BANCROFT
LIBRARY
BANCROFT
LIBRARY
THE LIBRARY
OF
THE UNIVERSITY
OF CALIFORNIA
THROUGH
WONDERLAND
v r
if
THROUGH SERVICE TO GARDINER
GATEWAY
The Northern Pacific Railway provides through
standard sleeping cars daily, during the Yellowstone
Park season, from eastern and western terminals direct
to Gardiner Station. Through sleeping-car service or
continuous sleeping-car service is thus afforded from
Chicago, St. Louis, Kansas City, Omaha, Denver, St.
Paul, Minneapolis, Duluth, Superior, Butte, Helena,
Spokane, Tacoma, Seattle, Portland and Puget Sound
points, to the Official Entrance.
The Park season is from the middle of June to
the middle of September, and low rates of fare are
effective daily for the Park trip by itself or in connec-
tion with the Pacific Coast or eastern trip. Full details
will be promptly furnished by any Northern Pacific
Representative, as listed on page 70.
All Agents sell tickets via the Northern Pacific
Railway — the "Scenic Highway through the Land of
Fortune."
KDINER GATEWAY
YELLOWSTONE PARK
THROUGH WONDERLAND
Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone from Grand View— Inspiration Point in middle Dist
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R.AILWAY
YELLOWSTONE is the largest of our national and state
parks. It comprises 3,312 square miles, exclusive of
the forest reserve adjoining it. It is difficult to easily
enumerate the variety of nature's phenomena found in
this wide domain. One who indulges in plain, simple narrative
description, lays himself open to the charge of romancing to
those who have never seen the Park, as did the old guides
and frontiersmen of fifty years ago when they cautiously told
of the wonders to be
found among the moun-
tains. Comparisons with
other similar parks are
difficult as there are
no legitimate grounds
for comparison.
The Yosemite, Grand
Canon of the Colora-
do, Niagara, and the
Yellowstone, have
little in common.
Early Explorers
The Indians, of
course, were more or
less familiar with the
park country. They
did not frequent it, in general, however, although a band of
Sheep-eaters, so called, of the Shoshonean family, were found
living there when the whites first occupied it. They have
long since passed on to the "happy hunting grounds."
The first white man to see and know of any portion of
what is now the Yellowstone Park, was John Colter. Colter,
who lived a life of adventure, had been a member of the
Beaver Dam
'n the Park —
the Lure of the
Old Trappers
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Lewis and Clark Expedition to the mouth of the Columbia
River, and on the return, in 1806, severed his connection with
those explorers below the mouth of the Yellowstone River at
the Mandan towns, and made his way to the headwaters of the
Yellowstone. Remaining there during the winter of 1806-7,
he then started for St. Louis and met a brigade of fur trappers
at the mouth of the Platte River, bound for the upper Yellow-
stone. He was persuaded to again retrace his steps and, on
a mission to the Indians during the summer of 1807, he
traversed by Indian trail at least the eastern part of the
Yellowstone Park country, and the map in the Lewis and
Clark report, published in 1814, shows "Colter's Route in
1807."
The next known of the region, publicly, was in 1842, when
an article describing the geysers was printed in the Western
Literary Messenger of Buffalo, N. Y., and copied in the Wasp
of Nauvoo, 111. The contributor was Warren Angus Ferris,
an employe of the American Fur Company, who, with two
Pend d'Oreille Indians, visited one of the geyser areas in 1834.
This article seems to have been the first one printed descrip-
tive of any part of the Park region.
Many of the old mountain men connected with the fur
companies in the period before the Civil War knew of the
locality. James Bridger, a noted guide and explorer, often
told of the geysers and hot springs. Bridger was a wonderful
mountaineer, probably had no superior as such, knew the
Park region thoroughly, and told marvelous stories of it.
Some of his tales were true enough, others were pervaded by
a strongly imaginative quality, so much so that every thing
he stated regarding this locality was for many years entirely
disbelieved by most persons.
Joseph L. Meek, a contemporary of Carson, Bridger, and
other noted trappers and guides, and who bore an important
part in the early political history of Oregon, also saw a part of
the Park region in the early '305.
James DeLacy, a civil engineer of Montana, conducted a
prospecting party across the Park in 1863, and Messrs. Folsom
and Cook of Montana made a tour of the country in 1869.
The real discovery of the Park came in 1870, when a company
of Montana
gentlemen,
with Gen. H.
D. Washburn,
surveyor gen-
eral of Mon-
tana, as their
leader, made
Northern Pacific Station
an extended at Uulngston. Montana
tour of the region. Among those constituting this party besides
General Washburn, were Samuel T. Hauser, Warren C.
Gillette, Nathaniel P. Langford, Benjamin Stickney, Cornelius
Hedges, Truman C. Everts, and Walter Trumbull, a son of
Lyrnan Trumbull then a United States Senator from Illinois.
These were all prominent citizens of Montana, and there were
several others less generally known. Messrs. Hauser, Stickney,
Gillette, and Langford are still alive. A small escort of
United States cavalrymen from Fort Ellis, near Bozeman,
under Lieut. Gustavus C. Doane, accompanied the expedition.
From Lieutenant Doane 's prominence in the exploration the
expedition is often referred to as the Washburn- Doane
expedition. Doane's report of the expedition stands, and
always will, as a classic in all the literature pertaining to the
Park.
Mr. Langford, General Washburn, and Mr. Hedges kept
THtL-OUGH WONDEFCLAND
Six-horse Park Stage-coach — Between Gardiner and Mammoth Hot Springs
Gardiner River and Canyon — Eagle Nest Crag seen at rig
AIL WAY
diaries of their experiences, that of Mr. Langford being kept
in much detail. (General Washburn's was comparatively
brief.
To the Washburn party is to be credited the initiative
which resulted in establishing the region as a National Park.
Those who took the most active part in the movement were
Messrs. Langford and Hedges aided by Wm. H. Clagett, the
delegate to Congress from Montana. Dr. F. V. Hayden, the
geologist, at first disbelieved in the idea, but eventually threw
the weight of his influence in its favor.
The only criticism now heard regarding the segregation
of this domain is that not enough country was set aside. The
entire Jackson Lake and Teton Range region, since made
into a forest reserve, should have been included and should yet
be added to the Park proper. Regarding the wisdom of the
diversion of this vast area to park and timber reserve pur-
pcses, John Muir well voices all intelligent comment when he
writes :
"The withdrawal of this large tract from the public domain
did no harm, to anyone; for its height 6,000 to 13,000 feet
above the sea, and its thick mantle of volcanic rocks prevent
its ever being available for agriculture or mining, while on the
other hand its geographical position, reviving climate, and
wonderful scenery combine to make it a grand health, pleasure,
and study resort, a gathering place for travelers from all the
world."
Mr. Folsom, of the Folsom-Cook party of 1869, first gave
expression to the idea of creating a national park here. But
as this suggestion never reached the public, no results came
from it, and the suggestion which did eventuate in action was
made by Cornelius Hedges of the Washburn party near the
close of the exploration of 1870.
Major Sir Rose Lambart Price, Bart., an English world-
^
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traveler, visited the Park and adjoining region in 1897. He
published, in London, a book called A Summer on the Rockies,
in which, among other things, he writes:
"But what a Park it is! What a playground for a nation!
Where, in any other country in the world, is there anything
like it? It embraces in its limits *. * * mountains from
ten thousand to fourteen thousand feet above the sea — one
valley which has an elevation of not less than six thousand
feet; the geysers outclass anything of the kind in the known
world. There are over thirty-five that throw a column of hot
water from thirty to two hundred and fifty feet in the air, at
intervals of from one minute to fourteen days, and often
longer.
"The Grand Canon of the Yellowstone, twenty miles long,
with an average depth of twelve hundred feet, unsurpassed for
brilliancy of coloring by anything in nature; the Mammoth
Hot Springs, with their colored terraces; cliffs of volcanic
glass; waterfalls; mountains of petrifications ; hills of brim-
stone; everlastingly snow-clad peaks— all these, with many
more, too numerous to mention, are embraced in the people's
Park, and over a thousand miles of some of the best trout
fishing in the world is thrown in to help them enjoy it. Our
American cousins have every right to feel proud of their
magnificent playground, and they have conferred a benefit on
the entire world by preserving it in its entirety for the national
use."
This is a calm and deliberate statement of a much traveled
Englishman, and it coincides, practically, with the expressions
of all travelers. The figures here given have been slightly
changed from the originals to meet the facts as more accurately
known since the book was written.
The Climate of the Park
It is not alone as a land of geysers, waterfalls, hot springs,
canons, and kindred phenomena that the Park is worthy of
exploitation. General H. M. Chittenden, retired, well says:
"In the broadest and highest sense the Park is a sanatorium
which rarely fails to give substantial benefits to those who
seek them." The variety of altitude, ranging from about
6,200 feet at Mammoth Hot Springs to 7,800 feet at the Grand
Canon ; the clear, pure, exhilarating atmosphere ; the warm
days and cool nights; the utter absence of fogs and marshy
exhalations make the Park one of the most desirable health
resorts in the country.
The mean temperatures for the months of the tourist
season, averaged from nearly twenty years' observations,
are as follows : June/ 54° F. ; July, 62° F.; August, 62° F. ;
September, 52° F. The days, of course, are .warm, but not
oppressively so, and the heat that is a serious affliction in
many of our cities is a perfect delight in this cool and rarefied
region .
The waters are pure, there are no prevalent diseases, and
the combination of health conditions, good hotels, sight-seeing,
fishing, and other recreations is probably unknown elsewhere.
While the hot waters of the Park have never been particu-
larly recommended for curing human ills, this feature of
the Park having been overshadowed and neglected, they are
known to be quite efficacious in many ways and are so
acknowledged by physicians who have investigated them.
Even as a fall and winter resort, as General Chittenden
says, the Park would prove a better place for a great many
persons living in northern climes than are noted resorts in
other parts of the country. In a word, the Park approaches
ideality as a place for rest, recreation, and healthful out-door
life.
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Emigrant Peak — Between Livingston and Gardiner — 10,969 Feet high
PACIFIC P^AILWAY
The Park in General
The care and superintendence of the Park rest in the
Government, the superintendent being an army officer, in
charge of several troops of cavalry. The latter continually
patrol the Park to prevent violation of its rules and regula-
tions. A United States commissioner, to execute, the laws,
is also resident there.
