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N PS  ARCHIVE 
1967 
FARRELL,  C. 


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'I  IWM  J;V!SL  AND  BOTTOM  RUCTION  SWCTS  ON 

WAVE  REFRACTION  AS  DETERMINED  BY 

NUMERICAL  WAVE  WEFRACTlON  PROCEDURES 

CHARLES  AUGUSTUS  FARRELL 


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TIDE-LEVEL  AND   BOTTOM-FRICTION  EFFECTS 
ON  WAVE    REFRACTION  AS   DETERMINED   BY 
NUMERICAL  WAVE   REFRACTION  PROCEDURES 

by 

Charles  Augustus  J'arrell,  Jr. 
Lieutenant,  United  States  Navy 
B.S.,  Naval  Academy,  1961 


Submitted  in  partial  fulfillment  of  the 
requirements  for  the  degree  of 

MASTER  OF  SCIENCE  IN  OCEANOGRAPHY 

from  the 

NAVAL  POSTGRADUATE  SCHOOL 
June  1967 


I  i\  <l  '.» !  -  i ■*  ■'  y  j>    u.  / 


ABSTRACT 

Numerical  wave  refraction  programs  permit  a  detailed  study  of  the 
transformation  of  wave  energy  as  waves  move  from  deep  water  to  shallow 
water.   By  eliminating  the  subjectivity  that  is  present  with  hand  drawn 
diagrams  the  effect  of  small  variations  in  the  initial  assumptions  and 
wave  conditions  can  be  investigated.   The  effects  on  wave  refraction  of 
tide  level  changes  and  bottom  friction  are  investigated  here.   It  is 
demonstrated  that  a  uniform  increase  in  water  level  as  would  be  caused 
by  tidal  fluctuations  can  cause  a  significant  change  in  the  wave  re- 
fraction pattern  for  a  given  nearshore  region.   A  computing  procedure 
is  developed  to  permit  numerical  refraction  programs  to  account  for 
bottom  friction.   The  reduction  in  wave  height  caused  by  bottom  friction 
depends  primarily  on  bottom  slope;  this  relation  is  shown  in  tabular 
and  graphical  form. 


TABLE  OF  CONTENTS 

Section  Page 

1.  Introduction  11 

2.  Computer  Program  13 
Depth  Grid  13 
Input  Data  13 
Computer  Output  15 
Computer  Operations  15 

3.  Effect  of  Tide  Level  Changes  on  Wave  Refraction           17 

Differences  in  Shoaling  Factor,  Wave  Speed,  and           17 
Ray  Curvature  at  Specific  Depths 

Differences  in  Wave  Refraction  Patterns  for  Specific  21 
Locations 

4.  Bottom  Friction  Effect  on  Wave  Height  30 
Introduction  to  Bottom  Friction  30 
Computing  Procedures  31 
Results  of  Bottom  Friction  Computations  33 

5.  Conclusions  38 

6.  Recommendations  39 

7.  Bibliography  41 

8.  Appendix  1   Computer  Program  42 

9.  Appendix  2   Sample  Input  and  Output  56 
10.      Appendix  3   Summary  of  Equations  59 


. 


LIST  OF  TABLES 

Table  Page 

I.      H/H  ratio  at  low  tide  and  high  tide  for  specific         23 
coastal  locations  near  Point  Sur,  California. 

II.      H/HQ  ratio  at  high  tide  and  low  tide  for  specific         23 
coastal  locations  near  Eastern  Head,  Maine. 

III. .     Wave  height  reduction  due  to  bottom  friction  as  34 

determined  by  Putnam  and  Johnson  and  by  the 
numerical  wave  refraction  program. 

IV.      Percent  reduction  of  wave  height  for  various  values       35 
of  TIME. 

V.      Wave  height  reduction  for  bottom  slopes  of  1:100  35 

to  1:400  and  wave  periods  of  8  to  16  seconds. 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS 

Figure  Page 

1.  Effect  on  wave  speed  of  varying  tide  levels  for  18 
8-16  second  waves. 

2.  Effect  on  ray  curvature  of  varying  tide  levels  for  20 
8-16  second  waves. 

3.  Low  tide  refraction  diagram  for  Big  Sur,  California.  24 

4.  High  tide  refraction  diagram  for  Big  Sur,  California.  25 

5.  Low  tide  refraction  diagram  for  Big  Sur,  California.  26 

6.  High  tide  refraction  diagram  for  Big  Sur,  California.  27 

7.  Low  tide  refraction  diagram  for  Eastern  Head,  Maine.  28 

8.  High  tide  refraction  diagram  for  Eastern  Head,  Maine.  29 

9.  Expected  wave  height  reduction  at  breaking  point  due  37 
to  bottom  friction  for  bottom  slope  of  1:10  to  1:400. 


TABLE  OF  SYMBOLS 

A  approach  angle  of  wave  ray 

fi  ray  separation  in  shallow  water  divided  by  ray  separation  in 
deep  water 

C  wave  velocity 

C0  deep  water  wave  velocity 

f  dimensionless  friction  coefficient  for  the  bottom. 

FK  curvature  of  ray 

g  acceleration  due  to  gravity 

H  wave  height  at  position  x 

HQ  deep  water  wave  height 

H^  wave  height  at  position  x]^ 

H/Hq  wave  height  at  position  x  divided  by  deep  water  wave  height 

HHFR  wave  height  at  position  x,  when  bottom  friction  is  included, 
divided  by  deep  water  wave  height 

K|:  wave  height  reduction  factor  due  to  bottom  friction  alone 

K  refraction  factor 

K.c.  combined  friction  and  refraction  factor 
tr 

Ks  direct  shoaling  factor 

L  wave  length 

LQ  deep  water  wave  length 

s  wave  ray 

T  wave  period 

x  distance  measured  along  the  wave  ray  in  the  direction  of 
propogation  of  the  waves 

Ax  x  -  Xl 

^  3.1416... 

Note:  All  values  are  assumed  to  be  in  the  English  System  of  Units. 


