Through Santo Domingo and Haiti : a cruise with the Marines

THE LIBRARY

OF

THE UNIVERSITY

OF CALIFORNIA

LOS ANGELES

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LOS \NGELBS
LIBRARY

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THROUGH

Santo Domingo and
Haiti

(

A Cruise With the Marines

By

SAMUEL GUY INMAN

Executive Secretary of the Committee on Co-operation
in Latin America

/

Report of a Visit to these Island
Republics in the Summer of 1919

RNIA

JF.

COMMITTEE ON CO-OPERATION
IN LATIN AMERICA

25 MADISON AVENUE
NEW YORK CITY

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CONTENTS

PAGE

*• Map of Santo Domingo and Haiti 2

. Foreword 4

Part I. Santo Domingo

I. General Observations and Travel Notes 5

TI. History — Government — American Occupation 15

III. Commerce — Transportation — Resources 24

IV. The People and Their Social Problems 34

V. Dominican Authors and Literature 40

VI. Education and Religion 45

Part II. Haiti

I. History 54

1 1. Crossing the Island 57

1 1 1. Problems of American Occupation 68

1 V. Commerce and Natural Resources 11

V. Education and Sanitation 74

\ I . The People 7«;

VII. Missions in Haiti 86

Bibliography 91

FOREWORD

At the Annual Meeting of the Committee on Co-operation
in Latin America, January 13, 1919, the Executive Secretary
was authorized to make a survey of religious, social and
educational conditions in the Dominican Republic and Haiti.

The report presented herewith is a brief digest of the in-
formation gathered on this trip, presented partly in the form
of a brief account of the trip itself, together with recommenda-
tions for the development of an educational, social and
spiritual program that will be a real help to these two needy
countries.

Much material gleaned from the few available recent
authoritative sources on Haiti and Santo Domingo, of which
Schoenrich's "Santo Domingo, A Country with a Future," is
easily first, is included in the following chapters. Some of
the best of this quoted matter is now out of print. The
writer can scarcely assume authority or claim credit for all
of this information, though careful effort has been made to
insure its reasonable accuracy. There is need for a real hand-
book on the Island, and it is the meeting, in part at least, of
this demand, rather than the production of a work that should
conform to all the canons of literary usage that has been the
raison d'etre of this booklet. For other defects, no further
apology is offered than the necessary haste of preparation.

A visit to Santo Domingo and Haiti probably carries with
it more surprises for the average American than a trip to any
other neighboring countries. After only five days on a slow
boat from New York one finds himself in the midst of con-
ditions which continually remind him, on one hand, of the
heart of Africa, and on the other of the neglect and arrested
development arising from Spain's abuse of the oldest of her
American colonies. The problem that the United States is
facing in practically taking over the island is an enormous
one. Its seriousness is probably recognized by very few indeed.

S. G. I.

PART ONE
SANTO DOMINGO

CHAPTER I
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS AND TRAVEL NOTES

"United States Urged to Withdraw from Santo Domingo
— Spanish Parliament Expresses Desire," was a recent head-
ing carried in our morning papers.

And many people rubbed their eyes and asked what it
meant, and where was Santo Domingo and what had we to
do with it? Just as a friend when told by a United States
Marine Chaplain of being ordered to go to Santo Domingo,
exclaimed : "Oh, ah, that's too bad ! How will you go, by
San Francisco?"

The Dominican Republic, or Santo Domingo (don't say
(< San Domingo," there is no such combination in the Spanish
language) is a country occupying two-thirds of the second
largest island in the West Indies. It lies squarely between
Cuba and Porto Rico, and is two-fifths as large as the former
and six times as large as the latter.

The high spots of Dominican history are these: Discovered
by Columbus on his first voyage and made the seat of the first
permanent European colony in the New World ; the home
of Christopher, Bartolome and Diego Columbus ; of Las Ca-
sas; Cortez ; Ponce de Leon, and most of the old Conquista-
dores, who here first fell on their knees to thank God for a
new found world and next fell on the Aborigines and took
the said world for themselves. The slaughter of the natives
was so ruthlessly carried out that the colony lost its wonder-
ful prosperity, as its workers were exterminated within fifty
years after the discovery. Then, for three centuries, it at-
tracted little attention from the outside world.

About the beginning of the 19th Century, in the general
movement for independence in Latin America. Haiti, treeing
herself from France, extended her rule over Santo Domingo.
The Negro Republic maintained its domination with its policy
of making the whole island black, until 1844. Independence
was lost to Spain in 1861, but regained four years later, and

maintained, in spite of almosl constant internal disorder, until
July 1916. when the United States hoisted the Star and Stripes
over the turbulent people. As far hack as 1907 the United
States had signed a convention with the Dominican Republic,
whereby we collected her customs and administered her
finances. As the continued revolutions had largely centered
around the custom houses, which were the principal source
of national revenue, it was thought that in keeping these from
the revolutionary leaders the too ardent desire for office would
be largely eliminated and armed disturbances stopped.

This did not prove true, however. During the presidency
of Jimenez in 1914 his old rival, Baez, challenged his power.
With the consent of Jimenez the United States landed marines
on both the northern and southern parts of the island. Those
landing on the north had a rather serious time, fighting their
way across the island to the capital, which, by this time, was
pacified. The new provisional president, Henriquez, refusing
to sign a treaty proposed by the United States, along the
lines recently arranged with Haiti, the United States, which
controlled all the revenues, iii turn, refused to turn over any
money to the government. The deadlock was broken on No-
vember 29, 1916, by the issuing of a proclamation by Rear
Admiral Knapp placing the country under martial law. It
has so remained up to the present.

It was into this interesting political situation, an interest
which is intensified ten-fold by the history and marvelous
natural resources and beauty of the island, that I found
myself thrust in the summer of 1919.

Every one had impressed on me the difficulty of travel in
that part of the world. There are two ways of getting to
Santo Domingo. One is by the Clyde Line from New York.
taking six days to the northern port of Puerto Plata and
twelve days to Santo Domingo City on the southern shore.
The other way is to go to Porto Rico and take a little coaster
across the channel. There is only one boat now running from
Porto Rico to Santo Domingo, which makes a trip about every
ten days, but it is so crowded that half of the would-be pas-
sengers are generally left behind. There being practically
no roads on the Island, it is quite difficult to travel, even on
horseback, at the present time, as swollen rivers and bandits
might delay one indefinitely. All my information was to the
effect that it was impossible to get from Santo Domingo to
Haiti. Added to lack of ships, absence of railways between
important centers and almost equal lack of wagon roads, the
next report that there was such a demand for passage north

6

(iii steamships at this season that $500 is often offered for
a reservation, makes one appreciate some of the difficulties.
1 chose to go by way of Porto Rico and through the
courtesy of Captain Blood of the U. S. N. Yacht "Kwashing"
1 was enabled to go directly from that country to Santo I )<
raingo City. Fortunately the "Kwashing" stopped several
hours at La Romana and at San Pedro de Macoris, centers of
American sugar interests, giving me the necessary time to
see both places.

On the first day in the Capital I was presented to the Pres-
ident of the Republic, the Minister of Foreign Affairs and
Education, the Secretary of the Treasury and other cabinet
officers. All of them speak perfect English and offered to help
me in my proposed studies in every possible way. Perhaps
I ought to explain what 1 had not fully realized until my
arrival that the President of the Republic is Rear Admiral
Snowden, of the United States Navy, the Minister of Foreign
Affairs and Education is Colonel Rufus Lane, U. S. Marine
Corps, and that all the Executive and Legislative power is
entirely in the hands of the U. S. Navy, not even a semblance
of native Dominican Government being maintained. There
are. of course, many advantages in this, one, for instance,
being that when the United States Minister who is courteous-
ly maintained before the Dominican Republic calls on the Pres-
ident of that country, as he does practically every day, he
does not have to use an interpreter, nor does he find it diffi-
cult to make the "President" see the matter in hand from the
American standpoint!

Without discussing at all the merits of the present situa-
tion, one is deeply impressed with the fine spirit in which the
Admiral and his cabinet are carrying on their work, which
they seem to regard as a real missionary job. The Admiral
said that when he first received the request from Admiral
Benson in Paris to go to Santo Domingo, he said abruptly,
"1 won't go." Benson's cable back to the Department was:
"Disappointed in Snowden." The Department again put it
up to Snowden, telling him he was holding up the whole navy
program. So he decided to go. Now that he is down there
he has become so interested in helping these people that he
would like to spend the rest of his official life working out the
problems now before him.

Colonel Lane, who is doing a wonderful work in develop-
ing primary schools, said to the Admiral, when there was
talk of having the Navy officials paid extra from the Dominican
treasury, that he would refuse to accept such pay.

Among the Dominicans who were particularly gracious
to me was Archbishop Nouel, to whom I was presented by
the American physician at the head of the Marine Medical
Corps. I explained that I represented the American Protest-
ant churches who were awakening to their duty in giving to
the Dominican people spiritual help by means of schools, in-
stitutional churches and hospitals, and that we would hope
to work in harmony with all forces endeavoring to uplift the
people. He said there was great need for such a practical
program as we proposed and he hoped that we would carry
it out. He added that he found it very difficult to raise funds
for the Church, that there was great indifference to religion
and that the ignorance was appalling. He took me through
the old Cathedral, begun in 1512, showed me all their wonder-
ful treasures, including the resting place of the bones of Colum-
bus, and told me the thrilling story of the finding of his body
during some repairs on the Cathedral, when it had been form-
erly supposed that it had been removed to Spain.

Mention of the Cathedral brings to mind the wonderful
historic monuments that are found wherever you turn in this
oldest of American towns. The San Nicolas Church, built
in 1502, the tower in which Columbus was confined, the old
building where the first university was founded in 1538, houses
where Pizarro, Las Casas and other worthies lived — they are
all here, with a hundred other things, many of which are no
less interesting for the doubtful historicity of the legends that
cling to them.

The chief trouble is that little progress has been made since
those glorious days. This capital has no street cars, no
sewers, water or telephone systems; only a few private elec-
tric light plants and no building ever erected entirely for
school purposes. Illiteracy on the Island is calculated at 90
to 95 percent for persons over ten years of age. Many country
people have no sense of numbers above five. There are prac-
tically no roads, and the northern and southern parts of the
Island are like two different countries. Venereal diseases,
hookworm, malaria, and tuberculosis run riot without any one
knowing how to treat them.

The primary object of my visit was to survey the country
and suggest a united program of service which could be
undertaken to help in the Island's development. Practically
every person I asked as to what the people were in particular
need of replied, "Everything." If I suggested this or that
or the other institution or activity the reply was "Yes, any-
thing you can do for those people will be worth while. Don't

be afraid of duplicating- or doing too much. That would be
impossible."

After a week in the Capital, I drew up a tentative program
and invited ten gentlemen to meet me at luncheon to discuss
it. There were present the Admiral and his staff, or the Pres-
ident and his Cabinet, as you choose to call them, the Chap-
lain of the Marines, the Archdeacon of the Episcopal Church,
and others. Admiral Snowden expressed himself later in a
letter as follows:

"I beg to thank you for your hospitality of yesterday at
the Enlisted Men's Club, which was a most enjoyable meet-
ing. I was very much interested in the program you pre-
sented and which we discussed, and most cordially endorse
the program and hope that we can arrange co-operation so
that the many beneficial institutions there outlined can be
materialized for the benefit of the Dominican people. These
people are in the greatest need of the institutions therein
specified. They are to a great extent a backward people who
need an object lesson in modern ideas and ideals. They would
be willing to help themselves later on, at which time they can
be taught the value of these moral and industrial activities."

Ten full days in the capital gave me just the time I needed
so when I boarded the U. S. Supply Ship "Kittery" I felt that
I had finished up all that I had on my program to accomplish.

Altogether the most modern community in Santo Domingo
is the great sugar central of La Romana. The town, with its
large factory, the warehouses, the offices and the trim bunga-
lows of the officials and of the seventy-five or more American
employees, looks like a little bit of the United States set down
in the tropics. The whole represents an investment of $6,000,-
000 and is one of the largest and most modern sugar estates
on the Island. The company owns a plantation of 100,000
acres carefully plotted in 100 acre lots and close account is
kept of each plot as to its fertility and yield. Part of the land
is set aside for grazing, and a fine herd of blooded cattle is
maintained. The native laborers are paid from 90 cents to
$1.50 per day, according to the average of work accomplished.
A splendid boarding club is maintained for the single Amer-
ican employees and a young woman from Boston teaches the
little group of American children in the colony.

The sugar company employs 200 Porto-Rican ex-police-
men to guard their plantation and factory. The murder of
two American engineers by bandits two years ago caused a
panic among the other workers from the United States, ami
this precaution is felt necessary to insure the safety of the
foreigners as well as of the property. A force of Marin
also on constant guard.

San Pedro de Macoris (45 miles cast of Santo Domingo
City), is one of the most modern towns of the Republic a -

as one of the three chief seaports. Until 1885 it was only a
small fishing- village. Then the investment of foreign capital
in the sugar industry began to make the place the flourishing
little city that it is today. In contrast to the disorder and
dilapidation of many older and more picturesque town- on
the Island, San Pedro has pretty, modern houses, good streets,
a neat main plaza and modern docking facilities.

On the peninsula of Samana is an American negro colony
that was settled long before the Civil War in the United
States. Few of the original colonists survive, but their chil-
dren speak English, and many are still faithful to the little
Methodist Church which has existed among them from the
beginning of the settlement.

Owing to the courtesy of the Government I was able to
save much time in visiting the northern section of the coun-
try by taking passage to Puerto Plata on a government trans-
port. From Puerto Plata, I found, mirable dictu — a railroad
^jto take me over to Santiago. There I met the Secretary of
the Commission of Training Camp Activities, who agreed
to risk the trip with me to Cap Haitien and Port-au-Prince
in his Ford. So, in spite of rain and bandits and all people
had told me, I got a little look in at Haiti, as well as the towns
of Northern Santo Domingo before I took the Clyde line boat
from Puerto Plata for New York.

Puerto Plata is the most important port on the northern
shore of Santo Domingo. It has at present about 15,000 people.
Its streets were planned by Columbus, the earliest settlement
here being in 1499. In 1543 it was attacked by pirates and
drifted into decay afterward. In order to stop smuggling the
Spanish Government completely destroyed the town in the
early part of the 16th century. A hundred years later it was
again built up, receiving with Monte Cristi the privileges of
a free port. It is now a modern town, compared with the
other Dominican municipalities, with clean, paved streets,
electric lights and some very good architecture, including the
new custom house. The main plaza is very attractive.

I found the northern part of the Island more progressive
than the southern, with a larger percentage of white blood.

Puerto Plata is one of the two ports of Santo Domingo
that boasts of a railroad into the interior. This road, a tiny
narrow gauge, runs up over the mountains to Santiago, 41
miles distant, and lately has been extended sixteen miles
further to Moca. This is one of the steepest roads in existence,

10

the grade being- at some points as much as 11 per cent. It
was started by Belgian capital, but was afterward taken over
by Americans and is now owned by the Dominican Govern-
ment. There is a passenger train every other day, which is
pulled up over the mountain by a powerful little engine, mak-
ing the 41 miles in not much over three hours. As I did not
want to wait a day longer, the obliging American agent gave
me a complimentary passage over on the freight car, in com-
pany with a United States Marine mail carrier, who enlivened
the trip from 6:30 A. M. to 1 P. M. with stories of the glories

of the Marines and the "rottenness of this here country."

Santiago is the second city of the Dominican Republic.
No one knows how many inhabitants there are anywhere in
the island but Santiago is estimated by the most careful
authorities as having about 20,000 people. It is compactly
built, clean and attractive. The people have an air of busi-
ness about them, at least in comparison with the inhabitants
of other towns I had visited. The Hotel Garibaldi might
be termed the "best in the Republic" as it has an annex which
puts it a bit past the Frances of the Capital. As life is entirely
in the open here, the air is preferable to locking your room
against thieves who do not seem to exist in the towns. The
meals are very good from the standpoint of Dominican cook-
ing, which means plenty of meat and oils. While fruit is
plentiful and cheap, an aguacate or "alligator pear" which
would cost in Xew York seventy-live cents selling here for two
cents, yet one must buy his fruit extra as a general thing.
This is because it is not customary in most of Latin America
to eat fruit at meals.

Santiago has little of historic interest, since earthquakes
have destroyed all of the older part of the city. There are
no buildings of architectural importance. The central plaza,
as usual, is flanked by the Cathedral, the State and Municipal
palaces and commercial buildings. There are two good clubs
in the city, to which the best people belong, one of them having
a most attractive building tricing the pla/.a. It is open on all
sides, and evidently arranged principally for dancing and for
sitting about tables to talk and drink. Aside from the im-
mense floor space dedicated to the matters mentioned, there
are shower baths and a library with probably a hundred
heavy volumes and a dozen periodicals. There are few "privi-
leges" therefore connected with the club, but social i I
There are no athletic grounds of any kind and no orgai
sports in Santiago, a need which is likewise unmet in all other
Dominican towns.

n

As is always my custom in passing a public building in
Latin America, I went in to visit the club and take a chance
on making some interesting acquaintance. The first gentle-
man whom I met took great interest in showing me around
the club and giving me detailed information about the city.
He then introduced me to a young dentist who has recently
graduated from the University of Pennsylvania. This young
man took me first to a private hospital conducted by a young
physician who took his training in Belgium and has built, out
of the funds made from his practice, one of the prettiest and
best arranged private hospitals I have ever seen, with operat-
ing room, X-ray apparatus and seemingly all modern equip-
ment. He is now beginning the enlargement of the plant from
a single story with ten private rooms to a three-story build-
ing. He has a large clinic every day, charging four dollars
to each patient who attends the clinic and has a prescription
filled. There is a hospital being built by the "Board of Char-
ities" of the city, which is an organization that administers
the funds of the lottery that are destined for charity. This is
to be a fifty-bed hospital but there has been a great deal of
delay in finishing the building and it is not sure of having
any kind of support. All of the public hospitals of the Island,
such as they are, are entirely dependent on the lotteries for
support, as are all the other eleemosynary institutions. The
Military Government is now considering measures to abolish
the lotteries, but it is very evident that this cannot be done
until some way is found to finance these institutions.

Near Santiago lies the most famous and the richest of all
Dominican Valleys, which was christened by Columbus "La
Vega Real," the Royal Plain. The finest view of this great
plain is secured from the summit of "El Santo Cerro," the high
hill on the top of which Columbus erected a cross, which was
miraculously sustained when the Indians attacked him at this
point and were repulsed when they saw the Holy Virgin her-
self sustaining the Cross. We climbed the steep ascent in
our Ford, — modern desecration of an ancient shrine — and look-
ed out over one of the most impressive stretches of rich
tropical growth visible in any part of the world. The deep
green foliage is relieved here and there by the brown fields
of cultivated cocoa, coffee, or tobacco and silver threads mark
the course of several rivers, winding away toward the sea,
fifty miles distant. Moca, La Vega and even San Francisco
de Macoris are easily discovered, and far to the north are the
lofty mountains of Monte Cristi, one peak of which reaches
an elevation of nearly 10,000 feet.

12

Santiago boasts two daily papers, both published in the
afternoon, because, as a gentleman explained to me, "after-
dinner people would like to read a bit, but in the morning they
would be entirely too busy." From the number of people sit-
ting around in the plaza, the stores and other places discussing
such exciting subjects as I overheard, as to whether a man
is better off married or single, as to whether the law or medi-
cine offers more attractions, etc., one would think that some
time might be snatched from the whirl of business to glance
over the headlines of a morning paper. Since political sub-
jects are taboo for the press, the chief interest of Latin-Amer-
icans must go untouched. The newspaper men tell me that
it is really hard to find anything to put in their papers and
that their subscriptions are falling off. The contents of all
papers have to be submitted to the government censorship be-
fore publication. I was interested to see three pages of the
daily of Puerto Plata given to the publication of material on
Panamericanism which had been furnished by the Committee
on Co-operation in Latin America.

News down here is certainly scarce. The British Consul
in the Capital said that he had a hard time making his gov-
ernment realize that it is further in time from Puerto Plata
to the Capital than it is from London to New York. But
this is an actual fact since there is no road across the Island.
Imagine the Consul's feelings when, during the war his gov-
ernment informed him that they could not make arrangements
very easily to have him receive the daily war news by cable,
on account of the high cost of cable service to Santo Domingo,
but they would have the news mailed to him from Havana.
It may look like a short distance on the map, but the truth
is he could get mail quicker from London than from Havana.

I visited the office of "El Diario," and had an interesting talk
with several literary lights. Being newspaper men they may
have been "talking for publication" when they praised the
American occupation and the fine work that was being done,
the advancement of business, the development of schools, etc.
since the country was able to have a little breathing spell from
revolution. Yet this is the testimony that one gets pretty gen-
erally. It is hard to tell how much of it represents fear of
getting the ill will of the authorities and how much is due t<>
real conviction. But there is no question that the business men
greatly appreciate knowing that they are safe in ordering goods
and in counting on continued ability to do business. This is
something that the country has not known from the time it

13

was a Spanish colony until the American occupation in 1916.

Is the fact of this security, coupled with a substantial
advance in primary education, and improvements in roads,
harbors and other material matters, a fair return for submit-
ting to a foreign military government? The Dominicans raised
a fund and sent their deposed President to the Peace Con-
ference at Paris to say the price was too great, and to ask for
relief. The protest of the Spaniards referred to in the be-
ginning of the present chapter was no doubt due to Presi-
dent Henriquez's work. He has since visited the United
States on the same mission of protest and no doubt will meet
with sympathy as he travels voicing this plea. The arrange-
ment that most Dominicans seem to prefer is not like the one
we have with Haiti, but similar to the one with Cuba, whereby
we may intervene to restore order when necessary.

The work of the Marines in Santo Domingo deserves a
great deal more notice than it has received. Most of the en-
listed men there now went in only for the duration of the war,
and are greatly dissatisfied at not getting back home. The
bandit situation in the interior is very bad and seemingly
getting no better, and more men are needed. Some men have
been up in the hills, chasing bandits, sleeping on their guns
and hiking from fifteen to twenty-five miles a day for a year
or more. None of our men in France have been called upon
to go through the privations which these men up in the bandit
country have suffered, away from all civilized communities,
never seeing a white woman, or a book, or a home, or receiv-
ing any ennobling influence. It is hard enough on the men
in the centers where there are generally clubs with once in a
while a motion picture and a new magazine. But the men
who are actively campaigning in the rough, bandit-infested
interior of Santo Domingo deserve our deepest sympathy.

What is our duty toward Santo Domingo? Here is one
of the most fertile countries in the world. Fifteen crops of
cane can be reaped from one planting, whereas in Porto Rico
it must be planted every year and in Cuba every three years.
Great fields of cocoa, cocoanut palms, tobacco, sugar cane,
bananas, mangoes and aguacates are continually passed on the
country roads. Mahogany, gold, petroleum and many other
riches exist in abundance. Yet, some 95 per cent of the people
are unable to read and write ; the interior of the country is
practically unknown ; many country people are unable to count
above four or five ; disease is widespread with practically no
medical attention for the poor and, in general, the blessings
of Christian civilization are lacking.

14

CHAPTER II

HISTORY— GOVERNMENT— AMERICAN
OCCUPATION

Santo Domingo is almost as unknown to the outside world
today as it was when discovered by Columbus, notwithstand-
ing the fact that it is the second largest, the richest and the
most fertile of the Antilles; that it was the seat of the first
European settlement in the New World; that its capital is
the oldest European city in the Western Hemisphere, and
that within its borders repose the bones of Columbus him-
self. It may well be called "The Island Where Time Has
Stood Still," for, with all its beauties and the richness of its
natural resources, much of it is as primitive and crude as in
the days of the first Spanish settlement four hundred years
ago.

Nowhere is the rise, decline and fall of Spanish Colonial
power so vividly exemplified as in Santo Domingo with its
history teeming with great names and with deeds now bloody,
now paltry, with conquest and quarrels, discovery and piracy.
with exploits and exploitation, slavery and revolution. No-
where was there builded into the foundations of the civil struc-
ture that love of home, of popular education and of equality
before the law that have given to the United States what-
ever of stability its institutions may boast. Religious zeal
was there, but it was exotic and misguided, seeking its finest
expression in a monasticism that contributed little more than
faint intermittent protests against the general decay of popular
morals caused largely by the brutal exploiting of subject
peoples in the general greed for riches without labor.