Road building is very expensive and is an engineering prob-
lem of importance and difficulty. For
years the congressional appro-
priations were1 small
and the efforts
at road mak-
ing were super-
ficial, and the
roads themselves,
necessarily, tenta-
tive, or temporary
ones. With ample
appropriations
in recent years
and the expen-
ditures under the direction of an officer of the United States
Engineer Corps, a well devised system of roads, including neces-
sary and often very expensive viaducts and bridges, has been
constructed. Xo railways or electric lines or automobiles are
allowed within the Park limits, and the usual tourist route
aggregates more than 140 miles of stage-coach travel. Auto-
mobiles are prohibited within the Park.
Within recent years the Government has expended
$1,000,000 in betterments, and the result is a never-ending
surprise to those who see the Park for the iirst time.
Six-Hnrse Park Cnach
over the Government-
Kept Roads
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Instances of expensive road construction are noticed in
the new concrete viaduct and reduced grade through Golden
Gate, costing $10,000; the beautiful new Melan arch concrete
bridge across the Yellowstone River at the Grand Canon,
which cost $20,000; the new mountain road from the Grand
Canon through Dunraven Pass to Tower Fall and Mammoth
Hot Springs with a branch from the pass to the summit of
Mount Washburn. This road, which cost several thousand
dollars a mile, was a much more expensive and difficult piece
of work than was anticipated, and it provides the means for
making the finest side trip in the Park — the trip to Mount
Washburn. From the mountain a comprehensive view of
the Park is obtained.
Park Transportation
The transportation facilities found here are a particular
feature of Wonderland. For Yellowstone Park travel a
specially-designed stage-coach was constructed by the well
known Concord builders, which combines the many admirable
details of the old-style coach with new features, making
quite a different and improved means of carriage of it. The
closeness, stuffiness, and the jerkiness of the old-style
coach are replaced by a large, roomy, splendid wagon, afford-
ing most comfortable and enjoyable riding as it goes whirling
along the hard, macadamized, dustless roads of the Park.
Between Gardiner and Mammoth Hot Springs a special
type of Concord coach is used. This is a very large, open, six-
horse coach most substantially built, having seats also on the
roof, and with a capacity of from twenty to thirty- four persons.
It is a modified tally-ho and much more comfortable.
The regular coaches used south of Mammoth Hot Springs
are of different sizes, but are all four-horse coaches, open at
the sides for sight-seeing, and comfortable. They seat from
NOFL/THEFCN PACIFIC
f AY
eight to eleven persons, including those on the driver's seat.
As in regular stage-coaches the driver's seat is on the outside
over the boot. While, as stated, these coaches ade
very open, they are supplied with heavy canvas curtains for
protection against the elements when necessary. A limited
amount of hand-baggage is carried in the boot and in the bag-
gage rack at the rear of the coach.
There are also top surreys and mountain wagons in use—
two-horse wagons carrying from three to five persons each.
For special or private parties these wagons are very satis-
factory, and are much sought after.
are not run in the old-fashioned way,
! horses. Each vehicle, as it leaves
Springs, has its load of tourists
These coaches
with relays of
Mammoth Hot
arranged for
the complete
trip, and it re-
tains the same
d r iver and
horses for the
Park tour.
With the in-
cessant change
and variety
found in nearly
every mile of
travel in the Park, this coaching trip is far and away the finest
one in the United States and is altogether in a class by ' itself.
The ever-changing panorama of mountains, lakes, canons,
rivers, hot pools, forests, geysers, cascades, and wild animals,
most of them in an infinite variety, ending with a fine hotel
and rest at the end of each day's ride, distinguishes this
One of the Big Coaches
between Qardiner and
Mammoth Hot Springs
THR-OUGH WONDEFCLAN
Old Faithful Inn — A unique Hotel Home in a unique Land
el at Yellowstone Lake— Overlooking Lake and Mountai
NOP^TH
PACIFIC R. AIL WAY
coaching trip from an}* other and makes it a memorable one
to each and every one fortunate enough to enjoy it.
The number of miles embraced in a day's drive ranges
from nine to forty. On each full day's drive a stop is made
at noon for rest and luncheon at one of the lunch stations.
In this way those least used to travel are able to thoroughly
enjoy the ride and with little or .no fatigue, particularly in
recent years since the roads have been so completely recon-
structed and improved. More than a hundred miles of the
roads are now regularly sprinkled daily. This is done by
means of large, specially-built sprinkling- wagons drawn by
four horses. These wagons start out every morning in
advance of the coaches and are under control of the govern-
ment officials.
The Hotels
One of the most enjoyable accompaniments of the Park
tour is the system of hotels found there.
At each of the five principal points, or centers of interest,
in the Park, the Yellowstone Park Hotel Company has a large
and modern hotel equipped with baths, steam heat, electricity,
etc. These hostelries, utterly unlike in architecture, have a
uniform capacity for at least 250 guests, some of them much
exceeding this number. Besides the five hotels, which are
located at Mammoth Hot Springs, Lower Geyser Basin, Upper
Geyser Basin, the outlet of Yellowstone Lake and the Grand
Canon, there are good lunch stations at Norris Geyser Basin
and the \vest arm of Yellowstone Lake.
The hotel at Mammoth Hot Springs, a very large one, is
within convenient walking distance of the renowned colored
terraces with their beautiful hot springs.
The lunch station at Norris Geyser Basin stands on an
eminence overlooking the weird scene below.
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The Fountain Hotel at Lower Geyser Basin, is a very
comfortable and capacious hotel home within a short distance
of the Fountain Geyser and the Mammoth Paint Pots. The
hot sulphur water of one of the springs is piped into the hotel
and is supremely" pleasant for bathing purposes.
At the west arm of Yellowstone Lake just across the
Continental Divide there is a new and commodious lunch
station.
The large hotel at the Grand Canon is situated upon a hill
near the Lower, or Great Fall, at the head of the canon.
From it one can easily walk to the Fall or to Point Lookout
on the brink of the canon. Grand View is not very far dis-
tant, the Upper Fall not more than a mile away, the roads
and trails are good, and pedestrianism is a pleasure.
Old Faithful Inn
Old Faithful Inn is the creation of an architectural genius.
It is almost as great an attraction for Yellowstone Park as
the wonderful geyser phenomena or the profound Grand Canon.
It is easy to say that
the imposing building
is made of boulders
and logs, but this
does not describe the
quaint and marvel-
ous manipulation
and blending of these
materials. The
forests of the Park
abound in peculiar
tree growths. All sorts
of irregularly-formed limbs and
bulging boles are to be found, and these have
corner Of
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been utilized wherever possible, and to them does the Inn
owe much of its quaint originality. These abnormal growths
are in perfect keeping with the unusual character of this
Wonderland, and Old Faithful Inn harmonizes completely
with its strange surroundings.
The Inn is not in the least a freaky affair, pertinent to its
locality. It is a thoroughly modern and artistic structure
in every respect — modern in its appointments and artistic
in the carrying out of an unconventional and original scheme
The Inn and its furnishings required an expenditure approach-
ing $200,000. Electric lights and bells, new and unique room
furnishings, rugs on room floors and in the large halls, steam
heat, good fire protection, dormers, French windows, massive
porches with rustic seats and swings, and a mammoth porte
cocherc are a few of the many noteworthy features. The
office, or reception hall, is a striking one. This spacious room
is seventy-five feet square and extends upward ninety-two
feet to the peak of the roof. An enormous chimney con-
taining eight fireplaces stands at one corner. This is con-
structed of lava blocks of assorted shapes and sizes, many of
them of enormous bulk. A massive clock is attached to one
face of the chimney, and back of it is a snug and cosy writing-
room recess. The chimney is fourteen feet square and at each
side is a huge fireplace and at each corner a small one, and
fires of big logs are kept going constantly in one or more
of the large fireplaces.
Large balconies of logs surround this great court on three
sides on the second and third stories, and other and smaller
balconies are found still- higher up, while, perched under the
roof at almost the tip- top of the ceiling is a small crow's nest
sort of an open log-hut room.
The dining-room is a very large, high room with roof ceiling
well trussed. It is sixty feet square, with another huge lava
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Both Black-tail and White-tail Deer roam at will through the Park
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PACIFIC FCAILWAY
My Lady's Boudoir
Old Faithful Inn
chimney and fireplace and with very large, tine plate-glass
windows. From nearly all of the latter the hourly eruptions
of Old Faithful Geyser can be seen.
Some of the bedrooms are of log structure, others are of
natural, unplaned,
unpainted pine, the
effect being unique
and pleasing. The
furnishings are of
the Arts and
Crafts style.
The hotel is so
situated that most
of the Upper Geyser
Basin proper is
within range of it.
distant eruptions of
Grand, Giant, Riverside , Splendid, and other geysers can be
seen more or less, while the eruptions of all -the geysers
between the Castle and Old Faithful are plainly visible.
The view from Old Faithful Inn is certainly one of the most
surprising and interesting to be found from any hotel in the
world. This applies with particular force to the view from the
search-light platform at the very peak of the roof. 'Each night
this search-light is operated, being turned upon such geysers
(particularly Old Faithful) as may be in eruption, and upon
the bears prowrling at the edge of the woods. A geyser seen
in eruption under the search-light is a most remarkable
sight.
Tourists should, without fail, arrange to remain several
days, or even longer, at Old Faithful Inn and enjoy a unique
experience in a unique hotel in a unique land.
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The Lake Colonial Hotel
As perfect of its kind and as complete in every way as
Old Faithful Inn, is the Colonial Hotel at the outlet of Yellow-
stone Lake. Here, facing Yellowstone Lake, stands a most
stately, dignified building of colonial architecture, massive
and imposing in size, with three high-columned porches and
a continuous veranda along the entire front, the whole beauti-
fully illuminated with electric lights at night. The hotel
stands back from the water but a short distance, and its large
front porch commands a view of the entire lake, twenty miles
in length with the mountains on each side of it. Prominent
among these peaks are Mounts Langford, Doane, and Steven-
son on the east; Colter Peak, Turret, and Table mountains
to the southeast of the lake; and Mount Sheridan almost
directly south from the hotel and twenty miles away.
The reception-room, or office, of this structure is of very
large size, finished in California redwood, electrically lighted
at night, and is furnished with large floor rugs and all kinds
of easy chairs of the Arts and Crafts pattern. It is a place
where one feels wonderfully at home from the start, and the
comfort and repose suggested grow upon the traveler. Steam
heat, electric lights, baths, and the usual accessories of modern
hotels are of course to be found, and the room furnishings are
all that can be desired.