1.   Introduction 

Preparing  accurate  wave  refraction  diagrams  is  a  necessary  first 
step  in  many  coastal  engineering  and  amphibious  operations.   The  advent 
of  the  numerical  wave  refraction  programs   |_Griswold  (1963)  ,  Stouppe 
(1966),  Wilson  (1966)  J  has  considerably  reduced  the  time  required  to 
construct  a  wave  refraction  diagram.   The  speed  of  the  computer  opera- 
tions permits  more  parameters  to  be  included  in  the  calculations  and 
improves  the  accuracy  of  the  output.   Of  equal  importance  is  the  fact 
that  numerical  products  provide  a  completely  objective  basis  for  evalua- 
ting the  cumulative  effect  of  various  assumptions  on  wave  refraction. 

The  present  study  has  investigated  the  effects  of  tide-level 
changes  and  bottom  friction  on  wave -re fraction  patterns  for  several 
environments.   The  investigation  first  compared  the  wave  refraction 
programs  of  Griswold  (1963) ,  Stouppe  (1966) ,  and  Wilson  (1966) .   Since 
there  was  no  way  available  to  the  author  to  compare  program  accuracy 
on  an  absolute  scale,  the  comparison  was  based  on  method  of  computation, 
simplicity  of  use,  and  presentation  of  results. 

The  program  written  by  Stouppe  was  considered  to  have  the  most 
potential  and  was  chosen  for  use  in  this  investigation.   The  major 
advantages  of  Stouppe' s  program  are  these: 

(1)  The  program  uses  water  depth  directly  as  the  interpolation 
surface  for  evaluation  of  wave  speed,  thereby  limiting  the 
number  of  computations  and  increasing  the  program  versatility. 

(2)  The  program  uses  a  second-order  non-linear  differential  equation 
to  determine  the  refraction  coefficient  at  each  point  along 

the  ray.   Thus,  the  wave  height  at  each  point  can  be  computed. 


11 


(3)  The  program  uses  constant  time  steps  in  the  computation  rather 
than  constant  distance  steps.   This  reduces  the  distance  be- 
tween computations  as  the  shoreline  is  approached.   Thus  for 
the  same  number  of  computer  operations  a  greater  percentage  of 
computations  are  in  the  shallowest  area  where  refraction, 
friction,  etc.,  are  most  important,  and  are  changing  rapidly. 

(4)  The  program  includes  a  graphical  output  that  plots  the  wave 
orthogonals,  wavecrests  and  the  shoreline. 

The  following  modifications  were  made  to  Stouppe's  program: 

(1)  The  program  was  made  to  recycle,  permitting  more  effective  use 
of  computer  time  when  more  than  one  diagram  is  to  be  constructed, 

(2)  Provision  was  made  to  add  a  constant  value  to  the  depth  field 
to  investigate  tide  level  effects. 

(3)  A  subroutine  was  added  to  account  for  bottom  friction  in  the 
computation  of  wave  height. 


12 


2.    Computer  Program. 
Depth  grid. 

The  first  step  in  the  utilization  of  this  program  is  the  construction 
of  a  grid  of  water-depth  values  for  the  desired  area.   The  grid  must  be 
sufficiently  large  so  that  the  starting  point  of  all  rays  to  be  followed 
is  in  deep  water,  i.e.,  the  ratio  of  water  depth  to  deep  water  wave 
length  (d/L0)  is  greater  than  0.5.   By  convention  the  x-axis  is  positive 
increasing  toward  the  shore  while  the  y-axis  is  positive  to  the  left  of 
the  x-axis.   The  grid  interval  is  selected  so  that  the  bottom  contours 
are  reasonably  parallel  to  one  another  within  a  given  square. 

In  constructing  the  depth  grid  it  is  advantageous  to  record  the 
average  value  of  all  depths  within  that  grid  square,  rather  than  the 
value  of  water  depth  at  the  intersection  point.   This  procedure  tends  to 
correct  for  small  variations  in  the  depth  of  water  within  the  depth  grid 
without  necessitating  the  use  of  a  smaller  grid  size.   All  actual  depths 
are  made  positive;  extrapolated  depth  values  are  continued  on  land  for 
two  grid  units  from  the  shoreline  and  are  made  negative.   Beyond  two 
grid  units  from  the  shoreline  any  arbitrary  negative  depth  may  be  used. 
For  depths  on  the  shoreline  itself  zero  is  used. 

To  reduce  the  time  required  to  obtain  the  depth  grid  a  clear  plastic 
overlay  with  a  black  dot  at  each  grid  intersection  point  was  prepared  by 
initially  locating  the  grid  dots  on  white  paper  and  producing  a  viewfoil 
transparency  with  an  Ozalid  copier,  Model  400. 
Input  data. 

Stouppe's  order  of  data  input  was  modified  to  permit  the  program 
to  recycle.   The  present  data  deck  consists  of  three  sections.   The  first 
section  contains  only  the  value  of  MM  and  NN  which  designate  the  number 
of  points  in  the  depth  grid  in  the  x  and  y  directions  respectively.   The 

13 


second  section  contains  the  water  depth  grid.   These  values  are  arranged 
so  that  the  computer  reads  all  the  y  values  for  each  successive  x-grid 
position.   Water  depths  are  read  in  fathoms  and  are  converted  to  feet 
within  the  computer  program.   The  last  section  contains  one  card  for 
each  set  of  input  parameters  for  which  it  is  required  to  construct  a 
wave  refraction  diagram.   The  input  parameters  include: 

X,Y:     The  grid  position  for  the  starting  point  of  the  first  ray 
(feet) .   All  starting  rays  must  be  more  than  two  grid 
intervals  in  distance  from  the  edge  of  the  depth  grid. 
FCF:     The  coefficient  of  bottom  friction. 