Santo Domingo is more than an island or a Republic. It
is a monument, an object lesson in modern history of the
ancient truth that "Righteousness exalteth a nation" and that
"Sin is a reproach to any people." Of course, the Island is
not alone in this rather unenviable distinction. All lands, all
histories, speak constantly of reward and of retribution: Bui
about the crumbling walls of that ancient colonial capitol,
Spain's first proud citadel in the New World, seem to 1-
more than elsewhere the flavor of mortality, the lesson of
the strength of the meek and the futility of force.

18

The tall galleons weighed anchor and sailed away gorged
with chests of doubloons and with silver altar rails, only to
fall easy prey to the hardy buccaneers of Elizabeth's despised
island kingdom. Governors and Viceroys gained power and
cast their chain-laden rivals into slimy dungeons only in turn
to bow to the headsman's axe; while all the time the lives
of scores of thousands of slaves, Indians and Negroes, were
cruelly ground out in the mines and on the plantations of the
Conquistadores. This is the background to the bloody story
of Hispaniola. It explains to some extent her present social
instability. Romance is there, but the blood that cries out
from her fertile ground demands justice and a new spirit
of brotherhood and service.

Santo Domingo is surpassed in historic monuments by
none of the West Indies. Her capital city boasts of being
the burial place of Columbus. Some years ago it was thought
that his bones had been sent to Europe, but later excavations
made it clear that some mistake had been made, for the original
relics of the great discoverer were unearthed from the solid
masonry of the walls of the cathedral where he was known to
be buried. This happened in the course of some repair work
on the building. The city was also the scene of a tragic in-
cident in the life of the great Genoese, his imprisonment. The
ruins of this prison can still be seen. Accused of abusing his
authority, he was cruelly confined in this wretched old fortress
as a reward for having discovered the Western World and
bringing to Spain the possessions that for a time made her the
dominant power in Europe.

After the time of Columbus, his successors neglected the
island colony and about 1630 it fell into the hands of French
buccaneers whose lodgment there was confirmed by treaty
in 1697. Their rule was not agreeable to the natives and
the slaves, and there were numerous uprisings during the next
two centuries, which finally resulted in independence being
established.

The early history of the colony was one of almost con-
tinuous struggle, either internal or, with the buccaneers,
until July 22, 1775, when the Spanish portion of the island
was ceded to the French who had already taken possession of
the western portion. French control lasted until July 11,
1809, when Spain took advantage of the disturbed state of
the country and secured the surrender of the capital city to
Don Juan Sanchez Ramirez, who proclaimed the re-incorpora-
tion of the country into Spain. This state of affairs continued
until 1821, when the Dominicans constituted themselves into

16

a republic, as a part of the domain lately created by Bolivar.
The next year, Boyer, President of Haiti, having dis-
covered a clause in the constitution of Haiti declaring the
island to be one and indivisible, invaded the Dominican por-
tion of the island and held it until 1844, when the Dominican
section had gathered sufficient headway in unrest to reassert
its independence and establish the Dominican Republic.

Spain again secured a foothold in the island when, in 1861,
by means of a plebiscite which Dominicans assert was not
fairly conducted and by diplomatic negotiations, she re-estab-
lished her authority and maintained it during a period of four
years. The country was then again separated from Spain
and has ever since struggled with many difficulties, but as
a free and sovereign state.

In 1869 there was a strong sentiment in the Republic for
annexation to the United States. This culminated in that
year in a movement in the United States to annex the island.
President Grant himself being one of its strongest supporters
and making it the subject of a message to Congress in 1870.
He urged the immediate acquisition of the island on the ground
that the United States needed it to prevent the establishment
of a naval base there by some foreign power, and because it
commanded the sea approaches to the great trade channels
that, even in Grant's day, were expected to center at the en-
trance of the Panama Canal. He also favored complying
with the request for annexation on account of the intrinsic
richness of the island itself which "will give remunerative
wages to tens of thousands of laborers not now upon the island.
This labor will take advantage of every means of transporta-
tion to maintain commerce with the adjacent islands, and scek
the blessings of freedom and its sequence — each inhabitant
receiving the reward of his own labor." In his message to
Congress, President Grant said :

"The acquisition of Santo Domingo is desirable because of its
geographical position. It commands the entrance to the Caribbean
Sea and the Isthmus transit of commerce. It possesses the richest
soil, the most capacious harbors, most salubrious climate and the
most valuable products of the forests, mines and soil of all the West
Indies Islands. Its possession by us will in a few years build up a
coastwise commerce of immense magnitude, which will go far toward
restoring to us our lost merchant marine. It will give to us these
articles which we consume so largely and do not produce, thus equal-
izing our imports and exports. In case of foreign war it will give us
command of all the islands referred to and thus prevent an enemy
from ever possessing himself of rendezvous on our very coast. Al
present, our coast trade on the Atlantic is cut by the Bahamas and
Antilles. Twice we must, as it were, pass through fori
to get by sea from Georgia to the west coast of Florida.

17

These remarks and others show President Grant to have
been something of an expansionist, but in view of the fact
that the people of Santo Domingo had themselves requested
such annexation such an attitude seems entirely proper. Con-
gress, however, for various political reasons, did not think well
of the proposal and the proposition was defeated. It was not
until a few years ago that it finally became necessary for the
United States government to assume responsibility for the
turbulent little republic.

From the time of its discovery, Santo Domingo has been a
hotbed of turmoil and the center of strife. It is about the size
of Ireland, and has caused almost as much trouble. During
Santo Domingo's seventy years of national life, nineteen con-
stitutions have been promulgated, and there have been forty-
three presidents, but three of whom have completed terms of
office for which they had been elected. Two were killed,
twenty deposed, and the others resigned more or less willingly.

President Baez of Santo Domingo, who negotiated for an-
nexation with Grant, succeeded in accomplishing what had
been the dream of every administration since the birth of the
republic — the contracting of a foreign loan. The firm of
London bankers who agreed to float an issue of Dominican
bonds so mercilessly fleeced the republic, however, that the
nucleus of the enormous debt which finally led to American
intervention was here established. Baez was forced to capit-
ulate in 1873, and ten years of anarchy followed, during which
time these bonds were defaulted. Under Heureaux (a despotic
negro who was dictator from 1881 to 1889), several other is-
sues of bonds were brought out and allowed to default, and a
large foreign and internal debt piled up, which was increased
by ruinous loans to which the succeeding governments were
obliged to resort during the years of civil warfare until the
country was in a hopeless condition of bankruptcy.

At the beginning of 1904. every item of the debt had been
in default for months. Under pressure from foreign govern-
ments, the principal debt items due foreign citizens had been
recognized in international protocols, and the income from
each of the more important custom houses was specifically
pledged for their payment, but in no case was payment made.
Under a board of arbitration, the Santo Domingo Improve-
ment Company, an American corporation, had been awarded
the custom house at Puerto Plata, among other security, for
the payment of the amount due it and no payment being made
the American agent demanded compliance with the terms of
the award and on October 20, 1904, was placed in possession of

18

the custom house at Puerto Plata. The other foreign credil
principally French, Belgian and Italian, naturally began to
clamor for the payment of their credits and for the delivery
of the custom houses pledged to them. To have turned them
over would have meant absolute ruin, as the government
would have been entirely deprived of means of subsistence, and
in the face of the imminent likelihood of foreign intervention,
the Dominican government applied to the United States for
assistance. In February, 1905, the protocol of an agreement
with the United States was drawn up, providing for the col-
lection of Dominican customs revenues under the direction of
the United States, and the segregation of a specified portion
toward the ultimate payment of the debt. The treaty was
submitted to the United Slates Senate, but it adjourned with-
out taking final action upon it, and it was necessary to arrange
an interim modus vivendi (the creditors having again become
importunate) under which President Roosevelt appointed a
receiver to collect the customs for the benefit of the credil

Internal strife still prevailed, however. Morale-, who was
president at this time, was forced to resign and Caceres, who
succeeded him, was assassinated by a handful of malcontents
in 1911 and an endless succession of revolts followed.

Juan Jimenez, who had been president 1899-1902, was elec-
ted for the second time in 1914, and for a time it seemed a- ii
the country was at last entering upon an era of peace and
prosperity. Strong elements of disorganization were still
present, however, and in 1916 General Arras, a chronic revolu-
tionist, suddenly seized the military control of the- country and
issued a proclamation by which he practically deposed Jimenez
and assumed the executive power himself.

This endless succession of revolts had at length exhausted
the patience of the American Government. In the face o\
another gfeneral war with its attendant destruction of life and

* 1

property, harm to American and other foreign interests and
danger of international complications, the American Govern-
ment took decisive action. With the consent of President
Jimenez it landed marines from several ports until a total o\
1800 had been disembarked.

Jimenez, old and infirm, did not feel equal to the task oi
guiding his country through impending difficulties, and on May
6, 1916, resigned the presidency. The Congress in July elected
a temporary president, Francisco Henriquez Carvajal, with tin-
understanding that he would hold office for six months and
would not seek re-election at the general elections. The
United States Government would not extend recognition un-

less assured that Santo Domingo would enter upon a path
of order and progress and deemed its task uncompleted if it
should surrender the country to the same chaotic conditions.
It accordingly required as a condition of recognizing Hcn-
riquez that a new treaty between the countries be adopted,
similar to the one recently applied between the United States
and Haiti. Henriquez would not accede to the American de-
mands, whereupon the American authorities declined to pay
over any of the republic's finances to the government which
they did not recognize. Inasmuch as they controlled all the
revenues, the Henriquez government was left penniless.
Nevertheless, the American demands continued to be rejected.
As a result, no salaries were paid in any part of the republic,
the officials who continued in office, doing so in the hope of
being compensated later. Some services, such as the mail ser-
vice, were discontinued almost entirely, and the whole machin-
ery of the government was paralyzed. The tension lasted for
several months and as the term for which Henriquez had been
elected drew to a close and it became evident he did not intend
to retire, but to hold general elections in which he expected
to be the successful candidate, the American government de-
termined to break the deadlock, and on November 29, 1916,
Rear Admiral Knapp, of the United States Navy, issued a
proclamation declaring the Dominican Republic under the
military administration of the United States.

"Whereas a treaty was concluded between the United States
and the Republic of Santo Domingo on February 8, 1907,
article 3 of which reads:

III. Until the Dominican Republic has paid the whole
amount of the bonds of the debt, its public debt shall
not be increased, except by previous agreement be-
tween the Dominican Government and the United
States. A like agreement shall be necessary to modify
the import duties, it being an indispensable condition
for the modification of such duties that the Dominican
Executive demonstrate and that the President of the
United States recognize that, on the basis of exporta-
tions and importations to the like amount and the like
character during the two years preceding that in
which it is desired to make such modification, the
total net customs receipts would at such altered rates
of duties have been for each of such two years in
excess of the sum of $2,000,000 United States gold.

"Whereas the government of Santo Domingo has violated
article 3 on more than one occasion and

"Whereas the Government of Santo Domingo has from time
to time explained the violation by the necessity of incurring
expenses incident to the repression of revolution, and

20

"Whereas the United States Government, with great forbear-
ance and a friendly desire to enable Santo Domingo to main-
tain domestic tranquillity and to observe the terms of the
aforesaid treaty, has urged upon the Government of Santo
Domingo certain necessary measures which that Government
has been unwilling or unable to adopt, and

"Whereas the Government of the United States has deter-
mined that the time has come to take measures to assure the
observance of the aforesaid treaty by the Santo Domingan
Republic and to maintain the domestic tranquillity in the said
Republic of Santo Domingo necessary thereto,

"Now, Therefore, I, H. S. Knapp, Captain of United States
Navy, Commander of the cruiser force of the United States
Atlantic Fleet and the armed forces of the United States
stationed in various places within the territory of the Re-
public of Santo Domingo, acting under the authority and by
the direction of the Government of the United States, declare
and announce to all concerned that the Republic of Santo
Domingo is hereby placed in a state of military occupancy
by the forces under my command, is made subject to Military
Government and to the exercise of military law applicable
to such occupation.

"The military occupation is undertaken with no immediate or
ulterior object of destroying the sovereignty of the Republic
of Santo Domingo but on the contrary is designed to give aid
to that country in returning to a condition of internal order
that will enable it to observe the terms of the treaty aforesaid
and the obligations resting upon it as one of the family of
nations."

There follow five other paragraphs, stating- that the courts
will not be disturbed, revenues will be paid by the Receiver
to the military Government, to be held in trust for the Re-
public, calling on all to co-operate in restoring order, and
stating that the United States forces would act under military
law governing their conduct, all signed by Commander II. S.
Knapp, on the U. S. S. Olympia, flagship, November 29, 1916.

The military government so established took full po
sion of the country. The chiefs of the executive departments
not having appeared in their offices, their posts were dee
vacant and filled with officers of the American Navy. In the
country at large, there was little open opposition, ami such as
appeared was suppressed without difficulty. The inhabitants
quickly reconciled themselves to the situation, realizing that
it was to the best interests of the country. Dr. Henriquez
left for Cuba.

The military government thereupon proceeded to organize
the finances, to pay arrears of salaries, to subdue several
bandits who refused allegiance, and to confiscate all arms.

Order and security, greater than have prevailed in Santo

21

Domingo .since colonial days, were soon established. The
military government then devoted itsell to the construction
of public works, especially roads, the organization of a police-
force, and, in general, to the improvement of the country.

After the Washington government determined to partici-
pate in the European war, the American military governor on
April 17, 1917, connected Santo Domingo with the war by
canceling the exequaturs of the German consular representa-
tives in the Dominican Republic. There was no formal rup-
ture as no diplomatic representatives of either country were at
the time residing in the other.

The Constitution nominally in force in the Republic is the
one revised by the Legislature in 1896, which establishes that
the Government shall devolve upon three distinct powers,
each independent from the other in the discharge of their
specific duties. These three powers are: The Legislative
Power, or Congress, consisting of twenty-four Deputies or
Representatives, and twelve Senators elected by the people;
the Executive Power, under the President of the Republic and
seven Ministers, or Cabinet Members appointed by him ; and
the Judicial Power under the Supreme Court of Justice.

The national Congress, which meets at the capital, Santo
Domingo, is composed of the Senate and the Chamber of
Deputies, the former composed of twelve members, one from
each Province, and the latter of twenty-four members, or two
from each Province. Senators are elected by indirect vote
for a term of six years, but the Senate is renewed by thirds
every two years. Deputies are also elected by indirect vote
for four years, and the Chamber is renewed by halves every
two years. Suffrage is free to all male citizens over eighteen
years of age. Congress meets annually on February 27th, for
a period of ninety days, which may be extended for sixty days
more.

The President, assisted by a Cabinet of seven secretaries, is
the executive authority of the Republic. He is elected for a
term of six years by indirect vote. There is no Vice-President.
In case of the death or disability of the President, Congress
designates a person to take charge of the executive office. The
cabinet consists of the following offices: Secretary of the
Interior and Police ; Secretary of Foreign Affairs ; Secretary
of Treasury and Commerce ; Secretary of War and Marine ;
Secretary of Justice and Public Instruction ; Secretary of
Agriculture and Immigration; Secretary of Fomento (Promo-
tion) and Communications.

The chief judicial power resides in the Supreme Court of

22

Justice, which consists of a president and six justices ch
by Congress, and one Procurador Fiscal General appointed
by the executive, serving for a term of four years, and sitting
at Santo Domingo.

The territory of the Republic is divided into 12 judicial dis-
tricts, each having its own civil and criminal tribunal, and
court of first instance. These Districts are subdivided into
communes, each with a local justice. There are two appeal
courts, one at Santiago de los Caballeros, and the other at
Santo Domingo City.

For administrative purposes, the Republic is divided into
12 provinces, which are subdivided into communes. The
Provinces are administered by governors appointed by the
President, as are also the chief executive officers of the other
political divisions.

The area of the whole Island is 28,249 square miles, of
which the Dominican Republic occupies 18,045 square miles.
The greatest width of the Republic, from the Morro of Monte
Cristi to Cape Beata,.is about 170 miles; the greatest length,
from Cape Engaiio to the Haitian frontier, about 260 miles.
The coast line is about 940 miles in length.

In point of size, the Island, including both Republics, is
second in the West Indies only to Cuba, being about one-
fourth larger than the states of Vermont, Massachusetts.
Rhode Island and Connecticut together, about as targe as
Belgium, more than double the size of Denmark, and a trifle
smaller than Ireland.

For the Dominican Republic, it is impossible to get offi-
cial census figures, except for some of the cities. An unoffi-
cial estimate made in 1917 on the assumption that there are
1,000 inhabitants for every 2>7 births reported, calculated the
total population at 795,432. According to one writer (Schoen-
rich), who seems to be well informed, a reduction of 10', in
this figure would probably be more nearly correct. < m this
basis, the population per square mile would be about 40.

S3

CHAPTER III
COMMERCE— TRANSPORTATION— RESOURCES

Transportation throughout the interior is surprisingly in-
adequate, being carried on by means of limited railway lines,
an extensive system of trails, "navigable" for horses and oxen
in the drier seasons of the year, and a small but growing
mileage of paved roadways. With the exception of 250 miles
of privately-owned railways on sugar plantations, all of the
railroads are in a restricted area in the northern part of the
Republic.

There are two short railway lines, the Dominican Central
Railway of some forty miles, which connects Puerto Plata with
Santiago de los Caballeros, with a short extension to Moca ;
and the Samana and Santiago Railroad, which extends from
Sanchez to La Vega, with branches to San Francisco de
Macoris and Moca. This latter company completed a seven-
mile branch, in 1917, which connects Salcedo with Moca, and
thus connects the ports of Sanchez and Puerto Plata. The
surprising thing is that there is no railway connection between
the towns on the north and the southern part of the Island.

In several of the larger cities, carriages and light auto-
mobiles can be hired, but at very high figures, and these
furnish the principal means of communication within the city
and with other places so far as the roads will permit. Be-
tween Monte Cristi and La Vega, there is said to be a regular
automobile line, as also between Santo Domingo City and
nearby towns, but the writer was unable to discover them.

Since the occupation of the Republic by American forces,
it has been the policy of the military authorities to construct
good roads as fast as the work can be done with the limited
force at present on the island. This is slowly resulting in
the transforming of some old trails formerly feasible only to
horsemen into modern automobile turnpikes of permanent
construction. Such a policy, if persisted in, cannot fail to
have a good effect in stimulating interior trade and communica-
tion and making the now backward districts of the interior
accessible to the civilizing influences that the larger cities are
capable of bringing to bear.

24

On the older type of dirt roads there is communication
by oxcart during the dry reason, and in the arid regions such
travel is possible almost all the year. In general, however,
recourse must be had to the horse and the donkey. Many
travelers claim that on many occasions it is more economical
to buy horses than to hire them, for at the completion of the
trip there is no difficulty in disposing of them. Verrill
adds, "There is no lack of trails and there is no trouble in
finding a path of some kind leading to any town or village in
the republic, but he who essays to travel overland in Santo
Domingo must have an abundance of hardihood, be a good
horseman, and start forth with determination and an optimistic
view of all things. He will need them before he reaches his
journey's end." Another writer says, "A trip into the interior
requires a good horse, a strong constitution and a large supply
of patience."

As in most of the West Indies, hotel accommodations are
not precisely luxurious, but will be found fairly comfortable
and remarkably hospitable and free from thievery. In every
large town there are private families, both native and foreign,
who are glad to take boarders. In Santo Domingo City there
are several acceptable hotels, the "Frances" being the best. In
Puerto Plata, the "Europa," under Italian management, is
above the average of hotels in the tropics. The "Ties Anti-
lias," a Porto-Rican hotel, is also fair. In Santiago, the
"Garibaldi," also managed by Italians, is the best. In La
Vega there is little to choose between a Spanish place called
the "Ayuso" and the "Clemens," under French management
The rates are reasonable, averaging about four dollars a day.
American plan, in the best city hotels.

The question of food is, in most parts of the island, of far
greater importance than that of a place to sleep. In many
of the interior districts it is next to impossible for a foreigner
to eat the native food, as everything is cooked in oil. In the
coastal towns the food is usually fairly good, but in the interior
it is often best to employ your own cook and purchase your
foodstuffs. Food, clothing and all imported articles are high,
owing to the exorbitant import duties.

The construction of highways has received much at ten
tion from the government during the past year. The definite
program of the Department of Public Works to connect all
the principal cities of the country by means of well built roads
and to traverse the island from Santo Domingo on the south
shore to Monte Cristi on the north by a permanent and well

•:r.

established carretera, proceeds slowly, but surely. It will be
a great day when the road across the Island is completed.

The demand in important cities is increasing for electric
lighting plants and for water and sewage system, which are
few indeed up to the present. Many business concerns
generate their own electricity by an imported lighting system,
which is so compact that it can be moved around with com-
paratively little difficulty.

There are three banking institutions of major importance :
Porto Rican, i.e. American, British and Dominican. The In-
ternational Banking Corporation of New York established a
branch in Santo Domingo City in 1917, later branches in San
Pedro de Macoris, Santiago and Puerto Plata.

The Royal Bank of Canada has branches in Santo Domingo
City, San Pedro de Macoris, Sanchez, Puerto Plata and
Santiago, while the Banco Nacional, incorporated under Domi-
nican laws, also has branches in these cities.

All reported satisfactory progress during 1917. Their
principal functions consist in making advances against docu-
ments, making collections and selling exchange. Bank de-
posits do not serve as an index to the prosperity of the coun-
try. Neither the business public nor people generally have
been educated to carry their liquid wealth or to deposit in
banks. As a general rule, nearly all the merchant's capital
is converted into and maintained in his stocks, and business
is done almost entirely on a system of long-time credit.

The American gold dollar is the standard of value. United
States gold and silver coins and paper currency are in circula-
tion at face value, and constitute the principal medium of ex-
change. In addition, a limited amount of Dominican coinage
is in circulation, the peso, and some fractional currency, which
passes current at rate of 5 to 1.

According to the most recent figures available there are 87
post-offices in the country; also 60 telephone offices, and 690
telephones distributed through the larger cities. 1,175 miles
of telephone wires have thus far been laid. These telephone
offices also serve as telegraph stations. The telegraph is in
operation between Santo Domingo, Puerto Plata, and Santiago,
from Santiago to Monte Cristi, and along the railway from
Sanchez to La Vega, with a total mileage of 352. Submarine
cables belonging to the same company connect in the north
Puerto Plata with New York and Porto Rico, and in the
South Santo Domingo with Porto Rico and Curagao.

Two small wireless stations are in operation at Santo

26

Domingo and La Romana with a communicating radius to
Porto Rico, and another small apparatus at San Pedro dc
Macoris which is merely used for local purposes.

CONSULAR REPORT OF TRADE CONDITIONS

U. S. Consul Clement S. Edwards reports that the commercial and
industrial activities of the Dominican Repuhlic for the year 1917, not-
withstanding the abnormal conditions arising from the world war,
showed not only a marked increase over the previous year, but also
the continued and growing prosperity of the country.

The opening up of several new sugar estates and the erection of
mills and other necessary buildings, largely increased the opportunity
for employment, while the demand for cement, structural steel, and
other building material added greatly to the volume of imports.

Although the production and movement of sugar fell off about
15 per cent during the season, commercial conditions in the south or
sugar district are fair. The conditions in the tobacco district in the
neighborhood of Santiago are prosperous. The ruling prices for
tobacco are high, and consequently, there has been an increase in
the acreage planted for 1918. Because of discrimination in regard
to freight space, cacao dropped to five cents a pound, while the price
in New York was from twelve to thirteen cents a pound. Cacao is
exported annually to the value of approximately $5,000,000, but as
the farmer is not getting the cost of production, general conditions
in the large cacao district are not good.

The improvement of the harbor of Puerto Plata, which was dredged
to a depth of 22 feet; the construction of a re-enforced concrete wharf,
which extends into the harbor for 1,100 feet and has a re-enforced
concrete deck 96 feet 4 inches wide by 412 feet in length, and work
upon the new two-story custom house, also of re-enforced concrete
and located on the wharf, will transform this northern harbor into
one of the best equipped ports in the West Indies.

Progress made upon the handsome custom house in Santo Domingo
(which has since been completed), dredging of the harbor at San
Pedro de Macoris, the building of many highway bridges, the con-
struction of miles of fine oarretertu, the improvement and restoration
of some of the public buildings, and the completion of plans for ex-
tensive work in contemplation signalized the labors of the depart-
ment during the year.

