As ‘fast as we
caught the runaways, we tied them together in a line
with ropes, and placed them under the charge of the
Soudanese.. I sent back two Somali to search for
deserters, and divided among my men two loads of
cloth as a present, for we could carry them no farther.
One of the runaways we had caught the day before
had found a tusk of ivory in the desert, worth perhaps
fifty-five dollars. In the rainy season this portion of the
Tana River must be almost infested with elephants.

For two days more we struggled on in this fashion,
losing two men each day through desertions, until at
length we came to a point along the river where there
was one of our old resting-places. Here Hamidi turned
up with four captured deserters; their loads, however,
could not be found. The runaway squad now tied
together consisted of eleven men. Four of the Sou-
danese were placed in charge of them, two on the
flank, and two in the rear. At night they were care-
fully watched, for it was only by unremitting vigilance
that we were able to frustrate their numerous attempts
at desertion.

Of all difficulties connected with travel in East
Africa, desertion is perhaps the most serious; and it
seems impossible to overcome it. Mr. Stanley, describ-
ing his last expedition, undertaken for the relief of
Emin Pasha, although his caravan consisted of Zanzi-
bari who had been carried by sea from Zanzibar to
the mouth of the Congo, thousands of miles from their

home, tells in his book, how throughout the entire
iP.

210 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

journey, even when he was traversing the ‘“ dark forest,”
he was unable to prevent these ignorant people from
throwing away their lives by desertion. The Zanzi-
bari is ever ready to retrace his steps, no matter how
difficult the road. It is the facing of the unknown
that seems to fill him with dread.

On the afternoon of the seventh day from Hameye
we reached the food station established by George,
distant from Hameye only thirty-five miles. It was ter-
rible work getting the men to cover even this short dis-
tance in the seven days. At this food station two of
the cows were killed (just in time to prevent natural
deaths on their part), which the men ate with avidity.
My horse also died at this place.

George, through his skill in arranging the loads, had
prevented the loss of many of them; and there always
seemed to be carrying power for just one more, even
when apparently every man and beast was staggering
under a burden. Even the headmen, Somali and Sou-
danese, were laden down. We rested at the food station
two days, then set out for the Mackenzie River, which
we reached after one day’s march, and having crossed
this river we camped near the Tana.

The small distances we were accomplishing in our
daily marches convinced me that we should be unable
to reach the Jombeni range before exhausting our food
supply; so we halted at the Tana for two days, which
were spent in hippopotamus-shooting. At this point
the Tana is 150 yards wide, and its current is obstructed
by a mass of gneiss rocks, over which the water brawls
and rushes. We saw several groups of hippopotamuses
sleeping in the river, and set to work to get as many

VI TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 211

of them as possible. In a short time we killed five.
Knowing the courageous nature of Felix, the fox-
terrier, we had tied him to a tree while engaged in
shooting; but in some manner he managed to escape
from his bonds, and plunged into the river in the midst
of the wounded hippopotamuses. He swam from one
to the other, barking all the time. Now and again the

ss —

SCENE ON THE TANA

swift current dashed him against the rocks, and his barks
were drowned by the roar of the stream; but he in-
variably reappeared and continued as before. On one
occasion Felix pursued a wounded bull hippopotamus
until near the shore where the water was shallower, and
the beast stood at bay. Felix leaped upon his back,
and barked paeans of victory, much to the discomfort
of the wounded animal. Another shot laid the bull low.

212 THROUGH JUNGLE. AND DESERT CHAP.

Motio told us that there was a river two days’ march
distant, called Ura, which flowed from Daitcho on the
Jombeni range. We started for this river, which is
nearly as large as the Mackenzie. On the road we
killed two more hippopotamuses.

We also heard from Motio that the regular caravan
route from Mombasa to Daitcho crosses the Tana
River at a point two days’ march beyond the junction
of the Ura with that stream. We feared to follow the
Tana to this place, as our men, in all probability, would
take advantage of it as a means of reaching the coast.
It appeared, some one had told our porters that the
object of our journey was to visit the Somali. This,
then, was undoubtedly one of the reasons for desertion ;
for if there is a people which the Zanzibari dread more
than any other, it is the Somali. Their brethren, who
inhabit the coast in the neighbourhood of Lamoo, are
harassed continually by these people from Kismayu,
and are forced: to become their slaves. To be the
slave of a Somali little resembles the same servi-
tude under an Arab. The Somali treat their slaves
worse than animals; the Arab, on the contrary, per-
mits them to live in almost the same comfort as
himself.

We made slow progress along the banks of the
Ura, owing to the thick bush; moreover, rain fell
daily, making the soil muddy and difficult to march
over. One day while upon the march I saw through
an opening in the bush, at a distance of 150 yards, a
young lion, trotting slowly along in a direction at right
angles to that which I was following. I took a snap-
shot at him, and must have struck him, for he leaped

VI TRAVELS [IN EASTERN AFRICA 213

many feet in the air. As we were on the march, I could
not halt a sufficiently long time to make careful search;
so I failed to get him.

Just after crossing the Ura, which we did on the
third day after reaching its mouth, I saw at a point
eighty yards in front of me, and near a scattered
clump of mimosa, five giraffes. I stopped the cara-
van, for the animals seemed utterly unaware of my
approach, and was so fortunate as to kill four of the
five with a shot each from my Winchester. These
shots were delivered in such rapid succession, that
the giraffes seemed puzzled as to the direction from
which they came and so made no movement. Each
shot was aimed at the neck, which it penetrated, and
broke the spine; so that the animals dropped at
once. When a giraffe is facing the sportsman, I
think there is no shot so good as one at the neck,
for its great length and considerable thickness give a
very good line, and so help the aim.

As we approached the eastern slope of the Jombeni
range, we passed millet plantations, on which were
erected, in the tops of low trees, many neat little
straw huts. These are used as habitations by the
warriors of the Daitcho, who are made to perform the
double duty of guarding the frontier, and frightening
away beasts and birds that would destroy the crops.
As soon as the watchmen seated in these huts spied
our caravan, they raised a mighty hullabaloo, and ran
to warn the villages of the approach of the caravan.
I made camp on the eastern slope of an extinct vol-
canic cone, covered with waving, green grass. Water
was secured at a place but 300 yards distant from

214 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

camp, and there was a nice brook. Soon after our
arrival, old men came and asked our intentions; to
whom we gave assurance that we desired but three
things; namely, peace, food, and donkeys.

A small caravan of Zanzibari was encamped near
the villages of the Daitcho, buying donkeys. This

party was thirty in number, and composed entirely
of slaves. They had left Mombasa five months before,

lh el ( i \ |

\" ih oi
mA a oi ne \¥

int ae Bn any i
ig

Alla foe Aah a sub
Y AM, Ru ae

NATIVE HUTS OF THE WA-DAITCHO

whence they had been sent by their masters to trade
for ivory. The method adopted in fitting out one of
these caravans is generally as follows. Several Arabs
get together and agree to enter into a loose partner-
ship for a trading journey into the interior. Each
member of the partnership furnishes a number of
slaves, generally from six to eight. He then gives
his note to some Hindoo or Banyan merchant for
such trading-goods as he supplies to his slaves for
purposes of barter. This note generally bears inter-
est at the rate of twelve per cent per annum, or one

VI TRAVELS [NV EASTERN AFRICA 215

per cent per month, as the duration of such a jour-
ney is very uncertain.

When the slaves who are to form the party are
gathered together, the slave possessing the greatest
experience in caravan work is made the leader. The
qualifications necessary for this position are, first, a
knowledge of the language and customs of the tribes
through which the caravan will pass; next, an inkling
of the route over which the journey is to be made;
last, but far from least, ability as a magician. No
caravan leaves the coast without a “ Mganga,” who is
supposed to be able not only to tell future events, but
also to ward off evil by his skill in the black arts.

On these expeditions there is always a copy of the
Koran taken along, and the leader must possess a
slight knowledge of the contents of this book. From
its pages he derives information of the future, and by
the repetition at given times of some of its phrases
he is supposed to ward off evil from his followers.
Mey also» carry at the. head of , the: expedition a
white flag called ‘““kome,”’ which is covered with curi-
ously wrought figures, triangles and circles, and many
phrases from the Koran. This flag is supposed to be
possessed of occult power. The makers of these
kome are great medicine-men, who for the most part
have made long journeys into the interior during
their youth, and in their old age derive a fair income
from the manufacture of these flags. I have known
a caravan leader to pay $200 for one of them; but
this flag was so highly valued principally from the
fact that it had been carried by Tippoo Tib upon one
of his marauding expeditions into the interior.

216 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

These medicine-men also make charms — phrases
from the Koran, scribbled on bits of paper, which are
then wrapped carefully in many folds of cloth. <A great
traveller will often possess fifteen or twenty of these
charms, some of which he will wear around his neck,
while others are attached to the trigger-guard of his
gun.

The groups of slaves furnished by their several mas-
ters for a trading journey have no common interest but
that of mutual protection. Each master receives the
profits made by his group of slaves, and these are
entirely independent of those made by the others. The
slaves taking part in these expeditions are very poorly
paid, and are never paid by the month. They are given
a round sum for the journey, one-third in advance, and
the remaining two-thirds after their return. As the
chance of their getting anything upon their return de-
pends upon the success with which the expedition is
attended, occasions upon which they receive the two-
thirds are rare; for it is seldom that the masters of
these men will admit having made any profit out of
their trading operations.

While at the coast, and under the eyes of his master,
the life of a slave is not one of luxurious ease; but upon
the road, as he is furnished with a considerable quantity
of trading-goods, he generally loses sight of the interest
of his master, and lives as well as the country through
which he is passing can afford.

The caravan which I met at Daitcho had travelled in
a most leisurely manner, and had exhausted more than
half of their trading-goods before reaching Daitcho.
At Daitcho they expended the remainder in purchas-

vI TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 217

ing beans, millet-flour, and donkeys to carry the same.
Thus equipped, with plenty of food, they set out to trade
with the Wanderobbo, who, they said, were in a starv-
ing condition, and would gladly exchange whatever
ivory they possessed for food and donkeys.

All of the thirty men were armed with rifles — some,
Snyder carbines, but the majority Enfield muzzle-
loaders or Tower guns. They had very little ammuni-
tion with them, as they depended almost wholly upon
the magic skill of the leader to prevent harm coming
to them; and they used the guns simply to fire salutes,
which they did as frequently as their supply of ammuni-
tion would warrant. Many of these caravans are cut
to pieces, even though they take pains to avoid danger-
ous countries and go only where they are not likely to
fall in with hostile natives. In former times, before
Masai Land had been opened up, no caravan of less
than 300 persons ever ventured into that country, and
ofttimes the force consisted of from 600 to 1000. When
in such numbers, Zanzibari caravans invariably take
advantage of their strength to harass the natives, and
live more by plunder and rapine than by trade. One
of my Masai interpreters boasted of having taken part
in an expedition consisting of 1000 men, which had
been formed at Pangani and other places on the coast
opposite Zanzibar. This caravan had spent two years
in the interior. At first it had been most successful in
trade and plunder, but small-pox broke out among them.
This reduced their numbers, they were attacked continu-
ally by the natives, and but 200 of them reached the
coast alive.

I asked him what he thought of the medicine-man

218 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

who had led them on that occasion. He said the medi-
cine-man had been supplied with the best sort of magic
for everything but small-pox, and it was owing to this
oversight on his part that they met with such misfort-
unes. As a proof of this, he said that he later went
on a journey under the lead of the same medicine-man,
and on that journey they had no small-pox, and their
expedition was crowned with success. This stubborn
faith in the medicine-man renders it most difficult for
a European to manage these people, without resorting
to the expedient of giving them the impression that he
too is possessed of a thorough knowledge of witch-
craft.

At first we had great difficulty in inducing the
natives of Daitcho to bring food to our camp; so I
sent George to trade near the camp of the Zanzibari
traders. The food we could procure at Daitcho con-
sisted of two kinds of beans (one large and_ black,
the other small and white), yams, cassava, and a few
bananas. The yams, cassava, and bananas come from
the Embe, as the country inhabited by the Daitcho
is not suited for the growth of these edibles. Trade
soon became brisk, and we were able to purchase four
days’ rations each day.

The rains, which began to fall on the 18th of March,
were now of daily occurrence and fairly heavy, though
nothing in comparison with the rains of the wet season
I passed in Zanzibar.

While at Daitcho, Lieutenant von Hohnel had a
sharp attack of fever, which lasted four days, and
throughout the rainy season I suffered from _ liver
complaint.

VI TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 219

After we had been in Daitcho eight days, some old
men came to our camp bringing a sheep, and went
through the ceremony of blood-brotherhood. During
this function I placed a little spirit in a saucer, and
lighted it with a match, meanwhile pronouncing some
nonsensical words in an impressive tone. Then I
dropped a pinch of salt upon it, and changed the colour
of the flame from blue to yellow. This act inspired
the old men with an enormous amount of reverence
and respect for my ability as a magician.

Upon concluding the muma ceremony, the elders
told us they had heard of our victory over the
Wamsara, and, as the Wamsara were their particular
enemies, they felt certain we should be their friends;
but in order to prove our friendship for them in the
most satisfactory manner, they urged us again to attack
the Wamsara, and also to exterminate another tribe
called Janjy, against whom they appeared to have some
grudge. Needless to say, we did not acquiesce in their
desire.

Our camp at Daitcho was pitched thirty minutes’
walk from the nearest village, and in the midst of
millet plantations. Daitcho consists of a portion of
the country about 10,000 acres in extent, half of it
being situated upon the lowest foot-hills of the eastern
slopes of the Jombeni range; the other half, in the
plain below. It is inhabited by not more than 3500
people. These people subsist entirely upon the prod-
ucts of the soil. They grow millet, Indian corn, and
a few bananas. They are particularly fond of the
edible roots growing higher up on the hills in the
Embe country, and exchange their surplus crops for

Nv
nN
ie}

THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

cassava, yams, etc. Their flocks of sheep and goats
are small, and they have no large cattle whatever.
They are greatly in dread of their neighbours, and are
in a measure subject to the Embe, the Wamsara, and
other powerful tribes inhabiting the Jombeni range;
but their poverty saves them from frequent raids by
their more powerful neighbours.

Almost without exception, in all the large trees
growing in the neighbourhood of Daitcho, there are to
be found small, hollow logs, which are used as hives
for bees. The honey found upon the plains is much
inferior to that to be had upon the mountains; but,
after it has been diluted with water, and placed near a
fire to ferment, it is sufficient to keep the older men
of the Daitcho tribe in a condition of intoxication.
After a few hours fermentation sets in, and then,
although the liquid is not strong to the taste, it seems
to produce high spirits in these simple-minded savages.

The plantations in the Daitcho country are not
divided by hedges, as is the case with the Embe,
but a narrow uncultivated space is left as the divid-
ing line between one plantation and another. They
get two crops from the soil annually, and each _pro-
prietor of a plantation has near his little hut several
storehouses for grain. They are not very industri-
ous or prudent, and cases of suffering from famine
are not infrequent. All work on the plantations —
children of tender years, as well as the most aged
people. They work the soil with sharpened sticks,
hardened by charring in a fire. I tried to induce
them to use hoes (several of which I had_ brought),
but to no purpose.

VI TRAVELS INV EASTERN AFRICA 221

The government of the country is entirely in the

hands of the old men, and each little clump of huts
has its sage, who settles every dispute which may arise
in his neighbourhood. Warriors are armed somewhat
after the fashion of the Embe, but with weapons of
inferior quality; so it is fortunate they rarely have

an opportunity of testing their prowess. Marriage is
considered a binding tie. When a young man among
them wishes a wife, he enters into negotiations with
the parents of the chosen creature; and either serves
for a certain length of time on the father’s planta-
tion, or cultivates a piece of land until he has earned
sufficient to buy seven or eight goats, which he
hands over) as. the’ purchase price “of his -, bride.

222 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

Some of the richer of the inhabitants have several
wives. A wife is looked upon more as a servant
or slave, to work upon the plantations, than as a
companion and friend. As soon as a man acquires
a sufficient number of wives to work his plantations,
he ceases from labour, and spends the remainder of
his days in drinking honey wine and eating miraa,
which he gets from the Embe.

Tobacco is not grown by these people. In fact,
this is the poorest of all the countries in the neigh-
bourhood of the Jombeni range. As the Daitcho
are a weak people, and consequently not aggressive,
they receive frequent visits from the traders of the
coast, who go to them for the purpose of purchasing
food for their journey through the desert inhabited
by the Wanderobbo, from whom the traders purchase
ivory. From these frequent visits the Daitcho have
assumed the position of middle-men between the
wealthy Embe and the traders in the purchase of
donkeys. The donkeys are much in demand among
the Zanzibari traders for use as beasts of burden,
and are greatly prized by the Wanderobbo, who will
exchange a large tusk of ivory, and at times two,
for a donkey.

During our stay at Daitcho, which lasted through-
out the rainy season, we were enabled to enter into
comparatively close relations with the natives, after
they had satisfied themselves that we had no _ hostile
intentions toward them; but, owing to our conflicts
with the Wamsara and the Embe, the Daitcho seemed
loath to act as go-betweens in the trade which we
opened for donkeys. We found a Zanzibari cara-

VI TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 223

van there, which in a short time had been able to
purchase sixty of these animals, but we found it a
much more difficult matter; and where the Zanzi-
bari were able to purchase six or seven in a day,
we considered ourselves most fortunate if we secured
one.

The principal character among the Daitcho was
an old man named Bykender. He spoke Swahili
and Masai, as well as his native tongue, and had had
much experience with traders. For a native I found
him to be very intelligent; and owing to this quality,
he had amassed sufficient wealth in goats, sheep, and
wives to place him far above his fellow-tribesmen in
wealth and authority. He had six plantations in the
Daitcho country, and two near the Embe frontier.
Upon each of these plantations lived one of his wives,
and his life was spent in journeying from one to
the other, looking after his interests.

One of his wives was a Rendile woman. It was
a long time before we could induce him to tell the
story of his marriage with her, but he finally gave
us the following statement. Fifteen years before the
date of our stay the Daitcho received a visit from a
small band of Rendile consisting of 100 people.
They brought with them their camels, some sheep
and goats, and had come for the purpose of trade,
wishing above all things to purchase tobacco. While
in the Daitcho country all their camels died, and
they were forced to exchange their sheep and goats
for donkeys, which the Daitcho procured for them
from the Embe. But their supply of sheep and goats
was not sufficient to purchase what beasts of burden

224 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

they needed; so they were compelled to dispose of
some of their women.

Among those sold was the wife of Bykender.
She appeared to be his favourite consort, and was
possessed of a really pleasant disposition. At the
time we visited the Daitcho, she was perhaps forty
years of age. She frequently came to our camp,
always bringing with her a small present, in. return
for which we loaded her with beads and bits of
coloured cloth.

One day, while she was seated in our camp, I
called a Somali and asked him to speak to her in
his own tongue. Upon hearing Somali spoken, she
evinced every sign of mental excitement, became
speechless, and went away. It was not before some
days had passed that she returned. She explained
the excitement she had shown on the former visit by
saying that my people who had spoken to her had
used words of the Rendile language, and she was
convinced that I had Rendile in my caravan.

This was most interesting to us, as it indicated
that the Somali were in some way akin to the Ren-
dile, or at least that their languages had a common
origin. We endeavoured to get as much information
from her in regard to the Rendile as possible; but
she was uncommunicative on this subject, and con-
tented herself by saying that they were a very great
tribe, very brave and very powerful. When asked if
she wished to return to her people, she shook her
head, and said that her interests were now all bound
up in the Daitcho. She was at least sure of a home
with the Daitcho; but among the Rendile a woman

VI TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 225

of her age would be forced to satisfy herself with the
position of a slave.

During the first month of our stay at Daitcho, all
the donkeys we had brought with us from Hameye
died. Their sickness appeared to be a species of lock-
jaw, but we were never able to discover its origin;
though, doubtless, it was the same complaint which
carried off our other animals at Hameye. We took
the greatest care of our animals; made good stables
for them, to protect them from the rain, and pastured
them only in places where the grass seemed suitable
for them. Notwithstanding all our efforts, we not
only lost all those we brought from Hameye, but
also the donkeys which came from the Embe died
shortly after they were purchased. We knew that we
should be absolutely unable to proceed further without
beasts of burden; for the country through which our
journey would lie offered no food supply except game,
and our porters were but sufficient in number to carry
our trading-goods.

Several times we called Bykender, and explained to
him our needs. He told us that the Embe were un-
willing to sell us anything, and in fact had threatened
the Daitcho with all sorts of destruction, because they
permitted us to live in their territory. He said the
only thing for us to do was to ascend the mountain,
camp in the Embe territory, and there purchase as
many donkeys as we needed; that he was convinced
the climate of the Daitcho country was entirely un-
suited in the rainy season for animals of any sort;
and for that reason, if no other, the Daitcho were
unable to keep cattle.

Q

226 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

We carefully weighed this matter, and came to the
conclusion that what Bykender said was true enough;
but as both Lieutenant von Hohnel and I had suffered
continually from fever, we felt unfit even for the short
journey up the mountains; and we did not lke to
separate our caravan into two parts. However, there
was no other course open to us.

About this time, according to the Nautical Almanac,
an eclipse of the sun was to occur, which would be
visible in Africa. We looked upon this as a fitting
moment to prove our power as wizards. Accordingly,
for several days before the date assigned for the eclipse,
we took pains to inform Bykender and the other leaders
of the Daitcho that we would, for the purpose of con-
vincing them of our occult power, cause the sun to
be darkened for the greater portion of one day. With
these people seeing is believing; so they listened with
polite indifference to our predictions. What was our
horror upon the day assigned, to find that our read-
ing of the Nautical Almanac had been all too care-
lessly done, and that the eclipse we had prophesied
with so much insistence was visible in all parts of
Africa but that small part in which we were encamped ?
We did not make this discovery until a few hours before
the time set for the eclipse to occur.

It would not do to appear as false prophets. So
we sent runners to all the leaders of the Daitcho, ex-
plaining to them that we considered the darkening of
the sun, and the consequent shortening of the day, too
serious a matter; that it would be such a proof of our
power as would probably frighten them; moreover, they
needed all the hours of daylight to work their planta-

VI TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 227

tions; therefore, we would postpone the solar eclipse
until some other time, when daylight was less essential
to them; but, in order to prove our power, and not
cause them to suffer disappointment, we would give
them a demonstration in the evening, in every way as
convincing as the eclipse, and possessing the advantage
of being less troublesome to them.

As already stated, our camp was pitched upon the
slope of a volcanic cone. Being the highest hill in the
Daitcho country, this cone is looked upon by the natives
with great reverence, and is said by them to be haunted
by the spirits of the dead. None of the Daitcho will
cultivate so much as the slopes of this hill; and in
the memory of the oldest inhabitant no member of
the tribe had ever had the hardihood to ascend to its
summit. Shortly after dark on the day we stated that
the eclipse would occur, we ascended to the top of this
hill, carrying with us two large signal rockets and
an eight-bore express rifle.

Upon reaching the summit, where we knew we would
be visible to the most distant village of the Daitcho,
we fired two shots from the eight-bore to attract
attention, and immediately after discharged in quick
succession the two rockets. The effect of this demon-
stration was made apparent upon the following day;
trade ceased, and it was with the utmost difficulty that
we persuaded Bykender and one or two of the more
influential leaders to visit us in our camp.

We asked them whether they had seen us at work
the night before, and if they fully realized what potent
wizards we were? They shook their heads and shud-
dered. After some time had elapsed, Bykender said

228 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

that most of the women of the Daitcho, upon seeing
the first rocket discharged, had clutched their children
to their breasts and fled into the forest. We then
expressed anger at their stupidity, and explained to
them at great length that the magic we had _ per-
formed the night before would in no way prove harm-
ful to the Daitcho.

At this Bykender seemed much relieved, and talked
eagerly with his companions. Soon after, they left
our camp, and trade resumed much more briskly than
before. The news of our performance soon spread
beyond the regions of the Daitcho. After a few days
several of the leaders of the Embe paid us a visit, osten-
sibly for the purpose of craving our aid in a war with
some of the neighbouring tribes, but we discovered that
their real purpose was to secure some charm from us,
by which each of them could increase his individual
power among his people. We hailed the visit of these
Embe leaders with delight, and retained four of them
as hostages, sending back the other three who composed
the party to inform their people of our intention to
visit them in the near future; when we hoped they
would promptly open up a large trade with us in
donkeys.

On the day following the departure of these emis-
saries I sent George with forty-five men to the Embe
country. He took with him Motio as interpreter, and
the few donkeys purchased from the Daitcho which
were still alive. After an absence of a few days,
George sent us word that the trade in donkeys was
getting on much better in the Embe country than at
Daitcho; but that they were still coming but slowly.

VI TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 229

After a short period five of the most influential of
the Embe leaders came to ransom their friends, whom
we had detained. Asa ransom they brought with them
three donkeys. We greeted them kindly, and bought
the donkeys at reasonable prices, saying that we were
unwilling to receive presents from our friends. We
then brought forward the four hostages held by us,
and after loading them with gifts, told them they were
free to return to their people, and explain how good
and kind we were. They were delighted with their
presents, but seemed eager to depart. Their delight
was somewhat lessened when they found that the new-
comers (who, by the way, we learned were the chief men
of the Embe) were to be retained in their stead. We
explained that we were desirous of entering into close
relationship with the Embe, and could imagine no
means so well adapted to that end as prolonged inter-
course with their wisest and most influential chiefs:
we therefore considered it advisable to extend our
hospitality to the elders who had just come.

Both Lieutenant von Hohnel and I excessively dis-
liked going through with such affairs; but we knew it
was necessary, for George would have been absolutely
unsafe in the territory of the Embe, had we not held
these influential men as hostages in our camp. During
the days immediately ensuing several messages were
received from George, telling us that his experiences
with the Embe were of the most pleasant character, that
trade in donkeys had been going on as well as could be
wished, and that he had managed during the first two
weeks of his stay to purchase thirty-seven of these
animals; but that at the time of writing, because either

230 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

the supply of donkeys held by the Embe had been
exhausted, or they were unwilling to sell any more, none
had been brought for sale for the past two or three days.

Thirty-seven donkeys would suffice for a journey of
exploration similar to our recent journey from Hameye
to Lorian; but it was far from sufficient to enable our
entire caravan to advance into the desert; particularly
as we had been informed that starvation reigned over
the entire country lying between our position and the
country of the Reschatt. This was our route to the
north, at least the only one with which we were at that
time familiar, and with steady marching fifty days would
be required for its accomplishment. From George’s
account of trade in the Embe ‘country it seemed im-
probable, no matter how long the stay there, that we
should ever succeed in purchasing a sufficient number
of donkeys to enable the entire caravan to move. We
therefore decided to set out with but a small portion
of our men, and once more endeavour to find the Ren-
dile, and purchase from them beasts of burden; or, if
this failed, to move on to a tribe called Turcana, who
inhabited the country to the south of Lake Rudolph,
which had been visited by Lieutenant von Héhnel on
his former journey, where he had seen many donkeys
and not a few camels.

In order to guard against absolute failure, even
should we not succeed in getting beasts of burden
while on this journey, we decided to send our head-
man, Hamidi, and six others to the coast, there to
procure as many donkeys as possible, and twenty or
thirty good men besides, to take the places of those
who had died or deserted. We knew that this step

VI TRAVELS [N EASTERN AFRICA 231

was fraught with many dangers to the success of the
caravan; for it is a principle of African travel, when
once you have left the coast, to keep your back to it
until your journey has been accomplished and you are

EMBE GIRL CARRYING WOOD

on your homeward way. But the loss of our beasts of
burden, and the number of deaths and desertions which
occurred in our caravan, had entirely upset our calcula-
tions, and reduced our burden-bearing capacity to such
an extent that further advance into the interior with
our whole caravan would be impossible, unless we had

232 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

been willing to throw away such a quantity of our
supplies as would greatly weaken its efficiency. Hav-
ing carefully weighed the matter, we decided that the
step was not only well worth taking, but an absolute
necessity.

I had sufficient confidence in my agent at the coast
to feel hopeful that he would give his best attention
to satisfying my wants. At the same time, I knew
that in Africa, at least, white men are much less apt
to be painstaking or particular in their regard for the
interests of a person who is far away in the interior
and perhaps may never return, than they are to per-
form creditably the commission of a person near at
hand, and in position to criticise their work. How-
ever, there was no alternative.

I wrote a letter of instructions to my agent; and,
after explaining our wants to Hamidi at great length
and with much particularity, we got one of our men,
who was something of a scribe, to put the whole com-
mission in writing in the Swahili tongue, so that there
could be no mistake in the matter.

The rains for the past ten days were not so heavy
as previously, but to prove that the rainy season was
not quite over, we had an occasional light shower.
During the heavy rains, not only the beasts, but also
my men, suffered continually from sickness. Six of the
porters died from pulmonary complaints; for, as the
rainy season was prevailing at the time we arrived, we
had been unable to make a sufficiently healthy camp
by providing our men with good huts. We had done
our best, however, and before the rains ceased each
hut was well-thatched and water-proof; but to do this

VI TRAVELS IM EASTERN AFRICA 233

required tons of grass. The huts were huddled closely
together, so that they almost touched one another; and
the camp presented the appearance of a field covered
with small haycocks. After the rains ceased, the grass
upon the huts quickly dried.

We had made a rule, which we endeavoured to
enforce, that no fire should be built in the huts; but
despite our most careful watching, some of the men,
particularly the Soudanese, would build a small fire
near their beds to warm themselves. While the rains
poured in torrents, this was not particularly dangerous ;
but after the rains had ceased and the grass dried, only
a spark was needed to set the whole camp in flames.

One afternoon during our stay at Daitcho, Lieutenant
von Hohnel and I were enjoying a siesta, when we
were rudely aroused by the cry,“ Moto! Moto!” (Fire!
Fire!) We leaped to our feet and rushed out, there
to see that a portion of the camp was in flames. We
knew that in a few moments not a hut would be left
standing. All hands were set to work removing the
goods, particularly the ammunition; and ere the con-
flagration was over, and the camp reduced to smoke
and a mass of ashes, nearly every load had been car-
med to a safe distance. While it lasted, the fire
raged with great fury, and the terror caused by the
flames was increased by the explosion of a great
number of cartridges; for the men, in their hurry,
had neglected to remove beyond the reach of the
fire, cartridges which they had in their huts. Fortu-
nately, no one was wounded.

After the fire was over, we looked upon it as a
joke; in fact, as something in the nature of a blessing,

234 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP. VI

for we were then compelled to build a better camp.
We first cleared away all the tall grass in the im-
mediate neighbourhood; then we marked out a square,
just one-half an acre in extent, and this we fenced in
with tall palisades. It took 1300 logs, each more
than six inches in diameter, to complete the circuit.
Inside and close to the palisade we placed the huts
of the men. These huts were made, not of straw, as
we feared another fire, but open on the inside like
lean-tos, and roofed with thin strips of the midrib of
a large palm growing along the banks of the neigh-
bouring brook. In two weeks’ time we had completed
a capital camp, sufficiently strong to withstand the
attack of a great number of natives.

When our new camp was finished, we released the
Embe hostages we had detained. After loading them
with presents we sent them back to their people with
the intelligence that upon the following day we
should visit them for the purpose of entering into
the bonds of blood-brotherhood with the whole tribe.
We told them we would not be satisfied with any-
thing less than the most solemn ceremony, such as
would be binding for all time; and insisted that this
ceremony must be accomplished during our coming
visit to them; also, that, should they not be willing
to become our blood-brothers, we should then know
they were our enemies, and we would act accordingly.

This step was absolutely necessary; for when Lieu-
tenant von Hodhnel and I set out upon our journey,
George would be left at Daitcho with comparatively
few men. Though our camp was strong, and our
relations with the Daitcho people friendly, neverthe-

OHOLIVG LV dNVD ANNO

Ne

’ Z 22 De > :
, fy »
YL tyiphr-7 S we Pips yoy
Wyld he bay Gy ORL yf iy yy SOR >
ie s Gf; ie “Nipp, LIEU LENS "et ay w Neu Be
L4G EAA 17 BEASTS pA BQO Pra
en ny ee
LEE ZL Ze es A
ZZ LS ee I re Ly py Sp2)
ES LIZ EERE Sig Ly a0 iy Y
Z ELLE ae YG AY WEL MILL
a a LEM PLESLOE iz y
Pant ae ae : GLEE L/L)
f nt it NN Cae YLAA LOD ei,

7
z
&

\

/

LAD 2d.

\
\\

UR il i teggrttcExz=D=» a
; Whe uf ZA, EY 7
, gp aD AYA Me ppp)

| H uti
Lane i & fu
i Mes “ WSs 29 Wha y i
May, Los m. Wess hy Bue Lee,
Mf pyr tea OOEIEE zw San
d is eed 1 LE! z poe tl hill»

" MEUM ANNAN
“itp, tiige yy Hynpatn
gosto GOAALEZ a
gt egg iO”? mA
LE EGP PZ RS

PD
ag

a © tA AYES dos
<a Spee hee
ee ee
fee KLIS ys iif? yy AU ji.

Lice Ce VY, 2,
4 wAs aE igel Mes
LG j WET YUU EE CE Dae hy pup p@bEA)s Ms Pies iy,
MY LILY, Wee : z ee “Ms,
Ott tla asian fae ae, i

A
en

ae

F €
- 2
A . ’
' .
——
Be
|
?
: f

CHAP. VI TRAVELS [N EASTERN AFRICA 237

less, it would not do for us to set out until we were
convinced of the peaceable intentions of the Embe,
our most powerful neighbours.

Shortly after our arrival at Daitcho, the Zanzibari
traders whom we found there left for the north, with
sixty donkeys well laden with flour and beans, which
they hoped to exchange for ivory among the Wan-
derobbo.

The day following the fire, twelve other traders
arrived at Daitcho. This small caravan was in
charge of two natives from Beloochistan, named Gwa-
haram and Abdurachman. It may seem extraordinary
that Beloochi should be found in the interior of
Africa, but at Zanzibar and many other points along
the east coast, such as Mombasa, Pangani, and Bur-
gamoyo, many Beloochi have settled during the past
fifty years. The Sultan of Zanzibar is in close rela-
tion with the Sultan of Muscat, Arabia. The latter
place lies not far from Beloochistan; and it is wa
Muscat that most of these Beloochi came to the
coast of Africa. To me. they appeared: to -be a
much finer race than the Arabs, more energetic, and
willing to undergo more hardships and dangers.

These two Beloochi, accompanied by ten men, came
from Njemps, a country lying to the south of Lake
Baringo. They were, so they said, but a part of a
very large caravan which had left Mombasa eighteen
months before, the major portion of which had_pro-
ceeded along the left bank of Lake Rudolph in search
of ivory; but that no reports had been received from
them during the past nine months. They said that
the famine at Njemps had forced them to come all the

238 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

way to Daitcho to buy food. They had a few donkeys
with them, and hoped to purchase more. They added
their testimony to reports I had already heard, that
famine was existing everywhere to the north of
Daitcho. On their way to Daitcho they had met the
party of thirty Zanzibari, half of whose donkeys, they
said, had already died, and the remainder seemed suf-
fering from sickness.

These Beloochi had been trading in East Africa for
many years. They said that it was impossible to
account for the disease among the donkeys. At inter-
vals varying from three to four years, some disease
seemed to break out among these animals, and carried
them off in large numbers. Generally the donkey
seemed proof against all sickness, and was the most
useful animal possible for caravan work.

On May 26, accompanied by forty well-armed men,
Lieutenant von Hohnel and I set out to join George
in the Embe country, for the purpose of making a last-
ing treaty with that tribe. Our path through the
Daitcho country was overgrown with grass and bushes
which had sprung up under the influence of the rains,
but it was very easy under-foot. Upon reaching the
foot-hills on the border of the Embe country, the road
became steep, winding, and rough. We _ had _ not
ascended more than a few hundred feet above the
plain, ere the aspect of the country changed, and we
found ourselves in a land rich with verdure, covered
with plantations, and thickly dotted with groups of
native huts. The natives exhibited no fear of us; in
fact, they scarcely deigned to favour us with a glance,
as we steadily plodded along through their plantations,

VI TRAVELS [N EASTERN AFRICA 239

often passing within a few feet of their villages, or
making our way through the midst of large flocks of
sheep and goats. We saw no cattle or donkeys what-
ever.

At one o’clock we reached the spot where George
was encamped. On our march between the frontier of
the Embe country and George’s camp we had passed
two market places. These consisted of openings in
the plantations, beaten hard and bare by many feet.
Thither came the women of the neighbouring districts
of the Embe country daily, and expended many hours
in exchanging their produce one with the other. One
old woman would bring a large bag upon her back con-
taining thirty or forty pounds of cassava; another,
manioc; another, yams; while a fourth would bring
bananas. Some few brought beans or millet. These
they exchanged, one with the other, but it appeared to
me that more time was devoted to conversation than
trade. The market place echoed with the shouts of the
women, as they talked and gossiped among themselves
of bargains or the news of the day; and often after
many hours spent in this way a woman would return
to her home, bearing just what she took from it in the
morning. All trade in the products of the soil is car-
ried on by the women; but the business relating to live
stocks, spears, shields, honey, etc., is carried on by the
men.

These people do not seem to be particularly well
nourished, for one rarely sees a native who could prop-
erly be called even stout. The little children are fat
enough, to be sure, but only the very small ones.

We found George in camp not more than half a mile

240 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

from the spot where we had encamped during our
former visit to the Embe. The view from this camp
was lovely. It was surrounded on all sides but one
by high hills, covered either with soft green turf or
with thick growths of wild bananas, with here and there
a clump of dhum palms. To the northeast the view
was not shut in by hills, but stretched to the desert,
which even after the rains looked grim and forbidding
in contrast with the luxurious vegetation among which
we were.

George had built a small zeriba for the donkeys,
around which he had placed the huts of the men,
which were thickly thatched with the leaves of the
wild banana. He reported that during his stay among
the Embe the natives had given him but little trouble;
in fact, his only complaint was that they had not come
in sufficient numbers to trade. Upon one occasion,
however, he had heard loud shouts and cries; where-
upon an old negro came to him and said that the
warriors of the Embe had decided to fall upon the
European and annihilate him; but after he had fired
a couple of shots, the shoutings of the natives ceased,
and nothing further occurred.

On the afternoon of the day of our arrival, a few
hours before sunset, a few elders came, among them
those whom we had held as hostages at Daitcho. They
seemed pleased to see us, and we explained to them
that we were unable to stop with the Embe for many
days, and therefore wished to make as soon as _ pos-
sible a treaty with the people of that tribe. They said
they would at once send out word to the farthest parts
of their territory, and that within two days at latest the

vI TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 241

principal men would be gathered together, and the
treaty ratified. We gave them presents, and they went
on their ways rejoicing. That night the hills around
our camp resounded with the notes of native horns,
which we were told were sounded for the purpose of
assembling the elders. The following day nothing
happened.

The change in the atmosphere was very marked.
Here among the Embe we were encamped about 5000
feet above sea-level, and the air was very bracing. Both
Lieutenant von Hohnel and I found that our appetites
increased and our spirits rose. I am sure that at this
height above sea-level Europeans could live with com-
fort. My negroes, however, appeared to suffer from
the cold. They imagine that no country is healthy
where they are not continually bathed in perspiration,
although at ease.

On the following day about thirty old men came to
our camp, and asked our intentions. We had grown
accustomed to their policy of delay and postponement ;
but on this occasion we had no time to wait, and
frankly told them that they were well informed of our
purpose, and that we expected them, with more elders,
to come on the morrow for the purpose of ratifying
the treaty. To hasten them, we told them that delay
on their part would be construed by us as an act of
unfriendliness; that if they wished to remain happy
and unmolested, they must introduce a little more
celerity into their diplomacy; and that if the following
day passed without the leaders making their appearance,
the succeeding day would find their country the scene

of rapine and pillage.
R

242 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP. VI

Upon hearing these words the old men rose to their
feet, and danced with excitement and fury; but after
a short time they calmed down, and said that surely
the next day would see the treaty made. We ascer-
tained that the reason why the principal leaders among
the Embe appeared so bent upon prolonging the dis-
cussion of any question was that it was customary for
these old men, when considering a weighty matter to
subsist entirely upon a meat diet. The meat they eat
is the flesh of either sheep or goats, derived from the
fines which they inflict upon any delinquents in the
tribe who have been brought to them for trial.

Meat is considered so highly as a luxury, among
these people, that one of these old men is willing
to speak for an hour or two upon any subject, in
order to secure a pound or two of flesh. A story,
illustrating the methods of these elders in such mat-
ters, came to my ears during my stay among the
Embe upon this occasion. An old man_ possessing
a small flock of ten goats was accused by a neighbour
of having stolen two from him. Immediately the
old men of the adjacent villages assembled to dis-
cuss the matter, and mete out justice to the contend-
ing parties. They spent five days in the discussion,
during which time two goats per diem were needed
for their sustenance, which was supplied by the
defendant to the action, When they found his stock
had become exhausted, they adjudged the case in his
favour, and forced the plaintiff to pay to the defendant
two goats, for having accused him falsely.

I found that the government of the Embe was
in a sense patriarchal, in that the policy of the

FAN AHL JO SHAILVN ADIHO

WN ogo We:

CAs
A } Z y)) g
e Lilie D0 nt

ayifp
* \ ! WY 7 Yi) Yi y\)? ny Wy fl BS .

if

Z M7,

t
y
}

‘yp MP ph WW,
Mi). if

val

SS

5
4 =
Lee
t
~~
T=

CHAP. VI TRAVELS [N EASTERN AFRICA 245

country lay principally in the hands of the old men.
Their power is tempcred, however, by the fact that
the influence of two other classes is brought to bear
upon their deliberations in counsel. These two classes
are the newly married men and the warriors. The
richest and most influential old man in each vil-
lage is made the judge or arbiter in all disputes
arising between the inhabitants of that village. Such
questions as petty larceny, trespass, and violence are
submitted to him for adjudication. When an inhabi-
tant of one village inflicts some wrong upon a resi-
dent of another village, a joint commission is formed
consisting of the older and more influential men of
the two villages; and to this body there is generally
added a man of renowned sagacity, brought from
some distant village to express his opinion.

The whole Embe country, which comprises about
10,000 inhabitants, is divided into. several districts,
each possessing an old man who is supposed to be
so much more intelligent than his fellows, that his
voice carries most weight in all matters relating to
his district. These local divisions vary in size and
importance, and, as far as I could gather, are twelve
in number. The richest of all the districts was the
one in which we were encamped, and the headman of
this division of the Embe was an elder named Liria,
who happened to be one of the hostages we had
detained while in the Daitcho country.

The councils at which all questions of moment
are discussed are composed exclusively of old men;
that is, men who have been married for more than
five years. The warriors, as a class, are not repre-

246 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

sented in these deliberations. The newly married men
(that is, those who have been married for a_ period
not so long as five years) are given seats in the coun-
cils, but no voice. The home policy of the country
and its internal affairs are regulated entirely by the
old men. The foreign policy (if their dealings with
neighbouring tribes may fittingly be thus designated)
and the defence of their native land rest entirely in
the hands of the warriors; although in case of invasion
every able-bodied man is supposed to render all assist-
ance in his power.

For many years the warriors of the Embe nation
have not indulged in attacks upon neighbouring
tribes. Some years ago, however, the Masai were
accustomed to pasture their flocks on the Leikipia
plateau, but a few days journey from the Jombeni
range. In those days the young warriors of the
Embe country gathered together, formed raiding par-
ties of several hundred and ventured forth in search
of plunder. If successful, they would bring back many
head of cattle from the Masai; in which case they
would give a certain number to the influential men of
their village, the remainder being divided among the
warriors who composed the raiding party. The spoils
were supposedly divided among the warriors according
to merit; that is, the warrior who had performed the
doughtiest deeds claimed the greatest share. The
divisions of spoil often presented scenes of much more
bitter conflict than the preceding raid. It was not
always the warrior who had performed the bravest
feats at the time of the raid who profited most, for
perhaps he was incapacitated by his wounds from

VI TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 247

making an appearance, but it was he who at the time
of the division ‘was strongest, and was able by the
might of his strong right arm to seize and retain the
greatest amount of spoil.

Among the Embe as among the Daitcho, and in
fact among all the people who inhabit the slopes of
Mount Kenya and the Jombeni range, marriage is
by purchase; and the young warrior whose heart is
fired by the smile of some maiden whom he wishes
to possess is induced to go forth from his home
and plunder his neighbours, in order that he may
thereby acquire the means to purchase her from her
father.

It is only by means of the rankest superstition that
the old men are able to maintain their supremacy over
the hot-blooded youths. They convince the young
men that in the hands of the sages alone rest the
fate and fortune of the warriors in battle. Before a
war party sets out, the warriors from each district
are presented by the most influential men of the dis-
trict (in all cases one who is not only the richest and
wisest, but also most fluent in, speech, and can con-
vince them that he is possessed of supernatural power)
with some magic emblem, which they are told will
enable them to conquer in battle: If the party is
successful in the foray, the wise old man claims and
receives a share of the spoil. If they fail, he allows
no one to exceed him in the violence of his lamenta-
tions and imprecations; and insists that the warriors
must in some way, by their own ill judgment, have
interfered with the proper working of the charm he
gave them. Owing to the superstition of these youths,

248 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

the old men retain their control.. In fact, with the
elders it is: “ Heads, I win; tails, you lose.”

At the time I visited the Embe, there was not one
man in the entire tribe, who was considered so great
and powerful in magic as to be placed above his
fellow-workers; but not many miles distant from the
Embe, on the borders of the Janji country, there lived
a mighty wizard, named Donytuli Mono Vomari (Dony-
tuli, the son of Vomari). He was said to be an old
man stricken in years, but one whose skill and ability
were such that he had never been known to give
any but the very best advice in all matters connected
with either business or war. He was not a native of
the tribe among whom he dwelt. His father, Vomanri,
was a Masai medicine-man, who for some reason had
settled among the mountain people; and upon his
death his power, in greatly increased degree, had de-
scended upon his son. I was told that upon the
occasion of our visit to the Wamsara he, being asked
his advice, sent word to those people to treat us well,
in order that they might be treated well by us in
turn; and that the defeat which the Wamsara had
sustained at our hands tended greatly to increase his
influence. So, upon some of the elders of the Embe
going to him, and telling him that I was going to
visit their country, he laid stress upon it, that they
must treat us well in every way.

As previously stated, the men of the Embe country
are divided broadly into two classes— the warriors and
the old men. Between these two come the young
married men. These in some cases (for example, when
they are poor) join the warriors— who in all cases

vI TRAVELS [NM EASTERN AFRICA 249

are unmarried —upon their forays; but, as a rule,
marriage seems to sever once for all the bonds which
tie a man to the fighting class. For the first five years
they attend the gatherings of the old men, but are
not allowed to participate in the debates; nevertheless,
they are supposed to represent the warrior class in
these assemblies, and before a meeting takes place
they assemble, and appoint one of the old men to
represent this class in the debates.

I was unable to get as full information as I desired
in regard to the manners and customs of these people,
but succeeded in gathering a few points, among which
I deem the following of most interest.

The inhabitants of this mountain range, like all
Fast Africans who are not as yet converted to Chris-
tianity or Mohammedanism, had no clear idea of the
Deity. They supposed there was a Supreme Being
of some sort, and that it was their duty to propitiate
this Being before starting upon any enterprise. He
was supposed to be a stern God, and, as far as I
could gather, not altogether just; but in no small
measure open to the benign influence of bribery.
Before essaying any enterprise, sacrifices were offered,
not burnt offerings, but gourds filled with grain or
some other small tribute—of value, however, to the
giver. These were hung upon trees, or suspended
from forked sticks in the neighbourhood of the offerer’s
dwelling. Connected with this Supreme Being, and
so closely as scarcely to be disjoined, were the local
deities — such as the genii of the hills, holes, and
rivers. These likewise were to be propitiated in
some way, either by the inhabitants of the district

250 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

where the hills, holes, or rivers were located, or by the
person whose enterprise led him to the neighbour-
hood of such places.

The future was foretold by the wise men in two
ways: either by means of a gourd filled with different

i Age

EMBE SHEPHERDS

coloured pebbles, or by means of two bits of leather
shaped like sandals, and covered on one side with
ornamental designs. The gourd and pebbles were
used as follows. The old man, placing the pebbles
in the gourd, shook it up, meanwhile uttering some
magic words, and then allowed the stones one by one

v1 TRAVELS [NV EASTERN AFRICA 251

to drop out into his left hand. The message of Fate
was conveyed by the manner in which they emerged
from the hole in the gourd, and thus was determined
the outcome of the enterprise under consideration.
The strips of leather were used after the following
manner. One strip was held in each hand, and the
seer, closing his eyes, danced back and forth for
a time, repeating words of supposed magic import,
meanwhile beating the strips together. After a time
a strip was thrown over each shoulder, and the
position in which they fell upon the ground de-
termined whether the omen was good or evil. — Pro-
phesying by this latter means is not confined to the
old men, for the old women likewise claim skill in
thus foretelling the course of events.
Circumcision was practised among these people
after the manner of the Masai. The circumcisor was
invariably a man of not more than middle age. The
operation was performed upon the boys at an age, as
near as I could judge, between eight and ten.
When a young woman has reached a marriageable
age, and her hand has been sought by some warrior,
the young man pays his attentions to her father. He
bargains for her as he would for merchandise — so
many goats, so many yams, so much work upon the
father’s plantation, etc. When the purchase price has
been mutually agreed to, the young man must by hook
or crook possess himself of a sufficient quantity of
honey-wine to enable his future father-in-law to indulge
in a state of thorough intoxication. This latter act is
considered a necessary one, and a fitting seal to the
bargain. After consent has been wrung from the un-

252 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

willing parent, the young woman is decked in all her
finery, and sent in company with another girl (invariably
one of plainer appearance, that she may fittingly act
as a foil to the future bride’s charms) from village to
village, and in some cases from district to district,
where she dances and shows herself to all her friends
and acquaintances, in order that she may receive from
them gifts appropriate to the occasion of her marriage.
This is continued for several days, ceasing only when
she or her parents are satisfied that the generosity of
the neighbours has been exhausted. Then is she given
over into the hands of the old women. The young
man presently comes to claim his bride, and from that
day on they are man and wife.

The position of women here is from birth an entirely
subservient one, unless by chance in their old age they
are sufficiently intelligent to convince their neighbours
of their possession of supernatural power; in which
case their influence is almost as great as that of a
medicine-man.

The young girls and boys move about entirely unclad.
At the age of ten, or thereabouts, the young girl dons
a bit of leather, or a short skirt of other material, worn
about the waist; but after marriage the women are clad,
almost to the extent of decency, with hides and skins.

The boys after circumcision wear a short cloak simi-
lar to that worn by the warriors; and the old men wear
a whole cowhide, or, if particularly wealthy, they may
indulge in the extravagance of clothing themselves in
a warm robe of monkey skins. After marriage the
short cloak worn during youth and early manhood is
laid aside.

VI TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 253

Among the Embe the dead are accorded scant cere-
mony. As soon as life is ascertained to be extinct, the
dead bodies are thrown out into the fields, where the
keen-scented hyena, or some other beast of prey, soon
removes all signs of the deceased. Life is to these
people such an interesting matter, that it seems to en-
gross their entire attention, and little thought is taken
of the body after the spirit has forsaken it.

The sole amusement of the people is dancing. The
old men and old women dance together, and the war-
riors with the maidens. At the dances of the elders
honey-wine flows freely, and debauchery is always the
result. The young people, however, are not allowed
to partake of the stimulant, which among these excit-
able people does not seem to be necessary in youth;
but by leaping into the air, and indulging in tumult-
uous shouts, they work themselves to such a pitch
of fury as apparently to lose their reason; they foam
at the mouth and hurl themselves upon the ground,
where they writhe. The facility with which a warrior
enters into this epileptic condition is accepted as evi-
dence of the degree in which he possesses the martial
spirit; and it is said of the experts in this line, that
their enemies will vanish before them as dew before
the rising sun. The desire to win such favourable
opinion leads many of the warriors to assume a degree
of frenzy which they do not possess; but should the
counterfeiter be discovered, he is forced to submit to
very rough treatment.

There are three articles manufactured by the Embe;
implements of war, implements of agriculture, and
ornaments for the person. Iron is found in large

254 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

quantities on the plains surrounding the Jombeni
range —mostly in the dried watercourses. The sand
or bits of stone impregnated with the iron are gathered
and carried to the mountains, where they are sold to
the smiths. There is no coal found upon the moun-
tains; so they use charcoal for smelting purposes. The
tools of the smith consist of a rude iron hammer,
pincers, and bellows,—the latter being clumsily made
from skins. In each district there are to be found
several smiths; these are kept busy from day to day,
welding spears, swords, arrow heads, and arrow tips.
The spears and swords are well made, but very poorly
tempered. They have no files, and their weapons are
sharpened by whetting upon a stone.

The women are very proficient in weaving bags.
The stitch which they use in weaving appears most
complicated, but an excellent article is the result of
their work. The bags are made in several sizes,—
some large enough to contain a bushel. The fibre
used in weaving is taken from the inner bark of a
tree growing upon the mountains.

The bows of the warriors consist of straight sticks,
the ends of which are not curved backward, as in the
so-called Asiatic bow. The arrows are not more than
two feet in length, but are very well made, — the tips
being carefully inserted and the ends skilfully feathered.

The natives reported that their plantations were
often visited by elephants and rhinoceroses. As a
safeguard against the inroads of these beasts, the
frontier of the country was skirted with deep pits, at
the bottoms of which sharp, poisoned sticks were
placed in an upright position.