TIDE:    The  tide  level,  in  feet,  above  chart  depth  for  which  com- 
putation is  required.   This  value  is  subtracted  from  the 
depth  grid  after  each  refraction  pattern  is  completed. 
HINT:    The  deep  water  wave  height  (feet) .   This  is  required  for 

the  friction  subroutine. 
T:       The  initial  wave  period  (seconds) . 
Al:      The  initial  wave  angle  (degrees) .   The  smaller  angle 

measured  between  the  positive  Y  direction  and  the  initial 
wave  crest.   The  angle  is  made  negative  if  the  slope  of 
the  wave  crest  is  negative. 
NOR:     The  number  of  rays  to  be  followed. 
TIME:    The  time  interval  between  computations  for  advancing  of 

the  wave  front  (seconds) . 
DIST:    The  distance  between  rays  (feet) . 
GRID:    The  grid  interval  (feet) . 

This  order  of  data  input  permits  wave  refraction  diagrams  to  be 
computed  for  many  combinations  of  input  variables  while  requiring  the 
computer  to  assemble  the  program  and  read  the  depth  field  only  once. 


14 


Computer  output. 

The  output  from  the  computer  consists  of  both  a  printed  output  and 
a  graphical  output.   The  printed  output  variables  are  these: 

X,Y:     The  x  and  y  coordinates  for  a  given  wave  crest  and  ray 

number  (yards) . 
COREFR:   The  coefficient  of  refraction  (Kr)  for  the  wave  at  the 

point  x,y. 
HHO:     The  ratio  of  wave  height  to  deep  water  wave  height 

neglecting  bottom  friction. 
HHFR:    The  ratio  of  wave  height  to  deep  water  wave  height  when 

bottom  friction  is  included. 
NGO:     Indicates  that  the  ray  has  terminated  (1) ,  or  it  is 

continuing  (2)  . 
DEPTH:    The  water  depth  for  grid  position  X  and  Y  (feet) . 
The  graphical  plot  of  wave  crests  is  programmed  for  the  Calcomp 
160  system  utilizing  the  DRAW  subroutine  programmed  by  J.  R.  Ward  for 
the  Fortran  60  system.    See  Appendix  II,  Stouppe  (1966) ,  for  subroutine 
listing.   The  first  and  each  succeeding  third  wave  crest  are  plotted. 
The  zero  water  depth  points  are  used  for  contouring  the  shoreline  on 
the  graph. 

Appendix  2   contains  a  sample  of  the  printed  and  graphical  output 
for  Monterey  Bay,  California. 
Computer  operations. 

Since  the  details  of  the  computer  operations  are  discussed  by 
Stouppe  (1966),  only  the  main  features  will  be  discussed  here.   The 
formulas  used  in  the  computations  are  listed  in  Appendix  3. 


15 


The  water  depth  at  the  first  point  is  computed  by  fitting  the 
closest  nine  grid-point  depths  to  a  quadric  surface  by  the  least-squares 
method.   An  iterative  procedure  is  then  used  to  solve  for  wave  velocity. 
It  is  assumed  here  that  wave  velocity  is  a  function  of  water  depth  and 
period  only. 

The  wave  ray  is  then  moved  to  the  next  point  by  solving  for  the  ray 
curvature  and  projecting  the  ray  forward  a  distance  equal  to  the  product 
of  the  wave  speed  for  the  point  multiplied  by  TIME.   At  this  new  point 
the  value  of  ray  separation  (/£),    coefficient  of  refraction  (K  )  , 
shoaling  factor  (Ks) ,  H/H0,  and  HHFR  are  calculated. 

This  procedure  is  repeated  until  all  orthogonals  have  been  advanced 
one  time  interval.   The  new  wave  crest  is  plotted  and  the  entire  pro- 
cedure is  repeated  until  all  orthogonals  have  either  gone  off  the  grid 
or  reached  the  shoreline. 


16 


3.   The  Effects  of  Tide  Level  Changes  on  Wave  Refraction  Patterns. 
Differences  in  shoaling  factor,  wave  speed,  and  ray  curvature  at  specific 
depths. 

The  effect  on  wave  refraction  of  a  uniform  increase  in  water  depth 
caused  by  tide  level  changes  is  cumulative  and  is  dependent  on  the  bottom 
depth  contours.   Therefore,  to  evaluate  the  effect  properly,  a  wave  ray 
must  be  followed  along  its  entire  distance  from  deep  water  to  the  shore. 
However,  by  calculating  the  value  of  shoaling  factor  (Ks) ,  wave  speed  (C) , 
and  ray  curvature  (FK)  at  both  high  tide  and  low  tide  it  is  possible  to 
evaluate  the  order  of  magnitude  of  the  differences  in  the  basic  parameters 
of  wave  refraction  caused  by  tide  level  fluctuations. 

The  value  of  Ks,  C,  and  FK  were  calculated  initially  for  25,  50, 
and  100  foot  water  depths;  second  calculations  were  made  for  a  water 
depth  equal  to  the  initial  water  depth  plus  a  tide  level  increase  of 
6,  10,  and  16  feet.   To  evaluate  these  differences  on  a  relative  scale 
a  percent  difference  was  calculated  by  using  the  formula: 


7o  difference  X  = 


Xht 


(1) 


where 

X  =  variable  representing  C,  Ks  ,  or  FK 

X^t  =  value  of  X  at  high  tide  water  depth 

X^t  =  value  of  X  at  low  tide  water  depth. 

The  percent  difference  of  Ks  was  generally  small  and  under  certain 
conditions  went  to  zero  (for  those  values  associated  with  the  inflection 
point  in  the  curve  when  Ks  is  plotted  against  water  depth) . 

Figure  1  shows  the  percent  difference  in  wave  speed  corresponding 
to  the  low  tide  water  depth  for  a  specific  tide  range  and  wave  period. 


17 


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It  is  apparent  that  the  difference  is  often  greater  than  10  percent  and 
increases  with  increasing  wave  period,  increasing  tide  range  and  decreasing 
low  tide  water  depth. 

The  values  of  ray  curvature  (FK)  were  determined  using  the  equation: 

FK  --    {■  C^-fi  fjj.    -    /6#*?i£  3  (2) 

where 

A  =  approach  angle 

Q-=~    ,  % —  =  derivative  of  wave  speed  in  the  X  and  Y  directions 
Z4-    ;  ir- 
respectively. 