Lake, hotel, and mountains — distant and near — form a
rare and delightful combination, and one can, with utmost
pleasure, while away a dreamy day, or week, or month, as one's
inclination prompts. This hotel is the largest in the Park
and has accommodations for 450 guests.
The Animal Kingdom
The Park is really the only place where the public in general
can see, without cost, the animals of the forest and the wilds
in their natural state. After many years the elk, deer, ante-
lope, and mountain sheep have become acquainted with the
fact that in Yellowstone Park man does not intend harm
toward them. The bears learned this long ago. Now the
other animals show little timidity and it is a most delectable
sight, as the coaches drive along, to see an elk or two slaking
their thirst in the stream, or several deer quietly feeding in
the woods near the road.
The effort to increase the buffalo herd by outside pur-
chases and to place them where they can be fed and protected
is meeting with success. They are now kept in a large pasture
on Lamar River and appear to take kindly to the situation.
The new herd, numbering twenty-one, was purchased in the
fall of 1902, and it now numbers nearly one hundred.
There are probably about 2,000 antelope in the Park,
most of them living on and around Mount Everts near Mam-
moth Hot Springs, and increasing in numbers. Between 100
and 2 O C Antelope grazing on
mountain the A'f<"fa Plai"
at Entrance Arch
Sheep are Gardiner
supposed
also to
have their
habitat
on Mount
Ever ts.
Both
sheep and
antelope
are more wary than the other animals and the former disap-
FTfe*:
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THROUGH WOND! POLAND
A Park Grizzly Bear watching the Tourists
•PS-
NOFCTHEFC
pear in the late spring, and just where they pass their summer
vacation is not definitely kno\vn. In the fall, winter, and
spring both antelope and sheep are found in large numbers
on the hills and flats about Gardiner and Mammoth Hot
Springs. To some extent they are fed hay by the authori-
ties at Fort Yellowstone in the winter and early spring,
which serves to render them less timorous and to domesticate
them in some degree. Since the establishment of the practice
of thus feeding the animals, the antelope in gradually
increasing number have remained on the alfalfa flat within the
Park near Gardiner during the summer, where they may be
seen by tourists. The number of deer is increasing and
the beautiful creatures, during the winter months, like the
sheep and antelope, become a very familiar feature of the
hills and parade ground at Fort Yellowstone, or Mammoth
Hot Springs. The deer, perhaps, are the least timid of any
of the animals, and to see them unconcernedly grazing
around the hotels is indeed a sight to be remembered. As no
dogs are allowed in the Park there is nothing to molest
them.
It is the elk, however, that throng the Park in countless
thousands, and during the summer they are not infrequently
seen by the tourists from the coaches. They seclude them-
selves more or less, however, in the valleys and timber. They
are to be found by hundreds around Shoshone Lake and in
Harden Valley, and there are bands of them that frequent
the upper parts of Mount Washburn and Dunraven Peak.
Those who wish to see large bodies of elk, young and old, can
easily do so by riding on horseback a few miles up Alum
Creek, from either the Grand Canon or the Yellowstone Lake
Hotel. There, in the upper part of Hayden Valley, at the
base of Mary's Mountain, there are, during the tourist season,
many hundreds of them, mostly dams with their young.
The bears are much in evidence near most of the hotels
and any evening or morning, with rare exceptions, from one
to twenty or more may be seen eating from the refuse piles
near the hotels. They are extremely interesting, and if
tourists do not threaten or interfere with them, they are not
in the least dangerous. Without being ^fjBti^^^
intrusive tourists may approach suffi-
ciently near to enjoy their antics and
movements without the slightest danger.
While this is true the bears, it must be
borne in mind, are yet wild ones and
resent familiarity. The tourist season is'
a time of feasting for them and they seem
to understand it and have become quite
domesticated, but they are wild bears still and this fact
should .be remembered.
The bears are found more particularly at the Fountain
Hotel, Old Faithful Inn, the Lake, and Grand Canon hotels.
At most of them the black and brown bears are principally
seen, but at the lake and canon there are also many grizzlies.
Tourists have little difficulty, as a rule, in kodaking the ani-
mals, and now and then some of them seem to consciously
pose for their pictures.
In portions of the Park, naturally those somewhat retired
and secluded, there are many beavers and they are flourishing
and increasing. Perhaps the point where these industrious
animals may most conveniently be seen by visitors to the Park
is over near Tower Fall, where Yancey formerly lived, where
there are several colonies of them. Here, among the brooks
in this beautiful part of the Park they may be found, with
their dams, houses, ponds, and slides, and one may easily,
in the morning or evening, see them swimming about in the
26
water or cutting down trees on land, laying in their store of
food.
At Beaver Lake near Obsidian Cliff beaver dams and a
beaver house may be seen by all tourists.
A Trout Preserve
As a place where one may indulge in angling at little or no
expense or hardship, the Park probably ranks at the head.
In 1890 the United States Fish Commission began stocking
the waters of the Park. Since that year about 2,000,000 trout
fry have been "planted" in the Park lakes and streams and these
have greatly multiplied. These plants have comprised lake,
black spotted, Loch Leven, rainbow, Von Behr, and brook
trout, and salmon trout are also found in Yellowstone Lake as
a natural growth.
From any of the hotels one can easily make fishing excur-
sions, at distances ranging from a few rods to a few miles,
and find fine sport. Those who angle in Yellowstone Park
are under few7 restrictions, but the}' are assumed to be true
sportsmen. All fish must be taken with a hook and line. At
Mammoth Hot Springs there are many streams within easy
reach where trouting is excellent. At Xorris Basin fine fishing
is found in the Gibbon River and its branches. From Lower
Geyser Basin, Nez Perce Creek affords good fishing, and at
the junction of the Firehole and Gibbon rivers, grayling
may be caught.
At Upper Geyser Basin trout can be taken anywhere in
the Firehole River, even though it be largely composed of
water from the geysers. It is a rather peculiar experience
to angle in warm geyser waters and draw forth gamy, firm,
well-flavored trout. These trout have come down the Firehole
River, shooting Keppler's Cascade, and thrive in the thermal
waters found below Old Faithful Geyser.
J
*®4i'
Mimw
HR.OUGH WONDI POLAND
Northern Pacific Train and Entrance Arch at Gardiner
Six-horse Coach leaving Gardiner for Tour of the Park
At Yellowstone Lake the fish may be caught either by
casting or trolling. The lake trout are easily caught even by
those unaccustomed to fishing. For those who are adepts at
angling the most desirable spot here is in the Yellowstone
River below the outlet of the lake. Boats, and fishing tackle
for those who do not have their own, can be procured here.
The lake itself swarms with salmon trout and they are abun-
dant in the river.
At the Grand Canon, fishing in the Yellowstone River is
good, a favorite fishing spot being the reach of river between
the Upper and Lower Falls.
The choice fishing waters , however, are near Tower Fall.
At this point, some twenty miles from Mammoth Hot Springs,
the Yellowstone River is a large stream with wide bends and
pools and here the trout seem to enjoy trying conclusions
with the angler. This is the junctioia of the main Yellowstone
River and its east fork, or Lamar River, and there is a long
reach of waters to cast over.
Let the to.urist who enjoys trouting by all means plan to
spend several days here and there in the Park for this purpose.
The Tour of the Park
In making a tour of such a region as Yellowstone Park, a
foundation scheme, or schedule, must necessarily be arranged.
Such a schedule must be planned to accomplish several things
as far as it can. It must aim to enable tourists to see as much
as possible in a reasonable time at a reasonable expense.
Such a scheme, however, is not at all absolute or immutable,
and those who have ample means and time are at liberty to
vary it as much as they may desire. Those who can and do
thus prolong the tour, spending several days at each hotel
studying the peculiarities of each locality, are gloriously
rewarded for so doing. Such persons obtain a really compre-
9
THROUGH WONDERLAND |Q
hensive idea of the Park and its greatness. The elevation
brings coolness and health, the great hills and forests calm
the mind, and the roar of the streams through mighty canons,
the leaping trout in the rapids, the hot water fountains, the
lakes rippling in the sunlight or reflecting the cliffs which
edge their shores, the flower-bedecked slopes and vales, the
iridescent springs gushing from superheated underground
reservoirs, the
graceful
deer and
antelope
feeding at
their
Just starting
from
Gardiner
this means a sensible, sane method of rest and recreation-
means new blood, new nerves, new life.
At Gardiner the train stops at one side of a most unusual
and beautiful log station, plain, yet artistic, and entirely in
keeping with its surroundings. On the other side stand the
huge six-horse Concord coaches in a long line waiting for
humanity to pile aboard. This accomplished, away the
coaches go, one after the other, around a pretty little lake
and through the massive, time-defying 810,000 entrance arch
of lava dedicated by ex-President Roosevelt, across the
line of the Park, and Wonderland stretches before them.
At Gardiner, facing south, to the right rise two high,
impressive peaks, Sepulchre Mountain, the nearer, and
Electric Peak. The latter, 11,155 feet high, is cut by the
boundary line of the Park., The mountain was named from
peculiar electrical disturbances experienced there by a party
of government engineers in the earl}- days. It is a volcanic
peak and is good for a stiff bit of climbing of 2,500 feet for
those so- disposed.
For nearly the entire distance to Mammoth Hot Springs,
five miles, the route lies alongside the roaring, foaming
Gardiner River, with Eagle Nest Crag and its nest of eaglets,
or ospreys, crowning the pinnacle towering above it. It is
an exhilarating ride, a foretaste of days to come. The
stream is a beautiful one fresh from mountain snow banks
and — has trout in it.
Mammoth Hot Springs
Mammoth Hot Springs, the first point in the tour of the
Park, is the administrative center, or capital, of Wonderland.
It is now a very attractive place. A large green plaza is
flanked on the east by the red-roofed officers' buildings and
the barracks of Fort Yellowstone. This is certainly one < >f the
most attractive of army posts and has recently been much
enlarged. On the ite side of the campus rises Terrace
Mountain with the richly colored, steaming, wonderfully
sculptured terraces. To the north, at the base of the moun-
tain, stands the huge hotel with other buildir ie occu-
pied as stores and dwellings, others used by the Government
and the Hotel and Transportation Company officials. Facing
the hotel, to the south and bounding the plain, rises Lookout
" • y / J
Mammoth -Hot Springs — Colored Terraces and Hotel
Hill, on the summit of which can be seen the old block-
house built by Colonel Xorris, the second superintendem
the Park, long years ago. The Government has recently
completed a system of waterworks here and has installed -a
much-needed arrangement of concrete sidewalks and macad-
amized roads. These, with the irrigation canals and their
running water, have turned what was formerly a dreary,
dazzling white, parched, unkempt, waste into a green and
ornamental plain.