Improvement in Agricultural Methods

The Departamento de Fomento y Agricultura directed special at-
tention to the general improvement of agricultural conditions in the

Republic. A capable and efficient supervisor of agricuture was em
ployed, and, under sanction of a decree issued by the military .
eminent, accompanied by the necessary appropriation of funds, an
agricultural experimental station was established about 1<> miles west
of the city of Santo Domingo on the shores of the Caribbean and
along the beautiful earretera which leads from the capital city in that
direction. Land has been cleared, some of the mosl necessary build-
ings have been erected, crops of various kinds have been planted, and
a systematic and scientific course has been established for the im-
provement of agricultural methods. The intelligent work done dur-

27

ins the few months which have elapsed since the establishment of
this station has transformed the tract upon which it is located into
a beautiful and prosperous farm that strikingly shows the agricul-
tural possibilities of this fertile island. Already substations have been
established, and competent men have been put in charge, whose duty
it is to advise and direct the agricultural interests of the people.

Undeveloped Resources

Despite its early fame for great fertility and rich mineral re-
sources, this country, unlike its neighboring islands to the east and
west, has remained largely undeveloped. Nevertheless, great changes
have taken place in the last few years, and where energy backed by
capital has been intelligently applied to the development of the natural
resources, a rich profit has been the reward. No doubt remains in
regard to the fertility and the agricultural possibilities which con-
stitute the country's chief and unfailing source of wealth.

There was but little activity in mining shown during 1917. With
the exception of some work on a copper mine near San Cristobal,
and the shipment of a small quantity of ore, nothing further was
done, and active work on the mine was temporarily abandoned dur-
ing the year. However, recent comprehensive investigations con-
ducted by efficient engineers have established the existence of rich
mineral deposits. Renewed interest has been taken in the production
of oil, and near the close of the year, active operations were in prog-
ress near Azua on the southern coast.

The conservation of the great forest resources of the Republic
is due to their inaccessibility, on account of the lack of roads. The
wealth of rare hardwoods and rich dyewoods is well known, and fre-
quent reports have been published calling attention to the mahogany,
ebony, lignum-vitae, satinwood, rosewood, walnut, and other valuable
woods for which the region is noted. Extensive areas of pine are
also to be found, and logwood and fustic enter into the country's ex-
ports of dyewoods.

The Dominican Republic is not a manufacturing country. To a
very large extent it depends upon its imports to supply its wants.
There are, however, numerous small factories whose products find a
ready local market. These factories furnish employment to a con-
siderable number of men. Cigars, cigarettes, rum, matches, soap,
hats, boots and shoes, boxes, and saddles and harness are the most
important products.

Sugar and Cacao Leading Crops

The leading industry of the country is the cultivation of sugar
cane and the production of raw sugar. The southern part of the
island is the region principally devoted to this industry, and there
all the large sugar estates are located. Sugar to the value of $13,-
386,463 was exported during 1917. The quantity showed an increase
of 8,856,419 kilos over the preceding year.

Five sugar mills, representing an investment of $4,000,000, were
in process of construction during 1917. Improvements and new
machinery installed in existing sugar estates represented an outlay
of $1,800,000. Two of the new estates are located at Puerto Plata
and one each at La Romana, San Pedro de Macon's, and Boca Chica.

After sugar, the most important crop is cacao, which is raised

28

chiefly in the northern Provinces. The product is known in the
markets of the world as Sanchez, taking its name from the port
through which it is chiefly exported. The value of cacao exj
during 1917 reached $4,856,275, more than $1,000,000 less than in 1916,
although the quantity exceeded by 2,661,702 kilos the exports of
The loss was due to a heavy drop in prices.

Other leading products are honey, coffee, and tobacco, the 1917
exports of the last named reaching the value of $1,658,521.

Renewed interest in the raising of cattle became apparent during
the year, owing to the tranquil conditions prevailing throughout the
country. There are few large ranches in the Republic, but nearly all
the farmers give some attention to cattle raising. Ilolsteins and
Porto Ricans are the principal breeds.

Steady Progress Made in Foreign Trade

The consistent and steady progress made by the Dominican Re-
public in its foreign trade during the past dozen years, with a very
considerable and constant trade balance in its favor, is clearly seen
from the following table, which sets forth the value of the imports
and exports, together with the aggregate trade and trade balance of
each year from 1905 to 1917, inclusive:

Imports Exports Total Balance

1905 $2,736,828 $6,896,098 $9,632,926 $4,159,270

1910 6,257,691 10,849,623 17,107,314 4,591,932

1915 9,118,514 15,209.061 24,327.575 6,090,547

1916 11,664,430 21,527,873 33,192,303 {,443

1917 17,581,844 22,444,580 40,026,394 4,8' ■-

The trade of the Republic for 1917 aggregated $40,026,394, an in-
crease of $6,834,091 or 20.5 per cent over the previous year, SIS.'
or 64.53 per cent over the year 1915, and $25,862,132 or 182.58 per cent
in excess of the year 1908.

In 1917, the total value of the imports was $17,581,814. The share
of the United States and Porto Rico in this trade was $16,138,18!
nearly 92 per cent of the whole. The imports through the prii
ports of the Republic in the order of their importance durn g 1917
were as follows: Santo Domingo, $4,907,453; San

$4,462,470; Puerto Plata, $3,757,441; Sanchez, $1,800,050; and La
Romana, $1,378,850.

Transportation Facilities

Transportation between the United States and the Dominican Re-
public is supplied by the Clyde Steamship Co.. which 1 • '.lin-
ers plying regularly between New York and the principal poii
this country, carrying passengers and freight and making an average
of one complete voyage each month. In addition, this company has
three freight steamers plying between the same ports. During the
sugar seasons additional steamers are generally chartered to take
care of the heavy exports.

The Bull Insular Steamship Co. has « r and freight

steamer making regular weekly voyages between San Juan, P. R.
and Dominican ports. One freight and pas -earner of the

Compahia Naviera de Cuba, plying between Cuban and Porto
ports and making the voyage one each three we

20

Pedro de Macon's and Santo Domingo on both the outward and
the return voyages. The Santo Domingo of the Compafiia Xaviera
Antillana, which carries both passengers and freight, makes a v
weekly between San Juan, P. R., and Santo Domingo and San Pedro
de Macon's. The Compagnie General Transatlantique until recently
had a steamer making regular voyages between Martinique and the
Dominican Republic and stopping at Porto Rico.

Although there are no steamship connections with Gulf ports, there
are, in addition to the lines mentioned above, several schooners mak-
ing irregular voyages to Dominican ports, and three steamers of an
average tonnage of 1,000 tons each, operated by the La Romana
Sugar Estate and engaged in carrying cane from La Romana to
Guanica, P. R.

While foreign vessels may engage in coastwise trade under certain
restrictions, the trade is chiefly taken care of by a considerable fleet
of small schooners and sailing vessels. A small Dominican steamer
plying between southern ports carries passengers and freight.

This may sound as though steamship transportation was fairly
good. If so, one's mind should be disabused of the idea immediately.
The outstanding need for economic development is transportation,
both within the Island as well as with the outside world. It seems a
pity to have to go to New York to get to Cuba, for example, but that
is usually much the quickest route. Nothing is more needed than a
few new steamship lines.

Financial Conditions Satisfactory During 1917

The financial condition of the Dominican Republic at the close of
1917 was excellent. According to the report of the general receiver
of Dominican customs, the Republic has never had such a pros-
perous year, the total amount derived from customs revenue being
$5,329,574, thus surpassing by far all previous records and register-
ing an increase of $1,294,217, or 32.07 per cent, above the year 1916.

The share of the year's receipts paid over to the Dominican Gov-
ernment in accordance with the convention was $2,455,784, an average
of $204,649 per month. In addition, the Dominican Government re-
ceived from internal revenue the sum of $1,226,447. These revenues
are now collected under the direct charge of a special deputy general
receiver, who is also charged with the disbursement of the Govern-
ment budget.

The country is large, considering the population, and is rich, fer-
tile, and undeveloped. Railroads are to be built and equipped; the
timber resources are to be tapped; saw mills are to be erected: and
modern methods of agriculture are to be introduced, for which all
kinds of modern agricultural machines will be needed. The demand
is constantly increasing in the important cities for modern electric
lighting plants and for water and sewage systems. It is evident
that as the Republic is entirely dependent upon its import trade to
supply its needs, a market exists here for every class of commercial
commodity.

In the Dominican Republic, local conditions have a decided
influence on the climate, causing a remarkable variation in
the time of the two seasons common to the tropics. In the
south, the west and the interior, the winter, or rainy season,

30

generally takes place from April to November, the other

months being the dry, or summer months, while in th<
section, the rainy season is from May to December.

The climate of Santo Domingo is characterized by heat
and humidity. It is, however, tempered and rendered' bear-
able by cooling breezes which are seldom absent. In May and
June, the rains are apt not only to be heavy, but are accom-
panied by severe thunder and electrical displays.

Being a mountainous island, the readily accessible areas
of higher elevation afford a variety of temperature conditions
at any time of the year that is unusual in so small a country.
This makes it possible for those on whom a continuously hot
climate is especially severe, to obtain temporary relief by
brief sojourns in higher and cooler altitudes, without the
necessity of long journeys.

The Republic, as seen from the sea, presents a rugged ap-
pearance because of its mountainous condition. Topographic-
ally, the country consists of extensive plains and broad, fertile
valleys, surrounded by mountains of various heights, well
irrigated by abundant streams and rivers. The perennial
verdue of the mountains and luxuriant vegetation of the val-
leys and plains show the fertility of the soil, which only
awaits the hand of man to yield fabulous riches.

There are five mountain chains stretching throughout the
entire length of the island in a general direction, from east
to west, dividing the country into valleys and plains. The
largest of the mountain chains is called the Cordillera Central,
traversing the country from east to west, gradually rising
to an altitude of about 9,420 feet above the sea level. This
Central range starts at about six miles from the eastern ex-
tremity of the island, and extends some 218 miles to the wot,
the highest point being Loma Tina. These ranges, extending
in all directions, protect the Island from hurricanes, and their
drainage affords constant water supply.

Like Cuba and unlike Porto Rico, the coastline is well
indented with harbors and bays. The Samana Bay is one of
the most imposing in the world. It is an inland sea whose
waters, ever smooth, offer commodious shelter to all the
navies of the world. It measures about forty miles from east
to west, and fourteen from north to south. Man/anillo Bay,
at the northern extremity of the Republic, is one of the best
in the island, and has many excellent ports and anchors
Pozas being considered the best of all, both on account of

31

its depth, allowing vessels of the heaviest draft to anchor,
and because of its tranquil waters.

To the scarcity of population is due the fact that many of
these bays and ports have no towns of any importance and
no traffic facilities, although a certain trade in agricultural
products is carried on through them.

Santo Domingo formerly yielded considerable gold and silver.
Shortly after the time of Columbus, as much as $30,000,000
worth of gold and silver was exported from the Island in a
single year, according to Spanish writers. The valuable re-
port of William P. Blake to Congress, in 1871, on the Miner-
alogy of the Island states that there is a very considerable
gold-bearing country in the interior.

Copper is also found in commercial quantity, several lodes
being worked at the present time. Inmense deposits of iron
are known to exist, and coal and petroleum are both found
in considerable quantities. Salt, alum, gypsum, platinum,
mercury, and other minerals exist, and are in part being ex-
ploited.

From an agricultural point of view, the country may be
divided into three districts or regions. The first may be call-
ed the tropical zone, which contains the fertile fields of the
low lands ; the second zone contains the plains of the stock-
raising belt, where abundant pasture of different kinds grows
freely, and the third, or sub-tropical belt, consisting of high,
cool lands, where wheat and other cereals of the temperature
zone may profitably be cultivated.

The lands within the tropical belt have the richest soil,
measuring from four to six feet in depth, and are devoted to
the cultivation of cacao, as the long, central root of this tree
needs a rich, deep soil. Part of the tropical belt has about one
foot of vegetable soil, and is particularly adapted to the cultiva-
tion of sugar cane, bananas, tobacco, plantains, rice, corn,
beans, and all kinds of pulse and vegetables. Notwithstanding
this, potatoes, beans, onions, and other vegetables, as well as
cereals, are at present imported from abroad, and sold at ex-
orbitant prices in the local markets.

Sub-tropical agricutural lands begin at an altitude of 1,500
feet above the sea level. Coffee, wheat, oats, rye, apples, pears,
strawberries, and other fruits of sub-tropical countries, grow
in this belt.

The sub-tropical lands occupy at least one-tenth of the
whole territory of the Republic. The Constanza Valley is

32

considered the best of the Dominican tablelands. It is claimed
that wheat enough to supply the home need, and to export
can be raised in this valley.

It has been estimated that there exist at least seventy-
five varieties of cereals, legumes, and vegetables; fifty sp<
of fruits of all kinds; twelve species of palms, fifty specif
industrial plants, and about fifteen different kinds of pasture
subdivided into an endless variety of species.

Sugar is by far the leading agricultural product of the
Dominican Republic. The extent and fertility of the land-
suitable for sugar cane cultivation have no rival in any of
the Antilles.

Next to sugar cane, the principal agricultural products of
the country are bananas and plantains, the latter being about
sixty times more alimentary than wheat, according to Hum-
boldt. Dominican coffee is also excellent; sugar cane thrives
even where the soil is scarcely nine inches thick; the yucca,
two varieties of which are now exported to Europe for the
starch; the cocoanut, also exported, whether green or dried.
in which latter state it is called copra; corn which yields
from three to four crops a year, and jicama, a tuber contain-
ing a larger percentage of starch than any other plant. Among
the fruits, besides the bananas and plantains, are excellent
oranges and pineapples, which are exported without special
precautions. Other delicious tropical fruits, such as mangoes,
alligator pears, sapodilla, and many others, cannot be export
ed unless carried in special refrigerators.

33

CHAPTER IV
THE PEOPLE AND THEIR SOCIAL PROBLEMS

Racially the people of the Dominican Republic are of
Spanish descent, some pure white, others mixed with negro
blood, others with an admixture of Indian, and still others
carrying the racial inheritance of all three of these races.
While the pure black or nearly black negro is far less in
evidence than in Haiti, yet numerically there are many negroes
in the republic. Haiti retains its uniform blackness to a re-
markable extent, but in the Dominican Republic the racial
mixture is very complete, and your typical citizen may ex-
hibit the predominant characteristics of either the white,
the black or the red men.

Along the coast and on the plantations there are many
negroes from Turks Island, the Bahamas, Jamaica and the
other West Indies; while at Monte Cristi and in other local-
ities there are many native Dominican and Haitian blacks.
In most places the distinctly colored outnumber the more-
or-less white.

Socially, commercially and politically there seems to be
little color line drawn, for men and women of white and color-
ed skins are seen mingling and conversing freely. Whites
and colored intermarry and hold office on an equality. Some
Dominicans are highly educated in the universities of America
and Europe. Among them are artists, poets, musicians, his-
torians, engineers, diplomats, soldiers, clergymen, sculptors
and architects that would be a credit to any country.

The language of Santo Domingo is Spanish — comparatively
pure. Slight differences of pronunciation are noticeable in
different parts of the republic and they do not lisp the "c" as
do the Castilians, but the difference between the Dominican's
Spanish and that of Spain may be compared to the difference
between English spoken in the United States and in England.
Besides Spanish, the English and French languages are
heard to a limited extent. On the Samana peninsula as much
English as Spanish is spoken, and in the coast towns San
Pedro de Macoris, Puerto Plata, Monte Cristi and Santo
Domingo, it is often heard, from the lips of the negroes from
the British islands.

34

To understand Santo Domingo, it must be constantly kept
in mind that, different from Haiti, it is Spanish-American in
historical inheritance, religion, problems, ideals and culture.
The efforts of Haiti to make it a black man's land were always
resented, and the country's kinship with other Latin-Amer-
ican lands and with Spain has been emphasized by its leader-.

The Spanish consciousness is strong in spite of the omni-
present admixture of African blood. The very black mayor
of an inland town said to an American naval officer in the
course of a conversation: "Your argument is all right for
Anglo Saxons, but we Latins are different."

The politeness so characteristic of the Latin-American is
evident on every side. The gracious hospitality that offers
the home with all its contents to the guest with the assurance
that "this is your house" is still prevalent in Santo Domingo.
The idealism of the race, caricatured in the immortal Don
Quixote, that often drives the Hispano-American to extremes
of individualistic effort, to intolerance of a foe and worship
of a friend, also leads the Dominican to take himself and his
opinions very seriously, especially when they assume a guise
that may be identified with "patriotism" or with "liberty."
The greatest drawback to all this from the standpoint of
developing the civic life is the frequent unwillingness to sub
ordinate self for the general good, that lack of "team play"
which is so serious a defect among these really fine and gen
erally well-meaning people.

The Dominicans are a sturdy race. All of their president
in recent years have been men of commanding physique. That
the common people have not done more to better their own
condition and to develop their land is due to the manana
spirit of the tropics. Why work more than is necessary to
sustain life in so fertile and benign a land?

The women of the Island are usually graceful in carriage
and often beautiful, especially in their girlhood. The heat of
the climate makes the use of powder necessary, and frequently
the darker the hue of the feminine skin the more powder, The
result is the gray or ashen hue of many ncgresscs which
strikes the traveller as a bit ludicrous.

The Dominican, especially of the cities, is by nature ;
frank and hospitable. He is cosmopolitan t<> a remarkable
degree, associating without embarrassment with people of all
races, nationalities and religion. There is little prejudice
against the foreigner as such. This cosmopolitan cast to tin-
urban population has been still further emphasized by a ver\
considerable influx of Turks and Syrians, especially in Santo

35

Domingo City, where the dry goods trade is almost exclusively
in their hands. This is no reflection on the mercantile ability
of the native, however, because the Syrian especially has shown
in many lands that he is a competitor not to be despised in
many lines of merchandising. He is a keen buyer, a frugal
and careful man in his household, and has an appreciation of
the commercial value of good-will which is distinctly lack-
ing among most oriental merchants.

Even in the interior of the country, where life is reduced
to its simplest terms, the traveler can hardly fail to note the
hospitality exhibited toward the stranger. Most of these little
interior villages are totally lacking in accommodations for the
traveler, but the inhabitants will readily and freely give up
their own homes to make the stranger comfortable, and will
share their scanty meals and consider it an honor. "Time
and time again," says Verrill, "has the author arrived at some
tiny village after nightfall only to have the swarthy, brigand-
ish-looking natives vie with one another to care for the horses,
furnish food and drink, and move out of their own simple huts
to provide sleeping quarters for the visitor."

The people of Santo Domingo are fond of music and
dancing, are gay, vivacious and frivolous. Bull fights are
not permitted, but cock fighting is almost universal and might
very properly be called the "national sport."

In social life the clubs are a prominent feature. A town
must be unimportant indeed if it has not at least one club
where the men meet, read the papers and play billiards. The
first attention shown a visiting stranger is to take him to the
local club and enroll him as a temporary member, this being
equivalent to a general local introduction.

Considering the great number of these clubs there is sur-
prisingly little drinking. Club etiquette does not seem to
demand the drink as a necessary factor in agreeable human
intercourse, as it does in many countries. Such drinks as are
served are confined to the restaurants and the homes of the
people, where a drink is frequently offered to callers. The
saloon, as in most South-American countries, is an American
innovation, such saloons as there are being operated entirely
by Americans.

The native is very fond of coffee and drinks a great deal
of it. Little cafeterias or coffee-shops abound, and take the
place of the saloon in the social intercourse of the men.

In spite of a considerable consumption of light wines in
the Republic, there is very little drunkenness. One American
observer stated that he had not seen over three intoxicated
persons in six vears.

36

The principal vice of the people is gaming, which is uni-
versal in one form or another. Lotteries are plentiful ; most
of them being devoted to the support of some charity. Two
of the four or five hospitals in the country derive their prin-
cipal income from the proceeds of lotteries conducted for their
benefit.

Sexual standards are about the same as those prevailing
in most South-American countries, the women of the upper
class being in general virtuous and the men inclined to
amorous intrigue. Statistics relating to marriages and births
show that about 60 per cent of the children are illegitimate.
These figures, however, are largely accounted for by the large
number of "consentual unions" among the poorer classes, where
men and women, although not united by marriage, live to-
gether publicly as man and wife, rear a family and are as faith-
ful to each other as if legitimately married. The consider-
able number of these unions is due to the high cost of the
marriage ceremony and also to the fact that such unions have
become so common that the parties see nothing wrong in
them.

A respectable colored man in a responsible position on
a plantation, the head of a large family but not married to
the woman with whom he had lived over twenty years and to
whom he seemed devoted, was urged by an American friend
to marry her, but the answer was a determined negative. "If
I marry her she will know I have to support her ami she
may get careless and lazy. Knowing that I can leave her when
I like, she will continue to behave herself." Similar persua-
sion applied to the "wife" elicited an almost identical reply.
The common law "wife" feared that her husband might make
love to other women were she legally bound to him, a proce-
dure that he would not dare attempt now for fear she might
leave him!

Women have little part in industry in the republic, the
idea of women in business being a very distasteful one to the
Latin-American. The movement toward commercial lite has
secured at least a start, however, in all the Latin countries,
Santo Domingo being no exception in this regard. The
women are really the hope of the country, as tiny are better
workers and have better habits than the men.

Occasionally a woman of the upper classes defies tradi-
tion to the extent of entering the commercial world. Hit
position may be so secure socially as to preclude any a<!
expression of opinion. This happened notably in the
of a most estimable young woman who was recently nominated

37

60

for a position in the office of the Superintendent of Sanitation.
One newspaper gave utterance as follows : "As beautiful as
she is virtuous, as intelligent as she is beautiful, the Sefiorita
Mendoza, an ornament and adornment of our aristocracy,
typically represents the present evolution of the Dominican
woman, who, within her traditional refinement and simplicity
seeks new and larger orientations."

This may be calculated to bring a smile to North Amer-
icans, but it represents very accurately to what lengths the
Dominican has to go in order to justify the entrance of women
into business. The average girl has nothing with which to
occupy her time. She is very closely chaperoned, is not allow-
ed out alone, and can only sit in her parents' home and rock
to and fro as she sees her brothers go out at night in pursuit
of social enjoyment.

Health conditions are improving steadily, as the United
States officials are introducing modern sanitary methods. The
Chief Sanitary Officer has taken especial interest in surveying
the need for hospitals. Some paragraphs from his most recent
reports are given herewith :

"Although there have been numerous local outbreaks of com-
municable disease in the country during the past year, especially
measles and typhoid fever, and other transmissable diseases are omni-
present, as hookworm in the Cibao region and yaws in Barahona, no
really severe epidemic occurred in this country until the worldwide
influenza epidemic commenced here in November, 1918, the disease
having entered the country from Haiti. An attempt was made to
keep it out by quarantine measures, but these were unsuccessful, so
far as the land quarantine against Haiti was concerned. No cases
entered the country by water. During November, there were 827 cases
reported from Azua and Barahona with 20 deaths. During December,
18,936 cases, with 331 deaths, were reported from the provinces of
Azua, Barahona, Monte Cristi, Puerto Plata, Santiago and La Vega,
while in January, 1919, there were 32,257 cases, with 448 deaths in
these provinces. The proportion of deaths to reported cases was 1.53
per cent.

"Existing facilities for the care of the sick in this country are in
very poor shape. There are at present only seven hospitals in the
country, and one of these is owned and operated by the La Eomana
Sugar Company for its employees. The others are the Dominican
Military Hospital and the Beneficencia Hospital in Santo Domingo
City. The former is an ancient building inherited from the former
Dominican Government. It is badly in need of repairs, and should
be rebuilt or, preferably, a new hospital built. Its accommodations
are poor, and it is used mainly for the care of prisoners, the indigent
poor and prostitutes, the last by compulsion.

"The Beneficencia Hospital is a very small organization adminis-
tered by the Junta de Caridad, a local charitable organization. It is
well run with such funds as are available, but neither of these hos-
pitals is at all adequate.

38

"San Pedro de Macon's has one small frame hospital for men only,
run by a charitable organization. Like the Beneficencia Hospital,
it is fairly well run with such funds as are available, but is totally
inadequate for the needs. This city has about 25,000 inhabitants, and
is rapidly growing, but has absolutely no place where a sick woman
may obtain hospital treatment or where a poor woman may go for
any medical treatment."

In a report to the American Red Cross, the Chief Sanitary
Officer recommends for the supplying of the most outstand-
ing needs of the Island, the erection of seven new hospitals and
the improvement of the buildings and equipment of those now
in existence. He says, in closing his report :

"It is the opinion of this office that these hospitals should, at
least for a time, be administered by an American physician, prefer-
ably a Spanish-speaking one, and a Porto Rico or Cuban graduate
head nurse, none being available in this country. In this way, a
corps of trained nurses could be developed, something in which the
country is totally lacking at present, and something which is very
badly needed.

"These hospitals are very badly needed by this country and, in-
asmuch as the time is far distant before either the Dominican national
or local governments can hope to be financially able to build the
same, any assistance which the Red Cross can furnish will be im-
mensely appreciated by the people, and bring a large return.