Figure  2  shows  the  percent  difference  in  FK  versus  tide  range  (computed 

using  equation  (2)  with  the  following  initial  values:   A  =  30°,  — —  =  0, 

2J=i.  =  a  C  for  a  twenty  foot  change  in  water  depth  starting  with  an 

initial  depth  of  100  feet) .   The  values  of  percent  difference  plotted 

are  representative  of  the  percent  difference  for  all  values  of 

A,  r— 7  ,  =»   >  and  water  depth;  this  occurs  because  the  terms  inside 

the  brackets  in  equation  (2)  have  nearly  the  same  value  for  high  tide 

and  low  tide  and  tend  to  cancel  out  in  the  percent  difference  calculation. 

This  reduces  the  percent  difference  calculation  for  FK  to 

C/.7-     ^  H  T 


%  difference  FK  = 


H7 


(3) 


The  fact  that  the  difference  calculation  is  primarily  dependent  on  tide 
range  and  wave  speed  is  clearly  shown  in  Figure  2. 

It  is  concluded  that  the  change  between  high  tide  and  low  tide  in  a 
refraction  pattern  is  primarily  determined  by  the  change  in  ray  curva- 
ture (FK)  . 


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Difference  in  wave  refraction  patterns  for  specific  locations. 

To  investigate  the  combined  effect  of  the  changes  in  C,  Ks  and  FK 
caused  by  a  uniform  increase  in  water  depth,  wave  refraction  diagrams 
were  constructed  for  several  locations  using  both  the  low  tide  water 
depths  and  the  high  tide  water  depths. 

The  first  area  considered  was  the  California  coast  near  Big  Sur, 
between  latitude  36°  14'  30"  and  latitude  36°  17'  42".   This  area  was 
chosen  because  eight-second  waves  arriving  on  the  coast  will  be  refracted 
by  the  offshore  bar  (shown  by  the  shaded  area  in  Figures  3  and  4)  at  low 
tide  but  not  at  high  tide.    Thus  tide  level  changes  will  cause  selective 
refraction  by  the  offshore  bar.   Figure  3  shows  the  refraction  pattern 
for  8  second  waves  approaching  from  270  degrees  at  low  tide;  Figure  4 
shows  a  different  pattern  for  the  same  condition  at  high  tide.-'- 

Figures  3  and  4  show  two  major  differences  in  the  refraction  pattern. 

First,  orthogonals  6  and  7  cross  approximately  halfway  to  shore  at  low 

2 
tide  but  they  do  not  cross  at  high  tide.    Secondly,  at  low  tide  there 

is  a  convergence  of  wave  orthogonals  at  Point  A;  this  convergence  is 

not  present  at  high  tide. 


To  make  the  changes  in  the  orthogonal  pattern  more  prominent 
Figures  3-8  are  plotted  with  an  expanded  ordinate  scale.   Also,  the 
computer  was  not  used  to  contour  the  wave  crests  but  rather  the  wave 
orthogonals  were  contoured  manually;  the  shoreline  was  indicated  by  a 
triangle  plotted  whenever  water  depth  was  zero.   TIME  equalled  30 
seconds  for  all  diagrams. 

o 
Interpretation  of  the  effect  of  crossed  orthogonals  is  beyond  the 

scope  of  this  paper.   In  this  discussion  we  will  only  be  concerned  with 

the  difference  in  ray  paths  between  low  tide  and  high  tide. 


21 


Table  1  shows  the  value  of  the  wave -height  ratio  (H/K0)  computed 
at  four  wave  crests  before  the  shoreline  is  reached  for  specific  points 
along  the  coast.   This  table  clearly  shows  that  the  value  of  wave  height 
can  be  considerably  different  at  low  tide  and  high  tide. 

Figures  5  and  6  represent  the  same  initial  conditions  as  Figures 
3  and  4  except  that  the  initial  wave  direction  is  from  310  degrees. 
The  change  in  the  orthogonal  pattern  is  clear.   It  is  noted  that  in 
Figures  3  and  4  the  primary  change  in  the  orthogonal  pattern  (between 
low  tide  and  high  tide)  is  in  the  vicinity  of  points  B  and  C,  whereas 
in  Figures  5  and  6  the  greater  change  occurs  near  Point  A. 

Wave  refraction  diagrams  were  also  computed  for  the  coast  of  Maine 
between  latitude  44°  39'  35"  and  latitude  44°  44'  45".   This  area  was 
chosen  in  order  to  determine  if  the  combination  of  a  large  tide  range 
(16  feet)  and  deep  water  depths  (greater  than  200  feet  a  short  distance 
from  the  shoreline)  would  cause  a  change  in  the  refraction  pattern. 
Figures  7  and  8  show  the  refraction  patterns  for  16-second  waves  arriving 
from  070  degrees  at  low  tide  and  high  tide.   The  difference  in  refraction 
patterns  is  evident.   Table  3  shows  the  H/H0  ratios  (calculated  at  four 
wave  crests  before  reaching  the  shoreline)  for  specific  locations  at 
low-tide  and  high-tide  conditions. 

In  total,  about  20  sets  of  refraction  patterns  were  analyzed  and 
it  appears  impossible  to  predict  what  changes  in  wave  height  and  re- 
fraction patterns  will  occur  as  the  result  of  tide  level  changes.   The 
only  generalization  that  can  be  made  is  that  the  curvature  of  an  or- 
thogonal is  generally  greater  at  low  tide  than  at  high  tide.   It  is 
concluded  that  precise  water-level  information,  including  tide  state, 
should  be  incorporated  into  wave  refraction  procedures. 


22 


TABLE  I 
H/H0  RATIO  AT  LOW  TIDE  AND  HIGH  TIDE  FOR  SPECIFIC  COASTAL  LOCATIONS 
NEAR  POINT  SUR,  CALIFORNIA. 