The more distant view from the hotel is very attractive.
To the south Bunsen Peak rises in its glory, to the east is
Mount Everts, a long, steep-sided plateau with a lava rampart
capping its southern extremity, and between these mountains
are the canons of the Gardiner River and its branches, and
farther away the Washburn Range. It all forms a fine land-
scape.
Mammoth Hot Springs, during the park season, is a lively
place. The throngs of people coming and going, the arriving
and departing coaches, the officers and soldiers in blue or khaki,
the bugle calls, the morning and evening guns, the steaming
terraces, the brilliantly-lighted hotel and plaza and the "hops"
at night, all combine to make the springs a very gay, inter-
esting- place during the park season. Tourists should cer-
tainly arrange to remain several days at the Springs, and
thus, not only the better see the beauties of the place, but
also become impressed by the peculiar spirit and fervor that.
sooner or later possesses the real nature-lover in this weird
land.
The wonderful terraces are scattered along the side of
Terrace Mountain and yet are fairly well concentrated. Were
there nothing else to be seen in Yellowstone Park the sight
and study of these pools and travertin clifflets with their
-
THROUGH \VONDER^LAN
many colors and rare and delicate sculptures would repay
one for the trip. And they are but the first chapter.
Prof. Mode Wineman of Chicago University, writing in the
Chicago Evening Post of a "Tramp Through the Yellowstone,"
in 1903, thus refers to his first sight of the terraces at Mammoth
Hot Springs:
"The sky became overcast, the wind blew, and it began to
rain as, through a vista, appeared a mass of
orange-colored deposits from which a vapor
rose. It was the Mammoth Hot Springs,
with gorgeous-colored terraces famed
the world
over, and
the va-
Beside the
Gardiner Riuer
Eagle Nest Crag
in view
por -was
steam
from the
springs
themselves
as the water
overflowed
and trickled down over a fairylike water way.
When I reached the terrace -Jupiter Terrace — the rain
ceased, the clouds parted, the sun shone, and a rainbow
played mystically over the first scene in Wonderland. But
for a moment only. The clouds lowered, it grew dark, and
rain fell again. Again it cleared, the sun set in a radiance
over the magnificent terraces. Who can describe the colors
of these wonderful formations? They are absolutely unique.
One must sit in silence with riveted gaze until the minute,
marvelous formations reveal their tiny, delicate contours
bathed in port wine, orange, and chocolate. One is indeed
fortunate to catch a glimpse of their true beauty."
One is profoundly impressed by the remains of ancient
springs and terraces everywhere seen. The area and magni-
tude of thermal action, past and present, is absolutely aston-
ishing.
Guide-posts and guides point out to the tourist, by name,
the particular pools and terraces and the guide-books give the
interesting facts regarding them. Near the hotel there are
several circular, ancient wells, or holes, that formerly were
beautiful pools. One of the most interesting objects is Liberty-
Cap, a standing monument-like shaft supposed to have been,
at one time, a living geyser like the Orange Geyser. It is
thirty-eight feet high and, irregularly, about twenty feet in
diameter. The Giant's Thumb, not far from Liberty Cap,
and similar thereto but smaller, is an object of some interest.
Pulpit, Jupiter, Cleopatra, Angel, and Narrow Gauge terraces,
Orange Geyser, Cupid's Cave, Bath Lake, and the Devil's
Kitchen are points that are always visited, and are so mar-
velous and dissimilar as to point the folly of an attempt at
description.
There are numerous rides, walks, and drives about the
springs that may profitably be taken. The mouth of Boiling
River, the very fine deep canon and fall of the Middle Gardiner
River behind Bunsen Peak, and the falls formed by the East
Gardiner River, are all within walking distance to good pedes-
trians, or they can be reached by horseback or with a surrey.
The Gardiner Canon ranks next to the Grand Canon itself.
It is grim, isolated, and imposing, and its walls afford wonder-
ful examples of columnar lava.
A fine drive through a finer country is found in a trip to
the Tower Fall region. The road is a new one and opens up
a very attractive part of the Park not seen in the usual tour,
besides leading to the best fishing.
Grand
Canon
Lake
Yellowstone Lower Upper Colonial Canon
Fall Fall Hotel Hotel
Thumb
Lunch
Station
i ill 1
River
lectric
Peak
Q
T
HL lx_
o u
G H
W O N
D E
R.L
A N
D
5
Mammoth Hot Springs to Lower Geyser Basin
On the first day's ride of the tour, the hard road leads past
the terraces, climbing to Golden Gate by a light and regular
grade. On the way the Hoodoo Rocks, so called, better the
Travertine Rocks, are passed. These form a strange, chaotic
spectacle. Of limestone, or calcareous formation, they stand
inclined at all imaginable angles and the road winds
through the midst of them. They are of a silvery
gray color, which fact gives name to Silver Gate, a
characteristic opening or gateway through them.
Four miles from the
springs Golden Gate
forms a narrow, canon
passage between Ter-
race Mountain and
Bunsen Peak, the road *
debouching into Swan t:r
Lake Valley. To the
north rises Electric
Peak, and the Gallatin
Range, showing many
distinct peaks, forms a
fine mountain boun-
dary on the farther
side of the valley.
The Gate is a
short, striking, rugged, yellowish canon upon which the
Government has spent many thousands of dollars to make
it passable. In so doing it was necessary to construct a
viaduct of steel and concrete at one point at an expense of
» 1 0,000. This is the only viaduct of the kind in the world.
Rustic Fall, at the extreme head of the Gate, is one of the
38
NOR_TH E
PACIFIC R.AILWAY
attractions of the spot. While by no means a profound
canon, Golden Gate is a most picturesque one.
Twelve miles from Mammoth Hot Springs one of the most
interesting objects in the Park is reached. Obsidian Cliff,
of natural volcanic glass, invites close scrutiny, for it is a very
fine example of this species of lava. The cliff is a high, black,
abrupt one and in former years furnished an inexhaustible
supply of material to the Indians for arrow heads. When
Colonel Norris constructed the first road around its base, he
fractured the huge black boulders that obstructed the way by
first building fires about them and then, when heated, dashing
cold water upon them.
Beaver Lake lies at the foot of the cliff, and is formed by
old beaver dams that are still plainly visible.
Three miles and a half beyond Osbidian Cliff the first
evidences of geyser activity are seen. Roaring Mountain
is a fair-sized hill honeycombed with steam vents that have
effectually cooked the elevation and destroyed the vegetation.
At times its roaring can be heard some distance away.
Of other minor objects of interest passed en route, Apolli-
naris Spring, Twin Lakes, and the Frying Pan are the more
important.
Norris Geyser Basin is as weird, unnatural, and interesting
a piece of landscape as one ever sees. Steam columns rise
from hundreds of hot-water pools and orifices in the white-
gray basin, as if it were the center of a manufacturing district.
Norris Basin is distinctive in that it possesses the only steam
geyser or geysers in the Park. Formerly, one geyser, the
Black Growler, gave forth an enormous amount of steam with
terrific force. In recent years some disarrangement of internal
mechanism has resulted in another "steamer" or two breaking
forth at the same spot and thus dividing the force of the
,
!'^^4t^^M^l
••-.--' "'. --'^wk
Old Faithful Geyser— Eruptions occur every Hour— Height of Water Column from 125 to 150 Feet
PACIFIC R.AILWAY
eruption. It is a question if the new arrangement does not
surpass the solitary old Growler.
There are several small water geysers here, the Constant
and Minute-man being the most prominent. The Monarch is
a powerful one when in eruption, and the New Crater, one of
moderate intensity, has a highly-colored and very attractive
crater. The Ink Well is an object of much attention from
tourists.
After luncheon an hour or an hour and a half is usually
given to "doing" the basin afoot, and the coaches are boarded
at a rustic pavilion at the farther side of the formation. The
afternoon ride introduces the tourist to two of the largest of
the streams in the Park — the Gibbon River, named in honor
of Gen. John Gibbon, and the Firehole River. The junction of
these streams, within the limits of the Park, forms the Madison
River, one of the three streams forming the Missouri.
The ride along the Gibbon River with, first, its continuous
cascades and one or two diminutive geysers, then its wide,
open, mountain-bordered park, where the elk are said to
resort during the winter, and finally its winding, palisaded
canon, is one of the very attractive features of the Park
coaching trip.
On the mountain, at the head of the Gibbon Canon and
across the stream to the right — the West — and a thousand
feet above it lies Monument Geyser Basin, a most interest-
ing, if rather cemeterial spot, to be seen as a side- trip from
Norris Basin.
About midway of the canon Gibbon Fall, a fan-shaped
fall, eighty feet high, is passed. The water in a thin sheet
glissades down the black volcanic rock, producing a very
pleasing effect.
The Cascades of the Firehole are a series of rapids seen
from the coach, and much better from the rock projections of
V.
JB
5T-...S..
the river bank, where the road first touches the Firehole
River. The Firehole is larger than the Gibbon, and, in some
respects, prettier. The clarity of the deep waters and the
beauty of the vegetable growths seen in their depths, appeal
irresistibly to one's esthetic tastes. The name "Firehole"
comes from the fact that the locality was known among the
old mountain men as the "Burnt Hole," due to an extensive
forest fire that swept the region, and Chittenden gives this
as the origin of the name of the river.
After crossing Nez Perce Creek, a two-mile ride across an
old geyser formation, the outskirts of Lower Geyser Basin,
ends the forty-mile drive and houses the traveler in the Foun-
tain Hotel, a homelike, roomy, modern hotel possessed of all
the comforts and conveniences.
Lower Geyser Basin
As one for the first time gazes out upon the weird surround-
ings, he is overcome with astonishment. Is the land under
the spell of a malevolent curse or is one himself the victim of
some diabolic incantation? Devastation so stalks abroad
that it is almost impossible to believe that one is indeed in
the flesh and looking out upon a real, tangible scene. But
the illusion passes.
Much space could be used in describing the multitude of
objects to be seen at this point, and the wise man and woman
will plan to remain at the Fountain Hotel from one to several
days to see them. In plain view from the hotel and but a
short walk distant, are the Fountain and Clepsydra geysers,
Mammoth Paint Pots, and a hot spring whose sulphur waters
are piped to the hotel and used for baths.