VI TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 256

The portion of the Jombeni range which we first
visited, and where we secured Motio, is the most cov-
ered by forests, and therefore is the most recently set-
tled portion of the range. We found people engaged
in making clearings in the forest and founding new
settlements; which is evidence that the land already
under cultivation did not yield sufficient for the needs
of the growing tribe.

The language of the people throughout the Jombeni
range is much the same, and is akin to that spoken
by the dwellers on Mount Kenya. Probably, therefore,
the inhabitants of the Jombeni range are offshoots of
the Kikuyu who inhabit the slopes of Mount Kenya.
Naturally, then, it is to be supposed that they first en-
tered into possession of the portion of the range lying
nearest the home from which they had set out. Immi-
gration must have taken place many years ago; for
the Jombeni range, when I visited it, was but sparsely
covered with forests, and the principal forest lay at the
northern end of the range.

In the better portion of the Embe country, I found
that land was not only held by individual proprietors,
but that a certain amount of territory was held in
common by the inhabitants of one, and, in some cases,
of several villages. On these commons were pastured
the flocks of the people by whom the land was held.

It is to be supposed that this condition of affairs
was arrived at in much the following manner. When
the first pioneers reached the country, each family
made a clearing for itself, and reserved some land in
the immediate neighbourhood to be used as pasture for
its flocks. As the population grew, and the land

256 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

already under their cultivation was no longer sufficient
for proper sustenance, parties of young people set out
and made small clearings; which in turn they divided
into property held by individuals, and property held in
common by the members of the little community. I
inquired whether in any event the common or pasture
land was encroached upon by plantations, and received
a negative response. If a man’s flocks or herds grew
so numerous that he was unable properly to pasture
them upon the common land of the village in which he
lived, he was forced to purchase an interest in that of
some other village, where the common land was more
than sufficient for the needs of the inhabitants. In
this way, the richer men in the Embe country pos-
sessed interest in several holdings, which in some
cases were separated by considerable distances.

At first sight, one would suppose that nothing could
prevent a member of the Embe tribe, with shrewd-
ness, intelligence, and industry, from becoming rich
far above his fellows, and arrogating to himself a pre-
ponderating influence in the tribe. In my first deal-
ings with the people I had asked, “Who is your
king?” The reply was, “There is no king.” No
man dared to claim a greater share of power than his
neighbour. When industry and activity coupled with
intelligence are found, one is apt to look for and ex-
pect ambition for power, but I was struck by the
apparent absence of it among these people. An ex-
tended acquaintance with them developed the cause
of this unity of interest and lack of individuality.
There could be no Cesar among the Embe, unless
a man should come among them whose body was

VI TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 257

proof against poison. As soon as a man took it
upon himself to claim power among these people, by
reason either of superlative ability, or of wealth, as
the result of such ability, he was taken off in short
order, ~The art of the poisoner is handed down
from father to son, and the poisoners, in almost all
cases, are the most influential men of the villages.
But in no community of these people is there but one
poisoner; and the presence of several of these wretches
seems to prevent one of their number from rising to
supreme power.

The poisons used are of two kinds, vegetable and
animal. The vegetable poisons are used only on the
tips of their arrows, or, in rare instances, upon the
points of their spears and swords. It is by means of
the animal poisons alone that these poisoners exercise
their power. Their poisons, as far as I could learn, are
extracted from serpents and decayed animal matter.
It was easy to distinguish the poisoner from his fellows.
He wore suspended from his neck and waist charms
consisting of bits of wood and small antelope horns.
Another indication was, that when he took from a
small bag (customarily carried by all the old men of
the Embe) a piece of cassava, manioc, sugar-cane, or the
highly prized miraa, and offered it to his neighbour,
the proffered gift was declined.

The manner in which the lands are held, and the
absolute absence of anything tending to establish the
supremacy of one individual above his fellows, together
with the general looseness of the government, all go to
show the weaknesses and advantages attendant upon a

purely socialistic state. Perhaps it is the limited horizon
Ss

258 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

that meets the intellectual gaze of every native of this
country which prevents, more than all else, their advance-
ment on the road toward civilization. ‘Their interests
are purely personal, and, at furthest, local. They seemed
actuated by no curiosity about my home and my coun-
try in the questions
which they asked me.
In this connection they
showed a marked dif-
ference from the inhab-

itants of Kilimanjiro,
although perhaps oth-
erwise their equals.
There, the different
chiefs never appeared
so interested as when
questioning me about

the way I lived at home,
and about the relative
power of the different
countriés of Europe;

I although they had no
“a i

cil conception of geogra-
HM cs f

phy and had rarely, if
ever, heard that the few
white men who visited
them belonged to dif-
ferent nationalities.

As may readily be supposed, the Embe had no
exact measure of time. They counted from moon to
moon, and from rainy season to rainy season. If
more than one rainy season had elapsed between

LIRIA

Most influential man among the Embe

VI TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 259

events, they contented themselves with the statement
that the event happened long ago. Their method of
counting was similar to that of the Masai. They
counted by tens to fifty; beyond fifty was “ many,”
and a greater number was “very many.” This was
expressed by several repetitions of the word “ipi”
(fifty). In matters of business they were unwilling to
trust to a verbal count. In trading, as, for example,
in acquiring a donkey, which had a value of six goats,
or other equivalent, they would produce six small
sticks, and as the value of each goat was tendered,
whether in iron wire, beads, or cloth, they would put
aside one of the twigs, and repeat this action until the
full value of the donkey had been accounted for.

For all property of considerable value, such, for
example, as a woman, a cow, donkey, land, a house,
ivory, or the highly prized honey-wine, the unit of
value was a goat; but in the purchase of grain, beans,
or edible tuberous roots, trade, among themselves,
was regulated not by any particular standard of value,
but by the eagerness expressed by one for the goods
of the other. For instance, a woman with a bag of
manioc would be able to exchange it for whatever
she considered its equivalent in grain or beans,
should she excite in some one having such articles
a similar desire for what she brought to market. It
was only in the barter and sale of vegetables and
grain that the women were allowed to engage.
Where articles of considerable value were bought or
sold, the matter was considered of too great moment
to be left to the feminine mind. Among themselves,
or with neighbouring tribes with whom they had es-

260 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

tablished friendly relations, trade was carried on with
great vigour; but when visited by strangers, as they
have no idea of establishing trade with the outside
world, the chief desire seemed to be to rob them,
and possess the wealth of the stranger with as little
cost to themselves as possible.

These were the people with whom we were to make
a treaty. We intended and hoped that the treaty, once
ratified, would go far toward enabling Europeans and
traders from the coast to enter the Embe country with-
out danger and transact business with them.

The next day, shortly after noon, Liria came to my
tent, and with solemn mien informed me that the elders
of the Embe were gathered together for the purpose
of going through the ceremony of muma with me.
After a short chat, I went with him to a hill a short
distance above our camp, and there saw about fifty of
their influential men gathered together. Among their
number I recognized several who had made trouble
with us during our former stay in this country, in
February. After an exchange of greetings, Lieutenant
von Hohnel and I accompanied them to a small island
formed by a fork in a brook near by. They told us
that this island was sacred to muma-making of the
gravest type. Twenty selected elders joined us here,
and hundreds of men, young and old, were crowded
together, overlooking the ceremony. The first order
given was for the removal of all weapons from the
island, as the muma was to be a peace muma, and the
presence of any sort of weapon would render all efforts
invalid. This was followed by the presentation of a
small stick covered with thorns to Lieutenant von

VI TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 261

Hohnel and me, and we were instructed to remove
each thorn carefully from the stick. This completed,
cheers went up from the resounding hills. Then a
female sheep was brought and offered up as a sacrifice ;
next a small palm branch was given to each of us—
one, likewise, being retained in the hands of each of
the elders, and each branch having been dipped in the
blood of the sheep. Waving them on high, we all
declared our everlasting friendship for one another,
and called down curses upon the one who should first
endeavour to break the bond of amity and_ peace.
Then a small strip of skin was cut from each of the
hind legs of the sheep, and, a hole being punched in
these, they were placed upon our fingers as rings.
This completed the ceremony, and we returned to
camp, more than 1000 natives accompanying us, beat-
ing their bows and arrows together, and_ shouting:
“The European is now the brother of the Embe!
The European is now the brother of the Embe!”
Arrived at our camp, we presented the old men
with gifts, which drew from them expressions of satis-
faction and pleasure, and they said that henceforth all
white men would be welcomed as brothers. I hastened
to add that the same treatment must be accorded all
Zanzibari traders from the coast. To this, eventually,
they unwillingly agreed. They then asked us for
“medicine” with which to fight a rival tribe, which
inhabited a part of the country three or four days’
journey from them. To this request we replied that
the time was unsuited for the making of war medicine;
for, should we do so, it would probably have a dire
effect upon the peace muma we had just celebrated.

262 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

We discovered that there had been present, during
the ceremony of muma-making, a representative sent
by Donytuli, the great medicine-man; which proved
his desire to enter into bonds of friendship with the
Europeans. We rewarded him for this by sending him
a large present; and thought it was with this possible
end in view that his representative was sent to attend
the treaty-making.

The next day we returned to Daitcho, and again
found the difference in the air very noticeable. Dait-
cho is but 2500 feet above sea-level, while the Embe
country is 5000. We there found the Zanzibari expe-
dition of thirty men returned from their venture among
the Wanderobbo. They reported that ill luck had
attended them throughout the journey; that all their
donkeys had died, and they were forced to eat the food.
Doubt of the truth of their statement was removed
when we observed their fat and sleek appearance.
They wished me to give them a letter to their master
at the coast, in testimony of the efforts they had made
to earn large sums; and were very much surprised when
I declined. I have no doubt that their meeting with
their masters at the coast was a stormy one.

We spent the next two or three days in preparations
for our departure. Our long stay at Daitcho had
enabled us to purchase and lay in a supply of food
sufficient for nearly forty days for the entire caravan.
Most of this was in flour.

The day before our departure George arrived with
thirty-seven donkeys; thirty of these were loaded with
food. We took with us ten loads of various trading-
goods — flannel blankets, Scotch shawls, the most

VI TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 263

expensive sorts of beads, brass chains, and a number
of agates, which we heard were much prized in the
north. These ten loads were sufficient to buy camels
and donkeys, and we hoped the quality of the goods
would please the most fastidious natives. We ex-
pected by the introduction of such articles as flannel
shawls and blankets to inspire these people with a
desire for trade with Europeans; for we knew that no
Arabs or Zanzibari would take such expensive goods.

Before the departure of the Beloochi, with their
caravan, they paid us a visit, and after the usual beg-
ging, by which they succeeded in getting a good
present, they told us something about the country
to the north. They themselves had never seen the
Rendile, but had met a man who, some years before,
while trading with the Wanderobbo, had fallen in with
a large party of these people. He found it impossible
to trade with them, and was forced to decamp during
the night lest he should be attacked. The Beloochi
assured us that a large force would be required for
a trip to the Rendile country, as all the rumours they
had heard tended to show that the character of the
Rendile was most overbearing and ferocious.

We had decided to take with us sixty-five men, the
pick of our caravan, and a large quantity of ammuni-
tion. We judged this number of men to be sufficient
for defence, at least, and we placed great confidence in
the quality of our goods to induce the Rendile to
trade with us.

On the third day Hamidi with six men was de-
spatched to the coast, accompanying the Swahili cara-
van of thirty men. He was told, again and again, that

264 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

he was to return without fail within three months.
This period, should he make the slightest effort, we
felt confident would be amply sufficient; and he as-
sured us that, should he meet with no mishap, we
should find him at Daitcho upon our return from the
Rendile.

Upon our return to Daitcho from the Embe, we
were so fortunate as to find in one of the villages a
Wanderobbo, who had just returned from the desert.
He expressed a willingness to accompany us, and added
that he knew the country well; and though he was
ignorant of the whereabouts of the Rendile, he could
take us to some of his own people, who would gladly
lead us to that tribe. He said that he had been
forced to leave the desert, owing to the famine preva-
lent among his people; and his emaciated body served
to confirm his statement.

As we were about to venture upon an enterprise
the outcome of which was clouded with uncertainty,
I left with George a letter of instructions, which he was
to follow in case anything happened to us. Should
we not return to Daitcho by January 1, 1894, he was
instructed to return to the coast; for in such case we
should probably have met with such a mishap that
longer stay on his part would be useless. With our
cattle, sheep, and goats, together with the food carried
by the donkeys, we were equipped with food for sev-
enty-five days; and as the country to the north was
reported to be well supplied with game, we felt that
we had sufficient for nearly five months.

During the afternoon of June 5, Lieutenant von
Hohnel and I, accompanied by sixty-five men, bade fare-

VI TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 265

well to Daitcho, and turned our faces to the north.
Our hearts beat high with hope. We felt convinced
that should fortune favour us in the slightest degree,
we should not only accomplish geographical discovery,
but return to Daitcho well supplied with beasts of
burden; which, together with the supplies we had or-
dered Hamidi to bring from the coast, would enable
us to start out equipped for eighteen months’ further
exploration; and this, after a stay of already more than
one year in the interior.

CHAPTER Vii

Our guide told us that at a point two days’ journey
beyond the Guaso Nyiro River we could find Wan-
derobbo able to conduct us. Our route to the Guaso
Nyiro River, at least as far as the Ngombe crater, was
the same as we had taken on our way to Lorian.
But two events of interest occurred on our way to
this point. On one occasion, two days’ journey from
Daitcho, I descended from a slight rise at the head
of my caravan, and saw before me, browsing on the
plain not 300 yards distant, two rhinoceroses. The
wind was blowing from us to them, and [ little ex-
pected that we should have opportunity to get near
enough to kill them. As I descended the slope
toward the plain on which they were pasturing, they
seemed simultaneously to become aware of our pres-
ence, and with a snort raised their heads, and gazed
in our direction. The action of each upon making
this discovery was different: one of them made off
as fast as it could canter in the direction of the hills
rising on our left, while the other, pausing for a mo-
ment, as if to make sure of our whereabouts, lowered
its head to the ground, and charged us in a deter-
mined manner. I called for my gun-bearer, Karscho,
but found that for some reason he had remained be-

hind for a moment; so that I was forced to seize a
266

CHAP. VII TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 267

Mannlicher from one of the Soudanese at the head of
the column. The rhinoceros approached to within 150
yards of the caravan, and then turned off at a slight
angle to our right, thus presenting a fair mark. |
fired three shots in quick succession, but as they ap-
peared to have no effect upon the movements of the
animal, I concluded I had missed. On it plunged for
perhaps 200 yards; and while I was hesitating whether
or not to give it the two remaining shots in the mag-
azine, it suddenly tumbled to the ground, and lay life-
less on its side. Upon examination, I found that all
three shots had taken effect, but so far back in its
body as not to have had immediate effect upon the
activity of the animal. One shot entered between
the last two ribs; the other two penetrated the space
between the ribs and the hind leg. If these wounds
had been inflicted with an express rifle, I feel that I
am correct in stating that I should never have gotten
the rhinoceros. On several occasions in my former
journey I “put more than. nine .577 shots into the
loins of a rhinoceros, without producing any more
apparent effect than to accelerate its speed.

The meat of this beast was most welcome to my men.
It was a female, and having pastured on the new grass
brought out by the late rains, was in excellent condition.

The other adventure was less pleasant and satisfac-
tory. Upon reaching our old camp under the giant
baobab in the neighbourhood of the Kora crater, we
found that, notwithstanding the fact that the rains had
just ended, there was not a drop of water in the imme-
diate neighbourhood. We went waterless to bed that
night. Knowing that between us and the Guaso Nyiro

268 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

there lay a weary stretch of desert country, Lieutenant
von Hodhnel set out early on the following morning
in search of water, with all the men, with the excep-
tion of my two tent-boys, who remained with me to
guard the camp. Late that night they returned, hav-
ing watered all the animals, and filled the goat-skin
bags and camp kettles. It was by mere chance, how-
ever, that Lieutenant von Hoéhnel found water. For
hours they searched in every nook and cranny. At
length, late in the afternoon, they came upon a well-
beaten rhinoceros path, which they followed until they _
arrived at what had once been a pool of water, but was
then empty. The soil at the bottom was not yet dried;
so by working with sharp sticks and the bayonets of
the porters, a little well was soon dug, into which at
the slowest possible rate water trickled. There proved
to be just sufficient in this hollow to satisfy the imme-
diate wants of the caravan. Had we failed in finding
water that day, we should have been forced to retrace
our steps to the headwaters of the Mackenzie, fill our
water-skins there, and set out afresh.

On the roth of June we reached Ngombe crater, and
there camped. Our Wanderobbo guide said that the
water in the crater was at all times drinkable. This we
doubted, as we had tasted it on our former visit; never-
theless, the men were sent down to verify or discredit
his statement. They returned with water strongly im-
pregnated with sulphate of magnesium, yet drinkable.
This water was not taken from the main hole in the
centre of the crater, but from a small and well-con-
cealed spring which rose in a fissure between two rocks
on the side.

VII TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 269

June 11 was my twenty-sixth birthday; it was spent
upon the bleak side of the crater. With the excep-
tion of the caravan, there was no sign of life in view.
Even in the rainy season this portion of the desert is
never covered with grass. Small, stunted, and almost
lifeless mimosa raised their twisted forms here and there
on the plain. Of game there was none; and were it
not for the well-beaten path which leads from the crater
to the Jombeni range, one might imagine one’s self
thousands of miles away from life in any form. How-
ever, I accepted as my birthday present the fact that
the water in the crater proved drinkable. Disagreeable
though its flavour, my men seemed really to enjoy it.
It was months since many of them had tasted salt, so
that they welcomed its taste as a delicacy, and feasted
the entire day upon what was left of the rhinoceros
meat. From the Ngombe crater our route to the
Guaso Nyiro lay more to the southward than the one
made use of upon our Lorian journey. Our Wan-
derobbo guide told us that he would lead us in two
days to a place where we could ford the Guaso Nyiro
River. To find such a place was an absolute neces-
sity, for we knew the stream would be much swollen
by the recent rains, and altogether impassable in most
places.

The next day we marched twelve miles across the
desert lying between the Jombeni range and the river.
What was our surprise to find in the centre of the
desert a large bubbling spring, shaded by acacia trees.
There we pitched our camp. About eight miles to
the southward rose Mount Chabba; and due east, just
above the level of the desert, we could discern the tops

270 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

of the dhum palms which outlined the course of the
Guaso Nyiro. Immediately upon leaving Daitcho our
donkeys exhibited signs of sickness, and by the time
we reached this point, seven of them had died. When
we set out a few days before, each one of them appeared
fat and lusty; and we thought we had at length rid
ourselves of the disease which had deprived us of so
many beasts of burden. We had thirty of them left,
and ten head of cattle; so we were not downcast,
as we trusted the assurances of our guide, that he
would soon take
us to people who
would lead us
to the Rendile,
where we could
purchase more
beasts of burden.

While at this
camp, Lieuten-
ant von Hohnel
killed a rhinoc-
eros, and one of the Soudanese, while on watch in the
early morning, shot an oryx beisa; so I decided to
rest here another day. Large herds of zebra (chap-
manz) roamed in the immediate neighbourhood of the
camp; so near, in fact, that we were able to take pho-

AN EMBE DONKEY

tographs of them.

While upon the subject of photographs, I may say
that we had taken with us two cameras: one of small
size made in Paris, which took a negative four by
five inches, and could be used without a tripod; and
another, much larger, which took a negative seven by

VII TRAVELS [N EASTERN AFRICA 271

eight inches. For the latter we had three lenses, one
for landscape, another, a rectilinear, and the third, tele-
objective. The latter is a very useful invention, and
with it one is able to take photographs at great dis-
tances, as the lens possesses magnifying power. We
had goo plates with us, and took over 500 photographs
during our journey; but on account of the poor quality
of the water we did not deem it well to try the develop-
ment of these plates in the interior. So we carefully
packed and soldered them in air-tight tins, and, as
opportunity occurred, we shipped instalments of them
to Europe, where they were developed by Mr. Thom-
son, of London. Unfortunately, more than one-half
of our plates turned out poorly, and from these, of
course, Mr. Thomson was unable to get good results.
This may have been due to faulty packing; or, what
is more probable, to the fact that the gelatine upon
the plates may have decomposed, as they were kept
for a long time before developing — some of the nega-
tives having been kept nearly two years.

Whenever occasion offered, Lieutenant von Hohnel
made use of the photographic apparatus, and it is a
matter of deepest regret that we were unable to pre-
serve more of the plates in sufficiently good condition
to obtain worthy results. It is difficult to obtain good
results from photography on one of these journeys, as
the opportunities for giving attention to development
are few, when the caravan is on the march. Upon
my former journey I carried a small kodak and took,
with some pains, and not a little danger, 100 photo-
graphs of camp scenes, natives, and big game. What
was my disgust, upon reaching Europe and delivering

272 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

my kodak to the Eastman Company in London, to
ascertain that there had been no film in my appara-
tus; consequently all my efforts had been in vain! I
know, however, of one gentleman (Mr. Baumann, the
Austrian traveller), who achieved the most satisfactory
results from a large kodak, while upon a journey last-
ing more than a year.

It is really impossible for an African traveller to
be an expert in all the different branches of science
and art found useful during his journeys. To be a
perfect traveller one should be a geographer, doctor,
surveyor, mineralogist, photographer, ethnologist, min-
ing expert, philologist, entomologist, and zodlogist.
These are but a few of the qualifications required for
the best results from effort. Added to these, there
should be knowledge of the natives, a strong consti-
tution, determination to proceed at any cost, money,
diplomacy; and last, but by no means least, patience
and humanity are necessary. The ideal explorer has
as yet to be born. But bearing in mind the inability
of two or three Europeans to comprise in their per-
sons all the knowledge and qualities essential to ideal
success, there still exists no reason that one should
confine his efforts only to those subjects with which
he is thoroughly familiar. Even the most limited
success, attended by no matter how great effort, is of
value in adding to the world’s knowledge. To me at
least, the words of Robert Louis Stevenson seem
true: “It is not by success alone that one should
judge useful effort.”

Mr. Stanley said, I think, that the time had not
yet come for the scientific traveller to visit Africa,

VII TRAVELS [NV EASTERN AFRICA 273

and that as yet only pioneers were necessary — men
who should travel through the country and_ build
roads. . lo a,;great. extent this is true; but there is
no reason why men possessed of the will, if not of
the most transcendent ability, should not endeavour to
add their modicum to a more comprehensive knowl-
edge of countries heretofore unknown.

On the evening of June 14 we reached the forda-
ble point of the Guaso Nyiro. It is about four miles
to the northwest of Mount Chabba. On the opposite
bank the land rises to the height of 1000 feet above
the surface of the stream which washes its base.
There it is only thirty yards wide and but five feet
deep; -but the current, swollen by the recent. rains,
flowed with great rapidity between its steep banks.
Two more donkeys died there; and, as we were una-
ble to carry the loads of food they had borne, we
buried the loads, four in number, in a secure hiding-
place among the rocks, trusting they would prove of
service to us upon our return journey. We spent
one day on the banks of the Guaso Nyiro, and
greatly enjoyed bathing in the river. It was undoubt-
edly well filled with crocodiles; but the soothing
murmur and cool swirl of the waters wooed us from
caution, and without hesitation we plunged several
times into the stream; happily, with no ill result.

The following day we crossed the river, followed
along its left bank a distance of four miles, and then
made camp. There another donkey and several goats
died. In the afternoon I took a soup-plate, and
spent two hours washing for gold in the sands on

the river bank. Perhaps it was owing to my inex-
B

274 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

perience, or perhaps to the fact that there was no
gold there; but be it as it may, my efforts were un-
attended with success. After two hours I gave up
the gold-hunting in disgust, having succeeded in ac-
cumulating but several handfuls of black sand.

The next day an eight hours’ march brought us to
a low gneiss hill, down the face of which trickled a
diminutive stream. It disappeared in the sand at the
base of the cliff, but after digging there we succeeded
in getting sufficient water for all the men and beasts.
Near our camp we found some rude shelters thrown
up by the natives. These, our guide told us, had
been built by the Jombeni range people within the
past year, while engaged in a raid upon the Wan-
derobbo. As the Wanderobbo possess no cattle or
goats, these raids are for the purpose of making
slaves of such natives as the raiders succeed in capt-
uring. According to our guide, the preceding raid
had resulted in the capture of a dozen women and
children.

On setting out from this camp, our guide pointed to
a mountain ten miles distant, rising to a considerable
height, and told us that there we should find his people,
and be able to procure guides to lead us to the Rendile.

On the march Lieutenant von Hohnel invariably
walked in the rear of the caravan, as it was his custom
frequently to take bearings of the different hills with
his prismatic compass. On this day, while making
such an observation, he saw, running at top speed
across the plain in front of him, four elephants. He
quickly seized a Mannlicher from his gun-bearer, and
fired three shots at the nearest animal, which happened

VII TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 275

to be the largest. Before it moved 600 yards, the ele-
phant fell. Word was sent to me, and I halted the
caravan, having first despatched our guide with two
Masai interpreters, to search for water on the slopes
of the large mountain pointed out to us. This moun-
tain was called Lolokwi, and was then but a few miles
distant. The strict Mohammedans absolutely refuse to
eat elephant meat, but among my men were many who
placed the gratification of appetite far above religious
scruple, and it is almost needless to add that the Sou-
danese were of this latter number.

The elephant proved to be a female possessed of very
fair tusks (the pair weighing nearly forty pounds), and
as it was female ivory, it was worth nearly five dollars
a pound. Those of the men who indulged in elephant
meat attacked the huge body, and in less than two
hours they had added to their already heavy burdens
vast chunks of the juicy flesh. Having removed the
tusks, we permitted our men to supply themselves with
such of the meat as they wanted, and then resumed our
march. By 4 p.m. we were encamped on the slopes of
Lolokwi. Water we found, but in the smallest possible
quantity, near a few huts long before deserted by their
former occupants, the Wanderobbo. The Wanderobbo
stand in such dread of attack that they build their vil-
lages in almost inaccessible spots, and in places well
hidden from casual view. They are careful not to
make use of one path to and fro, so that it is not until
we had quite reached one of their villages, that we were
aware of its proximity. My guide was much distressed
at finding that these people had gone away. Six weeks
had elapsed since he left them, and they had then told

276 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

him that they would remain on the sides of Mount
Lolokwi for many months. Our Masai interpreters,
who had formerly had experience with the Wande-
robbo, were convinced that we should find some _ of
that tribe in the neighbourhood of this mountain, and
the following day they set out in search of them, and
brought to camp one old man and seven old women.
The people they brought to us were mere skeletons,
scantily clad in well-worn pieces of antelope hide.
Our Masai interpreters reported that they had had
the greatest difficulty in inducing these people to
accompany them, and it was not until they had told
them we had slain an elephant the day before that
they would follow them. They stopped but long
enough to greet us, and then went forth in all haste
to gather what the hyenas and vultures had left of the
elephant Lieutenant von Hoéhnel had killed the pre-
vious day. Twenty-four hours later they returned,
bringing with them but the bones of the elephant,
as the hyenas and vultures had devoured the meat.
Nevertheless, these people were satisfied with the
bones; they said they were full of marrow, and that,
when the marrow was exhausted, they could pulverize
the bones and make a pulp which would last them
many days. They had been without other food than
berries for fifteen days, as the able-bodied men of their
village had been away hunting for that length of time,
and had not yet returned. They expected them daily,
and when they returned, these people said, we should
have no difficulty in procuring guides for the continu-
ance of our march. These Wanderobbo supported
life to a great extent upon wild honey, which they

VII TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA Big,

found in quantities upon the slopes of Mount Lo-
lokwi.

The appearance of Lolokwi is most strange. Almost
rectangular in shape, it rises to a height of 3000 feet
above the plain, its steep sides and flat top giving it
the appearance of a monstrous sepulchre. In the rainy
season, abundant water is found in small streams tum-
bling down its sides; but in the dry season one must
be well acquainted with the surrounding country to find
even a drop of the precious liquid.

The Wanderobbo not only make hives by rudely
hollowing logs, but are able to procure a great quantity
of honey by following the honey bird. This bird is a
most extraordinary creature, and its call is easily dis-
tinguished. If it finds honey, it will fly to the neigh-
bourhood of human beings, and by persistent singing
finally succeeds in attracting attention. It then flies
slowly off, stopping occasionally to permit the man
following it to catch up; until at length it reaches the
hollow in the ground, or in a log or tree, where there
is the nest of bees. The native then advances, and
satisfies himself; but is ever careful to leave behind a
portion of the honey as the share of the bird.

After our arrival at Lolokwi, four of the donkeys
died. When we had stayed two days, our water-hole
became exhausted, and we were forced to climb the face
of the mountain a further height of 500 feet, in order
to supply the wants of our caravan. We remained at
Lolokwi six days, owing to the delayed arrival of the
Wanderobbo, whom we were to secure for guides.
During these days, Lieutenant von Hoéhnel made an
excursion to some hills lying to the south of Lolokwi,

278 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

from which he got a good view, and was able to see
the point of the Guaso Nyiro which he had reached
on his former journey. This enabled him to complete
his map of that river. Owing to the arid nature of
the country, game was very scarce, and what little there
was, was far too shy to permit us a shot. I spent most
of the time during our stay in questioning the old

i
i mM

|

Feraji Baraka Juma

TENT-BOyYsS

Wanderobbo, who, for the sake of a little food, appeared
willing to give me all the information that lay in his
power.

The Wanderobbbo we saw at this place were not
elephant hunters; so they had rarely been visited by
trading caravans. They lived entirely upon antelope
flesh (which the able-bodied men shot with their bows
and arrows), wild honey, and what berries and fruits
the desert afforded. With the exception of the few
days immediately after the arrival of a successful party

VII TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 279

of hunters, these Wanderobbo lived in a state of chronic
starvation ; for occasions when sufficient honey to satisfy
an entire village was procured were rare.

Upon Lolokwi there lived but one settlement of
Wanderobbo, composed, all told, of but fifty souls.
Of these ten were active enough to hunt; then there
was one old man, and the remainder were women and
children. It seems that in this tribe the females greatly
outnumber the males. This perhaps is explained by
what my old friend told me. He said that women were
capable of supporting life without food for many more
days than men.

These Wanderobbo all spoke the Masai language.
They had few implements of any sort—four or five
rudely shaped clay pots for carrying water and cooking,
a few small axes, similar in shape to those I had seen
on the Jombeni range, bows, arrows, and knives. I
asked the old man why they did not go to the moun-
tains, settle down with the people there, and work, and
thus be relieved forever from starvation and famine.
He said: No, they were fond of their mode of life;
they knew no other; their fathers had lived the same
life before them, and they were unwilling to trust them-
selves in the vicinage of any other people. The worst
time for them was during the rains; for then they were
unable to use their bows, as the strings frayed and
broke. During the rainy season they literally starved ;
those of greatest vitality surviving, while the weaker
ones died. Their one pleasure is the intoxication pro-
duced by honey-wine.

Lolokwi is one of the southernmost mountains of
the General Matthews range, which extends from the

280 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

Guaso Nyiro, in a_ northwesterly direction, until it
reaches Lake Rudolph. From our camp on Lolokwi
we could see Mount Gerguess, at a distance of ten
miles, rising abruptly from the plain in a series of
jagged and forest-covered peaks. The summit of this
mountain is 10,000 feet above the sea-level, and it is
said to be inhabited by several bands of Wanderobbo
who live solely upon honey, and upon no occasion ven-
ture forth from the fastnesses of their mountain home
to the plain below.

From Gerguess the line of the General Matthews
range stretches almost unbroken to Lake Rudolph.
Its principal peaks are Mallon, Lassuran, Merkeben,
Doto, Saddim, and Myiro. The old Wanderobbo told
me that he had spent his entire life in the neighbour-
hood of Lolokwi, and only on rare occasions had vis-
ited the banks of the Guaso Nyiro; consequently he
was unacquainted with any roads to the north. How-
ever, he had heard his brothers talk about different
roads, and he appeared quite willing to tell me all he
knew about them. He said that during the rainy sea-
son it was possible to follow the line of the moun-
tains (meaning the General Matthews range) to Lake
Rudolph; but other roads were also possible during
the rains, particularly one, via Saramba and Marsabit.
Those were the only roads to the north he had ever
heard of.

As to the Rendile, he said that some of the mem-
bers of his village had lived among that tribe, but
that he had never seen them. He thought they lived
somewhere between Saramba and Marsabit. He had
heard that the Rendile were very bad people, particu-

VII TRAVELS [IN EASTERN AFRICA 281

larly of late years; for they had conquered a large
army of Somali (called, by the Wanderobbo and Masai,
“Eljuju”). He, added that the Rendile were always
fighting; that they had many horses; and that he had
heard there was a large tribe living near the Rendile,
but not on good terms with them, called Borana.

The tenor of all his conversation made us await
with impatience the arrival of the men who were to
act as our guides; and when at length they turned
up, fat, sleek, greasy, and gorged with food, our spirits
rose.

The contrast between these men and their wives,
mothers, and offspring was great indeed —the latter
beime mere skeletons. . They brought with them a
large quantity of meat, which their better halves seized
with avidity, and carried off to their huts, where, doubt-
less, it was soon despatched. The men were really
fine-looking fellows; and I was at once struck with
tie fact ‘that their features were entirely different
from those of any other natives of East Africa whom
I had seen. They approached nearer the Somali type
—having regular features, full-rounded chins, and fine,
bold eyes. In colour, they were brown rather than
black. The lobes. of their ears were stretched, after
the Masai fashion. Upon each side of the breast
they bore a crescent-shaped scar, which started at a
point near the shoulder and ended near the lowest rib.

Upon receiving a small present, they sat down and
allowed us to question them; but to our queries they
failed to give answers at all satisfactory. They said
they had originally belonged to the Berkenedji or
Samburu tribe, which had originally possessed the

282 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

country north of the Leikipia plateau, extending as
far as Reschatt. But this tribe, having lost their
herds by sickness and raids of the Masai, had become
scattered. The majority of them, the more fortunate,
such as possessed flocks and herds, settled down with
the Rendile; the remainder joined the Wanderobbo,
and lived by hunting game and honey. They appeared
raost unwilling to tell us anything about the Rendile;
but said that they lived a great distance away, and that
between Lolokwi and their country stretched a water-
less, and hence impassable, desert. We told them we
were bent upon going to the Rendile, and that we
were convinced that some of them knew the road.
They all shook their heads. Their language was Masai.

I then told them I was a great medicine-man, and
in support of my claim I went through the usual farce
of burning a little spirit in a saucer. This appeared
to convince them of my power, and at length one of
them offered in exchange for a present to guide us,
not to the Rendile (for he persisted in saying he did
not know where they lived), but to some other Wande-
robbo, who lived in the neighbourhood of the Rendile,
and would be able to guide us to them. He said that
we should have great difficulty in crossing the desert;
that the Wanderobbo never thought of doing so except
in the rainy season; but if we were prepared for long
marches, he thought that in three days he could take
us to a place called Seran, where we were sure to
find fresh guides.

We gave this man a present, which pleased him
greatly. After receiving it, he told us that his wife
was about to become a mother, and that he should

vil TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 283

be unable to leave her until the interesting event was
past. We satisfied his scruples, however, by provid-
ing her with a few bushels of beans.

On June 25) we set out on our way to the Ren-
diles All the “cattle were forced to bear burdens,
owing to the death of so many of our donkeys; and
all the men who were not bearing loads carried a

:
la

y

Ws

Sd

ORYX BEISA

well-filled water-skin. Our guide told us that we
should certainly reach water that night; but the
appearance of the country was so arid and forbidding,
that it was with forebodings of disappointment that
we set out upon our journey. We started at six in
the morning, and marched steadily until noon, when
I halted to allow the donkeys and cattle, which were
advancing very slowly, to catch up with the caravan.
While thus waiting, two oryx beisa ran past the cara-

284 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

van at full speed, and I was fortunate enough to
bring them down with one shot each from my Win-
chester. They were very welcome, for the men could
cook them without exhausting my little store of water.
We waited over an hour for Lieutenant von Hohnel
to turn up with the cattle and donkeys. He reported
that he had had a rather exciting adventure a few
miles back. While walking slowly along, accompanied
by but a few men, he suddenly found himself sur-
rounded by about 100 savages, with arrows strung in
their bows and pointed at his little party. He at
once fired a shot into the air as a signal to the
advance caravan, but we were too far away to hear it.
He momentarily expected the natives to discharge
their arrows; but finally, when one of the natives
addressed him in fair Swahili, he was greatly relieved.
They proved to be a party of Wakamba (a tribe inhab-
iting the country between the Tana and the coast),
who had been away for several months upon an ivory-
hunting expedition, and were then homeward bound.
At first they seemed inclined to attempt the capture
of the cattle, but a few words from Lieutenant von
Hohnel turned them from this purpose, and they left
him in peace.

The Zanzibari is not at all fit for work in a desert
country. So slight is his self-control, that he is
unable to resist the temptation to drink what water
he may have with him, as soon as he is thirsty.
When they have exhausted their water supply, it is
with the greatest difficulty that they can be induced
to continue the march. We always warned them to
be sparing of their water, and as each man carried a

VII TRAVELS [N EASTERN AFRICA 285

water-bottle containing three litres, it was quite suf-
ficient for one day’s march; but often these thought
less people would drink every drop from their bottles
before they had been marching two hours. On this
occasion but one-half of my men had sufficient intelli-
gence to control their thirst, so the remainder of the
march was unpleasant in the extreme. The porters
shouted to one another with hoarse voices: ‘“ Master
is leading us into the desert!” “Maji hapana hapa!”
(There is no water here!) ‘‘ Takufa yote!” (We shall
all die!)

By six in the evening we reached a high gneiss
hill called Kamanga, where our guide had promised
we should find water; but the hole which once held
the precious liquid was dry. He then wished to turn
back, saying that it was useless to go farther; if there
was no water at Kamanga, there would be no water
elsewhere en route. The moon was almost full; so,
notwithstanding the gloomy view of our guide, we de-
cided to push on during the night. At 9 P.M. we again
set out.

In the cool air of the night my men marched much
better. The moonlight threw weird shadows across
the sandy waste. Occasionally a herd of antelope or
zebra would thunder past us, and from amid some
low clump of mimosa or thorn bush the snort of a
rhinoceros would be sent forth. Once or twice during
the night my guide leaped suddenly from the path;
the action was occasioned by the hiss of some serpent
in the path, which his sharp ears had been able to
note.- Every hour we would halt to allow the caravan
to close up; and at each halt I would learn that another

286 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

donkey had given out. During that day and night
we lost five of these beasts.

Just before sunrise we reached a dry and sandy
river-bed. My men threw their loads to the ground,
and one and all began to dig with. their hands.
Soon shouts of joy were heard, for at a depth of
three feet water was found. This place our guide
called Lokoli. It is distant, in a straight line, twenty-
five miles from the camp we had left; but by the
winding road we were forced to follow we must have
traversed nearly ten more. At this point we rested
one day.

We questioned our guide closely as to the where-
abouts of the Wanderobbo he had promised. He
then said that he was not sure of finding them, but
hoped to. He added that if they were not at Seran,
which we should reach in two days, there would be
nothing to do but return. The closest questioning
ended in the same response: “Seran.” “If we got
to Seran, and there were no Wanderobbo there, we
must come back. From Seran on there is no water;
all is desert.”

“Did he know just where Seran was?”

“Mayolo.” (A Masai word meaning, I don’t know.)

“Did he know any other road in this direction
which was likely to lead either to the Wanderobbo
or the Rendile?”

“ Mayolo.”

From his frequent reiteration of this word we
dubbed him “ Mayolo.”

Leaving Lokoli, six hours’ sharp marching brought
us to a small water-hole called Lendovie. Our guide

VII TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 287

was not certain there was water in it until he
reached it. While on the march, he would stop
every half-hour, and run off first to one side and
then the other, examining every little hollow for signs
of water. Where we found a water-hole, we camped.

Near Lendovie I shot five wart hogs. None of
my men, with the exception of two of the Soudanese,
would eat the flesh of these animals; but the two
Wanderobbo (Mayolo and the one we took from
Daitcho) quarrelled fiercely for what they considered
choice bits of the flesh, and loaded themselves with
nearly forty pounds of it.

The following day we reached Seran. Seran is a
perfect oasis in that arid desert. It consists of about
two acres of land covered with graceful dhum palms,
in the centre of which there is a large spring of cool,
clear, and delicious water. A few hundred yards
away from this group of palms is another, where a
smaller spring is to be found. Under these trees the
turf is soft and green. We felt that we had reached
a veritable Paradise. From Lolokwi to Seran the
country is nearly as thorough a desert as Sahara.
Without a guide a heavily laden caravan would soon
perish from thirst in this dreary waste. At Seran we
found game in plenty, and during the afternoon of
the day of our arrival I killed a female rhinoceros
and two giraffes. The flesh of these animals we cut
into strips, and dried in the sun.

There were no signs of Wanderobbo at Seran, and
our guide again urged us to turn back, insisting that
he knew no more of the country lying beyond. We
asked him what had become of the Wanderobbo he

288 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

had expected to find at Seran: and he replied that
they had probably gone to the Guaso Nyiro. It was
useless to think of going in search of them; one
might as well look for a needle in a_ haystack.
Moreover, our caravan was then unable to proceed
without throwing away many loads; for we had but
ten donkeys out of the thirty-seven with which we
started from Daitcho. What ailed these animals we
could not conclude; unless it was that in some way
they had become infected with the disease which car-
ried off our donkeys at Hameye. Our Masai inter-
preters told us that they had often taken donkeys
from the coast on journeys lasting two years, and
brought them back, although used constantly for the
two years. They said there were times when a
plague seemed to destroy them; but that that seemed
to occur at intervals of four or five years. Evidently
we had had the misfortune to undertake our journey
in a bad year.

With Mayolo I climbed one of the dhum palms at
Seran, and asked him the names of the small hills we
could see from that slight elevation. He persisted in
asserting his ignorance of the country, but thought-
lessly admitted that he knew the name of one hill
lying nearly twenty miles to the eastward, which he
said was sometimes inhabited by Wanderobbo. From
what I saw while up the tree I promptly concluded
to set out for this hill.

Both Lieutenant von Hédhnel and I had decided
that we should not turn back, no matter how great
the difficulties which beset our path, before we
reached the Rendile. I decided to take with me

VII TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 289

twenty-five men, laden for the most part with water,
and make use of the full moon by night marches.
The following day I spent in sleep, as I decided to
set out at moonrise.

At eight o'clock the moon had risen sufficiently
above the horizon to afford good light; so I started
at that hour, taking with me Karscho, the two Wan-
derobbo guides, and twenty-three men. We marched
steadily until two in the morning, when Mayolo said
he was unable to march at night, and that he was
sure we had strayed from the proper direction. I
climbed a small hill and looked about, but could see
no sign of any living thing; all about me the silent
desert gleamed white in the moonlight. Occasionally
the quiet was broken by the dismal howl of a hyena,
or the angry snort of feeding rhinoceroses. My men
were fresh; but being uncertain of the direction, I
decided to await dawn; so we threw ourselves down
upon the soft sand in the bed of a dried watercourse,
and waited for sunrise. Ere the sun was above the
horizon, we again set out upon our way. The desert
was almost level, but here and there it was broken by
the depression of some watercourse then dry, or a
small hill of reddish rock gleaming with mica.

At eight o'clock we, crossed one of these dried
watercourses, and there in the soft sand I saw fresh
tracks. A shout soon brought my men to me. I
counted the footprints of twenty-five men, and the
tracks of five or six camels. I turned to Mayolo:
“Who are these people? — Rendile?” He shook his
head, saying, “ Dthombon.”

“What are dthombon, Mayolo?”

U

290 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

“My people,” he exclaimed excitedly; “Samburu,
Berkenedji.”. (Two names for the same people.)

“But I thought your people were poor, and had
no camels.”

“Yes; that is true. Being poor, and not possessed
of any flocks, many of my people hover about the out-
skirts of the Rendile camp, and support life by plun-
dering from the Rendile either camels, sheep, goats,
or cattle. That is why they are called ‘dthombon,’
which means in the Rendile language, ‘ robbers.’ ”

The presence of these tracks convinced me that the
Rendile could not be far away. ‘The tracks were made
that morning just before sunrise, and if these dthom-
bon had travelled three or four days from the Rendile,
they would have rested, and feasted upon the camels
they had captured. But they were up with the dawn,
and pushing quickly onward; which argued that they
had just captured the camels, and that the Renduile
were certainly near at hand. This was a joyful thought.
I at once despatched two men back to Seran with a
note for Lieutenant von Hohnel, informing him of
our discovery, and telling him to make the caravan
ready to march in our direction, as soon as I should
have ascertained the whereabouts of the Rendile and
sent him word.

The effect of the sight of these camel tracks upon
the different members of my small force was not the
same. The two Somali I had taken with me (Karscho
and Achmet Dualla) jabbered with excitement, and
endeavoured to urge me to turn aside, go after the
dthombon, and capture the camels. ‘God has deliv-
ered them into our hands,” they said. “The Rendile

VII TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 291

may be days away. Let us capture these five camels;
our donkeys are dying, and the camels will be able
to carry many loads.” On the other hand, the Zan-
zibari seemed stunned with the fact that they were
in the neighbourhood of people who possessed camels.
Who could these people be but Somali? and Somali
they dreaded as they did the devil himself. At once
their faces assumed a dull, listless expression — among
these people signifying fear and apprehension ; and when
I gave the word to push on, they took their loads up in
a half-hearted manner, and followed with halting gait.

i
past

y ASS
oS
iN

DEAD RHINOCEROS

On we pressed, I with my field-glasses ever to my
eyes, scanning the horizon for some sign of habita-
tions or man. But one thought filled my mind,—to
meach the Rendile as soon as possible. 1 at first
thought to take the back-track of the dthombon and
their plunder; but it occurred to me that they would
naturally have pursued a trail over ground where
their footprints would leave but slight trace; and
even if the trail proved good, I should in all proba-
bility fall in with bands of pursuing Rendile excited
by their loss, and little apt to treat us in a friendly

292 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

manner. No; we must push on in the same direction
we had been pursuing, keeping a sharp lookout for
them. .

About ten o’clock, just as we reached the top of
a slight rise in the surface of the desert, Mayolo
stretched his hand before him, pointed to a slope
nearly two miles away, and shouted, “ Ndamess” (Cam-
els). I gazed carefully in the direction indicated, and
saw nothing which appeared to me like camels; but
I could see what appeared to me to be hundreds
of small huts, covering the desert as far as the eye
could see. But whether huts or camels, it made little
difference. People must be there, and those people
must be the Rendile. We pushed on, and by eleven
o'clock had reached a dried watercourse covered with
dhum palms. A little digging with the hands, and
water was found.

There I left most of my men, and taking with me
the two Wanderobbo, Karscho, and the Masai inter-
preter, pushed on, momentarily expecting to fall in
with the natives. Soon we reached a long, low hill.
What little verdure had once grown upon it had been
eaten off; the ground was marked with countless
camel tracks, and we saw the footprints of men. We
almost broke into a run with excitement, and soon
came to another dried watercourse shrouded in palms.
We had hardly entered upon its bed, when we saw
before us a sight which gladdened our eyes, but at
the same time made us apprehensively place ourselves
in a posture of defence. Not 200 yards away, on the
bed of the stream, there was a gathering of natives,
300 or 400 in number, armed with spears, bows, and

vil TRAVELS [N EASTERN AFRICA 293

arrows. Behind them was a countless herd of camels,
their tawny hides forming a distinct background to
the picture presented by the crowd of dark-skinned
natives.

At first our appearance struck the natives dumb with
astonishment, but the silence soon gave way to an ever-
growing shout. Arrows were strung in bows, spears
were clutched tightly, and, after a moment's hesitation,
they advanced, at first slowly, and later at a quick run,
We dropped upon our knees in the bed of the stream,
and placed our rifles to our shoulders. I turned to
the Masai interpreter, and said: “Send forward Mayolo
and the other Wanderobbo, to assure these people we
come in peace.” Instinctively Mayolo understood the
command, and with a nod, he threw his bow to the
ground, and ran forward, shouting: “Serian! Serian!”
Peace! . Peace), The savages halted, and -eyed us
fiercely for a moment. Mayolo turned to me and said,
“Njo gumbao” (Give me tobacco). I handed him my
pouch, and with that in his hand he again ran forward,
greeted the natives in a friendly manner, and distrib-
uted a pinch here and a pinch there. Many of them
seemed to know Mayolo, but they did not appear to
be filled with pleasure at seeing him again; neverthe-
less, he at length persuaded six or eight of the warriors
to come to us and talk.

By this time my face and arms were so tanned by
exposure to the sun that I resembled a negro more
than a white man; so my appearance did not seem to
excite much curiosity in the minds of these people.
They pointed to my trousers, however, and asked May-
olo if we were Borana; thus indicating that the Borana

294 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP,

wear trousers of some sort. He said, no; that we were
lashomba (traders). At that word the faces of the na-
tives assumed a more pleasant expression; they turned
to their following, and shouted some words to them,
which Mayolo translated as instructions to the people
to drive the camels to the villages, and inform their
chiefs that strangers had come to visit them. All the
time my eyes were busy in carefully noting the peculi-
arities of the natives before us.

They were a tall, thin race, reddish brown in colour,
with soft, straight, and closely cropped hair, features
almost Caucasian in their regularity, and fierce blue
eyes. They were clad in well-tanned robes of goat
or sheep skin, which they threw gracefully over their
shoulders. They were armed with short spears, or
well-made bows of a shape very different from those
I had heretofore seen in East Africa, the ends being
curved outward, as in the Asiatic bow, and their arrows
were not tipped with poison. The language they used
while speaking with one another was different from
any I had yet heard; but in addressing Mayolo they
one and all spoke the Masai tongue.

My Somali were fascinated with the sight, and whis-
pered to me:-“ These are like our people; they must
be Mohammedans. Is it not written, that none but the
followers of Mohammed shall possess camels?” Ma-
yolo’s face beamed with pleasure, and he continued
repeating: ‘“‘Rendile! Rendile! I ama good man. I
have taken the European to the Rendile; he will now
let me depart in peace, with a large present.”

After a short parley, I persuaded three or four of
the warriors to accompany me to the spot where I had

vil TRAVELS IM EASTERN AFRICA 295

lett my men. Before leaying these men, I had: in-
structed them to make a camp; and when I arrived
at the place, I found they had thrown up a small thorn
zeriba about thirty feet in diameter near the bed of the
dried watercourse. I presented the natives with some
beads, and told them that this was but a small portion
of my caravan, that the rest would join me in two or
three days, and that meanwhile I would like them to
take my greetings to their chiefs, and ask them to see
me on the morrow. Their one cry was, “Gumbao”
(Tobacco). Luckily we had taken with us several
loads of this when leaving Daitcho; so we were able to
satisfy their craving. They soon left, with assurances
that some of their chiefs would come on the morrow.

It was then imperative that Lieutenant von Héhnel
and the rest of the caravan should join me as promptly
as possible, but I knew he would find it difficult in
bringing all the loads to this point; so I decided to
retain but four of the men, and send the rest back to
him to assist in the transport of the loads. Mayolo
pressed me to allow him to return. He said it was
madness to remain where we were with but four or five
people; that the Rendile were bad and treacherous;
that he had lived among them for years, and that he
knew they would murder us, if we remained where we
were. I told him, however, that I was a great medicine-
man, and that the Rendile would not dare to touch
me; but, fearing lest he should escape, I took pains to
tiemnuml wp! m) ithe camp: As the moon was full, |
knew the men would reach Seran next morning; and
I hoped that, before the following day had elapsed, we
should once more be together.

296 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

The next morning Baraka, my tent-boy, called me,
and said the chiefs of the Rendile were waiting to
receive me. I threw a white sheet over my pajamas,
and, slipping my feet into my sandals, told Baraka to
bring along my camp-chair. Together we went out
to join the chiefs. I found a party of thirty old men
seated in the sand of the river-bed; behind them
lounged 100 warriors, armed exclusively with spears.
I took my seat, and spent a few moments in making a
leisurely survey of the people whom I had come so far
to see, and from whom I expected so much. The Masai
interpreter, Hassan, pointed out the three principal
chiefs, Lokomogul, Lyserege, and Lomoro. They were
seated a little in advance of the other old men, and
one and all were clad in rough woollen cloth, similar
to that worn by the Galla we had seen near Hameye,
on the Tana.

The eldest of the three was Lokomogul. He was
of large frame, rather stout, and about eighty years of
age. His hair was snowy white, as was also his short
and well-trimmed beard. His complexion was light-
brown, and his blue eyes appeared mild and intelligent.
His head was splendidly shaped. Around his forehead
he wore a band consisting of several folds of white
cloth.

Lomoro’s features were much more prominent. His
nose was quite Roman, his face clean-shaven, and but
for his colour he resembled a sturdy American farmer.
He wore a positively quizzical expression. His thin
lips were tightly pressed together, but turned up at
the corners, and seemingly ready to part in a pleasant
smile.

VII TRAVELS [N EASTERN AFRICA 207

Lyserege was the youngest of the three — perhaps
not more than thirty-six years of age, well developed
physically, and possessing the same regular features as
the others; but his eyes were fiercer in expression, and
his lips gave the impression of cruelty and sensuality.
His name in the language of the Masai means “ Blood,”
and he looked as if he would be unhappy unless wading
through it.