"To recapitulate, the new hospitals needed, with estimated cost
of construction, given in order of what is believed by this office to
be the relative necessity, is as follows:

Seybo $35,000.00

Santo Domingo 60.000.00

S. P. Macoris 45.000.00

Sanchez 20.000.00

San Juan 20.000.00

Monte Cristi 20.000.00

Barahona 15.000.00

Total $215.0D(i. on

"To complete the necessary hospitalization of the country, the
existing hospitals at Puerto Plata, Santiago and La Vega should be
completely equipped, and some necessary additional construction
work done, the construction work being estimated at about $15,000.00.
It is very doubtful whether any of these hospitals would be self-sup-
porting, certainly not for a long time."

CHAPTER V
DOMINICAN AUTHORS AND LITERATURE

IF Santo Domingo is noted for its backwardness in most
respects, it is equally noted wherever the Spanish language

is spoken for excellency of literary production. One of the
first impulses received for its creation came from Juan Pablo
Duarte, who was the leader of the revolution against the
dominance of Haiti. lie was educated in Spain and was one
of the great men of Santo Domingo.

The University of Santo Domingo was founded in 1538
and maintained a colony with a higher degree of culture than
that which existed in other parts of the Antilles. Students
came to Santo Domingo from various other colonies. When
the Haitians overran Santo Domingo the intellectuals were
scattered abroad, especially through Porto Rico, Cuba and
Venezuela.

The great Cuban poet Heredia was the child of Dominican
parents, as were also Domingo Delmonte, and other famous
Cuban men of letters. The intellectual leader of the Dominican
Republic, established in 1844, was Felix Maria Delmonte. He
wrote the national hymn, which echoes the bitter struggle
against Haiti. The period of peace following the establish-
ment of a republic was not after all peaceable enough for the
encouragement of literature. The Spaniards, in re-establish-
ing their rule over Santo Domingo in 1860, shot Felix Mota,
an author, among others. The Dominican Republic was re-
established in 1866. but the restoration of order was delayed
for some time.

Among the exiles that returned after the Spanish exit was
Javier Angelo Guridi, a former colonel in the patriot army,
During his exile in Venezuela, he engaged in journalism, and
was inspired by Indian life there. He was the first Dominican
poet whose verses were collected in a volume. His best poems
and prose tales, called "Ensavos Poeticos," were published in
1843.

One of the greatest poets of Santo Domingo was a woman,
Dona Salome L'rcna. Her first efforts were in praise of the
ideals of the peace and progress. In 1878, a society known

40

as "Los Amigos del Pais," was founded, to promote the inter-
ests of Santo Domingo, and the poetess received from this so-
ciety a medal and a published edition of her poems. In 1880 she
married Francisco Enriquez y Carvajal, a kinsman of the
recent President Enriquez of Santo Domingo. Doiia Salome
later on came under the influence of Hostos and aided in his
educational movement by the founding of the first school
for young ladies in Santo Domingo. She directed this school
for many years during which time her numerous poems all
echoed the home life which found strong vibration in the heart
of this wife and mother. One of her best known volumes of
poems, printed in 1878, was the Indian legend, Anacnona.

To such a legend another one of the famous poets owes
his fame. Jose Joaquin Perez, who lived from 1845 to 1900, is
principally known for his famous poem "Quisqueyana," which
was written in 1874, following his exile in Venezuela. He
also wrote in that same year, "Vuelta al Hogar," which gives
his exultation on returning to his native land. Another vol-
ume of poems referring to early national life, and which serves
to give Perez a great name outside of his own land, is called
"Fantasias Indigenas." These perpetuated the memory of the
aborigines of Santo Domingo. Perez showed his deep interest
in the advancement of Santo Domingo by writing a beautiful
little poem called "Himno al Progreso del Pais." He showed
his sympathy for the Cubans during their rebellion in 1895 by
writing a series of poems called "Americanas."

The novel "Enriquillo" made famous the name of Manuel
de Jesus Galvan. This is one of the best historical novels that
was ever written in Spanish America. It is remarkable both
for style and subject matter. It describes the colonial period
in Santo Domingo during the administration of Diego Colum-
bus, the son of the discoverer. The arrival of Diego Columbus
with his bride, Maria de Toledo, the work of Bartolome de las
Casas who is famous for championing the rights of the Indians,
the grievances and last rebellion of the young Indian chief,
Enriquillo, all make this one of the most interesting pieces of
historical fiction written in Latin America.

The President of the Republic, at the time that the United
States took over the government in 1916, was one of the out-
standing literary men of Santo Domingo, Fedcrico Enriquez >i
Carvajal. He distinguished himself as a journalist while yet
a young man. He co-operated with Hostos in the development
of the normal school in Santo Domingo City. He also render-
ed great help to the Cuban patriots. When Maximo Gomez
and other Cuban leaders found refuge in ^anto Domingo, Car-

41

vajal was extremely kind to them. Jose Marti has written a
glowing description of his visit to Santo Domingo in 1893 and
told of the magnificent welcome that he received from Enriquez
and other Dominicans. From Santo Domingo, Marti and
Gomez set out to raise the cry for the liberty of Cuba, that
finally resulted in success in 1898.

Federko Garcia Godoy is one of the greatest living Domi-
nican authors. A visit to his simple home in La Vega was
greatly appreciated by the writer. Godoy is known as a
literary critic wherever the Spanish language is spoken. His
historical novels, "Rufinito" and "Alma Dominicana" give pic-
tures of the Dominican struggle for independence. He is a
strong nationalist, and has done much for the development of
his people.

"La Literatura Americana de Nuestros Dias" is a splendid
study of some of the best Spanish authors.

Among the present writers on sociological and political
topics are Amerigo Lugo and Jose B. Lopez. Various articles
of Sr. Lugo are collected in a book called "A Punto Largo."
The most interesting essay in the collection is one concerning
intervention, which applies particularly to intervention in
Cuba. Sr. Lugo, during his residence in France and the
United States and England, has collected material for a his-
tory of his own country which he hopes soon to publish. A
critical tract on Dominican conditions is that by Lopez called
"La Paz en la Republica Dominicana."

Probably the greatest single influence in the intellectual
life of Santo Domingo was Eugenio Maria de Hostos, a
Porto-Rican who spent some twenty years in Santo Domingo,
occupying himself with the development of education in that
country. Here is one of those Latin geniuses that seem to be
capable of doing any amount of intellectual work in any
number of different spheres. He wrote one of the best treatises
on constitutional law that has ever been published. An edition
in English is scheduled for the near future. His educational
principles which were given through his years of teaching in
the normal school in Santo Domingo, show some of the most
modern pedagogical theories. A volume called "Meditando"
shows the remarkable intellectual grasp of the man. First
there is a long essay on Hamlet, a splendid critical study of
Shakespeare's play ; then there follow short essays on several
of the great men of South America ; a criticism of various
authors in Santo Domingo ; a treatise on the laws of teaching,
on political themes and a literary criticism. This remarkable

42

man was educated in Spain, traveled all through Latin Amer-
ica, came to be a recognized authority in literature and politics
in Argentina, Chile, Santo Domingo, Cuba and Porto Rico, in
all of which countries he lived for a more or less brief period
of time. Before Europe had opened scientific careers to women,
Hostos had persuaded the Chilean government to open its
courses in medicine and law to women. He was also the first
man to urge the importance in Argentina of the construction
of the Trans-Andean Railroad. In Santo Domingo he edited
the first laws concerning education and directed for nine years
the public education of that country.

While in Peru he began a campaign in favor of the protec-
tion of the Chinese there and aided the national government
in its controversy concerning the Oroya railroad. He worked
most arduously for the independence of Cuba and offered to
earn by means of his pen a million pesetas for the Liberal
Cause. Although he was a devotee of Bellas Artes, he did not
fail to recognize the disadvantage to the Latin-American people
of giving so much time to literature. In a study on the poems
of Mata, he says: "We have in the influence of poetry and
literature, in the imagination and character of the Latin Amer-
ican an opinion which it is important to give under two head-
ings. We believe that a people of so much imagination as
ours and societies of such insecure character as ours in all
Latin America, lose in reason what they gain in fantasy, and
dissipate in substance what they gain in form; with the almost
exclusive poetical and literary education which they receive.

"This is the reason why up to the present neither poetry nor
literature have educated the liking for literature and the
sensitive delicacy which, good and convenient as they are,
when they serve as a complement of a well balanced educa-
tion, with us are obstacles when the cultivation of forms takes
precedence over all else."

Pedro EnrUjiicz l'n ua, the son of Dona Salome Urena,
is another Dominican who has had a wide influence in different
parts of Latin America. His studies in Greek literature led him
to make a translation of some of Pater's essays under the
title "Estudios Griegos." His "Horas de Estudio" gives some
very delightful studies of philosophical, political and patriotic
subjects. One section, called "Literatura Espanola y Ameri-
cana," gives charming criticisms on the works of Ruben Dario
and other well-known authors. The section "De Mi Patria"
gives an extensive review of literature and intellectual life of
Santo Domingo. This book also contains several essays read

43

before the Mexican public while he was professor of literature
in the University of Mexico.

Archbishop Carlos Nouel has written a scholarly two-
volume "Ecclesiastical History of Santo Domingo" which is
full of valuable material, especially in reference to the first
fifty years of Dominican life.

In spite of the literary achievements of these distinguished
Dominicans, the people of the Republic have little access to
good reading matter. Public libraries are chiefly notable by
their absence. Puerto Plata had the only such institution
observed by the writer in all of Santo Domingo. In the
larger towns, the clubs usually have some attempt at a library;
but the high walnut case of old leather-bound tomes usually
provided is not calculated to whet the literary appetite of
the Dominican youth, even if he might have access to this
restricted privilege of the elite of his city.

The towns on the Island have no bookstores worthy of
the name. Two small ones were noticed with a few novels
in stock, mostly translated from the French, and with a de-
cided tendency to the risque. These were supported by a
staid background of ancient works on philosophy, which few,
even among the scholarly, take time to read in these days.

An interesting trade custom was found to prevail among
these isolated booksellers, so far from all competition as well
as from any keen demand for their wares. The price of a
book is advanced in proportion to the time it has been kept
in stock. If the volume sells at four dollars this year, it will
bring five next year, and so on. What an insidious tempta-
tion to read the new best sellers ! The ghosts of Cervantes
and Calderon must rest uneasy.

For the majority, the newspapers furnish the only source
of reading. Practically all are published in the cities of Santo
Domingo, Santiago and Puerto Plata, and all are of modest
dimensions. The principal daily of the republic is the
"Listin Diario," of Santo Domingo. It has a circulation
of about 10,000. There are also published here the
"Revista Medica," "Revista de Agricultural' "Revista Judi-
cial," "Boletin Masonica," two small humorous papers; two
commercial sheets ; an illustrated paper, "Blanco y Negro,"
and a literary monthly, "Cuna de America." Santiago also
has two daily papers, as well as several small literary perio-
dicals. In Puerto Plata is published "El Porvenir," the oldest
of existing Dominican newspapers. In San Pedro de Macoris,
the only daily is "La Prensa."

44

CHAPTER VI
EDUCATION AND RELIGION

Education in America had its beginning in Santo Domingo.
The University of Saint Thomas was organized in 1538, with
the permission and backing of both the King of Spain and
the Pope of Rome. It was, of course, for the education of
the privileged classes for service to the Chifrch and State.
Its curriculum and faculty were entirely directed by the
Church. In the first half century of its existence it was noted
both for its learned professors and its distinguished graduates,
who went from its halls to Porto Rico, Cuba, Mexico, Panama
and South America. The University, along with the other
departments of life in the colony, gradually lost its prestige
and died away as the adventurous colonists heard the call of
"Westward Ho," in their search for gold, adventure and new
territory for State and Church. The University has been
closed for long periods of time and for that reason has lost
to Saint Mark's in Lima the designation of "the oldest Univer-
sity in America." When the American occupation took place,
the school was so disorganized that the authorities suppressed
it entirely. It has been revived, however, and now occupies
a modest two story building near the cathedral. The courses
are largely law and engineering, and the faculty is recruited
from among the professional men of the city, who come to
the school only for the hours when their lectures are given.

The long series of revolutions preceding the American
occupation left the educational system in a pitiable condition.
While there was universal desire for schools, financial limita-
tions allowed few of them. It seems that at every period when
there was promise for a great educational advance, it was
suddenly stopped by adverse political conditions. One of the
most serious setbacks was at the time of the Haitian occupa-
tion, when the Dominican cultured classes fled from the Island.
The intellectual circle, always notable in Santo Domingo in
spite of all discouragements, kept up its culture by sending
its sons and daughters abroad, largely to France, for their
education. The Government maintained a certain number of
students in the United States and other foreign countries on

45

scholarships (which unfortunately have been withdrawn by
the American military government because of the belief that
the privileges were being abused).

A generation ago, education in the Republic took on a re-
markable revival, under the inspiration of Eugenio de Hostos,
something of whose work has been related in the chapter on
Literature. He was a born pedagogue, that rare combina-
tion of profound student and inspiring instructor. Although
he was a native Porto-Rican, he gave most of his life to Santo
Domingo, and few men are so revered by the people. There
is a popular movement among his old students to collect the
notes on his lectures, and publish them. Not counting these,
however, he has left some forty volumes of writings. Another
noted Dominican author, who took great interest in education,
was the famous poetess, Salome Urena, who initiated a new
era of women's education by founding a girls' school, which
continues to exist, but with much of its prestige gone.

The American military occupation found about 20,000
pupils in schools. These pupils were mostly in little private
schools subsidized by the government, in which the one teach-
er who held the classes in a room in her own house, taught all
the grades. Not only pedagogical, but hygienic and moral
conditions were usually very low, as a visit to some of these
schools that still exist, amply demonstrates.

The advance in primary education made since the Amer-
ican occupation is nothing less than astounding. Colonel Lane
of the United States Marine Corps, who is now Minister of
Education, is widely known for his singular devotion to his
task. No one who has the privilege of making the rounds with
him to the schools in the capital, as the writer did, and seeing
the evident love of the children and admiration of the teachers
for one who takes the interest of a real father in his children,
can ever forget the impression. One of his most prized institu-
tions is the correctional school, where the toughest little
"wharf rats," thieves and beggars are being remade into use-
ful citizens through training as shoemakers, tailors and car-
penters. Not the least among the influences of reform is
American baseball, which is played not only by that school,
but by several others, under the inspection of the ever present
Colonel, who is most ably seconded by a young Dominican,
educated in Baltimore, who acts as Superintendent of Schools.

In one of the schools held in the former residence of the
Archbishop, who is glad to rent it for the purpose, there are
nrolled 400 pupils. A system of rural schools is being organ-
ized as rapidly as possible and gardens planted in connection

46

with many. There are twenty-five Porto Ricans, trained in
agriculture, who have been brought over to teach the children
and their parents by means of these schools and institutes
something of modern agriculture. Santo Domingo will soon
be turning out some of these teachers also, as a new agricul-
tural school is being built by the Government near the recently
opened experimental farm.

Beyond the correctional school and the agricultural school,
no industrial work is being done or contemplated by the Gov-
ernment. Colonel Lane believes that the government's first
job is to teach the children to read and to write since the
object of the American occupation is to establish a capable
self-governing people, who must have reading and writing
as a tool of first importance, and since fund's are so limited he
is bending every energy toward this single object. Nothing
has yet been done even toward training teachers, except the
adding of two grades of normal training to the one high school
in Santo Domingo. In the tremendous speeding up of primary
education, doubling the enrollment every year of the three
of American occupation, all kinds of teachers and buildings
have had to be used. The daily papers contain advertisements
every day for from ten to twenty teachers. Old stables, jails
and all kinds of buildings are laid hold of, hastily cleared out
and schools installed.

The present budget for public instruction is $1,500,000,
one-third of the amount being furnished by the national treas-
ury, another third by the municipalities and another by special
taxes. It will probably be some time before, in justice to the
people, this amount can be greatly augmented. The great
need for help from outside forces is therefore easily seen, es-
pecially along the lines of industrial training and preparation
of teachers.

There are very few private schools, religious or secular,
in the country. In the capital there are two small commercial
schools giving courses in the evenings and a girls' private
school, with 140 enrolled, giving courses from kindergarten,
through the primary grades. The Episcopalians conduct a
small primary school for American children in the rector's
residence. The Catholic church maintains Colegio San Tomas
with miserable equipment, enrolling some twenty-one boys
with eight students for the priesthood. There are few private
schools of any consequence outside the capital. The few
primary schools conducted by Protestants are mentioned in
the section on Religion.

The Roman Catholic Church in Santo Domingo has a

47

noble heritage. It was here that Padre de Las Casas began his
unselfish labors for the Indians. He was accompanied by a
number of other most devoted padres, who extended their mis-
sionary labors to neighboring Spanish colonies. The story of
their sacrifice and consecration is fascinatingly told in the vol-
ume llistoria Eclesidstica, edited by the present Archbishop,
Monsignor Nouel.

The Church remembers with pride those glorious days,
while the Archbishop of Santo Domingo, because this was the
first office of its kind created in America, is still regarded as the
i'rimate of the West Indies. The present Archbishop is a fine
gentleman, one would say "a good fellow" if it were permis-
sible, and is probably the most popular Dominican both with
the Americans and among his own people. At the suggestion
of two Commissioners sent to the island by the United States
in 1912, the Archbishop was elected President of the Republic.
He held office only a few months, however, when conditions
became so difficult that he left the country and cabled his
resignation. He was the second Archbishop to be president
during this generation.

The Church has lost the prestige of the old days and if it
were not for the popularity of the Archbishop it is hard to
know what would be its state. No one seems to regard it in
a serious light or as having anything to do with present day
life and problems. Not that there is hostility — only an ignor-
ing of its existence except as it furnishes through its cere-
monies and feast days the occasion for social functions.

The report that one gets everywhere is that the priesthood
is generally low bred and immoral. A steamship captain who
has coasted the Island for twenty-five years says the priests
are among the lowest class passengers he carries.

The Catholic Encyclopedia reports 66 secular priests and
12 regular priests, 32 sisters of charity, 68 churches, 103
chapels and 1 seminary.

Priests not infrequently sit as members of congress or
of municipal councils, not as priests but as citizens.

The status of church property is not clear. There was
recently an attempt, following the example of Mexico and other
Latin-American countries, to nationalize church property, but
this was strenuously opposed by the Ecclesiastical author-
ities and no definite decision has been reached in the matter.

Referring to general religious conditions, Schoenrich says :

"The absence of religious fanaticism is exemplified by the tolerance
accorded all religious sects. These, it is true, are but slimly rep-

48

resented. Of the Jewish faith there are probably not two dozen
persons in the Republic. The Protestants are almost entirely negroes
from the British and former Danish islands and other foreigners, and
descendants of the American negroes. For these the Wesleyan
Methodist Church of England maintains a flourishing mission with
chapels in Puerto Plata. Samana and Sanchez, and a small branch in
Santo Domingo City. The principal chapel is in Puerto Plata, which
is also the residence of the minister in charge of the mission. The
African Methodist Church also has small stations at Samana and
San Pedro de Macon's, though the word 'African' does not tend to
make the church popular in Santo Domingo. There is. further, an
almost abandoned Baptist mission in Puerto Plata and Monte Cristi.
In all these churches, services are generally carried on in the English
language alone. In San Francisco de Macoris, Protestant services
are conducted in Spanish by devotees who do not seem to be ordained
by any particular sect."

The African Methodist Episcopal Church has the oldest
Protestant work in Santo Domingo. It was established when
President Boyer in about 1830 brought negro slaves as colon-
ists into the island which was at that time under the control
of Haiti. Boyer sent a committee to the United States and
made great promises to them concerning land and other priv-
ileges that he would give them. But he did not fulfill his
promises and much suffering followed, many of them dying.
But the colony which was located at Samana has maintained
its integrity, blood and language, and today reminds one very
much of the negroes of the southern part of the United States.
The Rev. J. P. James is the presiding elder in charge of all
the work. At Samana they have a church building, 325 mem-
bers, most of them English speaking; once in a while they
have a service in Spanish. They have a school in the church
with 35 children. They have a school building nine miles out
from Samana with about 85 pupils ; two Sunday schools ; four
workers altogether in Samana.

In San Pedro de Macoris they have a church building in
the city with 300 members, unordained minister; one day
school — 50 pupils; have meetings in three sugar estates near-
by; one day school and a hundred members in the sugar estates.

In Santo Domingo City they have a little store building
given to them by President Boyer, which they use as a church.
There are about a dozen members at present. The only other
Protestant church building in the city is a little ragged chapel,
across the street, which represents a split from its near neigh-
bor. This church was first under the Missionary Alliance,
but has recently been transferred to the Moravians. Both of
these churches are for English speaking negroes. The Protest-
ant Episcopalians hold services for Americans in the Customs
Collector's building. This is the representation of Protest-

49

antism in the capital city of Santo Domingo, with absolutely
no service in Spanish.

The work of the Moravians is in charge of Rev. T. Van
Vlek, located in San Pedro de Macoris. In that city they have
a church building and parsonage with a day school in the
church. They also have a small church building at La Romana
with two or three other preaching points. All of their work
is for English speaking negroes.

The Wesleyan Methodists have had work in Santo Do-
mingo for at least a half century. It is in charge of Rev. W.
E. Mears, the only foreigner employed by the Wesleyan Board
in Santo Domingo. He has been in Santo Domingo for over
thirty years, but is discouraged because of lack of support
from the home base. There is an English speaking church
at Puerto Plata, which has a good building on a hill, and has
exerted a fine influence in the community. Mr. Mears has also
recently begun meetings in Spanish, which are conducted by
a young convert in a rented room. There are small Wesleyan
congregations in Sanchez, Samana and Monte Cristi.

A few earnest people belonging to the Free Methodist
Church came as independent workers to northern Santo Do-
mingo in about 1890, and began work in Spanish. The mission
has had a checkered career. There are now two men and four
women workers, located in Santiago, La Vega and San Fran-
cisco de Macoris. It is a great pity that the earnest devotion
of these workers is not equaled by the equipment with which
they are compelled to struggle. The school, conducted at San
Francisco de Macoris, is exerting a splendid influence in the
community, though suffering greatly from lack of help. The
seemingly inevitable split has come in this work also, and a
native has led out a little group, which calls itself the national
church.

The Episcopal Church has just begun work in the Republic
with a rented chapel at Santo Domingo City. This is at pres-
ent in charge of Archdeacon Wylie, who, with his good wife,
is indispensable to the American colony in Santo Domingo.
At San Pedro de Macoris there is also a small church which
is Episcopalian in its general teaching but whose connection
with the church authorities is a very loose one. Other services
are held as opportunity offers in nearby towns and sugar
plantations. The present work and all planned is in English.

Bishop Colmore of Porto Rico, in charge of this work, has
the following to say concerning it :

50

"San Domingo is not a Negro republic, although it shares the
same island with Haiti. We are proud of our government as we see
what she is doing for these weaker people torn by revolutions.

"While there is a dense population it is almost entirely a rural
one. We must educate these people along industrial lines so that
they may know how to be good citizens under the conditions in
which they will live for the rest of their lives. They must be taught
the dignity of labor. Not long ago, I had an application from a young
Haitian boy to be received as a postulant for the ministry. The head
of the agricultural school had asked me to send him two of our boys
and I thought this was a good opportunity to give him just the
training he needed. So I told him of this opportunity to get training
with his hands to begin with, but he said, 'No, I don't want to work,
I want to go into the ministry.' There are thousands and thousands
of children there without opportunity for education at all, and thous-
ands and thousands of people who are living without any medical help
except what the witch doctors give them.

"One important element in our work is the English-speaking
negro. They have come to Porto Rico in many thousands from the
islands where the Anglican Church is at work. We have much I i
learn from our brethren of the English Church. One morning during
my visit to our new possessions the Virgin Islands, as the guest of
the Bishop of Antigua, I went to one of the early services and saw
the white people and the black people kneeling round God's table
together. We have many of these people in the Dominican Republic.
There are estimated to be at least 20,000 in that republic alone. Will
you believe it when I tell you that there is only one clergyman of
the Anglican communion to take care of those people?"

A report was issued in 1915 concerning the occupancy of
Santo Domingo by Evangelical missions by the Rev. Philo
\V. Drury, who made a trip to the field to study the situation.
While this was a year before the American occupation, since
when many changes have taken place, it seems well to quote
the following from the report :

"There are a number of reasons that make immediate occupancy
of the Dominican Republic especially urgent. A new era of political
stability and material progress seems to have been inaugurated.
Along with the material progress there is an honest effort being made
to advance the educational interests of the country. These facts
suggest the urgency of introducing the Gospel at this time, and getting
into the current of improvement and progress, and thus grow up with
the country. Effort made now will undoubtedly give larger returns
than at any future time.