The Fountain Geyser is as beautiful an example of its class
as is Old Faithful of the cone geysers. It projects huge masses
of water in spasmodic impulses, or eruptions, plays at inter-
N O R/T H E R, X PACIFIC
vals. of about four hours, and for fifteen minutes at a time.
The Paint Pots are Nature's mush pools— a strange, boil-
ing, plopping caldron of beautifully colored clay that holds
one with peculiar fascination.
Regarding the Paint Pots and the Fountain Geyser, Mary
C. Ludwig has written of them in the Pittsburg Press as
follows :
"After we have eaten
^tffi dinner we find that
the Fountain Hotel
is literally sur-
rounded with
geysers and hot
springs. A very
interesting phe-
nomenon is the
Ma mm oth
Paint Pots.
The main
pot or
basin is
• rhaps
forty by sixty feet and its contents consist of a mass of a
whitish, mortar-like substance which boils continuously after
the manner of a huge pot of mush. On one side of the basin
is a rose-colored flat, seamed and cracked like a dried -up
swamp, dotted with cones of various tints of pink, interspersed
with a few cones of Quaker gray.
"Turning from this new 'prodigy we pass a few rods farther
to the west to await the eruption of the Fountain Geyser.
It has a crater thirty feet in diameter. We had thought the
Norris Basin weird and uncanny, but as we stand near the
verge of this' chasm, watching the furious boiling of the water,
T H FL, Q U G H W O N D E R^ L A N D
The Great, or Lower Fall of the Yellowstone — 310 Feet high
oftentimes thrown vi i and s
about until the sur
ing to the
underfoot, until it really the den
Hades id holding nig':
Norris dwindli
\wful a: • vllbound. Finally, with a
' terrible shriek, the whole boiling, angr
upward some twenty
v
;vn thir
fort)
and the volume
of water, spray,
and steam pre-
sents to our
astonished gaze
a sight that
seems not of the
earth earthly.'1
At a distance of two miles there is a collecti >ools,
springs, and geysers that one can study and admire for days.
Prominent among these are Mushroom, Buffalo, Surp
and the Five Sisters pools. The variety of color,
character to be seen among these modest, beautiful expressions
of nature is surprising an be interpreted by printed
words. The soul of Nature her-
but in soul language alone. Of all th jects the Great
Fountain Geyser is the chief. .
The Fountain Geyser is, in a way, a replica of the Great
Fountain, the latter being, however, a much
ful, and larger geyser than t: The <
Firehote River and
Geyser Steam Columns
f*
TH R
,O U
G H
W
O N
D E
FL.L
A N
D
H
Geyser is a leviathan among geysers, playing to a height of
100 feet and from thirty to forty-five minutes, or even longer,
at a time. It is supposed to have an eruption about every
nine hours, but it is a trifle erratic both as to its schedule and
duration of eruption. No one who cares for geyser phenomena
should fail to see this magnificent fountain.
In a shallow ravine, or draw, near the Great Fountain, is
a string of water pearl pools of exquisite beauty, and northwest
from the geyser is another collection. The thing of particular
interest among those at the latter point is Firehole Lake, one
of the most peculiar objects in this peculiar land. A light,
bluish flame seems to issue from the depths of the pool, and
the effect of this, as it comes gliding to the surface, is most
striking. It is no flame, however, but, undoubtedly, is a gas
from the heated rocks or caverns below.
The entire Lower Basin is replete with interesting thermal
springs. Along the banks of the Firehole River there are
hundreds of them.
In the direction of the river and half or three-quarters of
a mile from the hotel is the spot where the Cowan party were
taken prisoners by Chief Joseph and the Nez Perce Indians
in their raid across the country in 1877.
Midway Geyser Basin
From the Fountain Hotel one can always see, toward the
southwest, at a distance of four miles, heavy vaporous clouds
rising high into the heavens. There, in a narrow, hill-
bordered valley, small in superficial area, are Excelsior
Geyser, Prismatic Lake, and Turquoise Spring.
The geyser, when in activity, is the greatest one in the
Park, possibly in the world-. Of the explosive, or Fountain
class of geysers, it is beyond question the finest example. It
is a water volcano when in eruption, but its periods of
NO
H E
PACIFIC R^AILWAY
inactivity are prolonged and it gives little or no preliminary
sign, usually breaking forth unceremoniously and with great
violence. It courteously, however, continues in periodical
activity for a year or two once it has awakened from its
lethargy. It has not been in action since 1888 but is liable
to break forth at any time. When in eruption it plays to a
height of 250 feet.
As Excelsior is the greatest geyser, so is Prismatic Lake
the largest and, perhaps, the most beautiful spring, of its
kind, in the world. It is about 250 by 300 feet in size, clouds
of steam constantly rise from it, and the rainbow is fairly
rivalled by the richness and variety of color that are found
in its hot waters and around its scalloped and clifflet edges.
Turquoise Spring is similar to Prismatic Pool and from
one-third to one-half as large. Its -name indicates the pre-
vailing color, which grades and changes into numerous others.
The geyser and the two pools are close together on a geyserite
plain on the western bank of Firehole River into which they
all discharge, and the coaches stop at a convenient platform
for tourists to get out and see them.
Upper Geyser Basin
A short, nine-mile drive from the Fountain Hotel and the
coaches are whirling through the most peculiar pocket, or
valley, in the world, to the portals of the most unique hotel in
the world. The valley is the Upper Geyser Basin ; the hotel
is Old Faithful Inn described elsewhere in this chapter.
. Charles Warren Stoddard, in the Ave Maria for September,
1898, gives a realistic picture of this spot that will be appre-
ciated by those who have themselves seen it.
"After our siesta we went forth refreshed. In the great
basin below us fountains were playing — natural fountains
tipped with plumes of steam. These fountains sprang gaily
m
& •'• H ";•'>'••..: ':"v;-"; $$
.,-v: . - i:n ":
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mmmW( J »<;> i^ **Wv ?p4 ^ ;
a m
W. v;:tef; ^Op^aS
THROUGH
W N
NQR^THEtCN PACIFIC FL.AILWAY [(
into the air. h spnr
subsided. Some of them wer •• a few minutes only;
but some towered like columns that crumble while they stand,
reeling and tottering, wreathed in thin dra
twenty minutes <>r more. We could hear the rumbling in
the earth, the hoarse growl in the throats of these fountains,
.and the splash of tru ; nding flood. We could sec1 the
torrents that poured from their basins and cascaded over the
bed of the valley- it was like a bed of cement kcp; and
warm — and tumbled headlong in boiling waves t< >ward the river
which received them all.
"Old Faithful, the pet geyser 'of the Upper Basin, is situ-
ated only a few rods from the hotel. You hear him splashing
in the night; and if you have kept your reckoning, can actu-
ally tell the hour, he is so regular in his action. Xever was a
geyser better named.''
This place of geysers is the center of curiosity in the Park,
without doubt. While the Grand Canon holds us under a
spell by the opulence of its color and the grandeur of its sculp-
ture and is most surely the piece dc resistance, so to write, of
the Park, yet canons, in one form or another, are more familiar
to us than geysers, and the latter are, besides, a form of phe-
nomena most rare and, to a degree, inconceivable.
At the lower end of the valley are the Fan, Mortar, and
Riverside geysers; at the extreme upper end, sole monarch
of his domain, is Old Faithful Geyser. Every tourist loves
Old Faithful. It reigns at the head of its mountain-girt valley,
steadfast, punctual, giving a full measure of service and
challenges the homage and affection of every lover of nature.
For countless centuries, possibly, it rendered its hourly tribute
to nature alone, and now, year after year, it gives joy to the
throngs of humanity who .wend their way to its inspiring
presence. Every sixty-five or seventy minutes this geyser
/*;
is in eruption to a, height varying from 100 to 150 feet. It is
the geyser of the Park, all things considered.
The Riverside, on the bank. of the Firehole River, is in
eruption every few hours and, when not materially affected by
the wind, throws an arch of water across the river. One of
the features of this geyser is a rainbow that always is seen
during eruption.
Between the Riverside and Old Faithful geysers, scattered
along both sides of the beautiful Firehole River, are found the
remaining geysers of the basin.
The Giant, with its huge shattered horn, fractured at some
period of thermal exuberance, and the Grotto, a veritable
puzzle of projections and angles in its fantastic, cavern-like
cone, stand near together, twin monuments typifying the
unique nature of the spot. The former plays to a height
of 250 feet when at its best; the latter "splashes and lunges
about unwieldily to a height of thirty to forty feet.
The Oblong, farther up the river bank, has an open, obloiag
crater studded with massive, wonderful geyserite beads, or
nodules, all beautifully colored in rather soft neutral tints.
Across the road from these three are the Comet and Splendid,
the latter, when in eruption, being, perhaps, the most graceful
of all geysers, but in recent years it is rarely in operation.
Following up the valley there are found, on the right bank,
a great many hot pools and several geysers, prominent among
the latter being the. Sawmill, Economic, Turban, and Grand,
the last, one of the finest in the Park. The Grand often plays
several times in quick succession to a height equalling that of
Old Faithful which, to some extent, it resembles. The
Economic plays every few minutes and, while a small geyser,
it is a favorite one. The Castle, characteristically named by
the Washburn party, is a great geyser — upon occasions. Its
cone is massive and intensely interesting, and its eruption,
NOR/TH E
PACIFIC FL.AI LWAY
consisting about equally of steam and water, does not reach
higher than from fifty to seventy-five feet, usually; again it
plays magnificently to a height of 200 feet or more, the steam
rising majestically to a height of several hundred feet.
Easily seen from Old Faithful Inn are the Beehive, Lion,
Lioness and Cubs, (the last three a congenial family) , and the
Giantess geysers,
with many pools
boiling and
splashing
away night
and day. The
Beehive is the
most s y m -
The Big Porch
Old Faithful Inn
metric geyser
in the world.
It is quite un-
like any other
in its style < >f
eruption. 1 1
usually plays
for about ten minutes and to a height of 200 feet or
more. Its crater, cone, or pedestal, resembles an old-
fashioned beehive. The Lion is a pleasing geyser, and its
leonine mate and babies are interesting in their way. The
Giantess is an Amazon. She holds herself well in hand for
two weeks and then comes a violent eructation that resembles
an explosion of artillery. The geyser has no cone, but a deep
well instead, and every drop of water is hurled forth at the
initial propulsion — for there are several of them at stated inter-
vals— followed by the liberation of pent-up steam which rushes
forth in huge masses and with a roar that is heard throughout
the basin.