LOCATION 

f 

H/I 

lo  RATIO 

(SEE  FIG. 

3) 

LOW  TIDE 

HIGH  TIDE 

A 

1.1 

1.2 

B 

1.3 

.9 

C 

3.1 

1.7 

D 

.8 

.8 

TABLE  II 
H/HQ  RATIO  AT  LOW  TIDE  AND  HIGH  TIDE  FOR  SPECIFIC  COASTAL  LOCATIONS 
NEAR  EASTERN  HEAD,  MAINE. 


LOCATION 
(SEE  FIG. 

7) 

H/HQ 
LOW  TIDE 

RATIO 

HIGH  TIDE 

A 

2.8 

3.3 

B 

1.0 

1.2 

C 

.7 

.8 

D 

.7 

.7 

23 


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29 


4.   Bottom  Friction  Effects  on  Wave  Height. 
Introduction  to  bottom  friction. 

The  present  method  for  calculating  wave  height  assumes  that  the 
propagation  of  energy  between  two  adjacent  orthogonals  is  conserved  as 
the  wave  proceeds  from  deep  water  to  shallow  water.   This  implies  that 
the  addition  of  energy  by  surface  winds,  dissipation  of  energy  by  bottom 
friction  or  internal  friction,  and  the  reflection  of  energy  by  a  steep 
slope  are  absent.   In  nature  this  is  not  the  case  -  the  wave  energy 
between  adjacent  orthogonals  may  be  changed  by  all  of  these  means. 

According  to  Lamb  (1932) ,  in  fluids  of  small  viscosity  (such  as 
sea  water) ,  the  velocity  of  the  wave  and  the  relationship  between  depth, 
length,  and  period  are  unaltered  by  internal  friction.   This  is  based  on 
the  assumption  of  a  sinusoidal  wave  form  but  the  result  appears  to  in- 
dicate a  very  slow  rate  of  damping  of  all  waves  in  deep  water,  which  is 
in  accord  with  the  limited  observations  in  nature  (Putnam  and  Johnson, 
1949)  . 

At  the  sea  bottom,  however,  friction  can  cause  a  loss  of  wave  energy. 
It  can  be  demonstrated  both  theoretically  and  experimentally  that  the 
particle  velocities  of  shallow  water  waves  are  finite  at  the  bottom  and 
actually  approach  the  theoretical  orbital  values  at  a  short  distance  from 
the  bottom.   Therefore,  a  boundary  layer  in  which  mechanical  energy  is 
dissipated  through  the  distortion  of  fluid  elements  must  exist  at  the 
bottom.   The  effective  roughness  of  a  sandy  bottom  probably  is  determined 
by  the  size  of  the  ripples  in  the  sand  rather  than  by  the  size  of  the  sand 
grains.   The  ripple  size,  however,  appears  to  be  determined  by  the  size 
and  sorting  coefficients  of  the  sand  in  addition  to  the  height  and  period 
of  the  wave  and  the  depth  of  water. 


30 


Putnam  and  Johnson  established  the  general  magnitude  for  the  dimen- 
sionless  friction  coefficient  for  the  sea  bottom  to  be  0.01.   (This  value 
was  computed  assuming  initial  conditions  of  12  second  waves,  4  feet  high, 
traveling  over  a  sandy  beach  with  a  ripple  spacing  of  5  inches.)   Putnam 
and  Johnson  point  out  that  since  the  friction  factor  only  enters  the 
equations  for  wave  height  to  the  first  power,  the  friction  factor 
could  change  by  +  50  percent  without  appreciably  changing  the  order  of 
magnitude  of  wave-height  reduction. 

Based  on  the  following  assumptions  Putnam  and  Johnson  were  able  to 
develop  a  procedure  to  calculate  wave  height  when  bottom  friction  is 
included. 

(1)  The  oscillatory  motion  at  the  bottom  is  sinusoidal  and 
corresponds  to  the  wave  theory  based  on  small  amplitudes. 

(2)  The  friction  coefficient  does  not  vary  with  velocity  and 

is  approximately  independent  of  water  depth.  This  assumption 
amounts  to  choosing  an  average  friction  factor  for  the  entire 
region  over  which  the  sea  bottom  affects  the  wave  motion. 

(3)  Perpendicular  flow  at  the  bottom  resulting  from  percolation 
in  the  bottom  material  is  negligibly  small. 

(4)  The  sea  bottom  has  a  constant  upward  slope  from  offshore  to 
the  breaker  point. 

Computing  procedures. 

Bretschneider  and  Reid  (1954)  extended  the  original  work  of 
Putnam  and  Johnson  and  developed  new  equations  to  solve  for  wave 
height  which  included  simplified  equations  for  the  special  cases  of 
constant  water  depth  and  constant  bottom  slope. 


31 


Bottom  friction  is  of  importance  only  on  gently  sloping  beaches 
and  in  shallow  water;  thus  it  is  possible,  when  using  numerical  wave 
refraction  procedures,  to  calculate  the  reduction  to  wave  height  due 
to  bottom  friction  by  making  the  assumption  that  the  water  depth  is 
constant  between  successive  computations  along  the  ray  path  from  deep 
water  to  the  shoreline. 

The  wave  height  at  each  step  is  computed  by  the  equation 

H  =  H,  [  I"  {('-KfWi-K^)-*-  ••  +  0-K4  )}]      (4) 

where 

Hi  =  the  calculated  wave  height,  neglecting  bottom  friction,  for 

the  point; 

Kf  =  the  refraction  factor  between  point  n-1  and  n. 
■"■n 

The  coefficient  of  friction  (Kf)  is  calculated  by  the  equation  (from 
Bretschneider  and  Reid) 

h  -  ~W*         7   ''  (5) 


ft'  = 


f  H, 


9  L 

K   =   direct  shoaling  factor; 
s 

A  ^  =   incremented  distance. 
Kf  is  computed  at  each  ray  point  with  .Ax  equal  to  the  distance 
along  the  wave  ray  between  point  n  and  n  +  1.   It  is  assumed  in  the 
computations  that  the  water  depth  between  point  n  and  n  +  1  is  constant 
and  equal  to  the  depth  at  point  n. 