"The cost of work will be high. On account of the nigh tarifl
the cost of living is somewhat greater than in Porto Rico. The Gov-
ernment architect, who has had experience in building both in Porto
Rico and in Santo Domingo, estimates that the cost of building in
Santo Domingo would be double what it is in Porto Rico. Other in-
vestigations have led us to believe that the cost of maintaining mis-
sions in Santo Domingo would be some fifty per cent more than in
Porto Rico.

"Another difficulty to be considered is the anti-American spirit
that exists. The United States looms up over the horizon as a

51

powerful neighbor who may have designs against the political in-
dependence of the Republic. The intercourse that the Dominicans
have had with Americans has been almost wholly of a political and
commercial character, and these relations, we are sorry to say, have
often been of such a nature as to awaken antipathy in the minds of
the Dominicans against the Americans. However, Mr. W. W. Rus-
sell, United States Minister to Santo Domingo, informed us that this
anti-American spirit is not universal, and while it frequently mani-
tests itself, it is in the main limited to the disgruntled and obstruc-
tionist element.

"The difficulties are not, however, of sufficient weight to deter
God's people from obeying the Great Commission and from includ-
ing Santo Domingo in their program. There are other things that
ought to encourage them to go up and possess this land. There is
complete religious freedom in the Republic. There is already a
breaking away from the domination of the Catholic Church. A
proof of this may be found in the laws passed against the protest of
the clergy relative to the liberty of worship, the modernizing of the
school system, etc.

"Many of the facts herein stated demonstrate clearly that the
people of Santo Domingo have entered with determination on the
struggle upward, and we are convinced that they are deserving of
the help that will come from the introduction of Evangelical Christ-
ianity. Here the lottery prevails with the authorization of the Gov-
ernment, but not all of the people approve the lottery system. In a
very exhaustive report made to the Senate for the year 1910, the
Secretary of the Treasurer condemns in the severest terms the lot-
tery as productive of idleness, and on the ground of haying tendencies
of a decided immoral character he pleads for its abolition. This re-
port, as well as other documents, indicates clearly that public atten-
tion is being drawn to this and kindred problems upon whose proper
solution depends so much the welfare of the country. Everywhere is
there evidence of new ideals, and the general tendency is upward.

"Another encouragement is the constant intercourse between Porto
Rico and this Republic. It is estimated that there are now at least
15,000 Porto Ricans in Santo Domingo. Many of these have already
received favorable impressions of the Gospel, and would be easily
reached. We met a number who knew us in Porto Rico and they
invariably greeted us with great cordiality, and many expressed
the desire to see Evangelical missions opened in Santo Domingo.
In many cases, no doubt, these Porto Ricans would help to over-
come prejudice, and would induce the Dominicans to attend the
services. It is in harmony with the facts to state that in the work
being done Protestant Christianity is not being fairly represented
before the Dominican people. All efforts to reach them have been
of an independent character, and in the main unsuccessful, so that we
give credence to the statement made some four years ago by a
Dominican historian that 'the pastors of other religious sets have
not converted to their belief one Dominican.' What is being done is
one of the strongest arguments in favor of doing something more,
in order that Protestantism may have a fair representation before
this people."

What the Christian agencies are doing to give the Domin-
ican people a new way of life, can be summed up in a few words.
The Catholic Church is extremely weak both in its schools

and its churches. For the Protestant Church this republic
is practically a virgin field. The little work that has been
done is largely among the negroes, so that many believe that
the evangelical church is only for colored people.

The very fact that there has been so little Protestant work
done in Santo Domingo leaves the field free for the beginning
of an entirely new plan of action, and gives opportunity for
a united program without the introduction of a divided Pro-
testantism. Several of the Missionary Boards that are already
doing work in the West Indies have agreed to form a union
board of trustees, select a superintendent of the work, and
carry on the activities unitedly without introducing sectarian
divisions as they exist in the United States. This union board
of trustees will have the entire responsibility for administering
the work under the co-operating Boards.

The program proposed for the next five years includes the
opening of two principal centers : one in Santo Domingo City
in the south, and the other at Santiago in the north. The
larger program in Santo Domingo City will be an institu-
tional church erected in a prominent part of the city. This
building will contain a large auditorium in which all kinds
of community services can be held. It will have also a chapel
and rooms for classes, clubs, and other organized activities.
There will be lectures on moral, educational and religious
topics; courses in religious education; a public forum; liter-
ary societies; boys' and girls' clubs; a kindergarten and night
school; a clinic for the poor, and a public library. An indus-
trial school will be built in the suburbs of the city, in which
will be given courses in trades, agriculture, sanitation, com-
munity service, preparation for rural teaching, and domestic
science. A hospital and nurses' training school will constitute
another important part of these activities.

In Santiago, a similar program will be developed, with the
exception of a hospital, which will probably not be necessary,
since a good municipal hospital is now being built. Co-opera-
tion in the proper conducting of the hospital and providing of
personnel can be given if necessary.

Four smaller centers are to be opened, the principal equip-
ment being an institutional church with an auditorium of
sufficient size for conducting community meetings and show-
ing educational films; rooms for night classes, clubs, courses
in religious education, and a public library. The four points
suggested for these institutional churches are San Pedro de
Macoris, Puerto Plata, Sanchez, and A/.ua.

53

PART SECOND

HAITI

CHAPTER I

HISTORY

THE United States has had a little experience in colonial
government since we became a world power, following
the Spanish-American War; but Haiti differs from all
the rest of our protectorates. The Philippines come nearest to
the position of Haiti in presenting difficulties for the develop-
ment of a stable government, but Haiti is entirely a black
man's land. Porto Rico has the greatest proportion of white
blood of any of the West Indies and has shown a greater
element of political stability. Cuba has a population about
two-thirds white ; Panama's population is very mixed, but there
is at least a dominating class with Spanish blood. Santo
Domingo might be called a mulatto republic, but the intel-
lectual element is largely Spanish. Nicaragua is predominantly
Indian, but the influential political force is of almost pure
white blood.

Haiti, however, is the black man's paradise and presents
an entirely new problem in our international relations. Only
since 1899 have white men been able to hold land or become
citizens. Very few white men have taken advantage of this
provision. Whites in Haiti are looked upon with more prejudice
than is manifested toward the negro in the United States.
Thus not only is the problem complicated by the low scale
of civilization existing among the natives, but also by the race
prejudice which exists between the white man of the United
States and the negro people of the country.

The original population of Haiti was of course Indian, but
within less than fifty years of the first Spanish occupation of
the island the Indians had been practically exterminated and
the importation of negro slaves from Africa was well under
way. Slavery was abolished in 1793, but not until such a
number of negros had been imported that the Indian element
had disappeared utterly and the country had become one of
as pure black blood as could be found in Africa itself.

54

Haiti is peculiar among the American Republics, in that
her language, traditions, many features of her form of gov-
ernment in the past and many of her customs are French.
The language of the country, while more French than anything
else, makes the patois of Louisiana and of Quebec seem of
almost Parisian purity in comparison. This Gallic influence
came originally from the French freebooters who located at
first on Tortuga Island and later came over to the mainland.

In 1795, Spain transferred the whole island to France, and
the French colony developed in numbers and riches. Freedom
of the slaves was granted partially by the French authorities
in order to secure the co-operation of the blacks in repelling
an English invasion. This being successfully accomplished,
the slaves rose against the French and, in spite of all the en-
deavors of Napoleon, succeeded in driving practically all the
white men from the island. This was accompanied by a rever-
sion to savage barbarity and cruelty which rendered the island
secure to the black men for a long time. In December 1806
the first president was elected under the constitution of the
Republic of Haiti. His first official act was to proclaim him-
self king. This led to civil war, and the republic has since
then maintained but a precarious existence.

Of the twenty-five presidents who had held office down
to 1903, three were assassinated ; one died from wounds re-
ceived in his palace; one committed suicide; fifteen were
driven out by revolutions, thirteen of whom sought safety in
exile ; three died in office. One has had the distinction of living
out his term, retiring and dying a natural death in his own
country. It is no wonder that with all these revolutions pros-
perity was destroyed. The island was once one of the great-
est sugar producing regions of the world and one of the most
highly prized of French colonies.

Roads which formerly traversed the island in all directions
are overgrown with trees a hundred years old; plantations
that yielded princely incomes have gone back to the jungle,
while palaces and bridges are but picturesque ruins.

In 1914 Great Britain, Germany and France made demands
for the control of customs in order to protect their loans. The
Haitian government suspended all payments on obligations
at the beginning of the European war. The president,
Theodore, found himself in such a difficult position that he
committed suicide in 1915. Preceding his death Admiral
Caperton, with a portion of the United States South Atlantic
Fleet, was ordered from Vera Cruz to Port au Prince. July
27, 1915, marked the beginning of a ten-days' reign of terror

55

in the capital. The new President, Guillaume-Sam, suspected
everyone. One hundred and sixty representative men of the
city were thrown into jail and held as hostages. Some of his
troops revolted against him. Seeing that he would be com-
pelled to flee, he caused the death of the one hundred and
sixty political prisoners and then made his escape to the
French legation. When the populace heard of this wholesale
murder, the mob invaded the French legation, dragged Sam
out into the streets, hacked his body into pieces which were
distributed as souvenirs, and marched through the streets with
the head of the unfortunate president stuck on a pole.

Admiral Caperton, notified by the French minister of the
terrible situation, landed marines on July 29th. Six Haitians
and two Americans were killed in the fight. On August 12th,
under American auspices, an election was held which resulted
in the naming of General d'Artiguenave as President. Elected
under American supervision, he was of course sympathetic
with the American occupation and soon agreed, in spite of
bitter opposition, that a convention be entered into with the
United States, which would provide for the control of ex-
penditures and the maintenance of order by that country. The
chief provisions of this convention are as follows :

First: American control of customs and an American
financial advisor. Second : Organization of a Haitian gen-
darmerie, officered by Americans. Third : United States to
manage all expenditures of public moneys, and to pay the in-
terest and sinking fund of the public debt, turning the excess
income over current expenses back to the Haitian govern-
ment. Fourth : Haiti to cede no territory to any nation but
the United States. Fifth : No Haitians to be allowed to carry
arms. Sixth : Convention to last ten years and an equal addi-
tional period if its objects were not accomplished by that time.
Military law was established by the U. S. Occupation and
exists to this day. Under it are punishable offences against
the statutes of the U. S. A., against political affairs of Haiti
and the law governing the possession and use of firearms ; in
all other matters Haitian law prevails, and is administered by
the courts. The country is policed by a native corps officered
by Americans. Of the Occupation nearly all officers and men
are stationed in Port-au-Prince and Cap Haiti. In the former
the men live in barracks while at the Cape they live in camp,
the officers for the most part occupying private houses.
Brigadier General Catlin, officer commanding the U. S. Ex-
peditionary Force in Haiti and who was wounded at Chateau
Thierry, has his headquarters at Port-au-Prince.

56

CHAPTER II
CROSSING THE ISLAND

THE trip from Cap Haitien on the north to Port-au-Prince
in the south of Haiti, a distance of 180 miles, is one of
the most interesting in the world. It has only been
during the last two years that the American military forces
have made the trip possible except on horse back. It was a
very doubtful enterprise which a Secretary of Commission on
Training Camp Activities and I set out to accomplish in his
Ford car. Reports had it there that it was very dangerous,
if not impossible, for two reasons, the bad roads and the
"Cacos" as the Haitian bandits are called. Loaded with extra
tires and other repair material for the machine, a couple of
Smith and Wesson forty-fives and a good shot gun, we left
Monte Cristi, D. R., on a Friday morning. A two-hour drive
brought us to the Masacre River, the dividing line between
the Dominican Republic and Haiti. At the river side we found
the interesting town of Dajabon, and one of the prettiest open
air markets that I have ever seen, with all kinds of tropical
fruits, including the ever present mango, the aguacate, the
plantain, and many others that I had never seen before. It
is a real international exchange as the Haitians come across
the river to buy and sell, expecting the same thing of the
Dominicans on their market day in Quanaminth, on the follow-
ing Tuesday.

We found the river was up higher than it had been known
to be for a long time, due to a very heavy rain the night before.
Our first impression was that it would be impossible for us
to cross, but the obliging lieutenant of the Dominican "guardia
nacional" (the national police force organized by the Marines,
in which Dominican privates are officered by marines detailed
for this duty), assured us that the natives could push the car
through, if we would get out of the way all our baggage that
we didn't want wet and stop up our engine to keep the water
out. After waiting for a couple of hours to let the river drop a
bit, which it was doing very rapidly, I took the baggage across
in a row boat and the chauffeur guided the faithful flivver
into the muddy and rushing waters, while ten husky Haitians

57

stripped of all the bothersome trappings of civilization, shoved
the car through safely to the opposite shore. A picture of
the never-to-be-forgotten scene will show the American and
the Ford, the water rushing over the seat, the naked negroes
shoving and pushing and perspiring from their exertion, but
it cannot tell of all the yelling and cursing and singing and
"heave altogether" of the natives. Such a mixture of the
modern and of "darkest Africa" one could not imagine. On
either side of the straining, struggling men, were women, with
great baskets of fruit and all kinds of trinkets securely balan-
ced on their heads, as, they, with their slips of dresses rolled
up above the water line, were slipping and sliding through
the swift stream in order to get their products to the market
or their purchases back home. Often they led a horse, with
a youngster clinging on its back and another person swing-
ing to its tail, thus being pulled through the swift current
with a little more surety of not slipping. It was worth a trip
from New York to Haiti to see this characteristic scene.

Such was our introduction to Haiti ! A month in Santo
Domingo had made us feel as if that must be in some ways the
most backward of all countries. But I began to appreciate
the remark of a group of travelers, one of whom had said that
when he came from Santo Domingo City to San Juan he felt
as though he were going into New York City, so great was
the contrast. Another added that in the same way, in coming
from Port-au-Prince to Santo Domingo, one felt that he was
going into New York. The difference between Santo Domingo
and Haiti is very marked. We had now come into the coun-
try where the black man is supreme. And all the time we
were in the country districts, and a good deal of the time we
were in the cities, we felt that we were in the heart of Africa.

Once across the river into Haiti we began to realize an-
other thing — how much denser the population is than we
had found it in Santo Domingo. On the country roads there
is a constant procession of people, all evidently going to or
coming from market in nearby towns. On our first day's drive
it seemed to me we must have passed thousands of women
and children, some on horses, more on burros but most of
them on foot, with great burdens on their beasts or on their
heads. The majority of the women had baskets of fruit on
their heads, but there were chickens, dye wood, cotton,
Standard Oil cans, trinkets, and a thousand things, balanced
absolutely. Sometimes there would be a regular Woolworth
tower built up, with a hat hung on one side and a tin can on
the other so that it would seem impossible to keep the

58

equilibrium, especially as there was often a baby thrown on
the side of the hip, where it rode with perfect unconcern.

A woman will walk with one of these heavy loads twenty,
twenty-five and thirty miles to market. If you should try to
buy her products before she has reached town she would most
likely refuse, for about all the joy she gets in life is going
to market where she will sit all day, usually in the hot tropical
sun, gossiping with her neighbors and bargaining with the
customers. A basket of fruit will bring two or three gourdes
(a gourde equals 20 cents gold), and a burro load of dye wood
or cotton, which often requires three days' travel to get to
market, will sell for six or seven gourdes. Of course, it takes
very little labor to raise these things. Here one actually finds
such an expensive article as cotton growing on trees — bushes
averaging about fifteen feet in height, which grow wild and
produce a fair grade of cotton.

As one drives along the road and sees the constant proces-
sion of women and children moving up and down like ants
preparing for a winter's siege, the natural question is "where
are the men?" Well, in the first place, many have been killed
off by the constant revolutions. Those remaining are afraid
to venture out too much lest they be forced into a fresh military
uprising of some kind. So they stay at home resting or per-
haps tending the garden a bit or telling the women folks who
are left at home, how to do the necessary work. A man's
family interests are generally pretty large, as can be under-
stood when the following remarks of an old man are consider-
ed : "Well, I am getting old. When I was young I used to
have ten wives, but now they have all left me but two." Of
course there is little regard for marriage in our sense of the
word among these primitive people. Here is one country
where statistics on legitimacy are not kept. I was told that
in the cities the women of the better classes generally main-
tain faithful relations to one husband. But the men often have
a plurality of wives — a man of the higher classes having one
real wife and other women of a lower class, whom he may
quite publicly support with their children, who are not in-
frequently brought into the legitimate family as servants;
the relationship being entirely understood by all concerned.

The fact is that the people of the country districts, which
means over ninety per cent of the population, are little above
the animal. The women seem to have little sense of modesty.
Men, women and children live in little shacks, all sleeping
huddled together, as they also do on the side of the road when
night overtakes them. An army officer told me of a prisoner

59

that had just been brought in from the hills, who acted just
like an animal, eating the mud that was on his arms and trying
to chew the rope with which he was bound.

Some American officers who have worked long with the
rural Haitians feel that the outlook for their education to high-
er standards is not encouraging, especially with those who
have already attained years of maturity. The children, they
maintain, are unusually bright and full of promise.

Cap Haitien, the principal town in the north and second in
size in the Republic is on the sea, sixty miles from where we
crossed the border at Quanaminth. We reached there about
four p. m. and after reporting to the Major in charge of the
Marines, went to the "New York Hotel" to stay over night.
I will not enter into a description of the Haitian hotels. Lan-
guage would fail me. The Dominican lady who kept this inn
however was very much delighted to hear her native Spanish
spoken and killed the fatted calf for us. In an hour's time,
she had set before us grape fruit, ham and eggs, fried chicken,
plantain, yams, guava jelly, and other good things. Plentiful
praise of this m,eal and of Santo Domingo brought forth a
dinner a few hours later that made our lunch look like the
proverbial thirty cents. Although we left at six the next morn-
ing she had coffee and eggs for us and a lunch arranged ; all
of which proved my theory that you can get anything in reason
from a Latin American by speaking his language and being
"simpatico."

Cap Haitien has regular calls from steamers of the Royal
Dutch Line sailing from New York to Suranim and French
Line from Panama, West Indian ports and to France. Various
freighters and tramps continually call to take away coffee,
cocoa, dye wood, cotton, honey, sugar, various hard woods
and other products which are raised in this wonderful fertile
soil.

Cap Haitien has a population estimated at from thirty to
forty thousand. It seems to be more progressive than the
capital. There is a railroad running about 23 kilometers into
the country — part of the system planned long ago to connect
Cap Haitien with the capital. The other end of this system,
from Port-au-Prince to St. Marc, a distance of 103 kilometers,
is also in operation, as is a small section about half way be-
tween the two cities. This will eventually be completed and
will mean much to the industrial development of the island.

The largest store in the town is an American auto supply
house which has branched out into handling many other lines.
The native stores all seem very small, though behind their

60

display rooms some of them carry a very large reserve stock.
This is a custom of Latin-American stores, which do not think
much of elaborate display of stock, so that often a store that
seems very small from the front will have an immense stock
in the rear warerooms. A search in the shops failed to reveal
anything of interest to a foreigner. There is not even enough
enterprise to have souvenir postal cards. There is no pretty
plaza, with attractive government building and church and
club, such as is found in almost every Spanish-American town.
The market is full of all kinds of tropical fruits, an infinite
variety of crabs, a few fish and poor meat.

The Marine Corps has about one hundred men stationed
here under command of a Colonel. An active Chaplain con-
ducts one of the best recreation centers on the island. A Navy
physician, detailed for sanitation work under the Haitian Gov-
ernment claims that he has little difficulty in getting the
Haitians to carry out the few simply sanitary regulations that
he has so far been able to introduce. The American consul is
a negro who has been in the country for some twenty years.
He is intelligent and accommodating, and evidently makes a
very acceptable representative.

By far the liveliest thing in town while I was there was a
merry go round, which after a run of five months in Port-au-
Prince had just been set up by an American. The whole town
was in excitement over the event. The little sheet called a
newspaper gave an extravagant notice of this fragment of
Coney Island with especial attention to the fine music box
that accompanied it. The elite of the city were in attendance.
Seats on the horses were in such demand by the grown people,
that the poor children hardly got a chance. The machine did
not stop, but merely slowed down between runs, the people
swarming on while the platform was still moving. Most of
the automobiles of the city were parked nearby and the society
folk visited back and forth when not riding as if between the
acts at grand opera. It was a perfect illustration of just how
naive are the Haitians. Any kind of work undertaken for
their betterment will have to take into consideration their
long isolation from the very commonplaces of modern civilized
life.

The location of Cap Haiticn on a semicircular bay. with
mountains all around as a background, is very beautiful. Here,
Columbus landed on his first voyage. He entered the bay on
Christmas day, 1492, and for that reason called the fort he
here built, "La Navidad." He had already touched at a point
further west which he called Puerto de Paz. because of the

61

friendly way he was received by the Indians, who invited him
to visit the cacique's residence, farther along- the coast. About
midnight when off Cap Haitien one of his vessels was caught
in a current and swept on a sand bank where she keeled over.
With the wreckage of the vessel Columbus built a fort in
which he left thirty-nine men, while he returned to Spain.

Cap Haitien was once the center of luxury and wealth,
being the first French town of importance on the Island. Not
far away to the north west is the island known as Tortuga
(Turtle) which was for so long the headquarters of the English
and French buccaneers. When the French finally took entire
possession of the island, they overflowed to the mainland of
Haiti and thus began the French influence, which as far as
language is concerned lasts till today. Following the progres-
sive period under French control, it again came into political
prominence as the capital of Christophe, the negro who aided
Toussant to expel the French in the early part of the nine-
teenth century and then set up an independent kingdom in the
North, with the title of King Henry. After having committed
the most horrible barbarities using every imaginable means of
torturing the whites, all of whom were murdered, he burnt the
city and withdrew to the hills, where he erected himself a
palace and a most remarkable fort, worthy to be called the
eighth wonder of the world. The ruins of both the palace and
fort may be seen in their imposing grandeur by a visit re-
quiring a day on horseback from the Cape. The palace called
Sans Souci was the most wonderful building of the West
Indies, and even in its present decay reveals the great arches,
huge walls and terraced gardens, where the most pompous
king in the history of the negro race held his court. His
court, as created by him, consisted of his own children called
"princes of the royal blood," eight dukes — including one "Duke
of Lemonade" — thirty-seven barons, and other nobility, all
ex-slaves or sons of slaves, and all as black as the ace of
spades. The King himself was a native of one of the British
West Indies, and showed the influence of his birth as a British
"object," as the West Indian Negros call themselves, by in-
troducing a number of Protestant clergymen into his court
and kingdom.

Still further inland from his palace and on the very sum-
mit of the pyramid-shaped mountain La Ferriere, the king
built the still more wonderful fort, about which are related the
most remarkable stories of its cost in human lives. But those
who have visited the place say that no story would seem to
exaggerate the superhuman efforts necessary to haul up the

62

steep mountain sides the great cannon that still remain seated
on the massive walls of the fort.

"Above the summit of the cone-shaped mountain the
mighty walls of the fort tower upwards for one hundred feet.
About them is a wide, deep moat, spanned by a single draw
bridge, and within are enormous galleries one above another,
and mounting scores, yes hundreds, of cannon. In the centre
of the great structure is the tomb of the king, but like the
treasure vault nearby, open and rifled of its contents. But
while the mortal remains of the black monarch have long since
disappeared, his fort still stands upon its lofty perch above the
wilderness and his rusting cannon still point theft: mute
muzzles towards an expected foe that never came to invade
the solitude or to disturb the reign of the negro king."

The road from Cap Haitien to Port-au-Prince leads first of
all across the Limbe River, which as it has no bridge is likely to
prove troublesome after a rain. A marine officer had anticipat-
ed this and telephoned to a camp near by to have the prisoners
there to shove our car across. So it happened that we had
about the same experience as we had crossing the Masacre,
but with less mud and more men, the crossing was more
quickly effected and with no cost but a cigarette apiece to
the prisoners. From the river the climb over the mountain
is begun. This is the most thrilling part of the trip, both be-
cause we were then getting into the bandit country and because
the road itself over the mountain presents many thrills. In
about an hour we had climbed to the summit, three thousand
feet above the river below. The road zigzags along the brow
of the mountain, and often there are only a few inches between
you and an abyss of several hundred feet. Slow and careful
driving is absolutely essential and a strong nerve and con-
fidence in the man at the wheel make the trip more pleasant.
At one place the curve is so sharp that a large car has to make
a switch-back, in order to negotiate the turn. Going down
the mountain, one runs suddenly upon this place, where, if
he has not been warned to have his car under absolute control,
he might easily go straight ahead five or six feet and into the
valley six hundred feet below. It is only within the last few
weeks that there has been even a small log placed there to
indicate the danger. As we stopped to let the engine cool,
we caught some of the most beautiful vistas imaginable, with
the road winding around down the valley and, away below,
the river like a silver ribbon, stretching on toward the sea.
The tropical verdure never appeared so beautiful as from an
eminence like this.