T H
-1 WONDERLAND
"* " - - -' "-. '-. " J
The Pinnacles and Towers of the Grand Canyon — The Climax of Grande
^3r.:~.
^JS^?V~-j -;-;-•• .-
Farther away from the hotel the eruptions of the mighty
Giant Geyser, the Grand, ana others are, to a considerable
degree, visible. Often these distant eruptions are exhibitions
of unusual grandeur and majesty.
I quote a part of a very characteristic description of the
Upper Geyser Basin by Kipling:
"The first mound that I encountered belonged to a goblin
who was splashing in his tub. I heard him kick, pull a
shower bath on his shoulders, gasp, crack his joints, and rub
himself with a towel; then he let the water out of the bath,
as a thoughtful man should, and it all sank down out of sight
till another goblin arrived
"Yet they called this place the Lioness and the Cubs. It
lies not very far from the Lion, which is a sullen, roaring beast,
and they say that when it is very active the other geysers
presently follow suit.
"After Krakatoa all the geysers went mad together, spout-
ing, spurting, and bellowing till men feared that they would
rip up the whole field. Mysterious sympathies exist among
them and when the Giantess speaks they all hold their peace.
She is a woman.
"I was watching a solitary spring, well within the line of
the woods, catching at a pine branch overhead, when far
across the fields and not more than a quarter of a mile from
the hotel there stood up a plume of spun glass, incandescent
and superb, against, the sky.
'"That,' said the trooper, 'is Old Faithful.' * * *
"So we looked and we wondered at the Beehive, whose
mouth is built up exactly like a hive, at the Turban, and at
many, many other geysers, hot holes, and springs. Some of
them rumbled, some hissed, some went off spasmodically, and
others lay dead still in sheets of sapphire and beryl."
Nearby, on Iron Creek, there are several remarkably.
i
K
:
^
i
T H
FL.O
U G
H
W
O N
0 E R.
.LAN
D
m
''fte
•:~f
beautiful pools. These are the Black Sand pool, or basin, a
lovely green hot spring rimmed with black obsidian sand and
having a ribboned and variegated outlet; Sunset Lake, a
large, steaming lakelet whose serrated, wandering edges are
ablaze with color in which every gradation of red seems to
have been put on to try the effect which is, indeed, ravishing.
In juxtaposition and
strong contrast lies
Emerald Pool, not *
' . x
quite so large as the ^ ,^ v
Sunset and its name
betokening the color
scheme. It is as
perfect as is the
other, many will say
more so, the scal-
loped rim of the
pool and the shelv-
ing bottom being
ornamented and tinted
far beyond man's ability to
even conceive let alone enact.
On the divide leading from the geysers to this isolated
retreat stands the Punch Bowl, an elevated spring that
boils furiously and that has an ornate rim highly colored in
yellow and saffron, with an infusion of reds.
Besides these more important objects the Upper Basin
is filled with many smaller, sputtering geysers and springs, it
being impossible to move any distance in any direction with-
out encountering some phase of hydrotherrnal activity.
In the early morning the basin presents a most remarkable
appearance. Thousands of steam columns and clouds are
rising from the pools filling the air with their white vapor and
Pelicans at
Yellowstone Lake
changing the valley into one of enchantment. The moonlight
vision with geysers in eruption is another transformation long
to be remembered, while the effect of the giant search-light
from the roof of Old Faithful Inn, when turned upon Old
Faithful Geyser, is sure to provoke profound admiration for
one of the most beautiful pictures imaginable.
A most interesting locality, really an annex to the Upper
Basin and visited by the coaches en route thereto, is Biscuit
Basin, a mile distant from Old Faithful Inn. Sapphire Pool,
Silver Globe Spring, and some marvelous geyserite biscuits
are a few of a hundred or more very rare objects to be seen
at this spot. Another side trip, to Lone Star Geyser, should
be made. This geyser stands alone on the banks of the
Firehole River about four miles from Old Faithful Inn. It
is well worth seeing. The geyser plays at intervals of from
thirty minutes to two hours to a height of fifty or sixty feet,
and its cone, a quite large and high one, is one of the most
delicately beautiful in the Park.
Across the Continental Divide
Between the Upper Geyser Basin and Yellowstone Lake
rises the Continental Divide, an irregular line of mountains
that divides the drainage of the region, sending part of it
through the Yellowstone and Missouri rivers into the Atlan-
tic, the remainder through the Snake and Columbia rivers to
the Pacific, Ocean.
Leaving Old Faithful Inn the road ascends through the
forest along the Firehole River until Spring Creek is
reached, passing Keppler Cascade, somewhat similar to the
Cascades of the Firehole. Winding, then, through Spring
Creek Canon, a secluded little gorge, the Continental Divide, is
first reached at Isa Lake, elevation, 8,250 feet, a small pond
covered with water-lilies. The spot is a wild and lonely glen
4
\
THROUGH WOTSTDEFCLAND
in the very grip of the mountains, known in the topography
of the Park as Craig Pass.
At Shoshone Point, a wide, beautiful view of timbered
mountains, grassy vale, and sleeping lake is unfolded, culmi-
nating with the three snow-covered peaks of the giant, snow-
covered Tetons, fifty miles away, in the distance.
The Divide, once more crossed, the road then descends
along the forest-shaded mountain side to the lunch station
at the west arm of the lake, the scene changing as the coach
changes direction.
The Continental Divide, within the Park, is not particu-
larly altitudinous, its general elevation being, on an average,
perhaps, about 8,500 feet.
Yellowstone Lake
Aside from the fact of its high altitude, 7,741 feet, and its
actual navigability, Yellowstone Lake
is interesting for itself. It is a
lovely sheet of water, very irreg-
ular in form,
prolific in1
sharp in-
dentations,
and its
shores are
heavily
wooded.
The water
is of a beau-
tiful color,
moderate
in depth, cold, abundant itl salmon trout, and the lake is
appropriately framed in by the mountains.
Yellowstone Lake
and Absaroka
Mountains
.<:..:. •!,.
2Sii*»
NOR-/TH E
PACIFIC FL.AILWAY
The lake is about twenty miles long and sixteen miles in
width and it has a shore-line of about one hundred miles.
Its average depth is about thirty feet with a maximum of
300 feet. The lake is one of very few in the world of as large
an area at such an altitude.
The west arm is a wide and calm sheet of water, except
when wind swept, joining -the main body between two low,
long, and heavily wooded points. The noble Absaroka Range
bounds the distant eastern horizon, and is a fine, notched,
high range, a fitting border to the lake, its upper heights
entirely bare of forests. On the lake shore at the lunch station
are some beautiful paint pots, many and varied hot pools, and
two or three geysers. T\vo of these pools are the deepest in
the Park, apparently, and the elfins of these paint pots dance
higher and cut more lovely figures in their gyrations than do
those at the Lower Geyser Basin.
At this point on the western shore is found the hot spring
cone, by many regarded as purely mythical, where the angler
catches a trout in the lake, and, without moving, flops him
into the boiling water of the pool and in a twinkling cooks
him. This is all entirely true. In early summer, when the
park season first opens, the rapidly-melting snows in the
mountains cause the lake to be, usually, quite high, and this
particular hot spring cone and pool which the tourist, later,
sees, is apt to be nearly or quite overflowed by the lake.
Subsequently, when it is well out of the water, it forms a
very conspicuous object.
From the lunch station at the west arm the government
road to Jackson Lake and the Three Tetons country leads
southward past Lewis Lake and down Lewis River.
The view from the porches and rooms of the stately
Colonial Hotel near the outlet of Yellowstone Lake is one of
quiet, peace, and beauty. The large lake stretches out and
&
away far, far into the mountains, the striking irregularities
and sinuosities of its shore-line being plainly visible. Steven-
son Island lies almost within a stone's throw and little Dot
Island shows faintly in the western haze down toward the
southwestern shore in line with Flat Mountain and Mount
Sheridan. The southeastern arm, or finger, can be plainly
traced as it winds in among the high peaks and table-lands of
the Absaroka Range far to the southeast. There, beneath the
shadows and slopes of Colter Peak, Table Mountain, Turret
Peak, and Two Ocean Plateau, the Upper Yellowstone River,
fresh from the high
Rockies, expands
into this charming
body of water.
An interesting
sight from the
hotel porch is that
of two or three
large, white peli-
cans that in state-
ly, dignified man-
ner swim slowly
back and forth as if purposely on exhibition.
Folsom, one of the first white men to see the lake, among
modern visitors, paid the following tribute to it in 1869:
"As we were about departing on our homeward trip we
ascended the summit of a neighboring hill and took a final
look at Yellowstone Lake. Nestled among the forest-crowned
hills which bounded our vision, lay this inland sea, its crystal
waves dancing and sparkling in the sunlight as if laughing
with joy for their wild freedom. It is a scene of transcendent
beauty which has been viewed by but few white men, and we
felt glad to have looked upon it before its primeval solitude
58
Moonlight on Yellowstone Lake
.;•-"•''
-
should be broken by the crowds of pleasure seekers which at
no distant day will throng its shores."
At various points along the shore, besides those seen be-
tween the west arm lunch station and the hotel, there are
dead or living evidences of hot springs action, showing how
widely distributed is this feature of the Park phenomena.
The Natural Bridge within three or four miles of the hotel
and passed by the coaches en route, will repay a visit from
those who stop over a few days at this point. The bridge is
a natural arch of rock spanning a small run.
To the Grand Canon
Leaving the beautiful lake and its delightful hotel, the
road folknvs the windings of the Yellowstone River, by all
odds the noblest stream in the Park and one of the largest
and most important in the West. Just half-way between
Yellowstone Lake and the canon are found two or three
extremely interesting objects. The most important one is
Mud Volcano, generally but incorrectly termed Mud Geyser.
The original Mud Geyser is situated just above the volcano
and beside the road, as the river runs, and both these objects
were discovered and named by the Washbum party.
The volcano is, really, almost the only thing of its sort in
the Park on a large scale, and it impresses persons variously.
To some it is a very uncanny, perhaps repulsive, but very
interesting object, nevertheless ; to others it is, in a way. even
fascinating. When discovered (in 1870), the volcano was
very active and threw mud entirely clear of its basin and over
the surrounding trees. Then for years it quieted clown to the
state in which it is now usual!}' seen. It has once or twice
since discovery renewed, for short intervals, its excessive
vitality. It is always belching and throwing thick, roily
water and mud, from the bottom of a cave-like funnel against
'
u
9
T H
R^O U
G H
W
O N
D E K.