32 


Results  of  bottom  friction  computations. 

The  accuracy  of  the  approximation  that  water  depth  is  constant  can 
be  seen  by  a  comparison  of  wave  height  obtained  by  this  procedure  to 
the  wave  height  obtained  by  the  more  sophisticated  and  accurate  pro- 
cedure used  by  Putnam  and  Johnson.   This  comparison  is  shown  in  Table  3 
(computed  for  wave  period  =  12  seconds,  bottom  slope  =  5  feet).   The 
comparison  is  very  favorable  along  the  entire  distance  of  travel  from 
the  point  that  the  wave  first  feels  bottom  to  the  breaking  point.   The 
difference  is  certainly  within  the  order  of  magnitude  of  the  error  in- 
troduced by  other  assumptions.   The  difference  in  values  is  caused  by 
the  approximation  to  constant  depth  steps  in  the  calculating  procedure. 

Since  this  program  uses  constant  time  steps  in  moving  each  ray  point 
toward  the  shoreline,  the  horizontal  distance  over  which  depth  is  assumed 
constant  can  be  reduced  by  shortening  the  computing  time  interval  (TIME). 
Table  4  shows  the  reduction  (in  percent)  of  wave  height  at  the  breaking 
point  for  different  computing  time  intervals  (with  wave  and  bottom  con- 
ditions the  same  as  shown  for  Table  3  above).   As  expected,  there  is  a 
slight  increase  in  wave  height  reduction  as  the  computing  interval  is 
decreased.   It  can  be  concluded  that  the  value  of  TIME  will  affect  the 
wave  heights  calculated  by  this  procedure,  but  the  effect  is  small. 

Realizing  the  limitations  imposed  by  the  initial  assumptions  of 
Putnam  and  Johnson  and  the  calculating  procedure  employed  here,  the 
computer  program  was  used  to  compute  the  wave  height  (with  bottom  friction 
included)  for  varying  initial  periods  and  bottom  slopes.   The  results  are 
shown  in  Table  5.   (In  arriving  at  these  results  it  was  assumed  that  the 
initial  wave  height  was  5  feet  and  the  friction  coefficient  was  0.01.) 
The  reduction  in  wave  height  (in  terms  of  percent  of  the  wave  height 


33 


TABLE  III 
WAVE  HEIGHT  REDUCTION  DUE  TO  BOTTOM  FRICTION  AS  DETERMINED  BY  PUTNAM 
AND  JOHNSON  AND  BY  THE  NUMERICAL  WAVE  REFRACTION  PROGRAM. 

T  =  12  sec.       HQ  =  5  FT.       f  =  .01        TIME  =  30  sec. 

Bottom  slope  =  1:300  Breaking  depth  =  11.5  Ft. 


DISTANCE  FROM 
WHERE  h  =  Lo/2 
TO  BREAKING  POINT 

PCT 

0.0 
50.0 
62.0 
70.3 
80.5 
86.8 
90.8 
93.0 
95.0 
97.1 
100.0 


PERCENT  REDUCTION  WAVE  HEIGHT 


FARRELL 
CONSTANT  DEPTH  STEPS 

PCT 

0.0 

0.0 

0.2 

0.4 

1.0 

1.9 

3.1 

4.2 

6.0 

8.7 

18.5 


PUTNAM  &  JOHNSON 
CONSTANT  SLOPE 

PCT 

0.0 

0.0 

0.2 

0.4 

1.1 

2.1 

3.2 

4.5 

6.2 

9.3 

20.8   • 


!'] 


34 


TABLE  IV 
PERCENT  REDUCTION  IN  WAVE  HEIGHT  FOR  VARIOUS  VALUES  OF  TIME 
TIME  (SEC)  WAVE  HT.  REDUCTION  (%) 

20  19.0 

30  18.5 

40  18.0 

50  17.0 


TABLE  V 
WAVE  HEIGHT  REDUCTION  FOR  BOTTOM  SLOPES  OF  1:100  to  1:400  AND  WAVE 
PERIODS  OF  8  to  16  SECONDS   (PERCENT) 


WAVE 

■■ 

BOTTOM 

SLOPE 

PERIOD 

1:100 

1:200 

1:300 

1:400 

8 

5.4 

14.0 

21.5 

28.6 

10 

5.2 

13.5 

20.2 

27.0 

12 

5.2 

13.0 

18.5 

24.8 

16 

5.0 

12.2 

18.2 

24.2 

AVERAGE 

5.2 

13.2 

19.6 

26.9 

35 


without  friction)  is  shown  for  the  theoretical  breaking  depth  (from 
H.O.  234).   To  obtain  the  percent  reduction  at  the  specific  breaking 
depth,  it  was  necessary  to  fit  a  smooth  curve  to  the  plotted  points  of 
wave  height  reduction  at  the  three  closest  water  depths  and  interpolate 
the  wave  height  reduction  at  the  breaking  point. 

Figure  9  shows  the  average  reduction  (for  all  periods  from  Table  5) 
of  wave  height  versus  bottom  slope.   The  curve  is  extended  by  a  dashed 
line  to  the  reduction  amount  found  by  Putnam  and  Johnson  for  a  1:10 
beach  slope. 

The  quantitative  value  of  Figure  9  is  controlled  by  the  input 
accuracy  of  the  coefficient  of  friction,  the  initial  assumptions  and 
the  computation  procedure.   However,  Figure  9  does  show,  qualitatively, 
the  effect  of  bottom  slope  on  wave  height  reduction  due  to  bottom 
friction.   Figure  9  is  considered  sufficiently  accurate  to  be  used  in 
surf  forecasting  on  sandy  beaches  to  provide  a  first  approximation  of 
wave  height  reduction  due  to  bottom  friction. 


36 


Figure  9.  EXPECTED  WAVE  HEIGHT  REDUCTION  AT  BREAKING 
POINT  DUE  TO  BOTTOM  FRICTION  FOR  BOTTOM  SLOPES  OF 
1:10  to  1:400. 