63

Almost at the summit we came to the little town of Plais-
ance. It was indeed a pleasant little place, with the coolest
of breezes and its picturesque little mountain huts. But I
could sympathize with the four American boys who had been
stationed there for months. The latest paper they had seen
was four months old, "And look at these people; just look at
these people we have to live with," said one as he told us with
what enthusiasm he had enlisted to fight in France and instead
had been sent to this God-forsaken place. About three weeks
before the "Cacos" had made a raid on the town and there was
a good deal of excitement as a result. From here on through
to Port-au-Prince we were to be entertained continually by
stories of fights with the "Cacos," but fortunately these gentry
had shifted further back into the hills away from the mainroad.

About half way between the Cape and the Port is found
the attractive little city of Gonaives, third in size and im-
portance of Haitian towns. It is situated on a beautiful bay
and visited by small coastwise trading craft. Large quantities
of mahogany, dyewood and all kinds of agricultural products
are shipped from here. Several foreign merchants live here,
and back in the interior is found some of the richest of all
the rich lands of Haiti, if any can be said to excel in the
general fertility. The town seemed to me to be about the clean-
est and to have the nearest approach to culture of any that I
visited. Saint Marc, about fifty miles south, facing the same
beautiful bay and with the same wonderful surrounding scene-
ry, is very similar in appearance, with probably a few less
inhabitants than the twenty thousand claimed by Gonaives.
No more beautiful site could possibly be found for a town.
As we wandered through the streets, watched the lazy, half-
clad inhabitants, put up for the night at the "American Hotel"
absolutely the worst hostelry I have seen in forty countries
visited, went to a native dance where scenes of unbelievable
obscenity were witnessed, and then went down on the sea
shore to sit in the moon light to see if all that glorious beauty
could take the awful taste out of our mouths, never did the
words of the old hymn seem so appropriate. "Where every
prospect pleases and only man is vile."

Between Gonaives and Saint Marc is the Artibonite River,
the largest in Haiti. Here indeed is a veritable Garden of
Eden, where everything that man calls precious is grown
without the trouble of cultivation. Riding along the country
road which is lined with half naked natives going and coming
from market, or sitting in the shade gossiping and exchang-
ing products, or bathing in a near-by stream, one passes all

64

manner of tropical verdure, palms, the great royal ones,
and the more useful cocoanut, coffee, bananas, sugar-cane,
castor beans, aguacates, and mangos, mangos, mangos — every
native is eating a mango. Then there is the great spreading
flamboyant tree, with its beautiful red flowers, and orchids by
the millions — enough for all the wives of all the presidents of
all the real and so-called republics of the world — and great
swarms of myriad-colored butterflies. For miles and miles
the road runs through this verdure, emerging once in a while
on to the seashore, where the lazy waves run up under the
wheels of your car and out on the bluest of blue waters arc-
seen the little sailboats of the native fishermen. As the spell
of the tropics gradually possesses you, it begins to be very
clear why people here are not particularly interested in doing
today what can be put off till tomorrow.

It seems a far cry from such a scene as this to bandits and
revolutions. Yet Saint Marc is reputed to be a very popular
place for the beginning of revolutions and its vicinity is now
supposed to contain several bands of "Cacos." It was not
without gusto therefore that we took into our car the Amer-
ican captain of the Gendarmes of this section who wanted to
make a trip to a neighboring town to investigate rumors of
"Caco" activities there. This Marine had been in this same
job for three years and the stories he told us of his experiences
will never be forgotten. He was only one of several people
we found waiting on the road for some conveyance to take
them to the next town and were able to accommodate. An
automobile charges all the way from a hundred to a hundred
and fifty dollars for the trip from the Port to the Cape, and
from Santiago, S. D. to Port-au-Prince the charge is at least
two hundred dollars. Roads are rough, rivers are likely to
be up, breakdowns are easy, gasoline is eighty cents a gallon
and delays are likely to lengthen the trip indefinitely. How
thankful we were then to pull into Port-au-Prince on Sunday
morning in good time to put up our faithful flivver, find a hotel
and bath, and get to the Episcopal Church at 10:30 for service.
Probably it was because I had been "fed up" on Columbus
recently, but anyway my mind kept going back during the
service to how natural it was for the Discoverer to rai
cross as his first act when he landed at a new port or visited
a new part of the country.

Port-au-Prince is a city of some 90.000 people, more
than twice as large as any other town in Haiti. The .'own-
town district, stretching from the wharf up to the "Champ
de Mars," a large unimproved plaza, is made up chiefly

65

of dirty, unattractive, two-story frame and brick buildings,
many of them leaning heavily on their neighbors for support.
Stores are small, unattractive and poorly stocked. There is
one small bookstore in the place, but not a magazine or book
in English can be bought in the whole city, notwithstanding
the fact that there are about a thousand American officials
and marines living there constantly. One shop has just begun
to carry a few Kodak fdms and a little ice-cream parlor has
been opened recently, responding to the marines' demands.
There are two social clubs for the elite, but they are only used
for cards and social occasions. There are two small motion
picture theatres which give shows on alternate nights. There
are no organized sports, except horse-racing and cockfighting,
and no athletic grounds or clubs where young men can gather
for innocent play or study. There are no public libraries, night
schools, literary societies, public lectures or other means for
the improvement of the young people. No community service
of any kind is carried on by either the Catholic churches or
the three small Protestant Churches of the city. There is one
hospital where more than 300 patients are continually crowded.

One sees few cultured-looking Haitian women on the
streets of Port-au-Prince, and on the entire trip from Cap
Haitien to Port-au-Prince, we passed only two women wearing
shoes. There is a small circle of the privileged class women
who draw their styles and other inspirations directly from
Paris, but they seem to keep pretty much out of the public
gaze. In the stores French is spoken, as well as the native
patois.

The strongest contrasts of the old and new are found on
the streets, well paved under American direction, where a
high-powered car will blow its horn to scatter a bunch of
half naked black men, who, as unconcernedly as though they
were out in the Congo, are trotting down the middle of the
street with great bags of coffee balanced on their heads, all
chanting in perfect rhythm a native African air, accompanied
by the clang of a kind of triangle which is beaten with a rail-
road spike.

Another common sight is a crowd of barefoot women,
sitting on a great pile of coffee, assorting by hand the various
qualities, while their sisters swarm back and forth, always
apparently in a high dudgeon quarrelling with their neigh-
bors, as they distribute, with the strength of Amazons, the
big bags of coffee to their proper places.

The foreigners in Port-au-Prince are made up mainly of
Americans, French, Syrians and English negroes from the

66

other West Indies. There are about a thousand Americans,
practically all of whom belong to the United States Navy or
Marine Corps. There are hardly more than a baker's dozen
of American merchants, planters and sugar men but this num-
ber is destined to increase rapidly. There are some five
hundred Frenchmen. The Syrians are very prominent in com-
mercial lines. One of them who recently came to open busi-
ness, brought with him on the same boat a stock valued at
$80,000.

French is the commercial language but most of the whole-
salers speak English also. Those who deal with the low class
negroes must speak their Creole dialect as they cannot under-
stand French.

There are practically no factories in Port-au-Prince. The
coffee industry is the largest. An American company has re-
cently built a very large sugar mill just outside of the city.
The enterprise has failed up to the present time largely be-
cause they did not contract for a sufficient supply of cane to
keep the mill busy. They are now making provision for this
by buying large tracts of land which they will cultivate and
also by contracting with the natives for crops. Another im-
portant American firm, lately established to develop the castor
bean industry, having found this unprofitable, is now turning
to general agriculture. This firm has brought down a num-
ber of agricultural experts who are experimenting in the better-
ment of cotton and other crops. It was suggested that these
experts might be secured to help in any agricultural education
that the mission societies might develop.

Health conditions in Port-au-Prince are improving under
American direction. Housing conditions are very bad. Large
families live in very close quarters and at night they are ac-
customed, probably due to the long siege of revolutions which
made life unsafe after sundown, to close all the house tightly,
and go to bed very early, sleeping with practically no air.
This fact is given as the explanation for the large amount of
tuberculosis in the country. A great number of young men
come in from the country districts looking for political jobs
and experience much difficulty in finding lodgings. They gen-
erally must stay with relatives or friends and add one more
to the number of people already sleeping in the same room.
A Young Men's Christian Association with dormitory privi-
leges could do a splendid work with such young men, as also
with the students who come from the outside to the capital.

67

CHAPTER III
PROBLEMS OF AMERICAN OCCUPATION

THE first thing to do either in Haiti or Santo Doming
is to report to the local American officer in command.
The arrangements between our military forces and the
local authorities in the two countries is different, however, at
least in theory. In Santo Domingo there is no pretense of
federal government except by the American Military forces.
In Haiti there is a president, cabinet, and sometimes a Con-
gress, with governors and local officials, which function in
certain matters as long as they are willing to co-operate with
the American authorities. There is, then, a dual government
in Haiti, one the native government and the other the Amer-
ican Marines, headed by the General in command. Probably
a man of still more power is the Financial Adviser, an Amer-
ican, who has final authority over the various items of ex-
penditure by the national treasury. In matters like sanitation,
the United States Government details an officer from the
Navy or the Marine Corps to serve under the Haitian Gov-
ernment. The Gendarmerie, like the Guardia Nacional of
Santo Domingo is composed of native soldiers officered by
American marines, privates or sergeants, who have been de-
tailed by the Marine Corps for this work after they have stood
examination in elementary French and in Haitian law.
Marines are only stationed permanently in the larger towns,
but the gendarmes are found scattered all over the country,
as well as in all the cities. Where both forces are found their
barracks are in different parts of the town. As the officers
of the gendarmes are only enlisted men in the Marine Corps
and the private gendarmes are Haitians, there is naturally
little social relation between the two organizations.

The marine who becomes an officer in the gendarmerie finds
himself clothed with practically unlimited power, in the dis-
trict where he serves. He is the judge of practically all civil
and criminal cases, settling everything from a family fight to
a murder. He is the paymaster for all funds expended by the
national government, he is ex-officio director of the schools,
inasmuch as he pays the teachers. He controls the mayor
and city council, since they can spend no funds without his

68

O. K. As collector of taxes he exercises a strong influence on
all individuals of the community.

The fight being waged by the force of Marines and the
Gendarmerie for the extermination of the "cacos" or bandits
is growing more serious constantly. While we were not
molested on the main road, it was evident everywhere that
we were in a country where there was real war. Most of the
big posts were stripped of men except barely enough to do
necessary guard duty, the rest of them being out in the hills
after the bandits. These outlaws go in bands numbering from
twenty-five to two hundred generally. Not more than twenty
or thirty percent are armed and these are very poor shots, so
that there are few casualties among our men. They are now
making a systematic drive and closing in on the bandits and
in some battles from twenty-five to sixty are killed. It is the
hardest kind of work imaginable.

The bandits may be sighted on top of a hill, and by the
time our men hike to the spot their quarry will have crossed
over to the next hill top and will holloa across making fun
of the slow Americanos. There is nothing to do but keep on
chasing them until by strategy or by forced marches they
are within gunshot. The range needs to be close, as the "cacos"
are little affected by a wound that would put an ordinary man
out of business. I saw one man who had been accidentally
shot and brought into the fort where a gendarme was probing
for the bullet with what looked to me like a needle used to sew
up potato sacks. The blood was flowing profusely as the
probe went here and there, but the man lay as still as though
absolutely nothing was going on. After seeing that, I was
more ready to believe the stories of how they kept on coming
after they had been shot in a way that would be fatal to an
ordinary man.

One's heart goes out toward our boys who are engaged in
this terrible business. Often their forced marches without food
last for many long hours and even days. Months are spent
out in the wild country without seeing any civilized life what-
ever, without any amusements, without even a newspaper or
magazine. Even in smaller towns on the main road of travel
we found posts where the men had not seen a newspaper f'»r
four months, and had no means of recreation whatever. Chap-
lain Truitt is working very hard on this matter now, however,
and has just succeeded in getting a motion picture machine
sent way up into the hills in the interior near the Dominican
border where the fighting is the worst and living conditions
for a civilized man almost unbearable.

The men out on the field agree that the situation is getting
worse rather than better. They only see an end to it when
all the "Cacos" shall have been exterminated. But when will
this be accomplished? In the killing of the present crop, others
are grown. While Haiti has always had its professional re-
volutionists and country bands who live by robbery, there
seems to be a general agreement that the present acute trouble
was developed by the American officers of the gendarmerie
enforcing too rigidly an old law requiring men to work the
roads four days a month. This has now been abandoned, and
all road workers are paid a gourde (20 cents gold) a day for
their work. But the opposition to government has been aug-
mented to such an extent that the American authorities see
no way of settling it except by the sword. In the short time
I was in the country, I was not able to form a proper judg-
ment as to whether there was any particular political program
of opposition to the Americans that inspired the "Cacos," or
whether they were simply a lot of bandits who preferred to
live by pillage rather than by work.

It is with great hesitancy that one even seemingly passes
criticism on our American Marines. No man knows but that
he might act in the same way under similar conditions. It is
the machine, not the man, that is to blame. From the military
standpoint, it is natural to regard all life as cheap ; especially
when stationed in a country where people are little above the
animal, where you are hated and your life is sought, if not
by all, at least by organized bands who compel sleeping with
your hand on your gun, and where if ever caught, you know
you will be subject to unmentionable torture before you meet
a horrible death. Under such conditions, it is easy to live up
to the rule of "take no prisoners" and to have small respect
for the rights and property of those who have no respect for
you and little for themselves. Military life, moreover, does
not lend itself to civil reforms, for it is based on caste. Dis-
cipline is only maintained by obeying without question your
superior. The private is subject to the ire of the sergeant,
the sergeant to the lieutenant, the lieutenant to the captain,
the captain to the major, and so on. And very likely the ire
of all is visited on the civilian. As a young editor, who had
to take his paper to the military authorities for their censor-
ship before it was published, said: "We want a civil govern-
ment, so we can approach them. You go to see one of the mili-
tary authorities. You know he is a very fine man. But he has
a guard at his door, who unceremoniously and profanely tells
you to 'get out, and do it quick !' " Is it any wonder that the

70

bandit situation doesn't get better under such treatment or
that the American soldier acts as he does, under the condi-
tions described, when he has never had any training for ad-
ministrative or democratizing work?

The same thing applies to moral life. Who will throw the
first stone at a man who is compelled to live away from all
that is pure and noble, without religious or moral influences
of any kind, without books or recreation often, without even
a base ball or a victrola, in the midst of the vilest native life,
where men have little virtue and women small sense of shame?
The whole thing is absolutely unnatural, li necessary for a
few months under extraordinary conditions, it should certainly
not be permitted through the years that men cannot get
into a pure atmosphere or see good women of their own race
or hear a moral exhortation for two or three years, as happens
with some of our men here.

The best of the officers in Haiti realize that the situation
is not satisfactory, and are doing what they can to correct it.
"So far we have done little for Haiti except stop the graft.
And that has not made the people like us. It is time we were
doing some constructive service for these people. I would
like to see you begin the program of schools and hospitals
you have outlined." Thus spoke the commander of the Amer-
ican Marines in Haiti. Of course he did not mean that literally
because already much lias been accomplished in the building
of roads, the sanitation of the cities, the improvement of the
postal service and other public activities. The national debt,
which constantly threatened the independant life of the nation,
is being gradually liquidated, and revolution, that stifled all
economic development, has been suppressed. If our govern-
ment is to go forward satisfactorily with the tremendous job
it has, there must be the most careful selection of the men
who are sent to deal with these people. When we began our
work in the Philippines we sent a man like Mr. Tat't to begin
the development of the people into a democracy. He found
much the same conditions as now exist in Haiti. When he
began to talk about "our little brown brother," it took strong
measures to stop the sarcasm of the soldiers who sang:

"He may be a brother of William II. T.
But he ain't no kin to me."

But the new spirit prevailed, and today the development of
the Filipino toward democracy is the pride of every Amer-
ican. The job in Haiti is a harder one. but it can be done by
a combination of American administrators of the highest type
and the schools and churches of American Christianity.

71

CHAPTER IV
COMMERCE AND NATURAL RESOURCES

THE natural resources of Haiti are of inestimable value
and their development has only begun. Her riches lie
almost entirely in her remarkable soil. She has only
10,200 square miles of territory and is now supporting a popula-
tion of over two millions, an average of about 200 to the square
mile. The most important commercial production is coffee,
of which 78,572,559 pounds were exported in 1914.

Under a stable government Haiti is bound to attract in-
vestors and in a very little time is destined to become an im-
portant factor in the economic life of the American Mediter-
ranean.

The country is rich with the wealth of the tropics. Coal
and other mineral riches are waiting to be developed. Forests
of valuable woods are easily accessible from the railroads
planned.

The chief articles of export are coffee, cotton, cocoa, log-
wood, lignum vitae, mahogany and honey with coffee by far
the largest; tortoise-shells, sisal, cocoanuts and sponges find
an export market, but the trade is not large. Castor beans
have come into prominence during the past year or more
owing chiefly to a contract placed by the U. S. Government
for these, the oil of which was urgently wanted for use in
aeroplanes.

Considerable areas were put under cultivation by the con-
tractors here but it appears doubtful whether early anticipa-
tions were realized. This plant seems to conform to some of
those freaks of nature which rebel against things usual and
which prefer to isolate themselves, growing best where un-
attended and, frequently, where least expected, from which
it would appear that the enforced cultivation of the castor
bean must necessarily be speculative, so far as production is
concerned.

While the country is distinctly agricultural its soil has
not yet been even scratched and faith in nature has hitherto
been preferred to work of man, indeed so great is its fertility
no real cultivation has been found essential and this fact has,
of course, had its effect upon the character of the people. The
working class is poor, the ordinary laborer exceedingly so,

72

and he lives chiefly upon sugar cane with rice and vegetables
and little meat. His wage is 20 cents per day in those towns
where the rate of pay can be said to be fixed at all. Owing
to the difficulties of subsisting the laborer has sought other
fields and there has been a large exodus to Cuba where the
rate of wages is 5 to 6 times greater. But as elsewhere through-
out the world the war has had its marked effect upon Haiti
and signs are not lacking that not only agriculturally is this
country likely to progress, and to progress rapidly, from now
on and to take its natural place in the world's markets as an
important source of supply.

At all the ports of Haiti, except Port-au-Prince, steamers
find no wharf to which to come and goods are lightered ; the
handling is crude. Shipping is on the increase and already
there have been several sailings from Port-au-Prince and other
ports direct to Havre and one to Liverpool. Of industrial
factories in the island there are but few, the principal being
the sugar factory, several tanneries, an oil crushing plant,
ice factories and two tobacco factories the larger of which
is situated in Port-au-Prince and is managed by two Amer-
icans. While the manufacture of rum amounts in the
aggregate to an industry of importance there is no one large
plant, but the work is carried on everywhere throughout the
country.

Cotton ginning is an industry about to be carried on here
on quite a large scale to which end American capital has been
freely invested, and while small plants have long existed,
some modern machinery run on the latest principles is about
to be installed.

Of minerals there is said to be gold in paying quantities
in at least one section; there are copper mines northwi
Port-au-Prince, and iron exists still further north, mar the
northern coast.

The total foreign commerce of Haiti was approximately
$18,000,000 in 1915. Imports and exports by countries of origin
or destination are shown below for several years:

IMPORTS

Countries 1911 1912 1913 1914 1915

United States $5,790,203 $7,302,484 $5.90S.K.r,6 $6,181,088 $3.<;08.A73

United Kingdom 886.517 781.208 895,818 400, Si 1 W

France 331.849 1.050,418 817.335 345,190 187. 779

Germany 439.732 484.915 535.513 888,004 20.509

Other Countries 499,816 277,534 211.972 138.099 53.574

EXPORTS (Estimated)

United States $1,000,000 $1,100,000 $1,000,000 $1,171,649 $1,494,927

United Kingdom 1,200,000 1.300.000 800.000 1.000,000 1.000. 000

France 7,500,000 8.500,000 5.000.000 3,500.000 5,000.000

Germany 5,400,000 6,100,000 4,200,000 3,000,000 100,000

73

CHAPTER V
EDUCATION AND SANITATION

OF COURSE, Port-au-Prince is the chief educational center
of the country, if one might use such a term in referring
to a country where education is so limited. The follow-
ing are the principal schools above the grammar grades: the
national lycee, the Government high school where students
are prepared for the medical and law schools ; two Catholic
lycees; a private, industrial and engineering school, receiving
a government subsidy; and a commercial school conducted by
a Jamaican negro.

The two Catholic schools are much the best. One, con-
ducted by the Brothers of St. Louis, is a splendid institution
with some 700 students enrolled, running all the way from
the primary up through the high school grades. Some 30
brothers from France and Canada give themselves to teach-
ing in this school. The property is well kept up and the chil-
dren are clean and well behaved.

In sharp contrast is the government lycee, which is about
as run down .at the heel as any institution I have ever seen.
The building is dilapidated and out of repair. A few pupils
sit on straight-backed benches, around a rough board table,
listening to a professor explain a problem in calculus or dis-
sertate on a Greek verb, using a worn-out blackboard on which
the writing is scarcely visible. The dormitory and dining
room, where some 20 students from outside of the city, are
boarded, are primitive beyond description. We found one of
the professors absent, the explanation being that he had a
case to plead in court that day. All of the professors, of course,
are occupied in other things and only come to the institution
to give their lectures at certain hours. Two of the professors
have opened a private school right in the institution itself,
where they charge tuition to coach the youngsters in prep-
aration for entrance into the lycee. The patio has a large
slice taken out of it by a citizen who was a power in one of
the political regimes and extended his residence property back
into the patio and built a wall around it.

74

The so-called Medical and Law Schools serve to support
a few people and to announce to the world that such institu-
tions exist. There are brilliant lawyers and physicians in
Port-au-Prince but they have taken their courses in Paris.

In fact, the brilliancy of the cultured classes is most re-
markable, equalling such circles in European capitals. Some
of the most intellectual of foreign ministers sent to Washington
have been Haitians. One seldom meets finer gentlemen than
the Minister of Education and some other present government
officials that I met in Port-au-Prince.

The Mechanical High School, while it has very little equip-
ment, is doing some good, especially since some of the Amer-
ican engineers from the Navy have been lending their assist-
ance as professors.

The small commercial school referred to is conducted by
a Jamaican and its courses are simple and limited. It is not
necessary to point out what great need there is for the develop-
ment of schools along every line especially commercial and
vocational. The average wage is very low, but there is a large
demand for skilled people. Ordinarily typists would get about
fifteen dollars a month, yet a competent stenographer could
command practically the same salary as in New York.

It seems strange that in making the convention with Haiti
nothing was included about education. The United States
has authority to appoint officials who are to superintend the
development of roads and other improvements, sanitation,
the post office system and other departments, but nothing
whatever is said in the convention concerning education.
Some two years ago the general in command asked the author-
ities in Washington to send an American to Haiti as super-
intendent of public instruction. A superintendent of coun-
ty schools in Louisiana, who spoke splendid French, was ap-
pointed. When he arrived in Port-au-Prince he found j
difficulty in having himself recognized and while he has been
working hard for the last two years he is greatly handicapped
because of his lack of authority. He can make any sue
tions to the Minister of Education concerning changes in an
individual school or in the whole system but he has no author-
ity to see that these suggestions are carried out. His splendid
report, submitted to the Minister of Education for the last
year, reviews the work accomplished and points out the ni
sity of a reform program along the following lin

First, construction of school buildings; second, the forma-
tion of a better corps of teachers ; third, the radical transforma-
tion of the system of inspection; fourth, the Fevision of the

75

program of study and the preparation of a pedagogical guide
for the teachers. The latter he has already carried out him-
self and now the teachers have a very full and specific direc-
tion, not only as to what they are to teach, but how they are
to teach it. In the matter of school building he has suggested
certain standard plans along the lines of those developed at
the Philippines or in Porto Rico. For the development of a
better class of teachers he stresses the necessity of a raise in
salary. The teachers in the country districts of Haiti get an
average salary of $4 a month. There is spent altogether for
country schools in this country, where the population of two
million and a half is almost entirely rural, the sum of 3,000
dollars a month, for salaries of rural teachers. Salaries for
all of the teachers in Haiti amount to $9,197 per month. The
teaching forces are to be improved also by the provision of
circulating libraries and by the organization of teachers' insti-
tutes and normal schools.