The survey concluded, I opened conversation by
waving my hand, and saying, “Serian.” The three
chiefs replied, as with one voice, “Serian.” My knowl-
edge of the Masai language was unfortunately so
limited that I was unable to converse directly with
the chiefs, and was forced to depend entirely upon
Hassan, my Masai interpreter, to reveal my thoughts
to the Rendile, and explain to me their desires. Has-
san was the most willing creature in the world; but,
although he understood my Swahili perfectly, his stupid
mind was unable to grasp any but the simplest ideas;
so that he was almost more hindrance than assistance
as a means of intercommunication.

I asked them if they were, indeed, Rendile. They
nodded. They asked my tribe, and seemed incredulous
when told that I had come from a great distance, and
across vast seas to see them. They had never heard
of Europeans, but said that Somali traders from Barawa
had visited them, and told them of the sea.

The country of the Barawa tribe is on the coast, a
short distance north of Kismayu.

I pulled up the sleeve of my shirt, and exhibited my
untanned arm. They were much surprised at the sight,
and seemed to believe Hassan when he told them I

298 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

was a great laibon (medicine-man). They asked eagerly
about the countries through which we had passed, and
seemed relieved when I told them all was peace. Again
and again, they made me repeat that assurance, and tell
them that I had seen no signs of the Masai, of whom
they seemed in great dread. I told them that I had
come to them for the purpose of trade, that in a few
days my caravan, laden with all sorts of good things,
would reach me, and that I hoped to exchange some
of my goods for camels, horses, and donkeys. They
said they would willingly trade with me, and asked if
I had cloth.

One circumstance struck them as very peculiar, and
that was that we dared to travel in the night. They
said they were brave people, and were one and all
warriors; but that they never for a moment dared to
venture from their camp after dark. They said I
must indeed be a great medicine-man, if willing to
venture upon the road at night, and run the risk of
being killed by a rhinoceros, or eaten by lions.

They asked for a present, and I told them they
should receive one upon the arrival of my caravan.
They said they wished to make me a present, and
asked what I wanted. I replied that the European
judged of his friends by the size of their gifts, and
hoped they would bring me horses, camels, and don-
keys. They acquiesced. Then the conversation lan-
guished, and the chiefs, apparently overcome by their
exertions, yawned in my face several times; so I bade
them farewell, shook hands, and expressed the hope
that I should see them on the morrow.

The following morning Lieutenant von Hohneli

vil TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 299

turned up with all the men; and we all at once set
to work building a strong zeriba. Only a few Ren-
dile visited us during the day, and they were princi-
pally young men. They seemed as friendly as possible,
and said they wanted to trade. They brought some
curious wicker jars, and several gallons of camel’s milk.
This had a very smoky taste, but was not unpalatable.

The Rendile possess but few ornaments. The
chiefs wore upon the upper arm rudely carved ivory
armlets, and Lokomogul had a large porcelain bead,
as large as a pigeon’s egg, strung from his neck.
The young men wore about their necks rings of wire,
and upon the first joint of the thumb several rings
of the same material. Each of these rings, they said,
signified a man slain in battle. The warriors rarely
carried shields; a few, however, had them. These were
curious in shape, and utterly unlike those carried by
the Masai. Some were made of woven twigs; others
of oryx hide. They were not more than three feet
high, and eighteen inches wide at both top and _bot-
tom. In the centre they were much narrower; and
on the rear at the centre there was a small loop of
hide, which was grasped by the hand.

Nearly all the warriors painted their faces with a
white clay, which lent ferocity to their appearance.
They all wore their hair cut short, and I was much
struck by the fact that it appeared perfectly straight
and of fine texture.

During the conversation which I had had with the
Rendile chiefs on the previous day, I had told them
of the camel tracks we had seen in the desert; and
they at once sent forty warriors in the direction indi-

300 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP. VII

cated to recover them. Shortly after we finished build-
ing our zeriba, we heard wild shouts, and at once I
called my men to arms. The shouts drew nearer,
and presently we saw a band of forty Rendile war-
riors leading five camels which they had tied together.
These they had recovered after a bloodless battle with
the dthombon. Upon nearing our camp, they left the
camels in the shade of the trees, the leader of the
war party drew his men into line, and they indulged
in a war dance. He then gave them a long address;
but as he harangued them in the Rendile tongue, we
were unable to understand it. However, our Somali
said that many of the words used were of their lan-
guage; so we were able to gather the general import
of the address. He began his address by shouting
“Oromo” several times. I heard this word with inter-
est, for it is a word in use among all the Galla to
describe their race. The Galla invariably call them-
selves Oromo. The word “galla” in their language,
as well as in that of the Somali, means camel. As the
Galla at one time possessed many camels, the Somali
gave them that name.

After shouting the word “ Oromo” several times in
a sing-song fashion, they proceeded to recount the
deeds of daring they had performed in the rescue of
the five camels. The scene was apparently for our
benefit, and in order to impress us with the warlike
disposition of the Rendile. When the speech was
concluded, the warriors broke ranks, ran forward, and
eagerly shook hands with my men, using the word
“Nageyr” as a sign of welcome: this is a Galla word

of greeting.

SAN

=f4.s

AY \\\
AW ays
AA EE
vw
x Bx
we

. = SS
Ses, = A
3 .== = = ¢ AN
- SS \ SS \
=

yy ;
Yy v Or Z

Mei? PY MC) /
E= oo z

Mahomet Aman

Karscho

UNLOADING OF CAMELS

CHAP. VII TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 303

We were much puzzled to. determine the race of
the Rendile. According to my Somali, their language
was somewhat akin to Somali; but they also used
many Galla words. In colour they were lighter than
most Somali, and_ then,
how could we account for
the blue eyes?

mul vor the men” were
mutilated in an extraordi-
nary manner — their navels
had been cut out, leaving |
a small round hole. All
Rendile have this marking ;
and with but one exception,
so far as I know, it is con-
fined to that tribe. This
exception is the people who
inhabit the country lying
to the north of Lake Ste-
phanie, called Marlé. The
Marlé are very probably an
offshoot of the Rendile,
who became tired of wan-
dering, and so settled down.
With the Rendile we found several people who said
they were Marlé. They appeared in every way similar
to the Rendile, but said that some of their customs
differed; for example, they eschewed all flesh but that
of sheep. We repeatedly asked them if they were not
in some way related to the Somali; but the idea seemed
to anger them. They shook their heads vigorously,
and said: “The Somali are: our enemies.”

KARSCHO

304 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

“Then are you not related to the Galla, Arussi
Galla, or the Borana?” (the latter a tribe supposed
to live in the neighbourhood of the Juba River).

“No; we are not in any way kith or kin of those
people. Formerly we had trading relations with them;
but for many years past we have been at war.”

“Who are you, then?”

“Weare Rendile; ‘there’ .are. rie people. lnke- “us:
We are the great Rendile tribe.”

Despite many further questions designed to ascer-
tain something further in connection with their his-
tory, this was all we were ever able to elicit from
them.

The following day we received another visit from
the three chiefs. Instead of the horses, camels, and
donkeys I had expected them to bring as gifts, they
satisfied themselves with presenting us two very large
fat-tailed sheep. In anticipation of a much larger gift,
we had laid out what was in truth a magnificent pres-
ent for the chiefs; and despite our disappointment,
and the meagreness and lack of generosity they had
shown, we decided to present it as originally planned.
We gave them each a red flannel blanket, several
shawls, knives, coils of wire, and many pounds of
bright-coloured beads, besides several yards of the
heaviest American drill, called on the east coast of
Africa “marduf.” They examined it closely, and said
that many years before a band of traders from Barawa
had brought them some just like it.

After they had received their gifts, they said that
trade would begin on the morrow; but that we must
first make blood-brothers with them, and after that

VII TRAVELS IM EASTERN AFRICA 305

they would prefer us to move our camp, as the place
was too distant for such august personages as them-
selves to have to walk.

They went away, and in the afternoon returned to
make blood-brotherhood. They told us there were
two methods of performing this ceremony: one by
means of a stone, and the other neces-
sitating the painting of our faces many go Uy
colours. Naturally we preferred the :
stone rites.. The three chiefs on this
occasion were attended by about 400
warriors; so I arranged my little band

WAN A] 5 Wk

17, | i

fy ay Ny
Wy

in as formidable array as possible, and
fired two volleys. The noise seemed to
have an irritating effect upon the sav-
ages’, they. at once: rose to theif feet,
shouted, and shook their fists. We
soon calmed them, however, and_pro-
ceeded to business.

Lokomogul, on behalf of his |
people, and I, on behalf of my i iil
own, each seized in our right f’
hands a round stone. Upon the
stones we liberally expectorated.
Fach then passed his stone to his following, who did

MAHOMET AMAN

likewise. We then exchanged stones; and each, hold-
ing the stone in his right hand, with his left dug a
small hole in the soil, meanwhile uttering words of
supposed magic import. In these holes we finally
placed the stones, and covered them with sand. We
then grasped hands, and assured each other that we

were the best friends possible. After this . 1. took
x

306 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

forty of my men, and accompanied the chiefs to the
place where they wished us to make a camp. It was
two miles farther along the bed of the stream in
which our first camp was pitched; in a few hours my
forty men had built there a strong zeriba.

On our way to the new zeriba we were approached
by a band of too Samburu, or Berkenedji. They ex-
actly resembled Masai warriors, wore their hair in the
same style of tonsure, and were armed in identical
manner. They were very anxious to exchange don-
keys for our cattle. They had lain in wait for us on
the road; for, as they said, when once we had reached
our new camp, they would be kept away by the Ren-
dile, and not allowed to exchange with us. As we
hoped to exchange our cattle for camels and _ horses,
we refused to trade with them.

Shortly after we reached our new camp, and _ estab-
lished ourselves therein, the three chiefs, accompanied
by from 600 to 800 warriors, appeared. They all
wished to enter our zeriba at once. This we
gently but firmly refused to permit. We _ provided
boxes for the three chiefs, and they sat down. After
the exchange of small gifts (they gave milk, and we
gave tobacco), they said they were then ready to be-
gin trade, and asked what we wished to buy. We
said, camels. Lokomogul shouted to his men, and an
old camel, apparently suffering from a number of
diseases, was led to the edge of the zeriba. Loko-
mogul in a long speech extolled the merits of this
animal, and, among other things, said it was the best
camel they had. We told him that as he valued
this animal so highly, we thought it a pity to deprive

VII TRAVELS [IN EASTERN AFRICA 307

him of it;- that, in fact, we preferred younger and
stronger animals, even though lacking in the histori-
cal interest attached to this one. Lokomogul eyed
us sharply, exchanged glances with his two fellow-
chiefs, and said: “If you wish to buy any camels,
you must buy this one first.”

It then dawned upon Lieutenant von Hdédhnel and
me that we had formed too high hopes of the Ren-
dile, and that the matter of trade with them was
likely to be productive of difficulty and perhaps strife.

We having refused to purchase that camel, Loko-
mogul refused to take any further part in the pro-
ceedings. Lomoro, however, said he had two young
camels, the flower of his flock; but that he did not
wish to bring them near our zeriba, and for some
reason or other had left them a few hundred yards
away. We went out to see them; and my Somali
burst into laughter at sight of them, and said they
were undersized runts, and unable to bear burdens.
They ‘were about the ‘size of a horse. We again
shook our heads. Lomoro shook his head, stamped
his feet, and asked what sort of people we were; it
seemed impossible to please us. We asked if such
were the only camels they had to sell. They re-
plied: “Yes; the Rendile: do not sell their, camels.”

After further conversation, they said they were
neady to begin trade’ in. donkeys... The price they
asked was ridiculous; they wished sixty yards of
heavy American sheeting for each animal. They
measured cloth in the same manner as all other peo-
ple in East Africa; that 1s; from the elbows to the
tips of the fingers—and a dwarf is never selected as

308 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

a measuring-stick. Eight such measurements usually
make about four yards. It was needless to explain
to them that we considered this price perfectly ludi-
erous. On the coast a donkey can be purchased for
ten doty (forty yards) of drill, where drill was easily
procured, and where the owner of the donkey had
been to the expense of bringing his beast. Among
the entire tribe of these savages there was perhaps
not twenty yards of cloth; yet they wished us to give
them half as much again as was asked at the coast.

We then refused to trade. In order to impress
them we produced the red blankets, thinking we
should thereby excite their cupidity. We also spread
out before them some Scotch plaid shawls. The ap-
pearance of the latter they greeted with derisive
shouts, and Lomoro took one of them in his hand,
waved it above his head, and attracted to it the at-
tention of the assembled warriors outside the zeriba.
It seemed to madden them as a red rag does a bull.
After some questioning, we learned that the Rendile
loathed any colour but white—a most curious in-
stance! for all negroes are notoriously fond of bright
colours.

We had spent more than an hour in fruitless en-
deavour to arrive at some sort of trade with these people.
Each moment the assembled warriors outside our camp
grew more impatient; and soon the air rang with
savage shouts. I thought they were about to attack
us; and so I quietly went about among my men, and
told them to load their rities, and place two extra
cartridges in their hands. The shouts grew louder
and louder; when suddenly the Somali came to us,

vil TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 309

and said they could understand sufficient of what the
Rendile were saying, to gather that they were preparing
to fall upon us.

Both Lieutenant von Hoéhnel and I had been so much
irritated by the unreasonable behaviour of these people,
that we would have almost welcomed a struggle, as a
relief to our feelings. It flashed across my mind that
we should never be in a better position to attack them
than at that time. We were in a strong zeriba, water
near at hand, and plentiful food and ammunition sup-
plies. Seated in front of us were, as far as we could
learn, the three greatest chiefs of the Rendile, entirely
at our mercy. We did not wish to begin a struggle;
but if one arrow had flown, or a spear been cast through
the zeriba, we should at once have entered into the
spirit which prompted the action. Three well-directed
volleys fired through the thorns of our zeriba would
have laid many of the warriors low, and dispersed the
remainder; then we could have retained the three chiefs
as hostages, and forced the Rendile to trade on satis-
factory terms.

The shouting continued. ‘The three chiefs sat quiet,
and eyed us narrowly, doubtless seeking for some in-
dication of fear. At length I told them that we had
made blood-brothers with the Rendile, and in conse-
quence we were loath to treat them in any but the
most friendly manner; but that in our country we were
not accustomed to such shouts and cries as then filled
the air, and we were compelled to construe them as
signs of hostility; also, that unless quiet was at once
restored, the Rendile would discover in short order
what manner of men we were.

310 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

At these words, the chiefs exchanged glances; then
arose to their feet, and commanded their followers to
be still. In a moment silence reigned, as perfect as
the bedlam of the previous moment. The chiefs then
again seated themselves, and Lomoro asked us why,
if we had come to them for the purpose of trade, we
did not trade with them; they were quite willing, and
in fact anxious, to sell us what we desired, but we
seemed obstinate and ill-disposed toward them.

Throughout the entire transaction Lomoro exhibited
the most intelligence and diplomacy. Lokomogul,
although he seemed to possess great influence over
the people, did not show nearly the same degree of
attention; and Lyserege, his cupidity aroused by the
sight of our trading-goods, had from the first desired
to possess them by force. I took Lomoro to my tent,
and with Hassan, the interpreter, endeavoured to have
a quiet and reasonable talk with him. I asked him if
he had previously had dealings with Arab and Zanzibari
caravans. He said: Yes; on one occasion a caravan
came to them and behaved badly; and so they fell
upon it, destroyed the men, and took their goods. And
he added that on three or four occasions they had
been visited by small bodies of traders, principally
Barawa, who had brought with them some marduf. I
asked him whether or not he really wished to trade
with us. He replied that for his part he would be
only too happy to do so; but that he found great diffi-
culty in restraining his young men from attacking us.
He suggested that we should distribute a large present
among the warriors. This I naturally declined to do.
He then asked for another present for himself and the

Vil TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 311

two other chiefs. I refused this also. He then said:
“Well, I leave you to your fate,” and turning on his
heel, stalked out of the tent and the zeriba. He was
shortly followed by Lokomogul and Lyserege.

After the chiefs left, we were able to purchase ten

donkeys by giving extraordinary prices in cloth and
beads for them; still, the price was less than was first
asked. To acquire these ten donkeys required more

SCENE IN CAMP

than half the trading-goods which we had considered
sufficient to purchase fifty or seventy-five camels.

The following day the chiefs did not visit us, and
but few of the natives appeared. We asked to be
taken to their villages, but they refused, saying that
strangers were never permitted to visit the villages
of the Rendile. . During the afternoon, one of the
natives appeared, mounted upon a horse. The horse
looked for all the world like one of our western
ponies. I examined the bit and saddle with great
curiosity. The former was rudely fashioned of iron,

312 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

and was very severe; it resembled a Spanish bit.
The saddle was made of hght wood covered with soft
folds of sheepskin; so that it was comfortable. It was
attached to the horse by means of a cinch girth run
through rings and knotted. ‘The stirrups consisted of
rings just large enough to admit the great toe. The
saddle was held in place by a breastplate and breech-
ing, as well as by the girth. The reins consisted of
bits of untanned hide. The horseman was armed with
a spear quite ten feet in length.

I was told that the Rendile possessed about 500
horses. These they had purchased from the Barawa,
whose tribe was said to be possessed of thousands
of horses, which they used in battle and also for
the purpose of hunting giraffe and antelope, which
are the only game eaten by the Rendile.

During our stay in the neighbourhood of these
people I saw but one woman. She was clad as fol-
lows. About her hips there depended a short kilt,
consisting of what resembled rope-ends, and from her
shoulders fell a voluminous cloak of well-tanned sheep-
skin. The Rendile tanned their hides very success-
fully, and one of these bore a remarkable resemblance
to peau de suede. Vhe woman’s hair was most care-
fully arranged. It was gathered on the top of her
head in the shape of a crest of an ancient Greek
helmet, and was held in this position by means of
pins and grease.

In the afternoon we were able to gather an idea of
the numbers of the Rendile flocks and herds. Just
before sundown a herd of camels passed our camp,
and we counted 4ooo. These were said to belong to

VIL TRAVELS INV EASTERN AFRICA 313

a single village, and that not the richest of the Ren-
dile villages. There were said to be twenty villages;
so that one might say the Rendile possessed, in round
numbers, 80,000 camels. In former days they had
possessed many cattle, but these had been very much
reduced in number by plagues, so that their herds, at
the time of our visit, consisted of but 1ooo. Of don-
keys, they were said to possess thousands upon thou-
sands, and it was reported that their flocks of sheep
and goats were countless.

From conversations with these people, we gathered
that there must be 20,000 Rendile, not counting the
many thousand Samburu and Berkenedji living with
them. It was-said that when the Rendile were
camped in one lone line; it~took six hours’ hard
marching to pass from one end of the line to the
other.

Their huts were said to be made of camel saddles
similar to those used by the Somali. They had been
encamped two months at Kome, where we found them;
but, as the pasturage was now nearly exhausted, they
were on the point of moving. They said they wan-
dered from Marlé, to the north of Lake Stephanie, as
far south as the northern extremity of the Leikipia
plateau. In former years they had encamped near
Marsabit and the northern end of the General Mat-
thews range; but five years previously they had _ suf-
fered defeat at the hands of the Turcana, who robbed
them of thousands of camels, and killed many of their
tribe. Many years ago they inhabited the plain to the
south of Lorian called Kirrimar; but owing to the re-
peated raids of the Somali from Kismayu and the

314 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

neighbouring towns on the coast, they had left it.
They said that within the preceding year they had
been attacked by a body of Somali, some hundreds
of whom were armed with rifles; they had beaten
them off, however, with great loss. They expressed
hearty contempt for the rifles used by the Somali;
which must have been muzzle-loaders charged with a
poor quality of powder, and most probably with too
small a charge. The Rendile said their shields were
sufficient to turn the bullets. They had heard of our
victory over the Wamsara, and expressed great sur-
prise thereat; for they reckoned the Wamsara to be
as formidable as the Masai, and the latter, in the old
days, had always been able to rout the Somali in
battle.

The chief medicine-man of the tribe was called
Lesegetetti; he was not a native of the Rendile, but a
Masai. His sway dated from the defeat of the Ren-
dile at the hands of the Turcana. Up to that time
their chief medicine-man was a Rendile, named Lao-
goum; but as his magic had been unable to ward off
the attacks of the Turcana, his influence since that
day had waned, and Lesegetetti was considered the
most powerful medicine-man of the tribe.

We waited at Kome another day, hoping there
would be more trade; but few natives came to us, and
they only to beg tobacco. One was an_ intelligent
young fellow, and by means of presents we got him
to sit down and tell us all he knew about his people
and their customs. All our questions were answered
with satisfactory readiness; but as we never entered
into intimate relations with the Rendile, I am unable

VII TRAVELS [NV EASTERN AFRICA 315

to vouch for the truth of the following items of his
conversation; and in fact, from my knowledge of
negro character, I would suggest that they be received
with more or less caution.

The Rendile believe that God first made two peo-
ple (Rendile), a man and a woman, and two camels;
and that from these pairs sprang the race of the Ren-
dile and their camel herds. The original home of the
Rendile was Naudo (meaning, in the Masai tongue,

b)

“a high place”), situated somewhere in the neighbour-
hood of Lysamis; that is, the country lying between
the General Matthews- range and Lake Rudolph,
which from time immemorial has been inhabited by
the Rendile.

All males are circumcised in the ordinary Arab
fashion, and their navels are cut away entirely, leaving
a small round hole. This cutting away of the navel
is done when the child is about three years of age;
while circumcision is delayed until the age of puberty.
When the males get their second set of teeth, the
two lower front teeth are cut out. Only one other
East African tribe is said to practise the same muti-
lations; these are the Marlé, living to the north of
Lake Stephanie, in all probability a kindred race.

Polygamy is in vogue, the number of wives being
limited only by the man’s ability to support them.
The marriage ceremony is wholly a matter of busi-
ness; but, according to my informant, is a more or
less complicated affair, requiring time for its comple-
tion. When a young woman finds favour in the eyes
of a young man, he must first pay court to her father,
and ingratiate himself by a present of seven female

316 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

goats and three camels. If the father accepts the
gift, the deal goes on; if he refuses, the business is
at an end. If the present is accepted, the girl’s two
lower front teeth are cut out, and the business is con-
cluded by the father of the bride receiving ten addi-
tional camels from the family of the young man.

The funeral ceremony is as follows. The corpse is
shaved, and then buried in a deep hole in a sitting
posture; the hole is then filled with stones, which are
piled several feet above the ground into a sort of
cairn; afterward a spear is fixed in an upright position
in the centre. This completed, the near relatives of
the deceased kill a camel, and invite their friends to
a feast. The whole village goes into mourning, and
during the period of mourning they either take off
their ornaments or hide them with skins.

Only male relatives of the deceased share in the
distribution of his herds. At the end of one month
the heir of the dead man ingratiates himself with his
immediate relatives by presenting them with goats,
sheep, or cameis, as the case may be, and as his
means may warrant.

Primogeniture is in vogue, but it is customary for
the younger brothers of the heir to receive substan-
tial presents. The heir assumes the care of his
mother and sisters. In return for the care he bestows
upon his sisters, all goods paid for them upon mar-
riage go to him.

The Samburu, or Berkenedji, were originally deadly
enemies of the Rendile; but since their defeat at
Leikipia by the Masai many years ago, and the sub-
sequent destruction of their flocks by the plague, they

VII TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 317

had been forced into semi-serfdom to the Rendile —
watching their flocks, and performing other menial
services for them. In return for this they were pro-
tected in their persons and_ possessions. These
people in no way changed their customs after join-
ing the Rendile, and their customs are distinctly dif-
ferent from those of the Rendile. For example, they
do not bury the dead, but throw them out to the
hyenas; and they scorn the use of a bow and arrow
until old age has deprived them of sufficient strength
to use a spear.

Among the Rendile adultery is not punished; but
in the case of unmarried girls unchastity meets with
severe retribution, for the sole and simple reason that
the market value of the girl to her parents has been
decreased. A slip from the path of chastity by a
young girl invariably results in her being driven out
from her home; and she is-either forced to join the
Samburu, or Berkenedji, or the Wanderobbo, or she
is sold as a slave.

Murder is punished by confiscation of property; and
the relatives of the murdered man are at liberty to
revenge themselves upon the person of the murderer.

Theft is punished by a fine three times the value of
the stolen goods.

All questions of this kind are adjudicated by the
older men of the village in which the offence was
committed.

The chief food of the Rendile is milk, meat, blood,
and dhum-palm fruit. Upon slaying an animal, the
blood is at once drunk by the males, who think it
makes them not only brave and courageous, but

318 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

healthy. I fancy they do it for the sake of the salt
in the blood. Giraffe and antelope are hunted on
horseback, and are the only game eaten.

Their shields are made of the hides of animals, or
of wicker work. The iron work on their spears,
knives, etc., is done for the most part by the smiths
in their villages; but they prefer to purchase these
articles from the neighbouring tribes, as the work of
their own smiths is not of the best.

Over each village a chief presides in the councils
of peace as well as of war. His office is elective, not
hereditary. A man of wealth and position is rarely
elected to the office of chief. Popularity, gift of lan-
guage, and skill in war are the three prime requisites;
but after a man has once been made chief he soon
becomes rich; for he levies a tax upon the flocks and
herds of his village, until his property at least equals
that of any other member of the small community.

The number of strings of beads around a man’s
neck indicates the number of men he has slain in
battle. The chief of the village gives the warrior a
goat and a quantity of milk for each slain enemy.

My informant also told me that for the preceding
five or six years the relations of the Rendile and the
Borana had been strained. The Rendile appeared
greatly to dread the Borana, who in their opinion were
the most powerful tribe in their neighbourhood.

The Borana people are said to be separated into
two divisions, the larger of which is called Rrapp.
The Rrapp, despite the recent plague, still had a great
number of cattle. They were reigned over by a chief
named Kalo, and have many horses; but at the same

VII TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 319

time they cultivate the soil to some degree. Both the
Borana and the Rrapp wear short breeches made of
coarse Galla cloth.

From Kome to Borana the road is good only dur-
ing the rainy season; in dry weather it is impassable
by reason of the lack of water en route. A journey
of one month from Kome would be required to reach
these people. We therefore have fixed their where-
abouts in the neighbourhood of the Juba River.

4! ww

ey

HEELZZE AY,
Oi WTY,
Wy

Guaso NYIRO RIVER, NEAR WHERE WE FOUND RENDILE

Neither Lieutenant von Hohnel nor I was able to
come to any satisfactory conclusion as to the origin
of the Rendile, or as to the African family to which
their tribe belonged. In the matter of appearance,
their prevailing light colour, straight hair, blue eyes,
and the custom of cutting out the navel led us to
conclude that they were closely connected with neither
the Somali nor the Galla. Lieutenant von Hohnel
had visited Harrar, and had there seen many Abyssin-
lans, whose appearance, he said, was very different
from that of the Rendile. The language of the Ren-

320 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

dile, although according to our Somali somewhat simi-
lar to theirs, was in so many ways perfectly distinct
from it, that we concluded the similarities had been
the result more of intercommunication between these
peoples in former years than of derivation of the Ren-
dile tongue from the Somali. They also used many
Galla phrases, and the fact that on several occasions
we had heard the chiefs address their followers as
Oromo, led us to believe that they were in some way
connected with the Galla tribe. But the insistence
with which all the Rendile with whom we talked repu-
diated the suggestion, forced us to give up that
theory.

It was easy to explain their familiarity with the
Masai tongue, as that was the language of the Sam-
buru, or Berkenedji, for centuries closely connected with
the Rendile, to whom many of them for years had
been in a state of servitude, while many of their
females had borne children to the Rendile. They
used the word “Ngai” to express the idea of the
Deity alone. This is a Masai word, used by the Masai
not only to express the idea of the Deity, but also as
an exclamation of surprise and wonder. A watch, a
successful shot made with a rifle, an ornament of
great beauty, or anything which excited their admira-
tion, called forth this exclamation. The Rendile had
some idea of a deity, a much clearer one, as far as
we could learn, than that possessed by the Masai, or
any other East African race that had not come into
contact with Christians and Mohammedans.

The weapons of this people, and their implements,
as well as their method of life, were in every respect

VII TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 321

similar to those of nomadic, pastoral people, such as
the Galla and Somali, who inhabit East Africa.

Their government, to a certain extent, was oligarch-
ical. Each village was presided over by its chief,
whose decisions were not final, and were influenced in
great degree by the other rich and prominent men of
his village. Each village was distinct in policy, and
might act for itself quite independently of any or all
the others—might even separate entirely from the rest
of the tribe, if it so willed. They remained united, not
as the result of mutual affection, but as a measure of
safety. For the immediately preceding twenty or thirty
years (and for how many more we were unable to ascer-
tain) they had been the victims of raids from the Borana
and Rrapp on the north, the Somali on the east, and
the Turcana and Masai on the south, whenever the
movements of the Rendile presented a fair opportu-
nity; and the strength of unity, at least, was a binding
tie among them.

The position of the medicine-men, Lesegetetti and
Laogoum, seemed similar to that of the chiefs. These
medicine-men were the means of communication with
the Deity, and it was through them and their arts that
a knowledge of the future came; but the fact that these
medicine-men were known to be not infallible (evidenced
by the defeat the Rendile sustained at the hands of the
Turcana, while acting under advice given by Laogoum)
tempered their power.

The most powerful village of the Rendile was that
presided over by Lokomogul. For the twenty years
past it had not suffered from depredations. This was

supposed to be due to the fact that the medicine-man,
VY

322 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

whoever he might happen at different periods to be,
had always been privileged to make his home with
Lokomogul. There appeared to be great rivalry be-
tween the villages, and the three chiefs with whom
we had dealings were excessively jealous of one another.
After receiving their presents they came singly both
to Lieutenant von Hohnel and to me, and each said
that, as his village was the greatest and most powerful,
he was the most influential chief, and hence a greater
present should be tendered him than the others.

Owing to the fact that all our intercourse with them
was through an interpreter, who spoke the Masai lan-
guage, the native tongue neither of the Rendile nor
of our interpreter, and the further fact that in speak-
ing with our interpreter we were forced to use the
Swahili, it was difficult for us in the short time we
were in communication with these people to gather
really satisfactory information from them.

During a visit from these three chiefs, Lokomogul
gave us a shrewd glance, and asked why, if we were
such great people, we travelled without our wives; they
knew of but one tribe willing to undergo the hard-
ships of life without the companionship of the other
sex, and that tribe was the lowest of the low— they
were outcast robbers and criminals of other tribes—
they were the dthombons. This question was a poser.
We at once felt the difficulty, indeed the impossibility,
of explaining to these untutored savages the fact that
we were able to exist so long without the society of
ladies; but we knew silence should be a last resort in
dealing with Africans. Some reply is always absolutely
necessary; so, under the spur of necessity, we said that

VII TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 323

we had left our women a few weeks’ journey back on
the road, as they had become greatly fatigued by the
long distances we had travelled. Lokomogul then said
that the women of his tribe never tired. Do what we
could later, we were never able to recover the loss of
prestige attached to the fact that our caravan was con-
fined in its personnel strictly to the male sex.

Not being able to penetrate the mystery surround-
ing the origin of these people, we were forced to con-
tent ourselves with the fact that we had discovered
them. It remains for some future traveller attended
with better fortune to lift this veil. Suffice it here
to say, that both Lieutenant von Hohnel and I feel
firmly convinced that, when at some future time a well
qualified and equipped traveller visits these people, he
will find them worthy of his attention. To us, at
least, they seemed the most original and interesting
of all the strange and different peoples met in East
Africa. We think there can be little doubt that hun-
dreds of years ago they came from the far north.
Perhaps in some way they are allied to that mysteri-
ous people called the Shepherd Kings, who thousands
of years ago inhabited Egypt.

During our stay with the Rendile, our guide, May-
olo, had daily, and in fact almost hourly, pressed us
to flee from the neighbourhood. He said that for
many years he had lived with the Rendile, and as-
sured us that they were capable of any degree of
treachery. He said that their treatment of us had
not been such as they were accustomed to accord
friends; but, on the contrary, showed that they looked
upon us not only with distrust, but with positive dis-

324 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

favour. He said that he expected them to attack us
almost any day; and that not a night passed but he went
to rest with the thought that he might never waken.

The members of our caravan did not seem con-
vinced of the friendship of the Rendile; instead of
songs and laughter over their food and about their
camp-fire at night, perfect silence reigned, and conver-
sation was only in whispers. This was the conduct
of the porters and Soudanese. The Somali, however,
had at every opportunity urged the advisability of
immediate attack upon the Rendile. They said that
. a battle would be hard, but that they were convinced
we should succeed, and that then all trouble would be
at an end. We should then possess camels and horses
in great numbers, and be able to travel like gentlemen.

On the occasion when the 4000 camels _ passed
near our camp, cupidity gleamed from the eyes of
the Somali, and when the last animal passed from
sight, they shook their heads and sighed. The temp-
tation to take advantage of the vast herds and flocks
of the Rendile was, I may freely confess, a great one.
Their treatment of us had been anything but kindly.
They had accepted our gifts and offer of friendship,
it is true; but in return for these they had given us
little but unfriendly treatment. They were absolutely
unwilling to trade, and both Lieutenant von Hoéhnel
and I felt that further efforts toward that end would
be useless.

On the other hand, we could not permit ourselves
to fall upon these people, even though the issue of
the present situation would be of most doubtful char-
acter, until they had done something more than to

VII TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 325

cheat our expectations. We had food in plenty, and
we felt that the sacrifice of many lives for the sake
of beasts of burden alone was unwarranted. We
realized, nevertheless, that withdrawal from the neigh-
bourhood would imply to the Rendile that we stood
in fear of them; and with that idea in their minds
the next European who visited their country would
in all likelihood meet with even harsher
treatment than had been accorded us.

Ne i on ‘i \ aN \y

i mA \V NN : Ah vi \ INOS ne
MA f mi HIN i \
ia a ie

h it

Wie fy)
a

TYPE OF LANDSCAPE

With people of a warlike nature, such as the Rendile,
the advance of civilization must always be attended
with more or less bloodshed. Their isolation, their
great numbers and consequent confidence, render them
not only averse to friendly overtures, but prone to
turn their power into a means of easy profit by attack-
ing their visitors.

No African tribe I have yet met preferred trade to
war. Plunder is with them the only means of trans-
acting exchange, until by severe lessons they are taught
that the people with whom’ they are brought into

326 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP. VII

contact are able to take care of themselves, but at the
same time are willing to make fair bargains. It has
been the experience of almost all African travellers, that
commercial intercourse between the European and the
savage is impossible, until, by force of arms, the former
has convinced the natives of his superiority.

At the very inception of our enterprise, while in
Europe, Lieutenant von Hohnel and I had laid our
plans, and counted upon meeting the Rendile, from
whom we had convinced ourselves that we should be
able to procure animals sufficient for the porterage of
our goods. From the coast up to the point of meeting
with the Rendile, notwithstanding most untiring efforts,
we had been unable to provide ourselves with enough
donkeys. The donkeys we took from the coast were
all dead, and we were on the frontier of a new country,
with a caravan amply equipped, as far as supplies
went, for a journey of eighteen months, and yet unable
to move a step for the lack of beasts of burden.

On Lieutenant von Hohnel’s former journey he had
seen, while passing through the country of the Turcana,
thousands of donkeys and several hundred camels.
The Turcana inhabited the country to the southwest
of Lake Rudolph, at a considerable distance from the
point at which we then were. Not only distance inter-
vened, but we knew from our experience in this land
that we should meet with great difficulty in our search
for water. Notwithstanding this, we decided to turn
our steps in that direction. By the young Rendile
who gave us the information concerning the customs
of his people, we sent word to the chiefs that on the
following day we should take our departure.

CHAPTER: VIII

TuHE road to Turcana lay via Seran and Lolokwi.
In fact, this was the only portion of the country with
which we were acquainted; but we hoped to be able,
upon again reaching our friends, the Wanderobbo, to
procure fresh guides, who would be competent to lead
us to the other purchasing-ground for beasts of burden.
At early dawn on the morning of July 8, we left our
camp in the Rendile country, and reached Seran at
three in the afternoon of the same day.

We received no response from our message to the
chiefs of the Rendile; and, in fact, from their unfriendly
behaviour during the last few days of our stay in that
country, we hardly expected any. Nevertheless, we did
not like to leave their country without giving them
notice, lest they should construe our march into some-
thing in the nature of a retreat.

Upon reaching Seran, I made a short detour of the
surrounding country, and killed three zebra and an
oryx beisa. I also wounded a rhinoceros, but the latter
we were unable to get.

About five o’clock of the day of our arrival at Seran,
Lieutenant von Hohnel and I were seated at the door
of our tent, almost entirely undressed, owing to the
heat of the day, and taking tea, when some of our men,
who had gone to a pool of water 300 yards distant

327

328 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

from our camp, to wash some of the donkey saddles,
suddenly appeared, breathless from running, and said
that a large war party of Rendile was approaching the
camp. With all despatch, Lieutenant von Hohnel and
I attired ourselves, and ran forward with twenty men.
Upon reaching the brow of a low hill, we saw before
us three horsemen armed with long spears, and almost
concealed in a thick growth of dhum palms. In their
rear we could discern more horsemen, many camels,
and a large body of foot warriors. We halted.

Between our position and the palms, which served
to conceal the Rendile force, there stretched a little
plain, and over that plain the three horsemen can-
tered slowly to and fro. Upon seeing us, they shouted
to their companions behind, amidst the trees, and
then cried to us: “Serian!” (Peace). Knowing that
Lieutenant von Hohnel and the men with him, who
were the best shots in the caravan, would be perfectly
able to cover my advance, I went forward, accompa-
nied by two of the Somali and a Masai interpreter,
to talk to the three mounted Rendile.

They permitted me to approach to within fifty
yards, but at first no nearer. When I reached that
distance, they waved their hands for me to keep off,
and when I advanced, they would retreat. Finally,
after shouting, “Serian!” I inquired their purpose in
coming. They replied that they were a hunting-party
of the Rendile in search of giraffe, and said that the
camels they had brought with them were for the purpose
of carrying back the meat of such animals as they slew.
They did not attempt, however, to explain the presence
of the large body of foot warriors, some 200 in number.

VII TRAVELS [IN EASTERN AFRICA 329

The men who had been washing the donkey saddles
said they had not noticed the approach of the Ren-
dile, until they were almost upon them; and _ that
from the movements of these people they did not for
a moment think they had come on a peaceful mission.
I shared their opinion. The two Somali who were
with me grinned with excitement and glee, and said:
“Now, master, Allah has delivered these people with
horses and camels into our hands. Now let us seize
them. They are enemies, and they belong to us. We
know that the white man does not wage war for the
sake of plunder; but let us, the Somali, go with a
few men we will select, and in a few moments you
will have horses to ride, and camels to carry your
goods ”

The temptation to yield was, I must admit, next to
irresistible; but as the people concealed among the
trees made no overt attack upon us, and as the horse-
men continued to shout in the most eager manner,
Seman! Serian!” 1 could not permit: myself to 1n-
dulge in the pleasure of an attack.

The three horsemen were men whom we _ had
noticed as followers of Lokomogul. They said that
their chief very much regretted we had left his coun-
try without permitting him to say farewell to us; and
that they had come out of their way while on the
giraffe hunt to bear us this message. One of them
eagerly pointed over his shoulder, and said rapidly,
‘Rhinoceros! Rhinoceros!” This at first conveyed
nothing to our minds; but upon following them to
a distance, we found stretched on the ground the
rhinoceros I had wounded. The sight of this animal

330 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

lying dead upon the ground without apparent wound
in his body was undoubtedly what changed their
intentions from war to peace. Upon examination,
we found that they had time and again plunged their
spears into the body of the animai, to test whether
he was dead or sleeping. When I pointed out the
hole made by my bullet, they evinced every indica-
tion of surprise.

Finally, after many protestations on our part, we
managed to persuade the three horsemen to dis-
mount; but not until I had taken from the soil a
stone, and spat upon it. This seemed to convince
them of my friendly intention, and the older man of
the three did likewise. After this exchange of pledges
of brotherly love, they seemed much more at ease. I
endeavoured to get them to visit my camp, but this
they seemed extremely loath to do. After urging
them to take a message to their chiefs, to the effect
that I would wait for them at Seran, if they had any-
thing to say to me, I was forced to be content to see
them rejoin their men, and start on the return trip
to Rendile.

To watch their movements I sent some of my
men, who returned after dark, and said that the party
never for a moment turned from their course, but
marched with all rapidity towards their home. My
spies reported that there were some thirty horsemen
in the party, and that all of them were fully armed.
I suppose that the young man we had asked to
apprise Lokomogul of our departure neglected to do
so until after we had set out; when, finding we had
left, some of the more courageous decided not to

VIII TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 331

permit such a prize as we appeared to be to slip
through their hands, and so set out for the purpose
of attacking us.

Looking back at this abortive effort on the part of
the Rendile, I must admit that it is only with feelings
of regret that I remember having slain the rhinoceros,
and thus given their warriors an inkling of the real
power of our rifles. If they had not seen the rhinoc-
eros, I think it highly probable they would have
attacked us, and that would have given us every right
to profit by their temerity.

We had left at Lolokwi in the camp of the Wan-
derobbo all the donkey saddles and housing of those
animals which had died prior to our departure.
these were most difficult to replace, and so I de-
cided to send for them, while we waited at Seran in
the hope of a visit, hostile or otherwise, from the Ren-
dile. I sent to bring these saddles, Mohamadi, the
headman of the Swahili, and ten men. Bearing in
mind the slowness of a Zanzibari when left to himself,
I sent with them Achmet Dualla, one of the Somali,
who was perfectly trustworthy, and who I knew would
not loiter upon the way. During their absence, Lieu-
tenant von Héhnel with Mayolo, the guide, went to a
point about eighteen miles to the northwest of Seran,
called Lengaya, in order to map the country, and, if
possible, discover some new route to the Turcana.
He returned in thirty-six hours and reported that
from the appearance of the country and the assurances
of Mayolo, the guide, the track between Lengaya and
Mount Nyiro was absolutely devoid of water, and
therefore at that season impassable for the caravan.

332 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

Much to our disgust, the Rendile did not reappear
during our stay at this place.

The following day Achmet Dualla_ returned with
but three of the party who had accompanied him to
bring back the donkey saddles. The three men had
been sufficient to bring back the empty saddles, and
it is well that they were; for Achmet reported that,

BY

nay

NATIVE BRIDGE—A CHASM IN THE GUASO NYIRO RIVER

be \\y

upon reaching Lolokwi, Mohamadi with the other six
men had made off in the night. This news was all
but pleasant. We knew they would have little diff-
culty in reaching the coast, for the distance between
Lolokwi and the ford on the Guaso Nyiro, where we
had deposited the five days’ food supply, was short
enough to be covered in a day; and after supplying
themselves there they would be able to reach the coast
at Mombasa, or, by following the Tana, at Lamoo.

VIII TRAVELS [N EASTERN AFRICA 333

During our stay with the Rendile I had served out
to my men forty rounds of ammunition. As _ the
deserters were expert shots, they would be able to
supply themselves with game on the way, and after
reaching Hameye they could intimidate the Pokomo.
At Hameye, providing themselves with canoes, they
could easily float down-stream to the coast. With
the donkey saddles I had also left the two ivory
tusks taken from the elephant shot by Lieutenant
von Hoéhnel. These were worth about $150; and as
they were taken by these men, they would supply
them with means after_reaching the coast to return
to Zanzibar.

Our visit to the Rendile, except for the purpose of
discovery, and the interest which they had excited,
was anything but satisfactory. From the appearance
of these people, and the fact that they possessed
horses, our men had acquired a great dread of them,
and this undoubtedly increased the Zanzibari’s willing-
ness to desert. However, I did not give up all hope
of catching Mohamadi. Knowing the Zanzibari char-
acter, I thought he would go straight to Daitcho,
inform George that he and his six men were the sole
survivors of our party, and endeavour to induce George
and the rest of the caravan to return to the coast.
Bearing this in mind, it seemed not only advisable,
but necessary, to return at once to Daitcho, not only
to relieve the mind of George, should Mohamadi have
told him some plausible story, but also in the hope
of capturing the deserters. Accordingly Lieutenant
von Hohnel set out the following day for Lolokwi,
where he was to wait until I returned, which I pro-

334 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

posed doing in fifteen days. During this time Lieu-
tenant von Hoéhnel would be able, we hoped, to procure
guides. Upon my return from Daitcho with an in-
creased supply of food, and men to take the place
of the deserters, we hoped to push on to the Turcana
in search of donkeys.

By reference to the map the reader can form some
conception of the circuitous route we were forced to
take on our march from Daitcho to Kome, where we
found the Rendile. In an unknown country it is
impossible to follow a straight or direct road, when
one’s path lies through a waterless desert.

Upon my setting out from Seran, Lieutenant von
Hohnel gave me the direction I should pursue, by
compass, and told me that, if I followed his course,
and marched at the rate of three miles per hour, I
should reach before dark our old Christmas camping-
place on the Guaso Nyiro. Bearing these instruc-
tions in mind, I reached the Guaso Nyiro immediately
opposite this camp after a ten hours’ march. My men
were lightly laden, and the direction in which we
marched seemed to lend wings to their feet; for our
backs were then turned upon the Rendile, and they
were facing the coast.

In crossing the river we experienced some difficulty,
as it was still in flood; but, once across, we again
stepped out briskly, and by two in the afternoon we
reached Ngombe crater.

At 1.30 pM., July 19, we reached Daitcho, having
accomplished the distance from Seran in three and
one-half days; or, allowing for the detours we had
been compelled to make on account of the condition

vil TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 335

of the road, we had covered seventy-five miles in that
time. When we formerly set out from Daitcho, it
required more than twenty days to reach Seran; but
upon the return journey, being more familiar with
the road, we had been able to cover the distance
between these two points in three and one-half days.
I found all working satisfactorily at Daitcho.
George had the men in good condition, and, in order
to prevent idleness and its customary result in mis-
chief, had kept them constantly employed. A _ party
of twenty was engaged in making rope for camel and
donkey saddles, or the binding of loads. This rope
was made by beating out a fibrous plant, carefully
drying it, and then rubbing it into strips, which were
eventually plaited into an excellent rope. Others
were employed in making large straw baskets in
which to store flour. One, a Manyema, was busily
engaged in weaving a straw cloth used by the tribe
to which he belonged for clothing. To do this work
he had been forced to make a loom; and though his
progress was slow, the work kept his thoughts busy,
thereby preventing them from reverting to the pleas-
wes of the coast. . The rest of the men were engaged
from morning until night in pounding dried cassava
into flour. The entire caravan looked fat and well.
During our absence George had done considerable
shooting, and had fed all the men he had with him,
either upon the meat which he procured, or with the
grain he had been able to purchase from the natives
of Daitcho in exchange for his surplus meat. The
natives are so rarely permitted to indulge their crav-
ing for flesh, that they gladly exchanged flour, beans,

336 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

or anything they had, for a few pounds of it. Owing
to the friendly relations which George had maintained
with them, and doubtless also to the plentiful supply
of meat which they had procured from him, the Dait-
cho had behaved in the most friendly manner; and
after my arrival I held a levee of the principal men
of the tribe, when I met many people who had _ not
theretofore come to our camp.

The day after my arrival was spent in ease which
the men who had accompanied me from Seran ap-
preciated as much as I did. They were allowed as
much food as they could eat, and of as great variety
as the markets of Daitcho afforded. Their camp-
fires seemed never to go out. At all times they
were thoroughly filled, and they revelled in the great-
est pleasure a Zanzibari is capable of experiencing —
a gorged stomach.

During my stay at Daitcho the men who had re-
mained behind with George performed their daily
labours but indifferently well. Their minds were not
upon their work, and all their thoughts were cen-
tred upon the moment when the drum should sound,
and they should be released from their tasks, to
gather around the men who had accompanied me,
and from them hear marvellous tales of what had
befallen them.

Most of their tales I never heard, but from a few
snatches which reached my ears I gathered the im-
pression that Munchausen would have produced a
much more interesting work had he been a native
of Zanzibar. To impart an idea of the boundless
genius of the Zanzibari in the field of imagination,

Vil TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 337

I will relate one of the stories current in our camp
at Daitcho within.a day after our arrival. It was @
propos of the Rendile. The Rendile were said to be,
one and all, mounted upon coal-black steeds, clad in
garments of the finest texture, and armed with Arab
scimitars, upon the blades of which verses from the
Koran were inscribed. They were also said to pos-
sess thousands of slaves. And the authors of this
tale assured their hearers that it was simply owing to
my ability in magic that they had escaped from the
clutches of the Rendile. At first this story was re-
ceived with a measure of incredulity; but constant
repetition of even the most improbable lie is sufh-
cient to stamp it as truth in the minds of these sim-
ple negroes.

George’s stay at Daitcho had been free from any
unusual or surprising occurrences, except those cus-
tomarily attendant upon the sojourn of a white man-
in Africa. However, one of his experiences may be
worthy of mention. Our camp had become so infested
with fleas that he was unable to sleep in the zeriba
at night; and so had acquired the habit of placing
his bed without the palisade, taking care, however,
to build a rousing fire near him to frighten away
beasts of prey. I had left with him one of the
puppies we had raised upon our journey; the other
two we had taken along with us. It was the wont
of this puppy to sleep at the foot of George’s bed.
Upon one occasion, while George was sleeping with-
out the palisade, a loud yelp from the pup awakened
him. Leaping from his bed, he saw, by the light of
the dying fire, a large hyena bearing his guardian

Z

338 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

away in its mouth. The daring of a hungry hyena
is proverbial; so this adventure was not particularly
surprising, especially when it is borne in mind that
the natives of the Jombeni range leave their dead un-
buried, thereby increasing the temerity of the hyena
in the presence of man.

Shortly after reaching the Rendile, I had received
from Lomoro, the chief, a present of a small, shock-
haired dog, of a species said to be owned in great
numbers by the Rendile. I left this animal with
George to replace the puppy stolen by the hyena.
This creature, however, remained steadfast to the
nomadic instincts imbued by the roving habits of the
Rendile; and, after growing strong enough to walk,
one fine day took himself off, never to return.

George had heard no rumours whatever of the run-
aways; so it seemed clear to me that Mohamadi and
his party had made their way by the shortest route
to the coast; however, he had the men who had
deserted from us on the second day after Lieutenant
von Hoéhnel and I had left Daitcho on our journey
to the Rendile. These men had voluntarily returned
to the camp at Daitcho, and said they were tired of
marching and preferred camp life. This they con-
sidered sufficient warranty for their desertion.

During our stay in Daitcho, one event of some
little interest occurred. About two o’clock one morn-
ing the men on guard at one of the gates discharged
their rifles, and upon running out we succeeded in
capturing two natives. According to our pickets,
these two men had endeavoured to steal past them,
and enter the zeriba. They were armed after the

VIII TRAVELS [IN EASTERN AFRICA 339

most approved manner of thugs. About the person
and in the hands of each were six effective slung-
shots, consisting of heavy stones bound to a leathern
thong. Doubtless their purpose was robbery, and it
was entirely owing to the watchfulness of our pickets
that their capture was the only result of their visit.
Of course, they denied all evil intention; but on
the following day, after calling up the headmen of the
Daitcho, we discovered that they were not members
of that tribe, but, undoubtedly, were Embe. The

i!

l,!
ii
ANN

MEN PLAYING CARDS IN CAMP

headmen assured us that the presence of these men
in the Daitcho country at that time of night was
proof, to them at least, that they had not come on a
mission of benevolence. We stripped them of their
weapons, and sent them back as a warning to their
people.

On Monday, July 24, I set out, accompanied by
eighteen porters, Karscho, my gun-bearer, and my
two tent-boys, to rejoin Lieutenant von Hdéhnel at
Lolokwi. On parting at Seran, I had promised to
rejoin him there in fifteen days; and as I had, when
setting out from Daitcho, seven days still remaining,

340 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

I felt confident that by brisk marching I would be
able to fulfil my promise. There was a marked dif-
ference in the marching ability of the men who had
been with us to the Rendile, and of those who had
remained at Daitcho. The latter suffered excessively
from thirst, although, for the first day and a half, we
were never more than one hour without crossing a
stream of some sort. Their feet were sore, and they
evinced signs of fatigue after a short march.

On the morning of July 26, two days from Dait-
cho, we set out early, knowing that we had a long,
waterless march between us and the Ngombe crater.
I cautioned my men to be sparing in the use of the
water in their bottles; and, not contenting myself with
this, I halted at the end of each hour, and examined
the quantity in the bottle of each man. I offered
rewards for the men who would arrive at camp with
a drop or two in their bottles, and promised punish-
ment to those who should exhaust the three litres
before reaching camp. These deterrents proved of
no avail. Two hours after we had set out, the new
recruits from Daitcho had exhausted every drop in
their bottles; while those who had been with me to
the Rendile had, by that time, not touched their water
at all. It was pitiful to hear the foolish creatures who
had exhausted their supply, not only begging, but offer-
ing to purchase a draught from the bottles of their
wiser Companions.

By 2 p.m. two of my men were nearly dead with
thirst; they were quite out of their minds, and raved
continually. Their loads were taken away, and given
to two men I had brought with me and permitted to go

VIII TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 341

unladen in anticipation of such an emergency. Curi-
ously enough, although they had, for the moment,
become mad by reason of their thirst, their ravings
bore no reference to water. They shouted, laughed,
cracked jokes, and staggered along with pleasant faces;
but their wild and staring eyes, their uncertain steps,
and the rambling manner of their talk gave positive
evidence of their condition. To these two men I
served out all the water I carried for myself, as I had
by this time become accustomed to march for many
hours without liquid refreshment. I also distributed
among the people a few sticks of sugar-cane, which I
was conveying to Lieutenant von Hohnel as a present
from the Daitcho. Although the men seemed _per-
fectly aware that I was denying myself, to a certain
extent, in giving them these things, they evinced no
sign of gratitude; but, after the nature of their kind,
accepted what I gave them in a greedy manner, and
meanwhile commented on the small quantity each
received.