B 

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CM 


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5.    Conclusions. 

The  numerical  approach  to  wave  refraction  is  a  powerful  tool  in 
that  it  eliminates  human  subjectivity  and  permits  the  refraction  com- 
putations to  account  for  more  factors  than  is  possible  with  hand  drawn 
techniques. 

A  computer  program  that  uses  constant  time  intervals  between  com- 
putations has  more  suitability  in  accounting  for  the  effects  of  friction, 
wind,  reflection,  etc.,  than  a  computer  program  that  employs  constant 
distance  steps. 

Tide  level  changes  can  have  a  significant  effect  on  wave  refraction. 
This  is  especially  true  in  areas  where  there  is  a  large  tide  range  or 
an  offshore  bar  that  can  cause  selective  refraction. 

The  changes  shown  by  the  tide  level  effects  also  point  to  the  im- 
portance of  having  an  accurate  water  depth  grid.   To  avoid  significant 
errors  in  the  refraction  pattern  a  great  deal  of  care  must  be  exercised 
in  the  preparation  of  the  depth  grid. 

Bottom  friction  can  and  does  have  an  effect  on  the  wave  height. 
The  numerical  refraction  program  provides  a  convenient  way  to  account 
for  this  reduction. 


38 


6.   Recommendations. 

The  course  of  this  investigation  has  permitted  a  close  look  at  wave 
refraction  from  many  points  of  view.   The  numerical  refraction  program 
is  capable  of  yielding  wave  refraction  information  with  great  speed  and 
accuracy.   (Computer  time  is  approximately  5  minutes  for  a  20  ray  diagram.) 
However,  before  the  advantages  of  the  computer  product  can  be  fully 
realized  the  author  believes  further  investigations  and  improvements  are 
needed  in  the  areas  of  input  data,  computing  procedures  and  field  in- 
vestigations . 

The  need  for  accurate  depth  information  is  essential  to  the  compu- 
tation of  accurate  refraction  patterns.   It  is  anticipated  that  the  present 
efforts  of  the  Naval  Oceanographic  Office  and  the  Coast  and  Geodetic  Survey 
in  the  area  of  color  photography  will  improve  the  water  depth  information 
especially  in  areas  where  the  bottom  contours  change  considerably  and 
in  the  shallow  areas  where  it  is  difficult  for  hydrographic  vessels  to 
proceed. 

The  computer  program  can  be  expanded  to  account  for  more  variables 
and  to  provide  additional  output  information',  in  particular: 

(1)  The  program  should  account  for  the  fact  that  in  nature  there 
usually  exists  a  spectrum  of  wave  periods  and  directions, 
rather  than  the  single  period  and  direction  that  is  considered 
here. 

(2)  For  amphibious  operations  it  would  be  advantageous  if  the 
program  determined  the  breaking  depth  of  the  waves,  printed  out 
the  height  of  the  waves  at  the  breaking  point,  and  then  contoured 
the  breaking  point  on  the  output  refraction  diagram. 


39 


(3)  Another  desirable  output  for  amphibious  operations  is  a  computer 
plot  on  the  output  diagram  of  the  area  where  the  wave  height  is 
a  minimum,  as  this  would  be  an  ideal  area  to  anchor  large  ships. 

(4)  The  various  subroutines  should  be  checked  to  ensure  that  each 
section  is  providing  comparable  accuracy. 

Field  work  is  necessary  to  determine  the  value  of  the  bottom  friction 
factor  for  various  type  bottoms.   This  is  essential  before  accurate  wave 
height  information  can  be  obtained.   Field  investigations  are  also  needed 
to  determine  the  accuracy  of  the  computer  program;  until  now  the  numerical 
wave  refraction  procedures  have  been  checked  only  by  comparison  with  hand 
drawn  results. 


. 


40 


BIBLIOGRAPHY 

1.  Breakers  and  surf,  principles  in  forecasting.   U.  S.  Naval 
Hydrographic  Office,  Pub.  234,  1944. 

2.  Bretschneider,  C.  L.  and  Reid,  R.  0.,  Modification  of  wave 
height  due  to  bottom  friction,  percolation,  and  refraction. 
Beach  Erosion  Board,  Tech.  Mem.  45,  1954. 

3.  Griswold,  G.  M. ,  Numerical  calculation  of  wave  refraction. 
Journal  of  Geophysical  Research,  v.  68,  1963  :  1715-1723. 

4.  Griswold,  G.  M. ,  and  Nagle,  F.  W. ,  Wave  refraction  by  numerical 
methods.  Mimeo  Rept.,  U.  S.  Navy  Weather  Research  Facility,  1962. 

5.  Lamb,  H. ,  Hydrodynamics,  6th  Ed.  Cambridge  University  Press,  1932. 

6.  Putnam,  J.  A.  and  Johnson,  J.  W. ,  The  dissipation  of  wave  energy 

by  bottom  friction.   Transactions  of  the  American  Geophysical  Union, 
v.  30,  1949  :  67-73. 

7.  Stouppe,  D.  E. ,  Ocean  wave  crest  and  ray  refraction  in  shoaling 
water  by  computer.   Master's  Thesis,  Department  of  Meteorology 
and  Oceanography,  United  States  Naval  Postgraduate  School,  1966. 

8.  Wilson,  W.  S.,  A  method  for  calculating  and  plotting  surface  wave 
rays.   U.  S.  Army  Coastal  Engineering  Research  Center,  Tech. 
Mem.  17,  1966. 

9.  Wiegel,  R.  L. ,  Oceanographic  Engineering.   Prentice  Hall,  1964. 


41 


APPENDIX  1 

Computer  Program  for  Wave  Refraction  using  Fortran  63 

on  the  C.D.C.  1604  Computer 

Subroutine  Title:   FRICT1 

Variables  of  Subroutine: 

HHQ.... Height  of  wave  at  point  X,  Y  after  bottom  friction 

has  been  included. 