.LAN
D
m
The Rapids of the Yellowstone River — From the Brink of the Upper Fall
N PA
the sides of th .vails. Explosion follows explo-
sion; the brown, oily, mushy-looking mass of liquid mud is
projected in all directions in strong currents and large, boiling
bubbles, and from it the steam rises in swirling wreaths, and
steamy odors assail the nostrils.
A few rods beyond the volcano, about on a level with the
road, at the extremity of a- little gulch and reached by well-
tramped trails, is one of the secluded gems of the Park— what
I call the Gothic Grotto. The first reference to it was by
Lieutenant Doane, in 1870, and he well described it and called
it the Grotto. An aper-
ture in the hillside
a few feet in size
is filled with the
clearest of water,
and continuous
explosions, ex-
actly similar to
those of the vol-
cano, keep
it constantly
agitated in
its pebbly
basin. At some periods not a drop of water escapes from
the pool, at other times a small stream issues from it. The
entrance is a symmetric, pointed, gothic-like one of rock,
eight or ten feet high by five or six feet in width at its base.
The rock on the underside is white, on the outside mostly a
strong metallic green, with green splotches at places under-
neath. The combination is exceedingly dainty and effective
and a great contrast to the dismal volcano.
This is the place where the Xez Perce Indians, under Chief
Joseph, in their raid across Montana and the Park in 1877,
The Yellowstone
Rapids
Concrete Bridge
in Distance
fl
'-.->
Q
T H
R.O
U G
H
W O N D E R.
,L A
N
D
5
crossed the Yellowstone River on their way out of the Park.
And now we see a strange thing. The peculiar design
used by the Northern Pacific Railway for a trade mark is
taken from an ancient Chinese diagram known as the Great
Monad and is many centuries old. A peculiar meaning and
history attaches to it. As Trout Creek in Hayden Valley is
reached, down below in a pocket of the turfy plain, the creek,
flowing in beautiful convolutions, has worked out an almost
perfect and symmetric image of the Northern Pacific trade-
mark. The two large, central commas of the design, known
to the Chinese as the Yang and Yin, and shown in the body of
the trademark in red and black or white and black, are
strongly brought out, and the trademark symbol can easily
be traced on the ground.
Crossing Hayden Valley, named for Dr. F V. Hayden, and
the most lovely and largest valley in the Park, we soon reach
the rapids of the Yellowstone River above the Upper Fall.
Just above the latter stands the new and graceful concrete
Melan arch bridge across the river. This bridge, which cost
$20,000, with the new road, down the south side of the canon,
enables tourists to visit Artist's Point, so called because
Thomas Moran is supposed to have painted the magnificent
picture of the Grand Canon of the Yellowstone which hangs
in the Capitol at Washington, from that point. Mr. Moran
recently stated that this idea was an erroneous one, that his
painting was not made from the south side.
The Grand Canon and Falls
The tourist draws near the Grand Canon of the Yellow-
stone on the keenest edge of expectancy. The quiet ride
from the lake allows time to review, mentally, the events of
the days preceding and thus prepares one for the final act of
the scenic drama that is at hand.
Yellowstone Lake plays an important part in the evolution
of the park tour. Coming between the geysers and the canon
it serves to change the current of one's reflections and to soothe
the emotions, so that the mind is the better able to grasp the
real meaning of the canon and to enter into the full enjoyment
of its magnificence and grandeur.
In magnitude there are many greater canons than this.
The Yosemite is two and a half times the depth of the Yellow-
stone and the Grand Canon of the Colorado is five times as
deep, ten times as long, and perhaps as many times wide.
Each of these two is perfect of its type, but each is as radically
different from each other as both are diverse from the Yellow-
stone. The latter is unquestionably the most perfect thing
of its kind and is in a category by itself.
The Grand Canon of the Yellowstone is, all told, about
twenty miles long, 1,200 feet deep, and 2,000 feet wide. This
gives, in a general way, its superficial dimensions. There are
about four, or at most five, miles of it that the tourist usually
sees and these constitute the most attractive part of the gorge.
The moment that one stands on the brink of this remark-
able chasm and gazes upon the scene, one recognizes the utter
impotency of words to describe it. Xeither photography nor
pigments can reproduce it. No other gorge in the world has
the singularly refined yet ornate and involved sculpturing that
is seen here. Xo other gorge exhibits such a riot and wanton-
ness of color as does this. And strange to tell ther -feet
harmony and congruity, no violence is done to any canon of
art. Various figures of speech, similes, and com]):; -ive
been used to express in some comprehensible way what one
here sees. But all to no avail!
The mental condition of most persons as they first gaze
upon this profound scene -canon, falls, and river, with their
amazing colors and sculptures — is well stated by Mr. Langford :
fc.
ta
k
\
k- ¥*•*•- f I**'
^m;mm
G H
"Wednesday, August 31, 1870 — This has been a 'red
letter' day with me, and one which I shall not soon forget,
for my mind is clogged and my memory confused by what
I have to-day seen. * * * We are all overwhelmed with
astonishment and wonder at what we have seen, and we feel
that we have been near the very presence of the Almighty.
General Washburn has just quoted from the psalm :
'When I consider thy heavens, the work of thy fingers,* *
What is man that thou art mindful of him ?'
"My own mind is so confused that I hardly know where to
commence in making a clear record of what is at this moment
floating past my mental vision. I cannot confine myself
to a bare description of the falls of the Yellowstone alone,
for these two great cataracts are but one feature in a scene
composed of so many of the elements of grandeur and sub-
limity, that I almost despair of giving to those who on our
return home will listen to a recital of our adventures, the
faintest conception of it. The immense canon, or gorge of
rocks through which the river descends, perhaps more than
the falls, is calculated to fill the. observer with feelings of
mingled awe and terror."
As stated, the strength and power of the Grand Canon of
the Yellowstone are not in its superficial dimensions. It
is in the profound sculpture work and the transcendent, glori-
fied color scheme that they are to be found. The chiseling of
the walls is not confined, alone, to large figures and buttresses,
but the enormous and involved amount of work exhibited in
the details commands our admiration and takes us by sur-
prise. Every tower, buttress, salient, recess, cliff, rampart,
and wall is elaborately and minutely embellished. The mul-
tiplicity of such work and its .overwhelming effect is scarcely
conceivable' until one actually beholds it. And then one
And what of the canon colors? Such wild
stands aghast!
^
TSr
N O FL,T HEFCN PACIFIC
and riotous and yet perfectly harmonious combinations could
only be conceived by the brain of Deity. To stand at Grand
View and, for the first time, gaze upon the glaring, royal
welter of color which enfolds the great gulf beneath is to shock
one into silence, to cause one to hold one's breath. Artists
stand appalled and enthralled at the wonderful color harmony,
and well the)' may.
Rev. Dr. E. P. Hill of the Presbyterian church thus ex-
presses the effect that the canon produced upon him:
"Here to the left all along are turrets and castles and
cathedrals, there a Parthenon, over there St. Mark's glittering
in gold, there Taj Mahal, as white as spotless alabaster.
Colors green and brown and saffron and orange and pink and
vermillion and russet cover everv rock until the scene is
*
bewildering. What shall one say as he looks upon such a
scene? Nature teaches us about God. Then the Grand
Canon has been cut and painted by the divine hand as if to
give us some idea of John's vision of heaven. Walls of jasper,
streets of gold, gates of pearl, foundation stones of emerald
and sapphire, and topaz and amethyst. Yes, they are all
there. Who can look upon such a scene and say there is no
God in heaven?"
The two colors which dominate and give character to the
scene are the yellows and reds. They are found in all grada-
tions and mixtures. White, clean, and pure, and again weath-
ered into dull grays and browns, forms a prominent part of
the scheme. Green, lavender, and black are found and the
blue of the sky overhead adds an emphasis to the phenomenal
scene.
Geikie, the great geologist of England, has written:
"In the sunlight of the morning the place is a blaze of
strange color, such as one can hardly see anywhere save in
the crater of an active volcano. But as the dav wanes, the
3
T
H-r>
lx_
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G H
\V
O N
D E R.
.LAN
D
m
tf.
shades of evening sinking gently into the depths, blend their
livid tints into a strange mysterious gloom."
Kipling touched upon one of the most beautiful effects to
be noted when he penned :
"Evening crept through the pines that shadowed us, but
the full glory of the day flamed in that canon as we went out
very cautiously to a jutting piece of rock — blood red or
pink it was — that overhung the deepest deeps of all. Now
I 'know what it is to sit en-
throned amid the clouds of
sunset . ' ' The excavation of
this remarkable canon has
been accomplished by the
same agency operative in
other canons, namely,
erosion. Steam and heat
have aided the usual
factors of erosion
to produce the high,
varied, and rich
coloring with which
the walls are em-
blazoned. Through
the decomposition
and disintegration of the rhyolitic rock walls the usual sculp-
tural effects have been greatly accentuated, and in the process
of decomposition heat has effected chemical changes in the
rock that have produced the vivid and lurid canon walls.
The magnificent river that, in a frenzy of white tinged with
the natural green of the water, goes tearing over its rocky
bottom in a succession of rapids and falls, heightens the
grandeur of the scene. Then, looking from most of the pro-
jecting angles of the walls toward the head of the canon the
At the Bottom
of the
Grand Canon
PACIFIC
Lower, or Greater, Fall adds a most dignified and majestic
presence to the picture.
Important adjuncts are the Upper Fall and the glorious
rapids just above it. These are less than a mile above the
Lower Fall and are really a part of the canon proper, although
the word "grand" can, perhaps, not justly be applied to the
gorge above the Lower Fall. The two falls, the Upper, 112,
the Lower 310, feet high, are as unlike as can be imagined.
The upper one goes pitching over the brink in a most exultant
sort of a way while the other drops into the chasm in a noble,
regal manner, the embodiment of repose and dignity. Each
fall may be reached by trail and road from the Canon Hotel.
"Both of these cataracts deserve to be ranked among the
great waterfalls of the continent. Every great cascade has a
language and an idea peculiarly its own, embodied, as it were,
in the flow of its waters. So the Upper Fall of the Yellowstone
may be said to embody the idea of 'momentum' and the
Lower Fall of 'gravitation' ," wrote Lieutenant Doane, of the
\Vushburn party, who thought the Upper Fall much the finer.