We continued the march, and by 6 p.m. reached the
native trail leading from the Jombeni range to the
Ngombe crater, when I halted to allow the caravan to
close up. To induce them to move in more vigorous
fashion, I had pressed on with all speed, accompanied
by my two tent-boys. As soon as I was able to dis-
cern the figures of my men approaching me along the
side of the hill, I again set out, knowing that, after they
reached the native trail, they would have no difficulty
in arriving at the Ngombe crater.

Shortly after sunset I had a rather disagreeable
experience. I was striding along in the centre of the

342 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

path, whistling, and my two tent-boys were engaged
in eager conversation about twenty feet to my left
and rear, when suddenly I heard Baraka shout, “ Yallah
bwana mkubwa!” (For the love of God, master).
As he shouted, I felt a sharp blow on my left side
just over the pocket of my coat, and leaping quickly
to one side, I ran on for two or three paces. Upon
turning around, [ saw a snake rising out of the path
which I had just left, with its head fully three feet
from the ground. Its fierce eyes. shone in the light
of the setting sun, and its neck was swollen out until
it appeared to have the breadth of two hands. As I
gazed, it slowly and noiselessly sank to the earth and
disappeared from the path. I did not pursue it, prin-
cipally for the reason that a shot fired after sunset
was understood by my caravan to mean a signal of
distress; and that would have resulted in my men
throwing down their loads and running forward to
meet me, thus delaying our arrival at the water.

My escape from such a disagreeable death was most
fortunate. Had it not been for the fact that I carried
in the left-side pocket of my coat two strongly bound
note-books, the fangs of the serpent would undoubt-
edly have penetrated to my flesh, and judging from
its size (the fact that it was able to raise its head a
sufficient height to strike my pocket, proved its entire
length could have been little short of six feet) death
would have been practically instantaneous. Upon ex-
amination, I found that the fangs had _ penetrated
quite through one of the books, and: nearly through
the outer covering of the other. It is strange how
accustomed one becomes to disagreeable surprises

vit TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 343

after a stay of some months in Africa; and to this
fact I attribute the indifference with which I treated
the affair. My mind was filled with the necessity of
reaching water, and sending back succour to the men
who had gone out of their heads for the want of it;
so, after a few exclamations of relief, and a hearty
laugh over the adventure, I pressed on with my boys
to our goal.

Two hours after we reached our old camp on the
side of the crater, all my men turned up except the
two who were out of their minds, and one of their
fellows who had remained behind to watch over
them.

On the trail to the crater I had noticed footprints ;
consequently I expected to meet natives. I knew
that not only the Embe visited that place for the
purpose of getting the sulphate of magnesium, but
also all the other tribes of the Jombeni range, and
there was a degree of likelihood that we should meet
a party of our old friends, the Wamsara.

Immediately upon the arrival of my men, we
entered the chasm which led to the interior of the
crater. The moon was sufficiently high to lght us
on our way, and I shall not soon forget the weird
effect produced by its light, as we slowly and with
difficulty wended our way over the stony bottom of
the rift in the crater, whose walls rose high on both
sides, and by their jagged outlines gave the effect of
some medieval ruin. When suddenly we reached
ehnevend of the rift, and the deep extent’ of the vast
crater was exposed to view, illumined to its utmost
bounds by the rays of the moon, the effect was almost

344 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

supernatural. The circular sides of the interior cast
no shadow, so that the bottom of the hollow stood
out in all the perfection of its form. In the centre
of the hollow gleamed, white and _ startling, the
deposit of sulphate of magnesium.

Owing to the depth of the crater, and the bright
moonlight, we were unable to distinguish the fires,
which we knew would be burning if natives were
encamped there. Such is the distance of the crater
from the last village of the Embe on the Jombeni
range, that the natives visiting this spot are forced to
spend the night in its hollow bottom. Not only do
the natives imagine this crater to be inhabited by
spirits of the most dreadful type, but long and _ pain-
ful experience had taught them that the spot we had
chosen for our camp, namely, the outer side of the
crater, near the entrance, was infested with lions. For
that reason they invariably passed the night at the
bottom of the crater, where, for the purpose of safety,
they had build a strong thorn zeriba.

Upon reaching the edge of the crater, I sent Karscho,
my gun-bearer, with all the men (except those who had
remained behind with the two sufferers from thirst, and
my two tent-boys) to the bottom, to get water. I told
them to advance as noiselessly as possible, and procure
their water, without arousing the natives, should they
find any there; but if they should find natives in great
number, who in any way proved hostile, they were to
take what cover they could secure behind the rocks on
the side of the crater opposite the entrance. If attacked,
they were to fire upon the natives, who thereupon would
flee up the other side, in my direction, and endeavour

VIII TRAVELS [IN EASTERN AFRICA 345

to pass through the only means of egress, which I, with
my Winchester, was perfectly capable of holding.

After my men left me, I experienced a feeling of
intensest loneliness, and my mind filled with a variety
of anxious thoughts: first, for the men we had been
forced to leave behind, who were so keenly suffering
from thirst; next, of the possibility that my people, who
had gone in search of water, might fall into the hands
of enemies; then, of my personal safety, for I knew
the spot was frequented by lions. My nerves were
stretched to the utmost tension. I sat down, placed
my back against the steep surface of a rock, and alter-
nately gazed into the dark shadows which surrounded
me, and the vast amphitheatre stretched at my feet.

I sat thus occupied for perhaps a quarter of an hour,
when I heard the well-known grumble of a lion in
Search of prey. It is only in a: menagerie that the
“king of beasts” expresses his hunger by means of
roars. When in a state of nature, where the gratifica-
tion of appetite is more dependent upon the degree
of silence and skill with which prey is approached, the
lion exercises greater self-control, but, fortunately, at
no time sufficient to conceal his whereabouts. Instead
of roars, he then gives vent to full-lunged, guttural sighs,
which are emitted, not in rapid succession, but with
sufficient pause between each to render their beginnings
and endings remarkably distinct and effective.

The noise of the footsteps of my men, as they de-
scended the stony path leading to the bottom of the
crater, satisfied, while it lasted, whatever curiosity my
sense of hearing aroused. But, when I could no longer
distinguish the noise of falling stones, and the groans

346 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

and exclamations of the men, as they painfully made
their descent, the presence of this other and far more
ominous sound impressed itself with peculiar sudden-
ness upon my mind. Although I both instinctively
and instantaneously knew its import, I. could scarce
credit my ears, until frequent repetition and increase in
volume of the sound convinced me that the lion (for
such it was) was approaching nearer and nearer.

The shadows, which filled the rift in the side of the
crater through which I had come, prevented me from
distinguishing anything in that direction; and so, with
all senses keenly alert, I turned my eyes to the surface
lit by the moonlight. I even looked into the hollow
of the crater stretched far below, where I could mo-
mentarily distinguish gleams of light reflected back
from the shining sides of the water-bottles carried by
my men, who by that time were making their way across
the bottom.

The peculiar formation of the place rendered it diff-
cult to fix the position of a sound with any degree of
accuracy, but eventually I discovered that the lion
was approaching me from above; and the rattle of slip-
ping and falling stones soon led me to decide upon the
direction from which to expect his coming. For a
moment, I thought of firing a shot into the air to
frighten him; but I at once realized that such a shot
would be construed by my men in the crater as a sig-
nal; and, in addition, would not only arouse the natives
below, but interfere with the prompt procurement of
water. But I was unable to remain quiet; so I seized
stones from the ground at my feet, and hurled them
vigorously in the direction from which I heard the lion

VIII TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 347

coming. The grumbling noise ceased; and encouraged
by this, I continued to throw stones in the same direc-
tion, occasionally giving vent to a low-toned but vigorous
shout. This game I continued until my arm was tired
and my voice hoarse. No further sound came to me.
At length I could distinguish the voices of my men, as
they clambered up the side of the crater. When they
had approached within hailing distance, I told them
of the presence of the lion; and they at once began
to shout, and beat their water-bottles, which probably
had the desired effect, for we heard no more of his
feline majesty.

My men reported that they had found about seventy
natives at the bottom of the crater, and that these,
upon discovering their presence, had evinced every
sign of terror; but upon learning who my men were,
had assured them that they were Embe and our
friends, and had presented my people with sugar-
cane and yams.

It was nearly one o'clock in the morning before the
men who were suffering from thirst reached camp, and
their thirst was not quenched until the two had drunk
nine litres of this disagreeable water. They reached
camp with recovered senses, but worn out and very
feeble. Notwithstanding the fact that natives were
in the immediate neighbourhood, we were so fatigued
by the labours of the day that we went to sleep after
starting camp-fires, without so much as detailing a
single picket.

The march was not resumed until late the follow-
ing day, in order to give the sufferers from thirst an
opportunity to recover fully. While we were waiting,

348 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

a party of 100 natives appeared, mostly young and
well-armed men. They had come from the mountains,
and were provided with bags in which to take back
sulphate of magnesium. Upon seeing us, they halted,
and sent forward a few of their number to assure
us of their good intentions with respect to our cara-
van. They said they were Embe, but this was not
the case, as the only language they spoke, even among
themselves, was Masai; which proved them to have
come from the Janjy country, in which many Masai
have settled of recent years, since their cattle were
destroyed by the plague.

After having exchanged greetings with us, the old
men, who appeared to be the leaders of the expedi-
tion, advanced to the edge of the crater, and began
to implore the protection of the spirit dwelling therein,
raising their arms high in the air. While engaged
in this prayer, the old men seemed very fervent; but
their younger followers paid little attention to the vica-
rious supplication, for during the prayer they chatted
among themselves, and occasionally with some of my
men.

We reached the Guaso Nyiro at the place where
we had left the loads of food on the former trip, and
a search in the hiding-place revealed a fact we had
suspected. Mohamadi had removed most of the flour,
and what he did not take with him he had scattered on
the ground. After crossing the Guaso Nyiro I found
game plentiful; and was much interested in watching
a lioness stalking a small herd of water-buck. She
was 400 yards distant from me, but I could distinctly
make out her movements with the aid of my field-

VIII TRAVELS [IN EASTERN AFRICA 349

glasses. She trotted quietly along within forty or
fifty paces of the herd, which was quietly feeding
up-wind, and seemed unconscious of the proximity of
the lioness. I, in my turn, stalked her carefully, but
her senses were sufficiently alert to warn her of my
approach, and she made off before I could get within
300 yards.

As we neared Lolokwi, the caravan was charged by
a rhinoceros. One shot from my Winchester turned
him, and another, reaching his heart, laid him low.
I left some of the men to cut up the meat, and pushed
on, in order to meet Lieutenant von Hdhnel before
dark. I arrived at Lolokwi, where I met Lieutenant
von Hohnel, on the evening of July 30, at eight o’clock
—just fifteen days from the time we had parted.

After he had reached Lolokwi, Lieutenant von
Hohnel had made great efforts to secure guides; but
his difficulties were increased by the fact that the
Wanderobbo we had found there on our former visit
had migrated. After days of search on the desert, he
managed to fall in with some Wanderobbo, from among
whom he procured guides, who promised to take us
to their people at a place called Sayer, situated at the
base of the Loroghi range, and about three days’
march distant. The disease which had destroyed our
donkeys seemed by this time to have run its course,
and we had twelve of these animals in the very best
condition,

The day after our arrival at Lolokwi I was pros-
trated with fever, but owing to the small quantity of
water there I was unable to make a stay, and was
compelled to push on. After two days of tiring march-

[) miQo

Exe) THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

ing we reached the Guaso Nyiro at a point where it
flows from the Leikipia plateau. There I rested two
days, and nursed my fever, while Lieutenant von
Hohnel and most of the men pushed on to Sayer.
While I was encamped on the banks of the river, a
party of Wanderobbo appeared on the opposite bank
and begged for food; but as they were unwilling to
cross the river for it, they received none. They said
that they were and had for many days been starving;
and that they had with them plenty of ivory, which
they were anxious to exchange for beans and _ flour.
They told me that there was a large force of Masai
settled at a place called Kythere, who were possessed
of vast flocks of goats and sheep, and many donkeys.

On Tuesday, August 8, still suffering frorn fever, I
was borne in a hammock to Sayer, where I found
Lieutenant von Hodhnel and the rest of my men.
The camp was surrounded by more than fifty Wan-
derobbo, drawn thither by the fact that on the previ-
ous day Lieutenant von Héhnel had killed two fine
elephants, the tusks of the one weighing eighty-four
and eighty pounds, and of the other, fifty and fifty-
eight pounds. The Wanderobbo were absolutely starv-
ing, and had not Lieutenant von Hohnel succeeded
in killing these beasts, many of them would certainly
have died. The country was literally alive with ele-
phants; but these natives, fearing to spear them, trusted
entirely to their traps, which the sagacity of the ele-
phant frequently enabled him to avoid.

These traps were made by placing across one of the
elephant paths a rope which was attached to a weighted
spear hung high overhead from the branch of a tree.

VUI TRAVELS [NV EASTERN AFRICA 351

The rope, upon contact with the elephant’s leg, breaks,
and down comes the spear. This is not often fatal.
The spear is thickly smeared with poison, and is so
hung that, when it drops, it will strike the elephant

ne ip -te * US ‘a
FEE ROTO ee
ieee 7 Ex nip iy ad:

bang ] Ly By a3)

Y Bide

SCENE ON THE GUASO NYIRO RIVER

just behind the shoulders. All the natives of East
Africa who use poisoned arrows or spears in the pur-
suit of game, do not for a moment hesitate to eat the
flesh of the animals thus poisoned; they are careful,

however, to avoid that portion of the flesh immediately
surrounding the wound.

352 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

Our camp at Sayer was pitched in a beautiful spot,
a little valley nestled between high and rugged hills.
Through this valley there flowed a cold, sparkling
stream, called Sayer, which rose on the Leikipia plateau,
and emptied into the desert between mountains of the
General Matthews range. On the banks of this stream
we pitched our camp. The air was cool and bracing;
in fact, in the early morning it very much reminded
me of the cold air of the highlands of Scotland.

Under the influence of this change of climate |
rapidly recovered, and after a two days’ stay at Sayer
I was quite myself again. While I was in a conva-
lescent state, Lieutenant von Hohnel went out daily
in search of elephants, but was not favoured with any
luck. The bush in this part of the country is so thick
that elephants, large though they be, are very difficult
to find.

One day the chief of the Wanderobbo tribe in the
neighbourhood of Sayer came with his followers to see
us. They gave us some delicious honey and a small
tusk of ivory; then begged us for medicine to enable
them to kill game. We took many photographs of
these people; but they were among the number which
turned out badly. They told us they had ivory to
sell, and they hoped we would buy it. It was impos-
sible to explain to them that I had no use for ivory,
as all the traders they had previously met had shown
their desire to get it; so I was not much surprised
one day to find ten Wanderobbo approaching my camp,
each bearing upon his shoulder a tusk. I gave them
some tobacco, and told them I should be very glad to
buy ivory, but that I had no means of transporting it,

VIII TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 353

as all my men were needed to carry food. They said:
“Buy the ivory, and leave it with us, and when you
return, or send a man with some token to these parts,
we will deliver it to him.” My Masai interpreters,
who had traded with the Wanderobbo, said that,
strange though it might seem, the Wanderobbo never
broke their promises to traders; and if they sold a
tusk to a man, they would keep it for him until he
returned for it or sent some one with a recognized
token. In former times the Wanderobbo used to sell
ivory to traders in exchange for beads, wire, and
cloth, which they in turn exchanged with the Masai
for cattle, goats, and sheep; but since the plague had
destroyed the flocks of the Masai, and dispersed the
people, the Wanderobbo, in place of beads, wire, and
cloth, demanded sheep, goats, flour, and beans.

The trading is carried on in this peculiar manner:
Upon the arrival of a caravan at a Wanderobbo vil-
lage, presents are showered upon the natives, and the
question is then asked: “Have you ivory?” The
natives usually tell the truth, and state whether or
not they have ivory; but sometimes they conceal the
fact, as they are often indebted to the traders, and
keep the tusks for them until they return. The ivory,
unless very small, is not taken to their villages, but
is buried where the elephant fell. If the native asks
for a present, before he will show the whereabouts of
the ivory, it is an indication that the tusks are large;
in which case he gets a gift of wire, beads, or food,
both before and after bringing the ivory. When the
presents have been given (among which tobacco is a

sine gua non), then, and not until then, trade begins.
2A

354 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

The Wanderobbo were particularly anxious to get
donkeys, as they used these animals to carry the
meat slain by their young men to the villages. Two
or three of the more energetic younger members of
the village asked me to give them special medicine
that would enable them to kill elephants; and to
humour them I mixed a noxious potion of milk,
Worcestershire sauce, mustard, and salt. The pecul-
iarity of the flavour of this mixture seemed to satisfy
them of its efficacy, and smilingly they departed on
their way.

Daily we asked the Wanderobbo for guides to the
north; but they implored that before leaving them
we should kill elephants, and supply their women
and children with food; which done, they promised
to supply us with guides well acquainted with the
road. With this end in view, Lieutenant von Hé6h-
nel, with five men, set out in one direction, while I,
taking twelve, went in another.

For the first two hours of our march from the
camp at Sayer our road lay through rugged and steep
hills, clad with thorn bush; but at length we reached
the wide valley stretching between the Loroghi range
on one side and the General Matthews range on the
other. On our left at a distance of five miles was
Loroghi. Here its face was abrupt and wooded, with
its top towering 10,000 feet above the sea. On our
right stood the peaks of the General Matthews range,
— Gerguess, Lasuran, Malon, and Merkeben, — some
of them 13,000 feet high. They stretched in a long
and unbroken line to the north, and ended in a blue
point which my guides informed me was Mount Nyiro.

vill TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 355

The distance from Sayer to Nyiro could be traversed
in six days. Knowing, as I did, that Nyiro lay within
sight at Lake Rudolph, and that the Turcana with
their camels and donkeys lived in the immediate
neighbourhood of that lake, it was with feelings of
impatience that I realized that we were not on our
march in that direction, but were wasting valuable
time in order to satisfy the hunger of the Wande-
robbo, before being able to induce them to provide us
with guides.

At 5 p.m. I reached a village of the Wanderobbo
called Bugoi from a stream of that name, which flows
from the Loroghi range past the village. At first
sight this village was similar to any encampment in
East Africa. It was surrounded by a strong thorn
zeriba, and around the inner side of the enclosure
were erected small grass huts. But it differed from
others that we had heretofore seen. It was not sur-
rounded by plantations; there were no storehouses
for food; no. flocks or herds 'pastured near it, and
animal existence was represented by a group of small
and emaciated donkeys, possibly eighteen in number,
which fed in a listless manner upon the scant herb-
age which the plain afforded. Upon our arrival at
the village, although they had been notified of our
coming, no reception was accorded us. We were
allowed to pitch our camp in their immediate neigh-
bourhood, send for water, cut wood, and make all
preparations for the night, ere a single visitor be-
trayed by his presence any interest in our actions.

The first man who emerged from the village, and
came to my tent, was perhaps fifty years of age, ema-

356 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

ciated to a startling degree, his flesh clinging with
grim tenacity to his bones, and his movements halt-
ing and weak. He assisted himself with a long staff.
Upon reaching my tent, he seated himself upon the
ground, crossed his hands over his stomach, and with
an appealing look hoarsely muttered the words, “ Njo
njirr” (Give me meat) Some of my men were
engaged in cooking strips of giraffe meat, and bits
of the hide of that animal were lying about the camp
drying, to be made into sandals. I told my men to
give him some of their food, which they did. He
seized it like a vulture, and, raw as it was, he vora-
ciously devoured it. Having begged in vain for more
of the raw meat, he turned to the bits of partly dried
hide, and begged piteously for them. Throughout
this scene my ears were assailed with the wailing
cries coming from a neighbouring zeriba, and the
sounds of hammering. Upon asking what these
sounds meant, I was told by my visitor that they
were caused by the breaking up of dried bones; while
the cries came from the starving people begging for
their share of the feast. Our guest told us that with
the exception of two or three fortunate hunters, who
had succeeded in killing a small wart hog, none of
the members of the village (numbering too souls) had
tasted food for ten days. Startling though his state-
ment seemed, his appearance seemed to warrant it.
At length the old man returned to his people; and
as soon as it became known that he had succeeded
in obtaining food, the entire village came out and
surrounded my camp. The inhabitants consisted of
people ranging from fifty years of age down to babies

VIII TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 357

of a few months. With the exception of four or five
youths, the entire community seemed mere bags of
skin and bones. Their voices were hoarse, their eyes
sunken far within their sockets, and their lips tightly
drawn over their teeth; but even in that emaciated
condition they seemed to enjoy the pleasures of con-
versation, and exchanged remarks and jokes upon the
appearance of myself and my men.

The headman of the village, called “ Leguinan” (a
Masai word, meaning leader), came to me, and after
cheerfully expectorating in my face (an act which the
Masai, Wanderobbo, and kindred tribes consider the
best testimony of their deep admiration and _friend-
ship), proceeded to inform me of the starving con-
dition of his people, and prayed that I would lend
my powerful aid in supplying them with food. This
meant elephant, for the flesh of the elephant is the
favourite and staple food of these people. They will
eat anything which they can procure; but they pre-
fer the elephant, because it has more flesh on it, and
the killing of one of these beasts means tons of meat.
I told them I had come to. them for the purpose of
providing them with food, and hoped that on the
morrow they would guide me to a place where |
would find many elephants; but this proposition did
mot seem to meet the views of the, Leguinan of the
Wanderobbo. He noticed that we had a good supply
of food for our men; and before setting out upon a
journey, for the purpose of finding what possibly we
might not get, he thought it much better that he and
his tribe should be furnished with food from our
stores. He said that he had made bad medicine for

358 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

the last two or three days, and that he had divined
from his medicine that the elephants would be wary
in the extreme, so that all efforts to kill them would
meet with ill success. A long and patient talk ensued
(I being the contributor of most of the patience); and
this resulted in a promise that the Leguinan and the
more active of his tribe would set out with me shortly
after midnight for the purpose of finding elephant.
He said his medicine had told him that we should
find none; but if I told him that my medicine would
produce these beasts, he was willing to undergo what
appeared to him unnecessary exertion. Neither my
men nor myself got much sleep that night. The
starving natives spent the entire night in songs and
prayers for our success on the morrow. The ham-
mering sounds continued several hours after sunset,
and when they finally ceased, I realized that even
the last bone in the camp was gone, and that it rested
with me and my fortune in hunting to keep these
poor people from death by starvation.

The next day, Thursday, August 17, I awoke at
four o’clock, and found standing in front of my tent
a band of Wanderobbo, who had been there for some
time, waiting to act as guides on the elephant hunt.
Most of them were youths. All of them were armed
with bows and arrows, and each carried an elephant
spear, which they called “Bonati.” This spear is
six feet in length, thick at either end, and narrowed
where grasped by the hand. In one end is bored a
hole, into which is fitted an arrow two feet long, as
thick as one’s thumb, and with a head two inches
broad. Their method of killing elephants is to creep

VIII TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 359

cautiously up to the beast, and drive a spear into its
loin. A quick twist separates the spear from the
arrow, and they make off as fast and silently as pos-
sible. In all cases the arrows are poisoned; and if
they are well introduced into the animal’s body, the
elephant does not go far. The Wanderobbo are
‘much afraid of elephants; but, despite this fact, hun-
ger drives them to approach within striking distance
of these animals, and their lives depend upon the
agility and silence of their retreat after striking. I
had in all about thirty guides accompanying me,
each bearing in his hand a torch. The torch was
for the purpose of taking the chill off the air, and
warming their bodies. They were clad in short
cloaks similar to those worn by the warriors on the
Jombeni range; and excepting this cloak and their
sandals, they were naked.

ietook five of my men, and set out’ with the
guides towards Loroghi. Our path lay among stunted
thorn bushes; and as it was lighted by only the
torches of the Wanderobbo guides and _ the stars,
progress was extremely slow. Just at sunrise we
reached a delightful spring, where I halted, and sent
back two of my men to the people I had left at the
Wanderobbo village, with instructions for them to
come on to this point and make camp. Having done
this, we continued the march for three hours more.
My guides were perfectly silent; and, spurred on by
hunger, their patience appeared to be put to extreme
tension by the slow, steady rate at which I ad-
vanced. At length we reached a small gneiss hill,
which I climbed, and from its top scanned the sur-

360 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

rounding country, in the hope of seeing an elephant.
My guides took no interest whatever in this action,
and refused to climb the hill. Upon my return they
asked me whether I had seen elephants. I said,
“No.” “Have you heard elephants?” I said, “ No.”
“Come,” said they, “let us waste no more time; we
have heard them, and there is a large herd not far
from us.” I bore in mind the fact that the Le-
guinan had assured me the day before that his medi-
cine had told him we should not find elephants; and

SOME OF MY MEN WITH IVORY

I felt that as I had assured him that my medicine
was sufficient to produce these animals, it would be
somewhat impolitic to set off in the direction indi-
cated by these guides. So I refused to do so, and
returned to the vantage point at the top of the hill.

There can be no doubt that, though civilization
can accentuate certain more or less artificial sensa-
tions, it does not increase the faculties of sight, hear-
ing, and smell. Upon my return to the top of the
hill, I took with me the Leguinan, and asked him in
what direction he had heard the elephants. He indi-
cated by pointing. With my field-glasses I was un-

VIII TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 361

able to distinguish anything in the direction he
pointed, and so told him. He seemed much disap-
pointed, and by his actions appeared to lose a degree
of his faith in my power as a medicine-man. I satis-
fied myself by telling him that we should undoubtedly
find elephants on that day. I told him we would go
where he indicated, and if we did not find any there,
we certainly should find them elsewhere during the
day. This seemed to please him, and we all set out.
Before doing so, the natives removed their sandals
and cloaks, and those armed with bows laid them
aside. Their right hands grasped their elephant
spears, while in their left they carried an extra ele-
phant arrow. Two of the men, supposed to be the
best hunters of the tribe, preceded me, and we ad-
vanced silently and swiftly toward the bushes, where
these people assured me they had both heard and
seen elephants. After going on for an hour and a
half, we entered the bush, and there saw fresh signs
of elephants. Then we stopped.

The country for some miles from the base of the
Loroghi range is covered with dense scrub, thorns,
and bush, which is intersected by elephant trails run-
ning in all directions. These paths are wide under
foot, and the marching is not bad; but at a height
of three feet from the ground the bushes reach over
and meet, thus making progress in an upright position
impossible; one must creep along almost on one’s
knees. The naked savages pass silently, and with suf-
ficient rapidity, but I, with my thick boots and can-
vas coat, could not move without noise and difficulty.
Owing to the dense growth of bushes, it was impos-

362 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

sible to see more than twenty or thirty feet from
where one stood, in any direction but skyward; so the
natives appeared to be guided more by sound than
sight.

Elephants break the bushes when feeding, occasion-
ally trumpeting softly through their trunks, thereby
making a sound similar to the loud purr of a cat; so
that a hunter possessed of a keen sense of hearing
can fix the position of the brute by sound, and need
not depend upon sight. Unfortunately my sense of
hearing is none too acute; so I depended entirely
upon the two natives, who preceded me, to show me
the whereabouts of the elephant. After informing me
of the position of the brutes, and satisfying themselves
that I knew of their whereabouts, most of the Wan-
derobbo halted, and I was left with my two gun-bearers
and two guides. I had also taken with me Felix, the
fox-terrier, and his two puppies, the latter by this
time grown sufficiently to follow us on the march.
As soon as we came upon the fresh signs of ele-
phants, these three dogs had commenced to whine
and evince such excitement, that I left them in charge
of the Wanderobbo who remained behind, and pushed
on without them. We moved on steadily for half an
hour, when my guides suddenly stopped, their eyes
blazing with suppressed excitement, and pointed to a
small opening fifty feet away. There in the opening
I saw a good-sized elephant. When satisfied that I
had seen the elephant, my guides silently and swiftly
disappeared. It was standing broadside on, and all
but its head and ears and the highest portion of its
back was concealed by the thick growth. I was armed

vill TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 363

with a 577. I took careful aim at the outer edge of
the huge ear of the beast, and discharged my rifle.
As soon as the smoke cleared sufficiently to permit
me to get another sight, I fired the second barrel.
The sound of the report had scarcely died away, when
a dreadful crashing and trumpeting was heard, and
straight at me through the bush came—I knew not
what. I turned for another rifle, but both gun-bearers
had fled, and I was alone with an empty rifle. No,
not alone; for Felix, the fox-terrier, had by some means
escaped from the men who held him, and there stood
by my side, his ears pricked to attention, and his tail
trembling with excitement. All this occurred in a
few seconds, and I had scarcely realized my helpless
condition, when I saw five elephants rushing at me,
and not more than fifteen feet distant. I leaped to
one side, and in so doing pierced my arm and shoul-
der with some thorns, which gave me such pain that
I stopped, and expected that in a second I should be
trampled under foot. What was my surprise at this
moment to see Felix, fired with ardour for the chase,
dash straight at the foremost elephant, and, leaping
upon him, bite vigorously at some portion of his body,
all the while barking in his most vigorous manner.
The brutes at once halted, and with a scream of fright
turned sharply to the right, and—I was saved. I
had two extra cartridges in my pocket; but, as I had
expected to seize a freshly loaded rifle, I had not at
first attempted to place them in my weapon. Now
that I had time for thought, I slipped one in, and got
a shot at the head of the rear elephant, as it disap-
peared in the bush, not six feet from me: 1 do not

364 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

think sixty seconds elapsed between my first and
third shots. Had Felix not rushed at the elephants,
I think I am truthful in saying that I should have
been crushed to death. After a few moments, and
some vigorous shouting on my part, the two gun-
bearers turned up, full of excuses, which I accepted,
having no alternative.

After a short search I found that my two shots
had proved effective,
lying on its side, though not yet dead. As we ap-
proached it, it endeavoured to rise, and reached for us
with its trunk. As a precautionary measure, and

a: large female elephant was

also to end its misery, I seized a Mannlicher, which
one of my gun-bearers carried, and discharged it
point-blank at the forehead of the elephant. Its lie
fled.

It is supposed that a shot at the forehead of
an elephant cannot be attended with decisive re-
sults. Many men have told me that even a shot
from an eight-bore rifle has proved inadequate to
stop the rush of an elephant, when made at its fore-
head. However, I have met an English gentleman,
Mr. Frank Cooper, who had killed an elephant in
Africa with a .50 Winchester, shooting the animal
through the forehead; and the force of the bullet
was sufficient not only to penetrate the vast quantity
of bone which defends the elephant’s brain in front,
but after passing through this bone and the brain,
it shattered the rear wall of the brain-pan.

It took more than an hour to reassemble my scat-
tered men and the natives. According to their own
story, the Wanderobbo ran at least a mile upon

VIII TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 365

hearing the first shot. My Masai interpreter told
me he did not move, but added that on the next
occasion he would; for while standing at the edge
of the elephant path, he suddenly became aware that
a herd of elephants was approaching him at a tre-
mendous rate of speed. He at once threw himself
into the sharp thorn-bush on the side of the path,
braving the pain it inflicted rather than the onslaught
of the beasts. He managed to get perhaps three feet
from the path into the thick thorns, by the time the
leading elephant arrived at the place where he was
standing. There the elephant stopped, and began to
search for him with its trunk; and finally, having sat-
isfied itself of his whereabouts, reached for him. He
had his sandals in his hand; and being unable to
move on account of the thorns, as the trunk of the
elephant neared him, he instinctively held out the
sandals, which were promptly seized. The sandals
seemed to satisfy the curiosity of the beast; for hav-
ing taken them with its trunk, it dashed them to the
ground, and trampled upon them. Then with a
loud trumpeting of rage it passed down the path,
followed by its fellows, leaving Hassan (the inter-
preter) greatly terrified, and offering thanks to Allah
for his escape.

When the natives found I had killed a large ele-
phant, their joy knew no bounds. They one and all
dashed at it, and plunged their spears into its life-.
less carcass. They sang and danced upon it, and in
every possible manner testified their joy. After these
mirthful capers, the Leguinan of the Wanderobbo
said to me that one elephant was not sufficient for

366 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

the wants of his people, and he wished I would set
out at once and kill more; so I took five of their
number, and again went into the bush. We had not
been five minutes away from the spot where I had
just slain the elephant, and from which we could
hear shouts and all sorts of human noises, when I
was surprised to hear loud trumpeting not thirty feet
away from me. At the sound my five guides left
me, and I whispered to my gun-bearers that they
must stand by me.

We cautiously peered through the bush, and I could
see the outlines of an enormous male elephant, armed
with beautiful tusks, and standing broadside to me,
with his trunk raised high in the air, as if trying to
find us. I aimed directly at his shoulder, and fired;
then, waiting until the smoke cleared, I fired my sec-
ond barrel. Again the dreadful trumpeting and crack-
ing of bush. I could see nothing, but I hastened to
throw myself out of the path, and my example was
speedily followed by my gun-bearers. We had scarcely
done so, when seven elephants passed within one foot
of our prostrate forms. This was hot work, and I
began to think the game was not worth the candle.
Owing to the dense bush, I could not see more than
one beast at a time, but there always seemed to be
nearly six or seven. As soon as I fired, they dashed
rapidly down-wind, and, as one goes up-wind to get
elephants, I was always directly in their path. The
range is so close that there is not time to reload;
and even if one does reload, the brutes are upon one
ere aim can be taken and a shot fired. It is most
dangerous work, but exhilarating.

VIII TRAVELS [MN EASTERN AFRICA 367

When the elephants passed by, I went on, and
found plenty of blood, but no elephant. We searched
about in the bush, and finding no further signs I de-
cided to go farther and try again. My guides returned
in a moment, and were much disappointed at learning
that there was no meat for them; but upon my assur-
ance of more success another time, we again set out
—always, of course, up-wind. After a lapse of about
twenty minutes, we reached a place where the bush
was more open; and there I suddenly came upon a
herd of six elephants, standing in a line and placidly
feeding. I wished to kill the largest of the six, and,
in order to get a good shot at him, it was necessary
for me to make a slight change in my position. As
I was doing so, the entire herd became conscious of
my proximity, and charged down-wind, but fortunately
in single file. I had time to leap to one side, and
fire, but at such close range that the barrel of my
rifle touched the hide of the animal I shot at. There
was no apparent result; so, being tired out with the
work of the day, I returned to the first elephant we
had killed, and, taking the tusks, returned to camp,
which I reached after dark. The next morning after
dawn all the men of the Wanderobbo village who were
able to walk, together with seventeen donkeys, passed
our camp on their way to get the meat. The don-
keys carried curious saddles. They consisted of a net
like a snowshoe, made of strips of skin stretched on
an oval frame, one for each side. These were held
in place by straps, and between them was piled the
meat.

I followed them to the elephant, which by this time

308 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

had been entirely cut up by the natives who accom-
panied me on the previous day. They had built huge
fires, and worked the entire night. The Wanderobbo
eat all parts of the elephant except the skull—the
skin, bones, sinews, intestines, and all. The natives
had found another elephant dead, probably the one I
last fired at; so I had succeeded in getting two of
the four I had attempted to kill. The second ele-
phant had but small tusks.

Upon reaching the place where the Wanderobbo
had piled the meat taken from the carcasses of the
elephants, the women gave vent to pzeans of joy, and,
like hyenas, seized bits of the raw meat, which they
devoured with avidity. I took some guides, and again
went in search of elephants, but found none; and re-
turned to camp thoroughly tired out. From these
three days’ constant marching my feet were very sore;
so I spent forty-eight hours in rest.

From our camp at Sayer we had taken but suff-
cient food to last two days; so I was now forced to
subsist entirely upon bits of elephant heart, which I
found to be quite a delicacy, when roasted upon the
end of a sharp stick. All other parts of the elephant
I have tried, and all but this portion I found unpala-
table; but the heart is a fine morsel, and reminded
me somewhat of a mince pie.

On the evening of the second day of my rest, the
Leguinan of the Wanderobbo village appeared with
some of his followers, and said that on the following
day he would take me to a place near by, full of
elephants, which were not nearly so difficult to shoot
as those we had last taken. He frankly told me

VII TRAVELS [N EASTERN AFRICA 369

that his people never for a moment thought of ven-
turing into the place where they had cheerfully taken
me a few days before. They said that, owing to the
thorns, their retreat had been almost impossible; but
at the place where they were about to take me there
were very few thorns, and the cover was so thick
that one might approach quite close to the elephants
without being discovered. My experiences in ele-
phant hunting had not been such as to render me
very confident of my ability either to kill or to escape
those I had not wounded; so with anything but
a light heart, I agreed to set out in search of further
game. These poor people seemed so much in need
of meat that I could not resist their importunate
entreaties for assistance in procuring it.

One of the men who came with the Leguinan said
that he had been shooting with Lieutenant von
Héhnel two days before, and that Lieutenant von
Hohnel had had a very narrow escape. The story
of the event was as follows: he had shot a fine cow
elephant three times in the head, and it dropped.
He advanced toward it, and when he was quite close,
the elephant, with a scream, arose and charged. He
presented his rifle, which the elephant seized, and
broke to pieces, Lieutenant von Hodhnel escaping by
a miracle. The infuriated beast then seized and de-
stroyed two of the water-bottles, which the frightened
porters had dropped. The elephant, having satisfied
itself with this revenge, made off.

At the time I heard the story, I doubted its truth,
but the narrator swore to its credibility.

On Sunday, August 20, I set out with five Wan-
2B

370 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

derobbo. We marched one hour; then I called a
halt, as our guides said their brethren were en route
to Bugoi from their village. In half an hour they
appeared, and then we all entered the bush together.
This place was called Bugoi, and is situated upon the
banks of the stream which eventually flows past
the Wanderobbo village. Close to the borders of
the stream the valley was quite clear of bush; else-
where there was a dense growth, but, happily, free
from thorns. This place is the favourite hunting-
ground of the Wanderobbo. The thick cover enables

DONKEYS CROSSING DRY RIVER-BED

them to get close to their quarry, while the absence
of thorns makes flight painless and easy. Where I
hunted a few days before, it is deemed by the na-
tives too dangerous for any but the most expert;
but of this fact the natives thoughtfully did not
apprise me until after I had been there.

We walked to a small savannah, and then sat
down to watch for signs. Soon, with the aid of my
glasses, I saw a fine bull about rooo yards away.
He was in the midst of a dense, growth, and the
wind was very shifty and treacherous, so that I felt
uncertain how to approach him. Upon telling the

VIII TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 371

Leguinan that I had seen an elephant, he stood and
prayed to Ngai that the day’s operations might be
crowned with success. A few of his followers joined
him in prayer; but most of them tried their spears
on imaginary tuskers, thrusting them into the air
and recovering bravely. The prayer finished, I went
forward with fifteen men, while the rest disappeared
in the bush. At the end of an hour, I came in sight
of a good-sized bull, standing upon the steep edge
of the slope of Loroghi.

There was a valley about 500 yards in width between
my position and that of the elephant, and, the wind
being so shifty and uncertain, I felt that approach in
his direction would be attended with unsatisfactory
results. I knew the Mannlicher would carry 500
yards with accuracy, and, as the elephant was in full
view, standing with his back towards me, I got a very
fair shot. The bullet struck him, for he sharply turned
in our direction, raised his trunk, and then quickly
lowered it to the ground; which signified that he
had become aware of our position, and was prepared
to charge.

I have never seen an elephant charge with its trunk
in the air. If the trunk is poised in the air, it indi-
cates that the animal is not quite certain of the where-
abouts of its tormentors; but when satisfied of the
direction in which it must go, the trunk is lowered,
and the charge follows.

As this bull lowered his head, I gave him a shot
in the forehead, which knocked him down. He rose
again, and charged straight at us. I had great hopes
of getting him, and endeavoured to induce the natives

372 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

to remain quiet until he should again come in sight;
for, as he had disappeared in the intervening valley,
I could not catch another glimpse of him until he had
reached a point almost upon us. But the eagerness
of the natives was so great that they were unable to
control themselves. Upon seeing him approach, they
set up a cry as to which portion of him each of them
should get. This frightened the elephant, and he
turned off, and did not reappear. I went after him,
and saw more elephants at a great distance; but was
unable to get near them, as the other Wanderobbo
were yelling all about us in the bush, and they suc-
ceeded in making all the animals take to flight.

I was able with the aid of my glasses to see and
count eighty elephants in view at one time. I do not
know whether the elephant is disappearing with great
rapidity from other parts of the world; but I think I
am safe in asserting that it will be many years before
they are driven from the shelter of the bush near
Loroghi.

Before leaving camp in the morning, I had instructed
my men to move it to the neighbourhood of the Bugoi
stream. Just before sunset I found them encamped
near a village of the Wanderobbo, who had moved
farther up-stream, in the hope of being nearer the
elephants they felt confident I should kill. On my
way to the village I heard that some of the Wande-
robbo had succeeded in killing two elephants. When
this fact was announced to their women, they set up
a scream of joy, and danced about with delight. The
Wanderobbo who live upon elephant meat have no
fixed abode, but rear habitations in any place where

VIII TRAVELS IM EASTERN AFRICA 373

they are likely to find elephants, and move from one
place to another, as the wanderings of the herd of
elephants may dictate.

Up to this time I had met three types of Wan-
derobbo: (1) Those that lived near the plains, and
subsisted upon antelopes, zebras, and giraffes; (2) those
that hid upon the sides or tops of mountains, and
lived upon honey and such game as they caught in
their traps; (3) those at Bugoi, who had no beehives,
and lived entirely upon the flesh of elephants, which
they sometimes entrapped, but oftener succeeded in
slaying with their spears.

The Wanderobbo, as a race, are a low type of natives.
The true Wanderobbo has nothing to commend him;
but, owing to the fact that some Masai and Berkenedji
have mixed with them, a cross has been produced,
which is much more vigorous and better developed
physically than the pure strain of Wanderobbo. Whom
the Wanderobbo sprang from will probably never be
definitely known; but much evidence points to the
opinion that they were the original inhabitants of
what is now called Masai Land. As the Masai in-
creased in numbers, and extended the sphere of their
influence, they slew or drove to the mountain tops
all the former possessors of the soil. From the fact
that the Wanderobbo prefer starvation to cultivation,
one might suppose they were a pastoral people, and
unaccustomed to tilling the soil.

All of them with whom I came in contact spoke
the Masai language; but it was stated by my Masai
interpreters that the Wanderobbo had a language of
their own, which they used among themselves. This

374 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

I cannot vouch for. Love of freedom and _ laziness
are the only apparent inducements which cause the
Wanderobbo to lead their precarious life. They im-
pressed me as being more like wild animals than
men. Restraint of the slightest nature they could
not brook; and although they readily admitted the
advantages accruing from cultivation of the soil, they
flatly refused to have anything to do with such work,
notwithstanding the fact that I offered them hoes
and seeds, and told them how to plant and cultivate.

Later, during my journey, two of these people at-
tached themselves to my caravan, and from them I
gathered some idea of their mode of life. In the
rainy season, when the bees make no honey, and the
able-bodied men are unable, on account of the moist-
ure, to use their bows with effect, they have but one
means left for supporting life. This is, for some one
to climb a tree, or ascend some high hill, and there
watch for vultures. When they see these birds cir-
cling about and finally descending to the earth, word
is sent to the village, and all sally forth in search of
food. They will eat anything in the shape of meat,
be its state of putrefaction what it may; and I was
told that they frequently battled with hyenas and
vultures for the remains of the carcass of some beast,
slain by a hon or other animal, long after an ordi-
nary human being would be willing to approach
within 100 yards of it.

From the Masai who had settled among the Wan-
derobbo I gathered the following information con-
cerning the dispersal of the Masai, after the plague
had destroyed their flocks and herds. When_ the

VIII TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 375

cattle began to die, those villages which first suffered
from this cause banded and raided their more fortu-
nate neighbours. Thus there sprung up an inter-
necine war, which destroyed nearly all the warriors
inhabiting the country of the Masai north of Kili-
manjiro. According to my informants, there were
but two bands of Masai at that time in all this terri-
tory. One of these two bands, by far the larger,
occupied a place called Kinangop, lying to the north
of Lake Naiwasha. This division of the Masai was
called the Leburego. They had proved most success-
ful in the wars following upon the death of the cattle,
and at this time they had sufficient sheep and goats
to support life.

Another party of Masai, occupying three villages,
and numbering perhaps 4000 in all, settled with the
Kythere people, who inhabited a portion of the coun-
try lying between the Jombeni range and Mount
Kenya. The latter, besides having sheep and goats,
sustained life by small cultivation of the soil, and
were fast becoming merged in the people whom they
joined. However, they retained their racial charac-
teristic of ferocity to such an extent that traders
dared not visit them. With these Masai at Kythere
were two bands of Wanderobbo, who were very suc-
cessful elephant-hunters. From the fact that they
had no opportunity of disposing of their ivory to
traders, they were at this time supposed to have vast
stores of ivory in their possession, and likely to prove
a prize to the first visiting caravan.

Besides these two large bands of Masai, numbers
of women and little children, who had survived the

376 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

famine, joined the people on the Jombeni range (not-
ably the Wamsara and Janjy), and some had merged
themselves with the inhabitants of Kikuyu and
Ukambani. I was struck by the fact that the vast
plains of the Leikipia plateau were deserted by all
but a few bands of Wanderobbo, who wandered over
them in search of game. Owing to the good pastur-
age afforded by this country, it seems probable to me
that when the Rendile learn that it is uninhabited,
they may be tempted to move thither with their
camels; for the place they occupied at this time was
a mere desert in comparison with the Leikipia plateau.

From the Wanderobbo whom I had seen I gath-
ered by a rough estimate that the total number of
their tribe inhabiting the country between the head-
waters of the Mackenzie River and the Lorian
Swamp and the Loroghi range could not exceed 500.

From the reports of travellers who had visited the
Masai before the dispersal of that tribe, various esti-
mates of the total number of Masai had been made,
some stating, as the result of their information, that
there were at least 2,000,000. I very much doubt if,
even when they were most numerous, the total num-
ber of Masai ever exceeded 200,000 to 300,000; and
these figures do not seem to me a _ low estimate.
Now that the British occupy the Uganda, and a rail-
way is in course of construction between that coun-
try and the coast, which passes through Masai Land,
and will undoubtedly prove a great check upon the
marauding instincts of these people, I think it likely
that not many years will pass before they lose their
present characteristics and are forced to settle down

VIII TRAVELS [NV EASTERN AFRICA 307.

and cultivate the soil, like the other and less inter-
esting natives inhabiting East Africa.

The day following my last hunt at Bugoi I re-
turned to Sayer. Lieutenant von Hohnel had already
returned from an unsuccessful shooting expedition.
The adventure related to me by one of the natives
I found to have this shadow of foundation. Lieu-
tenant von Hohnel had seen one large cow elephant,
and had shot her twice in the head with a Mann-
licher; but each time he aimed at her she moved
her head so that he was unable to reach the brain.
Having received two shots, the elephant charged
directly at Lieutenant von Hohnel, who was attended
by five men. These men scattered in all directions,
one of them dropping his tin water-bottle, while the
elephant, after stepping upon it, and trying to destroy
it, passed on, and disappeared in the bush.

Although Lieutenant von Hohnel and I had at
this place killed four elephants, we had not thoroughly
satisfied the hunger of the poor Wanderobbo; so we
decided to take one more trip, and, if possible, kill
sufficient game to satisfy their wants for at least a
short time; after which we were to set out for the
north.

During my absence Lieutenant von Hohnel had
discovered the source of the Sayer River to be a
small lake called Lilley, situated on the top of the
Leikipia plateau.

CHAPTER: Ex

On August 23, Lieutenant von Hdédhnel and _ J,
with twenty-five men and six donkeys, went to the
top of the Loroghi range, called by the natives
Subugo (forest) The Leikipia plateau stretches
in a southwesterly direction as far as the eye can
see, and is covered with high, waving grass, dotted
at intervals with bushes. This place seemed to afford
perfect pasturage for cattle, sheep, and goats, and I
have no doubt that, at some day, owing to the healthy
climate consequent upon its high altitude, it will be
used for that purpose by Europeans. Even in_ the
heat of the day the air on the Leikipia plateau is
cool, while at night the thermometer falls to forty-
three Fahrenheit.

Upon reaching the Leikipia plateau we camped,
and the following morning set out for Subugo. In
the early hours the forest seemed all but inviting.
As we neared it, we saw many indications of the
presence of elephants and rhinoceroses; hence we
felt confident of laying in a good supply of meat.

At II AM. we reached a place where the forest
became interesting in appearance, the trees being for
the most part what are termed in this country
Morio. This is a tree which very much resembles

a holly bush, and from its sap the natives procure
378

CHAP. IX TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 379

some of their poison. Among other trees growing
here, there was an excellent variety of cedar, growing
very straight, with trunks sufficiently thick to have
planks sawn therefrom.

About noon we heard a rhinoceros charging up-
wind at us, but.1t did not .reach the caravan. The
cover was so thick that we did not see the animal
until it was quite upon us. Although this rhinoceros
did no damage, the fact that it charged so near us
caused Lieutenant von Hohnel to seize his rifle and
carry it himself, contrary to his usual custom of en-
trusting the weapon to his gun-bearer. Five minutes
later we came upon fresh elephant tracks; the ground
was strewn with small branches, from which the bark
had been stripped, and in the soil were many marks of
ponderous feet. This discovery added caution to our
movements, and we pressed on as rapidly and _ noise-
lessly as possible. A few moments passed, when
suddenly I heard upon my left the snort of another
rhinoceros. I looked sharply in the direction from
which the sound came, and saw one of these animals
coming through the bush. It was not coming directly -
at me, but appeared to turn off toward the rear of the
caravan, so I did not fire, being loath to disturb
the elephants which we knew to be near. Thinking
the beast had passed harmlessly, I continued on my
way. Soon my attention was arrested by loud shouts
from the rear, and fierce barks from Felix and his two
puppies. I stopped a moment and looked back, but
could see nothing, owing to the thick bush. In an
instant, however, I heard the snorts of the rhinoceros
coming in my direction. Presently there emerged

380 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

from the bush my tent-boy, Sururu, and one of the
Wanderobbo guides, their eyes starting out of their
heads, while they were running as hard as they could,
and endeavoured to dodge behind trees. In a second
the rhinoceros dashed past me, but so quick was its
rush by and disappearance in the bush that I had not
time to shoot it. Irritated by the noise and trouble it
caused, as well as its near proximity, I plunged into
the bush after it. As I sighted it, standing about
twenty feet away under a cedar tree, I heard my name
called in loud and anxious tones by Karscho, my gun-
bearer. He said: “Turn back, master; Lieutenant
von Hoéhnel is killed.” I at once turned back and
followed Karscho, who led me to a spot under a tree
about fifty yards away, where lay the apparently life-
less body of my friend and companion.

Upon hearing the rhinoceros approach, Lieutenant
von Hohnel, who, had he not had his rifle in his hand,
would have contented himself by dodging it, faced the
rush. He saw it approaching him, and waited before
firing until the brute presented a fair mark; but as the
animal approached, the men with him became nervous
and ran across his line of fire, which prevented him
from shooting. Being unable to shoot, on account of
the men, and the beast having arrived at close quarters,
he attempted to step aside and hide behind a tree;
but was unable to do so, for he found this point of
vantage already taken by two or three of the men.

Even when he discovered that he was unable to
obtain shelter, Lieutenant von Hodhnel hesitated to fire,
fearing that he would alarm the elephants of which we
were in search. He had already had much experience

IX TRAVELS [NM EASTERN AFRICA 381

with rhinoceroses,.and being accustomed to their mad
rush, was perfectly cool when charged by one. To this
coolness and temerity his accident was undoubtedly
due. Even when the rhinoceros was upon him, he
trusted to his agility, and hoped to leap to one side
and avoid the rush of the animal; but he then noticed
that the thick bush would prevent such action; so he
quickly changed his mind, and decided to fire. In
raising his gun to his shoulder, it caught in the branch
of a tree, and at that moment the nose of the rhinoc-

Uy i Mad f Ih
Gye Ws 7 a a if

as

Crass &

IN TROUBLE WITH OUR DONKEYS

eros struck him in the stomach, and bore him to the
earth. Having thrown him down, the beast trampled
upon him, and struck him once with its nose and once
with its horn.

Fortunately the horn was short, but it was long
enough to make a ghastly wound in Lieutenant von
Hohnel’s thigh, and chip off a bit of the thigh-bone.
While he was lying under the beast, the men who
accompanied him seemed prostrated to such a degree
that they were unable to shoot. One man, however,
Herella, a Soudanese, who, upon the approach of the
rhinoceros, had nimbly climbed a cedar tree, shouted

382 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

from the coigne of vantage where he was safely
ensconced, ‘“‘Dereb! Dereb!” (Shoot! Shoot!); but the
man to whom he shouted was apparently unwilling to
divert the attention of the rhinoceros to himself, and
so neglected to take advantage of the opportunity.

Almost as soon as Lieutenant von Hohnel was
knocked down, Felix and the two other fox terriers
ferociously attacked the rhinoceros, and by their barks
and the vigour of their attack finally succeeded in
diverting the attention of the animal toward them-
selves; thereby, without doubt, saving Lieutenant von
Hohnel’s life. The rhinoceros, by that time thor-
oughly aroused, having left Lieutenant von Hohnel,
charged the men behind the trees; and catching
sight of poor Sururu, who had had a prior and pain-
ful experience with these animals, thundered in his
direction, but he managed to elude it. Fortunately
the beast did not succeed in doing further damage;
but it is a matter of the deepest regret to me that it
escaped with its life, and is now doubtless lying in
wait for some other unfortunate traveller.