RLO Deep  water  wave  length. 

RLQ Wave  length  at  point  X,  Y. 

*   CFF Friction  factor  between  point  n  and  n+1. 

RCFF (1   -  Kf) 

TRCFF Total  of  (1-Kf)  terms  to  point  n. 

TCFF. Total  friction  factor  to  point  n. 

Summary  of  Subroutine: 

The  subroutine  calculates  the  value  of  Kf  and  wave  height  reduced 
by  bottom  friction  (HHFR)  for  each  point  along  wave  ray. 


See  Stouppe  (1966)  for  discussion  of  remainder  of  program, 


42 


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APPENDIX  2 

Sample  Computer  Input  and  Output 

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SAMPLE  COMPUTER  OUTPUT 


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806 


K-SCALE   -    1.00E+04  UNITS-  IMOi. 
1  -SCALE  -    1.00E  +  Q4  LKTVINCH. 

f-PRELL     WAUE  REFRACTION  PROGRAM     MONTER  EY   BAY 
TIDE  .LUL       0         ANGLE  =         0         PERIOD  =      18 


APPENDIX  3 
SUMMARY  OF  EQUATIONS 


Wave  Speed    (C) 


zir  K     tc    / 


Ray  Curvature  (FK) 


FK  :  £[>W?|§--^A|^|   . 

Coefficient  of  Refraction  (Kr) 

The  value  of  ray  separation  (p   )  is  calculated  by  solving  the 
second  order,  non-linear  differential  equation: 

where 

p-   -«•**   t&    -  «*~  ft   t   If 

The  above  equation  is  solved  by  the  finite  difference  method.   This 
results  in  an  equation  for  the  Beta  value  at  the  n+1  point  in  terms 
of  the  Beta  values  at  the  two  previous  points.   The  equation  to  be 
solved  is  then: 

^    "  Z+PP 

where 

D  is  the  incremented  distance 
p,q  are  as  defined  above 
&   I      /» 2   are  tne  Beta  values  of  the  two  previous  points.   The 
The  coefficient  of  refraction  is  calculated  by  the  relation: 


59 


Direct  Shoaling  Coefficient  (K£) : 

Hs-  3.zstf  -  ,z,  8\5o(%-)  +  Z  8.  8M  ( -^y  -?r,usi(0 


Wave  Height  Reduction  Factor  Due  to  Bottom  Friction  (Kf) : 

I 


where 


«r  = 


f  H. 


0f  3$*      l/^h 


Z1fC* 


60 


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Security  Classification 


DOCUMENT  CONTROL  DATA  -  R&D 

(Security  claaaltlcatlon  ot  tltta,  body  ot  abatract  and  Indexing  annotation  muat  ba  entered  whan  tha  orarall  report  la  claaaitted) 


1.  ORIGINATING  ACTIVITY  (Corporate  author) 

Naval  Postgraduate  School 
Monterey,  California 


2a.    REPORT  SECURITY    CLASSIFICATION 

UNCLASSIFIED 


2b.    GROUP 


3.  REPORT  TITLE 

TIDE-LEVEL  AND   BOTTOM-FRICTION  EFFECTS   ON  WAVE   REFRACTION  AS   DETERMINED   BY 
NUMERICAL  WAVE   REFRACTION  PROCEDURES 


4.   DESCRIPTIVE  NOTES  (Type  ot  report  and  Inctualva  dmtaa) 

Thesis  


5    AUTHORS  (Laet  nana,  tint  name,  Initial) 


FARRELL,    Charles  Augustus,    Jr, 


«.  REPORT  DATE 

June   1967 


7«     TOTAL  NO.   OF    PASES 

62 


7b.  NO.  OP  PEPS 


•  «.  CONTRACT  OR  GRANT  NO. 


b.    PROJECT  NO. 


9«.    ORIOINATOR'S  REPORT  NUMBERfSj 


d. 


oJLJJlJUJL 


»s.  OTHER  REPORT  NOf5J  (A ny  other  numbere  that  may  be  aaaltnad 
thla  report) 


fen 


10.  AVAILABILITY/LIMITATION  NOTICES 


"— ™I"""L ■■  j    »        "'  ■  »j--  '■'    t    -----   rrr— 


11.  SUPPLEMENTARY  NOTES 


12.  SPONSORING  MILITARY  ACTIVITY 

Naval  Postgraduate  School 
Monterey,  California 


19.  ABSTRACT 

Numerical  wave  refraction  programs  permit  a  detailed  study  of  the  trans- 
formation of  wave  energy  as  waves  move  from  deep  water  to  shallow  water.   By 
eliminating  the  subjectivity  that  is  present  with  hand  drawn  diagrams  the  effect 
of  small  variations  in  the  initial  assumptions  and  wave  conditions  can  be  in- 
vestigated.  The  effects  on  wave  refraction  of  tide  level  changes  and  bottom 
friction  are  investigated  here.   It  is  demonstrated  that  a  uniform  increase  in 
water  level  as  would  be  caused  by  tidal  fluctuations  can  cause  a  significant 
change  in  the  wave  refraction  pattern  for  a  given  nearshore  region.  A  computing 
procedure  is  developed  to  permit  numerical  refraction  programs  to  account  for 
bottom  friction.   The  reduction  in  wave  height  caused  by  bottom  friction  depends 
primarily  on  bottom  slope;  this  relation  is  shown  in  tabular  and  graphical  form. 


DD 


FORM 

1  JAN  84 


1473 


65 


UNCLASSIFIED 


Security  Classification 


UNCLASSIFIED 


Security  Classification 


key    wo  RDS 


Wave  Refraction 
Numerical  Analysis 
Bottom  Friction 
Tide  level  Changes 


DD  ,F°1\.1473  «"«> 


5/N     0101-807-6821 


1 


66 


UNCLASSIFIED 


Security  Classification 


A- 3 1 409 


thesF2293 

Tide-level  and  bottom-friction  effects  o 


3  2768  002  13380  3 

DUDLEY  KNOX  LIBRARY 


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