In the Overland Monthly for May, 1871, Walter Trumbull,
also of the Washburn party, thus referred to the Great, or
Lower, Fall:
"The volume of water is about half as great as that which
passes over the American Fall, at Niagara and it falls
more than twice the distance. The adjacent scenery is
infinitely grander. Having passed over the precipice, the
r, unbroken, greenish. is in an instant transformed
by the jagged edges of the precipice, into many streams, appar-
ently separated, yet still united, and having the appearance of
molten silver. These streams, or jets, are shaped like a comet,
with nucleus and trailing coma, following in quick succession;
or they look like foaming, crested tongues, constantly over-
lapping each other. In the sunlight, a rainbow constantly
OUG1 WONDIR^LAND
Electric Peak — 11,155 feet high— Seen from Official Entrance at Gardiner
1SJ&
NOR/THER^N PACIFIC FLAIL\V
Two side trips here are of
across the new bridge at the
spans the chasm. The foot of the falls is enveloped in mist,
which conceals the river for more than a hundred yards below.
These falls are exactly the same in height as the Vernal Falls
in the Yosemite Valley, but the volume of water is at least
five times as great/'
particular interest. One is
rapids and down the new
road to Artist's Point, before
mentioned. The other is by
the new road to the summit
of Mount Washburn. This
latter trip will occupy a
day and will afford the
tourist an entirely new sen-
sation. The road is a fine,
winding, mountain road
revealing new vistas at
even' turn. The eastern and
northeastern part of the Park
a re b r o u g h t into view and
paH°aco!"9the Yellowstone Lake and the Three
Road Home Tetons to the south, and Electric
Peak and Cinnabar Mountain to the north, are seen. The
elevation is 10,000 feet, and the view is quite unlike any other
in the Park and opens to the tourist's vision an entirely new
region.
Leaving the canon on the return route to Mammoth Hot
Springs the road ascends to the plateau above the canon and
falls. It then forms an artificial pathway through the pine
forest, passing Virginia Cascade and the Devil's Elbow to
Xorris Geyser Basin, thence retracing the outbound road
to the Springs and railway. It forms a quiet yet pleasing
termination to the most varied and unique trip in the world.
Northern Pacific Railway Representatives
Of the Passenger, Immigration and Freight Departments, are located in 'the leading cities of
the United States. Fur any details with reference to fares, train service, connections, descriptive
literature, or information relative to the territory served by its lines, or any facts which will aid in
planning your trip, call on or address
Aberdeen and Hoquiam, Wash. 221 E. Heron St.. Aberdeen
Phone M 7002 . . . . M. H. Williams General Agent
Atlanta, Ga i o North Pryor St. M. J. Costello Trav. Pass. Agent
Bellingham, Wash., 1222 Dock St., Phones, Sunset M 92
Home A 602 A. N. Bussing. . . .City Frt. & Pass. Agt.
Billings, Mont Montana Ave. & 28th St J. E. Spurling General Agent
Phones Mutual 1346, Bell ,338 Gco. F. Knight Trav. Frt. Agent
Boston, Mass. . . . 207 Old South Bldg., Phone M. 3101 .... C. E. Foster. . . Dist. Pass. A;;ent
F. W. Clemson .... New Eng. Frt. Agt.
Bufialo.N. Y 215 Ellieuu Sq., Phones Seneca 948. . . . Wm. G. Mason Dist. Pass. Agt.
Frontier 1548 M. O. Barnard. .Gen. Agt. Frt. Dept.
Butte, Mont. . . .Park and Main Sis., Bell 73, Ind. 1534. . . W. H. Merriman . Div. Frt. & Pass. Agt.
Chicago. ,208 S. Clark St.. Passenger Phone, Central 341 C. A. Matthews. . .Gen. Agt. Pass. Dept.
Freight Phone, Central 3J2 J. C. Thompson Dist. Pass. Agt.
C. B. Sexton Gen. Agt. Frt. Dept. W. L. Wampler Trav. Frr. Agent
J. C. Herman Contracting Frt. Agent W. T. Kraft Trav. Frt. Agent
J. C. McCutchen. . . ' .ntracting Frt. Agt. H. F. Adams Trav. Frt. Agent
Alfred Sc". Agt. W. H. MillarU Trav. Frt. Agent
Gco. T. Foyes . . i'rav. Immigration Agt J. L. Daugherty Trav. Immigration Agt.
Cincinnati, Ohio. rth St., Phone M. 1882. . . . J.J.Gartner Trav. Pass. Agent
J. C. Eaton Trav. Immigration Agent A. H. Caffee Gen. Agt. Frt. Dept.
Des Moines, Ia.>2i2-2i4CenturyBldg.PhoneIowa i.so6M. . . . E. D. Rockwell. .... Dist. Pass. Agent
Detroit, Mich. M. ^32. . . W. H. Whitaker Dist. Pass. Agent
\V. E. Belcher ... - Trav. Frt. Agent Geo. Barnes Gen. Agt. Fr; .
Duluth, Minn. . ^ 54 W. Superior St., Both Phones 214 ... I. I. Thomas General Ai;t.nt
J. T. McKetu .City Pass. Agent John E. Caine Trav. Frt. Agent
Everett, Wash. . C. O. Martin General Agent
Helena, Mont. . .Main and Grand Sis., R.' M. Phone 5 . E. S. Richards General Agent
C. W. Mernlies. .Trav. Frt. & Pass. Agt.
Indianapolis, Ind. . . . 42 Jackson Place, Phone New 142 . W. E. Smith : Agent
Jamestown, N. D. . . . J. L. Burnham Trav. Frt. Agent
Kansas City, Mo S23 Main Sreet . . . H. B. Bryning. .Trav. Immigration Agt.
Lewiston, Idaho . . ' . W J. Jonui . . . .Genera1
Los Angeles, Cal. . S. Spring ;- W. McCaskey .General Agent
Milwaukee, Wis. . u6-i? Ry. Ex. Bldg. Phone M. 1X47- • M- E. Harlan. . . Dist. Pass. Agent
W. !•' tl C. T. Noonan Gen. Agt. Frt. Dept.
Miles City, Mont Station .I.G.Sanders Trav. Frt. Agent
Minneapolis, Minn. . K> Nicollet iilk. Phone N. W. s'>io. . . G. F. McNeil! City Pass. Agent
T. S. 114 J. C. Sirnonton. . . .Gen. Agt. Fr- .
Montreal.Que., Imp Bk. Bg. S: . G. W. Hardisty Dist. Pass. & Frt. Agt.
Hew York City.... 519 Broadway, Pho: -;•;.... W. F. Mershon. .Gen. Agt. Pass. Dept.
C. F. Seeger . .Gen. Agt. Frt. Dept.
Philadelphia, Pa. .711 Chestn;: in .P. W. Pummill Dist. Pass. Agent
B. M. Deck. Trav. Frt. Agent John S. Donal Gen. Agi . Frt. Dept.
Pittsburg, Pa. . . . 505 Park BMg., Phone Grant 1402 . . C. E.- Brison Dist. Pass. Agent
B. A. 11. Trav Fr;. Agent W. \V. Scully Gen. Agt. Frt. Dept.
Portland, Ore. Worcester Blk., Phone M. 5560, or A 1941.... F. H. Fogart y . . Asst. Gen. Frt. Agent
W. H. On i b .Trav. Frt. Agi-nt
Pt. Townsend, Wash. . . . ... .402 \Y: W L. Clark
Prince Rupert, B. C ! : gers Agent
San Francisco, Cal 683 Market St. . T. K. Stateler Gen. Agt. Pas
E. H. Forester. . Gen. Agt. Frt. Dept.
Seattle, Wash., ist Ave. & Yesler Way, Phones Sunset Mam
1430. Imi. A. Tinling. General Agent
J. O. M, Mullen City Pass. Agent C. M .Asst. General Agent
Spokane, Wash 701 Sprngite Ave., Main 4365 . . . H. N. Kennedy General Agent
W. II. Ude City Pass. Agent E. L. Hanke. Trav. Frt. Agent
Lee M. Conry Trav. Pass.
St. Louis, Mo. ..306 Mo. Tru .one M. 2732 . ... D. B. Gardner Dist.
R. J. T [Yav. Frt. Agent R. K. ..Gen. Agt. Frt. Dept.
St. Paul, Minn.,. 5th and Rob. c. ]>. O'Donneli City Pass. Agent
St. Paul, Minn., 4th an.; Phune N. W. 2^40. . C. L. Townsend Dist.' Pass. Agent
L. P. Gellerman Dist. Pass. Agent W M.Burk Contracting Frt. Agent
F. A. Hawlcy Gen. ; .-trading Fn .
John Runyon Trav. Freight Agent G. R. Merritt Gen. Agt. Refrg. Ser.
Superior, Wis.. . r Ave., Both Phones 4226 . . W. H. MitchelK Agent
Tacoma, Wash.. 925 Pacific Ave. C. B. Foster City Pass. Agent
ties Sunset 128, Home A i 2So Webb F. Sater Trav. Pass. Agent
Tacoma, Wash.. .. .021 Pacific Ave. Henry Blakeley. .Gen. Western Frt. Agt.
R. T. Bret/ . Gen. W. Frt. Agt. C. R. Lonergan Gen. Agt. Frt. Dept.
E. W. Cade Trav. Frt. Agent
Vancouver, B. C 430 Hastings St., Ph. me M 885 . H. Swinford General Agent
C. E. Lang City Pass. Agent
Victoria, B. C. Yates and Government Sts., Phone M 45<< . E. E. Blackwood General Agent
Wallace, Idaho Station, Phones Bell 20-2, Ida. 20. ... E. A. McKenna General Agent
Walla Walla, Wash ; E. Main St., Phone M i. . . . S. B. Calderhead General Agent
C. C. Burdick Trav. Freight Agent
Winnipeg, Man. 268 Portage Ave W. C. Hartnett General Agent
PORTLAND, ORE. 255 Morr ,nes M 244 or A
1244.... A. D. Charlton. .Asst. Gen. Pass. Agt.
ST. PAUL, MINN H. E. Still Asst. Gen. Frt. Agt.
Jno. C. Poore Asst. Gen. Pass. Agt. G. A. Mitchell A.sst. Gen. Frt. Agt.
L. J. Bricker Gen. Immigration Agt. W. E Alair Asst. Gen. Frt. Agt.
A. M. CLELAND, J. G. WOODWORTH, J. B. BAIRD,
General Passenger Agent Traffic Manager General Freight Agent
ST. PAUL, MINN. J; M. HANNAFORD. Second Vice-president ST- PAUL- M1XN.
«b ST. PAUL, MIXX.