Upon reaching Lieutenant von Hohnel, I found
him still conscious; in fact, he assured me that he
was able to walk. In that he was mistaken. We
carried him to a soft spot under a tree, stripped him
of his clothing, and attended to his wounds as well as
our slight means and skill would permit. I told my
men to take their cloths and make a hammock. This,
for a moment, they actually refused to do. Probably
they were yet dazed by the recent occurrence, and
thereby deprived of that mite of reason which in their
calm moments they possess.

IX TRAVELS INV EASTERN AFRICA 383

The reader can well imagine my feelings -upon
realizing the extent of the injuries sustained by Lieu-
tenant von Hohnel. Not only were we hundreds of
miles from the coast and a doctor, but most of our
store of medicine was at Daitcho, and what we had
with us was barely sufficient for a few days’ treatment
-of his wound. My skill in surgery was very meagre;
and although Lieutenant von Hohnel (despite the
acute pain he was suffering) was able to direct in
what manner I should bind and dress the wound, I
was overcome with a sense of my impotence, and felt
that it was the irony of fate that my friend’s life
should in great measure depend upon my _ unskilled
treatment of his wound. Of course, nothing remained
but to remove Lieutenant von Hodhnel as quickly as
possible back to Daitcho. I feared the wound would
prove fatal, but he bore up so wonderfully, that it
seemed well worth trying to get him to the coast.

That night we camped within a stone’s throw of
where we had camped the preceding night — but
under what changed conditions! When we left this
spot in the morning, our men had left their camp-fires
burning (contrary to orders). Fanned by the breeze,
these started a prairie fire, and for thousands of yards
around the spot the earth was black and charred.
Far across the desert a wall of flames could be seen
dancing in the twilight. It was on this charred
ground near the Sayer River that we pitched our
camp that night. Everything was done to make
Lieutenant von Héhnel as comfortable as_ possible;
but with our rude equipment his sufferings were but
little allayed by the care and attention we bestowed.

384 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

The next day we reached our camp at Sayer. There
we were forced to wait several days, as Lieutenant von
Hohnel suffered too much from his wound to be moved.
During our stay at this place I sent Karscho and some
Soudanese daily in search of game, and their skill with
the rifle kept us supplied with fresh meat.

My feelings of grief at Lieutenant von Héhnel’s
accident were accentuated by the fact that I was per-
fectly aware that from that time the expedition would
be unable to profit from his skilled assistance; also, by
the further fact, that it would require months to trans-
port him to the coast. Notwithstanding this immense
drawback, I decided not to forego my plans of con-
tinuing the expedition; and with that purpose in view
when we set out from Daitcho, I left six of my men
behind in charge of a store of flour and _trading-
goods. These men received instructions to wait five
months, unless otherwise ordered. By the end of that
time I hoped to be able to profit by the presence of
this food station in that wilderness. A few light
showers of rain had fallen, and the Wanderobbo had
assured us that in this high country the Guaso Nyiro
was apt to rise at very short notice; so we decided
to cross it at once, while it was shallow, lest we
should be delayed by a rise in the river.

We left our camp on September 1, and reached
Daitcho on September 18. Reviewing in my mind
this march from Sayer to Daitcho, I can conjure up
nothing but a nightmare of continuous horror and
anxiety. The anxiety was occasioned by the suffer-
ings of my friend; the horror was caused by the fact
that during this entire march, from Sayer until we

IX TRAVELS [IN EASTERN AFRICA 385

reached Daitcho, all the rhinoceroses in East Africa
seemed to have clustered about our pathway, and to
have religiously devoted all their attentions and ener-
gies to charging us as frequently as possible.

On this journey we marched in the following order.
In front, at a distance of 100 yards, I with Karscho
my gun-bearer cleared the road of these beasts; then
came two Soudanese, who were good shots; then the
porters. Following these, and bringing up the rear,
borne upon the shoulders of four men, lying in a lit-
ter, and surrounded by a body-guard of six of the
best shots in the caravan, who had orders, in case a
rhinoceros charged, never to desert their master, came
Lieutenant von Hohnel.

The country over which our path near the Guaso
Nyiro lay was close to the stream, and varied in char-
acter from small, grassy savannahs covered with tall
acacia to vast stretches of thorny bush. For some
reason the rhinoceroses had left the plains, and gath-
ered near the banks of the river. From the time we
left Sayer until we arrived at Daitcho, I saw more
than 100 rhinoceroses. Though not more than twenty-
five charged the caravan, the proximity of the others
kept my nerves pon a continued stretch. Often, de-
spite my care and watchfulness, I would pass by one
of these brutes, which would reserve its charge until
the appearance of Lieutenant von Hohnel and his lit-
ter. I would be made aware that something had hap-
pened by hearing a fusilade of shots, and looking back
would see my men throwing down their loads and
running in all directions.

One of these charges proved fatal. It was in the

2-C

386 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

early morning; the sun had just appeared above the
horizon, and our path lay through a small opening
in the bush, perhaps ten acres in extent. We were
in need of meat, and seeing a giraffe in front I fired
a shot at it from my Winchester. The report awoke
two rhinoceroses taking a morning nap, not fifty feet
to the left of the caravan, and in close proximity to
the porters. In a moment loud cries of ‘Faro! Faro!”
(Rhinoceros!) were heard; and looking back I saw
my men scattering in all directions, but no rhinoceros.
Soon from among the mass of my men I saw one of
their number shot up into the air to the height of
twenty feet, and presently there emerged from the
crowd a rhinoceros with horn lowered to the earth.
He first viciously charged a large wooden packing-
case, which lay in his path; and having smashed that
he tossed to one side a tusk of ivory weighing eighty-
six pounds. These, however, were but diversions, his
latent intent being to overtake two of my fattest por-
ters, who were running, yelling, perspiring, and puffing
in front of the infuriated beast. Owing to the mass-
ing of my men I was unable to shoot until these two
fleeing negroes had passed within a few feet of me,
and the rhinoceros was almost upon them. I gave
him a shot from my Winchester; it seemed to have
no effect but to cause him to make a perceptible gain
upon my men. His horn appeared to be within a few
inches of them, when a second and more fortunate
shot from my rifle broke his fore leg, and brought him
to the ground. He fell just three paces from where
I stood. Not knowing where I had struck him, and
seeing him fall, I thought he was dead; but when I

IX TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 387

approached him, he rose on his hind legs, and sup-
ported himself with his head, madly snorting all the
while. Seeing he could—not move, I. left. him, and
ran back to see what had happened in the rear of
the caravan. The men in charge of Lieutenant von
Hohnel’s_ litter reported that the other rhinoceros
had passed within a few feet of them, being diverted
from them by one of the porters the rhinoceros had
elected to pursue, but luckily did not overtake.

The poor fellow who had been tossed into the air
received a hideous wound in the buttocks, and as he
lit upon his head when he fell to the earth, the hard
soil had broken away his entire scalp. He lived but
twenty-six hours after this mishap.

A propos of this man’s death, I will relate an inci-
dent which shows the weak degree of affection the
Zanzibari exhibit even toward near relatives. The
wounded man, a Manyema (a cannibal tribe on the
Congo), was a slave of Tippoo Tib, and had joined
my force at Zanzibar with two of his brothers, also
slaves. I naturally concluded that his brothers would
take more interest in his welfare than would other
porters; so I instructed them to make a hammock,
and carry him between them, slung from a _ pole.
After a few hours of this work, they said it was far
better to let their brother die than fatigue them with
carrying him. They added that it was absolutely
God’s order that he should die, and they were greatly
annoyed by the trouble their brother caused them on
the march.

On another occasion, while passing through a very
thick bush, a rhinoceros appeared from behind a

388 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

large ant-hill, within ten feet of where I stood, and
charged directly at me. At the time, I did not have
my rifle in my hands, and so I satisfied myself by
jumping to one side, and allowing the animal to pass
on. He charged straight at the portion of the cara-
van just behind me. In a moment I had seized my
rifle, and sent shot after shot into his receding form.
As he neared the porters, they, having heard my
shots and being on their guard, received him with a
volley from their carbines. This, however, did not
turn him; he charged on and on, until finally slain
by Lieutenant von Hohnel’s body-guard, within ten
feet of his litter.

By this time, owing to the frequency and _ results
of these rhinoceros charges, the men were completely
demoralized. At the crack of a twig or the cry of
a bird they would throw down their loads, and clam-
ber with agility into a bush. On several occasions
the porters detailed to bear Lieutenant von Hohnel,
allowed his litter to fall to the ground in their
eagerness to escape. At night, our camp was filled
with murmurs; the men said a “shaitan” (devil) was
evidently following the caravan, and would not be
appeased, until every one of us had been killed. I
could hear them say to one another that the presence
of a dying man like Lieutenant von Hohnel in a
caravan would certainly incur disaster; it was much
better to stop until he died; and then, perhaps, all
trouble would cease.

One night we were encamped near the river, and
all of us, with the exception of the two Soudanese
on guard, were sound asleep. Suddenly from the

IX TRAVELS INV EASTERN AFRICA 389

opposite bank of the river (at that point wide and
shallow) the fierce snort of a rhinoceros was_ heard,
and soon my camp was a scene of the wildest confu-
sion: men, crying to their far-off mothers for help,
stumbled over one another in their frantic. efforts to
get behind or up trees. Although I had my rifle in
hand, I was unable to shoot, through fear of winging
some of my scampering porters. The rhinoceros did
not charge through and at once leave the camp; not
he; stamping on one of the camp-fires seemed to
amuse him. Having satisfied his curiosity, or what-
ever else prompted him to pay us this nocturnal visit,
he moved on with a snort, and disappeared in the
bush.

Not ,only did the country seem to abound with
rhinoceroses, but lons also claimed the place as their
habitat. The latter, however, gave us no _ trouble,
much to my disappointment, as I had longed to get
a fair shot at one.

On one occasion I saw three very large and beau-
tifully maned lions stalk into a growth of bush about
200 yards from where I stood, but I was unwilling to
stop the caravan in order to pursue them. On an-
other occasion we were encamped upon a perfectly
bare spot (fifty or sixty acres in extent), and the
ground, covered with sulphate of magnesium, gleamed
white in the starlight. I was sitting up in a chair one
night while at this camp, watching Lieutenant von
Hohnel, who at the time seemed very low and suffer-
ing a great deal, when I heard one of the Soudanese
night-watch fluently blaspheming in Arabic. I shouted
to him, and inquired the cause of his strange oaths;

390 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

and he replied, “ Assad” (Lion). I leaped to my feet
and ran toward him, just in time to see a lion can-

tering off into the darkness. The Soudanese said that
for an hour or so he had heard the deep breathing of
one of these beasts, but for some time was unable
to find the whereabouts of the animal, till at length
in the darkness he distinguished the flaring eyes of
the lion turned towards him, at a distance of fifty or
sixty feet. Not knowing I was awake, nor wishing
to disturb the camp, he contented himself with hurl-
ing stones and curses at the animal; and these, to-
gether with the sound of my voice and feet, as I ran
toward the watch, were sufficient to frighten the lion
away.

One of the few amusing occurrences which happened
to relieve the dreary monotony of the continued nerv-
ous strain to which I was during this time subjected,
was the following. Early one morning I came upon
a fine water-buck standing fifty or sixty yards from
the river, and not many more from me. We sighted
one another simultaneously, and the animal broke for
the neighbouring bush — not, however, before he had
received a shot in the hip from my rifle. At once
Felix and the two puppies bounded after him in full
cry. The bush was so thick that I could not see
them, but I could hear their shrill barks, and the
cracking of the bush, as the water-buck dashed through
it. Presently he came straight at me, his horns lying
along his back, and the three dogs at his heels. The
sight was so interesting, that I stayed my hand. On.
he dashed, and plunged into the river, where the dogs
followed him. The Guaso Nyiro at that point was

IX " TRAVELS [N EASTERN AFRICA 391

narrow, and in consequence the current was very strong.
The antelope crossed to the other bank, and then
stood at bay, endeavouring to strike the dogs with his
fore feet and horns. He cut two of them slightly, but
this in no degree abated their ardour; so, fearing the
dogs might get injured, I at length despatched him
with a shot in the brain.

It was only in the early morning or late afternoon
that the dogs proved of any service in hunting. While
the sun was blazing hot, all their energies seemed
expended in keeping up with the caravan; and even
if a rhinoceros was killed within a few yards of them,
they took no interest in the event. But when the
air was cool, they were most useful in chasing game
of any sort. On one occasion just after sunrise they
caught sight of a rhinoceros ‘standing at a distance
of 200 yards from our path, and were after him at
full speed, barking vigorously, and snapping at his
legs. The beast knew not what to do, in order to
escape his little tormentors, and so kept turning round
and round. At length Felix managed to seize one
of his ears, to which he clung tenaciously. The rhi-
noceros then began a series of rapid revolutions for
the purpose of shaking off the dog, but Felix held
on like grim death; although at times by the swift
motions of the rhinoceros his body was swung at right
angles from perpendicular. As the attention of the
beast was monopolized by the dogs, I was able to
approach as close as I wished, and I despatched him
with a shot in the heart. The only animal which filled
my dogs with timidity was the lion. If we crossed
the track of one of these beasts, the little dogs would

392 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT * . cuap.

run to me, drooping their tails, and evincing every
indication of terror.

Once we had a little adventure with a group of
dog-faced baboons. We first heard them barking, and
finally came in sight of them, running along for all
the world like school children on a holiday. The
young ones were playing together, carefully watched by
their elders, who preserved the most staid demeanour.
Upon catching sight of them, the dogs rushed at the
band in a furious manner. The young ones fled, but
two or three old gentlemen with bushy whiskers and
benignant eyes seated themselves upon their hams,
and gazed unruffled at the enemy. The dogs dashed
on, but their barks became less determined, and their
steps more cautious as they neared, and realized the
dignity of the animals they were to attack. These
made no sign, but calmly awaited their charge. Hav-
ing reached a point within fifteen feet of them, the
courage of the dogs seemed to ooze rapidly from them.
Frightened perhaps by the steady and_ philosophic
stare with which the apes regarded them, they turned
tail, and with crestfallen manner retreated to the
caravan.

While marching along the Guaso Nyiro River, and
at a point near the ford, we fell in with a party of
100 Wanderobbo, who were encamped on the opposite
bank. Among them we were pleased to find our old
friend, Mayolo. He was fat, healthy, delighted to see
us, and a father. His wife had presented him with
a bouncing boy, and the presents we had given him
permitted him to assume a position of great importance
in his village. He said that after he had left Lieu-

IX TRAVELS [NV EASTERN AFRICA 393

tenant von Hohnel at Seran, having no food or water,
he wandered five whole days, until at length he fell
in with his people. While on his journey, he had
found water in holes; but food he had none, with the
exception of a few berries which he picked from
bushes on the desert.

At this point we rested one day, and there I watched
a party of Wanderobbo hunters preparing to set out
in search of meat. They had with them two donkeys,
one of which they had painted with white stripes,
in order to have it resemble a zebra. To the head
of the other donkey they had affixed a pair of oryx
horns, as a decoy for oryx beisa, in case they fell in
with any. Before starting, all the hunters took a dip
in the river, and then smeared their wet bodies with
mud and sand, in order to give themselves as much
as possible the colour of the earth. They must be
excellent -hunters... 1, learned. fromi my experiences
that the game in that part of the country was very
shy, owing to the continued hunting of the Wande-
robbo; yet, notwithstanding this shyness of game,
they were able to get close enough to an antelope
to kill it with one of their small arrows.

We had but one other event before reaching Daitcho
of sufficient interest to relate. After marching a long
distance, we had camped near one of the small afflu-
ents of the Mackenzie River. As darkness had set
in before we reached camp, we were unable to build a
zeriba of any sort, and for the first half-hour or so
all the men were busied gathering wood for fires.
Just as the fires were made, and Lieutenant von
Hohnel’s tent was pitched, two lions began to roar

394. THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

near the camp; so near that we could easily hear
the deep breath they would take after each roar.
There was a little moonlight, but not sufficient to
disclose their whereabouts. My men _ were very
anxious to procure water from the stream, but
seemed loath to set out in quest of it. We waited
at least half an hour, but although the lions did not
seem to approach any nearer, they continued their
magnificent roarings. I think they had just finished

We Atal

\\
ANN \\
| \\

UT

AT THE HEAD-WATERS OF THE MACKENZIE

a hearty meal, and so did not care whether they
warned us of their proximity or not. At length,
seeing that they were unlikely to leave us that night,
I got the men together, and told them to take sticks
and beat their water-bottles loudly, as they went to
the stream. They demurred, and said they preferred
to do without water that night. Aftér a little per-
suasion they set out, at first in a hesitating manner,
all of them beating their water-bottles vigorously, and
giving vent to half-hearted yells; but as they ad-
vanced, the chorus swelled sufficiently to drown the

IX TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 395

roars of the lons. They succeeded in getting their
water and returning to camp without mishap. On
their return, the cook-shouted to. them: “Watu
wapum bayu! Ugopa nini? [Foolish men! What
are you afraid of?] Have you not already had
sufficient proof of the white man’s medicine? These
lions may roar as long as they will, but their feet
are tied by the magic of master.’ As the men had
succeeded in getting their water without ill result,
they freely assented to the cook’s remarks, and shouts
of “Mganga!” (Medicine-man!) rang through the
camp.

The following day was the 18th of September, and
at four in the afternoon we succeeded in reaching
Daitcho. It was with a feeling of relief that I
caught sight of the Stars and Stripes waving over
our camp. Many times during the journey from
Sayer I had despaired of the ability of Lieutenant von
Hohnel to bear up until we reached Daitcho. Dur-
ing the entire journey his sufferings were very acute,
and they had not been lessened in any degree by
the rough manner in which we were forced to
transport him, nor by the poor quality of food he
had been forced to eat. Now, however, that we had
reached Daitcho, where we had medicines in plenty,
and where he could be nursed with greater care, I
hoped for his recovery; and, indeed, I indulged for a
few days the pleasing thought that he would recover
sufficiently to continue with me on the journey.
But this was not to be. Although for the first few
days after reaching Daitcho he seemed to quickly
recover his strength, a relapse set in, and it was made

396 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

perfectly clear to all of us that, if his life was to be
saved, he must be taken with all speed to some
place where he could receive the treatment of a
physician. The nearest one lived at a mission station
called Kibwezi, more that 200 miles distant; so
we decided that Lieutenant von Hdohnel should be
carried thither with all possible despatch.

During our absence from Daitcho, George had
continued to maintain the friendliest relations with
the natives. He had learned by experience that the
key to their friendship was an ample supply of meat;
and, being an excellent shot, he had spent at least
three days of each week on shooting-expeditions in
the vicinity of the camp. Although provided with a
577 express, he used for every species of game
a Mannlicher; and judging from the variety and
quantity of game he succeeded in killing, one is
tempted to come to the conclusion that the Mann-
licher can achieve more satisfactory results than any
other rifle. His bag had consisted of giraffe, hippo-
potamus, rhinoceros, lion, and several varieties of
antelope — animals both thick and thin skinned, large
and small, timorous and aggressive. Three of his
adventures are worthy of mention.

One morning just before dawn he was walking
along the banks of the Ura River, which at that
point were clad with a thick growth of a stunted
mimosa. He was in advance of his followers, and
marching carelessly through the bush, when he was
startled by a rhinoceros emerging from the river,
about forty feet distant and on his right. In the
bright light of midday the rhinoceros cannot see

IX TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 397

without difficulty; but in the early dawn, late after-
noon, or night, his sight is very keen. Upon seeing
George, this particular beast made for him.

A Mannlicher contains in its magazine five car-
tridges. George discharged two without checking the
onrush of the rhinoceros, and the animal was almost
upon him, ere a shot in the spine, just over its rear
horn, brought it to the ground at his feet, lifeless.
This animal had just fallen, when George’s attention
was attracted by the sounds of crashing bush on_ his
left, and through the leafless growth he could see an-
other rhinoceros, charging straight at him, about forty
feet away. He had not time to place more cartridges
in the magazine, but was fortunate enough to kill the
beast with a second and the last shot in his rifle.
From the place where he stood, when the animal
charged him, and from which he had not moved, he
was able, by stooping down, to place his hands upon
the heads of both the rhinoceroses; so close had they
come to him before death checked their rush.

I know of no double-barrelled rifle which has such
a record to its credit.

On another occasion, George had just killed two
antelopes, and reduced the number of cartridges in
his rifle to two, when his little party was charged by
a female rhinoceros, followed by its yearling offspring.
Two shots brought down the mother, and emptied
the rifle; when the parent’s death seemed to fire the
baby rhinoceros with a desire for vengeance. It made
straight at George. A yearling rhinoceros is not much
larger than a Shetland pony, and of but little greater
weight. Its nose is armed with but one horn, and

398 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

that not three inches long. This is the forward one;
the rear horn does not appear until the animal is
several years old. Owing to the size of this animal,
George treated its rush with more or less contempt,
and made no effort to get out of its way, until it had
nearly reached him. He then leaped to one side —
so did the little rhinoceros. Finding it pertinacious,
and determined to reach him, George took to his
heels. For ten minutes he sprinted up and down,
and dodged, as best he could, the determined charge
of the orphaned rhinoceros. During this diversion
George’s followers indulged in the heartiest and most
unsympathetic laughter at his expense; and although
he continued to shout lustily for a gun, none was
brought. At length, when he was panting for want
of breath, and momentarily expecting to be knocked
down by the little avenger, one of the men slipped a
rifle into his hand, with which he quickly brought
down his pursuer.

Another of his adventures resulted in the death of
a fine male lion; it was during the excursion upon
which he succeeded in killing the two rhinoceroses at
close quarters. The time was early morning, and he
was suddenly startled by seeing within a few feet of
him a lion and a lioness. They were standing and
facing him, but did not seem aggressively inclined.
He quickly brought the Mannlicher to his shoulder,
shot the male through the body, and it fell. The
lioness bounded off; George after it. He hunted
some time, but could find no traces of it. Upon
returning to the spot where lay the lion he had shot,
he found all his men safely ensconced in trees, at the

IX TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 399

foot of which the king of beasts stalked about, growl-
ing and sweeping his tail. A second shot deprived
the animal of life. George’s men told him that, for
a moment’ or, so after receiving the first shot; the
animal remained on the ground, apparently lifeless.
Suddenly they saw him rise to his feet; and, acting
upon this hint, they ascended the trees.

Examination disclosed the fact that the first bullet
had penetrated the entire length of the animal’s body,
but had failed to reach its heart; the second shot
successfully performed this mission. The paws of the
lion were as full of thorns as the back of a_ porcu-
pine of quills; which perhaps explains the fact that,
with the exception of a bunch of dried grass, its
stomach was entirely empty. The thorns in the
lion’s feet probably rendered it painful and difficult to
hunt game; hence the empty condition of its stom-
ach.

Upon my arrival at Daitcho, I. was much surprised
at not finding Hamidi returned from the coast with
the new men, donkeys, and stores I had ordered. He
was many weeks overdue. Knowing that his ex-
perience in African travel would enable him to reach
the coast and return without difficulty, particularly
as the country through which his path lay was not
dangerous, I began to suspect that in some way he
had played me false; and made up my mind to face
the future without other means than those I had at
hand.

As before stated, Lieutenant von Hohnel’s alarm-
ing condition necessitated his transport to a place
where he could receive the skilled attention of a phy-

400 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

sician. It was impossible to trust him to the care of
negroes while he was in his helpless condition; so
I sent George to accompany him as far as the mis-
sion station at Kibwezi. A journey from Daitcho to
Kibwezi would require at least a period of six weeks’
duration, and that time I proposed to spend in rest-
ing from my labours and in a study of the Masai
language.

For the quick transportation of Lieutenant von
Hohnel twenty-five men were needed. To this num-
ber I decided to add eighteen porters, who, from sick-
ness and other causes, had proved unfit for further
travel in the interior. Should George succeed in
bringing back the twenty-five able-bodied men from
Kibwezi, I should then have at my disposal 112
thoroughly hardened, more or less disciplined, and
experienced men; a force which I deemed sufficient
for a prolongation of my journey into the interior.
With Lieutenant von Hodhnel I went over the plans,
and we both came to the conclusion that it would
be possible for me, if attended by good fortune, to
reach either Kismayu (proceeding to that point via
Reschatt and the Juba River) or, under specially fav-
ourable circumstances, the Red Sea at Berbera. De-
prived of the skilled assistance of Lieutenant von
Hohnel, the difficulties would be greatly enhanced,
and the scientific results of such a journey would be
small in the extreme; nevertheless, I could not for a
moment permit myself to consider the expedition as
ended.

The difficulties and disappointments, which up to
this time had dogged our footsteps at every turn,

IX TRAVELS [IN EASTERN AFRICA 4o1

served more as a spur to increased effort, than as an
inducement to “throw up the sponge.” Our expedi-
tion had been carefully planned, and its preparations
had been made with such care and forethought as
Lieutenant von Hohnel and I had been able to be-
stow upon the subject. Far from unsatisfactory were

the results we had already
achieved; but, nevertheless,
I could not bring myself

a Wy

WENN
Aa Wi YEA Y | we
WW, MEE May i,
(ed i; KC Vy
/ f / A
Ne WANG

to admit that they were
commensurate with the

MEANS
Hy vant
Wy

WY ip ih

U
it

YLANs
it

NATIVE VILLAGE. WALL AND GATEWAY.

idea which had induced us to undertake the journey,
or with the pains and suffering we had undergone in
their accomplishment.

When Lieutenant von Hoéhnel was first wounded,
it required four men to carry him, but at this time
he was so wasted by his sufferings that two were

sufficient to bear him as quickly as the rate of cara-
2D

402 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

van marching required. We made for him a capital
swinging hammock from the midribs of a palm, which
grew on the banks of the stream near Daitcho.
These we split into lathe-lke strips, and wove _ to-
gether with rope, and then we stiffened this by cross-
pieces. This hammock was suspended from a pole
which was carried on the shoulders of two men.
Before Lieutenant von Hohnel’s departure a trading-
caravan arrived from the coast, bringing news of the
death of Seyd Ali, who had been the reigning Sultan
of Zanzibar at the time our caravan set out. This
news seemed to excite much interest among my men;
they gathered in groups, and I could overhear them
discussing the probabilities of the successor attempting
to free the Sultanate of Zanzibar from British influ-
ence. One and all they seemed to think the time
had come when the natives of Zanzibar should rise,
and, throwing off the European yoke, make Arab
influence paramount along the coast. Had I been a
stranger in Africa, it might have seemed odd to me
that these men, for the most part slaves, should feel
that their interests were in far greater degree with
their masters than on the side of the British, who
were ostensibly their friends and anxious to free
them from servitude; but I had associated sufficiently
with these people to feel that their sympathies were
firmly attached to Arab rule. They were willing to
accept any benefits which the European might bestow
upon them, but not for a moment did they wish to
adopt European habits and customs. For most of
them Arab rule meant a condition of servitude; at
the same time it also meant a condition of affairs

IX TRAVELS [IN EASTERN AFRICA 403

with which they were familiar and_ perfectly recon-
ciled.

I had frequently questioned my men whether they
preferred - being treemen .or slaves. The younger
members of the caravan, fascinated perhaps by the
novelty of the idea, preferred freedom; but when the
question was asked the older men, they shrugged
their shoulders, and said: “It is much better to have

| iN
Lae
iy je

Y Gi 4
yy ii Mf), ih, MB ifit
hyp TT OLE Hy}
| UN CA
CHM), NL iy
MA TD | y
i if
2 \

CAMP SCENE AT DAITCHO

our interests looked after by an Arab, who has in-
fluence with the government, than for us stupid
people to endeavour to manage our own affairs. Why,
when we are slaves, and get ill or in trouble, our
master feeds us, or gives us what assistance he can;
but if we were free, we should have to look after our-
selves, and it would depend entirely upon our own
efforts whether we died or lived. No; Allah made
the Arabs to be our masters; we like them and their
customs. Sometimes they beat us; sometimes we

404 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

are poor; but at least we never starve. Their reli-
gion is our religion. We like the M/zumgu (Euro-
pean), but his ways are strange; and when we work
for him, we must really work hard, in order to earn
our pay. The European works and is energetic;
and he expects us to do our share. On the contrary,
the Arab is a gentleman; he never works, is as lazy
in his habits as we are, and consequently is more
easily satisfied with what we do.”

Doubtless the above statements will strike Euro-
peans unacquainted with African character as being,
to say the least, extraordinary; but, in the opinion of
the negro himself, I fear the treatment of the African
question has been undertaken with too little regard
for the opinions and preferences of the very people
whose condition all efforts of those interested in the
movement are professedly intended to ameliorate. I
doubt if there could be found upon the whole east
coast of Africa a single negro, who in his heart is
conscientiously opposed to slavery, as it exists there.
Undoubtedly this state of affairs is lamentable, and
the consensus of civilized opinion seems to demand a
change. Europeans for centuries have been unaccus-
tomed to slavery; but even when in a condition of
servitude, all their feelings and energies rose in an
effort to cast off the yoke. This does not appear to
be the case of the negroes of East Africa, at least of
those with whom I have personally come in contact,
and who had no inducement to give me false infor-
mation.

At seven o'clock on the morning of Wednesday,
September 27,1 bade farewell to my friend, Lieuten-

IX TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 405

ant von Hohnel. As can well be imagined, our part-
ing was not a very cheerful one, for I felt anxiety as
to the probability of his reaching Europe alive. On
the other hand, he was depressed at the thought of
leaving me alone and unassisted, to consummate our
joint plans. After his departure I had with me sixty
Zanzibari, the Soudanese, and three Somali. I sent
Karscho with seven men to a food station I had made
at Sayer, for the purpose of informing the men I
had. lett there not to ‘expect me .until-at least three
months had elapsed. In returning, Karscho was to
bring back with him some loads of brass wire I had
left there, with which I expected at this time to
purchase donkeys at Daitcho.

When George left with Lieutenant von Héhnel’s
party, I instructed him to purchase what trading-
goods he could at the mission station. Although I
had almost given up hope of again seeing Hamidi,
still there was the ever-present possibility of his turn-
ing up with fresh men, donkeys, and goods. So I.
faced future events with a mind more or less calm,
filled with the hope that I should be permitted to
continue pushing my plans of exploration and dis-
covery.

On this day I was visited by my old friend, By-
kender. He had notified me of. his intended visit,
and I had prepared five or six quarts of honey wine,
with which to regale him during his stay. During
our absence from Daitcho, Motio had remained in
camp with George, and upon the arrival of Bykender,
I deputed Motio to share with me the duties of host,
at least as far as imbibing the honey wine was con-

406 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

cerned. These two savages appeared to enjoy them-
selves hugely. Long ere they finished the potions
I had prepared for them, they were hilarious in the
extreme; pledges of heartiest friendship were ex-
changed between them; and just before taking his
departure, Bykender lifted his voice in a_ tuneless
chant, which Motio translated for me, as vows of
the most fervent devotion to the European. I suppose
his friendship had been much kindled by the intoxi-
cating drink of which he had partaken; but if “in
vino veritas” has any truth whatever, Bykender’s
words proved that he was more than satisfied with
the treatment he and his people had received from
us. I felt convinced that if we had done nothing
else in the country, we had at least opened the door
to European influence, and that the next white visitor,
whoever he might be, would receive nothing at the
hands of these people but good treatment.

Not wishing to exhaust the store of flour we had
‘laid in for our further journey, I set out one day to
the Tana River for: the purpose of hippopotamus
shooting, in order to get food for my men in ex-
change for the meat. On the way I killed several
water-buck, and was greatly assisted in getting them
by the dogs, Felix and one of his puppies, the other
puppy having gone with Lieutenant von Hohnel to
the coast.

While en route to the Tana, I met a party of 300
Wakamba on their way to the Wanderobbo, for the
purpose of trading and hunting for ivory. It seems
that most of the men of the Wakamba, when harvest
is over, and their presence is no longer needed on

IX TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 407

the plantations, form -parties, and set off .imto the
desert; where, if they do not succeed in getting
ivory, they at least support themselves without reduc-
ing the store of grain they have laid up at home.
On leaving their country, each man takes with him
in a bag, which he carries upon his back, forty or
fifty pounds of millet flour. This small supply is
sufficient, when eked out by the game they shoot, to
support them for several months. They do not con-

SOUDANESE GUARD AT GATE

fine themselves to hunting and legitimate trade, but
if at any time they fall in with a party weaker than
themselves, possessed of wealth in any form, they
plunder it.

These Wakamba are wonderful travellers. I have
met some who stated that they had penetrated as far
north as Reschatt, and others who boasted of having
raided the Turcana. I think that, should a European
establish himself among them, he might under their
escort succeed in exploring a vast area of country in
a most satisfactory manner. Of course, it would be

408 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

necessary for such a European to settle among these
people for many years, and in a great degree to
adopt their customs. Their thorough knowledge of
the country to the north, and their willingness and
ability to undergo fatigue and privation, render them
the best possible escort.

With bow and arrow they are excellent shots; so it
would not be necessary to arm them with rifles.
Though they are averse to carrying loads for others
than themselves, they are capable of marching at an
astonishing rate of speed with thirty or forty pounds
upon their backs. Most of them have at one time
or another visited the coast for the purpose of selling
their ivory; many of them are acquainted with Swahili,
and all of them realize the power of the European.
I feel sure that at some time in the near future, after
the British become better acquainted with the capa-
bilities of this tribe, they will make use of its mem-
bers as troops; for there is no race in East Africa
like them for undergoing privations, for fighting, and
at the same time bearing upon their backs sufficient
food for a forty or fifty days’ march.

Att? A.M. September 30, I reached the Tana..~l
cautiously went in advance of my men, and saw the
heads of about thirty hippopotamuses above the sur-
face of the stream. I sought shelter behind a log
and blazed away at them, hitting in all five. When
hippopotamuses are startled by a.shot, they invariably
duck their heads beneath the surface of the water,
and there remain for a long time; some times half
an hour will elapse before they reappear. When they
rise to the surface, they give a loud snort, and if

IX TRAVELS [N EASTERN AFRICA 409

they are really frightened, they take a quick breath
and again submerge themselves. This makes the
shooting of these animals very difficult.

After I had hit five of them, I went with my men
to a point four miles down-stream to a shallow spot,
where I knew the current would soon drift their
bodies. On the way we were close to the bank, when
a large hippopotamus reared his head above the
water, not twenty feet from where I stood. I was
fortunate enough to hit him just between the eyes;
when, contrary to the usual custom of these animals,
instead of disappearing below the surface, he came
snorting toward us on the bank. My men scattered,
and I was just able to lay him low with a shot by
the time he had arrived within a few feet of me.
This was the only time I-was ever charged by a
hippopotamus. In their native element, they do not
lack ferocity; but upon land they are usually very
timid. As a rule, these animals do not venture out
of the water until after sunset, and they return almost
invariably to it before sunrise. Upon two or three
occasions I have come across them in the middle of
the day, feeding in shady spots, but never more than
a few yards from the water.

It was some hours before the bodies of the hippo-
potamuses I had slain reappeared on the surface.
When they did, all my men were kept busy cutting
up ithe meat and .drymg: it over the ‘fires. That
night our camp was visited by many hyenas, who
howled in dreary chorus within a few feet of us. At
this place for the first and only time I heard a hyena
laugh. There is no doubt about it, the animal makes

410 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP. IX

a sound more resembling a laugh than anything else;
but it is far from mirthful.

While returning from the hippopotamus hunt to
Daitcho, I lost my little fox-terrier, Felix. The day
was hot, and we were marching briskly along the
banks of the Ura River. Fearing he would one day
be caught by a crocodile, I was always careful to keep
my eye upon him when near a stream; but on this
occasion, overcome by heat and thirst, he paid no heed
to my voice, but dashed on ahead, until he reached a
small game path leading to the river. An almost
human cry, a loud splash, and Felix—there was no
more Felix. The crocodile was probably lying in wait
at the foot of the game path, hoping to catch some
unwary antelope that should come down to quench
its thirst, and Felix had unwittingly rushed into its
jaws.

Nearly every day of my stay at Daitcho I gave the
men rifle practice, and in a short time, with the excep-
tion of one or two, they became excellent rifle shots at
distances ranging from 100 to 200. yards. As they
became adept in the use of their weapons, their char-
acters appeared to undergo change, their bearing be-
came more martial, and they seemed to be imbued
with fresh spirit.

One day I received a message from Bykender, that
the natives of his village were about to hold a dance,
and he wished me to come and see it; my presence
would not only please the natives, but would enhance
his influence over them. The dance was held at a
spot about thirty minutes’ walk from my camp. The
pleasant sound of male voices in song guided me toa

SNIONVG OHOLIVG

CHAP. IX TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 413

little clearing in the thick bush, and I there found
gathered together some 500 natives of all ages and
both sexes. I was welcomed with smiles, and room
was made for me under a spreading tree, about ten
feet from the nearest dancers.

The dance was simple in its movement, consisting
of a sharp rise upon the toes, the heels returning
with a dull thud to the earth; the shock of which was
diminished by bending the knees, and inclining the
upper part of the body forward. The dancers were
ranged in three double circles (one within the other),
each circle consisting of pairs of youths and maidens.
They faced their partners, each placing hands upon
the shoulders of the other. In the middle stood the
master of ceremonies, an elderly man wearing a mon-
key-skin headdress of vast proportions. He _ beat
time on a huge drum, and led the songs in a high,
falsetto voice. The dance began at sunrise, and
lasted with but little intermission until sunset. Occa-
sionally a dancer stepped out of the ranks to rest for
a moment or two; but even at such time his sympathy
with his fellows kept his legs on the move and his
voice in time. Surely the movement must be most
fatiguing, and doubtless is one of the causes of the
fine development noticeable in Daitcho legs. The sing-
ing was continuous, but the songs changed abruptly
and with frequency; still, as the Daitcho register does
not comprise a great variety of notes, to'a European
the songs all sounded alike.

The dance is an important function, and, being a
full-dress affair, it brings to view all the finery the
dancers possess. The men daub themselves from

414 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP. IX

head to foot with red clay and grease; in this they
are imitated by the women and girls. The men wear
a waist-cloth, and the women clothe themselves from
waist to knee with skins, to which a liberal coating of
clay and grease is applied. All the girls wear their
hair dressed into curious little balls, about the size of
an ordinary marble. This effect is produced by gath-
ering their wool into separate tufts, and then plaster-
ing each knob with clay and grease. Some of the
women had veils made of iron chain covering the face
from the roots of the hair to just above the eyes.
The effect produced was pleasing. In all, there were
about 250 men and women engaged in the dance.
The air was filled with sound, dust, and the odour of
the many perspiring bodies; but one’s senses become
blunted after a stay in Africa, and the unpleasantness
passes unnoticed, if there is the least evidence of hap-
piness or pleasure on the faces of the simple savages.

Dancing is a serious business among the Daitcho:
I rarely saw a man even smile; a woman, never. All
round the dancers were gathered groups of old men
and women, perhaps parents of the participants in
the dance. Some small children were holding a little
impromptu ball of their own near at hand. Occasion-
ally the old women, whose recollections of past joys
in the dance kept them young, would give vent to
their pleasant feelings and thoughts by a shrill trill.
On the whole, the affair was pleasant to view, and
one could not but feel cheered at the sight of so
many harmless beings thus enjoying themselves.

The day following the dance rumours reached me
that a party of Rendile were present among the Embe,

ONIONVdG OHOLIVG

CHAP. IX TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 417

trading with them; so, on October 7, accompanied
by thirty men, I went on a visit to the Embe. I
reached the camp where George had formerly stayed
while trading for donkeys, but found it destroyed.
However, a few hours’ time was sufficient to erect
five huts, thickly covered with banana leaves; which
proved a welcome shelter to my few negro followers.
At night it seemed intensely cold, although the ther-
mometer never registered below 53° Fahrenheit; but,
when the great heat of the day is considered, the
change can be seen to be quite sufficient to impress
itself unpleasantly upon the senses.

Shortly after my arrival at this point three of my
men came to my camp and informed me that Hamidi
had arrived from the coast with eighty men. . He had
brought no letters from the coast, other than those
containing the accounts connected with the expedition,
and had shamefully loitered upon the road. From
Mombasa to Daitcho, with men bearing heavy loads,
the distance can be accomplished in six weeks; Hamidi,
however, had taken three months all but two days.
Lieutenant von Hohnel sent word that he was getting
on nicely, and felt much stronger.

ihe next. day my old finend Lina- came to scée
me. After an exchange of presents I told him I wished
to call an assembly of the old men, as I had something
to say to them. He said that at that time they were
all busily engaged in their plantation work; so I was
forced to postpone my interview. I had intended to
induce them to get the Wamsara and other tribes
inhabiting the southern part of the Jombeni range
to make blood brothers with me. He told me the

2E

418 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

report that the Rendile had visited the Embe was
true; but added that it was a small party consisting
entirely of old women and a few old men. They had
informed the Embe of our visit to them, when told
that Lieutenant von Hodhnel was wounded, and had
stated that he had received this wound in a battle
with the Rendile, and that we had been driven out
of their country with wonderful ease by that great
tribe. I asked Liria whether he believed the story
or not; and he replied that he did not, but most of
the Embe did. It is upon such foundations that ~
rumours are started in Africa; and, as they gain a
wide credence, it is necessary from time to time for
a European to take severe measures to repel onslaughts
prompted by the confidence inspired by the falsehood.

I had instructed Hamidi to bring from Zanzibar
as great a variety of seeds as he could obtain; by
means of which I hoped to induce the natives to
increase the productiveness of their rich country. For
some reason or other, the cocoanuts, coffee beans, and
many other varieties proved worthless. I succeeded,
however, in planting papaw and a large quantity of
rice, which is easily cultivated on the banks of the
small streams intersecting this entire country.

The manner in which Hamidi had fulfilled the
careful instructions I had given him was sorely disap-
pointing. Instead of donkeys and twenty good men,
he had brought with him eighty porters, most of
whom were physically unfit for the work, and_ all
seemed possessed of the most insubordinate and hos-
tile spirit. These men, at least those who were fit,
had for the preceding year or two been employed

IX TRAVELS [VN EASTERN AFRICA 419

upon the well-beaten path which leads from the coast
to Uganda. They had been accustomed to regular
marches and rests over a_ well-known road; and
although the road from the coast to Daitcho could
not in any sense be considered a difficult one, yet
nevertheless, within a few hours of their arrival, they
were complaining of the hardships
of the march they had made, and
saying that Daitcho was no place
for any self-respecting porter.

They had brought a variety of
tales from the coast, principally
highly coloured accounts of the
victories achieved over the Euro-
peans by the Arabs and outlaws
in the neighbourhood of Lamoo.
They said the time had at last
come when the Arabs were about
to reéstablish themselves in Zanzi-
bar on a firm footing, and_ that
messengers had come from Mecca
advocating the “Jehad” (holy war) — Tue Leaver or THE
against the infidel. After hearing oe
these stories, I called all my men together, and said
that not for a moment were lies of this sort to be
tolerated in my camp; that any one of my men who
would take the trouble to think for a moment should
know the stories were absolutely untrue; and that I,
being a European, would not permit such rumours to
circulate while I was there to stop them.

I afterwards learned that there had been some
fighting on the coast, and in one case a European

420 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP. IX

had been killed, a Mr. Hamilton, who had _ been
placed in charge of a body of Arab soldiery at Kis-
mayu. His men had mutinied, and after killing their
leader, had fled by sea back to Arabia. There had
also been a little fighting in the neighbourhood of
Witu with Fumo Omari; but although a few Euro-
peans had been wounded in this fight, yet the issue
had been successful, inasmuch as Fumo Omari had
been driven out of his fastnesses, and his men scattered.

My men were fond of dwelling upon the rumours
about one of the most ardent revolutionists, named
Suliman Kemenya. For the past fifteen years he had
caused great trouble to the European inhabitants on
the coast, and had been exiled by the British author-
ities to Muscat. A few years before the time of our
visit he had returned to Zanzibar, and was at this
time engaged in gathering as large a force as_possi-
ble, in order to harass the Europeans stationed in the
towns of Lamoo, Malinde, and Khalifi. In the eyes
of my porters this man was a great hero; and they
said that, now he had returned, the Europeans would
find out that the Arabs could do something besides
sleep. Not only did the bearing of these men cause
me disappointment, but their number was much in
excess of my requirements, and the length of time
they had taken in the journey from the coast had
almost entirely exhausted the supply of trading-goods,
which I had ordered for use on a continued journey.
Moreover, few of them were armed, and such as were,
had weapons different from those carried by my other
men; besides, their supply of ammunition was a very
small one.

<—S

SSA

<<

DAITCHO LADIES IN FULL BALL COSTUME

CHAP. IX TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 423

A few days after my return from the Embe, Kar-
scho returned from the food station at Sayer, and
reported that the people I- had left there were in a
state of great dissatisfaction owing to the conduct of
the Somali I had placed in charge of them; so I de-
cided to replace these men with others, choosing for
that purpose the most vigorous of the new-comers.
I also took this opportunity of increasing the store
of food at Sayer by sending with these men thirty
loads of flour. This, when added to the food already
at Sayer, would be a fortnight’s supply for my entire
caravan, and would enable us to set out from Daitcho
once more with the men less heavily laden than could
otherwise have been the case.

My days were spent in drilling the new men in
the use of the rifle and in-an attempt to make them
more amenable to discipline. I have never seen a
more lawless lot of wretches than these creatures
seemed to be. In former years many of them had
been engaged in fights against Europeans, particu-
larly one little clique of twenty, who for years had
followed the fortunes of Bushiri, an Arab patriot,
who had endeavoured to prevent the Germans from
taking that portion of East Africa which they had
claimed. Many of them bore scars of the wounds
received in that war, and boasted of the number
of Europeans they had slain. These men by their
boastings quickly became heroes in my camp.

On the 14th of October three men came to “me
bearing a letter from George, which contained glad
tidings. On the road to Kibwezi he had fallen in
with a large caravan of Zanzibari, who were on their

424 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

way to the coast after a journey of two years
through the country lying to the north and west
of Lake Rudolph. They had with them 35,000
pounds of ivory and 600 donkeys. George succeeded
in purchasing seventy-five of these donkeys at twenty-
five rupees each, giving in payment a draft on my
agent at the coast.

This intelligence made my heart actually leap with
joy. There then seemed to be no difficulty lying
between me and the north I so longed to reach.
I had. men, food, and donkeys sufficient to carry
the food. These high hopes, however, were destined
soon to meet with the severest possible blow. From
this time Fortune hid her face from me, and our
luck returned to the condition which had character-
ized it since the outset of the expedition.

Ever since Lieutenant von Hoéhnel had left for the
coast, I had suffered from continued attacks of fever
and liver trouble. The fever never caused my tem-
perature to rise very high, but the attacks returned
daily, and my liver troubles became more and more
frequent. I attribute this condition of my health to
the fact that, throughout the journey to the Rendile
and return, I had greatly overexerted myself, and
this had its effect upon the liver, which in all prob-
ability gave rise to the fever and high temperature.
Although my appetite was good, I grew thinner day
by day; and I looked forward with impatience to
the time when George should return, and we should
be once more able to push into the healthier country
lying to the north of the Guaso Nyiro. By this time
our supply of goats and cattle was almost exhausted ;

IX TRAVELS [NV EASTERN AFRICA 425

so I sent a party of men across the river to Ukam-
bani, to purchase as many goats as possible from the
natives of that country. While they were gone, five
Zanzibari turned up at Daitcho. These men were
members of the caravan from which George had _ pur-
chased donkeys in Ukambani. They had left their
companions at Njemps, in order that they might pick
up some ivory they had left at Daitcho.

I spent many hours chatting with them about the
journey they had just accomplished. They stated
that under the leadership of an Arab, named Abdu-
rachman, they had set out two years before from
Mombasa 400 strong. They had journeyed via
Kikuyu, and passing these people had continued
their march, until they finally reached the country of
the Donyiro. From there the party had crossed the
country of the Reschatt, and had even passed as far
north as the Buma Murlé, the people first visited by
Count Teleki and Lieutenant von Hohnel on their
journey... They had: a little fighting .on the road,
having been attacked once or twice in the Buma
Murlé country. They were also attacked just before
leaving Donyiro on their homeward march; but on
the whole had not had more fighting than usually
falls to the lot of the ill-governed and irregular cara-
vans the Arabs lead. They said there was much
ivory to the north, particularly in the Donyiro coun-
try, and among people called by them Mortunye, who
inhabited a part of the country two days’ march
beyond the Donyiro. From these the caravan had
bought 12,000 pounds of ivory; and as they had
never before been visited by a trading caravan, the

426 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

prices paid for the ivory were ridiculously low. As
soon as the Mortunye found that the traders wished
ivory, they set out in parties to kill elephants.
According to the reports of these Zanzibari, the
Mortunye seemed to be very clever hunters, and were
so likely to kill elephants, that the Arab traders were
accustomed to follow the hunters to get the tusks as
fast as the beasts were slain. Six men hunt together,
and use spears. The traders reported that donkeys
were very cheap in Turcana.

Now that George had purchased donkeys in Ukam-
bani, another difficulty presented itself —I had no sad-
dles for them. Fortunately we had the skins of about
forty zebras, which, however, were so stiff and hard
that it appeared impossible to soften them sufficiently
to make them into comfortable saddles. However, I
set the men to work at them, and after two weeks’
pounding with stones and rubbing with sticks, they
managed to make the refractory hides into panniers of
the roughest possible type.

Just before Lieutenant von Hohnel started for the
coast, a party of thirty Zanzibari had come from Mom-
basa, who, after hearing the tales of my men about
the Rendile, and the statement that the Rendile built
their zeribas of ivory, had set out in that direction
accompanied by a party of forty Wakamba hunters.
They fell in with the Rendile one day’s journey to
the eastward of Chanler Falls. Immediately upon
sighting the caravan, the Rendile threatened to kill
them, and were only prevented and pacified by receiv-
ing a large present from the Zanzibari. The Rendile
refused to trade with them, unless the heaviest sort

IX TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 427

of American sheeting (marduf) was produced; and
this the poor traders did not have in stock. More-
over, the Rendile forced them to pay enormous prices
for every gourd of water they took from the streams;
and finally, after exhausting all their store of goods
in presents to the Rendile for the privilege of mere
existence, they were driven out of the country with
shouts of scorn and warnings never to return. I am
somewhat curious as to the manner in which the next
European will be treated by the Rendile. I think
that, unless he is well equipped, and possessed of a
thorough knowledge of native character, he will expe-
rience great difficulty with these people.

Ever since the middle of October the air was sen-
sibly charged with moisture, and on the night of Octo-
ber 23 my slumbers were interrupted by the noise of
a terrible downpour of rain. We had been assured by
the natives that there were two rainy seasons annu-
ally in this part of the country — one, by far the heav-
ier, in the spring, beginning in March and ending in
early June; the other, as far as I could learn, com-
menced about the middle of November, and continued
about two or three weeks. When I recalled the fact
that George with twenty-five of my men and seventy-
five donkeys was on the other side of the Tana River,
and that another party of thirty of my men was also
over there engaged in purchasing goats, my anxiety
at this unexpected rainfall can readily be imagined.

Even in the dry season the Tana River is difficult to
cross, but when swollen by the rains it assumes such
proportions that with the means at the disposal of the
leader of a caravan, passage over it is well-nigh impossi-

428 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP. IX

ble. Dr. Peters, in the book describing his journey,
tells how for weeks and weeks he made attempt after
attempt to cross the Tana after the rains, only to be
met with disappointment and failure. My men on the
other side of the Tana were pro-
vided with food and_ trading-
goods only sufficient to last
them a _ short time; so_ that,
should the rains continue to fall
for a considerable period, I felt
sure my people would find it ex-
tremely difficult to support life.
Nevertheless, nothing could be
done: Lieutenant von Hohnel
had to be borne to Kibwezi, and
I knew that George would not
loiter on the return journey. I
had nothing to do but fold my
hands, and fortify myself with
what philosophy I had for what
the Fates had in store for me.
Three days after the rains set
in, the men I had sent to Ukam-
bani returned, and reported that

BERI-BERI the river was much swollen, and
Medicine-man and Poisoner of that they experienced much difh-
the Daitcho

culty in their passage over it.
They had heard nothing of George and the men with
him. To state it mildly, my position at this time was
a most trying one. I was at Daitcho with 150 men
and no work for them to perform; my trading-goods,
sufficient for eighteen months’ travel, with 150 men,

CERVICAPRA CHANLERI

CHAP. IX TRAVELS [N EASTERN AFRICA 431

were being slowly exhausted by the necessary pur-
chase of food; and the state of my health was such
that I could not go shooting, and thereby relieve in
great measure this drain upon my stores. I felt as
if caged in a trap, depressed with sickness, irritated
by the delay, and anxious for the safety of George
and his party. Finding us more anxious than ever
to purchase food, the Daitcho people mercenarily
attempted a rise in the prices; but after summoning
Bykender, and giving him clearly to understand that
we would continue to pay the prices we had been
paying, no more -nor less, the people gave up their
attempt at extortion.

In a few days the men I had sent to replenish the
store at Sayer returned. The party was composed
entirely of the new-comers, and their leader reported
that they had been mutinous and troublesome on the
march.

During the rains three small antelopes visited the
hill just above my camp, and I was able to secure
one of them. I felt convinced that it was a new
species; so I carefully preserved its skeleton and skin.
it proved to -be a species of’ red buck heretofore
unknown, and has since been designated ‘ Cervicapra
Chanleri.”