In a country where education is so backward and teachers
are so poorly prepared, school inspection is one of the most
important things. The Superintendent of Education has ask-
ed for the appointment of 26 North-American inspectors who
shall be paid at the rate of $1800 to $2400 a year. He believes
that if he can secure the appointment of these, that the whole
system can be checked up and gradually improved ; other-
wise, it seems to him quite hopeless.

The whole annual budget for education in Haiti was last
year $340,000. Cuba, with the same number of people spent
$7,000,000; Porto Rico with half the number about $4,000,000
and even Santo Domingo its next door neighbor, with a third
of the population, will spend this year, under the American
Colonel of the Marines who directs her education, $1,500,000.
This story would not be nearly so bad if this $340,000 were
spent in the right way. A large part of it heretofore has been
wasted on the political army. Many of the teachers who have
been appointed in the smaller towns never go to the school
and indeed often there is not even a school house. The Captain
of the Gendarmerie told me of a woman coming in to draw
her pay as school marm. When he gave her the receipt, she
signed by a cross. He asked her to write her name. She said
she did not know how to write. When reproached for this she
said that she was the teacher of reading not of writing. The
American Superintendent found in Port-au-Prince that many
of the schools had directors who were getting large salaries
and large rent allowances. They had a young girl as teacher,
who was put off in a dark room of the director's residence

76

where the school was conducted, the only responsibility of the
director being to supply the room and draw the salary. Some-
times there were two such schools in the same block. In the
first three months of the American Superintendent's adminis-
tration he suppressed 66 of these schools and the position of
director has been done away with entirely. Every teacher is
required to be responsible for 35 pupils. Outside of the prin-
cipal cities, Port-au-Prince, Cap Haitien, Gonaives, St. Marc,
Jacmel, and Aux Cayes, Mr. Bourgeois estimates that there
is about only one fifth of one per cent of the population who
are literate. He says that the children in the schools are
taught entirely by the memory method. While they learn to
read in school, returning home to a complete dearth of liter-
ature, they very soon forget.

Educational leaders claim that great difficulty is found in
securing funds for any kind of reform in the school. The
authorities seem to approve appropriations for roads, sanita-
tion or material improvement much more quickly than they
will for education.

The one hospital in Port-au-Prince is called "The Central
Hospital" and had, at the time of my visit, 330 patients.
Some of them were still sleeping on the floor, but the author-
ities were rejoicing in the fact that they had just received
a number of new beds from the United States. The hos-
pital is in charge of physicians and nurses allocated, as it
were, by the United States Government to this special service.
Besides the regular patients they have from 25 to 100 in at-
tendance at the free clinic. Syphilis is the most common dis-
ease and a visit to the ward where the worst cases are con-
fined is as horrible an experience as one could imagine. Most
of the deformities seen on the street are said by physicians to
be a result of venereal diseases, and I heard no estimate of the
population having these diseases below eighty-five per cent,
some physicians claiming that there were few people free
from them on the island. Tuberculosis is the next must com-
mon disease. Malaria is also quite prevalent.

A Nurses' School, presided over by American nurses, has
recently been established in connection with the hospital.
They are doing what they can to instill into the Haitian girls
the scientific care of the sick and the moral ideals of the pro-
fession but they find their work very difficult.

Supplies for the Central Hospital are very hard to
secure. Sometimes the authorities have had to wait as long
as six months for them and of course the hospitals in the out-
lying towns find still more difficulty. Such hospitals are con-

77"

ducted in Cap Haiticn, St. Marc, Gonaives and Jacmcl. Five
American physicians, besides the Chief of Sanitation of Haiti
are assigned to sanitary duties in Haiti.

The nurses so far have largely been Sisters of Charity.
The Mother Superior of the hospital was called upon not long
ago in regard to the action of one of the sisters, who took a
Bible away from a patient and burned it. She seemed a little
excited in having to appear before the American officers to
answer such a charge, but she assured them that the sister
only burnt the Bible because she believed she was doing the
will of God.

The physician in charge of the Central Hospital said that
one of the troubles with the people of Haiti was that they
did not get enough to eat. He thought it was not at all true
that the people in a tropical country of that kind were able
to secure sufficient nourishment simply by depending on the
plentiful fruit found everywhere. "Most of these people
haven't had a full stomach since their birth. I know of no
country where the need of the people for economic assistance
and medical treatment is so great. There are all kinds of
diseased and needy people. Four hundred lepers wander
around the streets or are driven out into the country roads
where they beg in a pitiful way, as they did in old Bible days.
Some come to the hospital, but we cannot keep them here.

There is a proposal to establish a leper colony on a near-by
island. The initial cost of this would be one hundred thous-
and dollars and we have no way of getting this money. We
find a good deal of difficulty in enforcing sanitary regulations
in the cities, such as rules for having no standing water, keep-
ing no animals within the city limits, cleaning out-houses and
stopping the waste of water. The Haitian has no idea of
stopping the water in the pipes from running. If we had ten
times the supply that the city now has we would be short of
water because nearly every hydrant in the city is leaking and
people pay no attention to shutting them off." The annual
appropriation for the entire Republic for sanitation is $76,000.

78

CHAPTER VI
THE PEOPLE

IT is impossible to find out just how far the Voodoo wor-
ship still exists. No white man has ever been allowed to

witness the Voodoo ceremonies and since the Americans
entered the country they have done all in their power to pro-
hibit it entirely. The Gendarmes will tell you however that
it still exists in spite of their vigilance. The ceremony i<
presided over by a native priest or what would be called in
Africa a "witch doctor." A ceremony very much like the Mass
is used at the beginning. Afterward the child which is to be
sacrificed, is brought in and at a certain stage it is killed, it-
heart being taken out and the participants drinking of its blood.
The more recent form of the ceremony substitutes a goat for
a child. Some times the child is used up till the critical time
for it to be sacrificed and then the goat is substituted. It is
said that the result of Voodoo worship is plainly registered
on the faces of those who participate in it, making them look
like devils.

It is not hard to believe anything that one is told about
the degredation of the country people. They are unmoral
rather than immoral as they seem to have no conception of
any high standards of life. An American friend had a boy
and a girl working for him, brother and sister by the same
mother but having different fathers. The father of one of
them had twenty-five children. Such instances are not un-
common.

When the American military force came into Haiti there
was one plow in the republic which is now exhibited proudly
in Cap Haitien. On all of the coast of Haiti there arc only
two lighthouses.

The people that we met on the road seemed to be very
much frightened at our automobile, probably not because they
had not seen these machines before but because the drivers
are often so careless of the people's safety that they run them
down without any excuse. We found them greatly ex< |
as our machine approached. It was most amusing to see two
or three of them get at the head and tail of a donkey to push

79

and pull him on to the side of the road in order to let us pass.
They seemed to be profoundly grateful to us when we stopped
and gave them a chance to get their animals out of the way.

The American Director of the Postal Service gave me some
interesting information about the development of his depart-
ment. He dropped over fifty per cent of the employees the
first few months he took charge. He found that many of the
postmasters were not able to read and write. They would let
the few literate of the community come in and look over the
mail and take what they desired. Oftentimes they were re-
ceiving considerable sums for the delivery of mail to the houses
in these small towns. The method used was to employ a boy
of 10 or 12 years of age, who himself generally was unable
to read, and arrange the letters in order between his fingers
and let him go from house to house to deliver them. About
three times as many employees were used in the offices as
were needed. In Port-au-Prince the force has been reduced
from 30 to 15, and in other places in proportion.

The mail was being sent, for instance, from Port-au-Prince
to St. Marc once a week and then by courier, instead of using
the railroad (one of the tw^o on the island). The train left
Saturday afternoon, and made the trip of 66 miles in about
four hours. The courier left Saturday night and would get
there the next day. When the American proposed to send
the mail by train the postmaster told him that the people would
not stand for it. When this opposition was overcome, then he
was told that the railroad would not carry it. He found that
the railroad was bound by its contract to carry all mail free
but the difficulty was that the postmaster was getting 150
gourdes a month for the courier, and it only cost him 30 per
month for the work. The more than 2,000,000 inhabitants
of Haiti mail about a million letters and postcards during the
whole year. That is less than the number dropped in the
mail boxes in New York City any business day between 5
and 7 in the afternoon.

Practically the only uplifting moral and spiritual in-
fluences of the community are the masses held in the
Catholic churches and the preaching service in the Pro-
testant churches. The glamor, the glitter of the tinsel, the
adoration of the saints, or the congregational singing of the
Protestants, appeal alike to the volatile and superstitious popu-
lation. The churches seem to be well filled, but religion and
morality have little relationship. I was in the city on Corpus
Christi day. The President of the Republic and the diplomatic
corps, including the representative from the American military

80

force, attended mass in the Cathedral. A procession preceded
the event. The Priests, the nuns, the children of the Catholic
schools and the members of the various orders formed a long
line of march. An effigy of the body of Christ was taken
around the streets, and at various different corners, different
ceremonies were held in the open. The President was accom-
panied by his special military aid appointed from the Marine
Corps and escorted by a large number of cavalry and members
of the gendarmerie. When the priest, who was in control of
the procession, saw that I was taking some pictures, he kindly
had the whole procession stop and told me that he would
arrange them in any way that I directed in order that I might
have a good picture.

The large Cathedral, which is a very beautiful building, was
crowded to the doors during the mass. Around me were kneel-
ing several poor African women who evidently were just as
superstitious and ignorant in their worship of the cross and
the candle which they held in their hands, as they could have
been adoring fetiches in the forests of Africa. It was evident
that little more than the name of their deity had been changed
and that they were just about one stage from Voodooism.

All of the priests of Haiti are Frenchmen who have been
educated in a seminary in France, which is sustained by the
Haitian government. They are undoubtedly of much higher
character than the priests in most of the other Latin American
countries. I heard no stories of their abuses, such as are com-
mon regarding the priests in Santo Domingo. My visit to
the St. Louis School, conducted by the brothers, made me feel
that those men were doing a real piece of service, giving their
lives in an unselfish way and living under conditions which
were so repulsive to men of sentiment and culture that only
a deeply religious motive would bring them to submit to it.

When asked about the bringing of native Haitians into
their order they explained that they had tried the experiment
but that it had been almost universally unsatisfactory. They
now had only two native men in the brotherhood. The Haitians
have never proven their ability to maintain the standards of
morality required. When they are sent to France they will
live there as Frenchmen and maintain a high standard of char-
acter but as soon as they return to their native haunts they
recede to the old life. When I asked the brothers for their
opinion of our appointing negroes of the United States to
positions in the schools we propose to open in Haiti they were
very decided in their conviction that white men should always

SI

he kept as directors of the schools. The Archbishop of Santo
Domingo gave me the same advice.

The national budget provides for a total of $65,736, to be
expended by the Minister of Religion ; of that about $1680 goes
to a subvention for Protestant worship; about $360 goes to
the Society for the distribution of Bibles and religious books
and $500 gold a month, goes to the maintenance of the semi-
nary for priests in France.

One authority says concerning religious conditions :

"Nominally these people are Roman Catholic which is the
state religion. About one third of all the people attend church,
more or less. Another third attend once a year. The re-
mainder never enter a church door. The intellectuals have
completely broken with the 'church' and are openly atheistic
and agnostic.

"Beneath this veneer of Catholicism lies a deep and dark
strain of primitive vodouism which occasionally comes to the
surface in furtive efforts to maintain the old superstitions.

"Underfed, untaught, oppressed and degraded by a super-
stition the Haytian has never had a chance. If he is to cease
to be a beggar at the door of the western world, he must be
given an interpretation of Christianity of a different char-
acter. In the city of Port-au-Prince stands a cathedral costing
$400,000, built by government taxes of the necessities of the
poor people. All about the church door congregate the most
wretched beggars of the tropics, and in front of the great
temple sprawls the open air market with five thousand of the
wretched, hungry, filthy creatures who barter and haggle over
a day 'business' representing thirteen cents. Most of the
churches on the island have been built by government ap-
propriations, heavy percentages of which were paid over to
the legislators who voted for the subsidies."

An American merchant on the Island, who has also spent
some time in Africa, kindly prepared an extensive memorandum
for me, from which I quote without necessarily endorsing all
his positions.

"There is a striking similarity (with differences) in the problem
which is facing the perhaps fourteen million negroes of the United
States and the two million of Haiti. One great difference is that in
Haiti the negroes made themselves citizens of their own republic,
under rulers of their own color, while in the United States they were
presented, unasked, with citizenship in a republic of the white race.

"The negroes of both Republics were slaves for many years, losing
their own native religion, language, and customs, the Haitians acquir-
ing a new patois (Creole) of limited capacity, and unsuitable for
written records. Those who have only this patois (and these con-
stitute the great majority of the people — the peasants and laborers)

82

can take little or no part — no intelligent part in a government, even
though called a Republic, whose official language is French, which
they can neither understand, if spoken, nor read.

"These negroes of the two republics were taken by force from
Africa to a strange country, given a new language, a new form of
government and new laws. They were compelled to labor instead of
living their customary life of ease and comfort. They are now facing
a problem for which their heredity has in no wise prepared them and
it is only by environment that they may hope to win their way to a
higher place.

"White Americans or Europeans who have lived here longest,
even ten years, although having come with the expectation that the
negro race would be able to develop into a self-governing, civilized
community, have come to the conclusion that the negro, up to the
present, has not shown sufficient capacity for leadership to make this
possible. The conclusion is that he needs to be led. Many have
sufficient intelligence to do excellent work under efficient leaders
who will wisely and without causing too much friction, direct their
efforts into the proper channels and then see that they keep to those
channels.

"This is evident in Haiti in military as well as in civil life.
Gendarmes under a white officer do good work. Without a white man
in charge, they are almost useless for tasks which require courage
or initiative. They simply have not reached that stage of develop-
ment where they can stand alone or do a new thing. This is true
in business and in religious work. In many cases, some Haitian with
much white blood in him would make a good leader if the common
people would trust him and have faith in him — but it is the white
man whom they trust and follow and believe in, although they often
refuse to admit it.

"Now, there are perhaps two main reasons why the white man —
the American — should do something to solve the negro problem.
The one is the altruistic reason of interest in the welfare of the
negro race. The other pertains to our own safety and comfort in
life.

"This problem of how best to produce the increasing volume of
tropical products which civilization requires and demands is inti-
mately bound up with the colored population of the tropics.

"These colored and backward peoples who dwell in the warmer
parts of the earth furnish practically all of the labor for producing
sugar, coffee, cocoa, rubber, cocoanuts, cotton, and many cabinet and
dye woods. Civilization as represented by the white races requires
every year a greatly increased volume of these products, and the dark-
skinned man — in spite of the fact that he has no desire to do so —
is called upon to furnish a correspondingly increased supply of labor.

"Haiti produces or can produce great quantities of all these
products so urgently wanted by civilization, but the vast majority of
her people are of pure or of nearly pure negro blood and have little
or no desire to live otherwise than as they have lived for ages.

"There is a smaller class of those who have inherited more or
less white blood and who have consequently more or less of the
white man's characteristics. These people, even more than the pure
whites, desire to exploit and to live off the labor of the peasantry.
They desire to be, and are, the employers of labor, managers, and
business men. They expect to be the rulers of the country and to
manage its finances to their own satisfaction.

83

"There is consequent enmity between these two classes and there
is no greater race prejudice between the white and black races than
there is between the colored and black people of Haiti.

"Yet, it seems to be the case that it is among this higher class of
Haitians that there is a promising field for the training of children
who will do the work of the future. In contrast with the peasantry,
these high-class Haitians are a fine lot of people. They dress well,
often paying too much attention to dress. They have good houses
and some are very wealthy. They live well and are well educated,
and are often clever and intelligent. Many of them are light-colored,
especially in some towns, many being no darker than most Spanish
or other Mediterranean people.

"The most of these light-colored people are of French descent
with, later, some German blood mixed in, and there is now growing
up another lot of children of American blood, the off-spring, mostly,
of the Marines. It is not uncommon for a woman to show to her
friends, proudly, the very light-colored child of her daughter — proud
of it because it is comparatively white, even though illegitimate.

"These half-blood American children now growing up, or others
of similar class, who may very likely inherit considerable ability, will,
naturally, as they mature, become leaders, either for good or ill,
among these people, depending largely on the training they receive.
They are nearly all in the towns and can be reached by a few good
training schools in the centers of population. They should be taught
English as well as French and should have a business and industrial
training to fit them for the place they will occupy in the future.

"Even now, English-speaking youth have preference when situa-
tions are open in business houses, and this tendency is bound to
increase. If there can be a body of young people, growing up, trained
not alone in Haitian ways but having an international feeling, and if
they can be trained to become, many of them, teachers and leaders
of the peasantry, instead of, as most of this class at the present time,
having no other interest in the lower class than to exploit them,
there should be light ahead.

"It will be in the new generations of this class of mixed blood that
good work for the future of the country can be done rather than
among the older people who are, in many cases, dissatisfied and will
remain so always.

"There are abuses of military authority, perhaps most often by
the native police (gendarmes) which it seems impossible to ade-
quately correct or to prevent with only a military government on
the island. These abuses of authority working hardship on some
native and making a life-long enemy, perhaps a bandit, of him, again
create more friction, the need to use more military force and the
resulting consequence of more abuses or supposed abuses. Not until
there is here some civil authority, supported of course, by the military,
something similar to what was successful in the Philippines, can we
hope for peace in Haiti, or that the people will understand what we
wish to do and will become contented.

"Among Haitians there has been little united effort for any length
of time. Somebody thinks he is being 'done' or sees a chance to 'do'
someone else, and any contract, personal or civic, goes by the board.
This inability in the upper classes to get together and to continue
working in harmony, together with the desire of this class to benefit
by the low estate of the peasants promises very little advance for
Haiti as a country, by the efforts of its own people.

84

"These peasant people of Haiti are not lazy or idle, but they are
a poor, poor people, who would, however, with proper training, pro
duce much larger quantities of the products which the island will
grow and which the world desires, without exerting themselves un-
duly and without being unjustly exploited. They simply need to
have implanted in them the desire for some of the primary and all
important things which make for civilization, and to be taught how
most easily to secure these things. It is largely the enjoyment of
luxuries which differentiates the civilized man from the savage.

"What can be expected of peasant people such as these, who are
quite content to live in their filthy surroundings — huts (as in Africa)
made of sticks and twigs and plastered with mud and with a mud
floor — a floor simply of earth and not of a compound mixture which
hardens, such as many Africans use — a floor that in dry weather may
not be utterly objectionable but that in wet weather, by reason of
poor drainage and leaky thatch roofs, becomes muddy and with pools
of water on it through which pigs and chickens and dogs, as well as
human beings, splash as they move about. There are many places in
Africa where the door-sill is raised a foot or more above the floor
level in order to keep out the pigs and to keep the babies in, but that
is not common here, and babies are often little, if any, cleaner than
the pigs, especially if the babies have been burdened with some sort
of clothing — if the clothing becomes too wet or dirty the babies are
often allowed to play comfortably without any — but as a rule these
people are obsessed with the idea of clothing, which is one of the
obvious results of contact with civilization. They wear clothing, dirty
clothing, without adequate knowledge of its necessity or use and
care. Those who have seen both, know that these peasant people
are more unclean and filthy, fuller of vice and disease, less amenable
to rule and discipline than their African progenitors.

"Assuredly, there should be a system of universal primary schools
as these people can learn the primary things and an occasional indi-
vidual is able to go much higher. English is without doubt the future
language of the island and there should be a primary education and
civilization in English. In every community there should be a school
with other than Haitian teachers — preferably a husband and wife —
where primary subjects would be taught in English; where board or
cement floors in houses would be in use; where cleanliness and the
proper wearing of clothes might be taught and required; in short.
where all the primary and elementary things of civilization might he
taught and impressed on the people by precept and example; where
they could come into actual contact with these things, which would
gradually become the things they want and which would he required
of them, perhaps by custom; if not by custom, then by law.

"The soil is rich; the climate is good; the country is thickly
populated and could furnish much willing labor if properly trained
and not unjustly exploited, and it is very mar to the United St •

"We, the people of the United States, full of ideals, have taken
hold here, and if we are to make a success of our undertaking we
ought to give ourselves the best possible chance to do our work well,

"At least, we can bring about peaceful conditions and a greater
production of the things the world needs. It is a problem which
many young Americans would find interesting and to which they
could devote their best energies with a fair expectation of accom-
plishing much good and of civilizing what is now a very dark spot
on the horizon of the United States."

85

CHAPTER VII
MISSIONS IN HAITI

NATURALLY, Port-au-Prince has more Protestant work
than any other city. There are three churches here.
The three denominations having work in different parts
of the republic, the Episcopalians, the Baptists and the
Wesleyan Methodists, are all located here. There is also an
African Methodist Episcopal church in the capital, but they
have no work outside.

Bishop C. B. Colmore, who recently took charge of the
Episcopal work in Haiti, says, concerning the appeal of that
country :

"Here is a magnificent opportunity for the Church to interpret to
these people the true spirit of democracy; to show them that a nation
can go to the assistance of another without hope of selfish gain; that
Christianity is broader and nobler than selfishness, and that brotherly
service can be international. The lesson is sure to have its influence
on the people themselves if the Church is faithful in presenting it.
For the difficulty lies just in the path in which the Church can be
of service. We have said that to other nations Haiti's failure has been
a financial one, but the real trouble deep down under the foundations
is a moral and spiritual one. All other failures of any people can be
traced to this in the end. Here we find the Church's opportunity in
Haiti.

"James Theodore Holly left New Haven, Connecticut, in 1861, and
took a considerable colony of colored people with him, establishing
the Church in Haiti. His work was successful and a good following
was built up among the people. He became the first bishop in 1874,
which office he occupied until his death in 1911. Bishop Holly's own
work was in the city of Port-au-Prince, where at different times
two large and handsome church buildings were constructed, both
of which were destroyed by fire. Holy Trinity Church is at the
present time using a temporary structure. Recently a large piece of
property has been purchased in the heart of the city, which is large
enough for the church, a school building, parish house and rector all
together. It is a splendid property, and we expect to rebuild the
church.

"Under Bishop Holly's direction work was carried on in different
parts of the country, of which there remains today work in five sec-
tions of the republic. Of these, the most interesting to me is that
section in the mountains of Leogane, part of the peninsula on the
south which runs out westward toward Cuba. Under the direct
ministrations of the Reverend Alexandre Battiste and his predecessor,
the Reverend J. J. Constant, a large body of Church people has been

86

built up. For upward of thirty years, Mr. Battiste has been faith-
fully caring for them and has their utmost confidence and love. Here
"voodooism," which is more or less prevalent throughout the country,
has its strongholds. This spirit-worship, so powerful in its influence
over the people, is a great system of graft in the hands of the high
priests, who play upon the credulity and the superstition of their
followers. Many and wonderful are the tales of human sacrifice,
raisings from the dead, cannibalism, etc., practised by these people,
and while there may be some room for dispute, I do not think there
is any truth in these extreme reports nowadays. However, the whole
system is a baneful one and should be eradicated from the lives of
the people. It is lowering and degrading, holding them back from
ideals and progress which will enable them to live better and freer
from the domination of useless fears and terrors. The whole thing
is against the law of the country, but force will never eradicate it.
Nothing but education can free them from fear. The love of God
must replace in their minds and hearts this senseless fear of the
"spirit" and his representative, the voodoo high priest, who still asserts
his influence.

"But the future of our work in educational lines in Haiti lies not
so much in the academic instruction as in the agricultural and in-
dustrial period. We must not be willing to build upon the sand of the
present customs and ideals which have failed in times past. We must
go to the very bottom of things and build up a solid basis and founda-
tion upon everlasting principles. We must teach them the value of
those things which will make them citizens useful to their country.
We should aim to produce good artisans, operatives and agricultur-
alists, men and women who will be able to show by their lives and
good examples, and by the productiveness of their work, that Chris-
tians will do their share of the work of the world."

Dr. Arthur Gray speaks along the same as follows :

"In such an environment our chiefest effort should be devoted to
the coming generation. One can always fill a church in those lands
if one has an attractive service. But full churches do not mean strong
churches. Strength only comes when the communicants have put
off idleness and irresponsibility and it is to the eradication of those
typical characteristics that I think we should address ourselves. What
is needed is that the next generation of Church people should be
industrious and ambitious, owners of their own homes, dominated by
a desire to make their and their neighbors' families centers of patri-
otism. The clergy and a few faithful parishioners exhibit these traits
today, but there must be many more like them. As Mr. Eduard Jones
said to me, mere education in the three Rs does not produce useful
citizens.