Of the party who had been sent to Ukambani to
purchase goats, five deserted for no apparent reason,
and of course took their rifles with them. Shortly
after the return of this party and those sent to re-
plenish the store at Sayer, all the new-comers came to
me in a body, and said that they could not bear the
insolence of the Somali and Soudanese. As I had

432 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

always taken pains to keep the Somali and Soudanese
as separate as possible from the porters, I knew this
complaint was absolutely without foundation. I sus-
pected that it was not of their own volition that these
men had come to me with this complaint, and that
some member of the caravan was bent upon stirring
up discontent and strife; but despite all my efforts I
was unable to discover who the person was. The new-
comers seemed bent upon impressing it on my mind
that they held the key to the situation, which was
more or less true; for they had received three months’
advance pay at the coast, and as yet the three months
had not expired; so that they had no _ particular
reason for remaining with me. The delay forced
upon me gave them lots of idle time for discussing
and plotting their purpose, as I could not make work
sufficient to occupy them all, and greater discontent
seemed to spread among them day by day. The men
I had sent to Sayer, upon their return complained
unceasingly of the condition of the road over which
they had been forced to march, and said they would
rather spend their lives on the road from Mombasa to
Uganda than walk five days over this lava-strewn soil.

I must say, I sympathized with them, for the road
was very bad; nevertheless, I had had no hand in
making it, and in walking over it I had suffered
nearly as much as they. I lay awake one entire
night pondering over the question presented by these
men, and finally concluded they were by no means a
favourable accession to my force. They were trouble-
some and insubordinate; five of them had already
deserted, and the remainder seemed to favour a similar

IX TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 433

course. I had but a few rifles, and I could not trust
these in the hands of men who would desert; for
when once the rifles were gone, we should have been
helpless in the presence of a horde of savages.

By this time the men who had left the coast with
me had become accustomed to hard travelling, were
good shots, and at all events were not likely to
desert, as each had a goodly sum of money to his
credit. Should the seventy-five donkeys purchased
by George at Ukambani arrive in safety, we should
be able to carry sufficient food to last the caravan
for many days. The greater the number of men one
has in a caravan, the more difficult to provide food.
Bearing this in mind, I decided to put a plain ques-
tion to the new-comers; namely, whether their wish
was to remain with me, or to return to the coast.
I felt all the more willing to do this, as I had not
instructed Hamidi to get so many men; but, on the
contrary, had limited the number to twenty. Acting
upon this idea, I called all the new-comers together,
and in a few words told them I was dissatisfied with
their behaviour, and wished to know whether or not
they cared to remain with me; that if there were
any of them who really cared for work, and would
promise on the Koran not to desert, I would engage
them. They one and all said they wished to return
toy the coast. I gave them half. an« hour to pack
their clothes or change their minds. They still wished
to go, although I assured them I should give them no
rifles or food for their journey. ‘‘ Pwani!” (Coast!)
they shouted; and off they went. At their departure
I experienced a feeling of great relief; for as long as

2F

434 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

they remained with me I feared the expedition was
likely to be broken up at any moment. After their
departure I distributed among my old followers a
large quantity of cloth. This they sorely needed, for
during the rains the air strikes these poor creatures
as cold and chilly.

One afternoon I was aroused from a siesta by the
sound of war horns and the cries of the Daitcho
warriors. They came running to my camp, and _ said
their territory had been entered by a party of several
hundred hostile natives, and they desired me to repel
the invaders. I took a party of seventy-five men and
followed the Daitcho. We ran four miles; but though
we saw a broad trail beaten in the mud of the out-
lying plantations, which marked the path taken by
the hostiles, we were unable to overtake them. They
had probably caught sight of some of my men, and
beat a hasty retreat. However, the fact that we
turned out so willingly pleased the natives immensely,
and upon our return they sang songs expressive of
their appreciation of our act.

During the afternoon of Tuesday, November 7, a
porter came to my tent, and said, “ Mufta is coming,
master.” Now Mufta was one of the men who had
followed George to Kibwezi, and, moreover, was the
best swimmer in the caravan. He approached me
with a sad face, and said, ‘“‘Baraka is drowned.”
Baraka was one of my tent-boys, and being a good
swimmer and an excellent walker, I had sent him in
company with three men to cross the Tana and urge
George to march rapidly, in case he was unaware of
the swollen condition of the stream. It seemed that

IX TRAVELS [IN EASTERN AFRICA 435

George had reached the Tana on November 2, and,
finding the river too much swollen to cross, and
being short of food, he decided to send me a message
to that effect. He called for volunteers from among
the men, to swim the stream and bear me a letter.
Mufta and Baraka volunteered for this work. To
each was given a small glass bottle, in which was
placed a letter.

The Tana, swollen by the recent rains, surged and
roared between its steep and rocky banks; but, un-
deterred by the aspect of the stream, these two
plucky fellows plunged in, and_ battled with the
waters. They had swum half-way across, and ap-
peared to be getting on nicely, when suddenly Baraka,
who was swimming on Mufta’s right, gave a loud cry,
and sank from sight. He rose to the surface for a
moment, screaming with pain, and then disappeared
again and finally. He had undoubtedly been seized
by a crocodile or a hippopotamus. Poor boy! He was
one of the most faithful, efficient, and hard-working
negroes I had ever seen. At the time of his death
he was but twenty-three years of age. His first ex-
perience in caravan work was on the expedition of
Count Teleki and Lieutenant von Hoéhnel, when he
filled the place of donkey-boy. His next venture
was upon my former journey, after which he had
accompanied Mrs. French Sheldon on her journey to
Taveta. I had esteemed myself most fortunate in
securing him for this expedition, and up to the time
of his death he had well and cheerfully performed his
work. I had become attached to him, and his loss
filled me with sincere regret.

430 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

I at once despatched a party of men to the river
to assist George in crossing: being confined to my
bed with fever and liver troubles, I was unable to go
in person. Mufta reported that of the seventy-five
donkeys which George had bought, fifty-five were
still alive and in good condition. The men sent to
the relief of George and his party took with them
ropes and axes, in case it should be possible to use
them in bridge-making. While in camp at Daitcho,
we had made a rope 200 yards long, and about as
thick as a man’s wrist, for use in crossing rivers.
This we made from the fibre of a plant growing in
the neighbourhood. The rope was very light, and
capable of withstanding great strain; and it looked
almost as neat as a well-made hemp hawser.

During the evening of the day upon which these
men set out, two of them returned, and reported that
with the exception of one man they had not been
able to ford even the Ura River, so much had it
swollen. The man who crossed went on and reached
the Tana, which he could not cross. He _ fired
several shots to attract the attention of the men with
George, but from the roar of the stream was unable
to distinguish any sound as an answer; however, he
could see the forms of men on the opposite bank.
The other man said that the porter who swam the
Ura, and reached the Tana, saw all the men and don-
keys on a small island in mid-stream, and that they
had shown by signs that it was impossible for them to
either advance or retreat. If the latter story proved
true, it meant that George and the men with him
would die of starvation; for the island was about

IX TRAVELS [IN EASTERN AFRICA 437

100 yards from the shore, and between there rushed
a mighty torrent.

I sent two of my best swimmers with letters for
George, placed in tightly corked bottles, which they
were to deliver at all hazards. In these letters I in-
structed George to fall back upon Ukambani, and if he
became ill on account of the rains, to retire to the

SCENE ON THE TANA

mission station at Kibwezi. I then gave up all hope
of getting out of Daitcho for months.

For a few days the rains did not descend with
much violence, and I hoped they were over. During
this period one of my men returned from the Tana,
and reported that the river was rapidly falling, and
that he expected George and his followers would soon
be able to cross. About sunset on November 15
a man came running to me, while I was in bed, cry-

*

438 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

ing, “A man is dying.” I jumped up, and_ followed
my informant; but when I reached the spot where the
man lay, I saw that he was already dead. I identi-
fied him as Wadi Farhan, who had taken some men
to procure firewood. These men returned without
him, and reported, that he had left them to speak to
some natives a short distance away. He _ had
apparently followed them, and dropped dead in the
road. He was not cold when I reached him. His
companions shouted, “ Poison!” but I silenced them.
I fancy his trouble was heart failure. His funeral
took place, while the west was still glowing with the
pearly tints of sunset. Night had already set in_ be-
fore the last cries of “La illaha il Allah!” proclaimed
the grave to hold its own, and to be covered with
stones.

It was not until November 19 that I received word
from George. Hamidi had managed to get food and
medicines across the river to him; and he reported
that if the rains did not fail for six days, the river
would lower sufficiently to enable George to cross,
but that at that time it was impossible for him to do
SO.

During the rains the two Beloochi, Abdurachman
and Gwaharam, who had set out in search of ivory,
returned, bringing with them twenty-seven donkeys.
We exchanged presents, and I endeavoured to pur-
chase the donkeys from them, but without success.
They had with them from 700 to 800 pounds of ex-
cellent ivory, which they had purchased from the
Wanderobbo. They said that the country to the
north of the Guaso Nyiro was then plentifully sup- -

IX TRAVELS [MN EASTERN AFRICA 439

plied with water; and it filled me with irritation to
think that I was unable to profit by this state of
affairs in pushing on to Reschatt. The Beloochi
said that during the rains, although the Tana is
nearly always swollen to such an extent that it is
unfordable, nevertheless there are periods when the
rains fall less incessantly, and during such periods
the river lowers, permitting caravans already stationed
on the bank, and watchful for such an opportunity,
to cross ere the river again rises. In order to take
advantage of the chance of such a favourable condi-
tion, they set out with their men and donkeys for the
banks of the river.

November 16 was ushered in by a flight of locusts,
so dense as to form a cloud. The natives came to
us at once, and asked for medicine to stop the
plague. I told them to have patience; that their
crops would not suffer; for I considered that the
millet had not grown sufficiently high to sustain per-
manent injury, even though all above ground should
be entirely eaten. However, they insisted that I
should make medicine, and to that end brought a
male sheep. I told them to kill and eat the sheep
in company with one of my men. They at once
built a fire, and slaughtered the victim; but after the
meat was cooked, they refused to eat any of it there,
as they said that the local deity, who lived on a hill
back of our camp, would kill them at once, should
they eat it in the neighbourhood of the hill. Though
the natives refused to eat the sheep, my men gladly
did so; and while eating it they laughed and gossiped
together in such a hearty manner, that the natives

440 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

thought my medicine-making might possibly have
been a joke; so they came to me in a most serious
manner, and said that they wished me to make other
medicine. I told them that nothing I could do would
check the locusts; that they were doubtless sent from
Heaven as a punishment for the prices extorted by
the Daitcho from me in exchange for the goods they
sold; and I added that I could in no way interfere
with such punishment.

Finding me obdurate, the natives set to work to
do what they could in order to check the swarming
of the locusts. They seized branches of trees in their
hands, and set about the plantations, furiously beat-
ing the air and waving the branches. An hour of
this work fatigued them to such a degree that almost
all of them lay down upon the ground, and gave vent
to loud lamentations and curses; but the locusts
moved not. Occasionally five or six of the more
determined would rise up after a short period of
rest, and return to the branch-swinging; then, hav-
ing again exhausted themselves, they would sink
back again into a lethargic condition. These spas-
modic and abortive efforts they continued for several
hours. Finally several of them came to me, and in
the most heart-broken manner said that it rested
with me alone whether or not they should starve to
death the following year. To this they added, that
they had done the best they could for me in all
ways, and they knew that, if I would, I could stop
this raid of locusts. From my knowledge of the
natives I was certain that if I did not appear to
make an attempt to stop the locusts, such action

IX TRAVELS [IN EASTERN AFRICA 441

would be construed as evidence of unfriendliness to
the Daitcho; and this was the last opinion I wished
them to entertain. In order to humour them, I told
them to wait; and when my men had finished eat-
ing the sheep, I took the tallest and blackest one,
dressed him in a long, white robe, placed a large
sun-umbrella in his hand, took him to the opening
in front of my camp (where at that time the locusts
were falling like hail-stones), and ordered him there
to dance and sing in the most vigorous manner, and
at the same time spin the umbrella over his head.
This seemed to satisfy the natives, and their looks
and gestures testified to the strength of their feel-
ings of joy and satisfaction.

Around and about danced the negro, his shouts
echoing to the heavens, and his white umbrella seem-
ing a halo above his head. When he exhibited signs
of fatigue, I shouted to him to increase the rapidity
of his motions; and, finally, when the sound of his
voice had become faint and hoarse, and _ perspiration
streamed freely from every pore, I permitted him to
cease his gyrations.

Lo, hardly had he stopped, when an event occurred
which filled me with surprise, and produced more
than astonishment in the minds not only of the
natives, but of my followers as well. For hours the
locusts had swept by us in millions, and it seemed
there was no end to them. As far as the eye could
see to the north, nothing was in view but a cloud of
these insects. However, when my unwilling dervish
had ceased his efforts, the cloud of locusts stopped, as
though at the word of command, hesitated a moment

442 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

in their flight, and then, as though influenced by
some occult power, changed direction, and made off
toward the desert.

It was with the greatest difficulty that I controlled my
features: never were risibles given such great provoca-
tion as mine at that time. The Daitcho people threw
their hands into the air as in an attitude of devotion,
gazed at me with reverence and awe, and then ex-
pressed their gratitude by the only means in their
power. They formed a long line in front of me; and,
led by the elders, they all proceeded to dance, slowly
at first, and all the while chanting a tuneless song.
Finally, having wrought themselves to a pitch resem-
bling religious enthusiasm, their movements became
quicker and quicker; all sense of the harmony of
sounds seemed to depart from them, and the ear
was filled with a roaring bedlam of thanksgiving and
joy.

As my luncheon hour was approaching, I sent word
to them to depart, which they unwillingly did, wish-
ing, as long as they had strength in their limbs or
breath in their bodies, to testify their admiration and
gratitude for the deed I had performed.

On November 19, Hamidi and his men returned
from the river, bringing with them a letter from George,
who was well, but reported the death of five donkeys
from fly-bite; also, that to avoid further similar hap-
penings he had sent others to a point two days’ journey
from the river, where there were no flies. I sent men
for further news from George, and they returned, stating
that the river had again risen, and that George had
determined to leave the donkeys in charge of five men

IX TRAVELS [IN EASTERN AFRICA 443

at -Ukambani, and join me via Hameye, at which
point the Pokomo with their canoes could ferry him
across the river. This would also have been a good
road over which to bring the donkeys, had it not been
for those little pests, the “ tsetse” fly.

About this time I was informed by the natives that
owing to the exceptional fall of rain it was unlikely
that the Tana would prove fordable at any point for
two or three months to come. It was impossible for
me to waste so much time; so I sent Hamidi and
some of my men to the river bank, for the purpose
of searching for a fit tree from which to make a dug-
out canoe.

When the rainy season had set in, Motio went away
to visit his people on the mountains. At this time he
returned bringing with him an old man, whom he
called his father, and also a neighbour. I gave each
of them a large present, and Motio bade me farewell,
saying that he did not think he should ever return to
me at Daitcho, as he was so rich from the presents I
had given him, that he would be able to settle down
among his own people during the remainder of his
life. He never reappeared. I felt that my whole ex-
pedition owed this poor stricken creature a debt of
gratitude for his services; and I hoped that he was
permitted by his tribesmen to enjoy in peace the
riches he had acquired.

Early in December the rains almost entirely ceased,
yet not altogether, for occasionally a slight shower fell
during the night. On December 11, having recovered
somewhat from my indisposition, I went to the Tana,
where I found Hamidi and his men. They had nearly

444 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

completed a capital dug-out, twenty feet in length, with
a beam of three feet. Unfortunately the place where
the canoe was built was unsuitable for launching it,
so we were forced to carry it nearly two miles through
a dense undergrowth. As it weighed nearly one thou-
sand pounds, the difficulty of this task can be imagined
when it is remembered that we had no vehicle. How-

SCENE ON THE TANA

ever, by constant application we had it ready for launch-
ing on December 15.

On the evening of that day I received the tidings
that George had arrived at Daitcho, and at early dawn
of the following day I set out to meet him. The
story of his trials and sufferings during the rains
would fill a volume. On first reaching the Tana, he
had with him but four days’ food supply. For more
than two weeks he remained on the banks of the
river, sending back small parties to purchase food

IX TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 445

from the Wakamba villages two or three days’ march
distant. Almost daily he made attempts to cross the
river, and upon one occasion got within fifty yards of
the other bank, when owing to a shower of rain the
river suddenly rose, and it was with the utmost diffi-
culty that he and his men managed to avoid being
drowned. |

He at length decided to march to Hameye, and
there cross the river by means of the canoes possessed
by the Pokomo; but the rains had made the south
bank of the Tana so soft, and the undergrowth was
so thick, that he was forced to turn back. He then
decided to advance up the Tana until it decreased in
size, and then endeavour to cross. After four days’
marching he reached a tribe called Wathaka, who in-
habit both banks of the Tana at a point not more
than three days’ march from Daitcho. These people
received him kindly, and volunteered to transport him
and all his goods to the opposite bank; which they
did.

The Wathaka are really extraordinary swimmers.
They worked in the water in pairs. Each would put
a hand on the shoulder of his partner, and their arms
thus formed a resting-place for the men they were to
transport across the stream. The loads of merchan-
dise they transported in a different manner. They
made it up in parcels weighing about twenty pounds
each, which they placed upon their heads, and then
plunged into the stream. They did not swim with
the loads, but permitted themselves to be carried along
with the current, which here swept in the direction of
the opposite bank. Every few moments they would

446 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

rise to the surface and take a breath of air; then,
sinking, would remain beneath the surface, until they
had been carried by the swift current a distance of
ten or fifteen yards; when they would again reappear,
and repeat the operation. In this way the loads were
taken across in safety.

George reported that when he left Kibwezi, Lieu-
tenant von Hohnel was rapidly improving under the
treatment of the doctor, who had assured him that
although the wound would not permanently affect
him, yet it would be impossible for Lieutenant von
Hoéhnel to continue the journey in Africa, and he
would have to return to Europe.

Owing to the unusual rainy season, and the attend-
ant fly, only forty-two of the donkeys purchased by
George were alive; so I decided to leave them in
Ukambani, where pasturage was good, until the river
had lowered sufficiently to permit their ferriage with-
out difficulty. I decided to set out in the meantime
with fifty or sixty of my men, and go to Kythere,
where, the Wanderobbo told me, Masai were living
who possessed many donkeys. I hoped to accomplish
the journey in three weeks, and then set out once
more for the north thoroughly equipped.

Since the departure of the porters Hamidi had
brought with him from the coast, my men appeared
to be in excellent spirits. They had little, if any,
work to perform, and had enjoyed double rations of
food. To enable the men to share the pleasure I
experienced upon the return of George and the men
I had sent with him, I distributed a large present of
cloth among them.

IX TRAVELS [VM EASTERN AFRICA 447

At this time we thought our trials and tribulations
were almost at an end, and hoped the New Year
would find us well on our way. But, alas! within
the next few hours we were to learn how impossible
it is in Africa to count upon what a single day may
bring forth.

COUNTRY NEAR GUASO NYIRO RIVER

CHAPTER, X

At about quarter to five on the morning of De-
cember 17, I heard the voice of George at my tent,
saying, “Mr. Chanler, the porters have all left camp
in a body with their weapons.” I leaped to my feet,
seized the first gun I could lay hands on, and dashed
out of the zeriba. It was quite dark, but I was able
to distinguish a mass of forms standing at a distance
of eighty yards. I had an instinctive feeling which
prompted me to throw away my weapon, and advance
toward -them unarmed. It was well I did so, for I
afterwards ascertained that the weapon I had seized
was an empty shot-gun. I said nothing until I
reached a point within ten feet of the men, and
then I asked, “What is the matter?” A voice from
the rear of the line said, ‘‘We are going to Hamidi,
our headman, at the river.’ I shouted, “ Return to
camp at once.” There was no distinct reply, but a
low murmur rose from the mass of the men.

I looked behind me, and saw standing there George
and Ramazan, the chief of the Soudanese. None of
us three had so much as a stick in our hands.

I then asked, “Is this the plan of all of you, or
are you obeying the orders of some one?” A feeble
but general shout of “All” escaped them. I then
said, “Wait until Hamidi comes for you;- he will

448

CHAP. X TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 449

return, to ‘our camp’ Here in’ a day or ‘two.’ “Then
excited cries arose, and I saw the men through fear
were working themselves into a frenzy. My one idea
was to keep them talking, until I could formulate
some plan of action by which to circumvent their
attempt at desertion. I then said, “Do you realize
what you are about to do?—you are deserting the
European in the desert. You will not only get no
pay, but will receive the punishment meted to all
deserters upon arriving at the coast. Do not be
foolish; return to camp. If you have any complaints
to make, return to camp, and make them.”

These words were received by the men with ever-
increasing shouts. The longer I stood there, the
greater seemed their courage, and the less my chances
of retaining them. I turned to George, and whispered
a few words to him. The men seemed to guess what
I was doing, and shouted one to another, “ Twende-
zetu’’ (Let us go). Occasionally, in their excitement,
a gun was discharged, and the flash illumined for an
instant the faces of the men in its vicinity. I could
see that many of them, poor stupid creatures, had
their guns pointed towards me in a trembling and
half-hearted manner.

While I was talking with the men, two of my
Somali and three Soudanese rushed up, and lined
themselves behind me; they were in a high state of
excitement, and appeared willing to assist me in every
way. Had they held their peace, it is likely I should
have succeeded in bringing back the would-be deserters
to camp; but these faithful creatures, perhaps in order

to overawe the deserters, slapped their guns with their
2G

450 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

hands, to show they were armed, and assured me of
their presence.

The light was getting stronger every moment, and
all the time my eyes were scanning the features of the
men, in order to distinguish which of them was acting
the part of leader. I finally discovered at the end of
the line Mwalim Hamis, a man who had enlisted with
me as a porter, but whom I had recently raised to the
position of headman. As soon as I caught sight of
him, I said, “Come here, Mwalim.” In a hesitating
manner he advanced toward me, but stopped while
yet a few yards distant. I then moved toward him,
and said, “ What is the meaning of all this? what are
you doing?” He shrank back, and stuttered, “ Don’t
come closer, master. Don’t come closer. Don’t you
see I am armed?” slapping his rifle with his hand, as
he made the remarks. I said, “You stupid ass; don’t
you see I am unarmed? What are you afraid of?”
It was then that a voice from the rear of the line,
which I recognized as belonging to a man who, from
the first day after his enlistment with the caravan had
proved a source of difficulty, asked, “Why do we stand
here talking? Let us go.” Then a great chorus of
shouts arose, and guns were discharged in the air,
some of which, perhaps inadvertently, were pointed in
our direction. The drum beat, they started, and soon
disappeared from sight.

The suddenness of this desertion almost stunned
me; I was not in the slightest way expecting or pro-
vided for it. The men had not evinced the slightest
discontent, or in any way shown a disposition to de-
sert. I may freely admit that my first thoughts were

x TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 451

of vengeance, and through my brain surged the idea
that with my Soudanese and Somali and daylight I
should be able to kill a great number of the deserters,
and perhaps turn the purpose of the others. I then
remembered that these poor creatures were not acting
of their own volition, but under the orders of some
one not at hand.

When I left the Tana for Daitcho to join George,
I had left Hamidi with ten men in charge of the canoe
at the river; and it seemed probable that he was the
mainspring of the desertion. I thought it would
perhaps be possible to bring back these men. It ap-
peared to me highly improbable that they would
return to the coast, where they, as well as I, knew
that from time immemorial deserters from European
caravans had met with severe punishment upon their
arrival and capture. What, then, could have been the
cause of their desertion?

Upon returning to camp, the Soudanese and Somali
expressed a willingness to chase and fight the deserters ;
but I knew that even among these men there was at
least one traitor. The camp at Daitcho had two gates,
and at each gate a Soudanese was stationed. It was
the duty of such sentinel to allow no more than one
porter to be absent from the zeriba, unless I sent a
number of them out for some special purpose. A
Soudanese named Birindgi was stationed at the gate
by which the men had deserted, and he had taken
pains not to give any warning until all the porters
had passed through the gate, one by one. Even then
he did not report to George or me, as he had been
ordered in case of any unusual happening, but went

452 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

to one of the Somali, who in turn notified George,
from whom finally I learned the state of affairs. From
the time they left the zeriba until I was notified, at
least four or five minutes had elapsed. Here was a
case of an entire caravan, splendidly treated in every
manner, throwing up sixteen months’ pay and going
off without food. Hamidi had not seemed to like the
Somali and Soudanese; but, as I had been careful not
to allow them to have anything to do with him and
his men, he must have had some other reason for his
action. At all events, I knew that Hamidi was a man
of some property at Zanzibar, and even if he were
behind the whole affair, that he would not dare to go
to the coast, without endeavouring to explain his action
either by coming in person or by sending a letter.
On the afternoon of the day the men deserted, my
friend Gwaharam, the Beloochi, arrived from the river.
He seemed in a state of great nervous excitement, and
I felt for a moment as if he might have had something
to do with the desertion. He had told me that he
proposed, upon arriving at the coast, to fit out a large
expedition to trade at Reschatt and throughout the
north. These traders did not like Europeans to precede
them, because the trading goods carried by the Euro-
peans are better than those they make use of; and so
the natives are loath to accept their goods in exchange
for ivory or anything else; hence it seemed to me
quite possible that Gwaharam had assisted in some
way the breaking up of my caravan. From his manner
and appearance I gathered that he at least knew some-
thing about the state of affairs at the river; but he
repeatedly swore that he knew nothing. He said that

x TRAVELS [NM EASTERN AFRICA 453

shortly after noon on that day he had heard shots
fired and men shouting, and running out from his
camp he saw my men passing. He asked what they
were doing; and they replied, “ We are going to the
coast; our time has expired.” He said that he had
attempted to reason with them, but they had told him
to mind his business. He was sure I could bring back
all the men, but that there was only one way to do
it, — I must write a letter to Hamidi. He said, “ Don’t
go, yourself, vor let George go. The men are in a
state of wild excitement, and I have had enough ex-
perience with Zanzibari, in all my years of travel in
East Africa, to know that when in that state they
are not in any way amenable to reason.”

These words did not make much impression upon
me; but I knew that if I should attempt to drive
the men back with the small force at my disposal,
they would always be able to say that they had been
forced back against their wills; and they would take
advantage of the first opportunity to desert. If I could
not keep them together in a strong camp like that
at Daitcho, it would be impossible to prevent desertions
while on the march, as I had found by experience.

One of the men in the traders’ caravan then at
Daitcho was able to write Arabic; so I sent for him,
and had the following letter written to Hamidi: —

“ Hamip1,— This morning, early, all the Zanzibari
except seven left camp, and said they were going to
you at the river. I asked them why, but could get
no answer.

“TI do not know if this is your work. If it is not
your work, send a letter, or give it to Gwaharam,

454 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

explaining the state of affairs. If it is not your work,
bring back the men; I shall forget to-day’s behaviour,
and all shall be as before. If, on the contrary, it is
your plan to go to the coast, it is not your place to
run away secretly like a slave. You are a freeman,
and the headman of this expedition, and should give
your reasons for going to the coast, and leaving me,
a European, in the desert.

“T do not know why you go. If there is a reason
for your going, why do you not tell it me? Perhaps
we can arrange matters.”

I then had with me in the camp seven Somali,
eleven Soudanese, one Galla and one Masai interpre-
ter (Hassan), my two tent-boys, George’s tent-boy, the
cook (a cousin of Hamidi), and one solitary porter.
This porter was found alone in his tent, shortly after
the other men had deserted. I told him jokingly
that he was stupid to remain behind with me, as it
was better for him at once to follow the rest of the
porters. He declined to do this, saying that he did
not join the expedition for fun, but for the sake of
pay, which he knew he should not get if he deserted.
Those remaining behind, one and all, denied that
they had had the slightest knowledge of the intended
desertion, and stated that the first intimation they
received of it was when the men left the zeriba.

I now began to turn over in my mind everything
which related to the present state of affairs, and de-
cided that even now it was possible for me to push
on and accomplish something. It was unlikely that
the deserters would take with them the donkeys at
Ukambani. I had twenty-six men in camp, and at

x TRAVELS [NV EASTERN AFRICA 455

the food station in Sayer were six others. Besides,
there was at that time a caravan of thirty traders at
Daitcho, whom I thought it possible to induce to join
my expedition upon promising them large pay. If
the donkeys were not stolen, and the traders could
be induced to join me, I should then have a sufficient
force to reach Reschatt in the north, or, at all events,
to prolong my journey, and perhaps make some inter-
esting discoveries. I should not have felt so depressed
at the desertion of these men, had I not been con-
scious of having treated them so well; but this was
a strengthening thought, as it convinced me that it was
through no ill treatment of mine that the break-up
in the caravan occurred.

During the evening of the following day a mes-
senger came from the Beloochi, and said that he had
met Hamidi on the road, and that he and one of the
porters (Hussein) were then sleeping near by, and
would come to my camp early the following morning.

Early the next morning, Gwaharam appeared with
Hamidi and the porter: they both carried rifles, which
they laid aside as they approached me. Hamidi
seemed very nervous, but the face of the porter wore
an air of braggadocio. In answer to my question,
“What is the matter?” Hamidi denied any knowl-
edge of the affair. He said that the men reached the
Tana on the afternoon of the day they left us, and
were in a most excited state, and he could get noth-
ing out of them, except that the time for which they
had enlisted had expired, and that they would go no
farther into an unknown country filled with savage
people like the Rendile.

456 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

He added that upon reaching the river the men
had threatened to bind him; but he had managed by
his eloquence to persuade them to allow him to take
the news to me. He said the men had all crossed
the river, and were encamped on the farther bank.
He made no attempt to explain matters, but in an-
swer to further questions shook his head, and _ said,
“Master, I know nothing.”

I was firmly convinced that he was at the bottom of
it, and I knew that I might easily seize and bind him;
but in such case it seemed less likely that I should
again see the men. They had already, according to
Hamidi’s statement, crossed the river, and the scent of
the coast was in their nostrils. I decided that it was
through Hamidi alone that I must work, if I hoped
to see the men again; so I told him to go and bring
the men back to camp, if possible; still, if he was
unable to do that—why, never mind. My apparent
indifference seemed to upset him; and he asked me
what he should do in case he was unable to bring
them back. I said, “If you go with them, it will
prove you are part and parcel of the desertion, and
the results will be upon your head. If you return
to me, bringing at least some of the men, I shall
know that you had nothing to do with the desertion ;
otherwise, I shall hold you responsible at the coast.”

Upon being further questioned, he admitted that
nothing I had ever done had aught to do with the
desertion of the men. Upon being more closely
pressed, he muttered something about the Somali;
but when I urged him to speak plainly, he shrugged
his shoulders and said nothing. He finally said that

x TRAVELS [VM EASTERN AFRICA 457

he had no complaints to make, and that he would
bring back the deserters. I called witnesses into
my tent, and producing a copy of the Koran, made
him swear an oath, which is supposed to be the most
binding upon the natives of Zanzibar. It consisted
in repeating the words, “ Yamin Bilalhi,” which roughly
translated mean, “As I have faith in Allah.” There
is a superstition current among these people that any
man breaking this oath will be struck dead shortly
after; but I am quite sure many natives of Zanzibar
are living in a state of perfect health after having ,
broken this oath as many times as convenience dic-
tated. He then repeated again and again that he
was innocent of complicity in the desertion, and prom-
ised to send me word as to the result of his pleadings
with the men the first thing on the following day.
Finally he bade farewell and departed.

The following day two of the traders encamped at
Daitcho came to me, and complained that the natives
had changed their behaviour after the desertion of
my men, and were then committing petty thefts, and
in every way showing their contempt for the traders.
I at once sent word to Bykender that I should hold
him responsible for any further thefts committed in
the camp of the traders, and that unless the behaviour
of the Daitcho should be as good as it had previously
been, I should visit him with severe punishment.

At nine o’clock on the morning of December 21,
I heard four shots fired behind my zeriba, and sent
at once to find the cause. Immediately Ramazan,
the chief of the Soudanese, came and said, “ All my
people have gone away.’ He said that upon _hear-

458 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

ing the shots he went out, and found the Soudanese
standing in line with their guns pointed at him.
They told him to go, or they would fire. He asked
them what the matter was, and they said that they
had got bad news (khabar batal), and were going
away. They then fired more shots, and went off at
a dead run.

I got my men together and pursued them, but to
no purpose. They did not take the main road to the
river, but ran among the bushes; so after having
looked for them a couple of hours I returned.

I was greatly perplexed; the desertions of both
porters and Soudanese were effected suddenly, and
no reason assigned. If the Soudanese had intended
at first to desert, why had they, three of them at
least, when the porters were drawn up in the line
before the zeriba, stood behind me and_ expressed
willingness to assist me in every way? The Sou-
danese, too, had come all the way from Massowa, and
they knew perfectly well it would be impossible for
them to collect pay by any means at Zanzibar; but,
on the contrary, it was more probable that the Italian
consul would imprison them immediately upon their
arrival at that place.

Now that the Soudanese had joined the porters, I
thought it probable that we should receive a visit
from the deserters in a body. Hamidi had not sent
word since his final departure; but it was _ possible
that while in camp he might have had some commu-
nication with the Soudanese; and now that my force
in the zeriba was so reduced, it was quite on the
cards that the deserters might return and destroy

x TRAVELS [VN EASTERN AFRICA 459

all evidence of their desertion by putting us out of
the way. About 3 p.m. on the day that the Soudanese
deserted, I was seated in a straw shed I had had
built outside of the zeriba, when I saw a man wear-
ing a blue coat, such as those worn by my Sou-
danese, coming hurriedly towards the zeriba. He
proved to be a Soudanese, named Hussein Mahomet.
My first thought was to kill him. I dashed at him,
seized him by the throat with my right hand, and
with my left wrenched his Mannlicher from him, and
cocked it. He fell upon his knees, and stammered
out the word “khabar,’ which means news. Thank
Heaven he spoke; for the tone of his voice brought
me to myself, and stayed my hand. I took him in-
side of my shed, and then had some of the Somali
‘called, who were conversant with Arabic.

The intelligence he gave was as follows. The pre-
ceding night I had called Mahomet Aman (the head
of the Somali) to me, and told him to make ready
the chains; for it was my intention, if the deserters
returned, and behaved in a refractory manner, to bind
the ringleaders at once. One of the Soudanese was
on duty near by, and heard some of the talk. His
guilty conscience (for I felt sure the Soudanese knew
of the plan of the porters, if they did not assist in
its consummation) made him think I was going to
chain up the Soudanese. They talked over the
matter during the night, but did not mention it to
Ramazan; for they one and all hated him, owing to
the fact that he was their chief, and had forced them
to maintain a certain amount of discipline. Early
the following morning, when Mahomet Aman set to

460 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

work to arrange the chains, these foolish creatures
thought their time had come. They must have run
like stags, for I was never able to catch sight of
them. Mahomet el Hussein said that after walking
about eight miles his common sense returned, and he
decided to come back to me. He told his friends,
and they threatened to shoot him. He said, “ All
right; if I die, it will be in a good cause.” He then

1
OAL
WG Mn eo

age.

a ie Aa
WW

Yee

\
: SS

LARGE BAOBAB TREE

placed his back to a tree, and brought his rifle to
his shoulder. This determined stand on his part
made his companions change their minds; for after
cursing him they went away.

Just fancy the idiocy of these people; they form
the wildest conclusions upon imaginary hypotheses,
and then act at once without hesitating long enough
to ascertain the facts! This is one of -the greatest
difficulties in dealing with negroes.

x TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 461

I called the Zanzibari traders to me, and had a
long talk with them about leaving my goods in their
charge, while I returned to the coast, and formed a
fresh expedition. They seemed unwilling to do this;
sO we came to no agreement. We now had in the
zeriba sixteen men in all, including George and me
.—a truly noble force! However, our camp was
strong; and although the natives might possibly at-
tempt to take advantage of our small numbers, I felt
strong enough for defence; so I decided to wait at
least until after Christmas before taking any action.
The Beloochi had promised that, as soon as they
reached the place where George had left the don-
keys, they would send back word as to the way
matters there stood, and as to what the deserters
had done.

At this time our position was not one to fill me
with good cheer. We were fairly safe where we were,
but the expedition was utterly broken up, and there
remained no thought, but how to get back to the
coast; for I felt confident that -the men upon their
arrival there would spread tales which would reach
Europe and frighten my people. I had six men at
the food station at Sayer; but though I felt con-
vinced they would have joined the mutineers, had
they been present, still they had not, and conse-
quently I could not leave them behind.

Hussein Mahomet was surprised that I neither shot
him nor put him in chains for. having deserted.
One day he came to me without solicitation, and told
me that Birindgi and Moussa had for the preceding
month been very thick with the porters; and as they

462 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

had acquired a fair knowledge of Swahili, they had
been able to converse with them. He, Mahomet el
Hussein, knew no word of Swahili, nor had he heard
of any plan of desertion they had formed. When
Hamidi returned to my camp on December rg, after
the desertion of my men, all the Soudanese had a
talk with him. Hamidi told them that they should
come to him at the river, and follow him to the
coast, as General Matthews of Zanzibar had told him
that if he succeeded in inducing the men to desert,
he would see that they all received their pay upon
reaching the coast. Hamidi told the Soudanese that
he would wait five days on the bank of the river for
them, and if they did not turn up in that time, he
would go without them. Mahomet Osman, the Sou-
danese on duty at the time I spoke to the Somali
about getting the chains ready, had told them that
owing to the desertion of the porters I was about to
place the Soudanese in chains, and make them carry
loads. The day they ran away Birindgi acted as their
leader on the march.

Taking all things into consideration, it looked as
if Hamidi had been acting under orders received dur-
ing his visit to the coast; but what possible reason
the authorities at Zanzibar could have for breaking
up my expedition could not appear clear to my mind.
The ways of diplomacy are devious. I had read in
Mr. Frank James’s account of the journey he had
made in Somali Land (called the Unknown Horn of
Africa), how the British authorities at Aden had
interfered, by spreading rumours among the people
through whom he was to pass, to force his expedi-

x TRAVELS IV EASTERN AFRICA 463

tion to return to the coast. The authorities gave as
a reason for this, that they feared ill might befall Mr.
James and his party, and that the British Government
might in some way be held responsible.

On Christmas Eve I sent Hassan and three of the
traders to the food station at Sayer. Hassan was to
bring back the’six*men I had left there. All the
goods I had stored at Sayer I gave to the traders.
As these men went without loads, I knew they could
accomplish the distance to and from Sayer in ten
days; but to allow for accidents, I told Hassan that
I should expect him-in fourteen at the latest. Christ-
mas Day found us in surprisingly good spirits, consid-
ering our position. I killed a bullock and feasted our
men. George and I had for dinner two pints of
champagne, a tinned plum pudding, a good steak, and
a pilau made of rice and chicken.

“We now had nothing to do but await the return
Othe men’ from Sayer. I decided to set out aiter
their arrival for the coast via Ukambani. The rains
were still falling, and, had it not been for the canoe
which I had built for George’s assistance, my men
would never have been able to cross the Tana, and
so to desert. This rainy season had been a phenom-
enal one. It had rained with but slight intermission
for six weeks; but at that time of the year the rains
were supposed never to last more than three.

The day after Christmas, Gilo, my Galla inter-
preter, came to me with one of the Somali, and after
craving forgiveness for so long concealing what he
had to say, recited the following. For a month before
the desertion of the men he had slept in the same

404 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

hut with Mwalim Hamis, the porter I had made
headman, who acted as leader of the porters when
they deserted, and went to Hamidi. He said that
about 3.30 A.M.on the day when the porters deserted,
Mwalim Hamis awakened him and said, “Get your
things ready; we are all going to the coast. Hamidi
has sent me word not to leave a single man behind.”
Gilo refused to go.

He swore that these words of Mwalim Hamis con-
veyed the first intelligence he had of the porters’
plans; and he thought not more than four or five of
the men had known anything of the planned deser-
tion, until notified a few hours before they took their
leave.

Gilo said that when he first heard the words from
Mwalim Hamis, he thought he would come at once
and tell me of the plans; but that he was afraid he
would be discovered and killed by the porters.

Some of the traders came to me, and told me they
knew the desertion had been planned, but that they
were accustomed to such rumours about caravans, and
had attached no importance to it. The traders at
this time were having almost daily squabbles with
the Daitcho; so I was forced to interpose to prevent
trouble. Our only safety lay in maintaining the
friendliest relations with the Daitcho, as they would
then warn us of any proposed attack upon us, under-
taken by the Embe or some other neighbouring tribe.

On January 27, Hussein Mahomet, the Soudanese,
came to me, and after repeating his former statement,
added that on the day of their desertion, while on
the march to the river, Moussa told him that Hamidi

x TRAVELS [IN EASTERN_AF RICA 465

had sent the following orders to Mwalim Hamis, who
represented Hamidi at the zeriba: that should I give
orders to the Soudanese or Somali to seize the por-
ters as they were running away, the porters were to
attack the Soudanese and Somali with clubs, disarm
them, bind George and me, and then take us with
them to the coast. Had not the desertion been so

WAKAMBA WARRIORS

utterly unaccountable, I should not have paid much
attention to these words; but as it was, I was willing
to listen to anything which would throw light on the
action of the porters. I knew that no Zanzibari
would dare form such a plan as binding a European,
without the sanction and prompting of some higher
power than his own intelligence. Hamidi and the

porters were perfectly well aware that no European —
2H

466 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

and certainly neither George nor I—would have
submitted for a moment to being bound by our
people, and led as prisoners to the coast. Such an
action had never been attempted in the history of
African exploration. It was quite possible, judging
from the whole series of Hamidi’s actions after his
return from Zanzibar, considering the method in
which my instructions had been carried out there —
the fact that, instead of twenty well-armed men and
some donkeys, I had been furnished with a disorderly
rabble of eighty unarmed and insubordinate men —
that he must have received something stronger than
a hint that such was the pleasure of the people in
power at the coast. I was unwilling to come to such
a conclusion, but reason is cogent. The reader can
see that. I frankly state the impressions made upon
me at the time; I would gladly erase them not only
from my mind, but from this record. Unfortunately
this is impossible; for the events which occurred
after my arrival at Zanzibar, and the treatment I
there received at the hands of the local authorities,
enforced the opinion that, strange though these im-
pressions may appear, nevertheless they are very near
the truth.

My one idea was to get to the coast quickly,
clear up the whole matter connected with the deser-
tion of the men, and relieve the anxiety of my
friends at home. Nothing but the return of Hassan
and his men from Sayer prevented immediate depart-
ure. It was with feelings of anything but pleasure,
that I daily regarded my storehouses filled with
sufficient food for a large caravan for many days,

x TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 467

and looked at the large pile of carefully packed
trading-goods; all of which were of no further use to
me. Setting aside the thought of the destruction of
my hopes, I knew that these trading-goods and the
stores of food represented an expenditure exceeding
g9000 -(U. S. money).’ In fact, I doubt—whether
they could have been got together and _ transported
to Daitcho for that sum.

On January 7 I called the traders, and distributed
among them many loads of my goods. It was matter
of some amusement to note their reception of the
articles. Their thanks were given in a most perfunc-
tory way, and they took it for granted that my action
was only just and proper. Hassan had been gone
fifteen days, and to my mind (by this time suspicious
of everything) it seemed probable that he did not in-
tend to return, but had decided to cast his lot with
the traders, and make use of the goods and food I
had left at Sayer to trade on his own account among
the Wanderobbo. Two members of the Zanzibari
caravan came to me on this day, and said they wished
to return to the coast; and I gladly enlisted them.

On January 8 I called Bykender, and told him to
bring as many of the natives of Daitcho as he could
gather together, as I wished to distribute among them
several tons of food, which I had stored in my gran-
ary. Soon the place in front of the zeriba was black
with people, particularly women, who brought with
them bags and other receptacles for carrying away
the grain. Nearly three tons of beans and flour was
given out to them, and they went away, not rejoic-
ing or apparently grateful, but more or less disap-

468 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

pointed at the small quantity which each had received.
The Daitcho are most improvident, and I fancy those
who had laid in a store for a rainy day could be
counted on one’s fingers.

I told Bykender, my friend, and Beri-Beri, one who
had achieved an unenviable position through his skill
as a poisoner, to come to my camp on the following
day and receive a present of cloth. The next day
they came, and after I had given to each of them a
present, I built a great fire, and destroyed all the am-
munition of small caliber. The .577 cartridges, how-
ever, I was afraid to burn, and so buried them in a
deep hole, which I dug. At dawn on January 9 the
rising sun was quite eclipsed by the great blaze from
my pile of trading-goods —food in tins, pickles, sauces,
desiccated fruits, tea, coffee, soup, broadcloth, silk, plaid
shawls, hundreds of yards of American sheeting, hun-
dreds of pounds of beads and wire, and in fact, sup-
ples sufficient for an expedition of roo men journeying
two years in the interior of Africa. In twenty min-
utes the result of a large expenditure of money and
months of care and forethought had ceased to be. I
burned up my things, rather than distribute them
among the natives, for the reason that, if the natives
of Daitcho had become possessed of all of my trading-
goods, no caravan poorly equipped, as the poverty of
the promoters compels, would have been able to pur-
chase food and supplies in that country for years to
come. It is true, I might have exchanged my trad-
ing-goods for ivory. The natives of this mountain
have a certain quantity of this valuable article, which
they dole out little by little to traders. But my time

x TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 469

was limited, and if I had begun ivory-trading, I
should undoubtedly have given enormous prices in
order to expedite trade. This too would have mili-
tated against the poor traders for many years to come,
by depriving them of their just profits; for if one
native receives a high price for an article such as a
tusk, all expect the same.

It was utterly impossible for me with the limited
force at my command to carry back the trading-goods
to the coast. I had endeavoured to bargain with the
Zanzibari traders then at Daitcho to remain in charge
of my goods, until I reached the coast, and should
send back for them; but these traders were all slaves,
and said their masters would not permit them to
spend their time, unless I would pay them a sum
almost equal in value to the trading-goods. I knew,
moreover, that, if I left these slaves in charge of my
goods, they would day by day melt away. Even if
tne men left in charge of them:‘:did*not steal them,
should I send an expedition for them, no native or
Arab headman could be found at the coast, who
would be able to resist the temptation of using the
trading-goods himself. Then he would return to the
coast, and state that, unfortunately, when he reached
Daitcho, he had found the camp pillaged by the natives.

I had given up hope of seeing Hassan return with
the men I had left at the food station at Sayer; never-
theless, I left in charge of Bykender sufficient trading-
goods to enable them to reach the coast in safety
and comfort should they turn up.

On this day a member of the Wakamba tribe, who
had been trading with the Daitcho people, came to

470 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

me, and expressed his willingness to act as guide
through his country. The addition of this man would
raise our force to eighteen men, and, those of my
men who bore burdens being lightly laden, I counted
on long marches and reaching the coast in a month.
From Daitcho to Mombasa via the mission station
at Kibwezi, allowing for the fact that the road to the
last-mentioned point was far from straight, the dis-
tance is at least 450 miles.

On the morning of January ro I woke at 4.30,
and set all hands to work loading the few donkeys
and cattle we had. Since the desertion of the men
I had been able to buy ten of these animals; and
these, added to those I had brought back from the
Rendile, were sufficient to carry almost all of the few
supplies I had reserved for our homeward journey.
By 5.45 A.M. the zeriba was surrounded by hundreds
of natives, who only waited for our departure, before
they plundered the camp of every stick and stone.

Before setting out, I took a long survey of this
place, which had been the home for members of my
caravan at different times for nine months. The zeriba
had been made of mimosa posts, on which the bark
had been left; these had taken root in the rich soil,
and owing to the rains were then covered with a mass
of verdure. As soon as our little force left the camp,
and before the natives had entered it, it presented a
wofully deserted appearance. The fresh green of the
sprouting zeriba seemed to testify that the work of
our hands was going to be more or less permanent,
and that this camp might prove of service to some
future traveller who might visit Daitcho. I cheered

x TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 471

myself with the thought that our visit to this coun-
try had not been in vain; for from the relations which
we had maintained with the natives, our victory over
the Wamsara, the treaty we had made with the Embe,
and the kind manner in which we had treated the
natives of Daitcho, I felt’ convinced that the next
European visiting these places would meet with far
less difficulty than had been our lot.

I am happy to say, such has already proved to be
the case. Daitcho has been visited by a European,
who not only found these people friendly, but also
met with a hearty welcome from the Embe; and, ac-
companied by but twenty men, was enabled to spend
many days shooting in the country of the Wamsara,
without meeting aught but kindest treatment. Daitcho
at least, if not the greater portion of the Jombeni
range, is now almost open for missionary effort; but
I hope many years will elapse before such effort is
put forth. Although I have the greatest respect for
those noble men who sacrifice their comfort, and in
many cases their lives, for the propagation of the
Gospel, yet I am not of that number who are _thor-
oughly convinced that the missionary is the best agent
for the introduction of civilization into a savage country.
First, let the natives be thoroughly convinced of the
European’s superiority in strength and intellect; and
teach them the advantages to be derived from honest
trade with the European; then will the propagator of
the Gospel find his seed falling upon much more fertile
ground, and growing with less difficulty and to a greater
height, than if he had scattered it with never so lavish
a hand upon the sterile soil of purely savage natures.

472 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

At 6.30 of this day we set out for the coast. Four
of the Daitcho villagers accompanied us, and said they
were the vanguard of many of their brethren who
wished to follow us to Ukambani to trade.

Before destroying all my _ trading-goods, I had
divided the more valuable among my followers. My
Somali, who considered it beneath their dignity to
carry loads of any sort, foolishly entrusted seven
of the parcels I had given them to the four Daitcho
people who had accompanied us. When we reached
camp at night, they were filled with chagrin and fury,
upon finding that these natives had disappeared with
their property. The Somali wished me to return at
once to Daitcho, and lay the country waste with fire
and sword; and were much grieved when I refused
to comply with their desire.

On the second day out from Daitcho I met a party
of fifty Wakamba, who helped us to cross the Ura River;
in return for which I gave them a nice present.
They reported that the deserters had stolen all the
trading-goods I had left at Ukambani, and made off
with most of the goats, but left the more feeble of these
and all the donkeys in charge of Abdee Achmet, a
Somali, whom they brutally ill used because he refused
to join in the desertion.

The following day I was forced to make but a short
march, and camp in the bed of a stream, because Ma-
homet Aman and George’s tent-boy had disappeared.
Their companions, upon being questioned, said that
the two men had felt unwell, and had lain down under
a tree soon after leaving camp in the morning. How-
ever, they had not thought it worth the while to notify

Xx TRAVELS [N EASTERN AFRICA 473

me of this fact; so I had marched for hours before be-
coming aware of the absence of these men. This trait
of secrecy among the negroes of Africa—the firmly
impressed characteristic of never volunteering informa-
tion of any sort, no matter how important or interesting
—ereatly increases the difficulty experienced in deal-
ing with them. Of course, as soon as I became aware
of the absence of these two men, I halted the caravan
and sent back for them. They did not reach camp
until late that night, and came in looking the picture
of woe. I do not think they were really ill, but the
loss of their goods so filled their minds that they
sought occasion to return to Daitcho and _ recover
them.

That night many hyenas howled about our camp,
and toward morning the air resounded with a curious
cry, something like the bleating of a goat. I did not
hear this until I was awakened by one of the Somali,
who told me that the noise was cause by a “shaitan”
(devil) of the most evil propensities, and that it boded
no good for the caravan. I frankly told him to go
to the devil, and not disturb me; whereupon he
retired, and soon devoted all his energies and the
power of his lungs to chanting the few verses of the
Koran with which he was acquainted, in order to
overcome the machinations of the Evil One. It was
in vain that I assured him that the noises were
caused by a bird of some kind, or a young monkey.
He shook his head, said he knew better, and added
that in all probability a few days hence not one of
us would be found alive. I looked at my watch
and saw that it was three o’clock; and as I intended

474 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

making a long march on the morrow, I told him
that unless he checked his desire to pray, at least
in such stentorian tones, he would receive prompt
punishment. I found this threat effective; and, in
fact, it may be stated as an axiom, that in Africa the
fear of physical suffering will, in most natives, over-
come the greatest superstitious dread.

An hour’s march from our camp in the river-bed,
and we reached a stream called Langalla. This,
about the size of the Ura, flows from the most south-
ern portion of the Jombeni range, and empties into
the Tana River some distance below the ford. All
loads and saddles had to be removed from the backs
of the donkeys, and carried across the stream, which
necessitated a delay of two and one-half hours. Two
hours’ further marching, and I reached the ford on
the Tana, at that point at least three-eighths of a mile
wide, and dotted with small rocky islands, between
which, through five rock-strewn channels, flows the
river. Many of the channels were broad and deep,
and crossing them was difficult. I sent a man to the
place where I had left the canoe, to see if by any
chance the runaways had not destroyed it. He re-
ported that the canoe was safe, high and dry on the
far bank; but that the paddles, which we had made
with such pains and care, had disappeared. Shortly
after noon I was glad to meet forty Wakamba, who
had just crossed the ford, who offered for a considera-
tion to assist us in placing all our men and_ beasts
on the island nearest the farther bank. They said
that their people, of whom more than one-half had
already crossed the Tana for the purpose of shooting,

x TRAVELS [IN EASTERN AFRICA 475

trading, and raiding the country to the north, had
constructed a bridge of light withes, sufficiently strong
for them to cross, but utterly insufficient for laden
porters or donkeys. With the assistance of these
natives we found our beasts and burdens landed
shortly before dark on the island nearest the farther
bank. The crossing of the streams flowing through the
different channels was a difficult matter. Ofttimes we
were completely submerged, and it was with the great-
est difficulty that we managed to get the donkeys and
few cattle we had with us across. Four men _ took
charge of each beast, two at its head and two at its
tail. When they reached mid-stream, where the
water was quite up to the men’s chins, the force of
the current drove the animal along, and it required
almost superhuman efforts on the part of the men _ to
prevent the animal, as well as themselves, from disap-
pearing beneath the flood.

The next day I awoke at dawn, and went to look
at the cataract, whose roar had lulled me to sleep
during the night. Just above the end of the island
upon which we were encamped, the river-bed fell
some thirty feet, and over this ledge roared the
Tana; below this it was forced by jagged rocks to
divide its waters into three streams. Two of these,
which are nearest the island, fall twenty feet, pass-
ing on both sides of a sheer mass of gray stone.
There the water boiled and roared, and a_ blinding
mist filled the air. At this point the stream was
spanned by a few loosely tied withes and poles.

Such was the crossing-place. Nature never intended
it to be thus used, I felt sure; and it seemed a satire

476 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP. X

on her and her efforts, when foolish negroes tri-
umphed over her by the use of a twig or two.

I swayed myself over the flimsy bridges and found
a third stream, in which the water rushed swiftly; but
it was shallow, and, as the Wakamba had placed a
guide rope across it, we reached the further bank
without difficulty. The second of the two streams
was worse, and threw up more spray; so I decided
not to cross it by the bridge, but to go over by
means of the rocks, until I reached a spot near the
first falls, where, the stream being wider and the cur-
rent less swift, I thought I might swim the beasts
across. The whole day was spent in engineering
work, and by dark I had constructed two strong
bridges across the chasms thirty and _ thirty-five feet
wide respectively, and had placed a guide rope across
the stream where it was necessary to swim the beasts.
The construction of this bridge I found to be a mat-
ter of the greatest difficulty, unskilled as I was in
engineering. We could not span the stream with a
single log; so it was necessary first to run a log as
far as possible over the stream, then to creep slowly
and cautiously to the end of this log and seize
another and_ slighter pole shoved toward one from
the rear, which was bound to the end of the first log
so strongly that it was able to support it. Numbers
of small poles were added to this, until at length a
man was able to cross. With this as a base, we man-
aged to construct a bridge ten feet wide, and strong
enough to bear the weight of our donkeys and cattle.

At 5.30 a.m. the following day the men were set to
work carrying the loads across. The twenty donkeys

Wf

i

f

14
y UU

ly, —
GME. Ye 0
Se

yi Y Uf U/ ty,
UY, ’W

Y We,
V 4. G
YY

BRIDGE ACROSS THE TANA

TURAL

“i

CHAP. X TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 479

carried forty loads between them; so my few men had
their work cut out for them. The Somali worked
splendidly. At 8.30 we began to take over the cattle;
these gave us no trouble, seeming to have faith in us.
The donkeys proved conservative of their character-
istic obstinacy, and much effort had to be expended
in inducing them to cross. One by one they were
dragged on the structure, and, forced behind by four
men and pulled in front by four others, we at length
landed them upon the slippery rocks. They had to
be dragged and pushed in the same manner, until they
reached the last stream, and were finally landed on the
bank of the river, reeking wet and seemingly stunned
by the fact that they were now across what had ap-
peared to their dull minds as an entirely impassable
place. We reached the opposite bank at 3.30 in the
afternoon, tired out by the exertions of the past two
days.

We had scarcely encamped when the sound of rifle
shots near by told us of the arrival of Hassan and
the men we had left at Sayer. They had been gone
twenty-two days from Daitcho. Of course, they had
numberless excuses in explanation of their delay, but
the truth was plain—they had taken it easy. When
a day or two out from Sayer, they had met a party of
Wamsara, who had come to them in the most friendly
manner, and asked them the whereabouts of the Ren-
dile, as they wished to raid them. Hassan told them,
and then the leader of the Wamsara asked him if he
thought their party sufficiently strong to make a suc-
cessful attack upon the Rendile. Hassan said it de-
pended upon the courage they possessed, as well as

480 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

their skill in battle. After further questioning on the
part of the Wamsara chieftain, the raiders decided that
discretion was the better part of valour, and concluded
to return home to their country without attempting to
increase their wealth by raiding a people who, from
Hassan’s account, appeared well able to take care of
themselves.

Upon arriving at Daitcho, Hassan said that he
found the entire surrounding country in a state of
excitement, and that his appearance was greeted with
shouts of fear and terror. After reaching the village
of Bykender, where he was warmly welcomed, the
cause of the excitement was disclosed. Several of the
loads of brass and iron wire, which I was unable to
carry, I had buried in the neighbourhood of my camp
at Daitcho, and, in order to prevent the natives from
stealing it, I had told them it was protected by a spell,
which would have the most disastrous effect upon
them, should they venture to dig up the things I had
buried. With the wire I had also buried a few .577
cartridges. The natives had hardly waited until I was
out of sight, ere greed overmastered their caution, and
they dug up the wire, divided it among themselves,
and carried it away to their villages—at the same
time taking with them all the .577 ammunition.

The people of Daitcho were very fond of the brass
shells of cartridges, which they converted into snuff-
boxes, and when they saw these cartridges they at
once appropriated them for the purpose aforesaid.
But their rude tools and lack of skill proved inade-
quate for the extraction of the bullets from the shells.
Finally some inventive genius suggested that they put

x TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 481

them in a fire, and for that purpose a large one was
built, and they all gathered around it to watch the
result of the experiment. Of course, the cartridges
exploded, and, I regret to record, with unpleasant
results to the Daitcho; three were killed, and five or
six severely wounded. At once, those not so fortu-
nate as to have possessed themselves of any of the
wire or cartridges, reminded the wounded and _ the
friends of the dead of what I had told them before I
set out, and the minds of these credulous people forth-
with accounted for the explosion by the terrible spell
which I had pronounced over the goods upon burying
them. During the following day all those who had
stolen the goods and wire returned them to Bykender,
with whom they left them to await my return, fearing
to keep the smallest possible quantity.

FZ
LE oa

a=

21

CHAPTER-XI

THE next day we left the Tana, and after a short
march reached Mitio’s village. Mitio was a great
man in this part of Ukambani. At the time I arrived
at this village he had gone with 600 warriors to fight
the Rendile, in revenge for their slaughter of twenty
of his men during the previous autumn. There I
found my faithful Somali, Abdee Achmet, who had
been left by George in charge of the donkeys. He
had been deserted by his companions, and he had
with him then twenty-five donkeys and _ forty-three
goats. His account of the appearance and behaviour
of the runaways was as follows.

He said that at first there came some sixty porters
led by Mwalim Hamis, who was their leader on the
day they deserted from Daitcho. These men fired
repeated volleys, and then took all the food he had
bought for me,—about 500 pounds. Two days later
came the Beloochi and their party, who had been
ferried across the Tana in our canoe, upon payment
of all their trading-goods. Gwaharam said he had
wished to return and help me; but Hamidi said he
would shoot him if he attempted to cross the river.
Hamidi stayed at the river until the Soudanese came,
and then, four days after the porters arrived at Mitio’s
village, Hamidi and the Soudanese put in an appear-

482

CHAP. XI TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 483

ance. The Soudanese told their story about the
chains; moreover, they said that their time was up.

Upon Hamidi’s arrival at Mitio’s village, he at once
cut up the loads George had left there for me, and
divided them among his men. Abdee Achmet and
Gwaharam remonstrated with him, but Hamidi insisted
upon taking them; whereupon Gwaharam said: “ I
will bear witness to your conduct at the coast.” Then
the men cut up all the ox-hides I had left for donkey
saddles. When Abdee Achmet remonstrated, some of
the men threatened to shoot him. He said the men
seemed to throw aside all restraint, and to be gov-
erned by no particular impulse. Some were for going
down the Tana to join the Arab, Suliman Kemenya,
and, becoming his followers, to wage war against the
English. Others, already timid at the behaviour of
their companions, and doubtful whether they should
receive any pay at the coast, wished to return to me
at Daitcho; but the counsels of Hamidi and his ring-
leaders prevailed, and the whole party, after a stop of
one day at Mitio’s village, marched for Mombasa.
Hamidi said that the reason they had left me was
that their time was up, and that he was convinced
he should get his pay either from General Matthews
or the Sultan of Zanzibar.

At Mitio’s village we remained one day purchasing
food. All this portion of Ukambani is in a capital
state of cultivation, two kinds of millet being staples;
but there are also many plantations of Indian corn
and pumpkins. Before we set out from this place
two or three men came to me and offered their ser-
vices as guides; which offer we foolishly accepted.

484 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

They led us in a roundabout way through a tangled
mass of bush and over dried watercourses, and then
deserted us. Their purpose in this was to prevent
our passage through their plantations, as Zanzibari
caravans in so doing usually robbed them.

SSS

——
Ss
SSS
—

WAKAMBA MEDICINE-MEN

Two days’ march from this village we entered a
beautiful rolling country, which was formerly thickly
populated by natives, but was then deserted. Emi-
gration was caused by the continued raids of the
Masai.

XI TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 485

The Wakamba at this place appear to be a fine,
hardy race. They are not particularly well built, but
seem capable of undergoing severest fatigue. Their
weapons are bows and arrows. The manners of
the Wakamba among themselves are almost polite,
particularly in the courtesies which pass between the
men and women. Among them the women seem to
occupy a much higher position than in other tribes
of East Africa. When a young man met a young
woman, he invariably made a wide detour in passing,
to avoid blocking her way.

On the road I met an old man, who related to me
a strange story. He said that eight years before, 120
men started after ivory, and after reaching Lake Ru-
dolph they continued their march for three months
beyond it; when all at once they came in sight of
a large lake with an island in its centre: On the
island was a town composed of stone houses, such
as those at the coast; and at sight of the Wakamba
many canoes set out from the island to meet them.

The canoes were filled with people who wore gar-
ments made of a rough cloth used by the Galla, and
wore long hair. They spoke the Swahili language,
and at once asked for news of their brethren at the
coast. There was plenty of ivory in the country,
and the people were most friendly. They carried long
guns.. Near that village lived a tribe of Wakamba,
with similar language and customs to the Wakamba
in these parts.

My informant told me that these people were the
remains of a large expedition, which many years before
had set out from the coast, and had become so thinned

486 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

out by disease, that they did not consider themselves
strong enough to return through the dangerous country
lying between them and their homes. They had there-
fore settled down, hoping that at some time they would
be able to reach their homes again by going with some
caravan bound to the coast. Years rolled by, and no
saviour came; so they married with women of the
neighbouring tribes, and relinquished their idea of return-
ing to the coast. The entire story was in all probability
purest fiction, and it is related only for the purpose
of conveying an impression of the vivid imaginations
possessed by the natives of East Africa.

On the 20th of January we reached a group of
villages called Kitinga. There the natives were dif-
ferent from those we had before met. They filed four
of their front teeth to points, and from a belt they
wore there was suspended a narrow cloth in front
and behind. As the moon was full, we held market
during the night, and bought a quantity of food at
very low prices. The country between Tana and
Kitinga was rolling, beautiful enough, and in a-fair
state of cultivation; but from that point the appearance
of the country underwent a remarkable change. The
surface was broken by a number of very steep, grass-
covered mountains. In the multitude of valleys, villages
were much more numerous, and what portion of the
soil was not under cultivation was given up to the
pasturage of cattle, sheep, and goats.

The natives of this portion of Ukambani were very
cheerful in disposition; they sat in numbers in the
shade, comfortably watching their flocks and_ herds.
Occasionally the sound of a reed-pipe was heard, and

XI TRAVELS [IN EASTERN AFRICA 487

one might see a youth rendering rude music to a gath-
ering of his fellows. The very atmosphere seemed
impregnated with peace and friendship; and even the
many drunkards to be found reeling about seemed
cheery, and anxious to exchange greetings with the
European. This peace-and-good-will attitude was not
the result of missionary effort, as they had not been
visited by the preacher of the Gospel, but of the
repeated thrashings given these people by the British,
who had a station not far away, called Iveti. There
is no doubt that with Africans severity must come first,
and then kindness. The place was a veritable Switzer-
land in miniature. One day’s march from this we
again reached the rolling country.

On the afternoon of January 22 we reached a village
ruled by a chief named Mwyru. There was a flag
flying, and we ascertained it to ‘be a trading-post
owned by a Scotchman named Dick, who lived at
Mombasa. It formerly was under the management
of Mr. Dick’s brother; but he had died a short time
before, and was then buried within the confines of
the station. In charge of the station at the time of
our visit was an English-speaking negro, named David,
who had been educated at the mission at Zanzibar.
I had last seen this man in the chain-gang at Witu,
on the coast, where he had been placed on account
of his continued thefts and general lawlessness. The
view from this village was beautiful—a wide plain
stretching on all sides, shut in far to the west by blue
mountains and the Kikuyu hills. At sunrise and just
before sunset both Kenya and Kilimanjiro were vis-

ible.

488 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

Here we saw a large party of traders from Giriama,
a country not far from Mombasa. Formerly they feared
to come to this place, but at this time they could trade
in security. They said they were not afraid to go any-
where, provided European influence had rendered the
natives peaceful. I was told that this place was a
slave-trading centre, and that caravans which had been

» y \

DICK’S GRAVE AT MWyYRU

trading at Kikuyu, and had acquired slaves, sold them
here for goats and cattle. The Wakamba were the
purchasers, and they employed them in work upon
their plantations. The price of a good-looking Masai
or Kikuyu girl was three goats. They also had a few
Galla slaves. The inhabitants of Kikuyu are a most
treacherous lot, and since the British East Africa Com-
pany established stations in the neighbourhood they
have behaved in the most hostile manner. The day

XI TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 489

after I arrived at Mwyru’s, two Zanzibari turned up,
covered with wounds. They said they were the sole
survivors of a party of thirty traders, who had spent
the preceding three months in the purchase of slaves
and ivory from the Kikuyu. After setting out on
their way home, and when two days’ march from the
confines of the Kikuyu territory, they were fallen
upon at night, their property stolen, and all but them-
selves slain.

As soon as my arrival at Mwyru’s village became
known, several slaves ran to my camp, and craved my
assistance for them to return to their people. Those
who lived far away I could do nothing for, but two
of them were Kikuyu women, and I knew that I could
take them to the mission at Kibwezi, whence they
could be forwarded to Kikuyu by one of the British
trading caravans marching in that direction.

On January 24 we set out from Mwyru’s. We had
hardly left the village ere the air was filled with
shouts, and a party of from 500 to 600 Wakamba ap-
peared. They sent a party of their old men to us,
for the purpose of insisting upon a return of the
slaves. I asked the women if they wished to return;
but they shuddered, and said “No.” So I refused to
give them up; whereupon the Wakamba gave vent
to fierce shouts, placed their arrows in their bows, and
the old men made a dash at the women as though to
seize them. My caravan by this time had proceeded
on its way, and was almost out of sight; but I had
two men with me. We laid about us with the butts of
our rifles, and soon had the old men flying back to their
companions. Luckily not an arrow was discharged.

490 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

As we marched along, all the Wakamba we met
appeared sullen, and the guides we had taken with us
said that they would surely come at night and rescue
the slaves. At the end of the day’s march we camped
in a small valley, and all night long our sleep was
broken by continued shouting and bawling of war-
songs. The natives of the neighbouring villages came
to us hour by hour, each bringing a small present of
milk, or perhaps a goat. This they did from fear
that if we were attacked by the natives, and they
had not previously made friendly overtures, we would
wreak vengeance upon them. They said that all the
inhabitants of the villages of Mwyru were encamped
near us, and vowed to fall upon us and take back the
slaves. However, the demonstration amounted to noth-
ing but bluster.

We made an early start the following morning, and

g
after a few hours’ march reached a village presided
over by a dwarf, named Mgundu. This little fellow
was not more than three feet high, and spoke Swahili
fluently. He said that he had been on several ex-
peditions to the coast. He showed me his wives
(women, if anything, above the average height) and
his children, who were tall and well-developed speci-
mens. He was a freak of nature. He was reputed
to be a great warrior; but owing to his short stature
it was necessary, when he went to battle, for his sons
to carry a high stool for him, upon which he stood,
and from which he could discharge his arrows above
the tall grass. I wished to take his photograph, but
he refused, saying I would be able to kill him by
stabbing the picture with a knife. I thereupon

xI TRAVELS [IN EASTERN AFRICA 491

offered to become blood brothers with him, and
assured him, that our lives would then be as one;
and that, as I was a much younger man, it meant
that in all probability
he would live to a
great old age. This
seemed to tickle him,
and he allowed me
to take several photo-
graphs of him. As
soon as he saw the
slaves, he became very
anery, shook his baby
fist, and threatened
war; but as his threats
met with laughter

only, he went away
much disgruntled.
The next day we
had a long march
before us, so we started early. We marched until just
before sundown, and then rested until moonrise, when
we again set out, intending to march all night. At
about two in the morning I came upon a camp of
sleeping people, and seeing a European tent I went
to it, and awoke its occupant, who proved to be a Mr.
Neumann, bound upon an ivory-trading expedition to
Daitcho. It was delightful to see him—the first
European except the members of my caravan whom I
had met since leaving the coast in September, 1892,
and this was January, 1894. We sat up until eight
o'clock the following morning, talking and chatting;

MGUNDU

492 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

and with him I smoked, for the first time since leaving
civilization, some excellent Havana cigars, and drank
also a pint of dry champagne. At seven o'clock I
had sent my caravan on its way, and Mr. Neumann
had started his. At eight we were about to shake
hands, and go our several directions, when two of the
members of his caravan came hurrying back, saying
that the natives had attacked them.

George and I, followed by the two boys, returned
with Mr. Neumann, and ascertained the attack to
have consisted in the discharge of a couple of arrows,
which had fallen harmlessly far from Mr. Neumann’s
men. At first, I thought this might have been
caused by the fact that I had taken the slaves; but
upon inquiry I learned that it was because some of
Mr. Neumann’s men had on the previous day plun-
dered the plantations of the Wakamba inhabiting the
neighbourhood of his camp. The difficulty was soon
smoothed over, and, wishing each other good luck,
we shook hands and separated. During the follow-
ing year I saw several letters from Mr. Neumann,
which had been published in 7%e Field, of London.
From these it appeared that he had had excellent
sport shooting, and, I am happy to say, had found
the natives of the Jombeni range most friendly to
him, although he was accompanied by but a small
force.

On the afternoon of January 27 I reached the
German mission station, Ikutha. It is usually occu-
pied by two missionaries, but I found only one at
home: the other had gone with a party of the
British East Africa Company’s men to free some

XI TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 493

slaves. The mission station at Ikutha is pleasantly
situated on the side of a hill which slopes down to a
small stream called the Tiva River. It is surrounded
by a well-kept garden; and there was, of course, the
inevitable and neat grave, wherein reposed the last
remains of some European.

I cannot say that during my short stay at Ikutha
I was much impressed with the degree of interest
taken in religion by the natives. The mission was
supplied with a sweet-toned bell, and three times
daily was it tolled. It sounded delightfully peaceful
in my ears, but did not seem to have any effect
upon the natives, for none came at its summons.
The Wakamba people are so happy in their exist-
ence, so free from trouble of any type, that I fancy
it is a most difficult matter to interest them with
thoughts of a future life; but the missionaries at
Ikutha are loyally performing their work, and if
they do not succeed in caring for the souls of the
natives, they at least do a good deal of good for
their bodies with medicines. Daily the mission is
surrounded by a number of sick and ailing, who are
treated as well as the supplies of the mission permit.

At 2 p.m. January 30, we reached Kibwezi mission,
and there found the missionaries, Mr. Watson and
Dr. Charters. It was.Dr. Charters who had operated
on Lieutenant von Hohnel and started him on the
road to recovery before sending him to the coast.
The mission station at Kibwezi is the most beautiful
of any I had seen in Africa. Through its grounds
flows the Kibwezi River, the waters of which are ice-
cold and clear as crystal. All the houses are built

494 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

in a substantial manner, and the gardens are laid
out and tended most carefully. They are under the
supervision of a lay missionary, a Scotchman. The
mission was founded by the beneficence of Sir Wil-
liam McKinnon, and its purpose was a most practical
one. The idea of its founder was that it should prove
a means of educating the people as well as of converting
them; and to this end men equipped to teach them
industries of a practical nature had been sent out for
its management. At the time I visited it, however,
the natives had not as yet shown much interest in
the efforts of their teachers; but I suppose the in-
terest, though delayed, will come in time.

Dr. Charters was a most interesting man. He had
spent six years on the Congo, and while there had
taken Stanley and a part of the Relief Expedition as
far as Yambuya, on the little mission steamer “ Peace.”
He was the best equipped missionary I have ever seen,
being a clergyman, a practical engineer, and a doctor
of medicine.

Poor Dr. Charters! His end was a sad one. In
September of the year I met him (1894) he, in com-
pany with a Scotchman named Colquhoun and a few
men, went on a shooting-trip in the neighbourhood
of the mission. They never returned. It is supposed
that they were slain by a party of raiding Masai, for
the exact manner of their death could never be
ascertained.

If more missionaries like Dr. Charters could be
sent to Africa, I feel convinced that the task of
raising the standard of native life would be a much
easier one. He was devoted to his work, and from

XI TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 495

his long experience in Africa had learned (what it
is impossible to teach missionaries fresh from home)
that the native must first of all be taught to work a
little harder than is absolutely necessary to support
life; this fills the native with an interest in his future
life on this earth. Then, and not until then, is he
ripe for religious instruction.

At this mission station I left the two slaves I had
freed at Ukambani— Dr. Charters offering to care
for them, and send them home by the first caravan
passing toward Kikuyu.

I was told that Hamidi had been employed in the
construction of this mission some years before, but
owing to his fondness for intrigue against the Euro-
peans he had been sent away. I wished that I had
known this before I engaged him; but alas! it is
almost impossible in Africa to learn the character of
one’s men until acquired by painful experience.

From Kibwezi to Mombasa there stretches a cap-
ital road, fifteen feet wide and clear of all brush. It
was a great treat to us to find a smooth road under
our feet, and to be relieved from all anxiety as to
water. Mile-posts were placed along the side of the
road, and the whereabouts of water was ascertained
from large painted sign-boards. The distance from
Kibwezi mission to Mombasa is just 200 miles, and
this we accomplished without undue effort in less
than ten days. The march was uneventful. At a
place called Voi, about half-way to the coast, we came
to the camp of Mr. Wilson, who was employed in the
road-making. He had under him a few Zanzibari, but
most of the work was done by a force of over 200

496 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

Teita people. These Teita people had for years been
a thorn in the side of travellers passing through their
country. A missionary had been stationed among
them five or six years, but he had been unable in
any way to soften their hard and worthless natures.

RAMAZAN AND MGUNDU

When I passed through Teita on my former jour-
ney to Kilimanjiro, I met a party of ivory traders
who had just been robbed by these people. They
inhabit a range of mountains called Bura, and are
perhaps 10,000 in number. They possess a few flocks

XI TRAVELS [VN EASTERN AFRICA 497

of sheep and goats, and live almost entirely by agri-
culture. In physique and habits they are very much
akin to the Wakamba, though less daring. I have
found it almost invariably to be the case in East
Africa that those natives who inhabit the hilly coun-
try (possibly because in their homes they feel greater
security from attack) seem to have in great degree
lost the manliness and independence of character
which go in great measure to redeem the disagreeable
traits of the inhabitants of the plains.

The Teita people are very superstitious. One story
which reached my ears concerning their religious
beliefs is worthy of mention. Some years ago their
country had been visited by a devastating drought,
in consequence of which they were threatened with
starvation. The wise men assembled, and for days
discussed the probable cause of the drought and the
means adapted to hastening its end. These people
worship their ancestors, and one of the rites of this
worship is carefully to heap the skulls of the de-
ceased males of the tribe in piles near their villages.
While casting about for the cause of the drought,
one old man suggested that they count the skulls
of their ancestors. This was done, and to their
horror they found many were missing. To appease
the wrath of these familiars, the Teita people decided
to slay sheep and add their skulls to the piles of
their ancestors. This was done, and immediately the
flood-gates of the heavens opened, and the drought
ceased.

The capital condition of the road from the mission
to the coast is owing entirely to the efforts and intel-

2K

498 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

ligence of Mr. Wilson. He had scant means at his
disposal, but the force of his individual efforts added
to these has changed what was in former years one
of the most disagreeable and difficult marches in
Africa, to a journey which can be accomplished with
perfect ease by a woman. I found that he, too, exces-
sively disliked to use negroes as porters, and as a
means of obviating it had begun to use bullocks and
donkeys as a means of transport. Although he had
lost several by fly, nevertheless he had been success-
ful enough to satisfy himself that it was not only
possible, but also cheaper, to do without porters.

On Saturday, February 10, at noon, just thirty days
from Daitcho, we arrived at Mombasa. Of the thirty
days, five had been spent in resting upon the road;
so that the distance (450 miles) had been accom-
plished in twenty-five days. To my surprise, upon
reaching Mombasa, I found that the runaways had
not been detained, but had been sent to Zanzibar at
my expense by dhow. The authorities at Mombasa
seemed somewhat chagrined at my surprise, and said
they could have done nothing else. In this connec-
tion I will say that their behaviour was entirely with-
out precedent. Hamidi and the deserters had reached
Mombasa without letters of any sort from me; yet
the authorities had seen fit to accept his statements,
and treat him and the men not as deserters, but as
people worthy of every consideration and assistance.
I waited at Mombasa five days for a steamer, then
left for Zanzibar.

Upon reaching Zanzibar, I found that no steps
had been taken to arrest my men; but, on the con-

XI TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 499

trary, they had been sent to my agent by General
Sir Lloyd Matthews, who directed him to supply the
men with food at my expense until the time I should
arrive. I rented a comfortable Arab stone house just
off the main street of the town, and therein established
myself with such of my followers as had remained
faithful to me.

I found that the American Consul, Mr. Jones, who
had been in charge of the interests of the United States
in 1892, had left Zanzibar, and that Mr. Allen was
at that time acting: Consul. Mr. Allen had been
less than two years in Zanzibar, during which time
he was in charge of the mercantile house of Arnold,
Cheny & Co. of New York. Prior to his arrival
there he had had no experience in diplomacy or con-
sular matters; but throughout the time I remained
in Zanzibar he showed himself thoroughly equipped
for such work, and did all in his power to look after
the interests of his Government, and to prevent my
being treated with injustice.

A short time after reaching Zanzibar I paid a visit
to General Sir Lloyd Matthews, who was Prime
Minister to the Sultan’s government. During my
absence up-country Great Britain had declared a_pro-
tectorate over the islands of Zanzibar and Pemba;
and, as an easy mode of ruling these islands, had made
use of the machinery of the native government, which
was controlled and directed by means of General Mat-
thews, the Sultan’s Prime Minister, who in turn was
controlled by the British Agent and Consul-General.

Unfortunately for me, Mr. Rennell Rodd, who had
succeeded to the post of British Agent and Consul-

500 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

General upon the death of Sir Gerald Portal, had
been forced to leave Zanzibar on account of illness,
and at the time of my arrival in Zanzibar, affairs there
were managed by General Matthews and the acting
British Agent and Consul-General, a Mr. Cracknell,
who for many years had been the judge of the
British Consular Court. Had there been a regularly
accredited agent in Zanzibar when I arrived, I feel
certain that the difficulties I met with would. not
have occurred; but owing to the fact that affairs were
in the hands of men who had been for many years
inhabitants of the coast of East Africa, and as a
natural result of long stays had become in large
measure Arabized in character, I found that instead
of pursuing the simple and direct road to justice, the
treatment of my affairs was made subservient to purely
local, and I may also say private, ends.

When I paid my visit to General Sir Lloyd Mat-
thews, I was surprised to find that, without waiting
until I had arrived and stated my case, that gentle-
man had come to the conclusion that my porters were
justified in their desertion, and he had therefore taken
it upon himself to order my agent to supply them
with means of transport to Zanzibar, and with food
after their arrival there. This action of General Mat-
thews was another wholly without precedent.

The difficulties and dangers incident to the man-
agement of a caravan consisting of a large number of
half-savage porters would be so great as to render
exploration absolutely impossible, were it not for the
fact that the traveller can feel assured that any ill
behaviour or desertion on the part of his men will

XI TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 501

meet with prompt punishment upon their return to
the coast at Zanzibar. It is this knowledge alone
which has prevented not only the desertion of entire
caravans, but in many cases the massacre of the Euro-
pean in charge. Up to the time of the arrival of my
deserters at the coast, runaways upon reaching Zanzi-
bar had invariably been promptly imprisoned and _ held
until the European should arrive and testify against
them. As can readily be supposed, negroes who de-
sert from a caravan have plenty of time on their way

SQN
WY “ LX
RAY) IN
\ AWN Ne ne
rr WW \
es uae \
RAY SIS SS

paste _—

COCOANUT-OIL MILL

to the coast to invent a plausible story explaining
their desertion; but these stories, as the Europeans in
Zanzibar well knew the character of the Zanzibari, were
never credited until the arrival of the European with
his side of the story.

Upon visiting General Matthews, and demanding
the punishment of the men who had ruined my ex-
pedition, I was not offered assistance, or even asked
to tell my story; but, on the other hand, was met
with a demand on the part of the Government of Zan-
zibar for the full amount of the pay due these men

502 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

up to the time of their desertion. This I promptly
refused.

Upon the arrival of the deserters they had been
taken in charge by General Matthews, and brought
into the presence of Mr. Allen, the acting United
States Consul, who took down at full length their
statements. These statements in many cases were
conflicting, but their general trend was, that through-
out the journey I had treated them with the grossest
cruelty; that I had shot down numbers of them while
upon the march, and that many (some said twenty,
others said thirty) had died from excessive flogging.
They also said that I had engaged them for a period
of eighteen months, and that upon the expiration of
this period, finding me still desirous of continuing my
journey, they had, after long and fruitless endeavours
to induce me to return to the coast, been forced to
leave me and return to their homes in Zanzibar.

Upon arriving at Zanzibar, I had sent to our Con-
sul those men who had remained faithful to me. He
subjected them to a rigorous examination, and they
one and all offered testimony which absolutely refuted
in every particular the statements of the deserters
brought to Mr. Allen by General Matthews. General
Matthews was invited to be present upon this occa-
sion, but refused.

The statement that I had engaged my porters for
eighteen months was absolutely untrue, as was soon
made manifest. Porters are engaged on different terms
at Zanzibar. Those who are enlisted for the purpose
of performing a fixed journey over a known road are
engaged for a certain number of months; as, for ex-

XI TRAVELS [IN EASTERN AFRICA 503

ample, for caravans which are sent with mission sup-
plies to posts in the interior or with Government
supplies for Uganda. These men are aware, when
they enlist, of the exact duration of their journey.
For purposes of exploration, however, a force is not
enlisted after that manner. The explorer can never
tell how long it will take to accomplish the task which
he has set for himself, and in enlisting men he can-
not with honesty agree to lead them by fixed roads
to certain places; as his purpose is to explore an un-
known country, and he is ignorant of the route and
the time necessary for its accomplishment. In engag-
ing my men, the usual agreement had been drawn up
by my agents, Smith, Mackenzie & Co., of Zanzibar.
In this agreement there was not one word stipulating
the length of time I intended to be gone. It con-
tained simply a statement of the wages I intended to
pay the different men, and the amount of money I
had advanced each of them prior to departure from
Zanzibar.

The deserters, upon being questioned by Mr. Allen,
had been unable to mention a single man of the many
whom they alleged I had killed by shooting or exces-
sive flogging, with the exception of the one porter,
who had been accidentally killed early in the journey
by the Soudanese, Mahomet el Hussein; but they
said, and on this point they all concurred, that all the
alleged shooting and beating to death had occurred
prior to our first arrival at Daitcho in March, 1893.
The fact that this one man was killed, seemed, in the
minds of the authorities at Zanzibar, to warrant the
desertion of my entire caravan, although it was admit-

504 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

ted that this unfortunate man met his death more
than a year before the desertion of the men, and that
after this man’s death, and before my men deserted,
Hamidi had visited the coast, and had seen General
Matthews, who had, with apparent willingness, author-
ized Hamidi to carry out my orders, and to return to
me with a supply of stores and an increase in the per-
sonnel of my caravan. Hamidi, at the time of his
visit to the coast, certainly could have made no men-
tion of any brutality which I had exercised toward the
men, else would General Matthews have made some
mention of the charge to Mr. Allen, the acting United
States Consul. But although it was before the depart-
ure of Hamidi for the coast that the porter had been
shot, and that some eighteen or twenty of my men had
died from dysentery, pulmonary complaints, and other
ills incident to life in Africa, and none after the re-
turn of Hamidi, General Matthews did not make any
complaint to Mr. Allen until after the arrival of the
deserters at Zanzibar.

The total wages due my porters at the time of their
desertion was in the neighbourhood of £1000. This
sum, bearing in mind that my men had deserted me
and ruined my expedition, and that I was guiltless of
having given them any cause for desertion by my
treatment of them, I refused emphatically to pay.

I, being an American citizen, the proper tribunal for
the hearing of any complaint, charge, or claim against
me on behalf of the Government of Zanzibar or other
party, was the Consular Court of the United States;
and General Matthews was notified that I was ready
and willing to remain in Zanzibar a sufficient time to

xI TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 505

enable him to bring suit in that court against me.
This General Matthews refused to do, alleging that
Mie Allen, the :acting “Consul, being an . American,
would be biased in my favour; and said that, on the
contrary, I should appear before a British tribunal,
and submit my case to it. It struck me not only
that this suggestion was childish, but that, should I
act upon it, I should by so doing cast a slur upon
the consular courts of my own country.

Through the United States Consul I continued to
press my claims for the arrest and punishment of the
deserters, but without avail, and the authorities of
Zanzibar continued with all the vigour at their dis-
posal to press the claim against me on behalf of the
porters.

The native who had been killed while in my em-
ploy was the slave of an Arab at Zanzibar. Under
Arabic law a slave represents so much money, being
considered a chattel; and although I considered my-
self in no way responsible for the man’s death, never-
theless, as he had been shot while in my service, and
by a man in my employ, and as his master was poor,
I turned over to him a sum of money supposed to
represent the slave’s value to him.

About a week after my arrival at Zanzibar I was
prostrated by a severe attack of fever, and was taken
to the French hospital to be nursed. This hospital
is in the charge of nuns, and I feel that it is entirely
owing to their kind and thoughtful nursing that I
Recovered: iat all. It may-seem imeredible to the
medical profession, that upon my arrival at the
French hospital my temperature was 106.5 Fahrenheit.

506 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

I remained in the hospital two weeks before I was
able to return to my house. Upon my recovery,
Captain Charles Campbell of H.M.S. “ Philomel ” kindly
offered to take me for a six days’ cruise on his vessel
to recover my strength. Upon my return from the
cruise, which did my health a deal of good, I found
stationed in front of my house at Zanzibar two of
the Zanzibar police force. Having dismissed them,
I entered the house, and found George and my follow-
ers in a state of excitement and much relieved at my

return.
It appeared that the day I embarked on the “ Philo-
mel ” —in fact, less than an hour after I left the shore

—about fifteen of the deserters from my caravan,
armed with clubs, entered my house and_ attacked
George. He was roughly handled, but made good
his defence. He had been attacked while sitting at
a desk writing, and during the struggle his endeavour
was to reach a pistol! hanging upon the wall. This
he finally secured, whereupon his assailants fled. The
object of this attack I never could learn, but I think
it was undoubtedly actuated by a desire to seize the
person of either George or myself. Such an attack
upon an European, as far as I could learn, had not
occurred in Zanzibar for more than twenty years;
and it struck me as strangely coincident with the
hostile attitude of the authorities at Zanzibar.
Through the United States Consul, complaint was
made against these men, but few steps were taken
for their arrest, and only a few of them, although
all their names were handed in, and they were all
well known to the authorities, were shut up in the

XI TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 507

barracks of the Zanzibar troops. Even these few
were released after a few days’ confinement without
further punishment.

My house was situated just off the main street of
Zanzibar. The attack had .been' made upon it in
broad noonday. The men, in order to reach my
house, must have passed through the main street of
Zanzibar bearing clubs in their hands. The main
street was plentifully supplied with police, but they
had: ;imade no ‘effort to Stop“ the progress ‘of the
negroes, though it is customary never to permit natives
to walk thus armed through the streets of Zanzibar.

The Soudanese who deserted from me were taken
into the service of the Sultan; Mohamadi, the head-
man who deserted from me at Seran, and who had
stolen the ivory, was rewarded for this meritorious con-
ducts by being- placed. in’ an ‘office of trust in the
Zanzibar jail. Lieutenant von Hohnel upon reach-
ing Zanzibar had made a specific complaint against
this man, but was unable to procure his punishment
in any way.

I waited in Zanzibar several weeks, hoping that
some means would be arrived at for the settlement
of the difficulty, but no steps were taken by the
authorities of Zanzibar to bring suit in the Consular
Court. Knowing that if I should leave Zanzibar with-
out making strenuous attempts to settle the matter,
my course of action would be misrepresented, I of-
fered to submit the question at issue to arbitration.
This suggestion was agreed to by the authorities at
Zanzibar. It was determined that I should appoint
an arbitrator, that the government of Zanzibar should

508 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

appoint one, and that these two should decide upon
a third member of the board; the decision of this
commission to be final and binding upon — both
parties to the question at issue. Mr. Allen, the
United States Consul, chose to represent me in the
matter Mr. Seth A. Pratt,a gentleman of standing at
Zanzibar, who had formerly been United States Consul
at that port. The Government of Zanzibar entrusted
its interests to a Mr. Wilson, at that time its legal
adviser.

Mr. Pratt suggested eight men, from whom a third
arbiter was to be chosen, the list embracing English,
German, Italian, and French gentlemen. As the ques-
tion at issue required the introduction of a large
quantity of native testimony, Mr. Pratt, knowing from
long experience the impossibility of getting a correct
translation of answers through a native interpreter,
had nominated men who understood and spoke the
Swahili language, and had also counted length of
residence in Zanzibar as important, and consequent
acquaintance with the character of the people whose
testimony was to be heard.

The representative of the Government flatly refused
to consider any one of the eight gentlemen suggested
by Mr. Pratt; but demanded and insisted that the
third member of the board should be one of three
whom he named, two of whom in the hearing of Mr.
Pratt had expressed opinions hostile to my interests,
and the third had just received a decoration at the
hands of the Government of Zanzibar for services ren-
dered them. Mr. Pratt laboured long and earnestly
in order to bring about an agreement as to the third

xI TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 509

member; but at length, finding his efforts balked by
the obstinacy and discourtesy of the gentlemen repre-
senting the Government, he felt called upon to resign
all connection with the matter; so my efforts to settle
the thing by arbitration fell through.

Finding me unwilling to submit to threats and
unwarranted demands for the payment of the entire
sum (£1000) insisted upon by the Government of Zan-
zibar, a communication was received from General Sir
Lloyd Matthews, to the effect that the Government
would be satisfied with the payment of one-half that
amount. Finally, shortly before my departure from
Zanzibar, a request was received by Mr. Allen, to the
effect that I pay to the Government of Zanzibar
“some substantial sum.”

Among the records of the United States Consulate
at Zanzibar is to be found a letter written during the
height of the incident by General Sir Lloyd Matthews
to Mr. Allen, then acting Consul, in which General
Matthews states over his own signature that it is his
opinion that the desertion of the men was caused not
by any cruelty or unjust act of mine, but by plotting
and intriguing on the part of the Somali, who had
accompanied my expedition, and who, having become
tired of the journey, wished by this means to force a
return.

The Zanzibari who had remained faithful to me
throughout the journey refused to leave me, but con-
tinued to work for me during my stay in Zanzibar.
Most faithful among these were Sururu, my tent-boy,
and Mhahoma, the cook,a cousin of Hamidi. These
men passed a most unpleasant time during my stay,

510 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

as they were the victims of insult and bullying on
the part of the deserters. Upon one occasion, after
I had paid a visit to the house of Mhahoma, this
poor fellow was attacked and severely beaten by some
of the deserters.

I paid several visits to Sururu’s home, which was
situated quite upon the outskirts of the town of Zan-
zibar. He had four or five acres of land under culti-
vation, where he grew bananas, oranges, and vegetables.
He had two wives and three slaves. It had always
been his ardent wish to own a town house as well as
a country seat; so I gave myself the pleasure of pur-
chasing him one in the native quarter of Zanzibar.
The edifice was constructed of clay and wattles, white-
washed, and thatched with palm leaves. Sururu was
delighted with it, and divided the establishment into
two parts, saying, with glee, that he was then just
like an Arab—he could live in town during the sea-
son, and when the hot weather set in, he could go
out to his plantation. His one remaining ambition
was to own a donkey, so that he could ride from his
town house to his country seat in a dignified and_be-
coming manner. I hope that by this time he has
amassed sufficient wealth to gratify this desire.

The fever again returned, and both George and I be-
came ill. As I found all of my efforts to obtain justice
at the hands of the authorities of Zanzibar unavailing,
I decided to return home; and so on April 3, 1894, I
set out by the. French M. M.> Line for: Aden. Dhe
few of my followers who had remained faithful to me,
and who lived in Zanzibar, came to see me off, bring-
ing with them presents of oranges and native mats.

XI TRAVELS [VN EASTERN AFRICA SII

The Soudanese and Somali joyfully turned their backs
on Zanzibar.

In six days we reached Aden. We were due at
this port in the early morning, and I expected to have
at my disposal six or seven hours of daylight in which
to pay off my faithful followers; but, unfortunately,
we reached Aden at midnight, and the captain of the
vessel told me he would sail, without fail, on the fol-
lowing morning at eight.

The town of Aden consists of two parts, the sea-
port and the main town, the latter lying about four
miles in the interior. All places of business both at
the seaport and the main town were closed long before
we arrived, but that did not deter me from endeavour-
ing to satisfy the just claims of my men. My agents
at Aden were a Parsee firm, named Cowasjee Din-
shaw; so immediately upon casting anchor I set out
with the Somali and Soudanese for the house of my
agents, which was situated near the shore. The town
was wrapped in silence, and the sandy streets gave
forth no sound beneath our footsteps. Had it not
been for the knowledge that my personal supervision
was necessary to guarantee the payment of my men,
I should not have attempted to transact business at
that hour of the night.

In front of the office of Cowasjee Dinshaw there
stretched a wide veranda, and upon it there slept a
motley band of Sepoy soldiers, half-naked Somali
armed with clubs, and a large Ethiopian door-keeper.
In a few words I told my men it rested with them
whether they should get their pay or not; and their
eyes gleamed with responsive intelligence. The sleep-

512 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

ers on the veranda, disturbed by our approach, refused
to assist uS in any manner to enter the house. Most
of them were vagrants; but the Sepoy soldiers and
the door-keeper said that they had been stationed
there to prevent anybody entering the house and dis-
turbing its inmates at night, and, therefore, that we
should have to go away.

I gave a sign to my men, and they seized some
bits of timber and a chair lying on the veranda.

——— = i ff 4!
‘ . iy j
VARIETY OF PORTERS’ HABITATIONS {sis

Armed with these they rushed at the door with loud
shouts. It was strongly built, else it would have been
burst in. At length a querulous voice was heard from
inside, and footsteps, as of some one approaching.
The door opened, and one of the members of the
firm appeared, and in a frightened manner asked the
cause of the trouble. As suavely as possible I intro-
duced myself, and apologized for disturbing his slum-
bers; then I stated my wishes. He said that it was
impossible to get any money at that time of night;

XI TRAVELS IN EASTERN AFRICA 513

that all his cash was kept in a strongly built house in
the main town; and that at night it would be un-
safe to send for it, as the road was filled with
marauders.

After a long talk I succeeded in getting an order
on his bankers for the amount I wished; and then,
hailing a couple of night-hawk cabs, the entire party
of us set off for the town, which we reached at 3 a.m.
I spent two hours in smoking and chatting with my
men, and at 5 a.m. I took the liberty of awakening
the American Consul, whom to my great joy I found
to be Mr. Jones, formerly Consul at Zanzibar. He
was kindness itself, and sent a couple of Sepoys with
my order upon the bank, who soon returned bearing
between them a great bag of rupees. I shall never
forget the scene which closed my relations with these
men, who had remained faithful to me throughout
the trials of so many long months. They were paid
off in one of the large rooms of our Consul’s house.
The bag of rupees had been emptied upon a rug in
the centre of the apartment, and a little white moun-
tain of silver, illumined by the rays of the rising sun,
greeted the eyes of my followers.

Mr. Jones spoke Arabic as fluently as he did Eng-
lish, and that language was familiar to both the Sou-
danese and the Somali. The names of the men were
called in turn; the number of months they had served
was stated to them; the amount of advance money
received by each was mentioned; and after each state-
ment, Mr. Jones paused, until the man who was being
paid endorsed it by a silent nod, or the word “ Taib”

(Good). When the account of wages due each man
2L

514 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP.

was settled, he was told the sum he would receive
in addition as a present. Throughout the transac-
tion my watch was in my hand; for I knew that
the French vessel was getting up steam, and_ that
but a short time would elapse before she would leave
Aden harbour, four miles away.

When at length all was completed, and I began
to bid my men farewell, they one and all. said, “ Mas-
ter, we will not leave you here. We will accompany
you at least to the shore, and, if possible, go with
you to the ship.’ To one who is familiar with the
character of the Somali and the Soudanese this be-
haviour would appear almost incredible. It meant
that they would leave the pile of silver —their hard-
earned wages —in the hands of a man who was an
utter stranger to them, for the sake of a sentiment;
and that, contrary to their instinct (which in regard to
money, at least, may be expressed by the words, “Safe
bind; safe find”), they were willing to jeopardize the
results of almost two years’ labour for the sake of see-
ing the last of one who perhaps had treated them, as
far as in his power lay, with the utmost justice and
consideration, yet in the accomplishment of his purpose
had led them through dark and toilsome paths, and
caused them much keen suffering.

It was six o'clock when I bade farewell to my
friend, Mr. Jones, and dashing downstairs leaped into
a carriage waiting below. At this time Aden was
astir, and there were several carry-alls in the streets.
My men piled into them, and off we set; Mahomet
Aman, Karscho, and Ramazan went with me. _ I
found it really difficult to maintain my composure

XI TRAVELS IV EASTERN AFRICA 515

throughout the rapid gallop to the seashore. They
seized my hands, and kissed them, or stroked my
knees, all the while repeating, “Don’t forget us,
master. Come again, and we will travel with you.”

When ‘at' lenoth we/ reached the dock;-and I
paused for a moment to bid a silent farewell, I found
that George had in his possession a small bag of rupees
—a coin useless to me away from the East. I hesitated
a moment, thinking to whom to give it. Before my
eyes rose the vision of Hussein Mahomet returning
alone to my almost deserted camp at Daitcho, having
left, at the peril of his life, his deserting companions.
The memory of his dumb gratitude at my treatment
of him upon that occasion, and of his excellent be-
haviour throughout all the times of trial and difficulty
which had preceded the desertion of my men, surged
in my mind, and I pressed the little gift into his hands.
He took it in a lethargic manner; and then realizing
that he had been singled out above all the men, burst
once more into the fervent Mohammedan prayer, which
throughout the journey had been his only means of ex-
pressing feeling: “El Hamdililahi bismillahi irrach-
man irrachim” (Praise be to God, the All-Righteous,
the All-Merciful). To these words and to a chorus
of cries from the others, wishing me God-speed upon
my journey, I set out in a row-boat to join my steamer,
which I reached just as she got her anchors up and
was almost under way.

A few days more, and George and I had reached
Cairo, where we remained three weeks, regaining our
strength and recovering from continued attacks of
fever. From there we sailed to Trieste, where I was

516 THROUGH JUNGLE AND DESERT CHAP. XI

greeted upon my arrival by my friend Lieutenant von
Hohnel, then thoroughly recovered from the effects of
his wound, and, as can well be imagined, eager to hear
the story of the events which had occurred since his
departure. We reached Trieste on the first of May,
1894, — Just six weeks less than two years from the
time we set out from Europe.

FINIS

APPENDIX

WitiiaM ASTOR CHANLER, LZ sgutre,
New York City.

Dear Sir: —J am very glad to know of the prospect of the immediate
publication of the narrative of your expedition to the Tana River region,
and regret exceedingly that it is not possible to furnish at the present
time a detailed list of the collections obtained by you, since there are
many new and exceedingly interesting forms of animal life among them.
It is possible, however, to present a preliminary report. The National
Museum is greatly indebted to you and to your companion Lieutenant
von Hohnel for this valuable collection, which must of necessity occupy
a considerable time in its study, but which is sure to yield very important
results to biological science. I hope that you will convey to Lieutenant
von Hohnel the warmest thanks of the Smithsonian Institution for his
generosity in consenting that his collection should accompany yours to
the National Museum. It is prized exceedingly here and will be pre-
served always with the utmost care, and we hope that within a few
months a goodly amount of literature will have been published in regard
to the joint collection received from yourself and from him.

The mammals have been studied carefully by Mr. True, who has
published a paper in the Proceedings of the National Museum, Volume
XVI. pages 601 to 603 (‘ Notes on a Small Collection of Mammals
from the Tana River, East Africa, with Descriptions of New Species’’),
enumerating four species of small mammals, of which two are new,
namely : a small dormouse, which has been described under the name
of Lhomys parvus, and a mouse somewhat resembling the ordinary
house mouse, which has been called AZws ana. In addition the collec-
tion contained a specimen of a new antelope, which has been named
Cervicapra Chanileri, in your honour, in one of the publications of the
Tring Museum. ‘The specimen has. been finely mounted, and is a most
welcome addition to our series of African antelopes. ‘The species is a

517

518 APPENDIX

very beautiful one, differing from the more southern form in its delicate
gray colour.

The reptiles are still under investigation by Doctor Leonhard Stej-
neger, who has already published in the Proceedings of the National
Museum, Volume XVLI., pages 711 to 741, quite a number of new species
(“On Some Collections of Reptiles and Batrachians from East Africa
and the Adjacent Islands, Recently Received from Dr. W. L. Abbott and
Mr. William Chanler, with Descriptions of New Species”). He enu-
merates thirty species, of which five are new, among them the JZabuya
Chanlert and the Simocephalus Chanileri, thus named as a memorial
of your expedition. There is also another species, Hvemzas Hohneli,
named after Lieutenant von Hohnel. Another collection subsequently
received will soon be reported upon, and the following preliminary list
has been furnished by Doctor Stejneger : —

Reprites—1, Hemidactylus mabuya; 2, Chameleo ropert; 3, Cha-
maleo sp.; 4, Rhampholeon Kerstent.

SNAKES— 5, TZ)phlops uniteniatus; 6, Causus rhombeatus ;
7, Echis sp.

Toaps AND Frocs—8, Bufo regularis; 9, Phrynomants bifasciata ;
10, Ayperolius sp.; 11, Rana sp.

The collection of insects contained many interesting forms, but com-
ing as it does from a country so little known, there has been unexpected
delay in its identification, especially since two or three persons to whom
material has been intrusted for study have recently died. The Lepidop-
tera first received, those from the Tana River region, East Africa, were
submitted to Chancellor W. J. Holland, of the University of Pennsyl-
vania, and a report upon this collection is now in press (“ List of the
Lepidoptera Collected in the Tana River Region, East Africa, by Mr.
William Astor Chanler and Lieutenant von Hohnel,” Proceedings of the
United States National Museum, Paper No. 1063, Volume XVIII., pages
259 to 264). ‘This includes thirty-three species, of which two are new.
These are /phthima Chanleri and Charaxes Chanlert. Others are pos-
sibly though not certainly new. Another and much larger collection
more recently received, from the Jombeni range, is now in the hands
of Chancellor Holland.

Several species of Neuroptera were received ; among these was an
interesting specjes of ant-lion, identified by Mr. Linell as Palpares tris-
ws Hagen; also a considerable number of Odonata, which have been
described by Mr. Philip Calvert, of the Academy of Natural Sciences,
Philadelphia (‘‘ Notes on the Odonata”). This includes seven species.

APPENDIX 519

The collection of Orthoptera was sent to Professor Lawrence Bruner,
at the State University, Lincoln, Nebraska. Professor Bruner has not
yet completed his study of the collection, but is satisfied that there are
many new and interesting forms included in it.

The collection of beetles is very large and contains numerous new
forms. This collection has been in the hands of Mr. Linell, Aid in the
Department of Insects, who has a paper based upon it in press (“ List
of Coleoptera collected by Mr. William Astor Chanler and Lieutenant
von Hohnel on the River Tana between the Coast and Hameye during
the Expedition of 1893, and on Jombeni Range, Northeast of Mount
Kenya, in 1894, with Descriptions of New Genera and Species”). He
informs me that among the one hundred and ninety-one species repre-
sented there are four new genera and thirty-four new species. The
collection is very full, and represents in an excellent manner the con-
spicuous forms of beetle fauna of the region.

The collection of Hemiptera and Hymenoptera is not so large as
some of the others, but Mr. Ashmead, to whom they were sent, is satis-
fied that they will prove very interesting. He has not yet, however,
determined how many new forms there are among them.

The Spiders and Scorpions were sent to the late Doctor George Marx.
The elaboration of this collection was interrupted by his death, and
opportunity has not since been found to place them in the hands of
another specialist. Many of the forms, however, are large and striking,
especially the scorpions. I regret that it is not possible, at this time, to
say how many new forms were found.

Of the Diptera, there are eleven species, including two specimens of
a Tsetse fly, Glossina longipalpis, a species which replaces in East Equa-
torial Africa the well-known Glossina morsitans of the South.