"All the people with whom I discussed this problem, from M.
Dartignave, the president, down, urged the necessity of trade-schools,
and I am confident that the one thing required to solve the problem
of the Port-au-Prince district is the boarding trade-school — schools
of this kind where boys and girls can be trained from their youth up
to love labor. The seed of the Gospel can not take root in people
who prefer idleness to industry or irresponsibility to the daily grind
of responsibility. And I don't see how the needed soil can be secured
without plowing and harrowing and fertilizing given in a trade-
school."

87

Iii Port-au-Prince, the Episcopalians have a church, in the
rear of which is a boys' school. They have also a girls' school.
They recently bought a large piece of ground in the heart of
the city, on which they expect to put a good school building.
This should certainly be done at the earliest possible moment.
The school now existing is no worse than other Haitian schools,
but it certainly could not be said to reflect credit upon those
who are responsible m for it. There are two ministers in the
capital, an American clergyman who is rector of the English-
speaking negro congregation, and a well-known Haitian,
educated in the United States, who has charge of the Haitian
congregation and is a noted orator in French. He has been
connected with the work for many years, and his children,
now grown, are teachers in the school. The next largest center
of the Episcopalians is in Aux Cayes. Altogether they report
26 churches served by 13 clergymen.

The Baptists have a small work in Port-au-Prince. Their
building is small, old and dilapidated. They have one work-
er, Rev. L. Hyppolite, who was converted in Brooklyn some
forty years ago. Their only other paid minister, Lherisson
Nossirehl, resides at Jacmel, which is the center of a remark-
able work. There are said to be twenty-seven stations and
four day schools, all of which are self-supporting, the preach-
ing being done by laymen. The only outside financial sup-
port received by the Baptists in Haiti is one thousand dollars
a year, which the Jamaican churches send, and about $1800 a
year contributed by the Llott-Carey Missionary Society of the
Negro Baptist Church in the United States.

Besides those in the capital and Jacmel there are Baptist
churches in Cap Haitien with a native pastor who studied at
Newton Seminary, the congregation at Le Tron with an
ordained native pastor, and at Rantique with a deacon in
charge, St. Rafael also in charge of a deacon, and St. Marc
with no pastor. Mr. Hyppolite claimed that the Baptists have
six thousand members in the Jacmel district and two thousand
in other parts of Haiti. As with the claim of the Rev. Mr.
Jones of Port-au-Prince that the Episcopalians had six thous-
and members, I was not able to get others to agree to this
figure.

The Baptists' work was first begun by Mr. Goode in the
early part of the 19th century. He got into politics however
and the work was practically abandoned until the negroes
from the United States, who were brought in as colonists by
President Boyer, gave new impetus to the work. The English
Baptists, largely through the work in Jamaica, have assisted

ss

in a small way from time to time. The only help that has
been received from the United States has been through the
Llott-Carey mission society so the churches have been largely
left to shift for themselves.

The father of the present Mr. Hyppolite was converted
from the Wesleyan church and sent his son, with the
of Bishop Holly of the Episcopal Church, to school in the
United States. The son returned in 1890 and has ever since
been the pastor of the church in the capital.

The African Methodist Episcopal Church of the United
States sustains a mission in the Capital with the Rev. S. E. C.
Lord as pastor and has a primary school, printing press and
a small industrial work. They are erecting a new church
building gradually with funds collected on the field.

The English Wesleyan Methodist Church has had work
in Haiti for about one hundred years. It grew very rapidly
but persecution drove away the workers who were absent for
about 25 years and then returned to continue it. The work
at Port-au-Prince became independent some ten years ago.
It is under the direction of Rev. A. F. P. Turnbull. This is
the largest work in the capital. It consists of Bird College,
has a good two-story brick building and enrolls 100 pupils,
about 25 of whom are boarders. It is the only Protestant
boarding school in Haiti. The Mission hall is built on the
property next the college and was intended for a boys' school
and will be so used when funds have been collected for the
building of the church. The boys school is now conducted
in a small building a few blocks away from the main property.
They have 65 pupils in this school and formerly had 200, when
they were receiving a subsidy from the government.

The church and chapel in St. Marc are under the direction
of this same independent movement. The Rev. Mr. Dcfue,
of the regular Wesleyan Mission, whose jurisdiction covers
both Haiti and Santo Domingo, lives at Cap Haitien. They
have organized churches, besides the one at Cap Haitien, at
Jeremie, and Aux Cayes.

The London Society sustains only two foreign workers on
the island, one at Cap Haitien and the other at Puerto Plata,
D. R. The rest of the churches are ministered to by volunteer
workers.

It can be seen that the number of Protestant workers in
the republic is very few indeed, and that they are almosl
entirely dependent upon their own resources. The Episcopal
Board is the only one that seems to be planning additional

89

expenditures or enlargement of their work. The workers
have been left for so long by themselves that they have very
little idea of any enlargements. Practically all of them ex-
pressed interest and promised co-operation in the program
which I outlined to them of probable activities of the churches
in the United States. While we should give these workers
credit for having labored patiently for many years with prac-
tically no encouragement, and do nothing that would seem to
discount their efforts, yet, in working out a new program, we
may consider the Republic as practically a virgin field.

After what has been said about the necessity of making the
religious program practical in Haiti, the advisability of de-
veloping a program along the following lines is very evident.
The program suggested for the next five years in Haiti calls
for the opening of work in three principal centers, from which
will be extended into the country districts the parts of those
activities which are best adapted to those regions.

In Port-au-Prince will be located an institutional plant,
with a chapel for an American church. Activities in this in-
stitutional church would be along the same lines as those
already mentioned for Santo Domingo City, with special
emphasis in the educational department on industrial work
for girls. An industrial boarding school for boys along the
lines of Hampton Institute, but more elemental, should be
built on the outskirts of the city. A training school for Chris-
tian workers should be placed on an adjoining campus. A
large hospital and nurses' training school would complete the
trio of activities which will serve the spiritual, mental, and
physical sides of these most needy peoples.

In Cap Haitien, in the northern part of the republic, the
three institutions such as are planned for Port-au-Prince, but
on a smaller scale, with the training school for Christian work-
ers omitted. In Gonaives, there should be an institutional
church and industrial boarding school for girls. Evangelistic
work developed in the centers named through the institutional
churches should be pushed out into the smaller towns and
country districts as rapidly as possible. There is great need
for a Young Men's Christian Association in the city of Port-
au-Prince, where work among government students and com-
munity recreation would be a prominent feature.

90

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1733. 4 v. 12°. illus. maps.
Courtney, W. S.: The Gold Fields of St. Domingo; with a Description

of the Agricultural, Commercial, and other Advantages of Domi-
nica. New York, A. P. Norton, 1860. 144 p. map. 12°.
De Moya, Casimiro N., "Bosquejo Historico del Descubrimiento y

Conquista de la Isla de Santo Domingo", Santo Domingo, 1913.
Deschamps, Enrique: La republica Dominicana. Directorio y guia

general. Por Enrique Deschamps. [Barcelona, Imprenta de la

Vda. de J. Cunill, 1907.] 383, 336, [120] p. illus. map. col. pi. 8°.
Dominican Republic. Ministerio de fomento y obras publicas: La

republica Dominicana. Santo Domingo, Imp. La cuna de America,

1906. 123 p. illus. 8°.
The Dominican republic. Published by the direction of the

Department of promotion and public works for the Jamestown

Ter-centennial exposition, 1907. [Washington, Byron S. Adams.]

Half title. 98 p. 8°.
Franklin, James: The present state of Hayti (Santo Domingo), with

remarks on its agriculture, commerce, laws, religion, finances, and

population, etc., etc. By James Franklin. London, John Murray,

1828. 411 (1) p. 12°.
Garcia, Jose Gabriel: Compendio de la historia de Santo Domingo.

2d ed. T. 1-3. Santo Domingo, Impr. de Garcia Hermanos, 1893,

1894, and 1900. 3v. 8°.
Compendio de la historia de Santo Domingo. Tomos 1-3. Terccra

edicion aumentada y correjida. Santo Domingo, Imprenta de

Garcia Hermanos, 1893 and 1896. 3 v. 8°.
Coincidencias hist6ricas. Escritas conforme a las tradiciones

populares. Santo Domingo, Imprenta Garcia Hermanos, 1891-92.

2 v. in 1. 46 and 22 p. 8°.
Memorias para la historia de Quisqucya 6 sea de la antigua parte

Espanola de Santo Domingo. T. 1. Santo Domingo, Impr. de

Garcia Hermanos, 1876. 260 (2) p. 8°.
Hazard, Samuel: Santo Domingo, past and present; with a glance at

Hayti. New York, Harper & Bros., 1873. xxix, 511 p. maps.

illus. 8°.
History of the island of St. Domingo from its first discovery by

Columbus to the present period. London, printed for Archibald

Constable & Co. by S. Curtis, 1818. xiv, 446 p. 8°.

PI

International Bureau of the American Republics: Santo Domingo (a
handbook). (Washington, Government Printing Office, 1895.) vi,
202 p. pi. map. 8°.

Jones, Chester Lloyd. "Caribbean Interests of the U ites."

New York, D. Appleton and Co. 1916. pp. 106-125.

Life in Santo Domingo: By a settler. With an introduction explana-
tory. New York, G. W. Carleton & Co., publishers, 1873. 308 p.
12°.

Merino (el Padre): Elementos de geografia fisica, politica y historica
de la republica Dominicana. 3d ed. Santo Domingo, Impr.
Garcia Hermanos, 1898. illus. 184 (3) p. 12°.

Monte y Tejada, Antonio del: Historia de Santo Domingo desde su
descubrimiento hasta nuestros dias. Tomo 1. Habana, Estable-
cimiento tipografico de Soler, 1853. xxi, 600 p. illus. 4°.

Ober, F. A. "Guide to the West Indies and Panama." New York,
1914.

Perez, Jose Joaquin: Fantasias indijenas. Episodios i leyendas de la
epoca del descubrimiento, la conquista i la colonizacion de
Quisqueya. Santo Domingo, Imprenta de Garcia Hermanos, 1877.
253 (1) p. 8°.

Prieto, Antonio Lopez. "Informe Sobre los Restos de C Ion."
_ Habana, 1878.

Rainsford, Marcus: An historical account of the black empire of
Hayti. [London], J. Gundee, 1805. xxiii, 467 (9) p. front, maps.
4°.

Saint Mery, Louis Elie Moreau de, "Description de la partie espa-
gnole de l'isle de Saint Domingue," Philadelphia, 1796.

Schoenrich, Otto, "Santo Domingo, A Country with a Future." New
York. Macmillan and Co., 1918. 418 pp. 8°. Price, $3.00. The
best recent book on Santo Domingo.

Soulastre, Dorvo: Voyage par terre de Santo Domingo. . . . Suivi
d'un rapport sur l'etat actuel des mines de la colonie espagnole.
Paris, Chaumerot, 1899. 407 (1) p. front. 8°.

Tejera, Emiliano: Los restos de Cristobal Colon exhumados de la
catedral de Santo Domingo en 1795 i 1877. Santo Domingo,
Imprenta de Garcia Hermanos, 1879. Ill p. 8°.

U. S. Commission of inquiry to Santo Domingo report. With the
introductory message of the President, special reports made to
the commission, state papers furnished by the Dominican govern-
ment and the statements of over seventy witnesses. Washington,
Government Printing Office, 1871. 297 p. 8°.

(U. S. Senate Ex. doc. no. 9, 42d cong., 1st sess.)

United States Senate: Report of the select committee appointed to
investigate the memorial of Davis Hatch. June 25, 1870. Wash-
ington, Government Printing Office, 1869. xlvii, 268 p. 8°.
(41st cong., 2d sess. rept. 234.)

Verrill, A. Hyatt, "Porto Rico, Past and Present, and Santo Domingo
of Today," New York. 1914.

Walton, William, Jr.: "Present State of the Spanish Colonies, Includ-
ing a Particular Report of Hispanola," London, 1810.

HAITI

Beard, John R.: The life of Toussaint l'Ouverture, the negro patriot
of Hayti. London, Ingram, Cooke & Co., 1853. port, xi, 335 p.
map. illus. 8°.

Bird, M. B.: l'Homme noir; ou, notes historiqucs sur l'independance

Haitienne. Edinburgh, Impr. par Murrav ct Gihb, 1876. viii, 360

p. 12°. Also English Ed. New York, 1869.
Deleage, Paul: Haiti en 1886. Paris, E. Dentu, 1887. front. 394 (1)

p. 12°. —
Edwards, Bryan: An historical survey of the French colony in the

island of St. Domingo. London, for J. Stockdale, 1797. xxii,

247 p. map. 4°.
Firmin, A.: Haiti: au point de vue politique, administratif et econo-

mique. Paris, F. Pichon, 1901. 90 (1) p. 8°.
La France et Haiti . . . Nouvelk- edition. Paris, Librairie

Cotillon, 1901. 90 (1) p. 8°.
M. Roosevelt, president des fitats Unis et la republique d'Haiti.

New York, Hamilton bank note eng. and print, co., 1905. x, 501

(1) p. front, (port.) 12°.
Fortunat, Dantes: Nouvelle geographie de l'ile d'Haiti contenant des

notions historiques et topographiques sur les autres Antilles.

Paris, Impr. H. Noirot, 1888. xxvi, 537 p. map. illus. 12°.
Franklin, James: The present state of Hayti (Santo Domingo), with

remarks on its agriculture, commerce, laws, religion, finances,

and population, etc., etc. By James Franklin. London, John

Murray, 1828. 411 (1) p. 12°.

* Not listed by Pan American Library.

Domestic and Foreign Missionary Society.
Guillermin, Gilbert: Journal historique de la revolution de la partie

de Test de Saint Domingue. Philadelphia, P. M. Lafourcade,

1810. 3 p. 1., xii, 314 (2) p. front, (port.) table. 8°.
Haiti: Expose general de la situation de la republique d'Haiti. Annee

1897 et 1898. Port-au-Prince, Impr. H. Chauvet & cic, 1897-98.

2 v. in 1. 8°.
Hazard, Samuel: Santo Domingo, past and present, with a glance at

Hayti. Maps and numerous illustrations. New York, Harper

& Bros., 1873. xxix, 511 p. 8°.
History of the island of St. Domingo, from its first discovery by

Columbus to the present period. New York, reprinted by Mahlon

Day, 1824. viii, 266 p. 8°.
International Bureau of the American Republics: Haiti (a hand-
book). (Washington, Government Printing Office, 1892.) iv, 240

p. illus. map. 8°.

(Its bulletin no. 62. September, 1892.)
L6ger, J. N.: Haiti, her history and her distractors. New York and

Washington, The Neale Publishing company, 1907. 372 p. front.

illus. 8°.

Same. (French translation.) 411 p. front, illus. 8°.

Madiou, fils, Thomas: Histoire d'Haiti. Port-au-Prince, Impr. dr

Jh. Courtois, 1847-48. 3 v. in 2. 8°.
McCorkle: Monroe Doctrine in its Relation to the Republic of Haiti.
Mackenzie, Charles: Notes on Haiti, made during a residence in that

republic. By Charles Mackenzie . . . London, Henry Colburn

and Richard Bentlcy, 1830. 2 v. front, fold. map. fasc. 12
Moreau de St. Mery, M. E.: A topographical and political description

of the Spanish part of Saint Domingo . . . By M. L. E. M reau

de Saint Mery . . . Tr. from the French, by William Cobbett.

Philadelphia, The author, 1796. 2 v. 8°.
Pritchard, Hesketh V. H.: "Where Black Rules White." London,

T. Nelson & Sons. 1^10. 368 p.

93

J*

Rainsford, Marcus: An historical account of thr black empire of
Hayti. (London), J. Cundee, 1905. xxiii, 497 (9) p. front, plate,
maps. 4°.

Redpath, James: A guide to Hayti. Boston, Haytian bureau of
emigration, 1861. 180 p. front, (port.) illus. map. 12°.

Sanders, Prince: Haytian papers. A collection of the very inter-
esting proclamations, and other official documents; together with
some account of the rise, progress, and present state of the King-
dom of Hayti. With a preface by Prince Sanders . . . London,
Printed for W. Reed, 1816. xv, 228 p. 8°.

St. John, Spenser: Hayti, or the black republic ... 2d ed. New
York, Scribner & Welford, 1889. xxiv, 389 p. map. 8°.

Tippenhauer, Louis Gentil: Die insel Haiti . . . Mit 30 holzschnit-
ten, 29 abbildungen in lichtdruck und 6 geologischen tafeln in
farbendruck. Leipzig, F. A. Brochkaus, 1893. xviii, 693, (1) p.
illus. plates. 12°.

Underhill: "The West Indies, Their Social and Religious Condition."

Vibert, Paul: La republique d'Haiti. Son present, son avenir econo-
mique . . . Paris and Nancy, Berger-Levrault et cie., 1895.
360 (4) p. 16°.

Wimpffen, Frangois A. S.: A voyage to Saint Domingo, in the years
1788, 1789 and 1790 . . . London, printed for T. Cadell, Jr.
and W. Davis (etc.), 1797, 1 p. 1. xviii, 371 p. map. 8°.

Recent Magazine Articles:
SANTO DOMINGO

Santo Domingo: Agricultural paradise. By Eliseo Espaillat. Agwi
S. S. News, New York. Feb. 1918.

Eastern part of the Dominican Republic. By Theodor de Booy. Bul-
letin of the Pan-American Union. Sept. 1917. p. 315.

The Island of Haiti — Santo Domingo: (History of the island and
its name). Commerce Reports. Washington. Oct. 4, 1917. p. 56.

Commercial aspects of the forests of the Dominican Republic: By
Karl W. Woodward. Bulletin of the Pan American Union. Nov.
1909. p. 914.

Santo Domingo: Our unruly ward. By T. Lothrop Stoddard. Amer-
ican Review of Reviews. New York, June, 1914.

Watchful acting in Santo Domingo: By George Marvin. World's
Work, New York. June, 1917.

Resources of the future in the Dominican Republic: By A. C. Shorey.
The Americans. New York. April, 1917.

(The city of) Santiago de los Caballeros: By Eliseo Espaillat. Re-
view of an article. Bulletin of the Pan-American LTnion. March.
1918.

HAITI

Through Haiti: By Hesketh Prichard. In "The Geographical Jour-
nal," London. Sept. 1900.

Strange Noises in Haiti: In "The Literary Digest," New York. Feb.
22, 1913. p. 396.

Development in Haiti: By Henry W. Furniss. illus. In "Bulletin
of the Pan American Union." Dec. 1910.

Hayti: Misunderstood. By Elsie Clews Parsons. In "The Indepen-
dent," New York. Aug. 8, 1912.

94

A Visit to the "Black Republic." Ills. In "The India Rubber World,"

New York. Oct. 1, 191^.
Haiti for the White Man: Ills. In "The South American," March

15, 1914. (New York).
Haiti and the Haitians: By L. W. Livingstone. A review article in

"The Bulletin of the Pan American Union." January, 1915.
Interesting Recollections of Harriet Chalmers Adams' long sojourn

in Haiti. In "The Sunday Star," Washington, D. C. Sept. 12, 1915.
Haiti— The Land of the Black Man's Burden. Illus. In "The World's

Magazine," New York. Aug. 22, 1915.
Haiti Emerges: By Kllwood Kendrick. illus. In "American Red

Cross Magazine." Washington, D. C. Sept., 1916.
Wards of the U. S.: Notes on what our Country is Doing for . . .

Haiti. In "National Geographic Magazine," Washington, D. C.

August, 1916.
Notes on Haiti and Santo Domingo: By H. P. Davis, illus. In "Pan

American Magazine," New York. March, 1917.
"Assassination and Intervention in Haiti": By George Marvin. In

"World's Work" for Feb., 1916. p. 404.

ADDITIONAL REFERENCES ON THE RELATIONS BETWEEN
THE UNITED STATES, HAITI AND SANTO DOMINGO

(Mostly Documentary)
In the Library of Congress

Academia colombina, Santo Domingo: Memorial dc protesta contra
la arbitraria ocupacion militar de la Republica Dominicana por
tropas de los Estados Unidos de Norte-America. 1916. Santo
Domingo, R. D., Impr. del "Listin diario" (1916). 22 p.

Boyce, William D.: United States dependencies; Cuba, Dominican
Republic, Haiti, Panama Republic. Chicago, New York. Rand,
McNally & Company (1914). 165 p.

Dominican customs receivership: First to eleventh annual report,
Dominican customs receivership under the American-Dominican
convention 1907 . . . 1907-08-1917. (Washington) Bureau of
Insular affairs, war department, 1908-1918. 11 v.

Summary of commerce, Dominican Republic, for 1909-1913, with

tabulated statements of comparisons for 1908-1912. Submitted to
the Bureau of insular affairs by the general receiver of Dominican
customs, Santo Domingo, March 1910-1914. (Washington, Press
of Gibson Brothers, 1910-1914).

Laws, statutes, etc. Customs tariff and an epitome of the revenue

laws affecting the charges upon merchandise imported int
exported from the republic of Santo Domingo. Comp. in the
Office of the controller and general receiver Santo Dominican
customs, Santo Domingo, D. R. Washington, D. C, Bureau of
insular affairs, War department, 1905. 144 p.

Law of customs and ports (customs regulations) Dominican Re-
public. Tr. from the official ed. of the Spanish. Santo Domingo,
Office of the general receiver of Dominican customs, 1910. 41 p.

Ministerio de fomento y obras publicas. The Dominican Re-
public. Published by direction of the Department of promotion
and public works for the Jamestown tercentennial exposition.
(Washington, Press of B. S. Adams) 1007. 98 p. F1931.D67.

95

Gould, John W. Du Bois: General report on Haiti to Messrs. Breed,
Elliott & Harrison, Messrs. F. W. Chapman & Company, April 20.
1916. (New York, The Evening Post printing office, inc., 1916).
46 numb.

Dominican Republic: Puerto Plata, by Frank A. Henry; Monte
Christi agency and others. U. S. Bureau of foreign and domestic
commerce (Dept. of commerce). Supplement to Commerce re-
ports, 26a, June 26, 1915. 8 p.

Hollander, Jacob H.: Report on the Debt of Santo Domingo," 59th
Congress, 1st session, Senate Executive Document, 1905.

Lopez, Jose R.: La paz en la Republica Dominicana ( Contribucion
al estudio de la sociologia nacional). Santo Domingo, Tip. "El
Progreso," 1915. 173 p.

MacCorkle, William A.: The Monroe doctrine in its relation to the
republic of Haiti. New York, The Neale publishing company,
1915. 104 p.

Pan American financial conference. Group conference report, Domi-
nican Republic. Washington, Govt, print, off., 1915. 9 p. Also
published in Spanish.

Pan American Union: Dominican republic. General descriptive data
prepared July, 1911. Pan American union. Bulletin, July, 1911.
v. 33, no. 1: 100-118.

Pan American Union: Haiti, general descriptive data prepared in
June, 1911. Pan American union. Bulletin, Aug. 1911, v. 33,
no. 2: pp. 282-297.

Sannon, H. P.: Address on Haiti before Pan American commercial
conference, Feb. 13, 1911. (In Pan-American union. Proceedings
of Pan American commercial conference, 1911. Washington,
1911. p. 74-77).

Stephen, Charles: Monograph of Haiti, giving general data about
the island and Republic of Haiti, with hints on the Monroe doc-
trine. Port-au-Prince, Impr. Saint-Jacques, 1915. 41 p.

Totten, R. J.: Dominican Republican (Land titles and method of
acquiring land.) U. S. Monthly consular and trade reports, Dec.
1909, no. 350: 130-132.

U. S. Bureau of foreign and domestic commerce (Dept. of commerce).
Development of the Dominican Republic, by Charles A. Albrecht,
and Frank A. Heury. Supplemented with data from report of
General receiver of Dominican customs. Washington, Govt,
print, off., 1914. 36 p. (Special consular reports, no. 65.) HC1,
S2, No. 65.

1913 — (Wilson). Treaty between the United States and Haiti.

Finances, economic development and tranquility of Haiti. Signed
at Port-au-Prince, September 16, 1915 . . . Washington, Govt."
print, off., 1916. 10 p. (Treaty series, no. 623.)

Villard, Oswald G.: The rights of small nations in America; the
republics of the Caribbean. (Philadelphia, 1917) 7 p. Reprinted
from the Annals of the American academy of political and social
science, Philadelphia, July 1917. Publication no. 1129.

96

142

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