I have now mentioned, I believe, all the groups of animals that were
represented in your collections. In closing I beg to assure you again of
our great gratification in receiving these valuable series of specimens at

the Museum.
Yours very sincerely,
G. Brown GOopE,
Assistant Secretary, Smithsonian Institution,
an charge National AlTuseum.

4 7 =~ a
~ ~ /¢ 5 +s
auf Fg a
‘ we
s 7 me
7 ay Fl
‘ ~
j i _ =
nt ‘
' - i . 7 & on
= es 3 if 2
+ 1 Ts, po
: es ;
i ooo : .
¥ . . A
s Ms o> *
~ 7 ‘ =eh
. - = ’ 4 . ;
= “st -
a 5 ai ‘ae
. %
. ? aa
) = 9 = -
- Wes
~s
! ; -
. “w.
’ j ;
~
“ ry
‘

INDEX

Abdee Achmet, his account of the run-
aways, 482.

Abdullah Ben Hamed, governor of La-
moo, 15; governor, visits camp at
Mkonumbi, 33.

Abdurachman and Gwaharam, two Be-
loochi, 438.

Achmet Dualla, 26, 290, 331; deserted
by Mohamadi and six men, 332.

Aden, Somali engaged at, 7.

Aden, 511.

African, characteristics of sick African,
152.

African traveller, impossible to be an
expert in all branches of science,
272.

African tribes prefer war to trade, 325.

Allen, Mr., 508, 509.

Antelope and zebra, herds of, 113.

Antelope, “ Cervicapra
Chanleri,” 431; small herds, 124.

Ants, red, called by natives “boiling
water,” 63.

Apes, attracted by camp-fire, 128.

new species,

Baboons and the dogs, 392.

Balook Bashi (Mahomet el Hussein),
46; shoots a deserter, 58; reduced to
the ranks, 61.

Balooki Bashi, chief of Soudanese, 21.

Baobab tree, girth forty-eight feet, 109.

Baraka, tent-boy, 9; his experience in
caravan work, 10; marches with Chan-
ler, 164; tent-boy, drowned in the
Tana, 434.

Barfalatta, 12.

521

Beasts of burden, difficulty of procuring,
230.

Beasts of burden in East Africa, 147.

Benayo village, 67.

Berkenedji or Samburu tribe, 281.

Bird, honey bird, 277.

Birds, singing birds on the Guaso Nyiro
River, 124.

Blood brothers with the white man, 159.

Blood-brotherhood, 185, 186; manner of
performing the ceremony, 187; cere-
mony performed with the Rendile, 305.

Blood-brotherhood with the Daitcho,
219.

Boat, a canvas Berthon, 63.

“Boma,” a zeriba, held by warriors as an
outpost, 198.

Borana tribe, enemies of the Rendile, 318.

Borana, distance from Kome, 319.

Bridge over the Guaso Nyiro, 117.

Bridges, constructing, across the Tana,
474-

British East African Company, 7, 12, 15,
69.

Buffalo, 141.

Bugoi, village of the Wanderobbo, 355.

Bykender, married to a Rendile woman,
223%:
wife, 223; a rich native of Daitcho
tribe, 223; visits camp, 405.

Bykender, 225, 457, 467.

tells the story of his Rendile

Camels, death of, 65; the Rendile tribe
supposed to possess 80,000, 313. °

Camp at Hameye, a paradise, 70.

Camp, building at Daitcho, 234.

522 INDEX

Campbell, Captain, takes Chanler for
cruise in H.M.S. “ Philomel,” 506.

Caravan, personnel of, 5.

Caravan, trading in charge of two natives
of Beloochistan at Daitcho, 237.

Carroll, Royal Phelps, 9.

Cataract on the Tana River, 475.

Cattle bitten by flies, 204.

Chabba, Mount, a high gneiss hill, 147;
herd of rhinoceros, 148.

Chanler, object of journey, 1; personnel
of caravan, 5; goes to Zanzibar, 7;
obtains permission of Sultan of Zanzi-
bar to engage porters, 7; secures one
hundred and thirty porters, 8; engages
Sururu and Baraka as body servants,
9; arrives at Mkonumbi, 12; goes to
Kau on the Tana, 16; engages boat-
men for river column, 16; his method
of dealing with complaints of Sou-
danese, 23; leads expedition with six
Soudanese, 36; in bed with fever, 47;
speaks to porters about desertion, 58;
crosses the River Tana in canvas Ber-
thon boat, 63; visit to chief of Galla
tribe, 68; journey to the north in
search of Lake Lorian, 73; uses a
Winchester with express sight, 77;
letter to London Field on results
achieved with Winchester and Mann-
licher, 79; expedition from Hameye,
81; shooting hippopotamuses, 86 ;
shoots a rhinoceros, 92; adventure
with a rhinoceros, 96; views the sur-
rounding country, 97; with Lieutenant
Hohnel, ascends the mountain, 98; an
attack of fever, 99; attack of fever
near Mount Kenya, 103; carried in a
hammock, 105; trouble with the Sou-
danese about food, 107; health re-
stored, 107; shoots grantii from a
chair, 111; Christmas Day a day of
rest, 1173; discovery of falls in the
Guaso Nyiro River named Chanler
Falls, 119; on the plateau of Marisi
Alugwa Zombo, 127; adventure with a
rhinoceros, 132; shoots the rhinoceros
that tossed Sururu, 134; attack of

fever, 137; adventure with buffaloes,
141; adventure with a lion, 143; in
the country of the Wamsara tribe,
152; head covering worn, 155; sur-
veys the Wamsara country, 160; mes-
sage to the Wamsara, 172; palaver
with the Embe, 180; on watch expect-
ing to be attacked by the Embe, 196 ;
talk with Motio, 197; prostrated by
sickness at Hameye, 205; blood-
brotherhood with the Daitcho, 219 ;
interview with Bykender’s wife, a Ren-
dile, 224 ; journey to the Embe coun-
try, 238; goes through the ceremony
of muma with the Embe, 260; twenty-
sixth birthday at Ngombe crater, 269;
searching for gold in the Guaso Nyiro,
2733; as a great medicine-man, 282;
night march in search of Rendile,
289; the Rendile visit camp, 294;
interview with the Rendile chiefs, 297;
interview with a Rendile chief, 310;
tempted to attack the Rendile, 329 ;
march from Seran to Daitcho, 334;
camp on the Guaso Nyiro, 334; at
Daitcho, covering a distance of sev-
enty-five miles in three days and a
half, 334; men in the camp at Daitcho
excited by the tales told of the Ren-
dile, 336; starts to rejoin Lieutenant
von Hohnel at Lolokwi, 339; cautions
his men to use water sparingly, 340;
two of his men mad with thirst, 340;
his adventure with a serpent, 342;
camp at Ngombe crater, 343; sends
Karscho and all the men to bottom of
crater for water, 344; adventure with
a lion, 345; arrives at Guaso Nyiro,
348; prostrated with fever at Lolokwi,
349; carried in a hammock to Sayer,
350; Wanderobbo act as guides in
the hunt for elephants, 358; elephant
hunting with the Wanderobbo, 362;
adventure elephant hunting, 363; dan-
gerous work elephant hunting, 366,
367; elephant hunting, 370; return to
Sayer, 377; on the Subugo, 378; his
adventure with rhinoceros, 379; his

INDEX 523

sorrow for the injuries sustained by
Lieutenant von Héhnel, 383; march
to Daitcho, 384; rhinoceros shooting,
386; the water-buck and the dogs,
390; planning for the future, 400;
hunting hippopotamuses, 409; on a
visit to the Embe, 417;
Hamidi’s arrival from the coast with
eighty men, 417;
men, expectation of starting
north doomed to disappointment, 424;
health failing, 424; talk with Zanzibari
from Njemps, 425; the new men cause
trouble, 432; new men wish to return
to the coast, 433; assists the Daitcho
to repel hostile natives, 434; sends
letter to George, 437; word from
George, 438; natives ask him to stop
the raid of locusts, 440; negro with
sun-umbrella to stop locusts, 441; treat
him with reverence and awe for put-
ting to flight the locusts, 442; Hamidi
returns with letter from George, 442;
bad news, porters revolt, 448; con-
fronts the mutineers, 448; the Somali

news of

drilling the new

22:
Foto Jar)

and Soudanese come to his assistance,
449; porters desert in a body, 450;
interview with Gwaharam, 452; sends
letter to Hamidi, 453; interview with
Hamidi, 455; Hamidi promises to
bring back deserters, 457; the Sou-
danese desert, 457; the Soudanese
Hussein Mahomet returns, 459; six-
teen men all told in the zeriba, 461;
his belief that Hamidi had been acting
under orders received during his visit
to the coast, 466; distributes food
among the Daitcho, 467; distributes
goods among the traders at Daitcho,
467; destroys ammunition, 468; burns
goods for trading, 468; force of eigh-
teen men all told, 470; departure from
Daitcho, 470; the country of the
Daitcho opened to Europeans, 471;
march to the coast, 472; meets the
Wakamba, 472; arrives at the Lan-
galla, 474; crossing the Tana, 474;
constructing bridges across the Tana,

476; meets Hassan and men from
Sayer, 479; arrives at Mitio’s village
482; group of villages called Kitinga,
486; slaves crave assistance to return
to their people, 489 ;
Kikuyu women from slavery, 489 ;

rescues two

Wakamba insist upon the return of
slaves, 489; drives off the Wakamba,
489; meets Mr. Neumann, 491; at the
German mission station, Ikutha, 492;
at the Kibwezi mission station, 493;
from the Kibwezi station to Mombasa,
495; arrives at Mombasa, 498; thirty
days’ journey from Daitcho to Mom-
basa, 498; at Zanzibar, 498; visit to
Sir Lloyd Matthews, 499; the govern-
ment of Zanzibar demands full amount
of pay due deserters, 501; deserters’
false statement to Mr. Allen and Sir
Lloyd Matthews refuted, 502; exami-
nation of deserters, 503; refuses to pay
deserters, 504; presses his claims for
arrest and punishment of deserters,
505; sick with fever at Zanzibar, 505;
authorities at Zanzibar press the claim
of porters, 505; pays for slave acci-
dentally shot, 505; deserters attack
Chanler’s house at Zanzibar, 506;
difficulties submitted to arbitration,
507; visit to Sururu’s home, Zanzibar,
510; homeward bound, 510; Aden,
511; at Cairo, 515.

Chanler Falls, 119.

Chapmani and burcheli as food, 141.

Charters, Dr., the missionary who oper-
ated on Lieutenant von Héhnel, 493;
clergyman, engineer, and doctor of
medicine, 494; his death, 494.

Christmas Day in Africa, 113; at Daitcho,
463.

Cowasjee Dinshaw, of Aden, 511.

Cracknell, Mr., acting British Agent and
Consul-General at Zanzibar, 500.

Crocodile kills Felix, the fox-terrier, 410.

Daitcho tribe, 191; fermented honey,
220; their manner of tilling the soil,
220; on the eastern slope of the

INDEX

Jombeni range, 213; their plantations

and cattle, 219; marriage customs,

221; men kept employed, 335; camp

in charge of George in good condition,

335; capture of robbers, 338; native

dance, 410; children dance, 414; full-

dress dance, 414; dancing a serious

tribe and the locusts,
440; to Mombasa 450 miles, 470; the
zeriba at, 470; the country of, opened
to Europeans and missionaries, 471 ;
disastrous results of digging up car-
tridges left by Chanler, 480.

Dance, native, by Daitcho tribe, 410.

David, English-speaking negro, at Dick’s
trading-post, 487.

Denhardt, Gustave, first to ascend the
Tana River, 3, 16; at Lamoo, 15.

Deserters, 46-48, 56, 65, 205; the most
serious difficulty, impossible to over-
come, 209; sent to Zanzibar by Sir
Lloyd Matthews, 500; their false state-
ments to Mr. Allen and Sir Lloyd
Matthews refuted, 502.

Dick, trading-post owned by, 487.

Dogs, fox-terrier and native, 206; Felix,
the fox-terrier, and the hippopotamuses,
211; Felix, the fox-terrier, and the
elephants, 363; and water-buck, 390;
Felix and two other fox-terriers attack
a rhinoceros, 382; afraid of a lion,
392; Felix, the fox-terrier, seizes the
ear of a rhinoceros, 391; only useful
in the early morning or late afternoon

and the
baboons, 392; Felix, the fox-terrier,
killed by a crocodile, 410.

Donkeys, die of fly-bites, 123; death of,
288.

Donyo Loldeikau, mountain range, 149.

Donytuli Mono Vomari, a mighty wizard,
248.

“Dthombon” robbers, 289.

Dukuli, 49.

Dundas, 4.

business, 414;

on account of heat, 391 ;

Elephant hunters in the camp at Tuni, 53.
Elephants, herd of twenty-two, 131; traps

used by the Wanderobbo to capture
them, 350; in search of, with the Wan-
derobbo, 360; hunting, 366, 367, 369;
heart of, a delicacy, 368.

Embe tribe, near Mount Kenya, 105;
their knowledge of agriculture, 105;
country of, 179: assist the expedition
on the march, 182; anoint their skins
with castor oil, 188; religious sanctity
for anything of extraordinary size, 188;
natives chew bark of “ Miraa,’”’ 189;
their physique, 190; attack expedition,
200 ; visit of leaders to camp at
Daitcho, 228; native women traders,
239; their market-places, 239; brac-
ing air 5000 feet above the sea-level,
241; native story, 242; old men sub-
sist entirely on meat diet, 242; their
government, 242; questions of moment
discussed exclusively by old men, 245;
the population, 245; home and foreign
policy, 246; raids of the warriors, 246;
marriage customs, 247; superstition of,
247; advice of Donytuli Mono Vomari,
a wizard, 248; married men, 248; men
divided into two classes, warriors and
old men, 248; their religion, 249;
local deities wise men, 250; circumci-
sion, 251; courtship, 251; young girls
and boys naked, 252; articles manu-
factured, 253; manner of burying the
dead, 253; dancing their sole amuse-
ment, 253; dig pits as traps for elephants
and rhinoceros, 254; iron, tools, and
arms, 254; their bows and arrows, 254;
women weave bags, 254; natives en-
gaged in clearing forests, 255; proprie-
tors of land, 255; their language, 255;
as soon as a man becomes powerful
or rich he is poisoned, 257; poisons
used, 257; their equality, 257; the
poisoner, 257; how they measure time,
258; their manner of trading, 259.

Emin Pasha, 209.

Expedition, to explore region lying be-
tween Tana and Juba Rivers.

CHAPTER I. — Expedition of Count

Teleki and Lieutenant von Héhnel, 3;

INDEX 525

route decided upon, 3; to ascend
the River Tana, 4; personnel of cara-
van, 5; beasts of burden for trans-
portation of goods, 5; purchase of
stores in London and Vienna, 6; seven
Somali engaged for care of beasts of
burden, 6; twelve Soudanese soldiers
engaged, 6; intelligence of porters, 6;
difficulties in finding porters at Zanzi-
bar, 7; engaged Somali at Aden, 7;
engaged Soudanese at Massowah, 7;
kindness of Italian authorities at Mas-
sowah, 7; engagement of one hundred
and thirty porters, $8; wages paid to
porters, 8; headman of porters, 9;
town life not suited to natives, 10; first
camp at Mkonumbi, 11; at Mkonumbi,
12; assistance of Teide and Denhardt,
16; engagement of boatmen and
canoes for river column, 16; Sadi,
captain of the fleet, 17; camp at
Mkonumbi, 18;
arms of men, 21; Soudanese armed
with Mannlicher repeating rifles, 21;
the Soudanese, 21; uniform of Soudan-
ese, 21; Somali men most useful, 26;
arrival of Lieutenant von Héhnel with
camels at Kismayu, 26; Jama Yusef
warns the chiefs at Kismayu against
expedition, 27; instructing natives in
use of rifle, 27; shooting at target, 28;
a day’s work in camp at Mkonumbi,
28; danger of small-pox, 29; prepara-
tions for departure from Mkonumbi,
30; visit of Arab governor to camp,
33; porters carry eighty pounds, 33;
retrievers and fox-terrier, 34; drilling
men loading and unloading camels
and donkeys, 34; caravan breaks
camp at Mkonumbi, 35; joy of native
porters at departure for interior, 35;
farewell visit of governor of Lamoo, 35;
order of marching, 36; reach camping-
place, 36; trouble with pack animals,
36; at Merifano, 38; arrival at the
Tana, 39.

CuaApTer II. — Expedition, trading
with the Pokomo, 40; load of ammu-

uniform and_ fire-

nition missing, 41; march from Mare-
fano to Kinekombe, 41; appearance
of the country, 42; caravan as seen
on the march, 42; guides poorly in-
formed, 43; encampment on banks of
Tana, 433; opposite the village of Kine-
kombe, 44; In camp at Kinekombe,
45; deserters, 46; crosses the Tana,
47; at Massa, 48; men raid a planta-
tion, 49; punishment of men and
stolen property restored, 49; march
to Dukuli, 49; suffers from heat, 49;
guides desert, 50; cutting road through
tangled undergrowth, 50; search for
water, 50; death of dogs, 51; camp
at Tuni, 52; difficulties in purchasing
food, 52; loss of nine men and two
valuable loads by desertion, 57; de-
parture from Tuni, 57; deserters to be
shot, 58; deserter shot by Balook
Bashi, 58; cuts a way through the
bush to the river, 62; attempt to cut a
road to Malkakofira, 63; finds a store-
house with 3000 ears of Indian corn,
64; attempt to force a way along the
river, 64; harassed by thick under-
growth, 65; leave behind the impene-
trable bush, 66; finding of the canoes
with provisions, 67; march to Tulu
Kuleso, 67; visit of Galla chief, 68;
endeavour to get information concern-
ing the Rendile, 69; ferried over the
stream, 70; canoes returned to the
coast, 70.

CuarTeEr ITT.— Expedition, changed
appearance of the country, $2; na-
tive zeriba deserted, 82; first sight
of the Kenya, 83; Soudanese make
bad shikaris, $4; hilly country, 84;
arrive at the Mackenzie River, 85;
follow the Mackenzie River, 91; view
of range of mountains, 92; beauti-
ful aspect of the country, 95; cara-
van charged by rhinoceros, 96; sur-
vey of the surrounding country,
mountains and forests, 97; build a
zeriba, 98; natives at work, 100; na-
tive men and women chopping down

526

INDEX

trees, 100; two men held as hostages,
IOI ; capture two natives of the Kikuyu
tribe, 101; Kikuyu warriors threaten
expedition, 102; four warriors capt-
ured as hostages, 102; friendship
among the tribes near Mount Kenya
sealed by the slaughter of a sheep, 103;
preparation for attack, 104; march con-
tinued, 110; 3500 feet above the sea-
level, 110; journey continued down-
hill, 112; camp at Ngombe, 112; short
of water, I14.

CHAPTER IV.— Expedition, Christ-
mas Day on the Guaso Nyiro, 117; na-
tive bridge over the Guaso Nyiro, 117;
along the banks of the river, 118; dis-
covery of falls on the Guaso Nyiro
River, 119; named Chanler Falls, 119;
encampment below the falls, 119;
travelling over jagged lava blocks, 122;
mosquitoes troublesome, 123; effects of
a mosquito bite, 123; night-scare in
camp, 127; on the plateau of Marisi
Alugwa Zombo, 127; crossed the Guaso
Nyiro, 128; in sight of what appears to
be a large sheet of water, 128; apes
attracted by camp-fire, 128; charge of
a rhinoceros, 130; through forest of
acacias, 131; elephant trails, 131; dis-
content of men, 134; stricken with
fever, 137; no Lake Lorian, nothing
but a vast swamp, 138; camp in the
swamp, 138; tormented by mosquitoes
in the swamp, 139; abode of pestilence
and death, 139; food nearly exhausted,
139; recovery of health, 140; death
of Soudanese and porter, 140; nine
days marching back to Christmas
camp, 140; left at Christmas camping-
place on the Guaso Nyiro, 145; start
for the Jombeni Mountains, 146; ex-
amine the rifles of men, 148; view of
Mount Kenya, 149; search for water
in the neighbourhood of Chabba, 150;
arrives at the river, 151; in the coun-
try of the Wamsara, I51; interview
with the Wamsara, 152; armed warrior
of the Wamsara, 152; build zeriba,

152; expectation of food supply from
the Wamsara, 153.

CHAPTER V. — Expedition, the negro
in cold weather, 154; the Wamsara visit
camp, 156; the Wamsara suspicious,
158; Wamsara refuse to bring food,
159; warriors of the Wamsara again
visit camp, 160; preparations to leave
the Wamsara, 162; short of ammuni-
tion, 163; start for Hameye, 164; suffer
from hunger, 164;- order of marching,
164; American flag carried at the head
of caravan, 165; one of the Wamsara
tribe made prisoner, 166; an exciting
moment, 167; Wamsara refuse to
trade, 167; seize a few head of cattle
from the Wamsara, 168; fight with the
Wamsara, 168; Wamsara defeated,
168, 171; release of prisoner, 172;
dangerous road through the Wamsara
territory, 173; natives follow the line
of march, 173; attacked by the Wam-
sara in the ravines, 174 ; the Wamsara
wish no more war, 175; treachery of
the Wamsara, 175; continuous sharp
fighting, 176; wounds inflicted on the
men, 177; goats slaughtered and milk
served to men, 178; last of the ammu-
nition served out, 178; greeted by the
Embe with signs of peace, 179; a pala-
ver with the Embe, 180; road downhill
to the Mackenzie River, 181; the
Embe warriors threaten to attack, 182;
camp in the country of Embe, 183;
native Embe bring honey to camp,
184; the Embe wish to make blood-
brothers of, 184; interview with some
elders of the Embe, 185; another
palaver with the Embe, 186; the
Embe cleans the road over which the
caravan passed, 186; ceremony of
blood-brotherhood with the Embe,
187; treachery of the Embe during
the night, 192; old men visit the camp,
193; superstition, 194; fear of night
attack, 196; start in a thick mist, 197;
difficulties on the march, 199; in sight
of the “boma” (camp of warriors),

INDEX 527

200; attacked by the Embe, 200; de-
feat of the Embe, 201; emerge from
the bush, 201; march to Hameye con-
tinued, 201; arrive at Hameye, 202;
George’s “ good news,” 202.

CHAPTER VI.— Expedition, camp at
Hameye, 203; presents to the men
who went to Lorian, 204; George
makes a food station, 205; ten deser-
tions, 205; reducing the stores, 206;
departure from Hameye, 207; dis-
content among the men, 207; search-
ing for deserters, 209; at the food
station established by George, 210;
camped near the Tana, 210; along
the banks of the Ura, 212; shooting
giraffes, 213; meets Zanzibari caravan
at Daitcho, 216; the Daitcho bring
food to camp, 218; blood-brotherhood
with the Daitcho, 219; purchase of
donkeys from the Daitcho, 222; death
of the donkeys, 225; eclipse of the
sun and the Daitcho, 226; ruse to
make the natives believe that Chanler
possessed occult power, 227; natives
frightened at the ruse, 228; visit of
leaders of the Embe, 228; chief men
of the Embe held as hostages, 229;
efforts to procure beasts of burden,
230; rainy season in camp, 232; camp
on fire, 233; rebuilding the camp, 234;
hostages released, 234; join George in
Embe country, 238; visit of the Daitcho
hostages, 240; visit of thirty old men,
241; visit of Liria, Embe chief, 260;
ceremony of muma with the Embe,
260; George arrives with thirty-seven
donkeys, 260; return to Daitcho, 262;
Beloochi visit camp, 263; Hamidi de-
spatched to coast, 263; preparations
for journey to the Rendile, 264.

CuarterR VII. — Expedition, two
days’ journey from Daitcho, 266; search
for water, 267; spring shaded by acacia
trees, 269; photographs taken, 271;
fords the Guaso Nyiro, 273; a deserted
village of the Wanderobbo, 275; at
Lolokwi, 277; in sight of Mount Ger-

guess, 280; obtains information about
the Rendile from Wanderobbo, 280;
return of Wanderobbo men from hunt-
ing, 281; Wanderobbo offers to act as
guide to Seran, 282; on the march to
the Rendile, 283; water supply on the
march, 284; arrive at Kamanga, no
water, 285; night march, 285; arrive
at Lokoli, 286; questioning the guide,
286; arrive at Seran, 287; Wande-
robbo guide urges them to turn back,
287; Mayolo’s ignorance of the coun-
try, 288; tracks of ‘dthombon”’ rob-
bers, 290; men fear the Rendile, 291;
first sight of the Rendile, 292; first in-
terview with the Rendile, 293; Chanler
and four men alone with the Rendile,
295; the chief of the Rendile visit
camp, 296; the Rendile ask for pres-
ent, 298; Lieutenant von Héhnel joins
Chanler, 299; must perform the cere-
mony of biood-brotherhood before
trading with the Rendile, 304; small-
ness of gifts from the Rendile, 304;
ceremony of blood-brotherhood with
the Rendile, 305; build a zeriba, 306;
Lokomogul brings an old camel to
trade, 306; difficulty of trading with the
Rendile, 307; the Rendile refuse to
trade with expedition, 308; fruitless en-
deavour to trade with the Rendile, 308;
an expected attack, 309; a native Ren-
dile tells of the customs of his tribe, 314;
Lokomogul asks why they travelled
without wives, 322; Mayolo advises
them to leave the Rendile, 323; temp-
tations to raid the Rendile, 324; un-
able to procure sufficient animals for
porterage of goods, 326; decide to go
to the country of the Turcana, 326.
CHAPTER VIII. — Expedition, at
Seran, 327; departure of the Rendile,
330; send for donkey saddles left at
Lolokwi, 331; to return to Daitcho,
333; pushes on to Sayer, 350; camp
at Sayer, 252; wasting time to satisfy
the hunger of the Wanderobbo, 355.
CHAPTER IX.— Expedition, men

528

INDEX

start a prairie fire, 383; to take Lieu-
tenant von Héhnel back to Daitcho,
383; rhinoceros charge them during
the march to Daitcho, 385; porters
demoralized by rhinoceros charges,
388; camp scared at night by rhinoce-
ros, 389; country seemed to abound
with rhinoceroses and lions, 389; lions
near the camp, 389; camped near the
Mackenzie River, 393; arrive at
Daitcho, 395; plans for future jour-
neys, 400; farewell to Lieutenant von
Ho6hnel, 404; camp visited by hyenas,
409; rifle practice at Daitcho, 410;
men brought to the camp by Hamidi
unfit for work, 418; Hamidi’s men
bring false news from the coast, 419;
purchase of donkeys by George, 424;
making saddles for donkeys, 426; rainy
season at Daitcho, 427; anxious time
at Daitcho, 428; five men of the party
sent to Ukambani desert, 431; new
men complain of Somali and Soudan-
ese, 431; the new men return to the
coast, 433; men sent to assist George
to cross the Tana, 436; natives ask
for medicine to stop plague of locusts,
439-

CHAPTER X.— Expedition, porters
revolt and desert, 448; Somali and Sou-
danese protect Chanler, 449; Mwalim
Hamis leader of mutineers, 450; gate of
the camp, 451; Gwaharam and Beloochi
in camp, 453; letter to Hamidi, 453;
list of men left with Chanler, 454;
Hamidi denies all knowledge of mutiny,
455; Zanzibari traders refuse to take
charge of goods, 461; completely
broken up, 461; Gilo asks forgiveness,
463; Christmas dinner, 463; distrib-
uting the trading-goods, 467; depart-
ure for the coast, 470; Daitcho will
welcome Europeans, 471; set out for
the coast, 472; cataract on the Tana,
475; bridges across the Tana, 476.

CHAPTER XI. — Expedition, at
Mitio’s village, 482; Abdee Achmet
with the donkeys, 482; Hamidi ar-

rives, 483; Wakamba and their women,
485; at Kitinga, 486; an African
Switzerland, 487; at Dick’s trading-
post, 487; the dwarf Mgundu, 490;
meet Mr. Neumann, 491; German mis-
sion station, 492; meet W. Watson
and Dr. Charters’ missionaries, 493;
slaves left at the Kibwezi mission, 495;
the Teita people, 497; at Mombasa,
498; at Zanzibar, 499; case of de-
serters before the American Consul,
505; Mr. Seth A. Pratt represents Mr.
Chanler, 508; George at Zanzibar,
510; for home, 511.

Field, London, \etter concerning fire-

arms, 79.

Fight with the Wamsara, 168.
Fish in the Guaso Nyiro River unfit for

food, 123; from the River Guaso
Nyiro filled with small worms, 123.

Flags carried at head of Zanzibari cara-

vans, 215.

Fleas, camp at Daitcho infested with,

337-

Flowers on the banks of Guaso Nyiro

River, 124.

Forest on the slope of Mount Kenya,

100.

Fumo Omari, raids Arab plantations and

native villages, 12; Sultan of Witu,
Tis

Galla, 61; legend of the sacred book, 37;

village and tribe, 37.

Galla and Pokomo tribes, 62; moun-

tains located on map by Dr. Peters
invisible, 62; chief visits camp at
Tulu, 67; tribe threaten violence, 67.

Game, elephants, 82; zebra, oryx beisa,

walleri, and rhinoceros, 82; plentiful
on the Mackenzie River, 92; mara-
bout storks, 95; East African antelope
excellent food, 96; rhinoceros shot by
Lieutenant von Hoéhnel, rio.

George Galvin, servant to Chanler, 2,

10, 51, 57, 58, 66; left at Hameye,
73; aS a sportsman, 77; carries a

INDEX 529

Mannlicher, 78; in charge of camp at
Hameye, 202, 203; reports runaways,
208; working at the loads, 208; skill
in arranging loads, 210; goes to the
Embe country, 228; purchasing don-
keys of the Embe, 229; builds zeriba
in Embe country, 240; keeps his
camp well supplied with meat, 335;
sleeps the palisade, 3373
hyena captures his dog, 337; his
shooting expeditions, 396; his comical
adventure with a baby rhinoceros, 397;
shoots a male lion, 398; starts for
Kibwezi with Lieutenant von Héhnel,
400; letter from, telling of purchase
of donkeys, 424; on an island in mid-
stream, 436; unable to cross the Tana,
436; starts to join Chanler via Ham-
eye, 443; arrives at Daitcho, 444; the
story of his sufferings, and attempts to
cross the Tana, 444; arrives at Zanzi-
bar, 506; attacked by porters in Zan-
zibar, 506.

Gerguess, Mount, 280.

Germans at Witu, II.

Gilo, the Galla interpreter, asks forgive-
ness, 463.

Giraffes, 129.

Grantii, 129.

Guaso Nyiro River, its source on the
western slopes of Mount Kenya, 107,
115; not emptied into the Tana, 115;
bridge over, 118; fall of sixty feet
named Chanler Falls, 118; its swift
current, 118; lava dust on one side,
mica on the other, 118; course ever
changing, 122; fish unfit for food,
123; 1233
and Lorian Swamp, 140.

Guides, desertion of, 50.

Gwaharam and Abdurachman, Beloochi
in charge of caravan, 237, 452.

outside

mosquitoes troublesome,

Hameye Station, description of, 69.

Hameye, limit of navigation of the Tana,
69; shortest route from the Wamsara
to, 162; improvement of zeriba, 203.

Hamidi, headman of porters, 9; head-

2M

man of porters, addresses the men
about desertion, 208; after deserters,
209; many weeks overdue from the
coast, 399;
with porters unfit for work, 418; com-
municates with George
Tana, 438; builds a canoe, 443; prob-
able leader of deserters, 451; denies
all knowledge about desertions, 455,
returns to the camp at Daitcho, 455;
at one time employed in the construc-
tion of Kibwezi mission, 495.

Hammock made with the midribs of a
palm, 401.

Hassan Burgan, 55.

Hassan Masai, interpreter, 297; sent to
Sayer, 463; the interpreter, his ad-
venture with an elephant, 365; and
men return from Sayer, 479.

Head covering for the tropics, 155.

Headman of porters, 9.

Herella, a Soudanese, 25.

Hippopotamus, 85; eaten by all mem-
bers of caravan except the Somali, 89;
furious antics to reach deep water, 132.

Hogs, wart, 287.

Hohnel, Lieutenant von, I, 3; engages
Soudanese and Somali for expedition,
7; arrives at Lamoo, 10; goes to
Kismayu for camels, 11; arrives with
camels, oxen, etc., at Kismayu, 27;
his medicine chest, 29; in charge of
the rear guard, 36; sore feet, 46; at
Tuni, 51; leaves Tuni with river col-
umn, 573
visit to Galla chief, 68; power of
Mannlicher rifle, 79; starts on an ex-
pedition with Chanler, 81; endeavours
to induce natives to bring a sheep and
make friends, 103; shooting antelope
with rifle, 107; shoots
male rhinoceros, 110; climbs hill to

Christmas Day

working on his map, 117; injured his

knee, 119; Somali tells him of the

Rendile, 121; on the Marisi Alugwa

Zombo, 127; stricken with fever, 137;

shoots rhinoceros at distance of eighty

returns from the coast

across the

gets an observation, 64;

Mannlicher

take bearings, 111;

53° INDEX

yards, 145; in the Wamsara country,
160; as a medicine-man, 161; on the
knoll in Wamsara country, 165; checks
the rush of native Wamsara on the
rear guard, 176; sharp fighting, 177;
and the Embe, 194; attack of fever,
218; joins George, 238; kills a rhinoc-
eros, 270; shoots an elephant, 274;
surrounded by a party of Wakamba
tribe, 284; and the Rendile, 328; at
Lengaya, 331; at Lolokwi, 333; pro-
cures guides from the Wanderobbo,
349; kills two elephants, 350; his
dangerous adventure with an elephant,
369; discovers the source of the Sayer
River, 377; true story of his encounter
with an elephant, 377; nearly killed
by a rhinoceros, 380; dangerously
wounded, 382; his sufferings on the
march to Daitcho, 395; his departure
for Kibwezi missionary station, 400;
reports from George that he is im-
proving, 446; at Trieste, 516.

Honey, fermented, 220.

Horse and trappings of the Rendile, 311.

Hunting game for hungry men, 119; an
exciting experience with rhinoceros,
120; female antelope, 124; shot a
koodoo, 124; shot female oryx beisa,
124; large game plentiful, 131; buf-
faloes, 141; killed zebra at distances
varying from 600 to 800 paces, 142;
lion, 143; hippopotamus and Felix
the dog, 211; shooting giraffes, 213;
shooting rhinoceros with Mannlicher,
266; herd of zebra, 270; oryx, beisa,
270; rhinoceros, 270; elephant shot
by Lieutenant von Hé6hnel, 274;
giraffes, 287; rhinoceros, 287; shoot-
ing wart hogs, 287; shooting zebra,
327; rhinoceros charges the caravan,
349; elephant, with the Wanderobbo,
362; elephants, 366, 367, 369, 370,
371, 372; rhinoceros, 379; water-
buck and the dogs, 390; George’s
shooting expeditions, 396; water-buck,
406; hippopotamuses in the Tana,
408.

Hussein Mahomet, a Soudanese, 25,
459; tells the story of the desertion
of the Soudanese, 459; discloses
Hamidi’s treachery, 462; tells how
the desertion was planned, 464; re-
ceives present from Chanler, 515.

Hyena and rhinoceros hide, 130.

Hyena captures George’s dog, 337; near
the camp at night, 409; howling about
the camp, 473.

Tkutha, German mission station, 492.

Janjy tribe, praying at the Ngombe crater,
348.

Jombeni, the highest peak of the moun-
tain range, 106; Mountains, 146;
mountain range, 201 ; eastern slope,
213: :

Jones, Mr., American Consul at Zanzi-
bar, 7; acting American Consul at
Zanzibar, 499; American Consul at
Aden, formerly of Zanzibar, 513.

Jongeni, 16.

Juba River, 4.

Juma Moussa, a Soudanese, 23.

Kamanga, 285.

Karscho, Somali, 26, 121, 164, 289, 290;
wounded by a rhinoceros, 97; and
rhinoceros, 110 ; gun-bearer, 143; at
Ngombe crater, 344; trip to Sayer,
405; returns from food station at
Sayer, 423.

Kenya, Mount, 3, 83, 149; the northern
side, 151.

Kibwezi mission, 493; Dr. Charters, the
missionary in charge, 494.

Kikuyu tribe, hostages as guides, 102;
warriors, 102.

Kinakombe, eighty miles up the Tana, 30.

Kismayu, 11; natives alarmed, 27.

Kitinga, a group of villages, 486; friend-
liness of natives, 486.

Kome, 313, 314.

Kora, an extinct crater, 105, 109.

Koran, carried in Zanzibar expedition,
215.

INDEX

531

Kula, chief of Kinekombe, 45.

Lamoo, mouth of the Tana, 6; the in-
habitants of, 15 ; customs of natives,
15; purchase of cattle, 33.

Langalla, flows from the Jombeni range
and empties into the Tana River, 474.

Leikipia plateau, almost deserted, 376;
perfect pasturage for cattle, 378.

Lendovie, 286.

Lengaya, 331.

Lesegetetti, chief medicine-man of the
Rendile, 314.

Lion, adventure with a, 143; Chanler’s
adventure with, at Ngombe crater, 345.

Lions, 389, 393.

Liria visits Chanler’s camp, 417.

Locusts, dense as a cloud, 439.

Lokoli, 286.

Lokomogul, of the Rendile tribe, 305;
brings an old camel to trade, 306;
chief of Rendile, 296.

Lolokwi, Mount, the appearance of, 277;
expedition at, 277; send to, for donkey
saddles, 331.

Lomoro, a Rendile chief, 296; tribe of
the Rendile, 307; chief of Rendile,
310; presents Chanler with a dog, 338.

Lorian, Lake, 107; search for, 121; a
myth, a vast swamp, 138.

Lorian Swamp, the end and limit of the
Guaso Nyiro River, 140.

Loroghi range, 361, 378.

Lyserege, a Rendile chief, 297.

Mackenzie River, 73, 85, 201. .
Mahomet el Hussein, chief of Soudanese,
22; his incessant importuning, 22.
Malkakofira, Galla village, 61, 63, 67.
Manda, Isla of, 15.
Mannlicher: eating rifle, 77.
Marching, fr Seran to Daitcho, sev-
enty-five miles in three days and a half,
3353 Marisi Alugwa Zombo, plateau
on the River Guaso Nyiro, 124, 127.
Masai language spoken by Wanderobbo,
282; settled among the Wanderobbo,
374; tribe before their dispersal, 376.

Massa, expedition arrives at, 48.

Massowah, engaged Soudanese, 7.

Matthews, General, mountain range, 83.

Matthews, Sir Lloyd, 7, 499, 509; his ac-
tion with regard to the deserters,
500.

Mayolo, Wanderobbo guide, 286; his
ignorance of the country, 288; unable
to march at night, 289; advises that
the expedition leave the Rendile, 323;
at Lengaya, 331; his experience after
leaving Lieutenant von Héhnel, 392.

Measure, mode of measuring cloth in
Africa, 307.

Meat, cut into strips and dried in the sun,
287.

Medicine-man, natives’ faith in, 218.

Merifano, 38.

Megundu, the dwarf, 490.

Mhahoma, the cook, 509.

“Miraa,” natives of Embe chew leaves
and shoots of, 189.

Mission, German, at Ikutha, 493.

Mission, station at Ikutha, 493; at
Kibwezi, 493.

Missionaries, their influence with natives,
493.

Mkonumbi, first camp at, 11; surround-
ing country, 17; camp at, 18.

Mohamadi, second headman of porters,
9; punished for raiding, 51; head-
man of porters, 150; and six men de-

sert, 332.

Mohammedans refuse to eat elephant
meat, 275.

Mohamet Aman, Somali, 26; takes

canoes to Kinakombe, 30; with river
column, 44.

Motio, native guide, 105, 146, 151, 152,
155, 164, 173, 197, 212, 228, 405; his
appearance and history, 106, 110, I13,
118; his opinion of Lake Lorian, 121;
suspected of treachery, 162; his gal-
lant conduct during the fight, 179; his
explanation of the blood-brotherhood,
192; his last visit, 443.

Mountains seen from the
River, 92.

Mackenzie

532 INDEX

Mountain slopes 3500 feet above the sea | Pratt, Mr. Seth A., 508.

level, 110.

Mountains, peaks of the General Mat-
thews range, 354.

Mwalim, Hamis, headman of porters,
464; headman of deserters, 450.

Mwyru, chief, 487; slave-trading centre,
488.

Native customs, blood-brotherhood, 186.

Negro in cold weather, 154.

Neumann, Mr., on an ivory-trading ex-
pedition, 491.

Ngombe, a crater, 112, 268, 341, 343.

Night march, from Kamanga, 285; in
the desert, 289.

Oryx beisa, 129.
Osman Digna, 25.
Ostrich, 129.

Patta, Island of, 15.

Peters; . Pr. 3:

Photography, cameras carried on the ex-
pedition, 270.

Poisons, 257.

Pokomo, native tribe on the Tana, 16;
a kindly race, 38; bring presents to
camp, 40; their knowledge of agricult-
ure, 44; at Massa, 48; and the Galla,
61; meeting expedition on the march
to Hameye, 202.

Portal, Sir Gerald, 7.

Porters, wages paid to, 8; burden borne by
each, eighty pounds, 33; carry burdens
on their heads, 33; afraid to go for
water owing to hippopotamuses, 85;
have little protection from the weather,
85; carry dried meat on the march, 90;
effects of meat diet,90; death of, 131;
sick from dysentery, 150; their dread
of the Somali, 212; men excited with
Munchausen tales of the Rendile, 336;
killed by a rhinoceros, 387; demoral-
ized by rhinoceros charges, 388; and
the lions, 394; old men prefer slavery
to freedom, 403; prefer the Arab to
European for master, 404.

Pumwani, 12, 16; and Jongeni, their
raids, 17.

Rain, rainy season on the banks of the
Tana, 52; changes the appearance of
camp at Hameye, 81; sickness in
camp during the rainy season, 232;
rainy season at Daitcho, 427; the
Tana not fordable at any point dur-
ing rainy season, 443.

Ramazan, interpreter to expedition, 22;
chief of Soudanese, 457.

Rendile tribe, 4; exact habitat of tribe
unknown, 4; their wealth, 4; wander-
ings of, 4; tribe, 107; to be found near
Lorian, 121, 280; woman, married to
Bykender, 223; gathering of armed
natives, 292; their appearance, 294;
their craving for tobacco, 295; chiefs
visit camp, 296; never heard of Euro-
peans, 297; never travel at night, 298;
their ornaments, 299; warriors paint
their faces, 299; war dance, 300; re-
covery of camels taken by the dthom-
bon, 300; their language, 303; muti-
lated in an extraordinary manner, 303;
“we are the great Rendile tribe,” 304;
warriors visit Chanler’s camp, 306;
loathe any colour but white, 308;
mounted upon a horse, 311; women
of, and their costume, 312; tribe, num-
ber about 20,000, 313; supposed to
possess in round numbers 80,000 cam-
els, 313; their huts and wanderings
313; express contempt for the rifles
used by the Somali, 314; their belief
in a God, 315; are circumcised and na-
vels cut away, 315; polygamy in vogue,
315; their funeral ceremony, 316;
primogeniture, 316; adultery, 317;
murder, 317; theft, 317; the older men
act as judges, 317; their food, 317;
their shields and spears, 318; a chief
presides over each village, 318; strings
of beads around a man’s neck indicate
the number of men he has slain in
battle, 318; as to the origin of the

INDEX

533

Rendile, 319; their familiarity with
Masai tongue explained, 320; their
idea of a deity, 320; their govern-
ment, 321; position of their medicine-
men, 321; their most powerful village
presided over by Lokomogul, 321; un-
able to penetrate the mystery sur-
rounding them, 323;
Chanler’s camp at Seran, 328; aston-
ished at the power of a rifle bullet,
330; spread false reports, 418; recep-
tion of Zanzibari caravan, 426.

Rhinoceros, 129, 151; herd of, 148;
Lieutenant von Hohnel nearly killed
by, 380; charge the caravan, 385; and
the dogs, 391.

Rifles used to slay game, 77; which rifles
best for general use, 78; letter to Zoz-
don Field concerning, 79;
large game, 80; used in shooting hip-
popotamuses, 86; carried by men in

warriors visit

shooting

an unsatisfactory condition, 148.
Rivers having their sources at Mount
Kenya, 115.
Road from Voi to the coast, 497.
Rudolph, Lake, 1.

Sabaki River, 115.

Sadi, captain of the fleet, 17.

Saleh’s Hill, 83.

Samburu, 306; forced into semi-serfdom
to the Rendile, 316.

Samburu tribe, 281.

Sayer, camp at, 352; River, its source, 377.

Scenery, view from camp in the moun-
tains, III.

Scientific travellers and sportsmen, 76.

Seran, 327; oasis in the desert, 287.

Seyd Ali, Sultan of Zanzibar, 7; news of
his death, 401.

Shooting, walleri antelope, 70; water-
buck and antelope, 76; use of rifle in
provisioning caravan, 76; for food, 77;
Soudanese noisy enthusiasm at the
sight of game, 84; water-buck, 84;
hippopotamus, 85; rhinoceros, 92, 96;
antelope with Mannlicher, 107; rhi-

shot by Lieutenant

noceros, yon

Hohnel, 110; herd of oryx beisa, 111;
herd of grantii, 111; male oryx, 114.

Sissini, 51.

Siu, Island of, 15.

Skin of oryx beisa used by Somali for
shields, I11.

Slavery in East Africa, 404.

Slaves purchased by Arabs leased out to
European travellers, 5.

Slave-trading centre at Mwyru’s, 488.

Snake, Chanler’s adventure with, 342.

Somali, 212; wanderings of Somali tribes,
4; engaged for the care of beasts of bur-
den, 6; good knowledge of shooting,
28; attack elephant-hunters, 54; and
Soudanese, jealousy between the two
races, 74; certain beasts unlawful for
them to eat, 89; their custom to spend
the night in prayer on the eve of a
dangerous enterprise, 164; good fight-
ing men, 178; enemies of the Rendile,
303; robbed by the natives of Daitcho,
472; their superstitious fear of strange
noises, 473; and Soudanese, discharged
at Aden, 511.

Soudanese as soldiers, 21; excellent shots,
28; dissatisfaction of, 46; attempt to
assert their independence, 74; violent
discussion over the relative merits of
rhinoceros and hippopotamus, 92;
refuse to eat meat, 108; threaten to

they have
grain diet, 108; good fighting men,
178; desert the expedition, 457; de-
serters taken into the service of the
Sultan of Zanzibar, 507.

Stairs, Captain, 9.

Stanley, 5.

Stephanie, Lake, I.

Subaki, 47.

Subugo (forest), 378.

Suliman Kemenya, an ardent revolution-
ist, 420.

Sulphate of magnesium, ground white
with, 115.

Superstition of natives, 194.

Sururu, his character, 9; tent-boy, 9,
509; wounded by a rhinoceros, 133.

starve themselves unless

534

INDEX

Swimmers, the Wathaka tribe good swim-
mers, 445.

Tana River, 3, 4; used as a means of
transportation of goods into the inte-
rior, 16; forests along the banks, 18;
reports of the natives starving, 30;
building camp, 52; tribes on its shores,
61; flows through narrow valleys and
rocky hills, 82; its source Mount
Kenya, 115; hunting hippopotamuses,
408; swollen by rain, 427, 436; not
fordable at any point, 443; a cataract,
475:

Teide, German at Lamoo, 15.

Teita tribe, 496.

Teita superstitious, 497.

Teleki, Count, 1, 3.

Tobacco as used by the Wamsara, I61.

Traders encamped at Daitcho complain
of natives, 457.

Trading-post owned by a Scotchman
named Dick, 487.

Trail, mountain, 112.

Trees, palm, and acacias, 122; the bao-
bab, 100; group of poplars, 131; dhum
palms, 287; the Morio, etc., 378.

Tulu Kuleso, 67.

Tuni, 51; departure from, 57.

Turcana, expedition starts for, 327.

Uganda, 7.
Ukambani, 483.
Ura River, 212.

Vanderdecken, Baron, 3.
Villiers, Captain, expedition, 203.

Wadi Farhan, his death, 438.

Wakamba tribe, 284; trading and hunt-
ing for ivory, 406; how they travel,
406; excellent shots with bow and
arrow, 408; good material in them for
soldiers, 408; guide, 469;
strange story told by an old man, 485;
courtesies to women, 485.

Wamsara tribe, 146; natives pasturing
cattle, 151; huts of, 151; armed war-

acts as

riors, 152; efforts to trade with them,
1545
157; manner of dressing the hair, 157;
their weapons, 157; blood-brother-
hood, 159; beautiful aspect of the
country, 160; manner of burying the
dead, 160; their manner of using to-
bacco, 161; war dance, 162; attack
the expedition, 168; again attack
the expedition, 174; their physique,
190.

Wanderobbo tribe, 145; acts as guide to
the country of the Rendile, 264; old
man and seven old women brought to
camp, 276; and the honey bird, 277;
live in a state of chronic starvation,
278; their mode of life, 279; gives
information about the Rendile, 280;
fine appearance of the men, 281;
guides quarrel over hog meat, 287;
their method of trapping elephants,
350; saved from starvation, 350; beg
for medicine to kill game, 352; offer
to sell ivory for meat, 352; their man-
ner of trading, 353; honesty in trad-
ing, 353; beg Chanler to kill ele-
phants before leaving them, 354;
village at Bugoi, 355; breaking up
of dried bones for food, 356; offer to
guide expedition whence they would
find elephants, 357; headman of vil-
lage “Leguinan,” 357; their joy at
the killing of an elephant, 365; eat
all parts of the elephant except the
skull, 368; again offer to guide Chanler
to find elephants, 369; live upon ele-
phant meat, 372; no fixed abode, 372;
a low type of natives, 373; prefer
starvation to cultivation of the soil,
373; three types, 373; their mode of
living, 374; their number about five
hundred, 376; hunters and their don-
keys, 393.

Wanyanwezi tribe as porters, 56.

cloaks of untanned goatskin,

Wasania tribe on the Tana, 61.

Water, carrying water in the desert,
108.

Waterless march, 340.

INDEX

535

Water-buck and the dogs, 390.

Wathaka tribe, extraordinary swimmers,
445.

Weapons carried by the warriors of
Wamasara, 156.

Werndl carbine, carried by porters, 21.

Winchester rifle, 77; as a sporting gun,
Ill.

Wilson, Mr., 508; road-making at Voi,
495:

Witu transferred by the Germans to the
British, 11.

Women, native women of tribe of Kikuyu,
101; trade in products of soil carried
on by women of the Embe, 239.

Worship, native, 188.

Zanzibar, enlistment of porters, 7; gov-
ernment of, 509.

Zanzibari, porters used in East Africa, 5;
caravan, its composition, 214; cara-
van, a white flag carried at head, 215;
caravans, rifles carried by men, 217;
not fit for work in desert country, 284;
discuss the probabilities of freeing the
Sultanate of Zanzibar from British in-
fluence, 402;
traders refuse to take charge of goods,
469; who remained faithful to Chanler,
509.

Zebra, 129, 147; small herds, 124; as
beasts of burden, 147.

| Zeriba, deserted zeriba, 55, 130.

visit to the Rendile, 426;

=
™.
f
a
; 5
;
|
5
"

oy

i

W
i.

E

f

400.000

Seale 1: 2,

OKiemaju T.
JERAL V
OF THE EXPEDITION

Engatanec »)

RANDILE, SAMBURU

Root aan oe
C Bw, PC

enejijor Samburu

o -

THE TANA DISTRICT
‘or a 1

oo

Lip Ee

WVb

Midgan Somali

Scale 1: 750.000
Gourse of River according |"

to Cpt. Dundas

Mgsaasit
nF, eds, uteaat Sem
DP het ae ena

Rapaynic

i langela- ©
Langata- “Barta
Suk ut a (SsltSteppe)

Langatarhdamecs

a? .

. = © _Seamba
ie Sind <a Pad

B)

ao 1 ey
| < q ied by Ranall
‘ Vd if za inks 3 landile in Fain
amu | | A 7,9 nhablied By Nand y
» bd 5
— i IF Ueda de Han
District cceasisnally J

Byes:
1
Serct BarmeStauaw Sf yy D1 LE and SAMBURU
tyomads (Gonels Horses, Guile Sheps Donkeys)

inhabited by Wandarebbo

Haldayan Han

[Water scarce)

ae? se

eanavibe Nama WS si ra92 “
oe gee Kirrimar Plain

. Hf 2 irmerly inhabited by Randil

Ng HE aon FPecmeriy inhabited by Randle

(2 Stations turing reing season.

Wirypearing further Ba xt-

MAP

Uninhobited

|
fi
ij
> pbteoated eisier an
‘i roa a i}
7 |

——

Surveyed during F |
WILLIAM ASTOR CHANLER’S EXPEDITION ;
EAST- AFRICA. 1892-93

by Lieutenant

“UDWig von HORNEY
Imp. and) Royal Austro Hungarian Navy

a)
Wow 13. 1887

a
ov. 7.1887

OC te TEEA.C,)

Odo Bory Ruowa of the Galla

Korokoreef the Wapakomo |

4

ce

{ ==

Gi o ea
thee salt pce Count Tele tf WD

\
(

Mountain Nac? ———= Surveyed Koute

TRIBAL NAMES

District Names $195 Heights in fret =e==== Non surveyed Route
Tillages ond -maned Ganping grounds ——~ River beds found ary

> Frobable course of water during rains

Se ae G

4 sees Betrees
epeses:

<3
3 te
<>
epee gaat
Serre reermeryereree
cir ae A an ee

Sere rraer ree y
ett eee

5 pa peal

+ =e
Pat eto

v SEG

re

<7

wae aig wo Pape
SSeS

bor rey,

vLYES
pts.

sins